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THE 
 
 ENGLISH GARDENER; 
 
 OR, 
 
 \ A TREATISE 
 
 On the Situation, Soil, Enclosing and Laying-Out of Kitchen Gardens; 
 on the Making and Managing of Hot-Beds and Green-Houses ; and 
 on the Propagation and Cultivation of all sorts 'of Kitchen-Garden 
 Plants, and of Fruit-Trees whether of the Garden or the Orchard. 
 
 And also 
 
 On the Formation of Shrubberies and Flower-Gardens ; and on the 
 Propagation and Cultivation of the several sorts of Shrubs and 
 Flowers ; concluding with 
 
 A Kalendar, 
 
 Giving Instructions relative to the Sowings, Plantings, Prunings, and 
 other labours, to be performed in the Gardens, in each Month of 
 the Year. 
 
 BY WIIiUAM COBBETT. 
 
 " I weiit by the field of the slothful, and by the vineyard of the man void 
 of understanding : and, lo! itAvasall grown over with thorns, and nettles 
 covered the face thereof, and the stone-wall thereof was broken down. 
 Then I saw and considered it well : I looked upon it, and received in- 
 struction."— Proverbs : Chap. XXIV. Ver. 30. 
 
 PRINTED BY B. BENSLEY, AMyQVER, 
 AMD 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR, 183, FLEET STREET, LONDON 
 
 AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. 
 
 1829. 
 
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CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 On the arrangement of the divers matters contained in the sub- 
 sequent Chapters, and on the method which ought to be pursued in 
 the Studying of these matters. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 On the Situation, Form and Extent, Enclosing, and Laying-out, 
 of Kitchen-gardens. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 On the making and managing of Hot-beds and Green-houses. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 On Propagation and Cultivation in general. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Kitchen-garden Plants, arranged in Alphabetical order, with 
 Directions relative to the Propagation and Cultivation of each sort. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Fruits. — Propagation, Planting, and Training and Pruning, 
 whether wall-trees, espaliers, or standards, with an Alphabetical 
 List of the several Fruits, and with observations on tl>e Diseases 
 of Fruit-trees. 
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 The formation of Shrubberies, with a List of Shrubs, and in- 
 structions as to the Propagation and Cultivation of each sort; 
 the formation of Flower-gardens, with a List of Flowers, and 
 directions for the Propagation and Cultivation of each sort : a List 
 of Shrubs and Flowers, classed according to their proper uses, or, 
 situations, in the Shrubbery or Flower-garden. Annexed is a 
 S.alendar of the principal sowings, and other work, to be done in 
 ach month of the year ; and an Index. 
 
THE 
 
 ENGLISH GARDENER. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 On the arrangement of the divers matters contained in the 
 subsequent Chapters, and on the method which ought to he 
 pursued in the studying of those matters. 
 
 1. Before we begin to study the contents of any book j 
 that is to say, before we begin to endeavour to obtain a 
 thorough knowledge of those contents, we ought, if 
 possible, to get a clear and neat view of the outline of 
 those contents, and of the purposes to which they are 
 intended to become applicable. To insist, as some authors 
 have done, on the utility of a knowledge of the means to 
 obtain garden-plants, fruits, and flowers, would be use- 
 less. It is notorious that it is useful to have these things ; 
 and, therefore, all that we have to do, is, to obtain a 
 knowledge of the means of obtaining them in the greatest 
 perfection, and with the least proportionate quantity of 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF MATTERS ChAP. 
 
 expense or trouble ; and also, with the least risk of ex- 
 periencing a disappointment of our hopes. 
 
 2. There must be, of necessity, numerous divisions of 
 the matter, where subjects so numerous are to be treated 
 of : and it is of great advantage to take a view of these 
 several divisions before we enter upon the treatise. And, 
 therefore, in this chapter, I shall endeavour to give the 
 reader this view j so that he will see, not only what he 
 is going to read about ; but also the order in which the 
 matter is intended to be brought before him. The 
 SECOND Chapter of the work will describe that which I 
 deem to be the proper Situation of a garden j next, it 
 will treat of the Soil, its nature, its preparation, and the 
 general mode of manuring it, and of making provision of 
 manure : next, of the Form of the Kitchen-Garden, and 
 abo of the extent necessary under different circum- 
 stances : next, of the manner of Enclosing the Garden, 
 and of the Walls and other Fences apphcable to the pur- 
 pose. The Situation having been fixed on, the Soil pre- 
 pared, the Form determined on, and the enclosures made, 
 the next thing that will be presented to the reader will be 
 the manner of laying out the ground within the enclosure, 
 whether into plats, borders, or otherwise. 
 
 3. The THIRD Chapter will form a sort of Episode, 
 disconnected with the general course of the work. It 
 will treat of the managing of Hot-beds and Green* 
 houses J that is to say, it will treat of the management 
 of things which are to be produced by artificial heat ; 
 and that are cultivated by rules exclusively adapted to 
 this species of gardening. I shall not treat of Hot- 
 
I. IX THE WOBK. 
 
 houses, the management of those being a science of itself, 
 having nothing to do with gardening in general, and of 
 use to comparatively very few persons. My object will be 
 to make a book of general utility j to do this, moderate 
 bulk and moderate price are requisites j and, to have 
 these, the management of hot-houses must be necessarily 
 excluded. 
 
 4. The FOURTH Chapter will treat of Propagation and 
 Cultivation in general. First, of the sort of the seed, and 
 of the methods of procuring true seed, and of ascertain- 
 ing whether it be sound : next, of the manner of harvest- 
 ing and of preserving seeds ; next, of the manner of 
 sowing seeds : next, of transplanting plants : next, of the 
 after cultivation, until the plant be fit for the uses for 
 which it is intended. 
 
 5. After these general observations on propagation and 
 cultivation, there will follow, in Chapter V. a complete 
 list, in alphabetical order, of all kitchen-garden plants, 
 including pot-herbs, with particular instructions relative 
 to each plant j so that, these instructions, together with 
 the reader's previous knowledge respecting propagation 
 and cultivation in general, will leave nothing that will be 
 unknown to him with regard to the kitchen-garden plants 
 and pot-herbs. 
 
 6. Next, in Chapter VI. will come the important sub- 
 ject of Fruits. This Chapter will treat of the manner of 
 propagating, rearing up, planting, pruning, and culti- 
 vating fruit-trees ; whether wall-trees, espaliers, or 
 standards, and whether for the garden or the orchard j 
 
 B 2 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF MATTERS ChaP. 
 
 also of those plants of inferior size which bring us goose- 
 berries, currants, raspberries, and strawberries. After 
 the instructions which will be given under these heads, 
 and which will include observations on the diseases of 
 fruit trees, and on the manner of curing those diseases, 
 and of protecting the trees against the depredations of 
 birds, vermin, and insects, will come an alphabetical list 
 of fruits, noticing, under each name, any thing peculiar 
 and necessary to be known, respecting the management 
 of the tree or plant. 
 
 7. The SEVENTH, and last Chapter, will treat of the for- 
 mation of Shrubberies and Flower-gardens ; will point 
 out the proper shrubs suited to the several possible situa- 
 tions, and the several Flowers desirable to have as ornar 
 ments, together with the manner of placing them in the 
 shrubberies or flower-gardens. Under the head of Shrub- 
 beries, there will be an alphabetical list of shrubs, with 
 instructions against each relative to its propagation, prun- 
 ing, and cultivation. The same will follow in the case of 
 Flower-gardens j so that, here also, with the general inr 
 structions taken into view, the reader will possess all the 
 information necessary relative to these matters. 
 
 8. Having thus obtained a knowledge with respect to 
 what is to be done relative to every plant and tree 
 known in the gardens, the work will conclude with the 
 Kalendar, described in the title-page j a very convenient 
 thing, even for gardeners themselves j and much more 
 convenient for those whose pursuits in life necessarily 
 render it impossible that the garden should be an object 
 of their constant attention. Something depends upon the 
 
I. IN THE WORK. 
 
 situation, and also upon the nature of the ground : for, 
 in some ground, you may safely sow a fortnight earlier ; 
 and, in other ground, a fortnight Inter, than the fit season 
 for sowing in the general run of ground. Nevertheless, 
 this Kalendar is of great use in all cases j because, with- 
 out it, many pieces of necessary work would be wholly 
 omitted. The performance of them would be put off to 
 a season so late, that to perform them would be of no 
 use at alL 
 
 9. In the writing of this book, 1 shall proceed upon 
 the principle, or, rather, the admitted assumption, that 
 the reader is wholly unacquainted with all the matters of 
 which it will treat. On the same principle I have pro- 
 ceeded, in my three grammars -, in my Cottage Economy j 
 in my Woodlands ; and in every work in which I have 
 attempted to teach any thing. Experience has taught me 
 the necessity of proceeding in this way; for, when I 
 have had to apply to books to be my teachers, I have in- 
 variably found that the authors proceed upon the notion 
 that the reader only wanted a little teaching -, that he un- 
 derstood a great part of the subject, and only wanted in- 
 formation relative to that part which the author hajjpened 
 to think of the greatest importance. By looking on the 
 reader as knowing nothing at all about the matter, the 
 author is led to tell all that he knows. This can do 
 gardeners, and gentlemen who haVe studied something of 
 gardening, no harm ; while it must be good, and even 
 necessary, to those who have never had an opportunity of 
 paying close attention to the matter. I m.ake no apology 
 for the minuteness with which I shall give my instruc- 
 tions j for my business is to teach that which I know ; 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF MATTERS ChAPv 
 
 the book recommended him to do ; for, a part omitted, 
 may, and frequently does, render all that is done of no 
 use. Mr. Tull very justly complained that those who con- 
 demned his scheme (and it is curious that Voltaire was 
 one of these), and asserted that they had tried it and found 
 it to fail j always omitted some one thing, which omission 
 rendered the other operations abortive. Mr. Tull said, 
 '* Their great error is in the mis-use of the word IT : 
 " they say they have tried IT : they have tried something, 
 " to be sure j but they have not tried my scheme." 
 Voltaire, in one of his letters (I forget to whom), says, 
 as nearly as I can recollect the words, " J' ai essay^le 
 " fameux syst^me de Monsieur Tull de 1' Angletferre, et, 
 " je vous avoue que je le trouve abominable." * He goes 
 on, however, to show most satisfactorily, that it was not 
 the system of Mr. Tull that he had tried ; for he says, 
 '' Les intervalles, ou les espaces entre les sillons, furent, 
 *' d^s le mois de Mai, remplis de mauvaises herbes, qui 
 '' ont bientot etouff^ le ble." f So that, he had tried it 
 after the manner of those whom Mr. Tull had com- 
 plained of in England j that is to say, he had made the 
 ridges, sowed the rows of wheat, all in very exact pro- 
 portions as to distance and every thing else j but he had 
 not ploughed or horse-hoed the intervals j whereas that 
 operation was the very soul of the system. 
 
 12. Thus it is with but too^many persons, who com- 
 plain of having failed, though, as they allege, they have 
 
 * I have tried the famous system of Mr. Tull of England, and I 
 confess to you that I find it to be abominable. 
 
 t The intervals, or the spaces, between the ridges, were, from the 
 month of May, full of weeds, which quickly smothered the ^heat. 
 
I. IN THE WORlt. 
 
 pursued the instructions given them. They do not pur- 
 sue those instructions except in part ; therefore, I beg 
 leave to caution the reader against falling into this error -, 
 a caution particularly necessary to those who leave the 
 performance to others : it is useless to see a part done, 
 if you neglect to see the other parts done : with this 
 caution, as necessary as any that I can possibly give, I 
 conclude this introductory chapter. 
 
^tTUATlOU, SOIL, ChA*. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 On the SiiuaUon, Soil, Form and Extent, Enclosing, and 
 Laying-out, of Kitchen- Gardens. 
 
 SITUATION. 
 
 13. If one could have what one wished, in point of 
 situation, from the wall on the north side of the garden, 
 after it little flat of about a rod wide, one would have a 
 gentle slope towards the south, about thirty feet in width. 
 The remainder of the ground, to the wall on the south 
 side of the garden, one would have on a true level. The 
 gentle slope contributes to early production 3 and though 
 it is attended with the inconvenience of washing, from 
 heavy rains, that inconvenience is much more than made 
 up for by the advantage attending the circumstance of 
 earliness. I recollect the ancient kitchen-garden, which 
 had been that of the monks, at Waverley Abbey. It lay 
 full to the south, of course ; it had a high hill to the 
 back of it, and that hill covered with pretty lofty trees. 
 The wall, on this north side of the garden, was from 
 twelve to fourteen feet high, built partly of flints, and 
 partly of the sand stone, which is found in abundance in 
 the neighbourhood, and it was about three feet through, 
 even at the top. The ground of which the garden con- 
 sisted had been the sloping foot of a hill, taking in a 
 part of the meadow that came after the hill, and lay 
 between it and the river Wey. A flat of about twenty 
 
11. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 feet wide had been made on the side of the hill, and, at 
 the back of this flat, the wall was erected. After the 
 flat, towards the south, began the slope j at the end of the 
 slope began the level ground, which grew more and more 
 moist as it approached the river. At the foot of the 
 garden, there ran a rivulet, coming from a fish-pond, and 
 at a Httle distance from that, emptying itself into the 
 river. The hill itself was a bed of sand ; therefore, the 
 flat, at the back of which the north wall stood ; that is 
 to say, the wall on the north side of the garden j this 
 flat must have been made ground. The slope must have 
 been partly made, otherwise it would have been too 
 sandy. 
 
 14. This was the finest situation for a kitchen-garden 
 that I ever saw. It was wholly torn to pieces about fifty 
 years ago ; the wall pulled down j the garden made into 
 a sort of lawn, and the lower part of it, when 1 saw the 
 spot about three years ago, a coarse, rushey meadow, all 
 the drains which formerly took away the oozings from 
 the hill, having been choaked up or broken up ; and that 
 spot, where the earliest birds used to sing, and where 
 prodigious quantities of the finest fruits used to be 
 borne, was become just as sterile, and as ill-looking a 
 piece of ground, short of a mere common or neglected 
 field, as I ever set my eyes on. That very spot where I had 
 seen bushels of haut-boy strawberries, such as I have 
 never seen from that day to this ; that very spot, the 
 precise locality of which, it took me (so disfigured was 
 the place !) the better part of an hour to ascertain, was 
 actually part of a sort of swampy meadow, producing 
 ;sedgy grass and rushes. ThiS most secluded and beau- 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChaP. 
 
 tiful spot Was given away by the ruthless tyrant, Henry 
 the Eighth, to one of the basest and greediest of his 
 cormorant courtiers. Sir William Fitzwilliams ; it 
 became afterwards, according to Grose, the property of 
 the family of Orby Hunter ; from that family it passed 
 into the hands of a Sir Robert Rich, much about fifty 
 years ago. The monastery had been founded by Giffard, 
 Bishog of Winchester, who brought to inhabit it the 
 first community of Cistercian monlis that were settled in 
 England. He endowed the convent at his own expense j 
 gave it the manor and estate, and gave it also the great 
 tythes of the parish of Farnham, in which it lies. A 
 lofty sand-hill sheltered it to the north j others, in the 
 form of a crescent sheltered it to the east. It was well 
 sheltered to the west j open only to the south, and a 
 little to the south-west. A valley let in the river Wey at 
 one end of this secluded spot, and let it out at the other 
 end. Close under the high hill on the north side, a good 
 mansion-house had been built by the proprietors who 
 succeeded the monks ; and these proprietors, though they 
 had embellished the place with serpentine walks and 
 shrubberies, had had the good taste to leave the ancient 
 gardens, the grange, and as much of the old walls of the 
 convent as was standing -, and, upon the whole, it was 
 one of the most beautiful and interesting spots in the 
 world. Sir Robert Rich tore every thing to atoms, 
 except the remaining walls of the convent itself. He 
 even removed the high hill at the back of the valley -, 
 actually carried it away in carts and wheel-barrow^s -, 
 built up a new-fashioned mansion-house with grey bricks^ 
 made the place look as bare as possible ; and, in defiance 
 
H» EVCLOSINO, LAYING OUT. 
 
 of nature, and of all the hoar of antiquity, made it very 
 little better than the vulgar box of a cockney. 
 
 15. I must be excused for breaking out into these 
 complaints. It was the spot v^^here I first began to learn 
 to work, or, rather, where I first began to eat fine fruit, 
 in a garden ; and, though I have now seen and observed 
 upon as many fine gardens as any man in England, J have 
 never seen a garden equal to that of Waverley. Ten 
 families, large as they might be, including troops of 
 servants (who are no churls in this way), could not have 
 consumed the fruit produced in that garden. The 
 peaches, nectarines, apricots, fine plums, never failed j 
 and, if the workmen had not lent a hand, a fourth part of 
 the produce never could have been got rid of. Sir 
 Robert Rich built another kitchen- garden, and did not 
 spare expense ; but he stuck the walls up in a field, un- 
 sheltered by hills and trees j and though it was twice the 
 size of the monks' garden, I dare say it has never yielded 
 a tenth part of the produce. 
 
 16. It is not every where that spots like this are to be 
 found ; and we must take the best that we can get, never 
 forgetting, however, that it is most miserable taste to 
 seek to poke away the kitchen-garden, in order to get it 
 out of sight. If well managed, nothing is more beautiful 
 than the kitchen-garden : the earliest blossoms come there : 
 we shall in vain seek for flowering shrubs in March, and 
 early in April, to equal the peaches, nectarines, apricots, 
 and plums; late in April, we shall find nothing to 
 equal the pear and the cherry ; and, in May, the dwarf, or 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 espalier, apple-trees, are just so many immense garlands 
 of carnations. The walks are unshaded : they are not 
 greasy or covered with moss, in the spring of the year, 
 like those in the shrubberies : to watch the progress of 
 the crops is by no means unentertaining to any rational 
 creature ; and the kitchen-garden gives you all this long 
 before the ornamental part of the garden affords you any 
 thing worth looking at. Therefore, I see no reason for 
 placing the kitchen -garden in some out-of-the-way place, 
 at a distance from the mansion-house, as if it were a mere 
 necessary evil, and unworthy of being viewed by the 
 owner. In the time of fruiting, where shall we find any 
 thing much more beautiful to behold than a tree loaded 
 with cherries, peaches, or apricots, but particularly the 
 two latter ? It is curious enough, that people decorate 
 their chimney-pieces with imitations of these beautiful 
 fruits, while they seem to think nothing at all of the 
 originals hanging upon the tree, with all the elegant ac- 
 companiments of flourishing branches, buds, and leaves. 
 
 17. We must take, as I said before, the best ground 
 that we have ; and, for my part, I would take it almost 
 any where, except in the front of a mansion-house. It 
 must absolutely be open to the south : well-sheltered, if 
 it can be, from the north and from the east ; but open to 
 the south it must be, or you can have neither fine wall- 
 fruit, nor early crops of garden-plants. If you can have 
 the slope, such as I have described it to have been at 
 Waverley, it is easy to make a flat before the face of the 
 wall, on the north side of the garden : but, to have the 
 whole of a garden upon a slope is by no means desirable ; 
 for, however gentle the slope may be, the water will run 
 
^BP. ENCLOSING; LAYING OUT. 
 
 ^Hpff j and, in certain cases, it is absolutely necessary that 
 ^Kthe water should not run away; but have time to soak 
 r gently into the ground. I have had great opportunity of 
 acquiring knowledge in this respect. Part of my ground 
 at Kensington forms a very gentle slope. The soil of 
 this slope is as good, both at top and bottom, as any 
 ground in the world ; but I have always perceived, that 
 seeds never rise there with the same alacrity and the 
 same vigour that they do upon the level part, though 
 there the soil is much inferior. This is particularly the 
 case with regard to strawberries, which will grow, blow 
 like a garland, and even bear pretty numerously, on the 
 side of a bank where scarcely any moisture can lodge j 
 but which I have never seen produce large and fine fruit 
 except upon the level. The same may be said of almost 
 every garden plant and tree ; and, therefore, if I could 
 avoid it, I would always have some part of a garden not 
 upon the slope. Slopes are excellent for early broccoli, 
 early cabbages, winter spinage, onions to stand the 
 winter, artichokes to come early, early peas, early beans, 
 and various other things j but there ought to be some 
 part of the garden upon a true level ; for, when the 
 month of June comes, that is the part of the garden 
 which will be flourishing. 
 
 18. As to shelter, hills, buildings, lofty trees, all serve 
 for the purpose ; but the lofty trees ought not to stand 
 too near. They ought not to shade by any means j and 
 none of their leaves ought to drop into the garden 
 Leaves from such trees, blown into the garden by high 
 winds, are merely a temporary inconvenience j but shade 
 would do injury, though, perhaps, if not too deep, coun- 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 terbalanced by the warmth and the^ shelter that the trees 
 would afford. 
 
 19. Before I quit this subject of Situation^ I cannot 
 refrain from attempting to describe one kitchen-garden 
 in England, to behold which is well worth the trouble 
 and expense of a long journey, to any person who has a 
 taste in this way : I mean that of Mr. Henry Drummond, 
 at Aldbury, in the county of Surrey. This garden is, in my 
 opinion, nearly perfection, as far as relates to situation, 
 and form. It is an oblong square ; the wall, on the north 
 side, is close under a hill j that hill is crowned with trees 
 which do not shade the garden. There is a flat, or 
 terrace, in the front of this wall. This terrace consists, 
 first of a border for 'the fruit trees to grow in, next of a 
 broad and beautiful gravel walk, then, if I recollect 
 rightly, of a strip of short grass. About the middle of the 
 length, there is a large basin supplied with water from a 
 spring coming out of the hill, and always kept full. The 
 terrace is supported, on the south side of it, by a wall 
 that rises no higher than the top of the earth of the 
 terrace. Then comes another flat, running all the way 
 along ; this flat is a broad walk, shaded completely by 
 two rows of yew trees, the boughs of which form an 
 arch over it : so that, here, in this kitchen-garden, there 
 are walks for summer as well as for winter : on the 
 gravel walk you are in the sun, sheltered from every 
 wind J and, in the yew-tree walk, you are completely 
 shaded from the sun in the hottest day in summer. From 
 the yew-tree walk the ground slopes gently down 
 towards the brook which runs from Sheer through Ald- 
 bury, down to Chilworth j where, after supplyhig the 
 
ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 I 
 
 ^B;paper-mill8 and p6wder-mills, it falls into the river Wey, 
 ^The two end walls of the garden have plantations of 
 trees at the back of them ; so that, except that here is 
 no ground, except the terrace, which is not upon the 
 slope, this garden, which is said to have been laid out by 
 , Sir Philip Evelyn for some member of the family of 
 Howard, is every thing that one could wish. The 
 mansion-house stands at a little distance opposite the 
 garden, on the other side of the brook -, and, though all 
 the grounds round about are very pretty, this kitchen- 
 garden constitutes the great beauty of the place. Here, 
 too, though Evelyn might have revived, this charming 
 spot was chosen, the garden was made, and the cloyster 
 of yew-trees planted, by the monks of the Priory of 
 St. Austin, founded here in the reign of Richard I., and 
 the estates of which Priory were given by the^ bloody 
 tyrant to Sir Anthony Brown. 
 
 SOIL. 
 
 20. The plants and trees which grow in a garden, 
 prefer, like most others, the best soil that is to be found j 
 and the best is, good fat loam at the top, with a bottom 
 that suffers the wet gently to escape. But, we must take 
 that which we happen to have, avoiding, if we possibly 
 can, a stiff clay or a gravel, not only as a top-soil, but as 
 a bottom-soil also, unless at a very great distance. Oak 
 trees love clay, and the finest of that sort of timber grows 
 oh such land ; but, no trees that grow in a garden love 
 clay, and they are still less fond ef gravel, which always 
 burns in summer time, and which sucks up the manure, 
 and carries it away out of the reach of the roots of the 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 plants. Chalk, if it be too near to the top, is not good ; 
 but it is better than clay or gravel 3 and by the means of 
 trenching, of which I shall presently speak, chalky soil 
 may make a very good garden ,- for chalk never burns in 
 summer, and is never wet in winter ; that is to say, it 
 never causes stagnant water. It absorbs it, and retains it, 
 until drawn upwards by the summer sun. And hence it is 
 that the chalky downs are fresh and green, while even the 
 meadows in the valleys are burned up so as to be perfectly 
 brown. No tree rejects chalk ; chalk is not apt to pro- 
 duce canker in trees ; and, upon the whole, it is not a 
 bad soil even for a garden, while, if it have a tolerable 
 depth of earth on the top of it, it is, taking all things 
 together, the pasturage, the sound roads, the easy culti- 
 vation in all weathers, the healthiness which it invariably 
 gives to cattle of all sorts, the very best land in the 
 world for a farm j and I, who have, perhaps, seen as 
 many farms and home-steds as any man in England, and 
 in as many different situations, never saw such fine, such 
 beautiful, such generally productive, such neat and really 
 rich farms, as in countries consisting entirely of chalk, 
 excepting the mere bottoms of the valleys along which 
 run the brooks and the rivers, and here, too, are the 
 finest of all the watered meadows that I ever saw. 
 
 21. I am by no means, therefore, afraid of chalk, 
 especially as houses are seldom built, and kitchen-gar- 
 dens seldom wanted on chalk hills. In chalky countries, 
 kitchen-gardens are generally wanted on the sides of such 
 hills, where there is generally considerable depth of soil 
 above the chalk j in which case there can seldom be 
 better soil for a kitchen-garden, if the proper preparations 
 
fll. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 be made j and of those preparations I am now about to 
 speak. 
 
 22. Having fixed upon the spot for the garden, the next 
 thing is to prepare the ground. I shall suppose it to be 
 part of a field, or of a coppice : in the former case, there 
 must be ploughing and harrowing to destroy the roots 
 of all weeds most effectually : in the latter, complete 
 grubbing, so as to leave no roots of timber-trees or un- 
 derwood in the ground ; and then must come an opera- 
 tion absolutely indispensible to the making of a good 
 garden j that is to say, trenching to the depth of two 
 feet at the leasts and, as asparagus, and some other things, 
 send their roots down to a much greater depth than two 
 feet, the whole ought to be trenched to the depth of 
 three feet, with a spit of digging at the bottom of each 
 trench, which would move the ground to the depth of 
 three feet nine inches, or thereabouts. 
 
 23. According to the common manner of trenching, 
 the top-soil would be turned down to the bottom of the 
 trench, and the bottom soil brought up to the top 5 so 
 that, yoa have at the top, if the land be chalky, a bed of 
 sheer chalk 3 if clayey, a bed of clay, and so on 3 and, in 
 the very best of land, you bring up to the top, matter 
 which has never seen the sun, and which, in spite of 
 every thing that you can do in the way of tillage as well 
 as in the way of manure, will require many years before 
 it will become ground fit to bear crops in the manner 
 that it ought to bear them. I have taken away, some- 
 times, a bank which separated two fields : I have dug, 
 manured, and done every thing in my power to enrich 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 the land on vvliidi the bank stood j but have never, in 
 any instance, been able to make it, even at the end of 
 several years, equal to the land adjoining it. The truth 
 is, this ground had been so long out of the reach of the 
 influence of the elements, the sun, the frosts, the snows, 
 the air, the rains and the dews, that it was not fit for 
 performing that which earth will not perform without the 
 assistance of these elements. 
 
 24. Therefore, in the work of trenching, the top soil 
 must be kept at the top. This is to be done with the 
 greatest facility imaginable, and with comparatively very 
 little additional expense. Having, in The Woodlands, 
 given full directions for the performing of this work, I 
 have here little more to do than to repeat that which I 
 have said there, accompanying my instructions with an 
 explanatory plate. This I may lawfully do, it being only 
 purloining from myself 3 this method never having been 
 pointed out by any other writer on the subject, as far as I 
 have observed j nor have I perceived that even the thought 
 ever entered the mind of any other man. Yet the reader 
 will perceive, that, without pursuing this method, it would 
 be impossible to make a good garden in some kinds of soil. 
 
 25. The piece of ground that I propose to be made 
 into a garden, will be, from outside to outside, ter\ rods 
 wide and fifteen rods long. This piece of ground ought 
 to be marked into strips, or lifts, each a rod wide, in the 
 manner described in the opposite page. This division 
 into narrow strips takes place, because the earth which 
 comes out of the first trench must go to fill up the last 
 trench 3 and, therefore, in this case, there would be 
 
II. 
 
 EXCLrOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 B 
 
 D 
 
 H 
 
 M 
 
 O 
 
 N 
 
 R 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChA*. 
 
 pretty nearly a hundred cart-loads of earth to be carted, 
 or wheeled, from one end of the piece to the other : 
 whereas, by proceeding in the way of strips, you fill up 
 the trench with hardly any wheeling at all. The ground 
 being laid out in strips, you begin at a, and take oflF all 
 the top earth of a cross strip two feet wide ; and you 
 wheel that earth to the end of the further strip at S. The 
 little cross strip a is marked out by straining a line 
 across the great strip, and making a chop with the spade. 
 When you have taken away the top earth of a, mark out 
 the cross strip b, and wheel away its top earth also to the 
 same place as before, laying this top earth altogether in 
 one round snug heap, just without the limits of the 
 ground at S. You have now got the top earth away 
 from the two first trenches a and b. You next take out 
 the bottom earth of the trench a, down to the depth of 
 three feet, and you wheel that away and put it into a 
 round and snug heap, distinct from the other heap, at the 
 end of the further strip at S. You have now the trench 
 a quite empty down to three feet deep : you then move 
 the earth with a spade, or other tool, to the depth of 
 nine inches at the bottom of the trench a .-^then you take 
 the bottom earth of the trench b, and keep putting it 
 into the trench a, until you have gone to the depth of 
 three feet ; then you dig or move the earth nine inches 
 deep again at the bottom of the trench b : then you take 
 the top earth from the trench c, and lay it upon the top 
 of the trench a. The trench b remains empty all this time, 
 and you have to toss the top earth of c across the trench 
 b in order to place it upon the top of the trench a. The 
 trench a is now finished : it has got the top earth of c 
 on its top, and all its contents have been completely 
 
ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 m 
 
 ^■boved to the depth of three feet nine inches. You next 
 ^^ake the bottom earth of c and turn it into the trench b ; 
 and when you have moved or dug the bottom of c in the 
 same manner as you did that of a and b, you take the top 
 earth of the trench d and put it upon the top of the trench 
 b: and thus you go on till you arrive at A. When you 
 arrive at A, you will find yourself with an empty trench 
 at the end, and with a trench with no top earth upon it 
 next to that at the end. You, therefore, now begin the 
 second strip at C : you take the top earth of the first two 
 feet wide and put it upon top of the trench next to the 
 end one of the last strip : you then take the bottom earth 
 of the first two feet wide in this second strip and put it 
 into the bottom of your last trench at A ; you then take 
 the top earth of the second trench at C and put it on 
 the last trench at A. Thus the whole of the first strip 
 is completed ; and you have again, as you had at a and b, 
 an empty trench at the end, and the trench next to it with 
 the top earth taken off. You then proceed with the rest 
 of this strip as you did with that of the other, until you 
 come to B, when you turn in at D, and do just the same 
 as you did at C. You then go on to E, when you get 
 there you turn in again at G, and thus you proceed till you 
 come to S, when you will find yourself with the last trench 
 completely empty, and with the next to the last wanting 
 the top earth. These are both ready for you. You take 
 the heap of bottom earth, which came out of a, and put 
 it into your empty trench ; then you take the heap of 
 top earth, which was wheeled from a and 6, and lay it on 
 upon the two last trenches j and thus all the ground 
 will have been completely moved to three feet nine inches 
 deep, every part of it will have changed its place 3 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ClIAP. 
 
 and you will find it to stand a foot or fifteen inches higher 
 than the ground in the neighbourhood of it. Great care 
 should be taken to lay the strips out by straight lines. 
 The best way is to divide each end of the piece into rods 
 by sticking up sticks -, and then to mark out the lines from 
 one end of the piece to the other. If only very common 
 care be taken, it is next to impossible not to have straight 
 lines. Equal care should be taken that the trenches them- 
 selves be of equal width, and that the lines which mark them 
 out be true and parallel j but this is so easy a matter, 
 a matter that it would be a shame, indeed, for any one to 
 pretend difficulty in the performance of it. 
 
 26. I have now to speak on the subject of manures as 
 adapted to a garden. Different plants require different 
 sorts of manure, and different quantities. It is certainly 
 true that dung is not the best sort of manure for a gar- 
 den : it may be mixed with other matter, and, if very well 
 rotted, and almost in an earthy state, it may not be amiss 9 
 but, if otherwise used, it certainly makes the garden ve- 
 getables coarse and gross compared to what they are 
 when raised with the aid of ashes, lime, chalk, rags, salt, 
 and composts. Besides, dung creates innumerable weeds : 
 it brings the seeds of the weeds along with it into the 
 garden, unless it have first been worked in a hot-bed, 
 the heat of which destroys the vegetative <juality of the 
 seeds. 
 
 27. A great deal more is done by the fermentation of 
 manures than people generally imagipe : the shovellings of 
 grass and turf from the sides of roads ; weeds or roots of 
 weeds raked ofiF from a field 5 these laid in a great heap and 
 
II. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 f 
 
 turned frequently during the year, having ashes (of wood) 
 limej rags, salt in a small proportion, mixed with the rest 
 of the heap, make excellent manure. Provision of ma- 
 nure like this ought to be made, one heap being always 
 ready to succeed another. As to salt, however, which is 
 now so easy to be obtained, and which is, perhaps, the 
 cheapest manure of all, care must be taken that the pro- 
 portion of it be not too great. About thirty bushels, 
 perhaps, would be enough for the whole extent of the gar- 
 den at one time j and the best way would be, at the outset, 
 to put this thirty bushels into a heap of stuff consisting 
 of about a hundred cart-loads, mix the whole well toge- 
 ther by turning it several times, and manure the ground 
 all over before the planting or sowing is begun. After- 
 wards new heaps would be formed, and the same pro- 
 portion of salt might be used. Any other general mar 
 nuring might not be wanted : the hot-beds would pro- 
 duce a great deal; and even with this hot-bed dung, 
 some salt might be mixed j not, however, with a view 
 >of destroying worms, as some people imagine it to 
 do ; for it will destroy worms only when it is used in 
 sufficient quantities to destroy plants, which it will do 
 most effectually and most speedily, if, in its unmixed 
 state, it come at their roots. I shall, hereafter, have to 
 speak about manuring for different plants : and having 
 made these general observations on the subject, I now 
 proceed to speak of the form and extent of the garden. 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChaP. 
 
 FORM AND EXTENT OF THE GARDEN. 
 
 28. It is desirable to have as much wall facing the 
 south as you possibly can have, without incurring incon- 
 veniences which would attend a long narrow slip. At 
 least, it is desirable to have a good portion of wall facing 
 in that direction. If the garden be already formed, you 
 must keep what you have got j but if you have to choose, 
 it ought to be more extensive from east to west than from 
 north to south : an oblong square is the proper form ; 
 and it very conveniently happens that the proportions 
 ought to be much about those of one of the sides of this 
 book, when neatly bound and lying upon the table, 
 which is five in length, and three in breadth ; that is to 
 say, a piece of ground to resemble it in form, would con- 
 tain five feet in length for every three feet in breadth. 
 1 am about to recommend a garden to be walled in, in 
 the first place, and then surrounded with a hedge. The 
 dimensions within the walls I recommend to be (casting 
 away a trifling fraction) two hundred and fifteen feet 
 long, and one hundred and thirty-two feet wide ; that is 
 to say, thirteen rods long, at sixteen feet and a half to the 
 rod, and eight rods wide, the area being one hundred and 
 four square rods j sixteen rods short of three quarters of 
 an acre. 
 
 29. The walls (of the construction of which I shall 
 speak presently) would be half thrown away in point of 
 horticultural utility, unless there were a piece of garden 
 ground all round them on the outside, and that piece of 
 garden ground protected by an effectual fence. Of this 
 
II. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 fence, I shall also presently speak j but, to conclude the 
 subject of dimensions, the piece of ground between the 
 wall and the outer fence, ought to be a clear rod wide, 
 which would add forty- two rods of ground to the hun- 
 dred and four enclosed within the walls, making, in the 
 whole, of garden ground, a hundred and fifty-six square 
 rods, being fourteen square rods short of a statute acre. 
 I know that some noblemen and gentlemen find twice or 
 three times this quantity of land insufficient for supplying 
 their houses, though in each house there is but one family ; 
 but, if these noblemen and gentlemen were first to tak-e 
 a look, at any time of the year, at a market garden in the 
 parish of Fulham, and then go immediately and take a 
 look over their own gardens -, they would clearly perceive 
 the cause of the insufficiency of their own. In the former, 
 they would see that there was not a single square yard of 
 ground tenanted by weeds, cabbage-stumps, or plants of 
 lettuce, and other things, suffered to stand and go use- 
 lessly to seed -, and, in the latter, they would find all 
 these in great abundance, and large spaces of ground left, 
 apparently as if of no use at all. The quantity of kitchen 
 vegetables which a hundred and forty-six rods of ground 
 is capable of producing in the course of a year, would 
 astonish any man not accustomed to observe and to cal- 
 culate upon the subject. Many a gardener, with a 
 smaller quantity of land, sends a hundred cart-loads of 
 produce to the market in the course of a year, exclusive 
 of plums, cherries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, 
 and strawberries. To speak of cabbages, for instance, 
 a square rod of ground will contain about a hundred ; 
 and when are a hundred cabbages to be eaten in almost 
 any femily ^ Six square rods of winter spinage are more 
 c2 
 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, CHAf. 
 
 than sufficient to afford a constant supply for even the 
 largest of families. Peas and beans require room ; but 
 they are not long upon the ground, and other crops are 
 coming on between them. In short, long experience and 
 observation has convinced me that a large garden is of 
 very little use ; and that, while it requires a great deal 
 more labaur than a small one to keep it in any thing like 
 good order, it is never made to produce so much. The 
 manure has to be scattered over a larger space j the idle 
 ground is by no means idle in producing mischief : the 
 weeds that are suffered to remain on it produce and 
 nourish and breed up innumerable families of snails and 
 slugs, wood-lice, grubs, and all those things which de- 
 stroy crops. The weeds, when dug in, generate these 
 mischievous vermin, and furnish them with food at the 
 same time. The grass that is turned in breeds the wire- 
 worm ', so that, the idle ground not only does no good, 
 but produces a great deal of mischief, while the extent of 
 the garden is really a valid pretence for the employment 
 of a great number of hands. 
 
 ENCLOSING. 
 
 30. Under this head we are first to speak of the walls, 
 which ought to be twelve feet high, two feet thick to the 
 surface of the ground, and nine inches from the ground 
 to the top, with a jam coming out six inches from the 
 wall on the outside j and these jams ought not to be 
 more than eight or ten feet apart. This would give a 
 wall quite smooth in the inside of the garden ; and, on 
 
II. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 the outside, there would be space for a good large wall- 
 tree between every two jams. The top, or coping, of the 
 wall, ought to consist of semicircular bricks, which 
 should be put on in the firmest and best manner, and the 
 joints well grouted or cemented. When I come to speak 
 of the manner of preserving the blossoms and young 
 fruit of wall trees from the effects of frost and other se- 
 vere weather, I shall have to say something more about 
 the construction of a particular part of the wall.: at present 
 it will be sufficient to add, that it ought to be made of 
 good, solid, smoothly-finished and well-burned bricks j 
 that the mortar ought to be of the best j that the joints 
 ought to be uniform in size and well filled with mortar : 
 and that the wall ought to be erected, not later than the 
 month of June, in order for it to become thoroughly dry 
 in every part before the arrival of frost. In making the 
 foundation, great care must be takemto go lower down 
 than the depth of the trenching, in order to come at the 
 solid and immoveable earth. 
 
 31. As was observed before, the use of one half of 
 this wall, for horticultural purposes, would be lost, unless 
 wall-trees could be placed on both sides of it ; and wall- 
 trees cannot be placed on the outside, with any chance of 
 utility, unless there be an effectual fence to protect the 
 trees on that wall. I knew an old gentleman, one of whose 
 garden walls separated the garden from a meadow, which 
 was unprotected except by a common hedge. Those 
 persons of the village who were fond of wall-fruit, who 
 had none of their own, and who were young enough to 
 climb walls, used to leave him a very undue proportion 
 of his fruit, and that not of the best quality. He, there-- 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, CHAf* 
 
 fore, separated a strip of the meadow from the rest by a 
 little fence, very convenient for getting over -, turned 
 this strip, which lay along against the wall, into kitchen-^ 
 garden ground, planted excellent fruit-trees against the 
 wall, trained them and cultivated them properly j and 
 thus, by furnishing his juvenile neighbours with oniond 
 for their bread and cheese, as well as fruit for their des- 
 sert, ever after he kept the produce of the inside of 
 the garden for himself, generally observing (as he once 
 particularly did to me) that he was not so unreasonable 
 as to expect to have any of the produce of the exterior 
 garden. 
 
 32. But there is no necessity for making these sort of 
 diversions, if you can, with the greatest ease imaginable, 
 effectually protect the fortress against every species of 
 attack. This protection is to be obtained by a hedge 
 made of hawthorn, black thorn; or, still better, with 
 honey locust, the thorns of the latter being just so many 
 needles of about an inch and a half, or two inches long, 
 only stouter than a needle and less brittle. The space 
 between the wall and the hedge ought to be a clear rod, 
 allowing, besides, three feet for the hedge. This hedge 
 ought to be planted in the following manner. The plants 
 being first sown in beds, and then put into a nursery, 
 ought to be taken thence when their stems are about the 
 thickness of the point of your fore-finger. They ought 
 to be as equal as possible in point of size ; because, if one 
 be weaker than the rest, they subdue it ; there comes 
 a low place in the hedge; that low place becomes a gap ; 
 and a hedge with a gap in it, is, in fact, no fence at all, 
 any more than a wall with an open door in it is a pro- 
 
II. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 
 tection to a house. Having 'got the plants ready ; or, 
 her, before they be taken up out of the ground, you 
 repare the place to receive them. You make a ditch 
 six feet wide, at the top, and two and a half wide at the 
 ttom. I suppose the ground to be trenched to the 
 width of eighteen feet from the wall. You take all the 
 good earth from the top of the place that is to be the 
 ditch, and lay it upon the trenched ground to the extent 
 of two feet wide, which will make a very good and deep 
 bed of earth for the plants which are to form the hedge 
 to grow in. Then the ditch ought to be dug out to the 
 depth of three feet, and shovelled out very clean and 
 smooth at the bottom. This bottom earth of the ditch 
 must be carried away j for it would not do to throw it up 
 into the border. If it be convenient, the slope of the 
 bank ought to be covered with turf, well beaten on, and 
 in the autumn; because, if put on in the spring, the 
 grass would be likely to die. If not convenient to get 
 turf, this slope ought to be thickly sown with grass seeds 
 from a hay-loft ; and, in both cases, this slope of the 
 bank ought to be hung very regularly with dead bushes, 
 fastened to the bank by little pegs. This bank and ditch 
 alone, if the bushes were well hung and fastened on, 
 would be no bad protection : few boys, or young fellows, 
 would venture, particularly by night, to take a jump over 
 a ditch of six feet, with about two feet of elevation on 
 the bank 3 but the hedge, in addition to this ditch and 
 bank, renders the storming literally impossible, except 
 with the assistance of facines and scaling ladders, which 
 are munitions that the besiegers of gardens are very 
 seldom provided with. To return now to the planting 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 of the hedge, I entirely disapprove of great numbers of 
 plants employed for this purpose. If the plants stand too 
 close to each other, they never can be strong : they never 
 get stout stems : the hedge is weak at bottom ; and the 
 hedge can never be what it would be if fewer and 
 stronger plants were put in. The time of planting is any 
 where between September and April. The plants, when 
 taken up, should have all the fibres taken from their roots 
 with a sharp knife, and their main roots shortened to the 
 length of about six inches j then they should be planted 
 with great care, the earth put in very finely about the 
 roots, and, every plant fastened well in the ground by the 
 foot. The earth should be then made smooth after the 
 treading, and the plants immediately cut down to within 
 a foot of the ground. The distance that the plants 
 should stand from each other ought to be about fifteen 
 inches, and the row of plants ought to stand at about a 
 foot from the edge of the bank. The plants should be 
 kept perfectly clear from weeds all the summer, which is 
 very easily effected by two or three hoeings. If plants 
 be plentiful, and you desire to have an extraordinarily 
 thick hedge, put in two rows of plants, one row eighteen 
 inches from the other, and the plants of one row placed 
 opposite the middle of the intervals in the other row. The 
 plants will make long and strong shoots the first sum- 
 mer. The next spring cut them down to within an inch 
 of the ground. Go over them in June, when they will 
 have made considerable shoots, and cut off all the shoots 
 close, to the stem, except the two strongest of each plant. 
 Let them go on through another year, and these two 
 shoots will then be about five feet high. Then, in winter, 
 take one of the shoots of each plant, and plash it close to 
 
II. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 the bottom ; that is to say, bend it down longwise the 
 hedge, and give it a cut on the upper side about two 
 
 tehes from the stem -, cut off the top of it so as to 4eave 
 e remainder a foot lorig; bend it down to the ground, 
 making it lie as close as possible to the stems of the 
 neighbouring plant, and fasten it to the ground with two 
 pegs. When you have done this all the way along, there 
 will be one plash for every interval between the stems of 
 the plants. When this is done, cut down the upright 
 shoots, which you have not plashed down, to within four 
 inches of the bottom ; or, rather, to within an inch or so 
 of that part of the stem out of which the plashed shoot 
 issues. The next October, that is to say, at the end of 
 the fourth summer, you will have a complete, efficient, 
 and beautiful fence. This fence will want topping and 
 clipping, in order to keep it of uniform height, and 
 smooth on the sides. You may let it go to what height 
 you please ; but, in order to have a hedge thick at the 
 bottom, you must trim the hedge in such a way as for 
 the outsides of the bottom of it not to be dripped by the 
 upper parts of the hedge. This is a very important 
 matter j for, if the bottom of the hedge be hollow, holes 
 are easily made in it, and it soon becomes no fence at all, 
 
 33. If the hedge be made of honey locusts, two rows 
 of plants are better than one, the distances being th« 
 same as before-mentioned. These do not do so well for 
 plashing as the hawthorn or black thorn j but they send 
 out numerous side-shoots, and these very strong. These 
 locusts should not be cut down till the end of the autumn 
 after planting ; or they may be cut down the next spring, 
 and close to the ground. Each will then send up three 
 
SITUATION SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 or four stout shoots. When these have grown through the 
 summer, take out any little weak shoots, close to the 
 stem, and cut down the stout ones within three or four 
 inches of the ground. Out of these stems will come such 
 quantities of shoots, that the fence will be complete in a 
 very short time, and will only want trimming and clip- 
 ping. The whole of the space between the twQ rows 
 will be filled up by the side shoots j and the hedge will 
 be quite impassible by any animal bigger, at any rate, 
 than a rat or a cat j and, besides all the rest, the foliage 
 is so very fine, that even as an ornament, it would be de- 
 sirable to have it as a hedge. 
 
 34. With regard to the height of this hedge, it might 
 be six or seven feet : but not higher 3 for, if too high, it 
 would keep the sun from part of the wall on the south 
 side of the garden. If higher, it would give more shelter, 
 indeed ; but then this benefit would be over-balanced by 
 the injury done in the way of shade. By the means of a 
 hedge of this sort, you not only secure the use of the 
 outsides of your walls 3 but you obtain security for the 
 produce of the inside. For gardeners may scold as long 
 and as vehemently as they please, and law-makers may 
 enact as long as they please, mankind will never look 
 upon taking fruit in an orchard, or a garden, as felony, 
 nor even as a serious trespass. Besides, there are such 
 things as boys, and every considerate man will recollect, 
 that he himself was once a boy. So that, if you have a 
 mind to have for your own exclusive use what you grow 
 in your garden, you must do one of two things j resort 
 to terrors and punishments, that will make you detested 
 by your neighbours, or provide an insurmountable fence. 
 
II. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 This prevents temptation^ in all cases dangerous, and par- 
 ticularly in that of forbidden fruit. Resolve, therefore, 
 to share the produce of your garden with the boys of the 
 whole neighbourhood -, or, to keep it for your own use 
 by a fence that they cannot get through, over, or under. 
 Six feet is no great height j but in the way oi fence, four 
 feet of good thorn-hedge will keep the boldest boy from 
 trees loaded with fine ripe peaches ; and, if it will do 
 thxit, nothing further need be said in its praise ! The 
 height is nothing j but, unless the assailant have wings, 
 he must be content with feasting his eyes 3 for, if he at- 
 tempt to climh, he receives the penalty upon the spot j 
 and he retreats as the fox did from the grapes, only with 
 pain of body in addition to that of a disappointed long- 
 ing. I really (recollecting former times) feel some re- 
 morse in thus plotting against the poor fellows 3 but the 
 worst of it is, they will not be content with fair play : 
 they will have the earliest in the season, and the best, as 
 long as the season lasts j and, therefore, I must, however 
 reluctantly, shut them out altogether. 
 
 35. By the time that the wall-trees begin to produce 
 any thing of a crop, the hedge will become an effectual 
 fence : the latter will go on providing protection as the 
 trees go on in making provision for fruit. The ditch and 
 the bank should be attended to during this time. If the 
 earth moulder down, it should be put up again : any 
 holes or washings that appear in the bank should be 
 regularly stopped, and the earth carefully replaced every 
 autumn : the prunings and clippings should be regularly 
 and carefully performed, once every winter, and once 
 every summer, about the middle of the month of July. 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, CHAPr 
 
 This summer clipping must be earlier or later, according 
 to the season, or to the climate : but it should take place 
 just before the starting of the Midsummer shoot. All trees 
 shoot twice in the year : the shoot that comes out in the 
 spring ends about Midsummer, and then begins another 
 shoot that comes out of the end of it^ which is about 
 one third and sometimes about one half, smaller than the 
 spring shoot, and the pruning or clipping should take 
 place just before this new shoot comes out : this opera- 
 tion cduse« many new and small shoots to come forth, 
 and gives the hedge a very beautiful appearance ; and 
 also makes it much thicker than it otherwise would be. 
 The seed of the black thorn is a little sloe, and iK)t easily 
 to be obtained in any quantity : its leaf is not so beauti* 
 ful as that of the hawthorn ; but its wood is stronger, 
 an(i its thorns a great deal more formidable. A holly 
 hedge only requires more patience ; and we should re- 
 collect that it is evergeen * and as effectual, in a fence, as 
 either of our thorns -, for its leaves are so full of sharp 
 prickles, that no boy will face a holly hedge of any de- 
 gree of thickness. To have such a hedge, you must 
 gather the berries in autumn, keep them in damp sand for 
 a year ; then sow them in November, and, when they 
 come up in the spring, keep the bed carefully weeded, 
 not only then, but all through the summer ; let them 
 stand in this bed another summer 5 then transplant them 
 in rows in a nursery of rich ground 3 there let them stand 
 for two or three years j then plant them for the hedge at 
 the same distances, and in the same manner, as directed 
 for the honey locusts j then, when they have stood a 
 year thus, cut them down nearly close to the ground, 
 which will bring three or four shoots out of each plant > 
 
II. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 and, with a little top{>ing and side-pruning, carefully per- 
 formed, they will, in about five years after being planted, 
 form a very beautiful and effectual fence. Neither of the 
 thorns is raised much more quickly j and certainly there 
 is no comparison for such a purpose between an ever- 
 green and a deciduous tree. And, there is this further 
 advantage with regard to the holly, that it will flourish in 
 any soil, from the dryest and most arid bank, to the 
 wettest and sourest clay j and as to duration, as a plant, 
 nothing but the yew-tree equals the holly. 
 
 LAYING-OUT. 
 
 35. Having now given instructions relative to the 
 Situation, the Soil, Form, and Extent, and the Enclosing 
 of the garden, there remains to speak, in this Chapter, 
 only of the laying of it out into plats, borders, paths, 
 and walks. A judicious distribution of the ground is a 
 great matter -, for, if any part of it be awkward to get at, 
 great additional labour is occasioned j and, if there be 
 not the proper quantity of paths and walks, there must 
 be great trampling of the ground, and very great incon- 
 veniences of various sorts. The outer garden, that is to 
 say, the garden between the hedge and the wall, will not 
 require much attention in the making of paths : the 
 whole of it will be land pretty constantly under cultiva- 
 tion, to within about four or five feet of the wall ; and a 
 path there, that is to say, at that distance from the wall, 
 trodden out upoh the common ground, and just sufficient 
 to pass along for the purpose of managing the trees 
 which are against the wall, will be sufficient. 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 36. But, with regard to the garden itself, where the 
 width is considerable, great care must be taken that 
 every part of the ground can be come at without incon- 
 venience ', that there be borders sufficiently wide for the 
 roots of the wall-trees to extend themselves in ; and that 
 the several plats of ground be easily come at for the 
 purpose of manuring, and for all other purposes. I sub- 
 join a plan, which I deem the most proper for a garden 
 of the extent that I have recommended. I shall first 
 give the plan on the opposite page j and, when I have 
 subjoined the explanations of the plan, I shall proceed 
 to make some remarks on it. 
 
 EXPLANATIONS OF THE PLAN. 
 
 1. The whole length, from outside to outside, froaa East to West, is 
 247J feet, or 15 rod. 
 
 2. The whole width, from North to South, is 165 feet, or 10 rod. 
 
 3. The outside line represents the place for the hedge. 
 
 4. The double line represents the place for the wall. 
 
 5. The walks are described by dotting, and all, except the middle walk, 
 are four feet wide. 
 
 6. The walk which goes all along the garden from East to West is six 
 feet wide. 
 
 7. a A door-way through the hedge, 3 feet wide. 
 
 8. 6 a door-way in the wall, 3 feet wide, and 4 feet from the corner of the 
 wall. 
 
 9. r, c, c, c, is the outer garden, a clear rod wide, between the wall and 
 the hedge. 
 
 10. d is the Hot-bed ground, 58^ feet from East to West, and 63 feet from 
 North to South. 
 
 11. e e e is a border, 10 feet wide, under the inside of the wall. 
 
 12. / is a plat of ground, 50^ feet from East to West, and 49 feet from 
 North to South. 
 
 13. g, h, i, k, are plats of ground, each of which has 67 feet from East to 
 West, and 49 feet from North to South. 
 
 14. m is a door-way in the wall, 3 feet wide, and 4 feet from the corner of 
 the wall. 
 
 15 « is a border, 4 feet under the inside of the West wall. 
 
 16. p is a door-way in the Western hedge of the Hot-bed ground. 
 
 17. { is a door- way in the Southern hedge of the Hot-bed ground. 
 
 18. r The tool-house. 
 
 19. The letter N points out the North side of the garden ; the letter E the 
 £ast side, and the other letters the South and the West aides. 
 
II. 
 
 ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 S3Z3Sb|' 
 
 ^^a-iwe?'-- u?tM<3r<Mu^-rv? fj^ . 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■^stfr:.^^^yt:< f .\-j»v^.frTis^ 
 
 %C,rXf^fAl^i>*-j-Vf^-i><r^^X-^iiA'fl-tX'^l'^?rJ-:V:'^/^^^ 
 
 i=i 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP, 
 
 38. It will be seen, that I make but one entrance into 
 the g-arden, as at a ; because this entrance, which is a 
 door-way in a hedge, is a somewhat difficult affair : 
 iiedges cannot be joined to wood work, as brick work 
 can. There must be posts and a door-frame : and, if 
 great pains be not taken, there will soon be a gap where 
 these join the hedge. This will be the weak part of the 
 fortification. There must be a bridge over the ditch ; 
 and that which serves the garrison equally serves the 
 besieger ; therefore, this door ought to be well guarded 
 on the top and on the sides by stout pieces of wood pro- 
 jecting in every direction from the top and sides of the 
 door, and well guarded with tenter-hooks. Prevention 
 is better than cure : '' lead us not into temptation," is the 
 most sensible of all possible prayers : you intlict no 
 hardship by removing temptation j but you inflict great 
 hardship in the pursuit of compensation or punishment : 
 let the whole neighbourhood be convinced that forcible 
 entry into the garden is not to be accomplished without 
 infinite difficulty : and that is a great deal better than all 
 the steel-traps, spring guns, and penal laws in the world. 
 It is better to have sentry-boxes and sentinels in them 
 than to resort to the steel-trap and spring-gun system j 
 and, for my own part, mortified as I should be at spo- 
 liations committed in the garden, I would submit to 
 them, and even to the destruction of the garden itself, 
 rather than disgrace my premises by such terrific threats. 
 
 39. The door-way at a lets you into a short path to 
 another door-way in the wall at b. Through these door- 
 ways the materials naturally go for the making of hot- 
 oeds ; and, therefore, the hot-bed ground, d, is the first 
 
IF. EXCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 part of the walled garden into which you enter. I will, 
 before I go further, give a particular description of this 
 hot-bed ground, which is by no means an unimportant 
 part of the concern. It is fifty-eight feet and a half from 
 east to Avest, and sixty- three feet from north to south. A 
 door goes out of it at 9, another door at p. These door- 
 ways lead to the several parts of the garden, and are con- 
 venient outlets for all purposes, whatsoever. There is, 
 you will perceive, the wall on the north side of this hot- 
 bed ground, arjd the wall on the west side. The other 
 two sides should be bounded by a hedge ; and that hedge 
 should be of yew. The fences to hot-bed grounds are 
 frequently made of reed, which are very good for the 
 purpose of shelter 3 but which are dead-looking things 
 at the best. The fences to such places are sometimes 
 made of hornbeam 5 but this sort of hedge loses it» 
 leaves in the winter, and is of little use precisely at the 
 season when it is most wanted. The yew is evergreen. 
 It is by no means difficult to make grow; it does not 
 grow slowly -, it is clipped into any form that you please ; 
 regularly clipped, it remains in the same form for ever j 
 it is as close at the bottom as in the middle of its height ; 
 it has all the regularity of a wall itself; and, in such a 
 case, it is a great deal better than a wall, because it oc- 
 casions no recoiling or reverberation of the wind. The 
 height of the hedge should not much exceed six feet, for 
 then it would shade part of the beds ; and it is hardly 
 necessary to say, that it should be kept regularly clipped 
 twice in the year, in the same manner as is directed for 
 the hawthorn hedge. There should not only be door- 
 ways at p and g, but doors also ; otherwise the wind 
 would sweep in, and, in part, defeat the object of the 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 hedge. Hardly any family can want a greater space thau 
 this for the raising of things for which hot-beds are ne- ; 
 cessary ; and, if the space were found to be larger than 
 was wanted, this would be a very good place for the de- 
 positing of a heap of compost^ or any other thing which 
 is unsightly, and which, if not somewhat hidden, would 
 disfigure the garden. 
 
 40. The borders e are, as has been seen in the explana- 
 tions, ten feet wide 3 and the earth in them ought to 
 have a little declivity from the wall : it may be very 
 trifling, but it ought to be a little. As to the plats /, g, 
 h, i, k, they are for the growth of garden- plants in 
 general J and the parts of them best suited for different 
 plants at different seasons of the year, will be spoken of 
 under the heads of the particular plants. The paths 
 and walks ought to be of gravel, if possible j for, 
 whatever expense this may be attended with in certain 
 cases, there are hardly any other means of having dry 
 paths and walks in winter. Grass is very bad, for it must 
 not only be walked upon, but frequently wheeled upon 
 with barrows heavily laden, and especially in winter- 
 time ; and this soon makes them a mass of dirt and of 
 ugliness. But, you cannot have gravel-walks or paths, to 
 be kept in any thing like order, unless you make them 
 well in the first place, and protect them against the falling 
 down of earth upon them for ever afterwards. There- 
 fore, when you have laid out the garden by lines and 
 stumps, the place or places for the walks and paths, 
 should be dug out to the depth of all the top-soil, which 
 ought to be thrown over the adjoining ground on both 
 sides, and made perfectly level at the bottom. Then 
 
ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 lere should be a bed of brick-bats, or of large flint, or 
 other stones ; and upon the top of that bed, about six 
 iches of clean gravel. 
 
 41. The next thing is to make efficient provision for 
 preventing the earth from the borders and plats, which 
 ought to be about four inches higher than the tops of the 
 walks, from tumbling into the walks when digging, 
 hoeing, and other operations take place j but especially 
 digging J for it is impossible to dig the ground close to 
 a walk which has not a sufficient protection, without 
 bringing dirt upon the walk : all the shovelling in the 
 world will not get it oflF again clean, unless you go down 
 so deep as to take up part of the gravel with the dirt 5 
 so that, your walk must soon become a dirty-looking 
 affair, in whicA weeds and grass will be everlastingly 
 coming : or you must take away, little by little, the 
 gravel, by shovelling, till you have flung it pretty nearly 
 all upon the borders and plats, and thereby not only 
 destroyed your walk, but injured your cultivated land. 
 To prevent these very great troubles and injuries, you 
 must resolve to have an efficient protection for the walk j 
 and this, I venture to assert, is to be obtained by no other 
 means than by the use of box. Many contrivances have 
 been resorted to for the purpose of avoiding this pretty 
 little tree, which, like all other really valuable things,, 
 requires some little time ; some little patience, and great 
 attention, after you have got it. In the end, indeed, it is 
 a great deal cheaper than any thing else 3 but it requires 
 some attention and patience at first, and regular clipping 
 every year twice. I have seen, and have had, as an 
 edging (which ramparts of this sort are called), a little 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 flowering plant called thrift : I have seen strawberries 
 thickly planted for this purpose : I have seen daisies, and 
 various other things, made use of as edgings : but, all 
 these herbaceous things ramble very quickly over the 
 ground j extend their creepers over the walk, as well as 
 over the adjoining ground -, and, instead of being content 
 to occupy the space of three inches wide, to which it is 
 vainly hoped their moderation will confine them, they 
 encroach to the extent of a foot the first summer j and, 
 if left alone for only a couple of years, they will cover the 
 whole of a walk six feet wide, harbouring all sorts of 
 reptiles, making the walk pretty nearly as dirty as if it 
 did not consist of gravel. I have sometimes seen narrow 
 edgings of grass, which, perhaps, are the worst of all. 
 Make such an edging,, of four inches wide, in the autumn, 
 and it will be sixteen inches wide before the next autumn, 
 unless you pare down the edges of it three or four times. 
 This must be done hyaline; and. even then, some dirt 
 must be cut from the edging, to come into the walk : 
 this is, in fact, a rampart of dirt itself. It must be 
 mowed not less than ten times during the summer, or it 
 is ugly beyond description ; besides bringing you an 
 abundant crop of seeds to be scattered over the walk, and 
 over the adjoining ground. Of all edgings, therefore, 
 this is the least efficient for the purpose, and by far the 
 most expensive. 
 
 4^. The box is at once the most efficient of all possible 
 things, and the prettiest plant that can possibly be con- 
 ceived : the colour of its leaf; the form of its leaf; its 
 docility as to height, width, and shape 5 the compactness 
 of its little branches ; its great durability as a plant : its 
 
I 
 
 H. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 thriving in all sorts of soils, and in all sorts of aspects ; 
 its freshness under the hottest sun, and its defiance of all 
 shade and all drip : these are beauties and qualities, 
 which, for ages upon ages, have marked it out as the 
 chosen plant for this very important purpose. 
 
 43. The box, to all its other excellent qualities, adds 
 that of facility of propagation. You take up the plants, 
 when they are from three to six inches high, when they 
 have great numbers of shoots coming from the same 
 stem ; you strip these shoots off, put them into the 
 ground, to about the depth of two inches, or a little 
 more 5 fasten them well there, first with the liand, and 
 then with the foot ; clip them along at the top to within 
 about two inches of the ground^ and you have a box 
 edging at once. You must, indeed, purchase the plants, 
 if you have not taken care to raise them before-hand ; 
 and, as to thrift, strawberries, daisies, or grass edgings, 
 there are generally cart-loads of them to be thrown away, 
 or to be dug from a common. I should suppose, how- 
 ever, that ten pounds' worth of box, bought at the 
 nurseries, would be sufficient for the whole garden j and, 
 then, with common care, you have neat and efficient 
 edgings for a life- time. 
 
 44. To plant the box, some care must be taken. The 
 edging ought to be planted as soon as the gravel walks 
 are formed. The box ought to be placed perpendicu- 
 larly, and in a very straight line, close to the gravel ; and 
 with no earth at all between it and the gravel. It ought 
 to stand, when planted and cut otf, about four inches 
 high J and the earth in the borders or plats ought to be 
 
SITUATION, SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 pushed back a little, and kept back for the first year, to 
 prevent it from being washed back over the walks. When 
 the edging arrive at its proper height, it will stand 
 about seven inches high, on the gravel side, and will be 
 about three inches higher than the earth in the border, 
 and will act like a little wall to keep the earth out of the 
 walks ; which, to say nothing of the difference in the 
 look, it will do as effectually as brick, or boards, or any 
 thing else, however solid. The edging ought to be clipped 
 in the winter, or very early in the spring, on both the 
 sides and at top ; a line ought to be used to regulate 
 the movements of the sheers : it ought to be clipped 
 again, in the same manner, just about Midsummer^ and, 
 if there be a more neat and beautiful thing than this in 
 the world, all that I can say, is, that I never saw that 
 thing. 
 
 45. There is yet one thing to notice in this laying-out 
 of the garden j namely, that there must be a shed to serve 
 as a place for depositing tools, flower-pots, und the like j 
 and also, for the gardeners to retire to in case of rain, 
 and to do works there when they cannot do work out of 
 doors. This is a very necessary part of the garden pre- 
 mises, and ought to be sufficiently spacious not only for 
 the purposes just mentioned, but for the hanging up of 
 seeds to dry, and for various other purposes. This shed 
 ought to stand also as near to the hot-bed ground as 
 convenient, and yet it is too dissightly to be in the inside 
 of the garden. A shed about forty feet long, and about 
 seven feet wide, might suffice for this purpose 5 and it 
 might stand very conveniently, as at r in the outer gar- 
 den, on the east side of the entrance at a, the back of the 
 
II. ' ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 building being high enough to allow the eves of the roof 
 to be six feet from the ground ; and the back being 
 towards the hedge, and not towards the wall. As to 
 water, I have not pointed out any particular place 
 in the garden for a Avell or other means of obtaining 
 water. It will be seen, by-and-by, that I am of opinion 
 that a great deal of time and labour bestowed upon 
 watering are, in ^neral, so much time and labour thrown 
 away, and to effect injury instead of good. Never- 
 theless, there are many cases in which watering by hand 
 is absolutely necessary : in hot-beds, for instance ; in the 
 case of plants in pots ; in the case of things which can be 
 shaded during the day ; in the case of cauliflowers, 
 which grow so much larger and finer when dishes are 
 made round them and plenty of water given. Therefore, 
 there must be water used in a garden of this extent ; and 
 to bring it from any considerable distance would be 
 a thing extremely inconvenient and attended with great 
 expense. If running water can be brought through 
 a part of the garden, that is the desirable thing j and, 
 when we see the great number of situations where this 
 might be done at a mere trifling expense, we are asto- 
 nished at the small number of instances in which it has 
 ever been attempted. There is scarcely an instance, 
 where we find a mansion-house of any considerable size, 
 where a river, a brook, or a spring, might not be made 
 to furnish a run of water for the garden. Above ground 
 or under ground, until it came to the wall, where an arch 
 and a grating might be made to let it in, a channel to 
 conduct it across, and another arch and grating to let it 
 out again. Running water, besides the prettiness of it, 
 wc>uld give banks or edges for the growth of several 
 
SITUATIOXj SOIL, ChAP. 
 
 things which delight in it : strawberries, raspberries, 
 quince- trees, and almost every sort of tree. But, sup- 
 posing it to be impossible to have the water in this way, 
 the usual resource of a well must be resorted to. From 
 this well, the water would be raised by a pump pouring 
 the water into a large cistern, made of brick and well 
 cemented, the walls rising about two feet above the 
 ground, which cistern should be k^t always pretty 
 nearly full, in order for the water to get softened by the 
 air, and to be more fit for the uses of the garden. There 
 will be plenty of room for this pump and cistern in the 
 hot-bed ground, at the south-east corner ; and, from this 
 spot, it could be carried or wheeled to all parts of the 
 garden. No great pains need be taken with regard to the 
 making of the cistern, so that it were well cemented : 
 the brick-work should be nine inches thick, and the form 
 should be circular, otherwise the sides might fall in. 
 
 46. In conclusion of these instructions, as to the 
 laying-out of the garden, I ought to observe that the 
 narrow border at 7i, which is four feet wide between the 
 wall and the path, is necessary, because the path is to be 
 at four feet distance from the wall, in order that the door- 
 way in the wall on the south side may not be close to 
 the corner, which would lessen the strength of the wall. 
 In the work of laying- out, great care ought to be taken 
 with regard to straightness and distances, and particu- 
 larly as to the squareness of every part. To make lines 
 ]jerpendicular, and perfectly so, is, indeed, no difficult 
 matter, when one knows how to do it ; but one must 
 know how to do it, before one can do it at all. If the gar- 
 dener understand this much of geometry, he will do it 
 without any difficulty j but, if he only pretend to under- 
 
II. ENCLOSING, LAYING OUT. 
 
 stand the matter, and begin to walk backward and for- 
 ward, stretching out lines and cocking his eye, make no 
 bones with him j send for a bricklayer, and see the 
 stumps driven into the ground yourself. The four out* 
 side lines being laid down with, perfect truth, it must be 
 a bungling fellow, indeed, that cannot do the rest ; but 
 if they be only a little askew, you have a botch in your 
 eye for the rest of your life, and a botch of your own 
 making too. Gardeners seldom want for confidence in 
 their own abilities j and, in many cases, it requires time 
 and some experience of their doings, to ascertain whether 
 they know their business or do not j especially when 
 in pretensions they are so bold, and the result is at a con- 
 siderable distance, and clouded with so many intervening 
 circumstances j but this affair of raising perpendiculars 
 upon a given line, is a thing settled in a moment : you 
 have nothing to do but to say to the gardener, '' Come, 
 let us see how you do it." He has but one way in which 
 he can do it j and, if he do not immediately begin to 
 work in that way, pack him off to get a bricklayer, even 
 a botch in which trade w ill perform the work to the 
 truth of & h^ir. 
 
HOT-BEDS Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER m. 
 
 On the making, and managing of Hot-beds and Green-houses, 
 
 48. I OBSERVED before, that it did not accord with my 
 plan to treat of Hot-houses, which, as I then observed, 
 was a branch wholly distinct from gardening in general, 
 and applicable to the circumstances of comparatively very 
 few persons -, and that, therefore, to enter on such a 
 treatise, would be of little use to the public in general, 
 while it would injuriously augment the bulk of my work. 
 Hot-beds are, however, of a different character : they 
 may be [made an amusement, and are even things of real 
 utility, to a very considerable number of persons : to all, 
 in short, who have gardens, and who have the stable- 
 dung of two or three horses, or even of one horse, at 
 their command, or who can procure such materials (as is 
 the case in the neighbourhood of great towns), at a 
 reasonable rate. A green-house, upon a small scale, or 
 adapted to the particular circumstances of the proprietor, 
 is within the reach of a very considerable part of the 
 community j and, therefore, without, however, consider- 
 ing it as an essential object, or one worthy of very great 
 attention, I shall give my opinions upon that species of 
 gardening also. 
 
 49. Hot-beds are used either for raising such things as 
 are not to be raised during the vs inter or the spring with- 
 
III. AND GREEN-HOUSES. 
 
 out such assistance, or for the raising of such things as 
 are not to be had at all in our climate, without artificial 
 heat of some kind. Before we speak of the form and 
 dimensions of a hot-bed, it will be best, perhaps, to de- 
 scribe the frame, which is to go upon it ; because the 
 reasons for the directions for the making of the bed will 
 then the more manifestly appear. A frame consists of 
 four pieces of wood j and, let us suppose it to be twelve 
 feet long, and four feet wide. Frames are sometimes of 
 greater and sometimes of less dimensions j but for the 
 sake of illustration, let us take a frame of this size. There 
 miist be one board or two boards joined together, to 
 make the back, twelve feet in length, and eighteen inches 
 wide -J one board, to make the front, twelve feet in length, 
 and nine inches wide. One board at each end, to be 
 joined on to the ends of the front and the back 3 eighteen 
 inches at the back, and nine inches at the front. These 
 boards being well dove-tailed together at the four cor- 
 ners, and being about two inches thick, form the frame. 
 Upon this frame, glazed sashes are put, which are called 
 lights, and which rest upon the back and front and ends 
 of the frame, and also upon bars put across and fastened 
 into the sides of the frame, in such a way as to form 
 resting-places for the sides of the lights. This is quite 
 enough of description j because the carpenters know 
 how to make these things j and all that I have to do in 
 this place, is, so to designate them that the reader may 
 know what I am talking about. 
 
 50. Having the intention to make a hot-bed, you must 
 first see that you have a sufficiency of materials. You 
 take the stable dung, carry it into the hot-bed ground 
 d2 
 
HOT-BEDS Chap. 
 
 (letter d in the plan of the garden), and there put it into 
 a conical heap. If you have not enough of dung from 
 the stable-door, some from cow-stalls, sheep-yards, and 
 even long stuflf from pig-beds or pig-styes, half-stained 
 litter ', or any thing of a grassey kind, and not entirely 
 dry, will lend you assistance j but, let it be understood, 
 that the best of all possible materials for the making of 
 hot-beds is dung from the stable of corn-fed horses ; and ^ 
 the next best comes from a sheep-yard, or from stalls 
 where ewes and sucking lambs have been kept. Wheat- 
 straw is by far the best straw to have been used as litter, 
 when the dung is wanted for hot-beds. Bearing in mind 
 that this is the best sort of materials, you must take 
 what you have j and, if it be of an inferior quality, there 
 must, at any rate, be a greater quantity of it. Having 
 collected your materials together in the hot-bed ground, 
 you next shake them up well together into a heap, in a 
 flattish conical form. It is not sufficient merely to put 
 the dung up together in this form : it must be taken a 
 prongful at a time, and shaken entirely straw from straw, 
 and mixed, long with short, duly and truly through every 
 part of the heap, from the bottom to the top. When 
 thus shaken up, the short stuff on the ground where the 
 dung was tossed down out of the wheel-barrow, ought 
 to be shovelled up very clean, and flung over the heap. 
 If the dung be good, you will see it begin to smoke the 
 next day. It should lie only two days and a half, or 
 three days, before it be moved again. It should now be 
 turned over very truly, well shaken to pieces again, and 
 another conical heap formed of it, care being taken to 
 put the outsides of the first heap towards the inside of the 
 second heap. In two or three days more, it will have 
 
111. AND GRBEN-nOUSES. 
 
 heated again sufficiently 3 .ind then it should be turned 
 once more, especially if there be a great proportion of 
 long litter in it. If the dung be very dry, and the 
 weather be dry also, and especially if it have a large por- 
 tion of long littery stuff in it, it should be watered with a 
 watering-pot, when it is first mixed up, a watering being 
 given all over the heap at every foot of height that the 
 heap rises to. This is necessary to cause that fermentation 
 without which there cannot be a hot-bed j but, generally 
 speaking, this is not necessary, for dung is seldom flung 
 out with so large a portion of clean straw, as to prevent 
 it from heating when thrown up in a heap. 
 
 51. It is as well to consider it to be a general rule, 
 scarcely ever to be departed from, that the dung should 
 ferment three several times during the space of nine 
 days, before it be put into a hot-bed. Unless this be the 
 case, the heat of the bed (unless the dung be very short 
 at the beginning) will not be lasting, and will never be 
 regular j nor will the bed be solid and uniform. It will 
 sink more in some places than in others, and will be 
 hotter in some places than in others j therefore, it is 
 useless to be impatient, since the thing cannot be done 
 well without this previous preparation. 
 
 52. The dung being duly prepared, you make the bed 
 in the following manner, having first made the ground 
 on which it is to stand, perfectly level. If the general 
 surface of the ground round about be on the slope, you 
 must take care so to change the situation of that part of 
 the ground on which the bed is to stand, as to make 
 that part perfectly level. It is not sufficient that you 
 
HOT-BEDS Chap. 
 
 have the top of the bed level. The bottom must be level 
 also, or else the sinking on one side or at one end, will 
 be greater than on the other side, or at the other end j 
 the frame will stand unevenly ; the slope of the lights 
 will be too steep, or not steep enough ; the bed will 
 sometimes crack -, the water will run 'off and not sink 
 into the earth 5 and, in short, without a perfect level 
 whereon to place the bed, the inconveniences are 
 endless. 
 
 53. Having got the level spot, you are to make a bed 
 as nearly as possible of the dimensions of the frame j and 
 the best possible way is to take the frame itself, put it 
 upon the ground where you intend the bed shall standi 
 put up a straight piece of wood on the outside of each 
 corner of the frame, while it is standing upon the 
 ground 5 then take the frame away j then put a thin 
 board edgeways upon the ground on the back, and on 
 the front, and at the two ends, which board ought to 
 come on the outsides of the four stakes, and to be held 
 up by four pegs. You have then a true guide for making 
 the bottom of the bed j and you begin by putting a little 
 of the longest of the dung just at the bottom. Then 
 you go on shaking the dung into this sort of box, divid- 
 ing straw from straw, and mixing long and short duly 
 together, in the same manner as was before directed in 
 the case of the conical heaps, and taking care to keep 
 beating the dung down with the prong in every part of 
 the bed. When you have shaken on dung to the thick- 
 ness of four or five inches, beat all over again, and so on 
 at every four or five inches deep, until the work be 
 finished. When you get to the top of the boards, you 
 
III. AND GREEN-HOUSES. 
 
 will proceed very well without any j but you must be 
 very careful to keep the outsides and ends perfectly up- 
 right J for this purpose, great care must be taken that 
 the stakes at the four corners of the bed be placed per- 
 pendicularly. Strain the line now-and-then from stake to 
 stake, and that will be your guide. Particular care must 
 be taken to keep the edges of the bed well-beaten as you 
 proceed 5 for, if you fail to do this, they will sink more 
 than the middle will sink j and then there will be a crack 
 in the earth in the middle of the bed. As you proceed, 
 the perpendicular sides and ends ought to be well beaten 
 also 3 and, when the work is finished, it ought to be a 
 building as smooth and as upright as a wall, being per- 
 fectly level at the top, and, of course, of uniform height 
 in all its parts. 
 
 54. When the b6d is completed, put on the frame im- 
 mediately. If the foregoing instructions have been ob- 
 served, the bed will be about an inch longer, and an 
 inch wider than the frame. It should not be more, on 
 any account 3 especially if it be intended to receive those 
 linings of which I shall have to speak hereafter. After 
 putting on the frame, put on the lights ; and, as you will 
 not push the lights down in order to give air, you will 
 find that the heat of the bed will begin to rise in the 
 course of twelve hours, or thereabouts. As soon as the 
 heat begins to rise, there should be some air given to the 
 bed by pushing the lights, or some of them, down four or 
 five inches from the back, or drawing them up four or 
 five inches from the front j for, stench is not good, 
 whether before, or after, plants be put into the bed. In 
 about three days, the bed will be in full heat. Some 
 
HOT-BEDS Chap. 
 
 persons recommend to put a sharp-pointed stick down a 
 foot, or a foot and a half into the bed, to ascertain the 
 degree of the heat. Your finger is a great deal better 
 than a stick : whatever heat there is must discover itself 
 at the top of the bed, and there it is that your finger, 
 well poked down into the centre of the bed, will enable 
 you to judge of this matter a great deal better than any 
 thing else. It is a very delicate matter : it is one of the 
 things that demands the greatest possible attention ; for, 
 the heat of dung, though it will not probably come to a 
 blaze, in any case, as a hay- rick sometimes will, it will 
 burn as completely as fire 3 and, if the earth be put on 
 too soon, it will burn the earth into a sort of cinder, in 
 which nothing will ever grow until that earth has been 
 for some time exposed to the atmosphere. You must, 
 therefore, be very careful to ascertain that the burning 
 powers of the bed are passed, before you put on the 
 earth. The rule for arriving at a certainty of this know- 
 ledge is this : the next morning after you have made the 
 bed, poke your fore-finger well down into the centre of 
 the top of it j and continue to do the same every morn- 
 ing and every evening, or more frequently. You will 
 find the heat increase, till (if the bed be a strong one) 
 the heat be too great for you to endure your finger in it 
 for a moment : soon after this, you will find the heat 
 begin to decline 3 and, as soon as you can bear your 
 finger in it without any inconvenience, you may put on 
 the earth all over the bed to about six inches depth, 
 which earth ought not to be as dry as dust -, but ought, 
 at the same time, not to be wet. 
 
 55. Thus is the bed ready for the receiving of seeds or 
 
III. AND GREEN-HOU8BS. 
 
 plants : thus is the hot-bed made : these are the general 
 instructions for the making of hot-beds, which are to be 
 of di£ferent heights, of diflferent strength, and managed 
 subsequently in a dififerent manner, according with the 
 nature of the different plants to be cultivated in them, 
 and according to the season of the year, when the sow- 
 ing, planting, and cultivation is to take place. Cucum- 
 bers and melons, are, in England, the principal things for 
 the rearing of which hot-beds are usually made : there 
 are, however, several other things which are forced for- 
 ward by the means of hot-beds ; and, in the treating of 
 cucumbers and melons, and of those other sorts of garden 
 plants Avhich are raised in hot-beds, I shall, under the 
 names of these several plants, in the alphabetical list, 
 give direction for the management of the hot-beds in 
 whicli they are placed. A hot-bed for the purpose of 
 getting early radishes, is a very different thing from 
 a hot-bed adapted to the raising of melons and cu- 
 cumbers J and, therefore, no general directions for the 
 management of the beds can be complete: the heat 
 which is absolutely necessary to bring cucumbers to per- 
 fection, would totally destroy radish plants, or, at least, 
 prevent them from ever producing a radish fit to be 
 eaten ; but, as to the manner of making beds, it is the 
 same in all cases ; and of that manner, I think I have 
 here given directions sufficient for any person, even 
 though he had never seen a hot-bed in his life. I will 
 just add, that the quantity of materials may be augmented 
 by using a great plenty of straw as litter, instead of 
 being sparing of straw ; and that, if you have the mak- 
 ing of hot-beds in your eye, it is good, during the fall 
 ^ and the early part of the winter, while the materials are 
 
 d5 
 
HOT-BEDS Chap. 
 
 creating, to let the dung from the stable be flung rather 
 widely about ; and not into heaps, in which it wouU' 
 he.it, and exhaust itself before-hand. 
 
 56. As to the making of green-houses, I shall think 
 of nothing more than a place to preserve tender plants 
 from the frost in the winter, and to have hardy flowers 
 during a season of the year when there are no flowers 
 abroad. It is necessary, in order to make a green-house 
 an agreeable thing, that it should be very near to the 
 dwelling-house. It is intended for the pleasure, for the 
 rational amusement and occupation of persons who 
 would otherwise be employed in things irrational j if not 
 in things mischievous. To have it at a distance from the 
 house would be to render it nearly useless j for, to take 
 a pretty long tramp in the dirt or wet, or snow, to get 
 at a sight of the plants, would be, nine times out of ten^ 
 not performed ; and the pain would, in most instances, 
 exceed the pleasure. A green-house should, therefore, 
 be erected against the dwelling-house. The south side of 
 the house would be the best for the green-house ; but 
 any aspect, to the south of due east and due west nlay do 
 tolerably well j and a door into it, and a window, or win- 
 dows looking into it, from any room of the house, in 
 which people frequently sit, makes the thing extremely 
 beautiful and agreeable. It must be glass on the top, at 
 the end most distant from the house, and in the front from 
 about three feet high. There should be an outer door 
 for the ingress and egress of the gardener, and a little 
 flue running round for the purpose of obtaining heat suf- 
 ficient for the keeping of a heat to between forty and fifty 
 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer. Stages, shelves,, 
 
III. AND GREEN-HOUSES. 
 
 and other things necessary for arranging the plants upon, 
 would-be erected according to the taste of the owner, and 
 the purposes in view. Besides the plants usually kept in 
 green-houses, such as geraniums, heaths, and the like, 
 I should choose to have bulbous-rooted plants of various 
 sorts, even the most common, not excluding snow-drops 
 and crocuses. Primroses and violets (the common single 
 sorts, for the others have no smell), cowslips and 
 daisies j some dwarf roses ; and thus a very beautiful 
 flower-garden would be to be seen in the month of 
 February, or still more early. Green-house plants are 
 always set out of doors in the summer, when they are 
 generally very much eclipsed in beauty by plants of a 
 hardy and more vigorous description. If there be no 
 green-house, these plants are taken into the house, shut 
 up in a small space, very frequently in the shade, and 
 always from strong light, especially early in the morn- 
 ing J which greatly injures, and, sometimes, totally de- 
 stroys, them J besides, they really give no pleasure, ex- 
 cept in winter j for, as was observed before, after the 
 month of May comes, they are far surpassed in beauty 
 by the shrubberies and the parterre. 
 
 * 57. Nor is such a place without its real use, for, few 
 persons will deny that fruit is of use j none will deny 
 that fine grapes are amongst the best of fruit ; we all 
 
 L know that these are not to be had in England, in the ge- 
 neral run of years, without the assistance of glass ; and 
 
 [ the green-house, in which the shade of the grapes would 
 do no injury to the plants, because these would be out 
 in the open air, except at the time when there would be 
 little of leaf upon the vines^ is as complete a thing for a 
 
HOT-BEDS Chap. 
 
 grapery as if made for that sole purpose ; for, if the heat 
 of from forty to fifty degrees would bring the vines to 
 bear at a time, or, rather, to send out their leaves at a 
 time inconvenient for the plants, you have nothing to do 
 but to take the vine branches out of the house, and keep 
 them there until such time tliat they might be put in 
 again without their leaves producing an inconvenient 
 shade over the plants, previous to the time of these latter 
 being moved out into the open air. 
 
 58. As the green-house would have given you a beau- 
 tiful flower-garden and shrubbery during the winter, 
 making the part of the house to which it is attached the 
 pleasantest place in the world, so, in summer, what can 
 be imagined more beautiful than bunches of grapes hang- 
 ing down, surrounded by elegant leaves, and proceeding 
 on each grape from the size of a pin's head to the size 
 of a plum ? How the vines are to be planted, trained and 
 pruned ; and how the several plants suited to a green- 
 house are to be propagated, reared and managed 3 will be 
 spoken of under the head of Vines, and under those of the 
 several plants and flowers j but I cannot conclude this 
 Chapter without observing, that it is the moral effects 
 naturally attending a green-house, that I set the most 
 value upon. I will not, with Loud Bacon, praise pur- 
 suits like these, because *^' God Almighty first planted a 
 garden j" nor with Cowley, because " a Garden is like 
 Heaven 3" nor with Addison, because a "Garden was 
 the habitation of our first parents before their fall;" all 
 which is rather far-fetched, and puts one in mind of the 
 dispute between the gardeners and the tailors, as to the 
 antiquity of their respective callings ; the former con- 
 
III. AND GREEN-HOUSES. 
 
 tending that the planting of the garden took place before 
 the sewing of the fig-leaves together ; and the latter con- 
 tending, that there was no gardening at all till Adam was 
 expelled^ and compelled to work ; but, that the sewing 
 was a real and bon^l fide act of tailoring. This, to be sure, 
 is vulgar and grovelling work j but, who can blame such 
 persons when they have Lord Bacon to furnish them with 
 a precedent ? I like, a great deal better than these 
 writers. Sir William Temple, who, while he was a man 
 of the soundest judgment, employed in some of the 
 greatest concerns of his country, so ardently and yet so 
 rationally and unaffectedly praises the pursuits of gar- 
 dening, in which he delighted from his youth to his old 
 age j and of his taste in which he gave such delightful 
 proofs in those gardens and grounds at Moor Park in 
 Surrey, beneath the turf of one spot of which he caused, 
 by his will, his heart to be buried, and which spot, toge- 
 ther with all the rest of the beautiful arrangement, has 
 been torn about and disfigured within the last fifty years 
 by a succession of wine- merchants, spirit-merchants. 
 West Indians, and God knows what besides : I like a 
 great deal better the sentiments of this really wise and 
 excellent man; but I look still further as to effects. 
 There must be amusements in every family. Children 
 observe and follow their parents in almost every thing. 
 How much better, during a long and dreary winter, for 
 daughters, and even sons, to assist, or attend, their 
 mother, in a green-house, than to be seated with her at 
 cards, or, in the blubberings over a stupid novel, or at 
 any other amusement that can possibly be conceived ! 
 How much more innocent, more pleasant, more free 
 from temptation to evil, this amusement, than any other ! 
 
HOT-BEDS. Chap. 
 
 How much more instructive, too ! " Bend the twig 
 when young :" but, here, there needs no force ; nay, not 
 even persuasion. The thing is so pleasant in itself j it 
 so naturally meets the wishes j that the taste is fixed at 
 once, and it remains, to the exclusion of cards and dice, 
 to the end of life. Indeed, gardening in general is fa- 
 vourable to the well-being of man. As the taste for it 
 decreases in any country, vicious amusements and vicious 
 habits are sure to increase. Towns are preferred to the 
 country j and the time is spent in something or other 
 that conduces to vice and misery. Gardening is a source 
 of much greater profit than is generally imagined ; but, 
 merely as an amusement, or recreation, it is a thing of 
 very great value : it is a pursuit not only compatible 
 with, but favourable to, the study of any art or science : 
 it is conducive to health, by means of the irresistible 
 temptation which it oflfers to early rising j to the stirring 
 abroad upon one's legs j for a man may really ride till 
 he cannot walk, sit till he cannot stand, and lie abed till 
 he cannot get up. It tends to turn the minds of youth 
 from amusements and attachments of a frivolous or vicious 
 nature : it is a taste which is indulged at home : it tends 
 to make home pleasant, and to endear us to the spot on 
 which it is our lot to live : and, as to the expenses attend- 
 ing it, what are all these expenses, compared with those 
 of the short, the unsatisfactory, the injurious enjoyments ' 
 of the card-table, and the rest of those amusements or 
 pastimes which are sought for in the town ? 
 
IV. PROPAGATION, &C. 
 
 CHAPTER TV. 
 
 On Propagation and Cultivation in general. 
 
 59. In order to have good products, we must be care- 
 ful and diligent in the propagation and cultivation of the 
 several plants ; for, though nature does niuch, she will 
 not do all. He who trusts to chance for a crop, de- 
 serves none, and he generally has what he deserves. 
 
 60. The propagation of plants is the bringing of them 
 forth, OT the increasing and multiplying of them. This is ef- 
 fected in several different ways : by seed, by suckers, by off- 
 sets, by layers, by cuttings. But, bear in mind, that all plants 
 from the radish to the oak, may be propagated by the 
 means of seed; while there are many plants which can 
 be propagated by no other means ; and, of these the radish 
 and the oak are two. Let me just qualify here, by ob- 
 serving, that I enter not into the deep question (which 
 so many have puzzled their heads with) of equivocal ge- 
 neration. I confine myself to things of which we have a 
 certain knowledge. 
 
 61. With regard to propagation by means other than 
 that of seed, I shall speak of it fully enough under the 
 names of the several plants, which are, as to the way of 
 propagating them, to be considered as exceptions to the 
 general rule. Therefore, I shall, in the present Chapter, 
 treat of propagation by seed only. 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChAP. 
 
 62. Cultivation must, of course, differ, in some re- 
 spects, to suit itself to certain differences in the plants to 
 be cultivated ; but, there are some principles and rules, 
 which apply to the cultivation of all plants ; and it is of 
 these only that I propose to speak in the present Chapter. 
 
 63. It is quite useless, indeed it is grossly absurd, to 
 prepare land and to incur trouble and expense, without 
 duly, and even very care/M%, attending to the seed that 
 we are going to sow. The sort, the genuineness, the sound- 
 ness, are all matters to be attended to^ if we mean to 
 avoid mortification and loss. Therefore, the first thing 
 is the 
 
 SORT OF SEED. 
 
 64. We should make sure here j for, what a loss to 
 have late cabbages instead of early ones ! As to beans, 
 peas, and many other things, there cannot easily be mis- 
 take or deception. But, as to cabbages, cauliflowers, 
 radishes, lettuces, onions, leeks, and numerous others, 
 the eye is no guide at all. If, therefore, you do not save 
 your own seed (of the manner of doing which I shall speak 
 by and by), you ought to be very careful as to whom you 
 purchase of 3 and, though the seller be a person of per- 
 fect probity, he may be deceived himself. If you do not 
 save your own seed, which, as will be seen, cannot 
 always be done with safety j all you can do, is, to take 
 every precaution in your power when you purchase. Be 
 very particular, very full and clear, in the order you give 
 for seed. Know the seedsman well, if possible. Speak 
 to him yourself on the subject, if you can -, and, in short, 
 take every precaution in your power, in order to avoid 
 
IV. 
 
 CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 the mortifications like those of having one sort of cab* 
 bage when you expected another, and of having rape 
 when you expected turnips or ruta baga. 
 
 TRUE SEED. 
 
