THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES THE CHURCHES OF THE CITY OF LONDON ST. I'AULS CATHEDRAL THE CHURCHES OF THE CITY OF LONDON BY HERBERT REYNOLDS BEING A SHORT HISTORY of the City Churches. Illustrated with Fifty-Four Original Drawings of the Towers and Steeples by the Author JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD LIMITED Vigo Street, London, W. I 1922 Printed in Great Britain by the CURWEN PRESS Plaistow, London, .13 INTRODUCTION TIME works strange mutations in all human affairs. It is no cause for wonder, then, that London should have lost much of its ancient surroundings ; the marvel is that so many of its old landmarks still remain. Portions of the famous Roman Wall may still be traced, some of the towers of which were in existence not much more than a century ago. London of to-day stands upon the site of a city many times destroyed and as oft rebuilt, yet has not shifted from the scene of its earliest occupation. The distant views of the 'Metropolis of the World ' reveal the landmarks of many centuries. The St. Paul's of to-day stands upon the same site as the early minster founded by Ethelbert, King of Kent, in 610. The towers of Westminster mark the spot on which was reared the church begun by Sebert and com- pleted 360 years later, receiving the name of West- minster because of its position west of St. Paul's. The third landmark is also with us to-day, and has 'marked time' for many centuries ; we refer to the White Tower of the keep of the Tower of London. It remains, even to its white bleached stones, ren- dered so by the rain and wind of the passing years. Besides these three principal landmarks may be seen the towers, turrets, and steeples of the City churches: thirty-four rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren after the great conflagration of 1666, nearly all upon the sites 879403 of the older churches, ten built after his time, and nine others that escaped the ravages of the Great Fire. The Tower or Steeple may be regarded as the completed work of the architect and builder. The laying of the Foundation Stone is an important event often attended with much ceremony, but there must always be a feeling of satisfaction when the topmost stone is set, and the 'something attempted' becomes the 'something done'; the idea is expressed in the words of the Master Himself: 'Which of you, in- tending to build a tower, sitteth not down first and counteth the cost, whether he have sufficient to finish it ? Lest haply after he hath laid down the foundation and is not able to finish it, all that behold it begin to mock him, saying, this man began to build and was not able to finish.' This thought must filter through the minds of many as they get a view from the street of the finished work appearing above the house-tops. Wren seems to have had a vision of the future, when perchance much of the lower part of the structures he was erecting would be hidden from view, and thus it seems he put his best work into the towers and steeples of the churches he rebuilt in what are now the busiest parts of London. This idea is clearly demonstrated, for if we walk almost in a straight line, west to east from the Law Courts, Fleet Street to the Tower, the first to catch our eye is the lofty steeple of St. Bride, the highest in the City, just a step back from busy Fleet Street; then again in Cheapside, above the rush and turmoil of the traffic, we get a view of the tower and spire of St. Mary-le-Bow, 6 considered by many to be his most beautiful creation. Further east, turning slightly north, we get a glimpse of St. Michael's, Cornhill; then back again towards Eastcheap, into perhaps the busiest part of all, above the din, confusion and smell of Billingsgate, rise the graceful towers of St. Dunstan's and St. Magnus, the body of the church, in each case, being hidden more or less from our view. Thus it seems the great architect anticipated what might happen in part concerning his handiwork, but one questions whether he ever thought of their wanton destruction. The demolition of the City churches began in the year 1871, with the removal of St. Christopher-le- Stocks (the first of Sir C. Wren's churches to go), since which time as many as twenty-one, eighteen of which were the work of the great architect, have been swept away. After a short respite the work of de- struction is about to recommence. We would plead for their retention upon the basis of an historical fact, apparently overlooked, that the citizens of London, in spite of plague and fire, preferred to submit to further taxation (one shilling per chaldron on coal) rather than sell the sites of their ancient churches and, with the money thus gained, build new ones elsewhere, realizing that this meant the desecration of the grave- yards of their honoured dead, and the removal of the edifice from a close association with its historic past. Thus the citizens of a less enlightened age put to shame the Vandal of to-day, who, for purely pe- cuniary gain, would destroy nineteen of these price- less ancient architectural heirlooms which have remained for well-nigh two centuries and a half, silent though eloquent witnesses to the homage and unselfishness of the people of London who, thirty- one years after the Great Fire, had expended more than 253,000 upon their restoration, and who, when St. Paul's was declared finished by the Act of the 9th of Anne, 1711, had spent the huge total of well-nigh one million pounds, raised by taxation and from private benevolence. Surely their willingness to give and to work should have some claim upon our regard, and be an incentive to preserve, rather than destroy, that which they, by patience and per- severance, have bequeathed. AUTHOR'S NOTE The writer is indebted to W. Jeffrey, the author of a very excellent little book published in 1824, entitled 'London Parishes'; and to a number of other works that he has been able to scan, through the unfailing courtesy and help of the attendants at the Guildhall Library. Mention must also be made of a book entitled 'The Old City Londiniencis, Antiquities, Memories, Faith,' by James Graham Churcher. The Author's thanks are also due to Mr. William E. Rickwood, who has kindly reviewed the text. It should be added that the sketches of the towers and steeples reproduced in this book were made by the author from the actual structures, and not from photographs. In fact, it would in many cases be 8 almost impossible to obtain a properly focused photographic view of any of the towers or steeples here represented. Photographs that have been secured of the tower or steeple have generally been taken from the roof of a neighbouring building, and in consequence appear as more or less flat views, lacking the light and shade so essential to a pleasing picture, and in any case do not represent the view familiar to the City man namely, the view from the street. To make these sketches from the street has been in many instances a matter of no small diffi- culty, as, with many, a view can only be obtained from an acute angle in a busy thoroughfare. The author had some adventures while making the drawings, but everywhere met with the greatest courtesy and interest from all who noted him at his work, and now that the work has been completed he feels that it was well worth the time and the trouble expended. Eighty-six churches were destroyed in the Great Fire. The following is a list of those which were not rebuilt, with the names of the churches with which they were united: United with All Hallows-the-Less. St. Michael's, Paternoster Royal. All Hallows, Honey Lane. St. Mary-le-Bow. St. Andrew Hubbard. St. Anne's, Blackfriars. St. Benet Sherehog. St. Botolph, Billingsgate. St. Faith under St. Paul's. St. Mary-at-Hill, Love Lane, Eastcheap. St. Andrew by the Ward- robe, Queen Victoria Street. St. Stephen's, Walbrook St. Augustine, Watling Street. St. Margaret Pattens, Eastcheap. St. Gregory by St. Paul's. St. Martin, Ludgate. St. John the Baptist, Once St. Antholin's, Budge Row, now St. Mary Aldermary. St. Mary-le-Bow. St. Anne & St. Agnes, Gresham Street. St. Mary Abchurch, Cannon Street. St. Gabriel, Fenchurch. Walbrook. St. John the Evangelist. St. John Zachary. St. Lawrence, Poultry. St. Leonard, Eastcheap. All Hallows, Lombard Street. ii St. Leonard, Foster Lane. St. Margaret Moses. St. Margaret, Fish Street. The Monument now stands upon the site of this church. St. Martin Pomary. St. Martin Vintry. St. Mary, Bothaw. St. Mary, Colechurch. St. Mary, Mounthaw. St. Mary Staining. St. Mary Woolchurch. The Mansion House now stands upon the site of this church. St. Mary Magdalen, Milk Street. St. Matthew, Friday Street. St. Michael-le-Querne. St. Nicholas Acorn. St. Nicholas Olave. St. Olave, Silver Street. St. Pancras, Soper Lane. Christchurch, Newgate Street. St.Mildred,Bread Street. St. Magnus, London Bridge. St. Margaret, Lothbury. St. Michael, Pater- noster Royal. St. Swithin, Cannon Street. St. Margaret, Lothbury. St. Nicholas Cole Abbey, Knightrider Street, St. Alban, Wood Street. St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard Street. St. Lawrence Jewry. St. Vedast, Foster Lane. St. Vedast, Foster Lane. St. Edmund, King and Martyr, Lombard Street. St. Nicholas Cole Abbey. St. Alban, Wood Street. St. Marv-le-Bow. 12 St. Peter, Paul's Wharf. Once St. Benet, Paul's Wharf. Now St. Nicholas Cole Abbey. St. Peter Cheap. . Once St. Matthew, Friday Street. Now St. Vedast. St. Thomas, Knightrider St. Mary Aldermary. Street. Churches rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren after the Great Fire, which have since been demolished: All Hallows, Bread Street. All Hallows, Upper Thames Street. St. Antholin, Budge Row. St. Bartholomew by the Exchange. St. Benet Fink. St. Benet, Gracechurch Street. St. Christopher-le-Stocks. St. Diones Backchurch. St. George, Botolph Lane. St. Mary Magdalene, Old Fish Street. * St. Mary Somerset, Upper Thames Street. St. Matthew, Friday Street. St. Michael, Bassishaw. St. Michael, Crooked Lane. St. Michael, Queenhithe. St. Michael, Wood Street. St. Mildred, Poultry. * St. Olave, Jewry. * The towers of these two churches are still standing. 