.\WEUNIVERVa 
 
 .>:WSANCELfj^ 
 
 %a3AINn-3WV 
 
 ^.OFCAIIFO/?^^ 
 
 ^<?AHvy3n-^^ 
 
 >s^lLIBRARYQ/\ -^ILIBRARYQr 
 
 \^my\^ 
 
 \^my\^ 
 
 
 
 ^nwmm^ 
 
 ^OFCALI mj^, ^OFCALI F0/?4> ^^\\F•UNIVER% 
 
 ^<?Aavaani^ ^^Aavaan-i^ 
 
 "^JlJI^DNVSOl^ 
 
 A\\EUNIVER% 
 >■ 
 
 '^j:?i3onvsoi^ 
 
 ^lOSANCElfj^ 
 
 -v^lLIBRARYCk 
 
 "^/saaAiNO-awv^ '^toiivdjo^ 
 
 ,^WE•UNIVER5'/A 
 
 "^J^iiaoNvsoi^ 
 
 ^lOSANCElfj^^ 
 
 O u_ 
 
 "^/^aHAINH^UV 
 
 ^OFCALIF0% 
 
 ^^AHvaaiH^ 
 
 ^ -^ILIBRARYQr^ ^ILIBRARYQ^ 
 
 .^WEUNIVERS/A ,
 
 A\\EUNIVER^/A ^, 
 <2> — '^ ^ 
 
 
 
 
 4s: 
 
 "^AHvaani^ 
 
 ^^ILIBRARYQr ^^^ILIBRARY^/: 
 
 ^ ^^ 
 
 ^<!/0JllV3dO^^ 
 
 ^(tfOJIlVJ-JO"^ 
 
 \\^[UNIVERy/^ ^ 
 
 -p o / 
 
 <■ *-v5 = 
 
 Q ^ 
 
 ^^OFCAIIFO% x,OFCAllF0%, 
 
 .^WEUNIVERVA ^ 
 
 ,^WE■UNIVERS/A 
 
 r " 
 
 ^VlOSANCELfj^ 
 
 <rjl30NVS01^'^ 
 
 -< 
 
 %a3AiNn3WV^ 
 
 ^^lUBRARYOr^ 
 
 ^<f/0JllV3JO'^ 
 
 \WEUNIVERy/, 
 
 
 '^Aa3AlN^3W^^ 
 
 ^OFCAi^O/?^ ^< 
 
 
 ^UIBRARYQ^ ^UlBRARYQc 
 
 iU(Tliui7i iis^i I 
 
 .\WEUNIVER% >^
 
 SWITZERLAND.
 
 
 I I I I — ^ (M 07 ;c « -^ -^ iCiC « CO t~- I- •- cc cc e:; — :s 
 
 I I I I I M M I M I I I I I I 1 I I I I I 
 
 ^. fc- 
 
 
 |0J^«000O^Cv?O^O-^CTO00;D;2gJ jCC^^CMOOO 
 
 MM 1 -' 
 
 ■ ^ ^Tf Tt iTi ir; :a « 
 
 
 SI 
 
 ^^ 
 O 
 
 M M 1- 
 
 ■^^ro•^•^lno^-xxr;o — t'J'Mcc-^ir^^ 
 
 M M M M i M M M M M M M I 
 
 'SSS^SS ISSSS ISSSS I8SS8 I 
 
 M M M M 
 
 ^^-r-— l-r^OJOJC^C^>OJC'0ffOCO?C?O<*ir)C 
 
 ^ c^ 
 
 •?^s^, 
 
 o <» 
 
 ii 11 11 111!, 
 '-'^^g^ 1 I I 
 
 M M M M M M M M M 
 
 I I I 1 -riro.^uocoi^.y:ciO--£j«;2^-^i-ccc;ogg
 
 ^4// Kig/iis reserrti/.
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 
 1 
 
 '"^'^i>sr 
 
 ^^ 
 
 ^^^-\-- i.-r-^:. j: 
 
 rV> ll^-A'^ 
 
 r
 
 SWITZERLAND, 
 
 AND THE AUJ.VCENT I'OKTIONS OF 
 
 ITALY, SAVOY, AND THE TYROL 
 
 HANDBOOK FOR TRAYELLEKS 
 
 K. BiEDEKER. 
 
 With 21 Maps- 7 Plans . and 7 Panoramas. 
 FIFTH EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED. 
 
 COBLKNZ: KARL B.EDEKEK 
 
 .1// UighU n-.H-rni/.
 
 'Go, little book, God send thee good passage, 
 And specially let this be thy pray ere 
 Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
 Where thou art wrong, after their help to call. 
 Thee to correct in any part or all." 
 
 Chaucer. 1380.
 
 16 
 PREFACE. l3|/3 , 
 
 The object of the Handbook for Switzerland is to 
 render tlie traveller as independent as possible of the 
 services of guides, domestiques de place, voitnriers, and 
 innkeepers, and enable him to realise to the fullest ex- 
 tent the exquisite and rational enjoyment of which this 
 magnificent country is the fruitful source. 
 
 Since the great increase in the facilities for travel 
 afforded of late years by the wide extension of railways, 
 the number of travellers on the Continent generally, and 
 in Switzerland especially, has enormously increased. A 
 fresh impetus has thus been given to the spirit and enter- 
 prise of the traveller. Summits are now scaled which 
 were hitherto deemed inaccessible, or accessible only to 
 the practised step of the chamois-hunter or the hardy 
 native, accustomed from boyhood to feats of peril. The 
 achievements of the English and Swiss Alpine clubs have 
 dimmed the memory of De Sanssure, Auldjo, and the 
 other pioneers of these icy regions, whilst latterly the 
 fair sex have vied in deeds of daring with those by 
 whom the dangers of adventure are more appropriately 
 encountered. 
 
 The Editor has repeatedly explored the greater part 
 of the country described , solely with the object of 
 gathering fresh information. The present edition has 
 been carefully revised, and provided with all the most 
 recent information obtainable before the commencement 
 of the summer season. 
 
 As of course infallibility cannot be attained, the Edi- 
 tor will highly appreciate any bond fide communications 
 with which he may be favoured by travellers , if the 
 result of their own experience and observation ; and he 
 gratefully acknowledges those already received , wiiicli 
 have in many instances proved most serviceable. 
 
 1 000867
 
 YI PREFACE. 
 
 The Maps and Plans, the result of much care 
 and research, will be of essential service to the traveller; 
 they will enable him at a glance to select the best 
 routes, and verj^ frequently to dispense with the costly 
 and uncongenial services of guides. 
 
 Time Tables. Information concerning the depar- 
 ture of trains, steamboats, and diligences is seldom to 
 be relied upon unless obtained from local sources. If 
 Bradshaw is mistrusted, the ' Schwekerische Eisenbulm- 
 CourshucJi , published by Kriisi of Bale, or that of Biirkli 
 (40 c), will be found useful. Ziilligs Knrskarte (75 c.) 
 is also a useful publication. 
 
 Altitudes are given according to the Swiss Federal 
 Map reduced to English feet; 1 Engl. ft. = 0,3(NS metre 
 = 0,938 Paris ft.,, and the Populations from data 
 furnished by the most recent census. Distances on 
 high roads and railways are given in English miles ; 
 w hile those on bridle and foot-paths , mountain-expe- 
 ditions, and glaciers are expressed by the time in which 
 they are ordinarily accomplished. 
 
 Hotels. Besides the first class-hotels, many estab- 
 lishments of more modest pretensions are enumerated, 
 wiiich may be safely selected by the 'voyageur en 
 garcon", with little sacrifice of real comfort, and great 
 saving of expenditure. The scale of charges mentioned 
 is either in accordance with the personal experience of 
 the Editor, or based on an inspection of numberless 
 bills furnished to him by travellers. Hotel charges, 
 as well as carriage-fares and fees to guides, are of 
 course liable to frequent variation; but an approximate 
 statement of these items will often prove of service to 
 the traveller, and enable him to form an estimate of 
 his probable expenditure.
 
 CONTENT S. 
 
 Page 
 
 I. Plan of Excursion, etc XTII 
 
 11. Travelling Expenses. Money XX 
 
 III. Hotels and Pensions XXI 
 
 IV. Passports XXII 
 
 V. Excursions on Foot XXII 
 
 VI. Maps XXIV 
 
 Vll. Guides XXVI 
 
 VIII. Voituriers and Horses XXVII 
 
 IX. Posting and Telegraphs XXVHI 
 
 X. Railways XXX 
 
 XI. History XXX 
 
 Xll. Constitution and Statistics XXXII 
 
 XUl. Geology of the Alps XXXV 
 
 XIV. Glaciers XLI 
 
 XV. Wrestling-matches XMll 
 
 Route 
 
 1. Bale I 
 
 '2. From Bale to Bienne (Bern and Neuchatel) through 
 
 the Miinster-Thal ") 
 
 I. From Uolemont to Porrentruy fj 
 
 '2. From Moutier (Miinster) to the Weissenstein .... G 
 
 3. From Bevilard over the Montoz to Keuchenette ... li 
 
 ;]. From Bale to Geneva by Neuchatel 7 
 
 1. Frohburg. Wartburg 8 
 
 2. From "Neuveville to the Chasseral ID 
 
 4. Soleure and the Weissenstein. Riithe. Hasenmatt 10 
 
 1. St. Vereaathal. Wengistein 12 
 
 5. From Bale tc Bern by Herzogenbuchsee I'd 
 
 G. From Bale to Lucerne l-^ 
 
 7. From Bale to Ziirich by Olten 14 
 
 1. From Sissaoh to Aarau by the Schafmatt Ij 
 
 "2. From the Baths of Schinznach by the llabsburg tu Hrugg lU 
 
 S. From Bale to Z'irich by Waldshut and Turgi ... IT 
 
 9. From Bale to Schaft'hausen and Constance .... 19 
 
 1. Hohentwiel 'iO 
 
 '2. The Island of Ueichenaii '20 
 
 10. From Friedrichshat'en (Rorschach) to Constance. Lake 
 
 of Constance '20 
 
 I. From Constance tu the .Alaiiiaii 23 
 
 11. The Falls of the Rhine '23
 
 VITI CONTENTS. 
 
 Route Page 
 
 12. From Sohaflhaur>eii to Ziirirh 25 
 
 13. Ziirich and the Uetliherg 26 
 
 1. From the Tetliherg to the Albis-Hochwacht .... 32 
 
 '2. From Zurich to Repen.sherp 32 
 
 14. From Ziirich to Lucerne by Zug 32 
 
 1. The Alhi.9 route 33 
 
 15. From Zurich to Bern by Olten, Aarburg. and Herzogen- 
 buchsee 33 
 
 Hi. from Ziirich to Friedrichshafen and Lindau by Komans- 
 
 horn '. . . . 34 
 
 1. From Miilhcim to Constance 34 
 
 17. From Ziirich to Lindau by St. Gall and Rorschach . 35 
 
 1. Excursions fr(.m St. Gall 36 
 
 2. Excursions from Rorschach 37 
 
 18. From Ziirich to Coire (Chur). Lakes of Ziirich and 
 Wallenstadt 38 
 
 1. From Lachen to Glarus through the Waggithal ... 41 
 
 2. From Ruti to the Bachtel 42 
 
 3. From Wesen to the Speer 43 
 
 4. From Miihlehorn to Jlollis over the Kerenzer Berg 44 
 
 5. The Murgthal 44 
 
 6. From Wallenstadt to Wildhaus in the Toggenburg over 
 
 the Hinterruck 45 
 
 7. From Mels through the Weisstannen and Kalfeuser valleys 
 
 to Vattis ' . 45 
 
 19. From Ziirich to the Rigi and Lucerne by Horgen, Zug, 
 Immensee, and Kiisnacht. Lake of Zug 46 
 
 1. From Horgen over the Horger Egg to the Sihl-Bridge. 
 Zimmerherg 46 
 
 2. Felsenegg. Hochwacht on the Zuger Berg .... 47 
 
 20. Lucerne and Pilatus 49 
 
 21. From Lucerne to Brunnen by Kiisnacht. Arth and 
 Schwyz 54 
 
 1. Ropsberg 54 
 
 2. The Mythen 55 
 
 22. The Rigi 56 
 
 23. From Lucerne to Conio (Milan) by the St. Gotthard. 
 Lake of Lucerne 66 
 
 1. Axenstein. Stoss. Frohnalp. Seelisberg 71 
 
 2. Grossthal. Kleinthal. Uri-Rothstock 73 
 
 3. From Klus through the Erstfelder Thai to Fngelberg 75 
 
 4. The 3iaderancr Thai. The Bristenstock 76 
 
 5. The Badus, or Six Madun 71) 
 
 6. From Airolo through the Val d'Oesch to the Valley of 
 Formazza 81 
 
 7. From Airolo through the Piora Valley to St. Maria and 
 Dissenfis (see R. 79. No. 2) . . . " 81 
 
 8. From Airolo through the Canaria Valley over the Xera 
 
 Pass and Unteralp to Andermatt 81 
 
 24. From Lucerne to Altorf by Stansstad and Engelberg. 
 Surenen 84 
 
 1. Stanser Horn. Buochser Horn 85 
 
 2. From Engelberg to the Titlis 86
 
 CONTENTS. IX 
 
 Rf.iite Page 
 
 25. From I.urenie ovor the Uriinis to Hrioiiz (ami MeiriiigPii) 87 
 
 I. From Lncernp to Alpnachrrpstafi bv land 8fi 
 
 '2. Footpath from Stan.o.'itad to Sach.n'ln 88 
 
 3. Ttie Melchttial 80 
 
 \. From tlie Jlelclittial to Kn^<'llicrp over the Storrepp; or (tie 
 
 .Turtili 80 
 
 0. From ttic Melchthal to Moirinpen over the Mclilialp . 80 
 6. From Gi.s!wyl to the Hrienzer Rothhorn 90 
 
 '2(3. Kroni Lucerne to Bern. Entlehurli. Eninipiithal . . 91 
 
 1. From Entlettuch or Trtibfjcliachen to the Na]>f ... 91 
 
 27. From Lucerne to Bern by Aarburg and Ilerzogenbuclisee 92 
 
 28. Bern 92 
 
 1. The Gurtcn 97 
 
 29. The Bcrnei^e Oberland 98 
 
 Plan of Excursion. Convcyance.s etc 98 
 
 a. From Bern to Thun ". 99 
 
 I. From Jliinsinpen to the Belpberf; 90 
 
 '2. Environ.s of Thnn. E.xcur.sion.s 100 
 
 3. From Thun to Freihurp: 101 
 
 b. The Niesen 101 
 
 c. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun 103 
 I. From Thun by the N. bank of the lake to rntcr.seen 103 
 
 (i. Interlaken and its Environs 104 
 
 I. I.onper Excur,«ions from Interlaken 107 
 
 o. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach . 109 
 
 1. From Zweiliit.schinen to Ei.senfluh and Murren 110 
 
 f. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Miirren. Fall of the 
 
 Schmadribach Ill 
 
 1. Schilthorn 1I'2 
 
 '2. From Lauterbrunnen over the Furke to the Kienthal, and 
 
 over ttie Diindengrat to Kander.steg 113 
 
 3. From Lauterbrunnen to the Eggischhorn tiv the Lauinen- 
 
 thor 114 
 
 g. From Lauterbrunnen to CJrindelwald. Wenpernalp. 
 
 Jungfrau 114 
 
 1. Lauberhorn. T.schugpen 116 
 
 !2. From Grindelwald to the Za.'senberg over the Ei.«ineer 
 
 (Mer de Olace) IIS 
 
 3. The Mettenberg 118 
 
 4. The Mannlichen 118 
 
 5. From Crrindehvald over the SIrahlegg. or over the Lauter 
 aarjnch. to the Grim.sel Hospice 110 
 
 6. Pa.i.ses from Grindelwald to the Eggi.schhorn ... 110 
 h. The Faulhorn 119 
 
 !. Rothihorn. Schvvarzhorn I'-M 
 
 i. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. The Hosenlaiii 
 
 Glacier. Falls of the Heichenbach 121 
 
 1. The Wetterhorn 1?^ 
 
 ','. The Grindelalp V22 
 
 k. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Kothhorn. Lake of 
 
 Brienz . 12o 
 
 1. Rrienzer Rothhorn 126 
 
 2. From Brienz to Interlaken bv the N. Bank of the lake . 126
 
 X CONTENTS. 
 
 Route Page 
 
 1. The Giessbach 127 
 
 1. From the Giessbach to the Faulhorn 128 
 
 '2. Footpath from the Giessbach to Interlaken on the S. Bank 
 
 of the lake 128 
 
 30. From Meiriiigen to Engelberg. Jochpass 128 
 
 1. From the Engstlenalp to the Titlis 129 
 
 2. From the Ensistlenalp to the Gadmenthal over the Satteli 129 
 
 3. From the Engstlenalp to the Melchalp I3(t 
 
 31. From Meiriiigen to Wasen. Susten Pass . . . . 130 
 
 32. From Meiriiigen to the Rhone Glacier. Falls of the 
 Handeck. Grimsel 132 
 
 1. The 'Finstere Schlauche' 132 
 
 2. The Urbach Vallev 132 
 
 3. From the Falls of the Handeck to Innertkirchen ... 133 
 
 4. The Finster-Aarhorn 134 
 
 5. The Aare Glaciers 134 
 
 6. The Little Sidelliorn 135 
 
 7. The Ewig-Schneehorn 135 
 
 8. From the Grimsel to Viesch over the Oberaarjoch . . 135 
 
 33. From the Rhone Glacier to Andermatt. Furca . . . 130 
 
 J. From the Furca across the Rhone Glacier to the Grimsel 
 
 Hospice direct. Furcahiirner. Galenstfick 138 
 
 34. From the Rhone Glacier to Vispach. Eggischhorn . . 139 
 
 1. From Obergestelen to Airolo l)v the Xufenen Pass 139 
 
 2. LofTelhoru ' 140 
 
 3. From Viesch to Andermatten by the Albrun-Pass . . . 140 
 
 4. From Viesch to Iselle by the Passo del Boccareccio (Ritter 
 Pass) ' 141 
 
 5. From Viesch to Premia by the Kriegalp Pass ... 141 
 
 6. Glacier -passes from the Eggischhorn to Grindehvald, 
 Lauterbrunnen, and the Grimsel 141 
 
 7. From the Egiiischhorn bv the Liifschenliicke or the Beich- 
 
 grat to the Lutschenthal" 142 
 
 35. From Obergestelen to Domo d"Ossola. Gries Pass. 
 Falls of the Tosa. Formazza Valley 142 
 
 1. From the Falls of tlie Tosa to Airolo ])y the Pass of 
 
 S. Giacomo 143 
 
 2. From the Formazza Vallev to the Val Maggia over the 
 Criner Furca . . . . ' 144 
 
 3(i. From Thun to Leuk and Susten over the Gemmi. 
 
 Baths of Leuk 144 
 
 1. From Miihlenen to Interlaken 145 
 
 2. From Frutigen to Lenk by Adelboden and the Haluun- 
 
 moos 145 
 
 3. From Kandersteg to the Oeschinen-Thal (see R. 29, f. 3j 14G 
 
 4. F'rom Kandersteg to Lauterbrunnen by the Tschingel 
 Glacier " 14U 
 
 5. The Balmhorn 147 
 
 G. Excursions from Leuk. Torrenthoin. Galmhorn . . 149 
 
 7. From Inden to Sierre 150 
 
 37. From Thun to Sion. Grimmi. Rawvl 150 
 
 1. The Diemtiger Thai * 150 
 
 2. From Lenk to Gsteig 151 
 
 3. Excursion to the Source of the Simmen 151
 
 CONTENTS. XI 
 
 Rovife Page 
 
 38. From Thun to Gesseney by the Simmenthal . . . . \i)'2 
 
 I. From Rfidonhach to TJiillo over the Kins, or over the 
 
 Kailermoo.s • • l-^t-i 
 
 '2. From Cresus over the Chessalle-Eck to the Lae Xoir I'jd 
 
 ;i From Gesseney to Aisile V)y Chateau-dOex .... 154 
 
 !U) From Gesseney to Aigle over the Col de Filloii If):') 
 
 1. From Ormont-des.sus to Orion bv the Pas de la Crui.v 15f> 
 
 2. The Oldenhorn ....." 150 
 
 3. From (.!-e.s.seney to Sion \>\ the Saiietseli I.'jG 
 
 40. From IJiille to Moiitreux or Vevay by the .Moleson and 
 
 the Jamaii I Til) 
 
 I. From Alheuve and from ^'a^druz to the Mole.son . . . 157 
 
 '2. From Go.s.sency to BuUc hy Montl)ovon and Orayere . . 158 
 
 41. From l>ern to Lausanne (Vevay). Oron-l{ail\vay 159 
 
 I. From Flamatt to Laiipen 159 
 
 •2. From Ki.mont to Hulle 162 
 
 '6. From Che.vl>re.s to Vevay 163 
 
 4'2. From Bern to Neurhatel by Morat. Avenches. Payerne 103 
 
 1. From Bern to Xeuchatel by Aarbere and ln.s .... 163 
 
 '2. From Morat to Payerne 165 
 
 43. Nenchatel and the Chaumont 165 
 
 44. From Nenchatel to Le Lode by Chaiix-de-Fonds . and 
 back by Les Pouts 168 
 
 1. From Nenchatel to Chan.\-de-Fouds by the Col de.s Loge.s 168 
 
 2. Roche Fendue. Saut du Doubs 169 
 
 3. From Locle to Xeuchatel. Diligence road by Le.s Pont.s 170 
 
 45. From Xeuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val de Travers 170 
 4(). From Nenchatel to Lausanne and Geneva. Lake of 
 
 Nenchatel IT'2 
 
 1. From Yverdon to the (Jhasscron 173 
 
 2. Cren.v dn Vent 173 
 
 3. From Rolle to Orbe by the Col de Marcheiru/ and the 
 
 Lac de Jf)ux 170 
 
 47. Lac de Joux. Dent de Vatilion 176 
 
 1. From Orbe to Le Pont by Vallorbe 177 
 
 4S. (Geneva 177 
 
 49. F^nvirons of (Jeneva. Fernex. .Vlont Saleve . . 186 
 
 1. The Voirons 187 
 
 50. From Geneva to Martlfj;ny by Lausanne and \illeneu\e. 
 Lake of Geneva (Northern Lank) 188 
 
 1. The Dole 180 
 
 2. From Rolle to the Signal de Bougy 191 
 
 3. From Lansanne to the Signal and the l»rande.s Roches . 193 
 
 4. Footpath from Vevay to Jlontreu.x and Chillon along tlie 
 
 .sloi>e of the mountain 195 
 
 5. Excursions from Montroiix 197 
 
 0. From Aigle to Villard. Ascent i>{ the Chamossaire . . 2(H» 
 
 7. From Aigle to Ormont.<! l)v the Col de la Croix . . . 2Ut 
 
 8. The Baths of Lavey . . " 2t)-2 
 
 9. From Martigny or Sembrancher to the Pierrc-a-voir . . '2('4 
 
 51. From Geneva to St. Maurice by Bouveret. Lake of 
 (reneva (Southern Bank ) 'J04 
 
 1. From Thonon to Samoens. Drause \'albv .... •205 
 
 2. From St. (iingolph to lli.- Blandiard and Port Valai> . . 'JOO 
 
 3. Val dlllifz. and ascent ..f the Dent dn Jli.li .... 2<>7
 
 XII CONTENTS. 
 
 Route Page 
 
 52. From rxeneva by Culoz and .\ix-les-Bains to Chambery, 
 returning by Annecy 208 
 
 1. Perte du Rhone 208 
 
 2. Lac d\i Bourget. Haute-Comhe 209 
 
 3. From Aix-le.s-Bains to Annecy 209 
 
 ' 4. From Ugine to Sallanches or the Bath.s ol St. Gervais . 211 
 
 53. From Geneva to Chamouny 213 
 
 I. From St. Gervais over the Col de la Forclaz to Le.s 
 
 Houches 215 
 
 54. Chamouny and its Environs 216 
 
 1. From Chamonnv to Sixt bv the Col du Brevent and the 
 
 Col dWnterne . . . . ' 221 
 
 2. From Chamouny to Sixt by Argentiere and Mont Buet . 222 
 
 3. From Chamouny to Courmayeur over the Col du Geant 223 
 
 55. From Chamouny to Martigny over the Tete-Noire , or 
 
 to Vernayaz by Trinquent and Salvan 224 
 
 I. Cascade du Dailly 226 
 
 56. From Martigny to Chamouny. Col de Balme . . . 226 
 
 57. Tour du Montblanc. From Chamouny to Aosta by the 
 
 Col de Bonhomme and the Col de la Seigne . . . 229 
 
 1. From Chapiu to Pre-St.-Didier over the Little St. Bernard 231 
 
 2. Ascent of the Mont de Saxe near Courmayeur. Cramont 232 
 
 3. From Courmayeur to Martigny by the Ferret Vallev and 
 
 the Col de Fe'rret " . . 233 
 
 4. From Pre-St.-Didier to Bourg-St. -Maurice by the Little 
 
 St. Bernard 234 
 
 58. From Martigny to Aosta. Great St. Bernard . . . 235 
 
 1. Excursion in the Valsorey Valley 236 
 
 2. Ascent of Mf)nt Velan and the Grand Comhin .... 237 
 
 3. From the Hospice of the Great St. Bernard to Martigny 
 
 by the Ferret Valley 239 
 
 4. From St. Remy to Courmayeur by the Col de Serena . 240 
 
 5. Becca di Nona 241 
 
 6. From Aosta to Courmayeur 241 
 
 7. From Aosta to Zermatt by the Col de Valpelline . . . 241 
 
 59. From Martigny to Mauvoisin ( Val de Bagne) and over 
 
 the Col de Fenetre to Aosta 241 
 
 I. Col de Sonadon. Col de Crete Seche 242 
 
 60. From Bex to Sion. Col de Cheville 243 
 
 61. The S. Valleys of the Valais between Sion and Tour- 
 temagne. (Val d'Herens, Val d'Anniviers, and Valley 
 
 of Tourtemagne) 245 
 
 a. From Sion to Evolena by the Val d'Herens, and to 
 
 the Val d'Anniviers by the Col de Torrent . . 245 
 
 1. Pic d^Arzinol 246 
 
 2. Glacier de Ferpecle 246 
 
 3. Glacier de TArolla 246 
 
 4. From Evolena to Zermatt by the Col d'He'rens . 246 
 
 0. From Evolena to Prerayen. Col de Colon 247 
 
 6. Col de Riedmatten. Pa's de Chevres. Col du Mont Rouge 247 
 
 7. The Sasseneire. Pas de Lona 247 
 
 b. From Sierre to Zinal by the Val d'Anniviers (and 
 over the Col de Zinal to Zermatt) 247 
 
 1. Alp rAl]t<e. Alp TArpitetta. Roc Noir 248 
 
 2. From Zinal to Zermatt by the Triftjoch, or the Col Durand 249
 
 CONTENTS. Xlll 
 
 Koiite Page 
 c. St. Luc. Bella Tola. To the Tourtemagiie Valley 
 by the Pas du Boeuf, and to the A'alley of the Visp 
 
 by the Augstbord Pass 249 
 
 1. Meiden Pass. Ban- Glacier. Pas de la Forcletta ... 25(> 
 
 02. From Gampel to Kaiidersteg. Lotscheii Pass . . 2.')! 
 
 1. From Kippel to Lauteilirunnen l)y the Wetteiliicke ■ . '2bl 
 '2. From Kippel to Lauterbiunnen bv the Peters or Lcitschen- 
 
 thal Grat ." '2bl 
 
 03. Froui Martigiiy to Aroiia on Lago Maggiore by the 
 Simplon 2;j3 
 
 1. From Tourtemagne to Jleiden 250 
 
 2. From Brieg to the Sparrenhorn 251 
 
 '6. From the Antrona Valley to Meigeren by the Saas Pass 2U1 
 
 04. From Vogogna to Vispach. Monte Moro 202 
 
 1. Pizzo Bianco 2fri 
 
 2. From Slacugnaga to Zermatt by the \Veis.sthor . 264 
 
 3. Stellihoni. From the 3Iattmarkalp h> Zermatt. Adler 
 
 Pass. Allalin Pass 2tio 
 
 4. Shrine of Fee. Alphubeljoch 260 
 
 5. Gassenried Pass. From Saas to the Simplon Hospice. 
 Mattwaldgrat 200 
 
 05. From Vispach to Zermatt, and by the Alatterjoch to 
 Aosta 207 
 
 *■)(). Zermatt and its Environs. Kiflelberg and Goriier (irat 270 
 
 1. Glacier-e.xcursions from the Rifl'el 274 
 
 2. E.vcursion round Monte Rosa 275 
 
 3. Excursions from Zermatt 275 
 
 07. The Canton of Appenzell. Heiden , Gais , Weissbad, 
 W'ildkirchli, Hohenkasten, Sentis 270 
 
 1. The Chapel of St. Antoni. Kaien. Gabris .... 27S 
 
 2. From the Weissbad to the Uhine Valley over the Hohen- 
 kasten '. 2S(> 
 
 3. From Gais to Altstiidten in the \'allev of the Rhine over 
 
 the Stoss ■ 28(» 
 
 4. From Appenzell to St. Gall. Frcilichsegg. Voglisegg. 
 Freudenberg 281 
 
 5. From Weissbad to Wildhaus in the Tuggeuburg . . . 282 
 
 08. From Rorschach to Coire 282 
 
 1. St. Luziensteig 284 
 
 ()9. Uagatz and Pfafters 28;') 
 
 1. Excursiuns from Kagatz. Piz Aiun 287 
 
 2. From Ragatz to Reicheuau 287 
 
 70. Coire (Chur) • . 288 
 
 1. Mittenberg. Spontiskopfe 290 
 
 71. From Wyl through the Tog'renburg to Haag in the 
 ^■alley of the Rhine 290 
 
 1. Fronj Starkenbach to \Ve,sen by Amden (AmmonI 291 
 
 72. From Wesen to the Baths of Stachelberg. Glarus . 292 
 
 1. The Schilt 293 
 
 2. Pantenbrucke. The Upper Sandalp. TOdi .... 294 
 
 3. From the Baths of Stachelberg to Dissentis by the Upper 
 Sandalp and the Sandlirn ' . . . . 295 
 
 4. Fnmi the Baths of Stachelberg by the Claridengrat to the 
 Maderanerthal " 295 
 
 5. From the Baths of Stachelberg to Ilanz l>y the Kistenpas.s 295 
 
 73. From the Batlis of Stachelberg to Altorf. Klausen . '-290
 
 XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 Route Page 
 
 74. From Wadenswyl . Rirhterswyl. or Rapperscliwyl to 
 Einsiedelii 297 
 
 1. Hoch-Etzel. Schonhoden 299 
 
 75. From Einsiedelii to Schwyz and Hrunnen .... 301 
 
 1. Morgarteu 301 
 
 76. From Schwyz to Glarus by the Pragel 302 
 
 1. Wiggis-Chain 304 
 
 2. Olarnisch 304 
 
 77. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernl-Thal . . . 305 
 
 1. Over the Col de Flims or the Col de Segnes .... 306 
 
 2. Over the Panix Pass 306 
 
 3. From Matt to Sargans by the Rieseten-Pass .... 306 
 
 4. From Elm to Sargans by the Ramina-Furclen or the Foo Pass 306 
 
 78. From Coire to Andermatt. Oberalp 307 
 
 1. From ^'ersam to Spliigen bv the Liichli Pass .... 307 
 
 2. Piz Mundaun . . . . ' 30S 
 
 3. Lugnetz Valley 308 
 
 4. Piz Murann 310 
 
 5. From Dissentis over the Lukmaniur Pa.>;s to Olivone . . 310 
 
 6. From Dissentis over the Sandalp Pass to Stachelberg . 310 
 
 7. From Scdrun over the Kreiizli Pass or the Brunni Pass to 
 Amstag 310 
 
 S. Source of the Vorder-Rhein 311 
 
 79. From Dissentis to Rellinzona. Lukmaiiier .... 312 
 
 1. From Perdatsch to the Cristallinenthal 313 
 
 80. Prattigau, Davos, Belfort, Schyn 314 
 
 1. From Klosters to Lavin and Siis in the Engadine by the 
 Vereina Pass, the Laviner Joch, or the Silvretto Pass . 316 
 
 2. From Davos to Scanfs in the Engadine by the Scaletta Pass 317 
 
 3. From Davr)s-Dorfli to Siis in the Engadine bv the Fluela 317 
 
 4. From Davos to Coire by the Strela Pass 317 
 
 5. From Thusis to Conters 320 
 
 81. From Coire to Ponte (and Samaden) in the Engadine 
 
 by the Albida Pass 320 
 
 82. From Coire to Samaden by the Julier 321 
 
 1. The Stsetzer Horn 322 
 
 2. From Lenz to the Baths of Alveneu and Bergiin . . . 322 
 
 3. From Stalla to Casaccia in the Val Bregaglia bv the 
 Septimer * . . 324 
 
 83. The Upper Engadine from the Maloja to Samaden. Pont- 
 resjna and its Environs. Piz Languard 325 
 
 1. Lake of Cavloccio. Forno Glacier. Fall of the Ordlegna 326 
 
 2. From the Maloja over the Muretto Pass to Chiesa and Sondrio 327 
 
 3. From Sils-Maria to the Fex Glacier 327 
 
 4. From Silvaplana to Pontresina by St. Moritz .... 328 
 
 5. From Silvaplana over the Surlej Alp to Pontrt-sina . . 328 
 
 6. Mountain excursions from St. Moritz. Piz "Nair . . . 329 
 
 7. Muottas. Piz Ot 330 
 
 8. Excursions from Pontresina 333 
 
 84. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine . . 335 
 
 1. Piz Uertsch. Piz Kesch. Piz Mezzem 336 
 
 2. Piz Griatschouls 336 
 
 3. From Zernetz to St. Maria in the Miinsterthal by the 
 Ofener and Buft'alora Passes 337 
 
 4. Piz Mezdi. Piz Linard. Val Tasna. Futschoel Pass . 337 
 
 5. Piz Chiampatsch 338 
 
 6. From the Baths of Tharasp to St. Maria bv the Scarl-Thal 338 
 
 7. Piz Pisoc ' 339
 
 CONTENTS. XV 
 
 Rimtr Patje 
 
 85. From Samadi-n toTiraim l.y ihc I'.oriiiiiH. ami to ('olico 
 
 by the Valtellina 33*.) 
 
 1. From the Bcrnina Hospico tn Bormin 34U 
 
 2. Piz Lagalp 340 
 
 S. Fontpath from tlir Bernina Inn f<i I'osctiiavo .... 340 
 
 4. Pizzo Sa.s.<;all)() 341 
 
 5. From Tirano t.. CDlici Hirnufih the Val Tellina . . . 342 
 
 86. From Tirano to Naudcrs by the Stelvio 342 
 
 1. From Bftrmio to St. Catorina in the Val Fnrva 343 
 
 '2. iMnnte Confinale. Piz Umbrail 343 
 
 3. From Bormio to Ponte in the Engadinc 343 
 
 4. From St. Maria (on the Stelvio-routc) to St. Maria in the 
 Miinsterthal bv the Worm.«er Joch (Umbrail Pa.s.s) 344 
 
 5. The Ortler ." 345 
 
 6. The Three Holy Springs 445 
 
 87. From Naudcr?! to Hregeiiz by Laiidcck and Feldkirch. 
 Finstenniinz. .Vrlberjr 347 
 
 1. Valley of Jlontatun. Sce.saplana 350 
 
 2. The Gehhardsberg near Bregenz 351 
 
 3. Pfander. Bregenzer Wald. Schrocken 351 
 
 88. From Coire to SpHigen. Via Mala 352 
 
 1. From Thusi.s to Tiefenkasten hv the new Schvn road 354 
 
 2. Lake of Liisch '. . . . 355 
 
 3. Piz Beverin 356 
 
 4. From Andeer to Stalla by the \'aletta Pa,'<.<i .... 356 
 
 5. From Canictil to Pianazzo by the Made.'^imo Pass 3-57 
 
 89. From Spliigon to the Lake of ("omo 358 
 
 90. From Chiavenna to Samaden. Malo.ja 360 
 
 1. From Castasegna to Soglio 361 
 
 2. The Albigna Valley 362 
 
 91. From Spliigen to lUdiin/.ona. Bernardino .... 362 
 
 1. Source of the Hinter-Rhein 362 
 
 92. From Bellinzona to Como (and Milan). Lake of Lugano 365 
 
 1. Monte Camoghe. Monte Cenere 365 
 
 2. Monte Generoso 366 
 
 93. Lugano and its Environs 366 
 
 1. Monte S. Salvadore 368 
 
 2. Monte Bre 36K 
 
 3. M(mte Caprino 368 
 
 94. From Bellinzona to Magadino and Locarno .... 369 
 
 1. From Locarno to Domo d'O^sola liy the valley,'; of <'ento- 
 
 valli and Vigezza 370 
 
 2. From Locarno to Airolo by the \al Maggia .... 370 
 
 95. Lago Maggiore. The Borromoan Islamls 370 
 
 1. Railway from Arena to 3Iilan 375 
 
 96. From Stresa to Varallo. .Monte Mottcrone. Lake of 
 Orta. Val Sesia 375 
 
 1. The Sacro Monte near Orta 376 
 
 2. The Sacro M.mte near Varallo 377 
 
 3. From Varallo through the ^'al Sermcuza ami over tin- 
 
 Col di Bottigia to Macugnaga 378 
 
 4. From Varallo to Le Breuil by Gressoney 378 
 
 97. From Luino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio on the 
 Lake of Como. Lake of Lugano ....... 379
 
 XVI MAPS AND PANORAMAS. 
 
 Route Page 
 
 98. The Lake of Coino 381 
 
 1. The Lake of Lecco 38G 
 
 2. From Lecco to Bergamo 38G 
 
 '6. By land from Como to Bellaggio via Erba 387 
 
 yy. From Como to Milan 388 
 
 Index 391 
 
 Maps and Panoramas. 
 
 1. General Map of Switzerland: before the Title-page. 
 
 2. 3Iap of the District between Schaffhauseu and Constance: 
 RR. 9, 11, 12, 16, 17^ between pp. 18, 19. 
 
 3 Map of the L a k « of Constance: KR. 10, IG, 17 i between pp. 20, 21. 
 
 4. Map of the Lake of Zurich: RR. 13, 18, 19. 74: between 
 pp. 38, 39. 
 
 5. Panorama from the R i g i K u 1 m : between pp. 62, 63. 
 
 6. Map of the Lake of Lucerne: RR. 14, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 2o ; 
 between pp. 66, 67. 
 
 7. Map of the Environs of the St. Gotthard: RR. 23, 24, 30, 31. 
 32, 33, 78, 79 ; between pp. 76, 77. 
 
 8. View of the Alps from Bern: between pp. 94, 95. 
 
 9. Map of the Bernese O b e r 1 a n d : RR. 29, 36 ; between pp. 98, 99. 
 
 10. Panorama from the F a u 1 li o r n : between pp. 120, 121. 
 
 11. Map of the Upper Valais : RR. 34, 35, 63 ; between pp. 138, 139. 
 
 12. Panorama from the Eggischhorn: between pp. 140, 141. 
 
 13. Map of the Lower V a 11 e v of the R h o n e , from the Lake of Cieneva 
 to the Liitschen - Thai : RU. 36, 37, 39, 50, and 60 — 63; between 
 pp. 146, 147. 
 
 14. ilap of the Lake of Geneva: RR. 40, 41, 46, 48, 49, 50, 51: 
 between pp. 188, 189. 
 
 15. 3Iap of the Vallev of Chamounv: RR. 53 — 57; between pp. 
 216, 217. 
 
 16. Panorama from the Flegere: between pp. 220, 221. 
 
 17. Map of the Environs o f t h e Great S t. B e r n a r d , from Martignj 
 to Aosta : RR. 57, 58, 59, 61a ; between pp. 236, 237. 
 
 18. Map of the Environs o f M Oii t e Rosa: UR. 61, 64, 65, 66 ; between 
 pp. •270, 271. 
 
 19. Panorama from the Gorner Grat : between pp. 272, 273. 
 
 20. 31ap of the Canton of Appenzell: RR. 18, 67, 68, 71: betweei, 
 pp. 276, 277. 
 
 21. Map of Glarus: RR. 72, 73, 76, 77-, between pp. 292, 293. 
 
 22. Map of the V o r der- R hein thai : RR. 78, 88; between pp. 306, 307 
 
 23. Map of the Upper Engadine and Bernina: RIJ. 82, 83, 85 = 
 between pp. 326, 3'27. 
 
 24. Panorama from the Piz Languard: between pp. 332. 333. 
 
 25. Map of the Lower Engadine: RR. 80, 81, 82, 84, 86; between 
 pp. 336, 337. 
 
 26. Map of the District from the Lukmanier to the Maloja: RR. 23, 
 79, 82, 89—91 : between pp. 358, 359. 
 
 27. Map of the Italian Lakes: RR. 92—95, 97, 98: between pp. 366, 367, 
 
 28. Key Map of Switzerland: after the Index. 
 
 Plana of Towns : Bale, Bern. Geneva. Lausanne, Lucernej 
 Milan. Zurich.
 
 I. Plan of Excursion. 
 
 Season of the Year. Companions. Distribution nf Time. 
 
 Tlie traveller will effect a considerable saving of money and time 
 by preparing his plan for a tour before leaving home. If a pedestrian 
 expedition is contemplated, delays are often avoided by forward- 
 ing luggage by post. By the aid of the following pages it will be 
 easy to determine precisely the number of days an excursion will 
 occupy , the most convenient resting places — in fact how each 
 hour may be disposed of to the greatest advantage, provided always 
 the elements favour the traveller. The latter contingency is unfortu- 
 nately not always to be relied upon . for in no country is the 
 weather more caprii-ious than in Switzerland , a circumstance 
 amply a(XOunted for by natural causes. 
 
 Season. It may be accepted as a rule, that the most favour- 
 able period for an excursion into Switzerland is from the middle 
 of July to the middle of September; for expeditions among the 
 higher Alps the latter half of August. 
 
 It frequently happens that snow accompanies rain in elevatetl 
 regions. Thus on .July 13th. 1843, the Rigi and the r>erneso 
 Oberland were visited with so heavy a fall that they were ren- 
 dered inaccessible to travellers for several days. On July 2nd, 
 1848, the snow on the (femmi was U/.j ft. deep, and did not 
 disappear for some days. These are. however, exceptional ocur- 
 rences; in ordinary seasons the snow disappears from the Rigi and 
 the route through the Bernese Oberland at the beginning of Juno, 
 but not till later on the Furca, the Grimsel, and the Gemmi. 
 
 Companions. A party of two can be accommodated in a one- 
 horse carriage or in the same room at a hotel , whilst a third 
 would often be found 'de trop'. The more the number is ex- 
 tended, as a general rule, the greater are the inconvenience and 
 the certainty that many of the true objects of travel will be 
 sacrificed. The single traveller who has attained some pro- 
 ficiency in the language of the country will most speedily become 
 acquainted with the people, their characteristics, and their land, 
 as he is necessarily compelled to seek such society as the occa- 
 sion affords. 
 
 )i,«DEKER, Switzerland, .')tli Edition. h
 
 XVIII 1. PLAN OF EXCURSION. 
 
 Distribution of Time. Four Weeks, as the annexed plan 
 shows, will suffice for an active and observant traveller to visit 
 the most interesting portions of Switzerland. A greater or less 
 proportion of walking may be indulged in as inclination prompts. 
 
 By the first steamer in I'l^ hr. from Fviedrichshafen to Constance , by Davs 
 railway (R. 9) in 13j4 hr. to Schaffhattsen^ by railway in 10 min. to 
 JJachsen. On foot in 1J4 hr. to the Castle of Lavfen, visit the 
 Falls of the Rhine; cross the Rhine below the falls, ascend to Xeu- 
 hausen (R. 11), return by the railway - bridge to Dachsen, and in 
 
 2 hrs. by railway to Zurich 1 
 
 Zurich and the Uetliberg (R. 13), Lake of Ziirich (R. 18) .... 1 
 
 From Ziirich in 1 hr. to Horgen by first steamer, to Zug in 3 hrs. bv 
 diligence (or from Zurich to Zug by railway in DJ4 hr.), and to 
 Imtnensee or Arth in 1 hr. by steamer, or from Arth to Goldau: 
 On foot to the Rigi-Kvlm in 3i|2 hrs. (RR. 14, 18, 19, 21, 22) . . 1 
 
 Descent from the Rigi in 2'j2 hrs. to Waggis, bv steamer in ijo hr. 
 to Lucerne (RR. 22, 23, 26) ". . 1 
 
 By steamer on the Lake of Lucerne in 23J4 hrs. to Fliielen^ by carriage 
 in 2 hrs. to Amstdg^ on foot in 5 hrs. to Andermatt by the St. Gott- 
 hard route, in 6 hrs. to Hospenthal^ or V\i hrs. to Real'p (RR. 23, 33) 1 
 
 By diligence over the Furca to the Glacier of the Rhone, on foot by 
 the JIaienwand and the Grimsel to the Hospice (R. 33) : from Ander- 
 matt to the Hospice in 7 hrs 1 
 
 On foot to Meiringen by the Haslithal (Fall of the Aare at the Hand- 
 eck) in 6 hrs. from the Hospice (R. 32) 1 
 
 On foot from Meiringen (Falls of the Reichenbach) through the Ber- 
 nese Oberland, by Rosenlavi and the Scheideck, to Grindelwald; from 
 Meiringen to the Scheideck 5^l-> hrs.. thence to Grindelwald 2>|2 hrs. 
 Glacier of Grindelicald (R. 29g) . ' 1 
 
 Bv taking an additional day, the Faulhorn mav be ascended from 
 the Scheideck (4 hrs.), descent to Grindelwald 3 hrs. (R. 29 h, i). 
 
 On foot from Grindelwald by the Wengern Alp in 8 hrs. to Lauter- 
 brunnen (Staubbacli), and thence by carriage to Interlaken in IIJ2 hr. 
 (R. 29f, e) ■ . . 1 
 
 If Lauterbrunnen be made the resting - place on the following day, 
 Miirren and the cascade of Schmadribach (R. 29f) may be visited. 
 
 Morning at Interlaken i by steamer in I hr. to the Giessbach 
 (R. 29d. 1) - - . . . . 1 
 
 The following morning return to Interlaken by steamer in 1 hr., by 
 omnibus in '[-'hr. to Xei>ha>/s, thence by steamer in I hr. to Thini 
 (R. 29 e), by carriage in 1 hr. to Wi7nmis (pedestrians leave the 
 steamer at Spiez and proceed in l'J4 hr. to Wimmis) ; on foot or 
 horseback in 5 hrs. to the summit of the Niesen (R. 29b) .. . I 
 
 Descent from the jMesen to Frutigen in 3iJ4 hrs. ; thence by carriage 
 in 13|4, or on foot in 2iJ2 hrs. to Kandersteg (R. 36) 1 
 
 On foot from Kandersteg in 7 hrs. over the Gemmi' to the Baths of 
 Lenk (R. 36) 1 
 
 (Jn foot to Svslen in 2' (2 hrs. (R. 36), bv carriage in 2 hrs. to Vis- 
 pach (R. 63), on foot to St. Nicolaiis in k'^'n hrs. (R. 65) ... • 1 
 
 On foot to the Riffel in 8 hrs. (R. 66) 1 
 
 On foot from the Riffel Inn to the Gorner Grat and back 3 hrs. : in 
 the evening to Zermatt 2 hrs. (R. 66) 1 
 
 Return on foot to Vispach in 8 hrs. (R. 65) 1 
 
 By diligence in 5 hrs. to Sion, thence by railway in 1 hr. to Mar- 
 'tigny (R. 63) 1 
 
 On foot to Chamouni/ bv the Col de Balmt or the Ti'te Noire in 9 hrs. 
 (RR. 55, 56) ..." 1
 
 I. FLAN OF EXCURSION XIX 
 
 Days 
 
 Chamouny (R. u4) 1 
 
 By diligence to Geneva in 6V^ hrs. (K. 53) 1 
 
 Geneva and its Environs (RR. 48, 49) 1 
 
 By steamer on the Lake of Geneva in 3 hrs. to Lausanne, some liours 
 at Lausanne, and in the evening by last steamer in I'Ja hr. to 
 
 Vnieneuve (R. 50) I 
 
 On loot to (Jhillony Afontrenx, ClarenK, Vevay (R. 50), 3 hrs. walking; 
 but by halting at the variovis points of attraction an entire day 
 
 may be spent 1 
 
 Bv (diligence and) railway from Vevau \o Freibmg \n !^^\2hvf,. (R. 41| 1 
 
 By railway to Hern in 1 hr. (R. 41) 1 
 
 I'.y railway to Bale in 4 hrs. fR. 5) I 
 
 Should the traveller have a few days more at coniniainl, the\ 
 may be devoted very advantageously to Eastern Switzerland 
 (Appenzell, Bad Pfaffers, Via Mala. Ipper Eiigadiiie). whence the 
 Italian Lakes are roiiveniently visited. Rorschach (p. 37) or 
 Ziirirh is recommended as head-quarters (comp. K. I8j. 
 
 On loot from Rorschach to Heiden, to Troyen by the Kaien, and tu Days 
 Gaix by the Gahris, in all 7 hrs. (R. 67) 1 
 
 On foot from Gais to Weissbad, to Wildkirchli, and the Ebenalp ; re- 
 turn to Weissbad, thence to Appenzell, 6 hrs. fR. 67) I 
 
 On foot from .Vppenzell to Gais, and to Altsfadten in the Valley of 
 the Rhine bv the Sloss in 5 hrs. fR. 67), bv train in 1ij2 hr. to 
 Ragatz (R. 68) 1 
 
 Pfdffevs and Ooive (RR. 69, 70i I 
 
 By diligence in 3 hrs. to T/iusis, on foot in 3 hrs. by the Via Mala 
 as far as the third bridge over the Rhine, and return to Thusis 
 (R. 88), on foot in 4 hrs. by the Sch>m Pass to Tiefenkasten (R. 80) I 
 
 By diligence in 6'i3 hrs. over the Albiila Pass to Ponlv fR. 81), and 
 in 40 min. to Sainaden (R. 84): on foot in 1' ■_> hr. to Pontresina 
 IR. 83) 1 
 
 A.scent of the Piz LangKard (R. 8^3) I 
 
 By diligence in 7'|3 hrs. over the Bernina to Tirano, thence by 3Ies- 
 sagerie to Sondrio in 3 hrs. (R. 85) (or by diligence in Sija hrs. 
 over the Maloja to Chiarenna and Colico) I 
 
 By Messagerie to Coliro in 5 hrs. (R. 85), thence by steamer to Como 
 in 3 hrs. (R. 98) (Train to 3Iilan in li|2 hr.) I 
 
 Return by the Lake of Como as far as Menaggio ( Villa CarloUa, p. 383. 
 and park of the Villa Serbelloni, p. 384), and bv Porlezza to Lugano, 
 see p. 380 " I 
 
 By diligence from Lugano in 2 hrs. to Luino (R. 97), by steamer to 
 the Borroniean Islands in I'i'j hr., and to Arnna in 1 hr. (Railway 
 to Turin, Genoa (in 6 hrs.) etc., see Baedeker's X. Ilahi] ... 1 
 
 Ijv omnibus in 3 hrs. to Ortn on the lake of that name, by rowing- 
 l>oat to Omegua in l'|2 hr.. bv carriage or on foot to Giarellona 
 (R. 90) tor on foot in 3 hrs. to the Sacro Monte (p. 376), and bv 
 the Monte Molleronc (p. 375) to Stresa (p. 37\1, or to Bareno (p. 373)1. 
 and by diligence to Dona dOssola (R. 63) 1 
 
 By diligence over the Siinplon to B)-ieg and Vispa<-/i (R. 63) . . I 
 
 instead of the passage of the Bernina (R. 8,)). choice ma\ be 
 made between the Spliijren (RR. SS. SO), and the St. (intthard
 
 XX 11. TKAVKLLINO EXPENSES. MONEY. 
 
 (K. 23). The St. Gotthard is the most beautiful of all the Al- 
 pine passes, after which the Spliigen and the Simplon possess 
 equal claims; the former is more interesting on the X., the latter 
 on the S. side. The pass of the Great St. Bernard (R. 58) pre- 
 sents the fewest points of interest, irrespective of its hospice. 
 
 The following Alpine Excursion is recommended to ro- 
 bust and practised pedestrians . as one of the most imposing in 
 Switzerland : Erom Chamouiiy by the Col de Bonhomme. the Col 
 de la Seigne. Courmayeur. the Col de Ferret (R. 57). the hospice 
 of the Great St. Bernard. Aosta (R. 58). Chatillon. the Matter- 
 joch, Zermatt [R. 66), Saas , Monte Moro , Macugnaga (R. 64). 
 Yarallo. Orta. and Monte Motterone to Lago Maggiore (R. 95). 
 The excursion will occupy 10 or 11 days of 9 to 10 hrs. : guides 
 not absolutely necessary, but desirable for the passes. 
 
 The most celebrated Points of View, for the most part easy 
 of access and much frequented, are: 
 
 J . In the Jura ( tlie Alps in the distance, the lower mountains of 
 Switzerland to the N.E. in the ioreground. and more to the E. the lake* 
 of Bienne, Neuchatel, and Geneva) : Hotel Schweizer/iof (pp. 23, 25) near the 
 Falls of the Rhine: the Weissenstein (p. 11) irear Soleure •, the highest point 
 of the old road from the Miuisferi/ial above Bienne (p. 7) : the Chattmont 
 (p. 167) and the Col des LogeK (p. 168) in the canton of Xeuchatel : the 
 •'Signal de Bougy (p. 190) and the Dole (p. 190) in the Canton de Vaud. 
 
 2. Nearer the Alps or among the Lower Alps-. 
 
 (a). X. of the Alps : the Kaien (p. 278) and the Chapel of >S. Antonu 
 (p. 278) in the canton of Appeuzell ; the UetUhevg (p. 31) near Ziirich ; 
 the Rigl (p. 56), Mythen (p. 55), Pilatus (p. 52). and the Fvohiialp (p. 71), 
 near the Lake of Lucerne: the Xiesen (p. 101) near the Lake of Thun :, the 
 ■lainan (p. 158) in the canton of Freiburg : the fiaUve (p. 187) in Savoy, 
 near Geneva. 
 
 (b.) S. of the Alps: park of the l'/7/a Herhelloni (p. 384) on the Lake of 
 Como : Monte Generoso (p. 366) and Monte 8. Salvadoie (p. 368) near the Lake 
 of Lugano; Monte Motterone (p. 375) between the lakes Maggiore and Orta. 
 
 3. Among the High Alps: the Piz Langnard (p. 3:32) and I'iz Ot 
 (p. 330) in the canton of the Grisons : the Schynige Platte (p. 107), the Paul- 
 horn (p. 119). the Mannlichen (p. 118), the Wengern Alp (p. 114), Miirren 
 (p. 112) and the fichilthorn (p. 112) in the Bernese-Oberland ; the Torrenthorn 
 (p. 149), the Bella Tola (p. 250). the Gorner Grat (p. 272). the Eggischhon 
 (p. 141) in the Valais ; the Col de Balme fp. 227) and the FU-g'ere fp. 220) 
 near Chamouny. 
 
 II. Travelling Expenses. Money. 
 
 riie expense of a tour in Switzerland depends entirely upon 
 the resources, habits, and inclination of the traveller. The pe- 
 destrian's daily expenditure may (excl. guides) be estimated 
 at about 10 s., if he frequents the best hotels; but a considerable 
 saving may be effected by selecting houses of more moderate pre- 
 tensions, and avoiding the mid -day tables d'hote. The traveller 
 who avails himself of all the public conveyances , frequents the 
 best hotels, and in mountainous districts engages the services of 
 Jiorsp* and jriiirles . must be prepared to expend 20 — 25 s. per
 
 III. HOTELS AND PP:NSI0N> XXI 
 
 (iieni at least. If ladies or children be of the party, the expenses 
 are rather proportionably increased than diminished. 
 
 The Swiss monetary system was assimilated to that of France 
 in 1B54. Coins of o , 2, 1, and V^ fr. in silver; '20, 10, and 
 ;") Rappen (centimes) in plated copper; 2 and i Happen in 
 copper. 1 fr. =; 100 Rappen = (in German money) 8 Silber- 
 groschen or 28 Rhenish kreuzers = 9'V4 d- French gold is the 
 most convenient coin, especially for N. Italy. German florins 
 (2 fr. 15 c). in the larger towns and hotels of the N. and K. of 
 Switzerland, are exchanged for 2 fr. 10 c. , dollars (3 fr. Tf) c.j 
 for 3 fr. 70 c English sovereigns (25 fr.) and banknotes are 
 received at the full value at all the principal hotels and towns in 
 Switzerland and N. Italy. The circular notes of 10 L, issued by 
 many of the English banks, are recommended as a safe and con- 
 venient form for transporting large sums. 
 
 III. Hotels and Pensions. 
 
 Switzerland may be said to have a specialty for hotels ; few 
 better are to be met with in any part of the world. The modern 
 establishments at Geneva. Vevay. Ziirich. Lucerne, and Interlaken 
 are models of organization on a most extensive scale. The 
 smaller establishments are often equally well conducted; indeed 
 in French and German Switzerland a really bad hotel is rarely 
 met with. 
 
 The ordinary charges in the tirst-class hotels are : Bedroom 
 2 fr. and upwards , table d'hote without wine at 1 o'clock 3 or 
 4 fr. , at 4 o'clock or later 4 or 5 fr. ; breakfast [tea. or coffee, 
 bread, butter, and honey) l'/.2 fr. in the public room, 2 fr. in 
 the apartment of the traveller, wax-randle 1 fr. . service I fr. ; 
 supper generally a la carte. 
 
 In the hotels of more modest pretension the following charges 
 may be accepted as the average: bedroom I'/.j fr.. breakfast 1 fr.. 
 table d'hote 2 to 3 fr. , service discretionary , no charge for 
 bougie : in fact about half the charges of the flrst-class establish- 
 ments. It generally happens that the best accommodation in 
 the largest hotels is reserved for families . whilst the solitary 
 pedestrian finds himself no better off than he would have been 
 in a less pretentious establishment, and no corresponding re- 
 fluction is made in his bill. 
 
 It must also be admitted that the estimation in which hotels 
 are held varies very much with the temperament of the visitor^ 
 themselves. Some are more exacting than others . give orders 
 totally at variance with the (-ustoms of the country, and express 
 great dissatisfaction if their wishes are not immediately comp]ie>d 
 with, the unreasonableness of whii-h requires no comment.
 
 XXII IV. PASSPORTS. 
 
 In the dull season (October to Jmie) many hotels arc con- 
 verted into 'Pensions' or boarding-houses , in which guests are 
 received by the week on terms ranging from 3 to 8 fr. per diem. 
 This charge comprises bedroom , breakfast , table d'hote without 
 wine, and supper (tea, bread and butter, and c^old meat); attend- 
 ance about 5 fr. per month. Establishments for this express 
 object abound in the neighbourhood of Lucerne . Geneva , Inter- 
 laken, etc. 
 
 Wine is generally a source ui' much vexation. The ordinary table 
 wines are often so bad that refuge has to, be taken in those of a more 
 expensive class , which is indeed the very aim and object of the landlord. 
 The wisest course is to select a wine which is the growth of the country •, 
 in "N. and E. Switzerland the produce of Schaffhattsen or Wintertlmr is 
 recommended, in the Grisons Malans (p. 284), in the W. of Switzerland 
 Lacote (p. 190), Lavaux (p. 193), Yvorne (p. 200), and Ncuchatel (p. 166). • 
 
 If a Prolonged Stay is made at an hotel, the bill should he de- 
 manded every 3 or 4 days, by which means errors, whether accidental or 
 designed, are more easily detected. In the case of a departiire early in 
 the morning, the hill should be obtained over-night. It is a favourite 
 practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the hurry and 
 confusion render overcharges less liable to discovery. 
 
 IV. Passports. 
 
 In Switzerland and IS . Italy as well as in Austria passports 
 are now unnecessary. On the whole, however, taking into con- 
 sideration that these documents are issued by the English For- 
 eign Oftice on very inexpensive terms , and moreover that cases 
 of unexpected difttculty may arise , when they are of service 
 to the traveller by proving his identity and respectability , it 
 is unwise not to be provided with a passport. The following 
 are the principal passport-agents in London : Lee and Carter, 
 440 West Strand: Dorrel and So)i . 15 Charing Cross: E. Stan- 
 ford, 6 Charing Cross; W. J. Adams. 59 Fleet Street. 
 
 In France the obnoxious system has been revived in 1871. 
 and the passport must be provided with the visa (10 fr.) of 
 a French ambassador or consul, a fa^ot which should be borne in 
 mind by the traveller who intends- 'proceeding to, or returning 
 from Switzerland via France. 
 
 V. Excursions on Foot. 
 
 The pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of 
 travellers; beyond all others he is able, both physically and 
 morally, to enjoy a tour in Switzerland. 
 
 Disposition of Time. The first golden rule for the pedestrian 
 is to start on his way betimes in the morning. Where the con- 
 stitution permits it, a two hours' walk may be accomplished be- 
 fore breakfast. At noon a glass of good wine or beer, if obtain- 
 able, with cold meat, or bread and cheese, form a suitable repast.
 
 V. EXCURSIONS ON KOOT. Will 
 
 — Kepose should be taken diiring the hottest hours . and the 
 journey then continued till 5 or 6 p. ni.. when a substantial 
 meal (evenii-g table d'hote at the principal hotels) may be par- 
 taken of. The traveller's own feelings will best dictate the hour 
 for retiring to bed. 
 
 Luggage. The greatest drawback to the pleasure of an ex- 
 cursion is a superabundance of baggage ; to be provided with an 
 actual sufficiency and no more . may be considered the second 
 golden rule for the traveller. It is impossible to over-estimate 
 the comfort of being independent of that industrious fraternity 
 who make a prey of the overburdened traveller. Who has not ex- 
 perienced the exultation which attends the shouldering of the knap- 
 sack or wielding of the carpet-bag, on quitting a steamboat or rail- 
 way station? Who in his turn has not felt the misery of that moment 
 when, surrounded by his impedimenta' . the luckless tourist is 
 almost distracted by the rival claims of porters, touters. and com- 
 missionaires? A light 'gibeciere' or game-bag, such as may be 
 procured in every town . amply suffices to contain all that is 
 necessary for a fortnight's excursion. A change of flannel skirts 
 and worsted stockings . a few pocket-handkerchiefs . a pair of 
 slippers , and the necessary 'objets de toilette' may be carried 
 with hardly a perceptible increase of fatigue: a piece of green 
 crape or coloured spectacles to protect the eyes from the glare of 
 the snow, and a leather drinking-cup will also prove serviceable. 
 The traveller may have a more extensive reserve of clothing, 
 especially if he proposes to visit towns of importance, but even 
 these should be contained in a valise, which he can easily wield, 
 and may forward from town to town by means of the post. 
 
 Rules. The enthusiastic traveller should curb his ardour at 
 the outset of his excursion, and begin by moderate performances, 
 which should rarely exceed ten hours a day. Animal spirits 
 are too often in excess of powers of endurance ; overstraining the 
 energies on one occasion sometimes incapacitates altogether for 
 several days. No little discrimination is often requisite to deter- 
 mine when walking should be abandoned for the ease of a car- 
 riage ; but all these experiences will be acquired without the aid 
 of a guide-book. Suffice it to say, when a mountain has to be 
 breasted . the prudent pedestrian will pursue the 'even tenor of 
 liis way' (^chi va piano va sano ; chi ra sano va lontano') with 
 regular and steady steps; the novice alone indulges in 'spurts'. 
 If the traveller will have a third golden maxim for his guidance 
 it may be: 'When fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases'. 
 
 Excursions amongst the Higher Mountains should not be 
 undertaken before July, nor at any period after a long continu- 
 ance of rain or snow. Glaciers should, if possible, be explored 
 before 10 a. m.. after which hour the ravs of the sun soften the
 
 XXIV VI. MAPS. 
 
 crust of ice formed during the night over the fissures and cre- 
 vasses. It is hardly necessary to state that Experienced 
 Guides are absolutely indispensable for such excursions. 
 
 The anticipations of a tour in Switzerland , which is nsually 
 painted "couleur de rose", not iinfret^uently receive a rude shock 
 from actual experience. The first Night in a Chalet dispels 
 many illusions. Whatever poetry there may be theoretically in 
 a bed of fodder, the usual concomitants of the cx)ld night-air 
 piercing abundant apertures, the ringing of the cow-bells, the 
 ;^onorous grunting of the swine , and the undiscarded garments, 
 hardly contribute to that refreshing slumber of which the wearied 
 traveller stands so much in need. 
 
 Over all the movements of the pedestrian the Weather 
 holds despotic sway ; those who claim acquaintance with the 
 elements and their signs will tell him of numberless indications 
 by which either foul or favourable weather may be predicted. 
 It is wise, before iindertaking a long or difficult expedition , to 
 consult these would-be prophets, whose prognostications, although 
 not infallible, may often prove of value. 
 
 Health. Finally a word may be acceptable on the subject 
 of the Wounds and Bruises which few altogether escape in 
 a protracted excursion. Tincture of arnica is efficacious in cases 
 of this kind ; and , indeed , if rubbed on the limbs after much 
 fatigue, it braces and invigorates. 
 
 Saturnine ointment is serviceable in Inflammation of the 
 skin, an inconvenience not unlikely to arise from exposure to the 
 glare of the sun on the snow. Others recommend cold cream, 
 and, especially for the lips, collodion, glycerine, etc. 
 
 For Diarrhoea, 15 drops of a mixture of equal parts of 
 tincture of opium and aromatic tincture may be safely taken 
 every two hours until relief is afforded. The homoeopathic 
 tincture of camphor is also recommended. 
 
 VI. Maps. 
 
 1. Maps which comprise the whole of Switzerland on 
 one sheet (mounted on linen) : 
 
 *Zieylers Map of Switzerland (1 : 380,000), with explanations 
 and index, pub. by Wurster and Co. at Winterthur, 4th Ed. 186H. 
 Price 12 fr. 
 
 Ziegler's Hypsometr. Map. (1 : 380,000), 4 sheets 20 fr. 
 
 Leuthold's Map. (1 : 400,000), pub. by Leuthold of Zurich, 10 fr. 
 
 Keller's Map (1 -.450,000), without plans 0, with plans 7 fr. 
 ^Leuzinyer's Map (1:400,000), a reduced copy of Dnfour's 
 Map, pub. in 1867. Price 10 fr. 
 
 2. Topographic Maps on a larger scale:
 
 VI. MAPS. 
 
 XXV 
 
 a. Of the whole of Switzerland. 
 *Topograj)hic Map of Switzerland, from surveys made by order 
 of the Federal authorities (under the superintendence of General 
 Dufour); scale 1:100,000; 25 sheets, each 1 to 21/2 fr. (not 
 mounted). Altitudes in French mf'tres. The following sketih 
 exhibits the districts embraced by each. — A copy of this map 
 on the reduced scale of 1 : 2r)0,000, which will comprise the 
 whole of Switzerland in 4 sheets, is in course of execution. 
 The two N. and the S. W. sheets have been recently completed. 
 
 b. Of single Cantons. 
 Maps on a still larger scale, also based on ordnance surveys. 
 Aargau^ scale 1 : oO,000, 4 sheets, each 4 fr. 
 *Freiburg, 1 : 50,000, 4 sheets, each 5 fr. 
 *St. Gall and Appenzell. 1 : 25.000 , U) Maps, in 4 section-. 
 ea(th 7 fr. 
 
 (ilarus, 1 : 50,000, by Ziegler, (5 fr., mounted U fr. 
 *Gene>m, 1:25,000, 4 sheets, the whole 12 fr. 
 Thurgau, 1:80,000, 1 sheet, 6 fr. 
 Grisons, i sheet, mounted 5 fr. 
 
 *ZiiricK 1 : 25.000. 32 sheets, each '/o to 2 fr. (Nos. IS, 21. 
 22, 26, 27, 31 contain Ziirich, the Uetliberg. and the Lake). 
 3 Reliefs. 
 
 M. E. Beck of Bern is about to publish an admirable relief- 
 map of Switzerland on the scale of 1 : 100.000, area 60 sq. ft., 
 25 fr. per sq. ft. Heck's reliefs on a smaller si-ale are also well
 
 XXVI VII. GUJDES. 
 
 executed: .Switzerland ( 1 : 500,000) in one jnap, 18l'r.. coloured 
 25 fr.; another (1 : 900.000) 8 fr.. to fold up lOfr: Interlakcu 
 and the Oherland (1 : 200,000) 6 fr. ■ Lake of Lucerne (1 : 200,000) 
 
 7 fr. ; Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald 5 fr. ; Valley of P^ngelberg 
 B fr. ; Simplon route and valleys of Vispach (1 : 200,000) 8 fr. 
 
 Burgy's relief-maps . published by Georg at Bale , are also 
 veil executed. 
 
 VII. Guides. 
 
 On such beaten tracks as those of the Rigi, Pilatus. Wengern- 
 Alp, Faulhorn, Scheideck, Grimsel. Gemmi. etc.. the services of 
 a guide may well be dispensed with by the robust pedestrian. 
 
 If the traveller wishes to disencumber himself of his knap- 
 sack , the first urchin he meets will gladly transfer it to his 
 shoulders for a trifling gratuity. For the more difficult and 
 dangerous routes, however, guides are absolutely indispensable ; 
 they will be found, as a class, to be intelligent and respectable 
 men. well versed in their duties, and acquainted with the people 
 and resources of the country. 
 
 The great depots for guides are Thun , Interlaken, Grindel- 
 wald, Meiringen, Lauterbrunnen. Lucerne. Arth. Zug, Martigny. 
 Chamouny. Zermatt, and Pontresina ; for traversing the Alps at 
 any point . guides are always to be met with in the neigh- 
 bouring villages. The ordinary Pay of a Guide is from 6 to 
 
 8 fr. for a day of 8 hrs. He is in most cases bound to carry 
 from 15 to 20 pounds of baggage, and to hold himself at the 
 entire disposition of his employer , whose temporary servant he 
 is. They usually demand 6 fr. a day for the return home; but, 
 as they have nothing to carry, better terms may occasionally be 
 made with them , and they are bound to return by the shortest 
 practicable route. 
 
 Although a guide entails a considerable extra expense upon 
 the traveller . the latter generally receives an ample equivalent. 
 A good guide will point out a multitude of objects which the 
 best maps fail to indicate : he furnishes much useful and inter- 
 esting information upon manners and habits , upon battle-fields 
 and historical incidents, on military routes and positions; and 
 when the traveller reaches his hotel , wearied with the fatigues 
 of the day. the many little services his guide can render him 
 will often be found invaluable. 
 
 Amongst a party of 3 or 4 the expense of a guide is of 
 course greatly diminished; but as he is not bound to carry more 
 than 20 pounds of baggage . tliey may more advantageously en- 
 gage a horse or mule, the conductor of which will serve all the 
 purposes of a guide on the ordinary routes.
 
 YIII. V0ITURIER8 AND H0RSE8. XXVII 
 
 Adult porters are entitled to 75 cent, or 1 I'r. an hour, when 
 not engaged by the day. return included. It is advisable to come 
 to an express understanding previous to engaging their services, 
 a sum being agreed upon which shall comprise food, return, 
 and the inevitable -pourboire' . or extra gratuity. This is the 
 surest way to avoid after disputes and discussions. A certain 
 amount of good fellowship and confidence should subsist between 
 the traveller and the individual who is perhaps to be his sole 
 companion for some days. The judicious traveller will know- 
 when to make with advantage the offer of a cigar or the spirit- 
 flask, such attentions on his part being seldom thrown away. 
 
 Travellers desirous of engaging a thoroughly trustworthy guide 
 should be careful to select one of the Certificated. The 
 guides of this class are required to pass an examination , and 
 are furnished with legal certificates of character and qualifications. 
 
 VIII. Voituriers and Horses. 
 
 (rood vehicles are to be met with in all parts of Switzerland, 
 but should be inspected before any engagement is made. If the 
 Journey is to be of considerable length . it is judicious to have 
 a Written Agreement, which it is usual for the voiturier to 
 conclude by depositing a sum with his employer as earnest- 
 money, afterwards to be added tc the account. The traveller has 
 the right of selecting the hotels where sojourn for the night is 
 to be made , the driver being entitled to determine where rest 
 during the day shall be taken. 
 
 The ordinary charge for a carriage with one horse is 15 fr. 
 per diem, with two horses 25 fr. In the height of summer 
 slightly increased terms are demanded ; the driver expects 1 fr. 
 per horse as a gratuity. Like the guides, the voiturier demands 
 the return-fare to the place where he was engaged, ;mu1 it is of 
 course to the interest of the traveller so to arrange his journey 
 that he may discharge his carriage as near as possible to the 
 home of the driver. 
 
 Keturn-conveyances may frequently be obtained for 10 to 
 15 fr. per day , but the use of them is in some places strictly 
 prohibited. 
 
 From 30 to 40 miles is the average day's journey, a halt being 
 made of 2 or 3 hours about noon : but longer distances than 
 these should be agreed upon for the return. 
 
 In mountainous districts . inaccessible for heavy carriages, 
 small vehicles or chars-a-bancs' , accommodating two persons 
 only, are employed ; they cost from 12 to 15 fr. per diem, fees 
 included. 
 
 A Horse or MuLe posts 10 to 12 fr. per diem; the con- 
 ductor expects a trifling additional gratuity (1—2 fr.). If he
 
 XXVIIl IX. POSTING AND TELEGRAPHS. 
 
 cannot return with his horse on the same day to the spot wlience 
 he started, the following day must be paid for; for example 
 a horse from Hospenthal to the Grimsel is charged '20 fr., 
 because the double journey cannot be accomplished in a day. 
 The robust pedestrian will of course prefer to dispense with the 
 assistance of a horse ; a prolonged ascent on horseback is at- 
 tended with much fatigue, whilst the descent is positively disagree- 
 able. For the fair sex the 'chaises-a-porteurs' are recommended, 
 but even ladies may without difficulty attain the most frequented 
 summits on foot. 
 
 IX. Posting and Telegraphs. 
 
 The postal communications in Switzerland, considering the 
 mountainous nature of the country , are admirably organised, 
 although somewhat slow. The public conveyances for travellers 
 are under the immediate control of government , and are gene- 
 rally well fitted up and provided with respectable drivers and 
 conductors. Private posting is prohibited by law , but the pri- 
 vate diligence or the 'Extrapost' furnished by the postal autho- 
 rities forms a satisfactory substitute. The network of diligence 
 routes under the supervision of government covers the whole 
 country, embraces the Alps . and extends for a considerable 
 distance into N. Italy. 
 
 Diligences. The fare in the coupe in front , and (in sum- 
 mer) the banquette on the top of the vehicle is on ordinary 
 routes 80 c. per league of 3 M. , on mountainous routes 1 fr. 
 15 c. per league; the fare in the interieur 65 c. and 1 fr. 
 respectively. Children of 2 — 7 years of age pay half-fare. Each 
 passenger is allowed 40lbs. of luggage free; overweight is 
 charged for at the ordinary postal tariff. Supplementary car- 
 riages are provided when the diligence is full. These are often 
 light, open vehicles, preferable to the lumbering 'Postwagen'. 
 A seat in one of them may generally be procured by arrange- 
 ment with the conductor. As a rule passengers are consigned 
 to the interieur or to a supplementary carriage in the order in 
 which they are booked. If therefore the traveller has failed 
 tu secure a coupe or banquette seat by early application , he 
 will probably succeed in avoiding the objectionable inte'rieur by 
 delaying to take his ticket till the diligence is about to start. 
 The average speed of these sedate 'mail-coaches' of Switzerland, 
 including stoppages, is about 6 M. per hour on level, and 4 M. 
 per hour on mountainous routes. 
 
 Private Diligences. A diligence may be hired by a party at 
 any of the principal stations, provided they engage all the seats 
 at a charge of I'/o fr. each per league on ordinary, or 1^/4 fr. 
 on mountainous routes. The vehicle is then placed entirely at
 
 IX. POSTING AND TELKGRAPHS. XXIX 
 
 bf disposal of the travellers, who may halt for meals, oic. 
 wherever they desire. 
 
 ExtrapoBt. This is the term appli^ 1 to the Swiss system of 
 posting , which as already observed is managed by government. 
 The charge for each horse is 5 fr. per stage of three leagues 
 ({) M.): that for the carriage varies f2 — 4 fr.); the driver's fee 
 is left to the discretion of the traveller. A conveyance of this 
 kind may be ordered at any post-office. 
 
 The official time-tables of Biirkli . published at Ziiricli are 
 recommended for reference. The local notices of the hours of 
 departure and arrival should also be consulted at the post-sta- 
 tions themselves. 
 
 Seats for the principal routes may be secured several days 
 in advance by personal application, by letter, or even by tele- 
 graph, addressed to the post-office at the starting place. Where 
 the communication is partly by steamer (e. g. the St. Gotthard. 
 Briinig, Coire-Milan routes, etc.) tickets may be obtained on 
 board without additional charge. 
 
 Luggage, which ought to be carefully and distinctly addres- 
 sed, should if possible be booked half-an-hour or an hour before 
 the time of starting. 
 
 The High-Roads in Switzerland are measured by Kilometres. 
 or by eitjhths of leagues ( '/y Stunden . each about 3 furlongs ). 
 1 kilometre = 1093.6.^81 Engl. yds., or about 5/^ Engl. M. 
 The distances are given in tlie Handbook in English miles, except 
 in mountain expeditions . where hours are the usual and more 
 convenient standard of distance. 
 
 Letters (prepaid) : to any part of Switzerland ( 10 grammes 
 in weight, about 1/3 oz.j 10 c, if within a radius of 6 M. 5 c. 
 only; Germany and Austria (If) grammes, about ^o oz.) '25 c. : 
 France, Belgium and Italy (10 gr.) 30 c. ; Netherlands and 
 Great Britain (15 gr.) 30 r. ; Russia (15gr.) 50 c. : N. America 
 (15 or.) SO r. 
 
 Post Office Orders, issued within the limits of Switzerland 
 only, must not exceed 500 fr. for the larger. '200 fr. for the 
 smaller towns. Charge 20 c. for an order not exceeding 100 fr.. 
 10 c. more for each additional 100 fr. — With regard to money- 
 orders to foreign countries, a convenience of which the traveller 
 will rarely have occasion to avail himself, information may be 
 obtained at all the principal offices. 
 
 Telegraph - Communication exteiuls all over Switzerland. 
 Zofingen (p. 13) being the central office. The tariff is as follows: 
 For 20 words yi^ fr.. for every 10 words more 25 c.. within the 
 limits of Switzerland. 
 
 By the law which regulates the telegraphic service it is en- 
 acted that "dispatches may be delivered at any post-office . and 
 if the office is not also a telegraphic office, the dispatch shall
 
 XXX X. RAILWAYS. 
 
 be transmitted without delay to the nearest. Dispatches are 
 also received at all the railway-stations . for which an additional 
 charge of oO <■. is made. 
 
 X. Railways. 
 
 The Carriages on the German Swiss lines (like those of 
 Wiirtemberg , Austria . and Lombardy) are constructed on the 
 American principle, generally accommodating 72 passengers, and 
 furnished at each end with iron steps of easy act-ess . protected 
 by a roof. Throughout each carriage, and indeed the entire train, 
 a passage runs, on either side of which the seats are disposed. 
 This arrangement enables the traveller to shift his position at 
 pleasure provided the carriage be not unusually crowded . and 
 facilitates a survey of the district traversed. 
 
 The carriages on most of the French S }r i s s railways are 
 of the ordinary construction . and inferior in comfort to those 
 of the other lines. In French Switzerland the tifkets of the 
 passengers are inspected as they leave the waiting-room . and 
 given up at the ^Sortie' on their arrival. 
 
 Luggage. Each passenger is allowed 20 lbs. . but if this 
 weight be exceeded. V/2 cwt. is charged for. Travellers provided 
 with direct tickets from the German to the Swiss railways , or 
 vice versa . are recommended to assure themselves of the safety 
 of their luggage at the frontier (Bale. Friedrichshafen. Lindau. 
 Rorschach, Romanshornl. 
 
 Return-tickets are issued on most of the Swiss lines at re- 
 duced rates , some of them available for several days (Sunday- 
 tickets). Excursion-tickets at very moderate rates are also issued 
 by some of the compaines for certain routes or circuits , in- 
 formatioJi concerning which will be found in the time-tables. 
 These, however, cannot be recommended to the ordinary traveller, 
 as they tend greatly to hamper his movements and to deprive 
 him of the independence essential to enjoyment. 
 
 XI. History. 
 
 The limits oi tiiis work necessarily preclude in(»re than a i)riet histo- 
 rical .sketch of the interesting country ;md people the traveller is now visit- 
 ing — a country, the beautiful and romantic scenery of which can hardly 
 be surpassed in any quarter of the globe — a people celebrated above all 
 othei-s for the spirit of freedom nud independiMicr l»y which they are ac- 
 tuated. It is liardly nece.ssary to carry the reader back to the period of 
 the subjugation of Helvetia (the ancient Switzerland) by the Roman legions ■■, 
 traces of that subjugation still e.vist in the Romanic language common to 
 this day in a part' of Switzerland. Under the Roman sway Helvetia enjoyed 
 a nourishing trade, which covered the land with cities and villages, and 
 Christianity was introduced with its attendant blessing of civilization. 
 
 A great irruption of barbarians was however destined to sweep through 
 the peaceful valleys of the .Vlps, before which Roman civilization fled, 
 and Burgundians, Alemanni, Ostrogoths, and Huns settled themselves 
 in different part.s of the country. The .Vlemauni and Burgundians
 
 XI. HISTORY. XXXI 
 
 introduced their law.s and custom.s, and the greater part of the country 
 \vas occupied by the I'ormer tribe. To each soldier wa.s aUotted a farm : 
 a judge or centgrave (Graf) was placed over a hundred of these farms : 
 several of these hundreds or cents constituted a Gau (whence Thurgau, 
 .\argau, etc.), and the centgraves were under a duke. 
 
 In process of time tlie entire country fell under the sway of the French 
 or Prankish empire, but the old constitution was retained. Christianity, 
 which for a while had succumbed before the inroads of the barbaric horde's, 
 once more exercised its mild and benignant influence, and the devastated 
 tields again waved with crops of grain. On the partition of the Frankish 
 empire amongst the Merovingians, Switzerland was divided between two 
 sovereigns, one ruling over Alemannian, the other over Burgundian Switzer- 
 land. Under Pepin the whole country was re-united, and during the energe- 
 tic reign of Charlemagne the arts and sciences were cultivated and flourished. 
 Under his feeble successors the centgraves or counts became more and 
 more independent of royal authority, and eventually made their 'Gaus' 
 hereditary; one of tliem, Rudolph, at the cbjsc f)f the 9th century, estab- 
 lished the new kingdom of Burgundy, whilst the counts in other parts of 
 •Switzerland conducted themselves like princes, and exacted vassalage from 
 the people in their respective jurisdictions, whence arose a multitude of 
 independent and complicated governments, the chiefs of which were per- 
 petually at warfare with one another. 
 
 The most powerful probably amongst these feudal families was that ol 
 Hapsburg, and many inferior lords sought its protection. At the close of 
 the 13th century. Rudolph of Hapsburg, as king and emperor of Germany, 
 held a court in Helvetia: his rule was wise and salutary. Xot so that of 
 his sons Rudolph and Albert, who encroached upon the rights of the Swiss 
 people. The latter, who succeeded to the imperial power in 1298, bv the ty- 
 ranny and obstinacy of his rule, gave rise to the first confederacy of tlu: 
 Swiss cant<ms. That interesting epoch, the meeting of the .33 brave "patriots 
 on the Riitli, a solitary spot on the Lake of Lucerne, on tlic night of No- 
 vember 7th, 1307, is known to every one who has a moderate acquaintance 
 with general history (see p. 72). The three Waldstadte, or forest-states, 
 as the cantons of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden were termed, rose, deposed 
 the obnoxious governors whose rule had been marked by the most odious 
 tyranny and oppression, and destroyed the strongholds which so long had 
 overawed the country. Henry VII., who succeeded Albert, confirmed the 
 rights of the forest-cantons, but the warlike spirit of the people had been 
 too much fostered : civil wars were kindled between neighbouring cantons, 
 whilst the house of .Vustria obstinately endeavoiired to recover its lost 
 sway, and eventually the Emperor Frederick HI. called to his assistance 
 a French army, for tlie protection of his family estates and rights. In 
 1444 another Thermopylee was fought at the village of St. .Tacob near Bale. 
 where 1600 Swiss withstood 20,000 French under the Dauphin Louis. The 
 Swiss next gave provocation to Charles the Bold, the powerful duke of 
 Burgundy, who invaded their country, but was signallv defeated in the 
 memorable battles of Grandson (see p. 174), Morat (p. '164), and Nancy 
 (1476—77). From this period the confederated cantons were acknowledged 
 by foreign countries as the Swiss League. In 1481 Freiburg and Soleure 
 were united to them. 
 
 In 1499 the Swabian war broke out, in which Switzerland had gained 
 six important victories, when peace was concluded bv the treaty of Bale. 
 Bale, SchafVhausen, and Appenzcll were next admitted into the coiifederacv. 
 In 1512 the Swiss obtained from Milan the Italian bailiwicks which now 
 form the canton of Ticiuo. 
 
 About this period the grand work of the Reformation began in Switzer- 
 land. Zwingli (see p. 33) here opposed indulgences at the same time as 
 Luther in Saxony, but went further in the work, particularly in simplifying 
 the mode of worship, explaining the doctrine of the Eucharist, etc. In 1524 
 he had the gratification of seeing his doctrines adopted by the great Coun- 
 cil of Ziirich, and his influence among the Swiss Protestants continued 
 unimpaired for the remainder of his life. The great religious struggle of 
 the Reformation, glorious and important as it undoubtedlv was in its ulti-
 
 XXXll XI. HISTORY. 
 
 mate results, sowed bitter jealousies between the reformed and Rom. fa- 
 tholic cantons, from which disastrous consequences ensued : but a better 
 and gentler spirit at length prevailed, and the first religious peace was 
 concluded in 1529. 
 
 Singular to relate, during the Thirty Years' War the Confederacy main- 
 tained a strict neutrality, and by the Peace of Westphalia in 1648 the complete 
 separation of Switzerland from the German Empire was solemnly acknow- 
 ledged. During the 18th century, and until its close, the Swiss were 
 rarely implicated in foreign politics, but were not free from internal dis- 
 sensions : this respite from foreign hostilities was, however, highly fa- 
 vourable to the commerce, agriculture, and literature of the country." In 
 every department of science, both at home and abroad, the Swiss of the 
 18th century acquired a very high reputation, as the names of Haller, Rous- 
 seati, Lavater, Bodmer, Gessner, Fiissli, John v. Miiller, Pestalozzi, and 
 many others amply testify. 
 
 in 1790 new troubles arose : although the Swiss had at first maintained 
 a rigid neutrality in the wars of the French Revolution, French power and 
 intrigue gradually deprived them of their former constitution, and at length 
 converted the Swiss' Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic, under an exe- 
 cutive directory of five persons. The oppressive and arbitrary conduct of 
 the French soon made the new form of government contemptible. Aloys 
 Reding, a man of enterprising spirit, and a member of a family already 
 distinguished in the annals of Switzerland, formed a plan for overthrowing 
 the new constitution, but the sole and unhappy result of these endeavours 
 was a civil war. Ultimately Napoletm, in 1803, restored the cantonal sys- 
 tem. At this period the cantons were 19 in number, viz: Schwyz, Uri, 
 Unterwalden, Bern. Ziirich, Lucerne, G];irus, Zug, Appenzell, Schaflfhausen, 
 Freiburg, Soleure, Bale, Grisons, Vaud. Ticino, St. Gall, Thurgau, and 
 Aargau. Neuchatel, which had been ceded to Napoleon by Prussia, was 
 granted by him to General Berthier as a sovereign principality. In 1814 
 the relations of Neuchatel to Prussia were restored, and together with 
 Geneva and the Yalais, it became incorporated in the confederacy of the 
 Swiss cantons, raising their number to 22. 
 
 In 1830 considerable disturl>ances took place in the confederacy : the 
 advance of liberal principles had been rapid, a universal desire for reiform 
 pervaded the cantons, and general risings took place in various parts of 
 the country. In the democratic cantons the desired reforms were so wisely 
 and promptly granted, that little jeopardy was occasioned to the public 
 peace ^ in the aristocratic cantons the opposition was stronger, and the 
 proposed reforms were eftected with greater difficulty, but eventually the 
 following concessions were made l)y the confederacy generally to the 
 popular demands: the extension of the right of election, the liberty of the 
 press, the abolition of privileges, the inviolability of the person, with 
 other liberal institutions. The civil dissensions, however, wliich these 
 events gave rise to, were the forerunners of the war (Nov. 1847) of the 
 Sonderbund (Separate League), happily of brief duration : in 1848 a new 
 federal constitution was inaugurated, highly conducive to the general 
 prosperity and welfare of the country. Xo event of consequence has since 
 occurred to disturb the public tranquillity, which it is earnestly hoped 
 may long continue. 
 
 XII. Constitution and Statistics. 
 
 The Federal Constitution of Sept. 12th. 1848. contains among otliers 
 the following articles : 3. The cantons are sovereign, in as far as their 
 sovereignty is not limited by the Federal Constitution. 13. The Confede- 
 racy is not entitled to maintain a standing army. Without the consent of 
 the Confederacy no canton is permitted to maintain more than 300 regular 
 troops. 23. Custom's dues are levied by the Confederacy alone. 33. The 
 postal system is conducted by the Confederacy. 39. The e.xpenditure of 
 the Confederacy is defrayed : "(a) by the interest of the Federal war-fund; 
 (b) by the duties levied "at the frontiers; (c) by the revenue derived from 
 the postal system : (d) by the produce of the gunpowder commission ;
 
 XII. coN^rnurioN and statistics. 
 
 xxxui 
 
 . •) by the produce of taxfs levied by consent of the Federal Assembly. 
 i1. Ever)- Swiss of r*hristian confession is at liberty to setth- where he 
 nieases. 43. Foreigners cannot become naturalised without first having 
 icsi^ned their original nationality. 44. All rcliiiious sects are tolerated. 
 \'). "The freedom of the press is granted. 57. Foreigners whose presence 
 i-< regarded as prejudicial to the interests of the Confederacy may be 
 ejected. 58. The order of the Jesuits is rigorously e.xcluded from every 
 part of Switzerland. 
 
 The following articles concern the 'Federal Authorities' : GO. The 
 »upreme power is vested in the Federal Assemblv , consisting of the 
 National Council and the Council of the States. 61. The National 
 Council is composed of deputies , one being selected from each 20,000 
 of the entire population , and one at least from each canton. l>3. Every 
 Swiss who has attained the age of 20 years is entitled to a vote. W. Any 
 Swiss layman entitled to vote may be elected. 66. The National Council 
 is electe'd for 5 years. 69. The Council of the States consists of 44 
 fijputies from the cantons, 2 from each canton. S^i. The Fedtral Council, 
 the highest executive and administrative authority, consists of 7 members, 
 "^i. The members are elected by the Federal Assembly for 3 years. 91. 
 The several member.^ of the Federal Council superintend the administration 
 I if the different departments (military, interior, finance, commerce, etc.). 
 *4. The Federal Tribunal (consisting of 11 members) decides all legal 
 juestions which concern the Confederacy. lOi. The court of assizes, with 
 ;♦ jury, decides cases of breach of discipline on the part of officials, high 
 Ji-eason and insubordination, political offences, etc. 
 
 Area and Population 
 
 cording to the decennial census of Dec. Is 
 
 1870. 
 
 
 , Sq. 
 Leagues 
 
 C 
 
 Confess 
 
 on 
 
 1 Pop. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Totals. 
 
 ^ :„ 
 
 C a n t n s. 
 
 Rom.Cath. 
 
 Prot. 
 
 Jews. 
 
 Sect. 
 
 p. sq. 
 league 
 
 t) Zurich . . 
 
 ■ 74,. 
 
 17,942 
 
 26.3,730 
 
 m 
 
 2,610' 281,786; 3,797 
 
 •T) Bern . . . 
 
 , 294 
 
 66,022 
 
 436,291 
 
 1403 
 
 2,739i 506,455; 1,723 
 
 '.}) Lucerne . 
 
 1 W 
 
 128,338 
 
 3,8'23 
 
 98 
 
 79 132,338, 1,450 
 
 4) Uri . . . 
 
 i 47 
 
 16,018 
 
 80 
 
 8 
 
 1 16,107; 343 
 
 5) Schwifz . . 
 
 : 40 
 
 47,0i7 
 
 647 
 
 7 
 
 4 47,705, 1,192 
 
 6) Untenrald . 
 
 : 33,5 
 
 •25,687 
 
 424 
 
 5 
 
 - : 26,116 778 
 
 7) Glarus . . 
 
 ■ 29,s 
 
 6,888 
 
 28,239 
 
 17 
 
 7; 35,151; 1,179 
 
 8) Zug . . . 
 
 10,2 
 
 878 
 
 20,082 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 20,993, 2,058 
 
 9) Fribourg 
 
 ; 71,1 
 
 93.951 
 
 16,819 
 
 47 
 
 15 
 
 110,832 1,551 
 
 10) Soleure . . 
 
 ai,5 
 
 62;072 
 
 12,448 
 
 92 
 
 101 
 
 74,713 ^2,166 
 
 11) Bdle-ville . 
 
 1,. 
 
 12,301 
 
 34.455 
 
 516 
 
 488 
 
 47,760, '27,500 
 
 Bdle-camp . 
 
 18,5 
 
 10,245 
 
 43.523 
 
 131 
 
 228 
 
 54,f27 2,926 
 
 12) Schaffhausen 
 
 : 12,9 
 
 3,051 
 
 ai,466 
 
 '24 
 
 180 
 
 37,721 2,9*24 
 
 13) Appenzell . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 (Rhodes ext.) 
 
 10,: 
 
 2,358 
 
 46,175 
 
 22 
 
 171 
 
 48.726 4,554 
 
 (Rhodes int.) 
 
 7,3 
 
 11,7'20 
 
 188 
 
 
 1 
 
 11,909 1,631 
 
 14) St. Gall . 
 
 : 87,: 
 
 116430 
 
 74,503 
 
 192 
 
 190 
 
 191,015 2,178 
 
 lij) Orisons . . 
 
 ' 30i,, 
 
 39,889 
 
 5l,&il 
 
 17 
 
 35 
 
 91,782! 302 
 
 16) Aargau . . 
 
 1 60,4 
 
 89,180 
 
 107,703 
 
 1511 
 
 449 
 
 198,873' 3,29-2 
 
 17) Thnrcjau 
 
 ; 42,8 
 
 23,444 
 
 69,241 
 
 81 
 
 531 
 
 93,3a). '2,180 
 
 18) Ticiiio . . 
 
 121,6 
 
 119,350 
 
 194 
 
 36 
 
 40 119,6-20 a83 
 
 19) Vaud . . 
 
 138,7 
 
 17,785 
 
 211,493 
 
 610 
 
 1,812 231.7a) 1.670 
 
 JO) Valais . . 
 
 1 2-26,5 
 
 95,963 
 
 900 
 
 4 
 
 •20 96.887 436 
 
 21) yeuchdtel . 
 
 i 3i,: 
 
 ll,3i5 
 
 ai,334 
 
 674 
 
 931; dl:2i^4 2.S04 
 
 2-2) Geneva . . 
 
 : i-2,\, 
 
 47,857 
 
 43,606 
 
 %1 
 
 77 1 ! 93.195 7,639 
 
 Total . . . 
 
 , 1769,3 
 
 l,08i,6d5 
 
 1,-566,001 
 
 7009 
 
 ll,4'20,2,t;69,W5| 1,508 
 
 Census of 1860 
 
 — 
 
 1,0-23,430 
 
 1,476,982 
 
 4216 
 
 5,86612.507,170, 1,432 
 
 Increase ■ . \\ — | 
 B.«DEKER, Switzerland. 
 
 61, -2351 89,019 
 5t.h Edition. 
 
 -2793 5..5.5i 161.9-iJ
 
 XXXIV Xli. CONSTITUTION AND STATISTICS. 
 
 Switzerland has therefore a population of 165 per Eng. sq. M. (Alpine 
 Switzerland 52 , the remainder about 244). Geneva is the most populous 
 canton (847 per sq. M.) . the Orisons the least (33 per sq. 31.). Of every 
 ICKX) souls 585 are Prot. . 411 Rom. Cath. , 2 Sect. . 2 Jews; of these 702 
 speak German. 226 French. 55 Italian, and ITEomansch. Of the 556.000 house- 
 holds of Switzerland 465.(X)0 possess landed property ; of the entire popula- 
 tion of 2.669.095 about 500.0CXJ only have no landed possession. In Switzer- 
 land 1 person out of 20 lives by aims, in England 1 out of 8, in France and 
 Holland 1 out of 9. Of 100 sq. leagues of land 20 are pasture . 17 forest. 
 11 arable, 20 meadow. 1 vineyards, and 31 uncultivated or occupied by 
 water, roads, dwellings, etc. 
 
 Education. The German part of Switzerland possesses three Univer- 
 .'ities, those oi Bale, Bern, and Zurich, with 115 professors. 30 private tutors, 
 and 500 students. French Switzerland possesses three Academies, those of 
 Geneva . Lausanne, and Neuchatel. with faculties of theology . philosophy, 
 and jurisprudence. 45 professors, and 370 students. About 70 of the latter 
 at Geneva are foreigners . chietly French Protestants. The Federal Poly- 
 technic at Zurich, founded in 1855. also deserves mention: it possesses a 
 philosophical faculty and 46 teachers, some of them professors at the uni- 
 versity, and is much frequented by foreign as well as native students. 
 
 The Army consists of the Buncles-Auszug (Elite Fedtrale) and the Re- 
 serve, consisting of the able-bodied male population between the ages of 
 20 and 34: and the Landicehr, comjwsed of men. not included in the above 
 classes, up to their 44th year. To the two first classes belong 105,463 in- 
 fantry soldiers. 9227 riflemen. 3006 cavalry, 10.656 artillery. 12 park-com- 
 panies with 2870 men , 2332 sappers and miners . etc. . forming a total of 
 133,949. The number of the Landwehr is computed at 67.000. — The 
 -Cadets" Institute'^ provides an admirable preparatory training for military 
 service in Switzerland. This is an arrangement "by which the pupils 
 ('cadets") of all the principal schools receive instruction in military tactics, 
 being provided by government with muskets and cannons (2 and 4 pounders) 
 for the purpose. On these occasions they wear a uniform : and their 
 annual reviews . when the cadets of several cantons frequently assemble. 
 are a source of boundless delight to these embryo warriors. 
 
 Industry, .\ccording to the most recent statistics of Switzerland, 
 1.900.000 souls are supported bv agriculture. The number of cattle (oxen, 
 sheep, and eoats) amounts to 2.200.000. valued at 6.400.000 ;. The annual 
 export of cattle is 85.000 (50.000 oxen) ; import 194.000 (67.000 oxen\ 
 17.(X)0 tons of cheese are annually manufactured, of which 7000 tons are 
 exported. — The manufactories emplov 180,000 persons . the handicrafts 
 i5(J.Ci00. In the canton of Bale 1,400,0000 pounds" worth of silk ribbon is 
 annually manufactured by 6000. in the canton of Ziirich about 1.600.0CO 
 pounds'' worth of French "silks by 12.000 operatives. The manufacture of 
 watches and jewellery in the cantons of Xeuchatel. Geneva. Vaud, Bern, 
 and Soleure occupies 36.000 workmen . and represents an annual sum of 
 1.8t;!0.CKX) Z. : 500.000 watches are manufactured per annum. 3 :ths of the 
 number being of gold, ■» :ths of silver. St. Gall and Appenzell produce 
 annually about 4OJ.000 pounds' worth of embroidery, which occupies .6000 
 hands. The printing and dyeing factories of Glarus manufacture goods to 
 the value of 6lO,000 I. per annum. The manufacture of cotton goods employs 
 upwards of 1 million spindles. 4000 looms, and 20.0CK) persons : hand-looms 
 38.000 persons : straw-plaiting (Aargau . Lucerne . Bale) 30.000 : machine- 
 buildins (principallv at Ziirich) 6000. The total imports amount to 
 12.800.000 ?., the ex"ports to 11,600.000 I. annually. The industrial prospe- 
 rity of Switzerland is mainly attributable to the moderation of the import- 
 duties, which enables its products to compete successfully with those of 
 every European mart. The highest import-duty levied (on articles of 
 luxury) amounts to 12 .«. per cw^t.
 
 XXXV 
 
 XIII. Geology of the Alps, f 
 
 Alps is the term applied to the vast mountain ranges which extend 
 from Nice on the Mediterranean Sea towards the X.E. through southern 
 France. Switzerland, the Tyrol, and Styria, to the Leitha on the Hunga- 
 rian frontier. Of these the highest are tlie Central Alps, situated in Savoy 
 and Switzerland. They are subdivided into the Pennine Aljis (p. 239) e.\- 
 tending from the Col de Bonhomme (p. 231) to Monte Rosa (p. 263), and 
 including Mont Blanc (p. 222) ; the Lepontine or Siciss Alps, extending from 
 St. Gotthard (p. 80) to the Vogelberg (p. 363); and the Rhaetian Alps, ex- 
 tending from the sources of the Hinter-Rhein (p. 362) over the Bernina 
 (p. 331) to the Ortler in the Tyrol (p. 345). The central point of these 
 ranges is the Furca and St. Gotthard group, from which the Alps of the 
 Vaiais and Grisons branch in a southerly, and the Bernese and Rltenish Alps 
 in a northerly direction. 
 
 According' to their elevation the Alps are usually divided into the 
 Higher Alps, or those portions above the snow-line (8000' on the X. , and 
 830O' on the S. side) : the Middle Alps , or those portions between the 
 region of perpetual snow and the boundary of the growth of trees (45(X)') : 
 and the Lower Alps, or those between 45U0' and 2000' above the level of 
 the .sea. 
 
 In Switzerland three districts may be distinguished, diftering essen- 
 tially in their geological formation. A line drawn from Schafhausen through 
 Aar'au and yeucfidtel to the base of Mont Dole, X. of Geneva, separates 
 two of these districts from each other, the Jura Range from the Siciss 
 Hill Count rn. The latter extends to the base of the Alps, which con- 
 stitute the third and most important of these districts. 
 
 The f'jrmation of the Jura Range consists essentially of strata 
 remarkable for their repleteness witli organic remains , and also 
 known as the 'Jura formation' in other parts of central Europe. The 
 subdivisions of this formation, its stratification, and the remains, 
 principalh- of shell-fish , which characterise the ditVerent strata , are well 
 known. The position of the strata resembles the surface of a troubled sea, 
 or numerous layers of cloth , placed one upon another and subjected to 
 lateral pressure'. On the borders of the Black Forest^ and in the 
 g!'ef.ter of these layers , which extend southwards beyond Bale , the lower 
 strata of the Tri'assic Sijsteni, the Kevper Marls, Muschelkalk, and 
 Bunisandsiein, are the most prominent, and all organic remains which they 
 contain difler from those of the Jura group. From the lake of Bienne, in 
 a southwesterly direction, more recent strata occur, belonging to the creta- 
 ceous system, and known as Xeocomian Deposits. 
 
 At the base of the Jura these strata are covered by a far more recent 
 formation, which comprehends the entire district of the Swiss Hill Country, 
 in its turn bounded by the lower Alps , of which the Rigi is the most 
 celebrated from the magnificence of its view. This formation belongs to 
 the section of the Tertiary System known as Meiocene, the vast beds 
 of conglomerate containedin "which are called Xa gel flue (,p. 54). It is. 
 geologically, a very recent formation, and proves what vast transforma- 
 tions the earth's surface has undergone at a comparatively recent date. 
 The larger towns of Switzerland are situated in this district : .S7. Gall. 
 Zurich, Lucerne, Soleure, Bern, Freiburg, Lausanne, and Geneva, as well as 
 the two large basins of the lakes of Geneva and Constance. 
 
 The strata of the Meiocene contain in two sections remains of fresh- 
 water animals and plants (found in abundance at the quarries of Oehningen), 
 
 t The most recent geological rc-ei'.rciies m Switzerland and spociaJ 
 maps of the Alps and Jura are to be found in the 'Deitrdge :iir Geologic 
 d^- Sc'iicei:' (published by Dalp of Bein at the expense of government).
 
 XXXVI Xlll. GKOLOGY nv THK ALPS. 
 
 and in an intermediate section remain* ol' marine animals. The Nagil- 
 flue consists essentially of boulders and rounded stones belonging to 
 formations entirely foreign to the Alps of the pre,«ent day. In order to 
 account for this, it is conjectured that at the period of the formation ot 
 this rock a chain of lower hills, consisting of various species of granites, 
 porphyries , quarzites , etc. , formed the spurs of the higher Alps. The 
 Nagelflue mountains arc formed by the deposits of those ancient streams 
 which unquestionably descended from the region of the Alps :, and their 
 occurrence in a number of different districts indicates the various directions 
 in which these rivers must have llowed. 
 
 The position of the strata deviates little from their original , nearly 
 horizontal direction, and takes the form of a basin between the .4lp.s and 
 the Jura range, the shores of the former Meiocene sea. At the distance, 
 however, of about 7 )I. from the base of the Alps . the inclination of the 
 strata alters, and from this point onwards, turned towards the S.E. in the 
 direction of the Alps, becomes more and more abrupt. From Rorschach as far 
 as the Lake of Thun two undulating folds oi the strata, protruding over 
 each other chiefly from S. to X., are traceable in this sub-alpine 3feiocene 
 formation. This position can only have been occasioned by some vast 
 convulsions in the solid criLst of tlie earth after the first deposit and con- 
 solidation of the strata, and may be regarded as a prelude to the compli- 
 cated rock-formation of the Alps themselves. Almost the entire hilly 
 country, and even the lower slopes of the Jura are covered with in- 
 numerable Erratic Blocks and glacier detritus. The nature of the rock 
 and the origin of the blocks, as well as their disposition in moraines, 
 render it probable that during the ice-period the glaciers of the Rhone. 
 Aar, Reuss , Limmat, and Rhine covered the entire district. To these 
 formations, moreover, the .soil is indebted for its remarkable fertility. 
 
 The N. boundary of the Swiss Alps extends from the 1. bank of the 
 Rhine, a short distance below thi^ influx of the III (p. 350), in a zigzag line 
 S.W.. to Vei'ay on the Lake of Geneva. The S. extremity of this mighty 
 range is in the vicinity of the Lake of Lugano, while the E. portion extends 
 into Piedmont and the Austrian states. 
 
 On the Northern Side of the Alps a belt . varying in diameter . com- 
 posed of fossil ifer< HIS f<jrraations, is distinguishalile from the main portion 
 of the rocks. These format inns were furmerly known by the general 
 denomination of Alpe iik alk ste I a (Alpine Limestone), but have in more 
 recent times been ascertained to consist of three distinct groups, belonging 
 to ihe^ Eocene . the C ft a Ik For mat ion . andthey?//-a Formation.. 
 Towards the E. frontier of Switzerland , in the cantons of .S7. Gall and 
 Glarui>, portions of this belt of a still more remote date occur, find are 
 considered to belong to the Triassic System. 
 
 The rocks of these formations on the outskirts of the Alps bear so little 
 similarity to others of the same formations on the X. and W. side of this 
 great range in Germany and France, that is has been a matter of the ut- 
 most difficulty to arrive at a satisfactory conclusion on the subject. The 
 limestones, which occur in the former in enormous masses, are of a dark- 
 grey, or nearly black colour, of a close texture, slightly crystalline, veined 
 with a network of calcareous spar, and bearing a close resemblance to the 
 limestones which usually occur in older formations. Hence arose diffi- 
 culties of classification, which were not solved until attention was drawn 
 to the organic remains found in this northern belt of the Alps. These 
 form the sole clue to the labyrinth of Alpine formations, and prove a surer 
 and more trustworthy criterion, in proportion as a minuter acquaintance 
 is made with the organic remains in the adjacent districts. 
 
 Thus the same organic remains have been found here as those which 
 occur in the Eocene .'Strata near Paiis, and it has been satisfactorily proved 
 that these recent formation^ have participated in the same irregularitie.s 
 which have taken place in the Alpine chain. A similar relation ha.s been 
 observed between the chalk formations and the Jura Group on the northern 
 boundary of the Alps. A variation in the character of the organic remains
 
 XIIT. GEOLOGY (►F THE ALPS. XXXVII 
 
 tends to prove that the Jura «tr;ita niu.«t have been deposited in the depths 
 of the ocean, while those to the N. of the Swiss hill-country were probably 
 formed on the beach or shallower portions of the sea. 
 
 The relations between these three formations, the Eocene^ the Chalky 
 and the Jura groups, which are invariably found in juxtaposition, are of 
 an extremely complicated nature. Th<- strata are ujiheaved in the most 
 contorted forms , and present the appearance of having been folded to- 
 gether, so that among the higher and more inacci'ssible mountains it has 
 been a task of the utmost difficulty to ascertain the extent of these for- 
 mations. Difficult as it may be to 'account for some of these phenomena, 
 it has , at least , been clearly proved by the indefatigable researches of 
 eminent Swiss geologists , that these .•strata have been upheaved from the 
 depths of the ocean in which they were deposited, pressed together, and 
 forced aside (i. e. to the N.) by the principal formations of the Alpine 
 chain. This accounts for the fact that the lowest strata are frequently 
 found on the surface. 
 
 The Central Alpine Zone consists of rocks of an entirely ditTerent 
 character. The principal raass<s are generally composed of gneiss, which 
 towards the centime changes to granite and protogine. Adjacent to the 
 gneiss occurs the mica-schist and talcose schist, and in the gneiss itself 
 may be distinguished the mica-gneiss and the talcose. Although these are 
 precisely the same rocks which everywhere constitute the earth's crust, 
 geologists have not yet succeeded in reducing the phenomena of the con- 
 struction of the Alps to fixed laws, — a fact which cannot excite surprise, 
 when the same difficulties have been experienced in the case of far less 
 complicated foi-mations. 
 
 Studer. the eminent Swiss geologist, himself confesses that even in the 
 case of the best-known central masses of gneiss , those of Mont Blanc, the 
 Finsteraarhoin, and the St. Gottbard, far too little has been ascertained 
 to admit of their limits being laid down with any certainty. 
 
 Intermingled with the central masses of gneiss, Schists also occur 
 to a great extent , sometimes in the form of Hornblende and Hornblende 
 Schist approaching the already mentioned crystalline schists of the central 
 masses, sometimes as green-schist, analogous to serpentine, easily recogni- 
 sable as a sedimentary formation. These also contain Anthracite and n\\- 
 merous impressions of plants, and may undoubtedly be considered to belong 
 to the Coal Formation, — a fact of the utmost importance in the study of 
 the Alpine structure. 
 
 Older sedimentary deposits are not known with certainty to occur in 
 the Swiss Alps , but are found in the eastern continuation of the Alpine 
 chain. Of the strata, usually situated between the coal-formation and the 
 Jura-group, some indeed occur in the Swiss Alps, as sandstones, conglo- 
 merates C Verracano, ^Rauchicacke\ Dolomite, Gijfsvm, etc.) ; but the order 
 of these is so far from persistent, that, although well known in the E. 
 prolongation of the mountain chain, and in the adjacent S. zone, and classed 
 under the Triassic System, no satisfactory account can be given. 
 
 In the heart of Switzerland, and on the e.Ktrcnie northern verge of the 
 central zone, rises the Central Mass of the Finateraarhorn from the Lotschen- 
 thal to the Tijdi. In the centre of this range , where it is intersected by 
 the routes of the Grimsel and the St. Gottbard, the Granite attains its 
 most impoitant development, and at the same time the Anticlinal 
 Axis, or contorted (-fan-shaped) structure of the gneiss is most strongly 
 marked. Here too, on the N. side, the most striking irregularity is observed 
 in the contact of the gneiss and its associated quartz-rock with the ad- 
 joining Jura-limestone. In the dias^onal line from Laiiterbrunnen and 
 Grindelwald to Viesch tho fan-shape is fully developed, on the N. side the 
 strata decline towards the S., in the r(V*TA«^r/<or»<rr they are vertical, whilst 
 on the route from the Fcjgischhorn (p. 141) to Viesrh they assume a "N. di- 
 rection : the same is the case in a section of the Grimsel (p. 136). .\t the 
 extremities of the gneiss, on the other hand, a unif.nm and abrupt descent 
 towards the S. has been observed.
 
 XXXVIII XIII. GEOLOGY OF THE ALPS. 
 
 The contact of the crystalline and sedimentary formations is most 
 strikingly exhibited on the N. verge of this group, in the profound valleys 
 and fissures rent through the entire mass by mighty convulsions. The 
 Gasternthal (p. 252) is a locality admirably adapted for arriving at a more 
 accurate acquaintance with these phenomena. The limestone and slate- 
 strata of the precipices of the Altels and Doldenhorn (p. 146) are extremely 
 contorted in their position ; the base is Granite. 
 
 The summit of the Jungfrau (p. 115) consists of gneiss-granite, into 
 which two masses of Jura-limestone have inserted themselves horizontally, 
 their extremities being , as it were , folded back. This pseudo-interstrati- 
 fication must have taken place whilst the disrupting granite was in a liquid 
 state. The Eiger and Monch (p. 116), the Mettenherg (p. 118), the Wetterhorn 
 (p. 122), and above all , the upper portion of the Urbachtlial (p. 132) and 
 the narrow ridge between the Tossenhorn and Gstellihorn display the sr^me 
 phenomena. Even the extremities of these inserted masses of limestone 
 contain organic remains of the Jura-formation. This affords a clue to the 
 structure of the Alps , but if it be considered as evidence that the epoch 
 of these convulsions is more recent than the Jura chalk and eocene periods, 
 the soundness of the proposition may be questioned. 
 
 Almost adjoining this Central Mass of the Finteraarhorn is that of the 
 St. Gotthard; of an intervening layer of slate and limestone, isolated 
 fragments or 'nests' of marble are now the sole indications. At the level 
 of the *S7. Gotthard Lakes, Granite occurs in the heart of this mass, at 
 the Genisboden Gneiss, above Ilospenthal Mi c a - tS la t e ; at Anderrnatt the 
 inclination is towards the S., at Airolo towards the X., the Fan-Htruc- 
 tvre being here distinctly exhibited, which extends E.as far as the gra- 
 nite can be traced. 
 
 In the beautiful intersection of the Lukmanier (p. 313), these pheno- 
 mena are repeated ; the S. portion of the fan becomes more expansive as 
 it extends towards the E. The surface, the situation of the watershed, and 
 the summits bear no relation to the axis of the fan : the present configu- 
 raticm of the mountain-chains and valleys cannot therefore have been oc 
 casioned by the upheaval of the granite. 
 
 The >St. Gotthard possesses a rich treasure in its Minerals (pp. 67, 
 79). Those in the external central masses display a great uniformity , the 
 same species occurring at Oisans , on Mont Blanc , on the Finsteraarhorn. 
 and on the St. Gotthard: such are the micaceous iron-ore, titanite , sphe/te, 
 fluor-spar, apatite, axinite, tourmaline, and the entire series of zeolites. 
 
 On the S. frontier of the Valais, from the Great St. Bernard over the 
 lofty summits of the Dent de Rang, Dent Blanche, and the Matterhom, i!s 
 far as tlie Weissliorn and Sijnplon, extends a range of crystalline felspar- 
 rock, which may not only be regarded as a central mass entitled to rank 
 with others , but even as" the true Central Chain of the Swiss and Italian 
 High Alps. The highest summits of the Alps, Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa, 
 though not within the limits of this mass , are in its immediate vicinity. 
 — It forms a transition from the fan-shaped mountains , situated nearer 
 the external (N.) zone of the Alps to the more horizontally extended gneiss 
 masses which form the internal zone. The fan shape is not easily dis- 
 tinguished, the symmetrical arrangement of the difl'erent species of rocks 
 is wanting : interstratitications of marble and limestone are more frequent, 
 serpentine and gabbro occur, and in the S. part even syenite. This Cen- 
 tral Mass is moreover especially remarkable for its intimate connection 
 with the associated Slates; the strata are in some places strangely inter- 
 mingled, whilst in others they gradually blend. Gneiss and G re p Slate 
 often occur as an inseparaVde mass, and give rise to one of the difficult 
 problems in geology. The basis, a variety of protogine, is termed Arkesine, 
 and seldom protrudes through the snows and glaciers of the highest moun- 
 tains. On the Matterhom and in its vicinity the level of the Green Slate, 
 which forms the summit of this gigantic mountain, is observed to vary as 
 much as 3000', the basis being Gneiss and Mica Slate, unbrokenly connected 
 with each other . as Giordano has demonstrated. Erosion followed by
 
 XIII. GEOLOGY OF THE ALPS. XXXIX 
 
 slips can therefore alone account for the phenomenon of this isolated, tooth- 
 like peak, which must be regarded as but a scanty remnant of a once far 
 more massive chain. 
 
 Towards the S.W. the masses of Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles Rouges 
 stand in the same relation to these central masses as those of the St. Gott- 
 hard and Finteraavliorn to the N.E. In these the Fan-Structure and 
 the Granitic Basis again become fully developed. The N.E. or nearly 
 N. extremities alone of these masses extend into Switzerland, to the S.W. 
 of the canton of Valais as far as Martigny. 
 
 In the Alps of Ticino Gneiss and Mica Sc h i s t predominate. The pecu- 
 liar character of the central mass hitherto followed in the species of rocks 
 and phenomena of structure almost entirely disappears. The dubious 
 Chlorite, Talcose, and Mica Schists no longer intermingle with 
 the rocks of the basis, but occupy a distinct position on the external zone. 
 The Gneiss predominates in the valleys and lower slopes, the Mica 
 Schist in the higher mountain regions, forming, for example, the ridge 
 and summits of the Campolongo Pass as far as the Pizzo Forno , an im- 
 portant point for trigonometrical measurements. 
 
 The structure is here extremely complicated , the disruption of the 
 rock horizontal, and th'; lamination of the mica-schist nearly vertical; the 
 formation of the l)a8i.s is much contorted and fractured. 
 
 In the upper Val Maggia a meridional direction of the mountain- 
 strata appears, completely at variance with their general direction of the 
 portions of the Alps ali-eady considered, and the principal direction of the 
 entire range. This variation is not confined to the littie-known mountains 
 of Ticino, but may be traced as far as the Upper Engadine, and pre- 
 dominates in the entire chain from the upper Val Maggia to the Maloja, 
 54 M. in length, and from Chiavenna to Vals, or about 32 M. in breadth. 
 This direction and the inclination of the strata towards the E. appear to 
 be indications of the ancient Amphitheatre of mountains which is con- 
 jectured to have enclosed Piedmont, previous to the changes in the earth's 
 crust which occasioned the present configuration of the Alps. 
 
 The gneiss which particularly characterises Ticino, first occurs in the 
 W. in the basis of Monte Eosa and the precipices and clitTs of the valley 
 of Macugnaga (p. 2GS), the grandest basin in the Alps. In the higher regions 
 it blends with the Mica- Schist, of which the four principal peaks of 
 Monte Rosa appear to be exclusively composed. The Main- Group rests 
 on a Meridional Chain, a huge wall of rock, which from Stalden 
 (p. 267j above Vispach to Ivrea at the S. l)ase of the range has a length 
 of 50 M. and throughout half of this extent an altitude of not less 
 than 10,000'. This forms a dyke or barrier between the Pennine and 
 Lepontine Alps. 
 
 In a similar manner the Adula Range, to the E. o* the Alps of 
 Ticino, though less elevated, forms the boundary between the Lepontine 
 and Rhaetian Alps. This broad mass is bleak and desolate , without 
 strongly defined summits, and covered with snow and glaciers which 
 rarely descend from the heights, the declivities being too precipitous, and 
 not penetrated by valleys. This is the cradle of the Rhine (p. 362). The 
 meridional valleys are longer and formed at a greater depth. 
 
 In the entire extent of the group, the strata decline towards the N.E. 
 and E. Gneiss therefore constitutes the basis in the Val Blegno. Indi- 
 cations of a barrier between the Adula Range and the Alps of Ticino are 
 observed in the limestone and marble masses c(nitained in the gneiss near 
 Rosso and Landarenra in the Val Calanca, which form the associating 
 links between the black slates of S. Bernardino and those of the Val 
 Blegno. 
 
 The Gneiss Mass which extends along the Spliigen Route from 
 Schams to the Ro,fla (p. 357) and Ftrrera (p. 356) attains, its most complete 
 development in the snowy and glacier -clad summits of the Sureta 
 Alps. The peculiirities of this Ce,itral Mass are particularly remarkable 
 in the vicinity of the Spliigen Pass. The Rojfla consists of "porphyric or
 
 XL XI n. GEOLOGY OF THE ALPS. 
 
 rani tic G net us. At the SplUgen Pass, as well as along the entire limit 
 of the crystalline schists, gneiss, mica schist, and calcareous Black and 
 Green Schists, intervening rocks occur, of which the predominating 
 are 'Ranch wacke\ perforated with the so-called 'chamois caverns'', 
 marhle, and slate, which in some cases tend to the mica-schist and gneiss, 
 in others to the clay-slate. Thus it is also at the Via Mala (p. 355), be- 
 tween the slate of which and that of Curver a series of dolomite gneiss and 
 limestone intervenes . the apparent continuation of the talcose, calcareous, 
 and felspar masses of the J^^ezza and Albine Alps. 
 
 The Crystalline Slates which extend from this point to the S. 
 adjacent zone, scarcely admit of a general classification. They are partly 
 dependent on masses of granite and syenite, and partly vary between 
 chlorite schist, hornblende, mica schist, and gneiss, without as^suming a 
 definite character. The position of the strata and lamination cannot be 
 reduced to primary laws. 
 
 The lofty range of the Bernina, on the frontier of the Gvisons and 
 Valtellina, rises as a Central Mass in the space between the Val 
 Camonica and the Upper Engadine. Its gneiss is intersected at Cavaglia 
 (p. 340) and Pisciadella by the two Bernina routes, and is almost entirely 
 encircled by granite, hornblende, and serpentine, which occurs in none of 
 the other central masses. The structure of the Bernina exhibits no 
 tendency to the fan-shape, the rocks being exclusively schistous, and 
 diflering from the granitic gneiss and protogine granites of the N. and W. 
 central masses. The declension of the strata is always to the N. and N.E. 
 The G r a n i t e of Brusio ( p. 341) appears in the huge .slate formation 
 declining to the N. as a considerable intervening layer only, as on both 
 sides the inclination of the gneiss and mica slate is the same. 
 
 The Central Mass of the Silvretta, between the Engadine and Vorarl- 
 berg exhibits, in common with the more western central masses on the 
 verge of the Central Zone the Fan- Shaped structure, the Super- 
 position of the C rij stall i ne Slates over the Jura and more Recent 
 Strata, and the occurrence of Granitic Gneiss in the axis of the 
 fan. Another characteristic of this mass is the vast extent of the Horn- 
 blende Schists whicli partially supersede the gneiss, and the meridional 
 extension of the associated varieties of rock, so that the longitudinal axis 
 of the mass corresponds neither to the direction of the laminatidn nor the 
 watershed. The Granite, which from the W. extremity foims the axis 
 of the range, extends over the eminences of the Silvretta, Fermont, and 
 Jamthal snow-movmtains from the source of the Landquart (p. 284). and 
 the III fp. 350). 
 
 An attempt has thus been made to trace the central masses from the 
 centre as far as the E. and W. limits of Switzerland. 
 
 Alpine Farming. In spring, as soon as the snow melts on tlie N. side 
 of the Alps, and the first herbage makes its appearance, the cattle are 
 released from their winter confinement, and driven to the lower pastures; 
 about the middle of .Tune higher regions ai-e ascended, and at the com- 
 mencement of July a portion of the herds attain the most elevated 
 pastures. At the beginning of September they descend to the lower 
 districts, and about October 10th return to the valleys and their winter- 
 quarters. In summer the best cows yield from 15 to '20 quarts of m.ilk 
 daily, from which, during the pasture season of 4 months, about 2 cwt. 
 of cheese is prepared, realizing on an average 50 cent, per pound. The 
 best quality of cheese is produced on pastures 3000* above the level of 
 the sea. the most favoured districts being the valleys of the Emme (p. 92). 
 the Simmen (p 153), and the Sarine (p. 154). The herdsman (Senne) with 
 his boys has abundant occupation in assembling his 80 or £0 cows twice 
 daily to be milked, in superintending the preparation of the cheese, and 
 cleaning the vessels employed in the process. The stables or huts 
 (Fr. Chalet, Oer. Sennhiitte) in which the cattle and herdsmen are housed 
 during the night, and the cheese manufactured, are rudely constructed of 
 pine-logs, and not always impervious to wind and rain' the fiat roofs
 
 <or8ist of broad, oMong. or square pieces of wood, secured by heavy 
 stones. The chalets of the better class are usually divided into th:ee 
 • onipartiuenfs, the largest containing the lire-place and milk cauldron, 
 another being the dairy, or cheese manufactory, and the thiid a sleeping 
 room. The entiie, furniture consists of a wooden bench and table. Although 
 the vicinity of lliese huts is ginerally diity and uninviting, they will be 
 hailed with no little satisfaction by the hungry wayfarer, as they usually 
 afford excellent milk, fresh butter, cheese. a"nd breed. In elevated and 
 remote regions even this Alpine fare is not always to be obtained, whilst 
 in m\uh-frcqucntcd districts other refreshmtnts — colTee. wine, honey, 
 eggs, and even a not uncomfortai)le couch of hay may be found at the 
 chalets. A large propoition of the huts with which certain distiict.s aie 
 so thickly strewn, and which in appearance do not diirer from these lude 
 mountain-dwellings, are receptacles for hay only. 
 
 For the Preparation of C/ieese, the freshest milk, or that from which 
 the cream has alreadv been removed, is employed according to the quality 
 of the cheese to be manufactured. The cheese having been separated from 
 the whey by means of unn.t. and pressed, is placed in the magazine, 
 where it is turned daily, and moistened with cloths saturated with salt- 
 water. If the whey is not imploycd for sanitaiy purposes, an inferior 
 quality of cheese (.-Zieger') is again prepared frcm'it. The residue seives 
 to fatten the pigs which arc frequently kept for this purpose on the 
 iiioiintains. 
 
 The term 'Alp', employed so frequently in the following pages, sigui- 
 lies a mountain-pasture. '■Matteu'' is a tenn applied to the richer and 
 less elevated meadow-land. 'Graf (hncit. .- a nigged Mul precipitous 
 niountain-ridge. 
 
 XIV. Glaciers. 
 
 The somewhat granular snow (Xeige Grenve) which falls in the most 
 elevated Alpine regions, above the snow line (8000'), accumulates in the 
 valleys and clefts of the rocks, is partially melted during the day, espe- 
 cially in the lower districts, and during the night is converted into a solid 
 frozen mass. Thus, layer by layer, is foimcd the Glacier, the most 
 striking feature nf the" Alpine world, a stupendous mass of the purest 
 a/\ire ice. 
 
 Xo aspect i)f Switzerland is so strikingly, and at the same time ^o 
 strangely beautiful, as when in some fertile and wooded valley we have 
 the glittering pinnacles of a glacier suddenly presented to our astonished gaze 
 in the immediate pro.ximity of corn-fields, fiuit-trees. smiling meadows, and 
 human habitations. Such a eomldnation foims one of the most wonderful 
 nf Nature's paradoxes. 
 
 The more tjx tensive or Primari/ glaciers are long arms of solid ice, 
 resembling fruzen cataracts, which occupy entire valleys, frequently with 
 a very slight fall, and are estimated to attain a thickness of 1500'. The 
 smaller or Secondari/ glaciers are of more limited extent, occupying the 
 mountain - sliipes with a considerable fall, and of a less massive con- 
 ••istencv. 
 
 At'an altitude exceeding 10.000' above the sea-levd. the intluence of 
 the sun is too inconsiderable to melt the surface of the smiw sufficiently 
 for its conversion into ice. This snowy, unconsolidated upper portion 
 f>f the glacier is termed Firii (Fr. AVrt*), which at a lower ekvatitn, 
 where the sun's rays become more powerful, gradually blends with the 
 ice of the glacier, fonned as already described. The glacier is therefore, 
 as it were, the niT-^hoot of the Fiin! but is easily distinguishable fiom it, 
 the surface of the ice being luunded towards the margins, and that of the 
 Firu towaids the centre. 
 
 Whilst the fall of snow and the formation of glacier-ice suHer no inter- 
 ini«si<in. the extent of the glaciers does not increase. The compensation
 
 XLII XIY. GLACIERS. 
 
 in the more elevated regions is effected by the evaporation and absorption 
 of the ice by the influence of the sun and air, in the lower regions by 
 the convervsion of the ice into water, which descends through the fissures, 
 and forms a brook, the invariable outlet of every glacier. 
 
 It is a well-established fact that glaciers are in a perpetual state of 
 motion, and descend with more or less rapidity. Professor Forbes found 
 that the ice of the Mer de Glace advanced 209' per annum at the source 
 of the Arveiron, whilst at the base of the Montanvert the annual pro- 
 gression amounted to 822'. The motion in winter is less rapid than in 
 spring and summer. It has been calculated that 200 years would elapse 
 before a mass of rock, lying on the surface of the glacier at its upper ex- 
 tremity, would reach the valley of Chamouny. 
 
 Saussure (pp. 218, 232) attributes the advance of glaciers entirely f > 
 the mechanical pressure exercised by the masses of snow on the upper 
 portions, whilst the lower extremities gradually melt away. Agassiz (p. 135) 
 and his disciples maintain that the increase of glaciers is owing to the rain 
 and snow which penetrate into the fissures, and, being converted into ice, 
 tend to force the glacier downwards. Forbes is of opinion that the glacier 
 is a sluggish stream which, notwithstanding the apparently brittle nature 
 of the ice, possesses sufficient plasticity to accommodate itself to the irre- 
 gularities of its bed. 
 
 The masses of rock and detritus which become detached from the 
 mountain-sides descend either to the glacier itself or to its margins, and, 
 as the glacier continually, but imperceptibly advances, form long walls or 
 barriers on either side. These are termed Lateral Moraines (Germ. 
 Gandecken). When two glaciers meet, their lateral moraines extend over 
 the surface of the ice, and form long walls of rubbish, termed Medial 
 Moraines (Germ. Gufferlinien), which, conveyed by the glacier to its 
 lower extremity, and there deposited, constitute the T e r minal Morain e 
 (Germ. Stirnwali). The stones of the latter thus generally afford a clue to 
 the nature of the inaccessible rocks of the higher Alps. 
 
 The formation of ice on the upper portion of the glacier is usually 
 exactly compensated by the absorption and dissolution of the ice etTected 
 by the agency of the sun and air, and the glacier seldom advances beyond its 
 accustomed bed. This, however, is by no means invariably the case ■■, in 
 1818, the terminal moraine of the Rhone Glacier ( p. 137) for example, ad- 
 vanced 150'. The lower extremity of the glacier, or tongue, as it may be 
 called, then forces everything before it — soil, turf, stones, trees, and the 
 ruins of human habitations — forming a huge wall with the rubbish of 
 its lateral and medial moraines. If, on the other hand, the formation of 
 ice is exceeded by the consumption, the glacier decreases, draws in its 
 feelers, so to speak, and retires into the narrow mountain-gullies. The 
 former extent of the glacier can in this case be traced by the position of 
 the terminal moraine (p. 132). Warm seasons (1811, 1822, 1827. 1834) 
 occasioned retrogression, whilst an advance of the glaciers, sometimes 
 amounting to 2' dailv, was observed in the vears 1815-17, 1828-30, 1836, 
 1837, 1857-59, and finally in 1861. 
 
 Large slabs of rock are occasionally seen on the glaciers, supported 
 by pillars of ice. These so-called Glacier Tables protect the ice on 
 which they rest from the influence of the sun's rays, while the ice in their 
 vicinity dissolves, thus insulating the -table'. Smaller objects, such as 
 stones, leaves, or even a dead insect, produce an opposite effect on the 
 surface of the ice. They become heated bj- the sun, and melting the ice 
 under them, form Hollows. 
 
 When the glacier stream overflows the verge of a precipice, the solid 
 icy mass is rent by innumerable fractures, which by exposure to the sun 
 and air give rise to the Ice-XeedJes and I c e - Pu r a m ids. 
 
 The streams formed by the melting of the ice on the surface of the 
 glacier descend into the crevices and fissures, and, occasionally penetrating 
 the entire mass, unite with the brook beneath the glacier. In the former 
 case they are termed Brunnen, or wells. Fr. Baignoirs: in the latter,
 
 XV. WRESTLING MATCHES. XLIII 
 
 Trichter, or funnels. Fr. Monlins. These openings and clefts are closed 
 in winter, and the mass of ice becomes more consolidated. In spring and 
 summer, iiowever. new rents are continually formed, usually accompanied 
 Nv a loud cracking noise. 
 
 Tlie Crevasses (Gor. Schriinde) are a constant source of vexation to 
 the glacier-wanderer. When he has succeeded in surmounting the lofty 
 and precipitous moraines, and has threaded his way through a chaos of 
 rocks on the surface of the ice. his progress is tuo often obstructed by 
 some yawning gulf which compels him to retrace his steps, or have re- 
 course to a long circuitous route. When these abysses are concealed by 
 newly-fallen snow, a single incautious step may be attended with the most 
 disastrous consequences. 
 
 The beds of ancient glaciers may frequently be traced by the singular 
 manner in which they have polished and furrowed the surface of the 
 rocks over which thoy have passed. This phenomenon (Germ. Gletscher- 
 schliff) is occasioned by the friction of pebbles and fragments of quartz, 
 interposed between the glacier and the rock, and is observed only on 
 granite and gneiss. An instance of this kind may be inspected by travellers 
 at the Hundeck (p. 133). from which, in conjunction with numerous other 
 indications of a similar nature, it is inferred that the extent occupied 
 by glaciers at a very remote period w-as far greater than at the present 
 day. This supposition is corroborated by the frequent occurrence of 
 Erratic Blocks of granite in districts whither they can have been 
 conveyed by some external force alone, having been in all probability 
 deposited by ancient glaciers. It is a remarkable fact that boulders of 
 this description are found on the E. slopes of the Jura, near Bienne and 
 Soleure, where the rock-formation consists entirely of limestone. 
 
 The glacier-domain of Switzerland extends from Jlont Blanc to the 
 Ortler; the entire area tlius occupied is computed at 800 sq. 31. The 
 cantons of the Orisons (225), Bern (155), and the Valais (130) comprise 
 9;ioths of the Swiss glaciers (5-10). Of these, ^Jards send their waters to 
 the Rhine. The mightiest glacier mass is the Bernina (p. 331); the most 
 extensive glacier, 15 M. in length, is the Aletsch Glacier (p. 141). 
 
 XV. "Wrestling Matches. 
 
 ( Schwingfeste.) 
 
 On stated occasions the youth of a valley, or of several neighbouring 
 valleys, congregate for the purpose of wrestling. The elders and children 
 of the community take part in the scene as spectators. For a victory to 
 be decisive, the vanquished wrestler must be thrown upon his back by 
 his antagonist, and so obstinately are these contests prolonged that injuries 
 of a serious nature not unfrequently result. 
 
 These are very curious and characteristic spectacles if witnessed where 
 they are not got up for purposes of gain and the diversion of strangers. 
 This is often the case in localities much frequented by travellers, a« 
 Interlaken : but these exhibitions, being mere spec\ilations, are of course 
 devoid of all the originality of the genuine matches, which are extremely 
 interesting and exciting. 
 
 The following are the fixed dates of some of the most important 
 matches. 
 
 The 29th June at Schiipfheim, in the Entlebuch (p. 91). 
 
 The Sunday after the 5th July on the Seealp, in the canton of 
 Appenzell. 
 
 The Sundav after the 25th Julv (St. James) on the Batersalp. 3 M. 
 from Weissbad (p. 279). 
 
 The 22nd Julv on the Kigi (p. 58). 
 
 The 26th July at Sachseln (p. 90). 
 
 The 26th July on the Engstlenalp, near Meiringen (p. 129). 
 
 The 1st Sunday in August en the Stadtalp. near Meiringen (p. 124).
 
 XLIV XV. WRESTLING MATCHES. 
 
 The 1st Sunday in August on the Wengernalp (p. 114). 
 
 The 10th August on the Tannalp, near Meiringen (p. 124). 
 
 The 2nd Sunday in August at Ennetegg in the Entlebuch (p. 91). 
 
 The l.Dth August near the Chapel of Kotre-Dame-de-la-Gorge on (h-^ 
 Mont Joli (p. 230). 
 
 The last Sunday in August at Ennetegg in the Entlebuch. 
 
 In the month of August, on the patron Saint's day, near the Baths of 
 T'rnasch in the Canton of Appenzell. 
 
 The 1st Sunday in September at Ennetegg. 
 
 The 29th September and 1st Sunday in October at St. Joseph near 
 Sehiipfheim (p. 91). 
 
 Abbreviations used in the Handbook. 
 
 R. = Room. S. = South. 
 
 L. = Light. E. = East. 
 
 B. = Breakfast. W. = West. 
 
 D. = Dinner. r. = right. 
 
 S. = Supper. 1. = left. 
 
 A. = Attendance. hr. = Hour. 
 
 N. = Iforth. min. = Minute. 
 
 M. = English mile. ft. (') = Engl. foot. 
 
 X.B. Everj-thing particularly worthy of note is indicated by an a3teri3k. 
 Distances in the more mountainous districts are given according to the 
 time in which a moderate walker would traverse them.
 
 1. Bale. 
 
 Hotels. Throe Kinps (Tlan a) on the Rhine, R. 2 fr. and upwards, 
 L. l'-... K. I'jv. D. at o'clock 4, A. 1 fr. ; 'S ch w e i z erho f ; opposite to it. 
 lintel Euler, R. 2, 1$. Ul-j, A. ^j^, omnibus 1 fr., both at the Central 
 Station : Fane o n ; C i g o g n e (PI. b), R. 1% B. Iii4, D. inc. W. 3, A. ^U fr. ; 
 Sauvage (PI. c), .similar prices. — 'Couronne (PI. d). Kopf (Pi. e), 
 lioth on the Rhine; Hotel de la Poste; Schiff, unpretending, well 
 spoken of, R. and A. 2 fr. — In Klein-Basel, on the r. bank of the Rhine. 
 Bear (PI. g), R. lifo, B. 1, A. 'f- fr. : opposite to it the '^^Croix (PI. h); 
 Hotel Schrieder, opposite the station of the Baden railway. The usual 
 dinner-hour at all the hotels is 12. 30. 
 
 Cafes etc. Caf(Sdes Trois Rois. near the hotel of that name; 
 (^'afe "National, on the r. bank of the Rhine near the bridge; Cafe 
 de Bale near the theatre. Refreshment-rooms at the Central Station and 
 I lie Baden Station. — Kibiger, Barfiisserplatz ; Schuhmacher, opp. 
 to the Central Station; Summer-Casino (PI. 18), concert on Wed. 
 G — 9 p. m. — Thomas garden, near the Central Station. 
 
 Conveyances. O ni n i b u s from the Station to the town (50 lbs. of luggage 
 free) 'J2 fr., from the Baden to the Central Station 1 fr. Carriage for 
 >|4 hr. 1—2 persons 80 c., 3—4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c, by the hour 2—3 fr., to or 
 from the station 1 — 4 pei-s. Hj^ fr., from one station to the other 1 — 2 pers. 
 Hj-.., 3 — 4 pors. 2 fr., each box 30 c. extra. 
 
 Railway-Stations. Baden S t a t i o n in Klein-Basel ^\i M. (in a straight 
 direction) from the Rhine Bridge; duly payable on carved woodwork 
 l)rought from Switzerland 10 kreuzer per lb. The Alsace and the Swiss 
 lines both start from the Central Station in Bale, on the S. side of the 
 town, about 1 M. from the Rhine bridge. The waiting-rooms of the former 
 are on the r.. those of the latter on the 1. side of the building. The exterior 
 of the station is adorned with relief- portraits of Xewton , Humboldt. 
 Laplace, and Euler (p. 4). Above the doors in the portico are the arms of 
 the 22 Cantons. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Offices (PI. 16) in the Freien-Strasse; also at the 
 Central Station. 
 
 Baths in the Rhine near the Miinster, entrance from the Pfalz (p. 3). 
 Warm baths at M eyer-Ri tier's in the Elisabethen - Strasse ; Sigmund, 
 Leonhardstrasse. 
 
 Newspapers in the Reading Club (open 10 a. ni. to Oijz p. m.) by the 
 liinster. Strangers must be introduced bA- a member, perhaps the land- 
 'id of their hotel. 
 
 English Church Service in the Church of St. Martin (PI. S). 
 
 Bale, or />V;.se/ (871'). tho principal town of tho half-ranton 
 iiale-Villc (pop. 44.834. 1*2.019 Rom. C'ath.l. is first mentioncfl 
 in the year 374 inidor the name of Basilea, and appears to have 
 been founded by the Koman army when it fell back on the 
 Rhine near tlie old Colonia Auijusta Raurncorurii, founded B. C. 
 "27 by L. Munatius Plancus (^now called Basel-Augst, 5 M. from 
 Rale on the 1. bank of the Rhine). Rale is greatly Indebted 
 for its wealth . which has become proverbial , to its favourable 
 position at the Junction of the frontiers of Germany. France, and 
 Switzerland. 
 
 R-T.PF.KF.n. Swilzrrland. ')[h Edit ion, [
 
 2 Route 1. BALK. Mi'mster. 
 
 Tlie town lies on the 1. bank of tlie Rliiiie, and is connected 
 with Klein-Basel on the r. bank by a wooden bridge , 280 yds. 
 in length, in the middle of which is a triangular obelisk, furnished 
 with a barometer, thermometer, etc. 
 
 The *Munster (PI. 9), an imposing edifice, the two lofty 
 towers of which are visible from a considerable distance, w^as 
 formerly the Cathedral of the see of Bale (the bishop's residence 
 is now at Soleure). It was built by the Emperor Henry II. in 
 1010 — 1019, and was restored in 1185, after having been des- 
 troyed by fire. In 1356 the old building was all but levelled 
 by an earthquake , but is now rebuilt in the Gothic style. Of 
 the original structure the N. portal, or St. Gallus gate-way, still 
 exists, and is adorned with statues of the Evangelists, John the 
 Baptist, and other saints; over the church-door is a relief repre- 
 senting the wise and foolish virgins; at the sides in 6 niches 
 are the works of charity, and at the top Christ on the Judgment- 
 seat and the angels at the last day. The W. Front under the 
 towers, with the principal portal and two side-entrances, belongs 
 to the 14th cent. ; on the front are represented the Virgin and 
 Child, and under them the Emp. Henry, the founder and bene- 
 factor of the church, with the Empress Helena; on the two side- 
 entrances are two knights, on the 1. )St. George and the Dragon, 
 and on the r. St. Martin. The towers, which are 218' in height, 
 were not completed till 1500. In the year 1431 the convocation 
 of the great Cotmcil in the Miinster first began ; it consisted of 
 upwards of 500 clergymen . whose ostensible task was a 'refor- 
 mation of the Church in head and members' ; but after having 
 disputed for years without any result, and having been excom- 
 municated by Pope Eugene IV. , the Convocation was at last 
 dissolved in 1448. The Church Is open to the public on Tues- 
 days and Fridays, 2 — 4 p, m. The sacristan lives opposite to 
 the principal entrance (fee 1/2 f^.); in summer he is generally 
 to be found in the church at the above hours. 
 
 Tlie interior of the Miinster was bereft of its most beautiful ornaments 
 in the great iconoclasm of 1529, but was re-decorated in 1852 — 56 with 
 great skill, and is now one of the finest Protestant churches in existence. 
 The beautiful rood-loft of 1381 now serves to support the organ, a very 
 fine instrument, performances on which may be heard once or twice a week 
 in summer, 6 — 7 p. m. (admission 1 fr.). The pulpit dates from 1424. The 
 aisles and choir contain fine old monuments and tombstones built into 
 the walls ; in the N. aisle is the old episcopal chair ; also reliefs of the 
 11th cent, (scenes from the lives of the martyrs); the font is of 1465; on 
 the pillar opposite is the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of Rotter- 
 dam (d. 1536), with a long Latin inscription. In the passage round the 
 choir arc the monuments of the Empress Anna (d. 1281), consort of Rudolph 
 of Hapsburg and mother of Albert I., and of her youngest son Charles. 
 The stained-glass windows, representing Moses and David, Peter and 
 Paul, and the four Evangelists, are by artists of Ziirich and St. Gall, and 
 the newest, representing Christ as Judge of the world, is from the 
 stained-glass Institution of Munich. The crypt, which lielongs to the 
 original edifice, is now occupied by the stoves employed in heating the 
 church. A stair leads fi-om the choir to the Council Hall., in which.
 
 Museum. RALK. 1. Route. 3 
 
 one of the five principal committees used to asseml)lo. It is exactly in 
 the state in which it was left 400 years a<i;o. All that was considered 
 worth preserving at the restoration of the church is kept here and in the 
 chapel of St. Nicholas (see below), such as antiquities of the middle ages, 
 and fragments of the nine frescoes of the celebrated Bale Veath-dance, painted 
 at the commencement of tlie loth cent, in commemoration of the plague, 
 and erroneously attributed to Holbein. In the Chapel of St. Nicholas^ 
 beneath the Council Hall, may be seen the Ldllenkoniy, a large head formerly 
 placed on the clock-tower of the Rhine bridge (taken down in 1H39), which 
 rolled its eyes and protruded its long tongue ('Liilli') at each stroke of the 
 pendulum, erected in derision of the inhabitants of Klein Basel in conse- 
 quence of some dispute. 
 
 On the S. side of the Choir are extensive *Cloisters, con- 
 structed in the years 13G'2, 1400, and 14S7, connecting tlie church 
 with the Episcopal palace, and employed as family burial-places. 
 These cloisters extend to the Pfalz, a terrace behind the Miin- 
 ster, rising 78' immediately above the Rhine, and deriving its 
 name from an imperial Pfalz, or palace, to which it is said for- 
 merly to have belonged. It is planted with chestnuts, and affords 
 a pleasing prospect of the green river and the dark heights of 
 the Black Forest. Below the Pfalz are the swimming and bathing 
 establishments, and above the most western of the latter is the 
 Reading Club (p. 1). Behind the Miinster is the house of Eras- 
 mus of Rotterdam; near it, a statue of Oecolampadius. 
 
 In the street leading from the Miinsterplatz in a N.W. direc- 
 tion to the bridge, is the *Museum (PI. 14), open to the public 
 on Sundays from 10 to 12, and Wednesdays from 2 to 4 o'clock 
 (collection of engravings open on Thursdays from 2 to 5); on other 
 days admission 1 fr. It contains a picture-gallery and collections 
 of natural and scientific curiosities. 
 
 The Picture Gallery is principally remarkable for the paintings 
 and drawings which it contains of the younger Holbein (b. at Augsburg 
 1498, d. at London 1554). Ante-room." 1. Holbein; 2.— 11. Old copies 
 fnmi Holbein. — Collection of Drawings. 135, 136, 137. by Diirer. 
 153. Drawings of the 'Last Judgment' in the Ludwigskirche at Munich, 
 by Cornelius; under glass, 'The praise of Folly' of Erasmus with marginal 
 drawings by Holbein. — ^Picture Gallery. A. Holbein Saloon: 7, 
 8. Schoolmaster's signboard of 151G; 14. The burgomaster Jacob Meyer 
 and his wife; 16. Erasmus of Rotterdam; 20. Wife and children of the 
 painter; 21. The Last Supper; 26. The Passion, in 8 sections, for which 
 in 1641 the Elector Maximilian of Bavaria oflered the sum of 30,000 (1. ; 
 34. The printer Froben ; 36. A London merchant ; 52, 53. //. f //>.<, St. John 
 the Baptist. — B. Old German Saloon: 85. Cranarfi, St. Ursula. — 
 C. Bale Saloon: 133. Battle of St. Jacob, by Hieron. Hess; 141. Entrance 
 into Bale of the confederate ambassadors in 1501 to take the oaths of 
 allegiance to the Confederation, Landerer; '148. Schreckhorn and Wetter- 
 horn, Calame; 139. Horse-piece, Kollev. — D. Fourth Saloon: 173. 
 Lute-player, '174. Interior of a Dutch cottage, both by Tenters; 199. Sleep 
 the Type of Death, by Caracci; 209. aiacbeth and tlie Witches, by Koch. 
 — Room E. Birniann's Collection: 267. The Nativity, by An. Caracci; 
 ^^270. Madonna and Child, ascribed to Gherardesca da Siena; "281. Cardinal 
 Fleury, by Phil, de Champaigne ; 292. The Adoration, by Mabuse; 289. Por- 
 trait, ascribed to Rembrandt; 291. The Smoker by Tenicrs; 260.— 273. Pictures 
 by Peter Birmann ; 274—279. Pictures by Sam'. Jiirmann (d. 18i7). — The 
 Sixth Room, 1. of the Holbein Saloon, contains unnumbered pictures by 
 Steinle, Schnorr^ Hess, Schraudolph., Overbeck, etc. — The Cabinet of An- 
 tiquities contains Honian and Greek relics, statuettes, ancient ecclesia.-'ti- 
 
 1*
 
 4 Route 1. BALE. Toxcn Hall. 
 
 cal vessels, idols, Swiss coins. Etruscan vases. Mosaics, &c. — The JFexica n 
 Cabinet contains a number of Mexican curiosities and other objects of 
 interest, among which are two mummies. 
 
 The University Library in the same building (open from 
 2 to 4) contains upwards of 85,000 volumes and' 4000 MSS.; 
 among the latter are the transactions of the church council, 
 writings of Luther, Melanchthon, etc. The University (130 students), 
 founded in 1459 by Pius IL , is celebrated as the school of the 
 great mathematicians Bernouilli , Merian, and Euler. The hall 
 contains upwards of 100 portraits of the learned men of Bale, 
 of the cosmographer Sebastian Milnster (d. 1552), the reformers 
 Oecolampadius and Grynaeus, etc. 
 
 The Town Hall (PI. 17) in the Market-place was erected in 
 1508 in the so-called Burgundian style, and renewed in 1826. 
 The facade is adorned with the town -arms (a black episcopal 
 staff resting on a fisherman's grappling-iron). 
 
 The Arsenal (PI. 23), the receptacle of the arms for the Bale 
 contingent of troops, contains little worthy of note except the 
 shirt of mail worn by Charles the Bold. 
 
 The handsome Spahlen-Thor (St. Paul), erected about the 
 year 1400, deserves inspection ; the other gates, bastions, and 
 ramparts have been converted into public walks. 
 
 Among other Mediaeval Relics may be mentioned the Fish- 
 market- Fountain, erected in the 14th cent.; the Spahlen-Fountain 
 with a bagpiper from a design by Holbein ; the Roman archway 
 in the old St. Albans Monastery (PI. 5). — The Barfiisser-Church 
 (PI. 4), dating from the beginning of the 13th cent., with its 
 very lofty choir, now serves as a store-house. — The Church of 
 St. Martin (PI. 8) was restored in 1851 and converted into a 
 -Protestant place of worship. — The new Gothic EUsabethenkirche 
 (PI. 6) was erected at the expense of a wealthy citizen of Bale; 
 it contains some fine painted glass, executed at Munich. — The 
 newly restored (Pom. Cath.) Church of St. Clara (PI. 25) in 
 Klein-Basel contains a fine organ. 
 
 The Mission - House (PL 12) educates missionaries for the promul- 
 gation of Christianity. An excellent f<ociety for the Promotion of tlic 
 Public Welfare, which has existed in Bale for nearly a century, has a very 
 extensive sphere of operations. There are also similar institutions in 
 tlie neighbourhood: Deaf and Dumb Asylum. Estab. for Prot. Sisters of 
 Charity and Reformatory at Riehen. 
 
 The Monument of St. Jacob (PI. 3), a Gothic obelisk about '(-i i*I- to 
 the S.E. of the Aeschen gate, on the high-road to the 3Iiinster-Thal , was 
 erected in 1824 over the burial place of Swiss soldiers w\\o fell in 1444 
 lighting for the liberties of their countiy. Large bodies of irregular troops 
 had assembled in France under the Count Armagnac, with 30,CX)0 of which 
 the Dauphin marched against the Confederates at Bale. The latter were 
 stationed at the fortress of Farnsburg, about 15 M. to the S.E. of the town, 
 and, on the approach of the French, 13()() men immediately attempted to 
 force their passage to Bale. After a desperate conflict they were all cut to 
 pieces near the village of St. Jacob where the last and bloodiest struggle 
 tf)ok place. The red wine (not of a very superior quality) yielded by the 
 vineyards which now occupy the scene of the battle is known by the name 
 of 'Swiss Blood",
 
 2. From Bale to Bienne Bern and Neiichdtelj through 
 the Miinster-Thal. 
 
 76i|\i 31. to Bern. The hifili road still possesses great interest f(jr 
 lovers of the picturesque. Dili thence to Kienne once daily in D^J^ hrs. ; 
 fare 12 fr. 30 c. Bv Railway (direct) from Bienne to Bern in 1— 1'|4 hr. ; 
 fares 3 fr. 75, 2 frl 65, 1 fr. 90 c. ; t(; Xeuchatel in 3,4— I'n hr. ■■, fares 3 fr. 
 15, 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 70 c. 
 
 The Miinsterthal, French Val-Moutier, through which the Birs flows, is 
 the tjrandesf and most remarkable in the whole Jura range. It is a suc- 
 cession of deliles and narrow gorges, whose banks are clothed with firs, 
 whilst the plain smiles with verdant meadows, picturesque villages, and 
 mills. This valley, which l)elongs to the ancient bishopric of Bale, served 
 the Romans as a line of communication between Aveiitiriun (.Vvenches, 
 see p. 165), the most important town of Helvetia, and Aiif/usta Rauracorum 
 (.\ugst, see p. J8). one of their advanced posts on the Rhine. 
 
 About V'i^- from the Aesclieuthor the road passes the Monu- 
 ment of St. Jacob (p. 4). District tlat. To the E. , on the 
 opposite bank of the Birs, several ruined castles appear, amongst 
 others Schloss Birseck near Arlesheim (1066'). Farther on, Dor- 
 nach (1648'j where, on July 22nd, 1499,' 6000 Confederates 
 defeated 15,000 Austrians, thus terminating the Swabian war. 
 In the church of this village reposes Maupertuis (d. 1759), the 
 celebrated mathematician. 
 
 T'/h M- Aesch (Sonne). To the 1., on the opposite bank of 
 the liirs, rises the ancient castle of Anyenstein, situated in the 
 Canton of Bern. To the 1., before Grellinyen is readied, 
 is situated a silk-factory. The road now enters a more moun- 
 tainous and picturesque district. Near Ffeffinyen the narrow valley 
 (•Kins') is commanded by the ruins of a castle of that name, 
 on the eminence to the r. The green dale of the Birs here 
 forms a pleasing contrast to the wooded mountains, whose barren 
 summits here and there show the bluish calcareous stone of 
 which they are composed. The old Castle of Zwinyen was the 
 residence of the episcopal governors of the district, until the first 
 French revolution. 
 
 TVs -^^- Lauffen (1155') (Sonne), at the confluence of the 
 L'dsei and Birs. The valley here widens, but soon contracts again. 
 At Sauyern (Fr. Soyhiere) (Kreuz) a difference in the language 
 is remarked, a portion of the village being German, the remainder 
 French. Further on are seen the ruins of the castle of the same 
 name, liellerive, now a manufactory, is situated at the rocky 
 egress of the valley, near the point where it expands into a 
 broad plain. At a considerable height, immediately above the 
 road, is perched the castle of Vobury. On emerging from the 
 ravine , the road turns to the r. to 
 
 10V« M. Del6mont (1430'), Ger. Delsbery (*0ur3; Faucon), 
 with a country residence of the former Bishops of Bale. 
 
 From Delomont to Por r en t r>i y a diligence runs daily in 43J4 hrs., 
 passing by llic foot of .\foti( 'l\-nil>l>-. Porrentruy. Cer. I'ni'ntnit (Ours),
 
 6 Route 2. MUNSTERTHAL. 
 
 was once a residence of tlie Bishops of Bale. E>:cuisions S. to the wiM 
 and romantic valley of the Doiibs (R. 44), N.E. to the castles of Morimonl 
 (Ger. Miirsperg) and Fereite (Ger. I'/rt), with a beautiful view over the 
 plains of Alsace and the Vosges, thence by Burg and Lands^kron to Bale. 
 
 At Coarrendim (1447'), Ger. Rennendorf {Qcxi), a village 
 with considerable iron-works, the so-called *Munsterthal is 
 reached, a grand and romantic defile traversed by the Birs. The 
 huge cleft through which the stream passes testifies to the mighty 
 convulsion which has forced the horizontal strata to assume their 
 present almost perpendicular position, resembling gigantic walls 
 on either side of the road. In the middle of this defile and at 
 the most interesting spot on the whole route, arc situated the 
 glass-manufactories and forges of Roche. 
 
 From M ii n s t e r to the W e i s s e n s t c i n. At the mouth of the gorge, 
 near the ■ Pflug inn, a good road, bounded on the S. by the rugged de- 
 clivities of Mt. Graiteru, and on the N. by the wooded heights of Le Cornet., 
 ascends to the 1. to (2i|4 M.) Gravfelden (Fr. Grandval) and (3(4 M.) Crc- 
 niine (Kreuz), passing the clock-manufactory of M. Ferret; following the 
 course of the Rmisse, which here forms some picturesque cascades, it next 
 reaches t2'j4 M.) St. Joseph am Gdnsbvunnen (Post). This place is situated 
 at the N. base of the Weissenstein., whose summit can easily be attained in 
 
 2 hrs ; the road is good , the latter part through a forest. Carriages may 
 be had from Gansbrunnen (15 fr.) to the Weissenstein, 'as well as to 
 Miinster; from Miinstcr to the Weissenstein 20 to 25 fr. Diligence between 
 Miinster and Olten by Gansbrunnen daily in 61J4 hrs. 
 
 7^8 ^I- Moutier, Ger. Miinster (1690'J (Krone; Hirsch) , an 
 ancient and handsome village , situated in a fertile dale , which 
 3/4 M. farther again contracts. The road now traverses a wild 
 pine -clad gorge threaded by the Birs. It again emerges at the 
 village of Court (2172') (Ours), and l'/2 M. farther reaches 
 Sonvilliers. 
 
 Before reaching Bivilard , the next village , a rugged path leads (in 
 
 3 hrs.) to Reuchenetie (see above) over the Montoz (4371'). The intricacy 
 of the route renders a guide desirable. The view is similar to that from 
 the Weissenstein. 
 
 The road next traverses pasture-land and reaches 
 
 71/8 M. Malleray (*Lion d'Or, R. and L. 21/2 fr., B. IV2 fr.). 
 
 Near Tavannes, Ger. Dachsfelden (2546') (*Krone), the road 
 again ascends; in 10 minutes it leads to Pierre Pertuis (petra 
 pertusa) (2582'), a natural opening in the rock, 40 feet high, 
 and more than once fortified in time of war. It bears a restored 
 Roman inscription on the N. side, which cannot be earlier tlian 
 161 A. D. This gate, the highest point between Tavannes and 
 Sonceboz. marked the limit of the Helvetian province, and, at a 
 later date, of the bishoprics of Avenches, Lausanne, and Bale. 
 The Birs has its source at the foot of this mountain. 
 
 6% M. Sonceboz (2198') (*Krone), a village in the valley 
 of Erguei or St. Jmier. Diligence (3 times daily in 4 lirs.) to 
 La-Chaux-de-Fonds , through this charming valley enlivened by 
 the signs of industry (watch-manufactories) and numerous flocks. 
 
 The road to Bienne follows the course of the Sclieuss (Suze), 
 passing the villages Lci IJutte ajid Reucheneite (Forelle) (1942').
 
 lUKNNK. 'J. RouU. i 
 
 Tlic (Ad road passes the ruins of the Clidttau liond-Cliald. 
 From the BIJzinger Hijhe, the last eminence of tlic Jura, a 
 '■''ma^inilicent view is disclosed of the extensive district watered 
 by the Aare, Emmc, and the Zihl, forming an amphitheatre of 
 upwards of 180 miles. Beyond Reuchcnette the new road crosses 
 to the r. bank of the 8uze, thus missing the above-mentioned 
 prospect, but amply compensating the traveller by the view 
 it affords of the valley, as well as by its interesting construction 
 (tunnels and rocky galleries). 
 
 U-'^/y M. Bienne, German Biel tHotci du Jura; Croix, 
 
 U. fijv, B. 1, L. •{.;, A. ^li, Omnibus ij-^ fr. ; Couronnc; IJrcwcry 
 Zum See/els; baths in the Scheuss, l'(4 M. below thc^ town), 
 an ancient town, free and independent from 1250 to 1798, is 
 situated near the lake of the same name and at the S. base of the 
 Jura, the lower slopes of which are planted with the vine. Pop. 
 8113 (81)1 Kom. Cath.). Colonel Schwab willingly admits visitors 
 to his interesting Collection of Antiquities (found in the ancient 
 Swiss lake-villages). The new church is Rom. Catholic. 
 
 From Bienne to Neuchatel see pp. 9, 10. 
 
 From Bienne to Bern the direct railway crosses the 
 Zihl (Thiele) near stat. Brilyg , and the Aare by an iron bridge 
 near stat. Bussivyl. 
 
 On the Aare, above stat. Lyss ^ is situated Aarhenj with an 
 ancient castle. Stat. Lubery, Schilpfen, and Zollikofen, the latter 
 a station on the Swiss Central ( Bale-Herzogenbuchsee-Bern) line. 
 Hence to Bern see p. 13. 
 
 3. From Bale to Geneva by Neuchatel. 
 
 162 M. Swiss Central and Western Railway. To Geneva by 
 express in 9, by ordinary trains in 11 hrs. Fares: 27 fr. GO c, 19 fr. 65 c, 
 14 fr. 30 c. The equally short route by Bern and Lausanne (K. 41) is far 
 preferable. At Olteii (p. S) passengers generally change carriages and are 
 detained '(i hr. (Steamboats on the lakes of Neuchatel and Geneva see RK- 
 46, 50.) 
 
 On leaving the station, a view is obtained to the 1. of the 
 vine-clad hills of Grenzach beyond the Rhine. The line crosses 
 the Birs (view of the valley) and skirts the picturesque and 
 wooded slopes of the Jura. Stat. Muttenz; beyond stat. Pratteln, 
 the ruins of the castle of Schduenburg are seen on a rocky eminence 
 to the r. On the Rhine, at some distance 1. of the line, lies Basel- 
 Augst (p. 18); beyond it rise the lofty mountains of the Black Forest. 
 
 Here the line leaves the valley of the Rhine, and enters that 
 of the Ergolz in the Jura. Beautiful points of view as far as 
 Olton. Nieder-Schonthid is the stat. for Frenkendorf, a charming 
 village on a hill to the r., much frequented on account of its 
 salubrious air. As Liesthal is approached, the large Cantonal 
 Hospital i6 seen to the 1. 
 
 Liesthal (1024') l^'Falke, SchlllsselJ on the Ergolz, with 3873
 
 8 Route 3. OLTEN. From Hale 
 
 inhab. (495 Rom. Cath.J, i:i the seat ol' the government of the 
 half-canton Bale-Campagne. In the oouncil-hall is exliibited the 
 <-up of Charles the Bold, found in his tent after the battle of 
 Nancy. Before reaching Sissacli (1233') (Lowe), a small town of 
 some importance, the train passes (r.J the small castle of Eben- 
 rain and its park. Fine view from the Sissacher FLuh (2303'), 
 3 M. to the E. of the town. (From Sissach to Aarau by the 
 Schafmatt see p. 15.) 
 
 After passing stat. Sommerau and Laufelfingen (12G3'j, the 
 train enters the great tunnel of Hauenstein, 8885' long, where 
 on May 28th, 1857. fifty-two workmen were buried by a fall ol' 
 earth, and eleven more perished in their efforts to rescue them. 
 As the train emerges from the tunnel, the ruins of the castle 
 of Neu-Wartburg are perceived. Farther on, to the r. of the latter, a 
 beautiful glimpse of the Bernese Alps is obtained, gradually be- 
 coming visible from the "NV'etterhorn to the Doldenhorn. The 
 line now descends by a long curve to the Aare, which it crosses 
 at a considerable distance below Olten, and then ascends to the 
 station on the r. bank. 
 
 At the summit of the Hauenstein. ascended in li'^ hi. from stat. Olten 
 and Laufelfingen, is situated the Frohburg (2772'), a good inn, command- 
 ing a beautiful panorama of the Alps , from the Sentis to Mont Blanc ^ 
 in the foreground is the Wartbiivy ^ and the valley which extends lo Lu- 
 cerne, traversed by the railroad; to the r. is Pilatus, to the 1. the Kigi. 
 'la M. distant are the ruins of a castle destroyed by an earthquake. | — 
 The traveller coming from the X., and visiting Switzerland for the first 
 time, would do well to leave the train at Laufelfingen, and proceed on 
 foot to Olten over the Frohburg : in fine weatlier the view of the Alpine 
 chain, wliich suddenly becomes visible from the summit of the mtmntain, 
 is strikingly beautiful. — About 2 hrs. farther W., on the summit of the 
 pass of the Obere Hauenstein , is situated the favourite Alpine sanitary 
 establishment Langenbvuck (good road thence to Liesthal). 
 
 Olten (1325') (Hotel de la Gare, at the station, E. 2 fr. ; ==Halb- 
 mond; ''Rail way -rest au rant. At Olten passengers to or from Lu- 
 cerne and Herzogenbuchsee-Bern change carriages: those from Bale to 
 Ziirich keep their seats. Detention of ij^ — ij^ hr. On leaving the waiting- 
 rooms the trains for Bale and Ziirich are to the left, those to Lucerne 
 and Bern to the right), second town of the canton of Soleure 
 (2998 inhab., 733 Prot.), prettily situated on the Aare. The 
 Parish Church possesses an 'Ascension' by Disteli, and the 
 Capuchin Church a Madonna by Deschxoanden. Extensive rail- 
 way work-shops and considerable shoe-manufactories are situated 
 here. Railway by Aarau to Zurich see R. 7. 
 
 To the S. of Olten, visible to the 1. of the line, rises the Wartburg 
 ('■JiestaKrant) , a small chateau recently restored, situated on an isolated 
 peak several hundred feet above the Aare. *View similar to that from the 
 Frohburg, and the ascent likewise recommended. From stat. Olten to the 
 top 3|4 hr. ; same distance from Aarburg. 
 
 On the height to the 1. is the cSiStle of Neu-Wartburg, a tine 
 point of view. The train next passes through a short tunnel under 
 the rook of the castle of Aarhura, and emerges at the station of
 
 to (iene<ui. UKRZCMiKMUCHSEK. li. Route. ^> 
 
 Aarburg (loKi') (Udr; Krone) ^ a small but wt-althy town, 
 ulniust entirely rebuilt since the lire of 1840. The pietnresque 
 old f-astle, formerly a fortress, built in 1660, and provided with 
 bomb-proof casemates hewn in the rock, was the residence of 
 the governors aiul a state-prison till 1798; it is now a house of 
 correction and arsenal. 
 
 To the 8.E. the Lucerne line diverires. Stations Medenryl, 
 MurgenthuL, Koyywyl, Lanyenthai {'''Lowe), a tlirivinjr villajre with 
 extensive traftic in wood, and Biitzhery. At Herzogenbuclisee 
 (Hotel du Soleil; restaurant at the back of the station), where 
 the line diverges to Bern (p. 13), a change of carriages generally 
 takes place. }5eyond Sublyen the line crosses the Urosse Eimne 
 not far from its confluence with the Aare. Above .Soleure, to 
 the r. , rises the inn on the Weissenstein (p. 11); to the 1.. a 
 panorama of the Bernese Alps. Before entering the station the 
 Aare is crossed. 
 
 Soleure, see p. 10. 
 
 The train next passes stat. Seizuch, G'renc/ien (Lowe ; Traube). 
 a village where watches are manufactured, and Pieterlen. 
 
 Bienne see p. 7. 
 
 Near the handsome avenues to the S.K. of this town, the 
 train reaches the Lake of Bienne (U'24'). lOi/o M. long, '2V4 M. 
 wide, greatest depth 200', ■]' lower than the lake of Neuchatel. 
 with which it is connected by the Zihl. This river again emerges 
 from the lake of Bienne at Aidau, a village situated on the E. 
 bank. The train skirts the X.W. bank of the lake; the delight- 
 ful view thus afforded the traveller is enhanced in clear weather 
 by the snowy summits of the Alps, which, as the train proceeds 
 towards Neuchatel. become visible from the mountains of Unter- 
 walden to Mont Blanc. 
 
 Beyond stat. 2'u?ann, Fr. Doiumne (Bar), is a picturesque 
 waterfall; this is the best point for visiting the Isle of St. Peter 
 (1568'), situated a little more to the S., opposite Liyerz an. I 
 Chuvanne (Kreuz), two villages, at which boats may be pro- 
 cured for the purpose. The islaiul, which is '^1^ M. from the 
 N.W. and l^/o M. from the >S.AV. bank, rises perpendicularly 
 from the lake on the N. and "NV. sides. These sides are shaded by 
 handsome and venerable oaks, and present a most picturesque 
 aspect. The S. side, which is a gradual slope, is covered with 
 vineyards and orchards. On the E. side, near the bank, is seen 
 the small liouse (inn) wliich was occupied by Rousseau for two 
 months in 1765, after his compulsory departure from Motiers- 
 Travers(p. 171). He was prohibited by the government of Bern 
 from longer enjoying his new retreat. The room of the great 
 philosopher is preserved in the same state as at the time of his 
 stay on the island, and the walls are as usual inscribed with tlie 
 names nf tluuisaiids of visitors. It i- to the somewhat exaggerated
 
 10 Route 4. SOLEURE. 
 
 description of liousscau that the Isle of St. Peter and the Lake 
 of Biennc owe their reputation. 
 
 Neuveville (1784'), the next station (Faucon, or Paste j *Cuu- 
 ronne at the S. end, with a fine view of the lake and Alps), is 
 a smiling little town, the first place where French is spoken. 
 To the 8. of the town, on a lieight, are seen the ruins of Schloss- 
 bery, in the neighbourhood of which is a picturesque cascade of 
 the Beonbach. Diligence to Freiburg by Ins, see p. 1G3. 
 
 To the r. of Xeuveville rises the Chas'seral (5282') in three terraces, 
 and is studded on the S. side by numerous villages and verdant meadows. 
 The view from the summit (ascent 31)2 hrs.), like that from the Weissen- 
 stein (p. 11), embraces a lai-ge part of Eastern Switzerland, the Black 
 Forest, the Vosges, and the Alps. About ^\-> hr. from the summit arc seve- 
 ral chalets, where accommodation may be had for the night if necessary. 
 The return may be made by Bienne, to which there is a road (IS'I,; W.). 
 The view is seen to the best advantage when the ascent is made on the 
 N. side from Courtdary (2382'), or from St. Imier in the valley of that 
 name (p. 6). — Cerlier, or Erlach (Ours), is situated opposite Neuveville at 
 the foot of one of the sandstone spurs of the Jolimont, a ridge of which 
 beneath the lake connects the mainland with the island of St. Peter. 
 
 Near stat. Landeron the railway quits the Lake of Bienne ; 
 the little town lies to the 1. Stat. Cressier, with its church on 
 the summit of a rock; then Cornaux. 
 
 On emerging from a tunnel, St. Blaise is reached, where the 
 train skirts the base of the mountain, and affords a view of the 
 entire Lake of Neuchatel, the N. extremity of which is here 
 reached, exactly opposite to the distant Mont Blanc. The train 
 runs at a great height above the lake (to the 1. below is the road), 
 and reaches the station of Neuch&tel, on the N.E. side of the 
 town, see p. 166. Hence to 
 
 Geneva, see R. 46. 
 
 4. Soleure and the Weissenstein. 
 
 Hotels. Couronnc, R. 2, B. 1, D. 3, A. 1,2 fr. ; Cert; Tour^ 
 Bargezi, near the station, also a restaurant. 
 
 Telegraph Office at the post-office. 
 
 Carriages to the Weissenstein, sec p. 12. 
 
 Soleure or Solothurn (1444'), a dull town with 7054 iiihab. 
 (1291 Prot.), situated on the Aare, is the capital of the canton 
 of Soleure and the residence of the Bishop of Bale. It was in- 
 corporated in the Confederation in 1481 ; with Treves it claims 
 to be the most ancient town on this side of the Alps ("in Celtis 
 nihil est Solodoro antiquius, unis exceptis Treviris^ quaruni ego dicta 
 soror', see p. 11). It is at least certain that the Salodurum of 
 the Romans was a most flourishing settlement. The ramparts, 
 planted with trees, afford an agreeable promenade. The Church 
 of St. Ours (St. Ursusmi'msterJ, cathedral of the Bishopric of Bale, 
 was built in 1762 — 73 by the architect Pisconi of Ascona, 
 replacing an older edifice of 1050. A flight of 33 steps leads 
 to the fa(;ade between two fountains, one of which is adorned 
 with a statue of Moses striking the rock, the other with a figure
 
 SOLKLKK. 4. Route. 11 
 
 of Gideon wringing tlu; dew Ironi the sheepskin. Of the ten 
 large altar-pieces, executed by painters of tlic second half of the 
 last century, none merit inspection. 
 
 The *Arsenal, in the neighbourhood of the cathedral, con- 
 tains ancient armour, halberds, pikes, and standards, taken in the 
 battles of the Confederates with Austria, burgundy, &c. On the 
 second story, when the door is opened, an automaton placed as 
 a sentinel presents arms and turns his head. In the upper story, 
 a very curious group represents the reconciliation of the Con- 
 federates effected at the Diet of Stans (p. 90) by Nicholas von 
 der Fliie, after a design of iJisteli (d. 1844). 
 
 The most ancient building in JSoleure is tlie Clock Tower, 
 although little reliance can be placed on the Inscription (p. 10) 
 whidi carries it back to tlic 4th cent. B. C. The figures and 
 mechanism of tlie clock are similar to tliose at Bern (p. 94j. 
 
 Under the portico of the HuteL de Ville, as well as in the 
 Public Library arc some Roman antiquities. The Museum of 
 Natural History, in the orphan-house near the bridge, is rich 
 in minerals and fossils. 
 
 In the Bieler Strasse, Nr. 5, near the post-office, the 
 illustrious Polish exile Koscziusko (d. 1811) passed the last years 
 of his life. His heart was interred at Zuchwyi, 'Y4 M. 8.E. of 
 Soleure, on the r. bark of the Aare. A simple monument, 
 shaded by weeping willows, bears this inscription: ^Viscera 
 Thaddaei Koscziusko'. His remains rest near those of Sobieski 
 and Poniatowski in the Cathedral of Cracow. 
 
 At Soleure the 'Postheiri', or Swiss Charivari, is published. 
 
 The *Weissenstein (4209'), 3 hrs. to the N. of Soleure, 
 is one of the most frequented mountains in Switzerland, and 
 well merits its repute. On the summit an *HoteI with 'Dc- 
 pendance' (K. ly.,^ B- !> ''^- 2, pension 4 fr.) is much frequen- 
 ted , and also employed as a whey-cure establisliment. On Sa- 
 turdays, in fine weather, the hotel is generally crowded. 
 
 The prospect is less pictiiresciiie tlian that from the Uii-i, though the 
 horizon is more extended ; hut from no spot can a hetter view he oh- 
 tained of the hm>: chain of the higher Alps fnmi the Tyrol to Mont lUanc. 
 Tt» the N E. are distinciuished the Sentis, the Oliirnisoh, with the Hiiii in 
 the forepronnd, the Tddi between the Rigi and Pilatus, the lofty summit 
 of Titlis, and the Snstenhorn ; then, beyond Soleure, the eye reaches to 
 the Wetterhorn and Schreckhorn, the Finsteraarhorn, the Eiger, the JItinch, 
 the Jungfrau, tlie Hliimlisalp, the Doldcnhoin, tlie Altels, Jlonte Rosa, and 
 still farther S. W. Jlont Hlanc. To the W. glitter the lakes of Hienne, 
 Morat, and Neuchatel ; the Aare winds to the S. through the fertile plains 
 like a silver thread, and the Grosse Emme flows into it at the foot of 
 the mountain. 
 
 The ''Hothe (4587'), V2 l»r. to the E. of the hotel, com- 
 mands a still more extensive view towards the N. and E., which 
 are hidden from the Weissenstein, and affords a good survey of 
 the picturesque motmtains and valleys of the Jura. A stoiu> liut 
 and a trigonometrical signal occupy the summit.
 
 12 Itoute 4. WEISSENSTEIN. 
 
 To tlie W. the view is roncealed by the '■■Hasenmatt (4754'). 
 This last point. Vi ^r. from the hotel, presents an uninter- 
 rupted panorama. Jt is unnecessary to return by the Weissen- 
 stein; leaving the summit on the N. side, the pedestrian may 
 descend its W. and 8. slopes, pass by Lommiswyl, and regain 
 Soleure, or the less distant station of Selzach (p. 9). Miinster 
 or Court in the Munsterthal (p. 6) may be reached in 2 hrs. 
 from the Hasenmatt. 
 
 Path from the W eiss en s t ein to the Munsterthal, see p. 6. 
 
 Routes from Soleure to the Weissens t e i n. — ist. Carriage- 
 road, iiassing by La/Kjendorf and Oberdorf (two-horse carriage for 3 pers. 
 20 fr., for 4 pers. 25 fr., driver's fee not included: if the carriage remains 
 during the night on the top, 5 fr. more: an omnibus generally runs daily 
 between Soleure and the Weissenstein, leaving the Couronne at 5 p. m.). 
 2nd. Foot-pat}) (guide or porter for luggage 5 fr., 3 fr. more if required 
 to pass the night on the summit, which is however unnecessary, as por- 
 ters may always be procured there), passing near the Einsiedelei (hermitagej, 
 by the Utiegenlos and Resi. By both these ways the Weissenstein may 
 easily be reached in 3 hrs. The foot-path is, however, much to be pre- 
 ferred: it passes by the cathedral of St. Ours, through the imposing Bale 
 gate, inclines to the 1. in the direction of the Villa of M. Cartier, where 
 it turns to the r., then to the 1. through the avenue, at the extremity 
 of which the r. must be again taken towards the church of St. Nicholas, 
 before reaching which, near ' Bargezi's Bretcery, the 'St. Verenathal is en- 
 tered to the 1. (1 M. from Soleure), a narrow, cool and shady ravine, 
 Jj'j M. in length. The path to the 1., at the commencement of the gorge, 
 leads to the Wengistein (see belowj. In the quarries of Portland limestone, 
 at the entrance of the valley, valuable fossils are frequently found. The 
 blocks of granite which are seen in the vicinity on the slopes of the moun- 
 tain, have been, according to geologists, brought here by the agency of 
 ancient Alpine glaciers which extended as far as the Jura. This gorge is 
 now converted into a promenade. 
 
 At the y. extremity of the ravine is the 'Hermitage of St. Verena, 
 to the r. the dwelling of the hermit : to the 1. the chapel, which is reached 
 hy a broad staircase : it is hewn in the rock, and contains a representation 
 of the holy sepulchre with life-size ligures. The traveller may now return 
 by the chapel of Ste. Croix, passing near some extensive marble quarries ; 
 after traversing the forest, the Wengistein is reached, the view from which 
 is similar to that from the Weissenstein, though on a smaller scale. A 
 huge granite boulder bears a Latin inscription recording two memorable 
 events in the history of Soleure. 
 
 From the hermitage to the base of the Jura, the footpath is uninter- 
 esting. For the remainder of the way the following directions will suffice. 
 
 Leaving the hermitage, the pedestrian crosses a meadow in the direc- 
 tion of the inn on the Weissenstein which lies before him; near some 
 cottages the high road is crossed, and the path ascends the hill, crossing 
 a brook and leading to another group of cottages. Passing between the 
 latter, the traveller leaves the stone cross to the r., and proceeds towards 
 the nearest pine-wood, on the borders of which he crosses a brook, and 
 (not to the r.) reaches a sign-post. A little higher in the wood a second 
 post is passed, and soon after, the base of a rugged precipice is gained 
 (1 hr. from the hermitage). The path is precipitous, but well-shaded. 
 An ascent of 3|4 hr. brings the traveller to a sharp projection of the rock, 
 after which he descends to the 1., reaching the Xesstlbodeu-Alj) in lOmiu., 
 where the footpath rejoins the vo&A. After an easy ascent of i|-.> hr. more, 
 the summit of the Weissenstein is attained.
 
 13 
 
 5. From Bale to Bern by Herzogenbuchsee. 
 
 67 M. Central Kailwav. lii o', ■.'—•') l"'^- I'"aiTs II t"r. 10. 7 IV. S(.>, 
 o fr. 60 0. Comp. Introd. X.' 
 
 From Bale to Herzoyenbuclisee see pp. 7 to 9. Near stat. 
 Kiedwyl the railway enters grassy valleys, enclosed by wooded 
 slopes. Then stat. Wyniyen. On issuing from a long tunnel 
 (transit 1 min.) the line crosses the (rrosse Kmme and reaches 
 the busy town of Burgdorf (lOlG'J, French Berthoud (*HoteL 
 (rugyisbery, near the station; Stadthaus; Bar), picturesquely 
 situated on an eminence. The houses arc for the most part 
 substantially built, and have arcades as at Bern; the public 
 edifices, the hospital, the schools, the Orphan Asylum, and the 
 public walks testify to the opulence and good taste of the inha- 
 bitants. In the castle of Burgdorf, Pestalozzi established his 
 celebrated educational institution in 1798, which in 1804 was 
 transferred to Mun<hen-Huchsee near llofwyl (sec below), and 
 afterwards in the same year to Yverdon (p. 173). Beautiful 
 views from the church and castle (Jungfrau, Miinch , Eiger), 
 and still more beautiful from the Luey , 4'/.2 M. to the N. E., 
 which commands the entire chain of the Alps. 
 
 Stations Lyssach, Hindelbank. Near stat. Schonbilhl., to the r., 
 stand the buildings of Hofwyl with their numerous windows, in 
 which Herr v. Fellenberg founded his agricultural and educa- 
 tional establishments, which formerly enjoyed a considerable 
 reputation. 
 
 Beyond stat. ZoUikofen. on the r., lies Rilete, formerly con- 
 nected with the above establishments, now an Agricultural In- 
 stitution. Farther on, a glimpse is obtained of the castle of 
 Keichenbach to the r., opposite to the N. extremity of the narrow 
 peninsula of f>nge (p. 97), and of the bridge of Tiefenau over 
 the Aare, constructed in 1851. The line then ascends for a few 
 minutes until it reaches the Wylerfeld (drilling ground), whence, 
 to the 1., a magnificent *view of the entire chain of the Bernese 
 Alps is enjoyed; farther on, to the r., is a new suburb inhabited 
 by workmen , after passing which the Aare is crossed and the 
 station of Bern reached. The ^Bridge is of a remarkable and 
 ingenious construction, and furnished with two roads, thc^ upper 
 tor railway, the lower for ordinary traffic. Bern see p. 9'2. 
 
 6. From Bale to Lucerne. 
 
 o9'J2 M. Central Kailwav. In S'i-..— 41(2 hrs. Fares 9 fr. 8;J. 6 fr. 
 95 c, 5 fr. Tlie trains corresiiond with steamboats from Lucerne to Wag:- 
 gis, Fluelen, etc. (see pp. 54 and 66). 
 
 From Bale to Aarbury see pp. 7, 8. Then stat. Zofingen 
 ('''RlissU; Oclts), a busy little town. Besides a collection of coins, 
 the library contains autograph letters of Swiss reformers, and 
 drawings by members of the Swiss society of artists, founded
 
 14 Route 7. SEMPACH. 
 
 In the year 1800, which formerly met annually at this town, 
 and on these occasions contributed to embellish the album of 
 the library. The Zofingen Union of Swiss students celebrates 
 the anniversary of its foundation here, to which the members 
 resort in great numbers from the Swiss universities. On the 
 branches of the fine old lime-trees near the Schiitzenhaus two 
 ball-rooms have been constructed. Beyond the town (1/4 M.) is 
 an ancient Roman Bath with a few Roman relics. The line 
 next passes through the broad Wiggernthal, with its rich 
 meadows. On an eminence near stat. Reiden stands an ancient 
 lodge of the knights of Malta, now a parsonage-house. 
 
 Between the stations of Nebikon and Wauwyl a view is ob- 
 tained to the r. of the Bernese snow-mountains; in the centre 
 the Jungfrau , to the 1. the Monch and Eiger, to the r. the 
 Altels. Beyond stat. Wauwyl, to the r., lies the little Mauensee 
 with its island and small castle. 
 
 Sursee (Sonne; Hir^ch), an old town, over the gates of 
 which the double eagle of the house of Hapsburg is still en- 
 throned. The Town Hall reminds one of the Burgundian style of 
 architecture. Near stat. Nottwyl the line approaches the Lake 
 of Sempach (1663 ft.), 6 M. long, and 2'/2 M. broad, and abound- 
 ing in fish ; it is , however , more remarkable for its historical 
 associations than the beauty of its scenery. At the S. extremity 
 of the lake, on an eminence to the r., stands the castle of 
 Wartensee, with its angular gables and red tower. 
 
 At the S.E. extremity of the lake, lies the small town of 
 Sempach (Kreuz; AdlerJ, near which Duke Leopold of Austria 
 was signally defeated, July 8th, 1386, by the Swiss Confederates, 
 owing to the noble self- sacrifice of Arnold von Winkelried. 
 Thousands of his knights and adherents were slain. 
 
 A Chapel (2064'), IIJ2 M. from Sempach, stands upon the spot where 
 Leopold, nephew of the Duke Leopold who had been conquered by the 
 Swiss 71 years before at Morgarten (p. 301), perished. 
 
 The line intersects plantations of firs. A view is obtained 
 of the precipitous cliffs and peaks of Pilatus ; to the 1. the long 
 ridge of the Rigi. Then stat. Rothenburg. After passing stat. 
 Emmenbrucke the line skirts the bank of the Reuss, whose eme- 
 rald waters emerge from the lake of Lucerne, passes through a 
 tunnel under the rock of Gibraltar (p. 50) , and reaches by a 
 long curve the Lucerne station , on the 1. bank of the lake. 
 Lucerne see p. 49. Steamboats to Waggis and Fliielen see p. 66. 
 
 7. From Bale to Zurich by Olten. 
 
 G4 M. Central and North Eastern Railways. In 3'|-j— 4'|-.. hrs. 
 Fares 10 fr. To, 7 fr. 55, 5 fr. 40 c. Railway from Bale to Ziirich by 
 Waldshut and Turgi, see p. 17. 
 
 From Bale to Olten see pp. 7, 8. On leaving Olten the line 
 runs by the side of the Aare as far as its confluence with the
 
 AAKAU. 7 Route. 15 
 
 Limmat near Bnigg, and commands many pleasing prospects. To 
 the 1. the wooded chain of the Jura remains in view. 
 
 Stat. Danikon. Opposite stat. Srhonemcerth stands the oastle 
 of GlJsgen with its ruined tower, whicli until 1801 was the seat 
 of the authorities of Soleure. The line passes under the town 
 of Aarau by a tunnel. 
 
 Aarau (1200') (*Ochs, R. l'/.,, R. 1, D. 21/2 fr. ; *Storch), a 
 manufacturing town, capital of the Canton of Aargau, with 5449 
 inhab. (904 Uom. Cath.J, is situated on the Aare (which is crossed 
 by a suspension bridge, constructed in 1850), at the foot of the 
 Jura mountains, here partially covered with vines. New Tbum 
 Hall and Barracks. The historian Heinrich Zschokke (b. at Mag- 
 deburg 1771 , d. 1848) formerly resided here. The cutlery 
 manufactured at Aarau is highly esteemed. 
 
 From Sissach to Aarau by the Schafmatt, 10 M. By diligence 
 to Oltingen in l^lx hr., by {Uj-z M.) Gelterkinden (1371') ('Rossli), a manu- 
 facturing village ; thence through a picturesque vallev to the Hanggiessen 
 waterfall; (I'l-j M.) Teclnati (1440'); to (li(.^ M.) WensUngen (18(K)') a steep 
 ascent; {\.^^^ 31.) Oltingen (Ochs). The path which ascends the (l^-j M.) 
 Schafmatt (2516') diverges close to the 'Ochs\ and cannot be mistaken, 
 being provided with numerous direction-posts. The summit commands 
 an extensive panorama of the Jura mountains and the Alps, as far as the 
 deep valley of Rohr. Here turning to the 1. the upper part of a meadow 
 is reached, at the foot of which (l'|2 M. from the summit) lies a chalet and 
 whey-cure establishment. The spectator here has a prospect of the lake 
 of Lucerne with its environs, the Rigi, Pilatus, etc. before him, bounded 
 on either side by the mountains between which he stands. From the 
 chalet to Aarau in 1 hr. by Oher- and Nieder-Erlinshach. 
 
 To the N. of Aarau rises the Wa^serfluh (2851'), and to the 
 N.E. the GisUfluh (2539'), over which a footpath leads from 
 Aarau to the Baths of Schinznach, commanding a pleasing view 
 of the lakes of Hallwyl and Baldeck. 
 
 On the 1. as the train proceeds, beyond the Aare, at the 
 foot of the Gislifluh, lies Biberstein, with an old castle , formerly 
 a lodge of the knights of St. John. Next stat. liupperschwyl, 
 where the line again approaches the Aare. To the r. is Schloss 
 Lenzhurg. Stat. W'ddeyg, with a castle of the same name pictu- 
 resquely situated on the slope of the Wiilpelsberg, possesses a 
 mineral spring, the water of which is used for exportation only. 
 This is the station nearest to the hydropathic estab. of Bresten- 
 berg, situated 71/2 M. to the S. on the lake of Hallwyl (proprie- 
 tor Dr. Erismann, pension 5 fr.). On an eminence on the 
 opposite bank of the Aare stands the castle of WiUienstein. Stat. 
 Schinznach lies halfway between the village of ScJiinznach (124G'), 
 on the 1. bank of the Aare, and the Baths of Schinznach, close 
 to which the line passes (*Hotel with 450 beds and 200 baths; 
 table d'hote at 1; omnibus to and from the station, I72 M. 
 distant; physicians Dr. Hemmann and Dr. Amsler). These baths, 
 also called the Baths of Hapsburg , are highly impregnated with 
 sulphur, and are much resorted to by the French.
 
 16 Route 7. BADEX. From Bale 
 
 Tlic l.aths lie ;it Uu" (n,>l ,,f the Wiilpclsberr/ (1830'), on the summit cf 
 which (20 mill, walk) slanrt the ruins of the castle of "Habsburg, the cradle 
 of the imperial family of Austria, erected by Count Radbod von Alten- 
 burji about the year 1020. Only the lofty wails of the tower. 8' in thick- 
 ness, now remain. The adjoining house is occupied by the custodian. The 
 view embraces the entire domain of the ancient counts of Hapsburg, and 
 the valleys of the Aare, the Reuss, and the Limmat, bounded on the S. by 
 the snow-clad Alps. 
 
 Brugg (ii'28'). or Brack (''"Rossli ; ^Rothes Haus), a small 
 town. I'ormerly tlie seat of Kudolph of Hapsburg. A pleasina 
 view of the antiquated town may be obtained from the bridge 
 which spans the Aare, here only 70' wide. The 'Black Tower" 
 ( Sclnvarze Thurm) dates from the later Roman Empire, and was 
 restored in the early part of the loth cent. At a short distance 
 N.E. of the town, three of the chief rivers of Switzerland, the 
 Aarc\ the Reuss, and the Limmat, unite their streams, and fall 
 into the Rhine at Koblenz (p. 19). 9 M. to the N. 
 
 The ancient Abbey of Konigsfelden [^/^ :\r. to the 8.E. of 
 Brugg), formerly a convent of Minorites, was founded in 1310 
 by the Empress Elizabeth and her daughter. Queen Agnes of 
 Hungary, on the spot where Albert of Austria, husband of the 
 former, had been murdered two years before (1308) by John of 
 Swabia and his accomplices. 
 
 The abbey was secularised in 15Q8; the building was con- 
 verted into a hospital, and afterwards a lunatic asylum. A por- 
 tion of the church now serves as a magazine, but divine service 
 is still celebrated in the choir. The *stained-glass window-, 
 opposite the door, dating from the 14th cent., represent V.u- 
 nuptials of Agnes, the foundress of the abbey, with the king of 
 Hungary, and the ceremony of her taking the veil. The numerous 
 portraits of knights who fell at Sempach (p. 14). are of the last 
 century. Duke Leopold himself with 60 of these warriors is hero 
 interred. The doorkeeper, who shows the church (fee i/o fr.). 
 offers Roman coins and Anticaglias for sale. 
 
 On the tongue of land fonned by the Reuss and the Aare stood in 
 ancient times the considerable Helvetian town of Vindonissa, where 
 during the early centuries of the Christian era a Roman legion and th-- 
 RhfPtian cohorts were posted, as is proved by inscriptions still e.vtant. 
 The position of the amphitheatre is easily recognisable: the well of the 
 convent of Konigsfelden is fed to this day' by a subterranean Roman con 
 duit. The town was destroyed in the 5th cent., and no trace now remain^ 
 of its extensive edifices. The name still survives in that of the village 
 of Wiiidisr/i, 1,'.., M. to the E. of Brugg. Vindonissa was afterwards the- 
 seat of a bishop, which was however transferred to Constance in i(>39. 
 
 The line crosses the Reuss at its confluence with the Aare 
 and reaches stat. Turgi, the junction where the Baden line to 
 Waldshut diverges (see p. 19). The Ziirich line approaches the 
 Limmat and remains on its 1. bank. The precipitous banks of 
 the river are clad with vines. 
 
 Baden (r2o3') (Balance; Lion; Ours, R. 172- B. 1. D. '2i/2' 
 A. 1/2 fJ'- Hotel Balinhof) was much resorted to by the Romans
 
 to Zurich. DIKTIKUN. -V. Route. 17 
 
 ill early times tor the sake of its mineral springs. Its ancient 
 n^me was Aquae. In the time of Nero, according to Tacitus 
 (Hist. I. 67), it had all the appearance of a town (Hn modum 
 inunicipii exstructus locus ^ amoeno salubrium aquarum usu fre- 
 quens'). In the middle ages Baden was a fortress, and frequently 
 the residence of the princes of Hapsburg, Albert having resided 
 here (1308) before his assassination. The extensive ruins of the 
 fortress Stein zu Baden (1506'), destroyed in 1712, rise above 
 the town; the grounds command a tine view. 
 
 The hot springs (,98"— I26o Fahr.) (1151'), are situated in a valley near 
 the railway station, 3|^ M. to the X. of the town. The '■Small Baths^ 
 (Ennetbdder), on the r. bank of the Limmat are chiefly frequented hy the 
 inhabitants of the neighbourhood; the 'Great Baths' (Ilotels : Stadthof, of 
 the first class ; Schiff, Liinmathof, Scliweizer Hof^ Verenaho/, "Freihof, etc.), 
 on the r. bank, are patronised by the more fashionable world. The Verena 
 Bath is the principal public establishment. The bridge aflord.s the best 
 view of the banks of the river. Baden is annually visited by 15,000 patients 
 and travellers. 
 
 The line now passes through a short tunnel under the Stein 
 5<« Baden (see above). On the 1., surrounded by the Limmat, 
 stand the extensive buildings and gardens of the former Cister- 
 cian Abbey of Wettingen (1200'), now a seminary. The church 
 contains the sarcophagus of the Emperor Albert (p. 16), whose 
 body reposed in it for 15 months, after which it was conveyed 
 to Speyer. The stained-glass windows are of the 16th and 17th 
 centuries, the carved stalls of the 17th. The handsome building 
 to the 1. , on the slope of the Lcigerngebirg (2828'), a hill with 
 a long and sharp ridge , formerly contained the wine-press of 
 the Abbey. 
 
 The line now passes stat. Killwangen., and enters the canton 
 
 of Ziirich near Dietikon (1286') (Lowe). At this town Massena 
 
 made his celebrated passage of the Limmat, Sept. 24th, 1799, 
 
 after which he repulsed the Russians and took Ziirich. Next 
 
 stations Scldieren and Altstetten. Near Ziirich the long ridge of 
 
 the Uetli with its inn (p. 31) becomes visible; on the E. side 
 
 it is very precipitous. The large building on the slope to the 
 
 1. is the Weid (p. 27). The whole line from Brugg to Zurich 
 
 ( 11/.2 hr.) presents a series of interesting landscapes, especially 
 
 the neighbourhood of Ziirich, where the distant Alps on the 
 
 and the Albisriicken, terminating towards the N. in the Uetli, 
 
 lie into view. The heights in the environs of Ziirich are 
 
 •jiikled with country-houses. Before entering the railway sta- 
 
 n the line crosses the Sihl. Ziirich^ see p. 26. 
 
 I. From Bale to Ziirich by Waldshut and Turgi. 
 
 eSi's M. Baden Kuilwav (to Waldshut) and Swiss North 
 I. astern, in 3 — 4 hrs. ; fares 5 tl., 3 ll. 21, 2(1. 26 kr. — The seats on 
 the right as far as Turgi are to be preferred. 
 
 Baden station, see p. 16. The line traverses the narrow, fruit- 
 B.EUEKKK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 2
 
 18 Route 8. WALDSHUT. 
 
 ful plain between the S. spurs of the Black Forest and the valley 
 of the Rhine, which is here of considerable depth. The first 
 station is Grenzach, where an excellent wine, hardly inferior to 
 'Markgrafler' is produced ; next stat. WyJden. At stat. Rheinfelden 
 the line approaches the Rhine, which here rushes impetuously 
 over its rocky bed; the 1. bank is precipitous and well wooded. 
 
 Rheinfelden (866') (*Zu7n Sokutzen; * Krone), a Swiss town 
 on the 1. bank, is built on the ruins of the ancient Roman 
 station Augusta Rauracorum, destroyed by barbarian invaders. It 
 was founded by Munatius Plancus (see p. 1) during the reign 
 of the Emperor Augustus, and originally stood on the site of the 
 village of Basel- Augst, 3 M. distant. Rheinfelden was in an- 
 cient times strongly fortified, and was one of the frontier-forts 
 of the Holy Roman Empire. It was repeatedly besieged, and 
 was at last taken and razed to the ground by the French in 
 1744. Since 1801 it has belonged to Switzerland. The cele- 
 brated generals of the Thirty Years' War, Bernhard von Weimar 
 and Johann von Worth, fought many battles under its walls du- 
 ring the spring of 1638, with varying fortunes. The foaming 
 stream here dashes over the rocks, and forms the so-called 
 HoUenhaken rapids. Near the town are extensive salt-works and 
 salt-baths, which attract numerous visitors (*Struve's bath-estab., 
 pension 4 — 6 fr.). 
 
 The line intersects the vineyards and gardens of Beuggen 
 (909'J, formerly a lodge of the Teutonic order, a handsome build- 
 ing with numerous windows. Since 1817 it has been employed 
 as a Seminary and Reformatory for children. Brennet^ which is 
 next reached, is the station for the * Wehrastrasse (see Bcpdeker's 
 Rhine and N. Germany^, a gorge which bears some resemblance 
 to the Via Mala. 
 
 Stat. Sackingen (958') (Bad or Lowe), a considerable town, 
 possessing an old abbey-church with two towers. The abbey, 
 subseqiiently a nunnery, was secularised in the early part of 
 the present century. 
 
 Next stat. Murg (1027') at the mouth of the Murg , and 
 Klein- Lauffenburg, opposite to which, picturesquely placed on the 
 1. bank, stands the Swiss town of Lauffenburg (Post), with its 
 ancient castle , where the Rhine dashes impetuously over its 
 narrow and rocky bed. Below the cataract (the ^Lauffen^, of 
 which a glimpse is obtained from the train, salmon are caught 
 in large numbers. 
 
 The line penetrates the mountain by a tunnel , and reaches 
 stat. Luttingen (1036') and Hauenstein, crossing some lofty via- 
 ducts. It occasionally approaches the river. Then stat. Albbruck 
 (1017') and Dogern (1040'). 
 
 Waldshut (Rebstock), the most important of these small towns 
 on the Rhine, is situated at a considerable height above the river.
 
 f Zx- J(ti^ 
 
 
 "^ flfrr*^* 
 
 „r,j^^^ 
 
 X.
 
 ■SOttAFFHAUSEN. 9. Route. J 9 
 
 About 10 M. to the N. of Waldsliut, on the high road to St. Blasien 
 (post-omnibus daily), is situated Hochenschwand (Orhs) (3314'), the highest 
 village in the IJlack Forest, whence a magnificent prospect of the Alps is 
 olitained. Comp. liaedeker's Rhine and N. Oermany. 
 
 The Swiss Junction Railway crosses the Rhine below stat. 
 Koblenz (1033'), near the influx of the Aare^ passes in a long 
 curve through a tunnel, and approaches the Aare near Klinynau. 
 The river remains visible only as far as stat. D'oltinyen. After 
 Sigijenlluil is passed, the llahshunj ^ which stands on a wooded 
 liill to the r. (see p. 16j, becomes visible. The line crosses 
 the Limmat near its confluence with the Aare. At Turgi (p. lOj 
 carriages are changed for those of the North Eastern Railway. 
 
 From Turgi to Zurich, see R. 7. 
 
 9. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance. 
 
 9n|8 M. Baden Railway in 5 hrs. ; fares to SchalThauscn 3 11. 54, 
 2 11. 39, 1 11. 42 kr. •, to Constance 5 fl. 57, 4 fl. 3, 2 fl. 3G kr. Ncuhausen is 
 the station for the Falls of the Rhine (comp. R. 11). Seats on the rigfit 
 to be preferred. — Steamboat from Schalfhausen to Constance in 4 — 5 
 hours, returning in 3 hrs. •, scenery picturesque, but the ascent by steam- 
 boat is tedious. 
 
 From Bale to AValdshut see pp. 17, 18. Beyond Waldshut 
 the train passes through a tunnel, beyond which occasional 
 glimpses of the Alps are obtained. To the r. diverges the Swiss 
 line to Turgi (see above). Beyond stat. Thiengen (Krone) the 
 ancient Klettgau is traversed. Near stat. Oberlauchringen the 
 Wutach is crossed. To the r., on a wooded eminence, the castle 
 of Kilssenberg. Next stat. Griessen, Erzingen, Wilchingen, the 
 flrst village in the canton of Schaffhausen, Neunkirch, Beringen, 
 and Neuhausen (Hotel Rheinfall), station for the Falls of the Rhine 
 (comp. however p. 23). Hotels see p. 23. 
 
 Schaffhausen (1296') (*Krone, R. I'/o, B. I1/4 fr. ; Post; 
 Schifjf; Lijwe; Jiiese, small J, capital of the canton of that name 
 (p©p. 10,303, 1600 Rom. Cath.), still retains the picturesque me- 
 diieval aspect of the Swabian cities of the (iermanic Empire. The 
 best view of the town is obtained from the village of Feuerthalen, 
 on the opp. bank of the Rhine, which is crossed by two bridges. 
 
 The Cathedral, a basilica in the early Romanesque style, 
 founded in 1104, completed in 1453, formerly an abbey-church, 
 is remarkable for the massiveness of its construction. Portions 
 of the cloisters are in a good state of preservation , and the in- 
 terior of tlie church has lately been restored in harmony with the 
 original style. The great bell, cast in 1486, bears the inscrip- 
 tion : Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango, which suggested 
 to Schiller the idea of liis beautiful ^Lied von der Glocke'. Tl»e 
 Church of St. John dates from 1120. 
 
 The castle of Munoth (Munitio?), erected during the great 
 famine of 1 5(54, in order to afford support to tlu; indigent, com- 
 mands the town. It consists of a round tower of several stories, 
 
 2*
 
 20 Route y. KADOLPHSZELL. 
 
 which with the aJjoining building is believed tu date I'runi the 
 15th cent., although frequently added to in more modern times. 
 
 The Library (Biiryer-Bibliotliek) contains nothing worthy of 
 mention , except a collection of books and MSS. of the eminent 
 Swiss historian Johann v. Miiller (b. at Schaifhausen in 1752, 
 d. at Cassel in 1809). to whose memory his fellow-citizens have 
 erected a monument on the Vesenstaub promenade; the terrace 
 towards the Rhine affords a beautiful view of the rapids and the 
 Alps. — The ImtJiurneum, erected and presented to the town 
 by ]\I. Imthurn , a citizen of Schaffhausen . contains a handsome 
 theatre, concert-rooms, etc. 
 
 Beyond Schaffhausen the line turns towards the N.E. Stat. 
 Herblingen, Thayingen, Gottmadingen, and Singen (*Krone). 
 
 Branch-Railway hence (in i|4 hr., fares 31, 24, 15 kr.), skirting: 
 the E. .sloiies of the Hdhgau, by stat. Miihlhausen and Welschingen, to Engcii 
 (comp. Baedeker's Southern Genuanii). 
 
 About 2 31. to the X. W. ( 1.) of Singen, on an isolated basaltic rock, 
 rises the fortress of Hohentwiel (—44'), the ]n-operty of the Wiirtemherf: 
 srovernnient, although in tlie Bavarian dominions. It was hraveh and 
 >iuccessfnl]y defended liy the Wiirleniberg commandant in tlie Thirty Years" 
 War. Tlie grand ruins command a fine prospect of the Tyrolese and Swi.-s 
 Alps as far as 31<mt Blanc. At the farm (refreshments), half-way up, a 
 lickef of admission (Tikr.) to the tower must be procured. 
 
 The line then passes stat. Kickelshausen and reaches Radolplis- 
 zell (Post), an ancient town, whose walls, gates, and handsome 
 (lothic church date from 1436. situated on the L'ntersee. 
 
 In the middle of the lake lies the island of Reichenau, in the dominions 
 of Baden. 33)4 M. long, I'l-j M. wide, connected witli (he E. bank by an 
 embankment, 3|4 31. in length. The Benedictine Abbey erected on the island 
 was secularised in 1799. The church, consecrated as early as 8(J6, contains 
 the remains of Cliarlcs the Fat, the great-grandson of Charleniagne. who was 
 dethroned in 887. The building now serves as pari.sh church for the neigh 
 liouring village of ^filld:eU or Jfiliif/er (Krone). The tower and nave belong 
 to the original structure. The church was once richly endowed, l)ut fell 
 to decay in the 14th cent. With the exception of a few relics in the 
 sacristy, it now exhibits few traces of its great antiquity. 
 
 The line now skirts the lake, and passes stat. Markel^ngen, 
 AUeiisbdcli, and Ueichenau ; r. tite islaiul of Reichenau (see above). 
 The train then ero.-ses the Rhino, and stops at Constance (p. '21). 
 
 10. From Friedrichshafen (Rorschach) to Constance. 
 Lake of Constance. 
 
 Steamboat to Constance 3 times daily in summer (direct, or i\v 
 Romanshorn or Meerslnng) in l'|2 to 2 hrs. Between the chief places on 
 the lake. Friedrichshafen, Lindaii, Bregenz, Rorschach, Ixomanfhorn, Con 
 stance ( Schajfhausin), Meersburg, Uebcrlingen, Ludwigshafen, the st<;am 
 l>oats (about 24 in number) ply at least once daily, and on the chief routes 
 (Friedrich.sha fen-Constance in I'jahr., Friedrichshafen-Roman.<horn in 1 hr., 
 Friedrichshafen -Rorschach in l'i4 hr. . Constance - Romanshorn -Rorscharli 
 in 2 lirs.. Constance- Lindau in IIJ4 lir.), three or four times daily. Tln' 
 second cabin fare is ijsrd less than tJie lirst. The hours of starting are fre- 
 i|uently altered. On Sundays return -tickets are issued at reduced fares. 
 Comp. Introd. X. with regard to excursion-tickets. The lake of Constanci- 
 being neutral territory, the traveller is subjected to custom-house formal-
 
 
 >U.J^< 
 
 ^i^Sliri-* ^^'' 
 
 
 
 ,4 
 
 
 
 r
 
 FRIEDRICHSHAFEN. 10. Route. 21 
 
 itics even on quitting one German town for another, for instance from 
 Friodrich.sIiatVn or l.iiirtaii to Constance. 
 
 The Lake of Constance (1306') fOer. Bodensee, Lat. Lacu» Brigantinus)^ 
 an immense reservoir of the Rhine, 90 M. in circumference, is, from Bre- 
 genz to the influx of the Stockach, 42 M. long, about 8 31. wide, and between 
 Kriedrichshafen and Arbon 912' deep. The water is of a light green colour. 
 The lake forms the boundary of live difiercnt states: Baden, Wiirtemberg, 
 Bavaria, Austria (Vorarlberg), and Switzerland (St. Gall and Thurgau). — 
 Mefr.tfnn-ger is the t)est wine grown on its banks, and Felrhen and trout 
 the best lisli it produces. 
 
 The N. K. banks are in general flat, but are bounded on the S. W. by 
 beautiful wooded hills, which gradually decrease in height toward.s Con- 
 stance. In the l)eauty of its scenery the lake of Constance cannot vie with 
 its other Swiss rivals ; but its broad expanse of water, its picturesque banks, 
 and green hills, the chain of the Appenzell Alps in the distance, the snow- 
 clad Sentis in particular, and other snow-peaks of the Vorarlberg Alps, visible 
 in clear weather, iimibine to impress the traveller who visits Switzerland 
 for tlie lirst time with the most pleasurable sensations. 
 
 Friedrichshafen ( 13iy'J (I)eutsches Ha us, near the station, 
 11.48, B. oO, A. 15 kr. •, Hotel Bellevue, formerly Xestle., with garden 
 on the lake, halfway between the station and the quay; "Konig von 
 Wiirtemberg, 'J4 M. to the N. of the station-, Sonne; 'Krone, with 
 a small garden by the lake, of the second class ; Beer-garden ' Ziir Krone ■" 
 by the lake, with a beautiful view), the S. terminus of the Wiirtem- 
 berg line, is a busy town during the summer. Its lake-baths attract 
 many visitors, especially from 8wabia. The royal Schloss contains a 
 few pictures by modern Wiirtemberg artists. Gegenbauer, Pflug, 
 &c.; from a pavilion in the garden of the Schloss. which is 
 open to the public (closed for a few hours daily during the resi- 
 dence of the royal family) a very beautiful view of the lake and 
 the Alps is obtained. The harbour, about i M. distant from the 
 railway station, presents an animated scene. 
 
 Travellers about to proceed by steamboat without stoppage are con- 
 veyed from the railway station to the quay by a branch line; those also 
 who arrive by steamer may take their tickets immediately on landing, and 
 enter the railway-carriages at once. 
 
 Durii»g the passage of the steamer, if the weather is stormy, 
 the horrors of sea-sickness are not unfrequently encountered. To 
 the N., on an arm of the lake called the Veherlimier See, stands 
 the little town of Meersburg , in the dominions of Baden, with 
 an ancient and modern castle and seminary , picturesquely situ- 
 ated at a considerable height above the lake. Farther on, the 
 little island of Mainau (p. '23). Farther towards the N. lies 
 UeberLingen, with lake and mineral-water-baths. The boat next 
 passes tlie promontory which separates the I'eberlinger See from 
 the bay of Constance, and reaches Constance, after a passage of 
 11/2 l»r. (By Romanshorn see p. 23.) 
 
 Constance. -Hecht, R. 1 11., D. 1 fl. 45, B. 3G, A. 2i kr. ; Adler, 
 similar charges; ^Badischer Hof. — Krone and Schiff, second cl. 
 — The extensive Sicimining-I''stal>lishme>it in the lake is well lifted up. — 
 Swiss telegr. stat. at Kreuzlingen (p. 23), ^\\ M. from the S. gate, where the 
 Pension Helvetia is also situated (4—5 fr. per day). 
 
 Constance (133r)'), a free town till the year 1548, and after 
 the Reformation subject to Austria, has now a population of 
 10.0rV2 ( 1'200 Prot.). though it once numbered as many as 40.000.
 
 22 Route 10. CONSTANCE. 
 
 It is situated at the N.W. extremity of the lake, at the i)oint 
 where the Rhine emerges. The episcopal see, over which 87 
 bishops in succession held jurisdiction, was secularised in 1802. 
 Three years later, at the treaty of Pressburg, Constance was 
 adjudged to Baden. 
 
 The *Cai/jedrai, founded in 1048, was rebuilt in its present 
 form at the beginning of the 16th cent. The Gothic tower was 
 erected in 1850 — 1857; the spire, perforated like that of Frei- 
 burg cathedral, is of light grey sandstone, and has a platform 
 on either side. A short stay in Constance will be best employed 
 in visiting the cathedral and ascending the tower (*view). 
 
 On the doors of the principal portal are 'Bas-Keliefs in 2() scction.s, 
 represontinp scenes from the life of Christ, carved in oak by Sim. Baider 
 in 1470. The * Choir Stalls with protesquc sculptures, are of the same 
 dale. The organ -loft, richly ornamented in the Renaissance style, dates 
 tVom 16S0. In the nave, the arches fif which are supported l>y 16 mono- 
 lithic pillars (48' high, 3' thick), sixteen paces from the principal entrance, 
 is a large stone slah , a white spot on which always remains dry when 
 the leniaining portion is damp. Huss is said to have stood on tliis spot 
 when the Council of July Glh, 1415, sentenced him to be burnt at the 
 stake. In the S. chapel near the choir an Interment of Christ in high 
 relief; in the N. chapel a Death of the Virgin, coloured stone figures 
 life siy,e, date 1460. — The Treasury contains missals embellished with 
 miniatures, date 1426. On the E. side of the church is a crypt, C(mtaining 
 the Chapel of the Hfily Sepulchre, with a representation of the 
 sepulchre in stone, 20' high. On the exterior of the N. side are still to 
 lie seen two aisles of the cloister, from which a good idea of the richness 
 of tlie architecture may be formed. The sacristan shows the whole of 
 Ihe cathedral (fee 24 krV), but the door ftn the S. side is usually open. 
 
 The Church of St. Stepheiiy a pure Gothic building near the 
 <afh('dral, of the 14th cent., contains some interesting wood-carving. 
 
 Farther S. in the street, in a small square, stands an ancient 
 Ituilding with arcades, styled by the inscription Curia Pads, in 
 which the Emperor Frederick I. concluded peace with the Lom- 
 bard towns in 1183. 
 
 The ancient Dominican Convent^ in which Huss was confined, 
 is situated on an island in the lake close to the tawn. It is now 
 employed as a manufactory. The railway from Constance to Schaff- 
 liauscn and Waldshut intersects the N. extremity of this island. 
 
 The ' Wessenherij-Haus' contains a collection of books, pictures, 
 and engravings, bequeathed to the town by the proprietor. — 
 The Town-Hall ('Stadt-Kanzlei'), erected in 1503 in the Re- 
 naissance style and recently decorated on the exterior with fres- 
 coes illustrative of the history of Constance, contains in the lower 
 rooms the Archives, with numerous documents especially from the 
 Reformation down to 15'24. 
 
 The Merchanis' Hall on the lake, erected in 1388, contains 
 the '■Cone ilium s-Saal\ a large room said to have been occupied 
 by the Great Council (1414 — 1418) and decorated with modern 
 frescoes illustrative of the history of the town (fee 6 kr.^. Upstairs 
 a small collection of objects from India and China, the private 
 property of the castellan (0 kr. ).
 
 FALLS OK TIIK ICIIINK // limile. *23 
 
 Tlie house in which lluss was arrested, the second to the r. 
 of the Schnetzthor, bears his efttgy sculptured in stone, dating 
 from the 16th cent. Immediately after his arrival he was placed 
 in conllnement in a Franciscan cloister. In a field to the W. of 
 the suburb of Briilil is the spot where the illustrious reformer 
 and Jerome of Prague suffered martyrdom, indicated by a huge 
 mass of rock with inscriptions. 
 
 The abbey of Kreuzlinyen (Hotel Helvetia, see abovej, 3/^ M . 
 beyond the 8. gate, is now employed as a school ; curious carved 
 wood-work: the Passion, with about 1000 small figures executed 
 by Tyrolese masters in the last cent.; a mitre, adorned with 
 pearls, presented by Pope John XXII. on the evening before his 
 entry into Constance, is also shown. 
 
 Ill tlie N.W. arm of the I.akc of Con.stancc (Ueberlinger See, p. 21), 
 3'|.; M. from Constance, is situated tlie beautiful island of "'Mainau, tV)r- 
 nifily tiie seat of a lodge of the Teutonic ortler, as is indicated by a cross 
 on the S. side of the castle. Tlie island, I'j.- M. in circumference, is con- 
 nected with the mainland by a bridge 050 paces in length. Since 1853 it 
 has been the property of the Grand-Duke of Haden. Beautiful grounds rise 
 aliove the lake. Comfortable Inn. 
 
 From Rorschaclt (p. 37) to Constance (2 hrs.^. The 
 steamboat skirts the bank, passing //oni (p. 38) and Arbon (Yax- 
 gel; Kreiiz), a small town on the site of the Ivoman .4r/jor Fe//.r, 
 aud enters the \vax\)o\\v oi Itomanshorn {^. "dX). The conspicuous 
 building rising above the woods of the N. bank is Heiligenbery 
 (1170' above the lake), the beautiful chateau of the Prince of 
 Fiirstenberg. On the 1. bank Scldoss Giittingen is next passed ; 
 tlien tlie former monastery of Mun sterling en, now a hospital and 
 lunatic asylum. Constance with its numerous towers is a con- 
 spicuous object in the distance. Near the town is perceived the 
 former abbey of Kreuzlimjen (see above). 
 
 The Railway from Korschach to Constance (in I'jj hr. ; 4 fr. 25, 
 3 fr., 2 fr. 15 c.) skirts the bank of the lake, alVording pleasant glimpses of 
 its glittering surface. Stat. Norn (p. 38), Arbon (sec above), Egnach, 
 Jiomans/iorn (p. 34; the rail. stat. is close to the pier); farther on, Utttcyl^ 
 Kesswyl, GiUlingen-, Altnau., Miinsterlingen, Kreuzlingen (to the 1. the abbey, 
 see above), Constance (p. 21). 
 