 65. But, besides the kind, there is the genuineness to be 
 considered. For instance, you want sugar-loaf cabbage. 
 The seed you sow may be cabbage : it may, too, be sugar- 
 loaf, or more that than any thing else : but, still, it may 
 not be true to its kind. It may have become degenerate j 
 it may have become mixed, or crossed, in generating. And 
 thus, the plants may very much disappoint you. True 
 seed is a great thing ; for, not only the time of the crop 
 coming in ; but the quantity and quality of it greatly de- 
 pend upon the trueness of the seed. You will have plants 
 to be sure , that is to say, you will have something grow j 
 but you will not, if the seed be not true, have the thing 
 you want. 
 
 66. To insure truth in seed, you must, if you purchase, 
 take all the precautions recommended as to sort of seed. 
 It will be seen presently, that, to save true seed yourself, 
 is by no means an easy matter. And, therefore, you must 
 sometimes purchase. Find a seedsman that does not de- 
 ceive you, and stick to him. But, observe, that no 
 seedsman can always be sure. He cannot raise all his 
 seeds himself. He must trust to others. Of course, he 
 may, himself, be deceived. Some kinds of seed will keep 
 good many years ; and, therefore, when you find that 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChAP. 
 
 you have got some very true seed of any sort, get some 
 more of it -, get as much as will last you for the number 
 of years that such seed will keep ; and, to know how 
 many years the seeds of garden plants will keep, see 
 paragraph 150. 
 
 SOUNDNESS OF SEED. 
 
 67. Seed may be of the right sort; it may be true to 
 its sort ; and yet, if it be unsound^ it will not grow, and, 
 of course, is a great deal worse than useless, because the 
 sowing of it occasions loss of time, loss of cost of seed^ 
 loss of use of land, and loss of labour, to say nothing 
 about the disappointment and mortification. Here, again, 
 if you purchase, you must rely on the seedsman j and, 
 therefore, all the aforementioned precautions are neces- 
 sary as to this point also. In this case (especially if the 
 sowing be extensive) the injury may be very great 3 and, 
 there is no redress. If a man sell you one sort of seed for 
 another -, or, if he sell you untrue seed ; the l&w will give 
 you redress to the full extent of the injury proved 3 and 
 the proof can be produced. But, if the seed does not 
 come up, what proof have you ? You may prove the 
 sowing; but, who is to prove, that the seed was not 
 chilled or scorched, in the ground ? That it was not eaten 
 by insects there ? That it was not destroyed in coming 
 up, or in germinating ? 
 
 68. There are, however, means of ascertaining, whether 
 seed be sound, or not, before you sow it in the ground. I 
 
IV. CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 know of no seed, which, if sound and really ^ood, will 
 not sink in water. The unsoundness of seed arises from 
 several causes. Unripeness, blight, mouldiness, and age, are 
 the most frequent of these causes. The two first, if ex- 
 cessive, prevent the seed from ever having the germinat- 
 ing quality in them. Mouldiness arises from the seed 
 being kept in a damp place, or from its having heated. 
 When dried again it becomes light, ^ge will cause the 
 germinating quality to evaporate 3 though, where there 
 is a great proportion of oil in the seed, this quality will 
 remain in it for many years, as will be seen by-and-by. 
 
 69. The way to try seed is this. Put a small quantity 
 of it in luke-warm warm, and let the water be four or 
 five inches deep. A mug, or basin, will do, but a large 
 tumbler glass is best ; for then you can see the bottom as 
 well as top. Some seeds, such as those of cabbage, 
 radish, and turnip, will, if good, go to the bottom at 
 once. Cucumber, melon, lettuce, endive, and many 
 others, require a few minutes. Parsnip and carrot, and 
 all the winged seeds, require to be worked by your fingers 
 in a little water, and well wetted, before you put them 
 into the glass j and the carrot should be rubbed, so as to 
 get off part of the hairs, which would otherwise act, as 
 the feathers do as to a duck. The seed of beet and 
 mangel wurzel are in a case or shell. The rough things 
 that we sow are not the seeds, but the cases in which the 
 seeds are contained, each case containing from one to Jive 
 seeds. Therefore the trial by water is not, as to these 
 two seeds, conclusive, though if the seed be very good j 
 if there be four or five in a case, shell and all will sink in 
 water, after being in the glass an hour. And, as it is a 
 
PROPAGATION AND CflAP, 
 
 matter of such great importance, that every seed should 
 grow in a case where the plants stand so far apart j as 
 gaps in rows of beet and mangel wurzel are so very in- 
 jurious, the best way is to reject all seed that will not 
 sink, case and all, after being put into warm water, and 
 remaining there an hour. 
 
 70. But, seeds of all sorts are, sometimes, if not 
 always, part sound and part unsound j and, as the former 
 is not to be rejected on account of the latter, the pro- 
 portion of each should be ascertained, if a separation be 
 not made. Count, then, a hundred seeds, taken pro- 
 miscuously, and put them into water as before directed. 
 If fifty sink and fifty swim, half your seed is bad, and 
 half good ; and so, in proportion, as to other numbers of 
 sinkers and swimmers. There may be plants, the sound 
 seeds of which will not sink ,- but I know of none. If it 
 be found in any instance, they would, I think, be found 
 in those of the tulip-tree, the ash, the birch, and the 
 parsnip, all of which are furnished with so large a portion 
 of wing. Yet all these, if sound, will sink, if put into 
 warm water, with the wet worked a little into the wings 
 first. 
 
 71 . There is, however, another way of ascertaining this 
 important fact, the soundness, or unsoundness of seed ; 
 and that is, by sowing them. If you have a hot-bed (or, 
 if not, how easy to make one for a hand-glass ?), put a 
 hundred seeds, taken as before directed, sow them in a 
 flower-pot, and plunge the pot in the earth, under the 
 glass, in the hot-bed, or hand-glass. The climate, under 
 the glass, is warm ,• and a very few days will tell you what 
 
 
IV. CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 proportion of your seed is sound. But there is this to be 
 said j that, with strong heat under, and with such com- 
 plete protection above, seeds may come up that would not 
 come up in the open ground. There may be enough of 
 the germinating principle to cause vegetation in a hot- 
 bed, and not enough to cause it in the open air and cold 
 ground. Therefore I incline to the opinion that we 
 should try seeds as our ancestors tried Witches -, not by 
 fire, but by water ; and that, following up their practice, 
 we should reprobate and destroy all that do not readily 
 sink. 
 
 SAVING AND PRESERVING SEED. 
 
 72. This is a most important branch of the Gardener's 
 business. There are rules applicable to particular plants. 
 Those will be given in their proper places. It is my 
 business here to speak of such as are applicable to all 
 plants. 
 
 73. First, as to the saving of seed, the truest plants 
 should be selected j that is to say, such as are of the most 
 perfect shape and quality. In the Cabbage we seek small 
 stem, well-formed loaf, few spare, or loose, leaves j in 
 the turnip, large bulb, small neck, slender-stalked leaves, 
 solid flesh, or pulp j in the radish, high colour (if red 
 or scarlet), small neck, few and short leaves, and long 
 top. The marks of perfection are well known, and none 
 but perfect plants should be saved for seed. The case is 
 somewhat diflferent as to plants, which are some male and 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChAP. 
 
 others female, but, these present exceptions to be noticed 
 under the names of such plants. 
 
 74. Of plants, the early coming of which is a circum- 
 stance of importance, the very earliest should be chosen 
 for seed 5 for, they will almost always be found to include 
 the highest degree of perfection in other respects. They 
 should have great pains taken with them ; the soil and 
 situation should be good j and they should be carefully 
 cultivated, during the time that they are carrying on their 
 seed to perfection. 
 
 75. But, effectual means must be taken to prevent a 
 mixing of the sorts, or, to speak in the language of 
 farmers, a crossing of the breeds. There can be no cross 
 between the sheep and the dog : but there can be between 
 the dog and the wolf ; and, we daily see it, between the 
 greyhound and the hound ^ each valuable when true to his 
 kind J and a cross between the two, fit for nothing but 
 the rope: a word which, on this occasion, I use, in pre- 
 ference to that of halter, out of respect for the modern 
 laws and usages of my country. 
 
 76. There can be no cross between a cabbage and a 
 carrot ; but there can be, between a cabbage and a turnip ; 
 between a cabbage and a cauliflower nothing is more com- 
 mon 3 and, as to the different sorts of cabbages, they will 
 produce crosses, presenting twenty, and perhaps a thou- 
 sand, degrees, from the Early York to the Savoy. Turnips 
 will mix with radishes and ruta-baga; all these with 
 rape ; the result will mix with cabbages and cauliflowers ; 
 so that, if nothing were done to preserve plants true to 
 
IV. CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 their kind, our gardens would soon present us with little 
 besides mere herbage. 
 
 77. As to the causes, I will not here dive into them. 
 Suffice itj that we know, that sorts will mix, when seed- 
 plants of the same tribe stand near each other 3 and we 
 may easily suppose, that this may probably take place 
 though the plants stand at a considerable distance apart, 
 since I have, in the case of my Indian corn, given proof 
 of mixture, when the plants were three hundred yards 
 from each other. What must be the consequence, 
 then, of saving seed from cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, 
 squashes, and gourds, all growing in the same garden at 
 the same time ? To save the seed of two sorts of any 
 tribe, in the same garden, in the same year, ought not to 
 be attempted j and this it is, that makes it difficult for 
 any one man to raise all sorts of seeds good and time. 
 
 78. However, some may be saved by every one who 
 has a garden -, and when raised, they ought to be 
 carefully preserved. They are best preserved in the pod, 
 or on the stalks. Seeds of many sorts will be perfectly 
 good to the age of eight or ten years, if kept in the pod 
 or on the stalks, which seeds, if threshed, will be good 
 for little at the end of three years or less. However, to 
 keep seeds, without threshing them out, is seldom con- 
 venient, often impracticable, and always exposes them to 
 injury from mice and rats, and from various other ene- 
 mies, of which, however, the greatest is carelessness. 
 Therefore, the best way is, except for things that are 
 very curious, and that lie in a small compass, to thresh 
 out all seeds. 
 
CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. ChAP. 
 
 79. They should stand till perfectly ripe, if possible. 
 They should be cut, or pulled, or gathered, when it 
 is dry j and, they should, if possible, be dry as dry can 
 be, before they are threshed out. If, when threshed, any 
 moisture remain about them, they should be placed in the 
 sun J or, near a fire in a dry room -, and, when quite dry, 
 should be put into bags, and hung up against a very dry 
 wall, or dry boards, where they will by no accident get 
 damp. The best place is some room, or place, where 
 there is, occasionally at least, ajire kept in winter, 
 
 80. Thus preserved, kept from open air and from damp, 
 the seeds of vegetables will keep sound and good for 
 sowing for the number of years stated in the following 
 list J to which the reader will particularly attend. Some 
 of the seeds in this list will keep, sometimes, a year 
 longer, if very well saved and very well preserved, 
 and especially if closely kept from exposure to the open 
 air. But, to lose a crop from unsoundness of seed is a 
 sad thing, and, it is indeed, negligence wholly inex- 
 cusable to sow seed of the soundness of which we are 
 not certain. 
 
IV. 
 
 CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 YEARS 
 
 Artichoke - - - 3 
 
 Asparagus - - - 4 
 
 Balm 2 
 
 Basil 2 
 
 Bean ----- 1 
 
 Bean (Kidney) - - I 
 
 Beet 10 
 
 Borage - - - - 4 
 
 Broccoli - - - - 4 
 
 Burnet - - - - 6* 
 
 Cabbage - - - - 4 
 
 Calabash - - - - 7 
 
 Cale 4 
 
 Cale (Sea) - - - 3 
 
 Camomile - - - 2 
 
 Capsicum - - - 2 
 
 Caraway - - - - 4 
 
 Carrot - - _ - 1 
 
 Cauliflower - - - 4 
 Celery • - - -10 
 
 Chervil - - - - 6 
 
 Cives 3 
 
 Corn 3 
 
 Corn -Salad - - - 2 
 
 Coriander - - - 3 
 
 Cress 2 
 
 Cucumber - - - 10 
 
 Dandelion - - - 10 
 
 Dock - - - - 1 
 
 Endive - - - - 4 
 
 Fennel - - - - 5 
 
 Garlick - - - - 3 
 
 Gourd - - - - 10 
 
 Hop 2 
 
 'Horse-Radish - - 4 
 
 Hyssop - - - - 6 
 
 Jerusalem Artichoke 3 
 
 Lavender - - - 2 
 
 Leek - - - ^ - 2 
 
 YEARS 
 
 Lettuce - - - - 3 
 
 Mangel Wurzel - - 10 
 
 Marjoram - - - 4 
 
 Marigold - - - 3 
 
 Melon - - - - 10 
 
 Mint 4 
 
 Mustard - - - - 4 
 
 Nasturtium - - - 2 
 
 Onion - - - - 2 
 
 Parsley - - - - 6 
 
 Parsnip - - - - 1 
 
 Pea 1 
 
 Pennyroyal - - - 2 
 
 Potato - - - - 3 
 
 Pumpkin - - - - lO 
 
 Purslane - - - - 2 
 
 Radish - - - - 2 
 
 Rampion - - - - 2 
 
 Rape ----- 4 
 
 Rhubarb - - - - 1 
 
 Rosemary - - - 3 
 
 Rue ----- 3 
 
 Ruta-Baga - - - 4 
 
 Salsify ----- 2 
 
 Samphire - - - 3 
 
 Savory - - - - 2 
 
 Scorzenera - - - 2 
 
 Shalot - - - - 4 
 
 Skirret - - - - 4 
 
 Sorrel - - - - 7 
 
 Spinage - - - - 4 
 
 Squash - - - - 10 
 
 Tansy . . - - 3 
 
 Tarragon - - - 4 
 
 Thyme - - - - 2 
 
 Tomatum - - - 2 
 
 Turnip - - - - 4 
 
 ''IV^ormwood - - - 2 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChAP, 
 
 SI. Notwithstanding this list, I til ways sow new seed 
 in preference to old, if, in all other respects, I know the 
 new to be equal to the old. And, as 'to the notion, that 
 seeds can be the better for being old, even more than a 
 year old, I hold it to be monstrously absurd : and this 
 upinion I give as the result of long experience, most at- 
 tentive observation, and numerous experiments made for 
 the express purpose of ascertaining the fact. 
 
 S'i. Yet, it is a received opinion, a thing taken for 
 granted, an axiom in horticulture, that melon seed is 
 the better for being old. Mr. Marshall says, that 
 it ought to be " about four years old, though some 
 prefer it much older.'' And he afterwards observes, 
 that *' if new seed only can be had, it " should be 
 carried a week or two in the breeches-pocket, ''to 
 dry away some of the more watery particles ! '* If 
 age be a recommendation in rules as well as in melon- 
 seed, this rule has it ; for, English authors published it, 
 and French authors laughed at it, more than a century 
 past ! 
 
 83. Those who can afford to have melons raised in 
 their gardens, can afford to keep a conjuror to raise 
 them ; and a conjuror will hardly condescend to follow 
 common sense in his practice. This would be lowering 
 the profession in the eyes of the vulgar ; and, which 
 would be very dangerous, in the eyes of his employer. 
 However, a great deal of this stuj^ is traditionary j and 
 how are we to find the conscience to blame a gardener 
 for errors inculcated by gentlemen of erudition ! 
 
V. KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS, ARTICHpRE. 
 
 » 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Kitchen-garden Plants, arranged in Alphabetical order, with 
 Directions relative to the Propagation and Cultivation of 
 each sort. 
 
 118. The plants which are cultivated in the kitchen - 
 garden are either such as are for food, or for medicinal 
 purposes. The former are generally called vegetables, 
 and the latter, herbs ; and then there are pot-herbs and 
 medicinal herbs, which, altogether, forms a strange 
 jumble and inconsistency j every thing being a vegetable 
 that grows out of the earth, from a blade of grass to an 
 oak-tree. The best and most consistent way, therefore, 
 is to give the name of Kitchen-garden plants to all the 
 things grown in the kitchen-garden, except fruits, which 
 will have a distinct Chapter allotted to themselves. The 
 alphabetical order is also the best, because each article 
 is referred to with so much convenience. The reader will 
 please to bear in mind what has been said in the fore- 
 going Chapter with regard to propagation and cultivation 
 in general ; that Chapter being written for the express 
 purpose of preventing the necessity of repeating, under 
 every particular article, directions for selecting the sorts, 
 for saving and preserving the seed, for sowing, for trans- 
 planting and for after cultivation. The rules there laid 
 down are applicable to all kitchen-garden plants ; some 
 additional rules given in this Chapter, will apply to each 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 plant respectively. After this preface, I begin the list of 
 kitchen -garden plants in the manner before described. 
 
 119. ARTICHOKE.— This plant is propagated either 
 from seed or from offsets. If from the former, sow the 
 seed in rows a foot apart, in the month of March -, thin 
 the plants to a foot apart as soon as they are an inch 
 high ; keep them cleanly weeded, and the ground moved, 
 now-and-then, during the summer 3 and, in the autumn, 
 they will be large enough to plant out where they are to 
 stand and to bear. They are things that require a good 
 deal of room, and a very rich soil. Dung, which would 
 be mischievous in some cases, can do no harm here. The 
 ground ought to be fresh dug in the month of October, 
 the plants taken up, and the points of the roots tipped 
 with a sharp knife. They should be planted in clumps, 
 at three feet apart in the row of clumps, and the rows 
 should be about five feet apart. Each clump should have 
 four good plants in it, and these should be v^'ell fastened 
 in the ground, each plant standing at about nine inches 
 from the other. When winter comes on, if hard frosts 
 come, the clumps should be covered pretty thickly with 
 litter, which, however, should be taken off again as soon 
 as the frost is out of the ground ^ but no plant which has 
 been covered to be protected from the frost, should be 
 uncovered, and the sun left to come upon the ground 
 where it stands, before t!')e thaw has completely taken 
 place. In the spring, the ground about the clumps 
 should be moved up a little with a fork, and nicely broken 
 in dry weather, in March or April. These plants will 
 bear fruit the first year j and, if properly managed, will 
 continue to bear for a great many years. When their 
 
IV. CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 84. I cannot dismiss this part of my subject without 
 once more cautioning the reader against the danger of 
 unripe seed. In cases where winter overtakes you before 
 your seed be quite ripe, the best way is to pull up the 
 plants and hang them by the heels in a dry airy place, till 
 all green depart from the stalks, and until they be quite 
 dry, and wholly rid of juice. Even yi hot weather, when 
 the seed would drop out, if the plants were left stand- 
 ing, pull, or cut the plants, and lay them on a cloth in 
 the Sim, till the seed be all ready to fall out 3 for, if 
 forced from the pod, the seed is never so good. Seeds 
 will grow if gathered when they are green as grass, and 
 afterwards dried in the sun ; but they do not produce 
 plants like those coming from ripe seed. I tried, some 
 years ago, fifty grains of wheat, gathered green, against 
 fifty gathered ripe. Not only were the plants of the 
 former feeble, when compared with the latter j not only 
 was the produce of the former two-thirds less than 
 that of the latter j but even the quality of the grain was 
 not half so good. Many of the ears had smut, whicli was 
 not the case with those that came from the ripened seed, 
 tliough the land and the cultivation were, in both cases, 
 the same. 
 
 SOWING. 
 
 85. The first thing, relating to sowing, is, the prepara- 
 tion of the ground. It may be more or less Jine, accord- 
 ing to the sort of seed to be sown. Peas and beans do 
 not, of course, require the earth so fine as small seeds 
 do. But, still, the finer the better for every thing ; for, it 
 
 E 2 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChAP. 
 
 is best if the seed be actually pressed by the earth in 
 every part ; and many seeds, if not all, are best situated 
 when the earth is trodden down upon them, 
 
 86. Of course the ground should be good,, either in 
 itself, or made good by manure of some sort. But, in all 
 cases, the ground should he fresh ; that is to say, it 
 should be dug just before the act of sowing, in order that 
 the seeds may have the full benefit of the fermentation, 
 that takes place upon every moving of the earth. 
 
 87. Never sow when the ground is tyei ; nor, indeed, 
 if it can be avoided, perform any other act with, or on, 
 the ground of a garden. If you dig ground in wet 
 weather, you make a sort of mortar of it : it binds when 
 the sun or wind dries it. The fermentation does not 
 take place : and it becomes unfavourable to vegetation, 
 especially if the ground be, in the smallest degree, stiff 
 in its nature. It is even desirable, that wet should not 
 come for some days after ground hiis been moved ; for, 
 if the wet come before the ground be drij at top, the earth 
 will run together, and will become bound at top. Sow, 
 therefore, if possible, in dry weather, but in freshly- 
 moved ground. 
 
 88. The season for sowing will, of course, find a place 
 under the names of the respective plants ; and, I do 
 hope, that it is unnecessary for me to say, that sowing 
 according to the Moon is wholly absurd and ridiculous ; 
 and that it arose solely out of the circumstance, that our 
 forefathers, who could not read, had neither Almanack 
 nor Calendar to guide them, and who counted by Moons 
 
IV. CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 and Festivals, instead of by Months, and days of 
 ^Afonths. 
 
 • 89. As to the act of sowing, the distances and depths 
 differ with different plants, and these will, of course, be 
 pointed out under the names of those different plants ; 
 but, one thing is common to all seeds j and that is, that 
 they should be sown in rows or drills ; for, unless they be 
 sown in this way, all is uncertainty. The distribution of 
 the seed is unequal ; the covering is of unequal depth j 
 and, when the plants come up in company with the 
 weeds, the difficulty of ridding the ground of the latter, 
 without destroying the former, is very great indeed, and 
 attended with ten times the labour. Plants, in their ear- 
 liest state, generally require to be thinned ,- which cannot 
 be done with regularity, unless they stand in rows ; and, 
 as to every future operation, how easy is the labour in 
 the one case, and how hard in the other ! It is of great 
 advantage to almost all plants, to move the ground some- 
 what deep while they are growing j but, how is this to 
 be done, unless they stand in rows ? If they be dispersed 
 promiscuously over the ground, to perform this operation 
 is next to impossible, 
 
 90. The great obstacle to the following of a method 
 so obviously advantageous, is, the trouble. To draw lines 
 for peas and beans is not deemed troublesome ; but, to 
 do this for radishes, onions, carrots, lettuces, beds of 
 cabbages, and other small seeds, is regarded as tedious. 
 When we consider the saving of trouble afterwards, this 
 trouble is really nothing, even if the drills were drawn 
 one at a time by a line or rule ; but, this need not be 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChAK 
 
 the case -, for, a very cheap and simple tool does the 
 business with as much quickness as sowing at random. 
 
 91, Suppose there be a bed of onions to be sown. I 
 make my drills in this way. 1 have what I call a Driller, 
 which is a rake six feet long in the head. This head is 
 made of oak, 2 inches by 2j -, and has teeth in it at eight 
 inches asunder, each tooth being about six inches long, 
 and an inch in diameter at the head, and is pointed a 
 little at the end that meets the ground. This gives nbie 
 teeth, there being four inches over at each end of the 
 head. In this head, there is a handle fixed of about six 
 feet long. When my ground is prepared, raked nice and 
 smooth, and cleaned from stones and clods, I begin at 
 the left hand end of the bed, and draw across it nine rows 
 at once. I then proceed, taking care to keep the left hand 
 tooth of the Driller in the right hand drill that has just 
 been made j so that now I make but eight new drills, 
 because (for a guide) the left hand tooth goes this time 
 in the drill, which was before made by the right hand 
 tooth. Thus, at every draw, I make eight drills. And, 
 in this way, a pretty long bed is formed into nice, straight 
 drills, in a very few minutes. The sowing, after this, is 
 done with truth, and the depth of the covering must be 
 alike for all the seeds. If it be parsnips or carrots, which 
 require a wider distance between the rows j or, cabbage 
 plants, which, as they are to stand only for a while, do 
 not require distances so wide : in these cases, other 
 Drillers may be made. 
 
 92. In the case of large pieces of ground, a hand^ Driller 
 is not sufficient. Yet, if the land be ploughed, furrows 
 
IV. CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 ^■fright make the paths, the harrow might smooth the 
 ground, and the hand-driller might be used for onions, 
 or for any thing else. However, what I did, in America, 
 for Kidney Beans, was this. 1 had a roller drawn by an 
 ox, or a horse. The roller was about eight inches in 
 diameter, and ten feet long. To that part of the frame 
 of the roller, which projects, or hangs over, beyond the 
 roller behind, I attached, by means of two j^eces of wood 
 and two pins, a bar ten feet long. Into this bar I put ten 
 l^feth; and near the middle of the bar two handles. The 
 
 ■poller being put in motion, breaks all the clods that the 
 iiarrow has left, draws after it the ten teeth, and the ten 
 teeth make ten drills, as deep, or as shallow, as the man 
 chooses who follows the roller, holding the two handles 
 of the bar. The two pieces of wood, which connect the 
 bar with the hinder projecting part of the frame of the 
 roller, work on the pins, so as to let the bar up and down, 
 as occasion may require ; and, of course, while the roller 
 is turning, at the end, the bar, with the teeth in it, is 
 raised from the around. 
 
 t- 
 
 93. Thus are ten drills made by an ox, in about Jive 
 minutes, which would perhaps require a man more than a 
 day to make with a hoe. In short, an ox, or a horse, and 
 a man and a boy, will do twelve acres in a day with ease. 
 And to draw the drills with a hoe would require forty- 
 eight men at the least ; for, there is the line to be at 
 work as well as the hoe. Wheat, and even peas, are in 
 the fields, drilled by machines 5 but beans cannot, and 
 especially kidney beans. Drills must be made : and, 
 where they are cultivated on a large scale, how tedious 
 and expensive must be the operation to make the drills. 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChAP. 
 
 by line and hoe ! When the drills are made, the beans 
 are laid in at proper distances, then covered with a light 
 harrow ,• and after all comes the roller, with the teeth 
 lifted up of course ; and all is smooth and neat. The ex- 
 pense of such an apparatus is^ really, nothing worth 
 notice. , 
 
 94. In order to render the march of the ox straight, 
 my ground was ploughed into lands, one of which took 
 the ten rows of kidney-beans ', so that the ox had only 
 to be kept straight along upon the middle of the land. 
 And, in order, to have the lands ^^, not arched at all, the 
 ground was ploughed twice in this shape, which brought 
 the middle of the lands where the furrows were before. 
 If, however, the ground had been flat-ploughed, without 
 any furrow, there would have been no difficulty. I should 
 have started on a straight side, or on the straightest side, 
 leaving out any crook or angle that there might have 
 been. I should have taken two distinct objects, found, 
 or placed, beyond the end of the work, and should have 
 directed the head of the ox in a line with those two ob- 
 jects. Before I started, I should have measured ofif the 
 width to find where the ox ought to come to again, and 
 then have fixed two objects to direct his coming back. I 
 should have done this at each end, till the piece had been 
 finished. 
 
 95. When the seeds, in the garden-sowing, are pro- 
 perly, and at suitable distances, placed in the drills, rake 
 the ground, and, in all cases, tread it iviih your feet, 
 unless it be very moist. Then rake it slightly again ; for 
 all seeds grow best when the earth is pressed closely 
 
IV» CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 about them. VVhen the plants come up, thin them, keep 
 them clear of weeds, and attend to the directions given 
 under the names of the several plants. 
 
 TRANSPLANTING, 
 
 96. The weather for transplanting, is the same as that 
 for sowing. If you do this work in wet weather, or when 
 the ground is wet, the work cannot be well done. It is 
 no matter what the plant is, whether it be a cucumber 
 plant, or an oak-tree. It has been observed, as to seeds, 
 that they like the earth to touch them in every part, and 
 to lie close about them. It is the same with roots. One 
 half of the bad growth that we see in orchards, arises 
 from negligence in the planting : from tumbling the earth 
 carelessly in upon the roots. The earth should be as 
 Jim as possible 5 for, if it be not, part of the roots will 
 
 remain untouched by the earth. If the ground be wet, it 
 cannot be fine. And, if mixed wet, it will remain in a 
 «ort of mortar, and will cling and bind together, and will 
 leave more or less of cracks, when it become dry, 
 
 97. If possible, therefore, transplant when the ground 
 is not wet j but, here again, as in the case of sowing, 
 let it be dug, or deeply moved, and well broken, imme- 
 diately before you transplant into it. There is a fermen- 
 tation that takes place immediately after moving, and a 
 dew arises, which did not arise before. These greatly ex- 
 ceed, in power of causing the plant to strike, any thing to be 
 obtained by rain on the plants at the time of planting 
 
 £ 5 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChaP. 
 
 or by planting in wet earth. Cabbages and Ruta Ba^ 
 (or Swedish Turnip) I have proved, in innumerable in-i 
 stances, will, if planted in freshly-moved earth, under a 
 burning sun, be a great deal finer than those planted in 
 wet ground, or during rain. The causes are explained 
 in the foregoing paragraph ; and there never was a 
 greater, though a most popular error, than that of waiting 
 for a shoioer, in order to set about the work of transplant- 
 ing. In all the books that I.have read, without a single 
 exception : in the English Gardening books j in the 
 English Farmer's Dictionary, and many other works on 
 English husbandry ; in the Encyclopaedia ; in short, in 
 all the books on husbandry and on gardening that I have 
 ever read, English or French, this transplanting in 
 showery weather is recommended. 
 
 98. If you transplant in hot weather, the leaves of the 
 plants will be scorched 5 but the hearts will live j and 
 the heat, assisting the fermentation, will produce new 
 roots in twenty-four hours, and new leaves in a few days. 
 Then it is that you see fine vegetation come on. If you 
 plant in wet, that wet must be followed by dry; the 
 earth, from being moved in wet, contracts the mortary 
 nature j hardens first, and then cracks j and the plants 
 will stand in a stunted state, till the ground be moved 
 about them in dry weather. If I could have my wish in 
 the planting of a piece of cabbages, ruta baga, lettuces, 
 jor almost any thing, I would find the ground perfectly 
 dry at top j I would have it dug deeply j plant imme- 
 diately; and have no rain for three or four days. I 
 would prefer no rain for a month, to rain at the time of 
 planting. 
 
I v. CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 99. This is a matter of primary importance. How 
 many crops are lost by the waiting for a shower ! And, 
 when the shower comes, the ground is either not dug, or 
 it has been dug for some time, and the benefit of the 
 fermentation is wholly lost, 
 
 100. However, there are some very tender plants -, 
 plants so soft and juicy as to be absolutely burnt up, and 
 totally destroyed, stems and all, in a hot sun, in a few 
 hours. These, which lie in a small compass, must be 
 shaded at least, if not watered, upon their removal 3 a 
 more particular notice of which will be taken as we pro- 
 ceed in the Lists of the Plants. 
 
 101. In the act of transplanting, the main things are to 
 take care not to bury the heart of the plant j and to take 
 care that the earth be well pressed about the point of Ihe 
 root of the plant. To press the earth very closely about 
 the stem of the plant is of little use, if you leave the point 
 of the root loose. I beg tha,t this may be borne in mind j 
 for the growth, and even the life of the plant, depend on 
 great care as to this particular. See Cabbage, paragraph 
 129, for a minute description of the ac< of planting. 
 
 102. As to propagation by cuttings, slips, layers, and 
 offsets, it will be spoken of under the names of the seve- 
 ral plants usually propagated in any of those ways. 
 Cuttings are pieces cut off from branches of trees and 
 plants. Slips are branches pulled off, and slipped down 
 at a joint. Layers are branches left on the plant or tree, 
 and bent down to the ground, and fastened, with earth 
 laid upon the part between the plant and the top of the 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChAP. 
 
 branch. Offsets are parts of the root and plant separated 
 from the main root. 
 
 CULTIVATION. 
 
 103. Here, as in the foregoing parts of this Chapter, 
 I propose to speak only of what is of general application, 
 in order to save the room that would be necessary to re- 
 peat instructions for cultivation under the names of the 
 several plants. 
 
 104. The ground being good, and the sowing, or plant- 
 ing, having been properly performed, the next thing is 
 the after -management, which is usually called the culti- 
 
 vatiou. 
 
 105. If the subject be from seed, the first thing is to 
 see that the plants stand at a proper distance from each 
 other 'j because, if left too close, they cannot come to 
 good. Let them also be thinned early 3 for, even while 
 in seed-leaf, they injure each other. Carrots, parsnips, 
 lettuces, every thing, ought to be thinned in the seed- 
 leaf. 
 
 106. Hoe, or weed, immediately j and, let me observe 
 here, once for all, that weeds never ought to be suffered 
 to get to any size either in field or garden, and especially 
 in the latter. 
 
 107. But, besides the act of killing weeds, cultivation 
 means moving the earth betweeh the plants while growing. 
 
IV. CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 This assists (hem in their growth : it feeds them : it 
 raises food for their roots to live upon. A nmrejlat- 
 hoeing does nothing but keep down the weeds. The 
 lioeing when the plants are become stout, should be 
 deep J and, in general, with a hoe that has spanes, instead 
 of a mere flat plate. In short, a sort of prong in the 
 posture of a hoe. And the spane of this prong-hoe may 
 be longer, or shorter, according to the nature of the 
 crop to be hoed. Deep-hoeing is enough in some cases j 
 but, in others, digging is necessary to produce a fine and 
 full crop. If any body will have a piece of cabbages, 
 and will dig between the rows of one half of them twice 
 during their growth, and let the other half of the piece 
 have nothing but a flat-hoeing, that person will find that 
 the haif which has been digged between, will, when the 
 crop is ripe, weigh nearly, if not quite, twice as much as 
 the other half. 
 
 108. It may appear, that, to dig thus amongst growing 
 plants is to cut oflF, or tear off, their roots, of which the 
 ground is full. This is really the case, and this does 
 great good 3 for the roots, thus cut asunder, shoot -again 
 from the plant's side, find new food, and send, instantly, 
 fresh vigour to the plant. The effect of this tillage is 
 quite surprising. We are hardly aware of its power in 
 producing vegetation ; and we are still less aware of the 
 distance, to which the roots of plants extend in every 
 direction. 
 
 109. Mr. TuU, the father of the drill-husbandry, 
 gives the following account of the manner in which he 
 discovered the distance to which certain roots extend. 
 
PROPAGATION AND ClIAP. 
 
 I should observe here, that he was led to think of the 
 drilling of crops in the fields of England, from having, 
 when in France^ observed the effects of inter-tillage on 
 the vines, in the vineyards. If he had visited America 
 instead of France, he vrould have seen the effects of that 
 tillage, in a still more striking light, on plants in the 
 Indian corn-fields j for, he would have seen those plants 
 spindling, yellow, actually perishing, to-day, for want of 
 ploughing ; and, in four days after a good, deep, clean, 
 and careful ploughing, especially in hot weather, he 
 would have seen them wholly change their colour, become 
 of a bright and beautiful green, bending their leaves 
 over the intervals, and growing at the rate of four inches 
 in the twenty-four hours. 
 
 110. The passage, to which I have alluded, is of so 
 interesting a nature, and relates to a matter of so much 
 importance, that I shall insert it entire, and also the 
 plate made use of by Mr. TuU to illustrate his meaning. 
 I shall not, as so many others have, take the thoughts, 
 and send them forth as my own ; nor, like Mr. John 
 Christian Curwen, a Member of Parliament, steal them 
 from TuLL, and give them, with all the honour belonging 
 to them, to a Bishop. 
 
 111. ''J Method how to find the distance to which roots 
 extended horizontally. A piece, or plot, dug and made 
 ' fine, in whole hard ground, as in Plate II. Fig. 1 . 
 
 <c 
 
 " The end A. 2 feet, the end B. 12 feet, the length of 
 the piece 20 yards ; the figures in the middle of it are 
 20 turnips, sown early, and well hoed. The manner of 
 
IV. 
 
 CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 I 
 
t»ROPAGATION AND ChAP. 
 
 " this hoeing must be, at first, near the plants, with a 
 *' spade, and each time afterwards, a foot distance, till 
 *' the earth be once well dug j and, if weeds appear 
 *' where it has been so dug, hoe them out shallow with 
 *' the hand-hoe. But, dig all the piece next the out-lines 
 *' deep every time, that it may be the finer for the roots 
 " to enter, when they are permitted to come thither. If 
 " the turnips be all bigger, as they stand nearer to the 
 *' end B, it is a proof that they all extend to the outside 
 *' of the piece, and the Turnip 20, will appear to draw 
 ** nourishment from six foot distance from its centre. But 
 *' if the Turnips 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, acquire no greater 
 " bulk than the Turnip 15, it will be clear, that their 
 ** roots extend no farther than those of the Turnip 15 
 *' does J which is about four foot. By this method the 
 " distance of the extent of roots of any plant, may be 
 *' discovered. — There is also another way to find the 
 ** length of roots, by making a long narrow trench, at the 
 " distance you expect they will extend to, and fill it 
 *' with salt J if the plant be killed by the salt, it is 
 *' certain that some of the roots enter it. 
 
 112. " What put me upon trying this method, was an 
 *' observation of two lands, or ridges, (see Platell. Fig.*i.) 
 " drilleii with Turnips in rows, a foot asunder, and very 
 *' even in them ; the ground, at both ends and one side, 
 *' was hard and unploughed. The Turnips not being 
 *' hoed were very poor, small, and yellow, except the 
 ** three outside rows, bed, which stood next to the land 
 ** (or ridge) E, which land, being ploughed and harrowed, 
 ** at the time the land A ought to have been hoed, gave a 
 '* dark flourishing colour to these three rows ; and the 
 
IV, CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 " Turnips in the row d, which stood farthest off from the 
 " new ploughed land E, received so much benefit from 
 " it, as to grow twice as big as any of the more distant 
 ** rows. The row c being a foot nearer to the new 
 " ploughed land, became twice as large as those in d, 
 " but the row 6, which was next to the land E, grew 
 " much larger yet. F is a piece of hard whole ground, 
 *' of about two perch in length, and about two or three 
 " foot broad, lying betwixt those two lands, which had 
 " not been ploughed that year -, it was remarkable that, 
 " during the length of this interjacent hard ground, the 
 " rows bed were as small and yellow as any in the land. 
 " The Turnips in the row d, about three foot distant from 
 " the land E, receiving a double increase, proves they 
 *' had as much nourishment from the land E as from the 
 " land A, wherein they stood, which nourishment was 
 " brought by less than half the number of roots of each 
 " of these Turnips. In their own land they must have 
 *' extended a yard all round, else they could not have 
 " reached the land £, wherein it is probable these few 
 " roots went more than another yard, to give each tur- 
 '* nip as much increase as all the roots had done in 
 ** their own land. Except that it will hereafter appear, 
 " that the new nourishment taken at the extremities of 
 " the roots in the land E, might enable the plants to send 
 " out more new roots in their own land, and receive 
 " something more from thence. The row c being twice as 
 *' big as the row (Z, must be supposed to extend twice as 
 *' far 5 and the row b, four times as far, in proportion as 
 *' it was of a bulk quadruple to the row d." 
 
 lis. Thus, then, it is clear, that tillage amongst grow- 
 
PROPAGATION AND ChAP. 
 
 ing plants is a great thing. Not only is it of great be- 
 nefit to the plants j not only does it greatly augment the 
 amount of the crop, and make it of the best quality j but^ 
 it prepares the ground for another crop. If a summer 
 fallow be good for the land, here is a summer fallow ; if 
 the ploughing between turnips prepare the land for wheat,- 
 the digging between cabbages and other crops will, of 
 course, prepare the land for succeeding crops. 
 
 114. Watering plants, though so strongly recommended 
 in English Gardening books, and so much in practice, is 
 a thing of very doubtful utiUty in any case, and, in most 
 cases, of positive injury. A country often endures present 
 sufifering from long drought ; but, if even all the gar- 
 dens and all the fields could, in such a case, be watered 
 with a watering-pot, I much question whether it would 
 be beneficial even to the crops of the dry season itself. 
 It is not, observe, rain water that you can, one time out 
 of a thousand, water with. And, to nourish plants, the 
 water must be prepared in clouds and mists and dews. 
 Observe this. Besides, when rain comes, the earth is 
 prepared for it by that state of 'the air which precedes 
 rain, and which makes all things damp, and slackens and 
 loosens the earth, and disposes the roots and leaves for 
 the reception of the rain. To pour water, therefore, 
 upon plants, or upon the ground where they are growing, 
 or where seeds are sown, is never of much use, and is 
 generally mischievous j for, the air is dry ; the sun comes 
 immediately and bakes the ground, and vegetation is 
 checked, rather than advanced, by the operation. The 
 best protector against frequent drought is frequent dig- 
 ging ; or, in the fields, ploughing, and always deep. Hence 
 
IV. CULTIVATION IN GENERAL. 
 
 will arise a fermentation and dews. The ground will hav6 
 moisture in it, in spite of all drought, which the hard, un- 
 moved ground, will not. But always dig or plough in 
 dry weather, and, the drier the weather, the deeper you 
 ought to go, and the finer you ought to break the earth. 
 When plants are covered by lights, or are in a house, or are 
 covered with cloths in the night time, they may need 
 watering, and in such cases, must have it given them 
 by hand. 
 
 115. I &hall conclude this Chapter with observing, on 
 what I deem a vulgar error, and an error, too, which 
 sometimes produces inconvenience. It is believed^ and 
 stated, that the ground grows tired, in time, of the same 
 sort of plant ; and that, if it be, year after year, cropped 
 with the same sort of plant, the produce will be small, 
 and the quality inferior to what it was at first. Mr. Tull 
 has most satisfactorily proved, both by fact and argu- 
 ment, that this is not true. And I will add this fact, that 
 Mr. Missing, a barrister, living in the parish of Titchfield, 
 in Hampshire, and who was a most excellent and kind 
 neighbour of mine, has a border' under a south wall, on 
 Avhich he, and his father before him, have grown early 
 peas, every year, for more, now, than fifty years ; and if, at 
 any time, they had been finer than they were every one 
 year of the four or five years that I saw them, they must 
 have been something very extraordinary 3 for, in those 
 years, they were as fine, and as full bearing, as any that 
 I ever saw in England. 
 
 1 16. Before I entirely quitted the subject of Cultivation, 
 there would be a few remarks to be made upon the 
 
PROPAGATION AND CULTIVATION. ChAP. 
 
 means of preventing the depredations of vermin, some of 
 which make their attacks on the seed, others on the roots, 
 others on the stem, others on the leaves and blossoms, and 
 others on the fruit ; but, as I shall have to be very par- 
 ticular on this subject in speaking oi fruits, I defer it till 
 I come to the Chapter on Fruits. 
 
 117. Having now treated of the Situation, Soil, Fencing, 
 and Laying out of Gardens ; on the making and manag- 
 ing of Hot-beds and Green-houses j and having given 
 some directions as to Propagation and Cultivation in 
 general, I next proceed to give Alphabetical Lists of the 
 several sorts of plants, and to speak of the proper treat- 
 ment for each, under the three heads. Vegetables and 
 Herbs ; Fruits; and Flowers. 
 
 
\'. ARTICHOKE. 
 
 roots reach stagnant water, or any soil which they do 
 not like, the plants begin to give out 3 but other- 
 wise, they will keep bearing for a great number of years. 
 The next spring, that is to say, the second spring after 
 having been planted out, you will find that they have 
 sent out great numbers of side-shoots or offsets ; you 
 should, therefore, move the earth away a little round the 
 clump, and take off these offsets, which would otherwise 
 prevent the great bearing of the plant. When you take off 
 these offsets, you will find some very stout,while others-will 
 be very weak ; and, if you want a new plantation, these 
 offsets are as good plants as any j and, if stout, they will 
 bear th€ first year, but, and very convenijently, they will 
 come into bearing after the old plants have done. The 
 artichoke, although so robust a plant, is very sensible of 
 the frost. Therefore, each clump should have the earth 
 drawn up pretty much about it in the fall of the year, 
 but in dry weather if possible, and, in very severe wea- 
 ther, some litter should be laid on the top of each clump, 
 being always taken off as soon as the frost is completely 
 out of the ground. In the spring, the whole of the 
 ground ought to be carefully dug, and the earth levelled 
 down from the sides of the clumps ; the offsets should 
 now be taken off, and the plants left to produce their 
 crop. The rows of plants being five feet apart, affords 
 an opportunity for planting other things between them -j 
 but, this can hardly be done to any great advantage 
 except you be in very great want of room j for, what you 
 gain in this way, you lose by the imperfect culture of the 
 artichokes. They love cool ground, though, not stagnant 
 water at the bottom j and, perhaps, the best situation 
 for them would be under the South side hedge of the 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAF. 
 
 outer garden. One row of clumps along under that 
 hedge, and at three feet from it, would contain fifty 
 clumps, which would, if well cultivated, produce enough 
 for any family in the world. The artichoke is a large, 
 rude and tall thing, and, thus situated, it would not in- 
 tercept the view of prettier crops. If part of that shady 
 hedge were wanted for other things, you might have two 
 rows of Artichokes, extending half the length of the 
 row before mentioned. Those who are very fond of Arti- 
 chokes might have some few clumps in an earlier spot j 
 and, to have them late in the year, the latest should be 
 cut off with stems as long as possible, and these stems 
 stuck into moist earth or sand in a cool shed or in a 
 cellar J preserved in which manner, many people have 
 them to eat in January. There are two sorts of this plant> 
 the difference of which consists, I believe, solely in the 
 fruit, or rather of the flower j for, after all, the seed is 
 the fruit. One of these sorts bear a conical head, and 
 the other a head which is round. The latter is larger 
 than the former, but I never heard that there was any 
 difference in the quality. If you wish to save the seed 
 of this plant, you ought to let some of the earliest heads 
 remain uncut, they will flower like a thistle in the sum- 
 mer, and the seed very much like that of the Sun-flower, 
 will be ripe in the Fall. Gather it when perfectly dry, 
 rub it out of the husk, and put it by in a very dry place, 
 where it will keep good for three years at the least. 
 
 120. ASPARAGUS.— This plant is raised from seed 
 only. It is contained in small berries which are first 
 green and then red, each of which contains two or 
 three black seeds which are ripe in the month of Octo- 
 
I 
 
 V. ASPARAGUS. 
 
 ber. The seed should be then gathered, made perfectly 
 dry. The pods kept whole and hung up in a dry place 
 for use 3 when wanted to be sown, it should be rubbed 
 out of the pod. Out of the pod, the seed will keep four 
 or five years ; but, if in the pod and kept dry, it would 
 probably keep twenty. To have asparagus beds, there 
 are two ways of going to work : first : sowing the seeds 
 in the beds at once 3 and, second, raising the plants else- 
 where, and transplanting them into beds. The beds 
 ought to be four feet wide, and not more, because you 
 ought to be able to cut the asparagus without going upon 
 the beds. If the ground where the beds are to be, have 
 a dry bottom to a great depth, the beds may stand pretty 
 nearly upon a level with the common earth of the garden ; 
 but, if the bottom be wet, the paths between the beds 
 ought to be deep ; they ought to serve as trenches ; for 
 asparagus does not like to have its roots sopping in wet ; 
 and yet it likes rich and rather moist ground. It is un- 
 derstood that the whole of the garden has been trenched 
 to the depth of three feet nine inches, to which depth, 
 however, the root of the asparagus will not be very long 
 in going j for, if the culture be good, and the bottom 
 free from stagnant water, a plantation will last for a good 
 long life-time, or more. The ground being manured 
 well, well-dug, and made very fine, lay out your beds in 
 March in dry weather 3 or, indeed, in good ground, any 
 time in April may do very well. Suppose, four beds to 
 be wanted, each of them as long as the width of one of 
 the plats in the garden. Lay out the four beds at the 
 west end, for instance, of plat g ; and the beds will, of 
 course, run from north to south : each bed is to be four 
 feet wide, and each alley between the beds, two feet, or 
 
 F 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 two feet and a half wide. As you mark out your beds, 
 drive down, at each corner, a pin of some durable wood, 
 about the size of your wrist (if it be a stout one), and 
 going down into the ground a foot and a half at least, 
 leaving six inches to be above ground j these pins being 
 always ready to apply the line to, will prevent the beds 
 from ever getting out of their proper shape. Having 
 laid out the beds, make three lines along each, placing 
 the first line at six inches from the outside of the bed. 
 The lines are to be a foot apart, and that will leave six 
 inches from the outside line to the outside of the bed ; 
 sow the seed along these lines, press it well down into 
 the ground, and cover it lightly. The plants will be up 
 in June ; and, as soon as they are fairly up, thin them to 
 a foot apart, and keep them very clean and nicely hoed 
 all the summer. They will, in the autumn, have stalks 
 or haulm about a foot high, which will turn yellow in the 
 month of November. When it do so, cut it off, and 
 cover the bed an inch or two deep with a mixture of 
 wood ashes or other compost. Thus the beds will lie all 
 the winter. In the spring, March or early in April, move 
 the tops of the beds with a forky and carefully pick out 
 all weeds that make their appearance 5 and then throw 
 upon the beds earth about two inches deep from the 
 alleys, making that earth very fine, and keeping the 
 edges of the alleys very smooth and straight. The 
 plants >vill now send out several shoots from each crown, 
 and, if kept clean during the summer, the haulm will 
 attain the height of three feet. This year, the plants will 
 bear some seed j but, no notice is to be taken of that j 
 and, in the month of November, when the haulm becomes 
 yellow, you cut it off again close to the ground, and lay 
 
V. ASPARAGUS. 
 
 on good, well prepared compost, partly consisting of 
 rotten dung to the depth of two inches or a little more. 
 In the spring, in March, throw upon the beds three 
 inches deep of earth out of the alleys. Break it very 
 fine, and attend to keeping the sides of the bed very 
 smooth and erect. This is the third year after sowing j 
 and, if the ground be good in its nature, and, if all these 
 instructions be duly attended to, there will be some 
 heads of asparagus fit to cut. The four beds will con- 
 tain 588 stools or crowns; and, if you were to cut only 
 four heads of asparagus from each crown, you would 
 have above twenty hundred bundles of asparagus, a 
 hundred in each bundle. However, unless the crowns 
 be %'ery strong, it would be best to wait another year j 
 and then, without cutting any but what would be very 
 fine, you would have more than any family of reasonable 
 size would want to consume. In the fall of this third 
 year, cut down the haulm as before ; put on manure 
 again as before 3 and in the next spring, take another 
 two and a half inches of earth out of the alleys and put 
 on the beds as before. The alleys will now be deep 
 enough, and you need never throw any more earth upon 
 the beds, except the shovellings up of what has fallen 
 into them from the beds by washing or crumbling : and 
 this ought to be done every spring, in March. Every 
 fall, the haulm ought to be cut off j and some little 
 matter of manure, rather of a littery sort, scattered on ; 
 and this ought to be forked up every spring, previous to 
 the shovelling up of the alleys. One very great fault in 
 the management of asparagus beds, is, to suffer the seed 
 to drop and to remain on the beds. This seed will grow 
 and become plants j and, in a short time, you have the 
 
 f2 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 bed all in confusion, young ones growing at the top, and 
 old ones growing underneath. Therefore, the haulm 
 ought to be cut off before the seed drop ; and, if it 
 should, by accident, drop, in the cutting of the haulm, 
 the seed ought to be swept carefully up with a broom 
 and carried away. It is the practice of many persons, and 
 of most persons, to sow lettuces, onions and radishes, 
 upon asparagus beds, which are taken off before the 
 haulm of the asparagus arise to any considerable height j 
 but this is a very bad practice : these plants rob the 
 asparagus, they prevent its due cultivation ; and, in 
 short, the injury to you as a gardener is much greater 
 than its good. In the cutting of asparagus, great care 
 must be taken to use a proper instrument, and to make 
 the cut in a proper manner. The instrument is a knife 
 made with teeth, like a saw, which ought to be put down 
 close by the side of the shoot which you are going to cut off, 
 and then you separate the shoot from the crown by a push 
 almost perpendicular -, for otherwise, you might destroy 
 three or four shoots in the cutting off of one. Those shoots 
 which you do not cut off for the purpose of eating, are 
 left to go on to become haulm, and these are cut down 
 annually at the time and in the manner described. Such 
 is the manner of raising asparagus from seed. The man- 
 ner of raising from plants is this : you sow the aspara- 
 gus in March or April, in the same manner as described 
 for the beds, in some other spot 3 and, when the plants 
 come up, you thin them carefully to the distance of about 
 three inches apart, keeping them very clean all the sum- 
 mer. In October, or in March the next year, you make 
 your beds as before j and, instead of sowing seed in the 
 Ihree rows upon each bed as before directed, plant these 
 
V,: 
 
 ASPXRAGVikifMiynM 
 
 plants at a foot apart in these rows, placing their crowns 
 about half an inch below the top of the ground^ and then 
 covering the beds over an inch or two deep with good 
 compost, or fine manure of some sort or other, having 
 amongst it some salt, not too much, or a pretty good 
 portion of wood-ashes. You then proceed with these 
 beds, autumn and spring, precisely in the same way with 
 the beds of sown asparagus j and you may, perhaps, 
 have them fit to cut a year earlier 5 and, if great care be 
 taken, that will certainly be the case. The asparagus is 
 so excellent a plant ; it is so good, and is so great a 
 favourite, that it is one of the few garden plants that is 
 worth the trouble and expense of a hot-bed, and particu- 
 larly as the trouble which it gives is in an inverse propor- 
 tion to its value. To have asparagus in hot-beds, which 
 you may have if you will, from November until the time 
 that it comes in the open ground, this is the method j 
 make a bed, according to the rules laid down in Chap- 
 ter III. The bed ought to be strong or weak j that is to 
 say, high or low, according to the season of the year. In 
 November, for instance, you want but little heat : in 
 January and February a great deal : less in March, and 
 scarcely any in April. To have the plants, make a bed, 
 the rows on which should be seven inches apart, and the 
 plants six inches apart in the row. Fill this bed with 
 plants that have stood one year elsewhere in the manner 
 before-mentioned. Let them stand two years in this 
 bed, and be managed there just in the same manner as if 
 they were going to stand there for ever. At the end of these 
 two years, as soon as the haulm turns yellow, the plants 
 will be fit to take up to put into hot-beds. When you 
 have m£^de ygur b^d, and the heat .b<$.sufiiciently up,.|jut 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN-PLANTS. CuAP. 
 
 good earth upon it four inches deep or thereabouts. Then 
 take up the plants, or, rather, the crowns from their bed, 
 and place them upon the earth in the hot-bed as near 
 together as they can conveniently stand. Take care that 
 the crowns are all of the same height in the hot-bed, and 
 bring them from the garden beds with their balls of earth 
 to them, and their roots as little torn as possible. When 
 you have the crowns all neatly and evenly arranged upon 
 the beds, fill all the interstices between them with fine 
 earth, give the whole a gentle watering, and then cover 
 the crowns over with fine earth six inches deep. If the 
 bed be a pretty strong one, and, if you give air judi- 
 ciously, and keep frosts effectually out, you may cut 
 asparagus in twenty days from the time that you put the 
 crowns into the bed ; but, you must be watchful to give 
 as much air as the season will permit, otherwise the as- 
 paragus will be spindling, will be of a pale colour, and 
 will have very little taste. It may so happen, that, when 
 you are ready to put your asparagus into the bed, the 
 crowns will be locked up from you by frost. To be pre- 
 pared for this, put, in due time, more litter, or straw, 
 upon your stock of crowns than the frosts can penetrate 
 through. If you wish to have but one hot-bed of aspa- 
 ragus every year, your annual provision of crowns will, 
 of course, be accordingly. These crowns will give you, 
 in the hot-bed, asparagus for a month or six weeks j and 
 that, too, if you please, in January or February. When 
 they have borne their crop, they are of no more use, and 
 will, of course, be flung away ; but, they are worth the 
 trouble, and I know of nothing that is more sure to 
 be attended with success. If the weather should prove 
 very severe while the crowns are in the bed, not only 
 
V. BALM, BASIL, 
 
 thick coverings, but linings, must be resorted to, and 
 these you will find fully described under the head of 
 Cucumber. As to the sorts of asparagus of which some 
 people talk, I, for my part, could never discover any 
 diflference : some talk of red-topped and some of green- 
 topped J but I am convinced that all the diflference that 
 there is, is to be traced to the soil, the climate, and the 
 culture. 
 
 121. BALM. — This is a herb purely medicinal. A 
 very little of it is sufficient in any garden. It is propa- 
 gated from seed, or from offsets. When once planted, 
 the only care required is to see that i do not extend 
 itself too widely. 
 
 122. BASIL is a very sweet annual poi-herb, being o» 
 two sorts, the dwarf and the tall. It should be sowec m vei-i 
 fine earth early in the spring, and transplanted into earth 
 equally fine, with very great care. But, let me here speak 
 of the place for herbs in general. They should all be 
 collected together in one spot if possible. The best form 
 is a long bed, with an alley on each side of it, the bed 
 too narrow to need trampling in order to reach the 
 middle of it. The herbs should stand in rows made 
 across this bed, the quantity of each being in due pro- 
 portion to the consumption of the family ; for it is a 
 mark of great want of judgment to occupy great spaces 
 of greund with things that can be of no possible use. 
 We often see, in a gentleman's garden, as much parsley 
 growing as would be sufficient for the supply of a large 
 country town -, and, as to mintj I have often seen it co- 
 vering several rods of ground, when the sensible original 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 intention was that it should be confined within the space 
 of a couple of square yards. Mint, however, forms an 
 exception to what has just been said about collecting the 
 herbs together in one place ; for its encroachments are 
 such that it must be banished to some spot where those 
 encroachments can occasionally be restricted by the ope- 
 rations of the spade. 
 
 123. BEAN. — Bean is the name given to two plants 
 having very little resemblance to each other in almost 
 any respect. In the French language, they have two 
 different names wholly dissimilar to each other. That 
 sort which we call our bean, and which is an upright 
 plant, rising very high, producing a very large seed, and 
 is called garden-bean or horse-bean : that species the 
 French call/ere; that species which we call kidney-bean 
 (because the seed is exactly in the shape of a kidney), 
 or French bean, because, I suppose, it came originally 
 from France, the French call haricot ; which latter name 
 has given rise to an application of it, very curious, but 
 quite congenial to the turn of mind and taste of those 
 by whom it has been adopted. Thus, we see, a dish of 
 stewed mutton, made richer than its own means would 
 afford, by all manner of ingredients, call a haricot of 
 mutton ; whereas the French mean by a haricot of mut- 
 ton a dish full of haricots or beans, with a little morsel 
 of mutton stewed along with ihem. The English bean, 
 which is that that we have now to speak of, has several 
 varieties, the favourite amongst which, is the broad bean, 
 or Windsor bean. The long-pod is the next best, though 
 there are several others of nearly the same form, size and 
 quality. But, there is one bean which is called the 
 
V. ."-*"•" BEAN. 
 
 Mazagan, which comes earlier than the rest, and which, 
 on that account, is justly esteemed by those who like 
 this sort of vegetable, which, I must confess, I do not. 
 All this tribe of beans thrive best in moist and stifBsh 
 ground j but, if we desire to have them early, we must 
 sow them early j and, near a wall, facing to the south, 
 they may be sowed in November and even in October j 
 and, if kept earthed up pretty nearly to their tops, and 
 in very sharp weather, covered from the frost, they will 
 stand the winter pretty well ; and will be a little earlier 
 than those which are sowed in the latter end of February 
 or beginning of March. Another way to have these 
 early beans, is, to sow a small patch, and to let them 
 come up within an inch of one another. Standing thus 
 upon a small piece of ground, they are easily protected 
 in sharp weather -, and are ready to be removed, by 
 transplanting in the first mild weather in March 5 but 
 even then they should go into the warmest part of the 
 garden. Another sowing, even of tiiese, should take 
 place in the latter end of February, or very early in 
 March, which is the time also for sowing the Windsor 
 bean, the long-pod, and all the other varieties. Of the 
 Windsor bean and the long-pod another sowing should 
 take place in April, and in every month until July 3 that 
 is to say, if the family like them. The sowings ought to 
 be of small extent, however, for the crop is large, and 
 the plant, when it has shed its blossom, is no great 
 beauty, though exceeding almost all others in the sweet- 
 ness of its flower, llice are great enemies of beans, or, 
 more properly speaking, they love them too muck, us the 
 cannibal said of his fellow-creatures. This love, how- 
 ever, sometimes proves extremely inconvenient to the 
 
 f5 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 bean-planter j and, therefore, these gentry must be kept 
 down,which they easily are, however, by brick-traps,which 
 gardeners know very well how to set. The depth at 
 which the larger beans are sowed is about three inches, 
 and the smaller ones about two inches and a half ; but, 
 in every case, all the earth drawn out of the drill, should 
 be put in again upon the beans, and trodden down upon 
 them with the whole weight of the body of a stout man ; 
 for the more closely they are pressed into the ground, 
 and the ground is pressed upon them, the more certainly 
 and the more vigourously will they grow j and the more 
 difficult, too, will it be for the mice to displace them. 
 
 124. BEAN (KIDNEY), which the French call 
 HARICOT. — The varieties here are perfectly endless j 
 but there are two distinct descriptions of the kidney- 
 bean, dwarfs, and climbers. The mode, however, of pro- 
 pagating and cultivating is the same in both cases, except 
 that the dwarfs require smaller distances than the climber, 
 and that the latter are grown with the assistance of poles 
 which the former are not. This is a plant, very different, 
 indeed, in its nature, from the feve, or, English bean : 
 it is a native of a warm climate ; very sensible of frost, 
 and only one degree more hardy than the cucumber, and 
 not at all more hardy than the squash. The very slightest 
 frost checks the growth of the plant and changes the 
 colour of the leaves ; and, the leaves are absolutely 
 scorched up by frosts not sufficient to produce ice no 
 thicker than gauze j so that, we have here a summer 
 plant to all intents and purposes ; a plant that must be 
 cultivated under cover of some sort, except at times 
 when there is a complete absence of frost. The general 
 
V. KIDNEY-BEAN. 
 
 tt:- 
 
 time for sowing kidney-beans, in ground quite open, 
 when there is no shelter of any sort, and where covering 
 is wholly impracticable, is the first of May. I beg the 
 reader to bear this in mind : I have tried the thing often 
 enough : nine times out of ten, earlier sowing does no 
 good } and even sowing at this time has frequently been 
 found too early. I have had my kidney-beans all cut off 
 in the month of June ; and, therefore, if crop be the 
 object, the first week in May is quite early enough, 
 especially for the climbers. But, people wish to have 
 some small portion, at any rate, of so capital a vegetable, 
 as early as they possibly can. Those who have the 
 means, have them all the winter in hot-houses j but a 
 hot-bed or hot-beds are insufficient for such a purpose. 
 In our case, therefore, we must be content with the south 
 face of a wall, which, if made proper use of for this 
 purpose, will produce beans from twelve to twenty days 
 earlier than they can be had in perfectly open ground. 
 A single row put in, two inches deep, close to the wall, 
 the beans at about three inches apart in the row, about 
 the tenth of April, and earthed up to the seed leaf as soon 
 as they are above ground, and kept carefully screened 
 from frost every night by the leaning of a board or some 
 other thing against the wall -, a single row of these beans, 
 being also of the earliest sort, will, in the south of 
 England, produce beans fit to gather in the last week of. 
 June J while the same sort of beans sowed in the open 
 ground at the same time, will either rot in the ground 
 and never come up 3 or will, after coming up, be so in- ' 
 jured by the weather as to be overtaken by beans sowed 
 early in May, and will, after all, not produce a crop half 
 so abundant. A good general time for sowing the first 
 
KITCIIEX-GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 dwarf b^ariis for a crop, is, the first of May : to have a 
 constant supply, you should sow on the first of every 
 month, August inclusive, llie climbing beans should be 
 sowed about the 10th of May. The culture of beans is a 
 very easy matter. For the dwarf sorts, you make drills 
 two feet apart and two inches deep, lay the beans along 
 at three inches asunder, lay the earth over them and 
 t^ead it down hard. As soon as they are up, which is 
 very quickly, draw the earth from both sides (but not 
 when it is wet) close up to the stems, quite as high as 
 the bottom of the stem of the seed leaf, and then give all 
 the ground a good deep hoeing. The dwarf beans want 
 nothing more than this : they push on at a great rate : 
 they begin to show their blossoms in ten days, and if the 
 frosts keep away, you have beans in a very short time. 
 Even while they are producing, you can, if you please, 
 dig along the centre of the intervals, and there have 
 another crop of beans j or, if you like better, savoys, 
 broccoli, or other things for the autumn or the winter. 
 The beans are soon taken off, and your ground is ready 
 for any succeeding crop. As to the climbers, they are 
 sowed and cultivated in the same manner ; and they will, 
 if you please, creep about upon the ground ; but that is 
 not the best way. They should be planted in a double 
 row, same depth as the dwarf beans, and the two rows 
 about six inches apart. Then there should be an inter- 
 val between each two double rows, of five or six feet ; 
 they should be earthed up in the same manner as de- 
 scribed for the dwarf beans, and, as soon as earthed up, 
 the poles should be put to them. The poles ought to be 
 about eight feet long, and there ought to be two rows of 
 poles to every double row of beans, not placed upright. 
 
V. KIDNEY-BEANS. ': 
 
 but diagonally j and placed on the internal side of the 
 beans. The poles on one side of the double row ought 
 to point one way, and those on the other side, the other, 
 way, forming, together, a sort of rough trellis-work. 
 Beans will go on climbing and bearing till they get to 
 the top. There are two very distinct varieties of these 
 climbers. One hns a white seed, and has the perfect 
 kidney shape, the pod is very long and perfectly smooth. 
 This is called the Dutch runner, and is v&ry highly es- 
 teemed. The other variety has a seed not so flat, of a 
 black and red colour, it has a short pod, compared with 
 the other ; and that pod is rough, instead of being 
 smooth, and the blossom is red instead of being white 
 as in the case of the Dutch runner. But there is a white 
 sort of this bean also : like the red -blossomed bean in all 
 other respects, but having a white seed and a white 
 blossom. These are called rough runners, because the 
 pod differs from that of other kidney-beans in being 
 rough instead of smooth. These are most admirable 
 plants : they bear prodigiously j their product is, per- 
 haps, the most delicate of all ; and, from the latter end 
 of July, until the actual coming of the frosts, they con- 
 tinue to blow and to bear without the least relaxation, 
 let the weather be as hot or as dry as it may. The 
 Dutch-runner is not a very great bearer, and it gives out 
 in a comparatively short space of time : it will, too, 
 have good cultivation and favourable aspect ; whereas 
 the rough-runners will grow in the shade, will climb up 
 hedges and trees, will suffer their stems to be smothered 
 with weeds, and will continue to ornament whatever they 
 cling to, and to produce in abundance at the same time. 
 But, there is one precaution, applicable to all sorts of 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 kidney-beans, which must be by no means neglected ; 
 and that is, to take care that no pods be left upon the 
 plant, to contain beans approaching to a state of maturity} 
 for, the moment there be such pods, they draw away all 
 the strength of the plant to themselves, and it would 
 produce no more pods fit for use. It is the same with 
 the cucumber, suffer one cucumber to become large and 
 yellow, and to begin to ripen its seed, and not another 
 young cucumber will come upon the same plant. As to 
 the sorts or varieties of dwarf beans, the yellow dwarf, 
 that I have imported from America, I have found to be 
 the earliest, by several days, and also the greatest bearer. 
 There is the black dwarf, which is deemed early also. 
 The speckled dwarf is a great bearer, but not so early. 
 The best way, probably, is to sow one row of each on 
 the same day 3 and, though the difference in the time of 
 coming in may not be much, it may be something, and 
 nothing ought to be neglected in the case of a vegetable 
 so universally and so justly esteemed. It is curious, that 
 the Americans should follow the example of the French 
 with regard to the use of the produce of the kidney- 
 bean. They eat them as we do, in the pod ; or, rather, 
 they eat the pod, as we do 5 but they eat them more 
 frequently in the bean itself, and that at two diflFerent 
 stages, flrst, when it has got its full size in the pod, and 
 when, to me, it appears a very nasty thing ; and second, 
 they eat them as a winter vegetable : they soak them 
 and boil them. The French do the same, and I can by no 
 means discover that this was ever the practice in Eng- 
 land. The seed of the kidney bean may always be saved 
 in England with great facility, if we would but take the 
 proper means -, that is to say, forbear from eating the 
 
V;*''"* BEET. 
 
 earliest pods. We ought always to set apart a row or a 
 piece of a row for seed, and resolve never to touch it till 
 the seed be ripe. This is hardly ever done : we keep 
 eating on : above all things^ we take the first : those 
 that we save for seed are such as have had the good for- 
 tune to escape us, so that, our seed of this important 
 plant is generally very bad j it is but half ripe, and a 
 great deal of it rots as soon as it is put into the ground. 
 If the seed of this plant be well ripened, it will keep 
 good, if kept in the pod, for several years -, but, if taken 
 out of the pod, it cannot be relied on after the first 
 year. It is always the best way to keep it in the pod 
 until it be sown, if that be practicable. It continues to 
 be nourished there, and nature has excluded it completely 
 from the air. 
 
 125. BEET. — Some people enumerate several varieties 
 of the beet, and these of diflFerent colours. There are 
 but two cultivated in our gardens, and the great sign of 
 their perfection, is, their deep blood colour, a deficiency 
 in Which respect is regarded as an imperfection. One of 
 these is tap-rooted, like a carrot, and the other pretty 
 nearly as much a bulb as the common garden turnip. 
 The seed of the beet is a little, round, rough pod, thick 
 and hard, and containing within it sometimes two and 
 sometimes three black seeds. The pod is sowed for it is 
 next to impossible to get the seed out of it and to sepa- 
 rate one from the other. To have fine beets, the 
 ground should be dug very deeply and made very fine. 
 There ought to be no clods in it, especially for the tap- 
 rooted beet J for clods turn aside the tap-root and spoil 
 the shape of the beet. No fresh dung, by any means ; 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 for that causes side shoots to go out in search of it, and 
 thereby makes the root forked instead of straight j and, 
 as in the case of carrots, a forked root is never considered 
 to be a good one. The ground being well and deeply 
 dug and broken, drills should be nicely made about two 
 feet apart, and the seed laid along at the depth of about 
 an inch and a half, and at about a couple of inches from 
 each other. The earth that came out of the drill should 
 be put back upon the seed, and should be pressed down 
 upon it very hard, with the head of the rake, the foot of 
 man being too rude for this purpose. When the plants 
 come up, they should be thinned to about nine inches 
 apart in the row : the ground should be nicely flat-hoed 
 and kept clean during the summer : in October the roots 
 should be taken up, the l&aves cut oflF within a quarter of 
 an inch of the crown, the roots put to dry in the sun for 
 a week or more, and then put away in some dry place, or 
 packed in sand like carrots, for winter use. Beets may 
 be transplanted, and will, in that way, get to a very good 
 size, but they are apt to be forked. They should remain 
 in the seed bed till about the size of a radish such as we 
 eat at the table, and be put in immediately in very fine 
 earth, and they will do very well, though they will not 
 be so smooth as those that are left to stand where they 
 are sowed. 
 
 126. BROCCOLI.— There are two distinct species or 
 kinds of the broccoli ; the purple, and the white. There 
 are, besides, a sort that is of a brimstone colour, and 
 another that is greenish ^ but these only come from a 
 mixture of the other two sorts. One of which is white, 
 or, rather, cream colour, not so white as a cauliflower j 
 
 I 
 
V. BROCCOLI. 
 
 and the other is of a bright purple colour. Broccoli is 
 eaten from about the beginning of Novernb-sr, to about 
 the middle of April. The purple sort comes earliest ; 
 and the white is not generally in much perfection until 
 about the middle of February. There is a purple sort 
 which is called Cape broccoli, which comes earlier, I 
 believe, than any of the other purple, this being a purple 
 too. Gardeners talk of early broccoli seed, and of late j 
 and, doubtless, by dint of great care in saving seed from 
 the earliest heads, the habit of early produce in the 
 plants may be produced 5 but, while I do not think there 
 is much in this, it ought to be attended to when people 
 go to purchase seed. The time for sowing the purple 
 broccoli is about the beginning of April, if you wish to 
 have it in the autumn and in the beginning of winter, 
 and, if you wish to have it in the spring, the beginning 
 of May is a proper time to sow. Something, however, 
 depends upon the goodness, as well as the earliness, of 
 the ground j for, in good ground, especially if it be in a 
 warm situation, you may venture to sow either earlier or 
 later than the times here*mentioned. The first week in May 
 is quite time enough to sow the white broccoli 5 for, if 
 sowed earlier, it gets too much heat before the summer is 
 over ; it begins to form a head or flower before the frost 
 comes ; and, if the head be only closely approaching 
 towards outward appearance, sharp frost will destroy it : 
 it will rot ; and as this sort of broccoli never sends out 
 sprouts from the side, you lose the produce altogether. 
 Now, as to the manner of sowing the seed, as to the 
 manner of treating the plants after they are up, as to the 
 manner of transplanting them where they are to stand to 
 produce, and as to the cultivation while they are going 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 on towards a state of producing. These are all the 
 same as directed in the case of the Cabbage, under 
 which head I shall give full and minute instructions rela- 
 tive to all these operations. But, there is this diflference 
 between the cabbage and the broccoli, that the latter, 
 being a much larger plant than any of the garden cab- 
 bages, must have a greater space to grow in. The rows 
 ought to be three feet apart, and the plants at two and 
 a half feet apart in the rows. The broccoli plants have 
 long stems ; and, therefore, the earth should be, at dif- 
 ferent times, during their growth, drawn up to them, not 
 only for the purpose of keeping them upright, but for 
 the purpose of nourishment also j for roots will start out 
 of the sides of the stem and communicate great vigour 
 to the plants. The same ought to be done, indeed, in the 
 case of cabbages ; but with more care in the case of the 
 broccoli. 
 
 l-ar. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. —The plant that has 
 generally had this name given to it in England, is a thing 
 quite di£ferent from the real Brussels sprouts. This plant 
 rises up with a very long stem, which has a spreading 
 open head at the top, but which sends out from its sides 
 great numbers of little cabbages, round and solid, each 
 being of the bulk of a large walnut, and each being a 
 perfect cabbage-head in itself. This little cabbage comes 
 out just above the leaf which starts from the main stem, 
 and it is in fact lodged in the socket of that leaf j andj 
 as the leaves are numerous, there are frequently from 
 thirty to fifty cabbages coming out of each stem. The 
 large leaves are broken down in the month of August in 
 order to give the little cabbages room to grow j and in 
 
V. BURNET, CABBAGB. 
 
 November these begin to be in perfection, and continue 
 to be an excellent vegetable all the winter. The time of 
 sowing the seed is the fore-part of April. The treatment 
 of the plants, until planted out, the same as that of the 
 cabbage j and the distances at which the plants ought 
 to stand, the same as those mentioned for the broccoli, 
 these being also tall things and requiring much room. 
 Much care is necessary in the saving of the seed of this 
 plant, which, as I have observed before, has an open 
 spreading crown at the top. If you mean to save seed, 
 you must cut off this crown, and let the seed-stems and 
 flowers come out no-where but from the little cabbages 
 themselves. It is, most likely, owing to negligence, in 
 this respect, that we hardly ever see such a thing as real 
 Brussels sprouts in England 3 and it is said that it is pretty 
 nearly the same in France, the proper care being taken 
 no-where, apparently, but in the neighbourhood of 
 Brussels. 
 
 128. BURNET is a very well-known grass, or cattle- 
 plant. Some persons use it in sallads, for what reason I 
 know not, except that, when cut or bruised, it smells like 
 cucumber : its taste is certainly most disagreeable : it 
 appears to me to be of no use in a good garden : it is 
 perennial, and, if curiosity should induce any one to have 
 it in a garden, it can be propagated either from seed, or 
 from a parting of the roots, and one square foot of ground 
 will be certainly enough to let it have. 
 
 129. CABBAGE.— -Very diflPerent, indeed, is this article 
 from the last ; for, here we have a plant, universally 
 used, growing easily in almost every sort of soil, and 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 forming part of the table supply, in one shape or another, 
 from the first day of January to the last day of Decem- 
 ber. Under this head, therefore, I shall be very minute 
 in my instructions, more especially as the instructions 
 Under this head have been, and will be, so frequently re- 
 ferred to. First, of the manner of sowing. I will speak 
 of the seed, and of the sorts and of the season for sow- 
 ing by and by 3 but let me first speak of the manner of 
 sowing. This manner I have already described in great 
 part in the fourth Chapter, where I speak of the drawing 
 of drills across a seed-bed. Make a seed-bed of the 
 extent that you want, and make the earth very fine : then 
 mark it out in little drills. Drop the seed thinly along 
 these drills, put the earth back upon the seed, and press 
 it down very tightly upon it. When the seed comes up, 
 which will be very quickly, thin the plants to an inch 
 apart, or, perhaps a little more -, and do not delay this 
 work by any means -, for, small as the roots are, the 
 plants injure one another if they stand crowded for even 
 a short space of time while in the seed-leaf. At the 
 same time that you thin the plants, hoe the ground all 
 over Very nicely with a small hoe, and particularly near 
 the plants. When the plants have got four or six rough 
 leaves, they will touch one another, and ought to be re- 
 moved from the seed-bed. They are too small as yet to 
 be transferred to the spot where they are to come to per- 
 fection J but they ought now to be removed for the pur- 
 poses now presently to be mentioned. Prepare for the 
 purpose a bed three feet wide, and as long as the number 
 of your plants may require. Take up the plants with a 
 trowel or a stick, or something that will heave up the 
 earth, and prevent the breaking of the roots too much 
 
V. CABBAG£. 
 
 as they come out of the ground. Then, with a little 
 sharp-pointed stick, replant them in this new bed at the 
 distance of three or four inches apart every way. This 
 is called pricking out. If you have more plants than you 
 want, you throw away the small ones • if you want all the 
 plants that you have got, it is adviseable to divide the lot 
 into large and small, keeping each class by itself, in the 
 work of pricking out j so that when you come to transplant 
 for the crop, your plants will be all nearly of the same 
 size ', that is to say, the large will not be mixed with the 
 small J and there is this further convenience, that the 
 large ones may make one plantation and the small ones 
 another. This work should be done, if possible, in dry 
 weather, and in ground which has just been fresh dug. In 
 a very short time, these plants will be big enough to go into 
 their final plantation : they will come up with stout and 
 straight stems, without any tap root, and so well furnished 
 with fibres as to make them scarcely feel the effect of 
 transplanting J whereas, if you were to sufTer them to 
 stand in the seed-bed until large enough to be trans- 
 planted, they would come up with a long and naked tap- 
 root, ungarnished with fibres, and would be much slower 
 in their progress towards perfection, and would, in the 
 end, never attain the size that they will attain by these 
 means. The next operation is, to put the plants out in a 
 situation where they are to produce their crop. They 
 are to stand in rows, of course ; and I will speak of dis- 
 tances by and by when I come to speak of the different 
 sorts of cabbages. At present I am to speak only of the 
 act of planting. The tool to be used is that which is called 
 a setting-stick, which is the upper part of the handle of a 
 spade or shovel. The eye of the spade is the handle of the 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 Stick. From the bottom of the eye to the point of the 
 stick should be about nine inches in length. The stick 
 should not be tapering; but nearly of equal thickness all the 
 way down, to within an inch and a half of the point, where 
 it must be tapered off to the point. If the wood be cut 
 away all round, to the thickness of a dollar, and iron put 
 round in its stead, it makes a very complete tool. The 
 iron becomes bright, and the earth does not adhere to it, 
 as it does to wood. Having the plant in one hand, and 
 the stick in the other, make a hole suitable to the root 
 that it is to receive. Put in the root in such a way as 
 that the earth, when pressed in, will be on a level with 
 the butt-ends of the lower, or outward leaves of the 
 plant. Let the plant be rather higher than lower than 
 this ; for, care must be taken not to put the plants so 
 low as for the earth to fall, or be washed, into the heart of 
 the plant, nor even into the inside of the bottom leaves. The 
 stem of a cabbage, and stems of all the cabbage kind, send 
 out roots from all the parts of them that are put be- 
 neath the surface of the ground. It is good, therefore, 
 to plant as deep as you can without injury to the leaves. 
 The next consideration is, the fastening of the plant in the 
 ground. I cannot do better than repeat here what I have 
 said in my Year's Residence, Paragraphs 83 and 84 : 
 *' The hole is made deeper than the length of the roots ; 
 '' but the root should not be hent at the point, if it can 
 " be avoided. Then, while one hand holds the plant, with 
 *^ its root in the hole, the other hand applies the setting 
 ** stick to the earth on one side of the hole, the stick being 
 '* held in such a way as to form a sharp triangle with the 
 '' plant. Then, pushing the stick down, so that its point go 
 *' a little deeper than the point of the roof, and giving it a 
 
V. CABBAGE. 
 
 '' little twist, it presses the earth against the yointy or 
 " bottom of the root." And thus all is safe, and the 
 plant is sure to grow. The general, and almost univer- 
 sal, faultj is, that the planter, when he has put the root 
 into the hole, draws the earth up against the upper part 
 of the root, and, if he press pretty well there, he thinks 
 that the planting is well done. But it is the point of the 
 root against which the earth ought to be pressed, for 
 there the fibres are j and, if they do not touch the earth 
 closely ,\i\\Q. plant will not thrive. To know whether you 
 have fastened the plant well in the ground, take the tip 
 of one of the leaves of the plant between your finger 
 and thumb. Give a pull. If the plant resist the pull, so 
 far as for the bit of leaf to come away, the plant is pro- 
 perly fastened in the ground ; but, if the pull bring up 
 the plant -, then you may be sure that the planting is not 
 well done. The point of the stick ought to twist and 
 press the earth up close to the point of the root ; so that 
 there be no hollow there. Pressing the earth up against 
 the stem of the plant is of little use. As to distances, they 
 must be proportioned to the size which the cabbages 
 usually come to j and the size (difference of soil aside) 
 varies with the sort. However, for the very small sorts, 
 such as the early dwarf and early sea-green, a foot apart in 
 all directions is enough ; for there is no occasion to 
 waste garden ground ; and you do not want such things 
 to stand long, and the plants are in plenty as to number. 
 The next size is the early York, which may have sixteen 
 inches every way. The sugar-loaf may have twenty 
 inches. The Battersea and Savoy two feet and a half. 
 The large sorts, as the drum-head and others, three feet 
 at least. — Now, with regard to tillage, keep the ground 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. CuAP- 
 
 clear of weeds. But, whether there be weeds or not, 
 hoe between the plants in ten days after they are planted. 
 You cannot dig between the plants, which stand at the 
 smallest distances -, but you may, and ought, to dig 
 once, if not twice, during their growth, between all the 
 rest. To prevent a sudden check by breaking all the 
 roots at once, in hot weather, dig every other interval, 
 leave the rest, and dig them a week later. All the larger 
 sorts of cabbages should, about the time that their heads 
 are beginning to form, be earthed up j that is, have the 
 earth from the surface drawn up against the stem j and, 
 the taller the plants are, the more necessary this is, and 
 the higher should the earth be drawn. After the earth 
 has been thus drawn up from the surface, dig, or hoe deep, 
 the rest of the ground. — Thus the crop will be brought 
 to perfection. — As to sorts, the earliest is the early dwarf; 
 the next is the early sea-green ; then comes the early York. 
 Perhaps any one of them may do j but the first will head 
 ten days sooner than the last. The greatest thing be- 
 longing to cabbages, is, to have heads, loaved and white, 
 to cut early in the spring ; and these you cannot have 
 unless you sow the seed in the last week of July or first 
 week of August ; and unless that seed be of the early 
 sort and true. The manner of sowing seed and of prick- 
 ing out has already been described. The plants should 
 be put out into rows of two feet apart, and about fifteen 
 inches apart in the row ; and this work should be done 
 about the latter end of October. If, however, the season 
 have brought the plants very forward, they may go out a 
 little before ; but, if the weather prove very mild, it is a 
 very good way to dig them up and plant them again im- 
 mediately, each in its own place, about the middle of 
 
V. 
 
 CABBAGES. 
 
 November j for, if they get too forward, they will either 
 be greatly injured by a sharp winter, or will, by a mild 
 winter, be made to run up to seed in the spring, instead 
 of having heads. In general, in the south of England, 
 these cabbages, if properly treated, and of a right-early 
 sort,' will have good white loaves early in April, or, at 
 latest, by the middle of April. These are succeeded 
 by others sowed early in the spring- especially by 
 the sugar-loaf, which, if sowed in the spring, will 
 produce fine heads in the months of July, August, 
 and September, and some sowed a little later will 
 carry you through to the month of November. Early 
 Yorks sowed in June will follow these. For winter 
 use, there really needs nothing but the savoy, and the 
 dwarf green is the best of that kind. When true to its 
 kind, it is very much curled, and of a very deep green. 
 It should be sowed about the middle of April, pricked out 
 in the manner before described, but at larger distances, 
 because it is a larger plant, and because it ought to ac- 
 quire a good size of stem before it goes out into the 
 ground, the time for final planting being in the hot 
 month of July, and the distances being more extensive 
 than those of the smaller cabbages. Some savoys sowed 
 about a month after the main crop, and planted out six 
 weeks later than the main crop, will give you greens ia 
 the winter, far preferable to any Cale. Early cabbages 
 also, sowed and put out about the same time ; and planted 
 in rows very close to each other, afford greens all the 
 winter long. By November, the green savovs, first 
 planted out, will have large and close heads. The drum- 
 heads, and other large cabbages, are wholly unfit for a 
 garden. The red cabbage is raised and cultivated in the 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 same manner as the early cabbages. It is put out in the 
 fall of the year 3 but it is large and must have the same 
 distances as broccoli. They form their heads in the early 
 part of the summer and are hard, and fit for pickling, 
 towards the end of it. There remains now to speak of 
 the manner of saving cabbage seed, which is a matter of 
 great importance, because the trueness of the seed is a 
 circumstance on which depends the earliness and good- 
 ness of the plant. The cabbage is a biennial. When it 
 makes its loaf in the summer, you cut the loaf off in a 
 sloping cut. The plant will then throw out side-shoots j 
 but, in a month after cutting the head, the stump should 
 be taken up and laid by the heels, which will check the 
 growing of thesprouts. In the month of November these 
 stumps should be put out into rows where they are to 
 stand for seed. There should be two rows about eight 
 inches from each other, the stumps in one row being 
 opposite the intervals of the other row ; and then there 
 should be an interval of five feet between the rows in 
 order to give you a clear passage for putting stakes and 
 rods to hold up the seed-branches j and, also, for the 
 purpose of going freely into the plantation to keep oflf 
 the birds, many of which are great purloiners of cabbage- 
 seed. When the seed-pods begin to turn brown, cut the 
 stems off close to the ground, and place them upon a 
 cloth in the sun. When perfectly dry, thrash out the 
 seed y put it by, and keep it in a dry place. The ground 
 where the seed is grown should be kept perfectly clean. 
 The stems of the plants should be hilled up^in the same 
 manner as directed for a crop of cabbages ; and the whole 
 of the ground in the intervals should be dug in the I 
 month of March, an operation that will add greatly to I 
 
V. CALABASH, CALR. 
 
 the crop of seed. For a garden, two or three plants are 
 sufficient j but great care should be taken that they stand 
 not near to any thing of the cabbage, or broccoli or cau- 
 liflower kind that is in bloom at the same time. 
 
 130. CALABASH. — This is a species of crooked 
 squash, good for nothing as food, but is a very curious 
 thing, having a large and long shell, small in one part 
 and big in the other, and, when the big part is scooped 
 out, becomes a ladle with a long handle to it. A thing 
 very well worth growing for the curiosity, and grown in 
 exactly the same manner as the squash. 
 
 131. CALE or KALE.— By some called Borecole. This 
 is a species of cabbage which is used in winter only. It 
 does not head, or loave, but sends forth a loose open top 
 and numerous side-shoots, particularly after the top is 
 taken oflF. It is a very hardy plant, resists all frosts j but 
 it is, at the same time, but a coarse sort of thing. It is 
 to be sowed in the month of April, the plants treated in 
 the same way as that of the cabbage 3 the distances at 
 which it is finally planted about two feet each way. 
 There are two sorts, one a bright green, and the leaf 
 very much curled, and the other of a reddish brown co- 
 lour, and not curled at all. The green is generally 
 thought the best j but, as the green savoy will stand the 
 weather if sowed rather later in the year than mentioned 
 under the head of Cabbage, full as well as the Cale will, 
 there really seems to be very little reason for troubling 
 one's self with this very coarse vegetable ; for, it is ridi- 
 culous to seek a variety in getting bad things to take 
 their turn with good. 
 
 o 3 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 132. CALE (SEA). — This is a plant which is a native 
 of the sea-beach : it is, in fact, sea-cabbage. It has a 
 bloom not much unlike that of the cabbage, a seed also, 
 only larger ; the leaf strongly resembles the cabbage- 
 leaf j but this is a perennial, whereas all the cabbage 
 kinds are biennials. This plant soon gets to have a large 
 stem or stool, like the asparagus, out of which the shoots 
 come every spring. These stools are covered over 
 pretty deep with sand or coal-ashes or some such thing, 
 and sometimes with straw or leaves ; and the shoots, 
 coming up under the ashes or sand or earth, are bleached, 
 until they come to the air, and these shoots are cut off 
 and are applied for table-use just after the manner of the 
 asparagus j and, though in point of goodness, they are 
 not to be put in comparison with the asparagus, they 
 come a month earlier in the spring, and, for that reason, 
 they are cultivated. They are propagated by seed, and 
 also by oflFsets. The mode of sowing, and of planting 
 may be precisely the same, in all respects, as those di- 
 rected for the asparagus, except that you may begin to 
 cut the cale for eating, the second year. You cut down 
 the stalks in the fall of the year just in the same manner 
 as you cut down those of the asparagus ; and the treat- 
 ment all through may be just the same, except that there 
 may be a greater depth of ashes or of sand over the 
 cale than of earth or manure over the asparagus. While 
 you can have asparagus in a hot-bed, it can hardly be 
 worth while to have the cale in that way ; but if you 
 chose to do it, you might, and the method is the same, 
 except that the covering in the bed must be deeper for 
 the cale than for the asparagus. Gardeners sometimes, 
 after having covered the crowns well over with sand or 
 
V. CAMOMILE, CAPSICUM. 
 
 ashes, or some other thing, cover the point of each crown 
 with a large flower-pot, which, keeping the sun and air 
 from the shoots, these are bleached even after they come 
 up above the ashes or the sand. This appears to be a 
 very good way 3 for it saves the trouble of putting on 
 litter or leaves, which are very ugly things in a garden. 
 
 133. CAMOMILE is a perennial medicinal herb of 
 great use. It may be propagated from seed, but it is 
 most easily propagated by parting the roots. One little 
 bit of root will soon make a bed sufficient for a garden. 
 The flowers, which are used in medicine, should be 
 gathered before they begin to fade, and at a time when 
 they^are perfectly dry j and then put into a shady and 
 airy place to dry, which they will do perfectly, but not in 
 less than a month. When perfectly dry, they should be 
 put into a paper bag, hung up in a dry place, and kept 
 from all dust. 
 
 134. CAPSICUM.— This is a plant of a hot country. 
 It is sowed in the natural ground of the United States of 
 America, though it is a native of countries which are 
 never cold. The seed is, in this country, sowed in a 
 gentle hot-bed, in the month of March. In the middle 
 of April, they may be moved out, and planted under a 
 warm wall, so as to be covered by a frame and lights, or 
 by hand-glasses. And so as to have air given them in 
 the warm part of the day. "When no more frost is to be 
 expected, and when the general earth becomes warm j 
 that is to say, about the third week in June, the plants, 
 very carefully taken up and with the earth not much 
 shaken off from their roots, should be transplanted in a 
 
 I 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 bed of fine rich earth j but still in a warm part of the 
 garden. The bed should have hoops placed over it 5 the 
 plants should be shaded by mats every day for about a 
 week, if the sun be hot -, and if the nights be very cold 
 afterwards, the beds should have a little shelter in the 
 night for a fortnight or three weeks. The plants will be 
 in bloom in July, and, in the month of October, their 
 pods, which have a strong peppery taste, would be fit to 
 gather for pickling. There are several sorts of the cap- 
 sicum^ some with red pods, some with green ones, I do 
 not know which is the best in quality -, and a very small 
 quantity of these plants will suffice for any family. 
 
 135. CARAWAY is cultivated for its seeds, which are 
 used in cakes, and for some other purposes. Sow the 
 seed in the spring, about the first of April, and leave the 
 plants at about seven or eight inches apart in every direc- 
 tion. A small quantity of this plant will be sufficient, as 
 it is not a thing in very general request. 
 