13 CONTENTS Page *St. Dunstan's in the West .... 18 St. Bride, Fleet Street 22 St. Andrew by the Wardrobe . . . 26 St. Benet, Paul's Wharf 30 St. Mary Somerset 34 St. James Garlickhithe 38 *St. Michael, Paternoster Royal . . . 42 *St. Magnus, London Bridge. ... 46 *St. Mary-at-Hill 50 *St. Dunstan in the East 54 St. Margaret Pattens, Rood Lane . . 58 All Hallows Barking 62 All Hallows Staining 66 St. Olave, Hart Street ..... 70 *St. Katherine Coleman 74 *St. Botolph, Aldgate 78 St. Katherine Cree 82 St. Andrew Undershaft . . . . 86 St. Peter, Cornhill 92 *St. Michael, Cornhill 96 St. Stephen, Walbrook 100 St. Swithin, Cannon Street . . . .104 St. Mary Abchurch 108 St. Martin Orgar 112 *St. Clement, Eastcheap 116 *A11 Hallows, Lombard Street . . . 120 St. Edmund, King and Martyr . . .124 *St. Mary Woolnoth . . . . . 128 B 15 St. Margaret, Lothbury 132 St. Helen, Bishopsgate 136 St. Ethelburga, Bishopsgate .... 142 St. Botolph, Bishopsgate . . . .146 *A11 Hallows, London Wall . . . .150 St. Giles, Cripplegate 154 *St. Alban, Wood Street . . . .158 *St. Mary-the-Virgin, Aldermanbury . . 162 St. Lawrence Jewry 166 *St. Stephen, Coleman Street . . .170 St. Olave Jewry 1 74 St. Mary-le-Bow, Cheapside . . .178 St. Mary Aldermary, Bow Lane . . . 182 St. Mildred, Bread Street . . . . 186 *St. Nicholas Cole (Cold) Abbey . . .190 St. Augustine, Watling Street . . 1 94 *St. Vedast, Foster Lane . . . . 198 *St. Anne and St. Agnes 202 *St. Botolph, Aldersgate 206 Christ Church 210 St. Bartholomew-the-Great . . . . 216 St. Bartholomew-the-Less . . . . 220 St. Sepulchre, Holborn Viaduct . . .224 St. Andrew, Holborn 230 St. Martin, Ludgate Hill . . . .234 St. Alphage, London Wall . . . .238 Austin Friars 242 St. Paul's Cathedral 244 * The churches marked with asterisk are the nineteen churches threatened with demolition. 16 ST. DUNSTAN'S IN THE WEST ST. DUNSTAN'S IN THE WEST THE original church dated back to the thirteenth century ; it escaped the Great Fire, but, falling into decay, was pulled down in 1829. The present one stands a little back from the ancient site, and occupies what was formerly the old churchyard. Built by John Shaw in 1831-3, it is a good speci- men of nineteenth-century Gothic, and is similar in design to 'The Boston Stump,' Boston. It is worthy of remark that this and St. Dunstan's in the East by Sir C. Wren are quite different in character from any others in the City. Although of modern construc- tion, it contains an interesting relic of ancient London namely, the statue of 'Good Queen Bess,' which at one time stood on the Old Lud-gate. It can now be seen over the doorway into the schools, bearing the date 1580. That Pepys was wont to attend this church is shown by an entry in his diary: 'August the xyth, 1662. A very good sermon and very little reflections in it to anything of the times ' which shows that even with regard to some discourses, when we compare the present with the past, 'there is nothing new under the sun.' The well-known name of Izaak Walton, the author of 'The Compleat Angler,' is associated with this church, he being a sidesman and overseer of the parish. The bracket clock of the old church, which 18 at one time protruded over the pathway, can be seen at St. Dunstan's Villa, Regent's Park, now so familiar to us all as a home for the blinded heroes of the Great War. 20 ST. BRIDE, FLEET STREET ST. BRIDE, FLEET STREET ST. BRIDE or Bridget, after whom the ancient church was named, attained greater fame in Ireland than in England, because of the miracles she is alleged to have performed, one of which seems to have obtained more appreciation than the others namely, that of turning the water of a certain well into beer\ yet strangely enough this church which bears her name derived notoriety from the water of a holy well within its precincts, of which some parts of the pump may still be seen by the side of the churchyard wall. This well gave the name to the palace of Bridewell which, in the reign of Edward VI, became a workhouse for the poor and a house of correction. In the ancient chapel of the hospital was a portrait of the young King, under which the following, lines were written : 'This Edward, of fair memory the sixt, In whom, with greatness, goodness was commixt, Gave this Bridewell, a palace in old times, To be a chastening house for vagrant crimes.' The early church on this site was founded before 1291, and was enlarged by William Vennor, Esq., Warden of the Fleet, about the year 1480 ; repaired and beautified by the parish in 1632, and thirty-four years afterwards totally destroyed in the Great Fire. It was rebuilt by Sir C. Wren in 1680 at the cost of 1 1,430 55. lod. The lofty spire, designed after the shell of the 'Turitella,' was not erected until a few years later. It was originally 234 ft. in height, but 22 owing to its damaged condition, after a great storm in 1764, was lowered 8 ft., and is now 226 ft. as against that of St. Mary-le-Bow, which is two feet lower. The interior of the church is pleasing in its aspect, with an east window which is considered a very fine specimen of glass painting. As a whole, it presents an appearance of light and cheerfulness, and may be taken as a fair example of the great architect's best style of work, and in confirmation of this we have his own words, 'good materials and good worke ' justified his estimate of the cost of its re-erection. The vestry books and registers of this church reveal valuable and interesting information regarding the family of Pepys, the great diarist, who was baptized here, March 3rd, 1633, eight days after he was born, and which seems to dispose of the claim of Brompton near Huntingdon as his birthplace. It seems hardly probable that a babe of such tender age would have been brought eighty miles from his home to be baptized in a London church. The minute and rate books also show that John Pepys (his father) lived within the parish ; the White Swan public- house in Salisbury Court, with a little Italian restaurant next door, occupy the site of the house he dwelt in some three hundred years ago. Samuel Richardson, the author of ' Pamela, or Virtue Rewarded,' and other works, was buried here in 1761. It is interesting also to remember that Milton, the inspired poet, lived in lodgings at the house of one Russell, a tailor, which adjoined the churchyard, and here he educated his two nephews. 24 ST. ANDREW BY THE WARDROBE QUEEN VICTORIA STREET ST. ANDREW BY THE WARDROBE QUEEN VICTORIA STREET THE original church dated back to the twelfth century, Robert March being its rector in the year 1322. It was in earlier days called 'St. Andrew's juxta Baynard's Castle' because of its proximity to the palace of that name ; later, the title was changed to 'St. Andrew's by the Wardrobe,' receiving this appellation owing to the nearness of 'The Wardrobe,' a new structure of that name erected in its vicinity. This palace usurped the sites of so many dwellings, and thereby affecting the parish tithes to such an extent as to move the rector to apply to King Edward III (the owner of the property) for some measure of redress. The King, we are told, 'was pleased to grant the rector and his successors forty shillings per annum in perpetuity out of the said Royal Mansion called "The Great Wardrobe, Carter Lane." The present church was rebuilt by Sir C. Wren after the Fire in 1692 at the cost of ,7,060 i6s. I id. The tower and body of the church are built of brick and stone, and the church is one of the least im- posing of his construction. The interior is plain in appearance, the stucco ornaments above the lunettes in each bay being the only attempt at decoration. The galleries were built to accommodate the parishioners of St. Anne's, Blackfriars, whose church was not rebuilt after the Fire, although, 26 from its association with the eloquent and devout Richard Baxter, it deserved a better fate. There are marble monuments to former rectors the Rev. William Romaine, the Rev. William Goode, and the Rev. Isaac Saunders. The latter died in the pulpit in a most pathetic and tragic manner while delivering his usual New Year's address on the first Sunday in January, 1836. 