 11. The Falls of the Rhine. 
 
 Hotels. On the hill (Ull/) on the r. bank : S ch w e iz e rhof ; -Belle- 
 v u e •- in both K. from 2','.;, D. 3 — 4, A. 1 fr. •, omnibuses from both are in 
 waiting at the steamboat-pier at Schaflliausen, fare l'|i fr. Hotel Rhein- 
 fall at Neuhausen (p. 25), R. 1—2, B. 1, D. 2 fr. — On the left bank above 
 the Falls: 'Hotel Schloss Laufen; omnibus to the Dachsen station and 
 steanibdat-pier at Schafthausen. *Hotel Witzig, unpretending, R. l'i'> 
 B. 1. 1). 2'|,., L. and A. ^j^ fr., at stat. Dachsen, 3|4 31. from the Falls. 
 
 English Church Service in the Scluveizerhof. 
 
 Travellers from Bale to SchatVhausen may alight at stat. Neuhausen, 
 whence the Falls may be reached in a few minutes. In order, however, 
 to preclude the possibility of disappointment, they should invariably be 
 approached on the --left bank. The traveller is therefore strongly recom- 
 mended to continue his journey to SchatVhausen, and proceed thence by 
 the North Eastern line to stat. Dachsen (in 10 min. , fares 50, 35, 25 c.j.
 
 24 Route 11. FALLS OF THE RHINE. 
 
 3J4 M. to the S. of (the Falls (omnibus to the Falls and back 1 fr.). Or ho 
 may prefer to walk direct from Schatfhausen to Laufen, a distance of 2 31. 
 
 The following walk will occupy about 2 hrs. : from Dachsen to Schloss 
 Laufen, the Fischetz, over the bridge to Neuhausen and the Schlosschen 
 AViirth (to Stat. Xeuhausen ^n M.), whence the traveller may avail himself 
 of the ferry (3(.) c.) to Schloss Laufen. It is, however, preferable to proceed 
 by a level and shady footpath (on emerging from the wood, a fine view 
 is obtained of the Falls to the 1.) to the village of Xohl (ij-.^ 3!.), there cross 
 (lOc.) to the opp. bank, and ascend ('(4 M.) to the village of Dachsen. 
 
 *Schloss laufen (1361 'J, picturesquely situated on a wooded 
 rock on tlie L bank, immediately above the Falls, is the point from 
 which this celebrated cataract is viewed to the best advantage. The 
 owner, by virtue of a contract with the government of Ziirich 
 (to which canton Schloss Laufen belongs), is authorised to de- 
 mand an entrance-fee of 1 fr. from every foreigner, and 60 cent, 
 from every Swiss who visits the castle (no additional gratuities). 
 
 In order fully to appreciate the grandeur of the spectacle, 
 the visitor should descend from the castle to the ^Fischetz, a 
 wooden gallery which projects over the foaming abyss. The view 
 from this point is impressive in the extreme : the huge falling 
 volume of water can even be reached by the hand, whilst the 
 spectator, removed from all danger, is bedewed by the spray. 
 
 From the Fischetz the visitor ascends through the grounds, 
 pausing at the different points of view (e. g. the *Kdnz€lf), until 
 he reaches the summer-house with stained -glass windows, and 
 finally the handsome, new apartments on the first floor of the 
 chateau, the balcony of which affords a last survey of the Falls, 
 the bridge, and the environs. For an additional fee of 1/2 ^^• 
 the tourist may once more view the whole scene in the Camera 
 Obscura. 
 
 In June and July the volume of water is greatly increased 
 by the melting of the snow. During sunshine innumerable 
 rainbows tinge the clouds of silvery spray which rise from the 
 gulf. The view by moonlight is also strikingly impressive, and 
 the traveller is therefore recommended to spend a night at the 
 Falls, or at Dachsen, in preference to SchatThausen. (The Falls 
 are frequently illuminated during the summer.) 
 
 The breadth of the Rhine above the Falls is 880'; their 
 height is about 50' on the r. bank, and 64' on the 1., the differ- 
 ence being occasioned by the unequal height of the ridge over 
 which the river precipitates itself; if the rapids, the whirlpools, 
 and the falls a few hundred paces higher up be taken into account, 
 the total height of the cataract may be estimated at nearly 100' 
 (level of the Rhine above the falls 1260', below 1181'). 
 
 Of the four limestone -rocks which rise from the cataract, one third 
 of that nearest to the 1. bank has been worn away by the action of the 
 water; the centre rock is surmounted by a miniature tent. When viewed 
 from below, the rocks seem to tremble and waver. From the Schlosschen 
 of Worth (see below), when the water is at its average height, the visitor 
 may be conveyed in a boat to the central rock, and, by ascending it, ob- 
 tain a view of the Falls from the most favourable point. This excursion,
 
 FALLS OF THE IIULNE. II. Route. 25 
 
 which (inly occupies a few minutes, is entirely unattended witli danger, 
 though the agitated waters cause considerable motion to tlie boat. Pare 
 for 1 to 3 pers. 3 fr. and boatman's fee; for each additional person 1 fr. 
 These rocks have undergone no change within the memory of man, but a 
 decrease in the volume of the Rhine has been observed at Schatl'hausen of 
 late years. It is remarkal)le that no mention of this cataiact is made by 
 ancient writers, from which it is inferred by some tliat the Khine may 
 have changed its cour.se, and that the present fall dates from the middle 
 ages only (V). 
 
 After having surveyed the falls from the different points of 
 view at the castle of Laufen, the visitor on leaving should de- 
 scend to the 1., at the sign-post indicating the way to Schloss 
 Laufen, to the *l>ridge across the falls (RheinfaUbriicke), over 
 which the railway from SchalThausen to Ztirich (see below) passes. 
 The arches vary in width of span , in consequeiue of the diffi- 
 culty of obtaining a foundation for the piers. The upper side 
 of the bridge is provided with a foot-way, which affords a re- 
 markable view of the rocky bed of the river, the rapids, and the 
 falls below. 
 
 On the r. bank a good footpath, leading to the 1. from the 
 bridge, ascends at a considerable elevation above the Rhine (tine 
 view of the falLs), to the extensive railway-carriage manufactory 
 near Neuhausen (Hotel Rheinfall). Here the visitor may descend 
 the stair on the 1. to the parapet near the sluices, whence another 
 good view of the falls is obtained. Then descending to the r. by 
 the road past the ironworks, and following the path by the Rhine 
 (a bench by the path is another picturesque *point of view, 
 by some preferred to Schloss Laufen), he will reach the Schliiss- 
 ehen Worth (Inn: camera obscura 75 cejit.), a i^quare tower on 
 an island opposite the falls, connected with the r. bank by a 
 bridge. If the traveller now a.-cend the terrace of the Schxceizer- 
 hof (at Stat. Neuhausen), 230' above the water on the r. bank of 
 the Rhine, he will enjoy a prospect of the entire chain of the Alps, 
 together with the Falls and their environs; the Bernese Alps to the 
 r. (Omnibus to the railway stat. at Schaffhausen, fare I'/.ifr.) 
 
 12. From Schaffhausen to Ztirich. 
 
 Coinp. ^f^lJl.< pp. 2i>^ :>S. 
 
 Bv the .Swiss North Eastern Kailwav in i Ins. ( lo Winlerthur 
 1 hr., to Zurich 1 hr. ). Fares G fr., 4 fr. 'i<)c.. 3 fr. View of the Falls on 
 the right. 
 
 The line skirts the lower end of the Vesenstaub (p. 20) pro- 
 menade, and passes umler the castle of Charlottenfels . built by 
 a wealthy clockmaker of Schaffhausen. On the r. , considerably 
 higher than the Ziirich line, is the railway to Waldshut (R. H), 
 which passes through a tunnel, nW' long, under Charlottenfels. 
 The train to Zurich, immediately after passing through the long 
 cutting, crosses the Bridge orer the Falls (see above), BHO' long, and 
 supported by nine arches of from 4'2' to fio' span. A glimpse 
 is obtained of the falls to the r. , and the tunnel, 213' long.
 
 26 Route 13. ZURICH. 
 
 under SchLoss Lauftn (p. 24) is then entered. On emerging, 
 the train commands another beautiful, but momentary retrospect 
 of the falls. 
 
 The train stops at stat. Dachsen (1296') (see p. 23), 3/4 M. 
 from Schloss Laufen. Farther on, pleasing views present them- 
 selves at intervals of the bluish-green Rhine, as it flows far below 
 in its narrow bed, enclosed by lofty wooded baidcs. 
 
 The following stat. is Marthalen. The valley of Andelfingen 
 soon begins to open^ and the handsome village is visible in the 
 distance to the r. , on the precipitous banks of the Thur. The 
 train approaches it by a wide curve, and crosses the Thur above 
 the village, by a suspension bridge, 115' long. It then skirts 
 the river for a short distance and arrives at Andelfingen on the 
 S. side. 
 
 The remainder of the route to Winterthur is less interesting, 
 although the scenery is still picturesque. The next stations arc 
 Henygart and Hettlinyen. The vine-dad slopes of Neftenbarh, to 
 the r., produce the best wines of N. Switzerland; among others 
 Gallenspitz is particularly esteemed. On approaching Winterthur 
 the broad valley of the Toss is entered. 
 
 Winterthur, and thence to Zurich, see p. 34. Change of 
 carriages. 
 
 13. Zurich and the Uetliberg. 
 
 Hotels. Hotel vt Pen h ion Uaur an Lac (PI. a), charmingly 
 situated on the banks of the lake, well cunducted, with garden, hath.s, and 
 reading-room adjoining, R. 3 — 6 fr., B. I'l^ fr., D. exc. W. at 1 o'cl. 4'|2 fr., 
 at 4 o'cl. 5 fr., A. 1 fr. •, Pension 8 fr. and upwards. ■B cllevu c (PI. d) 
 on the lake, opposite the Bauschanze, similar charges, also commanding a 
 tine view. Hotel Ziesing-Baur (PI. b), in the town, more moderate; 
 • Schwert (PI. c), by the lower bridge, view of the Alps, R.2— 3, B. 1— I'ji, 
 A. 3J4, L. ij.fr.; -Zu richer Hof (PI. e), opposite the Bellevuc, R. 2 fr. ; 
 S torch (PI. f), newly fitted up, R. li|o, B. 1 fr. ; Falke (PI. g), between 
 the lake and the post-ofticc, R. 2, B. 1>(4, A. ^j-^ fr. ; Schweizerhof 
 (PL i), on the r. bank of the Limmat below the second bridge, E. 2, D. 3fr. ; 
 Scheller and Rossli near the Ziiricher Hof; Schwarzer Adlcr, of 
 humble pretcnsiim. Visitors are received at all these establishments in 
 spring and autumn en pension. — Then ''Pension Neptun at Seefeld, 
 near Zurich, new, 5')2 — 6 fr. per day ; "Hotel et Pension Cygne(Pl. h) 
 on the Miihknbach, well situated, pleasant garden, 5'|-2 fr. a day; Weiss es 
 K r e u z , 4 — 5 fr. a day. — Biirgli Terrace and W e i d see below. R i n - 
 derknecht, at Fluntern, iJja M. E. of Zurich; K aro 1 inenbur g, 3|4 M. 
 higher. Palmhof, at Oberstrass, a short distance N. of the Polytechnic, 
 view of the valley of the Limmat. Dinner-hour usually 12. 30. 
 
 The inn on the Uetliberg, a charming point of view, also aflbrds 
 tolerable accommodation. 
 
 Restaurants etc. At the hotels Baur, Bellevue, and Z ii r i c h e r h o f. 
 ' Saf ran, opposite the Rathhaus; Kronenhalle, above the Ziiricherhof ; 
 Cafe Litter aire, adjoining the Storch, table d'hote at 12. 3(); Bau- 
 garten, see below; Rail. Restaurant; Cafe du Nord and Altes 
 Schiitzenha us, near the station. — Ices at Spriingli's near the Baur 
 Hotel and post -office. — Beer: Brunner, in the Frau - Bliinsterplatz ; 
 Gambrinus, Schofelgasse ; at the Bollerei, on the quay; Strohhof, 
 at the back of St. Peter's; Tonhalle, on the lake, etc. —'VultelUna Wine 
 at the V e 1 1 1 i n e r h a 1 1 e,
 
 ZVliU'M I'i. liouU 2/ 
 
 Points of View. In tho town, the Haufiarten, hc-lonctint; to a private 
 society, straiitxers readily admitted. Garden (restaurant) at (H>er.stras.s, 
 fine view, open-air theatre. Tlie -Hiir-rli Terrace (with Pension) '|2 Ji- 
 nn the road to the Uetliberg; the *Weid on the Kalert)erjr , 3 M. to the 
 N.W. of the town (pension 3— .7 fr.); the -Uetlibcrg (p. 31), 2 hrs. walk 
 to the S.W. of the town. 
 
 Newspapers at the Museum (PI. 20), in a detached liousc on the ripht 
 bank of the Limniat ; stran-ters provided with an introduction are admitted 
 {gratis for 1 month from 9 a. m. to 10 p. m. 
 
 Baths in the lake (for ladies also) near the Bauschanze, admirably 
 lifted up; bath 15c., towel etc. 20 c, private room 40 c. Another estab. 
 at the 8. end of the town, on the E. bank of the lake. Warm Baths 
 (IJussiau etc.) at =Stocker\s in the Jliihlgarten. 
 
 Rowing-boats 30 c. per hour; larjie boat with awninj; I fr. ; each rower 
 00 e. \Hv lidiii-: ferrv to steamer 10 c, lu^igape 10 c. 
 
 Meiiirs Zooi>la$tif .Uuseiim, Stadelhofsplatz (1 fr.), line pnuips of stufled 
 animals. >Siimmer T/naIre at Oberstrass, see above. — Fanorama of the 
 Rhji in the suburb Enge, sec p. 32. 
 
 Steamboats (see p. 38) start from the Bauschanze (p. 31), the .screw- 
 steam. rs iVom the Bellevue Hotel. These smaller ves.><els ply at lower fares 
 al()n^' the S. bank only, and do not proceed beyond Kichterswyl. 
 
 Railway Station at the lower (N.) end of the town, :'|4 M. from the 
 steamboat wharf. Omnibus 50 c, each box 20 c. ; other onmibuses every 
 •|- hr. to the Seefeld and Tiefenbrunnen, on the S. side of the town. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 23) opposite the Hotel Baur; branch- 
 oflicc iiv tlie new museum. 
 
 Carriages to or from the station 1—2 pers. 80 c., 3—4 pcrs. I fr. 20 c., 
 each box 20 c, in the evening 20 c. extra for the lamps; from 9 p. ra. to 
 6 a. m. the fares are doubled. Carriages with fixed charges stand by the 
 Hotel Baur, the Bellevue, &c. ; to Weid 1—2 pers. 3 fr., 3—4 pers. 4 fr. 50c.; 
 All.isgiilli (at the foot of the Uetliberg ) 3— 4 fr. ; Hockler, whence the 
 Telliberg may conveniently be ascended, 2 fr. 40 c. or 3 fr. 60 c.; Nidelbad 
 ( |.. 39) 3 fr. oV 4 fr. .50 c. ; Thalwvl 3 fr. or 4 fr. 50 c. ; llorgen 5 fr. or 7 fr. ; 
 Tnleralhis 5 fr. or 7 fr. ; Oberalbis 6 fr. 50 c. or 9 fr. For a two-h(nse 
 carriage the fare is the same as for 3 — 4 per.sons with one horse. 
 
 English Church Service in the Chapel of St. Anna (p. 30). 
 
 Principal Attractions. Those whose time is limited should 
 proceed from the Munster bridcc (p. 28) to the Gross- Miinsler (p. 29), 
 throu-ih the adjacent Cloistns to the Jlo/ie I'ruiiniiade (p. 29), then de.^^cend 
 )n the lake, take the ferry at the Bellevue Hotel \n [he Jiai<sc/uiiizc (p. 31), 
 and thence, passing the Hotel Baur au Lac, proceed to the Botaiiiial (lar- 
 Ji'iis and the ' Kalz (p. 30). The ascent of the Uvtlibcrg (p. 31) should then 
 be made, and the night passed on the summit. 
 
 Zurich (13510^ tho Komaii Turicum, is the chief tONvn of 
 tlie Canton, with '21,1'.'*.) iuluabitants (3377 Rom. Cath.), or, iii- 
 (lu.liiis the suburbs, 45,000. It is situated at the N. extremity 
 of the lake, on the banks of the preen and rapid Limmat 
 whicli divides it into t\vo distinct parts, the ' Large to^vn on 
 the r. and the 'Small' on tlie 1. — On the W. side flows the 
 Slid which unites with the Liinniat immediately below the town. 
 Ziiricli is the most flourishing manufacturing Swiss town (silk 
 and cotton manufactories; there are 10,000 silk -looms in this 
 (anton), and at the same time the centre of German Switzer- 
 land in a literary point of view. Its schools enjoy a high reputation, 
 and have for many centuries sent forth men of distinction : 
 Bodmer, Sulzer. Hettinger, (^relli, Gessner, Lavater. Hess, I'esta- 
 lozzi, llegner, Horner, Henry Hirzel , Henry Meyer the friend id" 
 Goethe, and uiaiiy others. In 183*2 a College was foutuled ('200
 
 28 Route 13. ZURICH. Town Hall. 
 
 students, half of wlioni are medical ). and in 1855 a Polytechnic 
 School, both under the direction of an excellent staff of professors. 
 
 The Situation of Zurich is unrivalled. Both sides of the lake 
 are enlivened v* ith villages, orchards, and vineyards, scattered over a highly 
 cultivated country :, in the background rise the snow-capped Alps ; to the l". 
 is the ridge of the Glarnisc/i, then the perpendicular sides of the Reisclt- 
 utock (9203'), near it on the r. the P/annstock, farther on, the Dnmberg 
 (like a winding staircase); next the snow-clad Rifertenstock and Tikli ; in 
 front the Clariden, the most W. point of which is the Kammlistork (1(),G07'); 
 between this and the double-peaked Scheevhovn is imbedded a vast glacier ; 
 then on the X. side of the SrhiichenthaJ the Ross- Stock-chain with grotesquely- 
 formed horns -, the broad Winclgelle ; between this and the Scheerhorn ap- 
 pears the dark summit of the Mythen near Schwyz : above the valley, be- 
 tween the Kaiserstock and Rossberg^ towers the pointed pyramid of the 
 Brisienstock near Amstag on the St. Gotthard-route ; then, if the spectator 
 occupies a commanding position, the Blackenstock and rri-Rotfistock, and a 
 portion of the snow-mountains of the Engelberger Thai , appear above the 
 Albis. To the right of the Albis is the Ueiliberg, the most N. point of 
 this range, with the hotel on its summit. 
 
 As the beauty of its situation is the great attraction of Zurich, a plan 
 is here proposed, which will enable the traveller to visit the finest points 
 and chief objects of interest in the shortest possible time, leaving the 
 selection to his discretion. The Gross- Milnsie}' (or Cathedral) with its 
 cloisters (see below), the Toic}i Library (see below), and the Armoun/ 
 in the old arsenal (p. 31) are near the hotels, and the only objects of par- 
 ticular interest in the town. Xo one should omit to visit the Terrace in 
 front of the Polytechnic, the Hohe Promenade, the Katz, the Bauschanze, 
 and the grounds near the bathing houses on the promenade by the lake, 
 as the views from these several points are charming. 
 
 From the station the new Bahnhofs-Strasse, a broad street 
 planted with trees , leads directly to the lake . intersecting the 
 entire quarter of the town between the Limmat and the Sihl. 
 
 As a starting point may be taken the handsome four -arched 
 Mi'i.nster-Bridge (the highest), which commands a beautiful view 
 of the lake and Alps. Close to the bridge on the right bank 
 of the Limmat, is an open vestibule leading to the Town Li- 
 brary (PL 3). Admission obtained on application at the shop 
 on the r. This building was formerly used as a church (1479), 
 and known by the name of the Waaserkirche., from its having once 
 stood in the water; in the year 1860 it was considerably enlarged, 
 and now contains many valuable M8S. 
 
 A letter of Zicingli to his wife; Zwingli's Greek Bible with Hebrew 
 annotations in his own handwriting; an autograph letter of Henry IV. of 
 France; three autograph Latin letters of the unfortunate Ladu Jane Grey 
 to Antistes Bullinger; a letter of Frederick the Great, dated 1784, to 
 Professor Miiller; Portrait of the worthies of Zurich, amongst others of 
 Zwingli ; a marble liust of Lavater by Danneckcr; a marble bust of 
 Pcstalozzi by Imhof ; eight panes of stained glass of the year 1506. Large 
 Relief-maps of a portion of Switzerland, and of the Engelberger Thai on 
 a much larger scale, both executed with great care and accuracy, are worthy 
 of note. (Fee 1 fr., for a party 2 fr.) 
 
 The same building contains the Antiquities belonging to the 
 Antiquarian Society. The principal object of interest is a col- 
 lection of relics of the ancient Swiss lake-villages. 
 
 The Town Hall (PL 30) near the bridge, on the r. bank
 
 Hohe Promenade. Zl KICII. Li. Route. "iD 
 
 opposite to the .Scliwcit hotel, coiistiueted in IGSD, according to 
 the architecture of that period, presents nothing worthy of note. 
 — Below the bridge is the new Museum, opposite the flesh-market. 
 
 The steps opposite to the vestibule in front of the Library, 
 lead to the Gross-Miinster (PI. 18), erected in the unadorned 
 Komanesque style of tlie Uth to the 13th cent. In the year 
 1779 the towers were crowned with helmet-shaped ornaments 
 surmounted by gilded flowers. On the AV. tower Charlemagne is 
 seated with gilded crown and sword, in recognition of donations 
 made by him to the church. Tlie choir contains three large 
 stained-glass windows representing Christ, fr^t. Peter, and St. Paul. 
 
 On the site of the ancient residence of the canons now stands 
 a school (Tijchterschule), the *Cloister8 within the precincts of 
 which date from the commencement of the 13th cent. They 
 liave been restored , and the fountain adorned with a statue of 
 ( liarlemagne. 
 
 The traveller now descends the street by the Tilchterschule 
 (m the point where the Limmat emerges from the lake, passes 
 the Bellevue Hotel, and again mounts a steep ascent to the 1. 
 leading to the ''Hohe Promenade (PI. 13), an avenue of lime- 
 trees. Magniticent view (morning-light most favourable) from 
 the plateau in whi<h the Monument of Hans deory Ncigeli (6. 
 1836) fPI. 10) is erected, with a bust of this celebrated vocal 
 composer: 'ro?? den sclnrcizeri^clien Sanyervereinen ihrem Vater 
 XdyeW. 
 
 From the N. extremity of the Promenade a path, skirting the 
 N. side of the cemetery, leads to the high road to Winterthur. 
 ascending which for a short distance, the traveller reaches the 
 Cantonal Schools (PI. 7) on the 1., a handsome edifice, com- 
 prising a gramnijir and a commercial >chool. Farther on in 
 the same direction, the Cantonal Hospital (PI. (3) on the r., 
 ;'iid the adjoining School of Anatomy are attained; to the 1. on 
 the slope of the hill is an AftyUnn for the blind and dumb 
 (PI. 4); lower down to the 1. the Hall of Art (V\. '21), con- 
 taining some good modern pictures by Ludwig Hess. Diday and 
 Koller, and the handsome ^Polytechnic (PI. '28). erected 1861 — 64, 
 the terrace in front of which commands one of the finest views of 
 the town and lake. Descending to the 1. beyond the Polytechnic, 
 the traveller next reaches the garden of the Deanery of St. Leonard 
 ( Pfrundhaus. PI. '2'2). a large building on the slope of the hill, 
 now an asylum for aged and destitute persons. The garden- 
 terrace, to which the public arc admitted, affords a survey of the 
 valley of the Limmat and the railway to Baden. Returning to 
 the road and passing the Pfrundhaus, the traveller takes the first 
 >trcet to the I. and then descends by a flight of steps. The 
 smoking chimneys and confused din intimate that the maniifac- 
 luring quarter of Ziirich is now entered. Among the most
 
 30 Route 13. ;iURlCH. Lindenhof. 
 
 remarkable factories may be mentioned that of the engineers 
 Escher, Wyss., and Co., who have constructed most of the steam- 
 boats which navigate the Swiss and Italian lakes, as well as 
 many of those on the Danube and Black Sea. The traveller 
 now reaches the railway station by a substantial new bridge, 
 completed in 1864. 
 
 The long avenue of handsome trees, to the N. of the railway station, 
 .skirting the banks of the Liinmat, alVords a cool and pleasant walk. It 
 terminates in a point of land called the 'Platzspitz' (so named from the 
 former Schiitzenplatz), which is formed by the junction of the river aS/7*/ 
 (generally very shallow in summer) with the Limmat. A flying bridge 
 (5 cent. ) crosses to the beer -garden Dra/iisrJuniedli on the r. bank of the 
 Limmat, the pleasantest route to the "Weid ( p. 21). Half-way between the 
 gas-mauufactory and the Platzspitz stands the simple monument and bust 
 of the poet S'alomo Gessner (d. 1788), whose favourite resort was the 
 'Platzi)V{)nienade\ 
 
 Near the centre of the town rises the Lindenhof (PL 23), 
 situated 115' above the Limmat, in ancient times a Celtic settle- 
 ment, then a Roman station, later an imperial palace, where in 
 the 9th and 10th cent, a public court of judicature was held. 
 The Gothic Free-Masons' Lodge was erected on the S.E. side 
 in 1851. 
 
 Descending on the S. side by the street to the r. , the tra- 
 veller arrives at the Augustine Church (PL 16), used for three 
 hundred years as a magazine, but in 1848 restored to its origi- 
 nal use as a Rom. Cath. place of a worship, and now a model 
 of simplicity and good taste. The two Pictures over the side 
 altars, 'Christ on the mount of Olives', and 'the Risen Saviour" 
 by Deschwanden, are able works ; the high altar, pulpit, and organ 
 are also worthy of mention. Adjoining the S. side of the church 
 is the former Augustine monastery. A little farther to the S.E. 
 is St. Peter's Church (PL 19), of which the excellent Lavater 
 (d. 1801) was pastor for 23 years. 
 
 N.W. of the Roman Cath. church, on the opposite side of the Bahnhofs- 
 strasse, is the old Cemetery, adjoining the Chapel of St. Anjia, in which 
 English Church Service is performed during the season. Here rests 
 Lavater; an upright stone by the E. wall marks his grave. The remains 
 of Ebel , the author of an admirable work on Switzerland (b. 17(>4 at 
 Ziillichau, d. 1830), and Escher ron der Linth, the constructor of the Escher 
 canal ( p. 42), are also interred here. 
 
 From the Bahnhofs-Strasse the traveller, following the Pelican- 
 Strasse, arrives at the Botanical Garden (PL 5), containing 
 800 Alpine plants, and busts of De Candolle (d. 1841) and 
 Conrad Gessner (d. 1565), executed in bronze. Here rises a 
 bastion of the old fortress known as the *Katz, forming an ele- 
 vated platform planted with lime-trees, and commanding a splen- 
 did view of the town, lake, Alps, and valley of the Limmat. 
 
 On leaving the botanical gardens, the traveller should cross 
 the canal bridge ('Schanzengraben', formerly a moat) to the r., 
 follow the bank till he reaches the next bridge, then passing the 
 'Falke" hotel descend by the street to the r. to the Hotel Baur
 
 Vetliberg. ;5URICH. 13. Route. 31 
 
 a\i Lac. Passing the bath-houses (between which a pleasing 
 glimpse of the lake) he will arrive at the *Bauschanze, a small 
 pentagonal island, surrounded by walls (fornuTly a bastion), 
 shaded by thick foliage, and connected with the land by a bridge, 
 similar to the Ronsseau-lsland at Geneva, and commanding a 
 beautiful view of the lake an<l Alps. The steamboats stop here. 
 
 Adjacent to the Miinster-bridge , on the 1. bank, rises the 
 Frau-Munster church (PI. 17), erected in the 13th cent, and 
 distinguished by its lofty red spire. The Post-office (PI. '29) is 
 immediately beyond it. 
 
 A Collection of Ancient Armour is exhibited in the gloomy, 
 insignilicant Arsenal (PI. od). on the S. side of St. Peter's 
 church; it contains battle-axes, armour, flags, and cross-bows, 
 among which is one of the many which claim the distinction of 
 having belonged to Tell. Zxvingli's BatUe-(i.re, which was taken 
 by the inhabitants of Lucerne in the battle of Kappel (p. 83) 
 was first placed in the arsenal of that city, but at the con- 
 clusion of the war in 1S47 was transferred hither, together with 
 his sword, coat of mail, and helmet. A supply of new weapons 
 for the militia is also kept here. 
 
 At the close of the last century, Ziirich was witness of two sanguin- 
 ary contests in its neighbourhood; the actions on the 2nd and 3rd of June, 
 1799, at Wytikon and ZolUkon (p. 39) between the Austrians under the 
 command of the Archduke Charles, and the French under Massena; and tho.se 
 on the 26th and 2Tth of Sept., 1799, between the Russians commanded by 
 Korsakof, and the French under Massena. The latter army, after having 
 effeeted the passage of the river l)y Dietikon (p. 17), surrounded the heights 
 to the N. of Zurich, especially the Kdferbevg and the Ziirichberfj , wliich 
 the high road to Schafl'hausen now traverses, and entirely cut off the right 
 wing of the Russian troops, thus disabling the greater portion of the army, 
 and compelling them to retreat to Eglisau and Winterfhur. 
 
 The *UetUberg. 
 The Vetliberg ('28()4' above the level of the sea, and 15*25' 
 above the Lake of Ziirich) (*Hotel see p. 26; carriage to Albis- 
 giitli, at the foot of the Uetliberg, 3 — 4 fr.), the most N. point 
 of the Albis range, 4'/2 -^1- from Ziirich, will of all the neighbouring 
 mountains best repay the fatigue of the ascent. The view may 
 be surpassed in grandeur, but not in loveliness, by those from 
 heights nearer the Alps. It embraces the lake of Ziirich, the 
 valley of the Limmat, the Alpine range from the Sentis to the 
 Jnngfrau, the Stockhorn on the lake of Thun. in the foreground 
 the Rigi and Pilatus, and W. the Jura chain from the Chasseral 
 on the Lake of Hienne, to its termination near Aarau. over which 
 appear the summits of some of tlie Vosges mountains, among 
 others the Ballon ; the Feldberg and Belchen in the Black Forest 
 are also visible, and tlie volcanic cones of the llohgau, Iloheu- 
 twiel, Hohenhiiwen, and Ilohenstoffeln. On the opposite bank of 
 the Reuss stands the Benedictine Ahhexj of Muri, the front of 
 which is 750' in length ; it was secularised by the governuu-nt of
 
 32 Route 13. UETLIBERG. 
 
 Aargau in 1841, and is now used as a school; by morning light 
 it is most distinctly visible. Baden with its old castle (p. 16) 
 is an equally conspicuous object. 
 
 The Route to the L'etliberf/ (2 hrs.) leads W. through the suburb 
 Emje (a good Panorama of the Riyi is exhibited here; admission 
 on Sund., Wed., and Frid. 1 fr., on other days IV2 If-)' '^^'here the 
 telegraph wires diverge to the 1., it pursues a straight direction ; 
 after 1 M. (from the Hotel Baur) it crosses the Sihl by a new 
 bridge, and then turns to the 1., straight in the direction of the 
 mountain (On the summit of which the inn is visible); 3/4 M. 
 Albisyiitli (inn), where horses (4 fr. to the Uetliberg, 6 fr. there 
 and back) may be procured. At the termination of the high 
 road, the most frequented path winding upwards through the 
 valley must be followed. As the summit is approached, a view 
 of the Rigi, Pilatus, and the Bernese Alps is obtained; 20 min. 
 before the inn is reached , is an inscription in memory of 
 Frederick von Di'trler of Ziirich . the ascender of the Todi , who 
 perished here in the winter of 1840. Beautiful Alpine plants 
 are found on the Uetli. 
 
 From the Uetliberg to the ■ Albis-Hoch wach t (p. 33), is a 
 rlelighlfnl walk of 3 hrs., ascending and descending on the Albis-range. The 
 broad path (not easily mistaken) passes the above-mentioned Diirler in- 
 f^eription, and atlords occasional glimpses of the lake of Ziirich. To the 1. 
 is the Sihl, beyond it the blue lake with its thousand glittering dwellings, 
 U) the r. the pretty Tiirler lake, fertile hill-pastures, and the Alps towering 
 in the distance. — From the Albis Hochwacht to Zug, see p. 33. 
 
 From Zurich to Regensberg. A branch line diverges from the 
 'S.E. Swiss railway at Oerlikon (p. 34), and passing stat. Biilach and Diels- 
 dorf, conveys the "traveller in I hr. to the picturesquely situated old town 
 of Regensberg [j Liiwt ; Krone), on the S.E. spur of the Ld'jenigthir'j (p. 17). 
 Fine view from the tower of the ancient castle; still more extensive from 
 the Hochwacht, 3 M. farther. 
 
 14. From Zurich to Lucerne by Zug. 
 
 Coinj). Maps pp. 38., 66. 
 
 Bv the Swiss North Eastern line in lij^ — 2i|2 hrs. ; fares to Zug 
 4 fr. 25, 3 fr., 2 fr. 15 c. ; to Lucerne 6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 55, 8 fr. 25 c. •, return- 
 tickets at reduced rates. 
 
 Immediately on leaving the station the train crosses the Sihl. 
 and at station Altstetten diverges from the Ziirich-Olten line. 
 To the 1. rises the long ridge of the Uetliberg, which the line 
 skirts in a wide curve. Beyond stat. Birmensdorf the Ettenbery 
 is penetrated by a tunnel 1/3 ^^- i" length. To the 1. of stat. 
 Affoltern is the Aeugster Berg, at the base of which are situated 
 the small Tiirler See, the village of Aeuyst, and the Baths of 
 Wenge. As Zug is approached the Lorze is crossed and the 
 fertile Baarer Boden (p. 47) traversed. 
 
 Zug, see p. 47. The station is on the N. side of the town. 
 From Zug to the Rigi, see R. 19. 
 
 On leaving Zug the train skirts the flat N. bank of the lake 
 (to the S. rises the Rigi), again crosses the Lorze w^hich de-
 
 ALBI8. 15. Route. 33 
 
 scemls from tlie Lake of Etjeri to the Lake of Zug, and recrosscs 
 the same river as it emerges from the lake near station Cham 
 (Rabe). To the 1. a tine view of Zug. At stat. Rothkreuz 
 the train enters the valley of the Reuss, following the r. bank 
 (if the river. The bridge of Uislikon was the scene of several 
 sharp skirmishes during the war of the Separate League in 1S47. 
 Beyond stat. Ehikon the small Rothsee is passed, and the Reuss 
 crossed by a long iron bridge. The line now unites with the 
 Swiss Central (p. 14). passes under the Gibraltar (p. 50), and 
 stops at the station of Lucerne on the 1. bank of the lake, oppo- 
 site the hotels. 
 
 Lucerne, see p. 49. 
 
 From Zurich to Zug over the Alhis 18 M. ; since the coiuph^tion 
 nt' the aliove raihvay the diligence has ceased to run. Carriage from 
 Zurich to the Allii.s Inn in '2^li hrs. , fare 10 — 12 fr. (As to pedestrians, 
 i.;ee helow.) 
 
 The Alius road quits the W. bank of the lake at WoUishofen (p. .39), 
 ascends towards the S.. and traverses a monotonous jilain. Near Adlischwyl 
 (liGO'i it crosses the <S'//// by a c<>vei-ed wooden bridge, and then winds 
 uinvai-(ls from Uiiier-Albii^ to 
 
 S^Ja 31. Ober-Albis (26t)2'), a solitary inn at the liighest point of the 
 road. The IJodncarhl (2887') (poor inn). l'|-j M. from the road and the 
 Albis Inn. atTords a beautiful and e.\tensive prospect, embracing the entire 
 Lake of Ziirich, the volcanic heights of Swabia to the X., the Lake of Zug, 
 Rigi, Pilatus, part of the Lake of Lucerne, and the Alps frcun the Sentis 
 to the Jungfrau to the W. and S. The Sihl winds alongs the entire F. 
 base of the Albis. Here in 1799 the French and Russians faced each 
 other during three months : the former were posted on the Albis . their 
 adversaries on the r. bank of the Sihl, until at length Massena effected 
 his famous passage of the Linunat (p. 17), and compelled the Russians 
 to retreat. 
 
 The road descends gradually in long curves: it passes near the little 
 Tiirlev Hee (on the r.) (2129') and reaches Hausen(2l)34') (iw^re;, a thriving 
 village in a beautiful district. In the neighbourhood, on a wooded height 
 lo the 1. of the road, is Albisbnaiii, a hydrnpathic estab.. much frecjuented 
 by French patients (pension 6i|4 fr.). The next village is Kappel (1879'), 
 with the Gothic church of an ancient Cistercian convent, cont.iiniiii some 
 old stained glass. A battle took place here on Oct. Uth, 1531, between 
 the Rom. Cath. cantons united with Lucerne, and the reformers of Zurich, 
 amongst whom was Zwingli. \ metal plate, inserted in the rock . and 
 bearing a German and Latin inscription, is to be seen on the road near 
 Kappel; it indicat<'s the sjiot where a soldier of Unterwalden found Zwingli 
 wounded and. without knowing him, pierced him with his sword tor 
 refusing to invoke the Virgin and Saints, ^'ear Jiaar (p. 47) the roads 
 from the Albis and Horgen unite. 
 
 .M. Zug, see p. 47. — Pedestrians may, as far as £aai\ 2>J4 M. from 
 Zug. always avoid the high road and follow pleasant footpaths, which are 
 easily found. The walk from Zurich by the Uetli, Albis Hochwachf, Han- 
 sen, and Kappel, to Zug will then occupy about 8 hrs. (comp. p. 32). 
 
 15. From Ziirich to Bern by Olten, Aarburg, and 
 Herzogenbuchsee. 
 
 Swiss Xorth Eastern and Central Railwavs. In 4— 5i|-. hrs. i 
 fare 13 fr. 75, 9 fr. 65. 6 fr. 9t) c. 
 
 From Zurich to Olten, see R. 7 ; from Olten to Herzogenbuchsee, 
 see p. 8; from Herzogenbuchsee to Bern, see p. 13. 
 
 B.tDEKLK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 3
 
 34 
 
 16- From Zurich to Friedrichshafen and Liiidau by 
 Eomanshorn. 
 
 Comp. Maps pp. S8. 18. 20. 
 
 Swiss North Eastern K a i 1 w a y. Tu Romanshorn in 2 hrs. ; fare 
 8 fr. 75, 6 fr. 10, 4 fr. 35 c. Steamboat to Friedrichshafen in 1 hr. ; 
 fare 3G or 24 kr. ; to Lindau in li|.j hr. ; fare 1 tl. 6 kr. or 42 kr., see p. 2U. 
 
 The line crosses the SiJil^ ascends in a wide curve, crosses 
 the Liinmat by an iron bridge, and passes between the Kafer- 
 berg on the 1. and the Ziirichberg on the r. through the tunnel 
 of Oerlikon (3060' in length ). Between the stations of Oerlikon 
 and WaUiseUen it crosses the GLatt. To the S. the line to Rap- 
 perschwyl diverges, see p. 41. The next stations are Effretikon 
 and Kempthal. Near Winterthur the line crosses the Tiiss. On 
 an emiiiencf to the 1. the ruins of Hoch-WiiLflingen. 
 
 Winterthur (1473') CG old. Lei we; -Krone: -Ad ler, nearest (he 
 station. R. lijo. B. 1 fr. ; Refreshm. at the Ca/e Bitter, the Casino, and the 
 Rail. Station), situated on the Eularh, is an industrial and wealthy 
 town with 9404 inhab. (974 Rom. Cath.). The town displayed a de- 
 voted attachment to Austria in ancient times. Independence was ac- 
 corded to it in 1417, but this distinction it voluntarily resigned in 
 1442, and became once more subject to Austria. Since 1467 it 
 has belonged to Ziirich. The new Toiim Hall was designed by Prof. 
 Semper. The large School (adorned wnth statues of Zwingli, 
 Gessner, Pestalozzi. and Sulzer) (1840), on the Promenade, con- 
 tains a few small Roman antiquities found near Ober-Winterthur 
 C Vitodurumj. Excellent wine is grown in the neighbourhood, 
 the best at Neftenbach (p. 26). — The ancient castle oi Kyburg, 
 41/2 M. S. of AVinterthur. commands a fine view, and contains a 
 collection of ancient pictures. 
 
 The Schaffhausen-St. Gall and Ziirich-Romanshorn lines inter- 
 sect at M interthur. The latter traverses the green and fertile 
 canton of Thurgau. Next stat. Wiesendangen and Islikon. 
 
 Frauenfeld (1374') (*Falke), capital of the Canton of Tlmr- 
 gau, with 5138 inhab. (1079 Rom. Cath.), on the Murg, possesses 
 numerous cotton-mills. J>arracks opposite the station. The hand- 
 some old castle on its ivy-clad crag is said to have been built by 
 a Count von Kyburg in the llth cent. 
 
 Next Stat. Felwen. Near stat. Mulheim the line crosses the 
 Thur by a covered wooden bridge. 
 
 From Jliilheim to Constance diligence once daily in 2 hrs. Near 
 yViildi , at a little distance 1. of the road, is a belvedere on the Hohen- 
 rain, commanding a magnificent view. 
 
 Then stat. Marstetten and Weinfelden (1404') (diligence 
 daily to Constance in 2 hrs.). Schloss Weinfelden (iSi)0'\ rises 
 on a vine-clad hill to the 1. Next stat. Bilrglen, Sulgen, Am- 
 risti-yl, and then Romanshorn (1322') C/fofei /iof/tm; Romerhom), 
 situated on a peninsula on the Lake of Constance, with a good
 
 ST. GALL. 77. Route. 35 
 
 harbour. The railway runs close to the harbour, and the trains 
 correspond with the steamboats. Lake of Constance and Fried- 
 richshafen, see p . '21. 
 
 17. From Zurich to Lindau by St. Gall and Rorschach. 
 
 Comp. Maps pp. 18, 20. 
 
 U n i t e d S vv i s s R a i 1 w a \ s ( Vereinigte Schweizerbahnen) from Wintei - 
 thiir to Korschach. To Rorschach in 4iJ-j hrs. ; fare 10 fr. 65, 7 fr. 50, 5 fr. 
 35 c. — Steamboat from Rorschach to Lindau in P|4 hr. ; fare 48 or 
 32 kr. , see p. 2U. This route is about 2'|2 hrs. loneer than tlie preced- 
 ing (R. 16j. 
 
 From Ziirich to Winterthur (in 1 lir.) see p. 34. The St. Gall 
 railway traverses a distriit not remarkable for beauty, consisting 
 chiefly of meadow-land, with wooded hills on either side. The 
 Churflrsten mountains gradually become visible to the S. , and 
 the mountains of Appeiizell to the S.E. Numerous stations, the 
 ttrst of which is Rattr.-ichen^ and the jiext Elgg , beyond which 
 rise^ SchLoss Ely y. Next stations /lac/o//, Eschtikon, and /Sirnac/j ; 
 then Wyl (1936') (Srhonthal, or Post), a town with several 
 monasteries. The station commands a pleasing view of the Sentis 
 and the neighbouring mountains. 
 
 The line crosses the Thur , by an open-work bridge, 476' 
 long, near the station and old castle of Schwarzenbach. Stat. 
 Ober-i'zivyl is IV.? M. from the hydropathic estab. oi Buchenthal. 
 Flawyl (^'2015') (*liossU) is a large manufacturing village. The 
 Gltitt is crossed. Stat. Gossan, Winkeln. 
 
 From Winkeln diligence daily by Herisau (Lowe), a small town with 
 extensive muslin -manufactories and ancient clock-tower (7th cent.), to 
 Watt wyl (p. 2Ut) in the Toggenburg. and Teul'en (p. 231) in the Canton 
 of Appenzell. 
 
 The iron *Brldge (10 min. by rail, from St. Gall), which 
 spans the deep valley of the Sitter near Bruygen , is B'20' long, 
 '230' above the level of the river, and rests on 3 cast-iron piers, 
 176' high (stone foundations 37' high), composed of perforated 
 iron plates. Somewhat lower down the stream is the h'riizern- 
 hr'ucke, a bridge constructed in 1810. once regarded as a triumph 
 of engineering skill. 
 
 St. Gall. Ilecht, good cuisine: Lowe, R. IM2, B. 1, D. 3, A.ijvfr.i 
 "Hirsch; Linde; Schiff, Ochs, ^Biir, more moderate i refreshments 
 at. the Cafe National and the Distelsang. — Tivoli, an inn and 
 pension (view of the town and part of the Lake of Constance) on the road 
 to Trogen, 1 M. from St. Call. Telegv. Stat, at the post-oftice. 
 
 St. Gait ('2'20r, one of the most elevated towns in Europe), 
 capital of the canton, and (since 1846) an episcopal residence, 
 with 16,676 inliab. (5957 Rom. Cath.), has sometimes been termed 
 the Majichester of Switzerland, from the importance of its linen 
 and cotton manufactories. The embroidery of cotton goods is 
 one of its specialties. 
 
 The Benedictine Abbey , once so celebrated , was founded in 
 the 7th cent, by St. Gallus . a Scotch monk, aiul from the 8tli 
 
 3*
 
 36 Route 17. .ST. GALL. From Zurich 
 
 to the 10th cent, was one of the niObt important scientitic semi- 
 naries in Europe. It was suppressed in 1805. The Library con- 
 tains many remarkable and valuable MSS. (e. g. several copies 
 of the Nibelungenlied . dating from the 13th cent.), of much 
 interest to the literary antiquarian. There is also a catalogue 
 dating from 823 . 400 of the manuscripts nientioned in which 
 are still extant. 
 
 The Cathedral (Rom. Cath.), rebuilt in 1755 in the Italian 
 style, of which it is a fine example, has some beautiful frescoes 
 on its vaulted roof. The Prot. Church of St. Lawrence, to the N. 
 of the cathedral, has been restored, and partly rebuilt (1850— 1854) 
 in the Gothic style. 
 
 The Toicn Hall bears the inscription : '/n diesem Ha use soil 
 finden Schatz die Ehre Gottes und gemeiner Nutz" (The glory of 
 God and the public weal shall find protection in this house). 
 The Literary Museum near the Rathhaus is well supplied with 
 newspapers. ScholVs Cabinet of Reliefs is worthy of a visit; 
 among them is a relief-map of the Sentis, 96 sq. ft. 
 
 The most imposing building in the town is the large Public 
 Seminary (completed in 1855), at the E. extremity, on the road 
 to Rorschach. One wing contains the Museum of Natural History, 
 and above this the Tovn Library., rich in MSS. of the time of 
 the Reformation. The Art Union (Kunstverein) also holds its 
 sittings here. 
 
 The Arsenal, the Deaf and Dumb and Orphan Asylums, the 
 Penitentiary , Hospital . and Reformatory may also be visited by 
 those whom leisure and inclination lead to such institutions. 
 
 Excursions. Trogen., Gais, Appemell, Wetxshad, 8t'e pp. 278, 279. 
 One-horse carr. to these places and back from vSt. Gall 12 fr., an agreeable 
 day's excursion. Diligence and omnibus to Appenzell see p. 276. — 'Freiiden- 
 ber(/, Voglisegg. Frolichitegg, see p. 281. — The Rosenberg with the Kurzen- 
 burg, a Deaf and Dumb Institution (view towards the S. W.) and ascent 
 of the ridge to the inn of '*7. Peter and St. Paul' (2589 'j. fine view. 
 Across the pastures to the Bernegg (inn); view of the Sentis. — Kuvver's 
 rock-cellars at the Freudenbcrg. — Tivoli ; Kurzeek on the road to Voglis- 
 egg., near the convent of Xotkerseck. — Bruggen and the handsome 'bridge 
 over the Sitter (p. 35). by railway in 10 min. 
 
 Between St. Gall and Rorschach the line descends 900' in a 
 distance of 9 M. In efl'ecting this , great difficulties were en- 
 countered. On leaving St. Gall, the train passes through a long 
 cutting (on the r. the Cantonal School, on the 1. the Cantonal 
 Prison, with its four wings), and enters the wild valley of the 
 SteinacJi, the banks of which are composed of the deposit brought 
 down by the river. As the line intersects this deposit, dams 
 and cuttings succeed one another without intermission. The 
 Lake of Constance is frequently visible almost in its entire length ; 
 Friedrichshafen is a conspicuous object on its N. bank. Stat. 
 St. Fiden. 
 
 Near stat. Morschwyl the line enters the valley of the Goldach,
 
 :r.^ 
 
 
 'U-: 
 
 ^ 
 
 * , ""F^ hia^n dii}i^/\ 
 
 ^^^^^ 
 
 4"- !'S^t E, 
 
 
 'f! 
 
 i^5,77 
 
 r
 
 to Lindau. RORSCHACH. 17. Route. 6i 
 
 and crosses this stream by a flve-arched stone bridge, 85' high. 
 The district between this and Rorschach is very fertile. The 
 station is on the 8. side of the town, 10 mln. from the quay, 
 with which, however, it is connected by a branch line. Those 
 who arrive by the branch line are generally required to change 
 carriages at the principal station (p. '282). 
 
 Eorschach. 'Seehof, on the lake, R.2— 3fr., B. 1, D.3 fr. ; 'H irscb, 
 alsK a iiiiisinn ; Schilf: ■ K ron e or Pos t ; 'GriinerBaum, R.2, 
 B. 1 fr. ; 'Koch's Hotel and Pension, on tlie lake; pension in all 
 about 2-i: fr. weekly, excl. of supper. The wines of Rheinthal , Schaff- 
 haii.'ieii , and Wiuterthur are the best in N. Switzerland. — Telegr. stat. at 
 the harbour. — "Lake Baths on the W. side of the town, 30c. 
 
 Rorschach, an important-looking town, with 3492 inhab. (101 7 
 Prot.J, carries on a considerable commerce in grain with Swabia 
 and Bavaria. On Tluirsdays a well-attended corn-market. The 
 Bathing Estah.., '/i ^I- to the ^V. of the town, is well fitted up; 
 it consists of two houses with 40 compartments and a swimming- 
 basin for men (who may also swim out into the lake), and 
 another house with 12 compartments for women. Bath 30 c. 
 incl. towel. Railway to Coire, p. 282. 
 
 Excursions. Above Rorschach rises the ancient abbey of Marien- 
 lierg, with beautiful cloisters, now iised as a school. The view from the 
 Rorxcliacher Berg, the green and fruitful hill which rises behind the town, 
 embraces the entire Lake of Constance, with the Vorarlberg mountains 
 and the Alps of the Orisons; its summit, the Rossbiihely may be reached 
 in l'J4 hr. from Rorschach. The whole hill -country is intersected by 
 roads, which allord a great variety of pleasant walks. The Castle of St. 
 Anna, or Rorschach, after the noble family of that name became extinct 
 (I44y), came into the possession of the Abbots of St. Gall. The view from 
 the rooms (now tenanted by peasants) is very fine. The path to it turns 
 to the r. below the ilarienberg, and, beyond the bridge, to the 1. ; then 
 by the next turning to the 1., where the path divides among the 
 trees, the hill is ascended. — The JIartinstobel and 3Iottelischh)SS, with 
 the help of the railway, form an agreeable excursion of 3 hrs. ; by the St. 
 Gall railway to slat. «S7. Fideu (see above). Below the station the tra- 
 veller takes the carriage- road t(j Netuiorf (brewery on the 1.), and de- 
 scends by the high-road to the point where the road to Heiden diverges to 
 the r. i'he latter descends to the Martinstobel, the gorge of the Goldac/i, 
 which is spanntHl by a wooden brid;:o, lib' long, 1U2' high, constructed in 
 14(jy, the oldest bridge of the kind in E. Switzerland. Here at the com- 
 mencement of the lUth cent, the monk Notker composed his 'J/frf/a vita 
 ill niorte .sv/hh/.*', upon seeing a man accidentally killed. Beyond the bridge 
 the road which ascends to the 1., across the debris of a landslip which 
 took place in ISio, should be taken to Cntereggeii (Schatle), and thence the 
 Goldach road descended as far as the Mottelischloss, the chateau on a green 
 eminence to the r. This was formerly the seat of the Barons of Sulzberg, 
 of whom it was purchased by the opulent Motteli of St. Gall, and after 
 passing through various vicissitudes, it has now fallen almost into a 
 ruined condition. A foot-j aih leads direct to the castle. The view from 
 the new platform on the top (gratuity) is one of the finest on the lake. 
 Agreeable walk back to Rorschach through the Witholz., 1 hr. — To Tii- 
 bacli surrounded by fruit-trees, and the Castle of Steiiiach about 1 hr. — 
 ~ Wienachter Eck ., Heiden., see p. 277, li/ieiiieck, T/ialy Weiiibiirg (castle of 
 the Prince of Hidienzollern-Sigmaringen), the ~ Steiiierne 7V.<!<-/i (stone table), 
 see p. 283. — lo the Meldegg, a rocky prominence at the angle of the 
 Rhine valley, commanding a charming view of the valley and the lake. 
 The route is by a good road via R/ieineck and Walzenhaiisen to (9 M.) the
 
 38 Route 18. LTNDAU. 
 
 monasterv- of Grinimeiisteiii , whence the Bleldepg i.s reached t>y a fciotpafh. 
 to the 1. in i|4 hr. 'Inn on the top open in summer f)nly. This point 
 may also be reached from St. Margarelhen fp. 283) in 1 hr. 
 
 At Horn fJij'^ M. N. W., on the road by the lake), there i.'< an extensive 
 Pension and Bath-estab. . on the bank of the lake, R. 1 to 6 fr.. B. 85 c, 
 D. inc. W. 21(2 fr.. A. 40. whey 70, cold bath 45 c. incbiding towels, warm 
 or shower bath 70 c. Pension 25 fr. per week. Visitors are also received 
 at the chateau, to the 1. on the road, a few paces from the Baths. The 
 bath-physician is Dr. Tobler. a well known Oriental traveller. There are 
 unfortunately no shady walks in the vicinity. 
 
 To Lindaii by water fli/4 hr., fare 48 or 42 kr.), comp p. 20. 
 To the S.E. Bregenz fp. 351) is visible, situated at the foot of 
 picturesque mountains. On entering the harbour of Lindau, the 
 steamboat passes a lighthouse on the N. , and a stone lion on 
 the iS. jetty. Monument of King Max, see below. 
 
 Lindau {*Bayrisch€r Hof, near the station and the steamboat 
 pier, R. 48, B. 28 kr.. D. 1 fl. 12, A. 24 kr. : *Krone; Deut- 
 sches Hans, at the harbour; Sonne; Raiiiray Restaurant; lake- 
 baths. 8 kr.), terminus of the Bavariaii South-Western Railway 
 (express to Augsburg S^/o- to Munich 7 hrs.), formerly an im- 
 perial town and fortress, and during the middle ages remarkable for 
 its trade, is situated on an island in the Lake of Constance, and 
 connected with the mainland by the new railway-embankment, 
 and a wooden bridge. 1066' long. Lindau is said to have been 
 the site of an ancient Roman fort, of which the venerable tower 
 near the bridge probably formed a part. Monument to King 
 Max n. fd. 1864) at the harbour. Those interested in horti- 
 culture should visit the IJndenhof; admittance gratis on Tuesdays 
 and Fridays, on other days by cards (30 kr. ) procured at the hotels. 
 If the visitor's stay is short, he should walk to the mainland over 
 the railway embankment, turn to the r. along the bank, and return 
 to Lindau by the wooden bridge; this may be done in '/-j hr. From 
 the Heuerbery {^/^ hr.) a beautiful view of the town , the lake, 
 and the Alps is obtained (evening light most favourable). 
 
 18. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Ziirich and 
 Wallenstadt. 
 
 Comp. also Map p. 276. 
 
 81i|4 3I. R'a i 1 w a y C United Swiss) by Wallisellen, Rapperschwyl. Wesen, 
 and Sargans. o^li. 6, or 7 hrs. : fares 14 fr. 70, 8 fr. 80 c. 6 fr. Comp. Intro- 
 duction X. The railway does not approach the lake of Zurich till Rapper- 
 schwvl is reached. It is. therefore, far preferable to take the 
 
 Steamboat to Rapperschwyl in 2i|2hrs.. fare 1 fr. 90. or 1 fr. 20c.; 
 or to Schmerikon, at the upper extremity of the lake, in 81)4 hrs., fare 
 2 fr. 65 c. or 2 fr. Return-tickets, available for the day of issue, at one 
 fare and a half; landing and embarking in small boats without addi- 
 tional charge. — Railwav-stations both at Rapperschwvl and Schmerikon. 
 
 The Lake of Zurich (1341'), 25V.2 M. long, and 21/2 M. 
 broad at its widest part (between Stafa and Richterswyl), is fed 
 by the Linth and drained by the Limmat. Its scenery , though 
 with slight pretensions to grandeur, is >carcely equalled in beauty
 
 HORGEN. 18. Route. 39 
 
 by any other lake. The l)aiik> rise in geiitU' ^JDpes. at the- base 
 of which are meadows and arable land ; above these is a belt 
 of vineyard^ and orchards, and on the K. side forests crown the 
 suuiniits of the hills, here about 2700' high. The two banks 
 of the lake are sometimes not unaptly termed the suburbs of 
 the town of Zurich, so thickly are they sprinkled for a long 
 distance with houses, villages, and large manufactories. In the 
 b-ickground the snow-clad Alps fsee p. '21^) bound the landscape, 
 adding to its pastoral loveliness a little of their imposing majesty. 
 
 The Steamhnat, soon after starting, passes (on the l.) A'eu- 
 ini'inMer (1453'), a suburb of Ziirich, with its picturesque church 
 oil the hill. It now directs its course towards the W. bank, to 
 FnndUkon (except for the two routes along the E. bank), in the 
 parish of Kileliherf/ , which stands above it, on the hills whi<'h 
 bound the bank. On the r. is Wollhhofen , on the 1. Zollikon 
 ()>. 31), on the hill, with its pointed steeple. The boat now 
 steams along the S. bank: above Hil-^chlilcon the white buildings 
 of A7r/e?/)«ri (beautiful view): opposite, on the r. bank, Kvsnac.ht 
 (*Sonne). not to be confounded with the village of that nanu- 
 on the Lake of Lucerne (p. 4-8). The next place on the X. 
 bank is FMenbnch ; on the 8.. Thalwyl (Krone, on the lake: 
 *Adler}. charmingly situated. P.eautiful *view of the lake from 
 the neighbourhood of the church, or >till better from the gallery 
 of the tower; one of the most delightful of the short excursions 
 I'rom Ziirich. Between Thalwyl Sind Herrliberg, the next village 
 on the N. bank, is the deepest part of the lake (470'). Ober- 
 rieden is the next place on the S. bank; the boat then stops at 
 
 Horgen (1304') ('■^Mekrhof, on the lake, pleasasit garden. 
 T;. 1'.,. P>. 1. L. and A. 1 fr. . Pension 5—6 fr. ; Schwnn ; 
 Lihre; Pension Krdu.ss), visible from Ziirich. and presenting all 
 the appearance of a town. .Most of its handsome and substan- 
 tially built houses belong to the proprietors of the silk manu- 
 factories. Pop. 5199 (3'2i Rom. Cath.). The boats which ply on 
 the N. and S. banks of the lake meet at this place . which is 
 convenient for those who wish to change the direction of their 
 journey. Few travellers make any stay here, although the little 
 town well deserves a visit, but almost all who proceed to the 
 Rigi or to Lucerne by the lake-route (see R. 19) pass this way. 
 Pleasant walk to the Sanitary estab. of Bokken (pension 5 fr.), 
 commanding a line view, and to the Zimmerberg (p. 46). 
 
 The picturesque and wooded peninsula of Au projects into 
 the lake on the 8. bank (*Leuthold's Hotel, 150 ft. above the 
 lake, pleasant view of the lake and E. Alps, pension 5 fr.). 
 Opposite, on the N. bank, is the considerable village of Meilen 
 (Lowe; Sonne); next Ohermeilen; then L'etikon and Mdnnedorf. 
 Behind the<e rises the Pfannen^tiel ('2US'). Ear to the E.. in 
 the background, rises the Speer (p. 43), to the r. the mountains
 
 40 Route 18. RAPPKRSCHWYL. From Zurich 
 
 of Glarus ; 1. of the Speer is the Sentis (p. 282). and more to 
 the N. the mountains of Toggenburg ; to tlie r., above the lake, 
 the forest-clad Hohe Rhonen. The next places on the S. bank 
 are the handsome villages of 
 
 Wadenswyl (1604') (*Engel, opp. the steamboat pier; dili- 
 gence to Ziig dailyj. the largest on the lake ( G049 inhab. ). and 
 Tiichter swyl (Drei Konige ovPost; '■'^Engel) (3557 inhab.). wliere 
 the pilgrims to Einsiedeln (9 M., see li. 74) disembark. 
 
 'Excursion: to the sanitary estab. (li|4 lir.) Hiitlen, commanding a 
 fine view to the X. as far as the Jura, Vosges, and Black Forest; thence 
 to the summit of the (Uj-j hi-.) Goitscliallenberg, the W. prolongation of 
 the Hohe Rhonen (see above), which afl'ords a fine survey of the Alps: at 
 the S. base of the mountain lies the pretty Egeri-Sce (p. oi)2). It will 
 repay the traveller to make this excursion even from Zurich. In returning 
 he should follow the ridge of the Gottschallenberg as far as (ija hr.) 
 .Ua))geli\ and proceed hy the monastery of O'ubel to ('j2hr.) Afenzingeu ; then 
 across the Sihl (p. 46) to (7i|2 M.) Horgoi., and back to Zurich by steamer. 
 
 The boat now steers N. to Stafa on the opposite bank: this 
 is the widest part of the lake : beautiful retrospect of Wiidens- 
 wyl and Richterswyl. Stafa (Sonne; Lbxce) is the largest village 
 on the r. bank (^3836 inhab.), and is noted for the active part 
 which it takes in all national movements. 
 
 From Stafa the boat steers along the N. bank, passing 
 Verikon and Schirmensee. Before reaching Rapperschwyl , the 
 small flat islands of Lutzelau and L'fnau become visible to the r., 
 in front of the wooded heights of the Etzel (p. 29o). The 
 latter island belongs to the convent of Einsiedeln , and is the 
 site of a farmhouse, and also of a church and chapel, consecrated 
 in 1141. Vlrich von Hutten, one of the most violent of all tlie 
 early reformers, and one of the boldest and most free-spirited 
 men of his time , sought refuge here when pursued by the In- 
 quisition in 1523, but died only 15 days after his arrival, at the 
 age of 36. His remains rest in the little churchyard, but the 
 exact spot is unknown. 
 
 Rapperschwyl (*Schwan, on the lake; Paste, on the lake, 
 with restaurant, R. 1—2, D. 27.2., B. 1, A. V-2 fr. ; *Freihof, in 
 the town; Hotel du Lac) is a town with 2574 inhab. [SiS Prot.J, 
 in a picturesque situation, whose beauty is enhanced by the old 
 castle and church (sacred vessels worthy of inspection), and the 
 Capuchin convent, between which rises an eminence, shaded by 
 lime-trees and commanding beautiful views. 
 
 On a terrace near Rapperschwyl rises a Monument erected in 185S by 
 exiled Poles, to commemorate the hundredth anniversary of the commence- 
 ment of their struggle for independence. The monument, designed by 
 Prof. Stadler of Zurich, consists of a black marble column resting ou a granite 
 pedestal, with an appropriate inscription. Picturesque view of th^ lake. — 
 The old castle (see above), restored by Count Plater in 1871 , contains the 
 Polish Xational-Mnseum, an interesting collection of antiquities, mints, auto- 
 graphs etc. relative to Poland ; adm. free. 
 
 The Bridge, connecting the two banks of the lake, which has 
 for some time been visible from the steamboat, was first erected
 
 to Coire. LACHEN. 18. Route. 41 
 
 ill 1350, and rebuilt in 1819. It is 13' wide. 4790' long, and 
 .supported by 1<^0 pillars of oak. It has no kind of parapet. 
 One-third of the way across the bridge is a bath-house. (From 
 Rapperschwyl to the summit of the Etzel 7'/-2 ^1- ■ thence to 
 Einsiedeln 41/2 M., see R. 74.) 
 
 The scenery of the upper part of the lake is less animated, 
 but far more imposing than that of tlie lower. The mountains 
 of St. Gall, Glarus, and Schwyz. form the background. The boat 
 passes through the bridge , and then steers in a 8. direction to 
 Altendorf, on the 1. bank, in the canton of Schwyz. It then 
 follows the S. bank, stops at the handsome village of Lachen, 
 (B('irj Ochse), then at the small Baths of Nuolen. The steamer 
 then directs its course to Schmerikon (*R6ssli; Seehof; Adier) 
 on the N. bank, at the upper extremity of the lake, not far 
 from the marshy influx of the Linth Canal (p. 43). Railway to 
 Wesen (Glarus) and Coire see p. 43. 
 
 From Lac li e n t o G lams b y the picturesque Waggithal, a charming 
 excursion (to liichisau 8'|2 hrs., tiience to Olarus 4 hrs.). The high-road 
 is followed to Galgeiien and Siebiie/i (5 M.), at the entrance to the valley, 
 in which a carriage-road ascends to Vonier-Wciggithal (4ij-.> M.) at the base 
 of the Grosse Auberg (5584'), and HiDter-Wiiggithal (4 Jl.), beyond which 
 (3|4 M.) is a new inn and bath-estab. Hence to the Kltinthal a guide 
 should be taken. From the bridge the path ascends to the r. to (2ij2 hrs.) 
 the culminatini; point of the Kavvenegg (fjlol'), the pass between the 
 Waggithal and Khuithal. Several chalets are then passed, and the whey- 
 cure establishment of liichisau becomes visible far below. The path 
 now descends the mountain-slope to the r. From Richisau to Glarus see 
 pp. 304, 30a. 
 
 The Railway Route from Ziirich to Rapperschwyl is less at- 
 tractive than that by steamboat, but thence to Coire it passes 
 through most beautiful scenery. From Ziirich to WalliseLlen 
 see p. 34. Here the Coire railway diverges to the S.E. from 
 the line to AVinterthur itc. ; travellers from Ziirich, however, do 
 not change carriages at Wallisellen. All the trains convey goods 
 as well as passengers, and long delays often take place at Rap- 
 perschwyl, Wesen, and Sargans, while the trucks are being loaded 
 or unloaded. The refreshment-rooms at the stations are gener- 
 ally indillerent. On leaving Wallisellen the line traverses a 
 flat district, not far from the r. bank of the Glatt, which flows 
 from the Greifensee (33/^ M. long. 1 M. wide, not visible from 
 the line). Stat. Duhendorf, Schwerzenbach, and Niinikon. Then 
 Stat. Uster; on the r. is the churcli with its pointed tower, and 
 the ancient castle which serves as court of justice, jail, and inn ; 
 the tower affords a survey of the lake of Greifen, and a prospect 
 of the Alps. In the vicinity of Uster are several large cotton- 
 mills, driven by the .4a, a brook near the railway. Next stat. 
 Aathal:, the neighbouring Lake of Pfiiffikon (1778') is not vis- 
 ible from the railway ; the Alps of Glarus and Schwyz remain
 
 42 Route 18. rZNACH. From Zurich 
 
 almost c(iii>tantly in sight in thf background to the S. Between 
 Stat. Wetzikon (diligence to Hinwyl at the N.W. foot of the 
 Bachtel. see below, twice daily in 1/2 hr. , fare 45 cl and Bu- 
 hikon the line attains its highest level, and then makes a rapid 
 descent. To the 1. the Bachtel. with the inn upon its summit. 
 Next Stat. RiW. 
 
 The Bachtel (3671') (Inn, tolerable), a hill to the N.E. of Riiti. coinmand.s 
 a pleasing: view to the X.W. over the district of Usfer sprinkled with manu- 
 factories, the I-Hkes of Oreifen and Pfaffikon. N.W. the Lake of Ziirich 
 from Wadenswyl to the T.inth Canal, the valley of the Linth as far as the 
 hrids:e of Mollis, and the Alps from the Sentis to the Bernese Oberland. 
 Consult Ke/ler'x Panoraiiia, to be seen at the inn. Diligence twice a dav 
 in 1 hr. from Riiti to Wald, at the S.E. foot of the Bachtel. whence the 
 summit may be ea.s^ily attained in li|2 br. 
 
 As the pii'turesque village of Jonen ('which adjoins Kapper- 
 schwyl) is approached , an extensive view- to the 1. of the Alps 
 of Schwyz . with the Miirtschenstock . Schanisberg. Speer, and 
 finally the Sentis. unfolds itself. 
 
 Rapperschwyl , see p. 40. The stat. on the lake near the 
 long briilgp and steamboat-pier, is a terminus, from which the 
 train backs out on its departure: as far as Wesen a seat on the 
 r. should be ^elected. The line crosses the Jonen-Fluss, passes 
 the convent of Wurmspach on the r. . and approaches the bank 
 of the Lake of Ziirich before reaching stat. BolUrKjen. Extensive 
 quarries of sandstone near the lake. Opposite, on the r. , are 
 the mountains of Schwyz, on the lake the Baths of Nuolen and 
 Lachen (see p. 41). The Miirtschenstock towers above the wooded 
 heights near the lake (Untere Buchberg, see below), and on 
 the r. are the Frohnalpstock and the Schild. near Glarus. As 
 far as Schmerikon fp. 41. stat. near the lake) the line runs 
 close by the lake . and on reaching its upper extremity enters 
 the wide valley throu<rh which the Linth Canal flows. To the r.. 
 on a spur of the Untere Buchberg ('2001'). round which the 
 canal winds, stands the ancient castle of Grynau , a frowning 
 square tower, situated in the canton of Schwyz. Next stat. 
 TJznach fl378') (Falke) is a manufacturing village, situated to 
 the 1. on an eminence . surmounted by the church. (Diligence 
 to Brunnen. to Wattwyl. etc.) L. on the height the monastery 
 of Sion. The two villages of Kalthrunn on the 1. and Benken on 
 the r. have the next station in common. The range of wooded 
 hills, skirted by the railroad and the Linth Canal, is the 
 Ohere Buchberg (20'2[''). Near stat. Schcinis (1450') f^Gmiir), a 
 manufacturing village, the ancient frontier of Rhaetia. some sharp 
 skirmishes took place between the French and the Austrians in 
 1799. The line now approaches the Linth Canal; the railway, 
 the canal, and the hish road run side by side at the foot of the 
 Schaniser Berg; to the r. a beautiful view of the Valley of Gla- 
 rus with its snow mountains. 
 
 The Linth Canal, The Linth descends from the valley uf Glarus,
 
 to Coire. WESEN. 18. Route. 4)^ 
 
 often with siicli vinleiut,' Mt. to cany Iragineiits of rock and deposit of all 
 kinds along with it. In process of time this deposit so completely filled 
 the bed of the river, that the entire plain between tbo lakes of Wallen- 
 stadt and Ziirich was inundated, and this district, formerly rich and pro- 
 ductive, was converted into a dismal swamp, from which the inhabitants 
 were at lenjith driven by malaria to seek a more wholesome and congenial 
 abode. In 1807. through the intluence of Conrad K.^clie)\ an inhabitant of 
 Ziirich, a decree of the Diet enacted that- the lower part of the Linth 
 should be converted into a canal, and its course directed into the Lake 
 of Wallcnstadt, and that a new canal (the Kschcr Canal), should be con- 
 structed to drain the latter lake into the Lake f>f Ziirich •, or rather that 
 the Afaag, an outlet of the Lake of Wallenstadt. which formerly flowed into 
 the Linth, should also be converted into a canal. Under Escber's direction 
 the works were commenced in the same vear. but not completed until 
 1822. The total cost was l..500.(XX) fr.. but the [.roposed object has been 
 perfectly attained; the land is once more fruitful, and supports a con- 
 siderable jiopulation. The Governnitut conferretl on Escher and his de- 
 scendants the title of L'.'<r/ier roii chr Linth (p. 3(.)). 
 
 Opposite, oil the 1. bank of the Linth Canal, is the ('olony of 
 the Linth, formerly a comnninity of poor people from the canton 
 ofdiarus, who, previously to the construction of the canal, were 
 t'iifi;a;re(l in keeping the bed of the river dear. Beyond stat. 
 ZiefielbrOrlce tlie train passes through a short tunnel. On the 
 rocks through which this tunnel is cut. an inscription (not vis- 
 ible from the train) in honour of Escher has been engraved 
 (see above). .V fine view of the "NViggis and the Glarnisch 
 (p. 804) to the r. The railway, the Linth Canal, and the hisih 
 road all wind round the Bifjerlikopf ( [^^iV] . the extreme spur 
 of tlie Schani^er ]5erg, which commands a fine view of the whole 
 Lake of AVallenstadt and the Linth Canal as far as Nettstall up- 
 wards, and the lUichberg downwards. The stat. (Refreshment- 
 roonO ot" ^Vesen (passengers for Mollis and Glarus change car- 
 riages, R. r'2) is at some distance from the vilhige and the Lake 
 of Wallenstadt. 
 
 Wesen f*Zitni Speer , commanding a tine view: *Schu'ert ; 
 others of humbl(>r pretension in tlie village and near the banks 
 of the lake), lies in a sheltered situation at the "\V. extremity of 
 tlie Lake of Wallenstadt, and by the luxuriance of its vegetation 
 recals the S. valleys of the Alps. 
 
 The Speer (6417') is usually ascended from Wesen (a rough walk of 
 4 brs.). .\ chalet (refreshm.) is reached in 23,j hrs., a .second 'I2 hr. farther. 
 The view is magnificent, especially towards the E. and X.E. From the 
 Speer in 2'),; hrs. to Xe^.^lau (p. 291). and thence by Amnion (sec below) to 
 Stein in the Toggenburg (6 hrs.). with a succession of beautiful views. 
 
 The Lake of Wallenstadt (or WalUn-see) (1897'). 1'2 M. long, 
 3 M. widt'. and 4(lO — i)iH)' deep, is scarcely inferior to the Lake 
 of Lucerne in mountainous grandeur. The N. bank is composed 
 of almost perpendicular barren crags and precipices from '2000 
 to 8000' hiiih ; on the N.E. the bare peaks of the Sieben Chiir- 
 prsten (Leistkomm 6890'. Selun 7'241', Frumud 7484', Bvisi 7477', 
 /.uatoll 783(V. Scheihenftnll 7o8S', Hinternick 7o'23' ). tower above 
 the water. The Jhiyerhach, 1300'. the f^crenhtich, 1650' (1600'
 
 44 Route 18. MUHG. From Zurich 
 
 above whirli lies the village of Amnion and Amden) ^ and other 
 cataracts precipitate themselves over the cliffs. These, however, 
 generally dry up towards the end of summer. One solitary village, 
 Quinten^ has found a nook for itself on the N. bank. 
 
 On the S. bank (of which the line unfortunately affords no 
 general view) the rocks are so precipitous, as to render nine 
 tunnels necessary. A tolerable footpath runs along this bank of 
 the lake, occasionally parallel with the railway, the first portion 
 of which (_to Miihlethal, before reaching stat. Miihlehorn, see be- 
 low") is the worst. At the mouth of several of the little torrents 
 which descend from the Murtschenstock (8012') , small hamlets 
 have established themselves (see below). On the Murtschenstock 
 and on the borders of the lake of Murg the 'Alpine cedar' (pinus 
 cembra, a rare description of fir) is sometimes met with. — The 
 names of the hamlets Primsch (prima) , Gunz (secunda) , Terzen 
 ('2172'), Quarten (1817'), and the above-mentioned Quinten , as 
 well as the designation of the whole district, Gaster (Castra 
 Rhuetiea) , recal the ancient cantonments of the cohorts of a 
 lloman legion. 
 
 After leaving stat. Wesen the train crosses the Linth Canal 
 by an iron bridge. The line to Glarns diverges to the r. , see 
 II. 72. The Coire line traverses the broad plain , crosses the 
 E.icher Canal (p. 43) near its issue from the Lake of N^allen- 
 btadt, and then enters a tunnel with apertures in the 1. side, 
 towards the lake. As the train emerges from this tunnel, the 
 Bayerbach waterfall is seen on the opposite bank of the lake, 
 and the village of Amnion on the height above. Beyond it are 
 the falls of the Serenhach, which after rain have a considerable 
 volume. Four more tunnels now follow in rapid succession (the 
 first of these is also pierced with apertures on the lake side) ; 
 in the intervals , magnificent views of the lake , the waterfalls, 
 and the mountains on the 1. 
 
 Stat. Wi}alQh.orQ. [Tellsplatte ; Seegarten, pleasant excursion by 
 boat (^2 fr.) across the lake to the waterfalls (see above) und thence 
 to Wesen]. To the r. above the valley, the Murtschenstock is visible. 
 
 From Miihleborn to Mollis, an interesting walk of 3 lirs. 3 good 
 road over the Keremer Berg, by (i hr.) Obstalden (2'234') (; Hirsch, Stern), 
 nearly the highest point of the route. The view embraces the entire Lake 
 of WaUenstadt, the mountains of the Seezthal, the valley of the Linth 
 Canal as far as the Lake of Zurich, bounded on the 1. by the Hirzli (53S7'), 
 and the valleys of Glarus. with the Wiggis and Glarnisc'h. From the height 
 near 3Iollis a glimpse of the snowfields of the Tiidi. Mollis, see p. 29'3. 
 
 After two more tunnels, stat. Murg (Rossli; Schiffli), on the 
 lake, at the mouth of the valley of the Murg. is reached. The 
 best view of the lake is obtained hence; those who desire to 
 spend some hours on its banks, are recommended to alight here. 
 
 The Murgthal and the three Murgseen (Sijj hrs. from Murg) are well 
 worthy of a visit. The path up the valley artbrds a succession of tine 
 views. Picturesque waterfall where the brook issues from the second lake. 
 Instead of returning to Murg, the pedestrian may prefer to cross the
 
 to Coire. WALLEN.STAUT. l^. Route. 15 
 
 Munjulp and descend t.. Emji or Malt in the .Svni/iliul (p. 3C>0|. 0-7 Iii>. 
 walk from 3Iiiig. 
 
 rJeyond Murja; another tuiinol. Opposite, to the 1.. tower the 
 liighest peaks of the Churtirsteii (p. 43). Station Unterterzen; 
 tlie village to tlie r. among the meadows, with the red-rapped 
 tower, is Qnarten. Then another tunnel. The E. end of the lake 
 is now reached, and the bottom of the level valley crossed by a 
 bridge over the Seez. 
 
 Wallenstadt (1394') (Adler, on the lake, R. li|2, B. 1, 
 I)on.sipn 5 tV. : 11 i r s c h , in the town ; Z ii m C h u r f i rs te n , at the station), 
 a small town near the E. bank of the lake. Looking back on 
 the 1. side, a view of the entire lake to its W. extremity near 
 Wesen. as well as of the horns of the Miirt&chenstock above the 
 mountains on its S. bank, is obtained. 
 
 Excursion (with guide) from Wallenstadt in '2 hrs. by a rugged 
 path throiigh wood to the Alp Loses, thence nearly level to Alp Bills and 
 (3(, hr.j Tsrhingtlalp (milk): then past the slopes of the Churfirsten lo 
 (I hr.) Alp Sc/in'eni'ii, and back in IMs hr. to Wallenstadt. 
 
 F r o m W a 1 1 e n .s t a dT to W i 1 d h a u s in the Toggenburg (() hrs., 
 p. "291) a footpath with beautiful views traverses the J/internick (p. 43), 
 suitable, however, only for persons with steady heads, attended by a guide. 
 
 The line now intersects the beautiful valley of the Seez; on 
 the r.. on a projecting crag, stand the ruins of Graphing (Grappa 
 lonya), or Lang en stein, hereditary castle of the Tschudi of Gla- 
 rus ; opposite, to the 1. above Barschis , on a height near stat. 
 Flums, is the Church of St. Georgen (il'iS'), to which pilgrint- 
 ages are made. Near stat. Mels [*Krone) the Seez flows out 
 of the Weisstannen-Thal., which here opens towards the S.W. 
 
 Frt) m:\Ie Is through the W e i s s t a n u e n - Th a 1 and the K a 1- 
 feuser-Thal to V a 1 1 i s. In 3 hrs. to Wei.^staiuieii (3271') (Oamsli). 
 Hence through the valley which diverges towards the S., by the chalets of 
 tlio Alp i'liler Lartiua (4280') and the Alp Val Tiisrii in 4 hrs". to the highest 
 point of the pass, whence a fine view of the huge Sardona glacier, the 
 Trin.serhorn. the Ringelkojif. etc. is obtained. From this to the Tamina 
 bridge, near .St. Martin (4433'), in 2 hrs., and thence to l'«7//.s- in 2 hrs. 
 more. A guide is necessarv for the passage from the Weisstannen to the 
 Kalfeuser-Thal. 
 
 At stat. Sargans (Hotel Thoma. U. 1 — '2, D. '2'/.. fr. : liossli 
 and Loire in the town) the line reaches the valley of the Rhine, 
 and the line from Rorschach to Coire. The station is at a con- 
 siderable distance from the town; carriages sometimes changed 
 here. This little town, rebuilt since 1811 when it was destroyed 
 by tire, is picturesquely situated on an eminence ( 1591') at the 
 mouth of the valley between the basins of the Rhine and the 
 Lake of Wallen^tadt. with a castle frowning above it. 
 
 The Course of the Rhine may possibly one day change, and dow 
 towards the W. through the Lakes of Wallenstadt and Zurich. .\n em- 
 bankment 20' high and scarcely 2(X) paces wide, contines it to its present 
 X. direction, but its bed is rising every year and the neighbouring district is 
 being graduallv converted into a vast swamp. Historians, on the authority 
 of certain old documents, and geologists, arguing from the similarity of 
 the deposits in the valleys of the Seez and the Rhine, are of opinion that 
 the latter river, or at least an arm of it. formerlv flowed into the Lake of 
 Wallenstadt. It must, however, be added that even the disastrous inun-
 
 46 Haute 19. SIHLBRUCKK. 
 
 dation of 18GS apiieavs to havf caused no appreiiensinns of the possibility 
 of the Rliine breaking through the embankment. 
 
 Railway from Sargaiis to Coire by Ragntz see R. 68. 
 
 19. From Ziirich to the Rigi and Lucerne by Horgen, 
 Zug, Immensee, and Kiisnacht. Lake of Zug. 
 
 Co nip. Mapi^ pp. 38, 6G. 
 From Ziiricli to Zug and Lucerne by Railway .^ee R. 14. 
 
 Steamboat from Ziirich \o Horgen in lij-jhr. ^ Post-omnibus from 
 Horgen to Zug in '2^1^ hrs. •, Steamboat from Zug to Immensee in 40 m., 
 to Arth in i^\i \\v.\ Post-omnibus from Immensee to Kiisnacht in 20 min.; 
 Steamboat from Kiisnacht to Lucerne in 3j^ lu-. — Fare 1st cl. from 
 Ziirich to Arth 5 fr. 20 c. , from Zurich to Lucerne 6 fr. 50 c. Xo 2nd cl. 
 through-tickets issued. 
 
 The boat arriving at Lucerne at 11. 35 corresponds with the depar- 
 tures for Interlaken by Alpnach-Gestad and Brienz (Interlaken, arr. 8. p. m.): 
 and the traveller leaving Interlaken at 6 a. m. arrives in time for the Ixiat 
 which leaves Lucerne at 2 p. m. •, see R. 25. — This is the most interest 
 ing route between Ziirich and Lucerne, although less expeditious than the 
 railway (R. 14j. • 
 
 The traveller bound for the Rigi should avail himself of the tirst 
 steamboat from Ziirich. The second is generally crowded, and moreover 
 arrives so late that the ascent of the mountain is divested of much of its 
 enjoyment. Breakfast may be taken on board, or at the Jleyerhof at Hor- 
 gen, where refreshments are provided. In the height of the season, it 
 may be well to telegraph from Horgen (50 c.) for a room at the hotel on 
 the Kulm. At Arth (10. 40 a. m.) a substantial meal can be leisurely enjoyed, 
 and the journey continued (at a pace, if the traveller is prudent, of not 
 more than 60 steps her minute), whilst halts may be made at discretion 
 at the different inns on the route (Unteres Diichli, Oberes Dachli, Klosterli, 
 StatTelj. By these means the ascent of the Rigi is rendered a most de- 
 lightful walk , and attended by no immoderate fatigue (railway see p. 56). 
 
 Luggage forwarded poste-restante for the journey to the St. Gott- 
 liard, should be addressed to the principal otYice at Altorf, and not to 
 Fliielen. 
 
 As far as Horgen (1394') (one-horse carriage to Zug 10, 
 with 2 horses 16, with 3 horses 21 fr.), see p. 39. The road 
 ascends the mountain , and at the direction-post (S'/o M.) joins 
 the road from Wadenswyl. Several line views are obtained of the 
 lake, the Sentis, the Speer, the Churflrsten, and the S.E. chain 
 of the Alps. At the summit (2 M.J near Hirzel ^ is the inn 
 Zum Morgenthal (2244'). The road then gradually descends 
 into the valley of the Sihl, which separates the Cantons of Ziirich 
 and Zug. The Sihlbriicke (1774') (2 M.), a handsome covered 
 bridge , has replaced one destroyed in 1847 , during the war of 
 the Separate League. On this side of the bridge (r. bank) is 
 the * Krone Inn ( Winterthur wine good). 
 
 Pedestrians should choose the old road by tlie Horger Egg (2198') (the 
 commencement of which is not easily found ; enquiry should be made 
 at Horgen) which shortens the way by {^\i ]M., and affords far more beaii- 
 tiful views. Xear Wydenbach , a little way from the road , to the r. on 
 the Zimmerherg (2536 ft.), a magnificent coup d"(jeil is obtained of the lake 
 of Ziirich, the sombre valley of the Sihl, the Lake of Zug, and the Alps ; 
 the JMythen, the Rigi, and Pilatus are especially conspicuous. Xear the 
 Sihlbriicke the old road rejoins the new. 
 
 The road next traverses a fertile plain, and crosses (272 M.)
 
 7Aii. 19. Route. 4/ 
 
 the Lorze. On its banks (to the 1.) is an extensive cotton-manu- 
 factory with its colony of workmen. The Kigi an<i Pilatus now 
 show themselves in all their grandeur. At (1 M.) Baar (1453') 
 (*Lindenhof; Hirsch). where there is an extensive spinning mill, 
 a ghastly custom, not unknown in other parts of Switzerland, 
 prevails. The skulls of the deceased are piled up symmetrically 
 in the charnel-house , to which , oji the occasional opening of a 
 tomb, they are religiously conveyed by the surviving relatives. 
 Zug is about "2^1^ .M. farther. 
 
 I'i'/o -M. Zug (1384') I Hi r .sell K. 2., L. 1,2, H. I'l^, A s,^ f,-. ^ 
 B e 1 1 e V u e :, (J c li s : K r o n e ; ' L ti w e on the lake, H. 2, B. J , L. and A. i fr. ; 
 Zu na Bahnhof , near the station). The traveller. a.s soon as he alights here, 
 is generally as.sailed by a crowd of touters and guides, from whose impor- 
 liinities it is hoped theJlandbouk will en.able him speedily to extricate himsell. 
 
 Zug is the capital of the smallest Swiss Canton ; it contains 
 () cliurches, () chapels, and 4277 inhab. ('230 Prot.J. The Church 
 of the Capuchins possesses an Entombment by Fiamingo. The 
 Arseiitd contains ancient- arms taken by the Swiss, and the stan- 
 dard stained with the blood of its bearer Pierre Collin, who was 
 killed in 14'>2 at the battle of Arbedo (p. 83j. At the S. ex- 
 tremity of the town is the Hospital, erected in 1854. — Dili- 
 gence from Zug, by Eyeri , to Sattel on the Schwy/. and Ein- 
 siedeln road (p. 302), in 2^/4 hrs., fare 2 fr. ; to Arth in 1 hr. 
 20 min., fare 1 fr. 80 c. 
 
 On the W. slope of the Zuger Beir/, 4'|2 M. from Zug are the sani- 
 tary estab. of ' Felsenegy (3222') and ' Hchoiifels ., recommended as resting- 
 places (pensifm 4 — 6 fr.), both of which may be reached by carriage, 
 and alTord a magnilicent view towards the W. From the Ilochicac/tt, 
 295' higher, which formsj the summit of the Zuger Berg, a prospect 
 towards the E. is also o])tained , embracing the Lake of Egeri and Mor- 
 garten (p. 3(11). 
 
 The Lake of Zug (1368'), 9 M. long, 3 .\r. wide, and 1300' 
 deep, is very picturesque; its banks, richly wooded, rise gently 
 to a moderate height; to the S. alone is seen, rising precipitously 
 above the azure waters of the lake, the Rigi , here visible from 
 base to summit. The broader N. end of the lake is skirted by 
 the railway from Zug to Lucerne (p. 32). 
 
 Soon after the departure of the steamer from Zug , Pilatus 
 appears on the S.W., and then to tlie S.E. the Hoss-Stock and 
 the Erohnalp. On the E. bank are the villages of Oberweil, 
 Cntersivell ., and Eietenegy; to the N.W. the steeple of Chum 
 (p. 33) glitters across the plain. The boat sometimes halts at a 
 saw-mill on the E. bank; it then directs its course to the other 
 side, passing an elevated wooded peninsuhi which projects boldly 
 into the lake on the western side, to Imniensee (*H6teL Riyi, 
 K. I'/oj i^- A' Pension 31/2 to 5 fr.), beautifully situated at the 
 extreme N. base of the Rigi. Travellers to Lucerne disembark 
 here, see below. Ascent of the Kigi, see p. 62. 
 
 The steamer passes the distant villages of Walchwyl and 
 St. Adriaji on the E. bank, above which rise< the Ron.fhery
 
 48 Route I'J. KUSNACHT. 
 
 (see p. 54). whose slopes are covered on this side with forests 
 and chalets. As Arth is approached, one of the snmmits of the 
 Mythen, near Schwyz fp. 55). is visible behind the Rossberg. 
 
 Arth (1364') (*Adler; Hotel clu Rigi; Seldussel) is sit\iated 
 at the S. extremity of the lake, between the Rigi and the Ross- 
 berg, but not exposed to the land-slips of the latter , the strata 
 of which cause them to take another direction. The Church, 
 erected in 1677, possesses a silver cup and goblet captured at 
 the battle of Grandson in 1476 (p. 174). The churchyard resem- 
 bles that at Baar (p. 47). 
 
 Pedestrians are recommended to ascend the Rigi from Arth (p. 59j ; 
 those who prefer the route from Goldaii (p. 61), should proceed thither 
 hy the omnibus which is in attendance at tlie steamboat pier (20 rain., 
 fare 30 c). These two patlis unite near the 'Unteres Dachli' (p. 59). From 
 Arth to Goldau, see p. 54. Diligence from Artli to Bruniien by 8chwijz 
 twice daily, on the arrival of the steamer, in 2 hrs.; fare 2 fr. 40 c, see 
 p. 54. This conveyance corresponds with the boat for Fliielen, and at 
 Fliielen with the diligence which crosses the St. Gotthard (R. 23). 
 
 Travellers to Lucerne find at Immensee (see above) an 
 omnibus ready to start for Kiisnacht (20 min.) on the arrival of 
 the steamboat. The road ascends gradually on leaving Immen- 
 see ; on reaching the highest ground, near the Inn Zur Eiche, a 
 road to the 1. diverges to Arth. In the descent, at the opening 
 of the 'Hohle Gasse' or 'chemin creux' (see Schiller's Tell), 
 1 M. from Immensee, and 1^2 ^'^- trom Kiisnacht, stands Tell's 
 Chapel (1482'), ornamented with frescoes representing the death 
 of Gessler, with a satirical inscription. (The broad path opposite 
 leads to the Rigi, see p. 61.) 
 
 The 'Hohle Gasse' (hollow lane) has been gradually filled 
 up by the construction of the new road , but in portions where 
 the overhanging trees form a leafy roof, its appellation is not 
 inappropriate. Gessler s Burg was destroyed in 1308; all that 
 remains of it is a fragment of wall on a wooded hill in the 
 neighbourhood, 3/^ m. from Kiisnacht. 
 
 Kiisnacht (1433') C^Seehof, R. IV2, !>• '^, B. 1 fr.; *8chu'arzer 
 Adler) , situated at the N. extremity of the great N.E. arm of 
 the lake of Lucerne, is also at the foot of the Rigi (ascent hence 
 in 31/2 lirs-, p. 61). Guides and horses, see p. 57. 
 
 The Steamboat , on leaving Kiisnacht, skirts the beauti- 
 ful, wooded slopes of the Rigi, and passes Greppen (1450', whence 
 a new path ascends the Rigi, see p. 62). It then turns to the 
 r. to the village of 
 
 Meggen ('^Pension Gottlieben, beautifully situated 1/2 ^^- t^om 
 the lake, suitable for a prolonged stay, pension 5 — 6 fr., carr. 
 to Lucerne 3 fr.). Opposite the traveller rise the frowning peaks 
 of Pilatus. To the 1. the snowy Urner and Engelberger Alps 
 (comp. p. 50) soon appear. Farther on, as the central poiiit of 
 the cross formed by the four arms of the lake is approached,
 
 LUCERNE. l>0. Route. 19 
 
 the views in every direction become more imposing. To tlie r., 
 on a gentle elevation , is seen the tower of Neu-Habsburg (the 
 supposed scene of the event described in Schiller's ballad 'The 
 Count of Ilapsburg'), the ancient castle of the imperial family 
 of that name, and frequently occupied by Rudolph, who was 
 afterwards emperor. 
 
 As soon as the steamboat lias rounded the little (r.) Isle of 
 Altstad and the promontory of Meggenhorn (p. 69), Lucerne, 
 situated at the extremity of the N.W. bay of the lake, suddenly 
 appears. 
 
 20. Lucerne and Pilatus. 
 
 Coinp. Map p. 6' 6". 
 
 Hotels. Schweizerhof (PI. a), -Luzerner Hof (PI. b), 'Hotel 
 National lopened in 1870), all three situated on the quay, R. 2 fr. and 
 upwards, L. 1 fr., B. I'la fr., 1). at Vl^\-z o'clock 3 fr., at 4 o'clock 4»(? fr., 
 A. 1 fr. •, 'Engli&cher Hot' (PI. c); 'Schwan fPl. d), R. 2, L. and A. 
 I'l.j fr. ; ■ Hotel du Rigi (PI. e). on the ground-tloor a Cafe'; these hotels 
 are all on the lake, near the quay. 'Wage (PI. f J more moderate ; 'Hotel 
 du Lac (PI. g), on the 1. bank "of the Reuss, R. 2— 3, B. HIj, D. 3, L. and 
 A. I'iifr. : Hotel du St. Gotthard, with restaurant, R. lij-i— 2«l2. B. I, 
 D. 3, A. ^[iiv.\ the two last near the station: Hotel et Pension Beau- 
 rivage (PI. d) , recently enlarged, prettily situated on the lake. — The 
 daily intlux of travellers is sf) great that the solitary tourist frequently re- 
 ceives but little attention in the 1st , or even the 2nd class hotels. The 
 Adler (PI. h), R. 1 fr. , B. 1 fr., A Ms fi'-, and the RoVsli (PI. i), newly 
 titled up, are therefore mentioned as respectable, though unpretending. — 
 •Hotel de la Poste (PL k); H o t el des Alpes (Pl.n), 31 oehren , Hirsch, 
 Krone, Kreuz, and Wilder Mann, all of humble pretensir)ns. 
 
 Pensions (see Plan; almost all comfortable and well conducted). 
 Worley, in the town, by the Peterscapelle: Kaufmann; Morell; 
 Fa Her; Dommann; Suter; Tivoli (with restaurant and baths); 
 Belvedere; farther on, Seeburg. All these are on the road to Kiis- 
 nacht. close to the lake. Then W a 1 d i s , outside the Waggis gate ; Chalet 
 du Lion, in a shady situation, above the Lion Monument; Fitzger. on 
 the Felsberg ; Ranch, E. of the Hofkirche; adjoining it, Bellevue 
 and Xew S c h weiz erhaus. Pension Wallis on the Giitscli; Victo- 
 ria and Gibraltar on the hill of Gibraltar (p. 50). Still higher, I hr. 
 from Lucerne (beginning of route see PL a, 3). Pension Sonnenberg, 
 on the hill of that name, with pleasant grounds and a fine view. — Pen- 
 sion Bliittler in the Rozloch (p. 88) on the \V. arm of the lake (I hr. by 
 steamboat, three times daily). Charges at all these from 6 to 8 fr. a day. 
 
 Cafes and Restaurants. Cafe du Lac, by the Protest, church, ices 
 80 c. ; Hotel des Alpes, opp. steamboat -quay; '^Freienhof (l)eer) by 
 the theatre, near the Capellbriicke, on the 1. bank of the Reuss ; Loeweu- 
 garten, near the Lion Monument; St. Gotthard, near tlie station. 
 
 Baths in the river, below the town, with swimminc-basin, and in the 
 lake, below the Stiftskirche (bath 30 c). 
 
 Diorama at the WaL'gis Gate (p. 51). 
 
 Railway Station to the E. (d' the Capellbriicke on the 1. bank of the 
 lake. The steamboaLs to Waggis., Briinnen, and Fliitlen generally stop at 
 the railway-slation after their departure from the quay near tlie hotels 
 (see Plan), those coming from Fluelen and Waggis stop first at the stat., 
 and then at the ([uay. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Offices on the 1. bank of the Reuss, by the Jesuiten- 
 kirche. The Branch Office adjoining the Engl. Hof, opp. the steamboat- 
 pier is also a goods-agency and exchange office. 
 
 Steamboats see p. 66. 
 
 Rowing-boats, according to tarift', 75 c. per hr.; for each boatman 
 
 B^ajDEKER, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 4
 
 50 Roule 2(h l(\Vl^nSK. rapeUhrHrke. 
 
 75 c. : to Wiiii^ifi or .S t a ii s >* t a d w itii iwo men 4', 2 fr.. o men fr.. 
 4 men 7'|2 fr. ; Brunnen with 3 men 12 Jr.. with 4 men 15 fr.. Ac 
 
 Heyond the loveliness of its situation, Thorwaldsen's celebrated monu- 
 ment (p. 51j, and the Arsenal (p. o'i). there is little in Lucerne to induce 
 a prolonged stay. The following walks are recommended: W. to the 
 ■'(iiitsch (Pension Wallis). from the Bale Gate a steep ascent of i|4 hr.. 
 or to Gihraltar (with new Pension): S. by the avenue to Kriens: 
 X. to Allenwinden. i|4 hr. from the quay-, but above all to the 'Drei 
 Linden (with a mountain - indicator) , 3^^ 31. to the K. of the town, not 
 far from the Capuchin 3Ionastery on the We semi in (the library of which 
 contains some old 3ISS. and early inpressions), commanding a line view 
 of Lucerne, its environs, and the distant mountain chain, in the centre the 
 snow-capped Titlis. and in the extreme distance to the r. the Kinster-Aar- 
 horn and the Schrfckhtirner. 
 
 English Church Service during the summer months. 
 
 Lucerne (1437'j. the capital of the canton, popul. 14,L)'24 
 (1291 Prot.), is situated on the Reuss where it emerges from 
 the lake. The Avell-preserved walls and watch-towers, erected 
 in 1385, which enclose the town, give it an imposing appearance. 
 The amphitheatrical form of its situation on the lake , between 
 the Rigi and Pilatus, facing the snow-clad Urner and P'.ngel- 
 berger Alps, invests it with a peculiar charm. 
 
 The clear, emerald-green Reuss issues from the lake with the 
 impetuosity of a mountain-torrent. Its banks are connected by 
 four bridges, of which the highest, at the extremity of the 
 lake, a broad new stone bridge, leads immediately from the 
 railway-station to the N. bank. The second, the Capellbrucke, 
 crosses the stream in an oblique direction. It is furnished with 
 a roof, decorated with 154 paintings, representing scenes from 
 the lives of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, the patron saints 
 of Lucerne , and events from Swiss history. Adjoining the 
 bridge in the river stands the picturesque old Wasserthui-m, 
 in which the admirably arranged ArcJnoes of the town are pre- 
 served. According to a tradition, this building was formerly 
 used as a lighthouse (lucerna)^ from which the name Lucerne is 
 supposed to be derived. St. Peter's Chapel (_P1. 11), at the N. 
 end of the bridge, possesses four modern *Altar-piece6 by Paul 
 Deschwanden. 
 
 The third bridge, the Reussbrucke, is uncovered, ami 
 constructed in a more modern style. The fourth , the Muhlen- 
 or Spreuerbrucke, is, like the first, protected by a roof, adorned 
 with representations of the 'Dance of Death'. 
 
 The Schweizerhof-Quay , with its handsome hotels and avenue 
 of chestnuts, now occupies what was once an arm of the lake 
 (filled up in 1852); the stone indicator on the parapet cannot 
 be implicitly relied upon. 
 
 View. To the 1. the imposing Rigi Group; the highest point to the 1. 
 is the Kulm with its spacious hotel; on the ridge between the Kulm and 
 the Rothstock is the Staftel Inn-, farther to the r. the Schili, the Dosseii, and 
 the isolated Filznauer Stock. To the 1. of the Kigi-group, above the hills 
 by the lake, rises the peak of the Rostiberg ; to the r. of the Fitznauer 
 Stock iu the distance are seen the singulai-ly indented peaks of the Rox!^- Stork
 
 Lion. LICKKNK. -JO. Uoule. r>J 
 
 chain; tlaii lli<i Xindfi-Bauen or fitelisln-i(jer Kiilm, and the Ober-Bautn : 
 nearer i.^ the dark liihyeii stock, and the Huor/ist-r Horn; to tlie 1. and r. i>| 
 the latter, tower the snowy Kngelberg Alps, the last and highest to the r. 
 heing the Titlis; t'anher to the r. the Stanserhorn, the mountains oi Kerns 
 and iSarhscln, and to the extreme r. Pilatus. 
 
 The Protestant Church (PI. lOj. in the immediate vicinity 
 
 of the Scliweizerhof. is ;i Gothic edirtce, completed in 18(il. 
 
 On a slight eminence at the E. extremity of the quay stands 
 the *Hof- or Stifts-Kirche (}'l. 8j, with its two slender towers, 
 erected in 1506. This church possesses a celebrated organ 
 (^performance daily, except .Saturdays and the eves of festivals, ' 
 from G'/i to 77-2 P- m., 1 fr.J, fine pulpit, carved stalls, some 
 stained-glass windows, and two handsome side altars with reliefs 
 in carved wood, one of which dates from the 15th cent., and 
 represents the death of the Virgin. The Vhurchyard contains 
 some fine monuments. Frescoes in the 8.W. arcades by 
 Deschwanden. 
 
 Not far from this church (street to the 1. in a N. directionj, 
 outside the (N.E.j Waggis Gate, 5 min. walk from the 8chwei- 
 zerhof, is the celebrated *Lion of Lucerne (^Pl. 14j, erected in 
 liS'21 to the memory of '2() officers and about 760 soldiers of the 
 .Swiss guard, who were cruelly massacred in the defence of the 
 Tuileries, Aug. 10th, 179'2. The dying lion (45' in length) 
 reclines in a grotto, its body transfixed by a broken lance, its 
 paw sheltering the Bourbon lily ; it is hewn out of the natural 
 sandstone rock after a model (exhibited in the adjoining house ) 
 by the celebrated Danish sculptor Thorwaldsen. The inscription 
 runs thus: IJeLcetiorum fidei ac virtuti. Die 10 Aug.., 2 et 3 Sept. 
 179'J. Haec sunt nornina eorum, qui ne sacramenti fidem fallerent, 
 forlissiine puynantes ceciderunt. Duces XXVI. Solerti amicoruin 
 cum cUidi superfuerunt Duces XVJ. The rock which bears the 
 inscription and names of the officers has unfortunately suffered 
 from the infiuence of the weather; it is overhung with ivy and 
 other creepers. A spring which flows from the summit of the 
 rock forms a dark pool at the base, surrounded by maples and 
 pines. This work is extremely impressive, and aftords a proof 
 that in true art the simplest idea carried out by a master-haiul 
 never fails in its effect. The neighbouring Chapel (inscription : 
 Jnvictis Pax)., contains the escutcheons of the deceased officers. 
 
 Meyer's Diorama (PI. 15; adm. li/o fr.) at the Waggis Gate, 
 contains panoramas from the Higikulm and Pilatus, exhibited in 
 various lights. The foreground is in relief. 
 
 Stauffer's Museum (PI. '25) near the Lion (adm. 1 fr.) con- 
 tains about 600 specimens of stuffed Alpine animals in groups. 
 
 The large Relief (PI. '20; adm. 1 fr.), in a building adjoining 
 the Cafe du Lac, by the Prot. Churcli, represents ancient 
 Switzerlantl with l>ucerne in the centre, on a scale of 5 inches 
 to the mile.
 
 52 Route 20. LUCERNE. 
 
 The *Arsenal (PI. 30), near the Miihleii-bridge, on the 1. bank 
 of the Reuss, is one of the most important in Switzerland 
 (fee 50 c. to 1 fr.). 
 
 On the Ground Floor are cannons with their equipments : from the 
 ceiling is suspended a long Tiirkish banner, captured at Tunis in 1640 by 
 a knight of the ]Haltese order. The two small Turkish flags near it were 
 taken by soldiers of Lucerne in the battle of Lepanto (1571). The First 
 Floor contains weapons for the cantonal militia. The stained-glass win- 
 dows (16()6) represent the armorial bearings of the 13 cantons. At the 
 dfior of the Fpper Story stands an automaton, which bows its head as 
 the visitor approaches. 
 
 The Cliurcli of the Jesuits (PL 9), near the Post-office, is 
 a good specimen of the style peculiar to this order. In the 
 second chapel to the r. is an altar-piece, representing St. Niko- 
 laus von der Fliie (p. 103). behind which is preserved the robe 
 of the saint. 
 
 The Town Hall (PL 1) possesses some beautiful carved 
 work (executed in 1605 by a native of Breslau). and a series of 
 portraits of the magistrates of the town. The tower is adorned 
 with a fresco representing the death of the bailiff Gundol- 
 fingen at the Battle of Sempach. The Fountain in the Wein- 
 markt (PL 14) dates from 1481. 
 
 Filatus. 
 
 Pilatus is ascended from Hergisiciil or from Alpnach. Steamboat to 
 Alpnach-Gestad in 11,2 hr., fare 2 fr. (does not touch at Hergiswyl). Blcittlers 
 small screw-steamers ply several times daily between Lucerne, Hergiswyl, 
 and the Eozloch in 1 — IIJ4 hr.. fare I fr. Descrii ti(m of tlie trip. p. 88. 
 
 From Hergiswyl to the Hotel Klimsenliorn .S'j-j hrs.(down in 1^\-> hrs.), 
 whence the Klimsenhorn may be ascended in 10 min.. the Tomlishorn in 
 34 hr., and the Esel also in 3 , ]iv. 
 
 From Alpnach (p. 89) the bridle-path a.scending to the Bellevue Hotel 
 (4 hrs., down in 3 hrs.) cannot be mistaken. Direction-posts are placed 
 at doubtful points. — The path from Herrjiswyl is shaded in the afternoon., 
 that from Aljynadi in the forenoon. The former is recommended for the 
 ascent; the latter for the descent, as it altbrds a succession of fine views. 
 
 Porters from Hergiswyl 3 fr. ; Horse 10 fr. ; C/iaise-a-porteurs 20 fr. ; 
 from Alpnach same charges. Guides on both routes unnecessary. 
 
 Hotels. 'Klimsenhorn, at the foot of the peak of that name, R. 
 2, B. 1. D. 2, Pension 6 fr.. good beer; *Bellevue cm the ridge between 
 Oberhanpt and Esel, with uninterrupted view towards the E., R. 2, L. ij-j, 
 A. 1 J. S. 3, B. li|2 fr. 
 
 *Pilatus , the lofty mountain to the S.W. of Lucerne, rises 
 in a rugged and imposing mass, almost isolated from the sur- 
 rotniding heights. The W. and N. portions belong to the Canton 
 of Lucerne, the E. and S. to Unterwalden. The lower slopes 
 are clothed with beautiful meadows and forests, whilst the upper 
 portions consist of rugged cliffs and precipices, whence its ancient 
 name Fractus Mons (broken mountain) is derived. The names 
 'Fracmont', 'Frakmund', have in later times been occasionally 
 applied to it, and the name Pilatus (mons pileatus, the capped 
 mountain) did not become general till the close of the last century. 
 The names of the separate peaks from W. to E. are the 
 Mittagyiipfi or Gnopfistein (6299'), the Rothe-Totzen (6893'),
 
 PILATUS. -20. Route. 53 
 
 the Widderfeld (6747', the most barren of the summits), the 
 TomLisUorn ((399?'), the Oemsmallli (_()4;-Jo'), to the 8. the Matt- 
 horn ( 714(5'), then the Slieyli-Eyg (1)705'), to the N. the Kiimsen- 
 liorn (6555' au isolated pealij , the Oberhaupt (7290'J and the 
 Eiei (i)y(3'2', formerly probably EzeL , and sacred to the German 
 god of thiinderj. Pilatus, formerly one of the best-known of the 
 Swiss mountains, had for many years been superseded by the 
 Rigi , but recently it has again become one of the most fre- 
 ([uented of the Swiss heights. 
 
 Ascent. From HergiswyL (_*Rosslij, a village at the E. base 
 of Pilatus, the bridle-path constructed by M. Blattler of Rozloch, 
 (p. 88) is extremely easy and cannot be mistaken. The path, 
 the ttrst part of which is the most fatiguing, ascending to the 1. 
 by the church, tirst traverses orchards and meadows, then wood 
 (after I'/i hr., a small inn), and finally ascends on the barren N. 
 side of the mountai/i to the Jock (G'28'2', 377' higher than the 
 lligikulmj, which connects the Oberhaupt with the Klimsenhorn, 
 where the ^'■Hutet Klimsenhorn is situated. 
 
 Hence to the Klimsenhorn a walk of 10 min. ; extensive view 
 to the E., N., and W., from the mountains of Uri and the Lake 
 of Lucerne to the vicinity of Freiburg , and the Lake of Neu- 
 chatel. The prospect to the 8. is hidden by the loftier peaks 
 of Pilatus. — The *Tomlishorn, reached from the hotel in 
 ^/4 hr., commands a more extensive and unobstructed panorama 
 than the Esel ; the new path which has recently been con- 
 structed, presents no difficulties even to ladies. 
 
 The zigzag path from the Hotel Klimsenhorn to the Oberhaupt 
 leads in ^/.i hr. to the Krisiloch (thus far riding is practicable), 
 an aperture in the rock, 20' in height, through which two ladders 
 ascend to the ridge separating the Oberhaupt from the Esel, 
 where a fine *view of the Bernese Alps is suddenly disclosed. 
 Belleoue Hotel, see below. 
 
 From Alpnach (p. 89) the bridle-path (not to be mistaken; 
 sign-posts at doubtful points), immediately beyond the village 
 crosses the Kltine ScJdierenbach to Jni Grand, whence it gradually 
 ascends in 4 hrs. to the Hotel Bellevue. Those who in descend- 
 ing desire to proceed to Alpnach-Oestad without passing through 
 Alpnach, take the path to the 1., 'o hr. above the latter. 
 
 The Bellevue Hotel , where the path unites with that from 
 the Klimsenhorn, is situated at the base of the *Esel, which 
 may be ascended in a few minutes. 
 
 "View. The foreground comprises the indented rocky peaks of Pilatus, 
 skirted by green pastures. Tlie view of the Bernese Alps is similar to 
 lliat from the Kigi, but surpasses it in grandeur, especially as the Wetter- 
 tiiirner and Walcher or (irindelwalder \ iescherhiiruer , the Eiger, ildnch, 
 Jungfrau, and also the Titlis are more conspicuous. Of the Lake of Lucerne 
 a much larger portion (as far as Brunnen) is visible than from the Kigi- 
 kulm, and its cruciform shape is distinctly observed.
 
 54 Route ?/. GOLDAl'. 
 
 Pilatus may be said to bear the >ame relation to the Rigi as 
 the epic poem to the idyl: the former with its barren and rugged 
 peaks inspires awe; whilst the latter with its rich and grassy 
 slopes presents a smiling and attractive aspect. Pilatus is the 
 great and generally trustworthy barometer of the district. The 
 popular saying runs thus : 
 
 If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day. 
 
 If his collar he puts on, then mount the rugged way. 
 
 But if his sword he wields, then keep at home I say : 
 
 If the summit is free from clouds and fog in the morning, 
 the weather cannot be depended on; but if on the contrary the 
 top is shrouded in fog till noon a tine day may be expected. 
 
 Many legends are connected with the Pilatus. especially with its caverns 
 { Mondloch below the Tomlisalp ; DominWiolile above the Brundlisalp) 
 and its Lake (to the S. W. of the Klimsenhorn). One of the oldest, and 
 at the same time most jiroundless , tells us that when Pontius Pilate was 
 banished from Galilee, he fled hither, and. in the bitterness of his re- 
 morse, precipitated himself into a lake (in the summit of the mountain, 
 which was thenceforth named after him. 
 
 21. From Lucerne to Brunnen by Kiisnacht, 
 Arth, and Schwyz. 
 
 Coinp. ^fap p. 6*6". 
 By Steamboat from Lucerne to Kiisnacht in 50min; from Kusnacht 
 to Arth by Diligence in 1 hr., or by Omnibus in 'jz hr. to Immensee. 
 Hnd thence by steamboat to Arth in 25 min. From Arth by Diligence 
 to Schwyz in li|2, to Brunnen in 2 hrs. 
 
 On leaving Lucerne, the high-road lirst fcdlows the N. bank of the 
 lake, in view of the Bernese and Engelberg Alps: it then recedes a little. 
 bt>yond the Pension Seeburg (p. 49), in order to cut oft" the angle formed by 
 the bays of Lucerne and Kusnacht. As the latter bay is approached, the 
 ruins of Xeii-IIabsbi/rg (p. 69) are seen on the r. The villages of Meggen 
 (1512) (see p. 48) and MuvUschachen (1457'| are next passed. 
 
 5 M. Kusnacht, and thence by the -Hohle Gasse' (hollow lane) and 
 the Chapel of William Tell, as far as the inn 'Zur Eiche\ see p. 48. The 
 road here turns to the r.. whilst that to Immensee proceeds to the 1. At 
 the fool of the extreme X. slopes of the Rigi. the W. bank of the lake of 
 Zug is skirted, in view of the rugged heights of the Rossberg (see below), 
 which rise bevond the blue expanse of the lake. 
 
 IOV4 M." from Lucerne Arth (1364') (Rigi-path see p. 59), 
 is reached (see p. 48"). On approaching Goldau (IV2 M- ) f-^ti.'^.'j/^, 
 R. IV2. B- 1- S- 2'/2 fr.), traces of the disastrous landslip 
 of the Rossberg. which completely buried this large and wealthy 
 village, may be observed. Two tablets of black marble, on the 
 exterior of the church (erected in 1849, almost on the same site 
 as the old edifice), record the names of some of the ill-fated vil- 
 lagers, and a brief notice of the catastrophe. 
 
 Goldau Landslip. The Rvfi, or Rossberg (5141'). at whose base Goldau 
 is situated, is, like the Rigi. composed of -Xagelflue'. a conglomerate con- 
 sisting chiefly of rounded limestone and flint pebbles imbedded in a cal- 
 careous cement. This rock, in itself extremely hard, is frequently inter- 
 stratified with layers of sand, which are worn away by time, or by sub- 
 terranean waters, so that the solid superincumbent strata, wanting fo»ind?- 
 tion. are from time to time precipitated into the valley. The summer of 
 1806 had licen very rainy. On Sept. 2nd, about 5 )'. m.. one of these strata,
 
 SCHWYZ. 1'/. H'M/tt. 55 
 
 UjOCC in l<:Tigtli and lUU' in lliickiif.ss . was |.iTcil>ilate<i In.ni a liciglit nf 
 3000' intf> the valley helow. swallowinf; np (rtur villages with ahntit 50t.l 
 (tt their iuhahilants. and converting the .smiling landscape into a scene f>t 
 desolation. It filled np ahout one-fourth of the Lake of Lower/,, the sudden 
 rise of which occasioned new di.'<a.sters. Tlie anniversary of this event is 
 commemorated by a religious ci-reuKmy at Arfh. 
 
 The high road traverses a part of this scene of devastation, 
 which extends from the Rossberg to tlie Kigi. Time has covered 
 the fragments of rock with moss and other vegetation, and be- 
 tween them in many places pools of stagnant water have been 
 forn)ed. The track of the iand-slip may be distinctly traced on 
 the side of the Ilos.>^berg, which is still entirely barren. 
 
 The village of Lowerz (14T()') (Adier), on the lake of the 
 >auie name. A^/o M. from Arth. lost its church and some of its 
 houses ill the same catastrophe. Driven violently from its bed. the 
 water rose like a wall to the height of TO', inundating the i<lands 
 of Lowerz and Schwanau, and sweeping away everything from the 
 opposite bank of the lake. The ruins of a castle , destroyed in 
 1808 by the burghers of Schwyz, rise from the island of Schwanau. 
 
 Tlie road skirts the rocks and precipices of the 8. bank of 
 the lake. Roth at Lowerz and Seewen boatmen are to be found, 
 who for a trifling fee convey pedestrians across the lake. Tlie 
 lake is 3 M. long and IV2 ^I- wide, and does not exceed 50' 
 in depth ; it is entirely frozen in winter. 
 
 Path up the Kigi, see p. 61. .\s Schwyz is approached, the 
 scenery becomes more attractive. 
 
 Seewen (1512') (Kreuz; *RossU, baths), at the E. extremity 
 of the lake, possesses a chalybeate spring which attracts a num- 
 ber of visitors (Pension 4V-2 fr.. including baths). 
 
 The Footpath from Seewen to Brunnen (3 M. ; l'|2 M. less 
 than hy the Schwyz road, and much pleasanter). follows the brook, at 
 lirst a.=! a carriage-road on the r. hank, then on the 1. as a footpath, and 
 at length cro.xses the Mnotta on a long and narrow bridge of jjlank.";. .At 
 litgenhohl (see below) it rejoins the high-road. 
 
 Schwyz (1686') {'^RdsslL R. 1 fr.. ?,. 1 fr. ; '^Hotel Hediyer, 
 similar < barges; *Cerf, R. ll/o, B. 1 fr. ; ^Pension Piitz), a 
 strajj.uliiig town ({)153 inhab.. 34 Prot.). the capital of the canton, 
 and justly called the cradle of Swiss liberty, is picturesqtiely situ- 
 ated at the foot and on the slopes of the Mythen (the Little, with 
 its two peaks. 5754', and the Great. 6'243'). During the great 
 drought of August, 1800. a tire broke out in the forests on the S. 
 of the mountain, presenting a magnificent spectacle at night, and 
 <()ntinued to rage for a fortnight, baffling all attempts so exting- 
 uish it. Since this occurrence the red and stony sides of the 
 motintains have remained bare. The Mythen are, strictly speaking, 
 points of the Hocken; btit generally the latter name is only applied 
 to that part of the mountain which slope>; towards Steinen. and 
 which is crossed by a footpath (in 4 hrs. ) to Einsiedeln. 
 
 The ascent of the Great Mythen (lV243'| has been greatly facili 
 tated by I ho construction of a new path. The view vies with those from
 
 56 Route 21. RIGT. 
 
 the Rigi and Pilatus. Guide unnecessary. The somewhat fatiguing ascent 
 from Schwyz by St. Joseph., or by Kickenbach ('Hotel Bellevue, also a 
 pension), through the ravine, and by the pastures 'Hasle' and 'IIolz' (re- 
 freshments) to the Holzerjg (5015', small inn, 3 beds), occupies PJ4 hr. — 
 Another path leads from Brunnen to the Holzegg by Ibadi and Rickenbach 
 in 23J4 hrs. (Schwyz remains on the 1.). — Good path from Einsiedeln by 
 Alpthal to the Holzegg in 2^\\ hrs. — By tUe new path from the Plolzegg, the 
 summit of the Mythen is attained in \^,^ hr. At tlie top a small inn witli 
 a few beds. 
 
 Apart from its picturesque situation , Schwyz presents few 
 objects of interest. The Parish Church, completed in 1774, is 
 considered one of the handsomest in Switzerland. The Town Hall 
 contains the portraits of 43 landammanns (sheriffs) from 1534 
 downwards. The ceiling of the council-chamber is decorated with 
 some fine old carving (fee ^/-i fr.J. A relief of the valley of 
 Muotta is exhibited by M. Schindler, a dyer (fee 7.2 fr.J. 
 
 The large building with the church on the height, originally 
 destined to be a Jesuits" Convent, is now a grammar-school. 
 
 Near it is the ancient House of the Reelings, with two red 
 towers, adorned with the family escutcheon. 
 
 Brumien is 3 M. to the S.E. of Schwyz. The road passes 
 by Ibach, at the entrance of the valley of Muotta (R. 76); then 
 Inyenbohl (Pension), whose church with three altar-pieces 
 is worthy of a visit; next the jiunnery of Mnriahilf. founded 
 in 1855. 
 
 ir-/8 M. Brunnen, see p. 71. 
 
 22. The Rigi. 
 
 See Map p. 66. 
 
 Distance to the Kulm: from Arth, Goldau, TelFs Chapel, Kiisnacht, 
 Waggis, Vitznau (railway see below), Immensee 3i|2 hrs., fromLowerz 4 hrs., 
 from Gersau 43,4 hrs. Pedestrians of ordinary powers will perform these di- 
 stances in the time specified, walking slowly (60 steps per min.), but steadily, 
 and without stopping. The descent occupies two-thirds of that time (see p. 46). 
 The ascent on the E. by Arth or (Joldau, or by Lowerz, for those coming 
 from the S., is to be preferred. The path is almost entirely in the shade 
 in the afternoon, and as it commands no view, the etfect is the more im- 
 pressive when the summit is gained, whilst the routes from Immensee, 
 Kiisnacht, and Waggis, which wind round the mountain-sides, gradually 
 prepare the traveller for the beauty of the scene. 
 
 The ascent from Arth, Goldau, or Lowerz, and the descent to 
 Waggis (visit, in passing, the Eotfistock and the KaiizU, see pp. 60, 62) 
 atlbrd the enjoyment of a most charming, uninterrupted prospect over the 
 Lake of Lucerne and the Alps of Uri and Lnterwald, which renders this route 
 far preferable to the descent on the E. or N. sides. The descent to Kiisnacht 
 (as well as the path to Immensee) has the advantage of being in the shade 
 during the morning, allows a somewhat longer stay on the summit, and 
 yet enables the traveller to reach Lucerne before noon, the steamboat leav- 
 ing Kiisnacht later than Waggis. 
 
 Steamboats between Arth, Immensee, and Zug, 4 times daily, in 1 hr. 
 (p. 46); between Kiisnacht and Lucerne 3 times, in 1 hr. ; between Waggis 
 and Lucerne 5 times, in 3j^ hr. (p. 66). 
 
 Rigi Railway ( p. 59 ) from ^'itznau to the plateau above the Kaltbad 
 (p. 64) in l^U hr. (descent in 1 hr.); fare for the ascent 5, for the descent 
 2'),j fr. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free, overweight charged at the rate t)f i fr. 40c. 
 per cwt. Three trains daily in connection with the steamboats on the Lake
 
 RIGl. 2-2. Route. O/ 
 
 of Lucerne. Extra-trains rtespatclied at any hour ff)r not fewer than 24 pas- 
 sengers. The station at \'it/.nau is close to the steamboat pier (see p. o9j. 
 
 Horses and Guides. Tlie principal jiaths arc so minutely described in 
 the following pages that they cannot be missed. The concourse f)f travellers 
 who frequent the route during the summer months is moreover so great 
 as to render the services of a guide supertlur)us : a l)oy, however, may be 
 readily engaged for 1 fr., who will show the way to the summit and carry 
 any light luggage. (Hiides and horse-proprietors begin to importune travellers 
 at Zurich, Horgen, Zug. ic. The ascent on horseback is not unpleasant, 
 the descent is disagreeable, and more fatiguing than on toot. The leader 
 of the horse expects a fee. A governnient regulation of June ITth, 185S 
 (recently abrogated, but sufficient to convey an idea of the proper charges), 
 fixed the following charges for the canton of Schwyz : Horses. (1). From 
 Arth or from Goldau to the Klosterli 7, 8tatlel, or Kaltbad 9, Kulm 
 or Scheideck 10 fr. ; for return by the sainn route from the Klosterli 5, 
 Stalfel, Kaltbad, or Kulm 6, Scheideck 10 fr. ; for return by Jmmerisee, 
 Kiisnacht . or Wagyis from the StatVel or Kaltbad 9, from the Kulm 
 or Scheideck 10 fr- — (2). Fnmi Gersau to the Scheideck 7, Klosterli b, 
 Kaltbad, Kulm, or Statfel 12 fr. ; for return to Gersau from Scheideck 5, 
 Khisterli, Statlel, or Kaltbad G, Kulm 10 fr. — (3). From Kiisnacht or 
 Immensee to the Stall'el S, Kulm, Klosterli, Kaltbad 10, Scheideck 12 fr. ; 
 for return to Kusnacht and Immensee from the Statlel 5, Kulm, Klosterli, 
 Kaltbad (3, Scheideck lU fr. ; for return by Artli , Goldau or Wciggis 
 from the Klosterli, Statlel, Kaltbad 9, from Kulm or Scheideck 10 fr. — 
 (4). For a horse ordered for the next day for the return, and not counter- 
 manded until then, 5 fr. must be paid. 
 
 Chairs (for the ascent 3 or 4 porters, according to the traveller's weight, 
 are necessary, for the descent 2) : (1). From Arth or from Goldau to the 
 Klosterli for each porter 4 fr. 3<-», Kaltbad or Statlel 5, Kulm or Scheideck 
 G fr. ; for return from Klosterli 3 fr. 60, Kaltbad or Statlel 4 fr. 30, Kulm 
 or Scheideck 5 fr. 30c. — (2j. F'rom Gersau to Scheideck for each porter 
 4 fr. 50, Klosterli 5 fr. 50, Kaltbad or Statlel 6 fr. 50, Kulm 8 fr. ; for re- 
 turn from Scheideck 3 fr. SO, Klosterli 4 fr. 80, Kaltbad or Statlel 5 fr. 80, 
 Kulm 7 fr. 80 c. — (3). From Kiisnacht to the Statlel 4 fr. 50 c.-, Kulm, 
 Kaltbad, Khisterli 6, Scheideck 8 fr. ; for return from the Staftel 3 fr. 80, 
 Kulm, Kaltbad, Klosterli 5 fr. 30, Scheideck 7 fr. 30 c. 
 
 Porters. (1). From Arth or from Goldau, according to weight {%\ 
 40, GO, 80 or 100 lbs.), to the Klosterli lija, 3, 3', 2, 4 or 5 fr. ; Kaltbad or 
 Stallel 2, 3Vj, 4i;2, 5 or 6 fr. ; Kulm or Scheideck 3, 4"j2, 5, 6 or 61,2 fr. — 
 (2). From (iersau to .Scheideck I'ja, 3, 31)2 5 4 or 5-, Khisterli 2, 3'i2, 4, 
 4>(2, 5»J2 fr. ; Kaltbad or Statlel 2'|2, 4, 4112, 5, 6 fr. ; Kulm 3, 4>l2, 5, 6, 
 6M2 fr. — (3). From Kiisnacht to the StaOel l'|2, 3, 31,2, 4. 5 fr. : Kulm, 
 Kaltbad, or Klosterli 2, 3ij2, 4'|2, 5, 6 fr. ; Scheideck 3, 4', 2, 5, 6, 6'>|2 fr. 
 
 For Waggis (Canton of Lucerne), the following official taritl' was 
 fixed in I860: Horse with conductor to Kaltbad 6, Staffel or Klosterli 8, 
 Kulm 10 fr. ; for return the same day 4, 5 or 6 fr. ; C/tairHy for each porter 
 to Kaltbad 4, Statlel^ or Khisterli 5, Kulm G fr. (samerate for the descent, 
 if there has been no previous agreement for a reduced charge). Porters^ 
 by weight (2<J to 40, 40 to GO, W to 80, 80 to 100 lbs.), to Kaltbad 2i|2, 3, 
 3i|2, 4'|2fr., Statlel or Khisterli 3, 3>|2, 4ij2, 5 fr., Kulm 3'j2, 4i|2, 5, G fr. ; 
 Guides (with 20 lbs. of luggage), to Kaltbad 1 fr. 20 c, Stallel or Klosterli 
 11 ,'2, Kulm 2 fr. 
 
 Regulations. The following are the most important clauses: § 8. The 
 horses for hire must be sound and strong, the gear in good order. § 8. The 
 cliief of the guides (Tourmeister), who holds office under the superinlenenced 
 of the burgomaster, is responsible for the observance of the regulations. 
 His duty is to maintain order amongst the guides, to render assistance to 
 travellers, and to give notice of any infringement of the regulations. § 11. 
 Each horse must have a leader. § 12. The chief of the guides has the 
 sole right of ottering guides or horses to travellers, without, however, con- 
 trolling their choice. § 14. The guides are forbidden to importune travellers. 
 § 15. Civility and sobriety are strictly enjoined. Guides are personallv 
 ri-s|.()nsibli- for the luggage entrusted to them. § Hi. Thev are forbidden
 
 58 Route •}2. RIOl. Hotels. 
 
 k» ask tor gratuities in exci-ss of the taritV. ^ 10. The diief of the guides 
 has to adjust any differences that may arise among; the guides themselves, 
 or between travellers and their guides: if he cannot succeed in doing so, 
 the matter must V>e brought before the mayor (Gemeindeamniannj. or the 
 nearest magistrate. 
 
 The ascent of the Rigi is attended with no difficulty ; the lirst portion 
 is the steepest. The traveller who feels fatigue at the commencement ot 
 the undertaking, never fails to recover as he approaches the summit, and 
 inhales the pure and invigorating mountain air. The Kulm should b^' 
 reached at least an hour before sunset, in order to secure the evening view, 
 the morning fogs too often causing disappointment. 
 
 Hotels, On the Kulm : H o t e Tr i g i - K u 1 m tp. 62), R. in the old house 
 3 — 4. in the new 4 — 5 fr.. L. I. B. I'lj. table d'hote at 12'|j or in the even- 
 ing, exc. W. 4, the cheapest wine 3 fr. a bottle, tea with cold meat S'U- 
 A. I fr. The rooms to the S. (generally with 2 beds) alone command a 
 complete view of the Alps. Telegr. oflice in the house. — *R ig i -S ta f fel . 
 "l-ihr. below the Kulm. recently enlarged, R. li's, B. li|4, S. 2i(-.., A. 3,4 fr.. 
 pension 5 to 6 fr.. according to the rooms. — *Schwert, near the Klosterli 
 Tp. 60). 3|4 hr. to the E. below the Staftel. unpretending, pension 31;,; fr. ; 
 The Sonne, near the Schwert, is also unpretending, but well spoken of. 
 The Klosterli has no view, but is less exposed to wind and fog than the 
 Staflel or Kulm •- the sun often shines there when the suiTOunding heights 
 are enveloped in cloud : it is therefore a very suitable place for persons in 
 delicate health who contemplate a prolonged stav on the mountain. — The 
 K alt bad (p. 62), i j hr. to the W. of the Staflfel (R. 2—6. B. U,-.., A. ".'2, 
 bottle of wine 3 fr. ) is generally full in the height of summer; pension 
 6 fr.. not including room, baths, whey, wine, and attendance, which cost 
 4 — 5 fr. additional per diem: rooms must be ordered beforehand, so that 
 ordinary travellers rarely lind accommodation here. — "Hotel and Pen- 
 sion R igi-Sche i deck ( p. 65). magnificent view, second only to that 
 from the Kulm. R. from li|2. B. U(4. D. 3i •.». L. and A. l'|4 fr. Pension excl. 
 R. 5 fr. Whey. milk, or the chalybeate water of the Scheideck 15 c. per 
 glass ; ordinary bath 1 fr.. whey-bath 4 fr. Telegr. office. The establish- 
 ment was considerably enlarged in 1870. 
 
 In the height of the season travellers are recommended to telegraph 
 ( ' 2 fr.) from Ziirich . Lucerne. Horgen. Wadenswyl, Zug. Schwyz, Altorf, 
 or Stans. if they wish to secure good accommodatiim at the Kulm. 
 
 The **Rigi (5905'. 4472' above the Lake of Lucerne^, a ffronp 
 of mountains. comprisin» a circuit of '24 to 30 M.. lying between 
 3 lakes fLucerne. Zug. Lowerz^ is chiefly composed of strata of 
 conglomerate (p. 54); the N. and \V. sides belong to the meio- 
 cene formation. The X. side is precipitous, but on the S. it 
 consists of wide terraces . and gentle slopes , covered with tig, 
 chestnut, and almond trees, and fresh green pastures, which sup- 
 port upw^ards of 4000 head of cattle. The N. peak, usually 
 called the Rigi. would hardly be mentioned in comparison with 
 the giants of the Alps, but for its advantageous position, which 
 commands a panorama of at least 300 miles in circumference. 
 It was formerly termed by the inhabitants of the vicinity 
 the Rigi-Weid (pasturage of the Rigi); at present it is known, 
 however, only as the Rigi. The cow-herds and the frequenters 
 of the Kaltbad were at one time the only persons who were 
 aware of its existence. In 1689 an inh.abitant of Arth erected 
 the Chapel of Our Lady of the Snow (St. Maria zum Schnee) 
 for the use of the cow-herds. The image of the Virgin which 
 was placed there in 1700. soon acquired a reputation for the 
 miraculous cures it was superstitiously believed to effect. Hencf
 
 Railway. HTGI. L>2. Route. 59 
 
 arose the ciiifton) of making pilgriiuafres to tho spot, and inns 
 pradnally sprang up, which in 1760 s<arrely affordetl suflFi- 
 cient acooinniodation for tlie pilgrims. Tho Kulm was frequented 
 on fete-days by the inhabitants of the immediate vicinity . and 
 afterwards by those of tlie neighbouring cantons; and in 1760 
 strangers first began to resort thither. Tlieir numbers rapidly 
 increased; in i815 a hut was built on the summit, and in 1816 
 a very inconsiderable inn. erected by voluntary contributions. 
 The Hotel of the Rigi-Kulm dates from 1848. the new part was 
 built in 1856. The Kigi is now annually ascended by -40,000 
 persons on an average, a number which the railway will pro- 
 bably soon increase. 
 
 Rigi-Railway (fares etc. see p. 56). This bold undertaking, 
 projected by M. Kiggenba<h, director of the railway-works at 
 Olten, was conunenced in 1869. and completed in the spring of 
 1871. Vitznau (p. 69) on the T.ake of Lucerne is the starting- 
 point. The ascent, at first gradual, soon increases to 1 in 4 
 (Mont Cents railway 1 in 1*2 only). After y^ hr. the train passes 
 through a tunnel 240 ft. in length, and over an iron bridge of 
 the same length, by means of which the Schnurtobel (a deep 
 gorge with picttiresque waterfall) is crossed. Farther up no 
 great difficulty was encountered in the construction of the line, 
 but the incline continues to average 1 in 5. Stat. Kalthad (p. 6'2). 
 The line terminates at present on the plateau farther up. termed 
 the Staffelhohe (p. 60). but will be extended as far as the Kulm 
 in 1872. The entire length of the line is about 0-/3 M., about 
 one third of it being constructed in curves. The difference in 
 height between the termini is 4000'. 
 
 Construction. The jrauge is that of most ordinary railways. Be- 
 tween the rails runs a third liroad and massive rail provided with teeth, on 
 which a cog-wheel under the locomotive works. The train is propelled up- 
 wards by steam-power, while in its descent the speed is regulated by an 
 ingenious mode of introducing atmospheric air into the cylinder. The 
 carriage for the passengers is placed in both cases in front of the engine. 
 The larger carriages have 5i. the smaller 34 seats, but one only is des- 
 patched at a time. In case of accident the train can be stopped almost 
 instantaneously. 
 
 It need hardly be observed that multitudes of travellers still prefer to 
 walk or ride to the summit. The railway, however, appears to he ci>n- 
 slructed on sound jirinciples, and to be haidly less safe than a level line. 
 It is therefore recommended to those whose time is linuted. 
 
 Paths (compare p. 56). From Arth (p. 48) (lo64') a 
 wide, well-trodden track, which cannot be mistaken, ascends the 
 Higi. At the last house in the village near St. George's Chapel, 
 it turns to the 1. ; in 12 niin. the foot of the mountain is 
 reached; 12 min. more, a cascade of several falls, over blocks of 
 <onglomerate, often dry in the height of summer; 8 niin. meadow; 
 4 min. a large tract of fern ; 12 min. Kasgatterli. a hut in which 
 cheese i» kept; path to the r. to be avoided : 20 min. waterfall : 
 4 min. Unteres Dachli (3084') ( IJigi Inn". K. 1, bed 2 fr. ;
 
 60 Route 22. RIGI. Staffel. 
 
 it is well to ask prices here beforehand), which affords a survey 
 of the whole of the valley of Goldau , the scene of the landslip 
 (p. 54), the lake of Lowerz, and the Mythen as far as the neigh- 
 bourhood of Schwyz. The path from Goldau (p. 61) here joins 
 that from Arth. At the cross near the inn begin the stations 
 or halting -places of pilgrims, 13 in number, which lead by 
 a continual ascent to the chapel of Our Lady of the Snow. 
 The path which diverges at the 3rd station to the 1. leads to 
 the Scheideck (p. 65), but is not easily found without a guide. 
 At the Oberes Ddchli (20 min.; refreshments), in the vicinity 
 of which is a spring of good water, the forest is quitted, and 
 half the ascent is accomplished ; the remaining portion is less 
 laborious. 
 
 Two paths lead from the Oberes Diichli to the Kulm, one 
 for horses, the other for pedestrians only. The bridle-path 
 (I3/4 hr.), to the I. from Oberes Dachli, leads in 10 min. to the 
 eighth station , the Chapel of St. Malchus , where it unites with 
 the path from Lowerz (p. 61). Between this station and the 
 Klosterli , which is 1/2 hr. farther , a cross in the rock in- 
 dicates the place where another steep foot-path leads to the 
 summit in 3/^ hr. The little church of Our Lady of the Snow, 
 with the Hospice, inhabited by some Capuchins, and known by 
 the name of Klosterli (4'266'J (inns see p. 58), was built in 
 1689; many pilgrimages are made to it, especially on Aug. 5th 
 and Sept. 6th. On Sunday mornings all the mountain cow-herds 
 assemble here to attend "divine service. Near the hospice the 
 bridle-path from the Scheideck unites with that from Arth. 
 From this point the Kaltbad can be reached sooner than by 
 going round by the Staffel. When the Staffel (5210'), 40 min. 
 from the Klosterli, is reached, a part of the magnificent panorama 
 is unfolded. Travellers are recommended to make the ascent of 
 the *Riyi-Rothstock (5545') (12 min. to the S.W.), whence a 
 picturesque view of the central part of the Lake of Lucerne, 
 not visible from the Kulm, is obtained. It frequently happens 
 that the Kulm is enveloped in dense mists , whilst the Roth- 
 stock, below the clouds, commands an entirely clear horizon. The 
 sunset seen from the Rothstock is considered by some to be 
 more beautiful than from the Kulm ; but the sunrise is certainly 
 far more imposing from the latter. All the Rigi paths , with 
 the exception of the footpath mentioned below , unite at the 
 Staffel. Lest all the rooms of the Kulm should be occupied, 
 neither fatigue nor rain should cause delay, although the last 
 half-hour of the ascent is somewhat laborious. Ilalf-way, to the 1., 
 is an aperture, the Kessisbodenloch , 12' wide, and 100' deep. 
 A stone thrown into it is seen to emerge on the N.W. face of 
 the cliff, and then disappears in the abyss. Near the Staffel a 
 person is stationed by the Schwyz government to collect for the
 
 Seeboden Alp. KIGl. i^i^ lioute. 01 
 
 poor; it is the only place on the Schwy/. rside of the Ui^i (to which 
 canton belong the paths from Kiisnacht, Immensee. Arth, Goklau. 
 Lower/., Gersau) where contributions of this nature are solicited i 
 unfortunately the same cannot be said of the Canton of Lucerne 
 (Waggis path). — The Footpath flV-2 ^r.) mentioned above is not 
 recommended, as it misses the view from the Kothstock. Beyond 
 the Oberes Dachli it diverges to the r. straight towards the Kulm, 
 bounded on the 1. by a forest of pines. 
 
 From Goldau (from Arth to Goldau ly.) M., seep. 54) is 
 the best and easiest of the Rigi paths, being almost as broad as 
 a carriage-road; after 1 hour's ascent the L'n^cres 7>(7c/iins gained 
 (p. 59). where the paths from Arth and Goldau unite. To the 1. 
 are the steep declivities of the Rothenfluh (5233'). 
 
 From Lowerz (p. 55).' The traveller coming from Arth who 
 desires to form an accurate idea of the destruction caused 
 by the Rossberg landslip (p. 54), should proceed to Lowerz 
 (4'/.> M.). Travellers from Lucerne may avail themselves of the 
 steamboat to Bninnen (p. 71). and thence proceed by carriage 
 in 2 hrs. by Schwyz to Lowerz. Leaving Lowerz. the road should 
 be followed for about 1/4 hr.. as far as a direction-post, where 
 the footpath diverges, ascending gently through meadows, in front 
 of some detached houses. After an ascent of 1 hr. a chalet 
 with a cross is reached, where the path divides; that to the r. 
 leading to the Kulm. that to the 1. to the Kigi-Scheideck (see below). 
 In 1/4 lir. the path reaches a beautiful wood and traverses it for 
 about one hour, before arriving at the valley of the Rigi. which 
 is crossed below the chapel of Malchus (p. 60). On the oppo- 
 site (1.) slope of the valley, the path unites with that from 
 Goldau. The footpath from Lowerz is nowhere fatiguing; the 
 ascents are gradual . whilst level tracts and occasionally even 
 slight descents alTord a pleasant variety. From Lowerz to 
 the Kiifi-Scheideck (p. 65) 3 hrs., guide desirable. Near Ober- 
 (fsclnn'ind the Gersau path is reached. 
 
 From K ilsnucht (p. 48). The path diverges to tlie r. by 
 the figure of a saint, rear the end of the village, leading by 
 the brook, which is crossed near a large new house; in V2 lir. 
 the ruins of a house destroyed by lire; at the direction-post 
 'auf die Rigi' the path turns to the 1. ; in 20 min. Rossweid 
 is reached, where a rock bears a cross to the memory of a man 
 killed by lightning in 1738 (view over the N. part of the Lake 
 of Zug; at the N. extremity the white church of Cham. p. 33); 
 then through a wood for 20 min.; afterwards a tract of fern is 
 traversed (view to the 1. over the Lake of Sempach. to the r. 
 over the Lake of Raldegg). In '/4 ^^r. the Seeboden-Alp (Inn), 
 is reached , where the paths from Immensee and Tells Chapel 
 unite with the Kiisnacht path; in 18 min. the Upper Seeboden- 
 Alp is reached, with a chalet, where refreshments may be had.
 
 6*2 Route -J-J. RIGl. k'altbad. 
 
 Then, after a steep zigzag ascent of 1 1/4 hr. . the Staflfel is 
 attained. Thence to the Kulm (i/.j hr. ) see p. 61. 
 
 From Jmmensee (p. 4?j. About '/i ^^- fi"om Immensee, 
 near the inn Zur Eiche\ the high-road from Kiisnacht to Arth 
 is reached (p. 48); about oO paces to the 1. of the juiu^tion. by 
 the inn Zar Ilge , the path which ascends to the r. must be 
 taken; in l^/^ lir. the lower Seeboden-AIp (see above) is reached, 
 where the paths from Immensee, Tells Chapel, and Kiisnacht unite. 
 
 From Greppen (p. 48), on the E. bank of the Kiisnaclit 
 branch of the Lake of Lucerne, a good bridle-path recently con- 
 structed also ascends to the summit in 87-2 hrs. 
 V'- From Wdggis (p. 69). This path cannot possibly be missed 
 (direction-post near the steamboat-pierj ; it winds through the 
 midst of orchards, the produce of which the traveller has fre- 
 quent opportunities of purchasing. The path crosses the spot 
 inundated in 1795 by a thick bed of mud, which descended like 
 a stream of lava from the Kigi, and as it took a fortnight to reach 
 the lake, left the inhabitants ample time to save themselves and 
 their property. A number of houses and a large tract of fertile 
 land were devastated. At the Chapel of the Holy Cross (Heilig- 
 kreuzkapelle) (l'/4 hr.) good beer may be procured (^2 fr. per 
 bottlej. A wall of rugged rocks is next skirted; 30 min. the 
 Hochstein or Felsenthor, an arch formed of two enormous masses 
 of conglomerate, on which rests a third block surmounted by a 
 cross. The nature of the rock indicates that occurences similar 
 to the landslip of Goldau (p. 54) and the mud-torrent mentioned 
 above, have taken place here also. 
 
 The Kaltbad (47'2T'J, ^/^ hr. from the Hochstein, is men- 
 tioned at p. 58. Through a cutting in the rock to the 1. of the 
 liotel the traveller reaches the Chapel of St. Michael, where mass 
 is daily celebrated for the herdsmen. The walls are covered 
 with votive tablets, one of which extols the virtues of the cold 
 spring (^41" Fahr. ) which issues from tlie adjacent rock. Hy 
 the Chapel, a footpath leads to the (_10 min.) *hdnzli (4770'), 
 an open rotunda on a projecting ro<k, from which a magniticent 
 view is obtained, similar to that from the Staffel , but with a 
 more picturesque foreground. From this point a footpath leads 
 to the Stafl'el , in the same time (40 min.) as the path from 
 the Kaltbad; it ascends from the Klinzli (not towards the E.) 
 to the r. as far as the point where the S. portion of the lake 
 becomes visible ; it then continues to ascend the ridge of the 
 mountain, until, about half way up, it unites with the path from 
 the Kaltbad, so that the visitor to the Kanzli need not return 
 to the Kaltbad. The direct path from the Kaltbad presents few 
 attractions; it leads to the Stafl'el in 40 min.; from the Staflel 
 to the Kulm is an ascent of y.i hr. more, see p. 60. 
 
 The Rigi-Kulm (5905') is the loftiest and most N. poin
 
 Kuhn 
 
 Ul(',\. '2i>. Route. r)3 
 
 ol" the Uigi group ( the entire cinnnilerenre oi' whiili irs '2;')— 
 80 M.), and is covered \s\i\\ verdure to the summit. Its N. side 
 makes a precipitous descent into the Lake of Zug. whilst on 
 tlie 8. side it is connected ^vith the other heights of the liigi. 
 The large hotel (^p. 5<S). with the adjacent older building, is 
 situated about 130 paces below the summit, sheltered from the 
 N. and W. winds. 
 
 View. The first object which al)Sorl).s the attention of tlie traveller, 
 is the immense cliain (I'X) M. in length) of the snow-clad Alps (comi). the 
 accompanying Panorama). The chain commences in the far E. with the 
 Sentis in the Canton of Appenzell, over, or near which the lirst rays of the 
 rising sun appear in summer. 8omewhat nearer the Kigi. the huge sno\v> 
 crest of the Glarnisch rises above the ridge: then the T.idi, in front of 
 which the Clariden, to the r. the double peak of the Scheerhorn -, next the 
 Windgelle, the sharp pyramid of the Kristenstock, at the foot of which the 
 St. Gotthard road begins to rise near Amstiig in the valley of the Ileuss; 
 the Ulackeustock and the Uri - Kothstock , side by side, are both so near 
 that the ice of their glaciers can be distinguished ; more to the right the 
 Titlis, the highest of the Unterwalden range, easily distinguished by its 
 immense covering of snow. Tlic eye next travels to the Bernese Alps, 
 crowning the landscape with their heights of perpetual snow. To the ex- 
 treme 1. the Finsteraarhorn, the loftiest of all, adjacent to it the Schreck- 
 horn, the three white peaks of the Wetterhom, the Monch, the Eiger 
 with its perpendicular walls of dark rock on the X. side, and the Jung- 
 frau. To the W., rise the rugged summits of the sombre Pilatus, forming 
 the termination of the Alps in this direction. — Towards the n o r t h the 
 entire Lake of Zug is visible, and the houses of Arth, Zug, and Cham. To 
 the 1. of the Lake of Zug, at the foot of the Rigi, TelFs Chapel, midway 
 between Immensee and Kiisnacht, a little to the 1. of the white house; 
 separated from the Lake of Zug by a narrow strip of land, the Kiisnacht 
 arm of the Lake of Lucerne: more to the W. Lucerne with its crown of 
 battlements and towers, at the head of its bay. Beyond Lucerne is seen 
 almost the entire canton of that name, with the Emme meandering through 
 it like a thread of silver: the Reuss also appears here and there. More 
 distant are the Lake of yempach, the \V. side of which is skirted by the 
 railway to Hale, and the lakes of Baldegg and Halhvyl. The western 
 and north-western horizon is bounded by the Jura chain, above whicli 
 jieep some of the crests of the Vosges. — To the X.. but to the 1. of the 
 Lake of Zug, the handsome buildings of the ancient .\bl)ey of JIuri are 
 visible, beyond which rises the castle of Habsburg; in the distance the 
 Black Forest with its highest summits, the Feldberg (to the r.) and the 
 Belchen (to the 1.). Beyond the Lake of Zug is seen the ridge of the 
 .Vlbis with the Uetliberg, which almost entirely conceal the Lake of Ziirich; 
 the extensive cantonal hospital and the cathedral in the town of Ziirich 
 are, however, visible. In the extreme distance rise the basaltic cones of 
 Hohenhoewen and HohenstotVeln (close together) and the Hohentwiel in 
 Swabia. Towards the east , behind the X. slope of the Rossberg, a glimpse 
 of the Lake of Egeri, on the S. bank of which was fought the famous 
 battle of Morgarten. Beyond Arth, opposite the Kulm, is the Rossberg, 
 the scene of the disastrous Goldau landslip. Between the Rossberg and 
 the E. ramifications of the Rigi, the Lake of Lowerz with its two little 
 islands ; above it, the town of Schwyz, at the foot of the barren heights 
 of the Mythen, overtopped by the magnificent (Glarnisch. To the r. , the 
 valley of the Muotta, celebrated in military annals. To the south and 
 south-east the ditVerent summits of the Uigi form the foreground: 
 ilochtluh (below it the Rothenfiuh), Scheideck, Dossen. and Schilt, at the 
 foot of which lies the Kliisterli. To the 1. of the Schilt, the Lake of 
 Lucerne in the vicinity of Beckenried, to the r. that part of the lake 
 known as the Lake of Buochs. the Buochser Horn above it: a little more 
 tfi the r. Ihe Stanser Horn with Staus at its base: nearer, tlie less elevated
 
 64 Route 22. RIGI. Kubn. 
 
 Bhrgenstock and tlit- Rigi-Koth.stock. Beyond these heights, to the 1., (he 
 lake of Sarnen, embosomed in forest, to the r. the haj' of Alpnach, con- 
 nected with the Lake of Lucerne by a narrow strait formed by the Loppcr- 
 berg. a spur of Pilatus. 
 
 From the middle of July to the middle of September , in 
 favourable weather . the hotel is very much frequented (pre- 
 cautions about securing accommodation, see p. 58). The concourse 
 of strangers, composed of such various elements, is of itself a 
 source of no little amusement to the observant spectator. Every 
 grade of society is here represented ; all the languages of Europe 
 combine to produce a very Babel of incongruous sounds. At 
 sunset all are attracted to the summit by one common object. 
 Loiterers arrive breathless at the point towards which they have 
 been toiling so many hours. An indifferent performer on the Al- 
 pine horn awakens the echoes, and sorely tries the temper by his 
 illtimed exertions. When the sun has at length disappeared, the 
 prosaic attractions of the supper-table become predominant. Not- 
 withstanding the great number of rooms that the hotel contains, 
 it is not an uncommon occurrence for late, comers to be con- 
 signed to the salle-a-manger for the questionable night's repose 
 such an apartment is likely to afford. 
 
 Half an hour before sun-rise, the Alpine horn sounds the 
 reveille. All is again noise, bustle, and confusion. As the sun, 
 it is well known , will wait for no man , impromptu toilettes of 
 the most startling description are indulged in. A red Indian in 
 his blanket would on these occasions be thought extremely well 
 and appropriately dressed, and have many imitators , for though 
 the custom is interdicted under the penalty of a line, a blanket 
 is too ready and tempting a garment to be disregarded. The 
 sleepy eye soon brightens, the limb stiffened by the exertions 
 of the preceding day is lithe again in that exciting moment ; the 
 huge hotel is for the nonce without a tenant; and if the eager 
 crowd are not, like the disciples of Zoroaster, ready with one 
 accord to prostrate themselves before the great source of light 
 and life in which they see the fitting emblem of all good , it 
 may be safely premised there are few whose thoughts do not 
 turn in silent adoration towards that mighty hand which created 
 'the great light which rules the day', and whose first beams 
 are now being so anxiously expected. 
 
 A faint streak in the E., which pales by degrees the bright- 
 ness of the stars , is the precursor of the birth of day. This 
 insensibly changes to a band of gold in the extreme horizon ; 
 each lofty peak is in succession tinged with a roseate blush ; 
 the shadows between the Rigi and the horizon gradually melt 
 away; forests, lakes, hills, towns, and villages reveal themselves; 
 all is at first grey and cold, until at length the sun suddenly 
 bursts from behind the mountains, in all his majesty, flooding
 
 Scheideek. RICJI. 22. Route. 65 
 
 the whole, of the superb landscape with light and warmth (coinp. 
 Panorama). 
 
 Amonjr the mo.^t picturesque point< of this magnificent scene, 
 which embraces a circuit of nearly 300 miles , are the Lakes of 
 Zug and Lucerne, which last branches off in so many directions, 
 as almost to bewilder the eye. They approach so close to the 
 foot of the Rigi, that it seems as if a stone might be thrown 
 into them. Eleven other small lakes are also visible. 
 
 For a quarter of an hour before and after sunrise the view 
 is clearest; at a later hour the mists rise and condense into 
 clouds, frequently concealing a great part of the landscape. The 
 chamois-hunter in Schiller's Tell aptly observes : 
 Through the parting clouds only 
 
 The earth can be seen, 
 Far down 'neath the vapour 
 The meadows of green. 
 
 But the mists themselves have a certain charm , rising sud- 
 denly from the depths of the valleys , veiling the Kulm , and 
 struggling against the powerful rays of the sun. The different 
 effects of light and shade, varying so often in the course of the 
 day, are a source of constant admiration to the spectator. At 
 a very early hour the Bernese Alps are seen to the best advan- 
 tage; and in the evening those to the E. of the Bristenstock. 
 Those who have sufficient leisure will not repent devoting 
 several days to the Rigi. In the evening and morning the vast 
 concourse of visitors is a great hindrance to the pensive study of 
 the scene, whilst during the day the lover of nature can without 
 interruption contemplate the mighty prospect around him. When 
 the view lias been sufficiently surveyed , any leisure time may 
 be advantageously devoted to visiting the Staffel, the Rothstock, 
 the Kaltbad, the Klosterli, or even the Scheideek. 
 
 The temperature often varies as much as 45'^ within the 24 
 hrs. ; plaids and shawls, therefore, should not be forgotten. During 
 the prevalence of the S. wind (Fohn) the mountains seem to 
 draw nearer , their jagged outlines become more definite , their 
 tints warmer. The same effect is produced by the W. wind on 
 the Jura, but both are generally the precursors of rain. 
 
 A singular atmospheric Phenomenon is sometimes witnessed on 
 the Rigi, as on some other high mountains. When the vapours rise 
 perpendicularly from the valleys, on the side opposite the sun, without 
 enveloping the mountain itself,"a kind of screen is formed, capable of ex- 
 hibiting the outline of the mountain and any objects )m it. In such a 
 case persons standing on the summit of the Rigi have their shadows cast 
 upon this misty screen in greatly enlarged proportions, encircled by a 
 prismatic halo, which is sometimes double, if the mist is thick. 
 
 The *Rigi-Scheideck fo400'). the ridge of the Rigi running 
 S.E. towards the Lake of Lowerz , with the hotel mentioned at 
 p. 58 couHuands a less extensive view than the Kulm, but also 
 embracing the entire chain of mountains , and some points not 
 visible from the Kulm (see Panorama at th'e inn). The Schei- 
 
 B.EUEKiii:, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 5
 
 66 lioute 'J3. LAKE OF LLOERlNli, 
 
 deck is a chaiuiiiig retreat, quiet and peaceiui , presenting A 
 marked contrast to the incessant bustle of the Kulm. The table- 
 land on the summit, upwards of i M. in length, affords an 
 agreeable promenade; the Dossen (see below) is about '-^/^ hr. 
 distant. 
 
 A good path, which begins at the platform of the hotel 'Zum 
 Schwert', near the KLosterli (p. GOj, leads in 2 hrs. to the Schei- 
 deck, passing at the foot of the Dossen (5515'J (1/4 hr. suflices 
 for the ascent of the Dossen ; charming view over the Lake 
 of Lucerne and the Lnterwalden districts). The route is easily 
 fouiid. The same may be said of that from Gersau to the 
 Scheideck (ascent 81/4, descent 2 hrs.; path steep, but well- 
 kept). On leaving the village a brook is passed, the r. bank of 
 which must be followed; near the Saw-mill (IVi hr.), the path 
 crosses to the 1. bank; 20 min. from the top, a narrow ridge 
 is reached, where a superb view suddenly opens over the lakes 
 of Lowerz and Zug, the Rossberg , Lowerz, Goldau, and Arth. 
 Path from Lowerz, see p. 61. A direct path leads from the 
 hjcheideck to the Kulm, rendering it unnecessary to descend to 
 the Klosterli. Horses and guides (unnecessary) see p. 57. 
 
 23. From Lucerne to Como { Milan j by the St. Gotthard. 
 Lake of Lucerne. 
 
 143 M. Steamboat from Lucerne to Fliielen in 23/4 hrs. ^ Diligence 
 (see below) from Fliielen to Camerlata in 223|4 hrs. Tlirough-tickets for the 
 entire route may be procured at the Post-Office, Lucerne (where coupe- 
 places are most easily secured), and also at the Steamboat-Office. 
 The luggage is weighed and charged for on board the steamers. 
 
 Steamboats 4 or 5 times daily from Lucerne to Fliielen and back, to 
 Waggis in 'Jv, Beckeuried in 1, Gersau li|4, Brunnen (by some services 
 passengers for stat. Treib are disembarked in small boats) I'jz, Fliielen 
 2-*|4 hrs. \ 3 times a day to Alpnach-Gestad, 2 or 3 times a day to Kiisnacht. 
 First class to Fliielen 4 fr. 60 c, 2nd cl. about one-half; return-tickets, 
 available for three days, are issued at one fare and a half, but the journey 
 cannot be broken ; to Fliielen and back 6 fr. Season-tickets at greatly re- 
 duced rates are also issued for the convenience of persons making a pro- 
 longed stay on the banks of the lake. — Most of the steamboats to and 
 from Waggis and Fliielen touch at the Rail way- S tat ion at Lucerne 
 (comp. p. 49). — Rowing-boats (p. 60) are seldom used for long ex- 
 cursions ; the tariiy may be consulted at the inns on the lake. 
 
 The wind sometimes changes with extraordinary rapidity, and the 
 boatmen maintain that it blows from a dillerent quarter as each promon- 
 tory is rounded. The most violent is the F'(>hn (the S. wind), which 
 sometimes renders the navigation of the S. bay of the lake (Lake of Uri, 
 p. 72) impracticable for sailing or rowing-boats, and dangerous even for 
 steamboats, in line weather the Bis e (N. wind) usually prevails on the bay 
 of Uri from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m. During the rest of the day a gentle S. wind. 
 
 Caution. Travellers are frequently assailed during their progress by 
 guides, voituriers, touters, etc. They are recommended, therefore, to arrange 
 their plans previously to arriving at their destination, and not allow them- 
 selves to be influenced by the statements of this 'fraternity. 
 
 Distances. Fluelen to Amstag i(^^2■, to Andermatt 24, to the Hospice 
 of St. Gotthard 34, to Airolo 42, to Faido 52»|v, to Bellinzona 78i|4, to 
 Lugano yTij-.-j to Como llT'Ji Engl. M.
 
 ^^e^ 
 
 u 
 
 ^-X -i
 
 LAKE Ot' LLGKKNE. 'J J. Route. 67 
 
 i)iligence« From Fliielcn to Andeimatt in 5 Ins., 7 fr. 10 c. \ Airolo 
 9 hrs. , 13 fr. lU c. ; Faido Uiji hrs., 13>|-2 fr. ^ Bellinzona I4ijj Lrs., 23 Ir. 
 20 c. ; Lugano ISij- Ins., 27 tr. 41) c. ; Camerlata 223|4 Ins., 31 fr. 00 c. 
 The diligences over tiie St. Got! hard have three seats in the coupe (very 
 comfortable, booking see above j, and six in tlic interior (the two middle 
 seats inside arc of course to be avoided as alVording little or no view) ; 
 in addition to these there are tv.'o other seats beside the conductor and driver 
 (comp. Introd. IX). 
 
 Carriages. Conveyances may be obtained for which the landlords of 
 the hotels at Fliielen, Andermatt and Hospenthal, Airolo, Faido, Bellinzona, 
 Magadino, Lugano (Hotel du Pare) and Como provide a change of horses. 
 A two -horse carriage, accommodating 4 to 5 persons, from Fliielen to 
 Andermatt or Hospenthal costs 3o fr. 5 trom Andermatt or Hospenihal to 
 Airolo 30 fr. ; Airolo-Faido Ij, Faido-Belliuzona 2j, Belliuzoua-Lugauo 2u 
 (Bellinzona-Magadino 15), Lugauu-Como 25 fr., altogether 150 fr., and a 
 fee of about 24 fr. to the driver in addition (for each station 2 fr. at least) ^ 
 this mode of travelling is, for 4 persons, little dearer than the coupe of 
 the diligence. A written agreement (including fees) should be made with 
 the proprietor of the carriage at Fliielen, Como, Lugano, or Magadino, for 
 the entire journey. In order to procure fresh horses it is only necessary 
 to show this agreement at each stage. Payment is made at the end of 
 the journey. These are the precise charges according to laritf. Extortionate 
 demands are however occasionally made, especially on the Italian side, a 
 spurious printed tarill' being even sometimes exhibited; but these should 
 of course be disregarded, and the assistance of the police appealed to if 
 necessary. — Une-horse carr. (not always to be had) from Fluelen to 
 Amstiig y, to ^^'asen 15, Andermatt or Hospenthal 20 (and back 30) fr., 
 and gratuity. Two -horse carr. from Fliielen to Amstiig 15, to Wasen 
 25, Andermatt or Hospenthal 35 (and back 55) fr., St. Gotthard 50, Airolo 
 65 fr., and gratuity (tarill of xVpr. 19th, 1869). — Omnibus from Flueleu 
 to Altorf 1 fr. 
 
 Pedestrians about to cross the Furca and Grimsel (RR. 32, 33) may 
 drive as far as Klus (p. 75) or Amstag, where the St. Gotthard road, pro- 
 perly speaking, begins to ascend. Amstag to Andermatt i6^l-> M., to hos- 
 penthal lija 31. farther. Those who wish to see the X. side only of the 
 Pass of St. (jotthard need nut proceed beyond Andermatt. 
 
 St. Gotthard Minerals are exposed for sale everywhere, but imposition 
 is frequently practised. 
 
 The Pass of St. Gotthard was the most frequented of all the routes 
 across the Alps until the commencement of the present century, but as it 
 was not practicable for vehicles , it was gradually deserted after the con- 
 struction of the roads over the Simplon (K. 63), the Splvigen (HR. 88, 89) 
 and the Bernardino (R. 91). In 1820 the governments of the cantons of Uri 
 and Tessin commenced the present road , which is lo'J-j ft. in width. It 
 was completed in 1832. In convenience and utility it is second to none of 
 the Alpine passes; and in niagnilicence of scenery the St. Gotthard is far 
 superior to any of the other passes. The St. Gotthard and Bernardino 
 routes are usually practicable for carriages during 4 or 5 months, from the 
 early part of June (the Splugen generally a week earlier), but as late as 
 June large quantities of snosv are occasionally met with. In winter tra- 
 vellers are conveyed across the mountain in small one-horse sledges. After 
 a heavy snow-storm, communication is often interrupted for a whole week. 
 
 Military History. The canton of Uri and the valley of the Reuss were 
 the theatre in which the bloodiest scenes of the campaign of the French 
 against the Austrians and Russians were enacted in 1799. Marches vere 
 made and skirmishes fought on heights previously untrodden except by 
 herdsmen and hunters (comp. R. 76). In May, 1799, the French under 
 Soult retreated into the valley of the Reuss, after having been twice 
 prevented from elfeciing a lauding at Fliielen by the men of I'ri. Froiu 
 the 16th to the 18th of May they contended with the Austrians in the 
 Lcveutina (p. S'2), and on the i9ih they retired to the Grisuns by the
 
 6S Soute 23. LAKE OF LUCEKNE. From Lucerne 
 
 vulley of Ursorn (p. J38). On May 28tL the Austrian general St. Julnn 
 obtained possession of the Teufelshriicke. After a succession of skirmishes 
 the first decisive battle was fought at Ziirich (June 6th), when the Arch- 
 duke Charles was victorious, and the French were compelled to evacuate 
 the country. The Austrians instead of following up their success, remained 
 for two months inactive, thereby enabling their opponents to recover from 
 the blow and procure reinforcements. Thus recruited, the French once 
 more made their appearance in the field. Lecourbe crossed the Surenen 
 (p. 87), Loison the Susten (p. 131). and Gudin forced a passage over 
 the Grimsel and the Furca (pp. 136. 137). The Austrians, attacked on all 
 sides, retreated leisurely to Andermatt (Aug. 14th to 19th). and retired into 
 the Orisons over the Oberalp (p. 312). — About a month after these events, 
 information was brought to the French general Lecourbe., that a con- 
 .siderable army had appeared at the S. base of the St. Gotthard. This in- 
 telligence surprised him, as no hostile manifestation had been expected 
 in that quarter. It was believed that the Russians had retired from the 
 plains of Lombardy across the SpHigen, but the veteran Svicarow had 
 returned at the head of 18.(X)0 infantry and 5000 Cossacks, whom he dis- 
 mounted, iising their horses for the purpose of transporting his artillery. He 
 forced the passage of the St. Gotthard on Sept. 2-4th, and drove the French 
 before him as far as the Lake of Lucerne, where Lecourbe occupied a 
 strong position on the 1. bank of the Eeuss at Seedorf, having previously 
 removed all boats and destroyed the bridge. Sutcarow's purpose was 
 to effect a junction with the Russian forces which had been stationed under 
 Kori>akoic near Ziirich, not having heard of their defeat at the second 
 battle of Zurich (Sept. 25th). But when he found himself unable to pro- 
 cure means of transport, he was compelled to retire through the Schiichen- 
 thal across the Kinzigkulm, through the Muottathal over the Pragcl, and 
 through the Sernfthal over the steep and difficult Panixer Pass to Ilanz 
 (RR. 73. 76, ^0, a masterly retreat without parallel in military annals. 
 Constantlv pursued bv the French . he led his armv successfullv to the 
 valley of the Rhine (Oct. 9th, 1799), with a loss of 3000 men, 'more of 
 whom were killed by the fatigues and dangers of the journey, than by the 
 bullets of the enemy. After his retreat the French once more occupied 
 the canton of Uri as far as the Hospice of the St. Gotthard. which they 
 demolished, using its fragments as fuel. In May, 1800, 15,000 French 
 under Monceij parsed over the St. Gotthard into Italy, at the same time 
 that Napoleon elVected the passage of the Great St. Bernard (p. 237). 
 
 The ** Lake of Lucerne ( 1433') (F/gru?aWsfr7(<er-Sec, or 'Lake 
 of the Four Forest Cantons"), bounded by the cantons of Lri. 
 SchinjZ; Lnterwalden, and Lucerne, is unsurpassed in Switzer- 
 land, and even in Europe, in the grandeur and magnificence of 
 its scenery. Its beautiful banks are also intimately connected 
 with many historical associations, of which Schiller has given us 
 an animated picture in his William Tell. The lake is nearly 
 (Tuciforni in shape , the bay of Lucerne forming the head , the 
 bays of Kiisnacht and Alpnach the arms, and the bay of Enochs 
 and Lake of Uri the foot. Length from Lucerne to Fliielen 
 25 M.; width 1 — 4 -M. ; between the extremities of the two 
 arms 15 M. 
 
 Soon after Lucerne is quitted, the view from the steamboat of 
 the town, with its towers and battlements, is strikingly pictu- 
 resque fcomp. p. 50). To the 1. rises the Eigi, to the r. Pila- 
 tus, in front of the traveller the Biirgenstock and the Blumalpe 
 or vStanser Horn; behind Pilatus . to the 1.. the Bernese Alps 
 gradually become visible, the Schreckhorner, Munch, Eiger, and
 
 lo Como. WAGGIS. '2'i. lioule. 09 
 
 Juiigi'rau ; the Fiiister-Aarhoni only is hidden. The little pro- 
 montory to the 1. is the Meyyenliorn. In front of it lies Altstad 
 (^'old shore', so named because the bank of the lake formerly 
 extended only thus far, both banks of the Reuss from this to 
 Lucerne being mere marshesj, a small island planted ^vith pop- 
 lars-. Imnlediately after Meggenhorn is passed, the lake of Kiis- 
 nacht opens to the 1. , and the bay of Stansstad to the r. , and 
 the central point of the cross formed by the lake is attained, 
 in the distance to the E. , Kiisnacht (p. 48j is visible; near 
 the steamboat, on the 1., stands the ruin of Neu-JJabsbury 
 (^p. 54). To the 8, the frowning, forest- clad Biiryenbery , or 
 Jiuryenstock (^3()G8'j, rises abruptly from the water (^its summit 
 commands a singularly beautiful view of the four arms of the 
 iakej. From this part of the lake the appearance of Pilatus 
 (p. u2j is very striking. Its barren and rugged peaks, seldom 
 entirely free from cloud or mist (p. 54), frown grimly over the 
 cheerful landscape, in marked contrast to the Kigi on the oppo- 
 site side of the lake, the lower slopes of which are covered with 
 gardens, fruit-trees, and houses, while above, forests and green 
 turf clothe it to its very summit. 
 
 Beyond the projecting spur of the Tanzenbury , on a tongue 
 of land to the 1. , are the ruins of the castle of Hertenstein [in 
 the distance the Sclieerhorn (_p. 29(5), with its two horns antl 
 glaciers, is a conspicuous object]. 
 
 Waggis iConcordia, K. 'i, h. li/.,, D. 3 fr. ; * Loire, U. I'/'-i, 
 r>. i'/4, A. l^/.), pension G fr. Also several pensions, among 
 them those of Geriy, Zhnmermann-Schurcli, Waldis), surrouiuled 
 by fruit-trees (^chestnuts, almonds, figs), a picturesque village, 
 the garden of Lucerne, is the usual landing-place for the ascent 
 of the liigi which rises in the rear. [Rowing-boat to Lucerne 
 in 2 hrs. 47-2 t"r., Alpnach-Gestad in 2'/.2 hrs. o'/o fr. , see 
 p. i^S; charming walks through Ureppen to Kiisnacfit [p. 4»S), 
 anil to Fitznau.J The next station is 
 
 I'itznau (Fension Ffyfjer), or Vitznau, with its lofty wall of 
 red ruck, the Eothen/lult, in which is the \V(ddisb(Urn, a stalac- 
 tite-grotto about lOUO' long, difficult of access. \ it/.nau is the 
 station for the Rigi Railway, the terminus of which is close to 
 tlie lake [comp. p. 59). 
 
 Two promontories here extend far into the lake, apparently 
 terminating it, the one a spur of the Rigi, the other a part of 
 the Bijrgenstock (^see above). These are aptly termed the Nasen 
 (^noses), and may possibly have been once united. Near the E. 
 Nase the siuiw-clad pyramid of the Tiidi (p. 295) and the two 
 peaks of the Pragel (p. 304) become visible. Beyond this strait 
 the lake takes the name of Lake of Buoclis, from the village of 
 Buochs (liossLi, *Kr€uz), a pleasant rustic retreat, above which 
 rise the Jyuocliser Horn and the Stunser Jiorn [ascent seep. S5).
 
 70 Route 23. GERSAU. From Lucerne 
 
 One-horse carr. from Buochs to Engelberg 12, two-horse 20 fr. 
 and fee fcomp. p. 84"). 
 
 Beckenried (*Sonne ; *n6tel et Pension Feller ; *Mond, R. II/.2, 
 B. 1 fr.; good pension at all about 5 fr.; Stern, on the lake), 
 formerly the place of assembly for the delegates from the Four 
 Forest Cantons. Diligence to vStans twice daily, see p. 84; 
 two-horse carriage to Brienz about 50 fr. . one-horse 30 fr. ; 
 two-horse carr. to Engelberg (p. 85") 25, and back in one day 
 35 fr. Road to Seelisberg. see p. 72. 
 
 On the opposite bank, on a narrow but fertile strip of land, 
 lies the village of 
 
 Gersau (Hotel Milller, with gardens and lake-baths; the land- 
 lord is proprietor of the Rigi-Scheideck (p. 65); R. 2 — 4. B. IV4, 
 L. and A. IV4, D. 3 . S. 2 fr. ; Pension excl. room 5 fr., L. 
 per week 1, A. 2V2 — 4 fr. ; *Sonne') in the Canton of Schwyz, 
 completely enclosed by rocks. Its picturesque houses, scattered 
 in a wide crescent on the slope of the mountain, and the sur- 
 rounding plantations of fruit-trees and chestnuts, give it a very 
 attractive appearance. The village is protected from cold winds, 
 and is therefore recommended as a residence for invalids in 
 spring or autumm. In the ravine behind it is a silk-mill, and 
 above, on the brow of the mountain, the inn on the Rigi-Schei- 
 deck (p. 65). During four centuries this diminutive corner of 
 land, scarcely 8 sq. M. in extent, and with a population of about 
 1000 (Gersau has now 1727 inhab.). enclosed between the 
 Fitznauerstock (4750') and the Hochfluh, boasted of being an 
 independent state , the smallest in the world , till the French 
 deprived it of its rights in 1798. The town -hall bears the 
 following inscription : ^Received into the Confederacy 1315, 
 purchased its freedom 1390, assigned to the Canton of Schwyz 
 1817'. The manners and customs of Gersau are still in some 
 respects peculiar. Not many years ago it was a rendezvous, on 
 the anniversary of the consecration of the church, of all the beggars 
 of the surrounding country, who during three days indulged in 
 fare to which for the rest of the year they were entire strangers ; 
 the three festive days expired, this choice assembly dispersed 
 to their accustomed haunts and avocations. 
 
 The chapel on the bank to the E. of Gersau derives the ap- 
 pellation of Kindlismord (infanticide) from the story, it is hoped 
 an unfounded one. that a poor fiddler, returning from a wedding 
 at Treib, here dashed out the brains of his starving infant against 
 the rocks. The spot is indicated by a black cross. A pictu- 
 resque footpath leads from Gersau to Brunnen by Kindlismord, 
 6 M. ; another to Fitznau, 6 M. 
 
 To the E. rise the barren peaks of the two My then (6243' 
 and 5754'). and at their base, 3 M. inland, lies Schxryz (p. 55): 
 nearer is situated the church of Ingenhohl^ in the distance to
 
 to Como. BRUNNEN. 23. Route. "I 
 
 the r. the Achselhery or Achslenstock (6830') with its crown of 
 bare crags, resembling a mined castle. On the bank of the lake, 
 at the month of the Miiotta, lies the considerable village of 
 
 Brunnen (*Waldstadter Hof on the lake, new flrst-class hotel ; 
 *Adler. with a 'dependance' on the Axenstrasse, R. Vj^, B. 1V4' 
 L. and A. 1 fr. ; '*Curhnus Axenstein, see below: *Ro.o:sli, pension 
 o fr. ; *Pens. Inderbitzi, on the lake; *Pens. Aufdermaur, on 
 the Giitsch; *Hirsch, R. and L. 2. B. 1. D. 2^0 fr. ; lake-baths 
 Y2 fr."), the port of the canton of Schwyz. perhaps the most 
 beantifnlly-sitnated place on the Lake of Lucerne, of late years 
 much frequented, and suitable for a stay of some duration. The 
 boatmen and carriage - drivers of Brumen are noted for the 
 exorbitance of their charges. Ferry to Treib IV2 fr. 
 
 Fine view from the Giitsch, a small eminence behind Brunnen, em- 
 hracing the two arms of the lake and the lovely valley of Schwyz. — A 
 heautifiil walk to Morschach (2l.o6') (2 31.). which may be reached by a 
 good carr. -road from the Axenstrasse. From the 'Curhaus Axenstein 
 (Hotel and Pension), a large establishment, recently erected on an eminence, 
 at the so-called 'Brandli'. and provided with pleasure-grounds, a splendid 
 survey of both arms of the lake may be enjoyed. In a geological point 
 of view the numerous erratic blocks found near Morschach are interesting 
 fcomp. Introd. XIV). — The Stoss (4232'). a chapel on the E. spur of 
 the Frohnalp, commands a fine view, and is the site of a small sanitary 
 cstab. (pension 4 fr.) (a boy'should be taken as guide). — From the -Trohr- 
 alp (5787'), li(-.> hr. S. of the Stoss. a magnificent view (panorama U o fr. -, 
 the fore-ground surpassing that of the viow from the Rigi), embracing the 
 entire Lake of Lucerne (inn on the summit). — Walk on the Axenstrasse 
 (p. 73). — Other excursions; to the Lake of Lowerz (p. 55), returning by 
 Schwyz (p. 55) ; to the Muottathal (p. 303) as far as the fall of the Gestiibt- 
 bach near Ried ; to the Kindlismord Chapel (p. 70) and Gersau (p. 70); 
 to the Riitli (see below); to Seeli.sberg, Bauen etc. (see below); to Tell's 
 Chapel (p. 72); to the Mythen (p. 5.5). 
 
 Opposite Brunnen lies Treib (steamboat-stat., see p. 66). a 
 small harbour in the canton of I'ri, the landing-place for Seelis- 
 berg (2490'), a village 1 hr. above the lake [Pension Hauser, 
 5 fr.). 
 
 The 'Curhaus Sonnenberg, situated near the Chapel of Afan'a-Sonnen- 
 herg (2759'), 20 min. above Set'lisbcrg, consists of two houses sheltered by 
 a wood, and much frequented for the sake of the pure mountain air and 
 the whey-cure, from .Tune to the end of September. Pension 5 fr. and 
 upwards. Beautiful view from the Kan:li, ^\i hr. (in the forest to the r.) 
 over the lake and the plain as far as the Weissenstein. About i]-j hr. S. 
 of the Curhaus lies the picturesque tSi'eJishrrritr Sec, at the precipitous 
 N. base of the Niederbaiien or ' Seelisberger Kulm (6323'), which 
 may be ascended from the Curhaus (guide necessary, 5 fr. and fee) in 
 3'|2 — 4 hrs., or from Emmatten (see below) in 3i|2 hrs. The path (o 
 Emmatten is followed towards the "N., passing the Seelisberg lake; after 
 i|2 hr. the route is to the 1. towards the base of the Bauen. The ascent 
 is steep, and after rainy weather laborious. The narrow path leads part 
 of the way through wood, descending for a .short distance. None but good 
 walkers should attempt the excursion. — The ascent, however, is easier 
 if the path to Emmatten be followed for I hr. ; the route then ascends 
 rapidly across meadows for ^j^ hr.. traverses the wood for J hr., and gra- 
 dually sloping pastures for ^{-z hr. , reaches the chalet (Alpine fare, 
 bed of l>ay if necessary), whence the summit is attained in 40 min. more. 
 The ascent from Emmatten is the shortest, as it begins '14 hr. from tin; 
 village. The view is preferred by many to that from the Rigi.
 
 72 Route 23. TELL'S PLATTE. From Lucerne 
 
 From Bcckenried (p. TO) to Scclisberg 2i|2 lirs., picturesque road 
 as far as Emmatten ('Pension Schrmeirg, from o fr. ; liatlis, wliej-, etc. I, 
 the lake being visible up to this point. If the traveller intend to proceed 
 to Bauen (charmingly situated on a bay of the Lake of Uri), to be ferried 
 from thence to Fliielen, he should take the path towards the lake, 3J4 M. 
 beyond Seelisberg, where the precipitous walls of rock (the Hchicdndijtuh, 
 the Tei//els>Hihiste/\ see Schiller's Tell, Act IV, Scene 1), rise from the 
 lake, and thence proceed by the old chateau of Beroldingea to Baneii. 
 This is a very delightful walk. 
 
 Near Bruiiiien , the 8. arm of the lake, called the Lake of 
 Uri, commences. The banks approach each other, and the preci- 
 pices become almost perpendicular. Lofty snow-clad mountains, 
 often partially veiled with clouds, are visible through the gorges 
 which open at intervals. 
 
 At the extremity of the sharp angle which here abuts on the 
 lake, a short distance from the W. bank, the Wytenstein, or 
 Mytenstein, a pyramid of rock, 80' in height, rises from the 
 water, bearing the inscription in colossal gilt letters: 'Dem 
 Sanger Tell's, Frledrich Schiller. Die Ur-Cantone, 1859.' (To 
 Frederick Schiller^ the bard of Tell. The Swiss Cantons. 1859.) 
 The rock bears a second inscription to the memory of a young 
 Swiss officer, who lost his life by an accident at this spot some 
 years ago. 
 
 About 1/4 hr. farther, below Seelisberg (p. 71), and 5 min. 
 from its laiiding-place, are the three springs of the Rutli, which 
 trickle from an artificially planted rock , and are surrounded by 
 pretty grounds. This plateau, with the *inn built in 1868, be- 
 longs to the Confederation. The spot is thus described by Walter 
 Fiirst in Scldllers Tell: 
 
 "On the lake's left bank, 
 
 As we sail hence to Brunnen, right against 
 
 The 3Iythenstein, deep hidden in the wood 
 
 A meadow lies, by shepherds called the Kootli, 
 
 Because the wood has been uprooted there. 
 
 'Tis where our canton's boundaries verge on yours ; 
 
 Thither by lonely by-paths let us wend 
 
 At midnight and deliberate o'er our plans^. 
 At this romantic spot, on the memorable night of Nov. 7th, 1307, 
 33 men, from Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden, assembled and bound them- 
 selves by an oath to be faithful to each other, and not to rest until they 
 had ejected their oppressors from the soil. Tradition relates thai on the 
 spot where the three confederates, Werner 8iaitjfac]ier of Steinen in Schwyz, 
 Erni (Arnold) of Alelchthal in Unterwalden, and Walter Fiirst of Atting- 
 hausen in Uri, stood when the oath was taken, three fountains sprang up, 
 over which a hut was subsequently erected. 
 
 About 20 min. later, the steamer passes Sissikon (Pension 
 I ri-Kothstock. 4 — 41/2 fr.) on the E. bank. The rugged Achslen- 
 stock (p. 71) is visible through the gorge. The steamboat next 
 reaches Tell's Platte, a ledge of rock at the base of the A.cenfluh 
 or Axenherg (3353'), where, shaded by overhanging trees and 
 almost washed by the waters of the lake , stands the romantic 
 Chapel of Tell, containing a few rudely-executed frescoes of scenes 
 from Tell's history. It is said to have been erected by the Canton
 
 to Como. AXEN.STRASSE. 23. Route. to 
 
 of I'ri on the spot wlierc the Swiss liberator spran;? out of Gessler's 
 boat, and to have been consecrated in 1388 (31 years after the death 
 of TellJ, in the presence of 114 persons \vho had been personally 
 acquaijited with the hero. On the Snnday after Ascension-day, 
 mass is performed here , and a patriotic sermon preached ; this 
 service is attended by the inhabitants of the neighbonring shores 
 in large numbers , their boats being all gaily decorated for the 
 occasion. Near the chapel the lake is 800' in depth. The pe- 
 culiaV, contorted formation of the calcareous strata of the Axen- 
 lluh attracts the attentioji even of the unscientific. The ne\\ 
 * Axenstrasse , leading from Gersau to I'runnen and Fliielen, 
 generally lying low on the bank of the lake, and affording a 
 succession of beautiful views, is also extremely interesting from 
 its bold construction, and in several places penetrates the rock 
 by means of tunnels. On this road, immediately above Telfs 
 Platte, 21/2 M. from Fliielen, is situated TeU's PLatte Hotel, 
 K. 1, B. 1, A. '/2 ^^-i Pension 5 fr. ; also a steamboat-station. 
 
 As soon as the chapel is passed, Flueten becomes visible. The 
 scenery of this portion of the lake (from the chapel to Fliielen 
 20 min.) is strikingly imposing. Opposite the 'Platte" on the W. 
 bank lies Jsleten, at the mouth of the Isenthal (worthy of a visit), 
 which branches olf in two directions near the village of the same 
 name (rustic *innj : one branch (to the 8.) is tlie Grosse Isen- 
 thal, bounded by the Enyeiberyer-Eothstock (lj25(3'j. the other the 
 Kleine Isenthal, terminated by the Lri-Iiothstock ('.!(i20'J. 
 
 Through the former of these two valleys (the Grossthalj, the tra- 
 veller can either proceed to Wolfenscliiess (p. 80), passing (to the W.) be- 
 tween the Jlohenbriexen (7898') and the Kaiserstuhl, over the Bchdne(jg-Pass 
 (G8'27', very steep on the farther side), and hy Ober-Kickenbach (2921'j; oi' 
 he may take the route to Engelberg (p. 80), to" the S.AV., by the Kothgriitli. 
 Through the other valley (Klein thai) a rugged path leads to the rocky 
 terrace ' im Kessel", passing the Mu.^enalp (2 hrs.), ascending steep strata 
 of slate, then crossing a glacier with a gentle slope on the 8. side of the 
 mountain to the summit of the • TJri - Rothstock (9021'), in 8— y hrs. An 
 easier, hut considerahly longer path leads hy the Sc/ilosis/elsen in the Uross- 
 thal over the tSc/iicarzjii-n-Glacier hy the Hamjbaum-Alp to the BliunUaalp, 
 and across the rocks (disintegrated hy exposure to the weather) to the 
 summit. If the traveller wishes to reach the top early in the morning, 
 he must spend the night in the chalet on the Hanghaum - Alp. Descent 
 through the Orossthal (see above); guide necessary, 15 fr. a day. trora 
 Engelherg the summit may also he attained in < — 8 hrs. The Lri-Ki)th- 
 stock is, like the Titlis, almost perpendicular on the E. and 8.E. sides, 
 and is composed of gigantic and contorted limestone rocks, torn asunder 
 and piled one on another in fantastic hut magniticent confusion. The view 
 from the summit is extremely imposing: to the S. is the chain of the 
 Ali)S, with the 8entis at their E. extremity: immediately helow lies the 
 Lake of Lucerne at a depth of 8IAI/; to the X.E. and N. the view emhraces 
 the Kigi, I'ilatus, and the Entlebuch mountains, the lower hills of >". 
 Switzerland, and the plains of liermany. 
 
 On the ridge between the two peaks of the I ri- Rothstock 
 lies a glacier distinctly visible; on the 1. is the Git^clieii (801);')'), 
 rising abruptly from the lake, with its sununits resembling a 
 castle. Between Fliielen atid Seedorf (1447', the village to the
 
 74 Bonte '23. ALTORF. From lAicerne 
 
 T.. with a convent"), the Renss (see below) flows into the lake. 
 The valley of the Reiiss is bounded by the huge pyramid of the 
 BrhfenMoek {10.085'). Above Fliielen rise the Great and Little 
 Wwdaelle (10.463'"). 
 
 25V,s M. Fluelen (1433'), Ital. Flora (*Adler, R. from 2, P. 
 11/2, D. 3, A. and L. 1 fr. ; *Kreuz, moderate; Tell; all near 
 the quay; Baths in the lake, on the Axenstrasse , 1/.2 M. from 
 Fluelen. Carriages, see p. 67), the port of Fri. Behind the 
 church is the small castle of Rudenz, which formerly belonged 
 to the family of Attinghausen. The Reuss has been here con- 
 verted into a canal (V2 ^^- "^^alk, or ^^hr. by boat to its influx). 
 The St. Gotthard route, as far as Andermatt, is most interesting 
 ground for the botanist. 
 
 Altorf (1535') or TJri {""Adler or Post, R. I1/.2, B. 1 fr. ; 
 *Schlussel.; ^Lowe; Sonne'). 2 M. from Fliielen, situated in a 
 fertile valley surrounded by mountains, is the capital of the 
 canton of Uri , with a pop. of 2724 (50 Prot.). The church 
 contains (over the S. entrance) a 'Nativity' by Vandyck; in the 
 N. chapel an 'Entombment' by Carracci; adjacent is a marble 
 Madonna in relief, by H. Imhof of Rome, placed here in 1848. 
 
 Thi.s pleasant little town f rebuilt after a con f! aeration in 1799) would 
 have little interest for travellers, if tradition did not point it out as the 
 scene of the exploits of Tell, which resulted in the liberation of Switzer- 
 land from the Austrian yoke. — A Colonml Statue of Tcll^ in plaster, pre- 
 .sented to Altorf in 1861 by the riflemen of Ziirich, is said to occupy the 
 spot whence the intrepid archer aimed at the apple placed on the head of 
 his son at the command of the tyrant Gessler. At the base is an inscription 
 from Schiller's Tell. About 150 paces from this stands a fountain, with a 
 statue of Besler, the bailiff of the villasre (on one side of the banner are 
 the arms of the canton, the head of a bull ; on the other the arms of the 
 village), erected at his own expense ! Tradition identifies this spot with 
 that of the lime-tree by which Tell's child stood during the agonizing 
 moment when he awaited the arrow of his father, and which is said to 
 have flourished here till 1567. It is maintained by some that the lime- 
 tree was thirty paces farther back, on the ground where the tower now 
 stands: the latter is, however, known to have existed in the 14th century. 
 On its sides are frescoes representing Tell's celebrated feat with his bow, 
 his leap from the boat, and the death of Gessler, and below: 'The battle 
 with Prince Leopold at Morgarten, Xov. 15th, 1315' (see p. 301). 
 
 The Capuchin Monastery, above the church, claims to be the 
 most ancient in Switzerland. It commands a beautiful view; so 
 also the neighbouring Pavilion Waldeck. (Ascent by the tower, 
 or above the statue of Tell.) Above the convent lies the Bann- 
 wald, a 'sacred grove', in which the woodman's axe is proscribed, 
 as it protects Altorf from the falling rocks (see Schiller's Tell, 
 Act m. Scene 3). 
 
 On the r., beyond the town, is situated a Convent, on the 1. 
 the Arsenal; farther on, to the 1. Burglen (1804') (*Tell, mode- 
 rate, suitable for a prolonged stay), a village, picturesquely situ- 
 ated on a height at the entrance of the Schachenthal , the birth- 
 place and home of Tell. The supposed site of his house is
 
 to Comn. AMSTAG. 93. Route. /O 
 
 oociipied by a Chapel^ erected in 1522, the walls of which are 
 painted with scenes from his life. The inhabitants of the 
 Schachenthal [through which a bridle-path leads over the Klan- 
 sen-Pass to the Baths of Stachelberjr fp. 294) in the Linththal], 
 are said to be the handsomest race in Switzerland. 
 
 The road here crosses the rapid Schachenbach in its artificial 
 bed, near its junction with the Reuss. The large meadow on 
 the r. near the bridge is used as a place of assembly by the 
 cantonal authorities. 
 
 The Constitution of the Canton of Uri (pop. 14.800, Rom. Cath.) is 
 purely domorratic. The supreme power is vested in the people, who as- 
 semhie on the first Sunday in May in the ahove-mentioned meadow fLands- 
 gpmeindeplatz) to consult on the affairs of the canton. Every male in- 
 habitant who has attained his twentieth year, the clergy excepted, is en- 
 titled to speak. The dignitaries, on horseback, with the Landammann at 
 their head, march in grand procession to the place of assembly; in front 
 is a small detachment of military, next a hand, then the banner of the 
 canton borne by ushers in yellow and black unifonns, followed by two 
 men in ancient costume of the same colours, bearing the two horns of the 
 'Bull of Uri\ The subjects to be taken into consideration are proclaimed 
 to the assembled multitude from a semi-circular stage erected for the 
 purpose. Each orator is heard in turn, then the voting (by show of hands) 
 begins. At the close of the proceedings, the Landammann and other dig- 
 nitaries resign their powers; they are cither re-elected, or others arc 
 chosen in their stead. 
 
 The handsome church among fruit-trees on the 1. is that of 
 Schadorf. 
 
 On the opposite side of the Reuss the church-tower of Atiinghavsen 
 and the ruins of the castle of that name are visible on the r. In this 
 castle Werner von AttlngJiausen, the last but one of his race, mentioned 
 by Schiller in his William Tell, died in 1307. Walter Fiirst fp. 72), one 
 of the three confederates of the Riitli and father-in-law of Tell, was also 
 a native of Attinghausen ; the house now tenanted by Herr Engstler, i.? 
 said to have been his dwelling. 
 
 174 ^I- BotzUngen. Near (3 M.) Klus , opposite to the vil- 
 lage of Ersifelden. the road approaches the Reuss. (Path from 
 Erstfelden to the Surenen-Pass see p. 78.) To the 1. rise the 
 rugged peaks of the Little Windgelle, or S€xrel}.<itork (9846'), and 
 the adjacent Great Windaelle or Kalkstock (10.463'). 
 
 The Valley of Ers f iClden , on the 1. bank of the Reuss, opens 
 near the parish church, and extends to the Schlossberff Glacier (over which 
 a fatiguing path leads in 10 — 11 hrs. to Engelberg ; guide necessary), a 
 walk of X hrs. between steep and lofty mountains. It contains two Alpine 
 lakes, the gloomy Fai/lensce (i|i hr. from the glacier) and the Oi'er.'^ee (^\i hr. 
 beyond). The Fai/lenbac/i, which flows out of the latter, forms a beautiful 
 cascade. The whole excursion occupies 10 to 11 hrs.; guide, Jon. Piintener 
 at Klus. 
 
 On the road to (^^fo M.) Silinen (1771') a beautiful view is 
 obtained of the pyramid of the Bristenstock (10.085'), which 
 occupies the entire background , and is visible from base to 
 summit. Near the chapel of the 'fourteen champions' stands the 
 tower of the ancient castle of the noble family of Silinen. 
 
 lOVoAmstag (1713') (*c«?^ern [Post]: *Krmz.; *Hirsch; Lowe; 
 in all, R. 1'/.,, P.. 1 fr.), a small, substantially built village, 
 beautifully situated at the foot of the Bristenstock and the Wind-
 
 76 Route 23. MADERANER THAL. Frojn Lucerne 
 
 gelle , near the coiflneiice of the Kcirstelenhach and the Reiiss, 
 at the mouth of the Matleraiier Thai, through which the Karsteleii- 
 bach flows. 
 
 The 'Maderaner Thai (4 hrs. in length from Bristen to the Hufi 
 Glacier), enclosed by lofty mountains (^. the Great and Little Windgelle, 
 the Great and Little liuciien, the Scheerhorn ; 6. the Bristenstock, VVeiten- 
 alpstock, Oberalpstock, and Hiitistock), and traversed by the impetuous 
 Adrsteleiibach, is rich in picturesque and imposing scenery, and has been 
 more frequently visited since the erection of the inn (see below). The 
 path (longer route by the ritatfeln see below) crosses the Karstelenbach at 
 AmstJig and ascends rapidly either to the r. (iJ4hr. longer) or to the left 
 through forest, past the CiiapeL of St. Antony to (3j4 hr.) the hamlet Bristen 
 (refreshments at the cure's). Here the path slightly descends and crosses 
 to the r. bank of the foaming Karstelenbach. After 7 min. the bridge to 
 the r., leading to the narrow Etzlithal (see below) is to be avoided. After 
 25 min. the path recrosses to the 1. bank (tine view from the bridge) and 
 leads to the (5 min.) houses '■Am Schattigen Berg\ It then ascends the 
 meadows to the (4U min.) inn of the Luaytnatutz., and in 5 min. more to 
 the Cross of the same name, which commands a tine view (during the 
 ascent the fall of the Golzernbach is seen on the opposite side of the 
 valley). Then across the Griessenbach, partly through pine -forest, to the 
 chalets of Stossi. The path crosses the brook at a jSaic-tnill, leads between 
 the pine-trees, and passes the houses (3|4 hr.) on the Balmicald. In *J4 hr. 
 more the "Hotel Alpenclub, recommended as head - quarters for excursions 
 among the Tiidi-group, is attained. Fine view from the garden. Interest- 
 ing walk (2 — 6 hrs. there and back) to the "Hilfi-Glacier ; from the inn a 
 rocky eminence is reached in ^n hr. , whence a tine survey is obtained of 
 this vast ice -cataract; then a descent of l'|2 hr. to the extremity of the 
 glacier, where the Karstelenbach issues from it: across the latter to the 
 waterfalls of the Laminembach and the ■ Stauberbachy descending from the 
 Britnnitlial (especially imposing towards evening: best point of view a 
 green hill rising from the bottom of the valley). Keturn-route to the inn 
 by the chalets of Gujf'ern and Balmicald. — lo the traveller returning to 
 Amstag the path (6 hrs.) by the titajfebiy the lofty pastures on the M. 
 slope of the valley, is recommended : from the inn (with guide) in 2ij-2 hrs. 
 to the Alp Bernetsmati (magnificent view; immediately opposite rises the 
 huge Gheralpstock, 10,925'); then across the Golzern Alps, by the lonely 
 Oolzern-See, in which trout abound, down to (3 hrs.) Bristen. — Interest- 
 ing glacier -excursion (ll'i^hrs. , good guides necessary) across the Hiifi 
 Glacier and the Claridengrat to the Baths of rf t aclielb e rg 
 (p. 2U4): to the Hiifi Alp 2i|4hrs. ; line view from an eminence to the 1.; 
 then a steep ascent, and after 4() min. down to the Hiifi Glacier^ the ex- 
 tensive snow-fields of which are traversed without great difficulty to the 
 pass of the Claridengrat (9t43'), at the 8. base of the Claridenstock (l(t,i(i9'), 
 a gradual ascent of 8 — 'd^\i hrs. Then across tlie Claridenfirn (the rock on 
 the A"., completely perforated by an aperture in the middle, is the 
 Bockischingel) a descent in a straight direction, by the Altenorenalp and 
 the Aiiengiiter (p. 294) to Stachelberg (5 hrs.); or to the r. to the Uj)j)er 
 JSand-Alp (p. 'i^jo) in 2i,4 , and thence in 6 hrs. to Stachelberg (a very 
 interesting route). Those who select the latter may, if fatigued, sleep at 
 the chalets of the Sandalp (bed of hay), and descend to Stachelberg the 
 following morning, (l^or this route and the ascent of the Tudi, see p. 295.) 
 — By the Brunni Tass to Uissen t is (Sij-; hrs.), a grand excursion, but 
 inferior to the last; a trustworthy guide necessary. The path ascends on the 
 S. side of the valley by (lij4 hr.) Kinderbiihl to the (2 hrs.) Brunni Glacier, 
 which annually alters its form and requires caution. In 2 hrs. more the 
 culminating point is reached (8970'), commanding a superb view of the 
 Oberalpstock. Hence a descent through the wild Aclettat/ial to (3 hrs.) 
 Acletta and ( ij4 hr. ) Bissentis (p. 311). — From Amstag through the 
 Etzlithal and across the KreuzliPass to 8edrun (8 hrs.), a fa- 
 tiguing walk: to the pass (171(»') in 5'J2 hrs., whence the Strimthal is de- 
 scended to Sedrun (p. 311).
 
 ^
 
 to Coino. GO.SCHENEN. -J^. Routt. 77 
 
 Tho Oberalpstock (10,925'), ascciukd trom the iladcraiiortliul, is a 
 strikingly grnnrl point nf view. Ascent from the inn to the Bnmni Pass 
 (see above) 5'(i hrs. ; thence to the r. , over snow and loose stones to 
 the summit in 2 hrs. more. 
 
 The -Bristenstock (10,085'), ascended from Amstiig (in 7, down in 5 hrs., 
 with guide), is recommended to mountaineers. It aflbrds an admirable 
 survey of the mountains of the Reuss and Maderaner valleys. 
 
 At the bridge over the Reuss, beyond Anistag, the St. Gott- 
 liard route, which here rises above tlie bed of the valley, strictly 
 speaking, commences; on the 1. is the mighty pyramid of the 
 Bristenstock, while the foaming Reuss Tushes through the ravine 
 below, forming a succession of waterfalls. In the early part of 
 summer, huge masses of avalanche-snow, presenting the appearance 
 of earth or stone detritus, lie in some of the gorges, and do not 
 melt until the height of summer. Beyond 
 
 IntscM f2190') (IV2 M. from Amstag) a fall of the Intschi- 
 tdpbdcJi is passed. A picturesquely situated bridge carries the 
 road again to the r. bank of the Reuss. A short distance far- 
 ther the road crosses the Fellihach , on the banks of which the 
 violet-moss (a reddish lichen, with violet-scent) grows plentifully 
 on the rocks. On an eminence on the opposite bank stands the 
 lianilet of Gurtnellen. Beyond the village of Wyler is a third 
 bridge, the Pfaffenspruvg ('priest's leap') ('2622'}, by which the 
 joad recrossos to the 1. bank. Far below, the river is precipi- 
 tated through its narrow gorge. View beautiful in both direc- 
 tions. The road crosses the impetuous Mayenhach ( May en- Reuss)., 
 which rises on the Susten (R. 31), shortly before reaching 
 
 (6 M.) Wasen (3010') (*Ochs, R. 1, B. IV2 fr., : *H6tel des 
 ALpes; Krone), a considerable village with loftily situated church 
 (magnificent view fron\ the terrace). The footpath ascending 
 to the r. , 60 yds. beyond the bridge . cuts off the windings of 
 the road. 
 
 Near (2/4 M.) Wattingen is the fourth bridge over the Reuss, 
 below which is a beautiful fall of the Rohralpbarh to the r. The 
 village consists of a few roadside houses, one of which , bearing 
 a representation of the Riitii conspiracy, is said to have been 
 the original dwelling of the Barons of Wattingen. 
 
 By the next {^/^ M.) bridge (ScJwnibriirk) the I. bank of the 
 Ifeuss is reached. Near (3/^ :\I.) Goschenen (361o') (*RossU, 
 R. 11/2- B- t D. 17.2 fr.; Hotel des Aipe.<K on the 1. of the road, 
 is the Teufehstein. a huge mass of rock. ^Magniticent glimpse of 
 the Goschenenthal , VNhich here opens, and is traversed by the 
 Goschenen Reuss; in the background, beyond the solitary Guschenen- 
 Alp, the valley is terminated by the Winterbenj (10.850'), from 
 which the Dammafirn , an imposing glacier , descends in two 
 branches. 
 
 By the JJdderUbruck (3810'). the sixth bridge, the r. bank of
 
 V8 Route -JJ. DEVIL'S BRIDGE. rroin Lucerni 
 
 the iieuss is regained. Here, about 1/4 M. beyond Gosclieneii. 
 the sombre and rocky detiie of the '^'Schbllenen (2 M. longj begins, 
 bounded by vast and almost perpendicular walls of solid gra- 
 nite , at the base of which dashes the impetuous Keuss. The 
 road ascends the mountain by numerous windings, most of which 
 may be avoided by selecting the footpath or the old bridle- 
 path. Beyond a few of these windings , the now disused Long 
 Brldye is passed (pedestrians save time by crossing it). Then 
 by the Sprenyibruck, the seventh bridge, the road returns to the 
 1. bank. The road in the Scholleneu is much exposed to ava- 
 lanches, and is, at one of the most dangerous spots, protected 
 by a gallery, 80 yds. in length, at the two extremities of whic'i 
 are the arms of Lri. 
 
 The *Devirs Bridge (21/2 M. from Goschenen) or Teufels- 
 briicke (the eighth), in the midst of a scene of wild desolation, 
 is now reached (41329'). The Reuss here forms a beautiful fall, 
 which is precipitated into the abyss 100' beneath, while its spray 
 bedews the bridge above. The wind (facetiously called 'Hutschelm', 
 or 'hat-rogue', by the natives) sometimes comes down the gorge 
 in violent gusts, and endangers the hats of unwary travellers. 
 
 The new bridge, constructed of granite in 1830, has a single 
 arch of 26' span. The old bridge, still in existence 20' below, 
 is now disused and entirely overgrown with moss. 
 
 A battle between the Austrians and French took place here on Aug. 
 14th, 179y. The former had taken up a strons^ position near the bridge, 
 but were unable to withstand the impetuous attack of the French. They 
 therefore blew up the small side-arch, in consequence of which hundreds 
 of soldiers were precipitated into the abyss, and communication was 
 cut oil". The French then scaled the r. bank of the Reuss, and compelled 
 the Austrians to retire in the night. This advantage, however, was not 
 long maintained; a month later Huwarow marched over the St. Gotthard 
 and pressed hard upon the French, who had filled the Urner Loch (a tunnel 
 constructed in ITUTj with masses of rock. The obstacles were, however, 
 removed, and the road re-opened. Near the ruins of the Teufelsbriicke 
 the Russians found themselves exposed to a murderous fire, in spite of 
 which they forced a passage, and drove the French back as far as the 
 Lake of Lucerne. 
 
 Immediately beyond the Teufelsbriicke the road winds up- 
 wards past a chapel to the (5 min.) Urner Loch 7, a tunnel 
 80 yds. long, 15' high and 17' wide, cut through the solid rock 
 in 1707. Until the construction of the new road this gallery was 
 only broad enough for pedestrians and horses, but will now admit 
 two carriages abreast. Prior to 1707 a hanging chain -bridge, 
 the Stdubende Brilcke^ conducted the traveller round the Teufels- 
 stein, through a constant shower of spray. 
 
 "Black yawning a portal, thy soul to allnght, 
 
 Yet beyond h there smiles bat a land of delighti 
 
 Where the auiumn in marriage is xuet with the spring''. >icfiHU'i'.
 
 io t'omo. 
 
 AiSDKllMATT, 2 J. iiouU 79 
 
 The Valley of liri or Uiseien, which the road enters on 
 emerging from the gloomy Lrner Loch, t'ormb a striking contrast 
 to the savage region just traversed. This peaceful valley (p. ISiSj, 
 with its rich pastures, is watered by the Reu&s, and surrounded 
 by lofty barren mountains partially covered with snow. Before 
 the Keuss had forced a way for itself by the SchoUenen (p. 77), 
 this valley was in all probability a lake. Corn flourishes here 
 to a very limited extent, and trees are scarce. Winter lasts 
 nearly 6 months, and during the brief summer tires are often 
 necessary. The 1400 inhab. of the valley gain their livelihood 
 by feeding cattle, and conveying travellers and tlieir luggage 
 dcross the St. Gotthard. 
 
 131/) M. Andei-matt (4730') or Urseren, Italian Orsera 
 {^'St. Gotthard, K. 2, B. IV2, ^- 3, A. 3/4 fr. ; post and telegr. 
 office opposite; Diet Kbniye; ^ Hotel OberaLp , new; *BelLevuej 
 a large new estab. on the Uberalp road; Krone), 1 M. from the 
 Teufelsbriicke, is the principal village (G57 inhab.) of the vaUey. 
 Adjoining the church, which is believed to date from the time 
 of the Lombards, is a charnelhouse , the coping of which is or- 
 namented with skulls bearing inscriptions (comp. p. 47). From 
 the *MariahiLf chapel , above the JSt. Gotthard inn , a good 
 survey of the valley is obtained : in the background the Furca 
 with its inn, to the 1. the Mutthorn ; a few paces behind the 
 chapel, the 8ix-Madun , or Badus (see below), is visible; to 
 the E. in long zigzags ascends the road over the Oberalp (K. 78). 
 
 The pine -copse at the foot of the Annabery and its glacier, 
 much thinned by the French, Austrians, and Russians in 1799, 
 protects the village from avalanches, and is therefore sacred from 
 the axe of the woodman. 
 
 The tine Collection of St. Gotthard Minerals of the late 
 chaplain has been purchased by the proprietor of the 'Three 
 Kings', and is exhibited in a small house opposite. — M. xsayer- 
 Donazians has a good collection of minerals and nat. hist, objects 
 for sale at moderate prices. 
 
 From Andermatt by the Oberalp to Dissentis in the valley of 
 the Vorder-Khein (Grisons), see K. 78. — From Andermatt over 
 the Furca and Grimsel, see KK. 33,32. 
 
 The Six-Madun or Badus CijG16'), a vast triangular pyramid of rock 
 forming the closing barrier of the (Jberland of the Orisons, is frequently 
 ascended ( in 4i|2 hrs.) from Andermatt ; a fatiguing walk, guide necessary 
 (ascent from Sedrun less laborious and shorter, p. 311). 1 he traveller may 
 then descend to the Toma-8ee tp.311), and thence to the valley of the 
 Vorder-Rhein. The summit, which consists of rugged heaps of gneiss hlocks, 
 commands a view of innumerable peaks of the Alps of the Grisons, Bern, 
 and the Valais, with their snow-lields and glaciers, and of the Vorder- 
 Rheinthal in its entire extent. 
 
 On the way from Andermatt to Hospenthal the Glacier of 
 St. Anna is a conspicuous object, high above the mountain-ridge 
 on the 1.
 
 80 Route l>:i. ST. (iOTTHAKI). From Lucerne 
 
 Hospeuthal ( 4787' ) (Meyer hot", a large building boyond the 
 village, R. 2, B. l'J2, D. 3, Pension 6 fr. ; '-'Lowe, more moderate), 
 IV2 ^- from Andermatt, derives its name from a hospice long 
 since suppressed. The tower on the hill is said to be the 
 remains of a castle built by the Lombards. The magazine (Sust) 
 at the end of the village is now disused. 
 
 The St. Gotthard Road now ascends the mountain in numerous 
 windings through a desolate valley, on the 1. bank of that branch 
 of the Reuss which flows from the Lake of Lucendro, and below 
 Hospenthal unites with the other branch descending from the 
 Furca (p. 139). From its source to Andermatt the Reuss has a 
 fall of 200', and from Andermatt to Fliielen 3000' more. It is 
 crossed for the last time in the canton of Tessin , not far from 
 its source (the Lake of Lucendro., 6834'; to the r., but not visible), 
 by i\ie Rodunt-Bridge {&lb?>'\ I74M. from the culminating poinf 
 of the pass. At the summit of the Pass of St. Gotthard (6936') 
 the road passes between several small lakes. 
 
 The remark is sometimes made, that although the St. Gotthard 
 is frequently mentioned, it is never seen. This is to a certain 
 extent true, inasmuch as it is not a distinct peak, but an entire 
 mountain-group which bears this name. The peaks to the W. 
 are the Fibbki (8996'), the Pizzo di Vinei, or Lucendro (9708'), 
 the Winterhorn, or Piz Orsino (8750'); farther W. the Leckihorn 
 (10,007'). the Pizzo Pesciora (10,410'), and the Pizzo Rotondo 
 (10.650 ft.). The last of these is the loftiest and least accessible 
 of the St. Gotthard peaks. To the E., immediately above the 
 summit of the pass, rises the Sasso di Sun Goftardo (8983'),- 
 beyond it the Monte Prosa (9849 ft.), and still farther N. E. the 
 *Pizzo Centrale, or Tritthorn (10,006'), erroneously termed Blau- 
 berg on Dufour"s map. The latter has frequently been ascendetl 
 (in 31/2 — 4'/2 hrs.) since the execution of a panorama of the 
 view by Heim (guide 6 fr., and 1 fr. gratuity for each person). 
 Path constructed by the landlord of tlie Hotel de la Prosa. Last 
 part fatiguing. Magnificent view ; the Piz Basodino, the Monte 
 Rosa group, Galenstock, and Todi are the most conspicuous 
 mountains. 
 
 10 M. Albergo del S. Gottardo (6867'), post-stat., 1/4 M. 
 to the S. of the culminating point , a large gloomy inn in the 
 Italian style. Opposite to it are the Hospice (telegr. stat.) and 
 the small *H6teL de la Prosa (R. and L. 2, B. 1 fr.), recently 
 erected. The Hospice, erected at the expense of the canton of 
 Ticino , contains 15 beds for poor travellers , who are received 
 gratuitously (upwards of 10.000 are entertained annually). New- 
 foundland dogs of a superior race may be purchased here at prices 
 varying from 75 to 400 fr. St. Gotthard minerals at fixed prices. 
 From the hospice to Airolo is a walk of I72 ^r. (by short cuts), 
 ascent 3 hrs. ; the diligence takes the same time.
 
 to Como. 
 
 AIROLO. 23. Route. 81 
 
 In winter and spring the snow is often piled up in heaps 
 40' high , and sometimes remains unmelted on each side of the 
 road throughout the summer (comp. p. 67). Snow-storms and 
 avalanches are most prevalent on the 8. side. 
 
 About 172^^- t^ t'le S.E. below the hospice the road crosses 
 the Ticino, which flows from the Sella-See, a lake lying to the 
 E. , not visible. A few min. farther on, near a large mass of 
 rock lying by the road , an inscription near the old bridle-path 
 preserves a memorial of the events of 1799 (p. 68). The words 
 '■Suwarow victor' only are now legible. 
 
 General Gudin, who was posted at Airolo with a detachment of 
 Lecovirbe's division, was cf)mpelled to retire hefore the superior force of 
 the Russians, though gallantly contesting every inch of the ground. At 
 one moment the well -sustained fire of the French became so murderous 
 that the Russian grenadiers wavered; upon this the veteran Suwarow 
 caused a grave to be dug, in which he lay down, declaring that he would 
 be buried at the spot where 'his children' had retreated for the first time. 
 Humiliated by this spectacle, the Russians were stimulated to new efiVirt.s, 
 and on Sept. 25th. 1799, drove back the French and became masters of the 
 Pass of St. Gotthard. General Schieeikowsky forced a passage through 
 the Soraccia or Canaria valley by a hitherto untraversed route, and attacked 
 the French on the left flank and in the rear. 
 
 Near the ftrst house of refuge , Cantoniera S. Antonio , the 
 road enters the Val Tremola (Triimmelnthal) , a dismal valley 
 11/2 M. long, into which avalanches are frequently precipitated"), 
 and descends in numerous windings, which the pedestrian 
 may cut off by taking the old bridle-path at the bottom of the 
 valley, following the telegraph-wires the whole way. Near the 
 second house of refuge, Cantoniera S. Giuseppe (refreshments'), the 
 Val Tremola terminates, and a line *view of the green valley 
 of Airolo, as far as Quinto, is obtained. To the r. is the mouth 
 of the Val Bedretto (p. 140), from which the "W. branch of the 
 Ticino , which afterwards unites with the St. Gotthard branch, 
 descends. 
 
 8 M. Airolo (3668') (*Posta, II. 2, B. 1 fr.), the first village 
 in which Italian is spoken, on the Ticino, convenient head-quarters 
 for excursions on the S. slopes of the St. Gotthard. 
 
 Bridle-path through the Bedretto VaUey over the Xufenen-Pass to Ober- 
 gestelen in the Valais in 8 hrs., see p. 140; or from AIT Acqua over the 
 >s'. Giacomo-Pa.ts (7572') and through the Valle Toggia into the Fnrmazza 
 Valley, to the Falls of the Tosa in 7 lirs.. see p. U3. Or, pa.ssing the liiloni- 
 Hee (eOOLf), through the Piora-VaUi-y over the Coiiw- I'as.^ (7257'), and 
 tlirough the Val Terinine to S. Maria and Dissentis in 10 hrs. (R. 79). — 
 Through the Canaria- Vallei/ over the AVra-/'aA\'! and the L'literalp to Ander- 
 matl (7 hrs.), fatiguing, and on tlie S. side not without danger. 
 
 Below Airolo the geologically interesting Canaria- Valley opens. 
 The road enters the Stretto (^defile) di Stalvedro, which in 1799 
 was defended by 600 French against 3000 Russians for 1*2 hrs. 
 (comp. p. 68). The French afterwards retired over the Niifenen 
 into the Valais. The ruins of a marble tower of Lombard origin 
 <Casa dei Pagani) command the mouth of this picturesque ravine 
 
 BiEDEKEK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. (3
 
 82 RouU -23. FAmo.. rrom Lucerne 
 
 on the r. «hi tliu I. bank of the Ticino four paiallol ridge-; of 
 rock descend to the river, through which four openings have been 
 out for the road. About 1 M. beyond this ravine, on the r. bank. 
 is the beautiful cascade of the Calcaccia, the waters i>f which 
 rebound gracefully from their rocky bed. 
 
 The road, now nearly level, next passes (3 M.) Piotto, C^'A ^^ ) 
 Ambri (to the r. the Piz Massari, opp. Quinto), then (i^/o M.) 
 Fiesso and the insigniticant village of [2 M.j Dazio Grande 
 (3059'). Immediately beyond the inn (very unpretending) the 
 mouth of a second *ravine is reached. The Tirino has here 
 forced a passage for itself through the Platifer (Monte Piottinoj, 
 and precipitates itself in a succession of *cataracts through the 
 gloomy ravine. The road descends the gully close to these 
 '•■'waterfalls, and crosses the river three times. For a distance 
 of 50 paces it runs beneath an overhanging rock, and iy^ M- 
 from Faido again crosses the river. To the r. , before Faido 
 is reached, the Piumeyna precipitates itself by a picturesque fall 
 into the Ticino. 
 
 IOV2 M. Faido (2366'J, Ger. Pfakl C"' Angela, K. 11/2, L- V2, 
 1). 1, 8. 21/2! A. 1/2 f^- ? Prince of Wales, new: An<jleterre), 
 capital of the Leventina . a village of a thoroughly Italian 
 character. 
 
 The Leventina, or \alley of the Ticino, foniierly belonj^ed to the canton 
 of Uri, and was governed in the most despotic manner by bailiffs, who 
 purchased their situations from tlie Landsgeiueinde (p. 75), as was the 
 custom in ahiiost all the democratic cantons, as well as in the republics 
 of antiquity. A revolt broke out in 17oo, but was .suppressed with the aid 
 of the Swiss troops; the leaders were executed, and their heads suspended 
 from the chestnut trees. The French elVected a change in the mode of 
 j^overnment in 179S. The canton of I'ri endeavoured to re-establish the 
 original constitution in lSi4. but the Congress of ^'ienna decided that the 
 Leventina and the other seven Italian bailiwicks belonging to the twelve 
 Swiss cantons should together constitute the new canton of lessin.or Ticino. 
 