 136. CARROT.—Read the article Beet 5 for the same 
 soil, the same manure, the same preparation for sowing, 
 the same distances, the same intercultivation, the same 
 time of taking up, and the same mode of preserving the 
 crop, all belong to the carrot ; but, the carrot ought to 
 be sowed as soon as possible after the coming of mild 
 weather in the spring j and great care must be taken to 
 watch the coming-up of the plants j for there are several 
 kinds of weeds, the seed-leaves of which are so much 
 like those of the carrot, that it requires long experience 
 and attentive observation to distinguish one from the 
 other. Carrot-seed lies long in the ground 3 and, there- 
 
V. CARROT. 
 
 fore, the seeds of innumerable weeds are up long enough 
 before it. Great care must therefore be taken to keep 
 down these weeds in time without destroying the carrots j 
 and it is next to impossible to do this, unless you sow 
 the carrots in rows, no fresh dung should be put into the 
 ground where carrots are sowed, for that would be sure 
 to bring abundance of seed weeds. To save carrot- seed, 
 as well as beet-seed, you must take some of the last 
 year's plants, and put them out early in the spring. When 
 the seed is ripe, the best way is, with regard to the car- 
 rot, to cut ofiF the whole stalk, hang it up in a very dry 
 place, and there let it remain until you want the seed to 
 sow. Kept in this way, it will grow very well at the end 
 of three or four years -, but, if separated from the stalk, 
 it will not keep well for more than one year. There is 
 some care necessary in the sowing of carrot-seed, which 
 it is difficult to scatter properly along the drill on account 
 of the numerous hairs which come out of the seed, and 
 make them hang to one another. The best way is, to 
 take some sand, or ashes, or very fine dry dust, and put 
 a pint of it to a pint of seed, rubbing both together by 
 your hands. This brings oflf the hairs from the seeds and 
 separates them from each other, and then they may be 
 very nicely and evenly sowed along the drills. There ought 
 to be no digging between carrots, beets, or any other 
 tap-rooted vegetables j because the moving of the earth 
 in the intervals invites the fibres to grow large, and to 
 become forks : deep cultivation is wrong here, for the 
 very same reason that it is generally good. Carrots are 
 sometimes raised in hot-beds, but I shall speak of this 
 under the head of Radishes. 
 
KITCHEN -GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 137. CAULIFLOWER.— The cauliflower is, in fact, 
 one sort of cabbage and the French call it Choujleur, or 
 flower-cabbage. Its product, as a vegetable to eat, is a 
 lump of rich pulp, instead of being a parcel of leaves 
 folding in towards a centre, and lapping over each other. 
 There is this distinction besides, that it is an annual 
 instead of being a biennial. The head, or flower as it is 
 called, sprouts oflF into real flower-stalks ; flowers come 
 upon these stalks ; seed-pods and seed follow the flowers, 
 and the plant bears seed within twelve months after it 
 is sown. As much care as possible should be taken in 
 obtaining good and true seed, which, as it is always pretty 
 dear, is apt to be adulterated. Some jiersons have talked 
 of an early sort and a late sort ; but I believe there is 
 but one. The manner of sowing the seed, and of thin- 
 ning out the young plants in the rows, is precisely that of 
 the cabbage. The season of sowing for cauliflowers to be 
 eaten in the spring, is about the middle of the month of 
 August. To guard against the effects of the difference in 
 seasons, the best way would be, perhaps, to make three 
 sowings, one on the first of August, one on the fifteenth 
 of August, and one on the 31st. for, the day which would 
 be the proper day in one year, would not be the proper 
 day in another. When the plants are of the same size as 
 the cabbage-plants have been directed to be before 
 pricked out, they should be pricked out also j but in a 
 more careful and regular manner than was thought neces- 
 sary in the case of the cabbage-plants. The spot should 
 be one of the warmest in the garden j and it should not 
 be a wet spot by any means. The cauliflower is a tender 
 plant, and, in severe weather, will want covering of some 
 sort, and, to say the truth, it is almost useless to attempt 
 
V, eAULIFLOWBR. 
 
 to rear them unless you nave glass to put them under in 
 very severe weather. They should be pricked out, there- 
 fore, in such manner as to allow of frames or hand- 
 glasses being placed over them. They should not be 
 covered, however, until the weather demand it, and, in 
 the meanwhile, you should hoe nicely between them very 
 frequently, and, by that means, keep the earth as dry 
 about their stems as the season will permit. In very 
 severe weather, they must be covered j but never any 
 longer than is absolutely necessary j for, too much co- 
 vering, and too much deprivation of air, makes them 
 weak and disqualifies them for bearing. From these beds, 
 you may plant them out in rows like cabbages, only at a 
 little greater distances, and, taking care to move a little 
 earth along with them, about the middle of March -, and, 
 in those rows, give them good cultivation, and earth them 
 up in the manner directed for the broccoli. But, greater 
 pains than this is generally taken j for, in the month of 
 November, they are generally put out in clumps of three, 
 four, five, or six in a clump, and there stand the winter, 
 covered by hand-glasses, or bell-glasses, which are taken 
 off when the weather is fine, and raised up at the bottom 
 by the means of bricks, to prevent a drawing up of the 
 plants. Towards spring ; that is to say, in the month of 
 March, the weakest of the plants in each clump are taken 
 up and planted elsewhere, and the glasses are continued 
 to be put over th« other plants, and to be raised higher and 
 higher at the bottom according to the season and state of 
 the weather. At last, the plants become too big for the 
 glasses, and the weather too warm for any covering to be 
 required. The glasses are then wholly taken away and 
 the plants are left to produce their heads. As the dry 
 G 5 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 weather approaches, the earth is drawn round the chimps 
 so as to form a dish for each -, and, when the heads begin 
 to appear, it is the practice to pour water into these 
 dishes. If the ground be very rich, this watering is cer- 
 tainly unnecessary 5 but, the earth should be very fre- 
 quently moved round the stems of the plants, and, as the 
 intervals ought to be not less than five feet wide, a good 
 and clean digging of those intervals ought to take place 
 in the month of April. This would probably prevent the 
 necessity of watering, in all cases j and I am disposed to 
 recommend it, being of opinion that it would be more 
 efficacious for the purpose intended. Cauliflowers begin 
 to have good heads in the month of May j sometimes 
 earlier and sometimes later according to the season : and, 
 in their commencement, as well as in their duration, they 
 are the formidable rivals of green peas. To have cauli- 
 flowers in the autumn, you must sow early in the month 
 of March, in a hot-bed of no very great heat 5 and to 
 which a great deal of air should be given; these plants 
 should be pricked out in April, in the manner before di- 
 rected, and planted out in rows when they attain the 
 proper size ; that is to say, when they become strong and 
 bold plants. To have this vegetable very late in the fall, 
 and even in December, sow in the open ground, in the 
 first week in May : prick out and plant out as directed in 
 the last instance. If no hard frosts come early, these 
 will have tolerable heads in the month of November, and 
 then, if there be some of ihem with very small heads, no 
 bigger than a crown piece, you may, by taking the plants 
 up, and putting their roots in sand in a shed or cellar, 
 have some tolerably good cauliflowers at Christmas. I, 
 
 J 
 
Vi eAULll?LOWBR. 
 
 having endeavoured one year, to raise cauliflowers in 
 Pennsylvania, where they will not flower in summer on 
 account of the excessive heat, which continually keeps 
 the heart open and prevents the head from coming up, 
 took my plants, in the month of November, when their 
 heads were just beginning to appear, and buried them in 
 the garden, according to the fashion of that country, ob- 
 served in the burying of cabbages j that is to say, to 
 place the cabbages along in a row, close to each other, 
 the head upon the level ground, and the roots standing 
 up in the air, and then to go on each side with a spade, 
 and throw up earth in such a manner as completely to 
 cover the heads and the leaves of the cabbages. Indeed, 
 my cauliflowers went into the ground in company with 
 some cabbages ) and, to my great surprize, when we took 
 up the part of the stock in which the cauliflowers were, 
 the greater part of them had heads as big as an ordinary 
 tea-cup. But, this method would not do in England j 
 for we have wet as well as frost ^ and, in Pennsylvania, 
 when once the earth is safely locked up by the frost, 
 there comes no wet to sink into little ridges such as I 
 have described. I think, however, that, if hung up by 
 the heels in a bam or a shed in November, cauliflowers 
 would augment their size as much as if put into sand in 
 a cave. If you attempt to save cauliflower-seed, no 
 pains that you can take would possibly be too great. 
 First look over your stock of heads : you will see some 
 of them less compact than the others : more uneven, and 
 more loose : round the edges of the heads, you will see 
 almost perfect smoothness in some, and, in others, you 
 will see a little sort of fringe appearing even before the 
 head comes to its full bigness ; and these heads which 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS, ChAP. 
 
 are not so compact as the others, will be less white, and 
 drawmg towards a cream colour. Now observe, it is the 
 compact, the smooth, the white head, of which you ought 
 to save the seed ; and, though it will bear much less seed 
 than a loose head, it will be good : you can rely upon it j 
 and that is more than you can upon any seed that you 
 purchase, though it come from Italy, whence this fine 
 vegetable originally came. There remains to notice only, 
 that the sun is apt to scorch the heads of cauliflowers, 
 and to make them of a brownish hue, which prepares 
 them for rotting if much wet after\yards come upon 
 them. To protect them from this, bend and break down 
 a couple of the large outer leaves, which will be protec- 
 tion against both sun and wet while the head is arriving 
 at maturity. 
 
 138. CELERY.— There are three sorts of celery, the 
 white, the red, and the solid. The bottoms of the leaves 
 of the two former, become hollow j that is to say, of 
 the outside leaves ; and it is desirable that the part which 
 is eaten should not be very hollow ; but the solid celery 
 is, by no means, of so tine a flavour as the other. The red 
 is hardier than either of the other two j and, like most 
 other hardy things, it is not so good as the more tender. 
 It is too strong ; and has a smell and taste somewhat ap- 
 proaching to the hemlock. Celery is a winter plant ; but, 
 ab its seed lies very long in the ground, it ought to be 
 sowed early. It is difficult to make come up j and, 
 though it might do very well to sow it in a warm place 
 in the month of March, the easiest way, is, to sow it 
 upon a little bit of a hot-bed, though not on a greater 
 extent of ground than might be covered with a hand- 
 
V. CELEHY. 
 
 glass ; and, that space will contain a sufficiency of plants 
 for any garden however large. The plants come up very 
 much like parsley, and, when small, are hardly distin- 
 guished from young parsley plants. As soon as they 
 have two rough leaves, the glass may be taken ofiF, and 
 they may be exposed to the air. About six trenches of 
 celery, running across one of the plats, from North to 
 South, would give about 600 roots ; and, as it is not 
 in use for much more than about a hundred days of the 
 year, here would be six roots for every day, which is 
 much more than any family could want. When the 
 plants get to have about four or five rough leaves, they 
 ought to be pricked out upon a little bed of very fine 
 earth, by the means of a little pointed stick ; and they 
 ought to stand in that bed at about four inches apart, 
 having their roots nicely and closely pressed into the 
 ground. This operation would take place by the middle 
 of May, perhaps, and here the plants would attain a con- 
 siderable size by the month of July, which, a little earlier 
 or a little later, is the time for putting them out into 
 trenches. Knowing the number of plants that you 
 would want, you need prick out no more than that 
 number ; but, if you were to put out a thousand instead 
 of six hundred, you might have some to give to a neigh- 
 bour whose sowing might happen to have failed j and 
 this, observe, is a thing by no means to be overlooked ; 
 for, you will be a lucky gardener, indeed, if you never 
 •stand in need of like assistance from others j and this is 
 one of the great pleasures of gardening, that one has 
 almost always something to give away from one's super- 
 abundance J and here the gift is accompanied with no 
 ostentation on the one side, and without it being 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 deemed any favour on the other side. Your plants being 
 ready, about the middle of July, perhaps, make the 
 trenches a foot deep and afoot wide, and put them at not 
 less than five feet asunder. The ground that you make 
 the trenches in should not be fresh dug ; but be in a 
 solid state, which very conveniently may be -, for celery 
 comes on just as the peas and early cabbages and cauli- 
 flowers have gone oflF. Lay the earth that you take out 
 in the middle of the space between the trenches, so that 
 it may not be washed into them by the heavy rains ; for 
 it will, in such case, cover the hearts of the plants, and 
 will go very nearly to destroy them. When you have 
 made your trench, put along it some good rich compost 
 manure, partly consisting of wood ashes. Not dung ; or, 
 at least, not dung fresh from the yard ; for, if you use 
 that, the celery will be rank and pipy, and will not keep 
 nearly so long or so well. Dig this manure in, and break 
 all the earth very fine as you go. Then take up your 
 plants, and trim oflF the long roots. You will find, that 
 every plant has offsets to it, coming up by the side of the 
 main stem. Pull all these off, and leave only the single 
 stem. Cut the leaves off so as to leave the whole plant 
 about six inches long. Plant them, six inches apart, and 
 fix them, in the manner so minutely dwelt on under the 
 article Cabbage, keeping, as you are at work, your feet 
 close to the outside edges of the trench. Do not water 
 the plants j and, if you plant in fresh-dug ground, and 
 fix your plants well, none of the troublesome and cum- 
 brous business of shading is at all necessary ; for the plant 
 is naturally hardy, and, if it has heat to wither it above- 
 it has also that heat beneath to cause its roots to strike 
 out almost instantly. When the plants begin to grow. 
 
V. CELERV. 
 
 which they quickly will do, hoe on each side and between 
 theip with a small hoe. As they grow up, earth their 
 steias ; that is, put the earth up to them, but not too much 
 at a time ,- and let the earth that you put up be finely 
 broken, and not at all cloddy. Wliile you do this, keep 
 the stalks of the outside leaves close up to prevent the 
 earth from getting between the stems of the outside leaves 
 and the inner ones -, for, if it get there, it checks the plant 
 and makes the celery bad. — When you begin the earthing, 
 take first the edges of the trenches; and do not go into the 
 middle of the intervals for the earth that you took out of 
 the trenches. Keep working backwards, time after 
 time, that is earthing after earthing, till you come to the 
 earth that you dug out of the trenches j and, by this 
 time, the earth against the plants will be above the level 
 of the land. Then you take the earth out of the middle, 
 till, at last, the earth against the plants forms a ridge, and 
 the middle of each interval a sort of gutter. Earth up 
 very often, and do not put much at a time. Every week a 
 little earth to be put up. You should always earth up 
 when the ground is dry at top ; and, in October, when 
 winter is approaching, earth up very nicely to within four 
 or five inches of the very top. When you want celery 
 for use, you begin at the end of one trench, remove the 
 earth with the spade, and dig up the roots. The wet, the 
 snow, aided by the frosts and by the thaws, will, if care 
 be not taken, rot the celery at the heart, particularly the 
 wet, which descends down from the top, lodges in the 
 heart, and rots it. To prevent this, two boards, a foot 
 wide each, form the best protection. Their edges, on 
 one side laid upon the earth of the ridge, formed into a 
 roof over the point of the ridge, the upper eA^e of one 
 
KITCBEN-CARDEN PLANTS. ChAF. 
 
 board going an inch over the upper edge of the other, 
 and the boards fastened well with pegs : this will do the 
 business effectually ; for it is the wet that you have to 
 fear, and not the frost. If long and hard frost be appre- 
 hended, a quantity of celery should be taken up and laid 
 in a bed of sand or light earth in a shed or cellar j for, 
 when the ground is deeply frozen, it is sometimes impos- 
 sible to get it out without tearing it to pieces j and it 
 keeps very well for several weeks in a shed or cellar. To 
 have the seed of celery, take one plant or two, in the 
 spring, out of the ridge that stands last. Plant it in an 
 open place, and it will give you seed enough for several 
 years j for the seed keeps good for ten years, at least, if 
 kept pretty much from the air, and in a dry place. 
 
 139. CHERVIL. — This, like celery, spinage, and some 
 few other garden plants, is very much liked by some 
 people, and cannot be endured by others. It is an annual 
 plant : its leaves a good deal like those of double parsley : 
 it is used in salads, to which it gives an odour that some 
 people very much like : it bears a seed resembhng that 
 of a wild oat ; it is sowed in rows late in March or early 
 in April j and a very small patch of it is enough for any 
 garden : it bears its seed, of course, the first summer, 
 bears it, too, in great abundance, and, if properly pre- 
 served, the seed will last for six or seven years at the 
 least. 
 
 140. CIVES. — A little sort of Onion, which is perennial : 
 it may be propagated from seed 5 but the easiest way is 
 by parting the roots which are bunches of little bulbs 
 like those of crocuses or snow-drops. The greens only 
 
V. • CORIANDER, INDIAN CORN. 
 
 of this plant are used j and a very small patch is suf- 
 ficient for any garden. Five or six clumps in the herb- 
 bed would be sufficient. 
 
 141. CORIANDER is an annual plant that some per- 
 sons use in soups and salads. It is sowed early in April. 
 The seed is also used as a medicine* A yard or two 
 square of it will be sufficient. 
 
 142. CORN (Indian).— Infinite is the variety of the 
 sorts of Indian corn, and great is the difference in the 
 degrees of heat sufficient to bring the different sorts to 
 perfection. Several of the sorts will seldom ripen well 
 with the heat which they get in the state of New York, 
 requiring that of Carolina or Virginia, at least. Other 
 sorts will ripen perfectly well as far north as Boston ; 
 and there is a dwarf sort which will ripen equally well 
 on land 500 miles to the north of the last-mentioned 
 place. Whether this be the same sort as that which I 
 cultivate, I do not exactly know j but mine never fails to 
 come to perfection in England,' be the summer what it 
 may. This is a very fine garden vegetable. The ear is 
 stripped off the stalk just at the time when the grains 
 are full of milk. The ears are then boiled for about 
 twenty minutes : they are brought to table whole ; each 
 person takes an ear, rubs over it a little butter, and 
 sprinkles it with a little salt, and bites the grains from 
 the stalk to which they are attached, and which, in 
 America, is called the cob. In the Indian corn countries, 
 every creature likes Indian corn better than any other 
 vegetable, not excepting even the fine fruits of those 
 countries. When dead ripe, the grains are hard as 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 any grain can bej and, upon this grain, without any 
 grinding, horses are fed, oxen are fatted, hogs are fatted, 
 and poultry made perfectly fat by eating the grain whole 
 tossed down to them in the yard. The finest turkeys in 
 the whole world are fatted in this way, without the least 
 possible trouble. Nothing can be easier to raise. The 
 corn is planted along little drills about three or four feet 
 apart, the grains at four inches apart in the drill, any 
 when during the first fortnight in May. When it is out 
 of the ground about two inches, the ground should be 
 nicely moved all over, and particularly near to the plants. 
 When the plants attain to the height of a foot, the ground 
 should be dug between them, and a little earth should be 
 put up about the stems. When the plants attain the 
 height of a foot and a half or two feet, another digging 
 should take place, and the stems of the plants should be 
 earthed up to another four or five inches : after this, you 
 have nothing to do but keep the ground clear from weeds. 
 The corn will be in bloom, and the ears will begin to 
 show themselves in the latter end of July : in the latter 
 end of August, there will be some corn fit to eat -, and, as 
 some ears will always be more backward than others, there 
 will always be some in proper order for eating till about 
 the latter end of September. Those ears which are not 
 gathered before October, will become ripe, and the grains 
 in them hard : two or three of the finest ought to be 
 saved for seed, and the rest given to poultry : about three 
 rows across one of the plats in the garden would be suf- 
 ficient for any family. 
 
 143. CORN-SALAD.— This is a little insignificant 
 annual plant that some persons use in salads. It is. 
 
V. CRESS, CUCUMBER. 
 
 indeed, a weed, and can be of no real use where lettuces 
 are to be had. It bears abundance of seed, and a little 
 of it may be had by sowing in April, if any one should 
 have the strange curiosity. 
 
 144. CRESS is excellent in salads, with lettuces. It 
 is a peppery little thing, far preferable to mustard or 
 rape. It is an annual, and bears prodigious quantities^of 
 seed. A small quantity should, in the salad season, be 
 sowed every six days or thereabouts j for, it should be 
 cut before it come into rough leaf. It is sowed in little 
 drills made with the tops of the fingers, and covered 
 slightly with very fine earth : it is up almost immediately, 
 and quite fit to cut in five or six days. This and other 
 small salads may be very conveniently raised, in the 
 winter time, in any hot-bed that you happen to have. 
 
 145. CUCUMBER.— The instructions relative to the 
 raising of cucumbers naturally di^dde themselves into two 
 sets J one applicable to the raising of cucumbers in hot- 
 beds, and the other to the raising of cucumbers in the 
 natural ground, or with some little portion of artificial 
 heat. I shall first speak of the former ; for, the produce 
 of this plant is a very great favourite 5 it is a general de- 
 sire to have it early j and it is unquestionably true that 
 the flavour of the cucumber is never so delicate, and the 
 smell never so refreshing as when it is raised in a hot- 
 bed, or, at least, by the means of some artificial heat. To 
 do this, however, at so early a season as to have cucum- 
 bers fit to cut in March, requires great attention, some 
 expense, but particularly great attention. I shall, there- 
 fore, endeavour to give directions for the doing of this, in 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. CflAp. 
 
 as plain a manner as I possibly can j and, the reader will 
 please to observe, that the directions given for the rearing 
 of cucumbers will also apply to the rearing of melons ; 
 or, at least, they will thus apply in very great part, and 
 with those exceptions only which would be mentioned 
 under the head of melons. In Chapter III. we have seen 
 how a hot-bed is to be made j make such a bed, four 
 feet high, in the last fortnight of December. Make it, 
 however, for a frame of one light only j and let it extend 
 €very way to a foot on the outside of the bottom of the 
 frame. Put on the frame as directed in Chapter III., 
 ascertain when the heat is what it ought to be according 
 to the rule laid down in that Chapter, cover the bed over 
 four inches deep with dry mould, ;a good provision of 
 which you ought to have prepared and kept in a shed. 
 Then, and at the same time, put about a bushel of earth 
 in a flattish heap in the middle of the bed, and lay about 
 another bushel round the insides of the frame, at the same 
 time. Turn this earth over with your hand, once or 
 twice in twenty-four, or forty-eight hours, giving the bed 
 air in the middle of the day -, then level the bushel of 
 earth very nicely, and put in soijae early-frame cucumber 
 seeds in as great number as you may want, at half an 
 inch deep, cover them over, and press the earth gently 
 ■down upon them. They will appear above-ground in a 
 very few days j but, you must take care to give the bed 
 as much air as it will endure, even before the seed comes 
 «p ; and, after that, air must be given in as great quantity 
 as tlie weather will permit, to prevent the plants from 
 being drawn up with slender shanks. If the weather be 
 very severe, litter or straw should be laid all round the 
 bed, and quite up to the top of the frame, to keep out 
 
CUCUMBER. 
 
 the frost and to keep in the heat j but, above all things, 
 as much air as possible ought to be given ; for, there is 
 always a steam or reek in a hot-bed ; and, if this be not 
 let out, it destroys the stems of the plants, and they very 
 quickly perish. Yet, there may be snow, there may be 
 such severe frost, as to render this giving of air very 
 perilous. In the night-time^ it will frequently be neces- 
 sary to cover over the top of the lights, not only with 
 mats (which always ought to be done at this time of the 
 year) j but with straw to a considerable thickness, 
 besides the mats. In this case, you first lay the mat over 
 the glass : then put the straw upon the mat : then put 
 another mat over the straw, and fasten that mat securely 
 all over the frame, which is best done by billets of wood 
 about a foot and a half long and three inches thick each 
 way, with a tenter-hook at one end, to hang it on to the 
 mat. This is much better than tacking the mat& on to 
 the frame by a hammer and nails ; for this is a carpenter- 
 ing sort of work to be performed twice a-day. If the 
 weather be tolerably favourable, if it be not extremely 
 untoward, and if you have taken the proper pains, the 
 plants will be fit to be put into pots in about four or five 
 days from the time of their coming up. The time for 
 doing this, however, is best pointed out by the state of 
 the plants, which, as soon as you see the rough leaf 
 peeping up, are ready for potting. You then get your 
 pots about five inches deep, six inches over at the top, 
 and four inches over at the bottom, measuring from out- 
 side to outside. You put a small oyster-shell, the hollow 
 part downwards, over the hole at the bottom of the pot. 
 You fill the pots about three parts full of earth, heave 
 the plants out of the ground with your fingers, put two 
 
 \ 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 plants into each pot j holding the head of each towards 
 the rim, while you put in more earth with the other 
 hand to fill the pot up to the rim. Then take the pot and 
 gently rap the bottom of it upon the edge of the frame 
 three or four times, which will settle down the earth 
 sufficiently, and will leave the earth about half an inch 
 below the rim. You may then press the root of each 
 plant a little with the point of your finger, and put on a 
 little more earth to make all smooth. Observe, that the 
 shanks of the plants are to go so deeply down into the 
 pot as to leave the seed leaves but a very little above the 
 level of the earth in the pot. The earth will come out of 
 the heap to fill the pots with j and a very small part of it will 
 suffice. You will now draw the earth from the sides of the 
 frame towards the middle of the bed, and, having formed 
 it into a broader heap than before, put the pots down into 
 the mould up to the rim, taking care that they stand per- 
 fectly level, and taking care also, that the tops of the 
 plants do not stand too far from the glass j for that would 
 cause them to be drawn up and be made weak. About 
 six inches from the glass is quite enough. I am sup- 
 posing that your first cucumber-bed, for the producing 
 of fruit, is to have four lights. You will therefore want 
 but four pots of plants, but it will be better to have 
 double the number j the supernumeraries cost nothing, and 
 they may save aneighbour the trouble of making aseed-bed. 
 In this state the plants stand until they go into the 
 bed where they are to bear. They will be fit for re- 
 moval as soon as they have made two fair rough leaves, 
 and have begun to exhibit the appearance of shoots or 
 runners coming forth. But, while the plants are in this 
 situation, you must be careful to top them or stop them. 
 
V. CUCUMBER. 
 
 From between the seed leaves, there will come out a 
 shoot which will presently have one rough leaf on each 
 side of it j then between these two rough leaves you 
 will see a shoot rising. The moment this is clearly dis- 
 tinguishable, pinch it clean out with your fore-finger and 
 thumb 5 and this will cause shoots to come out on 
 both sides from the sockets of the two rough leaves 
 which have been left j and, by the time that these side- 
 shoots become an inch and a half long, the plants ought 
 to be removed into the large bed where they are to grow 
 and to bear J for, by this time, they will have filled the 
 pot with roots ; and, if they stand in the pots much 
 longer, some of these roots will become matted together 
 on the outsides and at the bottom of the pot, where 
 they will perish, and cause the plants to be stunted. 
 At this age, therefore, they should be removed into the 
 new bed, of the making and managing of which we 
 must now speak. The dung for it should be put into a 
 heap and turned beforehand in the manner described in 
 Chapter HI. J and, about a week, or a little more, before 
 the plants be ready to come out of the seed-bed, this 
 new bed must be made, full four feet high, or four feet 
 and a half, in the manner directed in Chapter III. The 
 frame should be put on, the state of the heat ascertained, 
 in the manner there directed, and, in this case, the 
 frame ought to fit the bed as nearly as possible, and 
 the bed ought not to extend beyond the sides of the 
 frame as in the case of the seed-bed j for here there 
 are to be linings, the purpose of which we shall see 
 by and by. This bed having arrived at the proper heat, 
 should be covered all over with dry mould to the depth 
 of four inches j then about three quarters of a bushel of 
 
 I 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 similar mould ought to be laid in the centre of each 
 light, rather nearer, however, to the back, than to the 
 front of the frame j and at the same time, three or four 
 bushels of mould, or more, ought to be laid round 
 against the frame on the inside. The mould in the heaps, 
 as well as that round the sides of the frame, and, indeed, 
 the mould all over the bed, ought to be stirred once, at 
 least, every day, and air ought to be given to the bed, 
 though there are, as yet, no plants in it. Every thing 
 having been thus prepared, take four pots of the plants ; 
 those which appear to be the finest, of course ; put the 
 mould into a round heap under the middle of each light 
 of the new bed, make a hole in the centre of the heap 
 suitable for your purpose. Take the pots of plants, one 
 at a time, put the fingers of one of your hands on the top 
 of the earth of the pot, then turn the pot upside down, 
 give the rim of it a little tap upon the edge of the frame, 
 pushing the oyster-shell with the fore-finger of the other 
 hand, and the plants and earth will come clean out of 
 the pot in a connected ball, which, with both hands, you 
 are to deposit in the hole which you have made in the 
 heap in the centre of the light. When you have thus 
 deposited it, draw the earth of the heap well up about 
 the ball, and press it a little with your fingers, taking 
 care of two things, first, that the hole be sufficiently 
 deep to admit the ball down into it so low that the earth 
 of the hill, when drawn up about the plants, may come 
 up quite to the lower side of the stem of the seed-leaves, 
 and,-second, taking care that the points of the leaves of the 
 plants be not more than six inches distance from the 
 glass. While the plants were in the seed-bed, it might 
 have been necessary to water them once or twice, and 
 
CUCUMBER. 
 
 especially about four days before their removal out of the 
 pots J and now again, at this final transplanting, a little 
 water should be given, gently poured on in one place, 
 between the stems of the two plants, and the hole that 
 that water makes should be covered over again with a 
 little fresh earth. The other four pots of plants which 
 you do not want, may be sunk in the earth in any part of 
 this new bed, being watered occasionally, and finally flung 
 away if you do not want them. But, at this time of the 
 year, the water must not be cold : it must have stood in 
 the bed, in a small watering-pot, to get warm, and this 
 must be observed continually until a much later season 
 of the year. By the time that you have these plants in 
 the bearing-bed, the latter end of January will have 
 come, and you will have all the difficulties of hard 
 weather to contend with. The bed itself will not have 
 a sufficiently strong heat for more than about a fortnight, 
 and, therefore, linings must be prepared, the dung for* 
 which must be got ready in time, as mentioned in Chap- 
 ter III., and the lining is to be made thus : the first lin- 
 ing is put at the back, or north side, of the bed. It is; 
 in fact, another narrow hot-bed, built up along at the 
 back of the original one, perpendicular, as near as may 
 be, till you approach the top, twenty inches through, 
 made of good materials, and put together with the 
 greatest care. It is to be carried up even to the height 
 of the top of the frame, where a board is to be laid on 
 upon it, close against the frame, in order to prevent the 
 steam, arising from it, finding its way in upon the 
 plants. This lining will send great heat into the bed, 
 and will continue so to do for a great while j but still a 
 fresh supply of heat will be wanted j and, therefore, in 
 
 H 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 about another fortnight, you are to put a similar lining 
 to both ends of the bed j and, in a fortnight from that 
 time, or thereabouts, according to the weather and the 
 state of the bed, another similar lining in the front of the 
 bed, the dung having, in all these cases, been duly pre- 
 pared as noticed in Chapter III. As these linings sink, they 
 ought to be topped up, keeping them always as nearly as 
 possible to the height of the top of the frame. If very 
 sharp weather come before these linings, or before some 
 of them, have been made, good quantities of litter, or of 
 straw, ought to be brought temporarily to supply their 
 place, so that frost never reach the bed. Even when 
 there are linings, it is good, in very sharp weather, to 
 put litter and straw round the outsides of them; for, 
 dung being moist, the frost soon reaches it, and then it 
 becomes inactive at once. To these precautions relative 
 to the heat, must be added the not less important ones 
 relative to air and light ; for, without these, no plant 
 will thrive, nor will it live but for a short space of time. 
 At this season of the year, the glasses must be covered 
 over in the night time, as was before-mentioned in the 
 ease of the seed-bed j but, these coverings should re- 
 main on in the morning never longer than is absolutely 
 necessary. Though there be no sun, there is light, and 
 plants crave the light at the time when nature sends it. 
 As to air, it is given to the plants by the means of pieces 
 of triangular wood, which every one knows how to make. 
 The light is lifted up at one end, and the tilter, as it is 
 called, is put under the middle of the light to keep it up 
 to the height required. You sometimes give air on the 
 back side of the frame and sometimes on the front, ac- 
 cording to the direction in which the wind is coming. 
 
V. CUCUBIBBR. 
 
 To give directions respecting the quantity of air, one can 
 only say, that it must be in proportion to the heat of the 
 bed and the state of the weather j but it may be observed 
 as an invariable rule, that strong heat, and a good quan- 
 tity of air are the sure means of having early cucumbers. 
 When the air is kept excluded or supplied in niggardly 
 quantities, because the heat is not powerful enough to 
 counteract its chilling effects, the plants will linger on 
 alive, to be sure, but their colour will be approaching to 
 a yellow, their leaves small, their shoots slender, their 
 blossoms small and feeble, the fruit, if they show any, will 
 not swell ; and, if they bear after all, it will not be before 
 pretty nearly the month of May, instead of a decent 
 bearing in the month of March. A good strong bottom 
 heat, with a great deal of light, and with a liberal quan- 
 tity of air, are the great means of having cucumbers. 
 The next thing to be noticed is, the after-cultivation of 
 the plants, and, first, with respect to the shoots or runners 
 that come out of them. There will come two shoots out 
 of each plant, and these will soon begin to grow in a 
 horizontal position, and, indeed, go along the ground, 
 which it is their nature to do j but tliese two shoots 
 would not be sufficient ; for they would soon get to the 
 outside of the bed, leaving the middle of the bed not 
 half covered with vines j therefore, when these runners 
 have got three joints, and are beginning to make a 
 fourth, pinch off the top of each runner. New side- 
 shoots or runners will then come oat from the three joints. 
 When these have got four joints, which Will be very 
 quickly, pinch off the fifth as soon as it appears. Eacl^ 
 plant will now have a dozen or two of runners, and that 
 is enough for one light. After this, you may let the. 
 
 Ih2 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAK 
 
 runners go on, giving their heads a better direction, now- 
 and-then, in order to cover the ground in the bed j for 
 they will need no more topping. But, there must be 
 earthing up, as well as topping. As the plants advance 
 above ground, so they will below ground, and you must 
 keep putting up earth to the hills in order to supply 
 fresh food for the roots which you will find pushing out 
 in every direction. It is the practice of some gardeners, 
 to be everlastingly drawing the earth away from the side 
 of the hills till they come to the plants, in order to take 
 the points of the roots up and put earth under them, so 
 as to give the roots a horizontal direction. This is sheer 
 nonsense. All that is necessary, is, to keep the hills 
 continually made larger and larger in circumference, as 
 the roots approach the outside, and until you have got all 
 the bed level to the tops of the hills. As you extend the 
 circumference of the hills, the runners will advance upon 
 you J ^nd, that the bed may be covered evenly with the 
 vines, the runners should be occasionally held down by 
 little pegs of wood with hooks at the top of them. At 
 last the bed is even and level all over. And, finally, it 
 is covered with the vines, and should always be kept quite 
 clear of the innumerable weeds that will start in such a 
 favourable situation ; but, long before this, there will be 
 blossoms and even fruit, if the plants be in good health. 
 The first fruit that appears generally remains small, and 
 never swells to any size ; but these are soon followed by 
 others that swell and that come to perfection j and, if all 
 these directions be attended to, and, if the weather be 
 not worse than it is one year out of twenty, you can 
 hardly fail to have cucumbers to cut about the middle of 
 March, which is a very fine thing for a gardener to say ; . 
 
 I 
 
V, CUCUMBER. 
 
 and, though here is a great deal of detail, though here are 
 a great number of things to do, there is much more of 
 words than of deeds in the thing : it takes two or three 
 sentences to describe how a plant is to be put into or 
 turned out of a pot ; but the act itself is performed in 
 lialf a minute. Care ought to be taken that there be not 
 too great a quantity of vines in the bed ; for, if the mass 
 of leaves be too great, they shade part of the vines, shade 
 the blossoms and the fruit -j and, instead of having more 
 fruit from the abundance of vines, you have, perhaps, 
 none at all. This over-stocking of the bed with vines is 
 a great and prevalent error. For my part, I think one 
 plant enough for each hill, and I never kept but one in a 
 hill, and, if I put two into a pot, it was by way of pre- 
 caution lest one should fail. One will bring more weight 
 of fruit than two, two more than three, and so on, till 
 you come to a number that would give you no fruit at all. 
 The plants thus crowded, rob one another ; their roots in- 
 terfere with those of each other. They cease to bear 
 sooner than they would if they stood singly ; and, in 
 short, my experience and observation induce me strongly 
 to urge the reader never to have in a hot-bed, whether of 
 cucumber or melon, more than one plant in a light. As 
 the season advances, a greater proportion of air is to be 
 given, of course, and there is to be less covering in the 
 night-time, dependant, however, more on the state of the 
 weather than on the precise time of the year ; for we 
 have frequently mild weather in February and severe 
 weather in March. M'^hen the weather becomes such 
 as that water will have the chill taken from it by being- 
 placed under a south wall or in a hot-bed, water thus 
 prepared, may do very well j but, until then, the water 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 should be a little warm. Every one will be a judge when 
 the earth is so dry as to require water j but care should 
 be taken not to let the water fall in great quantities just 
 upon the stems of the plants at any stage of their growth, 
 for that is apt to rot them. This early cucumber bed 
 will keep on bearing very well until the latter end of 
 May, by which time, another bed, made about the middle 
 or latter end of March will have succeeded it. The plants 
 for this second crop of cucumbers are to be raised in pots 
 put into the cucumber-bed, last mentioned. They are 
 to be managed like those for the first bed, except 
 that they must be sown in a pot, instead of being sown in 
 a hill. The bed for these plants need not be above two 
 feet and a half high, or thereabouts. It will probably 
 want a slight lining ; but the materials need not be equal 
 to those made use of in the making of the early bed. In 
 the case of this latter bed, much air may be given, and 
 the covering of a mat, or two at most, and that only in 
 the night-time, will be sufficient. In April, some more 
 plants may be sown in a pot in this last bed, and repotted 
 as before -, and, in the middle of June, these may go out 
 into hills (under hand-glasses or without) in the open 
 ground, there to produce cucumbers for pickling, or, 
 indeed, for using in any other way, from the middle of 
 July until the time that the frost comes. Thus, will there 
 be a succession of cucumbers, from the middle of March 
 to the month of October. As to sorts, great attention 
 must be paid ; for, some sorts produce their fruit a great 
 deal quicker than others. There is one called the earli/ 
 frame cucumber ; another is called the earhj cluster cucum- 
 ber, another tiie long prickly cucumber. The early frame 
 has doubtless been found to be the quickest in coming to 
 
I 
 
 V. CUCUMBER. 
 
 perfection j but the cluster is a very great bearer, and 
 comes not much later than the other. There are several 
 other sorts, but the long prickly cucumber is most gene- 
 rally esteemed ; and, therefore, ought to be sowed for 
 those who want a general crop. With regard to sorts, 
 however, people generally save the seed themselves of 
 this plant, or get it from some careful and curious neigh- 
 bour J and every one sows that which happens to suit 
 his fancy. If you wish to save the seed of a cucumber, 
 let some one fine fruit remain 3 but expect the plant, on 
 which this fruit is, to cease bearing as soon as the seed 
 cucumber begins to ripen. This fruit must hang upon 
 the vine till it pretty nearly rots oflF : you then take the 
 seeds and separate them from the pulp as clean as you 
 can, place them to dry in the sun j but do not wash them 
 ■witii water : when perfectly dry, but not before, put 
 them away in a dry place, and they will keep good for a 
 great many years. Guard them against mice, for, if they 
 get at them, not one seed will th^y leave with the kernel 
 of it not eaten. After all, if you have no hot-bed at all, 
 a couple of wheel-barrow fulls of hot dung put into a 
 hole a foot deep, and with good mould a foot deep laid 
 upon the dung, is a very good situation for cucumbers 
 which you may sow there about the middle of May. Two 
 or three plants upon such a hill or bed, and, if you have a 
 hand-glass, keep the plants covered with that in the 
 night-time and when the days are cold, always giving 
 air, however, when the sun is out, and, in time, raising 
 the glass npon bricks and letting the vines run out under 
 it. Even if you have no hand-glass, you may cover, 
 with the help of hoops and a mat or a cloth, until the 
 weather be such as to render it safe for the plants to be- 
 
KltCnEN*-GARDEN PLANTS. CHAif. 
 
 fit Jarge. Finally, in very rich and warm ground, you 
 may sow cucumber-seed in the natural earth, the ground 
 having previously been well dug, and being kept very 
 clean afterwards j and, though there be a chance of your 
 having no crop, you may have, and generally will have, 
 a great quantity of cucumbers to pickle by the latter end 
 of August. Before I dismiss this article, let me observe, 
 that I have omitted to say any thing about what is called 
 setting the fruit by poking the centre of the male blossoms 
 into the centre of the female blossoms j because I deem 
 it to be arrant nonsense. The reader ought, before I 
 entirely quit this article, to be informed, that the hot-bed 
 in which the cucumber plants were first raised, may be 
 turned to very good account after the plants come out of 
 it ; asparagus may be put into it immediately ; or, it may 
 be sowed with radishes, onions, lettuces, small-salad, or 
 with carrots. Many purposes will suggest themselves to 
 every man. And, if the bed should fail of its original 
 purpose altogether -, or^ if, owing to some accident, the 
 four-light bed should fail of its purpose, still, these hot- 
 beds will be found to be of great use for other purposes, 
 and will be quite sufficient in point of strength for plants 
 of a more hardy nature. 
 
 146. DILL is an aromatic herb, very much like, only 
 smaller than, fennel, and it is used by many amongst 
 cucumbers to give an additional relish j as it is also in 
 soups. It is a hardy biennial plant, and a small patch in 
 the herb garden of two feet by six will be enough for any 
 family. Sow in drills six inches apart, in the spring, 
 making the ground fine first, and raking fine earth lightly 
 over the drills. Thin the plants out when they are a 
 
V. ENDIVR. 
 
 couple of inches high, and let them then remain where 
 they are ; and you will have abundance of self-sowed 
 plants every spring for renewing your bed. 
 
 147. ENDIVE.— This is a plant used for salads, and 
 is sometimes used, perhaps, in cookery. There is a curled 
 sort, and one that is plain, or smooth-leaved. The curled 
 is generally preferred to the other, but perhaps there is 
 very little difference in the quality. The lettuce, when to 
 be had, is decidedly preferred to the endive ; and there- 
 fore this latter is used for salad in autumn, and through 
 the winter as long as it can be had. If any one wish 
 to have endive in summer, it must be sowed early j but, 
 about the middle of the month of July, or, perhaps, a 
 little before, is the main time for sowing endive. If 
 sowed much before, it generally runs off to seed, and, in 
 fact, it is so much ground and trouble thrown away. 
 Make a bed very fine, and sow the seed in drills at 
 eighteen inches apart, and about half an inch deep in the 
 drill, the earth being pressed down very closely upon the 
 seed. The plants, which will be quickly up, must be 
 thinned as soon as possible to eighteen inches in the 
 row, and thus they will stand, throughout the bed, at 
 eighteen inches from each other. The leaf of the endive 
 goes off horizontally, and lies flat upon the ground j and, 
 if the ground be good and rich, as it ought to be, and 
 kept perfectly clean, the points of the leaves will meet 
 all over the ground, though at distances so great j but, if 
 cramped for room, endive can never be fine. When the 
 plants have got something like their full size, they are to 
 be bleached before they be eaten j for, they have a bitter 
 imd disagreeable taste, and are quite a coarse and dis- 
 h5 
 
KtTCfiEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 agreeable thing unless made white. The manner of 
 bleaching them is this. You take the plant, put your 
 fingers under all the leaves that touch the ground, gather 
 the whole plant up in your hands into a conical form, and 
 then tie it round with matting, which is to go several 
 times round the plant, and which is to cause the plant to 
 end so pointedly at the top as to prevent rain or dew 
 from reaching the inside. When the plant has remained 
 thus for about a fortnight, you cut it off at the stem, take 
 oflF the matting, and you will find that all the leaves, 
 except those of the outside, are become white and crisp, 
 and free from bitterness of taste. To have a succession 
 of these in good order, you should begin at one end of 
 the bed and tie up a dozen or two once or twice a week ; 
 and, when you cut, always cut those that were tied up first j 
 but it is very important to observe that this work of 
 bleaching or tying- up must never be performed except 
 when all the leaves of the plants are perfectly dry. The 
 great difficulty in the case of endive, is, to have it to use 
 in winter j for, though it is hardy enough, it will rot, if it 
 stand tied up too long ; and it is difficult to preserve it, 
 on account of this tendency to rot. One way is to take 
 up the roots with balls to them in the month of October, 
 when they are perfectly dry, tying the plants up, as be- 
 fore-mentioned, at the same time, planting these balls. in 
 sand or earth, in a shed. But, as this can hardly make 
 the plants reach, for use, beyond the middle of Decem- 
 ber, the only effectual way tohave endive in winter, is, to 
 cover them with glazed frames in the fall of the year, or 
 to do the same very well with hoops and mats, taking all 
 covering off in mild weather, just protecting the plants 
 from hard frosts, and going on bleaching and cutting for 
 
V. J^ENNEL, OARLICK. 
 
 use as directed for the autumn. Endive maybe trans- 
 planted, but it does not transplant so well as lettuce, and 
 the plants are never so fine as those that remain on the 
 spot where they were sowed. If transplanted, they should 
 be put at about twelve inches apart, hoed nicely between 
 and kept clear from weeds. Endive, if sowed early in 
 the spring, ripens its seed that same summer j but the 
 best way is to save two or three good plants that have 
 stood the winter, and let them go to seed. They will 
 produce a great abundance, which, if carefully preserved, 
 will keep good four or five years, at the least. 1 have 
 mentioned the middle of July as the time of sowing for 
 the main crop j but some may be sowed later, as it does 
 not require any great deal of room. 
 
 148. FENNEL is a perennial herb, propagated from 
 seed or from offsets, sowed in the spring, or the offsets 
 planted in the fall. The plants should stand about a foot 
 asunder. The leaves are used in salads, or for the making 
 a part of the sauce for fish. In winter, the seeds are 
 bruised, to put into fish-sauce, and they give it the same 
 flavour as the leaves of the plant. It is a very hardy 
 thing j two yards square in the herb-bed will be enough for 
 any family -, and, once in the ground, it will stand for an age. 
 
 149. GAB LICK may be propagated from the seed j but 
 is usually propagated from offsets. It is a bulb which in- 
 creases after the manner of the hyacinth and the tulip : 
 the offsets are taken off in the spring and planted in rows 
 at a foot apart, being merely pressed into the ground with 
 the finger and thumb and covered over with a little earth* 
 The ground ought to be kept perfectly clean during the 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 summer, and, though it ought to be good, it ought, by 
 no means to be wet. When the leaves begin to get 
 brown and to die, the root should be taken up and laid 
 upon a board in the hottest sun that is going until they 
 be perfectly dry : then, tied up in bunches by the leaves, 
 and hung up and preserved in a dry place. 
 
 150. GOURD is a sort of pumpkin j but I know not 
 any use that it is of. If any one wish to cultivate it, out 
 of mere curiosity, the directions will be found under 
 ** Pumpkin." 
 
 151. HOP. — The hop-top j that is to say, the shoot 
 which comes out in the spring and when it is about four 
 or five inches long, being tied up in little bunches, and 
 boiled for about half an hour, and eaten after the manner 
 of asparagus, is as delightful a vegetable as ever was put> 
 upon a table, not yielding, perhaps, during the about 
 three weeks that it is in season, to the asparagus itself. 
 What the hop is, in the hop plantations, every one in 
 England knows j but the manner of propagating the 
 plant is by no means a matter of such notoriety. The 
 hop may be propagated from seed j but it never is. The 
 mode of propagation is by cuttings from the crown or 
 the roots. Pieces of these, about six inches long being 
 planted in the ground with a setting-stick either in spring 
 or in autumn, shoot up and become plants. The hills or 
 clumps in the hop-phmtations are generally formed by 
 plants which have stood a year or two in a nursery where 
 the cuttings have been planted. About four or five of 
 the«e plants are put into a clump, little sticks are put to 
 them the first year to hold up their slender vines^ the 
 
I 
 
 V. horsb-radibh. 
 
 next year rods, the next year small and short poles, upon 
 which they begin to bear, and the next year poles of the 
 full length sufficient to carry a crop. The vines which 
 have gone up during the summer and borne the crop are 
 cut off to within two feet of the ground when the hops 
 are gathered ; in the spring of the year, the earth js 
 drawn away all round from the hill, and all the top part 
 of the plants is cut off, leaving the crown to look like a 
 piece of cork ; from this crown, which is lightly covered 
 over with earth, fresh shoots come again in great num- 
 bers, a part of the finest of these go up the poles, the 
 weak ones are suffered to hang about the ground for 
 some time ; they are then cut off close to the ground, 
 and the earth is drawn over the crown of the hill, form- 
 ing a ])retty large heap altogether before the summer be 
 over. To have hop-tops in a garden, therefore, about a 
 dozen or twenty hills might be planted along, and pretty 
 near to, one of the hedges. The cultivation should be after 
 the manner above directed j but, as there must be some 
 vines to go up to the full length, there might be a pole or 
 two to each hill to carry up four or six stout vines. The 
 poles need not be long, and, if they were not permitted 
 to bear, the plant would be the stronger. These hills 
 would, every spring, send forth a prodigious number of 
 shoots to serve as tops. These, as was said before, are 
 to be cropped off close to the ground when they are four 
 or five inches long 5 and the hills, when once established, 
 will last for a life-time with the culture before-mentioned 
 and with a good digging of the ground once every 
 winter. 
 
 152. HORSE-RADISH. — As a weed, I know of 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 nothing quite so pertinacious and pernicious as this : I 
 know of nothing but fire which will destroy its powers 
 of vegetation ; and I have never yet seen it clearly ex- 
 tirpated from ground which had once been filled with its 
 roots and fibres. But, as a vegetable, it is a very fine 
 thing : its uses are well known, and to those uses it is 
 applied by all who can get it. It is generally dearer, in 
 proportion to its bulk, than any other vegetable, and 
 much dearer, too. The trouble which its cultivation 
 gives J that is to say, its encroachments, causes it to be 
 banished from small gardens j and, therefore, it is scarce, 
 though so difficult to be destroyed. Any little bit of it, 
 whether of fibre or of root, a bit not bigger than a pea, 
 not longer than the eighth of an inch, if it have a bit of 
 skin or bark on it, will grow. The butts of the leaves 
 will grow, if put into the ground, and it bears seed in 
 prodigious abundance. The best way to get horse-radish, 
 Is to make holes a couple of feet deep with a bar, and to 
 toss little bits down to the bottoms of the holes, and then 
 fill them up again. You will soon have a plantation of 
 horse-radish, the roots long, straight, thick and tender. 
 A square rod of ground, with the roots in it planted a foot 
 apart every way, will, if kept clear of weeds, as it 
 always ought to be and never is, produce enough for a 
 family that eats roast beef every day of their lives. The 
 horse-radish should be planted in the south-east or south- 
 west corner of the outside garden, near to the hedge, and 
 it ought to be resolved to prevent its encroachments 
 beyond the boundaries of the spot originally allotted to it. 
 Every autumn, that part of the ground which has been 
 cleared during the year, which might be about one third 
 part of the piece, ought to be deeply dug and replanted 
 
V. HYSSOP, JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 
 
 as before j and thus there will be a succession of young 
 long roots j for, after the horse-radish has borne seed 
 once or twice, iti root becomes hard, brown on the out- 
 side, not juicy when it is scraped, and eats more like 
 little chips than like a garden vegetable : so that, at 
 taverns and eating-houses, there frequently seems to be 
 a rivalship on the point of toughness between the horse- 
 radish and the beef-steak j and it would be well if this 
 inconvenient rivalship never discovered itself any where 
 else. 
 
 153. HYSSOP is a sort of half-woody shrub, some- 
 thing between a tree and an herbaceous plant. The 
 flower-spikes are used, fresh or dry, for medicinal pur- 
 poses. It is propagated from seed or from oflfsets. A 
 very little of it is enough : a couple of plants in the 
 herb-bed may suffice for any family. 
 
 154. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.— This plant bears 
 at the root, like a potatoe, which, to the great misfortune 
 of many of the human race, is every where but too well 
 known. But, this artichoke, which is also dug up and 
 cooked like a potatoe, has, at any rate, the merit of giving 
 no trouble either in the cultivation or the propagation. 
 A handful of the .bits of its fruit, or even of its roots, 
 flung about a piece of ground of any sort, will keep 
 bearing for ever in spite of grass and weeds j the diffi- 
 culty being, not to get it to grow, but to get the ground 
 free from it when once it has taken to growing. It is a 
 very poor, insipid vegetable -, but, if you have a relish 
 for it, pray keep it out of the garden, and dig up the 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChApI 
 
 dorner of some field, or of some worthless meadow, and 
 throw some roots into it. 
 
 155. LAVENDER. — A beautiful little well-known 
 shrub of uses equally well-known, whether used in the 
 flower or in the water which is distilled from it. Like all 
 other plants and trees, it may be propagated from seed ; 
 but it is easiest propagated from slips, taken oflF early in 
 the spring, and planted in good moist "ground in the 
 shade. When planted out, the plants should stand three 
 feet apart. The flower-stalks should be cut off, whether 
 for preserving in flowers, or for distillation, before any of 
 the blossoms begin to fall oflF. Just, indeed, as those 
 blossoms begin to open wide. The lavender plant grows 
 large, and it should therefore be in the outer garden. 
 
 156. LEEK. — This is a plant, which, for certain pur- 
 poses, is preferred to onions. The time for sowing is as 
 early in the spring as the weather and the ground will 
 permit ; the latter end of February, or very early in 
 March. Sow in little drills made across a bed of fine 
 earth, put the rows eight inches asunder, and thin the 
 plants to three inches apart in the row. Keep the ground 
 clean by nice hoeing until the middle of July or there- 
 abouts J then take the plants up, cut the roots off" to an 
 inch long, and cut off the tops of the leaves, but not too 
 low down J make deep drills with a hoe at two feet 
 apart. Plant the leeks in these drills with a setting- 
 stick, fastening them well in the ground, and leaving the 
 drill open. As the plants grow, put to their sides the 
 earth that came out of the drill, after that, draw more up 
 to them on each side from the interval ; and, if your 
 
Vi LETTUCE. 
 
 ground be really good, as it ought to be, each leek will 
 be as big as your wrist in the month of October. They 
 will stand the winter perfectly well without any covering 
 at all J but, as a provision against hard frost, some plants 
 should always be taken up and put into earth or sand in 
 a shed or in a cellar, for the same reasons as those stated 
 under the head of Celery. Three or four leeks that have 
 stood the winter may be left at the end of one of the 
 rows, or, if you please, moved to another spot to produce 
 seed which would be ripe in the month of August, and 
 give you enough for yourself, and for two or three 
 neighbours. 
 
 157. LETTUCE.— This great article of the garden 
 is milky, refreshing, and pleasanter to a majority of 
 tastes than almost any other plant. So necessary is it 
 deemed as the principal ingredient of a good salad, that 
 it is, in France and America, generally called " Salad,'* 
 and scarcely ever by any other name. It is therefore a 
 thing worthy of particular attention, not only as to pro- 
 pagation and cultivation, but as to sorts. The way to 
 sow lettuce in the natural ground is this j make the 
 ground rich to begin with, draw the drills across the bed 
 fifteen inches apart, sow the seed thinly in these drills, 
 and press the earth nicely down upon them, which work 
 i to be done as early as you can do it well, in the month 
 of March. When the plants come up, thin them quickly 
 to four inches apart. When they get to be about four or 
 five inches high, leave one and take up two throughout 
 Jill the rows, and then hoe the ground nicely between 
 rfie remaining plants, having before-hand made another 
 bed to receive the plants thus taken up j plant these ia 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 rows across a bed, the rows fifteen inches apart and the 
 plants fifteen inches apart in the row : this is done with 
 a little setting stick with which you must carefully fix 
 the point of the root in the ground, as directed in the 
 case of the cabbage plant. Another sowing in April, 
 managed in just the same way, may be the last for the 
 summer ^ for, if sowed later, it is very rarely that the 
 plants will loave or be good for any thing. This is what 
 every man may do that has ground in sufficient quantity 
 and well-situated 3 but the lettuce is a thing which people 
 desire to have very early in the spring, and, if possible, 
 in the winter. To have lettuces to eat in the winter, they 
 must be sowed in August or September, in the natural 
 ground, in the manner before-described, and, in Novem- 
 ber, before they have been mauled by the frost, they must 
 be taken up without much disturbance of their roots, and 
 put into a pretty good hot-bed made for the purpose, the 
 mould for which ought to be eight inches deep, at the 
 least. They should be watered a little, at planting, should 
 stand nine inches apart every way, should be shaded from 
 the sun, if there be sun, for a couple of days, should then 
 have as much air given to them constantly as the weather will 
 permit, should be kept clear from rotten leaves and putri- 
 fied matter of every description, should have a lining to 
 the bed, if the weather require it, should, above all 
 things, have as much air as the weather will permit, and 
 should, however, be kept safe from being touched by the 
 frost. If all these things be attended to, and if the 
 season be not uncommonly adverse, you may have fine 
 lettuces by the latter end of December, and through the 
 months of January and February, an object the accom- 
 plishment of which would be insured by having a second 
 
V. LETTUCE. 
 
 bed made at the same time, to contain plants a fortnight 
 or three weeks younger. To have lettuces early in the 
 spring. You sow in August, or early in September, as 
 before, transplant the lettuces in October into the warmest 
 and best-sheltered spots that you have. In beds about 
 three feet wide with hoops and rods placed over the beds 
 soon enough, in order to cover with mats in severe 
 weather 3 or, instead of hoops and mats, cover with a 
 glass frame, and, in very sharp weather, with mats over 
 that -J but, whatever the covering may be, take it off, the 
 moment the weather will permit you to do it with safety. 
 There are, indeed, sorts of lettuce that will generally 
 stand the winter without any covering, in a warm place, 
 and especially on the south side of a wall. But these are 
 the flat sorts that bring round heads, and are poor, soft, 
 slimy things compared with the coss lettuces ; though 
 even these are better than none. The coss lettuces grow 
 upright, fold in their leaves like a sugar-loaf cabbage, 
 have a crispness and sweetness which the others have not. 
 If any of these, or, indeed, of any other sort of lettuce, have 
 stood uncovered until any part of January or February, 
 they may be then moved into a hot-bed, and will be very 
 fine in March : if left to stand in the ground, and kept 
 dear of slugs, they will still be a good deal earlier than 
 lettuces sowed in the spring, even if sowed in a hot-bed. 
 But, with all these means, so few can generally be had 
 early in the spring, that, for general use j that is to say, 
 for kitchen-gardeners to get them for tradesmen's 
 families pretty early in May, they must be first raised in a 
 hot-bed, sowed there early in March, or late in February, 
 or sowed under glass upon cold earth, in the fall of the 
 year, and preserved as mere plants to plant out, having 
 
klTCHEN'GARDEK PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 been kept from the frost and the wet during the winter. 
 This sowing takes place in September j the lights ar^ 
 placed in such a way as to let no wet get into the frames ; 
 the lights are taken oflP entirely in mild weather j a great 
 deal of air is given j and, in March, these plants are fit to 
 go out into the natural ground, where they are sometimes 
 injured by the frost, but generally they are not. This is 
 the way in which the great crop of early lettuces is 
 generally raised j and, that it is the best way, the long 
 experience of the market gardeners has amply proved. 
 As to the sorts of lettuces, the greeji coss and the white 
 coss are the best : the former is of a darker green than 
 the latter, is rather hardier and not quite so good. Among 
 the Jiat sorts are the brown Dutch, the green cabbage, and 
 the tennis-ball : there are many other sorts, as well of 
 upright as of flat, but it would be useless to enumerate 
 them, as it would only bewilder the reader in his choice. 
 As to the saving of the seed, half a dozen plants that 
 have stood the winter will be quite enough. The seed 
 will be ripe in August; birds must be kept from it, or 
 they will have all the best before you gather it. The 
 stalks ought to be cut off and laid, till they be perfectly 
 dry, in the sun, the seed then put away in a perfectly dry 
 place, and in a place where no mice can get at it j for, if 
 they get at it, not one good seed will they leave you in a 
 very short time. 
 
 150. MANGEL WURZEL. — This may be called 
 cattle-beet ; but some persons plant it in gardens. It is a 
 eoarse beet, and is cultivated and preserved as the beet is. 
 
 ^ 159. MARJORAM. — One sort is annual and one per- 
 
V. MARIGOLD, MELON. 
 
 ennial. The former is call Summer and the latter Winter; 
 The first sowed as early as possible in the spring j and, 
 the latter propagated by offsets ; that is, by parting the roots. 
 The plants may stand pretty close. As the winter sort 
 cannot sometimes be got at in winter, some of both ought 
 to be preserved by drying. Cut itju&t before it comes out into 
 bloom, hang it up in little bunches to dry, first, for a day, 
 ill the sun j then in the shade ; and, when quite dry, put 
 it in paper-bags, tied up, and the bags hung up in a dry 
 place. 
 
 160. MARIGOLD.— An annual plant. Sow the seed 
 in spring j when the bloom is at full, gather the flowers ; 
 pull the leaves of the flower out of their sockets j lay 
 them on paper to dry, in the shade. When dry, put them 
 into paper-bags. They are excellent in broths and soups 
 and stews. Two square yards planted with marigolds will 
 be sufficient. It is the single marigold that ought to be 
 cultivated for culinary purposes. The double one is an 
 ornamental flower, and a very mean one indeed. 
 
 161. MELON. — The melon is a hot-country plant, and 
 must be raised in England in precisely the same manner 
 as directed for early cucumbers, the rules laid down for 
 which apply here equally well in every respect, except 
 two 5 namely, that the lights for melons should be larger 
 or more extensive than those for cucumbers j and that 
 the earth for melons should not be light and loose, as in 
 the case of cucumbers, but should consist chiefly of very 
 stiff loam. The finest plants of melons that I ever saw 
 were raised in stiff loam, approaching to a clay, which 
 bad been dug out before, and turned three or four times 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 in a heap, mixed with dung from a sheep-yard, about one 
 fifth dung and four- fifths loam. This loam should be 
 turned in a heap several times during one summer and 
 one winter, and then it is fit for use. You should begin 
 to raise melons a month or six weeks later than you begin 
 with early cucumbers. Your seeds may be sowed in a pot 
 in the cucumber- bed, if you have one j if not, you must 
 make one for the purpose, as in the case of the early cu- 
 cumbers J though the season when you begin will be later, 
 the bed must be equally warm with that for the early 
 cucumbers j there must be linings, and every thing neces- 
 sary to keep up a steady bottom heat. A second crop of 
 melons may succeed the first, in the same way that the 
 two crops of cucumbers succeed each other ; but, as to 
 putting melons out upon ridges to be covered with hand- 
 glasses or paper-frames, it never succeeds, one time out 
 of twenty. Melons want hotter ground than is hardly 
 ever to be had in England. There should be but one 
 plant in a hill. 1 have had ten fine melons from one 
 single plant, and I never saw the like of that from any 
 hill that contained two or three plants. If once the plants 
 get spindling, they never bear fruit of any size or good- 
 ness. You will see many fruit appear before any one 
 begins to swell. If a solitary one should begin to swell 
 before the vines have got to any extent, pinch it off^ for, 
 if left on, it will generally prevent the plant from bear- 
 ing any more. There should be three or four upon a 
 plant beginning to swell together, or about- the same 
 time, in order to encourage you to expect a fine crop. 
 Melons are very frequently raised, as pines sometimes 
 are, in pits, with foundations for frames built upon the 
 ground, or, going a little way beneath the top of the 
 
V. MELO?I. 
 
 ground. Upon these walls a wooden coping is fixed, and 
 across this coping, the lights slide up and down. These 
 are very convenient places for melons j but, as they do 
 not enter into the plan of my garden, it would be useless 
 to take up the time of the reader with a more particular 
 description of them. When the fruit of the melon is per- 
 ceived to be fairly swelling, a piece of glass or of tile 
 should be laid under each fruit to keep it out of the dirt, 
 and, indeed, to add a little to the heat that it would receive 
 from the sun j for, melons require heat from the sun as 
 well as heat from the earth 5 and, take what pains we will, 
 we have never fine melons in a shady or wet summer. As 
 to the sorts of melons, some are finer than others, and some 
 come into bearing sooner than others. In speaking of 
 sorts, I cannot do better than to take the list from the 
 Hortus Kewensis, written by Mr. Aiton, gardener to the 
 King J for, surely, that which contents his Majesty, may 
 very well content any of us. This list is as follows : Early 
 Can'aleupe, Early Leopard, Early Polignac, Early Romana, 
 Green -Jleshed Netted, Green -Jleshed Rock, Bosses early Rock, 
 Black Rock, Silver Rock, Scarlet -Jieahed Rock. In America, 
 they divide the melons into two sorts which are wholly 
 distinct from each other : one they call the Musk Melon; 
 that is to say, any melon which belongs to the tribe of 
 those that we cultivate here, and they call these musk 
 melons because they have a musky smell. The othef 
 species they call the Water Melon, which has no smell, 
 which never turns yellow, which is always of a deep green, 
 in the inside of which, instead of being a fleshy pulp, is 
 a sort of pink-coloured snow, which melts in the mouth. 
 This melon very frequently weighs from twenty to forty 
 pounds, and is not deemed much of a fruit unless it. 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 weigh fifteen or sixteen. I raised some of these once 
 very well at Botley from seed that was brought from 
 Malta. They are a totally diflferent thing from the other 
 tribe; and, being so much better, I have often won- 
 dered that, where people have great space under 
 glass, and great heat at command, they do not raise them 
 in England. There is only one fine musk melon that I 
 ever saw in America ; which is called the citron melon, 
 having the flesh nearly white and being of the shape of 
 a lemon. The mode of cultivating the water-melon is the 
 same as that of cultivating the other ; but it requires 
 more room. If you wish to save the seed of melons, 
 you must take it out when you eat the fruit, and do with 
 it precisely as is directed in the case of the cucumber 
 seed ; but, to have the seed true to its kind, it must not 
 be saved on a spot near to that in which grow, and have 
 blowed, cucumbers, squashes, pumpkins, or any thing of 
 that sort ; nor on a spot where any other sort of melon 
 has been in bloom at the same time. The greatest pos- 
 sible care must be taken in this respect, or you will have 
 fruit quite different from that which you expect. 
 
 162. MINT. — There are two sorts : one is of a darker 
 green than the other : the former is called pepper-mint, 
 and is generally used for distilling to make mint water : 
 the latter, which is called spear-mint, is used for the table, 
 in many ways. The French snip a little into their salads ; 
 we boil a bunch amongst green peas, to which it gives a 
 pleasant flavour j chopped up small, and put, along with 
 sugar, into vinegar, we use it as a sauce for roasted lamb ; 
 and a very pleasant sauce it is. Mint may be propagated 
 from seed ; but, a few bits of its roots will spread into a 
 
V. MUSHROOM. 
 
 bed in a year. To have it in winter, preserve it precisely 
 like marjoram (which see), and, instead of chopping it for 
 sauce, crumble it between your fingers. 
 
 163. MUSHROOM.— This is one of a numerous tribe 
 of funguses -, but it is the only one that is cultivated for 
 culinary purposes, and this one is scarcely ever seen in 
 any gardens but those of noblemen, or gentlemen of for- 
 tune. In their gardens It is cultivated in order to be had 
 at all times of the year, for every body knows, that, in most 
 parts of England, it comes up spontaneously in the mea- 
 dows and elsewhere. It is cultivated no how but in hot- 
 beds ; but there in two distinct ways. The first, is, on hot- 
 beds out of doors, and the hot-bed is made and managed 
 in the manner that I will now describe. Take stable 
 dung that is not fresh and fiery, or, if you have no other, 
 mix with it an equal quantity of old hot-bed lining, throw 
 it together in a long ridge, where rains will not fall on it, 
 to ferment, and, in about three weeks it will be ready for 
 use. Then take and mark out the outline of the base of 
 your bed, just as I directed in my instructions about hot- 
 beds in Chapter III.'j but, as this one is to go up in a 
 sloping direction on both sides like the roof of a house, 
 you need not have the upright stakes nor the edge-boards 
 that I there recommended. Three or four feet will be 
 quite wide enough. The length you regulate according 
 to the quantity of mushrooms that you wish to grow. 
 Begin, then, with your bed, shaking the dung up well, 
 and, if it be long, beating it well, just as in the case of 
 the cucumber-bed, only keep drawing it in by degrees 
 till you have it in the shape of the roof of a house : beat 
 it on the top as- you carry it up, but, particularly, beat it 
 
KITCHKN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 at the sides, for there you will want it to be perfectly 
 even and firm. Having finished it, you will guard it from 
 rains and from the sun by covering it over with long 
 straw, old thatch, or mats ; for it must be neither too 
 wet nor too dry. Let it remain in this way a week, or 
 till you find, by forcing your fore-finger down into it, 
 that the heat is moderate. Then put on a layer of fresh 
 mould to about an inch thick. In this you will stick little 
 pieces of spawn of mushrooms at about eight inches 
 apart every way. Cover over these with mould to about 
 another inch in thickness, and pat it down nicely with a 
 spade 3 and still keep the covering of straw or matting 
 over the whole b6d as before, for neither wet nor sun 
 must get to it immoderately. Success now greatly depends 
 . on the proper moisture of the bed. If in summer time, 
 take off the covering now and then to admit of gentle 
 showers falling on it ; or, if in a very dry season, water 
 now and then. But, if in winter, keep out the cold at all 
 times. The in-doors method of cultivating mushrooms was 
 introduced to this country from Germany. It is usually 
 by means of a small house in any awkward, or out-of-the- 
 way corner of the garden, about ten or twelve feet wide 
 and twenty or thirty feet long. With a fire-place on the 
 outside of one end, and a flue going from it straight down 
 ^- under the middle of the floor of the house and back again 
 to the fire-place ; with one door, and two or three small 
 windows, which latter are generally kept shut close with 
 unglazed shutters. All along the two sides of this house 
 are shelves arranged in three tiers, one close to the 
 bottom, another at about three feet up, and another at 
 about six feet up, and these shelves are about three feet 
 in breadth, made of good stout plank, with a front board 
 
V. MUSHROOM. 
 
 of nine or ten inches depth to keep in the dung and the 
 earth. Whoever has seen the births in a barrack-room, 
 or in the state-room of a ship, has seen precisely what 
 the shelves of a German mushroom-house are. These 
 shelves are to be filled with the dung or compost in 
 which you are to plant your mushroom spawn, and, as to 
 preparing compost, you proceed in this manner : take a 
 quantity of fresh horse dung, with as little long litter as 
 possible 5 the less the better -, that has not been exposed 
 to wet and that has not fermented 3 mix it with a fourth 
 part of fresh mould, and, if you can, get the scrapings 
 of a horse-track of a mill-house of any sort j mix all 
 well together, and, in your shelves, or in as many of 
 them as you mean to put to work at once, put a layer six 
 inches thick of this mixture, beating it down as hard as 
 you can with a wooden bat. This will reduce it down to 
 the thinness of four inches, or less. Then put in another 
 layer, rather less thick, and beat that down in the same 
 way 3 observing that, towards the wall at the back part 
 of your shelf, you can afiford to increase the thickness of 
 your layers, as there is the wall to support them 3 and 
 the thicker you make these layers, the stronger will be 
 the bed. Having done this, observe the fermentation 
 from day to day, as it goes on, and when it is palpably 
 on the decline, make a parcel of holes in the compost at 
 from six to nine inches asunder, and put in the spawn j 
 and then cover it over with a covering of mould about an 
 inch thick. Water may be given out of a very fine-rosed 
 watering pot, when the weather is very warm, and then 
 it is recommended to scatter a little straw over first, and 
 water on that, the mushroom being inclined to rot from 
 any over quantity of moisture, however little. These 
 i2 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. CuAP. 
 
 beds are not generally of long duration, but particularly 
 those in the shelves. From eight to twelve weeks may 
 be looked upon as a good duration, and, therefore, to 
 have mushrooms continually, there must be renewals of 
 the beds, in the house and out of the house ; but a very 
 little attention brings it to a regular system in the in-door 
 method. The times when the vegetation of this fungus 
 is most successful, are, the spring and fall, as with every 
 vegetable. To procure spawn, you need only apply to 
 the seedsmen, almost all of whom sell it j but you may 
 procure it and propagate it yourself, by bestowing a little 
 care and attention on it. Dig up, in August or Septem- 
 ber, a parcel of mushrooms, taking a good three or four 
 handfuls of the earth immediately round them j you will 
 find a quantity of small bulbs, as it were, of mushrooms, 
 and of stuff like coarse thread. Put this in ridges on an 
 old cucumber bed, and keep off heavy rains, and, when 
 you find that these have extended themselves, and are 
 formed into a quantity of mouldy looking flakes, take 
 them up and keep them in any dry place till you want 
 them, when you plant little pieces of the size of the top 
 of your thumb, or a little bigger. There is some danger 
 of mistaking other funguses (and less innocent ones) for 
 mushrooms, therefore, observe that the mushroom comes 
 up precisely in the form of a little round white button, 
 ■which gradually opens itself, till, if permitted to stand 
 long enough, it becomes almost flat on the top. It is 
 white everywhere but on the under side of the crown, 
 which is of a pale red, becoming of a brownish colour as 
 it advances in age. I cannot conclude without observ- 
 ing that some of these funguses are deemed extremely 
 unwholesome 5 some people even think them poisonous. 
 
V. MUSTARD. 
 
 and that the mushroom is only the least noxious. I once 
 ate about three spoonsful at table at Mr. Timothy 
 Brown's at Peckham, which had been cooked, I suppose, 
 in the usual way j but 1 had not long eaten them before 
 ray whole body, face, hands and all, was covered with 
 red spots or pimples, and to such a degree, and coming 
 on so fast, that the doctor who attended the family was 
 sent for. He thought nothing of it, gave me a little 
 draught of some sort, and the pimples went away j but 
 I attributed it then to the mushrooms. The next year, I 
 had mushrooms in my own garden at Botley> and I de- 
 termined to try the experiment whether they would have 
 the same effect again ; but, not liking to run any risk, I 
 took only a tea-spoonful, or rather, a French coffee- 
 spoonful, which is larger than a common tea-spoon. 
 They had just the same effect, both as to sensation and 
 outward appearance ! From that day to this, I have 
 never touched mushrooms, for I conclude that there 
 must be something poisonous in that which will so 
 quickly produce the effects that I have described, and on 
 a healthy and hale body like mine ; and, therefore, I do 
 not advise any one to cultivate these things. 
 
 164. MUSTARD. — There is a white-seeded sort and a 
 hrown-seeded. The white mustard is used in salads along 
 with the cress, or pepper-grass, and is sowed and cultivated 
 in the same way (see Cress). The black is that which 
 the Jlour is made of for table -use. It is sowed in rows 
 at two feet apart, early in the spring. The plants ought 
 to be thinned to four or five inches apart. Good tillage 
 between the rows is necessary. The seed will be ripe in 
 
KITCHE.V-GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 July, and then the stalks should be cut off, and, when 
 quite dry, the seed threshed out, and put by for use. 
 
 165. NASTURTIUM.— An annual plant, with a half- 
 red half-yellow llower, which has an oflfensive smell j but 
 it bears a seed enveloped in a fleshy pod, and that pod, 
 taken before the seed becomes ripe, is used as a thing to 
 pickle. The seed should be sowed very early in the 
 spring. The plants should have pretty long bushy sticks 
 put to them ; and four or five of them will bear a great 
 quantity of pods. They will grow in almost any ground j 
 but, the better the ground the fewer of them are necessary. 
 
 166. ONION. — This is one of the main vegetables. 
 Its uses are many, and they are all well known. The 
 modes of cultivation for crop are various. Three I shall 
 mention, and by either a good crop may be raised. Sow 
 early in March. Let the ground be rich, but not from 
 fresh dung. Make the ground very fine -, make the rows 
 a foot apart, and scatter the seed thinly along a drill two 
 inches deep. Then fill in the drills ; and then press the 
 earth down upon the seed by treading the ground all over. 
 Then give the ground a very slight smoothing over with a 
 rake. When the plants get to be three inches high, thin 
 them to four inches, or to eight inches, if you wish to 
 have very large onions. Keep the ground clear of weeds 
 by hoeing ; but, do not hoe deep, nor raise earth about the 
 j)lantsj for these make them run to neck and not to 
 bulb. When the tips of the leaves begin to be brown, 
 bend down the necks, so that the leaves lie flat with the 
 ground. When the leaves are nearly dead, pull up the 
 onions, and lay them to dry, in order to be put away for 
 
 I 
 
V. OXION. 
 
 winter use. Some persons, instead of sowing the onions 
 all along the drill, drop four or five seeds at every six or 
 seven inches distance j and leave the onions to grow thus, 
 in clumps ; and this is not a bad way j for, they will 
 squeeze each other out. They will not be large ; but, they 
 will be ripe earlier, and will not run to neck. The third 
 mode of cultivation is as follows : sow the onions any 
 time between mid-May and mid-June, in drills six inches 
 apart, and put the seed very thick along the drills. Let 
 all the plants stand, and they will get to be about as big 
 round as the top of your little finger. Then the leaves 
 will get yellow, and, when that is the case, pull up the 
 onions and lay them on a board, till the sun have withered 
 up the leaves. Then take these diminutive onions, put 
 them in a bag, and hang them up in a dry place till 
 spring, taking the biggest for pickles. As soon as the 
 frost is gone, and the ground dry, plant out these onions 
 in good and fine ground, in rows a foot apart. Make, not 
 drills, but little marks along the ground j and put the 
 onions at six or eight inches apart. Do not cover them 
 with the earth ; but just press them down upon the mark 
 with your thumb and fore finger. The ground ought to 
 be trodden and slightly raked again before you make the 
 marks i for no earth should rise up about the plants. Pro- 
 ceed after this as with sowed onions ; only observe, that, 
 if any should be running up to seed, you must twist down 
 the neck a& soon as you perceive it. But, observe this : 
 the shorter the time that these onions have been in the 
 ground the year before, the less likely will they be to run 
 to seed. This is the sure way of having a large and early 
 crop of onions. Preserving onions is an easy matter. 
 Frost never hurts them, unless you move them during the 
 
KITCHEX-GARDEN-PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 time that they are frozen. Any dry, aify place will, there- 
 fore, do. They should not be kept in a warm place j for 
 they will heat and grow. The neatest way is to tie them 
 up in ropes ; that is to say, to tie them round sticks, or 
 straight straw, with matting. For seed, pick out the 
 Jinest onions, and plant them out in rich land, in the 
 spring. To grow this seed upon a large scale, plough 
 the land into four feet ridges, lay plenty of dung along 
 the furrows, plough the ground back over the dung, 
 flatten the top of the ridge a little, and put along, on the 
 top of the ridge two rows of onions, the rows seven 
 inches apart, and the onions seven inches apart in the 
 rows. When the weeds come, hoe the tops of the ridges 
 with a small hoe, and plough first from and then to the 
 ridges, two or three times, at the distance of two or three 
 weeks. When the seed is ripe, cut off tlie heads and 
 collect them in such a way as not to scatter the seed. 
 Lay them, on cloths, in the sun, till dry as dust ; and 
 then thresh out the seed, winnow it, and put it away. 
 The seed will be dead ripe in August, and turnips or 
 early York cabbages, or even Kidney dwarf beans, may 
 follow upon the same ground, the same year. In a 
 garden there always ought to be a crop to succeed seed- 
 onions the same summer. There are several sorts of 
 onions, of which the red is the hardiest and the hottest, 
 and the white the tenderest and the mildest, and the best 
 for pickling. The straw-coloured sort is, perhaps^ the 
 best for a main crop. 
 
 167. PARSLEY. — Known to every human being to 
 bear its seed the second year, and, after that, to die away. 
 It may be sowed at any season when the frost is out of the 
 
 J 
 
V. PARSNIP. 
 
 ground. The best way is to sow it in spring, and in very 
 clean ground -, because the seed lies long in the ground, 
 and, if the ground be foul, the weeds choke the plants at 
 their coming up. A bed of six feet long and four wide, 
 the seeds sowed in drills at eight inches apart, is enough 
 for any family in the world. This would be enough about 
 parsley -, but people want it all the year round. There 
 are some winters that will destroy it completely if it be 
 wholly unprotected, and there are no means of preserv- 
 ing it dry in the manner which has been directed for 
 other herbs. Therefore, if you perceive sharp weather 
 approaching, lay some peas-haulm or straw, not very 
 thickly, over the bed, and do not take it off until after 
 the] thaw has completely taken place. The rotting of 
 vegetables is occasioned by thawing in the light, more 
 than by the frost. When the thaw has completely taken 
 place, the peas-haulm or the straw may be taken away, 
 and, by these means, parsley may be safely kept through 
 any winter that we have in England ; for it can be thus 
 kept even in America, where the frost goes down into 
 the ground full four feet. 
 
 168. PARSNIP.— As to the season of sowing, sort of 
 land, preparation of ground, distances, and cultivation 
 and tillage, precisely the same as the Carrot. But, as to 
 preservation during winter, and for spring use, the Parsnip 
 stands all frost without injury, and even with benefit. So 
 that, all you want is to put up for winter as many as you 
 are likely to want during a hard frost, and these you may 
 put up in the same manner as directed for carrots and 
 beets. If the parsnips be to stand out in the ground all 
 the winter, the greens should not be cut off in the fall. 
 I 5 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP, 
 
 To save the seed of the parsnip, let four or five of the 
 plants stand through the next summer, or remove them 
 to a more convenient spot. They will bear a great quan- 
 tity of seed. When it turns ripe, cut the seed stalk off, 
 lay it upon a cloth in the sun until perfectly dry j then 
 take oflF the seed, put it in a paper bag, and put it in a 
 very dry place : it keeps well for only one year. 
 
 169. PEA. — This is one of those vegetables which all 
 people like. From the greatest to the smallest of gar- 
 dens, we always find peas, not to mention the thousands 
 of acres which are grown in fields for the purpose of 
 being eaten by the gardenless people of the towns. 
 Where gardening is carried on upon a royal, or almost 
 royal scale, peas are raised by means of artificial heat, in 
 order to have them here at the same time that they have 
 them in Portugal, which is in the months of December 
 and January. Beneath this royal state, however, the next 
 thing is to have them in the nat;iral ground as early as 
 possible ; and that may be, sometimes by the middle of 
 May, and hardly ever later than about the first week of 
 June. The late king, George the Third, reigned so long, 
 that his birth- day formed a^ sort of season with gar- 
 deners ; and, ever since I became a man, I can recol- 
 lect that it was always deemed rather a sign of bad gar- 
 dening if there were not green peas in the garden fit to 
 gather on the fourth of June. It is curious that green 
 peas are to be had as early in Long Island, and in the 
 sea-board part of the state of New Jersey, as in England, 
 though not sowed there, observe, until very late in April, 
 while our's, to be very early, must be sowed in thci month 
 of December or January. It is still more curious, that. 
 
V . PEA. 
 
 such is the eflFect of habit and tradition, that, even when 
 I was last in America (1819), people talked just as 
 familiarly as in England about having green peas on the 
 King's birth-day, and were just as ambitious for accom- 
 plishing the object j and I remember a gentleman who had 
 been a republican officer during the Revolutionary War, 
 who told me that he always got in his garden green-peas 
 fit to eat on old Uncle George's birth-day. This, however, is 
 the general season for the coming in of green-peas in 
 England J but, to have them at this season, the very 
 earliest sort must be sowed j they must be sowed, too, 
 in November, or as soon after as the weather will per- 
 mit, and they must be sowed on the South-side of a wall, 
 or of a very close and warm hedge, the ground not being 
 wet in its nature by any means. The frosts will be very 
 apt to cut them oflF, and, if the weather be mild, they 
 will be apt to get so forward as to be cut oflf in January 
 or February. They should, therefore, be kept earthed 
 up a little on both sides -, and, if hard frosts approach, they 
 should be covered with peas-haulm or straw, and these 
 should be taken oflf as soon as the thaw has completely taken 
 place. It will not do to place the row of peas nearer than 
 about four feet distance from the wall, because, they grow 
 high, and they would interfere with, and do injury to, 
 the fruit trees. Three or four rows of the very earliest 
 peas might be in the border e, on the south side of the 
 wall. Some more rows might be in the outer garder c, 
 on the south side of the wall there. The whole of these 
 borders need not be devoted to this purpose, but only 
 such part of them as would be deemed requisite. A 
 second sowing should take place a month or six weeks 
 after the first j but this may take place across the plat 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 b or g. Sow again early in March, and, then, once in a 
 month or three weeks, until the end of May. Too many 
 should not be sowed at a time, and less of the tall sorts 
 than of the low sorts. The manner of sowing peas is 
 the same in all cases. You make a drill with a hoe, three 
 inches deep, in ground as rich as you can make it, sow 
 the peas along not too thick, put back upon them the 
 earth that came out of the drill, and tread it down with 
 your feet pretty nearly as hard as you can, and then, 
 especially in winter time, keep a sharp look out after the 
 mice. VV^hen the peas come up, you ought, in all cases, 
 to hoe the ground nicely about them, and draw a little 
 earth to them even immediately, drawing up more and 
 more earth on each side as the plants advance in height, 
 until you have, at last, a little ridge, the top of which 
 would be six or seven inches above the level of the 
 ground ; this not only keeps them upright, but supplies 
 them with food for roots that will shoot out of the stems 
 of the plants. Peas must have sticks, and these sticks 
 must be proportioned to the height which the sorts re- 
 spectively generally attain. For the early -frame pea, two 
 feet and a half, or three feet, above the ground, is suffi- 
 cient } for the next in height, four or five feet. For 
 the tall sorts, from six to eight, and even nine 
 feet. The distances at which the rows are to be sowed 
 must be somewhat in proportion to these heights, the 
 smaller peas may stand at three feet apart, but the taller 
 ones, and especially the tall ones of all, ought to be at 
 six or seven feet apart at the least. You get nothing 
 by crowding them, nor do you get any thing by 
 sowing double instead of single rows of peas. If you 
 try it, you will find that a single plant standing 
 
V. PEA. 
 
 out away from all others, will produce more fruit 
 than any six plants standing in a common single row, 
 though the soil be the same, and though the stick be 
 of the same height. This is enough to convince any one 
 of the mischievous effects of crowding. If you plant 
 the taller peas at distances too close, or, indeed, any peas, 
 the rows shade one another ; there will be no fruit except 
 just at the top, that part of the plant which should bear 
 early will not bear at all, those that come at top will be 
 pods only about half full ; and, if you plant tall peas so 
 close, and with sticks so short as to cause the wet to bend 
 the heads of the plants down, you will literally have no 
 fruit at all, a thing which I have seen take place a hun- 
 dred times in my life-time. My Gardener had once 
 sowed, while I was from home, a piece of garden with 
 the tall marrowfat pea, and had put the rows at about 
 three feet apart. I saw them just after they came up. 
 The ground was such as was very good, and which 
 I knew would send the peas up very high ; I told 
 him to take his hoe and cut up every other row ; but 
 they looked so fine and he was so obstinate, that I let 
 them remain, and made him sow some more at seven 
 feet apart very near to the same place, telling him that 
 there never could be a pea there, and that, if it so turned 
 out, never to attempt to have his own way again. Both 
 the patches of peas were sticked in due time, they both 
 grew very fine and lofty j but his patch began to get 
 together at the top, and just about the time that the pods 
 were an inch long, there came a heavy rain, smashed 
 the whole of them down into one mass, and there never 
 was a single pea gathered from the patch, while the other 
 patch, the single rows of which were seven feet apart. 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 produced an uncommonly fine and lasting crop. The 
 destroyed patch of peas was however of precious 
 advantage j for it made me the master of my gardener, 
 a thing that happens to very few owners of gardens. 
 A sufficient distance is one of the greatest things in the 
 raising of peas, whether they be sticked or whether 
 they be not ; and they never ought to be sowed too 
 thickly in the row. I never tried it, but I verily believe 
 that a row of peas each plant being at two or three inches 
 distance from the other, would bear a greater crop 
 than if sowed in the usual way. At any rate, never 
 sow too thick, on any account, at any time of the year. 
 As to sorts of peas, the earliest is the early-frame, then 
 comes the early- char Iton, then the blue-prussian and the 
 hotspur, then the dwarf- marrowfat, then the tall-marrowfat, 
 then knight's pea. There are several others, but here are 
 quite enough for any garden in the world. If all these 
 tall sorts be sowed in March, and some more of them 
 again in April, not too many at a time, they will come 
 in, one after another, and will keep up a regular succes- 
 sion until about the latter end of July, or even later. 
 After this, all peas become mildewed and their fruit good 
 for very little. As to saving the seed of peas, it is impos- 
 sible to do it well in a kitchen garden, where you must 
 jJways have more than one sort of pea in bloom at the 
 same time. If you be very curious about this matter, 
 you must sow somewhere in the corner of a field, and not 
 gather any of the peas to eat -, but let them all stand to 
 ripen. When ripe, they are to be threshed out and put 
 by in a dry place. Peas want no watering, but there 
 should be a good digging between the rows just about 
 the time that the bloom begins to appear, for that fur- 
 
V. PENNYROYAL, POTATOE. 
 
 nishes new food to the roots at the time When it is most 
 wanted. Great care must be taken to keep slugs and 
 snails away from peas ; for if they get amongst them 
 and are let alone for a very little while, they bite the 
 whole oflP, and they never sprout again to any good pur- 
 pose. 
 
 170. PENNYROYAL.-— A medicinal herb, that is pe- 
 rennial. It is also used for some few culinary purposes. 
 A little patch, a foot square, in the herb bed, is quite 
 sufficient. You must keep this patch well cut oiF round 
 the edges ; for, one root, if left alone for a summer, 
 will extend over two or three yards square in good 
 ground. 
 
 171. POTATOE.— I am going to speak here of this 
 vegetable, as a thing to be used merely in company with 
 meat j and not to be used as a substitute for breads having 
 proved, in various parts of my w^ritings, and proved it 
 beyond all contradiction, that, as a substitute for bread, it 
 is the most wasteful thing that can possibly be used. It 
 has, too, now been acknowledged by various writers, and 
 it has been established by evidence taken before com- 
 mittees of the House of Commons, that, to raise potatoes 
 fpr the purpose of being used instead of bread, is a thing 
 mischievous to the nation. As a substitute for bread, 
 therefore, I speak not of the fruit of this plant. As food 
 for cattle, or pigs, I know it to be inferior to cabbages, to 
 swedish-turnips, to mangel-wurzel, and to be much more 
 expensive, weight for weight, than either of those arti- 
 cles. I know of no animal that will even live for any 
 length of time, upon uncooked potatoes, while I .know 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 that sheep and horned cattle will live, and even fat, to a 
 certain extent, upon either cabbages, mangel-wurzel, 
 or Swedish turnips j and, while I know that pigs will 
 live and thrive upon either of these articles, neither of 
 which, weight for weight, demand half the expense that 
 the potatoes demand. As a mere vegetable, or sauce, as 
 the coimtry people call it, it does very well to qualify 
 the effects of fat meat, or to assist in the swallowing of 
 quantities of butter. There appears to be nothing un- 
 wholesome about it, and, when the sort is good, it is pre- 
 ferred by many people to some other vegetables of the 
 coarser kind ; and though I never eat of it myself, find- 
 ing so many other things far preferable to it, I think it 
 right to give directions for the cultivation of the plant 
 upon a scale suitable to a gentleman's garden. There 
 are an infinite variety of sorts. The skin of some of 
 which is red, that of others of a whitish yellow 
 colour: the first are denominated red potatoes, and the 
 latter white. The red potatoes are of the coarser 
 kinds, as are also several of the white. Those who 
 plant these things in gardens and for their own use, will 
 not plant the coarse ones. I shall speak of only three 
 sorts. First, of a little round white potatoe, which comes 
 very early, or rather, is but a very short time in coming 
 to perfection. The second sort are called ladies-Jingers, 
 being long and about an inch through when in their 
 usual full size, and these also are white. The other sort 
 are called kidney -potatoes, which grow to a pretty large 
 size, are flat, and very much in the shape of a kidney. 
 This is the sort which is planted for the main crop to be 
 preserved during the winter. They have generally a 
 small pan at one end of them of a reddish purple colour. 
 