28 ST. BENET, PAUL'S WHARF UPPER THAMES STREET ST. BENET, PAUL'S WHARF UPPER THAMES STREET THE early church stood on Bennet's Hill near to St. Paul's Wharf, so called because from this spot stone and other materials were landed for the use and rebuilding of St. Paul's Cathedral. In this church was buried one of the greatest architects of his day, Inigo Jones, who died in 1652. Although no City churches were built by him he supervised the extensive repairs of the Church of St. Helen, Bishopsgate, begun in 1631 and finished 1663. His monument was destroyed with the church in the Great Fire, 1666. The present church was erected by Sir C. Wren in 1683 at the cost of 3,328 i8s. lod. It has been described as one of his most successful exteriors. The tower shows the skill with which he contrived to build them independent of the other parts of the structure. The uninterrupted rise from the ground gives full effect to height and gracefulness. Later architects adopted a different style, building their towers and steeples so that they rose from the body of the church, thereby losing the line of support which Sir C. Wren so successfully portrayed. At one time (about the middle of the eighteenth century) this church was in much request for the celebration of marriages, and was, in fact, the St. George's, Hanover Square, of its day. Shakespeare evidently refers to the ancient church 30 of St. Benet in his play, 'Twelfth Night' (Act v, Scene i). Clown (to the Duke) : 'PrimOy secundo, tertio is a good play ; and the old saying is, The third pays for all; the triplex, sir, is a good tripping measure ; or the bells of St. Bennet, sir, may put you in mind One, two, three.' The church is now Welsh, and the service is therefore rendered in that language. ST. MARY SOMERSET UPPER THAMES STREET ST. MARY SOMERSET UPPER THAMES STREET THE original church, which dated back to the fourteenth century, was destroyed in the Great Fire and afterwards rebuilt by Sir C. Wren in 1695 at the cost of 6,579 i8s. id. Its fine though somewhat overcrowded tower, 120 ft. high, crowned with eight pinnacles, alone remains. The body of the church was demolished in 1871, the site, which was sold by tender, realizing 10,000. The parish was united to that of St. Nicholas Cole Abbey. Before the completion of Wren's church in 1695 six elm-trees were planted in the churchyard, and it is to be regretted that those responsible for the removal of the body of the church did not leave the surrounding churchyard and its elm-trees. The tower seems so desolate, standing, as it does, naked and alone to the busy street. 34 ST. JAMES GARLICKHITHE UPPER THAMES STREET ST. JAMES GARLICKHITHE UPPER THAMES STREET THE early church dated back to the four- teenth century, and according to Stow was so called because it was situated on Garlick Hill, near to the 'Hithe' or landing-place where garlick was collected and sold. It was built in the reign of King Edward II, 1 326, by Richard Rothing, Sheriff of London, who was buried in it, as were also two other Sheriffs and six Lord Mayors. It was again repaired by the parish in 1624, only to be completely destroyed in the Great Fire, 1666. The present church was built by Sir C. Wren at the cost of 5,357 I2s. iod., and reopened in 1682. The tower is one of the finest of his campaniles of the tower-class, and when one compares it with the western towers of St. Paul's one cannot fail to see how much it resembles this later work, and, as the tower of St. Stephen's, Walbrook, is of the same character, it seems just possible that the great architect wished to test the appearance of two such similar bell towers for the western front of the Cathedral, then in course of construction. This is merely conjectural, but it is significant that the interior of St. Stephen's, Walbrook (one of the churches referred to), is practically St. Paul's in miniature, which suggests that the steeple may have been designed for a similar purpose. Sir C. Wren's plan for the admittance of light into the body of this church is as successful here as in so 38 many others that he built, and which is not the least remarkable of all his efforts when one considers the increased height of the modern warehouses now hemming them in on all sides. 40 ST. MICHAEL, PATERNOSTER ROYAL ST. MICHAEL, PATERNOSTER ROYAL THE^ancient church on this site was founded in the thirteenth century, and almost entirely rebuilt by Sir Richard Whittington in 1400. This name has a tinge of romance about it, woven, as it is, in the story of 'Dick Whittington and his cat.' Sir Richard was four times Lord Mayor of London, and can claim a distinction attained by few, if any, namely that of having been buried three times in the church he built. In the first instance he was buried by his execu- tors; then by the parson of the church, who, in the reign of Edward VI, had caused his tomb to be broken into in order to secure the great riches supposed to be buried with him ; and, finally, in the reign of Queen Mary, when the parishioners were compelled to take him up, to 'lap him in lead' and then bury him again for the third and last time. The present church was erected in 1694 (under the superintendence of Wren) by Strong, his master mason, at the cost of 7,455 ys. 9d. The steeple was not completed until 1713 ; it is similar in many respects to those of St. James's, Garlickhithe, and St. Stephen's, Walbrook. 42 ST. MAGNUS, LONDON BRIDGE ST. MAGNUS, LONDON BRIDGE THE old church dedicated to St. Magnus was founded in the early part of the fourteenth century. It was burnt down in the Great Fire, being one of the first to fall a victim to the flames on that fateful morning of September 2nd, 1666. The present edifice was erected by Sir C. Wren in 1676 ; the steeple, however, was not completed until the year 1705. It is one of the most expensive of his constructions, having cost the sum of 9,579 193. lod. to build. His forethought saved the church, with its fine unique steeple, from demolition when the widening of Fish Street Hill became necessary as an approach to the older London Bridge. It was found he had planned the ground story so that it could be opened easily on both sides ; this was done, and a footway leading through the lowest story of the tower preserved the church. One of its most beloved rectors was Miles Coverdale, Bishop of Exeter, and translator of the first complete English printed version of the Bible, which was printed under his direction in the year 1535. He was buried in the Church of St. Bartho- lomew-by-the-Exchange (demolished in 1 840). His remains were then re-interred in this church, where, only three years before, the parishioners had at last thought him worthy of a monument. Verily we are a slow-thinking race ! 46 ST. MARY-AT-HILL ST. MARY-AT-HILL THE early church derived its name from the position it occupied, it having been built upon a hill or ascent from the riverside. The old church of St. Mary-at-Hill was erected in the thirteenth century, and was extensively repaired fifty years before the Fire of 1666, which destroyed the whole of the church with the exception of the tower ; this stood until the year 1780, when the present plain brick structure was erected. The body of the church, rebuilt by Sir C. Wren, 1672-7, has been so restored and modernized that it seems doubtful whether any of his original work remains. The 'Church Army' is in close association with this place, the Rev. Wilson Carlisle being its founder and head. A curious story in connection with the early church was related by a writer nearly two hundred years ago regarding a circumstance which, if un- canny, is at least remarkable. We are told how a certain 'Alice Hackney, wife of one of the Sheriffs of London,' had been buried near this spot, and how some 170 years later the coffin was found by some workmen when digging for the foundations of a wall. On the coffin being opened the body was found whole in all its parts as if just dead, the joints of the arms being pliable and the skin in no way dis- coloured. After being exposed to the gaze of the curious for four days it was again buried. ST. DUNSTAN IN THE EAST (Between Tower Street and Lower Thames Street) ST. DUNSTAN IN THE EAST (Between Tower Street and Lower Thames Street) THE old church of St. Dunstan dated back to the thirteenth century. In 1633 it was almost entirely rebuilt at the cost of 2,400. Destroyed in the Great Fire, it was rebuilt by Sir C. Wren in the years 1668-71. The steeple, which is after the style of the Gothic spires of St. Nicholas, Newcastle, and St. Giles, Edinburgh, was the parti- cular pride of the great architect, especially after its stability had been proved in the terrible storm that swept over London on the 2yth of November, 1703, when the loss of life from falling chimneys reached the total of twenty-one persons, and the material damage was estimated at one million pounds. The body of the church, however, was not so durable as the tower, for it was pulled down in 18 10 and rebuilt in the Gothic style, in harmony with the spire. The architects were Laing and Tite. The former also built the Custom House, and the latter the Royal Exchange. With that disregard of the venerable so often displayed by those who renovate, the wood carvings by Grinling Gibbons, the old font, and Father Smith's organ were removed without ceremony. The latter went to the Abbey Church at St. Albans ; the font, lost for some years, was recovered and restored to the church in 1845, an< ^ now occupies a position at the extreme north of the church. 54 A large number of monuments, chiefly City merchants of little distinction, may be seen in the church. There is a tablet, however, which is worthy of notice ; one to Colonel John Finnis, who was the first victim of the Indian Mutiny, 1857. ST. MARGARET PATTENS ROOD LANE, EASTCHEAP ST. MARGARET PATTENS ROOD LANE, EASTCHEAP THE date of the foundation of the early church is uncertain, but it must have existed before the year 1291. The second name 'Pattens' indicates its association with the trade which in bygone times was carried on in its imme- diate vicinity; for here it was that all the patten and clog makers had their workshops, and where the citizens of London bought their winter footwear. Rood Lane was so called because of a rood or crucifix which stood in or near the church in a small chapel, both of which were broken down at night on the 23rd of May, 1538, by some opposers of the Romish superstitions of those times. This occurred during the rebuilding of the church. The church was re- paired in 1614, further embellished in 1632, and eventually destroyed in the Great Fire, 1666. The present church was built by Sir C. Wren in 1687 at the cost of 4,986 los. 4d. The beautiful and graceful spire stands out in marked contrast to the white stone of the tower, with its balustrade and handsomely carved pinnacles. Now that its former rival, the tower and spire of St. Antholin's, Budge Row, has gone (demolished in 1874) it is the only one left of Wren's successful rendering of a Gothic octagonal spire, and is one of the most perfect examples of renaissance archi- tecture we possess. 