.\WEUNIVERVa .>:WSANCELfj^ %a3AINn-3WV ^.OFCAIIFO/?^^ ^s^lLIBRARYQ/\ -^ILIBRARYQr \^my\^ \^my\^ ^nwmm^ ^OFCALI mj^, ^OFCALI F0/?4> ^^\\F•UNIVER% ^■ '^j:?i3onvsoi^ ^lOSANCElfj^ -v^lLIBRARYCk "^/saaAiNO-awv^ '^toiivdjo^ ,^WE•UNIVER5'/A "^J^iiaoNvsoi^ ^lOSANCElfj^^ O u_ "^/^aHAINH^UV ^OFCALIF0% ^^AHvaaiH^ ^ -^ILIBRARYQr^ ^ILIBRARYQ^ .^WEUNIVERS/A , A\\EUNIVER^/A ^, <2> — '^ ^ 4s: "^AHvaani^ ^^ILIBRARYQr ^^^ILIBRARY^/: ^ ^^ ^^ SWITZERLAND. I I I I — ^ (M 07 ;c « -^ -^ iCiC « CO t~- I- •- cc cc e:; — :s I I I I I M M I M I I I I I I 1 I I I I I ^. fc- |0J^«000O^Cv?O^O-^CTO00;D;2gJ jCC^^CMOOO MM 1 -' ■ ^ ^Tf Tt iTi ir; :a « SI ^^ O M M 1- ■^^ro•^•^lno^-xxr;o — t'J'Mcc-^ir^^ M M M M i M M M M M M M I 'SSS^SS ISSSS ISSSS I8SS8 I M M M M ^^-r-— l-r^OJOJC^C^>OJC'0ffOCO?C?O<*ir)C ^ c^ •?^s^, o <» ii 11 11 111!, '-'^^g^ 1 I I M M M M M M M M M I I I 1 -riro.^uocoi^.y:ciO--£j«;2^-^i-ccc;ogg ^4// Kig/iis reserrti/. SWITZERLAND. 1 '"^'^i>sr ^^ ^^^-\-- i.-r-^:. j: rV> ll^-A'^ r SWITZERLAND, AND THE AUJ.VCENT I'OKTIONS OF ITALY, SAVOY, AND THE TYROL HANDBOOK FOR TRAYELLEKS K. BiEDEKER. With 21 Maps- 7 Plans . and 7 Panoramas. FIFTH EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED. COBLKNZ: KARL B.EDEKEK .1// UighU n-.H-rni/. 'Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy pray ere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call. Thee to correct in any part or all." Chaucer. 1380. 16 PREFACE. l3|/3 , The object of the Handbook for Switzerland is to render tlie traveller as independent as possible of the services of guides, domestiques de place, voitnriers, and innkeepers, and enable him to realise to the fullest ex- tent the exquisite and rational enjoyment of which this magnificent country is the fruitful source. Since the great increase in the facilities for travel afforded of late years by the wide extension of railways, the number of travellers on the Continent generally, and in Switzerland especially, has enormously increased. A fresh impetus has thus been given to the spirit and enter- prise of the traveller. Summits are now scaled which were hitherto deemed inaccessible, or accessible only to the practised step of the chamois-hunter or the hardy native, accustomed from boyhood to feats of peril. The achievements of the English and Swiss Alpine clubs have dimmed the memory of De Sanssure, Auldjo, and the other pioneers of these icy regions, whilst latterly the fair sex have vied in deeds of daring with those by whom the dangers of adventure are more appropriately encountered. The Editor has repeatedly explored the greater part of the country described , solely with the object of gathering fresh information. The present edition has been carefully revised, and provided with all the most recent information obtainable before the commencement of the summer season. As of course infallibility cannot be attained, the Edi- tor will highly appreciate any bond fide communications with which he may be favoured by travellers , if the result of their own experience and observation ; and he gratefully acknowledges those already received , wiiicli have in many instances proved most serviceable. 1 000867 YI PREFACE. The Maps and Plans, the result of much care and research, will be of essential service to the traveller; they will enable him at a glance to select the best routes, and verj^ frequently to dispense with the costly and uncongenial services of guides. Time Tables. Information concerning the depar- ture of trains, steamboats, and diligences is seldom to be relied upon unless obtained from local sources. If Bradshaw is mistrusted, the ' Schwekerische Eisenbulm- CourshucJi , published by Kriisi of Bale, or that of Biirkli (40 c), will be found useful. Ziilligs Knrskarte (75 c.) is also a useful publication. Altitudes are given according to the Swiss Federal Map reduced to English feet; 1 Engl. ft. = 0,3(NS metre = 0,938 Paris ft.,, and the Populations from data furnished by the most recent census. Distances on high roads and railways are given in English miles ; w hile those on bridle and foot-paths , mountain-expe- ditions, and glaciers are expressed by the time in which they are ordinarily accomplished. Hotels. Besides the first class-hotels, many estab- lishments of more modest pretensions are enumerated, wiiich may be safely selected by the 'voyageur en garcon", with little sacrifice of real comfort, and great saving of expenditure. The scale of charges mentioned is either in accordance with the personal experience of the Editor, or based on an inspection of numberless bills furnished to him by travellers. Hotel charges, as well as carriage-fares and fees to guides, are of course liable to frequent variation; but an approximate statement of these items will often prove of service to the traveller, and enable him to form an estimate of his probable expenditure. CONTENT S. Page I. Plan of Excursion, etc XTII 11. Travelling Expenses. Money XX III. Hotels and Pensions XXI IV. Passports XXII V. Excursions on Foot XXII VI. Maps XXIV Vll. Guides XXVI VIII. Voituriers and Horses XXVII IX. Posting and Telegraphs XXVHI X. Railways XXX XI. History XXX Xll. Constitution and Statistics XXXII XUl. Geology of the Alps XXXV XIV. Glaciers XLI XV. Wrestling-matches XMll Route 1. Bale I '2. From Bale to Bienne (Bern and Neuchatel) through the Miinster-Thal ") I. From Uolemont to Porrentruy fj '2. From Moutier (Miinster) to the Weissenstein .... G 3. From Bevilard over the Montoz to Keuchenette ... li ;]. From Bale to Geneva by Neuchatel 7 1. Frohburg. Wartburg 8 2. From "Neuveville to the Chasseral ID 4. Soleure and the Weissenstein. Riithe. Hasenmatt 10 1. St. Vereaathal. Wengistein 12 5. From Bale tc Bern by Herzogenbuchsee I'd G. From Bale to Lucerne l-^ 7. From Bale to Ziirich by Olten 14 1. From Sissaoh to Aarau by the Schafmatt Ij "2. From the Baths of Schinznach by the llabsburg tu Hrugg lU S. From Bale to Z'irich by Waldshut and Turgi ... IT 9. From Bale to Schaft'hausen and Constance .... 19 1. Hohentwiel 'iO '2. The Island of Ueichenaii '20 10. From Friedrichshat'en (Rorschach) to Constance. Lake of Constance '20 I. From Constance tu the .Alaiiiaii 23 11. The Falls of the Rhine '23 VITI CONTENTS. Route Page 12. From Sohaflhaur>eii to Ziirirh 25 13. Ziirich and the Uetliherg 26 1. From the Tetliherg to the Albis-Hochwacht .... 32 '2. From Zurich to Repen.sherp 32 14. From Ziirich to Lucerne by Zug 32 1. The Alhi.9 route 33 15. From Zurich to Bern by Olten, Aarburg. and Herzogen- buchsee 33 Hi. from Ziirich to Friedrichshafen and Lindau by Komans- horn '. . . . 34 1. From Miilhcim to Constance 34 17. From Ziirich to Lindau by St. Gall and Rorschach . 35 1. Excursions fr(.m St. Gall 36 2. Excursions from Rorschach 37 18. From Ziirich to Coire (Chur). Lakes of Ziirich and Wallenstadt 38 1. From Lachen to Glarus through the Waggithal ... 41 2. From Ruti to the Bachtel 42 3. From Wesen to the Speer 43 4. From Miihlehorn to Jlollis over the Kerenzer Berg 44 5. The Murgthal 44 6. From Wallenstadt to Wildhaus in the Toggenburg over the Hinterruck 45 7. From Mels through the Weisstannen and Kalfeuser valleys to Vattis ' . 45 19. From Ziirich to the Rigi and Lucerne by Horgen, Zug, Immensee, and Kiisnacht. Lake of Zug 46 1. From Horgen over the Horger Egg to the Sihl-Bridge. Zimmerherg 46 2. Felsenegg. Hochwacht on the Zuger Berg .... 47 20. Lucerne and Pilatus 49 21. From Lucerne to Brunnen by Kiisnacht. Arth and Schwyz 54 1. Ropsberg 54 2. The Mythen 55 22. The Rigi 56 23. From Lucerne to Conio (Milan) by the St. Gotthard. Lake of Lucerne 66 1. Axenstein. Stoss. Frohnalp. Seelisberg 71 2. Grossthal. Kleinthal. Uri-Rothstock 73 3. From Klus through the Erstfelder Thai to Fngelberg 75 4. The 3iaderancr Thai. The Bristenstock 76 5. The Badus, or Six Madun 71) 6. From Airolo through the Val d'Oesch to the Valley of Formazza 81 7. From Airolo through the Piora Valley to St. Maria and Dissenfis (see R. 79. No. 2) . . . " 81 8. From Airolo through the Canaria Valley over the Xera Pass and Unteralp to Andermatt 81 24. From Lucerne to Altorf by Stansstad and Engelberg. Surenen 84 1. Stanser Horn. Buochser Horn 85 2. From Engelberg to the Titlis 86 CONTENTS. IX Rf.iite Page 25. From I.urenie ovor the Uriinis to Hrioiiz (ami MeiriiigPii) 87 I. From Lncernp to Alpnachrrpstafi bv land 8fi '2. Footpath from Stan.o.'itad to Sach.n'ln 88 3. Ttie Melchttial 80 \. From tlie Jlelclittial to Kn^<'llicrp over the Storrepp; or (tie .Turtili 80 0. From ttic Melchthal to Moirinpen over the Mclilialp . 80 6. From Gi.s!wyl to the Hrienzer Rothhorn 90 '2(3. Kroni Lucerne to Bern. Entlehurli. Eninipiithal . . 91 1. From Entlettuch or Trtibfjcliachen to the Na]>f ... 91 27. From Lucerne to Bern by Aarburg and Ilerzogenbuclisee 92 28. Bern 92 1. The Gurtcn 97 29. The Bcrnei^e Oberland 98 Plan of Excursion. Convcyance.s etc 98 a. From Bern to Thun ". 99 I. From Jliinsinpen to the Belpberf; 90 '2. Environ.s of Thnn. E.xcur.sion.s 100 3. From Thun to Freihurp: 101 b. The Niesen 101 c. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun 103 I. From Thun by the N. bank of the lake to rntcr.seen 103 (i. Interlaken and its Environs 104 I. I.onper Excur,«ions from Interlaken 107 o. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach . 109 1. From Zweiliit.schinen to Ei.senfluh and Murren 110 f. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Miirren. Fall of the Schmadribach Ill 1. Schilthorn 1I'2 '2. From Lauterbrunnen over the Furke to the Kienthal, and over ttie Diindengrat to Kander.steg 113 3. From Lauterbrunnen to the Eggischhorn tiv the Lauinen- thor 114 g. From Lauterbrunnen to CJrindelwald. Wenpernalp. Jungfrau 114 1. Lauberhorn. T.schugpen 116 !2. From Grindelwald to the Za.'senberg over the Ei.«ineer (Mer de Olace) IIS 3. The Mettenberg 118 4. The Mannlichen 118 5. From Crrindehvald over the SIrahlegg. or over the Lauter aarjnch. to the Grim.sel Hospice 110 6. Pa.i.ses from Grindelwald to the Eggi.schhorn ... 110 h. The Faulhorn 119 !. Rothihorn. Schvvarzhorn I'-M i. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. The Hosenlaiii Glacier. Falls of the Heichenbach 121 1. The Wetterhorn 1?^ ','. The Grindelalp V22 k. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Kothhorn. Lake of Brienz . 12o 1. Rrienzer Rothhorn 126 2. From Brienz to Interlaken bv the N. Bank of the lake . 126 X CONTENTS. Route Page 1. The Giessbach 127 1. From the Giessbach to the Faulhorn 128 '2. Footpath from the Giessbach to Interlaken on the S. Bank of the lake 128 30. From Meiriiigen to Engelberg. Jochpass 128 1. From the Engstlenalp to the Titlis 129 2. From the Ensistlenalp to the Gadmenthal over the Satteli 129 3. From the Engstlenalp to the Melchalp I3(t 31. From Meiriiigen to Wasen. Susten Pass . . . . 130 32. From Meiriiigen to the Rhone Glacier. Falls of the Handeck. Grimsel 132 1. The 'Finstere Schlauche' 132 2. The Urbach Vallev 132 3. From the Falls of the Handeck to Innertkirchen ... 133 4. The Finster-Aarhorn 134 5. The Aare Glaciers 134 6. The Little Sidelliorn 135 7. The Ewig-Schneehorn 135 8. From the Grimsel to Viesch over the Oberaarjoch . . 135 33. From the Rhone Glacier to Andermatt. Furca . . . 130 J. From the Furca across the Rhone Glacier to the Grimsel Hospice direct. Furcahiirner. Galenstfick 138 34. From the Rhone Glacier to Vispach. Eggischhorn . . 139 1. From Obergestelen to Airolo l)v the Xufenen Pass 139 2. LofTelhoru ' 140 3. From Viesch to Andermatten by the Albrun-Pass . . . 140 4. From Viesch to Iselle by the Passo del Boccareccio (Ritter Pass) ' 141 5. From Viesch to Premia by the Kriegalp Pass ... 141 6. Glacier -passes from the Eggischhorn to Grindehvald, Lauterbrunnen, and the Grimsel 141 7. From the Egiiischhorn bv the Liifschenliicke or the Beich- grat to the Lutschenthal" 142 35. From Obergestelen to Domo d"Ossola. Gries Pass. Falls of the Tosa. Formazza Valley 142 1. From the Falls of tlie Tosa to Airolo ])y the Pass of S. Giacomo 143 2. From the Formazza Vallev to the Val Maggia over the Criner Furca . . . . ' 144 3(i. From Thun to Leuk and Susten over the Gemmi. Baths of Leuk 144 1. From Miihlenen to Interlaken 145 2. From Frutigen to Lenk by Adelboden and the Haluun- moos 145 3. From Kandersteg to the Oeschinen-Thal (see R. 29, f. 3j 14G 4. F'rom Kandersteg to Lauterbrunnen by the Tschingel Glacier " 14U 5. The Balmhorn 147 G. Excursions from Leuk. Torrenthoin. Galmhorn . . 149 7. From Inden to Sierre 150 37. From Thun to Sion. Grimmi. Rawvl 150 1. The Diemtiger Thai * 150 2. From Lenk to Gsteig 151 3. Excursion to the Source of the Simmen 151 CONTENTS. XI Rovife Page 38. From Thun to Gesseney by the Simmenthal . . . . \i)'2 I. From Rfidonhach to TJiillo over the Kins, or over the Kailermoo.s • • l-^t-i '2. From Cresus over the Chessalle-Eck to the Lae Xoir I'jd ;i From Gesseney to Aisile V)y Chateau-dOex .... 154 !U) From Gesseney to Aigle over the Col de Filloii If):') 1. From Ormont-des.sus to Orion bv the Pas de la Crui.v 15f> 2. The Oldenhorn ....." 150 3. From (.!-e.s.seney to Sion \>\ the Saiietseli I.'jG 40. From IJiille to Moiitreux or Vevay by the .Moleson and the Jamaii I Til) I. From Alheuve and from ^'a^druz to the Mole.son . . . 157 '2. From Go.s.sency to BuUc hy Montl)ovon and Orayere . . 158 41. From l>ern to Lausanne (Vevay). Oron-l{ail\vay 159 I. From Flamatt to Laiipen 159 •2. From Ki.mont to Hulle 162 '6. From Che.vl>re.s to Vevay 163 4'2. From Bern to Neurhatel by Morat. Avenches. Payerne 103 1. From Bern to Xeuchatel by Aarbere and ln.s .... 163 '2. From Morat to Payerne 165 43. Nenchatel and the Chaumont 165 44. From Nenchatel to Le Lode by Chaiix-de-Fonds . and back by Les Pouts 168 1. From Nenchatel to Chan.\-de-Fouds by the Col de.s Loge.s 168 2. Roche Fendue. Saut du Doubs 169 3. From Locle to Xeuchatel. Diligence road by Le.s Pont.s 170 45. From Xeuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val de Travers 170 4(). From Nenchatel to Lausanne and Geneva. Lake of Nenchatel IT'2 1. From Yverdon to the (Jhasscron 173 2. Cren.v dn Vent 173 3. From Rolle to Orbe by the Col de Marcheiru/ and the Lac de Jf)ux 170 47. Lac de Joux. Dent de Vatilion 176 1. From Orbe to Le Pont by Vallorbe 177 4S. (Geneva 177 49. F^nvirons of (Jeneva. Fernex. .Vlont Saleve . . 186 1. The Voirons 187 50. From Geneva to Martlfj;ny by Lausanne and \illeneu\e. Lake of Geneva (Northern Lank) 188 1. The Dole 180 2. From Rolle to the Signal de Bougy 191 3. From Lansanne to the Signal and the l»rande.s Roches . 193 4. Footpath from Vevay to Jlontreu.x and Chillon along tlie .sloi>e of the mountain 195 5. Excursions from Montroiix 197 0. From Aigle to Villard. Ascent i>{ the Chamossaire . . 2(H» 7. From Aigle to Ormont. . . 'JOO 3. Val dlllifz. and ascent ..f the Dent dn Jli.li .... 2<>7 XII CONTENTS. Route Page 52. From rxeneva by Culoz and .\ix-les-Bains to Chambery, returning by Annecy 208 1. Perte du Rhone 208 2. Lac d\i Bourget. Haute-Comhe 209 3. From Aix-le.s-Bains to Annecy 209 ' 4. From Ugine to Sallanches or the Bath.s ol St. Gervais . 211 53. From Geneva to Chamouny 213 I. From St. Gervais over the Col de la Forclaz to Le.s Houches 215 54. Chamouny and its Environs 216 1. From Chamonnv to Sixt bv the Col du Brevent and the Col dWnterne . . . . ' 221 2. From Chamouny to Sixt by Argentiere and Mont Buet . 222 3. From Chamouny to Courmayeur over the Col du Geant 223 55. From Chamouny to Martigny over the Tete-Noire , or to Vernayaz by Trinquent and Salvan 224 I. Cascade du Dailly 226 56. From Martigny to Chamouny. Col de Balme . . . 226 57. Tour du Montblanc. From Chamouny to Aosta by the Col de Bonhomme and the Col de la Seigne . . . 229 1. From Chapiu to Pre-St.-Didier over the Little St. Bernard 231 2. Ascent of the Mont de Saxe near Courmayeur. Cramont 232 3. From Courmayeur to Martigny by the Ferret Vallev and the Col de Fe'rret " . . 233 4. From Pre-St.-Didier to Bourg-St. -Maurice by the Little St. Bernard 234 58. From Martigny to Aosta. Great St. Bernard . . . 235 1. Excursion in the Valsorey Valley 236 2. Ascent of Mf)nt Velan and the Grand Comhin .... 237 3. From the Hospice of the Great St. Bernard to Martigny by the Ferret Valley 239 4. From St. Remy to Courmayeur by the Col de Serena . 240 5. Becca di Nona 241 6. From Aosta to Courmayeur 241 7. From Aosta to Zermatt by the Col de Valpelline . . . 241 59. From Martigny to Mauvoisin ( Val de Bagne) and over the Col de Fenetre to Aosta 241 I. Col de Sonadon. Col de Crete Seche 242 60. From Bex to Sion. Col de Cheville 243 61. The S. Valleys of the Valais between Sion and Tour- temagne. (Val d'Herens, Val d'Anniviers, and Valley of Tourtemagne) 245 a. From Sion to Evolena by the Val d'Herens, and to the Val d'Anniviers by the Col de Torrent . . 245 1. Pic d^Arzinol 246 2. Glacier de Ferpecle 246 3. Glacier de TArolla 246 4. From Evolena to Zermatt by the Col d'He'rens . 246 0. From Evolena to Prerayen. Col de Colon 247 6. Col de Riedmatten. Pa's de Chevres. Col du Mont Rouge 247 7. The Sasseneire. Pas de Lona 247 b. From Sierre to Zinal by the Val d'Anniviers (and over the Col de Zinal to Zermatt) 247 1. Alp rAl]t 02. From Gampel to Kaiidersteg. Lotscheii Pass . . 2.')! 1. From Kippel to Lauteilirunnen l)y the Wetteiliicke ■ . '2bl '2. From Kippel to Lauterbiunnen bv the Peters or Lcitschen- thal Grat ." '2bl 03. Froui Martigiiy to Aroiia on Lago Maggiore by the Simplon 2;j3 1. From Tourtemagne to Jleiden 250 2. From Brieg to the Sparrenhorn 251 '6. From the Antrona Valley to Meigeren by the Saas Pass 2U1 04. From Vogogna to Vispach. Monte Moro 202 1. Pizzo Bianco 2fri 2. From Slacugnaga to Zermatt by the \Veis.sthor . 264 3. Stellihoni. From the 3Iattmarkalp h> Zermatt. Adler Pass. Allalin Pass 2tio 4. Shrine of Fee. Alphubeljoch 260 5. Gassenried Pass. From Saas to the Simplon Hospice. Mattwaldgrat 200 05. From Vispach to Zermatt, and by the Alatterjoch to Aosta 207 *■)(). Zermatt and its Environs. Kiflelberg and Goriier (irat 270 1. Glacier-e.xcursions from the Rifl'el 274 2. E.vcursion round Monte Rosa 275 3. Excursions from Zermatt 275 07. The Canton of Appenzell. Heiden , Gais , Weissbad, W'ildkirchli, Hohenkasten, Sentis 270 1. The Chapel of St. Antoni. Kaien. Gabris .... 27S 2. From the Weissbad to the Uhine Valley over the Hohen- kasten '. 2S(> 3. From Gais to Altstiidten in the \'allev of the Rhine over the Stoss ■ 28(» 4. From Appenzell to St. Gall. Frcilichsegg. Voglisegg. Freudenberg 281 5. From Weissbad to Wildhaus in the Tuggeuburg . . . 282 08. From Rorschach to Coire 282 1. St. Luziensteig 284 ()9. Uagatz and Pfafters 28;') 1. Excursiuns from Kagatz. Piz Aiun 287 2. From Ragatz to Reicheuau 287 70. Coire (Chur) • . 288 1. Mittenberg. Spontiskopfe 290 71. From Wyl through the Tog'renburg to Haag in the ^■alley of the Rhine 290 1. Fronj Starkenbach to \Ve,sen by Amden (AmmonI 291 72. From Wesen to the Baths of Stachelberg. Glarus . 292 1. The Schilt 293 2. Pantenbrucke. The Upper Sandalp. TOdi .... 294 3. From the Baths of Stachelberg to Dissentis by the Upper Sandalp and the Sandlirn ' . . . . 295 4. Fnmi the Baths of Stachelberg by the Claridengrat to the Maderanerthal " 295 5. From the Baths of Stachelberg to Ilanz l>y the Kistenpas.s 295 73. From the Batlis of Stachelberg to Altorf. Klausen . '-290 XIV CONTENTS. Route Page 74. From Wadenswyl . Rirhterswyl. or Rapperscliwyl to Einsiedelii 297 1. Hoch-Etzel. Schonhoden 299 75. From Einsiedelii to Schwyz and Hrunnen .... 301 1. Morgarteu 301 76. From Schwyz to Glarus by the Pragel 302 1. Wiggis-Chain 304 2. Olarnisch 304 77. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernl-Thal . . . 305 1. Over the Col de Flims or the Col de Segnes .... 306 2. Over the Panix Pass 306 3. From Matt to Sargans by the Rieseten-Pass .... 306 4. From Elm to Sargans by the Ramina-Furclen or the Foo Pass 306 78. From Coire to Andermatt. Oberalp 307 1. From ^'ersam to Spliigen bv the Liichli Pass .... 307 2. Piz Mundaun . . . . ' 30S 3. Lugnetz Valley 308 4. Piz Murann 310 5. From Dissentis over the Lukmaniur Pa.>;s to Olivone . . 310 6. From Dissentis over the Sandalp Pass to Stachelberg . 310 7. From Scdrun over the Kreiizli Pass or the Brunni Pass to Amstag 310 S. Source of the Vorder-Rhein 311 79. From Dissentis to Rellinzona. Lukmaiiier .... 312 1. From Perdatsch to the Cristallinenthal 313 80. Prattigau, Davos, Belfort, Schyn 314 1. From Klosters to Lavin and Siis in the Engadine by the Vereina Pass, the Laviner Joch, or the Silvretto Pass . 316 2. From Davos to Scanfs in the Engadine by the Scaletta Pass 317 3. From Davr)s-Dorfli to Siis in the Engadine bv the Fluela 317 4. From Davos to Coire by the Strela Pass 317 5. From Thusis to Conters 320 81. From Coire to Ponte (and Samaden) in the Engadine by the Albida Pass 320 82. From Coire to Samaden by the Julier 321 1. The Stsetzer Horn 322 2. From Lenz to the Baths of Alveneu and Bergiin . . . 322 3. From Stalla to Casaccia in the Val Bregaglia bv the Septimer * . . 324 83. The Upper Engadine from the Maloja to Samaden. Pont- resjna and its Environs. Piz Languard 325 1. Lake of Cavloccio. Forno Glacier. Fall of the Ordlegna 326 2. From the Maloja over the Muretto Pass to Chiesa and Sondrio 327 3. From Sils-Maria to the Fex Glacier 327 4. From Silvaplana to Pontresina by St. Moritz .... 328 5. From Silvaplana over the Surlej Alp to Pontrt-sina . . 328 6. Mountain excursions from St. Moritz. Piz "Nair . . . 329 7. Muottas. Piz Ot 330 8. Excursions from Pontresina 333 84. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine . . 335 1. Piz Uertsch. Piz Kesch. Piz Mezzem 336 2. Piz Griatschouls 336 3. From Zernetz to St. Maria in the Miinsterthal by the Ofener and Buft'alora Passes 337 4. Piz Mezdi. Piz Linard. Val Tasna. Futschoel Pass . 337 5. Piz Chiampatsch 338 6. From the Baths of Tharasp to St. Maria bv the Scarl-Thal 338 7. Piz Pisoc ' 339 CONTENTS. XV Rimtr Patje 85. From Samadi-n toTiraim l.y ihc I'.oriiiiiH. ami to ('olico by the Valtellina 33*.) 1. From the Bcrnina Hospico tn Bormin 34U 2. Piz Lagalp 340 S. Fontpath from tlir Bernina Inn ferneso Oberland were visited with so heavy a fall that they were ren- dered inaccessible to travellers for several days. On July 2nd, 1848, the snow on the (femmi was U/.j ft. deep, and did not disappear for some days. These are. however, exceptional ocur- rences; in ordinary seasons the snow disappears from the Rigi and the route through the Bernese Oberland at the beginning of Juno, but not till later on the Furca, the Grimsel, and the Gemmi. Companions. A party of two can be accommodated in a one- horse carriage or in the same room at a hotel , whilst a third would often be found 'de trop'. The more the number is ex- tended, as a general rule, the greater are the inconvenience and the certainty that many of the true objects of travel will be sacrificed. The single traveller who has attained some pro- ficiency in the language of the country will most speedily become acquainted with the people, their characteristics, and their land, as he is necessarily compelled to seek such society as the occa- sion affords. )i,«DEKER, Switzerland, .')tli Edition. h XVIII 1. PLAN OF EXCURSION. Distribution of Time. Four Weeks, as the annexed plan shows, will suffice for an active and observant traveller to visit the most interesting portions of Switzerland. A greater or less proportion of walking may be indulged in as inclination prompts. By the first steamer in I'l^ hr. from Fviedrichshafen to Constance , by Davs railway (R. 9) in 13j4 hr. to Schaffhattsen^ by railway in 10 min. to JJachsen. On foot in 1J4 hr. to the Castle of Lavfen, visit the Falls of the Rhine; cross the Rhine below the falls, ascend to Xeu- hausen (R. 11), return by the railway - bridge to Dachsen, and in 2 hrs. by railway to Zurich 1 Zurich and the Uetliberg (R. 13), Lake of Ziirich (R. 18) .... 1 From Ziirich in 1 hr. to Horgen by first steamer, to Zug in 3 hrs. bv diligence (or from Zurich to Zug by railway in DJ4 hr.), and to Imtnensee or Arth in 1 hr. by steamer, or from Arth to Goldau: On foot to the Rigi-Kvlm in 3i|2 hrs. (RR. 14, 18, 19, 21, 22) . . 1 Descent from the Rigi in 2'j2 hrs. to Waggis, bv steamer in ijo hr. to Lucerne (RR. 22, 23, 26) ". . 1 By steamer on the Lake of Lucerne in 23J4 hrs. to Fliielen^ by carriage in 2 hrs. to Amstdg^ on foot in 5 hrs. to Andermatt by the St. Gott- hard route, in 6 hrs. to Hospenthal^ or V\i hrs. to Real'p (RR. 23, 33) 1 By diligence over the Furca to the Glacier of the Rhone, on foot by the JIaienwand and the Grimsel to the Hospice (R. 33) : from Ander- matt to the Hospice in 7 hrs 1 On foot to Meiringen by the Haslithal (Fall of the Aare at the Hand- eck) in 6 hrs. from the Hospice (R. 32) 1 On foot from Meiringen (Falls of the Reichenbach) through the Ber- nese Oberland, by Rosenlavi and the Scheideck, to Grindelwald; from Meiringen to the Scheideck 5^l-> hrs.. thence to Grindelwald 2>|2 hrs. Glacier of Grindelicald (R. 29g) . ' 1 Bv taking an additional day, the Faulhorn mav be ascended from the Scheideck (4 hrs.), descent to Grindelwald 3 hrs. (R. 29 h, i). On foot from Grindelwald by the Wengern Alp in 8 hrs. to Lauter- brunnen (Staubbacli), and thence by carriage to Interlaken in IIJ2 hr. (R. 29f, e) ■ . . 1 If Lauterbrunnen be made the resting - place on the following day, Miirren and the cascade of Schmadribach (R. 29f) may be visited. Morning at Interlaken i by steamer in I hr. to the Giessbach (R. 29d. 1) - - . . . . 1 The following morning return to Interlaken by steamer in 1 hr., by omnibus in '[-'hr. to Xei>ha>/s, thence by steamer in I hr. to Thini (R. 29 e), by carriage in 1 hr. to Wi7nmis (pedestrians leave the steamer at Spiez and proceed in l'J4 hr. to Wimmis) ; on foot or horseback in 5 hrs. to the summit of the Niesen (R. 29b) .. . I Descent from the jMesen to Frutigen in 3iJ4 hrs. ; thence by carriage in 13|4, or on foot in 2iJ2 hrs. to Kandersteg (R. 36) 1 On foot from Kandersteg in 7 hrs. over the Gemmi' to the Baths of Lenk (R. 36) 1 (Jn foot to Svslen in 2' (2 hrs. (R. 36), bv carriage in 2 hrs. to Vis- pach (R. 63), on foot to St. Nicolaiis in k'^'n hrs. (R. 65) ... • 1 On foot to the Riffel in 8 hrs. (R. 66) 1 On foot from the Riffel Inn to the Gorner Grat and back 3 hrs. : in the evening to Zermatt 2 hrs. (R. 66) 1 Return on foot to Vispach in 8 hrs. (R. 65) 1 By diligence in 5 hrs. to Sion, thence by railway in 1 hr. to Mar- 'tigny (R. 63) 1 On foot to Chamouni/ bv the Col de Balmt or the Ti'te Noire in 9 hrs. (RR. 55, 56) ..." 1 I. FLAN OF EXCURSION XIX Days Chamouny (R. u4) 1 By diligence to Geneva in 6V^ hrs. (K. 53) 1 Geneva and its Environs (RR. 48, 49) 1 By steamer on the Lake of Geneva in 3 hrs. to Lausanne, some liours at Lausanne, and in the evening by last steamer in I'Ja hr. to Vnieneuve (R. 50) I On loot to (Jhillony Afontrenx, ClarenK, Vevay (R. 50), 3 hrs. walking; but by halting at the variovis points of attraction an entire day may be spent 1 Bv (diligence and) railway from Vevau \o Freibmg \n !^^\2hvf,. (R. 41| 1 By railway to Hern in 1 hr. (R. 41) 1 I'.y railway to Bale in 4 hrs. fR. 5) I Should the traveller have a few days more at coniniainl, the\ may be devoted very advantageously to Eastern Switzerland (Appenzell, Bad Pfaffers, Via Mala. Ipper Eiigadiiie). whence the Italian Lakes are roiiveniently visited. Rorschach (p. 37) or Ziirirh is recommended as head-quarters (comp. K. I8j. On loot from Rorschach to Heiden, to Troyen by the Kaien, and tu Days Gaix by the Gahris, in all 7 hrs. (R. 67) 1 On foot from Gais to Weissbad, to Wildkirchli, and the Ebenalp ; re- turn to Weissbad, thence to Appenzell, 6 hrs. fR. 67) I On foot from .Vppenzell to Gais, and to Altsfadten in the Valley of the Rhine bv the Sloss in 5 hrs. fR. 67), bv train in 1ij2 hr. to Ragatz (R. 68) 1 Pfdffevs and Ooive (RR. 69, 70i I By diligence in 3 hrs. to T/iusis, on foot in 3 hrs. by the Via Mala as far as the third bridge over the Rhine, and return to Thusis (R. 88), on foot in 4 hrs. by the Sch>m Pass to Tiefenkasten (R. 80) I By diligence in 6'i3 hrs. over the Albiila Pass to Ponlv fR. 81), and in 40 min. to Sainaden (R. 84): on foot in 1' ■_> hr. to Pontresina IR. 83) 1 A.scent of the Piz LangKard (R. 8^3) I By diligence in 7'|3 hrs. over the Bernina to Tirano, thence by 3Ies- sagerie to Sondrio in 3 hrs. (R. 85) (or by diligence in Sija hrs. over the Maloja to Chiarenna and Colico) I By Messagerie to Coliro in 5 hrs. (R. 85), thence by steamer to Como in 3 hrs. (R. 98) (Train to 3Iilan in li|2 hr.) I Return by the Lake of Como as far as Menaggio ( Villa CarloUa, p. 383. and park of the Villa Serbelloni, p. 384), and bv Porlezza to Lugano, see p. 380 " I By diligence from Lugano in 2 hrs. to Luino (R. 97), by steamer to the Borroniean Islands in I'i'j hr., and to Arnna in 1 hr. (Railway to Turin, Genoa (in 6 hrs.) etc., see Baedeker's X. Ilahi] ... 1 Ijv omnibus in 3 hrs. to Ortn on the lake of that name, by rowing- l>oat to Omegua in l'|2 hr.. bv carriage or on foot to Giarellona (R. 90) tor on foot in 3 hrs. to the Sacro Monte (p. 376), and bv the Monte Molleronc (p. 375) to Stresa (p. 37\1, or to Bareno (p. 373)1. and by diligence to Dona dOssola (R. 63) 1 By diligence over the Siinplon to B)-ieg and Vispa<-/i (R. 63) . . I instead of the passage of the Bernina (R. 8,)). choice ma\ be made between the Spliijren (RR. SS. SO), and the St. (intthard XX 11. TKAVKLLINO EXPENSES. MONEY. (K. 23). The St. Gotthard is the most beautiful of all the Al- pine passes, after which the Spliigen and the Simplon possess equal claims; the former is more interesting on the X., the latter on the S. side. The pass of the Great St. Bernard (R. 58) pre- sents the fewest points of interest, irrespective of its hospice. The following Alpine Excursion is recommended to ro- bust and practised pedestrians . as one of the most imposing in Switzerland : Erom Chamouiiy by the Col de Bonhomme. the Col de la Seigne. Courmayeur. the Col de Ferret (R. 57). the hospice of the Great St. Bernard. Aosta (R. 58). Chatillon. the Matter- joch, Zermatt [R. 66), Saas , Monte Moro , Macugnaga (R. 64). Yarallo. Orta. and Monte Motterone to Lago Maggiore (R. 95). The excursion will occupy 10 or 11 days of 9 to 10 hrs. : guides not absolutely necessary, but desirable for the passes. The most celebrated Points of View, for the most part easy of access and much frequented, are: J . In the Jura ( tlie Alps in the distance, the lower mountains of Switzerland to the N.E. in the ioreground. and more to the E. the lake* of Bienne, Neuchatel, and Geneva) : Hotel Schweizer/iof (pp. 23, 25) near the Falls of the Rhine: the Weissenstein (p. 11) irear Soleure •, the highest point of the old road from the Miuisferi/ial above Bienne (p. 7) : the Chattmont (p. 167) and the Col des LogeK (p. 168) in the canton of Xeuchatel : the •'Signal de Bougy (p. 190) and the Dole (p. 190) in the Canton de Vaud. 2. Nearer the Alps or among the Lower Alps-. (a). X. of the Alps : the Kaien (p. 278) and the Chapel of >S. Antonu (p. 278) in the canton of Appeuzell ; the UetUhevg (p. 31) near Ziirich ; the Rigl (p. 56), Mythen (p. 55), Pilatus (p. 52). and the Fvohiialp (p. 71), near the Lake of Lucerne: the Xiesen (p. 101) near the Lake of Thun :, the ■lainan (p. 158) in the canton of Freiburg : the fiaUve (p. 187) in Savoy, near Geneva. (b.) S. of the Alps: park of the l'/7/a Herhelloni (p. 384) on the Lake of Como : Monte Generoso (p. 366) and Monte 8. Salvadoie (p. 368) near the Lake of Lugano; Monte Motterone (p. 375) between the lakes Maggiore and Orta. 3. Among the High Alps: the Piz Langnard (p. 3:32) and I'iz Ot (p. 330) in the canton of the Grisons : the Schynige Platte (p. 107), the Paul- horn (p. 119). the Mannlichen (p. 118), the Wengern Alp (p. 114), Miirren (p. 112) and the fichilthorn (p. 112) in the Bernese-Oberland ; the Torrenthorn (p. 149), the Bella Tola (p. 250). the Gorner Grat (p. 272). the Eggischhon (p. 141) in the Valais ; the Col de Balme fp. 227) and the FU-g'ere fp. 220) near Chamouny. II. Travelling Expenses. Money. riie expense of a tour in Switzerland depends entirely upon the resources, habits, and inclination of the traveller. The pe- destrian's daily expenditure may (excl. guides) be estimated at about 10 s., if he frequents the best hotels; but a considerable saving may be effected by selecting houses of more moderate pre- tensions, and avoiding the mid -day tables d'hote. The traveller who avails himself of all the public conveyances , frequents the best hotels, and in mountainous districts engages the services of Jiorsp* and jriiirles . must be prepared to expend 20 — 25 s. per III. HOTELS AND PP:NSI0N> XXI (iieni at least. If ladies or children be of the party, the expenses are rather proportionably increased than diminished. The Swiss monetary system was assimilated to that of France in 1B54. Coins of o , 2, 1, and V^ fr. in silver; '20, 10, and ;") Rappen (centimes) in plated copper; 2 and i Happen in copper. 1 fr. =; 100 Rappen = (in German money) 8 Silber- groschen or 28 Rhenish kreuzers = 9'V4 d- French gold is the most convenient coin, especially for N. Italy. German florins (2 fr. 15 c). in the larger towns and hotels of the N. and K. of Switzerland, are exchanged for 2 fr. 10 c. , dollars (3 fr. Tf) c.j for 3 fr. 70 c English sovereigns (25 fr.) and banknotes are received at the full value at all the principal hotels and towns in Switzerland and N. Italy. The circular notes of 10 L, issued by many of the English banks, are recommended as a safe and con- venient form for transporting large sums. III. Hotels and Pensions. Switzerland may be said to have a specialty for hotels ; few better are to be met with in any part of the world. The modern establishments at Geneva. Vevay. Ziirich. Lucerne, and Interlaken are models of organization on a most extensive scale. The smaller establishments are often equally well conducted; indeed in French and German Switzerland a really bad hotel is rarely met with. The ordinary charges in the tirst-class hotels are : Bedroom 2 fr. and upwards , table d'hote without wine at 1 o'clock 3 or 4 fr. , at 4 o'clock or later 4 or 5 fr. ; breakfast [tea. or coffee, bread, butter, and honey) l'/.2 fr. in the public room, 2 fr. in the apartment of the traveller, wax-randle 1 fr. . service I fr. ; supper generally a la carte. In the hotels of more modest pretension the following charges may be accepted as the average: bedroom I'/.j fr.. breakfast 1 fr.. table d'hote 2 to 3 fr. , service discretionary , no charge for bougie : in fact about half the charges of the flrst-class establish- ments. It generally happens that the best accommodation in the largest hotels is reserved for families . whilst the solitary pedestrian finds himself no better off than he would have been in a less pretentious establishment, and no corresponding re- fluction is made in his bill. It must also be admitted that the estimation in which hotels are held varies very much with the temperament of the visitor^ themselves. Some are more exacting than others . give orders totally at variance with the (-ustoms of the country, and express great dissatisfaction if their wishes are not immediately comp]ie>d with, the unreasonableness of whii-h requires no comment. XXII IV. PASSPORTS. In the dull season (October to Jmie) many hotels arc con- verted into 'Pensions' or boarding-houses , in which guests are received by the week on terms ranging from 3 to 8 fr. per diem. This charge comprises bedroom , breakfast , table d'hote without wine, and supper (tea, bread and butter, and c^old meat); attend- ance about 5 fr. per month. Establishments for this express object abound in the neighbourhood of Lucerne . Geneva , Inter- laken, etc. Wine is generally a source ui' much vexation. The ordinary table wines are often so bad that refuge has to, be taken in those of a more expensive class , which is indeed the very aim and object of the landlord. The wisest course is to select a wine which is the growth of the country •, in "N. and E. Switzerland the produce of Schaffhattsen or Wintertlmr is recommended, in the Grisons Malans (p. 284), in the W. of Switzerland Lacote (p. 190), Lavaux (p. 193), Yvorne (p. 200), and Ncuchatel (p. 166). • If a Prolonged Stay is made at an hotel, the bill should he de- manded every 3 or 4 days, by which means errors, whether accidental or designed, are more easily detected. In the case of a departiire early in the morning, the hill should be obtained over-night. It is a favourite practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the hurry and confusion render overcharges less liable to discovery. IV. Passports. In Switzerland and IS . Italy as well as in Austria passports are now unnecessary. On the whole, however, taking into con- sideration that these documents are issued by the English For- eign Oftice on very inexpensive terms , and moreover that cases of unexpected difttculty may arise , when they are of service to the traveller by proving his identity and respectability , it is unwise not to be provided with a passport. The following are the principal passport-agents in London : Lee and Carter, 440 West Strand: Dorrel and So)i . 15 Charing Cross: E. Stan- ford, 6 Charing Cross; W. J. Adams. 59 Fleet Street. In France the obnoxious system has been revived in 1871. and the passport must be provided with the visa (10 fr.) of a French ambassador or consul, a fa^ot which should be borne in mind by the traveller who intends- 'proceeding to, or returning from Switzerland via France. V. Excursions on Foot. The pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of travellers; beyond all others he is able, both physically and morally, to enjoy a tour in Switzerland. Disposition of Time. The first golden rule for the pedestrian is to start on his way betimes in the morning. Where the con- stitution permits it, a two hours' walk may be accomplished be- fore breakfast. At noon a glass of good wine or beer, if obtain- able, with cold meat, or bread and cheese, form a suitable repast. V. EXCURSIONS ON KOOT. Will — Kepose should be taken diiring the hottest hours . and the journey then continued till 5 or 6 p. ni.. when a substantial meal (evenii-g table d'hote at the principal hotels) may be par- taken of. The traveller's own feelings will best dictate the hour for retiring to bed. Luggage. The greatest drawback to the pleasure of an ex- cursion is a superabundance of baggage ; to be provided with an actual sufficiency and no more . may be considered the second golden rule for the traveller. It is impossible to over-estimate the comfort of being independent of that industrious fraternity who make a prey of the overburdened traveller. Who has not ex- perienced the exultation which attends the shouldering of the knap- sack or wielding of the carpet-bag, on quitting a steamboat or rail- way station? Who in his turn has not felt the misery of that moment when, surrounded by his impedimenta' . the luckless tourist is almost distracted by the rival claims of porters, touters. and com- missionaires? A light 'gibeciere' or game-bag, such as may be procured in every town . amply suffices to contain all that is necessary for a fortnight's excursion. A change of flannel skirts and worsted stockings . a few pocket-handkerchiefs . a pair of slippers , and the necessary 'objets de toilette' may be carried with hardly a perceptible increase of fatigue: a piece of green crape or coloured spectacles to protect the eyes from the glare of the snow, and a leather drinking-cup will also prove serviceable. The traveller may have a more extensive reserve of clothing, especially if he proposes to visit towns of importance, but even these should be contained in a valise, which he can easily wield, and may forward from town to town by means of the post. Rules. The enthusiastic traveller should curb his ardour at the outset of his excursion, and begin by moderate performances, which should rarely exceed ten hours a day. Animal spirits are too often in excess of powers of endurance ; overstraining the energies on one occasion sometimes incapacitates altogether for several days. No little discrimination is often requisite to deter- mine when walking should be abandoned for the ease of a car- riage ; but all these experiences will be acquired without the aid of a guide-book. Suffice it to say, when a mountain has to be breasted . the prudent pedestrian will pursue the 'even tenor of liis way' (^chi va piano va sano ; chi ra sano va lontano') with regular and steady steps; the novice alone indulges in 'spurts'. If the traveller will have a third golden maxim for his guidance it may be: 'When fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases'. Excursions amongst the Higher Mountains should not be undertaken before July, nor at any period after a long continu- ance of rain or snow. Glaciers should, if possible, be explored before 10 a. m.. after which hour the ravs of the sun soften the XXIV VI. MAPS. crust of ice formed during the night over the fissures and cre- vasses. It is hardly necessary to state that Experienced Guides are absolutely indispensable for such excursions. The anticipations of a tour in Switzerland , which is nsually painted "couleur de rose", not iinfret^uently receive a rude shock from actual experience. The first Night in a Chalet dispels many illusions. Whatever poetry there may be theoretically in a bed of fodder, the usual concomitants of the cx)ld night-air piercing abundant apertures, the ringing of the cow-bells, the ;^onorous grunting of the swine , and the undiscarded garments, hardly contribute to that refreshing slumber of which the wearied traveller stands so much in need. Over all the movements of the pedestrian the Weather holds despotic sway ; those who claim acquaintance with the elements and their signs will tell him of numberless indications by which either foul or favourable weather may be predicted. It is wise, before iindertaking a long or difficult expedition , to consult these would-be prophets, whose prognostications, although not infallible, may often prove of value. Health. Finally a word may be acceptable on the subject of the Wounds and Bruises which few altogether escape in a protracted excursion. Tincture of arnica is efficacious in cases of this kind ; and , indeed , if rubbed on the limbs after much fatigue, it braces and invigorates. Saturnine ointment is serviceable in Inflammation of the skin, an inconvenience not unlikely to arise from exposure to the glare of the sun on the snow. Others recommend cold cream, and, especially for the lips, collodion, glycerine, etc. For Diarrhoea, 15 drops of a mixture of equal parts of tincture of opium and aromatic tincture may be safely taken every two hours until relief is afforded. The homoeopathic tincture of camphor is also recommended. VI. Maps. 1. Maps which comprise the whole of Switzerland on one sheet (mounted on linen) : *Zieylers Map of Switzerland (1 : 380,000), with explanations and index, pub. by Wurster and Co. at Winterthur, 4th Ed. 186H. Price 12 fr. Ziegler's Hypsometr. Map. (1 : 380,000), 4 sheets 20 fr. Leuthold's Map. (1 : 400,000), pub. by Leuthold of Zurich, 10 fr. Keller's Map (1 -.450,000), without plans 0, with plans 7 fr. ^Leuzinyer's Map (1:400,000), a reduced copy of Dnfour's Map, pub. in 1867. Price 10 fr. 2. Topographic Maps on a larger scale: VI. MAPS. XXV a. Of the whole of Switzerland. *Topograj)hic Map of Switzerland, from surveys made by order of the Federal authorities (under the superintendence of General Dufour); scale 1:100,000; 25 sheets, each 1 to 21/2 fr. (not mounted). Altitudes in French mf'tres. The following sketih exhibits the districts embraced by each. — A copy of this map on the reduced scale of 1 : 2r)0,000, which will comprise the whole of Switzerland in 4 sheets, is in course of execution. The two N. and the S. W. sheets have been recently completed. b. Of single Cantons. Maps on a still larger scale, also based on ordnance surveys. Aargau^ scale 1 : oO,000, 4 sheets, each 4 fr. *Freiburg, 1 : 50,000, 4 sheets, each 5 fr. *St. Gall and Appenzell. 1 : 25.000 , U) Maps, in 4 section-. ea(th 7 fr. (ilarus, 1 : 50,000, by Ziegler, (5 fr., mounted U fr. *Gene>m, 1:25,000, 4 sheets, the whole 12 fr. Thurgau, 1:80,000, 1 sheet, 6 fr. Grisons, i sheet, mounted 5 fr. *ZiiricK 1 : 25.000. 32 sheets, each '/o to 2 fr. (Nos. IS, 21. 22, 26, 27, 31 contain Ziirich, the Uetliberg. and the Lake). 3 Reliefs. M. E. Beck of Bern is about to publish an admirable relief- map of Switzerland on the scale of 1 : 100.000, area 60 sq. ft., 25 fr. per sq. ft. Heck's reliefs on a smaller si-ale are also well XXVI VII. GUJDES. executed: .Switzerland ( 1 : 500,000) in one jnap, 18l'r.. coloured 25 fr.; another (1 : 900.000) 8 fr.. to fold up lOfr: Interlakcu and the Oherland (1 : 200,000) 6 fr. ■ Lake of Lucerne (1 : 200,000) 7 fr. ; Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald 5 fr. ; Valley of P^ngelberg B fr. ; Simplon route and valleys of Vispach (1 : 200,000) 8 fr. Burgy's relief-maps . published by Georg at Bale , are also veil executed. VII. Guides. On such beaten tracks as those of the Rigi, Pilatus. Wengern- Alp, Faulhorn, Scheideck, Grimsel. Gemmi. etc.. the services of a guide may well be dispensed with by the robust pedestrian. If the traveller wishes to disencumber himself of his knap- sack , the first urchin he meets will gladly transfer it to his shoulders for a trifling gratuity. For the more difficult and dangerous routes, however, guides are absolutely indispensable ; they will be found, as a class, to be intelligent and respectable men. well versed in their duties, and acquainted with the people and resources of the country. The great depots for guides are Thun , Interlaken, Grindel- wald, Meiringen, Lauterbrunnen. Lucerne. Arth. Zug, Martigny. Chamouny. Zermatt, and Pontresina ; for traversing the Alps at any point . guides are always to be met with in the neigh- bouring villages. The ordinary Pay of a Guide is from 6 to 8 fr. for a day of 8 hrs. He is in most cases bound to carry from 15 to 20 pounds of baggage, and to hold himself at the entire disposition of his employer , whose temporary servant he is. They usually demand 6 fr. a day for the return home; but, as they have nothing to carry, better terms may occasionally be made with them , and they are bound to return by the shortest practicable route. Although a guide entails a considerable extra expense upon the traveller . the latter generally receives an ample equivalent. A good guide will point out a multitude of objects which the best maps fail to indicate : he furnishes much useful and inter- esting information upon manners and habits , upon battle-fields and historical incidents, on military routes and positions; and when the traveller reaches his hotel , wearied with the fatigues of the day. the many little services his guide can render him will often be found invaluable. Amongst a party of 3 or 4 the expense of a guide is of course greatly diminished; but as he is not bound to carry more than 20 pounds of baggage . tliey may more advantageously en- gage a horse or mule, the conductor of which will serve all the purposes of a guide on the ordinary routes. YIII. V0ITURIER8 AND H0RSE8. XXVII Adult porters are entitled to 75 cent, or 1 I'r. an hour, when not engaged by the day. return included. It is advisable to come to an express understanding previous to engaging their services, a sum being agreed upon which shall comprise food, return, and the inevitable -pourboire' . or extra gratuity. This is the surest way to avoid after disputes and discussions. A certain amount of good fellowship and confidence should subsist between the traveller and the individual who is perhaps to be his sole companion for some days. The judicious traveller will know- when to make with advantage the offer of a cigar or the spirit- flask, such attentions on his part being seldom thrown away. Travellers desirous of engaging a thoroughly trustworthy guide should be careful to select one of the Certificated. The guides of this class are required to pass an examination , and are furnished with legal certificates of character and qualifications. VIII. Voituriers and Horses. (rood vehicles are to be met with in all parts of Switzerland, but should be inspected before any engagement is made. If the Journey is to be of considerable length . it is judicious to have a Written Agreement, which it is usual for the voiturier to conclude by depositing a sum with his employer as earnest- money, afterwards to be added tc the account. The traveller has the right of selecting the hotels where sojourn for the night is to be made , the driver being entitled to determine where rest during the day shall be taken. The ordinary charge for a carriage with one horse is 15 fr. per diem, with two horses 25 fr. In the height of summer slightly increased terms are demanded ; the driver expects 1 fr. per horse as a gratuity. Like the guides, the voiturier demands the return-fare to the place where he was engaged, ;mu1 it is of course to the interest of the traveller so to arrange his journey that he may discharge his carriage as near as possible to the home of the driver. Keturn-conveyances may frequently be obtained for 10 to 15 fr. per day , but the use of them is in some places strictly prohibited. From 30 to 40 miles is the average day's journey, a halt being made of 2 or 3 hours about noon : but longer distances than these should be agreed upon for the return. In mountainous districts . inaccessible for heavy carriages, small vehicles or chars-a-bancs' , accommodating two persons only, are employed ; they cost from 12 to 15 fr. per diem, fees included. A Horse or MuLe posts 10 to 12 fr. per diem; the con- ductor expects a trifling additional gratuity (1—2 fr.). If he XXVIIl IX. POSTING AND TELEGRAPHS. cannot return with his horse on the same day to the spot wlience he started, the following day must be paid for; for example a horse from Hospenthal to the Grimsel is charged '20 fr., because the double journey cannot be accomplished in a day. The robust pedestrian will of course prefer to dispense with the assistance of a horse ; a prolonged ascent on horseback is at- tended with much fatigue, whilst the descent is positively disagree- able. For the fair sex the 'chaises-a-porteurs' are recommended, but even ladies may without difficulty attain the most frequented summits on foot. IX. Posting and Telegraphs. The postal communications in Switzerland, considering the mountainous nature of the country , are admirably organised, although somewhat slow. The public conveyances for travellers are under the immediate control of government , and are gene- rally well fitted up and provided with respectable drivers and conductors. Private posting is prohibited by law , but the pri- vate diligence or the 'Extrapost' furnished by the postal autho- rities forms a satisfactory substitute. The network of diligence routes under the supervision of government covers the whole country, embraces the Alps . and extends for a considerable distance into N. Italy. Diligences. The fare in the coupe in front , and (in sum- mer) the banquette on the top of the vehicle is on ordinary routes 80 c. per league of 3 M. , on mountainous routes 1 fr. 15 c. per league; the fare in the interieur 65 c. and 1 fr. respectively. Children of 2 — 7 years of age pay half-fare. Each passenger is allowed 40lbs. of luggage free; overweight is charged for at the ordinary postal tariff. Supplementary car- riages are provided when the diligence is full. These are often light, open vehicles, preferable to the lumbering 'Postwagen'. A seat in one of them may generally be procured by arrange- ment with the conductor. As a rule passengers are consigned to the interieur or to a supplementary carriage in the order in which they are booked. If therefore the traveller has failed tu secure a coupe or banquette seat by early application , he will probably succeed in avoiding the objectionable inte'rieur by delaying to take his ticket till the diligence is about to start. The average speed of these sedate 'mail-coaches' of Switzerland, including stoppages, is about 6 M. per hour on level, and 4 M. per hour on mountainous routes. Private Diligences. A diligence may be hired by a party at any of the principal stations, provided they engage all the seats at a charge of I'/o fr. each per league on ordinary, or 1^/4 fr. on mountainous routes. The vehicle is then placed entirely at IX. POSTING AND TELKGRAPHS. XXIX bf disposal of the travellers, who may halt for meals, oic. wherever they desire. ExtrapoBt. This is the term appli^ 1 to the Swiss system of posting , which as already observed is managed by government. The charge for each horse is 5 fr. per stage of three leagues ({) M.): that for the carriage varies f2 — 4 fr.); the driver's fee is left to the discretion of the traveller. A conveyance of this kind may be ordered at any post-office. The official time-tables of Biirkli . published at Ziiricli are recommended for reference. The local notices of the hours of departure and arrival should also be consulted at the post-sta- tions themselves. Seats for the principal routes may be secured several days in advance by personal application, by letter, or even by tele- graph, addressed to the post-office at the starting place. Where the communication is partly by steamer (e. g. the St. Gotthard. Briinig, Coire-Milan routes, etc.) tickets may be obtained on board without additional charge. Luggage, which ought to be carefully and distinctly addres- sed, should if possible be booked half-an-hour or an hour before the time of starting. The High-Roads in Switzerland are measured by Kilometres. or by eitjhths of leagues ( '/y Stunden . each about 3 furlongs ). 