\'. PpTATOE. 
 
 which is the sign of their genuine quality. As to the 
 .<planting and cultivation of potatoes, they are, in the 
 fields, laid along a little trench made by the plough, then 
 covered with manure of some sort, and then covered 
 over with a furrow of earth. Some people lay the po- 
 tatoe upon the manure, in place of under it. In a garden 
 the ground ought to be rich enough to bear potatoes 
 without any manure at all ; for the manure, though it 
 ' adds to the number of potatoes, makes the size of them 
 ' very various, and, as in all other cases^ gives a strong 
 taste to the vegetable. Drills made with a hoe three 
 feet apart and four inches deep, the sets laid along the 
 drill at eight inches apart, then covered over with the 
 earth that came out of the drill and trod down with the 
 foot, are sufficient for the planting. But, care must be 
 taken to prepare the sets properly. The potatoe must be 
 cut in pieces, and there must be but one eye, or two at 
 most, left to each piece. A very small part of the pulp 
 is necessary to be left. It is the eye only which grows, 
 and, if a potatoe were peeled pretty deeply, the peeling 
 itself would do ; and it is a common practice amongst 
 the poorer people, to eat the potatoe and plant bits of the 
 peelings. As to the cultivation, as soon as the plants are 
 up, and are three inches high, the whole of the ground 
 should be flat-hoed, and should be carefully moved close 
 to the stems of the plants. When the plants get to be 
 seven or eight inches high, they should have earth drawn 
 up to their stems with a hoe, going along the interval 
 and drawing the earth from the middle to form little 
 ridges about four inches high. As the plants advance in 
 height, more earth should be drawn up to them, and 
 .when they are about a foot high above the top of the 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 ridge, the intervals should be well dug with a spade, and 
 the earth well broken. After this, a little more earth 
 should be drawn up to the plants, the beads of which 
 would begin to fall down and spread about, and, all that 
 will be wanted in future, will be to pull out any weeds 
 that appear. In the fall of the year, the leaves will drop 
 off and the haulm will die j and, when this death of the 
 haulm takes place, the potatoes should be dug up. I am 
 now speaking of the kidney potatoes which are to be 
 kept for winter use ', and they should not be planted too 
 early ; because they will be ripe too early in the fall, 
 and will not keep so well through the winter, and until 
 the spring. The last week in April, or the first, or even 
 the second, week in May is qui^e soon enough to plant. 
 The crop will then be fit to take up in the latter end of 
 October, which is quite soon enough. When taken up, 
 they should, if the weather will permit, be suffered to 
 dry in the sun 5 all the dirt should be rubbed clean from 
 them ) they should then be placed in a cellar, in a barn, 
 or in some place to which no frost can approach : if you 
 can ascertain the degree of warmth just necessary to 
 keep a baby from perishing from cold, you know pre- 
 cisely the precautions required to preserve a potatoe 
 above-ground 3 for, under ground, they will lie safe and 
 sound during the whole winter, if placed individually, if 
 the yiosi do not actually reach them. I know of no other seed 
 or root J I know of no apple even ; I know of no loaved 
 cabbage, that will not bear freezing, if covered over with the 
 ground. I have, this year, had a piece of ground, in which 
 potatoes (planted by my predecessor) grew last year, cover- 
 ed over twenty times by the over-flowings of the Thames, 
 and when this piece of ground was dug up in the spring. 
 
v. POTATOE. 
 
 the potatoes were as sound and as fresh as ever. We 
 did not perceive one single rotten potatoe in the whole 
 piece. There was a great quantity, and the men who 
 dug the ground, took them home to eat. But, if above 
 ground, your care must be great, especially if the heap 
 be considerable. There must be no rotten ones, and no cut 
 or broken ones. The heap may ferment, and then rotten- 
 ness will come : you must therefore be careful to turn it 
 over frequently and pick out every thing approaching to- 
 wards rottenness. Potatoes are frequently kept in heaps 
 formed in a conical shape on the ground, and covered over 
 with straw and earth 3 but this is a thing that cannot be re- 
 quired in a case like that which I have in view. The 
 ladies'-fingers, which are certainly more delicate in taste 
 than the kidney-potatoes, may be planted at the same 
 time, and treated in the same manner j and they will be 
 better than the larger potatoes all through the winter, 
 though the crop will not be so large. Some of these, 
 however, if planted early in March, will be very good for 
 use from the end of June to the latter end of the summer. 
 As to the first sort, the little round white early potatoes', 
 they may be raised so as to be fit to eat in June, and 
 even earlier. This sort of potatoe has no blossom. 
 It is a small round white potatoe, the leaf of which is 
 of a pale green, very thin, very smooth, and nearly of 
 the shape and size of the inside of a middle-sized lemon 
 cut asunder longways. This potatoe, if planted with 
 other sorts in March or April, will be ripe six weeks 
 sooner than any other sort. The ladies* fingers come 
 much quicker than the kidneys 5 but, the early 
 potatoe comes much quicker still. If you once get 
 this sort, and wish to keep it true, you must take 
 
 I 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ClIAP. 
 
 care that no other sort grow near it j for potatoes mix 
 the breed more readily than any thing else, though, in 
 this case, there be no bloom. It is very difficult, for 
 this reason, to get this sort true and unmixed. If these 
 potatoes be planted early in March, or late in February, 
 it should be in warm and dry ground 5 and you must 
 take care to cover the ground where they are planted 
 with litter or straw, if you perceive that frosts are 
 approaching, for if the root be once frosted, it immedi- 
 ately becomes water. You may dig up some of these 
 potatoes in June as big as walnuts or bigger. They are 
 not ripe in June ; but they may be ripe by the latter end 
 of July J they increase in size as you go on, and the 
 quantity need not be large, for, by the time these are ex- 
 hausted, the ladies* fingers come in for use. A small 
 quantity will be enough for seed for the next year. You 
 should pick out five or six of the truest plants to stand 
 for seed j when the haulm dies, take up the roots 5 put 
 them by carefully and preserve them till Spring. If you 
 wish to have potatoes still earlier than this, you must 
 resort to artificial heat. One way of doing this is as 
 follows : dig out the earth in the border opposite the 
 South side of a wall, but at four or five feet from it 
 in order to give room for the operations to be performed. 
 Take the earth out to the depth of two feet, and make 
 a hot-bed there of good, and rather long, dung, causing 
 the bed to rise about a foot above the level of the 
 ground. Put part of the earth upon this bed, and lay 
 the rest as a bank on each side of it. Give the bed a little 
 time to heat and to sink, and have the earth upon the 
 bed about eight or nine inches deep. Plant the sets of 
 potatoes in the earth upon this bed, and about six inches 
 
V. POTATOE. 
 
 down into that earth. The sets may be put in at about a 
 foot apart, and then you may sow all over the bed 
 radishes, onions and lettuces. These will come up imme- 
 diately, and the management of the bed is this. In the 
 first place, you put hoops across it, leaving about eighteen 
 inches between every two hoops ; then tie straight and 
 smooth sticks, long-ways of the bed upon the hoops j 
 then have mats good and sound, to lay over the hoops j 
 and the bed ought to be of the width that a mat will 
 completely cover. At all times, when the radishes will 
 bear the open air, that is to say, when there is no frost, 
 the mats ought to be off in the day-time ; and, if it be 
 extraordinarily warm for the season, and you are sure 
 that no frost will come in the night, they may be off in 
 the night ; for, if the plants be drawn up, the radishes, 
 lettuces and onions will come to nothing, and the pota- 
 toes will be spindling and will not produce. By the 
 time that the radishes have been all drawn and used, the 
 potatoes will have come up, and will have attained the 
 height of six or seven inches : the young onions will 
 have been used also, and the lettuce plants taken away 
 and planted out in the open ground -, so that the potatoes 
 only will remain, and these will be fit for use in May, 
 and, perhaps, early in May. Under the head of radishes, 
 I shall have to speak of a mode of getting potatoes still 
 earlier than this, though, perhaps, this is as early as any 
 one need wish for. The bed need not be long. From 
 twelve to twenty feet is, perhaps, enough, for any 
 family. After the potatoes are used, the earth should 
 be drawn off the bed, the dung taken out, and applied 
 to the manuring of the garden, the earth put back again 
 to the place whence it was dug out, and the ground 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 applied to the producing of some crop for the latter end 
 of the Summer. Potatoes may be raised from seed, that 
 is to say, from the round pods that grow upon the haulm j 
 and from these seeds new varieties come, as in the case 
 of the Strawberry and many other things. The pods 
 should be gathered when dead ripe. The pods should be 
 squeezed to pieces, the seed separated from the pulp, 
 made very dry, kept dry till April or early in May. They 
 should be sowed in little drills, two feet asunder, the 
 plants thinned out to a foot apart, they should be culti- 
 vated like other potatoes, and they will produce little 
 roots fit to plant out for a crop next spring. Few peo- 
 ple take the pains to do this, the sorts being already as 
 numerous as the stones of the pavement of a large city. 
 
 172. PUMPKIN.— A thing little used in England, but 
 of great use in hot countries. They are of various sorts, 
 the fruit of some of which are of immense size, and the 
 fruit of others in very common use in the making of 
 pies, where, however, they require the assistance of 
 cream, sugar, nutmeg, and other spices ; but, when so 
 prepared, are very pleasant things. They are by no 
 means bad cattle food, especially for milch cows, during 
 two months in the fall of the year j and I have no doubt 
 that they would produce twenty ton weight upon an acre 
 of land. The time for planting them in the natural ground 
 is the middle of May. They are not so sensible of frost as 
 tlie Cucumber. I'hey will be up in the first week of June, 
 and you have nothing to do but to keep the ground clear 
 of weeds. The best way is to put three or four seeds in a 
 ckimp, and put the clumps at ten or twelve feet apart. 
 The runners should have a proper direction given to 
 
V. PURSLANE, RADISH. 
 
 them, should be fastened down to the ground with pegs 
 at every two or three feet, and the runners will then send 
 new roots down into the ground. You know when the 
 pumpkins are ripe by their turning yellow, and striped, 
 and when the leaves begin to die. If you wish to save 
 the seed, you must let the pumpkin be quite ripe, and 
 then manage the seed as in the case of the Cucumber. 
 Different sorts must not grow near one another. If they 
 do, they will mix. 
 
 173. PURSLANE. — A mischievous weed, eaten by 
 Frenchmen and pigs when they can get nothing else. 
 Both use it in salad, that is to say, raw. 
 
 174. RADISH. — There are two distinct species of 
 Radishes, the tap-rooted, and the turnip-rooted. Of the latter, 
 there are red and white. The former are all red, some, 
 however, of a deeper dye than others. The great thing 
 in the case of radishes, is, to have them early in the 
 Spring, and, for this purpose, the tap-rooted kinds only 
 are used, as they come quicker than others. In the 
 open natural ground, radishes are sowed in the latter end 
 of February, or early in March, and a few once a fort- 
 night, until the beginning of May. If sowed later than 
 that, they are hot and disagreeable, and very few people 
 care for them. The turnip-rooted sorts should be of 
 the latest sowings j but even they become hot, if sowed 
 after the first of May. I shall hardly prevail upon any 
 body to sow radishes in little drills as directed for cab- 
 bages 3 but that is the best way j and, as soon as they 
 are up, they should be thinned to an inch apart ; for, 
 if thicker, you gain nothing in point of quantity, and you 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ClIAP. 
 
 lose in point of quickness in coming. They should be 
 sowed in shallow drills six inches apart, thinned to an inch 
 apart in the drill as soon as they come up, and the ground 
 shouldbekeptclear of weeds by a little hoe. We have seen 
 how radishes may be had early by sowing them upon a 
 potatoe-bedj if you wish to have them still earlier, you 
 must make a bed on purpose, and cover it with a frame 
 and glass. The manner of making a hot-bed has been de- 
 scribed in Chapter III. A bed for radishes^ made as 
 early as December, if you like, need not be so strong as 
 a bed for early cucumbers. Proceed, in the making of 
 the bed, in just the same manner as directed for cucum- 
 bers ; but, you need not make the bed to be above three 
 feet high. You must let the heat be gone oflP more in 
 this case than in the case of cucumbers, before you put 
 on the mould ; and before you put on the mould for ra- 
 dishes, take all the lights off the bed for a whole day 
 unless in case of severe frosts, snow or raiux Put the 
 mould on eight inches deep j or, if it be nine inches, it is 
 better still. The mould should be made very fine, and it 
 should be rich without dung. There is no room to spare 
 in a hot-bed, and, therefore, you should make the drills 
 with your finger about two inches apart, and put the seed 
 along in the drills in a very even manner. When the plants 
 come up, thin them to an inch apart. That will give you 
 seventy-two radishes ; that is to say, six dozen upon 
 every square foot ; and, if your frame be twelve feet 
 long and four feet wide, this hot-bed will give you two 
 hundred and eighty-eight bunches, a dozen in a bunch. 
 Now mind, your success will depend upon two things. 
 Keeping out frost, and giving all the air that you can 
 possibly give, without letting in the frost. If it be fine 
 
V. RADISH. 
 
 I open weather, whether wet or dry, the lights should be ta- 
 i ken entirely ofif during the day ; and even in sharpish weather 
 there should be plenty of air given in the day-time. In 
 j open weather, there should be air given by night as well 
 j as by day j and the lights should be entirely off in the day- 
 time, except in frosty weather, or during very heavy 
 rains. For, if your radishes be drawn up, they will 
 come to. nothing J and they will be drawn up unless they 
 have plenty of air. The heat of the bed, will, in time, 
 diminish so much as to let in the frost, in a severe win- 
 I ter. In such weather therefore, you must line the bed 
 in the same manner as is directed for cucumbers. As to 
 covering, in sharpish weather, a single mat over the glass 
 will do. It seldom happens that more than a double 
 mat could be required for a radish-bed j but, if the bed 
 become cool, there must be covering sufficient to keep 
 out the frost 5 this is to remain on, however, for as short 
 a time as possible j and, even during a hard frost, if the 
 suri come out, the lights should be taken off during the 
 time that the sun is within two hours of its highest 
 pitch ', for, in this country, it never, I believe, freezes in 
 the- sun, and, to keep away frost is all that you require in 
 the- way of covering. Two square feet, or four at most, 
 n one corner of the frame, will give you mustard and 
 jress a plenty for salads, if you take csre to make re- 
 iftated sowings in proper time. In this bed early po- 
 atoes may be planted in the manner directed for the po- 
 «toe-bed mentioned under the head of the potatoe. A few 
 /oung onions may be raised here also to be eaten green ; 
 md also some lettuce plants, to be removed about the 
 ime that the radishes are all drawn. In just the same way, 
 ind, with a bed of about the same strength, early carrots 
 
 K 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 may be raised. Some people like them, and the trouble 
 is a great deal less than any one would imagine, seeing! 
 that it requires so many words to explain the method of) 
 doing the thing. Now, as to the sorts of radishes for the 
 hot-bed, there are two, the early scarlet, and the early 
 short-top: the colour of the former is indicated by its 
 name, that of the latter is between a red and a purple. 
 Some tastes prefer one sort, and some the other. I know 
 no difference in the flavour : the scarlet is the most pleas- 
 ing to the eye, and is, therefore, the sort that market- 
 gardeners cultivate 5 but the short-top is the earliest ; 
 that is to say, the quickest in coming to perfection j or, 
 at least, I think so j for I never actually tried one against 
 the other ; and they certainly eat more crisp than the 
 scarlet. The finest radish of all for the flavour, as well 
 as for crispness, is called the salmon-radish, from its 
 colour being precisely that of salmon when in season j 
 but it does not come so quickly as the other two sorts. 
 If you have the early radishes in beds, the salmon-radish 
 ought to be the first to sow in the open ground. With 
 regard to the turnip-rooted sorts, they are all greatly in- 
 ferior, in point of flavour, to the tap-rooted ; and, as to 
 the hlaclc Spanish radish, it is a coarse thing that will | 
 stand the winter about as well as a turnip ; and is very i 
 little superior to a turnip in point of flavour. It is called 
 a radish, and may be had with hardly any trouble even 
 in the winter time ; but it is, in fact, not fit to eat. In 
 all sowings of radishes, the greatest care must be taken 
 to keep away the birds, until the radishes be fairly up, 
 and even begin to show rough leaf) for, they are ex- j 
 tremely fond of these seeds, and they are sowed at a season f 
 of the year when bird-food is scarce. The sparrows will ; 
 
\ . RADISH. 
 
 see you when you are sowing, will know very well what 
 you are at j and though you bury the seeds very safely, 
 they will watch the first peeping up of the head, and you 
 will not have a single radish, if you sow in winter or 
 early in the spring, unless you take the proper precau- 
 tions to keep off the birds. When you take the lights 
 off the hot-bed of radishes, you must cover the bed over 
 with a net. When you tilt up the lights to give air, the 
 birds will go in unless you hang nets over the opening. 
 The market-gardeners, who want great quantities of 
 radishes pretty early in the spring, sow them in the 
 month of January in the natural ground in warm situa- 
 tions. As soon as they have sowed, they cover the beds 
 with straw, half a foot thick. Under this straw, the 
 radishes, sheltered from the frost, come up ; and then 
 the straw is taken off in the day-time, and put on again 
 at night J and this opening by day, and covering by 
 night, is kept up until mild weather come in March, 
 when the radishes are fit to take up for sale. The 
 same may be done in a private garden ; but the straw 
 makes a great litter about the ground : it makes a pretty 
 place ugly, and the advantage is not sufficient to coun- 
 terbalance the eye-sore. Radish-seed, like all others, 
 becomes untrue, if plants of different sorts bloom and 
 ripen their seed near each other. This, therefore, must 
 be guarded against j if you want to save seed, refrain 
 from drawing a few of the very earliest of your radishes ; 
 let them stand in the bed until the middle of March or 
 first of April j. then take them up, transplant them into 
 the natural ground, and they will well ripen their seed 
 during the summer. Though, observe, they will not 
 ripen all their seed, for, like the beet, the buckwheat, 
 k3 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 may be raised. Some people like them, and the trouble 
 is a great deal less than any one would imagine, seeing 
 that it requires so many words to explain the method of 
 doing the thing. Now, as to the sorts of radishes for the 
 hot-bed, there are two, the early scarlet, and the early 
 short-top : the colour of the former is indicated by its 
 name, that of the latter is between a red and a purple. 
 Some tastes prefer one sort, and some the other. I know 
 no difference in the flavour : the scarlet is the most pleas- 
 ing to the eye, and is, therefore, the sort that market- 
 gardeners cultivate j but the short-top is the earliest ; 
 that is to say, the quickest in coming to perfection j or, 
 at least, I think so j for I never actually tried one against 
 the other ; and they certainly eat more crisp than the 
 scarlet. The finest radish of all for the flavour, as well 
 as for crispness, is called the salmon-radish, from its 
 colour being precisely that of salmon when in season ; 
 but it does not come so quickly as the other two sorts. 
 If you have the early radishes in beds, the salmon-radish 
 ought to be the first to sow in the open ground. With 
 regard to the turnip-rooted sorts, they are all greatly in- 
 ferior, in point of flavour, to the tap-rooted ; and, as to 
 the black Spanish radish, it is a coarse thing that will 
 stand the winter about as well as a turnip j and is very 
 little superior to a turnip in point of flavour. It is called 
 a radish, and may be had with hardly any trouble even 
 in the winter time j but it is, in fact, not fit to eat. In 
 all sowings of radishes, the greatest care must be taken 
 to keep away the birds, until the radishes be fairly up, 
 and even begin to show rough leaf j for, they are ex- 
 tremely fond of these seeds, and they are sowed at a season 
 «f the year when bird-food is scarce. The sparrows will 
 
V, RADISH. 
 
 see you when you are sowing, will know very well what 
 you are at j and though you bury the seeds very safely, 
 they will watch the first peeping up of the head, and you 
 will not have a single radish, if you sow in winter or 
 JBarly in the spring, unless you take the proper precau- 
 tions to keep off the birds. When you take the lights 
 off the hot-bed of radishes, you must cover the bed over 
 with a net. When you tilt up the lights to give air, the 
 birds will go in unless you hang nets over the opening. 
 The market-gardeners, who want great quantities of 
 radishes pretty early in the spring, sow them in the 
 month of January in the natural ground in warm situa- 
 tions. As soon as they have sowed, they cover the beds 
 with straw, half a foot thick. Under this straw, the 
 radishes, sheltered from the frost, come up ; and then 
 the straw is taken off in the day-time, and put on again 
 at nighty and this opening by day, and covering by 
 night, is kept up until mild weather come in March, 
 when the radishes are fit to take up for sale. The 
 same may be done in a private garden ; but the straw 
 makes a great litter about the ground : it makes a pretty 
 place ugly, and the advantage is not sufficient to coun- 
 terbalance the eye-sore. Radish-seed, like all others, 
 becomes untrue, if plants of different sorts bloom and 
 ripen their seed near each other. This, therefore, must 
 be guarded against j if you want to save seed, refrain 
 from drawing a few of the very earliest of your radishes ; 
 let them stand in the bed until the middle of March or 
 first of April j. then take them up, transplant them into 
 the natural ground, and they will well ripen their seed 
 during the summer. Though, observe, they will not 
 ripen all their seed, for, like the beet, the buckwheat, 
 k2 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. 
 
 Cha 
 
 and many other plants, they continue to blow long after 
 ]jart of their seed is nearly ripe. Therefore, if you were 
 to sto^ till all the seed ripened, before you gathered 
 any, you would stand a chance to lose the whole ; for 
 the birds would have eaten the first seed long before all 
 the flowers were off the plant. The best way, therefore, 
 is to pull up the plants when the first seed is ripe ; and 
 that gives you plenty of time to put the whole plant to 
 lie and wither in the sun, without which, too, it is very 
 difficult to get the seed out of the pods. A very good 
 way is, first to make the whole plant, pods and all, dry 
 in the sun, and then to hang the plant up by the heels in 
 some dry and airy place, and rub the seed out of the pods 
 as you want it. In the pod, it will keep a great many 
 years, perhaps twenty, and, perhaps, fifty 3 but, out of 
 the pod, it will keep well, not above two. y 
 
 175. RAMPION.— This is the smallest seed of which 
 we have any knowledge. A thimble-full, properly dis- 
 tributed, would sow an acre of land. It is sowed in the 
 spring, in very fine earth. Its roots are used in soup . 
 
 «and salads. Its leaves are also used in salads. A yard 
 square is enough for any garden. r 
 
 176. RAPE. — This is a field-plant for sheep j but it is 
 very good to sow like white mustard, to use as salad, and 
 it is sowed and raised in the same way. 
 
 177. RHUBARB. — The docA;, which is a mischievous 
 weed, is the native English rhubarb. Its name is found 
 in the list of seeds in Chapter IV., because that list is 
 the same as the list in my American Gardener j and, in 
 
RHUBARB. 
 
 tmerica, dock-leaves are eaten in the spring, and are 
 carried to market in great quantities to be sold. But, in 
 this country, where the winter does not sweep every 
 thing green from the face of the earth, nobody thinks of 
 cultivating the dock, which is one of the most mis- 
 chievous weeds that we have. In that list also is the 
 dandelion ; because that plant also is used as greens in 
 the spring ; and, if the plants be fine, and you lay a tile or 
 bit of board upon them to bleach them, or tie them up 
 tis directed for endive, they make very good salad in the 
 month of April 3 but, not being worth cultivation in a 
 garden, and being a mere weed, they have not been 
 mentioned by me as articles to be cultivated. I am now 
 to speak, not of the dock, but of the foreign rhubarb, 
 of which there are tv^o sorts, the stalks of the leaves of 
 th€ one being pretty nearly red, and those of the leaves of 
 the other being of a greyish green colour. The latter is 
 the finer of the two, grows larger than the other, and 
 the flavour is better. The uses of the rhubarb are very 
 well known, and it is known also that the only part used 
 is the inside of the stalk of the leaf, which is fit for 
 use towards the latter end of April, when it supplies, by 
 anticipation, the place of green gooseberries in all the 
 various modes in which these latter are applied. The 
 propagation of the rhubarb may be either from seed or 
 from oiFsets. It bears seed in prodigious abundance, and 
 that seed precisely resembles the seed of the dock. It is 
 sowed any time in the spring, in the same manner as di- 
 reetedfbr cabbages, and, when the plants come up, they 
 ought to be thinned to six inches apart in the row. In 
 the fall, the plants are taken up and planted in rows at 
 three feet apart, and two feet apart in the row. During 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 the first summer after this, none of the leaves ought to 
 be stripped off for use. If the plants throw up seed- 
 stalks, these should be kept cut down. During this 
 summer, the plants will become very strong, and the 
 next spring, they will produce leaves, the stalks of 
 which will be fit for use. They will stand and flourish 
 for any length of time on the same spot, and their pro- 
 duce will be prodigious. When taken off for use, theii? 
 leaves should be stripped off, and not cut. It is perfectljf 
 hardy, and all that it requires, is, digging the ground iijb 
 the intervals and between the plants in the month o^ 
 November, and again early in April, and giving a mode- 
 rate supply of manure, once in two years. If propa^ 
 gated from offsets j that is to say, shoots taken df 
 from the sides of the old stools, the offsets ought to be 
 planted at the distance before-directed 3 and, if they be 
 stout, and planted out in the fall, you may begin using 
 the leaves the next spring. 
 
 178. ROSEMARY is a beautiful little shrub. One (^ 
 them may be enough in a garden. It is propagated from 
 dips, taken off in the spring and planted in a cool place. 
 
 179. RUE. — Still more beautiful. Propagated in the 
 same manner. One plant of the kind is enough. 
 
 180. RUTABAGA.— (See Turnip.) 
 
 181. SAGE is raised from seed, or from slips. To 
 have it at hand for winter, it is necessary to dry it ; and 
 it ought to be cut, for this purpose, before it comes out 
 into bloom, as, indeed, is the case with all other herbs. 
 
v. ' SALSAFY, SAMPHIRE^ SAVORY. 
 
 182. SALSAFY.— The seed of the salsafy very nearly 
 resembles that of the wild oat. It is a tap-rooted plant, 
 resembling the parsnip in colour, and not very much 
 unlike it in flavour. It is usually sowed late in February 
 or early in March, in drills a foot apart, and, when the 
 plants come up, they are thinned to six inches apart in 
 the row. Hoeing between to keep down the weeds is 
 all that is required. Though it is usually sowed so early 
 in the spring, it ought not to be sowed till May, and even 
 the middle of May ; for, if sowed earlier, many of the 
 plants will run up to seed, and then they become good 
 for nothing for use. It is as hardy as the parsnip. It 
 stands in the ground all the winter, without the smallest 
 injury, and need not be taken up to be put in house ex- 
 cept as a precaution against frost. Some people let part 
 of their plants stand until the spring, when they send up 
 their seed-shoots very early, which are cropped oflf and 
 used in the same manner as asparagus. Two or three 
 plants left to run up to seed will be sufficient. The seed- 
 pods, when ripe, should be cropped oflP, made perfectly 
 dry in the sun, and then put by and preserved in a dry 
 place. 
 
 . 183. SAMPHIRE is propagated from seed or from 
 offsets. It is perennial, and is sometimes used as a 
 pickle, or in salads. The time for sowing is April, and 
 the same time may do for putting out the offsets. It is, 
 however, an insignificant thing, and hardly worth serious 
 attention. 
 
 184. SAVORY. — Two sorts, summer, and winter ; the 
 former is annual, the latter perennial. Both may be pro- 
 
KITCHEN-OARDEN PLANTS. Chap/ 
 
 pagated from seed, sowed in a little patch early in spring ; 
 but the latter may also be propagated from offsets. Tc*' 
 have these herbs in winter with the least possible troubl>^| 
 and in the greatest possible perfection, they should bfe^' 
 cut and dried in the manner directed for sage. • 
 
 185. SAVOY.— (See Cabbage.) 
 
 186. SCORZENERA.— This is only another kind of ' 
 Salsafy, growing a little larger than the salsafy, the root 
 being of a dark colour on the outside instead of being of 
 a whitish colour, and it is propagated and cultivated and 
 used in precisely the same manner as the salsafy. 
 
 18^. SHALOT. — 'A little perennial onion, propagated 
 from seed, if you please, but much more easily propa- 
 gated from offsets, like the garlick, which it perfectly re- 
 sembles in the manner of its growing. The offsets ought 
 to be planted out in rows six or eight inches apart in the 
 month of March, and theplants ought to stand four inches 
 apart in the row. The ground should not be wet at 
 bottom, and should be kept very clean during the sum- 
 mer. As soon as the leaves die, the bulbs should be 
 taken Up and made perfectly dry in the sun ; then tied in 
 bunches, and hung up to be preserved iaa dry place. 
 Jutij JiiqA si ^nivM>?. *io1t smii- 9iiT , .'' : • ' - 
 
 18S. SKIRRIT is a plant very little known now-a- 
 days J but, if any one has a mind to cultivate it, the 
 manner of doing it is the same as that directed for the 
 salsafy. It is, however, a perennial^ and may be propa- 
 gated from offsets. 
 
ViiS.i>'> SORREL, 6PINAGE. 
 
 189. SORREL. — This is no other than the wild sorrel 
 cultivated. The French, who call it oseille, make large 
 messes of it. But a short row is quite enough for an 
 English garden. It is perennial. May be propagated 
 from seeds, but, much more readily, from offsets. 
 
 190. SPINAGE. — Every one knows the uses of this 
 excellent plant. Pigs, who are excellent judges of the 
 relative qualities of vegetables, will leave cabbages for 
 lettuces, and lettuces for spinage. Gardeners make two 
 sorts of spinage, though I really believe there is but one. 
 One sort they call round spinage, and the other prkkley 
 spinage, the former they call summer spinage, and the 
 latter winter j but I have sowed them indiscriminately, 
 and have never perceived any difference in their fitness to 
 the two seasons of the year. The spinage is an annual 
 plant, produces its seed and ripens it well even if sowed 
 so late as the month of May. It may be as well to sow 
 the round spinage for summer, and the prickley spinage 
 for winter, but the time of sowing and the manner of 
 cultivating are the only things of importance j and great 
 attention should be paid to these, this being a most 
 valuable plant all the year round, but particularly in the 
 winter and the spring. It has something delightfully re- 
 freshing in its taste, and is to be had at a time when 
 nothing but mere greens or broccoli is to be had. It far 
 surpasses them both, m my opinion, the use of it never 
 being attended with any of those inconv-eniences as to 
 bodily health which is the case with both the others. In 
 the summer, there are plenty of other things j but for 
 the winter crop, due provision should always be made. 
 The time for sowing for the winter crop, if the ground 
 
 k5 
 
KITCHEN- GARDEN PLANTS. 
 
 Chap. 
 
 be good, is the last week in August, and, if the ground 
 be poor, a fortnight earlier. Sow in shallow drills, eight 
 inches apart, and thin the plants to six inches apart in 
 the row : keep them clear of weeds, hoe about them 
 before winter sets in, and draw the earth close up to the 
 stems of the plants, taking care that the dirt do not fall 
 into the hearts. The ground should be rather of the drier 
 descrij»tion j for, if wet, and the winter be severe, the 
 plants will be killed. They will' have fine leaves in the 
 month of November, or before : for use, the outside 
 leaves should be taken off first, or, rather, these only 
 should be taken off, leaving all the rest, and they should 
 be pinched off with the finger and the thumb close to the 
 stem of the plant. The plant will keep growing, more 
 or less, all the winter, except in very hard weather, and 
 will keep on yielding a supply from the beginning of 
 November to the latter end of May, when the seed 
 stalks will begin to rise, and when the summer spinage, 
 spwed in the latter end of February and cultivated in the 
 same way as the former, will be ready to supply their 
 place. About the first of May, another sowing of sum- 
 mer spinage should take place ; but this will be gene- 
 rally supplanted by peas, beans, and other summer crops. 
 If, however, the reader wish, like me, to have it all the 
 summer, he must sow again in the month of June, and 
 again in the month of July. These two latter sowings 
 being made in the coolest and least sunny part of the 
 garden. As to saving the seed of the spinage, a few 
 plants of each sort will be sufficient. The plants must 
 be pulled up before the seed be dead ripe, or the birds 
 will have every grain. It is a coarse-looking seed, with 
 a thick husk upon it j but the small birds are very fo'nd 
 
V. 
 
 SQUASH. 
 
 of it, and will begin to hammer it out of the husks while 
 these are still green. The seed-plants, when pulled up, 
 should be laid in the sun to become perfectly dry, and 
 the seed should be then rubbed off and put by in a dry 
 place. 
 
 191. SQUASH, sometimes called Vegetable Marrow j 
 and, though the thing is certainly very good, as a vege- 
 table, and the former name not very flattering, the latter 
 is certainly beyond its merits. This plant, or, rather, 
 this tribe of plants, are of the pumpkin kind. There 
 are several sorts, some for summer use, and some for 
 winter use. The summer kinds that I have, are the flat 
 hush, the long hush, the crooked-necked hush ; that is to say, 
 they grow upright, and branch out like a little bush , 
 whereas the winter sorts run upon the ground like cu- 
 cumberg and melons. The time for sowing all the sorts 
 in England is, about the middle of May, in the south, and 
 perhaps, the first week in June, in the north. The 
 squash is not so tender as the cucumber, and will stand 
 any little frosts that we have in June, though such frosts 
 check them in their growth. To have them early, they 
 should be sowed in a gentle hot-bed in April. Put out 
 into pots in the manner directed for cucumbers. They 
 should be topped, while in the pots, in the manner di- 
 rected for cucumbers : about the middle of May, the 
 pots should be taken out and sunk in the natural ground, 
 and a frame set over them, or they should have a covering 
 of hoops and mats for the night-time, just to keep off 
 the frosts. About the middle of June, they should be 
 planted out in the open level ground, which need not be 
 Exceedingly rich. The distance for the bush sorts ought 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 to be five feet at the least, and for the running sorts, of 
 which I have the white winter squash, and the bell shaped 
 winter squash, should be six feet, at the least. The ground 
 should be kept very clean. When the plants are put out 
 of the pots the balls should be sunk in the ground to ^ 
 level with the ground, a little water should be given to 
 each ball after it is fixed in the earth, and a little dry 
 earth should be drawn up round the stems of the plants' 
 to the height of the seed-leaf. In about a fortnight, a 
 very nice hoeing should be given to the whole of the 
 ground. In another fortnight, a very nice digging to the 
 whole of the ground, and the summer-sorts will begin 
 to produce for use, by the latter end of July. If the first 
 crop fail, or appear to be likely to fail, you may sow 
 again in July, and even in August 3 that is to say, the 
 summer-sorts, and, I dare say, the winter sorts, too, but 
 I have no experience upon that head. I sowed some i» 
 the month of August last year j about five and twenty 
 plants in number, and had bushels of squashes fit for use 
 before the frost came. All the bush squashes are of a 
 yellow colour before they are fit for use, though I have 
 seen them in the markets in England for sale when still 
 green. Of all the sorts, the fiat-bush is the best for 
 the summer, and the long white for the winter. The 
 manner of cooking them is very simple. They are 
 merely washed clean, and boiled for about twenty 
 minutes j but by running a fork into them, you know 
 when they are done, in the same way that you judge 
 in the case of a turnip. The summer sorts must not 
 hang on the plant long, except you wish to save the 
 seed. You soon discover what is their usual size, and, 
 as soon as they arrive at that, they are fit to be gathered. 
 
I V, TANSEY, TARRAGON. 
 
 They require no peeling, as a turnip does j and, if they 
 be (as the winter squashes will be) much larger than 
 they are wanted, for one time, you may cut a part ofiF,y 
 and leave the rest for use another day. They are cer- 
 tainly far preferable to the best of turnips ; and, though 
 they are not actually marrow, they are a very delightful 
 vegetable, and their produce is prodigious. If well cul- 
 tivated, I dare say that a single plant of the flat bush 
 squash would produce a bushel of fruit ; but, like the 
 cucumber and all other plants of the same description, if 
 you wish the plant to continue producing for a long 
 while, you must take care to gather every fruit as soon 
 as it becomes fit for use, and before it begins to ripen its 
 seed. The small ones 5 that is to say, the fruit gathered 
 at a very early stage, when not much bigger than a large 
 walnut, for instance, make excellent pickles, much better 
 than cucumbers. If you wish to save the seed, you must 
 proceed in exactly the same manner as directed in the 
 case of the cucumber. 
 
 19^. TANSEY. — A perennial culinary and medicinal 
 herb, propae^ated from seed, if you like j but from offsets 
 is the easiest way : a plant or two would be sufficient for 
 a garden, and, when once it had taken root, it would re- 
 main there for a life-time. 
 
 193. TARRAGON is a very hot, peppery herb, used in 
 ^oups and salads. It is perennial, and may be propa- 
 gated from seed sowed at any time in the spring, or 
 from offsets put out in either spring or fall. Its young 
 and tender tops only are . used. It is eaten with beef- 
 steaks in company with minced shalots. A man may, 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. 
 
 doubtless, live very well without it j but an orthodox 
 clergyman once told me, that he and six others once ate, 
 some beef-steaks with shalots and tarragon, and that., 
 they "voted unanimously, that beef-steaks never were 
 so eaten !" If you will have it in' winter, you must dry. 
 it, in the manner directed for sage and other herbs. 
 
 194. THYME.— There are two distinct sorts of this 
 popular, and most fragrant herb. One is called common, 
 thyme, and the other lemon thyme, both are perenniel, both 
 may be propagated from seed, but both may also be pro- 
 pagated from ofifsets or partings of the roots, and this is. 
 the easiest way. The winter sometimes destroys thyme.. 
 Some of both sorts should be preserved for winter use,, 
 cut at the same stage as is directed for the sage j and, as 
 in the case of all other herbs, cut when perfectly dry, and 
 dried in the shade, in some place where it receives no wet 
 either from rains or dews, during the drying. 
 
 195. TOMATUM.— This plant comes from countries 
 bordering on the Mediterranean. Of sorts there are the 
 red, the yellow and the white. The fruit is used for various 
 purposes, and is sold at a pretty high price. The plants 
 must be raised in a gentle hot-bed pretty early in April 
 or late in March, put into small pots when they are two 
 inches high, and turned out into the natural ground about 
 the first week in June j but even then they must be put 
 on the south side of a wall, or in some other warm and 
 sheltered situation. If close to a wall, their runners may 
 be trained up it by the means of shreds when the leaves 
 and fruit make a very beautiful appearance. If not close 
 to a wall, there must be sticks put to train the vines up. 
 
V. TURNIP. 
 
 and to tie them to. The ground in which they are planted, 
 should be kept very clean, and frequently stirred about 
 them. If you intend to save the seed, you should have 
 a plant or two very early placed against a south wall. 
 
 196. TURNIP. — I am here to speak of turnips to be 
 cultivated in a garden for table-use, and not to be culti- 
 vated in a field for the use of cattle j but, as the Swedish 
 turnip, or ruta haga, yields most delicate greens, for use 
 in March, a few of these might find a place in a garden. 
 It is true, that they are to be found upon almost every 
 farm ; but you muet go to the farm to get them, and get 
 leave to take them into the bargain ; so that, a couple of 
 rows across one of the plats ought to find a place in the 
 garden. The garden-turnip is called the stone-turnip by 
 some ; by others, the early white Dutch-turnip ; some say 
 that they are both the same ; there is another turnip 
 which has a long and taper root, and not a large bulb in 
 proportion j and this is called, in Hampshire at least, the 
 mouse-tailed turnip. But, the finest turnip for eating that 
 I ever saw, I never yet saw in England. It is a little flat 
 turnip. The bulb lies almost wholly upon the top of the 
 ground, sending down, froni the centre of it, a slender 
 tap. This bulb is about four or five inches diameter in 
 general, and not above two inches through, in depth. 
 The flesh is of a deep yellow colour. This sort of turnip 
 is in universal use throughout the northern States of 
 America. Some farmers in England cultivate the yellow 
 Scotch turnip as it is called j and, if this turnip really did 
 come from Scotland, there is something good that is 
 Scotch, at any rate. This yellow turnip is cultivated ia 
 Herefordshire under the name of the ox turnip j and I 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChaP. 
 
 refeifember that Mr. Palmkr of Bollitree told me that it 
 far exceeded. In point of richness, and in point of stand- 
 ing the weather, all other turnips, except the Swedish : 
 I think his account was, that, weight for weight, it was 
 halfway between the common turnip and the Swedish, 
 as food for cattle. However, the chances are that, as 
 people like white better than yellow in a turnip, they will 
 prefer the early white Dutch or early stone to any other. 
 The manner of propagating and cultivating all the sorts 
 is the same. Spring turnips, or, rather, early summer 
 turnips, are very poor things : the plant must have cold 
 weather, to make it really good : do what you will, it 
 will be hot if you have it to eat in the early part of the 
 summer j but, if you wish to have them at that time, you 
 must sow them in March. The manner of sowing is, 
 in shallow drills a foot or fifteen inches apart, and the 
 plants thinned to eight or nine inches in the row. The 
 fly, or, rather, the flea, is apt to take them off, and, in 
 that case, there is no remedy but sowing again. The 
 ground between them should be kept clean, and it should 
 not be fresh dunged, for that will be sure to make them 
 rank and hot. Depend rather upon the Tullian prin- 
 ciple of causing growth by tillage. For autumnal and 
 winter use, turnips are very good and very convenient, 
 seeing that they may be so easily preserved from the 
 frosty even in the severest winters. To insure a crop, 
 you should sow in the last week of July, or the first of 
 August, in the south of England, and a week or two 
 earlier, towards the north. It is a very good way to sow 
 again in the last week of August, especially in good and 
 warm soil, for these will be sound in the month of 
 March, and, if the winter be mild, quite large enough. 
 
V. WORMWOOD, BORAGE. - 
 
 while those sowed earlier, will become woolly by that 
 time. But, there is a \^'ay to prevent this woolliiiess ; 
 that is to say, by taking up the turnips, and taking off 
 their greens and roots early in November, keeping them 
 in a cellar or some other convenient place, taking care to 
 exclude all bruised, broken, or rotten turnips or parts of 
 turnips. A small conical heap made in the garden, upon 
 the top of the ground, covered first with straw and then 
 with earth, will keep the turnips perfectly sound until 
 March, so that, be the winter what it may, you may 
 always have turnips ready for use ; and, as they are not 
 in a state to grow, they will not become woolly. 
 
 X97. WORMWOOD is a herb purely medicinal. It 
 may be propagated from seed, from slips, or from offsets : 
 it is perenniel, and a foot square in the herb-bed is 
 enough to be allowed to it. It loses its leaves in the 
 winter j and, therefore, for winter use, it must be cut and 
 dried, in the manner directed in the case of other herbs, 
 and put by and preserved in paper bags. 
 
 198. N(Aa Bene. BORAGE.— I omitted the insertion of 
 this plant in due alphabetical order, and, as the printer 
 treads closely upon my heels, I am obliged to mention it 
 here. — This is a very pretty flowering plant. One sort of 
 it has blue flowers, one red, and another white. The only 
 use that I ever saw Borage put to, was putting it into 
 wine and water, along with nutmeg, and some other 
 things perhaps, the mixture altogether being called, cool- 
 tankard, or by the shorter name, cup. If once you have 
 it growing upon any spot, you need not take the trouble 
 to sow. It bears an abundance of seed, some of which 
 
KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTS. ChAP. V. 
 
 is ripe, while the plant is still in bloom. If you wish to 
 have it young at all times, you may sow in the spring, 
 in the summer, in autumn, or, at any time. The plants 
 should not stand too thick upon the ground, and the 
 ground should be kept clean. Any awkward corner 
 under one of the hedges will do very well for borage, 
 which, however, is by no means unornamental in a 
 flower-garden, both flower and leaf being very pretty. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Fruits. Propagation, Planting, and Training and Pruning, 
 whether wall-trees, espaliers, or standards, with an Alpha- 
 betical List of the several Fruits, and with observations on 
 the Diseases of Fruit-trees. 
 
 199. All the fruits to be treated of here, with the ex- 
 ception of the Cranberry, the Melon and the Straw- 
 berry, are the produce of trees, or of woody plants. In 
 treating of them I shall pursue the following course : 
 first, give instructions as to the Propagation, next, as to 
 the Planting, next, as to the Training and Pruning j 
 next I shall give the List of Fruits 3 and, lastly, I shall 
 make some remarks on the nature and tendency of the Dis- 
 eases of fruit-trees, and on the remedies proper to be ap- 
 plied. 
 
 PROPAGATION. 
 
 200. All fruit-trees, from the loftiest cherry, down to 
 the gooseberry, may be propagated by seed ; and this 
 would be thfe proper way j but nature has so contrived 
 it, that the seed of fruit-trees will not bring trees to pro- 
 duce the same sort of fruit except by mere accident 3 so 
 
^ ' FRUITS. ^ Chap. 
 
 that, gardeners are compelled, in order to insure the sort 
 of fruit which they wish to have, to raise the trees from 
 some part or other «f the wood of the tree the like of which 
 tliey wish to have. The several parts of the wood, taken 
 and used for this purpose, are slips, layers, cuttings, 
 and BUDS. The different methods of propagation suited 
 to each kind will be mentioned under the name of the 
 kinds respectively in the Alphabetical List which will 
 form a part of this present chapter. In this place, 
 therefore, I am to describe the several methods gene- 
 rally, and the general management suited to each. 
 
 201. SLIPS are little branches of one or two year's 
 growth, pulled oflF from a limb or larger branch of the 
 tree by a downward jerk of the hand. You then take a 
 sharp knife, trim off the ragged bark from the bottom of 
 the slip, and cut the tip of ttie slip off at the same time, 
 leaving the slip altogether to be about a foot long. The 
 time of the year for taking off slips is about the begin- 
 ning of March ; and, if it were a little earlier, it might be 
 as well. You then plant them as you would a little tree, 
 but three or four inches deep in the ground, and in a 
 shady place, a most convenient place for purposes of this 
 sort would be near the hedge on the south side of the 
 garden. They should be put in a row or rows about 
 eighteen inches apart, and about a foot apart in the row. 
 In this situation they will make shoots in the summer, 
 and make roots. They should be watered a little at the 
 time of planting, and occasionally a little in the spring 
 and summer, until they have shoots two or three inches 
 long. There are many sorts of apples that will admit of 
 propagation in this way, as quinces also will 5 and the 
 
VI. PROPAGATION. 
 
 common codling apple may be raised in this manner with 
 the greatest facility. In a very dry and hot season, it 
 may not be amiss to lay a little litter upon the ground in 
 which the slips are planted in order to keep it cool. 
 
 202. LAYERS. — You take a limb, or branch, of a tree 
 in the fall, or early in spring, or at Midsummer, and pull 
 it down in such a way as to cause its top, or small shoots 
 and twigs to lie upon the ground. Then fasten the limb 
 down by a peg or two, so that its own force will not 
 raise it up. Then prune ofiF all the small branches and 
 shoQts that stick upright; and, having a parcel of shoots 
 lying horizontally, lay earth upon the whole, all along 
 upon the limb from the point where it begins to touch 
 the ground, and also upon all the bottoms of all the shoots. 
 Then cut the shoots off at the points, leaving only two 
 or three joints or buds beyond the earth. The earth laid 
 on should be good, and the ground should be fresh-digged 
 and made very fine and smooth before the branches be 
 laid upon it. The earth laid on should be from six 
 inches to a foot thick. If the limb, or mother branch, 
 be very stubborn, a little cut on the upper side of it will 
 make it more easy to be held down. The ground should 
 be kept clean from weeds, and as cool as possible in hot 
 weather. Perhaps rocks or stones (not large) are the 
 best and coolest covering. These layers will be ready to 
 take up and plant out as trees after they have been laid 
 a year. In cases where the branches intended to be laid 
 cannot be bent down sufficiently near to the ground 
 without danger of breaking them off, a box of earth 
 or a pan with notches in the sides to lay the branch in, 
 may be used. Vines may, by means of pots with open^ 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 ing sidesj be laid as they are growing in the grapery or 
 against the wall ; and this is frequently done by the gar- 
 deners as matter of curiosity mixed with utility. They 
 lay a shoot, in this manner, in the spring, and, when it 
 has rooted and is in full bearing in the fall, they cut it 
 off immediately below the pot, and produce at table a 
 growing tree covered with ripe fruit. The earth, how- 
 ever, in boxes, or pans, or pots, being in small bodies, 
 necessarily dry up sooner than when not so j and, there- 
 fore, when this method of laying is adopted, great care 
 must be taken to water constantly, so as to keep up the 
 required moisture. And not only does the limb require 
 this moisture to make it root, but when rooted, the 
 young roots require it, to keep them alive. To cause the 
 limb to put forth roots, it is a common practice to prick 
 it nearly through, in two or three directions, at one of 
 the joints that are to be buried under ground 3 or to cut 
 a notch nearly half way through the limb. At these 
 wounds, matter oozes out which quickly causes the 
 putting forth of young roots. 
 
 903. CUTTINGS are short pieces cut from trees in the 
 month of February. You take a shoot of the last year 
 and cut it off with a small piece of the preceding year's 
 wood at the bottom of it, if that be convenient. The 
 shoot should be a sound and strong one, and it is not 
 absolutely necessary that it should have a piece of the 
 preceding year's wood. The cutting should have, alto- 
 gether, about six joints or buds, and three of these 
 should be under ground when planted. The cutting 
 should be fixed firmly in the ground, and the cuts should 
 be performed with a sharp knife, so that there may be 
 
VI. PROPAGATION. 
 
 nothing ragged or bruised about the bark. As to situa- 
 tion, watering, and the rest, follow precisely the direc- 
 tions given in the case of the slips. Currants and goose- 
 berries, some apples, and a great number of flowering 
 shrubs are universally propagated from cuttings. 
 
 204. BUDS are little pieces taken out from the side of 
 a shoot in the summer, containing a newly-formed bud, 
 which is fixed into the side of a branch growing upon 
 another tree j but, as buds will be more fully described 
 when I come to the act of budding, nothing more is 
 necessary upon the subject in this place. 
 
 905. STOCKS. — The general way of obtaining fruit- 
 trees of the larger kinds is by grafting or budding ; and 
 this grafting or budding is performed by putting cuttings 
 or buds upon other trees. They may be put upon large 
 trees, which are already bearing j so that, by these arts, 
 you may have numerous sorts of fruit upon the same 
 tree j but, what I am to treat of here is, the manner of 
 raising young trees 3 and, to have these, there must be 
 stocks previously prepared to receive the grafts or the 
 buds ; therefore, I now proceed to give directions for the 
 making of this previous preparation or provision. Under 
 the name of the different fruits, I shall speak of the sort 
 of stocks suitable to each j but I may observe here, that ^ 
 the stocks for apples are crabs, or apples ; that the stocks 
 for pears, are pears, quinces or hawthorn -, and that the 
 stocks for peaches and nectarines, are plums, peaches, 
 nectarines, or almonds j that the stocks for apricots are 
 plums or apricots : that the stocks for plums are plums j 
 that the stocks for cherries, are cherries j and that the 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 stocks for medlars are pears or hawthorn. In many of 
 the cases, stocks may be raised from suckers, and they 
 are so raised ; but never ought to be so raised. Suckers 
 are shoots that come up out of the ground, starting from 
 the roots of trees, and are very abundant from pears and 
 plums, and sometimes from cherries. They run to wood, 
 and produce suckers themselves in abundance, which 
 trees do not that are raised from seeds, cuttings, or 
 layers. Suckers, therefore, never ought to be used to 
 graft or bud upon ; for, if you graft a pear, for instance, 
 upon a pear sucker, the tree begins to send out suckers 
 almost immediately 3 and, in America, where this hasty 
 and lazy practice prevails, I have seen a pear orchard 
 with all the ground covered with underwood forming a 
 sort of coppice. I will, therefore, say no more about 
 suckers, but proceed now to the proper mode of obtain- 
 ing stocks, first speaking of those which are to be ob- 
 tained from the pips-, and then of those which are to be 
 obtained from the stones. The pips of crabs, apples, 
 pears and quinces, are obtained from the fruit : the three 
 former in great abundance when cider, perry, or verjuice 
 are made j the last with some difficulty, on account of 
 the comparative rareness of the fruit, but quince stocks 
 are so easily obtained from cuttings or layers that this is 
 not a matter of much consequence. The pips are, of 
 course, collected in the fall of the year j and when col- 
 lected, make them dry, put them immediately into fine 
 dry earth or sand, and keep them safe from mice until 
 the month of March. When that month comes, dig a 
 piece of ground well and truly, make it rich ; make it 
 very fine, form it into beds three feet wide, draw drills 
 across it at eight inches distance, make them from two 
 
\1. PROPAGATION. 
 
 to three inches deep, put in the seeds pretty thickly, 
 cover them completely, tread the earth down upon them j 
 and then smooth the surface. When the plants come up, 
 thin them to about three inches apart j and keep the 
 ground between them perfectly clean during the sum- 
 mer. Hoe frequently j but not deep near the plants ; for, 
 we are speaking of trees here j and trees do not renew 
 their roots quickly as a cabbage or a turnip does. These 
 young trees should be kept, during the first summer, as 
 moist as possible, without watering 3 and the way to keep 
 them as moist as possible, is, to keep the ground per- 
 fectly clean, and to hoe it frequently. I cannot help ob- 
 serving here upon an observation of Mr. Marshall : 
 " As to weeding" says he, *' though seedling trees must 
 " not be smothered, yet some small weeds may be sufiFered 
 " to grow in summer, as they help to shade the plants 
 " and to keep the ground cooV Mercy on this gentle- 
 man's readers! Mr. Marshall had not read Tull j if 
 he had, he never would have written this very erroneous 
 sentence. It is the root of the weed that does the 
 mischief. Let there be a rod of ground well set with 
 even " small weeds,'' and another rod kept weeded. Let 
 them adjoin each other. Go, after fifteen or twenty days 
 of dry weather } examine the two; and you will find the 
 weedless ground moist and fresh, while the other is dry 
 as dust to a foot deep. The root of the weed sucks up 
 every particle of moisture. What pretty things they are, 
 then, to keep seedling trees cool ! — To proceed : these 
 seedlings, if well managed, will be eight inches high, and 
 «ome higher, at the end of the first summer. The next 
 spring they should be taken up ; or, this may be done in 
 the fall. They should be planted in rows, four feet 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 apart, to give room to turn about amongst them j and at 
 two feet apart in the rows, if intended to be grafted or 
 budded without being again removed. If intended to be 
 again removed, before grafting or budding, they may be 
 put at a foot apart. They should be kept clean by hoe- 
 ing between them, and the ground between them should 
 be digged in the fall, but not at any other season of the 
 year. The plants will grow fast or slowly according to 
 the management; and, the proper age for budding 'or 
 grafting is from three to five years j but it is better^to 
 have a strong stock than a too weak or too young one. 
 The younger they are the sooner they will bear, but the 
 sooner they, also, decline and perish. To speak of the 
 kind of stocks most suitable to the diflferent kinds of 
 fruit-trees is reserved till we come to speak of the trees 
 themselves J but there are some remarks to be made 
 here, which have a general application, relative to the 
 kinds of stocks. It is supposed by some persons, that 
 the nature of the stock affects the nature of the fruit ; 
 that is to say, that the fruit growing on branches, pro- 
 ceeding from a bud, or a graft, partakes, more or less, of 
 the flavour of the fruit which would have grown on the 
 stock if the stock had been suffered to grow to a tree 
 and to bear fruit. This is Mr. Marshall's notion. But, 
 how erroneous it is must be manifest to every one, when 
 he reflects, that the stock for the pear tree is frequently 
 the white-thorn. Can a pear partake of the nature of the 
 haw, which grows upon the thorn, and which is a stone- 
 fruit too ? If this notion were correct, there could be 
 hardly a single apple-orchard in all England ; for they 
 are all grafted upon crab-stocks ; and, of course, all the 
 apples, in the course of years, would become crabs. 
 
VI. PLANTING. 
 
 Apricots and peaches are generally put on plum-stocks, 
 yet, after centuries of this practice, they do not become 
 plums. If the fruit of the graft partake of the nature of 
 the stock, why not the wood and leaves ? Yet, is it not 
 visible to all eyes, that neither ever does so partake } — 
 The bud, or graft, retains its own nature, wholly un- 
 changed by the stock j and, all that is of consequence, 
 as to the kind of stock, is, whether it be such as will 
 last long enough, and supply the tree with a suitable quan- 
 tity of wood. As to the stocks raised from stone-fruit, 
 the stones must be taken from the fruit when the fruit is 
 ripe, made perfectly dry in the sun ; then packed in per- 
 fectly dry sand, and kept there until the month of No- 
 vember, when the stones must be sowed in just the same 
 manner as described for the pips, except that they ought 
 not to be closer than an inch from each other in the 
 drill, and should be covered to the depth of three inches, 
 or, perhaps a little more. The plants will come up in 
 the Spring, and will attain a good height the first Sum- 
 mer. They should be transplanted in the Fall, first 
 taking oflF the tap root, and shortening the side roots. In 
 the next month of April, they should be cut down to the 
 ground and suffered to send up only a single stalk for 
 grafting or budding upon. They should now be planted 
 in rows at four feet apart and at a foot apart in the row, 
 in order to give room for the operations of grafting and 
 budding. There are cases when stocks raised from 
 layers are preferred j these cases will be mentioned under 
 the head of the fruit to which they apply, and the reader 
 already knows how to raise stocks from layers, because 
 it is done in just the same manner as when the layer is 
 intended to be a tree to bear fruit without budding or 
 l2 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 grafting. I cannot dismiss this part of the subject with- 
 out exhorting the reader never to make use of suckers 
 as stocks : by a very little additional care, you obtain 
 seedling stocks j and, really, if a man have not the trifling 
 portion of industry that is here required, he is unworthy of 
 the good fruit and the abundant crops which, with proper 
 management, he may generally make himself sure of. 
 
 206. GRAFTING.— When I come to the alphabetical 
 list of fruits, I shall speak of those circumstances con- 
 nected with grafting in which one sort of fruit differs 
 from another J but the mode of performing the operation 
 of grafting, and the mode of doing other things relative 
 to the stock and the scion, are the same in all cases, 
 therefore I shall in this place give the instructions neces- 
 sary for a knowledge of the arts of grafting and budding. 
 There is another thing, too, which is equally applicable in 
 all cases, and which ought to be mentioned before I enter 
 upon the subject of grafting and budding; and that is 
 this, that the stock ought to stand one whole summer upon 
 the spot where it is grafted or budded before that operation 
 is performed upon it. If stocks be planted out in the Fall 
 the sap does not rise vigorously enough in the Spring to 
 aflford a fair chance for the growing of the graft j but, 
 another remark of equal importance is that fruit-trees 
 should stand only one summer on the spot whence they 
 are to be removed to their final destination, because, if 
 they stand longer than this, they will have large and long 
 roots, great amputations must take place, and the tree 
 suffer exce;edingly. 
 
 207. Grafting is the joining of a cutting of one to ano- 
 ther tree in such a wav as that the tree, on which the 
 
VI. 
 
 PLANTING. 
 
 cutting is placed, sends up its sap into the cutting, and 
 makes it grow and become a tree. When a cutting is 
 thus applied it is called a scion. Certain stocks have beeft 
 found to be suited to certain scions, but these will be par- 
 ticularly mentioned hereafter in the articles treating of 
 the respective kinds of fruit. It is best that I confine 
 myself here, as much as possible, to instructions as to 
 the time of grafting, the mode of preparing the scion, 
 the mode of performing the operation of grafting, and, 
 lastly, to the treatment of the plant grafted. The time 
 of grafting is, generally, from the beginning of Febru- 
 ary to the end of March, beginning with the earliest 
 sorts of trees, as plums, cherries and pears, and ending 
 with the latest, as apples. But seasons are different, and 
 in a backward season, the season for grafting will be back- 
 ward, and in such case, the fulness and bursting appearance 
 of the buds of the stocks, and the mildness of the weather, 
 must be our guides. Not but much more than the necessary 
 importance is attached to this matter by us j for I have 
 seen an American negro-man, sitting by a six-plate stove, 
 grafting apple trees in the month of January, and then 
 putting away the grafted plants in a cave there to wait 'till 
 April, before he planted them ! However, it is certain 
 that mild weather with occasional showers, is the best 
 time for grafting. The mode of preparing the scion comes 
 next : take from the tree from which you mean to pro- 
 pagate, as many branches of last-year's wood as you 
 think will cut into the quantity of scions that you want : 
 but in choosing what branches to take, let the vigour of 
 the tree guide you in some measure. If it be a healthy, 
 flourishing, and young tree, take your branches from the 
 outside side shoots, for the upright ones at the top, or 
 those near the middle, are more likely to be given to 
 
FRUITS. Chap, 
 
 produce wood than fruit. Yet do not take branches from 
 the very lowest part of the tree if you can avoid it, as 
 these are sure to be more puling in their nature. In 
 case the tree be old, or weakly, then chuse the most vi- 
 gorous of its last-year's shoots, no matter where they 
 grow. Keep these branches uncut 'till you arrive at the 
 season of grafting, keeping them in the meanwhile buried 
 in dry mould : and when that season arrives, take them up 
 and cut them into the proper lengths for grafting. The 
 middle part of each branch will generally be found to be the 
 best -f but your branches may be scarce, and few in num- 
 ber, and then make use of every part. Each scion should 
 have from three to six eyes on it j but six will, in all cases, 
 be quite enough,as there is no use in an extraordinary length 
 of scion J but, on the contrary, it may be productive of 
 much mischief by overloading the head with young shoots 
 and leaves as summer advances, and thereby making it 
 more subject to accident from high winds or heavy rains. 
 
 208. The operaMon of Grafting is performed many ways, 
 though no one of them diflfers from any of the others in the 
 main principle, which is that of bringing the under, or 
 inner, bark of the scion to bear upon the same bark of 
 the stock J so that, the scion is (as I said before) a branch 
 of another tree, brought and made to occupy precisely 
 the place where a branch, or stem of the stock, was cut 
 off. The sap of the stock flows upward towards the 
 scion, and it will flow on into the scion, provided it find 
 no inteiTuption. Here, therefore is the nicety : to fit those 
 two barks so closely the one upon the other that the sap 
 shall proceed onward into the scion just as it would have 
 done into the amputated branch, causing the scion to 
 supplant the branch. I shall only mention and illustrate 
 
VI. 
 
 PLANTING. 
 
 two modes of grafting, namely, tongue-grafting, and cleft- 
 grafting. These two it is necessary for me to speak of 
 separately, and thoroughly to describe, for they are not 
 both of them applicable in all cases, the former being used 
 in grafting on small sized stocks, and small branches of 
 trees, and the latter on large stocks and large branches. 
 
 209. Tongue grafting. — Suppose you to have your stock 
 of the proper age for grafting (and for all about which, 
 see above, the article on Stocks), you cut it oflF at three 
 or four inches from the ground, and with a very sharp, 
 straight and narrow -bladed grafting-knife, cut a thin strip 
 of wood and bark upward from about two inches below 
 the top of your already-shortened stock. Make this cut 
 at one pull of the knife, inserting the edge rather hori- 
 zontally, and, when it has gone through the bark and 
 jnto the wood a little short of the middle, pull straight 
 upwards (plate 3. Jig. 1. o 6). 
 
 PLATE 3. 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. 4. Fig. 5. 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 Then, at less, rather, than half way down this cut, and 
 with the blade of your knife across the cut, and down- 
 ward, cut a very thin tongue of not more than three- 
 eighths of an inch long (plate 3. Jig. 1. c). Proceed 
 nearly in the same way with the bottom part of the 
 scion : cut first a narrow strip of wood and bark out, 
 but not putting the knife in horizontally as you have 
 done with regard to the stock at Jig. I . a., nor bring- 
 ing it out straight to the end to make a shoulder or 
 angle, as you have done with the stock at ^g. 1. 6.j 
 but make a sloping cut (plate 3. Jig. 9,. a. b.) of about the 
 same length as the cut in the stock, or a little less if any 
 thing J then make a tongue (plate 3. fig. 2. c.) to cor- 
 respond with that in the stock, but recollect that this 
 must be cut upward instead of downward-, then place the 
 scion upon the stock, inserting the tongue of the scion 
 into the tongue of the stock. Bring the four edges of 
 bark, that is, the two edges of the cut in the top of the 
 stock, and the two corresponding edges of the cut in the 
 bottom of the scion, to meet precisely ; or, if the scion 
 be in diameter a smaller piece of wood than the stock, 
 so that its two edges of bark cannot both meet those of 
 the stock, then let only one meet, but be sure that that 
 one meets precisely. But observe well, that this can 
 never be, unless the first cut in the stock and that in the 
 scion (plate 3. Jigures 1 and 2, a and h.) be as even as a 
 die, and performed by a knife scarcely less sharp than a 
 razor. Take a common pruning-knife, and attempt to 
 make a cut of this kind, and you will find, when you 
 come to fit the scion on, that, squeeze them together as 
 you may, you will, in most cases, see light between the 
 parts of the stock and the scion that you are trying to 
 
VI. PLANTING. 
 
 join so effectually as that the sap shall Jiow out of the one 
 and into the other unconscious of any division at all ! But I 
 will not suppose any body so ungain (as it is called in 
 Hampshire) as to go about so nice an operation as this 
 without being prepared with the proper instrument for 
 performing it ; and^ therefore, I now suppose the scion 
 put on properly and presenting the appearance as in 
 plate 3. ^g. 3. But this is not all : the operation is not 
 yet complete. The two parts thus joined must be bound 
 closely to one another by matting, or bass, as the gar- 
 deners call it (pi. 3.^g. 4). A single piece tied on to the 
 stock an inch or so below the part grafted, and then 
 wound closely up till it reach the very top of the stock, 
 will, if well done, almost insure the junction j but, lest 
 parching winds should come and knit up all vegetation, 
 it is usual to put on, besides the bandage of matting, a 
 ball of well-beaten clay, sprinkled over with a little 
 wood-ashes, or the fine siftings of cinders, to cover com- 
 pletely the parts grafted, that is, from an inch below 
 them to an inch or so above them (pi. 3. ^g. 5.) ; and 
 even to prevent this ball of clay from being washed off 
 by heavy rains, it is well to tie round it a covering of 
 coarse canvass, or else to earth up the whole plant as 
 you do peas or beans, drawing a little mound round it so 
 as nearly to reach the top of the clay. Something now 
 remains to be said on the future treatment of the grafted 
 plant. In a month's time, at least, you will see whether 
 the scion have taken 3 it will then be either bursting 
 forth into leaf, or it will be irrecoverably dead. In this 
 latter case, take oflF immediately canvass, clay, bandage 
 and dead scion, and let the stock push forth what shoots 
 it please, and recover itself. In the former case, how- 
 h 5 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 ever, you must, as soon as the scion is putting forth 
 shoots, cut off, or rub ofif, all shoots proceeding from the 
 stock between the ground and the clay, as these, if suf- 
 fered to push on, would divert the sap away from the 
 scion and probably starve it j then carefully stake the 
 plant, that is, put a small stick into the ground at within 
 three inches, or thereabouts, of the root, and long 
 enough to reach a few inches above the scion, which you 
 will tie to it slightly with a piece of wetted matting. 
 This is really necessary, for, when the shoots proceed- 
 ing from the scion, become half a foot long, they, 
 with the aid of their leaves, become so heavy, that 
 when blown to and fro by the wind, will break oflf 
 immediately above the clay, or become loosened down 
 at the part joined to the stock. The staking being 
 done, you need do nothing more till about the end of 
 June, when you should take ofif the whole mass of can- 
 vass, clay, and bandage 3 but be very careful, in taking 
 ofif the clay, not to break ofif the plant at the junction. 
 It should be done by a careful hand, and after a day or 
 two of rainy weather, as then the clay is moist and comes 
 ofif without so much danger to the plant as when it is 
 not. On taking ofif the clay, there is found a little sharp 
 angle left at the top of the slock j this should now be 
 cut smooth ofif, as is marked by the dots at a, in fig. 3. 
 The bark of the stock and that of the scion will heal 
 over this, and the union is then complete. Lastly, it is 
 frequently found that mould, and sometimes small vermin, 
 have collected round the heretofore covered parts of the 
 plant, according as the clay has been cracked by the sun. 
 Rub ofif all mould with your fingers. No instrument 
 does it so well 5 and kill all vermin in the same way ; 
 
VI. 
 
 PLANTING. 
 
 and it is not amiss to finish this work by washing the 
 joined parts with a little soap and water, using a small 
 painting-brush for the operation. All these things done, 
 you have now only to guard against high winds, which, 
 if the plants be not staked as is above described, will 
 very likely be broken ofif by them, and, in this work of 
 destruction, you will have the mortification to see the 
 finest of your plants go first. 
 
 210. Cleft grafting. — ^This, as I said above, is a species 
 of grafting adopted in cases where the stock is large, or 
 where it consists of a branch or branches of a tree 
 headed down. In either of these cases, saw ofiF horizon- 
 tally the part you wish to graft, and smooth the wound 
 over with a carpenter's plane or a sharp long-bladed 
 knife (plate 4. fig. 1). 
 
 PLATE 4. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Prepare your scion in this manner : at about an inch and 
 ' a half from the bottom, cut it in the form of the blade of 
 a razor, that is, make it sharp on one side and let it be 
 blunt at the back, where you will also take care to leave 
 the bark whole (plate 4. fig. % a). Having thus pre- 
 pared the scion, make a split (plate 4, fig* 1. a.) in the 
 
 \ 
 
FRUITS. ■■ CflAl'. 
 
 crown of the saw-cut, downwards, for about two inches, 
 taking care that the two sides of this split be perfectly 
 even. Hold it then open by means of a chisel or a 
 wedge (or when the stock is but a small one, your 
 knife), and insert the scion, the sharp edge going inwards, 
 and the bark-side, or razor-back, remaining outward, so 
 that, on taking out the wedge or chisel, the cleft closes 
 firmly upon the scion (plate 4. Jig. 3.), the two edges of 
 bark formed by the cleft squeezing exactly upon the two 
 edges of bark formed by the blunt razor-back. To make 
 the two barks meet precisely, is, the reader will see, the 
 only nicety in this operation ; but this is so essential 
 that the slightest deviation will defeat the purpose. In 
 this sort of grafting, the stock on which you graft is 
 generally strong enough to hold the scion close enough 
 within its cleft without the aid of binding, and then it is 
 better not to bind ; but, as it is also necessary to pre- 
 vent air circulating within the wounded parts both of the 
 stock and the scion, use grafting-clay to cover them 
 over so as eflFectually to exclude that air, and cover the 
 clay with a piece of coarse canvass, wetting it first and 
 then binding it on securely. In this way, the stock being 
 strong, you may insert several scions on the same head, 
 by making several different cliefts and putting one scion 
 in each j but this can only be to insure your having two to 
 succeed, for, if all the scions that you put upon one head, 
 take, you must chuse the two most eligible, and sacrifice 
 the rest, as more than two leading limbs from such head 
 ought not to be encouraged. The season for performing 
 this sort of grafting, and the mode of preparing the 
 scion, and the future treatment of the tree, are precisely 
 the sa^me BS in Tongue grafting. 
 
VL PLANTING. 
 
 211. I have mentioned an application of clay to be 
 used in grafting j but it may be as well here to give some 
 particular instructions as to preparing this, before I end 
 this article on grafting. The object being to put some- 
 thing round the wounded parts of the stock and the scion 
 that shall exclude water and air, it is necessary, of course, 
 that the application be adhesive and close. Pure yellow 
 or blue clay is both, if you beat it well with a good stout 
 stick, now-and-then pouring on a little water to make it 
 work. Get it, in this way, to be perfectly pliable in the 
 hand. Beat it upon a hard stone, or a boarded floor, or a 
 brick floor swept clean first j but beat it again and again, 
 returning to it for two or three days, and taking a spell 
 each day. If you suffer it to remain hard, besides the 
 danger of unsettling the scion in squeezing round it this 
 untractable mass, it cracks, the very first hot day, and is 
 utterly useless. Let it, therefore, be so loose that the man 
 who follows the grafter to put it on, can take oflF a piece and 
 readily flatten it out into a kind of pan-cake, an inch or so 
 thick, and wrap it, without any exertion on his part, or any 
 resistance on the part of the plant, round the grafted tree. 
 Then he should sprinkle a little wood-ashes over the whole 
 to dry it and take oflF the immediate effect of the sun. 
 
 212. BUDDING is performed for precisely the same 
 purpose as grafting, and, like grafting, it is performed in 
 many different ways j but I shall only notice the most 
 usual, and, as long experience has ascertained, the best, 
 method : namely, that of T budding, so called from the 
 form of the two cuts that are made in the bark of the 
 stock to receive the bud (pi. 5. Jig. I.) ; or shield budding, 
 as it is sometimes called, from the form of the piece of 
 
FRUITS. 
 
 Chap. 
 
 bark on which the bud is seated (pi. 5. fig. 2.) assuming 
 
 the shape of a shield when it is prepared to be inserted 
 
 within the T cut in the stock. The only solid difference 
 
 PLATE. 5. 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 
 
 between budding and grafting is this, that, whereas, in 
 grafting, you insert on the stock a branch already produced, 
 in budding, you insert only the hud. I shall proceed, in 
 treating of this matter, in the same way that I did in the 
 preceding article j namely, as to the season proper for 
 budding f the choosing and preparing of the bud, the operation 
 of budding, and the future treatment of the plant budded. 
 
 213. The season for budding is, generally, frflfm the 
 latter end of July to the latter end of August, the cri- 
 terions being a plump appearance of the bud formed on 
 the spring shoot of the same year, seated in the angle 
 of a leaf J and, a readiness in the bark of the stock 
 to separate from the wood. 
 
 214. In chusing and preparing the bud, fix on one 
 seated at about the middle of a healthy shoot of the Mid- 
 summer growth. These are, generally speaking, most 
 
VI. PLANTING. 
 
 inclined to fruitfulness. Choose a cloudy day, if you 
 have a choice of days at this season, and, if not, perform 
 your work early in the morning, or in the evening. The 
 time being proper, you sever the branch on which you 
 find buds to your liking. Take this with you to the stock 
 that you are going to bud. Holding the branch in your 
 left hand, the largest end downward, make a sloping cut 
 from about an inch and a half below the bud, to about 
 an inch above it, suffering your knife to go through the 
 bark and about half way into the wood, cutting out wood 
 and all. This keeping of the wood prevents the bud and 
 its bark from drying while you are preparing the incision 
 in the stock j and, if you wish to carry buds of scarce 
 sorts to any distance, you may do so safely by putting 
 their ends in water or in damp moss, but it is always 
 safer, as well in grafting as in budding, to perform the 
 operation with as much expedition as possible, but par- 
 ticularly it is so in budding. 
 
 ?15. Operation of budding. Cut off the leaf under which 
 the bud is seated, but leave its foot-stalk {pi. ?>.Jig. 2. a.) 
 and, by this, hold it between your lips, while, with your 
 budding-knife, you cut two straight lines in the stock at 
 the place where you wish to insert the bud, and this 
 should be at a place where the bark is smooth, free from 
 any bruises or knots, and on the side rather from the 
 mid-day sun. Of these lines, let the first be horizontal, 
 (pi. b.Jig.l. a.) and let the next be longitudinal, beginning 
 at the middle of the first cut, and coming downward 
 (pi. 5. Jig. 1. b). Let them, in short, describe the two 
 principal bars of the Roman letter T. You have now to 
 take out from the bark on which vour bud is, the piece 
 
 i 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 of wood on which the bark is, and which has served you 
 up to this time, to preserve the bark and bud from dry- 
 ing and shrinking. But this is a nice matter. In doing 
 it, you must be careful not to endanger the root, as it is 
 called, of the bud. because in that is its existence. The 
 bark (if the season be proper for budding) will easily 
 detach itself from this piece of wood, but still it requires 
 very careful handling to get it out without endangering 
 the root of the bud. Hold the bud upon your fore-finger 
 and keep your thumb on the wood opposite j then, with 
 the fore-finger and thumb of the other hand, bend back- 
 ward and forward the lower end of the shield, and thus 
 coax the wood to disengage itself from the bark j and 
 when you find it decidedly doing so, remove your thumb 
 from it and the whole piece of wood will come out, 
 leaving you nothing but a piece of bark of about two and 
 a half inches long, with a bud and foot-stalk of a leaf on 
 it. If the root of the bud be carried away with the piece 
 of wood, you will perceive a small catity where it ought 
 to be. In this case, throw away the bud and try another. 
 
 216. Having succeeded in a second attempt, now open 
 the two sides of the longitudinal bar of the T, with the 
 ivory haft of your budding-knife (pi. S.^Sg. J. h.) ; but, in 
 doing this, raise the bark clearly down to the wood, for 
 the inside of the piece of bark belonging to the bud 
 must be placed directly against this. Having opened 
 these sides wide enoiigh to receive the longest end of 
 bark, insert it nicely : taking especial care that its inner 
 side lie Jiatly against the wood of the stock. Then cut the 
 upper end of the bark oflf so that its edge shall meet pre- 
 cisely the edge of the horizontal bar of the T (pl.5./g.l.a.). 
 
VI. PLANTING* 
 
 With your finger and thumb, "bring the two sides of the 
 longitudinal bar over the bark of the bud, or, rather, the 
 shield, and, with a piece of well-soaked matting, begin 
 an inch below this bar and bind firmly all the way up to 
 an inch above the horizontal bar, taking good care to 
 leave the bud peeping out. Bind in such a way as to 
 exclude the air, for that is the intent of binding in this 
 case. Tie your piece of matting on first, and then wind 
 it round and round the stock as you would a ribbon, 
 taking care not to twist the matting. Wind it slowly ^ 
 and every time you have gone completely round, give a 
 gentle pull to make it firm. 
 
 217. Future treatment. — In a fortnight's time from the 
 operation, you will discover whether the bud have 
 taken, by its roundness and healthy look j and, in a fort- 
 night after that, loosen the bandage to allow the whole 
 plant to swell 3 and, in about five weeks from the time 
 of budding, take away the bandage altogether. In this 
 state the plant passes the winter, and, just as the sap 
 begins to be in motion, in the following spring, you head 
 down the stock at about half an inch above the bud, 
 beginning behind it, and making a sloping cut upward to 
 end above its point. Some gardeners leave a piece of 
 the stock about six inches long for the first year, in order 
 to tie the first summer's shoot to it, to prevent its being 
 broken off by the wind. This may be well, when the 
 plant is exposed to high winds, but, even then, if you 
 see danger, you may tie a short stick on to the top part 
 of the stock and to this tie the young shoot, and then 
 the sap all goes into the shoot from the bud, instead of 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 being divided between it and the six inches of stock left 
 in the other way, 
 
 218. There are some advantages that budding has over 
 grafting y and these I think it right to mention. In the 
 first place, universal experience has proved that certain 
 trees succeed very much better when budded than the 
 same trees do when grafted : such are, the peach, nec- 
 tarine, apricot, plum and cherry 3 indeed, the rule is, that 
 all stone fruits do better budded than grafted. That they 
 are, wh^n budded, less given to gum, a disease peculiar 
 to stone fruits and often very pernicious to them. You 
 may, also, by budding, put two or more branches upon 
 a stock that would be too weak to take so many grafts y 
 and you may bud in July when grafting has failed iu 
 March and April. The disadvantage of budding, is, that 
 the trees are rendered one year later in coming into 
 bearing than wlien you graft. 
 
 219. PLANTING.— Under the heads of the several 
 trees in the list which will follow hereafter, directions 
 will be given with regard to the age, the size, and other 
 circumstances which will be found to vary according to 
 the several purposes and situations for which the trees 
 are intended. I shall here, therefore, confine myself 
 merely to the act of planting ; that is to say, the manner 
 of removing a young tree from one spot and placing it 
 in another J the rules here being applicable to all trees. 
 The first thing to be observed is, that, though trees will 
 grow if kept out of the ground for a considerable time, 
 they ought to be kept in that state as short a time as 
 possible, and, during even that short time, the roots 
 
VI. PLANTING. 
 
 ought to be exposed as little as possible to the sun and 
 wind. The taking up of a young tree ought to be per- 
 formed with the greatest possible care, especially if it 
 have stood in the place whence it is taken for more than 
 one year. And here let me stop for a minute in order to 
 re-impress upon the mind of the reader the importance 
 of the observation which I made in paragraph 206. 
 After having read that paragraph again, the reader will 
 please to observe, that all long roots must be pruned off 
 to within at most four or five inches of the stem of the 
 tree ; and that, if the tree have stood too long in its 
 place before its final removal, this loss of root will ren- 
 der it absolutely necessary to cut off the upper part of 
 the tree very near to the ground j and even after that, 
 will make it very slow to re-enter upon vigorous growth. 
 If, therefore, you be not ready for the transplanting of 
 your trees, at the time when they might be transplanted, 
 rather than let them stand to get these long roots, take 
 them up in the fall of the year, give the roots and heads 
 a pruning, and plant them again, so that you may not 
 experience the great check at the final transplanting. 
 
 220. I return now to the taking up of the tree, which 
 ought to be done without tearing any of the roots, 
 and which is not done Without such tearing one time out of 
 twenty. You ought to dig some earth away a little dis- 
 tance all round the tree to a considerable depth, and 
 nearly let it tumble down of itself j for, if you pull, you 
 break a root j and, if that root be large, and break off 
 near the stem of the tree, the tree will have a bad root 
 and will never grow finely. Having taken the tree fairly 
 out of the ground, you begin by pruning the root. All 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 the larger shoots of the roots you cut oflf to within six 
 inches of the stem, and you take entirely out all the 
 hairy fibres j for they never grow again and they are apt 
 to mould and to keep the earth from closely touching the 
 roots out of which the new shoots are to come. Having 
 pruned the root, you proceed to plant the tree. The 
 hole must be much deeper and wider than is required for 
 the mere reception of the root. The earth ought to be 
 broken very finely at the bottom of the hole. When 
 that is done, the root of the tree ought to be placed 
 upon it in such a manner as for the tree to stand about 
 an inch higher above the ground than it stood before it 
 was removed. If the tree be to be placed against a 
 wall, the head should lean gently against the wall, and 
 the bottom of the trunk about eight or ten inches from 
 it : if the tree be to be planted in the open ground, 
 the trunk should be held perfectly upright : while thus 
 held, very fine earth should be put upon the roots : if it 
 were sifted, so much the better : the tree should be 
 joggled or shaken a little to cause the earth to go down 
 and in amongst the roots and fill up all the cavities, so 
 that the fine earth may touch the roots, and lie closely 
 round them in every part. If you tumble in the rough 
 earth, which would leave part of the roots untouched, 
 the parts so untouched will mould, will perish, or 
 become cankered. When the roots are all covered with 
 very fine earth, you may fill up the hole with the earth 
 that has come out of it, only taking care to break it 
 very fine. Before you have put in quite all the earth, 
 give a gentle tread all round the tree with your foot, 
 treading first at a foot distance from the tree, and ap- 
 proaching all round to within three or four inches j thea 
 
. VI. TRAINING AND PRUNING. 
 
 put the rest of the earth over the treading, and leave the 
 surface round the treading in the form of a dish. 
 
 221. If you plant late in the spring, lay a little short 
 litter into the dish, and give the tree a watering occa- 
 sionally until the month of July, unless the weather ob- 
 viously render such operation unnecessary. I am par- 
 ticularly anxious that the reader should attend to this 
 part of my instructions j for, nine times out of ten, 
 when failure takes place, careless planting is the cause. 
 If you purchase trees, you should look well at the 
 roots 5 and, if they be very large, or at all torn, it is 
 much better to fling the trees away than to plant them j 
 for what are a few shillings, or even a few pounds, when 
 compared with the loss of years, in providing yourself 
 with fruit ? 
 
 TRAINING AND PRUNING. 
 
 M 222. Training and pruning go together : they are two 
 ■parts of the same act, because you lay the branch in its 
 proper place at the same time that you cut it. They are, 
 therefore, inseparable as matters to be treated of. There 
 are, however, different sorts of training : one against 
 walls or pales, or against a house j and the trees thus 
 situated are called wall-trees. After these, come espaliers 
 and dwarf trees iti various shapes for a garden. These 
 will be spoken of by and by j and, at last, I shall speak 
 of the planting of standard trees for an orchard. The 
 main principles of pruning are the same in all cases : 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 the objects are, to render trees productive, to preserve 
 their health, and to keep them in regular and convenient 
 form ; for, in this case, as well as in almost every other, 
 though nature does a great deal, she w^ill not do all : she 
 will not do every thing : she must be and will be as- 
 sisted J and certainly the management of fruit-trees may 
 be considered as one of the principal parts of the art of 
 gardening. 
 
 223. I shall now give instructions for the pruning"of 
 peach trees placed against walls. If I were to stop at every 
 particular part of the instructions, in order to point out 
 the difference between the pruning of a peach tree and 
 that of the apricot and other trees, the mind of the 
 reader would be bewildered : therefore, I shall keep the 
 peach tree solely in my eye while giving these instruc- 
 tions J and, as this head of training and pruning will im- 
 mediately be followed by an Alphabetical List of Fruits, 
 the reader will find, under the name of each fruit, such 
 remarks as are required to point out to him in what 
 respect he is to differ in his training and pruning from 
 the rules laid down in the case of the peach. He will, 
 therefore, please to observe, that, in the instructions 
 which I am now about to give, I have the peach tree 
 solely in my eye. 
 
 224. Training and pruning involve so many circum- 
 stances, such a great variety of objects and of opera- 
 tions, that to give minute instructions upon the subject 
 absolutely demand a great space ; and, after all, it is 
 fortunate, when mechanical operations are to be de- 
 scribed by words J it is extremely fortunate, if the writer 
 
VI. TRAINING AND PRUNING. 
 
 make himself clearly understood j and, indeed, it is im- 
 possible for him to do it unless he have the best aitentim 
 of the reader : it is not a clear statement of a fact ; it is 
 not a mere affirmation or negation, that is required here } 
 nor is it in the construction of an argument and the 
 drawing of a conclusion : here we have to describe innu- 
 merable minute acts to be performed with the hands and 
 the fingers ; and, I have always found, that to be intelli- 
 gible, in such a case^ is the most difficult thing that one 
 experiences in the use of words. Hence it is that this is 
 hardly ever attempted without the assistance of drawings, 
 or of something that teaches throug'h the channel of the 
 eye. I shall do my best to make myself clearly under- 
 stood ; and, if I have the strict attention of the reader, I 
 have little doubt of success. I shall first offer some pre- 
 liminary observations, and to these I request the reader's 
 extraordinary attention. 
 
 225. The time, or rather times, of pruning, are common 
 to all fruit trees. The winter pruning is performed ia 
 February, March and April, beginning with the earliest 
 sorts of trees (with reference to their blooming) and end- 
 ing with the latest, forming this series : apricot, peach, 
 plum, pear, cherry, apple. Quinces and medlars will be 
 spoken of sufficiently under the names of those trees, as 
 will gooseberries, currants, and raspberries. It may be 
 matter of indifference, perhaps, whether the winter 
 pruning of the above mentioned trees take place in one 
 of the afore-mentioned months or the other } but three 
 things are to be observed in the case of all trees j that 
 pruning ought not to be done during the time of flower- 
 ing } and that the summer pruning ought not to be done 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 'till after the fruit has attained a considerable size j that 
 it is essential always to prune with a very sharp knife j 
 that the cut ought to be from below, upwards, beginning 
 behind a bud, and finishing near its opening, taking good 
 care not to hurt it. A rubbishing pruning-knife, a thing 
 made of bad stuff, or in bad shape, will spoil any set of 
 trees in the world. The best pruning-knives that I have 
 ever seen are made by Mr. Richardson of Kensington. 
 
 226. Preliminary observations. — First: The sap of trees 
 tends always to mount perpendicularly from the root to 
 the top, flowing through the straight branches, and there 
 producing wood instead of fruit. Therefore, when you 
 wish to restore equality between two branches of which 
 one is more weak than the other, bend the more vigorous 
 one down a little and raise the other, and it will soon 
 overtake it. Also, when you wish a tree to furnish well 
 at bottom, you must prevent the sap mounting to the 
 head by inclining the upper branches downwards and 
 pruning them long, and, if necessary, by means of the 
 annulary incision. 
 
 227. Second : the less the sap has of direct channels^ 
 the less it can freely circulate between the bark, the 
 more it will produce of branches and fruit-buds. Thus, it 
 is, perhaps, that the graft and the annulary incision, by 
 stopping the progress of the sap, augment the quantity, 
 and improve the quality of the fruit. So, when a tree 
 runs to wood, bend the branches downwards j stop the 
 sap, and force it to produce fruit. 
 
 228. Third : the sap flies more strongly into a short- 
 
VI. TRAINING AND PRUNING. 
 
 ened branch than into another, and the more the branch be 
 shortened, with the more force will the sap be drawn to 
 it. Therefore, when one part of a tree becomes less 
 strong than the other, prune it shorter, so that the sap 
 may go there in greater abundance and reinforce the 
 weakened part. This shows, too, that, to have fruit, you 
 should prune long; and short, to have wood. For 
 instance, if you cut down to within two or three buds, 
 you will have nothing but strong woodj biit cut off 
 in the middle, the extremity will then furnish wood, 
 the middle spurs, and the lower end, fruit shoots j 
 so also, prune not at all, and incline horizontally, and 
 you will have nothing but blossom-buds. From these 
 premises, it may be concluded, that, when you have a 
 branch given to bear, instead of pruning it long, as is the 
 practice with most gardeners, it should be pruned short 
 to produce an influx of sap sufficient to nourish and per- 
 fect the fruit j and that the vigorous wood shoots, which 
 the French call gourmands, or gluttons, should be pruned 
 long. 
 
 ?29. Fourth : If you cut a branch completely ofiF, the 
 sap goes to the neighbouring branches and shoots. When 
 a branch, therefore, becomes diseased and is difficult to 
 cure, sacrifice it without hesitation. The neighbouring 
 branches will soon replace it, and, perhaps, in less time 
 than it would have taken in the cure, if that had been 
 possible. 
 
 230. Fifth : Every shoot that has been topped or 
 Jis-budded, throws out, from superabundance of sap, a 
 juantity of shoots and fruit buds. So, if by means of 
 
 M 
 
FRUITS. CU^\ 
 
 bending, you cannot prevent a branch throwing out woodi 
 top it and pinch off the side buds when they are bursting^ 
 and it will then tend to fruit. 
 
 
 231. Sixth : The duration and the strength of a tree 
 depend upon an equality existing constantly between its 
 head and its roots, as well as between the different parts of 
 its head. You should never, therefore, cut back a tree 
 to its main limbs or to its trunk unless there be a corre- 
 sponding deficiency in the roots, either from old age or 
 from accident. This proves the necessity of pruning very 
 short on transplanting. If one part of the branches, by 
 strong growth, take the sap destined for the other part, 
 these decline rapidly, and finish by complete decay, in 
 which they do not fail to involve the whole tree. 
 
 232. Seventh : The more a tree is forced into bearing, 
 the more it is exhausted 3 but the more it is suffered to 
 put forth wood, the more it is vigorous. This principle 
 proves that we should never suffer a tree to become over- 
 loaded with fruit-branches, or that we expose ourselves 
 to iose it altogether in a few years, or, at least, to see it 
 barren for one, two, or even three, years. But an intel- 
 ligent gardener will always take care to provide an even 
 quantity of branches both for wood and fruit j and the 
 result will be that he will have a greater quantity of 
 fruit, and of finer quality, and that he may rest assured 
 of this annually without injuring the tree or shortening its 
 duration. 
 
 233. These principles are applicable to all fruit-trees, 
 but there is another which applies more particularly tp 
 
VI. tRAININO AND PRUNING. 
 
 the stone-fruits, and, of these, mostly to the peach- 
 
 tree. 
 
 234. Eighth: The fruit-buds, particularly of stone- 
 fruits, to form and bring to maturity their fruit, should 
 be accompanied by shoot-buds, which draw the sap 
 towards them. Every fruit-branch which has not these 
 dries up and dies without bearing. It often happens that 
 the severity of the winter destroys the shoot-buds which 
 are coming alongside the fruit-buds ^ and those who 
 prune before this can be discovered, stand the chance of 
 leaving fruit-branches without wood- buds, and conse- 
 quently, of seeing these dry up and die as soon as they 
 have flowered. Every fruit-branch which has, at its ex- 
 tremity, nothing but a wood-bud, should be shortened 
 unless you wish to preserve it for a wood-branch 3 but 
 do this only in the last extremity, because it will always 
 remain sterile below. 
 
 • 235. Between the stone-fruits and the pip-fruits, there 
 is a great deal of difference in the manner of bearing. 
 The latter bear on little branches of from two to three 
 inches long, called spurs. These are two or three years 
 in forming, and they generally come upon other small 
 branches. The first year, a spur has three leaves, 
 the second, five, and the third, seven. The stone-fruits, 
 as the peach for instance, bear their fruit on branches 
 of one year's growth, which should, therefore,be shorten- 
 ed at every winter pruning. The fruit-buds of these 
 ^t are easily recognised. They are round and ruddy, 
 and garnished with a cotton envelope j whereas the 
 wood-buds are, on the contrary, long and of a green colour. 
 M 2 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 236. Any form may be given to a tree, so that it be 
 suited to its nature, to the aspect, and to the soil. Foe 
 instance, the wall-tree is placed flat against a wall well 
 exposed to the sun j the espalier, pyramid, bush, and dwarf 
 trees, generally grafted on stocks which yield but little 
 sap, are placed in the borders of the garden, and produce 
 little shade, and require a less deep soil than the standard 
 or half-standard. The stocks on which it is proper ta 
 graft these trees will be mentioned in the articles treating' 
 of the particular management of each. 
 
 237. The French method of pruning, as practised at 
 Montreuil, is that to which the peach-tree is subjected. 
 And, as the peach-tree is the most delicate, and the most 
 difficult to manage, I will take it as the model of a 
 good form, and I shall refer to this article in speaking 
 of other trained trees, which ought all to be pruned in 
 the same manner, with the slight exceptions of keeping 
 the fruit-branches of the pip-fruits a longer time, because 
 they do not bear till about the second or third year, 
 though they last much longer ; and of leaving on these 
 branches fewer wood-buds, because they are not wanted 
 for such constant succession. These differences will be 
 treated of in the articles on each particular sort of fruit. 
 