58 The church has some fine specimens of wood- carving. The organ is still in the gallery at the west end of the church. 60 ALL HALLOWS BARKING ALL HALLOWS BARKING THE church of All Hallows Barking, stand- ing in Tower Street, opposite Mark Lane Station, has been rightly described as 'the most complete mediaeval parish church in London.' There were eight churches dedicated to All Hallows, or All Saints, standing before the Fire. The name seems to have been a favourite one with our an- cestors, owing, probably to its association with the holiday of All Hallows Mass, incorporated into the Christian system by Pope Boniface IV in the seventh century, for correction of 'our omission for many a saint's day in the year we have unserved.' The church owes its second name to its early connection with the vicarage belonging to the convent at Barking, Essex, founded by the Bishop Erkenwald at the end of the seventh century. Richard I added to the church a chapel of St. Mary, enlarged by Edward I. This, and a college for priests, were pulled down in the sixteenth century. The pillars and arcades are of two different periods : those towards the west, early Gothic ; the eastern portion, from that of the reign of Richard III. The church suffered severely from the effects of an explosion in January, 1649, which occurred at a shipchandler's shop, some fifty or sixty persons being killed in the neighbourhood. The church was restored, and the present brick steeple built in 1659. All Hallows only narrowly escaped the Great Fire. Pepys, in his Diary, thus refers to the Fire, September, 1666: 'There is a good stop given to 62 vJ 9 it ... it having only burned the dyall of Barking Church and part of the porch, and was then quenched.' The clock that protrudes over the pathway was at one time surmounted by a figure of an angel. A succeeding churchwarden in 1675 removed this, and placed it over the altar. The priest having at certain times been seen making obeisance to it, the church- warden was indicted and compelled to burn the image. William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was baptized here, October 23rd, 1644. Another interesting fact should be noted, especially by Americans. John Quincy Adams, afterwards one of her presidents, was married at this church to Catherine Johnson, while on his way to assume his diplomatic functions at the Court of Berlin. Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, beheaded on Tower Hill, I9th January, 1547, and Archbishop Laud, 1644, were both buried in this church. Dr. Rovis, incumbent here, afterwards Bishop of Gloucester, and finally Bishop of London, was one of the eight eminent divines to whom was com- mitted the task of compiling our authorized version of the four Gospels, the Acts, and the Apocalypse. Some of the finest Flemish brasses in England are to be seen upon its floor ; one to the memory of William Thynn should call up grateful remem- brances, because to him we owe the first edition of the works of Geoffrey Chaucer, published in 1532, some 132 years after the death of England's earliest poet. 64 ALL HALLOWS STAINING STAR ALLEY, MARK LANE ALL HALLOWS STAINING STAR ALLEY, MARK LANE THE tower alone remains of the ancient church of All Hallows Staining, built about the end of the thirteenth century, and called Stane Church because as Stow tells us built of stone, while the other churches dedicated to 'All the Saints' were of wood. This explanation is con- sidered a fanciful one, and is only accepted because no other has been put forward. The church escaped the Fire ; not long after- wards, however, the greater part of the body of the church fell into decay. It was partly rebuilt at the beginning of the eighteenth century, and remained until the year 1870, when all but the tower was pulled down, and the parish joined to St. Olaves, Hart Street. The site was sold to the Clothworkers' Company ; the sale was made under certain conditions, and provision was made for the upkeep of the tower and the surrounding churchyard. It is interesting to remember that it was at this church on May 9th, 1554, that the Princess Eliza- beth (afterwards Queen) performed her devotions upon her release from confinement in the Tower. There is an old London tradition which declared that after this service she ate dinner at a certain tavern in Fenchurch Street, the principal item in menu being 'pork and peas,' and that a similar dinner was held afterwards for many years to perpetuate the important event. 66 The churchwardens' accounts are still preserved, and furnish some rather curious and interesting particulars of expenditure : 'Payments for peals' 'For joye of ye execution of ye Queen of Scots' 'For the return of King James II to London ' ; then, after two days, 'A Merrie Peal for the landing of the Prince of Orange.' There must have been another 'Vicar of Bray ' somewhere in the neighbour- hood whose changing sentiments found expression through the bells of All Hallows Staining. This church was one of the four London churches in which James's unpopular 'Declaration of Indulgence' was read. 68 ST. OLAVE, HART STREET (Near Fenchurch Street Railway Station) ST. OLAVE, HART STREET (Near Fenchurch Street Railway Station) THE church of St. Olave was dedicated to Olaf, King of Norway, murdered in the year 1028. The two other churches so named, St. Olave, Silver Street, and St. Olave, Jewry, were both destroyed in the Great Fire, the latter only being built while the parish of the former was united to St. Albans, Wood Street. St. Olave, Hart Street, is a Gothic church of the fifteenth century, and has taken its name from St. Olaf, King of Norway, who gave his name to this and three other London churches. In its earlier days it was an important church, because of its proximity to the Tower, then a royal residence. It was the parish church of Samuel Pepys, to whom we are indebted for the many striking pictures of the days of the 'Merrie Monarch.' Pepys's pew, which was situated in the gallery, has long since disappeared. It was removed by the hand of the too zealous renovator, who, regardless of its historic interest, committed another of those acts of Vandalism that the thought- ful citizen so keenly resents. The following items from his diary are of interest because of the reference to this church : November 4;^, 1660, Lord's Day. In the morn to our own church, where Mr. Mills did begin to nibble at the Common Prayer by saying 'Glory be to the Father,' etc., after he had read the two Psalms, but the people had been so little used to it, that they could not tell what to answer. 70 January 30^, 1666. This is the first time I have been in church since I left London for the plague, and it frightened me indeed to go through the church more than I thought it could have done to see so many graves lie so high upon the churchyard where people have been buried of the plague. I was much troubled at it, and do not think to go through it again for a long time. September i$th, 1667. To church, where I stood in continued fear of Mrs. Markham's coming and offering to come into our pew, to prevent which soon as ever I heard the great door open I did step back and clap myself to our pew door, that she might be forced to shove me to come in, but as God would have it, she did not come. There is a bust of Mrs. Pepys in the chancel, placed there by the diarist himself, and one to Samuel Pepys* on the south side. They both were buried under the altar. There are also tablets to Sir John Memys, a very humorous and withal practical comptroller of the Navy, a worthy contributor to the 'Musarum Deliciae,' 1656, and to William Turner, publisher of the first 'English Herbal' in 1568. * This was not erected until 1884. We certainly do not raise memorials without mature consideration. Pepys died in 1703. 72 ST. KATHERINE COLEMAN ST. KATHERINE COLEMAN THIS church, dedicated to St. Katherine of Alexandria, who suffered martyrdom and torture on the wheel, was, according to Stow, given a second name because it stood adjoining a yard belonging to a citizen of the name of Coleman. The early church dated back to the fourteenth century. In 1489 the south aisle was restored or rebuilt, and the structure narrowly escaped the Fire in 1666. It was replaced by the present insignificant church in the year 1734, built at the expense of the parish under Act of Parliament, 12 George II. This old city church will shortly be demolished, and with the money provided by the sale of the site a new church is to be built at Fulham. The final service was held on Sunday evening, November 2oth, 1921. 