TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 VARIOUS COUNTRIES OF THE EAST; 
 
 BEING A CONTINUATION OF 
 
 MEMOIRS 
 
 RELATING TO 
 
 EUROPEAN AND ASIATIC TURKEY, ^c. 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 The Rev. ROBERT WALPOLE, M.A. 
 
 LONDON: 
 PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, 
 
 PATERNOSTER-ROW. 
 1820.
 
 IVinted by A. and K. Spottisuoode, 
 Printers-Street, London.
 
 *DS 
 f8 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 Of the numerous works recently published by travellers in different 
 provinces of European and Asiatic Turkey, and other countries of the 
 East, the parts which afford the least gratification are those relating 
 to the civil and political condition of the inhabitants. They refer us 
 to no improvement in art or science ; no disposition in the people to 
 profit of the acquirements of the more enlightened states of Europe. 
 The fear that the Emperor Selim the Third would introduce some 
 changes in the government, suggested by the practice of Christian 
 countries, was among the causes which led to his deposition and 
 death. The Constantinopolitan press is not more actively employed 
 now than it was when Mr. Browne gave his first account in 1798. 
 No alteration has taken place in the mode of conducting the admini- 
 stration of the provincial governments ; numbers are annually 
 destroyed by the plague, because no means are used to resist its 
 progress ; the communication between different parts of Asia Minor 
 and Syria is interrupted by hordes of robbers ; the chiefs of neigh- 
 bouring districts are engaged in warfare with each other ; and extensive 
 districts, once celebrated for their luxuriant fertility, are abandoned, 
 or badly cultivated. 
 
 The traveller, therefore, directs his attention to other objects ; and 
 these countries abound with many of great and varied interest, suf- 
 ficient to repay him for the difficulties and dangers to which he is 
 exposed. The comparison of the antient and modern geography ; — 
 mineralogical, botanical, zoological pursuits ; — the examination of the 
 remains of antient art ; — observations on the manners and customs of 
 
 A 2 
 
 ' 1S2G154
 
 jy PREFACE. 
 
 the mixed population of the provinces which he visits, present to 
 him an extensive field of research. 
 
 The success with which his enquiries are carried on, depends on 
 the quiet or disturbed state of the country through which he passes, 
 and on the disposition of the ruler of it. The protection afforded by 
 the present governor of Egypt to those who have recently visited that 
 province, and part of Nubia, has given them favourable opportunities 
 for collecting much valuable information. Without his consent, the 
 interesting researches of Burckhardt, Bankes, Salt, Belzoni, Beechey, 
 and Caviglia * could not have even been attempted. 
 
 An examination of some of the emblematical representations on 
 the walls of the temples of Egypt, had induced an intelligent travel- 
 ler ■\ to consider them as confirming the opinion advanced by antient 
 writers, that arts and civilizations were received by that country from 
 Ethiopia. From the recent researches of Burckhardt, we find that 
 many temples of Nubia are of a higher antiquity than those in Egypt. 
 It is probable, that a more minute observation of the remains of sacred 
 buildings in Nubia would throw light on the hypothesis of Sir William 
 Jones, " that Ethiopia and Hindustan were peopled or colonized by 
 the same extraordinary race." X Characters have been found in 
 Ethiopia which have an astonishing resemblance to those of antient 
 Sanscrit, and particularly to the inscriptions in the caves of Canara, 
 in India. § 
 
 From an examination of the paintings in the interior of the se- 
 pulchres, and of the alabaster, marble, and granite figures and bas- 
 reliefs lately found in Egypt and Nubia, we may learn more accurately 
 the state of some of the arts in these countries in very remote ages. 
 
 * 
 
 See the extracts from Mr. Salt's Letters. Quarterly Review, vol. xix. 
 
 f Hamilton's Egyptiaca, pp. 12. 51. See also Diod. Sic. 1. iii. 
 
 J Works, i. 30. Our Indian followers (says Captain Burr, in an account of a visit made 
 to a temple in Egi)pt) who liail attended us, beheld the scene before them with a degree of 
 admiration bordering on veneration, partly from the affinity they traced in several of the 
 figures to their own deities, &c. As. Res. vol. viii. See also Burckhardt's Travels, p. 108. 
 
 § Note byLanglcs to Norden's Travels, vol. iii. 299.
 
 PREFACE. y 
 
 The meaning wliich was conveyed in antient times by the various and 
 symbolical figures depicted on the walls of the temples and tombs of 
 Egypt cannot now be easily explained ; but we may, by the assistance 
 of Mr. Salt and Mr. Beechey, who have bestowed the utmost attention 
 in delineating them, as well as in copying the colours (1) of the paint- 
 ings, understand the sense and allusions which they contained, ac- 
 cording to the interpretation of the later Greeks. 
 
 It is stated by Vansleb and Greaves *, that they observed hiero- 
 glyphical characters on the stones of one of the Pyramids. The 
 positive assertions of Abdallatif, and other writers, and a remarkable 
 passage cited by Holstein (2) from an antient author, appear to prove 
 that a casing or covering had been applied to part of these buildings, 
 and that characters had also been engraved on them. From the ob- 
 servations of Captain Caviglia, who saw on the stones of the mausolea, 
 in the vicinity of the Pyramids, sculptures in an inverted position, it 
 has been reasonably inferred that these might have formed a portion 
 of the covering of the Pyramids. " 'J he numerous characters found 
 on the obelisks and cornices of Egyptian temples may not contain 
 truths of much importance. This consideration however, though just, 
 ought not to lead us to neglect the study of symbolic and sacred 
 letters ; as the knowledge of them is intimately connected with the 
 mythology, the manners, and individual genius of nations." f Some 
 very singular documents have been procured in Egypt J, which have 
 contributed to explain the nature and meaning of the sacred and 
 popular § language of that country. (3) By the researches of future 
 travellers, many valuable additions may be made to the materials 
 already obtained. A fragment of black granite, larger than the 
 Rosetta-stone, and bearing a trilinguar inscription, is described in the 
 
 • " On the north side of tlie second Pyramid I observed a line, and only one, engraven 
 with sacred and Egyptian cliaracters." Greaves. See also Vansleb, p. 137. 
 
 f De Humboldt. Pers. Narr. ii. 152. 
 
 X By Denon, Lord Mountnorris, Mr. Bankcs, Mr. Legh, Dr. Merion, Lord Behnorc. 
 
 § See the Archaeolog. xviii. jNIus. Ciilicum. No. VL and VIL, and the article Egifft, 
 in the Supplement to the Encyclo. Britann. vol, iv.
 
 ^.j PREFACE. 
 
 Courier de 1' Egypte, and was seen by Dr. Clarke in Cairo ; and 
 Coptic monasteries preserve works of considerable antiquity. (4) 
 
 The nature of the fatigues and dangers experienced by Mr. Burck- 
 hardt in his journey through some regions of Nubia *, hitherto im- 
 pervious to European travellers, may be collected from his valuable 
 journals lately communicated to the public. Nothing but extra- 
 ordinary patience, perseverance, strength of body, fortitude of mind, 
 the utmost prudence, an intimate knowledge of the language, manners, 
 and reliffious customs of some of the Eastern nations, could have con- 
 ducted him with safety through the arduous situations in which he 
 was frequently placed. Great difficulties and obstacles appear also to 
 oppose themselves to those who examine another part of the East, of 
 which our knowledge is at present very scanty and imperfect ; — the 
 countries extending from Antilibanus, along the east side of the 
 Jordan, to the south of the Dead Sea. " Travellers never venture 
 across Jordan ; and rivers, mountains, provinces, are for the most 
 part delineated, not according to mensuration from real accounts, of 
 which we have almost none ; but marked at random on the empty 
 space, according to the caprice of the designer." f Our defective 
 information respecting this district will be supplied in a great degree 
 by the numerous and important facts collected by Mr. Burckhardt. 
 Some of the remarks made by the late Dr. Seetzen J, in his journey 
 in these parts, were communicated by him to his friends. His route 
 led him through the provinces of Ituraea, Auranitis, Gaulonitis, Ba- 
 tanaga, and through the territory of the antient Moabites, Amorites, 
 and Midianites. These countries abounding with " fenced cities" in 
 
 * Mr. Burckhardt regrets that he was not able to examine the temple near Soleb, in 
 Nubia, in Dar-el-Mahass. " It appeared to have been of the size of the largest of those 
 found in Egypt." p. 74. Is not this the temple desciibed by Abou Selah, as standing in 
 Dermcs ? (or Dar-Mahass, as it is written in Col. Leake's map of Egypt and Nubia.) " On 
 voit dans ce Bcrba dcs peinturcs magnifiques et dcs colonnes cnormes qu'on ne pent con- 
 templer sans ctre frappe d'etonnement" Memoire sur la Nubie, Quatremere, p. 34. 
 
 f INIichaclis on the Laws of Moses, Art. 23. 
 
 \ A brief Account of the Countries adjoining the Lake of Tiberias, the Jordan, and the 
 Dead Sea. 1810.
 
 PREFACE. y[[ 
 
 the time of the Israelites, and well peopled and flourishing under the 
 Romans, and in the first ages of Christianity, are now either deserted 
 or overrun with Nomad Arabs. The site of many towns was ascer- 
 tained by Dr. Seetzen and Mr. Burckhardt, retaining under a cor- 
 rupted form the names which they bear in the sacred writers. They 
 discovered remains of the public works of the Romans, 
 
 Temples and Theatres, Baths, Aqueducts, 
 Statues, Triumphal Arcs. — (Par. Reg. iv.) 
 
 and some of the ruins appeared to rival in extent and magnificence 
 those of Balbec and Palmyra. The testimony borne by Mr. Burck- 
 hardt to the qualifications and talents of Dr. Seetzen, leaves us no 
 room to doubt, that if his papers had been preserved, they would have 
 afforded vei'y valuable materials for the illustration of the geography, 
 mineralogy, and botany of this unfrequented country. 
 
 An eminent writer and theologian * of the last century expresses 
 a belief, that the stones on which Moses ordered the law to be en- 
 graved f may be found in some future time in Palestine. No where 
 in the Bible is any mention made of the discovery of these stones ; 
 nor indeed any further notice taken of them than in Joshua, viii. 30., 
 where their erection is described. Many curious illustrations of the 
 antient connection between Egypt and Phoenicia may be reserved for 
 future travellers. An intercourse subsisted at an early period be- 
 tween them ; some of the religious ceremonies of the latter were de- 
 rived from the former ; the monument of Carpentras J shows in a 
 striking manner the connection between the two countries ; Phoe- 
 nician characters are there written under figures strictly Egyptian ; 
 and the first letter § of the Phoenician alphabet is found intermixed 
 with the cursive writing of Egypt on some of the linen teguments of 
 mummies. JNIr. Wood thought it not improbable that he might dis- 
 
 * Michaelis on the Laws of Moses. Smith's Translation, Art. 69. 
 
 f Deut. xxvii. 1 — 8. t Acad, des Inscr. vol. xxxii. 725. 
 
 § Barthelemy, CEuv. Divers, part ii. p. 392.
 
 ^jjj PREFACE. 
 
 cover (5) hieroglyphics in the part of Syria which he visited. The use 
 of these characters was not confined to Egypt ; they were observed by 
 De Haven and Niebuhr * in the desert, on their route to Sinai ; and 
 they were employed by the Israelites, in the sixth century before the 
 Christian aera, in representing the idolatrous rites which are described 
 by the prophet, f 
 
 No one is ignorant how much light has been thrown on many parts 
 of the Holy Scriptures from the works of different travellers in the 
 East. The illustrations which may still be derived from the same 
 source are very numerous ; but the value of them will be proportioned 
 to the opportunities of observation possessed by the traveller, and to the 
 knowledge which he obtains of the customs, institutions, and languages 
 of the East. " The sacred historian of the children of Israel," 
 Mr. Burckhardt X observes, " will never be thoroughly understood, 
 so long as we are not minutely acquainted with every thing relating to 
 the Arabian Bedouins, and the countries in which they move and 
 pasture." Syriac is still spoken § in some parts of the government of 
 Damascus ; and Niebuhr was informed, that Chaldaic was the language 
 in use among the Christian inhabitants of many villages in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Merdin and Mosul ; and he supposes that a person 
 properly qualified would derive much benefit from residing for the 
 space of a year with the monks of the convents, situated near these 
 towns. " But in order," says Michaelis, " to understand properly 
 the writings of the Old Testament, it is absolutely necessary to have 
 an acquaintance with the natural history, as well as the manners, of 
 the East. We find in that volume nearly three hundred names of 
 vegetables ; there are many also drawn from the animal kingdom, 
 and a great number which designate precious stones." The questions 
 which this great Biblical scholar proposed to the Danish travellers, 
 
 • See Niebuhr, vol. L p. 189. Amst. 1776. The inscriptions afe given in Plates 45, 46. 
 
 f Ezek. viii. 10. 
 
 X Life and Memoirs of Lewis Burckhardt, p. Ixxxiv. 
 
 § See p. 209. of this volume.
 
 PREFACE. ix 
 
 relate almost entirely to the illustration of the Scriptures. " In a 
 word," he adds, " while we think we are only occupied with under- 
 standing the most antient book in the world, we find ourselves in- 
 sensibly engaged in studying the greatest part of the natural history, 
 the geography, and manners of the East. I cannot, in fact, name any 
 other book, (at least where the subject is moral,) which is able to 
 render, in this respect, the same service to science." * 
 
 It appears from the life of Bruce, that he had been informed, during 
 his residence in Crete, of some remarkable ruins on the opposite 
 coast of Asia. He procured a letter to a powerful Turkish governor, 
 whose influence would have given him access to many of the 
 Aghas of Caramania ; but an illness by which he was attacked at 
 Castel Rosso, prevented him from undertaking this journey. The 
 dissensions between the different Aghas are among the great obstacles 
 to a traveller's progress in Asia Minor ; he has also to contend with 
 the mistrust and jealousy of the governors of many of the different 
 provinces. We know, therefore, little of the interior of the country, 
 of its natural productions, of the various remains of antiquity, of the 
 situation of towns celebrated in Sacred and Profane history. A very 
 interesting route was pursued by General Koehler and his com- 
 panions in the year 1800, through Bithynia, Phrygia, and Pisidia. 
 From the bearings and directions noted in that journey, and from 
 comparing the testimonies of antient writers with the observations of 
 modern times, Col. Leake has been enabled to construct a mapf far 
 superior in accuracy to any we have yet possessed. A valuable addition 
 to our geographical knowledge of the southern part of Asia iNIinor has 
 been derived from the survey made by Captain Beaufort, of the Cara- 
 manian shore, so erroneously laid down in our charts. In the course 
 of his observations he was led occasionally to visit the extensive ruins 
 
 * See the Prefiice to liis Questions addressed to the Danish Tfavellers. 
 
 f This is puijiished by Mr. Arrowsmith. The small map inserted in this volume, edited 
 also under the care of Col. Leake, illustrates the route of Mr. Browne, and his own, and 
 that of General Koehler on his return to Constantinople. 
 
 VOL. II. a
 
 ^ PREFACE. 
 
 of cities which once flourished on that coast. The illustration of 
 different passages in the writers of antiquity is one of the advantages 
 resultino- from researches carried on in Greece, Asia Minor, and 
 Syria. We are now able, by Captain Beaufort's assistance, to under- 
 stand the meaning of the different expressions applied by them to the 
 Chima'ra. He describes his visit to this Flame ; the Everlasting Fire, 
 as it has been sometimes termed, A0ANATON DTP, which burns on 
 Mount Olympus, in Lycia. (6) 
 
 The correction of some of the errors which prevail respecting the 
 creoo-raphy of Asia Minor, was among the objects of enquiry which 
 Mr. Browne had pi'oposed to himself in his journey through that 
 country. '* I at first intended, (he observes in his manuscript papers,) 
 to have taken my station at several different points, and to have directed 
 my investigation at leisure, and as occasion should offer from each of 
 them ; the only way, I am convinced, of forming a correct idea of the 
 country." His progress, however, through Asia Minor, was hastened 
 by a desire " to return to Egypt, in consequence of the success of the 
 campaign, and the contemplation of the advantages which it seemed 
 to offer to the traveller." He refers, in his papers, to various geo- 
 graphical observations made in his route ; and states the reasons that 
 led him to consider some of them of less authority than others, and 
 the nature of the obstacles that prevented him from conducting his 
 researches in a manner more satisfactory to himself. * 
 
 * " Of several of the latitudes I think myself certain ; aiul these are inserted. Those of 
 •.vhich circumstances have rendered me doubtful, whether justly or not, I have suppressed. 
 They were taken with a seven-inch sextant, which, being fond of practical astronomy, was 
 in my hands as often as occasion would permit. In Anatolia, few meridian altitudes 
 were taken, being at a season when the sun was too high. They were chiefly of two alti- 
 tudes, and the elapsed time of a star, or of the moon, in Meridian. 
 
 " I had a chronometer, which failed very early after I received it ; and was never after- 
 wards of any use ; and I had a telescope by Dollond proper for observations of satellites; 
 but which I was fearful of carrying with me through Anatolia, as it had narrowly escaped 
 out c)l" the hands of a Douanier, who wanted to purchase it; and I wished especially to 
 preserve it for the use I hoped to make of it in the neighbourhood of Egypt. I had also 
 some lunar observations ; but most of them were made in places remote from habitations, 
 and not repeated in the same spot, so as to be of less authority than might be wished." 
 
 From Mr. Browne's MSS.
 
 PREFACE. 5.J 
 
 In his travels through Asia Minor, Mr. Browne assumed the dress 
 of a Musulman. His acquaintance with some of the languages of the 
 East, which was more perfect in his second journey than in the first, 
 enabled him to appear in that character without much fear of being 
 discovered. In consequence also of this disguise, he had more fre- 
 quent and intimate communication, than travellers in general, with 
 the people of the country. During his residence at Constantinople, 
 his attention seems to have been directed to the Manners, * Customs, 
 Government, state of Literature, and Education among the Turks ; 
 some interesting remarks on these subjects are printed in this volume, 
 extracted from " Miscellaneous Observations" found among his papers. 
 
 The talents, character, and general acquirements of Mr. Browne ; — 
 the nature of the qualifications which rendered him well fitted f to 
 explore the countries of the East ; — the motives which induced him to 
 undertake his last journey ; — and the circumstances attending his 
 death ; — are described in the biographical memoir of that traveller, 
 inserted in the present work. I have received this valuable con- 
 tribution from the same gentleman to whom we are already indebted 
 for the Life of Mr. Mungo Park. 
 
 In comparing the state of our knowledge of the different provinces 
 of the Turkish empire, we find that our information respecting Greece 
 is more copious than that which we have obtained concerning other 
 parts. It is not difficult to assign the reason of this. The population 
 consists, in a great proportion, of Christians ; and the intercourse, 
 therefore, with the inhabitants is more frequent than any which can 
 be carried on with a people under the influence and prejudices of 
 Mahometanism. We derive great assistance in conducting our re- 
 searches in Greece, from this circumstance ; and much more would 
 have been done towards obtaining an accurate account of many se- 
 
 • The illustration of part of the system of Police adopted in Constantinople forms the 
 subject of a valuable paper in this volume, communicated by Mr. Hawkins ; see p. 2S1. 
 
 f " The talents and perseverance of Mr. Browne were such as will seldom be found united 
 in the same person. His friendship for me I can never forget; and to his excellent ad- 
 vice I owe much of my success." — Burckhardt's Travels, p. 349. 
 
 a2
 
 ^jj PREFACE. 
 
 eluded districts, if difficulties had not arisen from the insecurity of 
 travelling through them. But, notwithstanding the inconveniences 
 and privations to which all travellers are subject in countries where 
 the civilization is imperfect ; and the consequent disadvantages under 
 which they labour in carrying on their observations, the information 
 obtained concerning it is very great. The materials, collected with 
 considerable labour by JNIr. Hawkins, Col. Leake, and Sir W. Gell, 
 will remove many defects from our maps of Greece. Important en- 
 quiries * relating to the Architectural antiquities of the country, to the 
 state of the art at an early period, as well as to the improvements of a 
 later age, when it had reached a great degree of perfection, have been 
 made since the days of Stuart. The works of Dr. Holland, Mr. Hob- 
 house, and Dr. Clarke, have supplied us with much valuable in- 
 formation. The papers of the late Dr. Sibthorp (which I have been 
 permitted to consult again) were not prepared in any manner for- the 
 press f ; but the extracts printed in the present volume, and those al- 
 ready before the public, reflect the highest credit upon him. His 
 researches have greatly advanced our knowledge of the natural 
 history of Greece, and of some of the islands of the Archipelago ; his 
 list of birds, fishes, animals, and plants, is more complete than any 
 which had been ever made ; and many of his remarks on the pro- 
 ductions of the soil, and on various subjects connected with the Agri- 
 culture and Statistics of the country, are entirely new. 
 
 Three papers are inserted in the present volume, relating to parts 
 of the East not connected with the Turkish empire. An addition 
 to the title :j: enabled me to insert, consistently with the enlarged 
 plan of the work, these contributions, which will be found to increase 
 
 * I allude to the excavations in ^^gina, and at Phigalcia, conducted by Messrs. Forster, 
 Cockerel!, Linck, and the late Baron Haller. See also the " Antujuities of Attica," 
 published by the Dilettanti Society; the introduction to Wilkins' Vitruvius; Wilkins' 
 Allieniensia; and particularly the paper in this volume communicated by Mr. Hawkins, 
 relating to a temple in Euboea. 
 
 f The reader is requested to apply this remark to the Journal also of Col. Squire. 
 
 { The second edition of the first volume is entitled, Memoirs relating to European and 
 Asiatic Turkey, and other Countries of the East.
 
 PREFACE. ^jjl 
 
 the interest of it ; they contain an account of some Greek and Ar- 
 menian settlements in Little Tartary ; — a notice of some remarkable 
 monuments found on the site of the antient Susa, in Persia ; — and a 
 narrative of a Journey from Suez to IMount Sinai. 
 
 It has been properly suggested, that the different JNIemoirs in this 
 work might be better arranged by placing those together which refer 
 to the same country or subject. But unless all the papers intended 
 for publication were in my possession at the same time, this classifi- 
 cation could not be made. I was desirous of attendino; to it in the 
 present instance ; but those who have kindly assisted me with theii" 
 communications were prevented by various causes from sending them 
 at a time when they might have been inserted in parts of the volume 
 which I intended to appropriate to them. 
 
 (1) " Tlie throne of some of the deities, when chequered with blacJc and xsliite, was em- 
 blematical of the variety of sublunary things. The sun being a body of pure licrht, his 
 garment, according to Plutarch, was to be of the same colour, uniformly bright and lumin- 
 ous ; though Macrobius clothes the winged statues of the sun, partly with a light, partly 
 with a blue colour. Isis being considered as the earth strewed with a variety of produc- 
 tions, her dress was to be spotted and variegated with divers colours. The tresses of her 
 hair, when they are of a dark blue colour, denote the haziness of the atmosphere." — Shaw's 
 Travels. 3G2. 
 
 (2) " Dc marmorca Pyramidarum incrustatione conjectura verissima mihi videtur, qua 
 lapidcs postea subiatos et in alium usum conversos suspiceris. Nimis enim securus, no 
 dicam supinus, auctor iile fuisset (Philo Byz.) si tam clara in re tam turpiter errasset." 
 Holstenii. Epis. ed. Boissonade, p. 4(;y. The passage in Philo is found in Gronov. Tlies. 
 G. ?i.. viii. TO. fiiv lo-Tiv ^ Trerga Xfux^ xai fjia^fj-ughic. See also Abdallatif, Version de S. 
 de Sricy,and Goguet's remark (tome iii.) on the description of the Pyramids by Herodotus. 
 
 (3) Before the discovery of the llosetla stone, and the collection of numerous Papyri, 
 made by different travellers, inquiries relating to the Egyptian language, and its con- 
 nection witli the Sacred character, must have been comparatively vague and uncertain ; I 
 shall therefore note, as briefly as possible, some opinions relating to this subject. 
 
 " The Egyptians," says Warburton, " carried the picture through all the stages quite 
 down to letters, the invention of this ingenious people." Works, i. 401. " L'Alphabetde 
 la Langue Egyptienne emanoit des Hieroglyphes." Caylus, t. 1. " M. Barllielemy avoit 
 mis cette excellente thcorie de M. Warburton dans un plus grand jour, en placant sur 
 une colonnc diverscs lettres Egyptiennes en correspondance avec Ics hieroglyplies qui 
 les avoient produits." See also Guguet. t. i. 1 90. 
 
 The Chinese language has also, according to some writers, been considered as a modifi- 
 cation of hieroglyphics; but a different account is given in the clear and able statement 
 made by Barrow. (Travels, 245.)
 
 xiv PREFACE. 
 
 The authors to whom we liave referred, consider the Egyptian laiigunge as derived 
 from hieroglyphics; but the learned Heeren questions the possibility of sucii a derivation. 
 See p. '127. of this volume. " The difficulty is, to conceive how marks which arc signs 
 for things should become signs for "words." " Comment aura t-on passe des hieroglyphes 
 aux caracteres alphabetiques? C'est ce qu'il n'est pas aise de concevoir." Goguet. i. 1!>0. 
 Warburton endeavours to explain the process. 
 
 De Pauw pronounces, on the subject of the Egyptian language, in his usual positive 
 manner. " Les Egyptiens ont eu un caractere alphabetique, a peu-pres seniblable au 
 notre; mais il ne s'ensuit pas qu'il eussent invente ce caractere en perfectionnant leurs 
 hieroglyphes, comme quelques savans Font pretendu." See also Larcher, Herod. Liv. ii. 
 note 125. 
 
 According to the laborious investigation printed in the fourth volume of the Supple- 
 ment to the Encyclopaedia Brit., and the Remarks in the Museum Criiicum, No. VI. the 
 common or popular writing of Egypt was not " purely alphabetical." p. 54. It contained 
 chai'acters of this kind connected with others derived from hierogli/phics, as prototypes. 
 
 (4) J'ai appris d'Ibrahim Ennasch un des plus savans Coptes de Kahira qu'il avoit vu 
 dans les couvents Coptes des jivres ecrits en langue de Pharaon et indechiffrables a ceux 
 de leur propre nation. — Forskal quoted by Niebuhr. 
 
 (5) " We had been in Egypt a fevv months before, and by comparing the linen, the 
 manner of swathing, the balsam and other parts of the mummies of that country with those 
 of Palmyra, we found their methods of embalming exactly the same. The Arabs had seen 
 vast numbers of these mummies in all tlie sepulchres; but they had broken them up in 
 hopes of finding treasures. We offered them rewards to find an entire one, but in vain ; 
 which disappointed our hopes of seeing something curious in the Sarcophagus, or perhaps 
 of meeting with hieroglyphics." — Wood's Palmyra. 
 
 (6) Pliny alludes to the singular phsenomenon in the reference made by Captain Beau- 
 fort ; but there are two passages, one in Photius, and another in Maximus Tyrius, which 
 deserve to be transcribed. " I saw," says Methodius, " on Olympus, a mountain in 
 Lycia, fire rising spontaneously near the summit of the mountain, from the earth below. 
 Around the fire grew the Agnus, a plant so flourishing, green, and shady, that it appeared 
 rather to spring from a fountain." Photii. Bib. p. 924. ed. Schotti. 
 
 '• Trees, brush-wood, and weeds grow close round this crater." Beaufort's Caramania, 
 p. 48. 
 
 " Olympus sends out a fire, not like that of j^iltna, but quiet and regular." Max. Tyr. 
 Diss. viii. 
 
 " It was never accompanied, the guide told Captain Beaufort, by earthquakes, or 
 noises ; and it ejected neither stones, smoke, nor noxious vapours." p. 49.
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 I. On the Tar Springs of Zante (communicated by Mr. Hawkins) Page 1 
 
 Situation of the Tar Springs. — Nature of the Hills ivhidt surround the Valley 
 and Morass -where they are found. — Remarkable Insalubrity of the Spot. — Luxu- 
 riance of Vegetation on the Western Border of the Morass. — The Northerfi Spring 
 the most abundant in the Liquid Mineral. — Atteinpt to discover "whether the Bitumen 
 issues out of the Rock, or comes out of the Peat of the Morass. — Nature and Ap- 
 pearance of this Substance "mhen first taken out of the Water. — Uses to "which it is 
 applied. — Bitumen also found to arise from the Bottom of the Sea in an adjoining 
 Bay. — Analysis of some of the Saline Water from the Northern Spring. — Result of 
 an Experiment made by Distillation of the Tar. 
 
 II. Voyage in the Grecian Seas. — Princes' Islands. — Dardanelles. — Cyprus. 
 
 — Islands of Lero, Patmos, Stenosa, Argentiera, Euboea. — Mount 
 Athos. — Isthmus of Corinth (from the Papers of the late Dr. Sib- 
 thorp) - -- 7 
 
 Chap. 1 . The Princes' Islands. — Mines of Chalke. — Plants. — Fishes. — Departure 
 from Constantinople. — Arrival at Abydos. — Asiatic and European Coasts of the 
 Dardanelles, — Anchorage at Karabaglar on the Coast of Anatolia. — Birds and 
 Fishes. — Rhodes. — Cyprus. — Favourable Situation at Larnakafor examining some 
 of the Plants and Birds of Cyprus. — Excursion to the Mouidain of the Holy Cross. 
 — Plants and Birds observed on the Mountain. — Famagusta ; neglected State of the 
 Fortifications -, desolate Appearance of the Countiy. — Visit to the Convent of 
 Antiphoniti. — The Lignum Rhodium. — Arrival at iSlicosia. — Mmintain of Troados; 
 Plants a7id Birds. — Descent into the Vale of Soulca. — Immense Beds of petrified 
 Oysters, Pectines, Balani. 
 
 Chap. '2. Sail for Rhodes ; anchor 7iear Bafo; the Diamond Hills, — Use of the 
 Leaves of Cistus Monspelicnsis. — Departure Jrom Cyprus ; land on the Coast of 
 Asia Minor. — Tcstudo Grceca, 'J'estudo Lutaria, liana Esculenta. — Arrival at 
 Rhodes. — The Island of Lero; active Labours of the Peasantiy. — Patmos ; Dress 
 and Appearance of the Women; Birds. — Island of Stenosa; Plants. — Beautiful 
 Species of Scants caught off' the Island. — The Lunaria of Tourncfoi't. — Argentiera ; 
 Lead, Copper, and Iron Ores. — Sail for Athens ; singidar Appearance of an Eclipse 
 of the Sun --_.---- 24
 
 XVI 
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Chap. 3. Passage between the main Land of Attica and Negropont. — Composition 
 of the Rocks and Mountains on the Eastern Coast of Attica. — Immense Heaps of 
 Schlag, and Vestiges of Mines. — Atrival at the Town of Negropont. — Excursion 
 to Mount Delphis in Euhcea. — The Verd Antique of the Anticnts. — Return to 
 Negropont ; Nature of the Rocks in the Vicinity of the Toivn. — Magnetic Iran 
 Ore. — Sail for Athos. — Exairsions to different Monasteries : Ascent to the Summit 
 of the Mountain: Plants and Trees. — Departure for Salonica ; and Arrival qt 
 Cenchris on the Isthmus of Corinth. — Sail for Patras - - - Page 3 + 
 
 III. Discovery of the Remains of the Acropolis of Patmos (from the Journals 
 
 of Mr. Whittington) - - - ... 43 
 
 IV. Second Voyage in the Grecian Seas (from the Papers of the late 
 
 Dr.Sibthorp) 46 
 
 Chap. 1 . Departure from Constantinople. — Beautiful and striking Appearance of 
 the City and neighbouring Coasts. — Marmora. — Substance and Composition of the 
 Rucks. — Unhealthy Situation of the Town of the Dardanelles. — Plants. — Marine 
 Conchylia. — Birds. — Arrival at Imbros. — Shells. — Vegetable Productions of the 
 Island. — Festival in honour of the Panagia or Madomia. — Porphyry, Pitch-stone, 
 Jasper, Iron-stone, and Yelloxv Earth of Imbros. 
 
 V. Lemnos (from the Journals of Dr. Hunt) - ... 54 
 
 Anchorage at Lemnos. — Character of the Turkish Governor. — Dress of the 
 Female Inhabitants. — Hot Springs. — Anecdotes of the celebrated Hassan Pasha. — 
 Volcajiic Appearance of the Island. — Duties and Taxes. — Prices of variojis 
 Articles. — Return to Castro. — Visit to the Didascalos. — Excursion to Palaio- 
 Castro. 
 
 VI. Continuation of Sibthorp's Journal . - - - 63 
 
 Plants on the Beach and Rocks of Athos. — Ascent to some of the Hermitages. — 
 The Convent of St. Paul. — Nature and Form of the Building, — Servian Monks. — 
 Departure from Athos. — Thcssalian Mountains. — Anchor at Skiatho. — Nature of 
 the Rocks of the Island. — Depi-edations committed by the Albanians. — Voyage con- 
 tinued. — Gulf of Volo. — Shores of Negropont. — Monastery. — Mi7~aculmis Legends. 
 
 — Coast of Bceotia. — Arrival at Negropont. — Fishes, — Plants. — Shells. 
 
 VII. Journal relating to Parts of the ancient Elis, Arcadia, Argolis, Laconia, 
 
 Messenia, and the Islands on the Western Shores of Greece (from the 
 same) - - - - - - - 75 
 
 Chap. 1. Departure for Zante. — Arrival at the Harbour of Pyrgo in the Morea. 
 
 — Alarms of Banditti. — Soil. — Plants. — Pyrgo. — Greek Physicians. — Lalla, — 
 Military Appearatice and Character of the Lalliotes. — Deveri. — Scenery of 
 Arcadia, — Tripotamo. — Arrival at Tripolizza.' — Visit to the Pasha. — Argos.
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. " xvif 
 
 Cliap. 2. Mistra. — Unsettled State of the Country. — Political Spendations of 
 the Greclcs. — Visit to Sclavo-chorio. — Singidar Bepresentations in Bas-relief. — 
 Sparta. — Exairsion to Ilhome. — Wood of' the Holy Cross. — Cronan of Thorns. — 
 Remains of Messene. — Beautifid Structure of some of' the antierit Gates. — Cor one. 
 
 Confinement and Concealment of the Tttrkish Women. — Turkish Wedding. — 
 
 Embark at Corone. — Slat'wns of the Turtle Doves. — Zantiote Sportsmen. — 
 Cephallonia. — Mari?ie Eruvia. — Plants. — Coast of Ithaca. — Channel of Leucadia. 
 — Santa Maura. — Prevcsa. — Fishery. — Anecdote of Count Curburi. — Riiins of 
 Nicopolis. — Sail from Corfu. — Island of Fanno. — Plants and other Productions. — 
 Mode of Farming in Zante. — Depraved State of Society in the Island under the 
 Venetian Government __.-__ Page 88 
 
 VIII. Journey from Constantinople through Asia Minor, in the Year 1802, 
 (from the Papers * of the late William George Browne, Esq.) 106 
 
 Chap. 1 . Nicomedia. — Kara-mursal — Journey thence to Broussa. — Lake of 
 Nicira. — Bazarkue. — Dcscripition of Broussa. — Baths. — Environs. — Character 
 of the Inhabitants. — ConHagration in 1301. — Popidation of the City. — Silk. — 
 Armenians, and their Bishop. — Mount Olympus. — Journey to Toushanlu — thence 
 to Kutaieh. — Afium-kara-hissar. — Ak-shehr. — Elghhi. — Konieh. — Mewlawi Der- 
 wishes. — Mamifactures. 
 
 Chap. 2. Yeshil. — Kara-bignar. — Erakli. — Passage of Mount Taurus. — 
 Turkmans. — Tarsus, and thence to the Coast. — Embarkation. — Voyage to Arsus, 
 and thence across the Mountain to Aiitioch. — Some Account of Antioch. — Remarks. 
 — Productions and Trade. — Kutchuk Ali Pasha. — Departure from Antioch. — 
 Arrival at Ladakie. — Maronite Farmer of the Miri. — Mischievous Santon. — 
 Passage to Larneka in Cyprus - - - - - 124 
 
 Chap. 3. Journey from Smyrna to Constantinople. — Greek Sailors. — Arrival at 
 Smyrna. — Jelembe. — Balikcsr. — Kuirdes. — Lake Ultd)ad. — Yenishehr, — Niccca. 
 — Kizderbetid. — Corrupt Manners of the Female Inhabitants. — Hersek. — Mug- 
 grebine Soldiers. — Arrival at Constantinople - - - - 1-10 
 
 IX. Miscellaneous Remarks written at Constantinople, 1802. (from the 
 
 Papers of Mr. Browne) ..... 148 
 
 Government. — Revenue. — Depreciation of the Coin. — State of Education. — 
 Notice of various Customs. 
 
 X. Biographical Memoir of Mr. Browne - - - - 1 62 
 
 XL Letter from Mr. Browne to the late Smithson Tennant, Esq., dated 
 Tabriz (on the frontiers of Persia), July 16. 1813. - - I76 
 
 XII. Prices of Commodities at Smyrna in the Years I78O, 1790, 1800, and 
 1812, procured by Mr. Browne, at the desire of Mr. Tennant 177 
 
 * The Editor is indebted to the Rev. Mr. Blakeway, of Shrewsbury, executor of Mr. Browne, for per- 
 mission to print these extracts. 
 
 VOL. II. b
 
 jj^yjjj TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 XIII. Journey through some Provinces of Asia Minor in the Year 1800. 
 (communicated by Lieut. Col. Leake) - - Page 185 
 
 Chap. 1. Difficulties experienced by the Traveller in exploring Asia Minor. — 
 Little Knowledge hitherto obtained of the Interior. — Object of the following Jmirnal. 
 
 Survey of Part of the Coast by Captain Beat fort Nature of the Information 
 
 furnished by preceding Travellers. — Antient Authorities respecting the Geography of 
 
 Asia Minor. Assistance to be derived from an Examination of the actual liemains 
 
 of Antiquity. — Departure from Constantinople. — Kartal. — Ghcbse. — Temperature 
 of the Climate. — Kizderwent. — Situation of the Lower Class of the Christian 
 Population in Asia Minor. — Lake Ascanius. — Niccea. — Site of ancient Towns 
 between Constantinople and Nicaa. — Rui7is of this City. 
 
 Chap. 2. LcfJic. — Cidtivation of the Country. — Dress and AppearaiKc of the 
 People. — Shughut. — Eski-shehr, the antient Dorylceum. — Seidel-Ghazi. — Mode 
 of extracting the Turpentine from the Pine-trees. — Rocks excavated into Sepulchres 
 and Catacombs. — Remarkable and interesting Mo7iument of Doganlu. — Characters 
 i7iscribed on the Rock. — Attempt to ascertain the Site of Nacoleia. — Opijiion 
 respecting the Sculpture and Inscription at Doganlu. — Kosru Khan. — Inscription to 
 Jupiter Papias. — Bulwudun. — Isaklu. — Ak-shehr. — Ilgun. — Ladik. — State of 
 the Climate - - - - - - - - 201 
 
 Chap. 3. Re7nai7is of the a7itient Laodiceia. — Re7narkable Appearance of the 
 Mou7itai7i Karadagh. — Clear/iess of the At7nosphere. — Ko/iia. — Visit to the Pasha. 
 
 — Palace. — Mode of Reception. — Walls of Ko7iia. — Produce of the Cou7itiy 
 a70U7id. — Ma7mfactur(s. — Sepulchre of the Founder of the Order of the Mevlevi Der- 
 vishes. — Number of Pe7-so7is of this Order of Monks. — Illust/-ation of the Geography 
 of this Part of Asia Mi7iur, — Plain of Konia. — Tchumra. — Ma7iners of the 
 Inhabitants. — Kassaba. — Kara/nan. — Itsh-il. — P/vbable Site of Lystra and 
 Derbe. — Cilicia Trachceotis. — Comparative Rate of T7-avelli7ig of the Ho/se and 
 CuTnel, — Asce7it of Mount Tau7-us. — Nume/vus Excavatio7is in the Rock, made in 
 antie/it Times for the Puiposes of Sepulture. — Mout - - - 22 1 
 
 Chap. i'. Depajture from Mout. — Bra7ich of the Calycad7ius. — Sheik A/mtr, — 
 Striking Appea7-ance of the Scenery of the Count7y. — App7-oach to the Coast of 
 Carama7iia. — Gidnar, or Cele7ide7-i. — Situation of Olbasa, Philadelphia, a7id Dio 
 Ccesarea. — E7nbark for Cyp/iis. — Lcfkosia. — Lar7iaka. — Depa/-tu/-e fv/n Cyprus 
 for Satalia. — A/ichor at Kharadra 07i the Caramanian Coast. — Alaia. — Route of 
 General Koehler, 07i his return to Consta7iti/iople, thi-ough Asia Mi7ior. — Me7iovgat. 
 
 — Dashashehr. — Ge/ieral Appeaiance of this Pa7-t of antie7it Pa77iphylia. 
 
 Satalia. — River Catar/actes. — Ka7abunar Kiui. — Remarkable Pass in the Mo?m- 
 tains. — Tchaltigchi. — Ma7iners of the People. — Climate. — Bu7-dur. — Do7nbai. — 
 Sandakli. — The River Thy7nbrius. — Kutaya. — Inoghi. — Artificial Excavations 
 in the Rocks. — Shughut - _-----_ 238 
 
 XIV. Extracts from the Journals of Dr. Hume relating to Parts of Cyprus ; 
 and a Description of the Bay of Mannorice, on the Coast of Cara- 
 mania - . - . . . 046. 252.
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. xix 
 
 XV. Remarks on the antient and modern Geography of Parts of Asia Minor 
 
 (communicated by Col. Leake) ... Page 2(34 
 
 XVI. Some particulars respecting the Police of Constantinople (communi- 
 
 cated by Mr. Hawkins) 281 
 
 XVII. An Account of the Discovery of a very antient Temple on Mount 
 Ocha, in Euboea (from the same) .... 285 
 
 Font and Appearance of the Southern Coast of Eubcea. — Object of the Visit to 
 that Part of the Island. — Carysto. — Ascent of the Mojtntain St. Elias. — Quarries 
 of Carystian Marble. — Remains of a Greek Temple on the Sttmmit of the Moun- 
 tain. — Observations relating to the Structure and Character of the Building. — 
 Conjecture respecting the Name of the Deity to whom the Temple was dedicated, — 
 Extensive Fiewfrom the Summit of St. Elias. — Population of the District. 
 
 XVIII. Travels through Part of the antient Coele Syria, and Syria Salutaris 
 (from the Papers of the late Lieut. Col. Squire *) - - 293 
 
 Chap. 1 . Tripoli. — Situation of the Town. — Roadstead. — Commerce. — 
 Turkish Sepulchres. — Different Routes from Tripoli to Balbec. — Cultivation of 
 the Districts inhabited by the Maronites. — Arrival at Baitroun. — Intci-view with a 
 Prince of the Druses. — Balbec. — River Chryson-hoas. — Remains of Sculpture on 
 a Rock. — Damascus. — Structure and Foi-m of the Houses in that City. — Distri- 
 bution of Water in the Vicinity of the Town, — Mosque. — Bazars. — Sepulchres. — 
 Departure from Damascus. — Cteifa. — Lake formed by the Orontes. — Termination 
 of the Nm-them Part of Libanus. — Hems. — Greek Inscription. — Hamah. — 
 Mode of raising Wafer for the Supply of the Town. 
 
 Chap. 2. Route to Marrah. — Scraqueb. — Aleppo. — Visit to the Grand Vizier, 
 
 — Dissensions in that City between the Pasha and Janisarics. — State of the Turkish 
 Government in Syria. — Departure of the Grand Vizier for Constantinople. — 
 Manufactories at Aleppo. — Turcomans, — Curds, — ElmaJias. — Plain of Antioch. 
 
 — Course of the Orontes. — Towers and Walls of antient Antioch. — Caramout. — 
 Beilan. — Scanderoon .....--- - 325 
 
 XIX. Letter to the Editor oh a remarkable Eg}'ptian Bas-relief inscribed 
 with Greek Characters ; together with a Postscript, containing some 
 Observations upon other Egyptian Antiquities, t By Edward Daniel 
 Clarke, L.L.D. - - - - - - 353 
 
 * Printed by permission of the Rev. E. Squire. Mr. W. Hamilton and Lieut. Col. Leake were the com- 
 panions of Col. Squire in this journey in Syria. 
 
 t Owing to the discovery of an immense Soros of one integral mass of rock-crystal in Peru, Dr. Clarke 
 was led to conjecture that Belzoni's Soros might be of the same nature (see p. 360.); but he has since re- 
 ceived letters from Egypt, written by persons who have seen this Soros, and they describe it as a mass of 
 Alabaster. 
 
 b 2
 
 ^^ TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 XX. Journey from Suez to Mount Sinai (communicated by J. N. Faza- 
 
 kerley, Esq. M. P.) Page 36'2 
 
 C/iap. 1. Departure from Cairo, — Object of the Journey of the Pasha of Egypt 
 to Suez. — Petrified Wood. — Illusion occasioned by the Miraf^e. — Desolate Appear- 
 ance of Suez. — Preparation of the Flotilla against the JVahabee. — Departure for 
 Mount Sinai. — Appearance of the Desert. — Plants. — Variableness of the Climate. 
 — Scarcity of Rain in the Desert, — Narratives and Stories of the Bedouins. — 
 Mode of preparing their Food. — Bedouin Women. — Tents of the Arabs. — Ap- 
 jnoach to the Convent of Sinai. — The 'Traveller Seetzen. — Excursion to the top of 
 Mount Sinai. — Legends of the Monks and of the Mahometans. 
 
 Chap. 2. Ascent of the Mountain (f Saint Catherine. — Vieivfrom the Summit. — 
 Valley of Rephidim. — Departure from Mount Sinai. — Different Tribes of the 
 Arabs. — Tor. — Shells, Corals, Madrepores of the Red Sea. — Remarkable sounds 
 issuing from a bank of Sand. — Observations of the stars by the Arabs. — Application 
 of the names Camel and Dromedary. — Arrival at Suez. — Abyssinian Women. — 
 Gazelles, or Antelopes. — Reference made to them by the Arabs 'jsheii speaking of 
 their Women ------ - - - -374 
 
 XXI. On a Law of Custom which is pecuHar to the Islands of the 
 
 Archipelago (communicated by Mr. Hawkins) - - 392 
 
 XXII. On the Labyrinth of Crete (communicated by Mr. Cockerell) 402 
 
 XXIII. On the Sculptures of the Parthenon (communicated by Mr. 
 Wilkins) - - . - ... 409 
 
 XXIV. Notice of some remarkable Monuments of Antiquity discovered on 
 the Site of the ancient Susa in Persia - - - 420 
 
 XXV. Remarks relating to the Natural History of Parts of European Turkey 
 (from the Journals of the late Dr. Sibthorp) - - 432 
 
 Medicinal arid Economical Uses of Plants sold in the Bazar a7id Herb-stalls of 
 Constantinople. 
 
 Birds of the Island ofZante. — TJie different Periods of their Migrations 435 
 Additional Remarks on the Natural History of Zante, and of Mount Athos 439 
 
 XXVI. The Arabic Inscription discovered in the Pyramid of Chephrenes, 
 by M. Belzoni ; and a Translation of the same by the Rev. S. Lee, 
 Professor of Arabic in the University of Cambridge - 450 
 
 XXVII. Account of a Journey through Part of Little Tartary, and of some 
 Armenian, Greek, and Tartar Settlements (from the Journals of 
 Mr. Whittington) ..... 457 
 
 Armenian Settlement of Nachtchivan. — First Appearance of the To-wn. — Popu- 
 lation, — Flourishing State of the Colony, — Rude Statues belonging to the Tumuli 
 on the Stepps. — Religious Ceremonies attending the Elevation of the Cross over the
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Xxi 
 
 Dome of the principal Church at Nachtchivan. — Arrival at Taganrog. — Popii- 
 lation. — Trade of this Place with Turkey. — Bmite between Taganrog and 
 Mariapol. — Tents^ Dress, Appearance, and Mode of Life of the Calmuks. — 
 Mariapol, a Settlement of Crimean Greeks. — Airival in the Territory of the Nonay 
 Tartars. — Account of their Habits and Manners. — Striking Contrast presented by 
 the Industry and Cultivation visible in a Settlement of Prussian Sectaries, 
 
 XX VIII. On the Site of Dodona (communicated by Mr. Hawkins) Page 473 
 
 Difficulty of collecting from antient Authors any precise Accounts of the Situation 
 of Dodona. — Reasons for believing it is to be sought on the Confines of Thesprotia 
 and Molossia. — The Route jnirsued by Dr. Holland ?w this Part of Greece seems to 
 trace the Line which sepaiates those two Provinces. — A mountainous Ridge, forming 
 a Portion of this Line, is Mount Tomarus, at the Foot of which the Temple was 
 placed. — Notice by the Anfients of some Circumstances which marked the Spot whei'e 
 the Building stood. — The Mountains of Suli coi-respond with the Situation of 
 Tomams. — Some Account cfthe Remains of Greek Work in Bronze, which were dis- 
 covered at Paramythia ; forming, probably, part of the consecrated Offerings and 
 Gifts belonging to the Temple of Dodona. — Appropriation of the Names Tliyamis 
 and Acheron to the modern Calama, and to the River of' Suli. 
 
 XXIX. Letter from the Earl of Aberdeen to the Editor, relating to some 
 Statements made by M. R. Rochette, in his late Work on the Authen- 
 ticity of the Inscriptions of Fourmont . _ . 439 
 
 XXX. Inscriptions copied in various Parts of Greece, and communicated by 
 Lieut. Col. Leake ...... 50S 
 
 XXXI. Remarks on the preceding Inscriptions by the Editor - 515 
 
 XXXII. Letter from Mr. Cockerell to the Editor respecting the very 
 singular sepulchral Monuments and Inscriptions discovered by him 
 on the Southern Coast of Asia Minor - ... 524 
 
 XXXIII. Remarks on the Inscriptions discovered in Asia Minor by Colonel 
 Leake, and Mr. Cockerell (by the Editor) - - 526 
 
 XXXIV. Inscriptions copied in different Parts of Asia Minor, Greece, and 
 Egypt, illustrated by the Editor * - - - - 534 
 
 * The Editor returns his thanks to the Hon. and Rev. G. Neville, late Vice-chancellor of the University of 
 Cambridge, for permission to use the types of the University-press, in representing the very perfect and 
 valuable inscription in the Appendix.
 
 DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER 
 
 PLACING THE PLATES, S^c. 
 
 Map of Asia Minor - - - - - To face page 185 
 
 Remarkable Inscriptions in Asia Minor - . - . . 207 
 
 Western View of the Temple on Mount Ocha . - . . 288 
 
 Plan and Section of the Temple on Mount Ocha - - - 289 
 
 Map of Part of Syria - - - .... 29e) 
 
 Vignette, Egyptian Idol - - - - - - - 361 
 
 Labyrinth of Crete - - - . . . . 4,05 
 
 Athenian Vase - - - - - - - -410 
 
 Stone discovered at Susa - - - „ . . . 426 
 
 Monograms and Characters on a Bust of Isis .... 430 
 
 Inscriptions on the Sepulchres of Lycia - - .... 524 
 
 Two Plates representing a Marble Head found among \ ^^ ^^ ^/^^^^ at the 
 
 the ruins of the antient Tyre - - - ' r / • 
 
 Votive Tablet dedicated to Pan - .^ - -J 
 
 * The impression of tliese three plates has been presented to the work by J. Lee, Es<i. The Marble Head 
 was purchased by him in Syria ; the Votive Tablet at Athens.
 
 The reader is requested to notice the following errata; as well as the corrections pointed out by Col. Leake in the 
 subjoined letter, addressed to the Editor. 
 
 Page 6. 1. 15. for Schmeiner, read Schmeiiser 
 
 115. 1. 3. note, for Blumenhack, read Blionenbach 
 
 160. 1. 1 7. for costs, read cost 
 
 288. 1. 18. for Cijiolino, read CipoUinn 
 
 384. 1. 1 7. for race-horse, read cart-horse 
 
 390. 1. 29. dele under ,- 
 
 1. 30. after draught, insert, of pure ivater, 
 
 391. 1. 1. fortca(fT, read stuff 
 
 450. 1. 2. for Cephrenes, read Chephrenes 
 
 Dear Sir; — As the sheets of my paper upon Asia Minor passed through the press without my having an 
 opportunity of revising them, some inaccuracies of style have inevitably been left, which the reader will detect ; but 
 there are also a few errata, of which it seems necessary to take more particular notice. I send you, therefore, the 
 following 
 
 CORRECTIONS: I am, Dear Sir, Yours sincerely, 
 
 W. M. L. 
 Page 189. 1. 10. for and Mottraye, read de la Moltraue 
 
 193. 1. 24. to the names of travellers in this line, add that of Choiserd-Govffier 
 
 199. 1. IS. 18. for GhMza, read Ghiviza 
 
 203. 1. 17. read Shughut was bestowed upon Ertogrul, the father of Osman, by the Sultan of Konia 
 
 238. In contents of Chap. IV. for Satalia (Catarractes), read Satalia — rii'cr Catarractes 
 
 243. 1. 9. for Ermerek, read Emienek 
 
 276. 1. 22. 25. for Salassh, read Lalassis 
 
 278. 1. 23. fill up the blank with Ghilioun, and 1. 4. from the bottom, for Rhegmis, read Rhegmi 
 
 279. 1. 4. for Koryhos, read Korghtis, for Lames, read Lamos ,1.9. for the latter name, read the name of Sebaate 
 
 280. 1. 25. for lying between Cremna arid Sagalasms, read lying in the country about Cremna and Sagatassui 
 280. last line, for Sagalassa, read Sagalasius
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 VARIOUS COUNTRIES OF THE EAST. 
 
 ON THE TAR SPRINGS OF ZANTE. 
 
 [COMMUNICATED BY MR. HAWKINS-I 
 
 SitiMtion of the Tar Sp-ings. — Nature of the Hills which surround the Valley and Morass 
 where they are found. — Remarkable Insalubrity of the Spot. — Luxuriance of Vegetation 
 on the Western Bm-der of the Morass. — The Northern Spring the most abundant in the 
 liquid Mineral. — Attempt to discover 'whether the Bitumen issues out of the Rock, or 
 oozes out of the Peat of the Morass. — Nature and Appearance of this Substance whenfrst 
 taken out (f the Water. — Uses to which it is applied. — Bitumen also found to arise from 
 
 the Bottom of the Sea in an adjoining Bay Analysis of some of the Saline Water from 
 
 the Northern Spring. — Result of an Experiment made by Distillation of the Tar. 
 
 X HE celebrated tar springs of Zante are situated in a morass at the 
 head of a bay called Cheri {x^^'i)i near the south-eastern extremity 
 of the island. 
 
 This morass is of an oval form, and appears to be about one quarter 
 of an English mile in its longest diameter. It is closely invested by 
 hills on all sides, except on the south-east, where a narrow bar of 
 shingle, about three hundred yards in length, separates it from the 
 sea. This bar, by damming up the waters, has probably converted 
 the area within into a morass, the surface of which has now nearly 
 risen to the same level. 
 
 VOL. n. B i
 
 2 
 
 TAR SPRINGS 
 
 The surrounding hills consist of a calcareous free-stone called pori 
 Ittouoi) by the natives, containing no organic remains : the same stone 
 occurs in all the maritime parts of Greece, and along the shores of 
 the Adriatic. 
 
 With respect to the morass, it is composed of a perfect peat to a 
 orreat depth, which has no bitumen in its composition ; not even in 
 the vicinity of the tar springs. 
 
 The soil of the hills is light and of a ferruginous colour to the very 
 borders of the morass, where it quickly changes into a black vege- 
 table mould. This mould has been found to be so remarkably 
 favourable to vegetation, that the whole western part of the morass 
 at the head of the vale has been converted into vineyards, interspersed 
 with fig, peach, quince, and pomegranate trees, which produce an 
 abundance of fruit of a superior size and flavour. This spot, how- 
 ever, is distinguished not less for the shortness of vegetable life, than 
 for the luxuriance of its vegetation : for whereas in other parts of the 
 island the currant vines do not begin to bear fruit in any quantity 
 before the fifteenth year after they are planted, and continue to 
 flourish during one hundred years, or more ; they here yield fruit in 
 the third year, and become barren and exhausted after the fiftieth. 
 
 The intelligent native who favoured me with this information 
 added, that the vines on the slopes of the neighbouring hills were 
 observed to be slower in attaining pei'fection, and in arriving at the 
 period of their decay, in proportion to the distance at which they 
 grew from the morass, until they reached a point where the usual 
 laws of maturition and longevity took place. 
 
 The lower and uncultivated parts of the morass are overgrown 
 with sedge, rushes, reeds, and other aquatic plants, which give it the 
 appearance of an English swamp. 
 
 On the borders of this morass rise several small springs of water, 
 the collected streams of which, after being carefully conducted 
 through the cultivated grounds, have opened a passage through the 
 bar of shingle into the bay.
 
 OF ZANTE. 3 
 
 It is in consequence of this redundancy of water, of the heat con- 
 centrated by the surrounding hills, and the want of a free circulation 
 of air, arising from the crateral ' form of the vale, that this spot is 
 remarkably unwholesome during the summer and autumn ; when a 
 stay here of one day is not to be made with impunity ; and a night's 
 sleep proves fatal. On this account every habitation is far removed, 
 notwithstanding the labour, and the frequent attention which are 
 required for the cultivation of the vineyards. 
 
 Such is the situation of the celebrated Tar Springs of Zante, which 
 were visited and described by Herodotus above two thousand years 
 ago. No material change seems to have taken place here since his 
 time, except that which is the natural consequence of the neglect in 
 which they have long lain ; the progressive growth of the peat having 
 choked up the small lakes or pools described by that author. 
 
 The two springs which produce the bitumen are situated on the 
 two opposite borders of the morass. The northern, which produces 
 the greatest quantity of the mineral, has a less copious discharge of 
 water than tlie other. It is distant about thirty yards from the 
 border, and rises out of a small circular excavation in the solid peat, 
 which has been made for the purpose of collecting the bitumen. 
 This substance gradually oozing out of the earth below settles at the 
 bottom of the pit, which serves as a reservoir for collecting it. Here 
 the traveller is conducted to view this curious phaenomenon ; and 
 here, as in the days of Herodotus, he may still dip his myrtle-bough 
 into the water, and draw out the liquid mineral. 
 
 Some vestiges are observable of an old wall, which seems to have 
 enclosed a space of some extent around the spring. The depth of 
 the pit, which I measured with a rod, proved to be about six feet ; 
 but in order to ascertain whether the bitumen really issued with the 
 other stream out of the rock below, or merely oozed out of the peat 
 in which it originated, it was necessary that the pit should be so 
 completely drained as to expose the bottom to view. This was an 
 enterprise which required more than ordinary exertions ; nevertheless, 
 I had the satisfaction of witnessing its execution, during my residence 
 
 B 2
 
 4 TAR SPRINGS 
 
 at Zante in the year 1795, when the Venetian Admiral Correr, who 
 felt the same desire of satisfying his curiosity in regard to the origin 
 of the tar spring, selected for tiiis purpose the most able-bodied men 
 from his ship's crew : these he divided into gangs, who, relieving each 
 other by turns, worked with such spirit and perseverance, that at the 
 end of two hours we had the satisfaction of seeing the bottom of the 
 pit nearly empty. 
 
 The spring of water was then observed to issue from the peat at 
 the depth of four feet only from the surface, unaccompanied with 
 bitumen. The bottom of the pit was nearly three feet deeper in the 
 peat, and no signs appeared of the rock beneath it. Here some 
 o-allons of the bitumen were found collected ; but still no fissures 
 were perceivable, from which it issued ; nor could the smallest 
 particle of the mineral be observed in the substance of the peat, 
 which was fresh broken at this depth for examination. It is, there- 
 fore, probable, that the bitumen oozes in very minute portions out 
 of the rocky substratum which, in spite of all our exertions, it was 
 not possible to clear entirely and expose to view. If a judgment can 
 be formed from the inclination of the nearest ground on the boi'ders 
 of the morass, the solid rock could not be at the depth of many feet 
 below this level ; and here, if any inference may be fairly drawn from 
 observations on the other tar spring, it is probable that the bitumen 
 first rises. 
 
 The quantity of bitumen annually extracted from this pit is said 
 to be about twenty barrels ; and its faculty of re-production is 
 reported to increase with the quantity taken out. The water has a 
 strong saline taste, and the usual temperature of the springs in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 The southern tar spring, which lies at a short distance from the 
 sea on the opposite side of the vale, issues out of the stratified rock 
 on the edge of the morass. 
 
 Here a more copious discharge of water takes place, and this 
 is perfectly fit for drinking. Its temperature measured 65° of 
 Fahrenheit, which is about the mean temperature of the climate.
 
 OF ZANTE. 5 
 
 The bitumen in like manner stagnates at the bottom, but on account 
 of the shallowness of the water is very distinctly perceivable, and 
 affords a most amusing spectacle ; for when agitated by the least 
 motion of the water, it assumes a variety of focms that are given to 
 it by the impulse and whirling direction of the stream ; while the 
 small particles of bitumen which are successively detached from the 
 rest of the mass, and rise up to the surface of the water, spread into 
 a fine cuticle, that reflects all the iridescent colours observable on 
 the smooth faces of some sorts of fossil coal. In this state thev are 
 borne away by the current, and quickly succeeded by others. 
 
 It is said that the bitumen boils up plentifully with a south or a 
 south-easterly wind. 
 
 This substance, when first taken out of the water, has the same 
 degree of fluidity as honey. It differs little in colour, lustre, opacity, 
 and smell, from melted pitch, but hardens a little on exposure to 
 the air. 
 
 The two springs are usually farmed by an inhabitant of the town, 
 who disposes of the bitumen at a low price, for the use of boats, to 
 which, when thickened by an admixture of pitch, it is said to be well 
 adapted ; but it has a corrosive quality when applied to ropes, which 
 renders it unfit for the purposes of rigging. 
 
 In calm weather, this liquid bitumen is observed to rise from 
 the bottom of the sea, in several parts of the adjoining bay, particu- 
 larly between the small island of Marathonisi and the cape of 
 Cher), at the distance of one quarter of a mile or less from the 
 land. The depth of water is here from twenty to thirty feet ; and 
 the bottom is composed of a whitish clay. This phaenomenon is 
 particularly striking in the calmest summer weather ; the bitumen 
 spreading like oil over the surface of the water. On bawling up the 
 anchor of an English privateer here during the American war, it 
 was found smeared over with bitumen, intermixed with a greyish 
 coloured clay. This circumstance was communicated to me by an 
 eye-witness.
 
 g TAR SPRINGS OF ZANTE. 
 
 Although in the present advanced state of geological science the 
 tar springs of Zante have ceased to excite astonishment, yet they 
 may still be classed with propriety among the rare phaenomena of 
 the earth. They ape indebted however for their chief importance 
 to their classical celebrity, having been visited and described by 
 Herodotus, and noticed by many other writers of antiquity. * 
 
 I find some mention of them in the earliest of our modern 
 travellers through the Levant ; and to the end of Marsigli's Account 
 of the Bosphorus, printed in 1681, there is annexed a small and 
 very inaccurate map of their situation. The particulars given by 
 Wheler, Spon, and Chandler are short and unsatisfactory ; and the 
 works of more recent travellers convey no better information. 
 
 In the year 1792, an analysis was made, at my request, of two 
 pounds weight of the saline water from the northern spring, by 
 Mr. Schmeiner, who found the contents to be as follows : 
 
 Sulphate of magnesia 
 
 - 90 grains. 
 
 Sulphate of soda 
 
 - 40 
 
 Selenite 
 
 - 10 
 
 Muriate of lime 
 
 - 28 
 
 Muriate of magnesia 
 
 - 24 
 
 Muriate of soda 
 
 - 172 
 
 Resinous matter 
 
 - 8 
 
 
 372. loss 4 
 
 According to the report of the same able chemist, eight ounces 
 of the tar yield by distillation two ounces of oil, similar to that 
 which is known under the name of Petroleum. During the distil- 
 lation a sulphureous smell is perceived. The residue of the distil- 
 lation was a black bitumen, which, when dissolved in linseed oil 
 boiled over oxyd of lead, yielded a fine varnish. 
 
 * The historian Eudoxus ; vide Antig, Caryst. ; also Dioscorides, Vitruvius, Pliny.
 
 VOYAGE IN THE GRECIAN SEAS. 
 
 PRINCES ISLANDS. — DARDANELLES. — CYPRUS. — ISLANDS OF LERO, 
 PATMOS, STENOSA, ARGENTIERA, EUBOEA. — MOUNT ATHOS. — ISTHMUS 
 OF CORINTH. 
 
 iFROAf THE PAPERS OF THE LATE BR. SIBTHORP.'] 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 The Princes Islanck. — Mines of Chalice. — Plants. — Fishes. — Departure from Constan- 
 tinople. — Arrival at Abydos. — Asiatic and European Coasts of the Dardanelles 
 
 Anchorage at Karaliaglar on the Coast of Anatolia. — Birds and Fishes. Rhodes. 
 
 Cyprus. — Favourable Situation at Larnakafor examiniiig some of the Plants and Birds of 
 Cyprus. — Exairsion to the Mountain of the Holy Cross. — Plants and Birds observed on 
 the Mountain. — Famagusta ; neglected State of the Fortifications ; desolate Appearance of 
 the Country. — Visit to the Convent of Antiphoniti. — The Lignum Rhodium. — Arrival 
 at Nicosia. — Mountains of Troados ; Plants and Birds. — Descent into the Vale ofScndea. 
 — Immense Beds cf petrified Oysters, Pectincs, Balani. 
 
 The Princes Islands are seven in number, and about six leagues 
 distant from Constantinople : two of them are uninhabited rocks, 
 called from their shapes Oxeia and Plateia. The first of the islands 
 is named from its position, Protos ; that which is opposite to it, 
 Antigone ; the third, famous for its copper-mines, Chalke ; another 
 is called Prinkipos. These islands are extremely pleasant during 
 the summer ; at which time they are visited by the Greeks of the 
 Fanal *, and the Frank merchants who have here a temporary re- 
 sidence. Chalke is particularly beautiful ; the island breaks into 
 mountains of irregular form, and of no great elevation ; they are of 
 
 * The Byzantine Greeks were accustomed to retire to the islands of the Propontis, as 
 the Romans to the shores of Campania. Pro Campanite ora fuit iis Propontis vicina, 
 et Prjnceps, Prota, aliaeque adjacentes insulae. Casaub. in Sueton. 260, — E.
 
 o PRINCES ISLANDS. 
 
 an argillaceous soil, strongly impregnated with iron and * copper : 
 the copper-mines are found on the south side of the island, close 
 upon the shore. We observed some pieces of stone incrusted with 
 a plumose malachite ; and portions of the rock strongly tinted with 
 a copper colour. The ore, however, did not appear rich ; and from 
 its little produce was probably neglected on the discovery of more 
 valuable mines. The rocks on the northern part of the island are 
 red. The heath, Erica multiflora, is the predominant plant; the 
 Pinus Pinea is seen in many different parts of the island ; and a wood, 
 through which we walked to the Agia Triada is entirely composed 
 of it. Arbutus, Myrtle, and Phillyrea are spontaneous shrubs ; and the 
 smooth and prickly broom, with the Cassia of the poets, grew in 
 great abundance. Of the three monasteries, those of the Agia 
 Triada and Agios Georgios are extremely fine, commanding rich and 
 extensive sea views. Under the Agia Triada, descending by vine- 
 yards through a pine grove, we arrived at a fine bay for fishing and 
 bathing; and here were the ancient copper mines. Under the 
 monastery of St. George, there are evident appearances of ponds 
 which formerly communicated with the sea. A great variety of good 
 fish is caught on the shores, particularly the mullet, f We paid 
 five piastres for drawing the net ; but unfortunately it broke ; and 
 the capture was not large : we procured only a few mackerel, 
 Scombri, and different species of Labri. Very fine lobsters are 
 caught here ; large oysters, scallops, v.Tevic, and muscles, which are 
 called jM.J^io'. X I observed some birds now on their passage : Upupa 
 Epops, a small species of Motacilla, the red and black butcher- 
 
 • " The soil of Chalkis presents every where indications ofa volcano : on the hill nearest 
 the viliajTe is found a hard brittle rock, which appears tlrriiginous." Olivier, 1. — E. 
 
 t " We were every day served (says Olivier, speaking of one of the neighbouring 
 islands,) with oysters, muscles, and several fishes; such as mackerel, bonito, turbot, and 
 particulaily the bearded mullet." See also Busbequius's account of the fishery of these 
 islands. Epis. iv. — E. 
 
 % KTe'vsf is the ancient word, see Aris. H. A. and Athenae. 1. 3. MuSia is a corruption 
 from the antient Mu^. See Eustathius quoted by Du Cange in v. ofLu^iov. — E.
 
 DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE. 9 
 
 bird were common. We saw the Merops apiaster in the vineyards ; 
 some cormorants flew along the shore ; and the Larus ngevius 
 watched our net while we were drawing it. A very small part of 
 the island is cultivated with corn, vineyards, and Melon grounds ; 
 the olive does not seem to flourish in its cultivated state. I observed 
 some Jujube trees in the gardens, which are here called Ziziphi. 
 There is no Turk resident at Chalke ; and singing, dancing, drink- 
 ing, occupy and amuse the Greek, unawed by the presence of 
 his oppressor. 
 
 March 14. 1787. — At four in the afternoon we sailed from the 
 port of Constantinople in the Bethlehem, a Venetian merchant 
 ship, bound for Cyprus ; the weather stormy ; the wind north, with 
 snow. 
 
 March 16. — We anchored the preceding evening at Lampsaki, 
 and left it at eight this morning ; and at eleven, cast anchor before 
 Karagaria, on the Asiatic shore, about two miles distant from the 
 Dardanelles. The country is bare, rising into liills covered with 
 Poterium spinosum ; and here and there a few plants of the Astra- 
 galus Tragacantha. Some divers, particularly the Colymbus cristatus 
 of Linnseus swam near our ship, and different species of sea-gulls, 
 particularly the Larus ridibundus, flew screaming along the shore. 
 I observed on the beach different species of Confervae and Fuci. 
 
 March 17. — Having visited the town of Abydos, and received some 
 civilities from our consul, we ferried over to Sestos. I mounted 
 the hill which commands the town, and had a distant view of 
 Tenedos and the Straits, as well on the Asiatic as on the European 
 side. The mountains of the Asiatic shore, rising higher than those of 
 Europe, were still covered with snow : those of the latter were 
 skirted with the Pinus pinea. The soil clayey, lightly covered with 
 sand, but poorly cultivated, produced nearly the same plants which 
 I had observed on the Asiatic shore, with the following which I had 
 not seen there : 
 
 Daphne Tar ton r air a 
 Anemone hortensis 
 
 VOL. 11. c
 
 ,Q DARDANELLES. 
 
 Crocus vernus fl. luteo 
 Cerastium pentandrum 
 Fumaria spicata. 
 
 I saw several cranes crossing in large, but regular companies from 
 the Asiatic side to the European. In a gTove of Planes in the out- 
 skirts of Abjdos, the Sturnus Cinclus was not unfrequent, of which I 
 shot a male and female. 
 
 March 18. — Our captain stopping to take in wine at the Dar- 
 danelles, we went on shore at Abydos. Leaving the town, we 
 walked along the banks of the Rhodius ; and penetrating three or 
 four miles into the country we found it well cultivated with corn and 
 vineyards. The Rhodius is a mean inconsiderable river, whose 
 supplies at present were derived from the melting of the snow in the 
 neighbouring mountains. Sand-banks here and there interrupted its 
 course ; and the sides were skirted with osiers, not yet in flower. 
 The Ardea cinerea stalked majestically along its banks ; one of 
 which I shot ; and a small species of Alotacilla, the M. trochilus, 
 flew from willow to willow. 
 
 March 19. — At seven in the morning we dropped down from 
 Caragaria ; at eight past by the Dardanelles ; and shortly after took 
 in our captain, who had been to the custom-house to clear the ship. 
 We sailed with a fresh breeze, passing Cape Janissary ; and were 
 abreast, of the island of Tenedos, opposite to the Trojan shore, at 
 twelve o'clock. 
 
 March 20. — At day break we were off the north-west part of IMjtilene; 
 we coasted along the island the whole day with a fresh easterly wind ; 
 and at sunset were between the main land of Asia and the northern 
 extremity of Scio. 
 
 March 22. — The wind had changed to the north in the course of 
 yesterday ; and blew now from the east ; and threatened us with a fresh 
 gale, which soon quickened into a storm. The sea ran very high ; 
 lashed our vessel with relentless fury ; and we shipped the waves with 
 sufficient frequency to alarm us. A considerable quantity of corn
 
 COAST OF ASIA MINOR. 
 
 11 
 
 belonging to the sailors was damaged by the entering of the sea- 
 water. In vain we attempted to stretch over to the port of Mycone ; 
 but having gained the entrance of the great Bogaz, between Samos 
 and Nicaria, we were in some measure sheltered from the fury of the 
 wind by the neighbouring mountains of Samos ; these are of con- 
 siderable height ; one of them in the north-west extremity of the 
 island was still covered with snow. The wind which had somewhat 
 sunk at noon now rose upon us with greater fury than in the 
 morning. The timidity of the captain had prevented us from carry- 
 ing sufficient sail ; and at the approach of evening we found ourselves 
 exposed to a wild sea with a furious wind. The sun set, and left us at 
 some miles distance from a port on the Asiatic shore, whose mouth 
 barricadoed with rocks rendered our entrance both difficult and uncer- 
 tain. The wind whistled wildly along the ropes ; confused the cry 
 of the mariners ; the steersman heard indistinctly the report from 
 the shrouds ; irregular flashes of lightning glimmered faintly before 
 us ; and with the Avhite foam at the prow rendered the horrors of 
 our situation visible. After some moments of uncertain existence, 
 having passed several small rocks, we anchored in the evening at 
 Karabaglar, about fifteen miles distant from Boudroun, the ancient 
 Halicarnassus. 
 
 March 23. — In the morning the wind blowing hard, with a great sea, 
 we were prevented from going on shore. It moderated in the evening, 
 and we launched the boat, and went to a few scattered liouses on the 
 beach, called by the sailors the Capudan Pasha's watering place. 
 Here a fountain of excellent water, a Turkish burying ground, and 
 some white-washed buildings formed a picturesque scene. A rising 
 hill on the left is commanded by an old castle, now in ruins, built 
 by the Genoese. The mountains are composed of (xriinstein (of 
 which Nos. 1. and 2. are specimens) ; and near the beach we found 
 great quantity of pumice. (No. 3.) I was surprised at the number of 
 plants we observed in flower. 
 
 . c 2
 
 12 COAST OF ASIA MINOR. 
 
 March 24. — In the morning we went on shore, and coasting along the 
 beach I collected towards the north point several plants, which I had 
 not seen in my walk of the preceding day. We returned to the 
 watering place over some low hills from which the eye surveyed a 
 rich highly cultivated vale planted with fig-trees. We shot a species 
 of swallow, peculiar to the southern parts of Europe, the Hirundo 
 melba ; the Fringllla cyanocephalus, and the Strix passerina. 
 
 March 27. — I went on shore to herborise ; on my return to the boat 
 I found oiu' sailors had been draffoina the net ; but had caui^ht few 
 fish. I observed the following species ; Sparus Sargus, Chromis, 
 Zeus Faber, and Mullus Barbatus. In our walk we noticed a species 
 of Land Tortoise, Testudo Graeca* : and very frequent on the banks 
 of a rivulet, Testudo lutaria ; and we shot the female of the Tetrao 
 rufus ; and the Motacilla flava. In my different herborisations I 
 collected the following plants, f 
 
 March 28. — We got under weigh, and doubled Cape Petera. We ob- 
 served some high mountains of Asia still covered with snow ; and passed 
 by at a considerable distance, on the Asiatic shore, Boudroun ; and 
 stood for Cape Crio, which we were abreast of at seven o'clock. 
 The followino; morning we were becalmed between the coast of Asia 
 and the island of Rhodes ; about mid-day a light breeze sprung up 
 from the east ; as it was contrary, we put into Port Cavaliere on the 
 Asiatic coast, where we dropt anchor at four in the afternoon. 
 Craggy rocks of grey marble veined with white rising to a consider- 
 able height walled in the shore ; the ruins of an ancient town, per- 
 haps Cressa, and plots of cultivated ground, furnished a diversity of 
 plants whose beauty was not less striking than their variety. 
 
 March 30. — Our sailors having drawn the net early in the morning, 
 caught a considerable quantity of the CoryphtBua Pompilus ; among 
 the smaller fishes, I observed the Sygnathus Hippocampus, Typhle 
 
 * The Testudo lutaria is sometimes eaten in Lent by the Christians of the East : but 
 the Land Tortoise is preferred, as more wholesome. Russell's Aleppo, ii. 222. — E. 
 •j- A list of 1 82 plants is given in the MS.
 
 RHODES. 
 
 13 
 
 and Acus ; the Sparus Boops, Dentex, the Labrus luhs, and the 
 Muraena Conger. Captain Emerv walking among the ruins of the 
 town, found a Porcupine's quill, from which we imagined the Por- 
 cupine was an inhabitant of this country. * There were also several 
 species of the crab kind. 
 