1 kilometre = 1093.6.^81 Engl. yds., or about 5/^ Engl. M. The distances are given in tlie Handbook in English miles, except in mountain expeditions . where hours are the usual and more convenient standard of distance. Letters (prepaid) : to any part of Switzerland ( 10 grammes in weight, about 1/3 oz.j 10 c, if within a radius of 6 M. 5 c. only; Germany and Austria (If) grammes, about ^o oz.) '25 c. : France, Belgium and Italy (10 gr.) 30 c. ; Netherlands and Great Britain (15 gr.) 30 r. ; Russia (15gr.) 50 c. : N. America (15 or.) SO r. Post Office Orders, issued within the limits of Switzerland only, must not exceed 500 fr. for the larger. '200 fr. for the smaller towns. Charge 20 c. for an order not exceeding 100 fr.. 10 c. more for each additional 100 fr. — With regard to money- orders to foreign countries, a convenience of which the traveller will rarely have occasion to avail himself, information may be obtained at all the principal offices. Telegraph - Communication exteiuls all over Switzerland. Zofingen (p. 13) being the central office. The tariff is as follows: For 20 words yi^ fr.. for every 10 words more 25 c.. within the limits of Switzerland. By the law which regulates the telegraphic service it is en- acted that "dispatches may be delivered at any post-office . and if the office is not also a telegraphic office, the dispatch shall XXX X. RAILWAYS. be transmitted without delay to the nearest. Dispatches are also received at all the railway-stations . for which an additional charge of oO <■. is made. X. Railways. The Carriages on the German Swiss lines (like those of Wiirtemberg , Austria . and Lombardy) are constructed on the American principle, generally accommodating 72 passengers, and furnished at each end with iron steps of easy act-ess . protected by a roof. Throughout each carriage, and indeed the entire train, a passage runs, on either side of which the seats are disposed. This arrangement enables the traveller to shift his position at pleasure provided the carriage be not unusually crowded . and facilitates a survey of the district traversed. The carriages on most of the French S }r i s s railways are of the ordinary construction . and inferior in comfort to those of the other lines. In French Switzerland the tifkets of the passengers are inspected as they leave the waiting-room . and given up at the ^Sortie' on their arrival. Luggage. Each passenger is allowed 20 lbs. . but if this weight be exceeded. V/2 cwt. is charged for. Travellers provided with direct tickets from the German to the Swiss railways , or vice versa . are recommended to assure themselves of the safety of their luggage at the frontier (Bale. Friedrichshafen. Lindau. Rorschach, Romanshornl. Return-tickets are issued on most of the Swiss lines at re- duced rates , some of them available for several days (Sunday- tickets). Excursion-tickets at very moderate rates are also issued by some of the compaines for certain routes or circuits , in- formatioJi concerning which will be found in the time-tables. These, however, cannot be recommended to the ordinary traveller, as they tend greatly to hamper his movements and to deprive him of the independence essential to enjoyment. XI. History. The limits oi tiiis work necessarily preclude in(»re than a i)riet histo- rical .sketch of the interesting country ;md people the traveller is now visit- ing — a country, the beautiful and romantic scenery of which can hardly be surpassed in any quarter of the globe — a people celebrated above all othei-s for the spirit of freedom nud independiMicr l»y which they are ac- tuated. It is liardly nece.ssary to carry the reader back to the period of the subjugation of Helvetia (the ancient Switzerland) by the Roman legions ■■, traces of that subjugation still e.vist in the Romanic language common to this day in a part' of Switzerland. Under the Roman sway Helvetia enjoyed a nourishing trade, which covered the land with cities and villages, and Christianity was introduced with its attendant blessing of civilization. A great irruption of barbarians was however destined to sweep through the peaceful valleys of the .Vlps, before which Roman civilization fled, and Burgundians, Alemanni, Ostrogoths, and Huns settled themselves in different part.s of the country. The .Vlemauni and Burgundians XI. HISTORY. XXXI introduced their law.s and custom.s, and the greater part of the country \vas occupied by the I'ormer tribe. To each soldier wa.s aUotted a farm : a judge or centgrave (Graf) was placed over a hundred of these farms : several of these hundreds or cents constituted a Gau (whence Thurgau, .\argau, etc.), and the centgraves were under a duke. In process of time tlie entire country fell under the sway of the French or Prankish empire, but the old constitution was retained. Christianity, which for a while had succumbed before the inroads of the barbaric horde's, once more exercised its mild and benignant influence, and the devastated tields again waved with crops of grain. On the partition of the Frankish empire amongst the Merovingians, Switzerland was divided between two sovereigns, one ruling over Alemannian, the other over Burgundian Switzer- land. Under Pepin the whole country was re-united, and during the energe- tic reign of Charlemagne the arts and sciences were cultivated and flourished. Under his feeble successors the centgraves or counts became more and more independent of royal authority, and eventually made their 'Gaus' hereditary; one of tliem, Rudolph, at the cbjsc f)f the 9th century, estab- lished the new kingdom of Burgundy, whilst the counts in other parts of •Switzerland conducted themselves like princes, and exacted vassalage from the people in their respective jurisdictions, whence arose a multitude of independent and complicated governments, the chiefs of which were per- petually at warfare with one another. The most powerful probably amongst these feudal families was that ol Hapsburg, and many inferior lords sought its protection. At the close of the 13th century. Rudolph of Hapsburg, as king and emperor of Germany, held a court in Helvetia: his rule was wise and salutary. Xot so that of his sons Rudolph and Albert, who encroached upon the rights of the Swiss people. The latter, who succeeded to the imperial power in 1298, bv the ty- ranny and obstinacy of his rule, gave rise to the first confederacy of tlu: Swiss cantances took place in the confederacy : the advance of liberal principles had been rapid, a universal desire for reiform pervaded the cantons, and general risings took place in various parts of the country. In the democratic cantons the desired reforms were so wisely and promptly granted, that little jeopardy was occasioned to the public peace ^ in the aristocratic cantons the opposition was stronger, and the proposed reforms were eftected with greater difficulty, but eventually the following concessions were made l)y the confederacy generally to the popular demands: the extension of the right of election, the liberty of the press, the abolition of privileges, the inviolability of the person, with other liberal institutions. The civil dissensions, however, wliich these events gave rise to, were the forerunners of the war (Nov. 1847) of the Sonderbund (Separate League), happily of brief duration : in 1848 a new federal constitution was inaugurated, highly conducive to the general prosperity and welfare of the country. Xo event of consequence has since occurred to disturb the public tranquillity, which it is earnestly hoped may long continue. XII. Constitution and Statistics. The Federal Constitution of Sept. 12th. 1848. contains among otliers the following articles : 3. The cantons are sovereign, in as far as their sovereignty is not limited by the Federal Constitution. 13. The Confede- racy is not entitled to maintain a standing army. Without the consent of the Confederacy no canton is permitted to maintain more than 300 regular troops. 23. Custom's dues are levied by the Confederacy alone. 33. The postal system is conducted by the Confederacy. 39. The e.xpenditure of the Confederacy is defrayed : "(a) by the interest of the Federal war-fund; (b) by the duties levied "at the frontiers; (c) by the revenue derived from the postal system : (d) by the produce of the gunpowder commission ; XII. coN^rnurioN and statistics. xxxui . •) by the produce of taxfs levied by consent of the Federal Assembly. i1. Ever)- Swiss of r*hristian confession is at liberty to setth- where he nieases. 43. Foreigners cannot become naturalised without first having icsi^ned their original nationality. 44. All rcliiiious sects are tolerated. \'). "The freedom of the press is granted. 57. Foreigners whose presence i-< regarded as prejudicial to the interests of the Confederacy may be ejected. 58. The order of the Jesuits is rigorously e.xcluded from every part of Switzerland. The following articles concern the 'Federal Authorities' : GO. The »upreme power is vested in the Federal Assemblv , consisting of the National Council and the Council of the States. 61. The National Council is composed of deputies , one being selected from each 20,000 of the entire population , and one at least from each canton. l>3. Every Swiss who has attained the age of 20 years is entitled to a vote. W. Any Swiss layman entitled to vote may be elected. 66. The National Council is electe'd for 5 years. 69. The Council of the States consists of 44 fijputies from the cantons, 2 from each canton. S^i. The Fedtral Council, the highest executive and administrative authority, consists of 7 members, "^i. The members are elected by the Federal Assembly for 3 years. 91. The several member.^ of the Federal Council superintend the administration I if the different departments (military, interior, finance, commerce, etc.). *4. The Federal Tribunal (consisting of 11 members) decides all legal juestions which concern the Confederacy. lOi. The court of assizes, with ;♦ jury, decides cases of breach of discipline on the part of officials, high Ji-eason and insubordination, political offences, etc. Area and Population cording to the decennial census of Dec. Is 1870. , Sq. Leagues C Confess on 1 Pop. Totals. ^ :„ C a n t n s. Rom.Cath. Prot. Jews. Sect. p. sq. league t) Zurich . . ■ 74,. 17,942 26.3,730 m 2,610' 281,786; 3,797 •T) Bern . . . , 294 66,022 436,291 1403 2,739i 506,455; 1,723 '.}) Lucerne . 1 W 128,338 3,8'23 98 79 132,338, 1,450 4) Uri . . . i 47 16,018 80 8 1 16,107; 343 5) Schwifz . . : 40 47,0i7 647 7 4 47,705, 1,192 6) Untenrald . : 33,5 •25,687 424 5 - : 26,116 778 7) Glarus . . ■ 29,s 6,888 28,239 17 7; 35,151; 1,179 8) Zug . . . 10,2 878 20,082 16 17 20,993, 2,058 9) Fribourg ; 71,1 93.951 16,819 47 15 110,832 1,551 10) Soleure . . ai,5 62;072 12,448 92 101 74,713 ^2,166 11) Bdle-ville . 1,. 12,301 34.455 516 488 47,760, '27,500 Bdle-camp . 18,5 10,245 43.523 131 228 54,f27 2,926 12) Schaffhausen : 12,9 3,051 ai,466 '24 180 37,721 2,9*24 13) Appenzell . ' (Rhodes ext.) 10,: 2,358 46,175 22 171 48.726 4,554 (Rhodes int.) 7,3 11,7'20 188 1 11,909 1,631 14) St. Gall . : 87,: 116430 74,503 192 190 191,015 2,178 lij) Orisons . . ' 30i,, 39,889 5l,&il 17 35 91,782! 302 16) Aargau . . 1 60,4 89,180 107,703 1511 449 198,873' 3,29-2 17) Thnrcjau ; 42,8 23,444 69,241 81 531 93,3a). '2,180 18) Ticiiio . . 121,6 119,350 194 36 40 119,6-20 a83 19) Vaud . . 138,7 17,785 211,493 610 1,812 231.7a) 1.670 JO) Valais . . 1 2-26,5 95,963 900 4 •20 96.887 436 21) yeuchdtel . i 3i,: ll,3i5 ai,334 674 931; dl:2i^4 2.S04 2-2) Geneva . . : i-2,\, 47,857 43,606 %1 77 1 ! 93.195 7,639 Total . . . , 1769,3 l,08i,6d5 1,-566,001 7009 ll,4'20,2,t;69,W5| 1,508 Census of 1860 — 1,0-23,430 1,476,982 4216 5,86612.507,170, 1,432 Increase ■ . \\ — | B.«DEKER, Switzerland. 61, -2351 89,019 5t.h Edition. -2793 5..5.5i 161.9-iJ XXXIV Xli. CONSTITUTION AND STATISTICS. Switzerland has therefore a population of 165 per Eng. sq. M. (Alpine Switzerland 52 , the remainder about 244). Geneva is the most populous canton (847 per sq. M.) . the Orisons the least (33 per sq. 31.). Of every ICKX) souls 585 are Prot. . 411 Rom. Cath. , 2 Sect. . 2 Jews; of these 702 speak German. 226 French. 55 Italian, and ITEomansch. Of the 556.000 house- holds of Switzerland 465.(X)0 possess landed property ; of the entire popula- tion of 2.669.095 about 500.0CXJ only have no landed possession. In Switzer- land 1 person out of 20 lives by aims, in England 1 out of 8, in France and Holland 1 out of 9. Of 100 sq. leagues of land 20 are pasture . 17 forest. 11 arable, 20 meadow. 1 vineyards, and 31 uncultivated or occupied by water, roads, dwellings, etc. Education. The German part of Switzerland possesses three Univer- .'ities, those oi Bale, Bern, and Zurich, with 115 professors. 30 private tutors, and 500 students. French Switzerland possesses three Academies, those of Geneva . Lausanne, and Neuchatel. with faculties of theology . philosophy, and jurisprudence. 45 professors, and 370 students. About 70 of the latter at Geneva are foreigners . chietly French Protestants. The Federal Poly- technic at Zurich, founded in 1855. also deserves mention: it possesses a philosophical faculty and 46 teachers, some of them professors at the uni- versity, and is much frequented by foreign as well as native students. The Army consists of the Buncles-Auszug (Elite Fedtrale) and the Re- serve, consisting of the able-bodied male population between the ages of 20 and 34: and the Landicehr, comjwsed of men. not included in the above classes, up to their 44th year. To the two first classes belong 105,463 in- fantry soldiers. 9227 riflemen. 3006 cavalry, 10.656 artillery. 12 park-com- panies with 2870 men , 2332 sappers and miners . etc. . forming a total of 133,949. The number of the Landwehr is computed at 67.000. — The -Cadets" Institute'^ provides an admirable preparatory training for military service in Switzerland. This is an arrangement "by which the pupils ('cadets") of all the principal schools receive instruction in military tactics, being provided by government with muskets and cannons (2 and 4 pounders) for the purpose. On these occasions they wear a uniform : and their annual reviews . when the cadets of several cantons frequently assemble. are a source of boundless delight to these embryo warriors. Industry, .\ccording to the most recent statistics of Switzerland, 1.900.000 souls are supported bv agriculture. The number of cattle (oxen, sheep, and eoats) amounts to 2.200.000. valued at 6.400.000 ;. The annual export of cattle is 85.000 (50.000 oxen) ; import 194.000 (67.000 oxen\ 17.(X)0 tons of cheese are annually manufactured, of which 7000 tons are exported. — The manufactories emplov 180,000 persons . the handicrafts i5(J.Ci00. In the canton of Bale 1,400,0000 pounds" worth of silk ribbon is annually manufactured by 6000. in the canton of Ziirich about 1.600.0CO pounds'' worth of French "silks by 12.000 operatives. The manufacture of watches and jewellery in the cantons of Xeuchatel. Geneva. Vaud, Bern, and Soleure occupies 36.000 workmen . and represents an annual sum of 1.8t;!0.CKX) Z. : 500.000 watches are manufactured per annum. 3 :ths of the number being of gold, ■» :ths of silver. St. Gall and Appenzell produce annually about 4OJ.000 pounds' worth of embroidery, which occupies .6000 hands. The printing and dyeing factories of Glarus manufacture goods to the value of 6lO,000 I. per annum. The manufacture of cotton goods employs upwards of 1 million spindles. 4000 looms, and 20.0CK) persons : hand-looms 38.000 persons : straw-plaiting (Aargau . Lucerne . Bale) 30.000 : machine- buildins (principallv at Ziirich) 6000. The total imports amount to 12.800.000 ?., the ex"ports to 11,600.000 I. annually. The industrial prospe- rity of Switzerland is mainly attributable to the moderation of the import- duties, which enables its products to compete successfully with those of every European mart. The highest import-duty levied (on articles of luxury) amounts to 12 .«. per cw^t. XXXV XIII. Geology of the Alps, f Alps is the term applied to the vast mountain ranges which extend from Nice on the Mediterranean Sea towards the X.E. through southern France. Switzerland, the Tyrol, and Styria, to the Leitha on the Hunga- rian frontier. Of these the highest are tlie Central Alps, situated in Savoy and Switzerland. They are subdivided into the Pennine Aljis (p. 239) e.\- tending from the Col de Bonhomme (p. 231) to Monte Rosa (p. 263), and including Mont Blanc (p. 222) ; the Lepontine or Siciss Alps, extending from St. Gotthard (p. 80) to the Vogelberg (p. 363); and the Rhaetian Alps, ex- tending from the sources of the Hinter-Rhein (p. 362) over the Bernina (p. 331) to the Ortler in the Tyrol (p. 345). The central point of these ranges is the Furca and St. Gotthard group, from which the Alps of the Vaiais and Grisons branch in a southerly, and the Bernese and Rltenish Alps in a northerly direction. According' to their elevation the Alps are usually divided into the Higher Alps, or those portions above the snow-line (8000' on the X. , and 830O' on the S. side) : the Middle Alps , or those portions between the region of perpetual snow and the boundary of the growth of trees (45(X)') : and the Lower Alps, or those between 45U0' and 2000' above the level of the .sea. In Switzerland three districts may be distinguished, diftering essen- tially in their geological formation. A line drawn from Schafhausen through Aar'au and yeucfidtel to the base of Mont Dole, X. of Geneva, separates two of these districts from each other, the Jura Range from the Siciss Hill Count rn. The latter extends to the base of the Alps, which con- stitute the third and most important of these districts. The f'jrmation of the Jura Range consists essentially of strata remarkable for their repleteness witli organic remains , and also known as the 'Jura formation' in other parts of central Europe. The subdivisions of this formation, its stratification, and the remains, principalh- of shell-fish , which characterise the ditVerent strata , are well known. The position of the strata resembles the surface of a troubled sea, or numerous layers of cloth , placed one upon another and subjected to lateral pressure'. On the borders of the Black Forest^ and in the g!'ef.ter of these layers , which extend southwards beyond Bale , the lower strata of the Tri'assic Sijsteni, the Kevper Marls, Muschelkalk, and Bunisandsiein, are the most prominent, and all organic remains which they contain difler from those of the Jura group. From the lake of Bienne, in a southwesterly direction, more recent strata occur, belonging to the creta- ceous system, and known as Xeocomian Deposits. At the base of the Jura these strata are covered by a far more recent formation, which comprehends the entire district of the Swiss Hill Country, in its turn bounded by the lower Alps , of which the Rigi is the most celebrated from the magnificence of its view. This formation belongs to the section of the Tertiary System known as Meiocene, the vast beds of conglomerate containedin "which are called Xa gel flue (,p. 54). It is. geologically, a very recent formation, and proves what vast transforma- tions the earth's surface has undergone at a comparatively recent date. The larger towns of Switzerland are situated in this district : .S7. Gall. Zurich, Lucerne, Soleure, Bern, Freiburg, Lausanne, and Geneva, as well as the two large basins of the lakes of Geneva and Constance. The strata of the Meiocene contain in two sections remains of fresh- water animals and plants (found in abundance at the quarries of Oehningen), t The most recent geological rc-ei'.rciies m Switzerland and spociaJ maps of the Alps and Jura are to be found in the 'Deitrdge :iir Geologic d^- Sc'iicei:' (published by Dalp of Bein at the expense of government). XXXVI Xlll. GKOLOGY nv THK ALPS. and in an intermediate section remain* ol' marine animals. The Nagil- flue consists essentially of boulders and rounded stones belonging to formations entirely foreign to the Alps of the pre,«ent day. In order to account for this, it is conjectured that at the period of the formation ot this rock a chain of lower hills, consisting of various species of granites, porphyries , quarzites , etc. , formed the spurs of the higher Alps. The Nagelflue mountains arc formed by the deposits of those ancient streams which unquestionably descended from the region of the Alps :, and their occurrence in a number of different districts indicates the various directions in which these rivers must have llowed. The position of the strata deviates little from their original , nearly horizontal direction, and takes the form of a basin between the .4lp.s and the Jura range, the shores of the former Meiocene sea. At the distance, however, of about 7 )I. from the base of the Alps . the inclination of the strata alters, and from this point onwards, turned towards the S.E. in the direction of the Alps, becomes more and more abrupt. From Rorschach as far as the Lake of Thun two undulating folds oi the strata, protruding over each other chiefly from S. to X., are traceable in this sub-alpine 3feiocene formation. This position can only have been occasioned by some vast convulsions in the solid criLst of tlie earth after the first deposit and con- solidation of the strata, and may be regarded as a prelude to the compli- cated rock-formation of the Alps themselves. Almost the entire hilly country, and even the lower slopes of the Jura are covered with in- numerable Erratic Blocks and glacier detritus. The nature of the rock and the origin of the blocks, as well as their disposition in moraines, render it probable that during the ice-period the glaciers of the Rhone. Aar, Reuss , Limmat, and Rhine covered the entire district. To these formations, moreover, the .soil is indebted for its remarkable fertility. The N. boundary of the Swiss Alps extends from the 1. bank of the Rhine, a short distance below thi^ influx of the III (p. 350), in a zigzag line S.W.. to Vei'ay on the Lake of Geneva. The S. extremity of this mighty range is in the vicinity of the Lake of Lugano, while the E. portion extends into Piedmont and the Austrian states. On the Northern Side of the Alps a belt . varying in diameter . com- posed of fossil ifer< HIS f, portions of this belt of a still more remote date occur, find are considered to belong to the Triassic System. The rocks of these formations on the outskirts of the Alps bear so little similarity to others of the same formations on the X. and W. side of this great range in Germany and France, that is has been a matter of the ut- most difficulty to arrive at a satisfactory conclusion on the subject. The limestones, which occur in the former in enormous masses, are of a dark- grey, or nearly black colour, of a close texture, slightly crystalline, veined with a network of calcareous spar, and bearing a close resemblance to the limestones which usually occur in older formations. Hence arose diffi- culties of classification, which were not solved until attention was drawn to the organic remains found in this northern belt of the Alps. These form the sole clue to the labyrinth of Alpine formations, and prove a surer and more trustworthy criterion, in proportion as a minuter acquaintance is made with the organic remains in the adjacent districts. Thus the same organic remains have been found here as those which occur in the Eocene .'Strata near Paiis, and it has been satisfactorily proved that these recent formation^ have participated in the same irregularitie.s which have taken place in the Alpine chain. A similar relation ha.s been observed between the chalk formations and the Jura Group on the northern boundary of the Alps. A variation in the character of the organic remains XIIT. GEOLOGY (►F THE ALPS. XXXVII tends to prove that the Jura «tr;ita niu.«t have been deposited in the depths of the ocean, while those to the N. of the Swiss hill-country were probably formed on the beach or shallower portions of the sea. The relations between these three formations, the Eocene^ the Chalky and the Jura groups, which are invariably found in juxtaposition, are of an extremely complicated nature. Th<- strata are ujiheaved in the most contorted forms , and present the appearance of having been folded to- gether, so that among the higher and more inacci'ssible mountains it has been a task of the utmost difficulty to ascertain the extent of these for- mations. Difficult as it may be to 'account for some of these phenomena, it has , at least , been clearly proved by the indefatigable researches of eminent Swiss geologists , that these .•strata have been upheaved from the depths of the ocean in which they were deposited, pressed together, and forced aside (i. e. to the N.) by the principal formations of the Alpine chain. This accounts for the fact that the lowest strata are frequently found on the surface. The Central Alpine Zone consists of rocks of an entirely ditTerent character. The principal raassSt. Gotthard possesses a rich treasure in its Minerals (pp. 67, 79). Those in the external central masses display a great uniformity , the same species occurring at Oisans , on Mont Blanc , on the Finsteraarhorn. and on the St. Gotthard: such are the micaceous iron-ore, titanite , sphe/te, fluor-spar, apatite, axinite, tourmaline, and the entire series of zeolites. On the S. frontier of the Valais, from the Great St. Bernard over the lofty summits of the Dent de Rang, Dent Blanche, and the Matterhom, i!s far as tlie Weissliorn and Sijnplon, extends a range of crystalline felspar- rock, which may not only be regarded as a central mass entitled to rank with others , but even as" the true Central Chain of the Swiss and Italian High Alps. The highest summits of the Alps, Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa, though not within the limits of this mass , are in its immediate vicinity. — It forms a transition from the fan-shaped mountains , situated nearer the external (N.) zone of the Alps to the more horizontally extended gneiss masses which form the internal zone. The fan shape is not easily dis- tinguished, the symmetrical arrangement of the difl'erent species of rocks is wanting : interstratitications of marble and limestone are more frequent, serpentine and gabbro occur, and in the S. part even syenite. This Cen- tral Mass is moreover especially remarkable for its intimate connection with the associated Slates; the strata are in some places strangely inter- mingled, whilst in others they gradually blend. Gneiss and G re p Slate often occur as an inseparaVde mass, and give rise to one of the difficult problems in geology. The basis, a variety of protogine, is termed Arkesine, and seldom protrudes through the snows and glaciers of the highest moun- tains. On the Matterhom and in its vicinity the level of the Green Slate, which forms the summit of this gigantic mountain, is observed to vary as much as 3000', the basis being Gneiss and Mica Slate, unbrokenly connected with each other . as Giordano has demonstrated. Erosion followed by XIII. GEOLOGY OF THE ALPS. XXXIX slips can therefore alone account for the phenomenon of this isolated, tooth- like peak, which must be regarded as but a scanty remnant of a once far more massive chain. Towards the S.W. the masses of Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles Rouges stand in the same relation to these central masses as those of the St. Gott- hard and Finteraavliorn to the N.E. In these the Fan-Structure and the Granitic Basis again become fully developed. The N.E. or nearly N. extremities alone of these masses extend into Switzerland, to the S.W. of the canton of Valais as far as Martigny. In the Alps of Ticino Gneiss and Mica Sc h i s t predominate. The pecu- liar character of the central mass hitherto followed in the species of rocks and phenomena of structure almost entirely disappears. The dubious Chlorite, Talcose, and Mica Schists no longer intermingle with the rocks of the basis, but occupy a distinct position on the external zone. The Gneiss predominates in the valleys and lower slopes, the Mica Schist in the higher mountain regions, forming, for example, the ridge and summits of the Campolongo Pass as far as the Pizzo Forno , an im- portant point for trigonometrical measurements. The structure is here extremely complicated , the disruption of the rock horizontal, and th'; lamination of the mica-schist nearly vertical; the formation of the l)a8i.s is much contorted and fractured. In the upper Val Maggia a meridional direction of the mountain- strata appears, completely at variance with their general direction of the portions of the Alps ali-eady considered, and the principal direction of the entire range. This variation is not confined to the littie-known mountains of Ticino, but may be traced as far as the Upper Engadine, and pre- dominates in the entire chain from the upper Val Maggia to the Maloja, 54 M. in length, and from Chiavenna to Vals, or about 32 M. in breadth. This direction and the inclination of the strata towards the E. appear to be indications of the ancient Amphitheatre of mountains which is con- jectured to have enclosed Piedmont, previous to the changes in the earth's crust which occasioned the present configuration of the Alps. The gneiss which particularly characterises Ticino, first occurs in the W. in the basis of Monte Eosa and the precipices and clitTs of the valley of Macugnaga (p. 2GS), the grandest basin in the Alps. In the higher regions it blends with the Mica- Schist, of which the four principal peaks of Monte Rosa appear to be exclusively composed. The Main- Group rests on a Meridional Chain, a huge wall of rock, which from Stalden (p. 267j above Vispach to Ivrea at the S. l)ase of the range has a length of 50 M. and throughout half of this extent an altitude of not less than 10,000'. This forms a dyke or barrier between the Pennine and Lepontine Alps. In a similar manner the Adula Range, to the E. o* the Alps of Ticino, though less elevated, forms the boundary between the Lepontine and Rhaetian Alps. This broad mass is bleak and desolate , without strongly defined summits, and covered with snow and glaciers which rarely descend from the heights, the declivities being too precipitous, and not penetrated by valleys. This is the cradle of the Rhine (p. 362). The meridional valleys are longer and formed at a greater depth. In the entire extent of the group, the strata decline towards the N.E. and E. Gneiss therefore constitutes the basis in the Val Blegno. Indi- cations of a barrier between the Adula Range and the Alps of Ticino are observed in the limestone and marble masses c(nitained in the gneiss near Rosso and Landarenra in the Val Calanca, which form the associating links between the black slates of S. Bernardino and those of the Val Blegno. The Gneiss Mass which extends along the Spliigen Route from Schams to the Ro,fla (p. 357) and Ftrrera (p. 356) attains, its most complete development in the snowy and glacier -clad summits of the Sureta Alps. The peculiirities of this Ce,itral Mass are particularly remarkable in the vicinity of the Spliigen Pass. The Rojfla consists of "porphyric or XL XI n. GEOLOGY OF THE ALPS. rani tic G net us. At the SplUgen Pass, as well as along the entire limit of the crystalline schists, gneiss, mica schist, and calcareous Black and Green Schists, intervening rocks occur, of which the predominating are 'Ranch wacke\ perforated with the so-called 'chamois caverns'', marhle, and slate, which in some cases tend to the mica-schist and gneiss, in others to the clay-slate. Thus it is also at the Via Mala (p. 355), be- tween the slate of which and that of Curver a series of dolomite gneiss and limestone intervenes . the apparent continuation of the talcose, calcareous, and felspar masses of the J^^ezza and Albine Alps. The Crystalline Slates which extend from this point to the S. adjacent zone, scarcely admit of a general classification. They are partly dependent on masses of granite and syenite, and partly vary between chlorite schist, hornblende, mica schist, and gneiss, without as^suming a definite character. The position of the strata and lamination cannot be reduced to primary laws. The lofty range of the Bernina, on the frontier of the Gvisons and Valtellina, rises as a Central Mass in the space between the Val Camonica and the Upper Engadine. Its gneiss is intersected at Cavaglia (p. 340) and Pisciadella by the two Bernina routes, and is almost entirely encircled by granite, hornblende, and serpentine, which occurs in none of the other central masses. The structure of the Bernina exhibits no tendency to the fan-shape, the rocks being exclusively schistous, and diflering from the granitic gneiss and protogine granites of the N. and W. central masses. The declension of the strata is always to the N. and N.E. The G r a n i t e of Brusio ( p. 341) appears in the huge .slate formation declining to the N. as a considerable intervening layer only, as on both sides the inclination of the gneiss and mica slate is the same. The Central Mass of the Silvretta, between the Engadine and Vorarl- berg exhibits, in common with the more western central masses on the verge of the Central Zone the Fan- Shaped structure, the Super- position of the C rij stall i ne Slates over the Jura and more Recent Strata, and the occurrence of Granitic Gneiss in the axis of the fan. Another characteristic of this mass is the vast extent of the Horn- blende Schists whicli partially supersede the gneiss, and the meridional extension of the associated varieties of rock, so that the longitudinal axis of the mass corresponds neither to the direction of the laminatidn nor the watershed. The Granite, which from the W. extremity foims the axis of the range, extends over the eminences of the Silvretta, Fermont, and Jamthal snow-movmtains from the source of the Landquart (p. 284). and the III fp. 350). An attempt has thus been made to trace the central masses from the centre as far as the E. and W. limits of Switzerland. Alpine Farming. In spring, as soon as the snow melts on tlie N. side of the Alps, and the first herbage makes its appearance, the cattle are released from their winter confinement, and driven to the lower pastures; about the middle of .Tune higher regions ai-e ascended, and at the com- mencement of July a portion of the herds attain the most elevated pastures. At the beginning of September they descend to the lower districts, and about October 10th return to the valleys and their winter- quarters. In summer the best cows yield from 15 to '20 quarts of m.ilk daily, from which, during the pasture season of 4 months, about 2 cwt. of cheese is prepared, realizing on an average 50 cent, per pound. The best quality of cheese is produced on pastures 3000* above the level of the sea. the most favoured districts being the valleys of the Emme (p. 92). the Simmen (p 153), and the Sarine (p. 154). The herdsman (Senne) with his boys has abundant occupation in assembling his 80 or £0 cows twice daily to be milked, in superintending the preparation of the cheese, and cleaning the vessels employed in the process. The stables or huts (Fr. Chalet, Oer. Sennhiitte) in which the cattle and herdsmen are housed during the night, and the cheese manufactured, are rudely constructed of pine-logs, and not always impervious to wind and rain' the fiat roofs f the glacier is termed Firii (Fr. AVrt*), which at a lower ekvatitn, where the sun's rays become more powerful, gradually blends with the ice of the glacier, fonned as already described. The glacier is therefore, as it were, the niT-^hoot of the Fiin! but is easily distinguishable fiom it, the surface of the ice being luunded towards the margins, and that of the Firu towaids the centre. Whilst the fall of snow and the formation of glacier-ice suHer no inter- ini«si the mechanical pressure exercised by the masses of snow on the upper portions, whilst the lower extremities gradually melt away. Agassiz (p. 135) and his disciples maintain that the increase of glaciers is owing to the rain and snow which penetrate into the fissures, and, being converted into ice, tend to force the glacier downwards. Forbes is of opinion that the glacier is a sluggish stream which, notwithstanding the apparently brittle nature of the ice, possesses sufficient plasticity to accommodate itself to the irre- gularities of its bed. The masses of rock and detritus which become detached from the mountain-sides descend either to the glacier itself or to its margins, and, as the glacier continually, but imperceptibly advances, form long walls or barriers on either side. These are termed Lateral Moraines (Germ. Gandecken). When two glaciers meet, their lateral moraines extend over the surface of the ice, and form long walls of rubbish, termed Medial Moraines (Germ. Gufferlinien), which, conveyed by the glacier to its lower extremity, and there deposited, constitute the T e r minal Morain e (Germ. Stirnwali). The stones of the latter thus generally afford a clue to the nature of the inaccessible rocks of the higher Alps. The formation of ice on the upper portion of the glacier is usually exactly compensated by the absorption and dissolution of the ice etTected by the agency of the sun and air, and the glacier seldom advances beyond its accustomed bed. This, however, is by no means invariably the case ■■, in 1818, the terminal moraine of the Rhone Glacier ( p. 137) for example, ad- vanced 150'. The lower extremity of the glacier, or tongue, as it may be called, then forces everything before it — soil, turf, stones, trees, and the ruins of human habitations — forming a huge wall with the rubbish of its lateral and medial moraines. If, on the other hand, the formation of ice is exceeded by the consumption, the glacier decreases, draws in its feelers, so to speak, and retires into the narrow mountain-gullies. The former extent of the glacier can in this case be traced by the position of the terminal moraine (p. 132). Warm seasons (1811, 1822, 1827. 1834) occasioned retrogression, whilst an advance of the glaciers, sometimes amounting to 2' dailv, was observed in the vears 1815-17, 1828-30, 1836, 1837, 1857-59, and finally in 1861. Large slabs of rock are occasionally seen on the glaciers, supported by pillars of ice. These so-called Glacier Tables protect the ice on which they rest from the influence of the sun's rays, while the ice in their vicinity dissolves, thus insulating the -table'. Smaller objects, such as stones, leaves, or even a dead insect, produce an opposite effect on the surface of the ice. They become heated bj- the sun, and melting the ice under them, form Hollows. When the glacier stream overflows the verge of a precipice, the solid icy mass is rent by innumerable fractures, which by exposure to the sun and air give rise to the Ice-XeedJes and I c e - Pu r a m ids. The streams formed by the melting of the ice on the surface of the glacier descend into the crevices and fissures, and, occasionally penetrating the entire mass, unite with the brook beneath the glacier. In the former case they are termed Brunnen, or wells. Fr. Baignoirs: in the latter, XV. WRESTLING MATCHES. XLIII Trichter, or funnels. Fr. Monlins. These openings and clefts are closed in winter, and the mass of ice becomes more consolidated. In spring and summer, iiowever. new rents are continually formed, usually accompanied Nv a loud cracking noise. Tlie Crevasses (Gor. Schriinde) are a constant source of vexation to the glacier-wanderer. When he has succeeded in surmounting the lofty and precipitous moraines, and has threaded his way through a chaos of rocks on the surface of the ice. his progress is tuo often obstructed by some yawning gulf which compels him to retrace his steps, or have re- course to a long circuitous route. When these abysses are concealed by newly-fallen snow, a single incautious step may be attended with the most disastrous consequences. The beds of ancient glaciers may frequently be traced by the singular manner in which they have polished and furrowed the surface of the rocks over which thoy have passed. This phenomenon (Germ. Gletscher- schliff) is occasioned by the friction of pebbles and fragments of quartz, interposed between the glacier and the rock, and is observed only on granite and gneiss. An instance of this kind may be inspected by travellers at the Hundeck (p. 133). from which, in conjunction with numerous other indications of a similar nature, it is inferred that the extent occupied by glaciers at a very remote period w-as far greater than at the present day. This supposition is corroborated by the frequent occurrence of Erratic Blocks of granite in districts whither they can have been conveyed by some external force alone, having been in all probability deposited by ancient glaciers. It is a remarkable fact that boulders of this description are found on the E. slopes of the Jura, near Bienne and Soleure, where the rock-formation consists entirely of limestone. The glacier-domain of Switzerland extends from Jlont Blanc to the Ortler; the entire area tlius occupied is computed at 800 sq. 31. The cantons of the Orisons (225), Bern (155), and the Valais (130) comprise 9;ioths of the Swiss glaciers (5-10). Of these, ^Jards send their waters to the Rhine. The mightiest glacier mass is the Bernina (p. 331); the most extensive glacier, 15 M. in length, is the Aletsch Glacier (p. 141). XV. "Wrestling Matches. ( Schwingfeste.) On stated occasions the youth of a valley, or of several neighbouring valleys, congregate for the purpose of wrestling. The elders and children of the community take part in the scene as spectators. For a victory to be decisive, the vanquished wrestler must be thrown upon his back by his antagonist, and so obstinately are these contests prolonged that injuries of a serious nature not unfrequently result. These are very curious and characteristic spectacles if witnessed where they are not got up for purposes of gain and the diversion of strangers. This is often the case in localities much frequented by travellers, a« Interlaken : but these exhibitions, being mere spec\ilations, are of course devoid of all the originality of the genuine matches, which are extremely interesting and exciting. The following are the fixed dates of some of the most important matches. The 29th June at Schiipfheim, in the Entlebuch (p. 91). The Sunday after the 5th July on the Seealp, in the canton of Appenzell. The Sundav after the 25th Julv (St. James) on the Batersalp. 3 M. from Weissbad (p. 279). The 22nd Julv on the Kigi (p. 58). The 26th July at Sachseln (p. 90). The 26th July on the Engstlenalp, near Meiringen (p. 129). The 1st Sunday in August en the Stadtalp. near Meiringen (p. 124). XLIV XV. WRESTLING MATCHES. The 1st Sunday in August on the Wengernalp (p. 114). The 10th August on the Tannalp, near Meiringen (p. 124). The 2nd Sunday in August at Ennetegg in the Entlebuch (p. 91). The l.Dth August near the Chapel of Kotre-Dame-de-la-Gorge on (h-^ Mont Joli (p. 230). The last Sunday in August at Ennetegg in the Entlebuch. In the month of August, on the patron Saint's day, near the Baths of T'rnasch in the Canton of Appenzell. The 1st Sunday in September at Ennetegg. The 29th September and 1st Sunday in October at St. Joseph near Sehiipfheim (p. 91). Abbreviations used in the Handbook. R. = Room. S. = South. L. = Light. E. = East. B. = Breakfast. W. = West. D. = Dinner. r. = right. S. = Supper. 1. = left. A. = Attendance. hr. = Hour. N. = Iforth. min. = Minute. M. = English mile. ft. (') = Engl. foot. X.B. Everj-thing particularly worthy of note is indicated by an a3teri3k. Distances in the more mountainous districts are given according to the time in which a moderate walker would traverse them. 1. Bale. Hotels. Throe Kinps (Tlan a) on the Rhine, R. 2 fr. and upwards, L. l'-... K. I'jv. D. at o'clock 4, A. 1 fr. ; 'S ch w e i z erho f ; opposite to it. lintel Euler, R. 2, 1$. Ul-j, A. ^j^, omnibus 1 fr., both at the Central Station : Fane o n ; C i g o g n e (PI. b), R. 1% B. Iii4, D. inc. W. 3, A. ^U fr. ; Sauvage (PI. c), .similar prices. — 'Couronne (PI. d). Kopf (Pi. e), lioth on the Rhine; Hotel de la Poste; Schiff, unpretending, well spoken of, R. and A. 2 fr. — In Klein-Basel, on the r. bank of the Rhine. Bear (PI. g), R. lifo, B. 1, A. 'f- fr. : opposite to it the '^^Croix (PI. h); Hotel Schrieder, opposite the station of the Baden railway. The usual dinner-hour at all the hotels is 12. 30. Cafes etc. Caf(Sdes Trois Rois. near the hotel of that name; (^'afe "National, on the r. bank of the Rhine near the bridge; Cafe de Bale near the theatre. Refreshment-rooms at the Central Station and I lie Baden Station. — Kibiger, Barfiisserplatz ; Schuhmacher, opp. to the Central Station; Summer-Casino (PI. 18), concert on Wed. G — 9 p. m. — Thomas garden, near the Central Station. Conveyances. O ni n i b u s from the Station to the town (50 lbs. of luggage free) 'J2 fr., from the Baden to the Central Station 1 fr. Carriage for >|4 hr. 1—2 persons 80 c., 3—4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c, by the hour 2—3 fr., to or from the station 1 — 4 pei-s. Hj^ fr., from one station to the other 1 — 2 pers. Hj-.., 3 — 4 pors. 2 fr., each box 30 c. extra. Railway-Stations. Baden S t a t i o n in Klein-Basel ^\i M. (in a straight direction) from the Rhine Bridge; duly payable on carved woodwork l)rought from Switzerland 10 kreuzer per lb. The Alsace and the Swiss lines both start from the Central Station in Bale, on the S. side of the town, about 1 M. from the Rhine bridge. The waiting-rooms of the former are on the r.. those of the latter on the 1. side of the building. The exterior of the station is adorned with relief- portraits of Xewton , Humboldt. Laplace, and Euler (p. 4). Above the doors in the portico are the arms of the 22 Cantons. Post and Telegraph Offices (PI. 16) in the Freien-Strasse; also at the Central Station. Baths in the Rhine near the Miinster, entrance from the Pfalz (p. 3). Warm baths at M eyer-Ri tier's in the Elisabethen - Strasse ; Sigmund, Leonhardstrasse. Newspapers in the Reading Club (open 10 a. ni. to Oijz p. m.) by the liinster. Strangers must be introduced bA- a member, perhaps the land- 'id of their hotel. English Church Service in the Church of St. Martin (PI. S). Bale, or />V;.se/ (871'). tho principal town of tho half-ranton iiale-Villc (pop. 44.834. 1*2.019 Rom. C'ath.l. is first mentioncfl in the year 374 inidor the name of Basilea, and appears to have been founded by the Koman army when it fell back on the Rhine near tlie old Colonia Auijusta Raurncorurii, founded B. C. "27 by L. Munatius Plancus (^now called Basel-Augst, 5 M. from Rale on the 1. bank of the Rhine). Rale is greatly Indebted for its wealth . which has become proverbial , to its favourable position at the Junction of the frontiers of Germany. France, and Switzerland. R-T.PF.KF.n. Swilzrrland. ')[h Edit ion, [ 2 Route 1. BALK. Mi'mster. Tlie town lies on the 1. bank of tlie Rliiiie, and is connected with Klein-Basel on the r. bank by a wooden bridge , 280 yds. in length, in the middle of which is a triangular obelisk, furnished with a barometer, thermometer, etc. The *Munster (PI. 9), an imposing edifice, the two lofty towers of which are visible from a considerable distance, w^as formerly the Cathedral of the see of Bale (the bishop's residence is now at Soleure). It was built by the Emperor Henry II. in 1010 — 1019, and was restored in 1185, after having been des- troyed by fire. In 1356 the old building was all but levelled by an earthquake , but is now rebuilt in the Gothic style. Of the original structure the N. portal, or St. Gallus gate-way, still exists, and is adorned with statues of the Evangelists, John the Baptist, and other saints; over the church-door is a relief repre- senting the wise and foolish virgins; at the sides in 6 niches are the works of charity, and at the top Christ on the Judgment- seat and the angels at the last day. The W. Front under the towers, with the principal portal and two side-entrances, belongs to the 14th cent. ; on the front are represented the Virgin and Child, and under them the Emp. Henry, the founder and bene- factor of the church, with the Empress Helena; on the two side- entrances are two knights, on the 1. )St. George and the Dragon, and on the r. St. Martin. The towers, which are 218' in height, were not completed till 1500. In the year 1431 the convocation of the great Cotmcil in the Miinster first began ; it consisted of upwards of 500 clergymen . whose ostensible task was a 'refor- mation of the Church in head and members' ; but after having disputed for years without any result, and having been excom- municated by Pope Eugene IV. , the Convocation was at last dissolved in 1448. The Church Is open to the public on Tues- days and Fridays, 2 — 4 p, m. The sacristan lives opposite to the principal entrance (fee 1/2 f^.); in summer he is generally to be found in the church at the above hours. Tlie interior of the Miinster was bereft of its most beautiful ornaments in the great iconoclasm of 1529, but was re-decorated in 1852 — 56 with great skill, and is now one of the finest Protestant churches in existence. The beautiful rood-loft of 1381 now serves to support the organ, a very fine instrument, performances on which may be heard once or twice a week in summer, 6 — 7 p. m. (admission 1 fr.). The pulpit dates from 1424. The aisles and choir contain fine old monuments and tombstones built into the walls ; in the N. aisle is the old episcopal chair ; also reliefs of the 11th cent, (scenes from the lives of the martyrs); the font is of 1465; on the pillar opposite is the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of Rotter- dam (d. 1536), with a long Latin inscription. In the passage round the choir arc the monuments of the Empress Anna (d. 1281), consort of Rudolph of Hapsburg and mother of Albert I., and of her youngest son Charles. The stained-glass windows, representing Moses and David, Peter and Paul, and the four Evangelists, are by artists of Ziirich and St. Gall, and the newest, representing Christ as Judge of the world, is from the stained-glass Institution of Munich. The crypt, which lielongs to the original edifice, is now occupied by the stoves employed in heating the church. A stair leads fi-om the choir to the Council Hall., in which. Museum. RALK. 1. Route. 