74 ST. BOTOLPH, ALDGATE ST. BOTOLPH, ALDGATE THE church of St. Botolph was founded soon after the Conquest, and was rebuilt before the Suppression. In the year 1621 it was restored, and, escaping the Great Fire, it was again rebuilt, the Tudor church being demolished in 1741, and the present building erected by Dance the elder, the architect of the Mansion House. The church is of brick with stone quoins. The tower, with its stone spire with circular openings, has been for many a year a conspicuous object. Owing to its proximity to the Tower it was on more than one occasion used as the burial place for traitors, among those lying here being Sir Nicholas Carew and Sir Thomas Darcy. During the Plague large numbers of its victims were buried in a huge pit situated only a short distance from this church. ST. KATHERINE CREE LEADENHALL STREET ST. KATHERINE CREE LEADENHALL STREET THE second name Cree, or Cree Church, is believed to be a corruption of Christchurch, and the church is so called because of its association with Christchurch Priory, Aldgate. It was founded in the thirteenth century and entirely rebuilt in 1630. This church was one of the many included in Archbishop Laud's scheme for the restoring and rebuilding of City churches. It is thought that Inigo Jones was in some way associated with its reconstruction, but of this there is no actual proof. It was Laud's pompous display at its consecration in 1631 that formed the chief ground of the accusa- tion against him which eventually cost him his head. The church escaped the Great Fire in 1666, and was repaired in 1686. The steeple, which is 75 feet high, was built in 1504 by the gift of Sir John Percival, Merchant Taylor, and others. It is covered with lead and sup- ported with stone pillars. Although the church was untouched by the Great Fire, yet, as the vestry books show, it was brought into prominence by the terrible visitation. The Merchant Taylors School having been destroyed, the head master applied for leave to keep school in the vestry house ; this having been granted, it was found difficult to restrain the more inquisitive among the scholars, and a kind of enclosure had to be 82 erected to prevent their roaming about the sacred precincts of the church. An annual thanksgiving sermon is preached on October 1 6th, in commemoration of Sir John Gayer, Lord Mayor, who died in 1 649, leaving 200 for this purpose. He also left certain gifts to the poor, in memory of his providential deliverance from the paws of a lion whilst travelling in Arabia. The sermon is familiarized as the 'Lion Sermon.' Among the inscriptions there is one to R. Spencer, Turkey merchant, which records his death in 1667, and also relates how he had 'seen the prodigious changes in the State, the dreadful triumphs of death by pestilence, and the astonishing conflagration of the City by fire.' The curious old gate that once was at the entrance to the 'watch-house' at the east end of the church has gone the way of much that was of historical interest in this neighbourhood. The old sundial, however, may still be seen on the south wall. One is thankful it was originally placed there, otherwise, that too might have been removed. 84 ST. ANDREW UNDERSHAFT LEADENHALL STREET ST. ANDREW UNDERSHAFT LEADENHALL STREET THE second name 'Undershaft' referred to the long shaft, higher than the church steeple, which was set up in the middle of Leadenhall Street before the south door of the church every May-day until the year 1517. This day was afterwards called 'Evil May-day,' because of a serious riot which took place on that particular morning, when a number of apprentices and others, angered at the number of aliens allowed freedom in the City, 'to the great decay of trade,' attacked, looted, and destroyed a number of houses in the vicinity. One Lincoln was the chief instigator, and he and thirteen others were hanged in different parts of the City. The shaft was never afterwards erected, but lay for thirty-two years under the penthouse of a number of dwellings in the neighbourhood, giving the name of 'Shaft Court' to that locality, and then, because a certain Mr. Stevin having while preach- ing at St. Paul's declared it to be an idol, it was sawn up, divided into equal parts, and portions given to the owners of the houses under which it had lain for so many years. The church, which dated back to the thirteenth century, was rebuilt in 1532 at the charge of William Fitzwilliam, Esq., Sheriff of London (1506), in the Gothic style of the period. Repaired in the year 1627 at the charge of the parish, and, 86 escaping the Fire of 1 666, was again repaired in 1 704 and 1723. It is a church worthy of the care which has been bestowed upon it. Its fine tower, rebuilt in 1830, is a striking feature in a street which, in spite of its name, is one of the brightest in the City. This was the parish church of John Stow, and it is a curious circumstance, and one that might almost be regarded as a miracle, that the Great Fire spared the church and the monument of the man to whom we are indebted for so much information regarding the City of London as it existed prior to the appalling conflagration. His well-known 'Survey' is a mental photograph of the old London in which he lived, and from it we learn much of the manners and customs of its former citizens, and we gain a more intimate knowledge of the capital under Queen Elizabeth than we do of the same city at any other period. His monument was affixed to the north-west wall by his widow at her charge. Independent of its initial interest, it is the more remarkable being made of terra-cotta, coloured to resemble life. The venerable antiquary appears in a sitting posture, pen in hand, apparently engrossed in the work so dear to his heart work which he tells us cost him 'many a weary mile's travel, many a hard-earned penny and pound, and many a cold winter's night's study.' His 'Survey of London,' contained in sixty volumes, cost him much in time and money, and having fallen on evil days he was graciously granted a 'licence to beg' by his appreciative monarch James I. He died in 1605, * n ms eighty-fifth year. 88 There is also a monument to Sir Hugh Ham- mersley, Lord Mayor, 1637, and a canopied altar tomb of Sir Thomas Offley and family. There are brasses to the memory of Holbein, the famous painter, who lived in this parish, and one to a certain Nicolas Levison, also famous because of his large family of nineteen children, all of whom are here represented. Mary Datchelor, founder of the Grammar School for Girls so well known to South Londoners, is also buried here. 89 ST. PETER, CORNHILL (South Side) ST. PETER, CORNHILL (South Side) THE mediaeval church on this site was one of very early foundation, and, if the legend upon a tablet in the vestry is to be taken seriously, the date of its foundation goes back to the year A.D. 179. It was the first Christian church in London built by Lucius, King of Britain, the first Christian king in the world. It was a larger church than the present one, extending ten feet farther east across (what is now) Gracechurch Street. The church was restored in 1632, only to be completely destroyed in the Great Fire, 1666. The present church was erected by Sir C. Wren in 1680 at the cost of ,5,647 8s. 2d. The entrance from Cornhill is rather insignifi- cant. The tower is surmounted by a curious vane, resembling a key, pointing heavenwards 'The emblem of St. Peter.' The chancel screen is believed to be the design of the great architect. The organ, one of the famous 'Father Smith's,' was the gift of a Mr. Benjamin Thorowgood in 1682. The original keyboard and stops inlaid with pearl are still preserved in the vestry. 92 ST. MICHAEL, CORNHILL G ST. MICHAEL, CORNHILL THE tower of St. Michael is considered to be one of Sir C. Wren's best examples of the Gothic style, and was built after the model of the tower of the ancient church said to have been destroyed in 1421. The present tower, built after his design in 1724, like so many of his other fine examples, is practically hidden; only a very limited view of it can be obtained from Cornhill. The ac- companying sketch was secured by the writer from a space in St. Michael's Alley, looking from the north- east. Taken from this position the angle is neces- sarily somewhat acute, but the fine proportions of the tower and pinnacles cannot be portrayed from any other coign of vantage. The body of the ancient church was destroyed in the Great Fire and rebuilt by Sir C. Wren in 1672. The style is Italian Renaissance and is, as some of his critics declare, out of harmony with the tower, which is Gothic. It cost ^4,686 55. nd., which was pro- vided for out of the funds secured by the coal- tax, supplemented by contributions from wealthy parishioners. There is an interesting record which shows that the parishioners lost no time in taking action regard- ing the condition of their place of worship. The ruins could hardly have cooled down when an entry appears in the vestry minutes of a meeting held on the 1 7th September, 1666, barely a week after the abatement of the fire: 'Steps were ordered to be taken to preserve material saved from the fire, and a temporary building to be erected to serve as a place of worship.' The early church dated back to the year 1055, m which year Alnod gave to the Abbey of Evesham 'the blessed Michael in Cornhill' as a possession. The patronage remained with the Abbey until 1503, when it was transferred to the Drapers' Company. This parish has from its earliest times been justly proud of its peal of bells. Stow refers to them as 'the best ring of six bells to be rung by six men that was in England, for harmonye, sweetness of sound, and tune.' When visiting this church one is reminded of the ancient custom of chaining books ; for there still re- main within its precincts three, with chains attached. There is a parish entry, 1548-9: 'Item paid for book called "Paraphrase of Erasmus," 53. Item for chain to tie "the Paraphrase," 2od.' Yet, in spite of chains, in 1607 'Foxe's Book of Martyrs' was stolen; the thief, however, was caught the following year. ST. STEPHEN, WALBROOK ST. STEPHEN, WALBROOK AXORDING to Stow the early Norman church stood upon a site a little farther to the west of the present one, 'nearer the Brooke even on the Banke.' It dated back to the eleventh century, was enlarged and repaired by Sir William Standon, Lord Mayor in 1392, rebuilt in the fif- teenth century by Sir Robert Chichely, Lord Mayor in the ninth year of the reign of King Henry V, 1421, and finished in 1439 ; it was again repaired in the year 1632 and destroyed in the Great Fire. The present church was erected by Sir C. Wren in the year 1676 at the cost of ^7,652 135. 