 The road passes through beautiful scenery; the numerous 
 church-towers in the Italian style , crowning the summits of the 
 hills, have a picturesque effect. To the r. and 1. cascades pre- 
 cipitate themselves over the cliffs; that of *CW6ia.:jc/ima resembles 
 a veil in form. Huge masses of rock lie scattered about, on 
 which luxuriant chestnut trees have taken root. Vines and mul- 
 berry trees begin to appear. At the point where the road de- 
 scends in numerous windings to the bottom of the valley , the 
 Ticino forms another beautiful fall, spanned by a bridge over 
 which the road passes. The valley suffered severely from the 
 disastrous inundations of Nov., 1868. 
 
 Giomico (1233'), Ger. Jmis (Cerco; Corona), 6 M. from Faido, 
 capital of the district, is worthy of notice on account of its 
 antiquities and picturesque situation. The former consist of a 
 lofty and ancient tower, remains of a Gallic or Lombard forti- 
 fication (near the church of -S. Maria di CasteUo), and the church
 
 to Como, BliLLlNZri.NA, ;>5. lioute. 83 
 
 of iS. Skcolh da Mira. in the earlif;t Homaiie-jiiuc style. >aid to 
 occupy the site of a heathen tempk*. Beyond Gioriiico to the r. 
 is another picturesque waterfall, that of the Cretnu.iina. 
 
 ili/2 >i- Bodio (lOSG'j (Hutei de VlUe, or Paste ; Aiyltj. Be- 
 \oiul PoUeggio ('ir^^'j the lirenno emerges from the Val BLeyno 
 and falls into Ihe Ticino. The valley of the 'J'icino now becomes 
 wider, and takes the nanie of the liii-iera, or lUver-valley, as far 
 as the mouth of the Moesa (see below). Luxuriant vines, chest- 
 nuts, walnuts, mulberries, and lig-trees now remijul the traveller 
 of his proximity to 'the garden of the Earth, fair Italy'. The 
 \ines extend their dense foliage over wooden framework supported 
 by stone pillars, iO' to 12' in height. Many of the inhabitants 
 of this valley subsist almo.'st entirely upon the produce of the 
 chestnut-trees. Frequent inundations render the district unhealthy. 
 The next village, '6 M. from Bodio, is Biasca [L'nione^ tolerable), 
 with its old church on an eminence (111*2'). A series of chapels, 
 the 'via crucis\ leads to the Pelroneila-Chapel, whence the view is 
 line. The cellars in the neighbouring rocks serve as storehouses 
 for the wine-merchants of Bellinzona. it is not necessary to pass 
 through Biasca; a branch of the road, in a straight direction, passes 
 it and rejoins the higli-road beyond. I>iligence from Biasca to 
 Olivone, and bridle-path to Dissentis by the Lukmanier, see R. 79. 
 
 (i'Yi -^i- Osogna (Uu4'), at the foot of an abrupt rocky peak 
 with rounded summit. The next villages are Cresciano (8b6'), 
 with picturesque waterfalls; Claro (lU'2i'), at the base of a 
 mountain (81)'24') of the same name . one of the most beautiful 
 and fertile in .Switzerland, on which the convent of S. Maria 
 (2074') is situated. Then over the Moesa, which descends from 
 the Bernardino (p. 363), to Arbedo (bl3'), celebrated as the scene 
 of the sanguinary and unequal struggle of June 30th, 1422, when 
 3000 Confederates were defeated by 24,000 Milanese. 
 
 From a distance, the aspect of liellinzona with its lofty walls 
 and turrets (which formerly extended into the valley), its three 
 castles and extensive barracks at the N. gate, is striking and 
 imposing. The luxuriance of the vegetation and the beautiful 
 forms of the neighbouring mountains increase the charm of the 
 picture. 
 
 91/2 M. Bellinzona (^ <??'), (..er. Belienz {Hotel de la Ville, 
 outside the S. gate, K. 27-2? ^- V2) ^- IV2 *r. ; ^Angelo, near 
 the 8. gate, in the town, Italian style), on the Ticino, one of 
 the three capitals of the canton of Tessin, with 2361 inhab., 
 presents all the characteristics of an Italian town. It was strongly 
 fortilied in the middle ages, and was regarded as the key to the 
 route from Lombardy to Germany. The fortilications have recently 
 been partially restored. It was the scene of frequent conflicts 
 between the .Swiss and the Milanese, but from the beginning of 
 the l(>th to the end of the iSth cent, the ft>rmer remained in
 
 84 Route 24. STANS. 
 
 undisturbed possession. The Abbey-Church adjoining the po?t- 
 office is a fine building in the Italian style of the 16th cent. 
 
 The three picturesque Castlft) were the residences of the three Swiss 
 Bailiffs (conip. p. 82). in whom the judicial and executive authority was 
 vested. Each of the castles possessed a small garrison and a few cannons. 
 The largest, the Castello Grande, on an isolated eminence to the W., be- 
 longed to Uri: it is now used as a prison and arsenal-, visitors are readily 
 admitted (gratuity to guide). Of the other two, on the E., the lower, 
 the Castello di Mezzo, belonged to Schwyz : the \ipper, the Castello Corbario 
 or Corb^ (1502'), now in ruins, to Unterwalden. The view from the Castello 
 Orande is striking and beautiful ; that from the elevated Chapel of S. Maria 
 della Salute not less so. 
 
 A bridge of 14 arches . 300 paces long , here crosses the 
 Ticino , which in summer is so low that 9 or 10 of the arches 
 are dry. The banks are protected from inundations by a stronji 
 embankment, 2287' long friparo tondo). 
 
 From Bellinzona to Como and Camerlata, see R. 92; to 
 Magadino, see R. 94: to Milan, see R. 99. 
 
 24. From Lucerne to Altorf by Stansstad and 
 Engelberg. Surenen. 
 
 Camp. Map. p. G6. 
 
 Steamboat three times daily between Lucerne and Stansstad in 1(2 hr.. 
 see p. 87; Omnibus (1)2 fr.) from Stansstad to Stans five times daily in 
 20 min.. in connection with the steamboats. Diligence from Beckenried 
 (p. 70) to Stans twice daily, fare 95 c. From Stans to Altorf 11 hrs. : 
 carriage-road as far as Engelberg. thence by a footpath. The traveller 
 should arrange to sleep at Engelberg, 13i[2 M. from Stans. A guide 
 (10 fr.) is required for the passage of the Surenen to Altorf, a walk of 
 7 hrs. : but only necessary , in the reverse direction , from Altorf to the 
 summit of the pass (6 fr.). 
 
 From Lucerne to Stansstad see p. 88. 
 
 Stansstad fp. 88) is about 21/2 M- from Stans. Oue-horse 
 carriage from Stansstad to Engelberg 12 fr. , two-horse 20 fr. 
 Travellers are recommended to dismiss their vehicle at Grafenort 
 (9 M. distant, a drive of 1^/4 hr., one-horse carr. 6 fr.), beyond 
 which the road becomes so steep that passengers are frequently 
 rompelled to alight and proceed on foot fone-horse carr. from 
 Beckenried [p. 70] to Engelberg 15 fr. and 2 fr. gratuity). 
 
 Stans or Stanz (* Krone, R. 1, B. 1 fr. ; '^Engel; * Pension 
 Jlotzbenj . i^/.2 fr.). the capital of Xidu-alden, the E. portion of 
 the canton of Unterwalden, with 2070 (Rom. Cath.) inhab., lies 
 in a rich and fruitful valley, although illuminated by the sun 
 from Nov. 11th to Febr. 2nd only one hour in the morning. 
 Above it rise the IIohe-Briesen (7895') and the Stanserhorn (p. 85). 
 
 Stans has acquired a melancholy celclmty in the annals of modern 
 warfare. When the Swiss cantons were summoned by the French to 
 swear allegiance to the new Helvetian Republic (1798), this town, with 
 the whole canton of Vnterwalden, refused to appear. The French general 
 Srhaiienburg advanced from Lucerne, Sept. 3rd. 1798. with 16,(X)0 men, and 
 f-ndeavoured to oflect an entrance into Stansstad under cover of artillery 
 placed by him at the foot of Pilatus. The inhabitants of Unterwalden threw 
 up strong intrenchments along the banks of the lake, and kept the enemy 
 ill check from tlie 3rd to the 8th Sept. The French then forced a passage
 
 ENGELBERG. 24. Route. bb 
 
 h\ land liy Alpnacli, tnok tlie iiiliTnchiiieiils alter an obstinate resistance, 
 and advanced with a tiirn»idatile army to Stans, wliere a t'riglittul massacre 
 ensued. The numbers were t'eart'ully disproportionate — 16. fJU to 20UU; 
 women and children took part in llie conflict. animate<l by the Capuchin 
 niunk I'atd tSli/fjer, who represented the new constitution to be a work 
 of the devil. Whole families perished. Resistance was useless. 8i.v hundred 
 houses in the environs of Stans were burnt lo the ground, and the town 
 itself only escaped through the intercession <jf a French general. The 
 loss of the French was never precisely ascertained, but was estimated at 
 3 — 4(X)J men. Contributions were sent from Switzerland, Germany, and 
 even from Kngland for the survivors. The noble-minded Pestalozzi adopted 
 tlie orphan children (80 in number), educating and providing for them 
 with the tenderness of a father (see p. 113). 
 
 The choir of the handsome Parish Church contains two coloured 
 statties , '7i. NicoLau^ de rupt and 'Zi. Conrad Schaiber' ; i. e., 
 St. Nicolaus von der Fliie (j>. HUj and his grandson. Adjoining 
 the church is the * Monument of Arnold von Winkelried (p. 14). 
 a tine group in marble, but badly placed. 
 
 A tablet by the Burial Chapel in the churchyard bear?* an 
 inscription in memory of victims of the French massacre. 
 
 The Town Hall contains portraits of all the badills from the 
 year 1521: beneath is a collection of Unterwalden tlags; also 
 two French banners of 171)8; a picture by the blind artist W iirsch, 
 who perished in 1798; another by Volmar, representing Brother 
 Klaus taking leave of his family. 
 
 In the Arsenal is preserved the coat of mail of Arnold von 
 Winkelried; on the road to .Sarnen (I72 ^^- to the W., p. HUj 
 is a Chapel dedicated to his memory (see above). Beautiful 
 vie>v from the Knieri, above the Capuchin Monastery. 
 
 The Stanser Horn (6232') is ascended from Stans, or from the Kozloch 
 (p. SSj, in 3 hrs. The path from Stans is the better; the two routes unite 
 on the Bluinalp. View remarkably line. — The ascent of the Buochser 
 Horn (5938') (4 hrs.) is less recommended. 
 
 The road to P^ngelberg (13 ','2 M. from .Stans) tirst traverses 
 rich meadows. To the 1. the Wallenstocke (8G1'2'J; in the 
 background rises the Titlis (p. 80), with its glaciers and ttebU 
 of snow. Between Thalwyl and Wolfenschiess (4 M.) the roail 
 crosses the Engelherger Aa; high up on the 1. lie the chalets of 
 Rickenbach. 
 
 The next village is (21^2 -^"^0 Orafenort (1868'), which con- 
 sists of a chapel, an inn, and a farm belonging to the Abbey 
 of Engelberg (7 M. from Engelberg). About ^2 ^I- larther the 
 road ascends, and traverses a forest for upwards of 4 M., on 
 emerging from which the impetuotis Aa is approached. The 
 ice-clad Titlis stands forth majestically ; then to the 1. the (irosst 
 and Kleine Spannorter (7H71'j, whose rocky peaks rise from amidst 
 glaciers and snow-ftelds. The green Alpine valley of Engelberg, 
 () M. in length and y^ M. in width, bounded on three sides by 
 lofty, snow-capped mountains, is now suddenly disclosed to view. 
 
 At tlte entrance of the valley, above the buildings of 
 
 Engelberg (3201') (* Zwm Titlis. pens. 5— 8 fr. ; '^ Engel,
 
 86 Route -JJ. riTLJS. 
 
 fr. : ^Sonnenberg, new : '"Pension Midler, '^Knytlbery ; private 
 rooms at Dr. Cattani's and elsewhere; usual charges, R. IV/9, B. 1, 
 I). 2 I'r., -vvhey also procurable. Eut/ene Hess and Jos. Amrein, 
 good guides"), rises the stately Benedictine Abbey of the same 
 name, founded in the 12th cent., termed by Pope Calixtus XI. 
 Mons Anqelorum, re-erected after a conflagration in 1729. 
 
 The 'C luirch contains modern pictures hy JJescfncanden, Kaiser, and 
 mirsrfi (p. 85). High altar-piece an Assumption hy Spiecfler , 1734. In 
 the chapter-house two transparent pictures by Kaiser, the Conception and 
 the Nativity. The Library^ althoufih robbed of its {rreatest treasures 
 by the French in I79S. still boasts of several valuable MSS. and specimens 
 i>f early pvinfina: (among others, a Mamotrectus of 1470). A well-executed 
 relief of the f^ntrelbercer valley may also be inspected. The hours of 
 admission can be ascertained at (he hotels. 
 
 The educational institution connected with the Abbey is iti 
 high repute. The farm-buildings, with the dwellings for the 
 labourers, are extensive; upwards of 1000 cheeses are frequently 
 stored in the large *cellar. The revenue^ of the abbey, to which 
 the entire district was formerly subject, were considerably im- 
 paired by the French in 1798. 
 
 Kngelberg is the residence of the talented wood-carver ^10.0- 
 (leinua Custer. It is protected from the N.E.. and is well-suited 
 for a ^tay of some duration. Numerous short excursions may 
 be made in this neighbourhood: of the longer, the following 
 deserve mention : 
 
 Ascent of the liUjidal.ttork (9()94'). 4'i-2 hrs., the la.st hour laborious, 
 line panorama: of the Widder/ehl, 4 Ins.. less fatiguing. Tcilnchbar/ifall ut\<1 
 nerrenreiiti see below. 
 
 The 'Titlis f 10.657'). rising on the S.E.. may be ascended (with guide. 
 10 fr. and a gratuity) in 7 — 8 hrs. from Endelberg. It is advisable to proceed 
 iin tlie evening ])revious to the ascent to the (2i|2 hrs.) Triibsee-AIp (riding 
 feasible thus far), where a bed of hay may he fibtained (2 fr. 1). and to 
 start the ne.xt morning at 2 a. m.. in order that the snow may be traversed 
 before the heat of the day. Those who make the ascent from Engelberg 
 direct frequently start at midnight with lanterns. Above the Triibsee-Alp. 
 on the Statid, the paths from Engelberg and the Engstlen-Alp unite. 
 Beyond this point the path ascends a steep slaty acclivity in zigzags, then 
 over rugged limestone rocks to the glacier ( Rothegy), the first portion of 
 which is covered with soft snow : by a slight depression, the route passes 
 between hmg fissures: the ascent then Viecomes more rapid, steps being 
 hewn if the 'Firn' is hard enough : still higher, a broad gently-sloping 
 field of snow is traversed. The large crevasse which it crosses presents 
 no difliculty : slate-rocks and snow are next encountered, and after an 
 ascent of 2 hr^^. over fields rif ice and snow the summit is attained. The, 
 highest n)unded point (room for 20 persons) is called the XoUen. Thi> 
 view, whicti is highly picturesque and imposing, extends over the entire 
 Alpine chain from Savoy to the Tyrol. !K. Switzerland, and S. Germany. 
 The ascent of the Titlis. although requiring considerable perseverance, i.s 
 perhaps the least difllcult of all glacier excursions. 
 
 Over the Joch Pass to Meiringen in 10 hrs.. see K. 3(.): \\\» other patli- 
 bad to the Melchthal. see p. 89. 
 
 On the path hence to Altorf is the picturesque waterfall of 
 The Tat.^rhbarh (40 min.) wliich flows from the Hahnen- or Engel- 
 tierg: 25 min. farther the chalet Herrenreuti (breakfast may be 
 obtained here), belonging to the Abbey of Engelberg. is reacheil,
 
 SIKKNKN PASS. -J I. lioiitr. "^ / 
 
 From tliis point a view is obtained of the ^rla«•iel•^ ol the Urassen 
 (9140') and Faulblatten. The Stierenbach forms a beautiful cas- 
 cade about 1 lir. farther. Near some chalet?, 4 livs. walk from 
 Engelberjr and IV4 br. from the Surfenen Pass, snow-flelds are 
 encountered in tlie early summer , but disappear as the season 
 advances; beyond the pa^s they remain the whole year, and must 
 be traversed for a considerable distance. The Sur^nen Pass, or 
 Surienen Eck fToTS'). separates the Blackenstock (9685'") and 
 Iri-Rothstock (96'21') on the 1. ^ fron. the Schlossherg (10,286') 
 on the r. 
 
 The Titlis increases in grandeur as the traveller ascends, and 
 ii long unbroken range of summits and glaciers extends as far 
 a* the Sur^nen. On the other side the prospect embraces the 
 summits of the two mountain-ranges enclosing the Schachen- 
 thal, which opens on the opposite side of the Reuss; the Wind- 
 gelle is one of the most conspicuous; in the extreme distance 
 the horizon is bounded by the snowy crest of the Glarnisch. 
 On the E. side of the Surenen the snow-fleld is of greater extent. 
 ;ind the path more precipitous. It then leads over loose stones 
 to the Waldnacht-Alp, where the path divides : r. over the bridge 
 to ICr.itf'elden (p. 75), from wliich route the beautiful Fall of the 
 Wahlnacfitbnrh or Langebuch is visible; 1. to Attinghau.ten and 
 Altorf (p. 74). 
 
 .V French divisit>n under Lccoui))e a(ivanc«^(l in 1799 across the Sureueu 
 info the Iieus3 valley, and attacked the Au.strians. hut was soon obliged 
 (o retreat, as Suwarow pressed forward witli his troops from the .St. 
 Ootthard (p. 68). 
 
 25. From Lucerne over the Brunig to Brienz 
 (and Meiringen). 
 
 Co III J). Jfap.i pp. 6'')*. !'8. 
 
 136314 M. Steamboat from Luce rut Xo Slaiisstad in ',-' I"'-: i>> Alpnach- 
 (•estad in 11(4 lir. ; Post-omnibus from Alpnach-Gestad to Brienz in 6. 
 in Meiriiifjen in S'U hrs. From Brienz travellers may at once proceed 
 (steamboat corrosptnul.s with diligence) to Iiilerlaken, and thence to 
 .Veufiaus and Thuii ( >>rher:l>(itii)., whence railway to Bern. One day. there- 
 fore, now suffices for the journey from Zurich to Intcrlaken, or for that 
 from Lucerne to Bern. 
 
 Through-tickets to Inferlakon are obtained at the post-ofllcc (branch- 
 r>flice next door to the Engl. Hof) in Lucerne (in which ca.se the coup*' 
 may be secured), or on board the sleauiboats : froni Lucerne to Brienz 
 7 fr. 60 c, to Interlaken coupe I'i fr. 10 0.. 40 lbs. luggage free. — 
 Diligence frtmi Beckenried (p. 70) to Stans in 1 hr.. fare 05 c. ; from 
 Stans to Stansstad Post -omnibus (','2 fr.) r> times daily in connection 
 with the steamboats. — From Lucerne to Stansstad and Stans by land, see 
 p. .Hi and below. 
 
 Carriages. Two-horse from Lucerne to Brienz or Meiringen 70 to 
 SO fr. P'roni Stansstad to Sachseln one-hors(^ 8 fr.. two-horse 15 fr. : (o 
 Lnngern 15 — 25 fr. From Alpnarfi-destad to L>u\gern one-horse 1*2 fr., two- 
 horse 20 fr. : to Brienz one-horse 18 — 20, two-horse 30 — 32 fr. . always to 
 be had. — From Beckenried to Liuigern two horse 25 — 3l^ fr. 
 
 Rowing-boats (comp. p. 06) from Lucerne to Stansstad in 2 hrs. 
 with two rowers A';.' fr. •- to Alpnach-Oestad in 3 hrs. 5'i'-.« fr. 
 
 Pedestrian^ who propose lo proceed direct from the Rigi to the
 
 88 Route -Jd. ALPNACH-GE.^TAD. From Lucerne 
 
 Briinig, may find the following direcli(nis useful. Breaklast on tlie liigi- 
 descend to Wiiggis (in '2^i-z In-s.J. ihonce by small boat (twit men 6 ti-.. 
 three 8 fr., four lU fr., and gratuity of '|2 fr. for each rower) to Alpnach- 
 Gestad, in ^'J-j — 3 hrs. (luncheon in boat); from Alpuach-Gestad by car- 
 riage to Sachseln (6 31.) and thence on foot; or the whole distance to 
 Meiringen (25'|2 J^I-) may be performed on foot. 
 
 The Road from Lucerne to Alpnach- G es t ad leads first along 
 the wild Krieiisbach, then Ijy Horn (1678') with its picturesquely situated 
 church, to Winkel (-Stern, unpretending), a village on the bay of the lake 
 described below, and along its bank to Htrgiswyl ( Rossli, li. 1 fr.. B. 1 fr.). 
 whence a bridle-path ascends Pilatus (p. 53). The road now skirts the 
 base of the Lopper (see below) on the bank of the lake, and at the Ac/ien- 
 biiicke (see below) reaches the Lake of Alpnach, on the N.W. bank of which 
 it leads to Alpnach-Gestad (see below). 
 
 When the central point of the lake is reached (see p. 69j 
 the steamboat enters the bay of Stansstad ; at the foot of the 
 steep Biirgenstock , to the 1., lies the little village of Kirsiten: 
 farther back, to the r., at the foot of Pilatus. is Hergiswyl (see 
 above). The bay extends N. as far as WinkeL (see abovej, near 
 which is the bold promontory of Spitzen-Eck^. The steamboat 
 steers S. to Stansstad (1433') (Zum Winkelried; Rossii; Schliissel; 
 Freihof). i^tad , ^taad, or Gestade , signifies a landing-place or 
 harbour; Stansstad is therefore the 'harbour of Stans'. A square 
 tower with pinnacles, termed the Schnitz-Thurm, which rises on 
 the bank , was erected by the Swiss in 1308 , as a protection 
 against the assaults of the Austrians, from whose yoke they had 
 emancipated themselves. 
 
 The E. spur of Pilatus, the Lopper. extends far into the lake. 
 Its base is skirted by the above-described road between Lucerne 
 and Alpnach. The brook on the opposite bank, which falls into 
 the lake at Stansstad, has deposited so much detritus that the 
 connection between the Al nach lake and the Lake of Lucerne 
 has become very narrow. This arm of the lake is now crossed 
 by an embankment and a bridge (Achenhrucke); the latter is 
 raised to permit the passage of the steamboats. Above the Bay 
 of Alpnach rises the Rozberg (2132'J, separated from the Platti- 
 berg by the *Rozloch , a narrow ravine , in which the Mehlbach 
 forms several waterfalls and turns the water-wheels of the paper 
 manufactory. The pleasant *Pension Bldttler (p. 49) is here 
 situated on the lake, amidst gardens and orchards; adjacent are 
 sulphur-baths. The ascent of the Biirgenstock (27-2 hrs.) forms 
 a pleasant excursion, see p. 69. 
 
 The Footpath from Stansstad to Sachseln skirts the lake for 
 a short distance, and then enters this narrow pass. At Allweg (2'J4 M. from 
 Stansstad), where there is a chapel in memory of ^^'inkelried (pp. 14, 85) 
 ("Pension and whey-cure estab.), the path joins the High-road to Sar- 
 nen (no diligence). At the village of Kerns ("Krone) (wrestling matches 
 on the 1st of August), 2'(4 31. from Sarnen , the scenery becomes more 
 picturesque. The direct road from Kerns to Sachseln, etlectiug a saving of 
 liJ2 M., does not pass through Sarnen, but crosses the entrance of the 
 Melchthal (see p. 89). 
 
 Alpnach-Gestad (*H6tel Pilate or Post, on the lake, R. 2, B. 1, 
 L. and A. 1 fr. : Stern; Rossli) is the harbour for the village of
 
 to lirienz. SAKNEN. 26. Route. 89 
 
 Al^na.ch { iVM ' } ( ScldiUiei ; Sonne). I'/i -^1- <li-itaiit. The village 
 church with its slender spire, a modern structure, was erected with 
 the proceeds of tlie sale of timber from the formerly inaccessible 
 forests of Pilatus, which between 1811 and 1819 were lirst ren- 
 dered available by means of a wooden slide, 25,000' long, upon 
 which the wood descends in 6 min. to the lake. Ascent of Pi- 
 latus, see p. 53. 
 
 The road to Sarnen follows the 1. bank of the Aa, which 
 descends from the lake of .Sarnen to that of Alpnach ; near Alp- 
 nach, Kdyiswyl, and Sarnen covered wooden bridges carry the 
 road across the aflluents of this stream. 
 
 41/.2 M. Sarnen (1558 'J (Adier, 11. 1 fr., B. 1 fr. ; Obwalder 
 Hof, new; SchLiisseL; Sarner Hof), chief town (pop. 3720, 81 
 Prot.) of Obwalden, the \V. portion of the canton of Lnterwaldeji, 
 and the seat of Government , is situated at the junction of the 
 Meich-Aa and the Sarner-Aa, and possesses a nunnery and Ca- 
 puchin monastery. The Town Hall contains portraits of all the 
 magistrates of Ubwalden from the year 1381 to 1824, also one 
 of 8t. Nikolaus von der Fliie (see below), and a relief map of 
 Unterwalden and llasli. The church, on an eminence, the can- 
 tonal hospital and the work-house at the 8. end of the town, 
 and the arsenal on the Landenbery (1667') are conspicuous ob- 
 jects ; line view of the Sarnen and Melch valleys from the latter. 
 The peasant women of Unterwalden interlace the plaits of their 
 hair with white riband , fastening it up with a peculiar spoon- 
 shaped silver buckle. 
 
 The Lake of Sarnen (1546'J, 41/0 M- long, I'/o >!• broad, 
 is well stocked with lish. Pedestrians effect a saving of ^o hr. 
 by rowing to the other end of the lake (2 fr.). The Valley of 
 Sarnen . although pleasing and picturesque , has no pretension 
 to the grandeur of Alpine scenery. Beautiful view to the ^V. 
 from the Sckwendiberg . 
 
 E. of Sarnen is the Melchthal, a romantic valley, 15 M. in length, 
 .studtied with numerou.s rustic duellings, and enclosed by lofty mountaina 
 illoc/i.ttollen, 8154'; Lauberstock\ 838'J'). At the upper end is the Melchset 
 (.0427') (p. 130), whose waters are lost in a cleft of the rock, and 3 31. below 
 re-appear as the Melch Aa. From the village of the same name an in- 
 teresting i)ass leads over the Juchli (7131') to Engelberg (p. 85) in G hrs., 
 and another over the iitorvf(j<j (GiOi'j in -I'l'.' hrs. ; a third over the Melcli- 
 alp to Meiringen and the Kngstlen-Alp (p. 129). From the Juchli the summit 
 of the Jiiitstock., commanding a line view, may be attained in 3 hrs. 
 
 At the entrance of the valley stands >St. AikUm.'itii (2622'), or St. Klaus., the 
 lirst Christian church erected in tliis district; adjacent is an ancient tower, 
 termed by the natives HeUleutlinnn (Heathens" lower). Nearly opposite, 
 3 31. from Sarnen, is tlie Ranfl (i. e. brow of the mountain), formerly u 
 barren wilderness, with the hermitage of 8 t. Nikolaus von der Flue, 
 much of the woodwork of which, as well as fragments of the stone which 
 served him for a pillow, have been carried away by relic-hunters. The 
 family name of the Saint was Loirenhiiuj(jer., but living near a precipice 
 (Fliie) in the vicinity of Sachselu, he acquired the name of yikolaii.'i ron 
 der Fliie. Here he passed the greater part of his life with his family and 
 ten children, tilling his farm, and attending to his worldlv alVairs. He was
 
 90 Hoate i>o. BHlNKi. 
 
 indii.*tri(ius ami of irreproacliablc character. ;i^ a .-ioldicr luavo and humane, 
 aud a.« a provincial co\insellor talented and upright. At the same time 
 he po.ssessed .«:tron? relitrious predilections and an insatiable thirst after 
 knowledfre. In his fiftieth year he retired altogether from public life. 
 Tradition says that for the iirst 20 years of his seclusion he subsisted en- 
 tirely upon the sacramental elements, of which he partook monthly. All 
 who wore in trouble or in need of advice resorted to the holy man and 
 derived comfort from his sagacious counsels. After the successful termi- 
 nation of the war agrainst Charles the Bold of Burgundy, the Federal de- 
 puties assembled at Staus, but not agreeing concerning the division of the 
 spoil and the incorporation of Solothurn and Freiburg in the Confedera- 
 tion, were about to separate on no friendly terms, when Brother Klaus 
 entered the chamber. At the appearance of this venerable man. the sanc- 
 tity of whose character was universally kno\vn. the deputies arose and 
 iireeted him with respectful salutations: (according to the chronicle) his 
 pacilic eftbrts were signally Idessed, for in one hour every thing was ami- 
 cably arranged. After hi- death he was canonised: his memory is still re- 
 vered by the populace, and there is scarcely a hut in irnterwalden that 
 does not possess a portrait of Brother Klaus. 
 
 The handsome *Church (in631 of the villasre of Sachseln 
 (Kreuz; Enqel; Lowe) witli a portal of marble pillars, contain^ 
 the bone^ of St. Nikolaus. with several other variable relics. 
 
 The village of {?>^!^ M.j Giswyl fl673'l C^Krone); situated 
 between the lakes of Sarnen and Lnngern. was partially destroyed 
 in 16*29 by inundations of the Lcwibach. A lake was thus 
 formed, which 130 years later was artificially eonductcd into the 
 Lake of Sarnen. Fine view from the churchyard. On the slope 
 to the 1. the ruin> of the ancient castle of the r-on Rudenz family 
 are seen. 
 
 The summit of the Brienzer liothfioni, p. 12(i. may be reached from 
 (^iswvl in 6 hrs. ; the path for the first 3 hrs. is good, afterwards precipitous. 
 
 The road now ascends (for 2 M.) the Kaiserstuhl (2326') 
 r*KaiscrstuhV). and by Bilrf/len on the heijiht reaches the Lake 
 of Lungern (2162') (the three peaks of the Wetterhorn stand 
 out to the S.J. the E. bank of which it flVo ^I-) skirts; I1/.2M. 
 farther, the large village of Lungern, built entirely of wood, 
 situated in a mountain-basin, is attained. 
 
 Lungern (2165') (Hotel Briinig ; Loxce) is situated at the 
 foot of the Briinig and the S. end of the lake, but at some 
 distance from its bank . as the drainage has diminished its size 
 by one-half. A picturesque waterfall of the Dundelsbach pre- 
 cipitates itself over the rocks on the W. side. 
 
 The new post-road over the Briinig ascends by nnmerou^ 
 windings through the wood, affording occasional views, till it 
 rearhes the summit of the Brunig pass f3648'), near which the 
 • anton of Berne is entered. Beyond the pass are situated an old 
 custom-house (Hotel Briinigkulm) and the Hotel du Briinig. 
 Magnilicent prospect from the Wylerhorn (6282'). I hr. S.W. of 
 the Briinig, 3 hrs. from Brienz. 
 
 The new road to (01/4 M.) Meiringen descends to the 1. at 
 the custom-house. As the road to (6 M.) Brienz is descended, 
 the Engelhoruer (p. 123) become visible. The hamlet of Briinig,
 
 KMI.Kr.r( If. -JfJ. Hontc. \U 
 
 a fhort distance below the pass, lies to tlic I. aini<l>t irreeii 
 pastm-es. To the 1. a view of the valley from Meiriiij^en to Ini- 
 Hof fp. 13*21 and of Meiriiii^eii itself, is now enjoyed; at the 
 foot of the S. nioniitain-ran.ce to the 1. . the lower fall of the 
 Reichenbarli fp- l'2.-V) is visible: in a straight direction the fall 
 of the Oltschibach (p. 125); in the valley the river Aare . and 
 to the r. a portion of the lake of lirienz. The road gradually 
 descends, occasionally steep, by Brienzvyler (Bar) to the Bridge 
 of Brienzn-yler , where it unites with the high road from Mei- 
 ringen to Brienz. From this point to Brienz, as well as to 
 Meiringen, see p. 1Q5. 
 
 26. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal. 
 
 ')l-',i .M. l)i 1 ineiif .; to Hschol/inalt in G',4 ■ I" l.^uignau in S lir~. 
 i; ail way from Laiicnau to Kf-rn in I hr.: fares 4 fr.. 2 fr. 80 c.. 2 fr. 
 
 The road passes through Littaii. St. .7o.*^ Maliers, and Srhaohen. 
 
 The old road hero ascends by .steep windingf.s. lya.s.tjinp the Tiathx of 
 I'antbiihl (in.stic) to the Bvamegy ('3612'). A view of Pilatus, the Ripi, and 
 the AJp'' "f Schwvz and T'ri from the inn. The road then de.seends to 
 Kntl.'bnch. 
 
 The high ro^id. which the diligence follows, skirts the base of 
 the Brameoih i)assiiig the monastery of WerihenMein, and reaches 
 
 1'2^/k M. Wohlhausen f 1889'). [On the Menzherg. at the foot 
 of the Napf (Vce below) is a sanitary establishment of some re- 
 pute.] The road, following the course of the Emme , now leads 
 S. to Entlebuch ('240*2') (*Hutel du Port; *Drei Konige). where 
 the Entlenbach unites with the Kleine Emme which water^r the 
 Enilehuch, a valley about 30 M. long. On both sides are lofty 
 mountains, which do not, however, reach the snow-line. The breed- 
 ing of cattle and manufacture of cheese are the principal pur- 
 suits of the inhabitant^, who are remarkable for their intelligence 
 and activity. Wrestling-matches see Introd. XVI. 
 
 The Napf (f) 101'). W. of Kntlehuch. the .summit of which commands 
 a inntrniru-ent view, i.s frequently ascinded ( 3 hr.s. ) from Entlebuch or 
 Truhschaclitn (s'-e below |: *'"• latter i.s the more convenient route, pa.ssinp 
 tlie villaur of 7V//?) ( Innl. I'lmin. to the ^.E. of Truh^chachen. C'arriaee- 
 road a.s far as Trult. 
 
 Beyond Schiipfheiin ('230(V), the principal village of the val- 
 ley, rebuilt after a fire in 18*29, the road quits the valley of the 
 Wald-Emme fby which a road to the 1. leads to Sorenherg. 
 I I ' 2 M. : thence to the Brienzer Rothhorn, an a>cent of 0\!-2 hrs.. 
 p. r2H). and ascends the valley of the Wei.s-se Emme to 
 
 13"/.^ M. Escholzmatt ('280?') (*Loir€; Krone), a scattered 
 village. tlu> last in the F.ntlebuch. Wyssenhach f*Inn) is on the 
 Lucerne frontier. The road now enters the canton of T^eru. and 
 follows the cour-e of the Hpi . passing h'rosrJteijbrinin . Trub- 
 schachen . and a liandsome Hospital (for 100 orphans and 300 
 }>auper>). an edifice hi.iihly ereditable to tlu- -kill of the Kmmeii- 
 thal carpenter^,
 
 92 Route 28. BERN. Hotels. 
 
 IQi/s M. Langnau ('2'20')') {'^'JloLei Emmenthal; ''■'Hirsch, R. 2, 
 L. 7-25 ^- ^7-2 li'-; ^-''«-e;, a thriving villa.^e with 5886 iuhab., 
 is the capital of the Emmenthal, a valley about 30 M. long, 
 12 — 15 M. wide, watered by the Jifis and the Grosse Emme, 
 and one of the richest and most fertile in Switzerland. Its 
 wooden houses enjoy a high repute, and are sometimes exported. 
 The cheese produced here is much esteemed. Luxuriant and 
 carefully cultivated meadows, a tine breed of cattle, and com- 
 fortable dwellings with well kept gardens , all aitord evidence 
 that the Emmenthal is peopled by an industrious and prosperous 
 race. A monument at Langnau was erected in 1849, to the 
 memory of the men of Bern who fell during the w ar of the Sepa- 
 rate League in 1847. 
 
 Railway. The train, after leaving Langnau, crosses the Jlfis, 
 then the Emme, and passes the thriving villages of Emmenmatt, 
 Siynau (BarJ, and Zaziwyl. It then skirts the Hornberg in a wide 
 curve, and passes Konolfinyen, Tdgertscki, and Worb {Jionne\ 
 Lowej, the latter a wealthy place, with an ancient castle. Pleasing 
 glimpse of the 8tockhorn chain to the 1. From stat. Gumlingen 
 (^1850') on the Bern and Thun line to Bern, see p. 99. 
 
 27. From Lucerne to Bern by Aarburg and 
 Herzogenbuchsee. 
 
 ?lij2 31. Central Swiss Kail w a v. In 4 to b^l-> lirs. Fares 12 fr. 5. 
 8 fr. 50, 6 fr. lU c. 
 
 From Lucerne to Aarburg, see R. 6; from Aarburg to Her- 
 zogenbuchsee, see R. 3; from Herzogenbuchsee to Bern, see R. 5. 
 
 28. Bern. 
 
 Hotels. "^'Berner Hof (PI. a), adjacent to the Federal Council Hall, 
 It. y fr. and upwards, L. 1 , B. l')-.. , 1). excl. \V. at 1 oVl. 4, at o ocl. 4Vj, 
 A. I fr. (newspapers; baths in the ho. el); ■'Hotel Bellevue, adjoining 
 the Mini (PI. lyj , less expensive; both these hotels command a full view 
 of the Alps. Opposite the staiicm : "^'.Sch w eizerho f (1^1. bj, a little to the 
 1. on leaving the station, K. 2 fr. and upwards. B. I'j-^, D. at I'i'ja o'cl. 3, at 
 5 o'cl. 4, A. 3j4 fr. ; immediately to the 1. as the station is quitted, 
 'Boulevard, with spacious apartments, R. 2iJ2, !>• 3, B. fija fr. ; ''Hotel 
 de France, near the station and the post-office, K- I'l-.;, B. 1 fr. — In the 
 town: ' Faucon (PI. d), K. and L. 2i,-2, B. Iij2, D. 3, A. 1 fr. : 'Pfistern 
 {Abbaije des Jioulangers, PI. ej, near the clock-tower. 'Storch (PI. k); 
 Jlohr (PI. f): Affe (PI. g): Schmieden (Marec/iaux, PI. h): We hern , 
 Marktgasse; these five last are all good second-class houses. — Unpretend- 
 ing : bchlussel (PI. 1.) ; Bar; * \\ i 1 d e r 31 a n n , in the Aarberger Str., 
 Li. Iij4, B. 1, D. inch W. 2 fr. — Pensions Jaggi and Mettenhof, 
 outside the Murtenihor; Pension Zimme r w al d (p. DS). — Hotel el 
 Pension Schanzli, see p. 97. 
 
 Restaurants, etc. K ai Iw ay-Res ta u ran t. Near the station the 
 '"Restaurant du Boul^evard (see above); 'Cafe du !Nord, at 
 the egress from the station: at the Schweizerhof (see above); 
 Cafe Casino near the Toun-hall, terrace with complete view of 
 the Alps. At the pavilion on the M tins t er- T erras se (p. 95), coflee.
 
 iERiNu 
 
 
 i'Ai.r> a 
 
 
 
 '^1 
 
 r^ 
 
 
 #
 
 Fountains. BERN. 28. Route. 01^ 
 
 toa . ices (. '|4 and V-J *'">i '"'•>' '^t' obtained after I p. m. (Sundays 
 after 4 p. ni.); occasionally concerts in the evening. — Outside thr 
 town: =Cafe .Schanzli. now Hotel et Pension des Et rangers 
 (PI. E. 2. 'Rabenthal-Scliiinzli', p. 97), beyond the Railway bridge 
 (>i2M.) on the lofty r. bank of the Aare, to the E. near the new Botanic 
 Oarden, magnificent view; 'Cafe in der Enge (p. 97), 1 M. beyond the 
 Aarberg Gate. 
 
 Bootmaker recommended to mountaineers: Riesen. Spitalgasse. 
 
 Zahnd's Museum, untere Alpenegg 223 d, an extensive collection of 
 stuffed groups of Alpine animals. 
 
 Baths. Sirimminy-Bath at the Holzplatz, below the Bernerhof. River- 
 Baths below the Unter-Thor Bridge, near the ' Pelikan \ The water of the 
 Aare is very cold. — Warm Zfa^As (also Turkish, etc.) at Staub"s, outside 
 the Murtener Thor. in the Laupenstrasse. 
 
 Carriages. One-horse, drive within the town 1 pers. 40 c.; >|4 ^r. 
 1—2 pers. 80 c., 3 — 4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.. every additional 'U hr. 40 or 60 c. 
 Two- horse, at the same fares as for 3 or 4 pers. with one horse. Each 
 box 20 c. small articles free. From 10 p. m. to 6 a. m., double fares. For 
 the entire day. i. e. over 6 hrs., 1—2 pers. 12 fr., 3—4 pers. 18 fr. 
 
 Railway Station near the church of the Holy Ghost, at the W. end of 
 the town. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 21), near the station to the N., entrance 
 in the centre ; branch-office in the Kramgasse. 
 
 English Church Service in the chapel of the Biirgerspital (PI. 23). 
 
 Principal Attractions. If the traveller's time is limited, he 
 should first visit the Miinster-Terrasse (Zahringer monument); iliinstcr- 
 jdatz (monument of Erlach), Miinz - Terrasse (PI. 19), Casino- terrace an<l 
 Council Hall, the great bastion, the Falkenpliitzli , and thence proceed 
 to the Cafe at the Enge; back by the Railway bridge (p. 97). past the 
 newly laid out Botanic garden, to the 'Schanzli' (Cafe', see above). Up 
 to this point the views gradually become more extensive and beautiful. 
 Then back by the Railway bridge, through the town E. as far as the 
 Xydeck bridge (p. 97). and across this to the Bear's Den. — If the visitor 
 finds this walk too fatiguing , he may proceed at once from the great 
 bastion across the railway bridge to the Schanzli, the finest of all the 
 points of view. 
 
 Bern (1650'). capital of the canton, contains 36,002 inhab. 
 ( '264-i Rom. Cath. ), including its extensive suburbs. Bern joined 
 the Confederacy in 1353, and is still the most impoitant of the 
 Swiss cantons . though it has lost Argovie fAargau) and Vaud, 
 wliich became independent in 1798. The city is built on a 
 ]ieninsula of sandstone-rock, formed by the windings of the Aare, 
 which flows 100 feet below. Most of the principal streets run 
 from K. to W. The busiest and most frequented is nearly 1 M. 
 ill length, extending from the Ober-Thor to the Nydeck bridge, 
 under the names of Spitalgasse, Marktgasse , Kramgasse, and 
 (ierechtigkeitsgasse. The houses in the principal parts of the 
 old town are built on arcades (Lauben), beneath which the pave- 
 ment for foot-passengers runs. Of all the towns of Switzerland 
 r>ern has best preserved its characteristic features. 
 
 Most of the numerous fountains are adorned with >tatues. 
 The most ^ingular is the *Kindlifresser-Brunnen (Fountain of 
 the Ogre, PI. 7). in the Corn-liall-^quarc. near the Clock-tower. 
 It is surmounted by a grotesque ligure in the act of devour- 
 ing a child . while several others , doomed to the same fate, 
 protrude from lijs pocket and girdle ; beneath is a troop of armed
 
 94 J!nufe. O'S, ftKKN. Cathedral. 
 
 bearc. The hear, the hei'aldio eraMom of Bern, i? a «-oii5t,aiitly 
 recurring: object. Bruii) appears on the neighbouring Bdren- 
 hrunnen, equipped with shield, sword, banner, and helmet. 
 Two gigantic bears, tolerably executed in granite, keep guard 
 /^ over the pillars of the (W, j Upper-Gate; others support a shield 
 in the pediment of the Corn-Hall (PI. il)^ a handsome building, 
 which till 188U always contained a store of corn in case of fa- 
 mine (beneath it is u spacious wine-cellar frequently visited by 
 strangers). A whole troop of bears go through a performance at 
 the ^Clock-Tower (PI. 'I'd). 
 
 Ai ;J luin. before every hour a wooden cock gives the signal liy 
 clapping its wings and crowing; 1 inin. later the bears march round a 
 sealed ligure, and a harlequin indicates the number of the hour by strik- 
 ing a bell. The cock then repeats his signal, and when the hoar strikes, 
 the seated ligure, an old man with a beard, turns an hour-glass and 
 counts the hour by raising his sceptre and opening his mouth; while the 
 bear on his r. does the same by inclinations of his head: at the same time a 
 stone ligure in the tower above strikes the hour on a bell with a hammer. 
 The cock concludes the performance by crowing for the third time. This 
 spectacle always attracts a number of admirers. The Llock-tovver is now 
 almost in the centre of the town, but ar the lime of its erection (.in- 
 scription: • Bert/ioldus V. dux Zae>iit{/iat , rect. Burgund., urbis conditor 
 turriin et portam fecit a. C/u: lldl, renoc. 1770) it was at the E. ex- 
 tremity, and served as a watch- to>\ er. Another lower of similar con- 
 struction stands in the same street, the Kafifjihiinn (PL 8), farther \V.. 
 now used as a prison. 
 ^ The *Cathedral (PI. loj, a tine Gothic structure, '260' long, 
 
 ''" il2' broad, 7G' high, commenced in 14'2i , completed in 157o, 
 restored in 1850, is remarkable for its beautiful decorations and 
 the open-work Balustrade of the roof, the design of which varies 
 between each pair of pillars. The W. Portal is particularly 
 handsome; the carvings represent the Last Judgment: at the sides 
 the upper figures are the Prophets . the lower the Apostles and 
 the Wire and Foolish Virgins. The unftnished Tower, 234' high, 
 is covered \vith an unsightly tiled roof. The entrance to the 
 tower-stairs is by the side-door in the ^^ . portal. By ascending 
 'I'l'd steps, the visitor reaches the lodge of the tower-keeper and 
 a gallery commanding a beautiful view. The tower-keeper (I/2 
 fr.j exhibits a diagram showing the relative proportions of all the 
 largest bells in the world. 
 
 Interior (admission iJO c. for each pers.). The Choir contains some 
 remarkable specimens of Stained Glass., dating from the loth cent., that 
 of one window representing the dogma of Transubstantiation, that of an- 
 other the Life of Christ. The Choir - Stalls (lol2) on one side are orna- 
 mented with carvings of the Apostles: on the other, Prophets. The re- 
 juainder of the church is almost destitute of ornament. The organ, said 
 to rival the celebrated instrument at Freibui-g ('performance almost every 
 evening in summer, at dusk, adm. 1 fr. , families 2 fr.) . is supported by a 
 vaulted loft, constructed in Itii.S. The cathedral boasts of two Monuments only : 
 one to Berthold von Ziihringen, the founder of Bern (see p. 95), erected by 
 the ci(y in lOOU; and the other U) the magistrate Friedrich von Steiger^ 
 .surrounded by six slabs of black marble bearing the names of the 7U'2 
 men of Bern who fell March 5th. 1798, at Grauholz, 6 31. to the N. of 
 Bern near tlie Zollikofeii sialinn (p. 13). in an encounter with the French.
 
 H: Height aboye the sea -level 
 E : Distance ia a direct liae in Swi 
 
 'IitJi': linjmg Enen-z Qiftsr'bacL 
 
 ^v1k-::j;s1»- 
 
 
 \f. 
 
 Name 
 
 11. IK.i 
 
 
 /-J r//r SchfaUrn ini Ccutf .Lii' 
 
 
 tej'n , rerhls uoii der ^n A'mme : 
 
 1 
 
 Oamsclii^r . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 z 
 
 Thifrweld 
 
 esoo 
 
 9 
 
 ■i 
 
 Mttrual|)ln>n4s(r 
 
 
 
 f 
 
 SlrinwMi^n. 
 
 G300 
 
 9 
 
 i 
 
 Srbeiben^uUfh 
 
 6280 
 
 8\ 
 
 
 6] ?i(./6 H.am Brienter See , 
 
 
 6 Ore me o. Hern mitLuaejm 
 
 
 a . (fbwulilen : 
 
 6 
 
 Brien/fi-Rollih* 
 
 ?n« 
 
 10'* 
 
 7 
 
 Taniih . 
 
 6532 
 
 9\ 
 
 ii: ratn OberhasU , 8 (rrenze r. 
 Bern init Crijeiiseils, 9 (Hess, 
 lies Tri/^engithchcrs. (JH/^e/iArY. 
 Ilm(erlhi('pl). lO'iSfi »% 
 
 Dipchleph. 9950 16 
 
 /0-/,i ihis HohqaM, die^stiis 
 derqr.Kmm^ .die o (in iAm ml' 
 spring, n . voai J/aMem/A : 
 BaMt^tHrnfl. _ J «N 
 
 Fw^^en^iiUrK 1 ft7?? t 
 
 (laklislrittn 
 Kriniie
 
 H Height above the sea level m Fans feet 
 staure in a dirert line in Snss leagues ( U 3m{»M 
 
 VIEW OF THE ALPS FROM BERN 
 FROM THE TERRACE BY THE FEDERAL HALL, 
 
 lutr^.theasU^fmttkiWwtsUnioeU'hwam-poi/its a/' num.
 
 Tho open >paoc to tlic \S . in tiont of tlio catlicdial ha- been 
 t)<lorned vith ■' l>ron/.c *Statuc of Rudolph ran Erlach (?!■ H), 
 the conqueror at l.aupen (p. 150). erected in 1848; at the 
 rorners are four bears modelled l)y Vollmav of Hern : on the 
 pedestal are inscriptions. 
 
 The *Cathedral Terrace (Maihiter-Terrassej , formerly the 
 fhnrchyard nf tlic rntheiiral , is now a shady promenade, fur- 
 nished with ^eat-, and adorned with a bronze statue of Berthold 
 von ZdhriiKjen (I'l. I'J) ('liertholdo V. duel Zaeringlae conditori 
 urbis Beinae civitas , a. l^iT); three sides of the pedestal are 
 covered with bronze reliefs, illustrating the foundation of the 
 city. A bronze bear acts as helmet-bearer. The pavilions at the 
 corners of the platform are used as a Cafe' (p. O'ij. The terrace, 
 115 paces long by 100 wide, 104' above the river and 97' above 
 the street at its base, is surrounded by a balustrade. 
 
 Views. Alpgliihen. The givat atiraciion of Bern is the view it coin- 
 luaudd of the Aips and snuvv-clad peaks of the Bernese Oberland, whiclx 
 in clear weather are visible from every open space ttlie Cathedral and 
 (Jathedral terrace, the Miinz - Terrasse, Federal Hall, Bastion outside the 
 Upper gate, Cafe Schanzli. Enge outside the Aarberg gate). By varying 
 the point of view, the following mountains become visible in addiiion to 
 those represented in the annexed panorama : on the r. of the Doldenhorn. 
 the Balmhovn (, l'i,0'Ji/) with the AIM.< ( ll.'jry2'. 6V\-z^\. distant), and over 
 the Gurten, the bell-shaped summit of the iStockhorn (7211', IS^M.): also 
 to the 1. of iho Schraiien the peaks of the ISpannorter (10,62o', ;jo 31.) and 
 I he Schlossbtrij ( lU-'J-Sb', 54 .M.), both in tlie canton of Iri: the ridge of 
 the Bduchhn near E.scholzraatt (5S13'. ii M.), and the Ftuersttin above the 
 Entlebuch (7138', ;i*» 31.). Nothing can surpass in sublimity the aspect of 
 these mountains at sunset in line weather, especially when the W. horizon 
 is partially veiled with thin clouds, and the phenomenon called the Alp- 
 'jliinen (-(How of the Alps), or yadigl'dheu (-after-glow) is produced. Long 
 after the shadows of evening have fallen upon the valleys, and the linger- 
 ing rays of the evening sun have faded from the snowy peaks themselves, 
 the mountains begin to glow from their bases upwards, as if illumined by 
 a bright in'erual tire. 
 
 The '-^Museum (PI. '20), adiuis-^ion gratis on Tuesdays ami 
 Thursdays from 3 to 5, on Sundays from 10 to 12, is also 
 accessible to strangers daily (1 fr. for J — 3 pers.). In the 
 Museum of Natural lUstorn (in the upper story) the bear of course 
 occupies a very prominent position. The St. Bernard dog 'Barry', 
 which is said to have saved the lives of lo persons, is also 
 exhibited. The collection is the largest in Switzerland, and 
 contains specimens of all the indigenous animals , well worthy 
 of the notice of zoologists. Of foreign animals, remarkable spe- 
 cimens only are exhibited. Some admirable specimens of crystal 
 found in 18G8 at the Tiefenglctscher (p. 138) may be inspected 
 here; one of them is '270 lbs. in weight, and several other> 
 exceed '200 lbs. Small portfolios of drit'd Vlpine plants may 
 be purchased here, price 6 to 50 fr. 
 
 The Museum of Antiquities , in the lower story, contain> 
 curiosities from Japan and Canatla. Roman and Pompeian anti- 
 4iiities. the fteld-altar of Charles the Bold, and other relio of
 
 96 Route 'J8. P.ERN. Feder. Council Hall. 
 
 the booty of (iraiulson and Morat. reliefs, etc. — Adjacent to 
 the museum, on the S. side is the 
 
 University fPl. 30 ) (QOO students), founded in 1834; on the 
 N. side the Library (PI. 3), especially rich in histories of 
 Switzerland, and containing carpets captured in the Burgundian 
 wars C/o fi'-)- 
 
 On the N. side of the town stands the new Kom. Cath. 
 Churcli (PI. 16) in the Gothic style, designed by Deperthes of 
 Kheims . a simplified imitation, on a reduced scale . of the ca- 
 thedral of Rheims. E. of the church stands the Town Hall 
 (Rathhaus, PL 22), dating from 140B. restored in 1868, with a 
 large covered staircase in front , and the arms of the different 
 districts of the canton on the facade. 
 
 The *Picture Gallery (PI. 18) in the upper story of the 
 Federal Council Hall (entrance by the principal portal; adiu. 
 gratis daily, except Saturday, in summer 9 — i, in winter 9 to 
 3 o'clock; from Sept. 15th to Oct. 15th a gratuity must be. 
 given) , contains some good modern paintings , the position of 
 which is. however, occasionally changed. 
 
 I. Room. 2. Albatw^ Virgin and Child; 5. P. Breughel., Eve of Mayday ; 
 1 1. 7)M«^^, Portrait. Casts: /wT^o/, David with the head of Goliath; Sonnen- 
 sr/ieiii. Tomb of Madame Langhans at Hindelbank: Dorei\ design for a 
 tombstone. — II. Room. Rein/iardt, Swiss costumes; 63. Meyer., the 
 Matterhorn : 64, 65. Lorij^ the Scheidegg, Jiingfrau, and Valley of Laiiter- 
 brunnen ; 76. Mind., Group of cats. — III. Room. 100. Didai/, Landscape. 
 Casts: Jmfiof, Hagar and Ishmael, Ruth gleaning. Eve. — IV. Room. 
 128 — 130. Girardet., Pastoral scene, Alms-giving, Going to school; 132. iforitz. 
 The husband at the tavern; 134, 135. Didai/, Valley of Lauterbrunnen, 
 Chalet in the Bernese Oberland : 136. Be Meuron, Chamois-hunter; ===140, 
 141. Calame., Vicinity of the Handcck. Waterfall near Meiringen ; 144. 
 KoHer, Stray cow and calf; 145. 146. Stephan^ Mountain scene in the 
 Canton of Glarus , Landscape from the neighbourhood of Meiringen; 
 152. George., Landscape near Geneva ; 154. 155. Anker., School-examination, 
 The little friend; 159. Vaulier., Saying grace; 163. Humbert^ Herd crossing 
 a brook ; 164. Kappis, Tyrolese village life. — The remaining roora'^ 
 contain casts fnnn the antique, and several modem works. 
 
 The Arsenal (PI. 3'2) was despoiled of its greatest treasures 
 by the P'rench in 1798. but still contains many interesting relics. 
 ^ At the upper (S.W. ) end of the town stands the *Federal 
 Council Hall (Bundefi-Rathhaus) (PI. 32). a handsome edifice in 
 the Florentine style, 174 paces long, 75 wide, completed in 
 1857 (custodian on the r. of the principal entrance . 1 fr. for 
 1 — 3 pers.). The simple grandeur of the different chambers i,< 
 striking. The sessions of the two great national Councils (sec 
 Tntrod. XII), usually held in July, are open to the public; this 
 affords foreigners an opportiuiity of studying the institutions of 
 Switzerland. The speakers use the German (often the Swiss 
 dialect). French, and Italian languages. Speeches of the president, 
 motions, resolutions, etc.. are always translated into French and 
 Italian by an official interpreter. The visitor should not fail to 
 ascend to the platform on the roof, as it commands the most
 
 Enqe. 
 
 BERN. 28. Route. 97 
 
 oxtensivn *vic\v in Kern, ombraciiijj; the heaiitit'iilly-situatcd town, 
 its environs, and the Alps. — Opposite to it is the new Museum., 
 employed as a club, with concert and reading room, etc. ; intro- 
 duction through a member. 
 
 On the E. side of Bern is the *NydeckbrTicke , an imposing 
 striicturo of three arches, completed in 1848. The centre arch has 
 a span of 160'. and is 98' above the Aare. The bridge. 180 paces 
 long, and prolonged on the town side by a viaduct, was constructed 
 .ilinost entirely of erratic blocks from the Kirchet (p. 132). 
 
 On the r. bank of the Aare, close to the bridge, is the new 
 ^Bears' Den {Barengrahen, PI. 2). constructed in 1857, the old 
 den near the Aarberg Gate having been removed to make room 
 for the railway. The ancient Egyptians had not a greater veneration 
 for the Ibis, than the modern Bernese have for the Bear, which 
 would seem to be the tutelary deity, as well as the heraldic 
 emblem, of the canton. Here Bruin in propria persona is sup- 
 ported, according to immemorial nsage. at the expense ot the 
 municipality, and the public are prohibited from making him 
 any olTerings except broad or fruit. On the night of 3rd March, 
 1861, an English ofticer fell into one of the dens, and was 
 torn in pieces by the male bear after a long and desperate struggle. 
 
 Bern is famed for its Charitable Institutions: it po.ssesse.s two 
 orplian Afyliima., a Lvnatir A-ojlmn., a Foundling Hospital (Jtnners)., two 
 hancLsome and spacituis hospitals, the Inselspital (PI. 24) near the Casino, 
 and the Biirgerspital (PI. 23) near the station, with the inscription: '■Chri.^to 
 in paiiperibus^ . The latter was once the larjrest edifice in the town. hut. 
 • now the Penitentiani ( Zuchthavs)., at the .\arberg Gate (capable of accom- 
 modating: 4f!0 inmates ). and the Council Hall compete with it in dimen- 
 sions. The extensive new Lunatic Asylum of Waldau near Bolligen, 2V4 M. 
 to the N.E. of the town, erected in 1854, is fitted up for the receptifm of 
 2(K) patients. 
 
 Crossing the Railway Bridge (see p. 13), at the N.W. end 
 of the town , the traveller passes the Botanic Garden (F\ . O), 
 recently laid out on the sunny slope of the r. bank of the Aare. 
 and reaches (V2 M. ) the *Schanzli (PI. E. 2; Hotel et 
 Pension Schiinzli - Victoria , with dcpendance , pleasant terrace 
 and grounds, baths of various kinds), which commands the finest 
 view in the environs of Bern. In the foregroun<l the city lies 
 extended, above it is the wooded Gurten (see below), to the 1. 
 of which rise the High Alps of the Bernese Oberland, and to 
 the r. the Stockhorn chain: to the extreme W. the Mole'son. 
 About 1 M. from the Aarberg Gate, to the N., on the 1. 
 bank of the Aare, is situated the *Enge, a large peninsula, almost 
 entirely surrounded by the Aare. several hundred feet above the 
 river. This commands another charming view of the city and the 
 Alps. Opposite the N. extremity of the Enge is the castle of 
 Reichenbach (p. 13), 3^/4 M. from Bern (near it a brewery). 
 
 The view from the Gurten (2841'). the lonsr ridge to the S. of Rem. is 
 similar to that from the city, but more extensive. It embraces not only 
 the mountains of the Oberland (p. 95), but also the entire Stockhorn chain. 
 
 R.T-:i>EKKK, ywilzerland. 5th Ediliun. 7
 
 y!5 Route 29. WABERN. Berntse 
 
 the Freiburg Alps, the Jura mountains for a distance of upwards of 100 M., 
 with portions of the Lake of Neuchatel :, to the 1. of the High Alps, the 
 mountains of Untervvuld and Lucerne as far as I'ilatus. (At the summit 
 a new Inn.) The carriage -road from Bern, 4 lU. to the top, leads from 
 the Aarberger Thor to (I'jv ii.) Wabern , whence several paths ascend 
 through a wood to the summit uf the Gurteu. On the hill near are the 
 Jicic/ilelen and Victoria asylums for deserted children. At Klein- Wabern ib 
 the 'Pension lialsiger^ recommended for a prolonged stay. 
 
 Longer excursion to (G M.) Ziminericald ( fension Indermiihle), charm- 
 ingly situated, and (4'jj 31. farther) Biitscheleck (S445'), with extensive and 
 superb view of the Alps. Belpbery see p. 99. 
 
 29. The Bernese Oberland. 
 
 Time. Travellers whose time is very limited may obtain a glimpse 
 at the surpassing beauties uf the Bernese Oberland in three days, but so 
 rapid a survey is hardly compatible with true enjoyment of the scenery. 
 iSuitable places for passing the night are indicated by italics). First day: 
 From Bern by railway in 1 hr. to the steamboat-station Scherzligen beyond 
 Thun, steamboat to Xeuhaus in 1•|^ hr., diligence to Interlaken ij-.' hr.. 
 steamboat to the Oiessbach in •^)4 hr., rowing boat to Brienz in 'j-s ^''-i 
 diligence or two-horse carr. to Meiringen in I'j-^ hr., on foot to the baths 
 of Rosenlaui (2'j.i hrs. ), sufficient time after arrival to visit the glacier. 
 Second day : On foot to the Great Scheideck l'2'j-2 hrs.), Grindelwald (2 hrs.), 
 the Little Scheideck (4'J2 hrs.), the Wengernalp (, 'j-s l""-)^ i" all y'|2 hrs. 
 Third day : On foot to Lauterbrunnen (2ii-2 hrs.), Staubbach, Interlaken 
 (2'|,j hrs.), Xeuhaus (ij'.; hr.), by steamboat to Thun and by railway to JJcrn. 
 — If the traveller has a fourth day at his disposal, he will do well tu 
 ascend the ' Schynige Platte ' ; or he may proceed on the third day to 
 Afiirren, and on the fourth visit the upper part of the Lauterbruunen valley 
 and the Schmadri - Fall ( or extend his walk to the Upper Steinberg), and 
 take a carriage from Lauterbrunueu to iS'euhaus, etc. 
 
 Those who do not wish to return to Bern may proceed on the lirst daj 
 from Bern to the Giessbach by Thun, ]!seuhaus, and Interlaken, back tu 
 Interlaken, and thence to Laiderbrunntn; second day, the Wengernalp, 
 Grindelwald; third day, the Great Scheideck, Meiringen; fourth day, by the 
 Briinig to Lucerne (R. 25), or to the Grimsel (.11. 32), etc. Or a carriage may 
 be taken to Grindelwald , whence the traveller may proceed to Meiringen 
 and the Grimsel on horseback or on foot. 
 
 Tariff of March 23rd, 1866, a copy of which every landlord and driver is 
 bound to possess. One-horse carr. per day 13, two-horse 25 fr. ; from Xeu- 
 haus to Interlaken each pers. 1 fr. From Interlaken to Zweiliitschineu 
 7 or 12 fr. ; to LauterVjrunnen and back, with 3 hrs. halt, 9 or 17 fr. : to 
 Grindelwald and back in one day 14 or 25 fr., in two days 25 or 45 fr. ; 
 to Lauterbruunen and Grindelwald and back in one day 17 or 30 fr., in 
 two days 25 or 45 fr. ; to Grindelwald via Lauterbruunen and the Wengern- 
 alp, the horses being employed by the travellers for riding over the latter, 
 for two days 25 or 55 fr. ; 5 or 10 fr. are also charged for conveying the 
 carriage from Lauterbruunen to Grindelwald ( 3 or 6 fr. , if the excursion 
 be made in the reverse direction) ^ to Lauterbruunen, Miirren, and Grindel- 
 wald and back in two days 28 or 55 fr., in three days incl. the Wengern- 
 alp and Grindelwald 35 or 65 fr., transport of carr. as above; to Habkern 
 or the Beatenberg and back 15 or 25 fr. ; to Wimmis 15 or 25 fr. Charges 
 for other excursions are mentioned in the respective routes. 
 
 Horse or Mule per day, incl. attendant, 11 fr. : if several be engaged 
 at once, 10 fr. From Interlaken: Faulhorn and back in two days 
 30 fr. ; Abendberg and back 10 fr. — From Lauterbruunen: over the 
 Wengernalp to Grindelwald (or vice versa) 15 fr. ;, Miirren 10 fr. ; Trachsel- 
 lauinen and back 15 fr. — From Grindelwald: Faulhuru and back 15 
 (if a night be spent on the summit 22) fr. : to the Lower Glacier 4, to the 
 Upper 6 fr. j to the Mer ue Glace 6, there and back 12 fr. j Little Scheideck
 
 Oberland. THUN. 29. Routt. 99 
 
 li Ir. ; Mannlichon and l)ack 15 t'r. ; Jloirin^cu 21 fr. — From Mciriugeu 
 Koseniaui aud hack 10 ir. ; 8chciileck 10 Ir. i Faulhorn 25 fr. ; Faulh(nu 
 and to Griudolvvald 30 , to i.autcrbrunucn 40 fr. ; Handcck aud back iu 
 (mo day 15, in two days iO t'r. •, Grimsel 25, IMiouc Glacier 3U fr. — Beyond 
 these charges no addition for return -journey can be demanded, except 
 where a horse is employed for a number of consecutive days and dismissed 
 ;it a distance from the place of liiring. 
 
 Guides (see Introd. Vill) G— S fr. per day of 8 hours, return 6 fr. ; porter 
 G fr., return G fr. For the usual route by Lauterbruunen, Oriudelwald, tlie 
 .Scheidcck, Jlciringen, aud Grimsel no guide is necessary. On fine days tlie 
 route is much frequented aud cannot be mistaken. Boys to show the way 
 are contented with 2 fr. per day and no return - payment. They are to he 
 met with at the principal places on the route, at the Grimsel Hospice, at 
 lirien/., or at Grindelw aid. 
 
 Patience ami Small Coin are indispensable in the Bernese Oberland. 
 Contributions are levied upon the traveller's purse under every possible 
 pretence. Vendors of strawljerries, llowers, and crystals first assail him, 
 and he has no sooner escaped their importunities than he becomes a victim 
 to the questionable attractions of a chanuns or a nuxrmot. His admiration 
 must not be engrossed l)y a cascade, ever so beautiful, or by a glacier, 
 ever so imposing and magnificent; the urcliin who persists in standing on 
 liis head, or turning somersaults for the tourist's express enjoyment, must 
 liave his share of attention and something more substantial with it. Again, 
 if tlie route happen to pass an echo, a pistol shot is made to reverberate 
 in one's ears, and payment is of course expected for the unpleasant shock. 
 .Swiss damsels next make their appearance on the scene, and the ebbing 
 patience of the traveller is again sorely tried by the national melodies of 
 these ruthless songsters. Then tliere is the Alpine horn and the Kanz 
 des Vaches, which, although musical when iieard at a distance, are ex- 
 cruciating when performed close to the ear. The fact is, the simplicity 
 and morality of the al>origiual character in these once lonely regions has 
 been sadly marred and corrupted by nujderu invasion. These abuses have 
 become so crying, that the attention of Government has been directed to 
 them, aiul commissioneis have been sent to inquire into the matter. Their 
 advice is: 'Give to nobody '; the remedy therefore lies principally with 
 travellers themselves. 
 
 a. From Bern to Thun. 
 
 Central Swiss Kail w a y. In 1 hr. ; fare 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. GO c. 
 8eat on the right to be preferred, for the sake of the view of the Alps; 
 but from Miinsingeu to Uttiugen on the left. — Those who wish to travel 
 to Neuhaus (Interlakeu) direct should procure through-tickets at Bern. In 
 this case they proceed to the ^chcrzli(jtii (see below) terminus, 'jj M. from 
 Thun, where they emliark without detention. 
 
 The line crosses the Aare bridge (p. 13, beautiful glimpse ol' 
 the wliole Alpine chain on the r.), and then passes the grounds 
 of the Botanic Grarden and the -Schiinzli (p. 97). At Wyler 
 Feld the line troni Bern to Herzogenbuchsee (p. 16) diverges to 
 the S.K. Beautiful view of Bern and tlie Alps on the r. Next 
 stations Osttnnundinytn, Uumlinyen^ Rubiyen., and Munshiyen. On 
 the r. are the Slockhorn chain and the Niesen (p. 10'2j, the ex- 
 treme spurs of the High Alps, and to the 1. the Munch, Juny- 
 ffdu, and Bliindisaip. 
 
 From Miinsingeu to the Belpberg, the only eminence between 
 the Aaif aud the CriirOt. On leaving the railway stat., the road to the r. 
 should 1)0 taken, leading to the (^,4 M. ) ' Schutzenfiihre'. By this ferry 
 the Aare is crossed, and the path (partly cut in steps) ascends (l'i4 hr.) to 
 the //«/:e//( <!)i/v(7it- (2053'), the highest point, which commands a fine survey 
 of the valley uf the Aare as far as Bern and the Jura chaiu, the mouutaius
 
 100 Route 2.9. THUN. Bernese 
 
 iif the Emmcntlinl, Thiin and its lake, witli the Alps from Pilatns to the 
 "Niesen and the Stockhorn chain. The traveller may descend to the S.E. by 
 the village (3M.) of Gerzcnsee (rustic inn), picturesquely situated on a 
 small lake, to the railway station (3 M.) Kiesen. 
 
 Stat. Kiesen. Near stat. Vttigen the line crosses the Aare, 
 and reaches the Thun station, on the 1. bank of the Aare, near 
 the lower bridge V2 ^- from the steamboat wharf; passengers 
 proceeding direct to Nenhans (Interlaken) keep their seats until 
 they reach the Scherzligen terminus and steamboat-station. 
 
 Thun fl844'), with 4623 inhab. (200 Rom. Cath."), charmingly 
 situated on the Aare, ^/^ M. from the point where it emerges 
 from the lake, forms an appropriate introduction to the beauties 
 of the Oberland. 
 
 Hotels. Bellevuc, R. 2, L. 1, B. lij-.., D. 4, S. 3, A. I , pen.sion 7— 
 fr. : delightfully situated outside the town, steamboat-station. — Frcien- 
 hftf, moderate. "Kreuz, R. li'j, B. I1J4, L. and A. 1 fr., fine view from 
 the balcony ; U o t e 1 - P e n s i o n B a u m g a r t e n , R . from lij-^ . pension from 
 Gfr. -, "Krone, adjoining the Town Hall, unpretending; Falke, fine view. 
 
 Pensions. De la Villotte. to the S. , on the road to Hofstetten ; 
 n e 1 1 e V u e ( 8 fr. ) and B e 1 1 e r i v e (5 — 6 fr.) at Hofstetten . opposite to 
 the landing-place at Scherzligen; Schonbiihl, Berustrasse, well situated 
 (5 — 7 fr.). I)es Alpes at Eichbiihl, near the castle of Hiinegg. 1 M. from 
 Thun. — Itten, on the Amsoldingen road, well spoken of (5 fr.). 
 
 Cafe. b e r h e r r e n , opp. the Freienhof, beer. Best beer at G f e 1 1 c r"s 
 brewery, not far from the station, to the 1. on crossing the bridge. 
 
 Telegraph Office at the Post-office. 
 
 Baths in the lake ('[■j fr.), near the Pension des Alpes. 
 
 English Church Service at the chapel in the grounds of the Bellevue. 
 
 Rowing-boat on the lake, according to tarifl" at the Bellevue, 3 fr. per 
 hour. 2 hrs. 5 fr., 3 hrs. 7, ij'i day 8, whole day 10 fr. ; the terms of the 
 boatmen themselves are less exorbitant. Fiacre 40 c. per drive. — Carved 
 Wood at Kefirli-Sterclifs in the grounds of the Bellevue. 
 
 The principal street presents some curious features-, in front 
 of the houses a row of magazines and cellars, about 10' in height, 
 projects, on the flat roofs of which is the pavement for foot 
 passengers and the approach to the shops. Thun is the centre 
 of all the trade of the Oberland. Near the bridge a covered-way 
 of 218 steps leads to the Church, erected in 1837. Picturesque 
 *view from the churchyard, embracing the old-fashioned town, the 
 two arms of the rapid river, the fertile and well-cultivated plain, 
 and the Niesen, beyond which the snow-fields of the Rliimlisalp 
 are visible in all their extent. — Near the churchyard rises the 
 large square tower of the old Castle of Zdhrimjen-Kyburg ( 1182') 
 with a turret at each corner , and within its precincts the more 
 modern Bailiffs' Residence, erected in 1429. The descendants 
 of the barons of Thun have emigrated. The Austrian counts 
 of that name are said to descend from the same family. 
 
 Thun is the seat of the Federal Military School for the education 
 of officers and sergeants, especially for the artillery and engineers. 
 
 Walks: above the town on the r. bank of the Aare, through the grounds 
 of the Bellevtie (access free), to the rotunda on the " Jacohshiiheli (2388'), 
 which commands an extensive "view of the lake, the Alps, Thun, and the 
 valley of the Aare; the 'Pavilion of St. Jacques", the path to which is 
 indicated at the rotunda, lies considerably higher, but the view from it
 
 Oberland, WIMMIS. 29. Route. 101 
 
 only euibiacos Tlmn aiul the vallej of tlie Aare; the Alps and the lake aio 
 not visible. - .'vnothei' walk may l)o taken on the bank of the lake by a 
 shady path on the Biic/iit/tatt, to the coniuiencement of the (I 31. j Bdchigul 
 (lyiu'Ji t''*i park of which (the Bachiholzli) conunands some lovely views. 
 Admission only on application to the proprietor, M. de Parpart. 
 
 The handsomest of the villas on the lake is Hcliadau ( the property 
 of .M. de lL(;iigemuntj, a modern biiildinj^ in the (-(jthic style, charmingly 
 situated, without pretension to architectural taste, but of a picturesque 
 general elVect. The sculptures in .sandstone with which it is decorated 
 deserve inspection. On Sundays the garden is open to the public. — 
 Farther on, on the r. bank, is the chateau of Hiiiitgg ., the property of 
 .M. de Parpart, constructed in the French Renaissance style. 
 
 Interesting Excursions: T/tierarfieni V Lowe, pension 3' j-.. to 5 fr., 
 beautiful view) 3 iM. to the W. ; 3 M. farther VV., Ba,d Blumeuslein and the 
 FallOach; hence in 2';-.' hrs. to the Ournigel (5!l7y'j, on the X.W. slope of 
 which, 3|4 hr. below the summit, are the much freijuented Baths (37sy') of 
 the same name (K. 1, M. 1 fr.). Biirgistein (2691/), village and castle with 
 lovely view, ilM. N.W. of Thun. AnisoUlingen Cilomnn tombstones). 6 M. S.W., 
 and the ancient tower of ^IriUtUngen (p. 144), o^j^ M. S. of Thun. The un- 
 dulating district between the Stockenthal and Thun abounds with the most 
 delightful walks and magnilicent mountain landscapes. 
 
 To Freiburg {'li 31.) a direct road leads through (931.) Riggisberg 
 (2G4V) (.-'Hirsch), beyond which a line view of the Stockhorn, the Kiesen, 
 and the snow-peaks of the Bernese Oberland is enjoyed ; then crossing the 
 Schwai'zwasser to (l^l-i^l.) Sc/iwarzenburg, and crossing the Sense, which 
 here separates the cantons of Bern and Freiburg, to (KJij-j 31. j Freiburg. 
 
 To Saanen through the valley of the Simmen. .see K. 38. 
 
 b. The Niesen. 
 
 Comp. Map p. 98. 
 
 Three good bridle-paths, which cannot be mistaken, lead to the summit : 
 1st, on the i<. side from Wimmis in 5 (down in 3) hrs. ; 2nd, on the E.< from 
 the Heustrich-Bad, ^(4 31. from 3Iiihlenen (p. 145), in the same time ; 3rd, on 
 the S., from Fruligen (p. 145) in 5—6 hrs. 
 
 From Thun to Wimmis i>y the road T'j-j 31. (one-horse carr. in IIJ4 hr. 
 7 fr. ; travellers may avail themselves of the Gessenay and Weissenburg 
 diligences as far as Brothausi, see p. 153). Steamboat to Spiez ( p. 103) ; 
 thence by Spiezvvyler to Wimmis 'd^\\ 31. — An omnibus runs from Thun 
 to the Heustrich-Bad; one-horse carr. in lij-j hr., 7 fr. — Diligence from 
 Tlmn to Frutigen once daily. 
 
 Horse to the top of the Xiesen, and back on the same day, from 
 Wimmis or Frutigen 15, from Heustrich 13; if a night be spent on the 
 summit, 20 fr. From Frutigen to Wimmis or Heustrich over the Niesen 
 in one day 30, two days 35 fr. — Uuide (unnecessary) U, if kept till ne.xt 
 day, 8 fr. Chair porters 10 fr. each ; if kept till next day, 12 fr. 
 
 From the post-station Brothausi (p. 153) a footpath descends 
 to the 1., to the deep and stony bed of the Smimen, crosses 
 it by a wooden bridge (destroyed in 18G7J and ascends to Wim- 
 mis. The carriage-road describes a circuit of 1 M. 
 
 Wimmis ('2342') (*Lbwe) . is pleasantly situated in a fertile 
 district at the E. base of the Buryfluh (5072'J, and overlooked 
 by a castle, now occupied by a school and the district-authori- 
 ties. The church is said to have been founded by King Ru- 
 dolph 11. of Burgundy, in 933. 
 
 The path hence to the Niesen ascends on the S. side of the 
 liurgtluh. At the village-fountain it proceeds in a straight direc- 
 tion, after 25 min. it turns to the 1. by a gate; the (l'2min.) Stal- 
 deiibacli is then crossed, after which tlie route no longer presents
 
 102 Route 2.9. NIESEN. Bernese 
 
 any difflciilties. The bridle-path asccnrls the N. slopes of the 
 Bettfluh. Refreshments at the first inhabited chalet on the 'Bergli'. 
 
 About half-way, by the chalets of Vnterstnlden, the path 
 crosses to the r. bank of the Staldenbach , and by nnmerons 
 ■windings ascends the snnny slopes of the Niesen, passing the 
 chalets of Oher^tnlden. The prospect first unfolds itself beyond 
 the Staldenegg, a sharp ridge connecting the Bettfluh (7921', 
 also called Fromherghorn or Hinter-Niesen) with the Niesen, 
 and the vast snow-fields of the Bliimlisalp and Doldenhorn become 
 visible. 
 
 From the H e u s t r i c h - B a d (p. 145") the hridle-patli ascends in wind- 
 ings for 1 hr. to the W., through heaTitiful heech plantations, then 1J2 hr. to 
 the S. to the 'Schlechtcnwaldogg"' (superb view); finally 2'J2 hrs. due N. 
 to the summit of the Niesen. The path is provided with benches, on 
 which the distances and altitudes are inscribed. "Numerous and diversified 
 points of view on this route. (Drinking water scarce.) 
 
 From Frutieen (p. 145) the bridle-path diverges 1. near the end 
 of the village, and crosses the meadows to Winllen (1(2 br.), whence the 
 path ascends in windings through the wood for 1(2 hr. Then a gentle 
 ascent across the meadows to the Sentir/raben (li|2hr.), to the Xhsfnegg 
 (20 niin.) and tbo A^k.^pn-ChaJet OU ^r.'). The path unites on the F^tnhlenegg 
 (1 hr.) with that from Wimniis. This route affords a beautiful retro.spective 
 view of the Kanderthal nnd the Alps. 
 
 Inn , 5 min. from the summit, R. from 2'|2, P.. l^fi, P. or S. 3'l4, L. 3|i, 
 A. 1(2 fr. ; 40 c. charced for fire in the dining-room. 
 
 The *Niesen (7763', Rigi 5905', Faulhorn 8803'), the con- 
 spicuous N. outpost of a ramification of the Wildstrubel , like 
 Pilatns, considered an infallible barometer (see p. 54"), has the 
 form of a gently sloping pyramid: the rocks at the base are 
 composed of clay-slate . those of the upper portion are sand- 
 stone-conglomerate. The simimit consists of a narrow ridge, 
 terminated by two small peaks , below one of which the inn is 
 situated •, the other , 300 paces from the inn , is somewhat 
 higher, and commands an unbounded prospect. The Alps are 
 seen to greater advantage than from the Rigi ; indeed, the view 
 is scarcely inferior to that from the Faulhorn. As the group 
 of the Wetterhorner, etc. forms the foreground of the view from 
 the latter, so the Niesen commands an uninterrupted prospect of 
 the broad snow-fields of the Bliimlisalp , rising at the extremity 
 of the Kienthal. 
 
 View. The most prominent of the snow -mountains are the following : 
 in the distance to the E. the Titlis; nearer, the Wetterhorner and Schreck- 
 horner, the Eiger, Monch, .Tungfrau, Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, 
 Grosshorn, Breithorn, and Tschingelhorn ; towards the S. the Fran or 
 Bliimlisalp, the Doldenhorn, Balmhorn, and Altels ; to the W. , the Wild- 
 horn, appearing between two black peaks ; 1. of these the pinnacles of the 
 3Iont Blanc group ; finally the two peaks of the Dent du Midi, forming the 
 last snow -group towards the W. The entire lake of Thun is visible, as 
 well as a portion of that of Brienz. The thickly peopled valleys of the 
 Simmen, Engstligenbach, and Kander, and the Kienthal may be traced for 
 a considerable distance. Towards the K. the course of the Aare, and the 
 hilly country of Bern, as far as the .Tura, complete the prospect (comp. the 
 Panoramas at the inn). The most favourable light is towards sunset. During 
 the day the plains alone are seen to advantage.
 
 OherhiUfl. ?.') Tfnufe 103 
 
 c. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. 
 
 Comp. Map p. ^f). 
 Steamboat 3 times daily in I'fj hr. from Thun { f^rherzligen ; 
 romp. p. 100) to Ncnhaus, fare 2 fr. or 1 fr. ; to Oontcn or Spioz 1 fr. 20, or 
 fiO c. ; for each b(^)x 50 r. O m n i b u s or other conveyance from Neuhaiis 
 to Interlaken in '[.> lir., I fr. 
 
 The Lake of Thun (18240 is Wj., M. lonp, and Vj^ M. 
 broad. Tho banks are at first stndded with piotnrcsqnc villas 
 and gardens, bnt fnrtlier on, the N. bank becomes somewhat 
 precipitons. 
 
 On the Northern Bank, S M. from Thun by tho road, lies Merlipon ; 
 thence to Unterseen 7' 2 31- Part of this route may be performed by 
 steamboat as far as Oonten ; thence on foot to Neuhaus, or vice versa. A 
 road leads from Thun to H i 1 te r f in fien ( Pcna. des Alpcx), 01>erhofen 
 ( firlr) , whore ('f)unt Pourtales possesses a jucturesque chateau, once the 
 residence of Walther von Eschonbach, and (3 31.) Go n ten C ire /.<;.<:<'.': Kretiz ; 
 ■'Pension du Lar)^ skirtine the bank of the lake the latter part of the way. 
 From Gonten a paved bridle-path, several hundred feet above the level of 
 the lake, passes the rustic sanitary cstab. of S ipri swyl (fm tho eminence 
 to the 1.), and descends to the castle of Ralligen and (5 M.) Merlig:en 
 ( Loiee), where a few years aco a thunderstorm of creat violence destroyed 
 17 liouses. Beyond the waterfall the path is narrow and precipitous. 
 About t hr. beyond Jlerlisien, near the end of the wood , a broad path di- 
 verainc to the r. must be avoided. — The cavern of St. Beatus, near this 
 T>ath, deserves a visit (see below and pp. 104. 107). 
 
 The Southern Bank (IS 31. by the carriage-road) scarcely repays the 
 pedestrian, but affords a delightful drive. 
 
 The Steamboat starts from the Freienhof hotel (romp, 
 p. 100), aTid ascending the Aare, stops at the Bellevue (p. 100"), 
 t1ien at Srherzlifjen, the railway-terminns (comp. p. 100). To the 
 1. lies the picturesque Barhiytit (p. 101); to the r., where the 
 Aare emerges from the lake, Srhloss Schaddii (p. 101). The Stock- 
 horn (7211'). with its rounded summit, and the pyramid of the 
 Niesen (7763') rise on the r. and 1. of the entrance to the val- 
 leys of the Kander and Simmen (p. 145). L. of the Niesen the 
 three peaks of the Bliimlisalp; r. in the background of the Kan- 
 derthal, the Freundhorn, Doldenhorn, Balmhorn with the Altels, 
 and the Rindcrhorn gradually become visible (from 1. to r.). 
 In tho direction of Interlaken appear successively (from r. tol.) 
 tlio Jutigfrau, Monch, Eiger, Schreckhorn, and Wetterhorn. 
 
 The boat skirts the N.E. bank , the lower portion of which 
 is covered with vineyards, the upper with woods, and passes the 
 pleasai\t village of Hilterfim/en ; 1. the chateau of fliinefii/ (p. 101). 
 it then halts at Oherhofen (see above) , with a castle of Count 
 Pourtales and a hospital founded by him, and at Gonten, above 
 which is the church of Si(frhiryl on the height. The steamer 
 now crosses the lake at the broadest part, and proceeds in a 
 S. direction to Spiez (*Penii. Schlmeyy, 5 fr.), a small village on 
 a promontory on the S. bank, with a picturesque old castle, for 
 300 years the property of the von Erlach family (ascent of the 
 Niesen, p. 102; diligence to Frutigen. p. 145). Near Spiez, 
 towards the E., two black peaks (above the S. bank of the lake
 
 104 Route •29. INTERI.AKF:N. Bernese 
 
 of Brienz) are visible tor a short distance : that to the r. is the 
 Faulhorn, the broader to the 1. the Schwarzhorii. 
 
 As the steamboat proceeds towards Neuliaus, the Raliigstocke 
 (4901') and the Siyriswyler Rotkhorn (6T42'J are conspicuous 
 above the N. bank. Beyond MerlUjen (see above) a rocky head- 
 land called the Nase , stretches into the lake. A little further, 
 on the N. side, rises the Beatenberg, with the Cavern of St. Bea- 
 tus (Beatenhohle, 2782'J. The stream which flows from it fre- 
 quently increases rapidly, and lliling the entire cavern, bursts forth 
 from it with a roar like thunder. St. Beatus, the first pronnilgator 
 of Christianity in this district, is said to have dwelt in this cave. 
 
 The steamer stops at Neuhaus {Hotel Neuhaus , with restau- 
 rant), where carriages are in readiness to convey travellers to 
 Interlaken (i fr.). A post-omnibus also runs to the starting-place 
 of the steamers on the lake of Brienz (1 fr.). On the road from 
 Neuhaus to (i^/4 M.) Unterseen and Interlaken, views of the 
 Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger are obtained. To the r. , on an 
 island at the influx of the Aare , are the ruins of Weissenau. 
 
 d. Interlaken and its Enviions. 
 
 Hotels and Pensions. At Inteiiakea itself, in the direction from the 
 lake of Thun to tliat of Brienz: Hotel Ritscliard, pension 8 fr. ^ 
 ■V i c t o r i a , comfortable, R. 2i|2, !>. 4 fr. \ J u n g f r a u , a new and spacious 
 edifice, R. 2, L. and A. 1, B. lij^ fr. ; S cli weizerho f ; -Belvedere, 
 by the Cursaal ; -llotel des Alpes; Casino^ 'Hotel Interlaken; 
 Elmer; Volz; -'Hotel Beaurivage, handsomeSy fitted up, with 
 river and shower baths , grounds, and fine view. These handsome hotels, 
 situated on the so-called 'llohewcg" (,P- ItJiJ) and erected within the last 
 30 — 40 years, were originally fitted up as ■Pensions'' only, but now accom- 
 modate travellers at the usual hotel prices. Xear the steamboat-quay on 
 the lake of Brienz is the = Hotel du Lac, R. 2 fr., L. 1(2 fr. , B. 1 fr. 
 — Coming from the Lake of Thun the traveller first reaches the ' Eiger, 
 then (li|2 M.) Beau- Site (pens, from 5 fr.) , with beautiful view ot the 
 .lungfrau, and Hotel Untersee^n. Near Unterseen on the Spiebnatten, 
 a small island in the Aare, -HoteTdu Pont (pension from 5 fr.) ; then 
 in the village of Aarmiihle y beyond the second bridge over the Aare, 
 Bellevue; Rossli, adjoining the post-office; Wei.sses Kreuz, un- 
 pretending; opposite to it, Ob er lander Hof, a large hotel with a 
 cafe, R. 2, D. 3, A. ij2 fr. — On the road from Aarmiihle to Matfen 
 (Gsteig, Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen , etc.): Wyder; Deutsches II a us, 
 pension 5 fr. ; adjacent -Hotel Reber, pension 5 fr. ; '14 M. farther, on 
 the 1. side of the road, -Ober, or the 'Schlosschen' ; near it. Pension 
 Bischofsberger, new. Before the latter is reached, a road diverges to 
 tlie r., leading to the 'J un gf r aub li ck (3|4 M. from Unterseen) , situated 
 on a spur of the wooded Kleine Ritfjen (p. 105) and commanding an unbroken 
 view, with pleasant grounds, and comfortably fitted up ; baths, whey, etc. ; 
 pension before July 1st and after Sept. loth only, 7ij-. — 9 fr., R. 2i|.— 4, B. 
 li|2, D. 4 or 41 J2, L. and A. li|2 fr. — Farther from Interlaken, beyond the 
 bridge, which crosses the Aare near the Hotel du Lac, and on the road 
 to Brienz, is situated (3/4 M.) 'Campagne Felsenegg' (pension 5i|2 fr. ; 
 also a cafe-restaurant). — At Maiten (see above) Hotel and Pension Matten- 
 b of. — At Bonicjen on the S. bank of the Lake of Brienz, 11(2 M. E. of 
 Interlaken, recommended to those in search of retirement: -Pension 
 Vogel, 'Pension Bijnigen, and -Chalet du Lac. — On the Aheiid- 
 berg (p. 1U9) (2i|2 hrs.), 'Hotel Bellevue. — At Beatetibery (p. 109, car- 
 riage-road, in 2 hrs.: one-horse If). t\vu-h..rse 25 fr. ), I! At el d r s Alpe.-,
 
 Oherland. INTEIiLAKEN. 'JU. Routt. 105 
 
 c nnmaiuling a fine view of the Alps from the Finsteraarhorn to the Niesen ; 
 ' •_' il- hijjher up, Bellovue, also oinmanding a magnificent view, pension 
 in Ijoth 4—6 Ir.' 
 
 The -Cursaal d'l n t crl a k en' is situated on the Htiheweg, between 
 the Schvveizerhof and the Belvedere. It was opened in 1859, but since 
 the government has prohibited gambling, it has been fitted up for reading, 
 concert, and ball-rooms. The hotel-keepers, at whose expense this es- 
 tablishment is kept 111), make a charge in their bills for its use. — New 
 Waterworks supply the town abundantly. — Wrestliiirj Matches (fee charged 
 for adm.) see lntn)d. XII; the tourist should witness one of these, if he 
 has had no opportunity of being present at a genuine fete, in order to gain 
 some idea of this national custom. 
 
 Bankers: Ebersold :<: Seiler. - Druggist: Seewer. 
 
 Carriages, Horses, Guides, see p. 9S. Donkeys., l',i fr. per hr. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Office in Aarnuihle, by the Oberliinder Hot'. 
 
 English Church Service in the old Convent Church. 
 
 The low laiul bet\veen the lakes of Thun and Brienz, 2V4 M. 
 ill length, is termed the 'Bodeti.' Formerly these two lakes 
 probably formed one sheet of water only, but were gradually 
 separated by the deposits of the Lidschine (p. llOj flowing into 
 the Lake of Brienz. and the Lomhach into the Lake of Thun. These 
 accumulations, first from the S., out of the valley of Lauter- 
 brunnen, and then from the N. out of the Habkeren valley, 
 together serve to account for the curve, which the Aare has been 
 compelled to describe. On this piece of land, -between the 
 lakes', lies luterlaken with the adjacent villages of Aarmiihle 
 and Unterseen , stretching in a connected line nearly as far as 
 the Lake of Brienz. 
 
 Coming from Neuhaus on the Lake of Thun (_p. 104j, the 
 traveller rtrst reaches the pensions Eiger and Beau-8ite (p. 104j, 
 then Unterseen (1837'J, a small town with 1880 inhab. Most of 
 the houses are of wood, and many bear traces of great age. 
 There are large manufactories of parqueterie at Unterseen and 
 Aarmiihle. 
 
 The road to the small island of Spiebnatlen (hotel, see p. 104) 
 crosses the Aare by a bridge (Schaaibrucke) , which commands 
 a picturesque view 01 the foaming river , its weirs, the precipi- 
 tous rocks on the r. bank, various mills, bridges, old wooden 
 houses, and dark pine woods (Kleine Rugen^ see below), and 
 tovvering above all the glistening snow-tields of the Jungfrau. 
 
 By a modern iron bridge (Hohebriicke), which crosses another 
 arm of the Aare, the village of Aarmuhie (hotels see p. 104) is 
 reached, which, together with Interlaken, has a pop. of 1813. At 
 its termination, the 'Hijhewey' connnences, an avenue of fine old 
 walnut-trees, much injured however by a storm in 18G1. The 
 pensions and hotels mentioned at p. 104, as well as a 
 number of the attractive shops and stalls usually seen at 
 watering-places, are situated here. Near the extremity of this 
 venue is the former monastery and nunnery of Interlaken, 
 tounded in 1130, and suppressed in 15'28. The E. wing of the 
 monastery is used as a luispital for the poor; the remaintler of
 
 106 novte 29. TNTERLAKEN. Berne.^e 
 
 the buildiiiff, to wliich tlio castle was added in 1750, serves as 
 ^overnniont-nfflees. The nunnery has been converted into a prison. 
 The tower and chancel are the only remaining; parts of the church, 
 wOierc English Divine Service is performed every Sunday during 
 the season. The former English chapel is now a Rom. Cath. 
 place of worship. 
 
 Interlaken is deservedly a point of attraction to visitors from 
 all parts of Europe ; the whey-cure is an inducement to some, 
 whilst many make it their head-quarters for excursions in the 
 Oberland , or select it as a resting-place and for the enjoyment of 
 the magnificent scenery by which it is surrounded. It is particu- 
 larly recommended to travellers whose time and resources are 
 ample, as it affords facilities for numerous excursions among 
 the valleys and heights of the Oberland, in the intervals between 
 which the strength may be recruited, and repose enjoyed. 
 
 Walks. The immediate vicinity abounds in charming walks. 
 -'^ To the Junc/frmiblick, see p. 104. — To the *Kleine Rugen f2483') 
 \l-2 hr. A broad path (from the Jungfraublick to the r. at a circular 
 bench) , provided with benches, ascends gradually, affording ever 
 varying views of the Bodeli and the lakes of Thun and Brienz, 
 and leads to the TrinkhnUe (Restaurant), a long covered building 
 with a terrace. This point commands the finest prospect of the 
 Jungfrau, Monch, and valley of Laiiterbrunnen. The path then 
 continues its circuit of the hill, and at a circular plateau turns 
 to the r. The ascent towards the right affords the finest succes- 
 sion of views. From this walk numerous shady and pleasant 
 by-paths diverge, leading to different points of view and resting- 
 places. The summit of the hill also affords a view, the trees 
 by which it was formerly obstructed having been removed. — 
 The prospect from the ruined castle of TJnspunnen (2 M.), 
 embraces the valley of Lauterbrunnen , the Jungfrau, and the 
 Monch; it may be reached by a path which diverges to the r. 
 from the Lauterbrunnen road between Matten and Wilderswyl, 
 beyond the Kleine Rugen ; or through the Wagneren ravine, which 
 opens towards the road from Matten to Thun . a short distance 
 beyond the Rugen path. — To the *Heimweh-Fluli 3/^ hr. In 
 the Wagneren ravine, about 200 yds. from the entrance, a narrow 
 path diverges to the r. , and ascends rapidly to the foot of the 
 rock ('/4 hr.), whence a rugged flight of steps leads to the rocky 
 terrace. The *Vieui embraces the Bodeli, the lakes of Thun and 
 Brienz, the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger (Restaurant below the 
 terrace). — The ruined castle of Weissenau (2 M.), on an island 
 formed by the Aare where it enters the lake of Thun (p. 104), 
 is reached by the old road from Matten, as well as by the road 
 from Unterseen to Thun. — In the opp. direction, on the r. bank 
 of the Aare, the ascent of the Hohbuhl (2247', V2 ^r.) is fre- 
 quently made; the path ascends to the 1, by the first house
 
 Oherlfwd. INTERI-AKEN. 2.9. noufe. 107 
 
 beyond tlio Zollbriicke fp. 104), rand to tlio r. traverses the 
 woods to a pavilion coinmandinp: a bcantiful view (tlie path to the 
 1. leads to Vofjtsru.he on the Aare, a restins:-plare and fountain). 
 The prospect is still more extensive from the prassy slopes of 
 the Vnfere Bleicki , a few hundred pares hijrhcr. (The footpath 
 leads to the r., crossing the brook after 10 min. walk.) From the 
 Hohbiihl a path descends to the Voptsruhe , and, following the r. 
 bank and passinjr a shootinp:-cround . leads to the narrow and 
 stony plain of Goldei, between the Harder and the Aare, at the 
 base of the Fnlkenfluh, the upper part of which (Hnrdermannli) 
 seen from a cood point of view , bears a resemblance to an old 
 man's face. On a barren eminence below the Falkenfluh, and 
 accessible by a path from the Goldei, a pavilion has been 
 erected, termed the Liistbiihl , commanding a beautiful view of 
 Interlaken and the Jun^frau. Further on. some caverns, called 
 the Zirerfflorher , are seen in the walls of the Harder. From 
 the Goldei the traveller may either return by Unterseen . or (by 
 a footpath to the r.) ascend the hill '/m Brand', where a court 
 of judicature was anciently held; thence to the 1. in ^1^ hr., 
 crossing the Lombach , to the Erk. a hill at the base of the 
 Beatenberp:; all beautiful points of view. — The Thurmherg, 
 ascended from Golzwyl (I'/o M.). beyond Fclsene^jr on the road 
 to Brienz (p. 104) , also affords a beautiful panorama of the 
 lakes of Thun and Brienz , the course of the Aare , and the 
 small, gloomy lake of Golzwyl, or Fmilensee. — Another walk 
 may be taken by the same road to (3 M.) Jiinggenherg , with 
 picturesque church constructed among the ruins of the castle 
 (beautiful view), and to the Schadenburg (IV2 ^- farther), 
 situated on a spur of the Harder, an unfinished castle of the 
 ancient barons of Ringgenberg. 
 
 A steamboat (pp. 103. 127) plies in summer at least 3 times 
 daily to the *Giessbach on the Lake of Brienz. Footpath to the 
 Giessbach, see p. 127. 
 
 To the Bentenhohle (p. 104), with its (in spring) beautiful 
 waterfall, from Neuhaus by boat (5 fr. ; 2 hrs. going and re- 
 turning), passing the picturesque villa of Leernu; or by a foot- 
 path (to tlie T. before Neuhaus is reached), passing the Ki'iblis- 
 hnd and the village of Simdlnuenen (1 Vi ^^^■)- -^'ifl in some places 
 skirting the brink of the precipice above the lake, but not 
 dangerous. 
 
 Bomgen (l'/-? M). (inteig (p. 100), with a beautiful view 
 from the churchyard (2 M.), and (isteigtryler (3/4 M. farther) 
 with the Ifohe Steg (bridge) over the Liitschine, are likewise 
 pleasant objects for a walk. 
 
 Longer Excursions. The *Schymge Platte (6181') is 
 one of the finest points of view in the Oberland. There is 
 probably no other from which the valleys of Lauterbrunnen and
 
 108 Route 29. SCHYNIGK PLATTE. Bernese 
 
 Grindelvvald are simultaneously visible in their entire length. 
 (Horse, incl. carriage to Gsteig, 15 t'r). From Interlaken to (2 M.J 
 Gsteig, see p. 109. Crossing the bridge at the church and turn- 
 ing to the r., a good road leads to Gsteiywyler (3/4 M.j. In the 
 middle of the village the path ascends to the 1. , and a little 
 farther, to the 1. again. The way cannot now be mistaken. A 
 shorter footpath from Gsteig (1. between the cliurch and innj, 
 avoiding Gsteigsvyler , unites with the above path after 1 M. 
 A wood is soon entered, beyond which the (l'/2 hr.) lower, and 
 then the (V.2 hr.) upper terrace (74 hr. below it, 20 paces 
 r. of the road , excellent spring-water) of the Breitlauenen-Aip 
 (view of the lakes, refreshments at the chalet) are reached. 
 Finally a zigzag path leads to the (40 min.) summit of the moun- 
 tain ridge, and crosses its W. extremity (to the r. the 'Ameiseji- 
 haufen' or 'ants' hillock', a jagged rock). A few steps bring the 
 traveller to a scene of striking magnificence : the Lauterbrunnen 
 valley lies before him. to the 1. towers the majestic Jungfrau, at 
 his feet are dizzy precipices , descending almost perpendicularly 
 to the Liitschine. Following the 8. slope of the ridge for 1/2 hr., 
 the traveller arrives at the *Hotel Alpenrose (R. 272? 1^- i'/-2' '^• 
 1 fr.). The Platte, a crumbling slate-rock, glistening in the sun's 
 rays (whence its appellation), is about 60 paces from the hotel. 
 The finest view is obtained a few paces before the summit is 
 attained . at a bend in the path. (The traveller should not 
 omit to visit the ISelten Alp, 1/4 ^''- *o ^^'^ N.E. , a pasture 
 which affords support to a herd of 600 cattle, the tinkling 
 of whose bells produces pleasing harmony). To enjoy a 
 complete panorama the traveller should skirt (to the 1.) the 
 base of the Qamihorn (7493'), N. W. of the Platte, and ascend 
 the somewhat lower Taubenhorn ('Tubihorn') (a walk of 7^ ^^''• 
 from the Plattej, whence the prospect of both lakes, Interlaken, 
 the Gumihorn, and other peaks is remarkably fine. The height 
 above the Schynige Platte (20 min.) commands a fine panorama 
 of the Alps, but the view into the valleys is inferior to that from 
 the Platte. Boys to show the way or carry luggage may be 
 found in Gsteigwyler (1—2 fr.). A new path leads hence to the 
 Faulhorn in 4 hrs. , see p. 121. Descent from the Platte by 
 Oandlischwand to Zweiliitscfiinen in 2 — 272 lirs. 
 
 The Harder (4626' , 2 hrs.) should not be ascended without 
 a guide , as accidents have occurred from the dangerous nature 
 of the path. 
 
 The Habkernthal, between the Harder and Beatenbery, may 
 may also be explored. Carriage-road to the village of (6 M.) 
 Habkern (3675'; rustic inn), from which the pedestrian may 
 visit the three following points of view: (1) the *Gemmenalp- 
 horn (7035') or Giiggisyrat, by the Brandliseyy, or following the 
 course of the Biltdbach . in 4 hrs. [better still from Unterseen
 
 Oherland. SUI.KCK. 'J'.K Route. 100 
 
 direct to Wdtdec/cf fSOHO'. a lianilot in tlio parish of Bealenhertf) 
 in 2 hrs.. and thence by the Oherberi/ to the summit in 3 lirs.]; 
 
 (2) the Hnhijant (7216'), by the Boldegu (5167') and Hafjletsch- 
 (dp., or by the Alp Bosalc/nu and through the Karrholen in 4 hrs. 
 (a path 8. from the Hohjzant leads over the Grunenhenj . a pass 
 between Habkern and Schanynau in the Emmcnthal. in 6 hrs.); 
 
 (3) the AiK/stmatthorn {Sugyithurm , 6929'J . by the Bodencdp 
 (2 hrs."). and thence to the summit in I'/j ^'^• 
 
 The Abendberg fGOOO') is also frequently ascended for the 
 sake of the view, wliich is still more extensive from the Rothe 
 Eck. the next peak of the range, the culminating point of which 
 is the Moryenberghorn (7-425') above Leissiyen. The path is at 
 first the same as that from the Lauterjjrunnen road to Unspunneu; 
 before reaching the ruin , however . it enters the beech-wood to 
 the r., and ascends. On the Abendberg. at a height of 3600' 
 (27-2 hrs. from Interlaken, bridle-path to this point), is situated 
 the Pem'ion Bellevue, beautifully situated. 
 
 The Sax'eten Valley lies between the Abendberg and Bellen- 
 hochst (6138'); to the village of Saxeten (3566') 21/2 hrs. (ac- 
 commodation at the schoolmaster's); yf-y hr. further are the falls 
 of the Gurben and Wg/.ss^ac/j, and the valley is beautifully closed 
 by the Schwalmern (8981'). — Between the latter and the 
 Morgenberghorn is a rugged pass over the Alp Renyyli (5626') 
 through the Suld-Thal to Miihlenen on the Kander, or to Aeschi 
 above the Lake of Thun. 
 
 The *Suleck (7910'). affording one of the finest prospects 
 of the Alps, may be ascended from vSaxeten (see above) by the 
 Alp Nessleren to Bellenkdchen (5889') I72 ^r. , thence to the 
 summit in 3 hrs. The ascent is easier from Tusenfluh (see below ): 
 thence to the Alp Suis 17^' to the summit I72 ^^- Eisenfluh 
 (^Isenfiuir) itself merits a visit on account of the splendid view 
 of the Jungfrau ; besides the path to it from Ziceililtschinen (see 
 below), a second ascends the Sausbach opposite the Htinnenfluh. 
 — Interlaken may also be made the head-quarters for most of 
 the following excursions. 
 
 e. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach. 
 
 Comp. Maji j>. 98. 
 
 7'|j JI. C'arri;i^e thcro aiui hark, (Hie-hnisc 9, t\v(i-lii>isc 17 fr. . see 
 p. 98; onc-liorsc carr. from Interlaken to Zweiliitsciiinen 7 t'r. 
 
 The high-road first traverses fertile orchards and rich 
 meadows, and passes (1 M.) through Matten (Ilirsch). where it 
 divides; that to»the r. is the shorter (•"^/4 .M.) to Wildersiryl mid 
 (74 M.) Mi'dlnen ; that to the 1., the longer ('/4M. more), leads 
 to the Church of Gsteiy (*Kreuz), the parish church of the entire 
 valley on this side of the Aare, including Interlaken itself. Near 
 (7-2 M.) MiiUnen, the two roads re-unite; the Saxetenbaoh is 
 crossed , and a narrow gorge soon entered , through which the
 
 no -Route -Jy. LAUTERBRUiNNEN. Bernese 
 
 LiUschiae Hows. To the r. rises thj precipitous Rolhenfluh. A 
 certain spot (^2 M. j in this detile , marked by an inscription 
 on the rock , is named the Boseastein , where according to 
 tradition one of the barons of RothenUuh sle>v his brother. 
 
 Near (274 M.J Zweiliitschineu (22G1'J, a village on the 
 r. bank of the Liitschine {^Bdr^ li. 1, B. 1 fr., pension 4 fr.J, 
 the valley divides. To the 1. it ascends the course of the Black 
 Lutschine to Grindelwald (J^/-} M.) (view of the Wetterhorn in 
 the background) ; in a straight direction the White Lutschine is 
 followed to Lauterbrunnen (2^/^ M.). The valley of Lauterbinin- 
 nmi, which commences at the Hunnenfluh, a rock in the form 
 of a gigantic tower, is remarkable for its walls of calcareous rock, 
 rising precipitously on both sides, to a height of 1000 — 1500'. 
 It derives its name (^tauter Brunnen, i. e. 'nothing but springs') 
 from the numerous brooks and springs which descend from the 
 surrounding rocks. 
 
 Au excursiou may be made (.guide unnecessary) from Zweildtscliineu 
 to (1 hr.) Eisenfluh (SSU'i'j i the lirst ruad turning to the r. from the 
 Lauterbrunnen road rapidly ascentls the W. side of the mountain (after 
 3 p. m. shade). Refreshments at the house of the schoolmaster, near the 
 upper fountain in the village. Eisenlluh commands a magnificent view of 
 the Jungfrau, which is seen to still better advantage on the path from 
 Eisenlluh to Murren (c5 hrs., p. ii'ij. Near the end of the village, it turns 
 to the 1., leading to the Huttsbacii (•*|4 hr.), beyond which the only steep 
 ascent in the walk is encountered (the traveller from 3Iurren should, on 
 emerging from the forest, as soon as he perceives the bridge which crosses 
 the brook at the bottom of the valley , leave the direct path and descend 
 towards it); for ^\-> hr. the path presents no difficulty, and the walk well 
 repays the fatigue; the Jungfrau and its neighbours are seen to great ad- 
 vantage, especially on emerging from the forest, 25 min. from the inn, as 
 the Schwarze M.inch no longer intercepts the view. The path, generally 
 narrow, is, near the Sausbach, sometimes completely carried away by the 
 rains, in which case the traveller should cross the meadow above the pre- 
 cipice ; guide desirable. — Good walkers will accomplish the journey to 
 J/iirren in an afternoon, next day ascend the iichilthorn, return to sleep 
 at Murren, visit on the third day the Falls of tht Schmad/'i , and in the 
 evening descend to Lauterbrunnen — a charming three days' tour. 
 
 Lauterbrunnen (27.J0') {Steinhock , K. 2, B. IV2, S. 3, A. 
 ^/4 fr. ; *Uotel StaubbacJij unpretending), a picturesque, scattered 
 village, is situated on both banks of the Liitschine, in a rocky 
 valley ^/4 M. broad, v. here in July the sun does not make its 
 appearance before 7 a. m., and in winter not before noon. The 
 snowy mountain-group to the tS.E. is the Jungfrau, to the S.the 
 Breithorn. (Waterfall of the Triimlenbach , a beautiful evening 
 walk, see p. 113). Wood-wares good and cheap here. 
 
 Upwards of 20 brooks leap from the rocky heights in the 
 vicinity. The most important of these is the *Staubbacli ('dust- 
 brook'), '/a M. ;S. of the hotel. The brook, never of great volume, 
 and diminishing so much in summer as sometimes to disappoint 
 the expectant traveller, descends in an unbroken fall of 980' ^ 
 so small a body of water falling from so great a height is con- 
 verted, before it reaches the ground, into minute particles of
 
 Oberland. MURKEN. I'i). Routt. Hi 
 
 spray, which the breeze scatters into taiitastic and ever-varying 
 iorms. The morning is the niost favourable time to visit the 
 cascade , when the rays of the sun falling upon it create a suc- 
 cession of beautiful rainbows , which appear to rise and fall , as 
 the spray , like a transparent veil , is wafted to and fro by the 
 breeze. Best point of view from the meadow immediately in 
 front of the fall, to the 1. of a seat indicated by a Hag. 
 
 ytrcauis froiu the liigli, 
 Steep, rocky wall 
 The purest fount ; 
 In clouds of spray, 
 Like silver dust. 
 
 It veils the rock 
 
 In rainbow hues \ 
 
 And dancing down 
 
 With music soft, 
 
 Is lost in air. G (jet he. 
 
 f. Upper Valley of Lauteibrunnen. Miirren. Fall of the 
 Schmadribach. 
 
 Coinp. Map p. U8. 
 From Lauterhrunnen to Miirren '1^\\ hrs. , Trachsellauiueu 2 hrs. , to the 
 Schmadribach and back 2 hrs., Lauterhrunnen 2'|2 hrs. Horses see p. US. 
 
 A ilay can hardly be more agreeably employed than in making an 
 excursion to Miirren, and the Fall of the Schmadr i 1j ac h. It is a 
 good day's walk, and, if extended as far as the Upper Steinberg, some- 
 what fatiguing; in the latter case a guide (5 I'r.) may be engaged at Trach- 
 sellauinen. If it is only intended to visit Miirren, whicii should be the 
 principal object, the excursion from Lauterhrunnen, retarning by Stechel- 
 berg, is easily accomplished in G hrs. (guide unnecessary). The route from 
 Zweiliitschiuen to Eisentluh (p. IIU), Miirren, and Lauterhrunnen, requires 
 only 1 hr. more. To Murren, Gimmelwald, and Stechelberg a bridle-path, 
 thence to Lauterhrunnen (5 M.) carriage-road. 
 
 The view from Miirren being seen to the best advantage by evening 
 light, the traveller may prefer to proceed first to the Schmadribach, and 
 thence to Miirren, wliere (or at Gimmelwald) the night should be passed. 
 Between Gimmelwald and Trachsellauinen there is a shorter way than the 
 road by Stechelberg (see p. 112). The ascent from Lauterhrunnen to 
 Miirren may be performed on liorseback, but the descent by Gimmelwald, 
 especially the latter part, is excessively rugged and fatiguing. 
 
 At Lauterbrunnen, a few paces -S. of the hotel, the path to 
 .Miirren ('i^/4 hrs.) leaves the valley and ascends rapidly to the 
 1. by the side of the brook for 20 min. , then turns to the r., 
 ami immediately afterwards to the 1. in the direction of the 
 waterfall, below which it crosses to the r. bank. After liaving 
 rrossed two other brooks, it reaches the Pletschbacli or Slaubbach 
 (I74 hr. from Lauterhrunnen). 8oon afterwards the ascent 
 becomes easy ; tw branches of the Spiessbach are crossed , and 
 (1 hr. from the Staubbach) the wood is quitted. Here is suddenly 
 disclosed a magniticent **view of an ampliitheatre of mountains 
 and glaciers, the Eiger and the Miinch , the Jungfrau with its 
 dazzling t?ilberhorn, the rugged precipices of the Schwarze Miinch, 
 rising precipitously from the valley, the wall of the Ebene-Fluh, 
 its conical summit to the 1. and its mantle of spotless snow, the 
 Mittagshorn, the Grosshorn, the Breithorn, from which the Schma- 
 dribach Hows, the Tschingelhorn , and nearer, the Tschingelgrat 
 and the Gspaltenhorn ; 8 or 10 glaciers descend from these snowy 
 heights to the valleys below. The prospect is far more imposing
 
 112 Route -21). SCHMAI)RI1'>A('H FALL. Bernese 
 
 than from the Wcjigcni Alp. with the exception of the view of 
 the Junjjfrau, which from the Weiiffern Alp is unrivalled. 
 
 From this point the path traverses green pastures, and (25 min) 
 reaches the Alpine village of Miirren f5347') (^Silberhorn. R. 2, 
 B. l'/.,, D. 3, A. 3/4 fr.), whence the Wetterhorn is still visible 
 to the 1., and on the extreme r. the Furke (p. 113): a more 
 extensive view is obtained from the Almendhubel (1 hr. farther). 
 
 From the -Schilthorn (9728') (ascent with guide in 41,2 lirs. , partly 
 over snow and slate-detritus, hut free from danger), which rises to the W". 
 of Miirren, the Jungfrau, the queen of the Bernese Alps, may he surveyed 
 in her entire magnificence. An extensive prospect is also obtained of the 
 whole chain as far as the Bliimlisalp (or Fran), the Altels, many of the 
 moxintains of the Valais, the Rigi, the X. of Switzerland, etc. The traveller 
 is recommended to descend hy the imposing Sefinenthal, passing the 
 "■Briickt^, a charming point above Gimmehvald: a route longer hy I'Jj hr. 
 than the direct path, but far more interesting. 
 
 From Miirren the bridle-path descends to the 1.; 10 min. 
 bridge over the Murrenhach; in 20 min. to the 1. between two 
 chalets; 5 min. the hamlet of Gimmelwald (4535') (*Zum Schilt- 
 horn, also a pension); 25 min. a bridge over the Sefinlutschine, 
 in the valley, then a slight ascent; 5 min. precipitous path, 
 difficult in rainy weather. The 8efinliitschine here forms a beautiful 
 *cascade, whose spray is tinged with the hues of the rainbow in 
 the morning sun. 
 
 Some min. farther on, the path divides: to the 1. it descends 
 to Stechelberg fl'/o hr. from Miirren. and 5 M. from Lauter- 
 brunnen) ; to the r. (direction-post to the inn) to Trachsel- 
 lauinen and the falls of the Schmadribach (see below). In one 
 hour more the chalets of T r ac h sella uinen{m A i't.^i Hotel Schmadri- 
 fall, R. 2, B. l'/2, A. and L. ^/^fr.. well spoken of) are attained. 
 The path, now more difficult to trace, continues on the r. bank. 
 In 10 min. it passes a deserted silver-foundry, then skirts a 
 projecting mass of rocks to the r. , and ascends the Nadla; it 
 next passes the chalets {^o ^r.) of the Lower Steinberg, and 
 crosses the impetuous glacier-fed Schmadribach and Thalbach ; 
 ascending the pasture on the r. bank, it leads by a waterfall; the 
 rugged Holdri is next mounted, and in '/2 ^^- ^^^ chalet of 
 Legger is reached (1^4 hr. from Trachsellauinen). and the *Fall 
 of the Schmadribach is in full view. The water, emerging from 
 the glacier in a considerable volume, is hurled to a depth of 
 200', and. ascending in vapour, forms a magnificent arch. The 
 stream must be crossed higher up by the traveller who desires 
 to inspect the waterfall more closely . but this will hardly com- 
 pensate for the sacrifice of time. The loneliness of the surround- 
 ing scene, the imposing character of the cascade, and the magnifi- 
 cent panorama of mountains and glaciers, combine to produce a 
 profound impression. The azure ice of the TschingeL Glacier 
 rises perpendicularly in the immediate vicinity; beyond it the 
 grotesque Tschingelhurner (11,749').
 
 Oberland. FUUKE. 29. Route. 113 
 
 The prospect is still more extensive from the chalet of the 
 Upper Steinberg (5794'), which is seen high up to the r. on 
 the pastures (ascent of I'/'i hr. from Trachsellauinen). Coffee 
 and milk, and if necessary a bed of hay, may be had; charges 
 sometimes exorbitant. 
 
 From Steinberg to Gas tern and Kandersteg by the 
 Tschingel Glacier, a most interesting glacier-excursion, see p. 146. 
 
 From Trachsellauinen to Lauterbrunnen is a walk of 21/2 l^rs. 
 In 25 min. a bridge over the Lutschine is reached, which here 
 dashes wildly down its rocky bed ; 1/4 hr. the bridge of Stechel- 
 bery (3002'; path from Miirren see above), and the bottom 
 of the valley is attained. Near Matten (1/4 hr.) is seen to the 
 1. the Miirrenbacli, trickling down the face of the cliff. From the 
 (II/4 hr.) Dornige Brilcke a stony road leads to Lauterbrunnen, 
 which the pedestrian may avoid by taking the path to the r., 
 pursuing the same direction , and traversing green pastures ; 
 10 min. the waterfall of the Rosenbach, issuing from a fissure in 
 the rock; 5 min. from the path the *Cascade of" the Tri'imlenbach, 
 fed by the glaciers of the Jungfrau (p. 115), rushing impetuously 
 from a narrow chasm , and forming a cascade of great volume, 
 but inconsiderable fall (3 M. from Lauterbrunnen). The best 
 point of view is the bridge (1/2 fr.), which is reached by a path 
 on the r. bank. A few hours' leisure at Lauterbrunnen cannot 
 be better spent than in taking this walk. 
 
 From Lauterbrunnen by the Furke to Reichenbach in the 
 Kienthal, or again leaving the Kienthal, ascending by the Diinden- 
 grat to Kandersteg, by a path across the Sefinenthal, mentioned at 
 p. 146: from Lauterbrunnen to the Furke 5'|2 hrs., down to tlie valley 2 hrs., 
 to the Biindengrat S'la hrs., to the Oeschinenthal 2 hrs., Kandersteg fiji hr. ; 
 altogether a rugged walk of 15 — 16 hrs., the most fatiguing portion being 
 the passage from the valley over the Diindengrat to Kandersteg, only 
 practicable for experienced climbers. If need be, the night can be passed 
 in one of the chalets of the Kienthal. Good guide necessary, the three 
 brothers Lauenei\ Ulvich Litider, and Peier van Almen are recommended. 
 The whole route presents a series of the grandest views, especially at the 
 beginning, near Miirren. The Furke (8566') is a profound cleft between 
 the Great-Hvndshovn (9607') and the liiUdassen (10,463') i in ascending, the 
 pedestrian must keep to the 1. in order to arrive at the opening in the 
 rock. In descending from the Furke to the Kienthal (the dangerous path 
 to the 1., which leads to the Diindengrat over the Gamc/ii Glacier., must be 
 avoided) the Rliimlisalp (or Fran) appears in all its brilliant whitene.<!s. 
 The traveller, if fatigued, may now proceed to Reichenbach in 3 hrs. (p. 145) ; 
 or, after reposing in the chalets of the Diirrenbertj. may proceed (m his 
 route to Kandersteg. Descending into the valley of the Kienbach as far 
 as the Gamchi Glacier, where the brook has its source, and crossing the 
 brook, the route ascends a steep grassy slope, at the termination of vv-hich 
 fields of snow and ice must be traversed. The summit of the Diindengrat 
 ( Diinden/iorii, Witticc , Oeschiiiengrat, 9410'), opposite the snow-line of the 
 Bliimlisalp, commands a superb view of the latter mountain with its 
 rounded form of the purest white, and its imposing glacier; to the r. are 
 the Doldenhorn and numerous other peaks ; in the plain is the Lake of 
 Thun. The descent is now made to the glacier and the chalets of the 
 Oeschinen-Alp (6420'), and next, bv a path cut in the rock, to the Oe.^chinen- 
 See (5210'), and to Kandersteg (3839', see p. 146). 
 
 B^DEKEK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. ^
 
 114 Route 29. WENGERNALP. Bernese 
 
 From L a u t e r b r u n u e n by the W e 1 1 e r 1 u c k e and the Peters- 
 grat to the Lotschenthal, see p. 251 . 
 
 Froiu Lauterbrunneu by theLauinenthor to theEggisch- 
 horn, a difficult and dangerous expedition (19 hrs.), accomplished in 186U 
 by Prof. Tvndall and -Mr. Hawkins. The wild and desolate K o t h tii al is 
 traversed, and the vast ridge (12,415). connecting the Juugfrau uith the 
 Olet.«ner/)0/)i, crossed to the Great Aletsclifirn and the Eygiichhorn (p. 141). 
 
 ^, From Lauterbrunnen to Griudelwald. Weugernalp. 
 Juugfrau. 
 
 Com]). Map. p. 98. 
 
 Bridle-path over the Wengernalp li'ji hrs. ; Ironi Lauterbrunneu to the 
 Wengerualp 3 (descent 2), Little Scheideck ^,4 (descent 'jaj, Orindel- 
 wald 2'j.i hrs. (ascent '6^\-i\. Diligence from Interlaken to Grindelwald once 
 daily. Horses and carriages, see p. 93. The ascent may be made un 
 horseba.ck, either from Lauterbrunnen or Grindelwald. but in descending 
 it is advLsable to dismount at the rugged and stony declivity near Grindel- 
 wald, as well as at the last precipitous portion of the descent into the 
 valley of l>auterbrunnen. — Guide unnecessary. Chaise-a-porteurs at 
 Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. 
 
 Two routes lead to Grindelwald. The first, a road which 
 follows the valley of the White Liitschine as far as Zweiliit- 
 schineii , thence ascending the valley of the Black Liitschine 
 (distance about VI M., by carriage in 2'/.j hrs., seep. 98), will 
 be chosen by travellers who prefer the luxury of a carriage, to 
 the proximity of the Juugfrau and the bracing mountain air. 
 A good walker will, if time permits, prefer the other route by 
 a footpath over the WengernaLp and the LitUe Scheideck. It is 
 at first somewhat laborious, from the rapidity of the ascent, but 
 well repays the fatigue , and is one of the most attractive and 
 frequented paths in Switzerland. 
 
 Near the church of Lauterbrunnen, the Liitschine is crossed, 
 and the first wide path ascending to the r. followed [3 min. from 
 the bridge). After a somewhat steep ascent of 1 hr. a hamlet 
 belonging to the village of Wengen ( rustic innj is reached ; 
 beautiful view of the Gspalthorn, the Tschingelhorn, the Breithorn, 
 the Schwarze Monch, the Jtmgfrau, and the glacier and waterfall 
 of .Schmadri , as well as the valley of Lauterbrunnen. About 
 1/4 hr. beyond the inn , the path to the r. must be selected ; 
 it now becomes more level , ascending a gently sloping pasture, 
 to which the name *Wengernalp properly belongs (Refreshm.). 
 Wrestling match, see Introd. XV. From this point is seen the 
 valley of Lauterbrunnen far below , the Staubbach , reduced by 
 distance to a silver thread, its upper fall, and the windings 
 which it makes preparatory to its final leap. 
 
 The path now enters (I hr. from the inn of Wengen) a fir- 
 wood , in which it continues for about V4 hr. On emerging 
 from the wood by a gate, the broad track mtist be left, and a 
 steep path to the 1. ascended, again occasionally leading through 
 forest; in 35 min. (^from the broad track) a second gate is seen, 
 \vbere the path leads to the r.^ and in 10 min. more the *HOtei
 
 Obertand. JUNGFRAU. 29. Route. 115 
 
 de La Janyfiau (61 To' J is reached. (The pedestrian coming in 
 the opposite direction must take care to go through the gate, and 
 OH jio account descend by the enclosure.) Travellers coming 
 from Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald meet here, or at the Scheideck 
 {y. Ulij, and a halt is generally made between 10 and 12 o'clock. 
 Tourists of every tongue , guides, porters, and horses are often 
 mingled together in the utmost confusion , and severely tax the 
 energy of those who have to supply their many requirements. 
 The Uemshuyel (hill of the chamois') affords a tine survey of the 
 valley of Lauterbrunnen. 
 
 The '=Jungfrau (13,671'), covered with an eternal shroud 
 of snow , now appears in all her majesty. The two peaks , the 
 Silberhorn (^12,106') to the r., and the Schneehorn (^11,204') to the 
 1., tower above its immense fields of snow. Its proportions are 
 so gigantic, that the traveller is bewildered in his vain attempts 
 to estimate them; distance is annihilated by their vastness. The 
 summits and higher peaks are covered with snow of dazzling 
 whiteness ; the lower and less precipitous slopes also present a 
 boundless expanse of snow and glacier. The loftiest summit, which 
 is farther S., is not visible from this spot, or from Lauterbrunnen. 
 The base of the mountain, as far as it is seen, is precipitous. 
 
 Avalanches. These terrihle and yet magniticent phenomena are occa- 
 sioned by the aceumiUation of immense masses ot ice or snow on the 
 upper parts ot the mountains, whence, as the warmer season advances, 
 they slide oil" by their own weight with amazing velocity. The traveller 
 has now an opportunity of beholding the ire avalanche, or portions ol' 
 glacier becoming detached unter the inlliience of the summers sun. Seen 
 Irom a distance these enormous masses of ice, breaking into iragmeuis as 
 they fall, resemble rushing cataracts , and are accompanied by a noise 
 like thunder. They are most numerous shortly after noon, when the sun 
 exercises its greatest power. E.xcept that the awful stillness which gene- 
 rally pervades these desolate regions is interrupted by the echoing thunders 
 of the falling masses , there is nothing absolutely imposing in the spec- 
 tacle ; and after the imagination has been wrought up in anticipation 
 of the scene, something akin to disappointment is experienced when 
 it is fully realised. The traveller must, however, be reminded that 
 the apparently insiguilicant white cascade often consists of hundreds of 
 tons of ice, capable of sweeping away forests and whole villages, should 
 any unfortunately be encountered in their course; happily, however, they 
 fall in uninhabited districts, and are rarely fatal in their elfects. Two 
 other descriptions of avalanclie arc of a much more dangerous character 
 — the snow and the drift avalanche. Whole villages liave been over- 
 whelmed by the instantaneous fall of the former-, such a calamity befel 
 the village of Bueras in tlie Grisons in 174'J. The drift avalanche only 
 lakes place in winter after an unusually heavy fall of snow, large masses 
 of which become detached by the wind from lieights where they have ac- 
 cumulated; these increase in their progress to an enormous extent, and 
 are precipitated with overwhelming force into the valleys beneath. The 
 impetuous current of air which accompanies these snow torrents, as 
 they may be aptly called, is said to be of such violence as capable of 
 uprooting forest trees. 
 
 Since Aug., 1811, the Jungfrau has been frequently ascended (.in Ibtki 
 even by a lady). The iiilberhorn, once deemed inaccessible, was as- 
 cended "for the' lirst lime, Aug. 4th. 1863, by Kd. c. Felleiiberi/ and the 
 J'^ditor, accompanied by the guides P. Michel, U. Baumann, and I'. Inabnit 
 of OiJndelwald. The party started ii\>ui the Belkvuc %'Vl i a. m., tiuverdo4 
 
 !5*
 
 116 Route 29. LITTLE SCHEIDECK. Bernese 
 
 the entire Eiger and Monch Glaciers, ascended the Schneehorn to the r., 
 and crossing the N. slope of the Jnngfrau, attained the summit of the 
 Silberhorn at 4. 30 p. m. The following night was passed on the preci- 
 pitous E. icy slope of the Schneehorn . not one of the party daring to 
 close an eye. (Comp. Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpenclubs, 1864). 
 
 The Xauberhom (8120'), a cone rising from the ridge which extends 
 to the N. of the Scheideck, may be reached thence in 1 hr. ; from the 
 Wengernalp in li)2hr. (descent 1 hr.). This ascent is stronglj' recommended 
 to those who have not visited the Faulhorn. View extensive and imposing. 
 Coming from Grindelwald, it is only a digression of lVi2 hr. to proceed 
 from the Scheideck to the Hotel Jungfrau over the Lauberhorn. Guide 
 not absolutely necessary. — The Tschngcjen (BilCy), which rises to the N. 
 of the Lauberhorn, commands a more extensive, but less picturesque view. 
 Ascent more fatiguing. — If the traveller be disposed to extend his walk, 
 he may proceed from the Lauberhorn along the E. slope of the Tschuggen 
 to iha' Mdnnlichen, the N. summit of this ridge (comp. p. 118). In this 
 case the walk from Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald (by the Wengernalp, 
 Lauberhorn, and Mannliclun) will occupy 10 — lO'f-i hrs. 
 
 The Little-Scheideck (Lauterbrunnen-Sclieideck, or Wengern- 
 Scheideck, 6788'; Hotel Bellevue, R. 21/0, B. IV2, S. 2, A. 3/^ 
 fr. ; wood -carver Jean Zurfluh)^ the culminating point of the 
 pass , is attained after a moderate ascent of 3/4 hr. from the 
 Hotel Jungfrau. A striking view is obtained from the top 
 of this abrupt ridge over the entire valley of Grindelwald 
 from the Lake of Brienz (to the extreme 1. is the flattened 
 cone of the Faulhorn with its inn), and on the S. the giants 
 of the Oberland, the Monch (13,438'), Eiger (13,045'), and 
 farther off the Schreckhorn (13,394'). Mr. Harrington, a young 
 Irishman, was the first to scale the Eiger, in 1858, and the 
 hazardous ascent of the Monch was accomplished for the first 
 time by Dr. Porges of Vienna in 1861. The first ascent of 
 the highest (central) point of the Schreckhorn (Gross-Schreck- 
 horn) was made by Mr. Leslie Stephen, Aug. 16th, 1861; 
 its S. peak (Gross- Lauteraarhorn) , lower by 120' than the N., 
 in 1842 by three Swiss gentlemen. The Finster-Aarhorn(iA,02Q''), 
 the highest mountain of the Bernese Alps, is not visible. In the 
 extreme distance, to the E., rise the Sustenhorner. The glaciers 
 which surround these mountains and fill all the hollows, extend 
 without interruption from the Jungfrau to the Grimsel, and from 
 Grindelwald to Brieg in the Valais. They cover an area of 360 
 sq. M. (the sixth part of all the glaciers of the Alps), and form the 
 grandest uninterrupted chain which exists in these mountains. 
 This 'Central Finster-Aarhorn Mass', as it is termed by geologists, 
 is the most important in Switzerland, and is the most prominent 
 feature on the relief maps. 
 
 The path to Grindelwald is bleak, but not uninteresting: 
 fragments of rocks piled one on another afford grim evidence of 
 former disasters and avalanches; pasture-land is rare. At the 
 chalets of (I/4 hr.) Bustigeln (6216') refreshments may be pro- 
 cured. Then (1 hr.) Alpigeln (5170'), with the new Hotel et 
 Pension des Alpes (whey cure). As the traveller advances, as- 
 saults are made upon his purse in rapid succession; echoes are
 
 Oberland. GRINDELWALD. 29. Route. 117 
 
 awakened by cannons and Alpine horns , and 'Trinkgeld' is de- 
 manded by individuals pretending to repair the path. — A forest 
 is then traversed for a short distance. About half-way between 
 the chalet of Alpigelu and Grindelwald (1 hr. from the formerj, 
 the bridle-path, which pursues a straight direction and enters a 
 hollow, should be quitted, and the path to the 1. taken, leading 
 (in 20 min.J by enclosed pastures and scattered cottages to the 
 bridge over the Liitschme; the road then gradually ascends to 
 Grindelwald in '^ hr. more. (Travellers proceeding from Grin- 
 delwald to the Wengernalp should ascend to the r. at the bridge. ) 
 
 The Footpath Injiu the Little Scheideck to Grindelwald is pleiusautcr 
 than the bridle-path just described. It skirts the 1. bank of the IVengis- 
 thulhach., commanding a series of picturesque views; 1 br. through pine- 
 I'orest. (tiiide desirable. 
 
 Grindelwald (3773'). Adler (R. 3, A. 1 fr.); HOtel Kiger, 
 opposite the lower glacier, D. or S. 4 fr. •, Bar; =Hotel du Glacier, 
 at the \V. end of the village, R. 2, B. I'j-j, A. 1 fr. ; =P e n s i o n S c h o n e g g, 
 small, with baths. — The Guides of Grindelwald enjoy a high repu- 
 tation. The Editor can recommend from personal experience : CUr. Almei\ 
 Pet. and Christen Michel., Pet. Indbnit, Joh. Baumaim, and Pet. Dohren. — 
 Pet. Egger., Ulrich Kan/inann, Pet. Rubi, Pet. Baumann, and Chr. Deutxch- 
 inann, are also well spoken of. Any of these may safely be engaged for the 
 most difficult glacier-expeditions. — Guide to the glacier (unnecessary) 2 fr. ; 
 chair 6 fr. — Carriages and Horses., see p. 98. 
 
 The village (3135 inhab.), with its scattered houses of wood, 
 occupying a considerable space iji the valley, affords excellent 
 head-quarters to mountaineers. The proximity of the two glaciers 
 tends to render the climate bleak; but cherries, from which 
 excellent Kirschwasser is produced, and other kinds of fruit, 
 thrive. The inhabitants are chiefly herdsmen, and bOO head oi 
 cattle subsist on the pastures of the valley, which is 1*2 M. long 
 and 4 M. wide. 
 
 The chief attractions of Grindelwald are its two Glaciers 
 (see Iiitrod. XIV), which descend far into the valley, and are 
 extremely easy of access; they are, however, inferior in grandeur 
 to the glacier of the Rhone and many others in Switzerland, 
 especially as they have considerably decreased of late years. 
 Three gigantic mountains bound the valley on the S.E., the Eiger 
 (13,040' ), the Metlenbery (Mittelberg, 10.443'j which forms the 
 base of the Schreckhorn, and the Wetteriiorn (12. 149') at the 
 upper end of the valley. The two glaciers lie between these 
 three mountains and form the source of the Black LuUchlne. The 
 traveller whose time is limited had better visit the upper glacier 
 only (nearer than the other to the bridle-path to .VIeiringen), the 
 crevasses of which are the most beautiful. 
 
 The Upper Glacier (3652' at the base), 1 hr. S.E. from Grin- 
 delwald, 10 min. to the r. of the lower bridle-path to the Great 
 Scheideck (which is qtiitted at the fourth bridge, but not by the 
 small footpath immediately above it), is the more remarkable; 
 the ice is purer than that of the lower glacier, and the openings 
 at its base more considerable, especially on the E. side ('/-j fr.
 
 118 Route 29. GRINDELWALD. Bernese 
 
 exacted for the repair of the patli ; small rostaiiranty The 
 beautiful clearness of the ice is best seen in the grotto artifi- 
 cially hewn in the glacier. 
 
 The Lower Glacier fSSlT'. at the base), 40 min. S. of Grindel- 
 wakl, sometimes termed the Little Glacier, is four times larger 
 than the Upper; the higher part is known as the Grindelmalder 
 Vief<cher Glacier fnot to be confounded with the Glacier of Viesch 
 in the Valais). On account of the moraines thrust before the 
 glacier fcomp. Introd. XIV"). the traveller sees but little from 
 this point; he is therefore recommended to visit the Mer de 
 Glace (Eismeer, 'sea of ice'"), a name given, as at Chamouny 
 (p. 219), to the large upper basin in which the glacier is formed 
 before it descends into the valley. The footpath on the left 
 slope is well kept, and presents neither difficulty nor danger. 
 In 2 hrs. fl'/o of which may be accomplished on horseback) the 
 chalet on the Bcirenegr; is attained (refreshments, and mattresses), 
 whence a flight of steps descends to the glacier (V2 fr.). A re- 
 markable view is here obtained of the minarets, or Tee-needles, 
 of the most fantastic forms. 
 
 A 'Glacier Expedition, vmattenderl with difficulty, is stronsjly 
 rPCoiTiinonded to the traveller who desires to become more familiar with 
 these icy regions. He should cross (1 hr.") the Mer de Glace to the chalet 
 of Zftsenberg, surrounded by pasture, and rudely constructed of stone, the 
 last human habitation met with amoncrst the piants of the EerneseAlps. All 
 traces of verdure soon entirely disappear: rm every side tower hup;e masses 
 of ice of the wildest and prrandest character, and the imposing summits 
 (if the Eiger, Schreckhorn. Viescherhorn. etc. enclose the view, forming a 
 panorama rivalling that of the ?Iontanvert in the valley of Chamouny. A 
 guide is necessary here, although the passage of the margin alone is at- 
 tended with any "difficulty. The return from the chalet to Grindelwald 
 occupies 3 hrs.' If the ekcursion is not extended beyond the middle of 
 the Mer de Glace (sufilciently far), the whole may easily be accomplished 
 in 5 hrs. — The ascent of the Zciseuberfihorn (1' 4 hr. from the Zasen- 
 berg) is recommended to experienced climbers; magnificent view of the 
 glacier-world from the summit. — From this point an interesting, though 
 S(miewhat fatiguing expedition may be made to the Eigevhohle, a grotto 
 visible from the Zasenberg. It serves as a resting-place for those who 
 cross the Monchsjoch to the Eggischhorn (see below), or are about to as- 
 cend the .Tungfrau. From the Zasenberg to the grotto 2 hrs., descent to 
 the Mer de Glace in 2 hrs. more. This excursion is unattended with 
 danger, but reqiiires a good guide. 
 
 The ' Mettenberg (10,443') is recommended to the notice of mountaineers 
 fascent laborious, 6 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.). The view of the Schreckhorn, 
 which rises in the immediate vicinity, is peculiarly imposing; from E. to 
 W. tower the Wetterhorner, Schreckhorn. Finsteraarhorn, Mcinch, and 
 Eiger; striking prospect of the Mer de Glace and the Valley of Grindel- 
 wald. 
 
 The M&nnlichen (7694'). the extreme X. spur of the Wengernalp, is 
 ascended without great fatigue in 4—5 hrs. (horse 15 fr.). After the Liit- 
 schine is crossed, the path diverges to the r. of the path to the Scheideck, 
 and gradually ascends through the district of Itranien. Owing to its iso- 
 lated position, an admirable panorama is enjoyed from the summit. It may 
 also be attained from the Scheideck in 3. or from Wengen (p. 114) in 
 21 '2 hrs. (guide desirable, path very steep and not easily traced). 20 min. 
 below the summit, on the ridge between the Mannlichen and Txchiig(ien. is 
 a small inn with a few beds. Guide from Grindelwald unnecessary for the 
 usual route, but agreeable if for the descent to Grindelwald the picturesque
 
 Oherlmvl. FAl'LHOHN. 'JU. Route. Jl*.) 
 
 pHtli through the wnod on lh«- 1. bank of the VVcnKisthalhach be selccte«l 
 (comp. p. 116). 
 
 To the Oriinsel Hospice fp. 134) a Rrand and most interesting 
 pass Icadu in 15 hrs. (10 hrs. on snow and ice, very fatiguing; guide 
 30 fr.), past the Schreokhorn, r)ver the 'Strahlegg (1 1 .060'). the ridge which 
 extends from the r.ross-Lanteraarhorn (p. 116) to Hio I"insteraarhr)rn : then 
 a descent over the Strahlefrg, Finsternar. and I'nter-Aar glaciers. The 
 night is passed at the Iidreneg(j (see above). Two guides desirable. 
 
 The Lauteraarjoch (10.338') is another magnificent, but still more 
 difficult pass. The night must be passed in the Glerkstein (p. 122); 
 then an ascent of 6 hrs. on ice to the culminating point; descent pre- 
 cipitous and difficult; finally across the Lauteraar-Glacier to the (5 hrs.) 
 DoU/itss- Pavilion, and (3 hrs!) Grimsel. Two good guides indispensable 
 (comp. p. 117). 
 
 Passes from CJrindelwald lo the Eggischhorn (p. 141), all 
 for thoroughly experienced mountaineers only, accompanied by trustworthy 
 guides. The " Jungfrau-Joch (11. 680'). between the .Tungfrau and Monch, 
 traversed for the first time in 1862, from tlie Wengernalp to the Eggisch- 
 horn in 16'f..' hrs., a difficult but extremely interesting expedition. — 
 The Miinchs-Joch (12,096'). between the Monch and Vieschergrat. com- 
 paratively the easiest and shortest of these passes, 15 hrs. from Grindel- 
 wald to the inn. The route is across the Lower Grindelwald Glacier and 
 the Grindelwalder Viescher Glacier to the culminating point, then a de- 
 scent between the Jlonch and Trugberg to the Aletsch Glacier and Eggisch- 
 horn. The night is spent in the Zrifeiibetr/ Chalet or the Fi'jer/iohle (see 
 p. 118). Those who come from the Eggischhorn sleep at the Faulberg, or 
 in very favourable weather at the Trvgberg. — The Eigerjoch (11.873'), 
 between the Eiger and Monch, 22 hrs. from the Wengernalp to the Eg- 
 gisclihorn, extremely difficult and hazardous. — The Viescherjoch (1 1,700'), 
 between the Kleine Viescherhorn and Agassizhorn, 22 hrs. from Grindel- 
 wald to the Eggischhorn, is very rarely traversed, being difficult and 
 deficient in interest. 
 
 h. The Faulhorn. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. 98. 
 From Grindelwald to the Faulhorn i^', (descent 3) hrs. ; from the Faul- 
 horn to the Scheideck 3 (ascent 4) hrs. ; from the Scheideck to the Baths 
 of Rosenlaui \'^\\ (ascent 2^\2) hrs.: fi-om the Scheideck to Grindelwald 
 2 (ascent 3) hrs. — Guide unnecessary for pedestrians accustomed to 
 the mountains; at Grindelwald as much as 8 fr. is demanded, but 5 fr. 
 is an ample remuneration. C h a i r- car ri er s 6 fr. each; if they pass the 
 night on the top, 12 fr. Three are generallv sufficient. Horses see 
 p. 98. Inn on the summit. Bed 3—4 fr., D. or S. 4. B. 2, A. 1, L. 1 fr. 
 If ladies are of the party, beds should be ordered previously. A single 
 traveller is often required to share his room with anotlier. 
 
 The *Faulhorn( 8803'; Rigi 5905'; Niesen77G3'l, rising between 
 the Lake of Brienz and the valley of Grindelwald, composed of 
 black, friable, calcareous schist ffaul = 'rotten', whence probably 
 its name), is a very favourite point of view, as it commands a 
 fine survey of the giants of the Bernese Oberland (see pano- 
 rama). The Lake of Brien/. . with its surrounding mountains, 
 from the Augstmatthorn to the Rothhorn , lies fully revealed ; a 
 portion of the T.,ake of Thun , with the Niesen and Stockhorn, 
 is also visible: farther off. parts of the lakes of Lucerne and 
 Zug, with Pilatus and the Rigi ; the lakes of Morat and Neu- 
 chatel may also be distinguished. On the other hand the pro- 
 spect does not, like that from the Rigi, comprise the lower moun- 
 tains of N. Switzerland , which add so much grace and beauty
 
 120 Route 29. FAULHORN. Bernese 
 
 to the scene. The atmospheric phenomenon mentioned at p. 65 
 is sometimes witnessed here also. 
 
 The Path from Grindelwald to the Faulhorn traverses for 3/^ 
 hr. enclosed meadows, over which detached houses are scattered. 
 The ascent commences at the Bear Hotel (p. 117): after 5 min., 
 to the r. ; 10 min., at a cross-way, straight on; 5 min., to the r. ; 
 2 min., to the 1. past a cottage, after which the path generally 
 pursues an E. direction. The footpath soon unites with tlie 
 bridle-path ; 7-2 ^^- ^ ^^^^ i ^"^ ^^^n the forest is entered ; on 
 emerging (10 min.), a steep ascent, at the top of which the 
 footpath turns to the 1. (the bridle-path to the r.); 1/4 hr., the 
 Ertschfeld meadow , a large enclosed pasture with some chalets, 
 near the middle of which the path enters the wood to the 1. ; 
 1/4 hr., straight on, and not to the 1. ; 20 min., the path divides 
 (those who are descending here diverge to the 1.); soon after, 
 a gate; 74 ^'^^ I^ossalp (Inn Alpenrose, new), magnificent view; 
 this point is almost half-way, the other half is less fatiguing. In 
 20 min. a waterfall of the Miihlibach is reached, and near it, the 
 chalets of the Bachaip (5049'), where cheeses weighing 150 lbs. 
 are manufactured. The only good drinking-water to be met with 
 during the ascent issues abundantly from the rock, 10 min. 
 further. Then 3/4 hr. of moderate ascent as far as the Lake of 
 Bachaip, situated in a rocky basin, bounded on the 1. by tlie 
 Ruthihorn (9052'), in front by the Simelihorn (9029'), to the r. 
 by the RitzligrdtU. (Near the stone hut the path diverges to 
 the 1. for travellers descending to the Scheideck , see below.) 
 The Faulhorn is now in view; and the path ascends rapidly for 
 nearly 1 hr. over slate and friable calcareous rock (the path 
 is indicated by posts, which are useful in foggy or snowy weather) ; 
 another stone hut is then passed , the grassy slopes at the foot 
 of the Faulhorn traversed, and in 74 hr. more the summit is 
 attained; the inn (p. 119) is situated on the S. side, about 30' 
 below the highest ridge. 
 
 Another path leads from Grindelwald to the Faulhorn by the Busmlp, 
 recommended to those intending to return to Grindelwald. Guide necessary, 
 as the mute is less frequented. Admirable view from the 'Bvirg\ which 
 of itself merits a visit from Grindelwald (2^2 hrs.). 
 
 The Path from the Faulhorn to the Scheideck quits the Grin- 
 delwald path, and turns to the 1. near the above-mentioned hut 
 (■74 hr.) by the lake of Bachaip, winds along the stony slopes 
 of the Ritzliyrdtli , where the shrill cry of the marmot is some- 
 times heard , and keeps the same elevation for some distance ; 
 72 hr. , a gate separating the Bachaip from the Widderfeldalp ; 
 5 min. farther, to the 1., not by the bed of the rivulet, which 
 resembles a path; 10 min. a ridge, commanding a magniticent 
 view of the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, Viescher- 
 horner, with their glacier, theEiger, and the valley of Grindelwald ; 
 8 min., to the 1. and across the brook; 7 min., a descent to the
 
 l.6r.Mbnch JTiPrt^rihoni 
 
 8,00i' Sclnvalinern 
 
 l<>" .UrtKchho DiablereU 852 f 
 
 .,J9 
 
 Mijropnbfi-ghurn 
 
 /i-^ 
 
 D .tnnstadt, Ed .Wajfner.
 
 'i'anotama jtom tlJc .t'autii 
 
 r
 
 Oherland. WETTERHORN. ^9. Route. VA 
 
 1. over black, crnnibling slate; then a gate, where the Grindelalp 
 commences. The path ceases in many places, but is shortly re- 
 gained ; the direction of the Wetterhorn must be kept; 1/4 ^^-^ 
 a small brook is crossed, and the path is again clearly defined; 
 5 min., a brook; 10 rain., a natural bridge over the Ber^ei6«cft ; 
 5 min., the Chalets of Grindeln with fountain; 1/4 ^r., a gate; 
 then to the r. by the enclosure, without crossing it, through the 
 next gate (12 min.) and towards the top of a hill; 8 min., 
 Scheideck Inn. — (Those who ascend hence must, at the bridge 
 over the Benjelbach, be careful to avoid the turning to the 1.; 
 further on, over the pastures where the pathway is lost, the 1. 
 must again be avoided, and a direction parallel with a loiig en- 
 closure to the 1. pursued , in the direction of the rising ground 
 at the foot of w^hich the path is regained.) 
 
 The Path from Interlaken to the Faulhorn (comp. p. 108) leads 
 by the (4 hrs.) Schynige Platte (p. 107); thence by a new bridle- 
 path across the Iselten Alp, and along the S. slopes of the 
 Laucherhorn to the (I hr.) ridge which bounds the Sdgisthat on 
 the 8. ; admirable view of the Oberland. Then a slight descent 
 to the (3/4 hr.) Siiyisthal-See, with its chalet. The traveller skirts 
 the N. and N.E. sides of the lake, and ascends the barren slope of 
 the Schwabhorn, the ridge of which separates the lake from the 
 Faulhorn. The summit of the latter is reached in 2 hrs. from 
 the Sagisthal-See, and is 2670 ft. above it. 
 
 Path from the Giessbach to the Faulhorn, 7—8 hrs. (p. 128); 
 descent (5 — 6 hrs.) disagreeable and not recommended. 
 
 The view from the Faulhorn over the chain of the High Alps, the 
 green meadows of the valley of Grindelwald, and the two glaciers, is par- 
 tially intercepted by the neighbouring group of the* Simelihorn (8928') and 
 the Rolldhorn (9U52'), which, rising between the Finsteraarhf>rn and the 
 Schreckhorn, contribute at the same time considerably to enhance the ellect. 
 The Rothihorn , on account of its isolated pcjsition, commands a much 
 finer view of the mountains of Grindelwald than the Faulhorn ; the ascent 
 is most conveniently undertaken on the return-route from the Faulhorn 
 to Grindelwald, by diverging to the r. at the Bachalpsee (p. 120) and after- 
 wards descending to the Bachalp. 
 
 The view is still grander and more extensive from the top of the- 
 Schwarzhorn (95U7'), which, with the Wildgevst (9475'). intercepts the view 
 fnini the Faulhorn on the E. side (the lakes of Lungern, Sarnen, Alpnach, 
 Kiisnacht, and Zug are visible hence, all situated in the same line). The 
 ascent of the Schwarzhorn is best made from the Great Scheideck by the 
 Grindelalp (see above) in 3 hrs. (from Grindelwald 6 hrs., from llosenlaui 
 5'|-.' hrs.) guide necessary. Active mountaineers may descend to the little 
 blue glacier ('■Blaue Gle(scher'), and by the fJreiienboden Alp (2 hrs.) to the 
 Baths of Rosenlani (l'J2 hr.) (p. 123). 
 
 i. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. The Rosenlaui Glacier. 
 
 Falls of the Reichenbach. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. 98. 
 
 63|4 hrs. : from Grindelwald to the 8cheideck 3 (descent 2) hrs., from 
 
 the Scheideck to Kosenlaui 13J4 (ascent 2'|.;) hrs., from Koseulaui to 
 
 Meiringen 2 (ascent 3) hrs., a good day's walk if '!•.; hr. he spent at the 
 
 Upper <irindehvald Glacier, 1 lir. at th."- Hoscnlaui (Uacier, and '|-.' hr. at
 
 122 Route -29. (ilJEAT SCIIEIDKCK. Bernese 
 
 tlip F'alls of the Reichenbacli. Horses, see p. 98: the entire roiite may 
 be performed on horseback, but the Reichenbach Falls must be visited 
 on foot. 
 
 The path ascends gradually, traversing rich pastures, and 
 passing the Upper Glacier of Grindehvald fp. 117). In the fore- 
 ground towers the magnificent *"Wetterhorn f 12, 149'), or Ha sli- 
 Jungfrau , as it is termed by the natives, rising precipitously 
 from the Scheideck. 
 
 The W. peak of the Wetterhorn was ascended for the first time in 
 I8i4, the E. peak (Rosenfiorn) in the same year, the Mittelhorn in the fol- 
 lowing year. The ascent has since been frequently made fin 1863 by the 
 Editor).' The nipht before the ascent is spent in the Gleck-ffciv, a grotto 
 at the W. base of the Wetterhorn. 
 
 In spring, avalanches descend from the Wetterhorn in four 
 different directions; the snow frequently extends to the path, 
 and does not entirely melt during the whole summer. The Al- 
 pine horn (an instrument 6 — 8 feet in length, of bark or wood) 
 is generally sounded from the opposite slope as travellers are 
 passing. Its simple notes, re-echoed a few seconds later from 
 the precipices of the Wetterhorn. produce a not unpleasing effect. 
 
 The Great or Hasli - Scheideck f6910') . also termed the 
 Esehriirken. or Ass's Back, a ridge of rock, 3 M. long and only 
 a few paces wide, commands a striking view towards the W. 
 The inn (R. 2. S. 3 fr. ; horse to the Faulhorn 8 fr.. an ascent 
 of 4 hrs.) is indifferent. The lovely valley of Grindelwald, 
 bounded to the S. W. by the pastures and woods of the Little 
 Scheideck, forms a picturesque contrast to the bleak and barren 
 precipices of the Wetterhorn, which tower above the spectator 
 to a giddy height. The eye next rests on the rounded summit 
 of the Little Schreckhorn , the Mettenberg , the sharp ridge of 
 the Eiger, and finally the S.E. snowy precipice of the Monch. 
 To the N.W. the Mannlichen (p. 118). High up on the r. appears 
 the Schviarzrvald- Glacier, between the Wetterhorn and Wellborn . 
 
 Travellers from Rosenlaui who do not wish to ascend the Faulhorn 
 are recommended here to make a short digression (1 hr.), by following 
 the path to the Faulhorn (p. 120). at least as far as f3)4 hr.) the Grindel- 
 alp (p. 121), an almost level walk; from this point a fine view of the 
 mountains is obtained, especially of the Schreckhorn, the Upper Grindel- 
 wald Glacier, and the Vieschergrat. From the Grindelalp the direct de- 
 scent (beyond the fountain the Faulhorn-path is followed for 5 min. more, 
 then to r.) to Grindelwald is not longer than from the Scheideck. 
 
 Immediately below the Scheideck the path turns to the 1. 
 A wood is soon entered, the path skirting the base of the rocky 
 precipices. This part of the route is attractive and varied, pass- 
 ing several groups of chalets (near those of Sclncarzivald is a 
 new inn), and frequently crossing the Gemsbach and Reichenbach, 
 the latter finally by a broad bridge in a pine-clad valley, IV2 ^r. 
 from the Scheideck. The track divides here. One path (the 
 preferable one , affording pleasant views of the upper Rosenlaui 
 Glacier and the mountains surrounding it) continues to follow 
 the 1. bank of the Reichenbach, and leads in 1 hr. to the saw-
 
 Oherlanrl. KOSKNLAUI. i^9. Route. V2'^ 
 
 tuill (see below); the other (''/4 In*, loiiper) enters the forest to tlie r. 
 fon the r. bank of the Reirhenbarh . which forms a pirtnresqiie 
 fall near Rosenlaui , best seen from tlie new bridge behind the 
 baths) and leadf? in 25 min. to the Baths of Rosenlaui (4397') 
 (*Jnn, R. 2. L. 1, B. V/.y, '^- ^'/-i' A. ^/^ fr. Portfolios of Alpine 
 plants 4—30 fr. ; wood-carvings of Jean Zurfliili). 
 
 Before the Baths are reached, where the road emerges from the 
 forest, a footpath to tlie r. leads to the Rosenlaui Glacier f5029'), 
 imbedded between the Wellhorn flO.486') and the EngelJiorner, 
 so much of which, however, has melted of late years, that it 
 does not now merit a visit. The ice of this glacier is remark- 
 able for its purity, owing to the indestructible nature of the 
 surrounding rock fblack limestone). The dirty aspect of the 
 Grindelwald and other glaciers is due to the detritus of brittle 
 and friable formations. 
 
 The patli to Meiringen now follows the course of the Reirhen- 
 barh, which rises on the E. slope of the Faulhorn chain. It runs 
 at first through underwood , and then traverses an expanse of 
 fresh green pasture-land (the first bridge should not be crossed), 
 enclosed by forest, and enlivened by chalets and herds of cattle, 
 a favourite resort of painters. The bold peaks of the Engel- 
 horncr. in front the Wellhorn. with the snow-clad pyramid of the 
 Wetterhorn towering above it. together form a background of 
 mountain grandeur, which, combined with the lovely scenery at 
 its base , presents a picture unsurpassed in any part of Switzer- 
 land. These beauties strike the traveller most when proceeding 
 from Meiringen to Rosenlaui. 
 
 The Reirhenharh is crossed for the last time by a bridge, at 
 the end of the above mentioned pastures. 2o min. from the Baths, 
 and the path now remains on the r. bank (1/4 hr. a saw-mill 
 and small inn). The descent becomes steep. A distant view is 
 soon obtained of the valley of Hasli or Meiringen , bounded by 
 the mountains which surround the Briinig and Susten. At a gate, 
 l'/4 hr. from Rosenlaui. tlie traveller is generally met by a troop 
 of urchins who invite him to visit the celebrated * Falls of the 
 Eeichenbach. The path diverges to the 1. across a meadow, in 
 which steps have been cut, leading to a hut. the best point for 
 seeing the Upper Fall; on all other sides the view is shut out 
 by wooden partitions. The hut (refreshments) affords shelter 
 from the spray of the fall f'/.i fr.). A trifle must also be paid 
 for permission to use the above-mentioned path. Below the 
 upper fall a footpath diverges to the 1. from the bridle-path, 
 leading to the Middle Fall ( Kesselfall) , over which another hut 
 (25 c.) keeps guard. The conversion of this beautiful work of 
 nature into a peep-show is somewhat trying to the temper of the 
 traveller. At the foot of the mountain are the Hotel Reirhenbarh 
 (high charges) and the Hotel des Alpes, whence a good path leads
 
 124 Route 29. MEIRINGEN. Bernese 
 
 (1/4 hr.) to a bridge , from which a view is obtained of the 
 * Lower Falls (illumination daily from July 1st). 
 
 [The falls are seen to the best advantage when this route is 
 undertaken in the reverse direction (from Meiringen to the 
 upper fall ^/^ hr.) ; as Rosenlaui is approached, the Wetterhorn 
 and the Wellhorn form a strikingly beautiful background. The 
 patli which crosses the bridge near the second fall to the 1. bank 
 should be avoided, although it has the appearance of being more 
 frequented; the r. bank of the Reichenbach should not be quitted. 
 The great reputation which these falls enjoy may sometimes 
 occasion disappointment, when the expectation has been pitched 
 too high.] 
 
 Travellers to the Grimsel, who do not intend to visit the Falls of 
 the Reichenbach and Meiringen, save nearlj' an hour by keeping to the 
 bridle-path instead of taking the footpath to the falls through the gate 
 above-mentioned, 10 min. beyond which a rugged footpath diverges from 
 the bridle-path to the r.. leading to the village of Geisholz (25 min.) hidden 
 among fruit-trees ; here the pastures are ascended, and the Kivchet (p. 132) 
 traversed to (Vl? br.) Iin-Grund, or Hasli-Grutid, and (10 min.) Im-Hof 
 (p. 132), which with the other hamlets of the vicinity are collectively 
 termed Innertkirchen. 
 
 Meiringen (2224') (Krone [Post], R. 2, B. li|2, D. or S. excl. 
 W. 3, A. iJ2 fr. ; *Sauvage, similar charges; ''Bar near the church, 
 unpretending; Hotel et Pension du Reichenbach. — English 
 Church. Guides: Melchior and Jac. Anderegg, Kasp. and Jac. Blatter, 
 Joh. Tannler, etc. — Horses, etc. see p. 93), with 2787 inhab. 
 (25 Rom. Cath.), the chief village of the Ilasll-Thal, is situated on 
 the r. bank of the Aare^ in a valley 3 M. in width, surrounded 
 by wooded mountains, and overshadowed by snowy peaks. Three 
 brooks (Alphachj descend from the Hasliberg into the valley in 
 the rear of the village, forming considerable waterfalls. They often 
 overflow their banks, and cover the whole district with fragments 
 of rock, mud, and other deposit, brought down from the Hasli- 
 berg , the slopes of which are composed of loose , calcareous 
 stones. An event of this kind destroyed the greater part of the 
 village in 1762; in the church, stones and mud were heaped 
 up to a height of 18', as is indicated by a black line on the 
 wall. The construction of a broad canal, descending to the Aare, 
 now renders the recurrence of such a catastrophe improbable. 
 
 The Hasli-Thal (also called HasU im Weissland) is divided by the Kirchet 
 (p. 132) into the Unter- and Ober-Hasli. The inhabitants usually possess 
 a slight, but strong and active frame (Wrestling-matches see Introd._ XV), 
 and are remarkable for their picturesque costume and pure dialect. 
 According to tradition they descend from the inhabitants of Sweden or 
 Friesland, an idea supported by the opinions of modern Swedish savants, 
 recorded in a book kept at Meiringen. 
 
 Six different Alpine routes converge at Meiringen : the carriage- 
 road to Brienz (see below) ; the high - road to Lucerne by the 
 Briinig (R. 25); to Engelberg by the Jochpass (R. 30); by the 
 Susten to Wasen on the St. Gotthard route (R. 31); to the 
 Grimsel (R. 32); over the Great Scheideck to Grindetwald (p. 117).
 
 Oberland. 
 
 BUIENZ. 2iJ. Route. 125 
 
 The magniticent fall of the Aare at the Handeck (p. 133) is 
 o'/o hrs. walk from Meiringen. 
 
 k. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Rothhorn. Lake of Brienz. 
 
 Comp. Maj>, p. &S. 
 
 From Meiringen to Brienz 9 M. ; diligence twice daily in li|4 hr., 
 fare 1 fr. 80 c. ; one- horse carr. 7 fr. ; to Interlaken 16 (by the carriage- 
 road on the N. bank of the lake, see p. 127), two-horse 30 fr. From 
 Brienz to (the Giessbach and) Interlaken Steamboat (seep. 103) 3 times 
 dailv in 1 br., 1st cl. 2 fr., 2nd cl. 1 fr. Luggage additional, 50 c. for 
 each box. On the arrival of the steamboat at Interlaken, a difficulty 
 sometimes occurs in obtaining a conveyance to Keuhaus (fare 1 fr.), 
 as tlie drivers prefer to wait at Neuhaus for the steamer which arrives 
 from Thun at the same hour, and usually brings a larger number of 
 passengers. 
 
 Beyond Meiringen the road crosses to the 1. bank of the Aare, 
 traversing meadow-land; several cascades leap from the precipice 
 on the 1. , among others the beautiful fall of the Oltschibach. 
 Below (51/4 M.) Brienzwyler (p. 91) the road regains the r. bank 
 of the Aare by a new iron bridge , at the junction of the new 
 Briinig road. 
 
 Along the banks of the Lake of Brienz, which now becomes 
 visible to the W., are deposited large accumulations of marl and 
 detritus , which cover the once fertile soil. In 1797 a mud- 
 stream (comp. p. 62) destroyed a considerable portion of the 
 villages of Schwanden and Hofstetten, and in 1824 a landslip 
 devastated an area of 30 acres. The ^Pension Bellevue (with 
 pleasant grounds ; lake-baths) now stands on the spot (near the 
 influx of the Aare 11/4 M. from Brienz) formerly occupied by 
 the village of Kienholz. destroyed by a similar catastrophe in 1499. 
 
 Tracht {*Weisses Kreuz, at the steamboat-quay, and point of 
 departure of the Briinig diligence , Depen dance of the Giess- 
 bach Hotel , and recommended when accommodation cannot be 
 procured at the Giessbach), now almost a continuation of Brienz, is 
 celebrated for its wood -carvings, which are carried to a high 
 state of perfection, and employ 600 persons. From the Kdnzli, 
 Y4 hr. above the hotel, the view of the lake, the Faulhorn chain, 
 the Sustenhorn, the Triftenhorn, etc., is very striking. 
 
 Brienz (1982') (Bar, R. 2, B. IV2, D- incl. W. 3, A. 1 fr.), 
 a considerable village (2284 inhab.), consisting principally of 
 wooden houses, charmingly situated at the foot of the Brienzer 
 (rrat (7336'), a mountain-ridge separating the Lake of Brienz 
 from the P^ntlebuch. From the churchyard a tine view is obtained 
 of the lake, and part of the Giessbach, the Faulhorn in the back- 
 ground, the fall of the Oltschibach (see above) to the 1., and the 
 fall of the Miihlibach (1600'. in summer often dry) in the rear. 
 Brienz is also celebrated for its wood-carving, the chief repository 
 of which merits a visit. The cheese manufactured on the neigh- 
 bouring Alps is of superior quality. Steamboat see p. 98 and 
 above; rowing-boat p. 127.
 
 126 Route -29. LAKE OF BKIENZ. TUrnese 
 
 From Brienz to Schiipflieim (guide necessary) in S hours, 
 see p. 91. 
 
 From Brienz over the Briinig, new post- road, see U. 2-3 ^ one- 
 horse carr. to Alpnach-Gestad 24 fr. 
 
 The highest peak of the Brienzer tjrat is the Rothhom (.7917'). cele- 
 brated for the extensive view it commands. A good bridle-patli leads to 
 tlie summit in 4i 2 hrs. (guide, j fr.. unnecessary; horse 16 fr.j. Inn 
 'i4 hr. below the summit, erected 1S67 (K. 31)2, B". 2, A. 1 fr.). The lirst 
 third of the route only is fatiguing, as far as tlie Planalp Chalets (5397' ) ; 
 the ascent of the Flaualji (Restaurant Fluck, also a few beds), watered 
 by the Miihlibach. and of the last slopes of the mountain is gradual. At the 
 top stands the boundary-stone of the Cantons of Bern, Lucerne, and 
 Unterwalden. The old path leads by Schwanden., the pa.stures of Eck and 
 Irtscheltfu. and the small Eyste (which is left on the r.). The view from 
 the summit embraces the chain of the Bernese Oberland (p. 12l>), the 
 Lake of Brienz in the foreground: a glimpse of the Lake of Thun between 
 the mountains U> the r. above Interlaken: the entire Haslithal from Mei- 
 ringen to the vicinity of the Grimsel ; on the other side the little Lake of 
 Ey, the Lake of Sarnen, a considerable portion of the Lake of Lucerne 
 with the Rigi. part of the Lake of Zug. a long strip of the Lake of 
 Neuchatel, and even the Lake of Constance. The pi-ospect vies with the 
 view from the Xiesen (p. 102). The High Alps of Bern are not entirely 
 visible, being hidden by the Faulhorn chain, but the chain of the Titlis, 
 (and particularly the Titlis itself), stands out in its entire extent; to the 
 S. of it are the Sustenhora, the Trifthorn, the snow peaks to the E. of 
 Dberliasli. etc.; the Olarnisch and the Sentis are also distinctly visible. 
 
 The Lake of Brienz (1850'J . T\/-2 M. long, 21/4 M, wide, 
 near the Giessbach 500' deep, near Oberried '2100' deep, is 26' 
 higher than the Lake of Thun, with which it is supposed to have 
 been formerly united (p. lOJJ, Its banks are surrounded by- 
 lofty wooded mountains and rocks; to the r. the Triftenhorii. 
 Only the lowest and least striking fall of the Giessbach (^see 
 belowj is visible from the lake. Beyon.d the Giessbach, on the 
 S. bank, stands the village of JseltwaLd. with an ancient chateau 
 of the Countess d'Ericourt; in the lake is a small wooded islet. 
 The ruins of the castle of Rinygenbery ( 2024'J, on a promontory 
 at the W. extremity of the lake, with the church of that name, 
 surrounded by woods and orchards, and the old tower of the 
 Church of GoLzwyl. standing on an isolated eminence, are extremely 
 picturesque objects in the landscape. On the opposite bank the 
 Liitschlne. descending from the valleys of Grindelwald and Lauter- 
 brunnen, discharges itself into the lake, which gradually contracts, 
 and at length joins the lake of Thun (^comp. p. 104) under the 
 name of the Aare. As the steamer approaches its destijiation, 
 the snow-tields of the Ebnefluh suddenly become visible through 
 a ravine to the S, 
 
 The C a r r i a g e - r a d i r o m B r i e n z t o I n t e r 1 a k e n (12 M. : one-horse 
 carr. 7 — 8 fr.), on the N. bank of the lake, passes through (1 3L) Ebligen, 
 (2'|2 M.) Oberritd, (3 M.) Niederried^ then, at a considerable elevation above 
 the lake, between the rocks, to (2'i2 M.) Riitggenberg^ past the little Lake 
 of Golzwyl (p. 1(»7), at the base of the hill crowned with the ancient church- 
 tower, through Golziciil (beautiful views) to the bridge (Zollbriicke) at 
 Interlaken (3 31.).
 
 Oberland. GIESSBACH. 29. Route. 127 
 
 1. The Giessbach. 
 
 -'Hotel at the Giessbach, R. from 3 tr., B. l'J2, D. or S. 4, illuminatioii 
 «)f the Falls 1 (always charged for the first nightj, A. 1, pension 6 to 12 tr. 
 Whey-cure estab. English, French, and German new.spapers in the*reading- 
 room' The hotel belongs to the Ssteauiboat Co. ; Restaurant and Post Ofjict 
 connected with the hotel. The Weisses Krfuz at Traclit (p. 125j is a De- 
 pendance of the lujtel. 
 
 Illumination of the Falls by means of Bengal lights, before the middle 
 of June on Moiulays and Saturdays, from that time till the end of Sep- 
 ti inber every evening (I fr., see above, non-customers 1',-^ 1»'-)- Tbe elVect 
 of this illumination is certainly striking, although perhaps of questionable 
 taste. Un the ringing of a bell visitors betake themselves to the terrace 
 uppusite tlie falls; the signal being given by the discharge of a rocket, the 
 whole of the falls are suddenly bathed in a tlood of light, changing from 
 white to red, and afterwards to green. — In the height of the seas(m it 
 is a wise precaution to order ro<jms at the hotel a few days before hand; 
 travellers may, if they prefer it, return to Brienz and Tracht at the con- 
 clusion of the illumination. 
 
 Steamboat to or from Interlaken in :jii, to or from Brienz in 10 min., 
 see pp. IdcJ. I'Jo. The new saloon-steamers which ply on the lake do not 
 both belong to the same company. Travellers with return-tickets should 
 therefore ot)serve the names of the vessels. 
 
 Rowing-boat from Brienz to tlie Giessbach in '|j hr.. each rower J fr. 
 Tl»e buatmen (jf Brienz usually demand 3 fr. for a boat with two rowers. 
 From Interlaken to the Giessbach in 2 hrs., (3 to 8 fr. 
 
 Footpath from the bridge of Brienzwyler (pp. 91, 12;j : to the Giess- 
 bach 6 31. J, for some distance along the r. bank of the Aare, through 
 meadows, then by a narrow bridge to the 1. bank, and thence through 
 shady woods to the Giessbach hotel in ^^ in-. From the Giessbach to 
 Brienz (0 JI.) by the same path till the last-mentioned bridge is crossed. 
 From the Giessbach to Interlaken , see p. 128. 
 
 The *Gie8sbach, forn.erly inaccessible, became known in I81b, 
 when the schoolmaster Kehrli [d. i8;j4j constructed a path, 
 for the use of whicli he exacted a small toll from visitors. 
 His heirs sold their right in 1854, and it is now the property 
 of the Steamboat Co. of the Lakes of Brienz and Thun. Since 
 the construction of the hotel, the Giessbach has become one of 
 the most delightful ami popular resorts in Switzerland. The 
 adjuncts harmonise so well with the character of the scenery as 
 even to enhance its attractions. 
 
 A well-kept footpath ascends from the landing-place to the 
 hotel in ^/^ hr. (Near the first curve is a bridge spanning the 
 lower fall. J Un reaching the sixth curve a charming glimpse of 
 the upper fall is obtained. Farther up stands the Kanzel, com- 
 manding a view of the lake. In the wooden house adjoining, 
 the descendants of Kehrli, the lirst explorer of the falls, keep 
 a repository of carved wood -work at tixed and not exorbitant 
 prices. Un the opposite side of the path is a white marble 
 tablet in memory of Kehrli. 
 
 The adjoining *Terntce is the most remarkable poiut. It 
 commands a full *view of the Giessbach, a series of cascades 
 (seven in ntimberj falling from rock to rock from a great height 
 (highest point 1148' above the lake). The falls are inferior to 
 those of the Keichenbach (p. 1*23 ) in height, but the richness
 
 128 Route '29. GIE88BACH. 
 
 ol' the foliage and the brilliant green of the herbage invest them 
 with an exquisite charm , and give a park - like aspect to the 
 scene. In hot weather it is delightful to rest under the shade 
 of the lofty trees , enjoying the coolness of the breeze produced 
 by the falls. 
 
 Good paths lead from the hotel and terrace to the precipice 
 over which the cataract falls , skirting both sides of the stream 
 as far as the second bridge (1/4 hr.}; but thence to the upper 
 fall (1/2 lir-) there is a path on the r. bank only. There is no 
 bridge over the Second Fall, but the visitor can pass behind it 
 by means of a grotto which connects the banks of the stream. 
 The landscape , seen through this veil of falling water , has a 
 most curious appearance. If time permit, the visitor should not 
 fall to ascend to the (3/4 hr.) Upper Fall, where the Giessbach, 
 issuing from a gloomy ravine in the rocks (490' high), is preci- 
 pitated under the bridge into an abyss, 190' in depth. This 
 fall is best seen from a projecting rock on the r. of the bridge, 
 to reach which the stream must be crossed. About noon rainbows 
 are formed in the falls. 
 
 From the *Rauft, a group of wooded rocks on the N.E. side 
 of the valley, opposite to the falls, about 400' above the hotel 
 and 800' (almost perpendicular) above the lake, the view em- 
 braces the entire Lake of Brienz , the mouth of the Aare and 
 the environs of Brienzwyler, the mountains of Brienz (opp. to 
 the spectator above Brienz) , the long Brienzer Grat and the 
 Brienzer Rothhorn (p. 126); then beyond Interlaken, a portion 
 of the Lake of Thun, commanded by the pyramid of the Niesen 
 (p. 102). The 'Rauft' is furnished with seats, and the path to 
 it from the hotel is indicated by a direction-post. In returning, 
 the path which overhangs the lake, opposite the fnlls, and descends 
 to the terrace, should be selected. 
 
 From the Giessbach to the Faulhorn (p. 121), a fatiguing, un- 
 pleasant walk of 7—8 hrs., guide (6 fr.) necessary. 
 
 From the Giessbach to Interlaken (4 hrs.), path somewhat 
 difficult at first, afterwards easier, by Iseltwald 2 hrs.. Sengg ^-z hr., Ehrsch- 
 wand i|2 hr., Bonigen (p. 104) i(v hr., Interlaken i)2 hr. About midway 
 between the hotel and the lake the path crosses the brook Cat the direction- 
 post) by an old stone bridge, and skirts the lake at a considerable elevation, 
 until a short distance before Bonigen. 
 
 30. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Jochpass. 
 
 Co)/ijK Map, p. 7'}. 
 101)2 hrs. : Im-Hof li|4, Eng.'^tlenalp bhi (descent 4), .loch li,- (descent 1), 
 Triibsee 1/2 (ascent 1), Engelberg 11,2 (ascent 21J2) hrs. Carriage - road to 
 Imhof, after that a bridle-path. Horse 30, guide 10 fr. Guide only necessar\ 
 from the point (1 hr. above Im-Hof, near an old iron-foundry) where tlic 
 path diverges from the Susten route, to the entrance of the valley of Genthtl, 
 an ascent of lij2 hr. Hence to the Joch the way cannot be mistaken; the de- 
 scent of the pass is easily found, especially if the direction be known. If ne 
 cessary, a guide may be taken from the lingstlenalp (5 fr.). If the travelK r 
 is unwilling to undertake so long a walk ( lO^ja hrs.) in one day, he will
 
 ENGSTLEN-ALP. 30. Route. 129 
 
 find conitortablo quarters at the Engstlenalp. Those who commence this 
 route at En^elber^ should not fail to take a guide to the summit of the 
 l-ass (to the Enpstlenalp 5 fr.)- 
 
 From Meirinfren to im-Z/o/" ('2097'") over the Kirchet in IV4 hr., 
 see p. 132. Then following the Susten route for 1 hr. , as far 
 as an old iron-foundry, at the confluence of the Genthelbach 
 (which descends from the Susten and drives a saw-mill) and the 
 (Gadmenhach. The rouch and stony bridle-path now ascends 
 rapidly through forest in a N.E. direction for nearly 21/2 hrs., 
 as far as the Genthelalp , where it crosses to the 1. bank of the 
 brook. It remains on this side for nearly 2 hrs., passing several 
 chalets, the ascent beiFig very gradual all the way. (To the W. the 
 three peaks of the Wetterhorn and the Hangend-Gletscherhorn 
 continue to be visible as far as the extremity of the Urbachthal. 
 see p. 132). In the Genthelthal and the Engstlenthal the Pinus 
 rembra, or 'cedar of the Alps' occasionally occurs. (Another 
 route, shorter, but not easily found without a guide, leads from 
 Meiringen on the r. bank of the Aare, leaving Imhof on the r., 
 and affording a line view of the valleys which unite at Imhof.) 
 
 At the ^f.E. extremity of the Genthelalp the path crosses by 
 a bridge to the Enffstlenalp on the 1. bank. From the middle 
 of the steep, smooth precipice ((ladmenfluh) , from 8 to 15 (ac- 
 cording to the time of year) abundant streamlets bubble forth, 
 forming a series of picturesque waterfalls (Jungholzbnche, Jiingis- 
 brunnen, Schxcarzbrunnen , or Achtelsaasbdche ) . (Rustic Inn). 
 The Enystlenbach , as the brook is named after this point, also 
 boasts of some considerable falls. The rough path, passing masses 
 of rock , in the crevices of which groups of firs have inserted 
 their roots, ascends hence in 2 hrs. to the *Engstlen-Alp (B092'), 
 at nearly the same elevation as the Grinisel-Hospice (p. 134). 
 This is one of the most beautiful of the pastures of the Alps, 
 with its flower-carpeted meadows, Alpine roses, venerable pines, 
 brooks, and waterfalls. (Excellent drinking-water, temperature 
 40 — 42" Fahr.). The view to the S.W. embraces the Finster- 
 Aarhorn, Schreckhorn. Wetterhorn. and Hreithorn ; to the E. the 
 Wendenstocke and Titlis, all snow-peaks. The small Jnn affords 
 tolerable accommodation (R. 2, pension 4 fr.). 
 
 The Wunderbrunnen ('miraculous welP), about 300 paces N.E. of the 
 inn, is an intermittent sprins: which flows copiously in fine weather (when 
 swollen hy the melting snow), especially about 3 p. m. ^ at 5 a. m. it is 
 quite dry. When the weather is chnuly (and the snow ccmsequently does 
 not melt), it almost entirely ceases. The name it bears is hardly justified 
 by such simple natural causes. 
 
 The Titlis (p. 86) is ascended fnmi the Engstlen-Alp in about the same 
 time as from Enpelberp ; from the Enp:stlen-Alp to the .Toch |i)ohr. ; then 
 4 <)r 5 hrs. more over loose stones and filacier ; return in 4 hrs. Guide 
 (one of the servants at the inn) 10 fr. (charged in the bill) and a gratuity. 
 In order not to reach the Titlis too late, travellers generally leave the 
 Encstlen-Alp at 2 a. m. with lanterns. 
 
 The Satteli, a pass to the Gadmenthal (p. 131), 2 hrs. S. of the Engstlen- 
 Alp, commands a beautiful view, embracing the Gadmenthal and the Bernese 
 
 B/-el)i:kkk, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 9
 
 130 Route 30. JOCH-PASS. 
 
 Alps. The rjuto from the Gadmeuthal to the Satteli (6 hrs. from the iuu 
 'am Stein', p. 181, to the Engstlen-Alp) is very steep and requires a guide, 
 there being no beaten track. 
 
 From the Engstlen-Alp to the M e 1 c h a 1 p. About ^li hr. below 
 the inn, near the waterfall, a steep path ascends to (20 min.) the Melchalp, 
 a nearly level pasture with numerous cattle; \iew of the W etterlmrn, the 
 mountains of liern, the Titlis, etc. From the ilelchalp to the Mtlchsee (G42i'> 
 (p. 89j a gradual descent of 1 hr. The Melchthal, see p. Sd. 
 
 The path to Engelberg skirts the Engstiensee (i'/i ^I- long), 
 enclosed on the 8. by the Wendenstocke (9806') with their numer- 
 ous glaciers, and on the N. by the Grauhorn (8910'), and then 
 ascends (1 hr.) to the Joch-Pass (7359'), whence the Wenden- 
 stocke and the Titlis present a most imposing appearance, and a 
 striking view is obtained of the mountains ol L'nterwalden. The 
 snow here does not melt until the height of summer. 
 
 In descending , the footpath becomes rugged and may be 
 easily mistaken; 20 min. Upper Truhsee-Alp ; 25 min. Lower 
 T rub see- Alp ; here on the 1. is the little Tr'dbsee (618-4') with a 
 chalet, on the r. a considerable waterfall (8taubi). 
 
 The bridle-path (2^/> hrs. to Engelberg) turns to the 1. The 
 more agreeable footpath (IV2 ^^- ^o Engelberg) crosses the brook 
 (no bridge) between the waterfall and the lake , which remains 
 on the 1.; then a descent of '^/^ hr. . skirting the precipitous 
 Pfaffenwand (somewhat slippery in rainy weather). The path 
 next traverses the Gerschene Alp, in the direction of a clump of 
 pines, and then enters the forest; the Enyelberger Aa is crossed 
 at the foot of the moujitain. Engelberg (o291') see p. 85. 
 
 31. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass. 
 
 Co nip. Map., p. 76, 
 
 lOija hrs. : Im-Hof liJ4, Gadmen 3 (descent 2), Am Stein 2i|2 (descent 1>J2), 
 Susten-Scheideck 13J4 (descent 1'|-jJ, 31ayen 2 (ascent S^JO, Wasen 1 (ascent 
 11J2) hr. Horse bb, guide iU fr. , unnecessary in line weather. There is 
 one good inn only on this long route, that of Im-Hof; those at Gadmen, 
 the Stein Glacier, and Mayen are poor. Horses and guides are often found 
 on this route returning from Meiringen to Andermatt or Hospenthal, on 
 their return from the Furca or Grimsel route. 
 
 After Napoleon had annexed the little republic of the Valais (founded 
 by him in ISUi) to France in 1811 (p. 25i), and had established a taritf of 
 customs on the Simplon route, the produce of the canton of Bern was 
 sent to Italy by the Susten and the St. Liotthard. The pass was then con- 
 verted into a kind of military road from lU to 12' wide, but two years 
 later, circumstances having changed, it was abandoned, it may still be 
 traced up to the summit of the pass on both sides, and, though no longer 
 practicable for carriages, is the most frequented bridle-path in this part 
 of the Alps. 
 
 From Meiringen in l'/4 hr. to Im-Hof (2143'), see p. 132. 
 The Susten route [Sust = 'custom-house') here diverges towards 
 the E. from the Aare route. It traverses pleasant meadows and 
 wooded slopes, and repeatedly crosses the Gadmenbach, which 
 here winds considerably. To the \\ . at one time the Wetter- 
 horn, the Wellhorn, and the Engelhorner, at another the Schwarz- 
 horn group form the background.
 
 SUSTEN-PAS8. 31. Route. 131 
 
 The lower part of the valley is termed the Miifdenthaly above 
 which are the Sesselthal and the beautiful GadmentliaL with the 
 village Qj hrs.J of Gadmen -(oSUO'j (tolerable inuj , which con- 
 sists of the three hamlets of Eck, Ambiildj and Obermatt. (Path 
 over the Sdtteli to the Eny.stlen-Alp , see p. 129. J The green 
 valley with its magnilicent old maple-trees contrasts singularly 
 with the rugged and precipitous sides of the Gndmenfluft { iU,'2'2U'J, 
 (see p. l'29j. On the slope of the Urathshorner (iO,81<'J to the 
 E., the glacier of Wendea is visible. 
 
 The road ascends gradually to the ('^i/^ hrs.) Inn Am Stein 
 (K. 2, B. 17.2, A. V-2fr-J» at the foot of the"stein Glacier (()335'J 
 and in close proximity to it, surrounded by ice, moraines, and 
 fragments of rock. This glacier is unquestionably one of the 
 most extensive and remarkable in Switzerland. Thirty years ago 
 it was 11/2 M. distant from the old road, but now extends con- 
 siderably beyond it, and it is not improbable that it may some 
 day descend still farther, and till up the entire upper portion of 
 the valley. Its lower extremity is hollowed out in the form of 
 a lofty arch. 
 
 From the summit of the pass (l'/4 hr. ). the Susten-Scheideck 
 ( 7440'J , the view is limited but grand : it embraces the entire 
 chain of precipices and mountains which bound the Mayenthal 
 on the N. , the mighty peaks of the Sustenhurner (11,529'), 
 and Thierberge (11,4HB'J, from which the glacier of Stein de- 
 scends in three arms, and the long jagged ridge of the Gadmen- 
 tluh; to the W. some of the peaks of the Bernese Oberland are 
 visible through a narrow gap. 
 
 The path , now uninteresting , winds down the slopes of the 
 Urathshorner (see abovej. The Mayenbach, which it follows and 
 crosses repeatedly, emerges from a rugged gorge on the r., into 
 which avalanches are frequently precipitated from the SpitzUberg 
 (11,214'} and the majestic SustenhiJrner. Near the (1 hr.) first 
 bridge the path enters the Hundsalp. It then crosses the 
 GurezmettLerbach, which foams along at a great depth below. 
 Several small rivulets on the r. issue from the Kiti Glacier above. 
 
 Fernigen (48(33') is the first group of houses , and the next 
 is the (2 hrs.) village of Mayan (4400'J (Inn near the chapel), 
 consisting of several hamlets (liiti, Hausen, &c.). Here and there 
 stone walls and palisades are erected to afiord protection against 
 avalanches. The village owes its appellation (Muyen., i^lo,y) to 
 the contrast which its green meadows present to the desolation 
 and sterility of the valley of the Reuss. 
 
 Above \\ asen the road passes the Mayenschanz (3606') , an 
 intrenchment commanding the entrance of the Mayenthal, erected 
 in 1712 during the Religious War (p. 291), fortified anew by 
 the Austrians in 1799, and taken and destroyed by the French 
 under Loison after several attacks, Aug. I4th, 1799. 
 
 V*
 
 132 Route 32. IM-HOF. 
 
 The path then descends rapidly to (1 hr.) Wasen (3010') on 
 the St. Gotthard route (p. 77). 
 
 32. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel. 
 
 Coinp. Map^ p. 76. 
 
 10i|-j hrs. : Guttanen 3i|2, Handeck 2, Grimsel Hospice 23(4, summit of 
 the Grimsel 1, Rhone Glacier 11(4, return in S^j-i hrs. Good bridle-path, 
 guide unnecessary. Horse from Meiringen to the Handeck (and back in 
 1 day) 15, Grimsel 20, Rhone Glacier 30, Hospenthal or Andermatt 40 fr. 
 (comp. p. 98). 
 
 The carriage-road , completed for some distance beyond Im- 
 Hof, crosses to the 1. bank of the Ante near Meiringen, and 
 ascends the Kirchet (2782', 840' above the Aare), a wooded 
 ridge sprinkled with erratic blocks of granite, probably the mo- 
 raine of a glacier which once descended thus far. It here 
 divides the valley into the Lower and Upper Haslithal. At the 
 summit , 1/2 ^^- from Meiringen , a direction-post Indicates the 
 road '^Zur ftnstern Aarschlucht'. 
 
 Passing between huge i-ocks. the traveller reaches in lOmin. the 'Tinstere 
 Schlauche, where the river Aare runs through a gorge 300' below the road, 
 between perpendicular precipices (especially interesting to geologists). On 
 arriving at the little 'Lamm' Inn, a toll of ^'j-z fr., or 1 fr. for a party of 
 3 or more, is levied for the construction of the path. 
 
 The road descends the Kirchet by long windings (which the 
 pedestrian may avoid), traverses the fertile meadows at the bot- 
 tom of the valley, and crosses to the r. bank of the Aare near 
 ('/4 hr.) Im-Hof (''Hotel Im-Hof, R. IV2, B. IV2, A. 3/^ fr.). 
 where the two routes of the Susten (p. 130) and the Jochpass 
 (p. 129) diverge to the E. 
 
 A visit to the Urbachthal , which opens here towards the S.W. , as 
 far as the huge Gaiili Gla<ier at the head of the valley , may be accom- 
 plished in 10 to 12 hrs. : it is advisable to take a guide, who assists the 
 traveller in ascending the glacier, whence a view of the head of the valley 
 and an imposing picture of the Bernese Alpine world is obtained. The 
 sides of the valley consist of several terraces, the lowest of which is 
 cultivated. Close to the Gauli Glacier is the last chalet. A path over the 
 glacier to the r. leads from this point to the Rosenlaui Glacier (p. 123); 
 another to the 1. to the Unter-Aar Glacier (p. 134). For these routes ex- 
 perienced guides are of course necessary {Joh. Tdnnler and M. Niigeli of 
 Tmhof recommended). 
 
 The carriage-road in the valley of the Aare terminates above 
 Im-Hof, and is continued by a well-kept bridle-path, which pene- 
 trates into the narrow ravine of the Aare. At many ' of the 
 chalets which lie scattered about like mushrooms in this district, 
 refreshments are offered for sale , but frequently at exorbitant 
 prices. At the (1 hr.) end of the flrst considerable ascent, deli- 
 cious drinking-water bubbles up near a waterfall. The path then 
 descends and crosses to the 1. bank of the Aare, \vhere (25 min.) 
 the rocks have been blown up to make room for it. It next 
 crosses several mountain streams, which are covered with ava- 
 lanche-snow during the early part of summer. Im-Boden 
 (1/2 hr.) , a small hamlet on a terrace of the valley. Near a
 
 FALLS OF THE HANDECK. 32. Route. 133 
 
 lioiise , 5 niin. farther, a shorter and more agreeable path tra- 
 verses the meadows for 1/4 lir- Then ('io min.J Guttanen (oooO'J 
 (Bar, poor), the largest and poorest village in the (Jberhaslithal, 
 situated in a second basin of considerable extent. The meadows 
 in all directions are covered with heaps of stones, which have 
 been brought down from the mountains by avalanches, and are 
 then collected in order to prevent injury to the grass. 
 
 Beyond Guttanen (I/2 hr.J a bridge spans the wild and foam- 
 ing Aare. The valley contracts, and barren black rocks rise on 
 the r. Vast masses of loose stones , which have been arrested 
 in their fall on the less precipitous slopes of the mountain, 
 testify to the power of avalanche and torrent. On the r. the 
 Weiss-Glacier discharges its waters into the valley. On the 
 mountain-summits small snow-ftelds are here and there visible. 
 In 1/2 hr. bridge across the Aare; 10 min. beyond, where the 
 ascent begins, a well of pure water on the r. The Aare becomes 
 more rapid, and here forms a small waterfall. A ridge of rock 
 covered with tir-trees forms the boundary of the valley. The 
 paved road leads over granite rocks , rounded and polished by 
 glacier-friction (comp. Introd. XIV). 
 
 At a bend in the path (^-^4 hr. from the last bridge, 8 min. 
 before the inn is reachedj a short side-path leads (1.) to the 
 **Talls of the Handeck, the spray of which plentifully besprin- 
 kles the traveller, as it precipitates itself headlong into an abyss, 
 250' in depth. Grand as the spectacle is from this point, it is 
 undoubtedly liner from the chalet 5 min. lower down, as the cas- 
 cade is then seen from below. Next to the falls of the Tosa 
 (p. 143) and the Rhine (p. 24), this is the most imposing of all 
 the Alpine falls, owing to its height, its great volume of water, 
 and the wild character of the adjuncts. So great is the rapidity 
 of the stream that it falls unbroken half way to the bottom; 
 it is then met by the projecting points of rock, and forms a vast 
 circle of spray and vapour, in which rainbows are formed by the 
 retlection of the sun's rays between 10 and 1 o'clock. The silvery 
 water of the Aerlenhach, which descends from the glacier of that 
 name, and, mingling with the turbid Aare, is precipitated into the 
 same gulf, serves to enhance the effect. The approach to the fall 
 is grandest from the new bridge (^attendant '/'i ^'^•)- The chalet 
 of the Handeck has been converted into an Inn [4059'), much 
 frequented by artists. Carved wood may be purchased here at 
 moderate prices. 
 
 Kniin the Haiulock the Iraveller (with an experienced guide) may cross 
 the Erlen O'larii'r to tlie Utbacldhal (p. 13'2), and t'oHuvv the latter to Innevl- 
 kivchen (p. 124), a walk nt" about 1'2 lirs. 
 
 The dark pine-forest becomes more opei» , the trees rarer, 
 until they disappear altogether a little above Handeck. The stony 
 soil produces only stunteil grass and moss, and occasional!) the
 
 134 Route 39. GKIMSKL HOSPICE. 
 
 Alpine rose (rhododendron). On the opposite side of the valley, 
 V2 hr. from Handeck , the Gelmerhach forms a picturesque cas- 
 cade, which issues from the Gelmersee, situated on the mountain 
 to the 1., between the Gelmerhorn and Schaubhorn , and which 
 may be visited from Handeck. Path steep. 
 
 The valley becomes narrower and more sombre. The path 
 frequently crosses the Aare, now a mere brook. Vegetation dis- 
 appears almost entirely. Between the Handeck and Grimsel the 
 only two human habitations (1^/4 hr. from the former, 1 hr. 
 from the latter) are two chalets in the Raterichsboden f5616'), 
 the last basin below the Grimsel , once probably the bed of a 
 lake, and still marshy and sterile. 
 
 The path , here in good condition , ascends for a short dis- 
 tance through a wild and narrow defile, and then becomes com- 
 paratively level. It at length quits the bank of the Aare, turns 
 to the r. , and in 1/4 hr. reaches the Grimsel Hospice (6129') 
 (B. V/o, K. 11/2, S. 4, A. 1 fr.\ formerly a place of refuge for 
 poor travellers crossing the Grimsel , and the property of the 
 Oberliasli district. It is always thronged with tourists in the 
 height of summer. 
 
 This barren mountain-basin . termed the Grimselgrund , lies 
 974' below the summit of the pass [p. 136). Bald rocks, whose 
 crevices are filled with perpetual snow, with an occasional patch 
 of scanty herbage or moss, form the surrounding scenery. A 
 small and gloomy lake, fed by glacier-streams, lies near the hos- 
 pice. Beyond it is a meagre pasturage, the Seemattli^ which 
 during one or two months affords precarious sustenance for the 
 cows of the Hospice. 
 
 The jagpert ridge whicb rises towards the W. above tbe ravine tlirough 
 which the Aare flows is named the AgassizJiorn (IS-OGC), and forms the 
 y. pedestal of the Finster- Aarhf>rn . connected with which on the W. is 
 the ridce of the Viescherhorner. The Finster-Aarhorn (14.026'), the highest 
 of the Bernese mountains, is not visible from the Hospice itself, but from 
 the Xollen, a rocky eminence a few paces distant. This giant of the Ober- 
 land was ascended for the first time in 1829, twice in 1S42, and fre- 
 quently within the last few years by members of the English and Swiss 
 Alpine Clubs. Tbe usual route is by the Oberaarjocli to the Rothloch, a 
 species of grotto at the base of the WaUisei- Bothhorn ( Ilugihorn) , where 
 the night is usually spent. Then round tbe W. side of the Finsteraarborn 
 across the Walliser ViescJierfirii iu 5 hrs. to the base of tbe peak, the ascent 
 «if whicb is a fatiguing scramble of 2 hrs. more. The entire expedition 
 from the Rothhornsattel to the summit and back occupies 11 hrs. In 
 1S65 the Editor attempted tbe ascent from the E. side, but found it im- 
 practicable. 
 
 Tbe Aare flows from two mighty glaciers t6158'). tbe Vorder-Aar or 
 Unter-Aar Glacier, and the Ober-Aar Glacier, to the W. of the Hospice. 
 The latter (0 hr«. from the Hosjiico). on ice-field with numerous crevasses, 
 i-^ separated from the Unter-Aar Glacier by tbe Zinkenstocke. A bridle- 
 path, of easy access, leads in 2 hrs. to tbe t^oot of the former. The ascent 
 of tbe glacier itself is neither dangerous nor fatiguing. It forms a con- 
 tinuation or offshoot of the Fin!:fer-Aar and lanter-Aar Glaciers. At the point
 
 GLACIERS OF THE AAPvE. 32. Route. 135 
 
 where the two glaciers meet, a medial moraine, in some places 80' hi^h, 
 is fr)rmed fsee Introd. XIV). The valley, now termed the Aareboden, ex- 
 tending from the Hos))ice far above the Unter-Aar Glacier, fonnerly bore 
 the appellation of the BUlmlisalp (flf)wery Alp), and consisted of rich 
 pasture-land. The steady advance of the glacier, and the detritus which 
 has descended from the mountain, have, however, now destroyed all traces 
 of fertility. 
 
 The two glaciers of the Aare present many attractions to those who 
 are interested in the investigation of the theory of glaciers. The eminent 
 Swiss naturalist Ilngi caused a hut. now in ruins, to be constructed in 1827 
 on the lower glacier, at the foot of the rock named ' im Abschwung", the 
 last point of sf)lid earth in the midst of ice-fields, separating the two 
 glaciers, 3 hrs. from the Hospice. This hut. moving with the glacier on 
 which it stood, was in 1840 at a distance of 5900' from the rock at the foot 
 of which it had been originally built. On this same glacier the celebrated 
 Agai^siz, then professor at Neuchatel. took up his temporary residence in 
 1841 (the expense of the undertaking being defrayed by the King of Prussia) 
 with Desor., Vor^l, Wild., etc. as his companions. These .<tara)ii.'^ published 
 several very interesting accounts of the results of their observations, dating 
 them from the '■Tlotel des Xenchd/elois', with which name they dignified 
 the stone hut, erected under a projecting mass of mica-slate, to afford 
 protection against wind and storm. The latest observations on this interest- 
 ing subject have been made by 51. DoUfum^-Ainistet of Miilhausen in Alsace. 
 He has erected a 'pavilion' r)n the summit of the point where the two 
 arms of the lower glacier unite, and passes some weeks there every year. 
 According to his calculations the glacier advances 250' per annum, that is 
 nearly 8 in. per diem. The right arm of the glacier abounds in crevasses, 
 the left is quito level. 
 
 The -Xittle Sidelhorn (0O74'), to the S.W., is often ascended in 3 hrs. 
 from the Hospice (guide necessary: a boy will suffice, 4 fr.). [The Great 
 Sidelhorn (9440') is more than double the distance from the Hospice, to 
 tlu' S.W.] The path, although steep, is for the most part easy; the last 
 i)i lir. alone presents any difficulty, on account of the loose fragments of 
 granite with which the entire summit is covered. The view is grand, but. 
 deficient in foreground and vegetation. Gigantic peaks surround the 
 spectator on every side, to the W. the Schreckhorn. the Finster-Aarhorn, 
 and the Viescherhom : to the N. E. the rounded peak of the Galenstock, 
 from which the glacier of the Rhone descends; to the S. the Upper Valais 
 chain with its numerous ice-streams, particularly the Gries glacier ; to the 
 S.W.. in the distance, the chain of ^Monte Eosa, the Matterhorn. etc. The 
 view of the two glaciers of the Aare with their grand medial moraine 
 (comp. Dills Panorama) is particularly interesting. Those who intend to 
 cross the Grimsel need not return to the Hospice, but may descend at once 
 to the Glacier of the Rhone (keeping the Todtensee on the r.), or to 
 Obergestelen in the vallev of the Rhone (p. 139) (keeping the Todtensee 
 on the ].. see below) in 3''-.. hVs. 
 
 The ascent of the Ewie:-Schneehorn ( 10,928') ])resents no great difficulty 
 to experienced climbers. Kroju the Grimsel to the Boll/iis.f Parilion 3 hrs., 
 )>assage of the T.auter-Aar Glacier to the foot of the mountain lifj hr., to the 
 (^•auligrat 2 hrs.. thence to the Ewig-Schneehorn t hr. The summit afl'ords a 
 uiamiiticent panoratna : the Lauti'raarjoch. Schreckhorn. Wetterhorn. Finster- 
 iind Oberaarhorn. Studerhorn, etc. ; " to the K. the Titlis and Tiidi; S. the 
 Alps of the Valais. — Descent to the Gauli Glacier (p. 132) and Oauli Alp, 
 where if necessary the night may be spent, in 3 — 4 hrs. i to /nnerfkirclieii 
 ( p. 121 ) in 3 hrs. more. This excursifui is unattended with danger, but 
 i-ciiuires a szood guide. 
 
 Fro m the Grimsel o v e r ( he O b e r a a r j o c h ( 10.62V1 and Viei'fh 
 (llariir to Viear/i (p. 140) .shf>uld be undertaken by none but the most ex- 
 IMM-ienced mountaineers; an expedition of 14 — 15 hrs.. two guides necessary. 
 This pass, although less imposing than many others, is nevertheless interest- 
 intr. An easier route (but 2 — 3 hrs. longer) is from the Oberaarjoch across 
 the Viesch Glacier to the GriinhornlUcke (I0.8i3'), the ridge between the
 
 136 Route 33. GRIxMSEL. 
 
 Griinhorner and Walliser Viesdierhiivner , thence descending by the Great 
 Aletsch Glacier to the Faulbercj (p. 119) and Ejigischhorn. 
 
 From the Grimsel by the Strahlegg to Grindelwald, see 
 p. 119; by the Lauteraarjoch, see p. 119. 
 
 A steep bridle-path , partly paved with flat stones , and in- 
 dicated by stakes , winds up the mountain-pass of the Grimsel 
 (7103'), which connects the valley of Oberhasli on one side 
 with the St. Gotthard route , and on the other with the Upper 
 Valais. At (i hr.) the summit of the pass (Hauseck), the boundary 
 between the cantons of Uern and Valais, tlie snow seldom entirely 
 melts. The small Todtensee ('Lake of the Dead') lies on the 8. 
 side of the ridge. 
 
 In the summer of 1799 this lake was used by the Austrians and French 
 as a burial-place. The former, with the Valaisians, had entrenched them- 
 selves on the Grimsel, having extended their advanced-posts as far as the 
 bridge of the Aare. All the attempts of the French under Lecoiirde (stationed 
 at Guttanen) to drive the Austrians from this position were inetl'ectual. A 
 peasant of Guttanen, however, named Fahner, at length conducted a small 
 detachment under General Gudin over the Gelmer, Dolti, and Gersthorn, 
 by paths hitherto untrodden except by goats and herdsmen. Being thus 
 brought close to the Grimsel they attacked the Austrians, and after an 
 obstinate conflict compelled them to retire into the Valais and in the di- 
 rection of the Hospice. Many of those who sought to escape by the valley 
 of the Aare perished in the abysses of the mountains and glaciers, while 
 others fell by the bullets of the French. The French presented their guide, 
 at his request, with the Raterichsboden (p. 134), as a reward for his ser- 
 vices, but the government of Bern annulled the gift some months later. The 
 ridge from which the French poured down upon the Grimsel, on the >\. of 
 the Pass, is termed ^Mgeli's Gratli (9180'). 
 
 Before the summit of the Pass is attained, the direct path to 
 Obergestelen in the Valais (p. 139j diverges to the r. from the 
 Furca route, and proceeds in a S. direction, passing on the \V. 
 bank of the Todtensee. The route now described pursues an E. 
 direction, skirting the N. side of the lake. It descends (to the l.J 
 to the Maienwand, a precipitous declivity of 1000', carpeted 
 with a profusion of Alpine plants (especially rhododendrons) and 
 fresh green herbage, and commanding a view of the Rhone Glacier. 
 In 11/4 hr. the hotel (see below) on the Furca road is attained. 
 
 33. From the Rhone Glacier to Andermatt. 
 The Furca. 
 
 Coinp. Map, p. 7 (J. 
 
 21 M. Diligence daily (about noon) in 4'(-^ hrs., coupe 7 fr. 45 c, 
 interieur 6 fr. 5(>c. ; booking-oflice for those proceeding to the Rhone Glacier, 
 at Hospenthal, nut at Andermatt. — Distances: from the Rhone Glacier 
 to the Furca 2'J-j (descent Djo), Realp 2'J2 (ascent 3»J2), Hospenthal l>j-j, 
 Andermatt 'j^ hr. 
 
 The new *Furca Road, constructed principally for strategical rea- 
 sons, is traversed by a diligence during the summer (once daily from 
 Andermatt to Brieg , and vice versa, in 12 hrs. , halting for dinner at the 
 Rhone Glacier ; coupe 20 fr., interieur 17 fr. 4(» c). Striking views of the 
 Rhone Glacier, the Galcnstock, Spitzliberg, etc. are commanded by the new 
 ruute, most of which are nut visible from the old bridle-path. The latter, 
 however, is considerably shorter.
 
 GLACIER OF THP: RHONE. 33. Route. 137 
 
 The *Glacier of the Rhone, imbedded between the Oelmer- 
 horn and Gerslhom (10,400') on the \V., and the Gatenstock 
 (11,956') on the E. , is 9 M. long, and rises in a terrare-like 
 form, resembling a gigantic waterfall suddenly arrested in its 
 career by the icy hand of some Alpine enchanter. Above it 
 towers the Galenstock. At its base is the *H6teL du Glacier du 
 Rhone ^ a substantially built honse , where travellers from the 
 (irimsel, the Fiirca, and the Rhone Valley frequently halt for 
 dinner (ijfr. ; R. 2, L. and A. 1, B. 'ii/.j fr.). (To the Eggisch- 
 horn and Vispach see p. i;)9.) 
 
 During some seasons a ;irey torrent of snow-water issues from 
 an ice-cavern in the Rhone Glacier. This is the Rhone (574*2'), 
 the Rliodanus of the ancients, ^vhich was said to issue 'from the 
 gates of eternal night, at the foot of the pillar of the suiT (the 
 Galenstock), the infant stream which gradually becomes a mighty 
 river, and eventually discharges itself into the Mediterranean after 
 a course of five hundred miles. The inhabitants of the valley 
 point out three warm springs which rise a few min. walk from 
 the hotel, the Rotten or Rhodan, as the true source of the river. 
 These streams bubble up in a circular stone basin, and mingle 
 with the glacier-stream a short distance from their source. — 
 A visit to the Ice Grotto artiticially hewn in the glacier, near 
 the hotel, is recommended (admission '/2 fr. ; umbrella desirable). 
 
 The new Post-Road (see above) to the Kurca crosses the 
 infant Rhone a short distance below the hotel, and then ascends 
 by long windings on the E. side of the valley. Pedestrians 
 should follow the old bridle-path which ascends to the 1. , on 
 the 8.E. side of the Rlione Glacier, skirting its moraine for a 
 short distance. Rhododendrons abound here, remaining in (lower 
 until autumn. 
 
 After a walk of nearly 1 hr. (on the old path), the glacier 
 is quitted , and the course of the Muttbacli ascended to the r. ; 
 in 10 min. the road is rejoined at the point where it crosses 
 the brook. The old path, destitute of view, ascends to the r. 
 by the MuttbaclUltal to the pass; while the *road pursues a 
 straight direction, scaling the nuiuntain in vast curves, and dis- 
 closing striking views of the towering ice-masses of the Rhone 
 Glacier, especially from the se«'oml angle, whence the prospect 
 also embraces the Weissmies , Mischabel , and Weisshorn to 
 the 8. Between the last bend of the road and the culminating 
 point another beautiful retrospect of the pinnacles of the Finster- 
 aarhorn and Schreckhorner is enjoyed. 
 
 After 2^/4 hrs. of moderate walking (from the hotel ; the dili- 
 gence takes 'ihrs.) the summit of the Furca ( 7992') is attained 
 {Hotel de la Furca, R. 2, B. I'/.j, D. or S. ;; fr. ). The pass, 
 seldom entirely free from snow, descends abruptly on both sides, 
 and li»>s between two peaks, bearing a fninicd resemblance to
 
 138 Route 33. VV\W\. 
 
 the prongs of a fork ffurca). View (not so tine as miglit be 
 expected from the height) of the Bernese Alps , of which the 
 Finsteraarhorn is the most prominent. 
 
 The Footpath which leads from the hotel in 20 min. to the upper 
 part of the Rhone Glacier f p. 137), crosses the glacier, and readies the 
 (rrinisel in 3'|2 hrs., is recommended to pedestrians proceeding from the 
 St. Gotthard route to the Grimsel. 
 
 The Furcahorner are occasionally ascended for the sake of the view, 
 especially the more remote summit ( 10,469'). which may be attained from 
 the hotel in 2'|2 — S'lohrs., with guide f5 fr. and fee)-, descent in 2 hrs. 
 For the nearer and lower summit (8753'), 1 lir. from the hotel, no guide 
 is necessary. 
 
 The *Galenstock (11.056') is a magnificent point of view, recommended 
 to ])ractised climbers with trustworthy guides f ascent 6, descent 4 hrs.). 
 X. of the Galenstock arc the RJwnesiock (11,821') and the Dammastock 
 dl.fllfl'), both of which have lately been ascended several times, especially 
 from Guttanon (p. 133). On the X.W. between the Galenstock and the 
 GletscJihorn descends the TiefengletsrJier, where some magnificent crystals 
 were found in Sept., 1868. The grotto which once concealed those treasures, 
 at the base of the Gletschhorn. is by no means easy of access: guide desir- 
 able. The entire weight of the crystals fovmd here (clouded topaz) amounted 
 tf) 12 — 15 tons. Some of the most beautiful specimens are now in the 
 Museum at Bern (p. 95). 
 
 Tlie Old Path now descends rapidly into the Garschenthal, 
 and traverses nionotonons, treeless pastures, interesting to botanists 
 only. Here, especially on the Siedelnalp and Wasseralp, nnmerons 
 species of Alpine plants are found. The New Road skirts the 
 lofty vS.E. slope of the Galenstock. To the 1. the Siedeln Glacier 
 is visible, which discharges itself near the road in a picturesque 
 fall; adjacent to it rise the pointed peaks of the Bilhlenstock ; 
 farther to the 1. is the Tiefen Glacier. Then the Refuge (good 
 Ital. wine) is reached, the only h\iman habitation between the 
 Furca Hotel and Kealp. On the (4 M.) Elmeten Alp (6827') 
 commence the long windings by which the road descends into 
 the Urseren Valley (see below); the pedestrian may avoid these 
 by taking the old path . from Avhich , however , the view is in- 
 ferior. To the N.E. near Andermatt, the Oberalp route is visible 
 (R. 78). In descending, the road is quitted a few hundred 
 paces beyond the 50th kilom. -stone by several steps on the 1. ; 
 in ascending, it is left 50 paces beyond the first bridge, 3^4 M. 
 from Realp. 
 
 Realp (5034') is a village consisting of a few poor houses. 
 Father Hugo, a successor of the hospitable Capuchins, now pre- 
 sides over a modest establishment at his * Hospit- Realp (ex- 
 cellent wine; bed 1. B. 1 fr.). Adjacent is the Hotel des 
 Alpe.'f (B. 1, B. 1, D. l'/.2— '2'A2 fr.). 
 
 The sequestered Valley of TJrseren, or TJrner-Thal, watered 
 by the Reuss, 9 M. long, 3/^ y[ wide, enclosed between moun- 
 tains partially covered with snow, possesses excellent pastures. 
 Beyond Realp the new road crosses the Dorfbach, the E. discharge 
 of the Tiefen Glacier (N. rises the Lochberg , 10.125'), reaches 
 (II/4 M.) the Alp Steinherg, and then in a direct line traverses
 
 015KRGKSTKLKX. 34. Route. 139 
 
 the bottom of the valley, overo:rown with brushwood, as far as 
 ri3/4 M.) Zum Borf. To the 1. in the forearound , on the N. 
 side of the valley, tower the jag;ged peaks of the Spitzliberg 
 ri0,049'l. From this point to '(2V4 M.) Hospenthal f^TS?') 
 (see p. 79), where the St. Gotthard route is entered . the road 
 remains on the r. bank of the Keuss. Thence by the St. Gott- 
 hard road to (I'/., M.) Andermatt (M^AI'). see p. 79. 
 
 34. From the Rhone Glacier to Vispach. Eggischhorn. 
 
 35' I-.; 51- Diligence to Brie? (31 M.) once daily fin the afternoon) in 
 o hrs. fto Miinster 11(2, Viesch 13J4, Brio? I3J4 hr.): coupe' 9 fr. 55 c, interienr 
 7 fr. 85 c. (in the reverse direction the diligence takes 7 hrs.). From Briep 
 in Vispacli (4'|-.' M.) diligence twice daily in 2,4 hr. 
 
 The now Carriage-road (Furca route, conip. p. 136) was traversed 
 in 1867 for the first time hy a diligence, of which conveyance the traveller 
 should avail himself, in preference to walking. 
 
 Those who are acquainted with the Rhone Glacier may proceed from 
 the Grimsel direct to Obergestelcn, by the path which on the summit of 
 the pass turns to the r. (leaving the Todtensee on the 1.) and descends the 
 wooded slopes to the village in 21(4 hrs. 
 
 A short distance from the Rhone Glacier Hotel the road 
 crosses the Rhone, which far below careers through its rocky 
 ravine, and descends, romniandiiiff a more open view than the 
 old route, to fS'/., M.) Oberwald (4426') (Hotel de la Furca, 
 new), where it reaches the bottom of the valley. This is the 
 Lpper Valais, a broad expanse of pasture-land, studded with 
 houses and hamlets, enclosed by monotonous chains of mountains. 
 and watered by the Rhone, which is, however, seldom visible. 
 In front rises the Weisshorn, with its dazzling snow-pyramid; 
 behind the traveller the white Galenstock, and to the r. of it the 
 Mutthorn. The valley may be divided into three sections, the 
 upper extending to Viesch , the second as far as the bridge of 
 Grengiols. and the third below this bridge. The inhabitants 
 (Rom. Cath.) speak German; the French language commences 
 in the neighbourhood of Sion Cp. '254). 
 
 At (2 M.) Obergestelen (4450'), Fr. Haut-Chdtillon, the 
 routes from the (^rrimsel, Furca, Nufenen (see below), and Gries 
 (p. 142) (inite. The village was entirely burned down in Sept., 
 IS()S. with the exception of three houses. 
 
 From Oherges tcl en to Airolo hy the Xufoiien PasslOhrs.), 
 rough, uninteresting bridle-path, guide necessary. Commencement of the 
 route, see p. 142. Before reachin- tlu^ Gries Glacier the path leads to the 
 1. and crosses the (3'(2hrs. ) Nufenen-Pass (Xii/enen, yorena) (8000'). the 
 boundary between the cantons of Valais and Tessin, into the Vol Bidrctto, 
 where Italian is first heard. Immediatelv Iielow the pa.ss rises an arm of 
 the Tiriiio, the 1. bank of which the path follows as far as the (13 4 hr.) 
 Hospice air Acqua (5266') (Inn poor, and not moderate), whence another 
 path crosses the Pass of S. Giacomo to the Formazza valley and the Tosa 
 Falls, see p. 143. The lofty situaticui of the Bedretto valley renders it 
 barren and unfruitful. The winter lasts at least six months, and even in 
 summer it occasionally freezes at night. The slopes of the mountains are 
 clothed with wood and pasture, and tlieir sunuuits crowned with glaciers
 
 140 Route 34. VIESCH. 
 
 and ijerpetual snow. Avalanches are frcqtient in spring and winter, the 
 snow of which otten lies on both l)anks of the Ticino as late as September. 
 (i'|;i hr.) Bedretto (4610'), the principal place in the valley. On Jan. 7th, 
 1863, the W. portion of the village was totally destroyed bj' an avalanche, 
 and 28 of the inhabitants perished. The next place is Villa. Near 0.s.sa.sro 
 (iSGl') the road crosses to the r. bank of the Ticino. Fontana (1 M.) is 
 next reached, and (3 ^l.) Airolo (p. 81), 7 M. from Bedretto. 
 
 I'/.j M. "Olrichen or UrUchen (^4368'J (.4w Glacier de Gries), 
 with its pointed spire , is the next village ; opposite is the 
 month of the VaUey of Eyineii (^p. 142j; then Geschenen (4391'), 
 and farther on (4 M. from Obergestelenj, Miinster (4;j97'J (^'GoL- 
 denes Kreaz; one-horse carr. to Brieg 18, to Vispach '20 fr. and 
 gratuity), the principal village in the valley. Beautiful view 
 from the elevated chapel. 
 
 The LoiFelhorn (10,138') is occasionally ascended from Miinster, ascent 
 (0 hrs.) across snow and granite-rocks, view similar to that from the Kggisch- 
 horn, with the addition of the t" inster-Aarhorn in the foreground. 
 
 'JThe next villages, lieckiiiyen, with the handsomest church 
 in the valley , Rltzingen (Post) , Biel., Selkingen , and Blitzmyen 
 are almost contiguous. Before Selkingen is reached, a short-cut 
 diverges to the 1., leaving the village to the r. , but the saving 
 elfected is trilling. 
 