 March 31. — At seven o'clock in the morning we left the harbour of 
 Port Cavaliere, and at ten anchored in that of Rhodes. After dinner we 
 went with a letter from M. de Choiseul to the French consul ; as he 
 was absent, his dragoman attended us in a walk through the town. 
 The streets appeared almost deserted and forlorn ; the principal one, 
 called the Knights' Street, offered a melancholy view of the remains 
 of those houses defended with so much bravery by their valorous 
 tenants. The arms of several of these knights are observable on 
 the walls ; and the ruins of the grand master's palace are covered 
 with the golden Henbane. Leaving the town, we walked along the 
 beach on the south-west side, and among the rocks, which were 
 formed of a congeries of quartz pebbles cemented with ferruginous 
 sand, we observed impressions of Serpulae not uncommon. 
 
 April 1. — At five in the afternoon we raised our anchor. We saw 
 under the shelter of the shore of Rhodes an immense number of 
 Pelicans ; this was probably a stage of repose in their way from 
 Egypt, where Hasselquist informs us they winter. 
 
 April 3. — Early in the morningwe had a very distant view of Cyprus. 
 Our sailors caught a small species of lark, the Alauda spinoletta of 
 L., which probably lighted upon our vessel in its passage. We were 
 becalmed in sight of Cyprus the whole of the next day. We shot 
 the Charadrius spinosus flying near our ship ; this singular bird 
 Linnaeus makes mention of, as an inhabitant of Egypt ; Wheler saw 
 it in Greece. We caught also two species of Motacilla, the sylvia 
 and trochilus of Linnaeus. 
 
 • The Porcupine is found in Syria, near Aleppo. Ruisell's Aleppo, ii. 159.
 
 14 CYPRUS. 
 
 Aprils. — We anchored in the bay of Larnaka in Cyprus; Ihe 
 consul being absent, we engaged lodgings at the house of Sr. Natali. 
 an Italian, pleasantly situated on the beach at the Salines. 
 
 April 9. — I walked out to botanise, along the eastern coast, and 
 returned by Livadia. The crops of corn had been much hurt by 
 hail and a severe winter ; the orange groves or gardens were quite 
 destroyed. 
 
 April 10, 11. — I staid at home that my painter might have time to 
 design the plants collected in my walk to Livadia, and several birds 
 that were shot by a Chasseur whom we had employed as a guide. 
 Our situation at the Salines was one of the most favourable in the 
 island for the botanist and ornithologist. Several little pools invited 
 a number of Grallae to its neighbourhood. Near Larnaka was one of 
 considerable extent, and the salt lake was scarcely a mile distant. 
 Cyprus, situated between Asia and Africa, partakes of the production 
 of both ; sometimes we noticed the birds and plants of Syria and 
 Caramania ; sometimes those of Egypt. Many of the Grallse we saw 
 were probably birds of passage. 
 
 April 12. — We made an excursion to the mountain of the Holy 
 Cross. We passed by the aqueduct of Larnaka, and after four hours 
 ride over an uneven plain enlivened with varieties of the Ranunculus 
 Asiaticus, now in flower, we dined under a carob tree. Several little 
 rivulets crossed the road, skirted with the Oleander. These were 
 frequented by the beautiful Merops apiaster, one of which we shot. 
 Numerous Jack-daws burrowed in the holes of the free-stone rock near 
 the rivulet ; and the Roller, which after short flights pitched fre- 
 quently before us, rivalled the Merops in the splendour of its colours. 
 After dinner we lost our way in the mountains covered with the 
 Pinus pinea ; we arrived late at a hamlet belonging to the convent ; 
 and about an hour distant from it. The ascent was steep and 
 difllcult ; and the sun set soon after our arrival. Disappointed 
 at finding the convent quite deserted, and no habitation being near, 
 we resolved upon attempting an entrance by force. The different 
 instruments we had brought with us for digging were employed ;
 
 MOUNTAIN OF THE HOLY CROSS. I5 
 
 but without success. At length a Caloyer arrived with the key, and 
 having opened the door of the church, we discovered some straw 
 mattresses ; these were drawn before the ahar, and we lay down 
 to repose. 
 
 The mountain, a bluish grey argillaceous rock thinly covered with 
 earth, furnished but a few plants ; a species of Astragalus, which I 
 do not find mentioned by Linnseus, called by the Greeks uy^ioxuT^c^, 
 grew in great abundance. I saw the Valeriana tuberosa, which is 
 certainly the Alountain-nardus of Dioscorides, on the summit, with 
 the Ziziphora capitata, and a species of Cucubalus and Thymus, 
 neither of which I find described. On the walls of the convent I 
 observed the golden Henbane growing plentifully. 
 
 April 13. — At eight we left the convent; the Pinus pinea was 
 less frequent as we advanced in our descent. I observed a new 
 species of Gladiolus, G. montanus, and Thymus tragoriganum, 
 frequent. Arrived at the bottom, we stopped at a village to refresh 
 ourselves ; we then passed through a more level country covered 
 with different species of Cistus, the Onosma Orientalis, and Lithos- 
 permum tenuitlorum. I observed among the scarcer plants the 
 Brassica vesicaria and the Salvia ceratophylloides. Swarms of 
 locusts in their larva state often blackened the road with their 
 numbers, and threatened destruction to the crops of corn now 
 almost ripe. Near the aqueduct we observed several hawks hunting 
 in troops ; Falco tinnunculus was the most frequent species in the 
 island, called by the Greeks Kvr^og. We shot two other species ; 
 one with a blue tail, named Mavromati, and another, something like 
 a buzzard, called (pxKxon. 
 
 April 17. — We set off at eight in the morning for Famagusta ; 
 after riding four hours through a rising plain we reached Armidia, 
 a village pleasantly situated about half a mile from the sea. Near 
 the road side I observed the Scabiosa prolifera, and a species of 
 Arum, unnoticed by Linnaeus, called by the Greeks uyaioycoXoKua-iu, and 
 a rare species of Linum with a red flower, the Linum viscosum of 
 Linnaeus. The low hills round Armidia were covered with the Cistus
 
 16 
 
 CYPRUS. 
 
 incanus now in flower. On the beach I gathered the Scorzoneni 
 Tino-itana and a new species of Geranium. We shot also a bird of 
 the Gralla kind, the Haeniatopus Ostralegus of L. After a ride of 
 four hours over an extensive plain, we reached at sunset a small 
 convent in the outskirts of Famagusta. 
 
 April 18. — Early in the morning we walked to Famagusta, a 
 melancholy place now almost depopulated : in the time of the 
 Venetians the fairest city in the island ; and renowned for the brave 
 defence they made in it against the infidels. The lines of the forti- 
 fication which are very considerable are still sufficient to show the 
 extent and former strength of this place : they are now suffered by 
 the Turks to moulder away in ruins. Some cannon, with the arms 
 of Venice, were lying dismounted on the ramparts ; the Lieutenant 
 of the fortress pointed- to them with an air of triumph. In the 
 enceinte grew amono- the rubbish the Aloe vera, the Iris Ger- 
 manica, and Florentina in great abundance. Leaving the fortress 
 we passed through the streets now deserted, a melancholy picture 
 of Turkish desolation ; the gateway by which we returned to the 
 convent was paved with cannon balls. At noon after a ride of five 
 hours we arrived at Upsera. About a mile from Famagusta, we 
 observed some small lakes to our right and left : these were fre- 
 quented by different species of Grallse : we had shot the Ardea 
 alba, which flew over the convent, in the morning. The desolation 
 we had observed at Famagusta extended itself along the country we 
 now traversed. We passed by the mouldering ruins of several 
 Greek villages, and slept at a Greek cottage at Upsera. This like 
 other villages we had passed seemed by the desertion of its inha- 
 bitants to be hastening to ruin : it was pleasantly situated on the 
 side of a hill : a fertile vale stretched beneath it, bounded by the 
 approaching mountains of Antiphoniti. 
 
 April 19. — At eight in the morning we left Upsera, and passing 
 through the vale below, gradually ascended into the mountain of 
 Antiphoniti. At noon we arrived at the convent, most romantically 
 situated, having a view of the sea and a distant sight of the high
 
 LIGNUM RHODIUM. JY 
 
 land of Caramania. I was come here on the authority of Pococke 
 to see the Lignum Rhodium ; this the Greeks called Xylon EfFendi. 
 The Hegoumenos of the convent, a very old man, offered himself as 
 my conductor, and leading me a few paces below the convent into a 
 garden now covered with rubbish, pointed out a tree which on ex- 
 amination I found to be the Liquidambar Styraciflua. The trunk of 
 it was much hacked, and different bits had been carried off by the 
 curious and superstitious, as an ornament to their cabinets and 
 churches. This was probably the same tree that Pococke had * seen. 
 To ascertain the Lignum Rhodium has been much wished by the 
 naturalists. An American tree growing in the swamps of Virginia 
 seems to have little claim to be considered as that which should pro- 
 duce it. The name of Xylon EfFendi and the tradition of the con- 
 vent testify the reputation in which this tree had long been held in 
 the island ; it was probably at first introduced by the Venetians 
 during their possession of it. I could not discover, either from 
 observation or enquiry, that it was to be found in any other part of 
 Cyprus ; nor do I recollect that the Styrax liquidambar has been 
 mentioned by any botanist as an oriental tree. AVliether the 
 Lignum Riiodium of the shops is the wood of this tree, or not, I 
 am doubtful ; the Aspalathus primus of Dioscorides I think is 
 certainly the Lignum Rhodium of the ancients ; he describes it as a 
 thorny shrub, probably a species of Spartium, which the Cypriotes 
 still call Aspalathi ; his Aspalathus secundus, which also grows in the 
 island, is certainly the Spartium spinosum. The Pinus pinea, the 
 Cypress, the Andrachne are the principal trees that grow in this 
 mountainous track. In the crevices of the rocks I found a few 
 curious plants, Scutellaria peregrina. Ononis Ornithopodioides, 
 Polygala j\Ionsp. ; and a species of Valeriana f with an undivided 
 leaf, which seems distinct from Val. Calcitrapa. In the environs of 
 
 * See a paper in the Linnsean Transactions, (read Feb. 1815,) respecting the Lignum 
 Rhodium of Pococke, by the President, 
 f Valeriana orbiculata of Flora G. F. 31. 
 
 VOL. II. D
 
 jg CYPRUS. 
 
 the cloister we shot two species of Loxia ; one which I haN e called 
 L. Varia ; the other L. Cinerea. 
 
 April 20. — At eleven we left the convent of Antiphoniti and 
 descended the mountain to the sea-coast. In our journey I observed 
 the Papaver somniferum with a small blue flower growing in great 
 abundance : the plant which we find sometimes in waste ground and 
 in corn-fields in England has probably escaped there from the 
 garden. We now coasted along the shore, rocky, and much in- 
 dented. I here observed several curious plants, Arenaria Cerignensis, 
 Scabiosa Cerignensis, Cheiranthus littoreus, Teucrium Creticum. 
 
 Leaving the shore, we entered into a more difficult tract of 
 country called Bel Paese ; a ridge of mountains running from north 
 to south, terminated some rising hills, which, sloping towards the 
 sea, were richly cultivated with corn. Near Cerignes, where we 
 arrived rather late in the evening, I discovered a beautiful species of 
 Salvia, S. Cerignensis. 
 
 April 21. — Having employed the morning in drawing, and put- 
 ting our plants in paper ; we rode out after dinner to the monastery 
 of Lapasis, a fine remain of an old Gothic structure. In the court 
 below was a sarcophagus ; but of bad workmanship. We were 
 told, that on the summit of the mountains to the left of Lapasis 
 were the ruins of an ancient temple : our guides who had excited 
 our curiosity refused to satisfy it, by risking their mules on the 
 steep road which led to them. Captain E. and myself attempted on 
 foot to reach the summit of this distant mountain. The sun shone 
 with uncommon force ; nor did the least breeze mitigate the fervour 
 of its rays. After a very hot and fruitless walk, we came back, 
 finding the summit too distant to reach it, and return before night. 
 We joined our companions at the monastery of Lapasis, situated in 
 a beautiful recess, surrounded by corn-fields and vineyards, and 
 shaded by trees, whose foliage is kept green by several purling 
 rills, that watered the environs of this romantic spot. I collected a 
 few plants in this excursion : the Iledysarum saxatile grew on the
 
 NICOSIA. ig 
 
 mountain ; and the Styrax officinale was frequent in the hedges 
 near the monastery. 
 
 April 22. — We left Cerignes at nine, a paltry town with a port, 
 which carries on a small commerce with Caramania : we passed the 
 mountains of Bel Paese by a narrow defile ; on the sides of which 
 grew the Moluccella fruticosa ; descending, we entered the plains of 
 Messaria ; and about two arrived at Nicosia. On the mountains we 
 observed several large bii-ds which our guides told us were Eagles, 
 'Asrdi ; I was not so fortunate as to procure one of them during my 
 stay in the island ; but from their flight I should suppose them to 
 be Vultures ; near Nicosia, I observed the Salvia Argentea. In the 
 evening, we visited a small convent of Spanish friars, under the 
 protection of France and Spain ; and slept at the house of the 
 Danish dragoman, for whom we had brought a letter. 
 
 April 23. — The governor of the island being informed of my 
 arrival, sent a message, that he wished to see me ; he was a vener- 
 able old Turk, with no other complaint than that of age, and its 
 companion, debility and loss of appetite. He received me with 
 great politeness : our ambassador. Sir R. Ainslie, had procured me 
 letters lor him. Having felt his pulse, and prescribed for his com- 
 plaint, he offered us his firman j and ordered his dragoman to 
 prepare a magnificent dinner. A Gazelle, a species of Capra 
 called by the Greeks, Ay^eivo * was brought to me for my painter to 
 take a drawing of. I was assured it was an inhabitant of Mount 
 Troas ; though this animal had been sent to the Governor as a 
 present from the coast of Syria. There was nothing in the palace 
 which indicated the magnificence and dignity of the Governor of so 
 large and rich an island ; but unfortunately for Cyprus, it is the 
 appanage of the Grand Vizier ; who obliges the Governor by mea- 
 sures the most oppressive to remit an annual revenue much ex- 
 ceeding the force and strength of its inhabitants under the present 
 
 * Probably 'Aygi/xt. kyqly-ia, Xapia, xai Xotyoic. Ano.de N. Th. ill Dll C. V. A. — E. 
 
 D 2
 
 20 
 
 CYPRUS. 
 
 distressing circumstances. * The poor Greeks pay a charatch of 
 forty or fifty piastres ; and annual emigrations of large numbers are 
 the consequence of this oppressive despotism. The Greeks have at 
 first, perhaps, from necessity been induced to practise some low 
 tricks of lying and knavery ; and from frequent repetition, these 
 may at length have become habitual among many of them. One of 
 our suides had secretly made an agreement with a Turk, that two 
 of our horses should carry his corn to Larnaka ; tempted to this 
 dishonest proceeding with the hopes of gaining a few paras. Had I 
 mentioned the circumstance to the Governor, the poor fellow would 
 have lost his head ; I hinted it only to the dragoman, who imme- 
 diately sent an officer to inform him, he should answer for his 
 conduct in the most exemplary manner, in case of any further com- 
 plaint from us. The fellow frightened became, from the most ob- 
 stinate, the most docile creature in the world on our journey to 
 Mount Troas. 
 
 Onr dinner was served after the Turkish fashion ; a great variety of 
 dishes well dressed, gave us a favourable idea of the Turkish 
 cookery, and the Governor's hospitality. I had counted thirty-six, 
 when the dragoman made us an apology for the badness of the 
 dinner ; and that he had not assistance enough to prepare it. The 
 Governor expressed an anxious wish that I should see the medicine 
 prepared, which I had prescribed for him, expressing a great want 
 of confidence in his physician at Larnaka. Upon my making my 
 promise to him, and wishing that it might relieve him, all the 
 persons in waiting exclaimed, Ish Allah, f It was late when we left 
 
 * A curious and forcible contrast presents itself to us, when we read the accounts of 
 the modern poverty and wretchedness of Cyprus, and the following passage of Ammianus 
 Marcellinus : — " Tanta tamque multiplici fertilitate abundat rerum omnium eadem Cyprus, 
 ut nullius externi indigens adminiculi viribus a fundamento ipso carinae ad supremos 
 usque carbasos a;dificet onerariam navem, omnibusque armaraentis instructam mari 
 committat." — E. 
 
 f Properly, In Sha Allah, " If God will." 'Eav 6 Kugto; OsArfo-)). James, iv. 15. 
 Breviter, Isli Allali. — From Mr. Usko.
 
 LIMESOL. 21 
 
 Nicosia, and after eight hours we arrived at our lodgings at the 
 Salines. 
 
 April 27. — We set out on an excursion to Mount Troas. Leav- 
 ing the Salines of Larnaka, we passed through a vale in which were 
 some ruins at a place called Cetti ; being alarmed at the appearance 
 of a thunder storm, we stopped at a small village, Magado, to dine, 
 four hours from Larnaka. In our way to Mouni, I observed the 
 Liiium Nodiflorum, and shot a beautiful species of Fringilla with a 
 yellow breast, and a black head, called by the Greeks l,Kx^9uXig. 
 this bird sings delightfullv, rivalling the Nightingale in its note ; 
 we observed it frequently in the evening perched on the top of some 
 bush or tree. 
 
 April 28, — We left INIouni eleven hours from Larnaka, and after 
 four hours' ride arrived at Limesol. On the road we passed the 
 ruins of the ancient Amathus ; I observed the Scabiosa Syriaca 
 growing among the corn, and on the sea-sand a species of Anchusa* 
 Limesol is an inconsiderable town, frequented only on account of 
 its corn, and the neighbourhood to the vineyards of La Comman- 
 deria. The bay is deeper than that of Larnaka, and ships approach 
 nearer the shore to take in their lading. Our vice-consul, a Greek, 
 treated us handsomely ; and uncommon for a Greek, lodged us in 
 his house without making a bill. At Nicosia, the Danish dragoman 
 brought in a most shameful charge for a supper, to which he him- 
 self had invited us. We here found our companion Mr. Hawkins, 
 who had been to Soulea, and the Panagia of Cicci. 
 
 April 29. — At seven we left Limesol ; having travelled two hours 
 in a plain, we passed a little rivulet ; the country was covered with 
 Cistus and jNIastic ; among these we heard the frequent call of the 
 Francoline. Having crossed the rivulet, we entered into a wild 
 mountainous country, and stopped to dine at a Turkish fountain, 
 five hours from Limesol. After dinner, we soon entered into a more 
 cultivated tlistrict : the sides of the hills were planted with vine- 
 yards ; little brooks watered the vales below, which were sown with 
 corn, yet green. The mountains of Troados covered with the Pinus
 
 22 
 
 CYPRUS. 
 
 pinea stretched themselves out, and terminated the vale. I observed 
 the Styrax tree frequent in the hedges ; and the Anagyris foetida 
 in the outskirts of the villages. At sun-set we arrived at the 
 convent of the Holy Cross : this is regarded as the second mon- 
 astery in the island, and was probably more flourishing under the 
 pious care of Maria Theresa. It is situated in a Greek village, where 
 we observed an appearance of greater affluence than in most of 
 those we had yet seen. Mountains are indeed generally the last 
 retreats of liberty. 
 
 April 30. — At seven we set off from the convent of the Holy- 
 Cross for Troados, Our road led us through a steep tract of country, 
 well wooded. The Pinus pinea, the Quercus Ilex, and Arbutus An- 
 drachne covered the higher part of the mountain ; in the vales below 
 grew the plane, the Cretan maple, the black poplar, the white willow, 
 and the alder. After two hours of very difficult road, we arrived at the 
 convent of Troados ; a Greek Papas, whom we had taken as a guide 
 to conduct us to the snow on the summit of the mountain, brought 
 us to this miserable cloister. As we were now told it was impossible 
 to reach the snow, and return, we passed our day with much disap- 
 pointment at the convent. I picked up but few plants : Smyrnium 
 perfoliatum, Imperatoria Ostruthium, Alyssum campestre, Cheiran- 
 thus Cyprius ; and among the rocks. Euphorbia Myrsinites, and Tur- 
 ritis glabra. We discovered the jay by hoarse screams, hopping 
 among the branches of the Pinus pinea ; and we shot the Parus ater, 
 picking the buds of the fruit-trees below the convent ; and the Mus- 
 cicapa atricapilla busily employed in catching the flies. 
 
 May 1. — Having taken a goat-herd for our guide, at seven we 
 began our ascent from the convent. After two hours' climbing with 
 our mules over steep and dangerous precipices, we arrived at the 
 summit, where we found a small quantity of snow lying on the north- 
 east side : the pine-tree and the cypress grew on the heights with the 
 Cretan Berbery. The mountain, composed of griinstein, with large 
 pieces of hornblend, and but slightly covered with earth, disappointed 
 my botanical expectations. A species of Fumaria, an Arabis, A. pur-
 
 SOULEA. 
 
 23 
 
 purea, with the Crocus vernus growing near the snow, were almost 
 all the plants I observed on the mountain. We now descended 
 rapidly over rocks of serpentine veined with amianth, and in three 
 hours arrived at the bottom. The trunks of the old pine-trees were 
 covered with the Lichen purpuraceus. 
 
 We now entered the vale of Soulea, the most beautiful we had yet 
 seen in the island ; well watered and richly cultivated. Green mea- 
 dows contrasted with the corn now ripe, hamlets shaded with mul- 
 berry-trees, and healthy peasantry busily employed with their harvest, 
 and the care of their silk-worms, enlivened the scenery. Having tra- 
 velled two hours in this delightful vale, I stopped at a Greek village. 
 My guide conducted me to the house of the Papas ; a bed was pre- 
 pared for me in the vacant part of a chamber, where silk-worms were 
 kept. In a little morass, in passing through the vale, I had picked 
 up the Lobelia setacea, and Pinguicula crystallina. My draughts- 
 man stopping to sketch these plants was the cause of my losing my 
 companion, who slept at a neighbouring monastery. 
 
 JVIay 2. — We left the village at six ; the country now became more 
 barren ; the hills were covered with the Cistus Creticus, from which 
 they collect the Ladanum * : some land was sown with corn j but this 
 was almost devoured by the locusts, which had now their wings, and 
 flew in swarms destroying every green plant. No vegetable escaped 
 their ravages, except some prickly cartilaginous plants of the thistle 
 tribe. After live hours we arrived at Peristeroani, where I found my 
 companions waiting for me. I had collected some grasses in my road ; 
 Poa aurea, Cynosurus durus, and Avena Cypria. Leaving Periste- 
 roani, we travelled over a plain for five hours, and at sun-set arrived 
 at the convent of the Archangel, at a small distance from Nicosia. 
 
 * " Ladanum is extracted from a species of rock-rose, and gathered in Greece; in the 
 islands of the Arciiipclago, in Crete and Cyprus. Among otlicr preservatives from the 
 plague, Ladanum is useii ; an aromatic substance, which heat softens and renders more 
 odoriferous : they smell to it from time to time, and especially when they fear any dan- 
 gerous emanations." Olivier. Cistus Ladan. is the KiVrou ei2oc A^?a'» of Diosc. See 
 Sprengel, His. R. H. i. 177. — E.
 
 24 DEPARTURE FROM CYPRUS. 
 
 Near the convent I observed the coriander and the garden-cress grow- 
 ing wild among the corn. 
 
 jVlaj 3. — At seven we left the convent of the Archangel, and after 
 a ride of eight hours through an undulated plain arrived at our lodg- 
 ings at the Salines ; near Agios Georgios we observed immense beds 
 of petrified oysters *, Pectines, and Balani. Our chasseur shot a very 
 rare bird of the Tetrao kind, T. Alchata, called by the Greeks 
 Trap JaXoV. f This is a bird of passage, visiting the island in the spring 
 and retiring in the autumn. We shot also on this plain the stone 
 curlew, Charadrius Oedicnemus. 
 
 CHAP. IL 
 
 Sail for Bhodes ; anchor near Ba/o .- the Diamond Hills.— Use of the Leaves of Cisltts 
 Monspcliensis. — Departure from Cyprus ; land on the Coast of Asia Minor. — Testudo 
 Grceca, Testudo Lidoria, Ra7ia Escidenta. — Arrival at Rhodes. — The Island of Lero ; 
 active Labours of the Peasantry. — Patmos ; Dress and Appearance of the Women; 
 Birds. — Island of Stenosa ; Plants. — Beautiful Species of Scarus caught off the Island. 
 — The Lunar ia of Tmirnefort. — Argentiera ; Lead, Copper, and Iron Ores. — Sailfo?- 
 Athens ; singidar Appearance of an Eclipse of the Sun. 
 
 May 8. — At six in the evening, embarked on board the Providence, 
 a small vessel, for Rhodes. There were upwards of twenty passen- 
 gers, Turks and Greeks, from different parts of the Levant ; a Latin 
 bishop, from the environs of Mount Libanus, after being six years 
 patriarch of the jNIaronites, had been dethroned by the cabals of his 
 brethren, and was now on board, with a chaplain and interpreter, on 
 
 * " A quelqucs niilles de Nicosie," says Le Brun, " ii y a une petite montagnc, qui 
 n'est que d'huitres petrifies." See his description of them, vol. iii. p. 3/6. — E. 
 
 f Found also in Syria, and called by the natives of Aleppo, Kata. Sec a plate and 
 description of this bird in Russell's Aleppo, ii. 194. — E.
 
 BAFO. 
 
 25 
 
 the way to Rome, hoping by the interference of the Pope to be re- 
 instated in the patriarchate. 
 
 May 11. — We anchored about eight in the morning, about five 
 miles to the east of Bafo. The town now presents a melancholy 
 ruin ; few of the houses being inhabited. In walking through it, we 
 entered the inclosure of a modern Greek church, where we discovered 
 three pillars of the most beautiful Egyptian granite : at four feet from 
 the groimd, they measured ten feet four inches in circumference ; and 
 from the present surface, which evidently had been much raised, 
 fifteen feet in height. At the distance of about forty yards were two 
 smaller pillars ; one of them was fluted. This was probably the site 
 of an ancient temple of Venus : near it stood the ruins of a small 
 Gothic chapel, probably Venetian. From Bafo we passed over some 
 fields to a beautiful village called Iftinia, where the Governor of the 
 district resided. We produced our firman ; and his dragoman, ful^, 
 of promises, offered his services. The bishop, who had been informed 
 of my arrival, wished to consult me. Like the Governor, I found 
 him with no other complaint than that of old age and a weakened vis 
 vitae. We were offered pipes, and entertained with coffee, liqueurs, 
 and perfumes. From Iftinia we walked to what our guide called the 
 Diamond Hill : these diamonds we found to be nothino- but common 
 quartz crystal. Hence we descended to the beach, to some ruins 
 under ground. We found there several buildings ; and from the 
 architecture we were led to suppose them catacombs, or repositories 
 for the dead. They occupied a very considerable tract of ground ; 
 and offer a curious and interesting field of research to the antiquary. 
 On removing some stones, I discovered two species of lizards ; the 
 Lacerta Chalcides, and I^acerta Turcica : on the sand I observed the 
 Sea Eryngo, the Sea Samphire, and the Prickly Cichorium : the 
 Silene fruticosa, the Cyclamen Cyprium, and the Ruta graveolens 
 grew on the rocks : on the road from Bafo to Iftinia, and upon rub- 
 bish ground on the outskirts of the town, the Aloe vera, the Semper- 
 vivum arboreum, and the Physalis somnifera: the Galium Cyprium 
 on the diamond rocks : the Crucianella ^gyptiaca, the Teucrium 
 
 VOL. II. E
 
 26 
 
 CYPRUS. 
 
 pseudo-chaniedrjs, and the Teucrium pseudo-polium on the plain 
 below. It was late when I returned to the ship, where I found a 
 Turk, to whom I had offered a suitable reward, waiting for me, with 
 a specimen of the formidable Kou(pi. 
 
 May 12. — We went on shore, and after waiting three hours at 
 Iftinia for horses, set off at eleven on an excursion to Fontana 
 Amorosa. Riding three hours through a fine cultivated corn country 
 we crossed a rivulet, and dined under an olive tree ; among the corn 
 I had observed the Bupleurum semicompositum and Ruta linifolia. 
 After dinner our road led us over a rough steep- mountain whose 
 sides were cultivated with corn ; we then traversed a stony plain, and 
 in three hours' time arrived at a large Greek village. We now 
 descended towards the beach, having a view of the distant coast of 
 Caramania. The Cistus Monspeliensis was frequent on different parts 
 of the road: the leaves of this species are used by the Cypriots as a 
 substitute for the Mulberry leaf: we met frequently with peasants 
 convevinn- home horse loads of this plant for their silk worms. 
 After riding for some time in the dark, we arrived at Poli ; the Aga 
 of the village, a venerable man, received us with much politeness, 
 and having spread before us a frugal repast of Yaourt and rice milk, 
 he left us and retired to his Harem. 
 
 May 13. — At six we set out for Fontana Amorosa, which our 
 miides informed us was little more than an hour distant from Poli. 
 We descended tov/ards the coast ; and passing near the shore by a 
 narrow and difficult road, and having turned a considerable moun- 
 tain, arrived in four hours at a small spring : this we were informed 
 was the famous Fontana Amorosa, wliich had so greatly excited our 
 curiosity. Among the stones of a ruined village we observed the 
 Lacerta Stellio, the same which Tournefort had found among the 
 ruins of Delos ; and on the sides of the mountain I gathered the 
 Centaurea Behen, and the Cynara acaulis, and the Thapsia foeni- 
 culifolia ; and under the shade of some trees hanging over a rivulet 
 the Osmunda Cypria. Our guides, who had contrived to mislead us, 
 after eight hours brought us back to Poli ; they no^ refused to set
 
 CARAMANIAN COAST. 
 
 27 
 
 forward for Bafo, alleging, their horses were tired. The Aga of 
 Poli was absent when we came back : and a black slave supposing 
 us hungry brought a bundle of bean stalks, and threw them down 
 before us, saying, there was something to eat. As we had promised 
 our captain to return, we continued our journey with our guides. 
 The little owl, Strix Passerina, hooted mournfully among the rocks ; 
 and at sun-set, we were left in an unknown and dangerous country. 
 We arrived at a Greek village about an hour from Poli in the dusk 
 of the evening ; and the Papas having furnished us with a guide, 
 we ti-avelled all night, and reached the shore of Bafo at day- 
 break. 
 
 May 14. — We embarked at six in the morning: on the 21st 
 we passed Cape Chelidoni, and immediately after, were becalmed 
 at a small distance off the bay of Myra ; about twelve, we came to 
 anchor in the bay ; and went on shore in a Greek boat. The sides 
 of the mountain skirted a sandy vale ; part of which %vas covered 
 with a river now almost stagnant : here I collected several plants I 
 had not noticed in Cyprus. We killed a beautiful species of Coluber, 
 which I have called Coluber Caramaniensis : I observed a great 
 number of rock pigeons, Columba Oenas rupestris. In the evening we 
 raised the anchor and set sail. 
 
 May 22. — We sprung our bowsprit and were obliged to put 
 before the wind ; at twelve we dropped our anchor in the bay of 
 Finica. 
 
 May 23. — I went on shore to botanise. An aqueduct to the left 
 continued for five miles into the interior of the country. We saw 
 several scattered hamlets, whose inhabitants, living a wandering 
 pastoral life, had retired into the mountains to milk their goats, and 
 make their cheese. A rich fertile vale was watered by the * Limyrus. 
 The Pomegranate, glowing with its scarlet colours, ornamented the 
 thicket ; while the Vitis Labrusca, stretching over the rivulet, per- 
 
 * For the situation of Myra, and the Limyrus, see Beaufort's Caramania. — E. 
 
 E 2
 
 28 CARAMANIAN COAST. 
 
 fumed the air with the most fragrant odours. Oranges and lemons 
 wrew in wild luxuriance : crowded around the house ot" the untutored 
 peasant ; and in vain solicited his art to prune and improve them. 
 Fatigued with our walk we sought a retreat under a spreading plane ; 
 the Limyrus glided softly at our feet ; a singular grotesque view of 
 a Caramanian cottage heightened the scenery. I returned highly 
 satisfied with my walk, and richly laden with curious plants. We 
 met the Testudo Grseca frequently on the road side, and the Testudo 
 Lutaria with the Rana Esculenta in the little rivulet which watered 
 the plain : we heard the Potamida frequently, flying on the banks of 
 the Limyrus ; but it artfully concealed itself from our view. It was 
 late in the evening before we returned to our vessel. 
 
 May 28. — We dropped anchor in the port of Rhodes at five in 
 the morning, and went on shore to visit the French consul ; in the 
 afternoon I walked out to botanise ; among the rocks to the west of 
 the town we observed a Pelican. Though the season for botanising 
 was too far advanced for the lower grounds, I yet picked up several 
 curious plants, among some corn not yet reaped, which skirted 
 some hills about three miles distant from the town ; in the valleys 
 beneath, and among the briars on the margin of the fields. The 
 port of Rhodes is much frequented ; it supplies however a few 
 articles only of commerce ; among these are oranges and lemons ; 
 the best I recollect to have seen. The limes were abundant ; and 
 we bought a basket full of them, paying only a para for thirty. 
 
 May 29. — The morning was employed in embarking our baggage 
 on board of the boat which we had engaged to carry us to Canea : 
 our intention was to have sailed early, but we were detained partly 
 in waiting for the arrival of the Sou Basha or officer of the customs, 
 and partly for the leave of the Aga, who was sleeping at his 
 villa some distance from the town. We sailed at nine o'clock ; 
 the wind being westerly we tacked over towards the coast of Asia, 
 and working along the shore dropped anchor at Port Cavaliere at 
 three in the afternoon. This place that six weeks since appeared a 
 beautiful garden enamelled with some of the most curious plants of
 
 PATMOS. 
 
 29 
 
 the East now presented a dry surface, and furnished me only with 
 the opportunity of collecting some seeds from the parched skeletons 
 of those plants which I had formerly collected in flower. On my 
 return from fishing, one of our Greek sailors met me on the beach 
 with some Scari, which he had caught among the rocks. Our 
 classical curiosity was much raised to taste a dish whicli held so 
 distinguished a place with the ancient Greek and Roman epicures * : 
 we found the Scarus better flavoured than most of the species of 
 Labrus, though not superior to the huge Rhombus, or the spotted 
 Murasna. 
 
 May 30. — Rowed out of Port Cavaliere at day-break, the wind 
 still contrary in the channel of Rhodes. During the afternoon, we 
 stood along the western coast of the island of Symi, and at sun-set 
 anchored in a small creek on the Asiatic shore. 
 
 May 31. — We doubled Cape Crio at nine, and were soon after 
 becalmed ; at mid-day we passed by the island of Cos, directing our 
 course to Lero ; in the port of which we anchored in the evening. 
 
 June 1. — I walked out at day-break to botanise; the corn-fields 
 and the crevices of the hills furnished me with some curious plants. 
 The port of I^ero is singularly beautiful, walled in with picturesque 
 rocks; on these stand the mouldering ruins. of some old fortifications, 
 above which is placed the town. A peasantry lively and active, now 
 busied with their harvest, furnished a pleasing contrast to the wild 
 and desolate scenery we had lately left on the Asiatic shore. At 
 eight, quitting Lero with a fair wind, after four hours' sail we arrived 
 at Patmos. 
 
 We walked out to examine the island j" : leaving the road which 
 led from the port to the town, we turned to the right to a salt pool, 
 where we shot the Scolopax Glottis, called here Soueli. In climbing 
 
 * Non me Lucrina juvcrint conchylin, 
 
 Magisve Rhombus aut Scari. — Hon. — E. 
 f An account of some recent discoveries made in Patmos by Mr. Whittingtou is 
 given in an extract from his journal, printed at the end of this division of Dr. Sib- 
 thorp's tour.
 
 30 ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 the rocks above the saU pool we killed two species of serpent ; one 
 having a back waved with black on a greyish ground, and a flattened 
 head, appeared to have all the marks of a species highly venomous. 
 The islanders called it ^tSi, corrupted from o<ptg ; another, which 
 from its long slender form, I judged to be perfectly innocent, they 
 called cra£TT«, or arrow, from the manner in which it shoots or darts 
 itself; we were told of a third species TrofSoy.oXoyo; ; this was repre- 
 sented to us as of enormous size ; we were not however able to find 
 it. From these rocks we passed over to the monastery of the 
 Apocalypse, where we were shown a dark church with a chancel or 
 cell excavated in the rock, crowned by the monastery of St. John. 
 Having waited on the Hegoumenos, and admired the extensive view 
 which we commanded from its height, we descended to the house of 
 an Italian physician, an itinerant empiric ; he showed us some 
 ancient medals and precious stones. In walking through the town, 
 we were much struck with the beauty of the women. A form 
 sufficiently elegant, and a black sparkling eye heightened the charms 
 of a fair complexion ; and we seemed to trace in these Grecian 
 beauties the charms which her poets in the better days of Greece 
 have described with so much warmth. Tournefort accuses these 
 nvmphs of want of address in putting on their fard ; at present 
 however they have greatly improved their art ; and the few who we 
 observed to be painted were much more skilful than the Parisian 
 matrons in laying on their pigments. Patmos, like most of the Greek 
 islands at this season of the year, presented a brown sun-burnt 
 surface, forbidding the botanist to hope for a plentiful harvest. 
 Notwithstandino; its arid state I still discovered a few scarce 
 plants. 
 
 .June 2. — Tempestuous weather, with a strong blustering north 
 wind, detained us in the port of Patmos. We walked out after 
 dinner ; and near the beach obsei'ved the Pelecanus Onocrotalus ; we 
 shot a species of Sterna, S. Hirundo. The island furnishes a very 
 inconsiderable number of land birds ; some of the swallow tribe and 
 the wheat-ear were almost the only small birds we saw in the island j
 
 ARCHIPELAGO. 32 
 
 the Partridge, the rock Pigeon, the hooded Crow, and the little Owl, 
 were the only larger land birds. 
 
 June 3. — We walked to the convent of St. John to visit a learned 
 monk whose name was Gregorio Zeno : he understood the ancient 
 Greek, and had a large library for a man in his situation. Among 
 the botanical works he showed me an old copy of Paul of iEgina and 
 Alatthiolus's Commentary on Dioscorides. He funiished me with 
 the Greek names and superstitious uses of several of the plants of 
 the islands. 
 
 June 5. — We left Patmos, and arrived by the force of our oars at 
 Stenosa. I observed a sea bird flying near the surface of the water, 
 and seldom settling ; the sailors called it Mr,Ku). 
 
 June 6. — The island is very rocky, but furnished a variety of 
 curious plants : among these I observed the Achillea iEgyptiaca 
 described by Tournefort, one of the most frequent plants in the 
 island, now in flower. During my herborisation the Greeks had 
 caught a beautiful sort of Scarus, of a fine blood-red colour, and a 
 golden spot a little above the caudal fin ; its form was that of the 
 species which I have described taken on the shore of Cyprus ; but 
 the one was of an uniform dusky green ; the other glowed with a deep 
 red. j\Iy draughtsman has fortunately made a drawing of it, while 
 the colours were yet vivid. In sailing out of the harbour, I ob- 
 served the Brassica Graeca growing on a little islet in the mouth of 
 it. I landed to gather it, and picked up several curious plants which 
 grew near the same spot. 
 
 June 7. — We stood over for Naxia, where we put into a small 
 creek to look for water ; but not finding any we changed our course ; 
 we turned back to a bay where fortunately we discovered a well. 
 We here killed a serpent, whose eyes were singularly small, called by 
 the Greeks Tuphlites : this we were fold was a species highly 
 venomous ; and that the bite of it would prove fatal to a man in a few 
 hours. We killed also a small species of lizard, whose back was of a deep 
 green ; and I saw another, the Lacerta Aurea of Linnaeus. I picked 
 up some few plants, and collected several seeds : among the plants
 
 32 ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 were the following :— Lycium barbavum, Amygdalus communis 
 spinosa, Allium parviflorum, Sonchus Graecus, Cynara Gra?ca. 
 Silene Grteca. 
 
 jm^e 8. — As I anxiously wished to determine whether the I.unaria 
 of Tournefort was not a distinct species from the genus Cheiranthus, 
 where Linmrus has arranged it, I prevailed on our Carabokiri to put 
 back to Caloyero, where I had found it abundantly in seed the pre- 
 ceding year. We sailed from Naxia at day-break ; at eight we 
 arrived at Caloyero, laid down in the maps as Antichero : we 
 found the Ijunaria in great abundance, but unfortunately at present 
 in seed. The heights of the rocks, and the cavities formed by them, 
 gave me hopes of finding some late flowering plants on the eastern 
 side. I embarked on board of our boat, and was carried to that 
 part. The wind blew fresh from the island ; and we were nearly 
 overset in the attempt ; however, getting under the cover of a rock, 
 we with difficulty made good our landing. I spent two hours in 
 coasting along the island ; and examined it with the greatest 
 attention ; but though I found some thousand plants I could not 
 meet with a single specimen in flower. At eleven we left Antichero, 
 and in an hour made the island of Nio. It was our intention to 
 steer directly for Crete, but a considerable swell of the sea coming 
 on, obliged us to put into a harbour on the south extremity of 
 Nio. 
 
 June 9. — We sailed at one in the morning : a calm, with a great 
 swell coming on in the night, prevented us from making much 
 progress ; at eight we changed our course, and stood for Sikino, 
 where we landed about ten o'clock on the beach, near a chapel 
 dedicated to Saint John. The fatigue of mv walk in Calovero, and 
 my sleep disturbed during the night by the great swell of the sea, 
 with the extreme heat of the day, brought on a considerable degree 
 of fever. Before dinner I had collected from a peasant the names 
 of several plants growing round the chapel ; and it was my intention 
 with this untauo-ht botanist to have made an herborisation after 
 dinner, but my fever increasing prevented me. I ordered my bed
 
 ARGENTIERA. 
 
 33 
 
 to be brought on shore, and having laid it before the altar in the 
 chapel, reposed tolerably until midnight, when our Carabokjri 
 pressed our departure for Candia. 
 
 June 11. — We sailed over to Argentiera, where we anchored at 
 twelve : the next day, being much indisposed, I remained on shore 
 in my tent. My draughtsman walked out to collect some seeds with 
 Captain Emery, who returned with a few specimens of lead ore. 
 We met with some of copper and iron, with manganese and dendrites 
 beautifully formed from it. We discovered the two species of 
 Cimolian earth * mentioned by the ancients ; amethysts, and other 
 curious fossils. I gathered the seeds of several annual plants, and 
 found some few in flower ; though the season now flir advanced 
 prevented me from making a large collection. 
 
 ■June 14. — At seven o'clock we rowed out of Arsentiera to a 
 small island with a monastery upon it ; among the rocks I observed 
 the solitary sparrow, and on the higher part of the island, the Stone 
 Curlew, Charadrius oedicnemus, which seemed to make it its breed- 
 ing-place. The rock opposite to Monastery Island was covered with 
 the JVIedicago Arborea, and near the sea I picked up a new species 
 of Statice. At eleven o'clock we crossed over to the N. E. point of 
 Milo, where we observed great quantities of Cimolian earth. At 
 two in the afternoon, the wind coming more easterly, we put off for 
 the island of Candia. It soon sunk into a perfect calm, and we 
 rowed back to Argentiera. 
 
 June 15. — The wind continuing contrary, we changed our plan 
 of voyage ; and determined to proceed to Athens. In the evening 
 we were becalmed off Siphanto. An eclipse of the sun was singu- 
 
 * The following remark, relating to this earth, is taken from Brogniart, Mineralogie, i. 
 p. 519. : — " Les anciens, employoient cette Argile a degraisser les etoffcs ; les habitans 
 s'en scrvent encore a present jjour cet usage et elle Icnr ticnt lieu tie savoti pour laver le 
 linge. Mr. Hawkins en a rapporte de cette ile; il a constate qu'elie blanchissoit les 
 etoffes, aussi bien que la mcilleure terre a foulon. Mr. Klaproth a analyse les echantillons 
 que lui a reniis ce voyagcur; il y a trouve, silice 0.63; aluminc, 0.J3: oxide de fcr, 
 0.01; Eau, 0.12."— E. 
 
 VOL. II. F
 
 34 
 
 COAST OF ATTICA. 
 
 larly beaut itul : it seemed to expand itself; then sinking gradually 
 in the middle to push out from its sides two horns ; these rapidly 
 diminished, and appeared like two tapers burning out. We observed 
 it at a quarter before eight by our watches. * 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Passage helvieen the Main Lam! of Attica and Negropont. — Composition of the Bocks and 
 Mountains on the Eastern Coast of Attica. — Immense heaps of Schlag, and Festiges of 
 Mines. — Arrival at the Toinn of Negropont. — Excursion to Mount Delphis in Eubcea. 
 — The Verd Antique of the Ancients. — Return to Negropont ; Nature of the Rocks in 
 the Vici7iity of the Toi£ii. — Magnetic Iron Ore. — Sail for Athos ; Excursions to different 
 Monasteries; Ascent of the Summit of the Mountain ; Plants and Trees. — Departure 
 for Salonica ; and Arrival at Cenchris on the Isthmus of Corinth. — Sail for Patras. 
 
 July 25. — We left the promontory of Sunium at one in the morn- 
 ing, and having tacked frequently between the main land of Attica 
 and Long Island, we anchored at four in the afternoon in Port 
 Mandri, anciently Thoricus, now Therico. Among some low 
 Mastic trees, we observed the ruins of a temple; and in the plain 
 below, the remains of the ancient town. I walked out with my 
 gun, and shot a small species of Motacilla. The water being brackish, 
 we crossed over to Macronesi : this place is uninhabited except by a 
 few goat-herds, who receive an uncertain subsistence from the neigh- 
 bouring islands. Among the rocks I observed the Wild Pigeon, 
 and the Cornish Chough, but no small birds, except the ^Vheat-Ear, 
 the most common bird through Greece and the Archipelago. The 
 
 * Dr. S. and Mr. Hawkins arrived sit Athens, June the 19th ; from this place several 
 excursions were made to the neighbouring parts of the continent of Greece. See the 
 first volume of this work.
 
 COAST OF ATTICA. 
 
 35 
 
 Conyza Candida, the Staehelina dubia, the Verbascum Graecum, 
 grew high among the rocks. 
 
 July 29. — We made different tacks during the preceding days, 
 between the main land of Attica and the Island of Negropont : 
 the gale increasing obliged us to lower down our main-sail, and 
 with a small square sail to run before the wind. We now lost way 
 considerably, and with difficulty gained a small port on the coast 
 of Attica called Seraphina. 
 
 July 30. — The storm continuing, we remained the whole day 
 under the lee of a small uninhabited island in Port Seraphina. I 
 collected on it the seeds of the Echinophora spinosa, and a beautiful 
 species of Atriplex with a laciniatcd leaf, downy underneath. We 
 passed, with some difficulty, the wind blowing very fresh, over 
 to the main land. I shot a small species of Fringilla with the 
 head, back, and tail brown ; the breast and belly underneath, yellow. 
 I saw the Sterna Hirundo, and a smaller species of Sterna flying 
 along the shore. The rocks and mountains of the eastern coast of 
 Attica are composed of glimmer slate in the higher regions, and 
 saline marble : they contain lead-ore, with probably a considerable 
 quantity of silver. We observed immense heaps of Schlag ; and 
 the appearance of mines that had been once worked were yet 
 evident. 
 
 July 31. — We sailed at one in the morning from Port Seraphina, 
 and tacked over to Negropont. The wind rising at four, we dropped 
 anchor under a rock of one of the smaller islands, called Petalion. I 
 rambled over a considerable part of the island, but found no inhabit- 
 ants ; it was rough, uncultivated, rocky ; in winter, visited by some 
 herdsmen who come over, with their goats and swine from Negro- 
 pont. The higher parts of the mountains are covered with wild olives j 
 the vales below with mastic bushes. I saw hares, but no other qua- 
 drupeds. At three in the afternoon, the wind coming more off the 
 land, we tacked for the coast of Attica ; at sunset, we were before 
 the plains of Marathon. 
 
 F 2
 
 3g EUBCEA. 
 
 Auo-ust 1. — We continued to advance slowly up the Gulf; the 
 coast of Attica is rocky, and rising into low hills covered with the 
 Finns pinea. We passed by Calamo, JNIacropoli, and then a village 
 an hour distant from the sea ; on the opposite shore of Negropont 
 was Leucadia, witli a fertile plain of olives ; above which, towered 
 some lofty cypresses. At ten at night, we dropped anchor under the 
 walls of Negropont. 
 
 August 2. — We called early in the morning at the French con- 
 sul's : he was absent in the country, but his dragoman accompanied 
 us to the Governor's, whose kinsman, Osman Aga, received us with 
 much politeness, and gave us a letter for Steni. 
 
 I set out, with Mr. Hawkins, on an excursion to Mount Del}>his : 
 after a ride of nearly two hours, through an undulating plain highly 
 cultivated with olive grounds, and vineyards, and fruit-gardens, we 
 arrived at Philo, the country residence of the French consul ; we 
 then proceeded towards Steni, riding two hours along a torrent bed, 
 now dry, fringed with Oleanders and the Agnus Castus. ^Ve reached 
 Steni, a small Greek village at the foot of Delphis ; and soon after our 
 arrival, some Turkish guards entered our cottage ; we delivered the 
 letter of Osman Bey ; the whole village was now at our disposal ; 
 the guards offered us as many Greeks as we should have occasion for, 
 to carry our baggage, and accompany us up the mountain. A basket 
 of mulberries was brought ; some chickens were caught ; and a lamb 
 was seized, slaughtered, and roasted. The guards, having charged 
 the Greeks to procure us every possible accommodation, fired a sa- 
 lute, and returned to a neighbouring village. 
 
 August -3. — We mounted our horses at six o'clock, and began to 
 ascend Delphis. After riding two hours through a thick wood of 
 chesnut trees, forming the lower region of the mountain, we ar- 
 rived at a mandra or sheep-fold. The morning lowered ; and it be- 
 gan to rain before we could reach the mandra. The north-wind 
 made us more sensible to the change of climate. The shepherds 
 kindled a fire, and milked their flock for us. The doubtful appear- 
 ance of the weather detained us some time at this place ; we then
 
 MOUNT DELPHIS IN EUBCEA. ^ 
 
 ascended gradually ovei* a risinn;; plain for an hour. The road 
 now became steep, rugged, and difficult ; the rain increased ; and a 
 thick mist collected us close together, with the fear of losing one 
 another. We had observed, on leaving Steni, rocks of serpentine 
 in beds of saline marble, forming the Verd-antique of the ancients. 
 The higher region of the mountain was composed of beds of argil- 
 laceous slate of various colours, upon which a primary black marble lay 
 superincumbent. I found several of the more rare plants of Parnassus 
 ixrowino- amonf; the clefts of the rocks near the summit of the moim- 
 tain, and some which I had not before observed in Greece. The 
 goats and sheep had cropped the choicest flowers, and left me half- 
 bitten imperfect specimens. The storm increased, and prevented us 
 from examining further. We took shelter in a natiu'al grotto imme- 
 diately under the summit of the mountain : some alpine plants, now 
 in flower, himg pendant in festoons from the walls of it. Near us, 
 the snow was lying in the deep depressed parts. The storm now in- 
 creased to a hurricane ; the wind raged ; the hail drove furiously 
 along the mountain ; we with difficulty kept our feet on the declivity 
 of the rock ; loose stones covered the road, and made our progress 
 dano-erous and uncertain. We arrived at the mandra deluged with 
 rain ; a fire was kindled that restored to us the use of our feet and 
 hands ; and, in less than a quarter of an hotu', we set forward for 
 Steni. It still continued raining ; but we were sheltered, in great 
 measure, from the wind, by the thick shade of the chesnuts. In 
 two lioursj we arrived at Steni. 
 
 August 4. — jNIy portfolio was quite wet, and we spent the morn- 
 ing in changing the plants, and drying the papers. At mid-day, tlie 
 clouds broke, and the weather clearing up, we set out for Negropont. 
 The torrent-bed, which we had lately passed quite dry, was consider- 
 ably swollen. On our arrival, we sent our compliments to the Pasha, 
 thanking him for our kind reception at Steni, requesting the further 
 favor of his firman, as we expected to touch at different parts of the 
 island, on our way to INIount Atluis, being informed there were 
 pirates in the Gulf of Negropont.
 
 38 
 
 ATHOS. 
 
 August 5. — We walked out on the shore to the'north of the town ; 
 the rocks are composed of serpentine stone, with veins of asbestos, 
 and soap-stone intermixed. On the sands, we collected some mag- 
 netic iron-ore, with beautiful crystallizations. The houses of Negro- 
 pont have a mean appearance ; are mostly ill built ; and inhabited by 
 Turks. The Greeks are here more oppressed than in the other Greek 
 islands ; and the Turks are said to have a bad character ; though we 
 were assured, by the French consul that we might travel through 
 the island with the greatest security. The shore of Eoeotia, on the 
 contrary, was said to be dangerous, and infested by pirates. We spent 
 three days in working through the straits with a contrary wind ; we 
 were becalmed off the island of Scopelo ; and on the 10th of August, 
 by the assistance of the oars, we reached the peninsula of Athos, 
 and dropped anchor a little to the eastward of a bay called Daphne. 
 I set out, with Captain Emery, for the village of Caryes, the resi- 
 dence of the Turkish Aga, to show our passports, and demand a guide 
 to attend us during our stay on the mountain. We then proceeded 
 to the monastery of Ivero. On our arrival, we were received by the 
 monks with much distinction ; a dinner, composed of different sorts 
 of fish, was immediately provided for us. We were much struck 
 with the splendour and magnificence of this monastery, superior to 
 any we had yet seen in Greece. 
 
 August 11. — We went again, early in the morning, to the monas- 
 tery of Ivero ; winding along the shore for half an hour, we passed 
 the port of Daphne ; and mounting by a steep ascent, we gained 
 soon the monastery of Xeropotamo, a large magnificent cloister of 
 a quadrangular form. In the middle stands the church, a sumptuous 
 building, paved with different coloured marbles, and ornamented with 
 daubings of strange bizarre figures of saints, with much tinsel and 
 finery, in the taste of the modern Greeks. Leaving the convent, we 
 continued our walk to Caryes, shaded from the sun by some vener- 
 able old chesnuts, which composed here the principal part of the syl- 
 van scenery. Near half way from Caryes, the prospect was xmcom- 
 monly rich and beautiful ; a vale stretched out into a verdant lawn,
 
 ATHOS. 39 
 
 with cattle feeding in it, diversified with habitations, and adorned 
 with trees, whose foliage was marked with various tints. Caryes, 
 though only a village, is the market of Mount Athos : here live the 
 different artisans and mechanics who supply with their wai'e the nu- 
 merous monasteries. The name of Caryes is taken from the nut 
 trees which I observed growing abundantly near it. As we approach- 
 ed this place, another beautiful scene presented itself The town ap- 
 peared as it were pendant on the side of the mountain ; some lofty 
 pine trees towered above it ; below, were hanging vineyards and 
 fruit eardens contrasted with the monasteries and the sombre hue of 
 the cypress. Leaving Caryes, we descended to Ivero through beau- 
 tiful sylvan scenery, where we arrived in two hours. Ivero appeared 
 to us a Grecian Elysium ; from our windows, we commanded a fine 
 view of the sea ; a short lawn intervened between it and the monas- 
 tery ; to the right, passing a torrent bed shaded with planes, were 
 vineyards, that broke the roughness of the approaching mountain. 
 
 August 12. — The mules belonoino; to the convent were offered to 
 us by the Hegoumenos ; and after riding six hours over a mountain- 
 ous rocky road near the coast, we arrived at the monastery of Laura, 
 the largest and most considerable of the numerous convents on the 
 Holy Mountain. It contains six hundred caloyers, and has several 
 cells or small convents dependent on it. As soon as we arrived we 
 were waited upon by the exiled Archbishop of Athens, who had 
 reached this place a few days since. He was full of schemes to obtain 
 his enlargement, and the see from which he had just been dethroned : 
 his agent set off for Constantinople during our stay on the mountain. 
 Notwithstandino; the grandeur of Laura, we met with indifferent fare: 
 a strict fast for the Panagia, or the Virgin, prescribed at present to 
 the monks of Monte Santo the use of fresh fish ; and the arid en- 
 virons of Laura iU supplied so numerous a convent with vegetable 
 products ; and we with difficulty procured some pickled sprats and 
 olives. Here superstitious folly reigns in full force. The cocks crow 
 only to wake the sleepy caloyer. Eggs are brought from Lemnos and
 
 40 ATHOS. 
 
 other islands. Oxen graze in the valley ; but neither cows, ewes, or 
 she-goats are suffered to pollute this holy spot. In the library, which 
 contains two small rooms, one for the printed books, the other for 
 manuscripts, I was shown an ancient copy of Dioscorides, written in 
 small ancient characters, with illuminated figures, but ill executed. 
 We took leave of the unfortunate Archbishop of Athens, and mount- 
 ing oin- mules set forward for the summit of Athos. After riding- 
 three hours we passed by the monastery of Keratia, on a rocky steep 
 to the left far below us : our road led us over precipices difficult and 
 dangerous to pass. In two hours, winding by a woody ascent, con- 
 sisting of Ilex, Andrachne, and other shrubs, we arrived at a small 
 chapel dedicated to the Panagia. Trees now became scarce ; and the 
 higher regions of the mountain rose naked above us ; the summit 
 being about an hour distant, and crowned with another chapel. After 
 dinner, leaving our mules below, we ascended by a road formed by 
 large pieces of marble placed upright on each side of it. Athos is 
 certainly inferior in height to many of the Grecian mountains : we 
 found no snow on its summit ; nor did I observe any of those plants 
 characteristic of an alpine region. The mountain is rich in Plantae 
 sylvaticoe ; and I observed on it all those trees which I had found in 
 different parts of Gi-eece, and some which I had not seen elsewhere. 
 Descending from the summit of Athos, we mounted our mules at the 
 lower chapel of the Panagia ; and having passed through the higher 
 parts of the wooded region we came, by one of those roads which art 
 had laboured with uncommon ingenuity and difficulty, to the convent 
 of St. Anne, where we arrived in three hours. Gneiss and argil- 
 laceous slate compose the lower bed of the mountain ; the super- 
 incumbent mass is a grey primitive marble, more or less inclined to 
 white; near to the summit I observed some almost wholly white. 
 The site of the convent is uncommonly picturesque and beautiful : 
 hermitages excavated in the rock to the number of fifty or sixty, 
 with their tops of argillaceous slate, glitter round it ; several water- 
 falls, brought down from the upper region of the mountain by 
 wooden conduits, irrigate numerous little vineyards. Above the con-
 
 CENCHRE^. 
 
 41 
 
 vent, rises the mountain, breaking into rocks that pierce through the 
 thick foliage, now of" various hues ; and high above these towers the 
 naked summit of Athos : below, the sea extends itself in a wide 
 expanse. 
 
 August 14. — We left the convent of St. Anne in the morning, 
 and descended by hanging vineyards and hermitages cut out of the 
 rock to the beach, where a boat waited for us. The scenery of the 
 south coast of the promontory is very beautiful and various : as we 
 rowed softly along, we had time to admire it. The shore was bold 
 and rocky, with ravines, each presenting the romantic site of a 
 monastery. We passed first a cluster of hermitages ; then the small 
 monastery of St. Paul ; then that of St. John ; afterwards one of 
 St. Nicholas, which appeared new ; and lastly, that of the Panagia, 
 situated on the rounded top of an insulated rock, high on the moun- 
 tain. We now turned the western point of the promontory, and in 
 somewhat less than three hours arrived at our vessel ; and at seven 
 in the morning, a favourable breeze springing up, we set sail for 
 Salonica. 
 
 August 30. — We parted with our friend and fellow-traveller 
 Mr. Hawkins, who intended to make some further excursions in the 
 Archipelago ; and bidding adieu to the hospitable house of our 
 consul JNIr. iSIoor, embarked on board of the Poriote that had broueht 
 us from Athens, agreeing for one hundred piastres to be carried to 
 the port of Cenchris, on the isthmus of Corinth. 
 
 August 31. — The wind being contrary we dropped anchor about 
 seven o'clock in the small bay of Cassandra, where we were detained 
 the whole day : walking out to herborise, I observed on the shore the 
 Bupleurum fruticosum, and the Convolvulus Soldanella. 
 
 Sept. 2. — During the night the Exoca^tus volitans of Linnaeus 
 leaped into our vessel. Sept. 4., at noon, we dropped anchor in the 
 port of Cenchris : a small hut near the port serves as a custom-house, 
 the only remains of the antient Cenchreae ; around it grew corn ; and 
 some plantations of cotton were intermixed with the Panicum Milia- 
 ceum, still called by the Greeks KiyXf'- Might not the original cul- 
 
 VOL. II. G
 
 ^2 PATRAS. 
 
 tivation of tliis plant here in preference to other places have given 
 name to the port and village? After dinner, I walked out to botanise 
 on some high and steep rocks on the left. On my return, near the 
 shore I observed a new species of Cuscuta twining round the branches 
 of some low jNIastic trees ; and on entering our boat, one of the sailors 
 brought me the CoryphjEna Pompilus. 
 
 Sept. 5. — We left the Poriote vessel, satisfied with the captain 
 and his crew, who had served us with fidelity and attention in both 
 our voyages ; and we crossed the isthmus, about eight miles over, to 
 a port or scala, consisting of a few straggling warehouses on the beach. 
 We stowed our baggage in the lower part of one of these warehouses, 
 belonging to a Greek, who sat at the receipt of custom ; and became 
 common tenants with a Georgian bishop, our host, and an Albanese 
 of the upper. W^e found only a small Zantiote boat lying in the 
 port ; and agreed with the owner to carry us to Fatras, stopping five 
 days at Asprospiti. 
 
 Sept. 6. — Walked out along the beach on the side of the Pelopon- 
 nesus. Among some low ground covered with bushes I discovered a 
 new species of Scirpus, and shot a small minute bird which I do not 
 think is mentioned by Linneeus, of the Motacilla tribe. 
 
 Sept. 7. — I traced some of the remains of antiquity on the Grecian 
 side of the isthmus. The Pancratium INIaritimum, now in flower, 
 ornamented a low sandy beach ; I observed also a species of Clypeola 
 now in seed; several Curlews flew along the shore: and in a small 
 pool near the port I shot the following Gralla? : the Charadrius Hia- 
 ticula, Scolopax, and Tringa. 
 
 Sept. 8. — We embarked on board of the Zantiote at four in the 
 morning, and by gentle breezes and the use of our oars anchored at 
 three in the afternoon in the harbour of Asprospiti. At five 1 pro- 
 cured horses, and set out for Livadia. 
 
 We sailed from Asprospiti Sept. 14., and arrived at Patras. On 
 the 19th I made an excursion to Olono, the highest mountain in the 
 Morea. After riding three miles through the plain of Palouria, richly 
 cultivated with vineyards and olive grounds, we entei'ed into a rocky
 
 PATRAS. 43 
 
 country, and in six hours' time arrived at Cumano, a small village 
 consisting of a few hamlets on the roots of Olono. The 20th I began 
 my ascent of the mountain ; at the end of nearly six hours we reached 
 the base of the higher summit ; and having refreshed ourselves we 
 prepared to climb the remaining part : a thick mist that rose at mid- 
 day obscured the view, and hastened my return. The mountain is 
 a rock of secondary marble : the base is covered with a thick deep 
 soil of a brownish blackish earth, in which were frequent pieces of 
 Jasper and indurated soap-stone. Near the summit I shot a new 
 species of JNIotacilla : Cornish choughs in great abundance were now 
 very noisy with their young in the caverns of the rock: the mountain 
 naked except where some fir trees were scattered on the base, was 
 much exposed to the wind that had shorn its sides and summit. 
 There were few plants in flower : I saw the Amaryllis lutea, and a 
 new species, which I do not find mentioned by Linnseus. The mist 
 gradually became thinner as we descended ;. and we arrived much 
 fatigued late in the evening at Cumano. 
 
 Sept. 2. — Leaving Cumano, I changed my route and returned by 
 Anakaia to Patras ; the former is a small village situated in a fertile 
 vale cultivated with rice, cotton, and India corn. Among the rice, 
 now nearly ripe, I found some curious plants. 
 
 Extract from Mr. Whittingtons Journal refeiTcd to in p. 29. 
 
 Patmos, February 16. 1817. — In consequence of the enquiries we 
 had made for ancient remains, we were this day directed to a hill 
 which rises precisely on the narrow isthmus, which unites the two 
 divisions of tlie island, and separates the principal harbour from Port 
 Merica. The present landing place is situated at its foot ; and we 
 were obliged, in going from the monastery, to descend nearly to the 
 magazines, before we could begin the ascent of the hill. We were 
 gratified by finding on the summit very considerable remains of a 
 
 G 2
 
 44 CITADEL OF PATMOS. 
 
 Greek fortress. The rock is not so lofty as that on which the 
 
 ■» 
 
 T 
 
 0^ 
 
 88 paces from A to B. 
 modern town and monastery are built ; but its singular situation, be- 
 tween two ports, renders it even more commanding. The remains 
 are almost exclusively on the northern edge of the hill, and lie be- 
 tween two of those small churches which are so numerous in the 
 island. * The wall and towers on that side are very distinct and easy 
 to be traced, consisting of solid and regular Greek masonry, resem- 
 bling exactly that of the Acropolis at Sarnos, excepting that, in this 
 instance, the blocks, with which it is constructed, are not of lime- 
 stone, but of the coarse porphyry of the island. The annexed is a 
 ground-planiof the wall as far as we could trace it, and I have marked 
 in it, with a broad black line, those spots in which the ruijis are most 
 considerable, distinguishing, by a dotted line, others in which the 
 traces are less perfect. The wall, when continued at either extremity, 
 must have made an angle to the southward, for it now finishes in a 
 precipice at each end ; and though no further traces are distinguish- 
 ablef, it appears, from the nature of the ground, that the fortress 
 must have covered an irregular triangle. The thickness of the wall 
 is seven feet, and the towers measure fourteen feet in front, and seven- 
 
 * Patnios contains not fewer than 240 churches, of which, however, nianj' are only 
 used on the feast clays of their resjjeclive saints. There is but one town or village in the 
 island, which consists of 589 inhabited houses. The stately monastery (which more re- 
 sembles a castle than a convent) supports fifty-two monks, including the Hegoumenos. Its 
 revenue is computed at 200 purses, and it pays annually to the Porte from 3 to 4000 
 piastres, being One-third of the whole impost furnished by the island. 
 
 f At a subsequent visit to the spot, we observed a few remains on the S. W. edge of 
 the hill, but of so doubtful a nature, that I have not ventured to add them to the plan.
 
 CITADEL OF PAT.MOS. 45 
 
 teen feet at the sides. There are the remains of a tower thirty leet 
 square near the western extremity, which seems to be unconnected 
 with the outer walls, between which and it there are traces of a few 
 steps hewn in the rock. The surface in its neighbourhood is much 
 heaped with piles of ruin, and the whole area is thickly strewn with 
 fragments of ancient pottery. 1 saw no marble remains, of any kind, 
 in anv part of the ruins; but I found in the soil a small bronze medal, 
 I believe of Chios, having a Sphinx on one side, and an Amphora 
 on the other. The view from this spot, as from all the summits of 
 this island, is of remarkable beauty; and from hence, perhaps, is best 
 seen its peculiar and curious form. 
 
 February 25. — We descended from the town to Port Sapsala, where 
 we saw near the beach three fragments of columns of common grey 
 sranitc about seventeen inches in diameter. From thence, we walked 
 to Porto Greco, where we were told, that we should find a remark- 
 able rock, from which a part of that port takes the name of To Uofjo 
 7?? nffx?. It is an insulated mass of coarse red and white breccia, 
 about forty feet in height, and is covered all over with traces of ex- 
 cavation. On the side next the sea, we found a flight of steps, cut 
 in the solid rock, b}"^ which we mounted to the top, where we found 
 the surface artificially flattened, having a slight elevation at one end, 
 to which there was an ascent of a few steps from two opposite sides. 
 \\liere the rock slopes towards the land, we found two wells cut 
 in the stone, not far fi'om the summit. One was of considerable 
 depth, and both were neatly cut. There was not much water in 
 either, but it was well tasted and clear. On every side, we found 
 the rock excavated into small caverns or niches, worked with much 
 neatness and precision ; and all over the surface innumerable traces 
 of stairs leading in different directions, many of which (from the 
 circumstance of parts having fallen) now end in nothing. It is dif- 
 ficult to determine with what intention these caves were formed, 
 as there is nothing to denote them sepulchral chambers, and as the 
 greater number of them, from the smallness of their size, arc mani- 
 festly unfit for that purpose.
 
 46 
 
 SECOND VOYAGE IN THE GRECIAN SEAS. 
 
 [FROM THE PAPERS OF THE LATE DR. SIDTHORP.] 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Departure from Constantinople. — Beautifxd and striking Appearance of the City and tieig/i- 
 bonri/ig Coasts. — Marmora. — Substance and Composition cf the Rocks. — Unhealthy 
 Situation of the Town at the Dardanelles. — Plants. — Marine Conchijlia. — Birds. — 
 Anival at Imbros. — Shells. — Vegetable Productions of the Island. — Festival in honour 
 of the Panagia- or Madonna. — Porphyry, Pitch-stone, Jasper, Iron-stone, and yellow 
 Earth of Imbros. 
 
 September 9. 1794. — We embarked at Top-khana, and sailed un- 
 der the walls of Constantinople, which extended along the eastern 
 shore of Thrace to the Seven Towers. The light wind and the little 
 way our vessel made gave us time to contemplate, at our leisure, the 
 magnificent scene * that presented itself to our view. The gay light 
 buildings of the Seraglio were contrasted with the sombre cypresses 
 which rose among the splendid domes and taper minarets of the 
 mosques and public buildings. The ports were filled with shipping, 
 and boats of canoe-like forms, some gilt and carved, were traversing 
 it in all directions. The waters of Kat-khana, running into the Pro- 
 
 * The reader will be pleased to see in what manner a Turk expresses liimself when he 
 is expatiating in praise of the capital of tlie empire : " Constantinople est la creme des 
 capitales del'univers; il n'y a rien apres le Paradis de pareil a Constantinople, ni de sem- 
 blable a ses agremens, a sa verdure et a ses promenades ; mais surtout voit on quelque 
 chose qui approche du canal ou se joignent les deux mers, qui est orne des deux cotes de 
 maisons, si niagnifique, qu'il semble etre una portion de I'lrem et meme un modele du Pa- 
 radis ?" — Relation de Dourry Efleiidi, translated by Langles, from a MS. in the Royal 
 Library. — E.
 
 MARMORA. 47 
 
 pontis, constantly scoured the canal of Constantinople ; on one side 
 of which, with its crowded buildings, rose the northern part of the 
 citv ; on the opposite shore appeared Galata and the arsenal Top- 
 khana with its casernes for the artilleiy. Extensive cemeteries, filled 
 with groves ol" cypress, rose on the western shore of the Bosphorus. 
 Opposite to it were Scutari and the coast of Asia covered with towns ; 
 bevond which were mountains of considerable height * : the sea was 
 further encircled with islands interspersed in the Propontis. The 
 points of Asia and Europe, which we had left behind us, appeared to 
 join, and the mouth of the Bosphorus to form a grand and magni- 
 ficent bay. I felt a gloomy pleasure in viewing these scenes, as. I was 
 probably surveying them for the last time, and various political spe- 
 culations arose from the objects before us. At sunset we had made 
 but little progress : St. Stephano on the Thracian coast, which was 
 low and naked, was nearly opposite to us. The moon rose veiled by a 
 thick mist, which rendered it of an opatjue red colour ; it gradually, 
 in its ascent, changed to an orange, and then into a clear yellow ; 
 rising above the mist, it acquired a bright silver colour. We had 
 now a dead calm, and the vessel would scarcely work. I observed in 
 our boat specimens of Sygnathus acus which had been caught by our 
 boys : our Greek sailors called them Beloni. I perceived some of 
 them, as we embarked, pursuing the small fishes in the port of 
 Top-khan a. 
 
 September 10. — Light winds during the night carried us gently 
 along. In the morning, we had a distant view of jNIarmora covered 
 with a thick haze, which is very frequent in the Propontis during the 
 summer months. At sunset, the island of ^larmora bore right 
 ahead, distant about fifteen miles, presenting high and elevated land 
 with rough unequal points. The continent of xVsia was about the 
 same distance, more elevated and pointed. We caught the Blatta 
 orientalis, called by our sailors K-aTi^av^tSx, flying upon our decks, and 
 
 • A media Constantinopoli jucuiitlissinnis est in marc, albcntemquc pcrpctuis nivibus 
 Olympum Asia; prospectus. — Busbcijuius, Ep. 1. — E.
 
 ^g SEA OF MARMORA. 
 
 the (irylliis domesticus, ^.K^lca, chirped incessantly in our cabin through 
 the nifrht. Our sailors, in the morning, looked at their compass ; it 
 had eight points which they distinguished in the following manner : 
 The North, Tramontane ; N. E. Greco ; East, Levante ; S. E. Si- 
 rocco ; South, Noteia ; S. W. Garbe ; West, Ponente ; N. W. 
 jNlaj^stral. 
 
 September 11.^ — I went on shore at Marmora, and climbed the 
 rocks, which were composed of serpentine-stone traversed with veins 
 of Asbestos and Amianthus. In the ravines, I observed detached 
 blocks of marble rolled down from, the higher parts of the mountain. 
 These rocks were covered with Arbutus, the Cerris oak, the Tree 
 heath, the Spanish broom, and the Anthyllis Hermannige. The 
 Crithmum maritimum grew abundantly out of the fissures : on the 
 shore Statice Limonium, Cucubalus fabarius, and Bunias Cakile. I 
 saw but few shells : 1 picked up a stone, cast on the shore, perforated 
 by Pholades ; and two or three sorts of Serpulas encrusted the rocks. 
 From this island, Constantinople is supplied with abundance of white 
 granulated marble for the mosques, fountains, and other public 
 buildings. 
 
 At five P. M. we were opposite to Gallipoli : the Hellespont 
 straightened as we advanced : we passed Chardac andLampsaco on the 
 Asiatic coast. The shores of the Hellespont, though inferior in beauty 
 to those of the Bosphorus, offer various inviting points of situation 
 for towns and villages. The soil appears also much richer ; and be- 
 tween Rodosto and Gallipoli we observed large tracts of cultivated 
 ground in extended stubbles. We noticed beyond them a conical 
 mound of earth of artificial origin ; a tumulus or cairn commemorative 
 of a battle*, or the interment of some celebrated chieftain. It was 
 eleven o'clock when we dropped anchor on the Asiatic side of the 
 Dardanelles. 
 
 * Busbequius saw some of tlie tumuli in Thrace, " quos Turcae de iiuiustiia cxcitatos 
 fabulaiitur, ut cssent niomimenta pugnaruni honiiiiuuique quos belli furor hausit se- 
 pulcra." Ep. 1. — E.
 
 DARDANELLES. 
 
 49 
 
 September 12. — The house of Tarragona the Jew, where we lodged, 
 was at the farther extremity of the town : we walked through several 
 narrow streets almost overflowed with gutters of putrid water, exhaling 
 strong deleterious effluvia. The great heat of the summer, the want 
 of rain, with the vicinity to marshy land, had made the Asiatic town 
 of the Dardanelles very unhealthy this year. At the house of our 
 consul, the Jew, we found his brother sick in bed, a youth of eighteen 
 years of age ; he was attended by his pregnant wife, who appeared 
 about seventeen. Large copious bleedings, improperly made in a 
 typhus or low fever, had greatly weakened him ; and the long ne- 
 glect of the Peruvian bark, and then the large inconsiderate use of it, 
 continued to protract the disease. Greatly unfortunate are the miser- 
 able patients of this country, the object of ignorant empirics who, 
 without medical skill, treat them with superstitious ceremonies. The 
 practice of the most enlightened parts of Europe, founded on the 
 study of physic, is here unknown. 
 
 Our consul accompanied us in a walk along the Marina to the north 
 of the town : we passed by numerous potteries, in some of which 
 were manufactured vases and pots of no inelegant shape. We ob- 
 served at the Dardanelles the artist very adroitly painting them, but 
 the paint was not burnt in. The clay was dug out of some low flat 
 ground at the end of the town. * On a rushv marsh grew some mari- 
 time plants, Salicoi'nia, Salsola arenaria, and Chenopodium maritimum: 
 Statice Limonium was in flower. Leaving the marsh, we walked up 
 a rising ground on which I collected the seeds of some curious plants, 
 as Ruta linifolia and a species of Convolvulus, from which I conceive 
 the celebrated Scammony of Mysia was made. The dead stalks of the 
 Leontice Leonto])etalon were blown over the fallow fields with its 
 round black pea-shaped seed inclosed in its inflated capsule, the re- 
 ticulated case of which only remained ; few plants, except Echino- 
 phora tenuifolia, were in flower; even the Syngenesian, the latest 
 
 • Dardanelli. Uno in loco Terra cretacea et Argilla Porcellana. Forskal. — E. 
 VOL. II. H
 
 -Q IMBROS. 
 
 flowering plants, were mostly in seed, as Carthamus corymbosus and 
 Creticus, Carlina lanata and corymbosa, and Cnicus Acarnas. The 
 Astrao'alus tragacantha and Satureia thymbra covered the higher part 
 of the hill, which was a kind of calcareous sand-stone with petrefac- 
 tions of oysters* and other shells. On the Marina, a quantity of 
 Zostera marina was driven on shore, and this is collected by the in- 
 habitants of the Hellespont, who call it <puy.ic(, lor covering their 
 houses. After dinner, we walked to a vineyard, belonging to the 
 consul, at the south end of the town, situated in a vale watered by 
 the Uardauus, which was very shallow, and appeared more like a 
 torrent bed than a river. Pebbles of Jasper and Quartz were brought 
 down by it from the neighbouring mountain. The bitter Willow, the 
 Tamarisk, the Agnus castus fringed its banks. Several Egrets, Ardea 
 Garzetta, were waving in its shallow streams ; and I shot a species of 
 Trinoa piping along its shore. On the side next the town, was a 
 fine grove of Planes, on the trunks of which the Picus major ran, 
 with a loud shrill shriek, and a little Flycatcher darted backwards and 
 forwards from its branches. 
 