8d. It is rightly considered to be one of the most beautiful of his churches, chiefly on account of its interior, and we venture to think no other man could have wrought out such an elegant design in the limited space at his disposal. One can hardly believe that the whole area covered is only 82 ft. by 59, and it is little short of the marvellous that the great architect should have succeeded in presenting what is really St. Paul's in miniature on such a small extent of ground. The tower is considered by some to be faulty in design owing to the sharp contrast between the rough-hewn masonry of the tower and the beautifully finished work of the steeple. Whether such a contrast was intended by the architect is not clear, yet it has some significance. St. Stephen, to whom the church is dedicated, was the first Christian 100 martyr stoned to death, and the rough stones in the lower part and the more finished in the higher seem a fitting memorial to one who, while roughly handled and stoned below, was granted a glimpse of those Eternal Glories that are upward and beyond. This church has had a number of noted rectors, whose characters appear in some cases to be as opposite as 'the poles.' Pendleton, the celebrated 'Vicar of Bray,' whose ready subservience became a habit, and the sincerely eloquent George Croby, whose brilliant discourses were the admiration of all his fellow citizens, and whose writings on various topics of the day largely influenced public opinion. Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect who designed Blenheim and Castle Howard, was buried here in 1726. Shortly after his remains had been deposited in the church a certain Dr. Evans thus referred to Vanbrugh's massive style : 'Lie heavy on him, earth, for he Laid many a heavy load on thee.' Sir Joshua Reynolds, however, took a different view, and declared that his critics failed to appre- ciate his merits, because 'they knew not the rules of architecture.' 1 02 ST. SWITHIN, LONDON STONE CANNON STREET ST. SWITHIN, LONDON STONE CANNON STREET THE original church was founded in the thirteenth century and rebuilt in the fif- teenth by Sir John Hind (Lord Mayor, 1405), whose body, according to Stow, was 'buried in the bodie of this church with a fair stone laid over him.' This is the only church in London that is named after St. S within or Swithun, who, not having been regularly canonized by the Pope, is regarded as more of a 'home-made' one than any other in the calendar. The rather foolish legend in connection with his name has obscured the more important fact that the pious Bishop of Winchester was tutor to no less a scholar than the great King Alfred. That his in- fluence was for good is amply shown in the life and character of one of England's greatest monarchs. The early church was destroyed in the Great Fire, and the present one erected by Sir C. Wren in 1679 at the cost of 4,687 45. 6d. The somewhat plain tower is 1 50 ft. high. The church was considerably renovated in 1869 and again in 1879. The famous London Stone is to be seen in a niche in the church wall. It formerly stood on the south side of the street, almost facing its present position. Of great antiquity, it is possibly a Roman monument of a military character. Dryden, the poet, was married in the older church just three years before it was destroyed by the Fire of 1 666. 104 ST. MARY ABCHURCH ABCHURCH LANE, CANNON STREET ST. MARY ABCHURCH ABCHURCH LANE, CANNON STREET THE early church built about the twelfth century was destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt in 1686 by Sir C. Wren for 4,922 I os. 4d. (one of his busiest years, three others being completed in the same period). The interior of the church is one of the most beautiful of all his domed constructions, Grinling Gibbons and Sir James Thornhill were associated in its decoration. The earlier church possessed some fine mural paintings by Isaac Fuller, the painter who executed the altar-pieces for Wadham and Mag- dalen, Oxford, and it may be it was owing to this fact that Thornhill was employed to perpetuate the decorative scheme, which can now be seen to better advantage owing to the recent extensive alterations and repairs effected at the cost of well-nigh 5,000. Reference being made from time to time to Grinling Gibbons, it would be well, perhaps, at this juncture to say that he was an Englishman born in Spur Alley, London, and it was at his cottage at Deptford, while busy on his great work, 'The Stoning of Saint Stephen,' that he was discovered by John Evelyn. At Chatsworth there are some marvellous specimens of his skill a carved feather in lime-wood, so cleverly executed as to appear a natural one, and a point lace cravat of remarkable delicacy. Sir C. Wren, to whom he was introduced, did not fail to secure the aid of such a craftsman. The elaborate 108 carving in the reredos and font-cover in this and other of his churches amply testify to the skill of the artist and to Wren's appreciation of genius and love of the beautiful cleverly portrayed. The view of the tower here shown was taken from Sherborne Lane, the only spot from which the style peculiar to Sir C. Wren could bt, surveyed. The view is a very foreshortened one, being taken only a few yards distant from the base of the tower, but in no other way can be seen the great architect's characteristic scheme, which he alone successfully employed namely, a tower independent of the church rising without interruption from the ground, showing its full height and line of support. It is about 140 ft. high and contains four small bells. This church derived its second name from its position, standing as it does upon rising ground. It was early spoken of as St. Mary Ape-church or Up-church. no ST. MARTIN ORGAR MARTIN LANE, E.G. H ST. MARTIN ORGAR MARTIN LANE, E.G. THE ancient church of St. Martin, which according to tradition dated back to the eighth century, and which was founded by Orgar the Dane, was not rebuilt after the Great Fire. A portion of the church, however, which escaped the Fire was used as a French Protestant Church until 1826, when it was pulled down, with the exception of the tower, which stood until 1851, when the present ugly specimen of modern architecture was erected. A part of the churchyard remains, and is planted with trees. After the Fire the parish was served by the church of St. Clement's, Eastcheap. 112 ST. CLEMENT, EASTCHEAP ST. CLEMENT, EASTCHEAP THE ancient church, founded before the end of the thirteenth century, stood fronting Eastcheap, but its aspect to-day is slightly different owing to the construction of King William Street. In the olden days it was nearly opposite the old 'Boar's Head,' where Falstaff and his companions were wont to make merry with Dame Quickly. The present church was built after the Fire, costing 4,365 33. 4d., and was completed in 1686. It is one of Sir C. Wren's plainest constructions. Ori- ginally of red brick, it has since been covered with stucco, and rendered less impressive on that account. The interior is small, with only one aisle, on the south side, and has suffered at the hands of the too- zealous modernizer, whose work here, as in other churches, has been overdone. This church, however, should have a claim upon our regard and attention, if only because of its connection with a trio of famous divines Fuller, Walton, and Pearson all commemorated in the west window. Dr. Fuller was celebrated as church historian and lecturer. Dr. Pearson, who died in 1686 (the year that Wren completed the church), delivered his celebrated 'Creed Sermons' at St. Clement's. Dr. Walton, the author of the 'Polyglot Bible,' often ministered here; he died in November, 1661. 116 Doctors Pearson and Walton became, in turn, Bishops of Chester. This church has also the high honour of having had the greatest of English musicians as its organist Henry Purcell, afterwards organist of West- minster Abbey, and of the King's Chapel. His sacred music, especially his 'Te Deum' and 'Jubilate,' has never been surpassed. 118 ALL HALLOWS, LOMBARD STREET ALL HALLOWS, LOMBARD STREET THE present church, called 'The Hidden Church,' was rebuilt by Sir C. Wren in 1694, after the Fire, at the cost of ,8,058 1 6s. 6d. The early church, the foundation of which dates back to Norman times, was rebuilt in the fourteenth century ; the bell tower was not completed until 1544, and must have been rather a graceful one. Stow refers to it as 'that fayre Steeple,' and laments the fact that it 'hath but one bell.' The bells of the Priory of Jerusalem were bought for the church, but never delivered. The present simple yet elegant church, of the Tuscan order, is very difficult to see, being com- pletely shut in by the surrounding houses. The massive oak gateway that once gave entrance from Lombard Street can now be seen within the porch. The device, which is a very curious one, consisting of crossbones and skulls, is very beauti- fully carved, and bears the inscription : 'This ancient gateway was erected at the entrance in Lombard Street to All Hallows Church soon after the Fire of London, and was removed to this place when the buildings adjoining Lombard Street were rebuilt in 1865.' There is an incident in connection with this church which shows that the remarkable divine, John Wesley, often preached in the pulpits of the establishment, and that he preached here on the I2O 28th of December, 1788 ; there is an entry to that effect in the parish books. On this occasion he referred to something that had happened to himself in this church several years previously. He said : ' On leaving the vestry to go into the pulpit I turned back in some confusion. The attendant said to me, ' 'What is the matter, sir ? Are you ill?" "No," I said, "but I have forgotten to bring my sermon." She replied, "What ! cannot you trust God for a sermon?" Upon this rebuke I went into the pulpit and preached with much freedom and acceptance ; and from that time I have never taken a manuscript into the pulpit.' Thus it was that the founder of Methodism preached his first extern-pore sermon in the pulpit of the estab- lished church. 