 •^38, The wood-branches of the peach-tree are known 
 by their vigour, by their thickness, equal to, if not sur- 
 passing, that of the little finger j by their length of about 
 from three to six feet, and by their bark, which is grey 
 from the first year. The fruit-branches, at most not 
 larger than a large quill, are from six inches to two feet 
 
I- 
 
 TRAINING AND TRUNING. 
 
 long ; their bark is very smooth, green on the side 
 towards the wall, and red on the side towards the sun. 
 Sometimes the flower-blossoms are assembled in clusters 
 round a short shoot, or spur of one or two inches long, 
 with a wood- bud at the end sufficient to draw the sap 
 which is necessary to nourish the fruit. : " (»t .^: 
 
 ^39. First Year — Suppose the young tree placed against 
 a wall, the first shoot of the graft (or bud) never having 
 been pruned (plate 6. fig^ !.)• Cut it off at six or eight 
 
 PLATE 6. 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 
 
 inches above the stock (pi. 6. Jig. 1. a) j and then, when 
 it has sent out its shoots, nail them, after having taken 
 off all that come before or behind. It is a general rule 
 never to leave any shoots but such as come at the sides of 
 the branches. Choose, amongst your young shoots, two 
 of equal vigour, one on each side, by which means to 
 form your two principal branches that are always to re- 
 main ; and, having done this, cut off all the rest. If one 
 of them become longer or more vigorous than the 
 other, incline it downwards to suffer the other to gain the 
 advantage. If one of the two perish, train the other 
 straight again, prune it precisely as you did the graft, anf* 
 
FRUITS. ChAI*. 
 
 procure other two branches from it. Tlie only mischief 
 is, that your tree is thus thrown back a year. When you 
 nail up the two main, or mother, branches, extend them 
 so as to form a very wide letter V (say an angle of ninety 
 degrees), but being cautious never, on any account or 
 at any age, to bend or arch them, or assuredly the se- 
 condary branches run off with all the sap, and your tree 
 is deformed. 
 
 240. Second Year. — Do not attempt more than to pro- 
 cure a lower secondary branch and to lengthen the 
 mother-branch, (plate 6. ^g. *2. a.) Therefore prune 
 close to the old shoot, that is at two buds from it, and 
 of these two buds, the end one must be an upper one, 
 to prolong the mother-branch, and the under one will 
 throw out the lower secondary branch. Nail, and that is all. 
 
 241. Third Year. — This year you must procure an 
 upper secondary branch, fruit-branches (plate 6. Jig. 2. 
 c.) on the lower secondary branch, and again a lengthen- 
 ing of the mother-branch. For these purposes prune the 
 mother-branch at two buds again, but let both buds be 
 on the upper side of the branch, the end one to carry 
 on the mother-branch, and the other to form the upper 
 secondary branch, (plate 6. Jig. 2. b.) If two successive 
 buds should not be found thus placed, prune them at 
 three buds from the last year's wood, but, in this case, 
 rub off the intermediate bud which will be on the under 
 side. To obtain lateral branches from the lower secon- 
 dary branch, prune it in the same manner. 
 
 242. Fourth Year, — Lengthen the mother-branch, and 
 get a second lower secondary branch, (plate 6. Ji§. 2, d.) 
 
VI. TRAINING AND PRUNING. 
 
 243. Fifth Year.' — Same operation ; but get a second 
 upper secondary branch, (plate 6. Jig. 2. e.) 
 
 244. Sixth Year. — Same operation. Third lower se- 
 condary branch ; and, if the tree have been taken care 
 of, and its form have not been sacrificed to a too great 
 eagerness to get fruit quickly, the peach-tree is formed. 
 And if it have all the requisites, that is to say, health in 
 its nature, a good aspect, and suitable land, it ought to 
 extend to between twelve and twenty feet in length, and 
 eight in height over the surface of the wall. 
 
 245. All trees ^will not so readily assume this form ; 
 therefore I will anticipate a few cases, and point out 
 the means of remedying the evil. Though a gardener, 
 thoroughly embued with these principles, and applying 
 them under all circumtsances, can never be in error. 
 
 246. If the upper secondary branches, favoured by 
 their more perpendicular position, flourish at the expense 
 of the mother-branch, incline them downward, even, if 
 necessary, to touch the mother-branch, to re-establish the 
 equality. And you may also leave some fruit-buds to 
 slacken the sap -, and, at the time of nailing, shorten the 
 mother-branch at a strong wood-bud, whilst you take 
 care to prune at a weak one on the branch or branches 
 that you have lowered. In order that both the sides of 
 the tree may be alike, the corresponding secondary 
 branches, both upper and under, should be pruned at buds 
 of the same vigour and at the same height. The same 
 with regard to the mother-branches. 
 
ffttfTS. CtiAP. 
 
 shoots that come irti mediately before of immediately 
 behind should be severed, and those that you leave at the 
 sides will profit by it. Recollect always that the shoot 
 you save for a wood-branch should be healthy and 
 vigorous ; and if the one best suited to your purpose as 
 to locality, be not so, reject it and fix on a lower and 
 healthier. When the fruit is set, all the shoots proceed- 
 ing from the bearing branches, should be removed, with 
 the exception of those neighbouring ones which tend to 
 nourish the fruit by drawing the sap to it, and of those 
 that have been fixed on for the purpose of succeeding 
 the whole branch. Should all the blossoms of a branch 
 be sterile, prune immediatly down to one or two buds. 
 
 250. Nailing is also an essential part of training. I^ 
 is performed after the prunings both of winter and sum- 
 mer, only that in the latter, it is not done 'till the shoots 
 are strong enough to bear the constraint without danger 
 of breaking. It may be well deferred, especially in old 
 trees, 'till the month of July, or even August } or better 
 still never to do it 'till the trees are found to require it. 
 The object is to keep the branches in their proper and as- 
 signed position, and it is done (when there is no trellis 
 against the wall) by means of shreds, and nails driven 
 into the wall, by which the branches are supported. 
 When there is a trellis, you tie with matting. To nail 
 well, you must bend the shoots and branches without 
 effort, without making sharp angles, and yet make them 
 stretch to their utmost in the form of a wide V. So 
 manage it that each branch and its shoots shall assume 
 the form of the tree j so that every part of the tree be 
 furnished, the middle, the sides, and the upper and lower 
 
VI. TBAININO AND PftUKlNG. 
 
 parts J and so that all the ramifications of the tree be 
 spaced according to their size, without confusion or en-r 
 tanglementj and that the eye may follow them with dis- 
 tinctness. 
 
 251. Before I conclude my instructions relative to the 
 pruning of the peach against the wall, let me speak of 
 an operation which is not probably of modern invention, 
 and which is appHcable to all fruit trees : it is called the 
 annulary incision, or operation of ringing, which is the 
 cutting out of a narrowish strip of bark all round 
 the collar of a tree, or round one of its branches 
 only. It may be done with any sharp instrument. 
 The annulary incision is performed a few days before 
 the blossoming of a fruit tree, and, by retarding the 
 flow of sap, causes it to tend to fruit j but fine fruit 
 obtained in this manner weakens the tree or the 
 branch on which it is borne ; and according as the plant 
 is more or less strong and the operation is renewed more 
 or less often, it is sure to perish. This operation may 
 be performed on plants or parts of plants of which the 
 too vigorous sap thwarts the plans of the gardener in the 
 training of his trees -, but let him consider it only as a^ 
 remedy against superabounding sap, and let him be cau- 
 tious in the use of it even then. 
 
 252. Having now done with the wall-tree training and- 
 pruning, with the exception of what is to be said as pe- 
 culiarly applicable to each sort of tree, the rules for prun- 
 ing and training which differ from those for the peach, 
 and which additional observations are, as I before ob- 
 served, id come under the names of the different trees 
 respectively, I shall proceed to speak of the mode of 
 
PtttJlTS. CUAF. 
 
 managing those fruit*trees which are not placed against 
 a wall. There are divers modes of training, the 'pyramid, 
 the goblet, the bush, the half-standard, the arching ; and, 
 which is the great method of all, espalier, after which 
 will come the instructions for rearing of standards 
 for the orchard. I shall give my reasons for preferring 
 the old-fashioned espalier to every other species of 
 training of trees not against a wall, and also ray reasons 
 for wholly excluding all standards from the garden. I 
 think all the other methods, except the espalier, of train- 
 ing fruit-trees (for a garden) very bad : I have never 
 seen them attended with success, to say nothing of 
 the irregularity of their appearance, and the various in- 
 conveniences which attend them. Nevertheless, I will 
 mention them here one by one, that the reader may, 
 if he chuse, make use of them. 
 
 253. Pyramid form. Some think that the distaff and 
 pyramid forms are different ones, and that the former re- 
 quires less pains than the latter. No doubt this error 
 arises from their having taken for the former some neg- 
 lected and ill trained trees, whilst they have seen trees of 
 the pyramid form well trained by a skilful hand. Be 
 that, however as it may, the first year prune the graft at 
 5 or 6 inches from the bottom, saving 3 or 4 eyes to 
 form lateral branches and to carry up the stem j but 
 these first lateral branches are most essential, for they 
 will furnish the requisite abundance of wood below, 
 which, when the tree has obtained a certain height, can- 
 not be obtained, and yet which is absolutely necessary to 
 the beauty as well as utility of the pyramid. Suffer no \ 
 other shoots this year than from the 3 or 4 buds men- 
 Itioned above. Stop the upright stem every year when 
 
Vl. TRAINING AND PRUNING. 
 
 it has shot to the length of 12 or IS inches, and this i;^ill 
 force it to send out every year a set of lateral shoots, 
 and of these you make your election of 3 or 4 to save. 
 At the pruning time, shorten the lateral branches more 
 or less according to the vigour of the tree and the just 
 distribution of sap amongst all the branches. If you 
 wish to raise a branch, prune at an upper bud ^ and at a 
 low^er bud to lower a branch. If you wish to cause a 
 branch to tend to the right or the left, chuse a bud situ- 
 ated on the right or left side to prune at. In either case 
 to prevent the branch going straight, you have nothing 
 to do but prune a little way above a bud. Thus the 
 training continues ; and, as the lowermost branches are 
 always a year older than the upper, this gradation should 
 be preserved in the length of the branches, which of 
 course, must diminish by stages all the way up, from the 
 base to the summit. This sort of training conduces at 
 Once to the fruitfulness and to the duration of the tree. 
 
 ?54. The goblet or cup form is very little other 
 than an espalier, but of which you bring the extre- 
 mities of the two sides round in a circle to meet 
 each other, and to form a large vase or goblet open 
 at the top and tapering down to an inverted cone at 
 bottom. To procure this, prune the young tree so as to 
 have 4 or .5 branches as near to one another as possible 
 at the top of the stem. Manage these principal branches 
 as you do those of the wall-tree ; but rub or cut off all 
 shoots or buds that are putting forth towards the inside 
 of the goblet, as these would soon fill it and destroy the 
 form. The principal branches are brought into form by 
 means of one or two hoops, as occasion requires. 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 255. Bush training is rarely exercised excepting in 
 the case of dwarf apple trees, of which the gardeners 
 will sometimes have a square. It is, suffering the tree to 
 take its own natural form, and pruning only for the pur- 
 pose of keeping up an equal quantity of wood and bear- 
 ing branches. 
 
 256. Half- STANDARDS. — If the plant have been 
 grafted where it is to stand, nothing can be done the first 
 year ; but if it be a young transplanted tree, shorten the 
 graft down to 2 or 3 buds. The next year chuse the 
 strongest bud to lengthen the stem, and pinch the others 
 Orff at about 6 inches length to favour the one you have 
 saved, and which is to form the trunk of the tree. If, 
 out of this, there come lateral shoots, prune them short, 
 in little stumps, that is, at one or two buds, and let them 
 remain 'till the autumnal pruning, when you must cut 
 these off close to the stem as well as those that you 
 pinched off to favour the first saved shoot. And thus 
 you continue heightening the tree more and more every 
 year, 'till it shall have reached the height you wish, whe- 
 ther of standard or half-standard. If, before it get to 
 the height you desire, it should fork, pinch off the weakest 
 of the two shoots as soon as it is 3 or 4 inches long, and 
 cut it clean out at the winter pruning succeeding j or if 
 it should become distorted, or should break off by some 
 accident, either pinch off, or cut, immediately below the 
 damaged part, and in the winter pruning, shorten it 
 down to the strongest bud below that you have, one that 
 you have been favouring for the purpose since you per- 
 ceived the mischief above, and that will supply you with 
 a fresh undamaged stem. If the tree arrive at the height 
 
VI. TRAINING AND PRUNING. 
 
 you desire in the summer, pinch it off a little above 
 that point, and cut down to the exact height you wish 
 it in your first succeeding winter pruning j and then cut 
 ofif again all the other shoots of the summer that you 
 have before only pinched off. Then in the following 
 spring, having now got the trunk of your tree, watch 
 narrowly the shoots that the last year's wood will send 
 out, and chuse from among them the three or four most 
 vigorous and most equally placed of them for principal 
 branches, and pinch off all the rest as before directed. 
 When these branches send out their shoots, pinch off 
 those that come too close to one another, and prune 
 them close in winter. In the autumn, prune the princi- 
 pal branches and their shoots that are designed to be se- 
 condary branches, precisely as we have directed with 
 regard to wall-trees above ; and when you have done so 
 two or three years, you may let the tree alone to nature, 
 only cutting out the dead branches as they occur. A tree 
 well formed, and in good ground well cultivated, will last 
 more than a century. Sometimes a vigorous branch will 
 do harm to more fruitful ones, and yet you may, for 
 sound reasons, wish to preserve it. In such a case, 
 slacken its vigour by pruning it very long, or even by 
 ringing it. ' 
 
 257» Arching is done by bending in the form of a 
 half-hoop, more or less open, the branches, and in this 
 way you bring them pointing towards the earth. This 
 situation retards the circulation of the sap, and forces it 
 to betake itself to leaf buds and to transform them into 
 "wood-buds. 
 
FRL'iTS. Chap 
 
 258. Espalier. This is the form which, in my opinion 
 is the only one suited for the open ground of a garden, 
 The fanciful affair of arching for vines or any other tree 
 is more a matter of pleasure-garden than of kitchen 
 garden : the other forms are intended to promote bear- 
 ing and they are all vastly inferior to the espalier in 
 this respect. Apricots obtained in any way except 
 against a wall or a house are seldom good for much j 
 there are a few of the sorts which will bear in other si- 
 tuations J but the fruit is good for very little. Apples, 
 pears, plums, cherries, and quinces and medlars, all do ex- 
 ceedingly well as espaliers ; and it is notorious, that the 
 fruit is always larger, and of finer flavour when the tree 
 is trained in this form than when the limbs are sufiFered 
 to go in an upright direction. There are several sorts 
 of pears which will be very fine on espaliers on the very 
 same spot of ground where they will scarcely come to 
 Bnything like perfection on a standard tree or upon any 
 tree the limbs of which are suffered to go upright. 
 
 ^59. Espaliers are managed in the following manner : 
 Suppose it to be an apple-tree which has been grafted in 
 the manner before directed, and which has a good strong 
 shoot coming up from the graft. Take the tree up, and 
 plant it in the manner directed under the head of Plant- 
 ing in this Chapter. Whether planted in the fall or in 
 the spring, let the tree stand in the spring till the buds 
 begin to break, then cut the shoot down to within three 
 buds of the bottom. Cut sloping and let the cut end 
 pretty near to the point where the top bud of the three is 
 coming out. These three buds will send forth three 
 ehoots, and all the three will take an upright direction. 
 
VL TRAINING AND PRUXING. 
 
 About the middle of July, take the two bottom shoots. 
 One of which will be on one side of the stem or trunk, as 
 it must now be called, and the other on the other side, 
 place a couple of little stakes to each of these shoots, 
 and tie the shoots down to the stakes so that they may 
 lie in a horizontal direction, suffering the top shoot to go 
 on ; but, about the latter end of July, take the top off 
 from that shoot. Thus, when winter comes, you will 
 have one upright shoot and two horizontal ones. In the 
 spring, cut off the top shoot again, leaving five buds. 
 Two of which you will cut out in order to prevent them 
 from sending out shoots. You will again have two side- 
 shoots, and the top shoot will again be going on upright. 
 You must now have longer stakes in order to give these side 
 shoots a horizontal direction j but, the stakes that serve for 
 the new shoots will serve also for those of the last year j 
 but then, as the shoots of the last year will be going on, 
 there must be additional stakes to tie them to. The next 
 year you proceed in the same manner j and, if you do the 
 work carefully you will finally have these lateral shoots 
 in perfectly regular order, and they should be at about 
 from seven to nine inches asunder, the lowest within a 
 few inches of the ground, and the highest just according 
 to your fancy ; but it is not desirable to carry the tree to 
 a height beyond that of about five or six feet. As these 
 side-shoots or limbs increase in size and length, they will 
 need loftier and stouter stakes j and this, like the growing 
 of peas in a neat manner, and to produce fruit most 
 abundant in quantity and most excellent in quality j this 
 staking, as in the case of peas, has been the great 
 obstacle to the cultivation of espaliers. A stake of any 
 ordinary wood will last not above two years, and espe- 
 
 li 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 daily in garden ground : it rots off at the point where 
 it begins to touch the earth, and there is an everlasting 
 trouble and expense. To have espaliers, therefore, and 
 to have them in neat order, the old fashion was to have 
 stakes of spine-oak, an inch one way, and two inches the 
 other ; such stakes would last ten or fifteen years^ ac- 
 cording to the wetness or dryness of the land. The best 
 stakes would be the trunks of young locust trees, planted 
 within two feet of each other, and suffered to grow to 
 the height of about twelve or fourteen feet. They 
 would do this, in good ground, in the course of four or five 
 years. Cut down in winter, and the branches trimmed oflf 
 close, they would make espalier stakes to last for a 
 good long life-time. AVhile the limbs of espaliers are 
 small, they should be fastened to the stakes by good fresh 
 matting, or bass, as it is called, to be occasionally re- 
 newed : when the limbs get stout, I have seen brass wire 
 used J though, perhaps, the matting might still be suf- 
 ficient ; for, when the limb has once got to be an inch or 
 two through, it wants little supporting except merely 
 towards its point, or when heavily laden with fruit. 
 Espaliers are to be planted in rows if there be a consi- 
 derable number of them in a garden -, and they should 
 not stand nearer, if intended to be permanent trees, than 
 at twenty feet from each other. That they should be 
 planted in straight line is obvious enough. The best 
 situation for them is along by the sides of walks and not 
 more than about three feet distant from the edge of the 
 walk. Their symmetry is very beautiful ; and, what can 
 be more beautiful than an avenue of fruit-trees in bloom, 
 and trained in form so regular and neat? The crops they 
 bear are prodigious compared with those standard trees 
 
 i 
 
VI. TRAINING AND PRUNING; 
 
 upon the same spot. I remember a gentleman who had 
 an espalier apple-tree of about twenty feet in length, and 
 two very large standard trees of the same sort of fruit, in 
 the same garden and very near to the same spot. All 
 the three trees were well laden with fruit : I stood looking 
 at them for some time, making an estimate of the crop j 
 and I came to the conclusion that the espalier had more 
 fruit than both the great standards put together, while 
 its fruit was of double the size, or nearly so. I asked 
 him why he did not chop down those two great trees that 
 shaded and spoiled so much of his garden, and plant a 
 couple of espaliers. He had the new-fashioned taste of 
 despising the espaliers, and talked of grubbing this par- 
 ticular one up. In remonstrating with him, I said that 
 the espalier had a greater quantity of fruit upon it then 
 than both the other trees. This appeared to him to be so 
 monstrous, that he ofiFered to bet me a hundred to one, or 
 more, against my opinion. I declined the bet j but he 
 promised, that, when he gathered the fruit, which was to 
 be done in a few days, he would have it]measured and give 
 me an account of the result, which, to his utter astonish- 
 ment, he found to be that the espalier contained half a 
 bushel more than both the other trees put together. The 
 eye always deceives itself in comparing things irregularly 
 placed with things placed with regularity. So much, 
 then, for the training of espaliers. The pruning ; that is 
 to say, the pruning of the limbs, is as follows. Apples, 
 and, indeed, all the other trees which I have spoken of to 
 be planted for espaliers, bear upon spurs, some shorter, 
 and some longer j not like peach-trees which have their 
 fruit upon shoots of the last year. Sometimes, indeed, 
 apples^ and these other trees, will bear upon the last 
 
year's wood, but generally they bear upon spurs, which 
 come out of the sides of the limb itself until it gets to 
 be very large, and afterwards come out of the lower buds 
 of little side-shoots that have been cut offj and these 
 §purs last for a great many years. When you gather an 
 apple in the fall, you will, if the tree be in vigour, see a 
 blossom-bud, ready, coming out of the same spur, to 
 bear the next year j and I ought to observe here, that 
 the greatest possible care should be taken (as it never 
 is) not to pull off the spur when you pull off the apple. 
 Gentlemen who are curious in these things actually cut 
 off cherries with a scissors, except the morellos, and one 
 or two other sorts, which bear pretty generally on the 
 last year's wood, to avoid the danger of pulling off the 
 spurs. It being the fact, that the trees bear upon spurs, 
 there needs no new supply of limbs or of shoots ; and, 
 therefore, the little side-shoots that come out of the 
 limbs ought to be cut clean out about the latter end of 
 July, unless there be a deficiency of spurs upon the 
 limb ; and, in that case, the little side-shoots should be 
 cut off, leaving one bud, or, perhaps, two, if the joints 
 be short, and these will frequently send out spurs. Let 
 us now go back to the second year after planting the 
 tree, when we had got two lateral shoots running 
 iiorizontally, and one upright shoot. Each of these 
 lateral shoots will send out two side-shoots near their 
 point, and one at their point, to go straight forward : 
 that one is to be suffered to go on, but the others must 
 be shortened to one bud : the same thing will happen 
 next year, when the same operation is to be performed, 
 and at the same season : thus, at last, you have a limb 
 ten feet long, furnished with spurs from one end to the 
 
VI. TRAINING AND PRUNING. 
 
 Other. When your room will suffer you to carry the 
 liiiib no further, you cut oflf the pomt. Let any one 
 judge, then, what a saving of room here is j how much 
 sun and air, and how regularly admitted, compared with 
 what is to be expected from the half-standard or any 
 other form. How are you to prune in this careful and 
 yet easy manner a tree of irregular shape ? My real 
 opinion is, that, an acre of ground well stocked with 
 espaliers, the rows at ten feet apart, and the plants at 
 twenty-feet apart in the row, would produce, on an 
 average of years, three times the weight of fruit to be 
 obtained from trees in any other form j besides which, 
 the ground between the rows might, a third part of it, at 
 least, produce cabbages, cauliflowers, broccoli, crops of 
 any sort that did not mount too high. The great fault in 
 orchards is, a want of pruning j and, indeed, such an 
 operation on standard trees is next to impossible. People 
 pretend to object to the formality of the espalier. Just as 
 if formality were an objection in a kitchen-garden where 
 all 13 straight lines, and must be straight lines ! The 
 little border between the espalier trees and the walk 
 should not be crowded with plants of any kind, and 
 should have no plants at all that grow to more than six 
 or seven inches high. On the other side of the espaliers 
 nothing should grow within about four feet 3 but, how 
 small, still, is the space of ground \vhich even a large 
 espalier would occupy ! Very little more than half a rod, 
 while you can have no tree in any other shape that will 
 not occupy and render useless five times the quantity of 
 ground to produce the same quantity of fruit j and, if 
 I were to say ten times, 1 should be much nearer the 
 mark. Then, there is the inconvenieiice of fruit-trees in 
 
 I 
 
FRUITS. ClTAP. 
 
 ttll the other forms. They must stand at a considerable 
 distance from , the walk, or they extend their branches 
 over it. It is a circle of ground that they occupy or 
 shade j and the plat in which they stand can only be 
 partially cultivated for other things. If they mount 
 above the reach of the hand, to get at the fruit is 
 a business of great trouble ; and, after all, there can 
 be no regular and true pruning j no minute inspec- 
 tion : no picking off of caterpillars with exactness : no 
 detection and destruction of other insects ; and, in the 
 case of cherries, what a difficult business it must always 
 be effectually to protect the fruit against birds on any 
 other tree except wall or espalier ! I have seen the 
 thing attempted some hundreds of times, and never saw 
 it effected in my life. Monstrous must be the expense 
 and trouble to keep the net extended all round and held 
 clear off the tree at top, where the finest cherries always 
 are. In short, the net lays upon the top of the tree 5 
 birds come and eat the fine cherries there, and leave you 
 the sour ones beneath. An espalier, on the contrary, is, 
 with the aid of a few long stakes, and a good net, pro- 
 tected as completely as if it were within a hand-glass. 
 Espaliers were always the great reliance of our gardens 
 until within the last sixty or seventy years. An objection 
 is made to their formality, their stiffness of appearance ! 
 Alas ! the objection is to what is deemed the trouble, or 
 labour; and. Swift observes, that labour is pain, and 
 that, in all his family, from his great grandmother to 
 hijuself, nobody liked pain. This, however, is a great 
 error 3 for, as in an infinite number of cases, some of 
 which occur to every man almost every day of his life. 
 
VU* TRAINHIO AND PRUNING. 
 
 pains-taking, at the first, produces ease and leisure in 
 the sequel. • 
 
 260. STANDARD TREES.— After what I have said, 
 I do most anxiously hope, that, if any gentleman ever 
 should make a garden after the plan that I am recom- 
 mending, he never will suffer it to be disfigured by the 
 folly of a standard-tree, which, the more vigorous its 
 growth, the more mischievous that growth to the garden. 
 But, an orchard is another thing j and especially if that 
 orchard be to be a pasture as well as an orchard. In 
 this case, it is necessary to keep the branches of the trees 
 out of the reach of cattle j and they must have a clear 
 trunk to a considerable height. The usual way of going 
 to work is this : to purchase trees with a clear trunk of 
 the length which is desired : to plant the trees at suitable 
 distances, and to shorten the shoots of their heads at the 
 time of planting. A dreadful amputation of roots must 
 take place. It is impossible that there should be a due 
 supply of sap for the first summer at least j the bark 
 becomes clung to the wood. The shoots that come out 
 the first summer are poor feeble twigs ; the trees, if un-» 
 propped, are blown nearly out of the ground before the 
 summer is overj therefore, a propping takes place j 
 sometimes with one stake, hay-bands and cord ; some- 
 times with two : there must be three, to keep the tree 
 upright, so that here is a tripod with a stump coming up 
 ill the middle. The tree gets something in the head, 
 and, at least, a parcel of leaves, the wind works the 
 trunk about in spite of the bandages, and, nine times out 
 of ten, a breaking of the bark and the foundation of a 
 canker .takes place. In short, the tree must be sup- 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 ported by something like carpentering work ; or it is 
 sure to lean on one side 3 and every reader must know 
 that a rarer sight is hardly to be seen in England than an 
 apple-tree with an upright stem. Indeed, more than one 
 half of such trees totally fail, and those that do not, are 
 so crippled in their roots that they become poor weakly 
 things, and, if not unproductive altogether, bear very 
 meari fruit. The true way to have a fine orchard would 
 be, to plant the trees when young, having been previously 
 moved, as directed under the head of Planting in this 
 Chapter. After planting, the trees should be cut down 
 just before the buds begin to burst, to one bud, or two, 
 at most, for fear of accidents. If to two buds, only one 
 should be suffered to send up its shoot. All things hav- 
 ing been done rightly, this shoot would be strong, and 
 fed by a root which would have fairly started in the pro- 
 gress with itself. To insure stoutness of trunk, take 
 care that no side -shoots be suffered to remain for any 
 length of time, even the first summer. The second 
 spring after planting, cut the new shoot down to within 
 three buds of its bottom : it will send out three shoots, 
 j-ub off the two lower ones, and suffer the top one to go 
 on ; and this shoot will now, in good ground, attain the 
 height of a man's head. The next spring, shorten down to 
 four or five or six shoots, according to the strength of the 
 trunk, and during the summer, take off the side shoots ; 
 and you will have in the fall, a trunk seven or eight feet 
 high. That is the tree. Nature will teach it, after that, 
 how to form its head ; and your business will be to keep 
 the inside of the head clear by cutting off the shoots 
 that there cross or interfere with each other. Apple-trees, 
 and the same may be said of all other fruit-trees, woul^ 
 
VI. TRAINING AND PRtJNINO. 
 
 lave as straight trunks as the oaks in the weald of 
 Surrey, if this method of planting orchards were pur- 
 sued. But it will be objected, how are these trees to 
 be protected from cattle during their growth > Why, if 
 you must liave the pasture, and still wish to have 
 straight-trunked, wide-spreading, healthy and durable 
 trees, you must surround each of them with an effectual 
 fence to prevent the possibility of cattle reaching either 
 trunk or branches. It is a great object to have a good 
 orchard, or it is not : if it be, then this expense is not a 
 thing to be thought of 5 and, if it be not, why plant 
 any trees at all ? The truth is, however, that, if you 
 reckon the expense of great trees, the stakes and the 
 bandages, the loss of many of the trees, and the bushes 
 or other miserable protections, which, after all, you re- 
 sort to, and are compelled to resort to to keep the sheep 
 from barking the trunks, or the cows from rubbing them 
 to pieces -, and particularly if you reckon the loss that 
 you sustain in the tardy arrival of the crop j if you reckon 
 these expenses and these losses, they very far exceed 
 in amount the expenses of the way that I recommend. 
 The usual practice in America very much resembles 
 the practice here, and is attended with mucti about the 
 same consequences. Those who do the thing well there, 
 break up the pasture, and cultivate grain of different 
 sorts, or Indian corn, until the trees have attained a size 
 to set all cattle at defiance. The finest orchard that I 
 ever saw belonged to Mr. Platt in the township of North 
 Hempstead in Long Island. The rows of trees were at 
 about thirty feet apart, and the trees at about 
 twenty-five feet apart in the *row, the ireeb of one 
 row placed opposite the intervals of the other row. This 
 
 N 
 
,amv^ FRUITS. Chap.. 
 
 gave him about six hundred trees upon ten acres of 
 land. When I saw the trees, they had attained pretty 
 nearly their full size, and had come to within a few feet 
 of causing the extreme branches of one tree to touch 
 those of another. It is the fashion in that country to 
 shake down the apples that are intended for cider, and 
 to gather those only that are intended for eating. As 
 soon as the apples are shaken down, they are put up into 
 heaps in the form of haycocks, in which state they lie 
 till they are removed to be made into cider ; and, I re- 
 member seeing them in this state in Mr. Platt's orchard, 
 the cocks being as thick upon the ground as those of a 
 middling crop of hay. This gentleman, from whose 
 orchard came the first cuttings that I received from 
 America, had a very pretty nursery of his own, and solely 
 for his own use. In that he propagated all his fruit-trees, 
 and he planted them out very small in his orchards, 
 taking care, when he sowed the orchards with grain, not 
 to suffer the wheat or the rye or the oats to stand too 
 close to the young trees. After the trees get to be stout, 
 and able to resist cattle, the land is laid down for grass, 
 and in so hot a country, the shade of the trees is no 
 injury to the grass ; but appears to be the contrary j for 
 the cattle there will feed under the shade of trees, when 
 they will not feed elsewhere. The after-pruning of 
 orchard-trees consists in constantly taking off all shoots 
 that come out any where in the middle of the tree, and 
 in carefully cutting away every bit of dead wood, whether 
 occasioned by blight, by wind, or by any other cause. As 
 to the cultivation of orchards, when the trees begin to give 
 out bearing, or to bear poor or small fruit, they, in Ame- 
 rica, first put manure to a good distance round the tree j 
 
 
VI. LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 buty they are soon after that compelled to plough up the 
 whole of the land, to manure it, and to take a crop or 
 two of grain, most frequently buck wheat, ploughing 
 always as deep as they can : after this, they lay the land 
 down with grass again j and thus they keep up the 
 bearing of their orchards. Mr. Platt had a curious 
 mode of making strong cider : in the month of January 
 or February, he placed a number of hogsheads of cider 
 upon stands out of doors. The frost turned to ice the 
 upper part of the contents of the hogshead, and a tap 
 drew off from the bottom the part which was not 
 frozen. This was the spirituous part j and was as strong 
 as the very strongest of beer that can be made. The 
 frost had no power over this part j but the lighter part 
 which was at the top, it froze into ice. This, when 
 thawed, was weak cider. This method of getting strong 
 cider would not do in a country like this, where the 
 frosts are never sufficiently severe. As to the sorts of 
 apples and of other fruit-trees, they will be spoken of 
 under the respective heads in the Alphabetical List. 
 
 ALPHABETICAL LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 ^61. APPLE.— Apples are usually grafted on crab- 
 stocks J but when you do not want the trees to grow so 
 very tall and large, it is better to raise the stocks from 
 apple^pips j because they certainly come into bearing 
 sooner. Some graft apples upon stocks raised from 
 
 N 2 
 
FRUITS. Chap, 
 
 layers > and these certainly bring trees to bear quicker. 
 The layers being raised in the manner before-mentioned, 
 from the limbs and shoots of apple-trees. See the word 
 layer in the Index. Every thing having before been said i 
 relative to the propagating, the planting, the training, 
 and the pruning of apple-trees, there remains to be 
 spoken of here nothing but the different sorts. To give 
 an opinion as to the best sorts would perhaps be useless, 
 where the sorts are so numerous, and when tastes are 8o 
 different. I shall, therefore, with regard to eating 
 apples, simply give from Mr. Aiton's Hortus Kewensis, a 
 list of the apples grown in the King's gardens : I shall then 
 give the names of some of the American apples of the 
 eating kind -, after which I shall make an observation or 
 two upon cider apples. Those of the king's gardens are 
 as follows : Borstqff Apple, Golden Harvey y Golden Reiinety 
 Golden Russet, Juneting, Margill, Common Nonpareil, 
 Scarlet Nonpareil, Nonsuch, Brookes' Pippin, Cockle Pippin, 
 Court of fVick Pippin, Downton Pippin, Fearns Pippin, 
 Frankland's Pippin, Golden Pippin, Padley*s Pippin, Bed 
 Jngestrie Pippin, Ribston Pippin, Robinsons Pippin, Renald't 
 Pmpin, Summer Pippin, Spice Pippin, Pomme d'Api, Pomme 
 Notre, Pomme Grise, Quarenden, Sack -and- Sugar, Syke 
 house, Bigg^s Nonsuch, Summer Codlin, Autumn Codlin, 
 Spring Codlin, Costard, French Crab, French Minchin, 
 Hawthorn dean, Kirkes Scarlet Admirable, Lemon Pippin, 
 Minier's Dumpling, Norfolk Beaujin, Autumn Pearmain, 
 Scarlet Pearmain, Winter Pearmain. On the American 
 apples I can offer some opinion. The earliest is JVoolley's 
 Summer Pearmain ; and I call it WooUey's, because Mr. 
 WooLLEV of North Hempstead introduced me to th« 
 knowledge of it and gave me some of the fruit in the 
 
 j 
 
VI, LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 year 1817. It is a long apple, shaped somewhat like the ' 
 old English pearmain, beautifully striped red and white, 
 and ripe in the month of August. I have very few of 
 these. The apple whicU succeeds this is the Fall Pipjnn, 
 and it continues to be good to eat until the middle of 
 November. Then comes the Greening, which continues 
 to be very good to eat until February ; and then comes 
 the Newtown Pippin, which, if properly preserved, is very 
 good to eat until the month of June. For my own part, 
 I should wish for no sorts but these, except I added 
 Conklins Pie Apple, the reputation of which is very great. 
 There is the Doctor Apple of exceeding beauty, and very 
 good until late in November 3 but, indeed, after January 
 comes, there is no apple wanted either for eating raw or 
 cooking, but the Newtown Pippin, which, to the qualities 
 of fine relish an^ long keeping, adds the other great 
 quality of being a surprisingly great bearer. It hardly ever 
 totally fails, even when other trees do j and it generally 
 has a large crop. I have a tree in my garden at Ken- 
 sington, which was covered with fruit in 1826. It stood 
 against a wall, and I was afraid that it would be killed 
 by a foul drain oozing through the wall from the out- 
 premises of one of my neighbours : I moved it, therefore, 
 in the month of April, 1827, to another part of the gar- 
 den, and, large as it was, it is now (May, 1828) well-loaded 
 with fruit. I never saw any thing more beautiful than the 
 tree now is, whether in shoot, leaf, or fruit. The cut- 
 tings, which came from Mr. Platt at North Hempstead, 
 were put upon the several little limbs of an old dwarf 
 fitandard-tree j but the whole now appears as if it had 
 been all from a young original stock. There are nume- 
 ipus sorts of excellent American apples j but I do not 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 think it necessary to speak of any others. Something, 
 however, may be said about apples for cooking. There 
 are our own codlings^ which come earliest : Conklins pie- 
 apple I have mentioned, the Russettings are very fine for 
 this purpose, and they keep a long while : the Spitzen- 
 berg Pippin is a fine large apple for this purpose, keeps 
 through the greater part of the winter, and bears 
 surprizingly. In Herefordshire the apples most highly 
 esteemed for this purpose are the Quining, or Queening, 
 and the Boovey red-streak, they are both very fine apples, 
 but particularly the former. There are some excellent 
 sorts in Devonshire j but, as to sorts, people will gene- 
 rally be directed by their taste, or by the fashion of the 
 neighbourhood. With regard to cider apples, it would 
 be useless to speak of sorts, and rather beside my sub- 
 ject, seeing that I am treating of things not to make 
 liquor of, but to be used for the table. To preserve 
 apples throughout the winter is a thing of great con- 
 sequence. First, the sort is to be attended to j for an 
 apple that is not of a keeping nature will not keep. If 
 the quantity be small," I have found that wrapping each 
 apple in a piece of paper and packing in a chest is the 
 best way. In all cases, they should be carefully hand- 
 gathered, laid in the basket which you use in the gather- 
 ing, and not tossed into it ; for, the smallest bruise leads 
 with certainty to rottenness. They should be quite ripe 
 before they be gathered ; and yet, when quite ripe, they 
 fall with the least shake of the limb. Here is one of the 
 great advantages of espaliers, the limbs of which cannot 
 be shaken with the wind ; while, as every one knows, 
 much about half the crop is shaken down by the wind 
 from the greater part of standard-trees long before the 
 
Vjfi^,'^^ LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 apples are ripe. When apples are gathered, they should 
 be laid upon cloths or mats in the sun, or in some dry 
 airy place, until they become perfectly dry in every part 
 of them. If the quantity be large, they ought to be laid 
 upon a floor or upon broad fruit-shelves j but not one 
 upon the other. Clean straw laid under them is very 
 good J but I have found a single new mat to be better : 
 they should be looked over frequently to see if they begin 
 to rot, and such as do begin ought to be immediately 
 taken away. When there is frost, all that you have to do 
 is, to keep the apples in a state of total darkness until 
 some days after a complete thaw has come. In America 
 they are frequently frozen as hard as stones : if they thaw 
 in the light j they rot j but if they thaw in darkness, they 
 not only do not rot, but lose very little of their original 
 flavour. This may be new to the English reader j but 
 he may depend upon it that the statement is correct. 
 
 26^. APRICOT.— With regard to the propagation, 
 the planting, and the training of the tree, the instructions 
 have already been given under the head of Training and 
 Pruning. The pruning dififers from the peach in that the 
 apricot generally bears upon spurs, some of which are 
 formed by nature, and others may be formed in the man- 
 ner directed in the case of the espalier apple. The 
 apricot does not require so much attention as the peach 
 and the nectarine in the providing of new wood ; because 
 those trees bear only upon the last year's wood ) but, 
 occasionally new shoots ought to be laid in to supply the 
 place of branches taken ofiF by the blast, which very fre- 
 quently takes off a whole branch, and even a whole limb, 
 without any apparent cause. The apricqt tree . is not 
 
f 
 
 FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 subject to mildew, and to the various blights to which 
 the peach and other fruit-trees are subject 5 but it is sub- 
 ject to this blast, of which 1 have never heard a reason- 
 able cause assigned. The proper situation for the apricot- 
 tree is a wall facing the east or the west. Facing the 
 south is as good, perhaps, but that situation is wanted 
 for the peaches, the nectarines and the vines. The 
 apricot is a prodigious bearer, and of life equal to that of 
 an oak. It will bear, and bear prodigiously, too, after 
 the trunk is perfectly hollow, and there is nothing left of 
 it but the mere shell. It is well-known that the young 
 fruit, when of the size of a half-grown walnut, is used 
 for the making of tarts, and for other purposes ; and, 
 though, in my opinion, inferior to green gooseberries, is 
 more highly esteemed, because it is more rare. Whether 
 part of the fruit be gathered for this purpose or not, 
 courage should not be wanting to thin the fruit so as not 
 to leave it at aearer than six inches at the most from 
 each other upon the tree. A tree eight feet high, and 
 spreading seven feet from each side of the trunk, will 
 cover a space of a hundred and twelve square feet : the 
 fruit, at six inches apart, would be four apricots to a 
 foot, that is to say, four hundred and forty-eight apricots 
 upon the tree, or pretty nearly thirty-eight dozen. It is 
 not to be supposed, however, that the fruit would be dis- 
 tributed equally over every part of the tree 5 but, sup- 
 pose you have half the number, what prodigious quan- 
 tities must come from either of the end walls of the 
 garden ! There is no greater error than that of permit- 
 ting trees to bear too great a quantity of fruit. Gene- 
 rally speaking, you have the same weight in half 
 the number that vou have in the whole number if too 
 
VI, LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 numerously left : then, you prevent the tree from bear- 
 ing the next year j for it has not strength to provide for 
 blossoms, while it is strained to its utmost in the bearing 
 of fruit. This being a matter of so much importance, 
 and applicable to all sorts of fruit-trees, I beg the reader 
 to observe how fully this opinion is supported by the two 
 instances which I am about to cite. Under the head 
 Cucumber, I have observed (and the fact is notorious to 
 all gardeners), that if you leave one fruit to stand for 
 seed, the plant instantly ceases to bear : it is the same 
 with kidney-beans. " Gather cucumbers and have cu- 
 cumbers, gather kidney-beans and have kidney-beans," 
 are maxims as old as the hills. These are annual plants ; 
 and, therefore, the consequences of causing them to 
 make the grand exertion of ripening their fruit are appa- 
 rent the same year. As to fruit-trees, it is notorious 
 that, in this country, orchard trees seldom bear great 
 crops two years running ; but here the matter is irregu- 
 lar owing to the blights^ and, therefore, the effect of 
 over-bearing is a fact not so well established as it is in 
 America where there are no blights. In that country, 
 the thing is so well known, that nothing is more common 
 than for a man, going into one part of the country from 
 another, to ask whether that is the bearing year in that 
 neighbourhood j and it never yet was known that two 
 bearing years succeeded each other with regard to the 
 same tree. Some sorts of apples (and the Fall Pippin is 
 one of them) bear upon some limbs of the tree one year, 
 and upon other limbs of the tree another year j and you 
 will frequently see a limb or two loaded with fruit while 
 not an apple is to be seen on any other part of the tree. 
 This doctrine, therefore, iiake to be firmly established. 
 
 N 5 t 
 
FRUiT«. Chap. 
 
 With regard to apples and fruit of about the same value; 
 the consequence is not very great 3 but, in the case of 
 wall-fruit, you want a crop every year ; and, therefore, 
 you must take away one year that which would prevent 
 bearing the next. Cherries may, perhaps, be an excep- 
 tion here j because they take care to make the super-: 
 abundant fruit drop off at a very early age ; but, then, 
 there is another consideration with regard to which even 
 cherries form no exception ; and that is, that, if the fruit 
 be too numerous, it is smaller than it ought to, be. 
 Perhaps in hardly any case, the greater number produces 
 any thing like a proportionate weight to the smaller 
 number : and, as to the quality, the superiority of the 
 small number is great indeed. The apricot should not 
 be gathered until it be almost ready to fall from the 
 tree j and, if the sort be good, it is preferred by many 
 persons to the peach. As to sorts, the following are 
 those mentioned by Mr. Aiton in the Hortus Kewensis : 
 the Blacky the Brussels, the Masculine, the Moor Park, and 
 the Royal Orange. For my part, I recommend the Moor 
 Park, and the Turkey. The former is fine, and a good 
 bearer : the latter not a good bearer, but superlatively 
 fine. Mr. Marshall recommends the Breda, to ripen in 
 September. The Masculine, the Brussels, and the Black, 
 are cultivated only because they come early : they are in 
 my opinion very poor fruit : they might be planted as 
 espaliers in very warm situations ; but are certainly un- 
 worthy of a good wall. Besides the use of apricots as 
 fruit from the tree, they make the most delicious of all 
 preserves j and, while, in the season of their ripeness, 
 mixing them with apples in pies and tarts, make a great 
 improvement in the article. The apricot is, on all ac- 
 
VI. LIST OP FRUITS. 
 
 counts, a tree deserving of the greatest attention : it 
 usually blows in February, or March at the latest, and 
 ought to be pruned before the blossom buds begin to 
 burst. As to the protecting of the blossoms from frost, 
 I shall give general directions for that under the head of 
 Peach. 
 
 L 263. BARBERRY.— This fruit is vi^ell known. The 
 
 I tree or shrub on which it grows is raised from the seed 
 
 fti-br from suckers or layers. It needs little care ; and 
 
 should stand in the outer part of the garden, and in the 
 
 shade of the hedge ; for, the hot sun tends to prevent 
 
 the fruit from growing large. 
 
 , 264. CHERRY. — Cherries are budded or grafted upon 
 stocks raised from cherry-stones, of the manner of 
 raising which stocks I have spoken under the head of 
 Propagation. If you wish to have the cherry tree for a 
 wall or an espalier, the stocks should be raised from the 
 stbnes of the Morello, or the May-Duke. As to the 
 management of the tree in its early stages, and the 
 planting of it out, directions have been given under the 
 head of Planting. Cherry trees, except the Morello and 
 one or two more, bear upon spurs ; and great care 
 should be taken in the forming and the preserving of 
 these spurs, all the rules for doing which have been 
 mentioned under the head of espalier apple. Cherry 
 trees do exceedingly well as espaliers j and, as standards, 
 though they bear prodigiously, the crop is for the birds 
 and not for the gardener. As espaliers, they may, as I 
 have before observed, be most conveniently coyered with 
 a net. In the gathering, too, the espalier form is of 
 
. FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 great advantage : the fruit may be clipped oflf with a 
 sharp-pointed scissors, without exposing the spurs to 
 injury. As to the sons of cherries, those mentioned in 
 the Hortus Kewensis, are as follows : All Saints, Bigarreau, 
 Elton, Carnation, Crown, Kentish, May-Duke, Late Duke, 
 Morello, Ronald's Superbe, Harrisons Heart, Black Heart, 
 White Heart. The Kentish cherry, good for very little, 
 is the earliest ; the May-Duke the next j and then come 
 the others. The May-Duke is one of the finest of all the 
 cherries, and is the only one made use of in forcing. If 
 suffered to hang until it be quite ripe, it becomes nearly 
 black, and then it is better, perhaps, than any other 
 cherry. Besides these garden cherries, there is the little 
 black cherry, which are vulgarly called merries, by a cor- 
 ruption of the French word merise. This is the cherry 
 of the common people, and is too well-known to need 
 any particular description. The Bigarreaus are very 
 large and very fine ; but they require a good wall, or a 
 very warm situation as espaliers. 
 
 265. CHESNUT.— This is an inhabitant of the woods. 
 It is generally called the Spanish chesnut : those from 
 America grow to a greater height, but have smaller, 
 though sweeter, fruit. Chesnuts are raised from the 
 seed ; though to have the very fine ones that grow in 
 Brittany, the cuttings are generally got from that 
 country, and put upon chesnut stocks in England. To 
 preserve chesnuts, so as to have them to sow in the 
 spring, or to eat through the winter, you must make 
 them perfectly dry after they come out of their green 
 husk J then put them into a box or a barrel mixed with, 
 and covered over by, fine and dry sand, three gallons of 
 
VI. LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 sand to one gallon of chesnuts. If there be maggots in 
 any of the chesnuts, they will come out of the chesnuts 
 and work up through the sand to get to the air ; and thus 
 you have your chesnuts sweet and sound and fresh. To 
 know whether chesnuts will grow, toss them into water : 
 those that swim will not grow- To raise a chesnut tree 
 with a straight stem or trunk, follow precisely the direc- 
 tions given for the planting and raising of orchard trees. 
 
 266. CRANBERRY.— -This fruit is not much culti- 
 vated in England, notwithstanding its excellent qualities 
 in the making of tarts, and in the making of sauce to be 
 eaten with mutton or venison. The finest cranberries 
 come from America, where the plants creep about upoa 
 the ground in the swamps. If cultivated in England, 
 they must grow in some wet place, and be kept clear of 
 weeds : the plant creeps over the ground, like other 
 creeping plants j and I saw them bearing very well by 
 the side of a running stream at Aldbury in Surrey. Cran- 
 berries make an excellent preserve, and they may be 
 kept throughout the winter in their natural state, either 
 laid in a heap in a dry room, or put into a barrel 
 amongst water. I have imported them from America, 
 sometimes barrelled up in water, and sometimes not j 
 and always sound and good. 
 
 967. CURRANT.—This, though a low shrub, bears a 
 fruit at once popular, plentiful, and excellent in its 
 qualities j and, it is one of the great fruits of England, 
 though not the same in many other countries. It is 
 raised with the greatest facility by cuttings of the last 
 year*s wood, taken off in February, and planted in a cool 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 place after the manner directed under the head of cut- 
 tings, which word see in the Index. The cutting gets 
 roots the first summer, and the next fall or spring, it 
 may be removed to the spot where it is finally to stand. 
 Some currant trees may be placed in a warm situation so 
 as for the fruit to come early 5 but the finest currants are 
 those which grow rather in the shade j the fruit becomes 
 larger there and has not the disagreeable tartness which 
 it acquires if ripened in a hot sun. This shrub flourishes 
 and bears well under the shade of other trees, as is seen 
 so frequently and to such great extent in the market 
 gardens near London. When the young currant tree is 
 planted out, it ought not to be suffered to have any limbs 
 within five or six inches of the ground j but should be 
 made to have a clear and straight trunk to that height. 
 When the limbs come out, or rather the shoots that are 
 to become limbs, there should not be more than four 
 or six suffered^ to go on as principal limbs. By 
 shortening the shoots at the end of the first year, you 
 double the number of limbs. These, as in the case of 
 the espalier apple-tree, are to be kept constantly clear of 
 side-shoots by cutting off, every winter, the last sum- 
 mer's wood within one bud or so of the limb ; and when 
 the limbs have attained their proper length, the shoot at 
 the end of each limb should also be annually cut off, so 
 that, the tree when it has received its pruning, consists 
 of a certain number of limbs, looking like so many 
 rugged sticks, with bunches of spurs sticking out of 'them, 
 as in plate 7- On these spurs come the fruit in quan- 
 tities prodigious. If you neglect to prune in the manner 
 here directed, the centre of the tree becomes crowded 
 with wood, and the small quantity of fruit that comes 
 
VI. ' LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 near the point of the' 
 
 C , . , PLATE. 7. 
 
 limbs^ IS very poor and 
 
 small. This method of 
 pruning currants (and, as 
 will be seen by and by, 
 that of gooseberries is the 
 same) is amongst the 
 very greatest of improve- 
 ments in gardening, and 
 is a discovery to be as- 
 cribed solely to the market-gardeners in the neighbour- 
 hood of London, like a great -many other things in the art 
 of gardening, in which they far excel all the rest of the 
 world. Mr. Marshall in his book on gardening, and 
 thfr French authors in all their books, describe a method 
 very different indeed, from this, which is, at once, so 
 simple and so efficacious, causing to be produced such 
 immense quantities of fruit and always of the best 
 quality : hanging to one single joint of a currant tree, in 
 the market gardens, you frequently see as much fruit as 
 will fill a plate. One tree pruned in this manner is equal 
 to more than six trees pruned in the manner practised in 
 general' throughout the country. But, these gardeners 
 excel all the world in every thing that they undertake to 
 cultivate : they beat all the gentlemen's gardeners in the 
 kingdom : nothing ever fails that depends upon their 
 ^skill, and I should be ungrateful, indeed, if I did not 
 acknowledge that I have learned more from them than; 
 from all the books that I have read in my life, and from all 
 that I ever saw practised in gentlemen's gardens. There 
 are three sorts of currants, distinguished by their diflFerent 
 
PBUiTs. Chap. 
 
 colours of red, white, and blacky and the several uses of 
 all these are too well known to need any description. 
 
 ^68. FIG. — There are several sorts of figs, but some 
 of them will not ripen in England. Figs are raised either 
 from cuttings or layers, which are to be treated in the 
 manner directed under those heads, which see in the index. 
 The tig must stand against a wall, and a warm wall, too. 
 The great difficulty with regard to figs, is, that they must 
 be suflPered to grow in their own way, without much 
 training or pruning j and are therefore very unsightly 
 things. The ground in which they stand should be made 
 as rich as possible. They have the singularity that some 
 of their fruit is hardly formed at a time when part of it 
 is ripe, and that thus a succession of bearing is kept 
 up until the frost comes. As far as my observation 
 has gone, comparatively few people like figs, on account 
 of their mawkish taste 5 but, in a very fine summer, the 
 fruit is good and rich, and the number of the fruit is ge- 
 nerally very great. 
 
 269. FILBERD.—This is a fruit well known to us all. 
 The tree, or rather, lofty shrub, is raised from suckers or 
 layers : the latter is best because those raised from 
 suckers, infest the ground with suckers. You cannot 
 propiigate a filberd from seed, it being one of those plants 
 the seed of which does not, except by mere^ accident, 
 produce fruit equal to that of the tree from which it 
 comes. The plants raised from layers, or the suckers, 
 ought to be put into a nursery in rows two feet apart, 
 and at two feet distance in the row. They will then 
 become little trees by the end of two years, and they 
 
VI. LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 should not stand there longer before they be finally re- 
 moved. A very good situation for filberds would be not 
 far from the hedge in the outer garden ; where they 
 should never be suffered to grow to too great a height j 
 never higher than to make it a matter of no difficulty to 
 gather the fruit with the hand. In Kent, which county 
 produces more filberds than all the rest of the country 
 put together, the trees are planted in rows at about ten 
 or twelve feet apart, and at about the same distance 
 apart in the row. Care is taken to have a clear stem or 
 trunk about afoot high, after which limbs are suflfered to 
 come out in every direction. Care is taken to prevent any 
 limbs from going upright above a certain height, and an 
 annual pruning takes place in the winter to take out all dead 
 wood, all shoots that cross one another, and to keep the 
 middle of the tree clear, so that the sun and air find their 
 way to every part of it. Filberds, like every description 
 of hazel, will grow and bear under the shade of lofty 
 trees ; but the fruit is not so abundant and not nearly so 
 fine. To preserve filberds for use through the winter, and 
 until the spring, follow precisely the direction given in 
 the case of the chesnut. There are two sorts of filberds, the 
 scarlet and the grey, those being the colours of the skins 
 of the kernals. Filberds are really never good till they 
 are quite ready to drop out of the husk, or green shell, and 
 until the bud ends of them are white : if taken out of the 
 husk at an earlier stage than this, the kernels will shrivel, 
 
 / 270. GOOSEBERRY._This is a fruit, which, in all its 
 qualities, is upon a par with the currant, whether for 
 eating in its natural state, for cooking, or for preserving ; 
 for, though we in England do not commonly make use 
 
•* FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 df green currants, in America, they always make use of 
 them in preference to green gooseberries : in which re- 
 spect, as in a great many others, the people of that country 
 have taken their habits from the northern parts of En- 
 gland. When the green currants are used in a cooked state, 
 the ripe gooseberries are used in that state . Gooseberries 
 are propagated, planted out, trained, and pruned, in pre- 
 cisely the same manner as directed for currants. See para- 
 graph 266. Neither of these little shrubs should beplanted 
 by the side of walks, where they interfere in a very 
 troublesome manner with the cultivation of the plats 
 and borders. They should have a piece of ground de- 
 voted to their exclusive occupation, and should be planted 
 at distances sufficient to allow of going round them con- 
 veniently to gather the fruit. For gooseberries and 
 currants there might be plenty of room in a part of the 
 wall between the hedge and the garden. Sometimes 
 currants are placed against a wall facing to the north j 
 and their fruit if properly protected will hang on to the 
 latter end of October or later. These two very useful 
 fruits have most destructive enemies in the small birds, 
 especially the sparrows and the finches, which feed 
 upon their fruit-buds, and upon the fruit when very 
 young J and the black-birds, thrushes, and some others, 
 which feed upon them when ripe. To keep the birds 
 off in the spring is a very difficult matter. Frequent 
 shooting at them, or the attendance of some person con- 
 stantly upon the spot to frighten them away, is neces- 
 sary ; and these iheans can be but partly efficient j for, 
 who is to rise so early as birds, which are always upon 
 the wing for their food, not only before sun-rise, but 
 sometime before day-light. A? to the preserving of cur- 
 
VI, LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 rants and gooseberries until late in the fall, if you have 
 preserved them until they be ripe, it is a much easier 
 matter. If the currant-tree be against a wall, nothing is 
 more easy than to cover it over with a mat nailed to the 
 wall; and a standard tree is covered completely by a 
 couple of good new mats, well joined together and 
 closely drawn round at the bottom, and fastened round 
 the stem of the tree. Trees, however, subjected to this 
 discipline do not bear so well the next year. The sorts of 
 gooseberries are very numerous. The following is the 
 list cultivated in the King's gardens : Claret, Early Lin- 
 coln, Golden drop, Goliah, Green-gage, Imperial, Keen's 
 seedling, Lomaxs victory, Old Briton, Pope, Rumbullion, 
 Warrington. The Keens seedling, raised by Mr. Keen 
 at Islington, is valued very much on account of its thorns, 
 which are so numerous and so sharp and so well placed 
 as to keep the small birds from the buds 'and the young 
 fruit. For many years it has been the fashion to give 
 the preference to gooseberries of a large size, and the 
 people of Lancashire (chiefly the weavers) have been 
 famous for their success in this way 3 but, as quality is 
 far preferable to size, I regret the almost total dis- 
 appearance of the little smooth black gooseberry, and of 
 the little hairy red gooseberry, both of which have very 
 thin skins, and are of flavour delicious. The big goose- 
 berries are nearly all skin, and the pulp is of a very mean 
 flavour. For several years I have not seen a black goose- 
 berry tree in any garden except that of some old farm 
 house ; but I would earnestly recommend to the reader 
 to obtain these two sorts if he can. '*»^' ffi»«i 
 
 271. GRAPE.— See VINE. 
 
s FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 272. HUCKLEBERRY.— I do not recommend the 
 cultivation of this in a garden ; though two or three rod 
 of ground may very well be bestowed upon it. It grows 
 wild in the heaths of Surrey, Sussex and Kent, and in 
 many other parts of the kingdom, and is a very good fruit 
 for tarts, when mixed with currants, and by no means bad 
 to eat in its raw state. The benefit of cultivation would 
 doubtless make the fruit larger and of finer flavour. 
 
 273. MEDLAR. — A very poor thing, indeed, propa- 
 gated by grafting on pear stocks or crab stocks. It is 
 hardly worth notice, being, at best, only one degree 
 better than a rotten apple* 
 
 274. MULBERRY.— This tree is raised from cuttings 
 or from layers after the manner directed under those 
 heads. It is planted out like an apple or a pear tree. 
 It should not stand in the kitchen garden for it grows to 
 a great size, and should have grass beneath to receive 
 the falling fruit, which is never so good when gathered 
 from the tree. It is well known that silk- worms feed on 
 the mulberry leaf, especially on that of the white mul- 
 berry, which is cultivated for that purpose in France and 
 Italy, and which grows wild in America, bearing prodi- 
 giously. The other sort is the red mulberry, or purple, 
 as it ought to be called, and this is the only sort that is 
 common in England. 
 
 275. MELON. — As to the rearing of melons, that has 
 been fully treated of in the foregoing Chapter. The 
 «orts is all that we have to do with here. The following 
 
 ft the list of those cultivated in the King's gardens. 
 
VI. LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 Early Cantaleupe, Early Leopard, Early Polignac, Early 
 Romana, Green-Jieshed netted, Green-fleshed rock, Bossy's 
 Early rock. Black rock. Silver rock. Scarlet-fleshed rock. In 
 America, there is a melon of oblong shape, of small 
 size, and of most delicate flavour. They call it the 
 nutmeg melon j the vines are very slender. It is quick 
 in bearing, its colour, when ripe, is of a greenish yellow, 
 and its flesh very nearly approaching to white. This is 
 the finest melon tl;iat I ever tasted. The great things 
 that come from France sometimes, are very little better 
 than a squash or a pumpkin. I had some white-coated 
 melons the seed of which came from Spain : they weighed 
 from eight to twelve pounds a-piece 3 but were, in point 
 of flavour, not a bit better than a white turnip. The 
 rock melons of various sorts are, in my opinion, but very 
 poor things ; there is no part of them, except just the 
 middle, that is not hard, unless you let the fruit remain 
 till it be nearly rotten. Indeed all the red-fleshed melons 
 are hardj and I never have seen any melon of that descrip- 
 tion that I really liked to eat. The little American melon 
 which is grown there in great quantities in the natural 
 ground, may be eaten all out with a spoon, leaving a 
 rind at least not thicker than a shilling : it has twice the 
 quantity of eatable pulp as a great rock melon. 3ut 
 there is the water-melon, resembling other melons only 
 in its manner of growing, and somewhat in the shape 
 and size of the leaf. The size of these may be put 
 down at from ten to thirty pounds weight. The flesh 
 is not at all like that of other melons. From the skin 
 inwards, an inch wide, it is white, like the flesh of a green 
 ciicumber, but harder j after that, towards the centre of 
 the fruit, come ribs resembling long honey-combs, and. 
 
ftT FRUITS. «-^ Chap. 
 
 except that the colour is pink, or between pink and 
 scarlet, looking precisely like so much frozen snow. This 
 is the part that is eaten 3 and the fruit is called the water- 
 melon, because these ribs actually instantly turn to water in 
 vyour mouth- This is the favourite fruit of all ranks and 
 degrees, and of all ages, in hot countries j and, when 
 the weather is very hot, the refreshing effects of tasting 
 the fruit are really surprising. In England, this sort of 
 melon may be cultivated in the same manner, though 
 with somewhat more difficulty than the common sorts, 
 or musk melons j but they want greater heat and more 
 room. I have grown them very fine in England j and I 
 have Jiow a pot of plants to repeat the attempt this year 
 (1828), The seed is large and black, and the coat, after 
 the melon gets to be of considerable size, is always of 
 the deepest green. One great difficulty is, to know when 
 the fruit is ripe 5 for it emits no odour, like the musk 
 melon, and never changes its colour, not even after the 
 whole of the inside is rotten. In America, there is only 
 here and there a man skilful enough to ascertain, by 
 /'rapping his knuckles upon the fruit, whether the fruit be 
 tipe. Unskilful people plug them ; that is to say, take 
 out a piece, as you do out of a cheese, to taste it, and 
 then replace the plug. Other melons generally become 
 ripe in about 5 or 6 weeks after they begin to swell : in 
 the case of water melons, the best way would probably 
 'be to write down the time of setting and beginning to 
 swell of each fruit 5 and to allow seven Weeks, perhaps, 
 instead of 6 weeks, before you cut the fruit. 
 
 ^ ^76. NECTARINE.— To be propagated, planted, 
 trained and pruned, precisely in the same manner as dl- 
 
 1 
 
VI. ». LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 rected for the peach. Nectarines rarely succeed in Eng)- 
 land so well as peaches. They do not ripen so well : they 
 get into a shrivelled state before they are ripe, the causse 
 of which I never have been able to ascertain. The sorts 
 are numerous. Those cultivated in the King's gardens 
 are the following : Early Newington, Late Neivington, 
 Brugnon, Violette hdtivey Du Tellier*s, Elruge, Fairchilds, 
 Late Genoa, Murray, White. There are two other 
 nectarines, the Sweet Violet, and the Temple. I recom- 
 mend the White French, a very beautiful fruit, and a great 
 and constant bearer, the Violette hdtive, and the Du Tellier's. 
 I have never known the rest to ripen well. The White 
 French, though not of so very fine a flavour as the other 
 three, is so beautiful a fruit and so great a bearer that no 
 garden should ever be without it. To preserve the blos- 
 soms will come under the head of peach j and the thin- 
 ning of the fruit has already been spoken of under the 
 head of apricot. The rules there given relative to this 
 matter being applicable to all fruit trees that grow against 
 a wall or in espalier. 
 
 577. NUT. — The mere hazel-nut such as is produced 
 in the coppices, and in quantities so prodigious that, in 
 the year 1826, it was calculated that there were a greater 
 number of four-bushel sacks of nuts, at Weyhill Fair, 
 than of bags of hops 3 though all the hops grown at 
 Farnham and a considerable part of those grown in Kent, 
 are taken to that fair. Of course this is not a thing for 
 a garden nor even foi^ an orchard j but, there are certain 
 nuts called Cob-nuts, of three times the bulk of the 
 common nut, and with kernals of nearly as fine flavour as 
 that of the filberd. These are propagated, planted. 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 trained and pruned, in precisely the same manner as the 
 filberd j for the seed will not produce a tree to resemble 
 the fruit of the original tree, except by mere accident. 
 
 278. PEACH. — The propagation, planting, training 
 and pruning, have already been spoken of fully ; but I 
 have here to speak of the preserving or protecting the 
 blossoms of wall-trees. The peach, like the nectarine, 
 will bear, and sometimes ripen the fruit well, against a 
 wall facing the west j facing the east, neither does well j 
 and the proper situation of both, is, a wall facing the 
 south. Here the situation is as warm as our climate 
 will suffer it to be j but the bloom comes out at so early 
 a season that that season is always a time of anxiety with 
 the gardener, on account of the frosts by which the 
 blossoms are frequently so severely attacked as to prevent 
 the coming of any crop at all. To protect the blossoms, 
 therefore, against the frost is a matter of great import- 
 ance. The boughs of the yew-tree and other evergreens ; 
 or, the spreading parts of fern, are used for this purpose. 
 Some people nail up mats in the evening and take them 
 off in the morning j but to mat is very tiresome -, and, 
 as to the boughs and the fern, they must remain on day 
 and night j and, what with the putting them on and the 
 taking them off and their keeping off the sun and air 
 from the buds and the fruit, they generally do as much 
 harm as good. Frosts descend -, that is to say, their 
 destructive effect comes down upon a tree perpendicularly. 
 It is not the cold that destroys the germ of the fruit. It 
 is the wet joined to the cold. That which is dry will not 
 freeze ; frost has power on those things only which have 
 moisture in them j and though there is moisture in the 
 
VI. LIST OP FRUITS. 
 
 blossom, that is not sufficient of itself to give the frosts 
 the power of destruction. When fronts come without 
 rain or dews, they do very little harm to blossoms. 
 Therefore, the thing to be desired, is, something to keep 
 off the wet during the time that the blossom is becoming 
 a fruit. The best way of doing this is to have something 
 going out from the top of the wall to about a foot and a 
 half wide, which might remain day and night, until the 
 dangerous season were over. The thing recommended 
 by a very able and experienced French writer, M. J)e 
 CoMBLE, is, a board of that width, supported by posts at 
 convenient distances. These posts, however, besides 
 
 ; their unsightliness, I object to on account of the holes 
 that must be made for placing them in the ground. To 
 
 I obviate this, and to cause the operation to be little trou- 
 blesome, I would, in the building of my wall, have, in 
 the row of bricks next to the top row, what the brick- 
 layers call a wooden brick, at suitable distances. In 
 these wooden bricks (to be made of the most durable 
 wood), might be holes for the purpose of admitting the 
 end of a stout piece of iron, about, perhaps, two feet long, 
 besides the part necessary to enter into the brick. When 
 the blooming season arrived, and just before the blossoms 
 began to burst, these pieces of iron would be put into 
 the holes in the bricks and there fastened by means easily 
 to be invented j upon these pieces of iron the boards 
 might be laid all along the wall j the boards might be 
 fastened down to the pieces of iron by holes made in the 
 former to admit a ^mall cord to fasten the former to the 
 latter, and thus the whole would remain safe against the 
 power of the winds until the season arrived when the 
 I fruit would be out of danger. The board might be 
 
FRUITS. Chap 
 
 placed rather in a sloping direction, in order to prevent 
 rains from pouring upon it and running down the wall. 
 When done with, these protecting materials might be 
 safely laid aside until the next year : here is a method, at 
 once little expensive, little troublesome, not at all 
 annoying to the trees, and perfectly effectual. As to the 
 thinnbig of the fruit, greater care is, if possible, necessary 
 here than in the case of the apricot. No single shoot 
 should, on any account, be suffered to bear more than 
 two peaches j and, if it be not a strong shoot, not more 
 than one -, and this for the reasons amply given under 
 the head of apricot j where I ought to have observed, 
 that it is not the producing of the pulp which requires 
 the great effort from the tree j but the bringing of the 
 seed to perfection j so that, though you are to have the 
 same weight of peaches on a tree that should bear a 
 hundred as on a tree that should bear two hundred ; still 
 the effort required from the tree would be only half as 
 great in the former case as in the latter } because, in the 
 former, there would be only half the number of seeds. 
 The sorts of peaches are very numerous. I shall first 
 give the list cultivated in the king's gardens, and 
 then give my opinion, founded on experience, 
 Catheriney Incomparable, Old Newington, Royal Paveyl 
 Bears Early, Bourdine, Chancellor, Early purple, Early 
 Vineyard, French Mignonne, Gallande, Montague, No^ 
 blesse, Persique, Red Magdalen, Royal George, Teton de 
 Venus, Yellow Alberge. The list of peaches which I re- 
 commend are the Early Anne, not very fine but early, and 
 a constant bearer, the Double Montague, the Early Mont- 
 aubon, the French Mignonne, the Grosse Mignonne, the 
 Royal George, the Noblesse, the Early Gallande, the Late 
 Gallande, the Vanguard, the Bellegarde, the Chancellor, 
 
VI. LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 And the VioUtte hdtive. These are the best'peachesj ao 
 cording to my observation 5 and, after the Early Anne, 
 I have placed them as they appear to me to be best 
 in quality j that is to say, the best first, and the least 
 good last. In point of bearing, the Royal George is a 
 famous peach, and it is not much excelled in any other 
 respect. Peaches should never be gathered (and the 
 «ame with regard to nectarines) until just about to dro^ 
 from the tree. They are not to be pulled 5 and if they 
 do not come off with just putting your hand under them 
 and giving them a little touch, they are not ripe 5 and an 
 unripe peach is a very poor thing. Some people place a 
 net along in front of the tree, tacked on one side to the 
 wall, and supported on the other by little forked sticks, 
 in order to catch the fruit when they fall, and to prevent 
 ^bruising. And this is a very good way when you have 
 not time to make an individual examination of the fruit ; 
 but, if one fall upon another, a bruising takes place in 
 spite of the swagging situation of the net. Peaches and 
 nectarines also may be preserved like apricots ; and they 
 make, if possible, still better pies and tarts 3 though, for 
 these purposes, they should not be quite dead ripe. The 
 greatest possible attention must be paid to have your 
 trees of the right sort. When gentlemen go to a nur- 
 sery to choose trees, and especially trained trees, they 
 are too apt to be captivated by the appearance of the 
 plant ; but, as ill weeds grow apace, so it is with fruit 
 trees. A Catherine or a Magdalen peach would be of 
 twice the size in the same space of time as o. French 
 MignonneoY a Montahon ; and, indeed, it may be laid down 
 as a gTjneral rule, that, in proportion as the fruit excels, 
 the stature of the tree is puny and its growth slow : it 
 o2 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 is the same through almost every. thing in nature, and it 
 would be strange, indeed, if peach trees formed an ex- 
 ception. With regard to the diseases to which the 
 peach-tree is subject, and the enemies that it is exposed 
 tOj mention will be made of these hereafter. 
 
 279. PEAR. — The propagating and planting have 
 already been noticed j because every thing in those 
 respects said of the apple is applicable to the pear. In 
 the rearing of orchards of pears also, the rules for the 
 rearing of apple orchards apply in all respects whatever ; 
 and the reader should, therefore, now turn to those rules. 
 Pears, in a still greater degree than apples, demand 
 espalier training if they are of fine sorts. Indeed, these 
 •fine sorts, the greater part of which have come from 
 France, are worthy of a good wall, facing the west, the 
 cast, or the north. As to the training and pruning of 
 them, the rjiles are precisely those described under the 
 head of Espalier, which see. Pears very seldom bear 
 upon the last year's wood 3 but upon spurs in like man- 
 ner as the apple does. No s-tandard pear tree, any more 
 than a standard apple-tree, should have place in a gar- 
 den. AU the reasons given for training apples in the 
 espalier form, apply to pears, and jyith still greater force ; 
 for, it is perfectly useless to attempt to get fine pears 
 upon standard-trees. Most trees will bear 3 but the 
 fruit will not ripen, and will not be of good flavour even 
 if they do. I have mentioned before, that the stocks for 
 pears, are pears raised from the pip, quinces raised from 
 cuttings or layers, or white-thorn raised from the stones. 
 For wall-trees or espalier trees, quince stocks are the 
 best ; and that these may be had from the pips, is proved 
 by this fact, that I have now more than a thousand 
 
VI, LIST OP FRUITS. ' 
 
 young pear trees grafted upon quince stocks raised from 
 the pips. I got the pips from America/ where quinces 
 are grown in great abundance. It would be j^difficult to 
 get the pips here, and, therefore, quince stocks must 
 generally be raised from layers or cuttings. The quince- 
 stocks are the best ; because they do not force up wood 
 so big and so lofty as the pear stocks. The white-thorn 
 is very durable, and has a dwarf tendency j but it is apt 
 to send out suckers j and certainly does not produce a 
 tree so fruitful in its early stages as the quince-stock : the 
 sorts of pears are almost endless. The French authors 
 mention a hundred and fifty-two sorts. I shall insert the list 
 from the Hortus Kewensis, and then mention those sorts 
 which I think may content any man : It is : Aston-town 
 Pear, Autumn Bergamot, GanseVs Bergamot, Summer Ber- 
 gamot. Brown beurrce, Golden beurr^e, White beurrde, Bishop's 
 Thumb, Winter Bonchr4tien, Williams*s Bonchretien, Citron 
 des Carm£s,Chaumontelle, Crasanne, Colmar, D*Auch, Jargo- 
 nelle, Lammas, Martin sec, Red Doyenn^j Summer Rousselet, 
 St. Germain, Swan's Egg, Verte-longue, Virgouleuse, Wind' 
 sor, Catillac, Dr. Uvedales St. Germain. The only pears 
 that I think necessary, are, for the summer, the^Gree« 
 chisel, which is the earliest of all, and if the fruit come 
 from a tree well trained and pruned, it is by no means a 
 mean pear j the Catherine pear, which is a little long 
 pear with a beautiful red cheek -, it does not rot at the 
 heart as some pears do, and is nearly as great a bearer 
 as the Green chisel itself, and that is a great bearer, 
 indeed. The Summer Bergamot ; and the Summer Bon- 
 chretien. The autumn pears are, the brown Beurr^, the 
 Autumn Bergamot, and particularly the GanseVs Bergamot, 
 which, in my opinion, very far surpasses the Brown beur- 
 r^e. The winter pears that would satisfy me, are, the 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 Winter Bonchr^tien, the Colmar, the Crasanne, and the 
 yPoir d\Auch, that is to say, the pear of the city of Auck 
 in France. Pears for cooking are, Parkinson s pear, the 
 Cadillac, and Uvedales St. Germain. Besides these, there 
 .are two pears which I have propagated from cuttings 
 brought from Long Island, and which appeared to have 
 no name there : I call the one the Long Island Autumnal 
 Pear, the very finest fruit of the pear kind, without any 
 exception, that I ever tasted in my life. When ripe, 
 which it is early in October, it is of a greenish yellow 
 colour, weighs about three quarters of a pound, actually 
 melts in your mouth, and, with a little care, keeps well 
 to the middle of November. The other is what I call 
 the Long Island Perry pear, which is of a middling size, 
 very hard, and very rough to the taste when raw j but 
 this pear, when baked, or stewed and then preserved, is 
 the finest thing of the kind that I ever saw. To these 
 recommendations may be added, that this tree is as great 
 a bearer as the Green chisel itself 5 and, which is rather 
 lingular of the pear and apple kind, the three years that 
 I was in Long Island, these trees were loaded with fruit 
 every year. Cattle and hogs are turned into the orchards 
 •of America to live and fatten upon the fruit : they take 
 up from the ground those which they like best ; or they 
 feed from the lower branches of the trees. 1 never per- 
 ceived my cattle extremely anxious about other fruit j 
 but to get at the perry pears, the steers and oxen used 
 to raise themselves upon their hind legs, which I very 
 rarely saw them do in the case of any other tree. Their 
 strong jaws could mash them; and they, therefore, were able 
 ^to ascertain their sugary quality. Raw, they will keep all 
 the winter long, and until the month of May j and still be 
 its sqlid and as hard as ever. I am sure that this is the 
 
VI. , LIST OP FRUITS. 
 
 best pear in the world for cooking, and, 1 think, for the 
 making of perry. With regard to the gathering of pears 
 for the table, the rules are precisely the same as those 
 laid down in the case of the apple ; though it may be 
 observed that summer pears (which keep but for a short 
 time) ought to be .gathered a little while before they be 
 ripe, and especially the Green Chisel and the Catherine. 
 
 280. PLUM.-— As to the sort of stock, it must be the 
 seed of the plum, as mentioned under the head of Pro- 
 pagation. The plum is budded in general, and not 
 grafted ; so is the cherry j but both may be grafted, and 
 this is the commop practice in America. As to the ma- 
 aagement of the oaddec; pla«t, and as to planting out, 
 directions have before been given, in the case of the 
 peach, if against a wall -, and, in the case of the espalier 
 apple, if in the form of the espalier. Plums do not re- 
 quire so much room as other wall trees 5 nor do they re- 
 quire so much as apples, or pears, or cherries, in es- 
 palier. They bear generally upon spurs, seldom on the 
 last year's wood 5 for training and pruning against a 
 wall, the rules laid down under the head of Apricot 
 exactly apply ; and, all the objection to standards, men- 
 tioned under the head of Apple, equally apply here. 
 Against a wall, plums are placed on walls facing the 
 east, the west, or the north j and the Green-gage (queen 
 of all plums), is finer when it has a northern aspect than 
 when much exposed to the sun : it is not so sugary j but 
 it is larger, comes in more by degrees, and is, in fact, of 
 finer flavour than when exposed to a hot sun. As to the 
 sorts of plums. Those cultivated in the king's gardens 
 are as follows : Red Bonum Magnum, White Bonum Mag^ 
 nfinif Catherine, Goes Golden Drop, Damascene, Drap d*Or, 
 
FRUITS. 
 
 c^ 
 
 Fotheringham, Blue Gage, Green Gage, German Prune, Im- 
 peratrice, Mirabelle, Morocco, Early Orleans, Late Orleans, 
 Blue Perdrigon, White Perdrigon, Pr4coce de Tours, Queen , 
 Mother Plum, Royale de Tours, Simiennes, Wine-sour, or I 
 Windsor. The Green-gage and the Orleans are the most 
 fashionable plums j though the Blue Gage, which comes 
 late in the fall, is,in my opinion, one of the finest of plums ; 
 and it is a very great bearer. All plums may be preserved 
 with sugar : the green gage or the blue gage would be 
 the best 3 but damsons and 6M/Zaces are generally used, 
 because they come mote abundantly, and, of course, are 
 not so difficult to obtain. The Magnum Bonums are fit 
 for nothing but tarts and sweetmeats. Magnum is right 
 enough J but, as to bonum, the word has seldom been sO 
 completely misapplied. -<tr 
 
 •• • ^P 
 
 281. QUINCE. — There is an apple-shaped and a pear-;'* 
 shaped. It is not a fruit to be eaten raw -, but to be put 
 into apple-pies and some other things. They are to be 
 preserved liiie apples ; and the trees are raised from 
 cuttings or layers. 
 
 282. RASPBERRY. — There are two sorts, dis- 
 tinguished by their colours of red and white. There are 
 some of each that bear a second crop in the autumn. 
 The largest of raspberries is called the Antwerp, and a 
 very fine fruit it is. Raspberries are propagated from 
 offsets taken from the old stool: these are taken off in 
 the fall, and they bear the next year. The stools ought' 
 to stand in rows at six feet apart, and at three feet apart 
 in the row. It is very curious that in the northern 
 countries of America, Nova Scotia arid New Brunswick 
 for instance, the raspberry plant dies completely down in 
 
VI. * LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 the fall of the year, and new shoots come up again out 
 of the ground in the spring, much about after the man- 
 ner of fern. These shoots bear the first year, though 
 they do not make their appearance above ground until 
 June J and where the land is clear of high trees, and 
 where the August sun has shrivelled up the leaves of the 
 raspberries, these shrubs form a sheet of red for scores 
 of miles at a stretch. They are the summer fruit of the 
 wild pigeon, and of a great variety of other birds. 1 
 once thought that raspberries would never bear upon the 
 shoot of the year in England ; but I have frequently, of 
 late years, seen them bear upon such shoots. The stems 
 of raspberries should be prevented from bending down, 
 when' loaded with leaves and with fruit, by stakes put 
 along the sides of the rows, and by little rods tied to 
 these stakes. Every stool will send oat, during summer, 
 a great number of shoots. When the leaf is down, 
 these should be all taken away, except about four to pro- 
 duce fruit the next year. The shoots that have borne 
 during the summer, die in the autumn : these should also 
 be removed j and, in November, and again in March, all 
 the ground should be well and truly digged ; and the 
 weeds should be kept down completely during the whole 
 of the summer. One manuring in three years will be 
 sufficient. The common little raspberry is ^ut a poorish 
 thing ; and every one should take care to have the 
 Antwerp if possible. Raspberries, when gathered, willr 
 not bear much keeping or pressing : they are a very de- 
 licious fruit when taken at the proper time 5 but, if put 
 together in too great quantities, whether they be gathered 
 carefully or not, they will taste badly directly, and, in 
 twelve hours, they will be sour. Raspberries, like eur- 
 
 o5 
 
FRUITS. Cauii,f 
 
 rants, are sometimes made use of, with the assistance of ^ 
 sugar, to make wine, and, in America, where strength is , 
 a great requisite, to make brandy; that is to say, a.. 
 parcel of brandy and sugar is put amongst the juice of 
 the raspberries : these things I, for my part, totally di^:. 
 approve of : that which we call currant wine, is neither^ 
 more nor less than red-looking weak rum. The strength - 
 coming from the sugary and gooseberry wine is a thing: 
 of the same character, and, if the fruit were of no other 
 use than this, one might wish them to be extirpated. , 
 People deceive themselves. The thing is called wine ; 
 but it is ruin : that is to say, an extract from sugar. 
 
 283. SERVICE. — A tree of the woods, where it bears 
 a thing between a sloe and a haw. It is totally unfit to 
 be eaten 3 and, therefore, I shall say no more about it. 
 
 284. STRAWBERRY.— Very dififerent from the last 
 article ! This is a fruit, exceeded in no one respect (ex- 
 cept that of keeping) but by very few ; and surpassing a 
 very great majority of the fruits of this country. It is 
 
 , so well known, that to describe either plant or fruit 
 would be almost an insult to the reader. I shall, there- 
 fore, have to speak only of the dififerent sorts, and to . 
 describe the manner of propagating and cultivating the 
 plants, so as to insure, or, at least, give the best chance! 
 of, fine fruit and large crops, no man ever having found 
 that he had too much of this excellent fruit. Strawberry; 
 plants are raised in the following manner : the planti 
 while it is bearing, sends forth runners along upon the 
 ground : these runners have several joints, and, at every, 
 joint, there comes out a root which penetrates down into 
 the ground. Each of these roots sends up a plant -, so that 
 
VI. LIST OP FRUITS, 
 
 the runner, if it extend to a yard or two, as it frequently 
 will, would, perhaps, produce ten or a dozen plants. 
 All these plants, if cut from the runner and planted out, 
 would grow J but all of them would not bear the first 
 year if so planted out. The runners begin to start 
 usually in May, not making much progress at first, on 
 account of the coldish weather 3 but, by the middle of 
 June, the runners have produced an abundance of plants. 
 You take the earliest and stoutest of these, plant them 
 out before the end of the first week in August, and these 
 plants will bear abundantly the next year. Great care 
 must be taken in this planting. , The ground should be 
 made rich and fine : the root is but small, and the 
 weather is hot : therefore, the root should be fixed well 
 in tlie ground with the fingers ; and a little rain or pond 
 water should be given to the plants. They should be 
 attended to very carefully to see that worms do not tear 
 them out of the ground or move them at all : the 
 ground should be moved frequently between them, ap- 
 proaching as near to the plant as possible. By Novem- 
 ber, the plants will be stout : the winter, however severe, 
 will do them no injury j and, in the month of June, 
 when only a year old, they will produce a crop worth fifty 
 times the labour bestowed upon them. When planted 
 QUt, they ought to be placed from three to five in a 
 dump, each plant at a few inches from the other. The 
 clumps should be in rows of three feet apart, and, if it 
 were four, it would be so much the better, and at three feet 
 apart in the row. To cultivate strawberries in beds, suf- 
 fering them to cover the whole of the ground with their 
 runners and young plants, is a miserable method, pro- 
 ceeding from the suggestions either of idleness, or of 
 greediness, and sure to lead to the defeating the object 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 of this latter. Strawberries will bear a little in this 
 way, though not much j but the fruit will be of small 
 and insipid flavour. Neither should even the clumps be 
 suffered to stand to bear for more than two years. I have 
 sometimes tried them the third year, but have never found 
 it answer. But then to have new clumps is so easy that 
 this can form an objection with no one. Having need of 
 a certain number of clumps, you have only to take up 
 those that have borne for two years, and plant just the 
 same number of new ones. To remove strawberries 
 from one place to another is the easiest thing in the 
 world : you have nothing to do but to give a chop with 
 a spade round the clump ; take it up and put it in the 
 place where you wish to have it. This may be done at 
 any time between October and May without the smallest 
 chance of injuring the crop : to all its other excellent 
 qualities, the strawberry adds hardiness of the plant, 
 in a swamp, on a bank, amidst rocks, and upon the tops 
 of walls, I have seen strawberries growing and bearing ; 
 but stifling they will not endure j and, therefore, if you 
 want the industry and care to plant them at suitable dis- 
 tances and to keep them clear of grass and weeds, never 
 expect a crop of strawberries. Before I come to speak 
 of the diflFerent sorts, let me notice three things : pre- 
 serving stVawberries from the birds and slugs ; keeping 
 them from being covered with dirt by the heavy rains -, 
 and giving them water if the ground be at all dry. As 
 to the first of these, the wood-pigeons, the common 
 pigeons, the doves, the blackbirds; the jack daws, the 
 thrushes, and even some of the small birds, invade the 
 strawberry clumps, and, if unresisted, destroy a great 
 part of the fruit. In this case, which happens wheh 
 there are woods and shrubberies at hand, nothing is a 
 
VI. MST OP FBUITS. 
 
 protection but a net, held up by hoops or little forked . 
 sticks. The slug is a still more bitter enemy j and, in 
 some seasons, where strawberries are suflFered to run 
 together in beds, more than half the fruit is consumed or 
 spoiled by these nasty and mischievous reptiles. The 
 remedy is, to examine the clumps well just as the straw- 
 berries are beginning to be ripe. See that there are no 
 slugs about the stems of the leaves, and then make a 
 little circle of hot lime, at half a foot or so at the ex- 
 tremity of the leaves of the clumps. No slug will enter 
 that magic circle ; but, if rain come, or even heavy 
 dews, the lime becomes slack and powerless, and a little 
 more must be put upon the circle, the least dust in the 
 world being enough. The other precaution ; namely, to 
 keep the fruit from being beaten by the rain down 
 amongst the dirt, short grass-mowings, or moss, the 
 latter being the best of the two, should be laid round the 
 stems of the plants, just as the fruit begins to ripen. 
 This will completely guard against the evil : come what 
 rain will, the fruit will always be clean. The last thing 
 that I have to mention, is the watering} and a real good 
 watering with rain-water, or pond-water, should be 
 given just when the blossoms are falling and the fruit 
 begins to set. Blacking the ground over with the rose 
 of the watering-pot is of no use at all : the water should 
 be poured out of the nose of the pot, held close down 
 to the plant j and, one gallon of water, at least, should 
 be given at one time to every clump of plants. If the 
 weather be very hot in June, even while the fruit is 
 ripening, and while you are gathering strawberries, they 
 might have another such a watering, and that would be 
 enough. Nothing have I ever found more difficult than. 
 
.3 £■ FRUITS. ChAP< 
 
 behind my back, to secure an honest watering. Watering? 
 potft, when full, are heavy j the distance may be great, 
 and few men like to carry heavy things for^any long con- 
 tinuation. Just turn your back, and they merely wet the 
 ground j and, if you return, you see that the strawberries 
 have all been watered ; but (and mind this), go the next 
 day, if the weather have continued fair, and you will 
 then see how you have been cheated. Strawberries like 
 good, deep, and rich land : holding land, as the people in 
 the country call it : they will grow almost any where, 
 and will produce more or less of fruit 5 but, if you mean 
 to have fine strawberries, you must have good landj 
 therefore, make the land as good as you can make it. As 
 to the sorts of strawberries, the scarlet is the earliest j 
 and some people like it : the hautbois (or high-stalked), 
 the Ketv pine, the Chili, the White Alpine and the Red 
 Aljniie i which two latter are vulgarly called wood straW' 
 berties. The hautboy has a musky and singular flavour 
 as well as smell, and some people prefer it to all others. 
 But, the great strawberry of all, now-a-days, is that 
 which was some years ago raised from seed by Mr. Keen 
 of Islington, which is therefore called the Keen's seed- 
 ling ; and this strawberry, which is the only one used for 
 forcing in the King's gardens, has nearly supplanted 
 every other sort. It is early ^ it is a prodigious bearer j 
 the fruit is large, and very large ; and it surpasses, in 
 my opinion, all others in flavour. I gathered some of 
 the Kew pine (for many years thought the best of all) j 
 at the same time, I gathered some of the Keen's seedling : 
 I put the two parcels down upon the table before several 
 persons, who tasted both in order to form a judgment j 
 and every one of them said that the Keens seedling was 
 
VI. LIST OP FRUITS. 
 
 the best, I having taken care not to let any of them 
 know which was which. But the London market speaks 
 to the character of this strawberry. Notwithstanding 
 habit and prejudice, the London gardeners have founds 
 that no other strawberry will sell ; and, in fact, there is 
 hardly any other now brought to the markets. The 
 Alpines are poor hard little things ; and, as to the Chili 
 (nearly as large as a pigeon's egg), it is very little supe- 
 rior in flavour to the potatoe. In my " American Gar- 
 dener" 1 have recommended the forming of strawberry 
 plantations into beds, knowing that it was impossible 
 to prevail upon people in that country to take the pains 
 required to cultivate them in clumps. 
 
 285. VINE. — It is the practice in England to cultivate 
 vines only against walls, against houses, upon roofs of 
 houses, and under glasi j but, that it might be cultivate<l 
 otherwise on many spots in the south of England, the his- 
 tory of the country most amply proves to us. For a series 
 of ages there were extensive vineyards in England j and 
 wine made here very nearly as good as that of France. I 
 remember seeing, when I was a boy, a beautiful vineyard, 
 in extent, I should think, of two or three acres, in th€ 
 grounds of the estate called Painshill at Cobham, in 
 Surrey. The vines were there planted in rows, and tied 
 to stakes, in just the same manner as in the vineyards ia 
 France j and, at the time when I saw that vineyard, the 
 Tines were well-loaded with a black-coloured grape. The, 
 reasons why this culture has been dropped, are of no im-.; 
 portance at present ; but the facts that I have stated are 
 of great importance 5 because they prove that vines may 
 be raised in espalier in a warm situation in any garden on 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 the south side of Warwickshire at the least. The grape- 
 vine is propagated from cuttings or from layers. A layer 
 is a shoot of the vine, laid into the ground in one part o 
 it with a little sloping cut on tlie under side. The 
 fore part of the shoot is then tacked to the wall, or a 
 stake is driven into the ground to tie it to. In the fall 
 of the year this is a young vine with a good root to it 5 
 but, as vines do not remove very well, the usual way is 
 to untack a shoot from the vine which grows against the 
 wall, bring it out into the border opposite. Sink a pretty 
 large flower-pot into the border, place the cut part of 
 the shoot into the flower-pot three parts filled with 
 earth, put a nice straight stick down into the flower-pot 
 at the same time, put a peg on the wall side of the pot to 
 prevent the shoot from rising up, tie the top of the shoot 
 to the stick, then fill the pot and the hole full of earth, 
 and press it down well so as to form a little dish to hold 
 the water. Soon after this is done, which ought to be 
 in the month of February, cut the fore part of the shoot 
 off to within a joint or two of the ground, tie it firmly to 
 the stick 3 and, when it sends out its shoots, tie one of 
 them to the stick, and cut the other away. In the fall 
 of the year, cut off the back part of the shoot which 
 attaches the tree against the wall, dig up the pot, and you 
 have a vine to remove to what spot you please, to be 
 transplanted by merely turning the ball out of the pot, 
 just as you would in the case of a pot of cucumbers or 
 melons. When transplanted thus in the fall, or any time 
 before the middle of February, cut the vine down to 
 within one or two buds of the ground, and then you 
 begin to train as hereafter to be directed. The other 
 way of propagating vines is by cuttings. You cut off. 
 