 September 17. — We put into a small bay of the island of Imbros 
 where we found ourselves but ill sheltered, by some projecting rocks, 
 from the wind. We went on shore, but saw no traces of cultivation ; 
 the island was a rough porphyry rock, of considerable extent, broken 
 into irreo-ular masses. Near the spot where our vessel anchored 
 was a large Saline, which extended more than a mile over a 
 flat sandy tract. Several pieces of pumice were driven on shore ; 
 some shells and Zoophytes, Area Noa?, JNlytilus flavus, and several 
 species of Venus, Tellina, Nerita, Buccinum, and single species of 
 Bulla. T found a large species of sponge resembling pumice, called 
 Y.^oyyo : the most common plant along the coast was Centaurea 
 spinosa. 
 
 * On the shore of the Dardanelles, near Sestos, Olivier observed a tolerably thick 
 bank of marine conchyiia, ostrea cdulis, veiuis thione, vcnus cancellata, solen vagina, 
 buccinum reticulatum, cerinthium vulgatum E.
 
 IMBROS. 
 
 51 
 
 Sept. 18. — Early in the morning, we made sail for Lemnos ; 
 but the sky appearing very stormy, our carabokyri * dropt anchor again 
 at the eastern end of a Httle bay on the south side of Imbros. We 
 went on shore to examine the island : on the beach, I met with 
 two or three species of the sponge kind I had not seen before. The 
 rocks were principally composed of porphyry, very barren in plants; 
 near the coast, grew Centaurea spinosa in great plenty, which the 
 inhabitants called AaTr^oaTOi^cr, from its white colour and resemblance 
 to prickly Burnet, which was common all over the island, and named 
 iTc/jCr. The Nerion, dy^.o^drpvyj, grew in the furrows between the 
 mountain, and with the Agnus castus, Kuyny., marked the course of 
 the torrent bed, I saw very few trees or shrubs ; the Quercus Cerris, 
 ApC^f, Qu. coccifera, U^ivo, the Rhamnus Paliurus, d-rraXiv^i, the wild 
 olive, dypiiKXcctx : the berries of the broad-leaved Phillyrea, IxoaoTr^tvo, 
 were turning black, and I tasted some of the ripe fruit of the wild 
 Pear, oi.yjKa.Sioi, which had a rough austere taste ; this, however, did 
 not prevent the islanders from eating it : the caper shrub grew amongst 
 the rocks, y.x-n-TTafig : the Carthamus corymbosus retained its ancient 
 name in %a/*a;iA so, and probably the Atracty lis of Dioscorides may be 
 found in the Centaurea solstitialis, the name given to this plant by 
 the islanders being a.T^ocy.'kv^a : besides these, I noticed the following 
 plants : Onopordum Illyricum, a,yxiSo\j^a.y.c'.vQu, Asparagus aphyllus, 
 <r(pa.(.u'),yia, Ononis villosa, diov/ida., Hypericum crispum, uyouSouf.c, Ci- 
 chorium intybus, ttm^oXiSi, Satureia capitata, 9uf.iolfi, Asphodelus ra- 
 mosus, a7(^owcu\o, and the common bramble, Bdrov, the Osyris alba, 
 and the Spartium junceum, (ppoKuXica. The Lichen ventosus, 
 and several species of lichen, encrusted the rocks. The islanders 
 called them c/Spjaf, but our carabokyri, who was a Poriot, Xeiy^i^n : 
 some sea weeds, which I collected, were promiscuously termed ^uxm. 
 On returning from my walk, I met one of the islanders, who was sent 
 by my companion to invite me to the village fete in honour of the 
 
 • Kapafioxvp^c. — Dii. C. in v. f The ancient BpCov, Muscus.. — E. 
 
 H 2
 
 52 IMBROS. 
 
 tlie Paiiagia. I was conducted to a few scattered hamlets surrounded 
 by a grove of olives ; here two priests officiated, surrounded by 
 a numerous band of peasants : five lambs had been sacrificed, and 
 they were now preparing them for dinner. I was introduced to this 
 rural groupe in a little chapel, and received a benediction from the 
 hands of one of the Papades ; ate of the consecrated bread ; and, 
 having made my offering, we sat down to partake of the village fete. 
 The company were disposed in two groupes, men, women, and 
 children promiscuously ; when a rustic host distributed, from a wooden 
 scewer, cabobs made of the sacrificed lamb ; next was brought in a 
 course of boiled meat ; then cheese, and a soft curd, called misitra ; 
 and, lastly, a wheat soup, something like our furmenty, kourkouss. 
 After dinner, grace was said with many signs of the cross ; bread and 
 wine were consecrated ; and a dish with boiled wheat, preserved olives, 
 and raisins, being brought to the Papas, he distributed the contents 
 to the suiTounding groupe ; then taking a small piece of bread, he 
 dipped it in the wine, when each of the men came, and devoutly re- 
 ceived it from the hand of the officiating priest, who put it into his 
 mouth, crossing his upper lip with the back of his finger. The 
 women did not partake of the bread and wine, but only of the con- 
 secrated dish of wheat : each time a handful was distributed, a small 
 wax taper was put over it. The ceremony was performed in true 
 rural simplicity, and a gratified look was strongly expressed in the 
 cheerful countenance of the peasantry. One of the priests had an in- 
 telligent appearance : he was not discomposed at our entrance : he 
 had, he told us, a little library, consisting of fifty books, and was 
 easy and communicative ; the other looked proud and sullen, and said 
 little. We were told by the former, that the island was sixty Turkish 
 miles in circuit ; that it had six towns, and about 1000 houses ; that 
 the produce of the island was chiefly corn ; and in favourable seasons 
 a quantity of it was exported ; it has a small race of sheep and goats. 
 The island has no port, and was seldom visited ; of course, the few 
 provisions it furnished were cheap : we purchased a lamb for forty- 
 five paras, about twenty-pence of English money. On our return to
 
 IMBROS. 53 
 
 our vessel, we sprung a covey of red-legged partridges, -jTi^^mic, and 
 killed a large serpent we found sleeping by the road side, called 
 T\j(pxirt : we were informed that the island pi'oduced five sorts of ser- 
 pents, and one venomous, called ox'^^fx ; the others, which, as well 
 as the Tuphlites, were innocent, are called \a>,(pta.Ti, crxim^, and ve^o^iS;. 
 The most common bird I saw on the island was the Royston crow, 
 Kopcuvi. The inhabitants were not much acquainted with the me- 
 dicinal or economical uses of their plants ; a decoction of the seeds 
 of Mtex agnus castus was used in the diarrhoea. Their pigs were fed 
 with the acorns of the Kermes oak ; and brooms were made from the 
 Spartium Scoparium, called i?pcx.ax/o:z: they cut also the herb Ori- 
 ganum, (Riganos) and sprinkled it as a grateful aromatic on their 
 meat. 
 
 Sept. 19. — Although the wind of yesterday had abated, our 
 carabokyri still expressed his fears about sailing. We went again on 
 shore in the morning. The rocks were exceedingly barren ; and the 
 goats had browsed upon the few vegetables which they produced. 
 Besides the varieties of Porphyry of which the mass was principally 
 composed, we found specimens of different coloured Pitch stones ; 
 pieces of Jasper and Ilornstone occurred also near the shore, and 
 white indurated clay in a loose kind of breccia : We found also a bed 
 of the yellow earth of Werner, which is used as a colouring material, 
 and brought to the bazar of Constantino])le. We observed also a 
 portion of a rock, a mass of yellow argillaceous stone, but which 
 had no colouring quality. The wind sunk considerably during the 
 morning, and in the afternoon our carabokyri expressed his in- 
 clination to sail. As we were raising the anchor, the benevolent 
 Papas, whom we had seen yesterday celebrating the feast of the 
 Panagia, came down to the shore to visit us, bringing a present of 
 bread, melons, and grapes. His village, where he resided, was at 
 the distance of three hours ; this mark of attention was the more 
 pleasing, as it was unexpected ; we added to our thanks some little 
 presents, and the vessel getting under weigh, he was put on shore. 
 We sailed, with a gentle wind, along the coast of Imbros. Several
 
 54 LEMNOS. 
 
 little bays appeared which might easily be made places of safe an- 
 chorafe for sliipping, especially for small craft. Clearing the island, 
 we had a foir view of the elevated land of Samothrace, and we were 
 not far distant from the south point, when the sun with a glowing 
 tint sunk behind Athos, forming a grand conical figure with an in- 
 sular appearance. 
 
 [The islands of Samothrace and Lemnos are contiguous to Imbros : 
 the former has been seldom visited : of Lemnos, some account is in- 
 troduced in this place, extracted from the journals of Dr. Hunt, who, 
 with the late Professor Carlyle, spent a few days on the island in the 
 course of their voyage to Athos.] — E. 
 
 LEMNOS. 
 
 Samothrace. — Anchurage at Lemnos. — Character of the Turkish Governor. — Dress of 
 the Female Inhabitants. — Hot Springs. — Terra Sigillnta. — Anecdotes of the celebrated 
 Hassan Pasha. — Volcanic Appeaiance of the Island. — Duties and Taxes. — Prices of 
 various Articles. — Return to Castro. — Visit to the Didascalos. — Excursion to Palaio 
 Castro. 
 
 March 22. 1 801. — We regretted not beingable to touch at Samothrace : 
 our boatmen assured us that its forests and valleys are very beautiful, 
 not inferior to those of any other island in the Archipelago, and that 
 many remains of ancient buildings are to be found in it. There is 
 now but one town in the island containing about three hundred Greek 
 families, and a few Turks. Some of the women pretend to a know- 
 ledge of sorcerv and divination ; and it is not uncommon for super- 
 stitious Greek sailors to buy a favourable wind from them, or for a 
 fair maid of Scio to consult them on the composition of a philtre to 
 brino- back a faithless lover. The woods furnish some ship-timber 
 which is exported, as well as about fifteen thousand bushels of fine 
 wheat, more than their annual consumption, and some goats' milk
 
 LEMNOS. 55 
 
 cheese. On our left, we saw the island which is called, in our charts, 
 Stratia : its ancient name was Nea, but it is now called by the Greeks 
 'A7/5J g-TfuTYiyoc, agios stvategos, the holy warrior, /. e. St.Michael. It 
 has a small port, with a village of about fifty families, all Greeks. 
 Here the wind failed us ; but, by dint of rowing all night, we reached 
 Castro, a port on the west side of Lemnos, about eight o'clock next 
 morning. Castro is the ancient Myrina. 
 
 jNIarch 23. — On landing, we found a servant of the Aga, or 
 Turkish Governor, wailing at the Mole to conduct us to his master. 
 The Aga received us vei'y hospitably, and added that he would cheer- 
 fully supply us with any thing we might want, and that could bepro- 
 cured in the island. He spoke Greek with as much fluency as Turkish, 
 and seemed as affable to some Greeks of the island, who were visit- 
 ing him, as to the Turks ; KaXoV ^AvB^tairog i7),a.t 6 'Ayxg, " our Aga is 
 an excellent man," was the expression the Greeks used to us when 
 speaking of him. We could hear of no antiquities nor ruins in the 
 island ; but the Aga offered us one of his guards to accompany 
 us in any excursions we might wish to make. At a house near the 
 shore, we saw a broken (ireek inscription on a block of marble. We 
 procured horses, and set out to a place called Palaio Castro, 
 where we were told some ruins remained, and which we hoped 
 migiit be those of the famous labyrinth of Lemnos with its one 
 hundred and fifty columns, its massive gates, and numerous statues, 
 and described by ancient authors as more extensive and splendid 
 than that of Crete or Egypt, and of which Pliny says there were 
 ruins remaining in his time : " Extantque adhuc reUquice cjua.'' — 
 Plin. xxxvi. 13. Our road, at first, lay through a valley cultivated 
 with corn and a few vineyards, but without any wood on the rising 
 ground. The general appearance of this island is far from pic- 
 turesque or fertile : the pastures were profusely covered with Ane- 
 mones of the most vivid and various hues ; and the sides of the 
 hills were white with the large towering Asphodel, which the 
 islanders look upon as an omen of a fruitful year. The ground, 
 we were told, was just recovering its verdure, after having been a
 
 56 LEMNOS. 
 
 prey, for three successive years, to the ravages of the locust, which 
 had devoured the shoots and leaves of the corn, grass, and vines. 
 On looking back from an eminence towards the town and Port of 
 Castro, we had a striking view of the fort or citadel. It covers the 
 top of a lofty promontory which divides the bay into two parts ; 
 both of these may be defended by it. 
 
 The dress of the Turks is nearly the same in all the islands ; but 
 that of the Greek women in Lemnos deserves to be remarked. It 
 consists of a short corset or jacket of scarlet cloth, with long sleeves, 
 loose in front, and only reaching a few inches down the back ; the 
 petticoat is very short; the wide trowsers, which are drawn tight 
 round the ancle, and then hang over, are of callico with coloured 
 aprigs : they have slippers of yellow Turkey leather, but no stock- 
 ings ; a long shawl-shaped white handkerchief is gracefully tied, like 
 a turban, round the head, and hangs down the back ready to conceal 
 the face at the approach of any Turks. To us, they did not think 
 that ceremony necessary, but civilly accosted us with " KaXwc 'OpiVare — 
 K«>v-.) 'H|t*£pa — flpcc KxXr,, and other expressions of civility. Four 
 miles from Castro, we passed a Greek village, called Chorous, where 
 there is a hot spring, still called Thermia, and over which the great 
 Hassan, the Capudan Pasha, had built a commodious bath, and a 
 chan or lodging house for strangers who frequent it for its supposed 
 medicinal qualities. A number of people were bathing when we ar- 
 rived ; the process is similar to that used in the Turkish Hummaums, 
 by first bringing on a profuse perspiration, and then using severe 
 friction, with mohair gloves, to open the pores, and relax the joints. 
 The water, which we tasted at the source, was very warm and soft, but 
 seemed to have no sensible mineral impregnation. This spot also 
 produces a kind of argillaceous earth, known in the old school 
 of physic imder the name of Terra Sigil/ata. It is still sold here in 
 small balls, and stamped with a seal containing Arabic characters, 
 and its virtues in fevers and other diseases w ere much praised by the 
 natives. Hassan Pasha, who built this bath and chan for the gra- 
 tuitous accommodation of the sick, is still called the Great Capudan
 
 LEMNOS. 
 
 57 
 
 Pasha, and is always spoken of in terms of high admiration by the 
 islanders of the Archipelago. He seems to have been one of the 
 few Turks, in late times, who possessed, in any eminent degree, 
 either courage, talents, or public spirit. In the year 1770, he hastily 
 collected a handful of volunteers on the Asiatic shore of the Dar- 
 danelles, and secretly took them over, in open boats, and during the 
 night, to Lemnos, where, falling unexpectedly on the Russians, who 
 had landed from their fleet, he compelled them, after great slaughter, 
 to evacuate the island. The Turks at Castro assured us that if the 
 Russian Admiral, Elphinstone, had not mancpuvred his fleet with a 
 skill truly Englkh, the ships, as v/ell as the land forces, must have 
 fallen a prey to this bold attack of Hassan Pasha. 
 
 Without the slightest knowledge of letters, this great man, who 
 was master of a Candiot merchant-ship, rose to the supreme com- 
 mand of the Turkish navy, and was invested by the Sultan with ab- 
 solute power over the islands and shores of the Archipelago : he pos- 
 sessed great penetration in detecting crimes, and always showed in- 
 flexible justice in punishing the delinquents, whatever their situation 
 might be. He was fond of presiding in his own courts of justice ; 
 and many of his decisions are still quoted by Turks, Greeks, and 
 .lews, which would do credit to more enlightened and impartial 
 tribunals. Before his appointment as High Admiral, the Turkish 
 marines, or Galeongees, used to commit the greatest excesses with im- 
 punity, whenever they were ordered to embark on a cruize, break- 
 ing open the houses at Galata and Pera, and plundering every Raya 
 they met, whether Greek, Jew, or Armenian. He determined to 
 abolish this- licentious practice, and succeeded in compelling the 
 Galeongees to go unarmed, whenever thev were allowed to be on 
 shore, and even then only in small parties ; a regulation which his 
 successors have been unable to enforce. He often went amongst them 
 disguised, and more than once has inflicted capital punishment with 
 his own hand on his disorderly troops. A Mussulman, or Christian, 
 in his fleet, who drank wine, was considered by him as guilty of a 
 heinous crime. He ordered the doors of all taverns and wine-shops to 
 
 VOL. II. I
 
 58 LEMNOS. 
 
 be sealed lUiring the time his fleet was in any port ; if he then found 
 a Galeongee drunk, he first made him confess (by torture, if neces- 
 sary,) where he had procured the hquor : he then punished the wine- 
 seller either with death or condemnation to the galleys. The ex- 
 cesses I saw committed by the present Capudan Pasha's troops, when 
 under sailing orders for Egypt, even in Pera, Galata, and Constan- 
 tinople, convince me, that no ordinary severity could have kept such 
 a lawless set in order. Whenever he walked out, he was accom- 
 panied by a lion which he had tamed, and which had become so docile 
 as to be allowed to go unmuzisled ; and Hassan seemed to be pleased at 
 witnessing the terror of the INIufti, the chamberlains, or the effemin- 
 ate eunuchs of the seraglio, whenever they were foixed to pay him 
 and his lion a visit of ceremony. This beast, however, at last became 
 ferocious, and showed a disposition to spring upon Europeans, to 
 whose dress he was a stranger, when he met them during his master's 
 walks in Constantinople. This occasioned some unavailing re- 
 monstrances from the foreign ministers ; but one morning the vi- 
 cious beast s{)rung upon Hassan himself, drew blood with his fangs, 
 and would soon have destroyed him, if some attendant guards had 
 not rushed forward, and overpowered the lion ; some of whom, how- 
 ever, fell victims to their zeal. The Sultan then ordered him to be 
 confined in the Royal Menagerie, where I saw him. Hassan Pasha 
 had some disposition to encourage the arts : his palaces, particularly 
 one still remaining at Cos, are among the most elegant specimens ot" 
 Turkish architectui^e, undebased by the gaudy and flimsy decorations 
 now so prevalent at Constantinople. 
 
 WTiile our guide was relating to us some traits of Hassan's history, 
 we reached the foot of the mountain on which Palaio Castro is 
 situated. The ascent was steep and rugged : the valley which ex- 
 tends from its base to the sea is very well cultivated : we counted six 
 villages on it, and saw the bay in which Hassan landed when he came 
 unexpectedly on the back of the Russian forces. 
 
 From the summit of this hill, two thirds of the island are distinctly 
 seen, with rivulets intersecting the valleys in numerous directions.
 
 LEMNOS. 59 
 
 A granite column, a few blocks of white marble, and fragments of 
 Grecian pottery, are the only remains of antiquity on this spot. The 
 mountains over which we had passed were barren and rocky, and 
 often without even brushwood on them. The whole island bears the 
 strongest marks of the effects of volcanic fire : the rocks, in many 
 parts, are like the burnt and vitrified scoria of furnaces. The climate 
 is too cold to ripen lemons or oranges well ; they, therefore, are 
 brought from Scio. It produces, however, good grapes and figs. At 
 our return to Castro, we supped with a Greek, to whom we had been 
 recommended, and who is U^ujoyipoc, or chief Greek magistrate of the 
 island. He told us that the government of their Aga, who is a 
 native of Lemnos, is very mild, and that the Greeks are not much 
 oppressed. The island is about 130 Italian miles in circuit. In the 
 forty villages of the island, he calculates about 3000 families, not 
 above 200 of whom are Turks. The 'Aga farms the Sultan's tribute, 
 for which he gives 17,000 piastres, and is supposed to collect about 
 21,000, leaving him a profit of 4000 piastres. The ossour is fixed 
 at one-tenth of the produce of the soil equally for Turks and Greeks. 
 The duty paid for all the wine of the island is only 1000 piastres. 
 The extraordinary contributions levied during the war have been con- 
 siderable. A little pier has been built at Castro, at the expense of 
 the inhabitants ; to reimburse which, every ship that enters the 
 harbour pays according to its size : our little sacoleva was charged 
 fifteen paras (about eight-pence). Large merchant-ships are built here; 
 and we saw a fifty-gun ship on the stocks for the Turkish navy : the 
 keel was of fir, but the knees and ribs and other parts of oak from 
 the island of Thasos. From that island, they also get masts tor 
 small merchant-ships, but those of large size come from the forests 
 of the Black Sea. Thasos also exports some honey, bees' wax, silk, 
 and olive oil. It has seven villages, all of Greek Christians. The 
 wine of Lemnos is of two sorts : both are black ; for one kind, six 
 paras an oke is paid, and eight for the other, about two-pence and 
 three-pence a bottle. Wheat was selling at four piastres, or six shillings 
 the bushel. Wheat-flower seventeen paras, or eight-pence halfpenny 
 
 I 2
 
 60 
 
 LEMNOS. 
 
 the oke * ; barley eight paras. Cheese, sold wholesale, was seven 
 paras an oke ; mntton eight paras an oke ; and we gave one hundred 
 paras, or four shillings, for a lamb. The island produces more than 
 sufficient grain for its own consumption, and exports the remainder, 
 as well as some wine, to Mytilene ; but its principal exports are ewe- 
 milk cheese, some silk, cotton, and wool. We saw the process of 
 making a new vineyard. It was the season for pruning the vines: 
 this is done close to the stock, leaving the old vine not more than 
 ten or twelve inches above the ground. Of the shoots of the former 
 year, they take cuttings of about three feet long, and plant them deep 
 in the ground, at the distance of a yard square from each other, wa- 
 tering each plant profusely, and leaving a little dam round it to 
 retain the moisture. The third year after planting, a vineyard is in 
 full bearing. 
 
 We were anxious to reach Athos ; and, notwithstanding the remon- 
 strances of the master of the vessel, we sailed on the 27th of March, 
 at four o'clock in the morning, with a strong breeze from the north. 
 Towards sun-rise the wind increased to a gale ; and in about half an 
 hour such a storm came on, as made our situation seem desperate : 
 we shipped three seas successively, and dreaded that the next wave 
 which might break over us would fill our undecked boat, and sink 
 us. Our little crew seemed to hesitate whether they should run be- 
 fore the wind to the island of St. George di Skyro, at sixty miles' 
 distance, or make an attempt to regain the port of Lemnos : they 
 took the latter resolution ; and after an hour and a half's tempestuous 
 tossing, we got our little bark into a creek, near the port which we 
 had left. The storm continued to increase during the whole of the 
 day, and towards noon it blew a perfect hurricane ; we therefore 
 walked over to Castro, and were accommodated with a room, in a 
 ruinous Khan, now converted into a school for teaching ancient 
 Greek to the boys of the island. We found the AiSda-KoiXo;, or 
 master, a well-informed man : he had received his education at 
 Joannina, in Albania, the most celebrated seminary for Greek litera- 
 
 * The oke is two pounds and three quarters.
 
 LEMNOS. 
 
 61 
 
 ture in Turkey. He had a good knowledge of history and geography, 
 but seemed indined to laugh at our eagerness to discover ancient 
 ruins or inscriptions ; saying, it seemed to him to be equally unin- 
 teresting to discover in an ancient Greek building proofs that it had 
 been erected to Jupiter or Minerva, by a certain sovereign or people, 
 as to find that an old mosque or castle had been built by a Suleyman, 
 an Achmet, a Mustapha, or any other Sultan. The progress of his 
 pupils in ancient Greek was not extraordinary : we found his head- 
 boy reading the Psalter. This schoolmaster's salary was 500 piastres, 
 nearly 401. sterling, paid by the Greek community of the island. 
 
 Next day we made a second attempt to discover the ruins of tlie 
 Labyrinth of Lemnos ; but after every possible enquiry both of 
 (Greeks and Turks, we could only hear a confused account of a sub- 
 terraneous stair-case in an uninhabited part of the island, near a bay 
 called Porniah, containing, as they said, forty steps, and a number of 
 marble columns. To this place we therefore set out; and after twenty 
 miles riding, twelve of them along the road by which we had gone 
 to Palaio Castro, we came to a bay where we saw extensive ruins of 
 an ancient and strong building that seems to have had a foss round it 
 communicating with the sea. The edifices have covered about ten 
 acres of ground : there are foundations of an amazing number of 
 small buildings within the outer wall, each about seven feet square. 
 The walls towards the sea are strong, and composed of large square 
 blocks of stone. On an elevated spot of ground in one corner of the 
 area, we found a subterraneous stair-case, and, after lighting our 
 tapers, we went down it. The entrance was difficult : it consisted of 
 fifty-one steps, and about every twelfth one was of marble, the others 
 of common stone. At the bottom is a small chamber, with a well in 
 it, by which probably the garrison was supplied : a censer, a lamp, 
 and a few matches, were lying in a corner, for the use of the Greek 
 Christians, who call this well an AyUa-jji.u, or Holy Founfahi, and the 
 ruins about it, Panagia Coccipee. The peasants in the neighbour- 
 hood hatl no knowledge of any sculpture, or statues, or medals having 
 ever been found there. I could not coincide with my companion in
 
 62 LEMNOS. 
 
 thinking that these ruins have any relation to the Labyrinth men- 
 tioned by Pliny. The place bears also the name of TlocXaio Karpo, fhc 
 Ancient Fortress, and may probably have been the citadel of the town 
 Hephtestias. 
 
 We had now traversed Lemnos in various directions, little oratified 
 either with its antiquities, or its natural scenery : lor though the 
 mountains are bold, and the valleys sometimes verdant and fertile, 
 vet the total want of wood, and even of shrubs, sives the island a 
 look of desolation and dreariness. 
 
 It is not easy to describe the mortification we felt at thus leaving 
 a place so celebrated from the fabulous ages down to the time of 
 Strabo, without our having discovered one valuable vestige of ancient 
 art. We could not ascertain the caverns where mvtholoov had 
 placed Vulcan and his Cyclops, nor could we trace one Pelasgic for- 
 tress, nor an Ionic or Doric edifice, the work of Athenian or Carian 
 colonists ; not even could an ancient medal be found in the posses- 
 sion of any of the islanders. How is this desolation to be accounted 
 for ? Have volcanoes and earthquakes been the true A'^f/.vix xaxu, 
 and destroyed that part of the island where these buildings stood? 
 
 The 1st of April the master of our boat waked us, to say that the 
 wind seemed favourable for our voyage to Mount Athos : we there- 
 fore once more embarked, though not without apprehensions that 
 the equinoctial gale was not yet over — and unfortunately we found 
 our fears too true. The wind rose with the sun, and quite against 
 us ; so that after vainly endeavouring to beat some time against it we 
 were again forced back to I^emnos, and anchored at an uninhabited 
 bay, where we could only gather a few limpets from the rocks, and a 
 few Echini or Sea Urchins. This bay was called Cas Paka. The rocks 
 which rise perpendicularly above it appear volcanic : the shore is 
 covered with pumice-stone. Towards evening the wind fell, and the 
 moon shining very bright, tempted us a third time to try the formi- 
 dable passage between Lemnos and Athos : — again, we suffered all 
 the terrors of a storm in an open boat. The waves often broke over 
 us in a most alarming manner; the high sea made the vessel pitch
 
 ATHOS. 63 
 
 SO much, that we sometimes thought the mast would go ; and at 
 other moments that the planks would start. The wind now pre- 
 vented our return to Lemnos ; and the breakers all along the iron- 
 bound coast of Athos rendered our a]:)proach to the monastery of 
 Santa Laura impossible. All the sails were now taken down, and 
 nothing but a small piece of canvas put forward to steer by ; letting 
 the wind therefore drive us, we luckily reached a little creek, at the 
 foot of the monastery of Batopaidi, on the peninsula of Athos. 
 
 CONTINUATION OF SIBTHORP'S JOURNAL. See p. 5i. line 5. 
 
 Plants on the Beach and Roclcs of Athos. — Aseenl to some (if' the Hermitages. — The Con- 
 vent of St. Paul. — Nature and Form of the Building. — Servian Monks. — Dejmrtwe 
 from Athos. — Thessalian Moimtaitis. — Anchor at Skiatho, — Greek Inscription. — 
 Nature of the Rocks of the Island. — Depredations committed bij the Albanians. — Voyage 
 continued. — Gulf of J'olo. — Shores ofNegropont. — Monastery. — Miraculous Legends. 
 — Coast if Bicotia. — Arrival at Negropont. — Fishes. — Plants. — Shells. 
 
 Oct. 4th, 1794. The continuance of the calm still prevented us 
 from quitting the peninsula of Athos. A pebbly shore rising into a 
 steep rock of primitive marble, on which appeared a variety of curious 
 plants, made me impatient to land. I could discover from our vessel 
 Erica multiflora in full. flower empurpling spots of the rock. On 
 landing, I found near the beach the beautiful sea-lily. Pancratium 
 maritimum. The Arbutus Andrachne grew on the hangino- cliifs on 
 which I gathered from low procumbent shrubs specimens of Globu- 
 laria alypum, and under its shade, entwined by the rough smilax, 
 the sweet-scented coronilla: on the more exposed and steeper j)art of 
 the rocks orew the wild cabbage, of whose leaves our sailors gathered 
 large quantities to boil with Sta4ielina Chamaspeuce, and Conyza 
 Candida. From the beach we ascended by a flight of marble steps to 
 a cluster of liermitages belonging to the monastery of St. Paul : these 
 are called I,xu9ioe. ; and in one of them we found a caloyer that had 
 been four-and-twenty years on ^Vthos ; who addressed us with a rap-
 
 (34 ATHOS. 
 
 tuie of joy in English : he was a native of Epirus ; had been seven 
 years a sailor in our fleet ; tired with the fatigues and danger of the 
 sea, he sought a retreat in this delightful spot : he was not, however, 
 consuminji his time in the indolence of monastic life : we found 
 him very busy in manufacturing a coarse kind of woollen cloak, for 
 which Athos is famous. His hermitage was exceedingly neat, and 
 consisted of a hall and two rooms ; before his door was an arbour en- 
 twined by a vine from which hung rich chisters of purple grapes ; a 
 garden formed on the pending rock furnished a plentiful supply of 
 kitchen herbs and esculent fruits. With a gratified look, he said, 
 " This is all mine." He commanded from his arbour a fine view of 
 the sea, which afforded a constant subject of meditation to one who 
 had been tossed about for seven years on its uncertain waves. Our 
 stock of provisions being nearly exhausted from the length of our 
 stay at Athos, we visited the convent of St. Paul, where Nicholas 
 Andrea, our Epirote hermit, said we could obtain a fresh supply. 
 The way which led from these skathia to the monastery was along 
 the ridge of the mountain through a beautiful shrubbery of Kermes 
 oaks mixed with Arbutus and Andrachne. Those trees now laden 
 with ripe fruit made a most beautiful appearance, and with the 
 smooth polished bark, and shining laurel-like leaves of the Andrachne, 
 were highly ornamental. We descended the rock by a precipice 
 which led into a wide valley formed by a torrent bed : we observed 
 among the large blocks of marble hui'led down from the mountain, 
 the narrow-leaved Epilobiuni, and the Pinaster. Passing the torrent 
 bed we ascended another rock, which led us to the romantic site of 
 the monastery of St. Paul, about two miles distant from its skathia. 
 A wild looking caloyer with a large club appeared as the porter, and 
 conducted us up stairs through, a gloomy chamber to the Hegou- 
 menos, who received us with hospitable kindness. While the dinner 
 was preparing, we had leisure to examine the monastery : it was one 
 of those ancient buildings which the writers of romance would have 
 been happy to have copied : it was consecrated as a spot visited by 
 St. Paul in his journey in Macedonia. The building was large and
 
 ATHOS. 
 
 65 
 
 massive, but there appeared little regularity in its form. It was sur- 
 rounded by balconies ; a refectory in which the caloyers assembled 
 was the best sized room ; here was a wooden pulpit, like the reading 
 desk in our halls at Oxford, and large oak tables along the side ; one 
 of these was covered with pewter porringers, in which the scanty and 
 miserable fare of the caloyers was measured out. The chapel was 
 small, and some few figures of saints, done in the earlier ages of the 
 Greek church, ornamented the walls. We mounted up several stories ; 
 at the top of these, we passed to a tower of considerable height : it 
 had from neglect fallen into decay ; the stairs were broken, and the 
 floors and partition walls gone : here, as our Hegoumcnos informed 
 us, was the very dwelling-place of St. Paul. The entrance to this 
 tower was secured by a strong iron door, and under it was a deep 
 well, a reservoir of good water. The roof of the convent was covered 
 with lead, but its timbers and floors so decayed, that we trod with a 
 kind of fearful caution. The whole building showed either a want of 
 funds or the proper application of them to its support. It was a Ser- 
 vian foundation ; but the oppression of Servia by the Turks cut it off 
 from the supplies which the first founders hoped it would receive. 
 The store-rooms of these caloyers oflfered to our view scenes very 
 different from what the well-supplied cellars of our convents 
 would have afforded before their dissolution. We saw onlv a few 
 skins with oil, bfigs of flour, and dried fishes. Some of the caloyers 
 were busy in cutting into slices melongena and tomatoes to dry ; these, 
 with preserved olives, furnish a winter provision for the convent. 
 When dinner was ready, we went into a room furnished with a divan 
 in the Turkish fashion, and were first served with a dish of mush- 
 rooms stewed in oil ; some turnip radishes were brought in at the 
 same time, both of an oblong and orbicular form ; to these, succeeded 
 an omlet composed of eggs, with cheese, parsley, and butter : the 
 concluding dish was a pilau, with a dessert of grapes and honey, which 
 was of a brown colour, and had a heathy flavour. The caloyers here 
 were Servians ; and our Hegoumenos informed us the library con- 
 tained several Servian manuscripts. 
 
 VOL. II. K
 
 66 
 
 COAST OF THESSALY. 
 
 The monastery of St. Paul is distant only five hours from the sum- 
 mit of Mount Athos. I was informed that the road was so rocky, and 
 the precipices so steep, that the mules could not convey me there. 
 My botanical ardour strongly pressed me to visit it : I had before 
 ascended it from Laura, and noticed some of its plants ; but I promised 
 myself from this excursion an additional harvest ; and though I had 
 suffered so much from the heat of the day on our return from the 
 convent of St. Paul, I formed the plan of executing this scheme, in 
 case our vessel was detained. The hermitages of St. Ann were on 
 the road, and about half-way was a chapel of the Panagia where I 
 could repose. On arriving at our vessel, the boat had procured us a 
 plentiful supply of fish, and one of our sailors had dived, and brought 
 up for me a pinna : it contained within its shell two shrimp-like 
 animals : these were probably the watchful cancri so beautifully de- 
 scribed by Oppian. 
 
 Qct. 5. — At one in the morning, a light breeze springing up, we 
 teered across the gulf of Athos : we continued our course slowly 
 towards Scopelo ; and at sunset we were about thirteen leagues 
 to the S. W. of Cape Drepano : Olympus and the Thessalian moun- 
 tains appeared very distinct. 
 
 Oct. 6. — Our cabin was small and offensive from the smell of the 
 bilge water ; and the vermin swarming in every part of it, I pre- 
 ferred sleeping in my bed-gown on the deck. During the night, we 
 had a very heavy dew which I found, in the morning, had made 
 my upper blanket quite wet : our sailors protected themselves from 
 these dews by a thick brown coarse woollen cloak with a hood to it. 
 As we advanced in the morning, we saw distinctly the mountains of 
 Thessaly, Elympo, Kissavo, and Zagora, formerly known by the 
 renowned names of Olympus, Ossa, and Pelion. At sunset, the 
 wind freshened, and for two hours it blew hard from the south ; at 
 eio-ht A. M. it sunk. We were at a short distance from the coast 
 of Thessaly, and could distinguish the solitary light of a monastery, 
 or Kelli, on the nearest mountain. 
 
 S'
 
 SKIATHO. 
 
 67 
 
 Oct. 7. — At sunrise, we were not more than six leagues distant 
 from Skiatho : we ran along its northern shore which was rocky, but 
 indented with bays towards Castro, or the town, singularly situated 
 upon a precipice projecting into the sea. We sent out our boat to 
 make enquiries respecting the pirates. Near the shore was a small 
 Albanian guard keeping watch on the mountain : they fired a musket, 
 and we hailed them from our vessel. We dropped anchor in a fine 
 port on the south side of the island. The scenery was beautiful and 
 striking ; a bay, nearly circular, with islets interspersed in it ; the 
 shore formed by rough rocks covered with mastic, and a warm vale, 
 with a south-east exposure, planted with vines. On the eastern 
 point rose the village consisting of a few houses irregularly scattered 
 over the rock, and a new church on the more elevated height. We 
 went on shore, and found that the village had about a month since 
 been burned by banditti : a number of Albanians, as guards, were 
 dispersed in it, and the frightened inhabitants had scarcely more than 
 a month returned to their ruined dwellings : the women still expressed 
 much fear in their countenances, and were extremely reserved : they 
 would scarcely suffer us to enter their houses, and our enquiries for 
 provision met with little success. We with difficulty procured some 
 eggs and grapes. The wine, the principal produce of the island, 
 was all new, and the inhabitants were now busily engaged in their 
 vintage. We had heard that there was a fragment of antiquity in 
 the church : we went to visit it, and found an inscribed stone which 
 formed the pedestal of the communion table. The Papas who gave 
 us admittance seemed extremely unwilling that we should see it : he 
 first denied it was there ; at length he was induced, with reluctance, 
 to show it, but violently opposed our taking a copy * ; at last we pre- 
 vailed over his scruples. Our ignorant Papas could neither read nor 
 understand it : he had, however, sufficient cunning to teach the su- 
 perstitious islanders that it was something sacred and mysterious. 
 
 • The inscription is published from Mr. Hawkins's copy in the first volume of this 
 work. 
 
 K 2
 
 68 
 
 SKIATHO. 
 
 Near the village were the ruins of an ancient cliurch containing four 
 sarcophagi. From tliis spot, I wandered among tiie rocks whicli 
 were composed of a fine grained saline marble, of a snowy whiteness, 
 covered with Lentisc mixed with the Daphne Gnidium, which, bear- 
 ing at the same time its flowers and fruit, made a gay appearance. 
 The mastic retained, in sound, the ancient name S^'/vo, but the (ini- 
 dium was now called L<pXofjt.i. The C!aper bush, K(x,Tnra.^ig, hung from 
 the rocks ; and on the more exposed parts near the sea, among the 
 mastics, rose the Sea-quill with a long naked scapus loaded with ripe 
 seed. The Erigeron graveolens, daov'^a, flowered near the beach, 
 which was a coarse calcareous breccia. 
 
 Oct. 8. — The wind being still contrary, we remained at Skiatho : 
 in the afternoon, we climbed a high hill, on the south side of the 
 island, to the east of our port, covered with Pinasters mixed with 
 Arbutus, Myrtles, and Andrachnes. The whole region had been 
 lately burned by some Albanian incendiaries who had set fire to the 
 olive grounds, which had spread and consumed almost the whole 
 southern side of the island. The vicinity to the main land of Greece 
 brings many an unwelcome visitor to it, and keeps the inhabitants in 
 continual alarm. We heard, near the summit of the hill, the tinkling 
 of the bell of the goats ; but our appearance being discovered by the 
 herdsman, he precipitately drove his flock down the steep, and, with 
 vociferations of fear, pressed them towards the village. The Erica 
 multiflora, a grateful flower to the bee, diffused its odour, which, 
 with some aromatic plants, were scattered over the hills : the Thym- 
 bra of the ancients, Qfoujcri, and the Thyme, ou^ap-, were in seed. Mixed 
 with these were the thorny plants of the prickly broom, and a species 
 of Spartium which consisted of a mass of thorns, called lx"'°'^o^'- In 
 the ravine formed by the torrent bed from the mountain, some 
 flourishing trees of the Cretan maple had escaped the flame. The 
 sky was tolerably clear, and we commanded a fine prospect from the 
 summit of the hill : on one side, we saw Athos distinctly ; on the 
 other, the eye stretched over Euboea, and had a distant view bounded 
 by Parnassus, and discriminated clearly the outline of Scopelo. The
 
 SKIATHO. 
 
 69 
 
 rock which composed the hill was of glimmer slate; of a grey, fine- 
 grained saline marble, and that beautiful snow-white variety which I 
 had observed in my walk the preceding day. 
 
 Oct. 9. — As the season was so far advanced, and we had been 
 considerably detained in our route by the southerly winds, calms, 
 and the fear of pirates, we determined to proceed to Athens. The 
 wind was now north, but it blew too fresh for us to venture out to 
 sea. In the afternoon I walked to a shallow fresh-water lake on the 
 west of our port ; it afforded nothing to gratity my botanical re- 
 searches. On the mud of it grew the Salicornia herbacea, and 
 thickets of the Agnus Castus, a common plant throughout Greece. The 
 shore presented nothing to amuse the conchologist : a few cockle- 
 shells and spiny oysters were all I could find. On our return to our 
 vessel we observed a number of swallows, which seemed to be col- 
 lecting for their migration. 
 
 Oct. ] 0. — The north wind continued blowina; haixl through the 
 day. I walked in the afternoon across the island, and found the soil 
 in general thin, covering rocks of glimmer slate : the mastic the pre- 
 dominant tree, with kermes oak, Phillyrea, olives, Spanish and 
 prickly broom, with a thick thorny species of Spartium ; the tree and 
 many flowery heath, with Daphne Gnidium. I observed in the ex- 
 posed part the prickly Acanthus with Cnicus Acarna, Carlina corym- 
 bosa and Scolymus Hispanicus : the vales and declivities cultivated 
 with vines, which on the northern side were frequently accompanied 
 with habitations. I saw no cattle, except asses : the flocks of sheep 
 and goats seemed few. With tlifficulty we procured a meagre kid at 
 a very high price ; the islanders were anxious to increase their stock, 
 which had been greatly injured by the late plunderers, and imwil- 
 lingly parted with any thing. The island is of \ery irregular shape, 
 and is said to be about thirty-six miles in circuit : it has two towns, 
 and is supposed to contain about five hundred houses. The vine- 
 yai'ds form its principal support : we were plentifully supplied with 
 grapes of a good quality, and found some excellent melons.
 
 •jQ COAST 01- THESSALY. 
 
 Qq^^ 11. — Preparations had been made the preceding evening for 
 our departure ; the boys had tied the sails with rush, or l3oupXcc'*, a 
 plentiful supply of which grew on the shore near the lake (Juncus 
 acutus). Early in the morning we weighed anchor ; at sunrise we 
 left the small island of Pondiconesi ; about a league to the southward, 
 we opened the gulf of Volo, the celebrated Pelasgian gulf; on a 
 hill above we saw the town of Trichiri ; the sea was now straightened 
 by the land, having the northern coast of Negropont on our left, and 
 that of Thessaly, with the gulf of Volo, on our right. The coast 
 of NegTopont, at first rocky and uncultivated, sunk into the rich vale of 
 Oros : we saw distinctly with our glasses the walls of an ancient town, 
 Syrochoro : having passed Cape Stavros, we sailed by the small bar- 
 ren islands of Argyronesi : the coast of Thessaly appeared high, 
 rough, and barren : as we opened the gulf of Zeitun we saw some 
 cultivated spots, and observed a town obscurely at a distance from 
 the coast. From the vale of Oros rose the rocks of Vlicada ; having 
 turned the north-west point of Negropont, we sailed by the islands of 
 Vlicada : the inbat carried us gently down the straits : we saw upon 
 the hills some vineyards, and corn-land dotted over with wild pear- 
 trees, and the town of Vlicada screened by a rock : opposite to us 
 was the bold shore of Thessaly, with the famous pass of Thermopylae, 
 Oeta, and a ridge of mountains on the back ground. In the evening 
 we anchored opposite to a small dilapidated monastery, surrounded 
 by a grove of olive and pine trees, a mile distant from Vlicada, dedi- 
 cated to St. George ; here miracles, it was said, were still performed ; 
 a taper was burnt to the Saint ; and we were told by our sailors, that 
 if the man who had the care of it suffered it to go out, he would be 
 punished with blindness ; and that if any one cut of the wood which 
 composed the sacred grove, he would either die or cut himself with 
 the instrument he made use of. f The straits of Negropont are here 
 
 * See Du C. in v. /SpuAov. 
 
 f The reader will recollect the passage in Lucan, 1. 3, 
 
 Motique verenda 
 Majestate loci, si robora sacra ferirent. 
 In sua credebant redituras membra secures. — E.
 
 SHORES OF GREECE. 71 
 
 scarcely a league in breadth ; and a phoca, or sea-calf, passed by our 
 vessel swimming from one shore to the other. 
 
 Oct. 12. — Having filled our casks with brackish water from a 
 small spring near the beach, we weighed anchor at sunrise, and with, 
 a fair wind proceeded down the gulf The shore of Negropont rose 
 bold and rocky, covered with low shrubs, and dotted with the soft 
 light green of the Finns pinea. We passed by Yalta, about six miles 
 distant from Vlicada ; near the shore was Lipso, and about a mile 
 above it, we were told, were thermae * or warm baths : the coast 
 was now mountainous, rough, and naked, and offered only the so- 
 litary site of some monastery : about seven miles from Lipso was a 
 convent dedicated to St. .John, and another about a mile from it, con- 
 secrated to St. Elias : then followed among barren rocky lands, the 
 towns of Robi and Lymni, and another monastery under the protec- 
 tion of St. Nicholas. A chain of mountainous land formed the op- 
 posite coast of Boeotia, which rising gradually, left a narrow tract of 
 cultivated ground along the beach. Above those mountains, Par- 
 nassus reared its lofty naked many-headed summit : along the shore 
 we first saw Architza ; then, on a low elevation, close to the sea, ap- 
 peared the ruins of a town called Levana; under the mountains, 
 about six miles distant from these ruins, we saw Talanda embosomed 
 in trees. The Opuntian gulf now opened, and the island of Ta- 
 landa appeared in view: opposite to it, on the coast of Boeotia, were 
 some Salines, where salt was collected. Leaving the Opuntian gulf, 
 we passed by Larymnes ; then a small island not laid down in the 
 maps : somewhat lower down another, named Manetta ; this is pro- 
 bably the island marked in Faden's map as Gaithronesi. We ob- 
 served with our glasses the ruins of a castle upon it. Below^ Manetta 
 was a low tract of land running into the straits called Gaithouri : the 
 water near it is very shallow, and our sailors assured us that close to 
 the shore were to be seen the remains of buildings : behind it was 
 
 * Probably the spot mentioned in Plutarch. Symp. iv, L. Ques. 3. t^j Eu/So/afo 
 raX>)4f05, ou Ta hfiJ.a. — E.
 
 72 NEGROPONT. 
 
 the high land of" Kt>^io. We discovered from our vessel mandras 
 (sheep-iblds) upon it, and descending farther down the straits, we 
 saw Politico. The huge mountain of Delphis rose with a naked trun- 
 cated summit high above the rest ; and as we continued our course, 
 dolphins played around our vessel. Our Carabokyri, who was no 
 Arion, whistled to them. We were now before the fortress of Cara- 
 baba, and dropped anchor at seven in the. evening at Egripo or 
 Negropont. 
 
 Oct. 13. -— Our vessel was obliged to haul down its mast to pass 
 the bridge of Negropont : it has five arches ; adjoins a fort which, 
 with a drawbridge, connects the town and island of Egripo with the 
 continent of Greece. We sent our servants early on shore in the 
 morning for provisions : they brought back, with other things, dif- 
 ferent sorts offish, Luphari, (Perca Lophari,) Red mullet, Barbouni, 
 and two sorts of Spari ; one I suppose to be the Erythrinus of the 
 Greeks : it is now called Lythrinari, or Rythrinari *, the Coral fish, 
 from its red colour, and in Turkish Mertzan ; the other I suspect to 
 be the Dentex of Linnseus, the Synagris of the Greeks, now Syna- 
 grida, and Mouskada. We landed on the quay, which was very 
 much out of repair. I observed the Sertularia halecina attached to 
 the stones in the water. On the return of our servants we went on 
 shore. The town of Egripo is composed of narrow streets, and ap- 
 peared thinly inhabited. We walked about a mile along the shore to 
 the north of the town. The rock was composed of Serpentine stone, 
 traversed with Asbestos and Steatite : we picked up several shells. 
 We had formerly collected here some crystals of magnetical iron ore; 
 at present we searched in vain without discovering the least traces of 
 it. The Charadrius Spinosus was running along the shore. The 
 rock was thinly covered with soil ; but Passerina hirsuta, which was 
 now in flower, grew on it in great abundance, koXXx-^cutx, with the 
 two asphodels, fistulosus, and ramosus : goats' rue, Peganum Har- 
 mala, was also very common, with a species of Euphorbia, and the 
 
 * See the Schol. on Oppian, L. I. Hal. v. 97- Javfloi t lpu87voi. — \u6pivapia is the ex- 
 planation given. — E.
 
 NEGROPONT. 73 
 
 Thyme of the ancients. On our return from our walk, our vessel 
 had passed the bridge, and we were obliged to walk' round the fortress, 
 to the south of the town, to arrive at it. In the outskirts, Physalis 
 somnifera, with its coral red seeds in their inflated calyces, made a 
 pretty appearance. As we passed by some Turkish cemeteries, we 
 noticed graves made gay with a covering of the Amaryllis lutea, 
 which had been planted there probably by some friend of the de- 
 ceased. The distinction of rank is preserved in Turkey even after 
 death ; and the capitals of the tomb-stones were cut into various forms 
 marking the situation of life, and character of the deceased. The 
 fortress was of considerable extent, with a deep foss : from the walls 
 of it Capparis spinosa grew in great abundance, and near it some 
 plants of Salsola fruticosa. No place in the world seems, from its 
 situation, to lay so fair a claim to commercial advantages as Egripo ; 
 but a little Hydriote vessel or two were all we observed in its harbour. 
 On our return on board, we found tlie bottom of the main-mast, 
 which was made of the silver fir, so completely decayed, that our 
 carabokyri was obliged to call in the assistance of a ship-carpenter : 
 this detained us the whole day at Egripo. In the afternoon, I landed 
 in our boat, and walked along the shore on the west of the town on 
 the continent of Greece. I saw here no traces of the serpentine 
 rock : a grqy limestone formed the hill, which gradually sloped to- 
 wards the sea. Among the rocks, I observed several stones pierced 
 by pholades, which they inhabited jointly with crabs and sea onisci. 
 Some of these crabs were so little, that they tenanted the deserted 
 shells of Voluta tornata *, and a small species of Medusa, with purplish 
 green tentacula was fixed so close to the rocks, that I separated it 
 with difficultv. A clustered Sertularia and Tubularia Acetabulum ad- 
 hered to the shells of Cardium echinatum : the Fucus pavonius was 
 also common in the harbour ; and I scraped from the rocks under 
 water a small brown Conferva : the Conferva rupestris I found on 
 
 • Qu. Toinatilis ? 
 VOL. 11, L
 
 74 COAST OF BCEOTIA. 
 
 the keel of our vessel : it was called by our sailors Malia. I observed 
 the same plants I had noticed to the north of the town, with the ad- 
 dition of the sea Squill which was in flower, and the Cichorium 
 spinosum ; Verbascum Tournefortii and Phloniis fruticosa both in 
 seed. The Alcedo hispida flew along the shore : this, then, must be 
 considered among the birds that frequent the sea-coast. A prodigious 
 number of Jackdaws, Kx^ya, inhabited the walls of the fortress, and 
 were very clamorous. When I returned on board, I found our mast 
 repaired, and at sunset we weighed anchor, and proceeded down the 
 straits. From the port in which we lay under the fortress, the sea 
 seemed entirely inclosed by the land. The current here changed 
 very much ; and we had noticed it three times in the course of the 
 day. It was now in our favour, and we proceeded with a light breeze ; 
 and in something more than an hour, our carabokyri ran us aground 
 on the shore of Bceotia opposite to Vathi, and soon after cast anchor. 
 The Greeks are, in general, timid sailors ; and it is almost impossible 
 to prevent them from anchoring during the night, except when they 
 are in the middle of the ocean. 
 
 Oct. 14. — A light breeze from the west springing up before sun- 
 rise, we weighed anchor. Above Carysto rose, to a considerable 
 height, the mountain of Elias. From the plains of Leucada, on the 
 opposite coast of Boeotia, the country was broken into low hills with 
 cultivated plains, and several towns were interspersed. We now 
 sailed along the shore of Attica, rough, mountainous, and dotted with 
 the Pinus pinea. On a projecting point, we discovered some ancient 
 ruins called by our sailors .Tavro Castro, perhaps the site of the 
 ancient llhamnus ; then followed the cape and bay of Agia Marina : 
 the bay was a remarkably fine one. A wind from the north-east now 
 sprung up, and at sunset we were between the main land of Attica 
 and Macron esi. A small boat came off from the latter with some goat- 
 herds, who informed us, that the preceding day a corsair had taken a 
 great vessel : our captain's eyes now pierced every creek ; and a con- 
 siderable alarm arose on seeing two small vessels in the port of 
 Therico. This part of the shore of Attica is extremely well supplied
 
 COAST OF ATTICA. 75 
 
 with harbours : our carabokyri enumerated them in the following 
 order: Dragona, Rafti, Thaskalio, Mavro Mazzine, Agio Nicholas, 
 Therico, Ergasteri *, Mandria, and last of all, nearest to Cape Co- 
 lonna, Scouria, probably so called from the Scoria of the ancient 
 silver mines of Attica, which were principally worked here, and 
 traces of which we had seen in a former tour. In the dusk of 
 the evening, v.'e passed the celebrated Cape, and through a dim light 
 distinguished the columns of the beautiful temple of Minerva Sunias; 
 and turning round the promontory with a side-wind, we kept between 
 the shore of Attica and the small island of Gaidaronesi : we were 
 again alarmed, discovering a light coming out from the Cape : our 
 candle was extinguished, that it might not direct the pirate to 
 pursue us. 
 
 Oct. 15. — We dropped anchor at noon in the Port of the Piraeus. 
 
 EXTRACT 
 
 raoM THE 
 
 JOURNAL OF THE LATE DR. SIBTHORP, 
 
 BELATING TO 
 
 PARTS OF THE ANCIENT ELIS, ARCADIA, ARGOLIS, LACONIA, MESSENIA, 
 AND THE ISLANDS ON THE WESTERN SHORES OF GREECE. 
 
 Departure from Zanfe. — Arrival at the Harbour of Pyrgo in the Morea. — Alaitns of 
 Banditti. — Soil. — Plants. — Pyrgo. — Greek Physicians. — Lalla. — Military Ap- 
 pearance and Character- of the Lalliotes. — Deveri. — Scenery of Arcadia. — Tripotamo. 
 
 . Arrival at Tripolizza. — Visit to the Pasha. — Argos. 
 
 February 26. 1795. — We embarked at Zante from the Mole, and 
 with the wind in our favour, after a short but pleasant passage, an- 
 chored in something less than an hour in the harbour of Pyrgo, in 
 
 • The word Ergasteri has also a reference to the mines once worked in this spot. 
 
 L 2
 
 76 ELIS. 
 
 the ancient Elis. We proceeded from our boat along a sandy beach 
 covered with the shells of the Area Glycymeris and Cardium edule, 
 mixed with the spoils of other testacea, to the convent of the Pa- 
 nagia, about an hour's distance from the landing place. We found 
 there few inhabitants ; -and the convent, whatever were its revenues, 
 bore no marks of opulence : the frequent but unwelcome visits of the 
 Turks and the fear of banditti kept it in constant alarm. We had 
 scarcely laid ourselves down to repose, when we heard the firing of 
 guns. A hut in the village, a few paces from the convent, consisting 
 of about twenty wigwams of circular form, was attacked, and the 
 first villager who came to its assistance was wounded witii small 
 shot. Every body was immediately under arms ; and the alarm 
 being given, the robbers made off with only some inconsiderable 
 booty. 
 
 Feb. 27. — We waited in the morning expecting horses from 
 Pyrgo. A caloyer attended me in a herborisation, and furnished me 
 with the Greek names and the medicinal and superstitious uses of 
 nearly 200 plants. Among the rocks composed of sandstone, abound- 
 ing with petrifactions, in which the exuviee of the greater Scallop and 
 other pectines were very evident, we gathered the Globularia Alypum, 
 highly ornamental with its lively blue flower : the Ricinus palma 
 Christi grew by the walls of the convent. At the edges of the garden 
 flowered the Iris tuberosa ; and we observed also crops of flax, objects 
 of ancient cultivation in Elis. The Flora, though rich in the number 
 of vernal flowers, was not so far advanced as at Zante. The amorous 
 thrill of the green finch was now heard distinctly. The little owl 
 hooted frequently round the walls of the convent. In the river below, 
 otters were frequently taken. On the sides of the banks were the 
 holes of the river crabs; and the green-backed lizard was sportino- 
 among the grass. 
 
 At noon, horses and guards arrived from the Aga of Pyrgo ; and 
 having dined upon a roasted lamb which was prepared for us by the 
 Hegoumenos, we set forwards, and traversing a rich plain of argil- 
 lacepus soil, reached Pyrgo in two hours. The depressed part of this
 
 ELIS. 
 
 77 
 
 plain was whitened over with the flowers of the Tazetta ; and our 
 guides gathered nosegays of jNIanousiiki, the name by which they dis- 
 tinguished this plant. Some marsh birds, the Curlew and the Moor 
 Buzzard flew along the plain ; and the jNIagpie, which had not yet 
 travelled so far as Zante, round the mud-built walls of the villao-es. 
 Pyrgo is situated on a low hill : the town is new, and consists of 600 
 houses. We were received in a friendly manner by Georgjiki, a steward 
 of Said Aga, chieitain of Lalla. In the evening, we visited Husam 
 Husaim, the Aga of Pyrgo. His principal favourite was a Zantiote, 
 who, having tried various trades, was become the physician of the 
 district of Pyrgo. A INIoriote physician is, as it were, the privy 
 counsellor of his Aga, and is most frequently the agent of his money 
 matters. Contracts of marriage have been sometimes conducted by 
 the mediation of these persons. A wild looking figure, but possessed 
 of considerable powers of rustic eloquence, the physician to the Ao-a 
 of Arcadia had just stopped the feuds between tv.o most powerful 
 chieftains in the Moreaby planning a marriage between their families, 
 and made them as warm friends as they had been inveterate enemies. 
 The continent of Greece is princlpall\- furnished with physicians from 
 Cephallonia ; and there is scarcely a town of note or an Agalick that 
 is not supplied with one of these adventurers. In some places, the 
 p^jysician is paid the fixed salary of so many hundred piastres from 
 the city chest : in the smaller Agalicks, he receives a certain sum 
 from the district ; that of Pyrgo consists of ten towns and villages, 
 and the physician is paid four hundred piastres ; but his profits prin- 
 cipally arise from presents, and his good offices Avith the Aga in favour 
 of malefactors. The deportment of the Turks is lofty and imposino-; 
 and the physician, from his constant attendance in the Iktle court of 
 the Aga, acquires some portion of the manner of his chieftain : to 
 this he adds a confidence to which his medical skill certainlv gives 
 him pretensions. The physician of Arcadia had been a druggist's 
 boy at Zante : he could neither read nor write : he had brought with 
 him some empirical knowledge, and was highly extolled for the mar- 
 vellous cures he had performed.
 
 73 ELIS. 
 
 Mr. Hawkins had in a former tour acquired the friendship of the 
 Aga, and he received us with marks of distinction : he proposed to 
 us a party of hunting, and promised to entertain us with an Albanian 
 dance. 
 
 Feb. 28. — I walked out with my gun, and crossed a rich plain 
 towards the sea, over a flat tract of land. The lapwing and several 
 grallae flew piping along the marsh. On the banks of the river Mi- 
 lavla, I shot a ferruginous headed duck called by our host y.oKx,ivoneipccXo. 
 I observed several water tortoises in the ponds of the pool. The 
 season appeared here at least a fortnight less advanced than at Zante. 
 Near the pools, the Salicornia grew plentifully ; and the gnats were 
 so numerous, that I do not wonder the inhabitants of the banks of 
 the Alpheus, from which we were not a mile distant, sacrificed to 
 Jupiter the Fly-driver. 
 
 March 1. — We accepted the invitation of the Aga of Pyrgo to 
 course with him : his greyhounds were of the Turkish breed, with 
 long hairy curled tails. Some village curs, collected on the way, 
 served as spaniels and finders ; and the Aga, with a long pole beating 
 the bushes, supplied the want of vivacity in his dogs. On finding 
 the hare, we crossed the plain to the village of St. George, situated 
 on a low hill covered with mastic and prickly broom. The Greek 
 frog perched on the branches of the mastic, and huge tortoises, of 
 the size of those that Pausanias (in Arcad.) describes as employed by 
 the ancient Greeks in the manufacture of musical instruments *, crept 
 under the boughs. The high ground was not abundant in game ; and 
 we started only a single hare. Changing our direction, we proceeded 
 along the banks of a small rivulet covered with Asphodels ; the water 
 hen flew frequently from under the bushes. 
 
 One of Said Aga's guards informing us of the return of his master 
 to Lalla, we determined to set out the. next morning for that place. 
 In the evening we went, accompanied by our fat host Georgaki, to 
 
 * " The ancients might take promiscuously the land or river tortoise for this purpose." 
 Phil. Trans. Ab. iv. 476. — E.
 
 ELIS. 
 
 79 
 
 take leave of Husam Husaim : we were courteously received, but 
 Husam expressed his chagrin at our leaving him so abruptly. He 
 was attended by his secretary, his physician, and a Pyrgiote. Having 
 drank coffee and smoked our pipes, Husam introduced wine ; and the 
 dragoman taking up his guitar, the physician and the Pyrgiote, warmed 
 by drinking, leaped up to a mimic dance. The doctor showed 
 considerable address with his heels, and raised them sometimes so 
 high that they reached the ears of his partner. The dance, display- 
 ing the lowest buifoonery, was applauded by the Aga, who not having 
 the fear of Mahomet before his eyes, took large draughts of wine. 
 A French clerk to a mercantile house at Corone, entered and joined 
 the dance. Georgaki now pulling off his upper tunic added himself 
 to the number, and shaking his fat sides, increased the ludicrous ap- 
 pearance of the groupe. The Aga thought we participated with him 
 in the pleasure of the dance and the music, which was accompanied 
 with Turkish songs, forcing horrid screams and hideous faces. I 
 could not help reflecting on the barbarism and ignorance that now 
 reigned over a country once the most enlightened ; and on the dif- 
 ference between these sottish orgies, and the noble games that 
 attracted the ancient states of Greece to the plains of Olympia. 
 
 j\Iarch 2. — We left Pyrgo at ten in the morning ; and travelling 
 over a rich plain, cultivated with vines, passed in about an hour by 
 Berbasina, a village belonging to Said Aga. In something less than 
 another hour we crossed the Arvoura, emptying itself into* the 
 Alpheus, which glided on our right through a rich plain enlivened 
 with a profusion of various coloured Anemonies : leaving the plain, 
 we entered a mountainous country, covered with the Sea Pine. We 
 were detained some time by the breaking down of a bridge at Cra- 
 couchi ; and from the obstinacy of our mules had considerable 
 diflficulty in fording a shallow stream that flowed along the torrent 
 bed. As we advanced towards Lalla, the size of the mountains in- 
 creased, and the Pine trees rose to a majestic height : many of them 
 were disfigured by incisions made to draw forth the turpentine. The 
 Pine added much to the beauty of the sylvan scenery, and was mixed
 
 80 FLis. 
 
 with PhlUyrea, Heath, Arbutus, Kermes oaks, and Mastic. About 
 an hour's distance, under a round hill to our right, we left Olympia, 
 purposing to visit it at a future opportunity. A rising piece of 
 ground, near a hanging pine, opposite to a verdant knowl, on which 
 were the scattered huts of Stravokephalo, afforded us a dining place. 
 It was late in the evening when we arrived at Lalla. The military 
 appearance of the house of Said Aga was striking. A number of his 
 warriors * were reposing on the Divan, when we were introduced. 
 On the entrance of Said Aga they bow before their chieftain with the 
 greatest respect. Said I'eceived us with warm hospitality. 
 
 March 3. — Said, when we visited him the next morning, was 
 seated upon a carpet that was spread in the gallery of his house, 
 which was extremely mean, as the habitation of a powerful chieftain, 
 who could lead into the field of battle upwards of a thousand armed 
 men. The room in which we slept was the principal one in the 
 house: it had not even the comfort of glass in the windows : there 
 were only wooden shutters of such rude work that they were ill 
 calculated to resist the cold winds that swept the high, exposed plain 
 of Lalla. During the day we had severe storms of snow and hail, 
 and we crowded round the hearth, whicli was warmed with a good 
 fire. We visited Mustapha, the elder brother of Said, whose house 
 was now repairing, and were received in almost an open chamber. 
 Some of the principal Lalliotes were present, whose figure and dress 
 made a most martial appearance. Mustapha had a darker and more 
 saturnine complexion than his brother Said : the latter had an open 
 countenance, and more popular manners, and was supposed to possess 
 considerable personal courage, a character for which the Lalliotes are 
 in general renowned. Said had, a few years since, with four-and-forty 
 
 * In a letter to Mr. Weninaii, Dr. Sibthorp mentions " the martial but ferocious life 
 of the Lalliotes. Lambs roasted whole are served on the table, and every one has his 
 fingers in the dish. The Laliiote is always clad in armour : when he dances he does not 
 lay aside his arms. His feet and legs are naked to the knees, which are covered with large 
 plates of silver. A breast-plate with embossed buttons protects his body. His pistols and 
 his dirk, richly ornamented, form constantly a part of his dress, being stuck in his girdle."
 
 ARCADIA. g| 
 
 of his followers, taken sixty Albanian rebels, and sent them to Tri- 
 polizza, where they were executed ; and Ali Aga, one of our party, 
 a first cousin of Said, had, about a fortnight since, cut off the head of 
 a robber, and sent his straw-stuffed scalp to the Pasha. The terror of 
 these people keeps the Morea in subjection : they were originally 
 little better than a band of robbers ; who adding to corporal strength 
 great courage, and inhabiting a country strongly fortified by. nature, 
 resisted successfully the precarious and unequal attempts to subdue 
 them. In the invasion of the Alorea, their services in repelling the 
 Russians were rewarded with the grants of the lands of the unhappy 
 Greeks : they were now increasing in opulence, which, by softening 
 the ferocity of their manners, will, perhaps, at the same time di- 
 minish that hardy courage for which these mountaineers have been 
 distinguished. 
 
 March — We set out at noon from Lalla, and in the evening 
 arrived at Deveri, five hours distant, and situated on the confines of 
 Arcadia. Leaving Lalla, we traversed a high elevated plain, or rather 
 forest of oaks, Qu. ^gilops. Many of the young trees were lopped 
 for the goats to browse on, and the beauty of the forest was sacrificed 
 to the care of the flock. The Polypody of the oak was no rarity : on 
 the faith of the ancients it was preserved for medicinal purposes : with 
 us it is seldom found growing on that tree ; but here it abounded. 
 The trunks of the oaks, besides the Polypody, furnished me with 
 some curious Lichens ; and a Boletus, whose under surface was tinged 
 with a fine violet colour. We arrived at Deveri by a mountainous 
 descent over rocks of slate covered with Kermes oak and shrubs, 
 under whose shade blossomed the starry hyacinth. The Aga had 
 sent with us a guard of four Lalliotes : the appearance of an European 
 dress was new and striking, and the peasants collected round their 
 hovels to gaze at us. We entered a low hut where we saw an aged 
 woman, who had gathered some wild herbs for her supper : among 
 them I observed the leaves of the Dock, AaVa^c : the wild Poppy ; 
 and the Charlock, XuTra-dvoc. 
 
 VOL. II. M
 
 82 ARCADIA. 
 
 March — We were detained at Deveri by waiting tor horses. 
 I walked out with my gun, ascending some high mountains whose 
 sides were covered with the silver Fir. On my return, I found the 
 Sturnus Cinclus on the banks of a rivulet fringed with willows. 
 Leaving Deveri, we descended a rocky precipice, crossed a stream, 
 and proceeded along a narrow glen, walled in by high mountains 
 covered with forest trees ; and from the sides of which issued forth 
 cascades and purling rills. 
 
 The season was not sufficiently advanced at present to exhibit this 
 sylvan scenery in its full ornament. The dead leaves which hung 
 upon the oaks, and the tops of the brooms, and other plants, were 
 cropped by the goats. The violet and primrose flowered under the 
 hedges. The vegetation was still backward : the pear tree, which in 
 Elis we had left in flower, scarcely yet opened its blossoms. * The 
 early almond was covered with its rosy bloom. Winding along a 
 narrow rocky road we arrived, in three hours, at Tripotamo : a junction 
 of two clear streams here formed three branches. That this remark- 
 able situation had not escaped the notice of the ancients was evident 
 from the ruins which we saw on its banks. These were fringed by 
 huge Plane trees and Sallows, whose yellow catkins were now inter- 
 mixed with the lively green of the tender leaf. We crossed a stone 
 bridge of a single arch, and traversing a rich plain, occasionally inter- 
 rupted by a mountainous tract of wooded land, in four hours arrived 
 at Xeropotamo. About a mile to our right, was a high mountain 
 called Carsi. In half an hour from Xeropotamo, we arrived at the 
 banks of the Alpheus, which ran violently with its muddy stream 
 along a I'ocky bed, and sometimes overflowing its banks, fertilised the 
 bordering plain. Indian corn was the principal object of cultivation. 
 Over the Alpheus was a bridge. Our road now lay through wooded 
 scenery and a well watered country. It was said to be frequently in- 
 fested by robbers ; and we were shown pits, in which they occasionally 
 
 * The " cold and heavy" climate of many of the cantons of Arcadia is mentioned by 
 Polybius, L, iv. 31.— E.
 
 • ARCADIA. g^ 
 
 concealed themselves for the purpose of attacking the travelling mer- 
 chant. It was late in the evening before we reached the khan destined 
 for our lodging. We had frequent showers during the day, and 
 towards the evening, settled rain ; so that we arrived wet and cold. 
 The khan presented to us a most comfortless aspect : a long chamber 
 was lighted by the door-way, and a window pierced with numerous 
 crevices ; and the failure of the stairs made the ascent both hazardous 
 and difficult. 
 
 March — The guard furnished by Said Aga now took their 
 leave, not before we were heartily tired of their company. Like 
 savages, they wanted every thing they saw, and frequently disturbed 
 us with their intrusive impertinence. We made them an offer of 20 
 piastres : this they refused with disdain ; and we were obliged to add 
 to our present. Near our khan flowed a rivulet which abounded 
 with trout : they were caught in the summer season with Cocculus 
 Indicus, called ^xfoiSoToivi, which was sold for this purpose in the 
 bazar of Tripolizza. Leaving the khan, we entered the pass of Dara, 
 and having travelled about three hours, left a lake a mile to our left. 
 Proceeding over some rocky ground covered with low wood (under 
 which the vernal crocus was blowing), we crossed the plain of Lebetha, 
 The plough was now preparing the ground to receive the Indian 
 corn, and turned up a rich loamy soil. 
 
 March 10. — Signor Marco, a Cephallonian, who was the city phy- 
 sician, waited on us at Tripolizza ; and we arranged with liim the 
 plan of visiting the Pasha. Our consul, Strani, had sent us a letter 
 of introduction ; and we carried one also from the dragoman of the 
 Porte to the dragoman of Tripolizza. We proceeded to the palace 
 of Mustapha Pasha ; and having first presented ourselves to the 
 dragoman, and delivered him our papers, we were introduced to the 
 Cacayabe, or prime minister of Mustapha. He received us with 
 much politeness, sitting upon his divan in great state. From the 
 Cacayabe's we proceeded through a long gallery to the Vizier, by 
 whom we were also received in the most affable manner : we were 
 invited to sit near him upon the divan, and were presented with 
 
 M 2
 
 84 ARCADIA. 
 
 cortee and sweetmeats. Mustapha, Pasha of the Morea, who is now 
 about 50 years of" age, has had the good fortune, from being a Georgian 
 slave, to arrive at this high distinction. Being taken to Constantinople, 
 he was brought up in the seraglio : was made a Pasha of three tails ; 
 and, being a favourite, was married by the Grand Signor to his sister. 
 His various attendants and officers are said to amount to a thousand 
 persons. We had scarcely left the room of the Vizier, when numbers 
 of them crowded round Signor Marco, and desired not to be for- 
 gotten : we sent our servant to distribute some money among them : 
 in the evening the city musicians came for their Backshish, 
 
 March 11. — We made an excursion to Palaiepiscopi, the ancient 
 Tegea, about five miles to the south of Tripolizza. A church of the 
 early Greek architecture was built of brick, intermixed with the ruins 
 of ancient temples ; among which we observed some inscriptions. 
 Several excavations had lately been made to supply materials for a 
 new mosque that had been erected at Tripolizza. Pieces of columns 
 were scattered over the plain. The rain which had fallen very heavily 
 during the night continued the greater part of the morning ; and pre- 
 vented our further investigation : but the appearance of the ruins 
 promised a productive field of research to the antiquary. Nothing, 
 however, remained of that temple described by Pausanias as the most 
 beautiful in the Peloponnesus. The plough was now furrowing up its 
 foundation ; and green corn, among which flowered the Leontice, 
 covered its ancient site. 
 
 ■ March 13. — We went in the morning to take leave of our friend 
 the dragoman ; when the Cacayabe, hearing that we were there, de- 
 sired to see us. We were received in the most gracious manner ; and 
 understanding that we were going to Argos, he ordered us to be fur- 
 nished with horses at the Pasha's expense. We declined the offer, 
 from the idea that it would occasion an Avania on some poor Greek : 
 the Cacayabe insisted on it ; and I had the pleasure of learning from 
 Signor Marco that these horses were really paid for out of the Pasha's 
 purse. While we were drinking coffee with the Cacayabe, the 
 windows being opened, some swallows entered and flew round the
 
 ARCADIA. 85 
 
 room. These birds arrive at the same time with the stork ; and if we 
 may credit the observations of the modern Greeks, are even brought 
 on the wings of these birds. How far this is true I know not ; but 
 a merchant at Zante, whose veracity I have no reason to suspect, 
 assured me that in an early morning walk to the Acroterion, or pro- 
 montory, near the town, he observed the approaches of a large white 
 bird, which was covered with smaller ones ; and that as soon as it came 
 near to the shore, he saw the small birds take wing and fly away. On 
 our return home we were struck with the beauty of a remarkable fine 
 steed, that was carrying water through the streets. He had been the 
 favourite horse of the Pasha, but started one day while he was 
 riding, and his turban falling off, the Pasha considered this as a bad 
 omen, and punished the animal by degrading him to the office of 
 water carrier. Though we had already given money to the servants 
 of the Cacayabe and Vizier, we were beset again by the hungry satel- 
 lites of the court ; among the foremost of them was the buffoon of 
 tiie Vizier. We felt very desirous to rid ourselves of their trouble- 
 some intrusion, and having taken leave of Signor JNIarco, who over- 
 whelmed us with compliments, and added a hope that his services 
 might be made known to the nation, we mounted our horses. The 
 street was lined at our departure with female figures : among the 
 youngest were some pretty faces ; but the decay of beauty in Greece, 
 from the warmth of the climate and relaxation of the bath, is very 
 rapid. Leaving Tripolizza, we crossed a fertile plain ; and having 
 passed along a dry river bed on our right, we entered on a rough 
 mountainous country, whose surface was covered with the thorny 
 plants of the prickly spurge, the barnet, and the broom. We de- 
 scended from this tract by a steep paved road cut out of the rock. 
 On our left were the ruins of an ancient town, called by our guides 
 Palaiomycle, in a high and almost inaccessible situation. About three 
 hours from Tripolizza, we descended into a fruitful plain, and in about 
 an hour more, found ourselves in a miserable khan. The rjoom that 
 had been accustomed to receive the weary traveller was now un- 
 tenantable : the tiles were off the roof. We descended into a kitchen,
 
 86 ARGOLIS. 
 
 but it was so pierced with air holes that we in vain attempted to keep 
 our candle lighted. We retired into an adjoining chamber, where 
 onions hanging in festoons formed the ornaments ; and here we 
 passed the niglit. A couple of guards, whom we met on the road, 
 came to this place to spend a few paras, which we had given them. 
 They lamented to us, in pathetic language, the severity of the 
 Charatch, and the oppression of the Turks. 
 
 March 14. — We left our weather-beaten khan, and by a rough 
 mountainous road continued our journey towards Argos. The 
 country was barren, thinly wooded, and afforded some prickly shrubs 
 for the goats to browse on : among these were interspersed Cretaiv 
 maples, and the Kermes oak, with scattered trees of arbutus, and a 
 few andrachnes, which now began to open their flowers. We had a 
 fine view of the bay of Argos, its island, the watch-tower, and port of 
 Nauplia. Descending into the plain, we seemed to have passed into 
 a new climate : the corn which grew rank in the rich soil was ready 
 to produce its spikes ; and a number of vernal plants were now flower- 
 ing under its shelter. We passed a stream, the Kephalo, whose banks 
 were decked with asphodels ; and after five hours' ride we arrived at 
 Argos. 
 