122 ST. EDMUND, KING AND MARTYR LOMBARD STREET ST. EDMUND, KING AND MARTYR LOMBARD STREET THE church was probably founded in early Saxon times, and is the only church dedi- cated to this saint, who was murdered by the Danes in the ninth century. St. Edmund's-Bury keeps alive the memory of this King of East Anglia 'who governed Christian like.' The ancient church was destroyed in the Great Fire and rebuilt by Sir C. Wren in 1690 for 5,027 is. lod. The steeple, which has an octagonal lantern, was not completed until 1709. It is not unlike those at Emmanuel and Pembroke Colleges, Cambridge, which were erected by the same architect. The position of the church is a singular one, standing, as it does, north and south. The altar is in a niche in the wall at the north end, the recess measuring 16 ft. 18 ins. in width and 12 ins. in depth. The stained glass windows, which have been introduced since the time of Sir C. Wren, obscure what little light he sought to obtain by the plain glass which he originally introduced, and which must have been far more suitable and cheerful. During the Civil War the rector, called Old Father Ephram, was so troubled by the evil times, that for peace sake he gave up the benefice, only to die, however, one year before the King. Addison, the poet, was married here on August 124 9th, 1716, to Dowager- Countess Warwick and Holland. His memorable lines in 'Cato's Soliloquy' seem almost prophetic : 'Through what new scenes and changes must we pass ! The wide, the unbounded lies before me ; But shadows, clouds, and darkness rest upon it.' Three short years of domestic unhappiness, and then the end in 1719. 126 ST. MARY WOOLNOTH LOMBARD STREET ST. MARY WOOLNOTH LOMBARD STREET THE early church which stood on this site was built in the thirteenth century, and took its second name from the nature of the trade carried on then in its vicinity, but which has since been removed to Coleman Street and its neighbour- hood. It was rebuilt in the fifteenth century, and although not completely destroyed in the Great Fire was severely damaged. Its restoration was undertaken by Sir C. Wren, but, this proving unsatisfactory, it was pulled down in 1716 and the present church built, it being opened in the year 1727. The architect, Nicholas Hawksmoor, was one of Wren's pupils, whose office he entered at the age of eighteen, and faithfully served his master for over thirty years as * clerk of the works ' during the building of St. Paul's. He received the munificent salary of one shilling and eightpence per day during that period. The design of this church suggests a continuation of the scheme of his master in the building of St. Paul's. This is the only church in the City which presents the solid and substantial appearance of the cathedral. The commanding site of the building in a measure accentuates this. It is considered a building of great merit, both externally and internally, and possesses some handsome wood carving. 128 John Newton, who was rector of this church for twenty-eight years, has by his association with the poet Cowper bequeathed to the Church of England a better hymnology than Tate and Brady ; for it was he and his greatly beloved friend who compiled 'The Olney Hymns,' which have been a source of in- spiration and hope in our divine services, and will be a power for good in the years that are still to run. He was buried in the church in 1807, and when for sanitary reasons the vaults were cleared the bones of the venerated and saintly preacher were removed to the little churchyard at Olney, where for sixteen years as rector he had ministered with intense earnestness and zeal, 'and where his genial friend- ship with Cowper produced such rich fruits to enrich our literature and song.' 130 ST. MARGARET, LOTHBURY ST. MARGARET, LOTHBURY THE early church on this site dated back to the twelfth century, and stood near the Wall- brook, a small stream which ran past the Royal Exchange and the Church of St. Stephen's, flowing south towards the Thames. This old church was rebuilt in the year 1440. Before the dissolution of monasteries it was in the possession of the Abbey of Barking ; afterwards the gift of the living went into the King's hand, the change taking place in 1540. Repaired in 1621 and totally destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, it was rebuilt by Sir C. Wren at the cost of 5,340 8s. id. It was begun in the year 1686 and finished in 1690. The tower, which is 140 ft. high, is simple in style, yet characteristic of the design so often employed by the renowned architect, the white Portland stone of the tower appearing in pleasing contrast with the small leaden spire which surmounts it three stories. The interior has been enriched by the demolition of other churches in the neighbourhood, the handsome screen and figures on the altar-piece having come from that source. The parishes of St. Martin Pomary, St. Mary Colechurch, not rebuilt after the Fire, St. Chris- topher removed in 1781, St. Bartholomew-by-the- Exchange in 1841, St. Mildred in the Poultry in 1872, and St. Olave Jewry in 1888, are all served by this church. The tower of St. Olave's was not 132 demolished, and now forms part of the vicarage of St. Margaret's. The celebrated 'Golden Lectures/ under the terms of the Jones Lectureship Trust, are annually delivered in this church. 134 ST. HELEN, BISHOPSGATE ST. HELEN, BISHOPSGATE THE style of the architecture of portions of this church, and the fact that mention is made of it in various early documents, indicate pretty clearly that it existed in the thirteenth century. It is thought to be the only church dedicated to St. Helen, and to be a memorial church erected by Constantine the Great, the first Roman emperor to profess Christianity, in honour of his mother, 'Helena,' who early embraced the faith and was said to have discovered a portion of the true Cross at Jerusalem. She died about the year A.D. 326, aged eighty-six years. It was anciently a Priory of Black Nuns, and after the suppression in 1537 the conventual building passed into the hands of the Leather-sellers' Com- pany and was demolished in 1799. Henry VIII, in the twenty-third year of his reign, gave the site of the Priory and the church to Richard Williams, alias Cromwell, and Edward VI in the fourth year con- ferred the jurisdiction of the place upon the Bishop of London and his successors. It has since reverted to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. In 1621 the restoration of the church was begun, and completed at great expense in 1 663. The date is over the south door 'Thomas Aldridge and Wm. Hunt, Churchwardens.' ,1,300 was expended on porch doors, pews, altar-piece, and communion- rails, the works being executed under one of the most celebrated architects of the times, Inigo Jones. 136 The bell turret was erected in 1696, and is about 70 ft. high, containing bells which formerly hung over the gateway entrance. In 1744 a gallery (removed in 1865) was built by subscription, one Thomas Giffen undertaking to build an organ worth 500 in consideration of the receipt of 250 an ^ 25 a year for life, to play it himself or find a substitute. In 1809 further repairs were carried out costing 2,944. The church was thoroughly restored in 1874-6 by the Merchant Taylors' Company and again quite recently. On the north side is a memorial window to William Shakespeare, the gift of an American gentleman who had discovered the name in the parish books under the date 1598. The rate of assessment, which is rather high, suggests that the poet must have lived in a house of some importance in the vicinity. Shakespeare has immortalized the immediate neighbourhood in one of his historical dramas (King Richard III, Act i, Scene 3), Gloucester, after directing the assassins to murder Clarence, adds : * When you have done, repair to Crosby-place. But, sirs, be sudden in the execution, Withal obdurate, do not hear him plead ; For Clarence is well-spoken, and perhaps May move your hearts to pity, if you mark him.' This church possesses monuments and memorials of such interest that it has been called 'The West- minster Abbey of the City.' The tomb of Sir John Crosby is one of the finest remaining in any London 138 church. It has upon it the recumbent figure of himself and his wife. The knight is fully armed, but wears over all his mantle as alderman, and round his neck a collar of Suns and Roses, the badge of the House of York. There are monuments of equal interest to Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the Royal Exchange, Sir John and Lady Spencer Thomas Bancroft, founder of Bancroft's Hospital, and many other celebrities. 