 At (41/2 JVI.) Niederwald (4052 'j (Zum Guten Freund) deli- 
 cious water bubbles up abundantly, under a covering by the side 
 of the road. Beyond Niederwald the Rhone forces its way down 
 to a lower portion of the valley. The road skirts the slope of 
 the hill , through a lonely mountain-valley , and descends at 
 first gradually, and then rapidly to 
 
 41/2 M. Viesch, or Fiesch (38i(3'j (Hotel du Glacier de Viesch; 
 Hotel des Alpes, new; in both K. 2, B. ly.), D. or 8. 3 fr.; Soleil; 
 one-horse carr. to Brieg 10, Vispach 14, Obergestelen 14, Ober- 
 wald 15, Rhone Glacier 20 fr.J, a thriving village in a grand si- 
 tuation, over-shadowed by the Viesctier Horner (the loftiest of 
 which is the Grosse Wannehorn^ 13,01(3'j. The Viesche-A Glacier- 
 (not to be confounded with that of the same name at Grindel- 
 wald , p. 118j extends its two arms towards the valley at this 
 point. 
 
 From Viesch or Lax by the A 1 b r n n - P a s s to A n d e r m a 1 1 e u 
 in the Val Formazza (p. 1 13). Those who, after the ascent of the Eggisch- 
 horn, wish to visit the falls of the Tosa in the Val Formazza, may either 
 ascend the Valais and cross the Gries Pass, or proceed to Andermatten over 
 the Albrun-Pass in 1 day (13 hrs.), as follows : From Lax a good new bridle 
 path leads by (3j4 hr.) Ausserbinii (3468') to (I1J4 hr.) Binn (4784'), a village 
 in the Binnen-Tlial , interesting to mineralogists , where the bridle path 
 ends; 3j^ 111-. Jmfeld (5075'), ^\i hr. pine-forest, 3j^ hr. chalets, l'|4 hr. last 
 chalet, 1 hr. summit of the Pass (8005'), the latter portion of the way 
 stony. Then a descent to the Forno Alp., the highest in the Val Devera; 
 again an ascent to the Colle de Vanin (fine retrospect of the Val Devera 
 and the lake of Codelago), past the Lebendun Lake and down the valley of 
 that name to Andermatten (p. 143), 4'J2 hrs. hom the summit of the pass. 
 — The Tosa Falls may be reached from the Lebendun Lake by the direct 
 route to the 1. across the Niifelyia Pas^s , and through the Niifelgm Valley 
 to Moraat and Auf dt-r Fruth (p. 143), a walk of 13 hrs. froni Lax.
 
 Osf 
 
 
 
 Sua. 
 
 ..-K ./^^'^^'^^^^
 
 !#■ 
 
 -ss— 
 
 i' A "M Li K A M A. Y (1 M II & i9' 1 .i3 U H E fl E ':S . 
 
 1 
 
 n
 
 EGGLSCHIIORN. 34. Route. 141 
 
 From Vicsch to Isellc by the Passo del Boccareccio 
 (Ritter Pass), a fatiguing, but highly interesting expedition (12— 13 hrs.); 
 experienced guide necessary. The route is first through the Binn-Thal 
 (see above), whence i|4 hr. before Binn is reached, it diverges to the r. 
 and ascends through the Lami-Thal in 7i(-.> hrs. to the pass (885S') between 
 the (r.) Hiillehovn (9628') and the (1.) Ueheithorn (U^iiS') (the latter may be 
 scaled without difficulty; magnificent panorama); then a fatiguing descent 
 of l'J2 hr. to the Alp Diveglia {(]\\3.riQrs, for the night, if necessary) in the 
 Val Cherasca, and through the latter by Trasquera to Iselle (p. 260). 
 
 From V i e s c h to P r e m i a by t h e K r i e g a 1 p P a s s , very fatiguing, 
 but picturesque (12—13 hrs.) ; trustworthy guide indispensable. The route 
 ascends the Kriegalp-T/ial , a lateral valley of the Lang-Thai, in 7 lirs. to 
 the summit of the pass on the N. side of the Kriecjalpstock (fine view of 
 the Ilelsenhorn, the ascent of which is more difficult from this point than 
 from the Ritter Pass, above mentioned). Descent by the Val Devera to 
 I'remia in the Val Antigorio (p. 144). 
 
 Very interesting excursion from Viesch to the 
 
 *Eggischhorn. 
 
 The -Egghchhorn (9649') (from Viesch 4'Ij, descent 3«|2, or by the 
 'sliding-route'' 2i|j hrs. ; bridle-path nearly to the summit, horse 10 fr.), is 
 a lofty isolated peak, commanding a magnificent prospect (3 hrs. as far as 
 the inn, guide superfluous). 
 
 The path crosses the stream which flows from the Viesch Glacier, 
 ascending to the r. past several houses, and then through forest; when the 
 latter is quitted, the inn is visible above to the r. Then to the 1., through 
 the enclosure of some chalets; after 5 min., to the 1., then to the r. past 
 two huts. The ' Holel ei Pension Jungfrau (7150') (R. and B. S','-, table d'hote 
 4 fr.), two-thirds of the way up, is well adapted for a lengthened sojourn ; 
 beautiful flora, especially violets and gentians. The bridle-path extends to 
 within •j4 hr. from the summit, to which the pedestrian then scrambles over 
 loose rocks (for inexperienced walkers a guide is desirable, 4 fr. from the 
 hotel). The summit is pyramidal, covered with large masses of rock, and 
 surmounted by a wooden cross. Immediately below the spectator lies the 
 little Mfirjelen-See (J^XQ')., of a dark green colour, in which huge blocks of 
 ice frequently float. In 1870, however, it was dried up. The entire ice-plain 
 of the Alctsch Glacier is visible (15 31. long, probably the longest in the 
 Alps), as well as the Viesch Glacier. Of the innumerable mountain peaks, 
 the most prominent are: to the r., the Galenstock, Ober-Aarhorn, Finster- 
 .Varhorn ; in front, the Eiger, Monch. and Jungfrau ; to the 1., the Aletsch- 
 horn (13,803'), which next to the Finster-Aarhorn is the highest peak N. 
 of the Rhone; more to the S. the Weisshorn, the conspicuous Matterhorn, 
 Mi.schabel, and Dora (Monte Rosa is concealed by the Mischabel). A still 
 more distant snow-peak is said to be the Bosse de Dromadaire of Mont 
 Blanc. The view embraces a great part of the Simplon route with the 
 Ilosjiice, and of the Valley of St. Nicolaus (p. 268). Consult the panorama. 
 
 If the traveller wishes to reach the valley of the Rhone at a point 
 farther down, he should follow the path to La.r., see l»elow, to the r. near 
 tlie chalet below the hotel. The following route is, however, ]>erhaps pre- 
 ferable : from the Jungfrau Hotel a direction vshould be pursued parallel to 
 the Rhone by an almost level path (most Iteautiful view) over the Bettcn 
 Alp., with its small lake (6729', abounding in fish) in 1^\i hrs. to the Rieder 
 Alp, where there is a small", but comfortable inn ( Sepibiis) , and by Hied 
 (3940') down to Morel (see below; in the reverse direction, from Morel to 
 the Rieder Alp, 2iJ2 hrs.). — A path from the Rieder Alp. aflording varied 
 and magnificent views, first ascends the mountain towards the W. for 3j4 hr., 
 then descends precipitously to the (I'l-.' hr.) Aletsch Glacier, crosses this at 
 a perfectly safe place, traversed even by horses, in •j-j hr. , and in t hr. 
 rtjore reaches the Inn (m the Belle Alpe (pension 6 fr.) ; thence to Brieg, 
 (4 hrs. somewhat steep and stony), see p. 257. 
 
 From t he E ggi sell horn to Grindelwald by the Vie$cfi€rjo>/i, 
 £igei'joch, Moncfisjoc/i, Jung/raujoch, see p. 110. — From the Eggisch-
 
 142 Route 34. tAX. 
 
 born to t h e G r i m s e 1 by the Oberaarjodi, see p. 135. — F r o m L a u t e f 
 brunnen to tbe Eggischborn by the Lauinent/ior, see p. 114. 
 
 From tbe Eggiscbborn to Kippel in tbe Lotscbentbal 
 (p. 251) by tbe Lotschenliicke (10,512') in 12 brs., witb experienced guides, 
 down to the Mdrjelen-See, across tbe Great Aletsch Glacier to the Lotschen- 
 liicke, then a descent over tbe deeply furrowed Lotschen-Glacier to the 
 Lotscbentbal. — Another interesting pass to tbe Liitschentbal is by tbe 
 Beic/ifjra/; from tbe inn on the Belle Alpe by tbe Ober Aletsch Glacier 
 aud Beichfirn to tbe culminating point of the Beichgrat (11,762'), between 
 the Scliieiihorn and Liitschtbal Ereitborn ; then a precipitous descent (in 
 all 10 brs.). 
 
 The carriage-road from Viesch traverses the fertile valley for 
 about 21/.2 M., passes through Lax (*Kreuz) with its conspicuous 
 new church, whence the Eggischhorn may also be ascended in 
 41/2 hrs., and then descends by numerous windings (r. Inn 'zum 
 Engel') to the bridge of GrengioLs (GrdngenhriXcke), commanding 
 a tine view the whole way, with the Weisshorn in the background. 
 This bridge spans the Rhone, which here flows through a rocky 
 ravine far beneath. The road then follows the course of the 
 river (at first on its 1. bank, afterwards crossing to the r. by 
 the Kdstenbaum bridge) as far as (5 M. j Morel (HiJteL Eggischhorn). 
 
 The valley widens a little , the road skirting the river which 
 here rolls impetuously over sharp fragments of slate rock. Below 
 Miirel , the Hochfluh Church stands picturesquely on an abrupt 
 eminence which almost blocks up the road. In its vicinity, on 
 the Matt, stands a solitary inn by the road-side. Farther on, 
 the road crosses the Massa, which drains the Great Aletsch 
 Glacier. Naters (2543'J, a considerable village, surrounded by 
 fruit-trees , is commanded by the ruined castles of Weingarten 
 and Super sax (auf der Fluh). 
 
 The road now crosses the broad, stony channel of the Rhone, 
 and reaches (5 M.) Brieg on the Simplon route. Brieg and 
 (4V-2 M.) Vispach, see p. 257. 
 
 35. From Obergestelen to Domo d'Ossola. 
 
 The Gries Pass. Falls of the Tosa. Val Formazza. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. 138. 
 
 48 M. Two days' journey, quarters for tbe night at Andermatten. 
 From L'lricben, or Obergestelen, to the Falls of tbe Tosa and back 12 hrs., 
 a fatiguing day's walk. Bridle-path. Guide to Frutwald (ll>, borse 18 fr.) 
 desirable. Tbe new road through the Val Formazza is now finished to a 
 point N. of Premia. 
 
 A bridge crosses the Rhone at Obergestelen (p. 139). At 
 (10 min.J Im-Loch the path diverges to the 1., into the Eginen- 
 Thal (interesting to the geologist), crosses the Eginenbach above 
 a picturesque waterfall ; next through larch woods , then across a 
 barren, stony tract, where the stillness is only broken by the 
 whistle of the marmot or the murmur of an occasional waterfall, 
 and finally over some green pastures, with scattered chalets (Im- 
 Lad or AUstaffelJ, where the ascent commences. A short distance
 
 TOSA FALLS. 35. Route. 143 
 
 beyond the bridge, which is crossed before the chalets arc reached, 
 the path across the Niifenen Pass (p. i39j to Airolo diverges 
 to the \. The level Gries Glacier is next reached, and is tra- 
 versed in about '20 min. The path is here indicated by posts. 
 The Gries Pass (^<SU-il'j, the boundary between Switzerland and 
 Italy, 4 hrs. from Obergestelen, is surrounded by barren heights. 
 The *view of the Bernese Alps in clear weather is unparalleled. 
 (From the Gries Ci lacier a little frecj[uented path leads N.F2. 
 througli the VaL Corno to the Hospice all' Acqua in the V'al 
 Bedretto, p. 139.) 
 
 The descent on the S. side of the pass is , as is often the 
 case among the Alps, steeper and more fatiguing than on the N. 
 A narrow path to the 1., skirting a precipice, is first followed. 
 The Griesbachj which here rises, unites at Kehrbachi (see belowj 
 with the Tosa (Toce), descending from the Valle Toggia. In 
 the upper part of the Formazza valley, 4 distinct regions may be 
 distinguished, each with its rude summer habitations for the herds- 
 men : Bettelmatt, a single chalet on the upper slope ; Morast on the 
 second (the slope between Betteimatt and Morast is named Wallis- 
 bdcldeii) :, Kehrbachi {a liiaU) and Auf der Fruth {Sulla Frua), on 
 the third, with a small chapel, and adjacent to it an inn. The 
 latter is situated on the margin of the fourth precipitous slope 
 ('•"'Hotel de la Cascade), over which the Tosa, 6b' in width, falls 
 in 3 cascades, widening as it descends. The *Fall8 of the 
 Tosa are untiuestionably among the grandest in the Alps. The 
 river precipitates itself majestically over rounded granite walls 
 to a depth of about iUOO', forming a lofty, unbroken cloud 
 of white foam. The environs are rich in Alpine plants. The 
 waterfall, which when approached from above is scarcely audible 
 until the brink of the precipice is reached, is seen to the best 
 advantage from the valley below. 
 
 From the Tosa- Falls to Airolo on the St. Oottliard-road 8 hrs. 
 A bridle-path, freLiuently difliciilt to trace (guide therefore desirable), but 
 presenting no other ditticulty, leads from the Val Formazza to the Val 
 Bedretto, diverging to the r., by the chapel above tiie tails, from the path 
 to the Gries Glacier; it then ascends the Valle Toggia, at tirst steep, then 
 1 hr. through a grassy valley, enclosed by huge clills, where the whistle 
 of the marmot is constantly heard. 'HUe. Fisrh-Hee, abounding in trout, lies 
 to the r. The traveller next reaches the S. Giacomo Pass (7572'), the 
 boundary between Switzerland (Canton of Ticino) and Italy, 3'|2 hrs. from 
 the Falls of the Tosa. Below the pass on the X. side, stands the Chapel of 
 S. Giacomo (7c56U'), vv'here the inhabitants of the valleys annually assemble 
 for worship on July "ioth. The path descends through a luxuriant growth 
 of rhododendrons; the N'al Bedretto and tlie (1 iir.) Hoapice air Acqua are 
 next reached. Hence to Airolo see p. 139. 
 
 Below the Tosa Falls, the Val Formazza, or Pommat, com- 
 mences, with the villages {J/o hr.J Fruthwald (in Canischa), Gurf 
 (in Grovello), Zumstey (al Pont), with the town-hall and ar- 
 chives of the valley , (1 hr.) Andermatten (4U«8'J (*liossel), Ital. 
 alia Chiesa , with the church ol tlie \ alley, tlien Sla/felwald (S,
 
 144 Route 35. PREMIA. 
 
 Micliele), and finally L'ntersttdd (Foppiano), 3'/2 ^I- fi'om Antler- 
 matteu, where German is still spoken; farther on Italian only. 
 Most of the villages have German , as •well as Italian names. 
 
 From the Val Formazza by the Albrun Pass to Lax or 
 Viesch in the Valais, see p. 140. 
 
 The papsape from theValFormazza to theValMaggia (p. 370) 
 is very fatiguing, with hardly commensurate attraction (from Andermatten 
 to Cevio 8 hrs., not without guide): from Staffelwahl a steep ascent of 
 3 hr.*;. to the Criner Furca (7631', beautiful view), descent in 11(2 hr. to 
 Bosco (4931')- also called Crin or Gurin (Inn), the only German village in 
 the Canton of Tessin. From Bosco to Cevio 31J2 hrs. — Bignasco (-Post), 
 lies 1 hr. to the X. of Cevio in a magnificent situaticm. Diligence from 
 Bignasco to Locarno once daily in 3V4 hrs.. fare 2 fr. 90 c. 
 
 The Defile of Foppiano Is imposing. The influence of the 
 Italian air now gradually becomes perceptible. The soil is richly 
 cultivated, and the vegetation betokens the genial climate of the 
 south. Chestnuts . figs , and vines flourish luxuriantly. Near 
 Premia is an open chapel with old frescoes. The mica-slate rocks 
 between S. Michele and Premia ('2621'^ (*Aynello, R. 1, B. 1, D. 
 Incl. W. 4 fr. ; carr. to Doma d'Ossola 10, to Vogogna 20 fr.), 
 101/2 M. from Andermatten, 6 M. from Crodo, are interspersed with 
 red garnets. Below this point the valley of the Tosa is termed 
 Val Antiyorio, one of the most beautiful among the S. Alps, and 
 graced by numerous waterfalls. Road good. (From Premia to 
 Viesch by the Kriegalp Pass, see p. 141.) 
 
 The Italian custom-house is at Crodo (Leone d'Oro). The neigh- 
 bouring baths are of little importance. The road rejoins the Sim- 
 plon route 41/2 M- below Crodo . by the lofty bridge of Crevola^ 
 at the mouth of the Val di Vedro, near the union of the Diveria 
 with the Tosa. (3 M.) Domo d'Ossola, see p. 261. 
 
 36. From Thun to Leuk and Susten over the Gemini. 
 
 Conip. Majis., pp. 6'6'. lib'. 
 
 51 M. Diligence every morning 3 hrs. from Thun to (15 3L) Frutigen, 
 returning from Frutigen in 2iJ2 hrs. One-horse carr. from Thun to Wimmis 
 or Spiez 7 fr. — By water to Spiez , see p. 103 ; from Spiez to Frutigen 
 101)2 M. 
 
 The Gemmi is one of the most remarkable of the Alpine passes, less 
 from its picturesqueness than its imposing grandeur. There is a good 
 carriage-road as far as Kandersteg (22'(2 M.); thence over the Gemmi to 
 the Baths of Leuk (6 hrs.) a good bridle-path (guide unnecessary) ; from 
 the Baths of Leuk a good road (7iJ2 M.) descends to the Rhone valley. 
 
 The first part of the road skirts the Lake of Thun (1824'); 
 by the slender tower of (83/4 M.) Strattlingen (2218'), before 
 which the road to the Simmentlial (p. 152) diverges to the r., 
 the Kander is crossed by a lofty bridge. The Kander formerly 
 flowed past the W. side of Strattlingen, joining the Aare below 
 Thun , where its deposits of detritus and rubble soon converted 
 the once fruitful land into a swamp. A canal (3100' long, 288' 
 broad), intersecting the hill of Strattlingen, and now resembling 
 a natural chanjiel, was therefore constructed in 1712 — 14, in
 
 FRUTIGEN. m. Route. 145 
 
 or<ler to conduct the water direct to the lake. The detritus, how- 
 ever, continues to be deposited as formerly at the mouth of the 
 river, and has formed a delta which annually increases. 
 
 To the 1., on the lake, rises the castle of Spiez (p. 103). 
 Opposite Spiezwyler , through which the road lead?, on a height 
 near the entrance of the Simmenthal , the castle of Wimmis is 
 seen at the N. base of the Xiesen (p. 102). The conical Stock- 
 horn (p. 103) stands forth prominently from among the opposite 
 mountains on the 1. bank of the Slmmen. 
 
 Near Miihlenen ('2218'), or Mulinen (*Bar, R. iy.,- B. ll.j, 
 S. 2^2 *r-i Ziim Niesen ; several Pensions), the road crosses tlic 
 Suldbach. whence the Mesen is visible from the base to the 
 summit. At the E. base of the mountain lies the Heustrich-Bad 
 (omnibus to Thun) . the waters of which resemble those of 
 Woissenburg (p. 153). Good bridle-path hence to the Niesen 
 (p. 102). 
 
 F r () ni 51 ii h 1 n c n t o I n t e r 1 a k e n . 13 M.. a charming walk. Beyond 
 Jliihlcncn the road ascends to the r. . traversing the hilly district whidi 
 separates the valley of the Kander from the Lake of Thun. 2'(4 M. 
 A esc hi (2877') {Bar, carriages to he had), a village on the heipiit, 
 commanding an extensive view of the lake ; the road then gradually de- 
 scends to (0 31.) Leissigen ( S(ei»bo<-k) , situated on the lake, and" then 
 skirts the lake as far as (2 M.) Darligen (Hirach), 1^|4 31. beyond which 
 a fingcr-po^it indicates the road (1.) to Untersecn and Interlaken (2 M.), whilst 
 that in a straight direction leads to Lauterbrunnen. The latter passes the 
 Klcine Rugen(\). 106). the Fenxion Jungfraiiblick , and (2 31.) Mattin 
 (p. 104). where the Jungfrau suddenly appears in all its beauty and grandeur. 
 Here tlie road unites with the Interlaken and Lauterbrunnen road. 
 
 The Gemmi route leaves the picturesque village of Beichen- 
 bach at the entrance of the Kienthal (p. 113) to the 1. (magni- 
 ficent view of the Bliimlisalp to the 1.). crosses the Kander, and, 
 47-> M- from Miihlenen. reaches 
 
 "15 M. Frutigen (2267') {Adler; Hotel de I'Helvetie; in 
 both R. IV2 — -• ^- IV2: A. 1/2 fr. ; Pension Bellerue, similar 
 charges), a market-town situated in a fertile district, on the 
 Emjstligenbach. which below the village unites with the Kander. 
 Beautiful view, especially from the church, of the Kanderthal. 
 the Balmhorn . Bliimlisalp, and Altels , and of the Ralligstocke 
 (p. 104) in the opposite direction. — Bridle-path to the Niesen, 
 see p. 102. 
 
 Tlie valley here divides : the S. arm, through which the Kander flows, 
 leads to the G-emmi, the S.W. into the narrow mountain valley of Adl- 
 boden , the road to which at first follows the road to Kandersteg. cros,«es 
 the Enfjstligenbach y and then ('/u M) turns to the r. After a steep a.scent 
 on the r. bank of the brook. Adelboden (4452') (rustic inn by the church) 
 is reached in \^\-i hrs. In the background of tlie valley is a beautiful fall 
 of the Engstligen. above it the Wildstrubel. to the 1. the Lohner. From 
 Adelboden an occasionally marshy path leads over the Hahuenmoos (near 
 the hig'iest point. 6221'." a chalet") in 3' •.• hrs. to Lenk (p. 151). During 
 the descent a beautiful view is obtained of the valley of Lenk , the Wild- 
 strubel, and Riizli fHacier. 
 
 From Adelboden an interesting pass leads E. over the Almemjral , "i- 
 Bonder C/iriniie, in 5 — 6 hrs. to Kandersteg. Guide desirable. 
 
 BiiiPKKEK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. IQ
 
 146 Route 30, KA-VDKRSTEG. FrOw Tkun 
 
 Over the Siruheleckjoch to Sierre (p. 255) 12—13 hrs., a difficult glacier- 
 pass, for experienced mountaineers only, with good guides. 
 
 At Frutigen the road crosses the Eiigstligeiibarh. then the 
 Kauder, near the picturesque TeUenburi; (now a poor-housej. and 
 ascends on the r. bank; -74 hr.. to the r. (on the 1. bank of the 
 Kander) the pleasant-looking church and parsonage of Kander- 
 yrund; 74 hr. farther Bunderbach (new Inn). Walk of '20 niin. 
 hence to the *'BLue Luke , remarkable for its deep blue colour 
 and picturesque situation , surrounded by pines and beeches. 
 (Afternoon light most favourable ; not worth visiting on dull days, j 
 Near Mittelholz (Hotel Altels, new J the square tower of the 
 Felsenhury is passed. 
 
 71/.7 M. Kandersteg (3839'j. Hotel victoria , at the N. end of 
 the village; Bar, V-' ^I- larfher, R. 2'|2, L. 112, B. l',2, A. 1 fr. ; H6tel 
 ti-emmi, new, well spoken of, R. and A. 2iJ2 fr. — Ouide (unnecessary) 
 to Schwarenbach (3, descent 2 hrs.) 3 fr. ; to the Daube (summit of the pass, 
 1, descent Sj^ hr.) 3i|2 fr. ; to the Baths of Leuk (1, ascent 2i,2 hrs.) 6 fr. ; 
 horse to Schwarenbach 8, to the Daube lU. to the Baths of Leuk 15 fr., if the 
 departure is before lU o'clock ; if at a later hour , 20 fr. A horse should 
 be taken to Schwarenbach only, or, at farthest, to the Daube, beyond 
 which the abruptness of the descent renders riding unpleasant. Carriage 
 to Frutigen, one-hor.se 7, two-horse 14 fr. : Thun, one-horse 17, two-horse 
 3i fr. ; Interlaken, one-horse 25, two-horse 45 fr. ; for the ascent from Fru- 
 tigen to Kandersteg 2 fr. more are demanded. 
 
 A magnittcent panorama of mountain-scenery is here enjoyed : 
 to the N.E. the jagged Birrenhorn: to the E. the glistening 
 snow-mantle of the Bliiudisalp or Weisse Frau, the magnificent 
 Doldenhorn, and the barren Fisistocke ; to the S.W., between the 
 Ueschinenthal and Gasternthal, the lofty Gellihorn. Opposite the 
 Victoria Hotel, on the W. side of the valley, is an ancient mo- 
 raine, probably formed by the Bliimlisalp Glacier, now about 
 3 M. distant, but which once entirely filled the upper portion 
 of the valley. 
 
 To the E. is the Oeschinen-Thal , a valley well worthy of a visit, 
 about li|2 hr. walk (guide l'i2 fr. , unnecessary; the traveller follows the 
 road on the r. bank of the Oeschinenbach ; horse 6 fr.). It is terminated 
 by the Oesch in en-See (521U'), 1 M. in length, ij2 M. in breadth;, and 
 enclosed by precipitous rocks , over which waterfalls are precipitated into 
 the lake. Lofty mountains tower above the lake , the Weisse Frau , or 
 Bliimlisalp (12,U41') , and the Fretmd/ioni and Doldenhorn (11,965'), both 
 ascended for the first time in 1862 by Dr. Roth and 3L v. Fellenberg (see 
 Dr. Roth's interesting description of the expedition : -Doldenhorn and 
 \Veisse Frau"). A footpath leads hence over the Diiudengrat into the Kien- 
 Ihal, over the Furgge into the Sefinenthal , and to Lauterbrunnen (p. 110). 
 
 From Kandersteg b>- the Lcitschenpass to Tourtemagne 
 (.in the Valais), see R. 62. 
 
 From Kandersteg over the Tschingel (Kander) Glacier to 
 Lauterbrunnen, a most interesting expedition of 15 hrs. incl. halts 
 (7 hrs. on the ice), for practised mountaineers only; experienced guides 
 necessary (at Selden the brothers Kuenzi, at Lauterbrunnen Chr. and Ulrich 
 Lauener). The previous night may , if necessary , be spent at Selden (bed 
 of hay), or at Trachsellauinen (p. 112). From VZ hrs.) Selden in 3,4 hr. to 
 the Alpetli Glacier^ the W. arm of the Kander Glacier. Then a fatiguing 
 walk of 2 hrs. over the lateral moraine on the S. margin of the glacier; 
 finally an ascent, skirting precipitous slopes, to the Kander Glacier, properly 
 so called, an interminable expanse of snow and ice , from which on the I.
 
 to Leak. GEMMI. 30. Route. 147 
 
 the abrupt rocky walls of the liliimlisalp (12,041') rise. Then a gentle 
 ascent of I'j-.' hr. to the base of the Mutthorn (99580, ^nd between the latter 
 (r.) and the Oamchiliicke (1.) in 2 hrs. more to the Tschingeltritt, a precipice 
 20J(i' high, skirting which the route descends across the Lower Tschingel 
 Glacier ('|2 hr.) to the ('|2 hr.) Steinberg Alp (p. 113). Thence a direct 
 footpath to Miirren (2'|2 hrs.), uniting near the fall of the Sehne (p. 112) 
 with the hi-oader path from Stechelberg and Crimiuelwald to Murren. 
 
 The road beyond Kanderriteg continues as broad as before 
 till it arrives at the (1 1/2 M-j bridge, beyond which it contracts, 
 but still cannot be mistaken. At the base of the mountain is 
 the Bar inn (see abovej. The ascent soon begins; to the r. is 
 the brook wliich issues from the Ueschinenthal, with some incon- 
 siderable falls; 10 min., a sign-post -to Wallis", where the path 
 to the 1., not that in a straight direction, must be taken; '/o hr., 
 a pure spring on the 1. The path winds upwards beneath the 
 Geilihorn . by a mountain slope which apparently terminates the 
 valley. The path, here lately reconstructed, now ascends to the 1., 
 quitting the old track, which winds upwards in a straight direction, 
 at the tir-wood beyond a clearing; it leads through a pine-forest 
 at a great elevation, conmianding a tine view of the Gastemtlial 
 {j>. '25'2j to the 1., and the mountains which enclose it. When 
 the path reaches the level pastures, it re-unites with the old track, 
 and traverses the Wintereymatt (^(3o9('J. Then, '27^ i^rs. from 
 Kandersteg, the chalets of SpUalmatt (b'230'3, '^'^ Spittelmatt, are 
 seen to the r. To the E.. between the snowy ALtels (li,92o') 
 and the black, rocky peak of the Kieine Rinderhom (^987G'j 
 (to the S. is the snowy cone of the Grosse Rinderhom. 11,372'J, 
 lies embedded the Scliwarze or Sayi Glacier, commanded on the 
 E. by the Balmliorn {see below). The glacier is drained by jhe 
 Schicarzbuch , or the Spittelmatt Data. Then over a stony wil- 
 derness, the scene of a landslip. 
 
 The Balmhorn (12,100'), the loftiest peak of the Altels group, may 
 be ascendi.'d lience without danger in 5 — b hrs. (guide necessary). The 
 magniticent panorama from the summit comprises the entire range of* the 
 Alps of Bern and the Valais. and extends to X. Switzerland. 
 
 The inn of Schwarenbach (6778') is next reached (from 
 Kandersteg 3, hence to the Baths of Leak 2'/4 hrs.). 
 
 After Yl ^^- the path skirts the muddy Daubensee (7238') 
 (1 M. in length, iO to 20' deep), formed by the waters of the 
 Lammeren Glacier (see below), with no visible outlet, and 
 generally frozen for seven mouths in the year. 
 
 The new and well-constructed path leads on the E. bank of 
 the lake, at a considerable height above it, to (10 min.) the 
 summit of the pass , termed the Daube (7553') , or Gemmi, 
 situated immediately beneath the Daubenliorn (9449'), the 
 barren limestone- rocks of which rise abruptly to the r. A 
 magnificent *view of part of the Rhone Valley and the Alps of 
 the \alais is obtained from a slight eminence a few minutes' 
 walk from the pass, to the I. of the path. The lofty firoup of 
 mountains to the extreme 1. are the Mischabelh«)rner ; farther to 
 
 10*
 
 148 Route 36. BATHS OF LEUK. From Than 
 
 the r. rises the mighty Weisshorn . then the Bruiicckhorn, the 
 pyramid of the Matterhorn , and still more to the r. the Dent 
 Blanche. At a giddy depth below, the traveller perceives the 
 Baths of Leuk, and beyond them Inden fp. 149). To the W. 
 rise the moraines of the Lcimmeren Glacier, extending nearly to 
 the pass ; above the glacier a glistening snow-peak , and near it 
 the huge rocks of the Wildstrubel (10.715'). Rare flora. 
 
 About 5 min. below the pass is a stone hut for the protec- 
 tion of the sheep in bad weather, on the brink of an abrupt 
 abyss. On the face of an almost perpendicular rock. 1800' in 
 height, the Cantons of Bern and Yalais constructed this path, in 
 1736- — 41, one of the most remarkable of Alpine routes, from 
 this point to Leuk 10.784' in length. The windings are skilfully 
 hewn in the rock, and occasionally resemble a spiral staircase, 
 the upper parts in some places actually projecting beyond the 
 lower. The most precipitous portions are protected by parapets. 
 Although the path appears so unprotected when seen from 
 below, the ascent is really unattended with danger; even those 
 unaccustomed to such giddy heights may safely ascend (2 hrs.) 
 and even descend (^^'4 hr. to the base of the precipice. ^4 ^^■ 
 more to the Baths), but it is prudent to be accompanied by a 
 guide. The descent on horseback should be avoided. In 1861 
 a Comtesse dHerlincourt fell from her saddle over the precipice 
 and was killed on the spot. Invalids who come from the N. to 
 visit the Baths, and are desirous of avoiding the long circuit by 
 Freiburg. Yevay , and Martigny , may be conveyed over the 
 Gemmi in a litter. The regulations require 4 bearers to attend each 
 litter; for a person of more than usual weight. 6; and for a 
 ^poids extraordinaire'. 8. The openings in the enclosures of the 
 meadows at the S. base of the Gemmi are employed to facilitate 
 the counting of the sheep. 
 
 The Baths of Leuk (4642'), or Loeche-les-Bains. Hotel 
 des Alpes, commanding a beautiful view, is also the post-office (the 
 diligence, also stops at the Hotel de France); *Bellevue; opposite to 
 it, Grand Baini "Hotel de France; all very similar, pension in each 
 6 fr. ; for casual visitors R. I1J2 to 2, B. 11)2, table dliote at 11 and 
 6 o'clock 4, A. 1)2 fr. ; *U n i o n , pension 5 fr. ; ''H o t e 1 B r u n n e r (comfor- 
 table) , similar charges ; Croix Federale. unpretending ; M a i s n 
 Blanche. — Telegraph Office open during the season. — Hor.^e to Kan- 
 dersteg 15, Schwarenbach 6, Daube 5 fr. ; Porter to Kandersteg 6, 
 Schwarenbach 4, Daube 3, foot of the Gemmi 2 fr. — Post Omnibus 
 from July to Sept. 15th (twice daily) from the Baths to Leuk, Susten 
 (5 fr. . coupe' 6ij2 fr.), and Sierre (8 "fr. . coupe 10 fr.) , descending in 51(2, 
 ascending in 7 hrs. (8fr. , coupe 10 fr.). Also private omnibuses of the 
 Hotels des^Alpes and Brunner. — One-horse carriage to Susten 10, Sierre 
 16, Sion 25, Vispach 22, Brieg 30 fr. ; two-horse carr. abotit one-third more. 
 
 Loeche-les-Bains. a small village consisting chiefly of wooden 
 houses, with 550 (Rom. Cath.) inhab. . situated amidst green 
 pastures in a mountain vallev only open to the 8.. and watered 
 by the Dala. lies 2910' below the Daube (Gemmi). and 2590'
 
 to Leiik. TORHENTHORN. :it!. Route. 149 
 
 above the Rhone. Jii July and August the Baths are much fre- 
 i|uente(i. especially by French. Swiss and Italians. Many of the 
 hotels, and even some of the houses, are open only from the 
 beginning of June to the end of Sept. ; the Hotel de France and 
 lirunner, however, remain open till December. The strong em- 
 bankment to the E. serves as a protection against avalanches. 
 Even in the height of summer the sun is not visible after 5 p. m. 
 i5y moonlight the huge, perpendicular wall of the Gemmi pre- 
 sents a weird aspect. 
 
 The Springs, 22 in number, ri.se in and near the village, and are so 
 abundant that nine-thenths ot the water tlow unused into the Z>a;a. They vary 
 in strength and temperature (93— 123"), the Lorenz Spring being the most 
 powerful. In order to avoid the tedium of a long and solitary immersion, 
 the patients sit up to their necks in water in a common bath, clothed in 
 long tlannel dresses, and thus remain IVn- several hours together. Every 
 bather has a small floating table before him, from which his book, 
 newspaper, or collee is enjoyed ; reading and conversation go on as in an 
 ordinary room, and as the patients come from all parts of Europe, the 
 Habel of tongues can be more easily imagined than described. The utmost 
 order and decorum are preserved. " Travellers are admitted to view this 
 singular and somewhat uninviting spectacle. The sutlering frame will 
 undergo much in the pursuit of health, otherwise the Baths of Leuk would 
 soon be deserted. — The old bath-house, opposite to the new, contains 
 baths only 2ij4 ft. in depth, now used by tlie poorer classes. All the 
 baths are open from 4 to lU a. m.. and from 2 to 5 p. m. 
 
 Excursions. A walk, partially shaded, leads from the promenade 
 (beautiful view of the r. bank of the Dala) to the foot of a lofty precipice 
 (I'ia lir.) on the 1. bank of the Dala. The traveller then ascends by S 
 rude Ladders (.echelles), attached to the perpendicular face of the rock, 
 to the path at tiie summit, which conducts him in 1 hr. to the village of 
 Albinen, or Arbiynou (4252'). Those whose heads are to be mistrusted 
 should forego this undertaking ; the more adventurous will be sufliciently 
 repaid by the beautiful view from the second ladder. The descent is 
 more difficult than the ascent. 
 
 Other excursions are: to the P'all of the Dala, i|2 hr., Dala Glacier 
 (with guide), 2^\-> hrs., Torrent-Alp, l'|a hr. The 'Torrenthorn (9670') 
 commands a magnificent prospect of the snow-mountains and glaciers of 
 the Bernese Oberland, and of the entire chain of the Pennine Alps from 
 Monte Rosa to Mont Blanc; the a.scent may be accomplished in 3—4 hrs.; 
 the traveller can ride to the summit (horse 8 fr. ; fee 1 fr.). Guide not 
 necessary, but agreeable (boy from the village 3— '4 fr.). Travellers 
 desirous of avoiding the same route for the descent , may cross the 
 Maing- Glacier (guide indispensable). Those who come from the Rhone 
 Valley, and wish to visit Albinen and the Torrenthorn, etVect a consi- 
 derable saving by proceeding direct from the village of Leuk (see below) 
 to All)inen ; thence with guide by Chermignon to the Torrenthorn, descend- 
 ing to the Baths of Leuk. The Galmhoni (8081'), near Chermignon, is 
 also frequently ascended. 
 
 The carriage-road to Leuk and the Rhone valley, one of the 
 most interesting amongst the Alps, crosses the Dala immediately 
 below the Baths, and, skirting the r. bank at a great elevation, 
 descends to (4 M.) Inden (^o858'j (*lnn)\ after a short distance 
 it recrosses to the I. bank of the Dala, and commands a series 
 of magniftcent views of the Dala ravine, the opposite moimtains, 
 and the little village of Alhinen. The traveller may avail him- 
 self of the old bridle-path from Inden to the vicinity of tlie 
 Dala-bridge, which is •,/.> hr. shorter.
 
 150 Route 36. LEUK. 
 
 The B ridle-pa th to Sierre, for pedestrians proceefiini; to Sion 
 and Martigny, quits the road to tlie r.. hy a slate quarry, 8 min. before 
 reaching the last-mentioned bridge, and skirts the brink of a precipice on 
 the r. bank of the Dala. In 12 min. a small tunnel is reached, and in 2 
 min. more a second. Above the dirty, but picturesquely situated (3|4 hr.) 
 village of Varen (2388), at the extreme brink of the j-avine. where it 
 forms a right angle with the valley of the Ehone, a striking view is ob- 
 tained of this valley, 45 M. in length, from Vispach to Martigny ; also of 
 the singular-looking Forest of Pfyn, and the huge yellow crater of the 111- 
 graben on the opposite mountains. Then , in 1)4 hr. more, to Salgesch 
 (2016'). 3(4 hr. and Sierre, see p. 255 •, from Inden (see above) to Sierre 2'|2 
 hrs. (Di'iving is, however, preferable to walking, efipecially in the reverse 
 direction.) 
 
 The carriage -road to Leiik at the month of the Dala ravine 
 still remains high above the Rhone Valley. A beautiful view of 
 the Rhone Valley as far as Martigny is here disclosed. The de- 
 scent is highly attractive. The old bridle-path to the 1. of the 
 custom-house at Inden. which rejoins the high-road near the 
 bridge, and. beyond the bridge, a path descending to the r. to Leuk, 
 are short-cuts. Distance from the Baths to the Rhone-bridge 8 M. 
 
 Leuk, or Loeche-Ville (2608'! (Couronne), is a market-town 
 (pop. 12*20), situated on a height, and commanded by a pictu- 
 resque old castle. Here, IV4 M. from the Rhone, the wine-dis- 
 trict commences. The high-road (p. 255) leads through the little 
 village of Susten (*Hotel de la Souste). situated on the opposite 
 bank of the Rhone (2051'). 
 
 The dusty high-road in the Rhone Valley (p. 255), which 
 averages 3 M. in breadth, and is frequently rendered marshy by 
 inundations, forms, an unpleasing contrast to the magnificent 
 route over the Gemmi and through the valley of the Dala, and 
 is of course unsuitable for pedestrians. Diligence twice a day in 
 the Rhone Valley between Sierre and Rrieg (R. 63). Onehorse 
 carr. from Susten to Vispach 8. to the Baths of Leuk 15 fr. 
 
 37. From Thun to Sion. Grimmi. Rawyl. 
 
 Coinp. Map., p. 14:6. 
 
 63 31. From Lenk to Sion (10ii-_. hrs.) a new bridle-path . tolerably 
 good on the Bern side, but somewhat rugged on the side of the .Valais. 
 A very interesting route. Guide not absolutelj' necessary. 
 
 The best means of reaching Lenk is by the Thun and Ges- 
 seney diligence as far as Zweisimmen fin h^'-i hrs., fare 5 fr. 55 c.) 
 (see p. 152). whence a good road (diligence once daily in 13/^, 
 returning in li/o hr.) ascending the Upper Simmenthal leads by 
 r3 M.) St. Stephan (Falke), (3 M.) Matten to (3 M.) Lenk, the 
 starting-point for the passage of the Rawyl. 
 
 Another route, a foot-path, now little frequented, leaves the post- 
 road near Latterbach (p. 153). crosses the Shnrue?/, then the Chirel, which 
 tlows through the valley of Die/iitige?!, and leads to (3|4 hr.)Diemtigen(/^«7-.<;r/0. 
 On the E. bank rise the ruirni of the castle oi Grhimienstein. ot Ha.^enhurg. Xear 
 (2 hrs.) Narrenbach (3829'1 the smiling vallev of Mdnnigrintd opens t<i 
 the r. ; (3|4 hr.) Thiermatten (3829'l. with a village inn. faces theSchurtentluh, 
 or Schorritluh •, ij4 hr. farther the valley divides:, the E. part is called the
 
 HAWYL. :i7. Route. 151 
 
 Sc/iwenUtitt/ial . t\i>- ^^.. vvhi( h is miu foUtivvrd. is a continual ascent as 
 far as the (2 lirs.) Grimmi (7156'). a iut:t:ed pass, .seldom traversed, and 
 almost entirely rle.stitnte of view; tli.- path then descend.s through the 
 fertile valley of Fennel to ("2 hrs.) Matten, a village in the Upper Simmen- 
 thal. on the Zweisininicn road to (33(4 M.) Lenk. 
 
 Lenk (35'27') (Krone, pension .Si/o to 5 fr. ; Bar; Stern) is 
 • onipletely surrounded by lofty mountains and glaciers. About 
 Vo M. from the village, at the base of tin- Hohliebe, is situ- 
 at'ed the *Lenk Sanitartf Estab. (R. '2. A. V-2' I- Vo. ^- 1 ^r.), 
 sulphur -baths, recently fitted up. The majestic WiichtritbeL 
 (10. '272'). the snows and jilaciers of which cover a loiifr ridjre 
 of prey rocks, and are the source of numerous brooks, presents 
 a very imposinjr aspect. 
 
 Frr)m Lenk to Gsteig 6'|-' hi's. : in 4'|a hr.s. W. by the TriitUis- 
 h,r<j to Lauenvn (4134') ( 'Biir, rustic inn, j>ension 3>j-.' fr.); thence by 
 the Chriiineii (5430') in '2i|.j hr.s. to Gfteig (p. 155); some part.s of the route 
 verv attractive, .see R. 39. 
 
 "From Lenk to f4 e s s e n e y (p. 154) X^■^ lirs.. foot-path. cr4)s,sing the 
 Riiilhcnbi'rfj or the Xicifzer A'j/£/" iift^'^'wards through the Tiirbacfi Valley. 
 
 The Siinmen takes its rise 6 M. to the S. of Lenk, near the glacier of 
 Ua/,1). An e.vcursion (4 lirs. there and back) to its source, termed the. 
 ' .Siebtii liiunnen (Seven Fountains. 4770': guide unnecessary I. will 
 well it'pav the pedestrian. He may in 2 lirs. reach the chalet (milk. 
 colVee. etc.) to the rear of the IlhUbero (0138'). which here intercepts 
 the view of the vallev. To the S. is seen the precipitous RazU-Ctlacier, 
 at the foot of which, a'lmost at the bottom of the valley. 10 min. from the 
 flialet. are situated the so-called f^even Fomitaiii.", which in point of fact 
 are cmly one, springing from the rock: more to the 1. is the \ipper /•'«// o/ 
 the Siinmen. To the r. of the glacier rise the Laiifbodenhovn (8901') and 
 the Gletscherhorn (9629'): above- the Seven J'ountains. the sharp peak of 
 the See/iori) : to the 1. above the upper fall, the Amniertenhorn (8727') (the 
 W'ildstrubel behind it is only visible from a lower point of the valley). 
 Tiie experienced pedestrian may ascend the summit of the Wildstrubel 
 with two guides from the chalet in 5 hrs. 
 
 From Lenk to Sion lO'/o l»rs- The road, at first practicable 
 for carriages, passes the parsonage-house, and leads to the valley 
 of the Iffhienhach, and. on the 1. bank of the brook, to the (I'Z-i lir.") 
 imposing Fall of the Iffigenbach , the spray of which rises like 
 a cloud of dust almost to the point from which it is precipitated. 
 For 1/4 hr. the road mounts the rock above the fall, and in 
 V4 hr. more leads to the chalets of Iffigen (6841') (rustic inn), 
 situated in a basin resembling that of the Baths of Leuk. 
 
 Leaving Iffigen , the road leads for a short distance through 
 a small wood, ascending a stony slope (where it cannot be miss- 
 ed), and finally terminating in a path cut in the side of a per- 
 pendicular rock. The ascent (1=V4 ^^-^ *" *''^ summit of the 
 pass . whence a beautiful view is enjoyed over Lenk and the 
 mountains of the -Sinuuenthal. is unatti-nded with danger. Below 
 the pass is a luit for shelter, where wood luay be found for 
 making a fire. To the W. of the little Lake of Eawyl ( V4 hr.1 
 a cross, indicating the boundary of Bern and Valais . and at the 
 same time the highest point of the Rawyl (74'2S'). is attained. 
 The path now traverses the most picturesque scenery . and in
 
 152 Route 3S. AYENT. 
 
 3/4 hr. the verge of the S. declivity is readied; to the N.W. is 
 the long ridge of the Mittaghorn (8842'); to the W. tlie Schneide- 
 /tor7i (9652'J; to the S.W. the Wildhorn, completely covered with 
 glaciers and snow [i0.722'J, and the broad Rawyihorn (9541 'J; 
 to the 8.E. the Wetzstelnhorn (9134'); to the E. the Rohrbuch- 
 stein (9626' ) (ascent from the Rawyl pass in 2 hrs. . extensive 
 view, from Monte Leone to the MatterhornJ; to the N.E. the 
 extremities of the glaciers of the WeissJiorn (^9882'), a wild and 
 savage scene, of the same character as the Gemmi, hut with more 
 variety. A second small lake, often nearly dry, is passed before 
 the path reaches the S. slopes, \\hich command a magniticent view 
 of the valley and the mountains of the Valais. especially tlie Matter- 
 horn and its W. neighbours. 
 
 The descent is now made by a zigzag path along the preci- 
 pitous white rocks, to the dirty chalets of (1 hr.) Nieder-Rawyl, 
 Fr. les Ravins; the path continues to the r. on the slope of the 
 mountain, as far as a spring [^/.) hr.), shortly before which a 
 bridle-path diverges to the r. , ascending the opposite height in 
 the direction of Ayent (3 hrs.) (accommodation and excellent 
 Valais wine at the cure's). 
 
 The footpath, shorter by 1 hr., by the so-called ^ Kdndlt {= channel) 
 is only practicable for travellers thoroughly accustomed to such giddy 
 altitudes. In order to convey water to the opposite side of the mountain, 
 a channel has been cut in the rock at the height of 13UU', overhanging 
 the precipice, and generally not exceeding 1' in width, which also serves 
 as a path. At (me place, the water is conveyed across the abyss by a 
 wooden pipe, and a single plank is the only means of crossing it. This 
 path perhaps presents more apparent than actual dangers, but it is not 
 easy to divest the mind of all apprehension whilst traversing it. In 
 3|4 hr. the bridle-path is rejoined. From this point to Ayent the track is 
 broad and easy. 
 
 From Ayent in 2 hrs. by Grimisuat, Ger. G''rimsein^(2720'), 
 to Sion (1732'), see p. 254. 
 
 38. From Thun to Gesseney by the Simmenthal. 
 
 34ij.i M. Diligence once daily direct in S'l-i hrs., and once daily 
 spending the night at Zweisimmen. 
 
 From the Bernese Ober land to the Lake of Geneva the 
 following beautiful route is strongly recommended to pedestrians (27 hrs. 
 from Interlaken to Aigle 5 the whole journey may be performed on horse- 
 back ; guides superfluous, except between Adelboden and Lauenen). Four 
 moderate days' walk : 1st day. From Thun or Interlaken by carriage 
 to Frutigen [or by the first steamboat to Spiez (p. l(.'3j, and on foot in 
 3'('j hrs. to Frutigen (see p. 14o)] ; thence on foot in 4M2 hrs. to Adelboden 
 (p. 145). — 2nd. On foot in 3 hrs. over the Hahnenmoos (p. 145) to Lenk 
 (p. 151), and excursion (of 5 hrs.) to the Seven Fountains (p. 151). 
 3rd. On foot in 71J2 hrs. over the Triittlisberg and the Chrinnen (p. 151) 
 to Gsteig (p. 155). — 4th. On foot in 8 hrs. over the Col de Pillon (p. 155) 
 (or by carriage from the Hotel des Diablerets or from Sepey) to Aigle 
 (p. 2U0), whence the traveller may proceed by railway to the Lake of 
 Geneva, or to Jlartigny, or Sion in the valley of the Rhone. 
 
 The road traverses a fertile valley (p. 145) as far as Gwatt, 
 ascending thence in the direction of the Niesen . and affording a
 
 WK18SENHUKG. .M'. Route 153 
 
 beautiful view of tlie Stockhoni on the r. and tiie Fiernese Alps 
 on the 1. ; the valley is watered by the h'ander. 
 
 The diligence makes a short halt at the village (G'/o M. ) 
 of Brothausi f'^Hirndi) , the picturesque old castle near which, 
 rising on a mountain slope, is now occupied by the authorities of 
 the district. ( Wiinmis and the Niesen, see p. 101. J The road then 
 passes through a defile into the Simmenthal ^ a rich and fruitful 
 valley, studded with numerous villages, and carpeted with well- 
 cultivated gardens and pastures extending to the summits of the 
 mountains, which are partially crowned with forests. The channel 
 (if the Simmen lies far below. 
 
 Near (81/4 M.J Latterbach the valley of Diemtigen opens, 
 see p. 150. ('21/4 M. ) Erlenbach (;24'28'j (*Krone. H. 1, B. l'/4 
 fr. ; Lowe, K. 1 fr. ), with well constructed wooden houses, is the 
 usual starting-point for the ascent (S'/i hrs.) of the Stockhorn 
 (p. 145); descent by the Wahlalp , Buntschi , and the Baths of 
 Weissenburg. which are reached on this side by means of ladders. 
 A short distance farther, the road passes through 
 
 Weissenburg ('2418'J (*Post) , containing a few houses only. 
 Beyond, in a gorge seldom penetrated by the rays of the sun, 
 '2 M. to the N.W. , are the much frequented Sulphur -Baths of 
 Weissenburg ('2940'), or Buntschi (8'2^ Fahr.J. Bath-house at the 
 entrance of the gorge. Room and bath '2 — 3, pension 3 fr. per day. 
 
 Near Boltigen ('278'2'J ('-'Bar), a village of some pretensions, 
 mid-way between Weissenburg and Zweisimmen, two rocks seem 
 to obstruct the passage ; this spot is termed the Simmeneek or 
 Enye. Above the village rise the bald peaks of the Mittaysfluh ,- 
 in 1840 a wood at the foot of this mountain was destroyed by 
 a landslip to the 1. are the snow-tlelds of the Rawyl (p. 151), 
 beyond tlie mountains in the foreground. 
 
 A coal-mine is worked in a side-valley near Reidenbach 
 (3/4 M. from Boltigenj , which accounts for the sign (a miner) 
 of the inn. 
 
 F !• o m K e i d e n b a c h t (I B u 1 1 e Ip. 157) tw(j direct mountain-paths lead 
 in 8 hrs. ; one by the Kltis, the other by tlie Bddernioos. The lirst is some- 
 what rugged, but picturesque ; the second traverses beautiful pasture-lands 
 and pine forests (guide from Boltigen to the top of the Biidermoos 1 fr.). 
 The path unites with that from Abliiiitschen. 3J4 hr. before Jaun is reached. 
 The village of Jaun (3317') (Inn. rustic and unpretending-, cattle-markets 
 (d' some importance are held here), in the Canton of Freiburg, 3 hrs. from 
 Bcdtigen, is situated in a very beautiful district, not far from a picturesque 
 cascade, forming a column of water 8(1' high. A rough path to Char- 
 mey, Oer. Galmers (2',-.. hrs.) (2950'; two good inns), traverses the 
 beautiful VaUeij of Jaun., rich in pastures, where a superior quality of 
 r.ruyere cheese is made (p. 158). Beautiful view near the church. The 
 path ne.xt leads to Crtsiis and C/idtel, and passes the ruins of Moufgalvens 
 (rare plants); then, crossing the Jaun, to Broc ; the Havine is also crossed, 
 and tinally 1 hr. through a forest. — From Cresus a picturesque bridle- 
 path (3'|-2 hrs.) leads by Ceniiat, the ancient monastery of ValKahite, and 
 the Chessalh- Elk (4659 ft.) to the Black Lake (Lac Suir), surrounded by 
 lofty precipices. On the W. bank are the sulphureous Hains de DomHe, 
 recent ly lilted up.
 
 154 Route 3^. CHATEAU D'OEX. 
 
 Tlie high-road crosses tlie Siinmen, and turns abruptly round 
 a prominent rock fthe Laubeckstalden). To the 1. are the ruins 
 of the two castles of Mannenbur;). 
 
 111/4 M. Zweisimmen {3215') (Bar; *Krone, with pension 
 attached, 4 fr. ) , a village at the confluence of the Great and 
 Little Sinimen. The Castle of Blankenburg, a prison, and resi- 
 dence of tlie bailiff, is situated on a neighbouring height (not 
 visible from the road), on the road to Lenk fp. 1511 (^ ^1- 
 distant). 
 
 The road ascends gradually for nearly 6 M. To the 1. runs 
 the Little Simmen, in a valley wooded with pines; five ot six 
 deep ravines are crossed. After an ascent f*Inn) begin the 
 Saanen- Moser (4226'). a broad and beautiful Alpine valley, 
 sprinkled in the direction of Gesseney with innumerable chalets 
 and cottages. A magnificent view is gradually disclosed - of the 
 Rublehorn, or Dent de Chamois (7569'), which serves as a baro- 
 meter to the surrounding country (comp. p. 54), the jagged ridge 
 of the Gumflah ( S068') , beyond it the snow-fields of the San- 
 etsch, and finally, to the 1.. the huge Gelten Glacier (p. 155). 
 
 81/2 M. Gesseney, Ger. Saanen (3356') (*Grand Logis, H. 
 l'/2, L. and A. 1. D. 3fr.: *Ours, unpretending; one-horse carr. 
 to Thun 25 fr.), is the principal place in the valley of the Upper 
 Saane (Sarine), with 3639 inhab. (11 Rom. Cath.), who are ex- 
 clusively occupied in cattle-breeding and in the manufacture of the 
 celebrated Gruytre Cheese. Vadierin , a kind of cream-cheese, 
 is also highly esteemed. A few houses only are built of stone, 
 among them the tower of the prison to the E. The wide brown 
 jackets without sleeves, commonly worn by the men. are quaint; 
 and among the fair sex an unusual number of pretty faces and 
 comely figures may be observed. 
 
 From Gesseney to Gsteiji, and over tlie Sanetsch to 
 Si on, see p. 156. FroniGsteig over the Col de Pillon to Aiglc, 
 see helow. 
 
 From Gesseney to Aigle by Chateau d'Oex (28i|2 M.). Dili- 
 gence twice daily in li|3 hr. from Gesseney by Rovgemont^ Ger. Rotbenbero^ 
 the frontier between the cantons of Bern and Vaud, and between the 
 German and French languages, to (63|4 M.) Chateau d'Oex, Gor. Oesch 
 (3261') (-Hotel Berthod, well situated on a grassy plateau : Ilotel de VOnrs, 
 R. 1>|2, B. li|4 fr. ; Maison de Ville; 'Hotel Rosaz du Midi, in each 4 fr. per 
 day. Ices, also a few private apartments, at Tni-riatfii, opposite Berthod), 
 a scattered village, rebuilt since a conflagration in 1800. The new road 
 hence to Aigle is traversed by a diligence once daily in 6i|3 hrs. The road 
 to Montbovon and Bulle is followed as far as f^j^ M.) Le Pr^ and (3j^ ]\[.) 
 Les Moiiliiis, where the new road diverges to the 1., and ascends the valley 
 of the Toiirueresse (Vallee d'Etiraz) by long windings. (Pedestrians should 
 follow the old road, which diverges at Le Pre, immediately beyond the 
 bridge over the Sarine.) The road runs at a considerable height above 
 the valley, and affords picturesque views of the profound and rocky bed 
 of the brook. At (33)4 M.) Aii-Devant the road emerges from the gorge, 
 and its continuation is visible high up on the mountain to the r. It 
 remains, however, in the valley as far as (2'/) M.j Etiraz (3865'), where it 
 turns and quits the ravine. Pedestrians avoid this long bend of the road 
 by a rugged and stony path descending to the r. at a saw-mill in the
 
 COL DE PILLON. 3'J. Route. 155 
 
 \allpv, and ascending to the road at a point con.sidorablv hifclier. From 
 Etivaz to the top of the hill S'li M.i 3/^ M. farther La Lecherette (4519'): 
 then (I Ma M.) Les Afaxses (inn), whence a magnificent view of the Dent 
 du Midi is enjoyed. The road now descends the valley of the brook La 
 Raveretfe, and next reaches (2'|4 M.) La Coinballaz (4416') f'Lys, pension 
 5 — 8 fr., much frequented for its mineral spring and invi'/orating: mountain 
 air, and a favourite resort of mountaineers ; b<it rooms often not procura- 
 ble unless previfiusly ordered). Keyond this the road commands a fine 
 survey of a very picturesque basin. \\'\i\\ the Diablerets and Oldenhorn 
 in the background. 3 M. Le Sepey {WTtrt'MllotPl desAlpfs: (^erf, new, well 
 situated, pension 4 — 5 fr.): hence to (7 M.) Ai^le, see p. 156. 
 
 39. From Gesseney to Aigle over the Col de Pillon. 
 
 Coiiij). ^fap. p. liij. 
 
 32 Jl. Diligence between Oesseney and (9 31.) Cstei-r. bridle-path 
 thence to (3 hrs.) Orniont - dessus. diligence several times daily between 
 Ormont-dessus and (15 M.) Aigle. — Guide unnecessarv . One-horse carr. 
 from the Hotel des Diablerets to Aigle 15 fr. 
 
 Gesseney. see p. 154. Near (21/4 M- ) Grstaad (Bar) the road 
 ascends to tlie S. into tlie valley of the Sarine . the upper part 
 of wliich bears the name of (istehjthal. At Gstaad the Valley of 
 Lauenen opens to the S.E., 12 M. in length. It i,- one of the most 
 picturesque in the Oberland, abounding in cascades, and small 
 lakes, and terminated by the majinittcent delten GLacier ; the view 
 towards the glacier is especially beautiful from the hill at the 
 commencement of the Lake of Durren. 
 
 fi3/4 M. Gsteig, Fr. Chdtelet (3937') (Bar, R. 1. B. IV4 fr.), 
 in a wild and grand situation. From the marshy valley rise the 
 precipitous Sanetsrhhom f9426') and the Oldenhorn (10,250'"), 
 which almost entirely hide the rays of the sun from the village 
 during the winter. 
 
 The path here turns to the S. W., ascends the valley of the 
 Reuschbach through woods and pastures . commanding a vie\v of 
 the precipices of the Oldenhorn and Ser Rou<je, whence several 
 waterfalls are precipitated, and reaches (2 hrs.") the sunnnit of the 
 Col de Pillon (5092'). During the descent (pedestrians may 
 frequently avail themselves of short cuts) a view is disclosed of 
 a valley surrounded by picturesque , wooded mountains , and 
 studded with innumerable houses and chalets, known collectively as 
 Ormont-dessus ( 3S32 ft.) ; in the background rise the peaks of the Tour 
 d'Ay. To the 1. the rocky Creux de Champ, the base of the 
 Diablerets . from whitdi munerous brooks precipitate themselves, 
 forming the (rrandc-Katt, which waters the Ormont valleys and 
 falls into the Ivhone below Aigle. Then a descent of 3'/.? M. 
 to the *mtel des Diablerets (U. li/.>. B. l'/.,, L. and A. 1, pen- 
 sion 5 fr.). at the W. base of the Pillon. The hotel is 11/2 M. 
 distant from Vers I'Fylise (*n6tel de TOurs, also a Pension ; Cerf, 
 pension SVo fr.). the largest of these scattered villages. 
 
 F r o m r m o n t - d e s s u s to G r y o n by the Pas d e 1 a C r o i .x 
 S'/.. Ins., or by Arveyes (see below) 4" hrs. : a heautiful walk, guide un- 
 necessary. From the Hotel des Diablerets the traveller ascends tlie vallcv
 
 156 Route 39. ORMONT-DESSONS. 
 
 of the Grande Eau fur '/.. hr., and then enters a lateral valley by a bridle- 
 path to the r. (S.W.J. After a somewhat steep ascent of 13j4 hV., during 
 which a line retrospect of the Diablerets i.^ frequently obtained, the sum- 
 mit of the Pas (le la Croix (.57U5') is attained ; several houses lie to the 1. 
 The traveller should descend hence by the r. bank of the Gri/onue for 
 about 1 hr.. till within 'J4 hr. walk fnun Arceyes (I1J4 hr. from the pass), 
 and then descend to the 1. : the Vjrook is soon crossed, and Gryon is 
 reached in 2U min. (p. 'lA^). Tliis route is preferable to that which leads 
 more directly to Gryon on the 1. bank of the brook, on account of the 
 magnificent view it commands of the Dent du 3Iidi, Dent de Morcles, Grand 
 Moveran, and the Argentine. 
 
 The Oldenhorn (10.250') is frequently ascended for the sake of the 
 magnificent view it commands \ guides (necessary) may be found at Gsteig 
 and at the Hotel des Diablerets (10 — 12 fr.). Ascent from Gsteig in 7, 
 descent 4'J2 hrs. ; from the hotel ascent 8, descent b^\-> hrs. The excursion 
 is unattended with danger, but requires a steady head and sure foot. The 
 paths unite at the chalets of the Obtve Oldenalp (Alpine fare only), where 
 the night is usually passed. 
 
 Immediately adjoining Ormont-dessus are the houses of the 
 lower part of the valley, known as Ormont-dessous, where the 
 following inns are much frequented in summer: Hotel des Alpes ; 
 Mont d'Or, well spoken of; *Trois Suisses, moderate; one-horse 
 carr. to the Hotel des Diablerets 8 fr. , and a gratuity of 2 fr. 
 About 47-2 M. from Vers TEglise the road unites with that from 
 Chateau d'Oex (p. 154), and turns to the S.W. ; I'/o M- farther 
 is Le Sepey (3453'J, the principal village in the lower part of the 
 valley (p. 155). Far below, at the base of the precipitous and beauti- 
 fully wooded rocks, the Grande- Eau forms several waterfalls; 
 opposite rises the imposing Chamossairt [6932'). Beyond the 
 valley of the Rhone rise the four peaks of the Dent du Midi. 
 The road now descends in numerous windings towards the Grande- 
 Eau, and, passing between vineyards, reaches (7 M. from SepeyJ 
 Aigle (see p. 200). 
 
 From Gsteig to Sion over tlieSanetsch, a fatiguing and 
 unattractive route. From Gesseney to Gsteig (p. 154) 9 31., thence to 
 Sion in 8'J4 hrs. The path crosses the Sarine beyond Gsieicf, and ascends 
 the valley of that river to the dreary Kreuzbodeii (2^\2 hrs. from Gsteig) \ 
 thence I'j^ hr. to the culminating point of the Sanetsch (7369'), Fr- Sen in. 
 lieyond the pass a magnificent view is obtained of the valleys and mountains 
 of the S. Valais as far as 3Iont Blanc. Then a descent to (33)4 hrs.) Chan- 
 dolin (Inn, good wine), and by Granois and Orniona to (I'ja hr.) Sion 
 (p. 254). A.scent from Sion to the pass 7, thence to Gsteig 2 hrs. 
 
 40. From Bulle to Montreux or Vevay by the Moleson 
 and the Jaman. 
 
 Comp. Maps, pp. Ii6, 188. 
 From Bulle to the Moleson 4^ 2 brs, descent to Montbovon 4 hrs. ; thence 
 to the Col du Jaman 3, descent to Montreux 3, to Vevay 4'|2 hrs., a most 
 attractive excursion of two days. Byron terms the passage of the Jaman 
 'beautiful as a dream". In order to realise this, the traveller yet unac- 
 quainted with the Lake of Geneva and the mountains of Savoy, should 
 cross the pass from the valley of the Sarine, so as to have this mag- 
 nificent spectacle suddenly presented to view ; the morning and evening 
 lights are the most favourable, for about noon the lake is veiled in mist.
 
 MOLIvSON. 4it. Route. IT)? 
 
 — From the I.ako of Geneva to the Bernese Ohcrland the route by Aiglc 
 and the Col dc Pillon (p. 155) is far preferable to that over the "Jaman. 
 see p. 152. 
 
 Bulle r'25'23') (Cheval Blanc; Hotel de la Ville). tho principal 
 depot of the hijrhly esteemed Gniypre cheese, is tho terniiiiiis 
 of the branch railway Romont-BuUe (see p. 162). Diligence several 
 times daily to Gesseney (p. 154) by Albeuve. Montbovon (see 
 below), and Chateau d'Oex (p. 154): also to Vevay hy Chatel St. 
 Denis. Guide (3 — 5 fr.) for the ascent of the Mole'son (6 hrs.) 
 unnecessary for moderately experienced mountaineers. 
 
 The path gradually ascends by the brook La Treme to the 
 (1 hr.) red-roofed buildings of Pnrt-Dieu, formerly a Carthtisian 
 monastery foloS'). whence it proceeds along the W. -<lopes of 
 tilt' mountain, crossing several small affluents of the Treme. 
 '2 hrs. Chalets of Les Planes (Alpine fare and 8 indifferent 
 beds). The route can hardly be mistaken, as the summit of the 
 Moleson is frequently visible. The path, which now becomes 
 precipitous and ill-deflned . ascends hence to the summit in 
 lV-2 ^r. 
 
 The Moleson (6578'). a continuation of the Jaman. the most 
 advanced spur of the group, is the Ivigi of W. Switzerland, and 
 may be recognised in all the panoramas of this part of Switzer- 
 land by its precipitous, rocky slopes, surrounded by meadows 
 and forests: it affords a rich field for the botanist. 
 
 The view embraces the Lake of Geneva, the Mts. of Savoy, 
 the Dent d'Oche and Dent du Midi, as far as the Mont Blanc 
 chain, of which the highest summit, as well as the jagged Aiguille 
 Verte and Aiguille rVArgenticre. is visible hence. To the 1. of 
 the latter, and more in the foreground, rises the Dent de Morcles, 
 forming the commencement of a chain of mountains which cul- 
 minate in the Diablerets in the centre, and extend to the heights 
 of Gruycre at the feet of the spectator. Of the Alps of the 
 Valais. the Grand Com'bin . to the 1. of the Mont Blanc group, 
 is alone visible. Most of the Bernese Alps are also concealed. 
 To the extreme 1. rises the Titlis. To the W. the Jura. 
 
 From Albeuve (see below) to the Mole.<?on ("4 — i'j.; hrs.). On the 
 outskirts of the villag:e the path crosses to the 1. bank of the brook, tra- 
 verses pastures, enters a picturesque ravine, and leads alon;: the well 
 shaded slope to a small chapel, and a saw-mill a short distance farther. 
 The path here crosses to the r. bank of the stream, and at a charcoal- 
 kiln, '(o hr. farther, recrosses to the 1. bank. The first chalet is reached 
 in 5 min. more. Towards the N.X.E. the ridge which separates the Mo- 
 leson from the Little Moleson is now visible. The path continues trace- 
 able as far as the vicinity of the highest chalet, which the traveller leaves 
 on the 1. Thence a somewhat fatiguing scramble of !• 4 hr. to the sum- 
 mit. There is no path, but the traveller will find his way without diffi- 
 culty to the ridge, whence the summit is visible, and is attained in 
 10 min. more. 
 
 The path a.scending from Vaubti:. the station before RuUo (p. 162), 
 unites at Part-Dieu with that from Bullei another path ascends from 
 SeiiigaU'S. But neither of these loutes is recommended, as a loftv but-
 
 158 Route 40. J AM AN. 
 
 tress of the mountain must be traversed before the traveller enters the 
 valley of the ireme ami reaches the base of the Jloleson. 
 
 From the summit of the Moleson the traveller may descend 
 in 3 hrs. to Albeuve (^'2539'J, a .-mall village (*Inn) in the valley of 
 the Sarine, on the high road from Ge.-^eney to Bulk. Hence by 
 the road towards the S. to (d M.J Montbovon ('2606'J (^Hotel da 
 Jaman; horse to the Jaman 10. to Montreux '20 fr. ; guide o fr., 
 but not nece-saryj. 
 
 The road from Gesseney and Chateau dUex (p. 157), on whicli a di 
 ligence runs several times daily, leads N. from Jlontbovon to (10' |j 31.) 
 Bulle. To the 1. of the road, '-i^-z 31. before Bulle is reached, on an 
 eminence, is situated the ancient little town of Gruyere, Ger. Greyevz 
 (Maison de Ville: Fleitv de Lijs). It possesses an old castle, flanked with 
 towers and ramparts, once the residence of the powerful Counts of 
 Gruyere, who became extinct in the i6th cent. ; it is believed to date from 
 the 6th cent., and is one of the best preserved memorials in Switzerland 
 of that remote age. The church of 8t. Theodule dates from 1254. The 
 surrounding district consists of rich pasture-land : the chief occupation of 
 the inhabitants is the manufacture of the well-known cheese which takes 
 its name from the to'vvn. The -ranz des vaches' of Gruyere is celebrated. 
 
 Beyond the last houses of Montbovon the path ascends to the 1. ; 
 after 25 min. to the r. by a house; further on it descends to 
 the bridge (ob min.j over the Honyrin; 1/4 hr. church of the 
 scattered village of Allieres; ''4 hr. inn Croix Noire. 
 
 The path now ascends gradually to the foot of the pass, then 
 more rapidly over green pastures (not too much to the 1.) in 
 li/.) hr. to the chalets of the Piiur de Jaman (487'2'), and some 
 min. farther to the Col de la Dent de Jaman. Here is suddenly 
 di^iclosed to the 8. a ^.trikingly beautiful ^prospect of the entire 
 mountain-range as far as the Rockers de Xaye (6923') and the 
 Tour d'Ay; to the N. the Mole'son (p. ioT); the view also em- 
 braces the rich Canton de Yaud, the .S. portion of the Jura 
 chain, the long range of the Alps of Savoy, the E. extremity 
 of the Lake of Geneva; .^. the huge mountains which bound the 
 Valais, and the snowy summits of the Great .St. Bernard. From 
 the Dent de Jaman, Ger. Jommen. (6i65'j, 1279' above the 
 •Cor, a fatiguing a;cent of I'/o hr. more, the view embrac.-s the 
 entire Lake of Geneva , the lakes of Neuchatel and Morat, Pila- 
 tus, .and the Weissenstein. 
 
 From the Col to Montreux the path cannot be mistaken ; 
 12 min. from the chalets it turns to the r. ; 25 min. a bridge, 
 then a gradual ascejit, and a level walk to En Avant, an inn, 
 1 hr. from the Col, similar to that at Allieres. The path hence, 
 generally paved, follow^ the W. slope of the valley. At a curve 
 in the path (1 hr. from En Avant), at the commencement of the 
 region of fruit-trees, a narrower path, also paved, leads to the 1.. 
 to (10 min. J Sonzier, again descends rapidly to the 1., and reaches 
 (I/2 hr.J Montreux, or Vernex (p. 19TJ, a steamboat and railway 
 station . 
 
 If the path to the r. at the above-mentioned curve be taken,
 
 LAIPEN. 41. Route. 159 
 
 the village of Chernex is soon reached (2054'}. charmingly situ- 
 ated in the midst of fruit-trees; a nev road, passing to the N. 
 of Chatelard, leads thence towards the village of ChaiUy (Pens. 
 Benker). Before it is reached, a path descends 1. to the high- 
 road leading to (4i/-2 M.) Vevay (p. 194j. (The traveller pro- 
 ceeding in the opposite direction , from Vevay, when he arrives 
 at the last houses of Jm Tour, must take the first path to the 
 1. of the high road, turning to the r. ; 12 min. direction-po-t, 
 indicating the way to 'ChaUey, Charnex, and Jaman'}. 
 
 41. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevay). 
 
 ron - K ai 1 w a y. To Freiburg in 1 — 1' 4 hr., lares o tV. i5, 2 fr. 70 c, 
 2 fr. ; to Chexbres (Vevay) in 8 — b"|2 hrs. . fares U fr. 60. 7 fr., 5 fr. 
 '20 c. •, to Lausanne in o'|4— 4 hrs., fares lu fr. !J<), 7 fr. 85, fr. bC) c. ; to 
 Geneva in S'l-.— bi|-2 lirs.. fares 17 fr. Tjo, 12 fr. 30. 9 fr. lU c. 
 
 On the arrival of eacli train at Chexbres, an omnibus is in waiting to 
 convey passengers to \'evay (fare 1 fr., luggage 2i) c), which is thus reached 
 more expeditiously than by first proceeding to Lausanne. (Path from 
 Chexbres to \evay see p. Wi.) Several trains correspond at Lausanne with 
 trains on the Western Lailway to Geneva ; in the direction of Vevay-Bex 
 (Siun) there is no direct communication, a change of carriages always tak- 
 ing place. Arrangement of carriages with passages throughout, the same 
 as in German Switzerland. 
 
 As far as Chexbres the Oron-line traverses a fertile tract of arable 
 land and pasture; to the 1. occasional glimpses are obtained of the Alpine 
 chain, from the Bernese Uberland to the mountains of Savoy on the S. 
 bank of the Lake of Geneva. The district between Chexbres and Lausanne 
 is one of singular beauty, affording views unsurpassed by those of any 
 other Swiss railway. 
 
 On starting, a seat on the left should be selected, but the 
 traveller should observe that the train backs out from the Bern 
 station, afterwards taking a W. direction. .Shortly after lea^*ing 
 the station , a glimpse is obtained of the Bernese Alps (in front 
 of them, to the 1., rises the pyramidal Niesen ) and the range 
 enclosing the valleys of the .'^immen and the Sarine ; of the latter 
 the barren and rugged walls of the Breniaire (772G'J and Folii- 
 rant (7G90'J are most conspicuous. First stat. liiimpLitz. As far 
 as Stat. Thorisliaus the country is monotonous; the line now de- 
 scends (to the 1. glimpses of the mountains of the Simmenthal), 
 and crosses the Sense (Sinyine). the frontier between the cantons 
 of Bern and Freiburg. Next stat. Flamatt. 
 
 F r m F 1 a m a 1 1 to I, a u p e n diligence twice daily in P14 hr. by Xeueneck 
 (Bar or Post). Laupen, a small town at the foot ofthe Bramberg, at the 
 junction of the Sense and the Sarine (Saaiie), is celebrated in the annals 
 of Switzerland as the scene of a victory gained in 1339 by the Bernese 
 under Rudolph von Erlarh (p. 95) over the army of Freiburg and the allied 
 forces of the nobility of the Uechtland, the Aargau. Savoy, and Burgundy. 
 The anniversary ol the battle is observed every live years. The battle- 
 lield on the liraniberrf. 3J4 31. t,i the N. of the road between Xeueneck 
 and Laupen, is indicated l)y a monument, erected in 1829. — Another 
 obelisk has been erected on a hill above Xeueneck in memory of the 
 insignificant victory gained here in 1798 by Bernese troops over tlie French. 
 
 Beyond Flamatt a tunnel is entered, on emerging from which 
 the line traverses the green valley of the Ttifferva-Burlt. After
 
 160 Route 4]. FRKIHUHG. From Bern 
 
 passing stat. Schmitten, Diidinyen (French Gain), and BaUiswyl, the 
 lofty '^Viaduct of the Sarine is reached, 260' in height, and 
 nearly 1/2 ^I- ^ong- The fact that upwards of 3000 tons of iron 
 were employed in its construction will convey some idea of its 
 proportions. Soon after, the train skirts the old town-walls of 
 Freiburg, and enters the station on the W. side of the town. 
 
 Freiburg. 'ZKh ringer Hof. near the bridge, fine view (»f botli 
 the bridtres from the terrace, R. 3, L. i|.j. B. I'l-j, D- at 1Q'J2 and S o'cl. 
 3, at 5 o'cl. 4. A. 1 fr. : "^K r a m e r n , or H 6 t e 1 d e s M e r c i e r s , near the 
 Church of St. Nicholas, similar prices: "Hotel deFribourg, in the 
 upper part of the town : Beer-garden in the lower part of the town, near 
 the barracks. — Omnibus to the lower part of the town 1J2 fr. 
 
 Freiburg (2041'). Fr. Fribourg . the capital of the canton of 
 that name, and of the ancient Uechtland . founded in 1175 by 
 Borthold of Zahringen fp. 95). stands on a rocky eminence, sur- 
 rounded by the Sarine (Saane), in situation very similar to Bern, 
 and contains a pop. of 10.904 (1136 Prot.). the majority of whom 
 speak French. Freiburg forms the boundary between the two 
 tongues. German being spoken in the lower part of the town. 
 
 The picturesque situation of the town and bridges is not visible from 
 the railway station: a visit of a few hours, however, suffices to inspect 
 thorn. The following walk (occupying about li2hr.) is recommended. 
 From the station to the Jesuits" College ; thence through the town, across 
 the Suspension Bridge^ ascend by the road to the r. to the Poni de Gotteron 
 (see below: an old tower between the two bridges is a good point of 
 view), across this, and by numerous windings to Boin-giUon^ a gnmp of 
 houses in the vicinity of the town. Proceeding to the 1., by a crucifix, as 
 far as the first curve in the road, a point (on the r. side of the road) is 
 gained, which aflbrds a good survey of the windings of the Sarine and a 
 view of the Moleson. ( The high road to Lausanne commands the same 
 view as the railway, so that the traveller need proceed no farther.) In 
 returning, the Loretio Chapel should be visited, from which another fine 
 view of the town is obtained. Farther on, by a small chapel, a direct 
 path descends by steps to the Arsenal. Hence to the 1. by the fountain, 
 and across the stone bridge over the Sarine. from which the traveller 
 ascends to the Council Hall. Those who care to examine the bridge more 
 closely should walk to it from Freil»urg. .\bout 1 31. from the town a good 
 footpath to the r. descends to the foot of the pillars on which the bridge 
 rests, and a steep path ascends thence to the cafe on the Freiburg side. 
 Then across the bridge to stat. BalUswid, and back to Freiburg l>y train. 
 
 Previous to the construction of the suspension-bridge . an 
 hour scarcely sufficed for the descent of the hill by numerous 
 windings and the ascent of the opposite bank ; the transit is now 
 effected in two or three minutes. 
 
 The ^Suspension Bridge, completed in 1834, is. according to 
 an inscription on the terrace of the Zahringer Hof. 905' in length. 
 22' in breadth, and 175' above the surface of the Sarine. It is 
 suspended by four chains, upwards of 1300' in length, which 
 form a single arch, the extremities being secured by means of 
 128 anchors attached to blocks of stone, at a considerable depth 
 below the surface of the earth. 
 
 At some distance above the bridge is the Pont de Gotteron. 
 a similar structure . completed in 1840, spanning the Vallee de
 
 to Lausanne. FREIBURG. 41. Route. 161 
 
 Gotteron , a deep and romantic rocky ravine, which opens into 
 the valley of the Sarine. The construction of the bridge (700' 
 in length, and Q8o' ahove the water) is in some respects more 
 remarkable than that of its neighbour, as the wire-chains are 
 secured in the sandstone rock itself, thus rendering pillars 
 superfluous. 
 
 The *Church of St. Nicholas, the episcopal cathedral, recently 
 restored, with its slender tower ('266' in height, erected 1452) 
 is a good specimen of Gothic architecture (founded 1285, com- 
 pleted 1500). The portal bears some remarkable reliefs. 
 
 The ''Organ, one of the finest in Europe, possesses 67 stops and 7800 
 pipes, some of them 32' in length. It was built by Al. Mooser (d. 1839), 
 whose bust has been placed under the instrument to the r. Performances 
 (m it may be heard every evening in summer after dusk, except on Satur- 
 days and" the eves of festivals, when the hour is 1.80. p.m.: tickets of 
 adm. at the hotels 1 fr. each ( fee for a concert at other times 60 fr. for a 
 party of 12; 5 fr. each additional pers.). — The old carved stalls also de- 
 serve notice, and, in the second chapel, a fine modern picture by Beschtcan- 
 den, representing St. Anne and St. Jlary. The choir possesses three modern 
 stained-glass windows, representing St. I^icholas and other saints. A tablet 
 on the S. pillar at the entrance to the choir is to the memory of Peter 
 Canisius (d. 1597), the first German Jesuit, celebrated for his theological 
 writings. 
 
 The Town Hall, near the Church of St. Nicholas, occupies 
 the site of the former palace of the dukes of Zahringen. Ad- 
 jacent is the Council Hall with a clock-tower. In front of these 
 buildings stands an old lime-tree, 14' in circumference, partially 
 supported by stone pillars. Tradition says this venerable tree 
 was originally a twig, borne by a young native of Freiburg, when 
 he arrived in the town , breathless and exhausted from loss of 
 blood, to announce to his fellow-citizens the victory of Morat. 
 'Victory' was the only word he could summon strength to utter, 
 and having thus fulfilled his mission , he expired. The tree 
 thus serves the double purpose of commemorating the triumph 
 of the Swiss, and the heroic conduct of- the young soldier. 
 Adjoining the square by the old lime stands the Monument 
 of Father Greyoire Girard (b. at Freiburg 1765, d. 1850). 
 
 A long flight of steps leads from the Council llall to the 
 lower part of the town and the river; the pavement of the street 
 Grand-Fontaine serves the honises as a conduit for conveying the 
 water of the river to the lower portion of the town , to be 
 employed in case of fire. 
 
 Near the Gate of Morat is the Jesuits' College , founded by 
 Father Canisius (see above) in 1584, suppressed in 1847, after the 
 war of the Separate League. The extensive buildings belonging 
 to the college occupy the highest site in the town, and aff"ord a 
 survey of the town and its environs. — Near it is the extensive 
 and loftily situated Seminary for Priests. 
 
 The Hermitage of ^t. Magdalena, on the Sarine, 3i|4 M. below the town, 
 a cell and chapol cut in the rock, frequently attracts the curious, but 
 is scarcely worthy of a visit. 
 
 B.^JOEKEK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. H
 
 162 Route 41. ROMONT. 
 
 After Freiburg is quitted the tluest views are always to the 
 1., tlie Moleson (p. 157) forming the most prominent feature in 
 the landscape. The Sense , with its perpendicular banks , also 
 lies to the 1. As Romont , the first station of importance is 
 approached, the nunnery of La FiUe-Dieu lies to the 1. ; beyond 
 it rise the mountains of the 8. bank of the Lake of Geneva, 
 farther to the 1. the Dent du Midi, and nearer, to the extreme 
 1., the Moleson. 
 
 Romont (2326') (Cerf; Couronne; Croix Blanche), on the 
 Glane, the principal place in this district, is picturesquely 
 situated on an eminence. The castle, which rises on the 8. side 
 above the walls and watch-towers, was founded by the Burgundian 
 kings in the 10th cent. , and now serves as a residence for the 
 baililT. 
 
 Branch railway from Romont to Bulle (p. 157) (in sj^ hr., fares 
 1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 25 c. ; stations Vuisternens, tSalef, Vanh'KZ), of which travellers 
 intending to ascend the Mole'son, or to make tlic tour described in R. 40, 
 may avail themselves. 
 
 Beyond Romont, Mont Blanc becomes visible, and occasional 
 glimpses of the Moleson, Dent de Jaman, and Dent du Midi are 
 obtained. After passing through a tunnel , the train commands a 
 fine prospect to the r. of an undulating, fertile district , bounded 
 by the Jura range ; on an eminence in the foreground is situated 
 the picturesque little town of 
 
 Rue (2328') (Maison de Ville; Fleur de Lys) , commanded 
 by an old turreted castle. The valley is traversed by the Broye, 
 which falls into the Lake of Morat , and connects it with the 
 Lake of Neuchatel. At Own le Chatelet the line intersects 
 the rocks of the castle-hill, on the 8. side of which is the 
 station ; Oron la Ville lies below, to the r. Beyond stat. Palezieux 
 (Granges) the mountains become more conspicuous. Chexbres is 
 the station for Vevay (see below). 
 
 Beyond the next tunnel, a **view of singular beauty, embracing 
 the greater part of the Lake of Geneva and the surrounding 
 mountains, is suddenly disclosed. In the direction of Vevay, 
 which is not itself visible, are the Pleiades, the Dent de Jaman, 
 the valley of the Rhone, and the mountains of 8avoy ; the fore- 
 ground consists of numerous villages in the midst of vineyards. 
 Beyond stat. Grand- Vaux, the villages of Lutry, Fully, and Ouchy 
 on the bank of the lake become visible, and, to the r. of the 
 latter, Lausanne, After passing through a tunnel and over a 
 viaduct, the train next reaches stat. La Conversion (Lutry), 
 beyond which the valley of the Pattdeze is crossed by a long 
 viaduct of nine arches. BeloAv it is an iron viaduct of the 
 Western line. After passing through another short tunnel, the 
 train reaches Lausanne, Avhere the Oron-line unites with the 
 Western.
 
 AARRERG. 42. Route. 163 
 
 From Lausanne to Geneva, or to the valley of the Rhone, by 
 steamboat or by the Wt-stcrn line, see R. oO. Omnibus, see p. 191. 
 
 From Chexbres to Vevay. 
 
 Coinp. Mapy p. 188. 
 
 Distance 4 M. Station Rivaz (St. Saphorin) on the Western line, be- 
 low the village of Chexbres to the S. E., is i'j-j M. nearer. The diligence, 
 which leaves Vevay I'ja — 2 hrs. before the arrival of the trains at 
 Chexbres, ascends in \^\\ hr. Beautiful views, especially on the descent 
 to ^'evay. 
 
 The view froni the station is limited; the mountains of Savoy 
 only are visible, and to the 1. , in the background of the Rhone 
 valley, Mont ('atoyne. On leaving the station, the road ascends 
 '/•i M., then descends nearly 1/2 ^- ^^ ^^^^ large village of Chexbres; 
 I'/) M. farther the Western line is crossed, and the Lausanne 
 and Vevay road is soon joined; from this point to Vevay '/.> M. 
 more. The last part of the route, leading between vineyard-walls, 
 is uninteresting. 
 
 On tlie descent a magnificent ' '■' view, not inferior to the prospect 
 commanded by the railway to Lausanne, above de.scribed, though dis 
 closing itself more gradually, is enjoyed. Best survey from the Signal 
 de Chexbres (Hotel du Signal., with garden), 'j-.. M. from the stat. At the 
 spectator's feet lies the greater part of the Lake of Geneva ; to the 1. Vevay •, 
 above it from 1. to r. extends the ridge of the Pas de Jaman, commanded 
 by the Dent de Jaman, so called from its tooth-like form, and the broad 
 ridge of the Rochers de Naye; then the twin peaks of the Tour dWy and 
 de Morges, rising frimi the mountain chain which bounds the lake; to the 
 rear the Grand-Moveran and the Dent de Morcles ; in the centre the back- 
 ground is formed by the pyramid of Mont Catogne, on the 1. of which rises 
 the snowy cone of Mont Vclan (Pain de Sucre); then the mountains of 
 Savoy, the highest point of which is the Dent d'Uche with its broad ridge. 
 As Vevay is approached, the Grand-JIoveran in the Rhone Valley to the 1. 
 seems to recede, and the rugged, partially snow-clad ridge tif the Dent du 
 Jlidi, to the r. in the rear of the mountains of Savoy, to advance. 
 
 42. From Bern to Neuchatel by Morat. Avenches. 
 Payerne. 
 
 Besides the direct Bern and Bienne Ra i 1 w ay (see p. 7), there are 
 also the two following routes : 
 
 (1). High-road from Bern by Aarberg and Ins to Ne 
 chatel. Diligence in o'l^hrs., distance 31'j4 M. 
 
 The road intersects the Enge (p. 97), crosses the Aare, and ascends to 
 Maikirch. Pleasing panorama from the top of the hill (2690'). Passing 
 Frienisberg., once a Cistercian monastery, now a Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 
 the traveller reaches 
 
 I2'|'j M. Aarberg (1479') (Krone)., an important military point, situated 
 on an eminence, entirely surrounded by the Aare when swollen. The 
 church is adjoined by the ancient palace of the counts of Aarberg, who in 
 1351 sold their town to Bern. — Beyond Aarlierg the road traverses the 
 extensive Aarbfvger Moos, and leads through an imdulating district to 
 
 9'j-.' M. Ins, Fr. Anel (Har), on an eminence alVording an admirable 
 survey of the three lakes and tlie entire Alpine chain from the Titlis to 
 Mont Blanc. 
 
 Diligence to Morat once daily, to "Neuveville twice daily in 1 lir., 
 see p. 10. 
 
 Passing the S.W. slopes of the Jolimont (1982'), the road now descends 
 to the Zihl Bridge, the boundary between the cantons of Bern and Neu- 
 
 11*
 
 164 Route 42. MORAT. 
 
 chatel. At Montmirail there is a well-conducted Moravian Institution for 
 girls, not far from which, on the lake, is the Prifargier Asylum (p. 167). 
 
 At St. Blaise (Cheval Blanc) the lake and the railway (p. 10) are 
 reached. 
 
 9i|4 M. Neuchatel, see p. 165. 
 
 (2). High-road from Bern by Morat to Xeuchatel. Diligence 
 to Morat ( 17 31.) in 3 hrs., in correspondence with the steamboat to Keu- 
 chatel (in IIJ2 hr.). 
 
 Bern is quitted by the Obere Thor, and a handsome avenue 
 traversed, running parallel with the railroad to Freiburg (p. 159). 
 The road passes through Frauenkappelen , so named from a sup- 
 pressed convent (to the 1. a distant view of the Alps of Bern and 
 Freiburg) and Muhleberg. Beyond 
 
 IOV2 M. Gumminen (1591') (3 M. to the S. is Laupen, 
 p. 159), the road crosses the Sarine, which falls into the Aare 
 3 M. lower down. At Biberen the Canton of Freiburg is entered, 
 and the N.E. extremity of the Lake of Morat approached, not 
 far from the town of that name. 
 
 61/2 J^I- Morat (1479'), Ger. Murten (*Couronne or Post; Aiyle; 
 Lion, on the lake), a small but wealthy town, with 23'28 inhab. 
 (120 Rom. Cath.), is situated on the lake to which it gives its 
 name. Its narrow streets, with arcades similar to those at Bern, 
 are overshadowed by an ancient Castle , which , with a garrison 
 of 1500 Bernese under Adr. von Bubenberg, in 1476 resisted 
 the artillery of Charles the Bold for ten days. 
 
 The Battle of Morat was fought on June 22nd, 14(6. It was the bloodiest 
 of those three disastrous contests (Grandson, Morat, and Xancy), in which 
 the puissant Duke of Burgundy successively lost his treasure, his glory, 
 and his life. The Confederates numbered barely 34.000 men. The 
 Burgundians sustained a loss of 15,000 men, with the whole of their am- 
 munition and baggage. A story is current at Morat, that Kapoleon I., 
 when on his way to the Congress of Rastadt in 1797, visited the field of 
 battle, and remarked to a young Swiss officer of his guard : ' Jeune Capi- 
 taine, si Jamais nous livrons bataille en ces lieux, soyez persuadi que nous 
 ne j)r-endrons pas le lac pour retraite.^ 
 
 The government of Freiburg caused a marble Obelisk, 65' high, to be 
 erected on the battle-field in 1822, Dj-j M. to the S. of Morat. — The 
 Gymnasium, or grammar-school, contains a collection of ancient Burgundian 
 weapons. 
 
 The Lake of Morat (1427'), termed in the middle ages 
 the Vecht-See (comp. p. 160), the Lacus Aventicensis of the Ro- 
 mans, 6 M. long, and 3 M. wide, is separated from the Lake of 
 Neuchatel by a narrow mountain-ridge . the Mont Vully (see 
 below) towards the N., and the Charmontel to the S. , but con- 
 nected with it by the river Broye. 
 
 The Steamboat steers due N. from Morat across the lake 
 towards Mont Vully (2267'), which on the side towards the Lake of 
 Morat is covered with vines, and on that towards the Lake of Neu- 
 chatel with forests. Near Sugiez, where the Broye issues from the 
 Lake of Morat, the tunnel is lowered to allow the steamboat to 
 pass under a wooden bridge. To the W. extends the Jura chain, 
 from the AVeissenstein near Soleure to a point S. of Neuchatel.
 
 AVENCHES. 43. Route. 165 
 
 The Broye , whioli connects the Lakes of Morat and Neuchatel 
 (the level of the latter lake is 4 inches below the former), and 
 flows round Mont Vully on the N., is the channel by which the 
 steamboat enters the Lake of NeuchS,tel near La Sauge^ steering 
 first S.W. to Cudrefin, and afterwards N.W. to Neuchatel. The 
 motion in these small vessels is considerable in stormy weather. 
 
 Neuchatel, see below. 
 
 Fioni 3Iorat to I'aycrnc (12 M.), a route historically interesting. 
 Tlie road at first skirts the lake as far as 
 
 5'j4 31. Avenches ( Maison de Ville ; Couronne)., the Rom. Aveniicum, 
 capital of the Ilelvetii, known as early as the time of Csesar, now a small 
 Prot. town (pop. 1835). 
 
 The remains of the great amphitheatre and other public buildings, and 
 especially the walls with their handsome towers, still easily traced, bear 
 testimony to the former magnificence of the city; and as it was the largest 
 Koman settlement in Switzerland, so it is now the richest field for Swiss 
 antiquarian research. l'J2 31. to the N. of the town the road from Morat 
 passes through a fragment of the old wall. In the background to the 1. 
 stand the ruins of an old tower, the best -preserved remains of Roman 
 architecture in the place. Close to the town, also on the 1., is a solitary 
 marble column of the Corinthian order, 39' high, supposed to be a remnant 
 of a temple of Apollo, and now termed Le Ciijognier., from a stork \'> nest 
 having occupied its capital for many ages. 
 
 •' By a lone wall a lonelier column rears 
 A grev and grief-worn aspect of old days." 
 
 Ch. Mar. Pil. Cant. III., G5. 
 
 Most of the antiquities found at Avenches have been removed hence; 
 the most important are now in the museums of Bern and Lauanne. A 
 different plan is now adopted , and the yield of fresh excavations is pre- 
 served in a Museum in the vicinity of the amphitheatre. Recent investi- 
 gations have brought some interesting objects to light, mosaic pavements, 
 fragments of pillars , inscriptions . utensils of all sorts, some of them 
 probably sacrificial, but often absurdly misnamed. 
 
 For centuries a tradition was current that a tombstone to the memoi'v of 
 a daughter of Julius Alpinus had been discovered at Avenches, the supposed 
 inscription on which Lord Byron describes as a most afiecting composition 
 (see Ch. liar. Pil., C. III., 66, 67); but modern investigations have rudely 
 dispelled the illusion. A certain Paulus Gulielmus, who lived in the 16th 
 cent., is said to have imposed upon the credulity of posterity by inventing 
 both monument and inscription. 
 
 63|4 31. Payerne (1291') (Ours; Heine Berthe), the Patevmanim (!) of the 
 Romans, destroyed by the barbarians, and rebuilt in the 7th cent., is now 
 an unimportant little town in the Canton de Vaud, with a population of 
 3259 (French Prot.). The environs abound in reminiscences of Bertha, Queen 
 of Rudolph II. of Burgundy, the benefactress of the district, who is said 
 to have employed much of her time in spinning. So much traditionary 
 interest is attached to this period, that to this day the French Swiss, in 
 alluding to the departure of 'the good old times', frequently use the 
 expression: ^Ce n'est plus le temps oii Rerthe filait\ 
 
 43. Neuchatel and the Chaumont. 
 
 HAtels. Bcllevuc, in an open situation on the lake, R. from 2 fr., 
 B. 1, D. at 1 o"cl. 3, at 5 ocl. 4, L. 1|-n A. 1 fr, omnibus '^ fr. (luggage in- 
 cluded ; Hotel du 3Iont Blanc, a handsome building opened in 1871; 
 Grand Hotel du Lac (formerly Hotel des Alpes), near the lake, R. 2, 
 I). 3, A. 112, omnibus 'J2 fr. ; 'Hotel du Lac (with cafe), on the quay; 
 F a u c n , in the town, a commercial inn ; Hotel d u Commerce, near 
 the post-office. — Restaurant in the Palais Rougemont (p. 167).
 
 166 Route 43. NErCHATEL. Castle. 
 
 Railway - Station high above the tinvii to the X.E., at a cunsidcrahle 
 (li.^tance from the steamboat- pier. Pedestrians should quit the hot, dusty 
 road near the station, and descend to the lake by the shady walks to the 1. 
 — Omnibus to or from the station 30 c. , box (under 50 lbs.) 15 c. — 
 Steamboat to Yvcrdon see p. 172, to Moral see p. 165. 
 
 Swimming Baths at the harbour, opp. the Bellevue Hotel, bath 40 c. 
 
 Wines. The wine of Neuohatel is greatly esteemed : the best red wine 
 is grown at Cortaillod (p. 173) and Derrihre-Moulins., the best white between 
 St. Blaise tp. 110) and Ai/veniier (p. 170), and a.t Bevaix (p. 174). Sparkling 
 wine is also manufactured here. 
 
 Watches. The manufacture of watches is the most important branch 
 of industry in the canton, more particularly at La C/iaux-de-Fonds and 
 Lc Lode (R. 44); many of the watches sold at Geneva are made here. — 
 Ladies' and gentlemen's watches (works warranted) may be purchased at 
 the manufactory of Jeanjaquet Freres. 
 
 The Principality of Xeuchatel belonged to Burgundy down to 
 the 1 Ith cent. ; it was then united to the German Empire, and ceded by the 
 Emperor Rudolph of Hapsburg in 1288 to John of Chalons, whose great- 
 grandson .John III. became Prince of Orange by marriage. After the Chalons 
 family was extinct, the Counts of Freiburg and Hochberg became lords of 
 the principality. It subsequently descended by marriage to the house f)f 
 (Orleans - Longueville, which also became extinct in 1707. It was then ad- 
 judged by the states to Frederick I. of Pi-ussia, who was selected from 
 among lifteen competitors as being descended on the mother's side from 
 .lohn III. of Orange. It remained among the possessions of the crown of 
 Prussia for a century. In the year 1806 Napoleon created Alexander Berthier, 
 one of his marshals, Prince of Neuchatel , but eight years later it was 
 restored to Prussia. In the following year (1815) Neuchatel, which had 
 as early as 1406 been in close alliance with several Swiss towns, and 
 fought side by side with them, formally united with the Confederacy as the 
 2lst canton, though it still remained under Prussian protection. The 
 bond which connected it with Prussia was finally dissolved by a treaty 
 signed at Paris. May 26th, 1857. 
 
 NeucMtel [1433') , the capital of the canton of that name, 
 with 13,321 inhab. , is built on the steep slope of the Jura, 
 rising in the form of an amphitheatre, with the lake (27 M. 
 long, 6 M. wide) at its base. The modern part of the town, 
 with its handsome houses, grounds, and *quay nearly Y2 ^- ^ons, 
 is situated on the lake , upon a narrow strip of land formed by 
 the deposit brought down by the Seyon from the Chasseral. An 
 area for building purposes was reclaimed in 1830, a new channel 
 (524' in length) having been constructed for the Seyon above 
 the town by means of a tunnel (Tunnel de la Trouee du Seyon, 
 p. 168). 
 
 The Castle, on an eminence, is tlie seat of the government of 
 the canton. Near it stands the Temple du Haut, erected in the 
 r2th century. The choir contains a handsome Gothic monument 
 with 15 life-size figures in stone , erected in 1372 by a Count 
 of Neuchatel. restored in 1840. There are also monuments to the 
 Prussian Governor General von Zastrow, and the reformer Far el. 
 
 The College , a large new edifice on the bank of the lake, 
 contains a small natural history collection , founded by Professor 
 Agassiz (comp. p. 135), now resident in America. 
 
 In the vicinity, in the open square to the S., facing the 
 lake, is a bronze *Statue (1855) of David de Pury, a wealthy
 
 Cliainnonf. NEI'CIIATKL Hi. Route. 1^7 
 
 |iliilaiitliioj.ist Hiid native of Neuchatcl , who bequeathed to the 
 city 41/2 niillion francs. 
 
 The *Collection of Pictures, formerly exhibited in the College 
 des Filles (a handsome edifice on the road to the stat.), has been 
 transferred to the former Palais Eouyemont, at present Hotel 
 Dupeyron ("Cercle du Musee"), in the N.E. suburb (near it a 
 footpath ascends to the stat., comp. p. 166}. The pictures are 
 chietly by modern Swiss artists, and many exhibit considerable 
 talent. The custodian lives in the house, fee 1 fr. 
 
 The Entrance Hall contains a number of casts. — 1st Room. 
 18. A'. Clirardet, Cromwell reproached by his daughter Mrs. Claypole for the 
 death of Charles I. ; 23. Grosclaudey A richly-dressed lady kneeling at the 
 feet of the Doge Marino Falieri ; 50. Robert, S. Paolo fuori le Mura, the 
 great Basilica near Rome after the lire of 1823; '16. Girardet, A Huguenot 
 assembly surprised bv Rom. Cath. soldiery ; 12. Calame ( d. 1864) , the 
 Rosenlaui Glacier; 2'i. Girardet, 'The good-for-nothing"'; 37. Meuron, 
 Pastures between Iseltwald and the Faulhorn ; 33. Jecklin, Lake of 
 Lucerne. — 2nd Room (right). r)ver the door: 8. Bertfioiit, Young 
 Savoyard; 24. Grosclattde, -Vive le vin de 1834 1 ' ; 19. Girardet, A Father's 
 blessing ; Leopold Robert, Roman oxen ; 56. Tschaggemj, Mother and 
 child pursued by a bull ; '57. Tschagijeny, Flemish bridal procession of 
 the 17th cent. ; 40. Moritz, Henry II. of Longueville in the castle of 
 Colombier; 32. M. de Meuron, View of Rome from the palace of the 
 emperors, together with the latter building and the Baths of Caracalla; 
 "13. Calame, Monte Rosa. — 3rd Room. Portraits of Prussian regents 
 and generals; Marie d'Orle'ans in her 4th year, and at a later age; 
 Henry II. of Orleans. — 4th Room. Drawings and water-colours. 
 
 The adjacent buildine: contains the *Musee Challande, formerly 
 at Bern, an interesting; collection of stuffed Alpine animals. 
 
 The new Observatory , erected for the convenience of the 
 watch-manufacturers, is in tele;;raphic communication with Chaux- 
 (le-Fonds and Le Lode (p. 169). 
 
 The Charitable Institutions of Ncuchatel are celebrated; the 
 Municipal Jlo.'ipital, founded by David de Pury, the PourtaVes Hospi- 
 tal, near the Bern gate, the Licnatic Asylum of Prefargier, 3 M. from 
 Neuchatel , erected by M. de Meuron in 1844 at a cost of l'/-' 
 niillion fr. , and presented to the canton, etc., are all praise- 
 worthy and admirably conducted establishments. 
 
 The Chaumont (3845'), a spur of the Jura chain, situated to the X. nf 
 tin- tiiwn, conunands the mnst beautiful view in the vicinity of Neuchatel, 
 ciuliraoiiig the lakes nf Xevichatel, Morat, and Bienne, the towns of Soleure, 
 Bern, Freiburg, and the fertile hill-country lying between them, with the 
 entire Alpine chain from the Sentis to 3Iont Blanc in the background. An 
 afternoon cannot be more agreeably spent than in ascending this moun- 
 tain; but the traveller must bear in mind that a prospect of the Alps in 
 all their magnificence depends upon a state of the weather which it may 
 not be his good f(»rtune to enjoy. 'Restaurant 1J4 hr. below the summit. 
 The footpath diverges from the" Chaux-de-Fonds road I'n M. iinuu Xeu- 
 cliatel. and leads in I hr. to the summit ; the carriage-road diverges li(4 31. 
 farther on, leading to the summit in n|-.> hr. Char-a-bancs there and back
 
 168 
 
 44. From Neuchatel to Le Locle by Chaux-de-Fonds 
 and back by Les Fonts. 
 
 Railway C Le Jura Indnstriel' ) from Xeuchatel to Le Locle by 
 Chaux-de-Fonds in 2 lirs. 3 min. -, fares 4 fr. 75, 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 70 c. — 
 Diligence from Le Locle to I^euchatel by Les Fonts in 4 hrs., fare 
 4 fr. 25 c. 
 
 The railway -journey from Neuchatel to stat. Hauts Geneveys (1700' 
 above the lake' of Xeuchatel) is very delightful in clear weather, as it 
 commands beautiful views of the lake, and the Bernese Alps as far as 
 Mont Blanc. The traveller should secure a seat on the left ( S. E.) side. 
 
 Station, p. 166. The line skirts the heights behind the town 
 and the castle, running for some distance parallel to the Pontarlier 
 and Lausanne lines. To the 1. below is the Tunnel de la Trouee du 
 Seyon (p. 166). The line then crosses the Seyon, the high road 
 to Les Fonts (p. 170), and the Yal de Travers, and passes through 
 a tunnel ((1968' long) immediately above the two viaducts (p. 170) 
 across the gorge of Serrieres. As the train emerges, a beautiful 
 *view gradually unfolds itself, embracing the lake and the Alps ; 
 the Bernese Alps are distinctly visible to the E., and Mont Blanc, 
 towering above the Alpine chain, to the S. First stat. Corcelles; 
 the village (1879', p. 174) lies above, to the r. 
 
 Stat. Chambrelien (the village lies farther to the N.E., above 
 the last tunnel) occupies a most remarkable situation. To the S., 
 almost perpendicularly below it, runs the Fontarlier line (at a 
 horizontal distance of about 150 yds.) through the valley of the 
 Reuse (p. 170). Fine view near the refreshment-room. This 
 station is a terminus , out of which the train is backed. The 
 view, however, still continues on the same side, as the train 
 now proceeds in almost exactly the opposite direction, above the 
 two small tunnels before-mentioned. It then skirts a wooded 
 eminence: to the r. is the green and fertile Val de Ruz (3 M. 
 wide), with its numerous villages; beyond it, to the ¥.. , the 
 Chaumont (3845', p. 161). 
 
 Next stat. Geneveys-sur-Coffrane (2874'). Before stat. Hauts- 
 Geneveys (3136') (Hotel Renaud) the line crosses the road from 
 Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds, at the S.E. base of the Tete de 
 Rang (4668'). 
 
 The road from Xeuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds, which passes through 
 Valangin (21,443'), or Vallengin (Couronne), in the valley of the 
 Sei/on, and traverses the Val de Ruz, reaches Les Hauts- Geneveys by 
 Boudevillers (2487'). It then ascends to the X.W. for 41J2 M. by steep 
 zigzags to the * Col des Loges (4219') ("H6tel a la Vue des Alpes), which 
 commands an extensive view of the Vosges, the Jura, and the entire 
 Alpine chain as far as Mont Blanc. The descent to Chaux-de-Fonds is a 
 drive of 1 hr. 
 
 The Hauts -Geneveys station, the loftiest point of view 
 on the line, commands an imposing prospect of Mont Blanc. 
 The train shortly after enters a tunnel, 1^/4 M. in length, 
 under the Col des Loges (see above), through which it passes in 
 7 min. Stat. Convers ^ at the N. extremity of the tunnel, stands
 
 LE LOCLE. 44. Route. 169 
 
 amidst wild scenery , surrounded by almost perpendicular rocks, 
 through a small opening in vhich the road leads to the unim- 
 portant village of Les Convers, 1 M. distant. From Convers to 
 Bienne a railway through the valley of St. Iraier is in course 
 of construction. Immediately beyond this the train enters a tunnel 
 through Mont Sayne {^/^ M., 3 min. transit), then through 
 another near 
 
 La Chaux-de-Fonds (3274') (*Fleur de Lys; Guillaume Tell; 
 Balance; iJon d'Or). The traveller will be surprised to find in 
 this remote and sterile Alpine valley, situated at the altitude of 
 Snowdon, and imperfectly supplied with water, an important town 
 with handsome houses, numbering 19,930 inhab., the results of 
 whose skill and industry penetrate to the remotest quarters of 
 the globe, and who are thus enabled to defy the rigours of a 
 climate in which corn only ripens in the warmest summers. The 
 division of labour is here carried out to its fullest extent, each 
 portion of the mechanism of the watch being confided to a separate 
 class of workmen , while another class is employed in putting 
 the finishing touches to the completed work. Upwards of 1(30,000 
 watches are manufactured here annually, and about 85,000 in the 
 rival town of Le Locle. 
 
 The watchmakers are almost exclusively natives of the canton, 
 whilst the other artizans come from other districts', especially 
 from German Switzerland. The hotels are principally frequented 
 by commercial travellers ; several extensive firms at Hamburg, 
 Trieste, etc. have agents constantly resident here. 
 
 The traveller detained here may visit the Church with its 
 tasteful vaulted ceiling, and the subterranean Mills. At the N.W. 
 extremity of the town is the extensive School-House, and many 
 other handsome edifices, which afford an indication of the increas- 
 ing prosperity of the town. 
 
 Near Chaux-de-Fonds the railway makes a sharp curve to- 
 wards the S.W., and traverses a monotonous green Alpine valley 
 (stat. Eplatures half-way) to 
 
 Le Locle (30*22') (*Trois Rots), a considerable town of similar 
 character to the last , entirely burnt down a few years ago , but 
 since rebuilt, with 10.333 inhab. (1015 Rom. Cath.), almost ex- 
 clusively employed in the manufacture of watches. 
 
 The "Roche Fendue, 3 M. to the W. aC Locle on the French frontier, 
 is an aperture cut through the rock, commenced in 1799, and lately com- 
 pleted, by which the road from Locle to Besancon elVects a saving of 
 6 M.. and avoids the steep ascent of Les lirenets (Couronne ; Lion d'Or ; 
 both tolerable). A visit should be paid to the neighbouring subterranean 
 Mills of Cul des Roches (Inn), situated one above another in the face of a per- 
 pendicular precipice, and worked by the water of the Ried, which descends 
 from a height of 100', working each mill in succession. On the road to the 
 Koclie Fendue stands Les Rillodes, an educational estab. for poor children. 
 
 4>)2 M. to the X.W. of Locle is the 'Saut du Doubs, a picturesque water- 
 fall, 80' high (several inns). It is best seen from the French side. From 
 Locle a drive of 1 hr.. char - a bancs f) fr. .\bove the waterfall the river
 
 170 Hnutf 45. AUVERNIEK. 
 
 cxpanrls. prcscntiiij; the appearance of a lake : belnw, it flows for a distance 
 of 6 M. thronph a rocky gorge 1000' in depth, forming the frontier between 
 France and Switzerland. The pedestrian may here enjoy a charming 
 variety of rock and river scenery, and also lower down, as far as Goionois 
 and Sie. Ursanne. 
 
 The Diligence from Locle to Neuchatel (19'|'2 M., in 4 hrs.) 
 traverses the monotonous valley for a long distance (to the r. La Chaux- 
 du-Milieu), and descends to 
 
 Q^4 M. Les Ponts (3389'), where the road intersects the Sagne valley. 
 From Les Petits Ponls a road runs S.W. to the valley of Travers (diligence 
 see p. 168), reaching it between the railway stations of Xoiraigue and 
 Travers (p. 171). Near La Toiirne ('Inn) the road reaches the ridge of the 
 mountain (view), and then descends to MontmolUn^ where it crosses the 
 line from Xeuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds (p. 169). It next leads to Corcellcs 
 (1883', p. 174), and fmally to 
 
 123|4 M. Neuchatel. 
 
 45. From Neuchatel to Pontaiiier through the Val 
 de Travers. 
 
 Railway C- Franco- Suisse" ) in 23j4 hrs. : fares 5 fr. 55, 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 
 5 c. — Comp. Introd. X. — This is the direct route from W. Switzerland to 
 Paris, by Dole, Auxonne, Dijon, etc. ; comp. Baedeker's Paris and 
 Northern France. 
 
 This Jura-railway (comp. p. 168) is a highly interesting line, and tra- 
 versing a very picturesque country for a considerable distance ; a scat should 
 be selected on the left (S.E. ) side. The most remarkable portions of the 
 line are between Xeuchatel and Noiraigue, between Boveresse and the last 
 tunnel above St. Sulpice, and between St. Pierre de la Cluse and Pontarlier. 
 The other parts of the line traverse green valleys, overshadowed by the 
 fir-clad mountains of the Jura range. 
 
 The Pontarlier line , running parallel with that to Yverdon 
 (p. 172) as far as stat. Auvernier, crosses the Seyon, and passes 
 through a short tunnel under the high-road to the Val de Tra- 
 vers and Le Locle. On issuing from this tunnel the traveller 
 enjoys a beautiful *view of the lake and the Alps (comp. p. 168). 
 The line traverses the vine-clad slopes of the hill, and then by 
 a lofty viaduct crosses the Gorge of Serrieres. Above the latter 
 stands the small castle of Beauregard. 
 
 The train now descends to stat. Auvernier (I72 M. distant 
 the hydropathic estab. of Chanelaz. pension 6 — 8 fr.), where the 
 Yverdon railway (p. 173) diverges to the 1.; then, again ascending, 
 it commands a view of the lake and the Alps. At the entrance of 
 the wooded ravine of the Reuse (the 1. bank of which the line 
 follows through the Val de Travers to its source near St. Sulpice, 
 p. 171), a lofty viaduct of the Yverdon line is visible far below 
 to the 1. The last glimpse of the lake down this romantic valley 
 is particularly picturesque. The train then enters a tunnel, high 
 on the N. slope of the valley, with the little river below to the 
 1. , almost under the station of Chambrelien (p. 170) on the 
 Neuchatel and Chaux-de-Fonds line. After passing through four 
 more tunnels, the train reaches stat. Noiraigue (2359'), at the 
 N. base of the Creux du Vent (4806'. p. 173). The valley, which 
 from this point to St. Sulpice bears the name of Val de Travers.
 
 FLErKlEIJ. -/.I. Route 171 
 
 iniw .siidik'iily <li;iii,m's its cliar^itti r. ainl tlir IJciisf flows Tiftweoii 
 cnmparatively level meadows. 
 
 Pedestrians may ascend the Creux du Vent ( p. 173 ) in 2 hrs. by a 
 steep path from Noiraipiie, and descend to Boudry or 81. Aubin (p. 174). 
 The view is far more striking when the ascent is made from this side 
 than from the lake. 
 
 The line now traverses level meadow-land , with the wooded 
 heights of the Jura on both sides. Along the hill-side to the r. 
 the road to Le Lode by Les Fonts winds upwards (comp. p. 170); 
 the road through the Val de Travers to Neuchatel has already 
 been visible from above Noiraigue. Next stat. Travers ('2392'), 
 near which is a tunnel. Near stat. Couvet, on the opposite side 
 of the valley, are mines of asphalt. Couvet (2418') is a picturesque 
 little town, the birthplace of Ferd . Berthoud , the inventor of 
 marine chronometers for determining the geographical longitude. 
 Here, and also at Metiers (see below), excellent P^xtrait dAbsynthc 
 is manufactured. Diligence to Metiers twice daily ; to Le Locle, 
 see p. 168. 
 
 The line again ascends the N. slope of the valley. Far down 
 on the opp. side lies Motiers(-Travers) (2392'), where Rousseau 
 spent some time by permission of the Prussian governor Lord 
 Keith, after having been expelled from Yverdon by the government 
 of Bern , and wrote his 'Lettres de la Montague', which caused 
 so great a sensation at Geneva. 
 
 The lofty stat. Boveresse is situated some distance to the 8.W. 
 of the village of that name. Below, in the valley, lies Fleurier 
 (2454'), with extensive watch-manufactories. The train traverses 
 a long tunnel , beyond wh.ich St. Sulpice (2553') lies below to 
 the 1. The scenery again becomes extremely picturesque. In the 
 defile of La Chaine, the Reuse, which probably flows by a sub- 
 terranean course from the Lac de TalUeres Al/.y M. to the N.E., 
 rises in the form of a considerable stream. 
 
 The line here attains its highest point; beyond the last tunnel 
 it enters a level green valley. At stat. Verritres (Les Verritres 
 Suisse.<y, 3061'), the last Swiss village, the French army under 
 Bourbaki crossed the frontier in Feb., 1871. The line crosses 
 the French frontier before Les Verrieres de Jou.v (3015'). Near 
 St. Pierre de La Cttise the scenery again becomes interesting. The 
 defile of Ln Ciuse , which both the railway and the high-road 
 traverse, is fortified; the line can be closed by a gate, connected 
 by walls with the fortifications on the heights on both sides ; on the 
 1. rises the ancient Fort de Joux, strengthened by modern works, 
 and by a new fort on a rocky eminence to the r. Mirabeau was 
 imprisoned here in 1775 through the influence of his father; and 
 the negro chieftain Toussaint TOuverture of Haiti was confined 
 in the F'ort de Joux by order of Napoleon, and died here. 
 
 The line crosses the Doubs (which drains the Lake of St. 
 Point, 33/4 M. to the S.W., and here emerges from a valley to
 
 172 Route 46. YVERDON. From Neuchatel 
 
 the 1.1- the 1. bank of which it skirts as far as Pontarlier ; sce- 
 nery picturesque. 
 
 Pontarlier (2854 ft.) (Hotel National; Croix Blanche) , a small 
 French town on the Daubs. On arriving , passengers' luggage is 
 examined at the station. Opposite the station are the ^College' 
 and Telegraph Office. The large building with the turret to the 
 r. of the railway, as the station is approached, is the Hospital. 
 (Diligence from the stat. to Salins.J 
 
 46. From Neuchatel to Lausanne and Geneva. 
 Lake of Neuchatel. 
 
 Swiss Western Railway. To Lausanne 2iJ4 — 3ij2, to Geneva 
 3i|4— 4i|2 In-s. ; fares to Lausanne 7 fr. 40. 5 fr. 30, 3 fr. 80 c, to Geneva 
 12 fr. 80, 9 fr. 10, 6 fr. 50 c. Comp. Introd. X. — Some of the trains ( ex- 
 press) go to Lausanne, others to Morges ; there is in any case direct cor- 
 respondence at Lausanne with the trains to Geneva, and at Morges with 
 those to Geneva and Lausanne. — The Steamboat on the Lake of Neu- 
 chatel plies between Neuchatel and 3Iorat (R. 42), and between Neuchatel 
 and Estavayer only. 
 
 ■The Steamboat on the Lake of Geneva from Lausanne (Ouchy) 
 or Morges to Geneva (in 3 and 2i|2 hrs. respectively) is far preferable to 
 the railway, affording a more complete sui-vey of the beautiful scenery. — 
 The railway from Yverdon to Bussigny (where Ivlont Blanc and the moun- 
 tains of Savoy first become visible) is uninteresting. Between Xeuchatel and 
 Geneva a seat on the left should be selected (between Bussigny and 
 Lausanne on tlie right). 
 
 Tlie Lake of Neuch&.tel (1427'), the Lacus Eburodunensis of 
 the Komans , is far inferior in beauty to the lakes of the higher 
 Alps; the N. bank, however, with its vine-clad slopes, bounded 
 by the precipitous Jura Mts. , from which the Alpine chain 
 from the Bernese Oberland to Mont Blanc is visible , is pictu- 
 resque. The lake is 25 M. in length, and, at its broadest part 
 between Aurernier and Port Alban, nearly 6 M. in width; greatest 
 depth 500'. 
 
 At the N. extremity of the lake is situated St. Blaise, 1^2 ^^• 
 to the E. of which the Thitle emerges ; in the background rises 
 the Jolimont (p. 10). About 3 M. to the S.E. is the influx of 
 the Broye (p. 164). The follow^ing steamboat-station is Cu- 
 drefin, then 
 
 Estavayer (1538'), a small town of some importance, with 
 the ca-tle ofChilnaux, the architecture of which is worthy of notice. 
 The following stations on the S.E. bank are Font and Cheires ; 
 on the opposite side Concise SiWA. Corcelles., seep. 174. On a pro- 
 montory extending far into the lake, is situated Yvonand, where 
 Roman mosaic pavements have been found, one of which is pre- 
 served in the Museum at Yverdon. At the extremity of the 
 promontory the Mentue falls into the lake. 
 
 Yverdon (1433') (motel de Londres, R. 2, B. IV2 fr- ; *Croix 
 Federale). the Roman Eburodunum, situated at the S. extremity of 
 the Lake of Neuchatel. at the influx of the Toile. or Thiele, affords
 
 to Genera. BOUDRY. 46. Route. 173 
 
 several picturesque walks and tine points of view. This town 
 (pop. 5889, 561 Rom. Cath.) was for twenty years (1805 — 25) 
 the scene of the labours of the philanthropic Pestalozzi. This 
 truly practical philosopher , a native of Ziirich , first devoted his 
 time to theology and jurisprudence, but soon abandoned these 
 pursuits , and interested himself exclusively in ameliorating the 
 moral condition of the lowest classes. Pestalozzi's method of 
 teaching, it is well known, consists in the communication of 
 instruction by an inmiediate address to the youthful sensations 
 or conceptions, and effecting the development of the child by 
 constantly calling all his powers into exercise. During the life 
 of this great and good man his exertions were not attended with 
 the success they merited ; but his method has since been exten- 
 sively adopted, and its advantages are now thoroughly appre- 
 ciated. 
 
 The ancient Castle, erected by Conrad of Zahringen in 1135, 
 formerly the scene of Pestalozzi's exertions , contains the public 
 schools , the Town Library, and the Museum ; in the latter are 
 preserved numerous objects from the ancient Swiss lake-villages, 
 as well as some Roman and other antiquities. The Deaf and 
 Dumb Asylum enjoys a high reputation. Near the town there 
 is a much frequented Sulphur-Bath (Hotel and Pension). 
 
 An interesting excursion to the Lac de Joux is described in R. 47. 
 The Chasseron (.5282'), whicli rises from the Jura range to the S.W. of 
 Yverdon, deserves a visit for the sake of tlie line view from its summit. 
 As far as i>(e. Croix (2 lirs. from the top) diligence twice daily in 
 3')4 hrs. Ste. Croix is noted for the manufacture of musical boxes, upwards 
 of 50,000 of which are annually exported. 
 
 The Railway from Neuchatel to the first stat. Auvemier 
 has been described at p. 170. The line here quits the lake 
 (the Pontarlier branch diverges to the r. ) , to which it returns 
 beyond Bcvaix (see below). 
 
 Colombier produces one of the most esteemed Neuchatel 
 wines (p. IGG). In the vicinity some remarkable Roman anti- 
 quities have been discovered. Beyond the village, on the bank of 
 the lake, lies the picturesque estate of Le Bied. After passing the 
 station for Boudry , the valley of the Reuse is crossed (p. 170) 
 by a lofty bridge. To the 1., near 
 
 Cortaillod (1594'), where the best red wine in the canton 
 is produced, is the mouth of the Reuse, which descends from the 
 Val de Travers. Near the village of Troisrods (Ui9'2'), imme- 
 diately above the station and below the Pontarlier line, is a con- 
 siderable stalactite grotto. Boudry (1545') (Maison de Ville), the 
 birthplace of Marat, lies on the r. bank of the Reuse, at some 
 distance to the r. of the line. 
 
 The Creux du Vent (4806'), ahout I'r.hr. to the W., is frequently ascended 
 from Boudry ( comp. p. 171). The summit is in the form of a basin, 500' 
 in depth, sliaped like ;•. lior,< • - shoe, and iiearlv S JI. in circumference.
 
 174 Route 40. GRANDSON. From Neuchntel 
 
 Previous to a change in tlie weather, this crater -like basin is lillcd with 
 surging clouds of white vapour. M'hicli rise and fall like the steam in a 
 boiling cauldron, but do not quit the hollow. The phenomenon seldom 
 lasts above an hour. A gun-shot produces a peculiar echo, resembling that 
 of a volley of musketry. The current of air which prevails in this 'hollow 
 of the wind', is frequently so violent as to force back objects of considerable 
 weight thrown from the brink. The rare plants and minerals found here 
 are a source of attraction td the scientitic. 
 
 Beyond stat. Bevaix (1571') the line re-approaohes the lake, 
 which it now skirts as far as Yverdon. The Creu.v du Vent may 
 also be ascended from the next stat. Oorgier St. Aubin (i555'J. 
 Opposite, on the S.E. bank, lies the little town of Estavayer 
 (p. 172). To the r., on the slope of the hill, is situated the 
 well-preserved castle of Vauxmarcus (1581'); then La Lance 
 (to the r.) , formerly a Carthusian convent , now a chateau and 
 park of Count Pourtales. At Concise (146G') (Ecu de France), 
 where the line crosses an arm of the lake by means of an 
 embankment, a great number of ancient flint axes, saws, chisels, 
 and other tools were found in 1811 at the bottom of the lake, 
 dating from the period of the lake-villages ('Pfahlbauten" ). Near 
 Corcelles, situated to the r. on the highroad, a little farther on, 
 three blocks of granite, 8 to 10' in height, placed in the form 
 of a triangle, are visible from the line. According to some they 
 were erected by the Swiss in commemoration of the battle of 
 Grandson which was fought in the vicinity , but they are more 
 probably of Celtic origin. 
 
 Battle of Grandson. When Charlex tJie Bold of Burgundy had by 
 treachery gained possession of the castle of Grandson, and, contrary to 
 the stipulation, put the Swiss garrison to death, he abandoned his secure 
 position at Grandson, and seized the castle of Vauxmarcus, which com- 
 mands the road. Here he was surprised and signally defeated by the 
 Swiss, justly infuriated by his cruel breach of faith. An enormous booty, 
 valued at upwards of 25(),000 /. sterL, fell into the hands of the victors, 
 together with numerous trophies now distributed among the various 
 arsenals of the Confederation. Among other treasures were two diamonds 
 of great value from the crown -jewels , one of which now adorns the 
 French, the other the papal crown. 
 
 Grandson (Lion d' Or ; Croix Rouge) is the next station of im- 
 portance. The line skirts the bank of the lake, and passes through 
 the precincts of the picturesque old Castle with its ivy-clad 
 towers , where a collection of antiquities and other objects is 
 preserved. The ancient Church with its quaint pillars once 
 belonged to a Benedictine abbey. Grandson is undoubtedly of 
 Roman origin. The feudal proprietors of the castle were among 
 the most powerful in Switzerland as early as the 9th cent. 
 Otto of Grandson , the last of his race, was killed in a duel in 
 1399 by Gerhard of Estavayer; his tomb is in the cathedral of 
 Lausanne (p. 192). 
 
 The train skirts the S.W. extremity of the lake, crosses the 
 Thiele. and enters the stat. of Yverdon near the steamboat quay. 
 
 Yverdon, see p. 172.
 
 (0 (ievera. ' NYON. 40. Route. 175 
 
 Here the line quit.s the Lake of Neuchatel, and enters tlie 
 broad valley oi" tlie Toile, or Thitle, near stat. Ependea. To the 
 W. rises the long chain of the Jura, the Aiguille de lieaulmes, 
 Mont Suchet, and between them in the distance the Mont d'Or, 
 the Dent de Vaullon (p. ITT), and Mont Tendre. After passing 
 stat. Chavorney-Orbe (p. ITG) and Eclt-pens-la-Sarrfiz, the line 
 enters the picturesque, wooded ravine of the Venoye (connected 
 with the Toile by means of a canalj, near the beautifully situated 
 town of Cossonay (Hotel d'Angleterre). 
 
 As the valley expands, a distant prospect of the long cliain 
 nl' the mountains of Savoy is obtained. Beyond Bussiyny a brantli 
 line diverges to the r., affording a more direct «",omniunication 
 with the line to Morges and Geneva on the N. bank of tlie lake 
 (see below). From the curve which the line here forms, a glimpse 
 is obtained in favourable weather of the snow-tields of Mont 
 Blanc, through an opening in the mountains. The station of 
 Mori/es is nearly '/.j M. from the steamboat quay (p. 191). 
 
 Steamboat hence, or from Lausanne (Ouchy) , to Geneva, 
 see K. 00. 
 
 The line towards Lausanne unites with the main-line of the 
 N. bank of the lake at lienens. The station at Lausanne is 
 situated on the slope between the town and Ouchy ([>. 191). 
 
 Lausanne, see p. 191. 
 
 The train from Lausanne to Geneva (comp. Map, p. 188) 
 returns by stat. ReneuK. Near Morges (}>. 191) the line approaches 
 the Lake of Geneva, but skirts the N.W. side of the village. 
 To the N.W., above the valley of the jl/orj/e;*, which is here crossed, 
 rises the castle of Vufflem (p. 191). St. Prex\ the next village, 
 lies to the 1., on a promontory extending into the lake. Aubonne- 
 Allamdn is the station (omnibus 40 c.J for the small town of 
 Aubonne. situated on the hill, I'/'i M. to the N. As BoUe is 
 approached , the Signal de Bougy (p. 191), a celebrated point 
 of view , rises to the r. The district between the Auhonne and 
 the Fromenthouse , which the line crosses beyond stat. Gland, 
 is termed La Cote, and is noted for its white wine, one of 
 the nmst highly esteemed in Switzerland. 
 
 Near Nyon the line skirts I^rangins with its castle (p. 190), 
 and again approaches the lake. To the r. rises the Dole (550;')') 
 (p. 190). the highest of the Jura Mts. Ctligny , Coppet, and 
 Versoix are the next stations (p. 189). The narrowest part of 
 the lake is at stat. Genthod-Bellevue (comp. p. 188). Chambtsy, 
 the last station before Geneva is reached, is only lVt>M. distant 
 froni the French frontier. On the opposite bank the woodeil 
 hills and picturesque villas in the environs of (ieneva become 
 visible, above which, in favourable weather, Mont Blanc and the 
 Savoy range are seen. The station at (Jeneva ociupies a lofty
 
 176 Route 47. ORBE. 
 
 position on the r. bank of the Rhone', at the extremity of the 
 new Rue dii Monthlanc, Avhich leads direct to the lake. 
 
 Geneva, see p. 177. 
 
 The traveller who desires to return, and is already acquainted with 
 the above route, may vary liis journey agreeably by proceeding from 
 Eolle (p. 190) to iSt. Georges,^ 9 31. to the N.W., at" the" foot of the Col de 
 Marcheiruz (4970'), over which a good road leads to (9 31.) Le Brassus 
 (3412') C'Hdtel de la Lande; - H6tel de France). 
 
 The ascent from St. Georges to the Col atibrds a succession of magni- 
 ficent views over the Lake of Geneva and the Rhone Valley, and the 
 descent to Le Brassus commands a prospect of the Lac de Joux and the 
 Dent de Vaulion. 
 
 From Le Brassus a road skirts the W. bank of the lake to Le Lieu 
 and (9 3L) Le Pont (p. 177). Diligence between Le Brassus and Le Pont 
 twice daily in 2 hrs. : one-horse carr. 10 fr. It is, however , preferable to 
 perform this journey by water, from Le Sen tier, a village at the S.W. 
 end of the lake, 2'j4 31. from Le Brassus (in 2 hrs., boat with one rower 
 3 fr.). From Le Pont to Orbe and Yverdon, see belov^^. 
 
 47. Lac de Joux. Dent de Vaulion. 
 
 An interesting excursion for one day: from Yverdon to Orbe by dili- 
 gence in 11)2 hr., or by railway (stat. Chavorney, p. 174, omnibus from the 
 station to Orbe 40 c); thence on foot in 4 hrs. to Le Pont. In the after- 
 noon to the Dent de Vaulion and the Sources of the Orbe. The next day 
 by diligence from Le Pont in i'^\-> hr. to stat. Cossonay (p. 175), or by Le 
 Brassus and the Col de 3Iarcheiruz to Rolle. Diligence between Le Pont 
 and Le Brassus twice daily in 2 hrs. (see above). 
 
 Orbe (1463') (Guillaume Tell; Maison de Ville), an ancient 
 town (pop. 1843, Rom. Oath. 76), picturesquely situated on the 
 river of the same name , was in the early part of the middle 
 ages the capital of Little Burgundy, to which period the two towers 
 of its castle (fine view from the terrace) and a mosaic pavement 
 discovered in the neighbourhood appertain. The first orthopaedic 
 establishment in Europe was founded here by Yenet, towards the 
 close of the last century. 
 
 The road to Le Pont passes by Romainmotier (2241 'J 
 (Couronne), a very ancient place, which owes its appellation to the 
 monastery founded here in the 6th cent, by St. Romain (Romani 
 Monasterium). The nuptials of Margaret of Austria and Philibert, 
 Duke of Savoy, were celebrated here in 1502. She had already 
 been affianced to Louis, Dauphin of France, and to the Infanta 
 of Spain, to which circumstance she jestingly alludes in an epi- 
 taph she composed on herself: 'Ci ijlt Margot la gente damoiselle 
 qua deux maris et si mourut pucelle', etc. 
 
 The road passes by Vaulion and the base of the Dent de 
 Vaulion to the village of Le Pont. Pedestrians leave the high 
 road 11/2 M. beyond Vaulion and take a footpath to the r., 
 which ascends to the summit of the Dent in 1 hr. ; descent to 
 Le Pont 1 hr. 
 
 From Orbe by V alio r be to LePont, good road (about the same 
 distance as by the "above route; diligence between Orbe and Ballaigues 
 once daily, be"tween Ballaigues and Vallorbe twice daily, but not between 
 >'allorbe "and Le Pont), a pleasant route gradually ascending, passing through
 
 W4^sv- ^ ^'k.. 
 
 ^^feK^^ ' 
 
 iU^^K,*^ 
 
 j^fe^^'i^-'^te^^ 
 
 ^m^ 
 
 ^%^, ;: 
 
 , 
 
 Su::^.:- u 
 
 
 ™**f*-^_, iji 

 
 PENT DE VAULION 47. Route. 177 
 
 tlic villages fif Mvtilr/ii'rand, La Ilitssille, Lignerolles (fine view), and Bal- 
 tai'jucs (tine retrospect of Orlie), in a mountain-valley; to flic N. Mont 
 d(Ji\ to the S. the Dent de Vaulion. 
 
 yij- M. Vallorbe ('2o2<»') ( Maisoii dc Ville), U\z M. from the Sources 
 of the Orlie CiOG'J), which {;ush with consideraiilc force from the rficks, 
 and are douhtless the subterranean discharge of the Lac de Jou.x (sec 
 below). They may he reached by leaving the road ^J^ M. beyond Vallorbe^ 
 and proceedinp to the r. for about iji hr. Rejoininp the road, the tra- 
 veller reaches the summit ot the pass, bounded on the 1. l)y the lofty and 
 precipitous slope of the Dent de Vaubon tsee below), the summit of which 
 may be attained in 1 hr. (fatipuinp ascent of •ja hr. thi-oufih thickets, then 
 across meadows inclining to tlie 1., and itassinp near a chalet). After de- 
 scending to the road by the same path, the pedestrian reaches Le Pont in 
 <(j hr. (The walk from Vallorbe t() thc-sources of the Orbe, the Dent de 
 Vaulion, and Lc Pont occuiiies 4'|-j hrs.) 
 
 1474 M. Le Pont {*Jnn) lies at the N. extremity of the Lac 
 de Joux (3310'), wliidi is G M. long, l'/2 ^- wide, and sep- 
 arated from the little Jmc Brenel by an embankment (with a 
 bridge, which gives the name to the village). On the N. side 
 of the Lac Brenet are seen some apertures, into which flow the 
 waters of the lake, forming 750' lower, after a subterranean 
 course of 4'/.) M., the sources of the Orbe (see above). 
 
 Lc Pont is situated on tlie S. side of the *Dent de Vaulion 
 (4877'), which on one side presents a barren and ruirged proci}iicc, 
 1600' high, and on the other a gentle, grassy slope. The sum- 
 mit is reached in l'/_>^ir. from Le Pont, and in 1 hr. from Vau- 
 lion (guide desirable). The view embraces to the S.W. the Val- 
 ley and Lac de .Tou\, more distant the Lac des Kousses, the 
 Noirmont, and the Dole; to the S.E. a considerable part of the 
 Lake of Geneva, and in the background the glaciers of Mont 
 Blanc and the Alps of the Valais ; from the S.E. to the E. the 
 chain of the Bernese Oberland. This is the most beautiful view 
 of the Jura, second only to that from the DOLe (p. 190). 
 
 48. Geneva. 
 
 Fr. G'eiilve., (icr. dcnf, Ital. Uiiierra. 
 Hotels. On the Lvfl Bank : R o t e 1 d c la M e t r o p o 1 e (PI. b), a large 
 estah. belonging to a companv ; 200 apartments in 3 stories, R. facing the lake 
 4, L. 1, B. I'l-.', D. e.vcl. W. at 1 o'cl. 4, at 5 ocl. 5, A. 1, Pension 8 fr. ; 
 Ecu de Geneve (PI. c), of the first class, frc(|ucnted bv Americans; 
 Cnuronne (PI. d), R. 3 fr. , L. sj^, B. li|o, table dMiotc e.xcl. W. at 1 
 o'cl. 3, at 5 and 7 o'cl. 4, A. 1 fr. ; these three large establishments com- 
 mand a view of the lake. "^JI o t e 1 d u Lac, good and not expensive, about 
 to be transferred to a new l)uilding opposite the Pont du Mont Blanc. — 
 ■Hotel du Rhone (PI. h.), view of the Rhone, no table d'hAte ; ■Hotel 
 Garni de la Poste, Place Bel-Air, R. 2, L. ij-.-. P.. li|4, A. 'jj fr. ; Hotel 
 Helvetia, also a restaurant. L^ion d'O r (PJ. i), Grand Aigle (PI. k), 
 both in the Rue du Rlume; Balance (PI. g). 
 
 The Hotels on the Jiight Bank of the Rhone (those situated on the Quavs 
 command a view of the Alps) are in winter protected from the 'Bise'(N.wind). 
 Hotel des Bergues (PI. a), opposite Rousseau's island; = Hot el de 
 Russie, new. elegantlv litted up, in the former Palais Fazv , Quai du 
 Montblanc, R. 3, B. I'j-.., L. and A. lij- fr. ; Hotel de la Pa'ix (PI. gg), 
 B.i:i)EKKi{j Switzerland. 5tU Edition. 12
 
 178 Route 48. GENEVA. Voituriers. 
 
 on the <juai tiu Mnntlilanc , and n( nr it II o t e 1 d'An Si 1 e t er r e etBeau 
 R i V a g e , on the <:^uai de Paquis, both new and of the first class. S c h w e i - 
 zerhof (PI. e), near the station-, Hotel Victoria (PI. m), opp. the 
 English Church, R. 2 fr. , B. l>|j, A. I'J.i fr. ; 'Hotel de Geneve, Rue 
 du Montljlanc 13, not far from the station, R. 2, B. liJ4, A. and L. 1 fr. 
 
 Pensions Alimentaires, very numerous on account of the great intlux ai' 
 strangers; So to3()0fr. per month. For families and single persons: Mme. B u - 
 scarl et (20()to25()fr.), Quai du Mont Blanc 9 ; Bo v et, Avenue des Paqui.s ; 
 P i c a u d (85 to 2flO fr.) , Quai des Eaux-Vivcs ; Mad. E. M a g n e n a t ( 15U fr. )., 
 Tranchees de Plainpalais 3; Baud (180 fr.), Chemin Pre 1 Eveque ; Flae- 
 g e 1 , Rue Pierre Fatio ; R u e g g , Rue du Rhone 92 ; F r o m o n t - J a c k s o n . 
 Rue Pradier 3; Veuve Piccard (150 fr.). Place de la Metropole 2; Veuve 
 Flouck, Place Bel-Air, au quatrieme-, Soeurs C r ocha t (SO— UK) fr. ). 
 Plainpalais, Chemin Dancet 18i ; Ben field. Place du Port 2. — For 
 students: Mme. Roussy (85 to 100 fr.), Rue du Rhone 29; Decosterd, 
 Rue des Allemands 8; Mayor, Rue des Allemands 14, etc. — Farther in- 
 formation may be obtained at the hotels and bookseller.s" shops. 
 
 Cafes. On the Left Bank: C a f e d u N o r d (PI. o), d e 1 a C o u r o n n t- 
 (Pl. p), and de Geneve, all on the Grand Quai ; 'du Mu.see, Corraterie., 
 opposite the Musee Rath, with garden; du Theatre (PI. r), with garden: 
 Claret; du Globe. — On the Right Bank: Cafe de la Post e (Pl.t), 
 near the English Church. — Beer. Bavarian at Ackcrmann's, Rue du 
 Rhone 92 , and J u t z , Chemin des Eaux-Vives 6 ; Macon and Lyons beer 
 may be procured at most of the Cafes, Geneva beer at the breweries out- 
 side the gates: Paquis Brewery (Lausanne road, PI. 1.3); Treiber 
 (Route de Chene, PI. C. 7). 
 
 Restaurants. Left Bank : CafeduNord (PI. o, see above) ; K r ii g e r - 
 Kegler , Luncheon-room, Place Bel-Air 4;Uettinger, Place de la Fuste- 
 riel; Vizioz, Rue du Rhone 30; Villars, Rue du Rhone 52; Dau- 
 benfeld, Baussont, both on the island; also at the diflerent hotels. 
 — Right Bank: Railway Restaurant. 
 
 Baths. De la Poste, Rue du Stand, well fitted up, hot, cold, 
 shower, vapour baths, etc.; Canel, Rue de THotel de Ville 11, etc. — 
 Lake Baths: swimming-school, and separate baths, at the new quay on 
 the 1. bank, outside the harbour, on the Vesenaz road, p. 18G. — Rhone 
 Baths ('Bains flottanis")., Quai pont de Bel-Air, for gentlemen and ladies, 
 two small swimming-basins ('jiiscines"^) , 40 c. per bath with towel ; sepa- 
 rate baths (30 c. — Baths in the Arve, very cold, ^j^ M. from the Place 
 Xeuvc : G r a n t h i e r a u t and H a s e n , both on the Chemin de TArve, 
 424 and 473. 
 
 Railway Station for Switzerland and France (Lyons, Chambery, etc.), 
 at the upper extremity of the Rue du Montblanc, r. bank. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Offices, Quai de la Coulouvreniere (PI. 21). Branch 
 Offices opp. the rail, station, and Rue Pierre Fatio 1, all open from 7 a. m. 
 to 8 p. m. 
 
 Diligences to Chamounv, every morning at 7, 7i|2, and 8, starting from 
 the Grand Quai, the Place du Rhone, and the Lion d'Or (p. 177). To 
 Annecy (p. 212) once daily, at 3 p. m. , from the Grand Quai; to Sa- 
 moiins and Sixt (p. 222) daily at 2 ocl. from the Rue de Rive 13. 
 
 Omnibuses from every hotel to the station, and also from the post- 
 office, fare 30 c. ; each article of luggage 15 c. ; to Fcruex (every hour) 
 50 c, Place Cornavin ; Moruex (in summer) at 8. 30 and 11. 30 a. m. 
 and G. 30 p. m. from the Rue de la Croix dOr 11, fare 1 fr. To the 
 Voirons, or Bons (p. 187) in summer Thursd. and Sund. at 5 a. m., 
 Sat. at 4 p. m. , from Rue Winkelried 4 , near the Hotel des Bergues. 
 Tramway to Carouge 10 c, stat. Place Neuve, near the theatre; Chene 
 20 c, from the Cours de Rive. 
 
 Voituriers. Kolliker, aux Paquis ; Regard, on the Terrassiere ; 
 Society Genevoise (A chard & Co.), Rue des Paquis 35, the drivers 
 of which wear a brown livery. One-horse carr. 15 fr. per day, two-horse 
 30 fr., everytliing included. — Fiacres per hour 2'|2, la course l'|v; fr.
 
 Shops. GENEVA. 48. Routt 179 
 
 Steamboats, Swi.ss Bank (N.j p. 188; Savoy li a n k (S.) p. 2U4. 
 PIlts of both at the Jardin Anglais (ii. ISlj. Tho expifd-s-stoamcr Boni- 
 vctrd C]). 188) starts IVom the «^uai du Montblauc, opp. the Hotel de Russie. 
 Boats for excursions on the lake (2 to 3 fr. per hour with, 80 c. 
 without boatman), near the steamboat-pier on the Grand-<iuai, the (^uai 
 du Montblanc, and tlie two jetties near the lighthouses. The English 
 U-atiotx'' are steadier than the 'voilliers'' or sailing-boats. It is prohibited 
 to approach the Pont des liergues on account of the dangerous rapidity of 
 the stream. 
 
 Shops. The most tempting are those on the Grand-Quai , tlie Rue du 
 Khune, the Rue de la Ccn-raterie (1. bank), the <iuai des Bergucs, and the 
 Rue du Montblanc (r. bank). Geneva is celebrated for its watches and 
 jewellery ; the designs for the latter are for the most part borrowed from 
 the French, and the principal markets for the articles themselves are Italy 
 and the Levant. In Geneva 70,(X)U watches are manufactured annually 
 (comp. p. 169). Among the watchmakers of repute may be enumerated V e u v e 
 Vac her on and Comp., Rue Tour de Tile 3; Patek, Philippe and 
 Gomp., Grand-<iuai 22 ; Gol a y - Leresche, Quai des Bergues 31 and 
 Place du Port 1 (on the (hand-(iuai) ; S. Mercier, Place du Rhone 42; 
 Ekegren, Rue du Rhone 88, au troisieme. — Engravers: 31. L. Bovy 
 especially for medals. Rue Rousseau 18; Bo vet et Fol, Petite Fusterie 1. 
 Mountain-shoes: Miiller, Place du Molard. Trunks and other travelling 
 requisites: Isenring, Place du Lac 2. Carved wood, musical boxes, etc. : 
 M a u c h a i n , next door to the Jletropole. 
 
 Booksellers. G e o r g , Rue de la Corraterie 10 ; Monroe, Place des 
 Beriiius 1: 31 e n z , Place du Molard 2. 
 
 Newspapers, periodicals, etc. in the Societe dc Lecture, on the 
 upper lloor of the Musee Acaderaique, Grand' Rue 11; cards of admission 
 procured from mouibers. 
 
 Exhibition of Art (permanent.) of the Sociiti des Amis des lieau.r-Arls, 
 in the handsome new Athenee. Admission 1 fr. 
 
 Physicians. Dr. Me teal f, (^uai du Montblanc 3; Dr. L. Appia, 
 If lie des Chanoines 5; Dr. Landesmann (hom«jeopathic) , Rue du Mar- 
 chc 34. — C/iemists. Geo. Baker, Place des Bergues 3; Ilahn, Place 
 Lougemalle, etc. 
 
 Bankers. L o m bard O d i e r a n d C o m p., Petite Corraterie ; K o h 1 e i 
 and Comp., Rue de la Corraterie 10. 
 
 English Church on the r. bank, near the Hotel des Bergues (PI. a). 
 Geneva (1'24H'), with 47,581 inhab. (20,095 Horn. Cath.), 
 capital of the smallest canton except Zug, is the richest and most 
 populous town in Switzerland. The entire canton has a population 
 of 94,116, of whom 30,000 are aliens. 
 
 The town is situated at the S. extremity of the lake, at the 
 point where the blue waters of the Rhone emerge with the swift- 
 ness of an arrow; the Arve flows into this river below Geneva. 
 The Khone surrounds the little Quartier de Vile, and divides the 
 town into two parts: on the r. bank is the Quartier St. Gervaiif, 
 the smallest, chiefly inhabited by the industrial classes until the 
 opening of the railway, since which it has been considerably 
 embellished; on the N. side squares of handsome houses occupy 
 the site of the ancient fortilications. 
 
 Seen from the lake, Geneva presents a very imposing appear- 
 ance, the banks of tlie Rhone being flanked with broad quays 
 and substantial buildings. The interior of the older part of the 
 town by no means produces a corresponding elTect, and the 
 streets, with a few exceptions, are narrow, steep, and crooked. La 
 
 1'2*
 
 180 Route 48. GENEVA. Rous..^eau's Island. 
 
 Corraterie, the ainieiit fosse, is celebrated in the annals of the 
 town-]"; les Rues Basses, a Ions series of streets which intersect 
 the town from E. to W. (Rue des AUemands, du Marche, etc.)- 
 and the Rue du Rhone. 
 
 The two halves of the city, wliich are separated by the Rhone, 
 are connected by means of six bridges. The liiuhest of these, 
 ^thc handsome ""Tont du Mont Blanc, completed in 1862, leads 
 from the Rue du Mont Blanc, a broad street descending from the 
 railway-station, to the Jardin Anglais (see below), and with the 
 latter forms the central point of attraction to visitors in summer, 
 lietween the Pont du Mont Blanc and the Font des Bcryues is Rous- 
 ^' seau's Island, united to the latter by a suspension bridge, and 
 plantcil witli trees (small cafe). In the centre stands the bronze 
 otatue of the 'wild self-torttiring sophist' himself, executed by 
 Pradier (1834). 
 
 Handsome quays with numerous shops extend along both 
 banks of the river in the vicinity of the^e bridges. The principal 
 (if these are the Quai des Bergues on the r., and the Grand Quai 
 on the 1. bank. The Quai du Mont Blanc, extending from the 
 Pont du Mont Blanc towards tlie N.E.. on the r. bank of the lake, 
 affords a magnificent survey of the *Mont Blanc group, which is 
 visible almost in its entire extent , and presents a strikingly beau- 
 tiful appearance on clear evenings. An idea of the relative, alti- 
 tudes , which can never be adequately appreciated at Chamouny 
 itself, is obtained from this point of view. Thus Mont Blanc it- 
 self is 15,781' in height, whilst the Aiguilles du Midi on the 1. 
 are 12,608' only. Farther to the 1. are the Grandes Jorasses and 
 the Dent du Geant; in front of the Mont Blanc group are the 
 Aiguilles Kouges; then, more in the foreground, the Mole, an 
 isolated pyramid rising from the plain ; the snowy summits of the 
 Aiguilles d'Argentiere and the broad Buet; to the extreme 1. the 
 long ridge of the Voirons, which terminate the panorama on the 1., 
 while the opposite extremity is formed by the Great and Little 
 Saleve. The corner-house of the Quai and Rue du Mont Blanc, 
 formerly the Palais Fazy, is now the Hotel de Russie ; tlic reliefs 
 on cither side of the portal represent (r.) armorial bearings and 
 weapons, and (1.) an eagle with a key rising above Geneva to- 
 wards the sun (the arms of the city). — On the r., farther up in 
 
 t On the night of Dec. 11th , 1602, the Savoyards attempted to obtain 
 possession of Geneva , and would have scaled tlie wall of the Corraterie 
 if the citizens had not promptly repulsed them. A Fountain (PI. 25) 
 in granite (designed by a sculptor of Munich), erected in 1857 at the W. 
 extremity of the Rue des AUemands, commemorates this event. Beneath 
 arc two reliefs representing the defeat of the assailants , and Theod. de 
 Bezc returning thanks to Gotl : aT>f»ve, a group of soldiers scaling the walls, 
 surmounted by a statue (emblematical of the town of Geneva), armed with 
 lance and buckler.
 
 Jardin Anglais. GENEVA, 48. Route ISl 
 
 the Rue du Mont Blanc, is the Enylish Cliurch, a small and taste- 
 fully built Gothic structure. 
 
 The Quai de.<i Paquifi, planted with trees, forms the continua- 
 tion of the Quai du Mont lilanc, and extends to the Jctf'e, or 
 pier, which is also adorned with trees and furnished with benches. 
 The latter affords another fine view of the Alps , as well as a 
 eood survey of the city itself. (The lliu^st view of Mont Blanc 
 is obtained from the Pavilion de I'regny , p. 180.) l>eyond the 
 .letee, as far as the Villa Plantamour, extends the new Quai du 
 Leman, adorned with' handsome villas. 
 
 Near the Pont de la Machine, the next liridge below t.lie is- 
 land, is a large building containing an HijdrauUc. Machine which 
 supplies the public fountains and a great number of houses with 
 river water. At the extremity of the island are the Slaughter- 
 houses (Boucheries, PI. 4); at the entrance are five eagles in a 
 cage, the heraldic emblems of the canton, supported at the ex- 
 pense of government. 
 
 On the iS. bank of the lake (1. bank of the Rhone), on the 1. 
 of the traveller approaching froui the }*<uit du Montblanc, rises the 
 National Monument , a bronze group of Helvetia and Geneva 
 by ])orer, on a lofty pedestal commemorating the union of Geneva 
 with the Confederation in 1814. ■ — Farther up the lake extend 
 the pleasant grounds of the Jardin Anglais. To the 1. of the 
 entrance is a column with a barometer, thermometer, and hydro- 
 meter; in the centre a tasteful fountain. In the A'/o.s^j/e, 'opposite 
 the Hotel de la Mctropole, is a *ReIief of Mont Blanc which 
 merits a visit (on Sundays and Thursday.-; from 11 to 15 admission 
 gratis; at other times '/-i fr.), made of lime-wood, 24' in length, 
 and alTording a good general idea of the relative heights of the 
 'monarch of mountains' and his vassals. It comprises the mountains 
 from the Col de Bonhomme to the Great St. Bernard. 
 
 In this neighbourhood two granite blocks appear above the 
 surface of the lake, termed the Pierres du Aiton , on which, as 
 tradition affirms, the Romans once offered sacrifltes to Neptune, 
 riiey are doubtless erratic blocks, similar to those met with on 
 the Salcve and other places in the vicinity, deposited by the 
 glaciers which probably covered the whole country at a very 
 remote period (see Introd. XIV). 
 
 If the traveller follow the side-street which leads from the 
 (irand Quai opposite the above-mentioned Kiosque, and ascend 
 a few paces, he will reach the Promenades de St. Antoine., well 
 shaded grounds laid out on part of the old ramparts, and afford- 
 ing a beautiful view of the lake. On an eminence to the I. 
 (S.lv), at some distance from the town, is situated the new 
 Russian Church, with its glittering gilded domes, erected by 
 fontributions from the Imperial and other Russian families. The 
 interior is worthy of inspection.
 
 182 UoaU 48. GENEVA. ('.ithcdxil. 
 
 In a iieiglibouriiig sticpt, Rue Verdaiiic 15, is the. Public 
 Library (PI. 3), open from 11 to 1 (entrance by the Salic de 
 Lecture, fee 1 fr.), occupying the upper story of the CoUeiie. 
 It was founded in 1551 by Bonivard (p. 198), and in 1858 
 united to the grammar-school founded by Calvin. 
 
 In the fii\st room are the portraits of the most celebrated characters 
 of the wars of the Reformation ; in others those of the Swiss reformers, etc. 
 Carefully preserved under glass cases are numerous Aidographs and manu- 
 scripts of Calvin, Beza, Mclanchthon, Luther, Bonivard, Rousseau, St. Fran- 
 cis de Sales, St. Vincent dePaul, etc.; also a variety of curious documents 
 and miniatures, forming part of the treasures of Charles the Bold (p. 174) 
 taken at Grandson. 
 
 The *Cathedral (-S^^ Pierre, PI. 5), completed in 1024 by tlic 
 Emperor Conrad II., is in the purest Pomanesque style; tlie ex- 
 terior was disfigured in the 18th cent, by the addition of a 
 Corinthian portico. Tlic sacristan's (concierge) residence is bcliind 
 the church, or he may be found in the Hoye du concierye' adja- 
 cent to the church (fee !/.> fr.). 
 
 Interior. Stained-glass windows and carved stalls of the IDth cent. ; 
 the monument of the Duke Henri de Rohan (chief of the Protestants under 
 Louis XIII.), who fell at Rhcinfelden (p. 18) in 1638, of his wife Mary, de 
 SulUj , and his son Tancrede ; the black marble sarcophagus rests on two 
 lions ; the duke is represented in a sitting posture ; the monument has been 
 restored since its destruction in 1798. Beneath a black marble tombstone 
 in the nave, lies Jean de Drogn'.er (d. 1476), president of the Council of 
 Constance. A black monument in the S. nave is sacred to the memory 
 of Arjrippe d'Aubir/ne (d. 1630), an eminent author and confidant of Henry IV. 
 of France; the Republic of Geneva, where he died in exile, erected this 
 monument in gratitude for services which he had rendered. The pulpit, 
 a modern work, contains a chair once used by Calvin. 
 
 No. 11 Rue des Chanoines (PI. 16), to the W. of the Cathe- 
 dral, is the House of Calvin, occupied by him from 1543 until 
 his death in 1564. He was interred in the now disused ceme- 
 tery of Plain-Palais , but the spot cannot be recognised , as the 
 great reformer expressly forbade that any monument should be 
 erected over his remains. 
 
 In the immediate neighbourhood, Grand' Rue No. 40, is the 
 house where Jean Jacques Rousseau was born (1712, d. 1778). 
 
 The Musee Academique (PI. 19), Grand' Rue 11, may be 
 visited daily, fee 1 fr. ; the zoological department is open to the 
 public on Sundays and Thursdays, from 11 to 3 o'clock. 
 
 Among the most remarkable of its contents are Swiss specimens of 
 natural history, geological collections by Saussure^ collections ot fo.ssils 
 by Brogniart and De Candolle, zoological collections by Boissier and Netker, a 
 physiological cabinet by A. Pictel, and extensive botanical c o 1 1 e c t i o n .s 
 bequeathed to the town in 1868 by the heirs of Baron Delessert. — The 
 51 u s c u m o f A n t i q u i t i e s and Medals, on the first floor, contains (in 
 addition to some Egyptian relics) a silver shield with figures in bas-relief, 
 found in the Arve in 1721. 
 
 The Reading R o o m (p. 179) is in the upper story. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville (PI. 13), a massive building in the Flo- 
 rentine style , is only remarkable for inclined planes in the in- 
 terior being substituted for staircajcs, by whicli singular arrangement 
 the counsellors in ancient times were enabled to ride, or be
 
 Miisee Rath GENPIVA. /•*>■ Route 183 
 
 (■oiiv('y('(l ill lit(«Ms, io or trom tlic cKiiMril-chaiiilK'rs. The cdiJlce, 
 wliich lias been recently rerftored , is appropriated to the use of 
 tlic eaiitonal and municipal aathoritie.s. 
 
 The Arsenal (I'i. 1) (opposite to the Hotel de VilleJ which 
 contains ancient and modern armour, the ladders used by the 
 Savoyards in their unsuccessful enterprise (p. 1«S0) etc., is al- 
 ways open to the piil)lic. 
 
 Adjacent to the Hotel de Ville a pate leads to the shady 
 promenade of La Treille, which affords a beautiful view of the 
 Salcve. Adjoiiiinj: this terrace is the Botanic Garden, estab- 
 lished in 18i(3 by the celebrated De CandoUe; it is entered from the 
 Bastion Bourgeois, and also serves as a promenade. Piotanists will 
 here lind a valuable collection of living and preserved plants. 
 The fa^-ade of the greenhouse is ornamented with marble busts 
 of celebrated Genevese: Chambrey, Trembley, Ch. Bonnet, de 
 Saussure, .Senebier, and Rousseau ; opposite to these is a bust in 
 bronze of De Candolle. Near the Bastion opposite the Bota- 
 nical Garden is the new cdilice destineii for the reception of the 
 Academie, the Library, and Museum, commenced in 1867. Near 
 it, in the grounds, is a statue of David by Cliaponihre. 
 
 The Athenee, situated 8.K. of the Botanical Garden, is a 
 tasteful edifice in the Renaissance style, whose fa(;ade is adorned 
 with busts of six celebrated citizens of Geneva. It was erected 
 by the wife of the 'pliilhellenist' Eynard, and presented to the 
 Socicte' des Beaux-Arts. It contains lecture-rooms, a library of 
 works on the history of art, and an exhibition of objects of art (see 
 p. 179). 
 
 The Theatre in the Place Ncuve to the N.W. (IM. 24), 
 erected in 178'i, is generally closed during the summer. Theatrical 
 performances were long forbidden at Geneva by the austere 
 regulations of Calvin. When Voltaire caused his pieces to be 
 performed at Fernex (p. 186), almost in sight of the Genevese, 
 Ivousseau thus remonstrated with his great contemporary: 'Je ne 
 vous aime pas; vous avez corrompu ma rcpublique en lui don- 
 n:int des si)e('taclcs\ 
 
 The *Musee Rath (PI. 18), opposite the theatre, coutaining 
 a collection of pictures, casts, etc., was founded by the Russian 
 general Rath, a native of Geneva, and presented to the city by 
 his sisters. It has since been greatly extended. .Vdmission in 
 summer daily from 11 to 3 gratis; at other times, fee y->fr. 
 
 Vestibule: on the Leasts of mudern seulpturos, chietly by I'radier; 
 alsr) a picture by Odicr, representing Charles the Hold entering; a church 
 on horseback; to the r. the gates of the Baptistery of Florence by Ghibeiti, 
 the Graces by Canova, Plato by Piadier (original). Hall on the r. : casts 
 fiuin celebrated antiques: the Laocoon, the Athlete, the Venus de Bledicis, 
 the Gladiator, the Listening Slave, the E.xtraction of the Thorn, Torso 
 trom the Vaticnn , the Apollo IJolvedere, the Diana of Versailles, etc. — 
 IMcture Hall L (on the E. side); 71. L>.i<jardo)i , Honivards release; 
 51. Uornumj, Bonivard in prison (p. 198); 72. Lucjardon, Arnold von Melch-
 
 184 Route 48. GENEVA. History. 
 
 thai-, 19. Calame, Forest at the Handeck ; 162. Favas, Portrait of General 
 Dufour; 2'J. Didaii ., Cascade of the Sallenche (Pisse-Vache) ; 28. Diday, 
 Oaks in a storm ; N. side 50. Hornung., Catherine de Medicis contemplating 
 the head of Admiral Coligny; 65. Liotard , Portrait of himself, in chalks ; 
 67. Liotard, Maria There.sa, in chalks; W. 49. Iloniiinr/, Death of Calvin : 
 121. A. Tojifer, Winter landscape; =55. Ilumhert, Cattle; 134. Wouvev- 
 mans. Crossing a river; 48. Van der Hehl ., Portrait; 117. D. Teniern ., A 
 smoker. In the centre of the hall a bust of General Rath. — Hall II. 
 (E.) U)0, 101. Landscapes by Salvaior Roxa; 130. Portrait of the Princess 
 Palatine Elizabeth Charlotte, Duchess of Orleans (d. 1722), by Rigaud. 
 
 Passing between the Musee Rath and the Theatre, the tra- 
 veller reaches the Place Neuve, in the new suburb Pluin-Palais. 
 (Horse-railway to Caroiige in '20 niin.. oonip. p. ITS.) On the 
 S.AV. side is the Conservatoire de Musique, behind wliich stands 
 a handsome buildinir, formerly a Freewdsons' Lodije, now a club- 
 house and cafe. To the S. of this is the new B&,tinientElectoral* 
 on which is inscribed the motto of Geneva: '■Po.^t tenebras lux'; 
 to the N. the Synagogue, in the Moorish style. 
 
 Leaving the latter, the traveller may cross the Pont de la 
 Coxdouvreniere., the lowest of the bridges, and passing the simple, 
 but handsome Rom. Cath. church of Noire Dame, proceed direct 
 to the railway-station. 
 
 History. The sights of Cieneva may easily be inspected in a day. Tlie 
 town possesses few monuments, and is cliietly interesting on account of the 
 prominent position it held during important historical periods. The prin- 
 ciples which since the 16th cent, have shaken Europe to its foundation-, 
 emanated chielly from Geneva. Calvin (who resided at Geneva from 
 1536 to 1564) and Rousseau (born at Geneva in 1712) were the gi-eat 
 advocates, one of religiou.s, the other of social reform; but, though kindred 
 in genius, these two illustrious men had no other qualities in common. 
 The former, after Luther the most eminent of the (dd reformers, used 
 his powerful intellect in propagating that pure faith which is now so 
 widely extended, whilst the other employed his tran.scendant powers of 
 mind in disseminating principles, generally considered to conduce neither to 
 the good nor the happine.ss of mankind. Geneva has also given birth to the 
 naturalists de Luc, Boniief, and de Sau.txure, the botanists de Candolle and 
 E. BoisRier, the political ecommiist «S'<///, the historian Sis^mondi., the natural 
 philosophers de la Rive., J. Picfet , and many other distinguished savants. 
 A^ecke)\ minister of Louis XVI., and his daughter, Madame de Stai'l, were 
 also natives of Geneva. A country so limited in extent (the canton is only 
 15 miles long by as many broad) could never have much prominence in a 
 political point of view. ' When I ahake nii/ in'g, I powder all the republic ■, 
 was the well known sarcasm of Voltaire. '// /.< a tempeat in a fjla^x of water, 
 was the contemptuous exclamation of the Emperor Paul, on hearing of 
 some commotion in the little republic. 
 
 The history of this small state may lie thus briefly summed up. We 
 lind it mentioned for the lirst time by Csesar: '■E.rtremvm oppidum Alio- 
 brogum est pro.rimumqut Helvetiorum finibim Genera. E.r eo oppido pons ail 
 Helvetios periinet, quern Caesar jvbct re.tcindi\ etc. (de Bello Gall. I. 6—8). 
 In common with the AUobrogi , Geneva fell under Roman rule ; in 482, 
 owing to the decay of the Roman Empire, it became subject to Burgundj»: 
 in the following cent, the Franks gained possession of it, and retained 
 their footing until the division of the empire. After subduing Burgundy 
 (1034), the Emperor Conrad II. caused himself to be proclaimed king here 
 for the second time, and was crowned by the Archbishop of Milan. 
 
 Succeeding ages were witnesses of a series of struggles between the 
 Bishops of Geneva, who aimed at the temporal power, the Counts of Ge- 
 neva, in their capacity of Prefects of the Empire, and the Counts or Dukes
 
 History. GENEVA. 48. Route. 185 
 
 uf Savoy, who contrived that the episcopal tlirone should be always occu- 
 pied by a member of their own family. In the midst of these dissensions, 
 the citizens of Geneva concluded an alliance with Froibui*: (lOlSj and Bern 
 (1526). Two parties were thus formed in the town, the Confederates (Ger. 
 Kidginossen, pronounced by the French 'lIiguenos\ whence the term ^Hugue- 
 HO^s■';, and the Mamelukes, partisans of the House of Savoy. 
 
 From these discords, which the treaty of St. Julien in lo3(^> only par- 
 lially api)eased, sjiruuij; tlie Reformed lieligion, to which Geneva im- 
 Miiiliat-ly attached itself. In 1035 the Bishop transferred his seat to Gex. 
 From that time the supremacy of the Romish Church ceased at Geneva; 
 the new doctrines wen; vigorously and successfully propagated by Farel, 
 and the Bishop was deprived of his power. 
 
 About tliis time a theologian, expelled from France on account of his 
 tenets, sought refuge at Geneva ; this was Jean C a 1 v i n , properly Caulvin 
 or C/iaiirin., who was born at Noy(ni in Picardy in 15(ft). He attached himself 
 to Fai-el, and so(ni obtained so great an influence in all the alVairs of church 
 and state, that be may be said to have exercised ;i complete sway in (Je- 
 iieva. He maintained Ills authority until bis death (15C4). He was iudefatig- 
 al)le in preaching, and his zeal against the corruptions of the Romish Church 
 was unbounded; his rhetorical powers were of the highest order, and lie 
 exercised an irresistible inlluence over his fellow-citizens. Austere in his own 
 mode of life, he imposed a most rigorous code upon others, and if the 
 Bishop's .sway had been tyrannical, Calvin's was not less so. But whilst 
 vindicating the liberty of conscience, he too frequently forgot his own 
 principles and the behests of the Gospel he advocated. Castellio, one of 
 ills earliest friends ami fellow-labfiurers, having ventured to difler from him 
 on the doctrine of predestinatii)n , was banished by him in loiO. Michael 
 -'Servelii.'!, a Spanish physician who had lied from Vienne in Uauphine in con- 
 sequence of having written a treatist; on the doctrine of the Trinity (cle 
 Triiiilatix errovibus) ., and who had only sojiuirned in Geni'va for a short 
 time, was arrested in 1553 by Calvin's order and condemned to the stake 
 a judicial murtler which has left an indelible stain upon the memory of 
 the stern and unforgiving reformer. The execution took place on the 
 C/iampel., a bill to the S. of the town. 
 
 The attempts made by the Dukes of Savoy at the commencement of 
 the 17th cent, to bring lieneva again under their sway were altortive. Many 
 Protestant princes, who recognised Geneva as the bulwark of the Reformed 
 ehiurli , contributed considerable sums of money towards the fortification 
 of the town. 
 
 In the I8tb cent. Geneva was greatly weakened by intestine troubles. 
 .1 e a n .1 a c (( u e s Rousseau, the son of a watchmaker, was born here in 
 1712, and remained in his native town during his early youth. His writings, 
 which exhibit ability of the highest order, exercised a great influence over 
 tile opinions of his age, but their tendency was highly injurious to society, 
 and he passed a troubled and agitated life. At. the instigation of 
 Voltaire and the university of Paris, and by order of the magistrates of 
 Geneva, his ^KmiU' and '■Coiilrat SoriaT were burnt in 1703 by the hang 
 man, as being Uiiin'raireSy .'^rainlaleii.r, iiiipiex et lemlatit.'i a detvuire la re- 
 ligion I'hn'fieniii' et lonx /e.s- goiipeineineiits\ He died at Ermenonville, near 
 Paris, in 1778. 
 
 On the 15th of April, 1798, the French entered Geneva, annexed the 
 town to the French Republic, and made it the capital of the Departenienf 
 itii Leinan. The events of 1814 having restored it to liberty, it became in 
 corporated with in the Swiss Cunfederatiim , of which it became the '2'2nd 
 Canton. The later history of Geneva, the rise of Radicalism within it 
 the ascendancy of James Fazy and his fall in 1804, are well known
 
 186 
 
 49. Environs of Geneva. Fernex. Mont-Saleve. 
 
 Co)ap. Map, p. ISS. 
 
 Omnibusos and carriages, sec p. 178. 
 
 In the vicinity of Geneva , both banks of the lake are stud- 
 ded with a succession of villas, in the erection of many of which 
 much taste has been displayed , and enormous sums have been 
 expended. Most of them are not accessible to the public; the 
 Villa Rothschild at Pregny, however, is an exception (see below). 
 
 Right (W.) Bank. At Les Dc'liccs, the Villa Tronchin, property of 
 Voltaire from 1755 — 1760; at Varcmbe, Mac Culloch ('Chateau de rim- 
 peratrice", formerly occupied by the Empress Josephine)-, at Le Rivagi., 
 the Villa of the Countess Gasparin; at Pregny, Adolf Rothschild 
 (a superb chateau recently built, visible from the lake •, magnificent 'view 
 of Mont Blanc from the pavilion in the park; adm. on Sundays and Thurs- 
 days 12 — 3 by cards, procured gratis at the hotels at Geneva). From Geneva 
 the road to Fcrnex may be followed as far as a (I M.) garden-pavilion, 
 where a finger-post indicates the way to Pregny to the r. {i^\-> M. to the 
 entrance of the garden). 
 
 Left (E.) Bank. At Les Eaux Vives, Favrc (a magnificent chateau 
 containinc: the Partinc rif Venus and Adonis, an early work of Canova) ; 
 Diodati (Villa of Lord Byron). 
 
 Walks. The most beautiful are on the right bank by 
 Petit- and Grand- Sacconnex along the brow of the hill, 
 which commands a view of the lake and Mont Blanc, as far as 
 Versoix (p. 189) on the bank of the lake, whence Geneva may 
 be regained either by railway or steamboat in l^/.) hr. — On the 
 left bank : from the Jardin Anglais (p. 181) along the quay, 
 beneath the shade of the avenue of plane-trees, skirting the lake 
 as far as (3 M.) Vesenaz (inn with garden by the lake); return 
 by Cologny (*Kestaurant at the Chalet Suisse, beautiful view of 
 Geneva and the lake), or farther to the E. by Chougny. From 
 both these roads Mont Blanc is visible. 
 
 Omnibuses leave the Place Cornavin every hour for Fernex 
 (Truite), situated 4'/.2 M. to the N. of Geneva. On the road, 
 from the highest part of the Petit Sacconnex, there is a charming 
 view of Geneva , the lake, and Mont Blanc. Fernex is in French 
 territory. Voltaire may be regarded as the founder of this little 
 town. He purchased the land in 1759, attracted industrious 
 colonists, founded manufactories, built his own dwelling, which he 
 dignified w.ith the title of Chateau, and erected a church, over 
 the portal of which he affixed the ostentatious inscription : Deo 
 erexit Voltaire. The 'patriarch' was proud of his new creation, 
 and often boasted of it. All memorials of him have long 
 since disappeared. Fine view from the garden-terrace of the house 
 (not accessible on Sund.). Within the last 30 years an old gar- 
 dener, who had been in the service of Voltaire, and retained a 
 perfect remembrance of him, still resided at Fernex, and retailed 
 to the curious many anecdotes and traits of character of the man 
 whose stupendous talents ui>doubtedly exercised a great, though 
 injurious influence, over the age in which he lived.
 
 I,KS VOUJONS !'J linnU I S7 
 
 ()iiiiiiliii.> tu ('iiif)U(jc (p. '2['.)) 15 1- . Ii(»i>('-r.iil\vay fmiu tlie 
 IMacc Nciivc in (Jcneva to the (iraiidc Place at ('arouse 10 c. 
 
 Tlie *Saleve (Petit and Grand), a long ridge of limestone 
 rock, rises 47-2 M. S.E. of Geneva, in the territory of Savoy 
 (France); its N.W. side is nearly perpendicular, whilst that on 
 the S.E. presents a gentle slope, covered with pastures and 
 imniorous habitations. The Petit-Sideve ('2946'), which forms 
 its N. extremity, extends to the Arve; it affords a beautiful 
 view, greatly surpassed however by that from the summit of the 
 (irand-SaVtve (4537'), which embraces the Lake of Geneva, the 
 .lura, the Cantons of (Jcneva and "Vaud , and part of France; 
 on the S.E. the prospect is bounded by Mont Blanc. Kefreshments 
 nil the summit in the Auherye des Treize Arhres. The still higher 
 prolongation of the Salove to the r. is termed Les Pitons; on the 
 highest point stands a stone tower. 
 
 The most direct road to the Grand-Salcve (9 M.) from Geneva 
 is by Carouye and Crevin (leaving the pond at the end of the 
 village to the r.); then through the G'rande Gonje by a winding 
 path. — The road passes by Chme (p. 214) and (T'/jM.) Mornex 
 (''Ecu de Gentoe; ^'Ecu de Sacoie; BeUevueJj a charming village 
 on the S. slope of the Petit-Salrvc, and a favourite summer resort 
 of the Genevese ; thence to Monnetier (*Inn), situated in the 
 dotilc which separates the Petit from the Grand-Salcve ; the 
 ruined towers at the end of the new road have been converted 
 into a pension (^Chateau de Monnetier). From this point the 
 ascent of the Petit-Sultve may be made in '/.> ^r., that of the 
 Grand-Saleve in I'/'i l>r- 
 
 Omnibus fi-din Geneva to Mornex, see p. 178. Donkeys at Mornix and 
 31<»nnetier 1 fr. per hr. Pedestrians may descend by the steps on the N. 
 side ('Pas des Echellcs'') to ('|jhr. ) Veij)iei\ whence Caroinjc (p. 213) is 
 reached in ^,'4 hr. 
 
 *Les Voirons (44(S0'; omnibus to its base, see p. 178), a long 
 mountain ridge N.E. of Geneva (see p. 180), affords a very 
 pleasing prospect, extending from the Dentd'Oche to the mountains 
 of the Lake of Annecy, and embracing the Mont Blanc chain. 
 On the E. side, 200 yds. below the summit, are situated two 
 ^Pensions, the Cludet (moderate), and the Hotel des Voirons, whence 
 l)eautiful walks may be taken to {1 hr.) le Prcdatre, the W. 
 summit; to the ancient monastery on the E. slope, and to the 
 pavilion on the highest peak. 
 
 The mountain is reached l>y a carriajie - road from Geneva by Boepc, 
 and by another via lions, the latter beinp; the more attractive (omnibuses) ^ 
 thence to tlie summit by carr. or cm foot. — The shortest route is from 
 Geneva to La Bcnjiie on the road to the Val de Sixt, by carria<;c in I'j.; hr. ; 
 thence by a t;ood bridle-path on the >»'. side of the mountain, commanding 
 a beautiful view of the lake and environs of Geneva, to the hotel in 2^l> 
 hrs. — From Geneva to Boe^ie 9 31., whence the hotel may be reached by 
 a steep foot-patli in 2 hrs. 
 
 The Fort de i'Ecluse and Perte du Rhone (in France) may be 
 reached by railway (Geneva-Lyons) in 1 hr., see p. 208.
 
 188 
 
 50. From Geneva to Martigny by Lausanne and 
 Villeneuve. Lake of Geneva [Northern Bank). 
 
 Railway. In 4iJ4 — 5i)o hrs. [to Lausanne lij-j— S'U, to Vevav 2i|4— 3i|4. 
 to Sion (R. G3( 5',4— G'l- hrs-l ; fares 12 fr. 35, 8 fr. SO, G fr. 20 c. (to Lausanne 
 4 fr. 90. 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 45 c, to Vevay 6 fr. 90, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 45 c, to Sion 15 fr. 
 50, 10 fr. 85, 7 fr. 75 c). From Geneva to Bex, and from Bouveret to Sion 
 (comp. E. 51) return - tickets, available for the same day only, are issued 
 (on Sundays to Bex at reduced fares available for 2 days), but between 
 Bex and St. Maurice return-tickets are not issued. — It should be particu 
 larly observed that passengers by all trains to and from Bex change car 
 riages at St. Maurice. — Comp. Introd. X. 
 
 Steamboats along the Northern Bunk far preferable to the railway, 
 aflbrding a more perfect survev of the scenery: to Morges (4 fr., 1 fr. (50 c.) 
 in 2i|2hrs., to Ouchv (Lausanne, 5'fr., 2 fr.) fn 3— 31(4 hrs., to Vevay (G fr. 
 50, 2 fr. 60 c.) in 4— 4'|4 hrs., to Villeneuve (7 fr. 50, 3 fr.) in 4«|4 — 5 hrs. ; 
 to Bouveret (5 fr., 2' jo fr.) in 4^14 — 5 hrs. Express-steamer Bonivard, starting 
 from the Quai du Montblanc (p. 180), from Geneva to Villeneuve in 3 hrs. 
 55 min. ; fares higher. Return-tickets for two days at a fare and a lialf, 
 available also for the return-route by railway, in which case, however, 
 they are valid for the day of issue only. Landing and embarkation 
 free. — Stations on the N. Bank (those printed in italics are pro- 
 vided with piers): Versoix , Coppet , Celigny, Nmn, RoUe., Movges, Ouchv 
 (Lausanne), Lutry ., Cullu , Vevau , Clarens - Montreux, Chillon, Yille- 
 iwuve. — The st:^aml)oats 'La Fleche'' and 'Chablais' ply between the 
 N. and S. banks. Between Evian and Geneva once daily (the • Simplon'' and 
 ' L'ltalie ' also make this trip twice daily, see p. 204) : Stations : Beloite, 
 Bellerire, A.<;niei'es, Ifennance, Xernier, Thonou. (From Evian to Morges or 
 Ouchy 2 fr. , or 1 fr.). — Service along the Southern Bank, see p. 204. 
 There is no table d'hote on board these Itoats, but a plain dinner may be 
 procured for 2 fr. — The service along the N. bank is preferable to the S. 
 (R. 51), affording a more extensive view of the Alps. 
 
 Those who wish to visit the Lake ofOeneva, and the valley of Chamouny 
 from Geneva as expeditiously, and at the same time as inexpensively as pos- 
 sible, Avithout retracing any portion of the route, will require 3 or 4 days 
 for the piirpose. 1st day. By the first boat along the S. bank (R. 51) to 
 Bouveret and thence by railway to Martigny, or from Geneva to Martigny 
 direct by the first train •, arriving at Martigny at noon, the traveller has 
 still time, in the middle of summer, to cross the Col de Balme (R. 56) or 
 the Tete Noire (R. 55) to Argentiere in the valley of Chamouny. — 2nd day. 
 Early in the morning by Les Tines to the Chapeau, over the Mer de Glace 
 to Jlontanvert and Chamouny. In the afternoon to the Flegere, returning 
 to Chamouny in the evening (R. 54). — 3rd day. By diligence to Geneva 
 (H. 53). Excursion-tickets, see p. 213. 
 
 Tlie Lake of Geneva (1'230'j, Fr. Lac Leman^GeT. Genfer See, 
 tlie Larus Lemanus of the Koman.s, is 45 M. in length, 8^/2 M. 
 wide between Rolle and Thonon, 7i/.> M. between Ouchy and 
 Evian, and only II/2 M- between tlie Pointe de Genthod and 
 Bellerive, 500' deep near Chillon. 050' near Meillerie, and 300' 
 between Nyon and Geneva. The area is about '200 sq. M. , being 
 34 sq. M. more than that of the Lake of Constanee. In shape it 
 resembles a half-moon, the two horns of which are inclined to 
 the S. ; this form is most distinctly and beautifully observed from 
 the Signal de Bougy (p. 191). The K. horn formerly extended 
 9 M. farther towards Bex : the deposit brought down by the
 
 Enql .MciUn
 
 COITET. fiO. Route 189 
 
 Klimir has, however, Riadiially (ill('(| ii|i this part of the lake, 
 and the alluvial soil thus Ibiined daily increases in extent. 
 
 The Lake of Gonova fliOcrs from Uic other Swiss hikes in its deep Miie 
 c()h)ur, most of tlie other lakes beinj; of a greenish hue. This blue tint is 
 ascribed by Sir Humphrey Davy (wlio lived some years and died at Ge- 
 neva), to the presence of iodine; the Swiss naturalists, however, do not 
 take this view. There are 21 diflcrent kinds of fish in the lake, the most 
 abunilant and highly esteemed of which arc the Fcrraz. The navifiation of 
 the lake is inconsiderable, but there are many vessels of 190 tons ; the 
 graceful lateen sail, rarely seen except at Leghorn and on the Scottish lakes 
 (where they arc termed ' goosc-winjis ') , is here employed, and has a very 
 picturesque appearance. On the banks are seen the sweet and wild chest- 
 nut, the walnut, the magnolia in great luxuriance, also the cedar of 
 1,1 banon, and the vine. 
 
 The Lake of Geneva, like that of Constance, is subject to occasional 
 changes of level (sei/ches). At particular spots the water rises several feet 
 without any apparent cause, nor is there any perceptible motion ; it remains 
 at this height for a period never exceeding 25 min., and then again sub- 
 sides to its original level. This phenf)menon is usually attributed to the 
 acti<m of the wind upon the surface of the water; it occurs more fre<iuently 
 during the night than the day, in spring and autumn oftencr than in summer, 
 and seems also dependent u'pon other atmospheric influences. The waves 
 of the lake in stormy weather are termed by the natives '■inoutoiis'. In the 
 early months of the year the water is lowest ;"in July, August, and Septeml>er 
 the melting of the snow occasions a rise of 5 or G'. The currents (ar- 
 dijrcs) caused by the rising of subterranean springs are frc(iuently so strong, 
 that no oarsman can make way against tliem. Waterspouts also occur oc- 
 casionally. It has been ascertained that when the temperature of the lake 
 at the surface is 76" Fahr. , at a depth of 923' it is only 4G". The lake has 
 never been entirely frozen over. 
 
 The Lake of Geneva has for centuries been a theme for writers of all 
 countries. Its connection with some of the greatest names of modern times 
 is universally known; Voltaire and Goethe speak of it with enthusiasm; 
 Rousseau makes it the scone of his impassioneil romance, the 'Nouvelle 
 Heloise"'; the exquisite stanzas of Kyron, who dwelt for some time upon 
 its shores, fairly describe its varied beauties; Alexander Dunuis deems it 
 worthy fd" comparison with the bay of Naples : indeed the arts (»f the poet 
 and painter have been exhausted to do justice to this lovely expanse of 
 water, which combines the sunny softness of the Lago Maggiorc with the 
 imposing grandeur of the Lake of Lucerne. Mont Blanc is visible only 
 fntm the \V. bank, from Geneva, Nvon, RoUe, ami more cspeciallv from 
 Morges (p. 191). 
 
 .Steamboats, seep. 188; departure, seep. ITU. The banks of 
 the lake, beautifully planted, and studded with innumerable 
 vilhis. arc remarkably picturesque. 
 
 Versoix(1263'), a considerable village, which formerly belonged 
 to France. The Duke of Choiseul, Minister of Louis XV., beinjr 
 hostile to Geneva, contemplated foundin,!! a rival city here. The 
 streets were even mapped out. but the design was never carried 
 out. 
 
 Coppet ( Croix Blanche ; Anye; Hotel et Pension du Lac), opposite 
 Ilermance (p. 204). The castle formerly belonged to Necker, 
 a native of Geneva, who from being a banker at Paris was 
 appointed minister of linance by Louis XVI.; in 1700 he quitted 
 Paris and retired to Coppet, where he died in 1804. " His 
 daughter, the celebrated Madame de Staci (d. 1827), the first 
 female writer of her age, likewise resided here for some years,
 
 190 Route 50. ROLLE. From Geneva 
 
 and attracted a brilliant circle of wits and savants around her. 
 Her desk, her portrait by David, and a bust of Necker are shown 
 to those Interested in names which till no mean place in the 
 page of history. The father and daughter, with other members 
 of their family, are buried in a chapel hidden from view by a 
 group of trees and surrounded by a wall to the W. of the castle. 
 The whole is now the property of the Due de Broglie, son-in-law 
 of Madame de Stacl. 
 
 Nyon C^ Hotel duLac^ carriages to St. Cergues, see below; '^Ange, 
 unpretending near the station, V4 ^- fro»Ti the lake), the CoLoma 
 Julia Equestris, or Noviodunum, of the Romans. The ancient 
 castle, in the Romanesque style, with walls 10' in thickness, 
 and 5 towers, now the property of the town, was built in the 
 r2t.h cent. Carnot (d. 1823, at Magdeburg), the able and devoted 
 adherent of Napoleon, found a refuge here. Farther on, among 
 the trees, stands the chateau of Pranyins^ formerly the property 
 of Joseph Buonaparte ; I.a Bergerie, a portion of it, now belongs 
 to Prijice Napoleon ; the remaining portion has been converted 
 into the '■Pension Grand Chateau de Prangins'. 
 
 On a promontory stands Promenthoux, and on the opposite 
 bank, 3 M. distant, Yvoire (p. 204). The Jura mountains gradually 
 recede. The most con.spicuous peaks are the Dole (see below), 
 tlie highest summit of the chain, 500 or 600' higher than the 
 adjoining ridge, and to the N. of this the Noir-Mont (5118'). 
 The lake forms a semicircular bay from the mouth of the 
 Promenthouse to the Auhonne beyond Rolle, and here attains its 
 greatest width (p. 188). On the banks of this bay, which are 
 termed La Cote, one of the best Swiss wines (p. 175) is produced. 
 
 A.scent of the Dole, a delightfiil excursion in clear weather 
 <Jmnibus from Nyon in 3 lir.s. (fare 2'i2 fr.) to St. Cergues (Ilolel clu Canton' 
 de Valid; Union; Pension fJelaigue; ' Ob.teri'atoire on an eminence, 5 min. 
 Irom the i)ost - office, between the old castle of St. Cergues and the Xoir- 
 mont, command.s a lovely view), a small village at the N. E. base of the 
 Dole, two-thirds of the way from the top, frequently selected for a prolonged 
 stay in summer on account of its salubrious air; thence with a guide (a Ir., 
 hardly necessary) to the summit of the Dole (5319') and back in 5 hrs. 
 (including rest), time being still left to reach Nj'on the same night if 
 desired. The carriage-road from Nyon to St. Cergues leads by (3 M.) Trelex, 
 at the base of the hill. The traveller should drive as far as the commence- 
 ment of the well -shaded old road, li|-2 M. beyond Trelex, preferable for 
 pedestrians to the new. It follows the telegraph wires, and leads to 
 St. Cergues in a straight direction (4 M.) up the mountain. A one-horse 
 carr. (G fr.) may be hired from stat. Nyon to the foot of the old road. — 
 A pleasanter foo'tpath to the Dole leads" by La Rippe., li|4 hr. to the S. of 
 Nyon. — Chalet on the Dole dear. 
 
 Diligence from St. Cergues by Les Houasea, a small French frontier- 
 fort, and Le HrasKtis , to Le Sentier, the Lac de Joux , Le Lieu , and Le 
 Pont (comp. R. 47), a pleasant and diversified route, traversing the valley 
 of Dappes (at the E. base of the Dole), a district adjudged to Switzerland 
 in 1815, but until recentlj' a source of contention between that country and 
 France. 
 
 Rolle (^-'Ttte Noire; Couronne), birthplace of the Russian 
 general Laharpe, tutor of the Emperor Alexander!., and one of
 
 
 
 ?^'?^* 
 
 .■; ^' 
 
 
 ■ * pi ^ rj 
 
 
 — c ^ ■-■ p c 
 
 1 1 Hill 
 
 
 ^T 

 
 to Martiyny. LAUSANNE. M. Routt 191 
 
 the most zealous advocates of tlie separation of tlie canton of 
 Vaud from Bern (^1798), comp. p. t9;3. His native town has 
 erected an Obelisk, 42' high, on a small island in the lake to 
 his memory. 
 
 3 M. to the N. of Rolle, on a vine -clad ]iill :i1»ove the village 
 of liougii^ is a celebrated point of view, the Signal de Bougy ('2!Jlt)'), 1080' 
 above the lake, of which it commands a nol)le prospect, witii tin; moun 
 tains of Savoy, and Mont Blanc towering behind them. An bonne (Con 
 ronnf), a small town of great antitiuity, lies 2 31. K. of the Signal. The 
 • Imrch contnins a monument to the French Admiral Umiuesnc (d. 1G8T). 
 I III! castle formerly liehmged to the celebrated traveller Tavernier. Om 
 iiiliiis from Aubonne to (I'jjM.) stat. AUaman. 
 
 Thebaidv of the lake between RolleandLansanneis almo t flat. On 
 a promontory the vilhige oi Si. Prex ; then, in a wide bay. Merges 
 ( Jlotei ties Alpes , on the quay , pension 4 fr. ; Hotel dn Port ; f'ou- 
 ronne), a busy maiuifacturing town, with a harbour, and an old castle 
 now used as a magazine for artillery. The venerable castle of Vufflens 
 stands on an eminence at some distance to the N. ; tradition 
 attributes its construction to Queen Bertha (p. 105). From this 
 })oint '^' Movt Blanc is visible in clear weather in all its majesty 
 to the r. , throtigh an opening in the mountains. The railway 
 -station (p. 175) is 1/2 M- ^'"om the steamboat-pier. 
 
 The steamboat next reaches Ouchy ( 1*230' ) (Hotel Bean 
 Hivage, on the quay, R. from 3 fr., L. 1, B. lijj, A. 1 fr. ; Ancre, in- 
 (lilTerent; 'Lake Bathx for gentlemen and ladies, 'ja fr.), formerly Rive, the 
 jtort of Lausanne. Omnibuses await passengers for Lausanne. The 
 railway station (p. 175j is about ^j^ M. from Ouchy, and Lau- 
 sanne lies 1/4 ^- li'g'it^r np fcomp. the Plan). 
 
 Lausanne (KiiSy'j, the Laasonium of the Romans, with 
 '20,520 iuhab. (3517 Rom. Cath.), capital of the Canton <le Vaud. 
 
 Hotels. Faucon (PI. a), R. 2'|-.i fr., b. I, B. li|.^, I), at I o'cl. 3, at 
 o'cl. 4, A. 1 fr. ^ Hotel Gibbon (IM. b), opposite the post-oflice. In the 
 garden behind the dining-room the historian Gibbon wrote the ctmcludim; 
 portion of his great work in 1787. — 'Bellevne (PI. c); Hotel dii 
 Grand Pont (PI. d). near the bridge, R. 2, B. I'ji, D. 3, A. '|' fr., a cafe 
 below; Hotel Riche Mont (PI. e), tcj the 1. on the wav" from the 
 station to the town; Hotel et Pension Belvedere, well situated 
 near the 'Belvedere' promenade, R. from Hj-j fr. , D. 3 fr. ; A. 'I> L 
 •(■ifr. ; Hotel du Nord (PI. g) Rue dn Bourg , with Cafe; HO'tei 
 d'Angleterre (PI. f); Hotel du Raisin (PI. h); all of the .second 
 class. — Hotel des Alpes (also Cafe), at the station, in a garden. Pen 
 sioiix: Pension C h e val 1 ie r 5 fr., and others. — Cafe-Restau- 
 r a n t d u C a s i n o - T h i.: a t r e , elegantly titted up. 
 
 Omnibus from the station into the town or to Ouchy (to the steamboats) 
 '(•.'fr.. box ij.., fr. — Fiarrcx dear: to the stati(m 2 fr. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Office, at the entrance of the town from the station. 
 
 English Church Service at the English Chapel erected bv Mr. Haldimand. 
 
 Lausanne, visible on the lake from a great distance, is most 
 delightfully situated on the terraced slopes of Mont Jorat, over- 
 shadowed by its cathedral on one side, and its castle on the other. 
 The interior of the town produces a less agreeable impression. 
 The streets are irregular, and the houses in the older part in- 
 signillcant. The two quarters are connected by a handsome
 
 192 Route 50. LAUSANNE. From Geneva 
 
 *bridge (the Grand-Pont), erected 1839—1844, also named tlie 
 Pichard bridge, after the architect who designed it. Tlie almost 
 level causeway intersecting the town passes under the castle by 
 a tunnel, 50 paces long, near the Place de la Riponne, in wliich, 
 as well as in the new Rue de Berne and the Casino Promenade, 
 the houses arc large and handsome. 
 
 The *Cathedral (PI. 6), erected 1235—1275, and consecrated 
 by Gregory X. in the presence of Rudolph of Hapsburg, is a Gothic 
 edifice of simple but massive construction. The terrace on 
 which it stands is approached from the market-place by a flight 
 of 164 steps of mean appearance. The sacristan (marguiUier) 
 lives to the 1. (N.) of the principal entrance. No. 5; the churdi 
 is open daily 9 — 12 and 2 — 5 o'clock. 
 
 In 153G a celebrated Di.spiitation took place in this church , in whicii 
 Calvin, Farel, and Viret participated, and which resulted in the episcopal 
 scat being transferred to Freiburg, the separation of Vaud from the Romish 
 Church, and the suppression of the supremacy of Savoy. The Interior 
 of this Prot. church (352' long, 151' wide) is strikingly symmetrical 
 in its proportions. The vaulted roof of the aisle, 66' in heiglit, is sup- 
 ported by clustered columns of different designs, 2U in number. Above 
 the graceful triforium runs another arcade, which serves as a framework 
 for the groups of the upper windows. The choir is adorned with columns 
 arranged in a semicircle ^ in the arcades which surround the choir appears 
 an ancient form of pilaster, a relic of the Burguudian-Romanesquc style 
 of architecture. The beautiful circular window and the W. and S. portals, 
 with their carving, also merit inspection. Above the cupola rises a clock 
 tower, covered with wrought iron. The old tower was destroyed by light- 
 ning in 1820. The most remarkable Monuments arc those of Duke 
 Victor Amadeus VIII. of Savoy (d. 1451), whom the Council of Bale (p. 2) 
 elected pope under the title of Felix V. ; farther on in the choir arc monu- 
 ments to Otto of Grandson, who fell in a judicial duel (p. 174) (the absence 
 of hands to the figure has no symbolical signification)-, the l)ishop Guillaumt 
 de Menthonex (d. 1406); the Russian Princess Orlow (d. 1782); the Duchess 
 Caroline of Curland (d. 1783) ; Harriet Stratford-Canniny (d. ISlS), first wife of 
 Lord Stratford de Rcdcliffe, at that period ambassador in Switzerland (by 
 Bartolini , not, as is commonly believed, by Canova); Countess Wall 
 nioden-Gimborn (d. 1783), mother of the Countess of Stein, wife f)f the cele- 
 brated Prussian minister, etc. A tablet on the wall of the N. transept 
 near these monuments bears the following inscription : '..1 la iiihnoire du 
 Major Davel, mort stir Vichafaud en 1723, le 2i Avril, martyr des droits c( 
 de la liberie du i^eiqile Vaiidois', a tribute paid to his memory by Laharpe 
 (p. 190), who succeeded in effecting that for which Davel was beheaded as 
 a traitor. 
 
 The Terrace (formerly the churchyard) commands a fine *vicw 
 of the town, the lake, and the Alps of Savoy; the prospect is still 
 more extensive from the summit of the tower, 162' in height. The 
 adjoining episcopal palace (Euec/te, PI. 12) is now used as a 
 prison and court of justice. The view from the ancient episcopal 
 Castle (PI. 7) (now the Cantonal Council Hall) which stands 
 higher up, is also very fine. It was erected in the 13th cent., 
 but from repeated alterations has lost much of its original 
 character. 
 
 The Cantonal Museum (PI. 1) (open Wed. and Sat. 10—4, 
 Sund. 11— 2 o'clock) in the Colleye near the cathedral, contains
 
 to Martiyny. LAUSANNE. 60. Route. 193 
 
 a cabinet of natural history, a valuable collection of freshwater 
 conchylia, presented by M. de Charpentier (d. 1855); also relics 
 from Aventicuni (p. 165) and Yidy, the ancient Lausanne, and a 
 number of interesting Celtic Antiquities, chiefly relics from the 
 ancient lake-dwellings. 
 
 The Arlaud Museum (PI. 19), founded by an artist of that 
 name in 1846, in a large building in the Riponne opposite the 
 corn-exchange (Urenette), is open 11 — 3, gratis on Sundays, 
 Wednesdays, and Saturdays, on other days fee 1 fr. It contains 
 a small collection of pictures by the old masters , and also some 
 good modern works: CaUime, Lake of Brienz : Diday, Kosenlaui; 
 Gleyre. Execution of Major Davel (see above), etc. — In the 
 vicinity. Rue Chaucran 16, is the Musee Induatriel Elementaire, 
 with well arranged industrial collections (admission on Wed. and 
 Sat. 12—31/2, Sund. 11 — 12 o'clock). 
 
 The admirably organised Blind Asylum (Asyle des Aveuylesj, 
 '/2 ^1- from the town, on the high-road to France, was founded 
 by Mr. Haldimand, a wealthy and benevolent Englishman (d. 
 1862). The Blumer Institution, for children physically or 
 mentally diseased, in the castle of Vermes, is l^/o M. above 
 Lausanne, on the road to Bern. The Penitentiary, erected in 
 1828, is a model of orderly arrangement. The Schools of Lau- 
 sanne are also in high repute. 
 
 The Montbenon, an eminence in the immediate vicinity of the 
 town . and on a level with it , on the road to Geneva which 
 diverges to the W. near the Hotel du Grand- Pont, is laid 
 out with avenues on the W. side. It commands a charming view 
 of the lake, and serves as promenade, exercising -ground, and 
 place of assembly. The environs of Lausanne are more beauti- 
 fully wooded than those of the towns on the E. bay of the Lake 
 of Geneva. 
 
 The 'Signal (2126'). 1)2 hr. walk above the town, commands a justly 
 celebrated view. From the post-office to the castle M4 hr. ; over the tunnel 
 by the road for about 100 paces ; then an ascent to the r. by a paved 
 path, from which a flight of steps on the 1. ascends to the carriage- 
 road : this is followed to the r. as far as the summer-house and pleasure 
 grounds (on the r.), which are finally entered by a footpath. Descent to the 
 X. through the wood, then to the r. to ('|4hr.) J/oHOwf/Y/aH (passage someti- 
 mes forbidden), and back in •(! hr. more by a shady ])ath to the castle. 
 The view embraces a great portion of the lake. 3I«int" Hlanc is not visible 
 from this point, but is seen from the Grandes Roches (l'|-.> from the 
 town, to the r. of the Yverdon mad), antither cbaruiing ])oint of view. 
 
 On the steep and lofty mountain-slopes (at the base of which 
 lie the villages of Lutry, Cully, and St. Saphorin) , which bear 
 the name of La Vaur, one of the best and strongest of the Swiss 
 white wines is produced. Between Fully and Lutry, higher up, 
 is the lofty viaduct of the Lausanne -Freiburg line, across the 
 valley of the Paudeze. The amphitheatre of mountains becomes 
 grander as the steamboat advances ; the .Mole'son, Dent de Jaman, 
 
 B^DKKER, Switzerland. 5th Edition, |3
 
 194 Route 50. VEVAY. From Geneva 
 
 Rochers de Naye , the Tour d'Ay and Tour de Mayen, the Dent 
 de Morcles and Dent du Midi; between these, to the S. , Mont 
 Catogne, and in the background the snowy pyraniid of Mt. V'ehxn. 
 
 Vevay, Fr. Veoey, the Vibiscus of the Romans. 
 
 Hotels. *T r i s C o u r o n n e s , or Hotel Moimet , on the lake ; 
 ■Grand Hotel de Vevey, to the W. of the town; Grand Hotel 
 du Lac, to the E. of the Couronnes •, these three hotels are spacious and 
 comfortable, charges similar: R. 2 — 4 fr., L. ^j^^ b. I1J2, dejeuner a la 
 fourchette 3, table dliote at 1, 5, and 71J2 o'cl. 4, A. 1 fr., reading, smok- 
 ing and billiard-rooms, warm baths. — Hotel Leman, to the W. of the 
 Couronnes ; 'H 6 t e 1 S e n n ; these two on the lake, charges more moderate ; 
 Hotel du Faucon, opposite the Couronnes, smaller, well spoken of; 
 Trois Rois, not far from the station, no view; Croix Blanche, 
 near the post-oflice; "Hotel du Pont, at tlie station, unpretending; 
 Hotel de la Poste, in the town. — Pensions see p. 196. 
 
 Cafes. Cafe du Lac;Bellevue; Des Alpes;allon the new quay, 
 with terraces. — R i n s o z , Rue de Lac. 
 
 Baths at the E. e.xtremity of the town ; small bath-houses on the lake ; 
 farther on, a swimming-bath (7 — 12 a. m. for ladies only). Warm Baths 
 at the Hotels Monnet, Senn, and Trois Rois. 
 
 Station on the N. side of the town, on the 1. bank of the Veveyse. 
 
 Post Office, Place de TAncien Port. — Telegraph Office opposite the 
 N. side of the Hotel de Ville. — Bankers: Geo.Glas, Place de la Maison 
 de Ville; A. Cuenod Churchill., Place du Marche 21. 
 
 Omnibus from the station to the liotels 2U c, box 10 c. ; to La Tour- 
 de-Peilz 3U c, box 15 c. ; to Chexbres from the post-office, 1 fr. (see p. 163). 
 
 One-Horse Carriage, half-a-day 8 fr. and 2 fr. driver's fee. 
 
 Rowing-boats may be liired at the ciuay and the Place du Marche : 
 without a rower 1 fr. per hr., with 1 rower 2, with 2 rowers 3 fr. ; to 
 Chillon, with 1 rower 6, with 2 rowers 10 fr. ; to St. Gingolph (p. 206) 
 same charges ; to the rocks of Meillerie (p. 205) with 2 rowers 12, with 3 
 rowers 15 fr. 
 
 Pianofortes at Ratz enb er ger's, Place de PHotel de Ville. — Nest- 
 ler's Atelier de peinttrre, at La Tour; studios of Mad. Hegg (flowers) 
 and Valouys (oils) both in the Place du 3Iarche. 
 
 Bookseller. Ben da, at the Hotel Monnet (also music, etc.). 
 
 Physicians. Dr. De Montet, Dr. C u r c h d , Dr. G u i s a n , Dr. 
 Lees on, Dr. Muret, and Dr. Rossi er. — Grape-cure, p. 197. 
 
 English Church Service at the Church of St. Clair. 
 
 Vevay , charmingly situated at the influx of the Veveyse 
 (1263') , is the second town of Vaud, popul. 7887 (1393 Rom. 
 Cath.). Rousseau has contributed greatly to immortalise this 
 spot. The views from the small terrace at the market, the quay, 
 and the new Chateau of M. Couvreu (beautiful *garden with 
 plants of southern growth, fee 1 fr.) embrace the whole scene 
 of the ^Nouvelie HeLoise% the 'burning pages' of which depict 
 with the utmost force and accuracy all the features of this lovely 
 neighbourhood. To the E. the Tour de Peilz, Clarens, Montreux, 
 and Chillon are visible ; next, Yilleneuve and the mouth of the 
 Rhone; in the background the Alps of Valais, the Dent du Midi, 
 Mont Velan (adjoining the Great St. Bernard) and Mont Catogne 
 (the 'Sugar-loaf); on the S. bank of the lake, the rocks of 
 Meillerie , overshadowed by the Dent d'Oche ; at the foot of the 
 mountains the village of St. Gingolph (p. 206). The Quai Sina 
 and Ferdonnet afford a beautiful walk, sheltered from the N. 
 wind,
 
 to Marliyny. VKVAY, 50. Route. 195 
 
 The Church of St. Martin, erectetl in i4U8, on an eminent e 
 (the ^Terrasse du Panorama ) among vineyards outside the town, 
 surrounded by lime and chestnut trees , commands a lovely pro- 
 spect. It is only used tor servii^e during the summer. A mountain- 
 index i '• Indicatear des Montay lies') has been placed here. 
 
 In the church repose the remains of the regicides Ludlow ('■potestatis 
 arbilrariae oppaynalor actrriinus , as the uiarljle tablet records) and li r o u g h- 
 ton. The repuhlicanism of Ludlow was of the purest kind; he opposed 
 the ambitious views of Cromwell, and was free alike from hypocrisy and 
 fanaticism. Broughton read the sentence to King Charles ('dii/natus fait 
 senlentiain regis rtyuin pro/aii, quain ob causain expulsus palria sua" is 
 tlie inscription on his monument). On the restoration of Charles II. 
 he demanded the surrender of tlie refugees, a request with which the 
 Swiss government lirmly refused to comply. Ludlow's House, which 
 formei'ly stood at the E. extremity of the town, has been removed to 
 make way for an addition to the Hotel du Lac. ihe original inscription 
 chosen by himself, '■(Jinne solum forli palria^., was purchased and removed 
 by one of his descendants. 
 
 In tile best wine-years the guild of vintners (TAbbaye des Viyneroiis) 
 celebrates a peculiar festival, probably a relic of the superstitions of the 
 Roman age. The last occasion of the kind was in 1865, when thousands 
 of visitors were attracted by the novelty of the spectacle, which will pro- 
 bably not occur again for many years. The principal feature of the cere- 
 mony consists in a grand allegorical prijcession, in wliicli sacred and 
 mythological subjects are often blended together with absurd incongruity. 
 
 The chateau of 'Hauteville, 2 ^l. to the N.K. of Vevay, with an 
 admirably kept park, commands a beautiful view from the terrace and 
 temple. In tlie same direction, 2 Jl. higher up, is the ancient castle of 
 Blonay, which has been in the possession of the family of that name for 
 centuries ; the path from Hauteville to lilonay inclines to the r. through 
 vineyards, walnut groves, and picturesi^ue villages. In returning, thi^patli 
 to the r. beyond the bridge may be followed ; this descends to the car- 
 riage-road beneath, which leads to the (1 Jl.) bridge below Chatnlard, 
 where the path (described below) from Vevay to Montreux and Chillon 
 may be followed. 3 Al. farther to the N.E. are the Pleiades (.properly 
 riti/atix, 44y2'), a celit)rate(l point of view, at the E. base of which is 
 L AUiaz (3428'), a small sulphur-bath establishment. 
 
 To the E. ol" Vevay is the BtUerive school, well known to 
 many English and American families, founded by M. 8illig ; 
 the little fleet belonging to the pupils is visible from the Hotel 
 Monnet, lying at anchor or cruising about on the lake. The 
 tower among the trees beyond , the Tour de Feilz ( Turris Feli- 
 ana), said to have been built by Peter of Savoy in the 13th 
 cent., was used as a prison previously to the separation of the 
 cantons of Vaud and Bern. Tlie neighbouring castle contains a col- 
 lection of ancient weapons, the property of M. Riyaud. In the 
 vicinity is a villa erected in ISo? by the Princess Lieynitz, widow 
 of Frederick William 111. of Prussia by a morganatic marriage. 
 
 From Vevay to Freiburg, see R. 41 ; over the Jaman into the valley of 
 the Sarine and to Thun R. 38. An agreeable excursion to Ht. Uinyolph 
 (l'|2 hr. by boat) and Xovel (on foot), in the valley of the Morge, thence 
 ascending the Blaiuhard (p. 20G). Inns at St. CJUngolpli and Novel very 
 poor; the traveller should therefore provide himself with refreshments 
 at Vevay. 
 
 Pedestrians proceeding from \'evay to Moutreu.v and Chillon (l\i ^1-) 
 will do well to avoid the hot and dusty high-road, and select the shady path 
 ahmg the slope of the hill, which winds among villas and gardens, com- 
 
 id*
 
 196 Route 50. CLARENS. From Geneva 
 
 manding lovely views of the lake. It is now intersected by the railway 
 in many places, and is therefore somewhat difficult to find. The first vine- 
 vard-path to the 1.. 1 M. beyond La Tour; then towards the r. ; in 12 min. 
 io the 1. -, 12 min. direction-post to^ the r. to Maladeyre and Clarens ; 
 7 min. 1. inland, to the r. a new chateau ; immediately afterwards across 
 a bridge; 17 min. cross--way. where the broad path must still be followed-, 
 3 min. below the castle r)f Chdtela7-d, built towards the end of the 15th 
 century; then across a bridge to the r. and down a paved way: 5 min. 
 to the 1., a slight ascent; 3 min. Churchyard of Clarens (with several 
 handsome monuments) commanding a lovely view : the path contimies 
 at the same elevation, traverses a grove of walnut-trees, and (>|2 hr.) 
 leads to the church of Montreux, thence to Veytaux, and down to Uie 
 high-road. 
 
 Not far from the lake, 8^/4 M. from Yevay, lies the beautiful 
 village of Clarens, immortalised by Rousseau. On a promontory 
 to the W. is situated Les Cretes, a chestnut copse, popularly 
 believed to be identical with Rousseau's 'Bosquet de Julie'. The 
 genuine 'Bosquet', however, has long since disappeared, having 
 been, according to the indignant comments of Lord Byron, uproot- 
 ed by the monks of St. Bernard (to whom the land belonged) 
 in order to make way for vineyards. Beautiful view from above 
 Clarens. near the churchyard (see above). 
 
 On this favourite S.E. bay of the Lake of Geneva a large number of 
 Pensions (see Introd. Ill) have established themselves. The best-known 
 are here mentioned in their order from Vevay. At V e v a y : Pension du 
 Chateau (6—8 fr.). three houses to the E. of the Hotel Monnet, with a large 
 shady garden on the lake: some houses farther Pension da Quai : then 
 Pension Maillard, all with a view of the lake (5 fr.); Pension Wolp" (i — 6fr.), 
 Rue des Promenades, recommended to ladies travelling alone. Pension du 
 Panorama., in the vicinity of the towm : Pension Cheinenin, 'Is M. above the 
 town, charming view, 5 — 6 fr. Farther up (at St. Le'gier) Pension Bt'guiii, 
 (at Blonay) Pension Afajomiier, i—o t'r. — Near Vevay, at La Tour de 
 Peilz: Pension Victoria, on the lake; adjoining it. Pension du Paradis ; 
 Pension Burckhardt, in the little town of La Tour: Bellevue, beautiful 
 garden, fine view: Du Rivage (Prelaz); Xesfler, for gentlemen. — An 
 Basset, near Clarens. the "Pension Ketterer, recently enlarged, sheltered. 
 At Clarens, to the r. : ''Hermitage, on the lake"; 1.. Pension Gabirel 
 (5 — 6 fr.) ; r.. ^Pension Munj (4 fr.), unpretending ; 1., -Pension Moser (4 fr.) ; 
 r., Pension Mirenen (4 fr.) : Maison Puimieux, suites of apartments of 4 
 rooms, kitchen, servants room, bed and table-linen, at 150 — 2(X) fr. per 
 month. In the village : Major (3i|2 fr.). Between the village and the 
 railway-station: Genton (5 fr.). Opposite the station: Hotel des Cretes{i^l2 — 
 6 fr.), "well shaded. Between Clarens and Vernex (all on the lake): 
 Pension Alexandre (5 fr.), delightfully situated ; Richelieu (5 — 8 fr.) ; -Lorius 
 (two houses), adjoining the residence of Dr. Carrard. At Chailly 
 (shaded by fruit "and walnut-trees). Pension Benker, 4 fr. ; at Chernex, 
 higher up (above Vernex). several pensions at 4 fr., well shaded. — At 
 Vernex (telegr. stat.): 1.. Pension Germann ; r.. 'Cugne, pension 6 — 8 fr., 
 also an inn (R. 21)2, B. I1I2 A. sj^ fr.), boat to Chillon (2i)2 hrs. inch rest) 
 with 1 rower 2i|2 fr. ; in the village, Monod (3i|2 fr.) ; next to the post- 
 office, Beaulieu (4 fr.): higher up, close to the station. "HStel et Pension 
 de Montreux (4i|2— 61(2 fr.). — Between Vernex and Territet, on the 
 bank of the lake : to the r., Monney, well litted-up (41J2 — Q^k tr.) ; Rolandais ; 
 Hotel-Pension Beau-Sejour; Hotel Suisse; Bellevue (41(2 fr.) ; 1., Plaine de 
 Montreux (4 — 5 fr.), opp. the steamboat-pier; 1., above the road, Haute-Rive 
 (4—5 fr.); farther on, r., "Beau-Rivage and "Bon Port (4 — 6 fr.) . the three 
 latter commanding a fine view. In Mon treux itself : -Mile. Mooser (5 fr.), 
 with pleasant view; "Vautier, attentive landlady; adjacent. Petite Pension 
 Vautier, 5 fr. — At Territet: 'Hdtel des AlpeSy numerous apartments
 
 to MartUjny. MONTKEUX. 50. Route. 197 
 
 from 2 fr., well fitted up, rendezvous of the fashionable world, table d'hote 
 at 2 and 6 o'cl. ; opp. to it the Maiso?i des Alpes, in which suites of 
 apartments may lie hired ta 'A>J — 4CX) fr. per month; r., Alouno/id, 
 3>(2— 4 fr. : liohring (II6td liouivard), II. from 2. B. li|2, A. and L. 1 fr. — 
 At Veytaux, "Masson (4—5 fr.). — Between Chillon and Ville- 
 neuve, 'La Priiitanniere (4 — 6 fr.), shadv walks; also the handsome 
 ^H6tel BijroH (It. 2, D. 4, L. 1, A. 1 fr.). — At Glion (3ti02'), in a healthy 
 and lieautiful situation, Hotel Righi Vaudoix (R. from 2 fr., B. li|4, D. 
 4 fr., Pension 5—10 fr.), two houses, highly recommended for the whey- 
 cure; a good carriage-road (2 M., one-horse carr. G fr., two horse 11 fr. 
 incl. fee), and a steep footpath (}\i, hr.) lead to this establishment. Ad- 
 joining it, H6tel Helltvue (.4—5 fr.). In Olion itself, ''Hotel du Midi (4 fr.), 
 and other pensions at moderate charges. 
 
 3Iost of these Pensions receive passing travellers at hotel prices, but 
 in autumn they are often full. The grape-cure usually commences at 
 the end of September and lasts about 4 weeks. Urapes charged 1J2 fr. 
 per lb. Bex (p. 2(.)1) has lately become a place of considerable resort; 
 its promenades are better shaded than those at Montreux, but the absence 
 of the lake renders it less attractive. — In the height of summer wheu 
 the heat on the lake and in the valley of the Rhone becomes overpowering, 
 the pensions at C/idteait d Oex (p. 154) are much frequented. There are 
 also similar pensions at Geneva, see p. 178. 
 
 All the villages which lie scattered about, partly on the lake 
 and partly on the mountain, CLarens ., Chernex , Vernex, Glion, 
 (■'olonyes, Veytaux. etc., are in the parish of Montreux. This 
 district is divided into two parts by the brook of Montreux, the 
 portion on the r. bank being named collectively Chdtelard (p. 196), 
 that on the 1. Les Planches. Montreux [* Hotel de V Union; Pont; 
 pensions see p. 196; Benda's book shop and reading room), 
 in the centre of these scattered hamlets, on the lake, possesses 
 a handsome church which commands a superb *view of the lake, 
 from the mouth of the Rhone to a point far beyond Lausanne. 
 Figs, pomegranates, and laurels flourish here in the open air, and 
 the wine is mjich praised. Consumptive patiejits are frequently 
 sent to Montreux, its sheltered situation rendering it peculiarly 
 adapted for a winter residence. 
 
 L^xcursions from Montreux. 'Rochets de Naye (0706'), the S. neigh- 
 hour of the Jaman, ascent in 4, descent in 3 hrs., view embracing the entire 
 chain of the mountains of Bern, Valais, and Savoy : Mont Blanc only 
 partially visible. Easiest ascent by Glicm and Moui Can; most picturesque 
 route over the wooded ridge of Mont Suc/iard, for which last a guide is 
 desirable. — Mo/il Cubli/ (394u'). N.E. of Cliernex, to the summit and back 
 in 4 hrs. — To the Gorge du Chutidroti, a profound wooded ravine, 
 with groups of rocks and waterfalls, between Olion and Soiizier. The 
 entire valley is termed La Bait de Montreux. The walk to the gorge 
 from the bridge at Montreux and back occupies 1 hr.. or returning by 
 Glion 2'|j hrs. — By Chernex and Chaulin to the Bains de VAUiaz and 
 the Pleiades., returning by Blonay (p. 195), 8 hrs. — To the Val d' Illiez, 
 see p. 207. — By .Vigle to Ormonts, see p. 15(J. — Ascent of the Jaman, see 
 p. 158. Mules may be hired. — To the Pissevacfie and Gorge du 'Trient 
 (p. '202) by railway, and back in one day. 
 