3 one of the five principal committees used to asseml)lo. It is exactly in the state in which it was left 400 years a.<, St. John the Baptist. — B. Old German Saloon: 85. Cranarfi, St. Ursula. — C. Bale Saloon: 133. Battle of St. Jacob, by Hieron. Hess; 141. Entrance into Bale of the confederate ambassadors in 1501 to take the oaths of allegiance to the Confederation, Landerer; '148. Schreckhorn and Wetter- horn, Calame; 139. Horse-piece, Kollev. — D. Fourth Saloon: 173. Lute-player, '174. Interior of a Dutch cottage, both by Tenters; 199. Sleep the Type of Death, by Caracci; 209. aiacbeth and tlie Witches, by Koch. — Room E. Birniann's Collection: 267. The Nativity, by An. Caracci; ^^270. Madonna and Child, ascribed to Gherardesca da Siena; "281. Cardinal Fleury, by Phil, de Champaigne ; 292. The Adoration, by Mabuse; 289. Por- trait, ascribed to Rembrandt; 291. The Smoker by Tenicrs; 260.— 273. Pictures by Peter Birmann ; 274—279. Pictures by Sam'. Jiirmann (d. 18i7). — The Sixth Room, 1. of the Holbein Saloon, contains unnumbered pictures by Steinle, Schnorr^ Hess, Schraudolph., Overbeck, etc. — The Cabinet of An- tiquities contains Honian and Greek relics, statuettes, ancient ecclesia.-'ti- 1* 4 Route 1. BALE. Toxcn Hall. cal vessels, idols, Swiss coins. Etruscan vases. Mosaics, &c. — The JFexica n Cabinet contains a number of Mexican curiosities and other objects of interest, among which are two mummies. The University Library in the same building (open from 2 to 4) contains upwards of 85,000 volumes and' 4000 MSS.; among the latter are the transactions of the church council, writings of Luther, Melanchthon, etc. The University (130 students), founded in 1459 by Pius IL , is celebrated as the school of the great mathematicians Bernouilli , Merian, and Euler. The hall contains upwards of 100 portraits of the learned men of Bale, of the cosmographer Sebastian Milnster (d. 1552), the reformers Oecolampadius and Grynaeus, etc. The Town Hall (PI. 17) in the Market-place was erected in 1508 in the so-called Burgundian style, and renewed in 1826. The facade is adorned with the town -arms (a black episcopal staff resting on a fisherman's grappling-iron). The Arsenal (PI. 23), the receptacle of the arms for the Bale contingent of troops, contains little worthy of note except the shirt of mail worn by Charles the Bold. The handsome Spahlen-Thor (St. Paul), erected about the year 1400, deserves inspection ; the other gates, bastions, and ramparts have been converted into public walks. Among other Mediaeval Relics may be mentioned the Fish- market- Fountain, erected in the 14th cent.; the Spahlen-Fountain with a bagpiper from a design by Holbein ; the Roman archway in the old St. Albans Monastery (PI. 5). — The Barfiisser-Church (PI. 4), dating from the beginning of the 13th cent., with its very lofty choir, now serves as a store-house. — The Church of St. Martin (PI. 8) was restored in 1851 and converted into a -Protestant place of worship. — The new Gothic EUsabethenkirche (PI. 6) was erected at the expense of a wealthy citizen of Bale; it contains some fine painted glass, executed at Munich. — The newly restored (Pom. Cath.) Church of St. Clara (PI. 25) in Klein-Basel contains a fine organ. The Mission - House (PL 12) educates missionaries for the promul- gation of Christianity. An excellent fi y a diligence runs daily in 43J4 hrs., passing by llic foot of .\foti( 'l\-nil>l>-. Porrentruy. Cer. I'ni'ntnit (Ours), 6 Route 2. MUNSTERTHAL. was once a residence of tlie Bishops of Bale. E>:cuisions S. to the wiM and romantic valley of the Doiibs (R. 44), N.E. to the castles of Morimonl (Ger. Miirsperg) and Fereite (Ger. I'/rt), with a beautiful view over the plains of Alsace and the Vosges, thence by Burg and Lands^kron to Bale. At Coarrendim (1447'), Ger. Rennendorf {Qcxi), a village with considerable iron-works, the so-called *Munsterthal is reached, a grand and romantic defile traversed by the Birs. The huge cleft through which the stream passes testifies to the mighty convulsion which has forced the horizontal strata to assume their present almost perpendicular position, resembling gigantic walls on either side of the road. In the middle of this defile and at the most interesting spot on the whole route, arc situated the glass-manufactories and forges of Roche. From M ii n s t e r to the W e i s s e n s t c i n. At the mouth of the gorge, near the ■ Pflug inn, a good road, bounded on the S. by the rugged de- clivities of Mt. Graiteru, and on the N. by the wooded heights of Le Cornet., ascends to the 1. to (2i|4 M.) Gravfelden (Fr. Grandval) and (3(4 M.) Crc- niine (Kreuz), passing the clock-manufactory of M. Ferret; following the course of the Rmisse, which here forms some picturesque cascades, it next reaches t2'j4 M.) St. Joseph am Gdnsbvunnen (Post). This place is situated at the N. base of the Weissenstein., whose summit can easily be attained in 2 hrs ; the road is good , the latter part through a forest. Carriages may be had from Gansbrunnen (15 fr.) to the Weissenstein, 'as well as to Miinster; from Miinstcr to the Weissenstein 20 to 25 fr. Diligence between Miinster and Olten by Gansbrunnen daily in 61J4 hrs. 7^8 ^I- Moutier, Ger. Miinster (1690'J (Krone; Hirsch) , an ancient and handsome village , situated in a fertile dale , which 3/4 M. farther again contracts. The road now traverses a wild pine -clad gorge threaded by the Birs. It again emerges at the village of Court (2172') (Ours), and l'/2 M. farther reaches Sonvilliers. Before reaching Bivilard , the next village , a rugged path leads (in 3 hrs.) to Reuchenetie (see above) over the Montoz (4371'). The intricacy of the route renders a guide desirable. The view is similar to that from the Weissenstein. The road next traverses pasture-land and reaches 71/8 M. Malleray (*Lion d'Or, R. and L. 21/2 fr., B. IV2 fr.). Near Tavannes, Ger. Dachsfelden (2546') (*Krone), the road again ascends; in 10 minutes it leads to Pierre Pertuis (petra pertusa) (2582'), a natural opening in the rock, 40 feet high, and more than once fortified in time of war. It bears a restored Roman inscription on the N. side, which cannot be earlier tlian 161 A. D. This gate, the highest point between Tavannes and Sonceboz. marked the limit of the Helvetian province, and, at a later date, of the bishoprics of Avenches, Lausanne, and Bale. The Birs has its source at the foot of this mountain. 6% M. Sonceboz (2198') (*Krone), a village in the valley of Erguei or St. Jmier. Diligence (3 times daily in 4 lirs.) to La-Chaux-de-Fonds , through this charming valley enlivened by the signs of industry (watch-manufactories) and numerous flocks. The road to Bienne follows the course of the Sclieuss (Suze), passing the villages Lci IJutte ajid Reucheneite (Forelle) (1942'). lUKNNK. 'J. RouU. i Tlic (Ad road passes the ruins of the Clidttau liond-Cliald. From the BIJzinger Hijhe, the last eminence of tlic Jura, a '■''ma^inilicent view is disclosed of the extensive district watered by the Aare, Emmc, and the Zihl, forming an amphitheatre of upwards of 180 miles. Beyond Reuchcnette the new road crosses to the r. bank of the 8uze, thus missing the above-mentioned prospect, but amply compensating the traveller by the view it affords of the valley, as well as by its interesting construction (tunnels and rocky galleries). U-'^/y M. Bienne, German Biel tHotci du Jura; Croix, U. fijv, B. 1, L. •{.;, A. ^li, Omnibus ij-^ fr. ; Couronnc; IJrcwcry Zum See/els; baths in the Scheuss, l'(4 M. below thc^ town), an ancient town, free and independent from 1250 to 1798, is situated near the lake of the same name and at the S. base of the Jura, the lower slopes of which are planted with the vine. Pop. 8113 (81)1 Kom. Cath.). Colonel Schwab willingly admits visitors to his interesting Collection of Antiquities (found in the ancient Swiss lake-villages). The new church is Rom. Catholic. From Bienne to Neuchatel see pp. 9, 10. From Bienne to Bern the direct railway crosses the Zihl (Thiele) near stat. Brilyg , and the Aare by an iron bridge near stat. Bussivyl. On the Aare, above stat. Lyss ^ is situated Aarhenj with an ancient castle. Stat. Lubery, Schilpfen, and Zollikofen, the latter a station on the Swiss Central ( Bale-Herzogenbuchsee-Bern) line. Hence to Bern see p. 13. 3. From Bale to Geneva by Neuchatel. 162 M. Swiss Central and Western Railway. To Geneva by express in 9, by ordinary trains in 11 hrs. Fares: 27 fr. GO c, 19 fr. 65 c, 14 fr. 30 c. The equally short route by Bern and Lausanne (K. 41) is far preferable. At Olteii (p. S) passengers generally change carriages and are detained '(i hr. (Steamboats on the lakes of Neuchatel and Geneva see RK- 46, 50.) On leaving the station, a view is obtained to the 1. of the vine-clad hills of Grenzach beyond the Rhine. The line crosses the Birs (view of the valley) and skirts the picturesque and wooded slopes of the Jura. Stat. Muttenz; beyond stat. Pratteln, the ruins of the castle of Schduenburg are seen on a rocky eminence to the r. On the Rhine, at some distance 1. of the line, lies Basel- Augst (p. 18); beyond it rise the lofty mountains of the Black Forest. Here the line leaves the valley of the Rhine, and enters that of the Ergolz in the Jura. Beautiful points of view as far as Olton. Nieder-Schonthid is the stat. for Frenkendorf, a charming village on a hill to the r., much frequented on account of its salubrious air. As Liesthal is approached, the large Cantonal Hospital i6 seen to the 1. Liesthal (1024') l^'Falke, SchlllsselJ on the Ergolz, with 3873 8 Route 3. OLTEN. From Hale inhab. (495 Rom. Cath.J, i:i the seat ol' the government of the half-canton Bale-Campagne. In the oouncil-hall is exliibited the <-up of Charles the Bold, found in his tent after the battle of Nancy. Before reaching Sissacli (1233') (Lowe), a small town of some importance, the train passes (r.J the small castle of Eben- rain and its park. Fine view from the Sissacher FLuh (2303'), 3 M. to the E. of the town. (From Sissach to Aarau by the Schafmatt see p. 15.) After passing stat. Sommerau and Laufelfingen (12G3'j, the train enters the great tunnel of Hauenstein, 8885' long, where on May 28th, 1857. fifty-two workmen were buried by a fall ol' earth, and eleven more perished in their efforts to rescue them. As the train emerges from the tunnel, the ruins of the castle of Neu-Wartburg are perceived. Farther on, to the r. of the latter, a beautiful glimpse of the Bernese Alps is obtained, gradually be- coming visible from the "NV'etterhorn to the Doldenhorn. The line now descends by a long curve to the Aare, which it crosses at a considerable distance below Olten, and then ascends to the station on the r. bank. At the summit of the Hauenstein. ascended in li'^ hi. from stat. Olten and Laufelfingen, is situated the Frohburg (2772'), a good inn, command- ing a beautiful panorama of the Alps , from the Sentis to Mont Blanc ^ in the foreground is the Wartbiivy ^ and the valley which extends lo Lu- cerne, traversed by the railroad; to the r. is Pilatus, to the 1. the Kigi. 'la M. distant are the ruins of a castle destroyed by an earthquake. | — The traveller coming from the X., and visiting Switzerland for the first time, would do well to leave the train at Laufelfingen, and proceed on foot to Olten over the Frohburg : in fine weatlier the view of the Alpine chain, wliich suddenly becomes visible from the summit of the mtmntain, is strikingly beautiful. — About 2 hrs. farther W., on the summit of the pass of the Obere Hauenstein , is situated the favourite Alpine sanitary establishment Langenbvuck (good road thence to Liesthal). Olten (1325') (Hotel de la Gare, at the station, E. 2 fr. ; ==Halb- mond; ''Rail way -rest au rant. At Olten passengers to or from Lu- cerne and Herzogenbuchsee-Bern change carriages: those from Bale to Ziirich keep their seats. Detention of ij^ — ij^ hr. On leaving the waiting- rooms the trains for Bale and Ziirich are to the left, those to Lucerne and Bern to the right), second town of the canton of Soleure (2998 inhab., 733 Prot.), prettily situated on the Aare. The Parish Church possesses an 'Ascension' by Disteli, and the Capuchin Church a Madonna by Deschxoanden. Extensive rail- way work-shops and considerable shoe-manufactories are situated here. Railway by Aarau to Zurich see R. 7. To the S. of Olten, visible to the 1. of the line, rises the Wartburg ('■JiestaKrant) , a small chateau recently restored, situated on an isolated peak several hundred feet above the Aare. *View similar to that from the Frohburg, and the ascent likewise recommended. From stat. Olten to the top 3|4 hr. ; same distance from Aarburg. On the height to the 1. is the cSiStle of Neu-Wartburg, a tine point of view. The train next passes through a short tunnel under the rook of the castle of Aarhura, and emerges at the station of to (iene Aarburg (loKi') (Udr; Krone) ^ a small but wt-althy town, ulniust entirely rebuilt since the lire of 1840. The pietnresque old f-astle, formerly a fortress, built in 1660, and provided with bomb-proof casemates hewn in the rock, was the residence of the governors aiul a state-prison till 1798; it is now a house of correction and arsenal. To the 8.E. the Lucerne line diverires. Stations Medenryl, MurgenthuL, Koyywyl, Lanyenthai {'''Lowe), a tlirivinjr villajre with extensive traftic in wood, and Biitzhery. At Herzogenbuclisee (Hotel du Soleil; restaurant at the back of the station), where the line diverges to Bern (p. 13), a change of carriages generally takes place. }5eyond Sublyen the line crosses the Urosse Eimne not far from its confluence with the Aare. Above .Soleure, to the r. , rises the inn on the Weissenstein (p. 11); to the 1.. a panorama of the Bernese Alps. Before entering the station the Aare is crossed. Soleure, see p. 10. The train next passes stat. Seizuch, G'renc/ien (Lowe ; Traube). a village where watches are manufactured, and Pieterlen. Bienne see p. 7. Near the handsome avenues to the S.K. of this town, the train reaches the Lake of Bienne (U'24'). lOi/o M. long, '2V4 M. wide, greatest depth 200', ■]' lower than the lake of Neuchatel. with which it is connected by the Zihl. This river again emerges from the lake of Bienne at Aidau, a village situated on the E. bank. The train skirts the X.W. bank of the lake; the delight- ful view thus afforded the traveller is enhanced in clear weather by the snowy summits of the Alps, which, as the train proceeds towards Neuchatel. become visible from the mountains of Unter- walden to Mont Blanc. Beyond stat. 2'u?ann, Fr. Doiumne (Bar), is a picturesque waterfall; this is the best point for visiting the Isle of St. Peter (1568'), situated a little more to the S., opposite Liyerz an. I Chuvanne (Kreuz), two villages, at which boats may be pro- cured for the purpose. The islaiul, which is '^1^ M. from the N.W. and l^/o M. from the >S.AV. bank, rises perpendicularly from the lake on the N. and "NV. sides. These sides are shaded by handsome and venerable oaks, and present a most picturesque aspect. The S. side, which is a gradual slope, is covered with vineyards and orchards. On the E. side, near the bank, is seen the small liouse (inn) wliich was occupied by Rousseau for two months in 1765, after his compulsory departure from Motiers- Travers(p. 171). He was prohibited by the government of Bern from longer enjoying his new retreat. The room of the great philosopher is preserved in the same state as at the time of his stay on the island, and the walls are as usual inscribed with tlie names nf tluuisaiids of visitors. It i- to the somewhat exaggerated 10 Route 4. SOLEURE. description of liousscau that the Isle of St. Peter and the Lake of Biennc owe their reputation. Neuveville (1784'), the next station (Faucon, or Paste j *Cuu- ronne at the S. end, with a fine view of the lake and Alps), is a smiling little town, the first place where French is spoken. To the 8. of the town, on a lieight, are seen the ruins of Schloss- bery, in the neighbourhood of which is a picturesque cascade of the Beonbach. Diligence to Freiburg by Ins, see p. 1G3. To the r. of Xeuveville rises the Chas'seral (5282') in three terraces, and is studded on the S. side by numerous villages and verdant meadows. The view from the summit (ascent 31)2 hrs.), like that from the Weissen- stein (p. 11), embraces a lai-ge part of Eastern Switzerland, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and the Alps. About ^\-> hr. from the summit arc seve- ral chalets, where accommodation may be had for the night if necessary. The return may be made by Bienne, to which there is a road (IS'I,; W.). The view is seen to the best advantage when the ascent is made on the N. side from Courtdary (2382'), or from St. Imier in the valley of that name (p. 6). — Cerlier, or Erlach (Ours), is situated opposite Neuveville at the foot of one of the sandstone spurs of the Jolimont, a ridge of which beneath the lake connects the mainland with the island of St. Peter. Near stat. Landeron the railway quits the Lake of Bienne ; the little town lies to the 1. Stat. Cressier, with its church on the summit of a rock; then Cornaux. On emerging from a tunnel, St. Blaise is reached, where the train skirts the base of the mountain, and affords a view of the entire Lake of Neuchatel, the N. extremity of which is here reached, exactly opposite to the distant Mont Blanc. The train runs at a great height above the lake (to the 1. below is the road), and reaches the station of Neuch&tel, on the N.E. side of the town, see p. 166. Hence to Geneva, see R. 46. 4. Soleure and the Weissenstein. Hotels. Couronnc, R. 2, B. 1, D. 3, A. 1,2 fr. ; Cert; Tour^ Bargezi, near the station, also a restaurant. Telegraph Office at the post-office. Carriages to the Weissenstein, sec p. 12. Soleure or Solothurn (1444'), a dull town with 7054 iiihab. (1291 Prot.), situated on the Aare, is the capital of the canton of Soleure and the residence of the Bishop of Bale. It was in- corporated in the Confederation in 1481 ; with Treves it claims to be the most ancient town on this side of the Alps ("in Celtis nihil est Solodoro antiquius, unis exceptis Treviris^ quaruni ego dicta soror', see p. 11). It is at least certain that the Salodurum of the Romans was a most flourishing settlement. The ramparts, planted with trees, afford an agreeable promenade. The Church of St. Ours (St. Ursusmi'msterJ, cathedral of the Bishopric of Bale, was built in 1762 — 73 by the architect Pisconi of Ascona, replacing an older edifice of 1050. A flight of 33 steps leads to the fa(;ade between two fountains, one of which is adorned with a statue of Moses striking the rock, the other with a figure SOLKLKK. 4. Route. 11 of Gideon wringing tlu; dew Ironi the sheepskin. Of the ten large altar-pieces, executed by painters of tlic second half of the last century, none merit inspection. The *Arsenal, in the neighbourhood of the cathedral, con- tains ancient armour, halberds, pikes, and standards, taken in the battles of the Confederates with Austria, burgundy, &c. On the second story, when the door is opened, an automaton placed as a sentinel presents arms and turns his head. In the upper story, a very curious group represents the reconciliation of the Con- federates effected at the Diet of Stans (p. 90) by Nicholas von der Fliie, after a design of iJisteli (d. 1844). The most ancient building in JSoleure is tlie Clock Tower, although little reliance can be placed on the Inscription (p. 10) whidi carries it back to tlic 4th cent. B. C. The figures and mechanism of tlie clock are similar to tliose at Bern (p. 94j. Under the portico of the HuteL de Ville, as well as in the Public Library arc some Roman antiquities. The Museum of Natural History, in the orphan-house near the bridge, is rich in minerals and fossils. In the Bieler Strasse, Nr. 5, near the post-office, the illustrious Polish exile Koscziusko (d. 1811) passed the last years of his life. His heart was interred at Zuchwyi, 'Y4 M. 8.E. of Soleure, on the r. bark of the Aare. A simple monument, shaded by weeping willows, bears this inscription: ^Viscera Thaddaei Koscziusko'. His remains rest near those of Sobieski and Poniatowski in the Cathedral of Cracow. At Soleure the 'Postheiri', or Swiss Charivari, is published. The *Weissenstein (4209'), 3 hrs. to the N. of Soleure, is one of the most frequented mountains in Switzerland, and well merits its repute. On the summit an *HoteI with 'Dc- pendance' (K. ly.,^ B- !> ''^- 2, pension 4 fr.) is much frequen- ted , and also employed as a whey-cure establisliment. On Sa- turdays, in fine weather, the hotel is generally crowded. The prospect is less pictiiresciiie tlian that from the Uii-i, though the horizon is more extended ; hut from no spot can a hetter view he oh- tained of the hm>: chain of the higher Alps fnmi the Tyrol to Mont lUanc. Tt» the N E. are distinciuished the Sentis, the Oliirnisoh, with the Hiiii in the forepronnd, the Tddi between the Rigi and Pilatus, the lofty summit of Titlis, and the Snstenhorn ; then, beyond Soleure, the eye reaches to the Wetterhorn and Schreckhorn, the Finsteraarhorn, the Eiger, the JItinch, the Jungfrau, tlie Hliimlisalp, the Doldcnhoin, tlie Altels, Jlonte Rosa, and still farther S. W. Jlont Hlanc. To the W. glitter the lakes of Hienne, Morat, and Neuchatel ; the Aare winds to the S. through the fertile plains like a silver thread, and the Grosse Emme flows into it at the foot of the mountain. The ''Hothe (4587'), V2 l»r. to the E. of the hotel, com- mands a still more extensive view towards the N. and E., which are hidden from the Weissenstein, and affords a good survey of the picturesque motmtains and valleys of the Jura. A stoiu> liut and a trigonometrical signal occupy the summit. 12 Itoute 4. WEISSENSTEIN. To tlie W. the view is roncealed by the '■■Hasenmatt (4754'). This last point. Vi ^r. from the hotel, presents an uninter- rupted panorama. Jt is unnecessary to return by the Weissen- stein; leaving the summit on the N. side, the pedestrian may descend its W. and 8. slopes, pass by Lommiswyl, and regain Soleure, or the less distant station of Selzach (p. 9). Miinster or Court in the Munsterthal (p. 6) may be reached in 2 hrs. from the Hasenmatt. Path from the W eiss en s t ein to the Munsterthal, see p. 6. Routes from Soleure to the Weissens t e i n. — ist. Carriage- road, iiassing by La/Kjendorf and Oberdorf (two-horse carriage for 3 pers. 20 fr., for 4 pers. 25 fr., driver's fee not included: if the carriage remains during the night on the top, 5 fr. more: an omnibus generally runs daily between Soleure and the Weissenstein, leaving the Couronne at 5 p. m.). 2nd. Foot-pat}) (guide or porter for luggage 5 fr., 3 fr. more if required to pass the night on the summit, which is however unnecessary, as por- ters may always be procured there), passing near the Einsiedelei (hermitagej, by the Utiegenlos and Resi. By both these ways the Weissenstein may easily be reached in 3 hrs. The foot-path is, however, much to be pre- ferred: it passes by the cathedral of St. Ours, through the imposing Bale gate, inclines to the 1. in the direction of the Villa of M. Cartier, where it turns to the r., then to the 1. through the avenue, at the extremity of which the r. must be again taken towards the church of St. Nicholas, before reaching which, near ' Bargezi's Bretcery, the 'St. Verenathal is en- tered to the 1. (1 M. from Soleure), a narrow, cool and shady ravine, Jj'j M. in length. The path to the 1., at the commencement of the gorge, leads to the Wengistein (see belowj. In the quarries of Portland limestone, at the entrance of the valley, valuable fossils are frequently found. The blocks of granite which are seen in the vicinity on the slopes of the moun- tain, have been, according to geologists, brought here by the agency of ancient Alpine glaciers which extended as far as the Jura. This gorge is now converted into a promenade. At the y. extremity of the ravine is the 'Hermitage of St. Verena, to the r. the dwelling of the hermit : to the 1. the chapel, which is reached hy a broad staircase : it is hewn in the rock, and contains a representation of the holy sepulchre with life-size ligures. The traveller may now return by the chapel of Ste. Croix, passing near some extensive marble quarries ; after traversing the forest, the Wengistein is reached, the view from which is similar to that from the Weissenstein, though on a smaller scale. A huge granite boulder bears a Latin inscription recording two memorable events in the history of Soleure. From the hermitage to the base of the Jura, the footpath is uninter- esting. For the remainder of the way the following directions will suffice. Leaving the hermitage, the pedestrian crosses a meadow in the direc- tion of the inn on the Weissenstein which lies before him; near some cottages the high road is crossed, and the path ascends the hill, crossing a brook and leading to another group of cottages. Passing between the latter, the traveller leaves the stone cross to the r., and proceeds towards the nearest pine-wood, on the borders of which he crosses a brook, and (not to the r.) reaches a sign-post. A little higher in the wood a second post is passed, and soon after, the base of a rugged precipice is gained (1 hr. from the hermitage). The path is precipitous, but well-shaded. An ascent of 3|4 hr. brings the traveller to a sharp projection of the rock, after which he descends to the 1., reaching the Xesstlbodeu-Alj) in lOmiu., where the footpath rejoins the vo&A. After an easy ascent of i|-.> hr. more, the summit of the Weissenstein is attained. 13 5. From Bale to Bern by Herzogenbuchsee. 67 M. Central Kailwav. lii o', ■.'—•') l"'^- I'"aiTs II t"r. 10. 7 IV. S(.>, o fr. 60 0. Comp. Introd. X.' From Bale to Herzoyenbuclisee see pp. 7 to 9. Near stat. Kiedwyl the railway enters grassy valleys, enclosed by wooded slopes. Then stat. Wyniyen. On issuing from a long tunnel (transit 1 min.) the line crosses the (rrosse Kmme and reaches the busy town of Burgdorf (lOlG'J, French Berthoud (*HoteL (rugyisbery, near the station; Stadthaus; Bar), picturesquely situated on an eminence. The houses arc for the most part substantially built, and have arcades as at Bern; the public edifices, the hospital, the schools, the Orphan Asylum, and the public walks testify to the opulence and good taste of the inha- bitants. In the castle of Burgdorf, Pestalozzi established his celebrated educational institution in 1798, which in 1804 was transferred to Munnge (p. 97), and of the bridge of Tiefenau over the Aare, constructed in 1851. The line then ascends for a few minutes until it reaches the Wylerfeld (drilling ground), whence, to the 1., a magnificent *view of the entire chain of the Bernese Alps is enjoyed; farther on, to the r., is a new suburb inhabited by workmen , after passing which the Aare is crossed and the station of Bern reached. The ^Bridge is of a remarkable and ingenious construction, and furnished with two roads, thc^ upper tor railway, the lower for ordinary traffic. Bern see p. 9'2. 6. From Bale to Lucerne. o9'J2 M. Central Kailwav. In S'i-..— 41(2 hrs. Fares 9 fr. 8;J. 6 fr. 95 c, 5 fr. Tlie trains corresiiond with steamboats from Lucerne to Wag:- gis, Fluelen, etc. (see pp. 54 and 66). From Bale to Aarbury see pp. 7, 8. Then stat. Zofingen ('''RlissU; Oclts), a busy little town. Besides a collection of coins, the library contains autograph letters of Swiss reformers, and drawings by members of the Swiss society of artists, founded 14 Route 7. SEMPACH. In the year 1800, which formerly met annually at this town, and on these occasions contributed to embellish the album of the library. The Zofingen Union of Swiss students celebrates the anniversary of its foundation here, to which the members resort in great numbers from the Swiss universities. On the branches of the fine old lime-trees near the Schiitzenhaus two ball-rooms have been constructed. Beyond the town (1/4 M.) is an ancient Roman Bath with a few Roman relics. The line next passes through the broad Wiggernthal, with its rich meadows. On an eminence near stat. Reiden stands an ancient lodge of the knights of Malta, now a parsonage-house. Between the stations of Nebikon and Wauwyl a view is ob- tained to the r. of the Bernese snow-mountains; in the centre the Jungfrau , to the 1. the Monch and Eiger, to the r. the Altels. Beyond stat. Wauwyl, to the r., lies the little Mauensee with its island and small castle. Sursee (Sonne; Hir^ch), an old town, over the gates of which the double eagle of the house of Hapsburg is still en- throned. The Town Hall reminds one of the Burgundian style of architecture. Near stat. Nottwyl the line approaches the Lake of Sempach (1663 ft.), 6 M. long, and 2'/2 M. broad, and abound- ing in fish ; it is , however , more remarkable for its historical associations than the beauty of its scenery. At the S. extremity of the lake, on an eminence to the r., stands the castle of Wartensee, with its angular gables and red tower. At the S.E. extremity of the lake, lies the small town of Sempach (Kreuz; AdlerJ, near which Duke Leopold of Austria was signally defeated, July 8th, 1386, by the Swiss Confederates, owing to the noble self- sacrifice of Arnold von Winkelried. Thousands of his knights and adherents were slain. A Chapel (2064'), IIJ2 M. from Sempach, stands upon the spot where Leopold, nephew of the Duke Leopold who had been conquered by the Swiss 71 years before at Morgarten (p. 301), perished. The line intersects plantations of firs. A view is obtained of the precipitous cliffs and peaks of Pilatus ; to the 1. the long ridge of the Rigi. Then stat. Rothenburg. After passing stat. Emmenbrucke the line skirts the bank of the Reuss, whose eme- rald waters emerge from the lake of Lucerne, passes through a tunnel under the rock of Gibraltar (p. 50) , and reaches by a long curve the Lucerne station , on the 1. bank of the lake. Lucerne see p. 49. Steamboats to Waggis and Fliielen see p. 66. 7. From Bale to Zurich by Olten. G4 M. Central and North Eastern Railways. In 3'|-j— 4'|-.. hrs. Fares 10 fr. To, 7 fr. 55, 5 fr. 40 c. Railway from Bale to Ziirich by Waldshut and Turgi, see p. 17. From Bale to Olten see pp. 7, 8. On leaving Olten the line runs by the side of the Aare as far as its confluence with the AAKAU. 7 Route. 15 Limmat near Bnigg, and commands many pleasing prospects. To the 1. the wooded chain of the Jura remains in view. Stat. Danikon. Opposite stat. Srhonemcerth stands the oastle of GlJsgen with its ruined tower, whicli until 1801 was the seat of the authorities of Soleure. The line passes under the town of Aarau by a tunnel. Aarau (1200') (*Ochs, R. l'/.,, R. 1, D. 21/2 fr. ; *Storch), a manufacturing town, capital of the Canton of Aargau, with 5449 inhab. (904 Uom. Cath.J, is situated on the Aare (which is crossed by a suspension bridge, constructed in 1850), at the foot of the Jura mountains, here partially covered with vines. New Tbum Hall and Barracks. The historian Heinrich Zschokke (b. at Mag- deburg 1771 , d. 1848) formerly resided here. The cutlery manufactured at Aarau is highly esteemed. From Sissach to Aarau by the Schafmatt, 10 M. By diligence to Oltingen in l^lx hr., by {Uj-z M.) Gelterkinden (1371') ('Rossli), a manu- facturing village ; thence through a picturesque vallev to the Hanggiessen waterfall; (I'l-j M.) Teclnati (1440'); to (li(.^ M.) WensUngen (18(K)') a steep ascent; {\.^^^ 31.) Oltingen (Ochs). The path which ascends the (l^-j M.) Schafmatt (2516') diverges close to the 'Ochs\ and cannot be mistaken, being provided with numerous direction-posts. The summit commands an extensive panorama of the Jura mountains and the Alps, as far as the deep valley of Rohr. Here turning to the 1. the upper part of a meadow is reached, at the foot of which (l'|2 M. from the summit) lies a chalet and whey-cure establishment. The spectator here has a prospect of the lake of Lucerne with its environs, the Rigi, Pilatus, etc. before him, bounded on either side by the mountains between which he stands. From the chalet to Aarau in 1 hr. by Oher- and Nieder-Erlinshach. To the N. of Aarau rises the Wa^serfluh (2851'), and to the N.E. the GisUfluh (2539'), over which a footpath leads from Aarau to the Baths of Schinznach, commanding a pleasing view of the lakes of Hallwyl and Baldeck. On the 1. as the train proceeds, beyond the Aare, at the foot of the Gislifluh, lies Biberstein, with an old castle , formerly a lodge of the knights of St. John. Next stat. liupperschwyl, where the line again approaches the Aare. To the r. is Schloss Lenzhurg. Stat. W'ddeyg, with a castle of the same name pictu- resquely situated on the slope of the Wiilpelsberg, possesses a mineral spring, the water of which is used for exportation only. This is the station nearest to the hydropathic estab. of Bresten- berg, situated 71/2 M. to the S. on the lake of Hallwyl (proprie- tor Dr. Erismann, pension 5 fr.). On an eminence on the opposite bank of the Aare stands the castle of WiUienstein. Stat. Schinznach lies halfway between the village of ScJiinznach (124G'), on the 1. bank of the Aare, and the Baths of Schinznach, close to which the line passes (*Hotel with 450 beds and 200 baths; table d'hote at 1; omnibus to and from the station, I72 M. distant; physicians Dr. Hemmann and Dr. Amsler). These baths, also called the Baths of Hapsburg , are highly impregnated with sulphur, and are much resorted to by the French. 16 Route 7. BADEX. From Bale Tlic l.aths lie ;it Uu" (n,>l ,,f the Wiilpclsberr/ (1830'), on the summit cf which (20 mill, walk) slanrt the ruins of the castle of "Habsburg, the cradle of the imperial family of Austria, erected by Count Radbod von Alten- burji about the year 1020. Only the lofty wails of the tower. 8' in thick- ness, now remain. The adjoining house is occupied by the custodian. The view embraces the entire domain of the ancient counts of Hapsburg, and the valleys of the Aare, the Reuss, and the Limmat, bounded on the S. by the snow-clad Alps. Brugg (ii'28'). or Brack (''"Rossli ; ^Rothes Haus), a small town. I'ormerly tlie seat of Kudolph of Hapsburg. A pleasina view of the antiquated town may be obtained from the bridge which spans the Aare, here only 70' wide. The 'Black Tower" ( Sclnvarze Thurm) dates from the later Roman Empire, and was restored in the early part of the loth cent. At a short distance N.E. of the town, three of the chief rivers of Switzerland, the Aarc\ the Reuss, and the Limmat, unite their streams, and fall into the Rhine at Koblenz (p. 19). 9 M. to the N. The ancient Abbey of Konigsfelden [^/^ :\r. to the 8.E. of Brugg), formerly a convent of Minorites, was founded in 1310 by the Empress Elizabeth and her daughter. Queen Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where Albert of Austria, husband of the former, had been murdered two years before (1308) by John of Swabia and his accomplices. The abbey was secularised in 15Q8; the building was con- verted into a hospital, and afterwards a lunatic asylum. A por- tion of the church now serves as a magazine, but divine service is still celebrated in the choir. The *stained-glass window-, opposite the door, dating from the 14th cent., represent V.u- nuptials of Agnes, the foundress of the abbey, with the king of Hungary, and the ceremony of her taking the veil. The numerous portraits of knights who fell at Sempach (p. 14). are of the last century. Duke Leopold himself with 60 of these warriors is hero interred. The doorkeeper, who shows the church (fee i/o fr.). offers Roman coins and Anticaglias for sale. On the tongue of land fonned by the Reuss and the Aare stood in ancient times the considerable Helvetian town of Vindonissa, where during the early centuries of the Christian era a Roman legion and th-- RhfPtian cohorts were posted, as is proved by inscriptions still e.vtant. The position of the amphitheatre is easily recognisable: the well of the convent of Konigsfelden is fed to this day' by a subterranean Roman con duit. The town was destroyed in the 5th cent., and no trace now remain^ of its extensive edifices. The name still survives in that of the village of Wiiidisr/i, 1,'.., M. to the E. of Brugg. Vindonissa was afterwards the- seat of a bishop, which was however transferred to Constance in i(>39. The line crosses the Reuss at its confluence with the Aare and reaches stat. Turgi, the junction where the Baden line to Waldshut diverges (see p. 19). The Ziirich line approaches the Limmat and remains on its 1. bank. The precipitous banks of the river are clad with vines. Baden (r2o3') (Balance; Lion; Ours, R. 172- B. 1. D. '2i/2' A. 1/2 fJ'- Hotel Balinhof) was much resorted to by the Romans to Zurich. DIKTIKUN. -V. Route. 17 ill early times tor the sake of its mineral springs. Its ancient n^me was Aquae. In the time of Nero, according to Tacitus (Hist. I. 67), it had all the appearance of a town (Hn modum inunicipii exstructus locus ^ amoeno salubrium aquarum usu fre- quens'). In the middle ages Baden was a fortress, and frequently the residence of the princes of Hapsburg, Albert having resided here (1308) before his assassination. The extensive ruins of the fortress Stein zu Baden (1506'), destroyed in 1712, rise above the town; the grounds command a tine view. The hot springs (,98"— I26o Fahr.) (1151'), are situated in a valley near the railway station, 3|^ M. to the X. of the town. The '■Small Baths^ (Ennetbdder), on the r. bank of the Limmat are chiefly frequented hy the inhabitants of the neighbourhood; the 'Great Baths' (Ilotels : Stadthof, of the first class ; Schiff, Liinmathof, Scliweizer Hof^ Verenaho/, "Freihof, etc.), on the r. bank, are patronised by the more fashionable world. The Verena Bath is the principal public establishment. The bridge aflord.s the best view of the banks of the river. Baden is annually visited by 15,000 patients and travellers. The line now passes through a short tunnel under the Stein 5<« Baden (see above). On the 1., surrounded by the Limmat, stand the extensive buildings and gardens of the former Cister- cian Abbey of Wettingen (1200'), now a seminary. The church contains the sarcophagus of the Emperor Albert (p. 16), whose body reposed in it for 15 months, after which it was conveyed to Speyer. The stained-glass windows are of the 16th and 17th centuries, the carved stalls of the 17th. The handsome building to the 1. , on the slope of the Lcigerngebirg (2828'), a hill with a long and sharp ridge , formerly contained the wine-press of the Abbey. The line now passes stat. Killwangen., and enters the canton of Ziirich near Dietikon (1286') (Lowe). At this town Massena made his celebrated passage of the Limmat, Sept. 24th, 1799, after which he repulsed the Russians and took Ziirich. Next stations Scldieren and Altstetten. Near Ziirich the long ridge of the Uetli with its inn (p. 31) becomes visible; on the E. side it is very precipitous. The large building on the slope to the 1. is the Weid (p. 27). The whole line from Brugg to Zurich ( 11/.2 hr.) presents a series of interesting landscapes, especially the neighbourhood of Ziirich, where the distant Alps on the and the Albisriicken, terminating towards the N. in the Uetli, lie into view. The heights in the environs of Ziirich are •jiikled with country-houses. Before entering the railway sta- n the line crosses the Sihl. Ziirich^ see p. 26. I. From Bale to Ziirich by Waldshut and Turgi. eSi's M. Baden Kuilwav (to Waldshut) and Swiss North I. astern, in 3 — 4 hrs. ; fares 5 tl., 3 ll. 21, 2(1. 26 kr. — The seats on the right as far as Turgi are to be preferred. Baden station, see p. 16. The line traverses the narrow, fruit- B.EUEKKK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 2 18 Route 8. WALDSHUT. ful plain between the S. spurs of the Black Forest and the valley of the Rhine, which is here of considerable depth. The first station is Grenzach, where an excellent wine, hardly inferior to 'Markgrafler' is produced ; next stat. WyJden. At stat. Rheinfelden the line approaches the Rhine, which here rushes impetuously over its rocky bed; the 1. bank is precipitous and well wooded. Rheinfelden (866') (*Zu7n Sokutzen; * Krone), a Swiss town on the 1. bank, is built on the ruins of the ancient Roman station Augusta Rauracorum, destroyed by barbarian invaders. It was founded by Munatius Plancus (see p. 1) during the reign of the Emperor Augustus, and originally stood on the site of the village of Basel- Augst, 3 M. distant. Rheinfelden was in an- cient times strongly fortified, and was one of the frontier-forts of the Holy Roman Empire. It was repeatedly besieged, and was at last taken and razed to the ground by the French in 1744. Since 1801 it has belonged to Switzerland. The cele- brated generals of the Thirty Years' War, Bernhard von Weimar and Johann von Worth, fought many battles under its walls du- ring the spring of 1638, with varying fortunes. The foaming stream here dashes over the rocks, and forms the so-called HoUenhaken rapids. Near the town are extensive salt-works and salt-baths, which attract numerous visitors (*Struve's bath-estab., pension 4 — 6 fr.). The line intersects the vineyards and gardens of Beuggen (909'J, formerly a lodge of the Teutonic order, a handsome build- ing with numerous windows. Since 1817 it has been employed as a Seminary and Reformatory for children. Brennet^ which is next reached, is the station for the * Wehrastrasse (see Bcpdeker's Rhine and N. Germany^, a gorge which bears some resemblance to the Via Mala. Stat. Sackingen (958') (Bad or Lowe), a considerable town, possessing an old abbey-church with two towers. The abbey, subseqiiently a nunnery, was secularised in the early part of the present century. Next stat. Murg (1027') at the mouth of the Murg , and Klein- Lauffenburg, opposite to which, picturesquely placed on the 1. bank, stands the Swiss town of Lauffenburg (Post), with its ancient castle , where the Rhine dashes impetuously over its narrow and rocky bed. Below the cataract (the ^Lauffen^, of which a glimpse is obtained from the train, salmon are caught in large numbers. The line penetrates the mountain by a tunnel , and reaches stat. Luttingen (1036') and Hauenstein, crossing some lofty via- ducts. It occasionally approaches the river. Then stat. Albbruck (1017') and Dogern (1040'). Waldshut (Rebstock), the most important of these small towns on the Rhine, is situated at a considerable height above the river. f Zx- J(ti^ "^ flfrr*^* „r,j^^^ X. ■SOttAFFHAUSEN. 9. Route. J 9 About 10 M. to the N. of Waldsliut, on the high road to St. Blasien (post-omnibus daily), is situated Hochenschwand (Orhs) (3314'), the highest village in the IJlack Forest, whence a magnificent prospect of the Alps is olitained. Comp. liaedeker's Rhine and N. Oermany. The Swiss Junction Railway crosses the Rhine below stat. Koblenz (1033'), near the influx of the Aare^ passes in a long curve through a tunnel, and approaches the Aare near Klinynau. The river remains visible only as far as stat. D'oltinyen. After Sigijenlluil is passed, the llahshunj ^ which stands on a wooded liill to the r. (see p. 16j, becomes visible. The line crosses the Limmat near its confluence with the Aare. At Turgi (p. lOj carriages are changed for those of the North Eastern Railway. From Turgi to Zurich, see R. 7. 9. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance. 9n|8 M. Baden Railway in 5 hrs. ; fares to SchalThauscn 3 11. 54, 2 11. 39, 1 11. 42 kr. •, to Constance 5 fl. 57, 4 fl. 3, 2 fl. 3G kr. Ncuhausen is the station for the Falls of the Rhine (comp. R. 11). Seats on the rigfit to be preferred. — Steamboat from Schalfhausen to Constance in 4 — 5 hours, returning in 3 hrs. •, scenery picturesque, but the ascent by steam- boat is tedious. From Bale to AValdshut see pp. 17, 18. Beyond Waldshut the train passes through a tunnel, beyond which occasional glimpses of the Alps are obtained. To the r. diverges the Swiss line to Turgi (see above). Beyond stat. Thiengen (Krone) the ancient Klettgau is traversed. Near stat. Oberlauchringen the Wutach is crossed. To the r., on a wooded eminence, the castle of Kilssenberg. Next stat. Griessen, Erzingen, Wilchingen, the flrst village in the canton of Schaffhausen, Neunkirch, Beringen, and Neuhausen (Hotel Rheinfall), station for the Falls of the Rhine (comp. however p. 23). Hotels see p. 23. Schaffhausen (1296') (*Krone, R. I'/o, B. I1/4 fr. ; Post; Schifjf; Lijwe; Jiiese, small J, capital of the canton of that name (p©p. 10,303, 1600 Rom. Cath.), still retains the picturesque me- diieval aspect of the Swabian cities of the (iermanic Empire. The best view of the town is obtained from the village of Feuerthalen, on the opp. bank of the Rhine, which is crossed by two bridges. The Cathedral, a basilica in the early Romanesque style, founded in 1104, completed in 1453, formerly an abbey-church, is remarkable for the massiveness of its construction. Portions of the cloisters are in a good state of preservation , and the in- terior of tlie church has lately been restored in harmony with the original style. The great bell, cast in 1486, bears the inscrip- tion : Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango, which suggested to Schiller the idea of liis beautiful ^Lied von der Glocke'. Tl»e Church of St. John dates from 1120. The castle of Munoth (Munitio?), erected during the great famine of 1 5(54, in order to afford support to tlu; indigent, com- mands the town. It consists of a round tower of several stories, 2* 20 Route y. KADOLPHSZELL. which with the aJjoining building is believed tu date I'runi the 15th cent., although frequently added to in more modern times. The Library (Biiryer-Bibliotliek) contains nothing worthy of mention , except a collection of books and MSS. of the eminent Swiss historian Johann v. Miiller (b. at Schaifhausen in 1752, d. at Cassel in 1809). to whose memory his fellow-citizens have erected a monument on the Vesenstaub promenade; the terrace towards the Rhine affords a beautiful view of the rapids and the Alps. — The ImtJiurneum, erected and presented to the town by ]\I. Imthurn , a citizen of Schaffhausen . contains a handsome theatre, concert-rooms, etc. Beyond Schaffhausen the line turns towards the N.E. Stat. Herblingen, Thayingen, Gottmadingen, and Singen (*Krone). Branch-Railway hence (in i|4 hr., fares 31, 24, 15 kr.), skirting: the E. .sloiies of the Hdhgau, by stat. Miihlhausen and Welschingen, to Engcii (comp. Baedeker's Southern Genuanii). About 2 31. to the X. W. ( 1.) of Singen, on an isolated basaltic rock, rises the fortress of Hohentwiel (—44'), the ]n-operty of the Wiirtemherf: srovernnient, although in tlie Bavarian dominions. It was hraveh and >iuccessfnl]y defended liy the Wiirleniberg commandant in tlie Thirty Years" War. Tlie grand ruins command a fine prospect of the Tyrolese and Swi.-s Alps as far as 31oats (about 24 in number) ply at least once daily, and on the chief routes (Friedrich.sha fen-Constance in I'jahr., Friedrichshafen-Roman.U.J^< ^i^Sliri-* ^^'' ,4 r FRIEDRICHSHAFEN. 10. Route. 21 itics even on quitting one German town for another, for instance from Friodrich.sIiatVn or l.iiirtaii to Constance. The Lake of Constance (1306') fOer. Bodensee, Lat. Lacu» Brigantinus)^ an immense reservoir of the Rhine, 90 M. in circumference, is, from Bre- genz to the influx of the Stockach, 42 M. long, about 8 31. wide, and between Kriedrichshafen and Arbon 912' deep. The water is of a light green colour. The lake forms the boundary of live difiercnt states: Baden, Wiirtemberg, Bavaria, Austria (Vorarlberg), and Switzerland (St. Gall and Thurgau). — Mefr.tfnn-ger is the t)est wine grown on its banks, and Felrhen and trout the best lisli it produces. The N. K. banks are in general flat, but are bounded on the S. W. by beautiful wooded hills, which gradually decrease in height toward.s Con- stance. In the l)eauty of its scenery the lake of Constance cannot vie with its other Swiss rivals ; but its broad expanse of water, its picturesque banks, and green hills, the chain of the Appenzell Alps in the distance, the snow- clad Sentis in particular, and other snow-peaks of the Vorarlberg Alps, visible in clear weather, iimibine to impress the traveller who visits Switzerland for tlie lirst time with the most pleasurable sensations. Friedrichshafen ( 13iy'J (I)eutsches Ha us, near the station, 11.48, B. oO, A. 15 kr. •, Hotel Bellevue, formerly Xestle., with garden on the lake, halfway between the station and the quay; "Konig von Wiirtemberg, 'J4 M. to the N. of the station-, Sonne; 'Krone, with a small garden by the lake, of the second class ; Beer-garden ' Ziir Krone ■" by the lake, with a beautiful view), the S. terminus of the Wiirtem- berg line, is a busy town during the summer. Its lake-baths attract many visitors, especially from 8wabia. The royal Schloss contains a few pictures by modern Wiirtemberg artists. Gegenbauer, Pflug, &c.; from a pavilion in the garden of the Schloss. which is open to the public (closed for a few hours daily during the resi- dence of the royal family) a very beautiful view of the lake and the Alps is obtained. The harbour, about i M. distant from the railway station, presents an animated scene. Travellers about to proceed by steamboat without stoppage are con- veyed from the railway station to the quay by a branch line; those also who arrive by steamer may take their tickets immediately on landing, and enter the railway-carriages at once. Durii»g the passage of the steamer, if the weather is stormy, the horrors of sea-sickness are not unfrequently encountered. To the N., on an arm of the lake called the Veherlimier See, stands the little town of Meersburg , in the dominions of Baden, with an ancient and modern castle and seminary , picturesquely situ- ated at a considerable height above the lake. Farther on, the little island of Mainau (p. '23). Farther towards the N. lies UeberLingen, with lake and mineral-water-baths. The boat next passes tlie promontory which separates the I'eberlinger See from the bay of Constance, and reaches Constance, after a passage of 11/2 l»r. (By Romanshorn see p. 23.) Constance. -Hecht, R. 1 11., D. 1 fl. 45, B. 3G, A. 2i kr. ; Adler, similar charges; ^Badischer Hof. — Krone and Schiff, second cl. — The extensive Sicimining-I''stal>lishme>it in the lake is well lifted up. — Swiss telegr. stat. at Kreuzlingen (p. 23), ^\\ M. from the S. gate, where the Pension Helvetia is also situated (4—5 fr. per day). Constance (133r)'), a free town till the year 1548, and after the Reformation subject to Austria, has now a population of 10.0rV2 ( 1'200 Prot.). though it once numbered as many as 40.000. 