 A 
 
VI. LIST or FRUITS. 
 
 before the middle of February, a piece of a shoot wliicK 
 came out the last summer : this cutting should, if con- 
 venient, have an inch or two of the last year's wood at the 
 bottom of it ; but this is by no means absolutely neces- 
 sary. The cutting should have four or five buds or joints : 
 make the ground rich, move it deep and make it fine. 
 Tlien put in the cutting with the setting stick, leaving 
 only two buds, or joints, above ground j fastening the 
 cutting well in the ground. Or, another, and, I think, 
 a better, way of propagating vines by cuttings, is, to take 
 in February, a bud of the last year's wood, cutting all 
 wood away except about half an inch above and half an 
 inch below the bud, and shaving off the bark, and a little 
 way into the wood straight down this inch-long piece, 
 only let this shaving be on the side opposite to the bud. 
 Bury the wholci two inches deep in a largish pot filled 
 with good mould, keeping the bud in an upright position. 
 Do not mind covering the bud over j it will shoot up 
 through the mould, and the place behind it, from which 
 you cut out the slice of bark and wood, will send out 
 vigorous roots j and then, as to keeping it cool,' 
 see CUTTINGS, under the head of Propagation, in 
 this Chapter. As to the training and pruning of vines, I 
 have in my book on American Gardening, given instruc- 
 tions for the performing of this work in the espalier 
 form. The very same instructions apply to walls and to 
 houses, and also to roofs, seeing that, on roofs, it is' 
 merely a trellis-work lying in a sloping attitude. I have 
 supposed a new plantation of vines to be made expressly 
 for espalier training; and, with several sorts of grapes, 
 this method would succeed perfectly well in the south of 
 England, in warm spots and at no great distance from 
 
FRUtTS. ChA**. i 
 
 Walls facing the south. I shall, therefore, now repeat, 
 with some little variations as to season and other cir- 
 cumstances, my directions for training and pruning the 
 vines in espalier. First, look at plate 8, which represents; 
 as well as t am able to make it represent, three trellis - 
 works for vines. These trellis -works are to be five fee' 
 high, and to consist of little upright bars, two and <i 
 half inches by two inches, put two feet into the ground, 
 j\nd njade of locust wood. The proper situation for 
 vines would be in a line on the south side of the north 
 wall, or on the south side of the south wall, and at 
 about seven feet from the wall, leaving plenty of room 
 for the work to be performed on the wall-trees as well 
 as on the trellis. The length of such line would be 200 
 feet J and, allowing for the thickness of the walls, and 
 for the door-way coming into the hot-bed ground (in 
 case you choose the south side of the north wall), and for 
 the doorrway going from the inner to the outer garden, if 
 you choose the other wall, there would be space for twelve 
 vines at sixteen feet apart. You would, therefore, plant 
 your cuttings or your young vines at that distance. Look 
 now at the plate, which, in fig. 1. represents the cutting 
 become a plant, or the young vine, having made its first 
 year's shoot. There is no diflference in the treatment ; 
 but, in order to avoid unnecessary words, let us suppose 
 it to have been a cutting, and suppose it to have been 
 tied to a little stake during the summer. The first year 
 of its being a vine, after the leaves are oflf and before 
 pruning, it is exhibited in figure 2. The same year's 
 vine, pruned in February, is exhibited in figure 3. The 
 vine, in its next summer is exhibited, with^shoots, leaves, 
 and grapes, in figure 4. Having measured your dis- 
 
VI. 
 
 LIST OF FRtlTS. 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 tances, put in a cutting at each place where there is to 
 be a vine, leaving above ground only two joints or buds. 
 From these will come two shoots, perhaps j and, if two 
 come, rub off the top one and leave the bottom one, and, 
 in winter, cut off the bit of dead wood which will, in 
 this case, stand above the bottom shoot. Choose, how- 
 ever, the upper one to remain, if the lower one be very 
 weak. Or, a better way is, to put in two or three cut- 
 tings within an inch or two of each other, leaving only 
 one bud to each out of ground, and taking away, in the 
 fall, the cuttings that send up the weakest shoots. The 
 object is to get one good shoot, coming out as near to 
 the ground as possible. This shoot you tie to an upright 
 stick, letting it grow its full length. When winter f 
 comes, cut this shoot down to the bud nearest to the 
 ground. The next year another, and a much stronger 
 shoot will come out ; and, when the leaves are off, in the 
 fall, this shoot will be eight or ten feet long, having been 
 tied to a stake as it rose, and will present what is de- 
 scribed in Jig. 1. plate 3. You must make your trellis; 
 that is, put in your upright locust-bars to tie the next 
 summer's shoots to. You will want {see Jig. 2.) eight 
 shoots to come out to run horizontally, to be tied to 
 these bars. You must now, then, in winter, cut oflF your 
 vine, leaving eight buds or joints. You see there is a 
 mark for this cut at a, Jig. I. During summer, eight 
 shoots will come, and, as they proceed on, they must 
 be tied with matting, or something soft, to the bars. 
 The whole vine, both ways included, is supposed to go 
 sixteen feet 3 but, if your tillage be good, it will go 
 much further, and then the ends must be cut oflF in 
 winter. Now, then, winter presents you your vine as in 
 
VI. LIST OF FRUITS. 
 
 fig. 2 j and now you must prune, which is the all-im* 
 portant part of the business. Observe, and bear in 
 mind, that little or no fruit ever comes on a grape-vine, 
 except on young shoots that come out of wood of the 
 last year. All the four last year's shoots that you find in 
 fig.^l. would send out bearers ; but if you suffer that, 
 you will have a great parcel of small wood, and little or 
 no fruit next year. Therefore, cut off four of tha last 
 year's shoots, as at b. (Jig. 3.) leaving only one bud. The 
 four other shoots will send out. a shoot from every one 
 of their buds, and if the vine be strqng, there will be 
 two bunches of grapes on each of these young shoots j 
 and, as the last year's shoots are supposed to be each 
 eight feet long, and as there generally is a bud at, or 
 about, every half foot, every last year's shoot will pro- 
 l duce thirty-two bunches of grapes j every vine 128 
 I bunches 3 and the twelve vines 1536 j and, possibly, 
 i nay, probably, so many pounds of grapes ! Is this in- 
 j credible ? Take, then, this well-known fact, that there 
 I is a grape-vine, a single vine, with only one stem, in the 
 i. King's gardens, at his palace of Hampton Court, which 
 f has, for, perhaps, half a century, produced on an average, 
 i annually, a ton of grapes ; that is to aay, 2,240 pounds, 
 j avordupois weight. That vine covers a space of about 
 t forty feet in length, and twenty in breadth. However, 
 \ s> '^8^ you have only ^ fifth part of what you might 
 ^ hav^, _ Jrr*»dred bunches of grapes are worth a great 
 deal more than the annual trouble, which is, indeed, very 
 little. Fig. 4 shows a vine in summer. You see tiie four 
 shoots bearing, and four other shoots coming on for the 
 next year, from the butts left at the winter pruning, as 
 4 at h. These four latter you are to tie to the bars as they 
 
muiTs. Chap. 
 
 advance on during the summer. When winter comes 
 again, you are to cut off the four shoots that sent out th 
 bearers during the summer, and leave the four that 
 grew out of the butts. Cut the four shoots that have 
 borne, so as to leave but one bud at the butt. And they 
 will then be sending out wood, while the other four v^^ill 
 be sending out fruit. And thus you go on year after year 
 for your life j for, as to the vine, it will, if well treated, 
 outlive you and your children to the third, and even 
 thirtieth generation. I think they say, that the vine at 
 Hampton Court, was planted in the reign of King 
 William. During the summer there are two things to be 
 observed, as to pruning. Each of the last years shoots 
 has thirty- two buds, and, of course, it sends out thirty* 
 two shoots with the grapes on them, for the grapes come 
 out of the two first fair buds of these shoots. So that 
 here would be an enormbus quantity of wood, if it were 
 all left till the end of summer. But, this must not be. 
 When the grapes get as big as peas, cut off the green 
 shoots that bear them, at two buds distance from the fruit. - 
 This is necessary in order to clear the vine from confusion 
 of branches, and also to keep the sap back for the supply 
 of the fruit. These new shoots, that have the bunches 
 on, must be kept tied to the trellis, or else the wind 
 would tear them off. The other thing is, to take care to 
 keep nicely tied to the bars the shoots that are to send 
 forth bearers the next year j and, if you observe any 
 little side-shoots coming out of them, to crop these off as 
 soon as they appear, leaving nothing but the clear, clean 
 shoot. It may be remarked, that the butt, as at b, when 
 it is cut off the next time, will be longer by a bud. That 
 will be SO) but, by the third year the vine will be so 
 
VI. LIST OF FHUIT8. 
 
 strong, that you may safely cut the shoots back to 
 
 within six inches of the main trunk, leaving the new 
 
 shoots to come out of it where they will j taking care to 
 
 let but one grow for the summer. If shoots start out of 
 
 the main trunk irregularly, rub them off as soon as they 
 
 appear, and never suffer your vine to have any more than 
 
 its regular number of shoots. Thus far with regard to 
 
 ihe training and pruning of vines in espalier. I have 
 
 now to speak of training against a wall; training under 
 
 glass in a green-house ; and training against a house. If 
 
 against a wall, you proceed to raise the young vine in 
 
 [precisely the same manner as before directed ; but, in 
 
 j place of carrying the trunk upright, in order to have 
 
 [ bearing shoots come out of the side of it, as in plate 8^ 
 
 you ciit it down to within two eyes of the bottom. Sup-« 
 
 pose you have got the vine. Jig. 2. plate 8. Instead of 
 
 bringing out from it four shoots of a side, bring out only 
 
 I the two bottom ones, cutting the top of the trunk off 
 
 I pretty close down to the highest of the two first shoots 
 
 I from the bottom. These two shoots may be suffered to 
 
 (, bear the first year after they come out | but these two. 
 
 1 shoots are then to be suffered to remain to form limbs 
 for the bearing shoots to go out of j and these bearing 
 j shoots are to go up the wall perpendicularly, instead of 
 ■ running horizontally, as they do on the trellis-work. All 
 the rules for cutting out the shoots alternately are the 
 same in this case as in the other. The vine might be 
 trained against the wall horizontally as against the trellis- 
 work j but it would not be so convenient j for, the two 
 horizontal limbs left at the bottom may be carried to any 
 length against a wall j so that, one vine would, in time, 
 be sufficient for a wall of considerable extent. I have 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 ^eeri such limbs, forty feet long, supplying an abundance 
 of bearing wood to cover the wall. If you choose, you 
 
 ^.v may, at every three or four yards distance, cause these 
 .bottom limbs to touch the ground, and, if pegged down 
 
 "•^^and covered with a little part of the earth, they would 
 strike root there. The upright bearing shoots should 
 be tacked to the wall in a serpentine manner, which 
 checks the flow of the sap and makes them bear better 
 all aver the vine. Under glass the training and pruning 
 is precisely the same as that against a wall : two limbs 
 running along at the bottom of the glass, and the 
 shoots coming out, pruned, and tied up in the manner 
 directed in the case of the wall. Against a house, you 
 ytamt a lofty trunk. You .carry it to the height that the 
 situation requires, and train by side-shoots, just in the 
 manner directed for the trellis in the case of the espalier. 
 A roof is only a wall lying in a sloping direction, and the 
 training and pruning are precisely those directed for the 
 wall. Such is the manner of pruning vines in what is 
 called the long-pruning ; but there is a method very dif- 
 ferent, called the short pruning, which very much re- 
 sembles the method which I have described for pruning 
 the currant-tree. Instead of alternate bearing shoots, 
 brought out of the trunk, as in the espalier form, for 
 instance, you suffer these shoots, as in plate 8. Jig, 3. to 
 remain perpetually. They send out annually side-shoots. 
 These you'cut off to within one or two eyes of the limb, 
 and, out of these little artificial spurs, come, the next year, 
 shoots to bear the fruit. The vine bears only on shoots 
 that come out of the last year's wood, and therefore, these 
 spurs would become too long in a very short time; so that, 
 you must cut them out close to the limb, at the end of a 
 
VI. 
 
 LIST OP TRtlTS. 
 
 year or two, and others will be always coming out to 
 supply their place. Whether against a wall, under glass, 
 against a house, or on a roof, you observe the sam€ 
 rule : your vine is furnished with perpetual limbs instead 
 of being annually furnished with new and long shoots. 
 Hoping that I have made this matter of training and 
 pruning vines intelligible to the reader, I have now to 
 speak of the management of the fruit, of the soil suitable 
 for vines, and of the sorts of grapes. When the grapes 
 get to be of the size of a pea, or thereabouts, they 
 should be thinned in the bunch with a sharp-pointed 
 JBcissors. More than half of them, and those the 
 smallest, of course, should be cut out, otherwise they 
 Will not be so fine ; and, in some cases, the fruit will be 
 «o closely pressed together on the bunch as to cause 
 moulding and rotting. It is supposed, and 1 believe the 
 fact, that thinning the grapes adds greatly to the weight 
 of the bunch, and certainly it heightens greatly the 
 quality of the fruit. As to the soil for grapes, it cannot 
 be too rich. The ground should be dug about the roots 
 not only in the fall and in the spring, but even in the 
 summer. The earliest grape, is what we call the black 
 July, and what the French call the noir hdtif ; the Chas- 
 telaSf which is a white grape, approaching to a yellow, is 
 also very early ; the Black Hamburgh is a fine grape and a 
 great bearer, and this is the sort of the famous Hamp- 
 ton Court vine j the White sweet-water is a very fine 
 grape 5 and these four would satisfy me j but, I shall 
 here add the Kew list of grapes, and with that list I 
 conclude this long article. Burgundy^ Black Cluster, Black 
 July, Common White Muscadine, Parsley -leaved Muscadine ; 
 these are called, in the Hortus Kewensis, wall-grapes ; 
 p 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 then, as house- grapes , come the Black Damascus, Muscat 
 of Alexandria, Royal Muscadine, Black Frankendale, Black 
 Hamburgh, Black Prince, Black Frontignac, Gritzly Frontig- 
 nac, Red Frontignac, White Frontignac, White Sweet-water, 
 Marseilles, White Nice, Syrian. 
 
 ^6. WALNUT. — The way to raise walnut-trees, is, 
 this. When the walnuts are quite ripe, make them per- 
 fectly dry and preserve them in precisely the mauner di- 
 rected for the filberd. Sow them late in February, and 
 the tree will be a foot high by the next fall. If it be to 
 stand where it is sowed, nothing more is necessary than 
 to keep the ground about it clean, c^nd to prune off the 
 side-shoots at the bottom, always leaving a tolerable head 
 until you have a clear trunk of the height that you de- 
 sire. If the tree be to be transplanted, you ought to 
 take it up in the fall after the spring of sowing it ; for it 
 has along tap-root, and will remove with great difficulty 
 if you suffer it to remain for two or three years. When 
 you take the young plant up, cut off the tap-root to j 
 within six inches of the part which met the top of the 
 ground j transplant it into a nursery j let it stand there 
 for three years, and then it will remove with a good i 
 bushey root. Keep the side-shoots pruned off in the ' 
 manner before-directed j and the head of the tree will ; 
 f^rm itself. It is said that walnut-trees should be j 
 threshed or beaten, a saying which has certainly arisen ' 
 from the want of a good reason for knocking down the ] 
 fruit, which, like nuts and filberds, should always hang i 
 ^i it drops from the tree. 
 
VI. DISEASES or PBUIT-TREES. 
 
 DISEASES AND VERMIN. 
 
 SSr. I HAVE reserved until now the remarks necessary 
 to be made upon the diseases to which fruit-trees are 
 subject j and also on the insects and other mischievous 
 living things by which they are injured. I have re- 
 served, too, until now, the observations to be made re- 
 lative to divers mischievous insects which do injury to 
 the herbaceous plants of the kitchen-garden. I shall 
 now speak of the whole under one head, which would 
 be more convenient to the reader than if the remarks 
 with regard to them had been scattered throughout the 
 book. 
 
 288. CANKER. — Apple-trees are greatly afflicted by 
 the canker, which is a rotting of the bark in particular 
 spots j producing, in time, the destruction of the branch 
 or limb. If perceived when at first coming, it may 
 sometimes be cut quite out ; and, if that cannot be done, 
 its ravages may be staid by paring off all the perished 
 bark till you come to the quick, and cutting the edges of 
 that quick very smooth with a very sharp knife, this 
 bark will grow a little again and have round edges ; the 
 place should be washed once or twice a year with soap 
 dnd water to keep out the insects, which are always en- 
 deavouring to harbour round these wounded spots. As 
 to the putting on of plaister of any kind, I have tried it 
 often, and have never found it of any use. But, observe, 
 neither a tree nor a limb is to be abandoned merely 
 because it is cankered : in many cases, the cankered 
 part of the tree bears best j and it so happens that I have 
 art apple-tree, at this time one limb of which is half cut 
 p2 
 
FRUITS. Chap 
 
 off by the canker ; that limb bears more than all the rest 
 of the tree j ami it was froni that very limb that I cut 
 the branch of beautiful fall-pippins that were exhibited 
 i.ist autumn at my shop in Fleet-street. So that, a tree i«* 
 not to be despised merely because it is cankered. The- 
 canker comes very frequently from bruises given to thci^ 
 tree by the carelessness of gardeners, or by the frictidn 
 of limbs one against another. It very frequently comes 
 from the rubbing of limbs and branches against the 
 stakes ; and this makes it so dangerous to plant great 
 trees for an orchard. However, I have seen apple-trees 
 that were old and cankered when I was a boy, and that 
 continue to bear well unto this day. It is a thing to be 
 guarded against, and to be got rid of if possible : it is 
 sometimes fatal, but by no means generally so. 
 
 289. COTTON-BLIGHT.— This disease makes its~ap- 
 ])earance like little bunches of cotton-wool stuck upon 
 the joints or along the shoots of apple-trees, which 
 leave, after they be rubbed off, little round pimples Or 
 lumps J and it does the same with regard to the roots 
 lliat it does to the limbs and the shoots. Under this 
 white stuff, there are innumerable insects, which, whea 
 squeezed by the finger, are of the colour of blood. It is 
 a very nasty thing, very pernicious to apple-trees : and 
 it also comes on the joints of vines. There is no cure 
 but rubbing the stuff off mechanically, as fast as it ap- 
 pears, and washing the place well with something strong, 
 such as tobacco-juice. The potatoe, which some people 
 look upon as so nutritious, very nearly poisons the water 
 in which it is boiled ; and an Irish gentleman once told 
 me that that water would cure the cotton blight. Rub- 
 
I 
 
 VI. DISEASES OF FRUIT-TREES. 
 
 bing the part with mercurial ointment will certainly do 
 it J but then you must get at the root as well as at the 
 limbs and the branches: if you take up a young tree 
 that has the cotton-blight, cut the nobs off from the> 
 roots, cleanse the tree perfectly well and replant it, and, 
 it is very likely the disease will not return. If it once 
 get complete possession of a large tree, the tree vvilL 
 soon become useless. 
 
 290. MILDEW, which the French call WHITE 
 BLIGHT, seizes the spring shoots of peach and nectarine 
 trees, makes them white as if dusted over with meal or 
 lime, and fixes itself on spots on the fruit. I have heard 
 of, and have seen tried, tobacco smoke, lime water, and 
 several other things as remedies, all of which I have seen 
 invariably to fail. All you can do, is, to cut off the 
 shoots and leaves that have it, and to suffer others to 
 come out. This blight sometimes comes upon apple- 
 trees. 
 r 
 
 i ^91. LICE. — Prodigious quantities of these come 
 tipon the points of the shoots of peaches, nectarines, and 
 cherries, which cause them to curl up, and to become 
 black J and, after this, generally, the branches suffer 
 greatly : the only remedy is, to cut these points off as 
 soon as you perceive them beginning to curl. You may 
 also wash the trees, or fumigate with tobacco. 
 
 292. GUM. — All stone fruit ; cherries, plums, peaches, 
 nectarines, and apricots, are liable to the gum, which 
 sometimes proceeds from injudicious pruning, and some- 
 times from the tree having but a poor root. It very 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 frequently comes after the cutting out of a luxuriant 
 branch, especially if that branch be cut pflf near to the 
 trunk and in the spring or summer, which it nevei 
 ought to be if it can be avoided. A tree will sometimes 
 gum, and cease to gum afterwards; and, though it 
 gum, it will bear. If it continue to gum, and the gum 
 appear in several parts of it at the same time, and 
 attack the tree severely, it will soon cease to produce 
 wood fit for bearing, and the sooner it is cut down 
 and thrown away, the better. 
 
 293. PEACH-BUG.— This is a thing between louse 
 and bug : it is of a green colour, and clings along 
 upon the wood of the peach trees, and of nectarines of 
 course. These are destroyed very quickly by fumigating 
 the trees with strong tobacco-smoke, or washing theiii 
 with water in which tobacco has been steeped. Jt is 
 rather difficult to fumigate against a wall ; but, at any 
 rate, the wood can be well washed with tobacco-watef. 
 These insects, however, must be destroyed by one means 
 or another j or they will spoil the crop for the year, and 
 spoil the tree too. 
 
 294. MAGGOT. — There is a maggot which comes in 
 apple-trees and pear-trees, but particularly the former, 
 just before the tree opens its blossoms. You will see the 
 young leaves that have come out curl up longwise. If 
 you open those curls, you will find enveloped in a very 
 small web, a little maggot that you can hardly clearly 
 discern with the naked eye. From this, its birth-place, 
 it creeps away into the cups of the blossoms and there 
 feeds upon the germ of the fruit j and becomes a visible 
 
Vfv'- DISEASES OF FHUIT-TREES. 
 
 mag:got a full third of an inch long, having a black-head 
 and a greenish body. When the blossoms are noi 
 abundant, and sometimes even when they are, thi« 
 wretched thing feeds upon the roots or germs of the 
 buds, as well as upon the blossoms. It enters down into 
 the heart of the bud which has just bursted out into 
 little leaves, and you will see those leaves die in the 
 month of April, just as you will see cabbage-plants or 
 lettuce-plants die when attacked by the grub or the wire- 
 worm. Of a row of lettuce-plants, you are surprised to 
 see one lopping its leaves down flat upon the ground, 
 and the rest standing bolt upright j but, if you take it 
 up, you will find, that a grub-worm or a wire-worm has 
 eaten out the heart of its root. Just in like manner does 
 this maggot destroy the buds of apple-trees ; and, as in 
 the case of a row of lettuce-plants, it, like the grub or 
 wire-worm, will, if let alone, go from bud to bud, from 
 one end of a branch to the other. The killing of the 
 buds by these maggots is one great cause of the canker 
 in apple-trees : they make a wound which descends down 
 to the very woodj I have, in numerous instances^ 
 watched the progress of the wound, and have seen it 
 turn to complete and destructive canker. As to preven* 
 tion, in this case, I am not certain of the source of the 
 maggot J but I think it proceeds from eggs deposited 
 upon the bark during the previous summer, and clinging 
 there until the spring. What 1 have done, is, to wash all 
 the limbs and stout branches of the trees well in the 
 month of March with a hard-brush, soap, and tobacco- 
 juice J and certain it is that my trees have not been in- 
 fested by these maggots since. If you find them at 
 work upon a tree, watch the flagging of the buds ; cut 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 the flagging buds out with a sharp pen-knife : you will 
 find a maggot in the heart, and will, of course, put an 
 end to its spoliations. This is another reason why 
 espaliers are better than standards : this work is easily 
 .performed upon an espalier j but, on a standard, im- 
 possible. Sometimes you see the petals of the blossoms 
 curl up J and there you find the maggot. It is better to 
 take one blossom out of the bunch at once } for, if the 
 jnaggot remain, it will destroy the whole. We very 
 often see whole bunches of blossoms, leaves and all, 
 shrivel up suddenly : the maggot has done this, and is 
 gone before you perceived the mischief. The whole of 
 standard-trees are frequently nearly stripped in this 
 way : people call it blight ; but, in general, appear to 
 know nothing of the cause. 
 
 295. BIRDS. — The way to keep birds from fruit, and> 
 indeed, from every thing else, is, to shoot them, or 
 •frighten them away, or cover over effectually with nets 
 ithe object which they covet. I have spoken occa- 
 sionally of the care to be taken in this respect j but, in 
 all cases, where birds are very fond of the thing that you 
 have, you must keep them away, or give up the cultiva- 
 tion of the thing j for it is time and labour thrown away, 
 to raise things and then let them be destroyed in this 
 manner. There is one season when to defend yourself is 
 very difficult ; I mean the spring, when the birds attack 
 the buds. There are certain buds which the sparrows 
 will destroy, just when they are sending out their fruit j 
 but the great enemies of buds are the bulfinches, the 
 chaffinches, and, above all, the greenfinches, which 
 assail the buds of plums of all sorts in a most furious 
 
VI. DISEASES OP FRUIT-TREES. 
 
 manner. They are hard driven for food at this time of 
 the year ; and they will actually strip whole branches. 
 It is, however, contended by some persons, that, after 
 all, they do no harm ; for that, there are insects in the 
 bud which they eat j and that it is not the herbage that 
 they want, but the animal, seeing that birds live upon 
 grain, and pulse, and insects, and not upon green things. 
 This is by no means true : they do live upon green things, 
 or, at least, they eat them as we see fowls eating grass, 
 during a great part of every day. I believe that these 
 little birds eat the buds, and are not at all looking after 
 insects. The wild pigeons in America live, for about a 
 month, entirely upon the buds of the sugar maple, and 
 are killed by hundreds of thousands, by persons who erect 
 bough-houses, and remain in a maple wood with guns and 
 powder and shot, for that purpose. If we open the craw 
 of one of these little birds, we find in it green stuff of 
 various descriptions, and, generally^ more or less of 
 grass, and, therefore, it is a little too much to believe, 
 that, in taking away our buds, they merely relieve us 
 from the insects that would, in time, eat us up. To 
 keep birds from buds is a difficult matter. You cannot 
 net all your trees j nor can you fire with shot amongst 
 your trees without doing a greater harm than that which 
 you wish to prevent. Birds are exceedingly cunning in 
 their generation j but, luckily for us gardeners, they do 
 not know how to distinguish between the report of a gun 
 loaded with powder and shot, and one that is only loaded n 
 with powder. Very frequent firing with powder will 
 alarm them so that they will quit the spot, or, at least, be 
 so timid as to become comparatively little mischievous. 
 p5 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 296. MICE. — Very troublesome creatures. They 
 commit their depredations by night, and must be well 
 looked after. Brick traps are the best things j for, as to 
 poisoning them, you may poison, at the same time, your 
 cat or your dog. Great vigilance, however, is required 
 to keep down mice ; but it ought to be resolutely done. 
 
 297. RATS. — If the garden be near to a house or out- 
 buildings, and especially near to a farm-yard, where dogs 
 and ferrets are not pretty constantly in motion, the rats 
 will be large sharers in the finest of the fruit that the 
 garden produces. On the walls, in the melon-bed, even 
 in the strawberry-beds, they will take away the prime of 
 the dessert. They do but taste, indeed, of each, but 
 then they are guests that one does not like to eat with. 
 Here there is absolutely no remedy other than those of 
 dogs and ferrets. I have seen a wall of grapes pretty 
 nearly cleared by rats, some farm buildings being at the 
 back side of the wall : these nasty things must, there- 
 fore, be destroyed by one means or another. 
 
 298. MOLES, — These cannot get into a garden with 
 a wall round it. If they come through or under the 
 hedge, and make their workings visible, they ought to 
 be caught without delay j for, if suffered to get to a 
 head, they do a great deal of mischief, besides the 
 ugliness which they produce. 
 
 299. ANTS. — A very pretty subject for poets, but a 
 most dismal one for gardeners j for it is one of the most 
 mischievous of all things, and the most difficult of all to 
 guard against or to destroy. It is mischievous in many 
 
VI. DISEASES OF FRUIT-TREES. 
 
 ways, and all the sorts of ants are equally mischievous. 
 Those which have their nests in little hillocks on the 
 ground j that is to say, the small ant, is the sort which 
 most frequently display their mischievous industry in 
 the gardens. I once had a melon-bed that underwent a 
 regular attack from a community of horse-ants, as the 
 country people call them ; that is to say, the largest ant 
 that we know any thing of. I know nothing but fire or 
 boiling water, or squeezing to death, that will destroy 
 ants ; and, if you pour boiling water on their nest in the 
 grass, you destroy the grass -, set fire to a nest of the great 
 ants, and you burn up the hedge or the trees, or what- 
 ever else is in the neighbourhood. As to squeezing them 
 to death, they are amongst the twigs and roots of your 
 trees and plants : they are in the blossoms, and creeping 
 all about the fruit ; so that, to destroy them in this way, 
 you must destroy that also which you wish to protect 
 against their depredations. Ants injure every thing that 
 they touch j but they are particularly mischievous with 
 regard to wall-trees : where they attack successively bud, 
 blossom, leaf, and fruit. There is no method of keeping 
 them from the wall, lliey may be kept from mounting 
 espaliers by putting tar round the stem of the tree, and 
 round the stakes that the limbs are tied to j but there is 
 no keeping them from the wall, unless by killing them. 
 Mr. Forsyth recommended to make the ground very 
 smooth near the bottom of the tree that they attacked j 
 then to make smooth holes with a sharp-pointed stake or 
 iron bar, down into which, as he says, they will go ; and 
 then he recommends to pour water into these holes, and 
 idrown them. Monsieur db Comble recommends the 
 laying of sheep's trotters or cow-heels with the skin on. 
 
FRUITS. Chap, 
 
 near the attacked tree, and that, when these be well 
 covered with ants, to plunge them into a bucket of 
 water, drown the ants, then put the sheep's trotters near 
 the tree again to wait for another cargo. By these 
 means something may be done, to be surej but, the true 
 way is, to find out the nest from which they come 3 for 
 they are extremely scrupulous in this respect 3 it is only 
 one tribe that makes its attack upon one and the same 
 object. If you look attentively you will find that, in the 
 morning, very early, they all come in the same direction-, 
 and that they go in exactly the same way back at night. 
 Trace them to their fortress j and, when it is quite 
 night, treat them to a bucket of water that is as nearly 
 upon the boil as possible. You kill the whole tribe. 
 When my melon -beds were attacked by the horse-ants, I 
 set to work to discover whence they came. I traced 
 them along a brick wall. Then out of the garden between 
 the door-frame and the wall. Then along at the bottom 
 of the edge of the wall on the side of a lawn ; then, 
 after having made an angle along the wall, going, as I 
 thought, over it into a meadow on the other side. Every 
 corner of hedge and ditch of that meadow was examined 
 to discover the nest, but in vain. Looking back to the 
 spot where I thought they went over the wall, we dis- 
 covered that they turned along the top of the wall, 
 and went under the roof of a summer-house that was 
 ceiled below : having lifted up a tile, there we saw 
 bushels of ants, with little sticks and straws, the result 
 of years of their detestable industry. A copper of water 
 was made to boil against the evening. It was taken to 
 the spot in a boiling state as nearly as possible 3 every 
 thing was prepared for the purpose, and by midnight. 
 
Vr. DISEASES OF FRUIT-TREES. 
 
 scarcely a handful of them were left alive ; and my melon 
 bed, which I was actually upon the point of giving up as 
 lost, was suflFered to proceed unmolested. The greatest 
 care, therefore, ought to be taken, especially if grass 
 ground be near the garden, to hunt out ants' nests, and 
 to destroy them. 
 
 300. SPIDER. — I do not know that the common spider 
 does any harm to the gardener, and I know that it 
 frequently does good by killing the flies j but there is a 
 red spider which is very mischievous to vines, especially 
 when under glass. If attended to, however, they are 
 easily destroyed, and the destruction of them should not 
 be neglected. Plentifully washing of the trees with 
 water is the great remedy, and, in hot-houses, syringes 
 are made use of for this purpose. 
 
 SOI. CATERPILLAR.— Very few more mischievous 
 creatures than this infest the gardens. In the first place, 
 it is a most destructive enemy of fruit-trees, apples, 
 pears, plums, quinces and medlars, but particularly apples 
 and plums are literally flayed alive by this nasty insect. 
 Hundreds of trees together are, early in the month of 
 June, very frequently completely stripped of every leaf 
 by the caterpillars. Of their progenitors I know 
 nothing j but I know that they make their first ap- 
 pearance in a web formed into the shape of a bag or sort 
 of wallet attached to the branches of trees. And this 
 bag is a small thing at first ; but it grows larger and 
 larger as the caterpillars within it increase in size. If 
 you open one of these bags, a goodly tribe glads your 
 sight J and, if you leave the bag till the caterpillars grow 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 too big for it and open it themselves, they sally forth in 
 every direction, and strip the tree of its leaves. Preven- 
 tion is not, however, in this case, very difficult. If they 
 come on espaliers, you pick the bag off as soon as you 
 perceive it, and crush it under your foot. If they come 
 on standard-trees, you must take a ladder 5 but a better 
 way is, to load a gun with powder, and to blow the bags 
 from the trees. If once they escape from the bag and go 
 on their travels, you have no remedy. If you shake the 
 tree and bring part of them to the ground, they crawl up 
 again. Lime has no effect upon them 3 and your only 
 hope is, that your other enemies, the sparrows, will lend 
 their assistance in delivering you from these) and I do 
 verily believe, that, were it not for the sparrows, and 
 other birds, these insects would make it next to im- 
 possible to cultivate gardens in England. They have no 
 slugs and snails in America -, but caterpillars they have, 
 and they sometimes strip an orchard of every one of its 
 leaves. There are caterpillars which infest the cab- 
 bages and the Swedish turnip, and some other herbaceous 
 plants. These manifestly proceed from the butterfly : 
 but, unfortunately, they do not make their appearance in 
 little pockets or bags ; but you make the first discovery 
 of the honour of the visit that they are paying you by 
 perceiving their gnawings upon the edgings of the leaves 
 of the plants. Let them alone for a little while, and they 
 will go from cabbage to cabbage until there is not a bit 
 of leaf left in the whole patch. They leave you the 
 skeleton of a cabbage, taking away all the flesh, and 
 leaving all the bones ; that is to say, the stalk of the 
 cabbage r.nd the ribs of the leaves. These are most 
 mischievous things j they are wholly insensible to the 
 
VI. DISEASES OF FRUIT-TREES. 
 
 powers of lime : in heat they delight ; wet will not 
 injure them 3 frost is their only destroyer 3 and many a 
 time have I prayed for winter in order to see an end of 
 the caterpillars. In order to mitigate the mischief, and, 
 indeed, in a great measure to put a stop to it, look nar- 
 rowly among your plants of the cabbage kind about the 
 middle of the summer. If you see the butterflies busy, 
 expect their followers in due time. Watch the plants r 
 as soon as you see one attacked, take it entirely up, 
 shake the caterpillars from it upon the ground, put them 
 to death with your foot, and carry the plant away to the 
 pigs. 'Tis very rarely that the whole or any consfderable 
 part of a piece of cabbages is attacked at once j and, 
 therefore, you may, in some measure, guard against the 
 mischiefs of thU pernicious insect of which there are 
 several sorts, some green, some brown, some smooth, 
 some hairy, and all equally mischievous. 
 
 30^. SNAIL. — From the curious construction of the 
 snail, it is known to every body in town as well as 
 country. It is very mischievous, and especially amongst 
 fruit-trees, where it annoys the fruit, as well as the leaf, 
 but particularly the fruit. It is a great enemy of the 
 apricot and the plum, both of which it will eat whether 
 in the green or in the ripe state. It is very mischievous 
 amongst the plants in the garden in general ; but its 
 size and its habits and manners makes it not difficult to 
 destroy. Its places of harbour are, behind the trunks or 
 big limbs of wall-trees, in a garden, or, round the butts 
 of the trees that form the hedge of the outside of the 
 garden. Snails lie in such places all the winter long, and 
 never stir till they are warmed into life in the spring. 
 Many persons have kept snails for a year or more nailed 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 up in a box, and have found them just as lively after- 
 wards as if they had never fasted at all. In winter time, 
 in dry and frosty weather, snails should be routed out 
 from all their fastnesses, and destroyed. This is the 
 most effectual way of guarding against their depreda- 
 tions ; for, when the leaves come out, they have shelter, 
 they are exceedingly cunning in availing themselves of 
 that shelter, but though' you finally discover and kill 
 them, they spoil your fruit first. 
 
 303. SLUG. — This is a snail without a shell, and like 
 the snail, likes neither sun nor frost. Some slugs are 
 black, others whitish, others yellow. The great black 
 slug and the yellow slug live chiefly upon worms, and do 
 not touch plants of any kind. The mischievous thing is 
 the little slug that hides itself in the ground or under 
 grass or leaves, and that comes out in the night, or in 
 the rain, and eats the garden plants of almost every de- 
 scription more or less, and sometimes, pretty nearly 
 clears a field of wheat. Slugs cannot live under the 
 shining sun, nor can they move about much except when 
 the ground is wet or riioist from dew or rain : then it is 
 that they come forth and make up for lost time. They 
 are propagated amongst weeds and grass, and any thing 
 that affords constant shade and tranquillity. A garden 
 constantly clean is, therefore, the most effectual preven- 
 tion } but if they come, they must absolutely be killed, 
 or you must give up your crop. The way to kill them is 
 this. Take hot lime, in a powdered state, put it into a 
 coarsish bagj and, after night- fall, or before sun-rise, 
 in the dew, or on the moist ground, go over their haunts, 
 shake the bag and let the fine powder fall upon the 
 ground ; some little particle will fall upon every slug 
 
yi, Diseases op fruit-tree^; 
 
 that is abroad ; and every slug that is touched with the 
 lime will die. If rain come it will destroy the power of 
 the lime, and then it will be necessary, perhaps, for you 
 to repeat the remedy several different times. 
 
 304. ROOK- WORM. — This is an underground 
 enemy ; a miner and sapper. It is a short worm or long 
 maggot, as big round as a thick goose-quill, body white, 
 and head partly red and partly black. It is a fact, I 
 suppose, that the May-bug, or chafer, comes from this 
 worm. The French call it the ver hanneton, which cor- 
 roborates that opinion. It attacks the roots of plants, 
 and will even attack the roots of trees, and will no w- 
 and-then destroy some young trees. It will clear a 
 patch of cabbages in a very short time. It is under- 
 ground, and, therefore, not to be guarded against -, but 
 a garden may very goon be ridded of it. First, kill every 
 one that you meet with in digging -, next, the moment 
 you see a plant begin to flag, dig it up and take up the 
 worm. If the worm be on its travels, you are sure that 
 it is gone towards the next adjoining plant, to the right 
 or to the left. Pursue it both ways with the spade, and 
 ten to one but you overtake it. A little perseverance in 
 this way will soon clear a garden of the rook-worm j^ 
 but as to our fields, their crops would be absolutely de- 
 voured, in many cases j or, rather, the plants would be 
 destroyed, were it not for the rooks, which are amongst 
 the most useful of the animals in this country ; and really 
 it is too hard to grudge them a little of the corn when 
 they have so largely contributed towards bringing the 
 ^hole of it to perfection. 
 
 ,,^05. BLACK GRUB.— It should be called the brown 
 
FRUITS. Chap. 
 
 grub, for it is not black. In its workings, it is half way 
 between a rook-worm and a caterpillar. It lies snugly 
 under the ground near the roots of the plant in the day-* 
 tirae, and comes up at night, eats the plant off at the 
 stem, or eats out its heart. This is a most perverse as 
 well as a most pernicious thing : it is not content, like 
 the caterpillar, the snail, or the slug, to feed upon the 
 leaves ; but it must needs bite out the heart, or just cut 
 oflF the plant at the bottom. Lime has no power over 
 it : nothing will keep it oflF: no means but taking it by 
 the hand : in a garden this may be done, by examining a 
 little about the ground just round the stem of every 
 plant ; for as soon as it has destroyed one plant, it gets 
 ready for another for the next night's work. In a gar- 
 den, this thing may be destroyed, or kept down j but, in 
 a field it is impossible, and many a field has had its crop 
 almost totally destroyed by this grub. 
 
 306. WIRE-WORM.-— This is a little yellow worm, 
 which, at full growth, is about an inch long; and it is 
 called wire-worm because it is very tough and difficult to 
 pinch asunder. It is bred in grass-land, and in old tufts of 
 grass in arable land. A piece of land digged or ploughed 
 up from a meadow, or grass-field, will, for a year or two, 
 be full of these worms, which carry off whole fields of 
 wheat sometimes. In gardens they are very destructive. 
 They attack tender- rooted plants, make a hole on one 
 side of the tap-root, and work their way upwards till 
 they come to the heart. When they have done that, they 
 go to another plant, and so on. You perceive when 
 they are at work, by the plant dropping its leaves ; and 
 the only remedy is, to watch the plants narrowly, and, as 
 $oon as you perceive the tips of the leaves beginning -to 
 
VI. DISEASES OF FRUIT-TREES. 
 
 flag, to take it up, and destroy the worms. They are 
 particularly fond of lettuces that have been transplanted 4 
 and I have had whole rows of lettucies destroyed by 
 these wormSj in spite of every precaution. 
 
 307. WOOD-LOUSE.— Is a little grey-coloured in- 
 sect of a flat shape, and about twice as long as it is 
 broad. When you touch it, or when it sees itself in 
 danger, it forms itself into a ball, and very much re^ 
 sembles a Dutch cheese, and is, by the children in the 
 country, called the cheese-bob. Its name of wood-louse 
 comes from its habit of living and breeding in rotten 
 wood, and under boards or slabs that are lying upon the 
 ground j but it also haunts very much the cracks in 
 bricks, and the holes in the joints of walls. It feeds 
 upon buds and blossoms, and also upon the fruit itself. 
 When it gets into hot-beds, it hides round the edge of 
 the frame, and does a great deal of mischief to the plants, 
 especially when they are young. Cabbage -leaves or 
 lettuce-leaves laid in a hot-bed or against the edge of the 
 wall, vsrill invite them to take shelter as a place of re- 
 treat for the day, all the dilapidations being committed 
 in the night. You lift the leaves in the day-time and 
 kill them 3 and, further, as to walls, the great remedy is 
 to keep all the joints well pointed, and to fill up any 
 cracks that there may be in the bricks. 
 
 308. EAR- WIG. — This is a most pernicious msect, 
 vvhich feeds on flowers and on fruit, and which, if it con- 
 gregated like the ant, would actually destroy every 
 thing of this sort. Its favourite flowers are those of the 
 carnation kind. To protect very curious plants against 
 
fRti'rS. Chap. 
 
 tliem, the florists put their stages or legs, and surround 
 each leg with a circle of water contained in a dish which 
 is so constructed as to admit the leg through the middle 
 of it, seeing that the ear-wig is no swimmer. Others 
 make little things of paper like extinguishers, and put 
 ihem on the tops of the sticks to which the carnation - 
 stalks are tied. The ear-wigs commit their depredations 
 in the night, and they find these extinguishers most de- 
 lightful retreats from the angry eye of man and from 
 the burning rays of the sun. Take off the extinguishers, 
 however, in the morning, give them a rap over a basin 
 of water, and the enjoyments of the ear-wigs are put an 
 end to at once. They are very nasty things in fruit of 
 the stone kind, and particularly the apricot. They make 
 a way in at the foot- stalk of the fruit, get to the stone 
 and live there day and night -, so that, when you open a 
 fine apricot, you frequently find its fine juice half- 
 poisoned by three or four of these nasty insects. As 
 soon, therefore, as the wall-fruit begins to change its 
 colour, the tree should be w^ell furnished with extin- 
 guishers made of cartridge-paper, and able t© resist a 
 shower. By great attention in this way you destroy 
 them all before the fruit be ripe enough for them to 
 enter. But, one great protection against all these creep- 
 ing things, is, to stir the ground very frequently along 
 the foot of the wall. That is their great place of resort j 
 and frequent stirring and making the ground very fine, 
 disturbs the peace of their numerous families, gives them 
 tTouble, makes them uneasy, and finally harrasses them 
 to death. 
 
 309. WASFS. — These are enemies of another sort. 
 
b 
 
 DISEASES OF FRUIT-TREES. 
 
 and, in some years, most troublesome they are. They 
 fix upon the finest fruit, and, in some seasons, long 
 before it be ripe. They will eat a green gage plum to a 
 shell ; and, while they spoil your fruit, they will not 
 scruple to sting you if you come to interrupt their en- 
 joyment. The first thing to do, is, to destroy all the 
 wasps' nests that you can find any where in the neigh- 
 bourhood. These nests are generally in banks. Dis- 
 cover the nest in the day-time, open it with a spade at 
 night, and pour in boiling- water. There is a little 
 bird, called the red-start, that destroys the wasps j but 
 boys are their great enemies ; and about sixpence a nest 
 will keep any neighbourhood pretty clear of wasps. But, 
 the great remedy, is, to kill them when they come to 
 the tree, and that is done in this way : you fill a pretty 
 large phial half full of beer mixed with brown sugar : 
 the wasps attracted by this, go down into the phial and 
 never come out again. The phials must be emptied every 
 day, if any thing like full, and put up again with fresh 
 sugar and beer. A string is tied round the neck of the 
 phial, which is thus fastened round some part of the tree. 
 There must, however, be a considerable number of these 
 phials attached to every tree. 
 
 310. FLIES. — Great flies, like the flesh-flies, feed 
 upon all the softer fruits j and even upon apples and 
 pears. They are destroyed or kept down precisely in the 
 manner directed for the wasps. Some persons, in order 
 to preserve fine pears, cover them over with bunting, a 
 piece of which they tie completely over each pear : this 
 is a very troublesome, but a very effectual, method. 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDEN'S. CuAP- 
 
 ^«^ CHAPTER VII. 
 
 The formation of Shrubberies and Flower Gardens ; and the 
 Propagation and Cultivation of the several sorts of Shrubs 
 and Flowers. 
 
 '^'^11. On this part of my subject it is not agreeable to 
 my plan to be very minute^ except as to the several 
 kinds of shrubs and flowers, the lists of which I shall 
 make as complete as I can : it is not for the use of 
 florists that I pretend to write ; but for the use of per- 
 sons who have the means of forming pretty gardens, and 
 who have a taste for making use of these means j a taste 
 which, I am sorry to say, has been declining in England 
 for a great many years. 
 
 SHRUBBERIES. 
 
 312, As to the form of shrubberies, or pleasure 
 grounds, that must greatly depend upon adventitious cir- 
 cumstances so various that particular directions must be 
 inapplicable in nine cases out of ten. There are some 
 things, however, which are general to all situations, and, 
 with l-espect to these, I shall offer my opinion. Shrub- 
 beries should be so planted, if they be of any consi- 
 derable depth, as for the tallest trees to be at the back. 
 
h 
 
 SHRUBBERIE** rjia««l?«i: -l 
 
 and the lowest in front : if one could have one's will, 
 ftne would go, by slow degrees, from a dwarf Kalmia to 
 II Catalpa or a Horse-chesnut. Such a slope, however, 
 would require the depth of a mile j and, therefore, that 
 is out of the question. If the shrubbery be of narrow 
 space, the best way is to have no very tall shrubs at all, 
 and to be content with an outside border of lilacs or 
 laurels. The walks, to be beautiful and convenient, 
 should be of gravel of a deep yellow, well-sifted and laid 
 down in the substantial manner directed for the walks of 
 the kitchen-garden. Such walks cannot be kept in neat 
 order without box edgings j and every thing relating to 
 box and to edgings has been said in" Chapter II. relative 
 to the walks of the kitchen-garden. 
 
 . 313. Gravel walks are not to be kept in neat order 
 without being broken up once a year j and that once 
 ought to be about the middle of the month of May. 
 They are broken up with a pick-axe, newly raked over, 
 and rolled with a stone roller immediately after the raking j 
 and not the whole walk at once j but a bit at a time, so 
 that the top be not dry when the roller comes upon it : 
 for, if it be, it will not bind. So nice a matter is this, 
 that, if a part be prepared for rolling, and if the hands be 
 called off to dinner before it be rolled, mats are laid on 
 to shade it from the sun until their return to work. This 
 is a matter of the greatest nicety : a very good eye is re- 
 quired in those who rake previous to the rolling, and the 
 rollers must *have a very steady hand, or there will be 
 unevenness in the walk, which, when properly laid, is 
 certainly one of the most beautiful objects in the world. 
 If proper care have been taken in laying the foundation 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. CHAP* 
 
 of the walk, few or no weeds vvill come even on its edges 5 
 but, if they should they must be eradicated as soon as 
 they appear. Some leaves will fall even in summer, and 
 the walk must be swept with a soft broom once in tbe 
 week, at least. 
 
 314. But grass is another great ornament, and, per- 
 haps, if kept in neat order, the greatest of all. If grass 
 be about to be laid down, the ground should be well pre- 
 pared : if too poor to keep the grass fresh through a hot 
 Summer, it should be made richer, and always deeply 
 moved. The next thing is, to keep the ground, whether 
 on the sides of terraces, on a slope, or on a level, per- 
 fectly smooth and even on the surface. To sow grass is 
 not the way to have line grass plats ; but to cut the turf 
 from a common or from some very ancient and closely- 
 pressed pasture where the herbage is fine. From our 
 finest Downs, or from spots in our Commons, the turf is 
 generally taken ; and, short grass, as the gardeners call 
 it, is seen in perfection, I believe, no where but in Eng- 
 land. The old Duke of Orleans, shewing sir Federick 
 Edex his gardens at Chantilly, coming to a grass-plat, 
 said, here is something that you will like, at any rate j 
 and then he told him that the turf of which the plat wad 
 formed was actually imported from England, and cut 
 upon Epsom Down. The grass cut with a turfing-iron 
 made for the purpose, is rolled up, just like a piece of 
 cloth, green-sward inwards, the strips are cut by a line : 
 and cut into pieces of from two to four feet long. These 
 are laid down in the fall of the year on the place where 
 they are to grow : they are placed and pressed up very 
 closely together, being well beaten down with the back 
 
VII. BHRUBBERIES. 
 
 of the spade as the workman proceeds j and when the- 
 whole is laid, a roller of iron or of stone, of sufficient 
 weight, is passed over the plat. During the next winter,^ 
 care must be taken to roll again when the ground is in a 
 dry state, after every frost. In the month of April, it 
 will be necessary to begin to mow -, for the grass will 
 grow very well. Grass-plats are the greatest beauties of 
 pleasure grounds if well managed j but, unless you be' 
 resolved not to spare the necessary expense for this pur- 
 pose 3 if you think that you cannot have the perseverance 
 to prevent your plat from becoming a sort of half mea- 
 dow at certain times, the best way is not to attempt the 
 thing at all. During the "month of May, grass must be 
 mowed once a week. From the first of June, to the 
 middle of July, and especially if the weather be wet, 
 twice a week may be necessary ; or, one mowing and one 
 swarding or poling, and sweeping. The mower can 
 operate only in the dew : he must be at his work by day- 
 light, and the grass must be swept up before it be dry. 
 It is the general practice to mow every Saturday morn- 
 ing, and to pole or sward the grass in the middle of the 
 week, to knock or cut oflF the heads of the daisies, and 
 to take away the castings of the worms, which are very 
 troublesome in the greater part of grass-plats. Where 
 the thing is well done, the worm-casts are rubbed ofiF by 
 a pole or rod the evening before the mowing is per- 
 formed, otherwise they interrupt the progress of the 
 scythe and take off its edge. A good short-grass mower 
 is a really able workman 3 and, if the plat have a good 
 bottom, he will leave it very nearly as smooth and as 
 even as the piece of green cloth which covers the table 
 on which I am writing : it is quite surprising how close 
 
 a 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. Cl^P. 
 
 a scythe will go if in a hand that knows how to whet it> 
 and use it. If, however, you do not resolve to have the 
 thing done in this manner, it is much better not to at- 
 tempt it at all. The decay of gardening in England in this 
 respect is quite surprising. 
 
 315. It is very much the fashion to have clumps of 
 shrubs, or independent shrubs, upon grass-plats : people 
 must follow their own taste j but, in my oj^ion, nothing 
 is so beautiful as a clear carpet of green, surrounded with 
 suitable shrubs and flowers, separated from it by walks 
 of beautiful gravel. The edges of grass, whether against 
 walks or against shrubberies, are sure to grow out, and 
 ought, therefore, to be kept in by trimming or paring off 
 very frequently j for the whole ought to be as smooth as 
 a piece of cloth. If thistles or dandelions, or even 
 daisies, come amongst the grass, the mowing of them off 
 is not enough, for each will make a circle round the 
 crown of its root and will overpower the grass. This, 
 however, is easily cured by cutting these roots off deeply 
 with a knife, and pulling them up. This done during 
 two summers successively, will destroy the dandelions 
 and the thistles -j and, as to the daisies, which have a 
 shallow root, they may easily be kept down, if not extir- 
 pated. 
 
 316. In the fall of the year, all shrubberies (in the 
 month of November) should be digged completely with 
 a fork : all suckers should be taken away, all dead wood 
 taken out : all leaves carried off or digged in, and better 
 carried off than digged in ; for if digged in, they make 
 the ground hollow, and harbour slugs and other vermin. 
 
VII. SHRUBBERIES. 
 
 The ground should be made smooth, therefore, when it 
 is digged : all hares and rabbits kept out, for they are 
 very mischievous in shrubberies, barking during the 
 winter many of the trees of the most valuable kind. 
 During the summer, there should be two or three hoeings 
 to prevent weeds from growing, and a nice raking once 
 a week to take up any leaves that may have fallen j for 
 no trees or flowers will be seen to advantage unless they 
 stand upon a spot that is in neat order. Shrtibs should 
 not be too much crowded by any means j it cramps 
 them in their growth, makes their shoots feebleT makes 
 their bloom imperfect, and they hide one another : a' 
 shrubbery should not be a mass of indistinguishable 
 parts ; but an assemblage of objects each clearly dis- 
 tinguished from the other. The distribution should be 
 such as to insure bloom in every season that bloom can 
 be had j and, though shade is in some cases desirable, 
 flowering shrubs, to be beautiful, must not be shaded, 
 except in instances so few as not to warrant the suppo- 
 sition that there is ever to be a departure from the 
 general rule. 
 
 317. If there be water, every eye tells you that it 
 ought to be bordered by grass ; or, if of larger dimen- 
 sions, by trees the boughs of which touch its very edge : 
 bare ground and water do not suit at all. It was formerly 
 the fashion to have a sort of canal, with broad grass 
 walks on the sides, and with the water coming up 
 to within a few inches of the closely shaven grass -, 
 and certainly few things were more beautiful than these 
 Sir William Temple had one of his own constructing' 
 in his gardens at Moor Park. On the outsides of the 
 q2 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP, 
 
 grass-walks were borders of beautiful flowers. I have 
 stood for hours to look at this canal, which the good- 
 natured manners of those days had led the proprietor to 
 make an opening in the outer wall in order that his 
 neighbours might enjoy the sight as well as himself j 1 
 have stood for hours, when a little boy, looking at this 
 (^ject ; I have travelled far since, and have seen a great 
 deal J but I have never seen any thing of the gardening 
 kind so beautiful in the whole course of my life. 
 
 ' 318, The present taste is on the side of irregularity : 
 straight walks, straight pieces of water, straight rows of 
 trees, seem all to be out of fashion j but, it is also true 
 that neatness ; that really fine shrubberies and flower- 
 gardens, have gone out of fashion at the same time. 
 People, however, must follow their own tastes in these 
 respects -, and it is useless to recommend this or that 
 manner of laying out a piece of ground. I proceed, 
 therefore, to speak of the propagation and management 
 of shrubs, in the first place j and shall then give a list of 
 the several shrubs, mentioning under each name any 
 thing worthy of particular attention. 
 
 SHRUBS. 
 
 319. Shrubs are propagated in just the same way that 
 fruit-trees are, by cuttings, by slips, by layers, by graft- 
 ing and budding in some instances, and, in every instance, 
 they may be propagated by seed, and that, too, without 
 the s^me inconvenience that Qcciirs in the case of fruit- 
 
VII. LIST OP SHRUBS. 
 
 trees ; because I know no instance of a shrub the seed 
 of which will not bear a flower like that of the parent 
 tree, though I am not sure that this is the case in every 
 instance. As often as they can be raised from seed, that 
 is the best, though in some instances the slowest way. 
 Cuttings and layers, and the other methods of grafting 
 and budding, do not produce a plant so vigorous and so 
 healthy as if raised from seed} and, though a great 
 number of shrubs are propagated from suckers, these 
 suckers have all the disadvantages which was mentioned 
 when speaking of the propagation of fruit-trees. They 
 send out suckers again, and, in a few years, if left alone, 
 fill the whole ground with them. This is very con- 
 , spicuous in the case of the lilac, which is always raised 
 from suckers, but which may easily be raised from seed. 
 , I now proceed to give a list of the shrubs in alphabetical 
 . order, with a short description attached to each. 
 
 LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 320. ACACIA, the ROSE.— Latin, Robinia Hispida.— 
 French, Robinia-Rose. — A shrub from North America, 
 where it grows to fifteen or twenty feet high j and, in 
 •June, and sometimes again in July and August, blows a 
 rose-coloured flower hanging like bunches of grapes. 
 Tlie leaves are larger and more rounded than those of 
 the common acacia, or locust, but otherwise are just like 
 them. The branches are covered with little prickles, 
 when of the first and second year : afterwards these fall 
 qS, but this quality has given the species its name of 
 hispida, which means hairy. It is not altogether elegant 
 
SHRUBBERJfES AUD FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 in its form/ hut the beauty of its young branches, its 
 luxuriant leaves/and, above all, its delicate and abundant 
 jflovvers, make it one of the most desirable and esteemed 
 shrubs either for the shrubbery, border, or parterre j aiid 
 the facility of procuring and cultivating it is an ad- 
 ditional recommendation. Grafton the common acacia, 
 in just the same manner that you graft apples or pears 
 (see par. 209, for tongue-grafting), and, if you make any 
 difference at all, graft nearer to the ground than is there 
 recommended j and draw the earth up with a hoe about 
 . the clay that you wrap round the grafted plant, and this 
 will keep up a moistness that renders the operation 
 more surely successful. The plants will flower the first 
 year, but, unless they are in a very sheltered situation, 
 they should have stakes driven in alongside of them, and 
 should be tied to these, for they are exceedingly brittle, 
 and would be blown to pieces by one high wind, without 
 this precaution. The flowers come on the same year's 
 wood, therefore keep your plants shortened every year, 
 if you wish them to flower low down -, but, if you have 
 them on lawns, or buried at all in the shrubbery, let 
 them have their way, only now-and-then cutting out dead 
 wood or broken limbs. It is perfectly hardy, and any 
 soil almost suits it, though, like most other things, it 
 flourishes most in the finest soil. The SaiooTn-TREE 
 Acacia — Lat. Mimosa Julibrissin—Fr, Acacie arbre de sole, is 
 a green-house shrub. It is not ranked by the botanists 
 with the preceding plant, but I put them together as 
 acacias, meaning to have done with that genus of plants 
 when I have finished this paragraph. This plant is a 
 native of the Levant, where it becomes a tree of thirty 
 feet high, blows a rose-coloured flower in August. It is 
 
VII. LIST OF SHRUBlfe. 
 
 propagated either by sowing the seeds, or by laying j 
 
 ^' and, in cultivation, it requires a fresh and rather light 
 
 mould J and, if put in the open ground, should be very 
 
 carefully protected from frosts and cold winds.- 
 
 Sponge tree Acacia Lat. Mimosa farnesiana—Fr, VAca- 
 
 cie de Farnese, is also a green-house plant, but is rather 
 less hardy than the preceding. It comes from Saint 
 Domingo, where it grows to about fifteen feet high. Its 
 wood is white and hard, and its branches thorny j its 
 leaves are small, and shut up at the decline of the sun, 
 as do those of several of the acacias, and in August it 
 blows a small head of yellow and sweet-scented flowers. 
 
 Propagated in the same manner as the last. Pseudo- 
 
 AcAciA, see Locust. 
 
 321. ALMOND, common dwarf, — Lat. Amygdalus nana. 
 — Fr. Amandier nain. — A hardy tree, originally from 
 Russia, growing about three feet high, and blowing a 
 pink flower in March and April. Propagated by sowing 
 in a nursery, or where they are to stay 5 but the best 
 sorts are obtained by grafting either on the common 
 
 almond, or on the plum tree. Silver-leaved Almond, 
 
 Lat. A. argentea—Fr. A. sating, is a taller sort, from the 
 Levant, growing eight or ten feet high, blowing rose- 
 coloured flowers in April, and having leaves covered on 
 
 both sides with a kind of down, of a silver colour.- 
 
 Double Dwarf Almond, hat. A. pumila — Fr. A. d. fleurs 
 doubles, is a third sort, a smaller tree than the last, but 
 with remarkably double flowers of a pale rose colour, 
 appearing in May and often again in September. All 
 these trees are cultivated in the same simple manner. 
 They are hardy, and very handsome when in flower. 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChaP. 
 
 though their not bearing leaves and flowers at the same 
 
 time, is a remarkable illustration of how much flowers 
 . borrow effect from foliage. Propagate by grafting on 
 
 the bitter almond, or on plum-stocks, and give any 
 , situation and almost any soil. Cut out dead wood when it 
 
 occurs, and that will be all the pruning necessary to 
 
 these plants. 
 
 322. ALL-SPICE, Carolina. ~~Lat. Calycanthus Floridus, 
 —Fr. Calycanthe de la Florlde. — A hardy and exceedingly 
 odoriferous shrub of Carolina, eight feet high, and 
 
 blows a ruddy brown flower from May to August. 
 
 Fruitful Calycanthus. — Lat. C. fer tills. — Fr. C. fertile. 
 — A hardy shrub of North America, three or four feet 
 high, and blows a reddish brown flower from May to 
 August. Both sorts propagated by layers ; but, as they 
 take root with difficulty, it is best not to remove them 
 until the third year It likes a deep and fresh soil, or 
 still better, heath-mould ; and should not be quite ex- 
 posed to the sun. If propagated from seed, it should 
 have artificial heat to bring it up, otherwise it lifes two 
 years in the ground. 
 
 323. ALTHEA FRUTEX.— hat. Hibiscus S?jriacus.—Fr. 
 Keimie des Jardins. — A beautiful shrub. A native of Syria, 
 the Levant, and North America, and of which there are 
 four varieties, the red, the purple, the white, and the striped. 
 It is a hardy late plant, coming into leaf late in June, 
 and blowing throughout August and September. The 
 flower comes at the side of the last year's wood as 
 well as on the present year's wood 3 and its form is 
 very much that of the Lavetera. It grows to eight or 
 ten feet high, generally, in America, and will grow* quite 
 
VII. LIST OP SHRUBS. 
 
 as high here. Indeed, there is one now before the door 
 of the farm-house at the Duke of Devonshire's estate at 
 Chiswick that is full twelve feet high, and that blows re- 
 gularly every year. It ripens its seed here in an ordi- 
 narily good summer, and, though generally propagated 
 from cuttings or layers, is far finer when propagated 
 from the seed, which comes up the first year, and will 
 do well even when sown in the open ground. The 
 young plants make a late shoot in the fall of the year, 
 which, if frosts come early, will be pinched by them, but 
 you can cut down below this in the next spring, and your 
 plant is but the finer for it. It is not difficult to please 
 as to soil. 
 
 S^4. ANDROMEDA the Marsh.— Lat. Andromeda poly- 
 folia. — Fr. AndromMe d' Europe. — A heath about one foot 
 high, which blows a rose-coloured flower in May. It 
 grows well in any soil, but prefers shade, and earth which 
 is light, nourishing, and easy to penetrate. Propagated 
 either by suckers or by dividing the roots, and does very 
 well after transplanting, for which February or March is 
 a better time than the autumn. When raised from seeds, 
 sow in pots under glass j use a peat soil and cover the 
 seeds very lightly over 3 and put them in fresh pots when 
 they are an inch or two high, placing them at such dis- 
 tances from each other as shall suffer them to grow 
 strong. 
 
 3^5. ANTH YLLIS the silvery, or Jupiter s heard.-h-dt.'An- 
 thyllis harbaJovis.-Fr. Anthillide argentf,-A shrub of Pro- 
 vence and the island of Corsica, which grows four or five feet 
 high, and blows a pale yellow flower in April and May. Pro- 
 06 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 pagated by layers, cuttings, suckers, or seed sowed under 
 a frame. Likes rich earth, and is a green-house plant. 
 
 -- 3^6. ARBUTUS, or Strawberry -tree. —L^t. Arbutu^ 
 unedo. — Fr. Arbousier unedo. — A large evergreen shrub^ 
 and a native of Ireland, which blows in September and 
 October. The flower is of a yellowish white, or red. It 
 bears a fruit very much resembling the strawberry. Pro- 
 pagated by layers, made in February, of the beginning of 
 March ; also by seed, sown immediately after it is ripe, 
 in pots of lightish earth, which should be exposed to the 
 ^outh-east till the seed comes up. When the plants are 
 four or five feet high, they are planted in small pots, and 
 'put into a house during the winter till they are strong 
 enough to put in the open earth. It is pecuharly suited 
 to lawns and shrubberies, where it makes a good show, 
 
 and grows to the height of ten or fifteen feet. An- 
 
 DRACHNE Arbutus is another species, from the Levant. 
 It has larger flowers of a deep red, but it is not so hardy, 
 and, if planted in the open ground, must be secured 
 against frosts. 
 
 . -' :> 39S ffioi'i // ,aiRtiiasi snb itBdi pmii taJlo' 
 
 327. AZALEA, the white flowered. — Lat. Azalea viscosa. 
 — Fr. Azalea visqueux. — A pretty and hardy shrub from 
 North America, about three feet high, and blowing a 
 
 white flower in June and July. Red-flowered. — Lat. 
 
 Azalea nudiflora, Fr. Azalea nudiflore, is a hardy shrub, 
 also from North America, about three feet high, and 
 
 blows in May and June. Yellow-flowered. — Lat. Azalea 
 
 pontica. — Fr. Azalea de pont. — A hardy shrub, found neai: 
 the Black Sea. It is about three feet high, and blows in 
 May. Propagated by layers or by suckers, which should 
 
yH rmnf^iisT OP SHRUBM. 
 
 not be moved until they have taken root well. They 
 like blaek heath mould j but do well in any garden soil. 
 These are all very ornamental shrubs j they have none 
 of them much leaf, but the white has the most. The 
 flower comes at the ends of the branches, and resembles, 
 in form, that of the common honey-suckle. Cut out 
 ^ dead wood, and that is all the pruning you need do. 
 
 t 328. BARBERRY.— Lat. Berbeiis vulgaris. -^Ft. Vine- 
 ^ ixer. — A thorny little indigenous shrub, which bears a 
 great abundance of small oblong red berries, and it is 
 for these, either for pickling, or as an ornament, that 
 the tree is planted in our gardens and shrubberies. It 
 nevertheless serves to make good hedges, and requires 
 no pruning, and is contented with any soil. Propagate 
 by sowing the seeds, or by layers (which ought to remain 
 two seasons before they are cut off from the mother 
 plant) or by suckers. There is another sort, the Chinese, 
 Lat. Sinensis. 
 
 329. BLADDER-SENNA.— Lat. Colutea Arhorescens.^ 
 
 Fr. Baguenaudier faux Sene A shrub of the south of 
 
 France, Italy and the Levant, which grows ten or twelve 
 feet high. It blows a yellow flower during the whok 
 summer, and bears the flower and the fruit at the same 
 time. Propagated by layers, or by sowing the seed in 
 rich and rather shady borders, or in an old hot-bed, 
 where they must stay till the following spring, when 
 they may be put in a nursery till the autumu, or planted, 
 at once, where they are meant to stay. Likes chalky 
 
 soil.- Bladder-Senna Oriental. — Lat. Colutea orien- 
 
 talis. Fr. Baguenaudier du Levant.'-'A hardy shrub from 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 the Levant, about six feet high, blows a yellowish red 
 
 flower in June and July. Bladder-Senna, scarlet- 
 
 flowered. — ljdX. Colutea fruiescens. — Fr. Baguenaudier 
 d Etheopi^.- — A hardy shrub, originally from Africa, about 
 four feet high, and blows in July. These two latter are 
 propagated in the same way as the first, and are equally 
 hardy, and like the same soil. 
 
 330. BLADDER-NUT, /ue leaved. —Lat, Staphylea 
 pinnaia. — Fr. Staphylea ci feuilles ailees. — A hardy shrub, 
 common in England, about fifteen or twenty feet high, 
 
 and blows a white flower in April, May, and June. 
 
 Bladder-Nut, three leaved. — Lat. Straphylea trifolia. — 
 Fr. Straphylea cl trois feuilles. — A hardy shrub from Vir- 
 ginia, not so high as the preceding one, and blows a 
 white flower in May and June. Propagated by suckers 
 planted in the autumn. Any soil or situation suits these. 
 
 331. BRAMBLE FLOWERING.— Lat. Rubus odora- 
 tus. — Fr. Ronce odorante. — A hardy shrub, originally froni 
 Canada, five or six feet high, and blows, in June and 
 August, a pinkish violet- colon red flower. Propagated 
 by suckers. It likes a moist shaded situation. This 
 plant is also called the flowering Raspberry. 
 
 332. BREAD-TREE. — Lat. Melia Jzedarach.^Fr. 
 V Azedarach des jardins. — A green-house shrub of Asia, 
 which g;rows ten or twelve feet high, and blows a white 
 flower tinted with purple, in July. Propagated by sow- 
 ing the seed, as soon as ripe, in the open earth j but, in 
 a place sheltered from the frost. Orange-tree earth 
 suits its best. 
 
 I 
 
VII. 'IffaOJLAO LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 333. BROOM.- See Genista. 
 
 334. BUCK-THORN, the common. — Lat. Rhamnus 
 Alaternus. — Fr. Nerprun Alaterne. — A hardy shrub from 
 the south of Europe, eight or ten feet high. Blows a 
 greenish yellow flower in April and May, and bears a red 
 berry. Propagated by seed, grafts, and layers. Not par- 
 ticular as to soil, but should be in a sheltered situation. 
 There are two varieties of this plant, the common, and the 
 jagged-leaved, and they are very fit for shrubberies. 
 
 335. BOX-TREE. — Lat. Buxus sempervirens. — Fr. Buis 
 commun. — An evergreen shrub of France, England, and 
 many other parts of Europe, which grows twenty feet 
 high, and blows a yellowish flower in April. Is most 
 generally propagated by slips or layers, which will strike 
 readily in the open ground, and almost any where. It is 
 most commonly used as an edging to gravel walks, but 
 it is also very handsome as a shrub, and is much used in 
 situations where shade and drip of other trees will 
 allow of scarcely any thing else. 
 
 336. CANDLE-BERRY MYRTLE.— Lat. Myrka 
 
 gale. — Fr. Myrka Gale. — A hardy shrub, common in the 
 forest of Rambouillet, in France, four feet in height, and 
 has a small red blossom, which appears in May and June. 
 Propagated by sowing, or by dividing the roots. Heath 
 
 mould suits it best. Candle -berry Myrtle, common 
 
 Amerkan. — Lat. Myrka cerifera. — Fr. Myrica de la Caro- 
 line. — A hardy shrub of North America, four or five feet 
 high, and blows in May. The fruit is small, and covered 
 
shrubIberies and flower-gardens. Chap. 
 
 with a white dust. Propagated by suckers, or by seed 
 sowed in pots. 
 
 "337. CAPER BUSH.— Lat. Capparis spinosa.--FY . 
 Cdprier de Provence. — A climber, originally of Provence 
 and the environs of de Grasse and Toulon. It grows 
 three or four feet high, and blows white flowers in 
 abundance in May and June. Propagated by seed or by 
 layers, but, as it is tender, the sure way to make layers is 
 to cover the stump with earth, and then the shoots 
 which come immediately from it take root easily. It is a 
 proper green -house plant. 
 
 338. ■ — "- — . Lat. Camellia Japonica. — Fr. 
 
 Camellier du Japon. — A very beautiful evergreen green- 
 house shrub, which blows in February and March, 
 flowers double, semi- double, and single j and there are 
 the red, red-and-white, pure white, and the blush, with 
 various others that have been procured by art. This 
 plant, though strictly speaking, a green-house plant, may 
 be brought to grow and blow in the open ground, if it be 
 planted under a southern wall, and sheltered in the 
 winter by mats or other covering. It likes a good rich 
 soil, though it is the practice of the great florists to grow 
 it in a mixture of peat and good garden mould, to which 
 some add a small proportion of sand. It is not difficult 
 of propagation either by cuttings, layers, or by grafting ; 
 if by cuttings, take oflP, in August, ripened shoots of the 
 preceding year's growth, to which you will let there be 
 three buds. Plant a dozen or so in a pot of six or eight 
 inches diameter filled with sand or sandy loam. Keep 
 
VJJ.; LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 the po.t under a frame or a hand-glass without bottom 
 heat, and shade it from powerful sun. In the spring, 
 •you will find them pushing forth j at least, all such as 
 have struck. Give them water plentifully when they are 
 in a growing state, and sprinkle their leaves also ; and, 
 ,in the f^l, they will be fit to pot ofi^, when you should 
 plant them singly in good-sized pots well drained by plac- 
 ing pot-sherds at the bottom. By layers, proceed as is re- 
 commended in Chap. VI. and graft in the manner re- 
 commended in that Chapter also, only it is usual to 
 omit cutting a tongue in the stock and the scion as there 
 recommended, because it is supposed to weaken both 
 more than they can bear j but the greater attention is 
 requisite in the tying, so that the barks of the stock and 
 the scion may not, in the operation of tying, be re- 
 moved from the point where you have placed them. I 
 will only repeat, that, when growing, and when in 
 flower, this plant requires to be plentifully watered ^ and 
 that the broiling mid-day sun of summer it never likes. 
 
 339. CATALPA.— Lat. Bignonia Catalpa.—Fr. Big- 
 none Catalpa, — This is a shrub or tree rising to the height 
 of thirty or forty feet ; and it is sufficiently hardy for 
 almost any part of the south of England. Its flowers, 
 which come like those of the horse chesnut, but not 
 until August, are far more beautiful, and they are pen- 
 dulous instead of being erect. In every thing else, this 
 tree is the reverse of the hore-chesnut. Its leaf is very 
 large, of a singularly bright green, which it preserves 
 wholly unfaded through the hottest summers, and until 
 the coming of the frost. Catalpas should not be planted 
 in the shade. In very cold and wet summers they do not 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 blow in England j they blow, however,five times, perhaps, 
 out of six 5 and, if they never blowed at all, they ought 
 to be cultivated for the beauty of the leaf. It is a tree of 
 great durability, as well in tree as in timber. They may 
 be raised from layers -, but with much less trouble from 
 seed, which can, at all times, easily be had from America, 
 which comes up the first year, and which attains a con- 
 siderable height even during the first summer. 
 
 340. CEDAR.— See Juniper. 
 
 Sn. CHERRY, the BIRD.— Lat. Prunus Padus.— 
 Fr. Cerisier d grappes, — A very handsome shrub^ growing 
 to the height of six or eight feet, and blowing in May, 
 abundance ot white flowers ; these become fruit, some 
 red and some black. It is a native of England, and is 
 propagated either by seeds^ suckers, or grafting on the 
 
 common cherry ; and it is not nice as to soil. Double 
 
 FLOWERING CiiERRY — Lat. Ceiasus floTe pleno — Fr. Cerisier 
 d, grande fleurs, is another species of cherry. It produces 
 a beautiful double flower in April, not so abundant as 
 that of the former kind, but much handsomer j and the 
 plant is not so tall. Propagation and cultivation the 
 
 same. Dwarf American Cubrry — Lat. Prunus Pu- 
 
 mila. — Fr. Cerisier nainde Canada. — From North America. 
 A dwarf shrub, not more than three or four feet high, 
 blowing small white flowers in April and May upon re- 
 markably slender branches. Propagate in the same 
 manner as for the two last ; and give any soil or situation. 
 These, according to their respective sizes, are very de- 
 sirable in the shrubbery and on the lawn, and they are 
 so handsome and so easy of cultivation that no excuse 
 can well be found for not having them. 
 
Vil. LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 34^2. CISTUS, or ROCK-ROSE, the laurel-leaved.---^ 
 Lat. Cistus laurifolius. — Fr. Ciste a feuilles de Laurier. — 
 A hardy shrub from the south of France and from Spain, 
 about six feet high, and blows a large white flower in 
 
 June and July. Gum Cistus. — Lat. Cistus Ladaniferus. 
 
 — Fr.Cisfe Ladanif^re. — A hardy and very beautiful shrub, 
 about six or eight feet high, and blows, in June and July, a 
 beautiful large white flower, with violet spots in the inside. 
 Propagated by cuttings taken in the summer, which take 
 root in about six weeks, if well ripened young wood be 
 chosen for the purpose, and put under a hand-glass, and 
 not crowded together too much. Cistus, the white- 
 leaved. — Lat. Cistus Albidus. — Fr. Ciste Cotonneux. — A 
 shrub of the south of Europe j is three or four feet high, 
 and blows a purplish flower in June and July. It will 
 sometimes live in the open ground, but it is best to keep 
 some plants in a house. Propagated by sowing the seed 
 in April, in pots in a hot-bed j and when the young 
 plants have five or six leaves, they must be planted, sepa- 
 rately, in very small pots, and put in the shade, or in a 
 shaded bed, to strike. Also propagated by cuttings 
 made in summer. 
 
 343. CLEMATIS, or VIRGIN'S BOWER. — Lat. 
 Clematis viticella. — Fr. Clematite bleue.—A hardy plant, 
 common enough in gardens : it is a climber, and is 
 suited to bowers and trellis-work, or for other con- 
 spicuous places. Blows a bluish purple flower in July 
 and August, and is easily propagated by layers, or from 
 the seed, which ripens in abundance, or by parting roots. 
 Any soil will suit it. 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. CuAP. 
 
 344. COBEA, CLIMBING.—Lat. Cobcea Scandens.— 
 Fr. Cobea Sarmenteux. — A green-house climber, originally 
 from Mexico. Its branches will grow thirty or forty 
 yards in length, and it blows, in August and September, 
 a large and exceedingly handsome flower, which is at i 
 first of a pale yellow, but afterwards violet. It is, 
 although a green-house plant, as hardy as the passion 
 flower, and, like that plant, will run over a great extent 
 of wall in one summer, blowing abundance of its mag- 
 nificent flowers, and ripening seeds in a pod of the size 
 of a walnut j then, if not very well protected from frost. 
 It will die down. But it is so easily procured either 
 from seeds, or cuttings, that no one need be long at a 
 loss, if his plant even perish during the winter. In 
 green-houses of small extent, it almost prevents your 
 having any thing else, so much room will it occupy in a 
 short time ; therefore it is generally seen in the larger 
 conservatories, where it makes a great show for two 
 months. 
 
 345. CORIARIA, or MYRTLE-LEAVED SUMACH. 
 
 — Lat. Coriaria Myrtifolia. — Fr. Redout d, feuilles de myrte. 
 — A hardy shrub from the south of Europe, that blows 
 in April. Propagated by suckers, and also by seed. 
 
 346. CYPRESS-TREE.— Lat. Cupressus Sempervirens. 
 — Fr. Cypres commun. — A hardy shrub from the Levant; 
 grows fifteen or twenty feet high, and blows a yellow 
 blossom in May. The wood is hard, and of a red colour, 
 with a very sweet scent. 
 
 847. CYTISUS, or LAB URN AM. — Lat. Cytisus 
 
VII. LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 Laburnum — Fr. Cytise des Alpes. — A hardy and handsome 
 tree, originally from the Alps, twenty or thirty feet high, 
 
 and blows a yellow flower in May and June. Cytisus, 
 
 COMMON. — Lat. Cytisus Sessilifolius. — ^Fr. Cytise a feuilles 
 sessiles. — A hardy shrub of Provence, twelve feet high, 
 blows a yellow flower in May and June. Hairy Cy- 
 tisus. — Lat. Cytisus hirsutus. — Fr. Cytise velu. — A hardy 
 shrub of the southern parts of Europe, smaller than the 
 common cytisus, and blows a yellow flower in June. All 
 the three sorts propagated by sowing the seeds in pots 
 or in flower-beds, where they must remain until the 
 following spring, when they must be put in a nursery. 
 They grow well almost every where, producing amazing 
 quantities of blossom and of seed. They require no par- 
 ticular management, and are proper for the inner parts of 
 shrubberies. As they produce their flowers from spurs, 
 which come all along the old wood, prune no more than 
 is necessary to neighbouring trees or other things, and 
 cut out dead wood. 
 
 348. DOGWOOD, or CORNELIAN CHERRY.— 
 
 Lat. Cornus Mascula — Fr. Cornnuiller mdle. — A hardy 
 shrub from Austria, fifteen or twenty feet high, and blows 
 a yellow flower in February. Propagated by suckers, 
 
 which are taken and planted early in the autumn. 
 
 Dogwood, American. — Lat. Cornus Florida, — Fr. Cor- 
 nouiller a grandes Jleurs. — An equally hardy plant from 
 North America, but it there sometimes rises to the 
 height of forty or fifty feet. Grows at the edges of 
 woods, and blows large white and pink flowers at the 
 ends of its branches in May and June. Propagated from 
 seeds j and but little known in England, 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP.! 
 
 349. DIERVILLA.— See Honeysuckle. 
 
 350. BIOTIS SHRUBBY.— Lat. Diotis candidissima. 
 — Fr, Diotis cotonneuse.— A hardy shrub from Siberia, 
 eight or nine inches high, and blows a yellow flower in 
 August. Propagated by layers, and cuttings will do 
 under a hand-glass. Likes a stony soil. 
 
 351. FONTANESI A, phillyrea- leaved. — Lat. Fontanesia 
 phillyreo'ides. — Fr. Fontanesia dfeuilles de Jilaria. — A hardy 
 shrub from Syria, ten or twelve feet high, and blows a 
 white flower in May. Good to put against walls, for the 
 purpose of hiding them. Propagated by suckers, cuttings, 
 and also by seed. Does well in almost any soil, if it be 
 not too moist. 
 
 85^. FUCHSIA.— Lat. Fuchsia cocdnea, —Fr. Fuchsie 
 ecarlate. — A pretty tender shrub, a native of Chili, where 
 it grows to the height of three or four feet. Its young 
 branches are delicate, and of a deep scarlet colour, as are 
 the tips of its leaves ; and, throughout the summer 
 months, it blows numerous little pendant flowers, the 
 upper part scarlet, and, towards the lower, becoming oil 
 a bluish violet. The young shoots strike freely under a! 
 hand-glass, which should frequently be tilted up a little ^ 
 to give air. A mixture of good loam and peat suits them; 
 well. The green-house is the proper place for thisi 
 plant, though in the summer it will do well turned out; 
 into the open ground, and will even live through a mode- 
 rate winter in England, if cut down and carefully covered* 
 with litter J but it is generally potted in the beginning oi 
 October, and then, having taken root, is placed in its;' 
 winter quarters. ■ 
 
711, LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 353. GENISTA, or BROOM.— Lat. Genista tinctoria.-- 
 Jr. Genet d. balais. — The common yellow broom every 
 )ne knows j and the eflfect of it in a shrubbery need 
 scarcely be described. There is a white sort. Genista 
 ilba, which is very handsome. These blow in May j 
 uid are propagated without any difficulty from the 
 seed. Sow them in rows not far apart, in the spring, 
 and keep them cleanly weeded when they are small. The 
 white sort is remarkably handsome for a full month in 
 the spring of the year, and should, by all means, form a 
 part of the shrubbery, though it is rather too tall to be 
 immediately in the front row. 
 
 354. GERANIUM.— Lat. Gerawmw.— Fr. Geranier.— 
 The botanists have found geraniums in almost all 
 countries, some herbaceous, some woody, some fibrous- 
 rooted and some tuberous-rooted j but I shall leave all the 
 rest unmentioned, that I may have the more room to 
 speak of the two or three sorts that I deem the most 
 ornamental, and, in every way, the best deserving men- 
 tion in this work. The English florists have become 
 eelebrated for their collections of a vast variety of green- 
 house geraniums, which equal, or surpass, in number 
 that of the auricula, and which certainly does include a 
 set of flowers of unrivalled beauty. This plant is, among 
 English florists, what the tulip and hyacinth are with the 
 Dutch florists : they spare no expense in erecting propa- 
 gation-houses and conservatories for it, they have shows 
 of it, they give a high-sounding name to every new 
 variety, and whole works have been published laudatory 
 
 [ of its beauties. — ^The common scarlet and the ivy -leaved 
 are the only two sorts that I shall particularize. The 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 first is well known in most gardens. It is a woody 
 plant, though its wood is of a succulent nature and is not 
 a match for our winters in the open air 3 it grows to the 
 height of four feet or more in good ground in England, 
 and much higher at the Cape of Good Hope or in the 
 south of Africa, where it is indigenous. It has large 
 downy soft leaves of a beautiful luxuriant green, placed 
 at the end of foot-stalks, and it bears its flowers in scarlet 
 bouquets, or bunches, at the end of foot-stalks longer 
 than those of the leaves. It will spread to a great width 
 when planted out, and in a good warm summer. I have 
 had it at Kensington full five feet over, and covered with 
 blossoms from the middle of June to the middle of 
 October. It is said to like a light rich mould best. Rich 
 mould it does like, but I never found it do otherwise than 
 well in the deepest and stifiFest garden mould that I have 
 occupied, and I have occupied some of the stiffest that I 
 ever saw in my life. In its native country it likes sand, 
 because it has nothing else j but I look upon it, that, a 
 geranium in African sand under an English sun, would 
 become a very poor thing indeed. Gravel suits it ill, as 
 do also the extremes of chalk or clay, but a good depth 
 of mould over a bed of either of these latter, with well- 
 rotted manure and good tillage, will make a very fine 
 geranium, and will keep it in blossom four months of 
 the year. As it is infalliby killed by hard frost, unless 
 most cautiously covered over with litter and mats, the 
 way to perpetuate it that I generally follow is this : in 
 July take some cuttings of young wood that is ripening, 
 and put them in separate pots of nice mould, observing 
 to have two joints below the earth and one above it. 
 Then plunge the pots up to their rims in a hot-bed of 
 
VII. LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 moderate heat. Shade them with mats, but do not give 
 air for a day or two, and then give a' little water and air, 
 but let the water have stood in the watering-pot exposed 
 to the sun for three or four hours before you give it. 
 Wheh you find they have struck and are growing well, 
 re-pot them and place them in the open air, but in a 
 shady situation, with hoops over them that you may lay 
 mats on. Put some siftings of cinders on the ground 
 before you place the pots on it, and this will keep out 
 worms. In this place, let them recover the re-potting, 
 which they will soon do, and then they are nice fresh 
 and convenient-sized plants for the green-house, where 
 they will blow in the winter, and in the following May, 
 will be your supply for the open ground. Another way 
 of propagating is by seed, of which you may generally 
 gather abundance in July, and, if sowed directly in good 
 earth and in large pots plunged in a hot-bed, will come 
 up directly, and, being potted out singly in three weeks 
 from the time of coming out, and again carefully ma- 
 naged (though not forced), will be fine strong plants by 
 the end of autumn, and handsomer in form than those 
 raised from cuttings. Put them into the green-house in 
 September, or earlier if the weather be cold, and observe 
 that you cannot give too much air, nor keep the place 
 too free from damp. Want of air and dampness being 
 the two main destroyers of these plants. If their leaves 
 turn yellow, be sure that there is not air enough j and, 
 if their joints become mouldy, look to dampness as the 
 cause. Prune off dead branches, and always keep the 
 plant bushey, for otherwise it becomes a long horny 
 thing, with a small head and few flowers. The ivy- 
 leaved geranium is a pretty little trailing plant, with 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 thin branches of a brownish green hue, and little smooth 
 rather fleshy leaves of a dark green with a broad rim of 
 black near the outside edge, and of the shape of an ivy- 
 leaf. It blows clusters of pinkish flowers throughout 
 the summer months ; is tender, but does well in the 
 green-house, or in any parlour window of good aspect. 
 Propagate it by cuttings as you do the last-mentioned ; 
 and train it up a little ladder, getting wider and wider as 
 it gets high j prune only dead branches. A mixture of 
 vegetable manure and good mould suits it well. 
 
 355. •. — Lat. Gordonia Pubescem. — Fr. 
 
 Gordania Pubescent — To which Bertram, the discoverer 
 of it, gave the name of Franklinia. This shrub is a 
 native of the southern States of America. Its flowers 
 are magnificent, and it grows to a height of from ten to 
 twenty feet. It is deciduous j and the seeds of it must 
 be had from America ; for though it would blow here 
 very well, it would not ripen its seed. It has long stood 
 the climate of Pennsylvania, where the winters are much 
 more severe than they are in England. 
 
 356. GEORGIA BARK.— Lat. Pinkneyea Pubens,-^ 
 Fr. Pinkneyea Pubescent. — This is a singularly beajutiful 
 shrub, both as to leaf and flower ; grows to the height 
 of twenty feet 3 but must be. tender, because it appears 
 to be confined to the southern States of America. It was 
 discovered by M. Michaux in 1791, who gave it the 
 name of Pinkneya, in honour of Mr. Pinkney, who had 
 been ambassador in France. 
 
 f 
 
 357. GUELDER-ROSE. — Lat. Viburnum opulus.^ 
 
Vn. LIST OP SHRUBS. 
 
 Fr. Fiorne obier. — A shrub common in most parts of 
 Europe, is five or six feet high, and blows a large round 
 white flower like a ball of snow, in May and June. Pro- 
 pagated by seed, but most frequently by layers or 
 suckers. Not at all particular as to soil. 
 
 358. HARE'S-EAR, shrubby. — Lat, Bupleurum fru- 
 ticosum. — Fr. Buplevre frutescent. — A rather tender ever- 
 green shrub of Provence, and other parts of the south 
 of France. It grows to the height of five or six feet 
 ^nd blows a yellow flower in July or August. It is very 
 pretty, and suited to winter shrubberies ; but requires to 
 be placed so that it may not push out too much in the 
 summer. Propagated by sowing the seeds in light earth 
 as soon as they are ripe, or by cuttings under a hand- 
 glass. 
 
 359. HONEY-SUCKLE.— Lat, Lonicera caprifolia.— 
 Fr. Chevrefeuille des jardins. — A trailing shrub of England; 
 France, and other parts of Europe, which grows against 
 walls or trees, and blows a reddish flower from the end 
 of the spring to the middle of summer. Any soil suits 
 it, but it does best exposed to the sun. Propagated by- 
 layers made at any time of the year, or by cuttings put 
 in in the spring and autumn. Honey-suckle, Red- 
 berried. — Lat. Lonicera alpigena. — Fr. Chevre-feuille des 
 Alpes. — A climbing shrub, three or four feet high, from 
 Switzerland Blows a red flower in May. Honey- 
 suckle, the Pyrenean. — Lat. Lonicera Pyrenaica. — Fr. 
 Chevre-feuille des Pyr^n^es. — A climbing shrub of the- 
 Pyrenees, three or four feet high, and blows, in May, a 
 flower that is red on one side.-: IIoney-suckle, thel 
 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 Trumpet. — Lat. Lonicera sempervirens. — Fr. Chevre-feuille 
 toujours vert. — A climbing evergreen shrub from North 
 America. Blows, from May till August, a flower which 
 is red on the outside, and yellow in the inside. Propa- 
 gated by layers and cuttings. Any soil suits them. 
 
 Honey-suckle, the Tartarian. — Lat. Lonicera Tartarica, 
 Fr. Chameserisier de Tartaric. — A shrub, originally from 
 Russia and Tartary, which grows to the height of five 
 or six feet, and blows in March and April. As the seeds 
 are one or two years in coming up, it is best to propagate 
 them by layers, which may be planted where they are to 
 stay at the end of eighteen months. They do not like 
 the spring frosts, but hard winters do not hurt them. 
 Any soil suits them, but it is advisable to put them in a 
 good situation and in a warm soil. — — Honey-suckle, 
 Yellow-flowered. — Lat. Diervilla lutea. — Fr. Diervilla a 
 fieurs Jaunes.—A hardy shrub from North America, two 
 or three feet high, and blows a yellow flower in June. 
 Propagated by suckers. Any soil or situation agrees 
 with it, 
 
 360. HAWTHORN, fF/ti^e.-Lat.MespiZMs OxiocawMa.— 
 Fr. Nejiier Aubepine. — A shrub common in many parts of 
 Europe, which blows a white flower in May j but enough 
 of it has been said in paragraph 32. But, besides being 
 a most useful pSant for the purpose of making hedges, it 
 is also an exceedingly ornamental shrub, having foliage, 
 flower and fragrance to delight our senses early in the 
 month of May. Propagated from the seeds which ripen 
 plentifully. Gather them in the fall 3 keep them .all the 
 winter in sand, and sow in the spring j and, in two years 
 your plants will be fit to go out. 
 
vn. 
 
 LIST OP SHRUBS. 
 