 The Castle of Chillon, with its massive walls and towers, 
 stands on an isolated rock (IV2 ^^- '^^om Montreux), at a 
 distance of 65' from the shore, with which it is connected by a 
 bridge.
 
 108 Route 50. CHILLON. From Geneva 
 
 "Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place. 
 And thy sad floor an altar, — for 'twas trod, 
 Until his very steps have left a trace, 
 Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod. 
 By Bonnivard I — may none those marks efface, 
 For they appeal from tyranny to God." 
 The anthor of these exquisite lines has invested this spot with 
 much of the peculiar interest which attaches to it, h\it it is an error to 
 identify Bonnivard, the victim to the tyranny of the Duke of Savoy, and 
 by him confined in these gloomy dung:eons for a period of six years, with 
 Byron's -Prisoner of Chillon'. " The author calls his poem a Fahle, and 
 v/lien he composed it he was not aware of the history of Bonnivard, or he 
 would, as he himself states, have attempted to dignify the siahject hy an 
 endeavour to celebrate his courage and virtue. The following brief outlines 
 of the life of a man with whose name these gloomy walls are so intimately 
 associated, may be acceptable to the traveller as he contemplates the spot. 
 Francis Bonnivard was born in 1496. He was the son of Louis Bonnivard, 
 Lord of Lune, and at the age of 16 inherited from his uncle the rich prior3' 
 of St. Victor, close to the walls of Geneva. The Duke of Savoy having 
 attacked the republic of Geneva. Bonnivard warmly espoused its cause, and 
 thereby incurred the relentless hostility of the Diike. who caused him to 
 be seized and imprisoned in the castle of Grole'e, where he remained two 
 years. — On being restored to liberty he returned to his priory, but in 
 1528 he was again in arms against those who had seized his ecclesiastical 
 revenues ; the city of Geneva supplied him with the munitions of war, in 
 return for which Bonnivard parted with his birthright, the revenues of 
 which were applied by the Genevese to the support of the city hospital. 
 Bonnivard was afterwards employed in the service of the republic, and in 
 1530 when travelling between Moudon and Lausanne fell into the power of 
 his old enemy, the Duke of .Savoy, who caused him to be confined in the 
 castle of Chillon. In 1536 he was restored to liberty by the Genevese forces 
 >\nder Nogelin ; he returned to the republic, and was made a citizen. Bon- 
 nivard's subsequent career was a stormy one, and he died in 1571 at the 
 age of 75 years. 
 
 Above the Castellan's entrance are the following words, 
 inscribed by the Bernese in 1643 : ''Gott der Herr segne den 
 Ein- und Ausgang" . (May God bless all who come in and go out). 
 In the interior is a range of dnngeons in -which the early reformers 
 and, subsequently, prisoners of state were confined; across one of 
 the vaults is a beam blackened by age, on which the condemned 
 ■were formerly executed. In the dungeons are eight pillars, one 
 of which is half built into the wall ; to these pillars the prisoners 
 were fettered , and on the pavement the steps of Bonnivard and 
 other illustrious captives have left their traces. A fine effect is 
 produced by the beams of the setting sun streaming through the 
 narrow loopholes into these gloomy precincts. Among the 
 thousands of names inscribed on the pillars , Byron's appears 
 conspicuous — whether the genuine autograph of the great poet 
 or not, is best known to the concierge. 
 
 It is an historical fact that in the year 830 Louis le De'bonnaire in- 
 carcerated the Abbe of Corcier. who instigated his .«!ons to rebellion, in a 
 castle from which only the sky, the Alps, and Lake Leman were visible 
 (Pertz, Momtm. II. p. 556): this coiild have been no other than the Castle 
 of Chillon. Count Peter of Savoy improved and fortified the castle in 
 the 13th cent., and it now stands much as he left it. The strong pillars 
 in the vaults are in the ancient Romanesque style, and belonged to the original 
 edifice. The Counts of Savoy frequently resided in it-, it was subse-
 
 to MartUjny. VILLENEUVE. 50. Route. 199 
 
 qucntly converted into a state-prison, and since 1798 has served as a 
 military arsenal. 
 
 Between Chillon and Villeneuve, on the slope of the hill, is 
 the Hotel Byron (p. 197). The He de Paix, a small island 30 
 paces long and 20 wide, ^/o M. W. of Villeneuve, commands a 
 complete panoramic view. It was laid out and a wall was built 
 to protect it by a lady a century ago ; three elms now flourish 
 on it. Byron's lines are vividly recalled to the mind : 
 "And then there was a little isle, 
 Which in my very face did smile. 
 The onlv one in view." 
 
 Prisoner of Chillon. S. XIII. 
 In the E. bay of the lake (1230'), 9 M. from Vevay, V/o M. 
 from Chillon , lies Villeneuve (Hotel de Ville) , a small town 
 surrounded by a wall, the Pennilucus, or Penneloci of the Romans. 
 The railway stat. is behind the town , to the E. (see below). 
 Footpath to Montbovon (p. 158) by the Col de la Tiniere in 
 41/2 hrs., to Chateau d'Oex (p. 154) in 6 hrs. 
 
 Railway (comp. p. 188) from Geneva to Lau.<ianne, see p. 175. 
 
 Lausanne, see p. 191. 
 
 The line generally skirts the bank of the lake as far as 
 Villeneuve ; a seat should therefore be selected on the right (W.) 
 side. After the station at Lausanne is quitted, the Freiburg rail- 
 way (p. 162) diverges to the 1. Before reaching stat. Lutry, the 
 line crosses the Paudeze [the viaduct of the Freiburg line with 
 nine arches is above, to the 1.]. passes through a small tunnel, 
 and then winds round the steep vine-clad slopes of La Vaux, which 
 produce the excellent wine mentioned at p. 193. On the opposite 
 (S.) bank are the rocks of Meillerie (p. 205). Then another 
 tunnel. The high-road traverses the vineyards below to the r. 
 
 From stat. Cully to Rivaz St. Saphorin the line runs close to 
 the lake. (Here the line from Lausanne to Freiburg, which has 
 been gradually ascending, leaves the bank of the lake, and turns 
 inland to the N.E.) Near Vevay the line quits the lake ; the 
 train crosses the impetuous Veveyse, frequently dry in summer, 
 and stops at 
 
 Vevay (p. 194), behind the town. 
 
 The line skirts the foot of the hills for some distance, and 
 passes through a tunnel before reaching stat. Clarens (p. 190). On 
 emerging from this, the view of Montreux, Chillon, and the E. 
 extremity of the lake is very beautiful. The next stat. Vernex- 
 Montreux (p. 197) is at a considerable elevation above tho lake. 
 The line now again approaches the lake ; stat. Veytaux-Chillon 
 (p. 197) is some distance from the castle. The Hotel Byron is 
 near the railway on the 1., between Chillon and Villeneuve. 
 
 Villeneuve, see above. The line passes in the rear of this 
 village and enters the Rhone Valley, here 3 M. wide, bounded on
 
 200 Route 50. AIGLE. From Geneva 
 
 both sides by high mountains. The valley is perfectly level, 
 and in most parts marshy. 
 
 On the W. side of the valley, near Bouveret, the Rhone flows 
 into the lake; its grey waters, which in the course of ages have 
 brought down considerable masses of deposit, present a curiou- 
 contrast to the crystalline azure of the same river where it rushes 
 through the bridges at Geneva. 
 
 The first station in the valley of the Rhone is Roche. Near 
 Yvorne (1561') a large mass of the mountain was precipi- 
 tated upon the village below by an earthquake in 1584. An 
 excellent wine is grown in the gorge. This large and thriving 
 village extends along a vine-clad ridge near Aigle . a short dis- 
 tance to the 1. of the railway. On the r. the jagged Dent du 
 Midi (p. 207) is visible. 
 
 Stat. Aigle (1374') (Beau Site, at the station, com for table. 
 pension 5 — 6 fr. ; ~Mon Sejour, also recommended. 2 min. from the 
 station-, 'Victoria,. 2 min. farther, opposite the post and diligence 
 ofllce. all three hotels with baths and pleasant grounds. — 'Hotel du 
 3Iidi and Hotel du Xord, both commerciaL in the town i|'4 31. fmui 
 the station. — Large new hotel and sanitary estab. to be opened in 1872 
 on the height above Aigle. IV2 M. from the railway), on the impetuous 
 Grande-Eau (p. 156), the AquiLa or Aquileja of the Romans, 
 once a Roman cavalry station, is a favourite summer resort. The 
 village is built of black marble found in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Very agreeable excursion to the Ormonts (p. 156). by carriage as far 
 as Sepev or the Hotel des Diablerets (one-horse carr. there and back 
 15 fr., fee 1 fr.). 
 
 A very favourite point near Aigle is the hamlet of Villar d. 3ij4 hrs. 
 from Aigle, 2'|o hrs. above Ullon (see below). One-horse carr. 12—14. two 
 horse 25 fr. and fee. High road to (2i|4 ^l) Ollon, thence a good carriage- 
 road with numerous windings. Pedestrians follow the old road, which diverges 
 to the 1. from the new immediately above Ollon. About 3 min. farther 
 the path divides into three, of which that to the extreme r. is to be fol- 
 lowed. 50 min. La Pousaz, where the path to the 1. must be taken ; 35 
 min. Henmoz (pron. Wems by the natives), charmingly situated ; i|2 hr. 
 Chesierex, with beautiful view; i|".. hr. Villard (4026'). an insignilicant 
 hamlet with several much frequented pensions (Grand Afvreian : Chalet; 
 GeniUardi new: pension in each 5 — 8 fr.). Admirable view of the Khone 
 valley, as well as of the Grand ]\Ioveran (or 3Iuveran). Dent de Morcles, 
 Dent du Midi. etc. Pleasant park-like environs, aflbrding a variety of 
 walks. — The principal excursion hence is the ascent (2 hrs., carriage- 
 road nearly to the top) of the Chamossaire (G9T2'), which commands a 
 remarkably picturesque view. — To the liotel des Diablerets over the 
 Col de la 'Croix (5174') 3 hrs. \ descent to the hotel steep and rough, guide 
 unnecessary (comp. p. 156). 
 
 On an isolated wooded eminence . rising in the valley of the 
 Rhone near stat. Ollon-St. Triphon, stands a tower. 60' in height, 
 of Roman origin, the remnant of an ancient castle. The village 
 of Ollon (Hotel de Ville . rustic) is situated at the foot of the 
 hills. '2 M. from the railway. A direction -post points to the r. 
 to Colomhey (p. 206) on the 1. bank of the Rhone, connected 
 with the r. bank by a suspension-bridge. 
 
 An interesting excursion to the Blocs Erratiques, near (3 M.) M o n t h e y . 
 in the Val dllli ez. Ascent of the Dent du Midi, see p. 207.
 
 to Martigny. ST. MAURICE. 60. Route. 201 
 
 Next Stat. Bex (1427'), pronounced Bay (*Grand Hotel des 
 Salines, with baths, well situated; Union; Hotel des Bains; 
 "^Pension Crochet; *BeUeime). a small town on the Avenron, '^j^ M. 
 from the station (restaurant; omnibus 30 c.J; 3 M. to the X.E. 
 are the considerable saltworks of Devens and Bevieux, approached 
 by a shady path of gentle ascent. A visit to these works takes 
 half a day, fee to the guide 5 fr. Visitors usually drive to 
 Uevens, inspect the salt-works, and then visit the mines, where 
 the salt is obtained from the saline, argillaceous slate by steep- 
 ing it in fresh water. — A hill to the 8.E., 2 M. from Bex, 
 crowned by the mined Tour de Duyn, commands a pleasing pro- 
 spect of the Val d'lUiez. the Dent du Midi, Dent de Morcles. etc. 
 
 From Bex to Sinn by the- r'nl de Clih-ille, see K. 6J. 
 
 The line now approaches the Rhone, crosses it by a wooden 
 bridge, and unites with the railway on the >S. bank (Kouveret- 
 Sion, p. 206). Before the tunnel (cut through the rock, which 
 here descends towards the Rhone , scarcely leaving room for 
 the high road) is entered, the picturesque situation of the little 
 town is seen to advantage. The fortitications were constructed 
 in 1832 and 1847, previously to the war of the Separate League. 
 The single-ar<'hed stone bridge , by which the high-road crosses 
 from the r. bank of the Rhone to the 1., built in the loth cent., 
 rests with its E. buttress on a spur of the Dent de Morcles (9()39'), 
 and its \V. extremity on one of the Dent du Midi (10,6(8'. see 
 p. 207). and has a span of 70'. Above the castle, half-way up 
 the hill, is sitnated the Grotte aux Fees, a stalactite cavern said 
 to be 2 M. long. Card of adm. ( 1 fr. ) obtained from the castellan 
 of the fortress. 
 
 On emerging from the tunnel behind the town (_of which little 
 is visible from the linej, the train stops at stat. St. Maurice. 
 Passengers by all trains to or from Bex change carriages here. 
 Half-way up the apparently inaccessible precipice to the r. (at 
 the foot of which the station standsj is perched the hermitage 
 of Sotre-Dame-du-Sex (sax = rock), to which a narrow footpath 
 has been hewn in the rock. 
 
 St. Maurice (1342') (Hotel des Alpes, new, well spoken of; 
 Dent du Midi; Ecu du Valais). an ancient town with very narrow 
 streets , on a delta between the river and the precipice , the 
 Ayaunum of the Romans , capital of the Nantuates , is said to 
 derive its name from St. .Maurice , the commandant of the The- 
 ban legion, who according to tradition . suffered martyrdom here 
 in 202 (near the Chapelle de Verolliaz. see belowj. The abbey, 
 probably the most ancient ecclesiasti<'al establishment on tiiis side 
 of the Alps, is said to have been founded about the end of the 
 4th cent, by St. Theodore, the lirst bishop ot the Valais. Some 
 ancient works of art preserved here are worthy of mention : among 
 them a vase of Saracenic workmanship . a pastoral staff" in gold
 
 202 Route 50. VERNAYAZ. From Geneva 
 
 with elaborately wrought figures , each one inch in height , a 
 chalice of agate, Queen Bertha's chalice, and a rich MS. of the 
 Gospels, said to have been presented to the abbey by Charle- 
 magne. On the walls of the churchyard and on the tower of the 
 ancient church are Roman inscriptions. 
 
 The Baths of Lavey (1420'), on the r. bank of the Rhone, lijs M. 
 to the S., above the bridge of St. Maurice, are mvxch frequented. The 
 warm spring (100° Fahr.j, first discovered in 1831, containing chloride of 
 sodium and sulphate of soda, rises in the bed of the Rhone. 
 
 Beyond this, to the r. of the line, is the Chapelle de Verolliaz, 
 with rude frescoes , supposed to stand on the spot where the 
 6000 soldiers of the Theban legion once suffered martyrdom. On 
 the opp. bank of the Rhone are the Baths of Lavey (see above). 
 The line now approaches the Rhone, and winds round the spot 
 where, in August 1835, a gigantic stream of mud from the Dent 
 du Midi inundated the valley, covering it with huge blocks of 
 stone and debris of all kinds. 
 
 Stat. Evionnaz stands on the spot where, in 563, a similar 
 mud-stream destroyed the town of Epaunum, at which the great 
 Council of 517 had assembled. In front rises the broad snow-clad 
 Mont Velan (p. 237). Near the little village of La Barma the 
 railway and high-road wind round a projecting rock close to the 
 Rhone , and the beautiful fall of the Sallenche , known as the 
 *Pissevache , becomes visible on the r. The Sallenche , which 
 drains the glaciers of the Dent du Midi , here precipitates itself 
 into the valley of the Rhone from a height of 200'. 
 
 The Pissevache is 11(2 M. from Vernayaz, the nearest station. The 
 path to the r. above the waterfall, formerly accessible only to goats, is 
 now protected by a balustrade (1 fr.) i from the height above the fall, 
 where a red flag is usually waving, the glacier of Mont Velan, the true 
 summit of the Great St. Bernard, is distinctly visible. 
 
 Stat. Vernayaz (Grand Hotel des Gorges du Trient, new, R. 
 11/2, A., and L. 1 fr. : des Alpes, and de la Poste, indifferent), is 
 the starting-point of the new route to Chamouny via Salvan and 
 Trinquent (see p. 226), and now possesses a staff of guides and 
 horses (same charges as at Martigny: guide to Le Chatelard or 
 Barberine 6, to Chamouny over the Col de Balme 12, Cascade du 
 Dailly 4 fr.). 
 
 About 3/4 M. beyond Vernayaz the traveller perceives the 
 barren rocks at the mouth of the *Gorge du Trient, which may 
 be ascended to a distance of V2 M. (where the gorge widens) 
 by means of a wooden gallery (similar to that at Pfaffers, p. 286) 
 attached to the precipice, immediately above the foaming Trient. 
 Admission 1 fr. 
 
 The view at the entrance of the gorge is very imposing. The rocks, 
 here about 420' high, approach so closely to each other at every turn, 
 that the traveller continually expects to find himself in a mighty vaulted 
 cavern. The sunshine never penetrates into this gully. The report of a 
 small cannon awakens the most deafening reverberations. At the point 
 where the path crosses the Trient for the second time, the stream is said
 
 to Martigny. MARTIGNY. 5(t. Route. 203 
 
 to be AC deep; at the extremity of the pallery it formp n waterfall, 
 30' in height. The porge itself" is 9 M. long;, extending as far as the 
 Hotel dc la TCtc Noire (p. 225"), from which its entrance is visible. At 
 the month of the gorge is a restaurant. — The interval between the 
 arrival of one train at Vernayaz and the departure of the next suffices for 
 the inspection of the Pissevache and the Gorge. 
 
 From Vernayaz to C h a m o u n y by S a 1 v a n , see p. 226. 
 
 Near Martipny, at the extremity of the right angle -which the 
 Khone valley here forms , on an eminence to the r. of the line, 
 stands La Batiaz flOBo'"), a castle of the bishops of Sion. erected 
 by Peter of Savoy in 1260, dismantled in 1518. The steep 
 ascent from the Drnnse bridge occupies '/4 ^i"- I^ commands 
 a *view of the broad lower valley of the Rhone as far as 
 Sion , and a part of the Bernese Alps (the Sanetschhorn and a 
 small portion of the Gemmi particularly prominent) ; on the hills 
 on the S. side stands the Pierre-a-voir fp. 204). which resem- 
 bles a tower; below are Martigny and Martigny le Bonrg: through 
 the valley to the S.W. runs the path to the Forclaz fp. 227), 
 above which rise the peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges; to the N. 
 the Dranse, and beyond it the Trient empty themselves into the 
 Rhone. The train crosses the Dranife , an impetuous mountain- 
 torrent, one arm of which rises on the Great St. Bernard fp. 287). 
 It falls into the Rhone, N. of Martigny. The station of Martigny 
 is 1/2 ^- froni t^c town fOmnibus 50 c). 
 
 Martigny fl387') (Hotel Clerc, expensive; Hotel dc la 
 Tour. R. 2, L. '(-'- B. l'(2, D. 3, A. 3|4 fr. ; -Gran d c-Ma ison-Pos te , 
 R. 2, B. IM'j. A. and L. 1, D. 4 fr. : B el 1 cvue , at the .stat. ; Cygne; 
 Baths near the Hotel de la Tour, 2 fr.), the Roman Octodurus or 
 Civitas Vallensium , capital of the Veragri , is now a busy 
 little town in summer in consequence of the great influx of 
 tourists , being the point of intersection of the routes over the 
 Simplon to the Lago Maggiore (R. 63), over the Great St. Ber- 
 nard to Aosta and Turin fR. 58). and fbridle-path) over the Tete- 
 Noire and Col dc Balme (RR. 55, 56) to Chamouny. The 
 monastery of Martigny relieves from time to time the Augustine 
 inonks who occupy the Hospice of St. Bernard fp. 237). 
 
 Above Martigny , on the road to the Great St. Bernard, lies 
 f'''/4 M.) Martigny le Bourg (Lion d'Or . tolerable; Trois Cou- 
 ronnes, unpretending, good 'Coquempey' wine), in the vicinity of 
 which excellent wine {Coquempey and In Marque, with both of 
 which the Romans- were acquainted) is produced. 
 
 In this angle of the Rhone valley, cretinism in its most re- 
 pulsive form was formerly prevalent: but the rising generation 
 is happily tolerably exempt from this loathsome malady , which 
 has gradually retired before the modern introduction of airy 
 dwellings and other sanitary improvements. The brown cotton 
 material of which the men's blouses are made in this district is 
 peculiar. A small kind of gnat with black, gau/y wings is a 
 source of great annoyance in the marshy districts of the lower
 
 204 Route 50. PIERRE-A-VOIR. From Geneva 
 
 Rhone Valley in summer , especially towards evening ; the win- 
 dows of bed-rooms should therefore be closed early. 
 
 The Pierre-a- Voir (8124'), a limestone peak in the mountain range which 
 separates the valleys of the Rhone and the Bagne, is frequently ascended 
 in 6 hrs. from Martigny and the Baths of Saxon (p. 253), or Sembrancher 
 (p. 235). The ascent from Martigny, and the descent to Saxon is recom- 
 mended. (Guide from Martigny 8. mule 8 fr.^ From the Col, 1(4 hr. below the 
 summit, the descent may be made in a rapid, but not very pleasant manner 
 by means of a kind of sledge to the Baths of Saxon in 1— i'|2 hr., or on foot 
 in 3 hrs. This limestone peak, a summit of the chain which separates tlie 
 Valley of the Rhone from the Bagne Valley, commands a beautiful view of 
 the Alps of the Valais (from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn). the Bernese 
 Alps (from the Dent de Morcles to the Jungfrau), of the Rhone, Entre- 
 mont, and Bagne valleys, and the glacier of Getroz, which occasioned a 
 great inundation in 1818 (p. 235). On the wall at the back of the Hotel 
 de la Tour at Martigny the height which the water attained is indicated. 
 
 Hallway to Sion, see R. 63. 
 
 51. From Geneva to St. Maurice by Bouveret. 
 Lake of Geneva (Southern Bankj. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. 188. 
 
 S t e a m boat to Bouveret bj- the S. Bank (railway in course of construc- 
 tion) in 4'|2 — 5 lirs. ^ fares 5 fr. and 2'J2 fr. The afternoon steamboat from 
 Geneva, on reaching Bouveret, starts again for Vevay on tlie arrival of the 
 last train from Sion. From Bouveret to St. Maurice by Railway, 4 trains 
 dailv in correspondence with the steamboats, in 3(4 hr. : fares 2 fr. 75, 
 [ fr! 85. 1 fr. 40 c. 
 
 Those who are already acquainted with the N. Bank (R. 50) should 
 choose this interesting route by way of variety. Leaving Geneva by the 
 lirst boat, they will reach St. Maurice (and also ilartigny and Sion) as 
 soon as the train by Lausanne and Villeneuve. Excursion-tickets from 
 (ieneva to Chamouny by Martigny and back by Sallanches (or vice versa) 
 see p. 213. Comp. also p. 188. 
 
 The High-road from Geneva to Bouveret, being the first part 
 of the Simplon route constructed by Napoleon I. to connect Geneva with 
 Milan (comp. R. G3), passes, at a considerable distance from the lake, 
 through (93J4 M.) Douvaine, and Thonon {%^i M., nearly half way), pos- 
 sessing few attractions thus far, excepting the first portion as far as 
 Vesenaz (p. 186). But from Ainphion to Bouveret it skirts the rocky bank 
 of the lake, and is replete with interest. 
 
 As the steamboat quits the quay, a tine retrospect of the 
 town is obtained. On the E. bank, along which the boat steers, 
 are numerous villas, (see p. 186), surrounded by plantations. The 
 steamboat passes Cologny and Vesenaz (p. 186), making its first 
 halt at Bellerive, the station for CoLlonge, which lies at some dis- 
 tance from the lake (the village on the opposite bank is (len- 
 thod, p. 175). Next station Anieres. opposite Versoix (p. 189j; 
 then Hermance (opposite Coppet, p. 189), near which a rivulet 
 of the same name falls into the lake , forming the boundary be- 
 tween the Canton of Geneva and Savoy. Opposite stat. Nernter, 
 Xyon (p. i90j is conspicuous on the N. bank. 
 
 Beyond Yroire, with its ancient castle, situated on a promon- 
 tory , the lake suddenly expands to its greatest width (between 
 Rolle and Thonon 91/4 M.). The N. bank is now so distant that 
 its villages are only distinguished in clear weather. A large
 
 to St. Maurice. EVIAN. 51. Route. 205 
 
 bay opens to the S. , in which the village of Excenevrex lies on 
 the r. The mountains of Savoy here become more conspicuous. 
 The stoainboat now approaches 
 
 Thonon (i;-^r2') {Hotel de L'Europe^ on the terrace ; Balance; 
 Ville de (ientre), rising picturesquely from the lake, capital 
 (pop. 4825 ) of the Savoyard province of Chablain , and formerly 
 a residence of the Counts and Dukes of Savoy. It possesses 
 handsome buildings and a lofty terrace in the upper part of the 
 town , the site of the ancient ducal chateau , destroyed by the 
 i^ernese in 1:3.^6. 
 
 About 6 M. to the S. of Thonon is situated the small town of Les 
 Aninge;^. coiniuandcd liy the ruins of an old castle (fine view). 
 
 From Thonon a pood carriage-road ascends the pretty D r a n s e Valley 
 hy .S7. Jean d'Ai/lp/i, with the interesting ruins of a monastery, in 8 — 9 hrs. 
 to Morzine (Hotel du Chamois). Thence to Samoens and Si.xt. see p. 222; 
 or to Champery in the Val d'llliez, p. 2(J7. 
 
 Farther to the N., the steamboat passes the ruins of the 
 castle of Ripaille on the bank of the lake , formerly the seat of 
 Uuke Victor Amadeus VIII. of Savoy (p. 192), who died at 
 (Jeneva in 1451. The promontory round which the steamboat 
 now steers . has been formed by the deposits of the Dranse, 
 which here flows into the lake (not to be confounded with a 
 streaiu of the same name in the Valais , which falls into the 
 Rhone near Martigny). The high-road crosses it by a long bridge 
 of 24 arches, I'/o ^- ti'oni the lake. In the bay, situated on 
 the high-road, which here skirts the lake, are the sulphur-baths 
 of Amphion, recently much frequented, in the midst of a grove 
 of chestnuts. 
 
 The steamboat now stops at Evian (Hotel des Bains ; Hotel 
 Erian, with garden on the lake ; Hotel de Eranre ; Hotel du Xord ; 
 Hotel de Fonbonne, on the lake! . picturesquely situated, with a 
 lofty spire visible from a long distance. Hiffh above the lake, 
 in the centre of the town, is the Bath-house, with alkaline 
 baths; the garden -terraces in the rear afford a beautiful view. 
 Most of the summer residents at P2vian and Amphion (between 
 which an omnibus runs frequently) are French. 
 
 On the lake, near station Tour-Ronde, stands the old castle 
 of Blonay with its park (not to be confounded with the castle 
 of Kionay near Vevay, p. 195). On the opposite bank lies 
 Lausanne (p. 191), picturesquely situated on an eminence; more 
 to the E. the arch of the lofty Paudeze viaduct, on the Oron- 
 line (p. 162), is visible. The mountains of the S. bank, which 
 the boat now skirts, become more precipitous. In a romantic 
 situation close to the lake is Meillerie, or Millerez. where, in 
 Rousseau's 'Nouvelle IleToise", St. Preux is represented as taking 
 shelter during a storm at the house of Madame Yolmar. Napo- 
 leon I. caused the rocks to be blown up, in order to provide 
 material for the Simplon road. Formerly Meillerie was accessible
 
 206 Route 51. BOUVERET. From Geneva 
 
 from the lake only. Charming view near Les VaUettes, still more 
 extensive from the Dent d'Oche (8009', ascent in 5 hrs.j. 
 
 St. Gingolph { Taste; Lion dOr), on a promontory opposite 
 Vevay (p. iy4j, belongs partly to Savoy, partly to the canton of 
 Valais, the Morge , which flows through a deep gorge, forming 
 the boundary. The grotto of Vioiers , with its springs , may be 
 visited by boat. 
 
 A delightful excursion, with a succession of line views, may be made 
 by ascending tlie ravine of the Morye and crossing the mountain to Purt 
 Valais (see below) (thence to Bouveret or Vouvry). Those who wish to 
 extend their walk, may follow the 1. bank, of the 3Iorge for i^\-> hr. to 
 Novel (two poor innsj, ascend the Blanchard (3 hrs. there and back, guide 
 necessary) , and return by the r. bank of the 3Iorge through beautiful 
 forests to St. Gingolph. i'rom Novel to the summit of the Dent d'^Oche, 
 in 3 hrs. 
 
 Bouveret (Tour ; restaurant at the station) lies at the 8.E. 
 extremity of the Lake of Geneva, •^/4 M. to the 8.W. of the 
 mouth of the Rhone, which converts the neighbouring district 
 into a marsh. Its impetuous current (La Battayliire) may be 
 traced for upwards of I'/.j ^- i'l the lake. Travellers here disem- 
 bark, and enter the train which is in waiting on the bank. 
 
 The railway enters the valley of the Rhone to the 8.E. , re- 
 maining on the 1. bank of the river. (Railway on the r. bank 
 see p. 201.) Soon after leaving Bouveret, the train passes an 
 eminence on the r. , on which stands Fort Valais , the Fortus 
 VaLlesiae of the Romans, in their time on the lake, now l^/.) M. 
 distant from it. Near La Forte du Sex (i'iSiJ'J the rock approaches 
 so near the river as scarcely to leave room for the high-road, which 
 passes through a 'Porte' between the precipice and the Rhone. 
 In ancient times this entrance was fortified, and formed the key 
 of the Canton of Valais on this side. The railway is constructed on 
 the bed of the river, which it crosses by a wooden bridge to ChesseL 
 on the r. bank. To the r. the Dent du Midi (p. '20 i) is visible. 
 
 Vouvry (Foste), on the r., is the first station ; beautiful view 
 near the church. The Cornettes de Bise (8002'J are frequently 
 ascended from this place in 4 — 5 hrs., guide lO fr. ; admirable 
 and extensive view in clear weather. At this point the Rhone 
 is joined by the Stockalper Canal., commenced a century ago 
 by a family of that name, for the purpose of draining the 
 dibtrict and facilitating commerce , but unfinished to this day. 
 As far as Colomhey (beautiful view from the convent, the 
 vestibule of which merits inspection) it runs to the r. , parallel 
 with the railway. To the r. of the line, before Colombey is 
 reached, are the villages of Vionnaz (to the 1., on the opposite 
 slope of the r. bank, Yvorne, p. 2U0, to the r. of which rise 
 the jagged Diablerets and the snow -clad Uldenhorn) and Muraz 
 at the foot of the mountain. A suspension-bridge, 210' in length, 
 coiniects the two banks of the Rhone between Colombey and 
 Stat. St. Triphon, on the railway of the r. bank (p. 200).
 
 to St. Maurice. CHAMPRRY 51. Route 207 
 
 On an eminence near .>tat. Monthey (1453') (Croix d'Or; 
 ('erf), is an ancient castle, occupied tmtil 1798 by the bailift". 
 About 20 min. walk above Monthey, in a chestnut-grove (guide 
 desirable), among a number of boulders (comp. Introd. XIV) is 
 the huge Pierre Adzo (pierre suspendue), balanced on a point not 
 exceeding a few square inches in area. 
 
 Monthey is situated at the mouth of the Val d'llliez, 12 M. long, which 
 winds to the S.W. towards the mountains of Savcjy, and is remarkable for its 
 fresh green pastures, wild and romantic scenery, rare plants, and robust 
 and hardy race of inhabitants. One-horse carr. from Bex (p. 201) to 
 Ghampery 13, two-horse IS fr. and driver's fee. Near Monthey the new 
 road ascends through vineyards, and afterwards for about 2 M. through 
 a chestnut wood, by numerous windings , which the pedestrian may avoid 
 by following the old paved track (the beginning of which had better be 
 asked for at Monthey). Beautiful retrospect of the valley of the Rhone, 
 Be.v and Aigle, the Diablerets and the Grand Moveran. About >|4 hr. 
 above Monthey the old path joins the road , which must now be followed 
 to the 1. where the telegraph wires turn in that direction, and not again 
 quitted (path to the r. leads to Morgin). A more level district is then 
 traversed for l'i2 M. to the beautifully situated village of Troistori'enls 
 (Hotel and Pensitm), near the church of which is a good fountain. [Here 
 to the VV. opens the Val de Morgin, in which are situated the baths 
 of that name, 3 hr.s. from Montliey ; the waters are impregnated with iron, 
 and are more adapted for drinking than for e.vternal use. Inn tolerable 
 and moderate.] The road in tlie upper part of the Val d'llliez gradually 
 ascends the slope of the Dent du Midi, commanding a beautiful view all 
 the way, to (2'j2 M.) Val d'llliez (Inn with pension), and 
 
 (2'|2 M.) Champery (4(X)9') (Hotel de la Dent du Midi, R. 2, B. lij-j, D. 3, 
 L. and A. 1, pension excl. R. 4'J2 fr. ■-, Croix Federate, unpretending), the 
 highest village in the valley, T'l^ 31. from Monthey, beautifully situated. 
 Pleasant walk of »j-.. day to the summit of the Culel (6491'), or to the still 
 higher Hoc d' Ay erne, commanding a noble prospect, especially towards the 
 Dent du Midi. The path to the Col de Couz (see below) is followed for ^J^hr. ; 
 then to the r. by a small shrine where the path divides ; a large chalet 
 on the 1. is next passed, and farther up another on the r. ^ a pine wood 
 is next traversed, beyond which a narrow footpath ascends to the cross on 
 the Culet. Chalets and cowherds afford frequent opportunities of enquiring 
 as to the route. — From Champery a bridle path crosses the Col de Couz 
 (6504') to the Dranse valley, and thence over the Col de Golizt (6682') 
 to Samoens, a walk of 6 — 7 hrs., easy and interesting. Guide un- 
 necessary. To the Col de Couz (after ^\\ hr., to the 1. where the path 
 divides) 2^(4 hr. (refrcshm.) , frontier of Savoy and Switzerland. The lirst 
 saddle seen hence towards the 1. is the Col de Goleze. In descending, the 
 paths leading to the r. to Morzine must be avoided. In l'|j hr. more the 
 Col de Goleze is attained. Beautiful view in descending, embracing the 
 side-valley in which Les Allemandes lies, and a glimpse of the more distant 
 valley of the Giffre. 2 hrs. Samoens (Hotel de la Poste ; Hotel du Com- 
 merce, both uninviting). A chapel on the lieight above the church, 5 min. 
 walk, commands a fine view of the valley. Omnibus daily to Geneva at 
 4. 30 a. m. in 7 hrs., fare 4 fr. ; from Geneva at 2. 3U p. m. in 8 hrs. 
 From Samoens to (4'(-.' M.) Sixt a good road (comp. p. 222). — From 
 Champery over the Col du Sageroux (7956') to Sixt 7 — S hrs., by a tolerable 
 footpath, which, however, is occasionally lost. Guide necessary (15 fr.). 
 This is a more rugged and fatiguing route than the above, and tlie scenery 
 is less pleasing, but it alfords nearer and more imposing views of the Dent 
 du Midi and the glaciers. — By far the most interesting ways of approaching 
 Chamouny are the passage of the Col d'Anterne and Col du Brevent, or 
 that of the Col Lechaud and the Buet, both from Sixt (comp. p. 222). 
 
 The Dent du Midi (lO,3oO') is ascended in 6—7 (descent 4—5) hrs. from 
 Champery, guide necessary, fee according to tarilV 15 fr. In unfavourable
 
 208 Route 5-2. FORT DE L'ECLUSE. 
 
 weather the ascent is only made as far as the (2 hrs. , fee 6',.; fr.) ChaletnS 
 of Bonavaux (several beds, coffee and milk). The last 3 hrs.. over rocks 
 and loose stones, are very fatiguing, but without danger to the practised 
 walker. In the latter part of summer the path is almost entirely free from 
 snow. The view is imposing: 3Iont Blanc here somewhat resembles the 
 Jungfrau as seen from the Faulhorn ; the backgi-ound to the S. is formed 
 by the Alps of Dauphiny and Piedmont; the Lake of Geneva is visible 
 from Villeneuve to Vevay. In descending, the traveller need not return 
 to Champerv. but may cross the Col de SusanU (8019')- the saddle between 
 the Dent du Midi and the Tour SalUere (10,469 ft.), to the valley of the 
 SaUenche, and descend bv the chalets of En-van-Haut to Vernayaz (p. 202). 
 or to Salvan (p. 226). 
 
 The line crosses the Viege. which descends from the Val 
 d'llliez , by an iron bridge. Near Massonger the mountains on 
 the r. and the Rhone on the 1. approach the line. Near St. 
 Maurice the railway of the r. bank joins that of the 1. (route 
 by Bex, p. 201). 
 
 St. Maurice, see p. 201. 
 
 52. From Geneva by Culoz and Aix-les-Bains to 
 Chambery, returning by Annecy. 
 
 Railway to Aix-les-Bains in 31,2 hrs. (10 fr. 50. 7 fr. 90, 5 fr. 60 c). 
 to Chambe'rv'in 4 hrs. (12 fr. 50, 9 fr. 10. 6 fr. 45 c), to Chamousset 
 (p. 211) in 53(4 hrs. (14 fr. 85. 11 fr. 20, 7 fr. 85 c). The express trains 
 to Lyons convey Ist-class passengers only : tickets, however, need only be 
 taken to Culoz (7 fr. 50 c.) , where a change of carriages takes place, and 
 a halt of 20 min. is made. The trains thence to Aix-les-Bains, Cham- 
 be'ry, etc. have 1st, 2nd. and 3rd class carriages. Return-tickets, available 
 for the same day. issued as far as Bellegarde. Diligence daily between 
 Aix-les-Bains and Annecy, Chamousset and Albertville, Albertville and 
 Annecy, Annecy and Geneva. 
 
 The railway (Geneva - Lyons) first traverses an uninteresting 
 country, and passes through numerous cuttings. Stations Meyrin, 
 Satigny ; on the 1. of the line flows the Rhone. Near stat. La 
 Pleine the valley of the London is crossed. Next stat. Chancy (the 
 village lies on the opposite bank of the Rhone) and Collonges. 
 
 The steep declivities of the Mont de Vuache (3704') on the 
 Savoy side , and the huge masses of the highest portion of the 
 Jura chain are here separated by the Rhone. The lofty Fort 
 de TEcluse, to the r. , commands this entrance into France. 
 The train now passes through the Tunnel du Credo, ^^U M. in 
 length, crosses the Valserine Viaduct (to the 1. far below is the 
 single-arched bridge of the road), and stops at station Bellegarde 
 (Perte du Rhone), where luggage is inspected. 
 
 Above the union of the Valserine with the Rhone, about i|2 M. from 
 the hotel . and visible from the high-road to Collonges , is the so-called 
 Perte du Rhdne. When the river is low, the water disappears for about 
 100 paces in a cleft in the rock, which, however, has recently been con- 
 siderably widened. 
 
 The train passes through four tunnels before it reaches stat. 
 Pyrimont (asphalt-mines in the vicinity), before the last of which 
 it crosses a lofty viaduct; on the 1. flows the Rhone, The valley of
 
 AIX-LKS-BAINS. .'>2. Route. 209 
 
 the Rhone now expands, and becomep flat and marshy. At stat. 
 Seyssel the banks are connected by a double suspension -bridge. 
 
 Stat. Culoz, at the base of the Colombier f-iTOO'), is the 
 junction of the lines to Lyons. Macon (Paris), and St. Michel. The 
 carriage:^ of the Lyons railway must here be quitted for those of 
 the Victor-Emmanuel line, which diverges S.E. towards Mont 
 Cenis. The train now traverses the broad valley of the Rhone, 
 crosses the river by an iron bridge, and reaches stat. Chatillon 
 with its old castle, situated on a wooded promontory to the r., 
 at the N. end of the Lac du Bourget (702'J, which is 12 M. 
 long, l^/o M. broad, and 250' deep. The line skirts the rocky 
 E. bank, passing through a succession of tunnels: to the r. a 
 beautiful view of the lake, the monastery of Hautec-ombe situated 
 on the opposite side, and the mountains of the W. bank. 
 
 Aix-les-BainS f840') ('Hotel Imp*? rial, nearest the station. R. 
 fnmi 3 fr., A. 1. L. 1. D. 5 fr. ; 'Venat, with spacious garden; Globe 
 and E u r <) p f . D. -i fr. : A ni b a s s a d e u r s : G u 11 1 a n d T Post) ,• F n i v e r s ; 
 thf three last less expensive. — Pensions : Villa desFleurs, with shady 
 grounds. 12 fr. ; C h a b e r t, B o s s u s, etc. — One-horse carr. drive2 fr.,25inin.), 
 known to the Romans as Aquae Allobrogum, or Aquae Gratianae, 
 is a celebrated, but not very attractive watering-place with 4000 in- 
 habitants, visited annually by upwards of 3000 patients. It pos- 
 sesses warm (i 13°) sulphur springs, the waters of which are drunk 
 and used for baths. The extensive Etablissement Thermal was 
 erected in 1864. The square in front of it is adorned with a 
 Roman triumphal arch, erected by T. Pompejus Campanus in the 
 3rd or 4th cent. The other Rom. antiquities still extant fruins 
 of a temple, baths, etc.) are situated in private property , and 
 access is only obtained by special permission. 
 
 A pleasant excursion may be made to Haute Combe, a Cistercian mo- 
 nastery on the N.W. bank of't.he Lac du Bourget, at the foot of the Mont du 
 Chat. It was formerly used as the burial-place of the Princes of Savoy, 
 until the Superga near Turin was employed (1731) for that purpose. The 
 monastery, destroyed during the French Revolution, was rebuilt in 182-i by 
 Charles Felix, king of Sardinia. The church contains the monuments of 
 Amadeus V., VI.. VII., Humbert III.. Louis I., Baron de Vaud, Jeanne de 
 Montfort, Count Haymon. Boniface of Savoy (Archbishop of Canterbury ) the 
 .<«plcndid mausoleum of Peter of Savoy. Anna of Zahringen, etc. The view 
 from the neighlwuring tower of Phare de Oessens has been described by 
 Rousseau. About ^U M. from the monastery is the intermittent Fontaine 
 des Mevveilles (see p. 129). On the site of' the old Roman road a good 
 high-road leads across the Mont du Chat. The traveller may agreeably 
 combine a visit to the monastery with a survey of the country by taking 
 a boat from Aix to Haute - Combe, whence it ".should be sent on to the 
 village of Bourdeau.r, at the S. end of the road over the Mont du Chat: after 
 visiting the monastery and the intermittent spring, he may descend by foot- 
 paths to the Mont du Chat road, which leads to Bourdeaux, and thence 
 return by boat to Aix. Tarifl": boat with 2 rowers, to Haute-Combe. incl. 
 stay of 1 hr.. 8 fr.. for each additional hour 1 fr., to Bourdeaux i fr. 50 c. ; 
 a previous understanding with the boatmen is recommended. — A Steant- 
 boat plied round the lake on Sundays, halting for 1 hr. at Haute-Combe. 
 
 Branch-line from Aix-les-Bains to Ann e c y (in 1>J2 hr.. fares 4 fr. 
 40, 3 fr. 35. 2 fr. 45 c.) by stat. Or^st/sur-Aix, Albens, Bloye, Rumilly (where 
 
 B^DKKKR, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 14
 
 2i0 Route 6'^; CHAMB^RY. From Geneva 
 
 th6 Cherart is crossed) 5 thea through the picturesque valley of the FieV 
 (Stat. MaixeUaz^ Locagny) to Annecy (p. 2l2j. 
 
 Aix being a teroiiuus , the train now returns to the main 
 line, which skirts the lake till the S. end is reached. Stat. Vo- 
 yiansi to the 1. are the beautifully wooded slopes of Mont d'Azi 
 and the Dent de NivoLet [4600 'J. 
 
 Chambery [866') [Hotel de France^ near the station; HuteL 
 de L' Europe; Poste ; Hotel dts Princes), formerly the capital 
 of Savoy , is now the principal town of a French department, 
 with a popul. of 20,000. On the promenade, between the rail- 
 way and the town , stands a large monumental Fountain, in 
 memory of General de Boiyne (d. 1830j, who bei^ueathed to his 
 native town a fortune of about 3'/2 million fr. which he had 
 amassed in the East Indies in the service of the Kajah Scindia. 
 The iiue de Boigne, a handsome broad street with arcades, leads 
 from the monument to the Palace [at the commencement of the 
 arcades is a &ide-street leading to the cathedral, see belowj. The 
 square tower, and a remnant of the facade belonging to the an- 
 cient Castle of the counts and dukes of Savoy [erected in i'ioOj 
 still remain, and are reached by flights of steps and terraces. 
 The chancel of the palace-chapel, to the r. [termed the 'holy 
 chapeT from having been the depository of the -holy napkin", now 
 in the palace-chapel at TurinJ , is a good specimen of lute Gothic. 
 A line survey of the neighbourhood, the Dent de Nivolet, and Mont 
 d'Azi [see above) , is obtained from the terrace in the palace-gar- 
 den [the traveller goes to the 1. round the palace , through the 
 gate , and ascends the avenue). The palace is now the residence 
 of the prefect of Savoy. The Gothic Cathedral, completed in 
 1430, is small , but interesting, although disfigured by later ad- 
 ditions. Chambe'ry is the seat of an archiepiscopal see. The 
 church of Lemanc , situated on a height near the town, contains 
 the tombstone of General de Boigne [see above). Madame de 
 Warens , whose name is sO intimately connected with the early 
 history of Rousseau, is also buried here. She occupied the coun- 
 try-house Les Charmettes, situated on an eminence, I1/.2 M. from 
 the town , where the young philosopher resided with his bene- 
 factress for some years. 
 
 The railway from Chambery traverses a picturesque district, 
 passing the castles of Bcitie and Chiynin. The precipitous Mont 
 Graiiier [6076'J remains to the r. . forming the boundary between 
 the valleys of Chambery and Graisivaudan; it owes its remark- 
 able form to a landslip in 1248, which buried 16 villages, and 
 the effects of which are still visible on the vine-clad hills. A 
 branch-line diverges to the r. from »tat. Route de Grenoble into 
 the beautiful valley of the Isere , here called the Valley of Grai- 
 sicaudan, t© Grenoble. The railway now turns to the 1., and reaches 
 the river Isere close to stat. Montmtlian, where - ^--hly-esteemed 
 wine is produced. The ruined castle, on a wooded height, long
 
 io Chambiry. ALBERTVILLE. 52, Route. 211 
 
 served a.^ a bulwark ot' Savoy again=t the French. Geoffrey 
 Beiiso (ail ancestor of the able Italian minister Cavour) defended 
 it for 13 months against the army of Louis Xlll. It was 
 destroyed by Louis \IV. in 1705. The line now cros.-e? the 
 Isere , passes stat. St. Pierre d'Albiyny , and reaches Chamousset, 
 at the mouth of the Arc, where the train is quitted. 
 
 The Kail way t(t )( o n t Cenis (and Turin) a.-;cends the valley of 
 the Arc to the r. — Mont Cenis Tunnel, see Baedeker's S. Italy. 
 
 The High-road from Chamousset to Aibertviile (diligence 
 daily , ai>o to Annecy farther onj crosses the Isere by a handsome 
 stone bridge , and then skirts the r. bank of the river , which 
 is here converted into a canal. On a projecting rock, opposite 
 tlie bridge, to the E. of the small town of St. Pierre d'Albiyny. 
 at the foot of the mountains on the r. bank, ^tand the ruins 
 of the castle of Miolans ., the property of the Miolans family 
 from the 9th to the IGth cent. It was afterwards used as a 
 state-prison by the dukes of Savoy , and was ttnally destroyed dur- 
 ing the French Revolution. The walls of the cells are still covered 
 with the names of the prisoners. 
 
 Aibertviile (llUo'J [HCAeL des Balances) is a small town of 
 some importance, with broad streets (popul. 150UJ. It was for- 
 merly called I'Hnpital, and received its present name in l«Soij in 
 honour of King Charles Albert. Un the opposite mountain- 
 buttress which separates the valleys of the isere and the Arly, 
 lies the highly picturesque and once fortified village of Conflans 
 (1178'J, witli its green overgrown battlements, only divided from 
 Aibertviile by the Arly . which tlows into the Isere a short 
 distance below. 
 
 On leaving Alhertville. the diligence from Chamousset continues to 
 ascend the valley in a 6.E. direction to Montier en Taieutaise. Koad thence 
 by Bourg 8t. .Maurice and the Petit St. Bernard to Pre St. Didier and Aosta, 
 see p. '2iU. 
 
 The road to Annecy now ascends the picturesque valley of 
 the Arly, which opens to the N. To the 1., on an abrupt emi- 
 nence above the road, stands the church oi Palud; on the r. the 
 Doron emerges from the Vallee de Beaufort, which extends E. 
 towards the Col de Bonhomme (p. 281). At XJgiue (Ko8'j 
 ( Au.v Bidance.i ; (irande Maison) , a small , badly built town , with 
 3000 inhab. . commanded by the ruins of a castle on the N., 
 the road quits the Arly valley and enters that of the Chaise to the 1. 
 
 F r o ni I' g i n e t o S a 1 1 a n c h e s , or to the Baths o f S t. G e r v a i s 
 ( 24i|2 M.). The following is the best route for travellers proceeding from 
 Oeneva to Aix-les-Bains. Chajnbery, and afterwards U) Chaniouuy. Carriage- 
 road tlirough the .Vrly valley to (U M. ) Flumet (i5L'23') (Post)', a market- 
 town, situated at the mouth of the Aromline, which descends to the Arly 
 from a lateral valley on the 1. Un a rock stands the ruined castle of the 
 ancient banms of i-'aucjgny. Flumet is on the frontier of the ilaute- 
 Savoie Department. Travellers from Chamouny are here subjected to the 
 formalities of the custom-liouse, as the Hautes .'vlpes Department is exempt 
 from French i»i>|)»t -'As- (6 M. ) Miijece, with two very unpretending inns. 
 One mile beyonu Jiegeve. a path to the ( '2'|-.» hrs. ) Baths of .S7. Geirais 
 (p. Jlo) diverges to the r.. traversing wmids aud pastures lui the mountaiu 
 
 14*
 
 212 Route 52. ANNECY. 
 
 slope. aflordin<r a charmin? view of the Arve valley, and eft'ecting a con- 
 siderable savins to pedestrians proceeding to Chamouny, as they reach 
 the road at Chede ( p. 215) , or may cross the Col de Forclaz, or "the Col 
 de Voza (p. 229). On the descent to Sallanches near ComblouT, one of 
 the grande.st Alpine "^ views is enjoyed: opposite the spectator rise the 
 Aiguilles de Varens (8956'), to the 1. the Arve valley is visible as far as 
 Magland (p. 215) . to the r. rises the entire Mont Blanc chain , with its 
 numerous peaks and glaciers, including the summit of Mont Blanc itself; 
 below lies Sallanches and the bridge over the Arve to St. Martin. Sal- 
 lanches see p. 215. 
 
 Beyond Ugrine the lower slopes of the mountains to the S. are 
 covered with vineyards. Passine Marlens, the road quits the Chaise 
 Valley. The culminating point between the Chaise and the Eau 
 Morte, by which the road now descends, is hardly perceptible. 
 The extensive old castle of Faverges fiOQS') (Postf) is a conspi- 
 cuous object in the landscape. 6 M. beyond Faverges the traveller 
 reaches the S. end of the Lac d'Annecy f 1456') , 93/4 M. long 
 (steamboat 3 times daily to Annecy in 1^4 hr. , pleasant journey). 
 The high road skirts the W. bank of the lake . and affords charm- 
 ing views. To the r. . on the opposite bank , rise the grotesque 
 rocky peaks of Mont Tournette fToBfi'). On a promontory ex- 
 tending far into the lake , stands the Chateau Duing (1476'), by 
 which the road passes. Its beautiful situation renders it a fa- 
 vourite resort of the inhabitants of Annecy. On the opposite 
 bank lies TaUoires (1433'). birth-place of the chemist Berthollet. 
 and somewhat farther N. , on an eminence above a village of the 
 same name, is Chateau Menthon (1873'). birth-place of St. Bernard. 
 
 Annecy (1509Q (*H6tel de Geneve, on the promenade close 
 to the lake, R. 2, D. 3, A. ij-j fr. ; Hotel d " An gl e te rre ; Aigle). 
 a picturesque, old-fashioned town (pop. 9000) with linen manu- 
 factories, the oldest in Savoy. In the 12th cent, it was the capital 
 of the Duchy of Genevois. and bore the name of Anneciacum 
 Novum, to distinguish it from Anneciacum Vet us , which was 
 situated in the neighbourhood to the N.E. , on the slope of a 
 beautiful hill, where numerous Roman remains have been found. 
 The old Castle rising above the town , once the residence of the 
 Genevois-Nemours family, is now used as barracks. The Gothic 
 Cathedral with modern tower , and the ancient episcopal palace 
 deserve mention. In the modern church of St. Francois, to the 
 r. at the end of the principal street leading from the lake through 
 the town , rest the bones of St. Francis de Sales (Bishop of Ge- 
 neva, d. 1622). The avenues and grounds by the lake afford 
 delightful walks and beautiful views of the lake and mountains. 
 N. of the town, shaded by old trees, is a bronze statue of the 
 eminent chemist Berthollet (d. 1829). In front of the modern 
 Hotel de Ville, situated in the vicinity, is a handsome fountain. 
 Annecy, with its delightful environs, is recommended as a very 
 pleasant and not expensive resting-place. 
 
 From Annecy to Geneva diligence in 41/2 hrs.. railway 
 projected. About 11/2 M. beyond Annecy the high road crosses
 
 CAROLGE. 52. Route. 213 
 
 the Fier by a handsome stone bridge , and a^^end■^ the Mont des 
 Bornes. Several chateaux are situated on the hill to the 1.; fine 
 retro-^pect of Annecy and it^ environs. The road now traverses 
 a picturesque, undulating di-trict, and crosses the *sUspension- 
 bridge of La Cailte, or Font Charles Albert, 098' above the river, 
 and (379' in length, constructed in 1839. it spans the Usses, 
 thus avoiding the long circuit described by the old road. Far 
 below, in the ravine to the 1. lies a small sulphur bath (inn un- 
 pretending but goodj, to which rocky paths descend on both sides 
 of the bridge. (^Travellers in the reverse direction , from Geneva 
 to Annecy , are subjected to the formalities of the French custom- 
 house near this bridge. J 
 
 12 M. CruseiUes (^2o89'J, a small town (^pop. loOOj with the 
 ruins of an old castle, is situated at the S. base of Mont Saleve. 
 The road now skirts the mountain , high above the picturesque 
 landscape which extends to the 1.; in the distance to the W. 
 rises Mont de Vuache (3704', p. '208j. The pass (^'21UG'J between 
 Mont Sion (23oU'J and Saltve {^. l87j is now ascended, beyond 
 which a magnihcent prospect is obtained as the road descends: 
 to the r. rises Mont Saleve , in front lies the rich plain of Geneva 
 with the town, lake, and Jura chain. 
 
 9 M. St. Julian (lo38'j is the frontier town of Savoy. Carouge 
 (^r2G0'J (Balance; Ecu de SavoieJ, the Swiss frontier town, once 
 threatened to become a rival of Geneva. King Victor Aniadeus IIJ, 
 of Savoy attracted a number of workmen from Geneva hither (in 
 178UJ, by oll'ors of superior advantages; this plan was , however, 
 frustrated by the union with France in 1792, and subsequently 
 with Geneva in 181G. llorse-raihvay (p. 178j between Carouge 
 and Geneva 10 c. 
 
 The road now crosses the Arce by a bridge constructed under 
 Napoleon 1., and reaches (^1 M.) 
 
 6 M. Geneva (see p. 17?). 
 
 53. From Geneva to Chamouuy. 
 
 Distance 4y'j-.. 31. : Bonneville 15, Cluses 24, Sallauches 33 .M., theme 
 to Cliauiouny lli',- M. more. The road is uninteresting as tar as Bonne- 
 ville (p. "214), beyond which the attractions ol the landscape continiially 
 increase, (uiod walkers should take the diligence only as tar as 8t. Gervais- 
 les-Bains (p. 215), which they reach about I. '30, and proceed thence on 
 t'oiit over tlie Col de la Forclaz (p. 227). 
 
 Diligence to St. Oervais in 5'],j hrs., to Chamouny in T'l'-j hrs. The 
 return -journey to Sallanche.s occupies 2'|4 hrs., and from 8allauches tti 
 Geneva 4 hrs. only. Coupe 25, ordinary seats inside, or on the hanqutttr 
 outside 21 t'r. — Excursion - tickets from Geneva to (."hau»ouny and back by 
 Martigny ( U. 55 or K. 56) and Bouveret (Kli. 5(.». 51). or vice versa, are 
 issued. Second class tickets entitle ladies only to a mule between Cha- 
 mouny and Martigny. These tickets, however, are not recommended, as 
 little or no saving is etlected. Travellers who purchase them should satisfy 
 themselves as to the respectability of the agent who i>lVers them for sale. 
 
 Carriages (p. 178). The ordinary chai-ge for a one-horse carr. from 
 Geneva to St. Jiartin or Sallanches is 3(1 fr., thence to Chamouny 15 fr.
 
 214 Route 53. CLUSES. From Geneva 
 
 Of late years the traveller has been cliai-gert 40 fr. to St. 5Iartin. and 2() fr. 
 for the return-iniirney on the following day: one-horse carr. from St. Martin 
 to Chamouny 25 fr., return -journey on the following day 15 fr. ; for the 
 entire journey to Chamouny and hack the exorbitant sum of 100 fr. is 
 charged, with 5 fr. additional for the driver. — Those who return to 
 Geneva by a hired conveyance should make an arrangement with the 
 driver for the entire journey ; if the agreement be only to Sallanches or 
 St. ]<Iartin, the driver can exact what he pleases for the second half of 
 the journey. 
 
 The high-road to Bonneville traverses the new suburbs, pass- 
 ing villas and well-kept grounds in almost uninterrupted suc- 
 cession as far as the large village of Chene ('1355'!. The Foron 
 separates Geneva from Savoy. Annemasse flSSi'), 33/^ M. from 
 Geneva, the first Savoyard villajre , is the seat of the French 
 custom-house (no examination of luggage , as the Departn.ent of 
 the Hautes Alpes is exempt from imposts). Beyond the village, 
 in the distance to the r. , the castle of Etrambiere with its 
 four towers, is visible at the base of the Petit-Saleve, and then 
 Mornex fp. 187). The road approaches the Arve, and crosses the 
 Menoqe by a handsome bridge. 
 
 The country now becomes more picturesque. In the back- 
 ground the pyramid of the Mole (6128') bounds the landscape. 
 Beyond Nangy , on a low fir-clad eminence, stands the Chateau 
 de Pierre, the property of an Englishman ; near Contamines sur 
 Arve (1361'), to the 1. on the slope of the hill, is Chateau Villy ; 
 beyond the village , on a rocky height , are the two ruined 
 towers of the ancient castle of Faucigny ^ from which the pro- 
 vince derives its name. 
 
 15 M. Bonneville (1460') (Couronne; Balance), a small town of 
 some importance (2127 inhnb.), the capital of the province, is pictu- 
 resquely situated in a fertile valley, flanked by the rugged limestone 
 rocks of the Brezon (6059') on the v.. and the slopes of the Mole 
 on the 1. A handsome bridge here crosses the Arve, and beyond 
 it is a Monument , 95' high , in honour of King Charles Felix 
 of Sardinia. 
 
 The road now traverses low meadow-land , frequently in- 
 undated, beyond which it enters a broad and fertile valley 
 bounded by lofty mountains. Opposite Vougy the Giffre falls into 
 the Arve, on its r. bank. Srionzier, a village where horses are 
 changed, lies at the entrance of the romantic Reposoir valley. On 
 a hill to the 1. which is crossed by a road to Tanninges (p. 222), 
 is the castle of Chdtillon (view). The high-road crosses the Arve. 
 9 M. Cluses (1624') (Hotel des Balances; Union at the far- 
 ther end of the village), a little town, rebuilt since the fire of 
 1844, chiefly inhabited by watchmakers: 1. near the entrance 
 the Ecole d'Horlogerie. Beyond Balme (1624'), IV2 M. from 
 Cluses , two cannons planted by the roadside near an inn make 
 a rude assault upon the nerves and the echoes for a fee of 
 1 fr. In the precipitous bluish-yellow limestone rock , 800' above
 
 to Chamouny. SALLANCHES. 53. Route. 215 
 
 the bank of the river, the entrance to a stalactite -p:Totto is 
 visible on the 1. ; it is however difficult of access, and possesses 
 no very remarkable features (3 fr. each pers.)- 
 
 Before Magland is reached, a laree stream issues from the 
 rocks at the side of the road, which Saussure conjectured to flow 
 from the small Tmc de Flaive, on the height. There is a fine 
 echo here. On the 1. the ru<r{red precipices of the Ah/uilles de 
 Vfirevs r8960')- The cascade of Arpenaz , which after rain as- 
 sumes imposing dimensions, is visible for a long distance, and 
 bears some resemblance to the Staubbach. 
 
 The valley now expands. The road traverses a district de- 
 vastated by torrents of mud and detritus fcomp. Tntrod. XTII). 
 .\s the villnjip of St. Martin (Hotel da Montblanc) is approached, 
 the da/zlinsr peaks of Mont Blanc become visible. Its stupendous 
 dimensions seem to annihilate the intervening space , which is no 
 loss than 12 M. in a straisrht line. Above the broad bed of the 
 Arve. in the same direction, rises Mont Forclaz f4921'), with its 
 fir-clad slopes. Beyond it are the Aiguilles du Gouter and the 
 Dome du Gnuter. \ handsome bridge crosses the Arve to 
 
 9 M. Sallanches fl793') fBellevue, where diligence pass- 
 engers dine ; Chdet Suisse) , a small town fl981 inhab.l , re- 
 built since the fire of 1840, where the new high-road, con- 
 structed by the French Government on the 1. bank of the 
 Arve, begins, enabling the diligences to run the whole way 
 to Chamouny. .\bout IV4 hr. liter these vehicles stop at the 
 Baths of St. Gervais (20(i6') {*H6tel), a small, but much 
 frequented watering place with sulphureous springs, situated 
 on the Bon-\ant fall mountain streams are termed 'Nant' in 
 Savoy) , which forms a picturesque waterfall at the back of 
 the bath-establishment, termed '/>« Cascade de Crepin. 
 
 The Village of St. Gervais (/fotcl du Afont Joli, du Montblanc, de 
 Oei'h'p) lies on tlu- road to Contniiiincs (p. 230) 550' liipher than the baths. 
 
 Pedestrians may quit the dilifionce at St. Gervais and walk thence 
 over the f'ol de la Forrlaz (5134'), a pnss between the Tete Xoire, men- 
 tioned helow. nnd tlie Prarioii (6497'), direct to Le Fouilly and Les Ilouches 
 in 6 — 7 hrs. : {ruidi> desirahk'. 6 fr. (conip. map p. 216). 
 
 The road again approaches the Arve, and skirts the base of the 
 Tete Noire ("5800') , a mountain not to be confounded with the 
 Tete Noire between Martigny ami Chamouny. On the. opposite 
 bank lies the village of Chede, then Servoz , villages on the old 
 road on the r. bank of the river. (A path from Servoz to 8ixt 
 ascends the valley of the Dinza , uniting with the bridle-path 
 from Chamouny at the foot of the Col dWnterne, p. 221.) Beyond 
 (A M.) the hamlet of Le Lac the road ascends Les Montets, a rocky 
 ridge separating the lower from the upper region of the valley. 
 From the summit the vast proportions of Mont Blanc, now in the 
 iujuiediate vicinity, are strikingly imposing. The handets of 
 Les Chavants., Le Fouilly, and Les Trubots are next passed.
 
 21(3 Route 54. CHAMOUNY. 
 
 Les Ouches, or Les Houchts (^3i4o'J (two poor auberges), tlie 
 lirst village in the valley of Chamouny , half-way between Servoz 
 and Chamouny , celebrated for its honey , lies on the old road, 
 on the opposite bank of the river. The glaciers gradually 
 become visible , but the nature of the surrounding objects is ,-o 
 stupendous that the mind can hardly at tir^t comprehend the vastness 
 of their proportion.^. The tirst are the (jtaciers de Gria and de 
 T aeon ay ; then the Glacier des Bossons near the village of that 
 name , with its lofty pyramid> of blue ice , which , as it extend-) 
 farthest into the valley , is apparently the mo^t extensive. In 
 the distance is the Glacier des Bois , the lower part of the Mer 
 d€ Glace. 
 
 b M. Chamouny (3445 'j. 
 
 54. Chamouny and its Environs. 
 
 Hdtela. "Hotels Imperial, Royal, Union, Angleterre and 
 Lend res, Couronne, and Palais de Cristal all belong to a com- 
 pany i ''Hotel du Montblanc. Charges in all: R. from 2. L. i,-.., A. 1, 
 B. i'^^■i — 2, table d'hote at 5 and 8 iVcl. 4 fr. Hotel Pension Couttet, 
 new,R. 2— 3.B. 11,4. D.oi,v fr. — Ho tel de France, moderate. K.2, B. H.U, 
 pension 5 fr. Hotel des Alpes; Hotel delaPaix, unpretending, 
 well spoken ol'. — A u .\ B a 1 a n c e s . .\ la R e u nio n d e s Am is . both 
 unpretending. — As much is usually charged for a slight meal as for the 
 table d'hote dinner. — Cafe de la Terras se, near the bridge. 
 
 Guides. A guide is unnecessary for the ordinary excursions to Mon- 
 tanvert and the F lege re. The paths are so minutely described in the 
 following paged that it is almost impossible to mistake them, whilst they 
 are so much fre(iuented that opportunities of making inquiries constantly 
 recur. Should a guide be considered necessary for the C h a p e a u one may 
 be engaged at Les Tine^, where a boy may also be hired for 1 — 2 fr. The 
 following extract is made from the - Htgltmtnt et Tavif des Guidts de 
 Cha7iwnix"'. of Jlarch 8th. 1862. Travellers are provided with guides by 
 the Guide Chef, who is bound t-o employ each in turn, the traveller having 
 no choice except in four cases: (1). When a Course extraordinaire (see 
 below) is contemplated i C~J- ^\ hen an excursion is made for scientilic 
 purposes; (3). \\'hen the traveller speaks no French, and the guide is 
 unacquainted with the language of the traveller; (4|. When travellers 
 have previously employed a certain guide and desire to re-engage the 
 same, or when ladies alone wish to engage a particular guide. -- Each 
 guide must be furnished with a badge, with his number and the words: 
 '■Compagnie den Guides de Chatiionix\ Hotel-keepers, waiters, etc. are for- 
 bidden to recommend particular guide^s. A guide who loses his way in 
 favourable weather is excluded from the 'compagnie'. Complaints to be 
 made to the ' Guide Chef. 
 
 The excursions are divided into Courses Ordinaires and Courses Extra- 
 ordinaires. 
 
 Courses Ordinaires : Flegere and Source de PAr- 
 
 Glacier des Bossons 3 fr.. ditto ; veiron 6 f r 
 
 incl. Cascades du Dad and i Brt^vent by Plampraz 8, by 
 
 du Pelerin 4ij,< fr. the Flt^gere and desc. by 
 
 Source de PArveiron 3, ditto Plampraz 10 fr. 
 
 incl. Montanvert, Mer de Montanvert, Mer de Glace, 
 Glace , Mauvais Pas , and Chapeau , and Fl»fg^re in 
 Cbapeau 8 fr. one day 12 fr.
 
 A IS 
 
 ^-*7^^.^ 
 
 ■^.^ 

 
 CHAMOUNY. 64. Route. 217 
 
 I'ierrc de rEclielle .... Iw Ir. I'avill.m de Bellevue, Guide 
 
 Jardiu, back by tlie Chapeau 12 fr. \ dza or rrairion .... (i fr. 
 
 Col de Balme, incl. Cascades ■ Contamine.s by the Col du 
 
 de Berl)ariuc and de Berard Tiicot 10 fr. 
 
 in one day 9, in two days . 12 i'r. . „ ,, , , 
 
 Buet and de.sc! to Si.xt. incl. Cou,s,i Lxlraordinair.s: 
 
 return-fee, in owe day "23, in j Mont Blanc Umir. 
 
 two days 28 fr. ■ Grands Mulets and back in onf 
 
 Jlartigny" by Col de Balme day 15, in two days . . . 2,') fr. 
 
 or Tete >;oire (incl. return- Couraiayeur by the Col dii 
 
 fee 12 fr. 
 
 Sixt by the Brevent and Col 
 
 d'Anterne in one day (incl. 
 
 return-fee) 14 fr. 
 
 Sixt by Servoz and Col d\\n- 
 
 terne 16 fr. 
 
 Ceant iXt Ir. 
 
 Col du Tour and back . . . J^i fr. 
 
 Glacier - excursions on the 
 Mont Blanc chain , above 
 the zone of vegetation, per 
 diem iLi fr. 
 
 The guides are bound on the Courses ordinaires to carry baggage of 
 12 kilogr. (24 Ibs.)^ in weight; on the Courses extraordinaires ; 7 kilogr. 
 (14 lbs.) only. 
 
 Guides from Jlartigny are prohibited from acting as such at Chamouny ; 
 but the prohibition dues not extend to guides from German Su itzerland 
 and Courmayeur. The majority of the Chumouny guides are well-informed 
 and respectable. 
 
 Mules. With the exception of the excursion to the 31untanvert and 
 Chapeau (Ufr. ), and to the Muntanvert for the purpuse of visiting the 
 JarUin, returning to Chamouny in the evening ( 7 fr. ). the same charge.^ 
 are made as for the ' coiirse.s ordinaire.s' fif the guides. 
 
 The Collection of Pictures of M. Lopp^, a talented painter of .Alpine 
 scenery, situated at the back of the Hotel Koyal, on the path to the 
 Muntanvert, merits a vi.sit. .Vdmissiou gratis. 
 
 English Church Service during the season. 
 
 Travellers intending to spend one day only at Chamouny, should ascend 
 the Montanvert (p. 218) in the morning (2'hrs.). thence cross the Mer de Glace 
 (p. 219) to the Chapeau (p. 219) (l'J4 hr.), then descend to Les Tines (p. 219) 
 (3j4 hr.), and from ( 'jv> hr.) Les Pra/. (p. 220) ascend the Flegere (p. 210) 
 (2'J,i hrs.), and de.scend in i'^n hr. Early in the morning the path to Mon- 
 tanvert is in the shade, in the afternoon that to the FlegOre is at least 
 partly so, and by this arrangement the traveller reaches the Flegere at 
 the time nu)st favourable for observing Mont Blanc. If time and strength 
 permit, the traveller may visit the Source of the Arveinm (p. 221, ';•.• hr. 
 from l.es I'raz, 1 hr. from Chamouny ), im his return from the Flegere. 
 For this excursion a guide is only necessary acn)ss the Mer de Glace (see 
 p. 219). Those who ride must send their mules round from .Muntanvert to 
 Les Tines or the Chapeau. The excursion to the Flegere alone occupies 
 about b hrs. (ascent 2'j2. rest 'j-.. hr., descent i^n hr. ), to the Muntanvert 
 or the Chapeau and the Suurce of the .\rveiron also 5 hrs. — It is, how- 
 ever, needless to say that one day cannot possibly suftice fur the thorough 
 appreciation and enjoyment oi these e.vcursiims, which, moreover, will 
 somewhat too severely tax the strength of the ordinary traveller. Those 
 who come from the E., and have spent the night at .\rgentiere, should 
 leave the high-road near Lavancher ( p. 224 ) and proceed by way of the 
 Chapeau. the Mer the Glace, and Montanvert to Chamouny! Those who 
 have spent the night at the Col de Balme ( p. 227) or Tete Noire (p. 225), 
 and arrive at Chanu)uny about noon, may quit the road before Luvanchtr 
 is reached, and proceed by La Jou.r on the r. bank of the Arve to the 
 Flegere (comp. p. 224). 
 
 An e.xcursion to the Qlacier des Bossons itself (p. 216) is an agree- 
 able mode of spending a cloudy afternoon, when the views from the 
 heights are concealed. There and back 4 — 4'|ahr3. : by the old road to 
 the Font de i'enalotae, then to the 1. to the tJdtel des fy'ranxides (a chalet 
 visible from a long distance), thence acwss the glacier (with guide), and
 
 ^18 Route 54. CHAMOUNY. Montanvert. 
 
 hack I)y the picturesque Cascade du Pelerin. — The Jardin (p. 220), 
 9 — 10 hVs. there and back, occupies an entire day. Travellers wishing to 
 economise their strengfth. or intendinjr to descend by the Chapeau to 
 Argentiere or farther, should spend the night on the Montanvert. — The 
 ascent of the Brevent (p. 224) requires 6 — 7 hrs. from Chamouny (there 
 and back), ascent or descent by the Flesfere 2 hrs. more. 
 
 The Valley of Chamouny (3445'), 15 M. long, ^/^ M. wide, 
 is traversed by the Arve., and stretches in a direct line from 
 N.E. to S.W. towards Les Ouches fp. 216): it is bounded on 
 the S.W. by the chain of Mont Blanc, with its gigantic ice- 
 cataracts, the Glacier du Tour., d'Arqentiere, des Boh (Mer de 
 Glace), and des Bossons; on the N.W. by the Aiguilles Rouges 
 and the Brevent. 
 
 A Benedictine priory first brought the valley into cultivation at the 
 beginning of the 12th cent. So bad was its reputation in those early days 
 that travellers came armed, and spent the night in tents which were 
 strictly guarded, rather than trust themselves under the roofs of the in- 
 habitants, who were little better than a horde of bandits. The sobriquet 
 of Les Montagues Maudites acted as a ban upon the district. On one 
 occasion St. Francis de Sales, Bishop of Geneva (1602 to 1622), visited the 
 then pathless wilds on foot, which was considered an act of the greatest 
 temerity : indeed had the saintly man come with his mitre and crozier, it 
 is doubtful if his visit would have been so free from disastrous con- 
 sequences. The valley became better known in 1740. when the celebrated 
 traveller Pococke. and another Engli.shman named Wyndham vit;ited and 
 explored it in all directions, and published the result of their observations 
 in the Merc are de Suisse. An impulse was thus given to the curiosity and 
 enterprise of the public, which was still further stimulated by the pulili- 
 cations of the Genevese naturalists de Saussure. de Luc. Bourrit, Pictet, 
 and others. Since that time Chamouny, like the Bernese Oberland (R. 29). 
 has become a great central point of attraction for travellers, especially 
 English. Americans, and French, upwards of 15.000 visitors visiting it an- 
 nually. Chamouny is inferior to the Bernese Oberland in picturesqueness of 
 scenery, but superior in the grandeur of its glaciers; in the latter respect 
 Zermatt (R. 68) alone can vie with Chamounv. 
 
 The *M:ontanvert (6302') (ascent 2, descent IV4 hrs.), an 
 eminence opposite the Flegere , on the E. side of the valley . is 
 visited solely for the view it affords of the immense sea of ice 
 which fills the highest gorges of the chain of Mont Blanc with its 
 three arms (Glacier du Geant or du Tacul , Glacier de Lechaud, 
 Glacier de Talefre), and, at length uniting in the form of a 
 stream of ice about 13 M. long and l^/.^ to 4t/.2 M. wide, extends 
 into the valley of Chamouny. The upper portion of this stream 
 is termed the Mer de Glace , the lower the Glacier des Bois. From 
 Montanvert the motionless billows, for so they may be called, of 
 the Mer de Glace are visible for a distance of 6 M.. but the huge 
 pinnacles of the Glacier des Bois are concealed from view. The 
 footpath from Chamouny passes the Hotel de TUnion . crosses by a 
 bridge to the 1. bank of the Arve, and runs diagonally across the 
 meadows (the middle track preferable) to a house (.1/4 hr.), 
 where it turns to the r. towards the mountain. The broad and 
 easy bridle-path ascends from the hamlet situated at the foot of 
 the mountain , to which a carriage-road leads past the English 
 Church on the 1. bank in a straight direction up the valley. It
 
 Mer de GUice. CIIAMOUNY. 54. Route. 219 
 
 then traverses a pine-forest, somewhat steep at places, passing 
 nninerons tracks of avalanches. Half-way is a spring of fresh 
 water, the Caillet, formerly shaded by trees ; bnt these have been 
 swept away by avalanches f refreshments at a hut"). The path 
 turns to the r. about ^/^ hr. farther , and the *Mer de Glace 
 and the mountains enclosing it are now immediately opposite to 
 the spectator. 
 
 The surface of the Mer de Glace, de Saussure observes, ' resembles 
 that of a sea which has lieoome suddenly frozen . rot durinfr a tem- 
 j.c'st, but iit the instant when the wind has sulisided , and the waves, 
 although very high, have become blunted and rounded. These great waves 
 are nearly parallel to the length of the glacier, and are intersected Vjy 
 tran.sverse crevasses, the interior of which appears blue, whilst the ice is 
 white on its e.xternal surface'. 
 
 In 1779 the illustrious Goethe visited this magnificent scene. 
 He mentions in his journal the fact of an Englishman named 
 Rlairc having erected a convenient hut upon the spot, from the 
 window of which he and his guests could survey the sea of ice. 
 This hut still exists, and affords accommodation for the guides. 
 Adjoining it is an Inn (240' above the glacier), where tolerable 
 refreshments and accommodation may be procured. The path 
 descending directly to the Source of the An^eiron fp. 2*21) is 
 precipitous and difficult, and therefore scarcely suitable for ladies. 
 
 From Moiitanvert it is usual to cross the *Mer de Glace fi" 
 11/4 hr.") to the Chapeau (see below), which lies opposite. The route 
 across the glacier fV-i ^r. , guide 2 fr. . to the Chapeau 4- fr.), 
 practicable for ladies , is annually rendered easy and safe by 
 the guides by means of steps hewn in the ice , waymarks , etc. 
 The services of a guide are, however . very desirable , as the 
 route varies with the direction of the crevasses, which are always 
 changing their form. The Mauvais Pas, where for a short dis- 
 tance the path is hewn in the rock on the N.E. side of the 
 glacier in the form of steps , near the Chapeau , was formerly 
 a giddy and hazardous point, but the iron rods now attached to 
 the rocks afford perfect security to the traveller. The excursion 
 is easier in the reverse direction (from the Chapeau to Montanvert), 
 but in this case the traveller cannot rely with certainty on finding 
 a guide for the passage of the Mer de Glace. 
 
 The *Chapeau (oOS'}') fauberge). a limestone precipice on the 
 N.E. side of the glacier, nearly opposite the Montanvert . at the 
 base of the AiyuiUe.s du Borhard , is considerably lower than the 
 Montanvert. but commands fine views of the Aiguilles de Charnioz 
 f 1 1,293') and de Bletiere as far as Mont Blanc, the beautiful 
 Glacier des Bois with its innumerable ice-pinnacles, and the valley 
 of Chamouny below. The route from Chamouny diverges from 
 the high road near (3 M.) Les Tines (p. 224), and then ascends, 
 traversing part of a former moraine, in 1 hr. to the inn. This 
 path can hardly be mistaken. Across the Mer de Glace to the 
 Montanvert, see above.
 
 220 Route 54. CHAMOUNY. Fiegere. 
 
 The Jardin (^9143'; guide jiecessary, 12 fr.) is a triangular 
 ro.'k rising from the mid?t of the Glacier de Talefre, and walled 
 in by its moraine on all sides. In August several species of 
 flowers bloom on the brink of this oasis in the wilderness of ice. 
 From the Montanvert or the Chapeau the moraines and glaciers 
 (_Mer de Gla^ej must be traversed for 'I^/.y — -o hrs. as far as the 
 foot of the Seracs de Talefre, the precipitous 8.\V. slope of the 
 Glacier de Talefre [ov the traveller may proceed from the Chapeau 
 across rocks and moraine , without descending to the glacier , but 
 ladle ^ are recommended not to attempt this routej. Here the 
 guides formerly turned to the 1. , and skirted the base of the 
 CouvercLe (8ri52'J and the Aiguille da Moine [11,214'), but they 
 now prefer to ascend the moraine to the r. , on the S. side of 
 the Seracs (^/4hr. ; a stone hut half-way upj. Finally there re- 
 mains a walk of 2omin. across the Talefre Glacier to the Jardin. 
 This excursion, which atfords an imposing survey of the icy wilder- 
 nesses of the Mont Blanc group, although somewhat fatiguing, is 
 now frequently undertaken by ladies. 
 
 The *Flegere (5957 'J (ascent from Chamouny 2^/4; descent P/4, 
 or including a visit to the Source of the Arveiron 2^2 hrs.), an 
 eminence to the N. of Chamouny, is a buttress of the Aiguille 
 de la Floria (9543') , one of the highest peaks of the Aiguilles 
 Rouges. The road from Chamouny ascends the valley to (I'/i *^^-) 
 Les Praz (p. 224) , and here crosses the Arce by a bridge (the 
 footpath on the r. bank is often marshy , and should therefore 
 be avoided, especially as the saving etlected is inconsiderable). 
 In the village the road divides , to the r. to the Source of the 
 Arveiron (1^2 ^^0 > to the 1. to the Fle'gere; on arriving at a 
 small lir-wood (1/2 ^I-) ^^^ I'oad is quitted, and the path to 
 the 1. followed, which recrosses to the r. bank (5 min.) , at the 
 base of the mountain ; the barren and stony slope is then ascended 
 by a good bridle-path. After '"^/^ hr. the wood is entered to 
 the r.; 8 min, , the Grand Naiit , a mountain torrent, is crossed, 
 and in 11/4 hr. more the Croix de la Fiegere (02(30') is reached 
 (poor inn, high charges). The *view embraces the entire chain 
 of Mont Blanc, from the Col de Balme (the inn on which is 
 clearly discernible) , to the "Glacier des Bossons , which extends 
 ijito the valley to the S. ; Mont Blanc with its vast snow-tields 
 is visible from summit to base. From no point of view do the 
 jagged pinnacles which surround the Aiguille Verte (13,540') appear 
 so striking as from here; the rugged summits of the Aiguilles 
 Rouges also have a singular aspect. A great portion of the Glacier 
 des Bois (Mer de Glace) is surveyed. The view is seen to the 
 best advantage by evening light. Comp. Panorama. — Travellers 
 approaching Chamouny from Argentiere may ascend by La Joux 
 (pp. 217, 224) to Les Pres Hauls (guide not absolutely necessary),
 
 '^:yy,- ^,v/.., 
 
 
 f// ,/ f/,./.„/„->^
 
 Brevent. CHAMOUNY. 64. Route. 221 
 
 and walk along the brow of the hills opposite the Mont Blajic 
 chain in the direction of the cross on the FMg^re. 
 
 For the descent from the FMgore to the foot of the moun- 
 tain 1 hr. amply snftlce.s. After the Arve is crossed, a path to 
 the 1., before the village of Les Praz is reached, leads by the 
 village of Les Bois and a flr-clad moraine of the Glacier des 
 Bois , in ^/^ hr. to the Source of the Arveiron , which here Issues 
 from the Glacier des Bois through an arch of ice fillumination 
 1/2 fr-) 5 usually closed in winter. During some seasons this spot 
 hardly merits a visit. It is dangerous to venture under the 
 ice-arch . as blocks of ice frequently become detached. In 1868 
 a young English lady lost her life hr this manner. On the road 
 near the glacier is an inn. 'Au Tourhte; carriage witli four seats 
 to (3 M.) Chamouny 5 fr. 
 
 The Brevent (8284'), the S. prolongation of the Aiguilles 
 ]{ouges , affords nearly the same view as the Fle'gere (see above); 
 but Mont Blanc is here disclosed to the spectator in all its gran- 
 deur , whilst from the Fle'gere the Mer de Glace and the Aiguille 
 Verte are the most conspicuous objects. From this point the 
 direction of the usual route to the summit of Mont Blanc may 
 be distinctly traced: and with the aid of a telescope the Chalet 
 do la Pierre Pointue (6722'), and the two stone huts on the 
 (irands Mulets (10,007'), the two stations for spending the night, 
 may also be seen. The new bridle-path to the Brt^vent leaves the 
 village on the W.. and passes the church ("Chemin Muletier de 
 Chamonix h Sixt'). In 2'/2 l^rs- the chalets of Plan Praz, or 
 Plambraz (6772') (Inn, poor and dear) are reached. From this 
 ])oint a tolerable path to the 1. ascends to the trigonometrical 
 signal on the summit (P/o ^^r.); the latter portion ('La Chemin^e') 
 steep and stony. Guide, not necessary, but agreeable from Plan 
 Praz upwards. • — The ascent of the Brevent may also be combined 
 with that of the Fle'gere. The 'Route du Planpraz' diverges to 
 the r. (S.AV.) from the FMgere path, about 20 min. below the 
 Croix de la Fle'gere , and leads in 2 hrs. to the chalets of 
 Plan Praz, which are visible from the Flegcre. At places, however, 
 the path is not well marked. 
 
 From Chamouny to Six thy the Col d 11 Brevent and the 
 Col (rAnterne (21 M.) in 9—10 hrs.; mule 18 I'r.. return-fee included: 
 iiuide (unnecessary) 18 t'r. The route is by the well-dermi»d Chtiniii Muletier 
 already mentioned, and can hardly be mistaken. From Chamouny to the 
 chalets of Plav Praz (dear auberpe) 2'(i. hrs.. thence to the summit of the Col 
 du Brevent (8078') 1 hr. i then down a slope richly clad with Idlberry, rasp- 
 berry, and many other plants, into the valley of the Dioza (5413') (path from 
 Servoz, see p. 215), which is crossed by a wooden bridge (I'l'^hr.). [If at- 
 tended by a guide, the traveller mav here turn U\ the r. and proceed bv the 
 chalets of Silly and the Col de Salenton (8277') in G— fi'l'.' lirs. to the sum- 
 mit of the Buet , see below.] The path to the Col d'Anteme ascends to 
 the 1., turning afterwards to the r. : 2'|'i hrs., summit of the pass (7428'), 
 whence a magnificent retrospect of Mont Blanc is obtained. Then a descent 
 by the Chalets de.'! Fonds (milk), above which the path unites with the 
 usual Mont Buet route. "The picturesquely situated house which here
 
 2*22 Houte >U. CHAMOUNY. Mont Bland, 
 
 'jverlooks the lovvei' pai-t of the valley, is the .•sumuicm-esideiice of an 
 Englishman. The bridle-path now descends the picturesque Vallee des 
 Fonds^ watered by a tributary of the Giilre (see below). Before (I'j-i hr.) 
 Salvagny is reached, a fine cascade may be seen descending fnjm the moun- 
 tain on the 1. Then (i|4hr.) Sixt (2434' j (Hotel du Fer a Cheval, established 
 in an old monastery, il. and L. 3, D. 3'|-.> fr., sometimes crowded towards 
 evening). In spring, when the brooks are swollen by the melting of the 
 snow, the environs of Sixt abound in magnificent waterfalls, which are 
 precipitated from the mountains in every direction. In the upper part of 
 the valley alone, termed Vallee du Fer a Cheval fi-om its resemblance to 
 a horse-shoe, there are as many as 30 of these cascades. In summer and 
 autumn, however, the number dwindles down to five or six, and a visit 
 to the falls does not repay the fatigue. Kear Fond de la Combe, at the 
 extremity of the valley, 3 his. from Sixt, there is a vault of snow, 100 
 paces long, containing another waterfall, to which travellers may drive. 
 The above route is far preferable in the reverse direction : Sixt to the 
 Chalets des Fonds 1^(4 hr. 5 a few min. farther the bridle-path turns to the 
 r. and crosses the brook (the path to the 1. ascends to the Col Lecliaud, or Col des 
 Fonds, whence the Buet may be ascended ; by this route from the chalets to the 
 summit of the Buet and down to Chamouny 9 — 10 hrs., guide from Sixt 
 necessary, 15 fr.); 3 hrs. Col d'Anterne, whence in clear weather a most 
 striking view of Mont Blanc is obtained. At the foot of the Col the path 
 turns to the 1. (that to the r. leads to Servo/,) ; 1 hr. bridge over the 
 Dio'/a : 2 hrs. Col du Brevent, where another superb survey of the Mont 
 Blanc chain is enjoyed; 3j^ hr. Chalets de Plan Fraz ; i^i hr. Chamouny. 
 In line weather this route, or still better that of the Col des Fonds and 
 the Buet, is by far the most impressive way of approaching the chain of 
 xMont Blanc. — A path leads from Sixt to the'X.E. over the Col du Sageroua- 
 (7Uir) to Champery, see p. 207. 
 
 In the valley of the iff re, 41J4 M. below Sixt, is situated Samoens 
 (Hotel de la Foste; Hotel du Commerce, cuisine tolerable:, both uninviting), 
 a small town with 3000 inhab., whence the traveller may either cross the 
 Col de Jourplaine (5(jit)') , or the Col iioleze (5469') to (4 hr.s.) Morzine 
 (Hotel du Chamois), and thence descend the valley of the Dranse to Thonon 
 on the Lake of (>eneva (p. 2U5). Ur from Samoens by omnibus through 
 the valley of the Giilre (once daily in 7 hrs., fare 4 fr.), via Tanninges and 
 at. Jeoire, to Geneva (where the omnibus stops at the small and indillerent 
 Hotel de Savoie, Kue de Kive 13). From Samoens to Geneva at 4. 30 a. m., 
 from Geneva to Samoens at 2. 30 p. m. — From Samoens by the Col de 
 Goleze and the Col de Couz to Champery in 6—7 hrs., see p. 207. 
 
 From C ii a m o u n y to Sixt by A r g e n t i e r e a n d the Mont 
 Buet; an interesting, but fatiguing 'route 11—12 hrs. (guide necessary). 
 2 hrs. Argentiere. see p. 224. Thence ^|4 hr. on the Tete Noire route as 
 far as the entrance to the Birard Valley, up which the path leads to the 
 Pierre a Berard chalets (refreshin. and beds: those who desire to reach 
 tlie summit early should sleep here; or the previous night may be passed 
 at Argentiere). Then over the snow for 2'|-j hrs. to the summit of the 
 Buet (10,197'); magnificent prospect over the Chain of Montblanc, Monte 
 Rosa, the Matterhonu the Bernese Alps with theFinsteraarhorn andJungfrau, 
 the Uent du Midi, and the Jura as far as the mountains of Dauphine. De- 
 scent of 23J4 hrs. by the Col Lechaud or Col des Fonds to the Chalets des 
 Fonds (milk). Bridle-path hence by Halvagny to Sixt in I'jz hr. 
 
 Mont Blanc (15,781'), the monarch of European mountains 
 (Monte Ro.^a 15,217', Finsteraarhorn 14, 021)', Ortler r2,81'2', the 
 Pic de Nethou, or Maladetta, the highest of the Pyrenees, 11,'233'j, 
 which since 1860 has formed the boundary between France and Italy, 
 is composed chiefly of Alpine granite or protogine. It was ascended 
 for tlie first time in 1786 by an intrepid guide named Jacques 
 Balmat. On his return a serious illness attacked liim, caused by 
 the fatigue and exposure which he had undergone, and he was
 
 o/, du (riant CHAMOfNY, 5^. Route, 223 
 
 skilfully attended by a local physician , Dr. Paccard , to whom he 
 made known his discovery. On the recovery of Balmat he accom- 
 panied the doctor to the .-,ununit , which they reached after a 
 succession of perilous adventures. Jacques Balmat, \vho>e name 
 is a household word amongst the fraternity of guides , lived 49 
 years after his first as'-ent , and at the advanced age of 70 met 
 Ills death whilst in pursuit of the chamois. In iT<S7 the ascent was 
 made by the celebrated iiaturali>t De .Suussure , ac(;ompanied by 
 1 ? guides , and the results of his expedition were received with 
 great interest by the scientitic world. In iU'lb the summit was 
 attained by Dr. E. Clarke and Captain JSherwill , and in 1827 by 
 Mr. Auldjo , who published a highly interesting account of his 
 ascent. These may be considered the principal pioneers of a 
 route now annually trodden by numbers. The ascent is now 
 made about 4U times annually , and in fine weather is attended 
 with no very serious difficulty or danger. Travellers are however 
 earnestly cautioned against attempting the expedition in foggy or 
 stormy weather. A party of eleven persons perished in a storm 
 <luring the ascent iji 1870, and a young English lady and a guide 
 were precipitated into a crevasse near the Grands Mulets the same 
 year in consequence of having neglected the important precaution 
 of attaching themselves together by a rope. 
 
 On the lirst day tlie tiaveller.-> generally ascend via the Chalets dt la 
 Pieirt Fointue ((Ji'22'J, which may be reached on the back ui' a mule, to the 
 O rands Mulets UU,007'J, where the night is spent atone of the two stone huts ; 
 on the second they proceed to the summit, and back to the Grands JIulcts, and 
 on the third Chamouny is regained (or the entire descent may be made on 
 the second dayj. Those who make tlie ascent from *S7. Geivais (p. 215), by 
 the I'avillon de Bellevut (p. '2'29j, spend a night on the Aiguille du Ooiiter, 
 where the guides of St. Uervais have erected a hut. The two routes, 
 from Cliamouny and from St. Gervais, unite on the Grand Plateau (about 
 rj,30U'), an ice-valley forming the source of the Glacier des Bossons (p. "ilG) 
 and tlie Glacier de Tacouaij (p. 21G), which separate near the Grands Mulets 
 (see above). The view from tlie summit is not commensurate with the fatigue 
 necessary to reach it: in consequence of the great distance, all objects appear 
 indistinct; even in the most favourable weatlier only the outlines of tlie 
 great chains, the Swiss Alps, the Jura, and the Apennines are distinguishable. 
 The ascent is, moreo\er, very exjjensive : one traveller requires 2 guides 
 (IWJfr. each) and a porter (4Ufr.) and lor eaili adilitioiial person one guide 
 or porter more is desirable, but experienced mountaineers require com- 
 paratively fewer. Kesides this there are other expenses for provisions, 
 wine, etc., so that the ascent of .Mont IJlanc can seldom be made under 
 35'-) to 4UU fr. for each person. 
 
 Tour du Mont Blanc, see U. 57. 
 
 From Chamouny to Co ur ma y e u r (p. 232) direct by the Gol du 
 Geant (11,(I2<'), a tliflicult and fatiguing glacier-pass, not to lie attempte.i 
 except by experienieil mountaineers. This pass was long consiihTcd the 
 highest among the .Vlps, and altliough recent discoveries have deprived it 
 of this rank, it continues to be one of tlie grandest and most interestiug. It 
 traverses the .Uer de ('lace on the \V. side of tlie lofty Tacul. the <: lacier 
 du Cieaut between Rognon on the r., and the Aiguille du Geant on the 1., 
 and tlien descends alnuist perpendicular rocks 'into tlie Val d'Knti-eves; 
 altogether 12- 15 hrs. Tiiis excursion is no longer altfn<ied with serious 
 danger, as most ttf the guides are now thoroughly acquainted with tlie 
 route. The fatal accident, by which three Knglishmen lost their lives nu
 
 224 Route 66. AKCJENTlfeRE. 
 
 this pass in 1861, was occasionerl by their neglect of the necessary precaution 
 of binding themselves together with the rope, instead of which" thev merelv 
 held it with their hands. 
 
 55. From Chamouny to Martigny by the Tete-Noire, 
 or to Vernayaz by Trinquent and Salvan. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. 216. 
 
 To Le Chatelard 4'J2 hrs., thence over the Tete Noire to Martigny 4iJ4, 
 or by Salvan to Vernayaz 3')2 — 4 hrs. Carriape-road as far as Arge'ntitre, 
 thence a bridle-path to the H(jtel de la Tete Xoire, beyond which there 
 is a carriage road to Martigny. If a carriage be taken as far as Argenti^re 
 (one-horse 6, two-horse 10 — 12 fr.), the remainder of the distance can easily 
 be accomplished on foot in one day, even by ladies, if they are good walkers. 
 At the hotels of Barherine (p. 22.0). or Le Chatelard, half-way, guides with 
 horses returning to Martigny ofter their services for a few francs. The 
 following directions render a guide unnecessary. Those who Peave Chamouny 
 early can reach Geneva on the same day by taking the railway at 
 Martigny (or by steamboat from Bouveret or Villeneuve, see RR. 50, 51) ; 
 they may also reach Vispach (R. 63) by railway fas far as Sierre) and 
 diligence, or the Baths of Leuk (on foot from Sierre, s. p. 225). — By 
 making a digression of 2 hrs. (with a guide), the view from the Col de 
 Balme may lie combined with the Tete-Xoire. The guides (p. 227) by 
 this longer route are entitled to an additional pay of 3 fr. 
 
 Three Bridie-Paths connect the valley of Chamouny with the Valais 
 viz. those described in the present and the following route. The path by 
 the T(?te-Xoire to Martigny and that leading via Salvan to Vernayaz are by 
 far the most interesting and beautiful, as well as less fatiguing, whilst the 
 third, traversing the Col de Balme, commands a superb view of the Valley 
 of Chamouny and Mont Blanc, which are not visible from the Tete-Noire 
 route. These, however, are familiar to persons quitting Chamouny, who. 
 therefore, will do well to select the Tete-Noire route, while those who 
 come from Martigny should choose the Col de Balme, if the weather be 
 favourable. In misty weather all hope of a view from the Col de Balme 
 must be abandoned. 
 
 The road ascends from Chamouny (3445') by the Arve., 
 which it crosses by a bridp:e near (IVj M.) Les Praz. The village 
 and Glacier des Boia (Sour.'o of the Arveiron, p. 221, a digression 
 of 20 min.) are left on the r. ; (IV2 ^0 -^^^ Tines (Au Touriste, 
 tolerable!: (3/4 M.) Lavancher (3848'). A little farther, on the 
 opposite bank of the Arve. are the groups of houses of La Joux\ 
 whence the Flegere may be ascended by travellers coming from 
 Argentiere. Then Les lies and Grasonet. Ci^/o M.) Argentiere 
 (4236') (*Couronne, R. 172—2. B. 1 . D. 21/2: A. 1/2 *>• : 
 *Bellevue) , the third largest village in the valley, near which 
 the huge glacier of the same name descends into the valley 
 between the Aiguille Verte (13,450') arid the Aiguille de Chardonnet. 
 
 Beyond the village the road to the r. follows the course of 
 the Arve to Tour and the Col de Balme (21/.2 hrs. , see p. 227: 
 the inn on the Col is visible almost all the way); the path to 
 the 1. traverses a wild ravine, which, like that on the "W. side 
 of the valley (p. 215)., bears the name of Les Montets. Be- 
 yond the (V4^r.) hamlet of Trelechamp , the (20 min.) summit 
 of the pass (Col des Montets, 481 9'J, indicated by a cross, is
 
 TETE NOIRE. 55. Route. 225 
 
 i(\ich»^(l. Fr<»m this point flow two streams, one to the N. which 
 l;ills into the Rhone, another to the S. which Joins the Arve. 
 A number of larpe boulders afford indication of the /ilaciers 
 which once occupied the bed of this valley (Comp. Introd. XIV). 
 Near Poyaz (to the r. of which the path afterwards passes) a 
 wild and barren valley opens (Vallee de Berard), from which the 
 I'MU-Noire descends. This stream forms a *cascade, '/-i l""- hi?l>f^r 
 up. \t the end of the valley the snow-clad summit of the 
 Ihiet (p. 222) is visible to the r. , by the side of the Aujuille.^ 
 Rouyes. The path traverses this desolate and stony gorge . and 
 follows the course of the Eau-Noire. The first chalets are near 
 the ('/.I hr.) bridge over tlie Eau-Noire ; '/•> hr. beyond it is the 
 church of Valorcine f4232'), protected from avalanches by walls. 
 This village , the largest in the valley (640 inhab. ), consists of 
 a long row of chalets. Immediately beyond the church a finger- 
 post indicates the path to the I. which leads direct to the fall of the 
 Barberine mentioned below, and thence to the Hotel Barberine. 
 
 The valley now contracts, and the path descends to the stream 
 which rushes foaming over the rocks. The scenery becomes 
 grander; (25 min.) confluence of the Barberine and the Eau-Xoire; 
 the former forms a beautiful waterfall , '/2 ^^^- ^^om the *Hotel 
 Barberine, or de la Cascade, an inn by the roadside, halfway be- 
 tween Chamouny and Martigny. (5 min.) Bridge over the Eau- 
 Noire (3684'), the boundary of Savoy and the Canton of Valais ; 
 (10 min.) Hotel Royal da Chatelard (R. l'/.,, B. I'/'i fr-)- The 
 two routes to the valley of the Rhone diverge here. To the r. 
 is the well known route by the Tete Noire to Martigny. to the 
 1. the new and still more attractive path via Trinquent and 
 Sal van to Vernayaz (p. 226). 
 
 From Le Chatelard to Martigny 4 1/4 hrs. The now 
 abandoned Mapas (maurais pas), a path of dangerous character, 
 descends to the I., whilst the new route penetrates the rocks and 
 leads to the ('/.j hr. ) Tete-Noire (La Roche-Percee). (The Summit 
 of the Tete-Xoire, HoOo', lies to the S., and is a peak of the 
 chain which extends to the N. of the Col ile Balme, terminating 
 in the Croix de Fer, p. 228.) On the opposite side of the stream 
 rises the Bel-Oiseau (8612'), N. of which are the Dent de Morcles 
 (p. 201) and Grand Moveran (10,04o'). About 10 min. beyond 
 the Roche-Percee, 3 hrs. from Argentiere, the Hotel de la Tete- 
 Noire (4003') is attained. (Path to the Col de Balme, see p. 228.) 
 The road here turns suddenly to the r. into the dark and beau- 
 tiful forest of Trient, and winds roiind the Tcte-Xoire. Deep in 
 the valley below, the ronr of the Trient (which joins the Eau- 
 Noire a little farther on) is audible. When the forest is quitted, 
 the valley widens, and {^j.y hr. ) Trient (Inn) is reached, not far 
 from which the present route unites with that from Chamouny 
 over the Col de Balme (see below). 
 
 I5,T-:pEKER, Switzerland, 5th Edition. 15
 
 226 Route 56. COL DE LA FORCLAZ. 
 
 From this village the road ascends to the (35 miii.) Col de 
 Trient , better known as the Col de la Forclaz {4997') (two 
 small inns). The view from the summit is limited, but '/2 hr. 
 lower a celebrated prospect is disclosed, embracing the valley 
 of the Rhone as far as Sion , extended like a map beneath the 
 eye of the spectator, with Martigny immediately below. The 
 road to Martigny (descent 2, ascent 2^2 hrs.) at first traverses 
 pastures and forest , and then meadows planted with fruit and 
 chestnut-trees. Good walkers may reach Martigny in li/oliT- M' 
 following the steep and stony road , which cuts off the windings 
 of the new. Martigny le Bourg and Martigny see p. 203. 
 
 From Chatelard to Vernayaz , S^o hrs. (several new inns 
 on the route). The new bridle-path to the 1. ascends partly by zig- 
 zags for 3/^ hr. ; then to the r. where the path divides, in the 
 direction of Finhaut, which is visible ; next 3/^ hr. nearly at the 
 same level , commanding views of the valleys of the Eau-Noire 
 and the Trient (p. 202), the Glacier de Trient, and behind the 
 traveller the Aiguilles Rouges and Mont Blanc. From Finhaut 
 (3986') the path at first ascends slightly , then descends in easy 
 windings to the small village of Trinquent (3283'), and the 
 (II/4 hr.) gorge of Trinquent with the beautiful '^ Falls of the 
 Trieve, surrounded by pines; ('/.jhr.) Salvan (2952') (two small 
 inns). 40 min. N. of Salvan, near the hamlet Les Granges, is 
 the beautiful ^Cascade de Dailly. 
 
 The Cascade du Dailly near Salvan merits a visit. A good path leads 
 to it in 40 min. by the hamlet of Les Granges, situated on the slope facing 
 the valley of the Khone. The finest points of view are above and opposite 
 the fall respectively, and if these be visited the excursion occupies about 
 3 hrs. from Salvan. In returning to Salvan a fine view of the snow 
 mountains of the Great St. Bernard is enjoyed. Guide from Salvan 1 — 2 fr. 
 according to the duration of the excursion, not absolutely necessary. 
 
 The path finally descends by numerous windings, shaded by 
 chestnuts, to (50 min.) Vernayaz (rail, stat., p. 202). 
 
 56. From Martigny to Chamouny. Col de Balme. 
 
 Comp. Map^ p. 216. 
 
 8«|2 hrs. (comp. pp. 188, 224). Guide (12 fr.) unnecessary, if the follow- 
 ing directions be observed. Horse or mule by the Col de Balme or Tete 
 Noire to Chamouny 12 fr. :, if both are combined (which may be done by 
 a circuit of 2 hrs.) the guides are entitled to 3 fr. additional ; e. g. from 
 Martigny to Chamouny by the Tete Noire , with digression to the Col de 
 Balme, horse and guide 27 fr. For the excursion to Chamouny by the Col 
 de Balme and back by the Tete Noire (3 days) the same guide may be 
 employed (6 fr. per day , or mule with guide 12 fr. per day). Carriage- 
 road from Chamouny as far as Tour. 
 
 The road leads S. to Martigny le Bourg (p. 203), crosses 
 the Dranse, which flows from the Great 8t. Bernard, and ascends 
 gradually through vineyards, orchards, and meadows. The new 
 road , though somewhat longer , is preferable to the old , and is 
 practicable for light vehicles as far as Trient. From Martigny 
 3/4 M. to Martigny le Bourg , 1/2 M. bridge over the Dranse,
 
 COL DE BALME. 56. Route. 227 
 
 4 mill, a cross, opposite to which a tablet on a house indicates the 
 road to Chamouny to the r. , and that to the great .St. Bernard 
 to the 1. At the (10 min.) first village the excellent new road 
 diverges to the 1. and ascends the hill in windings, which the 
 rugged old path cuts ofl'; 20 min. La Fontaine, immediately 
 above the village the old and new routes coincide and lead to 
 the 1. (the steep path to the r. ascends into the woods onlyj. 
 Then 10 min. Sarmieux, 55 min. Chavans en Haut (refreshments ; 
 extensive view of the Rhone valley) ; 25 min. Col de la Forclaz 
 (see p. 226j. A road here leads to the 1. to the Glacier du Trient^ 
 the most N. arm of the ice-flelds of Mont Blanc, but not visible 
 hence, while the Chamouny road descends in a straight direi:tion. 
 Opposite the traveller, slightly to the 1., the valley is visible, 
 along the 1. side of which lies the route to the Col de Balme. 
 
 After 1/4 hr. the path to the Col de Balme diverges to the 
 1. from the road to the lower part of the village of Trient and 
 the Tcte Noire (fine view of the Glacier de Trient in descend- 
 ing), and in 10 min. crosses a bridge opposite the upper houses 
 of Trient. The meadows to the 1. are now traversed; 12 rain, 
 the Nant-Noir ('Nanf, probably from natare, is the .Savoyard 
 word for a mountain stream), which descends from the Mont des 
 Herbayeres, is crossed. The patli ascends the r. bank for about 
 200 paces, and then, turning to the 1., winds upwards by zig- 
 zags through the Forest of Maynin , considerably thinned by 
 avalanches. The path is steep and fatiguing for ^/^ hr. , but 
 afterwards becomes more level , and traverses green pastures and 
 slopes carpeted with the rhododendron ; '/i '^'^^ t^^ poor Chalets 
 des Herbayeres , or Zerbazitre (GGG3') , where milk may be pro- 
 cured. A tine retrospective view of the Col de Forclaz and the 
 Bel-Oiseau to the 1. 
 
 After a gradual and winding asrent of '/.j hr. more the path 
 attains the summit of the pass, the *Col de Balme (7231') {Hotel 
 Suisse, tolerable, charges high), the boundary between .Switzerlajid 
 (Valais) and France (.Savoy). In favourable weather the entire 
 chain of Mont Blanc is visible from summit to base, surrounded 
 by the Aiguilles de Tour, d'Argentiere , Verte , du Dru , de 
 Charmoz, du Midi, etc., with its mighty glaciers extending like 
 frozen cataracts down to the green valley of Chamouny. The 
 latter is also visible as far as the Col de Voza. On the r. are 
 the Aiguilles Rouges, and beside tliese the Brt^vent, by which the 
 valley is bounded; in the rear, the snow-clad Buet (p. 222) is 
 visible to tlie r. The retrospective view over the Forclaz embraces 
 the Valais and the gigantic mountains which separate it from the 
 Bernese Oberland, the (Jemmi with its two peaks, the Jungfrau, 
 the Finster-Aarhorn, CJrimsel, and Furca. 
 
 The *view from a second eminence to the r.. with a white 
 boundary stone, about 1/4 hr. N.W. of the inn, is still more e\-
 
 228 Route 56. COL DE BALME. 
 
 tensive. To the N. exteJids the Croix de Fer, or Aujuiile de Balwe 
 (7680'), the extremity of the precipitous cliaiii which rises above 
 the Col de Balme. Mont Blanc appears still more prand and distinct 
 than from the Col . and the entire chain of the Bernese Alps is 
 visible to the N.E.. rising like a huge white wall with countless 
 battlements. The descent may be commenced immediately from 
 rliis point. The ascent of the Aiguille itself is diflicult. and not 
 to be recommended. The cross erected on it is to the memory 
 of Escher von Berg . a native of Ziirich . who lost his life in 
 attempting the ascent, contrary to the advice of the guides. 
 
 In descending from the inn, the Arve fwhich rises on the Col 
 de Balme) lies to the r. Several small brooks are crossed , and 
 the route then passes (3/4 hr.) a heap of stones , the Homme de 
 Pierre, which serves as a landmark when the paths are hidden 
 by snow; 1/4 hr. a heap of stones, resembling a hut without a 
 roof, is passed; '/4 ^^- Tour, to the 1. of which is the beautiful 
 glacier of that name; carriage-road hence to Chamouny. On the 
 banks of the Arve lie numerous fragments of black slate, brought 
 down by the river; these are carefully collected and piled up in 
 heaps by the peasants. In spring they cover their fields with 
 these fragments, and the rays of the sun. acting on their black 
 surfaces, engender a heat which melts the snow beneath them 
 several weeks earlier than would otherwise be the case. 10 min. 
 from Tour . the road crosses the Buisme . which flows from tlie 
 (ilacier du Tour, and in 25 min. Argentiere is readied, where 
 the road joins Route 55 (p. 2Q4). The traveller should prefer to 
 spend the night here, and proceed the following day by the Chapeau 
 and Montanvert to Chamouny, as the distance from the base of the 
 Glacier des Bols to Chamouny is thus traversed but once. From 
 the Col de Balme to Chamouny 4 hrs. (ascent 41/2 hrs.) 
 
 Exciir?ion from Chamouny to Trient liy the Tete-Xoire. and l>ack l>y 
 the Col de Balme, 12 to 13 hi-s. A carriage may be taken from Chauiouny 
 to Argentiere (comp. p. 224). 
 
 The Col de Balme and Tete Xoire routes are also connected by means 
 of a footpath (2i|2 hrs.), which is especially recommended to the traveller 
 who is desirous of visiting these points in one day from the valley of the 
 Rhone. A guide may he dispensed with in fine weather. To the W. of 
 the Col, hehind the above mentioned eminence with the boundary stone, 
 a narrow, but well defined path leads nearly to the (10 min.) brink of the 
 Tete Noire Valley, and then becomes indistinct. The traveller must not 
 descend to the valley. V)ut turn to the r. (X.) and follow a slight depres- 
 sion for a few min. until a number of heaps of stone become visible. The 
 path soon re-appears and passes to the r. of these (10 min.) heaps; 10 min. 
 a group of chalets, before quite reaching which the path crosses a small 
 stream and descends rapidly to the 1. on its bank: 'fo hr. another group 
 of chalets (paths descending 1. to be avoided) : 20 min. a third group of 
 chalets. Delightful view during the descent, einbracing the entire Tete 
 Xoire valley, which presents an agreeable contrast lo the Col de Balme 
 route. The path, now well constructed and much frequented, pas.'ics several 
 more chalets and farms . and at length reaches (1 hr.) the Hotel de la 
 Tete Xoire (p. 22.5). The views are less striking if the excursion be made 
 in the reverse direction. From Martigny and back by this route 10 — 11 hrs., 
 from Chamounv and back about 12, from Chamouny to Martigny 10—11 hrs.
 
 229 
 
 57. Tour du Mont Blanc. 
 
 From Chamouny to Aosta by the Col du Bonhomme and the 
 
 Col de la Seigne. 
 
 Comj^. Mapa, pp. 210, 2SG. 
 Bridle-path, well trodden, and not ea.sily mistaken except after a 
 fall of snow. An easy walk of three days to Courniayeiir : 1st, to Contamines 
 G hrs. ; 2nd, to 3Iottet 6^(4 hrs. ; 3rd, Courmayeur {jfi\\ hrs. ; 4th, drive to 
 Aosta, 28 31. — Good walker.s mav reach Courmaveur from Chamounv in 
 •2 days, spending the night at Na"nt-Borant (p. 2»1), La Balma (p. 2:5(»), 
 <tr Chapiu (p. 231). This may also be accomplished by taking a mule. 
 Pedestrians whose time is limited may drive as far as Les Ouches. — From 
 Coui-mayeur to Aosta a good carriage-road ; one-horse carr. 18, two-horse 
 3C) fr. Guides at Chamouny. see p. 21G. Tolerable mountaineers may 
 dispense with a guide in favourable weather. The tour of Mont Blanc 
 is reckone<l as 5 days' iniirnt'v. and costs 30 fr. 
 
 The '-Tour of Mont Blanc, as this expedition is termed, is 
 frequently undertaken, especially by travellers from Chamouny to 
 Aosta, or those who desire to visit the Great St. Bernard without 
 retracing their steps. Unless the rare good fortune of an unin- 
 terrupted view from the Col du Bonhomme and Col de la Seigne 
 is enjoyed, the traveller will probably tind that the interest of the 
 excursion hardly repays the fatigue. The Alice Blanche and the 
 neighbourhood of Courmayeur, however , rank with the grandest 
 portions of the Alps. 
 
 About 33/4 M. from Chamouny the traveller quits the new- 
 road, crosses the Arve, and reaches ( '/4 M.J Lea Ouches, recognis- 
 able by its picturesquely situated church. Two paths ascend 
 hence to the 1. : the tirst (preferable) by the brook, a few paces 
 beyoiid the church, hardly to be mistaken, ascends in 2 hrs. to 
 the *PaviUon de BeUevue, a small inn situated about '/4 hr. above 
 the Col de Voza , and commanding a magnificent *view (best by 
 evening-light) of the valley of Chamouny as far as the Col de 
 Balme , Mont lUanc , the valley of the Arve, St. Gervais , Sal- 
 lanches, etc. The other path diverges from the road '/^ M. 
 farther on. and ascends in '2 hrs. to the 
 
 Col de Voza (5979') (Pavilion de Voza); but this route may 
 more easily be mistaken, and the view from the pass is less ex- 
 tensive than from the Bellevue (situated 1/4 hr. to the N.. higher 
 up, and not visible hence). 
 
 From the Col de Voza and from the Bellevue paths descend 
 in 1/4 hr. to the village of Bionnassay. 
 
 The longer route (4 hrs.) hence to Les Contamines leads to 
 the r., and descends to Bionnay (3191'); the more direct route 
 ['l^l-l hrs.) to the 1. leads by Champel. At the small chapel of 
 l>ionnassay the footpath descends to the I., crosses the brook, 
 ami soon unites with the longer bridle-path. In i hr. the village 
 of Cluimpel is reached, where the path turns to the 1. by the 
 fountain and rapidly descends the hill; '/4 hr. La ViUette, where 
 the path leads to the r. by the fountain and soon reaches the
 
 230 Route 57. LES CONTAMINES. From Chamouny 
 
 carriage-road from St. Gervais. The Montjoie Valley, whicli the 
 road traverses , watered by the Bon Nant , resembles that of 
 Chamouny, bounded on the E. by the vast grey Glacier of 
 Bionnassay, a wild waste of rock and snow. On the Hermance, 
 the N. slope of Mont Joli (8376') . which bounds the view on 
 the W., stands the picturesque village of St. Nicolas de Veroce. 
 In 1 hr. more Les Contamines is reached. 
 
 Instead of the direct route from the Pavilion or from the Col 
 to Contamines through Bionnassay, the digression by the Prarion 
 (route to St. Gervais) , about 300' higher (3865') , is recom- 
 mended by some (comp. p. 215). It commands a beautiful view 
 towards Sallanches. 
 
 Les Contamines (6857') [Col du Bonhomme , at the lower 
 end; Union, in the village, both tolerable), a large village with 
 picturesque church, lies on the E. slope of the valley. The 
 Mont Joli (see above) is frequently ascended hence in 4 — 5 hrs., 
 as well as from St. Gervais; admirable view from the summit; 
 guide 6 — 8 fr. (guide to the Col du Bonhomme 6. Col des 
 Fours 8, Chapiu 10, Mottet 12 fr.). 
 
 Beyond Contamines the road descends , commanding a view 
 of the entire valley as far as the peaks of the Bonhomme, and 
 crosses the brook near the hamlet of Pontet. The valley then 
 contracts , and , near the chapel of Notre Dame de la Gorge^ 
 terminates in a deep ravine at the foot of Mont Joli. Numerous 
 pilgrims resort to this chapel on Aug. 15th. Wrestling-matches, 
 see Introd. XV. 
 
 The road terminates here. The footpath now ascends to the 
 1., passing frequent traces of glacier-friction (see Introd. XIV), 
 and then traverses a wood; 40 min.. by a stone bridge to the 1. 
 bank of the Nant-Borant; 7 min.. Chalets of Nant-Borant (4700'), 
 41/2 hrs. distant from the Baths of St. Gervais : tolerable inn, 
 mule to the summit of the Col du Bonhomme 5 fr. The traveller 
 now crosses the wooden bridge to the 1.. and traverses the pastures 
 by a rough and stony path, crossing the brook several times. 
 Magnificent view hence of the Glacier de Trelatete, which descends 
 from the Aiguille (12,900') of that name; opposite to the specta- 
 tor rises the Bonhomme , to the r. the beautiful mountain La 
 Rosalette. Farther down, the view embraces the entire Montjoie 
 Valley as far as the Aiguilles de Varens (p. 215). A spring 
 of excellent water bubbles up by the side of the path a few 
 minutes below La Balma. 
 
 1 hr. Chalet de la Balma, or Barmaz (5600'), a small and 
 tolerable inn. In unfavourable weather a guide should be taken 
 as far as the summit of the pass (3 fr.). 
 
 The path . indicated by stake=; . now ascends precipitous and 
 wild stony slopes. Vegetation disappears, and the Alpine rose 
 alone finds a scanty subsistence. 55 min., Plaine des Dames (6543'),
 
 to Aosta. CHAPIU. 57. Route. 231 
 
 where a conical heap of stones is said to mark the spot where a 
 laily once perished in a snow-storm. Tlie gnides perpetuate the 
 tradition by adding fresh stones to the pile, and invite the 
 traveller to follow their example. The path now ascends in 
 windings on the slope to the r., and in 40 min. reaches a saddle, 
 sometimes termed the Col du Bonhomme, but not the real summit 
 of the pass. Two rocks, the Pic du Bonhomme (iO.138') and the Pic 
 de la Bonnefemme ('ddOS' ). here tower aloft, like two ruined castles. 
 
 Tlie desolate and harren valley into which tl»e traveller looks down 
 on the opposite side of this saddle is that of the Gilte. A path, at first 111- 
 dctined , descends into this hasin , passes the lonely Chalet de la Source, 
 turns to the r. and crosses the brook , and finally reaches the chalet of 
 La Gilte in 2 hrs. ; thence to Beaufort (p. 211) 3 hrs. This route is un- 
 interesting, but convenient for travellers proceeding to the Tarentaise. 
 Guide not absolutely necessary. 
 
 Beyond this first saddle the traveller follows the slope of the 
 mountain to the 1., the rocky path being indicated by stakes, 
 and in '^1^ hr. more attains the ridge of the Col du Bonhomme 
 (8091'), which commands a magnificent panorama of the moun- 
 tains of the Tarentaise (p. '234). 
 
 The traveller may now reach the valley by one of the 
 following routes: either to the 1.. continuing to ascend by the 
 posts to the (1/2 hr.) Col des Fours (8894'), then descending 
 to (2 hrs.) Mottet (see below). This pass is rarely entirely free 
 from snow. On the N. side especially, where the posts cease, 
 a considerable quantity of fresh snow frequently conceals the 
 path as early as the beginning or middle of September, in which 
 case a guide is desirable. The path descends at first across 
 stony slopes, passes (l'/4 hr.) a group of chalets, and reaches 
 the ('/4 hr.) Hameau du Glacier at the bottom of the valley. 
 The path here descends by the chapel . crosses the bridge, and 
 in 20 min. more reaches the inns of Mottet. 
 
 Or the traveller may descend from the Col du Bonhomme 
 in a straight direction, partly over loose stones, to (I3/4 hr.) 
 
 Chapiu (4973'), properly Les Chapieux, an Alpine village 
 t Hotel du Soleil; Le Pavilion), i'/.j hr. lower down the valley 
 than Mottet. 
 
 From Chapiu to Pre St. I) i d i c r over the Little St. Bernard 
 (11 hrs.; preferable to the route over the Col de la Seigne in doubtful 
 weather) ; the very stony path as far as Bourg St. Maurice (3 hrs.) after- 
 wards improves, and commands a Iteautiful view of the upper Isere valley 
 (Tarentaise) the whole way, until at length it unites with the high-road. 
 From Bi»ir<j St. Maurice to Pre St. Didier, see p. 234. 
 
 Mottet ((U87') possesses two small inns {Repos des Voyayeurs, 
 and Ancien Hotel, adjacent) which afford tolerable accommodation. 
 A well trodden, and in many places carefully constructed bridle- 
 path ascends hence to the (2 hrs.) *Col de la Seigne (8307'). 
 The summit of the pass, where a cross indicates the frontier of 
 France and Italy , commands an extensive and imposing survey 
 of the Allee Blanche , a lofty valley several miles in length,
 
 232 Route 57. COURMAYEUR. From Chamouny 
 
 bounder] on the N. by the precipices of the Mont Blanc chain, 
 upwards of 10,000' in height, and on the S. by the Cramont, 
 or Gramont (8976'). De Saussure not inaptly compares Mont 
 Blanc, as seen from the Col de la Seigne , to an artichoke sur- 
 rounded by its leaves. The eminent German geographer Ritter 
 (d. 1859) asserts that the view from the Col surpasses any other 
 in the entire Alpine chain, and that a parallel can only be found 
 among the Himalayas. The view from the Gramont is however 
 superior (p. 233). 
 
 On the descent a chalet is soon reached , where Alpine fare 
 may be procured; Y2 ^^- farther a group of chalets (milk). The 
 path traverses fields of snow (which, however, disappear in warm 
 summers) , rocky debris , and afterwards flowery pastures, and 
 passes the (I3/4 hr.) Lac de Combal (6341'). At the (E.) lower 
 end of the lake the traveller crosses to the 1. bank of the Doire. 
 which is formed by the discharge of glaciers , and for l/o hr. 
 skirts the base of the lofty moraine of the Glacier de Mkige. 
 The brook is then recrossed. After 1 hr. more the beautiful 
 Glacier de Brenva is reached , which with its huge moraine 
 occupies the entire breadth of the valley, compelling the path 
 to follow the abrupt slopes of the Cramont. Opposite the glacier, 
 and immediately above the path , rises the white Chapelle du 
 Glacier^ most picturesquely situated, and occupied by a hermit. 
 At the hamlet of Entreres (4216'J the Doire is joined by a stream 
 descending from the Ferret Valley, and below this point assumes 
 the name of Dora Baltea. Opposite the small Baths of La Saxe 
 (3/4 hr.) the brook is again crossed, and in 25 min. more the 
 traveller reaches 
 
 Courmayeur (3986') f Hotel Royal, R. 2, B. fija, D. 3«i,:, L. ij-,, 
 A. 1 fr. :, A n g e 1 o , lU n i n , and ^'M ontBlanc, similar charges, the latter 
 'jj M. from the village, on the way to the Col de la Seigne. Diligence in 
 summer to Aosta in S^js hrs., fare 5 fr., coupe 6 fr. One-horse carriage 18, 
 two -horse 30 fr. , return vehicles generally two -thirds of the full fare. 
 A society of guides has recently lieen constituted at Courmayeur. 
 Charges ," regulations , etc. similar to those of the guides of Chamouny), 
 a considerable village at the upper extremity of the valley of 
 Aosta, with baths much frequented in summer. Those who do 
 not intend to scale the Mont de Saxe or the Cramont (see below) 
 from Courmayeur, should not fail to ascend the Ferret Valley 
 (see below) for 1 M. in order to obtain a view of Mont Blanc 
 (not visible from Courmayeur) in all its magnificence. In the 
 Allee Blanche the spectator is too near to enjoy an effective view 
 of the difl'erent groups. 
 
 From the Mont de Saxe (8300') (ascent 2»i2— 3 hrs. ; guide 6 fr. , un- 
 necessary) the view embraces the entire E. side of Mont Blanc with its 
 numerous glaciers, from the Col de la Seigne to the Col de Ferret, the Col 
 du Geant and the Jorasses being in the immediate vicinity. Those who 
 come from Aosta need not ascend to the highest point , as a view of the 
 Aosta Valley only is thus obtained: the chain of Jlont Blanc is seen equally 
 well from the last chalets (milk).
 
 to Aosta COL DE FERRET. 57. Route. 233 
 
 The Cramont (9028'), the finest point of view in the neighbourhood 
 of Courmayeur, is ascended in 4 hrs., guide (6 fr.) advisable. It commands 
 an admirable survey of tlie Allee Blanche and the remarkable rocky 
 pinnacles by which Jlont Blanc is surrounded. 
 
 From Courmayeur to Chamouny by the Col du Ge'ant 
 (comp. p. 223) in 14 hrs., guide 45, porter 25 fr. ; to the suminit and l)aVk 
 12, porter 8, in two days 15, porter lU fr. — The Pavilion du Fruitier 
 (7191) ft.), situated on tlie route to the Col du Geant, commanding a lino 
 view of Mont Blanc, and the Alps of the Tarentaise towards the S. , is a 
 pleasant object for an afternoon's excursion. Ascent 2'|2 hrs., guide un- 
 necessary, 6 fr. 
 
 From Courmayeur to 3Iartigny. Those who wish to avoid the 
 digre.ssion by Aosta and the Great St. Bernard on their return-jfuirney, 
 may prefer the following route : through the narrow Valley of Ferret (with 
 numerous glaciers), bounded on the AV. l»y tlie onoruious masses of the 
 Geant (13,133'), the Jorasses (13,78G'), and the extensive Glar,er of Triolet; 
 then across the Col de Ferret (8183'), the frontier of Italv and Switzer- 
 land (.1/0/// Dolfut, 13.572'. to the X."\V. of the C(d , has since ISGO formed 
 the boundary of Franif. Italy, and Switzerland), which commands a mo.-;t 
 striking view, especially when reached ir<n\\ the direction of Martigny ; 
 thence by Orsieres (p. 236) , where the valley of Ferret de.scends to the 
 valley of Entremont, and the Great St. Bernard route; Martigny is thus 
 reached in 14 hrs. : 6 hrs. Col dc Ferret, 5 hrs. Orsieres, 3 hrs. Martigny. 
 A guide should be taken as far as the Chalets de Ferret (6 fr. , to Orsieres 
 12 fr.), and provisions carrie<l, as milk and cheese only are to be obtained 
 until Orsieres is reached. 
 
 Beyond La Saore (see abf)ve) a well-beaten path leads into the valley 
 of Ferret, crosses the brook which tlows through it, and remains on the 
 V. bank as far as the Chalets of Pre Sec, where it recrosses to the 1. 
 bank. (The path along the r. bank is so<in lost among the huge rocky 
 fragments of a moraine.) After 3 hrs. walk the upi>er extremity of the 
 valley is reached, facing a series of steep heights which are connected on 
 the 1. with the last snow-peaks of the Jlont Blanc chain. Near the last 
 of these the path crosses the ridge. By keeping to the 1. a mistake can 
 hardly be made, but towards the r. it is possible. The traveller must be 
 especially cautious to avoid the two following paths, which are well trodden 
 and likely to mislead. F'rom the highest chalet in the valley (Saljoan), 
 a chalet of considerable size is visible exactly in frtmt, apparently half- 
 way up the mountain; past this runs a well-beaten path, which leads to 
 the Ho.spice of St. Bernard. The other path, which diverges farther on, 
 leads to the same destination. 
 
 From the Col de Ferret (steep ascent of 1',.. hr. from Saljoan) the 
 path skirts the moraine of the Glacier du Mont Dolent, which descends to 
 the ^^. portion of the valley of Ferret, and leads to the Chalets ,li- 
 Ferret, whence the path to Orsikres (4 hrs., see p. 23G) cannot be 
 mistaken. During the ascent in the S. valley of Ferret, the retrospective 
 view of the S.E. side of the chain of Mont Blanc as far as the Col de la 
 Seigne is very line. From the summit of the Col de Ferret, the view ex- 
 tends to Martigny and the W. portion of the Bernese Alps, the Diablerets. 
 the Oldenhorn, and the Sanetsch. 
 
 The direct route from Courmayeur to Aosta is the most beau- 
 tiful and interesting. The vegetation, which becomes more luxu- 
 riant as the road descends, the picturesque waterfalls, the magnifi- 
 cent view of Mont Blanc and other snow-peaks to the W., the S., 
 and afterwards to the N., all combine to render an excursion 
 throtigli the Valley of Aosta highly attractive even to those wlio 
 have already had experience of the finest scenery of Switzer- 
 land. Cretinism appears nowhere in a more repulsive form than 
 ill this valley. This afflicting malady is by some ascribed to the
 
 234 Route 57. PRE ST. DIDIEK. 
 
 nature of the water, but there is little doubt that the squalid 
 habits of the natives contribute materially to its intensity. At 
 Martigny, where the inhabitants have gradually become more pros- 
 perous , and have adopted a more healthful mode of life , the 
 disease is on the decrease, whilst in the Aosta valley the reverse 
 is the case , the proportion of cretins being now 2 per cent of 
 the whole population. No certain light, however, has as yet been 
 thrown upon this loathsome, and at the same time capricious dis- 
 ease. No good inns between Pre St. Didier and Aosta. 
 
 Passing (21/4 M.) Palesieux, the road crosses to the r. bank of 
 the Doire to (3/4 M.) Pre St. Didier (Rosa; Posta), a village with 
 baths , where the road to the Little St. Bernard diverges to the 
 S.W. Near the hot springs (74 M. lower down) the stream 
 forces its way between perpendicular rocks towards the Dora valley. 
 
 From Pre St. Didier to Bourg St. Maurice, 8 hrs. ; this route 
 is preferred by many to that over the Col de la Seigne (p. 231), especially 
 in doubtful weather. The carriage-road is now nearly completed, and the 
 pass will probably ere long be traversed by a diligence. It traverses the 
 valley of the Tfndlle , passing through La TJtville (accommodation, if ne- 
 cessary, at Brigadier Morels), and Serran, near the Cantirie des Eai/.r Rouges 
 (3ji hr. below the summit of the pass . Alpine fare) , and ascends to the 
 ridge of the Little St. Bernard (7240' :, the summit is indicated by a granite 
 pillar), whence the view of the chain of Mont Blunc is very grand. Since 
 1860 this pass has formed the boundary between France and Italy. On the 
 S. side of the pass, 5 hrs. from Pre St. Didier. 3 hrs. from Bourg St. Mau- 
 rice, is a hospice similar to that on Great St. Bernard (p. 237), and adjoining 
 it an inn. 
 
 From this point the descent is long and gradual, commanding a beautiful 
 view of the upper valley of the Isere (La Tareniaise) and the mountains 
 of Savoy the whole way ; the road then passes through St. Germain (be- 
 coming steeper) and Seez , and reaches Bourg St. Maurice (; Hotel des 
 Voyageurs) , a little town on the Isere , whence a diligence runs daily in 
 4ij2 hrs. to Moutier (en Tarentaise) , a small town with salt-works, and 
 thence through Albertville (high-road from this to Geneva by Annecy, see 
 p. 211) in about 6 hrs. to Chamousset (p. 211), stat. on the railway from 
 Geneva to Mont Cenis by Chambery ; from Chamousset to Chambe'ry (p. 210) 
 in 1 lir., to Geneva in 4 to 43J4 hrs., see R. 52. 
 
 From Bourg St. Maurice to Chapiu, see p. 231. 
 
 The high-road from Pre St. Didier passes Morgex (two water- 
 falls beyond the village) , and reaches La Salle (with ruined 
 castle), where it descends into the valley and crosses the stream. 
 It then ascends the steep r. bank of the Doire , which dashes 
 over the rocks far below. Opposite is Ainse. picturesquely situated 
 on a rocky eminence and overtopped by an old tOAver. Liverogne, 
 a small and dirty village. Arvier (Cantine des Voyageurs) pro- 
 duces a good wine. The road then traverses a plantation of 
 walnut-trees, and crosses to the 1. bank near Vilteneuve, the most 
 beautiful point in the valley. On a lofty rock above the village 
 stands the ruined Castle of Argent. The castle of St. Pierre is 
 another picturesque feature in the landscape; the same can 
 hardly be said of the castles of La Sarra and Aimaville, situated 
 on the r. bank of the Doire. 
 
 Aosta (p. 240) is 28 M. distant from Courmayeur.
 
 235 
 
 58. From Martigny to Aosta. Great St. Bernard. 
 
 171;.; h,-s. : iVnm Mail i-iiy to the Ildsi.ic; 1 li .., his., tliciut- In Ansta 6 hrs. 
 (from Aosta to tlie Hospice 8 lirs., from tlie Hospice to 3Iartigny 9>l-2 hrs.); 
 carriage-road as far a.s the Cantine de Proz (p. 237j , thence to St. Remy 
 (4 hrs.) bridle-path ; carria?;c-road again to Aosta. Guide unnecessary. As 
 far as (12 M.) Orsieres the ascent is slight, so that this long journey 
 may conveniently be accomplished in one day by taking a carriage as far 
 as Orsieres (one-horse carr. 8 — 10 fr.), walking thence to St. Reray , and 
 again driving from St. Remy to Aosta. A post-conveyance for 3 persons 
 leaves Martigny every morning for Liddes, returning in the afternoon ; fare 
 7 fr. ascending, 4 fr. descending; fi.xed charges, and better carriages than 
 the usual chars-a-bancs. Carriafje (for 1 to 3 pers.) from Jlartigny to the 
 Cantine de Proz, T'js M. from the Hospice, with a mule attached which 
 may be ridden thence to the Hospice , 30 fr. One-horse carr. from Mar- 
 tigny to Liddes 15 fr. ; mule from Liddes to St. Remy over the St. Bernard 
 10 fr. ; one-horse carr. from St. Remy to Aosta, 1 pers. 10, 2 pers. 12, 
 3 pers. 15 fr. 
 
 The Great St. Bernard is, of all the Alpine passes, the least 
 interesting , with the e.\ceptif)n of its two extremities towards Aosta and 
 Martigny. Those who have to choose between the Simplon , St. Gotthard, 
 Spliigen, Bernardino, and St. Bernard , should not be misled by the repu- 
 tation of the latter. If the ti-aveller has followed the road from .\osta to 
 Orsieres he should, for variety, take the footpath which diverges to the W. 
 of the road, passing near the Lac de Chainpey on the W. of Mont Catogne, 
 and rejoining the road at Vallette. He may also leave the road at Sem- 
 brancher , ascend 3font C/iemin (5040') (beautiful view of Martigny and 
 the valley of the Rhone , extending to Geneva), and descend to Martigny, 
 passing through a forest of l)eeches. These two routes are longer, but 
 more interesting than the main road. 
 
 Martigny (1387'"), see p. 203. Beyond (2/4 M.) MartUjny le 
 Boury (p. 203) the road crosses the (^2 ^•) J^ranse; a few 
 minutes' walk farther the road to Chamouny diverges to the r. 
 (R. 56). The St. Bernard road winds through a narrow valley, 
 watered by the Draiise, passes through Brocard and Vallette. and 
 reaches (3^/4 M.) Bovernier. The Dranse forces its way through 
 a narrow gorge ; enormous blocks impede its course, especially 
 near the (l'/2 M.) Gallerie Monaye (2362'), a tunnel 200' long, 
 hewn out of the solid rock. In 1818 a great fall of rocks was 
 occasioned by the bursting of a lake in the Val de Bayne. 
 Comp. p. 242. 
 
 Detached blocks of the Glacier de Gelroz had intercepted the course 
 of the E. branch of the Dranse, which traverses the Val de Bagne. A lake 
 was thus formed, 2900' long, 700' wide, and 190' deep ; the bank burst, and 
 the water rushed into the valley, which it entirely devastated. Bovernier 
 owed its safety to a projecting rock. In 1595 a similar catastrophe occurred. 
 Beautiful excursion to 'the Val de Bagnc (R. 59). 
 
 The two Streams which form the Dranse unite at (IV2 ^■) 
 Serabrancher (2605') [Inn at the Juye's; mules and guides to 
 the Pierre-a-Voir (p. 204) 5 fr.], one descending from the Val 
 de Bayne J the other from the Val d'Eniremont. On a hill are 
 the ruins of a castle, said once to have accommodated the emperor 
 Sigismund with a retinue of 800 nobles, so vast were its dimen- 
 sions at that period. To the S.W. of Sembrancher rises Mont 
 Catogne (6510').
 
 236 Route 68. ORSlfiRES. From Martigny 
 
 (41/-2 M.) Orsieres (^loG'} (*H6tel des Alpes , moderate), at 
 the junction of the valleys of Ferret and Entremont (p. 233), 
 possesses a remarkable and very ancient tower like that of 
 St. Pierre (see below). The channel of the Dranse is so deep 
 that the stream is rarely visible. The view obtained beyond the 
 village is the most picturesque on this route ; the background is 
 formed by the snowy pyramid of Mont Velan (p. 237). Large 
 cultivated fields extend over the undulating country which slopes 
 towards the Dranse ; the landscape becomes grander when the 
 forest of St. Pierre is reached. 
 
 (b^/i M.) Liddes (4588') {Hotel d'Angleterre , Union, rustic 
 inns with hotel prices) is a considerable village. One-horse 
 carriage to Martigny 10, mule to the Hospice 5 fr. The new 
 road to St. Pierre winds along the slope of the mountain; the 
 old road is shorter for pedestrians. The wooden frames, which 
 are observed here, are used for drying the corn. 
 
 (33/4 M.) St. Pierre Mont Joux (5334') (Cheval Blanc; Croix, 
 both very unpretending; Au Dejeuner de Napoleon, tolerable), 
 a dirty village , possesses an ancient and interesting church, 
 dating from 1010. In the wall near the tower is a Roman 
 milestone. 
 
 An agreeable excursion may be made from St. Pierre to the V a 1 s o r e y 
 Valley (7iJ2 M. in length), through which a good path leads on the r. 
 bank of the Dranse de Valsorey. A short distance above its inllux into 
 the Val d'Entremont the river forms a picturesque waterfall. In 2 hrs. the 
 traveller reaches the Chalets de Valsorey, in a grand situation. The back- 
 ground is formed by the Glacier de Valsorey , and others uniting with it, 
 (1.) the Sonadon, descending from the Grand-Combin, and (r.) the Tzeiidet. 
 Beautiful view of the dazzling snows of Mont Velan and the serrated rocks 
 of the Aiguilles de Valsorey. — The night is passed at the chalet by those 
 who are about to cross the Col de la Maison Blanche (11,212'), or the Col 
 de Sonadon to the Val de Bagne (R. 59) , or the Aiguilles de Valsoi-ey to 
 the Val Ollomont (p. 242), or by those who propose to ascend the Grand- 
 Combin (see below). 
 
 Beyond St. Pierre a deep gorge is crossed ; beautiful water- 
 fall to the 1. above the bridge. The celebrated passage of the 
 Alps by Napoleon was commenced May 16th, 1800, and occupied 
 four days. The St. Bernard had been reported by Marescot, chief 
 of the engineers, as 'barely passable' for artillery. 'It is pos- 
 sible: let us start then,' was the energetic reply of Napoleon. 
 The part which most severely tried the troops was from St. Pierre 
 to the summit. The artillery carriages were taken to pieces and 
 packed on mules , the ammunition was also thus transported, 
 whilst the guns themselves, placed on the trunks of trees hollowed 
 out, were dragged up by main force , the soldiers receiving 
 1200 fr. for each cannon. At the Hospice each soldier partook 
 of the hospitality of the brethren. 
 
 The new road, hewn in the solid rock, avoids the worst parts 
 of the old. It traverses the forest of St. Pierre and the Dep.lt 
 de Charreire; the scenery is picturesque, and several waterfalls 
 are passed.
 
 to Aosta. CANTINE DE PROZ. 58. Route. 237 
 
 The (8^4 M.) Cantine de Proz (iMMQ'). ,•, -solitary inn 
 (moderate), is situated at the connHeiicenK'nt of the Plan de Proz 
 (5866'), the highest portion of the valley. A one-horse carr. 
 to Liddes or Martigny , and a nuile to the Hospice or St. Remy 
 may be obtained here. The carriage-road now terminates; some 
 glaciers, especially the Glacier de Menoiive , descend to the 1. 
 as far as the lofty brink of the valley. 
 
 Tlic Mont Velan (12,352'), u white pyramid rising in tlic backprrtund, 
 to the E. of Great St. Bernard, commands a magnificent view, especially 
 of Mont Blanc and 3Iiinte Rosa. It is best ascended from the Cantine 
 de Proz (in 6 hrs.): two guides necessary, each 20 fr. : Ban. and Emman. 
 Bailey at St. Pierre, and Seraphin Dorsal., son of the landl<»rd of tlie 
 Cantine de Proz. are recommended. — The Grand Combin , or Graffeneire 
 (14,163'), the N.E. neighbour of Mont Velan, was ascended in 1861 for the 
 first time. 
 
 The bridle-path crosses the pastures of the Plan de Proz 
 (20 min.), and ascends the wild Defili de Marengo (6312'). 
 After 11/4 hr. two stone huts are reached; one of them is a place 
 of refuge for cattle, the other is the old Morgue, or receptacle for 
 the bodies of travellers who had perished in tlie snow. The path 
 next crosses the Dranse by the bridge of Nudri (7336'), skirts 
 the W. slope of the mountain, traverses the Vallee des Morts. and 
 (1 1/4 hr.) reaches the Hospice. The iron cross on the way- 
 side , 20 min. from the Hospice . was erected to the memory of 
 Ptre Vranroia Cart, who perislied at this spot in November 1845. 
 
 The Hospice of St. Bernard (8996'), a monastery situated 
 at the summit of the pass, consists of two large buildings. One 
 of these contains numerous apartments with wooden partitions. 
 for the reception of travellers ; the other and smaller (Hotel de 
 St. Louh) is a refuge, in case of lire, and serves also as a granary 
 and lodging for poor travellers. On arriving, strangers are re- 
 ceived and welcomed by one of the brethren, who conducts them 
 to a room and provides refreshments: should they arrive shortly 
 before dinner or supper (at 12 and 6). a place is assigned them 
 at the brethren's table, who are for the most part intelligent and 
 well-educated men, and afford every information in their power. 
 Frencli only is spoken. The table is simply but amply furnished ; 
 Fridays and Saturdays are fast-days. Travellers are accommodated 
 gratuitously , but few will deposit in the alms-box less than 
 similar accommodation would cost at an hotel. Liberality should, 
 however, be shown, in consideration of the difficulty and expense 
 attending the transport of provisions, fuel, etc., to such a distance. 
 
 Various accounts are given of (he (u-igin of the name of St. Bernard 
 as applied to this pass; the most generally received is that Bernard de 
 Slenthon. a jtious ecclesiastic who was canonised after his death, founded 
 the convent in 962. The brotherhood consists of from 10 to 15 Augustine 
 monks and 7 attendants (maroiiiers) ., whose office it is to receive and ac- 
 commodate strangers gratuitously, and to render assistance to travellers 
 in danger during the snowy season, which here lasts nearly nine nnuiths. 
 In this work of benevolence the inferior creation is taught to lend its 
 assistance. The breed of dogs employed at the Hospice "is universally
 
 238 Route 58. GREAT ST. BERNARD. From Martigny 
 
 known and admired ; their keen sense of smell enables them to track and 
 discover travellers exposed to peril by heavy falls of snow , numbers of 
 whom have been rescued by these noble and sagacious animals. The stock 
 is believed to have come originally from the Spanish Pyrenees. The number 
 of dogs is now exceedingly limited. 
 
 The Monastery of St. Bernard comprises a society of about 40 mem- 
 bers. Some of the brethren minister in the Hospice on the Simplon 
 (p. 259) ; others perform ecclesiastical functions. The sick and aged have 
 an asylum at Martigny. St. Bernard is the highest winter habitation in the 
 Alps. Humboldt, in his 'Kosmos' mentions that the mean temperature at 
 the Hospice of St. Bernard (45° N. latitude) is 30° Fahr. (in winter 15°, 
 spring 25°, summer 48°, autumn 32°) , and that such a low temperature 
 would only l)e found on the sea-level at a latitude of 75" (the S. Cape of 
 Spitzbergen). Like the St. Gotthard (p. 80), the St. Bernard is not a single 
 mountain, but a group. 
 
 Mention has already been made (p. 236) of Napoleon's famous passage. 
 It is an historical fact that the Romans made use of this route, B. C. 100. 
 From the time of the foundation of the Augusta Praetoria Salassorum 
 (Aosta, B. C. 26) it was much frequented. Caecina (A. D. 69) crossed it 
 with his legions and the Gallic and German auxiliaries , when marching 
 against Otho, in order to bring speedy succour to the fi)rtitied towns of 
 Cisalpine Gauk Milan, Xovare., etc., which had already declared in favour 
 of Vitellius. Conslautine caused the road to be improved in 339. The 
 Lombards made the passage about 547; an uncle of Charlemagne marched 
 an army of 30,000 men by this route into Italy in 773 , and , according to 
 some, gave his name to the pass ; a part f)f the army of Frederick Barbarossa 
 also crossed in 1166, under the command of Bertiiold of Zahringen. 
 
 The monastery has undergone various vicissitudes , but the 
 beneflcence of its design was widely recognised by extensive 
 grants of lands and property from various parts of Christendom. 
 At one period it possessed no less than 80 benefices , but its 
 resources subsequently became greatly impoverished, and at the 
 present time it is said only to possess a small portion of 
 landed property in the A'^alais and in the Canton de Vaud. The 
 30 — 40,000 fr. required for its annual support are derived from 
 subsidies from the Frencli and Italian governments, as well as 
 from annual collections made in Switzerland; the gifts of tra- 
 vellers, it must be said with regret, form a very insigniflcant 
 portion of the sum. Of late years 16 — 20,000 travellers have 
 been annually accommodated, but it is painfully evident front 
 the gross sums collected that the vast majority of these contribute 
 little or nothing. The expenses of the establishment are not only 
 heavy, but augmenting; provisions are generally brought from 
 Aosta ; during July, August, and September, about 20 horses are 
 daily employed in the traJisport of. fuel from the valley of t'erret 
 (p. 233), 12 M. distant. 
 
 The present massive edifice dates from the middle of the 
 16th cent. , the church from 1680. The large rooms are heated 
 during the whole year; on the ground floor are the stables and 
 magazines, above which are the kitchen, refectory, and sleeping 
 apartments for the poor ; in the upper story the cells of the 
 monks , and 70 to 80 beds for travellers. The walls of the re- 
 fectory are hung with engravings and pictures, the gifts of grateful
 
 to Aosta. GREAT ST. BERNARD. 58. Route. 239 
 
 travellers. The small room adjoining contains a collection of 
 ancient and modern medals, portraits, relics found in the environs, 
 and fragments of votive brass tablets offered to Jupiter Penninus 
 after escape from danger. The original name of the mountain is 
 supposed to have been Mons Jovis Pennini, and the foundations 
 of a temple erected to that deity are still pointed out. Another 
 room in the upper story contains philosophical instruments and 
 a small natural history collection. The visitors' books contain 
 many well known and celebrated names. The monument erected 
 by Napoleon I. to General Desaix ('■a Desaix , mort a la hataille 
 de Marenyo' ) is on the 1. side of the chapel ; the bas-relief, 
 representing the death of Desaix, is by Moitte (180()). 
 
 A short distance from the hospice is situated the Morgue, or 
 charnel-house , a depository for the bodies of persons who have 
 perished in the snow. The extreme cold retards decomposition 
 so remarkably that the features of the deceased are sometimes 
 recognisable a year after death. 
 
 The traveller will hardly quit the Hospice without a feeling 
 of veneration and compassion for this devoted fraternity. They 
 generally commence their career at the age of 18 or 19 ; at o3 or 
 34 the severity of the climate has undermined their constitutions, 
 and they are compelled to descend with broken health to the 
 milder climate of Martigny or some other dependency. The 
 thoughtless traveller, in the pleasure and novelty of the scene, is 
 too apt to forget the dreariness of the wintry portion of the 
 year, when all the wayfarers are poor, when the cold is intense, 
 the snows of great depth , and the dangers from storms or 
 'tourmentes' frequent and imminent. It is at this period that 
 the privations of these heroic men are most severe , and their 
 services to their fellow-creatures most invaluable; all honour to 
 their self-denial and devotion ! 
 
 Instead of returning to Martigny l>y the same route, the traveller may 
 proceed to the Col de Fenfire (88.05'), and throutih the X. (Swiss) portion 
 of the valley of Ferret (p. 233), which runs parallel to that of Entremont, 
 and is little longer; guide necessary. The Chenaletta and the Mont Mort 
 (9403'), both of which may be ascended from the Hospice (with guide) in 
 1—2 hrs., art'ord a magnificent view of Mont lilanc and its glaciers. 
 
 The path which descends on the S. side passes to the W. 
 of the lake , between it and the Plan de Jupiter , on which are 
 traces of the foundation of the temple previously mentioned. At 
 the end of the lake (about 500' long) stands the frontier pillar 
 between Switzerland and Italy. The path next traverses La 
 Vacherie, a green pasture , where the cattle of the Hospice graze, 
 with some chalets, and the Cnntine, the abode of the 'cantonnier' 
 or road-mender. To the W., above the Col de Femtre (see above) 
 rises the Pain de Sucre (OoOf)') [not to be confounded with 
 Mont Velan (p. 237), also called Pain de Sucre by the \audois]. 
 To the 1. of the road is a stone in memory of M. Martinet of Aosta,
 
 240 Route 5f^. ST. REMY. 
 
 a mcmbrr of the Italian rhauiher of deputies, who perished here 
 in 1858. The road follows the E. ^^lope, and descends crradually 
 to St. Reniy. 
 
 In ascending from S t. R e m y to t h e H o s p i c e , the pedestrian should 
 keep to the r. on the slope of the mountain; at the (i^lt hr.) Cantinc 
 mentioned above, the direction of the ridge of the mountain miist be pursued. 
 The culminating point is indicated by a pole on a rock, soon after passing 
 which the lake and the mcuiastery ai-e seen. The ascent occupies about 
 2'ji hrs., guide U',-- fi'O superfluous. 
 
 (1 hr.) St. Remy, the flrst Italian village, entirely fills the 
 nan-ow gorge. The custom-house is the flrst building on the r. 
 (The first house on the 1. is a tolei-able inn, H 6 t e 1 d e s A 1 p e s P e n n i n e s. 
 K. 2, B. liJ2 fr. ; one-horse carr. to Aosta (3 hrs. drive) 1 pers. 10, 2 pers. 
 12, 3 pers. 15 fr. ; mule to the Hospice 3, to Liddes 10 fr. ; guide to the 
 Hospice 1>|2 fr.) 
 
 From St. Remy to Courmayeur. The path, which crosses the 
 brook beyond the village leads by the W. side of the valley over the Col 
 de Serena (7389') in 9—10 hrs. in' Cottnnayeur fp. 232), to which it is the 
 sliortest route from the St. Bernard, but somewhat uninteresting. 
 
 The descent from St. Remy is by a good carriage-road. The 
 general cultivation of the two sides of the valley begins at (21/4 M. ) 
 St. Oyen, and becomes richer at ( 1 M.) Etroubles. The road here 
 «-rosses the Buttier , and soon enters a wide valley , watered by 
 the Buttier. which flows far below. The solitary inn of La Cluse 
 (3 M.) affords poor accommodation; I1/.2 M. farther, near two 
 houses, is an excellent spring. The defile (2'/4 M.) of Gignod 
 ( 2890') was formerly defended by a square tower, erected by the 
 Romans, and still standing. The scenery now becomes more pleas- 
 ing, the villages more picturesque, and the southern character of 
 the Italian side of the Alps more perceptible. To the 1. the Val 
 PelUna opens, through which a path leads to the Val d'Herens over 
 the Col de Colon (a glacier-pass, see p. 246). The eye rests on 
 a scene rich in corn, wine, and oil; the murmuring of brooks Is 
 heard in every direction, and at every step white summits hitherto 
 unseen are revealed. Beyond (I7.2 M.) Signaye tlie extensive 
 vineyards of (21/4 M.) Aosta begin ; to the 1. is seen Monte Rosa, 
 and to the r. Mont Blanc. This prospect, combined with the 
 view of the handsome town of Aosta and Its fertile valley, is an 
 appropriate termination to the excursion. 
 
 Aosta (1962') (-Hotel du Montblanc. at the upper end of the 
 town, on the road to Courmaveur, 'lo M. from the post-office, R. 2 fr. and 
 upwards, B. liji;, D. 3i|2, A'. 1. fr. ; 'Couronne in the Place Charles 
 Albert, next door to the post-office, conveniently situated for diligence 
 travellers, less expensive. Carriages may be hired at both these hotels. 
 Opposite the latter is a reading-room, provided with English and rither 
 newspapers. Travellers admitted grati.s. — One-horse carr. to Chatillon 
 12—15, two-horse 25 fr., to Courmayeur 18 and 30 fr. — Xo supplementary 
 carriages are provided for diligence passengers as in Germany and Switzerland), 
 he Aufjusta Praetoria Salassorum of the Romans, capital of the 
 Italian province of the same name, with 7760 inhab.. Is beauti- 
 fully situated at the confluence of the Buttier and the Doire 
 (p. 232). The Emperor Augustus gave his name to it, and
 
 AOSTA. M. Route. 241 
 
 parrisoTiccl it with 3000 inoii of tlio i)ia'tnriaii cohorts. Tlie 
 Town Walls , llankecl with strong towers , a double Gdteiray 
 somewhat resembling the Porta Nigra of Treves , a magnificent 
 Triumphal Arch, constructed of huge blocks of hewn stone, and 
 ornamented with ten Corinthian half-columns, the arch of a 
 Roman bridge , and the ruins of a Busilica arc the most inter- 
 esting antiquities. The walls are reached in a few min. by one 
 of the streets leading N. from tlie Place Charles Albert. The 
 other relics may be inspected in about 1/2 ^^- A'he traveller 
 follows the principal street towards the E. from the Place and 
 soon reaches the Roman Gate, and a few n.in. farther the Trium- 
 phal Arch. In a straight direction, 200 paces beyond the latter, 
 the narrow Rue du Pont Remain crosses a brook by means of 
 a Roman Bridge , the massive construction of which is seen by 
 descending a few yds. to the 1. The Place may now be re- 
 gained in Y4 hr. — The modern Cathedral possesses a singular 
 portal, with some frescoes, and the Lord's Supper in terracotta, 
 gaudily painted. Near the church of St. Ours are cloisters with 
 interesting early-Romanesque marble columns. Modern Town Hall 
 in the Place Charles Albert, or market-place. A French patois 
 is spoken in the entire valley from Courmayeur to Aosta and 
 Chatillon. 
 
 The Becca di Nona (10,384'), wliich rises to the S. of Aosta, commands 
 an extensive view of the Alps. A good bridle-path ascends to the summit 
 in 6 — 7 hrs., passing a small inn two-thirds of the way up. 
 
 From Aosta to Courmaijeuv and Chamoiuiy , and tour of Mont Blanc, 
 see R. 57; over the Matterjoch to Zermatt, and thence to Vi.<ipach in the 
 valley of the Rhone, see R. 60; to Turin, see Baedeker'' s N. Ilalii; one- 
 horse carr. to St. Remy 15, to Chatillon 12 — 15, to Courmayeur 18 fr. 
 
 The sliortest route from Aoxta to Zermatt (p. 270) is t.hrf>ugh the 
 Val Pellina, and over the Col de ValpelUna (11,087'); a magnificent glacier- 
 expedition , but only practicable for those who are thorouglily accustomed 
 to the ice, attended bv experienced guides. From Aosta to the chalets of 
 Pr4rayen (p. 246) 9 hrs., thence to Zermatt 12—14 hrs. 
 
 59. From Martigny to Mauvoisin (Val de Bagne), 
 and over the Col de Fenetre to Aosta. 
 
 CoinjK \fap, j). 2:til. 
 
 Friun Martigny to Mauvoisin 8'|-j hrs. (Sembrancher 2'(j, Chables I'j-.., 
 Champsec I , Lourtier i)-.>, Mauvoisin 3 hrs.). To Chables a good mad, 
 thence to Champsec bad , beyond Champsec a l>ridle-path. — Travellers 
 about to proceed to Aosta by the Col de Fenetre should pass the niglit 
 at the Hotel du Gietro/, or better on the Alpe Chermontane (see lielow), 
 where they will be provided with a mattress and blankets (provisions for 
 tlie journey must be brought), 3 hrs. from Mauvoisin. From Chermontane 
 to tiie summit of the pass 2'|j, ValpelUna 4, Aosta 3'|'2 hrs. — From Cher- 
 montane over the Col de Fenetre (unattended with danger) with guide 
 only (20—25 fr. -, Justin, Benjamin, and Maurice Felleii at Lourtier, recom- 
 mended), who sliould be engaged at Chables or Lourtier. From ValpelUna 
 to Aosta a good carriage-road. 
 
 From Martigny to Sembrancher, see p. 235. Inundations in 
 the Val (le Bagne, see p. 235. At Sembrancher the road into the 
 
 B.TiDEKEK, Switzerland. 5th F^dition. 16
 
 242 Route 69. VAL DE BAGNE. 
 
 Val de Bagne diverges to the 1., and immediately beyond the 
 village crosses the Diuinse. The lower part of the valley is well 
 cultivated. Chables (Hotel Ferrodin), i^/o M. from Sembrancher, 
 is picturesquely situated. In the background the snow-dad 
 Ruinette (12,727'), to the 1. Mont Pleureur (12,159'), and the 
 Glacier de Getroz. 
 
 Beyond Chables the road takes a more S. direction to Pra- 
 rayer, Montaynier^ Versegere^ Cliampsec [3 M. from Chables), and 
 Lourtier (3657'}. Between Lourtier and Mauvoisin the Dranse 
 forms several considerable waterfalls ; at Granges Neuves ( 4843'j, 
 ^/4 hr. above Lourtier , it receives a considerable contribution 
 from the Glacier de Corbassiere^ which descends from the Grand 
 Cornbin (^14. 252' j. About '^/^ hr. farther, 1/4 hr. beyond Fionnay, 
 a difficult pass leads N.E. over the Col du Cret and the Glacier 
 des Ecoulaies into the Val d'Heremence (p. 245). High above 
 the stone Font de Mauvoisin., opposite the Glacier de Getroz , is 
 situated the poor Hotel du Gietroz (7128') in the midst of impos- 
 ing scenery. 
 
 Beyond Mauvoisin the bridle-path intersects the bed of the 
 lake mentioned p. 235. The Glacier de Breney now soon 
 becomes visible, and to the r. the Glacier du Mont Durand, 
 both descending to the bottom of the valley , and occasionally 
 extending across it. The most beautiful and extensive glacier 
 in the valley is the Glacier d'Hauiemma. or de Chermontane, at 
 the base of which are situated the Chalets de Chermontane 
 (7316'), an Alpine farm of some importance (refreshments, etc, 
 see above). The background of the valley is encircled from W. 
 to E. by the Tour de Boussine, Gr. Combin, Mont Avril, Mont 
 Gele, Trouma du Bouc, and Piz Hautemma. 
 
 The Col de Sonadon is a glacier-pass which leads W. from the Chalets 
 de Chenuoutane over the glaciers of Mont Durand and Honadon , jias.sing 
 the S. slope of the Gr. Combin, into the Valsorey Valley, iu which the 
 path descends to Bourg St. Pierre (p. 236). — To the S. , besides the Col 
 de Fenetre (see below), the Col de Crete Si'che crosses the lower extremity 
 of the Glacier d'Hautemma and the Glacier de Crete Seche, and leads to the 
 Valpellina (p. 240). — From Chermontane over the Col de Chermontane 
 and Glacier de Piece , or by the Col du Mont Rouge and Pas de Chevres 
 to Evolena iu the Val d'Herens, see p. 247. 
 
 From Chermontane to the summit of the Col de Fenetre (9140'), 
 the route lies along, afterwards across, the Glacier de Fenetre, and 
 presents no difficulty. Pleasing glimpse of the Val d'Ollomont. 
 The 8. slope is somewhat precipitous as the Chalets de Forchery 
 are approached; descent fatiguing. Thence a bridJe-path by Les 
 Vaux and Ollomont to (4 hrs.) Valpellina (Inn at the baker's), 
 from which a good carriage-road leads to (10'/.> M.J Aosta (see 
 p. 240).
 
 243 
 
 60. From Bex to Sion. Col de Cheville. 
 
 Comj). Map^ p. im. 
 
 12 lu-s. From Bex to Gryon, 7'|-.» M. by a carriage-road ; beyond Gryoii 
 a bridle-path. Guide as far as Avent (p. 244) desirable; one may generally 
 be procured at the chalets of Anzeindaz for a few francs. Path bad at 
 phices. H(jrse 20 fr. 
 
 The route over the Col de C/u'ville cuts otV the right angle which the 
 valley of the Rhone forms at 3Iartigny, and presents an uninterrujitetl 
 series of wild and rocky landscapes, especially on the Valais (.S.) side i 
 extensive panorama of the Valley of the Rhone towards the end of the 
 excursion. If the journey be considered too fatiguing for one day, the 
 traveller may pass the night at Grifon. 
 
 A new road ascends from Bex to Gryon in zigzags, which the 
 pedestrian may avoid by following the old path. IJeantiful view 
 of the vast snow-fields of the Dent da Midi ; on the latter portion 
 of the road a pleasing glimpse of the village of Freniere in the 
 valley, and the waterfalls of a glacier -brook whicli here nnites 
 with the Aren<;on. 
 
 Gryon (^37H'J is a village of considerable size (^'Mad. Sauzel'a 
 Pension). Guides from Gryon to Sion demand 12 fr. 
 
 From Gryon by the Pas de la Croix to the Hotel des Diablerets in the 
 Urmonts Valley, see p. 155. 
 
 Near the last house of the village (10 min.), the path to the 
 r. must be taken ; opposite rise the four peaks of the Diablerets, 
 the precipitous S. slopes of which are skirted by the path in the 
 valley of the Avencon, which is crossed by the road several times. 
 To the r. is the Aryentine (see below), and on the extreme r. the 
 snowy summit of the Grand Moveran (10,043'). In the vicinity 
 of the (1 hr.) chalets of Scernemin (4237') is the villa of the 
 poet Juste OLlivier. For a short distance, a forest extending along 
 the precipitous and rugged slope of the Argentine (7G75') is tra- 
 versed; (7-2 hr.) chalets of Solalex (4821') on the upper terrace 
 of the valley. The path now ascends to the 1. in zigzags, then 
 to the r. on the precipitous and stony ridge of the Poraretaz, 
 which connects the W. spur of the Diablerets with the Argentine. 
 
 Ascent to the chalets of (1 hr.) Anzeindaz (6224'; refreshm.) 
 from Gryon 3 hrs. , from Bex 51/-2 (descent 4) , descent to .Sion 
 Gi/.> (ascent 8) hrs. The Glacier de Faneyrossaz, which descends 
 from the Tete du Gros - Jean , extends to the vicinity of these 
 pastures. On the N. rise the rugged limestone precipices and 
 peaks of the Diablerets (10,731'). The path crosses the pasture 
 towards the E., afterwards inclining towards the r., and in 3/^ lir. 
 the Col de Cheville (0718'), which here separates the cantons of 
 Vaud and Valais, is reached. In the distance are the Alps of 
 Valais, over which towers the VVeisshorn. The path now skirts 
 the mountain to the 1., and reaches a wall and gate which mark 
 the frontier of Valais. It then descends the steep and stony 
 slopes, passing (20 min.) a cascade, and in 10 min. more tiie 
 Chalets de Cheville (0700'). where the brook must be crossed, and 
 
 10*
 
 244 Route 60. CONTHEY. 
 
 tlie slope of the inouiitain to tlie r. followed. The path then 
 descends by numerous zigzags, passing a few chalets, to (7-2 1^-) 
 the Lac de Derborence (4711'), situated in a gloomy basin, and 
 skirts its S. bank. 
 
 This lake is surrounded by a wilderness of rocks and debris, the scene 
 of two landslips , traversed by the Lizerne. In the language of the people 
 this spot is not inappropriately termed the 'Vestibule dc TEnfer". The 
 mountain is composed of calcareous strata, worn into rugged and deep 
 hollows. The lower strata, being soft, become saturated by the waters of 
 the great glaciers to the N. E. ; large masses are thus detached and preci- 
 pitated into the depths below. Convulsions of this kind, which give notice of 
 their approach by subterraneoiis noises , last took place in the years 1714 
 and 1749. By the latter the course of the Lizerne was obstructed, and 
 the two Lakes of Derborence formed, one of which no longer exists. Three 
 of the five rocky peaks of the Diablerets have already given way, and the 
 other two will most probably share the same fate. Profound abysses are 
 seen on all sides, and an hour rarely passes without a fall of stones in some 
 direction. High above tower the icy walls of the great Sanfleuron Glacier. 
 
 ^li hr. farther the Lizerne is crossed; the path keeps to 
 the 1. bank, and passing near the chalets of Besson^ ascends the 
 slope of the mountain, which on theE. descends perpendicularly 
 into a profound gorge , where, far below , the Lizerne forces its 
 passage; 10 min. from the chalets of Besson , at the Saut du 
 Chien , the pathway , only V wide, is supported by poles , and 
 partly hewn in the rock , 1600' above the Lizerne. This pass 
 may occasion unpleasant sensations if the traveller be inclined 
 to giddiness, but is unattended with real danger. The path main- 
 tains nearly the same elevation along the wooded slope as far as 
 (I3/4 hr.) tlie Chapelle St. Bernard (3691'), at the extremity of 
 the Lizerne-gorge , where an extensive view of the valley of the 
 Rhone suddenly opens. 
 
 The path now descends to the 1. to (10 min.) Avent, an 
 Alpine village (no inn), surrounded by fruit-trees. In about 
 20 min. Erdes is reached; at the last house, descent to the r. ; 
 at the cross -way the path turns to the 1. , pursuing the same 
 direction as far as (25 min.) St. Severin , a picturesque village, 
 surrounded by luxuriant vegetation , and belonging to Conthey, 
 one of the most renowned wine -growing villages of the valley 
 of the Rhone; the houses of the latter extend as far as (30 min.) 
 the bridge over the Morge. A few fragments of the ancient castle 
 of Conthey , formerly the property of the barons of Thurn , still 
 exist. Vetroz (accommodation at the curtTs) , mentioned p. 254, 
 is 11/2 M. to the W. , on the road in the valley of the Rhone, 
 about halfway between Conthey and the railway-station of Ardon 
 (p. 254). 
 
 At the Morge bridge the high-road in the valley of the Rhone 
 is reached, and 21/2 M. farther Sion (see p. 254). On leaving 
 St. Severin, instead of following the dusty high-road, the pedes- 
 trian should traverse the vineyards of the hill of Muraz by a 
 path which commands a line view.
 
 24! 
 
 61. The S. Valleys of the Valais between Sion and 
 Tourtemagne. 
 
 (Val d'Herens, Val d'Anniviers, Valley of Tourtemagne). 
 
 Comp. Maps^ 2>J'- ^^<^, ^.JfJ, 270. 
 Tlio (lusty and shadeless high load in the hioail valley of the Rhone 
 olVers no attraction to the pedestrian, who may, if disposed, proceed from 
 l!ex (p. 21)1) l>y picturesijiie mountain-paths (guide necessary for the diller- 
 ent pasSes) in G or 7 days to Zcnnatt (R. GG). — The first evening from 
 Hex to Gryon, V\-z M. (p. 243). 1st day, over the Col de Cheville to Sion, 
 1)').! hrs. (R. 60). — 2nd day, by the Val d He'rens t(j Kvolena, lU'j-.. M. — 
 3rd day, over the Col de Torrent to St. Lnc in the Val d'Anniviers, 12 hrs. 
 — 4th day, to the Rella Tola, and by the Pas dn R(jeuf to Meiden in 
 the Valley of Tourtemagne, 8'ji; hrs. — 5th day, over the Augstbordpa.ss 
 to St. Nicolaus in the Vallev of Zermatt, 7 hrs. — Gth dav, to the Rifl'el 
 alx.ve Zermatt, 8 hrs. (RR. G5, 6G). — iMap: Nos. 17, IS," 21, and 22 of 
 Dufour's Map will be found useful. 
 
 a. From Sion through the Val d'Herens to Evolena, and over the Col de 
 Torrent into the Val d'Anniviers. 
 
 To Evolena lG"j JI., 1)V a new carriage-road comiileteil in ISGS. Over 
 fhe Col de Torrent with guide in 11—12 hrs. 
 
 The road from Sion to Kvolena qnits tlie higli-road b(!yun(l 
 tlie Rhone bridge (1624 'J, and, gradually ascending in a straight 
 direction, passes La Crete; then on the 1. bank of the Boryne, 
 whicli Hows far below, to (21/4 M.) Vex (^Inn, good red wine), at 
 the isolated cliurch of which the view tirst opens. On the op- 
 posite (E.) side of the valley is the hermitage of Longehoryne. 
 In the foreground rises the Dent de Veisioi; somewliat farther, the 
 Dent Blanche becomes visible, and adjacent to it, the Dent 
 d'Herens (13,7 14'J, which remains in view the whole way. 
 
 The road is now nearly level as far as the entrance of tlie 
 Vid d'Neremence (Orsiera-Valley) , as the W. portion of tlie Val 
 d'Herens is termed , from the upper extremity of which glacier- 
 passes lead to the Val d'Herens to the E. , and to the Val de 
 15agne (p. '24 '2j to the S.VV. The Val d'H«^rens and the adjacent 
 Val d'Anniviers are remarkable for the prosperity of their in- 
 habitants; almost every peasant possesses one or more mules, 
 employed In the cultivation of corn-llelds in apparently inaccess- 
 ible situations. 
 
 After traversing the Val d'H<5renience , the road follows the 
 E. arm of the valley, the VaL d'Herens, properly so called (on 
 the 1. curious hillocks, each surmounted by a flat stone), and 
 leads by Vseiyne to the (7'/.) M. ) Cludetn de Prajean. Here the 
 road crosses the Borgne, ascends 3 M. more, and then gradually 
 descends to (6 M.) 
 
 Evolena (4r>22') {*HGtel de la Dent Blanche , at the S. end 
 of the village; Hotel du Mont Colon), the principal place in the 
 valley. In the chur.hyard repose the remains of M. Qnensell, a 
 lianoveriaii gentleman who was murdered in 1S03.
 
 246 Route 61. ^AL D'HERENS. 
 
 The Guides nt Evolena, who arc inferior to those of Zermatt, frequently 
 demand fees in excess of their taritl', which is as follows: Glacier de Fcr- 
 pecle or Glacier de Vouasson 3. Couronnc dc Bre'ona 5, Sasseneire G, Dent 
 de Veisivi 7. Glacier de TArolla 5, Cascade des Ignes 4, Aig:\iille de la Za 6, 
 over tlie Col de Torrent 5, to Vissoie (unnecessary) 10 fr. — Over the Col 
 de Colon to Bionaz 20, Col d'Herens to Zermatt 20, Col du aiont-Rouge to 
 Cheminntnne IS fr. — Porters 5 fr. per day. 
 
 All interesting point of view is at the chalets of Forrlaz (8. 
 of Evolena, 2 hrs. there and back), whence the Ferpecle Glacier, 
 Pigne d'Arolle, Dent Blanche, etc. are surveyed. 
 
 The Pic d'Arzinol (9F^19'1, a pointed mountain W. of Evolena, ascended 
 hy a tolerable path in 4 hrs. (with guide), commands a fine panorama, 
 especially towards the S. 
 
 The Val d'Herens divides, 1 hr. 8. of Evolena, at Hauderes 
 (4747'). The S.E. branch, which retains the name of the main 
 valley, is terminated by the Glacier de Ferpecle , 21/2 hrs. from 
 Evolena. 
 
 A visit to the Glacier dc Fe r p l' c I e ^ thoug hsomewhat laborious, will 
 repay the fatigue ; guide not ahsolutely necessary. The path follows the r. 
 tiank of the Borgne. The Alp BricoUa (refreshments), which is attained in 
 3 hrs., is the best point of view. The Movt Minv divides the upper portion 
 of the glacier into two arms, that to the W. bearing the name of Glacier 
 du Mont Mine. Imposing mountain scenery. 
 
 The 8. branch of the Val d'Herens is called Val de I'Arolla, 
 and terminates in the Glacier de I'Arolla. 
 
 G I a ci e r d e r A roll a. At (1 fr.) Hauderes (sec above) the Borgne is 
 crossed to the r., and the 1. bank of the glacier brook ascended. Beyond 
 (1 hr.) the Chapel of St. BarlMleiuy., to the r. the Cascade dea Ignes., which 
 here emerges from the Glacier des Ignes. In 11J2 hr. more the Chalets de 
 CArolla (6571') (at /. Anzelin's two beds, wine, and coffee) are attained. 
 They are surrounded by Alpine cedars, and magnificently situated opposite 
 the imposing Mont Colon (11,P55'), whose base is encircled by the Glacier 
 de TArolla on one side and the Glacier de Vvibez on the other, which 
 unite their masses in lofty ice-cascades. 
 
 Ascent of the Sasseneire, see below. The Couronne de Breona (10,382'), 
 m()re to the S., commands a view similar to that from the Sasseneire. 
 
 Several magnificent Glacier Passes lead out of the Val d"He'rens, 
 but all are difficult, and should not be attempted except by the most ex- 
 perienced mountaineers. 
 
 Over the Col d'Herens (11,417') to Zermatt (12—13 hrs.). Unless the 
 night he passed on the Bricolla Alp (see above), Evolena should be left at 
 midnight, in order that a great portion of the glacier may thus be traversed 
 before 9 a. m., after which the surface of the ice softens. From the Bri- 
 coUa Alp the glacier is reached in ^l^ hr. ; to the summit of the Pass be- 
 tween the Tete-Blanche (12.304') and Wandfluh 3 hrs. on the ice and snow. 
 The huge lilatterhorn rises to the E. Tlie descent is then made to the 
 Slock Glacier, the most difficult part of the route, and tlien to the Stockje 
 (1(1,161'). Hence either to the Tiefevmatten Glacier (said not always to be 
 passable; the Editor found no difficulty in Sept., 1863), or by the base of 
 the Stockje (somewhat fatiguing) to the Z'Mvlt Glacier, from which the 
 traveller descends to the Staffel Alp (4 hrs. from the summit of the pass), 
 and regains a firm footing. Thence to Zermatt in l'|2 hr. 
 
 Over the Col de Colon (10,269') to Pre'rayen (6598') in the Valpellina 
 Valleii (Piedmont), and thence in 7 hrs. to Aosta (p. 240), a route aflording 
 a succession of the grandest snow-scenes, skirting the base of the almost 
 perpendicular rocky slopes of Mont Colon (11,955'), remarkable for their 
 echoes. From the Chalets de lArolla (see above) to the summit of the pass 
 4 — 5 hrs. , descent to Prerayen 2 — 3 hrs. (tolerable accommodation at some 
 chalets), or in 3 hrs. more to Bionaz (accomm. at the cure's).
 
 COL I)E TOKHKNT. (il. Route. 247 
 
 To the W. tlirco passes, two of tlu.-m close toj;etlier, lead Iroin the 
 upper extremity of the Val d<; rArolla: the Col de Riedmatten (9354', to 
 the N.) aiui the" Pas de Chevres (DTO.T, to (he S.), traversing the Glacier do 
 Durand or Scifloii (not to tic eonfoiinded with the Glacier Dnrand in the 
 Valley of Zinal, p. 248). The lirst leads N. into the Val des Dir, the upper 
 part of the Val dlleremeiicc (p. 245), the second (danjierous) to the S.W. 
 across the Glacier de Gctroz and the Col du Mont Rouge (10,958') into the 
 Val de Ragne (p. 424). The third, fcrand, hut diflicult, crosses the Glacier 
 de Piece^ Glacier de Viiibez, ISerra de Vuibez (lU, 118', also termed Col de 
 Piece., or de Cherinoutane) ^ and Glacier d' Haute iiima (de C/iermontane) 
 (p. 242), and also leads into the Val de Ratine. From the Chalets de TArfdla 
 to those of Chennontane 9—10, to the Hotel du Gietroz 12—13 hrs. (see 
 \>. 242). From the summit of the pass beautiful view of the W. portion of 
 the Hernese Alps, the Ai^iuiile de la Za, Dent Hlanche, and Mont Colon. 
 
 A bridle-path over Hie Col de Torrent f9o84'), the summit 
 of w'liieh is reached in :') hrs. , lea<ls from Kvolena to the Val 
 d' Annivier.'^ (or Einfi^rhthtd)., a valley parallel with the Val d'Hc;- 
 reiis. The (•ulminating point is indicated by a cross and pyramid 
 of stones. 
 
 The -Sasseneire (10,692'), which rises to the N.W. above the Col de 
 Toirent (0 hrs. fn)m Evolena), may l»e safely ascended frr)m this point ; 
 hut its rugged sides are somewliat fliflicult of access near the summit. A 
 snjierh panorama is enjoyed of the I$ernesc Alps, which stretch away to 
 the N. •, the Jura h)oks like a blue hand beyond the Col de Cheville (p. 243), 
 which, as it were, forms an immense frame to the jiicture. To the S. the 
 altintion is es]>ecially arrested by the colossal pyramid of tba Den/ Blanc/ie 
 ( I '1,327'), the Glacier de Ferpi'cle (s. p. 246), and the masses whicli surround it. 
 
 On the N. side of the Sasseneire a very interesting hridle-])ath cro.sses 
 the Pas de Lona (87()0') into the Val (PAnniviers ; from the Chalets do 
 I'lrajean to (Vrimence 8 hrs. From the culminating point the summit of 
 the liecx de Bossoii (10,367') mav be attained in 2 hrs. j view strikinglv 
 beautiful. 
 
 The path wliich descends from the Col de Torrent to the 
 Val d'Anniviers skirts the little Lac Zozanne on the N. sirfe, and 
 passes by the Torrent -Alp into the Val de Moiry (or Val de 
 Torrent), the upper S.W. branch of the Val dWnniviers, termi- 
 nated to the S. by the great Glacier de Moiry. [From this point 
 tiu! traveller may proceed direct to Zinal (see p. 248) by remount- 
 ing to the K. the somewhat precipitous slope on the other side 
 of the valley, over the Col de Sore-Bois {WliVZ'):, the ground con- 
 sists chiefly of pasture-land, forming an easy descent; but as a 
 mountain i)000' high has already been crossed, it may be consi- 
 dered too considerable a digression for one day's journey , and a 
 <lirect route through the valley preferred.] Below (irimenre (olOS), 
 the two upper branches of the Val dWnniviers (Val de .Moiry to 
 the S.W., Val de Zinal to the S.K.) unite. 
 
 From the summit of the Col de Torrent to Grimence ^'/o hrs., 
 descent by St. Jean (4021)') to Vissoye (see below) 2 hrs.; 
 thence to St. Luc •^/4 hr. (see below). 
 
 i). From Sierre through the Val d'Anniviers to Zinal (and over the Col 
 de Zinal to Zermatt). 
 To Vissoye (3'|j hrs.) a well constructed path, thence to Zinal {2^\\ hrs.) 
 tolerable-, gtiidc unneces.sary. Over the Col de Zinal (11—12 hrs.), with 
 guide, steady head indispensable.
 
 248 Route 61. ZINAL. 
 
 In the valley of the Rhone, beyond the (3/^ M.) bridge , the 
 path , which is easily recognised , diverges to the r. It then 
 ascends rapidly towards the 1. through a wood; far below lies the 
 village of ChippiSj with its picturesque white cottages, where the 
 Navisanche precipitates itself into the Rhone through a gloomy 
 ravine. After 1 hr. the ascent terminates, and the snow-moun- 
 tains which enclose the valley, the Cornier, Dent Blanche, Pic de 
 Zinal, Gabelhorn, and Weisshorn, become visible. 
 
 At Nioue (1/.7 hr.) the tirst of the wild rocky ravines is en- 
 tered , the path skirting the precipitous slopes , and afterwards 
 leading through three galleries. To the r. (40 min.) the village 
 of Fang. 
 
 [Those whose destination is St. Luc (p. 249} here follow the 
 narrower bridle-path to the 1., and reach the village after an 
 ascent of V/-) ^^- — ^ footpath, which also diverges to the 1. 
 before the rocky gorges are entered, leads to the lofty village of 
 Chandolin (6000'), whence a good path, traversing pine -forest, 
 and commanding a beautiful view of the Val d'Anniviers, the 
 Rhone Valley , and the Bernese Alps , descends to St. Luc in 
 1^2 lir.]. The main path continues in the valley and passes 
 several ravines; on the opp. slope lies Painsee. (1 hr.) Vissoye 
 (accommod. at the cure's, good Vin du Glacier), the principal 
 village in the valley, with a handsome church, lies on the r. 
 bank of the Navisanche. 
 
 St. Luc, Bella Tola, Pas du Bwuf, Meiden-Pass, see R. 61 c. 
 
 Beyond Vissoye (5 min.) the path leads towards a saw -mill 
 (not to the 1.); 25 min., towards the lower cross (not to the r.). 
 At (20 min.) Mission, the path returns to the r. bank, at the 
 point where the Val d'Anniviers divides; to the W. the VaL de 
 Torrent (Col de Torrent to Evolena, see p. 247) , to the E. the 
 Val de Zinal. The path now leads to (^/^ hr.) Ayer (4777') 
 in the latter valley , beyond which it winds upwards and passes 
 a stony wilderness. The Navisanche is (1/9 hr-) crossed ; the 
 path passes a chapel on the 1. bank , and (1/2 hr.) recrosses to 
 the r. bank; 40 min. Zinal (5505') (*//ofei dw 7)arand, the land- 
 lord Bapt. Epiney is an experienced guide). The valley termi- 
 nates towards the S. in the magnilicent Glacier Durand or Zinal, 
 1 hr. from Zinal, which descends from the Ober- Gabelhorn (13,303'). 
 
 The Alp I'Allee (7178') (' Montague de la Lets') (to the \V. above the 
 lower extremity of the glacier, 2 hrs. from Zinal), which is crossed by the 
 path to the glacier-passes mentioned below , commands a noble prospect of 
 the background of the valley, of the entire chain fiom the Dent Blanche 
 to the Weisxlior'n, overtopped by the pyramid of the Matterhorn, and of 
 the glaciers of Durand and Morning, separated by the graceful double- 
 peaked pyramid of Lo Besso {^L'Obeche^ ; l'^,ObT). The path may be found 
 without a guide. Beyond the hotel (10 min.) by a bridge to the 1. bank, 
 straight towards the wood ; >)•_. hr. fragments of rock , wliere the path 
 gradually ascends; 20 min., a ravine with waterfall in the background; 
 3 min., a stone chalet on the lirst mountain terrace. Thence a somewhat
 
 ST. LUC. 61. Route. 249 
 
 steep ascent i 3|, hr. , to the 1.; lU niin., the chalet on tlie Alp. Descent 
 in I'l-.' hr. 
 
 The Alp I'Arpitetta, oppo.<;ite the last -mentioned, towards the N.E., 
 alTords another imposing scene, and overlooks the W. side of the Weisshorn 
 and the entire Mouiing Glacier, the S. extremity of which is hounded by 
 the RothlKjrn. — By crossing the lower portion of the glacier (with guide), 
 Ixith the al)ove points of view may he included in tlic same excursion. 
 
 The Roc Noir (see below) is another grand point of view j a.scent some- 
 what dillicult, never without guide. 
 
 P'rnni ZInal over the Col de Sorebois into the Torrent valley, and over 
 the Col de Torrent to Evolena, .see p. 247. 
 
 Tho.se who desire to proceed from Zinal to St. Luc return by the 
 above-described path to Ayer, where they diverge to the r. and ascend the 
 hill, crossing the meadows; guide desirable. 
 
 From Zinal to Zermatt two i)asses traverse the Durand Glacier. The 
 shorter is the Col de Zinal, or Triftjoch (11,G14') and the Trift Glacier 
 (12 — 14 hrs.), of late years rendered more practicable at the expense of gov- 
 ernment. Although probably known in remote ages, this pass had not been 
 traver.sed within the memory of man , until an Englishman accomplished 
 the passage in 1855. It now presents no unusual difficulty, but the walk 
 over the glacier is in some seasons more fatiguing than in others. The glacier 
 is reached below the Alp TAllee (sec above) and ascended as far as the S. 
 slope of Lo Be.'t.'io (3')2 hrs. from Zinal). Then W. across the upper part of 
 the glacier to (PJ4 hr.) the base of the rocky precipice of the Tri/Uiorn 
 (12,2G1'), part of which is ascended (without danger) by means of a ladder 
 and rope attached to the rock. Towards the summit of the Pass (1 hr.) an 
 iron chain afl'ords still greater security. Magnificent prospect of Monte Rosa, 
 the Saasgrat, etc. The descent (4 hrs.) to Zermatt across the Trift Glacier 
 presents no difficulty. 
 
 The route across the other pass is longer, but less laborious and equally 
 imposing. On the summit of the Durand Glacier it leads (not E. like the 
 former) in a straight direction towards the S., passing the Roc A'o//', a ridge 
 of rock rising from the midst of the ice, similar to the Jardin at Chamouuy 
 (most favourable point for surveying the ice scene) over the Col Durand 
 (11,398'). In descending, a straight directiim to the S. across the Glacier 
 Hocliwany to that of Z'Mutt must not be taken, as the lower part of the 
 former is full of crevasses; the only safe route is E. (1.) to the Arbeit 
 Glarit-r. — For both jiasses two experienced guides are indispensable. 
 
 c. St. Luc , Bella Tola ; by de Pas du Boeuf into the Tourtemagne Valley, 
 and over the Augstbord Pass to the Valley of the Visp. 
 
 From Sierre to St. Luc, see p. 255. From Vissoye (p. 248) to St. Luc 
 an a.scent of 3|4 hr. , thence to the Bella Tola 4 hrs. ," and by the Pas du 
 Ikjeuf in 8, or the Meiden Pass in 7 hrs. to Meiden. From Meiden 
 over the Augstbord Pass to St. 'Nicolaus 7 hrs. 
 
 St. Luc (i)A{32') (*mteL de la Bella Tola, R. 2, D. or S. 3, 
 H. .111(1 L. 11/4 fr.) lies on a steep and sliadeless slope, consisting 
 of meadows and lields. The view from this elevated viUajje over 
 tlie profound gorge beneath, and the snow-mountains at the ex- 
 tremity of tlie valley , where the peak of the Matterhorn towers 
 above the white ridge of Mont-Duraiid, is very remarkable. St. Luc 
 was almost entirely destroyed by lire in 1845, 1847, and 1858. 
 The houses erected since are massive, but badly built. The 
 huts which escaped the llames are easily distinguished by their 
 peculiar construction. To tlie N. , about 400' above the village, 
 is the ^Druid's Stone', termed in the local patois '^Pierre de^ 
 Serragio.'i' (stone of the savages), a rock projecting from the turf,
 
 250 Eoute 61. BELLA TOLA. 
 
 the E. side of which is said to have ])ecii used for sarviticial pur- 
 poses. 
 
 The *Bella Tola (10,197'). the most S. peak of a jiroup of 
 mountains (the N. point, 9002', is termed Schirarzhorn; the E. 
 peak, 9744', Borterhom) , an admirable point of view, is easily 
 ascended in 4 hrs. from 8t. Luc. Guide (4, mule 6 fr.) unne- 
 cessary. The new hridle-path begins to ascend behind the hotel ; 
 after 20 min., to the 1., then in zigzags by 3 chalets (10 min.) ; 
 then to the r. skirting a wood of pines and larches; after o min., 
 inclining to the 1. , the path traverses a clearing , ascends a 
 meadow, passing by a hut, and in ^/4 hr. reaches a chalet ; next 
 towards the L, and, on the next mountain terrace where the view 
 of the Bella Tola is disclosed, again to the r., ascending in 1^2 
 hr. to the base of the mountain; after a steep ascent of 1 hr. 
 more, a ridge is attained, whence the spectator overlooks the 
 Glacier of Bella Tola^ furrowed with crevasses; a hut, a little 
 below the ridge , affords shelter in unfavourable weather fkey at 
 the hotel at St. Luc). The summit affords standing-room for 
 scarcely more than a dozen persons. The view embraces the 
 entire chain of the Bernese and Valais Alps; the eye ranges over 
 a circle of 220 M. and a distance of nearly 90 M. in a direct 
 line from the Furca to the Ruet. Ritz's panorama comprises 200 
 jieaks of mountains distinctly visible from this point. Opposite, 
 to the N. , is seen the whole extent of the gorge of the Oala 
 as far as the Baths of Leuk and the Gemmi. The most imposing 
 part of the panorama is to the 8., extending from Monte Leone 
 (p. 259) to the group of .VIont Blanc. 
 
 Tn order to reach the valley of Tourtemagne, the traveller 
 again descends S. to the Pas du Boeuf. Then an ascent of at 
 least >/2 lir. to the culminating point (9154'); in descending, 
 a direction (indicated by stones) to the 1. must be taken. In 
 3 hrs. (from the Bella Tola) the chalets of the Alp Meiden 
 are reached (milk) , and after another hour through forests 
 of larch and 'Alpine cedars', the village of Meiden, or (iruhen 
 (Hotel du Weisshorn R. 2, B. 17.3, 8. 2 fr.). — From Meiden 
 to Tourtemagne, see p. 256. 
 
 Farther to the S. the Meiden Pass (9154') and the Pai^ de la Forrlella 
 (9S()9') lead intf) the Tonrtemagne Valley. The former lie.s to the N. of the 
 abrtipt Toiainf, and is somewhat shorter than the Pas du Bneuf. The paths 
 unite on the Meiden Alp (see above). Pas de la Forcletta, see helow. 
 
 The Valley of Tourtemagne is terminated 3 hrs. from Gruben by the 
 .superb and extensive Glacier de Tourteina'jne ^ or Ban-., which is im- 
 bedded between the Weisslioni (14,803'), the Bnineckhoni (12,6'2S'), and the 
 Barrhorn (11,919'). From the chalets of Kaltherg^ after an accent of ij^ hr. 
 on the W. slope of the valley, the entire glacier is visible, as well as the 
 above menticmed mountains, which tower above it on the E., and to the 
 N. as far as the Zehntenhorn. — The foot of the glacier is reached in 
 2 hrs. from Gruben, and vrithout difficultv in 2 hrs. more the Pas de la 
 Forcletta (9809'), which leads to Ayer"(p. 248) in the Val dAnniviers. 
 Striking view from the summit, especially of the Weisshorn which towers
 
 LdnsniENTIIAL 6-2. Routt. *251 
 
 in till' iiniiitiliatr vicinity, to the 1. the IJruiiciklioin and IJ.arihoi ti , tutli<> 
 r. the UFoniins and Diahions. Tii the N. the entire IJerncse chain is visible. 
 From Meiden to Stalden or 8t. Nicolaiis in the valley of the 
 Visp a bridle-patli (7 hrs. ; descent from the pass to St. Nico- 
 laiis not recommended for ridinc) ascends the abrupt E. slope of the 
 valley, passine; the chalets of the (iruhen-ALp . to the (3 hrs.) 
 snmmit of th(! Augstbord Pass (Of)?!)'), between the Weisset/;/ 
 {10,4()7') on tlie .S. and the Sclnvarzhorn (Zehntenhorn. \0J)'22') 
 <in the N. Ascent of the latter from the summit of the pass fati- 
 guing, but free from danger; view scarcely inferior to that from 
 the Bella Tola fp. 'ifiO). Descent to Stalden in the valley of the 
 Visp by the Atiystbordthal , to (3'/-2 hrs.) St. Nicolaus by tlic 
 Jimf/dlpen and Jnn(/en. 
 
 Andtlu-r route from Mcidrn so St. Nic(dans lies farther S. l.y the 
 .Jung Pass, lint, alVords le.'^s view than the ahove, and is considi'i-nldy ntorc 
 fatitiniie.;. 
 
 St. Nicolaus, and thence to Zermatt, see p. 268. 
 
 62. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass. 
 
 Coiiip. M<(iK p. I ft:. 
 
 12 hrs. This ronte should only be undertaken by good walkers in 
 tine weather, duidc neccessary tVomKippel or Ried to Kandersteg. ('arriagc- 
 road as far as Kippel. 
 
 Near Gampel (Hotel Lotschenthal), which is reached in '2 hrs. 
 from Leuk or from Vispach, situated on the r. bank of the Uhone, 
 \\here the Lonza descends from the Lotschenthal. the path ascends 
 a steep slope (view of the valley of the Rhone) and enters a 
 narrow gorge, much exposed to avalanches. 
 
 I hr. Lugein, and '/.2 hr. Koppistein (4068') are two chapids 
 jx^riodically swept away by avalanches , and religiously restored 
 l)y the inhabitants of Ferden and Kippel. V4 ''i"- heyond Koppi- 
 stein the Lonui is crossed by a wooden bridge. The valley here 
 becomes broader and more fertile , and possesses mines of some 
 value. 1 hr. Ferden; inn at the lower end of the village (wine 
 and cheese); ( V4 hr.) Kippel (4659'). 
 
 From Kippel by the LoL<v/i('iiliirkr to the Eygixc/i/ioni , see p. 14'2. - 
 r>y the Wetterliicke to Laiiterbnniiien (12 hrs.) a very difl'icult ami fatiguing 
 e.xperlition , especially the de.xcent across the numerous crevasses of the 
 Hnithovn Glacier. — Ky the Peters or Lofsc/teiit/ial Gral to LaulerhriiniiPii 
 ( 1 1 hrs.), route from iho Afnll/iorn the .same as that described at p. UG (from 
 Kandersteg to Lauterbrunnen), an interesting cxpcdititm, requiring, like 
 the above, thoroughly trustworthy guides. 
 
 Then a gradual ascent at first tlirough a forest of larches, 
 afterwards across meadows; in the distance several groups of 
 Imts are visible at the upper extremity of the valley, which is 
 terminated by the Lotschen Glacier. 1 hr. beyond Kippel, Ried 
 (*H6tel Ne.Hhorn), where a guide for the pass may generally be 
 found. Beyond the last huts the path crosses a rocky slope, 
 then small snow - tields which seldom yield to the sun's rays,
 
 252 Route 62. GASTERN VALLEY. 
 
 and in 3 hrs. more reaches the summit of the Lotschen Pass 
 (8796') , commanded on the W. by the Balmhorn (p. 147) , on 
 the E. by the Schildhorn, or Hockenhorn (10,817') , whence a 
 glacier , in the form of an arch , descends to the valley of Ga- 
 stern. The *view towards the S. from the summit of the pass 
 is limited , but becomes strikingly grand lower down ; to the 
 S.E. rise the Nesthorner with their glaciers; to the S., above the 
 lower mountains which bound the 1. bank of the Rhone, towers 
 the magnilicent group of the Mischabel, the Weisshorn, and Monte 
 Rosa; to the N. are the precipitous snowy slopes of the Uolden- 
 horn and the Bliimlisalp ; to the N.E. the vast Kander Glacier, 
 the E. part of which is called the Tschingel Glacier, surmounted 
 by the Mutthorn. 
 
 In the descent to the wild valley of Gastern , the traveller 
 passes a field of snow and reaches the glacier which descends 
 from the Lotschenberg into the valley. The 1. side of the glacier 
 is followed , along the slopes of the Balmhorn ; In some places 
 the guide precedes the traveller and hews a path with his axe. 
 At the end of the glacier, the Valley of Gastern opens ; near the 
 chalet a magnificent mountain view , especially of the extensive 
 AlpetU Glacier^ which descends from the Kander Glacier (p. 146) 
 and is overtopped by the Mutthorn or Mtttelhorn (9958'). 
 
 13/4 hr. Gasterndorf or Im Selden (5044 ft.), a group of 
 miserable cabins , near which some slight attempts at cultivation 
 are seen. Alpine fare and accommodation at the chalet of the 
 brothers Kuenzi. 
 
 A magnificent forest , which for many ages has resisted the 
 avalanches oi the Doldeiihorn, is now traversed. The Kander here 
 flows through a chaos of rocks. In 
 
 1 hr. Gasternholz (4433'J is reached. As the traveller 
 descends, the traces of avalanches become more perceptible. The 
 valley forms a curve, and expands, bounded on the S. by the 
 Altels (11.923') and on theN. by the Fm^iocA; (9200'). The valley 
 of Gastern was far more populous 60 years ago than it is now; 
 the wholesale and indiscriminate removal of trees has so exposed 
 it to the ravages of avalanches, that from the month of February 
 to the hay-harvest It is abandoned by its inhabitants. The Kan- 
 der has forced itself a passage through the 
 
 1 hr. Klus, a narrow gorge, beyond which the valley of the 
 Kander and the Gemmi route are reached. 
 
 1/2 hr. Kandersteg (see p. 146). The ascent from Kander- 
 steg to Gastern occupies 2'/2 lirs- The path is frequently Injured 
 by the inundations of the Kander, rendering considerable digres- 
 sions necessary.
 
 253 
 
 63. From Martigny to Arona on Lago Maggiore 
 by the Simplon. 
 
 Coinp. Maps, pp. ID!., 138. 
 
 By Railway from Sfaitifrny to Siorrc in 1 hr. 20 min. ^ fares 5 fr. 
 5, 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 05 c. (from Lausanne to Sicrro in 4'|2 — 5 hrs., fares 12 fr. 
 35, 8 fr. 40, G fr. 20 c. \ from Geneva to Sierre in S^Ji— 7 hrs., fares 18 fr. 
 25, 12 fr. 70, 9 fr. 25 c. ; sec KR. 50, 51). Comp. Introd. X. — Diligence 
 from Sierre to Brieg twice daily in 4'i2 lirs. (to Tourtemapnc in 1 hr. 
 55 min., to Vispach in 3i|2 hrs.). From Bric^ to Domo d'Ossola twice daily 
 in 9'|2 hrs. From Domo d'Ossola to Arona twice daily in 6 lirs. Dilijience- 
 scats, sec Introd. IX. — Steamboat from Baveno or Stresa to Arona and 
 Scsto Calcnde, see R. 95. — Tliose who travel by private conveyance 
 should arrange to pass the night at Brieg (or Vispach), and at Isellc (or 
 Domo d'Ossola), so that the mountain may lie traversed l>y day. One-horse 
 carriages (generally without springs) may he hired of the postmasters in 
 the Valais at 5 fr. per post (9 M.), and 1 fr. fee. — Good Muscatel wine 
 may be obtained at moderate prices in all the villages in the Rhone Valley. 
 The 'llfidonweiu'' is more highly prized. 
 
 Martigny (1387'), see p. 203. (From Geneva or Lausanne 
 to Martially, see RR. oO, 51.) 
 
 The Rhone Valley from JIartigny to Brieg presents few objects of in- 
 terest. The valley, averaging 3 M. in width, exhibits many traces of the 
 disastrous inundations of the river, the Rfiodan., or Rotten (p. 137), as it is 
 generally termed in the patois of the Valais. Often during severe storms 
 large masses of rock and debris are precipitated by torrents from the sur- 
 rounding mountains, deva.stating the banks for a ctmsiderable distance. 
 The bed of the valley is in many places marshy, and only produces grass 
 and reeds, with here and there an oasis of corn and maize. The inhaliit- 
 ants find the river a constant source of peril and labour; even the high 
 road is frequently considerably damaged by its overflow and rendered 
 impassable. As yet no pci-manent measures have been adopted in order 
 effectually to avert such disasters. — The scenery of the Valais , though 
 imposing in its character, is less picturesque than that of many other districts 
 in Switzerland. Vines flourish on the base of the heights on the r. (N.) bank 
 of the Rhone, above which the eye generally encounters masses of barren 
 yellow-grey rock. The lateral valleys (R. (5l) opening to the S., through 
 which extensive glaciers and snow-fields are visible, oiler far greater 
 attractions to the pedestrian. — The villages and dwellings in the Valais are 
 still less inviting than the country. The standard of hotel-accommodation 
 is exceedingly low ; good water is scarce, and the eye is ccmstantly oftended 
 by the sight of the 'goitre', so prevalent in this region. Gnats are here 
 frequently a source of great annoyance, especially in the evening (p. 203). 
 
 At Martigny the Rhone valley forms a rijjjht anple. The rail- 
 road proceeds from Martigny in a straiglit direction, not far from 
 the 1. bank of the Rlione, to the iodine Baths of Saxon (several 
 hotels and pensions), particularly eflicacions in cutaneous diseases, 
 and possessing a small 'Casino', built in the Swiss style with the 
 customary adjuncts of a promenade, ordicstra, reading-room, and 
 the seductions of the rou<je et noir , which are met with in no 
 other part of Switzerland. The railway -station is somewhat dis- 
 tant, at the hamlet of Gottfrey (loliO') (Pierre a Voir^ Hotel 
 Suisse). Picturesque ruins of a castle on a liill ; similar remains 
 are to be seen farther on , near Saillon , at the base of the 
 mountains on the r. bank. From Saxon the Pierre u Voir (p. '204) 
 may easily be ascended in 3 — 3'/2 hrs.
 
 254 Route. 63. SION. From Martiyny 
 
 The railway crosses the Rhone (1574') beyond stat. Riddes. 
 and the Lizerne at stat. Ardon. (From Riddes over the Cot de 
 Verbier to Chables in the Val de Bagne , see p. 242.) Ardon 
 with its iron-foundries at the mouth of the Lizerne valley, and 
 Vetroz and Conthey , where excellent wine is produced (see 
 p. 244), lie to the 1. of the railway, at the base of the moun- 
 tains rising on the N. Opposite the last-named place the line 
 crosses the Morge , approaches the heights on the r. bank , and 
 reaches the station of Sion. Fine view of the surrounding 
 country. 
 
 Sion (1709'), Ger. Sitten {^Poste R. li/o, B. II/4, D. 3 fr. ; 
 Lion d'Or, R. 1^2? ^- I'/i? ^- Vi ^^- i Amigne and Glacier are 
 palatable wines ; beer at the Caft du Commerce) , with 489;") 
 inhab. (295 Prot.), situated on the Sionne, which flows through 
 the town in an artiticial channel , covered with wooden beams 
 (^(Jrand-pont, forming the principal street), the Roman Sedunum, is 
 the chief town of the Canton ( Valais) ; it was annexed in 1810 to 
 the French empire, as the Departement du SimpLo)i, but in 1815 
 regained its original constitution. In the distance Sion has a 
 handsome appearance , with its two castles situated on isolated 
 eminences. On the N. are the ruins of the episcopal Castle of 
 Tourbillon (2165') , erected in 1294 and destroyed by tire in 
 1788; it may be reached in 20 min. (ascent to the r. by the 
 town-hall), and commands an extensive view as far as Martigny, 
 and in the opposite direction as far as Leuk. On the lower 
 height to the r. , on the site of an ancient Roman fort, stands 
 the old Castle of Valeria, now a seminary for priests, surrounded 
 by towers and other buildings, with the Church of St. Catherine, 
 founded in the 9th cent., and not devoid of architectural interest. 
 A third , likewise an episcopal Castle {^Majoria , so named from 
 the majors or ancient governors of the Valais, its first occupiers), 
 is close to the town in front of Tourbillon; it was destroyed by 
 fire, together with a portion of the town, in 1788. 
 
 Except the Cathedral (mixed Gothic and Romanesque) and 
 the elegant Church of St. Theodule , there are few objects of 
 interest in the town. Near the S. entrance to the choir in the 
 cathedral is seen a Roman inscription in honour of Augustus ; the 
 tower is the oldest portion of the building. The ascent to 
 Tourbillon is the best excursion for a short stay. The environs 
 of Sion are the most beautiful in the entire valley of the Rhone. 
 The head-dress worn by the women of all classes of society is 
 very peculiar. 
 
 By the Rawijl to Thun, see R. 37. — By the Sanetsch to Gesseneij, see R. 
 39. — By the Col de Cheville to Bex, see R. 60; horse to Bex 20 fr., guide 
 to the Col. 6 fr. — Through the Val d'Herens by the Col de Torrent to JSf. 
 Luc. ill the Val d'Amiivicrs, aud by the Bella Tola aiid the Pas du Bceuf to 
 Meiden in the Tourtemagne Valley, and by the AugstOordpass tu iil. JVicolaus 
 in the valley of Zermatt , see R. 61. — Through the Val de Nendar to 
 Lourtier in de Val de Bague, see R. 59.
 
 to Aromi. SIKKRE. (i3. Routt. 255 
 
 K. of Sion the Borgne descends tioiu the Val d'llereiis (p. 245) 
 to tlie Rhone. At stat. St. Leonhard the road crosses the liiere, 
 tlie source of which is on tlie Rawyl (^p. 151). Farther on, the 
 ruins of the castle of Uranyts and the adjoining church are seen 
 l)eyond the bank of the broad and gravelly bed of the Rhone. 
 'llie railway terminates at 
 
 l)'V4 M. Sierre (1775'), (lev. Siders (BtlLtvue^ near the station, 
 and adjoining the post-ofttce , established in an old chateau ^ 
 Hotel et Pension Baur, well situated at the E. end of the town, 
 3/4 M. from the station; Poste , iji the principal street), with 
 li)0'2 inhab., picturesquely situated on a slight eminence, clothed 
 with luxuriant vegetation , and the seat of the nobility of the 
 upper Valais, who own estates in the vicinity. The town con- 
 tains a number of handsome, but dilapidated niedia;val buildings. 
 Several ruins in the neighbourhood. At a foundry near the 
 town the ore obtained near Ayer in the Val d'Anniviers (^p. 248) 
 is smelted. Good wine is produced in this district. 
 
 Post-Omnibus to the Baths of Leuk trnui July 1st to Sept. loth, twice 
 daily iu 7 his. , fare 8 fr., coupe 10 fr. \ one-horse carr. for 2 pers. to 
 \'i.spacli iu 3 hrs. 15 — 20 fr., two horse carr. 30 fr. 
 
 Fruju <S'/e;re to St. Luc (4'(2, back iu 3'(2 hrs.) in the Val d'Auuiviers, 
 Zinal, the Bella Tola , and the passes tu Evolena iu the Val d'Hereus, and 
 t;i Mciden in the valley of Tourtemagne, see R. 61. 
 
 Diligence (^comp. p. 253) beyond Sierre, where tlie railway 
 at present terminates. The road crosses the Rhone I74 M. beyond 
 Sierre, and then traverses a chain {i^j-i M. long, '^/4 M. broad) 
 of numerous rounded pine-clad hills, 100' to 200' high, which 
 extend from the river to the base of the mountains , formerly a 
 haunt of brigands, an important military point, and in 1798 
 tli'fended by the troops of Yalais against the French , who took 
 it oidy by stratagem. These hills (Forest of Pfyn) are composed 
 of schistous and calcareous debris, often mingled with huge masses 
 of rock. 
 
 On the E. side of these hills lies Pfyn (^1853') . Fr. Finye 
 (ad fines)., the boundary between the two languages. From tliis 
 point to the source of the Rhone, German villages only are passed. 
 A number of the inhabitants of Sierre and Sion speak tierman, but 
 French is the predominant language of the entire district. The 
 road crosses the broad natural canal, 15 ft. deep, which in rainy 
 weather conducts the water and mud from the *lUyraben or 
 HiJLlenijrahen, into the Rhone. This lUgraben is a deep basin, 
 or more properly speaking, a vast semi-circular crater, 3 M. ii» 
 length, the bleak, precipitous sides of which are visible to the r. 
 froui the road. During heavy falls of rain the water rushes from 
 the steep and barren sides into this cavity , conveying masses of 
 roik and stone down to the' Rhoiu^. 
 
 The handsome old market-town of Leuk (pop. 1123), witli its 
 castle and towers (p. 150), lies on the r. bank, high above tlie
 
 256 Route 63. TOURTEMAGNE. From Mariigny 
 
 Rhone. To the 1. , on an eminence above the ravine of the 
 Dala, which here opens, glistens tlie church tower of Varen 
 (p. 150; to the 1., on the rocky wall above, a waterfall is 
 formed on hot afternoons); high above, on the r. beyond Leul<, 
 on an extensive shelving pasture, is the Alpine village of Albi- 
 nen (p. 149). 
 
 On the 1. bank of the Rhone lies the small village of Susten 
 (Hotel de la Souste), through which the road leads. (Diligence 
 in summer twice daily to the Baths of Leuk , 5, coupe' 61/2 fi"-) 
 
 On the 1., above the covered bridge of Leuk, are two pillars 
 of an ancient aqueduct. On the plain , rendered fruitful by the 
 alluvial deposits from the lllgraben, the castle of Baron de Verrci 
 rises to the r. 
 
 9 M. Tourteniagne (2086'), Ger. Turtman (*Poste or Lion; 
 *Soleil). The ^Turris Magna , from which the village derives 
 its name, now serves as a chapel. To the S. opens the Tourte- 
 magne Valley (see below), about 15 M. in length, inhabited 
 during the summer months only , and terminated by a beautiful 
 glacier (p. 250). The Tourteniagne brook here forms, ^/^ M. 
 from the post-offlce , a line waterfall , 80 ft. high , worthy of a 
 visit. A boy may generally be found near the post-office to act as 
 guide (25 c). 
 
 From Tourtemagne to Meld en (p. 250) in the Tourtemagne 
 Valley, and thence by the Augstbord Pass to St. Nicohaiis (p. 268) in 
 9 — 10 hrs. (guide 10, horse 15 fr.) The bridle-path asccirl^ the steep r. 
 bank of the Touvtemagne brook, passing the above-named fall, which, 
 however, is not visible from the path. At Tmnmenen it crosses to the 1. 
 bank whence fine retrospective views of the Rhone valley are obtained. 
 The path again makes a steep ascent between fragments of rock , then for 
 2 hrs. through the extensive Duhenioald ^ once a magnificent pine forest, 
 but now considerably thinned by avalanches and conflagrations. In the 
 middle is a small white chapel containing numerous votive tablets. At 
 Vollensteg the path rccrosses to the r. bank, and passing the hamlets of 
 ifiggdingen , Tschafel , and Pletschen or Zerpletschen , reaches Meideu, 
 4 hrs. from Tourtemagne. From Meiden by the Augstbord Pass to St. 
 Nicolaus, see p. 251. 
 
 Beyond Tourtemagne, on the r. bank of the Rhone, near the 
 village Zum Steg, at the mouth of the Lotschen Valley (p. 251), 
 above the ravines of which tower the icy walls of the Tschingel or 
 Kander Glacier , the traveller perceives the lofty chimneys of 
 tlic works (belonging to a French company) at which the ore 
 found in the Lotschen Valley is smelted. The Simplon group in 
 tlie background is surmounted by the arch of the extensive 
 Kaltwasser Glacier, which the road passes near the culminating 
 point (p. 259). 
 
 Hardly a trace remains of the old castle of Niederyestelen 
 (Bas-Chdtillon), on the r. bank of the Rhone near the church. 
 The tower of Raron glistens on a flat rock, and above the moun- 
 tains rises the snow-clad Bietschhorn (12,969'). On the opposite 
 bank, to the r. of the road, on a wooded eminence, and built into
 
 to Aronn. VISPACH. 63. Route. 257 
 
 the rock, is the little piltiriinacc- church of TurlUj , to wliich a 
 winding path leads by a nuinbcr of stations. 
 
 8V'> M. Vispach (2155'), or Visp, Fr. Vieqe {Sonne, by 
 the bridge, R. 2, R. I7.,, I>- incl. W. 3^/4. S. 2V2, A. V2 fr- ; 
 *Post, moderate), formerly the seat of the noble families of Silinen, 
 Riedmatten ., Kalbermatten, Blandra, Ulrich , etc. , who possessed 
 a church of their own, is now an unpretending village, and was 
 considerably damaged by an earthquake in 1855 and by the inunda- 
 tion of 1868. Beautiful environs. *View from the sluice-gate and 
 cemetery. Travellers from Zermatt who arrive at Vispach in the 
 evening , and wish to proceed over the Simplon by diligence, 
 should endeavour to reach the larger post-town of Brieg on the 
 same day. 
 
 One-horse carr. to Susten 10, Viesch 20, Baths of Leuk 20 fr. ; to Zer- 
 matt see p. 267; horse to Staldon .o, St. Nicolaus 10, or if the night is passed 
 there, 12 fr., Saas 20 fr. ; from Saas to the Mattmark Alp 10 fr. ; chair- 
 porters, less expcriencofl than those of the Bernese Oberland , 6 fr. per 
 (lay, luggage-porters 5 fr. per day ; return-fees in each case included. 
 
 By the Monte Moro to Vogogna, see R. 64; to Zermatt., and across the 
 Matter joch to Aosta, R. 65. 
 
 The bed of the Visp , which here pours into the Rhone a 
 volume of water nearly equal to that of the latter river itself, 
 is 13 ft. higher than a portion of the village. It has therefore 
 been necessary to avert inundations by dams, as in the case of 
 the torrents which fall into the Rhone higher up, the Gamsen, 
 Saltine, etc. The magnificent, beautifully-formed snow moiwitain 
 visible in the background of the Visp Valley is the Balferin 
 I 12,474'), the snow-field f-Firn'), over the village of Balen and the 
 first peak of the Mischabel or Saasgrat, which separates the 
 Saas from the Zermatt Valley. 
 
 The Simplon road commences at Gliss (2254'), a village with 
 a large church. Pedestrians may take the old bridle-path leading 
 straight up the Saltine Valley, thus escaping the first and less 
 Interesting part of the new road. The path is very pleasant, but 
 its reunion with the high-road is not easily found without a 
 guide. The diligence makes a circuit of '/2 ^^- ^Y 
 
 5'/4 M. Brieg (2244') (*Trois Couronnes : *Anglet€rr€. \l. 
 2, B. 1, A. and L. V2 fr., opp. the diligence-office), a small 
 town at the mouth of the Saltine (1076 inhab.), with a modern 
 chateau, the four towers of which are surmounted by metal 
 cupolas. 
 
 The ascent of the -Sparrenhorn (9889'), situated to the "N. above the 
 lower end of the Great Aletsch Glacier, is frequently made from Brieg. On 
 the ''Belle Alpe., 4'|2 hrs. ascent from Brieg, a good inn. View grand and 
 striking. 'I4 hr. above Platten (village half-way between Brieg and the 
 Belle Alpe) a path through the wood leads in 'jo hr. to the beautiful 
 ice-grottoes of the Alet.^ch Glacier, from which the 2^fa!!.'<a issues. From 
 the hotel to the Sparrenhorn 2 hrs. — Ascent of the Eggischhorn from 
 the Belle Alpe, see p. 141. 
 
 The Upper Valais , and passage of the Grimsel, Furca, and 
 
 B^EDEKEK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 17
 
 258 Route 63. BERISAL. Prom Martigny 
 
 Gries, see RR. 33, 34, and 35. The Simplon road quits the Rhone 
 valley at Brieg : from Brieg to Domo d'Ossola 39 M. , which the 
 diligence performs in yi/2 ^^s- ip to Simplon , 31/2 to Domo 
 d'Ossola) , returning in the same time (^from Domo d'Ossola to 
 Simplon o^/o, thence to Brieg 4 hrs.j. The ascent may be 
 accomplished by a good walker in the same time. — Luggage 
 to be forwarded by diligence over the Simplon must be booked 
 the previous night. It cannot be conveyed beyond Iselle (^Italian 
 frontier, p. 2G0j uidess the keys are sent with it to the custom- 
 house in that place. 
 
 After the battle of 3Iarengo, Buonaparte resolved to construct this 
 road , iind it remains to this day a lasting memento of his genius and 
 energy. The difliculties of the St. Bernard passage doubtless first originated 
 tlie idea. He wanted a great military road ; his constant enquiry was : 
 '■Quand le canon pourra-t-il done passer an Simplon f — and an enterprise 
 was undertaken which would have utterly daunted a less determined 
 spirit. This great work was commenced on the Italian .side in the year 
 ISUU, on the Swiss side in 1801, and took six years to accomplish, at a 
 cost of upwards of 18 million francs. The Simplon was, after the Brenner, 
 the first great route across the Alps. 
 