22 Route 10. CONSTANCE. It is situated at the N.W. extremity of the lake, at the i)oint where the Rhine emerges. The episcopal see, over which 87 bishops in succession held jurisdiction, was secularised in 1802. Three years later, at the treaty of Pressburg, Constance was adjudged to Baden. The *Cai/jedrai, founded in 1048, was rebuilt in its present form at the beginning of the 16th cent. The Gothic tower was erected in 1850 — 1857; the spire, perforated like that of Frei- burg cathedral, is of light grey sandstone, and has a platform on either side. A short stay in Constance will be best employed in visiting the cathedral and ascending the tower (*view). On the doors of the principal portal are 'Bas-Keliefs in 2() scction.s, represontinp scenes from the life of Christ, carved in oak by Sim. Baider in 1470. The * Choir Stalls with protesquc sculptures, are of the same dale. The organ -loft, richly ornamented in the Renaissance style, dates tVom 16S0. In the nave, the arches fif which are supported l>y 16 mono- lithic pillars (48' high, 3' thick), sixteen paces from the principal entrance, is a large stone slah , a white spot on which always remains dry when the leniaining portion is damp. Huss is said to have stood on tliis spot when the Council of July Glh, 1415, sentenced him to be burnt at the stake. In the S. chapel near the choir an Interment of Christ in high relief; in the N. chapel a Death of the Virgin, coloured stone figures life siy,e, date 1460. — The Treasury contains missals embellished with miniatures, date 1426. On the E. side of the church is a crypt, C(mtaining the Chapel of the Hfily Sepulchre, with a representation of the sepulchre in stone, 20' high. On the exterior of the N. side are still to lie seen two aisles of the cloister, from which a good idea of the richness of tlie architecture may be formed. The sacristan shows the whole of Ihe cathedral (fee 24 krV), but the door ftn the S. side is usually open. The Church of St. Stepheiiy a pure Gothic building near the B. 1. 1). 2'|,., L. and A. ^j^ fr., at stat. Dachsen, 3|4 31. from the Falls. English Church Service in the Scluveizerhof. Travellers from Bale to SchatVhausen may alight at stat. Neuhausen, whence the Falls may be reached in a few minutes. In order, however, to preclude the possibility of disappointment, they should invariably be approached on the --left bank. The traveller is therefore strongly recom- mended to continue his journey to SchatVhausen, and proceed thence by the North Eastern line to stat. Dachsen (in 10 min. , fares 50, 35, 25 c.j. 24 Route 11. FALLS OF THE RHINE. 3J4 M. to the S. of (the Falls (omnibus to the Falls and back 1 fr.). Or ho may prefer to walk direct from Schatfhausen to Laufen, a distance of 2 31. The following walk will occupy about 2 hrs. : from Dachsen to Schloss Laufen, the Fischetz, over the bridge to Neuhausen and the Schlosschen AViirth (to Stat. Xeuhausen ^n M.), whence the traveller may avail himself of the ferry (3(.) c.) to Schloss Laufen. It is, however, preferable to proceed by a level and shady footpath (on emerging from the wood, a fine view is obtained of the Falls to the 1.) to the village of Xohl (ij-.^ 3!.), there cross (lOc.) to the opp. bank, and ascend ('(4 M.) to the village of Dachsen. *Schloss laufen (1361 'J, picturesquely situated on a wooded rock on tlie L bank, immediately above the Falls, is the point from which this celebrated cataract is viewed to the best advantage. The owner, by virtue of a contract with the government of Ziirich (to which canton Schloss Laufen belongs), is authorised to de- mand an entrance-fee of 1 fr. from every foreigner, and 60 cent, from every Swiss who visits the castle (no additional gratuities). In order fully to appreciate the grandeur of the spectacle, the visitor should descend from the castle to the ^Fischetz, a wooden gallery which projects over the foaming abyss. The view from this point is impressive in the extreme : the huge falling volume of water can even be reached by the hand, whilst the spectator, removed from all danger, is bedewed by the spray. From the Fischetz the visitor ascends through the grounds, pausing at the different points of view (e. g. the *Kdnz€lf), until he reaches the summer-house with stained -glass windows, and finally the handsome, new apartments on the first floor of the chateau, the balcony of which affords a last survey of the Falls, the bridge, and the environs. For an additional fee of 1/2 ^^• the tourist may once more view the whole scene in the Camera Obscura. In June and July the volume of water is greatly increased by the melting of the snow. During sunshine innumerable rainbows tinge the clouds of silvery spray which rise from the gulf. The view by moonlight is also strikingly impressive, and the traveller is therefore recommended to spend a night at the Falls, or at Dachsen, in preference to SchatThausen. (The Falls are frequently illuminated during the summer.) The breadth of the Rhine above the Falls is 880'; their height is about 50' on the r. bank, and 64' on the 1., the differ- ence being occasioned by the unequal height of the ridge over which the river precipitates itself; if the rapids, the whirlpools, and the falls a few hundred paces higher up be taken into account, the total height of the cataract may be estimated at nearly 100' (level of the Rhine above the falls 1260', below 1181'). Of the four limestone -rocks which rise from the cataract, one third of that nearest to the 1. bank has been worn away by the action of the water; the centre rock is surmounted by a miniature tent. When viewed from below, the rocks seem to tremble and waver. From the Schlosschen of Worth (see below), when the water is at its average height, the visitor may be conveyed in a boat to the central rock, and, by ascending it, ob- tain a view of the Falls from the most favourable point. This excursion, FALLS OF THE IIULNE. II. Route. 25 which (inly occupies a few minutes, is entirely unattended witli danger, though the agitated waters cause considerable motion to tlie boat. Pare for 1 to 3 pers. 3 fr. and boatman's fee; for each additional person 1 fr. These rocks have undergone no change within the memory of man, but a decrease in the volume of the Rhine has been observed at Schatl'hausen of late years. It is remarkal)le that no mention of this cataiact is made by ancient writers, from which it is inferred by some tliat the Khine may have changed its cour.se, and that the present fall dates from the middle ages only (V). After having surveyed the falls from the different points of view at the castle of Laufen, the visitor on leaving should de- scend to the 1., at the sign-post indicating the way to Schloss Laufen, to the *l>ridge across the falls (RheinfaUbriicke), over which the railway from SchalThausen to Ztirich (see below) passes. The arches vary in width of span , in consequeiue of the diffi- culty of obtaining a foundation for the piers. The upper side of the bridge is provided with a foot-way, which affords a re- markable view of the rocky bed of the river, the rapids, and the falls below. On the r. bank a good footpath, leading to the 1. from the bridge, ascends at a considerable elevation above the Rhine (tine view of the falLs), to the extensive railway-carriage manufactory near Neuhausen (Hotel Rheinfall). Here the visitor may descend the stair on the 1. to the parapet near the sluices, whence another good view of the falls is obtained. Then descending to the r. by the road past the ironworks, and following the path by the Rhine (a bench by the path is another picturesque *point of view, by some preferred to Schloss Laufen), he will reach the Schliiss- ehen Worth (Inn: camera obscura 75 cejit.), a i^quare tower on an island opposite the falls, connected with the r. bank by a bridge. If the traveller now a.-cend the terrace of the Schxceizer- hof (at Stat. Neuhausen), 230' above the water on the r. bank of the Rhine, he will enjoy a prospect of the entire chain of the Alps, together with the Falls and their environs; the Bernese Alps to the r. (Omnibus to the railway stat. at Schaffhausen, fare I'/.ifr.) 12. From Schaffhausen to Ztirich. Coinp. ^f^lJl.< pp. 2i>^ :>S. Bv the .Swiss North Eastern Kailwav in i Ins. ( lo Winlerthur 1 hr., to Zurich 1 hr. ). Fares G fr., 4 fr. 'i<)c.. 3 fr. View of the Falls on the right. The line skirts the lower end of the Vesenstaub (p. 20) pro- menade, and passes umler the castle of Charlottenfels . built by a wealthy clockmaker of Schaffhausen. On the r. , considerably higher than the Ziirich line, is the railway to Waldshut (R. H), which passes through a tunnel, nW' long, under Charlottenfels. The train to Zurich, immediately after passing through the long cutting, crosses the Bridge orer the Falls (see above), BHO' long, and supported by nine arches of from 4'2' to fio' span. A glimpse is obtained of the falls to the r. , and the tunnel, 213' long. 26 Route 13. ZURICH. under SchLoss Lauftn (p. 24) is then entered. On emerging, the train commands another beautiful, but momentary retrospect of the falls. The train stops at stat. Dachsen (1296') (see p. 23), 3/4 M. from Schloss Laufen. Farther on, pleasing views present them- selves at intervals of the bluish-green Rhine, as it flows far below in its narrow bed, enclosed by lofty wooded baidcs. The following stat. is Marthalen. The valley of Andelfingen soon begins to open^ and the handsome village is visible in the distance to the r. , on the precipitous banks of the Thur. The train approaches it by a wide curve, and crosses the Thur above the village, by a suspension bridge, 115' long. It then skirts the river for a short distance and arrives at Andelfingen on the S. side. The remainder of the route to Winterthur is less interesting, although the scenery is still picturesque. The next stations arc Henygart and Hettlinyen. The vine-dad slopes of Neftenbarh, to the r., produce the best wines of N. Switzerland; among others Gallenspitz is particularly esteemed. On approaching Winterthur the broad valley of the Toss is entered. Winterthur, and thence to Zurich, see p. 34. Change of carriages. 13. Zurich and the Uetliberg. Hotels. Hotel vt Pen h ion Uaur an Lac (PI. a), charmingly situated on the banks of the lake, well cunducted, with garden, hath.s, and reading-room adjoining, R. 3 — 6 fr., B. I'l^ fr., D. exc. W. at 1 o'cl. 4'|2 fr., at 4 o'cl. 5 fr., A. 1 fr. •, Pension 8 fr. and upwards. ■B cllevu c (PI. d) on the lake, opposite the Bauschanze, similar charges, also commanding a tine view. Hotel Ziesing-Baur (PI. b), in the town, more moderate; • Schwert (PI. c), by the lower bridge, view of the Alps, R.2— 3, B. 1— I'ji, A. 3J4, L. ij.fr.; -Zu richer Hof (PI. e), opposite the Bellevuc, R. 2 fr. ; S torch (PI. f), newly fitted up, R. li|o, B. 1 fr. ; Falke (PI. g), between the lake and the post-ofticc, R. 2, B. 1>(4, A. ^j-^ fr. ; Schweizerhof (PL i), on the r. bank of the Limmat below the second bridge, E. 2, D. 3fr. ; Scheller and Rossli near the Ziiricher Hof; Schwarzer Adlcr, of humble pretcnsiim. Visitors are received at all these establishments in spring and autumn en pension. — Then ''Pension Neptun at Seefeld, near Zurich, new, 5')2 — 6 fr. per day ; "Hotel et Pension Cygne(Pl. h) on the Miihknbach, well situated, pleasant garden, 5'|-2 fr. a day; Weiss es K r e u z , 4 — 5 fr. a day. — Biirgli Terrace and W e i d see below. R i n - derknecht, at Fluntern, iJja M. E. of Zurich; K aro 1 inenbur g, 3|4 M. higher. Palmhof, at Oberstrass, a short distance N. of the Polytechnic, view of the valley of the Limmat. Dinner-hour usually 12. 30. The inn on the Uetliberg, a charming point of view, also aflbrds tolerable accommodation. Restaurants etc. At the hotels Baur, Bellevue, and Z ii r i c h e r h o f. ' Saf ran, opposite the Rathhaus; Kronenhalle, above the Ziiricherhof ; Cafe Litter aire, adjoining the Storch, table d'hote at 12. 3(); Bau- garten, see below; Rail. Restaurant; Cafe du Nord and Altes Schiitzenha us, near the station. — Ices at Spriingli's near the Baur Hotel and post -office. — Beer: Brunner, in the Frau - Bliinsterplatz ; Gambrinus, Schofelgasse ; at the Bollerei, on the quay; Strohhof, at the back of St. Peter's; Tonhalle, on the lake, etc. —'VultelUna Wine at the V e 1 1 1 i n e r h a 1 1 e, ZVliU'M I'i. liouU 2/ Points of View. In tho town, the Haufiarten, hc-lonctint; to a private society, straiitxers readily admitted. Garden (restaurant) at (H>er.stras.s, fine view, open-air theatre. Tlie -Hiir-rli Terrace (with Pension) '|2 Ji- nn the road to the Uetliberg; the *Weid on the Kalert)erjr , 3 M. to the N.W. of the town (pension 3— .7 fr.); the -Uetlibcrg (p. 31), 2 hrs. walk to the S.W. of the town. Newspapers at the Museum (PI. 20), in a detached liousc on the ripht bank of the Limniat ; stran-ters provided with an introduction are admitted {gratis for 1 month from 9 a. m. to 10 p. m. Baths in the lake (for ladies also) near the Bauschanze, admirably lifted up; bath 15c., towel etc. 20 c, private room 40 c. Another estab. at the 8. end of the town, on the E. bank of the lake. Warm Baths (IJussiau etc.) at =Stocker\s in the Jliihlgarten. Rowing-boats 30 c. per hour; larjie boat with awninj; I fr. ; each rower 00 e. \Hv lidiii-: ferrv to steamer 10 c, lu^igape 10 c. Meiiirs Zooi>la$tif .Uuseiim, Stadelhofsplatz (1 fr.), line pnuips of stufled animals. >Siimmer T/naIre at Oberstrass, see above. — Fanorama of the Rhji in the suburb Enge, sec p. 32. Steamboats (see p. 38) start from the Bauschanze (p. 31), the .screw- steam. rs iVom the Bellevue Hotel. These smaller ves.>chool. Farther on in the same direction, the Cantonal Hospital (PI. (3) on the r., ;'iid the adjoining School of Anatomy are attained; to the 1. on the slope of the hill is an AftyUnn for the blind and dumb (PI. 4); lower down to the 1. the Hall of Art (V\. '21), con- taining some good modern pictures by Ludwig Hess. Diday and Koller, and the handsome ^Polytechnic (PI. '28). erected 1861 — 64, the terrace in front of which commands one of the finest views of the town and lake. Descending to the 1. beyond the Polytechnic, the traveller next reaches the garden of the Deanery of St. Leonard ( Pfrundhaus. PI. '2'2). a large building on the slope of the hill, now an asylum for aged and destitute persons. The garden- terrace, to which the public arc admitted, affords a survey of the valley of the Limmat and the railway to Baden. Returning to the road and passing the Pfrundhaus, the traveller takes the first >trcet to the I. and then descends by a flight of steps. The smoking chimneys and confused din intimate that the maniifac- luring quarter of Ziirich is now entered. Among the most 30 Route 13. ;iURlCH. Lindenhof. remarkable factories may be mentioned that of the engineers Escher, Wyss., and Co., who have constructed most of the steam- boats which navigate the Swiss and Italian lakes, as well as many of those on the Danube and Black Sea. The traveller now reaches the railway station by a substantial new bridge, completed in 1864. The long avenue of handsome trees, to the N. of the railway station, .skirting the banks of the Liinmat, alVords a cool and pleasant walk. It terminates in a point of land called the 'Platzspitz' (so named from the former Schiitzenplatz), which is formed by the junction of the river aS/7*/ (generally very shallow in summer) with the Limmat. A flying bridge (5 cent. ) crosses to the beer -garden Dra/iisrJuniedli on the r. bank of the Limmat, the pleasantest route to the "Weid ( p. 21). Half-way between the gas-mauufactory and the Platzspitz stands the simple monument and bust of the poet S'alomo Gessner (d. 1788), whose favourite resort was the 'Platzi)V{)nienade\ Near the centre of the town rises the Lindenhof (PL 23), situated 115' above the Limmat, in ancient times a Celtic settle- ment, then a Roman station, later an imperial palace, where in the 9th and 10th cent, a public court of judicature was held. The Gothic Free-Masons' Lodge was erected on the S.E. side in 1851. Descending on the S. side by the street to the r. , the tra- veller arrives at the Augustine Church (PL 16), used for three hundred years as a magazine, but in 1848 restored to its origi- nal use as a Rom. Cath. place of a worship, and now a model of simplicity and good taste. The two Pictures over the side altars, 'Christ on the mount of Olives', and 'the Risen Saviour" by Deschwanden, are able works ; the high altar, pulpit, and organ are also worthy of mention. Adjoining the S. side of the church is the former Augustine monastery. A little farther to the S.E. is St. Peter's Church (PL 19), of which the excellent Lavater (d. 1801) was pastor for 23 years. N.W. of the Roman Cath. church, on the opposite side of the Bahnhofs- strasse, is the old Cemetery, adjoining the Chapel of St. Anjia, in which English Church Service is performed during the season. Here rests Lavater; an upright stone by the E. wall marks his grave. The remains of Ebel , the author of an admirable work on Switzerland (b. 17(>4 at Ziillichau, d. 1830), and Escher ron der Linth, the constructor of the Escher canal ( p. 42), are also interred here. From the Bahnhofs-Strasse the traveller, following the Pelican- Strasse, arrives at the Botanical Garden (PL 5), containing 800 Alpine plants, and busts of De Candolle (d. 1841) and Conrad Gessner (d. 1565), executed in bronze. Here rises a bastion of the old fortress known as the *Katz, forming an ele- vated platform planted with lime-trees, and commanding a splen- did view of the town, lake, Alps, and valley of the Limmat. On leaving the botanical gardens, the traveller should cross the canal bridge ('Schanzengraben', formerly a moat) to the r., follow the bank till he reaches the next bridge, then passing the 'Falke" hotel descend by the street to the r. to the Hotel Baur Vetliberg. ;5URICH. 13. Route. 31 a\i Lac. Passing the bath-houses (between which a pleasing glimpse of the lake) he will arrive at the *Bauschanze, a small pentagonal island, surrounded by walls (fornuTly a bastion), shaded by thick foliage, and connected with the land by a bridge, similar to the Ronsseau-lsland at Geneva, and commanding a beautiful view of the lake anvei-ed wooden bridge, and then winds uinvai-(ls from Uiiier-Albii^ to S^Ja 31. Ober-Albis (26t)2'), a solitary inn at the liighest point of the road. The IJodncarhl (2887') (poor inn). l'|-j M. from the road and the Albis Inn. atTords a beautiful and e.\tensive prospect, embracing the entire Lake of Ziirich, the volcanic heights of Swabia to the X., the Lake of Zug, Rigi, Pilatus, part of the Lake of Lucerne, and the Alps frcun the Sentis to the Jungfrau to the W. and S. The Sihl winds alongs the entire F. base of the Albis. Here in 1799 the French and Russians faced each other during three months : the former were posted on the Albis . their adversaries on the r. bank of the Sihl, until at length Massena effected his famous passage of the Linunat (p. 17), and compelled the Russians to retreat. The road descends gradually in long curves: it passes near the little Tiirlev Hee (on the r.) (2129') and reaches Hausen(2l)34') (iw^re;, a thriving village in a beautiful district. In the neighbourhood, on a wooded height lo the 1. of the road, is Albisbnaiii, a hydrnpathic estab.. much frecjuented by French patients (pension 6i|4 fr.). The next village is Kappel (1879'), with the Gothic church of an ancient Cistercian convent, cont.iiniiii some old stained glass. A battle took place here on Oct. Uth, 1531, between the Rom. Cath. cantons united with Lucerne, and the reformers of Zurich, amongst whom was Zwingli. \ metal plate, inserted in the rock . and bearing a German and Latin inscription, is to be seen on the road near Kappel; it indicat<'s the sjiot where a soldier of Unterwalden found Zwingli wounded and. without knowing him, pierced him with his sword tor refusing to invoke the Virgin and Saints, ^'ear Jiaar (p. 47) the roads from the Albis and Horgen unite. .M. Zug, see p. 47. — Pedestrians may, as far as £aai\ 2>J4 M. from Zug. always avoid the high road and follow pleasant footpaths, which are easily found. The walk from Zurich by the Uetli, Albis Hochwachf, Han- sen, and Kappel, to Zug will then occupy about 8 hrs. (comp. p. 32). 15. From Ziirich to Bern by Olten, Aarburg, and Herzogenbuchsee. Swiss Xorth Eastern and Central Railwavs. In 4— 5i|-. hrs. i fare 13 fr. 75, 9 fr. 65. 6 fr. 9t) c. From Zurich to Olten, see R. 7 ; from Olten to Herzogenbuchsee, see p. 8; from Herzogenbuchsee to Bern, see p. 13. B.tDEKLK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 3 34 16- From Zurich to Friedrichshafen and Liiidau by Eomanshorn. Comp. Maps pp. S8. 18. 20. Swiss North Eastern K a i 1 w a y. Tu Romanshorn in 2 hrs. ; fare 8 fr. 75, 6 fr. 10, 4 fr. 35 c. Steamboat to Friedrichshafen in 1 hr. ; fare 3G or 24 kr. ; to Lindau in li|.j hr. ; fare 1 tl. 6 kr. or 42 kr., see p. 2U. The line crosses the SiJil^ ascends in a wide curve, crosses the Liinmat by an iron bridge, and passes between the Kafer- berg on the 1. and the Ziirichberg on the r. through the tunnel of Oerlikon (3060' in length ). Between the stations of Oerlikon and WaUiseUen it crosses the GLatt. To the S. the line to Rap- perschwyl diverges, see p. 41. The next stations are Effretikon and Kempthal. Near Winterthur the line crosses the Tiiss. On an emiiiencf to the 1. the ruins of Hoch-WiiLflingen. Winterthur (1473') CG old. Lei we; -Krone: -Ad ler, nearest (he station. R. lijo. B. 1 fr. ; Refreshm. at the Ca/e Bitter, the Casino, and the Rail. Station), situated on the Eularh, is an industrial and wealthy town with 9404 inhab. (974 Rom. Cath.). The town displayed a de- voted attachment to Austria in ancient times. Independence was ac- corded to it in 1417, but this distinction it voluntarily resigned in 1442, and became once more subject to Austria. Since 1467 it has belonged to Ziirich. The new Toiim Hall was designed by Prof. Semper. The large School (adorned wnth statues of Zwingli, Gessner, Pestalozzi. and Sulzer) (1840), on the Promenade, con- tains a few small Roman antiquities found near Ober-Winterthur C Vitodurumj. Excellent wine is grown in the neighbourhood, the best at Neftenbach (p. 26). — The ancient castle oi Kyburg, 41/2 M. S. of AVinterthur. commands a fine view, and contains a collection of ancient pictures. The Schaffhausen-St. Gall and Ziirich-Romanshorn lines inter- sect at M interthur. The latter traverses the green and fertile canton of Thurgau. Next stat. Wiesendangen and Islikon. Frauenfeld (1374') (*Falke), capital of the Canton of Tlmr- gau, with 5138 inhab. (1079 Rom. Cath.), on the Murg, possesses numerous cotton-mills. J>arracks opposite the station. The hand- some old castle on its ivy-clad crag is said to have been built by a Count von Kyburg in the llth cent. Next Stat. Felwen. Near stat. Mulheim the line crosses the Thur by a covered wooden bridge. From Jliilheim to Constance diligence once daily in 2 hrs. Near yViildi , at a little distance 1. of the road, is a belvedere on the Hohen- rain, commanding a magnificent view. Then stat. Marstetten and Weinfelden (1404') (diligence daily to Constance in 2 hrs.). Schloss Weinfelden (iSi)0'\ rises on a vine-clad hill to the 1. Next stat. Bilrglen, Sulgen, Am- risti-yl, and then Romanshorn (1322') C/fofei /iof/tm; Romerhom), situated on a peninsula on the Lake of Constance, with a good ST. GALL. 77. Route. 35 harbour. The railway runs close to the harbour, and the trains correspond with the steamboats. Lake of Constance and Fried- richshafen, see p . '21. 17. From Zurich to Lindau by St. Gall and Rorschach. Comp. Maps pp. 18, 20. U n i t e d S vv i s s R a i 1 w a \ s ( Vereinigte Schweizerbahnen) from Wintei - thiir to Korschach. To Rorschach in 4iJ-j hrs. ; fare 10 fr. 65, 7 fr. 50, 5 fr. 35 c. — Steamboat from Rorschach to Lindau in P|4 hr. ; fare 48 or 32 kr. , see p. 2U. This route is about 2'|2 hrs. loneer than tlie preced- ing (R. 16j. From Ziirich to Winterthur (in 1 lir.) see p. 34. The St. Gall railway traverses a distriit not remarkable for beauty, consisting chiefly of meadow-land, with wooded hills on either side. The Churflrsten mountains gradually become visible to the S. , and the mountains of Appeiizell to the S.E. Numerous stations, the ttrst of which is Rattr.-ichen^ and the jiext Elgg , beyond which rise^ SchLoss Ely y. Next stations /lac/o//, Eschtikon, and /Sirnac/j ; then Wyl (1936') (Srhonthal, or Post), a town with several monasteries. The station commands a pleasing view of the Sentis and the neighbouring mountains. The line crosses the Thur , by an open-work bridge, 476' long, near the station and old castle of Schwarzenbach. Stat. Ober-i'zivyl is IV.? M. from the hydropathic estab. oi Buchenthal. Flawyl (^'2015') (*liossU) is a large manufacturing village. The Gltitt is crossed. Stat. Gossan, Winkeln. From Winkeln diligence daily by Herisau (Lowe), a small town with extensive muslin -manufactories and ancient clock-tower (7th cent.), to Watt wyl (p. 2Ut) in the Toggenburg. and Teul'en (p. 231) in the Canton of Appenzell. The iron *Brldge (10 min. by rail, from St. Gall), which spans the deep valley of the Sitter near Bruygen , is B'20' long, '230' above the level of the river, and rests on 3 cast-iron piers, 176' high (stone foundations 37' high), composed of perforated iron plates. Somewhat lower down the stream is the h'riizern- hr'ucke, a bridge constructed in 1810. once regarded as a triumph of engineering skill. St. Gall. Ilecht, good cuisine: Lowe, R. IM2, B. 1, D. 3, A.ijvfr.i "Hirsch; Linde; Schiff, Ochs, ^Biir, more moderate i refreshments at. the Cafe National and the Distelsang. — Tivoli, an inn and pension (view of the town and part of the Lake of Constance) on the road to Trogen, 1 M. from St. Call. Telegv. Stat, at the post-oftice. St. Gait ('2'20r, one of the most elevated towns in Europe), capital of the canton, and (since 1846) an episcopal residence, with 16,676 inliab. (5957 Rom. Cath.), has sometimes been termed the Majichester of Switzerland, from the importance of its linen and cotton manufactories. The embroidery of cotton goods is one of its specialties. The Benedictine Abbey , once so celebrated , was founded in the 7th cent, by St. Gallus . a Scotch monk, aiul from the 8tli 3* 36 Route 17. .ST. GALL. From Zurich to the 10th cent, was one of the niObt important scientitic semi- naries in Europe. It was suppressed in 1805. The Library con- tains many remarkable and valuable MSS. (e. g. several copies of the Nibelungenlied . dating from the 13th cent.), of much interest to the literary antiquarian. There is also a catalogue dating from 823 . 400 of the manuscripts nientioned in which are still extant. The Cathedral (Rom. Cath.), rebuilt in 1755 in the Italian style, of which it is a fine example, has some beautiful frescoes on its vaulted roof. The Prot. Church of St. Lawrence, to the N. of the cathedral, has been restored, and partly rebuilt (1850— 1854) in the Gothic style. The Toicn Hall bears the inscription : '/n diesem Ha use soil finden Schatz die Ehre Gottes und gemeiner Nutz" (The glory of God and the public weal shall find protection in this house). The Literary Museum near the Rathhaus is well supplied with newspapers. ScholVs Cabinet of Reliefs is worthy of a visit; among them is a relief-map of the Sentis, 96 sq. ft. The most imposing building in the town is the large Public Seminary (completed in 1855), at the E. extremity, on the road to Rorschach. One wing contains the Museum of Natural History, and above this the Tovn Library., rich in MSS. of the time of the Reformation. The Art Union (Kunstverein) also holds its sittings here. The Arsenal, the Deaf and Dumb and Orphan Asylums, the Penitentiary , Hospital . and Reformatory may also be visited by those whom leisure and inclination lead to such institutions. Excursions. Trogen., Gais, Appemell, Wetxshad, 8t'e pp. 278, 279. One-horse carr. to these places and back from vSt. Gall 12 fr., an agreeable day's excursion. Diligence and omnibus to Appenzell see p. 276. — 'Freiiden- ber(/, Voglisegg. Frolichitegg, see p. 281. — The Rosenberg with the Kurzen- burg, a Deaf and Dumb Institution (view towards the S. W.) and ascent of the ridge to the inn of '*7. Peter and St. Paul' (2589 'j. fine view. Across the pastures to the Bernegg (inn); view of the Sentis. — Kuvver's rock-cellars at the Freudenbcrg. — Tivoli ; Kurzeek on the road to Voglis- egg., near the convent of Xotkerseck. — Bruggen and the handsome 'bridge over the Sitter (p. 35). by railway in 10 min. Between St. Gall and Rorschach the line descends 900' in a distance of 9 M. In efl'ecting this , great difficulties were en- countered. On leaving St. Gall, the train passes through a long cutting (on the r. the Cantonal School, on the 1. the Cantonal Prison, with its four wings), and enters the wild valley of the SteinacJi, the banks of which are composed of the deposit brought down by the river. As the line intersects this deposit, dams and cuttings succeed one another without intermission. The Lake of Constance is frequently visible almost in its entire length ; Friedrichshafen is a conspicuous object on its N. bank. Stat. St. Fiden. Near stat. Morschwyl the line enters the valley of the Goldach, :r.^ 'U-: ^ * , ""F^ hia^n dii}i^/\ ^^^^^ 4"- !'S^t E, 'f! i^5,77 r to Lindau. RORSCHACH. 17. Route. 6i and crosses this stream by a flve-arched stone bridge, 85' high. The district between this and Rorschach is very fertile. The station is on the 8. side of the town, 10 mln. from the quay, with which, however, it is connected by a branch line. Those who arrive by the branch line are generally required to change carriages at the principal station (p. '282). Eorschach. 'Seehof, on the lake, R.2— 3fr., B. 1, D.3 fr. ; 'H irscb, alsK a iiiiisinn ; Schilf: ■ K ron e or Pos t ; 'GriinerBaum, R.2, B. 1 fr. ; 'Koch's Hotel and Pension, on tlie lake; pension in all about 2-i: fr. weekly, excl. of supper. The wines of Rheinthal , Schaff- haii.'ieii , and Wiuterthur are the best in N. Switzerland. — Telegr. stat. at the harbour. — "Lake Baths on the W. side of the town, 30c. Rorschach, an important-looking town, with 3492 inhab. (101 7 Prot.J, carries on a considerable commerce in grain with Swabia and Bavaria. On Tluirsdays a well-attended corn-market. The Bathing Estah.., '/i ^I- to the ^V. of the town, is well fitted up; it consists of two houses with 40 compartments and a swimming- basin for men (who may also swim out into the lake), and another house with 12 compartments for women. Bath 30 c. incl. towel. Railway to Coire, p. 282. Excursions. Above Rorschach rises the ancient abbey of Marien- lierg, with beautiful cloisters, now iised as a school. The view from the Rorxcliacher Berg, the green and fruitful hill which rises behind the town, embraces the entire Lake of Constance, with the Vorarlberg mountains and the Alps of the Orisons; its summit, the Rossbiihely may be reached in l'J4 hr. from Rorschach. The whole hill -country is intersected by roads, which allord a great variety of pleasant walks. The Castle of St. Anna, or Rorschach, after the noble family of that name became extinct (I44y), came into the possession of the Abbots of St. Gall. The view from the rooms (now tenanted by peasants) is very fine. The path to it turns to the r. below the ilarienberg, and, beyond the bridge, to the 1. ; then by the next turning to the 1., where the path divides among the trees, the hill is ascended. — The JIartinstobel and 3Iottelischh)SS, with the help of the railway, form an agreeable excursion of 3 hrs. ; by the St. Gall railway to slat. «S7. Fideu (see above). Below the station the tra- veller takes the carriage- road t(j Netuiorf (brewery on the 1.), and de- scends by the high-road to the point where the road to Heiden diverges to the r. i'he latter descends to the Martinstobel, the gorge of the Goldac/i, which is spanntHl by a wooden brid;:o, lib' long, 1U2' high, constructed in 14(jy, the oldest bridge of the kind in E. Switzerland. Here at the com- mencement of the lUth cent, the monk Notker composed his 'J/frf/a vita ill niorte .sv/hh/.*', upon seeing a man accidentally killed. Beyond the bridge the road which ascends to the 1., across the debris of a landslip which took place in ISio, should be taken to Cntereggeii (Schatle), and thence the Goldach road descended as far as the Mottelischloss, the chateau on a green eminence to the r. This was formerly the seat of the Barons of Sulzberg, of whom it was purchased by the opulent Motteli of St. Gall, and after passing through various vicissitudes, it has now fallen almost into a ruined condition. A foot-j aih leads direct to the castle. The view from the new platform on the top (gratuity) is one of the finest on the lake. Agreeable walk back to Rorschach through the Witholz., 1 hr. — To Tii- bacli surrounded by fruit-trees, and the Castle of Steiiiach about 1 hr. — ~ Wienachter Eck ., Heiden., see p. 277, li/ieiiieck, T/ialy Weiiibiirg (castle of the Prince of Hidienzollern-Sigmaringen), the ~ Steiiierne 7V.y a fciotpafh. to the 1. in i|4 hr. 'Inn on the top open in summer f)nly. This point may also be reached from St. Margarelhen fp. 283) in 1 hr. At Horn fJij'^ M. N. W., on the road by the lake), there i.'< an extensive Pension and Bath-estab. . on the bank of the lake, R. 1 to 6 fr.. B. 85 c, D. inc. W. 21(2 fr.. A. 40. whey 70, cold bath 45 c. incbiding towels, warm or shower bath 70 c. Pension 25 fr. per week. Visitors are also received at the chateau, to the 1. on the road, a few paces from the Baths. The bath-physician is Dr. Tobler. a well known Oriental traveller. There are unfortunately no shady walks in the vicinity. To Lindaii by water fli/4 hr., fare 48 or 42 kr.), comp p. 20. To the S.E. Bregenz fp. 351) is visible, situated at the foot of picturesque mountains. On entering the harbour of Lindau, the steamboat passes a lighthouse on the N. , and a stone lion on the iS. jetty. Monument of King Max, see below. Lindau {*Bayrisch€r Hof, near the station and the steamboat pier, R. 48, B. 28 kr.. D. 1 fl. 12, A. 24 kr. : *Krone; Deut- sches Hans, at the harbour; Sonne; Raiiiray Restaurant; lake- baths. 8 kr.), terminus of the Bavariaii South-Western Railway (express to Augsburg S^/o- to Munich 7 hrs.), formerly an im- perial town and fortress, and during the middle ages remarkable for its trade, is situated on an island in the Lake of Constance, and connected with the mainland by the new railway-embankment, and a wooden bridge. 1066' long. Lindau is said to have been the site of an ancient Roman fort, of which the venerable tower near the bridge probably formed a part. Monument to King Max n. fd. 1864) at the harbour. Those interested in horti- culture should visit the IJndenhof; admittance gratis on Tuesdays and Fridays, on other days by cards (30 kr. ) procured at the hotels. If the visitor's stay is short, he should walk to the mainland over the railway embankment, turn to the r. along the bank, and return to Lindau by the wooden bridge; this may be done in '/-j hr. From the Heuerbery {^/^ hr.) a beautiful view of the town , the lake, and the Alps is obtained (evening light most favourable). 18. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Ziirich and Wallenstadt. Comp. also Map p. 276. 81i|4 3I. R'a i 1 w a y C United Swiss) by Wallisellen, Rapperschwyl. Wesen, and Sargans. o^li. 6, or 7 hrs. : fares 14 fr. 70, 8 fr. 80 c. 6 fr. Comp. Intro- duction X. The railway does not approach the lake of Zurich till Rapper- schwvl is reached. It is. therefore, far preferable to take the Steamboat to Rapperschwyl in 2i|2hrs.. fare 1 fr. 90. or 1 fr. 20c.; or to Schmerikon, at the upper extremity of the lake, in 81)4 hrs., fare 2 fr. 65 c. or 2 fr. Return-tickets, available for the day of issue, at one fare and a half; landing and embarking in small boats without addi- tional charge. — Railwav-stations both at Rapperschwvl and Schmerikon. The Lake of Zurich (1341'), 25V.2 M. long, and 21/2 M. broad at its widest part (between Stafa and Richterswyl), is fed by the Linth and drained by the Limmat. Its scenery , though with slight pretensions to grandeur, is >carcely equalled in beauty HORGEN. 18. Route. 39 by any other lake. The l)aiik> rise in geiitU' ^JDpes. at the- base of which are meadows and arable land ; above these is a belt of vineyard^ and orchards, and on the K. side forests crown the suuiniits of the hills, here about 2700' high. The two banks of the lake are sometimes not unaptly termed the suburbs of the town of Zurich, so thickly are they sprinkled for a long distance with houses, villages, and large manufactories. In the b-ickground the snow-clad Alps fsee p. '21^) bound the landscape, adding to its pastoral loveliness a little of their imposing majesty. The Steamhnat, soon after starting, passes (on the l.) A'eu- ini'inMer (1453'), a suburb of Ziirich, with its picturesque church oil the hill. It now directs its course towards the W. bank, to FnndUkon (except for the two routes along the E. bank), in the parish of Kileliherf/ , which stands above it, on the hills whi<'h bound the bank. On the r. is Wollhhofen , on the 1. Zollikon ()>. 31), on the hill, with its pointed steeple. The boat now steams along the S. bank: above Hil-^chlilcon the white buildings of A7r/e?/)«ri (beautiful view): opposite, on the r. bank, Kvsnac.ht (*Sonne). not to be confounded with the village of that nanu- on the Lake of Lucerne (p. 4-8). The next place on the X. bank is FMenbnch ; on the 8.. Thalwyl (Krone, on the lake: *Adler}. charmingly situated. P.eautiful *view of the lake from the neighbourhood of the church, or >till better from the gallery of the tower; one of the most delightful of the short excursions I'rom Ziirich. Between Thalwyl Sind Herrliberg, the next village on the N. bank, is the deepest part of the lake (470'). Ober- rieden is the next place on the S. bank; the boat then stops at Horgen (1304') ('■^Mekrhof, on the lake, pleasasit garden. T;. 1'.,. P>. 1. L. and A. 1 fr. . Pension 5—6 fr. ; Schwnn ; Lihre; Pension Krdu.ss), visible from Ziirich. and presenting all the appearance of a town. .Most of its handsome and substan- tially built houses belong to the proprietors of the silk manu- factories. Pop. 5199 (3'2i Rom. Cath.). The boats which ply on the N. and S. banks of the lake meet at this place . which is convenient for those who wish to change the direction of their journey. Few travellers make any stay here, although the little town well deserves a visit, but almost all who proceed to the Rigi or to Lucerne by the lake-route (see R. 19) pass this way. Pleasant walk to the Sanitary estab. of Bokken (pension 5 fr.), commanding a line view, and to the Zimmerberg (p. 46). The picturesque and wooded peninsula of Au projects into the lake on the 8. bank (*Leuthold's Hotel, 150 ft. above the lake, pleasant view of the lake and E. Alps, pension 5 fr.). Opposite, on the N. bank, is the considerable village of Meilen (Lowe; Sonne); next Ohermeilen; then L'etikon and Mdnnedorf. Behind the M.) at the base of the Grosse Auberg (5584'), and HiDter-Wiiggithal (4 Jl.), beyond which (3|4 M.) is a new inn and bath-estab. Hence to the Kltinthal a guide should be taken. From the bridge the path ascends to the r. to (2ij2 hrs.) the culminatini; point of the Kavvenegg (fjlol'), the pass between the Waggithal and Khuithal. Several chalets are then passed, and the whey- cure establishment of liichisau becomes visible far below. The path now descends the mountain-slope to the r. From Richisau to Glarus see pp. 304, 30a. The Railway Route from Ziirich to Rapperschwyl is less at- tractive than that by steamboat, but thence to Coire it passes through most beautiful scenery. From Ziirich to WalliseLlen see p. 34. Here the Coire railway diverges to the S.E. from the line to AVinterthur itc. ; travellers from Ziirich, however, do not change carriages at Wallisellen. All the trains convey goods as well as passengers, and long delays often take place at Rap- perschwyl, Wesen, and Sargans, while the trucks are being loaded or unloaded. The refreshment-rooms at the stations are gener- ally indillerent. On leaving Wallisellen the line traverses a flat district, not far from the r. bank of the Glatt, which flows from the Greifensee (33/^ M. long. 1 M. wide, not visible from the line). Stat. Duhendorf, Schwerzenbach, and Niinikon. Then Stat. Uster; on the r. is the churcli with its pointed tower, and the ancient castle which serves as court of justice, jail, and inn ; the tower affords a survey of the lake of Greifen, and a prospect of the Alps. In the vicinity of Uster are several large cotton- mills, driven by the .4a, a brook near the railway. Next stat. Aathal:, the neighbouring Lake of Pfiiffikon (1778') is not vis- ible from the railway ; the Alps of Glarus and Schwyz remain 42 Route 18. rZNACH. From Zurich almost c(iii>tantly in sight in thf background to the S. Between Stat. Wetzikon (diligence to Hinwyl at the N.W. foot of the Bachtel. see below, twice daily in 1/2 hr. , fare 45 cl and Bu- hikon the line attains its highest level, and then makes a rapid descent. To the 1. the Bachtel. with the inn upon its summit. Next Stat. RiW. The Bachtel (3671') (Inn, tolerable), a hill to the N.E. of Riiti. coinmand.s a pleasing: view to the X.W. over the district of Usfer sprinkled with manu- factories, the I-Hkes of Oreifen and Pfaffikon. N.W. the Lake of Ziirich from Wadenswyl to the T.inth Canal, the valley of the Linth as far as the hrids:e of Mollis, and the Alps from the Sentis to the Bernese Oberland. Consult Ke/ler'x Panoraiiia, to be seen at the inn. Diligence twice a dav in 1 hr. from Riiti to Wald, at the S.E. foot of the Bachtel. whence the summit may be ea.s^ily attained in li|2 br. As the pii'turesque village of Jonen ('which adjoins Kapper- schwyl) is approached , an extensive view- to the 1. of the Alps of Schwyz . with the Miirtschenstock . Schanisberg. Speer, and finally the Sentis. unfolds itself. Rapperschwyl , see p. 40. The stat. on the lake near the long briilgp and steamboat-pier, is a terminus, from which the train backs out on its departure: as far as Wesen a seat on the r. should be ^elected. The line crosses the Jonen-Fluss, passes the convent of Wurmspach on the r. . and approaches the bank of the Lake of Ziirich before reaching stat. BolUrKjen. Extensive quarries of sandstone near the lake. Opposite, on the r. , are the mountains of Schwyz, on the lake the Baths of Nuolen and Lachen (see p. 41). The Miirtschenstock towers above the wooded heights near the lake (Untere Buchberg, see below), and on the r. are the Frohnalpstock and the Schild. near Glarus. As far as Schmerikon fp. 41. stat. near the lake) the line runs close by the lake . and on reaching its upper extremity enters the wide valley throuf Ziirich •, or rather that the Afaag, an outlet of the Lake of Wallenstadt. which formerly flowed into the Linth, should also be converted into a canal. Under Escber's direction the works were commenced in the same vear. but not completed until 1822. The total cost was l..500.(XX) fr.. but the [.roposed object has been perfectly attained; the land is once more fruitful, and supports a con- siderable jiopulation. The Governnitut conferretl on Escher and his de- scendants the title of L'.'r pretension in tlie village and near the banks of the lake), lies in a sheltered situation at the "\V. extremity of tlie Lake of Wallenstadt, and by the luxuriance of its vegetation recals the S. valleys of the Alps. The Speer (6417') is usually ascended from Wesen (a rough walk of 4 brs.). .\ chalet (refreshm.) is reached in 23,j hrs., a .second 'I2 hr. farther. The view is magnificent, especially towards the E. and X.E. From the Speer in 2'),; hrs. to Xe^.^lau (p. 291). and thence by Amnion (sec below) to Stein in the Toggenburg (6 hrs.). with a succession of beautiful views. The Lake of Wallenstadt (or WalUn-see) (1897'). 1'2 M. long, 3 M. widt'. and 4(lO — i)iH)' deep, is scarcely inferior to the Lake of Lucerne in mountainous grandeur. The N. bank is composed of almost perpendicular barren crags and precipices from '2000 to 8000' hiiih ; on the N.E. the bare peaks of the Sieben Chiir- prsten (Leistkomm 6890'. Selun 7'241', Frumud 7484', Bvisi 7477', /.uatoll 783(V. Scheihenftnll 7o8S', Hinternick 7o'23' ). tower above the water. The Jhiyerhach, 1300'. the f^crenhtich, 1650' (1600' 44 Route 18. MUHG. From Zurich above whirli lies the village of Amnion and Amden) ^ and other cataracts precipitate themselves over the cliffs. These, however, generally dry up towards the end of summer. One solitary village, Quinten^ has found a nook for itself on the N. bank. On the S. bank (of which the line unfortunately affords no general view) the rocks are so precipitous, as to render nine tunnels necessary. A tolerable footpath runs along this bank of the lake, occasionally parallel with the railway, the first portion of which (_to Miihlethal, before reaching stat. Miihlehorn, see be- low") is the worst. At the mouth of several of the little torrents which descend from the Murtschenstock (8012') , small hamlets have established themselves (see below). On the Murtschenstock and on the borders of the lake of Murg the 'Alpine cedar' (pinus cembra, a rare description of fir) is sometimes met with. — The names of the hamlets Primsch (prima) , Gunz (secunda) , Terzen ('2172'), Quarten (1817'), and the above-mentioned Quinten , as well as the designation of the whole district, Gaster (Castra Rhuetiea) , recal the ancient cantonments of the cohorts of a lloman legion. After leaving stat. Wesen the train crosses the Linth Canal by an iron bridge. The line to Glarns diverges to the r. , see II. 72. The Coire line traverses the broad plain , crosses the E.icher Canal (p. 43) near its issue from the Lake of N^allen- btadt, and then enters a tunnel with apertures in the 1. side, towards the lake. As the train emerges from this tunnel, the Bayerbach waterfall is seen on the opposite bank of the lake, and the village of Amnion on the height above. Beyond it are the falls of the Serenhach, which after rain have a considerable volume. Four more tunnels now follow in rapid succession (the first of these is also pierced with apertures on the lake side) ; in the intervals , magnificent views of the lake , the waterfalls, and the mountains on the 1. Stat. Wi}alQh.orQ. [Tellsplatte ; Seegarten, pleasant excursion by boat (^2 fr.) across the lake to the waterfalls (see above) und thence to Wesen]. To the r. above the valley, the Murtschenstock is visible. From Miihleborn to Mollis, an interesting walk of 3 lirs. 3 good road over the Keremer Berg, by (i hr.) Obstalden (2'234') (; Hirsch, Stern), nearly the highest point of the route. The view embraces the entire Lake of WaUenstadt, the mountains of the Seezthal, the valley of the Linth Canal as far as the Lake of Zurich, bounded on the 1. by the Hirzli (53S7'), and the valleys of Glarus. with the Wiggis and Glarnisc'h. From the height near 3Iollis a glimpse of the snowfields of the Tiidi. Mollis, see p. 29'3. After two more tunnels, stat. Murg (Rossli; Schiffli), on the lake, at the mouth of the valley of the Murg. is reached. The best view of the lake is obtained hence; those who desire to spend some hours on its banks, are recommended to alight here. The Murgthal and the three Murgseen (Sijj hrs. from Murg) are well worthy of a visit. The path up the valley artbrds a succession of tine views. Picturesque waterfall where the brook issues from the second lake. Instead of returning to Murg, the pedestrian may prefer to cross the to Coire. WALLEN.STAUT. l^. Route. 15 Munjulp and descend t.. Emji or Malt in the .Svni/iliul (p. 3C>0|. 0-7 Iii>. walk from 3Iiiig. rJeyond Murja; another tuiinol. Opposite, to the 1.. tower the liighest peaks of the Churtirsteii (p. 43). Station Unterterzen; tlie village to tlie r. among the meadows, with the red-rapped tower, is Qnarten. Then another tunnel. The E. end of the lake is now reached, and the bottom of the level valley crossed by a bridge over the Seez. Wallenstadt (1394') (Adler, on the lake, R. li|2, B. 1, I)on.sipn 5 tV. : 11 i r s c h , in the town ; Z ii m C h u r f i rs te n , at the station), a small town near the E. bank of the lake. Looking back on the 1. side, a view of the entire lake to its W. extremity near Wesen. as well as of the horns of the Miirt&chenstock above the mountains on its S. bank, is obtained. Excursion (with guide) from Wallenstadt in '2 hrs. by a rugged path throiigh wood to the Alp Loses, thence nearly level to Alp Bills and (3(, hr.j Tsrhingtlalp (milk): then past the slopes of the Churfirsten lo (I hr.) Alp Sc/in'eni'ii, and back in IMs hr. to Wallenstadt. F r o m W a 1 1 e n .s t a dT to W i 1 d h a u s in the Toggenburg (() hrs., p. "291) a footpath with beautiful views traverses the J/internick (p. 43), suitable, however, only for persons with steady heads, attended by a guide. The line now intersects the beautiful valley of the Seez; on the r.. on a projecting crag, stand the ruins of Graphing (Grappa lonya), or Lang en stein, hereditary castle of the Tschudi of Gla- rus ; opposite, to the 1. above Barschis , on a height near stat. Flums, is the Church of St. Georgen (il'iS'), to which pilgrint- ages are made. Near stat. Mels [*Krone) the Seez flows out of the Weisstannen-Thal., which here opens towards the S.W. Frt) m:\Ie Is through the W e i s s t a n u e n - Th a 1 and the K a 1- feuser-Thal to V a 1 1 i s. In 3 hrs. to Wei.^staiuieii (3271') (Oamsli). Hence through the valley which diverges towards the S., by the chalets of tlio Alp i'liler Lartiua (4280') and the Alp Val Tiisrii in 4 hrs". to the highest point of the pass, whence a fine view of the huge Sardona glacier, the Trin.serhorn. the Ringelkojif. etc. is obtained. From this to the Tamina bridge, near .St. Martin (4433'), in 2 hrs., and thence to l'«7//.s- in 2 hrs. more. A guide is necessarv for the passage from the Weisstannen to the Kalfeuser-Thal. At stat. Sargans (Hotel Thoma. U. 1 — '2, D. '2'/.. fr. : liossli and Loire in the town) the line reaches the valley of the Rhine, and the line from Rorschach to Coire. The station is at a con- siderable distance from the town; carriages sometimes changed here. This little town, rebuilt since 1811 when it was destroyed by tire, is picturesquely situated on an eminence ( 1591') at the mouth of the valley between the basins of the Rhine and the Lake of Wallen^tadt. with a castle frowning above it. The Course of the Rhine may possibly one day change, and dow towards the W. through the Lakes of Wallenstadt and Zurich. .