 March 15. — We waited the next morning on the Aga. In the 
 court-yard the Turtur risorius was cooing : from the note, the Greeks 
 have given this bird the name of Decoctouri, as the French have Dix- 
 huit to our Lapwing. The Kirkenasi, a hawk, very like our Kestril, 
 flew screaming round the house ; and the stork was busy in repair- 
 ing his nest, to which he had returned about eight days since. We 
 proceeded from the Aga's to a Greek church, to the south of the town. 
 The walls were covered with Chrysanthemum coronarium, which began 
 to open its golden blossoms : the Hypecoum, several species of toad 
 flax, one of which adorns our parterres, and a number of Diadelphous 
 plants, were flowering among the corn. It was a warm still day, and a 
 number of insects were sporting in the air. I caught a beautiful 
 species of Cantharis on the rich blue flower of the Alkanet ; and a Chry- 
 somela, with two spots, was feeding on the leaves of the wild pear.
 
 ARGOLIS. g»7 
 
 The church being shut, we examined only its external walls, but found 
 no inscriptions. Passing over a field covered with asphodels, we 
 proceeded to the ruins of the theatre, vuider which are the remains of a 
 temple supposed to have been that of Venus, mentioned by Pausanias. 
 We were struck with the immense size of some of the stones that had 
 formed the walls. The thick haze, which so frequently obscures the 
 view in these climates, induced us to defer going up to the Acropolis : 
 this place my friend intended to make a station for his geographical 
 observations. On our return, being market-day, a number of villagers, 
 bringing in the produce of their labours, had collected together : the 
 women were sufficiently homely, and the men were simply clad with 
 an outer garment lined with sheep's skin, the fleece turned inward. 
 Argos had taken an active part in the late Russian war ; and the ruins 
 of numerous houses testified the resentment which the Turks had 
 taken on the unfortunate town. Many of its inhabitants had fled, 
 and others concealed themselves. This place shared, with the rest of 
 the Morea, the general calamity of the plague, and lost, three years 
 since, a great part of its population. It is one of the smaller Villaet- 
 tis, and contains only twenty-four towns or villages within its district. 
 If the Aga is oppressive, by means of money the Argians procure his 
 removal ; and the hope of a better master occasions frequent changes 
 at the expense of the people. The small-pox was in the house where 
 we lodged ; and two children infected with it, were committed to the 
 care of a Papas, and an adventurous son of iEsculapius, who had just 
 emerged from a shop in Cephallonia. We counselled them to an ex- 
 posure to the air, and the avoiding an accumulation of heat. * 
 
 * Dr. Sibthorp, in a letter to Mr. Wenman, mentions " his crossing the Bay of Argos 
 from Napoli di Romania : and finding the famous lake of the Lernean hydra : this is 
 composed of a number of mouths or sources, which are extremely clear and transparent. 
 Like our blow-wells in the marshes of Lincolnshire, they are said to have no bottom. 
 The white water lily, with the Riccia fluitans, was floating on the surface."
 
 gg LACONIA, 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Mistra. — U>isef fieri State of the Countri/. — Political Speculations of the Greeh. — Visit to 
 Sclavo-chorio. — SiiigJtla?- Jlepresentations in Bas-rdicf. — Sparta. — Exmrsion to Ithome. 
 — Wood of the Holy Cross. — Cronm of Thm-j>s. — Remains of Messene. — Beautiful 
 Sln/cl?in' qfsovie of the ancient Gates. — Cmone. — Confinement and Coyicealment of the 
 
 ' lurkish Women. — Turkish Wedding. — Emhark at Coronc. — Stations of the Turtle 
 Doves. — Zantiote Sportsmen. — Cephallonia. — Marine Exuvice. — Plants. — Coast of 
 Ithaca. — Channel of Lencada. — Santa Maura. — Prevesa. — Fishc/y. — Anecdote of 
 Count Carburi. — Ruins of Kicopolis. — Sail from Corfu. — Island (f Fanno. — Plants 
 and other Productions. — Mode of Farming in Zaiitc. — Depaved State of Society in the 
 Island under the Venetian Government. 
 
 April 19. — We were hospitably received in the house of a Dutch 
 Barratlee, who was preparing, from the unsettled state of property at 
 Mistra, to proceed to Patras. We were here at something more than 
 an hour's distance from Sparta ; but it was necessary to have a guard ; 
 and that composed of Turks. It was the great Turkish festival of the 
 first day of the Bairam : we were obliged therefore to defer our ex- 
 cursion to Sparta, and to engage the Vaivode to furnish us with a 
 guard for the purpose the next day. We were visited by the Bishop 
 and the Archons, deploring the miserable state of the subjugated 
 Greeks : they persuaded, themselves we were sent on some political 
 mission, and formed various hopes from our arrival. The Proto- 
 archon squeezed us cordially by the hand, and said he ventured now 
 to raise up his head ; and felt a new beam of life. The Bishop had 
 some learning ; a rare circumstance in a Greek diocesan. Hearing 
 that the Vaivode had granted us an escort to conduct us the next day 
 to Sparta, he begged he might be permitted to take advantage of it, 
 and visit one of his parishes ; and such was the insecure state of 
 property, that our host, who had lands in the neighbourhood of 
 Sparta, had been deterred by the fear of robbers, for six months past, 
 from visiting them ; while his property was suffering from the abuse 
 of his tenants. Among the robbers the name of Zacharias stood first 
 on the list : he had long bid defiance to the Turks, and either eluded
 
 LACONIA. 
 
 89 
 
 or defeated the different troops which had been sent to take him 
 prisoner. He treated the Turks who fell into his hands with great 
 severity, murdering most of them. A sort of armistice took place 
 between him and the Vaivode of Mistra ; but this was insufficient for 
 the safety of travellers who were not projected by a guard . of the 
 Vaivode. In the evening I took a walk in the outskirts of the town, 
 our host, who was my guide, not thinking it prudent to venture far 
 beyond the walls. On the side of the road the water was conducted 
 in wooden troughs, usefully serving a number of mills. I added to 
 my herbarium an Antirrhinum, resembling Cymbalaria, but with 
 woolly leaves, elegantly entwining the rocks. 
 
 April 20. — We set out for Sparta with ten guards, well armed, 
 and attended by our host : the Bishop was prevented from accom- 
 panying us by some visits of ceremony he was expected to pay to the 
 first Turkish families, making to their servants a kind of Easter- 
 offering, the usual present at the Eairam. At something more than 
 an hour we arrived at Sclavochorio. In a Greek church, near the 
 altar-piece, were preserved two curious specimens of ancient sculp- 
 ture*, representing the different articles relating to the dress of a Greek 
 lady. Our Proto-archon recollected the Abbe Fourmont at Mistra ; 
 described his researches as expensive, and engaging a number of 
 workmen. Many of the inscriptions which were dug up were covered 
 again and left. The government of the town was then in the hands 
 of the Greeks, who gave every assistance to the Abbe in his en- 
 quiries : the unfortunate success of the insurrection of the Morea 
 had now enslaved them, and they possessed scarcely a nominal power. 
 On our arrival, in a wall near the road, we observed several ancient 
 fragments : one represented a chase, in which was the figure of a 
 wild goat or Ibex. One of our guards, though a Turk, was well ac- 
 quainted with the modern Greek names of several plants. From 
 Sclavochorio we proceeded to Sparta, about two hours' distance. In 
 addition to the theatre, we observed the remains of numerous build- 
 
 * Now in the possession of the Earl of Aberdeen. See the first volume of this work, 
 p. 452. 2d edit. 
 
 VOL. II. N
 
 90 LACONIA. 
 
 ings on the low hills that rose on the plain, which was partly sown 
 with corn : a ploughman with two lean steers, with difficulty turned 
 up the soil, covered with stones and the ruins of buildings. The 
 walls of several of them, raised of brick, were still remaining: we saw, 
 however, no columns. The river which glided through the plain had 
 frequently shifted its bed : willows and the Agnus Castus skirted its 
 sides. We returned and spent the day at Mistra. I greatly regretted 
 that I was not able to extend our tour throughout Maina : it was our 
 intention to have visited the promontory of Taenarus, so famous for 
 its marble ; but it was infested by a lawless tribe of banditti, whose 
 force is so formidable as to set even the orders of the Bey at defiance. 
 
 April 23. — We determined on making an excursion to Mount 
 Ithome ; and setting out from Kutchuk Maina in the afternoon, after 
 a ride of something more than three hours over a rich plain, watered 
 by the Pamisus, now called Agio Florio, we ascended the mountain 
 of Vulkano, and arrived at the convent. The Hegoumenos, who 
 had read Meletius, offered himself as our guide, and promised in the 
 morning to conduct us to the ruins of Messene. He was a great 
 polemic ; and to show his knowledge of theology, contended that 
 our Saviour's cross was made of three sorts of wood, of cypress, of 
 cedar, and of pine. * This idea was probably founded on the Greek 
 verse of the OCtoechos, Ix. KUTTXfia-a-nx, kui TTiUKr], y.ca in^o, y.. T. X., which 
 is chanted in the Greek churches on Good Friday. The thorny 
 crown, according to this sage monk, was formed of the Smilax 
 aspera : I shall leave the botanical theologists to contend with him in 
 favour of the Paliurus and the Spina Christi. I herborised in the 
 evening, round the monastery, in the garden rank with weeds. The 
 sides of the mountain offered me some curious plants : among others, 
 the little Anthyllis figured by Girard in his Flora Gallo-provincialis ; 
 
 * Sandys records anotlier opinion held on this subject by some of the Christians of 
 the East. " The cross was formed, as they report, of four several woods, the foot of 
 cedar, the bole of cypress, the transome of palm, and the title of olive." 144. — E.
 
 MESSENIA. 
 
 91 
 
 but botany slept ; and such was the profound ignorance of the caloyers, 
 that they were unacquainted with the most common names of the 
 most common plants. 
 
 April 24. — We proceeded from the convent up the mountain, 
 conducted by our Hegoumenos : in half an hour we came to the 
 ruins of an ancient gateway : ascending higher up, on the summit of 
 Ithome we found the remains of the walls of the ancient Acropolis. 
 From this height, we commanded a rich and extensive view of the 
 fertile plain of Messenia, watered by the Pamisus, and walled in by 
 Taygetus and a high range of mountains. The descent to the city 
 walls was extremely rough ; and Ithome, though far from the highest, 
 is one of the steepest and most rugged mountains of the Pelo- 
 ponnesus. The purple flax, and the red Crepis which is the or- 
 nament of our parterres, with the Catananche lutea, were flowering 
 on its summit. The silver fir, characteristic of the higher regions of 
 Greece, was wanting ; the rocks were covered with mastic, broom, and 
 low shrubs, browsed by the goats. The Wheat-ear, a bird of passage, 
 flew among the ruins. The small village of Mavromati is within the 
 enceinte of the ancient walls. AAHiile we roasted a lamb, a number of 
 squalid female figures, who were washing at the fountain, assembled 
 round us, offering a number of coins that had been found in the 
 ruins. Having dined under the shade of a huge walnut-tree, we pro- 
 ceeded to a gateway composed of immense stones : it was extremely 
 well preserved, and of a circular form : one on the road, leading to 
 the Acropolis, may be considered among the finest remains of the archi- 
 tecture of the ancients, and a proof of the extraordinary mechanism 
 with which they moved enormous masses of stone to their buildings. 
 These stones formed by the chissel were accurately fitted to each other ; 
 as no mortar was used in the walls, this exactness of position was more 
 strictly attended to. We saw no inscriptions ; but a number of frag- 
 ments of columns were scattered over the area of the ancient town, 
 now sown with corn. Among the marbles was an alto relievo repre- 
 senting a chase, in which the figure of a lion was preserved. Several 
 fragments were found in the walls of the Greek churches. From 
 
 N 2
 
 92 CORONE. 
 
 Mavromati, we proceeded to Nisi, leaving Andrusa, a Turkish town, 
 about half a mile on our right, and met with a very hospitable re- 
 ception at the house of the Venetian consul. I was here visited by 
 a Corsican physician, who pressed me to several consultations. A 
 basket of Truffles was brought to me, in which my host distinguished 
 three sorts. Lent is the season when the greatest numbers are 
 found. The diet of the Greeks at that season is very general) v 
 drawn from the vegetable kingdom, and the Truffle becomes then an 
 object of considerable importance. 
 
 April 25. — When advice is to be had gratis, invalids are always 
 found. My good host had consulted me the preceding evening : I 
 was in the mornins drawn into a consultation for the wife and 
 daughter. Female complaints are more frequent in Greece than in 
 the rest of Europe ; much of this is owing to the confinement of the 
 women, and that want of exercise which enervates the system. The 
 hysterical complaints of my two patients were owing to these causes. 
 From Nisi, we had a journey of seven hours to Corone : our road 
 conducted us chiefly along the beach : the rocks were covered with 
 Cistus : patches of corn were spread over the vales, and rich olive 
 grounds extended to Corone. On our way we passed by some ruins 
 at Petalida. We had been warmly recommended to the Bey, who 
 received us on the beach in an elegant kiosk built in the Chinese 
 fashion. The Bey himself was learned for a Turk : he had some 
 knowledge of Astronomy, Mathematics, and Architecture : his brother 
 was Disdar or commander of the castle. The kiosk was at our dis- 
 posal, and the Bey had provided for us an elegant supper. It was 
 served in the European manner, with tables, chairs, and Staffordshire 
 ware, luxuries we had not seen before in a Turkish house. The 
 waves beat gently along the walls of our kiosk, and brought on a soft 
 and comfortable repose. 
 
 April 26. — In the morning, the approach of the Venetian brig 
 was announced to us: it was returning from an unsuccessful cruise 
 against the pirates on the coast of Maina. A reward of 1000 piastres 
 was offered to a Mainote chief, who promised either to shoot or se-
 
 CORONE. 93 
 
 cure the person of the pirate. The wind was contrary ; and notT 
 withstanding our impatience to embark, we were detained at Corone. 
 We were visited by the bishop and by Mr. Thibaut, who, attached to 
 the royal cause, had disdained to accept his office under the Re- 
 public, and sought protection from the British embassy. The violence 
 of party disturbed the repose, and broke the union which should 
 subsist between merchants of the same nation in a foreign country. 
 The Bey was extremely anxious to receive my advice for his son, a 
 youth of eighteen, and for his wife. The latter wished personally to 
 consult me ; but the jealousy of the Bey was an objection not to be 
 overcoma, She sent me the account of her case b}' a lady of her ac- 
 quaintance, and the physician was charged by the Bey to give me 
 the details : his information, however, was very imperfect : he had 
 not seen the lady, and felt her pulse only through a piece of muslin 
 thrown over the hand. The Turkish women carefully conceal the 
 face : none but the husband has the privilege of seeing it : the ex- 
 posure of it would be considered as the prostitution of the person. 
 The Turkish women, whom we saw on the roads, had their faces 
 muffled up ; and when they met us, they either turned themselves 
 away, or stood behind a tree until we passed. 
 
 The residence and society of the French merchants at Corone had 
 a considerable influence in softening the manners of the Turks. We 
 went in the evening to visit M. Thibaut, who with his lady, a Parisian, 
 bore their adverse fortune with a resignation which did them honour. 
 M. T. had been consul in Egypt, and made a small collection of gems ; 
 among them was a Leander, much admired by the author of Ana- 
 charsis ; and a Leda, which he parted with to my friend Hawkins. 
 M. T. had extracted from Lemery the names of some simples and 
 drugs ; and his knowledge placed him at least upon a level with the 
 Greek doctors. He expressed himself at a loss, not being able to get 
 the Hypocistis : I consoled him by giving my opinion, that the com- 
 position would not be hurt by the omission of that ingredient. We 
 passed our evening pleasantly at his house; his lady, with much 
 vivacity, entertaining us with an account of the buffoonery she had
 
 94 ZANTE. 
 
 seen at a Turkish marriage. Indecent dancing, and music performed 
 by women, furnished the principal parts of the entertainment ; when 
 the bride veiled, and crowned with sequins, was led into the room, 
 and kneeling before the mother of the bridegroom, receives his presents 
 and those of iiis friends. It was already midnight, when the Captain of 
 theMerope summoned us aboard: thejanisaries of the Bey were waiting 
 to conduct us to the shore, where we found the launch, and embark- 
 inir in it, we went on board the brio-. We looked in vain for the 
 comfortable neatness of the English cabin ; and our sleep was disturbed 
 by the numerous insects which preyed upon us. 
 
 April 27. — We had in the night advanced so far out, that we had 
 cleared Cape Gallo, and the appearance of the weather, which was 
 thick and hazy, flattered us with the hopes of a Sirocco wind. The 
 haze, however, went off as the day advanced, and instead of a Sirocco, 
 the calm was succeeded by a contrary wind from the west. 
 
 April 28. — We steered our course towards the Strophades : it was 
 our intention to have landed and spent a day here ; but it now blew 
 so fresh, that the landing in our boat would have been difficult and dan- 
 gerous. A nobleman of Zante, Count Nicholas Logotheti, was con- 
 siderably alarmed : his fears produced frequent vows to the Panagia to 
 favour our escape. We left the island of the Harpies about a mile 
 distant, and proceeded in our course towards Zante ; but the wind 
 falling in the evening, we found ourselves at about five leagues from 
 that island at sunset. In the course of the day several turtle-doves 
 flew by the vessel ; and a species of Motacilla, pitching upon the 
 cordage, was caught by the hands of one of our sailors. The islands 
 of the Strophades are low and flat ; peopled by a monastery of 
 Caloyers : they are occasionally visited by Zantiote sportsmen, as they 
 are a noted station for the turtle-doves in their passage. The Count 
 Nicholetto was here to have joined a party who came with that 
 intention from Zante. 
 
 April 29. — Early in the morning we were near the shore of the 
 island ; when a contrary wind springing up, we went in the launch to 
 Cape Basilico : here Anthonio Camouta Cornaro, and Count Antonio
 
 ZANTE. 
 
 95 
 
 Logotheti, and a party, had collected for the purpose of shooting 
 turtle-doves. We dined with our friends at the convent ; and in the 
 evening, procuring mules, we proceeded to the town. Zante now 
 appeared with extraordinary beauty : the olive-trees were covered 
 with flower ; the corn already producing its spike, promised a rich 
 and speedy harvest. The chase was not here the reward of inde- 
 fatigable labour ; the Zantiote nobleman enjoying luxurious ease, had 
 his arms carried by a servant ; and softly reposing in an elbow-chair, 
 under a spreading olive-tree, expected the arrival of the turtle-doves. 
 Books of amusement, the social conversation of friends, gentle 
 exercise, provoked an appetite which all the science of Apicius was 
 employed to satisfy. The liver of the Scarus * was not forgotten ; 
 and the critical moment of sacrifice was strongly and eagerly debated. 
 The philosophy of Epicurus finds here many disciples ; and the pur- 
 suit of the Summum Bonum is only occasionally arrested by the 
 alarming reports of earthquakes and apoplexies. 
 
 May 1. — I took an affectionate leave of the house of our worthy 
 consul, who accompanied me at day-break with my friend Hawkins 
 to the Cai(}ue. As we rowed along the beach, we were saluted by them 
 with many KaA« KocTiQ,oh<x.-\, and I contemplated with pleasure the shore 
 where I had experienced the warmth of so much hospitality. We had 
 made little way with our oars, when the wind, which was contrary, 
 strengthening, obliged us to put into a small port, distinguished by the 
 name ofGaidaros. Our bark lay here sheltered from the westerly winds. 
 We landed, and walking along the shore I made some additions to the 
 Zantiote Flora. The olives were now covered with blossoms ; and the 
 fruit well formed on the stalk of the asphodel, promised an abundant 
 harvest. At sunset the wind sunk, and after a few hours, our sailors 
 having reposed, ventured on with their oars. 
 
 May 2. — A light westerly wind springing up in the morning, we 
 advanced considerably before our gun-boat, by which we had been 
 
 • See the first volume of this work, p. 286. 
 
 -{■ KaTfuoS/a, " buon vi.iggio." Sommavcra. — E.
 
 96 
 
 WESTERN SHORE 
 
 escorted, ou account of* the alarm of pirates. At ten we dropt anchor 
 in a small port called Scala, in the island of Cephallonia. On the 
 fragments of sand-stone, separated from the rock, I noticed the exu- 
 viae oi' Pectines, Gaideropi, and other shells. Above the port was 
 the town of Scala, and behind it rose Mount Elato, thinly clad with 
 pines. It was formerly covered with wood ; but the Venetian govern- 
 ment exacting much gratuitous service from the inhabitants, in fell- 
 ing and drawing the timber for public service, excited such discontent, 
 that to rid themselves of the onus, certain persons set fire to the wood, 
 and consumed a considerable number of the trees. We landed near 
 a watch-tower, which served in time of plague as a guard-house. The 
 rocks on the shore were covered with cistus and the flowering heath, 
 and the thyme of the ancients. Among these shrubs I noticed the 
 Emb. Melanocephalus, which arrives with the turtles : it is con- 
 founded with the ortolan called Ampelourgos. I picked up but few 
 plants on the beach : the rarer ones were the night-flowering Silene, 
 and a species of Ononis ; and a little Gypsophila was in flower among 
 the bushes. In the evening we weighed anchor, and advanced with 
 our oars along the shore, bold, naked, and rocky. The Magistral wind 
 blowing strong, we dropped anchor under the lee of some projecting 
 rocks. 
 
 May 3. — We proceeded slowly in the morning under the shore 
 with our oars, taking in water on the stony beach of Port Poros : our 
 sailors dug a hole in the sand, and the water, with a slight brackish 
 taste, rose within a few feet of the sea. The chasm in the rocks served 
 as a passage to a vale, on which, according to the tradition of our 
 mariners, once stood a large and populous city. At two in the after- 
 noon, we doubled Cape John, the south-east point of Ithaca. The 
 island affords several good ports : we dropped anchor in that of 
 Skino. To our left was the harbour of Vathi, which is the chief town 
 in the island. The rocks on the shore make the navigation danger- 
 ous : they appeared to be composed of a white friable lime-stone. I 
 saw a number of maritime plants : the Cineraria maritima, the Stae- 
 helina chamaepeuce, &c. The hills were white with the flowers of the
 
 OF GREECE. 97 
 
 Caiicalis : I gathered on them another umbelUt'erous plant, with a 
 five-divided leaf, which appeared a species of Athamanta. 
 
 May 4. — We weighed anchor in the morning, the weather being 
 calm, and continued our course with our oars : we passed by Chione, 
 a village situated in a recess near the shore. Several islands were in 
 view : among these Calamo, renowned for the excellence of its cornj 
 which is esteemed the best in the Levant. We passed by a narrow 
 entrance into a channel formed by the main land of Romelia and 
 Leucada. In the evening, the wind being contrary, we dropped 
 anchor under the small island of Madoura. I was pleased to see the 
 garden lily growing, abundantly, w ild among the rocks ; but I sus- 
 pected it was not the original habitat ; and upon enquiry I found 
 that it had been planted by the proprietor of the island about forty 
 years since ; but alarmed with the fear of robbers from its vicinity to 
 Turkey, he had left the place. The island offered a rich crop of corn, 
 intermixed with flourishing olive trees now abounding with flowers. 
 
 May 5. — It being calm in the morning, we proceeded with oars to 
 Santa Maura : a number of Monoxyla, the hollowed trunks of an 
 oak, called A^k *, and small boats laden with fish were rowing to the 
 town. We hailed several of them, and made different purchases : 
 they had caught a sort of Scomber, called by the Greeks yoTreu, by 
 the Italians goplico ; plenty of soles, and grey mullet. From the 
 fishermen I procured a kind of crab with a large caudal spot, called 
 Carrochio. The muddy bottom of the canal furnishing a favourable 
 feeding-place, Santa jNIaura is well supplied with that article. We 
 visited on our arrival the Proveditore Extraordinary, who gave us a 
 polite reception. Leucada contains about 16,000 inhabitants, and 
 34 inhabited towns. Santa Maura, the capital, has the air of a 
 Turkish town : the streets narrow, and the little attention paid by 
 
 * " Le nom que Ton ilunne a ces bateaux exprime bieii I'ctoff'e et la nianicre doiit ils 
 sontbatis; car Monoxyloii en Grcc veut dire qu'ils sont fails d'line seule piece de bois. 
 Ce nom de Monoxyla n'est pas inconnu a Hesychius, qui dit que les Cypriots appciioient 
 aussi ces bateaux aSpua. A. wKo'tcc /xovo'fyXa, Kw^ioi." Spon. Voyage 1. — E, 
 
 VOL. II. O
 
 9g WESTERN SHORE 
 
 the police to cleanliness, the offensiveness of the stagnant water in 
 the canals of the street, joined to its low situation, and the salines, 
 must render it unhealthy, particularly during the summer season. A 
 strong fortress commanded the channel ; and a l^ridge of upwards of 
 300 arches connects the town to the citadel. The bridge, which is 
 narrow, is of Turkish structure, originally intended for an aqueduct. 
 The principal produce of the island is oil and corn : it is larger than 
 Zante ; but greatly inferior in point of population and produce. 
 The cultivation of the currant-grape has in vain been attempted. 
 The salines near the town are an important object of revenue ; and 
 several vessels were taking in cargoes of salt. The produce of a 
 fishery in the vicinity of the town is considerable. Near it women 
 were busy in collecting marsh-samphire : they eat it both raw and as 
 a pot-herb ; and call it armorithra. Baskets of the heads of wild 
 aitichokes were standing in the street for sale ; and were sold thirty 
 for a pai'a. 
 
 May 6. — Our boat having been unloaded, and pushed over the 
 shallows with the aid of men, who waded in the water, we embarked 
 in another of a lighter construction, and joined it. The water in 
 several places was not two feet deep, and the distance from shore to 
 shore in some places not half a mile. The Magistral blowing fresh, 
 we were induced to put into Prevesa, about ten miles distant from the 
 town of Santa Maura. On our landing we were struck with the 
 bizarre appearance of the mixture of Venetian and Turkish manners. 
 A considerable quantity of shell-fish were taken in the bay for sale : 
 amongst them were Pinna marina, 7r/i/va ; Gaideropus, yxi^ifo-og ; Area 
 Noae, a-TTiTTovUixi; ; Solen, a-ovXivctpt, and the large Scallop, or Capo Santa. 
 At Santa Maura I saw several of the exuviae of the Venus, called Pix~ 
 Ti'aif. Prevesa is said to consist of 3000 houses, without any par- 
 ticular manufacture : the population is large ; and the place serves as 
 the port of exportation for much of the produce of Romelia. The 
 situation of the town is flat, low, and particularly during the summer 
 season must be considered as unhealthy.
 
 OF GREECE. 99 
 
 May 7. — A contrary wind detained us at Prevesa. Intending to 
 see Nicopolis, we visited in the morning the captain of the guard, 
 requesting the favour of an escort. He was the cavalier servente of 
 a French lady who had been married to Carburi, one of the most 
 active and enterprising spirits of modern Greece ; and who had fallen 
 an untimely sacrifice to the jealousy of the Cephallonians, by the 
 hands of some Albanians, whom he employed as labourers. He had 
 eminently distinguished himself by his knowledge of mechanics; and 
 by the conveyance of that immense mass of granite *, out of which 
 the famous statue of Peter the Great was worked. Influenced by a 
 strong desire of improvement, he had obtained from the republic of 
 Venice the grant of certain lands in Cephallonia, and had here suc- 
 cessfullv introduced the culture of indiopo : and was naturalising the 
 products of India, when the resentment of certain persons, stimu- 
 lated by other Cephallonians, who had formerly enjoyed the feed of 
 the waste granted to Carburi, occasioned his massacre. The reformer 
 in this unhappy country, where the person is not sufficiently pro- 
 tected by the laws from the knife of the assassin, is a character at- 
 tended with much danger. On our return from Nicopolis, we passed 
 by the warehouse and the docks of a French merchant, who, favoured 
 by Ali Pasha, was carrying on the exportation of tiniber to Toulon on 
 a large scale, when he was sacrificed by some Albanians to the 
 jealousy of the inhabitants of Prevesa. We made an excursion in 
 the afternoon to the ruins of Nicopolis : the road was over a plain of 
 rich loamy sand, with patches of corn and olive grounds ; but the cul- 
 ture of it, in general, much neglected. The territory of the republic 
 is here very limited, not extending more than an hour beyond the 
 town. Arriving at Nicopolis, we were shown an oak tree, which is in 
 this place the boundary mark. The ruins are very considerable and 
 
 * The foundation of the statue of Peter the Great, erected at Petersburgh by Cathe- 
 rine II. is composed of a boulder or detached block of granite, found in a bay of the gulf 
 of Finland, whence it was transported to the capital. Relation par le Comte Marin Cai- 
 buri de Cephallonie. Brande's Lectures. — E. 
 
 o 2
 
 100 
 
 WESTERN SHORE 
 
 extensive ; and the broken walls, built of brick, encompass a large 
 circuit, now covered with luxuriant crops of corn. There are con- 
 siderable remains of a theatre, with the arched way or piazza round 
 it. I gathered on the walls of it the Asplenium Hemionitis : within 
 the enceinte of them, and near the gateway, I observed the Celtis au- 
 stralis, called MsXiy.cy.y.ua. We saw remains of aqueducts and baths, but 
 observed no inscriptions. I was shown some granite pillars, with 
 Ionic and Corinthian capitals ; and a large frize, which serves at 
 present as the decoration of a fountain. The situation of Nicopolis, 
 on a gentle rise approaching the mountains, commanding Actium and 
 the Gulf of Arta, is beautiful and striking ; and the extent of the 
 remains are evidence of its former magnificence. The plough is 
 continually turning up ancient ornaments or memorials. I saw 
 several gems ; and large collections of coins have been made within 
 its ruins. Paleeocastro is not more than an hour from Prevesa. We 
 returned along the beach to the house and garden of the unfortunate 
 Frenchman. The want of personal security is such, that the republic 
 permits the general use of arms here to all its subjects. The sword of 
 justice is kept sheathed ; and every m>an depends on the strength of 
 his own arm, or that of his friend, for protection. Even the im- 
 mediate vicinity of the town is considered as insecure; and the 
 neighbouring Turks are characterised as bands of robbers. 
 
 . We left Prevesa before day-light, and dropped anchor two hours 
 before sunset in the port of Corfu. The approach to the town was 
 very striking ; the coast covered with groves of olive trees. Oil is 
 the principal produce of the island, and both the quantity and quality 
 of it are superior to that made in the other islands. The produce of 
 last year's oil was valued at .^00,000 pounds sterling. Corfu, in point 
 of soil, is the richest of all of them : it is peculiarly suited to the 
 culture of the olive ; but the Corinthian grape does not succeed here. 
 The olive is left to maturate upon the tree ; nor is the juice expressed 
 until the fruit is fully ripe. At Zante the olive is gathered green, 
 and preserved with salt, which communicates to the oil a bad 
 flavour.
 
 OF GREECE. ]01 
 
 May 11. — We sailed in the morning vvitli a favourable wind : it 
 freshened, and obliged us to make for the little island of Fanno. In 
 approaching the shore, we were stranded among the rocks : a small 
 boat, fortunately lying at anchor in a cove, rowed to our assistance. 
 We lightened our vessel by embarking in it our baggage ; and the 
 sailors wading in the water, with the assistance of the crew of the 
 other boat, at length cleared our caique, and brought her into the 
 cove. It blew hard in the evening ; and we accepted the invitation 
 of a Greek Papas to sleep at his dormitory, a large cheerless magazine 
 near the shore ; a table and a few broken chairs its only furniture ; 
 the roof in many places untiled. 
 
 May 12, 13, 14, 15. — We made various attempts to leave the 
 island, but the Magistral wind forced us to return. We disem- 
 barked our beds again, and sought our miserable magazine for shelter. 
 I amused myself with shooting some turtle-doves and rock-pigeons 
 that were now on their passage. The evening was still. The Melba, 
 the Marten, and the house Swallow were sailing in the air in pursuit 
 of insects, A number of the Scaraba?us Solstitialis buzzed round 
 the olive-trees which were now covered with flowers : a goatsucker, 
 hovering over them, caught several ; and a little flycatcher, darting 
 frequently, preyed upon the lesser insects. The island of Fanno is 
 mountainous, and the rocks are composed of a white dense marble : 
 the vales present a light sandy soil : the circuit is about twelve miles, 
 and contains about 114 scattered houses. A noble Venetian, of the 
 name of Cornaro, is the proprietor. Wine is the principal produce, 
 and barley, which is of that species called by the botanists Hexas- 
 tichon, and by the Greeks Hexagono ; of this they make their bread. 
 A few olive-grounds, with the culture of oats and leguminous plants, 
 supply the wants of the inhabitants. It is distant about eighty miles 
 from Otranto ; and small boats are frequently obliged to wait here 
 several davs for a favourable wind. Another vessel, the companion 
 of our misfortunes, that was laden with tortoises, and steering the 
 same course, was obliged to return back, and seek for shelter in the 
 port.
 
 102 WESTERN SHORE 
 
 May 16. — The Magistral blew fresh. I lessened the pain of con- 
 finement by herborising and reading. The rocks were covered with 
 the Asperula Calabrica, which the inhabitants called A/ evrcuvovf^l, 
 and with its elegant purple flowers made a showy appearance. The 
 Staehelina chamaepeuce, the Conyza Candida, and saxatilis, the Cam- 
 panula pyramidalis and Gnaphalium Stcechas angustifol., grew on the 
 rocks along the coast. Low Mastics and Myrtles, mixed with wild 
 Thyme and Cytisus, covered the uncultivated hills, and on the side of 
 the torrent bed grew the Agnus castus ; it is here called dyi/oi;, one 
 of its ancient names ; and in Zante, Xvyeix, corrupted from Xuyog ; and 
 at Athens, kccvvscz-ittcc. The best illustration of the ancient botanists 
 would be by a vocabulary of the provincial or insular names used in 
 the different parts of Greece : this is a work of time, and demands a 
 long residence in the country. Near our miserable dormitory grew 
 a great quantity of the Coch. Coronopus ; the islanders collected it 
 as a pot herb, and called it 7iovf.ovvo7rdSi. Dioscorides informs us it was 
 eaten, and that it grew in situations, similar to that where we found 
 it. Among the leguminous plants, I observed the cultivated Pea and 
 the Pisum ochrus : the one is called ju,7r/(r(, the other ocvxo'; * ; the 
 Lathy rus, XaSJp*, and the Lentil, (pxy.i. 
 
 May 17. — The Magistral' wind continued to blow with violence) 
 and we v/ere still obliged to bear the ennui of Fanno. Our rest was 
 disturbed by a small gnat, called by the Greeks T^ouxTjjpa, the co- 
 inhabitant of our miserable granary, and which inflamed our hands 
 and face with prurient tumours. In the afternoon, I ascended one of 
 the higher mountains, and descried the coast of Italy covered with a 
 thick haze. On some rocks at a distance from the sea, I observed 
 the Lichen Roccella f, and growing in such abundance, that it might 
 form a valuable article of commerce. In the evening, my com- 
 
 * TTspi i^aa-ovXQtj xu) au^ou. An. Med. Du. C. App. ad. Gl. in v. A. — E. 
 
 f The ^Dxof 8aXao-<nov or tto'vtiov of Theophrastus and Dioscorides. It grew also on 
 the rocks of Crete. It was used in their time for dyeing wool. Tournefort found it in 
 Amorgos. Beckmann Hist. Inv. 1 . — E.
 
 OF GREECE. 
 
 103 
 
 panions made their supper on boiled fennel. The Greeks temperate 
 their salt diet with the copious use of wild herbs, and in the Greek 
 pottage enter a number of vegetable ingredients neglected in the rest 
 of Europe. * We had supped before on the leaves of the Picris 
 Echioides, called ;y^o<poj(?oT«i/oi/, and some sailors on the beach were pre-" 
 paring their mess composed of charlock, XoLTTT^r,. Scorp. Picroides, 
 TouXuyou TO i^^ioy.), and ttik^oxISi, Succory. At Zante, a number of women 
 gain a subsistence by collecting the aVp'^ Xiiy^uvcc. and bringing them 
 to market. 
 
 May 18. — My companions were now become outrageous with the 
 obstinate continuance of the Magistral, and talked of returning to 
 Zante : one, almost despondent, made frequent vows ; another, who 
 bore his exile with more philosophy, favoured me with his system 
 of farming at Zante. He had a flock of sheep, a vineyard, olive 
 grounds, a fruit garden, more arable acres than supplied his house 
 with corn. His flock of sheep, which consisted of 200, were let to 
 a tenant or collega, who was (whatever accidents might happen) to 
 be responsible, and to keep up the number of his flock, and pay to the 
 proprietor 600 pounds weight annually of cheese, 100 pounds weight 
 of wool, and 16 lambs, besides two fat lambs, one at the Carnival, 
 the other at Easter : these were to be fattened with more than com- 
 mon care, by being fed on milk. He had a certain number of cows 
 that were kept for breeding : the milk of these was, however, en- 
 tirely destined for the nourishment of the calf: half of the profits of 
 this calf belonged to the proprietor ; the other half was that of the 
 collega for his care and attention in feeding it. He had also several 
 labouring oxen which were worked bv the collega, on condition of his 
 
 • Extract frotn a letter of Dr. Sibthorp to i\Ir. Wenman : — " I wisli to tell our poor 
 people that they may collect many a dish from our corn fields. Our charlock will furnish 
 them with an excellent pot herb called by the Greeks A«Txavr) : that Tordylium which 
 grows in the parks is, I believe, the ancient Caucalis, as it is now called xavxaxivct, and 
 the leaves of it are eaten both raw and boiled ; and to quiet the fears of our good people 
 about the water parsnep. mistaken for w atcr cresses, I have often seen the Greeks eat whole 
 bunches of it (Sium nodiflorum) as a sallad, with impunity."
 
 104 WESTERN SHORE 
 
 paying thi-ee baccilli or measures of wheat for each ox. The corn 
 was divided into equal shares, half to the proprietor, the other half 
 to the collega. The olives were estimated by two appraisers chosen, 
 the one by the proprietor, the other by this collega. The valuation 
 was then made, and three-fifths of the olives allotted to the former. 
 My Zantiote acted candidly, and allowed his tenants to make the full 
 value of their portion : other landlords have a most iniquitous way of 
 obliging them to sell their oil to them at an under price, which is 
 sometimes so low as to take away all the profits of labour : others 
 ruin the collega again by advancing him money at a high interest. 
 The expense of preparing the crop is made by the collega ; and to 
 supply the wants of his tenant, our Zantiote furnished him with the ne- 
 cessary money at ten per cent. This, in an island where the interest of 
 money is high, at twenty or even thirty per cent., may be considered 
 as moderate. The oil of Zante, being pressed from green olives, is 
 of an inferior quality : the reason assigned for this practice is, that if 
 the olives were left to ripen on the trees, they would be stolen, and 
 justice here is only procured by expenses, and seldom fairly ad- 
 ministered. He who pays the proveditor best is almost sure of a de- 
 cision in his favour ; and though there are appeals from his decision, 
 the distance from Venice, the chicanery of lawyers, and the length of 
 the suit, are circumstances of a most forbidding kind, and the de- 
 fendant frequently sits down consoling himself with his first loss. 
 
 The great object of the republic of Venice is to provide for its poor 
 nobility. Some are sent as proveditors or governors to the different 
 islands and colonies belonging to the republic. The proveditor of 
 Zante exercises his office for three years, and at the end of this period 
 carries off a sum from six to twenty thousand sequins : part of this is 
 made by fines or liberation money ; that is, the money paid in order 
 that a criminal may escape from prison ; and the Zantiote, not find- 
 ing the sword of justice lodged in the hands of an active government, 
 becomes his own executioner, and ferocious with a vindictive spirit, 
 makes no distinction in the measure of crimes ; hence the number of 
 massacres that disgrace the island, and carry off the flower of the
 
 OF GREECE. 
 
 105 
 
 Zantiote youth. So low is the estimate of murder, that thirty piastres 
 are considered as the price of blood. " I would shoot you," said one 
 Zantiote to another, " had I thirty piastres to pay for your skin." 
 During my stay at Zante, a notorious bravo of the name of Gallani, 
 who had fouled his hands with ten murders, walked the street with 
 impunity. Some of these murders he had committed in the public 
 square at noon-day. I had seen him a temporary fugitive in the 
 Morea, just escaped from the hands of the Lalliotes, who were going 
 to murder him : he was then in a penitential mood, vowing to leave 
 his wicked courses, and to turn monk, and pass five years as a caloyero 
 at the Strophades. I said to him that the least he could do was 
 to spend as many years in repentance as he had committed murders. 
 " I must then double the time," said Gallani, very coolly. These 
 vows were, however, soon forgotten ; and on my arrival at Zante, I 
 learned that Gallani had returned, and committed a fresh murder. 
 During my stay at Zante, I heard frequently the discharge of fire- 
 arms in the streets, and was informed of several murders. The idea 
 of consumption being contagious, is very prevalent at Zante. A sick 
 person accidentally discovered that his brother had died of a con- 
 sumption, and the malady had been carefully concealed from him by 
 the doctor. The patient enraged at the supposition of his having 
 caught the disorder from his brother, in consequence of not being 
 advised of it, loaded his pistols, and when the doctor, in one of his 
 visits, approached the bed-side of his patient, the latter discharged the 
 contents into his body. This happened while the philanthropic 
 Howard was at Zante, who was shocked with horror at the scene. 
 
 May 20. — The Magistral sinking in its force during the night, we 
 were tempted early in the morning to row out of the harbour. The 
 attempt was ineffectual : the wind beginning to blow fresh, we turned 
 our helm, and sheltered ourselves under the lee of some rocks, which 
 were broken into steep and craggy precipices, affording a breeding- 
 place to the falcon. A pretty Dianthus, now in flower, grew in the 
 cleft ; and great abundance of Samphire, which our sailors gathered 
 as a pot herb. The waves of the sea, beating against the rocks, had 
 
 VOL. II. p
 
 206 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 worked out a number of subterraneous cells, the lodgings of the 
 phoca, or sea calf. In the evening we returned to the port. 
 
 May 22, 23, 24. — A cloud that rose from the island augured a 
 sirocco wind ; and having paid our Papas for his prayers and miserable 
 cell, all joyous at the favourable omen, we embarked for Otranto. A 
 light gentle sirocco carried us out of the port, but gradually sinking 
 into a calm, our mariners took to their oars : we continued rowing 
 with little intermission ; but it was not till two hours after midnight 
 that we anchored at Otranto. 
 
 JOURNEY FROM CONSTANTINOPLE, THROUGH ASIA MINOR, 
 
 IN THE YEAR 1802. 
 
 [FROAf THE PAPERS OF THE LATE WILLIAM GEORGE BROWNE, ESQ.] 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Nicomedia. — Kara Marsal — Journey thence to Broiissa. — Lake of Niccea. — Bazarhie. 
 — Description of Broiissa. — Baths. — Environs. — Character of the Inhabitants. — Con- 
 
 flagi-ation in 1801. — Population of the City. — Silk. — Armenians and their Bishop. 
 
 Mount Olympus. — Journey to Toushdnlu ; thence to Kutaieh. — Afiim-kara-hissar. 
 
 Ak-shehr. — Elghin. — Konieh. — Mcwlaxai Der-xishes. — Manifaclures. 
 
 I LEFT Constantinople early in the month of June, and proceeded to 
 Nicomedia. The towns of Scudar, Cartal, Gebise, and Nicomedia, 
 being so near the Capital, and on a very frequented road, are popu- 
 lous, and supplied with various kinds of provisions, and all articles of 
 ordinary consumption. The soil between Scudar and Ismit is li^ht 
 aJid productive ; furnishing large crops of barley, (some of which was 
 then ripe, 20th June,) and also of rye, onions, and lentils : but there 
 was no appearance of wheat. I observed some fruit-trees near the 
 towns and villages. Part of the soil is rocky ; part consists of clay, 
 with chalk at intervals.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 107 
 
 Nicomedia is governed by a Pasha of two tails. Being on the high 
 road to Kutaieh, the caravans from the east and south-east are con- 
 tinually passing through that city : but I found it difficult to procure 
 a conveyance to Broussa, with which Nicomedia has no regular or 
 frequent communication. I therefore proceeded in a boat to Kara 
 Mursal ; a small town, containing two moderately-sized mosques, on 
 the south coast of the gulf, and agreeably situated under a ridge of 
 hills. Its vicinity abounds in fruit-trees, which furnish large supplies 
 to the markets of Constantinople. 
 
 Kurun-kue, and some other villages, are seen on the coast a little 
 east of it : a few miles to the west is Hersek, a wretched place, but 
 frequented by travellers between Broussa, Yenishehr, and the Capital, 
 on account of its ferry ; this being the narrowest part of the gulf. 
 The price of the ferry, whether for one person or for a large company, 
 is six piastres and a half We were about three hours in reaching 
 Kara Mursal from Nicomedia. The conveyance from the former 
 place to Broussa was far from convenient ; for though the animals on 
 which we were mounted were active and well fed, yet the horses and 
 mules were furnished indiscriminately with a pack-saddle and halter, 
 and were without bridles. Having advanced along the coast for 
 nearly three hours, we ascended the mountain by a ravine or narrow 
 road, a little to the east of the principal route, which leads through 
 Kezderbend and Niceea, but which is reckoned somewhat longer. 
 From the summit of this ridge, which is calcareous and pretty lofty, 
 we enjoyed, soon after sunrise, an extensive and commanding view of 
 the country on both sides of the gulf of Nicomedia, almost to its 
 mouth ; and on the other, of the still snow-capped Olympus and the 
 lake of Nica^a. 
 
 It is from these elevations that the traveller may observe how small 
 a proportion the cultivated soil bears to that which lies waste. Yet 
 in this quarter the motives that excite to activity, industry and good 
 cultivation, are more powerful, and the tracts of neglected surface 
 much less extensive than in other parts of Anatolia. The soil seems 
 well adapted to the growth of corn ; and the mountain is covered with 
 
 ? 2
 
 108 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 low wood, extremely luxuriant in foliage, and altogether very beautiful. 
 The wood consists, for the most part, of oak, intermingled with beech, 
 chesnuts, walnuts, and other trees ; and occasionally there are vines 
 in great profusion, and very flourishing. The whole scenery of this 
 mountain-pass was truly enchanting. A long and steep descent 
 brought us into a fertile plain, now called Is Nik, which extends to the 
 lake of NicEea, and is beautifully watered by the clear streams that 
 crush out from the naked summits of the mountain. 
 
 On reaching the plain, we came to a few villages, from whence, in 
 about three hours, we arrived at Bazarkue, a town of some extent, but 
 apparently not populous, the houses being thinly scattered. About 
 five miles beyond it, we rested on the bank of a small river, flowing 
 among fields of barley, and bearded wheat, which were now enlivened 
 by the voice of the reaper. In passing the mountain, I observed 
 some villages of Armenian Christians. 
 
 We employed about six or seven hours in going from Bazarkue to 
 Broussa. The road is of various levels, and we passed one steep hill : 
 low wood and corn-lands diversified the scene. The situation of 
 Broussa is delightful : it is wooded on three sides, and enclosed on 
 the fourth by the opening bosom of Mount Olympus. The meaner 
 parts of the city, in this approach to it, are completely concealed ; 
 while the mosques, and superior buildings, are seen emerging from 
 the widely-spread verdure of lofty trees. Small streams descend 
 from the mountains behind, among the extensive and numerous 
 gardens, vineyards, and mulberry trees adorning the face of nature, 
 and exhilarating the mind with the prospect of never-ending plenty. 
 Some trees of extraordinary size, particularly walnuts, adorn the 
 approach to Broussa, which is almost as celebrated as Damascus for 
 its beauty, its waters, and the abundance of its fruits. 
 
 The distance from Scudar to Nicomedia is fifteen hours ; and we 
 employed about sixteen and a half more in our journey from Kara 
 Mursal to Broussa. 
 
 The baths of Bix)ussa are noted : several warm springs are seen in 
 the vicinity ; some are chalybeate, others sulphureous. That which
 
 ASIA MINOR. 2QQ 
 
 is caJled Kaplutcha Hanimam, is situated north-west, or north-west by 
 north, of the city, at the distance of nearly a mile and a half from the 
 gate : it is but slightly impregnated with sulphur, and the heat of the 
 water does not exceed 100° of Fahrenheit, A very spacious and 
 commodious apartment, not much less, probably, than a hundred feet 
 long (though I had not an opportunity of measuring it) and proportion- 
 ably wide, forms the anti-chamber to a second room, almost equally 
 spacious. The temperature of the latter is warmer. The center of 
 each is occupied by a sumptuous marble fountain, yielding a copious 
 stream of pure and cold water, for the purpose of drinking. A third 
 apartment, which is circular, and of smaller dimensions, though still 
 very spacious, and of higher temperature, is appropriated to bathers. 
 It contains a circular piscina, or pool, not less than twenty-five feet in 
 diameter. Two marble steps are continued round it, and the water is 
 about four feet and a half deep. The cupola, which forms the roof, is 
 lofty ; and there are six niches, with large marble basins, in the sides : 
 the walls are lined with coloured tiles, but the pavement is of marble. 
 The whole is sumptuous, and commodiously disposed ; and the at- 
 tendants are numerous, skilful, and active. 
 
 In the pool the youth of Broussa and its neighbourhood divert 
 themselves : some go there to learn to swim ; others to practise 
 swimming; others merely to amuse or to wash themselves. The 
 water is sufficiently clear, and the building is kept tolerably clean : 
 decency and order are scrupulously observed. The price to Moham- 
 medans is very moderate. '■' A few paces distant, is a building of the 
 same form, distribution, and dimensions ; and under similar regu- 
 lations, but attended by women, supplies the same accommodations 
 to the other sex. 
 
 Broussa is not well built, but it is populous and extensive. A 
 certain degree of cleanliness prevails in the streets, and the air, un- 
 questionably, is salubrious. Some of the mosques are spacious and 
 
 • For mere admission, and the use of the Water, only two paras are paid ; but twelve 
 or fifteen if attendance and the use of soap and linen are required.
 
 J , Q ASIA MINOR. 
 
 elegant, thougli inferior to several of those at Constantinople. To- 
 wards the N. W. is an extended plain, bounded N. W., N. and W. by 
 mountains ; which, though not of very considerable height, add 
 oreatly to the beauty and grandeur of the scene. This plain, or vale, 
 tor it is both, resembles, in some degree, the environs of Damascus, 
 with which those of Broussa may well admit of a comparison. The 
 force of the present impression, or the faintness of that which I re- 
 tained at the distance of four years, made me doubtful which merited 
 the preference. 
 
 Clear and beautiful streams descending from the heights, spon- 
 taneously irrigate the trees and flowers, give life and fertility to the 
 plain, and yield to the favoured inhabitants a constant succession of 
 the most delicious fruits, and the richest harvests. Not to be soothed 
 by the scenery of Broussa is to be destitute of all feeling ; or cursed 
 with that of misery and despair. Here indeed it is, and at Damascus, 
 (if any where,) that the destroying frenzy of the race of Othman 
 seems to have been arrested in its career ; and its menaces success- 
 fully defied by the productive powers of indulgent nature. 
 
 Of the temper and habits of the people more experience would be 
 necessary to enable me to speak with accuracy. They are, com- 
 paratively, insulated ; and, therefore, their ignorance and fanaticism 
 cannot be supposed less strong or less general than in other parts of 
 Asia Minor. It is fortunate if they be not greater, which from the 
 report of Christians of the place may reasonably be suspected. 
 Of their persons it may be said, that they are often tall, and that 
 many of them have well formed limbs, a graceful carriage, and 
 regular and interesting features. Many also, it may be observed, 
 appeared to have reached an advanced age : a farther proof, if any 
 were wanting, of the salubrity of the air. 
 
 My walks in the neighbourhood of Broussa furnished many frag- 
 ments of stone covered with sulphureous incrustations. In other 
 places are seen stalactites and stalagmites. Some cypresses are pre- 
 served of enormous growth : one of them between the city and the
 
 ASIA MINOR. Ijj 
 
 bath, I found by measurement, at one foot above the root, to be nine- 
 teen feet in the girth. 
 
 Broussa stands in the parallel of 40° 9' 30" N. lat., and is about 
 9' 30" E. of the merid. of the Seraglio, or 29° 4' 45 " E. G. I ob- 
 served, during my stay there in the month of June, the thermometer 
 sometimes stood at 88° ; but the heat is seldom excessive. 
 
 Between my first visit to Broussa in June 1801, and my second 
 in June 1802, a dreadful fire had destroyed almost one half of the 
 city. The natives say that it was the best half, and contained the 
 most elegant and valuable buildings ; and they pretend that the 
 stone edifices offered no effectual resistance to the flames, but perished 
 almost as soon as those of timber. The conflagration terminated at 
 the gate of Sarmakesh Khan, a spacious building where I lodged. A 
 considerable portion of the houses had already been rebuilt ; but they 
 were constructed principally of timber, and so slightly and hastily put 
 together, that a stranger might almost imagine it was the intention 
 of the builders to facilitate the return of a similar calamity. 
 
 Tiie inhabitants of Broussa are said to exceed sixty thousand souls ; 
 and it is reported, on some foundation, that the Mohammedans are in 
 number nearly fifty thousand. The Armenians are about seven 
 thousand, of whom a hundred and twenty families are rich, and carry 
 on a valuable trade ; indeed, none of that nation are absolutely poor 
 at Broussa. There are three thousand Greeks, and eighteen hundred 
 Jews. 
 
 A great quantity of silk is produced in the environs of Broussa, and 
 is manufactured into articles of various kinds. 
 
 I visited the Armenian bishop, who is a very distinguished person- 
 age, and exercises despotic power over those of his own nation ; many 
 of whom dwell around him in a fauxbourg of the city, in which their 
 church is situated. The bishop had an intelligent countenance, and a 
 most reverend beard. His demeanour was civil, with some mixture of 
 hierarchical importance. He conversed with me on the present situ- 
 ation of Egypt, and the policy of several European states with regard 
 to Turkey. His questions were, many of them, pertinent, and some 
 of his observations sensible and just. He could by no means believe
 
 ,,„ ASIA MINOR. 
 
 that the British intended to evacuate Egypt ; " which," he said, " would 
 expose that country to evils much greater than it before suffered, and, 
 ultimately, to a repetition of invasion." 
 
 The Armenian church narrowly escaped the conflagration before 
 mentioned. It was saved by demolishing all the private houses near 
 it. They assert, that it would have been impossible to rebuild it, on 
 account of the Mahometan women of Broussa being particularly 
 furious ao'ainst Christians. On some late occasion, when it had be- 
 come necessjiry to repair the church, a party of these amazons, 
 to^etiier, it is said, with some men dressed in female apparel and 
 instigated by a fanatical saint, tumultuously assembled. The saint 
 declared, " that every nail which was driven, operated as a new 
 wound in the body of the prophet ;" and the mob destroyed all the 
 repairs that had been made. The same spirit of insubordination in 
 the inhabitants curbs the government. An attempt was made to 
 establish a new custom-house ; but the Ghiumrukji, or douanier, 
 was obliged to seek his safety in flight. 
 
 I have already observed that the appearance of the people is un- 
 usually healthy, A medical practitioner, however, informed me that 
 dropsies, and pulmonary complaints are not unfrequent ; and that 
 there are even some instances of scurvy. But his observations may 
 have been made among the Christians, who are intemperate in the 
 use of spirits, and salt provisions. Most of them, he says, make 
 three regular meals in a day, and, consequently, are always in a state 
 of repletion. The air, however, it may be remarked, must be keen, 
 and is probably favourable to digestion. I saw scarcely a cripple or 
 deformed person : no instance of leprosy ; and but iew of cutaneous 
 eruptions. Wine is not allowed to be publickly sold ; and the 
 Mussulmen are not accused of intemperance in drinking. 
 
 The snow was still visible in many parts of the ridge of Mount 
 Olympus *, on the 29th June, when we advanced towards Kutaieh, 
 
 * Called in Turkish j-cUi ^^"-^'-^ or mountain of the religious, from ^Jij^, a monk 
 or priest.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 113 
 
 by a road running at the foot of it, for about three hours ; it then 
 gradually leaves towards the right the chain of mountains, which takes 
 a course more S. E. * Several small streams, descending from 
 Olympus, cross the road. The ground at first, for some distance, is 
 rocky and unproductive ; but as we advanced farther it was better 
 cultivated ; and wheat and barley overspread the surface. On the 
 banks of a small stream, near which we rested for the first time, about 
 four hours from Broussa, I observed several plants of Papyrus, or, at 
 least, of a Cyperus so much resembling it as not to be distinguished 
 in its then nascent state. Early on the second day we passed a large 
 village, whose name I have not accurately recorded, and soon after 
 came to a smaller, called Ortakue. The road here lay through a 
 wood, where I observed the largest flocks of sheep that I have ever 
 seen in Turkey. The shepherds told me that the number there col- 
 lected exceeded seven thousand : they were driven to this spot for 
 the advantage of being sheltered by the trees from the sun. 
 
 * It is to be feared that there is little chance of recovering the valuable papers which 
 the Oriental traveller, Seetzen, left behind him. The Editor has lately met with extracts 
 from one or two letters addressed by him to M. Blumenback. They are published in a 
 work not common in England, and may therefore be properly introduced here, as illus- 
 trating part of the Journal of Mr. Browne ; a man, who, like Seetzen, possessed many 
 of those qualifications so necessary to a traveller in the East. " Iiineris Orientalis 
 Spartam iiiire, tueri, complere," says the editor of Forskal's papers, " non cujusvis genii 
 et ingenii est." 
 
 " De Bursa nous fimes une petite excursion sur I'Olympe Mysien, montagne cclebre, 
 couverte dc ncigc. La region moyenne est composee de granlt; la region superieure de 
 marbre salin sans la moindre trace de petrification. Le sommet le plus eleve, au pied 
 duqucl nous fimes des observations astronomiques, n'offre pres(|ue point de vegetation ; 
 cependant j'y ai trouve asscz frequemment la myosotis scorpioides arvensis." 
 
 The following remark also respecting the Mineralogy of Asia Minor, is worthy of 
 observation. 
 
 " Dans cette course j'ai eu occasion d'enrichir mon journal de plusieurs observations 
 interessantes relatives a la mineralogie. Pres de Chanissa, I'ancienne Magnesia ad 
 Sipylum, j'ai trouve bcaucou|) do porphyie vert. Les montagncs des environs de Smyrne 
 sent pour la plujiart de porpliyrc brun, approchant quelquefois d'une nuance bleuatre; il 
 n' etincelle que fort peu sous le briquet. J'ai ete fort surpris de n' avoir pas encore trouve 
 une seule trace bicn deterraiiiee de petrification dans toute la partie de i'Asie MIneure que 
 j'ai parcourue." 
 
 VOL. II. Q
 
 114 
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 The soil in this wood has :i red, oclireous appearance in some 
 places ; but the greatest part is a deep vegetable mould. Soon after- 
 ward begins the ascent of the mountain, which is covered with a 
 forest of various foliage ; consisting chiefly of large and luxuriant 
 beeches. Our course the first day was due E., then S. E. by our 
 compass. 
 
 After a long and difficult ascent of nearly four hours, we reached 
 the summit, near to which is a plot of verdant grass, and a spring 
 flowing down on the south side of the mountain. This point is very 
 elevated : the wind blew strong, and the thermometer stood at nearly 
 thirty degrees lower than it had been in the plain ; a change of 
 temperature produced partly by the elevation, and partly by the ap- 
 proach of night. 
 
 At sun-rise we beoan to descend. Few beech trees are visible 
 after having passed the summit, but their place is supplied by firs and 
 oaks. This ridge appears to be principally calcareous : I did not 
 observe any granite. Near the end of the descent, we came to the 
 banks of a swift brook, which runs west, and forms, I understood, a 
 part of the river Mikalizza. One of the scourges of unhappy Asia, 
 the wide-wasting locust, had already overspread and destroyed all the 
 vegetables within its reach, to the south of the mountain's summit. 
 Some fields of poppies, however, were not yet ravaged. The wood 
 we passed through was formerly famed for being the resort of ban- 
 ditti and assassins ; but the Pasha of Kutaieh, who claims it as a part of 
 his domain, had lately rendered it more secure. A great variety of 
 plants and wild flowers enlivens and adorns the earth, within the wood 
 and its vicinity ; and the scenery is in a high degree picturesque and 
 romantic. 
 
 To this first descent succeeded a forest of pines, at the end of 
 which was a stony, open country ; yielding, however, a moderate crop 
 of barley, wheat, lentils, and other vegetables, a small part of wliicli 
 had escaped the attack of the locust. A large farm, or chiftlick, 
 presented itself on the right, formerly belonging to Toushjin Pasha, 
 but then to Kara Osman Oglo. I also observed, near the road.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 115 
 
 a few scattered columns of small dimensions, and which do not appear 
 to have belonged to any important edifice. Part of the soil is chalky ; 
 but some rocks are seen, the superficies of which is perforated and 
 cellular, and they have altogether a remarkable appearance. 
 
 Toushanlu, where we arrived on the first of July, is a town con- 
 taining seven mosques, with minarets. A small castle, situated on an 
 elevation, appears to the N. N. W. The town is somewhat popu- 
 lous : one khan is inhabited principally by Armenians ; but the 
 people are chiefly JNIohammedans, as are those of almost all the 
 villages in this road. The stork is very frequent in the whole of this 
 district, and uncommonly domestic. 
 
 From Toushanlu to Kutaieh, is a journey of about eight hours, 
 S. E. in which we passed only one village. The soil between them is 
 httle cultivated, and covered with low bushes and brambles : amoncr 
 which wild flowers are interspersed. The soil is various, being in 
 some places stony, in other parts clay, and in other red marl. Near 
 Kutaieh is a plain, tolerably cultivated, but the crops appear at pre- 
 sent very backward, perhaps from the coldness of the soil. Through 
 the plain runs a river, which is a branch of the Sangaris. Trees are 
 rare ; and the devastation of the locust was conspicuous far and wide. 
 We met a number of carts laden with salt, which is produced in the 
 interior, and transported to the extremities of Anatolia ; commerce, 
 in other respects, seemed almost extinct. The structures in this 
 quarter consist of stone and wood intermingled ; the roofs are of wood, 
 and very rough. 
 
 Kutaieh is a city of some extent, but its buildings are neither 
 sumptuous nor beautiful. It is well supplied with water ; and pro- 
 visions and horses are cheap. The population does not seem to 
 be great. The south side is protected by a mountain on which 
 are the walls of a ruined castle. It furnishes a khan or two with 
 apartments for travellers. Two hours and a half from Kutaieh, on 
 the road to Kara-hissar, is seen a bridge over a small river running 
 north-west, and near which are some trees. The soil is partly stony 
 and partly clay, not favourable to vegetation. Three hours and a 
 
 Q 2
 
 j^g ASIA MINOR. 
 
 half farther, is a ruined khan. The country is open ; and there are 
 no villao-es. We passed for six hours and a half through a tract over- 
 spread with bushes and brambles, though the soil was good. There 
 were many hills, but none of them lofty. We stopped near a 
 miserable village, where no provisions could be procured, except 
 milk. The houses are of unburned brick : the inhabitants told me 
 that the lands near them were divided between five Agas or landed 
 proprietors. A single well supplies them with water. Wood for fuel, 
 from Kutaieli onward, is very scarce. At the end of five hours and 
 a half, we came to a considerable hill, the descent of which employed 
 us near an hour. A small river runs east through the vale below ; 
 and near it are seen a hot spring and a bath : one such is found near 
 Toushanlu, and it is said there are several moi-e in this part of 
 Anatolia. Trees and cultivation were here less rare : the locust, how- 
 ever, covered the soil, and had left no verdure between Kutaieh and 
 Kara-hissar. From the bath, near which is a village or two, we 
 reached in three hours Kara-hissar. 
 
 In Afium-Kara-hissar, the ancient Apamea, we lodged in a decent 
 khan : part of the building is of stone, part of unburned brick ; great 
 quantities of which are prepared in the neighbourhood, the clay being- 
 tenacious and well adapted to that purpose. A whiter and finer 
 argil is found near Kutaieh, of which a coarse porcelain is made. 
 There is also a manufacto)-y of painted tiles, used in Turkey for adorn- 
 ing the interior of baths, and for other purposes. Few appearances 
 of commerce are observable in travelling ; and there is little Industry 
 In the towns, beyond what is required for the supply of immediate 
 necessaries. The inhabitants are sober, honest, and inoffensive, 
 though their faculties are little developed. Kara-hissar is a mart for 
 opium : it is brought to market frequently by the indigent cultivator 
 in cakes of a few ounces in weight, and purchased cheap * by the 
 
 • The price at jjreseiit is from ten to eleven piastres the 250 drachms, wliich is the oke 
 or weight by which this commodity is sold. The words Opium and Afiun) or Aphium of 
 the Orientals are doubtless both derived from the Greek i-Kiov, juice of poppies, the root of
 
 ASIA MINOR. 117 
 
 merchants who are somewliat richer, and who having thus collected 
 a quantity, chs[)ose of it to the European factors at Smyrna or other 
 parts of the coast. 
 
 The population of Kara-hissar, I have reason to believe, is not in- 
 ferior to that of Kutaieh, though the town is somewhat smaller. A 
 castle, in which some French prisoners are now confined, is situated 
 to the west of it on an insulated rock. On tlie N. W. and W. S. W. 
 are also rocks : on the E. and N. the country spreads out into a fruit- 
 ful plain. 
 
 Bread is of indifferent quality : mutton and beef are nine or tea 
 paras the oke ; the latter is most common : the other articles in the 
 market appear to be only those of constant and general home con- 
 sumption. Provisions are supposed to be cheaper at Angora and 
 Konieh than in any part of Anatolia. 
 
 The government of Kara-hissar is said to be tolerably good, being 
 administered by a deputy, who dares not be guilty of any glaring 
 excesses. The houses have all flat roofs, resemblino; those of Ara- 
 bistan. Nine or ten mosques are seen, each of which is adorned with 
 a minaret. From the exposed situation of the place, the cold of 
 winter and the heat of summer are both excessive. The roads were 
 represented as very dangerous ; being infested by disbanded troops, 
 who plundered in considerable bodies. 
 
 Having left Afium-kara-hissar, we travelled with a more numerous 
 caravan than before, by the high road, through a plain open country, 
 till we came to Ak-shehr. Three hours from Kara-hissar is seen a 
 coffee-house ; and a little farther on, a village called Ishaklu, which in 
 itself is inconsiderable, but is surrounded by extensive gardens of 
 fruit-trees, particularly pears. The lake on the left was visible at 
 day-break ; and we soon came to another coffee-house, delightfully 
 
 which is otto;, "juice," generally. Apainea has |)robably quite a different derivation, but 
 the Turks call the place Afiiini-kara-hissar, " the castle of the opium district," without 
 any reference, perhaps, to the sound of the ancient name.
 
 223 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 situated on a high ground, near a spring of excellent water, which 
 forms a stream descending into the lake. Some trees beautify this 
 spot, but the face of the country soon becomes again open and un- 
 interesting. About half an hour before entering Ak-shehr, 1 observed 
 two fragments of a very solid wall, to the right of the road, under the 
 hill, which appear to be ancient. Other fragments of hewn stone are 
 visible about the city, but dispersed and no way considerable. 
 
 On entering Ak-shehr, a large mosque presents itself on the right, 
 sumptuously built of marble, but now dilapidated. A wide plain 
 opens itself on the left, of light soil, indifferently cultivated. Locusts 
 still overspread the surface. Not far from Ak-shehr, to the west, a 
 road is seen traversing the mountain to the right, which is said to 
 lead directly to Caraman.* 
 
 In this part of Anatolia, the dress of the Mohammedans of the 
 upper class is the same as elsewhere. The males of the lower order 
 wear drawers of cotton, either blue or white, with jackets coarsely 
 embroidered of woollen yarn, of different lengths, but some of them 
 not above five or six inches deep, and consequently covering only the 
 shoulders and part of the arm. The women, as usual, live retired, 
 but are not all covered with veils. The Christians are many of them 
 of the Greek ritual, and are found in the towns where commerce col- 
 lects them ; but seldom in the villages, which are inhabited by 
 peasantry. Their habits of life, and their morals, resemble those of 
 the IVIohammedans, by whom I did not find they were treated with 
 harshness, except it be in affairs relating to the government. 
 They differ materially in features and manner from those of the 
 islands, and of Constantinople ; and while their address is more rude 
 and unpolished, they are at least without the exterior of servility 
 which characterises the latter. They generally wear a turban of blue 
 cloth round a white felt caouk, or cap. 
 
 • Olivier, Voyage, &c. torn. vi. p. 385., finds that the site of Larauda, where there are 
 said to be ancient remains, is a league and a half north of the present town Caraman.
 
 ASIA MINOR. ] 19 
 
 Butchers' meat was scarce at Ak-shehr ; and even the bread was 
 of very inferior quaUty. Burghul is a principal article of food : 
 it is wheat, first dried artificially, the husk removed, and then 
 softened by boiling. The khan is dirty and inconvenient. The 
 market is supplied with a few leather manufactures, smiths' shops, 
 vestments, harness, sadlery, all of the coarsest kind. Three sides of 
 the town are surrounded by a plain country ; the fourth is terminated 
 by a mountain. Eight minarets are visible : the edifices are, some of 
 them, constructed of stone, the remainder of unburned brick : many 
 of them are in a state of decay. The town is extensive, but far from 
 populous. From Kara-hissar to Ak-shehr I reckoned twenty-one 
 hours consumed in the route. 
 
 Leaving this city, the mountain ridge declines more to the S. E., 
 and the road in an E. by S. direction. The Katergk, alarmed at the 
 reports which they had heard of disbanded Delatea, quitted the high 
 road, and pursued one which is less frequented, and a little to the 
 south of it. Harkut-kue, a village, was the first place we came to ; 
 and the second was El-kin, or El-ghin : in the last reside an Aga and a 
 Cadi. A few fragments of columns are seen in the neiohbourhood. 
 As the country abounds with clay, the structures are chiefly of rude 
 bricks made of clay mixed with straw. From Ak-shehr to Elkin is 
 considered as a journey of nine hours : the same open and extended 
 plain continues from Kara-hissar, with the exception of a few in- 
 equalities ; and trees are seen only near the villages. The soil is of 
 various kinds ; clay, chalk, and stony : but very partially cultivated. 
 
 Large flocks of broad-tailed sheep, mingled with goats, were some- 
 times visible ; horned cattle are also numerous. This district, from 
 Elkin eastward, is within the pashalic of Konieh, which was admi- 
 nistered by the son of Seid Achmet, Pasha of Siwas, a name well 
 known in the empire. 
 
 From Elkin onward the face of the country is more diversified by 
 hills and rocks : few villases are seen from the road ; and the in- 
 habitants with whom I had occasion to converse, complained of op- 
 pression from the government. Some fields of wheat, which appeared
 
 J20 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 to be healthy, and some crops of barley yet unripe, (on the 18th of 
 July,) formed the whole amount of the tillage for several miles. The 
 remaining surface was overspread by the spontaneous vegetation of 
 thorn-bushes, junipers, long coarse grass, and other plants equally 
 unprofitable. 
 
 Having passed two small streams, over which are bridges, we en- 
 camped in a large grove of walnut trees, at the foot of a ridge of 
 mountains running from S. W. to N. E. The ascent of this ridge 
 employed about three quarters of an hour ; and we were five hours 
 more alternately ascending and descending, when at length we gained 
 a distant view of the extensive plain of Konieh. We passed a 
 miserable village on the hill, which a party of soldiers from Konieh 
 had just been plundering ; and in an hour and a half more, by a steep 
 descent, reached the large village called Silli ; which, however, is poor 
 and destitute of provisions. The caravan passed the night there, and 
 the following day advanced to Konieh : this city, though ruinous, is 
 sufficiently marked by the remains which it still presents, as the 
 ancient Iconium. The whole of this road is rocky until we came to 
 Silli ; and employed about eight hours. The air of Silli has the 
 reputation of being salubrious, and the situation is agreeable. The 
 inhabitants of Konieh come occasionally to divert themselves in the 
 gardens around it, which appear to be very extensive. We could only 
 obtain there a few apricots and dried wheat (Burghul). The natives 
 seem to be muscular, and of a fair complexion ; but they appear 
 distrustful ; and we saw but few of them. They consist of jNIoham- 
 medans and Christians. 
 
 A variety of mineral substances is seen in the mountainous ridge, 
 which we passed. In one place I remarked red and white, in an- 
 other blue and white marble ; in another fluor ; in a third pyrites ; 
 limestone and a hard blue stone in the highest part. In descending, 
 we saw schistus resembling our slate, the laminj^ of which are 
 vertical : near the slate is an appearance of something like coal ; and 
 nearer to the village, chalk and other calcareous substances ; finally, 
 in some places micaceous sand, and in others clay. Fuel is scarce in 
 this neighbourhood ; and not unfrequently the natives have recourse
 
 ASIA MINOR. 121 
 
 to the same method as in Egypt, of drying the dung of animals on the 
 walls of their houses, and afterwards burning it. The herbs which 
 grow on the mountain afford some food to the beasts of burden ; and 
 firs and oaks (the latter of diminutive size) diversify its rocky surface. 
 Among them are scattered a few plants of Cistus, and other flowering 
 shrubs. 
 
 We advanced from Silli twenty minutes S. by E. ; when at length 
 coming into the high road in an hour and forty minutes more, we 
 arrived at Konieh. The calcareous rocks of Silli terminate in the 
 extensive plain of Konieh, which is very productive, and com- 
 paratively well cultivated. 
 
 The scanty population and sliapeless mud hovels of the present 
 day, the abode of poverty and wretchedness, are strongly contrasted 
 with what still remains of the spacious and lofty walls of the Greek 
 city. The only buildings, which form any exception to the general 
 desolation, are three or four good mosques, but especially the splendid 
 Tekie or Monastery of Mewlawy Derwishes, the first among such 
 buildings in the Turkish empire, and universally celebrated. Its 
 cupola, covered with shining green tiles, is conspicuous from afar. 
 The tomb of the founder is of black marble : it is known by the 
 name of jMulla Hunkiar. Voluntary contributions are brought to 
 the fraternity from all quarters, and from very distant regions : even 
 the Emperor of Morocco, according to their report, annually sends 
 them a hundred pieces of gold. Notwithstanding the celebrity and 
 comparative opulence of this institution, there is reason to believe 
 that it is one of the most decent and respectable of the monastic orders 
 in the Turkish empire. 
 
 The order was founded bv Jalal-ed-din Mohammed, Ben Moham- 
 med, el Balkhi, el Konawi, (also named INIulla Hunkiar.) who lived at 
 Konieh, where he was regarded as a saint, and visited by Ertoghrul, 
 the father of the first Othman, who recommended his son to the 
 saint's prayers. He died at that place A. II. 672. (1273.) 
 
 The Mewlawis have the tenth place in the chronological enumeration 
 of these orders, which have their date as early as the first century of 
 
 VOL. II. R
 
 ]22 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Mohammedism. There are, in the whole, not less than twenty-tour 
 distinct bodies, each wearing a different habit and observing different 
 rules. The extravagancies of the Rufayis, as well as the dances and 
 music of the Mewlawis, are well known from the descriptions given 
 by many travellers ; and the history of the various establishments of 
 Derwishes would be no more than that of many of the monastic 
 orders of Christendom, a disgusting and monotonous history of the 
 deplorable effects of fanaticism, imposture, and creduHty. 
 
 Some of these institutions, however, boast a few characters re- 
 spectable for their talents and learning. Jalal-ed-diri was the 
 author of the JMithnawi, in which the use of music and the dance is 
 tauglit. It is written in elegant Persian verse, and contains the rules 
 of the order, with a variety of moral reflections and maxims on 
 several sul))ects. Many commentaries have been written upon it. 
 The well-known Turkish and Persian vocabulary, in verse, was written 
 by the iMewlawi Shahidi, which, whatever be its other merits, (upon 
 which I do not presume to decide,) is unquestionably well adapted to 
 assist the memory of young persons. 
 
 The laws of few or none of these societies oblige individuals to 
 celibacy ; and it is only in the Tekie or convent of IMewlawis at 
 Konieh, that such of the fraternity as are married are not permitted 
 to pass the night. Though all the orders of Derwishes may be re- 
 garded as mendicant, none of them are expressly permitted to solicit 
 alms, except the Bektashis, and even these are never importunate. 
 The majority are sufficiently instructed in some art or trade to main- 
 tain themselves by their own industry. Finally, none of them are 
 bound by an oath to their order for life, but may return to society, 
 and resume any occupation that suits them. Of this last privilege, 
 however, they seldom avail themselves. The general of each order 
 appoints the superior of each Tekie, who is always one of tiie senior 
 Derwishes. All the orders are vmder the supreme jurisdiction of the 
 Mufti at Constantinople. 
 
 The Tekie at Konieh is known to possess very considerable pro- 
 perty in Wakfs ; but not even a conjecture can be offered as to the
 
 ASIA MINOR. 123 
 
 amount. No external appearance of wealth presents itself to the 
 eye, and the mode of living is in all respects simple and frugal. 
 
 The price of provisions at Konieh, though advanced considerably be- 
 yond what it was formerly, is still moderate, and even low. Eight 
 paras is the price of an oke of meat (400 drachms). Three paras are 
 paid for an equal quantity of milk. Bread enough for three persons 
 costs one para. The bread is formed into thin cakes of more than 
 three feet in length, and about eight inches in breadth : it is white, 
 and of good flavour. Within about thirty years, it is said that a 
 horse might have been amply fed for a night at one para. Water is 
 obtained from wells alone. Salt may be procured for little more than 
 the carriage. 
 
 A considerable quantity of ordinary yellow leather for shoes and 
 other purposes is manufactured at Konieh, part of which is carried 
 to Egypt and Syria, Arms and articles of clothing are sold cheap : 
 ourKaterdgis purchased some of each, and slippers and small carpets, 
 with a view of disposing of them with advantage at Aleppo and 
 other parts of Syria. 
 