 The ascent commences at the post-oftice at Brieg , ^/o M. 
 from which the now little frequented road to Gliss with the lofty 
 Saltine Bridge lies to the r. Long windings lead over green 
 meadows E. towards the h'lenenhorn, past the Calvarienberg with 
 its chapels; then to the S.W. into the ravine of the Saltine, 
 commanding a fine view of the Glisshorn, Brieg, and the Rhone- 
 \' alley. The traveller perceives the glacier above , near which 
 the road reaches the summit of the pass, an ascent of 4 hrs. 
 About 4i/.> M. from Brieg is the 2nd Refuge. (Pedestrians 
 descending from the Simplon may take , ^4 ^- heyond the 2nd 
 Refuge, a shorter, but somewhat giddy path, which finally regains 
 the high road to Gliss, in 2 hrs. from Berisal.J The road, now 
 nearly level, proceeds in an E. direction in the Ganter Valley to 
 the Ganter Bridge (^1^/4 M.), which in winter is greatly exposed 
 to avalanches; after 1 M. the traveller reaches (a footpath here 
 effects a great saving) 
 
 9 M. Berisal (5006'J, the 3rd Refuge (post-station and *innj, 
 where voituriers generally pass the night. In March, 1804, a 
 few hundred riflemen of the Valais drove back to Lago Maggiore 
 many thousand Italian soldiers, who had crossed the Simplon with 
 the intention of recapturing Valais. (=^4 M.) Bridge across the 
 Fromhach; 1 M. bridge across the Weisshach; 3/4 M. 4th Refuge. 
 The pine wood through which the road winds from Berisal is now 
 quitted. In clear weather the Bernese Alps, especially the Breit- 
 horn and Aletschhorn, are distinctly visible to the N., in front 
 of which the huge Aletsch Glacier (p. 14 Ij descends into the 
 Rhone Valley. (I'/^M.) Schalbet Gallery, 98' long, constructed by 
 blasting the rocks ; good view of the Raut-Glacier and Rauthorn. 
 (3/4 M.) 5i/t or Schalbet Refuge , in a barren and desolate region.
 
 to Arona. SIMPLON. 63. Route. 259 
 
 The portion of road between the fifth refuge and the summit 
 of the pass is the most dangerous during the period of ava- 
 lanches and storms. \\ ithin a distance of less than 3 M. there 
 are no fewer than six houses of refuge and a hospice. (3/4 M.) 
 Kaltwasser Glacier Gallery , over which the stream issuing from 
 the glacier is precipitated into the depths below , fortaing a water- 
 fall visible through one of the side openings in the gallery. This 
 defile has been fortified several times by the French and Valaisian 
 governments, but avalanches have repeatedly destroyed the works. 
 [}l^^.) 6th Refuye, whence a splendid (the lastj view of the 
 Bernese Alps and the AletS(;h Glacier ; far below in the Rhone 
 Valley lies Krieg. 
 
 A short distance farther the culminating point of the Simplon 
 (OG'ii'J is reached (0'/.2 M. from Berisal), '■^/^ M. beyond which 
 stands the Hospice (hospitable entertainment, good red wine, no 
 payment demanded; visitors should contribute to the poor-box at 
 least as much as they would have paid at an hotelj, at the base of 
 the magnificent Monte Leone (11,1390', ascent difficult, not to be 
 attempted by the inexperiencedj, an extensive building entered by 
 a flight of steps , founded by Napoleon for the reception of travel- 
 lers, and subject to the same rules as the similar establishment 
 on the Great St. Bernard (p. !237). It remained unfinished from 
 want of means till 1825 , when the St. Bernard Hospice purchased 
 the buildings. The diligence halts a few min. only. 
 
 A broad open valley resembling a dried-up lake, bounded by 
 snow-capped heights and glaciers , forms the highest portion of 
 the Pass. The hardy Alpine rose alone finds nourishment here. 
 The imposing Raut Glacier is a conspicuous object on the moun- 
 tains to the 8. — (^/4M.J The old hospice, a high square tower 
 to the r. , far below the new road, is now tenanted by shepherds. 
 ^/4 M. 7th Refuye, on the Engeloch. (1^/4 M.J Bridge across the 
 Krummbach; II/4 M. Am Senk, a bridge, to the 1. the Balm 
 Glacier, to the r. the Rossboden Glacier with its moraine. Then 
 (1/.2 M.j the village of 
 
 (12 M.J Simplon (485(i'J. Ital. Sempione, Germ. Simpeln 
 (Post; *H6tel du Fletschhorn , in the lower part of the village, 
 U. 2, B. lV-2> L. and A. l^Aj; Hotel des Alpes, well spoken ofj, 
 5 M. from the Hospice. Winter here lasts 8 months. Pedes- 
 trians may diverge here by a shorter but indillerent path which 
 unites with the high road by the Algabi Gallery [from Simplon to 
 Crevola at the entrance of the Formazza Valley (p. 2t)0j, a walk 
 of b hrs.]. 74^' bridge over the Lowenbach. The road winds 
 to the (1 M.J union of the Krummbach with the Quirna, which 
 descends from the wild ravine of the Laquin Glacier, and below 
 this point is named Veriola, and farther on Diveria. y.t M. 
 Gsteiy, or Alyabi (403l)'J, a hamlet; I/4 ^- the Gallery of Alyabi, 
 the entrance of which on the Italian side was fortified in 1^14. 
 
 IT*
 
 260 Route 63. ISELLE. From Martiyny 
 
 On emerging from tins gallery the traveller reaohes the *Ravine of 
 Gondo , one of the wildest and grandest in the Alps , becoming 
 narrower and more profound at every step . till its smooth and 
 precipitous walls of mica-slate completely overhang the road , on 
 the other side of which rushes the impetuous Diveria. 1 M. Sth 
 Refuge, V2 ^- heyond which the Diveria is crossed by II Ponte 
 Alto , and by another bridge near the 9th Refuge. A huge mass 
 of rock, which here lies on. and apparently terminates, the road, 
 is pierced by the Gallery of Gondo, a tunnel 731' in length, 
 bearing the inscription: ^Aere Italo 1805 Nap. Imp.' In 1830 the 
 Swiss erected gates at the entrance. 
 
 At the mouth of the gallery the Fressinone dashes over the rocks 
 from a considerable height into the gorge below. A slender 
 bridge crosses the waterfall. On both sides the rocks tower to 
 a dizzy height (about 2000'). The dark entrance of the gallery 
 forms a striking contrast to the white foam of the falling torrent, 
 presenting an Alpine *picture of the grandest description , espe- 
 cially when seen at a distance of 30 — 40 paces. This scene, a 
 favourite subject with artists, surpasses the Via Mala (p. 355). 
 Traces of the old road are still distinguishable opposite the water- 
 fall. Farther on are other smaller cascades. l'/4 M. Gondo 
 (2818'). Germ. Gunz or Ruden, the last Swiss village, a group 
 of poor habitations . in the midst of which rises a tall square 
 tower , erected by the Stockalper family for the reception of tra- 
 vellers , long before the new road was constructed. A portion of 
 this building is now an inn. which, though of uninviting exterior, 
 affords tolerable accommodation. A column of granite to the 1. of 
 the road, 1/2 M. from Gondo , marks the boundary of Italy. V4^- 
 S. Marco, the first Italian village. Then, about 1 72 ^I- farther, 
 the town of 
 
 9 M. Iselle (2175'), Germ. Jesellen {*Posta, moderate), is 
 reached , where the usual frontier formalities are undergone. 3/4 M. 
 Davedro; 3/4 M. Varzo, to the 1. The solitary existing arch of a 
 bridge affords evidence of the substantial character of the former 
 road, destroyed by an inundation in 1834; the new portion of the 
 road, constructed subsequently, makes a wide circuit to the 1., 
 skirting the base of the mountains higher up. After a walk of 
 5 M. through this picturesque and secluded ravine the traveller 
 reaches the Gallery of Crevola, and ^/^ M. farther the village of 
 that name {Etoile, by the bridge ; carriage to Premia, see p. 144, 
 10 fr.). A short distance from Crevola the Diveria is crossed, 
 not far from its junction with the Tosa, which here emerges from 
 the Formazza Valley (p. 144). by a handsome bridge of two arches. 
 The valley is now called Val d'Ossola, Germ. Eschenthal. This 
 fertile district, although devastated at places by recent inun- 
 dations, is strikingly picturesque, and thoroughly Italian in its 
 character.
 
 to Arona. DOMO D'OSSOLA. 03. Route. 261 
 
 9 xM. Domod'0830la(iOOO') (Grand Hotel de la Vi 1 1 e, Rr2'|^, 
 B. I'l-.'fi-., D. 4, L. and A. I'Jj (v.; Hotel d'Espagne, well spoken of. 
 One-horse carr. to Stresa 12'jj, to Baveno 15, to Brieg 45 fr. ; carr. with 
 3 horses to Brieg 80 fr. — Diligence daily to Pallanza on the Lago 
 Maggiore 6 fr. , see p. 371), a small town (pop. 2480) thoroughly 
 Italian in character, is most beautifully situated on the Tosa, 
 which here becomes navigable. The chapel on the hill, 7-2 ^^- ^• 
 ot the town, commands a superb view. Beyond Domo d'Ossola 
 there is little to interest the pedestrian. The diligence halts 
 here for ^/.y hr. 
 
 At (3 M.) Villa the wild and narrow Antrona Valley opens 
 on the r. 
 
 The Saas Pass leads from the Antrona Valley X. W. across the 
 Furgge Glacier, and through the Furgge Valley to Meigeren (p. 266) in the 
 Saas Valley. In Antrona Piano (3094), the last village of the Antrona 
 Valley, the traveller will find comfortable accommodation at the house of 
 the Syndic. The small lake to the W. (formed in 1632 by the falling of 
 rocks from the Pi/zo Pozzolo), and its environs are remarkably beautiful. 
 The Sonnig/torn, situated between the valleys of Antrona and Furgge, 
 to the N. of the Saas Pass, affoi-ds a more imposing prpspect than the 
 Stellihorn (p. 265). 
 
 The next villages (272 M-) are Palanzeno and (27-2 [M.) 
 Masone, where a bridge is crossed, opposite the mouth of the 
 Anzasca Valley (p. 262). About 1 M. farther, the traveller reaches 
 
 9 M. Vogogna (*Corona), a sn\all town, situated at the base 
 of precipitous rocks. The Tosa is here so rapid that its navigation 
 is attended with considerable difficulty. The next villages are 
 [i^f.2 yi.) Premosello, Corciayo , and (47-2 M.) Miyiandone, where 
 the road crosses to the r. bank of the Tosa, communication being 
 kept up by means of a ferry. 
 
 77-2 -^I- Ornavasso (Auberye d'ltalie; Croce Bianca). To the 
 1., on an eminence, the ruins of a castle. The marble quarries in 
 the vicinity yielded the material for the construction of the 
 cathedral of Milan. 
 
 At (47-2 M.) Gravellona (Europa) the Tosa unites with the 
 iS'irona, which is joined at Omegna (p, 37G) by a stream issuing 
 from the small lake of Orta, 47-2 M- distant from Gravellona. (Di- 
 ligence daily between Orta, Gravellona, Pallanza, and Intra, see 
 R. 95.) 
 
 (272 M.) Fariolo (Leone d'Oro, clean and moderate) is situated 
 in a most luxuriant district, abounding in olive groves, maize 
 fields, vineyards, and plantations of chestnuts and fig-trees. The 
 high-road passes an extensive granite quarry, in which beautiful 
 felspar crystals are found. The magnificent columns (^24' high) 
 of the Basilica St. Paolo fuori le Mura near Rome , restored after 
 the fire of 1828 , were quarried here. The traveller now ap- 
 proaches the Lago Maggiore (R. 95), and sees in the distance 
 the hola Madre, the most N. of the Borromean Islands. The 
 road now skirts the lake and reaches 
 
 T^A* M. Baveno i*B€au R'lvaye; Belleime)^ where, as it is not
 
 262 Route 64. PONTE GRANDE. 
 
 a post station, travellers are accommodated in the diligence only 
 when seats are vacant , or if they have secured a seat by applying 
 several hours beforehand. Diligence daily between Pallanza and 
 Domo d'Ossola , see p. 261. Steamboat, see p. 370. 
 
 The road , supported almost entirely by pillars of granite and 
 solid masonry, now skirts the lake (R. 95). 
 
 The diligence stops twice weekly at the Hotel des lies Borro- 
 raees (p. 374) at Stresa. 
 
 12 M. Arona, see p. 374. Railway (by Novara) to Milan, Genoa, 
 and Turin, see Baedeker's Northern Italy; by Sesto Calende 
 at the S. extremity of the lake, and Gallarate to Milan, see p. 375. 
 
 64. From Vogogna to Vispach. Monte Moro. 
 
 Co7np. Afaps, pp. 270, 138. 
 
 From Vogogna or Palanzeno (p. 261") to Maciignaga 7i,'4 hrs. To Ponte 
 Grande 8, Vanzone 2, Ceppo Morelli 2i|2 M. : Pestarena I'U. Borca ij-j, 
 Macugnaga i|2 hr. In the reverse direction the route may he accomplished 
 in 6 hrs. — Good carriage-road as far as Ceppo Morelli. From Macugnaga 
 to the summit of the Moro Pass 4 — 5 hrs., descent to Saas 4i|2 hrs., a 
 fatiguing day's walk, partly over snow-fields. From Saas to Vispach b^\2 hrs. 
 (In the reverse direction, 2 hrs. ascent to Stalden, 3 hrs. Balen, 1 Saas, 
 1 Almagell, 11,2 Im Lerch, 1 Inn of Mattmark, 114 Distelalp, 2 summit of 
 the pass; 2i:2 hrs. descent to Macugnaga). — Guide unnecessary, except for 
 crossing the pass itself; from Saas to Macugnaga 10 fr. : horse from Vispach 
 to Saas 15. from Saas to the Mattmark Alp 20 fr.. return -journey in- 
 cluded. One-horse carr. from Vogogna to Ponte Grande 7, thence to 
 Vanzone 3. from Vanzone to Ceppo Morelli 2, from Ceppo Morelli to Pre- 
 mia 28 fr. 
 
 The Moro Pass was the usual Alpine route from the Valais to Italy 
 before the construction of the Simplon road, hut is now frequented by 
 pedestrians only. The great attraction of this route consists in the im- 
 mediate proximity of Monte Rosa, especially near Macugnaga ; the views 
 are of striking grandeur, and will bear comparison with the finest of 
 those of Chamouny and the Bernese Oberland. 
 
 Vogogna, see p. 261. Immediately beyond this village a side- 
 path leads to the Tosa, into which the Anza here empties itself. 
 Boats for crossing the Tosa are always in readiness. The path 
 then traverses meadows and vineyards . and crosses a new bridge 
 to (3 M.) Pie di Mulera (Hotel Cavour), the first village in the 
 *Val Anzasca. (Those who descend the Val Anzasca . and are 
 bound for Domo d'Ossola . proceed direct from Pie di Mulera to 
 Palanzeno, p. 261, on the great Simplon route; one-horse carr. 
 thence to Domo d'Ossola 3 fr.") The new road ascends . passes 
 through two tunnels , and skirts the fruitful slopes overlooking 
 the Anza. It is bordered by fruit-trees and vines , and commands 
 a succession of charming views , with Monte Rosa in the back- 
 ground. Near Calasca (5 M. from Pie di Mulera), with a 
 picturesque waterfall , the road descends to the Anza, which it 
 skirts for a considerable distance. Near (21/4 M.) Ponte Grande 
 (*Alb€rgo al Ponte Grande, carriages) the stream which descends 
 from the Bianca Valley forms a waterfall. Gold mines are here
 
 MACUGNAGA. 64. Route. 263 
 
 worked with some success. Opposite , on the r. bank of the Anza, 
 is situated Bannio fOsteria del Ranipo . tolerable). 
 
 Vanzone (*Hotel de.s Cha.<iS€urs clu Mont Rose), the principal 
 vlllajje in the valley, with 470 inhab. From the (V4 hr.") chapel 
 a majrniticent view of Monte Rosa. The carriage-road terminates 
 at Ceppo Morelli (Hotel des Alpes) ; hence to Pestarena the path 
 is constructed of trunks covered with enrth. but well kept and 
 commodious. Farther on, a path diverges to the r.. which crosses 
 the Mondelli-Pass, and also leads to the Telliboden and Distelalp 
 (p. 265), but commands no view of Monte Rosa. Near Carnpiole 
 (3/4 hr. from Ceppo Morelli") the path crosses the Anza and rapidly 
 ascends the Morgen, which forms a barrier across the valley, and 
 descends to the 1. bank. 
 
 Pestarena (*Albergo dei Minieri , unpretending; Nuovo Al- 
 hertjo delle Alpi, well spoken of) abounds in mineral produce. 
 The road is to be continued up to this point. Before Pestarena 
 is reached, the footpath leaves the^Anzasca valley, crosses the 
 bridge to the 1., and ascends a rugged slope. Near Bocca (Inn), 
 the next village, where German is spoken, a picturesque waterfall 
 is passed, and the traveller now obtains the first unimpeded *vlew 
 of Monte Rosa. 
 
 The parish of Macugnaga consists of six different villages: 
 Pestarena, Bocca, In der Stapf , Zum Strich , Auf der Rire, and 
 Zertannen. Bocca is V2 ^i^. from Pestarena . and about the same 
 distance from In der Stapf. The other villages are only a few 
 minutes' walk from each other. Zum Strich is usually named 
 Macugnaga (4305') {*H6tel Monte Rosa; *H6tel Monte Mora., 
 at the end of the village; guide to the Belvedere and along the 
 amphitheatre formed by Monte Rosa, omitting the Croza Alp , 
 (i fr. ; see below). The village is beautifully situated in a 
 grassy dale. A majestic amphitheatre of precipices , about 9(X)0' 
 in height, forms the background of the valley. This range, 
 unrivalled among the Alps , consists of the four summits of Monte 
 Rosa (or the Gornerhorn, as it is called by the inhabitants of 
 the Valais): the Signalkuppe (il,9Qi'')^ Zumsteinspitze (i 6.00V), 
 Hochste Spitze (or Bufour, after the Swiss general of that name, 
 15,217'). aiul Nordend (15,132'); these are connected with the 
 Cima di Jazi (12,527') by the gigantic Old WcL^sf/ior (1 1.732'). 
 
 The highest peak of Monte Rosa was ascended for the first 
 time in 1854 , by a Mr. Kennedy. In 185i the E. ridge was 
 ascended by the brothers Schlagintweit. who published an account 
 of their observations, with a large relief-map (scale 1 : 50,000) at 
 Leipzig in 1855. The ascent is now frequently made, the starting- 
 point usually being Zermatt (comp. p. 274). 
 
 From the "Belvedere (g;uifle see above). I' 4 hr. from Zum Strich, 
 l'|4 lir. itbdvo Zertannen (the last nionntain villafre). this amphitheatre is 
 seen at a frlance from summit to ba-^e ; the view also embraces the 
 glaciers, bristling with rocks and ice - pinnacles, the entire district of
 
 264 Route 64. MONTE MORO. From Vogogna 
 
 Macugnaga with its cliurcbes and luxuriant pastures strewn with huge 
 masses of rock, and on one side beautiful forests of larch with grassy 
 slopes rising above them. For unexperienced walkers guide desirable. 
 From the Hotel du Jlont Rose the traveller crosses two small bridges to 
 the r., and follows the 1. bank of the Anza until the farther progress of 
 the path is obstructed by the rocks. The bridge here is crossed and the 
 path followed towards a larch-clad hill, from which the post indicating the 
 summit of the Belvedere is visible. — 'Walk (with guide), skirting the 
 amphitheatre which Monte Rosa here forms. Across the glacier t(j the 
 CJ-^ hr. ) Chalets de Jazi, along the slope to (i|4 hr. ) the Chalet de Filar, 
 then S. across the glacier to the Pedriolo Alp (milk), returning either 
 by the high-lying Croza Alp, or by a shorter route across the glacier, the 
 S. arm of which is termed the Pedriolo Glarier. 
 
 The Fizzo Bianco (10,190') is ascended (fatiguing, 1 hr. on the snow) 
 in 5— G, descent 3 hrs. ; guide lU fr. Fine view from the summit. 
 
 From Macugnaga to Z e r m a 1 1 over the \\' e i s s t h o r , 10 — 
 11 hrs. to the Ritlel Inn (p. 271), only practicable for experienced climbers 
 with steady heads, and accompanied l>y two guides (see p. 262), each of 
 whom receives 25 fr. This pass, termed the New Weissthor (ll,8ol'), be- 
 tween the Cima di Jazi (S.) and the ^trahViorii (2i'.), must not l)e con- 
 founded with the Old Weissthor (11,(32'), between Monte Rosa and the 
 Cima di Jazi, which is very rarely crossed on account of its extreme 
 difliculty. The Xew Weissthor route, though very fatiguing, is replete 
 with interest. When the passage is made from Macugnaga, the precipitous 
 ascent to the summit of the pass is easier than the descent in the contrary 
 direction, but the expedition is more fatiguing, and about 1 hr. longer. 
 The ascent is less diflicult from the Mattmark Alp than from Macugnaga 
 |the path leads S. from the Strahlhorn, but must not be confounded with 
 the Adler Pass (see p. 265) which skirts the is\ side of this mountain]. 
 Mountaineers accustomed to ice - excursions may take this short and 
 strikingly imposing route in preference to the longer and less interesting 
 passes of Monte Moro, the Col del Turlo (p. 378), or the Matterjoch (p. 209) 
 to Zermatt. 
 
 From Macugnaga to Varallo, see p. 378. 
 
 The path to Monte Moro, rugged and fatiguing, leads by 'Auf 
 der Rive' in the valley, traverses larch-wood, stony pastures, and 
 finally rocks and (72 — 1 hr.) a shelving snow-field. The summit 
 of the pass (9390'J of Monte Moro (or Peter srilckeii) is indicated 
 by a cross, whence a magnificent view is enjoyed, extending as 
 far as the plain of Lombardy to the 8., the valley of Saas, bounded 
 by the .Saas Grat and tlie spurs of the Simplon, to the N., and 
 the Nesthorner of the Bernese Alps in the background. The 
 Joderhorn, to the E. , commands a still finer prospect; a digres- 
 sion to this point may be accomplished without difficulty in l'/-2 hr. 
 
 The view of the desolate valley of Saas is by no means 
 attractive. Several fields of snow, and fragments of rock arranged 
 in steps , the remains of the old bridle-path , are descended, and 
 the Telliboden reached , a small moss-grown plain contiguous to 
 the Seewinen Glacier. (The shorter path , mentioned p. 26o, by 
 Campiile to Ceppo Morelli, here diverges to the 1. for those who 
 come from Yispach ; it is as good as the path to Macugnaga, but 
 does not aflord the same imposing views of Monte Rosa. J De- 
 scending rapidly and crossing Tellibach, the path now reaches 
 the stone chalets of the Distelalp (I'/i ^^-^ ascent 27-2 hrs.). 
 
 Immediately below the Distelalp , the Mattmark Alp com- 
 mences, situated at the S. extremity of tln^ sinali , shallow, and
 
 to Vispach. MATTMARK ALP. 64. Route. 265 
 
 turbid Mattmarlaee (7155'), similar to the Lac de Coinbal in the 
 Alice Blanche (p. 232j. Until 1»S18 the Schwarzenbery Glacier, 
 which descends from the Strahlhorn (13,750'), extended across its 
 bed. Subsequently the glacier receded from this position , but 
 since 1849 has again advanced. Traces of its former extent exist 
 in the form of two enormous masses of rock, the smaller of whicli 
 was deposited in 1818 , the larger at an earlier date. The S. 
 side of the smaller mass is polished by the action of the glacier. 
 On the N. , the valley is intersected by the (_'/2 l^^-) -^iitt^i" or 
 Hohelerch Glacier , which forms the N. boundary of the Mattmark- 
 see , and is the source of the Visp or Vieye. Travellers coming 
 from Vispacli , are recommended to spend the night at the *HC)tel 
 du Lac Mattmark ('/-i hr. from the Distelalp) , as they can 
 then reach the summit of the pass before the mists (which 
 usually rise from the valleys about noon) conceal Monte Rosa 
 from view. 
 
 The Stellihorn U 1,303'), which rises to the N.E., and may be ascended 
 IV.im the inn in about 4 hrs., is the last elevated point on the E., and 
 ciuiiniands a grand view of the entire E. chain of the Alps. 
 
 Three G 1 a ci e r - Pa sse s lead from the Mattmark Alp to Zer- 
 matt in the valley of the Visp, practicable only for experienced moun- 
 taineers, accompanied by trustworthy guides. 
 
 Over the Weissthor ( cnmp. p. 264 ; guide 25 fr.) , less laborious from 
 this point than from Macugnaga ; the pass itself is, however, difticult, the 
 aid of the axe being frequently necessary. The route skirts the W. side 
 of the Sc/iiparzenber(j Glacier, crosses it in a S. direction, and ascends to 
 the (5 hrs.) summit of the Pass. Thence to the Rillel, see p. 27,"). 
 
 The Adler Pass ( 12,4G1') , a.scent and descent difticult ; guide 25 fr. 
 IThe Editor traversed the Adler Pass, Weissthor, and Alphubel (p. 26G) in 
 succession, during the last week of Aug. 1863, and considers the two latter 
 the most intei-esting, as well as the least laborious). The Visp is crossed, 
 the i)recipitous slopes of the Schwarzeiiberg ascended, and (2 hrs.) the 
 snow-covered Allaliii Glacier reached; !•)•_• hr. later, tlie Aeussere Thurm; 
 3J4 hr. ascent on the snow, Innere Tlntrin. The AUalin Pass (see below) 
 is reached from this point by crossing the Glacier to the r.. towards the 
 perpendicular walls of the Allaliii/iorn ( 13,235' ), whilst the route to the 
 Adler Pass ( I hr. ) leads in a straight direction towards the opening be- 
 tween the Straldhorn on the 1. and the liimjitischhorn ( 13,790' ) on the r. 
 The view of the Monte Kosa chain and the 3Iatterhorn is striking ; to- 
 wards the N. and N.W. it is intercepted by the Ilimplischhorn. The 
 summit of the Strahlhorn, which may be attained in I'l.; hr., commands 
 a complete and magnificent panorama. The descent from the pass is 
 attended with considerable difliculty, when the surface of the solid ice is 
 exposed •, when there is a covering of snow, as was the case when the 
 Editor traversed the pass, it may be accomplished with tolerable ease. 
 The route, skirting the base of the Kimplischhorn and crossing rock, 
 moraine, and then glacier again, is extremely monotonous and fatiguing. 
 From the summit of the pass to the FluhAlp 2'|;, thence to Zermatt 
 23J4 hrs. A Russian traveller through some incautious act lost his life in 
 Aug. 1859, by tailing into one of the crevasses of the Findelen Glacier; 
 his remains were recovered and interred at Zermatt. 
 
 The Allalin Pass ( 11,654') , similar to the Adler Pass, is sometimes 
 rendered impassable by the numerous chasms and crevasses of the upper 
 extremity of the Allalin Glacier (guide 25 fr.). From the Aeussere Thurm 
 (see above) to tlie culminating point S'j-j hrs. The descent is by the 
 Mellichen Glacier and the N. base of the ridge which separates the latter 
 from the Wa/id Glacier to the Mellichen Valleii. Tlience to Zermatt, 
 see p. 266.
 
 266 Route 64. ALPHUBELJOCH. 
 
 The view of the Allalin Glacier is extremely remarkable and 
 imposing. Its immense and grotesquely-shaped masses of ice 
 tower above one another and stand out in striking contrast against 
 the azure sky. — The path leads between scattered masses of 
 rock to the N. extremity of the lake . then traverses the moraine, 
 and in wet seasons a portion of the glacier, and descends by the 
 chapel of Im Lerch to the Eyenalp. A final retrospective view 
 of the Allalin Glacier in all its grandeur . with the vault of ice 
 from which the Visp issues, is here obtained. 
 
 The pedestrian then reaches fli/4 hr. from the lake) Meigeren 
 f5359''), surrounded by pleasant pastures, at the entrance of the 
 Furgge Valley, through which a pass leads S.E. to the Antrona 
 Valley fp. 261). Beyond (1/4 hr.) Almagell , a magnificent water- 
 fall . outlet of the Rothblatt Glacier; (1 hr.) Saas im Grand (see 
 p. 267). 
 
 On the 1. bank the pilgrims' stations leading to Fee, a village of 
 pious resort, soon become visible. The glaciers and snow-fields of the 
 Allali)i/ioni, or Monte Fee ( 13,235' ) , rising above the forest, impart a 
 striking character to the scene, especially by evening- light. An 'Ex- 
 cursion from Saas to Fee (i — 2 hrs.) will amply repay the traveller 
 with magnificent views of the glacier, the Mischabelhorner. Allalinhorn, 
 Alphubel (13,803'), etc.-, in the opposite direction, the Trifthorner and 
 Weispmies ( 13.255' ). A singular feature in the Fee Glacier is. that it 
 surrounds the ^ Gletsdier Alp\ a pasture tenanted in summer. (Ascent 
 by the Calvarienberg. descent through the larch-forest, guide unnecessary.) 
 
 Between Saas and the Valley of the Visp (Zermatt, Tasch, St. l^icolaus) 
 are the three glacier - passes : Weissthor, Adlei\ and Allalin, see above. — 
 From Saas to the Mattmark Alp (p. 264), the longer route (see above) 
 by the village of Fee is extremely interesting. 
 
 The '•' Alphubeljoch (12,474')i between the Tiischhom and Allalinhorn 
 (guide 25 fr.), is a longer, but less difficult and decidedly more interesting 
 pass than the three above-mentioned. The entire route (10 — 12 hrs.) 
 affords an uninterrupted succession of stupendous Alpine scenes, whilst 
 the culminating point commands a magnificent panorama. The first point 
 of interest is the village of Fee. with the striking prospect mentioned 
 above, then the extensive Fee Glacier with its crevasses, afterwards the 
 Balferin, etc. Route to the Fee Alp 3|4 hr., Gletscher Alp 3J4, Langenfliih 
 11)4, a ridge of rock which must be scaled (drinking-water). "Thence 
 at first on the ridge of the moraine, and 3(4 hr. more on the glacier, which 
 a.scends considerably. The wide chasms render numerous digressions ne- 
 cessary. After 2 hrs. (from the Langenfluh 3) level snow-fields are tra- 
 versed till the summit of the pass (from Saas 7i(2 hrs.) is attained. Then 
 a descent to the small Waud Glacier and the ridge which separates 
 it from the MelHchen - Glacier, with its magnificent ice-pinnacles, and 
 affords an acceptable resting-place. The descent is then continued on the 
 K. side of the glacier, after ija hr. turning to the r. at the base of the 
 Wand Glacier, towards the Mellichen Valley, and in 2i|2 hrs. the Tdsch 
 Alp is attained. Thence a shorter, but disagreeable forest-path leads along 
 the E. slope to Zermatt ; the more agreeable route descends to Tasch, 
 and proceeds in the valley to Zermatt (from the summit of the pass 
 4—5 hrs.). 
 
 The Gassenried Pass (12,795') traverses the Hannig Alp (6627'), between 
 the Mellig and Dichtelherg : then a steep ascent to the Hochbalm Glacier. 
 Beyond this the perpendicular walls of the Gemshorn are skirted, and the 
 culminating point, to the N. of the Ulrichshorn (12,891'), reached. The 
 descent by the Gassenried Glacier presents less difficulty. This ex- 
 pedition is by no means free from danger, and has as yet been seldom 
 attempted.
 
 SAAS IM GKUND. 64. Route. 267 
 
 From Saas an interesting pass traverses the Mattwaldgral., lead- 
 ing to the Simplon Hospice (p. 259) in 6, and to Brie? in 10 hrs. 
 Experienced mountaineers are recommended to devote 2 hrs. additional 
 to the ascent of the Mattwaldhorn ( comp. the admirable panorama in the 
 '.Tahrbuch ' of the Swiss Alpine Club for 1864, by Studer of Bern). 
 
 Saas im Grund (5124') (Hotel Monte Mora, substantially built 
 of stone ; Hotel Monte Rosa. Guides : F. Burgener, Anthamatten, 
 Jos. Peter and Jos. Marie Zurhriiggen) is the principal place in 
 the valley. Below Saas is a narrow defile between broken masses 
 of rock. The fruitful vale of (1 hr.) Balen (5026'), at the E. 
 foot of the Balferin (p. 257), soon opens, but the path does not 
 pass through the village. For a short distance it returns to the 
 r. bank, and then ascends to the lofty slope on the 1. This 
 profound and narrow gorge runs between a succession of savage 
 black precipices , with foaming waterfalls. Numerous votive crosses, 
 bearing a date only , have been erected with the pious hope of 
 averting another inundation of the Mattmarksee. Near Stalden 
 the Saaser Visp falls into the Gorner Visp (p. 268) , which 
 descends from Zermatt and is crossed by the Kinnbrilcke, a bridge 
 150' high. 
 
 (3 hrs.) Stalden (2736'), see p. 268. Travellers proceeding 
 from Stalden to Saas should be careful to observe that beyond 
 the Kinnbriicke their path leads to the 1. between two chalets. 
 From Stalden to Vispach, see below. 
 
 From Stalden with guide to a point on the Simplon road below the 
 hospice (p. 259) in 10 hrs.. by JStakleiin'ed, Gspon., and the Och.<ien/iorn 
 (9603'), a fatiguing but attractive walk ; fine views of the Fletschhorn to 
 the S., and of the Bernese Alps to the X. 
 
 65. From Vispach to Zermatt, and ,over the 
 Matterjoch to Aosta. 
 
 Comp. Maps, pp. 138, 270. 
 
 From Vispach to Zermatt 8 — 9 ( in the reverse direction ? — 8( 
 hrs. walk (Stalden 13|4 hrs., St. Nicolaus 2M2 hrs. i Randa e^jz M., Tasch 
 2'J4 M., Zermatt 3iJ-2 31.). Bridle-path as far as St. Kicolaus, and a carriage- 
 road thence to Zermatt. Guide quite unnecessary; horse frt>m Vispach to 
 Stalden 5, to St. Nicolaus 10, or if a night is spent there 12 fr., to Zer- 
 matt 20 fr. ; carriage from St. Xicolaus to Zermatt 15 fr., return-journey in 
 every ca.se included. Porters 5 fr. per day, return-journey included. 
 
 From Zermatt to the Matte rjofh (St. Theodule Pass) 5'ij, thence to 
 Val Tournaiiche 4 hr.s., guide (two in bad weather) necessary (sec 
 lielow). From \a,\ Tournanche to Chdtilloii (without guide) 4 hrs., 
 thence by the liigh - road to Aosta 15 M. Between Chatillon and Aosta 
 diligence twice daily, see p. 270. — Good Muscatel wine abounds in the 
 Valais. 
 
 The route from Vispach to Zermatt is replete with interest, and 
 varied by magnificent rocks, waterfalls, and glacier-streams. Comp. re- 
 marks p. 271. 
 
 At the entrance of the Visp Valley, the beautiful Balftrin ( p. 257) 
 )>ecomes visible, and beyond Stalden the vast Bnineck/ioni ( 12.618') rises 
 in all its majestv. After St. Nicolaus is passed, the Little Matlerfioni 
 (12.749'), the Breihoni (13,685'). and in front of these the Ri^fTeUioni (9616') 
 face the spectator •, and finally, as Zermatt is approached, the great Matter- 
 horn (Mont Cervin) (14,784') itself towers behind the Uornli (9492'). In
 
 268 Route 65. ST. NICOLAUS. From Vispach 
 
 addition to these, many other peaks are visible on both sides, from which 
 numerous glaciers extend into the valleys below. 
 
 The Pass of the Mattevjoch to Val Tournanche may be crossed with 
 one guide in fine weather, otherwise two are desirable. No particular 
 difficulties are encountered in this passage ; it is frequently undertaken 
 by ladies, and is less fatiguing from Le Breuil (on the S. side) than from 
 Zermatt. 
 
 Near one of the last houses on the S. side of Vispach (2231'; 
 p. 257) , stands a direction-post indicating the way to Saas and 
 Zermatt , to the r. , towards the Visp. The path skirts the r. 
 bank of this stream , the discoloured waters of which roll rapidly 
 along about 100 feet below , occupying the entire bed of the 
 valley. At the (li/4"hr.) A'euferucfc (new bridge) the path crosses 
 to the 1. bank , then gradually ascends to (i/.j hr.) Stalden 
 (2736') [Trauhe^ rustic, but tolerable), a village in a fertile 
 district , situated on a mountain-buttress , at the foot of which 
 the two branches of the Visp (Suaser and Garner} unite , and the 
 valley divides. 
 
 The vast group of the Mischabel , the N.E. prolongation of 
 the Monte Rosa mass , separates the valley of the Visp from that 
 of Saas. The culture of the vine extends about 2 M. beyond 
 Stalden, the vineyards sometimes overhanging dangerous precipices. 
 
 The path ascends a steep slope for 1/4 1^"., and then skirts 
 the mountain on the 1. bank of the Visp. Above, to the r., is 
 the little church of Emd with a group of cottages, situated on 
 so shelving a pasture , that the local wits declare the very fowls 
 of Emd must be rough-shod to enable them to keep their footing. 
 
 At the bottom of the valley , the Visp is crossed by a bridge 
 (3/4 hr.), to which the broad, and at places newly-constructed 
 path pursued by the traveller from Stalden winds downwards. 
 (The old footpath , somewhat shorter , but not recommended, 
 diverges to the 1. about 3/^ hr. sooner. ) The path now ascends 
 the r. bank (the old path , lower down , was destroyed by an 
 earthquake in IS')"), p. 257) to the (1 hr.) second bridge over 
 the Visp , where the valley expands; then by the 1. bank to (7-2 hr. ) 
 
 St. Nicolaus (3819') '(* (frond Hotel 'st. NicoLaus, R. 2—3, 
 r.. 11/4, D. 21/2, L- and A. 3/^ fr.), the capital of the valley, with 
 770 inhab. [From St. Nicolaus over the Augstbord-Pass (9570') 
 and the Pas du Boeuf to St. Luc, see p. 251.] 
 
 Beyond St. Nicolaus the carriage-road crosses the stream by a 
 new bridge, skirts the r. bank, and enters a pine-forest; about 
 2 M. farther a lofty waterfall of several leaps is seen on the 1. 
 bank opposite. The village of Herhrigen (4134'J) is soon passed, 
 and 27.2 M. beyond it the road commands a view of the Weisshorn 
 (14,803'^), from which the Bies-Glacier descends precipitously 
 into the valley on the r. The disciples of the geologist Agassiz 
 maintain, that, if the theories of De Saussure (comp. Introd. 
 XIV.) were correct, this glacier must long since have slipped 
 down into the valley, unless frozen to the earth beneath. High
 
 to Aosta. ST. THEODILE PASS. 65. Route. 2G0 
 
 up on the 1. is seen the Graben Glacier ^ which descends from 
 the Grabenhorn or Dam (14,613'J, the highest peak of the Mi- 
 schahel . ascended in 1858 for the first time. 
 
 Iletween the villages of Randa (4740') (Hotel du Dome)., b'/.) M. 
 from St. Nicolas, and (2^1^ M.) Tasch (4777'), situated amidst 
 fresh green pastures, the traces of a former landslip whii'.h is said 
 to have buried an entire village , are still visible. About I'/o^- 
 beyond Tiisch the old bridle-path crosses a *bridge (Hohe^^tey) 
 over the Visp , which here rushes wildly through its profound 
 rocky gorge ; a digression from the road to this point will repay 
 the pedestrian. Suddenly, between the mountains on the r., 
 appears the stupendous pyramid of the Matterhorn (p. 273). On 
 the 1. vast expanses of snow and glaciers are also visible. The 
 road then passes the (l'/4 M.) Spiessbriicke , and traverses green 
 meadows to Zermatt , 12' /4 M. from St. Nicolaus. 
 
 Zermatt, Riffelberg, Gorner-Grat, etc., see R. GO. (From 
 Zermatt by the Riffel Inn to the Matterjoch see pp. 271, 274.) 
 
 The path from Zermatt to the Matterjoch ascends the bank of 
 the Visp, crosses the Z'Muttbach, and loads to the (^1 hr.) hamlet 
 of Flatten. The p^h , which up to this point is also the route 
 to the Schwarz-See (p. 275) and the Ilornli (^p. 275). now becomes 
 steeper. After the Garbach or Furyyenbach is crossed, near the 
 point where it issues from a huge vault of ice in the Furyyen- 
 Glacier , a magnificent survey of the Gorner Glacier (p. 273), 
 Monte Rosa , and the Rothhorn is enjoyed. On the r. is the 
 Furggen Glacier, and behind it towers the Matterhorn (see p. 273), 
 which faces the traveller the whole way. 
 
 From Zermatt to the lower extremity of the Upper Theodule 
 Glacier 3 hrs. ; thence an ascent of 2 hrs. on the glacier, which 
 is frequently covered with snow , but in some seasons presents 
 numerous crevasses (rope not to be neglected), to the *Matterjoch 
 (11,014'). or St. Theodule Pass, situated between the Great and 
 Little Matterhorn (^Pavilion du Theodule , a small auberge with 
 two beds , refreshments not too dear considering the circumstances, 
 'vln brule' 3 fr. a bottle). De Saussure and his son spent three 
 days here in 1792, whilst taking observations. Traces of the 
 intrenchments of St. Theodule, constructed by the Piedmontese in 
 the middle ages as a protection against incursions from the Valais. 
 are visible lower down. The view from the summit is limited, 
 especially on the Italian side. 
 
 The S. slope of the St. The'odule Glacier usually presents fewer 
 crevasses than the N. side, and the guides frequently discard the 
 rope here, but it is safer not to dispense with it. especially 
 after snow. After 3/^ hr. the S. extremity of the glacier is 
 reached ; then over a steep and marshy moraine , and at length 
 firm ground, to the (IV/2 hr.) *H6tel du Mont Cervin, and in 
 10 min. more to the chalets of Le Breuil (0594').
 
 270 Route 65. CflATILLON. 
 
 The path next traverses a wild and romantic valley , passing 
 (3/^ hr.) a very picturesque waterf ill (which may be approached 
 by means of a wooden gallery from which it is seen to the best 
 advantage), beyond which it descends rapidly to (^/^ hr.) the 
 village of Val Tournanche (5082') {*HnteL du Mont Rose, un- 
 pretending, but good). (From Val Tournanc^he or Le Breuil over 
 the Col des Cimes Blanches to the Challant Valley, etc., and 
 to Varallo or Macugnaga, see R. 96.) 
 
 The path now descends to the lower part of the valley, 
 crosses to the r. bank of the stream , and reaches a house on 
 the r. , where it turns to the r. , passing round the house (not 
 across the bridge). Remains of Roman aqueducts occasionally 
 appear at a great elevation on both sides of the valley. After 
 
 2 hrs. walking the vegetation begins to assume the Italian char- 
 acter. On emerging from a dark chestnut-wood, the traveller 
 perceives ChCitillon (4 hrs. from Val Tournanche) far below in 
 the broad and beautiful valley of the Doire. 
 
 Ch^tillon (1738') [Hotel deLondres, recently improved, and 
 well situated; Lion d' Or, a poor auberge) , the capital of an Ital. 
 district (2992 inhab.), with numerous foundries, the proprietors of 
 which occupy handsome residences , is beautifully situated on the 
 road from Aosta to Ivrea (whence railway to Turin , comp. Bae- 
 deker's Northern Italy). The road to Aosta (diligence twice daily), 
 which ascends hence through the broad valley of the Doire {Dora 
 Baltea, p. 232) , is shaded by walnuts, chestnuts, and vines. 
 The wine of Chambave (1624'), a village on the road, about 
 
 3 M. from Chatillon , is one of the most esteemed in Piedmont. 
 The slight eminence here commands a magniticent retrospective 
 view towards the E. , embracing several of the snow-peaks of 
 Monte Rosa (p. 263), the Jumeaux (twin peaks, p. 273) on the 
 r. , and the peak of the Matterhorn (p. 273) and the Matterjoch 
 on the 1. The background to the W. is bounded by the chain 
 of Mont Blanc (p. 222). 
 
 At the entrance of a valley on the 1. stands the picturesque 
 Castle of Fenis. Nus , an insignificant village with the ruins of 
 a castle , is halfway between Chatillon and Aosta. 
 
 A footpath ascends from Villefranche to the chateau of Quart 
 on the hill above (now used as an infirmary) , commanding a tine 
 view , and descends on the other side. 
 
 (lo M.) Aosta (1962'), see p. 240. 
 
 66. Zermatt and its Environs. 
 
 Hotels. ' H otel du Mont-Cervin and " H otel du Mont Rose, 
 both belonging to M. Seiler, the proprietor of the Riffel Inn (p. 271) ; 
 K. 2'1-j, B. 11(2, D. 31(2, S. 2»|2, L. and A. 1 fr. (Engl, books, maps, etc. for 
 the use of travellersj. The 'vin ordinaire' at tliese houses is often bad. — 
 "Hotel des Alpes, at the foot of the Matterjoch path, less pretending.
 
 ■/-■Ijjj 
 
 u 
 
 FV^ 
 
 
 ^R-SJi-u, ^ """t..^ '^ 
 
 ^"^.:jJi 
 
 
 M*!^ 
 
 •p&fW-^ -'^ .'^'P^rl,^' 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 r
 
 2ERMATT. 66. Route. 271 
 
 Guides and Horses. Johann and Simon Zum Taurjwald, Peler Tang- 
 walder, father and son, Jean and Jo.^. Ferren, Franz and Jos. Biner. The 
 Zerinatt guides are generally well aciiuainted with the diflerent routes 5 
 French is spoken by most ot the younger members of the calling. Fees : 
 (jorner Glacier 3, Findelen or Zmutt Glacier 5 fr. ; (corner (irat, lloth- 
 lujrn, Schwarz - See, Hurnli 6 •, 3Iettelhorn, culminating point of Matter- 
 joch rf^ over the Matterjoch to Val Tournanche 15, to Chatillon 20; Cima 
 di Jazi 12; VVeissthor, Adler l^ass, Alphubeljoch 25; Col d'Hc-rens to Evo- 
 lena 25; Trift Joch to Zinal or Ayer 3U; .Mitnte Kosa 40; Jlonte Rosa 
 ti)ur 7, ordinary excursions 6 fr. per day. — Horse to \'ispach 22, 
 Uillel 7, Gorner Grat 10, Schwarz - See 10, iMatterjoch 20, Kothhorn 10, Le 
 Breuil (not recommended) 40 fr. 
 
 Dried Plants from the neighbourhood, very complete collections at the 
 house of the cure il. liuden ; also of insects. 
 
 Zermatt, a village with 4S0 inhab. , called by the Pieduiontese 
 Praboryne , is situated 0315' above the level of the sea (^1870' 
 higher than ChamowiiyJ , in a green valley surrounded with flrs, 
 into which three glaciers (the Findelen, Zermatt or Gorner, and 
 Z'Mutl) descend: the scenery is of the most imposing description. 
 — The churchyard contains the tombstones of M. v. Grote (p. '2l35j, 
 Lord F. Douglas , Mr. Haddo, and Michel Croz, the guide who 
 perished on the same occasion as the two latter {jp. 273 J. 
 
 Zermatt has of late years become a formidable rival of the Bernese 
 Uberland, once the 'ultima Thule' of the aspiring tourist. Its glaciers 
 present pictures of surpassing grandeur, though it must in candour be 
 admitted that the charm of valleys and lakes, so prominent in the 
 Bernese Uberland, is wanting in the scenery of this district. In no other 
 locality is the traveller so completely admitted into the heart of the 
 Alpine world as at Zermatt — he there linds himself as it were in the 
 very sanctuary of the Spirit of the Alps, who thus seems to address him: 
 
 " The Glacier's cold and restless mass 
 
 Moves onward day by day ; 
 
 But I am he who bids it pass, 
 
 Or with its ice delay. 
 
 I am the Spirit of the place. 
 
 Could make the mountain bow. 
 
 And quiver to his cavernM base — 
 
 And what with me wouldst thou T'' Manfred. 
 The Panorama from the Gorner Grat, though destitute of the common 
 attributes of the picturesque, still cannot fail to strike the imagination 
 of the spectator by its unparalleled grandeur. The panorama from Murren 
 (p. 112) bears some resemblance to that from the KitfelbtTg. but the latter 
 is by far the more imposing from its immediate proximity to the mighty 
 expanses of snow and the ice-ridges of Monte Hosa and its neighbours, 
 in the midst of which the spectator stands. The mineralogist, botanist, 
 and even the entomologist will lind ample scope for their pursuits at 
 Zermatt. 
 
 The first destination of the traveller is usually the 
 
 Riffelberg and Gorner Grat. 
 
 The Hotel on the KilVelberg ({>i28', 3113' above Zermatt) is often full; 
 it is therefore advisable to enquire beforehand at Zermatt if accommodation 
 can i)e had on the llilfel, and if possible to procure a ticket entitling the 
 liolder to a bod (It. 2'|2, D. 4, B. I'j.j, A. 1 fr.). 
 
 The 11 hrs. walk from Vispach (comp. p. 2G7 ) to the RitVel may 
 be divided conveniently by spending the night at St. Nicolaus. The 
 traveller then reaches the Kilfel on the second day with strength and 
 energy unimpaired.
 
 272 Route 06. ZEIiMATT. (iorner drat. 
 
 The bridle-path, whicli ascends rapidly [272- descent I1/2 In*.), 
 cannot be mistaken (guide unnecessary). At the Hotel du Mont 
 Rose the traveller turns to the r. (leaving the church on the 1."). 
 and ascends in a straight direction by a narrow path between 
 two houses; 5 min., bridge across the Visp , then ascent through 
 meadows; 10 min. , church of Winkelmatten ^ where the path 
 leads to the r. ; 3 min. , bridge across the Findelenbach^ a stream 
 'which flows from the Findelen Glacier (p. 275); here the path 
 turns to the r. and crosses the meadow to the r. , then ascends 
 rapidly, passing between (7 min.) two huts; 1/4 hr. , a beautiful 
 wood of firs and Alpine cedars , the latter particularly fine (see 
 p. 326), is next traversed, and the path ascends to the I. (r. 
 leads to the Gorner Glacier, p. 273). A precipitous and rocky 
 path (Feli-Stutz), fringed with rhododendrons, is then ascended; 
 20 min., the Sclncegmatt, whence the Visp, as it issues from the 
 Gorner Glacier, and the outlet of the Furggen Glacier (p. 273) 
 higher up are visible ; 1/2 ^^- ? the Eiffel Chalets on the Augst- 
 kummenmatt (ascent from Zermatt l'/2 hr.), where milk and bread 
 may be procured. 
 
 The traveller now stands at the foot of the Rifjfelberg. The 
 path to the Riffel Inn remains on the r. bank of the little stream., 
 and ascends , at first in a straight direction , and afterwards in 
 zigzags, to the upper chalets, and passing these, leads gradually 
 to the r. up the slope to the inn , 1 hr. from the Augstkum- 
 menmatt. [Path to the Riffelhorn , see p. 273. In descending 
 from the Riffelberg to Zermatt the traveller may visit the water- 
 fall near the Source of the Visp at the lower extremity of the 
 Gorner Glacier, see p. 273, by making a digression of 1 hr. 
 (guide necessary). This path also passes the fall of the Z' Mutt- 
 bach (p. 269), and makes an agreeable change.] 
 
 The **Gorner Gra.t (^Hochthdli , Weiss, or Stock Grat, 10,290', 
 4975' above Zermatt) is a rocky ridge rising from the table-land 
 of the Riffelberg , 1862' higher than the inn , the gradual ascent 
 from which occupies II/2 ^r. (guide unnecessary). The summit 
 commands a prospect of the most magnificent description (see pa- 
 norama) ; the spectator is entirely surrounded by snow-peaks and 
 glaciers. From Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn such gigantic 
 buttresses extend towards the N., viz. the mountains between the 
 twin-valleys of the Yisp and the Saas , the Mischabelhorner (the 
 Tdsclihorn or Lagerhorn, 14,758', and the Dom or Grabenhorn, 
 14,941'), as well as those opposite to them (the groups of the 
 Gabelhorner, the Rothhorn. and the Weisshorn), that these seem to 
 contest the palm with the giants of the central chain themselves. 
 The view of Monte Rosa itself , snow-white from base to summit, 
 sometimes disappoints the exaggerated expectations of travellers; 
 only two of its peaks are visible (one of these, however, the highest), 
 and altogether its appearance is less imposing than from the
 
 Gorner Glacier. ZERMATT. 66. Route. 273^ 
 
 Italian side. The most striking: object in the whole panorama, and 
 incontestably the chief boast ofZermatt, is the Matterhornf 14,785'^), 
 Mont Cervin, or Grande Couronne, Ital. Monte Silvio (with 
 regard to its origin see Introd. XIII). 
 
 The Matterliorn was ascended for the first time on July 14th, 1865, by 
 the Rev. Mr. Hudson., Lord Francis Doi/rjlas, Messr.s. Whymper and Haddo, 
 with the guides Michael Croz and two Taugwalders (p. 271). In descending: 
 Mr. Haddo lost his footint; not far from the summit, and was precipitated 
 along with Mr. Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas and Croz, to a depth of 4000' 
 on to the Matterhom Glacier. Mr. Whymper and the two other guides 
 escaped by the breaking of the rope. — Throe days later the ascent was 
 again accomplished by four guides from Le Breuil (p. 269) , and it is now 
 made several times annually (best from Le Breuil). The previous night 
 is usually spent at a hut two-thirds of the way up, but experienced climbers 
 may in fine weather accomplish the entire expedition in one day, if Le 
 Breuil be quitted soon after midnight. Guide as far as the hut (where a 
 store of blankets, wood, and kettles for boiling water are kept) 25 fr., an 
 ascent of 7 — 8 hrs. In 1S7I the ascent was accomplished by an English lady. 
 
 The *Gorner Glacier , which is more extensive than the Mer 
 do Glace at Chamouny . winds like a huge snake round the Riffel- 
 berg from E. to W. , being joined in its course by no fewer than 
 ten other glaciers. The Visp fsee p. 272) issues from it about 
 2 M. above Zermatt, whence its source is visible. The glacier 
 advances annually from 20' to 30'. To the N. the Findelen 
 Glacier is visible . descending from the Cima di Jazi ; to the E. are 
 the Furggen Glacier (on the 1.) and the Zmutt Glacier (on the r.), 
 descending from the Matterhom. 
 
 Another path leads from the Augstkummenmatt (p. 272) to 
 the Riffelberg , 1/2 ^r. longer to the inn than the one before 
 described, but more interesting from its proximity in many places 
 to the Gorner Glacier. It crosses the brook near the chalet and 
 ascends : after 40 min. (path to the r. to be avoided) it turns to the 1., 
 and winds gradually round the rocky N.W. slope of the Riffelberg, 
 the haunt of the marmot, at first towards the Matterhom , and 
 afterwards towards the beautiful and dazzling snows of the 
 Breithorn (13,685'); after passing a (I/4 hr.) chalet, the Zmil- 
 linge (Jumeau.t), Castor (13.879') on the E. and Pollux (13,432') 
 on the W. , become visible beside the latter ; V4 ^r. the Gayi- 
 kopf, an enormous mass of rock. Then straight towards the ridge, 
 skirting the N. side of the Riffelhorn (9616'); V2 ^r. a small 
 stream issuing from the snow. Monte Rosa is visible through the 
 gorge towards which the path leads: to the 1. lies the little Riffel- 
 horn Lake and (V4 hr.) the Rothe Kummen. To the W., in the 
 immediate vicinity, is the Riffelhorn (9616'1, a rocky peak of 
 grotesque form, 600' higher than the Rothe Kummen, and ac- 
 cessible only to active climbers. The Riffel Inn is now '/.j hr. 
 distant in a N.W. direction, and is visible as soon as the brink 
 of the mountain-terrace in front is reached. The ridge to the E. 
 near the Rothe Kummen , is the Gorner Grat (p. 272). the ascent 
 of which from this point occupies I1/2 hr. 
 
 B^DEKER, Switzerland. 5th Edition. j^Q
 
 274 lioute 66. ZERMATT. Monte Rosa. 
 
 The Guy el, an eminence to the i. of the hotel, atiords a good 
 survey of the Findelen and Adler glaciers and the Adler Pass. 
 
 The Kiflel Hotel is admirably adapted as head-quarters for 
 Excursions on the Glaciers , which on a near approach lose many 
 of the terrors with which imagination invests them. The traveller 
 is , however , recommended to engage guides at Zermatt , as they 
 are not always to be met with on the Riflel. The most inter- 
 esting of these excursions are here enumerated. 
 
 The ascent of the ' Matterjoch (11,U14'J (p. 269) is recommended, as 
 far as the Inn (p. 269), even to those who do not purpose proceeding to 
 the valley of Aosta. From the llillel 4i|4 Lrs. (from Zermatt uij2, couip. p. 269). 
 The path descends from the liillel Inn, towards the 1., by the lajtelliorn 
 to the Goiner Glacitr, which it crosses ; it then ascends the rocky slope 
 beyond, to the Thtodule Glacier (p. 269), and thence to the culminating 
 point. The view is limited, especially on the Ital. side, but the whole 
 e.xcursi(jn is replete with scenes of grandeur, and many views preferable 
 even to those Irom the Gorner Grat are obtained. — From the summit of 
 the Pass the ^/■t;/7/;o//t (13,685') (see below) may be ascended by moderately 
 experienced mountaineers in 3—4 hrs. (two guides advisable). 
 
 The 'Cima di Jazi (12,527'), the summit of which rises X. of the 'Old 
 Weissthor' (comp. p. 264), may be ascended in 5 — 6 hrs., an excursion 
 which on the whole repays the fatigue better than most of the others 
 (guide 12 fr. \ one suftices even for several persons). View similar to that 
 from Monte liosa. The route from the Kifiel at lirst follows the path to 
 the Gorner Grat for 'ja hr., then turns to the r. and skirts a somewhat steep 
 slope as far as the (lij4 hr.) Gorner Glacier, which is reached at the point 
 termed the Gadinen (comp. map, p. 27U). Then a gradual ascent of 2-*;4 hrs. 
 on the ice and snow, the last 'J2 hr. steeper. Descent in 3 — 4 hrs. Care must 
 be taken not to approach the brink of the summit on the S. (Macugnaga) 
 side ; for should the overhanging masses of snow give way, the traveller 
 would be precipitated into an abyss of 3 — 40UU' in depth. Tliose whose 
 energy is still unexhausted should not omit to proceed to the summit 
 of the "New Weiasthor Pasx , whence the view of Jlacugnaga , below 
 apparently only a stone s throw distant, is strikingly imposing. An idea 
 may at the same time be formed of the difliculties of the descent in that 
 direction. Descent to Zermatt across the Findelen Glacier not to be re- 
 c jmraended. 
 
 The Rothhorn (11,214') is ascended with greater ease from Zermatt 
 (see p. 275) than from the Rillel. — The ascent of the Riffelhorn (p. 273) 
 can only be accomplished by skilful climbers, and does not repay the 
 trouble. 
 
 Konte Rosa, Highest, or Dufour-Spitze (15,217'), comp. p. 263. Guide 
 40, porter 35 fr. None of the higher mountains has recently been ascended 
 so frequently, even by ladies, as Monte Kosa. Although the ascent is 
 usually described as easy, unpractised mountaineers must bear in mind 
 that it is attended with no small amount of fatigue, and that a perfectly 
 steady head is indispensable. After a snow-storm of two days, on Sept. 
 13th, 1863, the Editor enjoyed the rare good fortune of a perfectly unclouded 
 prospect from the sumuiit. Independently of the view, however, the ex- 
 pedition is a highly interesting one. At the spectators feet lie the vast 
 plains of Lombardy ; the view of the Macugnaga Glacier, Macugnaga, and 
 the Ital. lakes is especially striking ; the Bernina, Ortler, the entire range 
 of the Alps of Valais and Bern, and the gigantic Mont Blanc are also 
 visible. — The route (ascent and descent 12—14 hrs.) descends by the 
 Gorner Grat, traverses the Gorner and Monte Rosa glaciers to '•Auf den 
 Flatten'' (2 hrs.), then ascends on the snow to 'An/ dem Felseti' (1 hr.), where 
 breakfast is usually taken. After a walk of oi|4 brs. over precipitous 
 snow-fields, the lower ' Salter is reached, and in 20 min. more ascended. 
 Here a second halt is made. Thus far the ascent is laborious, but unattended 
 with danger^ the same cannot lie said of the remainder (I'J-j hr.) of the
 
 Kothhorn. ZERMATT, 00. Route. 275 
 
 route, which ascends on the brink ot a precipice several thousand feet in 
 depth by means ot steps hewn in the ice. 'ihe last portion involves a 
 fatiguing scramble over the rocks. 
 
 Ecsides ihe Duluur peak, the fdllowing also Vjelong to the Monte Rosa 
 mass : Sord-End or Gurner/iorn (lo,132'j, Humstein-Spitze (15,004'), Hignal- 
 Kuppe (14.91)4'), and Parrot- Up it zt ll4,0i7') (comp. p. 263j. 
 
 riiu Jireitiiurn (.l3,L)So'j and Lyskamin (l4,b8ij'j are also frequently 
 ascended ; Matttrlioru^ .see p. 273. 
 
 'i'ltur of Monte Kosa, 3 good days' walk: from the summit of 
 the Matterjoch (61. Thcodule I'ass) over tlie ('ol dts L'lines Jilanr/its into 
 the Challuiit Valloj to Aiia.-^, thence over the Jietta-Furvu (,83j'j'j to 
 Uressoneif in tlie Z-//.s i'a/fei/^ over the Cul di Val Dobbia (83o9'j t<j the 
 iie.^ia Valleii, and tlieuce o\ er the Col del Turlo l9(^') to Maeuynayay 
 see K. «j6. 
 
 Passes. To Le lireuil in the Val Tournanche, and to .\yas in the .\ya.s 
 or Challaut Valley over the Jfalttrjuc/i or ThioduU Fuss (11,U14'), guide 
 lo fr. (see R. 65 and p. 209). Another route to Ayi.s is by the Schwarzt/ior, 
 a pass between the Zwillinge tJumeaiix) and Breithorn, difiicult and noi 
 without danger. .V route oi similar character leads to Gressoney in the 
 valley of Oressoney, by the A(/.< ./wi//, or Sither-Fa.^.<<, between the Lyskamm 
 and Dufour peak. From the Kitfel to the summit of the pass G -7 hrs., 
 to the extremity of the glacier li|.', Chalei de Lijs 2^|4, and Gressoney 2'j-.', 
 altogether an expedition of 12—14 hrs., 7—8 of which are on the ice and snow, 
 occasionally precipitous. Another pass between the Zwillinge and l.yskamm, 
 traversed for the lirst time in I8[il, is very objectionable on account of its 
 extreme difliculty. 
 
 To Macugnaga in the Anzasca Valley by the '■ Xew Weis.'ilhor'^ (il,£5r) ; 
 guide 25 fr. The lirst portion of this route as far as the Weissthor (0 hrs. 
 incl. the Cima di Jazi) is one of the easiest and most beautiful of Alpine 
 glacier and snow excursions. Beyond the culminating point of the pass a 
 larther ascent is made over the rugged rocks of the Cima di lioffel ; then 
 a giddy descent, passing perpendicular rocks and traversing precipittms 
 snow-lields. This difficult and apparently impracticable portion of the ex- 
 pedition, for which vigorous limbs and a perfectly steady head are abso- 
 lutely indispensable, is accomplished in I'jj— 2 hrs., and in 3 hrs. more 
 (0 from the culminating point, in all lU— 12 hrs.) Macugnaga (p. 203) is 
 reached. The Old Weissthor (11,732'), between Monte Rosa and the Cima 
 di Jazi is extremely difiicult, and regarded almost as impassable, (comp. 
 p. 264). — To the Mattmark .\lp by the New Weissthor, between the 
 Cima di Kolfel and Strahlhorn , see p. 204. The route from the HilVel to 
 (lie Adler Pass (p. 205) by the Findelen Glacier is objectionable. 
 
 Excursions from Zermatt (_Rifl'el Hotel and Gorner CJrat, 
 and expeditions best undertaken t'roni the former, see above): 
 
 To the Findelen and Gorner Glaciers, an excursion of ',-' ^^'^.^ i guide 
 (3 fr.) unnecessary. The path to Ihe loriuer is the same as that to Ihe 
 Kilfel (p. 2<2) as far as the church of Winkelmatteu, where the traveller 
 must turn to the 1. In 'j-j hr. the Eggenalp is reached, where the patli 
 divides; by either route the Uttlli-iiee is passed and the Flu/t Alp attained, 
 whence the glacier may be surveyed. IThis is also the route to the Loicer 
 (10,190') and Upper (11,214') Rothhorn, which may be ascended after the 
 glacier has been inspected (3—4 hrs. from Zermatt; guide 6 fr.). — Tra- 
 \ellers are particularly cautioned not to venture on the glacier without a 
 guide. I The pedestrian then returns to Winkelmatteu and the W. side of 
 the \isp. In ' .» hr. the brook issuing from the Zmutt Glacier is crossed. 
 >«'ear the Gorner Glacier a wooden bridge crosses the Visp as it issues fr»)m 
 the ice. Caution must be used in approaching the glacier, as masses of 
 ice frequently liecome detached. 
 
 To the Schwarz-See (83d2') and Homli (9492'), guide 6 fr. ; the former 
 may be visited on horseback. This is one of the commonest and least 
 difiicult of the longer excursions from Zermatt. To the Sc/iirurz-See 2'|-j — 
 3 hrs. ; thence to the Uiiruli a steep ascent of l',^ hr. The stupendous}
 
 276 Route 67. APPENZELL. The Canton 
 
 proportions of the Matterhorn (comp. p. 273) arc here apparent. In returning, 
 the traveller should visit the Zmutt Glacier with its huge moraines. 
 
 The -'Mettelhom (11,188') fascent 5, descent 3 hrs.), w-hich rises to the 
 N. of Zermatt. i«i a line point of view, especially for surveying the Mischabel, 
 but inferior to the Gorner Grat. being farther distant from the stupendous 
 Gorner Glacier. Ascent laborious and hardly suitable for ladies. 
 
 Passes. To Zinal in the Val d'Anniviers bv the Triftioch or Col 
 de Zinal (11.614') difficult, guide 30 fr., see p.' 249. Bythe'Col Durand 
 or Col de la Dent Blanche (11,398') less difficult, but longer, guide 
 30 fr. — To Evolena in the Val d'Herens by the Col d' H e reus (11,417'), 
 less laborious from this side than from Evolena, guide 30 fr., see p. 246. To 
 Chatillon in the Aosta Valley by the M a 1 1 e r j o c h or S t. T h e o d u 1 e P a s s 
 (11,014') easy, and in fine weather practicable for ladies, guide 20 fr. ; to 
 Val Tournanche only 15 fr. , see p. 269. Schwarzthor. Lyskamm, 
 Weiss thor, see Riffel excursions. Three glacier-passes lead into the Saas 
 Vallev : A d 1 e r P a s s (12,461'). difficult, A 1 1 a 1 i n Pass (11,654'), and A 1 p- 
 hubel (12,474'), the last the finest and least difficult; for each of these, 
 guide 25 fr. 
 
 67. The Canton of Appenzell. 
 
 Heiden, Gais, Weissbad, Wildkirchli, Hohekasten, Sentis. 
 
 Excursion of three days, of great interest, especially for those who are 
 unacquainted with other portions of Switzerland : 1st. From Boi'schach to 
 Heiden 2i|2 hrs. : by the Kaien to Trogen 2'J2 hrs. ; by the Gdbris to Gain 
 2 hrs., in all 7 hrs. — 2nd. From Gais to Appenzell 1 hr. , Weissbad 
 314 hr., Wildkirchli and Ebenalp 2 hrs., back to Weissbad lij-.' hr., Appen- 
 zell'li hr., in all 6 hrs. — 3rd. From Appenzell bv Gais to AKsiadten in 
 the Valley of the Rhine 3 hrs., or by Teufen to St. Gall 4 hrs. — From St. 
 Gall diligence to Heiden once daily in 2'j4 hrs. , thence to Rheineck see 
 p. 278; to Trogen twice daily in" I1J2 hr. ; to Gais and Appenzell see 
 p. 279. From "Teufen to Trogen , Heiden , and Rheineck once daily in 
 23|4 hrs. — One horse carr. from St. Gall to Gais and Weissbad and back 
 12 fr. : from Rorschach to Heiden 12 fr. 
 
 The Canton of Appenzell lying out of the beaten track (»f tourists, wa,- 
 formerly little visited, but since the extension of the Wiirtemberg and Ba- 
 varian railway to the Lake of Constance, vast numbers of travellers enter 
 Switzerland in this direction. In the grandeur of its scenery the canton of 
 Appenzell will bear no comparison with many of the other mountain-districts 
 of Switzei-land, but it includes within a small space all the peculiar cha- 
 racteristics of the country. It boasts of Switzerland's largest lake, of an 
 almost southern vegetation, of scenes of the busiest industry, of the richest 
 pastures, of cattle with which none can compete, and even of lofty snow- 
 peaks and glaciers (on the Sentis). The most beautiful points are Heiden, 
 St. Antoni/, Wildkirc/di, and Hohekasten. 
 
 The Canton of Appenzell is entirely surrounded by that of St. Gall; it 
 was divided after the religious wars of 1597 into two semi-cantons. Ausser- 
 Rhoden and Inner-Rhoden, and to this day party-feelings on religious sub- 
 jects are very stnuig. Inner-Rhoden, which consists of pasture-land 
 and is 63 sq. M. in extent, is exclusively Rom. Cath.. and until 1848 per- 
 mitted no Protestants to settle within its limits ; even Rom. Catholics who 
 were not natives of the Canton were strictly excluded. This restriction was 
 nominally annulled by a decree of the Confederation in 1848. but that the 
 old feeling predominates is sufficiently evident from the returns of the last 
 census, according to which 11,914 of the inhab. are Rom. Catholics, whilst 
 the insignificant fraction of 190 onlv are Protestants. A u ss e r-R ho d en 
 (90 sq. M., 48,734 inhab., 2361 Rom."Cath.) belongs to the Reformed Church ; 
 iJ4th of its population is engaged in the cotton and silk manufacture, princip- 
 ally for firms in St. Gall. Xo government official receives an income exceeding 
 2(X3 fr. per annum. The popular assembly (p. 75) is held on the last Sunday 
 in April, in even years at Trogen, in uneven at Hundwyl; every male in-
 
 
 gr 
 
 f 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 \ .-I
 
 of Appenzell. HEIDEN. 67. Route. 277 
 
 habitant of Appenzell above the age of 18 is required to be present under 
 a penalty of iO fr. ; about 12,UUU men assemble on the occasion. 
 
 The contrast in hal)its, manners, and costume which exists between 
 these two divisions of the canton is extremely remarkable. A u s s e r - II h o- 
 d e n is characterised by the activity and flourishing condition of its inhabit- 
 ants, many of whom are even aftlueut ; almost every house has its loom, 
 the products of which often exhibit extraordinary taste and skill, and were 
 objects of admiration at the London and Paris Industrial Exhibitions. The 
 rearing of cattle is here quite secondary to the other more important branches 
 of trade. The inhabitants of Inner- lih o de n generally (jccupy scattereil 
 cottages and huts; they are, according to Merian (t6oO). 'a rough., hardij^ 
 homely, and pioit.^ folk' ; their costume is picturesque and primitive. In this 
 canton the rearing of cattle and the manufacture of cheese are the highest 
 pursuits to which the natives attain. The most productive pastures are in 
 the vicinity of Appenzell. The female portion of the population is chiefly 
 employed in embroidery. 
 
 The Appenzellers are partial to athletic exercises, and are skilful riflemen ; 
 a i)Ortion of Sundays and festivals is set apart for these sports. Wrest- 
 ling-matches see Introd. XIV. The singular chant of the cow-herds has 
 a peculiar and not unpleasing etVect ; their language is, however, almost 
 unintelligible even to those familar with the usual ( German dialect of 
 Switzerland. 
 
 Whey-cure Establishments in Appenzell : Gais,\Veissbad,Heiden, 
 Oonten, Urniisch, etc. The goats' whey is prepared on the pastures of 
 the Sentis ; the milk is heated, and the whey separated from it by the ad- 
 dition of rennet. The whey (' Schoden' ) thus prepared is of a yellowish-green 
 colour, semi-transparent, entirely free from caseine, but rich in saccharine 
 matter. The process takes place at night. Early in the morning the goat- 
 herds carry the hot whey on their backs to the diflerent establishments be- 
 Itjw. The whey-manufacturers possess about oUO goats on the Sentis, and 
 even purchase goats' milk from other districts, to supply the hotel-keepers 
 at Gais, Weissbad, etc. It need hardly be said that tlie innkeepers are the 
 parties who derive the greatest advantage from the transaction. After the 
 separation of the whey, the cheese is manufactured in the ordinarv manner 
 (see Intrud. XIll). 
 
 The excursion mentioned at p. 2TC commences with Rorschach 
 (130()', p. 37j. Omnibus daily from Korscliach to lleiden in 
 'i hrs. , fare 3 fr. The road diverges from the •Kheinstrasse' 
 in the town, and ascends gradually to the (^i'/S M.) *Wien- 
 achter-£ck (^Landeyy , inn near the summit J, commanding a 
 view of the lake , most extensive from the eminence a little 
 to the 1. of the road. The road here turns, ascending at a 
 riglit angle past the Wienachter Quarries. These have been 
 worked for centuries, and yield regularly stratitied slabs of sand- 
 stone , the exportation of which exteiids as far as Holland. The 
 road now traverses the heights, passing KalhoUsch and lieformirt 
 (irub ('2()88'), and roaches (^3 M.J lleiden. Those who wish to 
 visit the Kaien (see belowj , need not go so far as Heideu, but 
 turn to the r. beyond the church of Ueformirt-Grtib, and proceed 
 in a straight direction towards the Kaien; the patli can hardly 
 be mistaken. (^From Rorschach to lleiden by Rheineck, see 
 below.) 
 
 Heiden ('204;')') t Freihof, \l. I'j^, per week 7 to I'J fr.. ii. 1, 
 I). '2 fr., whey !>() c. per day, whey bath 5 - li fr. ; Lnwe snuiller; opposite 
 to it, S c h w e i z e I h o f , l^ost and telegr. office ; Krone: L i u d e ; H li t e 1 
 E u g s t e r , K. G to W fr. per week ; Z u m I' a r a d i e s i Z u r f r o h e n
 
 278 Route 67. TROGEN. The Canton 
 
 Aussicht, well spoken oft is a hanrl>ome villase with 2944 inhah. 
 fl91 Kom. Cath.), reconstnicterl since the conflajrration of 1<S88, 
 and situated in the midst of fresh and pleasant meadows. It is 
 now much frequented by invalids who employ the whey-cure. 
 
 Heiden is a most agreeable place of sojourn for invalids, from 
 the salubrity of its air, its elevated situation, and the superiority 
 of its establishments. Mineral water may also be procured. The 
 gallery on the summit of the toAver of the new church contains a 
 fTood telescope, and affords a fine panoramic view, especially over 
 the Lake of Constance. — Diliirence to St. Gall once daily in 
 2 hrs., to Rheineck fp- '2831 tv.ice daily in 20 min. by Wol'fhnl- 
 den., with the beantifully situated whey-rure estab. of Friedherfi; 
 the road is better and more interestinir than that by Grub fsee 
 above): it skirts the brow of the mountain, and commands a fine 
 view the whole wav. 
 
 The *Chapel of St. Antony (.%35'1, 4i!-.. M. to the S. of Heiden on the 
 road to (T'l-j JF.) Allxfadten. commands a celf^brated pro«pect of the Valley 
 of the Eliine (preferable to tlie vie\v from the Kaien"), Bregrenz, Lindau. a 
 part of the Lake of Constance, and the Yorarlberg and Tyrolese mountain''. 
 
 The Kaien. I'lj hr. S.E. of Heiden, i'' also frequently ascended : guide 
 (li|2 fr.) desirable. The road to Tro>_ren is at first followed : after 35 min. 
 the hill i= ascended to the r. in the direction of sojne houses, where, if un- 
 provided with a fTuide, the traveller should ensjasie the services of a hoy; 
 10 min. fir-wood, here somewhat steep, then across an onen meadow with 
 a few chalets, and up the small peak of the ('(o hr.) -Kaien (3fi68'). The 
 view embraces a lar^re portion of the Lake of Constance and the Canton of 
 Thurtrau, the embcmchures of the Ehine and the r?ree:enzer Ach, the Vor- 
 arlbertj and Liechtenstein mountain^, witli the white chain of the Scesaplana 
 rising above them to the S.E. It also affords a characteristic glimpse of the 
 Appenzell district: the Kamor and the Hoheknsten. the 5 peaks of the 
 Furgglen-First and Kanzel, the double-peaked Altmann, the snow-fields of 
 the Sentis, and the Todi somewhat in the background : in the foresround 
 are woods and meadows and the handsome villages of Wald , Trogen, 
 and Speicher; to the 1. above Trogen is the Giibris (see belowt : to the r. 
 near Speicher. Vdglisegg (p. QSI) ; 1. above Speicher, in the di.stance, the 
 summits of Pilatvi" and the Eigi. 
 
 The Kaien is VU hr. from Speicher, and Q'l^hrs. from St. Gall. Trogen 
 seems almost within a stone''s throw, though in reality 3 ^L distant. The 
 path descends to the r. by Rehfohpl, beyond which, far below in the gorge, 
 the road to Trogen is visible. Near the bridge in the valley below, is a 
 rustic inn 'Am Goldach\ 
 
 TheGabris (see below) may be ascended from Heiden direct (avoiding the 
 Kaien) : to St. Anfonj^s Chapel (see above) 1 hr. : then along the hill (Trogen 
 lies below in the valley to the r.), with a charming survey of the Rhine 
 valley and the Sentis. "to the Rnppen (Inn. comp. p. 283), and thence to 
 the summit of th^ Giibris. a verv attractive walk of 3il-. hrs. 
 
 Trogen r29fi3'l ( Srha fie ;' Krone), with 2912 inhab. f^S Rom. 
 Cath.). the <eat of coverinnent of the Canton of Appenzell Ausser- 
 Rhoden, contains nothing worthy of note. 
 
 From the church at Trogen a road leads by Biihier to Gai.<<. 
 The footpath thither over the *Gabris is shorter and far more 
 attractive. The traveller coming from Kaien follows the Trogen 
 and Biihier road as far as the summit of the hill flV^ ^r.); a 
 fl!iger-po.st fwhence a view of the Sentis) here indicates the path to 
 the 1. to Gais over the Gabris. Those who come from Voglisegg
 
 of Appenzell. WEISSBAD. 67. Route. 279 
 
 should not proceed as far as Tros:eii. but quit the liijrh road be- 
 tween Speicher and Trofren by a fliirht of stops to the r. flV-j M. 
 from VoffliseKs") , diverffinp: beyond a p;ors:e which is skirted by 
 the road in a wide curve. A small valley is left immediately 
 on the r., and the path ascends gradually across the meadows. 
 After 1/2 ^'i*- t'^i^ P^*^^* reaches the above-mentioned road, at a 
 few hundred paces from the finjer-post. About 5 min. beyond 
 the latter an inn is reached; farther on, turning to the r., the 
 road ascends into the wood. Before the road quits the wood, 
 at the point where a row of old pine-trees flanks the road, a 
 footpath between two of these ascends, chiefly through wood , to 
 the summit. The first point attained is the Signnlhohe (4119'"), 
 the view from which is partly intercepted by wood. A few min. 
 farther is an *Inn, whence a most charming prospect is enjoyed. 
 (Thus far from Voglisegg I'/i hr.) To Gais , which lies at the 
 spectator's feet, a somewhat steep descent of "^f^ hr. Those 
 proceeding in the reverse direction will find finger-posts at doubt- 
 ful points. 
 
 Gais ( 3064') (*0 c h s and 'K rone, often crowded during the sea.<«on, 
 both situated in a larsre square near the church, R. 11(2 — 2, B. 1, 
 D. 2^U fr., A. "(sfr., whey 80 c. ppr day. Telefrraph Office at the Post-office. 
 Physician Dr. mim), with 255? inhab. flSO Rom. Cath.\ situated 
 in the midst of green meadows almost destitute of trees , is the 
 oldest and most celebrated of the .\ppeiizell whey-cure villages 
 (whey was first drunk here in 1749). 
 
 The high-road from Gais to Appenzell (3 M.) traverses green 
 meadows destitute of trees. Appenzell (2562') (flecht; Lowe), 
 much visited for the whey-cure . the capital of the Canton of 
 Tnner-Khoden , is a large village of 3fi9l inhab. (46 Prot.), on 
 the Sitter, with houses chiefly constructed of wood. It contains 
 two convents, and was formerly the country-residence of the Ab- 
 bots of St. Gall , from which fact it derives its name (Abhatis 
 cella). The Church was rebuilt in 1824 — 26; it contains 
 facsimiles of some banners and flags captured by the Appenzellers 
 in the 15th cent. The Charnel-house is of the kind described at 
 p. 47. (Diligence to St. Gall, see p. 276). Excursion to the 
 Menlixdlp (and back in 8 hrs.) see p. 282. 
 
 Visitors usually make no stay at .\ppenzell, but pass through 
 it on their way to (2'/4 M. to the S.E.) Weissbad (2690'), 
 another whey-cure estab. (R. l'/., to 6 , B. 1 , D..2 fr. 20 c, 
 8. I'/'i fr.), situated at the base of the Appenzell range. The 
 brothers Jacob , Joseph, and Johann ThiWUj and Huber are re- 
 commended as guides. Charges: to Wildkirchli (see below) 3, 
 the Sentis (p. 282) 6 , over the Holienkasten to the Rheinthal 
 (p. 280) 6 fr. 
 
 The most usual exctirsion from Weissbad is (S.) to the *Wild- 
 kirchli (4918') (1^4 hr., path somewhat intricate, guide 3 fr.),
 
 280 Route 67. STOSS. The Canton 
 
 a hermitage founded in 1656, at present closed. It is dedicated 
 to St. Michael , and consists of a grotto in a precipitous wall of 
 rock 220' high , to which a path has been made. At the foot 
 of this precipice is the *Sonne inn. On the patron-saint's day 
 (at the beginning of July) and on St. Michaels Day (29th Sept.) 
 solemn services are celebrated at Wildkirchli, and the grotto (18' 
 long, 15' wide) and the Ebenalp are visited by a large concourse. 
 The view over the Lake of Constance towards Swabia and Bavaria 
 is very striking. 
 
 A stalactite grotto, 150' long, closed on the W. t^ide by a 
 door, penetrates the limestone rock. Close to the entrance there 
 is a good rustic inn , the proprietor of which illuminates the 
 grotto by means of a torch , and opens the door , through which 
 an entirely new Alpine view is disclosed. A narrow path leads 
 from this to the (1/4 hr.) Ebenalp (5249'), at the N. extremity 
 of the ALpstein chain, rich in Alpine plants, and commanding a 
 splendid panoramic view of the Sentis , the Lake of Constance, 
 the Kamor, Altmann, and Churfir»ten. Those who wish to avoid 
 this narrow path may, where in ascending, close to the mountain, 
 the path to the 1. leads to the Wildkirchli , take an easy foot- 
 path to the r., which traverses a forest to the Ebenalp. 
 
 T h e D i r e c t P a t h f r I) in W e i s s b a d 1 t h e \' a 1 1 e y o f t h e R li i n e 
 by the Hohenkas ten (5 hrs.) leads towards theS.E. through (ij-jhr.) /i/vVV- 
 lisau (3UU1') (Krone, rustic) ; by the church the paved path must be followed, 
 past the first house, as far as a bam, where the meadows are ascended (in 
 the direction of the inn at the foot of the Kamor, wliich is visible for a 
 long distance) as far as the first group of houses, i|2 hr. ; thence straight on 
 (not by the beaten path) through the enclosure on the r. as far as the inn, 
 Cji! hr., bridle-path thus far), which affords tolerable quarters, and contains a 
 small collection of fossils. From the inn a steep ascent of 1 hr. by a good 
 path, to the summit of the Hohenkasten (5902') (Inn), which, together with 
 the neighbouring {}\\ hr. >.'.) Kamor (oh79'), slopes precipitously towards 
 the Rhine \'alley. Interesting view in one direction towards the Sentis 
 group, with its three spurs on the^s.E., which is nowhere surveyed to so 
 great advantage ; in the other direction towards the Rhine Valley, visible as 
 far as the Lake of Constance, and towards the Alps of the \ orarlberg and 
 Grisons. The E. part of the lake is also visible. Then a descent to 
 (2'J2 hrs.) Riithi (railway station, p. 283) in the Rhine Valley. The tra- 
 veller had better proceed at first to the 1. by the foot of the Kamor, in 
 order to reach the path descending from the chalets of the Kamor, which 
 soon become visible. The descent is from chalet to chalet, the path 
 disappearing altogether at places. In the wood below the last chalets, 
 the path descending to the r. is to be selected. 
 
 The more convenient route is the High-road from Gais to Alt- 
 stildten (6 M., diligence once daily in 1 hr.); first IV2 -^i- level; 
 then, from the point where the new road, winding round the 
 mountain, diverges from the old, a continual descent. The latter 
 is the shorter for pedestrians, and far preferable on account of 
 the view; it leads to the 1. by the (I/4 hr.) *Stoss (3120'), a 
 chapel (and inn) on the summit of the pass , commanding a 
 celebrated view of the Rhine Valley, the Vorarlberg, and the 
 Orisons. Here, on June 17th, 1405, 400 men of Appenzell under
 
 of Appenzell. VOGLISEGG. 07. Route. 281 
 
 Rudolf von Werdenberg signally defeated 3000 troops of the 
 Archduke Frederick and the Abbot of .St. Gall. The old road 
 rejoins the new immediately below the Stoss. 
 
 The Diligence from Appenzell to St. Gall ( twice daily in 
 2'/4 hrs., returning in 'ii/o hrs., coupe' 3, interior 2'/.) fr. ; omnibus 
 2 fr.) passes through (3 M. ) Gais (p. 279j, then (skirting the 
 Rothbach, which divides Appenzell-Au-ser from Appen/.ell-lnner- 
 Uhoden) (I'AiM.) BiiWer (^2730'), and {VI^M.) Teufen (^2734') 
 [*Hecht; Linde; Hotel des Alpes; whey-cure in allj, two pros- 
 perous manufacturing villages, the latter''very picturesquely situ- 
 ated, with a tine view of the entire chain of the Sentis ; then(;e 
 through meadows and forests to (6 M.) St. Gall (p. 35j. 
 
 From A p jt e n z e 11 to Teufen a footpath, which shortens the distance, 
 crosses the Sitter near Mettlen, and then descends the valley of the Sitter, 
 high up on the r. bank of the river, passing through Steig, Lank., and Hasten. 
 Thence at first towards the N., afterwards ><'.E. over the mountain, passing 
 through several woods, and descending into the valley of the RothOac/i. It 
 then crosses the brook and ascends to Teufen. 
 
 The direct road from Teufen to 8t. Gall (3^/4 M.J diverges from 
 the high-road near the 'llechf inn, and immediately ascends the 
 mountain to (IV2 ^) t'l© Schdfle's Eck (Inn); it then again 
 descends to (I'/i ^O '^^- Georgen, where it joins the high-road 
 to St. Gall. The summit of the mountain (10 min. W. of 
 the .Schalle's Eck) is much frequented , and derives its appel- 
 lation of *Fr61ichsegg from Herr Frolich , the proprietor of the 
 inn. It commands a line view, embracing Teufen in the fore- 
 ground, the green Alpine valley with its numerous dwellings, 
 and the Appenzell mountains, on the extreme 1. the Fiihnern, 
 the Kamor, the Ilohenkasten .about the middle of the chain, the 
 green Ebenalp below the snow, more to the r. the Altmann and 
 -Sentis with its snow-fields, far in the distance the Gliirnisch and 
 the summit of the Speer; to the W. the railway and road to Wyl, 
 extended as on a map before the spectator, and to the N. a part 
 of the Lake of Constance. 
 
 Leaving the Schiitle's P2ck , and following the ridge of the 
 mountain in an E. direction, the traveller finally ascends an 
 eminence towards a solitary pine, passing which, and issuing 
 from the forest, he attains the (^I'/i hr.j ^'Voglisegg (^3ir)0'J, 
 commanding a view of the ailjacent villages of Trogen and Spei- 
 cher ; beyond Speicher rise the gentle slopes of the Kaien (p. 2<8). 
 The prospect embraces the Lake of Constance and the beautiful 
 meadow-land of .Speicher and Trogen , a part of the Vorarlberg 
 range, and several of the Appenzell mountains ; from a spot a 
 few paces in front of the inn (*Tuube), the summit of the Mentis 
 is especially conspicuous. To St. Gall (^p. 3;")) a decent of 1 hr. 
 Path to the Freudenberg very picturesque, 1 hr. 
 
 Nearer St. Ciall, ',., hr. from the Viiglisegg, from which it is 
 visible, is tlie *Freudenberg ( 287 I 'j, another and still finer point
 
 282 Eoute 67. SENTIS. 
 
 of vie^ , also possessing a pood inn. In the foreground of the 
 view is St. Gall with its populous environs , beyond these the 
 Lake of Constance. (By the carriage - road to St. Gall 21/.2 M., 
 by the footpath V2 ^^r.) 
 
 The apcoTit of the snow-cl.-td Sentis fS^IS'), the highest mountain in 
 Appen/ell, is frequently made from Weissbad fgnide 6 fr.). The ronte 
 traverses the Schwendi (Iidi). and skirts the precipices of the Gloggeren 
 to the (3 hrs.) Mer/lisalp (48,^5') (refreshments at a chalet, histh charpes). 
 Then in 3'|2 — 4 hrs. to the S. peak of the mountain, the Sentix proper, or 
 Hohc Mes?ner. About 5 min. below the peak is a chalet, where refresh- 
 ments and quarters for the night may be procured fdear). The house under- 
 went some improvement in 18G8. Across formerly stood on the stone pyra- 
 mid, erected at the time when Napoleon united the cantons of St. Hall 
 and Appenzell under the name of the Canton d" Sentix. The view extends 
 over N.E. and E. Switzerland, embracing the Lake of Constance, Swabia 
 and Bavaria, the Tyrolese mountains, the Orisons, and the Alps of Glarus 
 and Bern. The N. peak, which is separated from the S. by the 'Blaue 
 Schnee", is named the Oi/renspitz, or Geierspitz tTTGfi'). 
 
 From the Sentis the traveller may cross the Schafhoden to (3, ascent 5 — 
 fi hrs.) Wildhaus in the Toggenburg (p. 291). The usual nmte from Weiss- 
 bad to Wildhaus (fi hrs.) leads through the Briilltobel to the Samfis-See, 
 ascends to the Frihlrn-l^ep (47fi4'). and crosses the Krayalp (6667'), 7i|2 — 
 S hrs., not sufficiently interesting to repay the fatigue; the route by the 
 Sentis (not much longer) is therefore preferable. Experienced mountaineers 
 may combine a visit to the Wildkiichli (p. 279) with the ascent of the 
 Sentis (guide necessary) by leaving the valley of the Seealpsee to the 1. 
 The path leads at the base of the Zdnsler and Schiifler across the (1 hr.) 
 Alten-Alp and the (IM2 hr.) Ziciesel-Alp, through the Oehrli, and over the 
 Musc/ielfelft (numerous fossils) ; hence either across the valley to the Wagen- 
 liicke and then by the path which ascends from Weissbad, or (1 hr. shorter) 
 across the 'Blauen Schnee' (see above) past the base of the Gyrenspitz, and 
 over the Flatten direct to the summit (altogether 6 — 7 hrs.). 
 
 68. From Rorschach to Coire. 
 
 Comp. Mapa, pp. 20, 276. 
 
 United S w i s s R a i 1 w a y . in 31(2— 41(2 hrs. Fares 9 fr. 80, 6 fr. 85, 4 fr. 
 90 c. Pomp. Tntrod. X. with regard to excursion-tickets. The Rorschach 
 station is 1(2 M. to the E. of the town (p. 37); passengers who take their 
 seats at the harbour-station should observe that by many trains carriages 
 must be changed on arriving at the principal station. The first morning- 
 train corresponds at Rorschach with the first steamboat from Friedrichs- 
 hafen and Lindau ; at Coire with the diligences for the Spliigen and the 
 Bernardino. 
 
 The Valley of the Rhine, formerly termed the Upper Rheinqau, 
 and governed till 1798 by Swiss bailiffs, like Ticino (p. 82"), 
 Thurgau, etc., presents a great variety of grand and picturesque 
 scenery. The train, after leaving Rorschach, skirts the lake for 
 a short time. Stat. Stand. Heiden fp. 2771 is seen on the 
 heights to the r. ; in the plain are meadows, fields of maize, and 
 numerous plantations of fruit-trees. On the slope is the castle 
 of Wartegg , and above it Wartensee; farther on, situated on 
 the Buchberg, the vineyards of which advance into the valley 
 of the Rhine, a glimpse is caught of the castle of Weinburg, 
 the property of the prince of Hohenzollern - Sigmaringen 
 (the beautiful park is open to visitors ; superb view); the view
 
 ALTSTADTEN. '68. Route. 283 
 
 from tho Steinerne Tisch (stone tnble") above the cnstle is ninrh 
 admired. The train traverses part of the fertile delta formed 
 by the deposits of the Rhine. The bed of the river is subject 
 to frequent chanjres, and is only navigjable for rafts. Works are 
 ill prop:ress to direct its course through a cuttins to Fu.<>i*(irh on 
 the Lake of Constance. 
 
 Stat. Rheineck flBl^'") (fferht; Krone), a villajre at the foot 
 of vineyards. fDilisrence to //giV^'n 2 fr., twice daily in I'/^^r., 
 see p. Q7R.^ At stat. St. Mnninrethen ^ much -frequented ferry 
 crosses the Rhine , wliich here forms the boundary between 
 Switzerland and the Austrian Vorarlberp; fthe Meldeqq , p. 37, 
 is ascended hence in 1 hr.^. The plain of the Rhine is stony, 
 and exposed to disastrous inundations. The raihvay skirts the 
 liill. traverses orchards and fields of maize, and ffrom Heldxherq 
 to MonMein) passes between the river and perpendicular rocks. 
 Stat. Ati, Heerhruan, Rehf^tein. 
 
 Altstadten fl-iQC) (*Drei Kimhie or Rost. R. 1. B. 1, S. 1 fr.; 
 Krone: Rahe?\, a town with 7r>75 inhab. f2797 Prot."). A road 
 leads hence over the Rnppen (^Of)l'') . an ascent of 6 M. , then 
 to Tro2;en 3 M. . and to St. Gall M. more: another road by 
 the Stoss and Oais to Appenzell fp. Q791. DM.; a very pleasant 
 footpath in 3 hrs. by the Chapel of St. Antony and 'Heiden 
 (p. 277^ to Rorschach. Near Altstadten the Sentis is seen to the 
 r. through a Rorse ; in the distance (S.) the snow-clad Scesaplana, 
 and beside it the Falknis fp. 284^. 
 
 Stat. Oberried. On the E. slope of a rocky and wooded emi- 
 nence to the r.. stands the mined tower of the castle of Blntten. 
 The hijrh-road passes to the "W. of the castle through the defile 
 of the Ilir.^rhensprung f stag's leap'"), above which rise the ruffged 
 limestone mountains of the Krirnor and Hohenknsten fp. 2^0"). 
 
 Stat. Ri'ithi fpath over the ITohenkasten to WeinKbad , see 
 p. 280"). The lofty wooded rock, rising above the little town of 
 Senmr(dd fPost or Krone"), is termed the Kanzel fpulpit'). Stat. 
 Salefz fpleasant walk hei'.ce by Sax and the Sa.rer Ltirke. passing 
 the Fahlen and Samtis lakes, in hrs. to Weissbad. p. 270^; 
 then Haaf;, where the road from the Togfjenhiira to Feldkirch is 
 crossed fp. 292^. Above stat. Bnchs f*Sonne ; *IIt»rnli") rises the 
 conspicuous castle of Werdenherf/ . formerly the residence of the 
 celebrated count of that name. 
 
 On a height, on the opposite bank of the Rhine, is Vadw:, 
 with a castle, the capital of the principality of Liechtenstein, at 
 the foot of the Drei Schwentern f 'three sisters'), the mountains 
 which became visible at .Mtstadten. 
 
 Above stat. Sevelen rises the old turreted castle of Wartmt. 
 Near stat. Trubharh the massive rocks of the Schollberg approach 
 so near the Rhine tint it has been necessary to blast a passage 
 for the road and the railway. Opposite, on the r. bank of the
 
 284 Route 68. MAYENFELD. 
 
 Rhine, on an eminence, are the extensive ruins of the castle of 
 Guttenberg, where the ascent of the Luziensteig begins. 
 
 At Sargans iHoteL Thoma, R. 1—2, D. 2^0 fr. J the Wesen 
 (GlarnsJ and Ziirich line diverges to the N.W. (p. 45). By some 
 trains carriages must be changed. The Rhine, which appears formerly 
 to have discharged itself to the E. into the Lake of Wallenstadt, 
 has worn a broad passage through the rocks, and takes a N. di- 
 rection. The scenery becomes grander and more picturesque ; to 
 the N.W. the long rugged chain of the Churfirsten (p. 43j be- 
 comes visible, to theE. the grey pyramid of thti Falknis (jiee belowj. 
 
 Kagatz, see p. 28;'). On the r. a cascade issues from a cleft 
 in the rock, near which are the ruins of the castle of Freuden- 
 berg. Opposite , on the r. bank of the Rhine , on the abrupt 
 summit of the ."^t. Luzienberg or Flascherberg (^3753'), are seen 
 some buildings connected with the fortilication of the pass (see 
 below) . 
 
 Below the confluence of the Tamina the train crosses the 
 Rhine by a covered wooden bridge (^foot-passengers cross on the 
 1. side) and stops at Mayenfeld (^1755') (AUe Post), an ancient 
 and thriving little town with 1299 inhab. The old tower, erected 
 in the 4th cent, by the Roman Emperor Constantins as a de- 
 fence against the invasions of the barbarians, is now fitted up as 
 a restaurant, frequented by visitors from Ragatz. Tlie summit 
 commands a fine view. The old castle of the Counts of Toggen- 
 burg, was, till 1795, the residence of the bailiffs of the Orisons. 
 On the hill to the r. is the ancient abbey of Pfatlers. 
 
 The St. Luziensteig (238o')-, a fortilied defile between the Fliisc/ierberg 
 (3104') and tlie Falknis (8338'), through which the road to Naduz and Feld- 
 kirch leads, may be attained hence in 1 hr. (Inn, good wine). The highest 
 block-house. IIJ2 hr. farther, commands a beautiful prospect. 
 
 On the slope of the hill . near the confluence of the Land- 
 quart and the Rhine, is situated the village of Malnns (^1831') 
 (Kreuz) with the castle of Bodmer, the property of the l>e Salis 
 family, and for many years the residence of the poet Oaudenz de 
 8alis-Seewis (^d. 1834). Here is grown the Kompleter, the most 
 esteemed wine in the valley. 
 
 The bridge (^the Lower ZoLl or Tardis-Briicke), by which the 
 high road crosses from the 1. to the r. bank of the Rhine, is the 
 boundary between the cantons of Ht. Gall and the Orisons. Above 
 this bridge the Landquart, emerging from a narrow ravine, falls 
 into the Rhine, and is crossed by the line near the station of the 
 same jiame (Pnittigau route, see R. SO). On the r. bank, the 
 barren Grauhbrner (^8764', see p. 287) rise in the background. 
 
 The district between Mayenfeld and Coire is remarkable for 
 its fertility; its central point is stat. Zizers (^1863') (Krone), 
 an ancient borough, near which is MoUndra, a beautiful summer- 
 residence and farm of the Bishop of Coire. It has often suttered 
 from inundations , and masses of stone brought by the torrents
 
 KAGATZ. 6'.9. Route. 285 
 
 ( 'Riifenen') from tJie innuntaiiis, which occasionally even destroy 
 the road after heavy rains. The damage caused by the inun- 
 dation of the autumn of 1808 is everywhere perceived. On the 
 r. are the snowy heijrhts of the Calanda (9213'), which may be 
 ascended in 7 — S hrs. from Coire : quarters for the night in a 
 chalet (Obere Maiensnss) , 2 hrs. from the summit. On the 
 wooded slopes of the 1. bank of the Khine are the ruined castles 
 of Krottenstein, Liechtenstein .^ Haldenstein, etc. When the palace 
 of Liechtenstein was erected at Vienna in the last century, the 
 prince caused the stone from the ruined castle of his ancestors 
 to be employed for the foundation of the new edifice. 
 Coire (Germ. Chur). see p. 288. 
 
 69. Ragatz and Pfaffers. 
 
 Hotels. Quellcnhof, a new anrl spaciuus hotel and pension, and 
 Hof Ragatz, belonfiing to the same proprietor, R. 3— 4. B. li|j, D- 4, L. 
 and A. 1 fr. ; T a m i n a - H o t e 1 , less expensive ; H o t e 1 C a 1 a n d a. — 
 •'Schaflc, "Krone, second cl. ; 'Hotel and Pension Anderes, 
 R. I'l-j, B. 1 fr.. D. 3 fr. ; Hager; Zvim Friedthal. well spoken of; 
 Ochs. Bath-house and pump-room recently erected. — Near the station; 
 Sch wei z erh o f , "Ro s e n ga r t en , Griitli. — Cafe Felsenkel- 
 ler. ' 1 31. from the town, on the wav to the Freudenberg. 
 
 Telegraph Office at the Post-office." 
 
 Carriag'es. On arriving at the station small one-horse carriages, ticketed 
 'Bad Plall'ers". are in waiting; fare to the baths for vice versa) I'ja fr. 
 for each persim. — Omnibus from the station to the hotels in Ragatz 112 fr. 
 — One-liorsc carr. from Ragatz to PfalTcrs, with halt of 2 hrs., for 1 — 
 ? pers. 7. 3 — 4 pors. 10 fr. and fee. — In the afternoon an omnibus generallv 
 runs to Fiderix, fp. 315). 
 
 Ragatz (17090. a village with 1825 inhab. (294 Prot."), situ- 
 ated on the impetuous Tamlna, which falls into the Rhine lower 
 down fl650'). contains the former residence of the Abbots of the 
 monastery of Pfaffers, converted in 1840 into an hotel (the 'Hof 
 Ragatz'l and bath-establishment, to which the water is conveyed 
 from Pfaffers by means of a conduit. 2V2 M- i" length. 
 Ragatz has become a very favourite watering-place of late years, 
 and is annually visited by no fewer than 50,000 persons. The 
 town, too, is rapidly extending. Walks and excursions, see p. 287. 
 On Sept. 27th. 1868. the Rhine and Tamina burst through the 
 railway-ombnnkment . forming a gap upwards of 100' in width, 
 and destroying a large portion of the village. 
 
 In the Cht/rchyard, on the E. wall, is the monument of the 
 philosopher Schelliny (d. at Ragatz in 1854~), erected by Maxi- 
 milian II., King of Bavaria. At the last houses (1 M.) on the 
 road from the cemetery to Sargans, a path ascends to the 1. 
 through the vineyards to (10 min.l the ruins of the castle of 
 Freudenben;, whence the view extends to the 1. as far as Sargans, 
 to the r. as far as the Prattigau : in returning, the path along 
 the hills, between the houses and gardens, may be taken.
 
 286 Route 09. PFAFFERS. 
 
 '^Bad Pfaffers, o'iO' above Ragatz, is one of the most re- 
 markable spots ill Switzerland. A narrow carriage-road in good 
 repair and of easy ascent , leads between sombre precipitous 
 limestone rocks, oUO to 8UU' high, from Kagatz to (^'i'/o M.J Bad 
 Pfaffers. The gorge is so narrow , that the impetuous Tainina 
 leaves little space for the road. Numerous landslips testify to 
 the destructiveness of the inundation of 1868. [Near another 
 brook, which makes a precipitous descent from a height on the 
 r., is a linger-post, indicating the path to the I. to the Village of 
 Pfatters {J/o hr.j. Tlie Tamina is crossed by a wooden bridge, 
 and tiie ascent of the perpendicular rock on the r. bank is made 
 by a rugged zigzag path. The way from the Baths to the village 
 over the 'Beschluss (^p. 287j is preferable.] 
 
 The bath-house, constructed in 17U4, between walls of rock 
 600' high, enjoys sunshine in the height of summer from 10 till 
 4 o'clock only. Externally it has a monastic and somewhat un- 
 inviting appearance, but the accommodation is excellent. Table 
 d'hote at 12 o'clock 2'/2, at 7. 30 p. m. i'Z-i fr., B. 1, K. from 
 b to 20 fr. per week (^l'/> fr. per day for occasional visitorsj, 
 billiard and reading rooms, drawing-room for ladies, very pleasant 
 baths (^1 fr.j The water (^07 — lOU*^ Fahr.J is continually renewed 
 in the spacious baths, wliich are lined with white tiles. The 
 establishment belongs to the government of .-^t. Gall, by whom it 
 is let. These baths are frequented principally by the middle 
 <-lasses , and by invalids who wish to take the waters at their 
 source, or desire greater retirement than Ragatz affords. 
 
 The abundant hot springs (^lOO^J, <;lear as crystal, have neither 
 taste nor smell, and are similar in their constituents to those of 
 Crastein and Wildbad. They rise '/4 M. from the bath-house in 
 a j^iOviKy ** Gorye , from 20' to 40' wide, through which the 
 Tamina dashes its foaming waters. The wooden gallery which 
 leads to the springs re^ts securely on the ^olid rock or on masonry. 
 This path, 60U yds. long, and 30' to 40' above the impetuous 
 waters of the brook, passes between lofty, overhanging walls of 
 black and dripping rock , on the r. bank of the Tamina , and 
 leads to the vaulted chamber (^98' long) of the new spring (^to 
 the 1. of the oldj, dating, according to the inscription, from 
 'Oct. 2nd, i860'. The temperature in this cavern is so high as 
 to preclude a stay of more than a few seconds. Midway between 
 the baths and the springs , a wooden bridge over the Tamina 
 leads to a spacious grotto , excavated in the rocks on the other 
 side , where an abbot of Pfaflers contemplated erecting a chapel 
 in 1630. Tickets of adm. to the springs and the gorge must be 
 procured at the bath-house (i fr. each person , which includes 
 the services of a guide). The road from Ragatz to the Baths 
 passes through wild and most picturesque scenery. There is 
 perhaps no accessible opot among the Alps which produces so
 
 PFAFFERS. 09. Route. 287 
 
 grand and impressive an ellect as the Gorge of Bad Pfaflers, 
 except perhaps the Gorge otTrient(p. 'iU'ij, the rocks of which, 
 however, are less bold and abrupt. — The excursion from stat. 
 liagatz to the springs and back can easily be accomplished on 
 foot in 'ii/o — 8 iirs. 
 
 The Footpath from thf Baths to the Village of Pfaflers 
 (l'/4 hr.j ascends by windings on the 1. bank of the Tamina; 
 in 10 min. another path diverges to the 1.; the gorge of the 
 Tamina (^f) min.) is crossed by a natural bridge {t\m 'lie- 
 sclduss, situated inmiediately above the springsj, and a path cut 
 into steps, very rugged and slippery in rainy weather, des«:ends 
 in '20 min. to a meadow, where it divides: to the r. to Vattis 
 (^see below), to the 1. to the village of Pfaflers. In 10 min. a 
 road is attained which may again be quitted (^1/2 M.j by a path 
 to the r. , which in '/4 hr. again unites with the road, opposite 
 the tirst houses of the villaj^e. 
 
 The Village of Pfafiers ('26^0') (*Taube; Adler) is situated 
 un a moimtain, l'/2 M. to the S. of Kagatz. The Benedictine 
 Abbey, formerly rich and powerful , was suppres&ed in I801S by 
 the ftt. Gall government, on account of internal dissensions. The 
 abbey-buildings, erected in iOGf), have been converted into a 
 lunatic asylum (St. Finninsbery) (^'2710'). On the descent to 
 Kagatz a tine view is obtained, especially from the Taborberg 
 (^1/4 hr.) over the valley of the Rhine, beyond which is the 
 Falknis; to the N.W. rise the Churtir.-ten (p. 43j; lower down 
 are seen the ruins of tiie castle of W artenstein ., and adjacent to 
 them, to the r., the chapel of St. George. 
 
 Excursions. Kagatz lurms good head-quarters for those who desire 
 to explore the picturesque mountain scenery in the neighhourhood (Franz 
 Uort is a good guide). The following excursions of 8— lU hrs. are recom- 
 mended : Mutjeitjeld, see p. 284 ; the Prddigaii and Davos (K. bU) ; Flaxc/ierberg 
 and the little fortress of Luziensteig between the Fltischerberg and the Falk- 
 uiss (p. 2b4) ^ the Cliui-Jiraten (p. 4o)i the valley of Wtisstaiinen (p. 45) with 
 the Kieseten Grat and the Rainin (p. iJCKJ) ; the Kulfeusev-Thal (p. 4uj ; the 
 Urauhonier (b34i'j, the ascent of which (b hrs., fatiguingjis but rarely made ; 
 from their summit the l.ake of Constance is visible beyond the Churlirsten. 
 
 Piz Alun (oUOy'l. - hrs. above the village of IMiiliers, commands an ex- 
 tensive view of a great portion of the valley of the Khiue. From FfalVers 
 through the wood to the pastures of the little village 1 hr., St. Margaietheit 
 '^\\ hr., where a guide should be engaged. Ascent easy. 
 
 Two paths lead from liagatz to Jieic/ienau (7 — 8 hrs.) by the val- 
 ley of the Tamina ; the one passes by Bad I'fciffers, Valeits, Vason (3l41' ), 
 and Vattis, on the W. declivity of the mountain, a difficult and unpleasant 
 path after rain; the other (sh(»iter and better) passes by the Village of 
 I'fiiffers, and Jiakol Vadiira (3176'), skirting the long E. side of the Vulaiida 
 (.p. 285). Ihe two paths unite not far from Vattis (3l07') (Gemsli, a good 
 country inn). Here the path leaves the Tamina, a stream issuing from the 
 Kalfeuser-'llial to the \V.. crosses the (Jiirbs-Bach three times, and generally 
 follows the E. side of the valley. The chalets of the upper valley are 
 collectively called Ktiiiktls. When the sumndt of the Kinikels, or t'oppa 
 Pass (445b') is attained, the traveller must n(jt pursue a straight direction, 
 but bear to the 1., to the corner of the pine-forest, and enter the delile of 
 La t'oppa (.5 nun. to the r. of the path is a superb view over the valley of
 
 288 Route 70. COIRE. 
 
 the RliineJ ; then a rugged and stony descent to Tamiiis (p. 307) and Reichenau \ 
 (p. 352), a post-station above Coire. In spring this journey is rendered 
 dangerous by avalanches. In March, 1799, a French brigade, commanded by 
 General Demont. traversed this pass and defeated the Austrians at Tamins. 
 
 70, Coire. 
 
 Germ. Chur, Ital. Coira, Roman. Quoira or Cuera. 
 
 Hote?s. -Steinbock, with Cafe on the ground-tloor, R. 2i|-i, 1). at 
 4 o'clock 4, S. 2iJ2 fr. ; *Freieck and Weisses Kreuz united, R. l'|2, 
 D. 2i|2, S. lija, A. '(•-'fr-; *Lukmanier, the nearest to the station, R. 2. 
 L. ij-.., B. liJ4, A. 3|4 fr., omnibus 50, luggage 25 c. — -Stern, less ex- 
 pensive; Rother Lowe; Sonne, of the 2nd class, moderate. — Beer 
 at the Restaurant de la Poste, at the Lowenhof, near the 
 market, and at the Brewery, ij-j M. from the town, on the road to 
 Reichenau. Cafe C a land a, opposite the post-office. 
 
 Telegraph Office adjoining the new Post-office. 
 
 Carriages, one-horse to Thusis 12 fr. and 2 fr. fee, two-horse 25 fr. there 
 and back. The vehicles of /. C. Ktioni are recommended. 
 
 Wines. ValtelUna (red , see p. 2Ai) , abundant and inexpensive (80 c. 
 — liJ2 fr. per bottle) , owing to the excellence of recent vintages. Kom- 
 pleler, produced near Malans (p. 284) in the valley of the Rhine, near 
 the lower Zollbriicke, very good but expensive. The ' Landwein , or 
 wine of the country , of which the best description is the Herrschdftler^ 
 is a good red wine, little inferior to that of the Valtellina. These wines 
 may be tested at a restaurant to the 1. in the Episcopal Court, or 'Zu den 
 Rebleuten", by the Church of St. Martin. — Cigars at Hitz's, Poststrasse. 
 
 Attractions. The traveller whose time is limited should at least 
 contrive to visit the Cathedral of St. Lucius, and the walks on the Rosenhiigel 
 (Restaurant) 'js M. from the town-gate, to the 1. of the Julier road, aftbrding 
 the finest view of the town, the valley of the Rhine, and the mountains. 
 
 The territory of the Canton of the Gxi&on^ (Graubiinden), of which Coire 
 is the capital, was under the sway of the Dukes of Swabia until 1268; it 
 then became an independent province of the Germanic Empire and the 
 residence of many of the nobility, the Bishop of Coire, the Abbots of Dis- 
 sentis and Pfallers, the Counts of Montfort, Werdenberg, Matsch, the Ba- 
 rons of Vatz, Rhaziins. Belmont, Aspermont, etc., whose ruined castles are 
 still seen on the heights. The sanguinary feuds in which these nobles were 
 continually engaged, and their oppressive treatment of their vassals were a 
 source of misery to the inhabitants of the district. 
 
 With a view to remedy their grievances, the people banded together 
 on several occasions, and formed in 1396 the 'League of the House of 
 God' (Bund des Gotteshauses), of which the church of Coire was at the 
 head ; in 1424 the 'Upper' or 'Grey League' (Obere or Graue Bund) was 
 formed, and between 1428 and 1436 the 'League of the 10 Jurisdic- 
 tions' (Bund der 10 Gerichte) ( Lia da Ca [Casa] Z)e, Lia Grisc/ia., Lia 
 deltas desch dreituras). These coalitions gave rise to the T h ree Leagues 
 (Biinde) of Upper Rheetia, which established themselves in 1471. The 
 two first allied themselves the same year with the Helvetic Confederation. 
 Since 1803 the Grisons have formed a Swiss Canton, and one of the most 
 extensive (2736 sq. M., embracing more than 'jeth of the entire Swiss 
 territory; 91,177 inhab.) ; the canton is remarkable for the variety of its 
 scenery, climate, productions, and language, as well as for its national pe- 
 culiarities and political constitution. The country consists of a complete 
 network of mountains, about 150 valleys, and a great number of snow-clad 
 peaks. Barren rocks are surrounded by luxuriant cultivation ; wild deserts, 
 where winter reigns during three-fourths of the year, lie amidst forests of 
 chestnuts, under the deep blue sky of Italy. 
 
 This Canton was till 1848 divided into 26 small and almost en- 
 tirely independent republics, termed Hoch-Gerichte (jurisdictions), which
 
 DaTnj.<fta dt, EOVa^ner.
 
 ^■r^^f" 
 
 
 .'J aiiotama j\oni ilio .' o i no xci 
 
 lal Mcav l^c^mall. 
 
 Dami.Oadl tlWa^ci
 
 COIRE. 70. Route. 289 
 
 were abolished by the new constitution. Tlie population is composed of three- 
 fifths Prot. and two-fifths Rom. Cath. ; one-third is f)f the (German, two- 
 thirds of the Romansch race. The latter speak a language peculiar to them- 
 selves, with two distinct dialects : the Ladin in the Engadine, the Albula, 
 and Miinster valleys (probably similar to the 'Latin' of the Roman peasant.s 
 mentioned by Livy) , and the Romansch or Romani, in the valleys of Dis- 
 sentis and Ilanz, in the Oberhalbstein, Schams, etc. The following passage 
 from Psalm XCVI., ver. 2, 3, may serve as a specimen of the language : '•Chante 
 al Sefjner, celebre sieu »om, annunze ofjni di sieu saliid. Reqninte traunler 
 Us povels sia gloria, trauntev tuottas naziuns sias ovras miiravigliusas'. (Sing 
 unto the Lord, bless his name, show forth his salvation from day to day. 
 Declare his glory among the heathen, his wonders among all people.) Rhine 
 signifies in Romansch 'running water". — This dialect is generally spoken 
 amongst the people, but the German tongue is spreading every day, and i.s 
 taught in the schools so successfully that the younger members of the com- 
 munity speak it more correctly than the inhabitants of German Switzerland. 
 Under the rule of the Swabian princes all the country was Romansch. In 
 the Tyrol, where Ladin was formerly general, it is now confined to the two 
 valleys of Groden and Enneberg. The Romansch literature formerly com- 
 prised about 100 works, for the most part of a religious character. Of late 
 years it has been increased by a considerable number of educational works 
 (grammar and dictionary by Conrad, Carisch, etc.). The Ortografia et Orto'epia 
 of Palioppi has furnished the foundations for a scientific grammar of the 
 language. In the valleys S. of the Alps, Italian is the prevailing tongue. 
 
 Coire (2208'). capital of the Canton of the Grisons, the Curia 
 Rhaetorum of the Romans in the decline of the empire , and 
 since the 4th cent, the seat of a Bishop , is picturesquely situ- 
 ated on the banks of the river Plessur, which falls into the Rhine 
 about IV2 M. to the W. of the town. Pop. 7552, of whom 
 5625 are Prot. in the lower town, and about 1919 Rom. Cath., 
 most of whom reside within the precincts of the Episcopal 
 Court, which towers above the town and forms the most inter- 
 esting portion of it. Here is situated the episcopal *Cathedral 
 of St. Lucius, part of which dates as far back as the 8th cent, 
 (sacristan 1 fr.) 
 
 The Portal of the entrance-court is very ancient; the columns rest on 
 lions, at the top is also a lion (emblematical of Christ the Lion of Judah, 
 the guardian of the sanctuary: Ezek. 1, 10, Genesis 49, 9, Rev. 5, 5); 
 on the columns are the Apostles (the Lombard churches are frequently 
 decorated in the same style). — The Interior of the church is worthy of 
 careful inspection on account of its antiquity : all the capitals are very 
 curious. S o u t h Aisle: sarcophagus of Bishop Ortlieb de Braiidis (d. 1491) 
 in Verona marble; altar-piece, a 3Iadonna by Stumm, a pupil of Rubens; 
 tomb of Count de Buol-Schauen stein (d. 1797), and opposite, that of his son 
 (d. 1833). South Transept: altar-piece, the upper part, Herodias by 
 Rubens ; in the centre a Madonna by the elder Ilollwin. Choir: 'High-altar, 
 beautifully carved by Jacob Rosch' (\.X^\.). Stalls and a tabernacle of the 
 I4th cent. On the altar in front of the crypt is a silver crucifix, with 
 gold-plating (»f the 12th cent. The Crypt contains a short and thick 
 column dating from the earliest period of the Christian era ; the pillars with 
 the lions are of the 5th cent. The Rtunan mosaic was discovered during 
 the construction of the Cantonal school. — Xorth Aisle: at the altar, 
 adjacent to the choir, is a casket of relics of the 8th cent. ; at the second 
 altar, 'Christ bearing the Cross', by Diirer. The Treasury contains 
 numerous and valuable relics. 
 
 In front of the Cathedral is a handsome modern Gothic Foun- 
 tain, with statues of St. Lucius, St. Nicholas, St. Mary, and 
 St. Francis. 
 
 B.iiDKKEK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 19
 
 290 Route 70. COIRE. 
 
 The Episcopal Palace, near the clnircli. is also very ancient. 
 The Chapel, one of the earliest Christian editires in existence, is 
 within the walls of the ancient Roman tower Marsoel ('Mars in ocu- 
 lis'), which communicates with the palace. This tower and another 
 named Spinoel (^Spina in oculis ) form the N. angles of the Court. 
 An ancient tower to the N.W., as well as the adjacent wall, seem 
 also to be of Roman origin. — The names of these towers imply 
 that the Rhaetians were kept in subjection by the threats of their 
 Roman conquerors. 
 
 Behind the cathedral is the Convent of St. Lucius, converted 
 into a seminary, and the Cantonal School (iov both confes.sions). 
 Beautiful view of the valley of the Rhine and a part of the Ca- 
 landa from the (^/^ hr.) Chapel of St. Lucius, situated on a lofty 
 precipice to the E. , peeping out from the midst of the bushes. 
 
 The town itself contains little to detain the traveller; the 
 Church of St. Martin , the Government Buildings , the Hotel de 
 Ville, and the Hospital founded by Father Theodosius, Superior 
 of the Capuchins, are the principal edifices. Three windows of 
 the Council -chamber in the Town Hall are of stained glass of 
 the i6th cent. The Cabinet of Nat. Hist, is not devoid of interest. 
 
 Coire owes its prosperity and busy appearance to its position 
 on the chief routes from W. Germany and E. Switzerland to Italy. 
 
 Points of View in the Environs: Promenades of the Rose/i- 
 hiigel, mentioned p. 288. — The MiUenberg, to the X. E. above the town, 
 is ascended by a good, but steep footpath in 2 hrs. ; view to the W. over 
 the entire valley of the Vorder-Rhein as far as Dissentis , and down the 
 Rhine to Jenins, near Mayenfeld. — Bad Pascinigg (p. 322) is 4ii'.;M. from 
 Coire, in the valley of the Plessur. — The Spontiskopfe (6361') (4 hrs.), a 
 prolongation of the chain running S. W. from Coire towards the Schyn, 
 parallel with the Domleschg, opposite Felsberg ; the valley of Schanfigg is 
 seen as far as Peist, and a portion of the Vorder-Rhein Valley. — The 
 "Staetzerhorn (8i58') , highest point of this range, farther S. , see p. 322. 
 — The Calanda , see p. 285. — The following excursion of 2 — 3 days is 
 recommended : in the afternoon bv Malix to Parpan 3 hrs. : the next morn- 
 ing in 2>j2— 3 hrs. to the Staetzerhorn (p. 322) , descent to Thusis 6 hrs. •, 
 to the Via Mala, and back to Reichenau ; in the afternoon by diligence 
 to Coire. 
 
 71. From Wyl through the Toggenburg to Haag 
 in the Valley of the Rhine. 
 
 Comp. Map. p. 276. 
 
 Railway from Wyl to Ebnat in 1 hr. 5 min. ; fares 2 fr. 75, 
 1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 40 c. — From Ebnat to Haag 22>|2 M. , by diligence in 
 4 hrs., starting at 8. 40 a. m. — Diligence several times daily to "Nesslau in 
 1 hr. , and to Wildhaus in 3',4 hrs. — From Haag to Feldkirch in 
 Jifi hr. 
 
 Wyl, a station on the Winterthur and St. Gall railway , see 
 p. 35. The line traverses the Toggenburg , the flourishing and 
 populous valley of the Thur. 
 
 \Vhen the Counts of Toggenburg became extinct (1436), the County 
 was purchased by the Abbots of St. Gall , who at the same time secured
 
 WILDHAUS. 77. Route. 291 
 
 to the inhabitants thuir ancient rifihts and iirivile^es. In the course of 
 centuries, however, a great portion ot the [jupuhdion liaviii" embraced 
 Protestantism, the abbots violated their contract, which resulted in their 
 expulsion at the commencement of the 18th cent. This gave rise to the 
 W ar o f Togge nb u r g, a violent feud in which the Rom. Oath, cantons 
 took up arms in the cause of St. Oall, and the Protestant in defence of the 
 Toggenburgers. Upwards of I5O,(JU0 men were thus gradually brought 
 into the field, whilst in the distance France and Austria on one side, and 
 England, Prussia, and Holland on the other, manifested the warmest sym- 
 patliy with the belligerents. On the defeat (July, ITl'ij of the Rom. Cath. 
 troops by those of Bern and Ziirich at Villmergen in the Aargau , a gen- 
 eral peace was concluded at Aarau , which secured to the inhabitants of 
 tlie Toggenburg the full enjoyment of their ancient liberties, though they 
 were still to belong to the Canton of St. C>all. The town ot Wyl suil'ered 
 greatly on this occasion, but was stoutly defended by its inhabiluuts 
 under the brave general Felber against 10,()()U of the troops of Zurich 
 and Bern. 
 
 Opposite Luti.iburi/ the line crosses the Geyifenloch Ity means 
 ol' a viailuct 170 yds. in length, ami 191 It. in height. 
 
 Lichtensteig {* Krone j, a pleasant- looking town on a rocky 
 height, coninianJed by a loftily situated new church. To the 1. 
 are the ruins of Neu-Toggenbury. 
 
 Wattwyl (Ross; Toggenburg), a charming Swiss village. On 
 an eminence to the r. is the monastery of St. Maria der Engeln, 
 above it the ruined castle of Yberg. Kappei, entirely burned 
 down in 1853, has since been re-erected in a superior style. 
 
 Ebnat (*Krone; Sonne) is at present the terminus of tiie 
 railway. Diligences hence to Nesslau, Wildhaus. and Haag. see 
 above. 
 
 The road continues to traverse the fertile and industrious 
 valley of the Thur, passing Krummenau , where the Thur is 
 crossed by the •Sprung', a natur^ bridge of rock, and .Yea St. 
 Johann (Schaflej, with the buildings of a suppressed Abbey. 
 
 41/2 M. Nesslau (Krone; Traube) is next reached, whence 
 the Speer (^p. 43 J may be ascended by the Alp ini Land in 4 
 hrs. (descent to Wesen on the Wallensee 3 hrs.}. The scenery 
 now becomes wilder and less attractive. 
 
 From Ularkeiibach , l')-2 M. from Alt St. Johann, a rugged but pic- 
 turesque footpath leads in X^l^ lirs. to Amden (p. 44), and thence in 
 I'jj hr. to }yeeseti (p. 43). View, during the ascent, of the Sentis chain; 
 on the summit (5482') the traveller faces the Glarnisch ; the Sentis is iu 
 the rear, to the 1. are the Churlirsten, to the r. the Speer group. 
 
 Ait St. Johann (^*Rossli , beyond the bridge) , to the S. the 
 Churlirsten (p. 43), to the N. the snow-dad Sentis (_p. 28'2). 
 
 9"V4 M. Wildhaus (^3613') (Hirsch; Sonne), the next village, 
 3 M. farther , was the birthplace of the reformer Zwingli. The 
 wooden house in which he was born, Jan. 1st, 1484, blackened 
 with age, is passed before the village is entered. Wildhaus be- 
 longed to Rhaetia till 1310, and was the last place in tlie district 
 where the Roinansch language was spoken (p. 289). The Rom. 
 Cath. Church is so situated that the water from the roof descends 
 on one side to the Thur. on the other to the Rhine. Beyond the 
 
 19*
 
 292 Route 72. NAFELS. 
 
 village, which lies at the foot of the Schnfherg . a tine view is 
 obtained of the seven peaks of the Churfirsten (p. 43)-, the pros- 
 pect from the Semmerikopf (4266'), in the vicinity, is still more 
 extensive. Appenzell (p. 279) is about 8, Wallenstadt (p. 45) 6, 
 Werdenberg (see below) 3 hrs. distant from Wildhaus. The roacl 
 descends by windings to the valley of the Rhine, to Gams (Schafle), 
 and then in a straight direction to the rail. stat. of 
 
 8'/4 M. Haag (p. 283) (ferry to Feldkirch , diligence see 
 p. 350). Another road to the r. leads by Grabs and Werdenberg 
 to Stat. Buchs (p. 283). 
 
 72. From Wesen to the Baths of Stachelberg. 
 Glarus. 
 
 Railway from Wesen to Glarus in ijv hr. (1 fr. 30 c. , 90 c. , 65 c). 
 Diligence from Glarus to Linththal twice dailv in 2 hrs.. fare 2 fr. 80 c. •, 
 to Stachelberg 2 fr. 20 c. 
 
 The Canton of Glarus consists of the two extensive Alpine valleys of 
 the Lint/i and the Sernf, from which numerous smaller valleys diverge. 
 The inhahitants (33.460; 5S66 Rom. Cath.) are principally occupi-d in 
 manufactures , the breeding of cattle , and cheese-making. The green 
 cheese , knf)wn as Schabziger , or 'scraping cheese' , from the manner 
 in which it is used, is held in much repute. The green colour and aro- 
 matic flavour which are so esteemed are due to the admixture of melilot, 
 or blue pansy ( Tri folium melilotvs ccerulea), with the curds, in the pro- 
 portion of 3 to 100 lbs. The cheese must be kept for a year, before it is 
 lit for exportation ; the peculiar odour which proceeds from it is perceptible 
 in most of the villages. 
 
 The line diverges to the r. from the Coire railway after the 
 Linth Canal is crossed. The first station 
 
 Nafels (Hirsch; Schwert), at the N. base of the Wiggis, is, with 
 Ober-L'rnen which lies to the N., the only Rom. Cath. village in 
 the canton , and possesses a Capuchin monastery, the poverty of 
 which alone has exempted it from suppression. The church is the 
 finest in the canton. On April 9th. 1388. the canton shook off 
 the Austrian yoke. In the Rautifelder , where eleven ditferent 
 battles took place, the eleven commemorative stones erected on 
 the occasion, bearing the date 1388, are still standing. On the 
 second Thursday of April the inhabitants flock to Nafels to cele- 
 brate the anniversary of their emancipation. On the opposite 
 bank of the Escher-Canal , which commences here, and conducts 
 the waters of the Linth into the Wallensee (p. 42), lies 
 
 Mollis (1469'J (*Bar , good head-quarters for excursions to 
 the Linththal, Klonthal, and especially the 8. bank of the Wallen- 
 see : comp. p. 45). The organ-loft in the church bears an 
 inscription commemorative of the battle of Nafels. 
 
 Nettstall (St. Fridolin), a large village on the rocky slope of 
 the Pidutisjiitz (7497'). the highest point of the Wiggis (p. 304), 
 and at the W. base of the Fronalp-Stock (6978'), is frequently 
 endangered in spring by avalanches. Carriage-road to the Klon- 
 thal, see p. 305.
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ^^.'" .4. 7^ 
 
 (^'
 
 GLARUS. in. Route. 293 
 
 Glarus (1490'), Fr. GlarU l aiainer Jiof, at the Stat., R. 2'|.i, 
 B. li|2, A. 1 fr. ; 'It a 1)6, opposite the post-(jtTice, moderate; Drei Eid- 
 g e n o s s e n ; R a i 1. R e s t a a r a n t •, Restaurant on the ' lierfjli\ a line 
 point of view, 1(4 hr. S. W. of tlie town ; Telegr. Office near the post-oflice. 
 — (UirriajTcs uiav be hired of lleinr. Voegeli : tf) Stachelberg one-horse 11, 
 twolua-se ly fr.", there and hack 13'!,j or 22 fr. ; to Elm (p. 305), Muhle- 
 liorn (p. 44) or the Todi Hotel (p. 294) one-horse 17 , two horse 28 fr. ; to 
 the Klonthal, p. 304, for 1 pers. 13, lor each additional i)ers. 2'|a fr. more 
 (incl. fee). Return carriages from tin- Liiiththal ai-e frequently to be found 
 at the railway station at Glarus , and may be engaged at two-thirds of 
 the above charges. — Guides for glacier expeditirms , see p. 294), 
 tlie capital of the canton, with 5017 inhab. , is situated at the 
 N.P>. base of the precipitous and imposing Vorder-Glnrnisch (7648'J, 
 at the W. base of the Schilt (TnOO'), and at the S.E. base of 
 the \Vi(/(/is (7494-'), the barren, grey stinunits of which form a 
 striking contrast to the fresh green of tlie valley. The f/awx- 
 .slnck ( 10,3r)4') forms the background to the S. ; to the 1. the 
 Karpfstoc.k (91(S0'j. The town possesses considerable manufactories 
 (cotton-printing, dyeing, etc.). In 1801, during the prevalence of 
 the Fohn (S. wind), the greater part of the town was reduced to 
 ashes. The new Gothic church is employed both as a Rom. Cath. and 
 Prot. place of worship. The reformer Zwingli officiated as pastor, 
 from IfiOB to loKi. at the old church, the site of which is now- 
 occupied by the courts of judicature. The grass-plats in front of 
 these buildings were formerly the burial-grounds. On the oppo- 
 site bank of the Linth, almost contiguous to Glarus, lies the 
 considerable manufacturing village of Ennenda. 
 
 The Schilt (7503') may be ascended from Glarus in 4 hrs. Crossing 
 the bridge and ascending through the wood, the patli then traverses the 
 meadow.s to the r. A guide should l)e engaged at the (2 lirs.) Heiiboden 
 chalet. Beautiful panorama from the summit, especially of the wild 
 Miirtschenstock, the Tiidi group, and Gliirnisch. 
 
 From Glarus through the Klonthal and Muottathal to Scbwyz see R. 
 76. Excursion to the Klon-See (p. 304) , to Vorauen 9 M. (two-horse carr. 
 13 fr.), or only to the lake (4'i-j M.), scenery beautiful. To Coire by the 
 tSer/if Valleij, see R. 77. 
 
 The excursion from Glarus to the Baths of Stachelberg is 
 most agreeably accomplished in an open carriage (see above); 
 pedestrians should select the pleasant road on the r. bank of the 
 Linth, via Ennenda , to Schwanden , in preference to the high-road. 
 
 As ('21/4 M.) Mitlodi (1606'), the first village on the high- 
 road, is approached, a magniftcent view is obtained of the Tiidi and 
 its gigantic neighbours, which form the background of the valley, 
 but are not visible beyond (IV2 ^^•) Schwanden. The scenery is 
 of the most picturesque description, the fertile and populous val- 
 ley, with its thriving manufactories, presenting a pleasing contrast 
 to the rocky and wooded mountains by which it is enclosed, and 
 the icy giant-peaks at its extremity. 
 
 Schwanden (1712') (*Adler), is situated at the junction of 
 tlie Sernf or KLein-ThaL with the Linth or Gross-Thai, 3^/4 M, 
 from Glarus. Diligence to Engi and Elm in the Sernf-Thal, see 
 p. 305.
 
 204 Route 72. STACHELBERG. 
 
 The higli-road in the Liiith-Thal leads to (3/4 M.J Mdfurn 
 (Lowe). (1 M.) Leukelbach with a picturesque waterfall, and 
 fl M.) Luchsingen (1916 'J (Freihof). The Linth is now 
 crossed and ( '/2 ^-1 Hcizingen reached, where the road on the 
 r. bank (see above~) unites with the high-road. Then on the r. 
 bank by (3/4 M.") Diesbach (flue waterfall , path by the fountain) 
 and (7-2 ^ ) Betschwanden (1958'1. 
 
 The'Saa pberg (6562'), to the S.E. . the W. spur of the Karpfstock 
 (0180'). may easily he ascended hence. From the summit a striking view 
 of the background of the valley and the surrounding mountains. 
 
 At (3/4 M.) Ruti the pedestrian proceeding to the Baths quits 
 the road and crosses the bridge (r. ) to the 1. bank. About 3/4 M. 
 farther the cnrriage-road diverges to the r. to the 
 
 *Baths of Stachelberg (2113'), magnificently situated on the 
 1. bank of the Linth. The *Hotel (R.^i/o, B. 1. D. 3 , A. 3/4 
 fr. , for patients more moderate) is frequently overcrowded on 
 Sundays , so that travellers are obliged to pass the night at the 
 '■Chalet' or the ^Seggen (the winter-estnb.) on the opp. bank of 
 the river. The powerful sulphureous alkaline water is obtained 
 from a cleft of the Braunwaldherg , II/2 ^- distant; the supply 
 is so limited , that one bottle only is filled per minute. The 
 *view of the upper extremity of the valley is strikingly grand 
 and beautiful: in the centre is the huge Selbsanft (9921'). to 
 the r. the Kammerstock (697.")'). frequently ascended from Linth- 
 thal , adjacent to which a portion of the Todi is visible to the 
 I.; between the latter and the more distant Bifertenstock (10,778') 
 the Biferten Glacier is imbedded. 
 
 Stachelberg is recommended as head-quarters for excursions among the 
 mountains of the Todi group (see below). Heinrich Elmer of Elm, Joach. 
 Ziveifel, Albert Zicei/el, and Jacob Legler at Linththal. Andreas Vorder- 
 inann c^nd Abraham >Stei'Ssi at Glarus . and Petrr Hefti at Luchsingen are 
 recommended as guides for the mountains of Olarus. They are under the 
 supervision of the Swiss Aljiine Club, and have a fixed tariff of fees. Short 
 excursions : Fatschbach-Fall (p. 296) : Pantenbrdcke and Sandalp, see below ; 
 also to the (2 hrs.) ' Brauvwald Alp, commanding a magnificent view of the 
 Todi-, to the Obrrbleagisee (by Luchsingen), etc. 
 
 After setting down passengers at the Baths of Stachelberg. the 
 diligence returns to the r. bank to (V4 M.) Matt and (I/2 M.) 
 
 101/2 M- Linththal (2169'J ( Adler ; *Bar ; Rube), a considerable 
 village, containing a monument (to the I. of the road) to F. von 
 Diirler (p. 32), the explorer of the Todi. Numerous extensive 
 factories in the neighbourhood. A bridge here leads direct to 
 Ennetlinth and the Fatschbachfall (p. 296). 
 
 Pantenbriicke, Upper Sandalp, Todi. 
 
 The valley of the Linth. termed Grosx- Thai, to distinguish it from the 
 Kb-in-Thal, or ,'<er»ft/ial (p. 305). continues to be nearly level. A carriage- 
 road leads from Linththal bv Auenrjilter (fine retrospect of the valley) to 
 the (3i|2 M.) pension and whey-cure estab. Zum Todi (R. li|2, R- 1 (r.), 
 situated on the Thierfeld, a green pasture surrounded by lofty mountains, 
 and intersected by the gorge of the Linth. The Todi itself is not visible 
 hence. The second half of the route commands a view of the Tvaterfall
 
 UPPEK SANDALP. 7i'. lioute. 295 
 
 (?3'J' high) (»f the Schreienbach , which descends from flie rocks to fhe r., 
 resembling the Stauhbach at Lauterbrunnen , but of greater volume ; 
 rainbow-hues are produced by the sun on the spray , especially in the 
 morning. 
 
 A few paces beyond the Hotel Tridi a bridge crosses the Linth, beyond 
 which the steep and stony path ascends for 20 min. A tablet on a large 
 rock on the 1. is to the memory of Dr. Wislicenus, who perished in Aug., 
 1866, whilst attempting to scale the Grunhorn (see l)elow| without a guide. 
 The path then descends towards the ravine, turns a corner, and reache."* 
 the Pantenbriicke (pons pendens, 3212'), l'|4 hr. walk from Linththal. This 
 bridge, 160' above the Linth. forms with its adjuncts a grand picture. The 
 old bridge, dating from the 15th cent., destroyed in 18o2, probably by an 
 avalanche, has been replaced. — Those who desire to return by a different 
 route should cross the bridge and ascend the grassy slope in a straight 
 direction to the (20 min.) 'Auelialp, whence a good view of the Tddi is 
 obtained, then proceed to the Baumgarten Atp , which lies on the r. bank 
 of the valley above the Thierfeld (see above), and descend by Obord to the 
 Auengiiter (see above) ., situated on the carriage-rf)ad. The Auelialp is a 
 very interesting point, not less deserving of a visit than the Pantenbrucke. 
 
 The Linththal is terminated by a lofty and magnificent group of mcmn- 
 taius, whose summits are shrouded with perpetual snow. The giant of 
 this group is the *T6di , or Piz Rusein (11,887'). with its brilliant snowy 
 crest, the most conspicuous of all the mountains of E. Switzerland, as- 
 cended for the first time in 1837. The expedition, now frequently under- 
 taken, can only be recommended to practised mountaineers, accompanied 
 by good guides (see above). The usual route is from the Upper Sandalp to 
 the Grunhorn Hut, established by the Swiss Alpine Club, in 3, thence to 
 fhe summit in 3',''.> hrs. The descent may be made by the Porta da Spescha, 
 and through the Rusein- Thai to (7 hrs.) Dissentis (p. 310) (from the Sand- 
 alp to Dissentis 13' J2 hrs.). The Bischofsstock , or Piz Burjin , the second 
 highest peak of this group, was ascended for the first time in 1863. 
 
 The Upper Sandalp (6.3.58'). 4 hrs. walk from the Pantenbrucke, com- 
 mands a view of singular beauty, be.-.ring some resemblance to that of 
 Monte Rosa from 3Iacugnaga (p. 218). The finest point is about "(i. hr. beyond 
 the chalets (refreshments and a bed of hay in July and August). The path to 
 the Upper Sandalp leads from the Pantenbriicke. on the r. bank, first to the 
 r. (that in a straight direction ascends to the Auelialp, see above) through 
 underwood , then aci'oss the Limuiern-Bach which descends from a narrow 
 ravine, afterwards across the >Sand-Bach, as the Linth is here called , and 
 ascends to the Lower Sandalp, opposite the chalets, Djo hr. from the Panten- 
 brucke. The path then proceeds hence on the r. bank. and. beyf)nd the last 
 chalet, crosses the Biferten Bach, which descends from the Bif'erten Glacier. 
 Then a laborious ascent of the Ochsenblanke, a steep . grassy slope . nearly 
 20(X)' in height, over which the brook forms a fine cascade. The path finally 
 recrosses to the 1. bank . where the brook forces its passage through a 
 rocky gorge, and soon reaches the chalets of the Upper Sandalp. The 
 Tddi forms the boundary between r41arus and Oraubiinden (Orisons). A 
 very difficult path (Sandalp Pass) leads over its glaciers (Sand_firn) fnuu 
 the Upper Sandalp to Dissentis in 8 or 10 hrs. ; another very interesting 
 route crosses the Claridengrat to the Maderanerthal (p. 76)". From the 
 Pantenbrucke (not by the Upper Sandalp. but more to the 1.) a path 
 crosses the Kisten Pass (8329') to Ilan/. (10—12 hrs.), suitable only for 
 practised mountaineers. — The summit of the Tcidi is illuminated by the 
 sun one hour longer than the neighbouring mountains. 
 
 The excursion from the Knths of Stachelberg to the Upper Sandalp 
 (ascent 6'(2. descent 5 hrs.) will be facilitated if the traveller ride to the 
 commencement of the narrower portion of the valley , where the climbing 
 begins.
 
 296 
 
 73. From the Baths of Stachelberg to Altorf. 
 Klausen. 
 
 Comp. 3faps, pp. 202., 66. 
 
 11 hrs. Bridle-path : from the Baths to the chapel in the Urner Bodeu 
 3'|2, Klausen 2, Aelpli Aesch li|2, Unterschiichen 1, Altorf 3 hrs. ; a fatiguing 
 walk; jiuide (10 fr.) unnecessary; horse 25 fr. 
 
 The path from the Baths of Stachelberg (2113') follows the 
 1. bank of the Linth, passing Ennetlinth; (J/o hr.) the Frutbach 
 is crossed (small waterfall), then an ascent to the r. throiigli 
 wood; 5 min. farther (where the path divides, the ascent must 
 be avoided) a picturesque waterfall of the Fatschhach , which 
 descends from the I'rner Boden. in order to obtain a good view 
 of the fall the traveller proceeds to the r., about 1") paces before 
 the little bridge is crossed, and ascends for 200 paces by a nar- 
 row path on the 1. bank. He should then return almost to tlie 
 beginning of the path , and ascend the Frutbery , on which the 
 hridle-path is reached in 5 min. (Those who descend may here 
 at once turn to the r. towards the brook.) Ascent of 1 lir., 
 then nearly level, by the Fatschbach, to a wall and gate, the 
 boundary between Glarus and Uri. 
 
 The Urner Boden (2i/2 hrs. from Stachelberg), one of the 
 highest Alpine pastures, about 4 M. long and 1/2 ^- hroad, now 
 commences. It is bounded on the N. by the precipitous and 
 rugged walls of the Ortstock, ov Silberenstock (8910'), and on the 
 S. by the glaciers and snow- fields of the Clariden ( 10,709'j. 
 The path traverses the occasionally marshy pasture , and reaches 
 the Sonne., a mountain-inn , ^2 hr. from the frontier of Glarus. 
 On an eminence, about 25 min. farther, stands a Chapel. Inn 
 Zum Tell. 
 
 The path traverses the pasture for 1/2 hr. more, then ascends 
 (3/4 hr.. an excellent spring to the 1. of the path) a stony slope 
 to the (I72 hr.) 
 
 Klausen (6437') , the summit of the pass, which is seldom 
 entirely free from snow. This is the culminating point (watershed) 
 between the Linth and the Reuss, and the boundary between the 
 L'rner Boden and the Schachenthal. 
 
 After a gradual descent of 1/2 hr. , a direction-post is reached, 
 where the path to the 1. must be taken, leading to (5 min.) a 
 group of chalets and a rocky cleft , the approach to the Balm- 
 wand (5675'), which here descends precipitously to the Schachen- 
 thal. The stony and rugged path descends by innumerable 
 windings to the Aelpli (little Alp") Aesch (4075'), which, in wet 
 weather especially, will be reached with no little satisfaction. 
 The brook which emerges from the glacier of the Scheerhorn 
 (10,814'), the W. spur of the Clariden , the jagged peaks of 
 which bear a fanciful resemblance to an open pair of scissors
 
 UNTERSCHACHEN. 73. Route. 297 
 
 (Scheere), forms, to the 1., a remarkably picturesque *\vaterfall 
 (Stauhi), seen to the best advantage from the bridge Avhith here 
 crosses the brook. 
 
 About 20 min. farther the Schachenbach is crossed , and in 
 1/4 hr. more the Chapel of St. Anna is reached (good drinking- 
 uater). The next bridge (10 min.) is only for the use of 
 the herdsmen: the path follows the r. bank, and in 74 '^''• 
 reaches TJnterschachen (3347'J (*Post). The scenery of this 
 charming Alpine valley is very imposing. The Schachenbadi 
 forms several waterfalls. Through tlie picturesque 7JrMnn<- 77tai, 
 which opens to the 1. below rnterschiichen, the Grouse liuchen, 
 or Rur.hi ( 10,'2i)(j'), termed Alpnocer.itock in the Maderaner-Thal, 
 is visible with its glaciers and siiow-ttelds. On the N. side rises 
 the Kinziykulm (()7yi'), the scene of Suwarow's celebrated 
 retreat. 
 
 The next villages are Ober- and Inter- Spirlny en. In 2 hrs. 
 more a stone bridge is crossed, 20 min. beyond which Burglen 
 (p. 74) is reached. Hence to (20 min.) Altorf, see p. 74. 
 
 In Sept. 1799 , when Suwarow crossed the St. Gdtthard with his 
 army and repulsed the French , who little expected his arrival in that di- 
 rection , he found, on reaching the Lake of Lucerne, that no lutats could 
 be procured for the tran.sport of his troops. The resources of the land 
 were, moreover, exhausted, and totally inadequate to support his vast army. 
 The passes of the Axenberg (p. 12) on the E. bank of the Urner See were 
 occupied by the French under Lecoitrbe. In this emergency the great 
 general planned that memorable retreat upon which his high military re- 
 putation mainlv rests. Deprived almost of the verv means of subsistence, 
 on Sept. 26th, "1799, he entered the Schachenthal with his army of24,(J(X) 
 men , one division of which ascended by Burglen and the E. side of the 
 Faulen (8212') , the other by the Kinzigerthal to the Kinzigkulm tG79i'), 
 whence they descended into the Muotta-Thal. The mountain paths, hitherto 
 untrodden except by shepherds or hunters , were so narrow that the troops 
 could only proceed in single file , and the advanced guard reached Muotta 
 before the last tro(jps had quitted Altorf. During this harassing march, 
 which occupied 14 hrs., the Russians sufl'ered enormous losses. Ammunition 
 and guns were pi-ecipitated into the mountain-abysses ; a vast number of 
 soldiers sank from exhaustion , whilst many others were taken prisoners 
 by the French. 
 
 74. From Wadenswyl, Richterswyl, or Rapperschwyl 
 to Einsiedeln. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. 38. 
 
 From Wadenswyl 11 JM. , from Richterswyl 9 M. , from Rapperschwyl 
 12 M. Diligence from Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln once daily in 2'l3 hrs. 
 (2 fr. ) ; from Richterswyl to Einsiedeln 3 times dailv in 1^^ hrs.. fare 
 1 fr. 8() c. 
 
 The high-roads from W a d e n s w y 1 and from R i c h t e r s w y 1 
 to Einsiedeln ascend a gradual slope from the lake of Ziiricli (the 
 direct path from Richterswyl . following the telegr. posts , saves 
 1/4 hr.J, and unite near Sc'hindellegi (2484') (Hirsch), b^j-i M. 
 from the former and S'/o ^^- from the latter. The road here 
 suddenly enters the valley of the Sild (^p. 4(V) , which it crosses 
 by a covered wooden bridge. The luxuriant fertility of the district
 
 298 lioifte 74. BIBERBRUCK. From Zurich 
 
 through which the roads wind upwards from the lake disappears, 
 and the scenery assumes a more Alpine character. (Pedestrians 
 follow the old road, as the new route makes a long curve to the 
 1.). The Mythen (p. 55) become visible; afterwards, on turning 
 towards the S.E. (S.W. is the high-road to Schwyz) in the direc- 
 tion of Einsiedeln, at ('21/4 M.) Biberbruck (29200 (Post), where 
 the Blher joins the Alpbach, the entire chain of the mountains of 
 Olarus with their frowning peaks, terminating on the I. in the 
 pyramidal Kopfenstock (6240'). forms the background of the Alpine 
 view. (Biberbruck is the point of intersection of the diligence- 
 routes from Richterswyl and Uznach-Lachen to Einsiedeln, Schwyz, 
 and Brunnen.) From Biberbruck to Einsiedeln, 3^/4 M. , the 
 road traverses green meadows. At the point where the road 
 reaches the last eminence before Einsiedeln, a beautiful view is 
 obtained of the Alpthal , the extensive buildings of the Abbey, 
 with the church in the midst, surrounded by a group of houses, 
 with the imposing Mythen terminating the valley. 
 
 From Rapperschwyl to Einsiedeln. The long Br/dgre of 
 Rapperschwyl forms the boundary between the cantons of St. Gall 
 and Schwyz. On a small promontory of the S. bank stands the 
 village of Hurden; Pfaffikon, IY2 ^I- beyond, with large farm- 
 buildings belonging to the Abbey of Einsiedeln , lies to the r. 
 On a height above Pfaffikon lies the a sanitary establishment of Lw- 
 gede. After crossing the road from Ziirich to Glarus . the road ascends 
 the Etzel; fine retrospective view of the lake; *inn on the summit 
 of the pass (311?'). Tt/4 M. from Rapperschwyl. (Travellers from 
 Einsiedeln should follow the path to the 1. , 300 paces below the inn. ) 
 
 The summit of the Etzel. the Hoch-Etzel (3615'), 'la hr. .<iteep ascent 
 from the inn. is wooded, nnd commands a very limited prospect, but the 
 Schonboden (3520'), ^\\ hr. E. of the inn, a (lords a most beautiful pano- 
 ramic view, extending far beyond the lake, and embracing the Limmat- 
 thal as far as Baden, the Allmann chain to the X.E., the Toggenburg and 
 Appenzell mountains , the Speev and Schaniserberg to the E. , the Sihl- 
 Valley, and the mountains of the Waggithal fp. 411, with the Glarnisch 
 and Wiggis rising above them, to the S. ; to the S.W. the Euthal or Alp- 
 thal, with Einsiedeln. the Mythen of Schwyz, the Rufi and the Rigi ; to 
 tlie W. the Hohe-Rhnnen (4(332') . which derives its local appellation of 
 Dreilnnderstein from the stone on the summit which marks the boundaries 
 (if the three cantons of Zurich, Zug, and Schwyz. Those who wish to proceed 
 from the Schonboden to Einsiedeln, need not return to the Etzel, but may 
 descend at once towards the S.W., through several enclosures, to Egg, 
 visible below, where the Sihl is crossed. The traveller soon after reaches 
 the road which descends from the Etzel. 
 
 Near the Etzel Inn is the Chapel of St. Meinrad . the abode 
 of the count of that name (see below) about the middle of the 
 9th cent. His repute for sanctity attracted such vast numbers of 
 devotees to his cell, that he was compelled to quit it. and retire 
 to Einsiedeln , where he founded the abbey. The road now 
 descends to the (1 M.) Teufelshriicke (2202') which spans the 
 Sihl. The celebrated empiric and alchymist Paracelsus (d. 1541 
 at Salzburg) is said to have been born here. Then 3'^/4 M. to
 
 to FJnsiedeln. EINSTEDF.LX. 74. Route. 299 
 
 Einsiedeln {29bT) [^Pfnu . K. li/.. 1",. 1, D. 3. A. '/o fr. : 
 Elnsiedler Hof. new; Drei Konuje; St. Catharina), Notre-Dame- 
 des-Hermite.'^ , Mona.sterium Eremitarum. A large proportion of 
 the 78o houses of which the town is composed (7633 itihab.") 
 consists of inns of various grades, which provide entertainment 
 for the vast numbers of pilgrims who resort to the abbey to 
 celebrate the high festivals. The extensive Abbey, re -erected 
 1704 — 19 in the Italian style after its destruction by fire (for the 
 (3th or 7th time), rises high above all the other buildings in the 
 green valley, which is watered by the Alpbach. 
 
 The Abbey was founded in the time of Charlemagne. According to 
 tradition, Meinvad, Count of Sulgen on the Danube, built a chapel on the 
 Etzel (p. 298) , and afterwards another on the spot where the Abbey now 
 stands , in honoiir of a miraculous image of the Virgin presented to him 
 l)y Hildegarde, Abbess of the church of "Notre Dame at Zurich. He was 
 assassinated in 861 , and his murderers were discovered t)y means of two 
 ravens which the holy man had tamed , and which hovered about the 
 assassins wherever they went, croaking and flapping their dusky wings till 
 the miscreants reached Ziirich. The attention of the populace was at- 
 tracted by this singular cii'cumstance , and the result was that the men 
 were arrested and ultimately executed at Zurich. The reputation of St. 
 Jleinrad increased so rapidly after his death, that a Benedictine abbey was 
 founded (ui the spot where his cell ha<i stood. The legend relates that 
 when the Bishop of Constance was about to consecrate the church , Sept. 
 14th, 948, heavenly voices announced to him at midnight that the Saviour 
 biniself. surrounded by his angels, had already performed the sacred cei*e- 
 uiony. A bull of Pope Leo Xlll. confirmed the miracle , and accorded 
 plenary ind\ilgences to all who should perform the pilgrimage to 'Our 
 Lady of the Hermits'. The ofYerings of the crowd of worshippers were a 
 source of great wealth to the Abbey. After St. Gall, it became the richest 
 Abbey in Switzerland. The Emperor Rudolf of Hapsburg created its abbot 
 Prince of the Empire in 1274; this dignitary lived in almost regal magni- 
 licence , exercising supreme authority over an extensive district. The 
 abbots were for the most part men of noble birth until the 10th cent. To 
 this day Einsiedeln is the most considerable abbey in Switzerland, and in 
 the Rom. Cath. cantons the abbot is styled 'Prince of Einsiedeln', and is 
 invested with considerable power. 
 
 When the French republicans invaded the country in 1798, they seized 
 the greater portion of the treasures which, in the course of centuries, had 
 been accumulated at Einsiedeln, and carried them ofl' to Paris. The pious 
 fathers had. however, rescued the sacred image of the Virgin, the chief 
 object of their veneration, from the hands of the spoilers, and after having 
 taken refuge for some time in the Tyrol , returned with it in 1803. Since 
 that time i)ilgrimages to the siirine have been resumed. In 1710 the 
 number of pilgrims amounted to 260,(X)0 ; it now averages 150,000 annually. 
 On high festivals (and especially when the anniversary of the Festival of 
 Einsiedeln happens to fall on a Sunday) an immense crowd Hocks hither 
 from all parts of Switzerland, from Bavaria and Swabia, the Black Forest, 
 Alsace, Lorraine, and even n»ore distant regiims. The greater proportion 
 belong to the poorer classes , many of whom are paid for their pious ser 
 vices by the rich, who thus i)erform an act of devotion by deputy. With 
 the exception of Loreto in Italy, St. .lames of Compostella in Spain , and 
 JIariazell in Styria, Einsiedeln attracts mfire julgrims than any other shrine. 
 In 1861 the Abbey celebrated the 10(X)th anniversary of its foundation, on 
 which occasion an enormous concourse assembled to take part in the 
 festival. The King of Prussia and the Prince of Hohenzollern presented 
 the .\bbey with two valuable historical paintings by Miicke of Diisseldorf 
 on this occasion ; one repi'csents St. JMeinrad (who is said to have been a 
 scion of the noble house of Hohenzollern) preaching on the Etzel (p. 298)
 
 300 Route 74. EINSIEDELN. 
 
 in the presence of a large assembly of hearers (many of the heads are 
 portraits of members of the Hohenzolleru family) ; the other is the 
 Presentation of the Sacred Image by Hildegarde , first Abbess of the Con- 
 vent at Ziirich. 
 
 The Abbey numbers 60 priests and 20 brothers of the Benedictine 
 Older , with a corresponding number of lay brethren for the management 
 of the property (excellent breed of horses). 
 
 In the large open space between the houses and the church 
 is a black marble Fountain with 14 jets, surmounted by an image 
 of the Virgin. According to a legend, the Saviour om-.e partook 
 of water from one of these jets , but as it is uncertain which, 
 pilgrims avoid the possibility of mistake by religiously drinking 
 from each in succession. Under the Arcades, which form a semi- 
 circular approach to the church on the r. and 1. , as well as in 
 the square itself, there are numerous stalls, where missals, images 
 of saints, rosaries, medals, crucifixes, and similar articles are of- 
 fered for sale. So extensive is this traffic that at Benziyer'a 
 Library no fewer than 14 lithographic presses, 60 bookbinders, 
 and 150 children (engaged in illumination) are constantly employed. 
 The Statues on the r. and 1. of the entrance are those of the 
 Emperors Otho I. and Henry 11., two great benefactors of the Abbey. 
 The edifice is 414' long, 117' of which are occupied by the 
 church and its two slender towers, which bears some resemblance 
 to the church of S. Giovanni in Laterano at Rome. 
 
 The Interior is gaudily decorated with gilding, marble, and pictures 
 of little worth. In the nave , and entirely isolated from the rest of the 
 building, stands the Chapel of the Virgin^ of black marble, the 'Sanc- 
 tum Sanctorum", with a grating, through which, illuminated by a 
 solitary lamp , a small Image of the Virgin and Child is visible, riclily 
 attired , and adorned with crowns of gold and precious stones. At the 
 back of the chapel is the following inscription : " Deiparae Virgini 
 Caspanis Comes in Aliaeinbs Gallava et Vadutz Perfecit Anno Salutis 
 MDCXXXII."" In the chapel to the r. a Crucifix by J. Kraus ; in the choir 
 an Assumption by the same artist , beautifully restored by Deschwanden 
 in 1858. "Begging is prohibited in this church under pain of corporal 
 punishment," is an announcement which may be read in many parts of the 
 edifice. Objectionable as the oft'ence is, it is to be hoped the punishment 
 is no longer inflicted. The Treasury , once so rich , was despoiled by 
 the French in 1798. The Abbey contains a well arranged Library of 
 26,000 volumes, chiefly historical, a number of aiSS. , and a smallcol- 
 lection of nat. history. — Connected with the Abbey ai-e a Seminary 
 and a Lyceum. 
 
 It is an interesting historical fact that the Reformer Zwingli 
 was parish priest at Einsiedeln from 1515 to 1519; it is re- 
 corded that the effect of his preaching was so great, that in 1517, 
 on the anniversary festival , the monks left their cells , and the 
 Abbey was deserted for a considerable time. 
 
 The Herrenbery , an eminence near the Abbey , commands a 
 beautiful view of the neighbourhood.
 
 301 
 
 75. From Einsiedeln to Schwyz and Brunnen. 
 
 Com p. Map, p. f>G. 
 
 20 M. Diligiencc twico daily to (17 M.) Schwyz in 3, Bninnon in 
 3'J2 hrs. ; fare 4 fr. 30 c. Footpath to Schwy/ by the Hackcn 8'|2 hr.s. 
 
 The Footpath from Einsiedeln (2952') to Schwyz, destitute 
 of shade , is by no means to be recommended in bad weather. 
 It traverses the monotonous Alpthal (convent of Au on the r.j, 
 to the village of (l'/2 l^r-) ALpthal (3261'), where the ascent 
 of the Hacken commences by a rugged path. After an ascent of 
 Y2 hr., a resting-place is reached, whence the space which inter- 
 venes between the Mythen (p. 55), in shape resembling the letter 
 V, is distinctly perceived; in 7-2 hr. more the Inn on the siimmit 
 of the pass (4588') is attained, commanding a magniticent prospect 
 of a portion of the Lake of Lucerne, the Lake of Lowerz (p. 55), 
 theRigi, Steinerberg, etc. The \ie\v ivom the *Hochstuckti(b[Ob), 
 '/.J hr. higher up towards the N., is still finer, and embraces the 
 town and the N. portion of the Lake of Zurich. The rugged and 
 precipitous descent to (1 hr.) Schwyz is extremely disagreeable 
 in wet weather. 
 
 The High Koad returns towards the N.W. to 
 
 374 M. Biberbruck (2920', p. 298), whence it turns towards 
 the S.W. to (iV2 ^^- ) Altmatt, a village consisting of a few poor 
 habitations occupied by weavers, and situated on a large expanse 
 of turf, from wliich a steep and stony path runs direct to (1 hr.) 
 Einsiedeln across the elevated plain of the Katzenstrick (3455'). 
 
 At Rothenthurm (3041') (Leue), 3 M. from Altmatt, the 
 Landsyemeinde assembled biennially previous to 1848 (comp. p. 
 75). The villnge derives its name from a red tower, appertain- 
 ing to the fortifications (Letze) extending as far as Arth, erected 
 by the Schwyzers to protect their N.W. boundary against the in- 
 cursions of their neighbours. 
 
 The long ridge of the Kigi , declining towards the S. , with 
 the inn on the Kulm to the N. , is now visible. The road de- 
 scends in numerous zigzags; far below in the gorge Hows the 
 Steiner-Aa. The valley, up to this point somewhat monotonous, 
 now becomes more interesting. 
 
 3 31. to the W. of Rothenthurm lies the small, but picturestiue Lake 
 of Egeri (2388'), .skirted on the E. and N. sides by the high-road frtun 
 Sattel to Zug , the S.E. ^lope of wliieli is named the Morgarten (4055'). 
 Eight years after the expulsion of the Austrian gnvernors, Leopold 0/ 
 Austria, accompanied by a brilliant array of knights, marched into the 
 country for the purpose of subjugating the Forest Cantims. The Swiss, 
 however, gained a signal victory over the adherents of Hapsburg and their 
 allies at Morgarten, Nov. 16th. 1315. At the S. extremity of the lake, not 
 far from the houses 'An day iichorntfii\ stands a Chapel, erected in 
 memory of the great battle, of which it contains a representation. Service 
 is celebrated here annually on the anniversary of the battle. 
 
 On the E. slope of the ?tlorg irten . towards Rothenthurm, the Swiss 
 under Aloh- lUdiiig ccjntiuered a division of the French armv undiM-
 
 302 Route 7.0. STEINEN. 
 
 ScLauenburg . May "^nd . 179S. This was the last struggle made by the 
 Swiss against the power of the French republic. 
 
 XtBibereyg (3110'). to the 1. of the road, is an old residence 
 of the Reding family. The heavy rains of the summer of 1851 
 caused an extensive landslip (comp. p. 54) not far from Biber- 
 egg. The village of 
 
 T1/4 M. Sattel (2522' J iKrone, post-office), 23/4 M. from 
 Hothenthurm , stands higher than the road , above the valley of 
 Egeri (Chapel of Morgarten 1 M. distantj, on the mountain-ridge 
 (Sattel) which separates the Kossberg (p. 54) from the Schwyzer 
 Mythen. The Lake of Egeri sparkles towards the N. (Diligence 
 from .Sattel by the Lake of Egeri to Zug in 2 hrs. , fare 2 fr.) 
 By the Ecce-Homo Chapel, I1/2 ^I- ^^- of Sattel, a footpath leads 
 to Goldau and Arth in 2 hrs. by the Steinerberg and the slopes 
 of the Rossberg, traversing the scene of the landslip, a convenient 
 route for those who wish to visit the Rigi. 
 
 During the desc&nt by the Schwyz road , the views of the 
 town of Schwyz , the Hacken and the Mythen , the Lake of Lo- 
 werz, the Rossberg and the Rigi, are very fine. Steinen (1574'J 
 (Ro'tsU) was the birthplace of Werner Stauffacher , one of the 
 three Swiss patriots who met on the Riitli (p. 72). On the site 
 of his house a Chapel was erected in 1400 , and adorned with 
 rude frescoes of scenes from the life of the patriot, the Riitli, and 
 the Battle of Morgarten. The tine walnut-trees in the vicinity 
 contribute not a little to the beauty of this spot. From Steinen 
 another path to Goldau ( 1 hr. ) diverges to the r. Next Seewen, 
 and thence through 
 
 61/.2 M. Schwyz (^168(3') to (3 M.) 
 
 Brunnen, see p. 56. 
 
 A good new road (' Scldagsirasae ) from Sattel to Schwyz direct (Pijhr.) 
 skirts the slopes of the Hacken by Auf Uer Burg, leaving Steinen below 
 to the r. : charming views of the i.ake of Lowei-z, the lUgi and the deep 
 valley which separates the Hacken and Rossberg. 
 
 76. From Schwyz to Glarus by the Pragel. 
 
 Comp. ^faps, pp. 66, 2f>2. 
 
 11 hrs. The most beautiful poi-tions of the route are between Schwyz 
 and Muotta S^iU M. ( Muottathal) , and between Vorauen and Glarus 9 31. 
 ( Kloni/ial), both of which are very attractive. The passage of the Pragel 
 (bridle-path) is fatiguing, stony, in many places marshy, and almost entirely 
 destitute of view. In the JIuottathal and the Klcinthal a guide is super- 
 fluous. A guide, however, should be engaged for the Pragel. especially if 
 snow still lies on the pass (till the middle of June) ; from Schwyz to 
 Glarus 10 fr. , from Muotta to Vorauen 5 fr. •, Franz Dominic Hediger and 
 Jacob Blaser of Muotta are recommended. Good inns at Muotta and 
 Vorauen. The traveller is recommended to drive as far as Muotta , pass 
 the night there, and cross the Pragel the following morning, so as to reach 
 the Kliinthal with sufficiently unimpaired strength to enjoy its beauties. 
 Xo inn between Muotta and Richisau. 
 
 From Schwyz (p. 55) the Footpath proceeds towards the 
 angle of the Uibel^ the base of which is skirted by the Muotta j
 
 MUOTTA. 70. Route. 303 
 
 '20 mill, a lioiise , then ascent throngh forest, roiiml tlie CJibel; 
 1/2 hr., refnge-hut ; '/4 hr.. opp the bridge (see below J; 7 min., 
 carriage-road, near a gate. Those who come from Muotta should 
 here take the path to the 1., that to the r. ascends the mountain. 
 The Carriage-road diverges from the road to Brunnen 
 [y. 56) beyond (II/4M.) Ibacfi (1470'), and ascends high on the 
 r. bank of the Muotta or Mutten; the valley is at lirst narrow, 
 but afterwards expands considerably. In i'i\)d Suwarow drove 
 back the French under Massena , Mortier, and Soult as far as 
 (l'/4 M.) Ober-ScUonenbach ^ situated on the opposite bank, his 
 purpose being to effect a union witli the Russian army at Zurich. 
 (4I/.2 M.) £ied, with an inn; to the 1. the waterfall of the 
 Gsiilbt-Bach , which at first descends perpendicularly , and then 
 glides over a bare rock. (3/^ M.) Bridge over the Muotta. 
 Then (21/4 M.) 
 
 Muotta (2047') (*Hirsch, by the church, moderate), capital 
 of the valley. 8'/4 M. from Schwyz, with the Franciscaji Monastery 
 of St. Joseph, founded in 1280, in which Suwarow established his 
 head-quarters. In the vicinity are several waterfalls , the tlnest 
 of which is the Kesseltobel. [From Muotta to Altorf by the Kin- 
 ziykulin (p. 297). a rough and uninteresting walk of 9 hrs. ; 
 from Muotta to the Baths of Stachelberg (p. 294j through the 
 Bisithal, very fatiguing, 9 hrs.] 
 
 On the night of Sept. 27tli , 1799, the inhabitants of this sequestered 
 valley were astounded by the sudden appearance of a large army . the sol- 
 diers of which were natives of a distant and barbarous country . hardly 
 known to tlieni even by name, descending from the heights of the Kiiizig- 
 kiilin upon their green meadows. These were Suwarow and his "ii.UKt 
 Russians. Here the general was hrst informed of Korsakows defeat at 
 Zurich (p. 31). He was now completely surrounded by tlie enemy. A 
 division of Lecourbe's army was pressing hard upon him. Jlolitor's 
 vanguard was on the Pragel . and Mortier and Massena had occupied 
 the mouth of the valley near Ibach and Schwyz. A desperate attempt to 
 penetrate to Schwyz was foiled , after a series of lierce struggles , by the 
 arrival of Lecourbe . who with the remains of his army had rejoined 
 Mortier and Masse'na. ¥ov the first time in his life the veteran hero 
 was compelled to retreat; he retired by the Pragel towards Glanis. which 
 was the only route left open to him. The vanguard of Molit(tr was re- 
 pulsed ; the Russian rearguard under Rosenberg , being hard pressed 
 by Massena, drove back the French, in spite of their resistance, with 
 great loss, to the neighbourhood of Schwyz, and on Sept. 30th, Suwarow 
 commenced his retreat up the valley to the Pragel. He hoped to he able 
 to force his way to Zurich l)y Olarus , and there rejoin Korsakow. The 
 mouth of the Linth-Thal near Nafels was. however, also held by Molitor, 
 whose troops Bagration in vain attempted to repulse. Suwarow gave 
 his forces a few days' rest at (llarus , and then retired tlirough the Sernf- 
 Thal towards the Grisons (p. 3i.6). 
 
 Bridle-Path beyond Muotta. The foot of the Staldeu is 
 reached in ^/.y hr. ; the path then ascends a toilsome and stony 
 slope for 1 hr. to some liouses (fine retrospect of the Muottathal) ; 
 Y4 hr. farther, it turns to the 1. across the Storzle by the h'lo- 
 sierbery Bridge, then ascends rapidly to the r. to two houses; 
 35 min., the withered trunk of a large tir-tree is passed; 5 min.,
 
 304 Route 76. KLONTHAL. 
 
 by a gate, descent to the r., then across the brook by a wooden 
 bridge; 10 min., a cross; 5 min. , past a cattle-shed in a pic- 
 turesque, green valley; ^/^hr., past the Sennebrunnen, a stream 
 of delicious water; 5 min., house of refuge; 5 min., a cross. 
 Now almost level to the (25 min.) chalets on the Pragel (5062'J; 
 marshy soil and no view. 
 
 In descending . the path , at first steep and stony , leads to 
 the (3/4 hr.) chalets of the Schwellau (4315'), and then descends 
 to the r. ; 1/4 ^r. , cattle-shed; here to the r. towards the large 
 fir-tree , where the Klonthal and lake become visible ; 1/2 hr. 
 Richisan (3697'), a rich green pasture with groups of handsome 
 trees and a whey-cure establishment (pension 1 fr. 60 c, milk- 
 diet only). Now through an enclosure to the 1. and round the 
 valley, slightly ascending. Then straight on, not to the r., 
 occasionally on a wooden pathway ; afterwards across a pleasant 
 pasture , commanding a magnificent view of the beautifully ar- 
 ticulated Glarnisch the whole way. Then a direct descent to 
 (1 hr.) Vorauen (2716'), beautifully situated in the Klonthal 
 [Hotel Vorauen .^ new, well spoken of; *Claus Aehli; Weber; 
 guides to the Glarnisch may be engaged here). 
 
 From Vorauen to the Pragel, a meadow is traversed, and the 
 carriage-road quitted by a path to the r. tlirough the forest, in which the 
 bridle-path to Richisau is soon reached. Bej'ond Eichisau through two 
 gates, then straight on across the meadow, towards the pointed green hill, 
 winding up which the path is visible. 
 
 From Vorauen the highest peaks of the Wiggis-Chain (p. 293) may 
 best be ascended. These are the Scheye or the Hochscheyen [7090', route 
 across the Lower and (3'|2 hrs.) Upper Langenegg Alp., where the night 
 may be passed in case of necessity, in all 5 hrs.], and the Rautispitz (7494'), 
 a double-peaked mountain with a sharp ridge, easily ascended from Glarus. 
 (The Arve, or 'Alpine cedar", is found on the banks of the Ober-See, a 
 lake situated to the IST.) Beautiful view, especially towards the N. andE., 
 and to the S. , of the Glarnisch' (9587') , a mountain surpassed by none 
 in Switzerland in symmetry of proportion. From the Vrenelisgdrtli, its E. 
 extremity, it extends towards the W. and S.W. in two ridges, which enclose 
 an enormous basin filled with snow and ice. The N. ramification descends 
 precipitously, like a mighty wall of rock, into the Klonthal (see below), 
 whilst the S. ridge extends for a distance of 9 M. , its side being covered 
 with glaciers ; this also resembles a wall , terminating in the remarkably 
 formed, perpendicular precipice of the Badiistock, the highest point of the 
 Glarnisch group. — The Glarnisch may be ascended in 6 hrs. from the 
 Eonfmatl near Vorauen. 
 
 The Klonthal is a beautiful narrow valley, with few habita- 
 tions. Its meadows , of the freshest green , are carpeted with a 
 variety of wild-flowers until late in the autumn. To the 8. rise 
 the almost perpendicular precipices of the *Glarnisch (9587'), 
 with its seven peaks (see above). A small lake (2638'), 21/4 M. 
 long, IV4 M. wide, enhances the beauty of the valley; on its 
 clear surface every furrow on the side of the huge Glarnisch is 
 minutely reflected. (Boat down the lake, 1 to 10 persons li/ofr. ; 
 the passage takes 50 min.) An inscription on the rocks of the 
 Glarnisch, near a waterfall on the S. bank of the lake, perpetu-
 
 ELM. 77. Route. 305 
 
 ates the memory of the poet Sdlomon de^xner ^ who was in the 
 habit of speudinj? some weeks of the summer iii a chalet at this 
 plare. At the lower extremity of the lake a small inn. 
 
 Immediately below the lake the valley narrows into a gorge, 
 through which the Lontsch, a stream flowing from the lake, rushes 
 impetuously; at the point where it joins the Linth, below Nett- 
 stall , it forms a series of beautiful falls , amidst grand rocky 
 scenery, in a narrow deftle through which the road passes. 
 
 Carriage-road from Vorauen to Glarus (9 M., descent all 
 the way). Beyond the last gorge, 3 M. from the lower extremity 
 of the lake, the road divides near the direction-post, the 1. branch 
 leading to Nettstali, the r. to (^/^ M.) Riedern. which is l'/.2 M. 
 from Glarus (p. 293.) During the descent the views of the sur- 
 rounding mountains, the Fronalp-Stock., the Schild^ and the Frei- 
 berge (between the Linth and Sernf valleys), are very line. 
 
 77. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf- Thai. 
 
 Cojup. Map^ p. 292. 
 
 16 — 18 hrs. Diligence between Glarus and Schwanden 3 times daily 
 (p. 29'2), between Schwanden and Elm once daily in 3 hrs. — The pass from 
 Elm to Flims. 10 hrs., difficult, chiefly over loose stones, should only be 
 undertaken by good walkers, with an experienced guide (see p. '29i). Both 
 routes traverse hmely valleys ; views only at intervals. — From Flims to 
 Coire Diligence once daily in 2>|4 hrs. "; from Flims to Reichcnau is an 
 agreeable walk, but thence to Coire the traveller should take a carriage or 
 the diligence (3 times daily). 
 
 At Schwanden (p. 293), '^^|^ M. from Glarus, the Linth Valley 
 divides into two branches; that to 1. is the Sernf-ThaL, traversed 
 by an excellent road. Half-way u]) the valley is Enyi (2540'), 
 the principal village, with copper-mines; a picturesque waterfall 
 near it; 3/^ M. farther a line view of the Glarnisch is obtained. 
 Near Matt (2710'), the second village, a footpath leads N.E. in 
 7 hrs. to Mels and Sargans (p. 4.")), by the Krauchihal , the 
 Riesetengrat (7201'). the HirtentliaL, and the Weisstannentlud. 
 
 The slate- quarries of the Plattenberg. opposite Matt, on the 
 1. bank of the Sernf, arc celebrated for tlie beautiful specimens 
 of fossil ftsh frequently found in them. The lower part of the 
 valley is very unhealthy, and appears to engender cretinism. The 
 inhabitants of the upper part of the valley are an athletic race. 
 
 Elm (^3215') (*J. Elmer; guides see p. 294), 12 M. from 
 Scliwanden, is tlie highest village in the valley. A difficult path 
 leads hence E. to the (10 hrs.) charming WeisstannenthaL Mels, 
 and Sargans (see p. 45), by the Foo-Pass or the Ramina-Furklen 
 (7333') (from Elm to the summit of the Pass A^/.y hrs.). The 
 route to Pfaffers over the Sardona Glacier and through the Kal- 
 feuser-Tfud (p. 45), formerly dangerous, has been rendered prac- 
 ticable by the construction of a path (from Elm to Vattis 12 hrs.). 
 
 B.TiDEKER, Switzerland, oth Edition. 20
 
 306 Route 77. PANIX PASS. 
 
 Near Elm the valley ajirain divides. The shortest route to 
 Coire is over the Segnes or Flims Pass (861'2'J. To the 1. 
 rises the Segnes or Tschini/el-Spilz (10,870'). whence the two 
 great glaciers of Flims . the Senyia.-i Sura and the Senyias Sut. 
 descend into the valley. The path (somewhat hazardonsj traverses 
 the latter, passing the Martindoc.li , an aperture in the precipice 
 through which the sun shines on the church below twice in the 
 year. The path, very steep and fatiguing, then descends towards 
 the Orisons. 8 hrs. Flims, and thence to (T'/o M.) Reichenau, 
 see p. 307; from Reichenau to (B M.) Coire, see p. 352. 
 
 The above route is preferable to that over the Panix Pass 
 (7907') (Qualm da Pignu) to Ilanz (p. 308j, although the latter 
 is the easier. From Elm to Panix (^4265') (^'^Alix) 6 hrs., then<-e 
 to Ilanz 2 hrs.; from Ilanz to Coire 2O74 M. (see R. 78j. Thi.-, 
 route is interesting in an historical point of view , as by it tlie 
 Russians effected their celebrated retreat of the 5th to the 
 10th Oct., 1799 (comp. pp. 68, 297, 303). 
 
 After the almost incredible exertions and forced marches described in 
 tlie preceding routes , Smvarow remained passive in Glarus tor 3 or 
 4 days, to afford the remnant of his army the repose they so much needed. 
 Although the French continually harassed his van and rear, they ventured 
 to make no decided attack. So superior, however, were they in numbers, 
 that the veteran general was at length compelled to resort to the desperate 
 expedient of recrossing the Alps, by which means alone he could hope to 
 save his army from annihilation , and effect a junction with the Russian 
 troops in other parts of the Grisons. On Oct. oth he quitted Glarus. The 
 advanced period of the season, the hot pursuit of the French, the dis- 
 couragement of his own troops, all conspired to add to the difficulties and 
 dangers of the enterprise. The narrow path only permitted his soldiers to 
 advance in single file. In a line, many miles in length, the Russian army 
 ascended the r. bank of the .SVr»/, while some of the French sharp- 
 shooters followed them step by step on the opposite bank, and thinned 
 their ranks by their well-directed fire. The weather was, however, their 
 most dangerous foe: with the utmost difficulty only could the weary troops 
 drag themselves over the snow, already two feet deep. Many abandoned 
 the struggle in despair, and lay down hy the wayside to die, whilst otliers 
 lost their footing on the slippery paths, and disappeared for ever in the 
 abysses. Many of those who had succeeded in crossing the snows and 
 glaciers of the Panix Pass, from 70GD to S(X)0' high, perished in the dismal 
 gorges of the Karasca Alp , 2'|2 hrs. from Panix , on the so-called 'rock- 
 hewn' path, believed to have been constructed by the Romans. — Five 
 days and nights had this terrible march lasted, under almost incredible 
 difficulties and privations. On Oct. lUth . 1799, Suwarow at length 
 reached the valley of the Rhine and Ilanz. During the preceding 18 days 
 he had lost one-third of his force, by the attacks of the enemy and the 
 ellects of hunger and exposure. All his artillei-y and the greater number of 
 his horses were also sacrificed. He then marched unmolested through the 
 Valley of the Rhine into Bavaria, bivouacked beyond the Lech, and soon after 
 returned to Russia. The Emperor Paul, however, treated him with great 
 ingratitude, which so aft'ected his spirits that he died of chagrin, 3Iay 18th, 
 18(10. sixteen days after his return from one of the most memorable cam- 
 paigns upon record, in the 71st year of hi-^ age.
 
 n..-^^^*^ ^ • ig -^ ^^ ■>a 
 
 ^'''^:»&^ 
 
 > 

 
 307 
 
 78. From Coire to Andermatt. Oberalp. 
 
 Coiiij). also Map, p. 70. 
 
 593)4 M. Diligence (19 tV. GO c.) once daily in lo hrs.. startinj^ iVoni 
 Coire (1871) at 5. 50 a. in., arr. at Tions at 11. 40, where 1 lir. halt for 
 dinner, arr. at Dissentis at 2. 3(.», and at Andermatt at 6. ^U i>. m. From 
 .\ndermatt to Coire at tJ. 30 a. m., arr. at Dissentis at 10. 30, at Trons at 
 1'2. where 1 hr. halt for dinner, arr. at Coire at G. ::iO p. m. 
 
 One-horse carr. from ('oire to lieichenau G. to Ilanz 18 fr. ; two-horse 
 (o Keichenau 1'2. Han/, 40. Dissentis To, Andermatt (or Hospenthal) lif) Cr. 
 
 The Vorder-Rheinthal (\alley of the Khinej is one of the most beau- 
 tiful in 8wit/.erl;uid : the portion between lieiclienau and Dissentis witli its 
 numerous castles i^ reniarlialily picturesi[ue, especially wlien seen l»y tra- 
 vellers descending the valley. ihe Military Road, constructed in order 
 to connect the tit. (Jotthard route with that of the Furca, was completed 
 in 1864. The frame-work (liouuinsch '••/lisc/ini'' ). resembling ladders, so 
 freqtiently oliserved in the upper part of the valley, is i'mi)loyed in drying 
 the grain. 
 
 From Coire to 
 
 -M. Reichenau ( 192'2'), where the Vorder- and Hinter-Rlieiii 
 miite, see p. o5o. 
 
 From lleioheuau two routes lead to Jlaiiz. the shorter a path 
 on the right bank of the Vorder-Kheiii by (I1/2 ^^■) Honaduz 
 [• Pan-a-tots' = 'bread tor all'J, a Rom. Cath. village situated in 
 an extremely fertile district. (3^/4 M.j Versam^ with a lofty (^'26U') 
 bridge over the Savierbach or Rubiusu, (3 M.) Carrira. (^lV/2 ^I-j 
 VaUendas (^Innj. all German Prot. villages, (^4'/) -^i-j Klistris, 
 where cretinism is of frequent occurrence, and (l'/2 Si.) Ilanz. 
 
 At Versam the .Safienthal opens to the S.. through which an easy 
 pass leads to Spliigen by the Lochli Pass or Santrhei'j (8173'). The upper 
 portion of the valley, which scarcely merits a visit, contains the n»ost ex- 
 tensive pasturage of the <Misons. the Camaiia Alp. 
 
 The High Jioad on the left bank, preferable to the above- 
 mentioned path on account of the beauty of the scenery, ascends 
 to (^^/4 M.j Tamins ('2'244'j. Rom. Turnein. whence, especially from 
 the church, a tine view is obtained of the picturest|ue Jihdziin.'i 
 and the Domleschg (^p. 3j3J with its numerous villages, with the 
 siiowy summit of the Ph Carver (^9il3i'J in the background. Far 
 below tlows the Rhine between lofty banks. At [^i-^i^ M.) Trins 
 ('2'244') is situated the ruined castle of //o^en/r/;».<i. which attords 
 a tine panorama of the environs. 
 
 The road forms a wide curve on the N. ^lope.■^ . round a 
 mountain -basin. Refre^liments at the picturesquely situated 
 [i^ji M.) Trinser .l/ti/iie (^Mulins, '2615'). To the r. several watei- 
 falls are perceived, to the 1., surrounded by meadows ami pine>, 
 the small Trinser See, 
 
 7 ','._, M. Flims (3010') {'^Adler , at the lower end; Post, in 
 the centre; Braun. at the upper end of the town) deriving its 
 name ( ^ud /lumlna) from the numerous mountain-torrents which 
 descend from the precipitous rocks in the vicinity, is a small 
 and ancient town, with several strongholds of the former nobilitv . 
 I'lie path (p. 300), which leads 8. to the Seynes or Tsriiintjtl 
 
 '20*
 
 308 Route 7fS. ILANZ. From Voire 
 
 Pass and Glarns . here ascends the Segnes Valley: Hartmann 
 r. Bell- Mont fort is recommended as a guide. The Martinsloch 
 (p. 306) is also visible from this point. 
 
 The road now forms a cnrve towards the M^aldhriuser, (Hotel- 
 Pension Segnes. frequented in summer by families from Coire). As 
 the road emerges from the wood, the picturesque green Flimser See, 
 used for bathing by rheumatic patients, is perceived below to the 
 1., fringed with forest. At the chapel near Laax a glimpse of the 
 wild ravine to the 1. is obtained. Laax with its surrounding 
 mountains is another picturesque spot. The road soon descends. 
 Far below lies Sagens. The castle of Loirenberg , at the next 
 village of Schleuis (2507'). formerly the property of the family of 
 De Mont, has been converted into a Rom. Cath. Orphan Asylum. 
 
 63/4 M. llanz, Rom. Glnn (^Oberalp, on the r. bank, by the 
 bridge, line view, R. and B. 2 fr. ; Lukmanier ; one-horse 
 carr. to Dissentis 12 — 15 fr. and fee). me?itioned in a dociiment 
 of the 8th cent, as the 'first town on the Rhine', built on both 
 sides of the river . was the capital of the former 'Grey League' 
 (p. 288). The upper portion contains narrow streets, and an- 
 cient houses adorned with coats of arms. The population f056) 
 is chiefly Protestant, the language German and Romansch ; the 
 latter alone prevails in the upper part of the valley , above this 
 village. The situation of llanz is magnificent, affording vioAvs of 
 the valley of the Rhine in both directions , and of the broad 
 Lugnetz Valley. 
 
 The views are sujierior from the ancient Church of St. Martin (2410'), 
 situated 1(4 hr. to the S., on the 1. slope of the Lugnetz Valley, or from the 
 picturesque and still more elevated village of Luvis (3'28r)- A most mag- 
 nificent prospect of the Oherland of the Orisons, and especially of the Todi 
 chain to the X. , and of the Rhine Valley down to Zizers (p. 2^1 , is 
 commanded by the *Piz Mundaun , or Murdaun; the X. peak (6775') is 
 also termed Piz Grond. This mountain rises to the S. W. of llanz in 
 wooded slopes, above which extensive pastures reach nearly to the summit. 
 The path (3M2 hrs.. guide 5 fr.) leads by St. Martin (see above), through the 
 dense pine forest with which the steep mountain slope is clothed, to Luvis ; 
 it then ascends for a short distance along the S.E. side of the wood, 
 crosses a flat basin obliquely towards the 1., and reaches the conspicuous 
 (2»I'.>hrs.) lun. It next proceeds in the same direction through a depression 
 in the mountain to the crest, and traverses the latter until (1 hr.) the 
 summit is attained. The mediaeval chapel of S. Carlo remains on the E. 
 Those who have leisure should descend by Peiden (see below). — Travel- 
 lers proceeding to Dissentis , instead of returning to llanz , should select 
 the beautiful path leading through the district of Obersaxen, the principal 
 village of which is Met/erhof, whence Trons may be reached in 3 hrs. 
 
 i'he Lugnetz Valley, watered by the Glenner , 18 M. in length (pop. 
 Rom. Cath., of the Romansch tongue), one of the finest in the Grisons, is 
 at its entrance so narrow that it seems as though it could almost be closed 
 by a gate. The ravages of the inundation of 1868 were most calamitous here, 
 and the villages situated at the outlets of the narrow and profound side- 
 valleys were the greatest sufferers. Near the village of Eiein an extensive 
 land-slip took place: the little Baths of Peiden were covered with sand, and 
 the springs choked up. Xear Fuvth the valley divides : to the r. the Vrinthal 
 [accom. at the cure's at Vrin . whence a bridle-path leads bv the Greina- 
 Pass (7265') to Olivone, p. 313], to the 1. the St. Petersthal, through which
 
 to Andermatt. DISSENTIS. 78. lioule. 309 
 
 a much frequented bridle-path leads to Hintenhein and the Bernardino 
 tp. 36:5). St. Fetei\ or Vals am Platz ( Albin's Innj is the chief village of 
 the latter valley. 
 
 As (71/2 M.) Tavanasa [2707') ( Kreuz) is approached, the 
 road (on the 1. bank) eaters a narrower part of the Rhine Valley, 
 here termed Pardeila; it then leads on the r. bank as far as 
 liinkenberg, Rom. Ziynau (\vheve a torrent descending from the 
 Z(i fray ill Tobei has deposited a mass of rock, 400 tons in weight), 
 and near the chapel of Trons (see below) recrosses to the 1. About 
 3 M. beyond llanz the path to the Panic Pass, traversed by .Su- 
 warow in 1799 (p. 306), diverges to thj N. The view from the 
 embankment across the bed of the Paidxer- Bach is one of the 
 finest in the valley. The 1. bank, especially between llanz and 
 Trons, is remarkably picturesque, and is studded with numerous 
 chalets, villages, chapels, and ruined castles [Joryenhery near the 
 village of \V alien sbury, Rinkenbery above the village of that name, 
 Schlans , Freibery , and Crestatsch). A survey of all the Alpine 
 regions, from that of the most luxuriant vegetation to that covered 
 with perpetual snow, is also obtained. 
 
 Near Trons the Chapel of St. Anna stands on the r. side of 
 the road, on the spot where in March, 1424, the ^ Upper' or 'Grey 
 League' (Obere, or Graue Bund) was founded. The solemn oath 
 of the League was subsequently renewed at intervals of 10 years 
 \JoY the last time in 1778). The chapel was erected in com- 
 memoration of this event. The ceiling of the portico bears sev- 
 eral Latin texts. The frescoes , reneweij in 1830 , represent the 
 tirst institution of the league ( 1424 ) and the last renewal ( 1778). 
 At the si<les of these representations the history of the confede- 
 ration is recorded in doggerel verse. 
 
 12 M. Trons (^2820') [Krone; Hotel du Todi, 1). 2'/o fr.), 
 wliere diligence-passengers dine, is half-way between Coire and 
 Andermatt. The spacious hall of the former Statthalterei (^magis- 
 trate's residence), the property of the Monastery of Dissentis, is 
 decorated with the coats of arms of the different communities of 
 the Grey League, and of the magistrates since 1424. 
 
 The road now passes the villages of Rabius and Sumric 
 ('summits vicus'), the latter picturesquely situated on an eminence, 
 as its name intimates; the churchyard commands a tine view. 
 The portion of the road between tliis and Dissentis is remarkable 
 for tlie boldness of its construction, as well as for the lofty wooden 
 bridge (^223' long, 17U' high) which crosses the Russeiner Tobel 
 (^the valley ascending to the Todi, see below). From the (^'/o M.) 
 Stalusa Bridye a waterfall is visible. Near l)issentis . to the 1., 
 lie the ruins of the extensive castle of Castelberq , burned down 
 in 1830. 
 
 7'/i M. Dissentis (^3835') {Diserlinum, Disiert = desert), 
 liom. Muster ('.Monasterium') {*Krone; *Hotel Condrau, recently 
 renovated, opposite; Adler) is a market-town with a Benedictine
 
 310 Route 78. PTZ MUIJAUN. From Coire 
 
 Abbey, protected against avalanches by a forest. Soon after the 
 foundation of the Abbey in the 7th cent. , Christianity was 
 preached in the more remote districts of the Grisons. The 
 Abbots, enriched by liberal endowments, subsequently acquired 
 jrreat power in Khc-ptia. The Abbot Christian v. Castelberg . a 
 strenuous opponent of the Reformation . was created a prince of 
 the empire by Maximilian IT. in 1570. 
 
 The handsome buildiusrs of the Abbey are situated on an 
 eminence. The village church dates from 1712. Professor Condrau, 
 who resides at the Krone, is the editor of a Roraansch newspaper, 
 published here. 
 
 At Dissentis the MedeUer ., or Mittel - lihein . unites with the 
 Vorder-Rhein. A flne view is obtained of the Medelser Glacier 
 and the valley as far as Coire. from the Chapel of St. Aclettn 
 ^containing a well executed Madonna of the Ital. school) at the 
 entrance to the Acletta Valley, '/o hr. W. of Dissentis, to the r. 
 of the path to Sedrun. forming an appropriate termination of the 
 excursion to those who do not proceed farther. 
 
 The impo.sinjr pyramid of 'Piz Muraun (9oll')- to the S.E. of Dis.sen- 
 tis (guide 7 fr.). i.s best ascended (in 4 liis.) <in the S.W. side. The summit 
 command.« a i-cniarkalilv fine snvvev <if tlie mountains, more striking; than 
 tliat from the I'i/. :\rundniin (p. 3()8). 
 
 A tolerablv tiood path leads fnun Dissentis throufih the Medel.tet- 
 Thal l»y the Lukmanier (5838') to Olivono (p. 313), in 10 hrs. ; and 
 from it a more fatiguin'r. but at the same time interesting path diverges, 
 descending the Vol Piora to Airolo . in 10 hrs. (p. 81). — A difficult path 
 (10 — 12 hrs.) leads from the new bridge mentioned above into the Val 
 7iMsse/«, ascends to the Sandalp Pass (9210') between the Zes^e?" Todi or 
 Grap Gianni (10,072') on the ¥.., and the CatscJiamids (10,049') on the W.. 
 and descends on the X. <ide of the pass over the <S'a«d Glacier to the Upper 
 Sandalp. Thence to tlie Baths of Stachelherg. see p. 295. ■ — From Sedrun 
 (sec below) a path leads bv the bleak, rockv Striinserthal,ai\cl the somewhat 
 difficult Kreuzli Pass (7710') to Amstiig (p. 7G) in 6—7 hrs. The pass 
 is situated at the upper extremitv of the Strinisertlial to the 1.. towards the 
 W.. at the S. base of the Weitenalpstock (9872'). Guide (2—3 fr.. at the 
 •Krone" at Sedrun) only necessary as far as the point beyond the pass where 
 the Etzlibadt becomes visible, where it precipitates itself from the Spillav- 
 See to the W. Crossing the brook, the path remains on the W. l)ank as far as 
 the Chalets of Pfalma. The Etzlithal iinites with the Maderanerthal (p. 76). 
 At Bristeii., refreshments at the cure's (see p. 76). — Another pass to Am- 
 stag , which should only be attempted by experienced mountaineers, the 
 Briinn i Pass (8422'), leads up the Aclett'athal., traverses the entire Briinni 
 Glacier., and descends to the Maderanerifial (comp. p. 76) : 10 — 12 hrs. walk, 
 guide necessary. 
 
 The road to Andermatt (20 M.). at a lower level than the old 
 path . ascends the grassy valley of Tavetsch , leaving the hamlets 
 Acletta. Segnas . and Mompe Tavetsch (4584') to the r. From 
 the height, where the road enters a wood, a beautiful view of 
 the Dissentis district is obtained, especially striking when ap- 
 proached from Andermatt. The valley now contracts. The road 
 traverses woods and meadows . affording a pleasing prospect of 
 the infant Rhine and the lofty. >uow-clail uioujitains, which are 
 now approached.
 
 to Andermatt. SKDKIIN. T-V. Routt. '^\ 1 
 
 () M. Sedriin (4587'). known in this distiict by tlic name of 
 Tdvetsch (*Krone. rarriages to be hadj , is the principal village 
 of the Tavetsoh Valley. Tlie S. lateral altar in the rhiirch is 
 adorned with some curious ancient carving. Kreuzli Pass . see 
 above. 
 
 From Sedrun the road leads through Camischolas , passes 
 Rueras or S. Giacomo (good rustic inn '■Zur Oberalp'), crosses 
 the brook descending from the Val Milar , and soon afterwards, 
 near the hamlet of Dieni , that which issues from the V'al Giuf 
 (^both N. lateral valleys). To the I., on a rocky eminence rising 
 from a profound ravine , stands the ancient tower of Pultmengd, 
 a remnant of the residence of the Pontaningen family. 
 
 The so-called 's u m m e r - p a t h \ now almost disuseiL ascends the ridyie 
 whidi extends from the Crispalt (10,105'), passes above the villajic of C'jvV- 
 ixiiim wliii-li lies lielitw to the 1.. and the chalets of Milez and Srliaritm, 
 and ascends the richest pasture of the district. The path now skirts the 
 \er<;c of the m<Juntain-slope. commandinfr a fine view of the Tavetsch and 
 IMiine valleys, then turns to the r. into the bleak }'al Tcniis or TiaiJii.f, 
 locally termed Val Val, descends, and crosses the O'finiprr/ieiii, R(m). 
 \'a/a. (Travellers from Andermatt, after crossing this brook, must avoid 
 tcdlovvinp: its course: the path immediately re-ascends.) The path now 
 rajddly ascends on the <jpposite side of the vallev to the Pai<s da Tiarms 
 (T(X)7'). the openintr between the Pit Tiarms oV Berf/li filork (0564') on 
 tho X. and the Caltiiot (7598') on the S.. the base of whicli the hifrh roa«l 
 skirts (see below). The summit of the pass, which forms the boundary 
 i)etween the (iiisons (Oraubiinden) and I'ri . commands a fine view of the 
 \'ordcr-lihein Valley as far as the mountains of the Vorarlbergr (or 'country 
 ill front", i. e. to the "W.. '-of the Arlberg") and Rfeticon, the long chain of 
 the Alps of (ilarus, the aiuupt ridges which meet the valley of the Khine 
 at a right angle towards the S.. and the <S7.r Madun or liadiis (9610', ascent 
 see p. 79| to the S.W. Descending to the oberalpsee the pedestrian should 
 l)ear towards the 1. in order 1o avoid the marshv ground : from Sedrun to 
 the lake, where the two paths unite. 2i|-.. hrs. 
 
 'J'he road remains on the 1. bank of the A'order-lUiein , and 
 passes the Chapel of St. lirigitUi. below the above-mentioned 
 \illage of Cri.<pau.ia , and the poor villages of Selvci (o040') and 
 (-i .\I.) Chiamut, or Tschamut (5380') (Zur Rheinquelle) . which 
 consist of a few wooden huts and a chapel. Selva is so exposed to 
 avalancln's, and has been so freqtiently overwhelmed, that the in- 
 liabitants petitioned the Council of the Confederation in 1853 for 
 pi'vmission to abandon the place: this, however, was not accorded, 
 and the village is >till inhabited. Chiamut is probably the highest 
 \illag(' in Europe where corn ripens. The path crosses the (rdm- 
 nicrrhein ox Vdla (see below) at its inllux into the Vorder-Hhein, 
 ;inil farther on, opposite the chalets of Aldez on the r. bank. 
 liirns to the r. (N.W.) into the Val Surpalix between the Pi.r 
 \ur.-<ch(dlas (0002') and the Calmot. mentioned above. 
 
 Source of the Vorder-Rhein. Tlie Vorder-llhein takes its rise in the 
 Toma See (7G9U'). situate.l on the X.W. slope of the Six Mndiin or liadvs 
 (see p. 79). The path to the lake diverges to the 1.. a short distance above 
 till- influx of the Cammerrhein (see above), crosses thel>rook, which emerges 
 Irom the Val Surpali.x, near the chalets of Aldez., and ascends to the chalets 
 of Tgietlems and a pasture situated to the N.E. below the lake, on the 1.
 
 312 Route 78. OBERALP. 
 
 bank of the Vorder-Rliein, here termed the Aua da Toma. or Darvun. 
 Ascending the W. slope, irum which the infant river is precipitated, the pe- 
 destrian faces a small basin in which lies the deep , green lake , enclosed 
 on the S. and S.W. sides by precipitoxis rocks and detritus , and on the 
 ]S?. and X.W. by Alpine pastures. The Badiis (p. 79) cannot be ascended 
 immediately from the lake, the rocks being here too precipitous. The sum- 
 mit may, however, be easily attained in 2 hrs., if the ascent be made on 
 the X. side. Guide necessary. — Those who spend the night at Sedrun, and 
 are proceeding to AndermaU, are strongly recommended to select the route 
 (S'la hrs.) by the Toma See and over the Badus. 
 
 After the junrtioii of the three brooks at the chalets of Aldez 
 the river is first properly called the lihiiie. The road now tra- 
 verses pastures and ascends in zigzags to the summit of the 
 Pass ((i73'2'), where a stone marks the boundary betv.een the 
 Grisons and [ ri. The diligence ascends from Chiamut to this 
 point in 50 (descent 30) min. ; descent to Andermatt 1 hr. 10 min. 
 (ascent 2 hrs.) The road now skirts the N. bank of the green 
 and narrow Oberalpsee (G()G3' ; '/-i ^1- i" length), which abounds 
 in trout; its W. outlet is considered to be one of the principal 
 sources of the Reuss. On Aug. 16th, 1799, a sanguinary con- 
 flict took place here between the Austrians and French, which 
 resulted in the retreat of the former to the Grisons (p. G8j. 
 
 The road next traverses the nearly level Oberalp, and passes 
 some chalets (2 M. from the lake, 4 M. from AndermattJ, beyond 
 which a view is disclosed of the entire Lrsernthal, with the Inn 
 on the Furca (p. 137) in the background. The old path to (1 hr.) 
 Andermatt is considerably shorter than the road , but is rugged 
 and precipitous, and affords less view. The road now gradually 
 descends by nine long windings to 
 
 14 M. Andermatt (4730') f*//ofe^ St. Gotthard; Drei Koniyej. 
 see p. 79. 
 
 A good pedestrian will accomplish the ascent from Andermatt 
 to the summit of the pass (7 M.) more expeditiously than the 
 diligence. 
 
 79. From Dissentis to Bellinzona. Lukmanier. 
 
 Comj). Maps, j>P- 306, 76, 358. 
 
 To Olivone 9 hrs. by a bridle-path ; from Olivone to Biasca on the 
 St. Gotthard road bv diligence, once daily in 3 hrs., returning (asc nt) in 
 4iJ2 hrs. 
 
 The Lukmanier, with one exception (the Maloja, p. 3'2G) the lowest of 
 the Alpine passes from Switzerland to Italy, was crossed by Pepin and 
 Charlemagne with their armies in their campaigns against the Longobards. 
 The Abbots of Dissentis , who took this route into their special favour, 
 caused hospices and chapels to be erected by the way-side for the benefit of 
 travellers. 
 
 The path crosses the Vorder-Rhein and ascends rapidly to 
 Mompe-Medets (3963') and the mountain of Vergiera. The vil- 
 lage of Curaglia lies to the 1. , and a tine survey of the Medels 
 Glacier (Roman. Glitschkt da Medel) is obtained. Platta (4528') 
 {flnn at the cure's), the principal place in the valley, is reached
 
 LUKMANIER PASS. 79. Pioute. 313 
 
 in 2 hrs. from Dissentis. (Travellers from the Lukiuaiiier to 
 Dirisentis should observe that they must cross the brook to the 
 1., by the post-station at Platta.) The next village is S. Rocco, 
 prettily situated , then Bredaggio or Perdatsch (fiOSO'J. with an 
 inn. 
 
 Helow Perdatsf'h the Mittel-Rhein is precipitated from a rock, 
 upwards of 100 ft. in height, into a gloomy abyss; the roar of 
 the fall serves to guide visitors to this spot, wliich is at some 
 distance from the path. 
 
 To tlie S.E. of Perilatseli is tlie entranct; of the Cristallinenthal, the 
 pastures t»f which produce excellent cheese. It is rt-niarkalde fur its water- 
 la lis , especially in the Holleusihlund ( Vul L'Jieni), its glaciers, and its 
 -uunerous crystals. The valley is terminated l)y the I'iz Crixlallina (1U,262'), 
 surrounded by glaciers ; the ascent is difficult and requires experienced 
 guides. 
 
 The path next leads past the hospices of St. Gion (St. John 
 (r)298'J and St. Gull (ooU'j to (3 hrs., from Dissentis o hrs.) 
 Sta. Maria (o9'2r)'). the best of the o hospices, and affording toler- 
 able accommodation; its ancient name, ^Sancta Muria in luco 
 magno', seems to have given the jiame to the mountain and pass 
 ( •Lukmanier'), but all vestiges of wood have long since disappeared. 
 Like the other hospices, Sta. Maria is provided with bells, which 
 are riing in stormy weather to indicate the direction of the path 
 to travellers. 
 
 To the N.E. of tlie hospice, rises the -Scojy/ (10,499') ('Tachupi' 
 = summit or crown) from the midst of glaciers ; the stony ascent 
 fiiuu the hospice (4 — f) hrs.) is fatiguing, but unattended with 
 danger; extensive view of the Alps from the summit. 
 
 The path , ascending gradually to the r. , and commanding a 
 tine view of the peaks of St. Gotthard , leads in G hrs. by the 
 Vul Piora to Airolo (p. (SI). The gentle elevation to the 1. is 
 the Lukmanier Pass (0289'), whi(h the path to CUivone traverses. 
 A cross here indicates the boundary between the cantons of the 
 Orisons and Tessin. 
 
 The path now descends to the Zuru Vulley ; (^1 hr.) Hospice 
 of CusuccAu (r)97H'), more moderate than that of Sta. Maria. 
 (2 hrs.) Hospice of Cumperio (:59'29'). both founded by S. Carlo 
 Horromeo; (1 hr.) Olivone (2927') (*Steff<ino liollu), the highest 
 village in the Vul Blegno. The latter portion of the path is 
 badly paved, and leads through a forest, greatly thinned by 
 clearings. (Bridle-path to Vrin, see p. 308.) I'elow Olivone a 
 high-road descends the valley; district picturesque, occasional 
 waterfalls, tolerable inns. The road passes the mineral spring of 
 (0 M.) Acquu Itossii (1738'), and (I'/.j M.) Donyio (Inn, car- 
 riages). The entire valley is iniiabited by chestnut-roasters and 
 chocolate - vendors . who travel with tludr wares to all parts of 
 Kurope. At
 
 314 Route 'SO. I'IJATTRtAV. 
 
 14 M. Biasca (]>. S:!) tlie lUe.Lnio Valley floscc'iids to the 
 Hiviova (^Ticiiio ValleyJ. From Biasca to 
 131/4 M. Bellinzona, see p. 83. 
 
 80. Prattigau, Davos, Belfort, Schyn. 
 
 Coinp. Map. p. 336. 
 
 Diligence from the Landqiiavt railway-station to Davos once dailv. t<» 
 Kiiblis (24 seats at 2 fr. 20 c.) in 23)4 lirs.", to Davos-Platz (12 seats, at 
 "l fr. 80 c. from Coire) in 73,4 hrs. 
 
 A very attractive three days" excursion through beautiful, and in sonn^ 
 ]ilaces grand, scenery. 1st Day. From Coire or Kagatz to the I.andtiuai-t 
 station by railway aiid to Daroa-Platz by diligence, or only to Kiiblix by 
 diHgence"(on foot"from the I.andquart station to the Felsenbach Inn 2'j4 ^I., 
 :• sfrait-'ht. dustv. and shadeless road. Oriisch 2 M.. Schiers 2 M.. .Tenaz 
 :;i;i 31., Fiderisei- An 1 M., Kiiblis PU M.), on foot in 2i|2 hrs. to Kloxlers, 
 f hence in 3iJ2 hrs. to Davos, the last portion, if preferred, in a char-a- 
 bancs. — 2nd Day. On foot in X^n hrs. to Wieseii ■ 2^\i hr. village of 
 Mteneu , 2 hrs. Lem . in all 8M2 hrs. — 3rd Day. On foot in 4 hrs. to 
 Thuah. If the second day's walk appear too fatiguing, the traveller may 
 descend from the village of .\lveneu in ^n hr. (steep) to Bad Alvenen and 
 .■^(•end the night there. IVery pleasant excursion to £«/(//(// by Fili.'sur: that 
 part of the road termed the 'Bergiiner Stein' (p. 320), is scarcely inferior 
 to the finest parts of the Via Mala.] The 3rd day's excursion will then 
 be prolonged Iiy 3 hrs. . which may be accomplished , if preferred , in a 
 c!iar-a-bancs : On foot in 2 hrs. (carriage 1 hr.) to Tiefenkasteiu thence by 
 lan-iage to Thusis by the new Schyn road in 2 hrs. 
 
 The straight carriage-road from stat. Landquart (*Inn3 to the 
 Prattigau intersects the high-road to Coire near the small (3/4 M.) 
 inn *Zur oheren Zollbrilcke. by the bridge of that name across the 
 J.andquart. Tlie Kaiserruck. the extreme E. peak of the 8eveii 
 ('hurhrsten (p. 43). stands boldly out to the 1. in the background. 
 Near the ( I7.2 M. ) Felsenbach inn, at the entrance of the Prattigau, 
 the road crosses the Landquart (generally termed the Landwasserl, 
 and then traverses the Klus (a narrow rocky gorge, ^j^ M. long, 
 unsafe in winter) on the r. bank of the stream. On the summit 
 of the perpendicular rock . fragments of the ruined castle of 
 Fraystein ( Ferporta ) . which formerly commanded the mouth of 
 the gorge, are still visible. In 1799 the French were compelled 
 t^ make a detour in order to make themselves masters of this 
 detile . which was bravely defended by the inhabitants of the 
 (Jrisons. 
 
 The Prattigau ( Pratigovia , meadow-valley: Koni. Val Pratens) is a 
 fertile valley, especially rich in fruit-trees, and" in most parts narro\y. At 
 iis mouth, and in some other places, it is covered with a deposit of loose 
 stones brought down by the Landquart. Among the mountains which 
 inclose it are several snow-peaks. In its scattered habitations it somewhat 
 resembles the Canton of Appenzell . but its climate is milder and its soil 
 liiore fertile. In form it resembles the Emmenthal (p. 92) : the pasturage 
 i^ excellent, and the breed of cattle held in high repute. Population (Prot.) 
 about 10,000. German is spoken, but the villages, like those in the Tyrol, 
 have almost all Romansch names, that language having been formerly 
 .^-poken by the natives. To the X. of the valley rises the Ba^licon chain, 
 which divides the Prattigau from the Vorarlberg and Montafuner Thai 
 (p. 350). A number of passes , named ' Thore" or gates by the inhabitants
 
 r.ATirS OF FTDERIS. ^t>. Route. *^> 1 5 
 
 of fill- district, as the Seliwei/.cr-Thor. the DrusLiitln.r. etc.. travcrsf tl-is 
 cliain. These are. liowevcr , becorainfi less practicable every year from 
 landslips and the encroachment of glaciers. Only three of these pa.sses are 
 now used as a passage for cattle. 
 
 Ascent of the Scesaplana (9731'). the hieho-st peak <if the Ranticon cliain, 
 see p. 350. 
 
 Beyond the Kins the valley expands. The next village is 
 Panlhla (1081'"). 
 
 Carriage-road hence to (3'/,' 31.) Seewis ('Pension Scexaplana, 4 —5 fr.j, 
 situated on the pastures half-way up the hill, frequently visited by persons 
 in search of pure mountain-air. The village was almost entirely burned 
 down in 1S63. The poet Oaudenz de Salis-Seewis (d. 1834) is buried in the 
 cluirchyard here. 
 
 Sclimitten, with the ruins of the castle of Solaven . was tiie 
 birth -place of the last Count of Toggenburfr (p. 290). Griisch 
 ('2112') (*Krone) possesses several handsome houses in the Ro- 
 niansch style, adorned with paintings and balconies. The fnrim-r 
 residence of the Salis- Griisch family is now a parsonage and 
 school. Large dams were constructed in 1S4-7 and 184S across 
 the valley, by means of which it is hoped that the district de- 
 vastated by the Landquart may again be rendered tit for cultivation. 
 
 Schiers (22o7') (Krone; J^eue). 2 M. from Griisch. possesses 
 a Seminary and Reformatory for children. On April 24th. 1622. 
 the inhabitants of this village drove back a body of Austrians. 
 who had taken up their position in the cluirchyard. The female 
 jiortion of the population showed great heroism on this occasion, 
 ill memory of which they have since enjoyed the privilege of first 
 receiving the sacrament. 
 
 The road {^/^ M.) now crosses to the 1. bank of the river, 
 and follows its course through the narrowing vnlley to (3^/4 M. ) 
 Jenatz (2401') (Post; Krone) and (1 M. ) Fideriser Au (*Xi(jtjU. 
 generally much frequented by visitors to the baths). In the 
 Village of Fideris on an eniinence. 1 M. from the high-road, 
 stands a monument to the Counsellor Schneider, the 'Hofer* of 
 the Vorarlberg. erected by the Archduke John. 8. of the village 
 of Fideris (2959') is a large inn. the i)roperty of the owner of the 
 baths (see below"). 2 M. beyond lie the Baths of Fideris (3468'^. 
 situated in a gorge. 3 M. from the high-road. The waters are 
 considered beneficial in cases of consumption, and resemble those 
 of St. Moritz in the Kngadine (p. 329). but are less powerful. 
 The two bath-establishments are often crowded in summer: R. 2 
 to S'/o ^i"-. T). 2 fr. 70 c. pension 4'/.2 fr. From the high-road 
 to the village of Fideris a carriage - road . thence to the I'aths a 
 bridle-path, practicable for chars-a-bancs. 
 
 On a wooded eminence, opposite to Fideris. on the r. bank of the 
 Landijuart. formerly stood the castle of Castels, of which a few fragments 
 only now remain. For a long j^eriod it was the residence of the Austrian 
 governors of the district, but was stormed and destroyed in IG'2'2 by a body 
 of peasants armed onl_\ with sticks. 
 
 From Fideriser Au tlir mad skirt< the Landquart. traversing 
 a magnificent rocky and wooded gorge. On the height, the ruins
 
 316 Route 80. KLOSTERS.: Prattigciu. 
 
 of the rastle of Slrahlegg are visible, standing amidst the tir-trees. 
 The road now crosses by a covered bridge to the r. bank of the 
 Landquart, to Dalfazza, a village consisting of a few wooden 
 houses , belonging to the commune of Luzein which lies higher 
 up the mountain, and the picturesque village of Kiiblis (2097') 
 (Krone or Post). The new road begins to ascend near Kiiblis; 
 it passes through (i^/o M.J Saas (3'255'J, skirting the N. slope 
 of the mountain , and traverses several valleys with cascades to 
 (6 M.J Klosters. Views tine the whole way. 
 
 The pedestrian is recommended to follow tlie new and skil- 
 fully-constructed road beyond Mezza Selva (3445'), which diverges 
 near the post-stat. of Serneus , and crosses the Landquart by a 
 handsome stone bridge to the village of Serneus (^2^/2 M. from 
 8aasJ and (I1/4 M.) the Baths of Serneus (3232'), the sulphureous 
 waters of which enjoy a high reputation in the Orisons. (Charges 
 moderate; occasional visitors also received.) The path from the 
 baths to (3 M. ) Klosters crosses both arms of the Landquart, 1 M. 
 from the baths; a broader track, traversing beautiful meadows and 
 ascending gradually by the side of the stream , is then followed. 
 Beautiful retrospective view from the last eminence, towards the 
 W., embracing the Prattigau, with the snow-fields of the Scesa- 
 plana in the background. The beautifully vaulted Silrretta Glacier 
 bounds the valley on the E.; to the r. the Rogyenhorn (8268') 
 and &'aisr/iie/'cr (83o6'J, in the early part of summer covered with 
 snow, but afterwards green. 
 
 Klosters (3953') consists of 4 groups of houses, L'eberm Bach, 
 DorfU , Am Platz., and Bei der Brucke. The church is in Am 
 Platz, which possesses several handsome new houses [^ Hotel and 
 Pension Silvretta and Hirsch, belonging to the same proprietor, 
 both good, R. 2 — 3, B. 1, D. 2, Pension 4 fr. ; carriages may 
 be hired here. Pension at many of the private houses. — Christ. 
 Jann, Christ. Jegen , and Anto7i Schlegel are recommended as 
 guides, 6 fr. per day and food; to the club-hut 7, via Vereina 
 to Siis 11 , by the Silvretta Pass to Guarda 16 fr; — One-horse 
 carr. from Klosters to Davos am Platz 6 — 7 fr.) 
 
 From Klosters to Lavin and Siis several routes. The easiest 
 (8 hrs.) is by the >Siiser T/ial , over the Vereina- Pass (8140'), and through 
 the la/ Fle.ts to Siis (p. 337) (descent by Val Torta and Vol Sagliaiiis to 
 Larin not recommended). — A glacier pass (9—10 hrs.) , difficult , but 
 aft'ording a magnificent survey of the Silvretta Chain , leads through the 
 Vernela^ over the Laviner Jocli (9131'), between the Verstanclahovn (10,325') 
 and Plattetihorn (10,040'), and through the Val Lavbuioz (to the W. Piz 
 Linavd , p. 337) to Laviu (p. 337). — The Silvretta Pass traverses the 
 Silrretta Glacier (4 hrs. on the ice) and the Val Tnoi, leading in 11 hrs. 
 to Guarda (p. 337). On the Medjekopf, not far from the W. slope of the 
 Silvretta Glacier, o'Ja hrs. from Klosters, is situated the Silvretta Club Hut, 
 erected by the Swiss Alpine Club, with room for 18 persons. 
 
 The road from Klosters to Davos (12 M., char-k-bancs to Davos 
 am Platz 4 fr., in 2^/.,, on foot in 3'/2 hrs.) leaves the Landquart, 
 and ascends (pedestrians avoid tlie windings by short-cuts) for
 
 Davos. DAVOS AM I'LATZ. W. Route. 317 
 
 about 5 M. tlic KLostersche Stiitz, a wooded iiioiuitaiii which 
 separates tlie Prattijiau from the district of Davos. (2M.) Unter- 
 Laret ^4957'), a croup of chalets in a meadow, with the small 
 Schwarze See, {^/^ M.) Ober Laret, (i/, M.) St. Wolfgang, a 
 chalet on the summit of the pass f5340'). Then a gradual 
 descent; the road traverses a barren meadow in a straight line; 
 12 mln. a few chalets on the 1. . then along the bank of the 
 Davoser See (4805'; l'/4 M. in length), a lake of whitish-green 
 colour, abounding in tish, and drained by the Davo.'^er Landivds.ier ; 
 at the 8. extremity of the lake, 1/4 M. farther, is Davos-Dorfli 
 (Rossli; Hotel Fluela, both reasonable; Seehof), opposite the church 
 of which stands the handsome residence of the Landammann Buol. 
 
 {'2 M.l Davos am Platz (olOo') (*Schio€izerhof, *Post, both 
 new; *Carhaus Davos, R. '2 — 4, pension — 8 fr., all three good; 
 *Zum Strela , moderate ) . capital of the district and the ancient 
 confederacy of the ten jurisdictions, with picturesque houses 
 scattered among the meadows, has of late become a resort of con- 
 sumptive patients, who occasionally even spend the whole winter 
 here. Spacious '■Curhuus', R. 1 — 3fr., in winter more moderate; 
 Pension 4 fr. . bath 1 fr. The hall of the handsome Rathhaus 
 (*Restaurant on the ground-floor) contains ancient weapons and 
 other curiosities. Beneath the pediment are suspended the heads 
 of eleven wolves killed in this district. 
 