\n em- bankment 20' high and scarcely 2(X) paces wide, contines it to its present X. direction, but its bed is rising every year and the neighbouring district is being graduallv converted into a vast swamp. Historians, on the authority of certain old documents, and geologists, arguing from the similarity of the deposits in the valleys of the Seez and the Rhine, are of opinion that the latter river, or at least an arm of it. formerlv flowed into the Lake of Wallenstadt. It must, however, be added that even the disastrous inun- 46 Haute 19. SIHLBRUCKK. dation of 18GS apiieavs to havf caused no appreiiensinns of the possibility of the Rliine breaking through the embankment. Railway from Sargaiis to Coire by Ragntz see R. 68. 19. From Ziirich to the Rigi and Lucerne by Horgen, Zug, Immensee, and Kiisnacht. Lake of Zug. Co nip. Mapi^ pp. 38, 6G. From Ziiricli to Zug and Lucerne by Railway .^ee R. 14. Steamboat from Ziirich \o Horgen in lij-jhr. ^ Post-omnibus from Horgen to Zug in '2^1^ hrs. •, Steamboat from Zug to Immensee in 40 m., to Arth in i^\i \\v.\ Post-omnibus from Immensee to Kiisnacht in 20 min.; Steamboat from Kiisnacht to Lucerne in 3j^ lu-. — Fare 1st cl. from Ziirich to Arth 5 fr. 20 c. , from Zurich to Lucerne 6 fr. 50 c. Xo 2nd cl. through-tickets issued. The boat arriving at Lucerne at 11. 35 corresponds with the depar- tures for Interlaken by Alpnach-Gestad and Brienz (Interlaken, arr. 8. p. m.): and the traveller leaving Interlaken at 6 a. m. arrives in time for the Ixiat which leaves Lucerne at 2 p. m. •, see R. 25. — This is the most interest ing route between Ziirich and Lucerne, although less expeditious than the railway (R. 14j. • The traveller bound for the Rigi should avail himself of the tirst steamboat from Ziirich. The second is generally crowded, and moreover arrives so late that the ascent of the mountain is divested of much of its enjoyment. Breakfast may be taken on board, or at the Jleyerhof at Hor- gen, where refreshments are provided. In the height of the season, it may be well to telegraph from Horgen (50 c.) for a room at the hotel on the Kulm. At Arth (10. 40 a. m.) a substantial meal can be leisurely enjoyed, and the journey continued (at a pace, if the traveller is prudent, of not more than 60 steps her minute), whilst halts may be made at discretion at the different inns on the route (Unteres Diichli, Oberes Dachli, Klosterli, StatTelj. By these means the ascent of the Rigi is rendered a most de- lightful walk , and attended by no immoderate fatigue (railway see p. 56). Luggage forwarded poste-restante for the journey to the St. Gott- liard, should be addressed to the principal otYice at Altorf, and not to Fliielen. As far as Horgen (1394') (one-horse carriage to Zug 10, with 2 horses 16, with 3 horses 21 fr.), see p. 39. The road ascends the mountain , and at the direction-post (S'/o M.) joins the road from Wadenswyl. Several line views are obtained of the lake, the Sentis, the Speer, the Churflrsten, and the S.E. chain of the Alps. At the summit (2 M.J near Hirzel ^ is the inn Zum Morgenthal (2244'). The road then gradually descends into the valley of the Sihl, which separates the Cantons of Ziirich and Zug. The Sihlbriicke (1774') (2 M.), a handsome covered bridge , has replaced one destroyed in 1847 , during the war of the Separate League. On this side of the bridge (r. bank) is the * Krone Inn ( Winterthur wine good). Pedestrians should choose the old road by tlie Horger Egg (2198') (the commencement of which is not easily found ; enquiry should be made at Horgen) which shortens the way by {^\i ]M., and affords far more beaii- tiful views. Xear Wydenbach , a little way from the road , to the r. on the Zimmerherg (2536 ft.), a magnificent coup d"(jeil is obtained of the lake of Ziirich, the sombre valley of the Sihl, the Lake of Zug, and the Alps ; the JMythen, the Rigi, and Pilatus are especially conspicuous. Xear the Sihlbriicke the old road rejoins the new. The road next traverses a fertile plain, and crosses (272 M.) 7Aii. 19. Route. 4/ the Lorze. On its banks (to the 1.) is an extensive cotton-manu- factory with its colony of workmen. The Kigi an2 at the battle of Arbedo (p. 83j. At the S. ex- tremity of the town is the Hospital, erected in 1854. — Dili- gence from Zug, by Eyeri , to Sattel on the Schwy/. and Ein- siedeln road (p. 302), in 2^/4 hrs., fare 2 fr. ; to Arth in 1 hr. 20 min., fare 1 fr. 80 c. On the W. slope of the Zuger Beir/, 4'|2 M. from Zug are the sani- tary estab. of ' Felsenegy (3222') and ' Hchoiifels ., recommended as resting- places (pensifm 4 — 6 fr.), both of which may be reached by carriage, and alTord a magnilicent view towards the W. From the Ilochicac/tt, 295' higher, which formsj the summit of the Zuger Berg, a prospect towards the E. is also o])tained , embracing the Lake of Egeri and Mor- garten (p. 3(11). The Lake of Zug (1368'), 9 M. long, 3 .\r. wide, and 1300' deep, is very picturesque; its banks, richly wooded, rise gently to a moderate height; to the S. alone is seen, rising precipitously above the azure waters of the lake, the Rigi , here visible from base to summit. The broader N. end of the lake is skirted by the railway from Zug to Lucerne (p. 32). Soon after the departure of the steamer from Zug , Pilatus appears on the S.W., and then to tlie S.E. the Hoss-Stock and the Erohnalp. On the E. bank are the villages of Oberweil, Cntersivell ., and Eietenegy; to the N.W. the steeple of Chum (p. 33) glitters across the plain. The boat sometimes halts at a saw-mill on the E. bank; it then directs its course to the other side, passing an elevated wooded peninsuhi which projects boldly into the lake on the western side, to Imniensee (*H6teL Riyi, K. I'/oj i^- A' Pension 31/2 to 5 fr.), beautifully situated at the extreme N. base of the Rigi. Travellers to Lucerne disembark here, see below. Ascent of the Kigi, see p. 62. The steamer passes the distant villages of Walchwyl and St. Adriaji on the E. bank, above which rise< the Ron.fhery 48 Route I'J. KUSNACHT. (see p. 54). whose slopes are covered on this side with forests and chalets. As Arth is approached, one of the snmmits of the Mythen, near Schwyz fp. 55). is visible behind the Rossberg. Arth (1364') (*Adler; Hotel clu Rigi; Seldussel) is sit\iated at the S. extremity of the lake, between the Rigi and the Ross- berg, but not exposed to the land-slips of the latter , the strata of which cause them to take another direction. The Church, erected in 1677, possesses a silver cup and goblet captured at the battle of Grandson in 1476 (p. 174). The churchyard resem- bles that at Baar (p. 47). Pedestrians are recommended to ascend the Rigi from Arth (p. 59j ; those who prefer the route from Goldaii (p. 61), should proceed thither hy the omnibus which is in attendance at tlie steamboat pier (20 rain., fare 30 c). These two patlis unite near the 'Unteres Dachli' (p. 59). From Arth to Goldau, see p. 54. Diligence from Artli to Bruniien by 8chwijz twice daily, on the arrival of the steamer, in 2 hrs.; fare 2 fr. 40 c, see p. 54. This conveyance corresponds with the boat for Fliielen, and at Fliielen with the diligence which crosses the St. Gotthard (R. 23). Travellers to Lucerne find at Immensee (see above) an omnibus ready to start for Kiisnacht (20 min.) on the arrival of the steamboat. The road ascends gradually on leaving Immen- see ; on reaching the highest ground, near the Inn Zur Eiche, a road to the 1. diverges to Arth. In the descent, at the opening of the 'Hohle Gasse' or 'chemin creux' (see Schiller's Tell), 1 M. from Immensee, and 1^2 ^'^- trom Kiisnacht, stands Tell's Chapel (1482'), ornamented with frescoes representing the death of Gessler, with a satirical inscription. (The broad path opposite leads to the Rigi, see p. 61.) The 'Hohle Gasse' (hollow lane) has been gradually filled up by the construction of the new road , but in portions where the overhanging trees form a leafy roof, its appellation is not inappropriate. Gessler s Burg was destroyed in 1308; all that remains of it is a fragment of wall on a wooded hill in the neighbourhood, 3/^ m. from Kiisnacht. Kiisnacht (1433') C^Seehof, R. IV2, !>• '^, B. 1 fr.; *8chu'arzer Adler) , situated at the N. extremity of the great N.E. arm of the lake of Lucerne, is also at the foot of the Rigi (ascent hence in 31/2 lirs-, p. 61). Guides and horses, see p. 57. The Steamboat , on leaving Kiisnacht, skirts the beauti- ful, wooded slopes of the Rigi, and passes Greppen (1450', whence a new path ascends the Rigi, see p. 62). It then turns to the r. to the village of Meggen ('^Pension Gottlieben, beautifully situated 1/2 ^^- t^om the lake, suitable for a prolonged stay, pension 5 — 6 fr., carr. to Lucerne 3 fr.). Opposite the traveller rise the frowning peaks of Pilatus. To the 1. the snowy Urner and Engelberger Alps (comp. p. 50) soon appear. Farther on, as the central poiiit of the cross formed by the four arms of the lake is approached, LUCERNE. l>0. Route. 19 the views in every direction become more imposing. To tlie r., on a gentle elevation , is seen the tower of Neu-Habsburg (the supposed scene of the event described in Schiller's ballad 'The Count of Ilapsburg'), the ancient castle of the imperial family of that name, and frequently occupied by Rudolph, who was afterwards emperor. As soon as the steamboat lias rounded the little (r.) Isle of Altstad and the promontory of Meggenhorn (p. 69), Lucerne, situated at the extremity of the N.W. bay of the lake, suddenly appears. 20. Lucerne and Pilatus. Coinp. Map p. 6' 6". Hotels. Schweizerhof (PI. a), -Luzerner Hof (PI. b), 'Hotel National lopened in 1870), all three situated on the quay, R. 2 fr. and upwards, L. 1 fr., B. I'la fr., 1). at Vl^\-z o'clock 3 fr., at 4 o'clock 4»(? fr., A. 1 fr. •, 'Engli&cher Hot' (PI. c); 'Schwan fPl. d), R. 2, L. and A. I'l.j fr. ; ■ Hotel du Rigi (PI. e). on the ground-tloor a Cafe'; these hotels are all on the lake, near the quay. 'Wage (PI. f J more moderate ; 'Hotel du Lac (PI. g), on the 1. bank "of the Reuss, R. 2— 3, B. HIj, D. 3, L. and A. I'iifr. : Hotel du St. Gotthard, with restaurant, R. lij-i— 2«l2. B. I, D. 3, A. ^[iiv.\ the two last near the station: Hotel et Pension Beau- rivage (PI. d) , recently enlarged, prettily situated on the lake. — The daily intlux of travellers is sf) great that the solitary tourist frequently re- ceives but little attention in the 1st , or even the 2nd class hotels. The Adler (PI. h), R. 1 fr. , B. 1 fr., A Ms fi'-, and the RoVsli (PI. i), newly titled up, are therefore mentioned as respectable, though unpretending. — •Hotel de la Poste (PL k); H o t el des Alpes (Pl.n), 31 oehren , Hirsch, Krone, Kreuz, and Wilder Mann, all of humble pretensir)ns. Pensions (see Plan; almost all comfortable and well conducted). Worley, in the town, by the Peterscapelle: Kaufmann; Morell; Fa Her; Dommann; Suter; Tivoli (with restaurant and baths); Belvedere; farther on, Seeburg. All these are on the road to Kiis- nacht. close to the lake. Then W a 1 d i s , outside the Waggis gate ; Chalet du Lion, in a shady situation, above the Lion Monument; Fitzger. on the Felsberg ; Ranch, E. of the Hofkirche; adjoining it, Bellevue and Xew S c h weiz erhaus. Pension Wallis on the Giitscli; Victo- ria and Gibraltar on the hill of Gibraltar (p. 50). Still higher, I hr. from Lucerne (beginning of route see PL a, 3). Pension Sonnenberg, on the hill of that name, with pleasant grounds and a fine view. — Pen- sion Bliittler in the Rozloch (p. 88) on the \V. arm of the lake (I hr. by steamboat, three times daily). Charges at all these from 6 to 8 fr. a day. Cafes and Restaurants. Cafe du Lac, by the Protest, church, ices 80 c. ; Hotel des Alpes, opp. steamboat -quay; '^Freienhof (l)eer) by the theatre, near the Capellbriicke, on the 1. bank of the Reuss ; Loeweu- garten, near the Lion Monument; St. Gotthard, near tlie station. Baths in the river, below the town, with swimminc-basin, and in the lake, below the Stiftskirche (bath 30 c). Diorama at the WaL'gis Gate (p. 51). Railway Station to the E. (d' the Capellbriicke on the 1. bank of the lake. The steamboaLs to Waggis., Briinnen, and Fliitlen generally stop at the railway-slation after their departure from the quay near tlie hotels (see Plan), those coming from Fluelen and Waggis stop first at the stat., and then at the ([uay. Post and Telegraph Offices on the 1. bank of the Reuss, by the Jesuiten- kirche. The Branch Office adjoining the Engl. Hof, opp. the steamboat- pier is also a goods-agency and exchange office. Steamboats see p. 66. Rowing-boats, according to tarift', 75 c. per hr.; for each boatman B^ajDEKER, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 4 50 Roule 2(h l(\Vl^nSK. rapeUhrHrke. 75 c. : to Wiiii^ifi or .S t a ii s >* t a d w itii iwo men 4', 2 fr.. o men fr.. 4 men 7'|2 fr. ; Brunnen with 3 men 12 Jr.. with 4 men 15 fr.. Ac Heyond the loveliness of its situation, Thorwaldsen's celebrated monu- ment (p. 51j, and the Arsenal (p. o'i). there is little in Lucerne to induce a prolonged stay. The following walks are recommended: W. to the ■'(iiitsch (Pension Wallis). from the Bale Gate a steep ascent of i|4 hr.. or to Gihraltar (with new Pension): S. by the avenue to Kriens: X. to Allenwinden. i|4 hr. from the quay-, but above all to the 'Drei Linden (with a mountain - indicator) , 3^^ 31. to the K. of the town, not far from the Capuchin 3Ionastery on the We semi in (the library of which contains some old 3ISS. and early inpressions), commanding a line view of Lucerne, its environs, and the distant mountain chain, in the centre the snow-capped Titlis. and in the extreme distance to the r. the Kinster-Aar- horn and the Schrfckhtirner. English Church Service during the summer months. Lucerne (1437'j. the capital of the canton, popul. 14,L)'24 (1291 Prot.), is situated on the Reuss where it emerges from the lake. The Avell-preserved walls and watch-towers, erected in 1385, which enclose the town, give it an imposing appearance. The amphitheatrical form of its situation on the lake , between the Rigi and Pilatus, facing the snow-clad Urner and P'.ngel- berger Alps, invests it with a peculiar charm. The clear, emerald-green Reuss issues from the lake with the impetuosity of a mountain-torrent. Its banks are connected by four bridges, of which the highest, at the extremity of the lake, a broad new stone bridge, leads immediately from the railway-station to the N. bank. The second, the Capellbrucke, crosses the stream in an oblique direction. It is furnished with a roof, decorated with 154 paintings, representing scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, the patron saints of Lucerne , and events from Swiss history. Adjoining the bridge in the river stands the picturesque old Wasserthui-m, in which the admirably arranged ArcJnoes of the town are pre- served. According to a tradition, this building was formerly used as a lighthouse (lucerna)^ from which the name Lucerne is supposed to be derived. St. Peter's Chapel (_P1. 11), at the N. end of the bridge, possesses four modern *Altar-piece6 by Paul Deschwanden. The third bridge, the Reussbrucke, is uncovered, ami constructed in a more modern style. The fourth , the Muhlen- or Spreuerbrucke, is, like the first, protected by a roof, adorned with representations of the 'Dance of Death'. The Schweizerhof-Quay , with its handsome hotels and avenue of chestnuts, now occupies what was once an arm of the lake (filled up in 1852); the stone indicator on the parapet cannot be implicitly relied upon. View. To the 1. the imposing Rigi Group; the highest point to the 1. is the Kulm with its spacious hotel; on the ridge between the Kulm and the Rothstock is the Staftel Inn-, farther to the r. the Schili, the Dosseii, and the isolated Filznauer Stock. To the 1. of the Kigi-group, above the hills by the lake, rises the peak of the Rostiberg ; to the r. of the Fitznauer Stock iu the distance are seen the singulai-ly indented peaks of the Rox!^- Stork Lion. LICKKNK. -JO. Uoule. r>J chain; tlaii lli| the latter, tower the snowy Kngelberg Alps, the last and highest to the r. heing the Titlis; t'anher to the r. the Stanserhorn, the mountains oi Kerns and iSarhscln, and to the extreme r. Pilatus. The Protestant Church (PI. lOj. in the immediate vicinity of the Scliweizerhof. is ;i Gothic edirtce, completed in 18(il. On a slight eminence at the E. extremity of the quay stands the *Hof- or Stifts-Kirche (}'l. 8j, with its two slender towers, erected in 1506. This church possesses a celebrated organ (^performance daily, except .Saturdays and the eves of festivals, ' from G'/i to 77-2 P- m., 1 fr.J, fine pulpit, carved stalls, some stained-glass windows, and two handsome side altars with reliefs in carved wood, one of which dates from the 15th cent., and represents the death of the Virgin. The Vhurchyard contains some fine monuments. Frescoes in the 8.W. arcades by Deschwanden. Not far from this church (street to the 1. in a N. directionj, outside the (N.E.j Waggis Gate, 5 min. walk from the 8chwei- zerhof, is the celebrated *Lion of Lucerne (^Pl. 14j, erected in liS'21 to the memory of '2() officers and about 760 soldiers of the .Swiss guard, who were cruelly massacred in the defence of the Tuileries, Aug. 10th, 179'2. The dying lion (45' in length) reclines in a grotto, its body transfixed by a broken lance, its paw sheltering the Bourbon lily ; it is hewn out of the natural sandstone rock after a model (exhibited in the adjoining house ) by the celebrated Danish sculptor Thorwaldsen. The inscription runs thus: IJeLcetiorum fidei ac virtuti. Die 10 Aug.., 2 et 3 Sept. 179'J. Haec sunt nornina eorum, qui ne sacramenti fidem fallerent, forlissiine puynantes ceciderunt. Duces XXVI. Solerti amicoruin cum cUidi superfuerunt Duces XVJ. The rock which bears the inscription and names of the officers has unfortunately suffered from the infiuence of the weather; it is overhung with ivy and other creepers. A spring which flows from the summit of the rock forms a dark pool at the base, surrounded by maples and pines. This work is extremely impressive, and aftords a proof that in true art the simplest idea carried out by a master-haiul never fails in its effect. The neighbouring Chapel (inscription : Jnvictis Pax)., contains the escutcheons of the deceased officers. Meyer's Diorama (PI. 15; adm. li/o fr.) at the Waggis Gate, contains panoramas from the Higikulm and Pilatus, exhibited in various lights. The foreground is in relief. Stauffer's Museum (PI. '25) near the Lion (adm. 1 fr.) con- tains about 600 specimens of stuffed Alpine animals in groups. The large Relief (PI. '20; adm. 1 fr.), in a building adjoining the Cafe du Lac, by the Prot. Churcli, represents ancient Switzerlantl with l>ucerne in the centre, on a scale of 5 inches to the mile. 52 Route 20. LUCERNE. The *Arsenal (PI. 30), near the Miihleii-bridge, on the 1. bank of the Reuss, is one of the most important in Switzerland (fee 50 c. to 1 fr.). On the Ground Floor are cannons with their equipments : from the ceiling is suspended a long Tiirkish banner, captured at Tunis in 1640 by a knight of the ]Haltese order. The two small Turkish flags near it were taken by soldiers of Lucerne in the battle of Lepanto (1571). The First Floor contains weapons for the cantonal militia. The stained-glass win- dows (16()6) represent the armorial bearings of the 13 cantons. At the dfior of the Fpper Story stands an automaton, which bows its head as the visitor approaches. The Cliurcli of the Jesuits (PL 9), near the Post-office, is a good specimen of the style peculiar to this order. In the second chapel to the r. is an altar-piece, representing St. Niko- laus von der Fliie (p. 103). behind which is preserved the robe of the saint. The Town Hall (PL 1) possesses some beautiful carved work (executed in 1605 by a native of Breslau). and a series of portraits of the magistrates of the town. The tower is adorned with a fresco representing the death of the bailiff Gundol- fingen at the Battle of Sempach. The Fountain in the Wein- markt (PL 14) dates from 1481. Filatus. Pilatus is ascended from Hergisiciil or from Alpnach. Steamboat to Alpnach-Gestad in 11,2 hr., fare 2 fr. (does not touch at Hergiswyl). Blcittlers small screw-steamers ply several times daily between Lucerne, Hergiswyl, and the Eozloch in 1 — IIJ4 hr.. fare I fr. Descrii ti(m of tlie trip. p. 88. From Hergiswyl to the Hotel Klimsenliorn .S'j-j hrs.(down in 1^\-> hrs.), whence the Klimsenhorn may be ascended in 10 min.. the Tomlishorn in 34 hr., and the Esel also in 3 , ]iv. From Alpnach (p. 89) the bridle-path a.scending to the Bellevue Hotel (4 hrs., down in 3 hrs.) cannot be mistaken. Direction-posts are placed at doubtful points. — The path from Herrjiswyl is shaded in the afternoon., that from Aljynadi in the forenoon. The former is recommended for the ascent; the latter for the descent, as it altbrds a succession of fine views. Porters from Hergiswyl 3 fr. ; Horse 10 fr. ; C/iaise-a-porteurs 20 fr. ; from Alpnach same charges. Guides on both routes unnecessary. Hotels. 'Klimsenhorn, at the foot of the peak of that name, R. 2, B. 1. D. 2, Pension 6 fr.. good beer; *Bellevue cm the ridge between Oberhanpt and Esel, with uninterrupted view towards the E., R. 2, L. ij-j, A. 1 J. S. 3, B. li|2 fr. *Pilatus , the lofty mountain to the S.W. of Lucerne, rises in a rugged and imposing mass, almost isolated from the sur- rotniding heights. The W. and N. portions belong to the Canton of Lucerne, the E. and S. to Unterwalden. The lower slopes are clothed with beautiful meadows and forests, whilst the upper portions consist of rugged cliffs and precipices, whence its ancient name Fractus Mons (broken mountain) is derived. The names 'Fracmont', 'Frakmund', have in later times been occasionally applied to it, and the name Pilatus (mons pileatus, the capped mountain) did not become general till the close of the last century. The names of the separate peaks from W. to E. are the Mittagyiipfi or Gnopfistein (6299'), the Rothe-Totzen (6893'), PILATUS. -20. Route. 53 the Widderfeld (6747', the most barren of the summits), the TomLisUorn ((399?'), the Oemsmallli (_()4;-Jo'), to the 8. the Matt- horn ( 714(5'), then the Slieyli-Eyg (1)705'), to the N. the Kiimsen- liorn (6555' au isolated pealij , the Oberhaupt (7290'J and the Eiei (i)y(3'2', formerly probably EzeL , and sacred to the German god of thiinderj. Pilatus, formerly one of the best-known of the Swiss mountains, had for many years been superseded by the Rigi , but recently it has again become one of the most fre- ([uented of the Swiss heights. Ascent. From HergiswyL (_*Rosslij, a village at the E. base of Pilatus, the bridle-path constructed by M. Blattler of Rozloch, (p. 88) is extremely easy and cannot be mistaken. The path, the ttrst part of which is the most fatiguing, ascending to the 1. by the church, tirst traverses orchards and meadows, then wood (after I'/i hr., a small inn), and finally ascends on the barren N. side of the mountai/i to the Jock (G'28'2', 377' higher than the lligikulmj, which connects the Oberhaupt with the Klimsenhorn, where the ^'■Hutet Klimsenhorn is situated. Hence to the Klimsenhorn a walk of 10 min. ; extensive view to the E., N., and W., from the mountains of Uri and the Lake of Lucerne to the vicinity of Freiburg , and the Lake of Neu- chatel. The prospect to the 8. is hidden by the loftier peaks of Pilatus. — The *Tomlishorn, reached from the hotel in ^/4 hr., commands a more extensive and unobstructed panorama than the Esel ; the new path which has recently been con- structed, presents no difficulties even to ladies. The zigzag path from the Hotel Klimsenhorn to the Oberhaupt leads in ^/.i hr. to the Krisiloch (thus far riding is practicable), an aperture in the rock, 20' in height, through which two ladders ascend to the ridge separating the Oberhaupt from the Esel, where a fine *view of the Bernese Alps is suddenly disclosed. Belleoue Hotel, see below. From Alpnach (p. 89) the bridle-path (not to be mistaken; sign-posts at doubtful points), immediately beyond the village crosses the Kltine ScJdierenbach to Jni Grand, whence it gradually ascends in 4 hrs. to the Hotel Bellevue. Those who in descend- ing desire to proceed to Alpnach-Oestad without passing through Alpnach, take the path to the 1., 'o hr. above the latter. The Bellevue Hotel , where the path unites with that from the Klimsenhorn, is situated at the base of the *Esel, which may be ascended in a few minutes. "View. The foreground comprises the indented rocky peaks of Pilatus, skirted by green pastures. Tlie view of the Bernese Alps is similar to lliat from the Kigi, but surpasses it in grandeur, especially as the Wetter- tiiirner and Walcher or (irindelwalder \ iescherhiiruer , the Eiger, ildnch, Jungfrau, and also the Titlis are more conspicuous. Of the Lake of Lucerne a much larger portion (as far as Brunnen) is visible than from the Kigi- kulm, and its cruciform shape is distinctly observed. 54 Route ?/. GOLDAl'. Pilatus may be said to bear the >ame relation to the Rigi as the epic poem to the idyl: the former with its barren and rugged peaks inspires awe; whilst the latter with its rich and grassy slopes presents a smiling and attractive aspect. Pilatus is the great and generally trustworthy barometer of the district. The popular saying runs thus : If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day. If his collar he puts on, then mount the rugged way. But if his sword he wields, then keep at home I say : If the summit is free from clouds and fog in the morning, the weather cannot be depended on; but if on the contrary the top is shrouded in fog till noon a tine day may be expected. Many legends are connected with the Pilatus. especially with its caverns { Mondloch below the Tomlisalp ; DominWiolile above the Brundlisalp) and its Lake (to the S. W. of the Klimsenhorn). One of the oldest, and at the same time most jiroundless , tells us that when Pontius Pilate was banished from Galilee, he fled hither, and. in the bitterness of his re- morse, precipitated himself into a lake (in the summit of the mountain, which was thenceforth named after him. 21. From Lucerne to Brunnen by Kiisnacht, Arth, and Schwyz. Coinp. ^fap p. 6*6". By Steamboat from Lucerne to Kiisnacht in 50min; from Kusnacht to Arth by Diligence in 1 hr., or by Omnibus in 'jz hr. to Immensee. Hnd thence by steamboat to Arth in 25 min. From Arth by Diligence to Schwyz in li|2, to Brunnen in 2 hrs. On leaving Lucerne, the high-road lirst fcdlows the N. bank of the lake, in view of the Bernese and Engelberg Alps: it then recedes a little. bt>yond the Pension Seeburg (p. 49), in order to cut oft" the angle formed by the bays of Lucerne and Kusnacht. As the latter bay is approached, the ruins of Xeii-IIabsbi/rg (p. 69) are seen on the r. The villages of Meggen (1512) (see p. 48) and MuvUschachen (1457'| are next passed. 5 M. Kusnacht, and thence by the -Hohle Gasse' (hollow lane) and the Chapel of William Tell, as far as the inn 'Zur Eiche\ see p. 48. The road here turns to the r.. whilst that to Immensee proceeds to the 1. At the fool of the extreme X. slopes of the Rigi. the W. bank of the lake of Zug is skirted, in view of the rugged heights of the Rossberg (see below), which rise bevond the blue expanse of the lake. IOV4 M." from Lucerne Arth (1364') (Rigi-path see p. 59), is reached (see p. 48"). On approaching Goldau (IV2 M- ) f-^ti.'^.'j/^, R. IV2. B- 1- S- 2'/2 fr.), traces of the disastrous landslip of the Rossberg. which completely buried this large and wealthy village, may be observed. Two tablets of black marble, on the exterior of the church (erected in 1849, almost on the same site as the old edifice), record the names of some of the ill-fated vil- lagers, and a brief notice of the catastrophe. Goldau Landslip. The Rvfi, or Rossberg (5141'). at whose base Goldau is situated, is, like the Rigi. composed of -Xagelflue'. a conglomerate con- sisting chiefly of rounded limestone and flint pebbles imbedded in a cal- careous cement. This rock, in itself extremely hard, is frequently inter- stratified with layers of sand, which are worn away by time, or by sub- terranean waters, so that the solid superincumbent strata, wanting fo»ind?- tion. are from time to time precipitated into the valley. The summer of 1806 had licen very rainy. On Sept. 2nd, about 5 )'. m.. one of these strata, SCHWYZ. 1'/. H'M/tt. 55 UjOCC in l<:Tigtli and lUU' in lliickiif.ss . was |.iTcil>ilate the valley helow. swallowinf; np (rtur villages with ahntit 50t.l (tt their iuhahilants. and converting the .smiling landscape into a scene f>t desolation. It filled np ahout one-fourth of the Lake of Lower/,, the sudden rise of which occasioned new di.'^berg, which is still entirely barren. The village of Lowerz (14T()') (Adier), on the lake of the >auie name. A^/o M. from Arth. lost its church and some of its houses ill the same catastrophe. Driven violently from its bed. the water rose like a wall to the height of TO', inundating the i; towards Steinen. and which is crossed by a footpath (in 4 hrs. ) to Einsiedeln. The ascent of the Great Mythen (lV243'| has been greatly facili tated by I ho construction of a new path. The view vies with those from 56 Route 21. RIGT. the Rigi and Pilatus. Guide unnecessary. The somewhat fatiguing ascent from Schwyz by St. Joseph., or by Kickenbach ('Hotel Bellevue, also a pension), through the ravine, and by the pastures 'Hasle' and 'IIolz' (re- freshments) to the Holzerjg (5015', small inn, 3 beds), occupies PJ4 hr. — Another path leads from Brunnen to the Holzegg by Ibadi and Rickenbach in 23J4 hrs. (Schwyz remains on the 1.). — Good path from Einsiedeln by Alpthal to the Holzegg in 2^\\ hrs. — By tUe new path from the Plolzegg, the summit of the Mythen is attained in \^,^ hr. At tlie top a small inn witli a few beds. Apart from its picturesque situation , Schwyz presents few objects of interest. The Parish Church, completed in 1774, is considered one of the handsomest in Switzerland. The Town Hall contains the portraits of 43 landammanns (sheriffs) from 1534 downwards. The ceiling of the council-chamber is decorated with some fine old carving (fee ^/-i fr.J. A relief of the valley of Muotta is exhibited by M. Schindler, a dyer (fee 7.2 fr.J. The large building with the church on the height, originally destined to be a Jesuits" Convent, is now a grammar-school. Near it is the ancient House of the Reelings, with two red towers, adorned with the family escutcheon. Brumien is 3 M. to the S.E. of Schwyz. The road passes by Ibach, at the entrance of the valley of Muotta (R. 76); then Inyenbohl (Pension), whose church with three altar-pieces is worthy of a visit; next the jiunnery of Mnriahilf. founded in 1855. ir-/8 M. Brunnen, see p. 71. 22. The Rigi. See Map p. 66. Distance to the Kulm: from Arth, Goldau, TelFs Chapel, Kiisnacht, Waggis, Vitznau (railway see below), Immensee 3i|2 hrs., fromLowerz 4 hrs., from Gersau 43,4 hrs. Pedestrians of ordinary powers will perform these di- stances in the time specified, walking slowly (60 steps per min.), but steadily, and without stopping. The descent occupies two-thirds of that time (see p. 46). The ascent on the E. by Arth or (Joldau, or by Lowerz, for those coming from the S., is to be preferred. The path is almost entirely in the shade in the afternoon, and as it commands no view, the etfect is the more im- pressive when the summit is gained, whilst the routes from Immensee, Kiisnacht, and Waggis, which wind round the mountain-sides, gradually prepare the traveller for the beauty of the scene. The ascent from Arth, Goldau, or Lowerz, and the descent to Waggis (visit, in passing, the Eotfistock and the KaiizU, see pp. 60, 62) atlbrd the enjoyment of a most charming, uninterrupted prospect over the Lake of Lucerne and the Alps of Uri and Lnterwald, which renders this route far preferable to the descent on the E. or N. sides. The descent to Kiisnacht (as well as the path to Immensee) has the advantage of being in the shade during the morning, allows a somewhat longer stay on the summit, and yet enables the traveller to reach Lucerne before noon, the steamboat leav- ing Kiisnacht later than Waggis. Steamboats between Arth, Immensee, and Zug, 4 times daily, in 1 hr. (p. 46); between Kiisnacht and Lucerne 3 times, in 1 hr. ; between Waggis and Lucerne 5 times, in 3j^ hr. (p. 66). Rigi Railway ( p. 59 ) from ^'itznau to the plateau above the Kaltbad (p. 64) in l^U hr. (descent in 1 hr.); fare for the ascent 5, for the descent 2'),j fr. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free, overweight charged at the rate t)f i fr. 40c. per cwt. Three trains daily in connection with the steamboats on the Lake RIGl. 2-2. Route. O/ of Lucerne. Extra-trains rtespatclied at any hour ff)r not fewer than 24 pas- sengers. The station at \'it/.nau is close to the steamboat pier (see p. o9j. Horses and Guides. Tlie principal jiaths arc so minutely described in the following pages that they cannot be missed. The concourse f)f travellers who frequent the route during the summer months is moreover so great as to render the services of a guide supertlur)us : a l)oy, however, may be readily engaged for 1 fr., who will show the way to the summit and carry any light luggage. (Hiides and horse-proprietors begin to importune travellers at Zurich, Horgen, Zug. ic. The ascent on horseback is not unpleasant, the descent is disagreeable, and more fatiguing than on toot. The leader of the horse expects a fee. A governnient regulation of June ITth, 185S (recently abrogated, but sufficient to convey an idea of the proper charges), fixed the following charges for the canton of Schwyz : Horses. (1). From Arth or from Goldau to the Klosterli 7, 8tatlel, or Kaltbad 9, Kulm or Scheideck 10 fr. ; for return by the sainn route from the Klosterli 5, Stalfel, Kaltbad, or Kulm 6, Scheideck 10 fr. ; for return by Jmmerisee, Kiisnacht . or Wagyis from the StatVel or Kaltbad 9, from the Kulm or Scheideck 10 fr- — (2). Fnmi Gersau to the Scheideck 7, Klosterli b, Kaltbad, Kulm, or Statfel 12 fr. ; for return to Gersau from Scheideck 5, Khisterli, Statlel, or Kaltbad G, Kulm 10 fr. — (3). From Kiisnacht or Immensee to the Stall'el S, Kulm, Klosterli, Kaltbad 10, Scheideck 12 fr. ; for return to Kusnacht and Immensee from the Statlel 5, Kulm, Klosterli, Kaltbad (3, Scheideck lU fr. ; for return by Artli , Goldau or Wciggis from the Klosterli, Statlel, Kaltbad 9, from Kulm or Scheideck 10 fr. — (4). For a horse ordered for the next day for the return, and not counter- manded until then, 5 fr. must be paid. Chairs (for the ascent 3 or 4 porters, according to the traveller's weight, are necessary, for the descent 2) : (1). From Arth or from Goldau to the Klosterli for each porter 4 fr. 3<-», Kaltbad or Statlel 5, Kulm or Scheideck G fr. ; for return from Klosterli 3 fr. 60, Kaltbad or Statlel 4 fr. 30, Kulm or Scheideck 5 fr. 30c. — (2j. F'rom Gersau to Scheideck for each porter 4 fr. 50, Klosterli 5 fr. 50, Kaltbad or Statlel 6 fr. 50, Kulm 8 fr. ; for re- turn from Scheideck 3 fr. SO, Klosterli 4 fr. 80, Kaltbad or Statlel 5 fr. 80, Kulm 7 fr. 80 c. — (3). From Kiisnacht to the Statlel 4 fr. 50 c.-, Kulm, Kaltbad, Khisterli 6, Scheideck 8 fr. ; for return from the Staftel 3 fr. 80, Kulm, Kaltbad, Klosterli 5 fr. 30, Scheideck 7 fr. 30 c. Porters. (1). From Arth or from Goldau, according to weight {%\ 40, GO, 80 or 100 lbs.), to the Klosterli lija, 3, 3', 2, 4 or 5 fr. ; Kaltbad or Stallel 2, 3Vj, 4i;2, 5 or 6 fr. ; Kulm or Scheideck 3, 4"j2, 5, 6 or 61,2 fr. — (2). From (iersau to .Scheideck I'ja, 3, 31)2 5 4 or 5-, Khisterli 2, 3'i2, 4, 4>(2, 5»J2 fr. ; Kaltbad or Statlel 2'|2, 4, 4112, 5, 6 fr. ; Kulm 3, 4>l2, 5, 6, 6M2 fr. — (3). From Kiisnacht to the StaOel l'|2, 3, 31,2, 4. 5 fr. : Kulm, Kaltbad, or Klosterli 2, 3ij2, 4'|2, 5, 6 fr. ; Scheideck 3, 4', 2, 5, 6, 6'>|2 fr. For Waggis (Canton of Lucerne), the following official taritl' was fixed in I860: Horse with conductor to Kaltbad 6, Staffel or Klosterli 8, Kulm 10 fr. ; for return the same day 4, 5 or 6 fr. ; C/tairHy for each porter to Kaltbad 4, Statlel^ or Khisterli 5, Kulm G fr. (samerate for the descent, if there has been no previous agreement for a reduced charge). Porters^ by weight (2|2, 4ij2, 5 fr., Kulm 3'j2, 4i|2, 5, G fr. ; Guides (with 20 lbs. of luggage), to Kaltbad 1 fr. 20 c, Stallel or Klosterli 11 ,'2, Kulm 2 fr. Regulations. The following are the most important clauses: § 8. The horses for hire must be sound and strong, the gear in good order. § 8. The cliief of the guides (Tourmeister), who holds office under the superinlenenced of the burgomaster, is responsible for the observance of the regulations. His duty is to maintain order amongst the guides, to render assistance to travellers, and to give notice of any infringement of the regulations. § 11. Each horse must have a leader. § 12. The chief of the guides has the sole right of ottering guides or horses to travellers, without, however, con- trolling their choice. § 14. The guides are forbidden to importune travellers. § 15. Civility and sobriety are strictly enjoined. Guides are personallv ri-s|.()nsibli- for the luggage entrusted to them. § Hi. Thev are forbidden 58 Route •}2. RIOl. Hotels. k» ask tor gratuities in exci-ss of the taritV. ^ 10. The diief of the guides has to adjust any differences that may arise among; the guides themselves, or between travellers and their guides: if he cannot succeed in doing so, the matter must V>e brought before the mayor (Gemeindeamniannj. or the nearest magistrate. The ascent of the Rigi is attended with no difficulty ; the lirst portion is the steepest. The traveller who feels fatigue at the commencement ot the undertaking, never fails to recover as he approaches the summit, and inhales the pure and invigorating mountain air. The Kulm should b^' reached at least an hour before sunset, in order to secure the evening view, the morning fogs too often causing disappointment. Hotels, On the Kulm : H o t e Tr i g i - K u 1 m tp. 62), R. in the old house 3 — 4. in the new 4 — 5 fr.. L. I. B. I'lj. table d'hote at 12'|j or in the even- ing, exc. W. 4, the cheapest wine 3 fr. a bottle, tea with cold meat S'U- A. I fr. The rooms to the S. (generally with 2 beds) alone command a complete view of the Alps. Telegr. oflice in the house. — *R ig i -S ta f fel . "l-ihr. below the Kulm. recently enlarged, R. li's, B. li|4, S. 2i(-.., A. 3,4 fr.. pension 5 to 6 fr.. according to the rooms. — *Schwert, near the Klosterli Tp. 60). 3|4 hr. to the E. below the Staftel. unpretending, pension 31;,; fr. ; The Sonne, near the Schwert, is also unpretending, but well spoken of. The Klosterli has no view, but is less exposed to wind and fog than the Staflel or Kulm •- the sun often shines there when the suiTOunding heights are enveloped in cloud : it is therefore a very suitable place for persons in delicate health who contemplate a prolonged stav on the mountain. — The K alt bad (p. 62), i j hr. to the W. of the Staflfel (R. 2—6. B. U,-.., A. ".'2, bottle of wine 3 fr. ) is generally full in the height of summer; pension 6 fr.. not including room, baths, whey, wine, and attendance, which cost 4 — 5 fr. additional per diem: rooms must be ordered beforehand, so that ordinary travellers rarely lind accommodation here. — "Hotel and Pen- sion R igi-Sche i deck ( p. 65). magnificent view, second only to that from the Kulm. R. from li|2. B. U(4. D. 3i •.». L. and A. l'|4 fr. Pension excl. R. 5 fr. Whey. milk, or the chalybeate water of the Scheideck 15 c. per glass ; ordinary bath 1 fr.. whey-bath 4 fr. Telegr. office. The establish- ment was considerably enlarged in 1870. In the height of the season travellers are recommended to telegraph ( ' 2 fr.) from Ziirich . Lucerne. Horgen. Wadenswyl, Zug. Schwyz, Altorf, or Stans. if they wish to secure good accommodatiim at the Kulm. The **Rigi (5905'. 4472' above the Lake of Lucerne^, a ffronp of mountains. comprisin» a circuit of '24 to 30 M.. lying between 3 lakes fLucerne. Zug. Lowerz^ is chiefly composed of strata of conglomerate (p. 54); the N. and \V. sides belong to the meio- cene formation. The X. side is precipitous, but on the S. it consists of wide terraces . and gentle slopes , covered with tig, chestnut, and almond trees, and fresh green pastures, which sup- port upw^ards of 4000 head of cattle. The N. peak, usually called the Rigi. would hardly be mentioned in comparison with the giants of the Alps, but for its advantageous position, which commands a panorama of at least 300 miles in circumference. It was formerly termed by the inhabitants of the vicinity the Rigi-Weid (pasturage of the Rigi); at present it is known, however, only as the Rigi. The cow-herds and the frequenters of the Kaltbad were at one time the only persons who were aware of its existence. In 1689 an inh.abitant of Arth erected the Chapel of Our Lady of the Snow (St. Maria zum Schnee) for the use of the cow-herds. The image of the Virgin which was placed there in 1700. soon acquired a reputation for the miraculous cures it was superstitiously believed to effect. Hencf Railway. HTGI. L>2. Route. 59 arose the ciiifton) of making pilgriiuafres to tho spot, and inns pradnally sprang up, which in 1760 sn- slructed on sound jirinciples, and to be haidly less safe than a level line. It is therefore recommended to those whose time is linuted. Paths (compare p. 56). From Arth (p. 48) (lo64') a wide, well-trodden track, which cannot be mistaken, ascends the Higi. At the last house in the village near St. George's Chapel, it turns to the 1. ; in 12 niin. the foot of the mountain is reached; 12 min. more, a cascade of several falls, over blocks of (7c/iins gained (p. 59). where the paths from Arth and Goldau unite. To the 1. are the steep declivities of the Rothenfluh (5233'). From Lowerz (p. 55).' The traveller coming from Arth who desires to form an accurate idea of the destruction caused by the Rossberg landslip (p. 54), should proceed to Lowerz (4'/.> M.). Travellers from Lucerne may avail themselves of the steamboat to Bninnen (p. 71). and thence proceed by carriage in 2 hrs. by Schwyz to Lowerz. Leaving Lowerz. the road should be followed for about 1/4 hr.. as far as a direction-post, where the footpath diverges, ascending gently through meadows, in front of some detached houses. After an ascent of 1 hr. a chalet with a cross is reached, where the path divides; that to the r. leading to the Kulm. that to the 1. to the Kigi-Scheideck (see below). In 1/4 lir. the path reaches a beautiful wood and traverses it for about one hour, before arriving at the valley of the Rigi. which is crossed below the chapel of Malchus (p. 60). On the oppo- site (1.) slope of the valley, the path unites with that from Goldau. The footpath from Lowerz is nowhere fatiguing; the ascents are gradual . whilst level tracts and occasionally even slight descents alTord a pleasant variety. From Lowerz to the Kiifi-Scheideck (p. 65) 3 hrs., guide desirable. Near Ober- (fsclnn'ind the Gersau path is reached. From K ilsnucht (p. 48). The path diverges to tlie r. by the figure of a saint, rear the end of the village, leading by the brook, which is crossed near a large new house; in V2 lir. the ruins of a house destroyed by lire; at the direction-post 'auf die Rigi' the path turns to the 1. ; in 20 min. Rossweid is reached, where a rock bears a cross to the memory of a man killed by lightning in 1738 (view over the N. part of the Lake of Zug; at the N. extremity the white church of Cham. p. 33); then through a wood for 20 min.; afterwards a tract of fern is traversed (view to the 1. over the Lake of Sempach. to the r. over the Lake of Raldegg). In '/4 ^^r. the Seeboden-Alp (Inn), is reached , where the paths from Immensee and Tells Chapel unite with the Kiisnacht path; in 18 min. the Upper Seeboden- Alp is reached, with a chalet, where refreshments may be had. 6*2 Route -J-J. RIGl. k'altbad. Then, after a steep zigzag ascent of 1 1/4 hr. . the Staflfel is attained. Thence to the Kulm (i/.j hr. ) see p. 61. From Jmmensee (p. 4?j. About '/i ^^- fi"om Immensee, near the inn Zur Eiche\ the high-road from Kiisnacht to Arth is reached (p. 48); about oO paces to the 1. of the juiu^tion. by the inn Zar Ilge , the path which ascends to the r. must be taken; in l^/^ lir. the lower Seeboden-AIp (see above) is reached, where the paths from Immensee, Tells Chapel, and Kiisnacht unite. From Greppen (p. 48), on the E. bank of the Kiisnaclit branch of the Lake of Lucerne, a good bridle-path recently con- structed also ascends to the summit in 87-2 hrs. V'- From Wdggis (p. 69). This path cannot possibly be missed (direction-post near the steamboat-pierj ; it winds through the midst of orchards, the produce of which the traveller has fre- quent opportunities of purchasing. The path crosses the spot inundated in 1795 by a thick bed of mud, which descended like a stream of lava from the Kigi, and as it took a fortnight to reach the lake, left the inhabitants ample time to save themselves and their property. A number of houses and a large tract of fertile land were devastated. At the Chapel of the Holy Cross (Heilig- kreuzkapelle) (l'/4 hr.) good beer may be procured (^2 fr. per bottlej. A wall of rugged rocks is next skirted; 30 min. the Hochstein or Felsenthor, an arch formed of two enormous masses of conglomerate, on which rests a third block surmounted by a cross. The nature of the rock indicates that occurences similar to the landslip of Goldau (p. 54) and the mud-torrent mentioned above, have taken place here also. The Kaltbad (47'2T'J, ^/^ hr. from the Hochstein, is men- tioned at p. 58. Through a cutting in the rock to the 1. of the liotel the traveller reaches the Chapel of St. Michael, where mass is daily celebrated for the herdsmen. The walls are covered with votive tablets, one of which extols the virtues of the cold spring (^41" Fahr. ) which issues from tlie adjacent rock. Hy the Chapel, a footpath leads to the (_10 min.) *hdnzli (4770'), an open rotunda on a projecting ro. Route. r)3 ol" the Uigi group ( the entire cinnnilerenre oi' whiili irs '2;')— 80 M.), and is covered \s\i\\ verdure to the summit. Its N. side makes a precipitous descent into the Lake of Zug. whilst on tlie 8. side it is connected ^vith the other heights of the liigi. The large hotel (^p. 5 crest of the Glarnisch rises above the ridge: then the T.idi, in front of which the Clariden, to the r. the double peak of the Scheerhorn -, next the Windgelle, the sharp pyramid of the Kristenstock, at the foot of which the St. Gotthard road begins to rise near Amstiig in the valley of the Ileuss; the Ulackeustock and the Uri - Kothstock , side by side, are both so near that the ice of their glaciers can be distinguished ; more to the right the Titlis, the highest of the Unterwalden range, easily distinguished by its immense covering of snow. Tlic eye next travels to the Bernese Alps, crowning the landscape with their heights of perpetual snow. To the ex- treme 1. the Finsteraarhorn, the loftiest of all, adjacent to it the Schreck- horn, the three white peaks of the Wetterhom, the Monch, the Eiger with its perpendicular walls of dark rock on the X. side, and the Jung- frau. To the W., rise the rugged summits of the sombre Pilatus, forming the termination of the Alps in this direction. — Towards the n o r t h the entire Lake of Zug is visible, and the houses of Arth, Zug, and Cham. To the 1. of the Lake of Zug, at the foot of the Rigi, TelFs Chapel, midway between Immensee and Kiisnacht, a little to the 1. of the white house; separated from the Lake of Zug by a narrow strip of land, the Kiisnacht arm of the Lake of Lucerne: more to the W. Lucerne with its crown of battlements and towers, at the head of its bay. Beyond Lucerne is seen almost the entire canton of that name, with the Emme meandering through it like a thread of silver: the Reuss also appears here and there. More distant are the Lake of yempach, the \V. side of which is skirted by the railway to Hale, and the lakes of Baldegg and Halhvyl. The western and north-western horizon is bounded by the Jura chain, above whicli jieep some of the crests of the Vosges. — To the X.. but to the 1. of the Lake of Zug, the handsome buildings of the ancient .\bl)ey of JIuri are visible, beyond which rises the castle of Habsburg; in the distance the Black Forest with its highest summits, the Feldberg (to the r.) and the Belchen (to the 1.). Beyond the Lake of Zug is seen the ridge of the .Vlbis with the Uetliberg, which almost entirely conceal the Lake of Ziirich; the extensive cantonal hospital and the cathedral in the town of Ziirich are, however, visible. In the extreme distance rise the basaltic cones of Hohenhoewen and HohenstotVeln (close together) and the Hohentwiel in Swabia. Towards the east , behind the X. slope of the Rossberg, a glimpse of the Lake of Egeri, on the S. bank of which was fought the famous battle of Morgarten. Beyond Arth, opposite the Kulm, is the Rossberg, the scene of the disastrous Goldau landslip. Between the Rossberg and the E. ramifications of the Rigi, the Lake of Lowerz with its two little islands ; above it, the town of Schwyz, at the foot of the barren heights of the Mythen, overtopped by the magnificent (Glarnisch. To the r. , the valley of the Muotta, celebrated in military annals. To the south and south-east the ditVerent summits of the Uigi form the foreground: ilochtluh (below it the Rothenfiuh), Scheideck, Dossen. and Schilt, at the foot of which lies the Kliisterli. To the 1. of the Schilt, the Lake of Lucerne in the vicinity of Beckenried, to the r. that part of the lake known as the Lake of Buochs. the Buochser Horn above it: a little more tfi the r. Ihe Stanser Horn with Staus at its base: nearer, tlie less elevated 64 Route 22. RIGI. Kubn. Bhrgenstock and tlit- Rigi-Koth.stock. Beyond these heights, to the 1., (he lake of Sarnen, embosomed in forest, to the r. the haj' of Alpnach, con- nected with the Lake of Lucerne by a narrow strait formed by the Loppcr- berg. a spur of Pilatus. From the middle of July to the middle of September , in favourable weather . the hotel is very much frequented (pre- cautions about securing accommodation, see p. 58). The concourse of strangers, composed of such various elements, is of itself a source of no little amusement to the observant spectator. Every grade of society is here represented ; all the languages of Europe combine to produce a very Babel of incongruous sounds. At sunset all are attracted to the summit by one common object. Loiterers arrive breathless at the point towards which they have been toiling so many hours. An indifferent performer on the Al- pine horn awakens the echoes, and sorely tries the temper by his illtimed exertions. When the sun has at length disappeared, the prosaic attractions of the supper-table become predominant. Not- withstanding the great number of rooms that the hotel contains, it is not an uncommon occurrence for late, comers to be con- signed to the salle-a-manger for the questionable night's repose such an apartment is likely to afford. Half an hour before sun-rise, the Alpine horn sounds the reveille. All is again noise, bustle, and confusion. As the sun, it is well known , will wait for no man , impromptu toilettes of the most startling description are indulged in. A red Indian in his blanket would on these occasions be thought extremely well and appropriately dressed, and have many imitators , for though the custom is interdicted under the penalty of a line, a blanket is too ready and tempting a garment to be disregarded. The sleepy eye soon brightens, the limb stiffened by the exertions of the preceding day is lithe again in that exciting moment ; the huge hotel is for the nonce without a tenant; and if the eager crowd are not, like the disciples of Zoroaster, ready with one accord to prostrate themselves before the great source of light and life in which they see the fitting emblem of all good , it may be safely premised there are few whose thoughts do not turn in silent adoration towards that mighty hand which created 'the great light which rules the day', and whose first beams are now being so anxiously expected. A faint streak in the E., which pales by degrees the bright- ness of the stars , is the precursor of the birth of day. This insensibly changes to a band of gold in the extreme horizon ; each lofty peak is in succession tinged with a roseate blush ; the shadows between the Rigi and the horizon gradually melt away; forests, lakes, hills, towns, and villages reveal themselves; all is at first grey and cold, until at length the sun suddenly bursts from behind the mountains, in all his majesty, flooding Scheideek. RICJI. 