 J,, ;36'1. INDIGO, shrubby bastard, — ^Lat. Amorpha fruti- 
 tosa. — Fr. Amorpha elevL — A rather hardy shrub of Caro- 
 lina, ten feet high, and blows a violet-coloured flower in 
 ^iine and July. Propagated from seed and from cuttings. 
 Any soil will do for it, but it prefers a light and 
 gravelly soil, and a warm situation. In severe winters 
 it requires sheltering, 
 
 362. IVY. — Lat. Hedera helix. — Fr. Lierre commun.— 
 A hardy climber, common in Europe ; blows a whitish 
 flower in September and October, and is useful to cover 
 old walls. — H. CanatiensiSi or Irish Ivy, is the best sort : 
 both are easily propagated by layers or cuttings. 
 
 363. 3 XSMX^, common white. — hat. Jasminum officinale. — 
 Fr. Jasmin commun. — A shrub of the coast of Malabar, 
 which grows ten or twelve feet high, and blows a sweet- 
 scented white flower from July to October. Propagated 
 by suckers. Any soil suits it, but it likes a light and 
 warm one best. It is generally trained against walls or 
 
 trellis-work, and will there grow to a great height. 
 
 Jasmin, yellow Italian. — Lat. Jasminum humile. — Fr. Jasmin 
 d' Italic. — A shrub which grows four or five feet high, 
 and blows a yellow flower from July to September. Cul- 
 tivated like the white jasmin. 
 
 ^ 364. JUNIPER-TREE, or red cedar.— Lat. Junipcrus 
 Virginiana. — Fr. Genevrier de Virginie. — An evergreen 
 tree from North America that blows in May, and pro- 
 duces a little blue berry. It grows to forty or fifty feet 
 high, and delights in peat soil ) but is not very nice as to 
 
 that. Phcenician Cedar ^Lat. Junipcrus PfianicSa. — 
 
 Fr. Genhrier de Phenicie. — An evergreen shrub from the 
 R 2 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 south of Europe, which blows in April, and produces a 
 yellow berry. It grows to about six or eight feet high. 
 Juniper, the common. — Lat. Juniperus communis. — Fr. Ge- 
 
 nevrier commun A shrub common in England ; and bears 
 
 a fruit of a blackish blue colour. Propagated by cuttings 
 Sind suckers, and, also, by seed, which comes up the 
 second year, and should be sown in garden mould mixed 
 with sand. The two foregoing should be propagated in 
 the same manner. 
 
 365. KCELREUTERIA, panicled. — lj^.L Kcelreuteria 
 paniculate. — Fr.Kalreuteria panicule.—A hardy shrub, ten or 
 twelve feet high, originally from China, which blows a yel_ 
 low flower in August. Propagated by seed, and requires great 
 care fpr the first two or three years. It is also obtained by 
 cuttings planted in February in pots,and put into a hot-bed 
 of moderate heat. They take root in about a month, and 
 should be separated in the autumn, 
 
 366. LAUREL, or sweet-bay. — Lat. Laurus nohilis. — Fr, 
 Laurier commun. — That common evergreen which we see 
 now in all parts of England forming the underwood to 
 high shrubberies, and the fore- ground of low ones. It is 
 a native of Italy, but is hardy enough to stand the 
 winters of the southern parts of England well, though in 
 the North, and particularly if on high and exposed 
 situations, it will not outlive a very severe winter. It 
 blows a yellow small flower in May ; and is easily pro- 
 pagated by layers. It grows to ten or twelve feet highj 
 when in a sheltered situation, and is more particular as 
 to this matter than as to soil. Under the- tall Scotch 
 ^rs in Wiodsor great Park, immediately adjoining lh?it 
 
VII. LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 barrenest of all spots, Bagshot Heath, there are laiirels 
 of eight-and-twenty feet high ! I never saw them any 
 
 where so large as there. Portugal Laurel.— Lat. 
 
 Prunus Lusitanica. -^Fr. Cerisier Azarero. — Another ever* 
 green, and common enough in England. It is from Portu- 
 gal, and blows a white flower in June and July, and then 
 produces blackish berries, thinly disposed on its flower- 
 stalk. It will grow to twelve or fifteen feet high (and much 
 higher when raised from seed,) forming a round full head 
 ^ike an apple-tree, and having a no inconsiderable, though 
 very short, trunk. Propagated, from layers or seed, the 
 seed should be sown as soon as ripe in beds. Any soil al- 
 most will suit it, but it likes a good deep one best.-^ 
 
 Laue^el Alexandrian. — Lat. Ruscus racemosus. — Ff. 
 iFragon d, grappes. — An evergreen shrub from the south of 
 Europe, which is about two feet high, blows, in June and 
 July, a flower of a yellowish colour, and the fruit is a beau* 
 tiful red berry. It is propagated by seed but most com- 
 monly by separating the roots (which should be strong) 
 in February or March. It likes a sandy earth, and will 
 thrive in a shady situation. 
 
 367. LIME TREE,— Lat. Tilia europaa.—Fr. Til- 
 leuls de Hollande. — A hardy tree of England, France^ 
 Sweden, and other parts of Europe. It would grow to a 
 good height, except that it is generally kept short in 
 gardens, that the branches may grow thicker and form a 
 shade. Blows a yellow flower in May and June. Pro- 
 pagated by cuttings, and sometimes by seed, and likes a 
 soil of good depth. 
 
 368. LILAC, common. — Lat. Syringa vulgaris. — Fr. 
 Lilas commun. —A shrub from Constantinople, about 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 twelve feet in height, blows, in May, a violet-coloured, 
 
 or white, flower. Lilac, Chinese. — Lat. Syringa Chi- 
 
 nensis. — Fr. Lilas hybride. — A shrub originally from 
 China. Has a violet-coloured flower. Not so tall as the 
 
 foregoing. Lilac, Persian. — Lat. Syringa Persica. — 
 
 Fr. Lilas de Perse. — A shrub from Persia, about eight feet 
 high, and, in May, blows a light purple flower. They 
 are all to be propagated by shoots, suckers, or layers, 
 told they like good deep soil. They are very proper for 
 shrubberies, but the first sort in particular is too tall for 
 the fronts of them. 
 
 369. LOCUST.— Lat. Pseudo- acacia, — ^Fr. Robinier,-^ 
 A timber-tree of North America, which I mention here 
 on account of its being one of the most ornamental of 
 our tall shrubbery trees, both owing to its handsome 
 foliage, and its handsome and abundant clusters of white 
 flowers. It is propagated from seed, which is sometimes 
 ripened in this country. The plants come up the first 
 year, and, in the fall of the same year, may be planted 
 out where they are to stand ; though it is certainly better 
 to ^ve them one year in the nursery, cutting them down 
 to within a couple or three inches of the ground every 
 time you transplant. Their only enemies are hares and 
 rabbits, and, if planted out young in a place where these 
 vermin abound, expect not to preserve your locust trees. 
 
 370. LOBLOLLY BAY.— Lat. Gordonia Lasyanthus. 
 — ^Fr. Gordonia ^ feuilles Glahres. — This is an evergreen 
 which rises to the height of fifty or sixty feet in America, 
 bearing a white flower, in size and shape very much like 
 that of the dwarf or round tulip. I have never seen one of 
 
VII, LIST OF 6HRU15S. 
 
 them in England, and I suppose that it is about as ten- 
 der as the Magnolia Grandiflora, as it comes from the 
 southern States of America. 
 
 37 1 . . Lat. Symphoricarpos parvixlora."' 
 
 Fr. Lonicera Symphoricarpos. — A very pretty dwarf shrub, 
 that comes out into leaf more early in the spring than 
 any other that I know of, and has a leaf of singular 
 beauty. I raised, the year before last, great quantities 
 from seed got from America, The seed lay two years in 
 the ground j but the plants grew surprizingly after they 
 came up. It blows in August a minute but pretty and 
 pendant rose coloured flower, which is succeeded by a 
 dmall red berry. This is a very pretty shrub, and easily 
 propagated from layers, of which every plant affords pro- 
 digious quantities. 
 
 372. MAGNOLIA. — There are seven sorts of Mag- 
 nolias, all of which come from North America; They 
 are called, first. The Magnolia Grandiflora, some of which 
 have white and some purplish flowers. It grows in the 
 southern States of North America to the common heighrt 
 of our elms. It is rather too tender for exposed situa- 
 tions in England, and is generally placed against a house 
 or a high wall facing the south. I have, however, seen 
 them standard trees, and of considerable height. Its 
 flowers are magnificent, indeed. They are shaped some- 
 what like the flower of the tulip, and burst open like the 
 tulip. The petals are from three to four inches long, and 
 the flower sometimes, when quite open, forms a circum- 
 ference of more than a foot, or approaching to a foot and 
 a half. From the centre of the petals there arises a 
 
SHRUBBERIJtS AND FLOWBB-GARDENS. ChAF. 
 
 flower-pod somewhat in the shape of a pine-apple, which 
 opens when the seed is nearly ripe, and the seeds come 
 out from the sides of this seed-pod and hang suspended 
 from it from a little sort of string. This magnolia is an 
 i^vergreen, and has long, large, and beautiful leaves. AH 
 magnolias may be raised from the seed j but that seed 
 must be brought from the country of which the tree is a 
 native. The seed comes up the first year in the natural 
 ground, but the seedlings must be carefully pratectecl 
 during the winter for a year or two. — Second, Mag' 
 nolia iripetella, which the Americans call umbrella-tree^ 
 This tree is hardy, and will grow as a standard in any 
 tolerable situation in England. The leaves of this tree 
 are some of the largest and finest in the world. I hav« 
 some now each of which is about twenty-one inches long, 
 and nine inches wide in the middle. The tiower is white 
 and has three petals, each of very great length and 
 breadth. This tree loses its leaves in the fall. — Third, 
 Magnolia acuminata. This is another variety. It is hardyi 
 and will very well endure the climate of England. — ^Fourth^ 
 Magnolia cordata. This has rather a round leaf, and has a 
 yellow blossom. It is about as tender as the Magnolia 
 Grandiflora. — Fifth, Magnolia auriculata. — Sixth, Magnolia 
 macrophylla. Both varieties of the great magnolia or mag- 
 nolia grandiflora,and both about as tender as that. — Seventh 
 Magnolia Glauea, or smalt Magnolia. This is perfectly hardy, 
 grows in Canada, and in all parts of the United States of 
 America, and is a shrub, take it altogether, excelling 
 every other. It is called the glauca on account of the 
 bluish colour on the under-side of its leaves, which are of 
 a bright green on the upper side, and have the solidify 
 and characteristics of the laurel, though the tree i§. 
 
VII. LIST OP SHRUBS. 
 
 deci(iuous. It rises to the height of ten or twelve feet ; 
 bears a flower of the shape of the dwarf or round tulip. 
 It is about the size also of the flower of the dwarf tulip, 
 opens by slow degrees, and emits an odour the most de- 
 lightful that can be conceived j far exceeding that of the 
 rose ; in strength equal to that of the jonquil or the 
 tuberose, and far more delightful. In the country where 
 this tree grows, a clump of them scents a whole wood. 
 The tree continues to bear flowers for a long while, two 
 months, at the least ; for the flowers succeed each other, 
 some being mere buds, while the petals of others are 
 dropping. This tree will grow in almost any ground : 
 as it is generally found near swamps in America, i 
 thought that it required a low situation in England, until 
 I saw upon a sand-hill partly covered with heath, in a 
 garden which belonged to Sir Herbert Taylor near 
 St. Ann's Hill, one of these magnolias in as vigorous a 
 fetate and us full bloom as I ever saw one in America^ 
 This shrub, like the great magnolia, is raised from layers 
 in England 3 but if it were raised from seed, as it very 
 easily might be, the plants would be beyond all measure 
 finer than they generally are. None of the other mag- 
 nolias are nearly so odoriferous as this ; all but this are 
 somewhat tender : this might be in every shrubbery in 
 England with the greatest ease ; and I cannot help ex- 
 pressing my hope that it may one day become as common 
 as the lilac. 
 
 373. MEZEREON. — Lat. Daphne Mezereum. -—Fr. 
 Daphne bois gentil.— A shrub of the most mountainous 
 parts of France, three feet high, and blows a rose- 
 -coloured, or white flower, at ^the end of the winter. 
 B 5 
 
 i 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. CflAP. 
 
 Propagated by cuttings or by see(1 sown in open earth, in 
 drills or otherwie, but covered two inches thick. It 
 likes a light soil, and a rather shady situation. A very 
 nice plant for the front part of shrubberies. 
 
 374. MYRTLE, cftmmon. — Lat. Myrtus communis. — Fr. 
 Myrte commun. — A shrub originally from Asia, Africa, 
 Italy, and the south of France. Blows a white flower 
 during the summer, and the fruit ripens in the autumn. 
 It will grow five or six feet high in pots or against walls, 
 but if not well protected, will not outlive the winter ; 
 and it requires a good aspect to make it blossom. It 
 likes a good loamy soil, and I have had it blossom 
 abundantly in such, and in a south-western aspect, in 
 Hampshire. Propagate it by cuttings of young wood 
 placed under a hand-glass, or by layers. 
 
 375. OLEASTER, narrow leaved. — Lat. ElecBgnus an- 
 gustyolia. — Fr. Chalef d feuilles etroites. — A hardy tree of 
 Provence, about thirty feet high, and bears a yellow 
 blossom in June and July. Its foliage produces an 
 agreeable effect in parks and large gardens, for which 
 only it is proper. Propagated by layers or by cuttings, 
 but the cuttings require sheltering in the winter. Any 
 soil suits it, but it likes best a light, sandy, and rather 
 Warm soil. 
 
 376. OLIVE-TREE.— Lat. Oka Europaa.~¥r. Olivier 
 commun. — A green-house shrub from the south of Europe. 
 Blows a white fragrant flower in May. Propagated by 
 parting the roots, by suckers, and by cuttings. They 
 are often grafted on the common privet. 
 
VII. LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 VS77. OLEANDER, or Rose-hay. -Lat. Nerium Grandi- 
 ^orum. — Fr. Laurier rose d grandes fieurs. — A beautiful 
 #¥ergreen green-house shrub, from the south of Europe, 
 (jhrows six or eight feet high, and from July to Septem- 
 ber, blows large double pink flowers of the most agree- 
 able and most delicate appearance. It requires a good 
 but rather light soil, water and heat when putting forth 
 its flowers, but little water and no dam'p at other times^ 
 as these cause a mould to come round its joints. It is a 
 handsome plant in form, and should be shifted into fresh 
 pots every two or three years. Propagate it by cuttings 
 of the young and just-ripened wood, planted under a 
 hand-glass, and with a little heat under, or by layers 
 which root freely. It is one of the very handsomest k:^ 
 
 green-house shrubs. Common Red — Lat. Nerium 
 
 Oleander — Fr. Laurier rose des jardins — is another species, 
 not so tender, and not by any means so handsome. It 
 will grow and blow in the open ground, but must be 
 covered carefully in the winter. Propagation the same 
 as for the former. 
 
 378. ORANGE-TREE.— Lat. Citrus.— -Yr. L'oranger.— 
 A green-house evergreen shrub of the East Indies and 
 south of Europe, which grows fifteen feet high, and.blows 
 a white fragrant flower in June and July. Propagated by 
 sowing in March or April in pots put in a bed of moderate 
 beat, or more easily, by procuring from Italy or France, 
 roots already grafted and pretty strong. These plants 
 require a rich mould, tind should be manured with rotten 
 dung. In the north of France, they are generally kept 
 in large square boxes of three or four feet diameter, and 
 tbese boxes being on wheels, they are easily moved in 
 
BHRUBBERllIS AND rLOWfift-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 and out of the conservatory. The sides of the boxes 
 are so constructed as to open like doors, and thus, every 
 year, one side is opened and looked at, and roots are 
 pruned or fresh mould introduced, as the cultivator 
 thinks fit. triawi^n jhut\ Mdr 
 
 379. PAPAW. — Lat. Anona triloba. — Fr. Amminier. — 
 Is a native of Canada, and, therefore, hardy. It bears a 
 beautiful purple flower in the month of July, and rises to 
 the height of twenty or thirty feet. It being hardy, it 
 would be certainly worth the trouble of obtaining the 
 seeds from America. 
 
 380. PERIWINKLE, large— Lat Vinca major.— Tt. 
 La grande Pervenche. — A hardy trailing plant from the 
 south of Europe, grows two feet high, blowing a pretty 
 blue flower during the whole of the summer. Propagated 
 by suckers which come in abundance 3 likes any soil, 
 and a shady situation. 
 
 381. POME-GRANATE* — Lat. Punica granatum.— 
 Fr. Grenadier commun. — A shrub belonging to Italy, Spain, 
 aud the south of France. About twelve or fifteen feet 
 high, and blows in July and September a beautiful red 
 flower. Propagated by suckers and layers, and cuttings 
 which root easily* There are two sorts which have white 
 flowers, one double, the other single. Require the green- 
 house in England, and a little heat, too, to make them 
 blow strongly. Good loamy soil. 
 
 38^. PASSION FLOWER.— Lat. Passiflora ccerulea.— 
 Fr. Grenadille bleue. — A climbing plant, originally from 
 South America ; is about forty feet high, and, from July 
 
VIL LIST OP SHRtJBS. 
 
 till October, blows a flower, the exterior of which is a 
 pale green, and the interior a fine purple. Its branches 
 will extend over a large surface of wall in one summer, 
 and, if not well looked to and nailed up, will get into 
 great confusion and become rather ugly than otherwise. 
 It may be trained up pillars^ over bovvers, or it may be 
 let in at parlour windows. It is, as far as its branches 
 go, tender, but will live throughout the winter if matted 
 over with care, and, if not matted, will often only die 
 down to the root, and spring up again at the approach of 
 summer. Propagate by striking cuttings in the autumn 
 under a hand-glass or a gentle heat. Mixture of garden 
 mould and peat suits the passion-flower well j but it is 
 not very nice as to soil. 
 
 383. PISTACHlO-TREE.~Lat. Pistachia vera. — Fr, 
 Pistachier cultivS. — A tree from Syria, twenty or thirty 
 
 feet high, and blows in April and May. Tukpentine- 
 
 TREE. — Lat. Pistachia terebinthus. — Fr. Pistachier terc' 
 binthe. — A hardy shrub from Barbary, where it attains 
 
 the height of an elm. Blows in April and May. 
 
 Mastick-taee. — Lat. Pistachia Lenticus. — Fr. Pistachier 
 lentisque. — A green- ho use shrub from the south of Europe, 
 where it is generally about ten or twelve feet high, and 
 blows in April. These all bear berries. Propagated by 
 seed, sown in pots and put into a hot-bed, in the spring. 
 Layers can also be made of them, but they are never so 
 strong. They require a warm situation, and, in the 
 winter, the roots should be covered with litter. 
 
 384 PRIVET, common. — Itsd. Ligustrum vulgare. — 
 Fr. Troene commun. — ^A hardy shrub, common in Eng- 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. CflAP, 
 
 land 5 six or eight feet high, and blows a pretty 
 odoriferous white flower in June and July. Propagated 
 by cuttings, layers, and seed. Does well in any soil or 
 situation. It is generally used for low hedges in gardens 
 and pleasure grounds, where it is suitable; and, when 
 white and red roses are planted with it, makes as pretty 
 a fence as can be conceived. 
 
 385. PSORALEA, bituminous. — Lat. Psoralea bitumi- 
 nosa,-—'Yr. Psoralea bitumineux. — A green-house shrub of 
 the south of France, about three feet in height, and 
 blows a blue flower during the whole of the summer. 
 It will sow itself when in a strong earth, and likes a 
 warm but airy situation, 
 
 386. REST-HARROW, the purple-flowered shrubby.—* 
 Lat. Ononis fruticosa. — Fr. Bugrane Ugneuse. — A shrub of 
 the Dauphin^ mountains, and fit for borders of spring 
 shrubs. It grows two or three feet high, and blows a red 
 flower from June to October. Propagated by sowing 
 the seeds in beds of light earth, but the plants must be 
 put in pots, and sheltered from the frost for two years, 
 when they will be strong enough to stay in the open 
 earth. Layers will root too. 
 
 387. ROSE. — Lat. Rosa. — Fr. Rose.—Any eulogy of 
 the rose would be childish, and it would not be much less 
 childish to insert a catalogue of roses of more than a 
 thousand in number, from the lists of the florists of 
 France and England. The roses that might content any 
 man not a professed florist, are the following. 1st. Pro- 
 vence, white and red. ^d. Moss Provence, white and red. 
 3d. Damask. 4th, Velvet. 5th, Striped. 6th. Maiden's 
 
VII. LIST OP SHRUBS. 
 
 Hush, 7th. Monthly roses, white and red. 8th. Yellow double 
 and single. 9th. Rose de Manx. 10th. Sweet Briar. Uth. 
 Austrian briar (the flower, the colour of that of a nastur- 
 tium). 12th. Chinese, or ever-blowing. 13th. MuUifloia, 
 many-flowering. 14th. Lady Banks. The three last may be 
 easily raised from cuttings: all the rest from layers or 
 Slickers. The Lady Banks is a rose brought from China by 
 Sir Joseph BANKvS,and given to the King's gardens at Kew. 
 It is a little white rose, and bears its flowers in bunches, 
 and yields to nothing, in point of odour, except the Mag- 
 nolia Glauca. The leaf is very delicate, and the tree has 
 no thorns, in which respect it differs, I believe, from every 
 other rose in the world. After all, perhaps, leaf, colour, 
 size, every thing taken into account, the Provence rose is 
 still the finest, and they ought to be in abundance in 
 every shrubbery. To cause the rose to continue to pro- 
 duce flowers for a long while, gather the flowers close to 
 the stem, cropping off the seed hip as soon as the petals 
 begin to drop, which, besides the other circumstance, 
 will prevent the ground from being littered by the flowers 
 which become putrid in a short time. Roses may be 
 budded on stocks of any vigorous sort, and stocks may 
 be raised from the seeds of the dog, or hedge, rose. This 
 is the way in which tall standard rose-trees are obtained. 
 The stocks should be managed in the same way as stocks 
 for fruit-trees. Roses never thrive in poor, and par- 
 ticularly, in shallow ground. They like cool, and some- 
 what stiff ground 3 and you always perceive the hedge 
 roses finest on the sides of land which is too stiff to be 
 arable land. If, therefore, the ground of your shrubbery 
 be of a very light nature, you ought to move it deep for 
 the roses, and to get something of the clayey or marly 
 
SHRUBSGRIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChaP. 
 
 kind to mix with it, it being quite useless to plant the 
 shrub unless it be made capable of bearing flowers, 
 which it will not in a poor hungry soil. Roses may 
 he trained against houses, and especially the Chinese 
 rose. In this case, care should be taken to prune out 
 old wood occasionally, and to shorten the shoots so 
 as to keep the tree in bearing condition. If roses, as 
 standards, are required to be of considerable height, oc- 
 casional pruning must take place to keep the head in 
 order, and to prevent one part from rambling beyond 
 another. All the roses but the Chinese bear upon wood 
 of the last year or some former year ; that is to say, 
 there must be wood of a year old or more for a little 
 shoot to come out of to bear the flowers. The height of 
 your dwarf rose must depend upon that of its surround- 
 ing neighbours : if they be low, as in a flower-border or 
 flower-garden, the roses must be so pruned down in the 
 winter as to leave no part of the shrub more than a foot 
 high, taking care to leave the strongest and best wood : 
 out of this wood come little shoots that bear the roses. 
 A Chinese rose will send out a long shoot from the 
 ground in the spring, which will bear flowers during the 
 same year. If this rose stand in a low border, it must 
 be cut down to within a foot of the ground, or it over- 
 tops every thing in a short time. 
 
 388. SAGE, Jerusalem. — Lat. Phlomis fruticosa. — Fr. 
 Phlomis frutescent. — A hardy shrub of Spain and Sicily, 
 three or four feet high, and blows a yellow flower in 
 July, August, and September. Propagated by dividing 
 the roots, and by sowing in beds prepared for that pur- 
 pose. Not particular as to soil. 
 
VIL LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 rtS-WJOT* 
 
 389. SEA-BVCKTUORN. ■— Lat. Hippophae rhamoTdes, 
 Fr. r Argoussier rhamoide, — A large hardy shrub from the 
 borders of the Mediterranean, and blows in April. Fro*- 
 pagated by layers made in black heath-mould. Any soil 
 suits it, but light soil is best. 
 
 S90. SERVICE-TREE, true.—LRt. Sorbus domestica.-^ 
 •Fr. Sorbier cultiv^.^^A tree common in England, abput 
 fifty feet high, blows a white flower early in the spring, 
 and bears fruit which may be eaten. Propagates itself in 
 forests, and is obtained in gardens by seed, and by graft- 
 ing on the white-thorn. Mountain Ash. — Lat. SoT" 
 
 bus aucuparia. — Fr. Sorbier des oiseleurs. — A tree common 
 jn the north of Europe, not so high as the preceding one, 
 blows clusters of white flowers in May, and bears clusters 
 bf beautiful red berries in the autumn. A most ornamental 
 tree for large pleasure-grounds. Bastard Service- 
 tree. Lat. Sorbus hybrida. — Fr. Sorbier hybride. — A 
 
 tree common in the north of Europe, and differing from 
 the others in its leaves and flowers only ; the former 
 being downy, and the latter smaller. Propagated from 
 seed, and are obtained sooner by grafting on the quincQ 
 or thorn. 
 
 391. SCORPION SENNA.— Lat. Coronilla emerus.^ 
 Fr. Coronille des Jardins. — A shrub originally from thcj 
 south of France, three or four feet high, bearing, in 
 April and June, a yellow flower j and, if dipt with 
 the scissors, will blow, again in the middle of summer. 
 Propagated by seeds or by suckers, or cuttings planted in 
 the open ground early in the autumn. A very pretty 
 plant. for the fronts of shrubberies, ... 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 392. SNOW-DROP TREE, four Mjiw^ed.—Lat. Ha- 
 lesia tetraptera. — Fr. LHaUsia d quatre ailes. — ^A hardy 
 tree of Carolina, twenty or thirty feet high, and blowing 
 a white flower in May. Propagated by seed and by 
 layers which do not firmly take root until the third 
 year. It likes a good soil and will grow freely, 
 
 393. SPINDLE-TREE, common. — Lat. Evonymus 
 Europceiis. — Fr. Fusain d" Europe. — A hardy shrub twelve 
 feet in height, and blows a whitish flower in May. Com- 
 mon in England. Spindle Tree the warted. — Lat. 
 
 Evonymus verrucosus. — Fr. Fusain galeux. — A hardy shrub 
 from Austria. In May blows a flower of a brownish pur- 
 ple. These shrubs are propagated by their seed sown in 
 hVht earth in the shade, or by ripened cuttings struck in 
 the open ground in autumn. Any soil suits them 3 and 
 they suit large pleasure grounds. 
 
 ' 394. SPIR^A, Hawthorn leaved. — Lat. Spiraa crenata. 
 — Fr. Spirie dfeuilles creneUes. — A hardy shrub originally 
 from Siberia, about three feet high, and blows a white 
 
 flower in June and July. SpiruBA, Willow Leaved. — Lat. 
 
 Spiraa salici Folia. — Fr. Spiree d feuilles desaule. — A hardy 
 shrub from North America, about six feet high, and blows 
 
 a purplish red flower in July and August. Spir.ea Ger- 
 
 mander-Ieaved. — Lat. Spircea chamcedrifolia. — Fr. Spirie 
 d feuilles de germandree. — A hardy shrub from 
 Siberia that blows a white flower early in the spring. 
 Spirjea Hypericum Fruteoe. — Lat. Spirtsa Hypericifolia » 
 ' — Fr. Spiree dfeuilles de milleperiius. — A hardy shrub and 
 
 blows a white flower. From America. Spiraea Scarlet, 
 
 — Lat, Spiraa tommentosa, — Fr. Spiree cotoneuse, — A 
 
(VII. LIST OF SHRUBS, 
 
 hardy shrub from America, and blows a red flower. All 
 these are propagated by layers, slips, suckers, cuttings, 
 and, also by seed. Not particular as to soil. Very 
 i desirable shrubs. 
 
 S95. ST. JOHN'S WORT, large Jowered.—hat. Hy- 
 pericum calycinum. — Fr. Millepertius d, grandes fleurs.--^ 
 A hardy perennial from the environs of Constantinople, 
 m^hich blows a yellow flower from June to September. 
 Propagated from seed and by dividing the roots in March. 
 
 tikes a warm situation. St. John's Wort, hairy. •-*. 
 Hit. Hypericum hirsutum. — Fr. Millepertius vein. — ^A 
 l^ardy plant common in Europe, growing three feet 
 high and blowing a yellow flower in July and Au» 
 gust. Propagates its^U, Pretty for the fronts of s^x^ih- 
 beries. 
 
 396. STRAWBERY-TREE, red berried trailing, ^t^i. 
 Arbutus uva ursi, — Fr. Arbousier busserole. — A hardy shrub, 
 common in England. Blows in March and April, a white 
 flower, and bears very pretty red fruit in June. Propa- 
 gated by seed, sown as soon as ripe, in pots, and exposed 
 to the south east till it is up. When the plants are an 
 inch high, they should be planted in little pots till 
 they are strong enough to put into the open earth. They 
 like heath mould and rather a shady situation. Makes a 
 good show on naked banks. 
 
 397. SUMACH, Venice. -Lat. Rhus continus.—Vt. 
 Sumac fustet. — A hardy shrub belonging to Italy and 
 Austria. It is about eight feet high, and blows in July 
 and August. Sumach— vir^iwia»,—Lat. Rhus typhinum. 
 
SHRUBBERIES AXD FLOWER-GARDENS. ClfAP. 
 
 ''^.Sumac de virginie.—A hardy and large shrub from 
 North America. Blows a purplish flower in July, Pro- 
 pagated by seed/ cuttings and suckers. Likes a light soil 
 with a good bottom. Must be sheltered from the high 
 winds. Its chief property is the handsome red colour of 
 its leaves in the fall, and for this it is admitted to the 
 -shrubberies and pleasure gardens of Europe. 
 ,-9k - &^ m 
 
 , S98. SYRINGA, common. — Lat. Philadelphus corona- 
 .rius. — Fr. Syringa odorant. — A hardy shrub of the southern 
 ^parts of Europe, which grows to from four to ten feet 
 high, and blows a white flower in June and July. Pro- 
 pagated by suckers or by dividing the roots in the Autumn, 
 and any soil suits it. Its powerful odour is disliked by 
 many, but there are few shrubberies in which it has not 
 a place. 
 
 3^9. TAMARISK, irenc/i. — Lat. Tamaria? gallica.^^r. 
 Tamaris de France. — A hardy shrub of the south of France, 
 which grows to the height of twelve feet, and blows a 
 purplish white flower from May to October. Propagated 
 by cuttings made in February and put into rich and 
 paoist earth, but they must not be transplanted until the 
 end of the following year or the Spring after that Likes 
 ^moist and warm situation. 
 
 400. TREFOIL, Shrubby.— Lat. Ptelea trifoliata.—^r. 
 PUl^a d trois feuilles. — A shrub from north America, from 
 four to six feet high, and blows in May and June, a green- 
 ish yellow flower. Propagated by seed, cuttings and 
 suckers. As hard frosts injure it when very young, it 
 ehould be put in a sheltered situation. 
 
 / 
 
VII. LIST OF SHRUBS. 
 
 -' 401. THORN, evergreen.-^LiVit. Mespilus pyracajitha.—' 
 Ft, Ne/iier bulsson ardent — /\ shrub from the south of 
 Europe. The flower is white, slightly tinged with rose, 
 fand it blows in May and June. Propagated by seed, 
 grafts, and layers. There are two more sorts, the double 
 and the rose-coloured, which are more rare. 
 
 40^. THUJA, the Chinese.— lja.t, Thuia orientalis.—Fv : 
 Thuia d' orient. — An evergreen tree, originally fiom China, 
 about thirty feet high. Blows in March and April. Fit 
 for pleasure-grounds of considerable size, and shrub- 
 beries. Propagate from seed, and by layers. Thuja, 
 
 the American. — Lat. Thuja occidentalis. — Fr. Thuia d Oc- 
 cident. — A tree belonging to Canada,^ very much like the 
 ))receding one, and blows in February and March. Pro-r 
 pagated by seed sown in a warm place, in good light 
 earth. In about two years they should be transplanted 
 at about two feat apart, and toward the fourth year may 
 be put where they are to remain. They are also propa- 
 gated by layers. Not at all particular as to soil. 
 
 403. TRUMPET FLOWER, ash-leaved, or climbing. 
 \jVii. Bignonia radicans. — Fr. Tecoma grimpant. — A hardy 
 climber of North America, which grows to thirty or forty 
 feet high, and blows a most beautiful scarlet flower in 
 July and August. Propagated by layers or by suckers, or 
 from the seed, and, whilst the plant is young, the root 
 should be covered with straw during the frost. Common 
 garden soil. 
 
 404. TULIP-TREE.— Lat. Liriodendrum tulipifera.— 
 Fr. Tulipier. — This, in fact, in its native country, is an 
 immense timber-tree -, and, in England, where it is 
 
 I 
 
Shrubberies and flower-gardens. Chap 
 
 raised generally from layers, it is frequently seen at the 
 height of forty or fifty feet, and is suited only to such 
 shrubberies as are of great dimensions. It bears a flower 
 in the shape of a tulip : like that of the tulip, the flower 
 has no smell ; but not like that of the tulip, the colours 
 of the flower are not at all interesting : the leaf is very 
 beautiful, and preserves its freshness during the hottest 
 summer. 
 
 405. VERVAIN, three-leaved.— laX. Verbena triphylla 
 
 Fr. Verveine odorante. — A green-house shrub from Chili. 
 Blows a violet-coloured flower from June till August. 
 Propagated by layers and cuttings, in March and April. 
 Requires rich earth, (o be watered frequently during 
 summer, and to be put into a green-house in winter. 
 
 406. VIBURNUM, Laurestine. — Lat. Viburnum tinus,^ 
 Fr. Viorne Laurier-tin. — A hardy evergreen shrub from 
 the south of Europe, and blows in April a cluster of 
 flowers, red in the outside and white within. Propagated 
 by layers, grafifs, and seed. Does well in any soil, grows 
 to six or eight feet high, and is very ornamental in 
 shrubberies and on lawns. 
 
 407. WIDOW- WAIL. — Lat. Cneorum tricoccum. —1 
 Camelee a trois coques. — A little ornamental green-hous6^. 
 shrub, originally from the south of France. It blows in 
 the months of June and July a small yellow flower. 
 Suited to a border of winter shrubs, and propagated by 
 sowing the seed under a frame, and transplanting in light 
 soU and in the shade. In the coldest season it require* 
 shelter* 
 
Mil' rtoi**or FLOWERS. 
 
 ' 408. ZIZYPHUS, or Christ' s-thorn. — Lat. Paliurus 
 mileatus, — Fr. Paliure epineuse. — A hardy shrub from the 
 south of Europe : blows a yellow flower in June and 
 J^y. Propagated by suckers and cuttings, under a 
 band-glass, as well as by seed. Does well in any soil. 
 
 409. It is not right for me to put this list of Shrub* 
 out of my hand without observing that I, by no means, 
 give it as a complete botanical catalogue. I do not 
 write for the curious in botany, but for the use of those, 
 ^r the practical application of those, who have the 
 means and the desire to make pretty spots for their 
 pleasure. I might hare inserted the names of a great 
 multitude of trees and of shrubs which are very curious, 
 but an account of which would have been wholly out of 
 place in a work like this. 
 
 FLOWERS. 
 
 410. These are annual, biennial, and perennial j or 
 fibrous, tuberous, and bulbous. The list that I give below 
 will consist of some of each of these, but they will be ar- 
 ranged alphabetically, and not according to the above 
 distinguishing characters. These are called herbaceous, to 
 [ distinguish them from shrubs which are ligneous, or 
 woody. And, in their uses, it may be said that the one 
 is the flower of the shrubbery, and the other the flower 
 of the border. 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. CllAP. 
 
 ' 411. Flowers are cultivated in beds, where the 
 whole bed consists of a mass of one sort of flower ; 
 or in borders, where an infinite variety of them are 
 mingled together, but arranged so that they may blend 
 with one another in colour as well as in stature. Beds 
 are very little the fashion now, excepting amongst the 
 florists, who cultivate their tulips, hyacinths, and other 
 choice flowers in this manner ; but the fashion has for 
 years been in favour of borders, wherein flowers of the 
 greatest brilliancy are planted, so disposed as to form a 
 regular series of higher and higher as they approach the 
 back part, or the middle, of the border j and so selected 
 as to insure a succession of blossom from the earliest 
 months of the spring until the coming of the frosts. 
 This is easily attained by paying strict attention to the 
 height and time of flowering of plants, both of which I 
 have taken care to notice under each, in the alphabetical 
 list below. In the mixed beds of flowers, there are two 
 things, which, more than all others, tend to give them 
 the desired agreeable appearance : one is, room be- 
 tween the several plants. A mat of the most beautiful 
 flowers in the world, crowded up against each other, and 
 out of all order, never can look like any other than a 
 mass of brilliant weeds. There should be room, and 
 considerable room, too, allowed to every plant; and 
 those plants which spread much, should be carefully kept 
 within their proper bounds. The other, is, the careful 
 tying up of such plants as require it, to sticks of proper 
 height and strength. Many do not want it at all, but 
 many do, and, if this be neglected or put ofi^, a good 
 high wind will tear up the high plants, such as holly- 
 hocks, African marigolds, marvel of Peru, and make them 
 
VII. 
 
 FLOWERS. 
 
 the means of beating down and destroying the lesser and, 
 perhaps, choicer ones below them. 
 
 415. In Chapter IV. I have treated at large of propa- 
 gation and cultivation in general, and, as to the pro- 
 pagation and cultivation of flowers, I may refer my 
 readers to that Chapter for the general knowledge, and, 
 therefore, I shall now only notice a few particulars that 
 I did not go into there. The plants that I enumerate 
 in the following list are propagated either by seed, by 
 cuttings or pipings, by parting the roots or the tubers, or by 
 
 separating the offsets. By seed. The general instructions 
 
 given in Chap. IV. par. 85 to 95, are sufficiently in the 
 
 reader's mind, and I need say no more upon that. 
 
 By cuttings or pipings, and by layers. The instructions for 
 
 striking the carnation fully explain this. By parting the 
 
 roois. This is taking up the plant, we will suppose, 
 of the peach-leaved campanula, and dividing it into 
 as many parts as there are complete crowns ; each of 
 which, if divided so as for it to have a piece of root left 
 with it, and carefully replanted, will become a flowering 
 plant in the spring following the operation. It is performed 
 generally in the autumn. For parting the tubers of 
 of tuberous-rooted plants, see the article " Auricula " or 
 
 Ranunculus.'' By separating the offsets. This is, taking 
 
 off the two or three young bulbs that, on taking up a 
 bulbous root, you find growing at its side, its root being 
 fixed on at the root, and its body curling up round the 
 body, of the mother bulb. Break these off carefully, and. 
 treat them according to the instructions given for each 
 sort under the respective name of each. As to their 
 cultivation, I have spoken so much of it in general, that 
 I will not say any more upon that subject. But there is, 
 
 s 
 
SnBUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP, 
 
 ia this division of horticulture, cultivation in pots and 
 also in glasses. Potting is a very nice operation j it 
 should always be done (as it very frequently is not) in 
 the most careful manner possible. In the first place, the 
 pots that you are about to use should be thoroughly 
 clean, both inside and outside ; for, nothing looks worse 
 than a set of dirty flower-pots, and nothing can thrive in 
 a mass of crusted earth which is often found filling flower 
 pots to a third part of their height, having probably been 
 left in them ever since they were last used. Having a 
 clean pot, put in a handful of broken pot-sherds, put 
 upon this, earth enough to fill the pot a little less than 
 half full, take the plant you are going to put into it, in 
 your left hand, and with as good a ball of earth about its 
 roots as circumstances will admit ; hold it in the pot to 
 see if there be enough, or too much earth in. The earth 
 should rise up about the stem of the plant to where it 
 did before you took it up, and neither higher nor lower : 
 nature shows the exact line at which the root ends and 
 the stem begins; and you must follow this. Place the 
 plant on the earth j hold it steady, while, with your 
 right hand, yeu put in fine earth round the roots so as to 
 touch them in all parts ; that done, take hold of the 
 edges of the pot with your two hands, and rap it gently 
 down on the ground two or three times -, put on a little 
 more earth, and finish by giving a little water, which will 
 cause the earth to settle immediately about the roots. 
 — If your pots be to remain out of doors, place them on 
 a flat surface that has been previously strewed over with 
 coal ashes, and this will prevent worms getting to them. 
 Always observe to keep pots upright, so that the water 
 which you give them may run out, which, unless this be 
 
VII. FLOWERS. 
 
 observed, it will not, and rotting at the root takes place 
 assuredly. Water must be given every day in hot 
 weather, and towards the close of the day. In winter it 
 need not be given so frequently, and it should be in the 
 fore-part of the day, as then the plant has time to imbibe 
 the moisture before the cold of night comes on, which, 
 coming with the water, might hurt if not destroy it. In 
 the winter, the greatest care is necessary to keep out 
 damp j therefore, watering should be very sparingly per- 
 formed, and none splashed about the house or room in 
 .which the plants are kept. When there is any appear- 
 ance of moss on the surface of the earth in the pots, stir 
 it up with a little stick cut in the form of a knife ; break 
 the earth fine, and, if you have any in reserve, strew a 
 little fresh earth over, after taking off that which had 
 become mossy. If there appear mouldiness at the joints 
 of the plants, be sure that there is not air enough given, or 
 that the place is damp. In either case, open the lights 
 .when the sun is out, if it be not exceedingly cold ,• and 
 keep up a steady and moderate fire by night till the place 
 be thoroughly dry. — In glasses filled with water, bulbous 
 roots, such as the hyacinth, narcissus, and jonquil, are 
 blown. The time to put them in is from September to 
 November, and the earliest ones will begin blowing about 
 Christmas. The glasses should be blue, as that colour 
 best suits the roots j put water enough in to cover the 
 bulb one third of the way up, less rather than more j let 
 the water be soft, change it once a week, and put in a 
 pinch of salt every time you change it. Keep the glasses 
 in a place moderately warm, and near to the light. A 
 parlour window is a very common place for them, but is 
 often too warm, and brings on the plants too early, and 
 s2 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 causes them to be weakiy. This should be avoided by 
 all means, as it often causes a fine root to blow badly. 
 Of the narcissus kind, the polyanthus narcissuses are, in 
 my opinion, far the most to be preferred for glasses. 
 
 LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 413. ACONITE, or monk's-hood. — Lat. Aconiium napellus. 
 — Fr. Aconit napeL — A perennial plant from Germany ; 
 which has been long known in English gardens, and is 
 still cultivated, notwithstanding the warnings of Miller 
 and many others, who produce evidence of the poisonous 
 effects of the plant in all its parts j and not only poison- 
 ous when eaten, but even when injudiciously smelled to. 
 There are several sorts of Aconit, but I shall only men- 
 tion this one. Its varieties are, deep blue, white, and red. 
 It flowers in the months of May and June, the flowers 
 coming in a spike at the top of a stalk of three feet 
 high. The leaves are of a shining green, and very much 
 divided. It makes a considerable show in the larger 
 flower-borders 3 likes almost any good soil j and is pro- 
 pagated either by parting the roots in the autumn, or by 
 sowing the seeds in the spring in the flower-nursery. 
 
 414. ADONIS, pheasant's eye. — Lat. Adonis annua. — Fr. 
 Adonide aunuelle.—rkn annual plant, which inliabits the 
 environs of Paris, and a great part of France and 
 Eur(>{)e J and is generally found in fields, and places 
 which are at all wet. The flower is of a deep red, and. 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWEBS. 
 
 the plant is straight and one or two feet high, and 
 blossoms from July to November. It sows itself, but is 
 difficult to transplant, unless done with great care and 
 with a clod of earth at the roots. There is a perennial 
 kind which grows to about the same height as the 
 former, and blows very handsome and larger and yellow 
 flowers. It may be raised by seeds, or by dividing the 
 roots. 
 
 415. AMARYLLIS, yellow. — Lat. Amaryllis Lutea, — 
 Fr. Amaryllis jaune. — A hardy bulbous root of the south 
 of Europe, which blows a yellow flower in September j 
 requires no more care than that ordinarily bestowed on 
 hardy bulbous rooted plants, and is propagated by offsets, 
 which should be nursed tw^o years in a bed appropriated 
 to them. This is the only really hardy kind of this 
 handsome tribe, so much and so justly celebrated by the 
 ancient poets j but there are one or two others, which, 
 though none but those who are curious and careful 
 procure for themselves, are nevertheless easily obtained 
 from the florists who supply us with the choice roots of 
 hyacinth, narcissus, &c. and which I will, therefore, 
 
 mention. The Guernsey Lily — Lat Amaryllis sarni- 
 
 ensis — Fr. Lis de Guernsey — Is a most beautiful autumnal 
 flower, coming in a considerable cluster upon a slender and 
 elegant stem of about twelve inches high. This stem is 
 unaccompanied by leaf j but, grouped with young seedling 
 geraniums, or any other green plants, they make an un- 
 commonly handsome appearance either in a conservatory or 
 in a room. The roots are procured from Guernsey by our 
 floristSjWho import them just as they are about to burst into 
 bloom. Put them immediately in pots having pot-sherds 
 
SHRUBBERIES AXD FLOWER-GARDENS, ChAP. 
 
 at the bottom, and being filled with turfy loam mixed 
 with some sand and a little peat earth. Give water re- 
 gularly ; not much at a time j see that it drains off 
 well J and keep the plant out of the heat of the sun or it 
 will quickly fade.— — -Belladonna Lily. — Lat. Ama- 
 ryllis Bella- Donna.— Fr. BeUadonne «?' Automne. — A 
 larger plant than the last, bearing much larger flowers, 
 hanging downward, five or six in number, and of a pale 
 blush. These are procured in the same manner 3 but 
 sometimes they arrive in England earlier than at other 
 times, according to the season j but about the first week 
 in September you should enquire for them. As they 
 come when just ready to blow, they come in and are 
 gone, almost in a day. This last plant, if put into the 
 ground deep enough, will live through our winters j but 
 it is properly a frame plant. 
 
 416. ANEMONE, single, or poppy. — Lat. Anemone 
 coronaria. — Fr. Anemone des fleiiristes. — A hardy 
 tuberous-rooted plant from the Levant. There are 
 double and single sorts, both equally esteemed by the 
 florists, and both cultivated in the same manner : if from 
 seed, sow in January under a frame, having procured fine 
 earth that has received the frost. Make your bed very 
 fine, and sow the seed pretty thickly over it, and coveY 
 very lightly indeed with the same earth. Do not let 
 there be more than the thickness of a shilling of earth 
 over the seeds j and give very gentle waterings of soft 
 water, from a fine-rosed watering pot, taking care that 
 frost do not penetrate by night, nor the mid-day sun j 
 for either Would destroy the young plants. When the 
 plants are all up and are out in their rough leaves, take 
 
VII. LIST OP FLOWERS, 
 
 off the glasses unless the weather be very severe, and 
 shade from sun by day j give gentle waterings, or admit 
 showers of rain. 'When the leaves of these plants have 
 died away completely (which will be about the end of 
 March), take up every tuber carefully and put them by in 
 drawers, till the next October or November, and then 
 plant them in beds or patches where you mean them to 
 blow in the next spring. If you have sowed them in 
 drills in your bed, you will find it a much easier work to 
 take up the young tubers than if you had sowed them 
 broad cast ; for you easily follow the rows and pick out 
 the little pieces, which it would puzzle you to distinguish 
 from stones when sowed in the other manner. By di' 
 tfiding the roots of anemones you multiply your number 
 very easily. Do this with a sharp knife when you take 
 up your roots that are overblown, cutting them into as 
 many pieces as there are strong and plump buds, each of 
 which will blow strongly the next spring. The soil for 
 the anemone is a good, strong, rich garden mould, and 
 the manure rotten cow or horse dung j but the former is 
 mostly preferred, though neither should be put too close 
 to the roots of the plants, but should be digged in at a 
 foot or a foot and a half below the surface of the ground. 
 Avoid planting in a much exposed situation, for the high 
 winds knock the plants about, and severe frost w^U cause 
 them sometimes to blow less finely than they would do 
 without such. Raise the beds to about three or four 
 inches above the walks, so that rains may not lie upon 
 them J and plant about the latter end of October, though, 
 if your soil be very wet, it may be better to plant later 
 (the middle of February) as the plant has less time to re- 
 main dormant and run the risk of rotting. Put in your 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ClIAP, 
 
 roots at five inches apart every way, making straight 
 drills of about two inches depth for their reception, and 
 taking care to place them in these at even distances, a 
 great deal of the beauty of these beds depending upon 
 regular order ; and, when all the roots are placed in the ^ 
 drills, cover them over up to the edge of the drills with 
 fine earth. The bud, I need hardly say, of the root, or 
 tuber, should be uppermost, and the roots, which will 
 have the appearance of brown coarse threads, down- 
 wards. The anemone, though a very hardy thing, cer- 
 tainly blows the finer if not pinched during its growth by 
 frosts, and it is, therefore, the practice with all the florists 
 to be prepared with a suitable covering of wheaten ar 
 barley straw as the winter approaches, so that the first in- 
 timation of frost is a warning to them to cover over their 
 beds of these and other similar roots. They are, however, 
 careful not to endanger vegetation by keeping these cover- 
 ings on unnecessarily, when they would assuredly cause 
 the roots to become mouldy and eventually rot ; but they , 
 watch for frosty nights, and keep oflF the coverings at all 
 times excepting those. By the end of June, the plants 
 begin dying down, and that is_the time for taking them 
 up, separating such as you mean to separate, and putting 
 all by for the next autumn. 
 
 417. ARCHANGEL, balm-leaved. — Lat. Lamium or- 
 vala. — Fr. Lamier orvale. — A hardy perennial plant of 
 Italy, two feet high, and blows a flower of a pale reddish 
 violet colour, in May, June, and July. Readily increased 
 from suckers, and likes a good rich garden soil. 
 
 418. ARNICA, Corsican, — Lat. Arnica Corsica. — Fr. 
 
v'ir. LIST OP FLOWERS. 
 
 Irnique de corse, — A hardy perennial plant which grows 
 ii tlie mountains of Corsica, and blows a yellow flower 
 n May and June. Propagated by seed and separating 
 he roots. Likes a light loamy soil. Is rather large and 
 $ ?oarse. 
 
 419. ASPHODEL, yellow. — Lat. Asphodelus Luteus. 
 — Fr. AsphodUe jaune. — A perennial plant, originally 
 Tom Sicily. It is four feet high, blows in May, June, 
 ind July, a brilliant yellow flower. It is multiplied by 
 seed, sown in a hot-bed in pots, and is easily propagated 
 by separating its roots. It likes a good moist soil, and 
 I is. very ornamental when in flower. 
 
 420. ASTER, Chinese. — Lat. Aster chinensis. — Fr. 
 Ueine Marguerite. — An annual plant, the height of 
 ti^ich is from one to two feet. A native of China. It 
 blows in August and September. The flowers are 
 variegated with red, purple> violet, &c. and it is the great 
 autumnal ornament of every garden, flowering till the 
 coming of frosts. Propagated by seed, sowed in a hot- 
 bed in the spring ; and, when the plants have five or six 
 l«ives, plant them where they are to remain. The 
 species that are perennial are propagated by separating 
 dieir roots. 
 
 421. AVENS, the water. — Lat. Geum rivale.—Vr. 
 Benaite des ruisseaucc. — An annual plant from the Py- 
 renees and the Alps, which is one foot high, and blows a 
 yellow flower in June. Propagated by sowing the seed 
 in open ground in the shade, or by separating the roots 
 
 65 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChaI 
 
 in September or February. It does in any soil, but likes j 
 a moist and sliady situation best. 
 
 422. AURICULA.— Lat. Primula Auricula.— Yr. 
 
 Oreille d'ours. — A florist's flower, propagated by seed, 
 
 rooted slips, and offsets. It is a native of Switzerland, 
 
 but has been long a favourite plant with English, Dutch, 
 
 and French florists. It is hardy, but, like the anemone 
 
 and ranunculus, blows the better for care and protection 
 
 in severe winters, and in the heat of summer. If you 
 
 propagate from seed, sow in earthen pans or in boxes in 
 
 December, or in March, and cover very lightly ; give an 
 
 eastern aspect, and water gently now and then. When the 
 
 plants have five or six leaves, transplant them into other 
 
 boxes or pans, and let them have the same management j 
 
 and, when they become strong, put them out in your 
 
 borders, where, when they flower, you can choose the 
 
 most fitting for the purpose of potting. Slips you pull 
 
 off with your hands, and offsets cut off with a sharp 
 
 knife j both in the end of July, or beginning of August. 
 
 The soil most suitable to this plant is a cool vegetable 
 
 one J and the artificial mixtures are very numerous, but 
 
 the one in most general use is half fresh garden mould 
 
 and half well-rotted cow-dung. A little sea sand thrown 
 
 in amongst it keeps it free. Auricula pots should be six 
 
 inchefs deep, and as large in circumference at the bottom 
 
 as at the top ; water only in dry times 3 and, in continued 
 
 wet, lie the pots on their sides, unless you have a covered 
 
 stage for them. Wooden bars to stand the pots on are 
 
 very useful. They prevent too great a moisture getting 
 
 at the roots of the plant, which is the case when the pots 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 Stand on the ground, and they also prevent the worms 
 getting in. A slight covering during the frosts of winter 
 is necessary for a fine blow. Those plants which are 
 planted out in the border should be taken up and parted 
 every three years, or they become weak, blow but little,, 
 and shortly die. 
 
 423. BALSAM. — Lat. Impatietis halsamina. — Fr. Bol- 
 sarmne des Jardins. — From the East Indies. A most 
 beautiful, but rather tender, annual plant. Well known 
 to almost every body, and almost universally cultivated, 
 imd is very ornamental in the flower borders, in the green- 
 house and in the parlour. It blows in July, August, and 
 September, double and single flowers, red, pink, white, 
 or variegated. The best way of propagating is by 
 sowing the seed early in March in a moderate hot-bed. 
 By April, the plants must be potted off singly, and then 
 struck in the hot-bed again j then accustom them by de- 
 grees to the open air, and early in May put them out 
 into the borders, or put them into large pots 3 according 
 „ you design them to blow. In a fine warm summer 
 { they will be finer in the open" air than in the green-hou!» 
 or stove ; less drawn up, and bearing flowers larger and fer 
 more abundant, and, towards the fall they will ripen seed 
 in abundance, which should be carefully gathered every 
 evening. The pods should be very cautiously approached 
 for this purpose, as, if ripe, they fly in pieces instantly, 
 flft being touched, and scatter the seed in all directions. 
 8^ that the pod be a little yellow before you gather it, 
 piiild then fold your hand round it, and let it fly open 
 iWthin your fingers. But, to return to the plants, these 
 will Oliver want water after they are once well rooted in 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. CbaF. 
 
 the open ground j but a little stirring of the ground 
 round them has a great effect on their growth. Those 
 that you keep in pots will^ of course, want some water, 
 but not a great deal j and they should be kept from 
 the scorching sun. Good garden soil suits them best. 
 
 424. BARREN- WORT.— Lat. Epimedium Alpinum. 
 Fr. Epimede des Alpes. — ^A perennial plant, and an in- 
 habitant of the mountains of the south of Europe. 
 It is a foot high, and in April and May blows a- 
 flower, the exterior of which is red, and the in- 
 terior yellow. It is easily propagated by separating 
 the roots, and it likes good moist earth and a shady 
 situation. 
 
 4^5. BEAR'S EAR.-^ Lat. Cortusa matthioli. — Fr. 
 Cortuse de matthiole. — A perennial frame plant of the 
 Alps, five or six inches high, and blows a pink flower, 
 partaking of the violet, in May. Propagated by dividing 
 the roots, and should be cultivated in heath-mould. 
 
 426. BIRTHWORT, the common.— hdA. ArlstolodUa 
 clematitis. — Fr. Aristoloche. — A perennial plant very 
 common in England. It is about two feet high, the 
 flower of a pale yellow, and blows in May and July. 
 
 Propagated by separating the roots. Birthwobt, the 
 
 long. — Lat. Aristolochia longa. — Fr. Aristoloche longue. 
 A perennial plant which blows from June till October. 
 The flower is of a red brown at the top, and a bluish 
 violet at the bottom. It is a native of the south of 
 France. Propagated by separating the roots, which have 
 a strong aromatic odour. 
 
I 
 
 Vn. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 . 427. BULBOCODIUM. — Lat. Bulbocodium vernum.. 
 — Fr. Mbrendirehulbocode. — A bulbous rooted plant from 
 the Pyrenees, that blows a light purple flower in March. 
 Should be moved in July. Likes heath-mould, and ra- 
 ther a shady situation. 
 
 428. CACALIA, sow-thistle leaved. — Lat. Cacalia 
 sanctifolia. — Fr. Cacalia a feuilles de laiteron. — An 
 annual stove plant from the East Indies, growing one 
 foot high, and blowing a flower of an orange red colour 
 in July. Propagated from seed sowed in a frame in 
 March. Requires very little water, and should be kept 
 (Hit of the house during the summer. 
 
 429. • Lat. Cactus spiciosus. — Fr. Cactier 
 
 Slegant. — A perennial succulent plant from Carthagena ; 
 tiirows up many long fleshy leaves festooned at the 
 sides, and, in June and July, blows an exceedingly beau- 
 tiful rose-coloured flower, about three inches long, and 
 double. This plant likes a mixture of light mould and 
 brick rubbish. Requires very little water except when 
 in flower, and must be brought .forward in the green- 
 house, or frame ; though, in a very warm room to the 
 south, it will blow. Force it into flower by bruising the 
 ends of the leaves 5 and propagate by cuttings, which, 
 being left in a dry place for a day or two till the cut end 
 become dry, and then stuck in a pot of mould, will 
 strike quickly j but these will not flower for a couple of 
 years. 
 
 430. CALTROPS, small— Lat. Tribulus terrestris.—- 
 Fr. Tribulus haisse. — A hardy annual plant from the south 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS; ChAP. 
 
 of Europe, and blows a yellow flower in June and July. 
 Propagated by sowing seed in a hot-bed, and, when they 
 are fit, transplanting them where they are to remain. 
 
 431. CAMPANULA, the pyramid. — Lat. Campanula, 
 pyramidalis. — Fr. Campanule pyramidale, — From Savoy. 
 A perennial plant of great beauty, which grows to about 
 four or five feet in height, with several minor branches, 
 the main one blowing a long spike, or pyramid, of de- 
 licate sky-blue flowers, in the months of July and August. 
 Propagated by seed, and by parting the root. The 
 seed should be sowed in the spring in a bed of fine earth% 
 under a hand-glass, shaded from the strong heat of the 
 sun^ and watered now and then with a fine^rosed watering 
 pot. The seed comes up readily if not covered deeply, and, 
 by the fall, the plants will be fit to transplant into a nursery 
 bed, where they should remain until the following spring, 
 when some of them may be thinned out to be planted in 
 the flower-borders, where they may blow the same year j 
 and the rest, being carefully tilled between, will be fae 
 strong phmts by the third year, and may all be put out 
 in the same manner, or potted in large wide-topped pots 
 to be brought into the house, where they make a very 
 fine show. By parting the roots after the first year of 
 blowing, you multiply your plants, and each plant that 
 you take off is the stronger for being severed ; but the 
 plants thus used decline every year j therefore, keep up 
 a succession of plants from the seed, by all means. As to 
 soiU this plant is not very particular, though it likes a 
 good mould j but it is very particular in its aversion to 
 manure, which is destruction to it. It is one of 
 the most ornamental plants that can be conceived, ^nd 
 
Vn. LIST OP TLOWERS. 
 
 suits any situation well. Campanula or Canterbury 
 
 Bell. — Lat. Campanula medium. — Fr. Campanule a grosses 
 jieurs, or violette marine.— -k very pretty German plant j 
 throws up numerous branches in April and May, gar- 
 nished thickly with long and hairy leaves, and in June 
 and July, blows abundance of very handsome pendulous 
 ffowers, either white or light blue j larger than a com- 
 mon thimble, but somewhat resembling one in shape. It 
 is biennial, and should be sowed every spring either in a 
 hot-bed or not, according to convenience, and Xhen 
 pricked out when it comes into rough leaf. So let it re- 
 main till the autumn, when you will plant it either in the 
 borders or in the pots where you intend it to blow.—* — 
 Campanula, peach-leaved. — Lat. Campanula persicifolioi — 
 Fr. Campanule d feuilles de pecker. — The last of the Cam- 
 panulas that I shall mention. It is a native of the northern 
 paVts of Europe -, a perennial plant that also sends up a 
 great many shoots in the spring of the year, and bears 
 flowers of the same colours as the last, but some 
 are double and some single, and all are much broader at 
 the orifice than those of the last-mentioned plant, but 
 are shorter in length. Propagate by dividing the roots j 
 or, more tediously, by sowing the seeds as soon as ripe. 
 All these plants are handsome, and should form a part of 
 the collection of every one who aims at having an attrac- 
 tive flovyer-garden ; and no one of them, but the first, is 
 pcHticular as to soil. 
 
 4.^2. CAMPION, the rose. — Lat. Agrostema coronarioi — 
 Fr. Coquelourde des jardins. — A plant originally from 
 Lyons and Italy, one or two feet high, and blowing 
 a bright red flower from June to September. 0\h&c 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChaP* 
 
 x-arieties have white and double flowers. Propagated 
 by sowing the seed as soon as ripe, in light earth 
 exposed to the sun, and planting out the following March. 
 Also by sowing in a hot-bed or in borders in the spring. 
 Is hardy, and will sow itself when in a warm and dryish 
 soil. 
 
 433. CANDY-TUFT, the 'purple.— h^i. Iberis umbel- 
 lata. — Fr. Iheride eu ombelle. — An annual plant from the 
 south of France. About two feet high, and blows, in 
 June and July, a great abundance of purplish flowers. 
 Propagated by seed sown in beds, where it is to blow. 
 Any soil suits it, and it is very ornamental. 
 
 434. CARNATION.— Lat. Dianthus caryophyllus.^Vr. 
 VOeillet des Jieuristes. — An indigenous plant ; a perennial, 
 but one that has been improved by the great care that flo- 
 rists have bestowed upon it for many years. It is, indeed, 
 by many esteemed the finest of flowers, next after the 
 tulip ; which it surpasses in one respect, that of adding 
 great fragrance to great beauty. It is cultivated either in 
 beds, borders, or pots: in the latter for the parlour chiefly; 
 and it is propagated by layers, pipings, or seed. It blows 
 from July to August, flowers of from two to three, or even 
 four inches diameter, of divers colours, and either single, 
 semi-double, or double. But there are three distinct 
 varieties j which are, the Flake, the Bizarre, the PkotSe. 
 The flake has two colours only, and their stripes are 
 large ; the bizarre is variegated with spots and stripes 
 irr^ilarly, and has not less than three colours ; the 
 picot^e has mostly a white ground spotted with scarlet, 
 red^ purple, pink, or some variety of these colours. The 
 
VII. LTST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 Stalk of the carnation should rise to near three feet, and 
 the bud should be long and uniform, not bursting but at 
 its top to let out the flower, or, if appearing likely to 
 burst at the side, it is as well to open corresponding 
 apertures at two other places, so as to let out the 
 flower evenly all round. The plant is hardy, but to blow 
 well, it should be defended from excess of wet, especially 
 the wet of the beginning of winter, as it renders it more 
 susceptible of frost 3 and yet it is necessary to avoid 
 stifling it. It cannot do without a free circulation 
 of air, therefore whatever covering of mats or otherwise 
 you use, be careful to keep it off at all times but in con- 
 stant rain. To propagate by layers, take some compost 
 of one of the two kinds that I mention below as proper 
 for this plant ; stir the ground with a small hoe round 
 the plant from which you are going to make your layers, 
 and place the compost rx)und on the newly-moved earth ; 
 then take as many of the stalks as you mean to lay (let 
 it be about the time of their being in full bloom) j fix 
 your knife (a sharp narrow-bladed one) in at an inch 
 below the third joint from the blossom, and bring it up 
 the middle of the stalk until you enter the joint, which 
 you must scarcely divide in two : there stop, then, and 
 pull out your knife. Bend down the stalk to the earth, 
 and make a little drill with your two fore-fingers of one 
 hand, sufficient to hide the whole of the split and a little 
 more at each end of it ; put a little wooden peg with a 
 hook to it into the side of the drill, and push it into the 
 ground so far as for it to come down and fix the stalk at 
 the bottom of the drill where you are holding it, and then 
 cover over with compost, pressing it gently down with 
 the flat of your hand. By pipings, about the first of July, 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. CbAV. 
 
 take the two top joints of a branch, which are the fittest 
 for this purpose j cut off immediately below the second 
 joint, and with a sharp instrument ; peel ofiF the outer 
 loose skin from the joint, and make a little split up it for 
 about two eighths of an inch ; shorten the leaves a little 
 way above the upper joint, and this will leave your piping 
 about two inches long. Having procured the number of 
 pipings that you mean to plant, throw them into a basin 
 of rain water to soften them. You will now have to 
 plant them, either in the open ground, or on a hot-bed ; 
 but, in either case, you must cover them with a hand- 
 glass, or a striking-glass, which is a small hand-glass, not 
 more than eight or ten inches square. On a gentle hot- 
 bed is best, the mould being one third maiden earth, one 
 third leaf-mould, one third well rotted horse-dung, and 
 with a sprinkling of sharp sand amongst it. Place your 
 glass down where you are going to put the pipings, and 
 thus mark out the space ; then take your pipings out of 
 the basin and force them, one by one, into the mould to 
 about three parts of an inch of their length, and let 
 them be an inch apart from one another. Do not put 
 on the glass till all the leaves and stalks are dry, for they 
 would inevitably rot if you were to do this. When they 
 are dry, however, put on the glass, making its edges fit 
 exactly into the mark that you made by its means before 
 you began planting, and thus you will not disturb or 
 crush any of the outer pipings. Thrust the edges of the 
 glass down a little way into the earth, so that no air can 
 get in. This is what the French call st'i/iing. Shade by 
 means of netting or matting from the sun, but yet do 
 not exclude its rays completely. It is in giving air, light, 
 and moisture, at this time, and for the following three 
 
 I 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 weeks, that the greatest skill is required. If the piping* 
 appear to be doing well, that is, looking of a good co- 
 lour and not contracting mould, let the glass stand for 
 about ten days without being moved ; but, unless the 
 weather be wet, water over the glass every morning. At 
 the end of ten days, take it off •, let it be early in the 
 morning if the weather be dry and hot ; and turn the 
 glass upside down that it may become aired. If you 
 perceive any pipings beginning to mould, pull them up 
 instantly 5 give a little water through a fane rose j let the 
 plants dry again perfectly, and then again put on the 
 glass. The weather being fovourable, give air every 
 morning for half an hour or an hour ; but never shut up 
 whilst the pipings are wet 3 and, if you have showery 
 weather, give air between showers, if it be but for five 
 minutes of a morning. In about six weeks they will be 
 fit to transplant into small potsj make use of the sanae 
 sort of mould ; plunge the pots, or simply stand them, 
 in another gentle bed, and put frames or hand-glasses 
 over them till your plants have struck again 5 and here tliey 
 may remain till September, when you pot them or plant 
 theiTi out. If you perform this work in the open ground, 
 choose a spot under a wall facing the east, where none 
 but the morning sun comes ; use the same preparation of 
 mould, and use a hand-glass, acting in all respects as 
 prescribed in case of a hot-bed. Pot off your plants in 
 the month of March following ; using pots of about 
 twelve inches wide at top, and eight inches wide at 
 bottom J these should have good clean circular holes at 
 the bottoms, and, beside, two or three smaller holes in 
 their sides at about two inches from the bottom -, and 
 these effectually prevent water remaining about the roots 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 of the plants. The same soil that you struck your 
 plants in will do to blow them in. I will here give 
 Miller's direction for a mixture, and then proceed to the 
 propagating by seed : " take mould from a good upland 
 pasture, or a common that is of a hazel earth ; dig out 
 earth from the first eight inches from the surface ; let 
 this be laid in a heap to mellow for one year j then mix 
 a third part of rotten neat's dung, or dung of an old 
 cucumber bed ; mix them well together, turn the heap 
 every moflth for eight months, and it will be fit for use." 
 By seed. The seed of the carnation does not every sum- 
 mer ripen in England 3 but seed is procured from the 
 continent in abundance. Sow in pots of light earth, or on 
 a cool bed with a frame over it, in the month of April j 
 and cover in in the slightest possible manner. Shade the 
 young plants from hot sun -, and, when they have six 
 leaves, prick them out two or three inches asunder, in a 
 well-prepared bed of the garden. The next year they 
 will tiovver, and, therefore, should be planted out, or 
 potted for blowing, in the fall of their first year's 
 growth. Lastly, the carnation is greatly the prey of 
 ear-wigs, so much so, that precautions the most careful 
 are always resorted to to prevent the plants falling a sa- 
 crifice to these mischievous vermin. See paragraph 308. 
 
 435. CATCHFLY,pi«A:.— Lat. Silene armeria.—¥T. Si- 
 lene a, bouquets. — A hardy annual plant, common in Pro- 
 vence, about a foot high, and blows a pink or white 
 flower throughout the summer. Propagated by sowing 
 the seed where it is to grow. Likes a light, sandy, and 
 warm soil. 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 436. CENTAURY, or sweet sultan.— hat, Centaurea 
 moschata. — Fr. Centauree musque. — A hardy annual plant 
 from the Levant, about two feet high, and blows a 
 
 purple flower in July and August. Centaury, or 
 
 yellow sweet sultan. — Lat. Centaurea suaveolens Fr. Cen- 
 
 taurce odorante. — A hardy annual plant from the Levant, 
 one or two feet high, and blowing a yellow flower in 
 July and August. Propagated by sowing in pots or in 
 a bed, and planting out when the young plants are large 
 enough. 
 
 437. CHRYSANTHEMUM, Indmn. —'Ld.i, Chrysanthe- 
 mum indicum. — Fr. Chvfjsan theme d'automne. — A peren- 
 nial plant of China and India, which grows three feet 
 high, and blows beautiful deep purple, white, and yellow 
 flowers in November and December. Propagated by 
 dividing the roots in spring, or by cuttings in summer, 
 and requires moving every two years, and good rich land. 
 
 — Chrysanthemum, corn marygold. — Lat. Chrysanthe- 
 mum segetum. — ^Fr. Chrysantheme des hies. — An annual plant, 
 common amongst wheat, which grows one foot high, and 
 blows a yellow flower in July. Propagated by sowing. 
 
 — Chrysanthemum, garden. — Lat. Chrysanthemum corb- 
 narium. — Fr. Chrysantheme des jardins — An annual plant 
 from the south of France, which grows two or three feet 
 high, and blows a yellow or white flower in July, August, 
 and September. Propagated by sowing the seed where 
 it is to blow. 
 
 438. CHELONE.— Lat. Chelone barbata.—Fr. Galane 
 barbue. — A perennial plant, originally from Mexico, which 
 blows a beautiful red flower in July and August. Rather, 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ClIAP.' 
 
 tender. About three feet high. Chelone, the hell- 
 flowered Lat. Chelone campanulata. — Fr. Galane compcmu' 
 
 Ue A perennial plant from Mexico, which blows, in 
 
 July and August, a red flower. About a foot high. 
 
 C«EL0NE, the downy. — Lat. Chelone pensthemon. — Fr. 
 Galane d. Jleurs paniculees. — A perennial plant from Vir- 
 ginia. It is about a foot high, and blows, in July and 
 August, a flower which is yellow in the inside and a light 
 purple on the outside. They are all three multiplied by 
 seed, as well as by separating their roots, in the autumn. 
 They are not very delicate, but it is best to give them a 
 moist earth and shady situation. 
 
 439. CINERARIA, or rag-wort. — Lat. Cineraria marii' 
 tima. — Fr. Cineraire maritime. — A perennial plant from the 
 sea-coasts of Provence and Languedoc. Grows two 
 feet high, and blows a shaded yellow flower from June 
 to September. Propagated by suckers and by seeds } 
 if the latter, it blows the second year. It should have a 
 rich soil. 
 
 440. CISTUS, common dwarf , or little sun-flower Lat. 
 
 C^tus helianthemum. — Fr. Heliantheme commiin. — A per- 
 ennial plant from the south of France, blows a yellow 
 flower from May till September. There are varieties j 
 v^ite and rose-coloured, and all hardy, and are easily in- 
 creased from the seed, which should be brought forward 
 in pots. 
 
 441. COLCHICUM, or meadoW'-saffron.—'L&t. Colchi- 
 cum autumnale.—Fv. Colchique d' automne. — A bulbous 
 plant common in Europe, about three or four inches 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 highj and blows a reddish purple flower in September 
 and October. Propagated from offsets, taken off when 
 the leaves are quite dead, and planted in July or the 
 beginning of Augus't. It is common in the upland 
 meadows of Herefordshire, and other counties of England. 
 
 44'2. COLUMBINE. — Lat. Aquilegia vulgaris.— Fr. An- 
 colie cles Jardins. — A perennial plant, commonly found in 
 gardens, two or three feet high, and blows a blue, red, or 
 variegated flower in June and July. It likes shade and 
 stiff earth, and is propagated by dividing the roots in 
 the autumn. The single flower may be obtainedby 
 sowing the seeds ; but, if sown in the spring, they seldom 
 come up, and never till the next year. 
 
 443. COMFREY-LEAVED HOUND'S-TONGUE.— 
 
 Lat. Cynoglossum omphalodes Fr. Cynoglosse printanniere. 
 
 — A perennial plant, originally from Piedmont and Por- 
 tugal, about three or four inches high, and blowing a 
 blue flower in March. Propagated by dividing the tufts, 
 in which it grows, after it has flowered. Likes a fresh 
 soil, and requires water in very dry weather. 
 
 444. CONVOLVULUS MINOR.— Lat. Convolvulus 
 
 tricolor. — Fr. Liseron tricolor A hardy trailing annual 
 
 plant from Sicily, which blows a shaded blue and white 
 flower in June, July, and August. Propagated by sowing the 
 
 seetl in light and rather warm earth.^ Convolvulus 
 
 Major. — Lat. Convolvulus purpureus. — ^Fr. Ipomee pourpre. 
 — An annual climber, of great beauty. Grows eight or 
 nine feet high, if it have sticks of that height given it to 
 run up, and blows, from July to September, a beautiful 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 bell-shaped purple or white flower, in great abundance, 
 but open only in the mornings and evenings of the hot 
 months of July and August. Sow in April where it is to 
 stand, or in March in pots to transplant. Sow some in 
 pots to bring into the house ; but in no case have more, 
 than two plants in one spot, as they branch out and 
 become so heavy that winds and rains tear them about 
 and endanger other neighbouring plants by their means.. 
 Stake them as soon as they are beginning to run, and. 
 cut away straggling branches that they will send out 
 from the bettom. Their height sufficiently proclaims 
 them a plant to be placed in the back part of the flower- 
 border. 
 
 445. COREOPSIS, ear-leaved Lat. Coreopsis auricu^ 
 
 lata. — Fr. Coreopsis auriculee A hardy perennial of North 
 
 America, three or four feet in height, and blows a yellow 
 flower from August to September. Coreopsis, alter- 
 nate-leaved. — Lat. Coreopsis delphinifolia. — Fr. Coreopsis d 
 
 feuiUes de dauphin elle. — A perennial plant of North Ame- 
 rica, eighteen inches high, and blows a yellow flower 
 from July till October. Both sorts propagated by di- 
 viding their roots. Any soil suits them, but they like an 
 open situation. 
 
 446. CORIS, Montpellier. — Lat. Coris monspeliensis. — Fr. 
 Coris de montpellier. — A biennial frame plant of the coast 
 of the south of France, seven or eight inches high, and 
 blows a pretty red flower in May and June. Propagated; ; 
 by seed sowed in pots in the spring, and likes a light and. 
 sandv soil, and but little water. 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 447. CORN-FLAG. — Lat Gladiolus communis.— ¥r, 
 Glayeul commun, — A perennial plant from the south of 
 France, one or two feet high, and blows, in July, a 
 purplish flower. It likes a good and rather light soil, and 
 a warm situation. Propagated by offsets. It i.s prudent 
 to cover the roots in hard winters. 
 
 448.- COWSLIP. — Lat. Primula vem.— Fr. Pri- 
 mevere officinale. — A hardy perennial plant, common 
 in meadows all over England. It blows a pale yellow 
 flower in April and May. Propagated by separating the 
 roots, also by seed, sown in November and December, 
 in shallow pots full of good light earth. The seed sown 
 on the surface of this earth should be lightly covered 
 with sandy, or heath-mould, and the pots exposed to the 
 east. Should remain a year in the pots, and be planted 
 
 out in the spring. Cowslip, Virginian. — Lat. 
 
 Dodecailieon meadia. — Fr. Gyroselle cultivee. — A perennial 
 plant from Virginia, which is about eight or nine inches 
 high, and blows in April or May. It does very well in the 
 open ground, and when kept in a house in pots, it should 
 be exposed to the air in mild weather. It likes good 
 earth, mixed with rotten dung. Propagated by separat- 
 ing the roots every three or four years. 
 
 449. CREPIS, or Hawk's beard, purple.— hat. Crepis 
 rubra. — Fr. Crepide rouge. — ^A hardy annual plant of the 
 south of France, about eight or ten inches high, and 
 blows a purple flower in June and July. Propagated by 
 sowing in borders in the spring, and planting out when 
 [:he plants have a few leaves. 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChaP. 
 
 450. CROCUS.— Lat. C. vernus.—Fr. Safran Printanier. 
 — Indigenous bulb ; and one of the earliest ornaments of 
 our flower-gardens. There are several varieties j yellow, 
 pale yellow, blue, striped, and white. All are handsome, 
 but none make so great a show in the border as the deep ; 
 yellow, which should always be planted in clumps often i 
 or a dozen plants in a clump, the bulbs at three inches 
 from one another, and the clumps should be in the front 
 of borders in which there are shrubs, or between the 
 shrubs so as not to be out of sight. Planting them in 
 long rows spoils the effect 5 but having alternate clumps 
 of yellow and blue gives an additional variety, and adds 
 somewhat to the gaiety always produced by this hand- 
 some little plant. Do not cut off the leaves of your 
 crocuses when they are overblown j as this only weakens 
 the plant. Move them when their leaves are dying down 
 in autumn, but not more than once in three years. Sepa- 
 rate the offsets then, which you will find abundant, and 
 thus, with little trouble, you propagate them. The crocus 
 likes a good, rather light, and not wet, garden soil j and 
 it should be planted two inches deep in the ground. 
 
 451. CYCLAMEN, or sow- bread. —Lat. Cyclamen Euro- 
 paum. — ^Fr. Cyclamen d'Europe. — A perennial frame plant 
 from Austria, Blows, in April, a flower that is white, 
 shaded with pink. Propagated by seed, sowed as soon as 
 gathered. Likes a sheltered situation, and a south-east 
 aspect. Does best in heath-mould. Blows the third or 
 fourth year after sowing. 
 
 452. DAFFODIL, the onion-leaved. — Lat. Jsphodelus 
 fisiulosus. — Fr. Asphodelejistuleuse. — A perennial plant, and 
 
VII. 
 
 LIST OP FLOWERS. 
 
 a native of the south of France. Its height is about two 
 feet, it blows from June till September ; the flower is 
 white with a red stripe. It is multiplied by the seed, 
 sown in pots, and put into a hot-bed ; and it is easily 
 propagated by separating its roots. It likes a good 
 moist soil. 
 
 4.53. DAHLIA.— Lat. and Fr. Dahlia.— k hardy tube- 
 rous perennial plant, originally from Mexico. It grows 
 to the height of ten or twelve feet in rich land, and blows 
 a large handsome flower, red, yellow, white, primrose, 
 purple or scarlet, in September, continuing till the setting 
 in of frosts. The height to which it grows renders it 
 ; unfit for almost any garden, but the beauty of some of 
 the double varieties, such as the primrose for instance, 
 eauses it to be often found even in the smallest flower- 
 gardens. For extensive parterres, the outer rows of 
 shrubberies, and for corners that want hiding, this is a 
 magnificent plant ; and it is also to be kept to a mode- 
 rate height, but only by putting it in unmanured and 
 poor soil. The poorer the soil, the lower it will be j and 
 yet it will blow well in such. Always keep it, when in a 
 growing state, tied to good high and stout stakes. Pro- 
 pagate by parting the root ; for from seed, though you 
 procure fresh varieties, you lose the sort that you saved 
 your seed from. When the stems begin to be nipped by 
 the frosts, dig up the plants carefully, separate-the oflfsets 
 from the mother- roots, place them all in a dry place, and 
 as much apart as is convenient. Take care that frosts do 
 not get at them, and plant again in April. 
 
 , 
 
 *' 454. DAISY. — Lat. Bellis perennis. — Fr. Paqueretie. — 
 t2 
 
J 
 
 SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChA 
 
 Indigenous and perennial. Varieties are pale red, (Jeep 
 red, green hearted, variegated, and white, and it is used 
 for edgings, but is a very poor thing for the purpose. It 
 is a pretty little plant, nevertheless, and, in little clumps, 
 parted every year in order not to degenerate, it adds to 
 the beauty of the front rows of the flow^er-border. Pro- 
 pagated only by parting the roots, in February or March. 
 
 455. DEVIL-IN-A-BUSH.— Lat. Nigella Damasvena. 
 — Fr. Nigelle de Dames. — is about two feet high j blows a 
 sky-blue flower from June till September. Propagated 
 by seed, sown where it is to remain. Likes a warm 
 situation. Native of the south of France, and an annual. 
 
 456. DOG'S-BANE. — Lat. Cynachum monspeliachvm,—^ 
 
 Fr. Cynaque de Montpellier A plant originally from Mont- 
 
 pellier, which blows a pale pink, or whitish flower, in 
 July and August. Propagated by suckers : should have 
 a light and warm soil, a good situation, and its roots 
 covered in hard frosts. 
 
 457. DRAGONS-HEAD.— Lat. Dracocephalum Aus- 
 triacum. — Fr. Dracocephale d' Autriche. — From the south 
 of Europe, perennial, from eight inches to a foot high, 
 sending up numerous stems, and blowing tufts of blue or 
 red flowers in July and August. Likes good rich earth, 
 and is easily multiplied by parting the roots, or by sow- 
 ing in beds. Should be separated at least every three 
 years. ^^"^ 
 
 458. . Lat. Dolichos purpureus. — Fr. Doliqite. — 
 
 A pretty climber of the East Indies ; grows ten or 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS, 
 
 twelve feet hi^h if trained up a frame or a string ; arid 
 blows a beautiful pale lilac pendulous flower in June and 
 July. Propagated by cuttings planted under a hand- 
 glass, or by seed, which ripens freely. 
 
 459. EGG-PLANT. — Lat. Solanum melongena.— Fr. 
 Morelle melongene. — An annual plant, originally fro not 
 Asia and America. About fifteen inches in height, and 
 4)lows white or violet flowers in June and July. Bears a 
 fruit which is eaten, but it is raised here only for the 
 curiosity of the egg-shaped fruit which it bears. It 
 likes a light rich soil, and is readily procured by sowing 
 the seeds. 
 
 E. 
 
 60. FIG, the common Indian. — Lat. Cactus opuntia. — ^Fr. 
 Cactier Raquette. — From America, where it grows on 
 rocky places, and dry hills, and, in the month of July, 
 blows a yellow flower. This is a green-house plant in 
 England. It is very succulent, and should not be much 
 watered except during the time that it is flowering, and 
 then it may have more water. Cuttings root readily 
 in pots. Perennial. 
 
 461. FOX-GLOVE, lesser yellow. —L^X. Digitalis par- 
 vijiora. — Fr. Digitate d. petites fleurs. — A perennial plant 
 from Italy, two or three feet high, and blows a yellow 
 flower in June and July. Propagated from seed, and 
 sows itself. — —Common Fox-glove. — Lat. Digitalis pur- 
 purea. — Fr. Digitals pourpre. — A biennial plant, found 
 commonly in England, two or three feet high, and blows 
 a purplish red flower in June, July, August and September. 
 There is a white variety of this species j both are very 
 
J 
 
 SHRUBBERIES AND FJ.OWER-GARDEXS. ChA 
 
 ornamental, and are propagated by seeds, sown add 
 otherwise managed, just as you do the Canterbury belli 
 which see. 
 
 462. FRAXINELLA, or white Dittany — Lat. Dictam^ 
 uus albus. — Fr. Dictamne fraxinelle. — A perennial plant 
 originally from the south of France, about two feet high, 
 and blows a white or purple, flower, in June and 
 July. Propagated by sowing the seed in borders, or in 
 pots, as soon as it is ripe. If not sowed till the spring, 
 it does not come up till the second year. When the 
 plants can be moved, they must be put in a nursery to 
 stay two or three years before being planted where they 
 are to stay. When the roots are strong enough, parts 
 may be taken ofiP, but they seldom allow of it. The 
 fraxinella affords scarcely any flower till the fifth year 
 after sowing j but its flowers are so abundant and so 
 handsome, its leaves so rich in colour and in odour, and 
 the whole plant is so elegant, that, where you cannot 
 procure roots, it well deserves the pains and the patience 
 necessary to procure it from seed. It likes a good soil, 
 and, in the winter, requires a covering of litter after the 
 stalk has died down. 
 
 463. FRITILLARY, crown imperial. — Lat. Fritillaria 
 imperialis. — Fr. Couronne imperiale. — A large plant from 
 Persia, near three feet high, proceeding from a large, 
 nearly round, scaly bulb of nauseous smell. It blows in 
 April, a red flower hanging downwards, like a tulip 
 turned down. Another variety blows a yellow flower ; 
 and this latter is by far the handsomest. Propagate by 
 parting the offsets every two or three years ; take up the 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 plants in July, long before which time the stalks will 
 have died down j take off what offsets may appear at the 
 sides of the mother bulbs, and then keep them all in a 
 dry place till the middle of August, when you will do 
 well to plant them again, as this bulb will not do so well 
 if it remain long out of ground. Plant at three or four 
 inches depth in land not too much manured, and not too 
 stiff or wet, as it likes rather a sandy loam. 
 
 464. FUMATORY, bulbous.— L^t. Fumaria bulbosa.— 
 Fr. Fumeterre bulbeuse. — A perennial plant, a native of 
 Europe, five or six inches high, and blows a purplish 
 flower in February, March, and April. Propagated by 
 separating the roots in autumn, or by sowing the seed in 
 
 beds exposed to the sun. Yellow Fumatory. — Lat. 
 
 Fumaria lutea. — ^Fr. Fumeterre jaune. — A perennial plant, 
 from mountainous places in England, growing one or 
 two feet high, and blowing a yellow flower from April to 
 November. Propagated like the bulbous fumatory. 
 
 465. GAURA, biennial. — Lat. Gaura biennis. — Fr. 
 Gaura bisa7inuelle. — A hardy plant of Virginia, five or six 
 feet high, and blows a very pretty flower, of a pale red 
 colour, from August to September. Propagated by sow- 
 ing the seed, which may be done as soon as it is ripe j it 
 will then come up in the spring, and blow the following 
 year. 
 
 466. GERMANDER, the shining. — Lat. Teucrium luci- 
 dum. — Fr. Germandree luisante. — A plant that inhabits 
 Provence, Pi^mont, and St. Bernard. Blows in June 
 and July, a reddish purple flower, and is from one to two 
 

 SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDKNS. CHAJP'» 
 
 feet high. Propagated by seed, sown in a hot-bed and in 
 borders, as well as by separating the roots in AutumoL 
 Any soil will suit it. 
 
 |h.46r. GLOBE-FLOWER.— Lat. Trollius Europaus.-^ 
 Fr. Trolle d Europe. — A hardy perennial plant of England^ 
 about one foot high, and blows a yellow flower in May, 
 and sometimes again in September. Propagated by di- 
 viding the roots in the autumn, and it should have d 
 moist, but not too shady, situation. 
 
 .468. GLOBULARIA, wedge-leaved.— Lat. Globularia 
 nordifolia. — Fr. Globulaire d, feuilles en cccur. — A perennial 
 frame plant of Provence, blowing a blue flower at the latter 
 end of April. Propagated by sowing in pots or in a hot- 
 bed. When once obtained they are easily perpetuated ] 
 
 by dividing the roots. They like a light soil. Globd- ' 
 
 LARiA, blue daisy Lat. Globularia vulgaris. — Fr. Globulaire 
 
 commun. — A perennial frame plant, common in France, 
 about five inches high, and blows a blue flower in June 
 
 and July. Globulajria, three tooth-leaved. — Lat. Aly- 
 
 pum — Fr. Turbith. — A green-house shrub from Mont- 
 pellier, one or two feet high, and blows a blue flower irt 
 March and April. Propagated like the wedge-leaved 
 globularia. 
 
 469. GOLDEN ROD Lat. Solidago sempervirens.--' 1 
 
 Fr. Verge dor. — A hardy perennial from North. America. 
 About four feet high, and blows, towards the end of 
 autumn, a yellow flower. Propagated by separating their 
 roots in the autumn and in February : also by sowing 
 seed in the autumn. 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 470. GOLD Y LOCKS, the flax-leaved.— LoX. Chryso- 
 •coma lynosiris. — Fr. Chrysocome d. feuilles de lin. — ^A per- 
 ennial plant common in France, which grows to the 
 height of eighteen inches, and blows a yellow flower in 
 September and October. Propagated by sowing in a hot- 
 bed, or a bed prepared for that purpose, and transplanting 
 when fit. It likes light soil and a sunny situation, 
 
 471. HAWK- WEED, mjoo^.— Lat. Hieracum sylvati- 
 cum. — Fr. Eperviere des bois. — A hardy perennial plant, 
 common in England, about a foot high, and blows a 
 yellow flower in June and July. — Hawk-webd, endive^ 
 leaved. — Lat Hieracium intybaceum. — Fr. Eperviir6 tubulee. 
 — A hardy perennial plant from the Alps, about two feet 
 high, and blows a yellow flower in July and August. 
 Propagated by the seed as well as by suckers. It will 
 do well in any soil, bat prefers a dry one. Hawk- 
 weed, the clammy. — Lat. Hieracium glutinosum. — Fr. Eper- 
 viere glutineux. — An annual of the south of EuropCr-^ 
 Should be sown in the open ground, and it blows a yellow- 
 flower in June and July. Is not particular as to soiL 
 
 4r2. HELLEBORE, black, or Cliristmas ro^e.— Lat.l 
 Helleborus niger. — Fr. Hellebore ^ fleurs rose. — A native of » 
 the mountainous parts of Italy. Blows a pale blush 
 
 ^ower in January and February, and is perennial. . 
 
 Helllebore, the winter aconite. — hsit. Helleborus hyemalis, 
 Fr. Hellebore d hiver. — A perennial plant, and native of 
 France. Blows a yellow sweet-scented flower in 
 March. Propagated by separating their roots in autuma^ 
 and, also, by seed. 
 
 T 5 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. C^AP. 
 
 ■y .473. HOLLYHOCK, Chinese,— hzX. Altluca rosea.— Fr. 
 Alcee rose.—A hardy biennial plant from China, about six. 
 or eight feet high, and blows, from July till September, 
 a flower that is red, pink, white, or a yellowish colour. 
 Propagated by sowing seed in the open earth, about the 
 end of June or July. They may be transplanted in a 
 month after they come up. Do not, generally, blow the 
 first year. Like good substantial mould, and a warm 
 situation. — The common hollyhock of the gardens, and 
 which is ranked amongst biennial plants, will last much 
 longer than two years ; but, after the fourth, is not so 
 fine. It requires good rich mould, and will then come to 
 the height of ten or twelve feet -, is of almost all colours, 
 blows abundantly, and is easily raised from the seed, but 
 its great height and robustness mark it out for a -shrub- 
 bery, rather than a border, plant. Keep it staked, or 
 towards autumn, the high winds, assisting its own 
 weight, will tear it about sadly, and it does much 
 mischief often in its fall. 
 
 474. HONEY-SUCKLE, French.— L&t. Hedysarum co- 
 ronarium. — Fr. Sainfoin d'Espagne. — A hardy biennial 
 plant, originally from Spain and the south of France, 
 about two feet high, and has a red flower in July and 
 August. Propagated by sowing seed in the spring, ia - 
 light garden mould, and transplanting the plants into 
 the place where they are to grow, in the autumn. 
 
 475. HONESTY, or moon-wort. — IjdX.Lunaria annua. 
 Fr. Lunaire annuelle. — A hardy annual plant of Provence, 
 growing two or three feet high, and blowing a flower of 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOW Efts 
 
 a reddish violet, or blue colour, in June and July. When 
 in bloom it adds to the ornament of gardens, and in 
 winter its bunches of fruit produce a singular effect in 
 parlours, where it is often kept. Propagated by seed 
 sowed in open earth, as soon as ripe, and in a sunny 
 situation. It does not blow till the second year, but 
 afterwards sows itself. 
 