 Excursion to the Baths of Clavadel, at the entrance of the Serligthal, 
 and to the upjier extremity of the latter. The ascent of the Weissjluh 
 (5 In-s.), the Todtenalp, and the Piz Diiran is recommended to mountaineers. 
 
 The direct route from the F r ;i t t i <r a u , or I) a v o s , to the Upper- 
 Engadine is over the Scaletta Pass. From Davos-Dortli along the hijlh 
 road to Davos am Platic for a few hundred paces, then to the 1. into the 
 Dischnia-Tlial, l^li hrs. to the inn Iin Dilrrenbodeii, beautiful view of the 
 prlacier of the Piz Vadred (10,610') and the Schicarzhorn (10,338'). (The 
 ascent of the latter, 3 hrs. from the Diirrenboden , is precipitous and fa- 
 tiguing ; the view from the summit vies with that from the Piz Languard.) 
 The path now becomes rugged , but is perfectly safe •, (2 hrs.) Summit of 
 the Pass (S613') , where a hut affords shelter; view limited. Descent, 
 often precipitous , but rendered interesting by waterfalls and views of the 
 lateral valleys with their glaciers, to the Alp Foiilaua and through tiic 
 I'al Sulsaiuia to (3 hrs.) Sul.'^aitna (poor inn). After ^\i hr. to the r. (tlie 
 ]. leads to Zenietz) by Capella, in the Innthal, to (i|j hr.) Scan/s and (•!•_' 
 hr.) Ziiz (p. 336); the walk from Davos-Dorlli to Zuz thus occupies about 
 9 hrs. Those who spend the night at the indillerent inn of Diirrenboden 
 may ascend the pass in the cool of the morning, and thus reach Pontresina 
 (p. 331) the same day. 
 
 From Davos-Dijrfli to the Lower Engadine a road (c(»mpleted in 
 1867) leads over the Fluela Pass to Sits (p. 337), a distance of '12 M. (a good 
 carr. may be obtained at the postmaster's at Davos). A sombre and 
 sequestered valley is ascended. (11(4 hr.) JIdtel Alpeurose , then ('j-j hr.) 
 Tschuggen, an inn 1500' from the top of the pass. On the summit (7891') 
 (l')2 hs.) is a new mountain-inn, whence the Schicarzhoni (see above) is 
 frequently a.scended. Numerous windings then descend by the Si/saskabacfi, 
 commanding fine views of the Weisshorn , Schwarzhorii , and Grialetsch 
 Glacier, to (2^li hrs.) Siis. 
 
 Coire is 9 or 10 hrs. from Davos liv (he following fatiguing route: 
 Towards the W. over the Strela Pass "(7799') , then from Latiytcies , a 
 large jvillage half-way between Davos and Coire , along the picturesque
 
 318 Route 80. ALVENEU. Belfort. 
 
 N. slopes of the rugged Sr/m>i^fl'<j(/l/ial, watered l)y the Ples.iiir, thnmgh 
 Peixf, corap. p. '290. 
 
 The District of Davos (Rom. darous = beliind), an elevated 
 Alpine valley, about 14 M. long, with 172G inhab. (24 Rom. Cath.j, 
 consists of meadows, with scattered dwellings , cattle-sheds , and 
 a few corn-lields. It is enclosed by wooded mountains, and 
 watered by the Landwasser. The f) chu relies of the valley serve 
 as centres, round which cluster tlie dillereiit groups of houses 
 named DorfJi. Am Platz (or St. Johann am Platz), Frauenkirch, 
 Glaris. and Monstein in a lateral valley. I ntil 1848 the district 
 formed one of the 26 sovereign jurisdictions of the Grisons (^p. 288j. 
 
 The road now crosses several torrents , and skirts the Land- 
 wasser, by which it is often inundated. It improves, however, 
 at (3 M.) Frauenkirch, a small village on a slight eminence. 
 The valley now contracts; 2 AI. Spinerbad , witii mild sulphu- 
 reous springs ; the Bath-house, unpretending, but good, stands on 
 the 1. bank of the Landwasser (frequented by families from Coire 
 during the summer). ^4 M. Glaris (4773'). Then through a 
 wild and desolate valley to the {}l^/i M. ) Schmelzboden Hoffnun<jsau, 
 lead and zinc-mines, abandoned since 1847 (Inn). 
 
 The road, now more practicable for carriages, but very narrow, 
 skirts the Landwasser for a short distance . and crosses it by a 
 bridge. It then enters a narrow and rocky gorge, V2 ^^- iJ' 
 length, with interesting dislodged strata, the boundary between the 
 Jurisdictions of Davos and Belfort. The road winds upwards, in 
 many places supported by masonry, for about 2 M., and reaches 
 a plateau which commands a charming view of tlie beautiful greeji 
 valley; to the 1. Jenisberg (5013'), a village, situated on sunny 
 meadows above; to the r. the village of Wiesen. larches of bril- 
 liant green in the foreground; in the rear towers the Tinzenhom 
 (^10,279'); adjacent to it. to the E., the Piz d'Aela or R<i(jnulz 
 (10,899'), to the W. the Piz St. Michel (10,377'). 
 
 Wiesen (4773') {*Inn; accommodation if necessary at the 
 cure's) , a Prot. village with German population , apparently not 
 more than a gunshot distant, is really 3 M. farther. The road 
 skirts the brow of the mountain . and profound gorges . hollowed 
 by the action of torrents. 
 
 Beyond the village another extensive ravine, the Tiefentobel, 
 with several shafts of abandoned mines, is skirted. The bright 
 green larches enhance the beauty of the landscape. The (;hurch 
 of (3 M.) Schmitten (4345') (Rom. Cath. and Romansch) , situ- 
 ated on a grassy eminence, is visible from a long distance. 
 
 The footpath to the r. , below the church , which descends into the 
 valley , reaches Filism- {p. 320) just before the bridge. Pedestrians pro- 
 ceeding to Bergiln (p. 321) thus avoid the digression by Alveiteu^ and ellect 
 a saving of 1 hr. 
 
 On the road to the Romansch village of (1 7-2 ^- ) Alveneu (4345') 
 (Rom. Cath.) a view is obtained of the upper part of the valley 
 of the Albula , between which and the Landwasser rises tlje
 
 Schyn. ■ SCHYNPAS8. HO. Route. 319 
 
 Stulaergrat (8389'}, a mountain resembling the Niesen(p. 10'2); 
 in tlie background a portion of the ALbulastock (Piz L'ertsrhi. 
 Near Alveneu on the r. are vast numbers of fragments of rock, 
 partially overgrown. 
 
 On the W. side of the village a road descends to (!2'j4 31.) the Batli.s 
 of Alveneu (p. 320), situated 1828' helow. on the Albiila or Mn-a. K.\- 
 iiiision to HcTiiiin, see p. 320. 
 
 The road which the traveller follows now skirts tlie slope of 
 the mountain , at nearly the same level . and jjasses at the base 
 of the picturesque and imposing ruined (JasUe of lielf'nrt. scvimjiI 
 storeys of which are still standing, situated on an almost inac- 
 cessible rock , whence the jurisdiction of lielfort has derived it< 
 name. (3 M.) Brienz, with an ancient tower, formerly the j)r(i- 
 perty of the De I'orta family. The road again ascends to (3 M.| 
 Lenz (433'2') (Krone), see p. 32*2. 
 
 From Leii/. the road passes below the village of Obervatz, 
 situated on a fertile slope, and consisting of the hamlets of Zorlcii, 
 Lain, and MuLdain; it then reaches the (3 M.) top of tlie 
 mountain; *view hence (E) of Alvaschein on the new Schyn 
 route (p. 354-), and the Albula , which flows througii a rocky 
 gorge 050' below, and (W.) the distant Hein/.enberg (p. 353). 
 In the neighbouring gorge, near the bridge over the Heide-Barh. 
 which descends from the Lake of Vatz (p. 322), a small inn i< 
 situated. (Those who come from the valley of the Albula by 
 Airaschein . p. 354, should take the path to the 1. by the mill 
 wiiich stands oil a level with the Soils bridge over the Albnla ; 
 those who come from Thusis turn to the r. beyond the chapel 1. 
 
 The path then descends for a short distance, enters a pine- 
 forest, and soon reaches the "^'SchynpasB (Rom. Milras). .i narrow 
 ravine, 3 M. in length. The path is partly cut tlirough thf 
 dark slate rock , and partly supported by masonry. On the r. 
 is a lofty precipice, on the 1. a profound abyss. At the W. 
 extremity of this defile the path descends, passing the ruined 
 castle of Campi , picturesquely situated on the 1. bank of tin* 
 Albula; the wide and populous valley of the Rhine, Sils, Thusi^:. 
 and the Johannis-Capelle (p. 355 j now become visible. 
 
 The Carriage Road, completed in 1801). follows the 1. bank 
 of the Albula. 
 
 Tliusis now appears so near, that the traveller is tempted to 
 take one of tlie footpaths which descends to the 1. in the direction 
 of the village ; these, however, all terminate in a precipice upwards 
 of 100 ft. in depth. (In the reverse direction the following path 
 effects a saving of nearly I hr. : from the bridge of the Albul.i 
 ascending the course of the stream for 5 min., then across mea- 
 dows, at length reaching the bridle-path above: a boy should bf 
 taken as a guide as far as the bridle-path.) 
 
 From {2 hrs.J Scharans the road crosses the Albula. and then 
 turns to the r. (on the precipice to the I. is Schloss Hiddeii.<tein,
 
 320 Route SI. BERGUNER STEIN. 
 
 still inhabited), without passing tljrough Sils ; then to tlie 1.. past 
 tlie gardens of the village, to the two-arched bridge over the rapid 
 Rhine (the grey water of which is discoloured on tlie r. bank by 
 the black NoLla), and across this to (*/2 'hr.) Thusis (*Via Mala; 
 *Adler), about 4 brs. walk from Lenz (see p. 354). 
 
 Travellers who wish tu reach the Julier-Route (R. 82) from Thusis, 
 may select a still shorter path with a fine view, diverging from the Schyn 
 road and passing through the villages of Mtitten and Stiirvis , situated to 
 the S., in the midst of sunny meadows opposite the Schyn, and high above 
 it; the path then gradually descends along the W. side of the Oberhalbsteiu, 
 passing through Mons., Sa'litx., and Confers (p. 323) ; a walk of 8 hrs. in all. 
 
 81. From Coire to Ponte Umd Samaden) in the 
 Engadine by the Albula Pass. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. 336. 
 
 45 M. Diligence from Coire to Ponte once daily in 11 hrs., fare 
 12' |-2 fr. (to Samaden in 113|4 hrs., fare 13 fr. 40 c.) ; to Bergiin , where 
 passengers dine, in 7iJ2 hrs. 
 
 A most interesting route ; beautiful mountain-scenery. The pass itself 
 is a wild chaos of stones and rocks. 
 
 From Coire to (18 M.) Tief enkasten , see p. 323. (Direct 
 route from Lenz to Bad Alveneu, see p. 322.) 
 
 Beyond Tiefenkasten the road ascends the r. bank of the 
 Albula, and passes (2 M.) Surava (2956') and (2 M.) *Bad 
 Alveneu, the sulphureous springs of which are in great repute 
 with the inhabitants of the Grisons (R. 2, A. 1/2 ^^- i one-horse 
 carr. to Bergiin in 2 hrs., 5 fr.); on a steep eminence to the 1. 
 stands the ruined castle of Belfort. On the opposite bank of 
 the Albula , a picturesque cascade is formed by a stream which 
 falls into that river. Between Bad Alveneu and (3 M.) Filisur 
 (3474') (Risch; Schmidt) the road crosses the Landwasser of Davos 
 (p. 317), and beyond Filisur the Albula, which it then skirts, 
 traversing a picturesque rocky and wooded district. High above 
 Filisur stand the ruins of the castle of Greifenstein. (274 ^•) 
 Bellaluna (3553'), a disused iron-foundry. 
 
 Beyond the bridge the road ascends to (I^-t ^I-) tlic *Bergiiner 
 Stein, a profound and narrow wooded ravine, on the E. side of 
 which, 650' above the Albula, a road 800 paces long, and 4—5 
 feet wide, was constructed in 1696 by blasting the rock. The 
 precipice occasionally overhangs the road, which is protected by a 
 wall at the side. During the wars of 1799 and 1800 the Austrians 
 and French transported their artillery through this ravine. The 
 new and broad post-road was completed as far as Bergiin in 1860 ; 
 it commences the ascent of the hill considerably before the old 
 route on the 'Stein', and traverses a wood; pedestrians effect a 
 considerable saving by following the old road in a straight direction. 
 The ravine, the brook in which is visible at one point only, ex- 
 pands into a green valley, surrounded by snow -clad mountains.
 
 ALRULA PASS. SI. Route. ^21 
 
 Tn this valley lios the handsome Prot. Roniajisrh village of fl'/o M.) 
 Bergiin (4557'), Rom. Bravuogn (Hotel Piz Aela, Pension 4 fr. ; 
 Cloettn). The tower in the centre of the village serves as a 
 prison. Ancient church. 
 
 The road (completed in 1865) now ascends gradually, passing 
 a series of beautiful waterfalls, the finest of which is that of the 
 Alhuln near the (3 M.) chalets of Naz. A group of chalets is 
 reached 21/4 M. farther (where the ascent commences, the path to 
 the 1.. below the chalets, ascending in a straight direction, effects 
 a saving). A short distance farther the *Inn on the Weisnenstein, 
 Rom. Crap Alv (6824'). situated at the base of the three nearly 
 perpendicular rocky peaks of Giumels, is attained. Beyond this 
 the road, partially supported by masonry . ascends very gradually 
 in a wide curve at the base of the Albulastock. It passes a few 
 traces of an ancient Roman road , and enters the Teufelsthal , a 
 valley strewn with fragments of rock brought down by avalanches. 
 The route from the "Weissenstein to the (3 M.) summit of the 
 Albula Pass (7589') traverses a barren and stony wilderness. 
 '■9e Alhula fossae cosi longa come Bernina non passerebbe ne gallo 
 ne gallina ('if the Albula Pass were as long as the Bernina, 
 neither cock nor hen would be able to traverse it') is a popular 
 saying amongst the inhabitants of Poschiavo (p. 341). The sum- 
 mits of the Albulastock rise on both sides; the S. peak consists 
 of granite, the N. (the Piz Uertsch . 10,800') of limestone-rock. 
 
 Beyond the pass , which is the watershed between the Rhine 
 and the Inn , the road gradually winds downwards , commanding 
 fine views of the distant Piz del Diavel , of the white houses 
 of Ponte, of Madulein on the motintain to the 1., and of the Piz 
 Languard to the r. 
 
 Ponte (5548') is 6 M. from the summit of the pass. Thence 
 to Samaden , and by Schuls to Martinsbruck and Nauders , see 
 P. 336. 
 
 82. From Coire to Samaden by the Julier. 
 
 Comp. ^faps, pp. 336, 358, 326. 
 
 521 [2 M. Dili pence in summer twice daily in 13 hr.s., faro 16 fr. 90 c. ^ 
 coupe-seats not. easily obtained during the season of the Baths of St. Moritz 
 (p. 329) ; places should be secured as early as possible. — Two-hor.se carr. 
 from Coire to St. Moritz or Samaden 120 fr. — To prevent disappointment 
 rooms should be previously ordered by telegraph at one of the inns of the 
 Upper Enpadine. 
 
 From the Steinbock Hotel at Coire (1935') the road winds 
 upwards, commanding a variety of charming views of the town, 
 the valley of the Rhine, and the Calanda. (The windings of the 
 road are avoided by a footpath which ascends through the wood 
 after the fourth turn.) The Schanfigg, intersected by the deep 
 channel of the Plessur, opens to the E. High up, along the N. 
 side of this valley, runs the path to Davos mentioned at p. 317. 
 
 R^EDEKEK, Switzerland. 5th Edition. 21
 
 322 Route S-2. I.KXZ. From Cnhe 
 
 About i'/.jM. from f'oire a finger-post indicates tlie route (1/j to 
 the saline Baths of Pasohugg . romantically situated in a gorge 
 resembling the Via Mala (interesting excursion of 41/2 M. from 
 Coire). The road ascends, following the course of the Rabiusa, 
 which flows into the Plessur far below, near an extensive manu- 
 factory; it then passes Molix (mineral spring) and the ruined 
 castle of Strtissherg , situated on the mountain of that name, 
 on the summit of which stands the boundary-stone of the three 
 Leagues (comp. p. 288). 
 
 672 ^i- Churwalden (3976'j (Post), picturesquely situated in 
 a narrow valley, is frequented for the whey-cure; it possesses an 
 ancient church, and the suppressed monastery of Aschera. 
 
 Parpan (4937') (^*Post; *H6tel ParpanJ, V/^ M. higher, is a 
 pleasant Alpine village in an open situation. The mansion of the 
 Buol family contains a number of old family-portraits. 
 
 The Staetzer Horn (8458'). now a favourite point of view, is the 
 highest point of the muuntain-ridge whic'i separates the valley of Chur- 
 walden from the Domleschg (p. 353). It is ascended from Parpan in 3 hrs. 
 by the new bridle-path, constructed by the Swiss Alpine Club 5 guide 
 unnecessary. Grand panorama of the valleys of Schanligg, Churwalden. 
 Oberhalbstein, Schams, Domleschg, and Vorder-Khein (as far as Ilanz): 
 of the entire Rseticon Chain, Calanda , Todi , St. Gotthard , Piz Beverin. 
 Rheinwald Glacier. Tambohorn, Beruiua, Albula, etc. Beautiful pastures 
 and rare plants on the slope of the mountain. The descent to tlie valley 
 of the Rhine (and Thusis) f»n the Donilesclig side is more fatiguing, especially 
 tlie latte.i part, and longer, but cannot be mistaken. 
 
 The summit of the pass (5088') is soon readied: retrospective 
 view of the Calanda. The view in front is also very tine, 
 embracing the mountains between Oberhalbstein and the Vat 
 Nandro, to the r. the mountains above the Schyn Pass (p. 319), 
 to the 1. the beautiful Lenzer Horn, (9544'), adjoining whicii, 
 farther down, is the Piz St. Michel (10,371'). The road then 
 passes several small lakes and the more considerable Lake of Vatz, 
 surrounded by forest: it then intersects the Lenzer Heide (Rom. 
 Pianeira), a stony tract, covered with fir-trees and brushwood, 
 a locality dreaded during the prevalence of snow-storms. (^Pedes- 
 trians proceeding to the Schyn Pass quit the road here and turn 
 to the r.) 
 
 8 M. Lenz (4331'), Rom. Lensch (Krone)., a Rom. Cath. village, 
 was considered an important military position before the con- 
 struction of the 8pliigen route. The Due de Rohan in 1635 
 (comp. p. 182), and Lecourbe in 1799 took up a position here 
 against the Austrians. (Beautiful walk through the Schyn Pass 
 to Thusis see p. 319. J 
 
 Direct route from Lenz to Bad A 1 v e n e u and B e r g ii n 
 (comp. p. 320) . The traveller quits the road '|4 31. from Lenz and turns 
 to the 1. to (40 min.) Briem (p. 319); here the path turns to the 1. before 
 the fountain in the middle of the village, then, beyond the village, de- 
 scends to the r. ( the path in a straight direction leads to the village of 
 Alveneu, p. 318) in 25 min. lo the high-road above Si/rara. Thence to 
 BaU Alvtiieu and Ber^un-f see p. 320,
 
 to .^nwnden. TIEFENKA8TEN. ^2. Route. 323 
 
 The mad now winds downwards to the (3M.) Albula . coin- 
 inandinji a line view the whole way of the Oberhalbstein , and, 
 lower down, of the iiein/.enberg, which rises above the 8«-hyn Pass 
 to the W.; in the foreground is the village of ALraschein on an 
 eminence, and the ridge of the Schyn Pass with the chapel and 
 the village of Stiirvis(p. ij'20); below, to the K. of Tiefenkasten, 
 is the confluence of the Albula and the Oberhalbstein arm of the 
 Rhine. Near the farm-house of Vazerol , on the r. of the road, 
 the three Leagues of Upper lihajtia took the oath of eternal union 
 in 1471 (comp. p. 288). Pedestrians should avail themselves of 
 the footpaths which cut off the windings of the road. At 
 
 0V2 '^I- Tiefenkasten, properly Tieftnkastel^ Horn. Chaste 
 (i. e. castle) I '^^ Hotel Albula, K. I'/.j. 15. IV4, A. ^j-ih., post and 
 telegr. office ; Hotel and Pension Julier, opened in 1870 ; Kreuzj, 
 the road crosses the Albula ('2U17'J. The village lies pictu- 
 resquely in a deep valley. The church (28'25'J on an eminenc-e 
 has a portal adorned with painting. 
 
 Again a rapid ascent; then along the brink of the Stein 
 (;jrj04'j, a bold precipice of limestone rock. Far below Hows the 
 Oberhalbstein Rhine. (In the liomansch language the word Rhein 
 means a flowing stream: Oberhalbstein, Rom. sur Seissa, supra 
 saxum, above the rock.) About A^o M. farther the Oberhalbsteiner 
 Thai., a wide and populous green valley, about 6 M. in length, 
 is entered. On the road are the villages of Burrein (39U1'J, 
 Conters (Kveuz: Taube), Schweininyen (Savoynin), Tinzen ( Tinizum, 
 4221)': Krone, 8tern). above which the Oberhalbstein Rhine 
 forms several picturesque waterfalls. On the broad slopes to the 
 W. are also several villages: Saliix (above which is the isolated 
 pilgrimage-chapel of Zitail) . Priisanz, Reams, with a handsome 
 castle of tiiat name (now used as a prisonj below it, etc. The 
 road (constructed in 1837 — 40) traverses several remarkable val- 
 leys of circular form, formed probably by inundations; in some 
 parts it bears a faint resemblance to the Via Mala (p. 3r)5j. The 
 inhabitants are Romansch and Rom. Cath. ; in the lower part of 
 the valley, however, German is commonly spoken. 
 
 Beyond Tinzen the road again ascends through a rocky detile 
 with several beautiful cascades , and near the poor village of 
 Roffna attains a second terrace of the valley, consisting of alluvial 
 meadow-land, beyond which another magnitlcent gorge is entered. 
 On quitting the latter, the traveller reaches the strikingly pic- 
 turesque village of 
 
 12 M. MoUns, Germ. Mxihlen (4739'j (*Lyu?<;, R. 2, B. 1, 
 1). 21/.2, L. I.) fr.; the diligence halts here for dinner, 21/2 t'r.). 
 The route hence to 8talla is replete with interest for the pedes- 
 trian ; it skirts the Oberhalbstein Riiine, and presents a succession 
 of rocky landscapes. 
 
 On a beautiful wooded enunence, in the middle of tlie valley. 
 
 21*
 
 324 Route 89. .TULIER. 
 
 between the road and the Rhine, stands the square watch-tower 
 of the castle of Spludatsch, in tolerable preservation , the view 
 from which repays the ascent. Near (3 M.) Marmorera (Marmels, 
 5361'). in a grassy valley, to the r.. rises the picturesque ruined 
 castle of that name, situated on an eminence , in a rocky cavity 
 half-w^ay up the hill . ]but not easily distineruished. The next 
 villages are Stalvedro ( bQiS' ^ , Stalla (Stabulum. 5839') (*Inn). 
 or Bivio (Bwium , double-way , so named because the road over 
 the Julier . and the bridle-path over the Septimer unite here). 
 This insignificant village possesses two churches, one Rom. Cath.. 
 the other Prot. ; it is surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains, 
 and so barren is the soil of the bleak valley that even potatoes 
 seldom attain maturity. 
 
 The Bridle- Path over the Septimer (unattractive ; t£uide unneces- 
 .^ary in fine weather ; to Casaccia 3i|'2 hrs.), one of the oldest Alpine routes, 
 traversed in ancient times by Roman and German emperors with their 
 armies, is now little frequented. It diverges from the road at the S. end 
 of the village, to the r., running for some distance parallel with the latter; 
 near ( 1 hr. ) a group of houses the brook is crossed, some occasionally 
 marshy meadows are travev.sed to the r.. and after a moderate ascent the 
 summit (7582") of the pass is attained (2 hrs. from Stallal. An eminence 
 to the 1.. above the latter, indicated by two stones, commands a mag- 
 nificent prospect of the indented snow mountains, of Piz della Margna 
 (10,361'), Piz Fora, Monte d'Oro (10,253'), and Piz Muvetto. The path on 
 the summit is for a short distance level, passing a dilapidated hospice; it 
 then descends rapidly, principally by the old paved military road, to- 
 wards the 1., the latter portion stony and precipitous, to (13|4 hr. from the 
 pass) Casaccia, or Casatsch (p. 362), the highest village in the Val Bregaglia 
 (tolerable inns). 
 
 The road, completed in 1827, now turns towards the E., and 
 by innumerable windings ascends the bleak and stony slopes of 
 the Julier (Giulio). The summit of the pass (7503') may be 
 reached on foot in IV2 ^i'-i t)y avoiding the windings; a carriage 
 takes 2 hrs. , descent barely 1 hr. Near the summit is an inn 
 f'Berghaus'), from the roof of which icicles frequently hang in 
 the early part of summer. From the end of October to the end 
 of May the route is usually traversed by sledges only, although 
 the Julier is the first clear of snow and the least exposed to 
 avalanches of all the Alpine passes. 
 
 On the summit of the pass are two round pillars of mica- 
 slate, 5' in height , without inscription , conjectured to be mile- 
 stones, erected under Augustus, who constructed a military road 
 from Clavenna fChiavenna) to the Curia Rhaetorum (Coire) over 
 the Maloja and the Julier. Others maintain they are of Celtic 
 origin, and the remains of an altar dedicated to Jul , god of the 
 sun. Some Roman coins were found in their vicinity in 1854. 
 On the ridge of the pass near these pillars, to the r., is a small 
 clear lake, which contains fish, notwithstanding its great altitude. 
 
 In summer large flocks of R e r g a m a s q u e sheep are usually met 
 with on the slopes and heights of the Julier, as on all the S. mountains 
 of the Grisons. The shepherds (pasiori) in charge of them come chielly 
 from the Seriana and Brembana valleys and Ticino ; they are a rough,
 
 UPPER ENGADINE. fi3. Route. 325 
 
 tree-spokeu race, bat honest and trustworthy. Theii personal appearance 
 is sut'liciently remarkable; they wear long curling locks, mantles of brown 
 or white wool, and brown peaked (Jalabrian hats. Their food consists 
 solely of a pottage of luai/e-llour and water (poltnta), and a little cheese. 
 They arrive in June with their docks in a miserably lean condition, in 
 consequence of their long journey, and leave again at the end of August, 
 when their sheep present a vastly improved appearance, and are covered 
 with long wool, which is reauily purchased by the manufacturers of 
 Bergamo. It is estimated that during the summer 4u,U;0 sheep are thus 
 brought to graze on these lofty pastures ; the proprietors pay i fr. per 
 head for the right. 
 
 On the E. slope of tiie Julier , 1 M. below the summit, lies 
 the small Julier Alp, on which are two chalets. The road runs 
 between continuous lofty precipices. On approaching Silvaplana 
 and the lake, a magnificent view is obtained of the fields of 
 snow and ice on the Bernina (^p. 331 J. The diligence descends 
 to Silvaplana in less than 1 hr. 
 
 15 M. Silvaplana (5957'), see p. 328. [Excursion to the 
 Maloja (J^i-> M., one-horse carr. 6 fr.), magnificent view of the 
 Val Bregaglia, see p. 362]. From Silvaplana to 
 
 TV., M. Samaden (^5600'), see p. 33u. 
 
 83. The Upper Engadine from the Maloja to 
 
 Samaden, Pontresina and its Environs. 
 
 Piz Lang'uard. 
 
 Fi'om Maloja to Sils 4i,-.' M., Sils to Silvaplana 3 31., Silvaplana to 
 St. Moritz 4i|j Jl., St. Moritz to Samaden i 31., St. 3Ioritz to Pontresina, 
 passing by the Lake of Statz, 4'i2 M. Carriages almost everywhere to be 
 had. The commonest wine in the Engadine is that of tlie Valttllina 
 (p. 342), half- bottle TO c. to 1 fr. and upwards; other Italian wines and 
 Markgratler are alsr) consumed \ beer generally good. 
 
 The Engadine {Oeni- (jadina, Upper Valley of the Inn), a 
 valley 5? M. in length, and seldom more than 1 M. in width, 
 extending from 8.W. to N.E., is watered by the inn. its green 
 pastures, 5799' above the level of the sea at 8ils , and 5343' 
 near Martinsbruck , are surrounded by the loftiest mountains of 
 the Orisons: to the N.W. the Engadine Alps, to the 8.E. ti»e 
 Bernina chain , the snow-tields and glaciers of which are among 
 tiie most extensive and magniticent in Switzerland. The Upper 
 Engadine between the xVlaloja and Samaden , witli its numerous 
 lakes, is the most beautiful part of the district; beyond Samaden, 
 in the Lower Engadine [a broad , grassy valley, surrounded by 
 pine-clad hills) the beauty of the mountains alone varies the 
 otherwise monotonous landscape. 
 
 The climate of the Upper Engadine between Sils (p. 327) and Puntota 
 (p. 336) is very inclement, resembling that of the N. of Sweden or Finland. 
 The cultivation of corn is unknown, and tillage generally very uncommon, 
 e.xcept at 31aria and Pontresina, where a few small gardens, miserable 
 potato lields, a few patches of oats, and in very favourable seasons a little 
 rye, is all that greets the eye of the traveller. In consequence of the al- 
 most entire want of straw, the litter for the cattle is composed in winter 
 of long grass, moss, or the dried branches of pine-trees.
 
 3 26 Route 83 . MA LU J A . Upper 
 
 The atraospliere is su dry. that meat may be preserved solely liy 
 its influence from October to May between St. Moritz and Soglio (p. 361), 
 and so remarkably clear, even when the weather is warm, that objects are 
 distinctly visible at great distances. The sky in the intensity of its blue vies 
 with that of southern climes. The temperature rises in summer to 66 — 76" 
 Fahr. in the shade, but a fall of 35— 40' within the 24 hrs. is not unfrequent. 
 In winter the thermometer frequently falls to 30= below zero. ' Ts^ine months 
 winter and three months cold' is the laconic, but somewhat exaggerated 
 account the natives give of their climate. White frosts and snow are by 
 no means uncommon in August. 
 
 One striking peculiarity of the mountains enclosing this narrow valley 
 is the perfect silence which reigns among them. The songs of birds and 
 the rustling of leaves are rarely heard. At first sight the bottom of the valley 
 resembles a vast meadow, in which the eye in vain searches for a tree. 
 The pasturage is excellent, but is seldom in the hands of the inhabitants, 
 being let by them to the Bergamasque shepherds ( p. 324), or to specu- 
 lators who "engage reapers from the Tyrol or the Valtellina to collect the 
 hav. During the hay-harvest about 1000 day-labourers repair to the valley, 
 and it is regarded as a fete in which all classes participate. — The barriers 
 on the bridges are for the purpose of preventing the flocks from straying, 
 but pedestrians may cross them at any time. 
 
 The lower slopes of the mountains of the Upper Engadine are almost 
 exclusively clothed with larches and beautiful specimens of the Arve or 
 Alpine cedar {pivu& cembra, 'Siberian pine'), a tree almost unknown in 
 the rest of Switzerland. Its wood is very light, white in colour, and al- 
 most indestructible, very line in grain and extremely fragrant ; it is much 
 used and esteemed for cabinet work. The kernels (30 t(j 40) of the cones 
 are enclosed in a very hard triangular shell, and have an agreeable flavour, 
 not unlike that of the pine-apple. This pine is the only forest tree that 
 occurs at an elevation of 7000' :, it prefers open and damp situations and 
 does not flourish in the plains: in Siberia it attains a height of 120'. 
 
 The inhabitants of the Engadine usually leave their native country in 
 early life and migrate to all parts of Europe. As sugar-bakers, confectioners, 
 coffee-house keepers, and manufacturers of liqueurs and chocolate, they seem 
 to have a speciality, and in these avocations they frequently amass con- 
 siderable fortunes \ they then return to their native valleys to spend the 
 evening of a busy and active life. To this class belong the picturesque 
 habitations with their small f to exclude the cold ) windows and gilded 
 lattices, so common in all parts of the country. These abodes are most 
 comfortably furnished, and their owners are generally well-educated and 
 respectable men. who have acquired in their cosmopolitan pursuits a 
 knowledge of many of the continental languages, sometimes to the partial 
 forgetfulness of their native 'Ladin\ 
 
 The native of the Engadine is sober, industrious, frugal, and intelligent, 
 learning with facility all the kindred dialects of his native tongue. Poverty 
 is rare, though there is not that eager pursuit of wealth so common to 
 the age. 
 
 Almost all the inhabitants belong to the reformed faith ; the clergy, 
 whose stipends seldom exceed 1000 fr., occupy their cures for a limited 
 number of years only, as appointments for life are prohibited by law. 
 Sermons are usually delivered in the Romansch dialect. Gei-man being 
 occasionally employed. The government of this valley is a pure demo- 
 cracy. "Next to God and the sun, the poorest inhabitant is the chief 
 magistrate ", says an old Engadine proverb ; nevertheless certain noble 
 families, such as the Plantas (p. 330), have for centuries enjoyed a consi- 
 derable influence, which is far from being extinguished at the present day. 
 
 The elevated plateau of the Maloja fcomp. p. 362"), Ital. 
 Maloggia. Rom. Moloyia (5961'). forms the boundary between 
 the Val Bregaglla and the Engadine. At the summit of the 
 pass is the *Maloja-Jnn. 
 
 The traveller will l)e amply revvariled by an i-xcur.-^iuu hence to the 
 Cavloccio Lake and the Forno Glacier. At the last house of (.'j4 hr.) Ordeu
 
 Kmjadine. .SlLb. <!)J. RouU. 327 
 
 the Oidte'jiia is crossed, and its course ascended as far as the numtli of 
 a small affluent : then up the gorge to the 1. as far as the (20 min.) saddle 
 of the mountain, and down to the (10 min.) solitary blue Cavloccio Lake, 
 surrounded by lofty mountains. The chalets of Pian Ca/ihi, opposite the 
 Muretto Pass, are reached in 1 br. more; then to the r.. a climb of i/a hr. 
 over debris and moraine, to the Forno Glacier, above the precipitous vault 
 nf its outlet. The traveller should now ascend on the r. side of the glacier 
 (the middle is to be avoided on account of its crevasses), skirting the Cima 
 del Lavfjo^ and passing near the moraine, to the (2 hrs.) magnificent 'plateau 
 of the glacier, surrounded by the Cima di Castril, Cima di Cantun, Pizzo 
 Torrone. Mte. Sissone, and Cima di Rosso. The Monte Sissoiie, commanding 
 a line view of the Monte della Disgrazia, may be ascended in i hr. from 
 tlie extremity of the glacier. 
 
 The Fail of the Ordlegna is reached by descending the windings of 
 I lie Jlalo.ja road for about 1 31.. and turning to the 1. by a path which 
 li-ads in 5 min. to a plateau of rock above the principal fall. Hence back 
 to the inn in ij-j hr. 
 
 A path leads hence towards the S. across the Miwetlo Pans (8616') in 
 S hrs. to Cfiiesa in the valley of Malenco (descending to the Valtellina), and 
 ill 3 hrs. more to Sondvio (p. S42). The Val Malenco abounds in minerals. 
 Tiie pass itself is monotonous, the route traversing a glacier and rocky 
 debris (guide necessary). On the farther side, however, a fine view is 
 disclosed of the Monte'della Dhgrazia {i2SriX'^. Two poor inns at Chiesa, 
 not recommended. — From Chiesa over the Canriana Pass (10,194') to 
 I'oschiavo in 9 — 10 hrs., good guides necessary. — From Chiesa across the 
 Fex-Glacier and skirting the S. E. slope of the Cliapiitschin, to Pontresina 
 in 15 — 16 hrs.. dangerous (see p. 335). 
 
 The road soon reaches the infant Inn, here termed Ova d'Oen, 
 which descends rapidly from tlie N.W. to the Lake of Sils (Rom. 
 Lej da Segl, Ital. Lago di Seglio. Ay/o M. in length). The Gla- 
 cier and Lake of Longin are the sources of the river. Another 
 important feeder of the lake of Sils is tlie Fedoz brook, which 
 issues from the Vadret da Fedoz . at the upper extremity of the 
 Val Fedoz, between Monte d'Oro (10,253') and the Piz Giiz (1166'), 
 and flows into the lake near the village of Jsola (Islas) on the 
 S. bank. At its extremity, on the r.. stands 
 
 Sils, consisting of three different hamlets, Sils Baseglia(b933 ft.), 
 the pleasantly situated Sils Maria, and Fex (*Alp€nrose at 8ils 
 Maria. V2 M. from the bridge over the Inn ; Postablage. a small 
 inn at Baseglia), Rom. Segl. in a very bleak district. 
 
 .V beaiitiful e.Kcursion may be made from Sils- Maria to the (2' a hrs.) 
 Fex Glacier (Vadret da Fexf. Before reaching the bridge over the Fex 
 (Ova (Iranda, great water), bey<md Maria, the path follows the r. bank of 
 the lirook, and soon enters the forest of Laret. Beautiful retrospective 
 view. Tiie jiath. which cannot be missed, leads past .some houses ( Fa^«n, 
 Vols, and Mi/ot) and a chapel, in l',\; hr. to Curtins, the highest village in 
 the valley. Hence across the meadows towards a large barn, before 
 reaching which the path diverges to the r. By the huer ihalet the brook 
 is crossed, and then skirted as far as the end of the pastures enclosed by 
 walls, which must be traversed in a straight direction, until the traces of 
 an old paveil pathway arc reached. This leads to the summit of Muot Selras 
 (wooded hill), from the S. side of which a f\ill view of the glacier may 
 be enjoyed. The retrospect embraces the valley of Fex, in the back- 
 ground the rugged sides of Piz Layref and Pii Pulaschin (9892'), A very 
 difficult i»ass (12 hrs.) leads from the vallev of Fex to the glacier of 
 Roseg and Pontresina (p. 334). 
 
 'Those who do not wish to approach the brink ot (he glacier, need 
 not proceed beyond the Chapel at Fex (3j4hr. ), and may return by the 
 gorge, where a "view of the beautiful waterfall is obtained. — The Moult
 
 328 Route 83. SILVAPLANA. Upper 
 
 Marmore, which rises near S. Maria, is a fine point of view (ascent 
 l',-.' hr.). 
 
 The peninsula of Chaste (i. e. 'castle'), which projects into the 
 lake of Sils, bears traces of the walls of an ancient castle. 
 
 The road soon reaches the W. bank of the Lake of Sitva- 
 plana, which it skirts as far as 
 
 Silvaplana (5957') (Kreuz; '■^Wilder Mann), where it is joined 
 by the road over the Julier (p. 325). The village is pleasantly 
 situated amidst green meadows , on the alluvial deposits of the 
 Montaraskerbach, which extend into the lake and divide it into 
 two parts , the lower of which is connected by a canal with the 
 little Lake of Campfer , drained by the Inn (here called Seta). 
 The river does not assume the name of Inn (or En) until be- 
 yond the Lake of St. Moritz. 
 
 F r o m S i 1 V a p 1 a n a 1 P o n t r e s i n a by t h e B a t h s o f S t. M o r i t z 
 (p. 329). The picturesque road diverging to the r. at the lower extremity 
 ut the Lake ot Campfer (.see above), traverses some meadows, crosses tlie 
 inn. and skirts the r. bank of the river as far as {2iJ2 hrs.) the Bath- 
 house of St. Moritz ; a farm (Ada) (good refreshments) is next passed, and 
 also the Lake of Statz, beyond which the two direction-posts must be con- 
 sulted (comp. p. 329). 
 
 From Silvaplana to Pontresina over the Surlej Alp 
 (Fuorcla da Surlej) (guide 8 fr.), a very attractive excursion of 7 or 8 hrs. 
 The narrow part of the lake near Silvaplana is crossed by a bridge, 80' 
 long, leading to Surlej, where there is a mineral spring. This village, for- 
 merly of some importance, is now almost deserted owing to the deva- 
 stations occasioned by inundations :, a calamity of this kind in 1793 destroyed 
 many houses and the church, and covered the meadows with debris. The 
 path to the Baths of St. Moritz (3 M.) (p. 328), which diverges to the 1. 
 before Surlej is reached, must be avoided. Beyond the village, the brook 
 must not be crossed, but the path to the r. ascended into the forest \ 
 1 hr., a chalet, bevond which the path turns to the 1. over a meadow, in 
 the direction of the Piz Corvatsch (11,345'), the ascent of which may be 
 made from Alp 0<a (comp. p. 334). After ',4 hr. the ridge to the 1. must 
 be traversed, in the direction of a large black rock, which may even be 
 distinguished from Silvaplana, and serves as an excellent landmark. From 
 this point the path inclines to the 1., and soon reaches the summit (3ij2 hrs. 
 from Silvaplana) of the pass (Fuorcla), near the glacier which descends 
 from the Piz Corvatsch. The magnificent FLOseg (pron. P.osage) Glacier 
 now becomes visible; the path then descends to the 1. over some meadows, 
 passing several chalets, near the third of which it improves; after 2 hrs. 
 it crosses the Roseg at the bottom of the valley, and follows the course of 
 the stream to (3ij2 hrs.) Pontresina (p. 331). Path from the Koseg Glacier to 
 the Valley of Fez, see p. 334. 
 
 The road from Silvaplana runs near the YV. bank of the little 
 lake of Campfer (see above); 1/4 M. above Campfer, to the 1. 
 of the road, the Alpina restaurant. Between (IV4 M.) Campfer 
 (Hotel Julier) and Cresta (p. 380), to the S.E. above the valley, 
 Is visible the apparently inaccessible Piz Languard (p. 332). 
 Beyond Campfer are seen, on the r. bank of the Inn, far below, 
 the Baths of St. Moritz (see below), to which a road, now tra- 
 versed by the diligence, diverges trom the old road near the lake 
 of Campfer. 
 
 St. Moritz (6100'j, Rom. San Murezzan (*H6tel Culm and 
 Fost, at the end of the village, K. 2 — 3. D. G, pension 5—7 fr. ;
 
 Engadine. ST. MORITZ. 83. Route. 329 
 
 Pensions Bavier, Kreuz, and Veraguth ; Cafe Wellatein, also Pen- 
 sion, unpretiinding ; English Church) is situated to the N. above 
 the Lake of St. Moritz, -which abounds in trout. In a meadow 
 (5445' J , on the r. bank of tlie Inn, 1 M. S. of the village, 
 are the 
 
 Baths of St. Moritz (Physician Dr. Brixggtr ; Dr. Berry ^ in 
 the village. Pension G fr. for patients, K. 'i'/.) fr, and upwards, 
 B. 1, D. at l'i'/-2 o'^'l- -^'/'ii ^- i ^r. ; travellers also recei\edj. 
 The water is a powerful chalybeate , strongly impiegnated with 
 carbonic acid and alkaline salts, pronounced the first of its kind 
 in Europe by Paracelsus (p. '2y8j in 1539, efticacious in scro- 
 fula, chlorosis, bowel-couiplaints, etc., and annually resorted to 
 by numerous patients. The ^^Curhaus (telegr. oflicej, erected 
 over the springs in 1855 , with a large adjoining building , is 
 capable of accommodating 250 patients (saloons , reading and 
 billiard rooms, a covered promenade, music, etc. J. The estab- 
 lishment contains 44 wooden baths (per bath i^fii marble-bath 
 with superior accommod. 5 fr. j ; the water is heated by steam, 
 and there is also an apparatus for inhaling the gas. The season 
 lasts from the middle of June to the middle of .September. Pa- 
 tients will ttnd warm clothing an absolute necessity, as snow not 
 unfrequently falls in August. 
 
 The usual promenade is through the forest to the (^j^ hr.j 
 Johanriisherg , which commands a beautiful view over the upper 
 lakes; another is to the farms of Stlva (p. 330) by the lake, 
 and to ALpina above Campfer. — Also to the summit of the 
 liosatsch, 3 hrs. 
 
 One-horse carriage (for 2 pers.), to go and return (single journey 
 less), to Samaden G, Pontresina 7, Morteratsch Glacier 10, Berniua Inn 
 (comp. p. 339) 12, summit of the pass 15, SilsOiaria 8, Maloja lU fr. ; 
 driver's fee ',2 — 1',2 ^i"- Boat on the lake 1 fr. per hour. 
 
 The Piz Nair (1U,U4U'), an easy ascent of 3 hrs. from St. Moritz. The 
 path turns to the 1. by the Hotel Culm and ascends by the Alp Giop. To- 
 wards the summit the path inclines to the 1. Maguilicent panorama of the 
 Berniua chain. — The descent should be made by the Alp Laret ; or in 
 •(■J hr. down to the Suvretta Lake., and through the Suvrctta Valley (see 
 below) to (2 hrs.) Campfer. 
 
 Towards Cresta, •J4 31. beyond St. Moritz, on a slight eminence between 
 the road and the fall of the Inn, lies a huge mass of rock, the '■RuinatscIC 
 (great fall), probably the remnant of a landslip, or an erratic block. 
 
 Interesting excursion of 6^7 hrs. from St. 3Ioritz over the Alp Oiop^ 
 through the S. portion of the Huvretta Valley^ to the little lake (839ti') lying 
 between it and the jS. Suvretta Valley ; after passing through the latter and 
 the Val di lievtrs to the village of that name (p. 335), St. Moritz may be 
 regained by carriage. 
 
 From St. Moritz (in 2 hrs.) over the Alp Larel to Celerina (p. 33(i) is a 
 beautiful walk with a line view down the valley. 
 
 Excursion on the Berniua Road (p. 339) to the Hospice, and visit to 
 the Morteratsch Glacier (p. 333) on the way back, in lU hrs. (carr. see 
 above). The Grum Alp (p. 34U) may also be visited from the Lago Nero, 
 but too little time would then be left to see the Morteratsch (Uacier in 
 returning. A good path leads from the Baths on the S. bank of the lake by 
 the farm (Ada) (refreshments), through wood and past the Lake of Utats 
 in I'Jj hr. to Poittresiiiu (cump. p. 328).
 
 330 lioute ^3. SAMADKN. Vpper 
 
 Other Excursions, see Pontresina (p. 333). Sainaden (see 
 below), and Maria (p. 327). 
 
 Below St. Moritz (3/4 M.) the Inn forms a pirturesque tall 
 as it issues from the lake. At a bend of the road, in the forest 
 of larches , as soon as the hill is rounded . an admirable survey 
 is enjoyed of the valley of the Inn, extending nearly in a straight 
 line as far as the mountain at the base of which Zernetz (p. 337) 
 is situated, and which appears to close the valley. The bottom 
 of the valley is visible as far as Zuz. The two villages of Cresta 
 and Celerina, Rom. Schlarigna (Kreuz; *Pension Konzi . unpre- 
 tending), are separated by a brook only. [The road from Celerina 
 to Pontresina (3 M.) leads to the r. near the half-ruined churdi 
 of St. Gion; .to the r. a forest-path to the Statzer See and the 
 Selva farm on the Lake of St. Moritz. see p. 329.] Near Samaden 
 the Flatzbach or Berninabach, which descends from the Bernina. 
 falls into the Inn. 
 
 Sainaden (5608'). Rom. Samedan (Sommo d'Oen., Summum Oeni), 
 (lintel Bernina. view of the Bernina group, R. from 2. B. I'|.;. D. 3, 
 A. '•_. fr. : 'Hotel and Pension d c .s Alpes. new; Enga diner 
 11 of. also new: 'Krone, unpretending; Piz Ot. — One-liorse carr. 
 to Pontresina 4, jMorteratsch Glacier 7. Bernina Pass 12. St. Moritz 4, 
 the Baths 5, Silvaplana 6. Sils 3Iaria 8, 3Ialnja 10 fr.l. the chief village 
 (522 inhab.) of the Upper Engadine. possesses many handsome 
 bow-windowed houses, with bright green shutters, and wainscoted 
 with the wood of the Alpine cedar. It is the wealthiest place 
 in the district, and boasts of a banker (M. Tosio, also of Trieste), 
 who is in direct correspondence with the principal commercial 
 towns of Europe. 
 
 The principal house in Samaden is the residence of the 
 Planta family, a name intimately connected with the history of the 
 country for nearly 1000 years. The bear's paw (^planta) which 
 figures in the family-escutcheon is often met with in the Enga- 
 dine. The old church of St. Peter, 1 M. to the N.W. of the 
 village, is paved with the gravestones of the Planta. Salis, Juvalta, 
 and other families. A tombstone to the r. by the churchyard 
 wall, bears the inscription: Quia ais sepulieu il Sig . ' Landamma 
 Rudolf de Planta (d. 1840), pisserus et amo bap da famiglia, amih 
 fidel, horn actif et bain intenziono per il public. (Here is interred 
 the Landammann Rudolph de Planta. a good and beloved father, 
 a faithful friend, an active and patriotic citizen.) 
 
 Beautiful view from the Muottas (8271') or Hittelberg, situated oppo- 
 site Samaden to the E.. ascent 2^i-^ hrs. The svimniit overlooks a part of 
 the glaciers of the Bernina, the green Upper Engadine with its lakes, as 
 far as the Maloja. hut downwards only as far as Ponte. The ascent is 
 also frequently made from Pontresina fcomp. p. 333). 
 
 To the W. above Samaden rises a grotesquely cleft limestone rock, the 
 Piz Padella (9459'), a rich field for the botanist', and commanding a fine 
 view (ascent Qij-j hrs., pleasantest in the afternoon). Behind it is a rocky 
 ridge with three peaks (Tre.<i Horella.-^), which connect the Piz Padella with 
 the imposing pyramid of Piz Ot (10,660'), This mountain is frequently
 
 Enyadine. I'ONTKKSl.N A. ^3. Route. 331 
 
 ascended ( S'ju — 4 hrs.) Iroin Saiiiaden. as the path has recently heen im- 
 proved; it ascends in zig/.ags to the top, and at difficult places there are 
 iron cramps attached to the rock. (Path direct from St. Moritz also, 
 uniting with that from Samaden at a spring half-way \ip: thus far riding 
 is practicable.) Guide desirable. View similar to that from the Piz Lan- 
 guard (p. 332). 
 
 The road to (47-2 M.) Pontresina (the high-road over the Ber- 
 nina, R. 85) crosses the Inn near Samaden. traverses the bottom 
 of the valley, and ascends gradually by the bank of the Bernina- 
 haclu or Flatzbach. On the r., at the extremity of the Valley of 
 Roseg, which opens near Pontresina, is seen the magniticent Rosey 
 Glacier (p. 333); in the background the Piz Rosey fl-.^'M'), 
 and on the E. its nearest and loftiest neighbour, the Piz Rernina 
 (see below). 
 
 The Bernina Chain, a group of mountains scarcely inferior 
 in grandeur to that of Monte Kosa, separates the Upper Engadine 
 and Val Bregaglia (p. 360) from the Valtcllina (p. 341). Its 
 highest peak is the Pi% Bernina (13. '294'). or Monte Rosso di 
 Seer seen . ascended in 1850. 1858. and 1861. also in 1863 by 
 the Editor, accompanied by the guides Pet. Jenny and Alex. Flury. 
 The last portion of the ascent . the Terrace' as it is termed, 
 and the passage of the ^Steile Wand\ are sometimes not unattended 
 with danger. To the E. of this mountain , the Piz di Palii 
 (12,835'), especially remarkable for the beauty of its outline 
 and the transparency of its glaciers, becomes visible at Pontresina. 
 The remarkably interesting glaciers (Rom. Vadret, Ital. Vedretta} 
 and snows of this group, occupying an area of upwards of 350 sq. 
 ^I., are now frequently explored by mountaineers, a large pro- 
 portion of whont are English. Iinis frequently crowded. 
 
 Pontresina and its Environs. 
 
 Coiiip. Map. p. 326. 
 
 Hotels. Hotel Roseg. new. R. I^l-i. D. 3. S. 2. B. I ',2. L. and A. 
 I'ljfr. ; -Krone (Post), with view of the Roseg Glacier; Weis.ses 
 Kreuz, R. lij^ — 2, B. 1, D. 2, Pension 4 fr., room e.\tra. Private 
 apartments at M. Saratz's. In Obey- Pontresina: *Steinhock, for mo- 
 derate requirements, well situated. 
 
 Guides. Hans Grass., Barlhol. Walthtr., Pet. Jenny., Jacob and Paul 
 Midler, Christ. Grass., Badrutt Jd'jer, Abrah. Ambii/il, Fopp., and Schnitzler 
 are trustwditliy and experienced. The charges for the diflerent excursions 
 are nHiitioiu'd in each case. 
 
 Dried Plants collected and sold by the schoolmaster Enderlin (land- 
 lord (if I ho Kreuz). 
 
 Carriages. One-horse to Samaden 3. St. Moritz 5. Ponte 7. 3Iali>ja 
 Pass 12. Kornina Inn 8. Lago Xero and Bianco 10 fr. 
 
 Pontresina (5915'). a village with 300 inhab. . consists of 
 Lower aiul Upper Pontresina. almost contiguous. The traveller 
 will be surprised to find at this elevation (10' higher than the 
 Rigikulm) such a variety of flowers as the gardens of many of 
 the inhabitants contain, especially that adjoining the church, at 
 the upper end of Lower Pontresina. Like (irindelwald . ("lia- 
 mouny, and Zermatt. Pontresina forms admirable head-quarters
 
 332 Route 83. PIZ LANGUARD. Upper 
 
 tor excursions on the glaciers. M. Joh. Saratz, president of 
 the district , a very successful chamois-hunter, who resides opp. 
 the church, possesses a small collection of stuffed animals, prin- 
 cipally the spoil of his own gun. 
 
 The ascent (3 — 4, descent 2 — 3 hrs.) of the *Piz Languard 
 (10,715', 4800' above Pontresina) {lungo yuardo = extensive 
 view) is deservedly a favourite excursion, from Pontresina (guide 
 unnecessary, 7 fr. ; horse to the foot of the peak 10 fr.). This 
 sharp and apparently inaccessible pyramid rises to the E. of 
 Pontresina (not visible thence) , immediately opposite the main 
 group of the Bernina. — One-third of the ascent is by a some- 
 what steep path, winding upwards through forests of larch and 
 'Alpine cedars', and fringed with rhododendrons, as far as the 
 chalet of the Bergamasque shepherds. The next portion of the 
 way (on a precipitous rock to the 1. the rare 'Edelweiss' grows 
 abundantly) is more level, and traverses pastures, ascending the 
 bleak valley of Languard as far as the S. base of the Languard 
 cone (thus far riding is practicable). The latter part of the 
 ascent is rugged and fatiguing. The traveller should start from 
 Pontresina as early as possible, as about 9 a. m. several of the 
 mountain-peaks are generally enveloped in clouds, and in the 
 early morning the path to the foot of the cone is in the shade. 
 
 The space on the summit is very limited. Upright blocks of 
 stone afford slight shelter from wind and rain. The extensive 
 panorama (comp. the indicator; a visitors' book is also kept at 
 the top) from the summit comprises the snow-clad peaks and 
 glaciers of E. Switzerland; it extends S.W. as far as Monte 
 Kosa, N.W. the Todi , S.E. the Adamello-group, N.E. the Zug- 
 spitze, the whole resembling a gigantic relief-map. With the ex- 
 ception of Campfer, St. Moritz with its lake, and Cresta, no vestige 
 of human abodes is visible. The most conspicuous mountains 
 are: E. the Oetzthaler Ferner and Ortlerspitz ; S.E. the Ada- 
 mello-group : S. , in the immediate vicinity, the huge Bernina- 
 chain with its lakes, to the 1. of the Bernina the little blue lake 
 of La Pischa; S.W. Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn (to the r. 
 of the latter, Mont Blanc?); W. the Bernese Alps; and finally 
 the lofty and precipitous chain stretching from the Julier to the 
 Silvretta, with five peaks (Piz Julier, Plz Ot, Piz Uertsch, Piz 
 Kesch, and Piz Linard) exceeding 10,000' in height. Piz Lan- 
 guard is a rich field for the botanist; the beautiful 'Edelweiss' 
 is also occasionally found. — Experienced mountaineers may 
 descend by La Pischa into the Vat da Fain (p. 334), and return 
 to Pontresina by the Bernina road, an expedition (10 — 12 hrs., 
 guide 10 fr.) more interesting to the botanist and mineralogist 
 than to the ordinary traveller. In crossing into the Yal da Fain, 
 the waterfall descending from the lakes higher up must be left 
 several hundred paces to the 1.
 
 CUICICI III 
 
 a du .*ix Xciiiciii 
 
 :,tun
 
 Engadine. MORTERATSCH GLACIER. 83. Route. 333 
 
 Ascent of the Muottas (2'/9 hrs. : jruide n fr."). see p. 330. 
 To SiLvaplana by the Ba</i.9 o/" iS'i. Moritz , see p. 328. By the 
 *Bernma Road to the Hospice p. 339, or to the Griim Alp p. 340. 
 
 Another interesting excursion is that to the Morteratsch Gla- 
 cier (guide unnecessary"), ly^ hr. S. of Pontresina, below the 
 Bernina road fp. 339). About 10 min. from the last house of Pont- 
 resina, near a saw-mill, is a beautiful cascade which issues from 
 the Languard valley. The new road is quitted 8 min. farther 
 for the old. which is also quitted after 40 min. more, at the point 
 where the ascent commences. Here, near a rounded rocky emi- 
 nence (the '■Platten^, the path diverges to the r. . passing the 
 (12 min.) beautiful *Falls of the Bernina brook, which is preci- 
 pitated over huge masses of rock (chalet with refreshments). 
 A new bridge commanding a good view of both falls crosses the 
 Bernina brook between them. In a few min. more the glacier 
 is attained. — The path continues to the r. (N.), ascending 
 through a forest of Alpine ceiars, to the (40 min.) Morteratsch 
 Alp., whence the frozen cataract of the Morteratsch, 6 M. in 
 length, is best surveyed. A closer survey may be made from the 
 Boval hut (see p. 335), 2 hrs. farther; guide desirable (8 fr.) 
 
 The following; easy G lacier Excursion (with guide), which may 
 be extended at pleasure, is recommended (distances reckoned from Pont- 
 resina) : from the Morteratsch Alp across the glacier to the Lakes 4 hrs. 
 (6 fr.), to the Isla Persa ij-jhr. (8fr.), summit of the Isla Persa 1J2 hr. 
 more ( 10 fr.), which is surrounded by the imposing amphitheatre formed 
 by Mont Pers, the Piz Cambrena, Palii, Zupo, Bernina, and Morteratsch. 
 Diavolezza Expedition (see p. 331 ) not recommended from this 
 side. 
 
 A visit to the Morteratsch Glacier may easily be combined with an 
 excursion to the Bernina-Road and 'the Lago Nero and Lago 
 Bianco (p. 340). If the glacier be omitted, the excursion (with aid of 
 carr. or diligence) may be extended as follows : from Lago Nero by Lago 
 Bianco, the Cambrena Glacier, and the Lago della Scala to the Alp 
 Griim (Pit hr. from Lago Bianco), and across the latter to the point 
 where it terminates. Here a fine view of the valley and lake ofPoschiavo 
 (p. 341) and of the Palu Glacier is obtained. The traveller now returns 
 by the easily passable outlet of the Lago della Scala to the Gallery 
 (2 hrs.) on the Bernina-road, where his carr. should be in waiting ; thence 
 to Pontresina a drive of 3 hrs. — Bernina Inn, sec p. 339. 
 
 The Koseg Glacier (272 hrs., 5 M. of the way by a tolerable 
 road ; guide unnecessary, unless an excursion on the glacier itself 
 is contemplated). Immediately above Unter-Pontresina the road 
 descends slightly, crosses a bridge, and (almost level) leads be- 
 tween the wooded Piz Chalehagn on the 1. and the Piz Rosatsch 
 and Surlej to the glacier. Beyond the (21/0 ^^l Alp Priima the 
 brook is crossed. There is an excellent spring to the r. of the road, 
 a short distance farther. To the 1., farther on, the Misaun Glacier, 
 descending from the Piz Tschierva, is visible far above the road. 
 The valley is terminated by the Alp Misaun (refreshm. and a bed 
 of hay) , close to the glacier. An attempt to rear reindeer has 
 been made here, but without success. The whistle of the marmot 
 is frequently audible. — Alp Ota, to which a path ascends to the
 
 334 Route ^3. SELLA PASS. 
 
 r.. '4 hr. from the glarier. beyond a kind of grotto, is the best 
 point of view. The ALp SuroveL also alfords a good survey. The 
 latter is reached by crossing by the second bridge in the valley 
 to the 1. bank, and pursuing a straight direction along the slope 
 of the mountain. After ') min. a stony path ascends to the r.. 
 then to the 1.. by which the Alp is reached in '20 min. (milkj. 
 
 An interesting extension of the above excursion (iroui Pontresina and 
 back lU — 11 hrs.) may be made to the Agagliouls^ a mass of rock pro- 
 jecting from the midst of ice, surrounded by the icy walls of the Morte- 
 ratsch. Bernina. Koseg. Sella, and Chapiitscliin. This expedition of course 
 requires a guide (10 fr). but is unattended with danger. 
 
 The following excursions are more fatiguing than the above: 
 those denoted by f should be attempted by none but experienced 
 mountaineers. 
 
 From Piz Languard by La Pischa to the Bernina-road, see p. o32 ■■ 
 Boval, to the lakes, the Morteratsch Glacier, and Isla Persa. see p. 333: 
 .Vgagliouls. on the Koseg (Hacier. see above. 
 
 Diavolezza Excursion (10 — 12 hrs. ; guide r2fr.j, fatiguing but interest- 
 ing. From Pontresina to the Bernina Inn 2 hrs. (if the night be spent 
 here, guides must be ordered from Pontresina). Thence to the r. across 
 the pastures, leaving the Alj^ Bondo to the 1.. then over the stony Diavo- 
 lezza ; finally IJ2 hr. across a gradually ascending snow-iield (from the inn 
 2^14 hrs. J to the ridge of Mitnt Pers, whence a magnificent view of the 
 Bernina chain and its ice-cataracts is enjoyed (still finer from the summit 
 of 3Iunt Pers). The descent to the Pers Olacier requires caution on account 
 of the steepness and the loose stones. The rocky Isla Persa is reached 
 iTi 3j4 hr. by crossing the glacier : thence to Pontresina, see p. 333. 
 
 To the Val da Fain (comp. pp. 332, 340), a valley opening above the 
 Bernina Inn, by La Platta (3M2 hrs.). to La Piacha &\-i iirs.). and La Stretia 
 (5 hrs. •, 7 fr.). " 
 
 From the Iloseg vallev to Silvaplana bv the Fuorcla da Surlej 
 (9— 10 hrs., 8 fr.), see p. 328. 
 
 -f From Pontresina through the Fex Valley to Sils 
 ilaria. 12 hrs. ; guide 14 fr. This route ascends the Roseg valley, 
 passing the Alp Ota (p. 333): then a precipitous walk of several hrs.; 
 ii(-.>hr. on the Roseg Glacie)' ; finally on snow to the Cima da Fe,i\ whence 
 a fine panorama. The descent is at first steep and rugged, then 1 hr. 
 over fragments of rock, and down to Curtins ; hence to Sils Maria, see 
 p. 327. beyond which meadows are traversed. From the summit to Sils 
 Maria ") hrs. This is an interesting excursion, but does not aflford a com- 
 plete view of the Bernina-chain. 
 
 t Piz Rosatsch (and back 7 hrs.; guide 7-fr.)-, Piz Chalchagn 
 (also 7 hrs. ; 7 fr.), no views worthy of particular mention. Piz O t (9 hrs. ; 
 7 fr.) and Piz Padella (7hrs. : G fr.). see p. 330. The Alp Laret and 
 Piz Nair, see St. 3Ioritz (p. 329). 
 
 t An interesting and imposing route leads across the 'Sella Pass(ll,7G5') 
 from the Koseg-Thal round the S. side of the Berninastock to the Poschiavo 
 valley. Power of endurance and good guides ( 25 fr. each ; to the summit 
 of the pass only and back 15 fr. ) are requisite for the expedition (15 — 
 16 hrs., 7 hrs. on the ice and snow). The previous night should be spent 
 on the Alp Misaun (p. 333). Hence to the summit of the Sella Pass in 
 4 hrs. •, r. beautiful masses of ice descending from the Sellaspitze, 1. the 
 precipitous rocks of the Piz Roseg. Then a slight descent with varying and 
 magnificent views, especially of the ^lonte Rosso and Monte Musella; above 
 them the broad Canciana Glacier ; more in the foreground the sombre 
 masses of the Monte Moi-o and Monte Nero, at the feet of the spectator 
 the dark Scerscen Glacier, the whole presenting a most majestic spectacle. 
 The route next leads in a wide curve, close by the S. slopes of the Bernina, 
 to the Fellaria Glacier; E. the .\damello-Stock Itecomes visible. After a 
 walk of :J — 3 hrs. . the fatigue of which depends on the condition of the
 
 P.KVKRS. ^4. Route. 335 
 
 snow, the Fcllaria (UacitM- is f)uitt('d: then a steep deseent i>f I'ji hr. to 
 the upper Fellaria Chalets, where milk may \)c obtained in summer, ami 
 a bed of liay if necessary ( the Editor louud these huts clusod in Sept.. 
 1867). The route descend.s henec i>\er the moraines of the Fellaria 
 Olacier, and again ascends rapidly tor I hr. hy a good footpath. From the 
 summit c»f this height a new view of the Fellaria and N'erona (jiaciers is 
 diselosetl; W. the Monte della Disgrazia ; S. the Canciana (Uaeier. high 
 above the path. In a straight direction hence tiie I'as.srj Itovano (8o9lJ'» 
 leads tt) I'oschiavo (p. 841) through the \'al Or.ie in 3'|2hrs. ; also a footpath 
 to the r., following the lofty E. slopes (d" the \'al Posrhiavinu, and descend- 
 ing to (4 hrs.) Le Prese (p. 341). From the Fellaria Chalets I'ontresina may 
 1)6 regained hy a direct route over tlie Be 11a vista I'ass, l)etween the 
 Piz Zupo and Pi/, Palii. which however is uninteresting and occasionally 
 dangerous; the same may be said of the Cambrena Pass, which leads 
 E. of the Pi/. Cambrena to the Bernina roa<l (both traversed recently by 
 the Editor). — A similar route lead.s from the Koseg valley, W. of the 
 Chapiitschin, across the Chaiiiitschin Pass to the Fe.v Glacier; thence 
 S. past the Piz Tremoggia. and across the \V. extremity of the Scerscen 
 Clacier to Chiesa (p. 327) in the Val 3Ialenco. 
 
 -;- Pi/. Chaputschin (U.13'2') (guide 15 fr. ) ; •;- 3Iorteratsch 
 ( 1'2,316') (25 fr.). Of the more diflicult excursions in the environs of 
 Pontresina. that which best repays the fatigue is the ascent of the 
 •;- ■ Corvatsch (Il.;ii5') (11—12 hrs.; guide 15 fr.. from Silvaplana somewhat 
 less), unattended with danger. The route is by the Alp Surovel (p. 334) ; 
 the Fitorrla da SurleJ ( p. 328) is left to the r., and the Corvatsch Glacier 
 (4 hrs.) reached without material difficulty. The latter is crossed towards 
 the 1., a precipitous and stony ridge ascended, and the glacier again tra- 
 versed. Finally a small snow-field, 3ij-.j hrs. from the base of the glacier, 
 is ascended and the summit attained (generally free from snow). The 
 great attraction of the view consists in the immediate proximity of the 
 Hernina-group and the survey of the green Engadine with its villages and 
 lakes, which lie at the spectator's feet. The descent is best made on the 
 E. side of the mountain. In I hr. the glacier is traversed, and in 3'J2 hrs. 
 more Pontresina regained. 
 
 An extremely interesting excursion, but occasionally not unattended 
 with danger, may be made to the iCresta Agiuza (12,703'), the saddle 
 between the Piz Bernina and Piz Zupo. the previous night being passed 
 at the Boval hut. The view of the Monte della Dixgrazia is of surpassing 
 beauty. The ridge itself was scaled for the lirst time in lS(jo. — i Piz 
 Bernina, see p. 331. — -r Piz Roscg (12,890'), extremely diflicult and 
 fatiguing (guide 5(1 fr.); the X. and highest peak was ascended for the lirst 
 time in 1865. 
 
 84. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine. 
 
 49>|-.'M. Diligence (arriving from Coire over the Julier, comp K.82; 
 over the Albula, see K. 81) from Samaden to Schuls in o'jj hrs. (with 
 20 min. halt at Pimte), fare 7 fr. 35 c. ; from Schuls to Nauders (new road 
 as far as Martinsbruck) in 4 hrs., fare 3 fr. 40 c. This district is by no 
 means devoid of interest, but is hardly a Held for the pedestrian, as it 
 may easily be surveyed from the diligence. — The inns in the Upper 
 Engadine have greatly improved since the number of travellers has in- 
 creased; many of those in the Lower Engadine are still very unpretend- 
 ing. — Chaises (carriages with springs) and c h a r s - a- bancs can be 
 hired at the more important places ; charges moderate. 
 
 Below Samaden (oOOO'). a jirand panorama; the valley. 2 M. 
 in width, is enclosed by huge mountains with tields of snow, and 
 the broad glittering bosoms of two glaciers are visible towards the S. 
 (^I'/i M.) Bevers {Post\ a prosperous village, residence of the 
 prefect of the district, is situated at the foot of the indented rooks
 
 336 Rmite ■'^■4. SCANFS. Froin Samaden 
 
 of the Crestn Mora (black ridge). M. Ffraettli , an experienced 
 botanist, sells dried specimens of plants. 
 
 (274 M.l Ponte (5548'1 (*Albula, kept by the schoolmaster 
 Gartmann , a good guide ; Krone , beyond the bridge) , with an 
 ancient castle of the Albertini family. (From Ponte to Coire 
 over the Albula, see R. 81.) 
 
 Piz Uertsch (Albt/Iahoni, p. 321) (10,800') may he ascended in 5 hrs. 
 from Ponte, the last 2 hrs. alons: an almost perpendicular crumbling pre- 
 cipice; view magnificent (guide 10 fr.). — Piz Kesch (11,211'). difficult, not 
 to be attempted except by practised mountaineers : ascended for the first 
 time by Mr. Tuckett in 1864. — Piz Mezzem (9727'). on the opposite side 
 of the valley, presents no difficulty and commands a fine view. 
 
 The road now crosses to the r. bank of the Inn. On the E. 
 slope lies Campovasto. or Camogasc, at the entrance of the narrow 
 Val Chiamuera. 
 
 On March 9th, 1799, the Austrians and French, on the frozen surface 
 of snow 5' deep, disputed the possession of the bridge for 6 hrs. The 
 Emperor Maximilian penetrated as far as this in 1499, during the war 
 against the Swiss. 
 
 Near (8/4 M.") Madulein (5515') {*H6tel GurdavaU), where 
 the road regains the 1. bank, rise the ruins of the castle of 
 Guardavall (commanding a fine view; ascent 10 min.), erected 
 in 1251 by Bishop Volkard to 'guard the valley'. 
 
 63/4 M. (3 M. from Madulein) Zuz (5548') (''Schiveizerbund ; 
 Weisses Kreuz), a large village with an old tower, said to be the 
 remains of the ancient residence of the Planta family. The 
 climate now becomes milder, the valley being sheltered from the 
 cold winds from the Maloja , and traces of cultivation become 
 apparent. 
 
 *Piz Griatschouls (9754'), ascended hence without difficulty in 3 hrs., 
 commands an extensive prospect. Descent by the Sitlsaniia Valley to Capella 
 (see below). 
 
 Near (IV2 M.) Scanfs (5413') (Post^ Kreuz), a bridge crosses 
 the Inn; the road continues on the 1. bank. Below Scanfs, the 
 Val Casanna opens to the S.E. , known as the scene of the 
 campaign of the Duke de Rohan, the distinguished Huguenot 
 general, who marched from this place in 1635 into the Valtellina 
 over the Casanna Alps, and defeated the Austrians, June 27th, 
 near Liivigno; nearly opposite, to the N.W., and near (IV2 ^^^0 
 Capella, opens the Val Sulsanna, through which a rugged bridle- 
 path leads to the Scaletta Pass (8592') and Davos (p. 317). 
 
 The road continues for a considerable distance in a narrow 
 and wooded gorge, through which the Inn flows. Below Cinuschel 
 (5302'), near Brail, a bridge (Puntota, Pons alius) spans a 
 brook , emerging from a deep ravine , and separating the Upper 
 from the Lower Engadine. The 'Punt Aut', properly so called, 
 is an old wooden bridge , 50 ft. above the handsome new stone 
 bridge. At the extremity of the gorge a line view is obtained 
 of the river and the picturesque wooden bridge by which the 
 road crosses to the r. bank. The peculiar furrowed snow-roof
 
 A- 
 
 P 
 
 ^^ 
 
 ■ ! 
 
 :44,"^->g'^^,:'<,k M 
 
 m 
 
 S'h 
 
 w
 
 to Nauders. LAVIN. 84. Route. 337 
 
 of the Piz Linard (11,208'1 soon becomes visible to the N. 
 Near (7^2 ^1 Zernetz a wide and partially cultivated valley opens, 
 in which the scattered village with its slender spire is situated. 
 
 91/2 M- Zernetz (4912') (*Bdr; Lowe, property of the hunter 
 Jac. Filli; *Steinbock; one-horse carr. to Samaden 8 fr.) is a 
 considerable place at the confluence of the Spot and the Inn. The 
 church is a handsome edifice, dating from 1623: the towers 
 formerly belonged to the Planta- Wildenberg and Mohr families. 
 
 To the E. opens the Valley of Fuorn or Ofen ( Val di Forn), 
 through which a good bridle-path ( rond in course of construction) leads 
 in 8 hrs. over the Ofen (5918') and Buffalora (6729') passes to St. Maria 
 (4580') (Weisses Kreuz) in the Miinsterthal ■, thence in 3 hrs. to the Stelvio 
 (p. 345), or in 4 hrs. to Mais in the Vint^chtjau (p. 346). Travellers arriving 
 from the Tyrol should engage a guide at Mais or Tauffers (4286', p. 346) ; 
 those of St. Maria are somewhat extortionate in their demands. At Cierfs 
 (5456') a tolerable inn; that at Fuorn (5939') is good, though unpretending. 
 The forest near Zernetz is to this day a refuge for bears, several of 
 which are shot annually. 
 
 Below Zernetz the road recrosses the Inn , and enters a nar- 
 row, pine-clad gorge, extending as far as (32/4 M.) Sua (47150, 
 Rom. Susch. The ruins of a fortification , probably of Roman 
 origin, crown an eminence rising from the valley. (Fliiela Route 
 to Davos, see p. 317.) Over the Fless Pass to Klosters . see 
 p. 316. 
 
 51/2 M. Lavin (4782') (Post), about I3/4 M. from Sus , is a 
 place of some importance. In the churchyard a tombstone bears 
 a quaint inscription beginning: ^Quia ais semnd per la grand 
 Racolta\ etc. (here is sown for the great harvest). The bear's 
 paw of the Plantas appears on many of the grave-stones. (Through 
 the Val Lavinuoz and over the Laviner Joch to Klosters, see 
 p. 316.) 
 
 Piz Mezdi (9593') may be ascended from Lavin or Siis in 4 hrs. with- 
 out difficulty. Magnificent prospect of the Engadine, Silvretta, etc. — 
 'Piz Linard "(11,208'). the loftiest peak of the Silvretta group, commands a 
 strikingly imposing panorama. New path in course of construction. 
 Ascent at present very difficult, recommended to none but e.xperienced 
 mountaineers. 
 
 The r. bank of the Inn is generally precipitous, and affords 
 few sites for villages, whilst on the 1. bank, on broad, sunny 
 eminences are situated the ancient villages of Lavin, Guarda, 
 and Ardetz, said to be of Etruscan origin, picturesquely com- 
 manded by towers and ruined castles. The entire valley is en- 
 closed by the snowy heights and glaciers of the Silvretta on one 
 side , and by a lower range of densely-wooded heights on the 
 other. Numberless brooks descend from the lateral valleys to 
 swell the Inn . which flows through so profound a gorge that in 
 some places only the noise is audible. Lavin and Ardetz are 
 possibly Romansch corruptions of Lariniitm and Ardea , two an- 
 cient towns near Rome, after which these villages were named by 
 Roman colonists who took refuge here B. C. 391 to escape from 
 the Gauls, and who were the first inhabitants of the Engadine. 
 
 BiEDEKKR. Switzerland. 5th Edition. 22
 
 33S Route 64. TARASP. 
 
 The new road follows the 1. bank of the Inn; Guarda (5413'), 
 a village situated on a precipitous height to the 1. , lies on the 
 old road. Near the village of (0^/^ M.J Ardetz (^4823') (Post; 
 Sonne) , rise the picturesquely situated ruins of the castle of 
 Steinsbery (^from which the village derives its German namej. 
 
 At Ardetz is the entrance of the wild Val Tasna, bounded by the Fiz 
 Cotschtii ^yyiic)'. easily ascended from Guarda, see above, in 3 hrs., line 
 viewj and l^iz Afuncrtun (1U,UT0'J- l-'rom the upper part {^Val Urschai, 
 terminated by Piz Fatschalc, lU.430'), a difiicult route crusses the Futschol 
 Pass (.9078 J (between the Auystenbery and Fluchthorn) to the Jamthal^ and 
 to Galthiir in the Faznauii (^p. 349j. 
 
 A circuit by the Old Road from Ardetz to Schuls is recommended to 
 pedestrians. It crosses the Tasnathal [yviih. line waterfall), and traverses the 
 lofty N. slopes of the muuntain . passing (4ijj M.) Fetlan (54u3') ('Pens. 
 Crastanj, whence a good new road descends to (.3 M.) ISchtds (see below), 
 atfording several very beautiful views, especially tuwards the end of the way. 
 The JIuotta ^'alults (Ftz Cliiiia, 9147') is easily ascended from Fettan in 
 3'|2 lirs. : magniticent view, perhaps the most extensive in Lower Euiadine. 
 
 A footpath leads from Ardetz on the r. bank of the Inn to 
 Tarasp (^see below j. The road crosses the brook Tasna , and 
 gradually descends on the 1. bank of the Inn, passijjg IS'airs, to 
 
 12 M. Schuls (^3i:)70'J, Rom. Scuol, divided into Upper {Hotel 
 Piz Chiampatschj and Lower Schuls {*H6tel Btlceder). The neigh- 
 bourhood abounds in mineral springs (^saline, sulphureous, and 
 (•halybdatej, and in gaseous cavities or "mofettes'. 
 
 from the =^Piz Chiampatsch (958()'), X. of Schuls, a precipitous ascent 
 of 4 hrs.. an admirable survey is enjoyed of the Lower Engadine and the 
 mountain-chains to the E. and t>. Towards the \V. the view is intercepted 
 by the Fiz Miiischun, and towards the X. by the Ftz Fatsclialv (see above). 
 
 A good road leads from .Schuls to the *Bath8 of Tarasp, situ- 
 ated on tlie grassy and wooded terra<es on the S. bank of 
 the Inn , and noted for their mineral springs. The new 
 * Ourhaus allords excellent accommodation (^R. 8, B. I1/4, !>• 
 ;j , L. and A. 1 fr. , pension from 6 fr.J. Mineral springs 
 and 'mofettes" aboixnd in the neighbourhood. The water of the 
 Luciusquelle is admirably adapted for drinking. The baths are 
 supplied from a chalybeate spring. Post and telegraph oftices 
 in the house. Dr. Killias of Coire is the physician. Less 
 expensive quarters may be procured at Vulpera ( Voipers, 4183'J, 
 situated higher up (*Zur Salzquille, *Beloedere, Carl, Arquint, 
 ^Pension Zanoli). A number of patients also establish themselves 
 at .Schuls (^see below) , whence an omnibus runs every morning 
 to Tarasp. The handsome, but dilapidated Castlt of Tarasp 
 (^4911 'J, the property of M. de Planta , was the residence of 
 Austrian bailirts until 1815. Beyond it is the village of that 
 name, tlie only one in the Engadine where German is spoken, 
 and where the inhabitants are of the Rom. Cath. faith. 
 
 From Bad Tarasp to St. Maria in the Miinsterthal. Near Vulpera 
 the "Valley of Scarl opens, through which an interesting route of the same 
 length as that mentioned p. 337, leads to St. Maria via Cier/s, where the 
 patlis unite. — Another attractive route is from the Scarlthal over the 
 Crusifietta ( iicarljoMj.. Axxd through the Val Avigna to Tauffers and Mats 
 tp. 346;.
 
 MARTINSBRUCK. 8d. Route. 339 
 
 8. of Tarasp Irises the Piz Pisoc ( 10,427') i ascent difficult , accom- 
 plished for the lirst time in 1865. 
 
 Beyond Soliuls a new road leads 1. to the beautifully situated 
 and considerable village of Sins (AlOi'), Horn. Sent. At [ji M.J 
 Remiis, Kom. Ramaosch (^40'2'i'j, which, with the ruined castle 
 ot Tscluinu/f (Canities), is left high up on the 1., the road crosses 
 tlie Veil Sinestra, a deep ravine. The valley now contracts. Uu 
 the r. bank of the Inn , about 300' above it , is the Fontana 
 Chistaina, a small intermittent waterfall, which descends from the 
 VaL d'Assa and flows once in 3 hrs. only. A fine view is soon 
 disclosed of the loftily situated Schlerms ; above it the Muttler 
 and the indented Schlammer - Spitz. The r. bank of the Inn, 
 here a stream of considerable volume, is clothed with dark woods. 
 
 The next village ij^^U M.J is Strada. Near (^3 M.J Martins- 
 bruck (^3343'J, Rom. Funt Martina (InnJ, the landscape becomes 
 grander. The bridge over the Inn forms tlie boundary between 
 Switzerland and the Tyrol. On the 1. are the ruins of the castle 
 of ServiezeL. [A path on the 1. bank of the Inn leads hence to 
 the very interesting *Fass of Finstermiinz {i^/-> hr.J, high above 
 which is the Hoch Finstermiinz post-road, hewji out of tlie solid 
 rock , p. 347. J The road to Nauders ascends rapidly on the r. 
 bank of the Inn, and then slightly descends. Beautiful retrospec- 
 tive view of the Engadine from the summit. Between Schuls and 
 Nauders there is no inn affording tolerable quarters for tlie 
 night. 
 
 io3/4 M. Nauders (^4164'J (Fast; .Uondsclieinj , see p. 34?. 
 Austrian custom-house formalities. Nauders is 3 M. distant from 
 Martinsbruck : from Nauders to Finstermiinz (p. 347) 'l^i., M. 
 
 85. From Samaden over the Bernina to Tirano. 
 
 From Tirano through the Valtellina to Colico. 
 Coinp. Map, p. o'J6. 
 
 34*J4 M. Diliiienco from Samaden, from June 15th to Sept. I5th, 
 once daily to PoscUiavo in 5' 3 hrs. (8 fr. lU c. ), to Tirano in 7'|3 hra. 
 (10 fr. 4U c.) (between Foschiavo and Le Prese also an omnibus, 4U c). 
 This route, although somewhat long, is also recommended to pedestrians. 
 
 The iiernina Pass (road completed 18G3) , the only route over 
 the Bernina-chain (p. 331) practicable for carriages, is the principal line of 
 communication between tlie Engadine and the Valtellina , and is much 
 frequented even in winter. 
 
 From Samaden to 
 
 47-2 M. Pontresina, see p. 331; thence to the MorteratscU 
 (riacier, p. 333. The new road soon begins to ascend, and affords 
 a magnillcent prospect of the Morteratsch Glacier and the Ber- 
 nina -group, sufliciently attractive to repay an excursion from 
 Pontresina, Samaden, or St. Moritz. About M. from Pontresina, 
 the solitary houses of the Bernina (l)7'23'J (*lnn) are attained. 
 After an ascent of i^/.> hr. more, tlie road reaches the Ospizia 
 Bernina (H. 2, B, II/4 fr.J , beautifully situated above the LagQ 
 
 •22*
 
 340 Route 86. BEB^INA PASS. From Samaden 
 
 Bianco (see below) . and opposite the Cambrena Glacier. The 
 passage of the latter to the Fellaria Chalets (p. 335) is very fa- 
 tiguing, and requires experienced guides fp. 331"). 
 
 To the Baths of Bormio (p. 343) on the Stelvio road (10 hi\«.) a 
 path diverges a few min. above the inn. leading through the Val da Fain, 
 by La Pischa and La Stretta (comp. p. 334) , a rich field for the botanist. 
 
 Vegetation becomes scanty ; the road ascends and skirts three 
 small lakes: the two smaller are termed Lago Minore (Rom. Lej 
 Minur] and Lago Nero (Rom. Lej Xair) , the larger (2 M. in 
 length) Lago Bianco (Rom. Lej Alv'). The narrow barrier which 
 separates these lakes is the watershed, or culminating point, 
 between the waters of Lago Nero, which descend to the Inn, and 
 those of Lago Bianco which feed the Adda. Lago Nero contains 
 spring-water, whilst Lago Bianco is supplied from the glaciers : 
 hence the difference in colour. These lakes are frozen over from 
 the beginning of Nov. till the middle of June. On the S.W. 
 side is the Vedretta di Cambrena. 
 
 •Piz Lagalp (9718'). the W. base of which the road skirts, may easily 
 be ascended in 2hrs., and commands an admirable survey of the Bernina. 
 etc. — Covnu di Campascio (8544'), an isolated cone S. of the Ospizio (easy 
 ascent, 1 hr.) affords a beautiful prospect of the Bernina. etc. 
 
 The Footpath to P o s c h i a v o eftects a saving of 1 hr. , and is more 
 picturesque than the high road, but somewhat fatiguing. It ascends to the 
 r. at the commencement of the Lago Nero , skirts the W. side of the 
 Layo Bianco [to the r. of which is the Cambrena Glacier at the base 
 of the lofty Piz Cambrena (11,834') and the beautiful Piz dWrlas], and on 
 the height approaches the magnificent '^PaVl Glacier, lijy hr. from the 
 Bernina route. The path traverses the Alp Gri'un (comp. p. 333), an emi- 
 nence opposite the glacier, commanding a view of the villages of Poschiavo 
 and Le Prese in the ravine below. The path now descends rapidly through 
 the wood to the Alpine hamlet of Cavaglia (where milk may be procured), 
 crosses some pasture-land, and re-enters a wild district. The Cavagliasco, 
 dashing through narrow gorges, is crossed by a bridge, where the pedestrian 
 must turn to the r. ; "view of the valley and lake of Poschiavo : finally a 
 long descent by a newly constructed bridle-path. 
 
 The new road skirts the N.E. side of the lakes, and ascends 
 to the summit of the Bernina Pass (7658'), indicated by crosses, 
 1 M. from the Hospice. The pass, bleak and uninteresting, is 
 never free from snow till late in the season. The road traverses 
 a gallery and descends rapidly for 8 M., passing the Inns of La 
 .Uo»a (6495'). and •'^/4 M. farther, La 2?«.?a (6161'1. the better of 
 t!ie two ; good dried meat (see p. 326) to be had. (Above La Motta 
 a narrow road leads to the 1. to Livigno by the Forcola, which, 
 though narrow, is practicable for carriages: near it there are ex- 
 tensive strata of gypsum and alabaster. ) 
 
 Where the road passes to the E. slope of the mountain, a 
 fine view is obtained of the upper part of the narrow valley of 
 the Poschiavino , as far as Poschiavo. [Through the Valle di 
 Campo, which diverges by a small brook to the E., near Pisciadella, 
 3 M. below the Rusa inn, Bormio (p. 343) on the Stelvio road 
 may be reached in 10 hrs.] As Poschiavo (71/2 M. from the 
 Rusa, 151/2 M. from the Bernina inn) is approached, a view of
 
 to Colico. POSCHIAVO. .%. RfMle. 341 
 
 the Glacier, which descends from the Pizzo di Verona. i« obtained 
 to the W. 
 
 191/2 M. Poschiavo (3317'), (jex. Pu^ddav {*('roce alia Posta, 
 formerly a chateau, also post-office; Hotel Albricri; Hosig'a Brew- 
 ery), a small town with a population of '2!^',l3 (one-third Prot. ), 
 possesses several liandsome houses. The trafflc and manufactures 
 are considerable; language Italian. The Koni. C'ath. Church dates 
 from 1494 , but the tower is much more ancient. The diarnel- 
 house bears the inscription : ^Noi siamo stato in fiyura come voi, 
 t voi sarete in sepultura come noi. Ogyi son viro e dimani 
 morto'. The Prot. Church is a handsome building. 
 
 Tlu- 'Pizzo Sassalbo (.9377'), E. of Poschiavo , a fatiguing ascent of 
 a hrs., aftoids a magniticent mountain-panorama: W. the Bernina, E. the 
 Uvtler, S.E. the Adamello. 
 
 The road crosses the Poschiavino river , passes aS'. Antonio, 
 traverses the picturesque level valley, and leads to (3 M.J Le Frese 
 (3215'j, a watering-place at the N. extremity of the Lago di Pr- 
 ichiavo. The *Bath - establishment is beautifully situated on the 
 lake, and atfords good accommodation (R. 1 — 3, B. 1, S. inc. W. 
 •2, A. 1/2 fr. ; pension inc. W. () fr.J. The baths (i fr. '20 c. ; 
 sulphureous water heated by steam) , are constructed of yellow 
 Italian marble. Delightful place of ^ojurn. with Italian climate, a 
 favourite resort of the Milanese. Diligence-communication daily in 
 both directions; omnibus (40 c.) to Poschiavo ; other conveyances 
 also to be procured. The lake, which abounds in trout, and is, 
 strictly speaking, a basin of the Poschiarino, is '2 M. in length. 
 The road skirts its W. bank, passing the remnants of fortiftcation^. 
 destroyed in 1814, and a cross, erected to the memory of tliree 
 brothers who perished here b\ an avalanche in 1836. At the S. 
 extremity is the village of Meschino. 
 
 The road now descends through a narrow and rocky ravine, 
 passing a succession of waterfalls , till Madonna di Tirano [iee 
 below) is reached. In the background a glimpse of the Val- 
 tellina. 
 
 Brusio ('2471'). Kom. Brils or Briisch ('-'Trippi . moderate), 
 1 1 _> .M. from the lake, 63/4 M. from Poschiavo, 3 M. from Mi- 
 donna di Tirano, the last Swiss village of importance (pop. 114II, 
 one-third Prot.), possesses a Rom. Cath. and a Prot. church. 
 
 The road traverses plantations of walnut and chestnut-trees, 
 and descends (picturesque waterfall of the Sajento to the r. ) to 
 
 M. Campo Cologno (17r)9'). near the 'Confine Svizzero', or 
 •Swiss frontier, where the vineyards commence. The Italian custom- 
 house is near the ancient fort P^afta Mala. At (2/4 M.) Madonna 
 di Tirano (*S. Michtle) the Valttllina . the broad valley of the 
 .\dda. i>* reached. This district, which till 1797 belonged to tlie 
 Canton of ttraubiinden (^Orisons) . is frequently devastated by 
 inundations. The fertile .slopes by which it is enclosed produce
 
 342 Route 85, TIKANO. 
 
 excellent red wine. The road unites here with the Stelvio and 
 Colioo route ( R. 86), on which, 3/^ M. from Madonna, is situated 
 
 IV2 M. Tirano (15090 {Due Torri , hy the post - offlce) . a 
 small town containing old palaces of the Visconti , Pallavicini, 
 and Sails families. In the background, E. of Tirano, rises 
 Monte Mortirolo. 
 
 From Tirano to Co lice through the Valtellina 45 M. ; 
 diligience daily in T'jo — 8 hrs. ; one-horse carr. to Sondrio 8 fr.. thence to 
 l^forhegno also 8 fr.. Blorhegno to C'olico 5 fr. Travellers coming from the 
 Bcrnina need not proceed to Tirano unless they fail to obtain a conveyance 
 .•it JIadonna di Tirano. This road, the continuation of the Stelvio route 
 (R. 86), although pictviresque, is hardly suitable for the pedestrian. 
 
 At Tresenda , 33;4 31. below Madonna di Tirano . a bi-idge crosses the 
 Adda to the new road which leads on the S. slope of ttie mountain by the 
 Passo cVAprlca (4049'), to Edolo , and through the VaUe Camonica to the 
 I, ago d'Iseo and Brescia (comp. Baedeler'n X. Jtalij)- The old watch- 
 tower of TegJio on the height gives the name to the valley (Val Teglino). 
 
 18 M. Sondrio (1198') ( Posia ; Afaddalena), situated on the impetuous 
 Malcro, is the capital of the Valtellina. The brook, which has frequently 
 endangered the town, now Hows through a broad artificial channel. The 
 extensive building on the outskirts of the town , formerly a nunnery . is 
 now a prison ; the castle of the former governors is employed as barracks. 
 
 Farther to the W. rises the church of -'^assella , biiilt on a rocky 
 eminence and supported by galleries. This luxuriant district , producing 
 tigs, gj-apes. pomegranates, etc., is commanded by the snow -peaks of 
 Monte delta Dfsyrazia (12.057'). one of the Bernina range. 
 
 15 ]>r. Morbegno (' Rer/hia d' Iiighilterva, or Pos(a) (853') is noted for its 
 production of silk. Tlie lower part of the Valtellina is rendered unhealthy 
 l>y the inundations of the Adda. Before reaching 
 
 12 M. Golico, the Splugen route is joined (see p. 360). 
 
 86. From Tirano to Nauders by the Stelvio. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. 360. 
 
 833J4 M. M e s s a g e r i e from Tirano to Bormio daily in 6 hrs. Omnibus 
 daily from Bormio over the Stelvio to Eyrs in 91(2 hrs. , fare 6 fl. : also 
 from Mais bv (3>|4 hrs.) ^'auders to Landeck (p. 348) in 8';2 hrs. 
 
 The Stelvio Road, the highest in Europe, 9230' above the level 
 of the sea . constructed by the A\istrian government in 1820 — 25 . is in an 
 engineering point of view . as well as from the imposing character of the 
 scenery, one of the most remarkable in Europe. The landscape traversed 
 comprehends the rich vine-clad slopes of the Valtellina and the huge 
 glaciers of Monte Cristallo and the Ortler. In spring, (m the melting of 
 the snow , the devastations caused by avalanches become apparent . the 
 road being frequently entirely carried away, or covered with huge masses 
 of rock. On the Italian side the road is in good condition, whilst on the 
 Tyrolese it was much neglected after the cession of Lombardy . but is 
 now entirely repaired. 
 
 Pedestrians are strongly recommended to follow the carriage-road and 
 avoid the short cuts, as the former alone commands an unobstructed view. 
 These paths, however, etTect a saving of 3 M. — The Baths of Bormio. 
 and the inns at Trafoi and Franzenshohe aflbrd good qiiarters for the night. 
 
 The road ascends from Tirano fsee above) through the vineyards 
 to the valley of Sernio. To the N. rises the precipitous Pit 
 Mn.succio { 9252') . a landslip from wliich in 1807 blockaded the 
 narrow bed of the Adda, and converted the populous and fertile 
 v;illey into a lake. At Lovera. 3 M. above Tirano. a house bears 
 the following inscription. 18' from the ground: Cadde il monte
 
 HOHMIO. f^fi. Route. 313 
 
 di Sernio e si ristette I' Adda impedita nel sua corso usoto; fin 
 qui montnron Vacque ed e notato tal caso 1807 . The devastation 
 caused by subsequent inundations is still observable. Grosotto 
 rAlberg;o Pinil. is a considerable village. 
 
 111/.2 M. BoUadore f*Post). On the W. slope of the nio\in- 
 tain stands the picturesque church of Sondido. The valley now 
 contracts, the southern character of the vegetation ceases ; along 
 the bottom of the valley dashes the grey glacier-water of the Adda. 
 About f) M. from Bolladore, the defile of La Serra, 1 M. in length, 
 separates the Valtellina from the territory of Rormio . the '■Paese 
 Freddo'. At the entrance to the r. are the fragments of an old 
 fortification, and beyond them the ruins of a more modern building. 
 The Ponte del Diayolo was the scene of a sharp skirmish between 
 Austrian and Garibaldian troops. June 26th, 1859. At the farther 
 extremity of the defile stands a group of houses (Morignone) in 
 a green dale; the church is situated on the mountain far above. 
 The next group of houses is a9. Antonio. 
 
 Beyond the village of Ceppina opens the broad green valley 
 (Piano) of Bormio . enclosed by lofty, precipitous, and barren 
 monntaijis, partially covered with snow. With the exception of 
 a few alders, willows, and pines, the vegetation is scanty. The 
 road traverses the valley in a straight line , crosses the muddy 
 Frodolfo , which below the bridge unites with the .\dda . and 
 takes a N.E. direction to • 
 
 12 Al. Bormio f4012n, Oer. Worms (Posta; a more agreeable 
 resting-place is the New Bath, IV2 ^- above Rormio. see below"), 
 an old-fashioned little town, situated at the entrance to the Val 
 Furra. and sheltered from the \. winds by lofty limestone rocks. 
 
 On the Frodolfo in the Val Furva, 3 Ins. S.E. of Bormio. is situated 
 S. Caterina (.5699'). a hath-ctablishment with aliout 50 rooms, unpre- 
 tending but tolerably comfortable. The strong chalybeate water is e.xportcd 
 in large quantities. 
 
 The Monte Conflnale (11,076') (ascended without difficulty from S. 
 f'aterina in S'l^ hr^:.) commands an admirable survey of the Ortler chain : 
 W. the Kcrnina. S.W. the Mte. della Discrazia, S. the Adamello, etc. 
 
 The Piz Umbrail (991.o') is another excellent point of view. The 
 Stelvio-rnad is followed as far as the 4th Cantoniera (Inn). 9 M. from 
 Rormio; then a tolerable footpath ascends N.W. , across meadows where 
 numerous Alpine plants are found, to the top, whence a splendid view of 
 the 3Its. of Tyrol and Rernina. Carriages to the Cantoniera may be hired 
 at Rormio. Guide unnecessary. 
 
 Very interesting excursion for practised mountaineers from Bormio by 
 Pedenos, Trepallc, and Livigno., to Ponte in the Engadine (p. 336) ; an expe- 
 rienced guide necessary. 
 
 At Bormio the windings of the new road begin. The *New 
 Bath (Batmi Nuovi , 4580'). a handsome building sitiiated on 
 rising ground, commanding a fine view of the valley of Bormio 
 and the surrounding mountains, was destroyed by Garibaldian 
 troops in 1869, but was afterwards re-erected by a Swiss com- 
 pany (B. 2I/-2. B. li/.2< I- a'lfl A. l>/4 fr."). It is much fre- 
 quented in July and August, but is dosed' towards the end of Sep-
 
 344 Route 86. S. MARIA. From Tirano 
 
 tember. The water (117°) is conveyed by pipes from the springs, 
 situated 1 M. higher, near the Old Bath (Bagni Vecchi) , which 
 is perched upon the face of the rock , and affords good accom- 
 modation. The bridge at the Bagni Vecchi was destroyed by the 
 Austrians in 1859 , during a series of skirmishes with Piedmon- 
 tese Alpine riflemen. Fine view from the tirst bridge. 
 
 The first cutting is now reached, the GaUeria dei Bagni. To 
 the 1. is the Old Bath and a deep , gloomy ravine. Magnificent 
 retrospect of the valley from Bormio to Ceppina , of Monte Co- 
 lombano [9656'J to the S.W. , the Val Pedenos to the W. , the 
 snow-clad Gavia (_! 1,434') and the ice-pyramid of Piz Tresero 
 (_11,604') to the S.E. About 1 M. farther the Brauglio, com- 
 monly termed the Source of the Adda, is precipitated from the 
 rocks to the 1. ; beyond it are several other waterfalls. 
 
 A succession of galleries, partly of wood, and partly hewn in 
 the rocks, constructed to afford protection against avalanches and 
 waterfalls, convey the road through the defile (U Diroccamento) 
 to the Cantoniera di Ptatta Martina (o971'), a hospice for the re- 
 ception of travellers, and the Cantoniera al piede di Spondalonga 
 (6906'), the latter a ruin since its destruction by the Garibaldians 
 in 1859. Adjacent to it are two picturesque waterfalls of the 
 Brauglio , which is precipitated from a cleft in the rock above, 
 and beyond it several others. 
 
 The road now ascends by innummerable windings, which the 
 pedestrian may avoid. The Casino dei rotteri di Spondalonga is 
 used by the road - menders ; then the Cantoniera al piano del 
 Brauglio in a green dale . and finally the Cantoniera al giogo 
 di S. Maria (8327'). 
 
 121/2 M. S. Maria (Jnn), the Ital. custom-house, is situated 
 in a bleak mountain basin , almost destitute of vegetation , and 
 surrounded by barren mountains. The ascent by carriage from 
 Bormio to this point occupies about AKi^ (the descent less than 
 2) hrs. ; the pedestrian can accomplish the ascent more ex- 
 peditiously, especially if he avail himself of the short-cuts. 
 
 A rough and narrow road (not recommended for driving), formerly the 
 only means of communication between the Vintschgau and Valtellina 
 (valleys of the Adige and Adda) , diverges to the 1. from the Cantoniera 
 S. 3Iaria to the Wormser Joch or Umbiail Pass (8245'), descending in 3 hrs. 
 (ascent 41J2) through the Muranza Valley to the Swiss village of S. Maria 
 in the Munsterthal (p. 337). and thence by Taujfers in 4 hrs. to Mais (p. 34G) 
 in the Etschthal. This walk will repay the pedestrian. 
 
 The Cantoniera 8. Maria lies 849' below the culminating 
 point of the Stelvio Pass , which is attained in less than 1 hr. 
 The road affords occasional glimpses of the Miinsterthal. Vege- 
 tation gradually disappears ; a scanty covering of moss alone grows 
 on the masses of rock. Immediately to the r. of the road rise 
 the huge icy masses of Monte Cristallo (11,470'). The pass is 
 never free from snow except in the height of summer, in warm
 
 to Nauders. 'STELVIO PAS.S. Sn. Route. 345 
 
 seasons; even in July snow-drifts, 6 — 8' in rleptli, are seen on the 
 road-side. 
 
 On the Stelvio Pass (904o'j , Ger. StUfser Joch . stands a 
 road-menders" house ; a pillar to the r. marks the boundary be- 
 tween Italy and the Tyrol. About Vj M. to the N. is the frontier 
 of Switzerland (^Orisons). 
 
 A footpath ascends by the workmen's house to the 1. in 2<t min. to a 
 rocky summit wliich commands an almost unlimited 'panorama. The view 
 of the Ortler (rj.S12'j. with its snowy summit surrounded with numerous 
 ice-peaks, which appear quite close to the spectator, is particularly striking. 
 To the S.E. rises the lofty Konigswand (Monte Zebru, i2.64b'j, beyond it the 
 Monte Ctvtidale (12.3*9'). Nearer are vast masses of ice (Monte Cnstallo) and 
 the ravines of the Stt^lvio route. In the distance to the S. the three snow- 
 clad peaks of the Corno dei Tre Hignori are visible ; to the N.W. the 
 Engadiue range; to the X.E. the snowy Weisskvgel and the mountains of 
 the Oetzthal. The barren red summit of Monte Fressura in the foreground 
 intercepts the view of the Miinsterthal. 
 
 The road now descends , skirting the talc-slate precipices, by 
 numerous windings, to the former post-station of 
 
 9 M. Franzenshohe (^7162') ( W'alhibfer's Inn, well spoken 
 of) destroyed in ib48 by Italian irregular troops , but now 
 restored. The huge Moudatsch or Madatsch Glacier, descending 
 from the Ortler, extends many hundred feet into the valley, 
 and is approached by t[ie road at the Cantoniera al Bosco, 
 destroyed in 1848. The Madatsch-Spitz is a black mass of 
 rock, which rises from the midst of the ice. Lower down, the 
 two Trafoi Glaciers descend from the Ortler. In the background 
 to the N. rises the broad snow-pyramid of the Weisskugel , the 
 highest point of the Oetzthal range. Far below lies the small 
 village of 
 
 4'/2 M. Trafoi (5079') (*Postj, consisting of some half dozen 
 houses. (^One-horse carr. to Prad 2''.2 fl.j 
 
 From Trafoi a visit to the (2'J4 M.) Three Holy Springs, which rise, 
 below in the valley at the foot of the Ortler. is particularly recommended. 
 The path (guide unnecessary) leads at the same level through raeadow.s, 
 wood, and hnally moraine. At the end of the valley are figures of Christ, 
 St. Mary, and St. John, protected by a roof: from the brea.'^t of each Hows 
 the very cold -holy water". Adjacent are a chapel, and a house which 
 affords accommodation to pilgrims. The entire scene , the black Mon- 
 datsch . the snowy Eiswand, and the blue glacier, with the little chapel 
 below, surrounded by pines . is singularly impressive . surpassed by few 
 among the Alps. 
 
 The road from this point downwards follows the course of the 
 Trafoi-Bach. At Gomagoi (Inn), the Austrian custom-house, 
 where large 'Defensive-Barracks" were erected in 1860. the wild 
 Suldenthal , 9 M. in length, terminated by the Sulden Glacier. 
 which is not visible from the Stelvio road, opens to the E. [The 
 principal place in the valley is N^ Gertrud or i^ulden (accommod. 
 at the cur^s). From the Gampenhof. i/.j hr. beyond St. Gertrud, 
 there is an imposing view of the Ortler. which was ascended 
 hence for the first time in 18(»r>. .loh. Pinggera. a good guide.]
 
 346 Route <*<6'. MALS. From Tiroho 
 
 The narrow valley scarcely affords room tor the road and 
 river. The latter forms several picturesque waterfalls. On the 
 height to the 1. is situated the village of Stilfs , Ital. Stelvio, 
 from which, though not on the road, this route derives its name ; 
 the houses are perched on the rocks like swallows' nests. Near 
 Prad the narrow, rocky passage expands, and the road enters the 
 broad Valley of the Adige. 
 
 9 M. Prad (31000 f-Pos^i. Bhio diPrad, or Brad. The road now 
 intersects the broad valley of the Etsch, or Adige, crossing a marsh 
 and the river by a long bridge, the frontier between the Tapper and 
 Lower Yintschgau, and reaches Spondinig f*Inu"l. U/.2 M. from Prad, 
 on the high-road from Bozen and Meran to Landeck and Innsbruck. 
 
 Pedestrians may avoid the sliadeless and fatiguing road from Prad 
 by Spondinig to Jfals by proceeding from Prad on the r. bank of the Adige, 
 skirting the mountains, \o Agi/ms, Lichtenberg (see below), and Glnrns (3*255'), 
 a small fortified town with ancient church, about 1^-z M. distant. — Those 
 who desire to visit the Stelvio Pass and its vicinity only are recommended 
 to adopt the following plan: From Prad to Trafoi in 3 hrs. ("Holy Foun- 
 tains' and back in li'ahr.), Franzenshilhe 2, Ferdinandshohe (summit) 2i|-.', 
 S. Maria '^[■>. Baths of Bormio 3 hrs. Back (ascent) to S. Maria in 4 bra., 
 thence by the Wormser .Toch to S. 3Iaria in the Miinsterthal (p. 337) in 
 3 hrs., Miinster ^\i. Taufers 3|4 , Mais lij.j hr. Guide nowhere necessary. 
 On the Tyrolese side the scenery is the finest; on the Ital. side the con- 
 struction of the road is very remarkable. 
 
 With Poat-horaea (other conveyances seldom to be procured) from Prad 
 to Trafoi in li'-i. S. Maria 3, New Bath of Bormio 2 hrs., ascent from the Bath 
 to S. Maria 4, summit of the pass 1, Prad 4 hrs. drive. Omnibus see p. 342. 
 
 The road to Nauders now skirts the base of the mountains 
 at some distance from the Adige , and traverses the Upper 
 Vintschgau. To the 1.. on the opposite bank of the river, rises 
 the handsome half-ruined cnstlo of Lichtenherg , the property of 
 Count Khuen. To the r. of the road, before Schluderns is 
 reached, is the Churburg, a chateau of Count Trapp . containing 
 a valuable collection of ancient armour. To the 1. is situated 
 Glurns (see above") , near which the Rambach descends from the 
 Miinsterthal fcomp. p. 337^ to the Adige. Tartsch is next passed, 
 and. near Mais, the ancient tower of the Frohlichsburg . 
 
 91/4 M. Mais (3477'! (*Post or Adler; Hirsch; Gani) is a 
 market-town of Roman origin. The church contains a picture of 
 considerable merit, 'The Death of Joseph'. Quaint fountain by 
 the road-side on quitting the town. 
 
 On the opposite bank of the Adige, on the slope of the moun- 
 tain , rises the extensive Benedictine Abbey of Marienherg. To 
 the 1., farther on, is the village of Burgeis , with its red spire, 
 and the castle of Fiirstenhurg. now occupied by a number of poor 
 families. The road ascends and attains the E. bank of the 
 Heider-See . through which the Adige flows. Fine retrospective 
 view, the Ortler in the background. Mais, Glurns, and Tartsch 
 lie so close together , that when seen from the height . they 
 appear to form one large straggling village. Beyond the Heider- 
 See the road reaches
 
 WIDEKS. HO. Route. ^M7 
 
 7 M. St. Vfilenti7i auf der IJeide (4(195') f*Post), formerly thf> 
 hospice of tlie bleak and rocky yfal.ter Jleide . where , in 1499. 
 SOOO troops of the Orisons defeated an army of the Emperor 
 Maximilian of double that number. 
 
 The road skirts the E. bank of the Mitfer-See, and leads to 
 C/raun , a vlllape at the entrance of the Lan(j - Tauferer- Thai. 
 which is terminated by hujre placiers (Gepaat.^ch and Vernagt). 
 To the 1. lies the muddy Refichen-See, the outlet of which is one 
 of the sources of the Adiire. Majrnificent *retrospect of the snow 
 and ice-tields of the Ortler ranpe which form the entire back- 
 ground: to the 1. are the Sulden and Lan.'* {rlaciers. in front of 
 these the Tschem/elser Horh.opitz . more distant the icy masses of 
 the Zufall (Cevedale) . then the lofty pyramid of Monte Zebru 
 {KoniriKspitz, 12,648'). finally to the r. the imposin.2 Ortler.<<pHz 
 (p. 345') itself. This view is most strikingly grnnd and impressive 
 when the spectator approaches it from Naudors. Resrhen ('4574'') 
 (*Sonne") , lies at the N. extremity of the lake. Beyond it the 
 summit of the Reschen-Scheideck f4898') is reached, the watershed 
 between streams descending on one side to the Black Sea . and 
 on the other to the Adriatic. The road now descends by the 
 Stnie Bach to 
 
 M. Nauders (4437'1 (Po.H; Mondschein) ; the old castle of 
 Xaudersberg contains the district courts of judicature. 
 
 Mall epos te to Bozen twice weekly in 13^ ^4 hrs. Comp. 
 Baedeker's S. Germany. 
 
 87. From Nauders to Bregenz by Landeck and 
 Feldkirch. Finstermiinz . Arlberg. 
 
 70'|-2 31. 31 a 1 lepo.'« t from Nauders to Landeck 4 times weekly in o hrs., 
 from Landeck tn Feldkirch once daily in tl hrs., from Feldkirch to Bregenz 
 once daily in S^'n hrs. Stellwagen fvery slow) between \auders and 
 Landeck daily ; also Po s t - o m n i b n s daily between Landeck and Feld- 
 kirch (sloi)i)infr for the ni^ht at St. Anton in fioing . and at Landeck in 
 rt'turning). 
 
 The road through the ^Fin.^termunz Pas.<t. completed in 1855, 
 traverses the mountain-side at a great height . the rocks having 
 been blasted in several places to afford it a passage (3 tunnels, 2 gal- 
 leries as a protection against avalanches'), and commands beautiful 
 views of the narrow valley of the Inn. [The route into the Enga- 
 dine, R. 84, crosses the narrow ridge W. of Nauders, which se- 
 parates the valley of the Stille Bach from the Innthal (see abovey] 
 
 At the commencement of the pass are some small forti- 
 fications. Beyond these, a picturesque waterfnll. The principal 
 point of interest on the entire route is *Hoch Finstermunz , a 
 group of houses with an inn. Far below is the ancient Finster- 
 miinz (3294'V ^\■ith its tower and a bridge over the Inn; the 
 narrow ravine through which the Inn flows presents a most
 
 348 Route 87. LANDECK. Frotn Nauders 
 
 picturesque scene , the mountains of the Engadine forming the 
 background. 
 
 The new road descends gradually, and crosses the Inn near 
 
 yi/2 ^i- i't^ndfi (^*Traube; *PostJ, which consists of two groups 
 of houses Sc^parated by the Inn; the group on th:^ r. bank, in 
 which the parish -church stands, is termed the ^Dorf ; that 
 on the 1. bank . through which the road runs , is the 'Stuben'. 
 To the E. the distant Uetzthal glaciers are visible. The road again 
 rross^s to the r. bank by a handsome bridge near Tosens. 
 
 y'/4 M. Ried (^2881'J (Post; AdLer) , a considerable village, 
 with the castle of Siegmundsried , seat of the district tribunal. 
 The Capuchin monastery on the S. side was erected in the 
 17th cent. , with the object of counteracting the advance of the 
 Reformation from Switzerland. Prutz [Rose), where the road crosses 
 to the 1. bank , lies in a marshy plain at the mouth of the 
 Kaunserthai , in which is situated the shrine of Kaltenbrunn , a 
 favourite resort of pilgrims. 
 
 To the 1. above Prutz, on an abrupt precipice on the 1. bank, 
 stand the ruins of the castle of Laudtgg ; near it lies the village 
 of Ladis, with sulphur-baths (^moderate charges), 1 hr. from Prutz ; 
 ^'•2 hr. higher is ObLadis, a handsome edifice surrounded by forest, 
 and delightfully situated . with celebrated mineral springs and 
 baths, the bcjst-regulated establishment of the kind in the Tyrol 
 (the property of a company), but unfortunately inaccessible by 
 carriage. 
 
 The road now recrosses to the r. bank of the river by the 
 PonUatz Bridge^ 6 M. from Landeck. 
 
 The Pontlatz Bridge has on various occasions proved a scene of 
 disaster to the Bavarians during their incursions into the Tyrol. In 17U3 the 
 Tyrolese militia (Landsturm) here so completely annihilated the Bavarian 
 army which was endeavouring to force its way through the Vintschgau 
 into S. Tyrol, that only a mere handful of fugitives escaped to convey 
 the tidings to the Elector 3Iax Emmanuel at Innsbruck. A body of r20.) 
 Bavarians who had entered the country with a similar intention, met with 
 the same fate on August 8th and 9th, Irfi (i. The bridge of Prutz (see above) 
 had been destroyed by the Tyrolese. but that of Pontlatz was vigorously 
 defended by the Bavarians. The aiarni-bell was pealing from every churcn 
 and chapel on the mountains : armed men tlocked in from all quarters ; 
 rocks and trvmks of trees were hurled upon the enemy, and the well- 
 directed lire of the sharpshooters thinned their ranks. The dragoons, the 
 artillery who followed them, and a battalion intended to cover the retreat, 
 found themselves unable to recross the bridge ; the waggons and cannon 
 were crushed by falling masses of rock, some of them from 6' to 8' in dia- 
 meter, or were precipitated , together with their drivers , into the gorge 
 of the Inn below. 1 he defile was soon covered with masses of rock, trees, 
 and dead and wounded soldiers and horses . presenting a scene of in- 
 describable horror andc onfusion. 
 
 Above Flies stands the chateau of Bidentck. A short distance 
 beyond, on the 1. bank, a fall of the Urgbach. The Inn here 
 dashes through a narrow gorge, and forms a series of cataracts. 
 
 ^1/4 M. Landeck (26A0' ) (^^chwarzer Adter; Post; Gotdener 
 AdlerJ , situated on both banks of the inn , is a considerable
 
 to Bregenz. ARLBERG. 87. Route. 349 
 
 village; above it towers the ancient Fate Landtck, now tenanted 
 by several poor families. The routes of the Arlberg , the lower 
 valley of the Inn, and the Vintschgaii unite here. fFrom Landeck 
 to Innsbruck diligence once daily in 10 hrs.; comp. Baedeker'.'^ 
 l^. Germany.^ 
 
 The Arlberg road crosses the Inn by a handsome wooden 
 bridge, with a span of 110'; it then quits the river, turns 
 towards the E. . and crosses the Sanna , which falls into the 
 Inn below the bridge. The Sanna is formed by the confluence 
 of the Trisanna, which emerges from the Paznauner Thai, 41/2 M. 
 higher up , and the Rosanna , which issues from the Valley of 
 Stanz. The road now traverses the latter valley . after passing 
 through the beautifully situated village of Pians (*Poll, near the 
 church^. At the mouth of the Pazvauver Thai, upon an isolated 
 rock , stands the ruined castle of Wiesbery . a very picturesque 
 object, visible from various points of the road. This entire 
 district . indeed , affords a succession of pleasing pictures , espe- 
 cially near Strengen , a short distance farther. The Rosanna 
 dashes through its narrow and rocky gorge , forming several 
 waterfalls. The road is steeper on the E. side of the Arlberg 
 than on the W., and ascends by numerous windings on the bank 
 of the stream. 
 
 9 M. Flirsch (3786') (Post). From Flirsch to the Arlberg a 
 monotonous Alpine valley. The Klamm near Schnan (4003') is a 
 remarkable defile, 390' long and 30' wide, enclosed by precipices 
 TiOO' high, which approach each other so nearly as almost to meet. 
 From this gorge emerges the Schnanerbach . Pedestrians should 
 ascend to this ravine, and traverse it as far as a crater -like 
 basin, about 1 M. from Schnan. 
 
 71/2 M. St. Anton (4866') (*Post), a small village on the E. 
 ^lope of the Arlberg. The hospice of St. Christoph, consisting of 
 a church and inn, lies V2 ^I- helow the summit of the Pass 
 ( 5902') of the Arlberg, or Adlerberg, the watershed between the 
 Rhine and the Danube. A short distance beyond is the boundary 
 between the Tyrol and the Yorarlberg , indicated by posts. The 
 voad now winds down to 
 
 7V2 M. Stuben (43'24') (*Post), an insignilicant village at the 
 W. foot of the Arlberg. at the upper extremity of the Kloster- 
 ThaL through which the Alfen.<bach flows, and the road descends. 
 (Bregenzer Wold and Schrcecken see p. 351.) 
 
 About IV'_> M. beyond Stuben is a waterfall: then a more 
 considerable duo (after passing Kio.'^terle and M\dd) between 
 
 71/2 M. Dalaas (2743') (*Post} and Bratz (on the 1.). Near 
 the nunnery of St. Peter, now used as an hospitnl. the road 
 reaches the III, which issues from the Montafuner Thai (see below), 
 and immediatelv bevond it.
 
 350 Route 87. FELDKIRCM. From Nauders 
 
 9 M. Bludenz (^iT58') C^Fost; Kreuz), with a manufactory on 
 the 1. Tiie scenery here is very picturesque. 
 
 The picturesque green Montafuner Tnal, Watered by the 111, is a popu- 
 Juus valley abouudiug in cherry-trees . Iroiu the fruit of which a much- 
 esteemed -Kirschwasser' is exacted. The chief village is >Schruns {^'206i' } 
 (Taube, Lowe), 12 M. from lirudenz. Several passes ( Schlappiner Jocli., 
 at. Anlonier Joch, Druseii Thoi\ Schweizef Thor) lead from the Jlontafuner 
 Thai to the Prattigau (.p. 314), commanding magnilicent views. 
 
 Tiie uighest mountain of the Kaeticon Chain (p. 314) is the Scesa- 
 plana ty<3c5 , scesa seat, plana tlat), the summit of which, in the form of 
 u truncated cone , is named by the inhabitants of the district iseiiiikopf, 
 fichila/i, or Brandiier Ftrner. It is usually ascended from Bludenz , a fa- 
 tiguing , but not dangerous excursion; Xeye is recommended as a guide. 
 Tue path passes througli Brand, where guides may also be obtained, 
 and skirts the E. .side of the beautiful Liiner Lakt , bordered with 
 rhododendrons, on the S. side of which is a chalet (4U88'), where a night s 
 lodging may be procured \ distance from Bludenz about 4 hrs. The 
 remainder of the ascent occupies 4 hrs., 3 hrs. across loose stones. ^\\ hr. 
 cliinOing, ^^■> hr. on the ridge of the mountain (10 min. on the highest arm 
 of the C).\V. glacier). The ascent may also be made by Vanda/is , a 
 village in the 3Iontafuner Thai, tlirough the Ktlls-Tlial to the Liiner 
 Lake , returning to Bludenz by Brand. The ascent on the Priittigau-side, 
 from tJeewis (p. 315), is more diflicult. The view embraces the whole of 
 tiwabia as far as L'lm, tne Lakes of Zurich and \\'allenstadt, tlxe mountains 
 of Appenzeli , Bern, and the Tyrol as far as the txross-Glockner , and the 
 entire valley of the llhine. 
 
 Thj entire breadth of the valley beyond is occupied in several 
 places by the stony bed of the river. The ravine contracts near 
 tlie bridg '. Near Feldkirch the ill has for.;ed a passage through 
 a lofty precipice of limestone roi'k, before descending to the broad 
 valley of th ' Rhine. 
 
 U) M. Feldkirch (^i462'J {^'Posi; Eaytiscke,- Hof , R. 10, L. 
 2U, B. oU kr., D. I fl. ; EnytL; Lowe), an episcopal residence, 
 with an important Jesuit seminary (SttUa Matutina), situated on 
 the high road from Switzerland to the Tyrol , and surrounded 
 by mountains, is a natural fortress, and the key to the Tyrol on 
 this side. Above the town are the ruins of the castle of Schat- 
 tenbury. The Parhk Church, erected in 1487, possess:^s a 
 'Descent from the Cross" attributed to Holbein ; another painting 
 on the same subject is in the Capuchin Church. A beautiful 
 view over the entire vail -y of the Rhine, from the Falknisalp to 
 the Lake of Constance, and over the gorge of the 111, is obtained 
 from the *»Sf. Maryarethenkapf, a park-like eminence, 1/4 hr. 
 W. of Feldkirch (^th ; path diverges to the 1. near the bridge 
 over the JUj. iDUiyence crossing the Rhine to rail. stat. Haay 
 (^p. '26'6) in 11/4 hr., to stat. Oberried (p. 283j in iV4 hr.] 
 
 This neighbo irhood , and especially the Deille of Feldkirch, has fre- 
 quently been the scene of .sanguinary encounters. In ITUU, after taking the 
 intrenchments of Feldkirch by storm, Ma.sstita advanced on the town, but 
 was repulsed by the Austrians. General J/olitor was not more fortunate 
 the following year. 
 
 The lU, the Frutz, which falls into the Rhine near Gotzis, 
 and th • latter river itself have converted this district into a marshy 
 plain. Above th ^ debris at intervals rise several wooded knolls,
 
 to Bregene. BREGEN2i. 87. Route. 35l 
 
 the most considerable of which is the ICumerberg , 850' above 
 the Rhine. Near Gbtzis are the ruins of two castles of the Mont- 
 fort family, 
 
 9 M. Hohenembs (Fast), a town situated at the foot of abrupt 
 rocks, with tin- <astles of Neu and Ait- Hohenembs. The abundant 
 timber of the neighbourhood is employed in the construction of 
 wooden houses, which are taken to pieces and exported to Switzer- 
 land. The Church contains a tine relief in marble at the high- 
 altar; the cardinal's hat of S. Carlo Borrom.o is also preserved 
 here. The castle, erected in 15(34, belongs to the princes of 
 Waldburg-Zeil. 
 
 From flohenembs and Durubirn Diligence to stat. An (see p. 283) twice 
 daily in 1 In-- 
 
 Dornhirn, a straggling town, 3 M. in length, is a manu- 
 facturing place, with an air of great prosperity. The new church 
 bears the inscription 'Bomus Dei tt Porta CoeW (^Path to the 
 iSchrcecken, see below). 
 
 12 M. Bregenz (^^ISio'J {*Oesterreichischer Hof, K. 54, B. 30, 
 L. and A. 3U kr. ; ^Schwarzer Adier, smaller, both on the lake; 
 *Gold. Adler; *Krone), the chief town of the Vorarlberg {j. e. 
 'district in front of the Arlberg J, the Briyantia of tiie Romans, 
 lies on the S.E. bank of the Lake of Constance. The Oldj or 
 Upper Town, on an eminence, occupies the site of an ancient 
 Jioman Camp, and formerly possessed two gates, of which that 
 to the S. no longer exists. 
 
 Steamboats on the Lake of Constance, see p. 20. 
 The Gebhardsberg , or Schlossberg C~'^i') {^n br. ascent, the latter 
 part thruuj^li wood), du the sumiuit nf which are a ruined castle of the 
 Counts of 3Ionttort, an inn (good telescope), and a pilgrimage-church, com- 
 mands an extensive prospect, embracing the entire Lake ot Constance, the 
 valley of the Bregenzer Acb and the Rhine, the Alps, and the snow-mouu- 
 tains of Appenzell and Glarus ; the foreground is formed by picturesque 
 piue-clad mountains. The path to the Schlossberg passes by the church- 
 yard , which contains a monument to the Austrian Field-marshal IJutzt ^ a 
 Swiss by birth , who fell in 1799 near Schanis (p. 42) in an engagement 
 with the French. 
 
 Another line point of view, recommended to those who do not care to 
 ascend so high, is the Bregenzer Klause , ',4 hr. from Bregenz. — An un- 
 interrupted 'prospect over the mountains of the Tyrol , the Algau. and 
 Switzerland is commanded by the summit of the Pfinder (3478) (inn With 
 2 beds), to the N.E. of Bregenz (ascent 2'|-2 hrs.). In favourable weather 
 3Ionte Rosa is said to be visible by the side of the Tcidi. 
 
 Diligence to St. Margaret hen (p. 283) twice daily in >J4 hr. 
 F r o m B r e g e n z t o t h e S c li r <e c k e n is a very interesting e.vcursiou 
 of 12—14 hrs. through the Bregenzer Wald, the N.\V. portion of the Vor- 
 arlberg Alps, a thickly peopled district traversed by the Bregenzer Ach. 
 The broad valley of the Rhine is lirst ascended as far as Hchwarzach (1870'), 
 then the mountains on the E. to (9 31.) Alberschicende (2208') (Taube) [or 
 better still by Dornbirn, see above, and on foot over the Hochdlple (47tK»')J, 
 and Schwarzenberg (4' •_• 31.) (iiirsch). Then by Metlau (beyond the Ach, 
 to the r., is the small watering place lieutte) u\ (9 31.) ISchnepfaii ; (3 31. j " 
 Ah (^R.issle); (3 31.) Hchopernau (2903) ('Krone). The journey may be 
 accomplished thus far in a light carriage. 
 
 From this point the steep ascent to the Srhroecken (38i2'), through wild 
 scenery, passing the small sulphur baths of J/op/reben. occupies 3— i hrs.
 
 352 Route 88. REICHENAU. From Coire 
 
 At the bottom of a vast basin, around which mountains rise to the height of 
 6000' — 8000', covered with forest and pastures at their base, and with snow 
 on their summits, on a grassy terrace enclosed by precipices and the foaming 
 waters of the Ach which precipitates itself from the mountains, is seen the 
 little church of Schroecken , and adjacent to it a new "^Inn and a small 
 group of houses (3740'\ The tableau is especially striking when approached 
 from the Arlberg. from Slithen (p. 349) (6 hrs.) by the village ^-l??* Lech or 
 Thambev'j (4364') (Krone), situated at the confluence of the sources of the 
 Lech, whence a guide is necessary. 
 
 From the Felt-Alp., ^\\ hr. from the SchrcEcken , is seen to the !N. the 
 rocky pyramid of the Widderstein (7904') , and a superb waterfall of the 
 Ach ! and to the S.W. a glacier on the sides of the Rothe Wand (8852'), 
 whence a brook precipitates itself. 
 
 Mountain-paths from the Schroecken (N.E.) to the Illerthal , as far as 
 Oberstdorf in Bavaria, see Baedeler\s S. Germany. 
 
 88. From Coire to Spliigen. Via Mala. 
 
 Comp. Maj), p. 306. 
 323j4 M. Diligence three times daily to Spliigen (9 fr. 90 c.) in 7, 
 thence to Chiavenua twice daily in 6 hrs. •, 3 seats in the coupe, 6 in the 
 interior , 1 by the conductor, and I on the box (comp. Introd. IX). Cor- 
 respondence with the early train from St. Gall and Rorschach, see p. 282. 
 From Spliigen travellers proceed at once by another diligence over the 
 Bernardino (p. 362). Those who wish to enjoy the scenery, should secure 
 a place which commands a view . or avail themselves of the diligence as 
 far as Thusis only, thence proceeding to Andeer (71,2 M.), or Splugen (17 JI.) 
 on foot. The road from Coire to Reichenau (6 M.) is unsuited for pedestrians 
 in hot and dusty weather ; but the walk from Reichenau to Thusis (11 M.) 
 is replete with interest. Two-horse carr. from Coire to Spliigen 60, to 
 Chiavenna 125, to Colico 150 fr. 
 
 As Coire is quitted, the Barracks, the esplanade, and an agri- 
 cultural school for poor children are seen on the r. The scenery 
 is uninteresting as far as Reichenau. On the opposite bank of 
 the Rhine (crossed by a new bridge), at the foot of the Calanda 
 (p. Q8o) . lies the village of Felsberg . which is menaced with a 
 fate similar to that of Goldau (p. 54"). Large masses of the rock 
 fell in 1850. 
 
 The road passes through the handsome Romansch village of 
 Ems, Romansch Donat (1879', Rom. Cath.), near the ruins of the 
 ancient castle of Hohenems. The chapel on the eminence con- 
 tains an image of the Virgin , said to have been brought down 
 from the Oberland and deposited here by the waters of the Rhine. 
 Some geologists maintain that the various hills in this neighbour- 
 hood, and those around Reichenau, have been formed by alluvial 
 deposits. (A footpath diverging to the 1. from the road above Ems 
 enters the iorest, and then skirts the r. bank of the Rhine to 
 Thusis; it is 1 hr. shorter than the high-road, but disagreeably 
 stony and not recommended.) Near Reichenau the road crosses 
 the Rhine by a dark covered bridge of one arch. 252' long, and 
 85' above the river. 
 
 6 M. Reichenau (1922'J (*AdLer, R. 1, B. 1 fr., formerly 
 a monastery, rooms with vaulted ceilings), a group of houses be- 
 longing to the castle, lies at the confluence of the Vorder-Rhein and 
 the Hinter-Rhein. The best view of the rivers is obtained from the
 
 to Splwjen. r.ONADUZ. -s'-S. Route. 353 
 
 terrace of the garden of .1/. de Planta , near the Imtcl. In the 
 struggle of the two streams at their junction, tlie Vordor-Ilhein, 
 in spite of its superior volume, is driven back hy the impetuous 
 current of the Ilinter-Khcin, which descends from the Dernardinft. 
 On the W. the snow-dad liriyelser Horn towers above the moun- 
 tains of the Oberland. The garden, which is always accessible, 
 is pleasantly laid out, and contains a well-kept hot- house, etc. 
 The chateau, opposite the entrance to the garden, was erected by 
 the Bishops of Coire , and was named by them after the Abbey 
 of Reichenau on the Lake of Constance (p. 20). It is now the pro- 
 perty of M. de Planta. In 1794 Louis Philippe sought refuge 
 here, and several memorials of his visit still exist. 
 
 A second covered wooden Bridge (in passing through which 
 outside passengers must stoop) crosses the Vorder-RUein above Rei- 
 chenau, immediately before its confltieiice with the Hinter-Rhein. 
 In the vicinity is a large Saw -mill with several circular saws. 
 (Post-road to Dissentis see p. 307; footpath to Bad Pfaffers by the 
 Kunkelsalp, p. 287.) 
 
 The fruitful valley, of which the E. side is termed Domleschp, 
 Roman. Domgiasca, or Tomiliasca (vallis domestica) , the W. side 
 Heinzenberg. Roman. Montagna, traversed bv the road to Thusis 
 on the 1. bank of the Hinter-Rhein, is 7>,-. M. long and 2 M. wide. The 
 Rhine, which until a few years ago occupied nearly the entire width of 
 the valley, is now confined Within due limits by large embankments. The 
 sides of the valley are remarkable for their fertility, their charming scenery, 
 and the numerous castles which frown from almost every eminence on the r. 
 bank. The mi.xture of languages and creeds in this district cannot fail to 
 strike the traveller. At Coire the German language and Protestantism 
 prevail, Ems is Romansch and Rom. Cath. , Reichenau Germ, and Prot., 
 Bonaduz (separated from Reichenau only by the Vorder-Rhein) , Rhdziins, 
 and Katiis Roman, and Rom. Cath., the lleinzenberg Prot. and (in part) 
 Germ., Thusis Germ, and Prot., Schams (Zillis, Andeer, and the mountain- 
 villages) Roman, and Prot. The German villages of the Rheinwaldthal from 
 Suvers to Hinter-Rhein form the limit of Protestantism and the Romansch 
 language. Then, beyond the Bernardino, the valley of Misox, belonging to 
 the Grisons, is Ital. and Rom. Cath. 
 
 The road soon ascends for a short distance. 1 M. Bonaduz 
 12146') (Post; Krone, on the 1. at the end of the village), Rom. 
 Pan-a-tots' (bread for all), is probably so named from the fertility 
 nf its fields. 3/4 M. Rhazuns (Raetia Ima] , a village with a 
 liandsome castle on a rock rising from the Rhine, the property of 
 the Vieli family. From the road a fine retrospective view of the 
 < astle of Rhdziins , the chapel of St. George , the church of 
 Tamins, the Calanda in the background, and the church of FcW/.s 
 above , on an eminence on the r. bank of the Rhine. The two 
 banks are connected by the Bridge of Rothenhrunnen. 
 
 On the right bank is the ruinetl castle of Xieder-Juralta; 
 farther on are the Baths of Rothenhrunnen , a weak chalybeate ; 
 above it the ruins of Ober-Juralta , and the handsome chateaux 
 of Ortenstein and Paspels. Farther on are the ruins of the church 
 of St. Lorenz. and the chateaux of Canova., Rietberg, Fiirstenau, 
 
 B/EDKHEll., Switzerland, ath Edition. 23
 
 354 Boute 88. THUSIS. From Coire 
 
 Baklenstein (on the Albula), and Ehrenfels, tlie latter near Hohen- 
 Bhaetien (j^. 355). 
 
 On the left bank , on an eminence , stands the ruined castle 
 of (3 M.) Realta, not visible from the road. Below this castle 
 by the road-side is a large country -inn, 'Zur Rheincorrection. 
 On the 1. side of the road, the large Penitentim-y of the Canton 
 of the Orisons. Near (21/4 M.j Katzis (2188') (Kreuz) a nun- 
 nery on the r. ; beautiful landscape. To the 8. is the snow-dad 
 summit of the Pi% ('uroer; beyond this, to the 1., the Schyn Pass 
 with the majestic Piz St. Michel in the background; to the N. 
 the Tinzenhorn with the Ringelspitz (^10.971 'J. Near Thusis, on 
 a terrace by the cheerful village of Masein ., stands the castle of 
 Tagstein with pleasure-grounds, formerly the ancestral castle of 
 the Capol family , as an inscription over the portal records. 
 The Landsgemeinde (p. 75) meets every two years on the mea- 
 dows near Cresta. 
 
 11 M. Thusis (2326'), Ital. Tosanna, Rom. Tusaun (Tusciaj 
 {*Via Mala in the principal street, R. 3, B. 11/4, A. 3/^ fr., 
 Avith the de'pendance ^Pension Via Mala, finely situated ; *Adl€r 
 or Post; *Rhaetia; pension in all. Beer at the Felsenkeller on 
 the Rosenbiihl), 21/4 M. from Katzis, on a spur of the Heinzen- 
 berg , has been rebuilt in a superior style since a fire in 1845. 
 Like many other villages in the Orisons, it is believed to derive 
 its name from fugitive Tuscans. It is well adapted for a stay of 
 some duration, and as head-quarters for excursions. 
 
 From Thusis to Tiefenkasten. The 'Schyn Koad constructed in 
 1868 and 1869 (not to be confounded with the old Schyn-Pass, p. 319) leads 
 on the S. side of the Albula (diligence once daily in 2 hrs., in connection 
 with the diligences across the Julier and Albula). This route forms, as 
 it were, a central connecting link in the network of roads extending over 
 the Orisons, and commands a succession of picturesque and imposing views. 
 Immediately beyond Thusis it crosses the Xolla and the Rhine at the foot 
 of the Hohen-Rhsetien. Before (3J4 M.) Sils (Inn -Pass Mai) is reached, the 
 road passes the ruin of Ehrenfels , then the small chateau of Balduinstein ; 
 it next ascends to Camp'i {Campo Bella, ruin of the ancestral seat of the 
 Carapell family) and the farm of [2^'n M.j Ramplagnas. Pretty view hence 
 of the church of Solis, which continues in sight. Then through the 
 ancient forest of Vevzasca. A ravine on the r. is crossed by a bridge of 
 the old Mutten road, visible high above the new road. The 'Pass Mal\ 
 which begins here, has rendered galleries of masonry and extensive cuttings 
 in the rock necessary in the construction of the road. 'I2 M. Small inn. 
 Fine view of the ravine of Mutten from the bridge which crosses it. The 
 new road to the r. ascends to (3 M.) Mutten (Inn unpi-etending, but good. 
 The Muttner Horn., 6609', commanding a fine prospect, may be ascended hence 
 in 1 hr. ; first part of the way by a good path, then across grassy slopes). 
 3J4 31. Uiitei'- Solis , a hamlet with a spring containing iodine. On the 
 height to the 1. are the chalets (p. 319) and the village of Vbervatz. Near 
 the last gallery a fine retrospect is obtained of the Heinzenberg and the 
 peaks of the Albula group. The road now crosses the Albula by the 'Solis 
 Bridge. 257 ft. above the stream, and ascends by a curve to the village of 
 (2M.) Alvaschein {Postablage, poor). Near Stiirvis a waterfall. Farther on. 
 to the r. below the road, is the clmrch of Miisiail, the oldest in the 
 Albula valley, and formerly used as a burial-place. At Unter-Milstail there 
 is an alkaline mineral spring. The road unites with the Julier route near 
 Tiefenkasten (p. 323).
 
 to Splugen. VIA MALA. ^^. lioulf. 355 
 
 The NoUa flows into the Khiiie on the S. side of Thiisis. Uii 
 .Sept. 27th. 18bb , its swollen and turbid stream was discharged 
 like a vast torrent of mud into the Rhine, the waters of which it 
 forced back for some distance, thus contributing considerably to 
 increase the devastations in the lower Rheinthal. 
 
 The Lake of Liixch (6003'), situated on the Heinzenberg (p. 3o3j, above 
 the village of TscJiappina ^ has no visible outlet. Its water softens the 
 porous slate of its banks to the consistency of mud, large masses of which 
 periodically slide dow^n to the Nolla. Tschappina itself is built in part 
 on a shifting foundation, some of its buildings having been a^jcertsined tn 
 ihange their positions. 
 
 The view from the Nolla bridge is very remarkable. In the 
 background of the valley towers the barren Piz Beverin (984!-)'). 
 On the r. bank of the gorge , through w hich the lihine tlows, 
 stand the ruins of the castle of Holitn-Wiaetien or Hoch-Realt 
 (Hoch Ryalt , Raetia Alta), o9G' above the river. This is the 
 most ancient castle in Switzerland, founded, according to tradition, 
 by the legendary hero Raetus , leader of the Etruscans during 
 their retreat before the Gauls, B. C. 587, 166 years after the 
 founding of Rome. On the N. side of the mountain is the Chapel 
 of St. John, the most ancient Christian church in the valley. Fine 
 view of the entire Domleschg (p. 35.3). 
 
 From 1470 to 1822 the road here ascended the course of the 
 Nolla through forest, and entered the gorge below Rongellen (see 
 below). The path through the gorge , the celebrated *Via Mala, 
 was then only 4' wide, and followed the 1. bank the whole way. 
 The new road was constructed , and the old path considerably 
 widened, in 1822. The limestone-rocks rise almost perpendicularly 
 on both sides to a height of 1600'. A short distance from the 
 entrance , near the Kdnzeli , the retrospective view is very tine. 
 About l'/.2 M. from Thusis is a Gallery, 200' in length, pene- 
 trating the solid and perpendicular rock. Immediately beyond it 
 is a partially open gallery, over which the rocks project. The 
 roaring river is visible at the bottom of the gorge, from the point 
 where the side- wall ceases and the wooden railings recommence. 
 The ^'retrospective view, through the narrow and gloomy delile, 
 of the solitary tower of Hohen-Rhietien, and the sunny slopes of 
 the Heinzenberg beyond, is singularly beautiful. 
 
 Near the ('V4 M.) *Post-station (refreshments and a few beds) 
 of the little village of Ronytllen , which stands on an eminence 
 to the r. , the gorge expands into a small basin. Soon after, 
 however, the precipices again approach eai'h other. The road 
 crosses the river three times at short intervals : '^/^ M. (from the 
 post-stat.) lirst bridge, built in 1738; '/4 M. *second bridge, 
 built in 1738, where the scene is most imposing. The Rhine. 
 300' below the road, winds through a ravine so narrow that the 
 precipices above almost meet. On Aug. 27th, 1834, and on 
 Sept. 28th, 1868, the river rose to within a few feet of the 
 
 0:\ *
 
 35(i Route 88. ANDEER. From Coire 
 
 arch of the bridge. At the ( I1/4 M. ) third bridge (2736'1 
 (erected after the inundation of 1834) the Via Mala ends. 
 
 The road now enters the more open Valley of Schams (2838' ) 
 ( Vallis Sexamniensis , ' valley of the six streams ' descending 
 from the mountains on the r. and 1.; Ital. Sessame), the green 
 meadows and cheerful habitations of which look doubly attractive 
 to the traveller after the sombre passage of the Via Mala. In the 
 background to the S. are the peaks of the Hirli (5628'). Above 
 the old bridge, the Rhine forms a small waterfall. The first vil- 
 lage in the valley of Schams (6 M. from Thusis) is ZiUis, Rom. 
 Ciraun (3061') (refreshments at the post-stat.). with the most an- 
 cient church in the valley, of which the tower is the oldest part. 
 
 ' Piz Beverin (9843'). coraniandinjr a magnificent prospect, may be as- 
 cended from Zillis. Andeer. or Schams, in 7 — 8 hrs. : guide 5 fr. A very 
 fatiguing e.xciirsion, but unattended with danger. 
 
 On the eminence to the r.. on the 1. bank of the Rhine, above 
 the village of Donat, behind which rises the Piz Beverin, stands 
 the ruined castle of Fardiin, or La Turr, formerly the residence of 
 the governors of the valley. About the middle of the 15th cent., 
 the brutal behaviour of one of these officials, like that of Gessler 
 150 years previously, was the cause of the emancipation of this district 
 from their oppressive sway. Entering the cottage of a peasant, 
 against whom he harboured some resentful feeling, the tyrant spat 
 into the boiling broth prepared for the midday meal. The pea- 
 sant, Johann Caldar, seized him by the throat, plunged his head 
 into the scalding liquid, exclaiming: 'Eat the soup thou hast 
 seasoned' C-Malgia sez il pult cha ti has condiit'), and strangled 
 him. This was the signal for a general rising. 
 
 Near the Baths of Pigneu (destroyed by an inundation in 1834, 
 and afterwards by fire; the waters, which contain iron and alkali, 
 are conveyed by a conduit to Andeer, and there used for baths) 
 a glacier-torrent is crossed by a bridge, which was the last com- 
 pleted on this route, and bears the following inscription on the E. 
 parapet: ^Jam via patet hostibus et amicis. Cavete Rhaeti! simpU- 
 citas morum et unio servabunt avitam libertatem' . 
 
 71/2 M. Andeer (3212') (*Krone, or Hotel Fravi). the princi- 
 pal village of the valley, with a Prot. Romansch pop. of 583. Near 
 the village stands the tower of the castle of Castellatsch ; fine 
 view of the valley from the church (erected in 1673). 
 
 From Andeer to Stalla (12 good hrs., the traveller should take 
 provisions and wine from Andeer, and start early), a laborious expedition 
 which perhaps scarcely repays the fatigue. The path a.«cends the wild 
 Valley of Ferrera (see below), passing through Auxser-Fenera and Inner- 
 Ferrera (or Catiiciil . 4869', Ger. Nundelocfi), 3>|-.. hrs. S. of Andeer (re- 
 freshments at the cure'.s). The upper part of the valley , with a German 
 population, is named the Arerser Thai. From (3'|2 hrs.) Cresta (6295') (Inn 
 very unpretending) in the Averser Thai to (Ujc hr.) Juf; thence (guide ne- 
 cessarv) towards the E. to the summit of the pass, the Stallerbercr or Va- 
 letta Pasf (8478') IM2 hr. : descent in 2 hrs. to Stalla. ,«ee p. 324. — From 
 Jvf a path leads towards the S.E. over the Forcellina (8769') direct to the 
 Heptimer (p. 324).
 
 to Spliigen. 8PLUGEN. H8. RouU. *ir)T 
 
 FromCaniciil toPianazzo on the Spliigen route (guide necessary ; 
 the son of the pastor at Caniciil recommended). The path ascends through 
 the forest in the Val Emet^ skirtinji the precipice on the r., to the chalets 
 of the Emel Alp (619i') , whence the stone man' tnx the summit of the 
 Passo di Madesimo (748i') is visible- though there still remains two good 
 hours' walk over the soft and uneven soil of the Alp before that point is 
 reached. Retrospective view of the Piz Bertrin , and beyond this the Ca- 
 landa; from the summit of the pa.ss, which forms the frontier of Switzer- 
 land and Italy, the Tambohorn fp. 363) is visible to the W. , and the Gal- 
 legione (10,289') to the S.E. On the S.W. side of the pass it is necessary 
 to slide down a short snow-slope in a sitting position ; then along the N. 
 side of the beautiful little Lajo di Einet, down by the 1. bank of the 
 Madesimo, afterwards across meadows, through the village of the same 
 name (4 hrs. from Caniciil) ; then on the r. bank of the Madesimo, reaching 
 the Spliigen route '].; M. below Pianazzo (p. 359j. 
 
 The Spliigen route winds upwards, passes the inconsiderable 
 ruins of the Biirenbury , and enters the *Roffla Rarine^ bearing 
 some resemblant'e to the Via Mala , a gorge 3 M. in length , in 
 which the Rhine forms a series of waterfalls. Near the entrance 
 the Aoerser-Rhein precipitates itself from the Ferrera-ThaL and 
 joins the (3573') Hinter-Rhein. A short distance up the valley 
 (steps ascend from the road, tlien a descent to the 1. ) the former 
 stream forms a picturesque cascade , the spray of which rises in 
 clouds to a considerable height. ( Route through the Ferrera \'alley 
 to .Stalla, see above.) 
 
 Towards the end of the gorge, the Einshorn, covered with snow 
 in the early part of summer becomes visible. An ancient bridge 
 here crosses the Rliine ; farther on, a rocky gateway, about IG yds. 
 in length (Sasa plana), is passed. The open Alpine landscape of 
 the Rheinwaidthal ( Val Rhein) is now disclosed ; to the r. the 
 village of Surers, or Sufers (^4672') ; opposite the traveller rise the 
 Pizzo Uccelto (^8910') and the Einshorn (9049'): to the 1. of Splii- 
 gen, near the Pizzo Uccello, the Tambohorn (10,748'); opposite, 
 towards the W., the Znpporthorn (9803') and other mountains, 
 see p. 363. 
 
 8</4 M. Spliigen (4757') C^Hotel Bodenhaus, R. 2'/.,, D. 3— 
 4 fr., diligence passengers breakfast here), Rom. Speluga (from 
 Speluja, without corn; or Specula, watch-tower), is the capital 
 (523 inhab.) of the Rheinwaidthal. the upper part of which valley 
 resembles that of Ursern. The village is enlivened by the trafttc 
 on the Spliigen and Bernardino routes on which it is situated. 
 It consists of half-a-dozen handsome houses and a number of 
 smaller ones, with a church. In autumn large herds of cattle 
 are constantly eui'ountered in this village , on their way to the 
 Italian markets. \t this elevation oats seldom attain maturity. 
 Numbers of Bergamasque shepherds (comp. p. 324) are also to 
 be found with their flocks on both slopes of the Spliigen. (Kx- 
 lursion to the Source nf the Hinter-Rhein, see p. 302.)
 
 358 
 
 89. From Spliigen to the Lake of Como. 
 
 39 M. DiJigeiice twice daily to Chiavenna (.9 fr. 40 c.) in 6 hrs., to 
 C'olico (12 fr. 30 c.) in 83J4 hrs., corresponding with the steamhoals to Como, 
 and to Lecco. in connection with the train? for the south. Tlie seats on 
 the r. alTord tlie best view. 
 
 The road divides near the village of Splugen (4757'). that in 
 a straight direction leads to the Bernardino fp. 362); that to the 
 1., -which crosses the Rhine (the old wooden bridge was destroyed 
 by the flood of 1868 . and is to be replaced by an iron bridge ), 
 winds upwards and traverses a gallery '280' long. Outside- 
 passengers must be careful to avoid the beams which support 
 the gallery. The barren Kalkberg rises above Spliigen in the rear. 
 The road then enters a bleak valley and ascends on the W. side 
 by numberless zigzags, passing the lonely Berghaus (6677'), to 
 the summit [6945') of the Spliigen Pass (Speluga, Colmo del 
 Orso) , 3803' below the precipitous Tambohorn , or Schneehorn, 
 (10,748', ascent 3 — 4 hrs., not unattended with danger: the 
 view extends N. to Swabia. S. to Milan, whence this mountain 
 is visible , and embraces a large portion of the mighty glacier- 
 world). The ice-mountain on the E. is the Surettahorn (9925'). 
 This narrow ridge forms the boundary between Switzerland and 
 Italy. An ancient tower stands on the summit. 
 
 Tlie Spliigen was one of the Alpine passes with which the Romans 
 were acquainted; till 1818 it was only a bridle-path. Between Xov. 27th 
 and Dec. 4th, 1800, General Macdonakl led his division, which was to cover 
 the flank of the Italian army commanded by Brune, over this pass du- 
 ring a severe snow-storm. Whole columns of troops were precipitated into 
 the abyss of the Cardinell (see below) by avalanches. The Austrian govern- 
 ment caused the present road to be constructed in 1819 — 21 , in order to 
 secure a passage to Lombardy in this direction also, after the completion 
 of the Bernardino route. 
 
 Beyond the summit the road passes the first Cantoniera (refuge), 
 and then reaches {^/^ M.. 8 M. from Spliigen) the Dogana (6246'), 
 the Italian custom-house, a group of houses with a poor inn. at 
 the upper end of a bleak valley surrounded by lofty mountains. 
 The snow here often reaches in winter to the windows of the 
 first-floor. Bells are rung in the four highest houses of refuge 
 during snow-storms, as a guide to travellers. 
 
 The old bridle-path turned to the r. near the second wooden 
 bridge, and traversed the Cardinell gorge direct to Isola. a route 
 much exposed to avalanches. The new road descends gradually 
 by numberless zigzags along the E. precipice, and is protecterl 
 against avalanches in many places by long galleries (the first 
 744' long, the second (i82'. the third 1640'). These are constructed 
 of solid masonry and coverei! with sloping roofs supported by 
 pillars, to enable the snow to slide off ; they are lighted by aper- 
 tures at the sides, resembling embrasures. 
 
 As the second gallery is quitted, a beautiful view is obtained 
 of the old road (destroyed by an inundation in 1834) , and the 
 village of Isola. The new road avoids the dangerous Lira gorge
 
 ■r'""'m^S^if^.i~~~^.: } ~-'-*.H^
 
 CHIAVENNA. ^9. Route. 359 
 
 between Isola anil (anipo Dolcino. IiniiKMliatfly boyond Pianazzo, 
 near the entrance to a sliort gallery, the considerable stream of 
 the Madesiino precipitates itself from a rock to a depth of 700' 
 into the valley below. This beautiful *\vaterfall is best surveyed 
 from a small projectinj: platform by the road. The conductor 
 sometimes detains the diligence for a short time to enable pas>- 
 engers to alight and view the cascade. \ Latin inscription on a 
 stone tablet in the rock records the date of the construction of 
 the route. (From Finnazzo to CaniciU over the Pa.*.*o di M<ide<^hno, 
 see p. 357.) 
 
 lo'/o ^I- Campo Dolcino (3553') consists of two large groups 
 of house?, the first of which contains the church, surrounded 
 by asli-trees. and the cemetery ('■Campo Santo'). In the second 
 group, 1/.2 M. farther, is tlie inn (Pasta). Beyond this point is 
 another Latin inscription on the rock, in honour of the Emperor 
 Francis, who constructed the route from ^Clarenna ad Jihenum' . 
 
 The Lira Valley is strewn with fragments of rock , but the 
 wildness of the scene is soniewliat modilied by the luxuriant foliage 
 of the chestnuts visible lower down, from which the slender white 
 campanile of the church of Madonna di Gallivayqio gracefully 
 rises. Near S. Giacomo there are whole forests of chestnuts, 
 which extend far up the steep mountain slopes. The vineyards 
 of Chiavenna are now sooji reached , and the rich luxuriance of 
 Italian vegetation unfolds itself to the view. 
 
 81/2 ^I- Chiavenna (1319'), the Clavenna of the Homan>, 
 afterwards the capital of the County of Claveu (*H6tel Conradi, 
 \{. and L. 21/.2. B. IVo- !>• ^- A. 3/^ fr. , adjoining the post- 
 office, carriages; Chiave d'Oro. The Chiavenna beer is consid- 
 ered the best in X. Italy), an ancient town with 3800 inhab., is 
 charmingly situated on the Maira, at the mouth of the Val Bre- 
 gaglia (p. 360). Opposite the post-office are the extensive ruins 
 of a castle . formerly the property of the De Salts family, and 
 frequently besieged in ancient times. Picturesque view from the 
 castle-garden, or ^paradiso' ( 'A) fr. gratuity), which extends along 
 an isolated rock, and is festooned with vines. 
 
 ■S. Lorenzo, the principal church, near the post-offi<'e. has an 
 ♦'legant slender clock-tower, or ca»/ipr/n/7e . which rises from an 
 otu'losuro -nrrounded by arcades . formerly the dtmpo S,mto or 
 burial-ground. Interior uninteresting. .Vdjacent are two Chnrnel- 
 h'nises , in which the skulls and bones are carefully arranged. 
 The Battisterio contains a very aiuMent font, decorated with reliefs. 
 
 The road to Colico at first traverses vineyards ; farther on. 
 the effects of the inundations of the .Maira, and its tributary the 
 Lira, which joins it below Chiavenna. become apparent. Almost 
 the entire valley, beins enclosed by lofty mountains, is exposed 
 to these inundations. Near 
 
 6 .VI. Riva the road reaches the Lnao di Rira. or di .Mezzola,
 
 360 Route 90. YAL BREGAOLIA. 
 
 so completely shut in by mountains, that, previously to the con- 
 struction of the road, the lake had to he crossed by boat. This 
 piece of water originally formed the N. bay of the Lake of Como, 
 but the deposits of the Adda have in the course of ages almost 
 entirely separated the two lakes , which are now connected only 
 by a narrow channel , recently rendered navigable. The road 
 skirts the E. bank of the lake, in some places supported by 
 embankments and masonry, in others passing through galleries, 
 and crosses the Adda. Before the junction of this road with that 
 of the Stelvio (p. 342), the ruins of the castle of Fuentes. 
 erected by the Spaniards in 1603, and destroyed by the French 
 in 1796, are seen on the r. It was formerly situated on an 
 island, and considered the key of the Valtellina. At 
 
 9 M. Colico (722') (ALbergo Piazza Garibaldi, on the lake: 
 Isola Bella, both in the Ital. style) the Lake of Como (p. 381) 
 is reached. The Swiss diligence runs as far as Lecco by the 
 road mentioned at p. 386. Steamers on the lake, see p. 381. 
 Messayerie (Impresa Fojanini) to Sondrio in 5 . Bormio in 14. 
 Tirano in 9 hrs.. see RK. 85, 86. 
 
 90. From Chiavenna to Samaden. Maloja. 
 
 Coinp. Maj^s, pj). 358, 320. 
 
 33'i2 M. Diligence once daily in S'J- hrs. (9 fr. GO c). In this di- 
 rection the diligences are nsually less crowded than on the retnrn-jonrney. 
 for which coiipe-places should lie engaged several days in advance. 
 
 The Val Bregaglia (PraegalUa of the Romans, so named from its p<j- 
 sition -in front of" their province of Cisalpine Gaul), Ger. Bevgelhv T/tal, 
 upens near Chiavenna, and extends upwards toward.? the E. as far as the 
 Jlaloja. This valley, in most parts narrow, is watered throughout its entire 
 length by the Maira or Mera. The lower part exhibits the luxuriance of 
 southern vegetation, the upper is Alpine in character. The route from 
 Chiavenna to the Swiss frontier, between masses of rock clothed with dense 
 chestnut woods, is strikingly beautiful, and rich in picturesque landscapes, 
 but its habitations, roads, and bridges are in a lamentable state of dilapida- 
 tion, the sole exception being the well constructed high-road itself. Xo sooner, 
 however, is the Swiss frontier crossed, than the contrast becomes most 
 marked; the roads are good and the houses well built. In the Bregaglia 
 alone are purely Italian communities to be found professing the Reformed 
 faith (at Poschiavo, p. 341, mixed). Many of the inhabitants (1638 in num- 
 ber), like those of the Engadine, seek their fortunes in foreign lands. 
 
 At Chiavenna the road diverges to the E.. and ascends the 
 course of the Maira. On the road. l'/2^1- from Chiavenna, is a 
 picturesque waterfall, the two arms of the stream forming a double 
 cascade; I'/o M. beyond are two small villages, designated as 
 ^Del comune di Piuro' . 
 
 Opposite, on the 1. bank of the Maira, formerly stood the wealthy and 
 nourishing town of Plurs (Piuro) with 2430 inhab. , and surrounded by 
 numerous country-residences. This town was entirely destroyed by a land- 
 slip in 1618. For several days previously to the catastrophe, masses of rock 
 had become detached from the slopes of Monte Conto, and numerous fissures 
 were observed to form and widen in the mountain. The inhabitants, 
 however, disregarded these admonitory phenomena, and were buried, together 
 with all their possessions; by -a mass of earth and rock 60' in thickness, all
 
 VICOSOPRANO. 90. lioute. 361 
 
 attempts to penetrate which proved fruitless. Every trace of the town has 
 <lisappeared, and the mass of debris is now ch^thed with a luxuriant forest 
 of chestnuts. The name of the town still survives in that of the little 
 village of Plu rs, where a traffic is carried on in articles manufactured of 
 a soft kind of stone (talc, lapis ollaris) , mentioned hy Pliny under the 
 name of ^Lapis C'omensis\ 
 
 The road remains on the r. bank of the Maira. and passes 
 throiigli Villa, or Villa di Chiavenna. Immediately below Casta- 
 segna, the stream forms the boundary between Italy and Switzer- 
 land. Castasegna ('236'2') (^Schuhmacher's restaurant). 6 M. from 
 Chiavenna, is on the Swiss frontier. The name of this closely- 
 built but pleasing village indicates that its principal resources are 
 derived from its chestnut-trees. The silkworm and white mul- 
 berry continue to flourish here, and as far N. as Bondo. 
 
 Agreeable walk through a beautiful chestnut forest, passing the water- 
 fall of the Acqua di >Stoll . tn Soglio (3566'( ( Giovaiioli), a village with 4(HJ 
 inhab., 1 hr. X.E. of Castasegna, the site of the deserted palaces and gar- 
 dens of the Salis-Soglio family. Here the pinus cemhva^ or 'Alpine cedar 
 (p. 326), is seen in strange ju.xtaposition with the chestnut. Fine view of 
 the Bondasca Glacier. 
 
 Spino, a group of houses on the road below Soglio. possesses 
 a brewery (good beer). Opposite, near Bondo, where the im- 
 petuous Bondasca falls into the Maira . stands a castle erected 
 by the Counts of Sails in 1770. For three entire months the 
 sun does not shine on Bondo. Rhododendrons and chestnuts 
 flourish here side by side. The latter do not occur beyond this 
 limit; the walnut ceases near Stampa. 
 
 The road crosses the Maira above its confluence with the 
 Bondasca. Promontogno (2(387') (Inn) (excursion of 3 hrs. to the 
 interesting Bondasca Glacier, of which a fine view is obtained by 
 ascending the slope to the 1. by the last chalet in front of the 
 moraine) , a village belonging to the commune of Bondo. Above 
 it tower the ruins of the considerable castle of Castelmur. Tw<» 
 lofty and massive walls descend into the valley. The road passes 
 through a rocky gallery (Porta), which, like the Platifer (p. 82) in 
 the Leventina, forms the boundary between two zones of vegeta- 
 tion. Near the tower of the castle, on the side of the mountain, 
 stands a handsome church, erected by Baron Castelmur iii 1850 
 on the ruins of an ancient edifice, formerly the principal church 
 in the valley. 
 
 The church of iS. Pietro is picturesquely situated on an 
 eminence; then Stampa (3379') and Borgonuoro (Bnrnov., 3471'). 
 which, with Coltura on the slope opposite, form the parish of 
 Stampa (373 inhab.). On the height near Coltura stands the 
 chateau of Baron Castelmur. 
 
 11 72 ^I- Vicosoprano (3566'), Rom. Vespran ('^Corona or 
 Posta), the capital of the valley, with 323 inhab., at the con- 
 fluence of the Maira and the Albigna . which forms a beautiful 
 cascade near its glacier. The formation of the motmtain ridses 
 is here very peculiar.
 
 362 Route UO. CASACCIA. 
 
 The narrow Albigna Valley may l>e ascended from Vicosoprano as 
 far as the Albiijna Glacier (GJiiacriaJo deW Albiffiia), an interesting excur- 
 sion of 4 hrs. — Those who are not liable to giddiness are recommended 
 to ascend (6 hrs.j the f'h Diian (10,253'). which commands a rich and 
 varied panorama. The forester Giov. Stavipa at Stampa and Giac . Prevosd 
 at Vicosoprano are recommended as guides. 
 
 The road soon after wind^; upward* ftlie old road, following 
 the telegr. posts, is shorter) to (41/2 M.) Casaccia (4790'), Rom. 
 Casfitsch (*Post; *Mich. Mayer, the lowest house on the 1.; 
 *Agostino Zaun; the two last without signs), the highest village 
 in the Val Bregaglia. (Bridle-path to Stalla on the Julier route 
 over the Septimer. see p. 324. ) Pietro Torriani is recommended 
 as a guide. 
 
 The road which crosses the Maloja (the W. slope of which is 
 remarkable for its luxuriant vegetation) passes the ruins of the 
 Gothic church of 5. Gaudenzio on the 1. . and ascends through 
 beautiful fir-woods by steep zigzags, reaching the summit of the 
 pass (5961') (p. 326). 41/2 M- from Casaccia. (From one of 
 the windings a path to the r. leads in a few min. to the beauti- 
 ful fall of the Ordleyna, the spray of which is visible from the 
 valley below. The path to it is easily missed unless the zigzags 
 of the road be followed; comp. p. 327.) On reaching the summit 
 of the Maloja. travellers should not fail to mount the rock oppo- 
 >ite the Maloja Inn. a few paces from the road, as it commands 
 a fine view of the valley ; the diligence halts here for a few 
 minutes, during which the ascent may easily be made. 
 
 From Maloja to Samaden. see p. 326. 
 
 91. From Spliigen to Bellinzona. Bernardino. 
 
 Comp Map. p. 35 S. 
 
 45'|:j 31. DiliKence in T^lz hrs., fare 14 fr. 30 c. Two-horse carr. 
 from Coire to Bellinzona 170. to Lugano 200 fr. 
 
 Spliigen (4757'). see p. 357. The road intersects the upper 
 Rheiniroldthal (Val Rhein). where many traces of the devasta- 
 tion caused by the flood of 1868 are still visible. l'/2 ^■• 
 }IedeU (5029')'; VU ^I-- pasture of Ebi (4960'). where tlie Lands- 
 gemeinde (comp. p. 75) used formerly to assemble biennially on 
 the first Sunday in .May; 13/^ M.. Xufmen. Ital. Xovenna (5170') 
 (Hossli). the church of which is roofed with copper. About 2 M. 
 farther. 
 
 63/g M. Hinterrhein (Oolo'i (Post), the highest village in 
 the valley. 
 
 Source of the Hinter-Rhein. The 'Spru»g'. or ' Ursprung' (source), is 
 4 hrs. to the S.W. (to tlie Zapportalp 3 hrs. , thence to the source 1 hr. 
 lough walking). The interest of this excursion (guide necessary) perhaps 
 hardly repays the fatigue. The path , which is injured annually by inun- 
 dations and landslips, for some distance traverses loose stones brought down 
 by the river, which is cro.ssed several times. The inhabitants of the valley 
 say that the most favourable time for this excursion is the end of .Tune, as 
 avalanches arc then no longer to bo apprehended, although the snow is still
 
 8. BERNARDINO. ff I. Route. 363 
 
 lying, on which it is k-fs fatiguing to walk Mian on the loose ftones. On 
 approaching the source from the last chalet occupied by the shepherds 
 (p. 324), a wild and barren rock is seen on the r. bank, at the hnse of 
 which the infant Rhine forms a small cascade. This bleak district is known 
 as the Ilolle ('hell). Beyond, rm the same side, is a rock partly covered 
 with earth, on which in August rhododendrons bloom luxuriantly ; this, by 
 way of antithesis, is termed the Paradie.< ('paradise'). This narrow valle> 
 is terminated by the Rheinwald or Zapport Olarifr. The Hinti-r-Rhein 
 issues from an aperture (7274'). in shape resembling a cow's moutli. Tlu- 
 stream, which from the first is of considerabh? volume, is soon atigmentcd 
 by numerous small tributaries issuing from crevices of the glacier. On 
 the 1. bank lies the sunny Zapporlalp (0417'), with its flocks of sheep and 
 goats. From this Alp. which faces the S., the Rheinwald Glacier may be 
 ascended, in order to f)l)tain a good view of the vast mountains which 
 enclose the Rheinwaldthal : the Marsrholhorn^ or Mosrhelhorn ( Piz Moesola. 
 0.^21'), the Rheimcaldhovu (11,148'), the Gilferhorn (11.132')_, etc. 
 
 The Bernardino Road crosses the first bridge (5301'), which 
 spans tlip Rhine with three arches, V2 ^^- heyond Ilinterrhein. 
 It then winds up the steep 8. slope in zigzags , comma ndins a 
 fine view of the valley of the Rhine. On reaching the ridge, it 
 leads through a narrow and desolate valley to the S. Bernardino 
 ((5991'). The Romans were acqtiainted with this pass, which, 
 until tlin beginning of the 15th cent., was known as the Vogel- 
 herg. At the period when St. Bernardino of Siena preached the 
 gospel in this district , a chapel was erected on the W. slope, 
 whence the pass derived its present name (not to >'' confounded 
 with the Great and Little St. Bernard, pp. 237. 231). Near the 
 (3/4 M.) small Tmcjo Moesola. where several specio< of rare and 
 beautiful .\lpine plants are met with, stands the large Cas<i di 
 Rifagio (inn). From the S. extremity of this lake, the Morsa 
 emerges , by which the road runs as far as its confluence with 
 the Ticino above Bellinzona. The river is first crossed by a 
 handsome bridge, named after King Victor Emntannel L, the prin- 
 cipal promoter of the construction of this route. Rofore reaching 
 the bridge the river forms a fine Waterfall. Tho Moschelhorn 
 (9521') is visible from the foot of the bridge, thro ij^h the arch 
 of TO' span. Farther on, the road is protected from avalanches 
 by a roof. The S. slope of the mountain is far more precipi- 
 tous than the N., but the windings of the road are so inir'^niously 
 contrived, that the drivers can trot their horses down the entire 
 descent. 
 
 lOVo M. S. Bernardino (533-i') (Hotel Brocco ; Hotel Ravizza, 
 pension 5 — 7 fv. : Hotel Motto, pension (1 fr.l, the highest village 
 of the Val Mesorco or Mesolrina , with a mineral spring . the 
 Aoqiui Buona . which attracts many invalids in summer. The 
 valley opens into the Riviera (p. 83) near Bellinzona. The lower 
 part of this valley contrasts strongly with the Rheinwaldthal. in 
 language, maimers . cultivation, and climate. Everything here is 
 Italian, and the inhabitants are exclusively Rom. Cath,. Cardinal 
 Borromeo (p. 37i1 havincr sneee^sfnUy crushed the first eornis of 
 the Reformation.
 
 364 Route 91. MESECCO. 
 
 13/4 M. Fall of the Moesa, I3/4 M. 8. Giacomo, i/._, M. Cebbia. 
 Ill order to see the fall to advantage , the traveller should take 
 the footpath between S. Bernardino and S. Giacomo, which runs 
 tirst on the 1., then on the r. bank of the stream. The road on 
 the 1. bank describes numberless zigzags, and discloses exquisite 
 landscapes during the descent. From the bridge of S. Giacomo 
 (3757') a beautiful distant view of the valley is obtained , with 
 the extensive ruins of the Castle of Mesocco and its four towers, 
 destroyed by the inhabitants of the Grisons in 15'26. This bridge 
 is situated below the (I'/i ^'^■) village of 
 
 9 M. Mesocco (2592'3, or Cremeo (^Toscani , adjoining the 
 post-office; Hotel Desteffanis). Nut-trees, chestnuts, vines, and 
 rich crops of maize indicate the Italian climate. The situation 
 of Mesocco is charming. The valley is enclosed by mountain- 
 slopes, from which numerous brooklets are precipitated over the 
 rocks; between Mesocco and Lostallo there are 8 considerable 
 waterfalls. 
 
 Beyond (l'/., M.) Soazza (2005') the bottom of the valley is 
 attained, and the road becomes level. On the other side of the 
 Moesa, traces of the inundation of 1868 fcomp. Introd. XV) 
 are still observable. 
 
 Near the second bridge below Soazza , the brook Buffalora 
 forms a beautiful cascade near the road. Near (2^/4 M.) Cabbiolo 
 (1476'), a waterfall. 1 M. Lostallo \ I '^i^') (Post) with extensive 
 vineyards. .\t 
 
 93/4 M. Cama (1260'), 21/2 M. from Lostallo, the first figs 
 and mulberries are seen, near the Capuchin convent. ^/^ M., 
 Leggia (1125'); l'^ M., Grono (1000'), capital of the valley, 
 with the massive tower of Florentlna, near which is a chapel 
 adorned with ancient frescoes. The vines are here trained on 
 trellis-work. 1^/4 M. Roveredo (974') (Posta; Croce), capital 
 (1171 inhab.) of the lower Val Mesocco. with the ruined castle 
 of the once powerful Trivulzio family. 
 
 S. Vittore (882') , the last village of the Grisons ; Lumino, 
 first village of Ticino. Before the Moesa bridge is crossed , the 
 Bernardino route joins the St. Gotthard Koad (p. 83). Below the 
 conlluence of the Moesa and the Tessin (Ticino) stands Arbedo 
 (797') , a village connected with a sad event in the history of 
 Switzerland. On July 30th, 1422, a battle took place here 
 between 3000 Swiss and 24,000 Milanese, in which 2000 of the 
 former fell. They were interred beneath several mounds of earth, 
 termed Chiesa Rossa from their red colour, near the church of St. 
 Paul. 
 
 93/4 M. Bellinzona, see p. 83. 
 
 Travellers may proceed from Bellinzona to Milan (p. 3HS) via Lagu 
 Maggiore (R. 95) or Lugano (next route): comp. Baedeker"!! X Italii.
 
 365 
 
 92. From Bellinzona to Como (and Milan). Lake 
 of Lugano. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. 366. 
 
 37'|j M. Diligence twice daily in 10 hrs. througli Cfiino (<> the Ca- 
 inerlata station. The passage «)f Monte Cenere and the journey from Lugano 
 to f'apolago may be agreeably performed on foot. 
 
 Tlie road leaves the valley of the Ticino near Cadenazzo 
 (751'. p. 369), 33/4 M. from Bellinzona (p. 83). anrl winds up- 
 wards tlirough a beautiful chestnut wood . along the slope of 
 Monte Cenere (4'/.2M.), commanding a variety of tine *views of 
 Hoiiinzoiia and the valley of the Ticino. the influx of the latter 
 into tlie Lago Maggiore . the N. part of that lake, and Locarno. 
 On the summit of the pass (1814'J stands a guard-house (Corpo 
 di (ruardia) , and near it the Osterla Nuora. The road then 
 descends between the mountains, in a fertile valley, and reaches 
 
 9^/4 M. Bironico (1483'), where the Vedeggio (a stream 
 which rises at the foot of Monte Camoghe, a few miles to the E., 
 usually dry in summer) is reached. 
 
 The Monte Camoghe (7306') is usually ascended (6—7 hrs.) from Bel- 
 linzona or Bironico. Magnificent view of tiie broad plain of Lombardy, and 
 the entire Alpine chain from Piedmont to the Valtellina. Travellers arc 
 not recommended to spend the night in the chalets on the summit. Those 
 who are disinclined for this fatiguing walk , may enjoy a survey of the 
 Italian lakes by ascending from the Osteria Nuova (in 2 hrs.) to the 
 stuninit of Monte Cenere (see above). 
 
 Beyond Bironico the scenery is picturesque, and the soil rich 
 and fertile ; the double-peaked Camoghe is kept constantly on 
 the 1.; 33/4 M., Taverne Superiori; 1/4 ^^5 Taverne Inferiori, 
 good inn; 27-2 ^I-i Cadempino ; 1 M., Vezia (view from the 
 church of Madonna di 8. Martino), I72 M- Lugano. 
 
 Towards Lugano, during the descent, the beauty and fertility 
 of the country increase. The hill and shrine of Monte S. Sal- 
 vadore first become visible : then tlie lake , in the clear green 
 water of which the beautiful mountains of the neighbourhood are 
 reflected. The road passes a number of villas, and then reaches 
 the town with its flat-roofed houses; in the foreground extensive 
 Barracks. 
 
 93/4 M. Lugano (932'), Monte S. Salmdore. etc., see R. 93. 
 
 The road from Lugano to Como skirts the base of Monte 
 S. Salradore (p. 368) and the lake. After passing {2'/4 M.) 
 S. Martino. the calcareous rock is replaced by dolomite; this 
 becomes gradually purer and whiter, until near (2'/4 yi.} Melide 
 it changes into dark porphyry. An unsightly stone Dam. '/.j M. 
 long. 24 ft. wide . crosses the lake , and connects Melide with 
 Bissone. It was completed in 1846 at a cost of 700.000 fr. ; its 
 two extremities are arched. The road now skirts the K. bank 
 of the lake, commanding beautiful \if\vs. and passes through 
 Maroggia, Melano, and (I72 ^^ ) Capolago (Inn, 011 the lake).
 
 366 Route 92. MONTE GENEROSO. 
 
 where it quits the lake. Omnibus from Capolago to Como 2 fr. 
 10 c, Camerlata 2 fr. 40 c, Mendrisio I fr. : tickets issued on 
 board the steamboat. 
 
 11 M. Mendrisio (^1191 'J lAnytlo: new hotel in course of 
 (onstructionj. o M. from Capolago, a small town with 2337 inhab., 
 in a luxuriantly fertile district, with large wine-cellars and 
 handsome hospital. 
 
 Monte Generoso (5561') (Jf. Gionnero., ov M. Calvagc/ione), the Rigi of 
 Italian Switzerland, is ascended (guide unnecessary) from Mendrisio (where 
 hui-ses may be hired) in 4 — hrs. A good bridle-path ascends by the wine- 
 cellars ut' HaloviitQ in zigzags (beyond Salorino pedestrians follow the telegraph- 
 wiresj to a shaded dale, at the upper extremity of which a spring and a 
 chalet (refreshments) are situated. Farther on, the path passes between 
 beautiful chestnuts, then through beech-forest to the (lij4 hr.) excellent 
 new Hdtel du Ghierose (R. 2, A. i|2, L. ij^, D. 4 fr. ^ post and telegr. 
 offices), recommended for a prolonged stay, 'j^ hr. farther, beyond the 
 ridge, are the chalets of Cassina. where a fine breed of cattle is reared. 
 From the hotel to the hut on the summit a steep ascent of Pji hr., past 
 .several peaks of the G-eneroso. The '"view embraces the lakes oi Lugano. 
 Como, Varese, and Lago 3Iaggiore, the populous plains of Loinbardy, and the 
 entire Alpine chain to the X. At the foot of the mountain, tigs and 
 grapes thrive luxuriantly; higher up are dense forests of chestnuts and 
 beeches, and beyond these, broom and scanty herbage. This mountain 
 abounds in the rarest plants. 
 
 Monte Generoso may also be ascended from Rovio in 4 — 5 hrs., a fatiguing 
 walk. 
 
 From Mendrisio to Balerna (Inn) I'o M. , then (^IVi ^I-J 
 Chiasso (820') (Angelo. or FostuJ, the last Swiss village. Ponte 
 (hiasso, on the opposite side, belongs to Lombardy, and is the 
 seat of the Ital. custom-house. The road crosses the Monte 
 Olimpino; during the descent the view is very tine, embracing 
 the Lake of Como, the ^ ilia Raimondi (^p. 386j, and Corao, above 
 which rise the Corni di Canzo (p. 387) on the I., and the 
 Castello Baradello (see below) on the r. The road traverses 
 Horyo Vico, the W. suburb of Como. 
 
 Como, see p. 386. The station of the Milan railway is at 
 
 7 M. Camerlata, 2 M. distant from Como (omnibus from the 
 steamboat to the station in 35 , in the opposite direction in 
 20 min., fare '/o fr.J. Opposite the station is the Caffe delta 
 Stazione ed Athergo. High above Camerlata rises the lofty and 
 venerable tower of the Caattllo Baradello, where Frederick Barba- 
 rossa occasionally resided. Railway to Milan in U/2 hr.. see K. 99. 
 
 93. Lugano and its Environs. 
 
 Hotels. 'Hotel du Pare, in the former monastery of <S'. Maria degli 
 Anyioli, on the S. side of town, K. 2—3, L. ^(4: H- l')2, D. 4 fr. . pension 
 t> — 9 fr., in winter 5V2 — 6 ; Hotel Washington, in the old government 
 buildings, R. 2, D. 4, L. and A. 1 fr., pension 5 — 8 fr, : Grand Hotel 
 Suisse; both the latter belong to the same proprietor. — Hotel d e 1 a 
 Couronne in the town, tolerable, but without view. Bellevue, new. 
 — Post and telegraph oflice in the Gov. Buildings (p. 367). 
 
 Diligence to Luiiio (p. 371j once daily in 2'j2 hrs. , coupe 3 fr. 60 c, 
 interieur 2 fr. 9(1 c. ; steamboat-tickets for Lago Maggiore are also issued
 
 IL ^^. » MILAMO V ^3:/<ZW
 
 LL'GANO. 93. Route. 367 
 
 at the office (twu-horso can-. 20, one-horse 12 fr.. iml. feej ; to Liueviif 
 via Bellinzona and the Si. Gotthard twice daily; \n Coire over the Ber- 
 nardino once daily ; to Caini-ilata twice daily. 
 
 Steamboat to' Capolayo (p. 365) I fr. or 60 c. ; to Porlezza 2'|2 or 1 fr. 
 
 Boats t(i Porlezza (p. 3H0) with one rower 7 fr. . two 12 fr. , thre*- 
 161,2 fi'- ; t" (apolago G. 10. or 12 fr., inch fee. 
 
 English Church Service at the Hotel du Pare during the sea.son. 
 
 luugano (9;V2'). the most considerable town of the Canton 
 of Ticino, with (50'24 inhab. (124 Prot.j. is charmingly .■situated on 
 the lake of the same name, and enjoys a southern climate (th'- 
 aloe blooms here in the open air), without the oppre-sive heai 
 of the Italian towns. It is a most agreeable place for a lengtliened 
 sojourn; the environs display all the charms of Italian mountain- 
 scenery; numerous white villas and country-seats are scattere<l 
 along the margin of the lake; the lower hills are covered with 
 vineyards and gardens, contrasting beautifully with the dark foliag*- 
 of the chestnuts and walnuts in the background. To the 8.. 
 immediately above the town , rises Monte S. SaLvadore. wooded 
 to its summit (p. 308); among the mountains towards the N. th- 
 double peak of Monte Camoyht (^p. 365) is conspicuous. 
 
 The interior of the town, with its arcades, workshops in th'' 
 open air, and granite-paved streets, also presents a thoroughh 
 Italian appearance. On market-day (Tuesday) the Italian costum.' 
 is to be seen here in every variety. 
 
 The monasterie> here were formerly very numerotis. but wer.- 
 suppressed between 1848 and 1853, with the exception of two. 
 The most important was that of iS. Maria degli Angioli, now the 
 Hotel du Pare. The adjacent church contains three Frescoes by 
 Luini, the *Cruciflxion , one of his tinest works . the Last Sup- 
 per (on the 1. wall) in three sections, formerly preserved at the 
 Ivvceum, and a Madonna (_lst chap, on the r.). 
 
 S. Lorenzo, ihn principal church, on an eminence (tine view 
 from the terrace), said to have been designed by Bramante. ha- 
 a tastefully adorned marble fai^ade. 
 
 Adjoining the Theatre are the handsome Government Build- 
 ings, with the inscription: In iegibus libertas ; quid tege.<* .■*ir,f 
 moribus et fides sine operibus' . 
 
 In a small temple at the Villa Tanzina. ','4 M. S. of the 
 Hotel du Pare, is a bust of Washington: ^magnum saculorum 
 decus' . The proprietor of the villa, in which apartments are let. 
 is an Italian who amassed a fortune in America. — The gardeu 
 of the neighbouring Villa Vasalli contains some tine cypresse-. 
 — Superb view from the tower in the garden of the Villa En- 
 derlin, to which access is permitted by the proprietor. 
 
 The handsome *Park of M. Ciani (d. 18()7). extending aloiiii 
 
 the N. bay of the lake (strangers readily admitted, gardener 1 fr. ). 
 
 lontains a marble Monument erected by the late proprietor to 
 
 the memory of his parents, and executed by Vinr. Vela in 185(J. 
 
 Opposite the Hotel du Pare, on the new and broad quay, is
 
 368 Route 93. MONTE BRE. 
 
 a Fountain with a Statue of William Tell, 8 ft. in height, in 
 white sandstone, designed by Vine. Vela., and erected at the cost 
 of M. Ciani. 
 
 Tn front of the church of 5. Pietro near Pambio . IV2 M- 
 8.W., stands a Statue (also by Vine. Tela) of Captain Carloni, 
 who was killed in 1848 near Somma Campagna , fighting as a 
 vohinteer ^per la liberta e I'indipendenza d' Italia'. — 1 M. to 
 the W. of Pambio, in the churchyard of S. Abbondio. near the 
 ( '/4 M- ^^'J church of that name, is a white marble * Monument 
 of the Torriani family, also by Vela, an admirably executed work. 
 
 Delightful excursion to Monte S. Salvadore ('2982') , ascent 2 hrs., 
 rle.?eent l^o hr., guide (4 fr.) supertluou.s, as the path cannot he mistaken; 
 horse 9 fr., mule 8 fr., incl. fee. About '2 M. from the Hotel du Pare, 
 between a detached house and the wall of a garden , a good paved path 
 diverges to the r. from the road to Como ; 2 min. farther, where the road 
 divides, not to the r. , but straight on to the houses: between these the 
 road ascends, past the handsome and conspicuous (25 min.) Villa Marchino 
 to (5 min.) the village of Pazzallo ., from which Monte Kosa is visible 
 thrruigh a mountain gorge. Here the path diverges to the 1. from the broad 
 road, through the gateway of the fourth house, and ascends to the 1. by a 
 stony, but easy ascent in li|2 hr. to the Pilgrimage Chapel on the 
 summit (refreshments at a house near the top). The 'view embraces all 
 the arms of the Lake of Lugano, the mountains and their wooded slopes, 
 especially those above Lugano, sprinkled with numerous villas. To the E. 
 above Porlezza is Monte Legnone (p. 382), to the 1. of which, in the 
 extreme distance, are the snow-peaks of the Bernina ; N. above Lugano the 
 double peak of Monte Camoghe (p. 365) , 1. of this the distant mountains 
 of the St. Gotthard ; W. the chain of Monte Rosa, with the Matterhorn and 
 nther Alps of the Valais to the r. This view is seen to the greatest ad- 
 vantage in the morning, when Monte Rosa gleams in the sunshine. In 
 descending, the route through Carona (1959') and Melide (p. 365) (somewhat 
 longer) may be chosen. 
 
 The ascent (2i|2 hrs.) of Monte Bre (3100'). N.E. of Lugano, is another 
 easy excursion , scarcely less interesting than the former (a boy should be 
 engaged as a guide at Bre). A i-oad runs inland towards several mills at the 
 foot of the mountain. Thence a broad and well-constructed path winds up- 
 wards to the r. to the small village of Desago, passing a few groups of houses. 
 Another route to Desago from the town skirts the lake to the foot of the 
 mountain , and then ascends from hamlet to hamlet through gardens, etc. 
 Above Desago the path divides ; both routes are broad, and well-constructed, 
 leading round the mountain, to the village of Bit on its farther side 
 (Inn, bread and wine only). The route to the r., above the lake, is of 
 surpassing beauty; that to 'the 1. also commands a fme inland view. Xear 
 the church of Bre a narrow forest-path ascends to the summit of the 
 mountain. This path also divides ; the branch to the r. traverses the 
 highest ridge of the hill, that to the 1. leads to a spur of the mountain in 
 the direction of Lugano. The summit may be attained by either. The 
 vi^ of the several arms of the Lake nf Lugano, especially in the direction 
 of Porlezza, and the surrounding mountains, is remarkably line. Lugano 
 itself is not visible from the summit, but from the above-mentioned spur 
 a good view of it may be obtained. All these paths are easily traced. 
 From Lugano to Bre about lija hr. ; from Bre to the summit by the longest 
 way about 1 hr. 
 
 Monte Caprino, opposite Lugano, on the E. bank of the lake, is much fre- 
 qiionted on holidays by the townspeople, many of whom possess wine-cellars 
 {lantint) in the numerous cool grottoes, by wliich the side of the mountain 
 is honey-combed. These receptacles are guarded by numerous huts, which 
 from a distance prfesent the appearance of a village. Wine of good quality 
 and icy coolness is sold at some of these cellars ('Asti' recommended).
 
 360 
 
 94. From Bellinzona to Magadino and Locarno. 
 
 ('ontp. Ma J), ]>. .yj'j. 
 Diligence to Magartino twice daily in 13j4 hr. (2 fr.), in corresprmdencc 
 with the steamboats on Lago Maggiore •, to Locarno twice daily in 2'j4 hrs. 
 (2 fr.). 
 
 The lower Valley of the Tirino is a broad , grassy , • and 
 partially wooded plain, to which the mountains, although distant, 
 form an imposing background. The soil is well cultivated . and 
 the hills are covered with vines; but the low ground is marshy 
 and unhealthy. 
 
 At Cadenazzo (751'} the road to Magadino diverges to the 
 W. from that leading S. to Lugano over Monte Cenere (p. 365). 
 9V2 M- Magadino (Bellevue, at the steamboat pier), consist- 
 ing of two villages, the Upper and Lower, is situated on the 
 N. bank of Lago Maggiore, at the mouth of the Ticino , in a 
 marshy district. Steamboats on the Lago Maggiore, see p. 370. 
 The road from Bellinzona to Locarno crosses the Ticino by 
 a long bridge (p. 84). It passes Monte Carasso, which affords a 
 good survey of the mountains on the 1. bank, of Monte Cenere, 
 the ancient town of Bellinzona , and the snowy heights of the 
 Alps. Then (3 >L ) a bridge over the Sementina . issuing from 
 a gorge. Near the Bridge of Verzasca , where the road ap- 
 proaches the lake (3 M. from Locarno), the scenery becomes 
 very attractive. 
 
 1*2 M. Locarno (682'j {*Corona^ on the lake; *Alberyo 
 Svizzero , in the town, clean), one of the three capitals ('2GH7 
 inhab.) of the Canton of Ticino, and a town of thoroughly 
 Italian character, although politically Swiss, lies on the W. bank 
 of Lago Maggiore , at the mouth of the Maggia. Citron and 
 orange trees, the vine hanging in festoons from the plane-tree, 
 elms and poplars, the graceful campanili , the pretty chapels 
 on the hills, and the azure lake, all tell of the land of which 
 it is no exaggeration to say in the poet's words : 
 •Thy very weeds are heautil'ul. thy waste 
 ^lore rich than other climes" fertility'. 
 In the 14th cent. Locarno numbered 5000 inhab.. and was a 
 very prosperous town. In 1553, a decree of the intolerant Kom. 
 Cath. inhabitants banished those of their fellow-citizens who had 
 espoused the Reformed faitli. A number of the wealthiest of the 
 latter -.'paired to Ziirich . where they established the silk-manu- 
 factorios which llourish to this day. .Vmongst the emigrants 
 were the influential familie-; of the Orelli, Muralto, etc. 
 
 The Collegiate Churcli contains a few good pictures. The 
 handsome Government Building:* are situated in a large 'piazza' 
 and public garden. The pilgrimage church of *Madonna del 
 Sas.'^o { llOS'), on a wooded eminence above the town, commands 
 a remarkably tine view. 
 
 B.i;oi::ivKi{. Switzerland. j(li Kdiliun. '24
 
 370 Route 96. LAGO MAGGIORE. 
 
 The much frequented market at Locarno, held every alternate 
 Thursday , affords the visitor an opportunity of observing the 
 variety of costumes of the peasants of Ticino and the neighbour- 
 ing Italian districts. On Sept. 8th, the Nativity of .St. Mary, 
 every one appears in holiday attire. 
 
 F r u in L o e a r n o to D o mo d " s s o 1 a (12' -^ lir.s.) an interesting, Inif 
 fatiguing route leads through the valleys of Centovalli and Vigezza: (GM.) 
 lutragna (1299') (Bustalli's Inn), where the carriage-road terminates ; (9 31.) 
 Borgiione (2316') : (S'l.. hrs.) Malesco (Leone dUro), where the road again be- 
 comes practicable for carriages; ii.^l-> M.) <S'. Maria J/ar/jr/ore ('Leone d'Onn 
 .Stella, Croce di Malta), the most considerable place on the route, lO'Ja M. 
 from Domo d Ossola (p. 2(il). 
 
 From Locarno to Airolo. The carriage-road ascends (X.W.) the 
 Val Maggia., following the course of the stream, which abounds in cascades ; 
 it reaches first (8 M.) Cevio (1381') (Inn, moderate); next Bignasco (1424') 
 ( Posta), and then Peccia (274(j'), where the carriage-road ceases, and (4 hrs.) 
 Fiisio (Inn). Airolo (p. 81), at the S. base of the St. Gotthard, is 7 hrs. 
 distant ; route ea,sy. The more interesting of the two paths leading to it 
 is from Fusio over the Alp Campolungo (highest point 7025). passing the 
 little Lago Tremorgio ((JCtR)'). to Dazio Grande ( p. 82 ). From Locarno to 
 Bignasco diligence daily in 6^\-> hrs. (2 fr. 90 c). 
 
 From Cevio to the \' a 1 P'orinazza, see p. 14i. 
 
 95. Lago Maggiore. The Borromean Islands. 
 
 Coinp. Map, p. ;JGG. 
 
 Steamboats ply on the lake 8 times daily during the summer: from 
 Magadino to Aroua in o'ja hrs., from Luino to Isola Bella in 2>j4 hrs., from 
 Isola Bella to .Vrona in l'|4 hr. ; fares from Magadino to .Vroua 4 fr. SO c. 
 or 2 fr. (Joc. from Luino to Isola Bella I fr. 8o or 1 fr. 15 c. from Isola 
 Bella to Arona I fr. 70 or 95 c, landing and embarking included. The 
 steamboats are the best and cheapest conveyance to Isola Bella, especially 
 for a single traveller (from Pallauza CO, from Stresa 40 c.) :, and as they 
 touch at the island 4— o times daily, frequent opportunities are alforded for 
 the excursion. Stations (those with which the steamers do not comnmnicate 
 regularly are printed in /^rt//<-.<, those with piers are mentioned in wider 
 printing; the communication with the others is by small boat; for parti- 
 culars see the ^ Iloraire jwur la Narigalion a Vapeiir dit Lac Majeiir): 
 Magadino, Locarno, A.tcona, Brissago, Cannobbio, Maccagno, Luiuo. 
 Cannero, Oggebbio, (r/iijfa, Forto Val Travaglia, LavenOy Intra, P al- 
 ia nz a, Snna, Fariolo, Baveno, Isola Bella, Stresa, Belgirate, 
 Lesa, Meina. Angera, Arona. — On board the boats from Arona to 
 Magadino, agents of the inn-keeper at Magadino offer to provide pass- 
 engers with carriages for the passage of the St. Gotthard ; see p. G7, 
 private posting. 
 
 Boats. Travellers coming from the Simplon usually take a boat at 
 Baveno ( p. 373) to visit the Borr(imean Islands. The charge for an ex- 
 cursion not exceeding 2 hi-s. is fixed for each rower at '2^\-z fr. ; for 1—3 pers. 
 2 rowers, for 4 — G pers. 3, more than G pers. 4 rowers, so that the half- 
 hour's passage to the Iso a Bella is somewhat expensive. Half-way lietween 
 Stresa and Baveno, opposite the island, there is a ferry where 1—2 fr. 
 is exacted for a pa.?sage of scarcely 10 min. ; the other l)oatmen demand 
 6 fr. The passage from Stresa for 1 — 2 pers. costs 2 fr., for 3 or more pers. 
 with 2 rowers 4 fr., according to tarilf. For the return from the island 
 to the mainland, to Baveno, Stresa, etc., the boatmen demand 5 fr. , but 
 they reduce their terms as the time for the departure of the steamboat 
 approaches ( see aliove). From Isida Bella to Isola Madre and back, incl. 
 stay, 3 fr. with two rowers. Travellers should, if possilile, avoid making 
 their liargain through the medium of a waiter or commissionaire, whose 
 iuteivention t^nds greatly to increase the price.
 
 LUINO. 9r>. Routt. 371 
 
 Railway lioiu Arona to Milan, Genoa. Turin, see Baedeker. t 
 -V. /lull/, llaihvay-tickets may V»o procured on boa id tlic steaiuboats, on 
 the arrival of which tlie trains leave Anuia. 
 
 Diligence from Arona twice daily in G lirs. to Do mo d'Ossola 
 (p. 26iji in correspondence with the diligence over the Simplon (II. 03). — 
 From Luino Swiss diligence daily in 2^|4 Ins. to I- u fi a n o . see p. 37y. - 
 From Magadino (in l^jihr.) and Locarno (in 2'|4 hrs.j Swiss diligence 
 twice daily to Bellinzona (see p. 309), thence in summer twice daily 
 over the St. Gotthard to Lucerne in 18 hrs. (11. "23), and once daily over 
 the Bernardino to Coire in IT hrs. (Kll. 91, S>S). 
 
 Lago Maggiore (^(546', greatest depth '2841 'J. tlie Larus Ver- 
 banus of tilt.' lioiiians. is 37 M. in length, and averages 4'/^ M. in 
 width. Tiie canton of Ticino possesses only tlie N. bank ior an 
 extent of i) M. ; this portion of the lake is also called the J.akc 
 of Locarno. The W. bank beyond the brook Vatmarn, and tlie 
 Iv bank from Zenna belong to Italy. Its principal tributaries 
 are on the N. the Teasin {Ticino)., on the W. the V'o.svt. on the 
 K. the 'J're.sa . flowing from the Lake of Ltigano. I'he river 
 which enierges from the 8. extremity of the lake retains the 
 name of Ticino. The .N . banks are bounded by lofty mountains, 
 for the most part wooded, whilst the K. shore towards the lower 
 extremity slopes gradually away to the level of the plains of Lom- 
 bardy. The W. bank att'ords a succession of charming landscapes. 
 The water is of a green colour in its N. arm, and deep blui- 
 towards the S. 
 
 The Steamboat leaves Magadino, tlie most N. harbour (p.3()U), 
 and steers ttrst N.W. to 
 
 Locarno (p. 3(59). It now follows the W. bank, passes Asconu 
 with its castle and seminary, Ronco. and Brissuyo ("•'Albergo Antico). 
 a delightful spot, with picturesque white houses conspicuous from 
 a great distance, and an avenue of cypresses leading to the church. 
 The slopes above the village are covered with tig-trees, olives, 
 and pomegranates: even the myrtle flourishes in the open air. 
 .'>^. Ayata and Cauobbio (^Serpente) are the first Italian villages. 
 The latter, one of the oldest and most prosperous on the lake. 
 is situated on a promontory at the entrance of the Val Cannbbino, 
 and enclosed by richly-wooded mountains. Near it is the new 
 Hydropathic P2stab. of La Salute (^pension 8—10 fr."); omnibus 
 at the pier. 
 
 The boat now steers for the E. bank and touches at the 
 village of Maccagno, which consists of two parts, the Superiore, 
 and Inferiore. Then Luino C^Hotel SimpUm. fine view; Posta). 
 with the chateau of iiriceili surrounded by pines, the station for 
 Lugano (p. 360), frequently selected by strangers as a summer abode 
 on account of its beautiful situation and environs. About ',.j M. to 
 th<* S., at the mouth of the Margorabbia, is situated Gerniignaga, 
 with the extensive silk-spinning (^filanda) and winding (filatoja) 
 factories of Messrs. Cesare Kozotti and Co. of Milan (^whose 
 written permission must be procured by int'Miding visitors). On 
 
 •24*
 
 372 Route 95. PALLANZA. Lago 
 
 the W. bank rise two grotesque-looking castles (Castelli di Can- 
 nero) , half in ruins, the property of Count Borromeo. In the 
 15th cent, they harboured the five brothers Mazzarda . notorious 
 brigands , the terror of the district. Cannero is beautifully 
 situated in the midst of vineyards and olive-groves, which extend 
 far up the slopes of the mountain. The W. bank is clothed 
 with the richest vegetation, and studded with innumerable white 
 houses and a succession of picturesque villages. 
 
 The small villages of Oggebbio on the AV. bank, and Porto 
 Valtravaglia^ as well as the more important Laveno (*Posta; Mora; 
 Stella) on the E., are stations where the steamers do not always 
 stop. The last named, beautifully situated in a bay at the mouth 
 of the Tresa, was formerly a harbour for the Austrian gunboats, 
 and strongly fortified. The most beautiful mountain on the entire 
 lake is II Sasso del Ferro (^3556') , which rises behind Laveno, 
 and commands a magnificent view of the lake and the snow- 
 peaks of the Monte Rosa chain. — Omnibus daily by Varese to 
 Como^ see p. 387. 
 
 As the boat approaches Intra , a rotunda with a statue , be- 
 longing to the Villa Prina. becomes visible. The valley, which 
 here opens to the W.. suddenly discloses a strikingly picturesque 
 view of the N. neighbours of Monte Rosa: the Cima di Jazi, the 
 8trahlhorn, and the Mischabel with its three peaks. They are 
 lost to view as the steamboat turns the point between Intra 
 and Pallanza, but soon re-appear, and remain visible until Isola 
 Bella is reached. From the island itself they are hidden by the 
 mountains of the valley of the Tosa. 
 
 Intra (Vitello d'Oro), a flourishing town where most of the 
 manufactories have been established by Swiss, is situated on an 
 alluvial soil , between the mouths of two mountain streams, 
 the <S. Giovanni and S. Bernardino. — Omnibus daily between 
 Intra. Pallanza, Gravellona, Omegna. and Orta; comp. pp. 261. 
 376. 
 
 On the promontory of i?. Remigio. which here projects into 
 the lake, stands a church, on the site of an ancient Roman 
 temple of Venus. This is the widest part of the lake. The 
 little Isola S. Giovanni, with its chapel, house, and gardens, is 
 one of the Borromean Islands. 
 
 Fallanza (Grand Hotel Pallanza, on the quay, also diligence- 
 oFfice, heautifully situated; Post a; Italia. — Boat with two rowers to 
 the islands and back X fr. , a trip of 3 hrs. ; to Baveno 3 Ir. — Diligence 
 to Domo d'Ossola in 5 hrs., on the arrival of the steamboat from JIagadino. 
 Omnibus to Orta, see above), the seat of the authorities of the pro- 
 vince, is a thriving little town (2950 inhab."), most delightfully 
 situated opposite the Borromean Islands. Boat with two rowers 
 to the islands and back 4 fr., an excursion of 3 hrs. : to Baveno 
 8 fr. Diligence to Domo dOssola in 5 hrs., on the arrival of the 
 boat from Magadino. Omnibus to Orta, see above.
 
 Maggiore. ISOLA liKLLA. 95. Rnute. 373 
 
 Tlie Like here lonns an cvteiijive bay, I'/o M. long and 2 M. 
 wide, niiming in a N.W. direction, at the N. extremity of which 
 is the influx, of the impetuous Tosa (Toce). On tlie N.E. 
 bank lies Sunn, on the .S.W. Fariolo (Leone d'Oro). where the 
 Siniplon road leaves the lake (corap. p. 201 ); the steamboat does 
 not always touch at these two stations. Then Baveno (*Beauri- 
 rage ; *IieUevue) , a small town with I8n0 inhab. , the usual 
 starting-point of travellers from the Simplon for a visit to the 
 
 ^•Borromean Islands. The steamers touch at the Isold Bella, 
 tilt* most S. (if tlit'se. wliich, together with the Isola Mddre. be- 
 iiiMgs to the liorronieo family. Between these two is situated the 
 /so/a del Fescatori , or Superiore , the property of the fishermen 
 who inhabit it. The fourth island to the N. is the IsrAci S. 
 (riordnni, already mentioned. 
 
 Count Vitaleo Borromeo (d. 161)0) erected a chateati on *Isola 
 Bella, and converted the barren rock into beautiful gardens, 
 rising on 10 terraces 100' above the lake , and containing the 
 most luxuriant products of the soiith : lemon-trees, cedars, mag- 
 nolias, cypresses, orange-trees, laurels, magniflcent oleanders, etc. 
 (evening light most favourable for the view). Grottoes of shells, 
 fountains (dry), mosaics, statues, etc. meet the eye in profusion, 
 but in somewhat questionable taste. 
 
 The Chateau , the size of which is quite disproportionate to 
 the extent of the island , is richly decorated . and contains a 
 Collection of Pictures more numer(nis than valuable. The N. wing 
 is in ruins. The view through the arches of the long galleries 
 under the cliateau is very striking. A domestic hurries visitors 
 tlirough the chateau (fee '/.^ — 1 fr. for each pers.), and consigns 
 them to a gardener , who shows the garden with equal despatch 
 for a similar fee. Adjacent to tlie chateau is the *H6lel du 
 Dauphin or Delfino (R. 2, L. «/.,, B. 1. D. 4, A. 3/^ fr.). Ex- 
 <ursion of 2 hrs. by boat to the other islands with one rower 
 2I/.2, with two 5 fr. 
 
 The Isola Madre on its 8. side resembles the Isola Bella, 
 and is laid out in 7 terraces, with lemon and orange-trellises ; 
 (111 the upper terrace, a dilapidated 'Pala/./.o\ On the N. side 
 it is laid out with walks in the English style, which render it 
 a pleasanter resort than the Isola Bella. On the rocks on the 
 S. side are many beautiful aloes, some of which are generally 
 in flower (fee 1 fr. ). — The Isola del Pescatori is entirely 
 occupied by a small fishing village, tlie single open space being 
 just sufticient for drying the nets. 
 
 The scenery ai'Ound the Horromean Ishiiuls rivals that of the Lake of 
 CoiiKi in graiuleur, and perhaps surpasses it in the softness of its character. 
 .Monte Rosa is not visible; the snow -muuntains to the X.W. are the glaciers 
 and peaks of the Simplon; of the nearer mountains tiie must conspicuous 
 are the white granite-rocks near Baveno t p. 262). The traveller coming 
 from the X. cannot fail to be struck with the loveliness of these banks,
 
 374 Route iK5. A ROW. 
 
 studded with inininiorahk- habitations, ami clothed with southern vegetation 
 (chestnuts, mulberries, vines, figs, olives); the extensive lake with its 
 deep blue waters, and the beautiful girdle of snowy mountains, combining 
 the stern grandeur of (he High Alps with the charms of a southern cJime. 
 Rousseau at one time intended to make the Borromean Islands the scene 
 of his "Xouvelle He'loise', but considered them too artificial for his romance, 
 in which human nature is portrayed with such a masterly hand. 
 
 The steamboat now steers S. to 
 
 Stresa ('Hotel des lies Borromees, with diligence- office, 
 situated VU M. to the N. of the village, R. 2 — 3, B. Vh, L. and A. li).2, 
 D. 4 fr., pension in summer 7'|2 — 9iJ2 fr., in winter 5—6 fr., b«»at I'ja for 
 the fir.st, 1 fr. for each subsequent hr. ; 'Hotel de Milan, moderate, 
 and "Hotel du Simplon, both new: Albcrgo Reale, Ital. inn; 
 one-fiorxe carr. to Domo d"Ossola 15 — 20 fr. . two-horse 30 — 35 fr. : to Arona 
 with one horse 6 fr. : carriages for the Simplon route to Sion may also be 
 procured. No supplementary carriages provided when the diligence is full), 
 situated on the coast opposite the Isola Bella. The handsome 
 Rosminian Mcnastery, half-way up the mountain is now occupied 
 hy a school. At the N. extremity of the village is the Palazzo 
 BoLonyaro. Beautiful cypresses in the Churchyard. — Ascent 
 of Monte Motterone, see p. 375. 
 
 As the steamer pursues its course along the W. bank, the con- 
 struction of the high-road, in many places snpported by piers of 
 masonry, attracts attention from the difficulties which had to bo 
 overcome. The banks gradually become flatter, and Monte Rosa 
 makes its appearance in the W. The boat touches at Belg irate 
 (Hotel du Port-Franc). Lesa, and Meina on the W.. and at Angera 
 (only once daily) on the E. bank; the handsome chateau above 
 the latter belongs to Count Borromeo. The steamer then finally 
 stops at the railway-station below Arena. 
 
 Arona (742^ (*Italia or Post, diligence -office ; *Alher(jo 
 Reale, both on the quay: Cafe adjoining the Albergo Eeale; 
 Cafe du Lac, by the qnay) , an ancient town on the W. bank, 
 with 3153 inhab.. extends upwards on the slope of the hill. In 
 tlie principal church of <S«. Maria, the chapel of the Borromean 
 family, r. of the high-altar, contains an *Altar-picce . the Holy 
 Family, a genuine work of Gaudenzio Vinci; it is surrounded 
 by 5 other smaller pictures, the upper representing God the 
 Father, at the sides eight saints and the donatrix. 
 
 On a height overlooking the entire district. I'/.i M. N. of the 
 station and pier, is a colossal *Statue of S. Carlo. 70' in height, 
 resting on a pedestal 42' high, erected in 1697 in honour of the 
 celebrated Cardinal, Count Carlo Borromeo. Archbishop of Milan, 
 born here in 1538, died 1584. canonised 1610. 
 
 The head, hands, and fi^vi of (he statue are of bronze, the robe of 
 wrought copper. Notwithstanding its enormous dimensions, the statue is 
 not devoid of artistic merit, except that the ears are somewhat out (if 
 ju-oportion. The various parts are held together by iron clamps, and by 
 stout masonry in the interior. By means of ladders, kept in readiness in 
 the neighbourhood ( fee), the lower part of the robe can be attained on 
 the W. side, whence the interior may be entered. The venturesome climber 
 may now ascend by means of iron "bars to the head of the statue, which
 
 GALI.AIJAI K. .V.O. lioute. 'M') 
 
 will iKHoiiiiiiodalc 3 persons. A window is intri)duced at the l)ack of the 
 statnc. The sufVocating heat and the number of bats which infest the 
 interior render the ascent far from an enjoyable undertaking. 
 
 Rolics of S. Carlo are preserved in the nei}?liboiiring Church. 
 Near it an extensive Ecclesiastical Seminary. 
 
 Pedestrians returning to Switzerland should direct their luggage 
 at Arona to Domo d'Ossola, poste restante, and after visiting the Borromean 
 Islands, proceed by Stresa to Orla over 'Monte MoHcrone, see below ; thence, 
 or, if more convenient, from Gravelloiia (p. 261), on foot or by carriage to 
 Domo cVOssola (p. 261), from which the Swiss diligence to Hrieg over the 
 Siniplon starts. 
 
 Railwav bv Xovara to Tttrhi, Alessandria, and Genoa, see Baedeker's 
 X. Ilahi. 
 
 The Railway from A ron a t o M i 1 a n ( in 2«,4 — 2'|j hrs. ; fares 
 8 fr. 5, 5 fr. 8.5, 4 fr. 1.5 c.) runs on the S. bank of the lake, crosses the 
 Ticino, the boundary l>etween Piedmont and Lombardy ( till 1859 the 
 frontier of Austria and Italy), and reaches Sesto Calende ( Posta ), at the 
 S.E. e.xtremity of the Lago Maggiore, at the efflu-v of the Ticino. Stations 
 Vergiate and Honiina. A sandy and sterile tract is traversed until the 
 tr.ain reaches stat. Gallarate (where the line to Varese diverges), a cim- 
 siderablc town (5200 inbab.) at tlie S.E. Iiase of a chain of hills, and at 
 the c<»mmencemcnt of the extensive and fertile plain which the railway 
 to Milan now traverses. Maize, mulberries, and vines llourish here 
 luxuriantly. Stations Busto Arsizio, Legnano, I'arabiago, Rhb, Musocco. 
 Milan, see" p. 388. 
 
 96. From Stresa to Varallo. 
 
 Monte Motterone. Lake of Orta. Val Sesia. 
 Throe days suftice to explore a district, which, though seldom visited, 
 is one of the most beautiful of the S. Alps. Travellers fnun the Simplon 
 should, after visiting the Borromean Islands, commence this excursion at 
 Stresa (p. 374), and terminate it at Arona ; or G r a v e 1 1 o n a (p. 261 ) may 
 be taken as the starting-point, and Stresa the termination, in which case 
 the portifui between Orta and Varallo must be traversed twice. From 
 Stresa or Isola Bella to Orta 7, from Orta to Varallo 5 hrs. walking, 
 from Varallo to Arona or Novara about 6 hrs. drive. — A guide (to the 
 summit of the pass 4, to Orta 8 fr. and gratuity; Giovanni Morandi at 
 Bavcno speaks French) should be taken as far as the culminating p(»int of 
 the pass, or to the chalets, especially if the traveller propose to ascend to 
 the summit of the mountain (2 hrs. additional), which in favourable 
 weather he should not fail to do. A supi>ly of provisions is also necessary 
 tor the excursion, as little besides milk can be procured. (Unifies are 
 more easilv met with at Stresa than on the island. .\t Orta, mules mav 
 l>e hired. liut at biirb charges. 
 
 Tlic Monte Motterone, a loiifr mountain ridge, separates Lago 
 Majigiure from tin; Lake of Orta , and i.s crossed by a footpath 
 ( 7 lirs.l from Stresa or Isola Bella to Orta. The path rom- 
 moiu-es at the landing-place of the boats opposite the island, 
 and ascends rapidly by the r. bank of the brook as far as the 
 ('/.2hr.) village, beyond which it pursues a N. direction through 
 t!n' cli('>tinit-w(tod on the slope of the mountain ('/-i hr.) , com- 
 Mianding a beautiful view of Lago Maggiore. On ( '/-j ^r.) 
 emerging from the wood, the path ascends to the W., traversing 
 heath and pasture; in V2 ^r. it passes three masses of rock, 
 crosses the brook, and (•V4 hr. ) reaches a small group of houses 
 ('Ristorante all' Alpe Volpe ) . 10 min. below the culminating
 
 376 Route 96. ORTA. From Stresa 
 
 point of the pass. The summit of the mountain may be attained 
 hence in 1 hr. 
 
 The extensive prospect commanded by the summit of Uonte Motterone 
 (4S92'j- or Jfargozzolo, which might be termed the Kigi of tlie S. Alps, 
 embraces the entire amphitheatre of mmnitains from Monte Rosa to the 
 Ortk^r in the Tyrol. To the r. of Monte Kosa appear the snow-monntains 
 of Monte Moro, Pizzo di Bottarello, Simplon, Jlonte Leone, Gries, and 
 St. Gotthard, farther E. the conical Stella above Chiavenna, and the long, 
 imposing ice-range of the Beinina, which separates the Val Bregaglia 
 (p. 3G0) Iron, the Valtellina (p. 341). At the spectator's feet lie six ditTerent 
 lakes, the Lake of Orta, Lago Maggiore, Lago di Monate. Lago di Comabbio, 
 Lago di Biandrone, and Lago di Varese :; farther to the r. stretch the ex- 
 tensive plains of Lombardy and Piedmont, in the centre of which rise.s 
 the lofty cathedral of Milan. The Ticino and the Sesia meander like 
 silver threads through the plains, and by a singular optical delusion fre- 
 quently appear to traverse a lofty table-land. The simultaneous view of 
 the Isola 3Iadre in Lago Maggiore and the Isola S. Giulio in the Lake of 
 <Jrta has a remarkably picturesque eJlect. The mountain itself consists of 
 a number of barren summits, studded with occasional chalets shaded by 
 trees, but its base is encircled by chestnut-trees, and surrounded by a ricli 
 and fertile plain. 
 
 At the chalets, 25 mln. from the summit of the pass, milk 
 may be procured; (*/4 hr.) the solitary church of Madonna ill 
 Lucciago, {^^/^ hr.J Chegmo, ( '/4 l^r. ) Armeno, (40 min. ) Masino 
 are successively passed , and [^jo hr.) the high-road is reached 
 (3/4 M. from Orta) near the pension Eonchetti Posta. A short 
 distance beyond the latter a path diverges from the road to the 
 r., ascending in 10 min. to the Sacro Monte (see below), which 
 may now be most conveniently visited in passing. 
 
 Orta (_1217') (*Leone d'Oro; Hotel St. Jules, one-horse carr. 
 to Gravellona 8 fr. ; both on the quay), a small town with narrow- 
 streets, paved with marble slabs, is most picturesquely sitnated 
 on a promontory extending into the lake , at the base of a pre- 
 cipitous cliff. At the 8. entrance of the town is the handsome 
 villa of the Marquis Natta of Novara. 
 
 (J m n i b u s e s and Diligences from Orta daily to Oinegna (Posta), 
 situated at the X. extremity of the Lago di Orta, and thence via G)-arel- 
 lona (p. 261) to Pallanza (p. 372) ; also daily to Gozzano, terminus of the 
 railway to Xovara (see Baedeker's X. Italy). 
 
 Above Orta rises the ' Sacro Monte ( ascent between the two hotels), 
 a beautifully wooded eminence, laid out as a park, on which 2(1 chapels 
 were erected in the 16th cent, in honour of St. Francis of Assisi, each 
 cimtaining a scene from the life of the saint. The life-size figures are 
 composed of terra cotta. highly coloured, with a background 'al fresco:, as 
 a whole, though destitute of artistic worth, the representations are 
 animated and effective. The best groups are in the 13th. 16th, and 2()th 
 chapels, the latter representing the canonisation of the saint and the 
 assembly of cardinals. The Tower on the summit of the hill commands 
 an admirable panorama; the snowy peak of Mcmte Hosa rises to the \\'. 
 above the lower intervening mountains. The 'Eremita del Monte' expects 
 a fee of 1 fr., for showing the above-mentioned three chapels. 
 
 In the Lake of Orta (li/.j M. in breadth. 9 M. in length), 
 opposite Orta, rises the rocky island of S. Giulio, covered 
 with trees and groups of houses (boat there and back 1 fr. ). 
 The Church, founded by St. Julius, who came from Cheece 
 in 379 to convert the inhabitants of this district to Christianity,
 
 to Varallo. VAHALLO. 90. Route. 377 
 
 has been frequently restored; it contains roliinins of porphyry, 
 a niosair. pavement , several s*Jod reliefs, some ancient frescoes, 
 and in the sacristy a Madonna by Gaudenzin Ferrari. 
 
 On the W. bank of the lake, opposite the island, the white 
 honses of the village of Pella peep from the midst of vineyards, 
 1 hestnut, and walnut-trees. Boat from Orta to Pella with 2 row- 
 ers 2 fT. 
 
 .\ path towards fho S. wiiuls upwards fmm Pella. thiougli a eri»ve of 
 chestnut and I'ruit-tices, in l'|2 hr. to Madovtia del >S'a.«.*o, the picturesque 
 church uf the village of Holetto. An open space by the church, on the 
 lu'ink of a precipice rising many hundred feet perjiendii-ularly ahuve the 
 lake, commands a fine prospect. 
 
 At Pella mules may be procured for the journey over the 
 Colma to Varallo (f) hrs., guide unnecessary). A steep path 
 ascends the hill to the W. , traversing luxuriant gardens (vines, 
 figs, pumpkins, fruit-trees); in 12 min. the ascent to the r. must 
 be avoided. In 1 hr. (from Pella) Arola is reached, at a small 
 ehapel beyond which the ascent to the r. must again be avoided ; 
 the path pursues a straight direction and soon descends. The 
 Pellino , a mountain torrent, descending from the Colma, forms 
 (0 min.) a picturesque waterfall. Beautiful retrospective views 
 of the lake. The path now ascends through a shady wood, be- 
 tween disintegrated blocks of granite which crumble beneath the 
 touch, to the Col di Colma (2V2 hrs. from Pella), a ridge con- 
 necting Monte PizzUjone with Monte Ginistrella. The prospect of 
 the Alps is beautiful, embracing Monte Hosa, the lakes of Orta 
 and Varese, and the plain of Lombardy. In descending on the 
 W. side (to the r. ), the traveller overlooks the fruitful V<U Sesia, 
 \vith its numerous villages. The path, again traversing groves 
 of chestnut and walnut-trees, carpeted with turf and wild-flowers, 
 now leads through the Val Duggia to (I hr.) Civiasro and 
 (I hr.) 
 