22. Route. 65 the whole, of the superb landscape with light and warmth (coinp. Panorama). Amonjr the mo.^t picturesque point< of this magnificent scene, which embraces a circuit of nearly 300 miles , are the Lakes of Zug and Lucerne, which last branches off in so many directions, as almost to bewilder the eye. They approach so close to the foot of the Rigi, that it seems as if a stone might be thrown into them. Eleven other small lakes are also visible. For a quarter of an hour before and after sunrise the view is clearest; at a later hour the mists rise and condense into clouds, frequently concealing a great part of the landscape. The chamois-hunter in Schiller's Tell aptly observes : Through the parting clouds only The earth can be seen, Far down 'neath the vapour The meadows of green. But the mists themselves have a certain charm , rising sud- denly from the depths of the valleys , veiling the Kulm , and struggling against the powerful rays of the sun. The different effects of light and shade, varying so often in the course of the day, are a source of constant admiration to the spectator. At a very early hour the Bernese Alps are seen to the best advan- tage; and in the evening those to the E. of the Bristenstock. Those who have sufficient leisure will not repent devoting several days to the Rigi. In the evening and morning the vast concourse of visitors is a great hindrance to the pensive study of the scene, whilst during the day the lover of nature can without interruption contemplate the mighty prospect around him. When the view lias been sufficiently surveyed , any leisure time may be advantageously devoted to visiting the Staffel, the Rothstock, the Kaltbad, the Klosterli, or even the Scheideek. The temperature often varies as much as 45'^ within the 24 hrs. ; plaids and shawls, therefore, should not be forgotten. During the prevalence of the S. wind (Fohn) the mountains seem to draw nearer , their jagged outlines become more definite , their tints warmer. The same effect is produced by the W. wind on the Jura, but both are generally the precursors of rain. A singular atmospheric Phenomenon is sometimes witnessed on the Rigi, as on some other high mountains. When the vapours rise perpendicularly from the valleys, on the side opposite the sun, without enveloping the mountain itself,"a kind of screen is formed, capable of ex- hibiting the outline of the mountain and any objects )m it. In such a case persons standing on the summit of the Rigi have their shadows cast upon this misty screen in greatly enlarged proportions, encircled by a prismatic halo, which is sometimes double, if the mist is thick. The *Rigi-Scheideck fo400'). the ridge of the Rigi running S.E. towards the Lake of Lowerz , with the hotel mentioned at p. 58 couHuands a less extensive view than the Kulm, but also embracing the entire chain of mountains , and some points not visible from the Kulm (see Panorama at th'e inn). The Schei- B.EUEKiii:, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 5 66 lioute 'J3. LAKE OF LLOERlNli, deck is a chaiuiiiig retreat, quiet and peaceiui , presenting A marked contrast to the incessant bustle of the Kulm. The table- land on the summit, upwards of i M. in length, affords an agreeable promenade; the Dossen (see below) is about '-^/^ hr. distant. A good path, which begins at the platform of the hotel 'Zum Schwert', near the KLosterli (p. GOj, leads in 2 hrs. to the Schei- deck, passing at the foot of the Dossen (5515'J (1/4 hr. suflices for the ascent of the Dossen ; charming view over the Lake of Lucerne and the Lnterwalden districts). The route is easily fouiid. The same may be said of that from Gersau to the Scheideck (ascent 81/4, descent 2 hrs.; path steep, but well- kept). On leaving the village a brook is passed, the r. bank of which must be followed; near the Saw-mill (IVi hr.), the path crosses to the 1. bank; 20 min. from the top, a narrow ridge is reached, where a superb view suddenly opens over the lakes of Lowerz and Zug, the Rossberg , Lowerz, Goldau, and Arth. Path from Lowerz, see p. 61. A direct path leads from the hjcheideck to the Kulm, rendering it unnecessary to descend to the Klosterli. Horses and guides (unnecessary) see p. 57. 23. From Lucerne to Como { Milan j by the St. Gotthard. Lake of Lucerne. 143 M. Steamboat from Lucerne to Fliielen in 23/4 hrs. ^ Diligence (see below) from Fliielen to Camerlata in 223|4 hrs. Tlirough-tickets for the entire route may be procured at the Post-Office, Lucerne (where coupe- places are most easily secured), and also at the Steamboat-Office. The luggage is weighed and charged for on board the steamers. Steamboats 4 or 5 times daily from Lucerne to Fliielen and back, to Waggis in 'Jv, Beckeuried in 1, Gersau li|4, Brunnen (by some services passengers for stat. Treib are disembarked in small boats) I'jz, Fliielen 2-*|4 hrs. \ 3 times a day to Alpnach-Gestad, 2 or 3 times a day to Kiisnacht. First class to Fliielen 4 fr. 60 c, 2nd cl. about one-half; return-tickets, available for three days, are issued at one fare and a half, but the journey cannot be broken ; to Fliielen and back 6 fr. Season-tickets at greatly re- duced rates are also issued for the convenience of persons making a pro- longed stay on the banks of the lake. — Most of the steamboats to and from Waggis and Fliielen touch at the Rail way- S tat ion at Lucerne (comp. p. 49). — Rowing-boats (p. 60) are seldom used for long ex- cursions ; the tariiy may be consulted at the inns on the lake. The wind sometimes changes with extraordinary rapidity, and the boatmen maintain that it blows from a dillerent quarter as each promon- tory is rounded. The most violent is the F'(>hn (the S. wind), which sometimes renders the navigation of the S. bay of the lake (Lake of Uri, p. 72) impracticable for sailing or rowing-boats, and dangerous even for steamboats, in line weather the Bis e (N. wind) usually prevails on the bay of Uri from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m. During the rest of the day a gentle S. wind. Caution. Travellers are frequently assailed during their progress by guides, voituriers, touters, etc. They are recommended, therefore, to arrange their plans previously to arriving at their destination, and not allow them- selves to be influenced by the statements of this 'fraternity. Distances. Fluelen to Amstag i(^^2■, to Andermatt 24, to the Hospice of St. Gotthard 34, to Airolo 42, to Faido 52»|v, to Bellinzona 78i|4, to Lugano yTij-.-j to Como llT'Ji Engl. M. ^^e^ u ^-X -i LAKE Ot' LLGKKNE. 'J J. Route. 67 i)iligence« From Fliielcn to Andeimatt in 5 Ins., 7 fr. 10 c. \ Airolo 9 hrs. , 13 fr. lU c. ; Faido Uiji hrs., 13>|-2 fr. ^ Bellinzona I4ijj Lrs., 23 Ir. 20 c. ; Lugano ISij- Ins., 27 tr. 41) c. ; Camerlata 223|4 Ins., 31 fr. 00 c. The diligences over tiie St. Got! hard have three seats in the coupe (very comfortable, booking see above j, and six in tlic interior (the two middle seats inside arc of course to be avoided as alVording little or no view) ; in addition to these there are tv.'o other seats beside the conductor and driver (comp. Introd. IX). Carriages. Conveyances may be obtained for which the landlords of the hotels at Fliielen, Andermatt and Hospenthal, Airolo, Faido, Bellinzona, Magadino, Lugano (Hotel du Pare) and Como provide a change of horses. A two -horse carriage, accommodating 4 to 5 persons, from Fliielen to Andermatt or Hospenthal costs 3o fr. 5 trom Andermatt or Hospenihal to Airolo 30 fr. ; Airolo-Faido Ij, Faido-Belliuzona 2j, Belliuzoua-Lugauo 2u (Bellinzona-Magadino 15), Lugauu-Como 25 fr., altogether 150 fr., and a fee of about 24 fr. to the driver in addition (for each station 2 fr. at least) ^ this mode of travelling is, for 4 persons, little dearer than the coupe of the diligence. A written agreement (including fees) should be made with the proprietor of the carriage at Fliielen, Como, Lugano, or Magadino, for the entire journey. In order to procure fresh horses it is only necessary to show this agreement at each stage. Payment is made at the end of the journey. These are the precise charges according to laritf. Extortionate demands are however occasionally made, especially on the Italian side, a spurious printed tarill' being even sometimes exhibited; but these should of course be disregarded, and the assistance of the police appealed to if necessary. — Une-horse carr. (not always to be had) from Fluelen to Amstiig y, to ^^'asen 15, Andermatt or Hospenthal 20 (and back 30) fr., and gratuity. Two -horse carr. from Fliielen to Amstiig 15, to Wasen 25, Andermatt or Hospenthal 35 (and back 55) fr., St. Gotthard 50, Airolo 65 fr., and gratuity (tarill of xVpr. 19th, 1869). — Omnibus from Flueleu to Altorf 1 fr. Pedestrians about to cross the Furca and Grimsel (RR. 32, 33) may drive as far as Klus (p. 75) or Amstag, where the St. Gotthard road, pro- perly speaking, begins to ascend. Amstag to Andermatt i6^l-> M., to hos- penthal lija 31. farther. Those who wish to see the X. side only of the Pass of St. (jotthard need nut proceed beyond Andermatt. St. Gotthard Minerals are exposed for sale everywhere, but imposition is frequently practised. The Pass of St. Gotthard was the most frequented of all the routes across the Alps until the commencement of the present century, but as it was not practicable for vehicles , it was gradually deserted after the con- struction of the roads over the Simplon (K. 63), the Splvigen (HR. 88, 89) and the Bernardino (R. 91). In 1820 the governments of the cantons of Uri and Tessin commenced the present road , which is lo'J-j ft. in width. It was completed in 1832. In convenience and utility it is second to none of the Alpine passes; and in niagnilicence of scenery the St. Gotthard is far superior to any of the other passes. The St. Gotthard and Bernardino routes are usually practicable for carriages during 4 or 5 months, from the early part of June (the Splugen generally a week earlier), but as late as June large quantities of snosv are occasionally met with. In winter tra- vellers are conveyed across the mountain in small one-horse sledges. After a heavy snow-storm, communication is often interrupted for a whole week. Military History. The canton of Uri and the valley of the Reuss were the theatre in which the bloodiest scenes of the campaign of the French against the Austrians and Russians were enacted in 1799. Marches vere made and skirmishes fought on heights previously untrodden except by herdsmen and hunters (comp. R. 76). In May, 1799, the French under Soult retreated into the valley of the Reuss, after having been twice prevented from elfeciing a lauding at Fliielen by the men of I'ri. Froiu the 16th to the 18th of May they contended with the Austrians in the Lcveutina (p. S'2), and on the i9ih they retired to the Grisuns by the 6S Soute 23. LAKE OF LUCEKNE. From Lucerne vulley of Ursorn (p. J38). On May 28tL the Austrian general St. Julnn obtained possession of the Teufelshriicke. After a succession of skirmishes the first decisive battle was fought at Ziirich (June 6th), when the Arch- duke Charles was victorious, and the French were compelled to evacuate the country. The Austrians instead of following up their success, remained for two months inactive, thereby enabling their opponents to recover from the blow and procure reinforcements. Thus recruited, the French once more made their appearance in the field. Lecourbe crossed the Surenen (p. 87), Loison the Susten (p. 131). and Gudin forced a passage over the Grimsel and the Furca (pp. 136. 137). The Austrians, attacked on all sides, retreated leisurely to Andermatt (Aug. 14th to 19th). and retired into the Orisons over the Oberalp (p. 312). — About a month after these events, information was brought to the French general Lecourbe., that a con- .siderable army had appeared at the S. base of the St. Gotthard. This in- telligence surprised him, as no hostile manifestation had been expected in that quarter. It was believed that the Russians had retired from the plains of Lombardy across the SpHigen, but the veteran Svicarow had returned at the head of 18.(X)0 infantry and 5000 Cossacks, whom he dis- mounted, iising their horses for the purpose of transporting his artillery. He forced the passage of the St. Gotthard on Sept. 2-4th, and drove the French before him as far as the Lake of Lucerne, where Lecourbe occupied a strong position on the 1. bank of the Eeuss at Seedorf, having previously removed all boats and destroyed the bridge. Sutcarow's purpose was to effect a junction with the Russian forces which had been stationed under Kori>akoic near Ziirich, not having heard of their defeat at the second battle of Zurich (Sept. 25th). But when he found himself unable to pro- cure means of transport, he was compelled to retire through the Schiichen- thal across the Kinzigkulm, through the Muottathal over the Pragcl, and through the Sernfthal over the steep and difficult Panixer Pass to Ilanz (RR. 73. 76, ^0, a masterly retreat without parallel in military annals. Constantlv pursued bv the French . he led his armv successfullv to the valley of the Rhine (Oct. 9th, 1799), with a loss of 3000 men, 'more of whom were killed by the fatigues and dangers of the journey, than by the bullets of the enemy. After his retreat the French once more occupied the canton of Uri as far as the Hospice of the St. Gotthard. which they demolished, using its fragments as fuel. In May, 1800, 15,000 French under Monceij parsed over the St. Gotthard into Italy, at the same time that Napoleon elVected the passage of the Great St. Bernard (p. 237). The ** Lake of Lucerne ( 1433') (F/gru?aWsfr7(. i'/4, A. l^/.), pension G fr. Also several pensions, among them those of Geriy, Zhnmermann-Schurcli, Waldis), surrouiuled by fruit-trees (^chestnuts, almonds, figs), a picturesque village, the garden of Lucerne, is the usual landing-place for the ascent of the liigi which rises in the rear. [Rowing-boat to Lucerne in 2 hrs. 47-2 t"r., Alpnach-Gestad in 2'/.2 hrs. o'/o fr. , see p. i^S; charming walks through Ureppen to Kiisnacfit [p. 4»S), anil to Fitznau.J The next station is I'itznau (Fension Ffyfjer), or Vitznau, with its lofty wall of red ruck, the Eothen/lult, in which is the \V(ddisb(Urn, a stalac- tite-grotto about lOUO' long, difficult of access. \ it/.nau is the station for the Rigi Railway, the terminus of which is close to tlie lake [comp. p. 59). Two promontories here extend far into the lake, apparently terminating it, the one a spur of the Rigi, the other a part of the Bijrgenstock (^see above). These are aptly termed the Nasen (^noses), and may possibly have been once united. Near the E. Nase the siuiw-clad pyramid of the Tiidi (p. 295) and the two peaks of the Pragel (p. 304) become visible. Beyond this strait the lake takes the name of Lake of Buoclis, from the village of Buochs (liossLi, *Kr€uz), a pleasant rustic retreat, above which rise the Jyuocliser Horn and the Stunser Jiorn [ascent seep. S5). 70 Route 23. GERSAU. From Lucerne One-horse carr. from Buochs to Engelberg 12, two-horse 20 fr. and fee fcomp. p. 84"). Beckenried (*Sonne ; *n6tel et Pension Feller ; *Mond, R. II/.2, B. 1 fr.; good pension at all about 5 fr.; Stern, on the lake), formerly the place of assembly for the delegates from the Four Forest Cantons. Diligence to vStans twice daily, see p. 84; two-horse carriage to Brienz about 50 fr. . one-horse 30 fr. ; two-horse carr. to Engelberg (p. 85") 25, and back in one day 35 fr. Road to Seelisberg. see p. 72. On the opposite bank, on a narrow but fertile strip of land, lies the village of Gersau (Hotel Milller, with gardens and lake-baths; the land- lord is proprietor of the Rigi-Scheideck (p. 65); R. 2 — 4. B. IV4, L. and A. IV4, D. 3 . S. 2 fr. ; Pension excl. room 5 fr., L. per week 1, A. 2V2 — 4 fr. ; *Sonne') in the Canton of Schwyz, completely enclosed by rocks. Its picturesque houses, scattered in a wide crescent on the slope of the mountain, and the sur- rounding plantations of fruit-trees and chestnuts, give it a very attractive appearance. The village is protected from cold winds, and is therefore recommended as a residence for invalids in spring or autumm. In the ravine behind it is a silk-mill, and above, on the brow of the mountain, the inn on the Rigi-Schei- deck (p. 65). During four centuries this diminutive corner of land, scarcely 8 sq. M. in extent, and with a population of about 1000 (Gersau has now 1727 inhab.). enclosed between the Fitznauerstock (4750') and the Hochfluh, boasted of being an independent state , the smallest in the world , till the French deprived it of its rights in 1798. The town -hall bears the following inscription : ^Received into the Confederacy 1315, purchased its freedom 1390, assigned to the Canton of Schwyz 1817'. The manners and customs of Gersau are still in some respects peculiar. Not many years ago it was a rendezvous, on the anniversary of the consecration of the church, of all the beggars of the surrounding country, who during three days indulged in fare to which for the rest of the year they were entire strangers ; the three festive days expired, this choice assembly dispersed to their accustomed haunts and avocations. The chapel on the bank to the E. of Gersau derives the ap- pellation of Kindlismord (infanticide) from the story, it is hoped an unfounded one. that a poor fiddler, returning from a wedding at Treib, here dashed out the brains of his starving infant against the rocks. The spot is indicated by a black cross. A pictu- resque footpath leads from Gersau to Brunnen by Kindlismord, 6 M. ; another to Fitznau, 6 M. To the E. rise the barren peaks of the two My then (6243' and 5754'). and at their base, 3 M. inland, lies Schxryz (p. 55): nearer is situated the church of Ingenhohl^ in the distance to to Como. BRUNNEN. 23. Route. "I the r. the Achselhery or Achslenstock (6830') with its crown of bare crags, resembling a mined castle. On the bank of the lake, at the month of the Miiotta, lies the considerable village of Brunnen (*Waldstadter Hof on the lake, new flrst-class hotel ; *Adler. with a 'dependance' on the Axenstrasse, R. Vj^, B. 1V4' L. and A. 1 fr. ; '*Curhnus Axenstein, see below: *Ro.o:sli, pension o fr. ; *Pens. Inderbitzi, on the lake; *Pens. Aufdermaur, on the Giitsch; *Hirsch, R. and L. 2. B. 1. D. 2^0 fr. ; lake-baths Y2 fr."), the port of the canton of Schwyz. perhaps the most beantifnlly-sitnated place on the Lake of Lucerne, of late years much frequented, and suitable for a stay of some duration. The boatmen and carriage - drivers of Brumen are noted for the exorbitance of their charges. Ferry to Treib IV2 fr. Fine view from the Giitsch, a small eminence behind Brunnen, em- hracing the two arms of the lake and the lovely valley of Schwyz. — A heautifiil walk to Morschach (2l.o6') (2 31.). which may be reached by a good carr. -road from the Axenstrasse. From the 'Curhaus Axenstein (Hotel and Pension), a large establishment, recently erected on an eminence, at the so-called 'Brandli'. and provided with pleasure-grounds, a splendid survey of both arms of the lake may be enjoyed. In a geological point of view the numerous erratic blocks found near Morschach are interesting fcomp. Introd. XIV). — The Stoss (4232'). a chapel on the E. spur of the Frohnalp, commands a fine view, and is the site of a small sanitary cstab. (pension 4 fr.) (a boy'should be taken as guide). — From the -Trohr- alp (5787'), li(-.> hr. S. of the Stoss. a magnificent view (panorama U o fr. -, the fore-ground surpassing that of the viow from the Rigi), embracing the entire Lake of Lucerne (inn on the summit). — Walk on the Axenstrasse (p. 73). — Other excursions; to the Lake of Lowerz (p. 55), returning by Schwyz (p. 55) ; to the Muottathal (p. 303) as far as the fall of the Gestiibt- bach near Ried ; to the Kindlismord Chapel (p. 70) and Gersau (p. 70); to the Riitli (see below); to Seeli.sberg, Bauen etc. (see below); to Tell's Chapel (p. 72); to the Mythen (p. 5.5). Opposite Brunnen lies Treib (steamboat-stat., see p. 66). a small harbour in the canton of I'ri, the landing-place for Seelis- berg (2490'), a village 1 hr. above the lake [Pension Hauser, 5 fr.). The 'Curhaus Sonnenberg, situated near the Chapel of Afan'a-Sonnen- herg (2759'), 20 min. above Set'lisbcrg, consists of two houses sheltered by a wood, and much frequented for the sake of the pure mountain air and the whey-cure, from .Tune to the end of September. Pension 5 fr. and upwards. Beautiful view from the Kan:li, ^\i hr. (in the forest to the r.) over the lake and the plain as far as the Weissenstein. About i]-j hr. S. of the Curhaus lies the picturesque tSi'eJishrrritr Sec, at the precipitous N. base of the Niederbaiien or ' Seelisberger Kulm (6323'), which may be ascended from the Curhaus (guide necessary, 5 fr. and fee) in 3'|2 — 4 hrs., or from Emmatten (see below) in 3i|2 hrs. The path (o Emmatten is followed towards the "N., passing the Seelisberg lake; after i|2 hr. the route is to the 1. towards the base of the Bauen. The ascent is steep, and after rainy weather laborious. The narrow path leads part of the way through wood, descending for a .short distance. None but good walkers should attempt the excursion. — The ascent, however, is easier if the path to Emmatten be followed for I hr. ; the route then ascends rapidly across meadows for ^j^ hr.. traverses the wood for J hr., and gra- dually sloping pastures for ^{-z hr. , reaches the chalet (Alpine fare, bed of l>ay if necessary), whence the summit is attained in 40 min. more. The ascent from Emmatten is the shortest, as it begins '14 hr. from tin; village. The view is preferred by many to that from the Rigi. 72 Route 23. TELL'S PLATTE. From Lucerne From Bcckenried (p. TO) to Scclisberg 2i|2 lirs., picturesque road as far as Emmatten ('Pension Schrmeirg, from o fr. ; liatlis, wliej-, etc. I, the lake being visible up to this point. If the traveller intend to proceed to Bauen (charmingly situated on a bay of the Lake of Uri), to be ferried from thence to Fliielen, he should take the path towards the lake, 3J4 M. beyond Seelisberg, where the precipitous walls of rock (the Hchicdndijtuh, the Tei//els>Hihiste/\ see Schiller's Tell, Act IV, Scene 1), rise from the lake, and thence proceed by the old chateau of Beroldingea to Baneii. This is a very delightful walk. Near Bruiiiien , the 8. arm of the lake, called the Lake of Uri, commences. The banks approach each other, and the preci- pices become almost perpendicular. Lofty snow-clad mountains, often partially veiled with clouds, are visible through the gorges which open at intervals. At the extremity of the sharp angle which here abuts on the lake, a short distance from the W. bank, the Wytenstein, or Mytenstein, a pyramid of rock, 80' in height, rises from the water, bearing the inscription in colossal gilt letters: 'Dem Sanger Tell's, Frledrich Schiller. Die Ur-Cantone, 1859.' (To Frederick Schiller^ the bard of Tell. The Swiss Cantons. 1859.) The rock bears a second inscription to the memory of a young Swiss officer, who lost his life by an accident at this spot some years ago. About 1/4 hr. farther, below Seelisberg (p. 71), and 5 min. from its laiiding-place, are the three springs of the Rutli, which trickle from an artificially planted rock , and are surrounded by pretty grounds. This plateau, with the *inn built in 1868, be- longs to the Confederation. The spot is thus described by Walter Fiirst in Scldllers Tell: "On the lake's left bank, As we sail hence to Brunnen, right against The 3Iythenstein, deep hidden in the wood A meadow lies, by shepherds called the Kootli, Because the wood has been uprooted there. 'Tis where our canton's boundaries verge on yours ; Thither by lonely by-paths let us wend At midnight and deliberate o'er our plans^. At this romantic spot, on the memorable night of Nov. 7th, 1307, 33 men, from Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden, assembled and bound them- selves by an oath to be faithful to each other, and not to rest until they had ejected their oppressors from the soil. Tradition relates thai on the spot where the three confederates, Werner 8iaitjfac]ier of Steinen in Schwyz, Erni (Arnold) of Alelchthal in Unterwalden, and Walter Fiirst of Atting- hausen in Uri, stood when the oath was taken, three fountains sprang up, over which a hut was subsequently erected. About 20 min. later, the steamer passes Sissikon (Pension I ri-Kothstock. 4 — 41/2 fr.) on the E. bank. The rugged Achslen- stock (p. 71) is visible through the gorge. The steamboat next reaches Tell's Platte, a ledge of rock at the base of the A.cenfluh or Axenherg (3353'), where, shaded by overhanging trees and almost washed by the waters of the lake , stands the romantic Chapel of Tell, containing a few rudely-executed frescoes of scenes from Tell's history. It is said to have been erected by the Canton to Como. AXEN.STRASSE. 23. Route. to of I'ri on the spot wlierc the Swiss liberator spran;? out of Gessler's boat, and to have been consecrated in 1388 (31 years after the death of TellJ, in the presence of 114 persons \vho had been personally acquaijited with the hero. On the Snnday after Ascension-day, mass is performed here , and a patriotic sermon preached ; this service is attended by the inhabitants of the neighbonring shores in large numbers , their boats being all gaily decorated for the occasion. Near the chapel the lake is 800' in depth. The pe- culiaV, contorted formation of the calcareous strata of the Axen- lluh attracts the attentioji even of the unscientific. The ne\\ * Axenstrasse , leading from Gersau to I'runnen and Fliielen, generally lying low on the bank of the lake, and affording a succession of beautiful views, is also extremely interesting from its bold construction, and in several places penetrates the rock by means of tunnels. On this road, immediately above Telfs Platte, 21/2 M. from Fliielen, is situated TeU's PLatte Hotel, K. 1, B. 1, A. '/2 ^^-i Pension 5 fr. ; also a steamboat-station. As soon as the chapel is passed, Flueten becomes visible. The scenery of this portion of the lake (from the chapel to Fliielen 20 min.) is strikingly imposing. Opposite the 'Platte" on the W. bank lies Jsleten, at the mouth of the Isenthal (worthy of a visit), which branches olf in two directions near the village of the same name (rustic *innj : one branch (to the 8.) is tlie Grosse Isen- thal, bounded by the Enyeiberyer-Eothstock (lj25(3'j. the other the Kleine Isenthal, terminated by the Lri-Iiothstock ('.!(i20'J. Through the former of these two valleys (the Grossthalj, the tra- veller can either proceed to Wolfenscliiess (p. 80), passing (to the W.) be- tween the Jlohenbriexen (7898') and the Kaiserstuhl, over the Bchdne(jg-Pass (G8'27', very steep on the farther side), and hy Ober-Kickenbach (2921'j; oi' he may take the route to Engelberg (p. 80), to" the S.AV., by the Kothgriitli. Through the other valley (Klein thai) a rugged path leads to the rocky terrace ' im Kessel", passing the Mu.^enalp (2 hrs.), ascending steep strata of slate, then crossing a glacier with a gentle slope on the 8. side of the mountain to the summit of the • TJri - Rothstock (9021'), in 8— y hrs. An easier, hut considerahly longer path leads hy the Sc/ilosis/elsen in the Uross- thal over the tSc/iicarzjii-n-Glacier hy the Hamjbaum-Alp to the BliunUaalp, and across the rocks (disintegrated hy exposure to the weather) to the summit. If the traveller wishes to reach the top early in the morning, he must spend the night in the chalet on the Hanghaum - Alp. Descent through the Orossthal (see above); guide necessary, 15 fr. a day. trora Engelherg the summit may also he attained in < — 8 hrs. The Lri-Ki)th- stock is, like the Titlis, almost perpendicular on the E. and 8.E. sides, and is composed of gigantic and contorted limestone rocks, torn asunder and piled one on another in fantastic hut magniticent confusion. The view from the summit is extremely imposing: to the S. is the chain of the Ali)S, with the 8entis at their E. extremity: immediately helow lies the Lake of Lucerne at a depth of 8IAI/; to the X.E. and N. the view emhraces the Kigi, I'ilatus, and the Entlebuch mountains, the lower hills of >". Switzerland, and the plains of liermany. On the ridge between the two peaks of the I ri- Rothstock lies a glacier distinctly visible; on the 1. is the Git^clieii (801);')'), rising abruptly from the lake, with its sununits resembling a castle. Between Fliielen atid Seedorf (1447', the village to the 74 Bonte '23. ALTORF. From lAicerne T.. with a convent"), the Renss (see below) flows into the lake. The valley of the Reiiss is bounded by the huge pyramid of the BrhfenMoek {10.085'). Above Fliielen rise the Great and Little Wwdaelle (10.463'"). 25V,s M. Fluelen (1433'), Ital. Flora (*Adler, R. from 2, P. 11/2, D. 3, A. and L. 1 fr. ; *Kreuz, moderate; Tell; all near the quay; Baths in the lake, on the Axenstrasse , 1/.2 M. from Fluelen. Carriages, see p. 67), the port of Fri. Behind the church is the small castle of Rudenz, which formerly belonged to the family of Attinghausen. The Reuss has been here con- verted into a canal (V2 ^^- "^^alk, or ^^hr. by boat to its influx). The St. Gotthard route, as far as Andermatt, is most interesting ground for the botanist. Altorf (1535') or TJri {""Adler or Post, R. I1/.2, B. 1 fr. ; *Schlussel.; ^Lowe; Sonne'). 2 M. from Fliielen, situated in a fertile valley surrounded by mountains, is the capital of the canton of Uri , with a pop. of 2724 (50 Prot.). The church contains (over the S. entrance) a 'Nativity' by Vandyck; in the N. chapel an 'Entombment' by Carracci; adjacent is a marble Madonna in relief, by H. Imhof of Rome, placed here in 1848. Thi.s pleasant little town f rebuilt after a con f! aeration in 1799) would have little interest for travellers, if tradition did not point it out as the scene of the exploits of Tell, which resulted in the liberation of Switzer- land from the Austrian yoke. — A Colonml Statue of Tcll^ in plaster, pre- .sented to Altorf in 1861 by the riflemen of Ziirich, is said to occupy the spot whence the intrepid archer aimed at the apple placed on the head of his son at the command of the tyrant Gessler. At the base is an inscription from Schiller's Tell. About 150 paces from this stands a fountain, with a statue of Besler, the bailiff of the villasre (on one side of the banner are the arms of the canton, the head of a bull ; on the other the arms of the village), erected at his own expense ! Tradition identifies this spot with that of the lime-tree by which Tell's child stood during the agonizing moment when he awaited the arrow of his father, and which is said to have flourished here till 1567. It is maintained by some that the lime- tree was thirty paces farther back, on the ground where the tower now stands: the latter is, however, known to have existed in the 14th century. On its sides are frescoes representing Tell's celebrated feat with his bow, his leap from the boat, and the death of Gessler, and below: 'The battle with Prince Leopold at Morgarten, Xov. 15th, 1315' (see p. 301). The Capuchin Monastery, above the church, claims to be the most ancient in Switzerland. It commands a beautiful view; so also the neighbouring Pavilion Waldeck. (Ascent by the tower, or above the statue of Tell.) Above the convent lies the Bann- wald, a 'sacred grove', in which the woodman's axe is proscribed, as it protects Altorf from the falling rocks (see Schiller's Tell, Act m. Scene 3). On the r., beyond the town, is situated a Convent, on the 1. the Arsenal; farther on, to the 1. Burglen (1804') (*Tell, mode- rate, suitable for a prolonged stay), a village, picturesquely situ- ated on a height at the entrance of the Schachenthal , the birth- place and home of Tell. The supposed site of his house is to Comn. AMSTAG. 93. Route. /O oociipied by a Chapel^ erected in 1522, the walls of which are painted with scenes from his life. The inhabitants of the Schachenthal [through which a bridle-path leads over the Klan- sen-Pass to the Baths of Stachelberjr fp. 294) in the Linththal], are said to be the handsomest race in Switzerland. The road here crosses the rapid Schachenbach in its artificial bed, near its junction with the Reuss. The large meadow on the r. near the bridge is used as a place of assembly by the cantonal authorities. The Constitution of the Canton of Uri (pop. 14.800, Rom. Cath.) is purely domorratic. The supreme power is vested in the people, who as- semhie on the first Sunday in May in the ahove-mentioned meadow fLands- gpmeindeplatz) to consult on the affairs of the canton. Every male in- habitant who has attained his twentieth year, the clergy excepted, is en- titled to speak. The dignitaries, on horseback, with the Landammann at their head, march in grand procession to the place of assembly; in front is a small detachment of military, next a hand, then the banner of the canton borne by ushers in yellow and black unifonns, followed by two men in ancient costume of the same colours, bearing the two horns of the 'Bull of Uri\ The subjects to be taken into consideration are proclaimed to the assembled multitude from a semi-circular stage erected for the purpose. Each orator is heard in turn, then the voting (by show of hands) begins. At the close of the proceedings, the Landammann and other dig- nitaries resign their powers; they are cither re-elected, or others arc chosen in their stead. The handsome church among fruit-trees on the 1. is that of Schadorf. On the opposite side of the Reuss the church-tower of Atiinghavsen and the ruins of the castle of that name are visible on the r. In this castle Werner von AttlngJiausen, the last but one of his race, mentioned by Schiller in his William Tell, died in 1307. Walter Fiirst fp. 72), one of the three confederates of the Riitli and father-in-law of Tell, was also a native of Attinghausen ; the house now tenanted by Herr Engstler, i.? said to have been his dwelling. 174 ^I- BotzUngen. Near (3 M.) Klus , opposite to the vil- lage of Ersifelden. the road approaches the Reuss. (Path from Erstfelden to the Surenen-Pass see p. 78.) To the 1. rise the rugged peaks of the Little Windgelle, or S€xrel}.icfiHU'i'. io t'omo. AiSDKllMATT, 2 J. iiouU 79 The Valley of liri or Uiseien, which the road enters on emerging from the gloomy Lrner Loch, t'ormb a striking contrast to the savage region just traversed. This peaceful valley (p. ISiSj, with its rich pastures, is watered by the Reu&s, and surrounded by lofty barren mountains partially covered with snow. Before the Keuss had forced a way for itself by the SchoUenen (p. 77), this valley was in all probability a lake. Corn flourishes here to a very limited extent, and trees are scarce. Winter lasts nearly 6 months, and during the brief summer tires are often necessary. The 1400 inhab. of the valley gain their livelihood by feeding cattle, and conveying travellers and tlieir luggage dcross the St. Gotthard. 131/) M. Andei-matt (4730') or Urseren, Italian Orsera {^'St. Gotthard, K. 2, B. IV2, ^- 3, A. 3/4 fr. ; post and telegr. office opposite; Diet Kbniye; ^ Hotel OberaLp , new; *BelLevuej a large new estab. on the Uberalp road; Krone), 1 M. from the Teufelsbriicke, is the principal village (G57 inhab.) of the vaUey. Adjoining the church, which is believed to date from the time of the Lombards, is a charnelhouse , the coping of which is or- namented with skulls bearing inscriptions (comp. p. 47). From the *MariahiLf chapel , above the JSt. Gotthard inn , a good survey of the valley is obtained : in the background the Furca with its inn, to the 1. the Mutthorn ; a few paces behind the chapel, the 8ix-Madun , or Badus (see below), is visible; to the E. in long zigzags ascends the road over the Oberalp (K. 78). The pine -copse at the foot of the Annabery and its glacier, much thinned by the French, Austrians, and Russians in 1799, protects the village from avalanches, and is therefore sacred from the axe of the woodman. The tine Collection of St. Gotthard Minerals of the late chaplain has been purchased by the proprietor of the 'Three Kings', and is exhibited in a small house opposite. — M. xsayer- Donazians has a good collection of minerals and nat. hist, objects for sale at moderate prices. From Andermatt by the Oberalp to Dissentis in the valley of the Vorder-Khein (Grisons), see K. 78. — From Andermatt over the Furca and Grimsel, see KK. 33,32. The Six-Madun or Badus CijG16'), a vast triangular pyramid of rock forming the closing barrier of the (Jberland of the Orisons, is frequently ascended ( in 4i|2 hrs.) from Andermatt ; a fatiguing walk, guide necessary (ascent from Sedrun less laborious and shorter, p. 311). 1 he traveller may then descend to the Toma-8ee tp.311), and thence to the valley of the Vorder-Rhein. The summit, which consists of rugged heaps of gneiss hlocks, commands a view of innumerable peaks of the Alps of the Grisons, Bern, and the Valais, with their snow-lields and glaciers, and of the Vorder- Rheinthal in its entire extent. On the way from Andermatt to Hospenthal the Glacier of St. Anna is a conspicuous object, high above the mountain-ridge on the 1. 80 Route l>:i. ST. (iOTTHAKI). From Lucerne Hospeuthal ( 4787' ) (Meyer hot", a large building boyond the village, R. 2, B. l'J2, D. 3, Pension 6 fr. ; '-'Lowe, more moderate), IV2 ^- from Andermatt, derives its name from a hospice long since suppressed. The tower on the hill is said to be the remains of a castle built by the Lombards. The magazine (Sust) at the end of the village is now disused. The St. Gotthard Road now ascends the mountain in numerous windings through a desolate valley, on the 1. bank of that branch of the Reuss which flows from the Lake of Lucendro, and below Hospenthal unites with the other branch descending from the Furca (p. 139). From its source to Andermatt the Reuss has a fall of 200', and from Andermatt to Fliielen 3000' more. It is crossed for the last time in the canton of Tessin , not far from its source (the Lake of Lucendro., 6834'; to the r., but not visible), by i\ie Rodunt-Bridge {&lb?>'\ I74M. from the culminating poinf of the pass. At the summit of the Pass of St. Gotthard (6936') the road passes between several small lakes. The remark is sometimes made, that although the St. Gotthard is frequently mentioned, it is never seen. This is to a certain extent true, inasmuch as it is not a distinct peak, but an entire mountain-group which bears this name. The peaks to the W. are the Fibbki (8996'), the Pizzo di Vinei, or Lucendro (9708'), the Winterhorn, or Piz Orsino (8750'); farther W. the Leckihorn (10,007'). the Pizzo Pesciora (10,410'), and the Pizzo Rotondo (10.650 ft.). The last of these is the loftiest and least accessible of the St. Gotthard peaks. To the E., immediately above the summit of the pass, rises the Sasso di Sun Goftardo (8983'),- beyond it the Monte Prosa (9849 ft.), and still farther N. E. the *Pizzo Centrale, or Tritthorn (10,006'), erroneously termed Blau- berg on Dufour"s map. The latter has frequently been ascendetl (in 31/2 — 4'/2 hrs.) since the execution of a panorama of the view by Heim (guide 6 fr., and 1 fr. gratuity for each person). Path constructed by the landlord of tlie Hotel de la Prosa. Last part fatiguing. Magnificent view ; the Piz Basodino, the Monte Rosa group, Galenstock, and Todi are the most conspicuous mountains. 10 M. Albergo del S. Gottardo (6867'), post-stat., 1/4 M. to the S. of the culminating point , a large gloomy inn in the Italian style. Opposite to it are the Hospice (telegr. stat.) and the small *H6teL de la Prosa (R. and L. 2, B. 1 fr.), recently erected. The Hospice, erected at the expense of the canton of Ticino , contains 15 beds for poor travellers , who are received gratuitously (upwards of 10.000 are entertained annually). New- foundland dogs of a superior race may be purchased here at prices varying from 75 to 400 fr. St. Gotthard minerals at fixed prices. From the hospice to Airolo is a walk of I72 ^r. (by short cuts), ascent 3 hrs. ; the diligence takes the same time. to Como. AIROLO. 23. Route. 81 In winter and spring the snow is often piled up in heaps 40' high , and sometimes remains unmelted on each side of the road throughout the summer (comp. p. 67). Snow-storms and avalanches are most prevalent on the 8. side. About 172^^- t^ t'le S.E. below the hospice the road crosses the Ticino, which flows from the Sella-See, a lake lying to the E. , not visible. A few min. farther on, near a large mass of rock lying by the road , an inscription near the old bridle-path preserves a memorial of the events of 1799 (p. 68). The words '■Suwarow victor' only are now legible. General Gudin, who was posted at Airolo with a detachment of Lecovirbe's division, was cf)mpelled to retire hefore the superior force of the Russians, though gallantly contesting every inch of the ground. At one moment the well -sustained fire of the French became so murderous that the Russian grenadiers wavered; upon this the veteran Suwarow caused a grave to be dug, in which he lay down, declaring that he would be buried at the spot where 'his children' had retreated for the first time. Humiliated by this spectacle, the Russians were stimulated to new efiVirt.s, and on Sept. 25th. 1799, drove back the French and became masters of the Pass of St. Gotthard. General Schieeikowsky forced a passage through the Soraccia or Canaria valley by a hitherto untraversed route, and attacked the French on the left flank and in the rear. Near the ftrst house of refuge , Cantoniera S. Antonio , the road enters the Val Tremola (Triimmelnthal) , a dismal valley 11/2 M. long, into which avalanches are frequently precipitated"), and descends in numerous windings, which the pedestrian may cut off by taking the old bridle-path at the bottom of the valley, following the telegraph-wires the whole way. Near the second house of refuge, Cantoniera S. Giuseppe (refreshments'), the Val Tremola terminates, and a line *view of the green valley of Airolo, as far as Quinto, is obtained. To the r. is the mouth of the Val Bedretto (p. 140), from which the "W. branch of the Ticino , which afterwards unites with the St. Gotthard branch, descends. 8 M. Airolo (3668') (*Posta, II. 2, B. 1 fr.), the first village in which Italian is spoken, on the Ticino, convenient head-quarters for excursions on the S. slopes of the St. Gotthard. Bridle-path through the Bedretto VaUey over the Xufenen-Pass to Ober- gestelen in the Valais in 8 hrs., see p. 140; or from AIT Acqua over the >s'. Giacomo-Pa.ts (7572') and through the Valle Toggia into the Fnrmazza Valley, to the Falls of the Tosa in 7 lirs.. see p. U3. Or, pa.ssing the liiloni- Hee (eOOLf), through the Piora-VaUi-y over the Coiiw- I'as.^ (7257'), and tlirough the Val Terinine to S. Maria and Dissentis in 10 hrs. (R. 79). — Through the Canaria- Vallei/ over the AVra-/'aA\'! and the L'literalp to Ander- matl (7 hrs.), fatiguing, and on tlie S. side not without danger. Below Airolo the geologically interesting Canaria- Valley opens. The road enters the Stretto (^defile) di Stalvedro, which in 1799 was defended by 600 French against 3000 Russians for 1*2 hrs. (comp. p. 68). The French afterwards retired over the Niifenen into the Valais. The ruins of a marble tower of Lombard origin f which rebound gracefully from their rocky bed. The road, now nearly level, next passes (3 M.) Piotto, C^'A ^^ ) Ambri (to the r. the Piz Massari, opp. Quinto), then (i^/o M.) Fiesso and the insigniticant village of [2 M.j Dazio Grande (3059'). Immediately beyond the inn (very unpretending) the mouth of a second *ravine is reached. The Tirino has here forced a passage for itself through the Platifer (Monte Piottinoj, and precipitates itself in a succession of *cataracts through the gloomy ravine. The road descends the gully close to these '•■'waterfalls, and crosses the river three times. For a distance of 50 paces it runs beneath an overhanging rock, and iy^ M- from Faido again crosses the river. To the r. , before Faido is reached, the Piumeyna precipitates itself by a picturesque fall into the Ticino. IOV2 M. Faido (2366'J, Ger. Pfakl C"' Angela, K. 11/2, L- V2, 1). 1, 8. 21/2! A. 1/2 f^- ? Prince of Wales, new: An5. lioute. 83 of iS. Skcolh da Mira. in the earlif;t Homaiie-jiiuc style. >aid to occupy the site of a heathen tempk*. Beyond Gioriiico to the r. is another picturesque waterfall, that of the Cretnu.iina. ili/2 >i- Bodio (lOSG'j (Hutei de VlUe, or Paste ; Aiyltj. Be- \oiul PoUeggio ('ir^^'j the lirenno emerges from the Val BLeyno and falls into Ihe Ticino. The valley of the 'J'icino now becomes wider, and takes the nanie of the liii-iera, or lUver-valley, as far as the mouth of the Moesa (see below). Luxuriant vines, chest- nuts, walnuts, mulberries, and lig-trees now remijul the traveller of his proximity to 'the garden of the Earth, fair Italy'. The \ines extend their dense foliage over wooden framework supported by stone pillars, iO' to 12' in height. Many of the inhabitants of this valley subsist almo.'st entirely upon the produce of the chestnut-trees. Frequent inundations render the district unhealthy. The next village, '6 M. from Bodio, is Biasca [L'nione^ tolerable), with its old church on an eminence (111*2'). A series of chapels, the 'via crucis\ leads to the Pelroneila-Chapel, whence the view is line. The cellars in the neighbouring rocks serve as storehouses for the wine-merchants of Bellinzona. it is not necessary to pass through Biasca; a branch of the road, in a straight direction, passes it and rejoins the higli-road beyond. I>iligence from Biasca to Olivone, and bridle-path to Dissentis by the Lukmanier, see R. 79. (i'Yi -^i- Osogna (Uu4'), at the foot of an abrupt rocky peak with rounded summit. The next villages are Cresciano (8b6'), with picturesque waterfalls; Claro (lU'2i'), at the base of a mountain (81)'24') of the same name . one of the most beautiful and fertile in .Switzerland, on which the convent of S. Maria (2074') is situated. Then over the Moesa, which descends from the Bernardino (p. 363), to Arbedo (bl3'), celebrated as the scene of the sanguinary and unequal struggle of June 30th, 1422, when 3000 Confederates were defeated by 24,000 Milanese. From a distance, the aspect of liellinzona with its lofty walls and turrets (which formerly extended into the valley), its three castles and extensive barracks at the N. gate, is striking and imposing. The luxuriance of the vegetation and the beautiful forms of the neighbouring mountains increase the charm of the picture. 91/2 M. Bellinzona (^ th to the end of the iSth cent, the ft>rmer remained in 84 Route 24. STANS. undisturbed possession. The Abbey-Church adjoining the po?t- office is a fine building in the Italian style of the 16th cent. The three picturesque Castlft) were the residences of the three Swiss Bailiffs (conip. p. 82). in whom the judicial and executive authority was vested. Each of the castles possessed a small garrison and a few cannons. The largest, the Castello Grande, on an isolated eminence to the W., be- longed to Uri: it is now used as a prison and arsenal-, visitors are readily admitted (gratuity to guide). Of the other two, on the E., the lower, the Castello di Mezzo, belonged to Schwyz : the \ipper, the Castello Corbario or Corb^ (1502'), now in ruins, to Unterwalden. The view from the Castello Orande is striking and beautiful ; that from the elevated Chapel of S. Maria della Salute not less so. A bridge of 14 arches . 300 paces long , here crosses the Ticino , which in summer is so low that 9 or 10 of the arches are dry. The banks are protected from inundations by a stronji embankment, 2287' long friparo tondo). From Bellinzona to Como and Camerlata, see R. 92; to Magadino, see R. 94: to Milan, see R. 99. 24. From Lucerne to Altorf by Stansstad and Engelberg. Surenen. Camp. Map. p. G6. Steamboat three times daily between Lucerne and Stansstad in 1(2 hr.. see p. 87; Omnibus (1)2 fr.) from Stansstad to Stans five times daily in 20 min.. in connection with the steamboats. Diligence from Beckenried (p. 70) to Stans twice daily, fare 95 c. From Stans to Altorf 11 hrs. : carriage-road as far as Engelberg. thence by a footpath. The traveller should arrange to sleep at Engelberg, 13i[2 M. from Stans. A guide (10 fr.) is required for the passage of the Surenen to Altorf, a walk of 7 hrs. : but only necessary , in the reverse direction , from Altorf to the summit of the pass (6 fr.). From Lucerne to Stansstad see p. 88. Stansstad fp. 88) is about 21/2 M- from Stans. Oue-horse carriage from Stansstad to Engelberg 12 fr. , two-horse 20 fr. Travellers are recommended to dismiss their vehicle at Grafenort (9 M. distant, a drive of 1^/4 hr., one-horse carr. 6 fr.), beyond which the road becomes so steep that passengers are frequently rompelled to alight and proceed on foot fone-horse carr. from Beckenried [p. 70] to Engelberg 15 fr. and 2 fr. gratuity). Stans or Stanz (* Krone, R. 1, B. 1 fr. ; '^Engel; * Pension Jlotzbenj . i^/.2 fr.). the capital of Xidu-alden, the E. portion of the canton of Unterwalden, with 2070 (Rom. Cath.) inhab., lies in a rich and fruitful valley, although illuminated by the sun from Nov. 11th to Febr. 2nd only one hour in the morning. Above it rise the IIohe-Briesen (7895') and the Stanserhorn (p. 85). Stans has acquired a melancholy celclmty in the annals of modern warfare. When the Swiss cantons were summoned by the French to swear allegiance to the new Helvetian Republic (1798), this town, with the whole canton of Vnterwalden, refused to appear. The French general Srhaiienburg advanced from Lucerne, Sept. 3rd. 1798. with 16,(X)0 men, and f-ndeavoured to oflect an entrance into Stansstad under cover of artillery placed by him at the foot of Pilatus. The inhabitants of Unterwalden threw up strong intrenchments along the banks of the lake, and kept the enemy ill check from tlie 3rd to the 8th Sept. The French then forced a passage ENGELBERG. 24. Route. bb h\ land liy Alpnacli, tnok tlie iiiliTnchiiieiils alter an obstinate resistance, and advanced with a tiirn»idatile army to Stans, wliere a t'riglittul massacre ensued. The numbers were t'eart'ully disproportionate — 16. fJU to 20UU; women and children took part in llie conflict. animate. HUj and his grandson. Adjoining the church is the * Monument of Arnold von Winkelried (p. 14). a tine group in marble, but badly placed. A tablet by the Burial Chapel in the churchyard bear?