 Without the walls is a bath, formerly a magnificent Saracenic 
 structure, with an octagon chapel, or mosque adjoining it : these are 
 now in ruins. Near the first gate is a large statue without a head ; 
 and higher up, on the wall, a row of figures in alto relievo. The wall 
 itself contains many other ancient sculptures ; and several inscriptions 
 in Arabic characters. It is strongly built ; flanked by numerous 
 square towers ; very extensive and highly ornamented. 
 
 The people are rude and uncivilized, and in no degree remarkable 
 for industry. Their dress does not differ from what has been 
 before described. The Armenians and Greeks have each of them a 
 church, and some Jews are found there.
 
 124 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 JOURNEY FROM KONIEH TO ANTIOCH. 
 
 Yesh'il. — Kara-hignar. — Erakli. — Passage of Mount Taurus. — Turkmans. — Tarsus ; 
 and thence to the Coast. — Embarkation. — Voyage to Aisus, and thence across the Moun- 
 tain to Antioch. — Some Account of Antioch. — Remarks. — ProdiKtions and Trade. — 
 Kutchuk Ali Pasha. — Departure from Antioch. — Arrival at Lndikie. — Maronite 
 Farmer of the Miri. — Mischievous Santon. — Passage to Larneka in Cj/pnis. 
 
 The Katerdgis at first proposed to themselves to proceed to Caraman, 
 which they considered as the shortest and best road to the coast : but 
 having heard that the place was invaded by a large troop of Dellis, 
 they determined to advance by the straight road to Erakli. We 
 went from Konieh to Yeshil in nine hours, through a widely extended 
 plain of excellent soil, in which scarcely a stone is visible, now lying 
 waste, though not long since extensively cultivated. Yeshil is 
 inhabited by peasants who till the ground ; without any appearance 
 of commerce or manufactory. The buildings are constructed of un- 
 burned bricks. The plain, in which Yeshil stands, is often over- 
 flowed, and the village, which presents a naked appearance, being 
 wholly destitute of trees, is built on a small eminence, like many of 
 those in Egypt. We rested here at a private house. From Yeshil 
 we travelled ten hours, without intermission, to Kara-bignar ; a town 
 consisting principally of mud hovels. The only remarkable edifices 
 are a mosque, and the khan in which we rested ; both built on an 
 uniform plan. They were raised at the expense of an eunuch of one 
 of the Emperors, with the wealth obtained by plundering his master. 
 These buildings ai'e spacious and substantial ; the khan is about four 
 hundred feet long, and a hundred wide ; but is now in a state of 
 decay. There are some fragments of alabaster columns adjoining to 
 the mosque.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 125 
 
 A manufacture of gunpowder is carried on at Kara-bignar ; and 
 tlie women prepare a kind of socks for the feet, of coarse woollen 
 yarn, which are very strong and warm, and much sought after by 
 travellers in winter : they are sold for nine or ten paras the pair. 
 Apricots and other fruits abound, but of no exquisite flavour. The 
 soil is rich and fertile ; and continues to be so till within about two 
 hours' distance of Kara-bignar, when it becomes rocky. 
 
 The route from Kara-bignar to Erakli employed us about twelve 
 hours ; the road is over a sandy plain, which is little cultivated. 
 Erakli, however, is agreeably situated in the midst of gardens full of 
 fruit and forest trees. About forty minutes from the city, beo-ins the 
 ascent of the mountainous ridge, a continuation of Taurus. It em- 
 ployed us nearly five hours to reach the summit. The Katerdgis, not 
 knowing the road, were obliged to take guides from Erakli to conduct 
 them. A little farther we came to a small village, near which I saw, 
 perhaps, an acre or two of cultivated land. The Turkmans, with their 
 flocks, dwelling under tents, inhabit this almost inaccessible region. A 
 series of stupendous bare x'ocks succeeds to the first summit. The air 
 is cool and salubrious, even in the hottest season ; and pellucid springs 
 give spirit and animation to the scene. The summit of this primi- 
 tive ridge is composed of a large grained marble ; other calcareous 
 substances recline on its ample sides, or are upheaved by its frequent 
 asperities. They are all of tiiem massy rocks, without anv appear- 
 ance of strata. A number of very ancient cedars, whose stunted 
 growth and fantastic branches cast a gloomy shade, diversify the rug- 
 ged sides of the mountain. 
 
 In my visits to the Turkman tents, I remarked a strong contrast 
 between their habits and those of the Bedouin Arabs. With the 
 latter, the rights of hospitality are inviolable ; and while the host 
 possesses a cake of bread, he feels it a duty to furnish half of it to his 
 guest ; the Turkman offers nothing spontaneously, and if lie furnish 
 a little milk or butter, it is at an exorbitant price. With him it is a 
 matter of calculation, whether the compendious profit of a single act 
 of plunder, or the more ignoble system of receiving presents from the
 
 J 2^ ASIA MINOR. 
 
 caravans for their secure passage, be most advantageous. The Arab 
 vahies huiiself on the hash zve 7iasb*, that is, his ancient pedigree ; 
 the Turkman, on his personal prowess. With the former, civiHty re- 
 quires that sahitations be protracted to satiety; the latter scarcely 
 replies to a Salmn a/eikum. 
 
 The muleteers, who had preferred this devious path to the high road, 
 to avoid the Dellis, were now alarmed at the frequent visits of the 
 Turkmans. They described me to them as an officer of Chappan 
 Oo-lou's retinue, employed to communicate with the English fleet on 
 the coast ; an explanation which appeared to satisfy them ; and fortu- 
 natelv I was able to support that character. It is to be observed that 
 Chappan Oglou has a large military force at his disposal, and ad- 
 ministers justice with a rod of iron. His vengeance pursues, on 
 eacrle-wing, the slightest transgression against his authority. Our 
 precautions at night were redoubled ; and I divided the time into two 
 watches, which I ordered my servant to share with me ; but the dis- 
 position to sleep having speedily got the better of his vigilance, a 
 pipe, although carefully placed under the carpet on which I myself 
 slept, was stolen unperceived before morning. 
 
 The dress of the Turkmans consists of a large striped and fringed 
 turban, fastened in a manner peculiar to themselves ; or sometimes 
 
 * " i^.-~-uow (Hhasab, or Hash,) bears in Arabic (among other significations) that of dignity, 
 reputation, estimation, nobility, &c. j wa, is the copulative particle, andj c-.--i'i (Nasab, 
 Nasb,) signifies genealogy, lineage, origin of a family,&c. l- •' " "' j k_,-vu*»- Hasb wa Nasb, 
 or Hhasab wa Nasab, as it ought properly to be written and pronounced, ' digiiily and noble 
 origin of a family,' as in the following phrase by Saadud-din, the elegant historiographer of 
 the first Ottoman family : ^iw^yLi^'i i__?ja*»a.< d^y tU^^is- 1,5:'-^=^ i_J^ i_-~J y Bu Nasabe 
 Aalee Iduuahee hliaziate Nuhliah mansoob itmishlerdur, i.e. They have derived the origin 
 or genealogy of this most noble family from the patnifirc)) Noah ; or, Mansoob itmishlerdur, 
 they have referred ; hliazrate Nuhhah, to the patriarch Noah ; Bu Nasabe Aalee hhasabee, 
 theoriixiii of this exalted or most noble faniilv or lineage. 
 
 The same author employs the words Hhasab wa Nasab, in the subsequent phrase, and for 
 the same purpose, thus : ^^} (^jj^^ U"*'^^ J L_-v^k..»- *— ^r^ Shnrafc /i/iasab xoa ?iasab-tan 
 mahhroom ceken, " being destitute of nobility and high origin." — Note communicated 
 by Mr. Usko.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 127 
 
 of a simple high-crowned cap of white felt. A vest, usually white, is 
 thrown over the shirt ; the Aga's superadd one of cloth ; and in 
 general, and in proportion to their rank and wealth, they approximate 
 to the dress of the capital. But the common people wear a short 
 jacket of various colours. A cincture is indispensably required, in 
 which are fixed an enormous yatagan *, and a pistol. Many of them 
 wear half boots, red or yellow, laced to the leg : the dress of the women 
 is a coloured vest, and a piece of white cotton cloth on the head, 
 covering part of the face. Tiiey are masculine and active, performing 
 all the harder kinds of labour required by the family. Their features 
 are good, but not pleasing. The men are generally muscular, and 
 well proportioned ; tall, straight, and active. Their teeth are white 
 and regular ; their eyes are often extremely piercing ; and there is an 
 air of uncommon boldness in their countenances and mode of address. 
 Their complexions are clear, but sun-burnt. In a word, they have 
 every thing that denotes exhaustless health and vigour of body. A 
 general resemblance is visible between them and the populace of 
 Constantinople ; but the latter appear effeminate by the comparison. 
 Every action and every motion of the Turkmans is marked by dignity 
 and orace. Their language is clear and sonorous, but less soft than 
 that of the capital ; expressing, as may be conceived, no abstract 
 ideas, for which the Turkish is indebted to the Arabic alone ; but 
 fitted to paint the stronger passions, and to express, in the most 
 forcible and laconic terms, the mandates of authority. Their riches 
 consist of cattle, horses, arms, and various habiliments. How lament- 
 able to think, that with persons so interesting, and a character so ener- 
 getic, they unite such confirmed habits of idleness, violence, fraud, 
 and treachery ! From the rising of the sun till his disappearance, 
 the males are employed only in smoking, conversing, inspecting their 
 cattle, or visiting their acquaintance. They watch at night for the 
 
 * A sword with a broad painted blade, concave, and cutting with one edge, whicli is 
 nearly straight, or rather inclining inwards, in a contrary direction to the sabre.
 
 128 
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 purpose of plunder, which among them is honourable, in proportion 
 to (.lie ingenuity of the contrivance, or the audacity of the execution. 
 Their families are generally small, and there seems reason to believe 
 that their numbers are not increasing. My experience among them 
 was too short to enable me to point out the checks which operate to 
 counteract the natural tendency to multiply. They lately surprised 
 a party of disbanded cavalry, and made themselves masters of the 
 horses and booty. The riders were many of tliem killed, and the 
 remainder left to pursue their march on foot, unarmed and desti- 
 tute. 
 
 The destructive locust has not spared even the solitary domain of 
 these wandering tribes. An infinity of junipers and cedars over- 
 spreads the first descent of the mountain, which is long and steep, 
 and covered with loose stones. Those near the summit are granite 
 and hornblende : lower down, limestone is the prevailing substance. 
 The dwarf Elder, whose odour is very agreeable, skirts the mountain 
 at a certain height. The route from Erakli to Tarsus occupied in 
 the whole about twenty-nine hours. On the third day, we rode for 
 about a mile through the bed of a torrent, now dry, but occasionally 
 flowing between lofty and tremendous rocks. We soon after ascended 
 another ridge, inferior in height to the first : having crossed it, we con- 
 tinued our journey through a beautifully wooded valley, in which 
 there are a great variety of ornamental trees and shrubs. On one 
 side is a precipice descending to the dry bed of a torrent, and on both 
 lofty and almost perpendicular rocks, shaded with the most luxuriant 
 verdure. A few spots might be remarked which were caj)able of cul- 
 tivation ; but the valley contained many fragments of granite, mi- 
 caceous schistus, and limestone. Some of the rocks have a black 
 unctuous or shining appearance. 
 
 From the last resting place, another descent ensued, which at 
 length brought uh into an extensive plain, and shortly afterwards to 
 Tarsus, distant about three hours from the sea. Its site in summer 
 and autumn is deemed so unhealthv, that such of the inhabitants as 
 are able to remove elsewhere do not choose at that time to reside in
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 129 
 
 the city. It is a place of some commerce, but the circumstance just 
 mentioned gav^e it at this time an air of great dreariness. 
 
 Myrtles, Oleanders, Cyclamens, and a variety of other beautiful 
 plants, of the most luxuriant growth, overspread the plain from Tar- 
 sus to the sea, excepting where it is cultivated with Hashish or Hemp, 
 Bamia or Hibiscus esculentus, and Tobacco, to which the soil is 
 adapted, and which is at once cheap and of agreeable flavour. The 
 water of all these low lands, if used freely and without purification, 
 is said to produce fevers and dysenteries * ; yet the natives have in- 
 vented no method to render it salubrious. The fruits are abundant 
 and good. 
 
 I proposed to myself to pass into Syria, by way of Adene and Baias ; 
 but the rapine and cruelty of Kutchuk Ali Pasha had long before 
 compelled the caravans to seek another road. I did not readily find 
 a vessel for Cyprus ; and therefore resolved to accompany the 
 Katerdgis to Suadea and Antioch ; though the assemblage of twenty- 
 five mules and horses in a diminutive and fragile bark (shuktiir), 
 together with the company of a dozen vulgar, dirty, and noisy mule- 
 teers, did not promise much satisfaction or security on the voyage. 
 Respecting the latter, I readily anticipated that increasing nausea 
 would speedily terminate their vociferations and insolence ; and my 
 hopes were verified : the most boisterous among them became the 
 most pale, tame, and dejected ; and when landed, each congratulated 
 himself on having escaped from the jaws of death. In fact, off 
 Ras-el-chamir, a hurricane came on, which suddenly darkened the 
 atmosphere ; and the strong light made by pitch-makers on the 
 mountain above alone saved us from being driven aground, by 
 enabling the seamen to know their situation. 
 
 But notwithstanding all the exertions of the crew, who were 
 Greeks, it was impossible to weather Suadea ; and we found our- 
 
 * " Probably these complaints arise from an air infected with marsh effluvia, and not 
 from the water. It is a common error." I am indebted for this observation to an 
 eminent chemist. 
 
 VOL. II. S
 
 J2Q ASIA MINOR. 
 
 selves under the necessity of steering for Arsus, the ancient Rhesus, 
 which is more to the north. Here we were fortunate enough to hmd 
 on the following morning. 
 
 Three hours distant from Tarsus are situated a few houses near the 
 sea, where resides an officer, who is employed to collect certain duties 
 on exports and imports. The buildings there are narrow, dirty, and 
 every way wretched. Near to each house is an insulated room or 
 kiosk, to which the ascent is by a ladder, and where the natives in 
 summer pass much of their time. They enjoy in them a freer circu- 
 lation of air than below, and imagine that they in some measure avoid 
 the vapours which are more deleterious in proportion as they are near 
 to the surface of the earth. * Two inconsiderable villages were seen 
 in the plain before we reached the custom-house ; and in one of them 
 was a ruined fort seated on a small elevation. I observed also a line 
 of small towers, placed on rising grounds, most of them in a state of 
 decay, extended along the coast. 
 
 Advancing westward from the place where duties are paid, for 
 nearly two hours, in which space of time we crossed a small river, we 
 at length arrived at the spot where the boat (shuktiir) was in shallow 
 water. Two Greek ships were receiving cargoes of grain. jNIany of 
 the natives on this part of the coast speak Arabic. 
 '^I have already mentioned our voyage to Arsus, a miserable village, 
 which is built on a small river descending from the neighbouring 
 mountains. It contains a house for the Soubashi, another for the 
 Sheik, a mesjid or small mosque, and a street consisting of four shops 
 on each side, and about the same number scattered round. Wheat 
 and barley are not exported from thence : the price of the latter was 
 twenty paras the yaum, which is more than our peck, though not 
 amounting to two pecks. Tobacco of good quality was sold at the 
 price of 30 paras for 720 drachms. A Sheik, who administers legal 
 decisions, a Soubashi, and an Aga reside there occasionally. . But 
 
 * This idea is probably correct, and strengthens the conjecture in the preceding note, 
 
 rejjardinsj the innocence of tlie water.
 
 SYRIA. 131 
 
 tliougii the situation be well adapted for trade, the soil rich, and the 
 environs beautiful, such are the noxious (qualities of a tepid, humid, 
 and stagnant atmosphere, that the natives have a cadaverous aspect, 
 and constantly complain, as at Scanderoon, of agues and malignant 
 fevers ; and a stranger rarely sleeps there with impunity. In the au- 
 tumn all those, who are able, retire to Beilan, which is distant only nine 
 hours. A small river flows down to the sea, close to the village ; and 
 ornamental shrubs grow luxuriantly on its banks : but the water at this 
 season is stagnant and corrupt. The fruits we obtained there, parti- 
 cularly small white figs, were of exquisite flavour. 
 
 I had no sooner landed, than I was civilly invited by the Cadi, or 
 Sheik, to partake of some refreshment ; and during the remainder of 
 my stay there I lived at the house of the Aga. Without knowing my 
 country or religious profession, they imagined me to be well-informed 
 as to the politics of the Europeans ; and were very desirous to learn 
 whether they might not expect English ships to resort there. They 
 were probably the more anxious on this subject, in consequence of 
 the profits resulting to the people of Macri, Moglah, and other places, 
 from their traffic with the English. I answered, generally,- in the 
 affirmative ; with which they seemed satisfied. At Arsiis, the 
 Katerdgis paid three piastres duty, for the passage of every loaded 
 mule, and one piastre for every empty one. 
 
 The plain which we crossed to the foot of the mountain, in our 
 way to Antioch, is about two miles wide : the ascent to a resting place, 
 under the shade of some trees, employed us nearly three hours ; and 
 to the summit, which is clothed with pines, intermingled with cedars, 
 two hours more. The sides are covered with useful, ornamental, and 
 rare plants. Towards the west is a widely-extended prospect of the 
 sea, and the plain below ; towards the east of Antioch, the country 
 around it, the lake, and the mountains which terminate the horizon. 
 A limpid fountain, near the summit of this lofty ridge, pours forth a 
 copious supply of icy water ; a delightful beverage in this spot, and at 
 this season. The paths which lay in our route were some of them 
 
 s 2
 
 132 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 narrow, abrupt, and nearly impracticable. One of our horses rolled 
 down a precipice, and was much lacerated ; and a mule, by a similar 
 accident, broke his thigh, and could not proceed. At this the owners 
 wrew impatient and clamorous ; sometimes weeping, but oftener vent- 
 inw horrible imprecations. Their complaints of the road were not 
 without reason. An arduous ascent, on one side encumbered with a 
 profusion of loose fragments of stone ; a pi'ecipice on the other, nearly 
 perpendicular; in some places trees entwining their branches, and 
 denyino- a passage ; in other places, loosened at the I'oots, and threat- 
 enino- a tremendous fall : these were objects interesting to the traveller, 
 but in no way gratifying to the muleteer. The ascent employed four 
 hours ; crossing the chain four more ; and in the descent were con- 
 sumed about three and a half. Equal impediments oppose themselves 
 in the descent, which cannot be safely performed, but on foot. We 
 were two hours and a half on the road from the base of the mountain 
 to Antakie ( Antioch). From this place to Beilan the distance is com- 
 monly estimated at nine hours ; and from Arsus to Antioch, at ten 
 hours : but by this must be understood the time required for a single 
 horseman, for we employed full fourteen hours. Not far from the 
 foot of the mountain we came to a village in the plain, near which 
 we reposed for the night, and obtained a supply of fresh bread, figs, 
 grapes, water-melons, and eggs, all excellent in their kind. 
 
 Early on the following morning we proceeded to Antioch, once the 
 opulent, the luxurious, the refined mistress of Syria ; now presenting 
 no monument of ancient grandeur, except the skeleton of its ample 
 walls. The plain, over which the road leads to Antioch, is covered 
 with myrtles, and other flowering and odoriferous shrubs. The 
 khans, or caravanserais, at Antioch, are not sumptuous buildings, but 
 they are secure, and adapted to the use of the merchants. The three 
 best are Khan el Nakir, Khan el Beiz, and Khan el Gidid. I had an 
 interview with the jNlitsellim, who has been long fixed here. He 
 received me with great politeness. His administration was said to be 
 distinguished by justice and severity. He was very temperate ; and
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 133 
 
 his pleasures were understood to be strictly confined to his harem. 
 He had never indulged in the use of opium or strong liquors.* 
 
 The Christians of the Greek ritual, now established in Antioch, are 
 about a hundred and fifty families; the Armenians, twenty families; 
 and there are about forty Jewish. The number of -Mohammedans 
 is not so easily ascertained. The troops of every description 
 now in the service of the Mitsellim do not exceed four thousand, 
 and are probably not more than three thousand five hundred ; these 
 are known imder the general name of Tuffenkjic, or " bearers of 
 fire-arms." There are ordinarily four or five hundred Yenktcheris 
 (or Janissaries), who are at present most of them in Egypt with the 
 Vizir. 
 
 The staple commodity of Antioch is well known to be silk. The 
 total of tliis city, which consists of 800 drachms, of forty-eight grains 
 each, when I arrived there, sold for twenty-eight piastres ; but before 
 I left the place, it had risen to thirty-five piastres. The cantar of 
 Antioch is 100 okes of Constantinople ; a bale of silk weighs fifty 
 okes. The cantar of Aleppo is ninety okes. The average ([uantity 
 produced by Suadea, and the neighbourhood of Antakie, sold rough 
 in the city, is about 200 cantars. The silk in this district is divided 
 into four kinds ; that of Antioch, of Suadea, of the mountains, and of 
 Beilan. The present year (1801) has been unfavourable to the pro- 
 duce of silk. A large portion of it is demanded for the manufactories 
 of Aleppo. The price of the best wheat is now forty-eight f piastres 
 the shinibul, which is the common measure of capacity at Antioch. 
 This measure weighs one-fourth of the cantar of Aleppo, or seventy 
 totals, equal to 800x70, or 56,000 drachms, avoirdupois. My inform- 
 ant esteems the ordinary consumption of wheat-flour for bread, for a 
 family of six persons, at about seven cantars. In addition to this, his 
 
 • His revenues exceed tliirty, but do not amount to forty purses ; about 1 000/. or 1 2501. 
 sterling. The maintenance of troops is not to be included in this estimate. 
 
 f 48 piastres may be estimated at 3/. is. The shimbul equals 218 lbs. 12 ounces, or 
 nearly three bushels and two thirds.
 
 134 SYRIA. 
 
 own family, consisting of that number, consumes about four cantars 
 of Buighul.* 
 
 A great quantity of grapes is produced in the neighbourhood. 
 They are used for food, converted into Dipse t? (a kind of jelly made 
 of the juice of grapes,) or dried as raisins. Little wine is prepared ; 
 but what I have tasted there was perfectly well-flavoured ; it may be 
 kept any length of time, and is improved by a period of seven or 
 eight years. It is strong, and perhaps rather too sweet. Of pro- 
 visions, excellent fish is brought from the lake and the Orontes, and 
 sometimes from the sea ; but the encouragement offered to the fisher- 
 men is not a sufficient inducement for them to go out frequently in 
 quest of it. 
 
 Quarries of free-stone are found in the adjacent mountain ; and there 
 is timber at no great distance, but the carriage is somewhat difficult. 
 A convenient house for a family maybe built for about 1500 piastres : 
 the interior of the city is, nevertheless, mean and ill-built. The wages 
 of a man-servant are not more than twenty-five piastres per annum, 
 exclusively of food and clothing. The mithkal, or twenty-four karats 
 of pure gold, which are equal to one Venetian sequin and a half, is 
 twelve piastres ; yet a single Venetian sequin passes for ten piastres. 
 A firman, from the Porte, was expected to regulate the value of the 
 current coin ; but the evil of its inequality was not to be remedied by 
 a simple mandate. The want of intrinsic value in the Turkish coin- 
 age, one of the wretched expedients of a bankrupt government, had 
 caused sequins to be received at ten or ten and a half piastres ; that 
 coin being more pure, more portable, and pretty generally preferred 
 to others ; and those who possess them could not be expected to part 
 with them at eight piastres, which was the legal value, whatever might 
 
 * The seven cantars of wheat give for the annual consumption of each person, in bread- 
 corn, about 43,333 drachms, avoirdupois; and these equal 169 lbs. 4 oz. 5 drs., or two 
 bushels and five-sixths. 
 
 f See Shaw's Travels, pp. 113.339. " Carry down to the man a little balm, and a 
 little dipse." Genesis, xliii. 11. — E.
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 135 
 
 be the terms of the firman. The wages of workmen, and the price 
 of provisions, have nominally increased within the last thirty years, 
 owing to the same cause. The daily pay of a master-mason wasi 
 within that period, fifteen paras: it is now seventy. That of an in- 
 ferior mason was six paras ; and is now from thirty to forty. 
 
 The natives of Antioch are healthy and vigorous. Bilious com- 
 plaints, however, I observed to be common. The air is very 
 salubrious ; and, notwithstanding its latitude, and somewhat low situ- 
 ation, the thermometer seldom rises above 84° or 86°. The prevail- 
 ing wind is westerly, or rather S. 57° W. by the compass : it scarcely 
 deviated from that point during the time I was there. This wind 
 blowing from the sea equally mitigates the cold of winter, and the 
 heat of sunniicr ; nor does the breeze remit during the night, but 
 Wows steadily during the whole of the twenty-four hours. Perhaps 
 this is the cause why the inhabitants are less incommoded by flies and 
 gnats than in other places. When a different wind prevails, which 
 I'arely happens, but for a short interval, both the heat and cold are 
 more severely felt. 
 
 The water of the Orontes is very white and turbid at this season : it 
 is not used for drinking until it has deposited its mud. At the bridge 
 of Antioch it flows from south to north. From the strong west winds, 
 Suadea is an inconvenient harbour for ships; wliich cannot then get 
 out of the river. The bearing of Suadea from Antioch is W. S. W. 
 
 The rebellious Pasha, Kutchuk Ali, has lately been negociating his 
 peace with the Porte : he was promised, as a condition of his obedi- 
 ence, which the government was not able to compel, that the caravan 
 of pilgrims should this year pass by Baias ; and that he should have 
 the pashalic of Adene in addition to his own. Neither of these 
 promises having been performed, the Pasha thought himself absolved 
 from the contract, and renewed his former system of plunder, which 
 indeed had scarcely been suspended. The East India Company was 
 obliged to negociate a peace separately from the Porte, that their 
 Tatars from Aleppo might be permitted to pass.
 
 136 ^''^'^^ 
 
 On the 21st of August I left Antioch, and took tlie road to La- 
 dakie, where I arrived on the 23d, having employed about twenty- 
 four hours in the journey. Three hours from Antakie I observed a 
 torrent, which descended among rude and broken rocks, covered with 
 lively verdure, into the Orontes : on the torrent was constructed a mill, 
 forming altogether a striking and a picturesque scene. Near this point 
 commences the ascent of a mountain, which is somewhat rugged : be- 
 tween the foot of it and Antioch, may be remarked some remains of 
 antiquity, such as broken columns; but there was nothing in a tolerably 
 perfect state. They prove, however, that great public buildings Ixave 
 extended to this distance. A bridge, over another torrent, now dry, is 
 seen at about one hour from Antioch. Our course, hitherto, was south- 
 west. Three hours more brought us to a village on the mountain, 
 where we slept. Our course afterwards was south. In the plain are 
 some rocks, which appear to be tufa, perforated and cellular : others 
 of talc, or large mica, are seen on the mountain : all are soft stones. 
 Myrtle, oak, sumach, are scattered about in profusion ; but there are 
 no large trees. The culture, where the ground is plain and produc- 
 tive, consists of maize, vines, and some tobacco. On the second day 
 we came to a village called Ourde, by a mountainous road, w'ith much 
 low wood. Pear-trees, walnuts, and vines adorn this village, which is 
 said to be two hours short of half-way from Antioch to Ladakie. Be- 
 fore we came to Ladakie, the road led us through a plain for two 
 hours and a half to three hours, in which our course was S. S. W. This 
 plain is most of it cultivated ; and it was watered by three small 
 streams, which we had occasion to cross. The vegetation on the 
 mountain consists chiefly of pines ; the air at the foot of it is said to 
 be very unhealthy ; but at Ladakie there is little reason to complain ; 
 the sea-breeze prevents it from being stagnant. 
 
 The small, but agreeable, city of Ladakie is slowly recovering fi-om 
 the calamity which assailed it in 1797. The greater part of the 
 buildings then overthrown by the earthquake are reconstructed, but 
 less substantially than formerly. The singular imbecility of the 
 Pasha has left the farm of the Miri (^and virtually the greatest power
 
 SYRIA, jg^ 
 
 in the city) to a Maronite Christian ; intriguing, rich, insolent, and 
 overbearing. The hands, as Volney observes, which the mallet has 
 hardened in beating cotton, are not fitted to wield the rod of authority. 
 The natives execrate his rapacity, while they prostrate themselves 
 before his power ; and it is striking to observe the conflicting passions 
 which torture the countenances of the crowds of persons who lino-er 
 for successive hours at his levee, often without obtaining an audience. 
 
 A fatal accident was near happening on the evening of my arrival 
 at Ladakie, from the absurd prejudice which prevails in that country, 
 with regard to persons deprived of reason. * A young Georgian 
 Mamluk, in the service of a Capigi bashi, with whom I travelled from 
 Antioch thither, sleeping on the terrace of the khan where we lodo-ed* 
 was so forcibly seized by the throat by one of these mischievous ideots^ 
 that he had nearly lost all sensation, when his companion fortunately 
 awoke, and discovered his situation. The Capigi, on my remarkino-, 
 in strong terms, the great absurdity of the popular prejudice, ao-reed 
 with me perfectly in the conclusion, but did not think fit to make 
 any remonstrance to the proper persons; so that the Shech was left 
 to strangle with impunity the next person who should unfortunately 
 be exposed to his mischievous attempts. 
 
 The rescue of Egypt by the English I had reason to believe was 
 very unpopular in Syria among all who were not immediately attached 
 to the Turkish interests. Present evils are always more intolerable 
 than those which are contingent and remote ; and with all that Egypt 
 suffered from the invasion of the French before their eyes, they are 
 incapable of discerning how impossible it would be for a conqueror, 
 however mild and generous, for many years at least, to ameliorate 
 their condition. Besides which, it may be observed that many of the 
 Oriental Christians would be gratified by possessing the power of 
 plundering, even at the expense of being plundered themselves ; and 
 
 * " They hold such as have lost their wits, and natural ideots in high veneration, as 
 men ravished in spirit, and taken from themselves, as it were, to the fellowship of angels." 
 Sandys Travels in Turkey, p. 44. — E. 
 
 VOL. 11. T
 
 138 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 their little vanity would make great sacrifices even for the gratification 
 of wearing a white or yellow shawl. 
 
 The price of wheat at Ladakie was four piastres the kilot; of 
 tobacco from thirty to forty-five paras the rotal ; of coffee, from seven 
 to seven piastres and a half, for the same quantity. 
 
 The port of this town is at present very small and inconvenient ; 
 but there seems good reason to believe that it might be rendered 
 capacious and secure with less labour and expense than any other 
 place on the coast of Syria. 
 
 No considerable remains of the ancient city of Laodicea are now 
 visible, yet perhaps enough is found in the neighbourhood to ascer- 
 tain its extent with tolerable accuracy. Subterraneous works, steps 
 cut in the solid rock, and various other remains are seen to the north, 
 near the sea. A number of petrified pistachio nuts is found in the 
 rocks of the vicinity ; but scarcely a single tree of that description 
 now grows there. What can have extinguished this species of tree 
 it is not easy to imagine. Have the frequent earthquakes destroyed 
 them? Scarcely any wine is now made there, and few vines are 
 planted ; though tradition informs us that wine was formerly prepared 
 at Laodicea in great abundance. Sulphur and bitumen are seen even 
 on the surface of the soil, near a spring known among the Franks by 
 the name of Fontaine cf amour. 
 
 I embarked in a small boat with several passengers for Larneka in 
 Cyprus, which in Turkish is called Tusla from the adjacent salt 
 works. None of the company departed from the rules of civility and 
 mutual forbearance, with the exception of a Derwish. The monastic 
 order called Nakshebendi to which he belonged, was one of the 
 strictest ; yet many individuals who are members of it may be said to 
 unite great profligacy, vulgarity and ignorance, with pretensions to 
 superior sanctity ; and gross worldliness and servility, with extra- 
 ordinary professions of devotion and self-denial. This man talked 
 incessantly in a very forward and irrational manner ; and occasionally 
 threw out hints that he suspected me to be a Christian ; declaring 
 at the same time how much he despised and hated infidels. His
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 139 
 
 pointless satire I bore for some time very patiently, reserving my 
 reply for a proper occasion. Being one day together at the table of 
 the Custom-house officer, the Derwish suddenly left off eating, and 
 looking directly at me, said, " La illah ila ullah * ," to which I in- 
 stantly replied in a cheerful tone, " We Mohammed ahduhu we 
 rasouhii/ni,'' and I immediately added ; " I congratulate myself, 
 father Derwish, on hearing the sacred profession of Islam drop from 
 your tongue ; but I should be still better pleased at learning that the 
 faith had place in your heart. God built the Islam on five things f ; 
 but of the five you possess not one. You receive alms and never 
 give : your knees are bent at table, but never on the carpet of prayer : 
 you abstain from food only when no one will give it to you : your 
 ablutions are performed with dust, when they ought to be performed 
 with water : and your pilgrimage has only been from the Tekie to 
 the brothel : you drink no wine, but you are drunk with opium : 
 and your embroidered cap % instead of being a crown of sanctity, is 
 a mark of folly. With such morals, any marriage that you could 
 contract would not be a marriage, but a repetition of the sensuality to 
 which you are accustomed ; and if any one of the true believers in this 
 place should consent to give you his daughter in marriage, I am con- 
 tent to bear all the obloquy that you can utter for a week to come." 
 It may be supposed that I did not venture to talk in this strain 
 without having previously ascertained in what degree of estimation 
 the Derwish was held by the rest of the company ; and far from 
 taking his part, they acknowledged by their loud laughter the justice 
 of my reproof. 
 
 * Thus pronounced, La Illahu ilia llahu ; " There is no other God, but God :" wa 
 Muhammedu abduhu wa rasouluhu, " and Mohammed is his servant, and his messenger 
 or ambassador." From Mr. Usko. — These are the words pronounced from the minarets 
 of the mosques at the different hours of calling to prayer. — E. 
 
 f When De la Motraye was at Rama, he had a treatise given him " Of the Five 
 Commandments of the Law of Allah (God); viz. Belief in the Divine Essence and in 
 the Prophet ; the Sala or Prayer ; Fasting, Charity, and the Pilgrimage to Mecca." 
 The treatise on these five points is given in the Appendix to his Travels. — E. 
 
 I This cap is called Taj, a crown. 
 
 T 2
 
 140 CYPRUS. 
 
 On the morning of the seventh day from our departure, we landed 
 at Larneka. The heat of this part of Cyprus is very intense ; and the 
 north-east wind, which is said to be the most hot and oppressive, blew 
 at the time of my arrival. Caleshes, in other places used as a luxury, 
 are here almost necessary ; for though the town be but at a small 
 distance from the sea, yet exposure to the rays of the sun in passing 
 thither, is seldom hazarded with impunity. Agues and complaints of 
 the eyes are common ; and none of the natives have the appearance 
 of robust health. 
 
 The bread made in private liouses in Cyprus is unequalled, except 
 perhaps by that which is prepared for the table of the Sultan, at Con- 
 stantinople. It is composed of what is called " Jiore di farina.^'' 
 The flour is divided into three parts, to obtain the kind which is 
 proper for manipulation. The first separated is the coarse and husky 
 part ; the next, the white impalpable powder ; after which operation 
 remains the Jiore di farina, which is neither very finely pulverized, 
 nor remarkably white, and is by far the smallest quantity of the whole 
 mass. This is found to contain the purest part of the wheat, and to 
 make the finest bread. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Journey from Smyrna to Constaiitinople. — Greek Sailois. — Arrival at Smyrna. — Jelembe. 
 — Balikesr. — Kuirdes. — Lake Ulubad. — Yenishehr. — Niccca. — Kizderbend. — 
 Corrupt Manners of the Female Inhabitants. — Hersck. — Muggrebine Soldiers. — 
 Arrival at Constantitiople. 
 
 A LAD on board * our vessel having imprudently ventured to swim, 
 when violently heated, was subsequently attacked by a fever, which, as 
 he soon became delirious and buboes appeared, was imagined to 
 
 * Mr. Browne was now sailing from Alexandria to Smyrna.
 
 ASIA MIXOK. 141 
 
 be the plague. This so much alarmed the (ireek passengers and 
 crew, that to quiet their fears, they had recourse to strong liquors, and 
 speedily became perfectly intoxicated. About midnight we were dis- 
 turbed ; and going on deck, I observed them all dancing and singing, 
 totally inattentive to the state of the vessel, which was already close to 
 the rocks, north of the gulf. It was with great difficulty they could 
 be quieted ; and having laid to until the sun had risen, we at length 
 anchored safely in the afternoon near the new castle of Smyrna. 
 
 Having left this city to proceed to Constantinople, we ascended 
 the Sipuli Dag, from which there is a good view of Smyrna, and the 
 neighbouring sea : the remainder of the road towards i\Iagnisa is for 
 
 DO O 
 
 the most part a perfect plain, watered by rivulets and cisterns, and 
 wooded in many places : the soil is clay, mixed with stone. In the 
 winter it is moist and deep, but in dry weather firm and smooth. 
 Two Tchutcheks or places where guards are stationed, present them- 
 selves : here a few men are employed to watch for the safety of 
 passengers, and exact from Dhummies (Christians), and solicit from 
 Mussulmans, a trifling sum as they pass, in acknowledgment of their 
 vigilance too often remitted. The environs of Smyrna are occupied 
 by gardens ; and between it and jNIagnisa some corn is cultivated. 
 Four or hve villages are seen to the right and left, but not very near 
 the road. We encamped about a mile beyond Magnisa*, in the open 
 
 * The following account of Magnisa (the ancient Magnesia ad Sipylum) and of Cara 
 Osman Oglo, who^-e cliaiacter foi'ms so striking an exception to that of the Turkish go- 
 vernors in general, is taken from another part of Mr. Browne's papers. 
 
 " Magnisa is situated nearly N. 40° E. of Smyrna, at the distance of about eight 
 hours; it is said to exceed Smyrna in dimensions, but contains fewer inhabitants; many 
 of these are Greeks and Armenians, who carry on a considerable traffic ; the latter occupy 
 a large distinct building, in the part of the city nearest to Smyrna, which at night is 
 secured by gates. An ancient castle, on a considerable elevation overhangs the east part 
 of the city. This place is now the seat of one of the richest, the most powerfid, and per- 
 haps the most just of the several chiefs, who divide among them the government of Ana- 
 tolia, under the feeble reign of the Othman dynasty. Originally the holder of a Zaym or 
 Fief, his power and possessions have been augmented by various circumstances beyond 
 what is usually acquired, even by the first order of Pashas; yet he has never accepted that
 
 j^2 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 field. At tliat season the Katerdgis rarely enter a town or village ; 
 and thus, feeding their cattle gratis, are able to travel at a cheap rate. 
 Our company together consists of twenty-six mules : the hire of a 
 horse or mule from Smyrna to Broussa is now twenty piastres. Hav- 
 ing passed several villages, we at length arrived at one called Ballage, 
 and hence, after a ride of about eight hours, we reached Jelembe, 
 which is erroneously placed in the maps. The country we have 
 passed from Magnesia to Jelembe is fertile ; at first plain, but the 
 latter part more hilly ; ill cultivated, but not unpleasant. Between 
 Ballage and Jelembe are several small villages. 
 
 Jelembe is a small town, containing, however, several mosques ; the 
 inhabitants I understood to be four or five thousand ; a proportion of 
 them consists of Greek Christians. Wine, and various articles of 
 provision, abound in Jelembe ; but it is a town of no manufactures 
 or commerce. The character of the government, so far as I had the 
 means of observing, seemed to be moderate and lenient. 
 
 Cisterns of fine water are every where met with on the road ; the 
 rocks are chiefly ^f limestone ; vines and fig trees are in abundance. 
 Having procured some provisions at Jelembe, I proceeded to join 
 the caravan, which I found encamped in a pleasant valley, adorned 
 with the agreeably varied green of low trees and bushes, of which the 
 
 title. His establishment is splendid without profusion, and his economy exact without 
 being parsimonious. By observing this just medium, he is enabled to remit annually to 
 the Porte a sum much exceeding his quota ; and he furnishes, whenever called upon, a 
 numerous body of feudal troops. It is impossible to say what is the exact number of the 
 one, or value of the other. The surplus of his revenue is sufficient occasionally to repair 
 bridges and roads, and to be applied to other useful objects too generally neglected in the 
 Turkish empire. Travelling within the limits of his fiefs is perfectly secure; and the ad- 
 ministration of justice speedy and impartial. Tiie Porte, in some measure, conscious of 
 the importance of such a governor, though disregarding the principles of justice, has hitherto 
 abstained from its wonted system of spoliation and perfidy. It is not, however, to be 
 imagined that Cara Osman Oglo is distinguished by a really elevated or enlightened 
 mind. To a naturally benevolent disposition, he unites a competent discrimination of 
 character in those he employs. His education was much better than usually falls to the 
 lot of men of his rank and station ; and, unlike the rest of the great among the Osmanli, he 
 is not one of those who have ' crept to rise, and sunk to reascend.' "
 
 ASIA MINOR. 143 
 
 Qiiercus * forms a prominent part ; and watered by a small rivulet 
 which is conducted to a stone reservoir, built by some charitable 
 person ; and affording a copious, cool, and salubrious beverage to the 
 wearied traveller. 
 
 After passing a Tchutchek, where the guard extorted from some 
 Christians twelve times the sum he was entitled to, we came to a 
 valley where two roads part off, the one leading to Ulubad, the other 
 to Balikesr. The caravan took the former ; some of the horsemen, 
 among whom was myself, the latter. In half an hour we arrived at 
 Balikesr ; the road as far as Tchakish is hilly, thence onward, plain 
 and open. The plain of Balikesr is fertile, and though much of it lies 
 waste, a considerable portion of corn is grown there. The barley 
 harvest (6th June) is at its height ; and much wheat has already been 
 cut : but that which yet remains unripe is threatened by the locusts, 
 which are now becoming numerous in this part of the country. 
 
 Balikesr is a considerable town, in which is annually held a cele- 
 brated fair for various kinds of merchandise. It begins about the tenth 
 of the month Safr. The inhabitants are many of them Christians ; 
 and have the reputation of being civil and attentive to strangers ; a 
 report which I shall not contradict. Proceeding from Balikesr through 
 the plain, north-east, we joined the caravan at its encampment at the 
 end of four hours. The following day we met a large company of 
 Kuirds on the march ; they, as well as the caravans, frequently en- 
 camp close to the standing corn, which, as there are no enclosures, is 
 exposed to continual depredation : a striking proof of the depressed 
 state of the cultivator of the land, of the defects of the laws, and the 
 blindness of the government ! 
 
 Two of the chief Kuirds came and sat down in the tent where we 
 were reposing. I was anxious to enter into conversation with them ; 
 but one of our company observed, loud enough for them to hear, 
 " those dogs and vagabonds, though so rich in camels and sheep, 
 
 The name of the species of oak appears to be omiued. — E.
 
 144 
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 did not i)lush to beg bread of us, who were strangers and travellers 
 on the road." At this expression, both the Kuirds * instantly rose, 
 and saying Ullah Ismerladck f, mounted their horses and rode oft'. 
 They spoke Turkish but imperfectly. 
 
 The night being serene, two of us left the caravan, and passed on- 
 ward by a plain open country, for about an hour and a half; and then 
 over rising grounds until we came into the great road to Ulubad, 
 which, for about four hours, runs along the delightful banks of the 
 river Mikalizza, here a beautiful stream, and not of inconsiderable 
 size : romantic and well wooded hills enclose it on all sides, some- 
 times overhanging the path, sometimes receding in gentle declivities. 
 The verdure and the fragrance of spring surrounded us on all sides, 
 and enlivened the whole of this beautiful scenery. 
 
 Having passed through the town of Ulubad, we stopped at a khan 
 near a lonff wooden bridge, built over the Mikalizza, where Christians 
 are expected to pay a toll of ten or twelve paras each. We had seen 
 three villages before we arrived at Ulubad. Crossing the bridge, a few 
 paces north of it, two roads part off", the one leading to the town Mika- 
 lizza, the other to Broussa. We advanced to Chatalor-Kue, which is a 
 village situated nearly due north of the eastern extremity of the lake 
 of Ulubad, or ancient Apollonia. This lake is bounded on the south by 
 a chain of mountains, which seems to terminate in Olympus, whose 
 snow-capped summit is distinctly visible. The lake is fresh, and said 
 to be full of fish. We dismounted, and rested near a beautiful clump 
 of large trees, a little to the right of the road. Broussa, where we 
 arrived the following morning, has been before sufficiently described. 
 
 * Kuird, according to llie Turkish pronunciation, or as they are more cominonly 
 termed, Curds. — B. 
 
 f Allaha Ismarladuk, We recommend (you) to God. N. B. It ought to be thus 
 written, and not Ullah Ismerladek. The words in Turkish are, ^^yt^] <t^iJl allaha 
 ismarladuk. The Germans say the same in taking leave : God befohlen. The French : 
 adieu, i. e. nous vous recommandons a Dieu. The verb is ^J^j.*^\ ismarlamak, to re- 
 commend, Sec. — From Mr. Usko.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 145 
 
 I advanced, with only a single muleteer, from Broussa to Yenishehr ; 
 the distance is computed at twelve hours, but it employed us rather 
 more. The road, for two hours, lies among gardens and cultivated 
 grounds, particularly those applied to the produce of silk, with 
 flourishing trees in the liedge rows. Thence we entered a large grove 
 of walnuts, casting around a thick shade, impenetrable to the fiercest 
 rays of the sun. To this succeeds a valley, in which a mill copiously 
 supplied with water, forms an agreeable and picturesque object. 
 Soon after we reached the spot where two great roads diverge ; the 
 one leading to Kutaieh, the other to Yenishehr. Having reached 
 the foot of the mountain in about three hours, we commenced the 
 ascent. The top of Olympus and the smaller hills around, presented 
 themselves on the right, while the copious streams which issue from 
 his snow-clad head or oak-mantled sides, rapidly descending amoncr 
 the loose pebbles which form their beds, now delight us with their 
 clear currents and soothing murmurs ; but in winter alarm the travel- 
 ler by their resistless force, and impede his progress by their depth 
 and number. These all run to the north, and are atlensth discharoed 
 into the gulf of iSIoudania. The plain which I contemplated from 
 near the summit extends from south-west to north-east, in leniith, 
 perhaps, about four miles; the breadth, on an average, a mile and a 
 half or two miles. It is intersected by small streams, divided into 
 cultivated fields and rich pastures, and adorned with many beautiful 
 and useful trees, particularly walnuts. A small lake, due north of 
 us, enriched the view ; above which rises a ridge crowned with som- 
 brous verdure. Before noon we reposed under a lofty tree, and then, 
 after a short descent, coming into a fertile plain, well watered, in 
 which is a small lake, we arrived after thirteen hours at Yenishehr. 
 The plain is in part cultivated, and the peasantry were employed in 
 reaping. The ravages of the locusts have every where been felt ; 
 and in some places the corn is cut unripe, to prevent its complete 
 destruction by them. The harvest, however, is on the whole favour- 
 able. In going from the foot of the hill to Yenishehr, we were em- 
 ployed nearly five hours. We have to-day passed three villages, and 
 
 VOL. II. u
 
 146 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 a large chiftlick, which Ibrmerly belonged to a pasha, whose oppres- 
 sion caused the plain around to be deserted and left waste. 
 
 Yenishehr is an agreeable town : the inhabitants are chiefly Mo- 
 hammedans : the government is in the hands of aWaywode, who has 
 not more than fifteen soldiers, and whose household consists only 
 of five or six persons. His government is spoken of as mild ; but it 
 may be readily conceived that, with a force so moderate, tyranny 
 could not be carried very far. When it is added, that his word once 
 passed is sacred, and that his manners are simple, the praise is more 
 appropriate, and consequently more valuable. The market is pretty 
 well supplied with provisions ; but the traffic is small, the city not 
 beino" on a high road. The Katerdgis do not pass from Yenishehr 
 to Scudar more tlian once in fifteen or twenty days. I therefore ob- 
 tained a horse from the Menzilgi to Scudar ; but having been obliged 
 to pay the hire of him before my departure, the man who attended 
 with the post-horse went away twice. The first time, which hap- 
 pened at Hersek, I brought him back by force ; but we were scarcely 
 arrived at Gebise, when he escaped with the horse, and I never saw 
 
 him more. 
 
 From Yenishehr I arrived at Nictea, in four hours and a half. In 
 this place the population is small, commerce inactive, and provisions 
 are by no means abundant. The Mohammedans and Christians live 
 in distinct quarters. The city, it is well known, is situated at the 
 eastern extremity of the lake of the same name, on a flat of no very 
 considerable extent. The walls have been massive and extensive ; 
 in many parts double, and flanked with numerous towers. Many of 
 them consist of large stones ; and Grecian mouldings, profiles and 
 altars are every where visible. A very small portion of the space 
 surrounded by these walls is now occupied by buildings ; the re- 
 mainder is in part divided into gardens ; and is in part waste. The 
 road from Yenishehr to Nicoea lies at first through a plain ; and then 
 traverses the extremity of a ridge extending from east to west, which 
 terminates near the lake running a little to the south of it. During 
 two hours, which we employed in crossing, various forms of over-
 
 ASIA MINOR. 147 
 
 hanging rocks, mingled with verdant foliage, offered themselves to 
 our view. Some streams, after meandering through the vale, fell into 
 the lake. On emerging from the hills, we came by a descent of some 
 length into the plain of Nicaea. The view of the city, at a distance, 
 is imposing. One of the first objects which attract the sight, ' is a 
 spacious white kiosk, belonging to the governor of Yenishehr, a little 
 to the right of the road, on a small elevation. 
 
 In about five hours and a half from Nicaea we arrived at Kizder- 
 bend, and in four iiours more at Hersek. The mountain which we 
 ascended after leaving the lake, is of no great height ; but in many 
 places steep, and the passes narrow : low wood covers much of its 
 surface. The rocks are of limestone, fi'om which issue some small 
 streams. The villages are few, and the population scanty. This 
 land between the two gulfs is called Dillan, or Tongue, by the natives. 
 The village Kizderbend consists of Greek Christians, whose situation 
 appears in no degree enviable. Like Mart-rawan, in Syria, the place 
 is remarkable for the facility with which the inhabitants give up their 
 females to strangers. We obtained a scanty supply of eggs, bread, 
 and sour milk : wine they had possessed in the preceding winter, but 
 it was long since exhausted. The women were wishing that tiie 
 Vizier might pass that way on his return ; " as they should then 
 get some money." This anecdote alone describes the character of 
 the people ; their wishes being in such direct opposition to those of 
 all other Christian villages, who never fail to deplore the visits of 
 Turkish soldiery. Hersek is also a wretched place, containing a 
 single mosque, about twenty-five houses, two places called khans, and 
 one coffee-house : no provisions or forage are to be obtained. Having 
 crossed the ferry, for which an extravagant price is here paid, I pro- 
 ceeded to Gebise, leaving Mallum, a populous village, on the right. 
 Gebise is a cheerful and much frequented town, nearly a mile in 
 length. It furnishes a good market for all kind of provisions, and 
 various other articles. The inhabitants are chiefl\- ]\Iussulmen ; there 
 being only four or five Christians who keep shops. There are several 
 mosques ; and, as I was informed, fourteen khans. 
 
 u 2
 
 j^g ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Havinor passed several hours at Gebise, a Muggrebine whom I liad 
 seen before accosted me : he had been dangerously wounded in the 
 ricrht side, while in the Vizier's army, by the explosion of a bomb. 
 I found he had exhausted the powers of wine, brandy, opium, and 
 hashish, until none of them raised his spirits ; and his constitution 
 was entirely, his intellects almost, destroyed. He boasted to me of 
 the number of Frenclimeii and Copts whom he and his countrymen 
 (Barbaresques) had killed in Kahira, on the irruption of Nasstf Pasha, 
 and the great wealth they had obtained by despoiling the houses. 
 The heads of those whom they had murdered were put into sacks ; 
 and they received from the Pasha, according to this man's statement, 
 eighty sequins for the head of every Frenchman, and fifty for that of 
 every Copt. When Nassif Pasha's party was obliged to withdraw, 
 my informant left, if he said truly, 6000 dollars in specie or value, in 
 his apartment at Kahira. He spoke very contemptuously of the 
 Asiatic troops ; of whom, he says, one Barbaresque is capable of 
 beating ten. 
 
 I arrived at Cartal, through a heavy and continued rain, in some- 
 thing less than five hours. The town is about half a mile lono; ; not 
 ill built ; has a market for provisions ; but is in other respects only a 
 place of passage. The eastern extremity is inhabited by Christians. 
 In four hours more I arrived at Scudar : the master of the Custom- 
 house, hearing that I came from Egypt, was very inquisitive as 
 to the state of that country. The following day I proceeded to 
 Constantinople. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS WRITTEN AT CONSTANTINOPLE, 
 
 1802. 
 
 Neither science, literature, nor any kind of knowledge is forbidden 
 to a Mohammedan by his religion ; a truth which might be abun- 
 dantly confirmed by many texts from the Koran, the liadith, and 
 other books. Why then are the different branches of knowledge not
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 549 
 
 cultivated ? This is owing to the fatal prejudice which prevents them 
 from being the means of advancement. No man is indebted to his 
 learnijig or talents even for the humble appointments of Cadi or 
 Imam ; much less can these qualities raise him to any lucrative or 
 honourable office. The same remark applies to the Christians of the 
 empire ; and superior attainments scarcely secure to the possessor 
 the scanty provision of a Papas. As a speculative question (for such 
 only it is), we may be allowed to enquire what would be the readiest 
 way to restore a portion of vigour to this wasted empire? And 
 it will certainly occur, that the first step towards improving the 
 character of the people must be to make them aware of their own 
 defects. No temper of mind can be more adverse to improvement 
 than a calm and undoubting self-sufficiency. A national feelini? of 
 their own inferiority, and a disposition to emulate the improvements 
 of their neighbours must first be excited ; and these, if they could once 
 become prevalent, would speedily produce the most salutary effects. 
 
 But though this may be regarded as the most certain and effectual 
 method of working great national improvements, it is happily not the 
 only one. Does not the example of the Russians prove that a state 
 may be powerful, and, in a certain degree, civilised, the majority of 
 whose citizens show little disposition to improvement ? The simple 
 circumstance of a change in the succession of the crown, by placino- 
 it on the head of a man of talents and enterprise, wrought wonders in 
 Russia ; and perhaps might not operate less favourably on the Turks. 
 In a national view much has been lost to the latter by the succession 
 of four feeble monarchs. A considerable reform might certainly bo 
 effected, if the throne were once filled by a man of judgment, expe- 
 rience, and firmness. The feminine and eunuchal cabinet, which has 
 long governed not only the Seraglio but the Empire, would then be 
 speedily annihilated : the army also might soon be placed on a 
 respectable footing: the navy would be gradually organised. Indeed 
 without the adoption of European tactics no reform would be effectual. 
 To accomplish this, strong popular prejudices must be encountered j 
 but though these are obstinate and inveterate, there is sufficient reason
 
 150 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 to believe that they would not be found absolutely insurmountable 
 by a wise and energetic sovereign. 
 
 After providing adequate revenues for the judges, the will alone of 
 the monarch would be sufficient to purify the administration of justice ; 
 and the advantages resulting from this important reform would be 
 immediately felt. 
 
 The changes which are here supposed would unquestionably require 
 some increase in the public expenditure ; but this would be sufficiently 
 provided for by regulating the public and private revenues of the 
 sovereign, both of which would become far more productive than at 
 present, if a stop were put to some of those abuses which now 
 absorb so large a portion of them in their way to the public treasury. 
 An augmentation of imposts might be difficult in the first instance ; 
 but the amount of the revenues would be increased by a better 
 system of collection ; and, in due time, the people, whether Christians 
 or Mohammedans, might perhaps be induced to pay an advanced 
 price for additional security and a certain degree of independence. 
 
 Amonfj the various causes which have contributed to the ruin of 
 the Turkish provinces, the arbiti'ary and independent jurisdictions 
 conceded under the names of Mocatta and Iltezim * hold a con- 
 spicuous place: to understand their nature the following remarks 
 may be necessary. 
 
 The revenues of a certain district, perhaps ten or twelve villages, 
 are to be disposed of. The person who wishes to farm them, after 
 ascertaining their value with all practicable accuracy, goes to a 
 minister, and offers what he thinks proper for the term of one, two, 
 three, or four years. As the government is always indigent, the offer 
 of ready money is generally accepted ; and nothing more is required 
 to enable the farmer to exercise unlimited authority over the district 
 
 • The word mocateh in its simple acceptation answers to the Latin vectigal ; Iltezim to 
 conductio : the former is for life ; the latter generally for a year. A new restriction has 
 taken place respecting the former : the Mocatteji cannot now sell his interest if the value 
 exceed five purses per annum.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. I5I 
 
 in question, and to augment his revenue by every means of fraud, 
 violence, and extortion. Thus, what was originally supposed to 
 produce fifteen purses, he perhaps makes to yield forty. The 
 peasantry is thereby ruined : but this does not embarrass the Mo- 
 catteji or Miltezim, who is concerned only with what the district will 
 yield during the term for which he holds it. A more absurd system 
 for the administration of provinces cannot possibly be imagined : it 
 is adapted only to the possessions of a horde of rapacious banditti, 
 who expected to be expelled in a year or two from the provinces 
 they had overrun. 
 
 The farmer must oppress in order to reimburse himself for his 
 enormous expenses ; or he must fail. The peasant being rated in 
 proportion to the gi'oss produce of the lands he cultivates, cannot 
 possibly do more than glean a scanty subsistence, which may be ob- 
 tained by slight exertions and the most wretched system of husbandry ; 
 and thus, whilst there is, on the one hand, a strong positive motive to 
 oppress, the stimulus to production, on the part of the landholders, is 
 the most feeble and negative that can be imagined. The practical 
 effects of this system are seen in the depopulation of the country, and 
 the inci'ease of robbers and rebels, the great body of whom, it is known, 
 are composed of peasantry and other subjects of the Porte, who have 
 been thus stripped of their possessions. 
 
 Various attempts have been made, with as various success, by 
 European writers on the Turkish empire, to ascertain the amount of 
 its revenues. But as it rarely appears from what data their inform- 
 ation is derived, their statements cannot be received with implicit 
 confidence. The registers of what is paid at the capital are simple, 
 perspicuous, and to a certain degree authentic ; but it is very difficult 
 to obtain accurate information of public transactions in the provinces. 
 Arrears of revenue occur in some places ; anticipations in others ; 
 and the truth is involved in an inextricable labyrinth of error and 
 obscuritv. With a due regard to the various difficulties which sur- 
 round this subject, the following statement may perhaps be considered 
 as something like an approximation to the truth: — Before the Nizam
 
 J52 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 el "edid or new regulations, the entire revenue of the Porte is said to 
 have been 46,000,000 piastres, whicli at 15 for the pound sterling, 
 (Tive 3,066,GG6f. The new regulations of taxes on articles of con- 
 sumption, importation of corn, &c. &c. are supposed to have doubled 
 it; and the sum is now said to be full 90,000,000 piastres, or 
 6,000,000/. sterling. 
 
 According to the new Nizam, or order, the government purchases 
 all the corn for the supply of the capital. The prime cost is very 
 often not more than sixty paras the kilot ; but that quantity is nev-er 
 sold for less than three and a half or four piastres. The pretence for 
 the government taking into its own hands the importation of grain, 
 is, that the city may be well supplied ; but the real object was an aug- 
 mentation of the revenue. The profits of government, on this article 
 alone, amount, it is said, to 15,000 piastres daily ; which, at a moder- 
 ate computation, is equal to 300,000/. per annum. The poor, it is 
 true, have not much fear of corn rising to an exorbitantly high price ; 
 but they have, on the other hand, no hope of the commodity becom- 
 ing cheaper. This, however, is not the only evil ; the quality of the 
 grain is bad ; many frauds are practised in its passage to the capital, 
 such as causing the grain to swell by wetting it with salt water ; in- 
 creasing the quantity by adding other substances ; all which are very 
 practicable, as it is laden, not in sacks, but in bulk. The hopes of the 
 cultivator of the soil are crushed ; and the officer who is employed to 
 make purchases in the provinces obtains a lucrative job. 
 
 Among the little and ineffectual expedients adopted in a falling 
 empire, the depreciation of the current coinage is generally one. 
 This has been rapidly progressive during the two last reigns in the 
 Ottoman empire. It is superfluous to add that none of the currency 
 goes out of the territory : its value is very various, even within the 
 limits of it. The fendoukli and mahbul are exchangeable in some 
 parts of Asia for a less number of paras than in the capital ; in Aleppo 
 for a greater ; but their highest value in exchange is in Kahira : in 
 the Upper l^gypt they pass for something less. Foreign coinage, par- 
 ticularly Venetian sequins, Dutch and Imperial gold, and Imperial and
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 158 
 
 Spanish silver, are sought after with great avidity. In Antioch and 
 Aleppo, in 1801, the Venetian sequin passed for a sum much exceeding 
 what an equal weight of pure gold would have been exchanged for. 
 The gold of Selim III. contains one-fourth part alloy ; but some means 
 are used by which a better colour is given to it than that of other 
 gold ; marine acid probably enters into the wash used for this pur- 
 pose. Its indented edges are produced by filing, and not by milling. 
 The nominal silver, it is believed, does not contain much more than 
 a third of that metal ; even the paras have been depreciated during 
 the present reign. I was disappointed in endeavouring to obtain 
 more satisfactory details respecting the mint. An English guinea, in 
 1801, was worth seventeen piastres and a half. 
 
 It is perhaps worth remarking that the receipts for the Miri, in 
 Anatolia, were within the last two centuries given in a manner similar 
 to the Exchequer tallies among us. The intendant of a pashalik, at 
 the beginning of the year, caused a number of small sticks to be pre- 
 pared, exactly resembling each other. One was given to the person 
 of whom the Miri was demanded, and a notch was cut for every pay- 
 ment he made of it. The whole being paid, the second stick was 
 delivered into his hands, which served as an acquittance. 
 
 Although the Ottoman government be provided with an arsenal, 
 founderies for cannon and other requisites for carrying on war, such 
 is the supineness, ignorance, or criminal negligence of those who 
 direct that department, that they are quite inadequate to the purposes 
 for which they were intended. Among other instances of the de- 
 fective state of tlieir ammunition, I am credibly informed that, when 
 the Vizier marched against the French, no bombs were ready, and they 
 were cast and sent off to the army, a liundred at a time, warm from 
 the furnace, to Nicomedia ; that on their arrival before El-Arish, the 
 balls and shot were so bad, that instead of making a breach in the wall, 
 they were shattered into fragments as soon as they impinged on it. 
 
 In Constantinople there are now ten offices where the customary 
 duties are received on the following articles, viz. wine, tobacco, dry 
 fruit, green fruit, grain, and various kinds of miscellaneous merchan- 
 
 VOL. II. X
 
 2^^ CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 dise. The duty on wine is at present four paras the oke ; and the 
 sum collected on that article, in the first year after the duty was im- 
 posed, amounted to four thousand purses; almost as much as the 
 whole of the duties on all the other articles of consumption. If there 
 be no misrepresentation, this makes the annual consumption of the 
 city 20,000,000 of okes of wine ; forty okes per head for each inhabi- 
 tant, taking the number at 500,000. 
 
 The mode by which the tribute of the provinces is transmitted to 
 the Imperial treasury, may be new to some readers. It is first put 
 into bags, containing each five hundred piastres ; and each of these is 
 called a purse (kis). A certain number are then sewed in canvass, and 
 the whole laced together with cords, forming a net-work. One of these 
 is slung on each side of a horse or mule, who carries nothing else. 
 The two together may weigh about two hundred weight English. 
 
 At the Tibaa-Khane, or printing-house, which adjoins the INIuhendis 
 Khan, I found them, on the 14th of June 1801, preparing to reprint 
 the Arabic translation of Euclid, by Nasned-din el Tousi ; but with- 
 out corrections or emendations. An impression of a recent English 
 Atlas was also meditated, with the names in Turkish ; part or the 
 whole of which is reported to have been since executed. 
 
 The £era of the introduction of printing into Turkey, was 1139 of 
 the Hegira (A.D. 1761): the works then printed, according to the 
 learned author of the book De Fatis Linguarum Orientalium, whose 
 report I have since for the most part verified, were the following : 
 
 1. Ketab Loghat Wankuli. — An Arabo-Turkish Lexicon, a. H. 
 
 2 tom. in folio, - - - _ - _ 1141 
 
 2. Tuhfat el Kubar. — A History of the maritime wars of 
 
 the Ottomans, _____ 1141 
 
 3. Tarikhes Seyah. — A History of the wars between the Ag- 
 
 whans and the Persians, - - - _ 1142 
 
 4. Tarikh el Hind el Ghurbi. — History of America, - 1142
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. ^55 
 
 5. Tarikh Timuri. — History of Timur leng, - - 1142 
 
 6. Tarikh Misr kadim we Misr gidid. — History of ancient and 
 
 modern Egypt, - - - - -1142 
 
 7. Ghiulsheni Chulifa. — History of the Chalifs, - - 1143 
 
 8. A Tnrkish and French Grammar, - _ _ 1143 
 
 9. Nizam el umen. — (Qu. ?) A treatise on government, 1144 
 
 10. Feiaz el Maknatissie. — On the load stone, - - 1144 
 
 11. Gihan Name. — An atlas, _ _ _ _ 1145 
 
 12. Tekwimi Tawarikh. — Chronological tables, - - 1146 
 
 13. Tarikh Neima. — Ottoman annals, - _ _ 1147 
 
 14. Tarikh Rashid EfFendi. — Ottoman annals, - - 1153 
 
 15. Tarikh ahwali ghazawat Diar Bosna. — History of the war 
 
 with the Austrians, - - _ _ _ 1154 
 
 16. Firkenghi Shuri. — A Persian and Turkish Lexicon, - 1155 
 In the year 1155 (A. D. 1777), the use of the press was discon- 
 tinued, in consequence of the death of Ibrahim Mutefarika, the in- 
 telligent and active supporter of the institution. 
 
 The war with the Austrians, in 1158, effectually impeded any 
 farther progress. 
 
 Another firman was afterwards issued for its restoration by Abd-el- 
 Hamid, when the only books printed, were, 
 
 1. Tarikhi Sami, we Sachir, we Subhi. — Annals composed by these 
 
 three public historiographers. 
 
 2. Tarikhi Yzzi. — Another of the same kind. 
 
 3. An Arabian and Turkish Grammar, by Ibnel Hajib. 
 
 In consequence of the subsequent war with Russia, want of expert 
 hands, new types, and other causes, the press was stopped from 1786 
 to 1797. New types were then cast by an Armenian ; since which 
 time there have been printed the following books, according to a list 
 which I received on the spot : 
 
 1. Burhani Kate. — A Persian and Turkish Lexicon, published, how- 
 
 ever, without corrections or improvements. 
 
 2. Tehfa Wahbi sherai heiati Afendinin. — A vocabulary. 
 
 X 2
 
 156 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 S. Let^he Loght. — Another philological work. 
 
 * O O AC? 
 
 4. Loghat Wancuil, was in the press. 
 
 Here let me acknowledge my obligation for various kinds of in- 
 formation to Mohammed Emin EfFendi, better known in Constan- 
 tinople by the name of Rijani EfFendi, who is distinguished by zeal in 
 the acquisition and propagation of useful knowledge ; and whose mild 
 and conciliating manners give effect to his patriotism and benevolence. 
 Some such characters still exist in the capital of the Osraanli ; but, 
 alas ! their number is too small, and their voices too feeble, to awaken 
 their countrymen from the degrading and oblivious slumber in which 
 they have been so long buried. 
 
 There are in Constantinople twelve Maddrasses, or public acade- 
 mies, each of which bears the name of its founder. The same regu- 
 lations and the same course of lectures, with slight exceptions, prevail 
 in all these establishments. The salaries of the professors are not con- 
 siderable, though more than proportionate to the effect of their labours. 
 Their holidays are Tuesday and Friday in every week ; three days of 
 Beiram, which succeeds to Ramadan ; and the ten days devoted to 
 Courban Beiram ; lastly, part of the month Rajib ; and the whole of 
 Shaban and Ramadan. The Mektebs, in which reading and writ- 
 ing only are taught, and which answer to our day-schools, are very 
 numerous. These, and the Maddrasses, or superior academies, may 
 be said to comprehend the whole system of education at Constan- 
 tinople : if we add the instructions given at the mathematical school 
 at the arsenal and the new marine school at the bottom of the port ; 
 instructions, it must be observed, rather nominal than real. 
 
 Exclusively of the library spoken * of in the Seraglio, which I have 
 never seen, there are twelve public libraries : 
 
 1. That of Agia Sophia. 3. That of Mohammed II. 
 
 2. Suleyman. 4. Kiupruli pasha. 
 
 • See Professor Cavlyle's letter, in the first volume of this work, respecting the Seraglio 
 library.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 257 
 
 5. That of Walide. 9. That of Bayazid. 
 
 (>. Seid ali pasha. 10. Osman III. 
 
 7. Ibrahim pasha. 11. Abd-el-Hamid. 
 
 8. Atef affendi. 12. Rughib pasha. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS. 
 
 It is a ride of about nine miles from Boyuk-dere to the place where 
 the coal appears ; the country is picturesque and interesting. The 
 strata, externally, are shallow and unpromising : perhaps at a greater 
 depth better veins might be found. All that is visible has decidedly 
 the appearance of wood, more or less bituminated. The dip, westward, 
 is about 15°, and there is also an inclination inwards. It is lono- since 
 the coal was wrought ; and it appears that the workmen contented 
 themselves with what was to be found near the surface. A supply of 
 it would doubtless be advantageous near the capital, for culinary 
 purposes, blacksmith's work and various coarse arts, as well as for 
 heating the baths, since wood is rising in price. But in regulatino- 
 the temperature of habitable apartments, it could never be used with- 
 out a totally different arrangement in the edifices ; and it may be 
 doubtful how far the exhalation of fossil coal would be agreeable to 
 nostrils accustomed to the more grateful odour of wood. 
 
 At Yeni Capu, the new gate, on the south side of the city, is seen 
 a range of coffee-houses, raised partly on ground recovered from the 
 sea, partly on piles. These were constructed by order of Sultan Mus- 
 tapha. They are spacious, neat, and convenient ; an ample awning 
 of canvas protects the head from the sun, and it is open below to the 
 sea-breeze. This place is much frequented by those whose leisure 
 permits them to employ much of the day in idleness. On a 
 Thursday, and during the month Ramadan, respectable persons
 
 158 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 assemble there ; on a Friday, those of an inferior class. \Miere 
 indolence is considered as happiness, it may be supposed that such a 
 recreation is in no small esteem ; numbers, therefore, consume the 
 day in listening to the mueddahs, or professed story-tellers. A 
 greater variety of musical instruments is observable here, perhaps, 
 than in any other part of the capital. Of the former, the following 
 are the most conspicuous : 
 
 1. Tambiir ; an instrument with eight strings. 
 
 2. Sheshadar and Santur ; a species of harps.* 
 
 3. Nei or Duduk ; a flute like the German. 
 
 4. Keman, of two or three kinds, resembling the violin, and viol 
 
 da gambo. 
 
 5. Daire ; a circle covered with skin, and having jingling pieces of 
 
 brass round it. 
 
 6. Mescal, a Syrinx, i. e. reeds oi canes of unequal length, some- 
 
 times to the number of twenty-three. 
 
 An instrument, similar to the bag-pipe, is in use in European 
 Turkey ; it consists of an entire goat-skin, which, when sounded, is 
 placed on the breast of the performer. The sound is far more agree- 
 able than with us ; and the drone is avoided. 
 
 The mosque dedicated to Aivib (whom the popular voice at Constan- 
 tinople reports to have been the prophet's standard-bearer, I know 
 not with what reason,) which had fallen into a state of decay, has 
 been rebuilt by Selim the Third ; and though not among the most 
 capacious edifices, is elegant and richly adorned. The internal struc- 
 ture is composed of marble, and numerous lamps of silver ; some of 
 
 • " Citterns, harps, and recorders, are their principal instruments." — Sandys' Travels, 
 p. 56.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 159 
 
 which are gill, and depend from the roof. The floor is spread with 
 sumptuous carpets. The structure is at the bottom of the port ; and 
 not far from it is an Imare, a spacious school and many shops. A 
 vast pile, intended for barracks, and situated at the east end of the 
 arsenal, is also due to Selim the Third, whose buildings seem to be 
 more numerous than those of any former prince who has filled the 
 seat of Othman. 
 
 There is a kind of fine porcelain, or China-ware, much esteemed in 
 the East, from the prevalent credulity which is common there re- 
 specting its supposed properties. It is distinguished by the name of 
 Mir taban, and is said to indicate poison, if any exist in the food. 
 From this prejudice, a plate or other vessel, composed of this ma- 
 terial, is sometimes sold for three or four hundred piastres. The ab- 
 surdity of the idea is evident ; but it might be curious to know how 
 it originated. 
 
 It is well known that the usages of the country do not admit of the 
 intended bride being seen by the husband before marriage. The 
 woman may, however, more easily satisfy her curiosity regarding the 
 person of the man ; though even that is not always possible. This 
 state of restraint gives rise to several practices, tending to facilitate 
 mutual approximation. Among them are to be enumerated the ex- 
 istence of professed match makers, who make the occupation profitable 
 to themselves, in a manner not difficult to be understood. The ex- 
 cellent qualities of the future bride and bridegroom are repeated to 
 the persons concerned, of course with great exaggeration. Accord- 
 ingly, if the parties be credulous or inexperienced, a connection takes 
 place, which, in many cases, is terminated by divorce in a few days 
 afterwards. 
 
 Some account of the forms which are observed, with little vari- 
 ation, in matrimonial contracts, may not be wholly uninteresting.
 
 160 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 Each of the parties chuses a wakil, or procurator, and two witnesses, 
 who are to agree before the Imam, or priest, on the sum to be given 
 by the man. towards furnishing at least one room of the house with 
 cushions, carpets, and other necessary articles ; and likewise on 
 the Nikah, which is not paid immediately, but is demandable by the 
 woman in case of a divorce. The paper, setting forth the particulars 
 of this agreement, is drawn up and signed by the witnesses ; hence 
 the married woman is called kitabie, wife hy venting. The Imam re- 
 ceives a proper present ; often a benish, or outer vesture : the other 
 parties are gratified by presents of smaller value. From this time to 
 the day of marriage, a fete is celebrated ; and the house of the bride- 
 groom is kept open to every person of the mahhal, or parish ; and 
 even strangers are allowed to enter. Sometimes dishonest persons 
 gain admission, and carry off such portable articles as are exposed to 
 their depredations ; they have been known to slip off the amber 
 mouth-pieces of the pipes, and escape with them. 
 
 The common expenses of a marriage, in Constantinople, costs a 
 man, on a moderate estimate, a full year of his income, and some- 
 times more. Thus, to a person of middle rank, they will amount to 
 2000 or 2500 piastres. 
 
 When the day of marriage arrives, the bridegroom is conducted to 
 the apartment of the bride, by the Imam, and the rest of the com- 
 pany ; the Imam places his back against the door, and commences a 
 kind of prayer, to which, when terminated, the company present reply. 
 Amen ; after which they all retire to their own houses. 
 
 The bridegroom knocks at the door three times, which is then 
 opened by the Yeni chatun, or bride maid, who replies to the " Salam 
 aleikum" of the bridegroom, conducts him to the bride, and puts her 
 right hand in his. She then quits the room to bring in the SufFra, 
 or eating table, which is placed near at hand ; furnished commonly 
 with a roasted fowl and some other trifles. 
 
 While she is absent, the husband tries to uncover his wife's face, 
 which is overspread with a long veil ; to the removal of which the estab- 
 lished rules of decorum require that she should offer some resistance.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. J^l 
 
 He presents to her some ornament, generally of jewellery, which she 
 accepts after proper hesitation ; and at length consents to abandon her 
 veil. They sit down at table, and the husband divides the fowl with 
 nis hands, offering a portion to the woman, which she receives. Much 
 time is not consumed in eating, and the suffra being removed, they 
 wash. The Yeni chatun then brings the bed, which she spreads on 
 the floor. She takes out the bride to her mother and the women, 
 who are in the next room, where she is undressed ; after which the 
 Yeni chatun brings her back to her husband, places her right hand in 
 his, and leaves them together. 
 
 The last ceremony is that of the bride being conducted in form 
 to the bath. This takes place at the expiration of six or seven days. 
 
 The custom of throwing the handkerchief is frequently in the popu- 
 lar mouth, and supposed to be reported from undisputed fact. I have 
 never been able to ascertain that such a practice was in use in the 
 Harems of the Great, or among any other class of women at Con- 
 stantinople, or in any of the towns of the East. In the West of Turkey, 
 indeed, a custom prevails, which, transmitted by report through the 
 medium of the Germans or Venetians, may possibly have given rise 
 to the prevalent opinion on the subject. 
 
 In a part of Bosnia, young girls of the jNIohammedan faith are per- 
 mitted to walk about in the day-time, with their faces uncovered. 
 Any man of the place, who is inclined to matrimony, if he happens 
 to be pleased with any of these girls, whom he sees in passing, throws 
 an embroidered handkerchief on her head or neck. If he have not a 
 handkerchief, any other part of his dress answers the same purpose. 
 The girl then retires to her home, regards herself as betrothed, and 
 appears no more in public. I learned from a Bosniak of veracity, 
 that this is an usual preliminary to marriage, in the place where he 
 was born. 
 