 Varallo (1299') ('*i<ui/a,- *Posta; Falcone Nero), the principal 
 village (3200 inhab.) in the valley of the Sesia, a stream which 
 is frequently dry in summer. The old town and the Sacro 
 Monte, when seen through the arches of the bridge, have an 
 extremely picturesqiie aspect. In the town a monument has 
 been erected to Victor Emmanuel. 
 
 The Sacro Monte, the object of numerous pilgrimages, rises iii the 
 iuuuediate vicinity of the town. It is attained in '|4 hr. by a path shaded 
 by beautiful trees, biit the enjoyment is s(unewhat marred by the im- 
 portunities of numerous tieg^'ars. The summit, surmounted by a chapel and 
 crucifix, commands a magnificent view. Resides the church, fountains, etc.. 
 there are in all -iG Chapels, lu- Oratories, on the Jlonte Sacro, many of them 
 buried among the trees. They all contain representations of .scenes from 
 the life of the Saviour, in terra cotta. with life-si/e figures arranged in 
 groups. Each chapel is dev(»ted to a dilVerent subject : the 1st. fiu- example, 
 represents the Fall, the '2ml the .\niuinciation. and so on to the AGth, wliich 
 contains the Kntombuu'ut of the Virgin. Some of the frescoes by I'tleyriiio 
 Tihaldi and Gaiidenzio Ferrari are well wtjrthy of inspection; even the 
 external decorations are not i-ntirelv devoid of interest. This '■ Xtiora
 
 378 Route UH. (iKKSSONKV ST. JEAN. From Stresa 
 
 Genisalemme nel Sacro Monle dl Vavallo'' was founded by Bernardino Caloto, 
 a Milanese nobleman, with the sanctirtn of Pope Innocent VIII. As a 
 resort of pilgrims, it did not come into vogiie until after the visits of 
 Cardinal Borromeo (p. 374) in 1578 and 1584, from which period most 
 of the chapels date. 
 
 Varallo is admirably adapted as head-quarters for excursions 
 to the very attractive and easily accessible valleys in the vicinity. 
 
 The carriage - road to Arona descends the picturesque valley 
 of the Sesia to (6 M.) Borgo-Sesia, (1^2 M.) Romaynano (Post); 
 quitting the Val Sesia, it then crosses the mountains to (T'/o ^I- ) 
 liorgomanero, and (6 M. ) Arona (p. 374). — Omnibus twice daily 
 from Varallo to Novara, junction of the railways to Arona, Milan, 
 Alessandria (Genua), and Turin. Comp. Baedeker's Northern Italy. 
 
 From Varallo to Macugnaga (p. 263) several moimtain-paths 
 lead, all fatiguing, and traversing difficult passes. The shortest ( 15 good 
 hrs.) leads by Carcoforo in the Xnl Sermenza and the Col di 
 Botiggia (Passo Plana). From Varallo by Valmaggia and Vocca to 
 Balmuccia in the Val Sesia is a drive of lija hr. (One-horse carr. 6 fr., 
 including fee.) The entire Val Senitenza must then be ascended on foot 
 by a rough, half-paved path, by Borcioletto and Rimasco (the higher of the 
 two poor, but expensive inns is the better), in 5 good hrs. to Carco/oro, 
 where an experienced guide should be engaged for crossing the pass. In 
 the Val di Quarazza, into which the pedestrian descends to the N.W., are 
 two magnificent waterfalls, frequently visited by travellers on their way 
 to Macugnaga fi-om the N. or E. From Carcoforo to Mac\ignaga 71J2 hrs. — 
 Another path leads from Rimasco (see above) X.W. through the Valle 
 riccola to Riina (poor inn), 7 hrs. from Varallo, whence another extremely 
 fatiguing pass C- Little Turlo'), by no means recommended, traverses the 
 mountain to the Val di Qiiaiazza ( from Eima to JIacugnaga 8 hrs.) — 
 Others prefer making a digression to Alagna (3950', see below), in a singu- 
 larly beautiful situation, and the Tuilo Pass (9091'), which, however, is also 
 difficult and deficient in interest. — Another route ascends N. through 
 the Val Mastallone by Fobello to Poiite Grande ( p. 262) , and thence to 
 Macugnaga. 
 
 From Varallo by G r c s s o n e y to L e B r e u i 1 (p. 269) two days' 
 excursion. Conveyance from the post-office at Varallo daily in 2 hrs. to 
 (12 M.) Fiode, ascending the Val Sesia (see above), with which the Val di 
 Sermenza unites at Balmuccia. Thence a gradual ascent of l')2 hr. to Mollia 
 (■Albergo Valsesiano), and (I'j^hr.) Riva (tolerable inn). Here several of 
 the peaks of Monte Rosa become visible, of which a still finer view is 
 obtained from Alagna (3950'). The inn at Alagna, where German is spoken, 
 is better than that of Riva. but travellers proceeding to Gressoney must 
 return to Riva. To the W. of Alagna lies the Passo d'Ollen (9200'), leading 
 to S. Giacomo la Trinith (Gressoneij la Trin te). 
 
 Ascending gradually from Riva for I'jj hr. in the Val Votjna, the path 
 passes through several iiiiserable villages, then forms a sharp angle to the 
 r. and mounts a precipitous slope (in 2 hrs.) to the Col di Valdobbia (8359'), 
 tiie hospice of which is visible during the last '|.' hr. Here re fresh iiients 
 and rough accommodation for the night may be procured. Tlic jiath de- 
 scends still more precipitously, at first traversing a snnw-field and loose 
 stones, and finally pine-forest, in 2 hrs. to Gressoney St. Jean (4990') 
 (Hotel el Pension Mont Rose). The view from the Col di Valdobbia is in- 
 significant, but embraces a charming survey of the Val Gressoney with its 
 rich pastures, pine-clad slopes, groups of cottages, and picturesque water- 
 falls. Towards the N. it is terminated by the Lyskanim (comp. p. 275) ; to 
 the X.W. rises the snow-dad Gran-Haiipt (11,037'). 
 
 Descending the valley from Gressoney, the traveller reaches Pont 
 St. Martin in the Dora Valley, on the road from Aosta to Ivrea (see 
 Baedeker^s N. Haiti), in 5 hrs; or in 4 hrs. over the Ranzola- Fiirke to 
 Bvusson (4410'), and in 4 hrs. more by the Col de Jon to Chdtillon (p. 270).
 
 to VaniLlo. KUKCA 1>I I'.KTTA. Ud. Route. -^7'.) 
 
 Tlip fUiTct route from Oressoney to Lc Rreuil is more interesting, hut. 
 iiiiiif fatiguing. Tiie path gradually ascends in th*; Val Gres.soney for 2 hrs., 
 then turninji to the 1., ascends rapidly in I hr. to a cliajiel commanding a 
 magnificent prospect of the Lyskamm. tlii' Lys Glacier, and thni- jieaks of 
 Monte Rosa. After another hour's climbing, the Furca di Betta, ( SG38') is 
 attained, whence the chain of the Pennine Alps, rising above the Val d'Ayas, 
 and the imposing snow-clad Grand Combin (p. 237) are visible. 
 
 After a steep descent of 1 hr., Ilefel or Ilei^y is reached-, at the first 
 ( lialet (scanty refreshments) a mnle may be liired. The path to Le Breuil 
 traverses the Col des Cimes Hlanches. At 8t. Jarfiiieit^ half-way between the 
 Furca di Betta and the Col des Olmes Blanches, at the upper e.xtremity of 
 the Ayas Valley, there is a clean ' hm. By the same route the JIatterjoch, 
 or Theodul Pass (p. 269), may also be attained without passing thnmgh 
 Le Breuil ; this path is, however, more dangerous than that from Le Breuil 
 *m account of the crevasses of the glacier. The path from Resel descends 
 and ascends for 1 hr., skirting the glaciers of Ayas and Aventina, and 
 avoiding the ravines of the glacier-brooks and the huge fragments of 
 granite by various circuits, and finally ascends rapidly to the chalets of 
 Aventina, whevG the direct path to the JFatterjoch diverges to the r. The 
 path to Le Breuil mo\ints in 1 hr. to the Col des Cimes Blanches (9879'), 
 whence the mountains of Val Tournanche and the entire Alpine chain 
 from jMont Blanc to Aosta are visible. A small lake lies to the 1. ; far 
 and wide the scene is one of utter desolation. After descending from the 
 Col, the path to the r. must be selected, bv which in 2'J.> hrs. (to the 1., 
 also 2'f2hrs.. to the church of Val Tourna'ndie, p. 270) Lt- Breuil (p. 269) 
 is reached. (The passage of the Mattorjoch is considered less fatiguing 
 from Le Breuil than from Zermatt on the ??. side. Distances from the 
 Hotel du Mont Cervin near Le Breuil : to the S. base of the glacier li,2 l>r., 
 to the summit of the pass I hr., to the X. base of the glacier 1 hr., U\ 
 Zermatt 2iijhrs.. altogether G hrs., two of which are occupied in crossing 
 the glacier, comp. p. 269.) 
 
 These three passes, the Col di Valdobbia, the Furca di Betta, and the 
 Col des Cimes Blanches, are also practicable for mules. The guides on the 
 Italian side of Monte Rosa are sometimes unreasonable in their demands and 
 not strictly trustworthy. From Riva to Gressoney (5'j-.' hrs.) a charge of 
 10 fr., including fee, is made, from Gressoney to Le Breuil (ll';-2 hrs.) 10 fr.. 
 jirovisions (which must be taken from Gressoney), and fee. Mule fnun Resel 
 to the summit of the Col des Cimes Blanches 8 fr. Guide from Le Breuil 
 to Zermatt 15 fr., including fee. This route is, however, one of the most 
 interesting and im))osing Alpine excursions which can be undertaken, and 
 far surpasses the Tour du Jlont Blanc (comp. p. 229). 
 
 97. From Liiino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio 
 on the Lake of Como. Lake of Lugano. 
 
 Comp. Map, p. :iHH. 
 
 Diligence from lAiino t(» Lur/ano in 23|4 hrs. (cou[ie ',] fr. 60, interior 
 2 fr. 90 c.) ; two-horse carr. 20. one-horse 10 — 12 fr. ; return-carr. occasi<)nally 
 met with at Luino at a uu)derate charge. Steamboat from Lntjano to 
 I'orlezza (once daily), on Tuesdays 3 trips, fare 2 or I fr. ; tickets may he 
 procured on board the steamboats for the oninilius, with which it generally 
 corresp(uids (2'!.; fi-., coupe 3 fr.). and for one-horse (6 fr.) ami two-horse 
 (12 fr.) carr. from I'orhir.a to Mena<jijio (in 2 hrs.. distance9 M.). Complaints 
 arc frequently made with regard to the vetturini of Porlezza and Mena^igio. 
 Rowing-boat from Lugano to Porlez/a with one rower 7, with two 
 12, with three 16'j.. fr. — Steamboats on Lago .Maggiore. see p. 370. on the 
 Lake of Como, see p. 381. 
 
 A good road leads from Luino (p. 371) to Lugano, .isceudiiig 
 immediately in the roar of Luino, and commanding a tine retro- 
 spective view of Lago Maggiore. After 3 M. the Italian and
 
 380 Route .97. LAKE OF LUGANO. 
 
 Swiss frontier is attained on tlie height, at Forna.'^ette . the seat 
 of the Italian custom-house. 
 
 The road now descends; the background to the E. is formed 
 by Monte S. Salvadore. with the chapel on the S. peak (p. 368). 
 Tlie river Tresa is then approached and skirted as far as (-i'/o M.) 
 Ponte Tresa, situated on a bay of the Lake of Lugano , and so 
 enclosed by mountains as apparently to form a separate lake. 
 A bridge over the Tresa (which the road does not cross] here 
 connects the Swiss with the Italian bank. The Tresa , the outlet 
 of the Lake of Lugano, falls into Lago Maggiore. '-^1^ M. to the 
 S.W. of Luino. 
 
 The road leads by the N.W. bank of this arm of the Lake 
 of Lugano to (IV2 ^^-l Matjliaso. with an ancient castle of the 
 Keroldingen family, and (l'/.^ M.) Agno (968'), crossing the river 
 of that name; it then gradually ascends (to the 1. the small Lake 
 of Muzzano^ an eminence, at the E. base of which (3 M.) Lugano 
 (p. 366) is situated. 
 
 The *Lake of Lugano (889'). Ital. Lago Ceresio, presents a 
 succession of the most beautiful landscapes, and is a worthy rival 
 of its more celebrated and imposing neighbours, the Lake of Como 
 and Lago Maggiore. In the vicinity of Lugano the banks are 
 picturesquely studded with villas and chapels, and planted with 
 the vine, fig, olive, and walnut. The W. side of the S. arm also 
 presents several delightful points of view (p. 366). On the 
 N. bank (1.) Castagnola. r. (S.) the 'oantine' (p. 368) of Monte 
 Caprino; 1., charmingly situated at the base of Monte Bre (p. 368), 
 Gandria, with its lianging gardens (on lofty arcades) and vine- 
 terraces. Beyond this point the lake assumes a wilder character. 
 The next villages are (1.) Bellarma (frontier), Oria with the VilUi 
 Bianci^ Albogasio , S. .Sfametto at the infliix. of the Soldo. To 
 the r. the bank is studded with wine-cellars ('cantines'). To 
 the 1. Loggio, Cresogno, and Cima, opposite which (S.) lie Osteno 
 (in the vicinity of which is a remarkable rocky gorge , resembling 
 that of Pfiiffers), and Claino. At the N. extremity of this E. 
 bay lies Forlezza {Inn. on the lake), seat of the Italian custom- 
 house, possessing a harbour. Kowing-boat to Lugano 10 — 1'2 fr. 
 Steamboat and omnibus, see above. 
 
 A good road leads from Porlezza to Menaggio (carr. see p. 379). 
 The walk (3 hrs.) from the Lake of Lugano to the Lake of Como 
 affords an uninterrupted series of beautiful views, terminated by 
 a magnificent prospect from the highest point, near Croce, of the 
 greater portion of the Lake of Como. Near Croce. 2^^ M. before 
 Menaggio is reached, a footpath leads to the r. direct to Griante 
 and Cadenabbia (p. 383). From the carriage - road to Menaggio 
 (p. 38'2) the Villa Vigoni (p. 383) near Loveno may be con- 
 veniently visited.
 
 381 
 
 98. The Lake of Como. 
 
 Coinp. Map, p. il66. 
 
 Steamboat 3 times daily from Colico to Corao in 3',-.' hrs. ; to Lecco 
 
 3 times weekly. Fares from" Colico to Como 4 fr. or 2 fr. lU c. (restaurant 
 on board indifVerentJ. Stations: Coliro, Domaso, Graredoiia, Dotifjo, Cremia, 
 Dei'vio, Rezzonico, Bellano, Menaggio (pier), Varenna, Bellaygio (pier). Cade- 
 iiabbia (pier), Tiemezzina., Le?uio, Campo, Aigegiio, Xeggo, Tonigia, Laglio, 
 ('arate, MoKrasio, Torno, Como. Embarcation and landing included in the 
 fare (the tickets have a coupon which is given to the boatman). Between 
 Caderiabbia, or Menaggio, and Bellaggio, the steamboat is the cheapest 
 conveyance, especially for a single traveller. Those who embark at in- 
 termediate stations between Como and Colico must provide themselves with 
 a ticket at the pier ; othei'\vise they are liable to be charged for the whole 
 distance from Como or Colico. 
 
 Boats (barca). First hour with one rower iii2. with two 3 fr.. three 
 4i|2 fr.. for each additional h(mr 1 fr. per rower. From Bellaggio to 
 Cadenabbia and back 3 fr.. with two rowers 4 fr. ; Bellaggio to 3Ienaggio 
 and back 4 fr. ; Bellaggio to Varenna and back 4 fr. ; Bellaggio to Villa 
 Melzi, Villa Carlotta, and back 4 fr. ; Bellaggio to Villa Giulia and back 
 
 4 fr. One rower generally suflices, unless the traveller's time be limited. 
 If a second be anxious to join the party, he may be got rid of by the 
 words '■basta itno' (one is enough). More favourable terms than the ab<jvc 
 may sometimes be agreed to by the boatmen when customers are not 
 numerous. In making a bargain the following questions will be found 
 useful: '■Qtianlo voleie per una corsa dun ora (di due ore).'' f<iaino due 
 (Ire, quuttro) pevKone. E troppo, vi daro un franco (due franchi)' , etc. 
 — The boatmen generally expect a gratuity of ijz — 1 fr. in proportion to 
 Ihe length of the trip, in addition to their fare. 
 
 Tho Lake of Como (699'; greatest depth 19'29'_), Ital. Lmjo 
 (I'l Como. (»r // Ldrio. tlie Lacus Larius of the Konians, oxtolleil 
 by Virgil ideorg. II. 159), is in the estimation of many the 
 most beautiful of the lakes of N. Italy. From its N. extremity 
 to Como it is 30 M. in length. At Bellagirio (p. 383) it divides 
 into two arms, the Lake of Como. properly so called, and that 
 of Lecco. The latter, from the Punta di Bellaggio to Lecco, is 
 I2V2 M. long. The lake attains its greatest width , '23/4 M., 
 between Menaggio and Varenna.- The Adda, by which the lake 
 is fed at the N. extremity, emerges from it again at Lecco. 
 
 Numerous gay villas of the Milanese aristocracy, surrounded by 
 lux\iriant gardens and vineyards, are scattered along the banks of tho lake. 
 In the forests above, the brilliant green of the chestnut and wahmt cim- 
 trasts strongly with the greyish tints of the olive, which to the unaccustomed 
 eye bears a stnmg resemblance to the willow. The mountains rise to a 
 height of 7000'. The .scenery of the lake, as seen from the deck of tin' 
 steamboat, faintly resembles" that of the Khine. though on a far grander 
 scale, the banks on both sides being perfectly distinguishable by the tra- 
 veller. — The populati<m of the banks of the lake is of an industrial 
 character, and is principally employed in the production and manufacture 
 of silk. — The Lacu.'i LariuA derives a classic interest from its connection 
 with the two Plinies. natives of Como, the elder of whom prosecuted his 
 philosophical researches in the surrounding district. — The lake abounds 
 in tish ; trout of 20 lbs. wei"j:bt are not unfrequentlv captured. The ''AgonC 
 are small, but palatable.
 
 382 Route 98. 
 
 LAKE OF COMO. 
 
 Easterji Bank. 
 Coilco see p. 3()0. 
 
 Dorio and Cortnno. 
 
 Dervio . at the mouth of the 
 Varrone , at the foot of Monte 
 Leynone (HoBG'J (^which rises 
 almost perpendicularly from the 
 lake j, and its prolongation, Monte 
 Legnoncino (49;")! 'J. 
 
 BeUiino, at the foot of Monte 
 Griyna (72o4') , at the mouth 
 of the Pioverna. This valley 
 extends inland towards Lecco, 
 and is noted for its ironworks. 
 
 O it tana . landing-place for 
 the hydropathic establishment 
 of lieyoledo, situated 500' above 
 the lake. Pension 5 fr. , 2 fr. 
 additional for baths, etc. Donkey 
 trom Gittana to Regoledo 1 fr., 
 horse or litter '2 fr. 
 
 Varenna (*Albergo lieale). In 
 the vicinity, especially towards 
 the N., are some remarkable gal- 
 leries hewn in the rock for the 
 passage of the road (^p. 342). 
 The marble procured from the 
 neighbouring quarries is polished 
 and worked in the town. 
 
 About '/-iM. to the 8. of the 
 town the Flume Latte., or milk- 
 stream (^so named from its white 
 rolourj precipitates itself in se- 
 veral leaps from a height of 
 1000 ft. The volume of water 
 is very impoing between Manh 
 
 Western Rank. 
 Domaso (Inn) , delightfully 
 situated, possesses several hand- 
 some villas, especially Villa (al- 
 derara and Villa Lasquez. 
 
 Qraveduna (Hotel del Sasso), 
 the most populous village on the 
 lake , picturesquely situated at 
 the entrance of a gorge. The 
 handsome villa with four towers 
 at the upper extremity was built 
 by Cardinal Gallio of Milan, and 
 is now the property of a private 
 individual. The Church, dating 
 from the 13th cent. , «ontains 
 two Christian inscriptions of the 
 oth cent. 
 
 Donyo . with a Dominican 
 monastery. On the height above 
 Dongo lies Garzeno , whence a 
 path leads over the Passo del 
 Jorio to (10 hrs. ) Hellinzona. 
 
 On a precipitous rock above 
 Musso are the ruins of the castle 
 of that name , the former pro- 
 prietor of which, after the battle 
 of Pavia (1525), founded a prin- 
 cipality here embracing the entire 
 Lake of Como. 
 
 Pianello and Cremia . with 
 picturesque church. 
 
 Jiezzonico ( Raetionicumj, with 
 the picturesque ruins of a for- 
 tress of the 13th cent. Next 
 «S\ Abbondio. 
 
 A dangerous footpath crosses 
 the wild precipice of 11 Sasso 
 Rancio (^'the orange rock'), tra- 
 versed by the Russians under 
 Belleyarde in 1799, on whicli 
 occasion many lives were lost. 
 
 At Menaggio (Vittoria; Co- 
 rona) , whence a road leads to 
 Porlezza on the Lake of Liigano 
 (p. 380), there is an extensive 
 silk manufactory, to whirh visit- 
 ors are readily admitted.
 
 LAKE OF COMO. 
 
 9A,'. Route. 
 
 383 
 
 E a s t e r II B ;i 11 k . 1 \V e s t e r n li a n k . 
 
 and May. Admirable view from , About V2 ^^^- ^*' ^^e N. of 
 tlie ruined castle of Torre di Menaggio , near the church of 
 Vezio. situated high above the j Loceno (*IniiJ, stands the Villa 
 town. Viyoni (^*vie\vj . formerly the 
 
 property of Herr Mylius , of 
 Frankfort (d. 1854), a liberal 
 patron of art, and tlie benefactor 
 of the entire neighbourhood, a-^ 
 the monuments to his memory 
 testify. The villa contains some 
 admirable modern Italian works 
 in marble, reliefs by Thorwald- 
 sen (^Nemesis , in the temple 
 erected by Herr Mylius to his 
 son's memory ) and Marchesi ; in 
 the garden - saloon a *group by 
 Argenti , the proprietress with 
 her children. 
 
 To the S. of Menaggio. close 
 
 to the lake, stands the new and 
 
 palatial Villa Myliuii. 
 
 Here the lake diviiles: the S.W. arm is properly named the 
 
 hake of Como, the S.E. the Lake of Lecco: these two arms 
 
 are separated by the Punta di BtUayyio. 
 
 Lake of 
 Bellaggio ( TUiS' ) (. u r a u d c 
 
 li r c t a ^ u c . expensive •, U e a a /- 
 / i n i , luoie jnodurate, both beauti- 
 fully situated on the lake, pension 
 according to bargain 6—10 fr. per 
 day. P 6 n s i o n V i 1 1 a S e r b e 1 1 o n i 
 and \" i 1 1 a Oiulia, sec below. 
 — ll('»tel et Pension Suisse; 
 11 (H e 1 d e Florence, moderate, 
 pension 5 IV., well spoken of. — 
 /loats, see p. 381), at the W. base 
 of the promontory which sepa- 
 rates the two arms of the lake, 
 perhaps the most delightful point 
 on any of the lakes of Ipper 
 Italy. To the 1. of the steamboat- 
 pier is situated the Villa Frizzoni, 
 tontaining a few goixl pictures, 
 the property of M. Fri/zoni, a 
 >ilk - menliant of liergamo, and 
 a native of the Engadine. — A 
 
 Como. 
 
 Cadenabbia (ca de navia, ship- 
 hous') ( nellovue. K. 3, B. fij,., 
 D. 4',-.;. 1- 1, A. 1, pension G— 7fr. ; 
 
 Belle lie, moderate; \'ille de 
 Milan, formerly Pension JIajolica, 
 5 fr.), halfway between Como 
 and Colico. A short distance 
 S. \V. of the village, in a garden 
 sloping down to the lake, stands 
 the celebrated *Villa Carlotta 
 (^or Sommarii-a, after the count 
 of that name to whom it origi- 
 nally belonged). It was pur- 
 cliased by the Princess Albert 
 of Prussia in 1843, and named 
 after her daughter Charlotte 
 (^d. ISoa). It is now the prop- 
 erty of the Duke of Sachsen- 
 Meiningen, widower of the lat- 
 ter. Visitors ring at the entrame
 
 384 Route 98. 
 
 LAKE OF COMO. 
 
 Eastern Rank, 
 short distance S. of the village 
 is the *Villa Melzi, erected 
 in 1802, under Buonaparte when 
 president of the Italian Republic, 
 for Count Melzi d'Erile , after- 
 wards Duke of Lodi. It now 
 belongs to the Duca di Melzi, 
 grandson of the founder, and is 
 not less attractive than the Villa 
 Carlotta on the opposite bank 
 (attendant 1 fr. , more for a 
 party). 
 
 Ante -Chamber. Copies of 
 antiques in marble, by Canova; mo- 
 ther of ^^apoleon, Canova; busts ot 
 present proprietor anil others ; David, 
 by Fraccaruli; Spring, by Fandiani, 
 etc. The walls of the following rooms 
 are adornedVith frescoes : the dining- 
 room with genii bringing game, fruit, 
 etc. ; this room contains a Venus 
 by Pompeo Marchesi. and a bust of 
 Michael Angelo. In the following 
 rooms : Portrait of Napoleon as Presi- 
 dent of the Italian republic, by 
 Appiani; Bacchante, by Canova; bust 
 of Micliael Angelo, bv the same. 
 
 The -(iarden (attendant ij-i fr.) 
 is luxuriantly stocked with magnolias, 
 cedars, Chinese pines, gigantic aloes, 
 etc. — The Chapel contains family 
 monuments in marble. — In another 
 part of the garden, Dante and Beatrice, 
 by Comolli. 
 
 On the height above Bellaggio 
 stands the Villa Serbelloni [Hotel 
 and Pemion). somewhat resemb- 
 ling an old farm-house. The *view 
 from the park, which extends to 
 the extremity of the wooded pro- 
 montory . embraces the lake in 
 both directions , as well as the 
 Lake of Lecco (see p. 386). This 
 is perhaps the tinest view on 
 the lake. Charming glimpses of 
 Varenna, Villa Balbianello, Car- 
 lotta, etc. (admission i fr. each 
 person). — The Villa Belmonte 
 (admission '/-i fi"-) also commands 
 a fine view. — A short distance 
 S. of this, in the direction of 
 
 Western Rank, 
 to the garden and ascend the 
 steps, where they are received 
 by the attendant (1 fr. , more 
 for a party). 
 
 Interior. The M a rble S al o o n 
 possesses a frieze adorned with cele- 
 brated **reliefs hyThorwaldsen., repre 
 senting the Triumph of Alexander 
 (for which the Count of Sommariva 
 paid a sum equivalent to 15,000 I. ster- 
 ling) ; it also contains several statues : 
 'Cupid and Psyche, Magdalene, Pala- 
 medes, Venus and Paris, all by Ca- 
 nova; Mars and Venus, by Acquisti; 
 Cupid offering water to "doves, by 
 Bienahne. etc. The billiard- room 
 contains casts, and a chimney-piece 
 with sculptiired frier.e, said to be 
 one of Thorwaldsen's early works. 
 In the garden - saloon are several 
 modern pictures, also a marble relief 
 by Lazzarini. representing Napoleon 
 as consul. — Garden (attendant 
 i|2 fr.) less richly stocked than those 
 of the villas Melzi and Serbelloni, but 
 worthy of a visit. Fine view of 
 Bellaggio. 
 
 Behind the 'Milan' hotel rises 
 a rock , II Sasso S. Martino, 
 half-way up which stands a small 
 church. Madonna di S. Martina., 
 commanding a beautiful view ; 
 ascent I'/o hr. ; a cool spring 
 near it. — The Monte Crocione, 
 a more lofty mountain to the 
 W. , commands a striking view 
 of the Monte Rosa chain , the 
 Bernese Alps and Mont Blanc, 
 the lakes and the plain of Lom- 
 bardy (a fatiguing ascent of 
 H — 7 hrs. ; guide 5 fr. ; in 
 order to avoid the heat the tra- 
 veller should start at 2 or 3 
 a. m.). 
 
 Tremezzo (*Albergo Bazzoni, 
 moderate) is almost a continua- 
 tion of Cadenabbia. Retweon 
 the two places stands the Villa 
 Carlotta. The surrounding dis- 
 trict, the Tremezzina , is justly 
 termed the garden of Lombardy.
 
 LAKE OF COMO. 
 
 98. Routt 
 
 385 
 
 Eafetern Bank, 
 the Lake of Lecco, is the Villa 
 Giulia (Hotel and Pension), the 
 property of the Count of Flan- 
 ders , brother of Leopold IL of 
 Belgium. Beautiful flowers, ad- 
 mirable view over the Lake of 
 Lecco. Adjoining the latter to 
 the S. is the Villa Paldi. — 
 The Monte S. Primo may be as- 
 cended from Bellaggio in 4 hrs., 
 see p. 383. 
 
 Near Lezzeno is one of the 
 deepest parts of the lake. 
 
 Nesso (Xaxos?), at the foot 
 of the Piano del Ticano (^3803'), 
 Nesso Sopra and Nesso Sotto; 
 near the latter , in a narrow 
 gorge , is a waterfall of con- 
 siderable height, frequently dry i ly 3 '4 M. in width, 
 in summer. 
 
 Careno and Quarsano. 
 
 ! W e s t e r n B a n k . 
 
 j At the extremity of the long 
 
 1 promontory of Lavedo stands 
 
 I the handsome Villa Balbianello, 
 
 ' with its colonnade, the property 
 
 ' of Count Arcomati. Lenno is 
 
 situated in the bay. To the S. 
 
 of the promontory lies Campo, 
 
 and beyond this Sala ; between 
 
 these two lies the small island 
 
 of S. Giovanni, or Comacina^ 
 
 which in the middle ages was 
 
 fortified, and is often mentioned 
 
 in history. A small church now 
 
 stands on it. 
 
 Argeyno, at the mouth of the 
 Intelci Valley. 
 
 Brienno , abounding in lau- 
 rels ; next 
 
 Torrigia, and Villa O'albiati, 
 completed in 1855, gaily painted 
 exterior. The lake is here scarce- 
 
 I Laglio, with Villa Gaggi, now 
 Antonglna. To the N., by the 
 Villa Pliniana, at the end of j lake , is a lofty Pyramid with 
 
 the bay , at the entrance of a 
 narrow gorge , a gloomy square 
 edifice, erected in 1570 by 
 
 the inscription 'Joseph Frank', 
 and a medallion. Frank was a 
 professor at Pavia (_d. 1851), 
 
 Count Anguissola , one of the I and grandson of the celebrated 
 four conspirators who assassinated i physician Peter Frank of Vien- 
 
 Duke Farnese at Piacenza. 
 now the property of the prin- 
 
 na ; he left the sum of 25,000 fr. 
 for the erection of this monu- 
 
 ces of Belgiojoso , whose name ment to his own memory, from 
 figured so conspicuously in the which it may be inferred he 
 disturbances of 1848. It derives did not do much to merit the 
 its name of Pliniana from a remembrance of posterity. The 
 neighbouring spring which daily ' green and red villa belongs to 
 changes its level, a peculiarity I Count Colobiano. 
 mentioned by Pliny. Extracts' Carate ; in the background 
 from his works (^Epist. IV. 3U, j the Monte Bisbino (4415'). 
 Hist. Nat. I J. 1?06V are inscribed Moltrasio . with a beautiful 
 on the walls of the court. | waterfall. 
 
 Torno. To the 8. of Torno j Villa Passalacqua , with its 
 both banks of the lake are stud- numerous windows, resembles a 
 ded with villas. | manufactory. 
 
 B^DEKEK. Switzerland. 5th Edition. O'^
 
 386 Route 98. COMO. 
 
 Eastern Bank. Western Bank. 
 
 Villa Taverna , formerly Fa- \ Villa Pizzo. Villa d'Este (now 
 roni; Villa Pasta, with hot- | an hotel), for a considerable 
 house ; Villa Taglioni . with a period the residence of Queen 
 Swiss cottage, formerly the pro- | Caroline (d. 1821), the un- 
 perty of the famous danseuse, fortunate consort of George IV. ; 
 now that of her son-in-law, the ] Villa Raimondi, late Odescalchi, 
 Russian Prince Trubetzkoy; Villa the most extensive on the lake, 
 Napoli. a castellated edifice. situated at Bor^o Vico, the N. W. 
 
 suburb of Como. 
 
 The Lake of Lecco. 
 
 From Bellaggio to Lecco, and vice versa, steamboat 3 times 
 weekly (comp. p. 381). 
 
 The banks of this S.E. arm of the Lake of Como cannot vie in beauty 
 with those of its W. neighbour ; the steamboat journey is nevertheless a 
 very pleasant one. Lecco is charmingly situated. The precipitous and 
 formerly inaccessible E. bank is traversed by a high-road, in many places 
 supported by masonry, in others passing through tunnels or galleries. 
 
 The steamboat rounds the Punta di Bellaggio; on the height 
 above is situated the garden of the Villa Serbelloni, and adjoin- 
 ing it the Villa Giulia and the village of Visgnola. Then Limonta, 
 and opp. to it (1.) Lierna and /Sorn/co ; (r.) Onno. (}.') Olcio and 
 Mandello on a flat promontory. On the opposite bank (r.) lies 
 the small town of Pare , separated from Malgrate by the pro- 
 montory of S. Dionigio. Malgrate itself lies at the entrance of 
 the Val Madrera . through which the road to Como via Erba 
 leads (p. 387). The lake gradually contracts to the river Adda, 
 which flows out of it, and is crossed by the Ponte Grande , a 
 stone bridge with ten arches. 
 
 Lecco [Alhergo d' Italia; *Croce di Malta; Leone d'Oro: all 
 very Italian), an industrial town with 8000 inhab. . admirably 
 described in Manzoni's 'I Promessi Sposi'. Walks: to the hill 
 of Castello; to the pilgrimage-church on the Monte Baro (view 
 of the Brinnza). 
 
 Railway from Lecco to Bergamo in i^lt hr. : stations Calolzio, 
 Cisario, ifapel'lio, Ponte S. Pietro, and Bergamo, a stat. on the Verona-Milan 
 line (comp. Baedeker's X. Italy), Milan, see p. 388. 
 
 Como fTOo') (*Hotel Volta, formerly A n g e 1 o : 'Italia, R. 2, 
 L. 34. B. 11,2, D. 3, A. 1 fr. . both at the harbour: a bath estab. in the 
 Ticinity : Corona; -Trattoria di Frasconi Confaloiiieri, at the end of the 
 street leading in a straight direction from the harbour), with 20,614*' 
 inhab. , birth-place of the two Plinies and of the celebrated 
 electrician and philosopher Yolta (his Statue by P. Marchesi on 
 a very lofty pedestal, is on the W. side of the town near the 
 harbour), is situated at the S. extremity of the S.W. arm of 
 the Lake of Como, in the centre of an amphitheatre of mountains. 
 The '^Cathedral, constructed entirely of marble, commenced in
 
 ERBA. 98. Route. 3S7 
 
 1396. completed in 1521, is one of the finest in N. Italy: facade 
 covered with statuettes and reliefs. The interior is disfigured 
 by the gaudily painted vaulting. The portal is adorned with 
 handsome stained-glass windows. Adjoining the church is the 
 Town Hall (Brolettoj . completed in 1215, the walls of which 
 are composed of a singular variety of stones of diflferent colours. 
 Large silk manufactories. 
 
 The station of the Milan railway is at Camerlata. see p. 366. 
 Omnibus from the steamboat to the station in 35 min. (h-i fr."). 
 €omp. Baedeker's N. Italy. 
 
 Diligence from Camerlata (p. 366) to Varese on the arrival of the Milan 
 trains ; also on the arrival of the first train to Laveno fp. 372j on Lago 
 Maggiore (comp. Baedeker's X. Itah/), by Varese in 5 hrs. ; omnibus to 
 Varese in the afternoon ; 3i j fr. is the fare usually demanded, but less is 
 often taken. From the Corona inn an omnibus (2 fr. 10 c.) runs to Capo- 
 lago (p. 365), corresponding with the steamboat on the Lake of Lugano. 
 Swiss diligences (number of passengers not limited) twice daily from 
 Camerlata to Lugano fp. 366) in 3'> hrs. , BeJUnzona (p. 83) in 7' •> hrs. 
 (R. 92), Lucerne (over the St. Gotthard , R. 23) in 25' a hrs.. Coi/v"(over 
 the Bernardino. R. 91) in 24', 2 hrs. 
 
 Walk on the E. Bank. On the E. side of the lake two routes lead 
 from Como along the slope of the mountain ; the lower of these passes 
 small villages and numerous villas: the upper, after a walk of 40 min., 
 commands a superb view of the snow-movintains to the W. : it passes 
 through T7oo, Sopra-Villa, Cazzanore, leaving the Villa Pliniana (p. 385) 
 far below, and reaches Riva di Palanzo, where there is an auberge on the 
 lake ; thence by steamboat, which stops opposite, near Carafe. 
 
 From Como to Erba and Bellaggio, by Land, very pleasant 
 for pedestrians . and especially recommended for the 'Teturn-journey to 
 those who have not quitted the steamboat on their route to Como. The 
 traveller follow^ the road to Lecco. leaving Como by the Porta Milanese. 
 The road gradually ascends the E. slope, the view of Como is intercepted 
 by the beautifully wooded Monte S. Maurizio: to the S. the country is 
 overlooked in the direction of 3Iilan ; on the E. lies the Brianza , ' an 
 undulating and extremely fertile tract, 12 M. long. 6 M. wide, situated be- 
 tween the Lambro and the Adda . and stretching X.E. to Lecco. This is 
 termed the Garden of Lombardy'. and is a favourite resort of the Milanese, 
 with whose villas it is profusely sprinkled. The church of the village of 
 Camnago., 'N. of the road , contains Volta's tomb (see above). Farther on, 
 to the S. of the road near a small lake, is the sharp ridge of Monlorfano. 
 Near Cassano a campanile is observed , which . like the celebrated leaning 
 tower of Pisa, is very much out of the perpendicular. Beyond Albesio the 
 view extends over the valley of Erba ( Pian d'Erba) and the lakes of -.4/- 
 serio, Pii.'<iaiio, and Annone , above which on the E. rise the Comi di 
 Canzo (4512) and the Resegone di Lecco (6161'). 
 
 Near (10' 2 M.) Erba (1017') (Inn), a small town in a very fertile 
 district . are several villas on the -Pian d'Erba", the most remarkable of 
 which is the Villa Amalia, on the N.W. side, with a charming view of 
 the Brianza. Xear Incino, witli its lofty Lombard tower, 'J4 hr. S.E. of 
 Erba, stood the Liciniforum of the Romans , which Pliny mentions with 
 Bergamo and Como. 
 
 Beyond Erba the road crosses the Lambro, which is here converted 
 into a canal and conducted into the Lago di Pusiano, a short distance to 
 the S.E. Immediately afterwards the road to Bellaggio diverges to the 1. 
 from the Lecco road, and passes through Longone, on the W. bank of the 
 narrow Lago del Segrino. Then Canzo ('Croce di Malta , the first house 
 on the 1. ; an agreeable liqueur, called Vei<petro, is manufactured at Canzo), 
 almost contiguous to As.<o, l',! M. beytmd. At the entrance of Asso is a 
 very extensive silk manufactory ( Casa Versa). 
 
 25*
 
 388 Route 99. MONZA. 
 
 The road now gradually ascends for a considerable distance in the- 
 j.icturesque valley of the Lambro^ the VaW Assina (see above), the slopes- 
 (if which are wel"l wooded; it passes through several villages. (2ii4 M.> 
 Lasnigo, & t M.) Barni. and Magreglio , where the ascent becomes more- 
 rapid:, first view of both arms of the Lake of Como from the eminence- 
 near the (lii4 M.) Chapel. 
 
 Delightful 'survey of the entire W. arm to Lecco and far beyond, from* 
 the rear of the first church of (V'n M.) Civenna , with its graceful tower. 
 The road now runs for 2^ ^ M. along the shady summit of the mountain which 
 extends into the lake at Bellaggio ; beyond the chapel the following striking 
 views are obtained : the W. arm of the lake (of Como) , the Tremezzina 
 with the Villa Carlotta and Cadenabbia (p. 383) . the E. arm (Lake of 
 I.ecco), a large portion of the road along the E. shore resting on masonry 
 and embankments . the entire lake from the promontory of Bellaggio to^ 
 I>omaso (p. 382). and the rising ground with the Scrbelloni park (p. 38i). 
 
 The road winds downwards for about 3 M. , passing the Villa Giulia 
 (p. 385) on the r.. and. ija M. from Bellaggio. the churchyard of that place. 
 From Civenna to the hotels at Bellaggio on the lake (p. 383) about 6 M.. 
 
 A pleasant circuit may be made by ascending the Monte S. Primo (5586') 
 from Canzo (in 4 — 5 hrs.; with guide), and descending thence to Bellaggio- 
 in 2' -.> hrs. Magnificent prospect from the summit. 
 
 99. From Como to Milan. 
 
 Railway (from Camerlata) in I' 4 hr., fares 5 fr. 45. 4 fr., 2 fr. 85 c. 
 
 The station for Como is at Camerlata (p. 366), 2 M. from 
 the quay (omnibus in 35 min., fare ^ fr.j. 
 
 The line at tirst traverses picturesque valleys, and intersects, 
 a plain in which maize, mulberry-trees, and vines are extensively 
 cultivated. Stations: Cucciago^ Camnago. Seregno. and Desio. 
 The hilly upland to the 1. is the fertile Brianza (p. 387) with 
 its numerous villas; the long, indented mountain is 3/oni€i?€S6^on€. 
 
 Monza (*Palazzo Reale; Falcone; *Albergo del Castello) has 
 a pop. of 15.587. The Cathedral, founded in 595 by a Lombard 
 queen, contains the 'Iron Crown (said to have been formed of 
 a nail of the true Cross , and richly adorned with gold and 
 jewels) of the Lombard kings . which was carried off by the 
 Austrians in 1859. but restored after the peace of 1866. The 
 present edifice dates from the 14th cent. The treasury (fee 1 fr.) 
 contains numerous valuable relics. The Broletto. or Town HalL 
 which dates from the 13th cent., is said to have formed a portion 
 of the palace of Frederick L and the Lombard kings. The park 
 of the 'Summer Palace' at Monza is picturesque and extensive. 
 
 Stat. Sesto. then 
 
 Milan. The station is outside the town II/2 M. from the 
 Porta Nuova. Omnibus, see below. 
 
 Hotels. 'Hotel d e 1 a A'^ i 1 1 e (PI. a), in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 
 opposite the Church of S. Carlo. R. 3. L. 1, D. 4, A. 1 fr. : Hotel Ca- 
 V o u r , Place Cavour : *Grand Hotel Royal (PI. b) . similar charges •, 
 Hotel Reichmann (PI. c) ; 'Gran Bretagna (PI. d) : Hotel de 
 Milan. Corsia del Giardino . R. 21(2- A. 1 fr. ; -Hotel de IE u rope 
 and 'P. oma. both in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele. — S. Marco. Bella 
 Venez ia (Piazza .S. Fedele) . ^Ancora. Pozzo. may be mentioned as 
 good 2nd cl. houses. Pension Suisse, commercial. 
 
 Restaurants, etc. Cova. with garden, by the Scala; *T rat tori a 
 d e 1 1 a B o r s a . Via S. Giu.eeppe : 'R e b e c c h i n o . not far from the cathe-
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 34)0 
 
 :b 
 
 M ■"" -. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 r
 
 MILAN. 09. Route. 389 
 
 •dral ; Isola Bella, by the triumphal arch, outside the town. — Cafe 
 Merlo (good ice), Corso Vitt. Emanuele; Biffi and 'Gnocchi, both in 
 the Galleria Vitt. Emanuele ; Birraria Nazionale. opp. the cathedral. 
 
 Fiacres (^Brourihams^ ) 7.5 c. per '■rorsa" of '-j hr., 1 fr. 25 c. from 1 to 
 6 a. m. Each article of luggage 25 c — From the station to the town 1 fr., 
 at night 1 fr. 25 c. 
 
 Omnibuses from the cathedral to the station (25 c.) and the different 
 gates (10 c. , at night 15 c.) , with the names of which they are inscril»ed. 
 
 Diligences ( Iinpresa Merzario, Via di S. Dalmazio , No. 2, near the 
 Scala) to Coire over the >Spliigen once daily in 25 hrs. (RR. 89, 88), over 
 the Bernardino once daily in 26', 2 hrs. (RR. 91, 88); to Lucerne twice daily 
 in 2Tii2 hrs. over the St. Ootthard (R. 23); to 8ion once daily in 39 hrs. 
 over the Simplon (R. 63). 
 
 Post Office (PI. 6S) near the cathedral, Via Rastrelli 4919 , open from 
 3 a. m. to 8 p. m. — Telegraph Office , near the Exchange , Piazza dei 
 Mercanti (PI. 69). 
 
 Theatres. Teatro della Scala (PI. 62), a spacious building, well fitted 
 up (the largest in Italy next to the theatre of S. Carlo at Naples). Opera 
 and ballet admirable ; performances in autumn and winter only. Cannobbiana, 
 •open during the Carnival only (PI. 63). *S'. Radegonda (PI. 66) , operas. 
 Carcdno (PL 64), chietly operas. Fassati and Ciniselli , popular theatres, 
 in the Piazza dArmi. 
 
 English Church Service. — Engl, physician. Dr. Walker, Of) Via <lella 
 Passerella, Ct)rso Vittorio Emanuele. 
 
 Milan (for a fuller description see Baedeker's X. Italy), the 
 •capital of Lombardy , and one of the wealthiest manufacturing 
 {principally silk) cities in Italy, is upwards of 9 M. in circum- 
 ference, ajid has a pop. of 214.517, excl. of the garrison. 
 
 The **Cathedral (V\. 19) . one of the largest churches in 
 Europe, decorated on the exterior with 98 Goth, turrets and 
 450 marble statues, was commenced in 1386 by Enrico Gamodia, 
 but remained in an unfinished state till its completion by Na- 
 poleon I. 
 
 In the S. transept a Monument to Giacorno and Gabriele Medici, by 
 Leoni , erected in 1.564 by Pope Pius IV. to the memory of his brothers. 
 "^Stained Glass windows in the choir. The ancient sarcophagus of porphyry, 
 which once contained the body of St. Dionysius , now serves as a Font. 
 The subterranean Cappella S. Carlo contains the tomb of St. Carlo Bor- 
 romeo, accessible in summer 5—10, in winter 7—10 a. m. ; at other times 
 for a fee of 1 fr. 
 
 The ascent (in the S.W. angle) of the 'Roof and Tower (ticket 20 c, 
 the stair ascends from the corner of the r. transept) is recommended, as 
 the visitor is thus enabled to inspect more closely the architecture of 
 the exterior: a noble prospect of the Alps and Apennines is also obtained. 
 
 The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, a handsome arcade. . con- 
 taining a succession of brilliant shops . and decorated with 24 
 statues of celebrated Italians, connects the Piazza del Duomo with 
 the Scala. 
 
 Of the remaining 80 churches of Milan, the following are 
 the most interesting. *S. Ambrogio (PI. 7), founded by St. 
 Ambrose in the 4th cent., ereoteil in the 12th cent., contains an 
 'Ecce homo' by Luini. and several ancient monuments. *S. Maria 
 delle Grazie (PI. 22) dates from the 15th cent. The refectory 
 oft he monastery contains Leonardo da Vinci's celebrated **/>e.^<?o 
 of the Last Supper, now almost obliterated. In tne church, 
 pictures by Ferrari. Luini. etc. *S. Lorenzo (_P1. 18) once formed
 
 390 Route 99. MILAN. 
 
 a portion of an ancient Roman palace : the isolated ^Colonnade 
 is supported by 16 Corinthian pillars. Good music on Sunday 
 morninofs. 
 
 The *Brera (PI. 50; open daily 9—3, Sund. 12—3 o'clock) 
 contains the Library of the Academy, Casts of Antiques, and a 
 * Picture Gallery. 
 
 E n 1 1- a n c e - R m s. Frescoes by Luini, Ferrari, Bramantino, etc. ; 
 36. The Virgin with St. Antony and St". Barbara, by Luini; 50. Adoratioii 
 of the Magi, by Ferrari. — Room I.: 6. St. Hieronymus, by Titian; 18. 
 The Virgin with saints. Domenichino. — II. : 00 o8. Annunciation, Timoteo 
 Vite da Urhino; 61. Marriage at Cana. Paolo Veronese. — III.: 90. Sermon 
 of St. Mark, Gentile Bellini. — IV. 136. Portrait, Van Duck; three portraits 
 by Lotto. — VI. : 208. Madonna and saints, Moretto. — VII. : 214. Abraham 
 and Hagar. Guercino; '230. 3Iarriage of the Virgin, the celebrated 'Spo- 
 .<alizio\ by Raphael; 416. Sketch of the head of Christ from Leon, da 
 Vinci's Last Supper. — IX. : 279. Virgin and Child, Sassoferrato. — X. : 332. 
 Landscape and hermits, Salv. Rosa. — XL : 343. Martj-rdom of St. Catherine, 
 Gaud. Fe rari. — XII. : Modern pictures. 
 
 The celebrated ^Biblioteca Ambrosiana (PI 3). open 10—3 
 o'clock (fee to attendant 1 fr. ; picture gallery 1 fr., on Wed. 
 10 — '21 /'.7 o'clock gratis), founded in 1525 by Federigo Borromeo, 
 contains" 60.000 vols, and 15.000 MSS. 
 
 'Codice Atlantico', i. e. the original drawings and autographs of Leon, 
 da Vinci : Virgil with marginal notes by Petrarch ; letters of Cardinal Bor- 
 romeo. Tasso. Galilei, etc. — Cartoons of Raphael, Michael Angelo. etc. 
 
 The ^Ospedale Maggiore (PI. 46). commenced in 1457, is 
 a hospital of the most spacious dimensions, and contains 9 dif- 
 ferent courts. — The Castello . once the residence of the Yis- 
 conti and Sforza families, is now employed as barracks. On the 
 extensive esplanade ^Piazza d'Armi) in the rear of the building, 
 is situated the Arena, a species of circus, with accommodation 
 for 30,000 pers., founded by Napoleon I. (fee 1 fr.). 
 
 On the N.W. side of the Piazza d'Arm.i is the *Arco della 
 Pace (PI. 1), a triumphal arch of marble, founded by Napoleon 
 in 1804 by way of termination to the Simplon-road, completed 
 in 1838. Recent inscriptions commemorate the emancipation of 
 Italy through the instrumentality of Victor Emmanuel II. and 
 Napoleon III. The numerous reliefs represent the successes of 
 the Austrian arms against Napoleon I. 
 
 The Giardini Pubblici (PI. 41") affor'd a pleasant promenade, 
 much frequented on Sunday afternoons. 
 
 At the entrance to the new Giardino (at the Porta Nuova) 
 is a Statue of Cavour in bronze, erected in 1865. Near it the 
 Museo Civico. containing nat. hist, collections (open to the public 
 on Thursdays; and on Tuesd.. Wed., and Sat. 11—3. adm. ^/ofr-)-
 
 Index. 
 
 Aa , the Engelberger 85. 
 13U. 
 
 — Molcli- 89. 
 
 — Sarner- 89. 
 
 — Stfiner- 300. 
 Aadcrf 35. 
 Aarau 15. 
 Aarl>erg 7. 163. 
 Aarberger Moos, the 163. 
 Aarburg 9. 
 
 Aarburg, castle 8. 
 Aare, the 7. 9. 10._ etc. 
 Aareboden. the 135. 
 Aare Glaciers, the 134. 
 Aarmxihle, village 104. 
 Aathal 41. 
 
 S. Abbondio on the lake 
 of Come 382. 
 
 — near Lugano 368. 
 Abendberg, the 109. 
 Ablantschen 153. 
 Achenbriicke , the. near 
 
 Alpnach 88. 
 Achselberg. the 71. 
 Achslenstock. the 71. 
 Achtelsaa'^bache, the 129. 
 Acletta 76. 310. 
 Acqua, hospice air 139. 
 Acqua di Stoll 361. 
 
 — Hossa 313. 
 
 Adda, the 341. 342. 360. 
 
 etc. 
 Adclboden 145. 
 Adige ?. Etsch. 
 Adlcrberg. the 349. 
 Adler Pass, the 265. 
 Adlischwvl 33. 
 St. Adrieh 47. 
 Ada. Piz d^ 318. 
 Aden s. Ai-le. 
 Aerlenbach, the 133. 
 Aesch 5. 
 
 — , the Aelpli 296. 
 Aeschi 109. 145. 
 Aengst 32. 
 
 Aexigster Berg, the 32. 
 Acuseere Thinin. the 265. 
 Airolttrn 32. 
 
 Agagliouls 334. 
 Agassizhorn, the 134. 
 St. Agata 371. 
 Agauiiina 201. 
 Agno 380. 
 Agmus 346. 
 Aigle 200. 
 
 Aiguille- Verte 220. 224. 
 Aiguilles-Rouges 220. 
 Aimaville, Castle of 234 
 Airolo 81. 
 Aix-les-Bains 209. 
 St. Akleta, chapel 310. 
 Alagna 378. 
 Albbruck 18. 
 Albens 209. 
 Alberschwende 351. 
 Albertville 211. 
 Albesio 387. 
 Albeuve 158. 
 Albiana. the 361. 
 Albigna Glacier 362. 
 Albinen 149. 
 Albi?. the 33. 
 Albis Hochwacht, the 33 
 Albisbruvin, bath 33. 
 Aibogasio 380. 
 Albrun Pass, the 140. 
 Albula. the 318. 323. 
 Albulahorn. the 336. 
 Albula Pass, the 321. 
 Albulastock, the 319. 
 Aldez. chalets 311. 
 AIet>ch Glacier, the 141 
 Aletschhom, the 141. 
 Alfensbach, the 349. 
 Algabi 259. 
 
 — gallerv 259. 
 
 All" Acquii, Hospice 139 
 Alia Chiesa 143. 
 Allee. Alp V 248. 
 
 — Blanche 231. 
 Allalin Glacier 265. 
 Allalinhorn, the 265. 266 
 Allalin Pass, the 265. 
 Allaman 175. 191. 
 Allemandes. les 207. 
 Allensbach 20. 
 
 Allenwinden 50. 
 
 Alliaz. Bains de V 195. 
 
 Allieres 158. 
 
 Allinges, les 205. 
 
 Allmann Chain, the 298. 
 
 Allvveg 88. 
 
 Almagell 266. 
 
 Almendhubel, the 112. 
 
 Almengrat, the 145. 
 , Alpbach . the, near Ein- 
 ; sicdeln 298. 
 
 — the, nearJIeiringen 124. 
 
 Alpetli Glacier 146. 252. 
 
 Alphubeljoch, the 266. 
 
 Alpigeln 116. 
 
 Alpnach 89. 
 
 Alpnach-Gestad 88. 
 
 Alpnach, Lake of 88. 
 
 Alpnoverstock 297. 
 
 Al Pont 143. 
 
 Alpstein Chain, the 280. 
 
 Alpthal 56. 298. 300. 
 
 Alserio. Lago d' 387. 
 
 Altels. the 147. 
 
 Altenalp 282. 
 
 Altendorf 41. 
 
 Altenorenalp, the 76. 
 
 Alf-Hohencmbs 351. 
 
 Alt-St. Johann 291. 
 'Altmann. the 278. 
 
 Alt matt 300. 
 
 Alfnau 23. 
 
 Altorf 74. 
 , Altstad. isle 49. 69. 
 
 Altstadten 283. 
 
 Altstaflel 142. 
 
 Altstetten 17. 32. 
 
 Alun. Piz 287. 
 lAlvaschein 323. 354. 
 
 Alveneu 318. 
 '— Bad 320. 
 
 Alvra. the 318. 
 
 JAm Lech 352. 
 
 [— Platz , Davos, or St. 
 
 ■ Johann 317. 
 
 I . Klosters 316. 
 
 !— Senk 259. 
 !— Stein 131.
 
 392 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Amalia, Villa 387. 
 Ambri 82. 
 Ambiihl 131. 
 Amden (Ammon) 44. 
 Ammertenhorn, the 151. 
 Amphion, Bath 205. 
 Amrisvvyl 34. 
 Amsolclingen 101. 
 Am3tag 75. 
 Andeer 3.56. 
 Andelfingen 26. 
 Andermatt 79. 
 Andermatten 143. 
 Anet 163. 
 
 Angenstein, Castle of 5. 
 Angera 374. 
 Anieres 204. 
 Annaberg, the 79. 
 St. Anna, Chapel, in the 
 Schachenthal 297. 
 
 — near Trons 309. 
 
 St. Anna, castle of 37. 
 Anneciacum 212. 
 Annecv 212. 
 — , Lac d^ 212. 
 Annemasse 214. 
 Anniviers, Val d' 247. 
 Annone, Lago d' 387. 
 Anterne, Col d' 221. 
 Antigorio, Val 144. 
 St. Anton , on the Arl- 
 
 berg 349. 
 Antongina, Villa 385. 
 St. Antony, chapel 76. 278. 
 St. Antonier Joch , the 
 
 350. 
 St. Antonio, near Bormio 
 
 343. 
 
 — in the Puschlav 341. 
 
 — Cantoniera 81. 
 Antrona Piano 261. 
 
 — Vallev, the 261. 
 Anza, the 262. 
 Anza,sca Valley, the 262. 
 Anzeindaz 243. 
 
 Aosta 240. 
 Appenzoll 279. 
 
 — the canton 276. 
 
 — Ausser-Rhoden 276. 
 
 — Inner-Rhoden 276. 
 Aprica, Passo d' 342. 
 Aquae 17. 
 
 Aquae Allohrogum or 
 
 — Gratianae 209. 
 Aquila or 
 Aqnileja 200. 
 Arbedo 83. 364. 
 Arben Glacier, the 249. 
 Arbignon 149. 
 
 Arbon 23. 
 Ai'hor Felix 23. 
 Arc, the 211. 
 
 \Ardea 337. 
 lArdetz 338. 
 lArdon 254. 
 Argegno 385. 
 I Argent, Castle of 234. 
 jArgentiere 224. 
 I— ,'Glacier d^ 218. 
 Argentine, the 243. ; 
 
 Arias, Piz d' 340. 
 lArlberg, the 349. 
 Arlesheim 5. 
 Arly, the 211. 
 Armeno 376. 
 Arola 377. 
 
 Arolla, Glacier de T 246. 
 — , Val 246. 
 Arona 374. 
 Arondine. the 211. 
 Arpenaz, Case, d' 215. 
 Arpitetta, Alp 249. 
 lArth 48. 
 
 iArve, the 179. 218. etc. 
 lArveiron, Source of the 
 
 221. 
 Arveves 156. 
 Arvier 234. 
 Arzinol, Pic d" 246. 
 Aschera, Convent 322. 
 Ascona 371. 
 Assa. Val d' 339. 
 Assina, Valle 388. 
 'Asso 387. 
 Attinghausen 75. 
 Au, in the Bregenzer 
 
 Wald 351. 
 — , Convent near Ein- 
 
 siedeln 300. 
 — , Fideriser 315. 
 — , in the Rhine Vallevi 
 
 283 
 — , lake of Zurich 39. 
 Auberg, the Grosse 41. 
 St. Aubin 174. 
 'Aubonne 175. 191. i 
 
 — , the 190. ' 
 
 Au Devant 154. 
 Aueli Alp, the 295. 
 Auengiiter 76. 294. 
 Auf der Burg 302. 
 
 — dem Felsen 274. i 
 
 — den Platten 274. 
 
 — der Fluh, castle 142. 
 
 — der Frut 143. 
 
 — der Rive 263. 
 lAugst, Basel- 1. 18. 
 'Augstbord Pass, the 251.* 
 Augstenberg, the 338. 
 Augstkummen Matt , the! 
 
 272. 1 
 
 Augstmatthorn , the 109.' 
 \ Augusta Praetoria SalasA 
 ! sorum 240. 
 
 Augusta Rauracorum 118. 
 Ausserbinn 140. 
 Auvernier 170. 173. 
 Avant, En 158. 
 Avenches 165. 
 Avencon, the 201. 243. 
 Avent 244. 
 
 Arenticensis^ lacvs 164. 
 Aventicum 165. 
 Aventina 379. 
 Averser-Rhein, the 356. 
 
 — Thai, the 357. 
 Avigna, Val 333. 
 Avise 234. 
 Avril, Mont 242- 
 Axenberg, the, or 
 Axenfluh, the 72. 
 Axenstein 71. 
 Axenstrasse, the 73. 
 Ay, la Tour A" 155. 158. 
 Avas 275. 
 
 Avent 152. 
 Aver 248. 
 
 Averne, Roc d" 207. 
 Azi, Mont d^ 210. 
 
 Baar 47. 
 
 Baarer Boden, the 32. 47. 
 Bachalp, the 120. 
 — , lake of 120. 
 Bachigut, the 101. 
 Bachimatt, the 101. 
 Bachistock, the 304. 
 Bachtel, the 42. 
 Bachtelen 98. 
 Baden in the Aargau IS. 
 Badermoos, the 153. 
 Badus, the 79. 
 Bagne, Val de 242. 
 Balbianello, Villa 385. 
 Baldegg. Lake of 63. 
 Baldenstein, Castle 319. 
 
 3^54. 
 Bale 1. 
 Balen 267. ^ 
 Balerna 366. 
 Balferin, the 257. 267. 
 Ballaigues 177. 
 Balliswvl 160. 
 Balma, la 230. 
 Balme 214. 
 
 — Aig. de 228. 
 
 — Col de 227. 
 
 Balm Glacier, the 259. 
 Balmhorn, the 147. 
 Balmuccia 378. 
 Balmwald 76. 
 Balmwand, the 296. 
 Bandlikon 39. 
 Bannio 263. 
 Bannwald, the 74. 
 Baradello, Castello 366.
 
 INEEX. 
 
 393 
 
 Barberine, the 225. 
 Barenburg, ruin 357. 
 Barenegg, the 118. 
 Barma, la 202. 
 Barmaz, la 230. 
 Barni 388. 
 Baro, Monte 386. 
 Barr Glacier, the 250. 
 Barrhorn, the 2.50. 
 Barschi.? 45. 
 St. Barthelemv, Chapel 
 
 246. 
 Ba3-Chatillon 256. 
 Basel s. Bale. 
 Basel-Augst 18. 
 Basilea 1. 
 Basodino, Piz 80. 
 Basset, le 196. 
 Batiaz, La, castle 203. 
 Batie, castle 210. 
 Bauchlen, the 95. 
 Bauen 72. 
 
 Baumgarten Alp, the 295. 
 Baveno 261. 373. 
 Baverbach, the 43. 44. 
 Beatenberg 104. 108. 
 Beatenhohle, the 104. 107. 
 Beaufort, Vallee de 211. 
 Beaulmes, Aig. de 175. 
 Beauregard, castle 170. 
 Becca di Nona, the 241. 
 Beckenried 70. 
 Bees de Bosson, the 247. 
 Bedrotto 140. 
 — , Val 140. 
 Bei der Bnicke 316. 
 Beichgrat, the 142. 
 Belfort, ruin 319. 
 Belgirate 374. 
 Bellaggio 3a3. 
 Bellaluna, iron-w. 320. 
 Bellano 382. 
 Bellarma 380. 
 Bellavista Pass , the 335. 
 Bella Tola, the 250. 
 Belle Alpe 141. 257. 
 Bellegarde on the Rhone 
 
 208. 
 Bellenhochst 109. 
 Bellenkilchen 109. 
 Bellenz 83. 
 
 Bellerive on the Birs 5. 
 — on the lake of Geneva 
 
 204. 
 Belle vue. Pavilion dc 229. 
 Bellinzona 83. 
 Bel Oiseau, the 225. 
 Belotte 188. 
 Belpberg the 99. 
 Ben ken 42. 
 Beonbach, the 10. 
 Be'rard, Vallee de 222. 225. 
 
 Bergamo 386. 
 Bergelbach, the 121. 
 Bergeil. the Valley of 360, 
 Bergerie, la 190. " 
 Berglistock, the 311. 
 Bergue, la 187. 
 Berg.in 321. 
 
 Borguner Stein, the 320. Binn 140. 
 Beringcn 19. iBionaz 246. 
 
 Berisal 258. iBionnassav 229. 
 
 Bern 92. — Glacier de 229. 
 
 |St. Bernard, the Great Bionnav 229. 
 
 Bies Glacier, the 268. 
 Bietschhijrner, the 256. 
 Bifertenbach, the 294. 
 Biferten Glacier 294. 
 — Stock, the 294. 
 Bignasco 144. 370. 
 Billodes, les 169. 
 
 379. 
 
 237. 
 
 , the Little 234. 
 , chapel 244. 
 Bernardino 363. 
 mount 363. 
 j — river 372. 
 
 Bernegg, the 36. 
 [Bernetsmatt 78. 
 jBernina. the 331. 
 !— , hou.ses of 339. 
 :— , Pass, the 340. 
 I—, Piz 331. 
 
 Berninabach, the 330. 331 
 iBeroldingen, castle 72. 
 
 Berthoud 13. 
 
 Beschluss, the 287. 
 
 Be.sso, the 248. 
 
 Besson 244. 
 
 Betschwanden 294. 
 
 Betta, Furca di 275. 
 
 Bettelmatt 143. 
 
 Bettenalp, the 141. 
 
 Betttluh, the 10*2. 
 
 Beuggen 18. 
 
 Bevaix 174. 
 
 Beverin, Piz 3.56. 
 
 Bevers 335. 
 I—, vallev of 329. 
 
 Bevieux 201. 
 iBevilard 6. 
 :Bex 201. 
 
 Bianca Vallev, the 263 
 iBianci, Villa' 380. 
 I Bianco, Pizzo 264 
 
 Biandrone 
 iBiasca 83. 
 iBiber, the 298. 
 iBiberbruck 298 
 
 Bibereg- 300. 
 iBiberen 164. 
 
 Biberlikopf, the 43._ 
 [Biberstein, castle 15. 
 
 Bideneck, castle 348. 
 
 Bied, chateau 173. 
 
 Bied, the 169. 
 
 Biel in the Canton 
 Bern 7. 
 
 — in the Valais 140. 
 
 Bienne 7. 
 
 — , the Lake of 9. 
 
 ■Birmensdorf 32. 
 
 Bironico 365. 
 
 Birrenhorn, the 146. 
 JBirs, the 5. 6. 
 
 Birseck, castle 5. 
 iBisbino, Monte 385. 
 iBischofsstock, the 295. 
 iBise, Cornettes de 206. 
 
 Bisithal, the 303. 
 jBissone 365. 
 iBivio 324. 
 |Bivio di Prad 346. 
 
 Bivitim 324. 
 
 Blackenstock, the 87. 
 
 St. Blaise 10. 164. 172. 
 
 Blanc, Mont 223. 
 
 Blanchard, the 206. 
 
 Blankenburg , castle of 
 154. 
 
 St. Blasien 19. 
 
 Blatten, castle 283. 
 
 Blaue Gletscher, the 121. 
 
 Blegno Vallev, the 313. 
 
 Bleicki, the lower 107. 
 
 Bletiere, Aig. de 219. 
 
 Blitzingon 140. 
 
 Blonav near Vevav 195. 
 
 — near Evian 205". 
 
 Blove 209. 
 
 Bludenz 350. 
 [Blue Lake, the 146. 
 
 Blumalp, the 68. 
 iBlumcnstein, bath 101. 
 JBliimlisalp, the 146. 
 Lago di 376. — Glacier, the 146. 
 iBocca 26:3. 
 
 iBoccareccio, Passo del 
 141. 
 
 Boccioletto 378. 
 
 Bochard, Aig. du 219. 
 
 Bocktschingel, the 76. 
 
 Bodeli, the 105. 
 
 Bodenalp, the 109. 
 
 Boden.see, the 21. 
 
 Bodio 83. 
 of Bodmer, castle 284. 
 
 Boo-e 187. 
 
 Bueuf, Pas du 250. 
 
 Bohlegg, the 109. 
 
 Bois, les 221. 
 
 300.
 
 394 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Bois, Glacier des 218. 221 
 Bokken 39. 
 Boletto 377. 
 Bolladore 343. 
 Braiigen 97. 
 Bollingen 42. 
 Boltigen 153. 
 Bon-Xant. the 215. 230. 
 Bonaduz 307. 353. 
 Bonavaux 208. 
 Bondasca. the 361. 
 Bonder-C'hrinne. the 145 
 Bondo 361. 
 — . Alp 334. 
 Bonhomme. Col de 231. 
 Bonigen 104. 107. 
 Bonnefemme. la 231. 
 Bonneville 214. 
 Bons 187. 
 
 Borgne, the 245. 255. 
 Borgnone 370. 
 Borgo-Sesia 378. 
 — Vico 366. 386. 
 Borgomanero 378. 
 Borgo nuovo 361. 
 Bormio 343. 
 Borne?, Mont des 213. 
 Bornuv 361. 
 
 Borromean Islands 373. 
 Borterhorn. the 250. 
 Bosjilgau, Alp 109. 
 Bosco^l44. 
 Bosenstein. the 110. 
 Bosquet de Julie 196. 
 Bosson, Bees de 247. 
 Bossons. glacier des 216. 
 — . les 216. 
 Botiggia. Col di 378. 
 Bottarello. Pizzo di 376. 
 B(itzlingen 75. 
 Bone, the Trouma de 242. 
 Boudevillers 168. 
 Eoudrv 173. 
 Bougv 191. 
 — . signal de 191. 
 Bourdeaux 209. 
 Bourg St. Maurice 234. 
 Bourget. lac du 209. 
 Boursillon 160. 
 Boussine. Tour de 242. 
 Bouveret 206. 
 Boval 333. 335. 
 Boveresse 171. 
 Bovernier 235. 
 Bozen 247. 
 Bozinser Hcihe 7. 
 Brail 336. 
 
 Brajean, chalets de 244. 
 Bramherg. the 159. 
 Bramegg. the 91. 
 Brand 350. 
 Brand, im 107. 
 
 .iBrandlisegg. the 1U8. 
 
 Brandner-Ferner 350. 
 
 Brassus. le 176. 
 
 Bratz 349. 
 
 Brauglio. the 344. 
 
 Braunwaldherg. the 294. 
 
 Bravuogn 321. 
 
 Bre 368. 
 
 — . Monte 368. 
 
 Bredaggio 313. 
 
 Bregaglia. Yal 360. 
 . Bregenz 351. 
 
 Bregenzer Ach, the 351. 
 
 — itlause. the '351. 
 
 — Wald. the 351. 
 Breitenboden. Alp 121. 
 Breithorn . the . in the 
 
 Bernese Alps HI. 
 
 — near Zermatt 274. 275. Buchs 283. 
 — . the Ltitschthaler 142. Buet. the 222 
 
 Briilltobel. the 282. 
 Bruneckhorn , the 250. 
 
 267. 
 Brianig 90. 
 Brunnen 71. 
 — . the Sieben 151. 
 Brunni Pass, the 76. 310. 
 Brunnithal, the 76. 297. 
 
 310. 
 Briis or Briisch 341. 
 Brusio 341. 
 Brusson 378. 
 Bubenberg 156. 
 Bubikon 42. 
 Buchberg . the . in the 
 
 Rhine valley 282. 
 — on the Lintii-Canal 42. 
 Buchenthal 35. 
 
 — Glacier, the 251. 
 Breitlauenen Alp 108. 
 Brenet. lac 177. 
 Brenets. les 169. 
 Breney, glac. de 242. 
 Brenlaire. the 159. 
 Brennet 18. 
 Brenno. the 83. 
 Brenva.' glac. de 232. 
 
 Burtalorabach, the 364. 
 Buiialorapass, the 337. 
 Biihlbach. the 108. 
 Biihlenstock, the 138. 
 Biihler 281. 
 Biilach 32. 
 Buisme, the 228. 
 Bulle 157. 
 Bills. Alp 45. 
 
 Breona. Couronne de 246. Biimplitz 159. 
 
 Brestenberg 15. 
 Breuil. le 269. 
 Brevent. the 221. 
 — . the Col du 221. 
 Brezon. the 214. 
 Brianza. the 387. 
 Bricolla. Alp 246. 
 Brieg 257. 
 Brienno 385. 
 
 Bunderbach 146. 
 Buntschi 153. 
 Buochs 69. 
 — . lake of 69. 
 Buochser Horn, the 85. 
 Burg 6. 
 Burg, the 120. 
 Burgdorf 13. 
 Burgeis 346. 
 
 Brienz in the canton of Biirgenberg or Biirgen- 
 
 Bern 125 
 — in Grisons 319. 
 — . lake of 126. 
 Brienzer Grat. the 125. 
 Brienzwyler 91. 
 Brigantia 351. 
 Brigantinus, lacus 21. 
 Brigelser Horn, the 353. Bussalp. the 120 
 St. Brigitta. chapel of 311. Bussigny 175. 
 
 stock, the 69. 88. 
 Burgflu'h, the 101. 
 Burgistein 101. 
 Biirglen (Obwalden) 90. 
 Biiriilen (Thurgau) 34. 
 — (Uri) 74. 
 Burvein 323. 
 
 Brisi. the 43. 
 Brissago 371. 
 Bristen 76. 310. 
 Bristenstock. the 77. 
 Broc 153. 
 Brocard 235- 
 Brothausi 153. 
 Brove. the 162. 
 Bruck 16. 
 Brugg 16. 
 Briigg 7. 
 Bruggen 35. 
 Briillisau 280. 
 
 164. 
 
 Busswvl 7. 
 Bustigeln 116. 
 Busto Arsizio 375. 
 Biitscheleck 98. 
 Buttier. the 240. 
 Biittlassen. the. or 
 Biittlosa. the li3. 
 Biitzberg 9. 
 
 Cabbiolo 264. 
 Cadempino 365. 
 Cadenabbia 383. 
 Cadenazzo 369.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 395 
 
 Caille . la . chain bridge 
 
 213. 
 Caillet, spring 219. 
 Calanda. the 285. 
 Calasca 262. 
 Calcaccia. the 82. 
 Calderara. Villa 382. 
 Calolzio 386. 
 Calmot, the 311. 
 Calvaggione. Monte 366. 
 Cama 364. 
 
 Camana Alp. the 307. 
 Cambrena, Piz 333. 340. 
 
 — Glacier, the 333. 340. 
 
 — Pass, the 335. 
 C'amerlata 366. 388. 
 Camischolas 311. 
 Camnago 387. 388. 
 Camogasc 336. 
 Camoghe, Monte 365. 
 Camonica, Valle 342. 
 Campascio. Corno di 340. 
 Camperio. Hospice 313. 
 Campler 328. 
 
 — Lake of 328. 
 Campi. ruined castle 319. 
 
 354. 
 Campiole 263. 
 Campo 385. 
 
 — Culogno 341, 
 
 — Dolcino 359. 
 — . Valle di 340. 
 Campolungo, Alp 370. 
 Campovasto 336. 
 Camscha, in 143. 
 Canaria Vallev, the 81, 
 Canciana Pass, the 327. 
 Caniciil 356. 
 Canities, ruins 339. 
 Cannero 372. 
 
 — Castelli di 372. 
 Canobbio 371. 
 Canova. castle 353. 
 Cantun. Cima di 327. 
 Canzo 387. 
 
 — . the Corni di 387. 
 Capella 317. 336. 
 Capolago 365. 
 Caprino, Monte 368. 
 Carasso, Monte 369. 
 Carate 385. 387. 
 Carcoforo 378. 
 Cardinell. gorge 358. 
 Careno 385. 
 Carlotta. Villa 383. 
 Carona 368. 
 Carouge 213. 
 Carrera 307. 
 Carsaniga 387. 
 Casa dei Pagani 81. 
 Casaccia on the Maloja 
 362. 
 
 Casaccia, Hospice on the 
 Lukmanier 313. 
 
 Casanna. Val 336. 
 Cas^atsch 362. 
 jCassano 387. 
 iCassina 366. 
 jCastagnola 380. 
 Castascgna 361. 
 Castelberg. castle 309. 
 Castellatsch, castle 356. 
 Castelmur, ruin 361. 
 Castels 315. 
 I Castor, the 273. 
 Castra Raetica 44. 
 Castril. Cima di 327. 
 S. Catcrina, bath 343. 
 Catogne, Mont 163. 235. 
 Catscharauls, the 310. 
 Cau, Mont 197. 
 Cavaglia 340. 
 Cavagliasco, the 340. 
 Cavlueoio Lake, the 327. 
 Cazzanore 387. 
 Cebbia 364. 
 Celerina 330. 
 Celigny 175. 
 Cenere, Monte 365. 
 Cenis, Mont 211. 
 Centovalli. Valley 370. 
 Centrale, Pizzo 80. 
 Ceppina 343. 
 Ceppo Morelli 263. 
 Ceresio. Lago 380. 
 St. Cergues 190. 
 jCerlier 10. 
 [Cerniat 153. 
 'Cervin, Mont 273. 
 Cevedale, Monte 345. 
 Cevio 370. 
 Chablais. the 205. 
 Chables 242. 
 Chailly 159. 196. 
 Chaine. la 171. 
 Chaise, the 211. 
 Chalcagn. Piz 334. 
 Challant, Val de 275. 
 Cham 33. 47. 
 Chambave 270. 
 Chambery 210. 
 |Chambesv 175. 
 IChambreiien 168. 
 Chamois, Uent dc 154. 
 Chamouix 216. 
 Chamossaire, the 156.200. 
 Chamounv 216. 
 — . Valley of 218. 
 Chamousset 211. 
 Champel 229. 
 — . the 185. 
 Champery 207. 
 Champey, Lac de 235. 
 Champsec 242. 
 
 Chancy 206. 
 Chandolin 156. 248, 
 Chanelaz 170. 
 Chapeau, the 219, 
 Chapieu.x, les, or 
 Chapiu 231. 
 Chaputschiu Pass , the 
 
 335. 
 Chapiitschin, Piz 334. 
 Chardonnet, Aig. du 224. 
 Charles-Albert, Pont 213. 
 Charlottenfel.«, castle 25, 
 Charmettes, les 210. 
 Charmey 153. 
 Charmontel, Mont 164. 
 Charmoz, Aig.de 219. 227, 
 Charne.K s. Chernex. 
 Charreire, Defile de 236, 
 Chasseral, the 10. 166. 
 Chasseron, the 173. 
 Chaste in the Oberhalb- 
 
 stein 323. 
 
 — on the Lake of Sils 328. 
 Chat, Mont du 209. 
 Chateau Duing 212. 
 
 — 3Ienthon 212. 
 
 — dOex 154. 
 
 — de Pierre 214, 
 Chatel 153. 
 
 Chatel St. Denis 157. 
 Chatelard, castle 195. 196. 
 Chatelet 155. 
 Chatillon in the Aosta 
 valley 270. 
 
 — in the valley of the 
 Arve 214. 
 
 — on the Lac du Bourget 
 209. 
 
 — , Bas- 256. 
 Chaudron, Gorge du 197, 
 Chaulin 197. 
 Chanmont, the 167. 
 Chaux-de-Fonds. La 169. 
 
 — du Milieu, La 170. 
 Chavannc 9. 
 Chavans en haut 227. 
 Chavornav 175. 
 Chcde 2l6. 
 Checino 376. 
 Cheires 172. 
 Chemin, Mont 235. 
 Chonaletta, the 239. 
 Chene 214. 
 Cheran, the 210. 
 Chorasca. Val 141. 
 Chermignon 149. 
 Chermontane, Glacier de 
 
 242. 245. 
 — , chalets de 242. 
 — . col de 242. 247, 
 Chernex 159. 196. 
 Chesieres 200.
 
 396 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Chessalle Eck, the 153. 
 Chessel 206. 
 Cheville, Col de 243. 
 — , Chalets de 243. 
 Chevres, Pas de 247. 
 Chexbres 162. 163. 
 — , Signal de 163. 
 Chiampatsch, Piz 338. 
 Chiamuera. Val 336. 
 Chiamut 311. 
 Chiasso 366. 
 — , Ponte 366. 
 Chiavenna 359. 
 Chiesa 3'27. 
 Chiesa. alia 143. 
 
 — rossa, the 364. 
 Chignin, castle 210. 
 Chillon, castle 197. 
 Chilnaux, castle 172. 
 Chippis 248. 
 Chirel, the 150. 
 Chougny 186. 
 Chrinne, the Bonder 145. 
 Chrinnen, the 151. 
 
 St. Christoph , Hospice 
 
 349. 
 Chur 288. 
 
 Churburg, castle 346. 
 Churfirsten, the 43. 
 Churvvaldeu 322. 
 Cierfs 338. 
 Cigognier, le 165. 
 Cima 380. 
 
 — da Fex 332. 
 
 — di Jazi 274. 
 
 — di Roffel 275. 
 Cimes Blanches, Col des 
 
 275. 379. 
 Cinuschel 336. 
 Ciraun 356. 
 Cisano 386. 
 Civenna 388. 
 Civiasco 377. 
 Civiias VaUetisium 203. 
 Claino 380. 
 Clarens 196. 
 Clariden. the 76. 296. 
 Claridengrat, the 76. 
 Claridenstock, the 76. 
 Claro 83. i 
 
 Clavadel 317. ' 
 
 Clavenna 359. 
 Claven and 
 Clefen s. Chiavenna. 
 Cliina, Piz 338. 
 Cluse, La, near Aosta 240. 
 
 — near Pontarlier 171. 
 Cluses 214. 
 
 Coblenz s. Koblenz. 
 Codelago. lake of 140. 
 Coire 288. 
 Colico 360. 
 
 Collonge 204. 
 Collonges 208. 
 Colma, Col di 377. 
 Colobiano, Villa 385. 
 Cologny 186. 204. 
 Colombano, Monte 344. 
 Colombey 200. 206. 
 Colombier 173. 
 — , the 209. 
 Colon, Col de 246. 
 — , Mont 246. 
 Colonges 197 
 
 iCouvet 171. 
 jCouz, Col de 207. 
 iCramont, the 233. 
 iCrap Alv 321. 
 ,i Credo, Tunnel du 208. 
 iCremeo 364. 
 'Cremia 382. 
 Cremine 6. 
 ICremusina, the 83. 
 |Crepin, cascade de 215. 
 'Cresciano 83. 
 Cresogno 380. 
 
 Colonia Julia equestris idO. Cressier 10. 
 
 Coltura 361. 
 Comabbio, Lago di 376. 
 Comacina, Isola 385. 
 Combal, Lake of 232. 
 Comballaz 155. 
 Combe, Fond de la 222. 
 Combin, the Grand 237. 
 Combloux 212. 
 Como 386. 
 — , Lake of 381. 
 Concise 174. 
 Confinale, Monte 343. 
 Conflans 211. 
 Constance 21. 
 — , Lake of 21. 
 Contamines, les 230. 
 Con famines sur Arve 214. 
 Conters 320. 323. 
 Conto, Monte 360. 
 Conthev 244. 254. 
 Convers, les 168. 
 Conversion, la 162. 
 Coppet 189. 
 Corbario, Castello 84. 
 Corbassiere, glac. de 242. 
 
 Cresta in the Avers. Thai 
 356. 
 
 — in the Engadine 330. 
 
 — Agiuza 335. 
 Cresta mora 336. 
 Crestatsch, ruined castle 
 
 309. 
 Cresus 15^3. 
 Crete, La 245. 
 Crete seche, Col de 242. 
 Cretes, les 196. 
 Creux du Vent, the 171. 
 
 173. 
 
 — de Champ, the 155. 
 Crevin 187. 
 
 Crevola 144. 
 — , Gallery of 260. 
 Cret, Col du 242. 
 Cribiaschina, the 82. 
 Crin 144. 
 Crispalt, the 311. 
 Crispausa 311. 
 Cristallina, Piz 313. 
 Cristallinenthal, the 313. 
 Cristallo. Monte 344. 345. 
 
 iCorcelles, near IS'euchatel.S. Croce 380. 
 
 168. 
 — , near Grandson 174. 
 Corciago 261. 
 Corenno 382. 
 Cornaux 10. 
 Cornet, le 6. 
 Cornettes de Bise 206. 
 Cornier, the 248. 
 Corno, Val 143. 
 
 Crocione, Monte 384. 
 Crodo 144. 
 Ste Croix 173. 
 : Croix de fer, the 228. 
 ; Croix, Pas de la 156. 200. 
 ;Croza Alp, the 201. 
 Cruschetta, la 338. 
 Cruseilles 213. 
 :Cubly, Mont 197. 
 
 Corno dei Tre Signori, Cucciago 388. 
 
 the 345. 
 Cortaillod 173. 
 Corvatsch, Piz 335. 
 Cossonav 175. 
 Cote, La 175. 190. 
 Cotschen, Piz 338. 
 Courmaveur 232. 
 
 Cudrefin 165. 172. 
 Cuera 288. 
 Cul-des-Roches 16 
 Cule, the 207. 
 Cully 193. 199. 
 Culoz 209. 
 iCuraglia 312. 
 
 Couronne de Breona, the Curia Rhaetorum 2b9. 
 
 246. Curtins 327. 
 
 Courrendlin 6. iCurver, Piz 307. 354. 
 Court 6. 
 
 Courtelary 10. iDachli, Oberes 60. 
 
 Couvercle", the 220. i— . Unteres 59.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 39 7 
 
 Dachsen 23. 26. 
 Dachsfelden 6. 
 I>ad. cascade du 216. 
 Dailiv. ca=c. de 226. 
 Dala." the 149. 150. 
 Dala Glacier, the 149. 
 Dala, Kavine of the 256. 
 Dalaas ai9. 
 Dalfazza 316. 
 Dammafirn. the 77. 
 Daniraastock. the 138. 
 Danikorn 15. 
 Dappes. valley of 190. 
 Darligen 145. 
 Darvun. the 312. 
 Daube. the 147. 
 Danbenhorn. the 147. 
 Daubensee. the 147. 
 Davedro 260. 
 Davos 317. 
 
 — am Platz 317. 
 
 — -Dortli 317. 
 Davoser See, the 317. 
 
 — Landwasser. the 317. 
 Dazio Grande 82. 
 Deleraont 5. 
 
 Delices. les 186. 
 
 Delsberg 5. 
 
 Dent Blanche 247. 
 
 , Col de la 276. , 
 
 — de Chamoi." 154. 
 
 — du 3Iidi 207. 
 Derborence. Lac de 244. 
 Derriere-Moulins 166. 
 Dervio 382. 
 
 Desago 368. 
 De^io 388. 
 Devant, Au 154. 
 Devens 201. 
 Devera, Val 140. 
 Devil's Bridge, the 78. 
 Diablerets, the 243. 
 Diablons. the 251. 
 Diavel. Piz del 321. 
 Diavolezza. la 334. 
 Diavolo, il Ponte del 343. 
 Dichtelberg. the 266. 
 St. Didier, Pre 234. 
 Diel.cdorf 32. 
 Diemticen 150. 
 Dieni 311. 
 Diesbacli 294. 
 Dietikon 17. 
 S. Dionisfio. prom. 386. 
 Dioza, the 215. 221. 
 Dischma-Thal. the 317. 
 Disertinuin 309. 
 l>i,«grazia , Monte della 
 
 327. 335. 
 Disiert 309. 
 Dissentis 309. 
 Distelalp. the 264. 
 
 Diveglia, Alp 141. 
 
 Diveria. the 144. 259. 
 
 Dix. Val des 247. 
 
 Dobbia. Col di Val 378. 
 
 Dogern 18. 
 
 Doire, the 232. 2a4. 270. 
 
 Doldenhorn. the 146. 
 
 Dole, the 190. 
 
 Dolent. Mont- 233. 
 
 Dollfuss. Pavilion 135. 
 
 Doltihorn. the 136. 
 
 Dom. the 269. 272. 
 
 Domaso 382. 
 
 Domat 352. 
 
 Doinene. bains de 153. 
 
 Dominikhohle. the bX. 
 
 Domleschg. the 353. 
 
 Domo dOssola 261. 
 
 Donat 356. 
 
 Dongio 313. 
 
 Dongo 382. 
 
 Dora Baitea. the 232. 270. 
 
 etc. 
 Dorfbach. the 138. 
 Dorfli, Davos- 317. 
 
 — Klosters 316. 
 Dorio 382. 
 Dornach 5. 
 Dornbirn 351. 
 Dornige Briicke, the 113. 
 Doron. the 211. 
 Dossen. the 66. 
 Dottingen 19. 
 Douanne 9. 
 
 Doubs. the 6. 169. 171. 
 — . Saut du 169. 
 Douvaine 204. 
 Dranse. the. in the Cha- 
 blais 205. 
 
 — in the Valais 203. 226. 
 235 
 
 — de" Valsorey 236. 
 Drei Schwestern . the 
 
 233. 
 Dreilanderstein. the 298. 
 Dru. Aieuille du 227. 
 Drusberg. the 28- 
 Drusenthor. the 315. 350. 
 Duan, Piz 362. 
 Diibendorf 41. 
 Dubenwald. the 256. 
 Ducan. Piz 317. 
 Diidingen 160. 
 DufourSpitze. the 263. 
 
 274. __ 
 
 Duggia Vallev, the 3ii. 
 Duing. Chateau 212. 
 Dundelsbach, the 90. 
 Dundengrat, the 113. 146. 
 Diindenhorn, the 113. 
 Durand . Glacier de , in 
 
 the Val Arolla 247. 
 
 Durand. Glacier, in the 
 
 Val de Zinal 248. 
 — . Col de 249. 
 Durjin. Piz 295. 
 Durrenberg. the 113. 
 Durrenboden, the 317. 
 Durren. lake of 155- 
 Duyn. la Tour de 201. 
 
 Eau. the Grande- 155. 200. 
 
 — Morte, the 212. 
 
 — Noire, the 225. 
 Eaux Kouge,", Cantine des 
 
 234. 
 Eaux vives, les 186. 
 Ebenalp. the 280. 
 Ebenrain. castle of 8. 
 Ebi. meadow 362. 
 Ebikon 33. 
 Ebligen 126. 
 Ebnat 291. 
 Ebnetluh, the 111. 
 Eburodunum 175. 
 Ecce-Homo-Chapel 302. 
 Eck 126. 131. 
 — . the rothe 109. 
 Eckalp. the 126. 
 Eclepens 175. 
 Ecluse. Fort de 1" 208. 
 Ecoulaies . Glacier des 
 
 242. 
 EllVetikon 3i. 
 Egeri 47. 
 — . lake of 300. 
 Egg 298. 
 
 Eggenalp, the 275. 
 Eggischhorn, the 141. 
 Eginen, Valley of 142. 
 Eginenbach, the 142. 
 Egnach 23. 
 Ehrenfel^ 354. 
 Ehrschwand 128. 
 Eichbiihl 100. 
 Eielenegg 47. 
 Eiger. the 116. 117. 
 Eiirerhohle, the 118. 
 Eigeri..ch. the 119. 
 Einlischthal .•5. Val d'An 
 
 niviors. 
 Einshorn. the 357. 
 Einsiedeln 299. 
 Ei>;ennuh 110. 
 Elgg 35. 
 Elm 305. 
 
 Elmeten Alp, the 138. 
 Emd 268. 
 
 Emet. Lago di 357. 
 — , Alp 357. 
 — , Val 357. 
 Emmaten 72. 
 Emme. the Grosse 9. 13.
 
 398 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Emme, the Little 91. | 
 
 — . the Wald- 91. I 
 
 — . the Weisse 91. 
 
 Emmenhriicke 14. 
 
 Emnienmatt 92. ! 
 
 Emmenthal. the 92. i 
 
 Ems 352. I 
 
 Enderlin, Villa 367. j 
 
 Engadine, the 3'25. I 
 
 Enge. near Bern 97. 
 
 Enge in the Simmenthal 
 153. 
 
 Engelberg 85. 
 
 Engelberger Aa , the 85. 
 130. 
 
 Engelhorn, the 123. 
 
 Engen 20. 
 
 Ensi 305. 
 
 Engstlenalp, the 129. ' 
 
 Engstlenbach, the 129. 
 
 Engstlonsee. the 130. 
 
 Engstligenbach, the 145. 
 
 Ennenda 293. i 
 
 Ennetlinth 296. ' 
 
 Eno s. Inn. 
 
 Entlebuch 91. 
 
 — , the 91. 
 
 Entlenbach. the 91. 
 
 Entremont, Val d" 235. 
 
 Entreves 232. 
 
 En-van-Haut 208. 
 
 Ep annum 202. j 
 
 Ependes 175. i 
 
 Eplatures 169. ; 
 
 Erba 387. ! 
 
 — . Piano d^ 387. [ 
 
 Erdes 2U. { 
 
 Ergolz, the 7. 
 
 Erguel, Vallev of 6. 
 
 Eriels 81. 
 
 Erlach 10. 
 
 Erlenbach in the Sim- 
 menthal 153. [ 
 
 — on the Lake of Ziirich 
 39. 
 
 Erlinsbach 15. 
 
 Erstfelden 75. 
 
 Ertschfeld 120. 
 
 Erzingen 19. 
 
 Eschenthal. the 260. 
 
 Escher-Canal, the 43. 
 
 Eschlikon 35. t 
 
 Escholzmatt 91. 
 
 Esel, the 53. j 
 
 Eselsrucken, the 122. 
 
 Estavaver 172. 1 
 
 Este. Villa d" 386. I 
 
 Etivaz. Valle d' 154. _ j 
 
 Etrambiere. castle 214. j 
 
 Etroubles 240. I 
 
 Etsch, the 346. I 
 
 Ettenberg, the 32. | 
 
 EtzeL the 298. 
 Etzlibach. the 76. 
 Etzlithal. the 76. 310. 
 Eulach. the 34. 
 Euthal, the 298. 
 Evian 205. 
 Evionnaz 202. 
 Evolena 245. 
 Ewig - Schneehorn , the 
 
 135. 
 Excenevrex 205. 
 Evenalp. the 266. 
 Eysee, lake 126. 
 Ezel, the, s. Esel. 
 
 Fahlen, Lake of 282. 
 Faido 82. 
 
 Fain, Val da 332. 340. 
 Falkenfluh, the 107. 
 Falknis, the 284. 
 Fallbach, the 101. 
 Fang 248. 
 
 Fardiin, ruined castle 356. 
 Fariolo 261. 373. 
 Farnbiihl, the Baths of 91. 
 Faroni. Villa 3S6. 
 Fatschalv, Piz 338. 
 Fatschbach, the 296. 
 Faucignv, castle 214. 
 Faulberg, the 119. 
 Faulblatten, the 87. 
 Faulen, the 297. 
 Faulenbach, the 75. 
 Faulensee, the 75. 107. 
 Faulhorn, the 119. 
 Faverges 212. 
 Fedoz, Vadret da 327. 
 — . Val 327. 
 Fee 266. 
 
 — Glacier, the 266. 
 — , Monte 266. 
 Feldis 353. 
 Feldkirch 350. 
 Feli-Stutz, the 272. 
 Fellaria Glacier, the 334. 
 Fellibach, the 77. 
 Felsberg 352. 
 Felsenburg, the 146. 
 Felsenegg''47. 
 Felsenthor , the (on the 
 
 Rigi) 62. 
 Felt-Alp, the 352. 
 Felwen 34. 
 
 Fenetre. Col de 239. 242. 
 — , Glac. de 242. 
 Fenis, Castle of 270. 
 Fer-a-Cheval , Valiee dii 
 
 222. 
 Ferden 251. 
 Ferette 6. 
 
 Fermel, Vallev of 151. 
 Fernex 186. 
 
 Fernigen 131. 
 
 Ferpecle, Glaeier de 246. 
 
 Ferporta , ruined castle 
 
 314. 
 Ferrera 356. 
 — , Vallev of 356. 
 Ferret, Col de 233. 
 — , Valley of 233. 
 Ferro, il Sasso del 372. 
 Fettan 338. 
 Feuerstein, the 95. 
 Feuerthalen 19. 
 Fex 327. 
 
 Fex-Glacier, the 327. 
 — , Cima da 334. 
 — , Vallev of 334. 
 Fibbia. tiie 80. 
 St. Fiden 36. 
 Fideris 315. 
 — , Baths of 315. 
 Fideriser Au 315. 
 Fier. the 210. 213. 
 Fiesch 140. 
 Fiesso 82. 
 
 Filar, chalets de 264. 
 Filisur 320. 
 Fille-Dieu, La, nunnerv. 
 
 162. 
 Findelenbach, the 272. 
 Findelen-Glacier, the 275. 
 Finge 255. 
 Finhaut 225. 
 Finster-Aar Glacier 134. 
 Finster-Aarhorn 134. 
 Finstermiinz 347. 
 — , Pass of 347. 
 — , Hoch- 347. 
 Fionnav 242. 
 Fischetz, the 24. 
 Fisch-See, the 143. 
 Fisistock, the 146. 252. 
 Fitznau 69. 
 Fitznauer Stock 70. 
 Fiume Latte, the 382. 
 Flaine, Lac de 215. 
 Flamatt 159. 
 Flascherberg, the 284. 
 Flatzbach, the 330. 
 Flawvl 35. 
 FleeeVe, the 220. 
 — , the Croix de la 220. 
 Fless, Val 316. 
 Fleurier 171. 
 Flies 348. 
 Flims 307. 
 Flims-Pass, the 306. 
 Flirsch 349. 
 Florentina, tower 364. 
 Floria, Aig. de la 220. 
 Fluchthorn, the 338. 
 Fluela-Pass, the 317. 
 Fliielen 74.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 399 
 
 Fluh Alp, the 265. 275. 
 — , auf der, castle 142. 
 Flumet 211. 
 Flum.s 45. 
 Fluntern 26. 
 Fobello 378. 
 Folie'rant, the 159. 
 Fond de la Combe 222. 
 Fonds, Valle'e de3 222. 
 — , Col des 222. 
 Font 172. 
 Fontaine, La 227. 
 
 — des merveilles 209. 
 Fontana 140. 
 
 — , the Alp 317. 
 
 — Chistaina 339. 
 Foo-Pass, the 305. 
 Foppa, La, defile 287. 
 Foppiano 144. 
 
 — , Defile of 144. 
 Fora. Piz 324. 
 Forcellina, the 356. 
 Forciaz, mount, and pass 
 
 near St. Gervais 215. 
 — , near Martignv 226. 
 
 227. 
 — , Val d'Herens 246. 
 Forcletta, Pas de la 250. 
 Forcola, la 340. 
 Forraazza Vallev 143. 
 Forn, Val di 337. 
 Fornasette 380. 
 Forno Alp, the 140. 
 Forno Glacier, the 327. 
 Foron, the 214. 
 Fouilly, le 215. 
 Fours," Col des 231. 
 Fragstein, ruin 314. 
 Franzenshcihe 345. 
 Frau, the Weisse 146. 
 Frauenfcld 34. 
 Frauonkappelen 164. 
 Frauenkirch 318. 
 Freiberg, ruin 309. 
 Freiborgc, the 305. 
 Freiburg 160. 
 Freniere 243. 
 Frenkendorf 7. 
 Fressinone, the 260. 
 Freudenberg, the 281. 
 — , ruins 284. 
 Freundhorn. the 146. 
 Fribour-; 160. 
 Friedberg 278. 
 Friedrichshafen 21. 
 Frienisberg 163. 
 Frizzoni, Villa 383. 
 Frodolfo, the 343. 
 Frohburg, the 8. 
 Frtihlichsburg, ruin 346. 
 Frohnalp, the 71. 
 Frolichsegg 281. 
 
 Frombach, the 2^58. Gampel 251. 
 
 Froniberghorn, the 102. Gampenhof, the 345. 
 Fronalpstock , the 292. Gams 292. 
 
 305. Gamsen, the 257. 
 
 Frua, Sulla 143. (^andria aSO. 
 
 Fruitier, Pavilion du 233. Ganter-bridge, the 25S 
 
 valley, the 258. 
 
 Garbach, the 269. 
 
 Garschenthal, the 138. 
 
 Garzeno 382. 
 
 Gassenriedpass, the 266. 
 
 Ga«senried Glacier, the 
 266. 
 
 Gaster, the 44. 
 
 Gastern 2.52. 
 
 Gas tern Vallev. the 252. 
 
 Gastemdorf 252. 
 
 Gasternholz 252. 
 
 Gatschiefer. the 316. 
 
 Gauli Glacier, the 132. 
 
 Gavia, the 344. 
 
 'Geant, Col du 223. 
 Furggen-Glacier, the 261. —, Aiguille du 223. 233. 
 
 269. 273. '— , Glacier du 218. 
 
 Furgge-Vallev , the 261. Gebhardsberg, the 351. 
 
 266. ■ Geggenloch 291. 
 
 Furgglen First, the 278.!Gei3holz 124. 
 Furke, the 113. Gele, ^lont 242. 
 
 Fiirstenau, castle 353. [Gellihorn, the 146. 147. 
 Fiirstenburg, castle 346. jGelmerbach, the 134. 
 Furth 308. ~ ■ 
 
 Furva, Val 343. 
 Fusio 370. 
 Fussach 283. 
 Futschiil Pass, the 338. 
 
 Friimsel, the 43. 
 Frut, anf der 143. 
 Frutbach, the 296. 
 Frutberg, the 296. 
 Frutigen 145. 
 Fruthwald 143. 
 Frutz, the 350. 
 Ftaun s. Fettan. 
 Fuentes, ruin 360. 
 Fuorn 337. 
 Furca, the 137. 
 — di Betta, the 379. 
 — , the Criner 144. 
 Furcahiirner, the 138. 
 Furgne s. Furke. 
 FurgKenbach, the 269. 
 
 Gabelhorner. the 272 
 
 Gabris, the 278. 
 
 Gadmen 131. 274. 
 
 Gadmenbach. the 129. 130. Generoso, Monte 366 
 
 Gadmenfluh, the 129.131. Geneva 177 
 
 Gelmerhom, the 134. 137. 
 Gelten-Glacier, the 155. 
 Gelterkinden 15. 
 Gemmenalphorn, the lOS. 
 Gemmi. the 147. 
 Gem^bach. the 122. 
 Gemshorn. the 266. 
 Gemshiigel. the 115. 
 Gemsmattli, the 53. 
 
 Gadmenthal, the 131. 
 Gagai, Villa 385. 
 Gagikopf, the 273. 
 Gais 279. 
 
 Galbiati, Villa 385. 
 Galenstock. the 138. 
 Galcenen 41. 
 St. Gall 35. 
 — , Hospice 313. 
 Gallaratc 375. 
 Gallegione. the 357. 
 Gallcria dei Basui , 
 
 344. 
 Gallivaggio, JIadonna 
 
 359. 
 Galmers 153. 
 Galmhorn, the 149. 
 Galthur 338. 
 
 — , Lake of laS. 
 Gcneveys. les Hants- 168. 
 — sur-Cofirane 168. 
 Genf 177. 
 
 Genthelalp, the 129. 
 Genthelliach, the 129. 
 Genthod 175. 
 Genthod, Pointe de 188. 
 iSt. Georgen near St. Gall 
 
 281. 
 — , chapel, in the Rhine 
 the Valley 287. 
 
 — , near Wallenstadt 45. 
 di St. Georees in the Jura 
 
 176. 
 Gepaatsch Glacier 347. 
 St. Germain 234. 
 Germignaga 371. 
 
 Gamchi Glacier, the 113. Gersau 70. 
 Gamchiliicke, the 147. Gerschene Alp, the 130. 
 Gammerrhein, the 311. Gersthorn, the 137.
 
 400 
 
 JNDEX. 
 
 St. Gertrud 345. 
 
 St. Gervais 215. 
 
 — , Baths of 215. 
 
 Gerzensee 100. 
 
 Geschenen 140. 
 
 Gesseney 154. 
 
 Gessens, Phare de 209. 
 
 Gestler s. Chasseral. 
 
 Gessler's Burg 48. 
 
 Getroz, Glacier de 235. 
 242. 
 
 Ghiffa 370. 
 
 S. Giacomo on the Ber- 
 nardino 364. 
 
 S. Giacomo . chapel in 
 the Val Bedretto 143. 
 
 — in the Lira Valley 359. 
 
 — near Sedrun 311. 
 
 — la Trinita 378. 
 
 — Pass, the 143. 
 
 St. Gian, church 330. 
 Gibel. the 302. 
 Giesshach. the 127. 
 Gilfre. the 214. 222. 
 Gignod 240. 
 Gimmelwald 112. 
 Ginevra 177. 
 St. Gingolph 206. 
 Ginistrella. Monte 377. 
 St. Gion, Hospice 313. 
 Gionnero, Monte 366. 
 Giop, Alp 329. 
 Giornico 82. 
 S. Giovanni, river 372. 
 — , island in the Lake 
 
 of Como 385. 
 in the Lago Mag- 
 
 giore 372. 
 Gislifluh, the 15. 
 Gislikon , bridge of 33. 
 Giswyl 90. 
 Gitschen. the 79. 
 Gittana 382. 
 Gitte, the 231. 
 Giuf. Val 311. 
 Giulia, Villa 385. 
 Giulio. the 324. 
 S. Giulio. Island 376. 
 Giumels, the 321. 
 S. Giuseppe, Cantoniera 
 
 81. 
 Gland 175. 
 Glane, the 162. 
 Glaris s. Glarus. 
 
 — in the Davos 318. 
 Glarnisch, the 304. 
 — , the Vorder- 293. 
 Glarus 293. 
 
 — . the Canton of 292. 
 Glatt, the 34. 35. 
 Gleckstein, the 119. 122. 
 Glenner, the 308. 
 
 Gletscheralp, the, on the Grand-Plateau, the 223. 
 
 Monte Fee 266.' Sacconnex 186. 
 
 Gletscherhorn, the 114. Saleve, the 187. 
 
 Gletschhorn. the 138. 151. Vaux 162. 
 
 Glion in the' Grisons 308. Grande-Eau. the 155. 200. 
 
 — in the Vaud 197. 
 Gliss 257. 
 
 Glisshorn, the 258. 
 Gloggeren, the 282. 
 Glurns 346. 
 GniJpfistein. the 52. 
 Goldach. the 36. 
 Goldau 54. 
 Goldei. the 107. 
 
 Grande Gorge, the 187. 
 Grands-Mulets, the 223. 
 Grandes Roches, the 193. 
 Grandson 174. 
 Grandval 6. 
 Granfelden 6. 
 Grjingen-bridge, the 142. 
 Granges 255. 
 — Neuves 242. 
 
 Goleze , Col de 207. 222. Granges, les 226. 
 
 Golzern 76. 
 — , the Lake of 76. 
 Golzern-Alpen, the 76. 
 Golzwvl 107. 126. 
 
 Granier, Mont 210. 
 Granois 156. 
 Grap-Glarun, the 310. 
 Graplang, ruins 45. 
 
 — . the Lake of 107. i2G. Grappa longa 45. 
 Gomagoi 345. Grasonet 224. 
 
 Gondo 260. Grassen, the 87. 
 
 Gonten. Baths in Appen- Graubiinden, the Canton 
 zell 277. 288. 
 
 — on the Lake of Thun Grau-Haupt, the 378. 
 103. Grauhorn, the 130. 
 
 Gorbs-Bach, the 287. Grauhorner, the 284. 287. 
 
 Gorgier 174. Graun 347. 
 
 Gorner Glacier, the 273. Gravedona 382. 
 275. ' Gravellona 261. 
 
 — Grat. the 272. Greifensee, the 41. 
 Gornerhorn. the 263. 275.iGreifenstein, castle 320. 
 
 Goschenen 77. 
 — Reuss, the 77. 
 IGosgen, Castle of 15. 
 Gossau 35. 
 
 ,S. Gottardo, Sasso di 8 
 Gotteron, Pont de 160. 
 — , Vallee de 161. 
 Gottfrev 253. 
 St. Got'thard, the 80. 
 — . Pass of 80. 
 — , Hospice 80. 
 Gottmadingen 20. 
 Gottschallenberg 40. 
 Gutzis 351. 
 Goumois 170. 
 Gouter. Dome du 215. 
 
 Greina Pass, the 308. 
 Grellingen 5. 
 Grenchen 9. 
 
 Grengiols, bridge of 142. 
 iGrenoble , Route de 210. 
 'Grens 191. 
 Grenzach 7. 18. 
 Greppen 48. 69. 
 Gressonev, Val 378. 
 
 — St. Jean 378. 
 
 — la Trinite 378. 
 Gresy-sur-Aix 209. 
 Greverz 158. 
 
 Gria, Glacier de 216. 
 Griaietsch Glacier , the 
 316. 
 
 — , Aiguilles du 215. 223. Griante 380. 
 Gozzano 376. Griatschouls, Piz 336. 
 Graben-Glacier . the 269. Gries Glacier, the 143. 
 Grabenhorn, the 269. 270. — Pass, the 143. 
 Grabs 292. Griessen 19. 
 Grafenort 85. Griessenbach, the 76. 
 Graffeneire, the 237. jGrigna, Monte 382. 
 Graisivaudan . Valley oflGrimence 247. 
 210. Grimisuat 152. 
 Graiterv. Mont 6. Grimmenstein, ruins 38. 
 Gramont, the 232. 233. 150. 
 Grand-Combin, the 237. Grimmi. the 151. 
 — -Moveran, the225. 243. Grimsel, the 136. 
 Nant, the 220. Grimselgrund, the 134.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 401 
 
 Grimseln 152. 
 Orim?el Hosyjic*: 
 
 iGiirhe, tlie 99. 
 fhel34.lGurhcnliach, tlic 109. 
 
 Grindelalp, the 121. 
 Grindeln, Chalets of 121. 
 Grindelwalcl 117. 
 — -Glaciers 117. 
 
 , the Lower 178. 
 
 , the Upper 117. 
 
 Grion 243. 
 Grionne, the 156. 
 
 Gvirezinettlerbach 
 : 131. 
 iGurf 143. 
 IGurin 144. 
 Gurniirel 101. 
 iGurtcn, tlie 97. 
 Gurtnellen 77. 
 Giitsch, the 71. 
 
 tlic 
 
 Grisons , Canton of the Gutschen s. Gitschen. 
 
 288. Guttancn 133. 
 
 Grivelli, castle 371. Guttenher^r, castle 284 
 
 Grond. Piz 308. Giittingen, castle 23. 
 
 Grom. 3G4. Giiz. Piz 327. 
 
 Gros-Jean, Tete dn 243. Gwatt 152. 
 Grosotto 243. Gyrenspitz, the 282. 
 
 /"rosse Auberg, the 41. 
 , rosshorn. the 111. 
 ^r()??thal.'the 73. 294. 
 
 rrotte aux fees, the 201 
 Grovello 143. 
 (}T\\h. Katholisch- 277 
 — . Reformirt- 277. 
 C^ruben 250. 
 Gruben-Alp, the 250 
 
 Haag 283. 
 Habkern 108. 
 
 Thai, the 108. 
 
 Habsburg, Neu-, ruins 49, 
 Hacken, the 55. 306. 
 HJiderlibriick, the 77. 
 Hagletschalp, the 109. 
 Hahnenmoos, the 145. 
 
 Grum , Alp 329. 333. 340. HaMenstein, ruins 285. 
 Griinenberg, the 109. Hallwy], lake of 15. 
 Griinhorner, the 136. [Handeck, Falls of tht 
 Griinhornhutte, the 295. 133. 
 Griinhornliicke, the 135. Hangbaum-Alp , the 73. 
 
 Griisch 315. 
 Gruyere 158. 
 Grvnau, castle 42. 
 Gryon 150. 243. 
 Gryonne, the 156. 
 Gspalthorn, the 114. 
 Gspon 207. 
 Gstaad 155. 
 
 Hanged-Gletscherhorn, 
 
 the 129. 
 'Hanagiessen, the 15. 
 Hannig Alp, the 266. 
 Habsburg, castle of 16. 
 — , baths of 15. 
 Harder, the 108. 
 Hardennannli, the 107. 
 
 Gsteig, near Interlaken Harzernspifze, the 99 
 
 107. 109. Hasenburg, the 150. 
 
 — . in the Sarine Valley I Hasenmatt, the 12. 
 
 155. 
 — , on the Simplon 259. 
 Gsteigthal, the 155. 
 Gsteiszwvler 107. 
 Gstiibt-Bach, the 303. 
 Guarda 338. 
 Guardavall , ruins 336. 
 Gubel 40. 
 
 Giiferhorn, the 363. 
 Guft'ern 76. 
 Gugel. the 274. 
 Giiggisgrat, the 108. 
 Gumfluh, the 154. 
 Gumihorn, the 108. 
 Gumlingen 92. 99. 
 Giimminen 164. 
 Giindlischwand 108. 
 Gunz on tlie Simplon 260 
 — on the lake of Wallen- 
 
 .'tadt 44. 
 B.iiDEKKK. Switzerland 
 
 Haslen 281 
 Hasli-Grund 124. 
 Hasli-.Iungfrau, the 122. 
 Hasli-Scheideck, the 122. 
 Hasli, Valley of, or 
 Hash in the Weissland 
 j 124. 132. 
 Hasliberg, the 124. 
 Hauderes 246. 
 Hauenstein 18. 
 Hauenstein, tunnel of 8. 
 Hauseck, the 136. 
 Hausen, (in the Albis 33. 
 — in the 3Iaventhal 131. 
 Hausstock. tlie 293. 
 Haut-Chatillon 139. 
 Hauto-Conibc, monastery 
 
 209. 
 Ilaufenima, Glacier d' 242. 1 
 
 247. 
 
 5th Editicn. 
 
 Hautemma, Piz 242. 
 Hauteville, castle 195. 
 Hautt! Genevey.e, les 
 
 168. 
 Hiizingen 294. 
 Heerbruge 283. 
 Heidc-Bach. the 319. 
 Heiden 277. 
 lleidenthurm, the 89. 
 Heider See, the 346; 
 Heiligenberg, castle 23. 
 Heiliiikreuzcapelle , the 
 
 62." 
 Heiniwehlluh, the 106. 
 Heinzcnberg, the 353. 
 Hcldsberg 283. 
 Helscnhorn, the 141. 
 iHengsrart 26. 
 iHerbaceres, Mont 227. 
 Herblintren 20. 
 'Herbrigen 268. 
 iHere'mence, Val d' 245. 
 Herens, Col d' 246. 
 — , Dent d' 245. 
 — , Val d' 245. 
 Hergiswyl 52. 88. 
 Hcrisau 35. 
 Hermance 204. 
 — , the 230. 
 :Herrenberg, the 300. 
 jHerrenreuti 86. 
 iHerrliberg 39. 
 iHertenstein, castle 69. 
 Herzouenbuchsee 9. 
 jHettlinsen 26. 
 Heuerbertr, the 38. 
 IHeumoz 200. 
 iHeustrichbad. the 145. 
 Hilterfmecn 103. 
 Hindclbank 19. 
 Hinterrlioin, village 362. 
 Hinterrhein, the 352. 302. 
 Hinterruck, the 43. 45. 
 iHinter-Waggithal 41. 
 IHinwvl 42. 
 'Hirli." the 356. 
 Hirschon'^prunc, the 283. 
 Hirtonthal, the 305. 
 Ilirzel 40. 
 llirzli, the 44. 
 llochalple, the 351. 
 Hochbalm Glacier 206. 
 Huchenschwand 19. 
 Hoch-Etzcl, the 298. 
 
 Finstermiinz 347. 
 
 Hochduh. the 70. 142. 
 Hoch-Ryalt, ruin 355. 
 Hochscheven, the 304. 
 Hochstein", tlie 02. 
 Hochstollen, the 89. 
 Hochstuckli, the 300. 
 Hochthaligrat, the 272. 
 
 20
 
 402 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Hochwacht, on the Albis 
 33. 
 
 — on the Zugerberg 47. 
 Hochwang Glacier 249. 
 Hoch-Wiilllingen 34. 
 Hockenhorn, the 252. 
 HolTnungsaii 318. 
 Hofstetten near Brienz 
 
 125. 
 
 — near Thun 100. 
 Hofwvl 13. 
 Hohbiihl, the 106. 
 Hohebriicke, the 105. 
 Hohekasten, the 280. 
 Hohelerch Glacier , the 
 
 265. 
 Hohe Mesmer, the 282. 
 Hohenbriesen, the 73. 84. 
 Hohenembs 351. 
 — , Alt-, castle 351. 
 — , ruins 352. 
 Hohenrain, the 34. 
 Hohen-Rhatien, ruins 355. 
 Hohentrins, castle 307. 
 Hohentwiel 20. 
 Hnhe-Rhonen. the 40. 298. 
 Hohesteg, the 107. 269. 
 Htiheweg, the 105. 
 Hohgant, the 109. 
 Hohgau, the 20. 
 Hohle Gasse, the 48. 
 Hohliebe 151. 
 Holdri, the 112. 
 Hollengraben, the 255. 
 Hollenhaken, the 18. 
 Hollenschlund, the 313. 
 Holzegg, the 56. 
 Homme de pierre, the 228. 
 Hongrin, the 158. 
 Hopfreben 351. 
 Horgen 39. 
 Horger Egg, the 46. 
 Horn 38. 
 
 Hornberg. the 92. 
 H6rnli, the 275. 
 Horw 88. 
 Hospenthal 79. 
 Hiili Glacier, the 76. 
 Hiilistock, the 76. 
 Hugihorn, the 134. 
 Hullehorn, the 141. 
 Hundeloch s. Caniciil. 
 Hundsalp, the 131. 
 Hundshorn.the Great 113. 
 Hiinegg, chateau 101. 
 Hunnentluh, the 110. 
 Hurden 298. 
 Hutstock, the 89. 
 Hutte, La 6. 
 Hiitten 38. 
 
 Ibach 56. 303. 
 
 Ifl'erten s. Yverdon. 
 Iffigen 151. 
 Iftigenbach, the 151. 
 ilgnes, case, des 246. 
 !— , glac. des 246. 
 'Ilanz 308. 
 
 lie de Paix, the 199. 
 Ilfis, the 91. 
 Ill, the 349. 
 llltiraben. the 255. 
 lllliez, Val 207. 
 Im Boden 132. 
 
 — Brand 107. 
 
 — Grund 53. 124. 
 
 — Hof 132. 
 
 — Lad 142. 
 
 — Lerch, chapel 266. 
 I— Loch 142. 
 '— Selden 252. 
 Imfeld 140. 
 St. Imier 10. 
 — , Valley of 6. 
 Immensee 47. 
 St. Immerthal s. Imier. 
 
 !ln der Stapf 263. 
 
 Incino 387. 
 
 Inden 149. 
 Ilngenbohl 56. 70. 
 iinn, the 327. 329. etc. 
 
 Innertkirchen 124. 
 
 Innsbruck 849. 
 
 Ins 163. 
 
 Intelvi-Vallev. the 385. 
 
 Interlaken 104. 
 
 Intra 372. 
 jintragna 370. 
 
 Intschi 77. 
 
 Intschialpbach, the 77. 
 
 Irnis s. Giornico. 
 
 Irtschelen Alp, the 126. 
 
 Iselle 260. 
 
 Iseltenalp, the 108. 121. 
 ,Iseltwald 126. 128. 
 
 Isenthal, the 73. 
 
 Isere. the 210. 
 
 Isla Persa 333. 
 
 Islas 327. 
 
 Isles, Les 2'24. 
 
 Isleten 73. 
 
 Islikon 34. 
 
 Isolain theEngadine 327. 
 
 — on the Splugen 358. 
 Isola Bella 373. 
 
 . — S. Giovanni 372. 
 
 — Madre 373. 
 
 — dei Pescatori 373. 
 
 — Superiore 373. 
 Itramen 118. 
 Jvrea 377. 
 
 I Jacob.shubeli , the 100. 
 jSt. Jacques 379. 
 
 St. .Jacob on the Birs 4. 
 Jaman, Dent de 158. 
 
 ■ Col de la 158. 
 
 .Tamthal, the 338. 
 iJardin, the 220. 
 Jaun 153. 
 I—. ValleV of 153. 
 iJazi. chalets de 264. 
 |— , Cima de 274. 
 iSt. .lean 247. 
 iSt. Jean d'Aulph 205. 
 iJenatz 315. 
 jjenisberg 318. 
 St. Jeoire 222. 
 Jesellen 260. 
 Jochpass, the 130. 
 Joderhorn, the 264. 
 !St. Johann am Platz 318. 
 I—, Alt- 291. 
 '—, Neu- 291. 
 iJohannisberg , the , near 
 
 St. Moritz 329. 
 Joli, Mont- 230. 
 'Jolimont, the 10. 163. 
 'Jommen. the 158. 
 Jon, Col d« 378. 
 jjonen 42. 
 
 iJonen-Fluss, the 42. 
 IJorasses, les 233. 
 Ijorat, Mont- 191. 
 Jorgenberg, ruined castle 
 i 309. 
 
 Jorio, Passo del 382. 
 St. Joseph am Giinsbrun- 
 I nen 6. 
 
 — , convent (Muotta) 303. 
 — , near Schwvz 56. 
 St. Jost 91. 
 
 Jourplaine, Col de 222. 
 Joux, lac de 177. 
 — , fort de 171. 
 Juchli, the 89. 
 Juf 356. 
 St. Julien 213. 
 Julier, the 324. 
 Julier. Piz 332. 
 Julier-Alp, the 325. 
 .Tumeau.x, les 273. 
 Jung-Alpen, the 251. 
 Jung-Pass, the 251. 
 Jungfrau. the 115. 
 — , the Hasli- 122. 
 Jungfraublick, the 104. 
 Jungfrau-Joch, the ' 19. 
 Jungholzbiiche , the 129. 
 Jiingisbrunnen , the 129. 
 Jura, the 5. 176. etc. 
 Jurten s. Mont-Jorat. 
 Jupiter, Plan de 239. 
 Juvalta, ruin 353. 
 
 Kaferberg, the 31.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 403 
 
 Kagiswvl 89. 
 Kaien, the 278. 
 Kaiserruck, the 314. 
 Kaiser-tuhl, the, in the 
 Grossthal 73. 
 
 — near Lungern 90. 
 Kalfeuserthal, the 45. 287. 
 
 305. 
 Kalkberg, the 358. 
 Kalkstock, the 75. ' 
 
 Kaltbad, the 62. 
 Kaltberg, chal. of 250. 
 Kaltbrunn 42. 
 Kaltenbrunn 348. 
 Kaltwasser Glacier , the 
 
 256. 259. 
 Kammerstock, the 294. 
 Kammlistock, the 28. 
 Kamor, the 280. I 
 
 Kander, the 144. 153. • 
 Kander Glacier, the 146. 
 Kandergrund 146. 
 Kanderste^ 146. 
 Kandle, the 152. 
 Kanzel, the, on theGiess-' 
 
 bach 127. 
 Kanzel, the, in the Rhine 
 
 valley 283. 
 Ktinzli, near Brienz 125. 
 — , the, on the Rigi 62. 
 — . near Seelisberg 71. 
 — . Via Mala 355. 
 Kappel on the Albis 33. 
 
 — in the Toggenburg291. 
 Karpfstock, the 293. 294. 
 Karrenegg, the 41. 
 Karrholen, the 109. 
 Karstelenbach, the 76. 
 Kastenbaumbridge 142. 
 Kiistris 307. 
 Katzenstrick 301. 
 Katzis 354. 
 
 Kaunserthal, the 348. 
 Kehrbiichi 143. 
 Kempthal 34. 
 Kerenzer-Berg, the 44. 
 Kerns 88. 
 
 Kesch, Piz 336. 
 Kesseltobel, the 303. 
 Kessisbodenloch, the 60. 
 Kesswvl 23. 
 Kienbach, the 113. 
 Kienholz 125. 
 Kien;Vallev, the 113. 
 Kiesen 100. 
 Kilchberg 39. 
 Kilhvangen 17. 
 Kindlismord, chapel 70. 
 Kinnbriicke, the 267. 
 Kinzigkulm, the 297. 
 Kippel 251. 
 Kirchet, the 132. 
 
 Kirsiten 88. 
 Kistenpass, the 295. 
 Klainm, the, on the Arl 
 
 berg 349. 
 St. Klaus 89. 
 Klausen, the 296. 
 Klein-Basel 2. 
 
 — LautTenburg 18. La Balraa 23<J. 
 
 Klein-Thai, the, in the — Barma 20'2. 
 
 Canton of Glarus 293. — Batiaz 20:]. 
 , in the Canton of — Bergue 187. 
 
 Kiisnacht on the Lake of 
 
 Lucerne 48. 
 — on the Lake of Zurich 
 
 39. 
 Kiissenberg, castle of 19. 
 Kyburg, the 84. 
 
 Uri 73. 
 Klein-Wabern 98. 
 Klenenhorn, the 258. 
 Klettgau, the 19. 
 Klimsenhorn, the 53. 
 Klingnau 19. 
 Klein-See, the 304. 
 Klonthal, the 304. 
 Kloster-Thal. the 349. 
 Klosterberg-Bridge 303. 
 Klosterle 349. 
 Klosterli, the 60. 
 Klosters 316. 
 
 — Caille. suspension- 
 bridge 213. 
 
 — Chaine 171. 
 
 — Chaux-de-Fonds 169. 
 du Milieu 170. 
 
 — Clusc near Ao.sta 240. 
 ' in the Jura 171. 
 
 j — Conversion 162. 
 
 — Comballaz 155. 
 
 — Cote 176. 190. 
 j— Crete 245. 
 
 I — Filk'-Dieu, nunuerv 
 ! 162. 
 
 Klostersche Stiitz , the|— Fontaine •?27. 
 
 317. '— Foppa 287. 
 
 Klus in the Vallev of the — Hutte 6. 
 
 Kander 252. I— .Toux 2'24. 
 
 Klus in the Prattigau314.!— Lanco 174. 
 
 — on the Reuss 75. j— Lecherette 155. 
 
 — intheSimmenthal 153.'— Motta 340. 
 
 Knieri, the 85. '— Pischa 332. 334. 340. 
 
 Koblenz 19. I— Platta 334. 
 
 Konigsfelden 16. I— Pleine 208. 
 
 Konigsspitze, the, or — Pousaz 200. 
 Kcinigswand, the 347. 345. — Rippe 190. 
 Konoltingen 92. ]— Rusa S40. 
 
 Kopfenstock, the 298. .— Russille 177. 
 Koppistein 251. 1— Salle''234. 
 
 Krauch-Thal, the 305. ■— Sarra. ca.stle 234. 
 
 Krayalp, the 282. 
 Krazernbriicke 35. 
 Kreuzboden, the 156. 
 
 1— Sauge 165. 
 
 ;— Saxe, bath 232. 
 
 I — Serra 343. 
 
 Kreuzli Pass, the 76. 310. — Stretta 334. 340. 
 
 Kreuzlingen 23. 
 Kriegalp Pass, the 141. 
 Kriens 50. 
 Kriensbach, the 88. 
 Krisiloch, the 53. 
 Krispalt s. Crispalt. 
 Kriischenbrunn 91. 
 Krottenstein, ruins 285. 
 Kruninibach, the 259. 
 Krummenau 291. 
 Kiiblis 316. 
 Kublisbad, the 107. 
 Kumerberg, the 351. 
 Kunkels 287. 
 Kunkels Pass, the 287. 
 Kurfirsten s. Churlirsten. 
 Kurzeck 36. 
 Kurzenbur^, the 36. 
 
 — Thuille 234. 
 
 — Tour lo9._196. 
 
 — Tourne 170. 
 
 — Turr,ruined castle 356. 
 
 — Vaux 193. 
 
 — Villette 229. 
 
 Laas Ferner, the 347. 
 
 Laax 308. 
 
 Lac Lenian 188. 
 
 Lachen 41. 
 
 Lacii.< Afeiiliceii.<i.< 164. 
 
 — Brigandnus 21. 
 
 — Ebtirodiinensis 172. 
 
 — LariKs 381. 
 
 — Leinamis 188. 
 
 — Verbanus 371. 
 Ladis, baths 348. 
 Lagalp, Piz 340. 
 
 26===
 
 404 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lagerhorn, the 272. 
 Lagerngebirg, the 17. 
 Laglio 385. 
 La go Bianco 340. 
 
 — 3Iageiore 370. 
 
 — 3Iin6re aiO. 
 
 — Nero 340. 
 Lagref. Piz 327. 
 Lain 319. 
 Lambro, the 387. 
 Lammernbach the 76. 
 Lammeren Glacier, the 
 
 148. 
 Lance, la 174, 
 Landeck 348. 
 Landenberg, the 89. 
 Landeron 10. 
 Landquart 314. 
 — . the 284. 314. 
 Landskron- G. 
 Landwasser, the Davoser, 
 
 317. I 
 
 Langebach, the 87. 
 Langenbruck 8. 
 Langendorf 12. 
 Lanaenegg Alp. the 304. 
 Langenfluh, the 266. 
 Langenstein 45. 
 Langenstutz 75. 
 Langenthal 9. 
 Langnavi 92. 
 Lang-Tauferer Thai, the 
 
 347. 
 Lang-Thai, the 141. 
 Languard, Piz 332. 
 Langwies 317. 
 Lanibach, the 90. 
 Lank 287. 
 
 Laquin Glacier, the 259. 
 Laret, Ober and Unter- 
 
 317. 
 Laret. the Alp 329. 
 Largo, Cima del 327. 
 Lario, il 381. 
 Larhts^ lacus 381. 
 Lapnigo 388. 
 Lapquez, Villa 382. 
 Latterbach 150. 153. 
 Lanbeckstalden, the 154. 
 Laiil>erhorn, the Little 
 
 116. 
 Lavxbcrstock, the 89. 
 Laucherhorn, the 121. 
 Laudegg, ruins 348. 
 Larienen 151. 
 — . Valley of 155. 
 Lnufbodenhorn, the 151. 
 Laufelfingen 8. 
 Lauf'en, castle 24. 
 Lau'fon on the Birs 5. 
 i.auiionburg 18. 
 Lanincnthor, the 114. 
 
 Laupen 159. 
 Lausanne 191. 
 Lauter-Aar Glacier, the 
 
 134. 
 Lauteraarhorn, the 116. 
 Lauteraarjoch, the 119. 
 Lauterbrunnen 110. 
 
 Scheideck, the 116. 
 
 Lavancher 124. 
 
 Lavedo, promontory 385. 
 
 Laveno 372. 
 
 Lavey, Baths of 202. 
 
 Lavin 337. 
 
 Laviner, Joch, the 316. 
 
 Lavinium 337. 
 
 Lavinuoz. Val 316. 
 
 Lax 142. 
 
 Le Bied 173. 
 
 — Braspus 176. 
 
 — Breuil 269. 
 
 — Fouillv 215. 
 
 — Lac 215. 
 
 — Lieu 176. 
 
 — Locle 169. 
 
 — Pont 177. 
 
 — Pre 154. 
 
 — Prese 341. 
 
 — Rivage 186. 
 
 — Sepev 155. 156. 
 
 — Sentier 176. 
 Lebendun Lake, the 140. 
 Lecco 386. 
 — , Lago di 386. 
 Lech, am 352. 
 Lechaud, Glacier de 218. 
 -, Col 222. 
 Lecherette, la 155. 
 Leckihorn, the 80. 
 Leerau 107. 
 
 Legger, the chalet of 112. 
 Leggia 361. 
 Legnano 375. 
 Legnone, Monte 382. 
 Legnoncino, Jlonte 382. 
 Lej alv 340. 
 
 — nair 340. 
 
 — da Segl, the 327. 
 Leissigen 109. 145. 
 Lciptkamm, the 43. 
 Lemanc 210. 
 JLenk 151. 
 [Lenno 385. 
 jLensch 322. 
 Lenz 319. 322. 
 iLenzburg, castle 15. 
 ;Lenzer Heide, the 322. 
 '— Horn, the 322. 
 I St. Leonhard 255. 
 [Leone, Monte 259. 
 iLerch, Chapel 266. 
 ILcs Billodes 169. 
 
 — Bois 221. 
 
 ILes Bo.?son=; 216. 
 I— Brenets 169. 
 
 — Chapieux 231. 
 
 — Charmettes 210. 
 
 — Chavants 215. 
 
 — Contamines 230. 
 I — Convers 16S. 
 
 — Cretes 196. 
 
 — Delices 186. 
 
 — Eaux-vives 186. 
 
 — Granges 226. 
 
 I — Hauts-Geneveys 168. 
 '— lies 224. 
 ; — Masses 155. 
 i— Montets near Servoz 
 215. 
 
 — — near Trelechamp 
 I 224. 
 
 — :jIoulins 154. 
 
 — Ouches 216. 229. 
 
 — Piton^ 187. 
 
 — Planches 197. 
 
 — Planes 157. 
 
 — Ponts 170. 
 
 — Praz 220. 224. 
 
 — Pres Hauts 220. 
 
 — Rousses 190. 
 
 — Tines 220. 224. 
 
 — Trubots 215. 
 
 — Vallettes 206. 
 
 — Vaux 242. 
 
 — Verrieres 171. 
 Lesa 374. 
 Letze, the 300. 
 Leuk 150. 255. 
 — , Baths of 148. 
 iLeukelbach 294. 
 iLeventina, the 82. 
 ILezzeno 385. 
 Lichtenberg, castle 3i6. 
 Lichtensteig 291. 
 Liciniforum 387. 
 Liddes 236. 
 
 Liechtenstein, ruins 285 
 — , princip. of 283. 
 Lierna 386. 
 
 Liestal 7. 
 ;Lieu, le 176. 
 
 Ligerz 9. 
 
 Lignerolles 177. 
 
 Limraat, the 16. 19. 27. 
 etc. 
 
 Limmern-Bach, the 295. 
 
 Limonta 386. 
 
 Linard, Piz 337. 
 jLindau 33. 
 JLinth, the 38. 296. 
 
 Linth-Canal, the 42. 
 
 — . Colonv uf the 43. 
 
 Linththar294. 
 I Lira, the 358. 359. 
 ILittau 91.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 405 
 
 Liverognc 234. 
 Livigno 340. 343. 
 Livinen-Thal, tlie S2. 
 Lizernc, the 244. 254. 
 Locarno 369. 
 — , Lake of 369. 
 Lochbcrg, the 138. 
 Lochlipa^s, the 307. 
 Locle, Le 169. 
 Loeche-Ville 150. 255. 
 
 — -les-Bains 148. 
 Lollelhorn, the 140. 
 Loaes, Col des 168. 
 Loggio 380. 
 Lohner, the 145. 
 Lombach, the 105. 
 Lomiuiswvl 12. 
 Lona, Pas cle 247. 
 London, the 208. 
 Longeborgne 245. 
 Longin Glacier, the 327. 
 Longone 387. 
 Lijntsch, the 305. 
 Lonza, the 251. 
 Lopper, the 88. 
 
 St. Lorenz, ruins 353. 
 Lorze, the 32. 47. 
 Li3ses, Alp 45. 
 liosonium 191. 
 Lostallo 364. 
 Lotschen Glacier, the 142. 
 
 251. 
 Lotschenliicke, the 142. 
 
 — Pass, the 252. 
 Lotschenthal, the 251 
 Liitschenthal Grat , 
 
 251. 
 Loueche s. Loeche. 
 Lourtier 242. 
 Lovagny 210. 
 Loveno 383. 
 Lovera 343. 
 Lowenbach, the 259. 
 Lowenberg, castle 308. 
 Lovverz 55. 
 Lowerz, island of 55. 
 Luberg 7. 
 St. Luc 249. 
 
 Lucciago, Madonna di 376 
 Lucendro, Piz 80. 
 Lucendro, Lake of 80. 
 Lucerne 49. 
 — , Lake of 63. 
 Luchsingen 294. 
 Ludwiiishafen 20. 
 Lueg, the 13. 
 Lugano 366. 
 — , Lake of 380. 
 Lugede 298. 
 Lugein 251. 
 
 Lugnetz Valley, the 303. 
 Luino 371. 
 
 !Luknianier, the 313. 
 Lumino 364. 
 iLungenstutz 76. 
 {Lungern GO. 
 I—, Lake of CO. 
 Liiner Lake, the 350. 
 Liisch, Lake of 355. 
 Liisel, the 5. 
 Lustbiihl, the 107. 
 Lutisburg 291. 
 Lutry 162. 193. 199. 
 Lutschine, the 105. 110 
 
 116. 
 — , the Black 110. 117. 
 — , the White 110. 
 Luttingen 18. 
 Liitzelau, island of 40. 
 Luvino s. Luino. 
 Luvis 303. 
 Luzein 316. 
 
 St. Luziensteig, the 284. 
 iLys, chalets de 275. 
 Lys Joch, the 275. 
 Lyskamm, the 275. 378. 
 Lys-Valley, the 378. 
 Lyss 7. 
 Lvssach 13. 
 
 jMaag, the 43. 
 placcagno 371. 
 Ijlacugnaga 263. 
 [Madatsch - Glacier , the 
 I 345. 
 
 Spitz, the 345. 
 
 the|3Iadcranerthal, the 76. 
 iMadesimo, the 357. 359. 
 j— , Passo di 357. 
 
 Madonna di Gallivaggio 
 ! 359. 
 
 — di Lucciago 376. 
 
 — di S. Martino 384. 
 
 — del Sasso on the Lago 
 Maggiore 369. 
 
 near the Lake of 
 
 Orta 377. 
 
 Madonna di Tirano 341. 
 
 3Iadulein 336. 
 
 Magadino 369. 
 
 St. Masdalene, Hermitasxc 
 
 161.^ 
 !Mag!iia, the 369. 
 jMaggia, Val 144. 370. 
 I Maggiore, Laiio 370. 
 
 Magland 215. 
 
 Masjliaso 380. 
 
 Magnin, Forest of 227. 
 
 Magreglio 388. 
 
 Maienwand, the 136. 
 iMaikirch 163. 
 
 Mainau, Island of 23. 
 
 Maing Glacier, the 149. , 
 
 JIainghorn s. Torrent- 
 horn. 
 
 Maira, the S.59. 360. 
 
 Maison Blanche , Col de 
 la 236. 
 
 Majoria. castle 254. 
 
 Maladeyre 196. 
 
 Malans 2S4. 
 
 St. 3Ialchus , Chapel of 
 60. 
 
 Malenco . the Valley of 
 327. ' 
 
 Malero. the 342. 
 
 Malesco 370. 
 
 Mali.x 322. 
 
 jMalleray 6. 
 
 ■Maloggia, the, or 
 
 iMaloja 326. 362. 
 
 Mais 346. 
 
 3Ialser Heide, the 347. 
 
 3Ialters 91. 
 
 I St. Mametto 380. 
 
 !Mandello 386. 
 
 Mangeli 40. 
 
 Mannedorf 39. 
 
 Mannenburg, Castle 154. 
 
 Mjinuigrund, Valley of 
 150. " 
 
 Mannlichen, the 113. 
 
 Mapas, the 225. 
 
 3Iapellio 386. 
 
 Marcellaz 210. 
 
 3Iarcheiruz, Asile de 176. 
 
 — , Col de 176. 
 
 Marchino, Villa 36S. 
 
 S. Marco 260. 
 
 Marengo, defile de 237. 
 
 St. Margarethen 283. 288. 
 
 St. Margarethenkapf 350. 
 
 3Iargna, Piz della 324. 
 
 Margorabbia, the 371. 
 iMargozzolo, Monte 376. 
 Is. 3Iaria detrli Angioli 
 I 367. 
 !— Maggiore 370. 
 
 — della Salute, chapel 
 83. 
 
 iSt. Maria der Engeln, 
 
 monastery 291. 
 S. Maria, Hospice on the 
 
 Lukraanier 313. 
 
 — in the Jliinsterthal 
 337. 344. 
 
 — in the Engadine 327. 
 
 Sonnenber2, Chapel 
 
 I 71. 
 
 — on the Stelvio 344. 
 Mariahilf, Chapel 79. 
 — , Nunnery of 56. 
 Marienbcru <>n the Et-ioh 
 
 346. 
 
 — near Rorschach 37.
 
 406 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Marjelen, Lake of 141. 
 3Iarkelfingen 20. 
 Marlens 212. 
 Marmore. Monte 328. 
 ilarmorera 324. 
 Maroggia 365. 
 Marscholhorn, the 863. 
 Marsoel 290. 
 Miirstetten 34. 
 Marthalen 26. 
 Martignv 203. 
 Martignv - le - Bourg 203. 
 
 226. ' 
 St. Martin in the Kalfeu- 
 
 ser-Thal 45. 
 
 — in the Lugnetz-Vallev 
 308. 
 
 — near Sallanches 215. 
 Martinach 203. 
 
 S. Martino on the Lake 
 
 of Lugano 365. 
 — . Madonna di 384. 
 — , il Sasso 384. 
 3Iartinsbruck 339. 
 Martin-^loch, the 306. 308. 
 Martinstobel, the 37. 
 Masein 354. 
 Masino 376. 
 Masone 261. 
 Ma.«:.sa, the 142. 257. 
 Massari, Piz 82. 
 Ma.sses, les 155. 
 Mas.songer 208. ! 
 
 Masuccio, Piz 342. ' 
 
 Mastallone, Val 378. 
 Matt 294. 305. 
 Matt, the 142. 
 Matten near Interlakcn 
 
 104. I 
 
 — near Lauterbrunnen 
 109. 112. I 
 
 — in the Upper Sim- 
 menthal 150. 151. 
 
 ^latterhorn, the 273. 
 — . the Little 267. 
 Matterjoch, the 269. 274. 
 Matth()rn, the 53. 
 Mattmarkalp. the 264. 
 Mattmarksee. the 265. 
 Mattwaldgrat, tlie 267. 
 Matlwaldhorn, the 267. 
 Mauen<oe. the 14. 
 St. Maurice 201. 
 S. Maurizio. Monte 387. 
 Mauvais Pa.«, the 219. 
 Mauvoisin 242. 
 Maven 131. 
 
 Mavenbach. the 77. 131. 
 Jlayenfeld :>84. 
 Mayenreusss. Mavenbach. 
 Mayenschanz, the 131. 
 Medels in theRheimv. 362. 
 
 Medels Glacier 312. 
 
 I—, Mompe 312. 
 
 Medelser Thai, the 312. 
 
 Medjekopf, the 316. 
 
 Meersburg 21. 
 
 Megeve 211. 
 
 Meggen 48. 
 
 Meggenhorn, the 69. 
 
 Meglisalp, the 282. 
 
 Mehlbach. the 88. 
 
 Meiden 220. 
 
 Meiden Pas.s, the 250. 
 
 Meigeren 261. 266. 
 
 Meilen 39. 
 
 Meillerie 205. 
 
 Meina 374. 
 
 St. Meinrad , Chapel of 
 
 298. 
 Meiringen 124. 
 Melano 365. 
 Melch-Aa, the 89. 
 Melchalp, the 130. 
 Melchsee, the 89. 130. 
 Melchthal. the 89. 
 Meldeag, the 37. 
 Melide 365. 
 Mellau 351. 
 Mellichen Glacier 265. 
 — Valley 265. , 
 
 Melligberc, the 266. 
 Mels 45. ^ : 
 
 Melzi, Villa 383. I 
 
 Meuagsio 382. I 
 
 Mendrisio 366. i 
 
 Menoge. the 214. ' 
 
 Menouve. Glac. de 237. 
 Menthon, Chateau 212. 
 Mentue, the 172. 
 Menzberg, the 91. 
 3Ienzingen 40. 
 Mer de glace, the, near 
 
 Chamouny 219. 
 — , near Grindehvald 118. 
 3Iera .s. Maira. 
 Merligen 103. lOi. 
 Meschino 341. 
 Mesmer, the 282. ' 
 
 Mesocco 364. 
 Me.-^oleina, Val 363. 
 Mettelhorn. the 276. 
 Mettenberg', the 118. 
 3Iettlen 281. 
 Meverhof 308. 
 Mevrin 208. 
 Mezdi, Piz 337. 
 Mezza Selva 316. 
 Mezzem, Piz 336. 
 Mezzola, Lago di 359. 
 Miage, Glacier de 232. 
 St. Michael, Chapel of 62. 
 St. Michel, Piz 318. 354. 
 S. Michek- 144. 
 
 Midi, Dent du 207. 
 Migiandone 261. 
 Milan 388. 
 Milar. Val 311. 
 Milez 311. 
 Millerez 205. 
 Mine. Mont 246. 
 Minschun, Piz 338. 
 Miolans. castle 211. 
 Misaun, Alp 333. 
 Mischabel, the 257. 26S. 
 Misox, ruins 364. 
 Miso.xer Thai, the 364. 
 Mission 248. 
 Mitlodi 293. 
 Mittaggiipfi, the 52. 
 Mittaghorn, the 152. 
 Mittagstluh', the 153. 
 Mittelberg, the 330. 
 Mittelholz 146. 
 Mittelhorn, the 122. 252. 
 Mittel-Rhein. the 310. 313. 
 Mittelzell 20.' 
 Mittenberg, the 290. 
 Mitter-See. the 347. 
 Moesa, the 83. 363. 
 Moesola. Lago 363. 
 — , Piz 363. 
 
 Moine, Aiguille du 220. 
 Moirv, Glacier de 247. 
 — , Val 247. 
 Mole, the 214. 
 Moleson, the 157. 
 Moliniira, castle 284. 
 Molins 323. 
 Mollia 378. 
 3Iollis 292. 
 Mologia, the 326. 
 Moltra.sio 385. 
 Mouiing, Glacier du 248. 
 Mompe Medels 312. 
 
 — Tavetsch 310. 
 Monaster ium Eremitaruiit 
 
 299. 
 Monate, Lago di 376. 
 Monaye, Gallerie 235. 
 Moncii, the 116. 
 — , the Black 114. 
 Miinchsjoch, the 119. 
 Mondatsch, the 345. 
 Mondelli Pass, the 263. 
 Mondloch, the 5i. 
 Monnetier 187. 
 Mons 320. 
 
 Mons Angel rum 86. 
 Monstein in the Davos 318- 
 
 — on the Rhine 283. 
 3Iontafuuerthal. the 350. 
 Montagna s. Heinzenberg. 
 Montagues maudites. les 
 
 218. 
 Montaenicr 242.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 407 
 
 Montaraskerbach. the 328, 
 Montanvert 218. 
 Montbenon, the 193. 
 Mont Blanc, the 222. 
 Muntbovun 158. 
 ]\Iontcherand 1T7. 
 Mont Durand, Glacier du 
 
 242. 
 Monterone s. Motterone. 
 Montets, les, near Servoz 
 
 215. 
 — near Trelechamp 224. 
 Monthev 206. 
 Montjoie Vallev, the 230. 
 Mont' Joli 230. 
 Montmeillan 193. 
 .^lontmt-lian 210. 
 ^ifintmirail 164. 
 Jlontmollin 170. 
 Mtintort'ano 387. 
 Montoz, the 6. 
 Montreux 197. 
 -. Bale de 197. 
 Mont Rouge, Col du 247. 
 Montsalvens, ruins 153. 
 3Ionza 388. 
 Morast 143. 
 Moral i&i. 
 — . Lake of 164. 
 Murbegno 342. 
 Morcles, Dent de 201. 
 Morel 142. 
 Jlorgartcn 300. 
 Morge, the, in Sav. 206. 
 
 — in the Cant, of Valai;; 
 244. 254. 
 
 Morgen, the 263. 
 .Morgenberghorn, the 109. 
 Morges 191. 
 — . the 175. 
 Morgex 234. 
 Morgin 207. 
 
 Morgozzolo s. Motterone 
 Morignone 343. 
 Morimont 6. 
 St. Moritz 328. 
 — . Bath.s of 329. 
 — . Lake of 329. 
 Morlischachen 48. 
 Mornex 187. 
 Moro, Monte 264. 
 Morsburg s. Meersburg. 
 Mor.schach 71. 
 Morschwyl 36. 
 Miirsperg 6. 
 Mort. Mont 239. 
 Morterat.sch. Piz 335. 
 
 — Glacier 833. 
 Mortirolo, Monte 342. 
 Morzine 205. 222. 
 Moschelhorn, the 363. 
 Motiers 171. 
 
 Motta, la 340. 
 Mottelipchlos,*. the 37. 
 Motterone. Monte 375. 
 Mottet 231. 
 Moutier in the Jura 6. 
 
 — en Tarentai.se 234. 
 — , Val 5. 
 
 Moveran, the Grand 243. 
 Miihleberg 164. 
 Muhlehorn 44. 
 Miihlen 323. 
 Miihlenen 145. 
 Miihlenthal, the 131. 
 Miihlethal 44. 
 IMuhlhausen 20. 
 
 Miihlibach . the . near 
 Brienz 125. 
 
 — on the Faulhorn 120. 
 Muldain 319. 
 Mulcts, the Grands 223. 
 Mulheim 34. 
 
 Miilinen in the Kander 
 , Thai 145. 
 
 — near Interlaken 109. 
 Mulins 307. 
 
 'Mundaun. Piz 308. 
 jMunoth. castle 19. 
 'Mun.«ingen 99. 
 Miinster on the Birs 6. 
 
 — on the Lake of Con- 
 stance 20. 
 
 — in the Valais 140. 
 Miinsterthal, the, in the 
 
 Canton of Grisons 337. 
 3U. 
 
 — in the Jura 5. 
 Miinsterlingen 23. 
 Muot, near Sils 327. 
 
 — Selvas, the 327. 
 Muottas. the 330. 
 Muotta 303. 
 
 — , the 55. 302. 303. 
 Muranza Val lev, the 344. 
 Miiras. the 319. 
 Muraun, Piz 310. 
 Muraz 206. 244. 
 Murdaun, Piz 308. 
 Muretto Pa.ss. the 327. 
 Muretto, Piz 324. 
 Is. Murezzan 328. 
 'Murg on the Rhine 18. 
 
 — on the Lake of Wal- 
 lenstadt 44. 
 
 — , the 18. 34. 44. 
 Murgalp, the 45. 
 Murgonthal 9. 
 Murgthal. the 44. 
 JIuri, abbey 31. 
 Jliirren 112. 
 Miirrenbach. the 112. 
 Murten 164. 
 Murtener See^ the 164. 
 
 Miirt.<<chen8tock. the 44. 
 
 Musella, Monte 334. 
 
 Musenalp. the 73. 
 
 Mupocco 375. 
 
 3Iu.^so 382. 
 
 Mustail 354. 
 
 Muster 309. 
 
 Muttbach. the 137. 
 
 Mutten 303. 320. 354. 
 
 Muttenz 7. 
 
 3Iutthorn. the, in the 
 
 Bernese Alps 147. 251. 
 '— near the Furca 79. 139. 
 iMuttlerspitz, the 339. 
 Muttnerhorn, the 354. 
 Muzzano. Lake of 380. 
 Mvlius, Villa 383. 
 Mythen, the 55. 
 Mythenstein s. Wyten- 
 
 stein. 
 
 Nadla. the 112. 
 
 ^'afels 292. 
 
 yageli's Gratli 136. 
 
 Xair. Piz 329. 
 
 Xairs 338. 
 
 >:aluns, Muotta 338. 
 
 ^'andro, Val 322. 
 
 Xangy 214. 
 
 yiinikon 41. 
 
 ^'ant, the Bon- 215. 
 
 — , the Grand- 220. 
 
 Nant Borant, Chal. de 
 
 • 230. 
 
 — :N'oir, the, on the Col 
 
 de Balme 227. 
 ^'apf. the 91. 
 Xapoli, Villa 386. 
 ^arasca Alp, the 306. 
 Narrenbach 150. 
 Xase. the 104. 
 >'asen, the 69. 
 >'aters 142. 
 ^^^ude^s 339. 347. 
 >:audersberg. Castle 347. 
 Navisanche. the 248. 
 ^'avo, theRochers de 197. 
 Naz 321. 
 Nebikon 14. 
 Neftenbach 26. 
 Xendar, Val do 254. 
 Nera Pa.^s. the 81. 
 ]J\ernier 204. 
 ^ero. Monte 334. 
 Nesselboden-Alp, the 12. 
 Nesselthal, the 131. 
 Xesslau 291. 
 Xessleren 109. 
 >:ess(^ 385. 
 Nesthorner. the 252. 
 Nettstall 292.
 
 408 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Kufenen in the Rhein-lOdescalclii, Villa, s. Villa 
 
 waldthal 362. 
 'Xufenen Pass, the 139. 
 Xuolen. baths ot 41. 
 Xurschallas, Piz 311. 
 Nus 270. 
 Xuveina 362. 
 i-uiu ofXvon 190. 
 
 Raimondi. 
 
 Keubriicke, the, in thei 
 
 Visp-Valley 263. 
 Xeuchatel 165. 
 — . Lake of 172. 
 yeudorf 37. 
 Neuenburg 165. 
 Xeueneck"l59. 
 Neu-Habsburg 
 ^49. ' , \ 
 
 Xeuhaus, near UnterseeniObeche, T 248. 
 
 104. lOber-Aarhorn, the 141. 
 
 Xeuhausen 19. 25. lObei-Aaralacier. the 134.'Oetzthal, the 346. 
 
 Neu St. Johann 291. iOber-Aarjoch, the 135. lOfen-Pass, the 337. 
 
 Neumunster 39. lOber-AIbis 33. lOggebbio 372. 
 
 Neunkirch 19. lOberalp, the 312. lOiseau, the Bel- 225. 
 
 Xeu-Toagenburg, ruins Oberalpsee. the 312. Olcio 386. 
 
 291. jOberalpstock, the 77. Oldenalp, the Upper 156. 
 
 Neuveville 10. Ober-Badeu s. Bad Leuk. Oldenhorn, the 156. 
 
 Xeu-Wartburg, Castle 8. Ober-Bauen, the 71. [Olimpino, Monte 366. 
 
 St.yicolasdeVeroce230.'Oberberg, the 109. Olivone 313. 
 
 St. Xicolaus in the Visp- Oberbleggisee, the 294. lOllen, il Passo d' 373. 
 
 Oen, Ova d" 327. 
 \Oeni Gadina 325. 
 'Ocrlikon 34. 
 jOesch 154. 
 Oeschinen, Alp 113. 
 I— , the Glacier of 146. 
 — -Grat, the 113. 
 — , Lake of 113. 146. 
 Thai, the 146. 
 
 Vallev 263. 
 Xidau 9. 
 
 Kidelbad, the 39. 
 Mdfurn 294. 
 Xidwalden 84. 
 Xieder-Bauen, the 71. 
 Xiedergestelen 256. 
 IS'iedei-Rawvl 152. 
 Xiederried 126. 
 Xieder-Schonthal 7. 
 Niederwald 140. 
 Isiederwvl 9. 
 Xie.?en, the 101. 
 — . the Hinter- 102. 
 Xiesenegg, the 102. 
 Xiggelingen 256. 
 St. Niklaus 268. 
 St. Xiklausen 89. 
 Moue 248. 
 
 Kivolet, Dent de 210. 
 Xoiraigue 170. 
 KoirOIont, the 190. 
 
 Xolla, the 320. 355. 
 
 Kollen,the, ontheGrimselObersee, the 75. 304, 
 
 134. ;Ober-Spiringen 297. 
 
 — on the Titlis 86. jOberstalden. the 102 
 
 Xordend, theOIonteRosa)iOberstdorf 352. 
 
 263. 274. "Oberstrass 27. 
 
 Xotkerseck, convent 36. Ober-Urnen 292. 
 
 Xotre-Xame de la Gorge Ober-Uzwyl 35. 
 
 lOberdorf 12. Ollomont 242. 
 
 iObere Buchberg. the 42.1—, Val 242. 
 lOber Gabelhorn, the 248. Ollon St. Triphon 200. 
 jObergestelen 139. lOlten 8. 
 
 lOber-Gschwand 61. iOltinsen 15. 
 
 '01>erhalbstein Rhine, the Oltschibach, the 125. 
 
 323. Ome^na 376. 
 
 I— -Thai, the 323. ,Onno 386. 
 
 Ober-Haslithal, the 132. jOr, Mont d^ 175. 
 
 Oberhaupt, the 53. lOrbe 176. 
 
 ^Oberhofen 103. j— , the 177. 
 
 Oberland, the Bernese 98.1 Orden 326. 
 
 Oberlauchringen 19. Ordlegna, the 327. 362. 
 
 Obermatt 131. |Oria 380. 
 
 Obernieilen 39. Ormona 156. 
 
 Ober Rickenbach 73. Ormont-dessous 156. 
 
 Oberricd on the Lake of dessus 155. 
 
 Brienz 126. lOrnavasso 261. 
 
 — in the Rhine -Vallev Oro, Monte d^ 324. 327. 
 i 283. Oron 162. 
 
 jOberrieden 39. |Orse, Val 335. 
 
 lObersaxen 308. Orsera 79. 
 
 Ober-Schonenbach 303. lOrsiera Valley, th 
 
 230. 
 
 — des Hermites 299. 
 
 — du Sex 201. 
 Kottu-yl 14. 
 Xovara 373. 
 Xovel 206. 
 
 Xovenna in the Rhein- 
 
 waldthal 362. 
 — , the Pass 139. 
 Xudri-Bridge 237. 
 Xiifelgiu Pa^s, the 140. 
 
 Obervatz 319. 354. 
 Oberwald 139. 
 Obervveil 47. 
 Obladis 348. 
 Obord 295. 
 Obstalden 44. 
 Obvvalden 89. 
 Oche, Dent d' 206. 
 ,Ochsenblanke. the 295. 
 Ochsenhorn. the 267. 
 'Octodurus 203. 
 
 245. 
 Orsieres 236. 
 lOrsino, Pizzo SO. 
 Orso, Colmo del 3-5S. 
 iOrta 376. 
 '. — , Lago d' 376. 
 jOrtenstein, Castle 353. 
 lOrtler, the 345. 
 jOrtstock, the 296. 
 lOsogna 83. 
 Ossasco 140. 
 lOssola, Val d' 260. 
 ;Osteno 380. 
 iOstermundingen 99. 
 Ot, Piz 330. 
 Ota, Alp 333. 
 Otemma s. Hautomma. 
 Ottersweil 47. 
 Ouches, les 216. 229.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 409 
 
 Ouchy 19i. 
 
 Ova granda, la 327. 
 
 St. Oven 240. 
 
 Padclla, Piz 330. 
 Paese freddo, the 343. 
 Pain de Sucre, the 239. 
 Painsee 248. 
 Paix, lie de 199. 
 Palanzeno 261. 
 Paldi, Villa 335. 
 Palcsieux 234. 
 Palczieux 162. 
 Pallanza 372. 
 Palu, Piz (li 331. 
 
 — Glacier, the 340. 
 Palud 211. 
 Pambio 36S. 
 Pan-a-tots s. Bonaduz. 
 Paneyrossaz, Glac. de 243 
 Panix 306. 
 
 Panix Pass, the 30G. 
 Pantenbriicke, the 293. 
 Parabia^ru 375- 
 Paradies, the 363. 
 Pardella 303. 
 Pardi^^la 315. 
 Pare 3S6. 
 Parpan 322. 
 Parrot-Spitze, the 275. 
 Part-Dieu, convent 157. 
 Paschug- 290. 322. 
 Paspels, Castle 353. 
 Pass 3Ial, the 354. 
 Passalacqua, Villa 385. 
 Pasta, Villa 386. 
 Paterniacum 165. 
 Paudeze,thel62. 193. 199 
 Payerne 165. 
 Paznauner Thai, the 349 
 Pazzallo 368. 
 Peccia 370. 
 Pedenos 343. 
 — , Val 344. 
 Pedriolo Alp, the 264. 
 
 — Glacier 264. 
 Peiden, liath 308. 
 Peist 290. 318. 
 Pelerin, cascade <lu 218. 
 Pel la 377. 
 
 Pellina, Val 245. 
 Pellino, the 377. 
 Penneloci^ or 
 Penniluciis 199. 
 Perdatsch 313. 
 Perralotaz, Pont 217. 
 Pers, Mont 333. 
 — , Isla 333. 33;. 
 Perte du Rhone 20S. 
 Pesciora, Pizzo 80. 
 Pestarena 263. 
 
 iSt. Peter, Hospital on the 
 I Arlberg 349. 
 i— (Grisons) 309. 
 — , Isle of 9. 
 St. Peter and Paul 36. 
 Petersgrat, the 251. 
 Petersrucken, the 26i. 
 jSt. Petersthal 308. 
 iPetit-Sacconnex 1S6. 
 iPetit-Saleve, the 187. 
 Petronella-Chapel 83. 
 PfalTensprung, Bridice 77. 
 PfafVenwand, the 130. 
 Pfafters, Abbev 287. 
 — , Bad 286. 
 — Village 287. 
 jPfiiffikon 298. 
 — , Lake of 41. 
 Ptaid 82. 
 
 Pisciadella 340. 
 
 Pisoc, Piz 339. 
 
 Pissevache, the 202. 
 
 Pitons, les 187. 
 
 Piumegna, the 82. 
 
 Piuro 360. 
 
 Pizzigone, Monte 377. 
 
 Pizzo, Villa 338. 
 
 Plainc des Dames 230. 
 
 Planalp, the 126. 
 
 Planches, les 197. 
 
 Planes, chalet 157. 
 
 Planeira 322. 
 iPlanpraz 221. 
 'Platifer, the 82. 
 iPlatta 312. 
 [— , la 334. 
 
 Platten 257. 269. 
 I—, the 333. 
 
 Pfahaa, the Chalets of 
 : 310. 
 
 I Plunder, the 351. 
 Pfannenstiel, the 39. 
 Pfannstock, the 28. 
 iPfeffingen 5. 
 IPfirt 6. 
 Pfunds 348. 
 
 ;Pfyn (in the Valais) 255 
 iPian Canin 327. 
 Plana, Passo 378. 
 iPianazzo 359. 
 Pianello 382. 
 j Piano d'Erba, il 387. 
 
 — del Tivano, the 385. 
 Pians 349. 
 tPiatta Mala 340. 
 !— Martina 344. 
 Piccola, Valle 378. 
 Pie di Mulera 262. 
 Piece, Glac. de 242. 247. 
 I Pierre adzo, la 207. 
 j— a Berard 222. 
 j — Pertuis 6. 
 
 — pointue, chalet 
 j 223. 
 
 !— des servagios 249. 
 ;— a voir 204. 
 St. Pierre dWlbisnv 211. 
 
 — de la Cluse 171. 
 
 Plattenberg, the 305. 
 Plattenhorn, the 316. 
 Platliberg, the 88. 
 Pleiades, les 195. 
 Pleine, la 20S. 
 Plessur, the 289. 313, 
 Pletschbach, the 111. 
 Pletschen 256. 
 Pleureur, 3Iont 242. 
 Plej-aux s. Pleiades. 
 Pliniana. Villa 385. 
 Plurs 360. 
 
 St. Point, Lake of 171. 
 Pollegiiio 83. 
 Pollonzer-Thal, the 313. 
 Pollux, the 273. 
 Pomuiat, the 143. 
 Pont, al 143. 
 — , le 177. 
 
 — St. 3Iartiu 373. 
 Pontarlier 172. 
 Ponte 336. 
 
 — Chiasso 366. 
 j— del Diavolo 343. 
 
 lal— Grande 262. 
 
 — S. Pietr.j 386. 
 
 — Tresa 380. 
 Pontet 230. 
 
 Pontlatz Bri.lge, the 348. 
 Pontresina 331. 
 
 — , castle near Aost 
 
 3Iont-Joux 236. 
 
 Pieterlen 9. 
 IPiiiueu, Bathes of 356. 
 Piiatus. the 52. 
 Pillon, Col de 155. 
 iPiodc 378. 
 
 Piora, Val 81. 310. 313, 
 Piottino, Monte 82. 
 Piotto 82. 
 Pioverna, the 382. 
 St. Pirminsberg 287. 
 Pischa, la 332. 334. 
 
 234. Ponts, Les 170. 
 
 — , les Petits 170. 
 
 Poraretaz, the 243. 
 
 Porcherv 242. 
 iPorlezza 380. 
 IPorrentruv 5. 
 iPort Alban 172. 
 I— Valais 206. 
 I Porta da Spescha , the 
 
 295. 
 I Porte du Sex, la 208. 
 i Porto 372. 
 \Porlu4 VcUlcsiat 206.
 
 410 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Poschiavino, the 340. 341. 
 Poschiavo 341. 
 — . Lago di 341. 
 Pousaz. la 200. 
 Povaz 225. 
 Pozzolo, Pizzo 261. 
 Praborgne 271. 
 Prad 346. 
 Praegallia 360. 
 Pragel, the 304. 
 Prajean 245. 
 Pralatre, the 187. 
 Prangins. castle 190. 
 Praraver 242. 
 Prarion. the 215. 230. 
 Prasanz 323. 
 Fratigovia 314. 
 Pratteln 7. 
 Prattigau. the 314. 
 Praz, les 220. 224. 
 Pre. le 154. 
 — Sec 233. 
 Pregny 186. 
 Premia 144. 
 Premosello 261. 
 Preraven 246. 
 Pre St. Didier 234. 
 Prese. le 341. 
 Pressura. Monte 345. 
 St. Prex 175. 191. 
 S. Primo, Monte 385. 388. 
 Primsch 44. 
 Prina. Villa 372. 
 Promenthoiise , the 175. 
 
 190. 
 Promenthoux 190. 
 Promontogno 361. 
 Prosa. the 80. 
 Proz. Cantine de 237. 
 — . Plan de 237. 
 Pnima, Alp 333. 
 Pr>intr!it 5. 
 Prutz 348. 
 Pulaschin. Piz 327. 
 Pully 193.' 
 
 Piiltmenga. tower 311. 
 Punta di Bellaggio 383. 
 Punt 31artina 339. 
 Punt Ota. Bridge 336. 
 Puschlav 341. 
 Pusiano, Lago di 387. 
 Pyrimont 208. 
 
 Q,uarazza, Val di 378. 
 
 Quarsano 385. 
 
 Quart, chateau 270. 
 
 Quarten 45. 
 
 Quinten 44. 
 
 t;»uinto 82. 
 
 Quirna. the 259. 
 
 Quoira 288. 
 
 Quolm da Pignu, the 306. 
 
 Rabins 309. 
 
 jRabiusa, the (Churwal- 
 
 den) 322. 
 
 (Savierthal) 307. 
 
 'Radolphszell 20. 
 Eagatz 285. 
 Ragnutz. Piz 318. 
 Raimondi. Villa 386. 
 Rakol Vadura 287. 
 Ealligen, castle 103. 
 Ralligsto'cke. the 104. 
 Rambach. the 346. 
 Ramina- Furklen , the 
 
 305. 
 Ramingrat, the 287. 
 Ramplagnas 354. 
 Ramuosch 339. 
 Randa 269. 
 Ranft. the 89. 
 Rang.' Tete de 168. 
 Ranzola-Furke, the 378. 
 Rapperschwvl 40. 
 |— , Bridge oV 40. 298. 
 JRaron 256. 
 
 Raterichsboden , the 134. 
 Raterschen 35. 
 Raetia alia 355. 
 — ima 353. 
 
 Raetikon Chain, the 314. 
 ■ 350. 
 
 Raetionicum 382 
 Rauft, the 128. 
 Rausse. the 6. 
 Raut Glacier, the 259. 
 Rautifelder, the 292. 
 Rautispi'z, the 292. 304. 
 Raverette. la 155. 
 Ravin.s, les 152. 
 RawyK the 151. 
 Rawylhorn, the 152. 
 Razliberg. the 151. 
 Razli Glacier, the 151. 
 Realp 138. 
 
 Realt. Hoch-. ruin 355. 
 Realta. ruin 354. 
 Reams 323. 
 Rebstein 283. 
 Reckingen 140. 
 Regensberg 32. 
 Regoledo 382. 
 ,Rehfobel, the 278. 
 •Reichenau 352. 
 I—, Island of 20. 
 Reichcnbach 145. 
 — , Castle 13. 97. 
 — . the 122. 
 — , Falls of the 123. 
 Reiden 14. 
 Reidenbach 153; 
 Reiselstock. the 28. 
 Reisen. Alp 8. 
 Rells-Thal, the 350. 
 
 S. Remigio . promontorv 
 
 372. 
 Remiis 339. 
 St. Remy 240. 
 Renens 175. 
 Renggli. Alp 109. 
 Rennendorf 6. 
 Reposoir Valley, the 214. 
 Reschen 347. 
 
 Scheideck. the 347. 
 
 See, the 347. 
 
 Resegone di Lecco 387. 
 Resel 379. 
 Resi. the 12. 
 Resy 379. 
 Reuchenette 6. 
 iReulisenberg, the 151. 
 Reuschbach. the 155. 
 .Reuse, the i70. 173. 
 Reuss. the 14. 16. 33 etc. 
 Reutte 351. 
 Rezzonico 382. 
 jRhaziins 353. 
 Rhein, Averser- 356. 
 — . Hinter (Source of the 
 I Rhine) 362. 
 I — . Medelser- or 
 '— ; Mittel- 310. 313. 
 — . Val 357. 362. 
 — , Vorder- 310. 311. 
 Rheineck 283. 
 (Rheinfelden 18. 
 Rheinthal, the Vorder- 
 
 307. 
 Rheinwaldhorn, 
 Rheinwaldthal , 
 
 362. 
 Rhine, the 1. 3. 18. 
 — . the Falls of 23. 
 Rho 375. 
 Rhodan, the 137. 
 Rhodanus 137. 
 Rhone, the 137. 179. etc. 
 — . Glacier of the 137. 
 — ; Perte du 208. 
 Rhonen. the Hohe- 40. 
 
 298. 
 Rhonestock. the 138. 
 Rialt. a 143. 
 Richisau 304. 
 Richterswyl 40. 
 Rickelshausen 20. 
 Rickenbach 56. 85. 
 Riddes 254. 
 Ried on the Inn 348. 
 — . in the Lotschenthal 
 
 251. 
 — . in the Muotta Vallev 
 
 303. 
 — in the Valais 141. 
 Rieder Alp. the 141. 
 Riedern 305. 
 
 the 363. 
 the 357. 
 
 etc.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 411 
 
 Riedmatten . Col de 247. 
 Riedwyl 13.' 
 Riehen 4. 
 Riein 308. 
 Riere, the 255. 
 Kieseten-Grat, the 287. 
 
 305. 
 Rietberg, castle 353. 
 Riflelberg, the 271. 
 Riftel-Chalets 272. 
 
 Rohr 15. 
 
 Rohralpach, the 77. 
 Rohrbachstein. the 152. 
 Rolle 190. 
 Romagnano 378. 
 Romainmolier 176. 
 Romanshorn 34. 
 Romont 162. 
 Ronchetti posta 376. 
 Ronco 371. 
 
 Riffelhorn, the 273. 274. Rond-Chatel, castle 7. 
 RilYelhorn-Lake, the 273. R(.ngellen 355. 
 
 Riggisberg 101. 
 Rial, the 56. 
 
 kulm, the 62. 
 
 Rothstock, the 60. 
 
 Scheideck 65. 
 
 — . Staftel 60. 
 Higidalstock. the 86. 
 Rima 378. 
 Rimasco 378. 
 Rimpfischhorn, the 265. 
 Rinderbuhl 76. 
 Rinderhurner, the 147. 
 Ringelkopf, the 45. 
 Ringelspitz, the 354. 
 Ringgenberg , ruins 107 
 
 126. 
 Rinkenberg 309. 
 Ripaille, ca.stle 205. 
 Rippe, la 190. 
 Riti 132. 
 
 — , Glacier of 131. 
 Ritom, Lake of 81. 
 Ritter Pass, the 141. 
 Ritzingen 140. 
 Ritzligratli, the 120. 
 
 Rorschach 37. 
 
 Roth-See, the 33. 
 Rothstock, the Rigi 60. 
 — , the Engelberger 73. 
 — , the Uri- 73. 
 Roththal, the 114. 
 Rotondo, Pizzo 80. 
 Rotten, the 137. 
 Rougemont 154. 
 Rousseau's Island 180. 
 Rousses, les 190. 
 — , the Lac des 177. 
 Route de Grenoble 210- 
 Rovano, Passo 335. 
 
 RorschacherBerg, the37. Roveredo 364. 
 
 Rosa, Monte 263. 274. 
 iRosalette. the 230. 
 jRosanna, the 349. 
 Rosatsch. Piz 329. 334. 
 JRoseg, Piz 334. 
 I — Glacier 333. 
 1— , Valley of 331. 
 jRosenbach, the 113. 
 [Rosenberg, the, near St. 
 
 Gallen 36. 
 iRosenhorn. the 122. 
 Rosenlaui,' baths of 123. Ruete 13. 
 — Glacier 123. liufi, the 54. 
 
 Rossalp, the 120. Rugen, the kleine 106. 
 
 Rossberg, the 54. Ruinatsch, the 329. 
 
 iRossboden Glacier, the Ruinette, the 242. 
 j 259. Rumillv 209. 
 
 iRossbiihel, the 37. Ruppen, the 283. 
 
 Rosso di Scerscen, Monte Rupperschwvl 15. 
 I 331. Rusa, la 340" 
 
 Ross stock- chain, the 28. Riischlikon 39. 
 
 Rovio 366. 
 Rozberg, the 88. 
 Rozloch. the 88. 
 Rubigen 99. 
 Riiblehorn, the 154. 
 Ruggen, the Grosse 
 I 297. 
 iRuden 260. 
 Rudenz, castle 74. 90. 
 Rue 162. 
 Rueras 311. 
 
 (Rossweid, the 61. 
 'Rostmatt. the 304. 
 
 Kiva near the Lake oflRothbach. the 281. 
 Coino 359. RothblattGlacier, the266. 
 
 - in the Sesia- Valley Rcithe , the 11. 
 
 378 
 
 — di Palanzo 387. 
 Riva. Lago di 359. 
 Rivage, le 186. 
 
 Rivaz St. Saphorin 199. 
 
 Rive 191. 
 
 — . auf dor 263. 
 
 Riviera, the 83. 
 
 Roc Noir, the 249. 
 
 S. Rocco 313. 
 
 Roche in the Jura 6. 
 
 — on the Rhone 200. 
 Roche Fendue, the 169. 
 
 — Percee, la 225. 
 Roches Cul des 169. 
 Rodunt-Bridgo, the 80. 
 Roftel. Cima di 275. 
 Roiria-Ravine, the 357. 
 Rotlna 323. 
 Roggenhorn, the 316. 
 Roggwvl 9. 
 
 Rugnoii, the 223. 
 
 Rothegg. the 86. 
 Rothe Eck, the 109. 
 
 — Kummen, the 273 
 
 — Totzen, the 52. 
 !— Wand, the 352. 
 JRothenberg 154. 
 'Rothenbrunnen 353. 
 Rothenburg 14. 
 
 'Rothentliih, the, 
 [ Fitzenau 69. 
 ' — near Goldau 61 
 
 Rusein, Piz 295. 
 — , Val 295. 310. 
 Ruseiner Tobel, the 309- 
 Russille, la 177. 
 Ruthi in the Rhine Vallev 
 280. 283. 
 
 — nearRapperschwyl42. 
 
 — near Stachelberg" 294. 
 Riitli, the 72. 
 
 Ruz, Val de 168. 
 Ryalt, Hoch-, ruin 355. 
 Rymplischhoru , the 265- 
 
 near Saane s. Sarine. 
 Saanen 154. 
 — Miiser, the 154. 
 
 — near Lauterbr. 110. Saas im Grund. in the 
 Rothenthurni 300. Valais 267. 
 Rothgratli, the 73. Saas in thePrattigau 316. 
 Rothhorn, the Brienzer Saasberg, the 294. 
 
 126. Saas-Pass, the 261. 
 
 — , the Sigriswvler 104. Saasgrat, the 257. 
 — , the WalliseV 134. Sacconnex 186. 
 
 — near Zermatt 272. 275. Sadiseln 90. 
 
 Rothihorn, the 121. 
 Rothkreuz 33. 
 Ruthloch, the 134. 
 
 Sackingen IS. 
 Sacro Monte . tht 
 1 Orta 376. 
 
 near
 
 412 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sacro Monte near VaralloiSasso Rancio. il 332. 
 
 377. Satisnv 203. 
 
 Safienthal, the 307. 'Satter302. 
 
 Sagens 303. Siitteli. the 129. 
 
 Sa^erou, Col du 207.222. Sau^e/la 165. 
 
 Sagi Glacier, the 147. 
 Sagisthal See. the 121. 
 Sagliains, Val 316. 
 Sasne, Mont 169. 
 — Vallev, the 170. 
 Saillon 253. 
 Sajento, the 341. 
 Sala 335. 
 
 Salenton, Col de 221. 
 Sales 162. 
 Saletz 233. 
 Saleve, Mont 137. 
 Sal^esch 150. 
 Salins 172. 
 Saljoan 233. 
 Sallanches 215. 
 Salle, la 234. 
 Sallenche, the 202. 209. 
 Salliere, Tour 203. 
 Salorino 366. 
 Saltine, the 257. 253. 
 Salux 320. ?23. 
 
 saugern o. 
 Sausbach. the 109. 
 Saut du Chien, the 244 
 Savierbach, the 307. 
 Savierberg, the 307. 
 Savosnin 323. 
 iSax 23.3. 
 
 Saxe, la, bath 232. 
 — , Mont de 232. 
 Saxer Lucke, the 233. 
 Saxeten 109. 
 iSaxetenbach, the 109. 
 .Saxon, Baths of 253. 
 Scala, Lago della 333. 
 Scaletta-Pass, the 317. 
 Scanfs 336. 
 Scarl. vallev of 338. 
 Scarljochl, 'the 333 
 jScerscen Glacier, 
 
 334. 
 Scerneniin 243. 
 Scesaplana, the 350, 
 
 S. Salvadore, Monte 363. Schaalbriickt 
 
 Salvagnv 222. 
 Salvan 226. 
 Samaden 330. 
 Samedan 330. 
 Samoens 207. 222. 
 Samtis-See, the 282. 
 Sand-Alp. Lower 295. 
 — , Upper 295. 
 Sandalp Pass. 
 
 310. 
 Sandbach, the 295. 
 Sand Glacier, the 310. 
 Sandfirn, the 295. 
 Sanetsch, the 157. 
 Sanetschiiorn, the 156. 
 Sanfleuron Glacier 244 
 Sanna, the 349. 
 
 St. Saphorin 163. 193. 199. Schan-nau 109 
 Sardona Glacier, the 305. Schanis 42. 
 
 the 105 
 the 75. 
 
 Schachen 91. 
 Schachenbach 
 
 297. 
 'Schachenthal, the 75. 
 jSchadau. chateau 101. 
 'Schadenburg, the 107. 
 Schadorf 75. 
 Schafber-, the 292. 
 the 295.:Schafboden, the 282. 
 Schaffhausen 19. 
 Schatle's Eck 231. 
 Schafmatt, the 15. 
 Schalbet-Gallery, the 253. 
 Schams 358. 
 — Vallev of 356. 
 Schanfiggthal, the 318. 
 
 321 ^ 
 
 Scheideck. the Susten 
 
 131. 
 — , the Weugern 116. 
 Scherzligen 100. 103. 
 Scheuss, the 6. 
 Scheye, the 304. 
 Schienhorn, the 142. 
 Schiers 315. 
 Schilan, the 350. 
 Schildhorn, the, near the 
 vallev of Gastern 2;>2. 
 Schilt, "the 293. 
 Schilthorn, the (near 
 
 Miirren) 112. 
 Schindellegi 297. 
 Schinznach 15. 
 Schinznach, Baths of 15. 
 Schirmensee 40. 
 Schlagstrasse, the 302. 
 Schlamuierspitz, the 339. 
 Schlaus 309. 
 Schlappiuer Joch, the 
 350. 
 theSchlarigna 330. 
 
 jSchlauche, the finstei-e 
 j 132. 
 
 Schlechtenvvaldegg. the 
 ! 102. 
 
 iSchlerms 339. 
 Schleuis 303. 
 jSchlieren 17. 
 ISchlierenbach, the 53. 
 [Schlossberg, castle 10. 
 I — , the, nearBregeuz 351. 
 the, near the Surenen- 
 
 tjargans 45. 234. 
 Sarine, the 153. 154 
 
 etc. 
 
 Sarmieux 227. 
 Sarnen 89. 
 — . Lake of 89. 
 — ; Valley of 89. 
 Sarner, Aa. the 89. 
 Sarra, la, castle 234. 
 Sasa plana 357. 
 Sassalbo, Pizzo 341. 
 Sassella 342. 
 Sasseneire. the 247. 
 Sasso del ferro. il 372. 
 — S. 3Iartino 334. 
 
 Schaniser Berg, the 42. 
 160 Scharaus 319. 
 Scharina 311. 
 
 I- 
 
 I pass '87. 
 — Glacier, the 75. 
 'Schlossfelsen, the 73. 
 jSchluderns 346. 
 ISchmadribach, Fall ui 
 
 the 112. 
 Schmerikon 41. 
 Schmitten in the Davos 
 ! 315. 
 
 I — near Freiburg 160. 
 ! — in the Prattigau 318. 
 Schnan 349. 
 Schnanerbach, the 349. 
 Schneehorn, the, on the 
 
 Jungfrau 115. 
 
 iSchattenburg, ruins 350. — near the Spliigen 3.53. 
 ISchaubhorn, the 134. Schneidehorn, the 152. 
 iSchauenburg, ruins 7. Schnepfau 351. 
 Scheerhorn, the 296. iSchnurtobel, the 59. 
 
 iScheibenstoll. the 43. Schollbers, the 28^3. 
 i Scheideck, the Great 122. Schollenen, the 77. 
 
 — , the Hasli 122. 
 
 I — , the Lauterbrunnen 
 
 116. 
 I—, the Little 116. 
 — , the Reschen 347. 
 j— , the Rigi 65. 
 
 Schiinboden, the 29S. 
 
 Schonbiihl 13. 
 iSchonegg Pass, the 73. 
 iSchonenbach, Ober- 303- 
 iSchonenwerth 15. 
 iSchonfels 47.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 413 
 
 Schonihriick, the 77. 
 Schopernau iiol. 
 Schorriiluh. the 150. 
 Schratton, the 95. 
 -Schreckhorn, the 116. 
 
 iScuol 338. 
 ISednin 311. 
 < Sedunum 254. 
 Seeboden-Alp. the 61 
 Seedorf 73. 
 
 Schreienltach, the water- Seehorn. the 151, 
 
 fall of the 295. 
 Schrienen. Alp 45. 
 Schrctcken . the 351. 
 Schrim« 350. 
 Schuls 338. 
 Schiipfen 7. 
 Schiipflieim 91. 
 Schurtentluh, the 150. 
 Schwahhorn, the 121. 
 Schwalmern, the 109. 
 Schwanau. island of 55- 
 
 jSeelisberg 71. 
 iSeelisbertrer Kulm. 
 : 71. ^ 
 |Seemattli. the 134. 
 ISeewen 55. 302. 
 ISeewinen Glacier, 
 
 264. 
 ISeewis 315. 
 Seez 234. 
 I—, the 45. 
 ISctinliitschine. the 112 
 
 Schwanden, on the Lake Segl 327. 
 
 of Brienz 125. 
 — in the Canton of Gla- 
 
 rus 293. 
 Schwandi s. Schwendi. 
 Schwandifluh, the 72. 
 Schwarenhach 147. 
 Schwarzach 351. 
 Schwarzltach . the 147. 
 
 ,— , Lej da 327. 
 ISeglio. Lago di 327. 
 
 Segnas 310. 
 
 Segnes Pass, the 306. 
 jSegnes-Spitz. the 306. 
 
 Segrino. Lago del 387. 
 
 Seigne. Col de la 231. 
 jSeillon, Glacier de 247 
 
 Schwarzbrunnen, the 129.'Seissa, Sur 323. 
 the 
 
 Schwarze Glacier 
 
 147. 
 SchwarzeM(incb, the 114 
 Schwarzenbach 35. 
 Schwarzenberg 351. 
 — Glacier, the 265. 
 Schwarzenburg 101. 
 Schwarze See, the, 
 
 Davos 317. 
 
 Sela, the 327 
 
 Selbsanft, the 294. 
 
 Selden 146. 
 
 Selden. Im 252. 
 
 Sclkingen 140. 
 
 Sella Pass, the 334. 
 i— , Piz 334. 
 fhe'Sella-See. the 81. 
 iSelun, the 43. 
 
 Schwarzfirn Glacier, thetSelva 311. 
 
 73. — , Mezza 316. 
 
 Sclnvarzhorn , the, nearlSelzach 9. 
 
 tlie Faulhorn 121. ISembrancher 235. 
 
 — near the Fluela-PasslSementina, the 369. 
 317. Semmerikopf, the 292. 
 
 — in the Yalais 250. Sempach 14. 
 Schwarz-See. the 275. — , Lake of 14. 
 Schwarzthor, the 275. Sempione 259. 
 Schwarzwald Glacier, thelSemsales 157. 
 
 122. iSengg 128. 
 
 Schwarzwasser , the lOl.jSengias, Piz da 306. 
 Schwcgmatt, the 272. Senin s. Sanetsch. 
 Schweiningcn 323. Senk, am 259. 
 
 Schweizer-Thor, the 315.|Sennebrunnen, the 304 
 
 350. Sennkopf, the 350. 
 
 Schwellau, the 304. iSennwald 283. 
 
 Schwendenthal , the 150. Sense, the 101. 159. 
 Schwendi 282. " jSent 339. 
 
 Schwendiberg, the 89. 'Sentier, le 176. 
 Schwerzcnbach 41. Sentieraben. the 102. 
 
 Schwyz 55. Sentis, the 282. 
 
 Schynige Platte, the 107. — . lake of 282. 
 Schyn Pas<^. the 319. 354. Sepey. le 155. 156. 
 Schyn-Road, the new 354. Septimer. the 324. 
 Scionzier 214. Serbelloni, Villa 384. 
 
 Scopi, the 313. iSeregno 3i^8. 
 
 Serena. Col de 240. 
 
 Screnbach, the 43. 44. 
 
 Sennenza. Val 378. 
 
 Serneus 316. 
 
 Sernf. the 305. 
 
 — Thai, the 293. 305. 
 
 Scrnio 342. 
 the Serra. La 343. 
 
 Serran 234. 
 
 Serrieres 170. 
 jSertigthal, the 317. 
 thelServiezel. ruin, near 3Iar- 
 tinsbruck 339. 
 IServoz 215. 
 ISesia, the 376. 377. 
 !— Valley, the 377. 
 ISessame, Valle 356. 
 ISesto 388. 
 ISesto-Calende 375. 
 'St. Severin 244. 
 
 Sewelen 283. 
 jSewelistock. the 75. 
 jSex, Notre-Dame du 201. 
 I Sex Rouge, the 155. 
 
 Seyon, the 166. 168. 170. 
 
 Seyssel 209. 
 
 Sidelhorn, the Great 135. 
 — , the Little 135. 
 Siders 255. 
 Sidlialp. the 138. 
 Sieben Brunnen, the 151. 
 Siebnen 41. 
 
 Siedelen Glacier, the 138. 
 Siegmundsried, castle 
 1 348. 
 jSierre 255. 
 [Siggenthal 19. 
 ^Signalkuppe, the (Monte 
 ' Rosa) 263. 275. 
 ISignau 92. 
 Signaye 240. 
 Sigriswvl 1(.3. 
 |Sihl, the 17. 27. 33 etc. 
 ISihl-Brucke. the 46. 
 Silberenstock. the 296. 
 Silberhorn, the 115. 
 Silberpass, the 275. 
 Silinen 75. 
 ! Silly 221. 
 
 ISils in the Vpper Enga- 
 I dine 327. 
 
 ]— in the Rheinthal 320. 
 ! 354. 
 
 — Lake of 327. 
 Silvaplana 328. 
 Silvio, Monte 273. 
 Silvretta. the 316. 337. 
 Silvretta Pass, the 316. 
 Sinielihorn. the 121. 
 Siramen. the 101. 145. 
 ; 151 etc. 
 — , Fall of the 151. 
 1—, the Little 154.
 
 414 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Simmeneck, the 153. 
 
 Simmenthal, the 153. 
 
 Simpeln 259. 
 
 Simplon, the 259. 
 
 — Hospice 259. 
 
 Sinestra, Val 339. 
 
 Singen 20. 
 
 Siniiine, the 159. 
 
 Sins 339. 
 
 Sion 254. 
 
 — , monastery of 42. 
 
 — , Mont 213._ 
 
 Sionne, the 254. 
 
 Sirnach 35. 
 
 Sissach 8. 
 
 Sissacher Fluh, the 8. 
 
 Sissikon 72. 
 
 Sissone, Monte 327. 
 
 Sitten 254. 
 
 Sitter, the 35. 281. 
 
 Six-Madun, the 79. 
 
 Sixt 222. 
 
 Soazza 364. 
 
 Soglio 361. 
 
 Solalex 243. 
 
 Solavers, ruins 315. 
 
 Soldo, the 380. 
 
 Solis Bridge, the 354. 
 
 Soleure or 
 
 Solothurn 10. 
 
 Somma 375. 
 
 Sommariva, V. s. V. Car- 
 
 lotta. 
 Sommeraii 8. 
 Sommo d'Oen 330. 
 Sonadon, Col de 236. 242. 
 — , glacier de 236. 242. 
 Sonceboz 6. 
 Sondalo 343. 
 Sondrio 342. 
 Sonnighorn, the 261. 
 Sonvilliers 6. 
 Sonzier 158. 197. 
 Sopra-Villa 387. 
 Soraccia Valley, the 80. 
 Sore-Bois, Cofde 247. 
 Sorenberg 91. 
 Sornico 386. 
 Soyhiere 5. 
 Spanniirter, the 85. 
 Sparrenhorn, the 257. 
 Speer. the 43. 
 Speicher 278. 
 Speluga 357. 
 Spescha, Porta da 295. 
 Spielmatten, island 104. 
 Spiessbach, the 111. 
 Spiessbriicke, the 269. 
 Spiez 103. 145. 
 Spiezwvler 145. 
 Spillau" See, the 310. 
 Spinerbad, the 318. 
 spino 361. 
 
 Spinoel 290. 
 Spiringen 297. 
 Spitalmatt or 
 Spittelmatt, the 147. 
 Spittelmatt-Dala, the 147. 
 Spitzeneck, the 88. 
 Spitzliberg, the 131. 139. 
 Spliidatsch, castle 324. 
 Spliigen 357. 
 
 — Pass, the 358. 
 Spol, the 337. 
 Spondalonga 344. 
 Spondinig 346. 
 Spontiskopfe, the 290. 
 Sprengibriick, the 78. 
 Sprung in the Toggen- 
 
 burg 291. 
 Staad 282. 
 
 — s. Gstaad. 
 Stachelberg, baths of 294. 
 Stafa 40. 
 
 Staffelalp, the 246. 
 StafFeln, the 76. 
 Staffelwald 143. 
 Stalden in the Visp valley 
 
 268. 
 Stalden, 
 
 gel 303. 
 Staldenbach, the 101. 
 Staldenegg, the 102. 
 Staldenried 267. 
 Stalla 3'24. 
 Stallerberg, the 356. 
 Stalusa-Bridge, the 309. 
 Stalvedro in the Grisons 
 
 Steinberg, the Lover 112. 
 — , the Upper 113. 
 — , the Alp 138. 
 Steinen 302. 
 Stein-Glacier, the 131. 
 Steiner Aa, the 302. 
 Steinerberg, the 302. 
 Steinerne Tisch, the 37. 
 
 283. 
 Steinsberg, ruins 338. 
 Stella, Pizzo 376. 
 Stellihorn, the 265. 
 Stelli-See, the 275. 
 Stelvio 346. 
 — Pass, the 345. 
 St. Stephan 150. 
 Stiegenlos, the 12. 
 Stiegli-Egg, the 53. 
 Stierenbach, the 87. 
 Stilfs 346. 
 
 Stille Bach, the 345. 
 Stockach, the 21. 
 Stockalper - Canal, the 
 
 206. 
 Stock Glacier, the 246. 
 Stockenthal, the 101. 
 the, on the Pra- Stockgrat, the 272. 
 
 Stockhorn, the 99. 103. 
 Stockje, the 246. 
 Stoll, Acqua di 361. 
 Storregg, the 89. 
 Storzle, the 303. 
 Stoss, the, near Brunnen 
 
 71. 
 
 324. 
 — , the Stretto di 81. 
 Stampa 361. 
 Stand, the 86. 
 Stans 84. 
 
 Stanserhorn, the 85. 
 Stansstad 88. 
 Stanz s. Stans. 
 — , Valley of 349. 
 Stapf, in'der 263. 
 Starkenbach 291. 
 Statz, Lake of 330. 
 Statzer Horn, the 322. 
 Staubbach, the 110. 
 Staubende Briicke , 
 
 78. 
 Stauberbach, the 76. 
 Staubi, the 130. 297. 
 Stechelberg 113. 
 Steg, zum 143. 256. 
 Steig 281. 
 Stein, am 131. 
 — , the, zu Baden 17 
 — , the. 
 
 323. 
 Stein (Togaenburg) 43 
 Steinach, the 36. 
 — , Castle of 37. 
 
 — near Gais 
 
 Stossi 76. 
 
 Strada 339. 
 
 Strahlegg, the 119. 
 
 Strahlegg, ruins 316. 
 
 Strahlhorn, the 264. 265. 
 
 Strassberg, ruins 322. 
 
 Strattlingen 101. 144. 
 
 Strela Pass, the 317. 
 
 Strengen 349. 
 
 Stresa 374. 
 
 Stretta, la 334. 340. 
 
 Strich, zum 263. 
 
 Strimthal, the 76. 310. 
 
 Strona, the 261. 
 the'Strubeleckjoch, the 146 
 
 Stuben 349. 
 IStuderhorn, the 135. 
 iStulsergrat, the 319. 
 
 Stiirvis 320. 354. 
 IStiitz, theKlostersche317. 
 ISubigen 9. 
 ISuchard, Mont 197. 
 
 Suchet, Mont 175. 
 the Grisons Sufers 357. 
 
 Suggithurni, the 109. 
 
 Sugiez 164. 
 
 Suldbachjthe 145. 
 
 Sulden 345.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 415 
 
 Suldenthal, the S45. 
 
 Sulden Glacier, the 345. 
 
 Suleck, the 109. 
 
 Siilgen Si. 
 
 St. Sulpice 171. 
 
 Suls, Alp 109. 
 
 Sulsanna 317. 
 
 — , the Val 317. 336. 
 
 Sumvix 309. 
 
 Suna 373. 
 
 Sundlauenen 107. 
 
 Supersax, Castle 142. 
 
 Surava 3'JO. 
 
 Surenen-Eck, the 87. 
 
 Surettahorn, the 358. 
 
 Surlej 328. 
 
 — , the Fuorcla da 328. 
 
 — , Piz 333. 
 
 Surovel, Alp 334. 
 
 Surpalix, Val 311. 
 
 Sursee 14. 
 
 Susante, Col de 208. 
 
 Siis 337. 
 
 Siiser Thai, the 316. 
 
 Susaskabach, the 317. 
 
 Susch 337. 
 
 Susten 150. 256. 
 
 Susten-Horner, the 131. 
 
 Susten-Scheideck,the 131. 
 
 Suvers 357. 
 
 Suvretta Valley, the 329. 
 
 Suze s. Scheuss. 
 
 Taborberg, the 287. 
 Taconav, Glac. de 216. 
 Tacul, Glacier du 218. 
 Taesch 3. Tasch. 
 Ta<terna-Bach, the 159. 
 Tagertschi 92. 
 Taglioni, Villa 386. 
 Tagstein, castle 354. 
 Talefre , Glacier de 218. 
 
 220. 
 Tallieres, Lac de 171. 
 Talloires 212. 
 Tambohorn, the 357. 358. 
 Tamina, the 284. 285. 
 Tarains 307. 
 Tanninges 222. 
 Tanzenburg 69. 
 Tanzina, Villa 367. 
 Tara.sp 338. 
 — Baths of 338. 
 Tardisbriicke, the 284. 
 Tarentaise, the 234. 
 Tartsch 346. 
 T.-isch 269. 
 Tiv.sch Alp, the 266. 
 Tiischhorn, the 272. 
 Tasna, the Vallevof338. 
 Tiitschbach, the 86. 
 Taubenhorn, the 108. 
 Tauders 338. 344. 
 
 Tavanasa 309. 
 Tavannes 6. 
 Taverna, Villa 386. 
 Tavetsch 311. 
 — , Moinpe 310. 
 — , the Valley of 310. 
 Tecknau 15. 
 Teglino, Val 342. 
 Teglio 342. 
 Tellenburg, the 146. 
 Telliboden, the 264. 
 Teirs Chapel near Kiis- 
 
 nacht 48. 
 Teirs Platte, the 72. 
 Tendre, Mont 175. 
 Termine, Val 81. 
 Terms, Val 311. 
 Terrible, Mont 5. 
 Territet 196. 
 Terzen 44. 
 
 Tessin, the, s. Ticino. 
 — , the Canton of 82. 
 
 367. 
 Tete Blanche, the 246. 
 Tete Noire, the 225. 
 
 [Tiarms, Piz 311. 
 I— Val 311. 
 
 Ticino, the 81. 83. 139 etc. 
 Tiefengletscher, the 138. 
 Tiefenau, bridge of 13. 
 Tiefenkasten 323. 
 Tiefenmatten Glacier 246. 
 Tiefentobel, the 318. 
 Tines, Les 219. 224. 
 Tiniere, Col de la 199. 
 Tinizum 323. 
 Tinzen 323. 
 
 Tinzenhorn, the 318. 354. 
 Tirano 342. 
 — , Madonna di 341. 
 Tisch , the Steinerne 37. 
 
 283. 
 Titlis, the 86. 129. 
 Toccia and 
 Toce s. Tosa. 
 Todi, the 295. 
 Todi, the Lesser 310. 
 Todtenalp, the 317. 
 Todtensee, the 136. 
 Toggenburg, the 290. 
 Toggia, Valle 143. 
 
 — de Rang, the 168. 
 Teufelsbriicke, the, in the Toile or Thiele, the 17 
 
 Reussthal 78. 174. 
 
 — in the Sihlthal 299. Toma, Aua da 311. 
 Teufelsraiinster, the 72. jToma-See, the 311. 
 Teufelsstein, the, near Tomlishorn, the 53. 
 
 Giischenen 77. I Torino s. Turin. 
 
 — on the Urner Loch 78.!Torno 385. 
 
 Teufelsthal, the 321. 
 Teiifen 281. 
 Tgietlems, chalets 311. 
 Thai 37. 
 
 Thalbach, the U2. 
 Thahvyl 39. 85. 
 Thamberg 352. 
 Thavingen 20. 
 Thebdule Glacier, the 269. 
 
 Torre di Vezio, ruin 383. 
 Torrent, Col de 247. 
 Torrentalp, the 247. 
 Torrenthom, the 149. 
 Torrigia 385. 
 Torrone, Pizzo 3'27. 
 Torta, Val 316. 
 Tosa. the 143. 262. etc. 
 — , Falls of the 143. 
 
 St.Theodule Pass, the269. Td.scns 348. 
 Schanze, the 269. T(iss, the 26. 34. 
 
 I Thiele or Toile 172. 174. Tot j 
 
 the Rothe 52. 
 
 Thiele or Zihl, the 
 Thiengcn 19. 
 Thierachern 101. 
 Thierberge, the 131. 
 Thiermatten 150. 
 Thonon 205. 
 Thorishaus 159. 
 Thuille, the 234. 
 -, La 234. 
 Thun 100. 
 — . Lake of 103. 
 Thur, the 35. 290. 
 
 7. 9. Tounot, the 250. 
 iTour 159. 196. 228. 
 — , Glacier du 218. 228. 
 ''-' d'Ay, la 155. 158. 
 
 — de iioussine 242. 
 
 — de Duvn 201. 
 !— de Maven 194. 
 
 — de Peilz, La 195. 
 Tourbillon, castle 254. 
 Tournanche, Val 270. 
 
 iTnurne, La 170. 
 iTourneresse, the 154. 
 
 Thurgau, the Canton 34.iTournette, Mont 212. 
 Tour-Ronde 205. 
 Tourteuiagne 256. 
 — , Glacier de 250. 
 — Valley 256. 
 TraclLsel'lauinen 112. 
 
 Thurm, the au.ssere and 
 
 innere 265. 
 Thurmberg, the 107. 
 Thusis 354. 
 Tianns, Pass da 311.
 
 416 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Tracht 125. 
 Trafoi 345. 
 
 Bach, the 345. 
 
 — Glaciers, the 345. 
 Trasquera 141. 
 Travaglia. Val 372. 
 Travers 171. 
 — . Val de 170. 
 Treib 71. 
 
 Trelatete, Glacier de 230. 
 Trelechamp 224. 
 Tre'lex 190. 
 TrSme. the 157. 
 Tremezzina, the 3S4. 
 Tremezzo 384. 
 Tremoggia, Piz 335. 
 Tremofa, Val 81. 
 Tremoreio. Lago 370. 
 Trepalle 343. 
 Tresa. the 371. 
 Tre?a.; Ponte 380. 
 Tresenda 342. 
 Tresero. Piz 344. 
 Tre Sienori, Como 345. 
 Tres Sorellas 330. 
 Tricot, Col du 217. 
 Trient' 225. 
 — , the 202. 225. 
 — , Col de 226. 
 — , Glacier de 227. 
 — . Gorge du 202. 
 Trieve. the 226. 
 Trift Glacier, the 259. 
 Trifthorn. the 249. 266. 
 Triftjoch. the 249. 
 Trinquent 226. 
 Trins 307. 
 
 Trinserhorn, the 45. 
 Trinser See, the 307. 
 Triolet. Glacier du 233. 
 St. Triphon, Ollon 200. 
 Trisanna. the 849. 
 Tritthorn, the 80. 
 Trogen 278. 
 Troisrods 173. 
 Troistorrents 207. 
 Trons 309. 
 
 Trouma du Bouc. the 242. 
 Trub 91. 
 Triibbach 283. 
 Trubschachen 91. 
 Trtibsee, the 130. 
 Triibsee-Alp, the 86. 130, 
 Trugberg, the 119. 
 Trumlenbach. the 113. 
 Triimmelnthal, the 81. 
 Triittlisberg, the 151. 
 Tschafel 256. 
 Tschamut 311. 
 Tschanuff. ruins 339. 
 Tschappina 355. 
 Tschierva, Piz 333. 
 Tschingelalp, the 45. 
 
 Tschingel Glacier, the 
 
 112. 146. 256. 
 Tschinselhorner, the 112. 
 Tschingel Spitz, the 306. 
 Tschingeltritt, the 147. 
 Tschuggen 116. 317. 
 Tschupe 313. 
 Tlibach 37. 
 Tumein 307. 
 ,Tummenen 256. 
 :Tuoi. Val 316. 
 iTurbach Valley, the 151. 
 Turgi 16. 
 Turicum 11. 
 jTurin 211. 375. 
 iTiirl. Lake of 32. 
 iTurlo, Col del 378. 
 jTurr. La-, castle 356. 
 Turtig 257. 
 ITurtman 256. 
 Tiisch, Val- 45. 
 i Tuscia 354. 
 iTwann 9. 
 jTzeudet. Glacier 236. 
 
 iTJccello. Piz 357. 
 lUeberlingen 21. 
 ,reberlinger See. the 21. 
 lUeberm Bach 316. 
 Uechtland. the 160. 
 lUechtsee. the 164. 
 'Uerikon 40. 
 jUert=ch, Piz 319. 336. 
 Ireschinen Valley 147. 
 Uetliberg. the 3l. 
 iUetikon 39. 
 iLTiern. Val 313. 
 lUfnau, island of 40. 
 iL'ginc 211. 
 'ufrichen 140. 
 lUlrichshorn. the 266. 
 jUmbrail Pass, the 344. 
 Umbrail, Piz 343. 
 Unspunnen. ruins 106. 
 Unter-Aar Glacier 134. 
 Tntor-Albis 33. 
 Unteralp, the 81. 
 Untere Buchberg. the 42. 
 Untereggen 37. 
 iUnter-Laret 317. 
 Unter-Lavtina. Alp 45. 
 Unter-Mutten 354. 
 Unterschachen 297. 
 jUntersee, the 20. 
 Unterseen 105. 
 'Unter-Solis 354. 
 Unter-Spiringen 297. 
 I'nterstald 144. 
 Unterstalden, the 102. 
 L'nterterzen 45. 
 iromo-Pas?. the 81. 
 Upper-Valais, the 139. 
 Urathshcirner, the 131. 
 
 Trbachthal. the 132. 
 Urgbach. the 348. 
 Tri s. Altorf. 
 — , the canton 74. 
 — . Lake of 72. 
 
 Eothstock, the 73. 
 
 Urnaschbad, the 277. 
 Urner Boden, the 296. 
 
 — Loch, the 78. 
 Ste. Ursanne 170. 
 Urschai, Val 338. 
 Urseren 79. 
 
 — . Valley of 78. 138. 
 Ursernspitz, the 80. 
 Useigne 245. 
 Usses, the 213. 
 iUster 41. 
 lUttieen 100. 
 Uttwyl 23. 
 Tznach 42. 
 lUzwyl, Ober- 35. 
 
 Vadred. Piz 317. 
 
 Vaduva 287. 
 
 Vaduz 283. 
 
 Vajiia 327. 
 
 Val Dobbia, Col di 378- 
 
 — d-Illiez 207. 
 
 — Ehein 357. 362. 
 
 — Tournanche 270. 
 
 — TiiPch. Alp 45. 
 
 — Val 311. 
 Vala. the 311. 
 iValai=. the Canton 254. 
 Valansin 168. 
 Valendas 307. 
 
 Valens 287. 
 
 St. Valentin aufderHeide 
 
 347. 
 Valeria, castle 254. 
 Valetta-Pass, the 356. 
 Vallt'e des 3Iorts 237. 
 Vallencin 168. 
 Vallette 235. 
 Vallettes. les 206._ 
 VaUis domesiica 353. 
 
 — sexamniensis 356. 
 iVallorbe 177. 
 Valmaggia 378. 
 Valmara, the 371. 
 Valorcine 225. 
 Valpellina 242. 
 
 — . Col de 241. 
 Vals in the Upper Enga- 
 dine 327. 
 
 — am Platz 309. 
 Valsainte 153. 
 Valserine, the 208. 
 Valsorey . Aiguilles de 
 
 236. 
 — . Glacier de 236. 
 — . Vallee de 236. 
 Valtellina, the 341.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 417 
 
 Valtravaglia 372. 
 \andans 350. 
 \iinin. Colle tli 14U. 
 \anzone 263. 
 Varallo 377. 
 Varembe 186. 
 Varen lijO. 256. 
 Varenna 382. 
 Varens. Aig. de 212. 215. 
 \'arese 387. 
 — . Lago di 376. 
 \arrone. the 382. 
 \arzo 260. 
 \'asalli, Villa 367. 
 ^■as6n 287. 
 \-iittis 45. 287. 
 Vatz, Lake of 322. 
 Vand s. Waadt. 
 Vaiilion 176. 
 — . Dent de 177. 
 X'aulruz 157. 102. 
 Vaux. La 193. 
 — . les 242. 
 
 Vauxmarcup, casfle 174. 
 Va/.erol 323. 
 Vedeggio. the 365. 
 Vedro, Val di 144. 
 Veisivi, Dent« de 245. 246. 
 Velan. 3Iont 237. 
 Veltlin, s. Vatellina. 
 Venne?, castle 193. 
 Venoge, the 175. 
 Verbanus, lams 371. 
 Verbier, Col de 2.54. 
 \'ereina Pass, the 316. 
 St. Verena, Hermitage 12 
 St. Verenathal, the 12. 
 Vergiate 375. 
 Vergiera. the 312. 
 Veriola, the 259. 
 Vernagt Glacier 347. 
 Vernajaz 20*2. 
 Verneia, the 316. 
 Vernex 196. 
 
 Verolliaz, Chap, do 202. 
 Verona, Piz di 341. 
 Verrieres, Ics 171. 
 Versam 307. 
 Versegere 242. 
 Vers lEglise 155. 
 Versoix l89. 
 Verstanclahorn, the 316. 
 Verzasca. Bridge of 369. 
 Vesenaz 186. 
 Vespran 361. 
 Vetroz 244. 254. 
 Vevay 194. 
 
 Vevevse, the 194. 199. 
 Vex 245. 
 Vevrier 187. 
 Vevtaux 196. 199. 
 \'ezia 365. 
 
 BiEDEKER. Switzerla 
 
 Vezio. Torre di. ruin 383. Vougy 214. 
 Via 3Iala. the 355. Vouvrv 206. 
 
 Vibiscvs 194. Voza. Col de 229. 
 
 Vico 387. Vreneli.sgiirtli. the 304. 
 
 — . Borgo 360. 386. Vrin 308. 
 
 Vico.«oprano 361. Vrinthal. the 308. 
 
 Viege 257. Vuache, Mout do 208. 213. 
 
 — . the 208. 265. Vutricn.'!. castle 191. 
 
 Nicrwaldstiitter-See 68. Vuibez, Glacier de 246. 
 Vicicher-Horncr. the 119. — Serra de 247. 
 
 130. 140. Viiistornens 162. 
 
 — (Macier. the. near Vullv. 3Iont 164. 
 
 Orindelwald 118. \'i!li.era 338. 
 
 . the Walliscr 135. 
 
 Viosclier .loch, the 119. .Waborn 98. 
 Vigezza Val lev. the 370. Wadonswvl 40. 
 
 Vig(.ni, Villa 383. 
 Villa near Airolo 140. 
 — . Val Bregaglia 301. 
 — . Domo dOssola 261. 
 Villard 200. 
 Villefranche 270. 
 Villeneuve in the Aosta- 
 
 Wiiggis 69. 
 iWiiggithal. the 41. 
 iWaiincren ravine, the 106. 
 Wahlalp, the 153. 
 Walchwvl 47. 
 ; Wold on the Arlberg 349. 
 .— on the Bachtel 42. 
 
 Valley 234. j— near Trogen 278. 
 
 - on the Lake of Geneva; Waldau. Lun. Asvlum97. 
 
 199. 
 
 Villctte. la 229. 
 
 Villv. castle 214. 
 
 Vindoiii.-'sa 16. 
 
 Vinei. Pizzo di 80. 
 
 Vint.schgau. the 346. 
 
 Vionnaz 200. 
 
 Visgnola 386. 
 
 Visp s. Vispach. 
 
 — , the 257. 267. 
 . — , the Oorner 267. 
 
 — , the Saaser 265. 207 
 
 Vispach 257. etc. 
 
 Vissoye 248. 
 
 Vitodui'uiit 34. 
 
 S. Viflore 3(U. 
 
 Vitznau 69. 
 
 Viviers. grotto 206. 
 
 Vivis s. Vevay. 
 
 Voburg, castle of 5. 
 
 Vocca 378. 
 
 Vogelberg. the 36^:^. 
 
 Voclans 210. 
 
 Vtiglisegg 281. 
 
 Vogna, Val 378. 
 
 Vogoena 261. 
 
 Vogtsruhe. the 107. 
 . Voiron;-, the 187. 
 
 Vollensteg. the 256. 
 
 Volpers 338. 
 
 Vorarlberg. the 351. 
 
 Waldegg 109. 
 Wald-Emme. the 91. 
 Waldhauser. the 308. 
 Waldi 34. 
 
 Waldisbahn. grotto 69. 
 AValdnacht-Alp, the 87. 
 Waldnachtbach, the 87. 
 Waklshut 18. 
 Wallen-Sce. the 43. 
 Wallenstadt 45. 
 — . Lake of 43. 
 Wallenstiicke, the 85. 
 Wallisbachlen 143. 
 Wallisellen 34. 41. 
 Waltensburg 309. 
 Walzenhausen 37. 
 Wandtluh, the 246. 
 Wand Glacier, the 265. 
 
 266. 
 Wannehorn. the 140. 
 Wartau, castle 283. 
 Wartburg, the 8. 
 — . Ncu-. ruins 8. 
 Wartegg. castle 282. 
 Wart-nsee, castle in the 
 
 Rheinthal 282. 
 — near Semyach 14. 
 Wartenstein," ruins 287. 
 Wasen 77. 132. 
 Wasseralp. the 138. 
 Wassorlluh, the 15. 
 Watlingon 
 
 Vorauen 304. 
 
 Vorder-Aar Glacier 134. Wattwvl 291. 
 
 — -Khein . 307. 352. 353. Wauwyl 14. 
 
 — -Wiiggithal 41. Wehrastrasse. the 18. 
 Vo.-iges. the 6. Weid, the 27. 
 Vouasson, Glac. de 240. Weinburg, cattle 37. 28? 
 
 nd. 5th Edition. 27
 
 418 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Weinfolden 34. iWiggernthal, the 14. 
 
 Weingarten, castle 142. jWiggis, the '292. 304. 
 Weissbach. the. near In- Wilchingen 19. 
 
 terlaken 109. iWildegg 15. 
 
 — on the Simplon 258. Wildenstein, castle 15. 
 Weissbad, the 279. ;Wilderswvl 109. 
 
 Weisse Frau, the 146. IWihlserst, the 279. 
 Weissegg, the 251. Wildhaus 291. 
 
 Weissenau, ruins 104.106. 1 Wildhorn, the 1.52. 
 Weissenburg 153. Wildkirchli, the '2't 
 
 ,Zasenberg 118. 
 iZasenberghorn, the 113. 
 jZaziwvl 92. 
 .Zebru,' Monte 345. 
 jZehntenhorn, the 251. 
 jZenna 371. 
 
 Zerbaziere 227. 
 
 Zermatt 270. 
 
 Zernetz 337. 
 
 Baths of lo3. 
 
 9. Zerpletschcn 256. 
 Wildstrubei; the 148. 151. Zertannen 263. 
 
 Weissenstein, the, in theiWimmis 101. 
 
 Grisons 321. IWindgelle, the 74. 75. 
 
 — near Soleure 11. iWindisch 16. 
 
 Weissfluh, the 317. Winkel 88. 
 
 Weissgletscher, the 133. jWinkelmatten 272. 
 Weissgrat, the 272. IWinkeln 35. 10'2. 
 
 Weisshorn, the, near the Winterberg, the 77. 
 
 iZiegolbriicke 43. 
 ;Zignau 309. 
 Zihl, the 7. 9. 
 ;— Bridge, the 163. 
 Zillis 356. 
 
 [Zimmerberg, the 46. 
 iZimmerwald 98. 
 
 Rawyl 152. 
 
 — near Zermatt 142. 250.:Winterthur 34. 
 
 Weisskugel, the 345. jWitholz, the 37. 
 
 Weissmies, the 264. jWittwe, the 113. 
 
 iWintereggmatt, the 147.!ZinaI 248 
 
 Weisstaunen 4o. 
 Weisstannen - Thai, 
 45. 305. 
 
 the 
 
 Wohlhausen 91. 
 
 Wolfenschiess 85. 
 
 St. Wolfgang 317. 
 
 Weissthor, the Old 264.; Wolf halden 278. 
 
 275. 
 
 Wollishofen 39. 
 
 the New 264. 274. 275.'Worb 92. 
 
 ^Veitenalpstock. the 76. 
 
 310. 
 Wellborn, the 123. 
 Welschingen 20. 
 Wenden, Glacier of 131. 
 
 Col de 249. 
 — , Glacier de 249. 
 — , Pic de 248. 
 — , Val de 248. 
 Zinkenstocke, the 134. 
 Zitail 323. 
 Zizers 284. 
 Z^3Iuttbach, the 269. 
 Z'3Iutt Glacier, the 246. 
 273. 276. 
 
 Worms 343. | 
 
 Wormser Joch, the 344. jZofingen 13. 
 
 Worth, Schlo3.8chen 25. 'Zollbrucke, lower 284. 
 
 Wiiltlingen, R. Hoch- 34.'—, the upper 314. 
 
 Wulpelsberg, the 15. IZollikofen 7. 13. 
 Wendenstocke, the 130.|Wunderbrunnen, the 129.iZollikon 39. 
 Wenge, baths of 32. Wurmspach, convent 42. IZorten 319. 
 
 Wengen 114. IWutach, the 19. 
 
 Wengern-Alp. the 114. iWvdenbach 46. 
 
 Scheideck 116. wVhlen 18. 
 
 Wengisthalbach, the 117. Wyl 35. 
 Wenglstein, the 12. iWyler 77. 
 
 Wenslingen 15. WAlerfeld, the 13. 
 
 Werdenberg 292. jWylerhorn, the 90. 
 
 — , castle 283. iWynigen 13. 
 
 W^erthenstein,convent91. Wy.ssenbach 91. 
 Wesemlin, monast. 50. Wvtenstein, the 72. 
 Wesen 43. |wVtikon 31. 
 
 Wetterhorn, the 122. | 
 Wetterliicke, the 251. |Yberg, ruins 291. 
 Wettingen 17. jYverdon 172. 
 
 Wetzikon 42. Yvoire 204. 
 
 Wetzsteinhorn, the 152. JYvonand 172. 
 Widderfeld, the 53. 86. ^Yvorne 200. 
 Widderfeld-Alp, the 120. • 
 Widderstein, the 352. IZa, Aiguille de la 246. 
 
 Zozanne, Lac 247. 
 Zuchwyl 11. 
 Zufallspitz, the 347. 
 Zug 47. 
 
 — , Lake of 47. 
 Zuger Berg, the 47. 
 Zum Dorf 139. 
 jZum Steg 143. 256. 
 'Zumstein.-pitze 263. 275. 
 :Zum Strich 263. 
 iZupo, Piz 335. 
 IZura Vallev, the 313. 
 Zurich 26. 
 I—, Lake of 38. 
 IZiirichberg, the 31. 
 iZustoll, the 43. 
 Zuz 336. 
 
 Zweiliitschinen 110. 
 Zweisimmen 154. 
 
 Wicnachter-Eck, the 277. Zafragia Tobel, the 309. Zwergldcher, the 10<. 
 — Quarries 277. I Zahringen-Kvburg, castle Zwiesol Alp, the 282. 
 
 Wiesberg, ruin 349. 100. ' Zwillinge, the 273. _ 
 
 Wiesen 318. jZapport Glacier, the 363. Zwingen, Castle of 0. 
 
 Wiesendangen 34. Zapporthorn, the 357. Zwitzer Egg, the lol. 
 
 i:y • 
 
 Leipzig: Printed by Breitkopf & Hi
 
 University of California 
 
 SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 
 
 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 
 
 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. 
 
 li^Moif 
 
 nnm-7.'fi9rN296s41 — C-120 
 
 ?j^ ^lOSANGElfjv^ 
 
 ^^,OFCALIF0% .^OFCALIFO^^
 
 i^^ ^>&Ayvy3n# 
 
 -v o 
 
 3 1158 00662 1659 
 
 v>:lOSANCflfjv. 
 
 )l 6 
 
 ,- . mi mi 
 
 '^/5il3AINn]y\v -^(f/OJIlVDJO^ ^TOIIVDJO^' 
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACIUTY 
 
 A 000 205 165 4^ 
 
 
 AWEUNIVER5/A ^lOSANCflfj>