139 ST. ETHELBURGA, BISHOPSGATE ST. ETHELBURGA, BISHOPSGATE THIS church is the smallest in London, 51 ft. long and less than 30 ft. wide. It still retains some early English ma- sonry, and is considered to be one of the oldest City churches, dating back to the year 1291. It was repaired and beautified in 1612, and the small spire- steeple in the year 1620. It escaped the Great Fire in 1666, only the steeple being damaged. The church is dedicated to the daughter of Ethelbert, the first Christian King of Kent, and, although the smallest, its name is more prominently displayed than any other church, extending, as it does, right across the diminutive western front. It can claim a martyr in its rector, John Larke, who, in the reign of Henry VIII, was executed at Tyburn, having, it was said, denied the King's supremacy. 142 ST. BOTOLPH, BISHOPSGATE ST. BOTOLPH, BISHOPSGATE THE church of St. Botolph is one of the four City churches dedicated to the saint who was regarded as the special protector of all travellers, and was for this reason chosen as the patron saint of the churches situated at the prin- cipal entrances to the City : Aldersgate, Aldgate, Bishopsgate, and Billingsgate. The latter was de- stroyed in the Great Fire and not rebuilt. The early church of St. Botolph, Bishopsgate, was founded before the year 1291, and stood upon the bank of the Old Tower ditch, without the walls but within the liberties of London. It is referred to by a writer in the early part of the eighteenth century as being 'an old, dark, and low building, but adorned within with several ancient monuments and a spacious picture of King Charles I.' In 1725 it was entirely rebuilt by James Gold, the architect, who, although living under the influence of Sir C. Wren, has given us a very poor imitation of the work of his illustrious contemporary. The steeple, which rises at the east end, is of stone, but so muddled in design that it lacks dignity. The rest of the church is of brick with stone dressings. Edward Alleyn, the founder of Dulwich College and Alleyn's School, was born in the parish of St. Botolph. Dr. Fuller, the celebrated church historian and lecturer, whose church, St. Clement Eastcheap, faced the Old Boar's Head, which became the property of Alleyn, thus refers to the great actor of 146 his day. 'In his old age he made friends of his un- righteous mammon, building therewith a fair college at Dulwich for the relief of poor people. Some confess, count it built on a foundered founda- tion, seeing, in a spiritual sense, none is good and lawful money, save which is honestly and in- dustriously gotten, but, perchance, such who condemn Master Alleyn herein, have as bad shillings in the bottom of their own bags, if search were made therein.' Edward Alleyn did not forget the poor of his parish amongst whom he once dwelt and from whom he made his money. By his last Will and Testament he founded ten almshouses for ten poor people of the parish of St. Botolph's, Bishopsgate, and ten almshouses for ten poor people of the parish of St. Saviour's, Southwark. John Keats, the eminent poet, born in London, October 29th, 1796, was baptized in this church. His memorable lines, 'A thing of beauty is a joy for ever,' can hardly be said to apply to the church at which he was christened. 148 ALL HALLOWS, LONDON WALL ALL HALLOWS, LONDON WALL THE early church dated back to the eleventh century, but, falling into decay, was pulled down in 1764. The present edifice was built in 1767 by Dance, the architect of Newgate Prison. The church still clings to the old London Wall, a portion of which can be seen in the churchyard. The former structure was actually upon the wall, and stood some eight or ten feet above the present level of the street. The excavations made in 1907 revealed the fact that the vestry of the church had been erected on the remains of a Roman bastion, as shown in a drawing exhibited in the Guildhall Museum. A former rector of the church, the Rev. S. J. Stone, has added several beautiful hymns to the church's hymnology. 'The Church's One Founda- tion' and 'Weary of Earth and laden with my Sin' being the best known and loved. 150 ST. GILES, CRIPPLEGATE ST. GILES, CRIPPLEGATE THE church of St. Giles dates back to Norman times (about the year 1090). It is interesting to know that the founder, Alfune, was a friend of Rahere, whose name is so closely associated with the Church of St. Bartholomew the Great. The church stood, as the name suggests, near Cripplegate, a postern or minor gate, like Moorgate, but more ancient, and which was, like many of the other gates, used as a prison. Stow tells us it was so named because 'of cripples begging there,' or was it a corruption of 'Crepel' gate, i.e. an underground passage in a fortified wall ? The old Roman wall, portions of which can still be seen in the churchyard, seems to suggest this. The patron saint of this church, however, is closely associated with the halt and the lame. St. Giles, so the legend runs, refused to be cured of lameness the better to be able to mortify in himself all fleshly appetites and thus have a keener sympathy towards his afflicted brethren. The church is partly Norman and partly Gothic. It was severely damaged by fire in the year 1545, and was practically rebuilt. In 1623 it underwent extensive repairs (six years later the steeple was altered considerably), the four corner turrets ex- tended in height, and the cupola placed in the centre. Within recent years it has been restored and em- bellished at considerable cost. The interior has suffered at the hands of the too zealous modernizer, 154 monuments removed from their ancient settings, pews cut down and galleries removed alterations, which all lovers of the venerable deplore, and wonder why such Vandalism was permitted. It was in this church on August 22nd, 1620, that Oliver Cromwell was married to Elizabeth Boucher, and here lies Foxe, the martyrologist, Frobisher, the traveller, Speed, the historian, and last, but not least, one of England's greatest poets, John Milton. There is a handsome tablet erected to his memory within the church. The sculptor, Bacon, has fitly associated the theme of the blind poet's immortal work, 'Para- dise Lost.' The flaming sword and wily serpent, whose mouth contains the fatal apple, aptly portrays his noblest poem. The whole is surmounted by a bust of the poet. The inscription runs thus: 'Born December, 1608; died November, 1674.' Within recent years a statue of the blind poet has been erected outside the church, on a spot of green grass near the north door. ST. ALBAN, WOOD STREET ST. ALBAN, WOOD STREET THE ancient church was built about the year 930 in memory of St. Alban, the proto- martyr of England, who suffered under the bloody persecution of Diocletian. For sheltering a priest named Amphibalus, who is said to have converted St. Alban, he was condemned and be- headed. The execution took place at Verulam, the latter name being afterwards changed to St. Albans in remembrance of the martyr. Offa, King of Mercia, founded a monastery there 'in honour of God and St. Alban' in the year 793. This in time became one of the richest and most beautiful monasteries in England. In 1 1 54 its superior was invested by Pope Adrian IV with the privilege of taking first place among the mitred abbots in Parliament. This church, which had been entirely or partially rebuilt in 1634, was totally destroyed in the Great Fire. The present structure was erected by Sir C. Wren in the year 1685 at the cost of ^3,165 os. 8d. Its very graceful tower is of Gothic design, and compares very favourably with the other two he built of the same order namely, St. MaryAldermary, and St. Michael's, Cornhill. The present church has suffered much at the hands of the modernizing enthusiast. The brass frame of the old hour-glass upon the pulpit alone remains of all its ancient ecclesiastical furniture. 'These hour-glasses were made use of by preachers in the days of Cromwell, as on their getting up into the pulpit and naming the text they turned up the glass, and if the sermon did not last until the glass was out it was said by the congrega- tion that the preacher was lazy.' We are reminded of a noted preacher, Daniel Burgess, the celebrated Nonconformist divine, who, in a long discourse against the drunkenness of the day, seeing his hearers were beginning to yawn, desired them to be patient a little longer, for he had much to say upon the sin of drunkenness, and turning the hour-glass, which he again tilted over, gravely remarked, 'there- fore, my friends and brethren, we will have another glass.' 1 60 ST. MARY-THE-VIRGIN ALDERMANBURY ST. MARY-THE-VIRGIN ALDERMANBURY THE open space surrounding this church and its pleasant churchyard render it more conspicuous than many others in the City. The early church on this site dated back to the fourteenth century, and was in the possession of the Elsing Priory until the suppression, afterwards becoming a rectory. The parishioners had the right to elect their rector under the licence of the Bishop. Sir William Englefield, Lord Mayor, 1429 and 1437, built the steeple and renewed the bells. This old church perished in the Great Fire, and the present one, by Sir C. Wren, was erected on the old site in 1677, at the cost of ^5,237 33. 6d. The interior gives one a correct idea of the archi- tect's scheme of window lighting ; the plain glass type remains, and with the exception of the eastern window there is no stained glass. All these windows were shattered in the first Zeppelin raid over the City on the night of the 8th of September, 1915. The church fortunately escaped further injury, but alas, such is the irony of fate, that that which the Germans failed to accomplish the ecclesiastical authorities propose to do. The poet Milton was married here to his second wife, Katherine Woodcock, in the year 1656. There is a monument of unusual interest in the churchyard, erected to two men who were fellow- actors with William Shakespeare John Hemmings 162 ffe / "i\ wfiwl&iBSfemto&iVL