 An idea has very generally prevailed in the West of Europe, and 
 has been countenanced by some respectable travellers in the East, 
 that marriages of a temporary nature, termed Kabin, are in use among 
 the JNIohammedans of the Turkish empire, and are deemed valid by 
 
 VOL. II. Y
 
 jg2 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 their public law. I have even been personally assured by an Italian 
 of intelligence and veracity, who had resided many years in the island 
 of Cyprus and in Syria, that in the course of a long conversation with 
 a Mulla, on the comparative advantages and conveniences of the 
 Christian and Mohammedan laws relating to matrimony, the latter 
 had insisted strongly on this valuable prerogative of his countrymen. 
 
 I mean not to apply terms either of censure or approbation to the 
 sentiments expressed by the Mulla respecting the advantages of such 
 a practice ; but I must remark that after searching for traces of such 
 contracts in books of jurisprudence, and making repeated and careful 
 enquiries among intelligent Mohammedans at Constantinople and in 
 other parts of the empire, I have found no reason to believe that such 
 engagements had any legal validity ; on the contrary, passages from 
 the juridical writers have been quoted to me to prove that usufruc- 
 tuary marriages, nekah el metaat, and temporary marriages, nekah el 
 mu-d-okkat, which are esteemed nearly the same, are decidedly illegal. 
 The English reader will find this confirmed, by referring to vol. i. 
 p. 92. of Mr. C. Hamilton's Code of Mohammedan Laws. 
 
 I therefore conclude, notwithstanding the popular and current 
 opinion on this subject, that when such a practice obtains, it has no 
 other sanction than it would receive from the agreement of the parties, 
 as might happen in any other country ; and that it cannot be con- 
 sidered as permitted by the jurists, or recognised by the tribunals. 
 
 Kabin is a Persian word, which literally signifies promissio donorum 
 sponsalitiorum, (see Ferhenghi Shauri) ; but has not the import com- 
 monly assigned to it. 
 
 As A SEQUEL to the foregoing Extracts it will not be deemed improper to 
 subjoin a short Account, derived from authentic sources and, in part, from 
 Mr. Browne's own papers, of the Life of their estimable Author ; whose 
 labours have extended the bounds of geographical knowledge, and whose
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 163 
 
 melancholy fate, in the prosecution of further discoveries, cannot but be 
 interesting to the reader of these pages. 
 
 William George Browxe was the son of a respectable wine-merchant in 
 London, the descendant of an ancient family of that name in Cumberland, 
 and was born at his father's house on Great Tower HUl, on the 25th of 
 July, 1768. Being originally of a feeble constitution, his health was, for 
 many years, an object of constant anxiety to a tender and affectionate 
 mother. His education, till he went to Oxford, was entirely private ; and 
 was principally conducted by the Rev. Mr. Whalley,. known as an editor of 
 Ben Jonson's works ; a man of considerable taste and learning, to whom he 
 always acknowledged himself to be under great obligations. At the age of 
 seventeen he was sent to Oriel College, which did not then enjoy that high 
 reputation, which it has since deservedly acquired. He frequently com- 
 plained in after life, that although, on his entrance at the University, he had a 
 decided taste for literature and a strong desire of improvement, he met with 
 no encouragement and little assistance, in his academical studies. He ap- 
 plied himself, however, with great diligence to a course of classical reading ; 
 and went carefully through the whole of the Greek and Latin historians. 
 He also made some progress in mathematics, and took a wide range in mis- 
 cellaneous and general literature. His industry, at this time, was such, that 
 he used to read from twelve to fifteen hours a day ; by which his health was 
 sensibly affected. 
 
 After the usual period of academical residence, it was necessary to think of 
 some plan for his future life ; and his genuine love of learning, combined with 
 a grave and studious disposition, naturally directed his attention towards the 
 Church ; to which indeed he had been originally destined by his famdy. 
 But the instinct of adventure, and a certain passion for arduous enterprises 
 which he even then secretly cherished, suggested to him the idea of some 
 active employment ; and he turned his thoughts for a short time to the Army. 
 A little reflection, however, con^^nced him of the inexpediency of following 
 a profession, to which he was, in other respects, little inclined, and for which 
 he was not at all suited by his character and habits. Law and medicine re- 
 mained ; and after deliberating a short time between the two, he made choice 
 of the former ; and, taking chambers in the Temple, he for some time kept 
 bis terms, and attended the courts at Westminster. But, after a certain 
 period, he deliberately relinquished that arduous pursuit; and contenting 
 himself with the moderate competence of wliich he had become possessed on 
 
 y 2
 
 164 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 his fatlier's death, lived afterwards without any profession or regular em- 
 ployment. 
 
 The internal between the time of lea\-ing the University and his expedition 
 to Africa in 1791, he devoted principally to general literature. He improved 
 himself also in modern languages, and cultivated, in a certain degree, a taste 
 for the fine arts. What was most important, he acquired some knowledge 
 of the general principles of botany, chemistry and mineralogy, which he 
 found afterwards of the greatest use to him in his Travels. During the latter 
 part of this jjcriod, his attention was strongly tirawn to the early occur- 
 rences of the Trench Revolution ; and he became zealously attached to the 
 principles of civil liberty, which appeared at first to be intimately connected 
 with that event. He adopted, and caused to be engraved on his rings and 
 seals, the motto taken by the learned Selden, " n.=pi wxvtos ExsuOspiav :" and 
 he entered with the greatest warmtli and interest into the political discussions 
 of that eventful period. Extraordinary as this passion may seem in a retired 
 and solitary student, such instances were far from being uncommon among 
 the men of letters of those times. In most of them, indeed, the enthusiasm 
 was only temporary, and passed away with the events which had given it 
 birth : in others, it changed its direction, and, without any abatement of its 
 original violence, went over to the opposite extreme. As Mr. Browne's opi- 
 nions were more reasonable, they were more permanent ; and his zeal, being 
 tempered by knowledge and founded on conviction, underwent no material 
 change during the remainder of his life. 
 
 As the most unexceptionable, and at the same time the most effectual, 
 mode of promoting these principles, Mr. Browne had recourse to the press. 
 He republished, at liis own expense, several political tracts, with short pre- 
 faces. He also reprinted a part of Buchanan's treatise " De Jure Regni apud 
 Scotos ;" and he projected a plan of publishing, in an elegant form, a col- 
 lection of the best tracts on Government which have appeared since the 
 revival of letters, with a copious introduction and occasional notes. The 
 subsequent events of Mr. Browne's life put an end, shortly afterwards, to this 
 favourite scheme. 
 
 From a very early period, he had entertained the hope of signalising 
 himself as a traveller and explorer of remote or unknown countries ; 
 and many adventurous projects of this description had floated, at times, 
 across his imagination. Among many others which were much more nsion- 
 ary, he had once foniied a plan of making a complete classical survey of
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 155 
 
 Greece, then comparatively an unknown country. But he reluctantly 
 abandoned this design, from an apprehension that liis knowledge of the Greek 
 language and literature was not sufficiently accurate or extensive to justify 
 such an undertaking. 
 
 He had been a diligent reader from his early youth of Travels and 
 Voyages ; but it was the publication of Bruce's Travels in Abyssinia, which 
 gave the immediate impulse to his ambition, and determined him to lose no 
 further time in carrying his long meditated designs into effect. The style 
 and subject, no less than the contents, of that remarkable and, in some 
 respects, highly interesting work, inflamed his curiosity, and called forth all 
 his enthusiasm ; and he became impatient to follow the same course, to 
 struggle with the same difficulties, and to pursue the same victorious career. 
 He read likewise, about the same time, and with similar emotions, the first 
 volume, then lately published, of the Proceedings of the African Association j 
 a book abounding with new and interesting views of the vast continent of 
 Africa, and opening an unbounded field for enterprise and geographical 
 discovery. 
 
 The perusal of these works led immediately to Mr. Brownie's first expe- 
 dition, and determined him to attempt a passage into the interior of Africa. 
 His general qualifications for sucli an luidertaking may be collected from the 
 foregoing narrative. His physical and moral qualities he has himself thus 
 shortly and correctly described, in a paper which he lias left upon this sub- 
 ject : — " Among the requisites for my journey, of which self examination 
 " induced me to believe myself possessed, were, a good constitution, which, 
 " though far from robust, was, I knew, capable of enduring fatigue and 
 " change ; steadiness to my purpose, and much indifference to personal ac- 
 " commodations and enjoyments ; together with a degree of patience which 
 " could endure reverses and disappointments without murmuring." 
 
 Having determined on proceeding to the interior of Africa by the Egyptian 
 route, Mr. Browne left England at the close of the year 1791, and arrived 
 early in January at Alexandria. After gratifying his curiosity during a re- 
 sidence in that city of near two months, he took a journey westward into the 
 desert to explore the unknown scite of the temple of Jupiter Ammon. With 
 this view he proceeded, by a very circuitous direction and along the sea-coast, 
 to the Oasis of Siwah j where his attention was attracted to the remains of a
 
 166 
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 remarkable and very ancient edifice of Eg}^tian architecture. As tradition 
 was entirely silent concerning these ruins, they afforded a ready subject for 
 any hj^iothesis which the imagination of a discoverer might suggest ; and 
 few travellers in Mr. Browne's situation would have found it difficult to 
 satisfy themselves that they had succeeded in the object of their search. He 
 gave, therefore, an unquestionable proof of great candour and sincerity, and 
 of that calm and dispassionate tone of mind which was one of his peculiar 
 characteristics, when he determined, whether rightly or not, that the 
 buUtling in question was not the temple of Jupiter Amnion. * After expe- 
 riencing great difficulty and some danger from the bigotry and violence of 
 the inhabitants, and exhausting all means of enquiry with regard to any other 
 ruins likely to be found in that neighbourhood, he penetrated three days 
 farther into the desert ; but finding nothing which bore the most remote 
 resemblance to the object of his enquiry, returned to Alexandi'ia early in 
 April 1792, after an absence of several weeks. 
 
 His health had suffered considerably from this journey ; and after a month 
 passed in recovering from its effects, he proceeded to Rosetta; where he 
 beheld, for the first time, with the greatest astonishment and dehght, the 
 luxuriant fertility of the Delta, and *' the unruffled weight of waters of the 
 " majestic Nile."t From thence he went to Damietta, and to the cele- 
 brated Natron Lakes, east of the Nile, which he examined with great 
 
 * Major Rennell, who is justly regarded as the greatest authority upon such subjects, 
 has decided this question in tlie affirmative. His opinion has been generally followed ; 
 and the place, where these ruins were found, is now known by the appellation of the Oasis 
 of Avimon. But the judgment of an intelligent eye-witness is entitled to considerable 
 weight ; and the question may still, perhaps, be acknowledged to be somewhat doubtful. — 
 The marked and appropriate praise which Major Rennell has bestowed upon Mr. Browne, 
 with reference to the present subject, may be worth transcribing. 
 
 " The discovery of the temple itself, and the circumstances belonging to the Oasis 
 " which contain it, together with the operation of fixing its geographical position to a 
 " degree of exactness sufficiently critical to admit of a comparison with the ancient de- 
 " scriptions, could not perhaps have been accomplished otherwise than by the zeal, per- 
 " severance, and skill of an European. Mr. Browne is therefore entitled to great praise 
 " for his spirit of enterprize, which bade defiance to the hardships and dangers consequent 
 " on an undertaking similar to that which has been so much celebrated in the history of 
 " the Macedonian conqueror; and which was unquestionably performed with much more 
 " personal risk on the part of our countryniun than on that of Alexander," — Geograjihical 
 System of Herodotus by James Rennell. 4to. 1800. p. 603. 
 
 f Sec Mr. Browne's Travels in Africa. 4to. 1799- p. 31.
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. Jg^ 
 
 accuracy ; and after visiting the Coptic Convents, embarked on the Nile, 
 and arrived at Cairo on the l6th of May. 
 
 He established himself for some time in that city, where he resided at 
 different periods, for the space of eleven months ; and where, as he had before 
 done at Alexandria, he applied himself with great diUgence to the study of 
 the Arabic language and of Oriental customs and manners, in which he 
 afterwards became so remarkable a proficient. He also acquired a very 
 accurate and detailed knowledge of the different classes of which the Egyptian 
 population is composed, and of the remarkable system of usurpation then esta- 
 blished by the Beys, which had superseded the ancient Turkish government. 
 
 On the 10th of September he left Cairo, with the intention of travelling 
 into Abyssinia, and sailing up the Nile as far as Thebes, employed some 
 days in surveying those venerable ruins, probably the most ancient in the 
 world, which extend for three leagues on each side the river, and shew the 
 circumference of the city to have been about twenty-seven miles ! 
 
 Proceeding farther up the Nile he came to Assuan (Syene), the ancient 
 boundary of the Roman Empire. Here he visited the famous cataracts of 
 the Nile, or more properly speaking, rapids ; for instead of deafening the 
 spectator with their sound, according to the fabulous accounts of antiquity, 
 he found theii" noise scarcely audible. 
 
 At Assuan Mr. Browne endeavoured to penetrate into Nubia ; but a war 
 having broken out between the Mamluks of Upper Egypt and a neighbouring 
 chief, no person was suffered to pass from Egv'pt into that country. After 
 many ineffectual attempts, he was obliged to abandon all hopes of reaching 
 Abyssinia during that season. 
 
 Deeply mortified at this disappointment, he reluctantly traced back his 
 steps towards Cairo ; when, having proceeded down the Nile as far as Genne, 
 he recollected the striking description in Bruce's Travels of the great quarries 
 situated between that place and the Red Sea, in the direction of Cossir. It 
 happened from several causes, that a journey from Genne to Cossir was 
 attended at that time with considerable danger. But, by a successfid as- 
 sumption of the Oriental dress and character, he performed it in safety ; and 
 his curiosity was amply rewarded. He passed through unmense excavations, 
 appearing to have been formed in the earliest ages ; from which many of the 
 great Egyptian monuments were obtained, and which furnished statues, 
 columns and obelisks without number to the wealthy and luxurious inha- 
 bitants of the Roman Empire, at its most flourishing period. He viewed with
 
 ]gg BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 astonishment those exhaiistless quarries of granite, of porphyry, and of verd 
 antique, (now abandoned and become the abode of banditti or wandering 
 tribes,) which suppHed the most costly materials of ancient art, and to which 
 modern Rome is indebted for some of her principal decorations. 
 
 It may be remarked on this occasion, that Mr. Browne was desirous of 
 ascertaining from whence the basalt, so much used by the ancient Eg}iitian 
 artists, was procured ; but his enquiries on this subject were unsuccessful. He 
 observed no quarries of basalt either in Egypt or any other part of Africa. * 
 
 He returned to Cairo in the month of December 179^, and soon after- 
 wards \dsited Lake Maoris and the Pyramids ; and in the following Spring 
 took a journey to Suez and Mount Sinai. 
 
 Having now seen the whole of Egypt, it became necessary for him to form 
 his plan for visiting the interior of Africa. It had been his original intention 
 to endeavour to penetrate to the source of the great western branch of the 
 NUe, (the Bahr-el-abiad, sometimes called the White River,) which, from 
 being considerably longer than the eastern branch, explored by Bruce, was 
 justly regarded by Mr. Browne as the true and genuine Nile. But the 
 sources of this river are extremely remote, being laid down by geographers 
 two hundred leagues farther south than the sources of the eastern branch ; 
 and, enterprizing and adventurous as our traveller was, he considered the 
 prospect of accomplishing such a journey, through unknown and barbarous 
 countries, and in a tropical climate, to be altogether desperate. He had, 
 therefore, determined to limit his views to Abyssinia ; and to attempt nothing 
 further than to go carefully, and with geographical exactness, over the ground 
 already traversed by Bruce, to investigate the accuracy of his statements, and 
 to take the chance of such farther discoveries as enquiry might produce, or 
 accident cast in his way. 
 
 But the anarchy and desolation caused by the war which had prevented 
 his journey through Nubia during the former year, still continued, according 
 to the best information he could obtain, to oppose insurmountable obstacles 
 to his passage through that country. Another route to Abyssinia by the 
 Red Sea and Massouah was also stated, upon good authority, to be imprac- 
 ticable at that period ; and Mr. Browne thought he had no alternative left 
 but to accompany the great Soudan Caravan t to Dar-Fiir, a considerable 
 
 * Browne's Travels, p. 142. 
 
 f Soudan in Arabic means the Country of the Negroes. — Brornie.
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. I59 
 
 Mohammedan country, lying west of Abyssinia, and north of the sources of 
 the White River. There was some reason to believe that he might be able 
 to penetrate from thence into Abyssinia ; and he might perhaps obtain im- 
 portant information regarding that unkno\Mi branch of the Nile, which had 
 engaged so much of his attention. Independently of these considerations, 
 the journey, by a new direction, from Egypt into the interior of Africa and 
 the country of Dar-Fiir, which no European had ever yet visited, were in 
 themsehes interesting objects, and aftbrded a reasonable prospect of gratify- 
 ing his curiosity and rewarding his exertions. 
 
 The caravan which Mr. Bro^\^^e accompanied left Egypt early in May, 1793, 
 at the hottest season of the year (the thennometer, during the journey, being 
 occasionally at 116° in the shade); and, after inconceivable hardships and 
 fatigues, arrived in Dar-Fiir about the end of July, when the great rains had 
 commenced. It appeared, immediately on Mr. Browne's arrival, that he had 
 been entirely misinformed as to the character of the government, which he 
 had understood to be mild and tolerant. From his first entrance into the 
 country, owing in part to the treachery and intrigues of the servant he had 
 brought from Cairo, but principally from the natural bigotiy and violence of 
 the reigning sovereign, he was treated with the utmost harshness and severity ; 
 and this cii-cumstance, together with the fatigues of his late journey, and the 
 effects of the rainy season, (so formidable to European constitutions,) pro- 
 duced, very speedily, a dangerous and almost fatal illness, from which he 
 recovered very slowly and with great difficulty. 
 
 His first object, after the partial restoration of his health, was to obtain 
 permission to quit the country ; for which purpose he attempted a nego- 
 ciation with a principal minister of the Sultan, which was wholly without 
 effect. After this failure, and after having been plundered in various ways 
 of the greater part of his effects, he resigned himself to his fate ; and esta- 
 blishing his residence in a clay-built house or hovel at Cobbe, the capital town 
 of Dar-Fur, he cultivated an acquaintance with the principal inhabitants, and 
 acquired such a knowledge of the Arabic dialect used in that country as to 
 enable him to partake of their society and conversation. 
 
 He renewed his applications, however, from time to time ; and continued, 
 more than two years, to be a suitor at the Sultan's court for liberty to depart. 
 To attempt to give an adequate idea of his sufferings during this long period 
 of captivity would greatly exceed the limits of the present narrati\"e. In a 
 
 VOL. II. z
 
 l^Q BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 burning climate, without books or amusements, unthout society, and almost 
 without resources, surrounded by dangers, and in utter hopelessness of" 
 escape, — it is wonderful that he did not entirely sink under such an accu- 
 mulation of sufferings. That his health and spirits did not altogether desert 
 him ; still more, that he was able to collect much curious and minute in- 
 formation respecting the diseases, the natural history, the agricultiu-e, the 
 manners and language of the country in which he was thus detained, can 
 only be attributed to that force of character, and invincible serenity and 
 firmness of mind, for which ho was doubtless very remarkable, and which 
 place him on a level with the most distinguished travellers. 
 
 Among the expedients he adopted to relieve his emmi, there is one which 
 deserves to be mentioned. He purchased two lions, whom he tamed and 
 rendered familiar. One of them, being bought at four months old, acquired 
 most of the habits of a dog. He took great pleasure in feeding them, and 
 observing their actions and manners. Many moments of languor were 
 soothed by the company of these animals. * 
 
 At length, owing to causes not sufficiently explained, possibly from mere 
 caprice, the desired permission to quit Dar-Fur was reluctantly granted ; and 
 Mr. Browne departed in the Spring of 1796, after a constrained residence of 
 nearly three years. He returned to Egj^t, travelling, as before, with the 
 Soudan, caravan, during the hottest season. When he arrived at Assiut, on 
 the banks of the Nile, it was four months since he had tasted animal food ; 
 and he was detained there some time by a severe illness, the consequence of 
 liardship and fatigue. Immediately after his recovery he proceeded to 
 Cairo, where he remained till the month of December following. 
 
 In January 1797 he embarked at Damietta for the coast of Syria ; and 
 after visiting Palestine, proceeded, by Acre and Tripoli, to Aleppo, and re- 
 mained there some weeks. From Aleppo he went to Damascus, where he 
 was charmed alike by the excellence of the climate, the fertility of the soil, 
 and the beauties of the surrounding country. He continued at Damascus 
 two months -, and, after viewing the ruins of Balbec, returned to Aleppo, 
 and proceeding through Asia Minor, arrived on the 9th of December I797 
 at Constantinople. 
 
 * Travels, p. 262.
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. j^j 
 
 Having resided several months in that capital, he returned by way of 
 Vienna, Berlin, and Hamburg, to England ; and arrived in London on the 
 Kith of September, 1798, after an absence of nearly seven years. 
 
 During the course of his journey, and indeed before he left Egypt, 
 Mr. Browne had lost, by several accidents, some of the most valuable journals 
 and registers which he had kept in Africa, and especially during his resi- 
 dence in Dar-Fur. But several important papers still remained ; and he em- 
 ployed himself for some time in collecting from those materials, and preparing 
 for the press such information as he judged to be new or important. He 
 ])ublished his work in the Spring of the year 1800, under the title of " Travels 
 in Africa, Eg}^t, and Syria from the Year 1792 to 1798." 
 
 It was a work of some expectation ; and no labour was spared by its 
 author to render it fit, according to his conceptions, for the public eye ; but 
 notwithstanding this labour, and the novelty and interest of the information 
 which it contained, it had no success and has never become popular. Tlie 
 causes of this failure are sufficiently obvious. The style is abrupt, artificial, 
 and not without affectation ; and the work, -considered as a whole, has little 
 that is engaging or attractive. It contains some passages offensive to good 
 taste, and a few that are more seriously objectionable. It is written throughout 
 with a certain coldness and languor ; and is altogether deficient, not only in 
 that spirit with w^iich great enterprizes ought to be described, but in those 
 picturesque touches which give life and reality to a narrative, and espe- 
 cially to a book of Travels. 
 
 Such faults (and some of them are important) could not be overlooked by 
 the public. But, independently of these objections, the work must be ac- 
 knowledged to contain much that was new and valuable. It bears indis- 
 putable marks of industry, learning, and great accuracy. Many of the details 
 concerning Egj'pt, although now superseded by the accounts of later travel- 
 lers, were at that time highly interesting ; and the information it supplies 
 respecting the interior of the African Contment can never cease to be of 
 importance. 
 
 It is the value and authenticity of this information, which constitute the 
 essential merit of Mr. Browne's work ; and whatever may be thought of his 
 talents as a writer, he has certainly acquired a high rank among geographical 
 discoverers. Upon this subject the testimony of Major Rennell is fldl and
 
 2»j2 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 explicit, and must be acknowledged to be altogether conclusive. The follow- 
 ino- is an extract from his Geographical System of Herodotus, which was 
 published about the same time as the work in question, 
 
 " Since this section went to the press the author has had the satisfaction 
 to peruse Mr. Browne's Travels in Africa ; wliich he conceives will be 
 classed among the first performances of this kind. The aids it brings to 
 geography are great, and will probably lead to further discoveries ; as it 
 forms a link between Abyssinia on the east, and Bornou on the west. 
 Moreover, it confirms, in a great degree, two positions advanced in the 
 present system of African geography ; first, that the Niger does not join the 
 Nile ; and secondly, that the most remote head of the Nile is 7iot situated in 
 the quarter of Abyssinia, but far to the south-west of it." — Geographical 
 System of Herodotus, 4to. p. 480. 
 
 Mr. Browne had no sooner completed the publication of his Travels than 
 he began to prepare for another journey. He quitted England in the 
 summer of 1800, and proceeded, by BerUn and Vienna, to Trieste, He re- 
 mained there a short time ; and early in the following year embarked at that 
 port for the Levant, when he visited Athens and Smyrna, and afterwards 
 went to Constantinople ; and from thence, after some stay, proceeded by a 
 land-journey to Antioch, and subsequently to Cyprus and Egypt. Here he 
 remained a considerable time, and passed the greater part of the Winter at 
 Cairo. In the Spring of the following year (ISO'^) he went to Salonika, and 
 took the opportunity of visiting Mount Athos ; and proceeded thence, by 
 Albania and the Ionian islands, to Venice, where he rested for several 
 months. 
 
 From Venice, in the year 1803, he went to Sicily, which was then occupied 
 by English troops, and employed a considerable time in viewing the antiquities 
 with which that classical country abounds, and in examining every part of 
 the interior. The neighbouring cluster of Lipari islands next engaged his 
 attention ; and after making a complete survey of that volcanic archipelago, 
 he returned, at length, reluctantly to England. 
 
 After his arrival, and as soon as he was settled in London, he employed 
 himself for some time in arranging the materials collected during his last 
 journey, with a view to publication. He made a considerable progress in 
 this undertaking ; but afterwards laid it aside, whether with an intention of 
 resuming it at some subsequent period, or from feeling the difficulty of 
 throwing any new light upon countries so often described, cannot now be
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. I73 
 
 ascertained. — It must be observed that the Extracts from Mr. BrowTie's 
 papers, contained in this publication, are selected from the manuscript volume 
 which he prepared on the occasion here alluded to. 
 
 The intervals between Mr. Browne's journies were periods of bodily repose ; 
 but they were not passed in idleness. Since his last return to London he had 
 resumed his former habits, which were those of a severe student. Oriental 
 and classical, especially Greek, literature furnished regular employment for 
 the greater part of his day ; and his hours of relaxation were dedicated to 
 Voyages and Travels. He mixed little, if at all, in general society, saw few 
 friends, and those men of literature or science ; and led the life of a retired 
 scholar and recluse in the vast sfilitude of the metropolis. 
 
 His friendships, especially those contracted in the latter part of his life, 
 were almost invariably founded upon similarity of studies and pursuits. 
 Among these it may be proper to mention the connection which he formed 
 about this time with the late amiable and excellent Mr. Smithson Tennant, 
 a person much distinguished by his chemical discoveries, his attainments in 
 science and literature, and his general talents for society. Although he had 
 never himself travelled in the East, Mr. Tennant had a singular fondness for 
 Oriental literature, and was remarkably conversant in the works of the best 
 Eastern travellers. This induced him to pay some attention to Mr. Browne, 
 whom he accidentally met in society, probably at Sir Joseph Banks's ; and 
 an acquaintance, thus casually formed, was soon ripened into a sincere and 
 solid friendship. 
 
 Some memorial of the intercourse between these two remarkable men has 
 been preserved in an unpublished account of the Life of Mr. Tennant, which 
 was circulated a few years ago among his friends ; and the following extract 
 from that work may be inserted with great propriety in this memoir, as being 
 not uninteresting in itself, and throwing a new light upon Mr. Browne's 
 habits and manners. 
 
 " With the tastes and feelings resulting from his fondness for the East, it 
 may easily be conceived that Mr. Tennant had a peculiar gratification in the 
 society of Mr. Browne. He found in that distinguished traveller, not only 
 an intimate acquaintance with those countries which so much interested his 
 curiosity, but a considerable fund of learning and information, united with 
 great modesty and simplicity, and much kindness of disposition. By 
 strangers, however, Mr. Browne's character was apt to be misunderstood. 
 Whether from natural temperament, or from habits acquired in the East, he
 
 174 
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 was unusually grave and silent, and his manners in general society were 
 extremely cold and repulsive. Even in company with Mr. Tennant, to 
 whom he became sincerely attached, he would often remain for some time 
 gloomy and thoughtful. But after indulging himself for a few minutes with 
 his pipe, his eye brightened, his countenance became animated, and he de- 
 scribed in a lively and picturesque manner the interesting scenes in which he 
 had been engaged, and to which he again looked forward. Of the impression 
 left on Mr. Tennant's mind by these interviews, some idea may be formed 
 from the following passage of a letter written by him to an intimate friend 
 soon after he had received the account of Mr. BroMiie's death. ' T recall,' 
 he says, • with a melancholy pleasure, the A'nrfes Arabiccc which I have often 
 passed with him at the Adelphi, where I used to go whenever I found myself 
 gloomy or solitary ; and so agreeable to me were these soothing, romantic, 
 evening conversations, that after ringing his bell, I used to wait with great 
 anxiety, fearful that he might not be at home.' " * 
 
 The habits of Mr. Browne's life during the intei^vals of his journies, and 
 wliile he thus resided in London, were extremely sedentary. He seldom, 
 indeed, quitted home, except for short and occasional visits to friends in the 
 country; for he took no delight in travelling in England. The wild and 
 romantic scenes to which he had been accustomed had taken possession of his 
 imagination ; and created in him a certain distaste for that monotony and 
 tameness, which industr}\ wealth and improved agriculture, are apt to give 
 to the face of a country. He was prevailed upon, however, by Mr. Tennant, 
 in the summer of 1805 or 1806, to make a tour in Ireland ; and he accom- 
 panied his friend through a great part of that country, on horseback, equipped 
 with pistols and a long Turkish cloak, as he had been accustomed to travel in 
 the East. He had anticipated little pleasure from this journey ; but he found 
 it very interesting. His curiosity was excited by many striking and cha- 
 racteristic features in the country and its inhabitants ; the results, as he justly 
 inferred, of particular circumstances in the government, and of an inferior 
 state of civilization. He felt himself, he said, upon foreign ground, when 
 he observed, in travelling through the southern provinces, the wild aspect 
 of a great part of the country, the general want of enclosures, the vast 
 extent of fertile and ill-cultivated land, and, above all, the idleness, the 
 
 Account of the late Smithson Tennant, Esq. 1815. p. 30.
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 175 
 
 poverty, and the thoughtless and turbulent gaiety of the vast, overflomng 
 population. * 
 
 Mr. Browne likewise expressed himself with great pleasure, and in stronger 
 terms than he was accustomed to use on such subjects, as to the picturesque 
 merit of some particular places which he had seen in his Irish journey ; 
 and especially as to the romantic and very peculiar beauties of the Lakes 
 of Killarney. 
 
 After several years had been thus passed by Mr. Browne, his ruling 
 passion returned ; his present course of life became insipid and irksome, and 
 he began to meditate new expeditions. His imagination naturally recurred 
 to some of those adventurous schemes which he had formed in early life ; 
 and he seems once to have had thoughts of applying, at this period, to the 
 Directors of the East-India Company for permission to inivel into Thibet. 
 But after due consideration of this and other projects, he fixed at length 
 upon the Tartar city of Samarcand and the central region of Asia around 
 it, as the objects towards which his attention should now be directed. 
 
 Having made the necessary arrangements in this country for a long 
 absence, he took his departure from England in the summer of 1812, and 
 proceeded, in the first place, to Constantinople ; from whence, at the sug- 
 gestion of Mr. Tennant, he made a diligent, but fruitless, search for the 
 meteoric stone, which is mentioned by the Parian Chronicle and the Natural 
 History of PUny to have fallen at Egos-potamos in the ancient Thrace, t From 
 Constantinople he went, about the close of the year, to Smyrna, where he had 
 determined to pass the winter, t He established himself for some time in that 
 
 * Mr. Browne mentioned these observations respecting Ireland to the writer of this 
 memoir, in conversation, a very short time before lie left England iu 1812. 
 
 f Plinii Nat. Hjst. lib. ii. cap. 58. 
 
 :): Before Mr. Browne left England he received from his friend Mr. Tennant a paper 
 containing the heads of some subjects of enquiry to which he wished to direct Mr. B.'s 
 attention. It is a hasty and imperfect memorandum, and the topics arc sufficiently obvious; 
 but as the suggestions are very judicious, and contain much information in a small compass, 
 respecting what should be considered a:; the principal duty of a traveller, it may be deemed 
 worthy of insertion. 
 
 " Heads
 
 l>jQ BIOGRAPHICAL xMEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 city, and was fortunate enough to become intimately acquainted with the 
 Rev. Mr. Renouard, then Chaplain of the Factory, a man of learning, in- 
 telligence, and congenial studies, in whose society he passed many happy 
 hours, and with whom he contracted a sincere and cordial friendship. 
 
 He left Smyrna in the Spring of 1813, and proceeding in a north-easterly 
 direction through Asia Minor and Armenia, made a short stay at Erzerum, 
 the capital city of that province, and arrived on the 1st of June at Tebriz on 
 the frontiers of Persia. No account of this long and curious journey, through 
 a country highly interesting, but at present very imperfectly known, has 
 been found among the few papers of Mr. Browne which have been recovered 
 since hrs death ; but some particulars may be collected from the following 
 extracts of one of his letters to Mr. Tennant. 
 
 Tabriz, July 16. 1813. 
 
 " Aware of the little interest which will attach to my own materials, I have 
 
 prepared a document which I obtained at Smyrna, and which w411 enable you 
 
 to form some idea of prices at that place. You may judge of the difficulty 
 
 of procuring any exact information, when I tell you that it took me three 
 
 " Heads of Enquiry. 
 
 " Prices of articles : to ascertain, as far as possible, the value of the coin by the weight 
 of the precious metal it contains. 
 
 " With respect to ancient prices, to learn the rate of the depreciation of money. 
 
 " Price of labour ; both rude and skilful, in country and in town. 
 
 " Rent of land ; to be careful in ascertaining the measure, and to recollect that an 
 English acre contains 4S40 square yards. 
 
 " Rate of interest for money, and how often payable, whether at the end of one or two 
 months, &c. 
 
 ♦' Tenure and state of property in land and houses. 
 
 " Details of the modes of living and kinds of food, in the country and in towns. 
 
 " Extortion, what kinds practised upon different orders of persons; what degree of 
 security of property. 
 
 " Moisture of the air to be ascertained by swinging the thermometer ; first to get the 
 temperature quickly, then again with a wet paper on the bulb ; observing the degree each 
 time. 
 
 " Pearl-fishery in Persia; numbers employed; season; diving, how long under water; 
 colour of the pearls; price by weighing or gauging; amount of annual produce. 
 
 " Nitre, whether made in Persia, and how ; and to enquire whether ashes arc added to 
 the impure nitrous solution," &c. &c.
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 177 
 
 months to obtain this ; and that it was completed only the day before my 
 departure, f * * * * 
 
 f For the information of the reader, a copy of the document here alluded to is inserted. 
 It was procured by Mr. B. at the desire of Mr. Tennant, who to his other acquirements 
 added a considerable knowledge of political economy. He had found reason to believe 
 that the rise of prices, so remarkable in Europe during the last fifty years, was universal 
 throughout the world ; and that it was probably occasioned by a general and permanent 
 cause, namely, a gradual and continued increase in the quantity of the precious metals ; the 
 fact of such an increase appearing very probable, as he thought, from other circumstances. 
 
 " Prices of Commodities at Smyrna in the years 1780, 1790, 1800, and 181:?. 
 
 1780. 
 
 Beef, per oke, 6 paras 
 
 Mutton, per oke, 8 paras 
 
 Butter, per oke, 36 to 40 paras 
 
 Olive-oil, per oke, 12 paras 
 
 Wheat of Asia Minor, per kilot, 60 paras 
 
 Fine flour, per oke, 4 paras 
 
 Ordinary flour, per oke, 2j paras 
 
 Black grapes for making wine, per 
 
 quintal, H to 1 J piastres 
 Red wine, per oke, 3 paras 
 Six eggs, 1 para - - . 
 
 A good fowl, 14 to 15 paras 
 Chickens, 4 to 5 paras each 
 Smoked tongues from Adrianople, 5 for 
 
 a piastre - . - . 
 
 Fresh fruit : grapes, 2 paras, figs, 4 paras, 
 
 apricots, 6 paras per oke 
 Herbs worth 2 paras were sufficient for 
 
 a soup for 5 or 6 persons 
 A salad which cost 1 para, sufiiced for 6 
 
 persons . . - - - 
 Egyptian rice, 2 piastres the kilot of 10 
 
 okes . - - - . 
 
 Fish, from the smallest to the largest, 8 
 
 to 14 paras per oke 
 Hire of a boat for 2 Iiours, 15 to 20 paras 
 A good horse for 2 or 3 hours, 30 to 40 
 
 paras ------ 
 
 A labourer, per day, 20 paras 
 
 Rent of a fire-proof warehouse 120 to 
 
 150 piastres per annum 
 A dwelling on the Marina, 4 to 500 
 
 piastres per annum - . . 
 A female servant, 20 to SO piastres per 
 
 annum - - - - - 
 A nurse, per month, 4 piastres 
 A cook, per annum, 70 to 80 piastres 
 Any other domestic, 40 to 50 piastres 
 
 1790. 
 
 - 
 
 16 paras. 
 
 18 paras. 
 
 66 to 70 paras. 
 
 16 to 18 paras. 
 
 3i to 4 piastres, 
 
 6 to 8 paras. 
 
 5 paras. 
 
 3 to 3i piastres. 
 
 6 to 8 paras. 
 
 2 for a para. 
 25 paras. 
 
 11 to 12 pa. each. 
 
 3 for a piastre. 
 4, 8, 12 paras. 
 
 4 to 5 paras. 
 4 paras. 
 
 ii to 5 piastres. 
 
 18 to 36 paras. 
 20 to 40 paras. 
 
 50 to 60 paras. 
 40 to 50 paras. 
 
 200 to 250 piast. 
 
 1000 to 1500 pi. 
 
 50 to 60 piastres. 
 8 to 10 piastres. 
 150 piastres. 
 100 piastres. 
 
 1800. 
 
 1812. 
 
 26 to 28 paras. 
 
 34 paras. 
 2 piastres. 
 
 36 to 44 paras. 
 54 to 6 piastres. 
 18 paras. 
 16 paras. 
 
 4; to 4^ piastres. 
 14 paras. 
 1 para each. 
 
 35 to 40 paras. 
 25 to 30 pa. each. 
 
 1 piastre each. 
 
 6, 12, 15 paras. 
 
 8 to 10 paras. 
 
 Si 
 
 5 to 6 paras. 
 
 5i to 54 piastres. 
 
 24 to 50 paras. 
 40 to 60 paras. 
 
 60 to 80 paras. 
 50 to 60 paras. 
 
 350 to 400 piast. 
 
 2000 piastres. 
 
 100 piastres. 
 15 to 16 piastres. 
 250 to 300 piast, 
 150 piastres. 
 
 36, 40, 44 paras. 
 
 42 paras. 
 
 4t to 4i piastres. 
 
 aft nara^ 
 
 60 
 Ui 
 24 
 23 
 
 paras, 
 to 15 piast. 
 
 to 25 paras, 
 paras. 
 
 5i to 6 piastres. 
 15 to 16 paras. 
 3 to5 paras each. 
 70 to 80 paras. 
 40 to 50 pa. each. 
 
 60to70pa. each, 
 
 8, 16, 20 paras. 
 
 10 to 12 paras. 
 
 7 to 8 paras. 
 
 7t piastres. 
 
 50 to 80 paras. 
 2 to 2^ piastres. 
 
 2+ to 3 piastres. 
 70 to 80 paras. 
 
 500 to 800 piast. 
 
 2500 to 3000 pias. 
 
 120 to 150 piast. 
 18 to 20 piastres. 
 350 to 400 piast. 
 200 piastres. 
 
 VOL. U. 
 
 A A 
 
 N.B. For
 
 j^g BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 «' 1 left Smyrna on the l6th of March. From that moment to the present 
 I have been employed in traversing Asia Minor, the borders of Armenia and 
 Kiurdistan, and I arrived here on the 1st of June. My progress has not 
 been attended with more than the usual impediments ; and fortunately I 
 have preserved a tolerable share of health. The immersion of ni)^ papers in 
 crossing a river was the worst accident I met with, and has caused mc some 
 inconvenience. The Spring, in most places through which I passed, was more 
 backward than it generally is in England at the same period of the year. * * * 
 
 " My eyes have been very much opened in this journey to the volcanic 
 nature of certain parts of Asia Minor and its confines. At Kolah, near the 
 Hermus, only three days from Smyrna, may be seen an unquestionable scite 
 of volcanic eruption. It is one of the most recent, though still probably of 
 a very remote period. Carabignar is another ; but this probably may have 
 been noticed by others. Kolah, I imagine, has not hitherto been observed. 
 I shall have something to say of Afiiim Karahissar. The neighbourhood of 
 Konie, and still more of Kaisairie, is overspread with fragments of lava, some 
 of it almost in the state of scoria. The quantity of lava in the district of 
 Erzemm is immense, and the whole country about Mount Ararat is volcanic. 
 The eruptions in those places appear to be of the highest antiquity. 
 
 " I hope to send you some water of the lake Urmia, and some fossil salt 
 which may not have been examined ; but the difficulty of conveyance across 
 so wide a part of the continent is very discouraguig. The only conveyance 
 which may afford a prospect of their safe arrival will be, when the Am- 
 bassador's baggage is sent down to the Persian Gulf; which I suppose will 
 be next year. 
 
 " Water boils at Erzemm at 200° and 200^°* ; and at Tabriz spirits of 
 wine begin to boil at 164°, and water at 204°. The thermometer, when 
 moistened, at Tabriz sinks 23° ; viz. from 81° to 58°. 
 
 N. B. For properly understanding the above Table, it is necessary to apprize the 
 reader of a circumstance not mentioned by Mr. Browne ; viz. that the vahie of the Turkish 
 piastre fluctuated at the periods specified in the Table ; the piastre having been equal to 
 Is. 3(1. sterhng in 1800, and equal only to lid. in 1811.'. What was its value in 1790 the 
 writer has not been able to ascertain; probably it was somewhat higher than in 1800. 
 It is to be remarked that the piastre consists always of 40 paras. 
 
 * These observations of the temperature of boiling water were suggested to Mr. Browne 
 by the correspondent whom he here addresses, as a ready and convenient mode of calcu- 
 lating elevations. From the above statement, the height of Erzcrum above the level of the 
 sea, may be estimated at about 7000 feet, and that of Tabriz at about 4500 feet.
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BRO\\"NE. l>jg 
 
 " If you see Sir James Mackintosli, have the goodness to inform Mm that 
 the Chalfah and principal clergy of the monastery called Aitalmiazin, near 
 Erivan, desire to ofter him their most respectful salutations. They remember 
 with gratitude the numerous benefits which their chuich and nation have 
 derived from his integrity as a judge, and his benevolence as a man, during 
 his residence in India ; and they implore him to continue his protection to 
 them in an affair now agitating, which menaces their interests in that country 
 with considerable danger. The fact is, that one of their principal dignitaries 
 has embezzled a large portion of their property, which they entertain hopes 
 of recovering by legal process. * 
 
 " I am here only till I can make the necessary preparations for proceeding 
 further ; and I have hitherto seen no occasion to alter or to despair of the 
 execution of my plan. The Ambassador is at present at Hamidan ; but I 
 am in hopes that he will be here in a few days, as it is very desirable that I 
 should see him. Major D'Arcy, an intelligent and active officer, who is his 
 agent here, has received me with great politeness and hospitahty. I shall 
 soon be as much at liome in Persia as in Turkey ; and I look forward with 
 great hope to the future. * • * * 
 
 " This had been written for some days, but no means of forwarding it 
 occurred. Sir Gore Ouseley is now here ; and I flatter myself with being 
 able to advance shortly. The accounts I have recently received of the state 
 of Tartary are very discouraging ; but I am not gi\en to jdeld or to despond. 
 I hope to make my next letter more interesting. Adieu ! All well to the 
 24th of July." 
 
 ^^'^riting upon some of the same subjects to another fiiend, he expresses 
 himself thus : — "In endeavouring to reach my destination, it will probably 
 be necessary to take a circuitous route, first to Meshed, and then to Herat j 
 but if I can contrive to get into Tartary before the inclemencies of winter 
 commence I shall deem myself fortunate. I do not fear the snows of 
 Bactriana and Sogdiana, when stationary ; but reposing in the open field, I 
 should not find them acceptable. 
 
 " I was gratified with much romantic and beautiful country in passing the 
 confines ; and indeed most of the route from Arzenim hither is sufficiently 
 
 * This probably alludes to some appeal from the Courts of India then depending in 
 England. 
 
 A A 2
 
 180 
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 interesting. It is all classic ground ; and almost every spot is connected 
 with historical records. Volcanic matter is so widely diflfused, that I am dis- 
 posed to acquit Sestini of exaggeration in his route to Diarbekir. Trap and 
 pudding-stone and black granite prevail in this neighbourhood. Iron-ore also 
 is common in various places : probably coal might be found. Nearer Turkey, 
 besides the calcareous and schistose and porphyritic rocks which occur every 
 where, I noticed volcanic glass and pumice. There is a considerable \ariety 
 of plants near that confine ; but my catalogue must be imperfect, for Turkish 
 travelling is unfavourable to botanical research. 
 
 " It seems to me that the sublime x\rarat himself must owe a part, at 
 least, of his grandeur to subterraneous fires. I was well inclined to attempt 
 reaching his suminit, discrediting the fables related of failures in that 
 attempt. It would no doubt be difficult ; as the trackless ascent of a lofty 
 and snow-capped mountain always is. But why should it be more so than 
 that of Mount Perdu or some of the Andes, which have been visited ? One 
 side at least is not very steep, but what ravines there may be I know not. The 
 real difliculty, if I am not misinformed, consists in the lawless tribes from 
 both confines, who inhabit the lower and middle parts of it. No guide is to 
 be had ; and if any know the way, they would not encounter the risk of being 
 stopped by these mountaineers. The robbers, it seems to me, must be the 
 guides, if any one is to attempt this ascent, which would surely be desirable. 
 
 " There is a British officer commanding horse-artillery at Erivan ; four 
 Serjeants with the men they have drilled at Nakjewan ; and Major D'Arcy 
 has the chief command here (at Tabriz), having with him an officer from 
 India. The hospitality and kindness of Major D'Arcy have been a great re- 
 source to me. He is an accomplished draftsman, and has a large collection of 
 interesting views, taken in different parts of the Persian Empire. It is to be 
 hoped that our mission will promote literary and scientific enquiry, and pro- 
 cure us a complete survey of the country." 
 
 Mr. Browne continued several weeks with Major D'Arcy at Tabriz, in ex- 
 pectation of Sir Gore Ouseley, who at length arrived. He experienced from 
 both those gentlemen tlie most marked and friendly attention ; and received 
 every assistance towards the ])rosccution of his journey from the latter which 
 the influence of his public situation could afibrd. It is gratifying to record 
 these proofs of esteem and attachment, which accompanied Mr. Browne 
 through every part of the present journey. His name was well known, and
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. Jg^ 
 
 the object of his expedition had greatly interested his fellow-countrymen in 
 the East. They received him every where with the greatest kindness; and 
 the partiality, which it was natural for them to feel in favour of such a 
 traveller, was justified and confirmed by tlieir experience of his character and 
 manners. 
 
 Towards the end of the Summer of 1813, having completed the pre- 
 parations for liis journey, he at length took liis departure from Tabriz, accom- 
 panied by two servants, for Teheran, the present capital of Persia ; intending 
 to proceed from thence into Tartary. He passed on the second day through 
 a part of the Persian army which was encamped at the distance of 3(3 miles 
 from Tabriz. What subsequently happened can only be known from the 
 testimony of those who accompanied him. After some days, both the ser- 
 vants returned with an account that, after advancing to a place near the river 
 Kizil Ozan, about I'^O miles from Tabriz, the party had been attacked by 
 bantlitti ; and that Mr. Browne had been dragged a short distance from the 
 road, where he was plundered and murdered, but tliat they were suifered to 
 escape. They brought back with them a double-barrelled gun and a few 
 other eifects, known to have been in Mr. Browne's possession. At the in- 
 stance of Sir Gore Ouseley, soldiers were immediately dispatched to the spot 
 described ; with orders to bruig back Mr. Browne's remains, and to make a 
 strict search for the murderers. On their return, they reported to the govern- 
 ment that they had failed in both these objects ; but that they had fully 
 ascertained the fact of Mr. Browne's death, and had found some portions of 
 liis clothes, which, having been made at Constantinople, were very distin- 
 guishable from those generally worn in Persia. They added, that they had 
 been unable to discover any traces or remains of the body, which was believed 
 to have been abandoned to beasts of prey. Notwithstanding this report, the 
 search for his remains appears to have been afterwards continued ; and some 
 bones, said to be those of Mr. Browne, were brought to Tabriz ; which, having 
 been deposited in a cedar chest, were interred, with due respect, in the 
 neighbourhood of the town. The spot was happily chosen near the grave 
 of Thevenot, the celebrated French traveller, who died in this part of Persia 
 about a century and half before. * 
 
 * The traveller here alluded to is " the accurate Thevenot," nieiilioned by Mr. Gibbon 
 (Hist, voi.iii. p. 17. Svo.), who lias been sometimes confounded with the well-known com- 
 piler and publisher of Travels of the same name. He is said to have introduced the use 
 of coffee in France. He died in Persia in lt>67.
 
 jg2 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 Every exertion was made by the English Ambassador to ascertain the 
 circumstances of this melancholy transaction, but wholly without effect. 
 Considerable doubts were entertained with regard to the fidelity of the 
 servants ; and some suspicion appears to have fallen on the Persian govern- 
 ment. It is certain that Mr. Browne's appearance at Tabriz hail excited 
 great attention ; and that enquiries had been made by persons in authority, 
 respecting his objects and destination ; and, in particular, whether he was a 
 military man or engineer. The Persians also, at this time, were at war with 
 the Turcomans, and would naturally view with great jealousy the commence- 
 ment of any European, and especially any English, intercourse with nations 
 east of the Caspian. But these circumstances aie too slight to give any 
 colour to so serious a charge as the above suspicion implies ; nor can any 
 particular hypothesis be required to account for the commission of an act of 
 outrage and cruelty by the lawless tribes who inhabit the Persian frontiers. 
 Mr. B.'s preparations for his journey at Tabriz were very public ; he was re- 
 ported to be possessed of considerable property; and the Turkish dress 
 which he wore, rendered him particularly obnoxious to the bigotry and 
 violence of the Persians. 
 
 It remains only to give a short view of Mr. Browne's character, the leading 
 parts of which have been already anticipated in the events and transactions 
 of his life. 
 
 In his person he was thin and rather above the middle size, of a dark com- 
 plexion, and a grave and pensive cast of countenance. His manners towards 
 strangers were resened, cold, and Oriental ; but he could occasionally relax 
 from this gravity, and his society and conversation had great charms for the 
 few friends with whom he would thus unbend himself. 
 
 His moral character was deser\ing of every praise. He was friendly and 
 sincere, distinguished for the steadiness of his attachments, and capable of 
 acts of great kindness. Though far from being affluent, he was liberal and 
 generous in no common degree. He was perfectly disinterested, and had 
 high principles of honour ; and (what is very important, with reference to his 
 character as a traveller and geographical discoverer) was a man of exact and 
 scrupulous veracity. 
 
 He had no brilliancy or quickness of parts ; but he was a great lover of 
 labour, and cultivated his favoiu-ite studies with intense and unremitting
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. j 33 
 
 assiduity. He was a man of erudition, and may be ranked among the learned 
 Orientalists of modern times. But that which principally distinguished him, 
 and in which he was certainly unrivalled, was a familiar and intimate ac- 
 quaintance with the manners and customs of Eastern nations, and the minute 
 details of their domestic life, extending even to theii" prayers and ablutions. 
 It was this knowledge, the result of long and patient observation, which 
 enabled him to personate the Oriental character with an exactness and pro- 
 priety which has rarely, perhaps, been equalled. 
 
 Although a good classical scholar and an admirer of the best writers, he 
 was certainly deficient in taste ; a circumstance, which has detracted from 
 his literary character, and been injurious to his general reputation. He was 
 betrayed into perpetual faults as a writer by a constant effort to shine, and 
 by an ambition of ornament, very inconsistent with his general character. 
 The affectation of his style formed a singular contrast to the unassuming 
 simplicity of his manners and conversation. * 
 
 His sincere and excessi^■e admiration of Oriental life (which was another of 
 his peculiarities) admits of an easier explanation. It arose partly from long 
 habits of residence in the East, and partly from the natural gravity, tran- 
 quillity and repose of his character and disposition. That a feeling of this 
 description should influence his habits and give a peculiar colouring to his 
 system of life was reasonable and naturally to be expected. But it had a 
 considerable effect on his understanding, and must be said to have warped 
 liis judgment ; since it produced the extraordinary and paradoxical Disser- 
 tation t, at the end of his volume of Travels, in which, after an elaborate 
 comparison between the Eastern and European nations, with respect to 
 wisdom, morality and happiness, he gives his decided preference to the 
 former ! 
 
 The leading principle of his character was a lofly ambition, a desire of 
 signalizing himself by some memorable achievement. On opening liis will, 
 which was made a few days before he left England, a paper in his hand- 
 writing was found enclosed, containing a remarkable passage from one of 
 
 • It was generally believed at the time of the publication of Mr. Browne's Travels that 
 he had been materially assisted in the composition of the work by a literary friend of very 
 eccentric taste, to whom the peculiarities of the style were attributed. But it appears 
 from Mr. B.'s papers that the report was without foundation. 
 
 t Travels in Africa, p. 425.
 
 jg^ BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF MR. BROWNE. 
 
 Pindar's odes, highly expressive of that generous ambition and contempt of 
 dan"-er and death, which are the true inspiring piinciples of great enter- 
 prizes. Probably his most intimate friends had not been fully aware, before 
 the appearance of this paper, of the real force of his character, and of those 
 powerful and deep feeUngs, which the habitual reserve and coldness of his 
 manners effectually concealed from observation. * 
 
 * The following is the passage alluded to : — 
 
 'O fteyaj 8s xivSu- 
 vo: avaXxiv « ipaj- 
 
 Ta \oiiJ.SaV£i. ©aveiv 8' oltriv avayxo, 
 Ti XE T(f aviuviiiJi.ov yripa; Iv (Txotcu 
 
 ¥.a.\SiV afifj-opoc ; aXX' e/io) jasv iroa-) 
 
 "ASXoj y un-oxsi'o-£Tai. Pindari Olymp. Carm. 1 . v. 129. 
 
 In the paths of dangerous fame 
 
 Trembling cowards never tread ; 
 Yet since all of mortal frame 
 
 Must be number'd with the dead, 
 Who in dark inglorious shade 
 
 Would his useless life consume 
 And with deedless years decay'd 
 
 Sink unhonour'd to the tomb? 
 I that shameful lot disdain, 
 
 I this doubtful list will prove. — Wesfs Translation of Pindar.
 
 185 
 
 JOURNEY THROUGH SOME PROVINCES OF ASIA MINOR, 
 
 IN THE YEAR 1800. 
 
 [COMMUNICATED BT LIEUT. COL. LEAKE.] 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Difficulties expa-ienced by the Traveller in exploring Asia Minor. — Little Knowledge 
 hitherto obtained of the Interior. — Object of the following Journal. — Survey of Part of 
 the Coast by Captain Beaufort. — 'Suture of the Information furnished by preceding 
 Travellers. — Ancient Authorities respecting the Geography of Asia Minor. — Assistance 
 to be derived from an Examinatioii of the actual Remains of Antiquity. — Departure from 
 Constantinople. — Kartal. — Ghchse. — Temperature (f the Climate. — Kizderwent. — 
 Situation of the Lo-Jier Class of the Christian Population in Asia Minor. — Lake 
 Ascanius. — Niccea. — Site of ancient Towns betwcai Consta?itinople and Niccea, — Ruins 
 of this City. 
 
 Among the countries where the traveller, in tracing vestiges of 
 Grecian art and civilisation amidst modern barbarism and desolation, 
 illustrates history, and makes important additions to the science of 
 geography, there is none so difficult to explore as Asia Minor. In 
 European Turkey, the inhospitality of the Mahometan system is some- 
 what tempered by its proximity to civilised Europe, and its conscious 
 weakness, and the great excess of the Christian population over the 
 Turkish ; but in Asia Minor, the Christian must always feel that he 
 is merely tolerated ; the Turks are sensible that the country is still 
 their own, and that they are a step further removed from those 
 Christian nations whose increasing power keeps pace with the decline 
 of their own race, obliging them to look forward to their expulsion 
 
 VOL. II. B B
 
 185 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 from those regions which they usurped from the Greeks when the 
 Christian states were comparatively feeble, as to an event that must 
 some day be fulfilled ; while in the eyes of civilised J'urope it is 
 one of the most wonderful political phaenomena of the present day, 
 that countries so favoured by nature are still suffered to remain in 
 their hands. 
 
 In Asia Minor among the numerous impediments to a traveller's 
 success must be chiefly reckoned the deserted state of the country, 
 which often puts the common necessaries and conveniences of travel- 
 ling out of his reach ; the continual disputes and wars among the 
 persons in power ; the precarious authority of the government of 
 Constantinople, which rendering its protection ineffectual, makes the 
 traveller's success depend upon the personal character of the governor 
 of each district ; and the ignorance and suspicious temper of the 
 Turks, who have no idea of scientific travelling ; who cannot imagine; 
 any other motive for our visits to that country than a preparation for 
 hostile invasion, or a search after treasui'es among the ruins of anti- 
 quity, and whose suspicions of this nature are of course most strong 
 in the provinces which, like Asia Minor, are the least frequented by 
 us. If the traveller's prudence or good fortune protect him from 
 all these sources of danger, as well as from plague, banditti, and other 
 perils incidental to a semibarbarous state of society, he has still to 
 dread the loss of health from the combined effects of climate, fatigue, 
 and privation, a misfortune which seldom fails to check his career 
 before he has completed his projected tour. 
 
 Asia Minor is still in that state in whicli a disguised dress, 
 an assumption of the medical character, great patience and perse- 
 ■verance, the sacrifice of all Euvopean comforts, and the concealment 
 of pecuniary means, are necessary to enable the traveller thoroughly 
 to investigate the country, when otherwise qualified for the task by 
 literary and scientific attainments, and by an intimate knowledge of 
 the language and manners of the people. Had Browne or Burckhardt 
 been spared to science, all these requisites might, perhaps, have been 
 applied to the examination of Asia Minor ; at present, of the countries
 
 ASIA MINOR. 187 
 
 which antiquity has rendered interesting, it is that in which there re- 
 mains the finest field for the exertion of such talents. 
 
 Among modern travellers two only have yet traversed this country 
 in different directions for exploratory purposes : Paul Lucas in the 
 years 1705 and 1706, and Captain JNIacdonald Kinneir in the years 
 1813 and 1814. The rest have merely followed a single route in 
 passing through it ; and even the travels of the two persons just 
 named amount only to a description of three or four routes instead 
 of one ; the state of the provinces and mode of travelling having 
 rendered it impossible to make any of those excursions from the main 
 road, without which the geography of an unknown country cannot 
 possibly be ascertained. It even appears from the journal of JMr. Mac- 
 donald Kinneir that the difficulties of travelling in Asia Minor have 
 rather increased than diminished. The principality of Tchappan- 
 Oglu, which offered some security, has been broken up by his death ; 
 and there remain only a few dispersed chieftains, most of them in a 
 state of doubtful allegiance to the Porte, in whose districts, by good 
 management and previous preparation, the traveller might, perhaps, 
 be allowed to explore the country in safety. In no other parts can 
 he, unless with all the requisites above stated, and a great sacrifice of 
 time, hope to effect more than a rapid passage along the principal 
 roads, take a transient view of some of the remains of antiquity, and 
 note the distances of places, the general bearings of the route, and 
 the relative situations of a few hills or other remarkable objects on 
 either side of it. 
 
 Under such circumstances, it is obvious that the geography of the 
 interior of Asia j\linor can only be improved by collecting together the 
 journals of different travellers, and by endeavouring to make a gradual 
 approximation to a detailed map of the 'country, by combining to- 
 gether the information thus obtained. It is with a view of con- 
 tributing to this object, that the following journal of a route through 
 the centre of Asia Minor, from Constantinople to the coast of Cilicia, 
 is submitted to the public. The line is one of the most important 
 in the province ; and the latitude and longitude of its southern ex- 
 
 B B 2
 
 Igg ASIA MINOR. 
 
 tremity* having been lately ascertained by Captain Beaufort, it may 
 now be laid down on the map with certainty. This, and two or three 
 other lines t, of which the extremities are equally certain, furnish, 
 together with a few observations of latitude in the interior of the 
 Peninsula J, a good foundation for the skeleton of a map, where, 
 however deficient we may be in filling iip the outline, many points, 
 at least, and the direction of the principal ridges of the mountains, 
 may be fixed in a satisfactory manner. In our further progress, we 
 shall be greatly assisted by the knowledge of the coasts already ob- 
 tained ; for it is observable that this part of the geography of Asia 
 Minor is in a much more advanced state than that of the § interior. 
 By several partial surveys, in the vicinity of Smyrna and Constan- 
 tinople ; by the observations of Beauchamp, in the Black Sea ; but, 
 above all, by the surveys made by Captain Beaufort, of the southern 
 and part of the western coast, in the years 1811 and 1812, it may now 
 be said that one half of the coast is accurately known in detail, and 
 that of the other parts, no point of importance is much in error ; so 
 that future routes across the Peninsula, between two points of the 
 coast, may be laid down with great accuracy, provided the traveller is 
 attentive in noting his bearings, rates of travelling, and distances in 
 time. It should be observed, that routes in a north and south, or 
 north-east and south-west direction, are now become much the most 
 
 * The position of its northern extremity, Constantinople, is i<nown by a variety of earlier 
 observations. 
 
 f The most important of these are from Satalia to Shugluit, by General Koehier; from 
 Satalia to Kassaba, near Smyrna, by M. Coranccy ; another from Smyrna to Satalia, 
 throngh Allah-Shehr and Burdur, by Paul Lucas: the two last have the advantage of 
 crossing the routes of Chandler and others in the valley of the Maeander. 
 
 % The places are, Adana, Tarsus, Erkle, Konia, Afiom Karahissar, Kutaya, Taushanli, 
 Brusa, Kesaria, Uskat, Kastamuni. The observations were made by Niebuhr, Browne, 
 and by Messrs. M. Kinneir and Chavasse. 
 
 § Of the interior, on the contrary, (after having laid down ail the published routes, and 
 some others in manuscript, and after having rejected all the information for which there is 
 not good authority,) I find that five-sixths of Asia Minor are still a blank. The skeleton, 
 or essay, of a map, here alluded to, will shortly be published by Mr. Arrowsmith.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 189 
 
 valuable : the frequent passage of travellers from Europe to India, or 
 from Constantinople and Smyrna to Persia and Syria, or in the oppo- 
 site direction, having multiplied the longitudinal routes, while we 
 possess very iew in the transverse direction. 
 
 It may possibly assist the labours of the geographer, if I briefly 
 subjoin the several authorities upon which, in addition to those al- 
 ready mentioned, all our knowledge of the geography of Asia ]\linor 
 rests. The elder travellers may be confined to Tavernier, Tournefort, 
 Paul Lucas, Otter, and Pococke ; for Bertrandon de la Brocquiere, 
 and Mottraye, Le Bruyn, and Griffiths and Capper *, afford no geo- 
 graphical matter that is not contained in the others. 
 
 Tavernier informs us, in his introduction, that he began his travels 
 by a visit to England, in the reign of James the First : he died in 
 1685. Although he crossed Asia Minor several times, in the way to 
 Persia, where his commercial speculations carried him, he affords no 
 geographical matter relating to the central parts of the Asiatic Pen- 
 insula, with the single exception of the caravan road from Smyrna to 
 Tokat, which passed by Kassaba, Allahshehr, Afiom Karahissar, Bul- 
 wudun, and across the Salt country to the Kizil-Ermak, which he 
 passed at Kesre Kiupvi. Though he appears to have travelled the 
 road three times, at least, he has left scarcely any other remarks upon 
 it, than the number of hours between the halting places, of which he 
 has seldom even given us the names. 
 
 Tournefort traversed Asia Minor only in one direction, from Erz- 
 rum to Angura, by Tokat, and thence passing a little to the north of 
 Eski Shehr, to Brusa. 
 
 Paul Lucas was sent out in the year 1704, by the same minister of 
 Louis XIV. who employed Tournefort in a similar tour in the Archi- 
 pelago, the Black Sea, and Armenia. But, unfortunately for our 
 
 * It should be mentioned that Capper certainly visited the valley of DoganJu, which the 
 reader will find described in the following pages ; but his drawing, and account of it, are 
 very incomplete.
 
 190 
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 geographical knowledge of Asia Minor, Lucas's qualifications were 
 very inferior to those of his contemporary ; nor does he appear to 
 have been very well adapted, by previous study, even for those 
 branches of investigation to which his attention was particularly di- 
 rected by his employers, namely, the collecting of coins and inscrip- 
 tions. 
 
 By assuming the medical character, he secured a good reception at 
 several of the provincial towns, and protection from the governors, as 
 far as their authority extended ; but the banditti which at this period 
 infested every part of the country obliged him always to travel in 
 haste, and often in the night ; and he was not qualified to derive as 
 much advantage from journies made under such circumstances as a 
 more experienced and more enlightened traveller might have done. 
 He was generally careful in noting the time employed in each stage ; 
 but the names of places are often disfigured by his careless mode of 
 writing. His ignorance and credulity made him delight in repeating 
 the absurd tales which the traveller so often hears in these half- 
 civilised countries ; at the same time that he omits the insertion of 
 many useful observations which he cannot have failed to make. In 
 some instances he has repeated the fabulous accounts of the natives 
 as if he had himself witnessed them, and has thus rendered himself 
 liable to the suspicion of having wilfully imposed upon his readers. 
 There can be no doubt, however, that his itinerary, abstracted from his 
 nan-ative, is as correct as he was capable of making it. The geogra^ 
 phical results, when connected and compared with those of other 
 travellers, are a sufficient proof of this fact ; and Lucas, with all his 
 faults, has furnished us with a greater number of routes than any 
 other traveller in Asia Minor. 1. He went from Constantinople to 
 Nicomedia, Nicsea, and Brusa ; 2. from Brusa to Kutaya, Eski-shehr, 
 Angura, Kir-shehr, Kesaria ; 3. from Kesaria to Nigde, Bor, Erkle, 
 and Konia ; 4. from Konia to Angura, Beibazar, Gheive, Nicomedia, 
 and Constantinople ; 5. from Smyrna to Sardes, Allah-shehr, Alan- 
 kivi, Burdur, Susu, Adalia ; 6. from Adalia to Susu, Isbarta, Igridi,
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 191 
 
 Serkiserai, and Konia ; 7. from Konia to Erkle, and over Mount 
 Taurus, by -the Pylae Ciliciae to Adana and Tarsus. 
 
 Next to Lucas, Otter is the most useful of the early travellers. He 
 was a Swede, sent to Persia by the Court of France in 1734; and he 
 passed from Constantinople through Asia jNlinor, by Isnik, Inoghi, 
 Eski-shehr, Ak-shehr, Konia, Erkle, and Adana. His narrative is 
 chiefly valuable as being composed of the information extracted from 
 some Oriental geographers, whose works are in the Royal Library at 
 Paris, and from one Ibrahim EfFendi, director of the press at Con- 
 stantinople, whose information there is every reason to believe 
 correct, as it accords, in regard to Caramania, with that contained in 
 the works of two other Turkish geographers, who lived about the 
 middle of the seventeenth century : the eldest of these was Mustafa 
 Ben-Abdalla Kalib Tchelebi, better known by the name of Hadji 
 Khalfa ; the other was Abubekr Ben-Behren of Damascus. Though 
 little is to be derived from these authors with regard to the exact 
 situations of places, their evidence on the orthography of the names, 
 and their information upon the political geography are important. 
 
 Among our own countrymen, Pococke is the only traveller of the 
 last century who has published his route with sufficient precision to 
 be of any use to the geographer, but he has been extremely neo-lio-ent 
 in noting bearings and distances : his narrative is very obscure and con- 
 fused ; and his journey in Asia Minor is consequently of much less 
 importance than it might have been made by so enlightened, learned, 
 and persevering a traveller. Tn the year 1739, after visiting a great 
 part of Ionia and Caria, he ascended the valley of the Marauder and 
 its branches to Ishekli and Sandakli, from whence he crossed to Beiad, 
 Sevrihissar, and Angura. From Angura he went to Constantinople, 
 by the way of Boli and Nicomedia. 
 
 Niebuhr's route in Asia Minor in the year 1766, an account of 
 which would have formed part of a third volume of his travels, had 
 not a fire, which destroyed all the copper-plates of the engravings, 
 put a stop to the work, was through Erkle, Konia, Karahissar, Kutaya, 
 and Brusa. He made the observations of latitude which have already
 
 jg2 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 been mentioned ; and Major Rennell is in possession of a copy of the 
 map of his route, struck off from the copper before the fire. 
 
 In the year 1797, Browne returned from the interior of Africa by 
 the way of Asia Minor. From Aleppo and Aintab, he traversed the 
 range of Taurus to Bostan, Kesaria, Angara, Sabanje, and Nicomedia, 
 Mr. M. Bruce * travelled the same route in 1812, and has given us a 
 diary of names and distances not to be found in Browne's printed 
 book of travels. 
 
 It was in the year 1797, also, that Olivier passed through Asia 
 Minor, from Celenderis by Mout, Laranda, Konia, Ak-shehr, Afiom 
 Karahissar, Kutaya, Yenishehr, Nicaea, and Nicomedia. 
 
 Seetzen traversed Asia Minor from Constantinople to Smyrna, and 
 from Smvrna to Afiom Karahissar, Ak-shehr, Konia, Laranda, Ibrala, 
 and across Mount Taurus to Karaduar, (Anchiale, the port of Tarsus,) 
 from whence he passed by sea to Seleucia, the port of Antioch. The 
 distances and the names of the places Avhich he passed through, 
 written with great care, have been preserved ; but it is to be feared 
 that the rest of his valuable manuscripts are irretrievably lost. 
 
 In the year .1801, Browne again traversed Asia Minor from Con- 
 stantinople, by Nicomedia, Brusa f , Kutaya, Afiom Karahissar, Ak- 
 shehr, Konia, Erkle, Tarsus. 
 
 * See the appendix to M. Kinneir's Travels. 
 
 f Tlie following are among Some of the observations of the latitude of places on the 
 road from Smyrna to Constantinople, made by Mr. Browne. They are taken from his 
 MS. papers. 
 
 Latitude. Longitude. 
 
 Smyrna - - - SS" 28' 7" 27° 6' 48" 
 
 Magnisa _ , - 
 
 Demir Kapu 
 
 Balikesr _ - - 
 
 Ulubad 
 
 Michalizza - - - 
 
 Brusa ■ _ _ 
 
 Yenishehr - - - 
 
 Kizderbend - - - 
 
 Nicea - - . 
 
 38° 
 
 41' 
 
 30" 
 
 39° 
 
 49' 
 
 0" 
 
 39° 
 
 32' 
 
 0" 
 
 40° 
 
 y' 
 
 30" 
 
 40° 
 
 16' 
 
 30" 
 
 40° 
 
 9' 
 
 30" 
 
 40° 
 
 12' 
 
 0" 
 
 40° 
 
 32' 
 
 0" 
 
 40° 
 
 21' 
 
 30"
 
 ASIA MINOR. 193 
 
 Among recent travellers. Captain M. Kinneir has made the most 
 important additions to our geographical information respecting the 
 interior of Asia Minor. His routes were, 1. from Constantinople, by 
 Nicaea, Eski-shehr, and Gherma, to Angura ; from Angura, by Uskat, 
 to Kesaria ; and from Kesaria, by Nigde, Ketch-hissar *, and over 
 Mount Taurus, by the Pylae Cilicias, to Tarsus, Adana, and Iskenderun. 
 2. From Celenderis to Mout, Laranda, Konia, Ak-shehr, Afiom 
 Karahissar, Kutaya, Brusa, Mudania. 3. From Constantinople, by 
 Nicomedia, Sabanje, Tereboli, Boli, Kastamuni f, Samsun, Tarabizun, 
 to Erzrum. 
 
 Mr. Kinneir was also one of the many persons who, during the 
 latter years of the war, crossed the northern part of Asia Minor from 
 Tokat, by Amasia, Osmangik, and Boli. This route has been laid 
 down upon paper with considerable accuracy, but cannot be of great 
 use in connecting the geography of the northern parts of Asia Minor, 
 until the longitude of some of its points is known ; and until we 
 have some other routes intersecting it in a direction from north to 
 south. 
 
 Another road which has been still more traversed, is from Brusa or 
 from Maalitch, by Ulubad and Magnesia, to Smyrna; the latitudes 
 of all the principal places on it have been determined by Browne. 
 Of these and of several other routes in the ancient provinces of 
 Mysia, Lydia, and Caria, we have many descriptions in Smith, 
 Wheler, Spon, Chishull, Pococke, Picenini, and Chandler, as well 
 as in manuscript tours which would not be inaccessible to the 
 geographer. 
 
 The authorities upon which our knowledge of the antient geography 
 of the interior of Asia Minor is founded, are the works of Strabo, 
 
 • This is probably an error for Kilissa-Hissar, which, according to Hadgi Khalfa, is 
 the name of a castle near Bor. The bearing and distance of Mr. Kinneir's Ketch-Hissar 
 from Nigde proves that it is the same place as the Bor of Hadgi Khalfa and Paul Lucas. 
 
 f Mr. Kinneir calls this place Costambol, but the Turkish geographers give it the name 
 in the text. 
 
 VOL. II. C C
 
 194 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Ptolemy, Pliny, Stephanus Byzantinus, the curious table or map of 
 roads called the Theodosian or Peutingerian Tables, the Antonine and 
 Jerusalem Itineraries, the Synecdemus of Hierocles, and the following 
 historical narratives of some celebrated military expeditions: 1. The 
 Journal by Xenophon*, of the route of Cyrus from Sardes to Celaense, 
 and from thence to Iconium ; and through Lycaonia and part ofCap- 
 padocia, and over Mount Taurus to Tarsus. 2. Arrian's Narrative of 
 the March of Alexander the Great, from Lycia into Pamphylia and 
 Pisidia, and thence to Gordium in Phrygia, and to Ancyi-a, and 
 through Cappadocia and the Pylae Cilicise to Tarsus, f 3. The account 
 by Livy, of the marches of Cn. Manlius, in Phrygia, Pamphylia, and 
 Pisidia, and thence into Gallograecia, and to Ancyra. X 4. The march 
 of the Emperor Alexius Comnenus, from Constantinople to Iconium, 
 in an expedition against the Turks, as related by his daughter Anna 
 Comnena. 
 
 To these may be added, with regard to the southern coast, an 
 anonymous Periplus, intituled, " a-TaStKcrf^og x-^j 9ix.Xtx.(r(rrig" which was 
 extracted from a manuscript in the Royal Library of INIadrid, and 
 published in a volume, called Regiae Bibliothecae Matritensis Codices 
 Grasci MSS. by the librarian Iriarte, in the year 1769. But the best 
 and most numerous evidences of ancient geography are those which 
 still exist in the country itself, in the ruins of the ancient cities, and 
 in the inscriptions and other monuments which may be found there. 
 When these remains of antiquity are thoroughly explored, and 
 the results applied to the explanation of the passages of history 
 just referred to, they will probably lead to a system of Ancient 
 Geography in Asia Minor, much more correct than we at present 
 possess. For while we are still ignorant of the exact position of such 
 important points as Gordium, Pessinus, Synnada, Ceisense, Cibyra, 
 Sagalassus, Aspendus, Selge, Antioch of Pisidia and Isaura, it is a 
 vain attempt to form any satisfactory system ; the several parts of 
 
 • Ante Christum, 401. t A. C. 333. % A. C. 1S9.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 195 
 
 which must depend so much upon one another, and upon an accurate 
 determination of the principal places. 
 
 On the 19th of January, 1800, I quitted Constantinople, on my 
 way to Egypt, in company with the late Brigadier General Koehler, 
 the late Sir Richard Fletcher, the late Archdeacon Carlyle, Arabic 
 professor at Cambridge, and Mr. Pink, of the corps of Royal iSIilitary 
 Surveyors, and Draftsmen. We were well armed, and dressed as 
 Tatar Couriers, and the whole party, including servants, baggage, 
 Turkish attendants, and postillions, formed a caravan of thirty-five 
 horses. At this time, there were two roads across Asia Minor, used 
 by messengers and other persons, travelling post between the Grand 
 Vizier's army, and the capital ; the one meeting the south coast at 
 Satalia, the other at Kelenderi. We deferred deciding as to which 
 we should follow, until we should arrive at the point of separation. 
 
 We left Iskiodar* at 1 1 A. j\I., and travelled for four hours alono- the 
 borders of the sea of jNlarmora, through one of the most delifhtfui 
 tracts in the neighbourhood of Constantinople ; its beauty heightened 
 by the mildness of the weather, and clearness of the atmosphere. On 
 our right was the tranquil expanse of the sea of JNlarmora, as far as 
 the high woody coast on the south side of Nicomedia, surmounted by 
 the majestic summits of the Bithynian Olympus. In the midst of the 
 magnificent basin were seen immediately before us the Princes Islands, 
 with their picturesque villages and convents, amidst pine groves and 
 vineyards. Our road led sometimes through rich pastures, covered 
 with sheep, but, for the most part, through the gardens which supply 
 a large proportion of the vegetables consumed in the city and its 
 suburbs. Already the beans, and other productions of the sprino', 
 were in a forward state. The road was in some places muddy, but in 
 general very good. Kartal, where we arrived at the end of four hours, 
 is a small place upon the edge of the gulf, in the midst of a ferule 
 and well cultivated district, and has a harbour for small vessels. Half 
 
 • In Greek, SxouTaptov, Skutari. 
 
 cc 2
 
 196 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 an hour further is a Greek village, which preserves unaltered the 
 ancient name U^vrlxiov, pronounced Pandikhi. 
 