* an inscription in memory of victims of the French massacre. The Town Hall contains portraits of all the badills from the year 1521: beneath is a collection of Unterwalden tlags; also two French banners of 171)8; a picture by the blind artist W iirsch, who perished in 1798; another by Volmar, representing Brother Klaus taking leave of his family. In the Arsenal is preserved the coat of mail of Arnold von Winkelried; on the road to .Sarnen (I72 ^^- to the W., p. HUj is a Chapel dedicated to his memory (see above). Beautiful vie>v from the Knieri, above the Capuchin Monastery. The Stanser Horn (6232') is ascended from Stans, or from the Kozloch (p. SSj, in 3 hrs. The path from Stans is the better; the two routes unite on the Bluinalp. View remarkably line. — The ascent of the Buochser Horn (5938') (4 hrs.) is less recommended. The road to P^ngelberg (13 ','2 M. from .Stans) tirst traverses rich meadows. To the 1. the Wallenstocke (8G1'2'J; in the background rises the Titlis (p. 80), with its glaciers and ttebU of snow. Between Thalwyl and Wolfenschiess (4 M.) the roail crosses the Engelherger Aa; high up on the 1. lie the chalets of Rickenbach. The next village is (21^2 -^"^0 Orafenort (1868'), which con- sists of a chapel, an inn, and a farm belonging to the Abbey of Engelberg (7 M. from Engelberg). About ^2 ^I- larther the road ascends, and traverses a forest for upwards of 4 M., on emerging from which the impetuotis Aa is approached. The ice-clad Titlis stands forth majestically ; then to the 1. the (irosst and Kleine Spannorter (7H71'j, whose rocky peaks rise from amidst glaciers and snow-ftelds. The green Alpine valley of Engelberg, () M. in length and y^ M. in width, bounded on three sides by lofty, snow-capped mountains, is now suddenly disclosed to view. At tlte entrance of the valley, above the buildings of Engelberg (3201') (* Zwm Titlis. pens. 5— 8 fr. ; '^ Engel, 86 Route -JJ. riTLJS. fr. : ^Sonnenberg, new : '"Pension Midler, '^Knytlbery ; private rooms at Dr. Cattani's and elsewhere; usual charges, R. IV/9, B. 1, I). 2 I'r., -vvhey also procurable. Eut/ene Hess and Jos. Amrein, good guides"), rises the stately Benedictine Abbey of the same name, founded in the 12th cent., termed by Pope Calixtus XI. Mons Anqelorum, re-erected after a conflagration in 1729. The 'C luirch contains modern pictures hy JJescfncanden, Kaiser, and mirsrfi (p. 85). High altar-piece an Assumption hy Spiecfler , 1734. In the chapter-house two transparent pictures by Kaiser, the Conception and the Nativity. The Library^ althoufih robbed of its {rreatest treasures by the French in I79S. still boasts of several valuable MSS. and specimens i>f early pvinfina: (among others, a Mamotrectus of 1470). A well-executed relief of the f^ntrelbercer valley may also be inspected. The hours of admission can be ascertained at (he hotels. The educational institution connected with the Abbey is iti high repute. The farm-buildings, with the dwellings for the labourers, are extensive; upwards of 1000 cheeses are frequently stored in the large *cellar. The revenue^ of the abbey, to which the entire district was formerly subject, were considerably im- paired by the French in 1798. Kngelberg is the residence of the talented wood-carver ^10.0- (leinua Custer. It is protected from the N.E.. and is well-suited for a ^tay of some duration. Numerous short excursions may be made in this neighbourhood: of the longer, the following deserve mention : Ascent of the liUjidal.ttork (9()94'). 4'i-2 hrs., the la.st hour laborious, line panorama: of the Widder/ehl, 4 Ins.. less fatiguing. Tcilnchbar/ifall ut\<1 nerrenreiiti see below. The 'Titlis f 10.657'). rising on the S.E.. may be ascended (with guide. 10 fr. and a gratuity) in 7 — 8 hrs. from Endelberg. It is advisable to proceed iin tlie evening ])revious to the ascent to the (2i|2 hrs.) Triibsee-AIp (riding feasible thus far), where a bed of hay may he fibtained (2 fr. 1). and to start the ne.xt morning at 2 a. m.. in order that the snow may be traversed before the heat of the day. Those who make the ascent from Engelberg direct frequently start at midnight with lanterns. Above the Triibsee-Alp. on the Statid, the paths from Engelberg and the Engstlen-Alp unite. Beyond this point the path ascends a steep slaty acclivity in zigzags, then over rugged limestone rocks to the glacier ( Rothegy), the first portion of which is covered with soft snow : by a slight depression, the route passes between hmg fissures: the ascent then Viecomes more rapid, steps being hewn if the 'Firn' is hard enough : still higher, a broad gently-sloping field of snow is traversed. The large crevasse which it crosses presents no difliculty : slate-rocks and snow are next encountered, and after an ascent of 2 hr^^. over fields rif ice and snow the summit is attained. The, highest n)unded point (room for 20 persons) is called the XoUen. Thi> view, whicti is highly picturesque and imposing, extends over the entire Alpine chain from Savoy to the Tyrol. !K. Switzerland, and S. Germany. The ascent of the Titlis. although requiring considerable perseverance, i.s perhaps the least difllcult of all glacier excursions. Over the Joch Pass to Meiringen in 10 hrs.. see K. 3(.): \\\» other patli- bad to the Melchthal. see p. 89. On the path hence to Altorf is the picturesque waterfall of The Tat.^rhbarh (40 min.) wliich flows from the Hahnen- or Engel- tierg: 25 min. farther the chalet Herrenreuti (breakfast may be obtained here), belonging to the Abbey of Engelberg. is reacheil, SIKKNKN PASS. -J I. lioiitr. "^ / From tliis point a view is obtained of the ^rla«•iel•^ ol the Urassen (9140') and Faulblatten. The Stierenbach forms a beautiful cas- cade about 1 lir. farther. Near some chalet?, 4 livs. walk from Engelberjr and IV4 br. from the Surfenen Pass, snow-flelds are encountered in tlie early summer , but disappear as the season advances; beyond the pa^s they remain the whole year, and must be traversed for a considerable distance. The Sur^nen Pass, or Surienen Eck fToTS'). separates the Blackenstock (9685'") and Iri-Rothstock (96'21') on the 1. ^ fron. the Schlossherg (10,286') on the r. The Titlis increases in grandeur as the traveller ascends, and ii long unbroken range of summits and glaciers extends as far a* the Sur^nen. On the other side the prospect embraces the summits of the two mountain-ranges enclosing the Schachen- thal, which opens on the opposite side of the Reuss; the Wind- gelle is one of the most conspicuous; in the extreme distance the horizon is bounded by the snowy crest of the Glarnisch. On the E. side of the Surenen the snow-fleld is of greater extent. ;ind the path more precipitous. It then leads over loose stones to the Waldnacht-Alp, where the path divides : r. over the bridge to ICr.itf'elden (p. 75), from wliich route the beautiful Fall of the Wahlnacfitbnrh or Langebuch is visible; 1. to Attinghau.ten and Altorf (p. 74). .V French divisit>n under Lccoui))e a(ivanc«^(l in 1799 across the Sureueu info the Iieus3 valley, and attacked the Au.strians. hut was soon obliged (o retreat, as Suwarow pressed forward witli his troops from the .St. Ootthard (p. 68). 25. From Lucerne over the Brunig to Brienz (and Meiringen). Co III J). Jfap.i pp. 6'')*. !'8. 136314 M. Steamboat from Luce rut Xo Slaiisstad in ',-' I"'-: i>> Alpnach- (•estad in 11(4 lir. ; Post-omnibus from Alpnach-Gestad to Brienz in 6. in Meiriiifjen in S'U hrs. From Brienz travellers may at once proceed (steamboat corrosptnul.s with diligence) to Iiilerlaken, and thence to .Veufiaus and Thuii ( >>rher:l>(itii)., whence railway to Bern. One day. there- fore, now suffices for the journey from Zurich to Intcrlaken, or for that from Lucerne to Bern. Through-tickets to Inferlakon are obtained at the post-ofllcc (branch- r>flice next door to the Engl. Hof) in Lucerne (in which ca.se the coup*' may be secured), or on board the sleauiboats : froni Lucerne to Brienz 7 fr. 60 c, to Interlaken coupe I'i fr. 10 0.. 40 lbs. luggage free. — Diligence frtmi Beckenried (p. 70) to Stans in 1 hr.. fare 05 c. ; from Stans to Stansstad Post -omnibus (','2 fr.) r> times daily in connection with the steamboats. — From Lucerne to Stansstad and Stans by land, see p. .Hi and below. Carriages. Two-horse from Lucerne to Brienz or Meiringen 70 to SO fr. P'roni Stansstad to Sachseln one-hors(^ 8 fr.. two-horse 15 fr. : (o Lnngern 15 — 25 fr. From Alpnarfi-destad to L>u\gern one-horse 1*2 fr., two- horse 20 fr. : to Brienz one-horse 18 — 20, two-horse 30 — 32 fr. . always to be had. — From Beckenried to Liuigern two horse 25 — 3l^ fr. Rowing-boats (comp. p. 06) from Lucerne to Stansstad in 2 hrs. with two rowers A';.' fr. •- to Alpnach-Oestad in 3 hrs. 5'i'-.« fr. Pedestrian^ who propose lo proceed direct from the Rigi to the 88 Route -Jd. ALPNACH-GE.^TAD. From Lucerne Briinig, may find the following direcli(nis useful. Breaklast on tlie liigi- descend to Wiiggis (in '2^i-z In-s.J. ihonce by small boat (twit men 6 ti-.. three 8 fr., four lU fr., and gratuity of '|2 fr. for each rower) to Alpnach- Gestad, in ^'J-j — 3 hrs. (luncheon in boat); from Alpuach-Gestad by car- riage to Sachseln (6 31.) and thence on foot; or the whole distance to Meiringen (25'|2 J^I-) may be performed on foot. The Road from Lucerne to Alpnach- G es t ad leads first along the wild Krieiisbach, then Ijy Horn (1678') with its picturesquely situated church, to Winkel (-Stern, unpretending), a village on the bay of the lake described below, and along its bank to Htrgiswyl ( Rossli, li. 1 fr.. B. 1 fr.). whence a bridle-path ascends Pilatus (p. 53). The road now skirts the base of the Lopper (see below) on the bank of the lake, and at the Ac/ien- biiicke (see below) reaches the Lake of Alpnach, on the N.W. bank of which it leads to Alpnach-Gestad (see below). When the central point of the lake is reached (see p. 69j the steamboat enters the bay of Stansstad ; at the foot of the steep Biirgenstock , to the 1., lies the little village of Kirsiten: farther back, to the r., at the foot of Pilatus. is Hergiswyl (see above). The bay extends N. as far as WinkeL (see abovej, near which is the bold promontory of Spitzen-Eck^. The steamboat steers S. to Stansstad (1433') (Zum Winkelried; Rossii; Schliissel; Freihof). i^tad , ^taad, or Gestade , signifies a landing-place or harbour; Stansstad is therefore the 'harbour of Stans'. A square tower with pinnacles, termed the Schnitz-Thurm, which rises on the bank , was erected by the Swiss in 1308 , as a protection against the assaults of the Austrians, from whose yoke they had emancipated themselves. The E. spur of Pilatus, the Lopper. extends far into the lake. Its base is skirted by the above-described road between Lucerne and Alpnach. The brook on the opposite bank, which falls into the lake at Stansstad, has deposited so much detritus that the connection between the Al nach lake and the Lake of Lucerne has become very narrow. This arm of the lake is now crossed by an embankment and a bridge (Achenhrucke); the latter is raised to permit the passage of the steamboats. Above the Bay of Alpnach rises the Rozberg (2132'J, separated from the Platti- berg by the *Rozloch , a narrow ravine , in which the Mehlbach forms several waterfalls and turns the water-wheels of the paper manufactory. The pleasant *Pension Bldttler (p. 49) is here situated on the lake, amidst gardens and orchards; adjacent are sulphur-baths. The ascent of the Biirgenstock (27-2 hrs.) forms a pleasant excursion, see p. 69. The Footpath from Stansstad to Sachseln skirts the lake for a short distance, and then enters this narrow pass. At Allweg (2'J4 M. from Stansstad), where there is a chapel in memory of ^^'inkelried (pp. 14, 85) ("Pension and whey-cure estab.), the path joins the High-road to Sar- nen (no diligence). At the village of Kerns ("Krone) (wrestling matches on the 1st of August), 2'(4 31. from Sarnen , the scenery becomes more picturesque. The direct road from Kerns to Sachseln, etlectiug a saving of liJ2 M., does not pass through Sarnen, but crosses the entrance of the Melchthal (see p. 89). Alpnach-Gestad (*H6tel Pilate or Post, on the lake, R. 2, B. 1, L. and A. 1 fr. : Stern; Rossli) is the harbour for the village of to lirienz. SAKNEN. 26. Route. 89 Al^na.ch { iVM ' } ( ScldiUiei ; Sonne). I'/i -^1- !• broad, is well stocked with lish. Pedestrians effect a saving of ^o hr. by rowing to the other end of the lake (2 fr.). The Valley of Sarnen . although pleasing and picturesque , has no pretension to the grandeur of Alpine scenery. Beautiful view to the ^V. from the Sckwendiberg . E. of Sarnen is the Melchthal, a romantic valley, 15 M. in length, .studtied with numerou.s rustic duellings, and enclosed by lofty mountaina illoc/i.ttollen, 8154'; Lauberstock\ 838'J'). At the upper end is the Melchset (.0427') (p. 130), whose waters are lost in a cleft of the rock, and 3 31. below re-appear as the Melch Aa. From the village of the same name an in- teresting i)ass leads over the Juchli (7131') to Engelberg (p. 85) in G hrs., and another over the iitorvf(jSt. AikUm.'itii (2622'), or St. Klaus., the lirst Christian church erected in tliis district; adjacent is an ancient tower, termed by the natives HeUleutlinnn (Heathens" lower). Nearly opposite, 3 31. from Sarnen, is tlie Ranfl (i. e. brow of the mountain), formerly u barren wilderness, with the hermitage of 8 t. Nikolaus von der Flue, much of the woodwork of which, as well as fragments of the stone which served him for a pillow, have been carried away by relic-hunters. The family name of the Saint was Loirenhiiuj(jer., but living near a precipice (Fliie) in the vicinity of Sachselu, he acquired the name of yikolaii.'i ron der Fliie. Here he passed the greater part of his life with his family and ten children, tilling his farm, and attending to his worldlv alVairs. He was 90 Hoate i>o. BHlNKi. indii.*tri(ius ami of irreproacliablc character. ;i^ a .-ioldicr luavo and humane, aud a.« a provincial co\insellor talented and upright. At the same time he po.ssessed .«:tron? relitrious predilections and an insatiable thirst after knowledfre. In his fiftieth year he retired altogether from public life. Tradition says that for the iirst 20 years of his seclusion he subsisted en- tirely upon the sacramental elements, of which he partook monthly. All who wore in trouble or in need of advice resorted to the holy man and derived comfort from his sagacious counsels. After the successful termi- nation of the war agrainst Charles the Bold of Burgundy, the Federal de- puties assembled at Staus, but not agreeing concerning the division of the spoil and the incorporation of Solothurn and Freiburg in the Confedera- tion, were about to separate on no friendly terms, when Brother Klaus entered the chamber. At the appearance of this venerable man. the sanc- tity of whose character was universally kno\vn. the deputies arose and iireeted him with respectful salutations: (according to the chronicle) his pacilic eftbrts were signally Idessed, for in one hour every thing was ami- cably arranged. After hi- death he was canonised: his memory is still re- vered by the populace, and there is scarcely a hut in irnterwalden that does not possess a portrait of Brother Klaus. The handsome *Church (in631 of the villasre of Sachseln (Kreuz; Enqel; Lowe) witli a portal of marble pillars, contain^ the bone^ of St. Nikolaus. with several other variable relics. The village of {?>^!^ M.j Giswyl fl673'l C^Krone); situated between the lakes of Sarnen and Lnngern. was partially destroyed in 16*29 by inundations of the Lcwibach. A lake was thus formed, which 130 years later was artificially eonductcd into the Lake of Sarnen. Fine view from the churchyard. On the slope to the 1. the ruin> of the ancient castle of the r-on Rudenz family are seen. The summit of the Brienzer liothfioni, p. 12(i. may be reached from (^iswvl in 6 hrs. ; the path for the first 3 hrs. is good, afterwards precipitous. The road now ascends (for 2 M.) the Kaiserstuhl (2326') r*KaiscrstuhV). and by Bilrf/len on the heijiht reaches the Lake of Lungern (2162') (the three peaks of the Wetterhorn stand out to the S.J. the E. bank of which it flVo ^I-) skirts; I1/.2M. farther, the large village of Lungern, built entirely of wood, situated in a mountain-basin, is attained. Lungern (2165') (Hotel Briinig ; Loxce) is situated at the foot of the Briinig and the S. end of the lake, but at some distance from its bank . as the drainage has diminished its size by one-half. A picturesque waterfall of the Dundelsbach pre- cipitates itself over the rocks on the W. side. The new post-road over the Briinig ascends by nnmerou^ windings through the wood, affording occasional views, till it rearhes the summit of the Brunig pass f3648'), near which the • anton of Berne is entered. Beyond the pass are situated an old custom-house (Hotel Briinigkulm) and the Hotel du Briinig. Magnilicent prospect from the Wylerhorn (6282'). I hr. S.W. of the Briinig, 3 hrs. from Brienz. The new road to (01/4 M.) Meiringen descends to the 1. at the custom-house. As the road to (6 M.) Brienz is descended, the Engelhoruer (p. 123) become visible. The hamlet of Briinig, KMI.Kr.r( If. -JfJ. Hontc. \U a fhort distance below the pass, lies to tlic I. ainit irreeii pastm-es. To the 1. a view of the valley from Meiriiij^en to Ini- Hof fp. 13*21 and of Meiriiii^eii itself, is now enjoyed; at the foot of the S. nioniitain-ran.ce to the 1. . the lower fall of the Reichenbarli fp- l'2.-V) is visible: in a straight direction the fall of the Oltschibach (p. 125); in the valley the river Aare . and to the r. a portion of the lake of lirienz. The road gradually descends, occasionally steep, by Brienzvyler (Bar) to the Bridge of Brienzn-yler , where it unites with the high road from Mei- ringen to Brienz. From this point to Brienz, as well as to Meiringen, see p. 1Q5. 26. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal. ')l-',i .M. l)i 1 ineiif .; to Hschol/inalt in G',4 ■ I" l.^uignau in S lir~. i; ail way from Laiicnau to Kf-rn in I hr.: fares 4 fr.. 2 fr. 80 c.. 2 fr. The road passes through Littaii. St. .7o.*^ Maliers, and Srhaohen. The old road hero ascends by .steep windingf.s. lya.s.tjinp the Tiathx of I'antbiihl (in.stic) to the Bvamegy ('3612'). A view of Pilatus, the Ripi, and the AJp'' "f Schwvz and T'ri from the inn. The road then de.seends to Kntl.'bnch. The high ro^id. which the diligence follows, skirts the base of the Brameoih i)assiiig the monastery of WerihenMein, and reaches 1'2^/k M. Wohlhausen f 1889'). [On the Menzherg. at the foot of the Napf (Vce below) is a sanitary establishment of some re- pute.] The road, following the course of the Emme , now leads S. to Entlebuch ('240*2') (*Hutel du Port; *Drei Konige). where the Entlenbach unites with the Kleine Emme which water^r the Enilehuch, a valley about 30 M. long. On both sides are lofty mountains, which do not, however, reach the snow-line. The breed- ing of cattle and manufacture of cheese are the principal pur- suits of the inhabitant^, who are remarkable for their intelligence and activity. Wrestling-matches see Introd. XVI. The Napf (f) 101'). W. of Kntlehuch. the .summit of which commands a inntrniru-ent view, i.s frequently ascinded ( 3 hr.s. ) from Entlebuch or Truhschaclitn (s'-e below |: *'"• latter i.s the more convenient route, pa.ssinp tlie villaur of 7V//?) ( Innl. I'lmin. to the ^.E. of Truh^chachen. C'arriaee- road a.s far as Trult. Beyond Schiipfheiin ('230(V), the principal village of the val- ley, rebuilt after a fire in 18*29, the road quits the valley of the Wald-Emme fby which a road to the 1. leads to Sorenherg. I I ' 2 M. : thence to the Brienzer Rothhorn, an a>cent of 0\!-2 hrs.. p. r2H). and ascends the valley of the Wei.s-se Emme to 13"/.^ M. Escholzmatt ('280?') (*Loir€; Krone), a scattered village. tlu> last in the F.ntlebuch. Wyssenhach f*Inn) is on the Lucerne frontier. The road now enters the canton of T^eru. and follows the cour-e of the Hpi . passing h'rosrJteijbrinin . Trub- schachen . and a liandsome Hospital (for 100 orphans and 300 }>auper>). an edifice hi.iihly ereditable to tlu- -kill of the Kmmeii- thal carpenter^, 92 Route 28. BERN. Hotels. IQi/s M. Langnau ('2'20')') {'^'JloLei Emmenthal; ''■'Hirsch, R. 2, L. 7-25 ^- ^7-2 li'-; ^-''«-e;, a thriving villa.^e with 5886 iuhab., is the capital of the Emmenthal, a valley about 30 M. long, 12 — 15 M. wide, watered by the Jifis and the Grosse Emme, and one of the richest and most fertile in Switzerland. Its wooden houses enjoy a high repute, and are sometimes exported. The cheese produced here is much esteemed. Luxuriant and carefully cultivated meadows, a tine breed of cattle, and com- fortable dwellings with well kept gardens , all aitord evidence that the Emmenthal is peopled by an industrious and prosperous race. A monument at Langnau was erected in 1849, to the memory of the men of Bern who fell during the w ar of the Sepa- rate League in 1847. Railway. The train, after leaving Langnau, crosses the Jlfis, then the Emme, and passes the thriving villages of Emmenmatt, Siynau (BarJ, and Zaziwyl. It then skirts the Hornberg in a wide curve, and passes Konolfinyen, Tdgertscki, and Worb {Jionne\ Lowej, the latter a wealthy place, with an ancient castle. Pleasing glimpse of the 8tockhorn chain to the 1. From stat. Gumlingen (^1850') on the Bern and Thun line to Bern, see p. 99. 27. From Lucerne to Bern by Aarburg and Herzogenbuchsee. ?lij2 31. Central Swiss Kail w a v. In 4 to b^l-> lirs. Fares 12 fr. 5. 8 fr. 50, 6 fr. lU c. From Lucerne to Aarburg, see R. 6; from Aarburg to Her- zogenbuchsee, see R. 3; from Herzogenbuchsee to Bern, see R. 5. 28. Bern. Hotels. "^'Berner Hof (PI. a), adjacent to the Federal Council Hall, It. y fr. and upwards, L. 1 , B. l')-.. , 1). excl. \V. at 1 oVl. 4, at o ocl. 4Vj, A. I fr. (newspapers; baths in the ho. el); ■'Hotel Bellevue, adjoining the Mini (PI. lyj , less expensive; both these hotels command a full view of the Alps. Opposite the staiicm : "^'.Sch w eizerho f (1^1. bj, a little to the 1. on leaving the station, K. 2 fr. and upwards. B. I'j-^, D. at I'i'ja o'cl. 3, at 5 o'cl. 4, A. 3j4 fr. ; immediately to the 1. as the station is quitted, 'Boulevard, with spacious apartments, R. 2iJ2, !>• 3, B. fija fr. ; ''Hotel de France, near the station and the post-office, K- I'l-.;, B. 1 fr. — In the town: ' Faucon (PI. d), K. and L. 2i,-2, B. Iij2, D. 3, A. 1 fr. : 'Pfistern {Abbaije des Jioulangers, PI. ej, near the clock-tower. 'Storch (PI. k); Jlohr (PI. f): Affe (PI. g): Schmieden (Marec/iaux, PI. h): We hern , Marktgasse; these five last are all good second-class houses. — Unpretend- ing : bchlussel (PI. 1.) ; Bar; * \\ i 1 d e r 31 a n n , in the Aarberger Str., Li. Iij4, B. 1, D. inch W. 2 fr. — Pensions Jaggi and Mettenhof, outside the Murtenihor; Pension Zimme r w al d (p. DS). — Hotel el Pension Schanzli, see p. 97. Restaurants, etc. K ai Iw ay-Res ta u ran t. Near the station the '"Restaurant du Boul^evard (see above); 'Cafe du !Nord, at the egress from the station: at the Schweizerhof (see above); Cafe Casino near the Toun-hall, terrace with complete view of the Alps. At the pavilion on the M tins t er- T erras se (p. 95), coflee. iERiNu i'Ai.r> a '^1 r^ # Fountains. BERN. 28. Route. 01^ toa . ices (. '|4 and V-J *'">i '"'•>' '^t' obtained after I p. m. (Sundays after 4 p. ni.); occasionally concerts in the evening. — Outside thr town: =Cafe .Schanzli. now Hotel et Pension des Et rangers (PI. E. 2. 'Rabenthal-Scliiinzli', p. 97), beyond the Railway bridge (>i2M.) on the lofty r. bank of the Aare, to the E. near the new Botanic Oarden, magnificent view; 'Cafe in der Enge (p. 97), 1 M. beyond the Aarberg Gate. Bootmaker recommended to mountaineers: Riesen. Spitalgasse. Zahnd's Museum, untere Alpenegg 223 d, an extensive collection of stuffed groups of Alpine animals. Baths. Sirimminy-Bath at the Holzplatz, below the Bernerhof. River- Baths below the Unter-Thor Bridge, near the ' Pelikan \ The water of the Aare is very cold. — Warm Zfa^As (also Turkish, etc.) at Staub"s, outside the Murtener Thor. in the Laupenstrasse. Carriages. One-horse, drive within the town 1 pers. 40 c.; >|4 ^r. 1—2 pers. 80 c., 3 — 4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.. every additional 'U hr. 40 or 60 c. Two- horse, at the same fares as for 3 or 4 pers. with one horse. Each box 20 c. small articles free. From 10 p. m. to 6 a. m., double fares. For the entire day. i. e. over 6 hrs., 1—2 pers. 12 fr., 3—4 pers. 18 fr. Railway Station near the church of the Holy Ghost, at the W. end of the town. Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 21), near the station to the N., entrance in the centre ; branch-office in the Kramgasse. English Church Service in the chapel of the Biirgerspital (PI. 23). Principal Attractions. If the traveller's time is limited, he should first visit the Miinster-Terrasse (Zahringer monument); iliinstcr- jdatz (monument of Erlach), Miinz - Terrasse (PI. 19), Casino- terrace anern has best preserved its characteristic features. Most of the numerous fountains are adorned with >tatues. The most ^ingular is the *Kindlifresser-Brunnen (Fountain of the Ogre, PI. 7). in the Corn-liall-^quarc. near the Clock-tower. It is surmounted by a grotesque ligure in the act of devour- ing a child . while several others , doomed to the same fate, protrude from lijs pocket and girdle ; beneath is a troop of armed 94 J!nufe. O'S, ftKKN. Cathedral. bearc. The hear, the hei'aldio eraMom of Bern, i? a «-oii5t,aiitly recurring: object. Bruii) appears on the neighbouring Bdren- hrunnen, equipped with shield, sword, banner, and helmet. Two gigantic bears, tolerably executed in granite, keep guard /^ over the pillars of the (W, j Upper-Gate; others support a shield in the pediment of the Corn-Hall (PI. il)^ a handsome building, which till 188U always contained a store of corn in case of fa- mine (beneath it is u spacious wine-cellar frequently visited by strangers). A whole troop of bears go through a performance at the ^Clock-Tower (PI. 'I'd). Ai ;J luin. before every hour a wooden cock gives the signal liy clapping its wings and crowing; 1 inin. later the bears march round a sealed ligure, and a harlequin indicates the number of the hour by strik- ing a bell. The cock then repeats his signal, and when the hoar strikes, the seated ligure, an old man with a beard, turns an hour-glass and counts the hour by raising his sceptre and opening his mouth; while the bear on his r. does the same by inclinations of his head: at the same time a stone ligure in the tower above strikes the hour on a bell with a hammer. The cock concludes the performance by crowing for the third time. This spectacle always attracts a number of admirers. The Llock-tovver is now almost in the centre of the town, but ar the lime of its erection (.in- scription: • Bert/ioldus V. dux Zae>iit{/iat , rect. Burgund., urbis conditor turriin et portam fecit a. C/u: lldl, renoc. 1770) it was at the E. ex- tremity, and served as a watch- to>\ er. Another lower of similar con- struction stands in the same street, the Kafifjihiinn (PL 8), farther \V.. now used as a prison. ^ The *Cathedral (PI. loj, a tine Gothic structure, '260' long, ''" il2' broad, 7G' high, commenced in 14'2i , completed in 157o, restored in 1850, is remarkable for its beautiful decorations and the open-work Balustrade of the roof, the design of which varies between each pair of pillars. The W. Portal is particularly handsome; the carvings represent the Last Judgment: at the sides the upper figures are the Prophets . the lower the Apostles and the Wire and Foolish Virgins. The unftnished Tower, 234' high, is covered \vith an unsightly tiled roof. The entrance to the tower-stairs is by the side-door in the ^^ . portal. By ascending 'I'l'd steps, the visitor reaches the lodge of the tower-keeper and a gallery commanding a beautiful view. The tower-keeper (I/2 fr.j exhibits a diagram showing the relative proportions of all the largest bells in the world. Interior (admission iJO c. for each pers.). The Choir contains some remarkable specimens of Stained Glass., dating from the loth cent., that of one window representing the dogma of Transubstantiation, that of an- other the Life of Christ. The Choir - Stalls (lol2) on one side are orna- mented with carvings of the Apostles: on the other, Prophets. The re- juainder of the church is almost destitute of ornament. The organ, said to rival the celebrated instrument at Freibui-g ('performance almost every evening in summer, at dusk, adm. 1 fr. , families 2 fr.) . is supported by a vaulted loft, constructed in Itii.S. The cathedral boasts of two Monuments only : one to Berthold von Ziihringen, the founder of Bern (see p. 95), erected by the ci(y in lOOU; and the other U) the magistrate Friedrich von Steiger^ .surrounded by six slabs of black marble bearing the names of the 7U'2 men of Bern who fell March 5th. 1798, at Grauholz, 6 31. to the N. of Bern near tlie Zollikofeii sialinn (p. 13). in an encounter with the French. H: Height aboye the sea -level E : Distance ia a direct liae in Swi 'IitJi': linjmg Enen-z Qiftsr'bacL ^v1k-::j;s1»- \f. Name 11. IK.i /-J r//r SchfaUrn ini Ccutf .Lii' tej'n , rerhls uoii der ^n A'mme : 1 Oamsclii^r . 9 z Thifrweld esoo 9 ■i Mttrual|)ln>n4s(r f SlrinwMi^n. G300 9 i Srbeiben^uUfh 6280 8\ 6] ?i(./6 H.am Brienter See , 6 Ore me o. Hern mitLuaejm a . (fbwulilen : 6 Brien/fi-Rollih* ?n« 10'* 7 Taniih . 6532 9\ ii: ratn OberhasU , 8 (rrenze r. Bern init Crijeiiseils, 9 (Hess, lies Tri/^engithchcrs. (JH/^e/iArY. Ilm(erlhi('pl). lO'iSfi »% Dipchleph. 9950 16 /0-/,i ihis HohqaM, die^stiis derqr.Kmm^ .die o (in iAm ml' spring, n . voai J/aMem/A : BaMt^tHrnfl. _ J «N Fw^^en^iiUrK 1 ft7?? t (laklislrittn Kriniie H Height above the sea level m Fans feet staure in a dirert line in Snss leagues ( U 3m{»M VIEW OF THE ALPS FROM BERN FROM THE TERRACE BY THE FEDERAL HALL, lutr^.theasU^fmttkiWwtsUnioeU'hwam-poi/its a/' num. Tho open >paoc to tlic \S . in tiont of tlio catlicdial ha- been t)ron/.c *Statuc of Rudolph ran Erlach (?!■ H), the conqueror at l.aupen (p. 150). erected in 1848; at the rorners are four bears modelled l)y Vollmav of Hern : on the pedestal are inscriptions. The *Cathedral Terrace (Maihiter-Terrassej , formerly the fhnrchyard nf tlic rntheiiral , is now a shady promenade, fur- nished with ^eat-, and adorned with a bronze statue of Berthold von ZdhriiKjen (I'l. I'J) ('liertholdo V. duel Zaeringlae conditori urbis Beinae civitas , a. l^iT); three sides of the pedestal are covered with bronze reliefs, illustrating the foundation of the city. A bronze bear acts as helmet-bearer. The pavilions at the corners of the platform are used as a Cafe' (p. O'ij. The terrace, 115 paces long by 100 wide, 104' above the river and 97' above the street at its base, is surrounded by a balustrade. Views. Alpgliihen. The givat atiraciion of Bern is the view it coin- luaudd of the Aips and snuvv-clad peaks of the Bernese Oberland, whiclx in clear weather are visible from every open space ttlie Cathedral and (Jathedral terrace, the Miinz - Terrasse, Federal Hall, Bastion outside the Upper gate, Cafe Schanzli. Enge outside the Aarberg gate). By varying the point of view, the following mountains become visible in addiiion to those represented in the annexed panorama : on the r. of the Doldenhorn. the Balmhovn (, l'i,0'Ji/) with the AIM.< ( ll.'jry2'. 6V\-z^\. distant), and over the Gurten, the bell-shaped summit of the iStockhorn (7211', IS^M.): also to the 1. of iho Schraiien the peaks of the ISpannorter (10,62o', ;jo 31.) and I he Schlossbtrij ( lU-'J-Sb', 54 .M.), both in tlie canton of Iri: the ridge of the Bduchhn near E.scholzraatt (5S13'. ii M.), and the Ftuersttin above the Entlebuch (7138', ;i*» 31.). Nothing can surpass in sublimity the aspect of these mountains at sunset in line weather, especially when the W. horizon is partially veiled with thin clouds, and the phenomenon called the Alp- 'jliinen (-(How of the Alps), or yadigl'dheu (-after-glow) is produced. Long after the shadows of evening have fallen upon the valleys, and the linger- ing rays of the evening sun have faded from the snowy peaks themselves, the mountains begin to glow from their bases upwards, as if illumined by a bright in'erual tire. The '-^Museum (PI. '20), adiuis-^ion gratis on Tuesdays ami Thursdays from 3 to 5, on Sundays from 10 to 12, is also accessible to strangers daily (1 fr. for J — 3 pers.). In the Museum of Natural lUstorn (in the upper story) the bear of course occupies a very prominent position. The St. Bernard dog 'Barry', which is said to have saved the lives of lo persons, is also exhibited. The collection is the largest in Switzerland, and contains specimens of all the indigenous animals , well worthy of the notice of zoologists. Of foreign animals, remarkable spe- cimens only are exhibited. Some admirable specimens of crystal found in 18G8 at the Tiefenglctscher (p. 138) may be inspected here; one of them is '270 lbs. in weight, and several other> exceed '200 lbs. Small portfolios of drit'd Vlpine plants may be purchased here, price 6 to 50 fr. The Museum of Antiquities , in the lower story, contain> curiosities from Japan and Canatla. Roman and Pompeian anti- 4iiities. the fteld-altar of Charles the Bold, and other relio of 96 Route 'J8. P.ERN. Feder. Council Hall. the booty of (iraiulson and Morat. reliefs, etc. — Adjacent to the museum, on the S. side is the University fPl. 30 ) (QOO students), founded in 1834; on the N. side the Library (PI. 3), especially rich in histories of Switzerland, and containing carpets captured in the Burgundian wars C/o fi'-)- On the N. side of the town stands the new Kom. Cath. Churcli (PI. 16) in the Gothic style, designed by Deperthes of Kheims . a simplified imitation, on a reduced scale . of the ca- thedral of Rheims. E. of the church stands the Town Hall (Rathhaus, PL 22), dating from 140B. restored in 1868, with a large covered staircase in front , and the arms of the different districts of the canton on the facade. The *Picture Gallery (PI. 18) in the upper story of the Federal Council Hall (entrance by the principal portal; adiu. gratis daily, except Saturday, in summer 9 — i, in winter 9 to 3 o'clock; from Sept. 15th to Oct. 15th a gratuity must be. given) , contains some good modern paintings , the position of which is. however, occasionally changed. I. Room. 2. Albatw^ Virgin and Child; 5. P. Breughel., Eve of Mayday ; 1 1. 7)M«^^, Portrait. Casts: /wT^o/, David with the head of Goliath; Sonnen- sr/ieiii. Tomb of Madame Langhans at Hindelbank: Dorei\ design for a tombstone. — II. Room. Rein/iardt, Swiss costumes; 63. Meyer., the Matterhorn : 64, 65. Lorij^ the Scheidegg, Jiingfrau, and Valley of Laiiter- brunnen ; 76. Mind., Group of cats. — III. Room. 100. Didai/, Landscape. Casts: Jmfiof, Hagar and Ishmael, Ruth gleaning. Eve. — IV. Room. 128 — 130. Girardet., Pastoral scene, Alms-giving, Going to school; 132. iforitz. The husband at the tavern; 134, 135. Didai/, Valley of Lauterbrunnen, Chalet in the Bernese Oberland : 136. Be Meuron, Chamois-hunter; ===140, 141. Calame., Vicinity of the Handcck. Waterfall near Meiringen ; 144. KoHer, Stray cow and calf; 145. 146. Stephan^ Mountain scene in the Canton of Glarus , Landscape from the neighbourhood of Meiringen; 152. George., Landscape near Geneva ; 154. 155. Anker., School-examination, The little friend; 159. Vaulier., Saying grace; 163. Humbert^ Herd crossing a brook ; 164. Kappis, Tyrolese village life. — The remaining roora'^ contain casts fnnn the antique, and several modem works. The Arsenal (PI. 3'2) was despoiled of its greatest treasures by the P'rench in 1798. but still contains many interesting relics. ^ At the upper (S.W. ) end of the town stands the *Federal Council Hall (Bundefi-Rathhaus) (PI. 32). a handsome edifice in the Florentine style, 174 paces long, 75 wide, completed in 1857 (custodian on the r. of the principal entrance . 1 fr. for 1 — 3 pers.). The simple grandeur of the different chambers i,< striking. The sessions of the two great national Councils (sec Tntrod. XII), usually held in July, are open to the public; this affords foreigners an opportiuiity of studying the institutions of Switzerland. The speakers use the German (often the Swiss dialect). French, and Italian languages. Speeches of the president, motions, resolutions, etc.. are always translated into French and Italian by an official interpreter. The visitor should not fail to ascend to the platform on the roof, as it commands the most Enqe. BERN. 28. Route. 97 oxtensivn *vic\v in Kern, ombraciiijj; the heaiitit'iilly-situatcd town, its environs, and the Alps. — Opposite to it is the new Museum., employed as a club, with concert and reading room, etc. ; intro- duction through a member. On the E. side of Bern is the *NydeckbrTicke , an imposing striicturo of three arches, completed in 1848. The centre arch has a span of 160'. and is 98' above the Aare. The bridge. 180 paces long, and prolonged on the town side by a viaduct, was constructed .ilinost entirely of erratic blocks from the Kirchet (p. 132). On the r. bank of the Aare, close to the bridge, is the new ^Bears' Den {Barengrahen, PI. 2). constructed in 1857, the old den near the Aarberg Gate having been removed to make room for the railway. The ancient Egyptians had not a greater veneration for the Ibis, than the modern Bernese have for the Bear, which would seem to be the tutelary deity, as well as the heraldic emblem, of the canton. Here Bruin in propria persona is sup- ported, according to immemorial nsage. at the expense ot the municipality, and the public are prohibited from making him any olTerings except broad or fruit. On the night of 3rd March, 1861, an English ofticer fell into one of the dens, and was torn in pieces by the male bear after a long and desperate struggle. Bern is famed for its Charitable Institutions: it po.ssesse.s two orplian Afyliima., a Lvnatir A-ojlmn., a Foundling Hospital (Jtnners)., two hancLsome and spacituis hospitals, the Inselspital (PI. 24) near the Casino, and the Biirgerspital (PI. 23) near the station, with the inscription: '■Chri.^to in paiiperibus^ . The latter was once the larjrest edifice in the town. hut. • now the Penitentiani ( Zuchthavs)., at the .\arberg Gate (capable of accom- modating: 4f!0 inmates ). and the Council Hall compete with it in dimen- sions. The extensive new Lunatic Asylum of Waldau near Bolligen, 2V4 M. to the N.E. of the town, erected in 1854, is fitted up for the receptifm of 2(K) patients. Crossing the Railway Bridge (see p. 13), at the N.W. end of the town , the traveller passes the Botanic Garden (F\ . O), recently laid out on the sunny slope of the r. bank of the Aare. and reaches (V2 M. ) the *Schanzli (PI. E. 2; Hotel et Pension Schiinzli - Victoria , with dcpendance , pleasant terrace and grounds, baths of various kinds), which commands the finest view in the environs of Bern. In the foregrounEKKK, ywilzerland. 5th Ediliun. 7 y!5 Route 29. WABERN. Berntse the Freiburg Alps, the Jura mountains for a distance of upwards of 100 M., with portions of the Lake of Neuchatel :, to the 1. of the High Alps, the mountains of Untervvuld and Lucerne as far as I'ilatus. (At the summit a new Inn.) The carriage -road from Bern, 4 lU. to the top, leads from the Aarberger Thor to (I'jv ii.) Wabern , whence several paths ascend through a wood to the summit uf the Gurteu. On the hill near are the Jicic/ilelen and Victoria asylums for deserted children. At Klein- Wabern ib the 'Pension lialsiger^ recommended for a prolonged stay. Longer excursion to (G M.) Ziminericald ( fension Indermiihle), charm- ingly situated, and (4'jj 31. farther) Biitscheleck (S445'), with extensive and superb view of the Alps. Belpbery see p. 99. 29. The Bernese Oberland. Time. Travellers whose time is very limited may obtain a glimpse at the surpassing beauties uf the Bernese Oberland in three days, but so rapid a survey is hardly compatible with true enjoyment of the scenery. iSuitable places for passing the night are indicated by italics). First day: From Bern by railway in 1 hr. to the steamboat-station Scherzligen beyond Thun, steamboat to Xeuhaus in 1•|^ hr., diligence to Interlaken ij-.' hr.. steamboat to the Oiessbach in •^)4 hr., rowing boat to Brienz in 'j-s ^''-i diligence or two-horse carr. to Meiringen in I'j-^ hr., on foot to the baths of Rosenlaui (2'j.i hrs. ), sufficient time after arrival to visit the glacier. Second day : On foot to the Great Scheideck l'2'j-2 hrs.), Grindelwald (2 hrs.), the Little Scheideck (4'J2 hrs.), the Wengernalp (, 'j-s l""-)^ i" all y'|2 hrs. Third day : On foot to Lauterbrunnen (2ii-2 hrs.), Staubbach, Interlaken (2'|,j hrs.), Xeuhaus (ij'.; hr.), by steamboat to Thun and by railway to JJcrn. — If the traveller has a fourth day at his disposal, he will do well tu ascend the ' Schynige Platte ' ; or he may proceed on the third day to Afiirren, and on the fourth visit the upper part of the Lauterbruunen valley and the Schmadri - Fall ( or extend his walk to the Upper Steinberg), and take a carriage from Lauterbrunueu to iS'euhaus, etc. Those who do not wish to return to Bern may proceed on the lirst daj from Bern to the Giessbach by Thun, ]!seuhaus, and Interlaken, back tu Interlaken, and thence to Laiderbrunntn; second day, the Wengernalp, Grindelwald; third day, the Great Scheideck, Meiringen; fourth day, by the Briinig to Lucerne (R. 25), or to the Grimsel (.11. 32), etc. Or a carriage may be taken to Grindelwald , whence the traveller may proceed to Meiringen and the Grimsel on horseback or on foot. Tariff of March 23rd, 1866, a copy of which every landlord and driver is bound to possess. One-horse carr. per day 13, two-horse 25 fr. ; from Xeu- haus to Interlaken each pers. 1 fr. From Interlaken to Zweiliitschineu 7 or 12 fr. ; to LauterVjrunnen and back, with 3 hrs. halt, 9 or 17 fr. : to Grindelwald and back in one day 14 or 25 fr., in two days 25 or 45 fr. ; to Lauterbruunen and Grindelwald and back in one day 17 or 30 fr., in two days 25 or 45 fr. ; to Grindelwald via Lauterbruunen and the Wengern- alp, the horses being employed by the travellers for riding over the latter, for two days 25 or 55 fr. ; 5 or 10 fr. are also charged for conveying the carriage from Lauterbruunen to Grindelwald ( 3 or 6 fr. , if the excursion be made in the reverse direction) ^ to Lauterbruunen, Miirren, and Grindel- wald and back in two days 28 or 55 fr., in three days incl. the Wengern- alp and Grindelwald 35 or 65 fr., transport of carr. as above; to Habkern or the Beatenberg and back 15 or 25 fr. ; to Wimmis 15 or 25 fr. Charges for other excursions are mentioned in the respective routes. Horse or Mule per day, incl. attendant, 11 fr. : if several be engaged at once, 10 fr. From Interlaken: Faulhorn and back in two days 30 fr. ; Abendberg and back 10 fr. — From Lauterbruunen: over the Wengernalp to Grindelwald (or vice versa) 15 fr. ;, Miirren 10 fr. ; Trachsel- lauinen and back 15 fr. — From Grindelwald: Faulhuru and back 15 (if a night be spent on the summit 22) fr. : to the Lower Glacier 4, to the Upper 6 fr. j to the Mer ue Glace 6, there and back 12 fr. j Little Scheideck Oberland. THUN. 29. Routt. 99 li Ir. ; Mannlichon and l)ack 15 t'r. ; Jloirin^cu 21 fr. — From Mciriugeu Koseniaui aud hack 10 ir. ; 8chciileck 10 Ir. i Faulhorn 25 fr. ; Faulh(nu and to Griudolvvald 30 , to i.autcrbrunucn 40 fr. ; Handcck aud back iu (mo day 15, in two days iO t'r. •, Grimsel 25, IMiouc Glacier 3U fr. — Beyond these charges no addition for return -journey can be demanded, except where a horse is employed for a number of consecutive days and dismissed ;it a distance from the place of liiring. Guides (see Introd. Vill) G— S fr. per day of 8 hours, return 6 fr. ; porter G fr., return G fr. For the usual route by Lauterbruunen, Oriudelwald, tlie .Scheidcck, Jlciringen, aud Grimsel no guide is necessary. On fine days tlie route is much frequented aud cannot be mistaken. Boys to show the way are contented with 2 fr. per day and no return - payment. They are to he met with at the principal places on the route, at the Grimsel Hospice, at lirien/., or at Grindelw aid. Patience ami Small Coin are indispensable in the Bernese Oberland. Contributions are levied upon the traveller's purse under every possible pretence. Vendors of strawljerries, llowers, and crystals first assail him, and he has no sooner escaped their importunities than he becomes a victim to the questionable attractions of a chanuns or a nuxrmot. His admiration must not be engrossed l)y a cascade, ever so beautiful, or by a glacier, ever so imposing and magnificent; the urcliin who persists in standing on liis head, or turning somersaults for the tourist's express enjoyment, must liave his share of attention and something more substantial with it. Again, if tlie route happen to pass an echo, a pistol shot is made to reverberate in one's ears, and payment is of course expected for the unpleasant shock. .Swiss damsels next make their appearance on the scene, and the ebbing patience of the traveller is again sorely tried by the national melodies of these ruthless songsters. Then tliere is the Alpine horn and the Kanz des Vaches, which, although musical when iieard at a distance, are ex- cruciating when performed close to the ear. The fact is, the simplicity and morality of the al>origiual character in these once lonely regions has been sadly marred and corrupted by nujderu invasion. These abuses have become so crying, that the attention of Government has been directed to them, aiul commissioneis have been sent to inquire into the matter. Their advice is: 'Give to nobody '; the remedy therefore lies principally with travellers themselves. a. From Bern to Thun. Central Swiss Kail w a y. In 1 hr. ; fare 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. GO c. 8eat on the right to be preferred, for the sake of the view of the Alps; but from Miinsingeu to Uttiugen on the left. — Those who wish to travel to Neuhaus (Interlakeu) direct should procure through-tickets at Bern. In this case they proceed to the ^chcrzli(jtii (see below) terminus, 'jj M. from Thun, where they emliark without detention. The line crosses the Aare bridge (p. 13, beautiful glimpse ol' the wliole Alpine chain on the r.), and then passes the grounds of the Botanic Grarden and the -Schiinzli (p. 97). At Wyler Feld the line troni Bern to Herzogenbuchsee (p. 16) diverges to the S.K. Beautiful view of Bern and tlie Alps on the r. Next stations Osttnnundinytn, Uumlinyen^ Rubiyen., and Munshiyen. On the r. are the Slockhorn chain and the Niesen (p. 10'2j, the ex- treme spurs of the High Alps, and to the 1. the Munch, Juny- ffdu, and Bliindisaip. From Miinsingeu to the Belpberg, the only eminence between the Aaif aud the CriirOt. On leaving the railway stat., the road to the r. should 1)0 taken, leading to the (^,4 M. ) ' Schutzenfiihre'. By this ferry the Aare is crossed, and the path (partly cut in steps) ascends (l'i4 hr.) to the //«/:e//( y the road T'j-j 31. (one-horse carr. in IIJ4 hr. 7 fr. ; travellers may avail themselves of the Gessenay and Weissenburg diligences as far as Brothausi, see p. 153). Steamboat to Spiez ( p. 103) ; thence by Spiezvvyler to Wimmis 'd^\\ 31. — An omnibus runs from Thun to the Heustrich-Bad; one-horse carr. in lij-j hr., 7 fr. — Diligence from Tlmn to Frutigen once daily. Horse to the top of the Xiesen, and back on the same day, from Wimmis or Frutigen 15, from Heustrich 13; if a night be spent on the summit, 20 fr. From Frutigen to Wimmis or Heustrich over the Niesen in one day 30, two days 35 fr. — Uuide (unnecessary) U, if kept till ne.xt day, 8 fr. Chair porters 10 fr. each ; if kept till next day, 12 fr. From the post-station Brothausi (p. 153) a footpath descends to the 1., to the deep and stony bed of the Smimen, crosses it by a wooden bridge (destroyed in 18G7J and ascends to Wim- mis. The carriage-road describes a circuit of 1 M. Wimmis ('2342') (*Lbwe) . is pleasantly situated in a fertile district at the E. base of the Buryfluh (5072'J, and overlooked by a castle, now occupied by a school and the district-authori- ties. The church is said to have been founded by King Ru- dolph 11. of Burgundy, in 933. The path hence to the Niesen ascends on the S. side of the liurgtluh. At the village-fountain it proceeds in a straight direc- tion, after 25 min. it turns to the 1. by a gate; the (l'2min.) Stal- deiibacli is then crossed, after which tlie route no longer presents 102 Route 2.9. NIESEN. Bernese any difflciilties. The bridle-path asccnrls the N. slopes of the Bettfluh. Refreshments at the first inhabited chalet on the 'Bergli'. About half-way, by the chalets of Vnterstnlden, the path crosses to the r. bank of the Staldenbach , and by nnmerons ■windings ascends the snnny slopes of the Niesen, passing the chalets of Oher^tnlden. The prospect first unfolds itself beyond the Staldenegg, a sharp ridge connecting the Bettfluh (7921', also called Fromherghorn or Hinter-Niesen) with the Niesen, and the vast snow-fields of the Bliimlisalp and Doldenhorn become visible. From the H e u s t r i c h - B a d (p. 145") the hridle-patli ascends in wind- ings for 1 hr. to the W., through heaTitiful heech plantations, then 1J2 hr. to the S. to the 'Schlechtcnwaldogg"' (superb view); finally 2'J2 hrs. due N. to the summit of the Niesen. The path is provided with benches, on which the distances and altitudes are inscribed. "Numerous and diversified points of view on this route. (Drinking water scarce.) From Frutieen (p. 145) the bridle-path diverges 1. near the end of the village, and crosses the meadows to Winllen (1(2 br.), whence the path ascends in windings through the wood for 1(2 hr. Then a gentle ascent across the meadows to the Sentir/raben (li|2hr.), to the Xhsfnegg (20 niin.) and tbo A^k.^pn-ChaJet OU ^r.'). The path unites on the F^tnhlenegg (1 hr.) with that from Wimniis. This route affords a beautiful retro.spective view of the Kanderthal nnd the Alps. Inn , 5 min. from the summit, R. from 2'|2, P.. l^fi, P. or S. 3'l4, L. 3|i, A. 1(2 fr. ; 40 c. charced for fire in the dining-room. The *Niesen (7763', Rigi 5905', Faulhorn 8803'), the con- spicuous N. outpost of a ramification of the Wildstrubel , like Pilatns, considered an infallible barometer (see p. 54"), has the form of a gently sloping pyramid: the rocks at the base are composed of clay-slate . those of the upper portion are sand- stone-conglomerate. The simimit consists of a narrow ridge, terminated by two small peaks , below one of which the inn is situated •, the other , 300 paces from the inn , is somewhat higher, and commands an unbounded prospect. The Alps are seen to greater advantage than from the Rigi ; indeed, the view is scarcely inferior to that from the Faulhorn. As the group of the Wetterhorner, etc. forms the foreground of the view from the latter, so the Niesen commands an uninterrupted prospect of the broad snow-fields of the Bliimlisalp , rising at the extremity of the Kienthal. View. The most prominent of the snow -mountains are the following : in the distance to the E. the Titlis; nearer, the Wetterhorner and Schreck- horner, the Eiger, Monch, .Tungfrau, Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn, Breithorn, and Tschingelhorn ; towards the S. the Fran or Bliimlisalp, the Doldenhorn, Balmhorn, and Altels ; to the W. , the Wild- horn, appearing between two black peaks ; 1. of these the pinnacles of the 3Iont Blanc group ; finally the two peaks of the Dent du Midi, forming the last snow -group towards the W. The entire lake of Thun is visible, as well as a portion of that of Brienz. The thickly peopled valleys of the Simmen, Engstligenbach, and Kander, and the Kienthal may be traced for a considerable distance. Towards the K. the course of the Aare, and the hilly country of Bern, as far as the .Tura, complete the prospect (comp. the Panoramas at the inn). The most favourable light is towards sunset. During the day the plains alone are seen to advantage. OherhiUfl. ?.') Tfnufe 103 c. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. Comp. Map p. ^f). Steamboat 3 times daily in I'fj hr. from Thun { f^rherzligen ; romp. p. 100) to Ncnhaus, fare 2 fr. or 1 fr. ; to Oontcn or Spioz 1 fr. 20, or fiO c. ; for each b(^)x 50 r. O m n i b u s or other conveyance from Neuhaiis to Interlaken in '[.> lir., I fr. The Lake of Thun (18240 is Wj., M. lonp, and Vj^ M. broad. Tho banks are at first stndded with piotnrcsqnc villas and gardens, bnt fnrtlier on, the N. bank becomes somewhat precipitons. On the Northern Bank, S M. from Thun by tho road, lies Merlipon ; thence to Unterseen 7' 2 31- Part of this route may be performed by steamboat as far as Oonten ; thence on foot to Neuhaus, or vice versa. A road leads from Thun to H i 1 te r f in fien ( Pcna. des Alpcx), 01>erhofen ( firlr) , whore ('f)unt Pourtales possesses a jucturesque chateau, once the residence of Walther von Eschonbach, and (3 31.) Go n ten C ire /.<;.<:<'.': Kretiz ; ■'Pension du Lar)^ skirtine the bank of the lake the latter part of the way. From Gonten a paved bridle-path, several hundred feet above the level of the lake, passes the rustic sanitary cstab. of S ipri swyl (fm tho eminence to the 1.), and descends to the castle of Ralligen and (5 M.) Merlig:en ( Loiee), where a few years aco a thunderstorm of creat violence destroyed 17 liouses. Beyond the waterfall the path is narrow and precipitous. About t hr. beyond Jlerlisien, near the end of the wood , a broad path di- verainc to the r. must be avoided. — The cavern of St. Beatus, near this T>ath, deserves a visit (see below and pp. 104. 107). The Southern Bank (IS 31. by the carriage-road) scarcely repays the pedestrian, but affords a delightful drive. The Steamboat starts from the Freienhof hotel (romp, p. 100), aTid ascending the Aare, stops at the Bellevue (p. 100"), t1ien at Srherzlifjen, the railway-terminns (comp. p. 100). To the 1. lies the picturesque Barhiytit (p. 101); to the r., where the Aare emerges from the lake, Srhloss Schaddii (p. 101). The Stock- horn (7211'). with its rounded summit, and the pyramid of the Niesen (7763') rise on the r. and 1. of the entrance to the val- leys of the Kander and Simmen (p. 145). L. of the Niesen the three peaks of the Bliimlisalp; r. in the background of the Kan- derthal, the Freundhorn, Doldenhorn, Balmhorn with the Altels, and the Rindcrhorn gradually become visible (from 1. to r.). In tho direction of Interlaken appear successively (from r. tol.) tlio Jutigfrau, Monch, Eiger, Schreckhorn, and Wetterhorn. The boat skirts the N.E. bank , the lower portion of which is covered with vineyards, the upper with woods, and passes the pleasai\t village of Hilterfim/en ; 1. the chateau of fliinefii/ (p. 101). it then halts at Oherhofen (see above) , with a castle of Count Pourtales and a hospital founded by him, and at Gonten, above which is the church of Si(frhiryl on the height. The steamer now crosses the lake at the broadest part, and proceeds in a S. direction to Spiez (*Penii. Schlmeyy, 5 fr.), a small village on a promontory on the S. bank, with a picturesque old castle, for 300 years the property of the von Erlach family (ascent of the Niesen, p. 102; diligence to Frutigen. p. 145). Near Spiez, towards the E., two black peaks (above the S. bank of the lake 104 Route •29. INTERI.AKF:N. Bernese of Brienz) are visible tor a short distance : that to the r. is the Faulhorn, the broader to the 1. the Schwarzhorii. As the steamboat proceeds towards Neuliaus, the Raliigstocke (4901') and the Siyriswyler Rotkhorn (6T42'J are conspicuous above the N. bank. Beyond MerlUjen (see above) a rocky head- land called the Nase , stretches into the lake. A little further, on the N. side, rises the Beatenberg, with the Cavern of St. Bea- tus (Beatenhohle, 2782'J. The stream which flows from it fre- quently increases rapidly, and lliling the entire cavern, bursts forth from it with a roar like thunder. St. Beatus, the first pronnilgator of Christianity in this district, is said to have dwelt in this cave. The steamer stops at Neuhaus {Hotel Neuhaus , with restau- rant), where carriages are in readiness to convey travellers to Interlaken (i fr.). A post-omnibus also runs to the starting-place of the steamers on the lake of Brienz (1 fr.). On the road from Neuhaus to (i^/4 M.) Unterseen and Interlaken, views of the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger are obtained. To the r. , on an island at the influx of the Aare , are the ruins of Weissenau. d. Interlaken and its Enviions. Hotels and Pensions. At Inteiiakea itself, in the direction from the lake of Thun to tliat of Brienz: Hotel Ritscliard, pension 8 fr. ^ ■V i c t o r i a , comfortable, R. 2i|2, !>. 4 fr. \ J u n g f r a u , a new and spacious edifice, R. 2, L. and A. 1, B. lij^ fr. ; S cli weizerho f ; -Belvedere, by the Cursaal ; -llotel des Alpes; Casino^ 'Hotel Interlaken; Elmer; Volz; -'Hotel Beaurivage, handsomeSy fitted up, with river and shower baths , grounds, and fine view. These handsome hotels, situated on the so-called 'llohewcg" (,P- ItJiJ) and erected within the last 30 — 40 years, were originally fitted up as ■Pensions'' only, but now accom- modate travellers at the usual hotel prices. Xear the steamboat-quay on the lake of Brienz is the = Hotel du Lac, R. 2 fr., L. 1(2 fr. , B. 1 fr. — Coming from the Lake of Thun the traveller first reaches the ' Eiger, then (li|2 M.) Beau- Site (pens, from 5 fr.) , with beautiful view ot the .lungfrau, and Hotel Untersee^n. Near Unterseen on the Spiebnatten, a small island in the Aare, -HoteTdu Pont (pension from 5 fr.) ; then in the village of Aarmiihle y beyond the second bridge over the Aare, Bellevue; Rossli, adjoining the post-office; Wei.sses Kreuz, un- pretending; opposite to it, Ob er lander Hof, a large hotel with a cafe, R. 2, D. 3, A. ij2 fr. — On the road from Aarmiihle to Matfen (Gsteig, Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen , etc.): Wyder; Deutsches II a us, pension 5 fr. ; adjacent -Hotel Reber, pension 5 fr. ; '14 M. farther, on the 1. side of the road, -Ober, or the 'Schlosschen' ; near it. Pension Bischofsberger, new. Before the latter is reached, a road diverges to tlie r., leading to the 'J un gf r aub li ck (3|4 M. from Unterseen) , situated on a spur of the wooded Kleine Ritfjen (p. 105) and commanding an unbroken view, with pleasant grounds, and comfortably fitted up ; baths, whey, etc. ; pension before July 1st and after Sept. loth only, 7ij-. — 9 fr., R. 2i|.— 4, B. li|2, D. 4 or 41 J2, L. and A. li|2 fr. — Farther from Interlaken, beyond the bridge, which crosses the Aare near the Hotel du Lac, and on the road to Brienz, is situated (3/4 M.) 'Campagne Felsenegg' (pension 5i|2 fr. ; also a cafe-restaurant). — At Maiten (see above) Hotel and Pension Matten- b of. — At Bonicjen on the S. bank of the Lake of Brienz, 11(2 M. E. of Interlaken, recommended to those in search of retirement: -Pension Vogel, 'Pension Bijnigen, and -Chalet du Lac. — On the Aheiid- berg (p. 1U9) (2i|2 hrs.), 'Hotel Bellevue. — At Beatetibery (p. 109, car- riage-road, in 2 hrs.: one-horse If). t\vu-h..rse 25 fr. ), I! At el d r s Alpe.-, Oherland. INTEIiLAKEN. 'JU. Routt. 105 c nnmaiuling a fine view of the Alps from the Finsteraarhorn to the Niesen ; ' •_' il- hijjher up, Bellovue, also oinmanding a magnificent view, pension in Ijoth 4—6 Ir.' The -Cursaal d'l n t crl a k en' is situated on the Htiheweg, between the Schvveizerhof and the Belvedere. It was opened in 1859, but since the government has prohibited gambling, it has been fitted up for reading, concert, and ball-rooms. The hotel-keepers, at whose expense this es- tablishment is kept 111), make a charge in their bills for its use. — New Waterworks supply the town abundantly. — Wrestliiirj Matches (fee charged for adm.) see lntn)d. XII; the tourist should witness one of these, if he has had no opportunity of being present at a genuine fete, in order to gain some idea of this national custom. Bankers: Ebersold :<: Seiler. - Druggist: Seewer. Carriages, Horses, Guides, see p. 9S. Donkeys., l',i fr. per hr. Post and Telegraph Office in Aarnuihle, by the Oberliinder Hot'. English Church Service in the old Convent Church. The low laiul bet\veen the lakes of Thun and Brienz, 2V4 M. ill length, is termed the 'Bodeti.' Formerly these two lakes probably formed one sheet of water only, but were gradually separated by the deposits of the Lidschine (p. llOj flowing into the Lake of Brienz. and the Lomhach into the Lake of Thun. These accumulations, first from the S., out of the valley of Lauter- brunnen, and then from the N. out of the Habkeren valley, together serve to account for the curve, which the Aare has been compelled to describe. On this piece of land, -between the lakes', lies luterlaken with the adjacent villages of Aarmiihle and Unterseen , stretching in a connected line nearly as far as the Lake of Brienz. Coming from Neuhaus on the Lake of Thun (_p. 104j, the traveller rtrst reaches the pensions Eiger and Beau-8ite (p. 104j, then Unterseen (1837'J, a small town with 1880 inhab. Most of the houses are of wood, and many bear traces of great age. There are large manufactories of parqueterie at Unterseen and Aarmiihle. The road to the small island of Spiebnatlen (hotel, see p. 104) crosses the Aare by a bridge (Schaaibrucke) , which commands a picturesque view 01 the foaming river , its weirs, the precipi- tous rocks on the r. bank, various mills, bridges, old wooden houses, and dark pine woods (Kleine Rugen^ see below), and tovvering above all the glistening snow-tields of the Jungfrau. By a modern iron bridge (Hohebriicke), which crosses another arm of the Aare, the village of Aarmuhie (hotels see p. 104) is reached, which, together with Interlaken, has a pop. of 1813. At its termination, the 'Hijhewey' connnences, an avenue of fine old walnut-trees, much injured however by a storm in 18G1. The pensions and hotels mentioned at p. 104, as well as a number of the attractive shops and stalls usually seen at watering-places, are situated here. Near the extremity of this venue is the former monastery and nunnery of Interlaken, tounded in 1130, and suppressed in 15'28. The E. wing of the monastery is used as a luispital for the poor; the remaintler of 106 novte 29. TNTERLAKEN. Berne.^e the buildiiiff, to wliich tlio castle was added in 1750, serves as ^overnniont-nfflees. The nunnery has been converted into a prison. The tower and chancel are the only remaining; parts of the church, wOierc English Divine Service is performed every Sunday during the season. The former English chapel is now a Rom. Cath. place of worship. Interlaken is deservedly a point of attraction to visitors from all parts of Europe ; the whey-cure is an inducement to some, whilst many make it their head-quarters for excursions in the Oberland , or select it as a resting-place and for the enjoyment of the magnificent scenery by which it is surrounded. It is particu- larly recommended to travellers whose time and resources are ample, as it affords facilities for numerous excursions among the valleys and heights of the Oberland, in the intervals between which the strength may be recruited, and repose enjoyed. Walks. The immediate vicinity abounds in charming walks. -'^ To the Junc/frmiblick, see p. 104. — To the *Kleine Rugen f2483') \l-2 hr. A broad path (from the Jungfraublick to the r. at a circular bench) , provided with benches, ascends gradually, affording ever varying views of the Bodeli and the lakes of Thun and Brienz, and leads to the TrinkhnUe (Restaurant), a long covered building with a terrace. This point commands the finest prospect of the Jungfrau, Monch, and valley of Laiiterbrunnen. The path then continues its circuit of the hill, and at a circular plateau turns to the r. The ascent towards the right affords the finest succes- sion of views. From this walk numerous shady and pleasant by-paths diverge, leading to different points of view and resting- places. The summit of the hill also affords a view, the trees by which it was formerly obstructed having been removed. — The prospect from the ruined castle of TJnspunnen (2 M.), embraces the valley of Lauterbrunnen , the Jungfrau, and the Monch; it may be reached by a path which diverges to the r. from the Lauterbrunnen road between Matten and Wilderswyl, beyond the Kleine Rugen ; or through the Wagneren ravine, which opens towards the road from Matten to Thun . a short distance beyond the Rugen path. — To the *Heimweh-Fluli 3/^ hr. In the Wagneren ravine, about 200 yds. from the entrance, a narrow path diverges to the r. , and ascends rapidly to the foot of the rock ('/4 hr.), whence a rugged flight of steps leads to the rocky terrace. The *Vieui embraces the Bodeli, the lakes of Thun and Brienz, the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger (Restaurant below the terrace). — The ruined castle of Weissenau (2 M.), on an island formed by the Aare where it enters the lake of Thun (p. 104), is reached by the old road from Matten, as well as by the road from Unterseen to Thun. — In the opp. direction, on the r. bank of the Aare, the ascent of the Hohbuhl (2247', V2 ^r.) is fre- quently made; the path ascends to the 1, by the first house Oherlfwd. INTERI-AKEN. 2.9. noufe. 107 beyond tlio Zollbriicke fp. 104), rand to tlio r. traverses the woods to a pavilion coinmandinp: a bcantiful view (tlie path to the 1. leads to Vofjtsru.he on the Aare, a restins:-plare and fountain). The prospect is still more extensive from the prassy slopes of the Vnfere Bleicki , a few hundred pares hijrhcr. (The footpath leads to the r., crossing the brook after 10 min. walk.) From the Hohbiihl a path descends to the Voptsruhe , and, following the r. bank and passinjr a shootinp:-cround . leads to the narrow and stony plain of Goldei, between the Harder and the Aare, at the base of the Fnlkenfluh, the upper part of which (Hnrdermannli) seen from a cood point of view , bears a resemblance to an old man's face. On a barren eminence below the Falkenfluh, and accessible by a path from the Goldei, a pavilion has been erected, termed the Liistbiihl , commanding a beautiful view of Interlaken and the Jun^frau. Further on. some caverns, called the Zirerfflorher , are seen in the walls of the Harder. From the Goldei the traveller may either return by Unterseen . or (by a footpath to the r.) ascend the hill '/m Brand', where a court of judicature was anciently held; thence to the 1. in ^1^ hr., crossing the Lombach , to the Erk. a hill at the base of the Beatenberp:; all beautiful points of view. — The Thurmherg, ascended from Golzwyl (I'/o M.). beyond Fclsene^jr on the road to Brienz (p. 104) , also affords a beautiful panorama of the lakes of Thun and Brienz , the course of the Aare , and the small, gloomy lake of Golzwyl, or Fmilensee. — Another walk may be taken by the same road to (3 M.) Jiinggenherg , with picturesque church constructed among the ruins of the castle (beautiful view), and to the Schadenburg (IV2 ^- farther), situated on a spur of the Harder, an unfinished castle of the ancient barons of Ringgenberg. A steamboat (pp. 103. 127) plies in summer at least 3 times daily to the *Giessbach on the Lake of Brienz. Footpath to the Giessbach, see p. 127. To the Bentenhohle (p. 104), with its (in spring) beautiful waterfall, from Neuhaus by boat (5 fr. ; 2 hrs. going and re- turning), passing the picturesque villa of Leernu; or by a foot- path (to tlie T. before Neuhaus is reached), passing the Ki'iblis- hnd and the village of Simdlnuenen (1 Vi ^^^■)- -^'ifl in some places skirting the brink of the precipice above the lake, but not dangerous. Bomgen (l'/-? M). (inteig (p. 100), with a beautiful view from the churchyard (2 M.), and (isteigtryler (3/4 M. farther) with the Ifohe Steg (bridge) over the Liitschine, are likewise pleasant objects for a walk. Longer Excursions. The *Schymge Platte (6181') is one of the finest points of view in the Oberland. There is probably no other from which the valleys of Lauterbrunnen and 108 Route 29. SCHYNIGK PLATTE. Bernese Grindelvvald are simultaneously visible in their entire length. (Horse, incl. carriage to Gsteig, 15 t'r). From Interlaken to (2 M.J Gsteig, see p. 109. Crossing the bridge at the church and turn- ing to the r., a good road leads to Gsteiywyler (3/4 M.j. In the middle of the village the path ascends to the 1. , and a little farther, to the 1. again. The way cannot now be mistaken. A shorter footpath from Gsteig (1. between the cliurch and innj, avoiding Gsteigsvyler , unites with the above path after 1 M. A wood is soon entered, beyond which the (l'/2 hr.) lower, and then the (V.2 hr.) upper terrace (74 hr. below it, 20 paces r. of the road , excellent spring-water) of the Breitlauenen-Aip (view of the lakes, refreshments at the chalet) are reached. Finally a zigzag path leads to the (40 min.) summit of the moun- tain ridge, and crosses its W. extremity (to the r. the 'Ameiseji- haufen' or 'ants' hillock', a jagged rock). A few steps bring the traveller to a scene of striking magnificence : the Lauterbrunnen valley lies before him. to the 1. towers the majestic Jungfrau, at his feet are dizzy precipices , descending almost perpendicularly to the Liitschine. Following the 8. slope of the ridge for 1/2 hr., the traveller arrives at the *Hotel Alpenrose (R. 272? 1^- i'/-2' '^• 1 fr.). The Platte, a crumbling slate-rock, glistening in the sun's rays (whence its appellation), is about 60 paces from the hotel. The finest view is obtained a few paces before the summit is attained . at a bend in the path. (The traveller should not omit to visit the ISelten Alp, 1/4 ^''- *o ^^'^ N.E. , a pasture which affords support to a herd of 600 cattle, the tinkling of whose bells produces pleasing harmony). To enjoy a complete panorama the traveller should skirt (to the 1.) the base of the Qamihorn (7493'), N. W. of the Platte, and ascend the somewhat lower Taubenhorn ('Tubihorn') (a walk of 7^ ^^''• from the Plattej, whence the prospect of both lakes, Interlaken, the Gumihorn, and other peaks is remarkably fine. The height above the Schynige Platte (20 min.) commands a fine panorama of the Alps, but the view into the valleys is inferior to that from the Platte. Boys to show the way or carry luggage may be found in Gsteigwyler (1—2 fr.). A new path leads hence to the Faulhorn in 4 hrs. , see p. 121. Descent from the Platte by Oandlischwand to Zweiliitscfiinen in 2 — 272 lirs. The Harder (4626' , 2 hrs.) should not be ascended without a guide , as accidents have occurred from the dangerous nature of the path. The Habkernthal, between the Harder and Beatenbery, may may also be explored. Carriage-road to the village of (6 M.) Habkern (3675'; rustic inn), from which the pedestrian may visit the three following points of view: (1) the *Gemmenalp- horn (7035') or Giiggisyrat, by the Brandliseyy, or following the course of the Biltdbach . in 4 hrs. [better still from Unterseen Oherland. SUI.KCK. 'J'.K Route. 100 direct to Wdtdec/cf fSOHO'. a lianilot in tlio parish of Bealenhertf) in 2 hrs.. and thence by the Oherberi/ to the summit in 3 lirs.]; (2) the Hnhijant (7216'), by the Boldegu (5167') and Hafjletsch- (dp., or by the Alp Bosalc/nu and through the Karrholen in 4 hrs. (a path 8. from the Hohjzant leads over the Grunenhenj . a pass between Habkern and Schanynau in the Emmcnthal. in 6 hrs.); (3) the AiK/stmatthorn {Sugyithurm , 6929'J . by the Bodencdp (2 hrs."). and thence to the summit in I'/j ^'^• The Abendberg fGOOO') is also frequently ascended for the sake of the view, wliich is still more extensive from the Rothe Eck. the next peak of the range, the culminating point of which is the Moryenberghorn (7-425') above Leissiyen. The path is at first the same as that from the Lauterjjrunnen road to Unspunneu; before reaching the ruin , however . it enters the beech-wood to the r., and ascends. On the Abendberg. at a height of 3600' (27-2 hrs. from Interlaken, bridle-path to this point), is situated the Pem'ion Bellevue, beautifully situated. The Sax'eten Valley lies between the Abendberg and Bellen- hochst (6138'); to the village of Saxeten (3566') 21/2 hrs. (ac- commodation at the schoolmaster's); yf-y hr. further are the falls of the Gurben and Wg/.ss^ac/j, and the valley is beautifully closed by the Schwalmern (8981'). — Between the latter and the Morgenberghorn is a rugged pass over the Alp Renyyli (5626') through the Suld-Thal to Miihlenen on the Kander, or to Aeschi above the Lake of Thun. The *Suleck (7910'). affording one of the finest prospects of the Alps, may be ascended from vSaxeten (see above) by the Alp Nessleren to Bellenkdchen (5889') I72 ^r. , thence to the summit in 3 hrs. The ascent is easier from Tusenfluh (see below ): thence to the Alp Suis 17^' to the summit I72 ^^- Eisenfluh (^Isenfiuir) itself merits a visit on account of the splendid view of the Jungfrau ; besides the path to it from Ziceililtschinen (see below), a second ascends the Sausbach opposite the Htinnenfluh. — Interlaken may also be made the head-quarters for most of the following excursions. e. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach. Comp. Maji j>. 98. 7'|j JI. C'arri;i^e thcro aiui hark, (Hie-hnisc 9, t\v(i-lii>isc 17 fr. . see p. 98; onc-liorsc carr. from Interlaken to Zweiliitsciiinen 7 t'r. The high-road first traverses fertile orchards and rich meadows, and passes (1 M.) through Matten (Ilirsch). where it divides; that to»the r. is the shorter (•"^/4 .M.) to Wildersiryl mid (74 M.) Mi'dlnen ; that to the 1., the longer ('/4M. more), leads to the Church of Gsteiy (*Kreuz), the parish church of the entire valley on this side of the Aare, including Interlaken itself. Near (7-2 M.) MiiUnen, the two roads re-unite; the Saxetenbaoh is crossed , and a narrow gorge soon entered , through which the no -Route -Jy. LAUTERBRUiNNEN. Bernese LiUschiae Hows. To the r. rises thj precipitous Rolhenfluh. A certain spot (^2 M. j in this detile , marked by an inscription on the rock , is named the Boseastein , where according to tradition one of the barons of RothenUuh sle>v his brother. Near (274 M.J Zweiliitschineu (22G1'J, a village on the r. bank of the Liitschine {^Bdr^ li. 1, B. 1 fr., pension 4 fr.J, the valley divides. To the 1. it ascends the course of the Black Lutschine to Grindelwald (J^/-} M.) (view of the Wetterhorn in the background) ; in a straight direction the White Lutschine is followed to Lauterbrunnen (2^/^ M.). The valley of Lauterbinin- nmi, which commences at the Hunnenfluh, a rock in the form of a gigantic tower, is remarkable for its walls of calcareous rock, rising precipitously on both sides, to a height of 1000 — 1500'. It derives its name (^tauter Brunnen, i. e. 'nothing but springs') from the numerous brooks and springs which descend from the surrounding rocks. Au excursiou may be made (.guide unnecessary) from Zweildtscliineu to (1 hr.) Eisenfluh (SSU'i'j i the lirst ruad turning to the r. from the Lauterbrunnen road rapidly ascentls the W. side of the mountain (after 3 p. m. shade). Refreshments at the house of the schoolmaster, near the upper fountain in the village. Eisenlluh commands a magnificent view of the Jungfrau, which is seen to still better advantage on the path from Eisenlluh to Murren (c5 hrs., p. ii'ij. Near the end of the village, it turns to the 1., leading to the Huttsbacii (•*|4 hr.), beyond which the only steep ascent in the walk is encountered (the traveller from 3Iurren should, on emerging from the forest, as soon as he perceives the bridge which crosses the brook at the bottom of the valley , leave the direct path and descend towards it); for ^\-> hr. the path presents no difficulty, and the walk well repays the fatigue; the Jungfrau and its neighbours are seen to great ad- vantage, especially on emerging from the forest, 25 min. from the inn, as the Schwarze M.inch no longer intercepts the view. The path, generally narrow, is, near the Sausbach, sometimes completely carried away by the rains, in which case the traveller should cross the meadow above the pre- cipice ; guide desirable. — Good walkers will accomplish the journey to J/iirren in an afternoon, next day ascend the iichilthorn, return to sleep at Murren, visit on the third day the Falls of tht Schmad/'i , and in the evening descend to Lauterbrunnen — a charming three days' tour. Lauterbrunnen (27.J0') {Steinhock , K. 2, B. IV2, S. 3, A. ^/4 fr. ; *Uotel StaubbacJij unpretending), a picturesque, scattered village, is situated on both banks of the Liitschine, in a rocky valley ^/4 M. broad, v. here in July the sun does not make its appearance before 7 a. m., and in winter not before noon. The snowy mountain-group to the tS.E. is the Jungfrau, to the S.the Breithorn. (Waterfall of the Triimlenbach , a beautiful evening walk, see p. 113). Wood-wares good and cheap here. Upwards of 20 brooks leap from the rocky heights in the vicinity. The most important of these is the *Staubbacli ('dust- brook'), '/a M. ;S. of the hotel. The brook, never of great volume, and diminishing so much in summer as sometimes to disappoint the expectant traveller, descends in an unbroken fall of 980' ^ so small a body of water falling from so great a height is con- verted, before it reaches the ground, into minute particles of Oberland. MURKEN. I'i). Routt. Hi spray, which the breeze scatters into taiitastic and ever-varying iorms. The morning is the niost favourable time to visit the cascade , when the rays of the sun falling upon it create a suc- cession of beautiful rainbows , which appear to rise and fall , as the spray , like a transparent veil , is wafted to and fro by the breeze. Best point of view from the meadow immediately in front of the fall, to the 1. of a seat indicated by a Hag. ytrcauis froiu the liigli, Steep, rocky wall The purest fount ; In clouds of spray, Like silver dust. It veils the rock In rainbow hues \ And dancing down With music soft, Is lost in air. G (jet he. f. Upper Valley of Lauteibrunnen. Miirren. Fall of the Schmadribach. Coinp. Map p. U8. From Lauterhrunnen to Miirren '1^\\ hrs. , Trachsellauiueu 2 hrs. , to the Schmadribach and back 2 hrs., Lauterhrunnen 2'|2 hrs. Horses see p. US. A ilay can hardly be more agreeably employed than in making an excursion to Miirren, and the Fall of the Schmadr i 1j ac h. It is a good day's walk, and, if extended as far as the Upper Steinberg, some- what fatiguing; in the latter case a guide (5 I'r.) may be engaged at Trach- sellauinen. If it is only intended to visit Miirren, whicii should be the principal object, the excursion from Lauterhrunnen, retarning by Stechel- berg, is easily accomplished in G hrs. (guide unnecessary). The route from Zweiliitschiuen to Eisentluh (p. IIU), Miirren, and Lauterhrunnen, requires only 1 hr. more. To Murren, Gimmelwald, and Stechelberg a bridle-path, thence to Lauterhrunnen (5 M.) carriage-road. The view from Miirren being seen to the best advantage by evening light, the traveller may prefer to proceed first to the Schmadribach, and thence to Miirren, wliere (or at Gimmelwald) the night should be passed. Between Gimmelwald and Trachsellauinen there is a shorter way than the road by Stechelberg (see p. 112). The ascent from Lauterhrunnen to Miirren may be performed on liorseback, but the descent by Gimmelwald, especially the latter part, is excessively rugged and fatiguing. At Lauterbrunnen, a few paces -S. of the hotel, the path to .Miirren ('i^/4 hrs.) leaves the valley and ascends rapidly to the 1. by the side of the brook for 20 min. , then turns to the r., ami immediately afterwards to the 1. in the direction of the waterfall, below which it crosses to the r. bank. After liaving rrossed two other brooks, it reaches the Pletschbacli or Slaubbach (I74 hr. from Lauterhrunnen). 8oon afterwards the ascent becomes easy ; tw branches of the Spiessbach are crossed , and (1 hr. from the Staubbach) the wood is quitted. Here is suddenly disclosed a magniticent **view of an ampliitheatre of mountains and glaciers, the Eiger and the Miinch , the Jungfrau with its dazzling t?ilberhorn, the rugged precipices of the Schwarze Miinch, rising precipitously from the valley, the wall of the Ebene-Fluh, its conical summit to the 1. and its mantle of spotless snow, the Mittagshorn, the Grosshorn, the Breithorn, from which the Schma- dribach Hows, the Tschingelhorn , and nearer, the Tschingelgrat and the Gspaltenhorn ; 8 or 10 glaciers descend from these snowy heights to the valleys below. The prospect is far more imposing 112 Route -21). SCHMAI)RI1'>A('H FALL. Bernese than from the Wcjigcni Alp. with the exception of the view of the Junjjfrau, which from the Weiiffern Alp is unrivalled. From this point the path traverses green pastures, and (25 min) reaches the Alpine village of Miirren f5347') (^Silberhorn. R. 2, B. l'/.,, D. 3, A. 3/4 fr.), whence the Wetterhorn is still visible to the 1., and on the extreme r. the Furke (p. 113): a more extensive view is obtained from the Almendhubel (1 hr. farther). From the -Schilthorn (9728') (ascent with guide in 41,2 lirs. , partly over snow and slate-detritus, hut free from danger), which rises to the W". of Miirren, the Jungfrau, the queen of the Bernese Alps, may he surveyed in her entire magnificence. An extensive prospect is also obtained of the whole chain as far as the Bliimlisalp (or Fran), the Altels, many of the moxintains of the Valais, the Rigi, the X. of Switzerland, etc. The traveller is recommended to descend hy the imposing Sefinenthal, passing the "■Briickt^, a charming point above Gimmehvald: a route longer hy I'Jj hr. than the direct path, but far more interesting. From Miirren the bridle-path descends to the 1.; 10 min. bridge over the Murrenhach; in 20 min. to the 1. between two chalets; 5 min. the hamlet of Gimmelwald (4535') (*Zum Schilt- horn, also a pension); 25 min. a bridge over the Sefinlutschine, in the valley, then a slight ascent; 5 min. precipitous path, difficult in rainy weather. The 8efinliitschine here forms a beautiful *cascade, whose spray is tinged with the hues of the rainbow in the morning sun. Some min. farther on, the path divides: to the 1. it descends to Stechelberg fl'/o hr. from Miirren. and 5 M. from Lauter- brunnen) ; to the r. (direction-post to the inn) to Trachsel- lauinen and the falls of the Schmadribach (see below). In one hour more the chalets of T r ac h sella uinen{m A i't.^i Hotel Schmadri- fall, R. 2, B. l'/2, A. and L. ^/^fr.. well spoken of) are attained. The path, now more difficult to trace, continues on the r. bank. In 10 min. it passes a deserted silver-foundry, then skirts a projecting mass of rocks to the r. , and ascends the Nadla; it next passes the chalets {^o ^r.) of the Lower Steinberg, and crosses the impetuous glacier-fed Schmadribach and Thalbach ; ascending the pasture on the r. bank, it leads by a waterfall; the rugged Holdri is next mounted, and in '/2 ^^- ^^^ chalet of Legger is reached (1^4 hr. from Trachsellauinen). and the *Fall of the Schmadribach is in full view. The water, emerging from the glacier in a considerable volume, is hurled to a depth of 200', and. ascending in vapour, forms a magnificent arch. The stream must be crossed higher up by the traveller who desires to inspect the waterfall more closely . but this will hardly com- pensate for the sacrifice of time. The loneliness of the surround- ing scene, the imposing character of the cascade, and the magnifi- cent panorama of mountains and glaciers, combine to produce a profound impression. The azure ice of the TschingeL Glacier rises perpendicularly in the immediate vicinity; beyond it the grotesque Tschingelhurner (11,749'). Oberland. FUUKE. 29. Route. 113 The prospect is still more extensive from the chalet of the Upper Steinberg (5794'), which is seen high up to the r. on the pastures (ascent of I'/'i hr. from Trachsellauinen). Coffee and milk, and if necessary a bed of hay, may be had; charges sometimes exorbitant. From Steinberg to Gas tern and Kandersteg by the Tschingel Glacier, a most interesting glacier-excursion, see p. 146. From Trachsellauinen to Lauterbrunnen is a walk of 21/2 l^rs. In 25 min. a bridge over the Lutschine is reached, which here dashes wildly down its rocky bed ; 1/4 hr. the bridge of Stechel- bery (3002'; path from Miirren see above), and the bottom of the valley is attained. Near Matten (1/4 hr.) is seen to the 1. the Miirrenbacli, trickling down the face of the cliff. From the (II/4 hr.) Dornige Brilcke a stony road leads to Lauterbrunnen, which the pedestrian may avoid by taking the path to the r., pursuing the same direction , and traversing green pastures ; 10 min. the waterfall of the Rosenbach, issuing from a fissure in the rock; 5 min. from the path the *Cascade of" the Tri'imlenbach, fed by the glaciers of the Jungfrau (p. 115), rushing impetuously from a narrow chasm , and forming a cascade of great volume, but inconsiderable fall (3 M. from Lauterbrunnen). The best point of view is the bridge (1/2 fr.), which is reached by a path on the r. bank. A few hours' leisure at Lauterbrunnen cannot be better spent than in taking this walk. From Lauterbrunnen by the Furke to Reichenbach in the Kienthal, or again leaving the Kienthal, ascending by the Diinden- grat to Kandersteg, by a path across the Sefinenthal, mentioned at p. 146: from Lauterbrunnen to the Furke 5'|2 hrs., down to tlie valley 2 hrs., to the Biindengrat S'la hrs., to the Oeschinenthal 2 hrs., Kandersteg fiji hr. ; altogether a rugged walk of 15 — 16 hrs., the most fatiguing portion being the passage from the valley over the Diindengrat to Kandersteg, only practicable for experienced climbers. If need be, the night can be passed in one of the chalets of the Kienthal. Good guide necessary, the three brothers Lauenei\ Ulvich Litider, and Peier van Almen are recommended. The whole route presents a series of the grandest views, especially at the beginning, near Miirren. The Furke (8566') is a profound cleft between the Great-Hvndshovn (9607') and the liiUdassen (10,463') i in ascending, the pedestrian must keep to the 1. in order to arrive at the opening in the rock. In descending from the Furke to the Kienthal (the dangerous path to the 1., which leads to the Diindengrat over the Gamc/ii Glacier., must be avoided) the Rliimlisalp (or Fran) appears in all its brilliant whitene.auterbrunnen. — Guide unnecessary. Chaise-a-porteurs at Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. Two routes lead to Grindelwald. The first, a road which follows the valley of the White Liitschine as far as Zweiliit- schineii , thence ascending the valley of the Black Liitschine (distance about VI M., by carriage in 2'/.j hrs., seep. 98), will be chosen by travellers who prefer the luxury of a carriage, to the proximity of the Juugfrau and the bracing mountain air. A good walker will, if time permits, prefer the other route by a footpath over the WengernaLp and the LitUe Scheideck. It is at first somewhat laborious, from the rapidity of the ascent, but well repays the fatigue , and is one of the most attractive and frequented paths in Switzerland. Near the church of Lauterbrunnen, the Liitschine is crossed, and the first wide path ascending to the r. followed [3 min. from the bridge). After a somewhat steep ascent of 1 hr. a hamlet belonging to the village of Wengen ( rustic innj is reached ; beautiful view of the Gspalthorn, the Tschingelhorn, the Breithorn, the Schwarze Monch, the Jtmgfrau, and the glacier and waterfall of .Schmadri , as well as the valley of Lauterbrunnen. About 1/4 hr. beyond the inn , the path to the r. must be selected ; it now becomes more level , ascending a gently sloping pasture, to which the name *Wengernalp properly belongs (Refreshm.). Wrestling match, see Introd. XV. From this point is seen the valley of Lauterbrunnen far below , the Staubbach , reduced by distance to a silver thread, its upper fall, and the windings which it makes preparatory to its final leap. The path now enters (I hr. from the inn of Wengen) a fir- wood , in which it continues for about V4 hr. On emerging from the wood by a gate, the broad track mtist be left, and a steep path to the 1. ascended, again occasionally leading through forest; in 35 min. (^from the broad track) a second gate is seen, \vbere the path leads to the r.^ and in 10 min. more the *HOtei Obertand. JUNGFRAU. 29. Route. 115 de La Janyfiau (61 To' J is reached. (The pedestrian coming in the opposite direction must take care to go through the gate, and OH jio account descend by the enclosure.) Travellers coming from Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald meet here, or at the Scheideck {y. Ulij, and a halt is generally made between 10 and 12 o'clock. Tourists of every tongue , guides, porters, and horses are often mingled together in the utmost confusion , and severely tax the energy of those who have to supply their many requirements. The Uemshuyel (hill of the chamois') affords a tine survey of the valley of Lauterbrunnen. The '=Jungfrau (13,671'), covered with an eternal shroud of snow , now appears in all her majesty. The two peaks , the Silberhorn (^12,106') to the r., and the Schneehorn (^11,204') to the 1., tower above its immense fields of snow. Its proportions are so gigantic, that the traveller is bewildered in his vain attempts to estimate them; distance is annihilated by their vastness. The summits and higher peaks are covered with snow of dazzling whiteness ; the lower and less precipitous slopes also present a boundless expanse of snow and glacier. The loftiest summit, which is farther S., is not visible from this spot, or from Lauterbrunnen. The base of the mountain, as far as it is seen, is precipitous. Avalanches. These terrihle and yet magniticent phenomena are occa- sioned by the aceumiUation of immense masses ot ice or snow on the upper parts ot the mountains, whence, as the warmer season advances, they slide oil" by their own weight with amazing velocity. The traveller has now an opportunity of beholding the ire avalanche, or portions ol' glacier becoming detached unter the inlliience of the summers sun. Seen Irom a distance these enormous masses of ice, breaking into iragmeuis as they fall, resemble rushing cataracts , and are accompanied by a noise like thunder. They are most numerous shortly after noon, when the sun exercises its greatest power. E.xcept that the awful stillness which gene- rally pervades these desolate regions is interrupted by the echoing thunders of the falling masses , there is nothing absolutely imposing in the spec- tacle ; and after the imagination has been wrought up in anticipation of the scene, something akin to disappointment is experienced when it is fully realised. The traveller must, however, be reminded that the apparently insiguilicant white cascade often consists of hundreds of tons of ice, capable of sweeping away forests and whole villages, should any unfortunately be encountered in their course; happily, however, they fall in uninhabited districts, and are rarely fatal in their elfects. Two other descriptions of avalanclie arc of a much more dangerous character — the snow and the drift avalanche. Whole villages liave been over- whelmed by the instantaneous fall of the former-, such a calamity befel the village of Bueras in tlie Grisons in 174'J. The drift avalanche only lakes place in winter after an unusually heavy fall of snow, large masses of which become detached by the wind from lieights where they have ac- cumulated; these increase in their progress to an enormous extent, and are precipitated with overwhelming force into the valleys beneath. The impetuous current of air which accompanies these snow torrents, as they may be aptly called, is said to be of such violence as capable of uprooting forest trees. Since Aug., 1811, the Jungfrau has been frequently ascended (.in Ibtki even by a lady). The iiilberhorn, once deemed inaccessible, was as- cended "for the' lirst lime, Aug. 4th. 1863, by Kd. c. Felleiiberi/ and the J'^ditor, accompanied by the guides P. Michel, U. Baumann, and I'. Inabnit of OiJndelwald. The party started ii\>ui the Belkvuc %'Vl i a. m., tiuverdo4 !5* 116 Route 29. LITTLE SCHEIDECK. Bernese the entire Eiger and Monch Glaciers, ascended the Schneehorn to the r., and crossing the N. slope of the Jnngfrau, attained the summit of the Silberhorn at 4. 30 p. m. The following night was passed on the preci- pitous E. icy slope of the Schneehorn . not one of the party daring to close an eye. (Comp. Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpenclubs, 1864). The Xauberhom (8120'), a cone rising from the ridge which extends to the N. of the Scheideck, may be reached thence in 1 hr. ; from the Wengernalp in li)2hr. (descent 1 hr.). This ascent is stronglj' recommended to those who have not visited the Faulhorn. View extensive and imposing. Coming from Grindelwald, it is only a digression of lVi2 hr. to proceed from the Scheideck to the Hotel Jungfrau over the Lauberhorn. Guide not absolutely necessary. — The Tschngcjen (BilCy), which rises to the N. of the Lauberhorn, commands a more extensive, but less picturesque view. Ascent more fatiguing. — If the traveller be disposed to extend his walk, he may proceed from the Lauberhorn along the E. slope of the Tschuggen to iha' Mdnnlichen, the N. summit of this ridge (comp. p. 118). In this case the walk from Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald (by the Wengernalp, Lauberhorn, and Mannliclun) will occupy 10 — lO'f-i hrs. The Little-Scheideck (Lauterbrunnen-Sclieideck, or Wengern- Scheideck, 6788'; Hotel Bellevue, R. 21/0, B. IV2, S. 2, A. 3/^ fr. ; wood -carver Jean Zurfluh)^ the culminating point of the pass , is attained after a moderate ascent of 3/4 hr. from the Hotel Jungfrau. A striking view is obtained from the top of this abrupt ridge over the entire valley of Grindelwald from the Lake of Brienz (to the extreme 1. is the flattened cone of the Faulhorn with its inn), and on the S. the giants of the Oberland, the Monch (13,438'), Eiger (13,045'), and farther off the Schreckhorn (13,394'). Mr. Harrington, a young Irishman, was the first to scale the Eiger, in 1858, and the hazardous ascent of the Monch was accomplished for the first time by Dr. Porges of Vienna in 1861. The first ascent of the highest (central) point of the Schreckhorn (Gross-Schreck- horn) was made by Mr. Leslie Stephen, Aug. 16th, 1861; its S. peak (Gross- Lauteraarhorn) , lower by 120' than the N., in 1842 by three Swiss gentlemen. The Finster-Aarhorn(iA,02Q''), the highest mountain of the Bernese Alps, is not visible. In the extreme distance, to the E., rise the Sustenhorner. The glaciers which surround these mountains and fill all the hollows, extend without interruption from the Jungfrau to the Grimsel, and from Grindelwald to Brieg in the Valais. They cover an area of 360 sq. M. (the sixth part of all the glaciers of the Alps), and form the grandest uninterrupted chain which exists in these mountains. This 'Central Finster-Aarhorn Mass', as it is termed by geologists, is the most important in Switzerland, and is the most prominent feature on the relief maps. The path to Grindelwald is bleak, but not uninteresting: fragments of rocks piled one on another afford grim evidence of former disasters and avalanches; pasture-land is rare. At the chalets of (I/4 hr.) Bustigeln (6216') refreshments may be pro- cured. Then (1 hr.) Alpigeln (5170'), with the new Hotel et Pension des Alpes (whey cure). As the traveller advances, as- saults are made upon his purse in rapid succession; echoes are Oberland. GRINDELWALD. 29. Route. 117 awakened by cannons and Alpine horns , and 'Trinkgeld' is de- manded by individuals pretending to repair the path. — A forest is then traversed for a short distance. About half-way between the chalet of Alpigelu and Grindelwald (1 hr. from the formerj, the bridle-path, which pursues a straight direction and enters a hollow, should be quitted, and the path to the 1. taken, leading (in 20 min.J by enclosed pastures and scattered cottages to the bridge over the Liitschme; the road then gradually ascends to Grindelwald in '^ hr. more. (Travellers proceeding from Grin- delwald to the Wengernalp should ascend to the r. at the bridge. ) The Footpath Injiu the Little Scheideck to Grindelwald is pleiusautcr than the bridle-path just described. It skirts the 1. bank of the IVengis- thulhach., commanding a series of picturesque views; 1 br. through pine- I'orest. (tiiide desirable. Grindelwald (3773'). Adler (R. 3, A. 1 fr.); HOtel Kiger, opposite the lower glacier, D. or S. 4 fr. •, Bar; =Hotel du Glacier, at the \V. end of the village, R. 2, B. I'j-j, A. 1 fr. ; =P e n s i o n S c h o n e g g, small, with baths. — The Guides of Grindelwald enjoy a high repu- tation. The Editor can recommend from personal experience : CUr. Almei\ Pet. and Christen Michel., Pet. Indbnit, Joh. Baumaim, and Pet. Dohren. — Pet. Egger., Ulrich Kan/inann, Pet. Rubi, Pet. Baumann, and Chr. Deutxch- inann, are also well spoken of. Any of these may safely be engaged for the most difficult glacier-expeditions. — Guide to the glacier (unnecessary) 2 fr. ; chair 6 fr. — Carriages and Horses., see p. 98. The village (3135 inhab.), with its scattered houses of wood, occupying a considerable space iji the valley, affords excellent head-quarters to mountaineers. The proximity of the two glaciers tends to render the climate bleak; but cherries, from which excellent Kirschwasser is produced, and other kinds of fruit, thrive. The inhabitants are chiefly herdsmen, and bOO head oi cattle subsist on the pastures of the valley, which is 1*2 M. long and 4 M. wide. The chief attractions of Grindelwald are its two Glaciers (see Iiitrod. XIV), which descend far into the valley, and are extremely easy of access; they are, however, inferior in grandeur to the glacier of the Rhone and many others in Switzerland, especially as they have considerably decreased of late years. Three gigantic mountains bound the valley on the S.E., the Eiger (13,040' ), the Metlenbery (Mittelberg, 10.443'j which forms the base of the Schreckhorn, and the Wetteriiorn (12. 149') at the upper end of the valley. The two glaciers lie between these three mountains and form the source of the Black LuUchlne. The traveller whose time is limited had better visit the upper glacier only (nearer than the other to the bridle-path to .VIeiringen), the crevasses of which are the most beautiful. The Upper Glacier (3652' at the base), 1 hr. S.E. from Grin- delwald, 10 min. to the r. of the lower bridle-path to the Great Scheideck (which is qtiitted at the fourth bridge, but not by the small footpath immediately above it), is the more remarkable; the ice is purer than that of the lower glacier, and the openings at its base more considerable, especially on the E. side ('/-j fr. 118 Route 29. GRINDELWALD. Bernese exacted for the repair of the patli ; small rostaiiranty The beautiful clearness of the ice is best seen in the grotto artifi- cially hewn in the glacier. The Lower Glacier fSSlT'. at the base), 40 min. S. of Grindel- wakl, sometimes termed the Little Glacier, is four times larger than the Upper; the higher part is known as the Grindelmalder Vief" .UrtKchho DiablereU 852 f .,J9 Mijropnbfi-ghurn /i-^ D .tnnstadt, Ed .Wajfner. 'i'anotama jtom tlJc .t'autii r Oherland. WETTERHORN. ^9. Route. VA 1. over black, crnnibling slate; then a gate, where the Grindelalp commences. The path ceases in many places, but is shortly re- gained ; the direction of the Wetterhorn must be kept; 1/4 ^^-^ a small brook is crossed, and the path is again clearly defined; 5 min., a brook; 10 rain., a natural bridge over the Ber^ei6«cft ; 5 min., the Chalets of Grindeln with fountain; 1/4 ^r., a gate; then to the r. by the enclosure, without crossing it, through the next gate (12 min.) and towards the top of a hill; 8 min., Scheideck Inn. — (Those who ascend hence must, at the bridge over the Benjelbach, be careful to avoid the turning to the 1.; further on, over the pastures where the pathway is lost, the 1. must again be avoided, and a direction parallel with a loiig en- closure to the 1. pursued , in the direction of the rising ground at the foot of w^hich the path is regained.) The Path from Interlaken to the Faulhorn (comp. p. 108) leads by the (4 hrs.) Schynige Platte (p. 107); thence by a new bridle- path across the Iselten Alp, and along the S. slopes of the Laucherhorn to the (I hr.) ridge which bounds the Sdgisthat on the 8. ; admirable view of the Oberland. Then a slight descent to the (3/4 hr.) Siiyisthal-See, with its chalet. The traveller skirts the N. and N.E. sides of the lake, and ascends the barren slope of the Schwabhorn, the ridge of which separates the lake from the Faulhorn. The summit of the latter is reached in 2 hrs. from the Sagisthal-See, and is 2670 ft. above it. Path from the Giessbach to the Faulhorn, 7—8 hrs. (p. 128); descent (5 — 6 hrs.) disagreeable and not recommended. The view from the Faulhorn over the chain of the High Alps, the green meadows of the valley of Grindelwald, and the two glaciers, is par- tially intercepted by the neighbouring group of the* Simelihorn (8928') and the Rolldhorn (9U52'), which, rising between the Finsteraarhf>rn and the Schreckhorn, contribute at the same time considerably to enhance the ellect. The Rothihorn , on account of its isolated pcjsition, commands a much finer view of the mountains of Grindelwald than the Faulhorn ; the ascent is most conveniently undertaken on the return-route from the Faulhorn to Grindelwald, by diverging to the r. at the Bachalpsee (p. 120) and after- wards descending to the Bachalp. The view is still grander and more extensive from the top of the- Schwarzhorn (95U7'), which, with the Wildgevst (9475'). intercepts the view fnini the Faulhorn on the E. side (the lakes of Lungern, Sarnen, Alpnach, Kiisnacht, and Zug are visible hence, all situated in the same line). The ascent of the Schwarzhorn is best made from the Great Scheideck by the Grindelalp (see above) in 3 hrs. (from Grindelwald 6 hrs., from llosenlaui 5'|-.' hrs.) guide necessary. Active mountaineers may descend to the little blue glacier ('■Blaue Gle(scher'), and by the fJreiienboden Alp (2 hrs.) to the Baths of Rosenlani (l'J2 hr.) (p. 123). i. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. The Rosenlaui Glacier. Falls of the Reichenbach. Comp. Map, p. 98. 63|4 hrs. : from Grindelwald to the 8cheideck 3 (descent 2) hrs., from the Scheideck to Kosenlaui 13J4 (ascent 2'|.;) hrs., from Koseulaui to Meiringen 2 (ascent 3) hrs., a good day's walk if '!•.; hr. he spent at the Upper