 476. HOP, common. — Lat. Humulus cupulus, — Fr. Hou- 
 blon commun. — A hardy perennial plant, common in Eng- 
 land. Blows a green flower from June till August. Pro- 
 pagated by seed or separating the roots. Likes a deep 
 loamy soil. Its flower does not recommend it to the florist j 
 but its large and handsome clusters of fruit, and its ge- 
 neral handsome and luxuriant growth fit it well for an 
 ornamental climber, either to run up single stakes given 
 4* for the purpose, or to climb over arbors, or such like 
 \ places. As to its other uses see Hop, in Chap. V. 
 
 477. HOUSE-LEEK, mountam.—Lsit. Sempervivum. — 
 Fr. Joubarhe de montagne. — A hardy perennial from Swit- 
 zerland. Five or eight inches high, and blows a purple 
 flower in June and July. Propagated by its suckers. As 
 it grows naturally in dry and rocky places, and on the 
 tops of houses, it is necessary, when planting it in pots, 
 to put at the bottom a good deal of dry rubbish and old 
 plaster. 
 
 478. HYACINTH.— Lat. Hyacinthus orientalis. Fr. 
 Jacinthe. — There are now two thousand varieties of this 
 beautiful bulb distinguished by the Dutch florists. It was 
 originally from the Levant, but, by the care and cultiva- 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP, 
 
 tioii bestowed on it by the florists of Haarlam, and other 
 places of Holland, the oriental plant is infinitely sur- 
 passed by those of the north. To procure fresh varieties, 
 it is necessary to sow the seed ; and to propagate from 
 roots already produced, you take the offsets and bring 
 these forward to flower ; but, of the sowing I shall speak 
 fully at the end of this article. I will now relate how to 
 proceed with bulbs already obtained and old enough to 
 flower. Begin by marking out the sized bed that you 
 wish to have, placing stoutish pegs at each corner, and 
 in two or three places along the sides and ends j dig out 
 the earth to twelve inches deep, then put in one of the 
 three composts that I shall enumerate below, enough to 
 fill the square up to within two inches of the rest of the 
 ground j make the surface as even as a die ; mark out 
 with a small line a set of lines lengthways of your bed, 
 and not more than six inches apart ; do the same then 
 across the bed, observing to let the lines be at the same 
 distance from one another as the last are ; then plant a 
 bulb at every place where the lines intersect each other, 
 taking especial care to let the top of the bulb be even 
 with the earth, and order them so as to have no two of 
 the same colour coming next one another. Then bring 
 more compost, and fill up the two inches that you have 
 yet to make good to bring the bed up to be even with the 
 rest of the ground j and go on filling till you have 
 brought it to be two inches above the rest of the ground. 
 But, I should here observe, that, as this ground will 
 settle down, and, perhaps, bury the bulbs too deep, it is 
 proper to dig out the bed and put in the mould in which 
 the bulbs are set, a week or ten days previous to setting 
 them } and this gives tiine for that settling which always 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 takes place. Do nothing after you have planted (except 
 rake a little now-and-then) till winter, and then, when 
 you expect frosts such as would penetrate two or three 
 inches, or so, bring forth your straw, or whatever ehe 
 you have, and cover over the whole bed effectually, ex- 
 cepting at times when you are pretty certain of no frost. 
 When the season for frosts be over, of course you re- 
 move all paraphernalia for guarding against that element ; 
 but you then have others : cold winds, snows, and even 
 quickly after these, the sun itself. Therefore, as soon as 
 you have removed the straw, place hoops across the bed, 
 or a frame of wood consisting of upright stakes driven 
 into the ground, with bending cross-pieces going over 
 from one to the other, in the fashion of a bedstead ; and 
 on these throw canvass, or other light stuff, when either 
 cold winds or snows prevail, or, (when the plants are in 
 blossom) when the sun shines out too much on them. 
 The flowers will appear in March and April, and, though 
 the plant is hardy, and even its flowers care not for snow 
 or frost, yet, if you permit the sun to come and thaw this 
 on them, they will not last half the time that they would 
 otherwise do. When the plants are in blossom, such as 
 have not strong stalks should have small sticks put in on 
 the side of them, to which these stalks should be tied. 
 Such plants as are destined to bear seed should be left to 
 have the full influence of the sun, and should remain in 
 the bed till the seed-pod turns quite yellow, and begins 
 to split; but those that are not to bear seed, should be* 
 taken up as soon as their leaves turn yellow. Choose a 
 dry day, and take them up cautiously, so as not to damage 
 their offsets -, then lay them pretty close to one another, 
 jon the bed, and cover them over with earth to an inch~ 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChaP. 
 
 thick, and in a fortnight they will be in a fit state to be 
 cleared of dirt, dead leaves and offsets, and to be put by 
 in a dry but airy place, where they remain till the au- 
 tumn. The composts used in flowering bulbous roots are, 
 either,! One half heath mould, a fourth part river sandy and a 
 fourth part well-rotted cow-dung ; or, 2. Two thirds sand, and 
 one third well-consumed leaves ; or, 3. One third river sand, one 
 third fresh earth, one fourth rotten cow-dung, and the rest leaf* 
 mould. These must be prepared a twelvemonth before 
 they are used ; kept in the air, and frequently turned, or 
 it is impossible that the different materials should be 
 properly incorporated one with the other. To procure 
 fresh varieties, sow well-ripened seed from a strong, hand- 
 some, and semi-double plant. Choose a well-protected 
 place, make a nice bed of good compost, and sow in 
 <lrills five inches apart, in the month of September. In 
 the severe frosts, cover over the young plants, and keep 
 grass and weeds from growing amongst them. Cpver 
 with clean straw, or thatch. When, in the following 
 summer, the plants die down, hoe between them and 
 give them an inch or so thick of covering of your com- 
 post J and protect them again the next winter. Same treat- 
 ment for the following summer, and then, in the fourth, 
 they may be taken up and treated as plants for flowering. 
 — In water-glasses, tlie hyacinth makes a very agreeable 
 show in the house during the most dismal part of the 
 winter. Get blue glasses, as more congenial to the roots 
 than white ones, fill them with rain-water, with a few 
 grains of salt in each, and put in enough water to come 
 up the bulb about the fourth part of an inch. Change 
 the water carefully every week, and place the plants in 
 the lightest and most airy part of the room, or green- 
 
; VII. LIST OP FLOWERS. 
 
 i bouse, in which you keep them. Plant hyacinths in Ihe 
 jflower- borders in the manner directed for tulips. 
 
 479. HEPATICA, anemone, or noble liver-wort. — Lat. 
 Anemone hepatica. — Fr. Andmone hepatique. — A perennial 
 plant, which is found in great abundance near Castelane 
 jiUKl de Grasse, and in shady places in the southern pro- 
 vinces of France. The flower is blue, violet, red, or 
 white, and appears in February and March, and, some- 
 times, in January. Propagated by dividing the roots and 
 by sowing the seeds. It likes earth that is light, rich, 
 and warm, and rather dry than moist. 
 
 J 480. IPOMEA, scarlet-flowered — Lat. Tpomea coccinea. 
 — Fr. Ipom^e ^carlate. — A West India plant j annual, and 
 a climber. It grows to the height of seven or eight 
 feet, and in July, and on to September, blows a beautiful 
 little bell-shaped scarlet flower. Give it a good, but 
 rather light, soil ; and propagate by sowing in pots in a 
 hot-bed, not many seeds in a pot, so that each plant may 
 be taken out with a ball of earth to its roots. It is con- 
 sidered a green -house plant ; but, if brought on in a hot- 
 bed of moderate heat, and planted out near the end of 
 May in a good situation, will do very well in the open 
 air in England. 
 
 481. IXIA. — Lat. Ixia bulbocodium. — Fr. V Ixia bulbo- 
 code. — A frame plant of Narbonne and the island of 
 Corsica j a small bulbous root, and blows a violet, 
 purple, or white flower, in March and April. Propagated 
 from ofiFsets. A mixture of peat and sand is the favourite 
 soil of the ixia. 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWfiR-GARDENS. ChaP, 
 
 "482. IRIS, small bulbous. — Lat Iris xiphium. — Fr. Irii 
 hulbeuse. — A bulbous plant from Portugal, which 
 blows in June j its flowers are blue, violet, yellow, 
 or libhite. It likes a light but rich soil, and requires to 
 
 be moved and its roots separated every three years.- 
 
 Iris, yellow. — Lat. Iris pseudoacorus. — Fr. Iris des marais. — 
 Common in England at the sides of marshy places, 
 growing at the edge of the water, and blowing in June ; 
 I never observed these but where the land was stiff 
 clay. Very handsome plant, rising two feet or more in 
 height, and proper for the sides of ponds, or rivulets, in 
 gardens or pleasure-grounds. Move them in August or 
 
 September. Iris, Persian. — Lat. Iris Persica. — Fr. Iris 
 
 de Perse. — A little bulbous plant of great delicacy j 
 grows seven or eight inches high, and blows a pretty, 
 regularly-formed, and singularly sweet-scented flower, in 
 March and April. If in the open ground, protect it a little 
 during severe frosts by a covering of litter; but its chief 
 use is as a potted plant to bring into the house. Plant 
 the bulbs in the month of October, in pots filled with a 
 mixture of one half sand and one half fine mould f or 
 put some in water-glasses, and treat them as directed for 
 
 hyacinths.- Iris, Chalcedonian. — Lat. Iris susiana. — Fr. 
 
 Iris de suze.— From the Levant. That large and hand- 
 some plant so common in our gardens, flowering so, 
 abundantly in June, and having varieties of deep blu€, 
 pale blue, B.t\d white tinged with blue. It grows to about 
 the same height as the marsh iris, mentioned above, is 
 tuberous-rooted, should have good garden soil to grow 
 in, and should be removed every three years. It is, like 
 most of the others, quite hardy, and makes an elegant 
 fihow in the gardens while in flower, This last is the 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 Fleur de Us, which figures in the arms of France ; cor- 
 rupted by us to Flower-de-luce, which, name it bears com- 
 monly in some counties of England to this day. 
 
 483. LARKSPUR, the dwarf.— Lat, Delphinum.—Tr. 
 Pied d' alouette. — A hardy annual from Switzerland. Sow 
 :where it is to blow, either in beds, in tufts, or in rows ; 
 it looks best in the latter way, and, as it grows not 
 higher than from twelve to eighteen inches in height, its 
 brilliant colours of deep and light blue, pink, and white, 
 make a great show in the front of the flower-border. To 
 have a succession throughout the summer, sow every 
 fortnight or three weeks, from the time of beginning 
 
 your spring sowings, till the beginning of June. 
 
 Larkspur, tall. — Lat. Delphinum elatum. — Fr. Dau- 
 phinelle elevee. — Also a hardy annual from the mountains 
 of Switzerland and the Alps. Grows from four to five 
 feet high, and blows a light blue, or deep blue, flower in 
 'August, Propagate by sowing the seeds, either in the 
 spring or autumn. Not so handsome a plant as the last, 
 by a good deal. 
 
 484. LAVATERA, common. — Lat. Lavatera trimestris 
 
 JFr. Lavatere cL opercule. — A hardy annual plant of the 
 «outh of Europe, three or four feet high, and blows a 
 pink or white flower from July to September. Propa- 
 ^ted by sowing in the open earth. Its flower is, of 
 itself, very handsome, and it would be a most showy 
 border-flower, but for the great irregularity, and the 
 rambling disposition, of the branches, which are nume- 
 rous, and placed wide of one another. It flowers abun- 
 dantly, is very hardy, continues a long while in blossom. 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChaP. 
 
 and ripens its seed in abundance; and the richer the soil, 
 the finer the plant. Sow earlv in the snring where the 
 plant is to remain. 
 
 485. LEOPARDS-BANE.— Lat. Doronicum p.antagi- 
 neum. — Fr. Doronic. — A perennial plant from the south 
 of Europe. It is about two feet high, and, in April it 
 blows a yellow flower. Propagated by cuttings and 
 suckers. The autumn is the time for removing it. 
 
 486. LILY, the copper -coloured day. — Lat. Hemerocallis 
 fulva. — Fr. Hemdrocalle d. Jleurs rouges. — A hardy bulbous- 
 rooted plant, and a native of the Levant. Blows, in 
 July and August, a reddish yellow flower. Any soil suits 
 it J but most of all a light loam. Propagated by sepa- 
 rating th€ roots when the leaves dry up ; but should be 
 
 replanted again directly. Lily, scarlet martagon.^—Lat. 
 
 Lilium Chalcedonium. — Fr. Lis de Chalcddoine. — A hardy 
 bulbous-rooted plant from the Levant j it grows three 
 or four feet high, and blows a bright scarlet flower in 
 June and July. Propagated from offsets taken soon 
 after flowering, which should be planted again shortly. 
 
 1 hey like a good soil and good situation. Lily, 
 
 purple martagon. — Lat. Lilium martngon. — Fr. Lismartagon. 
 A hardy perennial plant of Germany, which grows three 
 or four feet high, and blows, in July, a flower which is 
 reddish or white, spotted with purple or blackish spots. 
 Often called the Turk's cap. Cultivated like the scarlet. 
 
 Lily, common white. — Lat. Lilium candidum. — Fr. Lis 
 
 blanc. — This is sometimes called the lilt/ of France, from 
 the circumstance of its being grealy used in France 
 on festival days and in processions; but this is only 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 because of its being a handsome and purely white flower> 
 Corresponding with the national colour. It grows three 
 or four feet high, sending up a straight stalk, garnished 
 all the way up by narrow leaves, and terminated by se- 
 veral large white flowers hanging in clusters, and which 
 appear in July. It is hardy, cares little as to what soil 
 or situation is given to it, and multiplies rapidly by an 
 increase of its large scaly bulbous roots, which should 
 be separated every two or three years, and planted again 
 directly. If not thus often separated, the offsets become 
 so numerous, that, each sending up their stalk, the plant 
 iaover-large and unsightly. It is always handsome, how- 
 ever, in shrubberies, and is also handsome in the back 
 part of borders or in the middle of beds, when kept 
 
 fiarted often, as recommended above. Lily, white 
 
 water. — Lat. Nymphea alba. — Fr. Nymphia blanc — A hardy 
 perennial water-plant, common in England 5 growing in 
 muddy ponds, but never, as far as I have observed it, 
 coming spontaneously in any but stiff clay soils. I never 
 saw it so generally as in Lanchasliire, in the neighbour- 
 hood of Preston, where there is scarcely a little pond that 
 is not covered over in the month of June with this very 
 beautiful large flower. In garden ponds it is common to 
 see them, and a great ornament they are to such places j 
 but they must be procured first, and planted next : two 
 operations of a most difficult nature 3 for you have to 
 dig up the root from the bottom of a pond, perhaps two 
 or three feet deep, and then you have to plant it under a 
 similar difficulty. To dig it up you must actually go into 
 the pond, feel for the stem of the plant, pursue it with 
 your hand to the ground, and then dig up as good a ball 
 Its vou can round the roots. Sufl'er it to remain out of 
 
 f 
 
SHJtUBBERlES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 Water as short a time as possible. Some recommend the 
 placing it in a vase, and sinking that to the bottom of 
 your pond -, but I tiiink a better way, is, to place your 
 plant in an old fish-basket, full of suitable mould, and 
 sink that ^ if you can, sinking it a little way into the 
 earth at the bottom of the pond, as well as sinking it to 
 the bottom of the water. In this way, the plant is not 
 necessarily confined to so small a space as in the vase 5 
 for, when its roots have extended to the edg'e of the 
 basket, there will be room for them to go through, and 
 as the basket rots away, the plant becomes fixed in the 
 
 bed of the pond. Lily, yellow water. — Lat. Nymphea 
 
 iutea. — Fr. Nymphea jaune. — Like the former in all 
 respects, excepting that it bears a yellow flower, which is 
 rather smaller than that of the white. Cultivate in just 
 the same manner. 
 
 487. LILY OF THE VALLEY. — See Solomon's 
 Seal. 
 
 488. LOBELIA, acrid. — Lat. Lobelia urens. — Fr. Loh^- 
 ■Ue hrulante. — A hardy perennial plant of England, about 
 one foot high, and blows a blue flower in July and 
 August. Propagated by sowing in a good earth, rather 
 
 consistent than light, and should be watered often. 
 
 Lobelia, or cardinatsjlower. — ^Lat. Lobelia cardinalis — Fr. 
 Lobdie cardinale. — A very handsome perennial plant from 
 Virginia. It blows a most beautiful rich scarlet flower in 
 July and October, and rises to two or three feet high. It 
 thrives best planted out in summer in a rich friable soil ,• 
 but is tender enough to require some protection in 
 winter. It is easily increased by suckers or by seeds ; 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 aod the suckers of the old plant should be taken off every ^ 
 autumn or they damage it. 
 
 489. LOOSE-STRIFE, yellow.— L-dt. Lysimachia vul- 
 garis. — Fr. Lysimaque commune. — A hardy perennial plant> 
 common in Europe, which grows about two feet high, 
 and blows a yellow flower in July, August, and Septem^ 
 ber. Propagated easily by suckers or shoots, and likes 
 Uioist soil. 
 
 490. LUPINE, c/M;ar/'. — IjzX. Lupinus var'ms. — Vr. Lupin 
 d fieurs varices. — A hardy annual plant from Narbonne 
 and Montpellier, which grows fifteer or eighteen inches 
 high, and blows a blue or red flower in July and August. 
 
 Lupin, common yellow. — Lat. Lupinus luteus. — Fr. 
 
 Lupin jaune. — Nearly resembling the last, only that it 
 
 blows a yellow flower in June, July, and August. 
 
 Lupin, blue. — Lat. Lupin hirsutus. — Fr. Lupin bleu. — 
 Grows taller than either of the others. There is a rose- 
 coloured variety. In other respects resembling the yellow. 
 All of them are proper border-flowers, and make a 
 pretty show. Require no uncommon care j and should 
 be sown where they are to blow. 
 
 491. LYCHNIS, scarlet. — Lat. Lychnis Chalcedonica. — 
 Fr. Lycnide de Chalccdoine. — A hardy perennial plant 
 from the south of Russia, three feet high, and blowing 
 a scarlet flower in July and August. Propagated by 
 parting the roots. They like a good light soil, rather 
 
 moist than dry. Lychnis, red-Jlowered. — Lat. Lychnk 
 
 dioica. — Fr. Lycnide d fleurs roses. — A hardy perennial 
 plant, common in Europe, which is tw^o or three feet 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 high, and blows a red flower in June and July. Propa- 
 gated like the scarlet. The former of these plants is a 
 very handsome ornament of either the border or the 
 shrubbery. All the species are handsome, but particu- 
 larly this. It should be parted early in the spring ; and, 
 by rights, ought to be covered with litter during the 
 winter, for severe frost will injure it. 
 
 492. MAD- WORT, the rock. — Lat. Alyssum saxatile. — 
 Fr. Alysson. — A perennial plant of the East, but com- 
 mon in gardens ; grows to the height of one foot, 
 and always keeps its leaves. It blows a beautiful yel- 
 low flower in April and May, and often blows afresh 
 in August. Propagated by sowing the seeds in a pot, 
 and putting it under a frame until March or April, when 
 the plants may be transplanted. It is proper for the 
 fronts of borders, or for rock-work. 
 
 493. MARSH-TREFOIL, common buck-bean. — Lat. 
 Menyanthes trifoliata. — Fr. Menyanthe trifolie. — A hardy 
 aquatic plant, common in some parts of Europe, is a 
 creeper, and blows a reddish flower in May, June, and 
 July. It has a pretty effect on the borders of ponds, 
 where it will multiply itself. 
 
 494. MARVEL OF PERU.— Lat. Mirabilis Jalappa.— 
 Fr. Nyctoge faux-Jalap, or belle de nuit. — Large bushy 
 plant, with a rough, black root, growing forked or long, 
 according as the soil is rich and deeply-moved. This root 
 will, in very rich gardens, deeply trenched, get to the 
 size of a very large parsnip in the first year, and, by 
 keeping it in sand in winter, housed, it may be made a 
 
\'II. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 perennial, which it is not in our gardens, unless thus 
 carefully managed. The stalks rise (with good digging 
 and good manuring) to near four feet high, becoming a 
 very branching and large plant. The colours are, red, 
 yellow and white, with mixtures, red and yellow, red and 
 white, yellow and white 5 and there are some purple 
 sorts. The pie-balled sorts are most esteemed, and, 
 therefore, the gardeners are careful to save seed from 
 none but such plants as have yielded mixed flowers. This 
 is taste, however, and as long as tastes differ it is proper 
 to have all the sorts that can be procured. The yellow 
 makes the greatest show. The flower is borne at the 
 end of every shoot j and the blowing begins in the first 
 week in July, and continues until the frosts set in. The only 
 reason for the most fastidious to quarrel with this plant, 
 is, that it blows but little in the heat of the sun, reserv- 
 ijag all its beauties for those who rise early enough to see 
 it at from five to seven o'clock in the morning. It is 
 properly a hardy annual, though, as said above, may be 
 rendered perennial, and may be sown in the open air as 
 soon as all chance of injury to the young plants by frost 
 is over. April is the best time for sowing. One plant is 
 enough in a spot, and that not near to any minor plant or 
 shrub, as it eflfectually sucks all moisture from it, and by 
 its spreading branches, overlays it. The seed is a black 
 fleshy substance coming in a little cup that the flower 
 falls out of when overblown. In pots it makes a pretty 
 show, but it requires so much more sustenance than is to 
 be contained in a small vessel of this kind, that, even in 
 the largest, it will not blow such large flowers as the 
 plants in the open air j and unless the flower be a very 
 large one, that is, about the size of a half crown, it is a 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChaP 
 
 pitiful, mean-looking thing, whereas, in full vigour and 
 size, nothing is more showy at a distance, or more deli- 
 cate when minutely examined, than the flower of this 
 plant. It is a native of the West Indies. ■ 
 
 495. MARYGOLD, common. — Lat. — Calendula offki-' 
 nalis. — It. Souci. — A hardy perennial plant, common in ! 
 many parts of Europe, two feet high, and blows a light 
 
 yellow flower in June, July, and August. Marigold. — 
 
 Small Cape. — Lat. Plurialis. — Fr. plurial. — A hardy annual 
 plant, originally from the Cape of Good Hope, one or two 
 feet high, blows a white flower in June, July, and August. 
 Propagated by seed sown where they are to grow. 
 
 Likes a light soil and sunny situation. Marigold, 
 
 African. — Lat. Fagetes patula. — Fr. Fageth des jar dins. —A 
 hardy annual plant of Mexico which blows a reddish yel- 
 low flower from July to October. Propagated by sowing 
 in a hot-bed, or in open earth, if it be good and exposed 
 to the sun, and there is no longer fear of frosts. The 
 plants must be planted in pots, and afterwards in the open 
 earth, taking care to water them frequently when newly 
 planted. They grow to two feet high, and often higher, 
 and should be kept tied to sticks or they will fall about and 
 look ugly. It is rather a staring flower when in blossom, 
 and much more fit for the front of shrubberies, and round 
 lawns, than for borders. It is not particular as to soil. 
 
 496. MASTER-WORT, Great black.— hat Asirantia 
 Major. — Fr. Asirance (i grandes fleurs. — A plant of which 
 the root is perennial, from the mountains of Voges and 
 the Pyrenees. It is two feethigh, and its flower is of a ra- 
 diated reddish or whitish volour, and blows from June to 
 
VII. LIST OF FL0WEH8. 
 
 September. Any soil and any situation except shade, 
 will do for it. Propagated by sowing the seed or by di- 
 viding the roots in the autumn, and it often sows itself. 
 It is a hardy plant. 
 
 497. MONARDA, Oswego tea. — Lat. Monarda didyma. — 
 Fr. Monarda ecarlate. — A hardy perennial from North 
 America, growing two feet high and blowing a red 
 flower in June, July and August. Propagated from 
 suckers, or by sowing the seed in a hot-bed in the spring, 
 and planting out the young plants when they are five or 
 six inches high. They like a soil light, warm, and rich, 
 and should be moved every two or three years. Mo- 
 narda, Canadian. — Lat. Monarda Jistulosa. — Fr. Monarda 
 velue. — A hardy perennial of Canada, three or four feet 
 high, blowing a pale purple flower in July and August. 
 Propagated like the Oswego tea. 
 
 498. MULLEIN, white.— L^^t. Verbascum Lychnitis.— 
 Fr. Molene Lycnite. — A hardy annual plant, common in 
 Europe, growing three or four feet high and blowing a 
 white or yellow flower in June, July and August. Pro- 
 pagated by sowing the seed as soon as ripe, and does best 
 
 in a light, dry and sandy soil. It often sows itself. 
 
 MuLLKiN, rusty. — Lat. Verbascum f err ugineum. — Fr. Molene 
 <i Jleurs rousses. — A hardy perennial plant of the south of 
 France. Blows late in the spring, a flower of a reddish 
 brown and purple in the middle. Propagated by sowing 
 or by dividing the roots, and it will sometimes sow itself. 
 Any soil suits, so that it be not too wet or too shady. 
 
 499. NARCISSUS.— Fr. Narcisse.— There are mfiny 
 
 u 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAF. 
 
 sorts of narcissus, of which our common daffodil is one^ 
 andj I believe, the only one that is not a native of the 
 south of Europe. I shall enumerate only three sorts, and 
 shall give instructions relative to the procuring- of these 
 by offsets, and relative to the blowing of them in beds, in 
 pots and in glasses. — The Paper white. — Lat. Narcissits 
 papyraceus. — the Jonquil. — Lat. Narcissus Jonquilla. — Fr. 
 Jonquille. — the Polyanthus Narcissus. — Lat. Narcissm 
 polyanthus. — Fr. Narcissus multiflore. — These are all beau- 
 tiful flowers, and all sweet-scented 3 but particularly the 
 Jonquil. The first sort is reputed for its delicate and pure 
 white. It grows to a foot and a half high, bearing two 
 or three very handsome and paper- white flowers. The 
 second for its peculiarly sweet scent, which is enough 
 firom only one plants to perfume a whole room. It blows 
 a yellow flower, proceeding from a slender and elegant 
 stalk of from ten to twelve inches in height. The last 
 sort, of which there are three varieties, the white, the white 
 with yelloiv cup in the middle, and the all yellow, for its 
 abundance of flowers, which are frequently ten or twelve 
 in number upon each of two, three or four stems, ac- 
 cording as the plant is a thriving and well-managed one. 
 The first has a bulb about the size of a bantam hen's 
 G^^, the second a bulb not bigger than a very small 
 walnut, and the third a bulb larger than a turkey's e^^. 
 They are all to be had of the seedsmen who import them 
 yearly from Holland j but they may be propagated here ; 
 or, at least, those who wish to go to the trouble of it, 
 by parting the offsets from the mother plants in July, and 
 planting them in a bed by themselves for a year 5 
 by themselves, because they do not flower the first 
 year after being parted 5 or they may also be had 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 from the seed, by proceeding in the same manner as 
 for the hyacinth. The most common way, however, is 
 to buy of the seedsmen such bulbs as are wanted ; blow 
 them the first year in pots or in glasses for the house, 
 and, the next year, plant them out in the borders, or in 
 beds by themselves j this latter being the best way, be- 
 cause then, by making use of the proper soil, which should 
 be s good light hazel mould, mixed with a little perfectly 
 rotten cow-dung, you preserve your bulbs from degene- 
 rating so fast as they will if turned out into the borders. 
 '^Pake them up every third year, to take off the oflFsets, 
 and bring these on in a bed composed of the same mbc- 
 ture as that recommended for the flowering bulb. In 
 pots, use the same mixture, or put a little sand with it ; 
 and, in glasses, do the very same as for the Hyacinth. 
 There are common varieties sold by the florists for the 
 open borders, which manage as you do the tulip dnd other 
 bulbs so planted. 
 
 500. NASTURTIUM, the tall.— hat. Tr&pcedum majus.— 
 Fr. Capucine des jardins. — A plant from Peru which may 
 be trained to the height of ten or twelve feet, and blows 
 an orange coloured flower during the summer and part of 
 the autumn. The single flowered sort is annual, and, 
 being sowed in the spring, in a light soil and exposed to 
 the sun, will afterwards sow itself. The double flowered is 
 perennial, propagated by cuttings, and kept in a house. 
 fn the winter exposed to the sun as much as possible, 
 ind watered but little. There is a dwarf kind which 
 makes a pretty show in the front part of borders or in 
 
 50tS. 
 
 u2 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDEXS. ChAPs. 
 
 501 . NETTLE, the red dead. — Lat. Galeopsis ladanum. — 
 Fr. Chambreuile commune. — An annual plant common in 
 Europe, which grows one foot high, and blows a pretty 
 pink flower from July to October. Propagated by sowing 
 the seed in any soil. A very handsome plant. 
 
 .502. CENOTHERA, great flowered.— Ij^lX. (Enothera 
 grandiflora. — Fr. Enothere d grandes fleurs. — A biennial 
 plant originally from Virginia. It is generally three or 
 four feet high and blows in July, August and September, 
 a beautiful yellow flower. Any soil suits it, but it likes 
 a moist one and a sunny situation. Propagated by sowing 
 
 the seed in a bed, but it also sows itself CEnothera, 
 
 evening primrose. — Lat. CEnothera biennis. — Fr. Enothere 
 hisannuelle. — From North America ; biennial j blows a 
 fine yelloyv flower from July to September. Likes a good 
 garden mould, but is not very nice as to soil ; and it 
 should be sown in the spring in the place where it is to 
 
 blow the following year. CEnothera, purple. — Lat. 
 
 CEnothera purpurea. — Fr. Enothtre pourpre. — An American 
 annual, growing eighteen inches or two feet high, and 
 blowing, from June to August, abundance of purple 
 flowers at the ends of its numerous stalks. Sow in the 
 open ground early in Spring, in the place where it is to 
 blow. 
 
 503. ONOSMA, Aairy.— Lat. Onosma echioides.-^ Fr. 
 Onosma ct feuilles de viperine. — A hardy perennial plant 
 from the south of Europe, about a foot high, and blows 
 a yellow flower in May. Propagated by seed sown in 
 the open earth. Likes a dry soil -, and, though hardy, 
 likes a little covering in very severe weather. 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 504. PALMA CHRISTI, Lat. Ricinus comnmnis.-'YT. 
 Ricin commun.- — A tender biennial plant from India, from 
 five to seven feet high. Blows in July and August. Pro- 
 pagated by seed sown in a hot bed. When the plants 
 are five or six Inches high they should be planted where 
 they are to grow. This plant is annual in the open ground, 
 but, when put into a green-house, it lasts four or five 
 years. - 
 
 505. PANSY, or hearfs-ease. — Lat. Flola hispida. — Fr. 
 Violletie d' automne.—A. hardy perennial plant, very com- 
 mon in Europe, which blows a blue flower almost the 
 
 whole of the year. Pansy. — Lat. Viola grandi^ora. — 
 
 Fr. Violette pensee. — A hardy perennial, common in most 
 parts of Europe, eight or ten inches high, and blows all 
 the summer, a yellow and violet flower. These are 
 propagated by seed, which ripens abundantly, as well as 
 by separating their roots. Like rich earth and partial 
 fihade. 
 
 506. PEA, the everlasting. — Lat. Lathyrus Latifolius. — 
 Fr. Gesse d large feuilles. — A perennial plant from Pro- 
 vence. It is four or five feet high, and in July and Au- 
 .gust, blows very beautiful bunches of rose-coloured 
 flowers. Sow in beds and transplant to where the plants 
 are to blow, or sow where they are to remain, but take 
 care to have sticks, or lattice-work high enough to train 
 
 them upon. Sweet Pea. — Lat. Lathyrus odoratus.—Fr, 
 
 4jesse odorante. — An annual plant from Sicily. About four 
 or five feet high, and blows a rose coloured flower of va- 
 rious hues in June, July and August. Propagated by the 
 ■seed sown where it is to remain. There is another €ver- 
 
SHRUBBEKIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChA^. 
 
 lasting pea, the grandiflora, which blows the largest Aqw- 
 crs of any, and which is as handsome as any, exceptinj^ 
 that its foliage is not so luxuriant. The crown pea, pr 
 painted lady is very luxuriant in its growth, and, in rich 
 soils, blows very handsome clusters of flowers of a pale 
 blush colour. Propagate all these in the same manner. 
 
 507. • Lat. Petunia Nyctaginiflora. — Fr. 
 
 A very handsome perennial plant, bearing abundance of 
 beautiful white flowers from May till October. It is a 
 very 6ne border flower, but, in severe winters must be 
 covered. It does extremely well in pots, and some should, 
 by all means be potted and housed every autumn to re- 
 double the chance of preserving the stock. Propagate 
 by cuttings placed under a hand-glass, where they will 
 soon strike ; or make it an annual by sowing seeds in 
 the spring of the year. 
 
 508. PHLOX, smooth, or bastard lychnis. — Lat. Phlox 
 glabenima. — Fr. Phlox glahre. — A hardy perennial plant, 
 originally from North America. Grows about two feet 
 high, and blows a pretty purple flower in June, July and 
 August. Propagated by dividing the roots in the autumn 
 and in February. 
 
 509. PINK, China or Indian. — Lat. Dianthus chinensis. — 
 Fr. V ceillet de la Chine. — A hardy biennial plant of China, 
 one foot high, blowing a bright red flower in July. 
 Propagated from seed, from layers, and by dividing the 
 roots, which like a light but good soil, dry rather than 
 wet, and a sunny situation. It is generally cultivated in 
 our gardens as an annual j as it blows the first year, and 
 
ViL LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 will not survive the winter unless protected from frost. 
 A very pretty border flower ; but should be grown in 
 
 ^eds, or largish clumps. Pink, the garden. — Lat. Df- 
 
 anthus Hortensis. — Fr. CEillet Lacinie. — This is supposed 
 to be a variety of the carnation. Its origin is common 
 4n England and all over Europe. There are many pretty 
 varieties, and these are on the increase every year in 
 England, the manufacturing people of the north bestowing 
 vast pains in propagating and cultivating them. The 
 plant is smaller in every particular than the carnation, 
 but is its miniature. There are varieties double and single, 
 red, white, and laced. It grows in tufts and sends up 
 many stalks, each bearing a flower j but these tufts 
 should not be suffered to remain unparted more than one 
 year. Propagate by layers j pipings or seed, just as with 
 the carnation, only that, the pink being much the hardier 
 of the two, you need not bestow the same pains upon it 
 that you must on the carnation. Pipings will strike in 
 the open ground, without any hand-glass over them, but 
 you are surer to succeed by using the glass, and in the 
 manner directed for propagating carnations in the open 
 ground. No plant of this kind should be suffered to 
 blow more than twelve flowers. All above that number 
 should be cut ofif as they appear in the bud. Any soil 
 almost suits it. 
 
 510. POLYANTHUS.— Lat. Primula elatior.—Fv. Pri- 
 mevere. — An indigenous plant which has been brought to 
 great perfection by the florists. It blows, in March and 
 April, flowers of various colours, red, brown, yellow, 
 purple, and variegated ; the flower stem should rise above 
 the foliage, should be perfectly erect, and send out from 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ClIAI' 
 
 five to seven small foot-stalks each to be terminated )>; 
 a flower. Propagate by seed, or by parting the ro( 
 which latter should be done every year, or the plants art- j 
 sure to dwindle away and ultimately die. The Polyan- 
 thus likes a shady situation, moist ground, and manuring 
 of neats' dung ; but the soil mentioned under the head 
 " Auricula " suits it well. It is well to have some always 
 in pots the same as those for the Auricula, and by these 
 means you procure an early show in the green-house and 
 pan the more readily and surely save the seeds of such 
 plants as you most admire. In the seed-bed, you have 
 only to follow the instructions given for the management 
 of the Auricula bed. 
 
 511. POPPY, red, or corn rose Lat. Papaver rhceas. — 
 
 Fr. Pavot coquelicot. — A hardy annual plant about twa 
 feet high, and its flower red. Blows in June and July, 
 and is propagated by sowing the seed in a light and rich 
 
 earth; afterwards they sow themselves. Foppy, gar den.— 
 
 Lat. Papaver somniferum. — Fr. Pavot des jardins. — This sort 
 grows larger than the last, has several varieties, double 
 and single, of most colours excepting blue. It is easy to 
 propagate from the seed, but, unless great variety be re- 
 quired, hardly worthy of a place in the flower border. 
 This sort it is that yields opium. Prefer good deep soil 5 
 but they are not particular in this matter. 
 
 512. PCEONY, hairy leaved — Lat. Pceonia hirsuta.~Fr, 
 Pivoine (i feuilles velues— is a. hardy perennial plant from 
 the south of France, which blows a purple flower in 
 June. PcEONY, common red. — Lat. Pceonia roseo Offici- 
 nalis. — Fr. Pivoine d, flews roses. — A hardy perennial from 
 
Vil. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 Spain and the south of France, and blows early in the 
 spring. Propagated by separating the roots in the autumn 
 and the spring. Not particular as to soil or situation. 
 Two or three feet in height, and makes a very fine show 
 when planted in borders bounded by green-sward. 
 
 - 513. PRIMROSE.— Lat. Primula vulgaris.— Fr. Prime- 
 vhe. — That very pretty early -flowering native plant which 
 we find all over England by the side of shady lanes, and in 
 coppices of the winter-cutting, bearing numerous bright 
 yellow flowers, each upon a foot stalk of two or three 
 inches in length. By taking the pains, you may procure 
 abundance of its seed, and propagate it as you would the 
 Auricula, which see. Or you may transplant into your 
 garden, at Michaelmas, any number of the plants, which 
 j will make a beautiful show in the early spring months. 
 The situation and soil should be those for the Polyanthus } 
 that is, shady as to situation, aud moist, as to soil. 
 
 514. RANUNCULUS.— Lat. Ranunculus asiaticus. — 
 
 Fr. Renoncule A native of the Levant. It is a tuberous 
 
 rooted plant, greatly ornamental, and deservedly a choice 
 florist's flower. It blows, early in the spring, flowers 
 single, semi-double or double, and of almost every colour j 
 but the scarlet, being the most admired, is the most 
 usual. It is propagated either by offsets from the tubers^ 
 or by seed ; and both very much in the same way as in 
 the case of the anemone. By seed, sow in January, under 
 •\ frame and light, but take care to have the earth, to a 
 foot and a half deep, taken out previously and well frosted, 
 md, when thawed again, put it back into the frame. 
 This destroys all vermin. Make it fine, and sow your 
 u5 
 
SfTitCSBERlfiS AND f LOWER-GARDENS. ChA7. 
 
 seeds in very shallow drills four inches apart, covering 
 the seed in the slightest possible manner. I should, per- 
 haps, have first said, that the seed should be saved from 
 a semi-double plant the stem of which is strong and 
 high, the flowers large, thick and round, and of brilliant 
 colour 3 and also that it should be gathered in a dry time, 
 scraped oflF from the stalk by patiently using your finger- 
 nails for the work, and kept in a dry, though airy, place 
 till the time for sowing. Let your seed-bed be in an 
 eastern aspect, the one best suited to the ranunculus 
 whether a seedling or a flowering plant j water with a 
 fine-rosed watering-pot, so as to keep up a continual 
 moisture, and, when the plants are up, give plenty of 
 air J remove the light from the frame, and cover over 
 with hurdles or a thick covering of netting. Do not 
 move these young plants till their leaves are perfectly 
 dead, and then do as with young anemones. By offsets. 
 The time of planting out your old root is precisely that 
 directed as the proper time for planting out the anemone ; 
 and, it is at the time of planting that you part the offsets 
 from the mother-roots. They are easily discerned, each 
 complete root having a bud enveloped, as it were, in a 
 greyish down ,• the under part being composed of several 
 dark brown claws, for the most part tending inwards at 
 their points. These look as if perfectly dead, but, a few 
 days under ground plumps them up to a considerable 
 size ; and it is even, with some, the practice to put the 
 roots into a basin of water a few hours previous to 
 planting them, a practice of very doubtful utility. The 
 offisets that you take off" are just as fit for blowers as the 
 mother-roots j they do not, like the hyacinth and tulip, 
 require nursery beds to bring them into flowering in a 
 
Vir. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 course of years ; therefore, there are no instructions 
 further necessary as to the propagating by offsets. But, 
 as to general cultivation, something must be said. The 
 florists invariably plant them in beds in the manner de- 
 scribed under the head Hyacinth, except that they are 
 not to be planted at any more or less than an inch and a 
 half under ground j but they flourish also either in 
 clumps in the border, or in pots in the green-house. In 
 either of these cases, the soil that the ranunculus likes is 
 a good fresh, strong, rich loamy one; or, if you prepare 
 soil, let it be fresh loam with a manuring of well-rotted 
 horse or cow-dung. The scarlet'turban is the most 
 showy variety, and produces a most brilliant effect in a 
 bed J and, when thus planted, it is well worth the while 
 to take all the precautions necessary to bring forward the 
 plants well through the winter, and to guard their blos- 
 soms against too much wet or sun in the spring. To do 
 this, cover in winter, and shade and water in the spring, 
 as you do in the hyacinth bed. When you plant in pots, 
 take care that the pots be good deep ones -, such as are 
 used commonly for the auricula, drain them well with pot- 
 sherds, but give frequent waterings in dry weather, or, 
 in such small masses, the earth soon burns, and you loose 
 your blossom-buds, if not the plant. About the end of 
 June your plants will be dying down, and then is the 
 time to take them up, cut ofiF the fibres of the roots and 
 pull off the leaf-stalks ; and put avt^ay the roots, well 
 freed from dirt. This root and the anemone take no 
 harm from remaining twelve months out of ground. 
 
 515. ROCKET, or dames violet. — Lat. Hesperis matro- 
 talis, — Fr. Julienne cultivee, — A biennial plant from Italy 
 
IHRtJBBKRIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. CSAA. 
 
 ■which grows a foot and a half high, sending up many 
 f ' stalks crowned by double fragrant flowers. Varieties 
 red and white j and blows from May to August. Pro- 
 pagated by parting the roots in autumn j or by cuttings 
 of the stalks of the flowers, which, being cut into con- 
 venient lengths, you make three splits in the end of each, 
 of about half an inch up j force the split end into the 
 ground, and they will readily take root if you put a 
 hand-glass over them, and place them where none but 
 the morning sun can get to them. Better still to strike 
 them under a propagation glass in a gentle hot-bed. 
 There are very few prettier, and still fewer sweeter flowers 
 than the double rocket j but it is said by theorists not 
 to thrive near large cities I think that the smoke of 
 London or Manchester is incompatible with the health of 
 anything animal or vegetable j but I do not think smoke 
 prejudicial to this plant in particular, for I have seen it 
 remarkably fine in the neighbourhood of London, but 
 never have I seen it so fine as in the vicinity of the 
 smoky towns of the North of England, where it grows 
 most freely in a strong clayey soil. 
 
 516. RING FLOWER.— Lat. Anacydus valentinus.-^ 
 Fr. Anacycle de Faience. — An annual plant from the south 
 of France, about one foot high and the flower of a yel- 
 low colour, which appears in June and July. It is raised 
 from seed sowed where it is to bloom, and does well in 
 good earth that is warm and light. 
 
 517. ROSE CAMPION, smooth-leaved.— Ld.t. Agros- 
 temma ccelirosa. — Fr. Coquelourde rose. — A hardy annual 
 p]:nt of the South of France, eight or nine inches high, 
 and blows a pink flower in July and August. 
 
VII. 
 
 LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 518. RUSH, the flowering. — hat. Butomus umhellatus. — 
 Fr. Butome en omhelle. — A perennial, found in the borders 
 of rivers and in the marshes in England and other parts 
 of Europe. Grows three feet high, blowing in July a 
 bunch of pretty large red flowers. It is a handsdme 
 plant, and well suited to damp or swampy places, or to 
 the sides of ponds or rivers. Propagated by dividing 
 the roots. 
 
 519. SAFFRON. See Colchicum. 
 
 5^0. SAND-WORT, majorca.—Lat. Orenaria balea- 
 rica. — Fr. Sabline de Mahon. — A hardy perennial plant 
 from Corsica, about two inches high, and blows a white 
 flower in May and June. Propagated by seed, or sepa- 
 rating the roots. Likes a sandy and warm soil, and a 
 southern aspect. 
 
 5^21. SAXIFRAGE, the golden. — Lat. Chrysosplenium 
 alternifolium. — Fr. Dorine. — An inhabitant of France and 
 many other parts of Europe. It is five or six inches high, 
 and blows a yellow flower in April. Propagated by 
 dividing the roots in October, and likes a shaded and 
 moist situation, and is well suited to ornament the edges 
 
 of water. A perennial plant.^ Saxifrage, thick-leaved. — 
 
 Lat. Saxifraga crassifolia. — Fr. Saxifrage d feuilles epaisses. 
 — A hardy perennnial plant originally from Siberia, which 
 
 blows a pink flower in March and April. Saxifrage 
 
 palmate. — Lat. Saxifraga palm ata. — Fr. Saxifrage palma'ie. 
 — A perennial plant common in France and England, 
 blows a white flower in April and Mav. A foot high. 
 Saxifrage, hairy. — Lat. Saxifraga hirsuta. — Fr. S. velue. — A 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 perennial frame plant, about eight or ten inches high, 
 blows a white flower spotted with red in May. From 
 France and the Pyrenees. Propagated by separating the 
 roots. Not particular as to soil, but likes a shady situa- 
 tion. 
 
 522. SCABIOUS, sweet. — Lat. Scahiosa atropurpurea. — 
 Fr. Scahieuse fleur de veuve. — A hardy biennial plant, ori- 
 ginally from India. About two feet high, and blows, in 
 August and September, a deep violet-coloured flower. — 
 
 Scabious, deviVs bit. — Lat. Scahiosa succisa. — Fr. Sca^ 
 
 bieuse tronquee.—k hardy native perennial plant, which 
 blows from August till September. Propagated by seed 
 sown in any border. Varieties, deep purple, flesh-co- 
 loured, and white. 
 
 523. SIDA, broad-leaved. — Lat. Sidd ahutilon. — Fr. 
 Sida ahutilon. — An annual stove plant, from India. Four 
 feet high, and blows a yellow flower in June, July, and 
 August. Propagated by seed sowed in a hot-bed, and 
 afterwards transplanting the young plants where they are 
 to remain. 
 
 524. SILPHIUM, jagged-Leaved. — Lat. Silphimn lacini- 
 atum. — Fr. Silphium lacinie. — A hardy perennial, three or 
 four feet high, originally from North America, and blows 
 
 a yellow flower in July, August and September. 
 
 Silphium, three-leaved. — Lat. Silphium trifoliatum. — Fr. 
 Silphium ct feuilles tern^es. — A hardy perennial plant of 
 North America, about eight feet high, and blows a yellow 
 flower in August and September. Propagated by seed 
 sown in the open earth, or by separating the roots in the 
 autumn. 
 
VII. 
 
 LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 525. SNAP-DRAGON, common. — Lat. Jntirrhinum 
 viajus.—Fr. Mu/lier des jardins. — ^A perennial plant, com- 
 mon in uncultivated places, and on walls, in England. 
 Blows in June, July, and August, its flowers are purple, 
 
 red, or white.^ Snap-dragon, small. — Lat. Antirrhinum 
 
 orenticum. — ^Fr. Muflier rubicond. — An annual plant, com- 
 mon in Europe, growing about a foot and a half high, 
 and blowing a reddish, or white, flower, with spots of 
 yellow, in July. Propagated by seed, sown in a border, 
 and the plants afterwards planted, where they are to re- 
 main. Both of these are handsome border flowers, but 
 the latter is rather too small to make any show. The 
 former, on the contrary, is very showy, very hardy, and 
 remains a long time in flower. Sowed on the tops of 
 old buildings, old walls, or heaps of dry rubbish, it 
 thrives almost as well, and blows quite as well, as in the 
 best-prepared borders. 
 
 526. SNOW-DROP.— Lat. Galanthus nivalis. ^Fr. 
 Galantine^ perce-neige. — A native bulbous-rooted plant, 
 which, in January and February, blows a white flower, 
 and is seven or eight inches high. There is, also, a 
 
 double sort. Snow-drop, summer. — Lat. Leucoium 
 
 <Estivum. — Fr. Niveole d" ttc. — A native plant, which 
 blows a white flower in the beginning of summer. Bul- 
 bous, and propagated by offsets. Likes a moist soil. 
 
 527. SOAP WORT, cowj mow.— Lat. Saponaria officinale, 
 — Fr, Saponaire officinale.— A hardy perennial platit, about 
 two feet high, und very common in England Blows, in 
 July, red or white flowers, and there are some double. 
 Propagated by the runners. Likes any soil or situation. 
 
"SHUUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. 
 
 CHAi 
 
 ,i 528. SOLOMON'S-SEAL, angular.— hat. Convallaria 
 polygonatum. — Fr. Sceau de Salomon. — A hardy perennial 
 common in England and many parts of Europe^ which 
 blows a whitish flower in May and June, and rises to 
 about eighteen inches high. Propagated by dividing the 
 roots in the fall. Not particular as to soil^ but it likes 
 
 a shady situation, and will even succeed under trees. 
 
 Solomon'-seal, or Lily of the Valley. — Lat. Convallaria 
 mdilis. — Fr. Muguet de Mai.— Like the former, it will 
 succeed under the drip of trees. A native perennial 
 plant, with large oblong leaves rising from the root ; 
 sending up a stalk eight inches high, which bears from 
 six to twelve white pendant sweet-smelling flowers in 
 May and June. Propagated by dividing the roots in the 
 fall. It likes a moist situation j and will grow under the 
 drip of high trees. 
 
 529. SOLDANELLA, Alpine.-Lat. Soldanella..—Fr. 
 Soldanelle des Alpes. — A perennial plant from Switzerland, 
 three or four inches high, and blows, in March and April, 
 a blue, reddish, or, sometimes, white flower. Propagated 
 by separating the roots. Likes good heath mould, with a 
 fourth part of maiden earth. Should be protected from 
 bard frosts. 
 
 530. SPIDER- WORT, Virginian.— Ijq.U Tradescantia 
 Virginiana. — Fr. Ephem^rine de Virginie. — A perennial 
 plant, originally from Virginia. It is about a foot high, 
 and blows, from June till October, a bluish violet-co- 
 loured flower. There are some, also, with white flowers. 
 It flourishes in any soil or situation.. Propagated by 
 separating the roots m March and October. 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 531. SQUILL, Italian.— Lat. Scilla liaUca.— Fc 
 Scille d' Italie.— A. hardy bulbous-rooted plant, com- 
 mon about the environs of Nice. It is about eight or 
 ten inches high, and blows a blue flower in March and 
 April. Propagated by its offsets. Likes fresh sandy 
 earth, or a mixture of light soil and sea sand. 
 
 53^. STAR OF BETHLEHEM, yellow.—Lsit. Ornitho- 
 galum luteum. — Fr. Ornithogale jaune. — A bulbous-rooted 
 plant, common in England, and blows a yellow flower 
 in March, and is three or four inches high. Propa- 
 gated by separating the offsets in the autumn. Likes 
 
 rather moist earth and shaded situation. Star of 
 
 Bethlehem, spiked. — Lat. Ornifhogalum Pyrenaicum. — 
 Fr. Ornithogale des Pyrenees. — A hardy perennial plant, 
 originally from the Pyrenees, one or two feet high, and 
 
 blows a yellow flower in May and June. Star of 
 
 Bethlehem, common. — Lat. Ornifhogalum umhellatum. — 
 Fr. Ornithogale en ombelle. — A hardy perennial plant of 
 England. From six to nine inches high, and blows a 
 white flower in May and June. Both sorts propagated 
 by the offsets, taken from the plants in the autumn, and 
 planted directly, 
 
 533. STOCK, the Brompton. — Lat. Cheiranthus cocci- 
 .neus. — Fr. Giroflee cocardenu. — The stock, if not a native 
 of England, is completely naturalized, and has been cul- 
 tivated here with greater success, perhaps, than in any 
 other country. There are four distinct sorts that I shall 
 mention, because these are all of them most deserving of 
 being cultivated in the flower-garden, where they pro- 
 duce show, odour, and durability, surpassed by none. 
 
SHKUJiBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDEXS. ClIAP. 
 
 The Brompton stock grows to about two feet high 
 when flourishing, has long hoary leaves, narrow, and 
 rather waved at the edges, and, above the foliage, there 
 rises a stalk studded round thickly with scarlet double 
 flowers as large each as a small rose, and which appear 
 in May and June. This plant is a biennial, and should, 
 therefore, be sown in the spring or summer, and treated 
 accordingly ; but as it suffers from the frosts of winter, 
 when brought on too forward the first summer, it is best 
 not to sow till the middle or latter end of June. Raise 
 the plants in a frame, and keep them thinned out in order 
 that, though not large when winter comes on, they may 
 still not be weak. Plant out the young plants in the 
 fall, and, if the winter be very severe, and you have the 
 means of doing it, cover them with litter during such 
 severity j as, though frosts must be very hard, indeed, 
 to kill them, yet a severe winter will spoil their blossom- 
 buds and cause them to blow but little, and single. 
 
 Stock, Queen s. — Lat. Cheiranthus incanus. — Fr. Giroflee 
 des jardins. — This is also a biennial ; grows a foot or 
 more ' high, producing white, red, or purple double 
 flowers in May and June j but these come on innu- 
 merable branches which this stock sends out from its 
 main stalk on each side. Leaf like the former j and it 
 
 is cultivated like the former. Stock, ten-week. — Lat. 
 
 Cheiranthus annus. — Fr. Giroflee annuelle (or, quarantamt 
 forty-day) ; is a very handsome and sweet little annual 
 plant, blowing from May to September or October. It 
 grows from twelve to eighteen inches high, with greyish 
 coloured leaves, branches out a little, and, if from good 
 seed, bears double flowers, red, white, or purple ; equal 
 to either of the preceding in odour, and not far surpassed 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 by either in appearance. Sow early in March, or in 
 February, on a hot-bed and under a frame or hand-glass. 
 Take care to keep the plants thinned out so as not to let 
 them get weak, and give plenty of air, especially in the 
 middle of the day. Early in April plant them out where 
 they are to blow, and let this be in the front part of the 
 flower-borders ; put in four or five plants in a clump, or 
 more, so that, when you find their flower-buds appear- 
 ing, you can pull up those plants that are showing for 
 single flowers, except one, which you should always leave 
 for seed. The red is by far the most showy variety. Sow 
 again in May, and the plants of this sowing will, when 
 planted out, keep up a succession of flowering till Oc- 
 tober. Stock, wall-flower leaved. — Lat. Cheiranthus i«- 
 
 terregimis. — Fr. Giroflee grecque. — 'Also an annual, rising 
 to ten or twelve inches high, having leaves unlike all the 
 former, of a darkish shining green, and being perfectly 
 smooth. Blows, in May and June, double or single 
 flowers, white, red, or violet. To be treated like the 
 ten-week stock. All these plants bear their seed on plants 
 that blow single flowers, and, to make sure of saving 
 seed that shall produce double flowers, the seed plant 
 should stand amidst those that are blowing double. The 
 double-flowering ones show themselves very early ; their 
 buds are much larger and rounder than the single, and 
 appear to be bursting when the single have no such 
 appearance. 
 
 534. STRAWBERRY -ELITE, slender-hranched.—lj2X. 
 Blitum virgatum.—Fr. Blitte effllee.—An annual plant of 
 France and the greater part of Europe, which grows one 
 or two feet high, and blows from May to August, When 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 >^ once raised in a soil which it likes, it sows itself without 
 further trouble. 
 
 • 535. SUN-FLOWER.— Lat. tielianthus multiftora.— 
 Fr. Soleil multiflore. — A hardy perennial plant, originally 
 from North America, about four feet high, and blows a 
 ' yellow flower in July and August. Propagated by seed 
 sowed in a border in July, and the young plants planted, 
 •when they are fit, in the places where they are to re- 
 main ; also by separating the roots in the autumn or 
 
 spring. Sun-flower, annual. — Lat. Helianthus annuus. 
 
 — Fr. Soleil d. grandes fleurs. — An annual, which came 
 originally from Peru j grows from four to six feet high, 
 having the coarsest stem, leaf and flower of any culti- 
 vated plant. The flower is yellow, and appears in July 
 and August. Is sometimes double, and is from six 
 inches to a foot in diameter j bears abundance of oily 
 seed which is much liked by poultry of every sort. Pro- 
 pagated by its seed, sowed early in spring, and the plants 
 when in their sixth leaf removed to where they are to 
 biow. Fit for nothing but very extensive shrubberies, 
 where, when seen from a distance, the sight may en- 
 dure it. 
 
 636. THISTLE, the globe.—Lat Echinops ritro.—Fr. 
 i' echinope ritro. — A hardy perennial of the south of 
 France, growing three or four feet in height, and blows a 
 light blue flower in August. Propagated by sowing or 
 by separating the roots. Any soil suits it. 
 
 537. THRIFT.— Lat. -Sto^ice Armeria.~Fr. Statice a 
 ■bordures. — A native of the Alps ; the roots are perennial 
 
V II. LIST OF FLOWRES. 
 
 and fibrous j it rises three inches high or more, and 
 spreads very fast. The variety with bright scarlet 
 flower, which comes in May and lasts throughout t\ie 
 mouth of June, should find a place in small borders, but 
 it should be regularly parted every year to prevent its 
 spreading too widely. 
 
 538. TIGER-FLOWER.— Lat. Tigridia pavonia—Fr, 
 Tigridie panachee. — A very beautiful bulbous plant from 
 Mexico. Grows from one to two feet high 5 with nar- 
 row sword-shaped leaves, and a stalk longer than these, 
 which, in the month of July, blows many flowers of a 
 yellow or scarlet colour beautifully spotted with purple. 
 The flowers never come out more than one or two at a 
 time, and they last but six hours, when they drop, and 
 are, the next day, succeeded by others. This plant is not 
 quite hardy ; therefore, the best way to cultivate it in the 
 open ground is as you do your superior hyacinths, taking 
 it up when its leaves decay, and keeping it out of ground 
 and in a dry place, till spring, when you replant it in the 
 bed or iu'the border. In pots, in the green-house, it does 
 very well, but not better than in the open air when 
 treated as above, and in a suitable soil 5 namely, a fine and 
 somewhat light and deep garden mould. Propagate by 
 separating the oflFsets from the mother bulbs, and treating 
 them as you do tulips. 
 
 539. TOAD-FLAX, ivy-leaved, — Lat. Linaria cymba- 
 lar'ia. — Fr. Linaire cymbalaire. — A hardy annual plant, 
 found on old walls ; which, hanging over the sides of a 
 pot, will blow a pale purple flower during the whole af 
 the summer. Propagated by seed. 
 
T 
 
 SHRUBBERIES AND FLO^VER-CARDE^'S. ChAP. 
 
 540. TUBEROSE, cow?won. — Lat. Polyanthes tuberosa. 
 — Fr. Tub&euse cuUivee. — A. green- house perennial plant, 
 about three feet high, and a native of the East Indies. 
 Blows a white flower in August and September, and has a 
 very powerful scent. Propagated by the offsets, which are 
 separated from the principal root every year, as it blows, 
 generally, but once. The offsets should be planted in a 
 hot-bed, and they blow in about two years. Like sub- 
 stantial though light earth. The bulbs of this plant are 
 imported annually, by the florists and seedsmen, from 
 Italy, as are those of the Amaryllis, from Guernsey ; and 
 it is better to buy these and only force them into flower 
 by means of the stove, or hot-bed to begin with, and 
 then the green -house, than to attempt to propagate them 
 from offsets, which are long in coming to perfection. 
 
 541. TULIP.— Lat. Tulipasylvesiris.—Fr.TvlipeSau- 
 vage. — This is the native tulip, but is so completely 
 eclipsed by the eastern plant of the same name that it is 
 scarcely known, though one variety, the double yellow, 
 is a most desirable border flower, producing handsome 
 large and very double flowers in May. It is multiplied 
 by parting its offsets every year from the mother bulb, 
 
 and likes a lightish soil.^ Tulip, the florist's — Lat. 
 
 TuUpa Gesnariana — Fr. Tulipe des fteuristes. — From the 
 Levant. A hardy bulb that has occupied the attention 
 of Florists more than any other plant. There are early 
 blowing and late blowing varieties, the former appearing 
 in April, and the latter in May and June ; and as to 
 colours, they match the rainbow. I will mention the 
 names of two or three of the early and the double va- 
 rieties : Earlv blowers, Due van Thol, Clarimond, Due van 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 Orange. Double, Marriage de ma FiUe, double red, double 
 yellow. Of single late-blowers there are upwards of six 
 hundred named varieties, so I give none of these. For 
 borders, they are sold by the Florists at five shillings the 
 hundred. All are propagated in the same way : by offsets 
 or by seed ; but most commonly by offsets, because to 
 do it by seed is expensive and most tedious, as the seed- 
 ling plants do not come into flowering till the fifth or 
 sixth year. By onsets : When you take out your old 
 bulbs to plant, break off the largest offsets from the sides, 
 and plant them at two or three inches apart in a bed of 
 sandy loam with a sub-stratum of rotted cow-dung at 
 about eight inches beneath the surface. Let the bed be 
 raised a few inches above the adjoining ground and 
 rounded so as to turn off rains, and have it hooped over 
 so that, in severe frosts or long-continued rains, you may 
 throw over a covering to guard against either. By 
 seed : Procure the seed from those plants that have the 
 tallest and straightest stems, the flowers the most even, 
 the most clear in the cup, and of the purest colours : and 
 let the seed remain on the plant till the pod in which it 
 is contained becomes of a brown colour, and begins to 
 burst. Sow and manage in the manner directed for the 
 Hyacinth, which see. For bulbs that are already blowers, 
 . most Florists choose square beds, in which they plant 
 them in rows at seven inches asunder ; the beds being first 
 prepared in this way : they are marked out according as 
 the dimensions are determined on ; then the earth is 
 digged out completely to the depth of twenty inches or 
 more j a layer, ten inches thick, of good fresh earth from 
 a rather sandy pasture is put in, and upon it a thin coat 
 of well-rotted cow-dung 3 on that, another layer of the 
 
 I 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ClIAP- 
 
 fresh pasture-mould is laid in, to about four inches above 
 
 the surface of the ground, in the middle 3 and sloping 
 
 down at the sides, where also it should be a little higher 
 
 than the adjacent ground, to which it will settle. It is 
 
 left so for ten days, and then, about the end of October, 
 
 being intersected by lines across and athwart in such way 
 
 as for every intersection to be seven inches from the 
 
 neighbouring ones, holes about four inches deep are made 
 
 at every one of these, a little drift sand deposited in each 
 
 hole, and the bulbs are put in and covered over carefully. 
 
 Beds of this kind are generally hooped over, so as to 
 
 admit of covering during the winter ; but some have a 
 
 high frame to cover them, so high as to admit of ones' 
 
 walking under 3 and these are covered with canvass 
 
 awnings and are intended to keep off the fierce rays of the 
 
 sun while the plants are in blossom. When planted in 
 
 the flower-border, tulips should be put in clusters of from 
 
 six to twelve, and the bulbs not nearer to one another 
 
 than six or seven inches. They should be planted, in very 
 
 light soils, at six inches beneath the surface ; and, in ! 
 
 heavy soils, at four inches beneath the surface, and should | 
 
 have a little sand put into the holes that they are planted \ 
 
 in. Lightish pasture-ground is most suitable to them, 1 
 
 and the manure for them is always rotted cow -dung. 1 
 
 When the leaves begin to turn brown, and the upper part ; 
 
 of the flower stem also begins to turn, take up the bulbs 
 
 and place them in a dry but airy situation, where they 
 
 will remain till Septsmber or October, when you separate 
 
 their offsets from them and replant both offsets and 
 
 mother bulbs in their respective beds. I must again 
 
 observe, that, in the flower borders, they look best in 
 
 clusters ; the early ones particularly arc ornamental in 
 
VII. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 this way, being very short in the flower-stalk and blend- 
 irig well with the yellow and blue crocuses. 
 
 s 
 
 542. VALERIAN, blue flowered greek.-— Lat. Polem- 
 onium ccBruleum. — Fr. Polenwine bleue ; is a hardy peren- 
 nial plant, common in many parts of England, blowing 
 in May, June and July, a bright blue, or a white flower. 
 Propagated by seed or by separating the roots. Any soil 
 suits it, but not a shady situation. About two or three 
 
 feet high. Valerian, red. — Lat. Valeriana rubra. — ^Fr. 
 
 Valeriane rouge. — A perennial plant of the south of 
 France, three or four feet high, and blows a red flower 
 from June to October. There are other sorts with white, 
 pink and lilac flowers. They come handsomest in a light, 
 warm and rich soil, and are propagated by sowing the 
 seed, and by dividing the roots. When once obtained 
 they sow themselves. 
 
 543. VERNONIA, Zowg- leaved. — lu^A. Vernonia novebo- 
 raceiisis. — Fr. Vernonia de New Yorck. — A perennial plant 
 from North America, three or four feet in height, and 
 blows a blue, or light purple, flower, from September 
 till November. — Vernonia, ^a/Z. — Lat. Vernonia prcealta. 
 
 Fr. Vernonia gigantesque. — A hardy perennial plant from 
 North America, five or six feet high, and blows a purple 
 flower from September till November. These plants arc 
 very ornamental in Shrubberies, as they blow when all 
 other things have done. Propagated by separating their 
 roots : also by seed, sown in the open earth. Like a 
 rich loamy Goil. Vervain, cluster flowered. — Lat. Ver- 
 bena muWfida. — Fr. Verveine muUifide. — A hardy biennial 
 plant froDj Buenos Ayres. Blows a deep purple flower 
 
 X 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 >-- from July till October. Vervain, rose. — Lat. Verbena 
 
 auheltia. — Fr. Verveine d auhlet. — A biennial frame plant 
 from North America. About six inches high, and blows 
 a red flower from June till August. Propagated by 
 seed or by dividing the roots. Will do in any soil. 
 
 544. VETCH, hitter spring. — Lat. Orobus vernus. — Fr. 
 Orobe prlntanier. — A perennial plant common in France 
 and other parts of Europe, about a foot high and blows 
 in March and April. Propagated by seed, sown in the 
 open earth, as soon as it is ripe. When the roots are 
 strong enough, plant them where they are to grow. It 
 is sometimes necessary to let them wait till the spring or 
 the following Autumn before they are removed. Likes 
 
 any soil. Vetch-milk (Goafs rue leaved). — Lat. 
 
 Astragalus galegif or mis. — Fr. Astragale galegiforme. — A per- 
 rennial plant originally from Siberia, Its height, four feet, 
 blows, in July and August, yellow flowers. It is multi- 
 plied by seed sowed in a bed of light earth which is ex- 
 posed to the south east. When the young plants are five 
 or six inches high, plant tliem where they are destined 
 to grow. 
 
 . 545, VIOLET.— Lat. Viola odorata.—Fr. Violette odo- 
 rante. — A hardy perennial plant, common in England and 
 most parts of Europe, and blows a deep blue flower in 
 March and April, Varieties white, and rose-coloured ; 
 double blue, white, and rose-coloured 3 they all like a 
 moist and shady situation, and the single varieties are 
 easily propagated by seed sowed in a shady place as soon 
 as it is ripe, that is, about the beginning of August ; they 
 do not come uj) till spring, and when of a pretty good 
 
Vll. LIST OF FLOWERS. 
 
 size, the young plants should be transplanted into a shady 
 bed there to remain until autumn, when you may plant 
 them where they are to remain. The double sort bears 
 no seed, therefore is propagated .only by dividing the 
 roots, which is the easiest and, perhaps, best way of pro- 
 gating either. Do this as soon as the plant has done 
 flowering, keep it, moist till it have taken root ; water, 
 if the weather be very dry 3 and do not part the roots 
 more than once in three years, as the tufts must be pretty 
 thick to flower well. ^ilrn lh. 
 
 646. WALLFLOWER.— Lat. Chevranthus cheiri.—Fr. 
 \ Girqfiee jaune ; or VioUer. — A biennial plant of the South 
 of Europe. Grows from one to two feet high, and blows a 
 fine yellow flower from April till June. Propagated by 
 seed, sowed in a hot-bed of moderate heat, or, in beds 
 out of doors in March. When they are four or five 
 inches high, they are planted where they are to remain. 
 They want little watering and a soil rather dry than 
 moist. The double ones are propagated by cuttings 
 planted in good earth and rather shaded. This plant is 
 calletl hardy, but in very severe frosts it should have pro- 
 tection, or it blows late and sparingly, and not so double 
 I as otherwise it would. It may be made the hardier by 
 I being sowed in poor ground, which causes the plant to 
 I be less succulent and consequently less susceptible of 
 frost. It grows well on old walls, or any walls, indeed ; 
 or on rubbish of any kind, and makes a pretty show 
 I wherever it is found. 
 
 547. WOOD-SORREL, violet coloured. — Lat. Oxahs 
 violacea. — Fr. Loxalide violette. — A perennial bulb origi- 
 
SHRUBBERIES AND FLOWER-GARDENS. ChAP. 
 
 nally from North America, and blows a violet coloured i 
 flower in May and June. It grows three or four inches 
 highj and likes a light soil and is propagated by parting 
 the offsets, or seed which should be managed like the 
 tulip only that it requires less pains. 
 
 548. WILLOW-HERB, the rose bay — Lat. Epilobium 
 augustifolium. — Fr. Ephilobe d epi. — A native perennial 
 plant, owing its vulgar name to the resemblance of its 
 leaf to that of the common willow. It grows three or 
 four feet high, sends up innumerable branches, which are 
 decked thinly all the way up by narrow pointed leaves, 
 and, towards the tops of these branches, it bears a peach 
 blossom flower in July and August. It is a troublesome 
 thing in a flower border, on account of the great quantity 
 of stems that it sends up from its very wide-spreading 
 root, awd, on this account (as well as on account of its 
 height not suiting a border) it is not cultivated in it, but 
 is generally amongst the front rows of the shrubbery. 
 The soil that it likes best is a moist one, but it does not 
 refuse a pretty dry one. There is a white variety; both 
 propagated by dividing the roots in the fall. 
 
 549. XERANTHEMUM annual, or immortal herb.-— 
 Lat. Xeranthemum annuum. — Fr. Immortelle des jardins. — 
 A plant from the South of Europe. About a foot high, 
 and blows in July and August, a purplish flower. Pro- 
 pagated from seed sowed in the open greund where it is 
 to grow. When it is in a warm situation it propagates 
 itself. 
 
 550. ZINNIA. — Lat. Zinnia multiflora. — Fr. Zinnia mul- 
 
VII. LIST OP FLOWERf. 
 
 tiflore, — An annual plant originally from North Ameriv 
 Sends up many flower stalks about a foot and a half high, 
 and, at the end of each, bears a brownish red flower, in the 
 months of July, August and September. Propagated by 
 sowing the seed in April where the plants are to blow, or 
 in February in a Iwt bed, to be planted out in April, not 
 particular as to soil or situation ; will do well in rock- 
 work, and makes a pretty show in the border. 
 
 551. ZIZIPHORA, oval-leaved. — Lat. Ziziphora capi- 
 tatum. — Fr; Ziziphora, — A hardy annual plant from Syria, 
 about six inches high, and blows a purplish flower in 
 June and July. — Ziziphora spear-leaved. — Lat. Ziziphora 
 tenuior. — Fr. Ziziphora lanc^olee. — A hardy annual plant 
 from the Levant, about a foot high, and blows in June and 
 July. Both are propagated by seed sown in the autumi? 
 or in the spring where they are to remain. 
 
r 
 
 K A L E N D A R. 
 
 January. 
 
 Kitchen-garden. — Sow radishes in a southern aspect, and 
 protect them. Pot young cucumber plants, and put them in the 
 bearing-bed at the end of this month. 
 
 Feteroary. 
 
 Kitchen-garden. — Sow masagan and Windsor beans, mel6hs, 
 
 radishes, spinage, basil. Line cucumber-beds. Fruit-gak- 
 
 DEN. — Strike cuttings of currants, gooseberries, vines, and make 
 layers of the latter; prune fruit-trees, begin grafting towards tlie 
 close of the month, and sow walnuts. 
 
 Marcli. 
 
 Kitchen-garden. — Sow artichokes, masagan beans, Windsor 
 beans, capsicums on hot-beds, cauliflowers to come in in the 
 autumn, celery on gentle hot-beds, cress, cucumbers on beds, 
 lettuce, marjoram, marygold, melons, nasturtium, onions, 
 parsley, peas, radishes, sage, borage. Plant out cauliflowers, 
 hops in clumps for their tops, small onions of last May's 
 sowing. Old onions for seed. Pot out melons of last sowing. 
 Divide offsets of garlick, cives, shalots. Ma^e asparagus beds, 
 
RALENDAR. 
 
 and dig old asparagus ground and throw up earth on the 
 surface, and the same with clumps of artichokes, and dig 
 between cabbage-stumps planted in the autumn to bear seed this 
 
 year. Clip box-edging. Fruit-garden. Graft all sorts of 
 
 trees, prune, protect blossoms of peach and other fruit-trees, look 
 
 after vermin narrowly, and transplant trees. Flower-borders. 
 
 Sow adonis, alysson, prince's feather, snap-dragon, yellow balsam, 
 candy-tuft, catchfiy, convolvulus minor, devil-in-a-bush, hawkweed, 
 Indian pink, ketmina, larkspurs, lavetera, linaria, mignonette, moon- 
 wort, nasturtiums, nigella, palma Christi, pansey, sweet-pea, per- 
 sicaria, scabious, sun-flowers, strawberry spinage, stocks two ten 
 weeks, sweet sultan, Venus' navel-wort. On hot-bed, sow con- 
 volvulus major, amaranthus tricolor and globe, balsams, china 
 aster, china hollyhock, chrysanthemums, colutea, capsicums, jaco- 
 bea (French grounsel), ten-week stock, zinnia, marvel of Peru. 
 Plant autumnal flowering-bulbs, such as the tiger flower. 
 
 April. 
 
 Kitchen-garden. — Sow Windsor, long-pod, and kidney beans, 
 beets, broccoli, for autumnal use, Brussels'-sprouts, sugar-loaf 
 cabbage ; savoys and dwarf green cabbage for winter use, kale for 
 winter use ; carraway, carrots, chervil, coriander, corn-salad, cress, 
 cucumbers in beds, dill, fennel, hyssop, lettuce, mint, parsnip, peas, 
 radishes, rampion, rape, samphire, savory, scorzenera, sorrel, 
 squashes in hot-bed, tarragon, thyme, tomatums in hot-bed, worm- 
 wood. — Move capsicums, cauliflowers of last month, melons and 
 cucumbers to their bearing beds. — Plant potatoes, slips of thyme, 
 lavender, mint, rosemary, rue, sage, tansey, sorrel, wormwood. — 
 Fruit-garden. Propagate by layers; head down young trees, and 
 cut stocks down close to the ground ; finish grafting ; prune young 
 
 ^ruit-trees, and watch and destroy vermin. Flower-borders. 
 
 Sow tlie same as last month, or sow at the very end of April, for 
 succession, the same things ; but those then sowed in a hot-bed may 
 now be sowed in tlie open ground. — Propagate by layers, slips, and 
 cuttings, and by separating roots. — Put out the less tender of your 
 green-house plants. 
 
KAL^NDAA. 
 
 May. 
 
 KiTCUEN-GARDEN. — Sow succGssion crops of Windsor, long- 
 pod, £ind kidney beans ; broccoli for spring use, cauliflowers for 
 December, Indian corn, cress, cucumbers under hand-glass, onions 
 to plant out next spring, peas, pumpkins, radishes, salsafy, skirret, 
 spinage, squash. Prick out celery, and move cucumbers sowed 
 
 last month. Plant potatoes, and squashes sowed last month.- 
 
 Fruit-garden. Look to your grafts, and loosen or take off the 
 
 bandages; disbud fruit-trees. Flower-borders. Weed, and 
 
 set out plants just coming up, to their proper distances from one 
 arwther. At about the middle of the month, or the end, sow again 
 for succession, larkspurs, mignonette, ten-week stock and wall- 
 ik>wer-leaved stock, minor convolvulus, and Virginia stock. Pro- 
 pagate by cuttings, slips, and layers. Pot out geraniums, fuchsias, 
 and other green-house plants. 
 
 Jume. 
 
 Kitghen-gardex. — Soio Windsor and long-pod, and kidney 
 beans, pumpkins, and tomatums. Thin out young asparagus 
 plants, f^eed all the garden over. Clip box-edgings, and quick- 
 set also. Fruit-garden. Tie up young grafted trees, water 
 
 newly-planted ones if dry weather, net up morello cherries and 
 
 currants. Flower-borders. Take up bulbous-rooted plants 
 
 and put tiiem by. Tie tall-growing flowers up to sticks. 
 
 July. 
 
 ■'/Li ~.U>tI>t\ri .C'\' 
 
 KiT<ifkEk'^AiiDiEN. Sow kidney-beans, early dwarf cabbages, 
 cress, endive, squashes for a late crop, turnips. Plant out celery in 
 
 trenches, leeks. ►Fruit-garden. Begin budding. Water newly 
 
 planted trees, nail faiit-trees that want it, head down young espar- 
 
 liers, stop fruit-bearing shoots of vines. Flower-garden. 
 
 Pipe carnations and pinks ; divide roots of Auricula and plant 
 t!iem. 
 
 x5 
 
KALEXDAR. 
 
 Kitchen-garden. Sow kidney beans, early dwarf cabbage, 
 cauliflowers for spring use, cress, lettuce, spinage, turnips, borage. 
 Break down the leaves of Brussells'-sprouts. Plant out endive for 
 winter. Dig up mushroom spawn. Gather onion, and other seed. 
 
 ^Fruit-garden. Finish budding, and loosen the bandages 
 
 round buds put in earlier, or take them entirely off; plant out 
 
 strawberry-plants that struck in the fore-part of this spring, 
 
 Flower-garden. Divide and plant roots of auricula aod col- 
 chicum. 
 
 jiepteniber. 
 
 Kitchen-garden. Sow cress, lettuce. Fruit-gabden^ 
 
 Propagate by layers, and cuttings. Plant fences of quick, 8tc. 
 
 Flower-borders. Take up tiger-flowers, and other tender bulbs ; 
 and pot and enter the green-house plants that were put out in April. 
 Put in pots, Guernsey and belladonna lilies. 
 
 October. 
 
 Kitchen-garden. — Sow masagan beans and cresses. — Plant 
 artichokes, asparagus, horse-radish, lettuce under hoops so as to be 
 ■covered in winter. Cut down sea-kale leaves. Lay down turf. 
 Earth up celery. Divide offsets of cives, garlick, shalots. Put by 
 
 endive for winter use. Fruit-garden. Transplant young trees 
 
 and stocks of all kinds. Flower-garden. Very hardy flowers, 
 
 such as larkspurs, may be sowed to stand the winter. Plant 
 hyacinths, tulips, anemones, ranunculuses, &c. Separate lajners of 
 pink, carnation, &c. and put hyacinths, narcissuses, and jonquils in 
 
 IVoTember. 
 
 Kitchen-garden. — Sow leeks, early peas, and masE^an beans. 
 Cover asparagus beds with wood-ashes. Take up beets and car- 
 
KALENDAR. 
 
 rots, and turnips, and put them away for winter use. Pin-t t 
 bage-stumps for seed, cauliflower-plants to come in in the sj ■n 
 lettuces in hot-beds for winter use, rhubarb in rows after pai'^nj; 
 
 old beds, and dig between and manure this last. Fruai- 
 
 GARDEN. Sow the fruit-stoues that have been kept till now in sand> 
 cut down old stocks of raspberries, and dig about the roots. Sow 
 hawthorn berries, and plash young hedges. 
 
 December. 
 
 Kitchen-garden.— rSou7, cucumbers about the middle of the 
 month, radishes in hot-beds; and earth up peas well. Make 
 cucumber-beds. 
 
CLASSIFICATION OF SHRUBS- 
 
 Flowering trees and shrubs of from twenty to forty feet high, 
 and proper for the back part of shrubberies. — Catalpa, Cedar, 
 Lime, Locust, Loblolly-bay, Oleaster, Pawpaw, Pistachio-tree, 
 Service-tree, true and bastard. Snow-drop-tree, Tulip-tree. 
 
 Shrubs of from ten to twenty feet high ; proper for t/ie middle 
 of shrubberies. — Cashiobury-thom, Lilac, Magnolias, grandiflora, 
 tripetella, acuminata, Ziziphus, Rose-acacia, Bladder-nut, Cypress- 
 tree, Laburnam, several sorts ; Dogwood, two sorts ; Gordonia 
 pubescens, Georgia bark. Guelder-rose. 
 
 Shrubs of from Jive to ten feet high ; and proper for the outer 
 rows of shrubberies ; for lawns and parterres. — Indigo, the 
 shrubby bastard ; Jasmin, Kcebreuteria, Magnolia Glauca, Privet, 
 Sea Buckthorn, Spindle-tree, St. John's Wort, the hairy ; Arbutus, 
 Sumac, Syringa, Tamarisk, Trefoil, shrubby ; Laurel, Silver-leaved 
 Almond, Double-flowering Almond, Carolina Allspice, Althea 
 Frutex, Barberry, Bladder-senna, three sorts ; Broom, white and 
 yellow ; Buckthorn, Box, Bird-cherry, Double-flowering Cherry, 
 Fontanesia, Rhododendron, Oleander, the small-flowering ; Lau- 
 restine, Roses, standard ; Gum-cistus. 
 
 Shrubs of from one foot to Jive feet high; and proper for 
 the edges of shrubberies ; for small grass-plats, and to mis with 
 herbaceous flowers in borders. — Alexandrian Laurel, Symphori- 
 carpos, Mezereon, Rest Harrow, Jerusalem Sage, Scorpion Senna, 
 Spiraea, several sorts; Widow Wail, Dwarf Almond, Fruitful 
 Calycanthus, Marsh Andromeda, Silvery Anthyllis, Azaleas, white, 
 red, and yellow ; Candle-berry Myrtle, Dwarf American Cherry, 
 
CLASSIFICATION OF 
 
 Shrubby Diotis, Fuchsia, Geranium, Roses, Kalmia, Large-flower- 
 ing St. John's Wort. 
 
 Trailing and climbing shrubs, proper to hide tcalls, or other 
 naked places. — Clematis, Caper bush, Honeysuckle, Flowering 
 Bramble, Large flowering St. John's Wort, Ivy Irish and Com- 
 mon ; Periwinkle, Jasmin, Passion-flower, Trumpet-flower. 
 
 Evergreen shrubs ; proper to mix in the shrubbery, or to form 
 winter pleasure-grounds. — Arbutus, Hare's-ear, Red Cedar, 
 Laurel, common, Portugal, and Alexandrian; Oleander, Privet, 
 Evergreen Thorn, Live Oak, Thuja, Rhododendron, Laurestine, 
 Rose Chinese; Magnolia Grandiflora, Box, Cistus, Mezereon, 
 St. John's Wort, Cypress. 
 
 Green-house shrubs. — Myrtle, Olive-tree, Otange-tree, Oleander, 
 Large-flowering Pomegranate, Psorolea, Vervaine, Widow-wail, 
 Geranium, Bread-tree, Camellia Japonica, Climbing Cobea. 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF FLOWERS. 
 
 Tail-growing flowers ; proper for the back part of flower- 
 borders. — Convolvulus Major, Dahlia, Gaura, Golden-rod, Holly- 
 hock, Honeysuckle, Hop, Mullein, Nasturtium, Palma Christi, 
 Pea, Sun-flower. 
 
 Flowers of middling stature ; proper for the middle of flower- 
 borders, and to mix with low-growing shrubs. — ^Aconite, Aspho- 
 del, Campanula pyramidal ; Carnation, Chrysantliemum, Chelone, 
 Coreopsis, Columbine, Fritillary, Hellebore, Honesty, Iris, Lava- 
 tera. Leopard's Bane, Lily, Lobelia, Loose-strife, Lupine, Lychnis, 
 Marvel of Peru, Marygold, Master-wort, Pea, Phlox, Poppy, 
 Silphium, Soapwort, Sun-flower, Thistle, Valerian, Vernonia, 
 Willow herb. l 
 
FLOWERS. 
 
 Flowers of from, two inches to two feet high ; proper L^ < • 
 Jiowen. — Adonis, Amyrallis, yellow ; Anemone, Archangel, A>'< » . 
 Auricula, Balsam, Barren-wort, Birth-wort, Bulbocadium, Caltrops, 
 Campanula, Canterbury-bell, Campion, Candy-tuft, Catchfly, Cen- 
 taury, Cineraria, Cistus, Colchicum, Hound's-tongue, Convolvulus 
 Minor, Cowslip, Corn-flag, Crepis, Crocus, Cyclamen, Daffodil, 
 Dragon's head, Daisy, Devil-in-a-bush, Fox-glove, Fraxinella, 
 Fumatory, Germander, Globe-flower, Goldy locks, Ilawkweed, 
 Hellebore, Hyacintli, Hepatice, Larkspur, Lily of the Valley, 
 Lobelia, Mad-wort, Marygold, Monarda, Narcissus, Nasturtium, 
 Red Nettle, (Enothera, Onosma, Pansey, Petunia, Pink, Poly- 
 anthus, Poeony, Primrose, Ranunculus, Rocket, Ringflower, Rose 
 Campion, Sand Wort, Saxifrage, Scabious, Snap-dragon, Solo- 
 mon's seal, Soldanella, Spider Wort, Stock, Strawberry-blite, 
 Thrift, Tiger-flower, Tulip, Vetch, Violet, Wall-flower, Wood- 
 sorrel, Xeranthemum, Zinnia, Ziziphora. 
 
 Flowers that like moist or stoampy situations ; proper for the 
 edges of ponds or rivulets. — Avens, Marsh Trefoil, Flowering 
 Rush. 
 
 Water-flowers. — Lily, white and yellow. 
 
 Green-house and Frame-flowers. — Amaryllis, Bear's Ear, Ca- 
 calia. Cactus, Coris, Cyclamen, Dolichos purpureus, Egg-plant, 
 Indian Fig, Globularia, Ipomea, Ixia, Sida, Squill, Tuberose, 
 Rose, Vervain. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Note, The figures refer to paragrapha. 
 
 AiTON, Mr. 261. 
 Aldbury, 19. 
 Annulary incision, 251. 
 Ants, 299. 
 Apple, 261. 
 Apricot, 262. 
 Arching, 257. 
 Artichoke, 119. 
 Asparagus, 120. 
 
 Balm, 121. 
 
 Basil, 122. 
 
 Bean, 123, 124. 
 
 Beet, 125. 
 
 Broccoli, 126. 
 
 Brussels' sprouts, 127. 
 
 Burnet, 128. 
 
 Bacon, Lord, 10. 
 
 Barberry, 263. 
 
 BircTs, 295. 
 
 Books, the, on gardening, 10. 
 
 Box, 42 to 44. 
 
 Black grub, 305. 
 
 Brown, Sir A. 19. 
 
 Bush form, 255. 
 
 Bug, the peach, 293. 
 
 Buds, 204. 
 
 Budding, 212 to 218. 
 
 Borage, 198. 
 
 Cabbage, 129. 
 Calabash, 130. 
 Cale, 131. 
 Cale, sea, 132. 
 Camomile, 133. 
 Capsicum, 134. 
 Caraway, 135. 
 Canot, 136. 
 
 Cauliflower, 137. 
 
 Celery, 138. 
 
 Chervil, 139. 
 
 Cives, 140. 
 
 Coriander, 141. 
 
 Com, 142. 
 
 Corn-salad, 143. 
 
 Cress, 144. 
 
 Canker, 288. 
 
 Caterpillar, 301. 
 
 Cotton-blight, 289. 
 
 Cucumber, 145. 
 
 Cultivation, 59 to 64, 103 to 1 17. 
 
 Curwen, Mr. 110. 
 
 Cuttings, 203. 
 
 Chilworth, 19. 
 
 Chantilly, 314. 
 
 Cherry, 264. 
 
 Chesnut, 265. 
 
 Cranberry, 266. 
 
 Currant, 267. 
 
 Comble, M. de, 299. 
 
 Cobham, 285. 
 
 Dill, 146. 
 
 Diseases of trees, 287. 
 
 Drummoud, Mr. H. 19. 
 
 Ear-wig, 308. 
 Edgings, 41. 
 
 Eden, Sir Frederick, 314. 
 Enclosing, 30 to 55. 
 Endive, 147. 
 Espalier, 258, 259. 
 Epsom Down, 314. 
 Evelyn, Sir P. 19. 
 
 Famham, 14. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Pennel, 148. 
 
 Fencing 30 to 35. 
 
 Flowers, Alphabetical list of, 
 413. 
 
 , borders of, 411. 
 
 , beds of, 411. 
 
 , propagation and culti- 
 vation of, 412. 
 
 Fig, 268. 
 
 Filberd, 269. 
 
 Fitzwilliams, Sir William, 14. 
 
 Form of garden, 28, 29. 
 
 Flies, 360. 
 
 Forsyth, Mr. 299. 
 
 Garlick, 149. 
 
 Gourd, 150. 
 
 Green-houses, 56 to 58. 
 
 Goblet form, 254. 
 
 Gravel walks, 40, 313. 
 
 Grass, short, 314. 
 
 Garden, situation for, 13 to 19. 
 
 , soil for, 20 to 27. 
 
 , form of, 28, 29. 
 
 walls, 29. 
 
 , fences for, 30 to 35. 
 
 , laying out of, 35 to 46. 
 
 , walks for, 40. 
 
 Grafting, 206 to 211. 
 Gooseberry, 270. 
 Grape. See vine. 
 Gum, 292. 
 
 Hampton Court, 285. 
 Half-standard, 256. 
 Hedges, 32 to 35. 39. 
 Hot-beds, 49 to 55. 
 Hunter, Orby, 14. 
 Hortus Kewensis, 261. 
 Hop, 151. 
 Horse-radish, 152. 
 Hyssop, 153. 
 Huckleberry, 272. 
 
 Jerusalem Artichoke, 154. 
 Knives, pruning, 225. 
 
 Layers, 202. 
 Lavender, 155. 
 Leek, 156. 
 Lettuce, 157. 
 Long Island, 259. 
 Lice, 291. 
 
 Manure, 26. 
 Maggot, 294. 
 Marshall, Mr. 82. 205. 
 Missing, Mr. 115. • 
 Medlar, 273. 
 Moles, 298. 
 MoT^treuil, 247. 
 Mulberry, 274. 
 Melon, 275. 
 Mildew, 290. 
 Mice, 296. 
 Mangel Wurzel, 158. 
 Marjoram, 159. 
 Marigold, 160. 
 Melon, 161. 
 Mint, 162. 
 Mushroom, 163. 
 Mustard, 164. 
 
 Nailing, 250. 
 Nasturtium, 165. 
 Nectarine, 276. 
 Nut, 277. 
 
 Onion, 166. 
 
 Orleans, the Duke of, 314. 
 
 Orchards, 259. 
 
 Painshill, 259. 
 Peach, 278. 
 Pear, 279. 
 Plum, 280. 
 Parsley, 167. 
 Parsnip, 168. 
 Pea, 169. 
 Pennyroyal, 170. 
 Potatoe, 171. 
 Pumpkin, 172. 
 Purslane, 173. 
 Plantir>g, 219, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Propagation, 59 to 64, 199 to 
 
 204. 
 Pruning, 222 to 249. 
 Pyramid form, 253. 
 
 ! Quince, 281. 
 
 Radish, 174. 
 Rampion, 175. 
 Rape, 176. 
 Rhubarb, 177. 
 Raspberry, 282. 
 Rats, 297. 
 
 Rich, Sir Robert, 14. 
 Richardson, Mr. 225. 
 Roots, their extent, 210. 
 Rook-worm, 304. 
 Rosemary, 178. 
 Rue, 179. 
 Rutabaga, 180. 
 
 Salt, 27. 
 Sage, 181. 
 Salsafy, 182. 
 Samphire, 182. 
 Savory, 184. 
 Savoy, 185. 
 Scorzenera, 186. 
 Shalot, 187. 
 Skirret, 188. 
 Sorrel, 189. 
 Spiuage, 190. 
 Squash, 191. 
 Seed, 65 to 84. 
 Service, 283. 
 Slips, 201. 
 
 Stocks, 205. 
 
 Spider, 300. 
 
 Strawberry, 284. 
 
 Situation for a garden, 14 to 1^ 
 
 Snail, 302. 
 
 Slug, 303. 
 
 Swift, 259. 
 
 Shrubs, Alphabetical list of. — 
 
 Sowing, 85 to 95. 
 
 Standard-trees, 260. 
 
 Soil 20 to 27. 
 
 Shrubberies, 312. 
 
 Tansey, 192. 
 Tarragon, 193. 
 Thyme, 194. 
 Tomatum, 195. 
 Turnip, 196. 
 Training trees, 222. 
 Transplanting, 96 to 102. 
 Trenching, 23. 
 Tull,Mr. 10.110.205. 
 
 Vermin, 287. 
 Vine, 285. 
 Voltaire, M. de, 11. 
 
 Walks, 40. 313. 
 Walnut, 286. 
 Wasps, 309. 
 Waverley Abbey, 13. 
 Walls, 29. 
 Weeds, 205. 
 Wire-worm, 306. 
 Wood-louse, 307. 
 Wormwood, 197. 
 
 B. BENSLK^, PRINT>BR, ANDOVER. 
 
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