 Jan. 20. — From Kartal to Ghebse* five hours, passing through 
 Pandikhi ; and at the end of three hours Tuzla, so called from the salt- 
 works belonging to it. The road winds along the side of the gulf, 
 which, as it narrows, presents a great variety of beautiful landscapes. 
 The soil affords a fine pasture, in some parts of which appear rocks 
 of blue and white marble, projecting above the surface ; and several 
 remains of ancient quarries. We met a JMollah travelling in a Tak- 
 trevan, lounging upon soft cushions, smoking his Narghile f, and 
 accompanied by splendidly-dressed attendants on horseback. His 
 baggage-horses were loaded with mattresses and coverings for his 
 sofas ; valises containing bis clothes ; a large assortment of pipes ; 
 tables of copper ; cauldrons ; saucepans ; and a complete batterie de 
 cuisine. Such a mode of travelling is undoubtedly very different 
 from that which was in use among the Turks of Osman, and Orchan ; 
 and the articles of the Alollah's baggage are, probably, for the most 
 part, of Gi'eek origin, adopted from the conquered nation in the same 
 manner as the Latins borrowed the arts of the Greeks of a better age. 
 In fact, it is to Greek luxuries, with the addition of coffee and 
 tobacco, that the present imbecile condition of these barbarians is to 
 be ascribed ; and " Graecia capta ferum victorem cepit" applies as 
 well to the Turks, as it once did to the Romans ; for, though Greek 
 art in its perfection may be degraded by a comparison with the arts 
 of the Byzantine Greeks, yet in the scale of civilization, the Turks 
 did not bear a higher proportion to these than the Romans did to the 
 others. 
 
 Ghebse, called by the Greeks K/,Iu^a, is a Turkish town, having 
 a few Greek houses. The only remarkable object in it is a fine 
 
 * The rule observed in writing tlie Turkish names is, that the vowels should be pro- 
 nounced as in Italian, and the consonants as in English. Gh, Dh, and Kh, are intended 
 to express the aspirated forms of G, D, K. 
 
 ■\ A kind of pipe in which the smoke is made to pass through water: used in every 
 part of the East.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 197 
 
 mosque of white marble, surrounded with a grove of large cypresses, 
 both of the pointed kind and of those of which the branches are 
 looser and more spreading. This mosque, and some good baths, were 
 built by Moustafa Pasha, who was Grand Vizier to Sultan Selim the 
 First at the time of the conquest of Egypt. An imperfect Greek in- 
 scription was the only indication which I observed of Ghebse being 
 on the site of a Greek city. 
 
 Jan. 21. — From Ghebse to Kizderwent, nine hours. Our route 
 for the first three hours was parallel to the shore of the gulf, which 
 here presents, on either side, a beautiful scenery of abrupt capes and 
 woody promontories, with villages upon the sides of the mountains, 
 and corn-fields and vineyards to their very tops. The road then de- 
 scends to the water-side under the small village of Malsum, where a 
 long tongue of land, projecting from the opposite shore, affords a con- 
 venient ferry of about two miles across, to the south side of the gulf It 
 is called the ferry of the Dil (tongue), and being much frequented is well 
 supplied with large boats and constant attendance. The persons em- 
 ployed in it are lodged in tents by the water-side. We write to our 
 friends at Constantinople by a huntsman of the Sultan, who is returning 
 from the chace loaded with pheasants, partridges, and other game, 
 which he had been killing for the Imperial table in the woods near the 
 gulf It takes us two hours to unload, cross the ferry, and reload. We 
 then ride three miles along the Dil before we gain the line of coast. 
 Leaving the town of Ersek at no great distance on our right, we pro- 
 ceed up a beautiful valley, watered by a river which joins the gulf 
 near the Dil. This river we cross more than twenty times ; passing 
 through the water, or over good stone bridges. In many places the 
 river falls in cascades over the rocks. The sky is without a cloud ; 
 and the temperature that of England in April or ]\Iay. The ground 
 is covered with violets, crocusses, and hyacinths. The road being 
 excellent, we travel nearly at the rate of four miles and a half an hour, 
 and finish our nine hours in seven. We passed the ruins of an old 
 castle of the date of the lower Greek empire, with many towers. On 
 the slopes on either side are seen flocks of sheep and goats ; in the 
 valley the peasants are at plough, and we meet long caravans of
 
 "I^gg ASIA MINOR. 
 
 camels tied together, and preceded by an ass. As we approached 
 Kizderwent, which is situated in a retired part of the valley, near the 
 source of the river we had been following, we enter an extensive 
 mulberry plantation, this being one of the numerous villages in the 
 neighbourhood that supply Brusa with the excellent silk for which it 
 is noted in the commercial world. Vineyards, on the slopes of the 
 hills around, furnish also a tolerable wine. Kizderwent (the pass of 
 the girls) having the misfortune to lie upon the great road from Con- 
 stantinople to Brusa, Kutaya, and Konia, is exposed to a thousand 
 vexations from passengers, notwithstanding the privileges and ex- 
 emptions which have been granted to it by the Porte. It is inhabited 
 solely by Greeks. Upon our arrival we found our konakgi, a Tatar 
 courier, who has the charge of riding forward to procure lodgings 
 (konak), seated over a blazing fire in a neat cottage, which formed a 
 favourable contrast to the meanness and want of comfort seen amidst 
 the pretended magnificence of the Turkish houses. To judge from 
 what we have hitherto observed, the lower order of Christians are not 
 in a worse condition in Asia Minor than the same class of Turks ; and 
 if the Christians of European Turkey have some advantages arising 
 from the effects of the superiority of their numbers over the Turks, 
 those of Asia have the satisfaction of seeing that the Turks are as 
 much oppressed by the men in power as they are themselves ; and 
 they have to deal with a race of Mussulmans generally milder, more 
 religious, and better principled than those of Europe. 
 
 Jan. 22. — We travel in a fine valley, continually ascending. At 
 the end of an hour we came suddenly upon a view of the lake Asca- 
 nius. It is about ten miles long, and four wide ; surrounded on three 
 sides by steep woody slopes, behind which rise the snowy summits of 
 the Olympus range. A forest of Ilex, and other evergreens, mixed 
 with oaks, cover the nearer slopes ; while on the left, along the head 
 of the lake, we perceived a rich cultivated plain, at the extremity of 
 which, soon afterwards appears, on the edge of the lake, the entire cir- 
 cuit of the ancient walls of Nicaea, with their massy towers and gates. 
 Nothing is more striking in this magnificent prospect, than that clear-
 
 ASIA MINOR. 199 
 
 ness of atmosphere, and brilliancy of colouring, which is so seldom seen 
 in our northern scenei'v. We make the circuit of the northern end of 
 the lake ; passing for ten miles through the plain, where we find the 
 almond-trees already in blossom ; and traverse plantations of olives, 
 mulberries, and vines. We leave, at about two miles on our left, an 
 ancient triangular obelisk, standing single in the middle of the plain. 
 It bears an inscription, which has been published by Pococke, and 
 proves that the obelisk was erected in honour of C. Cassius Philiscus. 
 We pass through one of the ancient gates of Nicsea, and in the midst 
 of the garden ground now inclosed within its walls, we arrive at the 
 wretched Turkish town of Isnik, distant five complete hours, or about 
 twenty miles, from Kizderwent. 
 
 Of the ancient places situated between Constantinople and Nicsea, 
 we have sufficient evidence of the situation of Scutarium * and Pan- 
 tichium f, in the preservation of their ancient names. Gheviza has 
 generally been supposed a corruption of Libyssa, the name of a small 
 maritime town, celebrated as having been the burying place of Anni- 
 bal ; but Gheviza is more probably the successor of Dacibyza ; the 
 word, when written in Greek, {KiGv^a) being no more than the ancient 
 Aay./,Gu^a, with the loss of the first syllable. The thirty-six or thirty- 
 nine Roman miles, moreover, placed in the itinerary, between Chal- 
 cedonia and Libyssa, will not agree so well with the nine hours from 
 Skutare to Ghebse, as with the twelve hours to Alalsum, which place I 
 take to stand on the site of Libyssa. Plutarch appears to confirm 
 this supposition, for in mentioning Libyssa J, he speaks of a sandy 
 place, which answers to the promontory of Dil. Dacibyza is men- 
 tioned by several of the historians of the Lower Empire, as a place 
 where, by order of the Arian Emperor Valens, eighty priests, of the 
 
 * Oi^xvYiC .... r^Kh Wfi: TW By^avTi'ou tyiV Ylipxiciv, 3 'S.x.ouTupidV sy^cupliui (JV0|xa^£T«i. 
 — Cantacuz. 1. 4. c. 4. 
 
 f Antonin. Itin. Wess. p. 19. Hierosol. It. p. 571. 
 
 % 'Ev Ss BiSuvia TOTTO; icn) 3r/ct5)if aTro SaXa^s-j;,' xa) Tpi; ayr? x^ftr; tij 6v /xfyaXrj Ai'/S'jtrtra 
 xaXsiVai. — Parall. in Flamin.
 
 200 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 opposite sect, were burned with the ship wherein they were em- 
 barked.* The river descending from Kizdcrwent to the Dil, can be 
 no other than the Draco, which Procopius describes as remarkable for 
 its winding course. It is singular that I had made the observation, 
 that we crossed it about twenty times, in our way from the Dil to 
 Kizderwent, before I was aware that Procopius had made precisely 
 the same remark with regard to the Draco.f In the first crusade, the 
 passes of the river Draco were fatal to some of the Normans, under 
 Peter the Hermit. After landing at Helenopolis, and rashly push- 
 ing forward towards Xerigordus, on the way to Nicasa, they here fell 
 into a Turkish ambuscade which awaited them. :|: Helenopolis, 
 named after the mother of Constantine the Great, having been near 
 the Draco, was probably at or near Ersek. We find time, in the 
 evening, to walk among the ruins of Nicaea. The ancient walls, 
 towers, and gates are in tolerably good preservation. Their con- 
 struction resembles that of the walls of Constantinople, with which 
 they are coaeval. In most places they are formed of alternate courses 
 of Roman tiles, and of large and square stones, joined by cement of 
 great thickness. In some places have been inserted columns, and 
 other architectural fragments, the ruins of more ancient edifices. Of 
 the towers, those on the edge of the lake, and on either side of the 
 different gates, are the largest and most perfect. We remark, also, 
 the remains of two walls which projected from the main enceinte 
 into the water, intended, undoubtedly, to exclude, when necessary, 
 all communication under the walls, along the edge of the lake. Some 
 of the towers, like those of Constantinople, have Greek inscriptions, 
 which have been published in the Inscriptiones Antiquee of Pococke. 
 The ruins of mosques, baths, and houses, dispersed among the gardens 
 and cornfields, which now occupy a great part of the space within the 
 
 * Zonaras, 1. 13. c. 16. Socrates, 1, 4. c. 16. Sozomen, ]. 6. c. 14. Cedrenus, p. 3 1 J . 
 Theophanes, p. 50. 
 
 f AiafSaivsiv auToy ttXsiov ^ sixoaaxif Io-ti toi; t^Se iouTi. PrOC. de IE,d\i, 1. 5. C. 2. 
 X Anna Comnena, 1. 1 0. c. 7>
 
 ASIA MINOR. 201 
 
 Greek fortifications, show that the Turkish Isnik, though now so in- 
 considerable, was once a place of importance, as indeed its history, 
 under the early Ottomans, before they were in possession of Constan- 
 tinople, gives us sufficient reason to expect. But it never was so large 
 as the Grecian Nicaea, and it seems to have been almost entirely con- 
 structed of the remains of that city ; for the ruined mosques and 
 baths are full of the fragments of Greek temples and churches. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Le/kr. — Cultivation of the Country. — Dress and Appearance of the People. — Shughut. — 
 Eski-shehr, the ancient Doryhewn. — Seidel Ghazi. — Mode of extracting the Twpetitinc 
 from the Pine Trees. — Rocks excavated into Sepulchres and Catacombs. — Remarkable 
 and interesting Monunient (f Doganlit. — Characters inscribed on the Rock. — Attempt to 
 ascertain the Site of Nacoleia. — Opinion respect iiig the Sadpture and Inscriptioti at 
 Dogaidu. — Kosni Khan. — Insa'iption to Jupiter Papias. — Btdvnidun. — Isaklii. — 
 Ak-shchr. — Ilgim. — Ladik. — State of the Climate. 
 
 Jan. 23. — From Isnik to Lefke, six hours, and from Lefke to 
 Vezir-Khan, four hours. We rise at two in the morning ; but as it 
 takes near three hours for the whole party to breakfast, pack up the 
 baggage, and load the horses, we are not ready till five, and have then 
 to wait an hour and a half for horses. We soon leave the borders of 
 the beautiful lake of Isnik, and proceed up a valley, which we quit 
 after three or four miles, and suddenly ascend to the left a hill of 
 moderate height. Soon losing sight of the lake, we advance along an 
 elevated barren country, until we enter a deep ravine formed by 
 towering cliffs on either side, where a great variety of luxuriant ever- 
 greens spring from among the rocks. The ravine leads into a valley, 
 where the same kind of scenery receives additional beauty from the 
 contrast which opens upon us of a fine valley, watered by the Sakaria, 
 a name corrupted from the antient Sangarius, although this seems 
 
 VOL. II. • D D
 
 202 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 not to have been the main branch of the river, but that which was an- 
 ciently called Gallus. Let'ke, a neat town built of sun-baked bricks, is 
 situated in the middle of this beautiful valley near the river, which we 
 crossed by a handsome stone bridge a little before we entered the town. 
 We find the cultivation in this valley as perfect as that of some of the 
 most civilized parts of Europe. The fields are separated by neat 
 hedges and ditches. Extensive plantations of mulberry trees, mixed 
 with vinejards and corn-fields, occupy the lower grounds, while cul- 
 tivated patches ai'e seen to a great height in the hills, which in other 
 parts furnish a fine pasture to sheep and goats. This delightful region 
 exhibits a most picturesque contrast with the unevenness and grandeur 
 of the surrounding mountains. We were told there had lately been 
 an insurrection with the design of expelling an obnoxious Kadi, but 
 we did not perceive the least appearance of disturbance. We follow 
 the valley, passing many villages on either hand, for four hours more, 
 to Vezir-Khan. Since we have left the eulf of Nicomedia we have 
 seen no marks of wheel-carriages, and we meet with scarcely any 
 person on the road during this day's journey, except a party of 
 Turkish horsemen with their dogs, in search of hares. The Turks of 
 this part of the country are an extremely handsome race : they have 
 a great variety of head-dresses, most of which are highly becoming 
 to their fine countenances. The women who appear abroad are in- 
 variably dressed in the shapeless ferije, and the veil so often described 
 by travellers. At Vezir-Khan we were lodged in a small mud-built 
 house, and had to wait a considerable time before our attendants could 
 prevail upon the people to kill the fowls intended for our dinner, and 
 to send men to the river to catch some fish. The valley around is 
 covered with extensive plantations of mulberry trees ; and the orchards, 
 vineyards, and corn-fields, enclosed with hedges, exhibit signs of 
 neatness and comfort to which there is a great contrast in the misery 
 of the houses. 
 
 Jan. 24. — From Vezir-Khan to Shughut, eight hours: the weather 
 still delightfully clear and mild. For the first two hours we continue 
 to pursue the valley, and then ascend a lofty ridge, a branch of
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 203 
 
 Olympus. It incloses on the east the valleys watered by the branches 
 of the Sangarius which we have passed, as the heights between Isnik 
 and Lefke do on the opposite side. Our road across the mountain 
 presents some wild scenery of broken rocks and barren downs with 
 little or no wood, and occasionally the view of extensive valleys on 
 either side. At the summit of the ridge we pass a Karakol-hane 
 (guard-house), and at the foot of the mountain on the east side we 
 enter some pleasant valleys, conducting into an open expanse of un- 
 dulated ground, well cultivated with corn. It gives a favourable idea 
 of Asiatic husbandry, but there is little appearance of inhabitants, only 
 three or four small villages being in sight in the whole of our day's 
 journey. The weather being dry the road is excellent ; but in rainy 
 weather must be quite the reverse on account of the rich deep soil. 
 At the further end of this champaign country we perceive the town 
 Shughut, and upon an adjacent hill the tomb of Ali Osman, founder 
 of the Ottoman dynasty. Shughut was bestowed upon Ertogrul, the 
 father of Osman the Sultan of Konia, for his services in war ; and 
 became the capital of a small state, which included the circumjacent 
 country as far as Angura on the east, and in the opposite direction all 
 the mountainous district lying between the valleys of the Sangarius and 
 those of the Hermus and Masander. From hence Osman made him- 
 self master of Nicaea and Prusa, and of all Phrygia and Bithynia, and 
 thus laid the foundations of the Turkish greatness. There is another 
 tomb of Osman at Brusa, the most important of the places which he 
 conquered from tlie Greeks. The Turks, however, of this part of 
 Asia Minor assert that it is a cenotaph, and that the bones of Osman 
 were laid by the side of those of his father Ertogrul in his native 
 town. The tomb is built like some of the handsomest and most 
 ancient of the Turkish sepulchres at Constantinople, and is situated in 
 the midst of a grove of cvpresses and evergreen oaks. 
 
 The town is said to contain 900 houses, but now exhibits a wretched 
 appearance, chiefly in consequence of a late insurrection of the inha- 
 bitants, a party of 300 of whom have put to death, within three 
 months, three different Ayans sent here by the Porte. At present 
 
 D D 2
 
 204 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 the government of Constantinople has the upper hand, and the in- 
 surgents have been obliged to fl_y to the mountains, but we find the 
 new governor with all his troops still on the alerte to prevent the 
 place from being once more surprised and pillaged. Our situation is 
 rendered still more uncomfortable by the discovery we now make, 
 that our travelling firmahn, in consequence of an intrigue at Con- 
 stantinople, of which we too well know the original mover, is drawn 
 up in such a manner as to leave it in the power of any of the Turks 
 to obstruct our progress, and the Ayan of Shughut accordingly takes 
 advantage of it to extort a present before he will give us the smallest 
 assistance. We are wretchedly lodged in a ruinous apartment over a 
 stable occupied by the Ayan's cavalry ; and cannot prevent the sol- 
 diers from coming into the room and examining our arms and baggage. 
 Tiiere are large plantations of mulberries around the town, and every 
 house manufactures a considerable quantity of raw silk. 
 
 Jan. 25. — It is nine o'clock before we can procure any horses, and 
 then find none to be had but some wretched animals covered with 
 sores, and almost skeletons. At first setting out they are hardly able 
 to walk ; but to our surprise we find, before we have travelled many 
 miles, that most of them have a very easy and rapid pace, perform a 
 journey of ten hours' distance with only a few short halts, and arrived 
 at our konak at Eski-shehr apparently in better travelling condition 
 than when they set out. Our road indeed is dry and level, and the 
 weather still fine. Half the route was over mountains and woody ; 
 the latter half over an extensive plain not less than 30 miles in length 
 and 10 in breadth, but very thinly peopled and not above one-third 
 cultivated. Seven or eight miles short of Eski-shehr were some 
 ancient Greek ruins upon a rising ground in the plain. Amidst a 
 great number of scattered fragments of columns, and other remnants 
 of architecture, we find several pedestals or o-rjjXa* of a clumsy con- 
 struction, with some almost-defaced fragments of Greek inscriptions, 
 in which we endeavoured in vain to discover the name of the city 
 though the word Tro'Xij was visible. The ruins are called Besh-Kardash 
 (the five brothers) ; the number of pedestals standing, however, is
 
 ASIA MINOR. 205 
 
 more than five, but five is a favourite number with the Turks ; to 
 5, 15, 40, 100, or 1001, all uncertain numbers are generally ascribed. 
 
 Eski-shehr is about the same size as Shughut, and is advantageously 
 situated on the root of the hills, which border on the north the great 
 plain already mentioned. The town is divided into an upper and 
 lower quarter, and is traversed by a small stream which at the foot of 
 the hills joins the Pursek or ancient Thymbrius. This river rises to 
 the south of Kutaya, passes by that city, and joins the Sangarius a 
 few hours to the north-east of Eski-shehr. This place is now cele- 
 brated for its hot-baths : we were unable to ascertain whether it pre- 
 serves any remains of antiquity * ; but there can be little doubt that 
 it stands upon the site of Dorylasum. The plain of Dorylaeum is 
 often mentioned by the Byzantine historians as the place of assem- 
 blage of the armies of the Eastern empire in their wars against the 
 Turks, and it is described by Anna Comnena f as being the first ex- 
 tensive plain of Phrygia after crossing the ridges of Mount Olympus, 
 and after passing Leucae. As we have undoubted evidence of the 
 position of Leucse in the name of the village Lef ke, which is exactly 
 the modern pronunciation of the Greek AsuSca;, there seems to be 
 little doubt that the plain of Dorylseum is that of Eski-shehr. 
 
 The site of the town itself is not less decisively fixed at Eski-shehr 
 by the description of Cinnamus (16. c. 14.), who mentions its hot 
 baths, its fertile plain, and its river, as well as by the ancient iti- 
 neraries |: for from Dorylaeum diverged roads, 1. to Philadelphia; 
 2. to Apameia Cibotus, or Celaense ; 3. to Laodiceia Combusta, and 
 Iconium ; 4. to Pessinus and Amorium ; 5. to Ancyra : a coincidence 
 of lines which (their remote extremities being nearly certain) will not 
 apply to any point but Eski-shehr, or some place in its immediate 
 neighbourhood. The position of Eski-shehr accords also with the 
 
 • Mr. M. Kinncir found some antique remains, and copied Christian Greclc inscriptions 
 here. Paul Lucas found some ruins, and transcribed some incomplete inscriptions at an 
 Armenian village an hour and a half from Eski-shehr. 
 
 t L. 11. and L. 15. 
 
 X Tab. Theodos. Segm. vi. Anton. Itin. p. 202.
 
 206 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Antonine and Jerusalem itineraries, inasmuch as we observe in these 
 tables that the road from Nicaea to Ancyra did not pass through 
 Dorjlseum ; Eski-shehr being about twenty miles to the south of a 
 line drawn from Isnik to Angura. 
 
 The Aga of Eski-shehr was formerly in the government of a town 
 six hours distant, the name of which we neglected to note. He had 
 long been at war with the governor of Eski-shehr, and at length 
 having acquired the preponderancy so far as to carry off all his oppo- 
 nent's sheep and cattle, he followed up his successes last year with 
 such increased energy that he added his rival's head to the other 
 spoils, and has since been in undisturbed possession of both places, 
 and confirmed in his authority by the Porte. 
 
 Jan. 26. — From Eski-shehr to Seid-el-Ghazi, a computed distance 
 of nine hours. We have a sharp wind at east. Our road for the 
 first half of the journey continues to cross the same wide uncultivated 
 plains, but towards the end they are more broken into hill and dale, 
 and appear less wild and desolate. Scarcely a tree is to be seen 
 through the whole day's journey. Upon the edge of the plains we 
 observe in many places sepulchral chambers excavated in the rocks. 
 In these and in the fragments of ancient architecture dispersed in 
 different parts of the plains, we have undoubted proofs of their ancient 
 state of cultivation and populousness. The latter part of our journey 
 is over low ridges ; the road throughout is excellent, and fit for wheel 
 carriages. Seid-el-Ghazi is a poor ruined village, but it bears marks 
 of having once been a place of more importance, even in Turkish 
 times ; as thei*e is a fine mosque upon the side of a hill which com- 
 mands the village, dedicated to the Mussulman saint, from whom the 
 place derives its name. There are also several fragments of archi- 
 tecture which fix it as the site of an ancient Greek city. 
 
 Jan. 27. — From Seid-el-Ghazi to Kosru Fasha-Khany, the distance 
 is seven hours ; but we make a detour to the right of the direct road, 
 for the sake of viewing some monuments of antiquity, which were re- 
 ported to us at Seid-el-Ghazi. We first ascend for some distance, and 
 pass over an elevated stony heath, in a direction to the westward of
 
 IAPFAf^AK^rArorAF°iir/AAI;hAf^ArTAM:^ArAt=T^li^AAI 
 
 BABA;rpr^FAI|irP°IT^F°|;tc9IJ^AKAFP4^ III! t^f r^ r^Nil/^ A li 
 
 li'tiiion. Puhh,* 'ir,f J/./i //»./,¥/// At- l.wi/m in. I/i/r.<t .J\ffj. Ornir XBr.iu n ,f<it,vfu^shH- f(.m-
 
 ASIA MINOR. 207 
 
 south ; we then enter a forest of pine-trees, from many of which they 
 had been extracting the turpentine, by making an incision at the foot 
 of the tree, and then Hghting a fire under it. By these means the resin 
 descends rapidly, and is soon collected in large quantities, but the tree 
 is killed ; and it sometimes happens that the fire communicating de- 
 stroys large tracts of the forest. We saw several remains of these 
 conflagrations, as we passed along. After traversing the forest for an 
 hour, we come in sight of a beautiful valley, situated in the midst of 
 it. Turning to the left, after we descend into the valley, we find it to 
 be a small plain, about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad, 
 embosomed in the forest, and singularly variegated with rocks, which 
 rise perpendicularly out of the soil, and assume the shape of ruined 
 towers and castles. Some of these are upwards of 150 feet in height, 
 and one or two, entirely detached from the rest, have been excavated 
 into ancient catacombs, with doors and windows, and galleries, in such 
 a manner that it requires a near inspection to convince us that what 
 we see are natural rocks, and not towers and buildings. We find the 
 chambers within to have been sepulchres, containing excavations for 
 coffins, and niches for cinerary vases. Following the course of the 
 valley to the S. E., we come in sight of some sepulchral chambers, ex- 
 cavated with more art, and having a portico with two columns before 
 the door, above which a range of dentils forms a cornice. But the 
 most remarkable of these excavations, is that which will best be under- 
 stood by the annexed sketch of it, taken by General Koehler, while 
 Mr. Carlyle and myself were employed in copying two inscriptions 
 engraved upon the face of the rock. In the upper, a few letters are 
 deficient at the beginning and end ; the lower appeared to us to be 
 complete. The letters of the first are larger and wider asunder than 
 tliose of the second. Both are written from leftto right, but in the 
 lower inscription the letters are written do'c^nu-ards, along the edge of 
 the monument, so that to place the eyes upon the same line with the 
 inscription, the head must be held sideways. The rock which has 
 been shaped into this singular monument rises to a height of upwards 
 of one hundred feet above the plain, and at the back, and on one of
 
 208 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 its sides, remains in its natural state. The ornamented part is about 
 sixty feet square, surmounted by a kind of pediment, above which are 
 two vohites. The figures cut upon the rock are no where more than 
 an inch deep below the surface, except towards the bottom, where the 
 excavation is much deeper, and resembles an altar. It is not im- 
 possible, however, that it may conceal the entrance into the sepul- 
 chral chamber, where lie the remains of the person in whose honour 
 this magnificent monument was formed ; for in some other parts of 
 Asia JNIinor, especially at Telmissus, we have examples of the wonder- 
 ful ingenuity with which the ancients sometimes defended the en- 
 trance into their tombs. There can be little doubt that the 
 monument was sepulchral ; the ci'ypts and catacombs in the exca- 
 vated rocks prove that the valley was set apart for such purposes, to 
 which its singularly retired position and romantic scenery, amidst 
 these extensive forests, rendered it peculiarly well adapted. 
 
 The valley bears the name of Doganlu, from a neighbouring village 
 which we do not see, but where we are informed are remains of 
 antient fortifications, called by the Turks Pismash Kalesi. I am in- 
 clined to think they mark the site of Nacoleia, named by Strabo 
 among the cities of the same province of Phrygia Epictetus, in which 
 were situated Cotyaeium, Dorylaeum, and Midaium ; for the first of 
 these places (now Kutaya) is only twenty geographical miles, in direct 
 distance, to the north-westward of Doganlu ; the second Dorylaeum 
 (Eski-shehr) is thirty G. M. D. to the north of Doganlu ; and Mi- 
 daium (as will presently be seen) was somewhere to the north-eastward, 
 at about the same distance. But a still closer argument, in favour of 
 Nacoleia, being situated near the valley of Doganlu, is derived from 
 a comparison of the several routes leading from Dorylaeum, as stated 
 in the Theodosian tables, and in the itinerary of Antoninus. These 
 routes are five in number ; and though little reliance can be placed 
 upon the distances between the several places, especially in the Theo- 
 dosian tables, from which four of these routes are extracted, the order 
 of names seems to furnish evidence that cannot be very erroneous.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 209 
 
 The first of the routes, as they are arranged in the subjoined note *, led 
 east, by Germa to Ancyra (the modern Angara) ; the second led east- 
 south-east, by Midaium to Pessinus, from whence there was another 
 road to Amorium, the site of which last appears from inscriptions 
 found by Pococke to have been not far from Sevrihissar ; the third con- 
 ducted south-east to Synnada, Philomelium, and Laodiceia Combusta 
 (now Yorgan Ladik) ; the fourth led south to Nacoleia, and by Peltse 
 to Apameia Cibotus ; and the fifth led south-west by Cotyaeium to 
 Philadelphia (Allah-Shehr). Now, although the exact situation of 
 Apameia Cibotus has not yet been determined, we know that it was 
 towards the sources of the streams which form the JNIeander, and it 
 cannot be doubted that the bearing of these streams from Eski-Shehr 
 is a little to the westward of south. Xacoleia, therefore, bore in that 
 direction from Doryljeum ; it was on a route lying between the road 
 leading to Synnada and Laodiceia, and that leading to Cotyaeium and 
 Philadelphia ; and it was the first town which occurred on the road to 
 
 * I. Iter a Dorileo Ancyra. 
 
 Aicclaio ... M. P. 30. 
 
 Germa - - - M. P. 20. 
 
 Vindia - - - M. P. 3-'. 
 
 Pnpira - - - . M. P. 32. 
 
 Ancyra - . _ M. P. 27. — Antonin. Itiner. p. 202. ed. Wessel. 
 
 The total is MI Roman miles. The real distance upon the map, between Eski-Shehr 
 and Angura, is 100 geographical miles direct. 
 
 In the Tlicodosinn Tables, we have the following distances : — 
 
 II. Dorileo, 28 Mideo, 28 Tricomia, 21 Pessinunte, 24 Abrostola, 23 Amurio. Total 
 77 M. P. to Pessinus, and 4-7 M. P. from Pessinus to Amorium ; the former 
 distance on tiie map is about GO G. M. d., the latter about 20 G. M. d. 
 III. Dorileo, Docymeo, 32 Synnada, 32 JuUae, 35 Philomelo, 28 Laudicia Catacecau- 
 mcno. Total Ijy 'M.P. plus the distance from Dorylajum to Docimia. The 
 distance upon the map is about 130 G. M. d. . 
 IV. Dorileo, 20 Necolea, 40 Conni, 32 Eucarpia, 30 Eumenia, Pella (lege Peltae), 
 12 ad vicuni, 14 Apamea Ciboton. Total 148 M. P., plus the distance from 
 Eumenia to Pella. The distance upon the map is about 100 G. M. d. 
 V. Dorileo, 30 Cocleo (lege Cotyaeo), 35 Agmonia, 25 Aludda, 30 Clanudda, 35 Phi- 
 ladclfia. Total 155 M. P. The distance upon the map is about 120 G. M. d. 
 In the Theodosian Tables, the proportion between the real distances, and the amount 
 of the several computed distances in Roman miles, show that the distance from one place 
 to another cannot be relied on to within ten or twelve miles. In some cases the errors are 
 still greater. 
 
 VOL. II. * E E
 
 210 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Apameia : all which circumstances accord with the position of Doganlu 
 in respect of Eski-Shehr. 
 
 On first beholding the great sculptured rock of the valley of Do- 
 ganlu, and on remarking the little resemblance which it bears to the 
 works of the Greeks, our idea was, that it might have been formed by 
 the ancient Persians, when in possession of this country ; and that the 
 lower part, resembling an altar, might have had some reference to their 
 worship of fire ; but, upon further reflection, there appeared several 
 objections to such a supposition. In the first place, none of the great 
 monuments of the Persians arc likely to be found at so great a distance 
 from Susa and Persepolis,in a part of the country of which they had only 
 a temporary possession, and which could never have been considered by 
 them in any other light than a conquered foreign country of doubtful 
 tenure. Secondly, the style of ornament does not exactly resemble any 
 known monument of the ancient Persians ; and, thirdly, the characters 
 of the inscriptions, which have every appearance of being coevalwith the 
 rest of the work, bear so close a resemblance to the letters of the Greek 
 alphabet, in their earliest form, that the most reasonable conjecture 
 seems to be that this monument is the work of the ancient Phrygians, 
 who, like the lonians *, Lydiansf, and other nations of Asia Minor, 
 in a state of independence before the Persian conquest, made use of an 
 alphabet differing slightly from the Greek, and derived from the same 
 Phenician original. While the form of the characters X^ ^s well as the 
 
 * Hcrodot. ]. 1. c. 142., 1.5. c. 59, 
 
 f We have the remains of the Lydian alphabet in the Etruscan ; for thousih it is con- 
 tested by Dionysiiis of Halicarnassus that the Etruscans were a Lydian colony, Appian, 
 Strabo, Plutarch, Justin, Velleius Patcrculus, Dionysius Pcricrrctes, and Marcian of 
 Heracleia, prove that such was the genera! opinion of anti(juity, and the evidence of Plero- 
 dotus, (1. 1. c. 94.) together witii that of the Etruscan alphabet, and of an Etruscan de- 
 cree reported by Tacitus (Annal. 1.4. s. 55.) seems decisive on the subject. 
 
 J Besides the F, which is the Greek digamma, and tiie E, which is the early cpsilon, 
 the reader will observe that there occurs also a ^, with four transverse lines ; whether 
 the two latter are the same, or different letters, is doubtful, but I should sus[iect the .same, 
 as both inscriptions end with the same word, EA AE; though in the one, the first 
 letter of the word is^, and in the other p. I particularly observed that both these cha- 
 racters recurred scveial times in the insciiptions, and eiidcavourtd therefore to distinguish 
 them with accuracy.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 211 
 
 vertical ranges of points * for noting the separation of the words, bear 
 a marked resemblance to the Archaic Greek, some of the words are in 
 unison with the sculptured ornaments of this monument, which indi- 
 cate that the inscriptions are not in pure Greek. Both in the re- 
 semblance and dissimilitude, therefore, they accord with what we 
 should expect of the dialect of the Phrygians, whose connection with 
 Greece is evident from many parts of its early history ; at the same 
 time, that the distinction between the two nations is strongly marked 
 by Herodotus, who gives to the Phrygians the appellation of bar- 
 barians. 
 
 It is further remarkable that the sculpture of the monument of 
 Doganlu, though unlike any thing of Greek workmanship, is very 
 much in the same style, as the elaborate ornaments (equally remote 
 from Grecian taste) which covered the half columns formerly standing 
 on either side of the door of the Treasury of Atreus, a building said to 
 have been erected by the Cyclopes, who were supposed to have been 
 artisans from Asia. 
 
 Upon comparing the alphabet of the monument of Doganlu with 
 the Archaic Greek, and with the Etruscan, it is observable that there 
 is no greater difference between the three than might be expected in 
 distant and long-separated branches of the same family. It is to be 
 remarked, however, that the Greek alphabet, and that of Doganlu, 
 resemble each other much more than they resemble the Etruscan, as 
 well in the form of the letters, as in the important circumstance of 
 their being written from left to right, instead of from right to left, as 
 the Etruscan always continued to be. -f But this is a distinction which 
 may be accounted for, by supposing that the monument of Doganlu 
 is much less ancient than the migration of the Lydian alphabet to 
 Italy ; that in the interval between that migration and the date of the 
 inscriptions of Doganlu, the Lydians and Phrygians had changed the 
 
 * See some of the most ancient Greek inscriptions ; particularly that given by Mont- 
 faucon Palaeo, relating to those who died in the Peloponnesian war. 
 f See Lanzi, Saggio di Lingua Etrusca. 
 
 EE 2
 
 212 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 direction of their writing, as we know to have been the case with the 
 Greeks, who at first wrote either from right to left, or indifferently 
 either way ; then in alternate lines, in the manner called Bov(rT^o(p-^§ov, 
 and at last constantly from left to right ; while the Etruscans may 
 have continued to employ the original method used in Lydia, accord- 
 ing to a practice common among colonists, of adhering to ancient 
 customs, even after they have become obsolete in the mother country. 
 It seems a vain attempt to endeavour to explain inscriptions, written 
 in a language of which we have no other remains ; yet as the charac- 
 ters are themselves a proof that there was a great resemblance between 
 this dialect and the Greek, it is not impossible that some light may be 
 thrown upon ancient history by the monument of Doganlu, if other 
 inscriptions in the same dialect should hereafter be discovered. Upon 
 this subject there are one or two remarks that cannot fail to occur, 
 even to a superficial examiner of the inscriptions. 
 
 It has already been remarked, that the lower inscription beginning 
 BABA is complete, and it may be presumed that the upper, though in- 
 complete at either end, wants but a few letters. This seems evident, as 
 well from its occupying the whole length of a sort of outer pediment, 
 as from its concluding word, which wants only one letter of being the 
 same as the concluding word of the lower inscription. This con- 
 cluding word is very remarkable ; written in Greek it is EAAE, or 
 EAAEI. Now sSa-e from (^a/i , to divide or cut with a sharp instrument, 
 is precisely such a Greek word as one might have expected to find in 
 a very ancient Greek inscription upon a monument, all the apparent 
 merit of which is the cutting of squares, lozenges, and other regular 
 figures, upon the smoothed surface of a rock. In examining the other 
 words, we find further resemblances of the Greek. The 2d, 3d, and 
 4th words of the lower inscription, and the first word of the upper in- 
 scription (if it be a single word), all seem to end in sigma, and three 
 of them in oq, thus rendering it not improbable that the words 1,2, 3,* 
 4, of the lower inscription, contained the name and title of the person 
 who engraved that inscription ; that liKeusfia.v perhaps indicated the 
 place from whence he came; and that the long word, No. 1. of the
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 213 
 
 upper inscription, was the name of the person who placed that in- 
 scription. But the most remarkable words of all are the second and 
 fourth of the upper inscription, which, written in Greek, are MIAAI 
 FANAKTEI, " to King Midas," with some word between them, which, 
 like them, appears to be in the dative case, and may be some title or 
 patronymic of the King ; so that the result of these remarks is a strono- 
 presumption that the monument was erected in honour of one of the 
 Kings of Phrygia, of the iNlidaian family. The situation of the place, 
 the construction of the monument, the tenor of the inscription, and 
 the form of the letters greatly resembling the Greek of the same 
 period of time, all render the supposition probable ; while the names 
 jNIidaium and Gordium ; the remark of Strabo that the banks of the 
 river Sangarius were the ancient habitation of Gordius and iVlidas ; 
 the observation of Pausanias * that Ancyra was founded by IMidas, and 
 that in his time there was a fountain in that city, called the fountain of 
 Midas ; together with the testimony both of Strabo f and Pausanias, 
 that a tribe of Gauls, in seizing the country adjacent to Ancyra and 
 Pessinus, occupied a part of the ancient dominions 6f the Gordian 
 dynasty ; are all proofs that the banks of the Sangarius were the cen- 
 tral parts of their dominion, and consequently that the valley of Do- 
 ganlu, which lies between the Sangarius and one of its principal 
 branches, the Thymbrius, was exactly in the part of the country which 
 the dominions of that dynasty must have included. According to this 
 supposition, the date of the monument of Doganlu is between the 
 years 740 and 570 before the Christian Eera ; for that such was nearly 
 the period of the Gordian dynasty appears from Herodotus j:, who in- 
 forms us that Midas, son of Gordius, was the first of the Barbarians 
 who sent offerings to Delphi, and that his offerings were earlier than 
 those of Gyges, king of Lydia, who began his reign B. C. 715. 
 
 ♦Attic, c. 4. fP. 571. FAus.tb. 
 
 X Herod. 1. I. c. 14. Euscbius places the beginning of the reign of this Midas in the 
 fourth year ot the tenth Olympiad, or 7.>7 B- C. 
 
 * EE 3
 
 214 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Phrygia lost its independence, when all the country to the west ot" the 
 Haljs was subdued by Crcesus, king of Lydia, in or about the year 
 572 B. C. A few years afterwards Atys, son of Croesus, was killed 
 accidentally by Adraslus, who was of the royal family of Phrygia, and 
 son of Gordius, son of Midas. * This last Gordius, therefore, seems 
 to have been the king of Phrygia, who was rendered tributary to 
 ( Toesus ; and as he was son of a Midas, and the first Midas was son 
 of a Gordius, it seems probable that the monarchs of Phrygia, during 
 the two centuries of their independence, had borne those names alter- 
 )iatelv, from father to son, according to a custom which has been 
 common in all nations and ages of the world. 
 
 As we are quite ignorant how many monarchs of independent 
 Phrygia there may have been, it will be impossible to determine to 
 which of them, or to what period in the two centuries of their inde- 
 pendence, the monument of Doganlu is to be ascribed, unless some 
 further elucidation of the inscriptions should be obtained. 
 
 Close by this magnificent relic of Phrygian art is a very large se- 
 pulchral chamber and portico, of two columns, excavated out of the 
 same reddish sandstone of which the great monument and other 
 rocks are formed. The columns have a plain plinth at the top, and 
 are surmounted by a row of dentils along the architrave. They are 
 of a tapering form, which, together with the general proportions of 
 the woi'k, give it an appearance of the Doric order, although, in fact, 
 it contains none of the distinctive attributes of that order. It is an 
 exact resemblance of the cottages still in use in this country, which 
 are square frames of wood-work, having a portico supported by two 
 posts made broader at either end. The sepulchral chambers differ only 
 in having their parts more accurately finished ; the dentils correspond 
 to the ends of the beams, supporting the flat roof of the cottage. 
 
 I cannot quit the subject of this interesting valley without express- 
 
 * Herod. 1.1. c.35.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 215 
 
 ing a wish that future travellers, who may cross Asia jNlinor by the 
 routes of Eski-Shehr or Kutaya, will employ a day or two in a more 
 complete examination of it, than circumstances allowed to us ; as it is 
 far from improbable that some inaccuracy or omission may have oc- 
 curred in the inscriptions, from the singularity of the characters, the 
 great height of one of the inscriptions above the ground, and the 
 short time that was allowed us for transcribing and revisino- it. 
 "•-After leaving the great sculptured rock, we follow the valley for a 
 short distance, then pass through a wild woody country, meeting 
 scarcely any traces of habitations till we reach our Konak, at the little 
 village which is called from the Khan, built there by a Pasha of the 
 name of Kosru, where we arrive at five in the eveninii, havino-, ac- 
 cording to our calculation, made a circuit of nine or ten miles more 
 than the direct distance from Seid-el-Ghazi. We had a sharp shower 
 of hail as we galloped through the wood, but the weather soon 
 cleared again. 
 
 Jan. 28. — From Kosru Khan to Bulwudun, twelve hours. We 
 rose at two in the morning ; the baggage set off at five ; ourselves at 
 six : the weather still clear. The road lay through several small 
 woody valleys, in one of which, at ten or twelve miles from Kosru 
 Khan, we saw near a fountain several inscribed stones ; the annexed 
 is the only inscription I could decypher ; 
 
 AHMAEKAI 
 
 rAiocrnEP 
 
 BOaiNIAIojNnA 
 niAAI . . lEwTH 
 PIETXHNKAI 
 HPAKAHANIK 
 HT. 
 
 It appears to be a dedication of thanks to Jupiter Papias, the Saviour, 
 and Hercules, the Invincible, for the care of the oxen of Demas and 
 Caius. Both these names occur also in the writings of the New 
 Testament ; the latter is the more common appellation of the two : 
 a person who bore that name, and belonged to Derbe, was a member
 
 216 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 of one of the churches in Lycaonia* ; and Demas sends his salutation 
 to the Christians of Colosse.f 
 
 The inscription we copied is upon a flat slab, surmounted with a 
 pediment, in the middle of which is a caput bovis, with a festoon. 
 Another large stone was a square stele, surmounted with an orna- 
 mented cornice ; on one side was an obliterated inscription, in the 
 center of a garland. Towards the latter part of our journey, the road 
 lay across a ridge of hills, with a fine soil, containing a few cultivated 
 patches of ground, but for the most part overgrown with brushwood ; 
 at intervals we saw a kw flocks of sheep and goats, and in one place a 
 large herd of horned cattle. We saw many sepulchral chambers ex- 
 cavated in the rocks, some of which were ornamented in the exterior ; 
 others were plain. In several parts of our route, also, were ap- 
 pearances of extensive quarries, from some of which was probably 
 extracted the celebrated Phrygian marble, called Synnadicus, or Doci- 
 mitis, from the places where it was found. 
 
 This marble was so much esteemed that it was carried to X Italy, 
 and such was the force of fashion or prejudice, that Hadrian placed 
 columns of it in his new buildings at Athens §, where the surrounding 
 mountains abound in the finest marble. At about ten miles from 
 Bulwudun we came in sight of that town with a lake beyond it, to 
 the southward of which was the high range of mountains called 
 Sultan-dagh, and parallel to it, on the northern side of the plain of 
 Bulwudun, Emir-dagh. 
 
 From hence we descended by a long slope to Eulwudun, which is 
 situated in the plain. It is a place of considerable size, but consists 
 chiefly of miserable cottages. There are many remains of antiquity 
 lying about the streets, and around the town, but they appeared to 
 be chiefly of the time of the Constantinopolitan empire. At Bul- 
 wudun we had to make choice of two roads to the coast ; one leading 
 
 * Macknight, Epist. 3 John. Preface. f Coloss. iv. 14. 
 
 i Strabo, p. 577. § Paus. Att. c. 18.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 217 
 
 to Satalia, the other, by Konia and Karaman, to Kelenderi. We 
 prefer the latter on account of the uncertainty of the long passage by 
 sea from Satalia to Cyprus at this season of the year ; and we are in- 
 formed that all the Grand Vizier's Tatars now take the Konia road. 
 
 Jan. 29. — From Bulwudun to Ak-shehr, eleven hours. For the 
 first two hours the road traversed the plain which lies between Bul- 
 wudun and the foot of Sultan-dagh, crossing near the latter by a long 
 causeway, a marshy tract, through the middle of which runs a consi- 
 derable stream. It comes from the plains and open country, which 
 extend on our right as far as Afiom Karahissar, and joins the lake 
 which occupies the central and lowest part of the plain lying between 
 the parallel ranges of Sultan-dagh and Emir-dagh. Our road con- 
 tinues in a S. E. direction along the foot of Sultan-dagh ; it is perfectly 
 level and, owing to the dry weather, in excellent condition. On our 
 left were the lake and pl^ns already mentioned. The ground was 
 ev-ery where covered with frost, and the hills on either side of the 
 valley with snow ; but these appearances of winter vanished as the 
 day advanced, and from noon till three P. iNI.-the sun was warmer 
 than we found agreeable ; our faces being exposed to it by that most 
 inconvenient head-dress, the Tatar Kalpak. Our Surigis (postillions) 
 wore a singular kind of cloak of white camels' hair felt, half an inch 
 thick, and so stiff that the cloak stands without support when set up- 
 right upon the ground. There are neither sleeves nor hood ; but 
 only holes to pass .the hands through, and projections like wings upon 
 the shoulders for the purpose of turning off the rain. It is of the 
 manufacture of the country. At the end of six hours we passed 
 through Saakle or Isaklu, a' large village surrounded with gardens and 
 orchards in the midst of a small region well watered by streams from 
 Sultan-dagh, and better cultivated than any place we have seen since 
 we left the vicinity of Isnik and Lefke. Yet the Aga of Isaklu is 
 said to be in a state of rebellion ; and this is not the first instance we 
 have seen of places in such a state being more flourishing than others ; 
 whence we cannot but suspect that there is a connection in this em- 
 pire between the prosperity of a district and the ability of its chieftain 
 
 VOL. II. F F
 
 218 "ASIA MINOR. 
 
 to resist the orders of the Porte. This is nothing more than the 
 natural consequence of their well known policy of making frequent 
 changes of provincial governors, who purchasing their governments 
 at a high price are obliged to practise every kind of extortion to re- 
 imburse themselves, and secure some profit at the expiration of their 
 command. It seems that the Aga of Isaklu having a greater share of 
 prudence and talents than usually falls to the lot of a Turk in office, 
 has so strengthened himself that the Porte does not think his re- 
 duction worth the exertion that would be required to effect it, and is, 
 therefore, contented with the moderate revenue which we are told he 
 regularly remits to Constantinople. In the meantime he has become 
 so personally interested in the prosperity of the place, that he finds it 
 more to his advantage to govern it well than to enrich himself rapidly 
 by the oppressive system of the other provincial governors. The 
 territory of Isaklu contains several dependent villages in which fer- 
 tility is insured by the streams descending from Sultan-dagh. We 
 observe a greater quantity and variety of fruit-trees than in any place 
 in Asia Minor we have yet visited. Their species are the same as 
 those which grow in the middle latitudes of Europe, as apples, pears, 
 walnuts, quinces, peaches, grapes ; no figs, olives, or mulberries. * The 
 climate, therefore, though now so mild, and exposed undoubtedly to 
 excessive heat in summer, is not warmer upon the whole than the 
 interior of Greece and Italy. 
 
 We follow the level grounds at the foot of Sultan-dagh until we 
 come in sight of Ak-shehr (white city), a large town, situated, like 
 Isaklu, on the foot of the mountains, and furnished with the same 
 natural advantages of a fertile soil, and a plentiful supply of water. It 
 is surrounded with many pleasant gardens, but in other respects 
 exhibits the usual Turkish characteristics of extensive burying- 
 grounds, narrow dirty streets, and ruined mosques and houses. At 
 a small distance from the western entrance of the town we pass the 
 
 * Strabo, however, informs us that anciently it bore olives; he describes the plain of 
 Synnada as IXa/ocfurov ttsSiov.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 219 
 
 sepulchre of Noureddin Hogia, a Turkish saint, whose tomb is the . 
 object of a Mussulman pilgrimage. It is a stone monument of the 
 usual form, surrounded by an open colonnade supporting a roof; the 
 columns have been taken from some ancient Greek buildino;. The 
 burying-ground is full of remains of Greek architecture converted 
 into Turkish tombstones, and it furnishes ample proof of Ak-shehr 
 having been the position of a Greek city of considerable importance. 
 The only apartment our Konakgi could procure for us at Ak-shehr 
 was a ruinous chamber in the JNlenzil-hane (post-house) ; and the Aga 
 sending insolent messages in return to our remonstrances, we resolve, 
 though at the end of a long day's journey, upon setting out imme- 
 diately for the next stage. While the horses are preparing, we eat 
 our Kebab in the burying-ground, and take shelter from the cold of 
 the evening in the tent of some camel-drivers, who were enjoying their 
 pipes and coffee over a fire. On our arrival, we observed the people 
 fortifying their town, by erecting one of the simplest gates that was 
 ever constructed for defence. It consisted of four uprights of fir, 
 supporting a platform covered with reeds, in front of which was a 
 breastwork of mud-bricks with a row of loop-holes. These gates 
 and a low mud-wall are the usual fortifications of the smaller Asiatic 
 towns. In one place we saw the gates standing alone (honoris causa) 
 without any wall to connect them. 
 
 The lake of Ak-shehr is not close to the town as D'Anville has 
 marked it on his map ; but at a distance of six or eight miles : it 
 communicates by a stream with that of Bulwudun, and after a season 
 of rain, when these lakes are very much increased in size, they form 
 a continued piece of water, thirty or forty miles in length. It is pro- 
 bable that D'Anville was equally mistaken in placing Antioch of 
 Pisidia at Ak-shehr: for if Sultan-dagh is the Phrygia Paroria of 
 Strabo, as there is reason to believe, Antioch should, according to the 
 same authority, be on the south side of that ridge ; whereas Ak-shehr 
 is on the north. 
 
 At six in the evening we set out from Ak-shehr, and at one in the 
 morning of January 30. arrived at Arkut-khan : our pace was much 
 
 F F 2
 
 220 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 slower than by day. The road lay over the same open level 
 country as before, and towards the latter part of the route, over some 
 higher undulations of ground, which separate the waters running into 
 the lake of Ak-shehr from those which flow into the lake of Ilgun. 
 The weather was frosty and clear, but very dark after eleven o'clock, 
 when the moon set. Several of our party then became so oppressed 
 by sleep as to find it difficult to save themselves from falling from 
 the horses. After two or three hours' repose at Arkut-khan, we 
 pursue our route for three hours to Ilgun, a large but wretched 
 village, containing some scattered fragments of antiquity, where we 
 procure some eggs and Kaimak (boiled cream) for breakfast, and then 
 continue our route to Ladik. Since we left Ak-shehr, the loftier 
 summits of the range of Sultan-dagh have appeared to recede from 
 our direction towards the S. E., and our route has continued through 
 the same wide uncultivated champaign, intersected by a few ridges, 
 and by torrents running from Sultan-dagh to the lakes in the plain. 
 At two hours is a more cons-iderable stream, crossed by a bridge, and 
 discharging itself into the lake of Ilgun. Six hours beyond Ilgun we 
 pass through the large village of Kadun-kiui, or Kanun-hana, said to 
 consist of 1000 houses, and three hours farther we come to Yorgan- 
 Ladik, or Ladik-el-Tchaus, another large place famous throughout 
 Asia Minor for its manufacture of carpets ; and advantageously 
 situated in a well watered district, among some low hills to the north- 
 ward of which lies a very extensive plain. 
 
 Our road throughout the open country we have passed has been 
 wide, well beaten, fit for any carriage, and owing to the late dry 
 weather in an excellent state. We continue to enjoy a sky without 
 a cloud : there is generally a slight breeze from the east in the day : 
 in the afternoon the sun is hot ; and at night the sky is perfectly 
 calm and clear with a sharp frost, which in the shaded places generally 
 continues to a late hour in the afternoon.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 221 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Remains of the antient Laodiceia. — Jiemarkahle Appearance of the Mountain Karadanh. 
 
 Clearness of the Atmosphere. — Konia. — T^isit to the Pasha. — Palaces — Mode of 
 
 Reception. — Walls of Konia. — Produce of the Countiy around. — Maimfactwcs. 
 
 Sepulchre of the Founder of the Order of the Mevlevi Dervishes, — Number of Persons of 
 
 this Order of Monks. — Illustration of the Geography of this Part of Asia Minor. 
 
 Plain of Konia. — Tchumra. — Manners of the Inhabitants. — Kassabd. — Karaman. 
 
 Itsh-il. — Probable Site of Li/stra and Derbe. — Cilicia Trachceoti^s. — Comparative Rate 
 of Travelling of the Horse and the Camel. — Ascent of Mount Taurus. — Numcroiis Ex- 
 cavations in the Rock made in ancient Times for the Purposes of Sejmlture, — Mout. 
 
 The plains between Arkut-Khan and Ladik are traversed by several 
 low stony ridges, and by streams running towards the lake of Ilgun. 
 The country is bare and open ; not a tree nor inclosure was to be 
 seen, nor any appearance of cultivation, except in small patches 
 around a few widely scattered villages. The country to our right 
 forms the district of Dogan-hissar, a town belonging to the Sangiac 
 of Ak-shehr. To the left is seen the continuation of the series of 
 long narrow lakes which began near Bulwudun : they receive the 
 torrents running from the surrounding mountains, and are greatly 
 enlarged in winter, but in summer are entirely dried up. 
 
 Jan. 31. — From Ladik to Konia, nine hours ; the road excellent, 
 and weather very fine; the sun even scorching, and much too 
 glaring for our exposed eyes. At Ladik we saw more numerous 
 fragments of antient architecture and sculpture than at any other 
 place upon oar route. Inscribed marbles, altars, columns, capitals, 
 frizes, cornices, were dispersed throughout the streets and among the 
 houses and burying-grounds ; the remains of Laodicea ;caTa«£;4au^£j/>;y 
 antiently the most considerable city of tliis part of the country. At 
 less than an hour's distance from the town, on the way to Konia, we 
 met with a still greater number of remains of the same kind, and 
 copied one or two sepulchral inscriptions of the date of the Roman 
 empire. The following fragment appears to be part of an hnpre-
 
 222 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 cation against any person who should violate the tomb upon which it 
 is inscribed. 
 
 TON iScoMON AAIKHCei 
 H KAI nePl TON TA* 
 ONTI OP*ANA TeKNAAinOI 
 
 TON XHPON BION OIKONE 
 PHMON 
 
 Soon after we had quitted this spot, we entered upon a ridge branch- 
 ing northwards from the great mountains on our right, and forming 
 the western boundary of the plain of Konia. On the descent from 
 this ridge we come in sight of the vast plains around that city, and of 
 the lake which occupies the middle of them, and we saw the city with 
 its mosques and antient walls, still at the distance of 12 or 14 miles 
 from us. To the north-east nothing appeared to interrupt the vast 
 expanse * but two very lofty summits covered with snow, at a great 
 distance. They can be no other than the summits of Mount Argaeus 
 above Kesarm, and are, consequently, distant from us, in a direct lines 
 more than 150 miles. To the south-east the same plains extend as 
 far as the mountains of Karaman, which to the south of the plains of 
 Konia are connected with the mountains of Khatoun-serai, on the 
 other side of which lies Bey-shehr and the country of the antient 
 Isaurians ; and these bending westward in the neighbourhood of 
 Konia form a continuous range with the ridge of Sultan-dagh, of 
 which we have been followino; the direction ever since we left Bui- 
 wudun. At the south-east extremity of the plains beyond Konia we are 
 much struck with the appearance of a remarkable insulated mountain, 
 called Karadagh (black mountain), rising to a great height, covered 
 at the top with snow, and appearing like a lofty island in the midst 
 
 * The immense extent of some of these plains and pastures of Asia mentioned in this 
 journal illustrate well the Magnittidiimn Pastionis in the following passage of Cicero. 
 Asia tarn opima est et fertilis, ut et ubertate agrorum et diversitate fructuum et Magni- 
 tudine Pastionis et multitudine earum reruni quae exportantur facile omnibus terris ante- 
 cellat. Pro lege Man. — E.
 
 ASIA" MINOR. 223 
 
 of the sea. It is about sixty miles distant, and beyond it are seen 
 some of the summits of the Karaman rauge, which cannot be less 
 than ninety miles from us ; yet it is surprising with what distinct- 
 ness the form of the ground and of the woods is seen in this clear 
 atmosphere. As far as I have observed, the air is much more trans- 
 parent in a fine winter's day in this climate than it is in summer, when, 
 notwithstanding the breeze of wind which blows, there is generally a 
 haze in the horizon, caused probably by the constant stream of vapour 
 which rises from the earth. The situation of the town of Karaman 
 is pointed out to us exactly in the line of our route, a little to the 
 right of IMount Karadagh. After descending into the plain we move 
 rapidly over a road made for wheel-carriages ; the first we have met 
 with since we left the neighbourhood of Skutari. 
 
 At Konia we are comfortably accommodated in the house of a 
 Christian, belonging to the Greek church, but who is ignorant of the 
 language, which here is not even used in the church-service : they 
 have the four Gospels and the Prayers printed in Turkish. At the 
 head of their community is a Metropolitan bishop, who has several 
 dependent churches in the adjacent towns. As it is now the moon 
 Ramazan, when the Turks neither take nourishment nor receive visits 
 till after sunset, we are obliged to defer our visit to the Governor of 
 Konia till the evening. He is a Pasha of three tails, but inferior in 
 rank to the Governor of Kutaya, who has the title of Anadol-Beo-ler- 
 beg, or Anadol-Valesi, and who has the chief command of all the 
 Anatolian troops when they join the Imperial camp. Our visit, as 
 usual among the Turks, was first to the Kiaya, or Deputy, and after- 
 wards to the Pasha. The entrance into the court of the Serai was 
 striking ; portable fires of pinewood placed in a grating fixed upon a 
 pole, and stuck into the ground, were burning in every part of the 
 court-yard; a long line of horses stood ready saddled; attendants in 
 their gala-clothes were seen moving about in all directions, and trains 
 of servants, with covered dishes in their hands, showed that the nifirht 
 of a Turkish fast is a feast. The building has little in unison with 
 these appearances of gaiety and magnificence, being a low shabby
 
 224 
 
 ASIA MmOR. 
 
 wooden edifice, with ruinous galleries and half-broken window frames ; 
 but it stands upon the site of the palace of the antient sultans of 
 Iconium, and contains some few remains of massy and elegant Arabic 
 architecture, of an early date. The inside of the building seemed not 
 much better than the exterior, with the exception of the Pasha's 
 audience-chamber, which was splendidly furnished with carpets and 
 sofas, and filled with a great number of attendants in costly dresses. 
 Both the Pasha and the deputy, in the previous visit, received us with 
 haughtiness and formality, though with civility. The Pasha promised 
 to send forward to Karaman for horses to be ready to carry us to the 
 coast, and to give us a travelling order for Konaks upon the road. 
 After passing through the usual ceremony of coffee, sweetmeats, 
 sherbet, and perfumes, which in a Turkish visit of ceremony are well 
 known to follow in the order here mentioned, we return to our lodg- 
 ing. Nothing can exceed the greediness of the Pasha's attendants 
 for Bakshish. Some accompany us home with Mashallahs (the torches 
 above mentioned), and others with silver wands. Soon after our re- 
 turn to our lodgings we are visited by a set of the Pasha's musicians, 
 who seem very well to understand that after our fatigues we shall be 
 very glad to purchase their absence at a handsome price ; but no sooner 
 are they gone than another set make their appearance ; the Kahwegi, 
 the Tutungi, and a long train of Tchokadars ; and these being suc- 
 ceeded by people of the town, who come simply to gratify their curi- 
 osity, it is not till a late hour that we are at liberty to retire to rest. 
 
 The circumference of the walls of Konia is between two and three 
 miles, beyond which are suburbs not much less populous than the 
 town itself. The walls strong and lofty, and flanked with square 
 towers, which at the gates are built close together, are of the time of 
 the Seljukian kings, who seem to have taken considerable pains to 
 exhibit the Greek inscriptions, and the remains of architecture and 
 sculpture belonging to the antient Iconium, which they made use of 
 in building their walls. We perceived a great number of Greek 
 altars, inscribed stones, columns, and other fragments inserted into the 
 fabric, which is still in tolerable preservation throughout the whole
 
 ASIA MINOR. 225 
 
 extent. None of the Greek remains that I saw seemed to be of a 
 very remote period, even of the Roman Empire. We observed in 
 several places Greek crosses, and figures of lions, of a rude sculpture ; 
 and on all of the conspicuous parts of the walls and towers, Arabic 
 inscriptions, apparently of very early date. The town, suburbs, and 
 gardens around are plentifully supplied with water from streams, 
 flowing from some hills to the westward, which to the north-eastward 
 join a lake varying in size according to the season of the year. We 
 are informed that after great rains, and the breaking up of the snows 
 upon the surrounding mountains, the lake is swollen with immense in- 
 undations, which spread over the great plains to the eastward for near 
 fifty miles. At present there is not the least appearance of any such 
 inundation, the usual autumnal rains having failed, and the whole 
 country labouring under a severe drought. The gardens of Konia 
 abound with the same variety of fruit trees, which we remarked in 
 those of Isaklu and Ak-shehr ; and the country around supplies grain 
 and flax in great abundance. In the town they manufacture carpets, 
 and they tan and dye blue and yellow leather. Cotton, wool, hides, 
 and a few of the other raw materials which enrich the superior in- 
 dustry and skill of the manufactures of Europe, are sent to Smyrna 
 by the caravans. The low situation of the town and the vicinity of 
 the lake seem not to promise much for the salubrity of Konia ; but we 
 lieard no complaint on this head ; and as it has in all ages been well 
 inhabited, these apparent disadvantages are probably corrected by the 
 dryness of the soil, and the free action of the winds over the sur- 
 rounding levels. The most remarkable buildijig in Konia is the tomb 
 of a saint, highly revered all over Turkey, called Hazret JNIevlana, the 
 founder of the JMevlevi Dervishes. His sepulchre, which is the 
 object of a Mussulman pilgrimage, is surmounted by a dome, standing 
 upon a cylindrical tower of a bright green colour. The city, like all 
 those renowned for superior sanctity, abounds with Dervishes, who 
 meet the passenger at every turning of the streets, and demand paras 
 with the greatest clamour and insolence. Some of them pretend to be 
 ideots, and are hence considered as entitled to peculiar respect, or 
 
 VOL. II. G G
 
 226 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 at least indulgence. The bazars and houses have little to recommend 
 them to notice. 
 
 Before we pursue our route from Konia it may be right to offer a 
 few remarks upon the situation of the ancient places on the road from 
 Eski-shehr to Konia. Of two of these there can be little doubt. The 
 modern name of Ladik is decisive of its being upon the site of 
 Laodiceia Combusta, and the sound of TIoXvCutov as pronounced by 
 the modern Greeks so nearly resembles that of Bulwudiin, especially 
 as the accents in both are the same, that there can be little doubt of 
 the latter name being the Turkish corruption of the former. The 
 position of Bulwudun, moreover, agrees perfectly with that ascribed to 
 Polybotum in the narrative of Anna Comnena *, where the name 
 occurs. Polybotum, however, is mentioned only in the history of 
 the Lower Empire, and although from the 6th to the 12th century it 
 appears to have been with Philomelium and Iconium the chief place 
 of these vast plains f, its name is not found in the earlier periods of 
 history, when Synnada, Philomelium, and Iconium seem to have been 
 the principal places. ^. The position of Polybotum affords us no 
 assistance, therefore, in tracing the other ancient places on the main 
 route between Doryljeum and Laodiceia. 
 
 Of these places the most important to determine is Synnada, which 
 indeed is in some measure the key to the ancient geography of the 
 central parts of Asia Minor. It appears from the Theodosian tables 
 that Synnada was on the great road from Dorylaeum to Iconium by 
 Laodiceia Combusta, and from Livy that Synnada was in the way 
 from the neighbourhood of Apameia Cibotus towards the frontiers of 
 Galatia. The crossing of these two hues will fall not far from the 
 modern Bulwudun, as sufficiently appears from the route of Pococke 
 in his way from the upper valley of the Maeander to Amorium and 
 Ancyra. It may safely be concluded, therefore, that the extensive 
 quarries which we saw on the road from Khosru-khan to Bulwudun 
 
 =* 
 
 L. xi. c. 4, 5. L. XV. c. 5. f Procop. Hist. Ar. c. 18. Anna Com. ib. 
 
 % Cicero ad Att. 1. v. ep. 20. ad Divers. 1. iii. ep. 8.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 227 
 
 indicate the vicinity of Synnada and Docimia, for these two places were 
 only sixty stades apart, and were equally famous for their marble. 
 •: I Santabaris, a place of the Lower Empire, from whence Alexius 
 Comnenus * is mentioned to have sent detachments of his army 
 against the Turks, in one direction towards Polybotum, and in the 
 other towards Poemanene and Amorium, seems to have been at Seid- 
 el-Ghazi. 
 
 Though the proportionate distances do not exactly agree with the 
 numbers in the Theodosian tables, it may be inferred from the re- 
 mains of antiquity at Ak-shehr and Ilgun, that these were the Jullae 
 and Philomelium mentioned in the itinerary. Strabo describes Philo- 
 melium as being in a plain on the north side of the hills of Phryo-ia 
 Paroreia ; his description f of which region agrees exactly with Sultan- 
 dagh ; and it appears from the narrative of Anna Comnena J that 
 the territory of Philomelium was at no great distance from that of 
 Iconium ; for as soon as the Emperor Alexius had taken Philomelium 
 from the Turks, his troops spread themselves over the latter territory. 
 The lake of the Forty jNIartyrs mentioned in this narrative corre- 
 sponds also with that of Ilgiin, so that it will probably be found that 
 Ilgun stands upon the site of Philomelium. 
 
 Jullae in the Theodosian tables seems to be a false writine for 
 Julia, a name which became so common in every part of the Roman 
 world under the Caesars ; and it may also be the same place as the 
 Juliopolis placed by Ptolemy § in the part of the country where stood 
 Synnada, Philomelium, &c. But if Ak-shehr was Julia, there can be 
 little doubt that so fine a situation was likewise occupied by some 
 
 • Anna Com. 1. xv. c. 4. 
 
 f H /U.SV Yla-fiaofix o^sivijy riva e^si foi'xiv aito T^f avaroX^f sxTsivofts'vjj Trpoj Sutriv TaiJri; Se 
 kxarsptoisv uroTETTcoxe ti tteSiov fisya xa.) iroKi; TrXrjcriov auras' ■jrpic apxTOv ftiv ^iXojjii^Kiovy ex 
 ixTsptti 8= (ispov; 'AvTio;^=ia, ij Trpo; JTiirfSia xaXou/xs'iT!, ^ ftsv ev tTsSiuj xnfj-ivr), »j S" sm Xofou, 
 sj^ou(ra anoixlav 'Poj/xaioiv. It is evident from this passage how greatly the discovery of 
 Antioch of Pisidia would assist the comparative geography of all the adjacent country. 
 
 t L. XV. c. 5. § L. V. c. 2. 
 
 GG 2
 
 22g ASIA MINOR. 
 
 earlier city *, which on its being repaired or re-established may have 
 assumed the new name of Julia or Juliopolis. 
 
 Of the cities mentioned by Xenophon f , on the route of Cyrus, 
 through Phrygia into Lycaonia, Tyriaeum and Iconium are the only 
 two which occur in later authors. Tyriaeum is named both by Strabo 
 and Hierocles, and appears from the former | to have been between 
 Philomelium and Iconium, consequently at no great distance from 
 Laodiceia. 
 
 The hills which bound the plain of Iconium on the north, seem to 
 be those naked downs of Lycaonia mentioned by Strabo. § The 
 highest part of them is now called the mountain of Sheik Fudul Baba. 
 I did not hear of the wild asses which Strabo mentions, but the want 
 of water is noticed by Hadgi Khalfa, who, in confirmation of Strabo's 
 observation on the fineness of the sheep pastures, adds that there is 
 
 * Major Rennell thinks it was Caystrus. 
 
 t The following was the route of Cyrus, according to Xenophon : — 
 
 Stathmi. Farasangs. 
 From Celffinas, afterwards Apameia Cibotus, to Peltae, - 2 or 10 
 Ceramorum Agora, at the end of Mysia, - - - 2 — 12 
 
 Caystri Campus (a city), - - - - -3 — 30 
 
 Thymbrium, where was the fountain of Midas, - - 2 — 10 
 
 Tyriaeum, - - - - -2 — 10 
 
 Iconium, - - - - - --3 — 20 
 
 Through Lycaonia - - - - -5 — 30 
 
 Through Cappadocia to Dana (Tyana), - - - 4 — 25 
 
 Total parasangs, ----- 92 
 
 In Major Rennell's work on the retreat of the Ten thousand, the reader will see the ex- 
 treme difficulty of fixing the places on this route. Indeed there seems no mode of recon- 
 ciling it with other geographical authorities than by supposing great errors in the numbers ; 
 for it is difficult to believe that the plain of the Caystrus is not the same as that placed by 
 Strabo (p. 629.) to the east of Mount Tmolus, or that Thymbrium, where was the fountain 
 of Midas, was not upon the river Thymbrius, that being exactly the situation of the do- 
 minions of Midas, and not the plains between Ak-shehr and Ilgun, where we must place 
 Thymbrium, if we follow the evidence of Xenophon's numbers. 
 
 J (A Caruris) lir) to Trpoc rfi Avxaovta trepcti Tou Tlapuipsiou to Tuf laiov Sia <l»i?iO/xil^tou, 
 f/,ixpu) TrXsiot/j TuJv TTEVTaxotncuv, p. 663. 
 
 § Ta Tuiv Avxaovaiv ogoTrilia ^u^pa xai \|/(Xa xai ivaygoBoTci' uSartov re g-irivi; wo\y.rj, 
 -------- o/xtuj 8s xaiirsg avuSgOf oica, r] yijqa. irgoSaTa hxT^i^ei 6ct'JiJLa(7Tu)(, 
 
 — Strabo, p. 568.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 229 
 
 a breed of wild sheep on these mountains, which are considered sacred 
 to the saint from whom the mountain takes its name. 
 
 Feb. 1. — Our journey of this day is from Konia to Tchumra, 
 reckoned a six hours' stage. We have remarked that since leaving 
 Ak-sher the post-horses are of an inferior kind. They are larger and 
 not well formed, often broken knee'd, and frequently falling, which 
 seldom happened in the first part of our journey. Those supplied 
 from Konia for this day's journey are very indifferent, and we did not 
 get them till ten o'clock, nor till after we had paid some high fees to 
 the post-master and Tatar-aga. The plain of Konia is considered the 
 largest in Asia Minor ; our road pursues a perfect level for upwards 
 of twenty miles, and is in excellent order for travelling. In such 
 roads the journey, even with loaded horses, may be performed in two- 
 thirds of the computed time. A rough kind of two-wheeled carriage, 
 drawn by oxen or buffaloes, is used in this plain. It runs upon 
 trucks, ingeniously formed of six pieces of solid wood, three in the 
 center, and three on the outside, the outer joints falling opposite to 
 the center of the inner pieces, and the whole kept together by an iron 
 felloe, and by fastenings connecting the outer pieces with the inner. 
 
 Tchumra is a small village with a scanty cultivation around it. We 
 are lodged in a Turk's cottage, consisting of two apartments on the 
 same floor, and separated only by a rail, and two or three steps. The 
 largest of the two is for his horse ; the other is occupied by the passage 
 into the stable, and a small raised apartment, in which is just sufficient 
 breadth for the fire-place, and a sofa on either side of it. This is the 
 whole of his habitation, and here we are just able to find room enough 
 to lie down at night. 
 
 Feb. 2. — From Tchumra to Kassaba, nine hours, over the same 
 uninterrupted level of the finest soil, but quite uncultivated, except in 
 the immediate neighbourhood of a few widely dispersed villages. It 
 is painful to behold such desolation in the midst of a region so highly 
 favoured by nature. Another characteristic of these Asiatic plains is 
 the exactness of the level, and the peculiarity of their extending, 
 without any previous slope, to the foot of the mountains which rise
 
 230 
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 from them, like lofty islands out of the surface of the ocean. The 
 Karamanian ridge seems to recede as we approach it, and the snowy 
 summits of Argaeus are still seen to the north-eastward. We passed 
 only one small village in this day's route. It was called Alibey Kiui, 
 and was situated at one hour's distance short of Kassaba. We ob- 
 served, however, some ruins of villages, and in several places frag- 
 ments of antient architecture, particularly about half way, at a bridge 
 constructed almost entirely of such remains, which traverses a small 
 stream running from the mountain on the south to the lake of Konia. 
 At three or four miles short of Kassaba, we are abreast of the middle 
 of the very lofty insulated mountain already mentioned, called Kara- 
 dagh. It is said to be chiefly inhabited by Greek Christians, and to 
 contain 1001 churches ; but we afterwards learned that these 1001 
 churches (Bin-bir Klissa) was the name given to the extensive ruins 
 of an antient city at the foot of the mountain. Since we left Konia 
 we have experienced more civility from the inhabitants than before ; 
 a change to be ascribed to our being now upon a less frequented 
 route. On approaching Kassaba, the people met us in great numbers. 
 One person threw a pair of pigeons, with the legs tied together, 
 under the feet of the General's horse ; others wrestle and dance. On 
 arriving at our lodging they bring us presents of water-melons, dried 
 o-rapes, and other fruits. Kassaba differs from every town we have 
 passed through, in being built of stone instead of sun-baked bricks. 
 It is surrounded with a wall flanked with redans, or angular pro- 
 jections, and having some handsome gates of Saracenic architecture. 
 It has a well supplied bazar, and seems formerly to have been a 
 Turkish town of more importance than it is at present. The dry 
 clear weather which has been so propitious to our travelling, has been 
 vei*y unfavourable to agriculture. At Kassaba we are informed that 
 there has been neither snow nor rain for two months, and that the 
 drought is very distressing. Khatun-serai is four hours to the west- 
 ward of Kassaba, in a pleasant situation in the mountains. 
 
 Feb. 3. — From Kassaba to Karaman, four hours : the weather cool 
 and overcast ; the road still passing over a plain, which towards the
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 231 
 
 mountains begins to be a little intersected with low ridges and 
 ravines. At one hour from Kassaba we pass on the outside of 
 lUisera, a small town with low walls and towers, built of mud-bricks, 
 and situated upon a rising ground half a mile from the foot of the 
 mountains to the southward. Between these mountains and Kara- 
 dagh there is a kind of strait, which forms the communication be- 
 tween the plain of Karaman and the great levels lying eastward of 
 Konia. Having passed this opening we enter the plain of Karaman. 
 Our course from Konia has been more southerly than it was before 
 we reached that town, or upon an average S. by E. i E. by compass. 
 We are told that the mountains above Illisera produce madder in 
 great abundance, partly used in the dyeing manufactories of Konia, 
 and partly sent to Smyrna. Tlie plain of Karaman and the foot of 
 the surrounding mountains are in general well cultivated ; and as they 
 present a more bounded prospect, and are intersected with frequent 
 streams, and varied with swelling groimds, they are much more 
 pleasing and picturesque than the immense unbroken levels we have 
 for so many days been travelling over. 
 
 Advancing towards Karaman I perceive a passage into the plains 
 to the N. W. round the northern end of Kara-dagh, similar to that of 
 Illisera, so that this mountain is completely insulated. We still see 
 to the north-east the great snowy summits of Argaeus. It seems to 
 be the highest point of Asia Minor, and is probably about 6500 feet 
 above the level of the sea. As we approached the town of Karaman 
 two horsemen met us, and conducted us to our Konak, at the house 
 of the Vekil of the Bishop of Iconium, who is at the head of the 
 Christian community of the place. Karaman is situated at a distance 
 of two miles from the foot of the mountains. Its ancient Greek 
 name, Laranda, is still in common use among the Christians, and is 
 even retained in the firmahns of the Porte. The houses, in number 
 about 1000, are separated from one another by gardens, and occupy 
 a large space of ground. There are now only three or four mosques, 
 but the ruins of several others ; and the remains of a castle show that 
 the place was formerly of much greater importance. It was the
 
 232 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 capital of the Turkish kingdom, wliich lasted from the time of the 
 partition of the dominions* of the Seljukian monarchs of Iconium 
 until 1486, when Caramania was reduced by the Ottoman Emperor 
 Bajazet the Second. Karaman derives its name from the first and 
 greatest of its princes, who made himself master of Iconium, Cilicia, 
 Pamphylia, and the interior of Asia Minor from Philadelphia (Alah- 
 shehr) as far southward as Antioch in Syria ; the other chief officers 
 of Aladin seized upon different parts of Asia Minor ; and it was at 
 this time that the great Turkish divisions of Sarakhan, Karasi, and 
 Aidin received their names from those persons. The Ottomans upon 
 obtaining possession of Karaman divided it into Itsh-il, the part 
 towards the sea, and Kharidj, the interior country. These were sub- 
 divided into seven Sandjaya : Iconium became the seat of the Pashalik ; 
 and the decline of Karaman may be dated from that period. The 
 appearance of Karaman indicates poverty. The only manufactures 
 are some coarse cotton and woollen stuffs ; but they send the produce 
 of the surrounding mountains, consisting chiefly of hides, wool, and 
 acorns, used in dyeing, to the neighbouring coasts and to Smyrna. 
 
 The houses are built of sun-baked bricks, with flat roofs. The 
 chimneys being very wide, and much exposed to violent winds from 
 the surrounding mountains, have a trap-door on the top, which may 
 be raised or lowered at pleasure, by means of a cord, communicating 
 throuo-h the roof into the house. The women of Karaman when 
 passing through the streets conceal their faces with unusual care. In 
 the other parts of Asia Minor a veil covering the upper and lower 
 parts of the face has been the utmost we have remarked, but here 1 
 see several women with only a single eye exposed to the view of 
 passengers. The I'est of the person is in the usual shapeless form of 
 Turkish drapery. 
 
 We could not find any Greek remains at Karaman, with the sole 
 exception of a stone in a wall near the entrance of the castle with the 
 words I^oANNHC AOMeCTIKOC upon it. 
 
 • On the death of Aladin the Second, about the year 1300.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 233 
 
 The chief antient towns lying between Iconium and Laranda, were 
 Deibe and Lystra, rendered celebrated by the sacred writer of the 
 Acts of the Apostles. Lystra being ascribed by different authors 
 both to Lycaonia * and to Isauria f , must have been on the frontiers 
 of the two provinces, probably at the foot of the mountain which 
 borders the plain of Laranda on the south-west ; for at these moun- 
 tains we may suppose the rugged region to have commenced. The 
 resemblance of the modern name Illisera to Lystra might lead one to 
 suppose that Lystra was there situated, more especially as in one of the 
 copies of Ptolemy instead of AJo-rpa we find A/o-jpa : but in Hierocles 
 both Lystra and Ilistra are named, so that it seems more probable 
 that Illisera is the latter place, which has preserved its ancient name 
 slightly changed. 
 
 Derbe having been at no great distance from Laranda towards the 
 frontiers of Cappadocia :);, seems to have been about Mount Kara- 
 dagh. The ruins now called the Thousand and One Churches will, 
 perhaps, be found to be those of Derbe ; they have never yet been 
 visited, or at least described, by any modern traveller. Nothing can 
 more strongly show the little progress that has hitherto been made in 
 a knowledge of the geography of Asia Minor, than that of the several 
 cities rendered interesting to us by the journey of St. Paul, the site 
 of one only (Iconium) is yet certainly known ; Perga, Antioch of 
 Pisidia, Lystra, and Derbe remain to be ascertained. 
 
 Feb. 4. — Such is the poverty of Karaman that we cannot procure 
 the number of horses necessary for our party, and are obliged to per- 
 form the remainder of the journey to the coast, reckoned at thirty-six 
 hours, with camels for carrying our baggage, although the intervening 
 track, being almost entirely mountainous, is the kind of country the 
 least adapted to that animal. It requires all this day to procure a 
 
 * 
 
 Act. Apos. c. 14. Hicrocl. Synec. p. 'iJS. f Ptol. I. v. c. 4. 
 
 'AvTiTrarpou Tupavvfiov tou AspSrjTOif Tou S' ifv xou Ta AapavSa. Strabo, p. 369. 
 VOL. II. H H
 
 234 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 sufficiency of camels and horses ; and we are under the necessity of 
 deferring our departure. 
 
 Feb. 5. — The arrival of Captain Lacy from Constantinople pro- 
 duces a further delay this morning, an addition to our cattle being 
 necessary. It was eleven o'clock before we set out from Karaman 
 though we rose at two, and were ready to start at four. At the dis- 
 tance of two or three miles from the town we began to ascend, and 
 entered the mountainous region which extends all the way to the 
 coast, and anciently formed part of the division of Cilicia called 
 Cilicia Trachea, or Tracheotis. Our caravan now consists, besides 
 saddle-horses, of thirteen camels, one of which is laden with pro- 
 visions for the rest. On account of the difficulty of the road, their 
 burthen is light ; they carr_y no more than the usual load of a horse, 
 yet with this light weight they do not move quicker than two miles 
 and a half an hour. They step a yard at a time, and make about 
 seventy-five steps in a minute. The post-horses laden with baggage 
 in the former part of the route moved at the rate of three miles and 
 a half an hour in the plains. Entering the hills we see rocks ex- 
 cavated into a great number of chambers, anciently sepulchral, but 
 now inhabited by peasants and shepherds. As we leave the plains 
 the climate changes. At four hours from Karaman, in the lower 
 reo-ion of the mountains, we pass a village where the snow beginning 
 to fall heavily, and there being no habitation beyond for the next 
 fifteen hours, our guides and attendants are much inclined to remain 
 for the niffht ; but our delay at Karaman makes us impatient to pro- 
 ceed, and we advance four hours further to a Khan in the wildest 
 part of the mountain. During the ascent the road presented some 
 magnificent views of mountain-scenery. We leave on the left a very 
 lofty peaked summit, one of the highest of the range of Taurus, pro- 
 bably between 6 and 7000 feet above the level of the sea. In the 
 lower i-eo-ions of the mountain we passed through woods consisting 
 chiefly of oak, ilex, arbutus, lentisk, and junipers of various species. 
 As we ascend, we enter the region of pines ; and through the latter 
 part of the route do not see a living creature, though we are told that
 
 ASIA MINOR. 235 
 
 the woods abound with deer, wild boars, bears, and wolves. The Khan 
 where we take up our lodging for the night is deserted, and partly in 
 ruins. As we resolve not to unload the camels, they are seated on 
 the outside of the Khan in a ring round the door. We break some 
 branches from the fir-trees, covered with snow, which grow near the 
 Khan, select a part of the building where the roof is still entire, and 
 make a fire on one of the hearths, which are ranged in a line along 
 the inside of the wall. Here we cook some meat which we had 
 brought with us ; and then sleep round the fire till midnight : soon 
 after which we send off our camels in advance, and at six o'clock 
 (Feb. 6.) pursue our journey to Mout, distant eleven hours. The 
 weather is again fine. The road lies over the highest ridges of the 
 mountains, where, amidst the forests of pines, are several beautiful 
 valleys and small plains, forming with the surrounding rocks and 
 woods the most beautiful scenery. Tn several places we trace the 
 footsteps of the wild animals, and observe spots where wild boars 
 have been rooting up the earth. The soil is fertile in the intervals 
 of the woods, and the climate cannot be very severe during the 
 greater part of the year, there being no permanent snow, now in the 
 middle of winter, upon any but the highest summit. There appears, 
 however, no trace of cultivation, though there is ample proof that 
 these mountains were antiently well inhabited, as we meet with 
 scarcely a rock remarkable for its form or position that is not pierced 
 with ancient catacombs. Many of these rocks present at a small dis- 
 tance the exact appearance of towers and castles. At a Khan half 
 way between our last night's Konak and Mout, we begin to descend 
 into the valley where that town is situated. This Khan seems to 
 stand upon the site of an antient temple or other public building, 
 there being many fragments of antient architecture in its walls, and 
 lying around it, and among the latter a handsome Corinthian capital. 
 Not far beyond the Khan we stopped to examine a tall rock which, 
 partly by its natural form, and partly by the effect of art, represented 
 a high tower. At the foot of it was a niche with a semicircular top, 
 the lower part forming a coffin, cut out of the solid rock : the lid of 
 
 H H 2
 
 236 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 this sarcophagus, which is a separate stone, lies at the foot of the 
 rocks ; upon it is the figure of a Hon seated in the middle with a boy 
 at either end ; the boy facing the lion has his foot upon the paw of 
 the animal. The sculpture is much defaced, and the heads have been 
 purposely destroyed. We found also many entire sarcophagi, with 
 their covers ; but they had all been opened ; in some instances by 
 throwing off the covers, in others by forcing a hole through the sides. 
 The usual ornament is the caput bovis with festoons, but some have 
 on one side a defaced inscription on a tablet : on either side of this 
 are ornaments varying on different sarcophagi. We observed on some 
 a garland on one side of the tablet, and a crescent on the other : some 
 had emblenis which seem to refer to the profession of the deceased. 
 These, and all the other monuments of antiquity we have met with, 
 excepting those of Doganlu, are evidently of the time of the Romans. 
 Not far from the spot where we see these remains is the village of 
 Mahile : it is not in view from our road, and may, perhaps, have been 
 the site of the antient town to which the sepulchres belonged. From 
 hence we begin to descend through woods of oaks, beech, and other 
 timber-trees, growing amidst an underwood of arbutus, andrachne, 
 ilex, lentisk, and many other of the shrubs cultivated with so much 
 care in our gardens. As we approach the valley, we meet with the 
 wild olive in considerable quantities, and at length, after a very 
 rugged descent, we enter the valley of Mout. The town and its de- 
 pendant territory are governed by a pasha of two tails, who in this 
 retired and distant situation seems to care little for the oixlers of the 
 Porte, for he laughs at our firmahn, and declares, what the desolate 
 appearance of the place tends to confirm, that he has not a horse or 
 camel to furnish us with ; but he offers us forage for our cattle, and 
 lodging for ourselves. The latter is a ruinous hut in the castle, where 
 we can procure nothing but some coarse barley-bread to add to the 
 meat which we brought with us. The walls of the castle are sur- 
 mounted with battlements, flanked by square towers open to the 
 interior. In the middle is a round tower, cased, as it were, in an- 
 other circular wall, rising to half the height of the tower, and leaving
 
 ASIA MINOR. 237 
 
 a narrow interval between them. * On one side of the castle is a 
 precipice, the foot of which is washed by a river. Mout stands on 
 the site of an ancient city of considerable extent and magnificence. 
 No place we have yet passed preserves so many remains of its former 
 importance, and none exhibits so melancholy a contrast of wretched- 
 ness in its actual condition. Among the ruined mosques and baths, 
 which attest its former prosperity as a Turkish town under the 
 Karamanian kings, a few hovels made of reeds and mud are suffi- 
 cient to shelter its present scanty population. Some of the people 
 we saw living under sheds, and in the caverns of the rocks. Among 
 these Turkish ruins and abodes of misery may be traced the plan 
 of the antient Greek city. Its chief streets and temples, and other 
 public buildings, may be clearly distinguished, and long colonnades 
 and porticoes with the lower parts of the columns in their original 
 places. Pillars of verd-antique, breccia, and other marble, lie halt- 
 buried in different parts, or support the remains of ruined mosques 
 and houses. Most of the inhabitants whom we saw appeared half- 
 naked, and half-starved ; and this in a valley which promises the 
 greatest abundance and fertility, and which is certainly capable of 
 supporting a large population. Its scenery is of the greatest beauty: 
 the variegated pastures, groves, and streams are admirably contrasted 
 with the majestic forms and dark forests of the high mountains on 
 either side : every thing is seen that can be desired to complete the 
 picturesque, unless it be an expanse of water. 
 
 * There is a similar keep at Launceston in Cornwall.
 
 238 ASIA MINOR, 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Departure from Mont. — Branch of the Calt/cadrius. — Sheik Amur. — Striking Appearance 
 of the Scenery of the Countiy. — Approach to the Coast of Caramania. — Gulnar, or 
 Celenderi. — Situation of Olbasa, Philadelphia, and Dio Casureia. — Embark fot 
 Cj/pnis. — Lcfkosia. — Larnaka. — Departure from Cyprus for Satalia. — Anchor at 
 KJiaradra on the Caramanian Coast. — Alaia. — Route of General Koehlcr on his return 
 to Co7ista7itinople through Asia Mino?: — Menovgat. — Dashashehr. — General appear- 
 ance of this Part of the antient Pamphylia. — Satalia {Catarractes). — Karabunar Kini. 
 — Remarkable Pass in the Mountains. — Trhultigchi. — Mafiners of the People. — 
 Climate. — Burdur. — Dombai. — Sandakli. — The River Thymbrius. — Kutaya. — 
 Inoghi. — Artificial Excavations in the Rocks. — Shughut. 
 
 In leaving this place in the morning, (Feb. 7.) we particularly admire 
 the fine effect of the castle with its round and square towers, the pre- 
 cipices with the river below them, the surrounding trees, the antient 
 colonnades, and, among the most remarkable of the modern buildings, 
 an old Turkish mosque with the tomb of Karaman Oglu, its founder. 
 On quitting the town, we pass along the antient road, which led 
 through the cemetery. Sarcophagi stand in long rows on either 
 side, some entire and in their original position ; others thrown down 
 and broken ; the covers of all removed, and in most instances lying 
 beside them. The greater part were adorned with the usual bull's 
 head and festoons, and had a Greek inscription in a tablet on one 
 side. The letters were sufficiently preserved to indicate the date to 
 be that of the Roman Empire, but we searched in vain for the name 
 of the city. 
 
 The journey of this day is from JMout to Sheikh Amur, reckoned 
 12 hours for walking horses, and 18 for camels, the proportion of 
 their movements being nearly as two to three. We had wished to 
 have sent off our camels in the middle of the night, and to have 
 followed in the morning, that we might all have arrived at our 
 journey's end at the same time, but the pasha's language and the
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 239 
 
 vvildness of the country make us think it more advisable to keep 
 together. Another apprehension of more real magnitude is sug- 
 gested by our Tatar, that the drivers, having been forced to go beyond 
 their post, would take some opportunity, unless we should send a 
 sufficient force along with them, of cutting off the baggage, leavino- it 
 on the road, and, perhaps, plundering it, and riding away with the 
 horses. We had risen at three in the morning, but could not with 
 every exertion set out from JNIout before seven ; from which time we 
 continued travelling, without halting, except occasionally for a few 
 minutes, till eleven at night, having during the last two hours pre- 
 ceded the camels which arrived at a little past twelve. For the first 
 two or three hours the road led us along the delightful valley of 
 Mout. A little beyond a small village, around which are some rice 
 grounds, we forded, by the help of guides belonging to the place, a 
 deep and rapid river, called the Kiuk-su (Sky-blue river). The river 
 of Mout is a branch of this stream, and joins it further down the 
 valley. After passing over a level for a short distance, we crossed an- 
 other stream rather wider than the former, the water of which runs 
 perfectly clear over a bottom of pebbles. This branch, the principal 
 of those which form the Calycadnus, is called the Ermenek-su, from 
 a town of that name near its sources in the western part of the 
 valley, where we are informed considerable remains of antiquity, 
 similar to those of Mout, are to be seen. More are said to exist also 
 lower down the valley, between Mout and Selefke. The Calycadnus 
 passes the ruins of Seleucia at Selefke, and joins the sea not far below 
 that place. Soon after crossing the Ermenek we began to ascend, and 
 travelled for the rest of the day along a horse-track amidst the forests 
 and mountains. The oaks are not numerous, and are chiefly confined 
 to the lower regions, where they are intermixed with arbutus, ilex, 
 cornel, juniper, lentisk, &c. In the upper parts scarcely any trees 
 were seen but pines of different species : most of these were of a 
 moderate size, but some which we saw in the highest parts of the 
 mountain were straight, large, tall, and fit for the masts of ships of war. 
 Great numbers had been destroyed for the sake of the turpentine, by
 
 2^Q ASIA MINOR. 
 
 makinfT an incision near the foot of the tree and Hghting a fire under it, 
 which has the effect of malcing the resin run more freely. The summits 
 in the center of the ridge which we crossed yesterday are higher than 
 any part of this range, but these mountains are more extensive, and 
 of a still wilder and more rugged description. We are told that in 
 addition to the wild animals found in that ridge, the forests of these 
 mountains contain tigers, or at least an animal to which the Turkish 
 name of Kaplan is given. The road sometimes passed along the 
 edo-e of precipices of immense height ; at other times it was a rugged 
 path, climbing amidst broken rocks, where there seemed hardly a 
 footing for a mule ; and at others a descent upon banks and slopes 
 so slippery that it was difficult even on foot to avoid falling. The 
 camels, whose footing is so very ill formed for such roads, passed 
 them nevertheless without any material accident ; they had no doubt 
 been often accustomed to carry the merchandize of the people of 
 Karaman across the mountains which separate that town from the 
 coast in every direction ; and it may be mentioned as a remarkable 
 instance of the force of habit. We met with a very civil reception 
 from the Aga of Sheikh Amur, who presented us with part of a large 
 wild boar which his men had killed in the woods. 
 
 This morning, Feb. 8. we are much gratified by the delightful situ- 
 ation of the village perched upon a rocky hill, in a small hollow, sur- 
 rounded by an amphitheatre of woody mountains. We proceed from 
 Sheikh- Amur to Guhiar, on the sea side, a distance of six hours for 
 horses. At a short distance from Sheikh- Au)ur we remark several 
 comfortable cottages, surrounded with patches of cultivation, and in- 
 closures of pallisades. These detached habitations, so uncommon in 
 Turkey, indicate a degree of security which gives us a favourable 
 opinion of the Caramanian mountaineers, whom indeed we have found 
 very hospitable and inoffensive. The road is through the most beautiful 
 mountain-scenery. A woody valley between high rocks, with a rivulet 
 of clear water trickling through it, conducted us into a district more 
 open and level, but at the same time more singularly wild than any we 
 had yet seen ; for over the whole of it high perpendicular rocks, of
 
 ASIA MINOR. 241 
 
 the most grotesque and varied forms, stood up among the trees, re- 
 sembling nothing to which we could compare them but some of the 
 representations of scenery on the Chinese earthen ware. From hence 
 we passed along the dry bed of a torrent, which served as a road, 
 between high calcareous precipices, rising close to us on either side- 
 As we advanced, these rocks were fringed with ivy, saxifrage, &c., 
 and mixed with small groves of evergreens : at the bottom, a clear 
 stream ran along a natural groove in the rock. The prospect soon 
 opened upon an extensive forest of oaks upon the slope of the moun- 
 tain, and at length conducted us to a pass between two summits, from 
 whence we beheld the sea with almost as much delight as the soldiers 
 of Xenophon, on the top of Mount Theches. The island of Cyprus 
 appeared in the horizon. We descended into the valley which borders 
 the coast, by a long and extremely steep and rugged mountain-path, 
 often intersected by rivulets running In ravines, shaded by plane-trees. 
 The valley presented a prospect very different from those we had 
 passed. Its meadows and cultivated fields were in all the luxuriant 
 vegetation and brilliant colours of an advanced spring. Among them 
 are dispersed some cottages, with flat roofs and open galleries, like 
 those of the interior country. We followed down the mountain the 
 remains of an antient aqueduct, and as we approached the coast, 
 traced it again leading towards the ruins of the antient town which 
 occupied the cape forming the bay of Celenderis. The road through 
 the valley led along the beds of torrents adorned with oleander and 
 agnus castus, and through groves of myrtle, bay, and other shrubs, 
 produced only in the softer climate of the coast. The ruins, the 
 beautiful curve of the bay, and the distant sea-view on the one side, 
 and on the other the rich valley, contrasted with the steep mountains 
 and dark woods behind, form a most beautiful picture, especially when 
 seen, as by us, with the advantage of the brightest weather. 
 
 Gulnar of the Turks, and Kelenderi of the Greeks, is the name 
 applied to the harbour and surrounding district, where the dispersed 
 cottages, already mentioned, and the tombs and subterraneous vaults 
 of the antient Celenderis, are the only habitations ; several of the 
 
 VOL. 11. I I
 
 242 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 latter were occupied by poor Turkish families. Our lodging was 
 a brick- vault, with a stone-pavement, which seemed once to have 
 been a cistern ; a low arch divided it into two equal parts. The 
 roof of the outer had fallen in, but the inner furnished a dry and 
 comfortable apartment. The remains of Celenderis are of various 
 dates, but no part of them, unless it be some sepulchres excavated in 
 the rock, appear to be older than the early periods of the empire of 
 Rome ; and there are some even of a late date belonging to that of 
 Constantinople. The town occupied all the space adjacent to the 
 inner part of the bay, together with the whole of the projecting cape. 
 The best preserved remains of antiquity are a square tower upon the 
 extremity of the cape, and a monument of white marble among the 
 tombs ; the latter is formed of four open arches, supported upon 
 pilasters of the Corinthian order, of not very finished workmanship ; 
 and the wliole is surmounted with a pyramid, the apex of which has 
 fallen. I observed some handsome tesselated pavements among the 
 ruins, and a great number of sarcophagi, and fragments of columns 
 and wrought stones. 
 
 Although it now preserves I'emains only of a Roman town, Ce- 
 lenderis, in more antient times, seems to have been the principal 
 place in this part of the country. It gave name to a region called 
 Celenderitis, and coined those silver tetradrachms which supply some 
 of the earliest and finest specimens of the numismatic art. The an- 
 tiquity of the city is proved by the tradition of its having been 
 founded by Sandocus, son of Phaethon *, and it seems to have re- 
 ceived a colony of the same Samians who founded Nagidus.f It is 
 situated about the center of the coast of Cilicia Tracheia. 
 
 As this province extended to the boundaries of Tarsus, on the 
 east, of Coracesium on the west, and of Laranda on the north :]:, it 
 seems to have corresponded exactly to the Turkish province of Itshil. 
 The most fertile and the only level part of Tracheiotis is the valley 
 
 Apollodorus, 1.3. c. 14. f Pomp. Mela. 1. 1. c. 13. J Strabo, p. 668.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 243 
 
 of the Calycadnus, which district was sometimes called Citis.* The 
 river rising to the north-west, passes by the modern towns of Erme- 
 nek, Sinanti, JMout, and Selefke, and joins the sea not far below the 
 last. Olbasa being the only city mentioned in the inland part of 
 Citis by Ptolemy f , and Claudiopolis by Ammianus :}:, it is probable 
 that Olbasa changed its name to Claudiopolis, upon occasion of the 
 colony established there by Claudius Coesar, and that its situation was 
 at Mout. Philadelphia and Diocaesareia, which were also in this part 
 of the country, may have been at Ermerek, and at the ruins already 
 mentioned between Mout and Selefke. 
 
 Feb. 9. — Nothing can more strongly indicate the present deso^ 
 lation of these fine countries, than the fact that as we descended the 
 hills yesterday, towards the coast, only one vessel was visible in the 
 vast extent of sea then open to our view. It proved to be the boat 
 which was to carry us across to Cyprus, and in which we embarked 
 this evening, having delayed until that time, in the hope of profiting 
 about midnight of the land-breeze from the mountains, which seldom 
 fails when the weather is fair. 
 
 Feb. 10. — The land-breeze carried us half across the channel, and 
 then left us to be tossed all day by the swell in a calm. 
 
 Feb. 11. — We land this forenoon at Tzerina, called bv the Italians 
 Cerina, and by the Turks Gherne. It is the antient Ceryneia, and 
 is now a small town with a Venetian fortification, and bad port on 
 the north-eastern coast of Cyprus. It is reckoned by the Greek 
 sailors eighty miles from Kelenderi, probably less than sixty English. 
 The town is situated amidst plantations of oranges, lemons, olives, 
 dates, and other fruit-trees ; and all the uncultivated parts of the 
 plains aroimd are covered with bay, myrtle, and mastic. On the 
 west side of the to\vn are extensive quarries, among which some cata- 
 combs are the only remains of the antient Ceryneia. The harbour, 
 
 • Basil of Seleucia, in the Life of Thecla. f L. 5. c. 8. 
 
 t Claudiopolis, quam deduxit coloniam Claudius Ciesar. 
 
 II 2
 
 244 ^^^^ MINOR. 
 
 bad and small as it is, must, upon a coast very deficient in maritime 
 shelter, have always ensured to the position a certain degree of im- 
 portance. The formation of the eastern part of the north side of 
 Cyprus is very singular : it consists of a high rugged ridge of steep 
 rocks, running in a strait line from east to west, and descending ab- 
 ruptly to the south, into the great plain of Lefkosia, and to the north 
 to a narrow plain boi'dering the coast. Upon several of the rocky 
 summits of the ridge are castles which seem almost inaccessible. The 
 slope and maritime plain at the foot of the rocks, on the north, pos- 
 sess the finest soil and climate, with a plentiful supply of water, and 
 this is one of the most beautiful and best cultivated districts I have 
 seen in Turkey. 
 
 Feb. 12. — Finding it impossible to procure horses in time to 
 enable us to reach the gates of Lefkosia before sunset, when they are 
 shut, we are under the necessity of remaining at Tzerina to-day. 1 
 visit a larse ruined monastery, in a delightful situation, not far to the 
 eastward of Tzerina, at no great distance from the sea. It contains 
 the remains of a handsome Gothic chapel and hall, and bears a great 
 resemblance to the ruins of an English abbey. 
 
 Yeh. 13. — From Tzerina to Lefkosia, six hours. At the back of 
 Tzerina the road passes through a natural opening in the great wall I 
 have already described, and descends into the extensive plain of Lef- 
 kosia. This is in some places rocky and barren, and is little cultivated 
 even where the soil is good. Like most of the plains of Greece, it 
 is marshy in the winter and spring, and unhealthy in the summer. 
 On the west and south are the mountains which occupy all that part 
 of the island, and the slopes of which produce the wines exported in 
 so large a quantity from Cyprus to all the neighbouring coasts. In 
 the center of the plain is Lefkosia (Ac-u;coo-/a), called Nicosia by the 
 Italians, the capital of the island and of the province of Itshili, of 
 which Cyprus is considered a part, though the government is now 
 always administered, like the other Greek islands, by a deputy of the 
 Capudan Pasha. The ramparts of the Venetian fortifications of Lef-
 
 ASIA MINOR. 245 
 
 kosia exist in tolerable preservation ; but the ditch is filled up, and 
 there is no appearance of there having been a covert way. There are 
 thirteen bastions : the ramparts are lofty and solid, with orillons and 
 retired flanks. There is a large church converted into a mosque, and 
 still bearing, like the great mosque at Constantinople, the Greek 
 name of St. Sophia : it is said to have been built by .Justinian ; but 
 this may be doubted, as Procopius, in his work on the edifices of that 
 emperor, makes no mention of it. The flat roofs, trellised windows, 
 and light balconies of the better order of houses, situated as they are 
 in the midst of gardens of oranges and lemons, give, together with the 
 fortifications, a respectable and picturesque appearance to Lefkosia at 
 a little distance, but, upon entering it, the narrow dirty streets, and 
 miserable habitations of the lower classes, make a very different im- 
 pression upon the traveller ; and the sickly countenances of the in- 
 habitants sufficiently show the unhealthiness of the climate. At Lef- 
 kosia we are very hospitably entertained by an Armenian merchant, of 
 the name of Sarkes, who is an English baratli, and under that pro- 
 tection has amassed a considerable property, and lives in splendour : 
 he and his relations seem to occupy all the principal offices of the 
 island held by Christians, such as interpreter and banker to the JMot- 
 selim, or deputy of the Capudan Pasha, collector of the contributions 
 of the Christians, head of the Christian community, &c. 
 
 Feb. 14. — From Lefkosia to Larnaka, eight hours. The first 
 half of the distance was a continuation of the same plain as before; 
 the remainder over rugged hills of soft limestone, among which we 
 cross some long ridges of selenite. At Larnaka we found Sir Sidney 
 Smith with his small squadron : he had just signed a treaty for the 
 evacuation of Egypt by the French. 
 
 Feb. 15. — We pass the day on board the Tigre, where we find 
 General Junot, afterwards Duke of Abrantes, and Madame Junot and 
 General Dupuy : the latter, next to Kleber, the senior general of the 
 army of Egypt. They were taken by the Theseus, Captain Styles, in 
 attempting to escape from Alexandria.
 
 246 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 The town of Larnaka * stands at the distance of a mile from the 
 shore, and has a quarter on the sea-side, called AXikU by the Greeks, 
 
 * We landed at the sea-port or Marina of Larnaka, called by some authors Salines 
 from the salt-pans ia its neighbourhood. It stands at the bottom of the bay : it is a small 
 place ; but contains a mosque, a church, baths, coffee-houses, and well filled shops. In 
 these we observed plain and striped cottons, mixed stuffs of cotton and silk, silk purses, 
 tobacco-pipes, hard-ware, books in modern Greek. Some of the streets are rendered cool 
 and pleasant in summer by a canopy of vines. Larnaka is situated about a mile to the 
 east of the Marina, and is a fine village; but owes all its beauty to the delightful gardens 
 in the neighbourhood ; the walks of which are overhung with the jasmin, the evergreen 
 rose, and particularly by the nerium oleander, or rose-bay. This grows here with great 
 luxuriance, and is remarkable for the clusters of pale crimson flowers ; and forms the chief 
 ornament of the gardens. In the fields adjoining the town, we observed the caper-bush in 
 flower, as well as the lycopersicon, or love-apple. 
 
 From the accounts we had received of the unheal thiness of Cyprus we were under con- 
 siderable apprehensions on our arrival ; and were cautious at first : but such is the effect 
 of habit, that in a short time we walked about in the middle of the day. Among the 
 natives not a creature was stirring abroad at that time ; but in the morning and in the 
 cool of the evening there is a considerable bustle among ihem. Except the oppression 
 produced by excessive heat, I remember no unpleasant effect from the air of the island ; 
 ill summer, however, strangers are apt to be affected by a coiip dc soldi, often the fore- 
 runner of fever or death. The fevers of Cyprus are in general so rapid in their course, 
 that there is little time for remission ; but in one case I saw almost an intermission : the 
 patient walked about and said he was in perfect health ; but from the appearance of his 
 eyes and hurried manner, it was too evident this was not the case. Those men who died 
 of the fever on board of the Ceres had slept all night on shore. The sick belonging to 
 the Thisbe were landed at Limosol ; and kept in a tent during the ship's stay there; and 
 though the surgeon's conduct in this instance appears to have been rash, I did not hear 
 that any bad consequences followed it. 
 
 Tlieie seemed to be no want of schools at Larnaka. In the courts of private houses, 
 I have seen the elder boys teaching the younger to read ; and not from manuscript, but 
 printed books. Of these they have a considerable number; but most of those I ex- 
 amined related to religious subjects : they have also translations from the European 
 languages. 
 
 The church of St. Lazarus at the Marina is a large heavy building; instead of a 
 steeple, it has merely a circular rising, or rude dome, on its roof; the use of bells being 
 prohibited to the Greeks by the Turks. The church is large and spacious inside; is 
 ornamented with much carving and gilding; and has some paintings ill executed. A 
 part of the building being more elevated than the rest, and separated from it by wooden 
 lattices, is appropriated to the women : but it has no kind of ornament. From the area, 
 or ground-floor, which at the time of our visit was kept remarkably clean, a flight of steps 
 leads to the relics and pictures, which are all placed in that part of the church opposite
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 247 
 
 and Marina by the Italians. In the intermediate space are many 
 foundations of antient walls, and other remains, amonfjr the wardens 
 
 to the female lattices. Our guide took care to point out the most valuable relic, the 
 great toe of St. George, who at one time was held in great reverence on the opposite coast 
 of Syria. The grand object, however, of our guide's veneration was the tomb of St. La- 
 zarus. It is in a vault under ground, and said by the Cypriotes to be possessed of sovereign 
 virtue, being able, in their opinion, to restore even the dying to perfect health, if they be laid 
 upon the tomb. In passing to this, our friend cast an approving glance upon a picture of 
 a huge saint, with a dog's head, which had the name XPI2T0<i>EP02 written above it. 
 The representation resembled extremely the common figures of Anubis. In the neighbour- 
 hood of this church is the burying-ground for Protestants ; and here I took notice of the 
 tombs of several Englishmen, who had all died in the summer, when the heat is excessive. 
 
 The Mahometan burying ground in this part of the island is full of grave-stones ; but 
 inscriptions are not common. When the body is deposited in the grave, an arch is built 
 over it with lath and plaster, and then covered with earth : we saw the grave ojjea in 
 places where this had given way. 
 
 In our observations on the domestic habits of the Cypriotes, we found them hospitable 
 and obliging: in whatever house we entered, we were received with kindness. The in- 
 habitants, in general, are well clothed : the shops are well filled ; and the women of the 
 middle classes have rich dresses. There seemed to be no want of provisions; they have 
 sheep and fowls in great number ; the gardens abound with vegetables, and the vines hanf 
 almost every where in the villages with luxuriant clusters. The desserts on their tables 
 consisted of the finest fruits, musk and water melons, apricots, &c. The musk-melons we 
 seldom tasted, on account of their supposed tendency to produce disease, but the water- 
 melons afforded an agreeable beverage, peculiarly grateful in a hot climate. 
 
 During the month of July, 1801, we were twice at Limosol : this place is situated in 
 the southern part of Cyprus, in N. lat. 34° 39', E. Ion. 33° 30'. It stands at the extremity 
 of an open bay, and is a long straggling town intermixed with gardens, inclosed, for the 
 most part, by stone walls. It is much cooler in summer than Larnaka. I observed in the 
 fields near the town the wild poppy in flower, a branchy species of hypericuni, with small 
 yellow blossoms, a species of orobanche with violet-coloured flowers, and the convolvulus. 
 The gardens seemed to be equally productive with those of Larnaka. 
 
 We went to Limosol for the purpose of procuring wood and water: the latter was ob- 
 tained from a well by means of a Persian wheel of rude construction, turned round by an 
 ass. The well was in a sequestered situation, to the west of the town, overshadowed bv a 
 variety of trees, among which were the Palrna Christi, or Castor-oil Shrub, and the Morus 
 alba. 
 
 The plain of Limosol is perhaps one of the most fertile districts in the island ; and where 
 the iiround is not cultivated there are clusters of the olive and locust tree, and the ever- 
 green Cypress. No tract of country perhaps affords a finer variety of thorns and thistles ; 
 and there, as well as at Larnaka, the caper-bush grows luxuriantly. Some small fields 
 near the town were covered with tobacco and cotton plants ; and in this plain the sugar-
 
 248 -ASIA MINOR. 
 
 and inclosures. The stones are removed for building materials almost 
 as quickly as they are discovered ; but the great extent of these ves- 
 tiges, and the numerous antiquities which at different times have been 
 found here*, seem to leave little doubt that Citium stood on this 
 spot, the most antient and important city upon the coast. 
 
 March 2. — After having remained several days at Larnaka and 
 Lef kosia, we arrive to-day at Tzerina, on our return to Constantinople. 
 The purity of the air on the north coast of Cyprus is very sensibly 
 perceived, after leaving the interior plains and the unhealthy situation 
 of Larnaka. The Turkish troops are already arriving in large bodies, 
 on their way home, in the faith that the war of Egypt is concluded. 
 
 We set sail at eight this morning, in a three-masted covered vessel, 
 with latine sails, for Satalia. A halo round the moon last night, and a 
 turbid atmosphere this morning, portend a change of weather. At two 
 or three miles from the port, the land-wind which carried us out falls 
 and leaves us becalmed, but a breeze soon springs up from the east- 
 ward, and we steer N. by W. Having come in sight of the coast, we 
 soon perceive the point of Anemur, five or six leagues to leeward of 
 us. As we approach the shore, the wind coming from the westward, 
 and freshening, we are unable to weather Cape Selenti, and are obliged 
 to make for a small cove, called Kalandra by the Turks, and Kharadra 
 (its antient name) by the Greeks. Here we are sheltered under the 
 lee of a high cape, and by the help of six cables, three attached to 
 
 cane is said to have at one time abounded. I found the olive on the banks of a river, the 
 bed of which was now drv ; and on the borders of other streams a number of trees were in 
 bloom, such as tlie Mimosa, the Oleander, the Pomegranate, and the Jasmin. The fruit 
 of the locust-tree is very astringent, when green ; but as soon as it ripens, it becomes sweet 
 and pleasant, and in the winter-season constitutes the ordinary food of the sheep and goats. 
 In the hedges, that beautiful shrub, the Palma Christi, is quite common, and its ripe fruit 
 is sometimes used by the natives medicinally ; but I do not know that they have ever ex- 
 tracted the oil as an article of commerce. The vine is seen growing in almost every court- 
 yard, and its fruit is of exquisite flavour; but the richness of the red grape brought to 
 Limosol in little hampers, from the interior, is perhaps unequalled. 
 
 Extracts from the Journal of Dr. Hume. 
 * See Mariti, Drummond, and Pococke.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 249 
 
 the anchors, and three to the shore, we ride out a most tempestuous 
 night of wind, rain, and thunder. 
 
 March 8. — At ten this forenoon, the weather having become se- 
 rene, we land and spend the day at some huts on the sea-shore, 
 belonging to a village on the hills which we do not see. Here the 
 coast, retiring from the cape under which we were sheltered last 
 night, forms a small bay ; around it is a fertile valley ; at the head of 
 which a torrent, making its way from high mountains *, between lofty 
 precipices, seems to have given to this place the Greek name of Kha- 
 radra. The retired vallev, with the bold coast, and the woods and 
 precipices at the back, is extremely beautiful. The only remains of 
 antiquity are part of a mole, just below the huts on the sea-shore. On 
 the side of the torrent, a mile up the valley, is a deserted building, 
 which has every appearance of Venetian or Genoese construction. 
 Kharadra is reckoned by our boatmen ninety miles from Tzerina, 
 twenty or thirty from Cape Selenti, and sixty from Alaia. It has 
 been already remarked that they reckon eighty from Kelenderi to 
 Tzerina ; it seems, therefore, that the Greek mile is about two thirds 
 of the geographical. As the word ;w/x< was borrowed from the Latin, 
 the measure must originally have been the same as the Roman mile, 
 though it is now shorter. It is, however, merely a computed, and 
 not a measured distance, and I could never obtain from the Greeks 
 any accurate definition of it. 
 
 March 9. — We sail this forenoon at ten with a fair breeze, which 
 in two hours • brings us abreast of Cape Selenti. Here the wind 
 slackens, and becomes variable, and sometimes contrary with frequent 
 showers and calms, so that we do not arrive at Alaia till eight in the 
 evening. During the first half of the distance from Cape Selenti, we 
 sail under high cliffs and headlands, above which are some very lofty 
 mountains, covered with snow. Further on, the mountains retire 
 
 • This is the Mount Audriclus which Strabo places above Charadrus. 
 VOL. II. K K
 
 250 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 more inland, and leave upon the coast a fertile plain, which increases 
 in breadth as we approach Alaia, 
 
 March 10. — This town is situated upon a rocky hill, jutting into 
 the sea from the outer or westernmost angle of the plain. It re- 
 sembles Gibraltar, the hill being naturally fortified on the western side 
 by perpendicular cliffs of vast height, and fiilling in the opposite di- 
 rection by a very steep slope to the sea. The whole face of the hill 
 is surrounded with high solid walls * and towers, but the lower part 
 only is occupied by the town, which is about a mile in circumference. 
 The ground upon which it stands is so steep that the houses rise 
 above one another in terraces, so that in many places the flat roofs of 
 one row of houses serve for a street to those above them. To the 
 eastward of the town there is an anchorage for large ships, and small 
 vessels are drawn up on the beach. In the middle of the sea-front 
 are some large vaulted structures, on a level with the water's edge, 
 intended for sheltering galleys ; and constructed, perhaps, by the 
 Genoese. They now serve for building the vessels, called by the 
 Turks Ghirlanghitsh (swallow), which are generally formed with three 
 masts and a boltsprit, all bearing triangular sails. Of these and other 
 vessels nearly resembling them, of from twenty to sixty tons burthen, 
 there are several belonging to Alaia. This place is said to have taken 
 its name from its founder Alah-ed-din, son of Kaikosru, who was sur- 
 named Kaikobad, and was the tenth of the Seljukian dynasty, and 
 founder of the Iconian race. It seems to have become the principal 
 maritime fortress and naval arsenal of these sovereigns, and of their 
 successors the princes of Karaman. In the old maps Alaia is called 
 Castel Ubaldo, which may possibly have been the name given to it by 
 the Venetians and Genoese, when in possession of this and other 
 strong holds upon the Caramanian coast, but there is no recollection 
 of the name at present. In the year 1471 the Prince of Karaman, 
 then engaged in a struggle for independence with Mahomet the 
 
 * In some parts of the modern wall are remains of Hellenic masonry, of the kind often 
 called Cyclop' in.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 251 
 
 Second, was put in possession of Alaia, and several other places, by 
 the Venetians, who were then in alliance with him against the Otto- 
 man Emperor. From the town, the beach runs eastward, and thence 
 forms a long sweep to the south-east to Cape Selenti, which is seen 
 from Alaia. The level coast extends about half that distance, and 
 ends in an angle, where some trees are seen round a village, at which 
 I was informed that there are remains of an antient city. There are 
 other ruins said to be of great extent at a few hours to the northward 
 of Alaia. 
 
 I was detained at Alaia by illness, and while General Koehler, with 
 his two remaining companions, (Mr. Carlyle having left them in 
 Cyprus,) pursued their journey overland to Constantinople, I pro- 
 ceeded thither by sea, touching at the most remarkable places on the 
 coast, as well as at the adjacent islands of Rhodes, Cos, Patmos, Samos, 
 Chios, Lesbos, and Tenedos. Of those places which I visited on the 
 coast, and which deserve to be more thoroughly described, the most 
 remarkable are, 1. The ruins of a large city, with a noble theatre, at 
 Kakava, in a fine harbour, formed by a range of rocky islands. 2. The 
 island called Kccc-reXo^u^ov by the Greeks, and Castel Rosso by the 
 Italians. It is a flourishing little Greek town, carrying on a con- 
 siderable commerce of timber and charcoal with Alexandria. In a 
 plain in the interior of the island, I found the remains of some antient 
 buildings, of Hellenic construction. The importance of the situation 
 must at all times have attracted inhabitants. 3. Antiphellus, on the 
 main land, opposite to Castel Rosso. Here I found a small theatre 
 nearly complete, the remains of several public buildings and private 
 houses, together with catacombs, and a great number of sarcophagi, 
 some of which are very large and magnificent. The greater part have 
 inscriptions, few of which are legible. In two or three, however, I 
 read the name of the city Antiphellus. 4. Telmissus, at iNIakri, the 
 port of Mei, at the bottom of the gulf of Glaucus.* The theatre, and 
 
 * On this coast of Asia Minor is situated the harbour or bay of Marmorice, in which 
 part of the English fleet anchored, prior to the landing in Egjpt. As there is no 
 
 K K 2
 
 252 
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 the porticoes and sepulchral chambers, excavated in the rocks at this 
 place, are some of the most remarkable remains of antiquity in Asia 
 
 published account of this bay, the reader will peruse with pleasure the following extract 
 from the journals of Dr. Hume : — 
 
 " On the 1st of January, 1801, about mid-day, the weather being rough and cold, we 
 came abreast of Rhodes, and thence continued our course towards Marmorice, formerly 
 the Pertea Rhodiorum, situated on the southern coast of Caria, and near the gulf of 
 Glaucus, the modern Macri. The entrance to the bay lies between a range of high moun- 
 tains; and we might have, probably, missed it, had not a sloop of war been cruising off 
 the coast on purpose to lead us in. Of the mountains that hid the bay of Marmorice, 
 many were partially obscured with mist, others were overshadowed by a variety of trees, 
 and streams of the clearest water were falling from the rocks upon this bold shore, which 
 showed no appearance of inlet or harbour. We perceived, however, as we advanced, the 
 mountains gradually separating, and at length beheld, over a narrow neck of land, the 
 masts of our advanced squadron, which had left Malta about a week before us. 
 
 " The entrance to Marmorice bay is so narrow that a line of battle ship, or even a frigate, 
 is not able to work in with a foul wind. When, however, the projecting point of land 
 which conceals the bay is once passed, a vast basin of water, presenting an expanse of 
 about twenty miles, with its shoves rising to a great height, and covered with wood, bursts 
 upon the view. The scene, though sufficiently beautiful in itself, was at this time rendered 
 doubly interesting by the presence of the fleet and transports intended for the expedition 
 against the French in Egypt. 
 
 " The form of Marmorice Bay may be represented by a triangle, the sides of which are 
 nearly equal, and lying east, west, and south. The eastern and western sides are formed 
 by high mountains, the southern by an island, and a peninsula joined to the eastern conti- 
 nent by a narrow neck of land. Between the island and the peninsula is the principal 
 entrance; the other, between the island and the western continent, does not appear to be 
 in use, the passage to it being more crooked, and the water shallower. The main entrance 
 lies in N. Lit. 36° 47' 45", and in E. long. 28° 32' 26", about twenty miles, almost due 
 north of Rhodes. It is open to no wind capable of doing any material injury to the ship- 
 ping in the bay, which may be said to be completely land-locked. But in very high 
 easterly or southerly winds, the motion of the open sea is communicated to the interior of 
 the bay, and causes a considerable swell ; and the wind sometimes blows in heavy squalls 
 from the high land. 
 
 " The town of Marmorice is situated near the northern extremity of the eastern side of 
 the bay about five miles from the entrance. It stands on a little rocky eminence, and is 
 very irregularly built, having no street, but merely a few dirty and crooked lanes that 
 separate the houses. These were very ordinary buildings, and bore a striking resemblance 
 to the cottages in Scotland, which in barren districts are built of whinstone. In the 
 highest part of the town is a modern castle, almost in ruins, having a few rusty cannons 
 planted on its walls, of no great calibre. Behind the town is a small mosque, very plain, 
 but neat ; within, it has no ornament except a few Arabic sentences written on the wall :
 
 ASIA MINOR. geo 
 
 Minor. 5. The ruins of Assus, at Behrem Kalesi, opposite to Molivo, 
 the antient Methymna in iSIjtilene. The ruins are extremely curious. 
 
 we observed, when we looked in, some of tlie inhabitants of the place kneclin"- in prayer. 
 In the cemetery near the mosque were small stones setup in the form of the antient cippi. 
 
 " On the arrival of the English, a number of people were soon collected to"'etherin the 
 town of Marmorice, from the interior of the countrj' ; they formed a market upon stands 
 in the open air, and offered a variety of articles for sale, among which we noticed dried figs, 
 raisins, walnuts, honey, wax, tobacco-pipes of coarse workmanship, and a confection of 
 walnuts and almonds. 
 
 " To the north-west of the town is an extensive plain, well watered by 'a number of rivu- 
 lets, which descend from the adjacent highlands; but in some places near the sea it is very 
 marshy : it is divided into enclosures, mostly in the state of meadow, amon" which are a 
 few rude cottages. Near the town are some fine plantations of orange trees. On the 
 western side of the bay, beyond this plain, is a considerable tract of ground, nearly level, 
 lying between the sea and the foot of the mountains, covered in many parts with small 
 trees, or brushwood ; and along the beach is a road leading lo a valley a little further to the 
 south than the entrance of the bay. 
 
 " I visited this valley in a shooting excursion, and was much struck with the scenery. It 
 was watered by a rivulet, which, after winding among thickets of myrtle, laurel, willow, 
 and wild sage, lost itself in the bay, or among sedges and sand. Near the centre, and on 
 the border of the rivulet, were a few cottages, of very rude construction ; the walls of some 
 were built of mud dried in the sun ; others consisted of stones loosely put together, and the 
 roofs were formed by pieces of wood laid across the wall, and covered with sods or straw. 
 In one of the cottages was a woman, sitting at a loom, and weaving. About half a mile 
 higher we came to a water-fall, where the river seemed to force itself through a narrow 
 opening of the mountain ; the thickets here were impenetrable, and we were obliged to 
 return. Among some low wood, near the entrance of the valley, I found marble pillars, 
 both plain and fluted, lying on the ground; they were of small dimensions. 
 
 " The island at the entrance is very little elevated, when compared to the neighbouring 
 mountains ; but it is rugged, precipitous, and covered entirely with thickets. The ad- 
 joining peninsula is much higher, but equally rugged ; and seems to have no fixed in- 
 habitants. I liindccl on it at a spot equallj' distant from the entrance and the neck of 
 land ; and though the larger trees had been already felled by our people for fire-wood, it 
 was with some difficulty that I forced my way to the narrow isthmus which joins it to the 
 continent. This isthmus is quite flat ; in some places covered with a kind of stunted 
 willow, and in others with sand ; and so narrow that the captain of a ship who had come 
 hither through mistake, instead of to Marmorice, made his sailors drag the boat across it, 
 and so proceeded to the flag-ship. The land of the adjoining continent is very high, and 
 is in many places covered with firs. A little way to the south-east of the isthmus is the 
 fine bay of Karagatch, which, though smaller, is as safe, and not less picturesque than 
 Marmorice. The Turks in this part of the country are stout handsome men ; with 
 swarthy complexions, and dark piercing eyes. They were all armed either with muskets 
 and pistols, or sabres or long knives stuck in their girdles. The sabres and knives have
 
 254 -^SIA MIKOR. 
 
 There is a theatre in very perfect preservation ; there are also the re- 
 mains of several temples, at one of which are figures in low relief, in 
 a very antient style of art, sculptured upon the hard granite of Mount 
 Ida, which forms the materials of many of the buildings. On the 
 western side of the city the remains of the walls and towers, with 
 a gate, are in complete preservation ; without the walls is seen the 
 cemetery, with numerous sarcophagi, some of which are of gigantic 
 
 generally silver or plated handles ; and the barrel and wood of their fowling-pieces are 
 bound together with small circles of brass : but they are, in every respect, of clumsy 
 workmanship. Of the Caramanian women, the few we saw at Marmorice had no pre- 
 tensions to beauty; their dress also was unbecoming: the head is enveloped in a large 
 handkerchief or bonnet; the limbs are concealed by a kind of wide trowsers ; and the 
 whole body is wrapped in a loose upper robe or garment. Like the women in all coun- 
 tries removed from civilisation, they appeared to be domestic slaves; tilling the ground, 
 or working at some trade ; the husbands being much abroad in pursuit of game. 
 
 " Near Marmorice the wild boar has been shot in the woods. Jackals are numerous. I 
 saw several dromedaries in the vicinity of the town. Sheep were few in number. The black 
 long-haired goat is quite common ; and so is a small breed of black cattle, like those of 
 the Scottish Highlands. Partridges with red bills and feet, woodcocks, snipes, wood and 
 rock pigeons, wild ducks, abound. Near the mouth of the rivulets we found among the 
 sedge, a number of tortoises. 
 
 " Before the arrival of Sir Sidney Smith on this coast, subsequent to Buonaparte's attack 
 on Acre, the fine harbours of Marmorice and Macri appear to have been entirely un- 
 known ; at least their position had been determined accurately by no chart. There are 
 no remains of the antient Physcus : I found only part of a shaft of a column two feet and 
 a half in diameter, among some low wood, about a mile to the west of the town of Mar- 
 morice ; but probably more remains of antiquity might be discovered in that direction. 
 On the east side of the valley, I have already spoken of, at the outside of the harbour, the 
 ajjpearance of the ground rising from near the sea to the foot of the rocks is so singular as 
 to lead us to suppose it was the work of art. It forms a small segment of a great circle 
 facing the sea towards Rhodes, and rises by regular terraces like the seats of an immense 
 theatre, each terrace being about ten feet broad, and elevated by three feet above the one 
 immediately below it. A tree or shrub is here and there met with ; but in most parts the 
 terraces are covered by a smooth green turf. Neither marble nor inscriptions were dis- 
 cernible ; and hardly any rubbish. The height of the rocks above may be fifty or sixty 
 feet. In climbing the terraces, I took notice of a prodigious excavation in one part of 
 these rocks, with a road leading to it from the mountain behind ; but though on the 
 terraces the ascent to this cave seemed practicable, yet in trying to penetrate so far, I 
 found my way obstructed by a deep ravine, which prevented my jiroceeding. I hope that 
 some traveller may be more fortunate than myself in examining this spot. It did not 
 seem to me to be a natural excavation."
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 255 
 
 dimensions, still standing in their places, and an antient causeway 
 
 leading to the gate. The whole gives, perhaps, the most perfect idea 
 
 of a Greek city that any where exists. 
 
 I shall subjoin a brief itinerary of the route of General Koehler and 
 
 his party from Alaia to Shughiit, where he fell into the same road by 
 
 which we came from Constantinople in January. 
 
 March 11. — From Alaia to Alara, eight computed or caravan hours : 
 the road leads along the sea-shore, sometimes just above the sea-beach, 
 
 upon high woody banks, connected on the right with the great range of 
 mountains which lies parallel to the coast ; at others, across narrow fer- 
 tile valleys, included between branches of the same mountains. There 
 are one or tw^o fine harbours formed by islands and projecting capes, but 
 the coast for the most part is rocky and without shelter, and after such a 
 westerly gale as we experienced last night, is exposed to a tremendous 
 surf The equinoctial monsoon occurs very regularly upon these coasts, 
 and the Greek sailors think themselves sufficiently prudent if they re- 
 main in port for the first fortnight of JNIarch, old style. Alara is two 
 or three miles from the sea, in a valley inclosed between woody hills, 
 and situated amidst gardens and corn-fields, with neat fences. Near 
 the village is a remarkable conical hill, with the ruins of a strong 
 castle upon it in good preservation. It is said by the natives to have 
 been built by the Sultan Alah-ed-din, of Iconium. 
 
 March 12. — From Alara to Hadgi-Ali Kiui, eight hours. The 
 road proceeded at a distance of three or four miles from the sea, 
 crossing several fertile and well-cultivated valleys, and passing some 
 neat villages pleasantly situated. The valleys are watered by streams 
 coming from a range of lofty mountains, appearing at a great distance 
 on the right. The largest of these rivers was a little beyond the 
 fortified hill of Alara, which was traversed by a wooden bridge sixty 
 feet in length. Another large river occurred about three hours further. 
 On the west side of the gulf, a little to the left of the direction of the 
 route, appeared another range of mountains, still more lofty than 
 those on the right, and so distant that nothing but their outline was
 
 256 -^SIA MINOR. 
 
 visible. No remains of Grecian antiquity were seen by the travellers 
 either this day or yesterday. 
 
 March 13. — From Hadgi-Ali Kiui to Menovgat, four hours: 
 weather rainy. Crossed the large river of Menovgat at one hour short 
 of the town, which is situated in the midst of fields and gardens, in a 
 fertile district, watered by many rivulets. The surrounding valleys 
 are well cultivated and inhabited. Distant mountains appear to the 
 north and east ; and to the N. W. is the steep range which rises from 
 that side of the gulf, and extends from Cape Khelidoni to Satalia. 
 Price of a sheep at Menovgat, eight piastres, equal to twelve shillings 
 sterling ; four fowls for a piastre. 
 
 March 14. — Detained at Menovgat for want of horses. 
 March 15. — From Menovgat to Dashashehr, six hours. These 
 two days were frosty, and perfectly clear. The road passes at the 
 same distance from the sea as before, but winds for the most part 
 through deserted valleys, where the rich soil, and the rains which have 
 lately fallen, have made the road deep and difficult. There is seen 
 abundance of the cattle which is brought for pasture in the winter 
 and spring from the mountainous districts of the interior ; at intervals 
 are several villages, with a scanty cultivation around them. Dash- 
 ashehr is situated upon some rocky hills, commanding a view of the 
 sea ; and the cottages have gardens, and orchards, and plantations of 
 vines and fig-trees attached to them. The great range of mountains 
 is seen at a distance, twenty or thirty miles to the northward. The 
 whole of this part of Pamphylia seems to be a succession of fine 
 valleys, separated by ridges branching from the mountains, and each 
 watered by a stream of greater or less magnitude. 
 
 March 16. — From Dashashehr to Stavros, six hours, through a 
 vast plain of the richest pasture, in which was an abundance of oxen 
 and sheep. At the end of two or three hours they cross a large river, 
 by a bridge built upon the ruins of a magnificent antient bridge, one 
 arch of which, still standing, forms a part of the modern work. They 
 pass several other smaller streams. In the last half of the road a heavy
 
 ASIA MINOR. 257 
 
 rain had inundated the plains in several places. The villages are 
 numerous, and the population consists entirely of Turks, who are 
 hospitable and inoffensive. 
 
 March 17. — From Stavros to Satalia, six hours. The first half 
 over the same kind of road, inundated in many places. At the end of 
 two hours they cross a large and rapid stream by a ferry, a little be- 
 yond which, appear on the left the ruins called by the Turks Eski- 
 Kalesi, where are great remains of walls and vaulted buildings. The 
 road passes from thence over a more elevated level, with a dry soil, 
 nearly as far as the walls of Satalia, at one hour short of which it 
 crosses a very deep and rapid stream *, dividing itself into several 
 branches, from which there are artificial derivations for irrigating the 
 gardens and cultivated fields around Satalia. Besides the two princi- 
 pal streams just mentioned, the road crossed several smaller, par- 
 ticularly one between those two, the banks of which are thickly 
 sheltered with trees, and where is a solid antient bridge, its summit 
 level with the banks. Satalia, called Adalia by the Turks, is a large 
 and populous town, which, though governed only by a Motsellim, is 
 considered as one of the best governments in Anatolia, the district 
 being large and fertile, and the maritime commerce extensive. The 
 town is situated around a circular port ; behind it, on a height, is a 
 castle, built with battlements and square towers. In the suburbs, the 
 houses are dispersed amidst orange groves and gardens, and thus oc- 
 cupy a large space of ground. Granite columns, and a great variety 
 of fragments of ancient sculpture, found about the place, attest its 
 former importance as a Greek city. Among other remains are those 
 of an aqueduct, extending the whole length of the suburbs, but now 
 
 • In passing by sea from Alaia to Castel Rosso, I was obliged to follow the coast of 
 the gulf of Satalia, the sailors being afraid, in this season, of crossing directly to Cape 
 Chelidoni. This practice of the Greek sailors has always been common, and was anciently 
 expressed by the word xxTxxo^irl^ui. After having been detained three days in the mouth 
 of a river, to the westward of Menovgat, I passed within sight of the mouth of the river 
 of Palca Satalia, and I observed that it discharged itself into the sea by a perpendicular 
 fall over a high cliff. This singularity seems to prove that it was the ancient Catarractes. 
 
 VOL. II. L L
 
 258 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 quite ruined and overgrown with bushes. These different objects, with 
 the sea, and the stupendous ridge of rugged mountains on the west 
 side of the gulf, render the place extremely picturesque. 
 
 March 18. — Halt at Adalia. 
 
 March 19. — From Adalia to Bidgikli, seven hours, due north. 
 The road passes over a region of rugged rocks, intersected with hoi- 
 lows full of water. No cultivation is in sight ; to the left the same 
 kind of ground seems to extend as far as the ridge of rocky moun- 
 tains, which borders the west side of the gulf, and to the right as far as 
 the Duden, or river of Satalia, 
 
 Alarch 20. — From Bido-ikli to Karabunar Kiui, nine hours : the 
 first two hours over the same rugged plain not far from the river. 
 The two great ranges on the west and north of the plains of Satalia 
 now approach each other, and at length are only divided by the 
 passes, through which the river finds its way. The road, however, 
 leaves this gorge to the right, and ascends the mountain by a paved 
 winding causeway, a work of great labour and ingenuity. At the foot 
 of it, in the plain, are the ruins of a castle, and of many towers and 
 gateways of elegant architecture, with cornices, capitals, and fluted 
 columns lying upon the ground. Sarcophagi, with their covers beside 
 them, are seen in great numbers, as well in the plains as for a con- 
 siderable distance up the side of the hill. Some of them were of 
 large size, many with inscriptions. At the top of this formidable 
 pass, which was antiently commanded by the city, standing at the 
 foot of it, the road enters an elevated level surrounded with moun- 
 tains, and proceeds along a winding valley amidst rocks and preci- 
 pices, some of which, being quite detached and perpendicular, appear 
 at a distance like castles and towers. The Konak this evenino; was a 
 Tchiftlik (farm and country-house) of the jNIotsellim of Adalia, si- 
 tuated near three small villages on the banks of a rivulet, in a pure 
 air and most romantic situation. The usual spring weather of these 
 climates has now prevailed for some days ; that is to say, showers, 
 often with thunder, in the afternoon and in the early part of the 
 night, with a sky perfectly clear and serene the remainder of the day.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 259 
 
 March 21. — From Karabimar Kiui to Tchaltigchi Kiui, five hours 
 and a half. One hour from the place of departure is a Khan, formed 
 out of the remains of an old building, upon which are angels sculp- 
 tured on either side of a large arched gate. It appears to have been 
 a church of the earliest ages of Christianity. The route continues 
 through valleys of the same description as that of Karabunar Kiui, 
 level and surrounded by barren rocks and mountains. A neighbouring 
 town, called Bidgikli, is said to contain a thousand houses, and has 
 the reputation of refusing quarters to strangers, especially to couriers 
 and persons travelling under the orders of the Porte. This district, 
 however, as has already been remarked in regard to other places 
 having the character of rebellious, exhibits several marks of superior 
 industry, and a better kind of public economy ; good roads and 
 bridges are seen, and large clean pieces of wheat surrounded with 
 ditches or fences. In the mountain not far from Bidoikli are said 
 to be ruins of antient buildings with columns, and sculptured and 
 inscribed stones. A hill which bounds the district of Bidgikli to the 
 north is the limit of the command of the Motsellim of Adalia. At 
 the foot of it is a Khan, formed of some large antient building with 
 fragments of architecture, and ruins of walls in various directions 
 around it. The hill is rugged and extensive, and has on the north 
 side a level much lower than all those lying between it and Satalia. 
 A river flows through it, and there are many villages, among which 
 is that of Tchaltigchi. The people appeared simple and hospitable, 
 and welcomed the travellers by presents of fruit and flowers, which 
 they threw down at their feet, and then departed without saying a 
 word. The villages in the valley are surrounded with fruit-trees, but 
 no oranges, nor lemons, nor olives are seen among them ; and the 
 season here is a month or six weeks behind that of Satalia. AVheel- 
 carriages are used : the wheels being either solid trucks formed of 
 one piece of wood, or of three pieces joined together, and shod with 
 an iron plate turned up at the edges, and thus fixed on without any 
 nails. They had also iron axles, and a box for them to turn in, 
 exhibiting a neatness of workmanship seldom seen in Turkey. 
 
 LL 2
 
 260 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 March 22. — From Tchaltigchi to Biirdur, seven hours and a half: 
 for the first two hours along the valley ; then up a high steep moun- 
 tain, not a mere rock, like the others which the travellers had passed, 
 but haviqg trees, and a soil fit for any vegetation. They passed an 
 insulated valley, where was a rivulet which disappeared in a cavity at 
 the foot of a mountain. The weather was very cold, and four inches 
 of snow lay upon the ground at no great distance above them. After 
 a narrow craggy pass, they entered an open country, which, unlike 
 the level valleys to the southward, was diversified with undulations 
 and slopes. At two hours short of Burdur, they came into a valley 
 full of rocks, thrown about in the wildest manner : some of these 
 were of a kind which looked like bundles of rushes, incrusted with 
 cement, and petrified into a solid mass : in some places the scene 
 around looked like a succession of enormous sand-pits. They passed 
 several water-mills, and saw nothing of the town or lake of Burdur 
 till they were close upon it. The houses are flat-roofed ; the town 
 is large and comparatively well paved, and there is some appearance 
 of wealth and industry in the streets. Tanning and dyeing of leather, 
 weaving and bleaching of linen, seemed to be the chief occupations. 
 Streams of clear water flowed through most of the streets. The 
 country around produces good butter. The salt-lake of Burdur 
 begins at a very short distance from the town, and stretches to the 
 N. and N. W., forming a beautiful picture with its winding shores, 
 its shrubby or bare and rocky capes, and the cultivated lands, nu- 
 merous villages, and woody hills around it. 
 
 March 23. — Detained at Burdur by a violent southerly gale and 
 heavy rain. 
 
 March 24. — From Burdur to Ketsiburlu, six hours. The road 
 along the edge of the lake having been rendered difficult by the 
 rains, they took another nearer the hills. They passed a good deal 
 of arable land, and many villages with abundance of fruit-trees and 
 vineyards. The walnut-trees grow to a great size : on the 22d they 
 saw poplars of six and eight feet in diameter.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 261 
 
 March 25. — From Ketsiburlu to Dombai-ovasi (the valley of 
 Dombai) five hours : the wind north : a sharp frost, and the hills 
 around covered with snow : the road very good, leading at first 
 through rocky hills, but afterwards through a rich valley, where are 
 many villages ; Dombai is the chief and one of the largest. Here 
 they received much civility from the JNIotsellim, whose design in it 
 was to get their interest at the Porte in his endeavours to obtain the 
 Pashalik of Isbarta, a considerable town at no great distance to the 
 eastward. At Dombai they were told of the ruins of an antient town 
 very near, with the remains of columns, inscribed stones, and statues. 
 
 March 26. — From Dombai to Sandakli on the river jNIeinder, 
 distance seven hours, through a fine country variegated with gentle 
 undulations, but bare of wood, except upon the mountains, which are 
 at no great distance on either side. There were several small villages 
 and a good deal of arable land, but the season was still six weeks 
 behind that of the coast : the cold severe with much snow. 
 
 March 27. — From Sandakli to Sitchanli, seven hours: north 
 wind, with ice an inch thick : the road was for the most part hilly 
 and stony, but in some places there were villages and cultivated 
 lands. Sitchanli is in a fertile valley, with many villages around. 
 
 March 28. — From Sitchanli to Altiiu-Tash, nine hours : the 
 country of an undulated form with little wood. They observed 
 several villages, and in many places scattered fragments of antient 
 buildings, but in no one spot any thing that indicated the site of a 
 large town. At Altun-Tash the snow was lying on the ground. 
 The place takes its name, (signifying golden stone,) from some rocks 
 of a yellow colour in the neighbourhood. It stands on the left bank 
 of the river Pursek, the antient Thymbrius, a bianch of the Sangarius. 
 Here were 200 horsemen of the Pasha of Kutaya, who had been re- 
 ducing a rebellious chieftain, and were in the act of dri\'ing away his 
 flocks. 
 
 March 29. — From Altun-Tash to Kutaya, nine hours : at first 
 over a swampy plain, which had been inundated by the rains and the 
 melting of the snow upon the hills, then across the Pursek, which
 
 262 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 between this place and Kutaya forms an S : a high mountain, at the 
 foot of which Kutaya is situated, filUng up the northern part of the 
 S. After crossing the Pursek they passed over gentle hills and a 
 pleasant country. Nearly midway was a fountain and the ruins of a 
 mosque, and antient Greek church. A good gravel road led in a 
 winding direction through a delightful scene of lawns of the finest 
 herbage, adorned with detached trees and clumps of evergreen, dis- 
 posed in a manner which art could not have improved. From hence, 
 after passing a tract of wild cliffs and rocks, which formed a remarkable 
 contrast to the former, they descended a steep hill to the Pursek, 
 here a very deep and rapid river. Having crossed it by a bridge, 
 and ascended a part of the mountain of Kutaya, they proceeded along 
 a dangerous path on the edge of an immense precipice : the moun- 
 tain with its snow-topped summit rising to a great height on the right, 
 and on the left the Pursek taking a large sweep round the base of the 
 mountain. Thus they made almost half the circuit of it before they 
 arrived at Kutava. This is a large town with an antient castle, which 
 stands upon a projecting point of the hill a little above the town. 
 Being the usual residence of the Beglerbeg of Anatolia, Kutaya may 
 in some measure be considered the capital of the province, though 
 much inferior in size to Smyrna, Tokat, and Angura. The Pasha 
 being absent with the army in Syria, the place was governed by a 
 INIotsellim, who furnished the travellers with a Tchaous to accompany 
 them to Constantinople, and orders for horses and other necessaries. 
 Antient coins and gems may be collected in the bazars of Kutaya in 
 considerable numbers. 
 
 March 30. — Halt at Kutaya. 
 
 March 31. — From Kutaya to In-oghi, twelve hours : the weather 
 fine, and the road for the most part good. They soon crossed the 
 Pursek, and passed at first over a flat swampy road, inundated by 
 floods from the mountains ; they then ascended a hill, upon the top 
 of which the rocks appear by their description to have been of a hard 
 and handsome species of breccia. Thus they proceeded nearly half 
 the day's journey :• the scenery sometimes very dreary and barren ;
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 263 
 
 at others grand and picturesque ; but the country no where culti- 
 vated. They then descended a steep slope to the Pursek, which they 
 now crossed for the second time since they had left Kutaya, and pro- 
 ceeded for some distance along its left bank with high steep cliffs on 
 each side ; among these, and along the river, grew a variety of trees 
 and shrubs, particularly evergreens. In one part conical and sharp- 
 pointed rocks arose to a great height, resembling in some places the 
 spires and ornamented sides of Gothic churches. Here the antients 
 had excavated crypts, niches, and sepulchral chambers with doors and 
 windows. After the pass the valley opened into fine meadows, with 
 the river winding through the middle. Soon afterwards the road 
 quitted this valley and turned to the right up another, watered by a 
 small branch of the same river ; then passed through a tract of 
 country where the road winds amidst clumps of evergreens beautifully 
 disposed by nature upon a fine turf, with hills, valleys, and lawns, as 
 in an English park. Here they met a company of Turks coursing 
 with their greyhounds, who made them a present of a hare. They 
 then crossed a ridge, the absolute height of which (though apparently 
 inconsiderable, when compared with the adjacent valleys) was indi- 
 cated by large patches of snow lying upon the ground. The country 
 consists of fine pasture-lands, mixed with good timber-trees. On a 
 long descent from this place they looked down upon an extensive 
 and well-cultivated plain, at the foot of which they arrived at In-oghi, 
 a large village situated on the edge of the plains under the vast preci- 
 pices of a mountain of bare rock, excavated naturally into caverns, 
 and artificially into sepulchral chambers. Some of these in the upper 
 part of the heights, are the abode of eagles, which are seen soaring 
 around them in great numbers. One enormous cavern is shut up in 
 front by a wall with battlements and towers, and seems once to have 
 served as a sort of citadel to the town. 
 
 April 1. — From In-oghi to Shughut, five hours: the weather very 
 clear. The road passes over pleasant hills and dales, where appears 
 a considerable degree of cultivation, interspersed with fine oaks and 
 beeches, and in one place there is a large forest. Some symptoms
 
 264 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 of Spring have begun to appear, but the season is not yet so forward 
 as it was upon the south coast in the beginning of February. Not a 
 tree has begun to bud : the corn is but just above the ground ; and 
 primroses, violets, and crocusses. are the only flowers to be seen. At 
 Shughut the appearance was more wintry than when we passed in 
 January; and the broad summit of Olympus was capped with snow 
 to a much greater extent. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Remarks on the aniient and modern Geography of Part of the Soiithern Coast of Asia Minor, 
 and those Districts of the Peninsula traversed by General Koehler. 
 
 It remains to offer a few remarks upon the comparative geography 
 of the southern coast fi-om Celenderis to Castel Rosso, and upon that 
 of the districts traversed by General Koehler from Satalia, until he 
 fell again into our former route at Shughut. In regard to the southern 
 coast little seems necessary to be said after the publication of the 
 Karamania of Captain Beaufort, who by his survey has given us a 
 clearer knowledge of this coast, hitherto the most erroneously de- 
 scribed of any in the INlediterranean, than we possess of any part of 
 the countries which antient history has rendered interesting to us. 
 It may be worth while, however, to enter a little more minutely than 
 was consistent with the plan of Captain Beaufort, into the antient 
 authorities regarding this coast, for poor and deserted as it now is, 
 the very numerous remains of antiquity which Captain Beaufort dis- 
 covered there, are a proof that it was once one of the most opulent 
 regions of the antient world ; and it is remarkable that in Strabo, and 
 in the anonymous Periplus already mentioned, there exists a more 
 detailed account of this coast than of any other, which has been dis- 
 tinguished by Grecian civilisation. The easiest mode of putting the
 
 ASIA MINOR. 265 
 
 reader in possession of the antient authorities upon the southern coast 
 of Asia INIinor is to give a translation of the description of it by Strabo, 
 subjoining in the notes the parallel authorities of other antient writers. 
 The following is the account of Strabo, beginning from Patara. 
 
 " Patara (1), * * * next to which is JNIyra (2), twenty stades above 
 the sea on a high hill ; then the mouth of the river Limyrus, and 
 twenty stades inland from it, the town of Limyra. On the coast be- 
 tween Patara and Limyra, are many harbours and islands : of the 
 latter the chief is Megiste (3), with a town of the same name. In the 
 interior are Phellus, Antiphellus (4), and Chima?ra, of which last we 
 have already spoken. Then the Sacred Promontory (5), and then the 
 three rugged islands, called the Chelidonise, equal in size, and distant 
 from each other about five stades, and from the continent six stades ; 
 one of them has a port. From hence it is generally thought that 
 Mount Taurus has its beoiimins;. * * * But in truth the mountains 
 are uninterrupted from Peraea (6) of the Rhodians, to the parts about 
 Pisidia, where the mountains are also called Taurus. * * * From the 
 Sacred Promontory to Olbia there remain 367 stades, in which space 
 occurs Crambusa (7) and Olympus : the latter is a large city, and has 
 a mountain of the same name, which is also called Phoenicus (8); next 
 to it is the coast named Corycus (9) ; then Phaselis, a large city with 
 three harbours and a lake. Above it is Mount Solyma. Termissus, 
 a Pisidian city, is situated at the passes of Mount Solyma, where is 
 the ascent into jNIilyas. Hence Alexander destroyed Termissus, 
 being desirous of opening the passes. Near Phaselis are the passes 
 on the sea-shore, through which Alexander led his army. (10) The 
 mountain is called Climax ; it borders upon the Pamphylian sea, 
 leaving a narrow passage along the shore, which when the sea is calm, 
 is practicable to travellers, but when swollen, is, for the most part, 
 covered by the waves. The road over the mountain is circuitous 
 and difficult. Alexander happening to be hei'e in the winter season, 
 and trusting to fortune, attempted to pass before the waves had sub- 
 sided ; the soldiers in consequence had to march the whole day up 
 to the middle in water. Phaselis is a city of Lycia on the confines 
 
 VOL. II. M M
 
 266 
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 of Pamphylla, but does not belong to the community of the Lycians. 
 Thus Homer considers the Solymi as separate from the Lycians. 
 * * * Next to Phaselis is Olbia(ll), a great fortress, and the begin- 
 ning of Pamphylia ; then the Catarractes, a large and rapid river, 
 falling from a lofty rock, with a sound heard at a great distance. (12) 
 Then is the city Attalia, founded by Attains Philadelphus, who 
 also placed another colony in the small city of Corycus, and enclosed 
 a small space around it. It is said that (the position of) Thebes and 
 Lyrnessus are to be seen between Phaselis and Attalia ; and Callisthe- 
 nes informs us that a part of the Trojan Cilices were driven from the 
 plain of Thebe into Pamphylia. Next is the river Cestrus (13), in 
 which is a navigation of sixty stades up the river to Perge ; near it, in 
 a lofty situation, is the temple of Diana PergEea, where a religious as- 
 semblage is held every year. Then, at the distance of forty stades 
 towards the sea, is a lofty city, conspicuous from Perge ; then a lake 
 of a considerable size, called Capria ; and next the river Eurymedon ; 
 and a navigable ascent of sixty stades to the populous city of Aspen- 
 dus, which was a colony from Argos. Higher up lies Petnelissus. 
 Beyond (the Eurymedon) is another river, with many small islands 
 lying before it. (14) Then occurs Side (15), a colony from Cyme, 
 and having a temple of Minerva. Near it is the coast of the lesser 
 Cibyra; then the river Melas (16), and a station for ships; then the 
 city Ptolemais (17), and the boundaries of Pamphylia and Coracesium, 
 the beginning of Cilicia Tracheia. The whole circumnavigation of 
 Pamphylia is 640 stades. 
 
 " Of Cilicia, beyond Taurus, a part is called Tracheia (rugged), and 
 a part Pedias (plain). Of the rugged, the maritime part is narrow, 
 and has very little or no level country ; Mount Taurus rises above 
 it ; being badly inhabited as far as the northern flanks, which are 
 near Isaura, and the Omonadeae, who extend to Pisidia. It is 
 called Tracheiotis, and the inhabitants Tracheiotse. Cilicia Pedias 
 extends from Soli and Tarsus as far as Issus ; and although Taurus, 
 on the northern side of which are the Cappadocians, overhangs it, it 
 abounds for the most part in plains, and a fertile land. Having 
 spoken of the parts within Taurus, we shall now proceed to speak of
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 267 
 
 those without Taurus, beginning M'ith Tracheiotis. The first fortress 
 of the Cilicians is Coracesium, built upon a precipitous rock. (18) 
 Diodotus, surnamed Tryphon, made use of it as an arsenal, when, with 
 varying success, he headed an insurrection of Syria against its kinf's, 
 but at length was forced to put an end to his own life, upon being 
 blockaded there by Antiochus, the son of Demetrius. Tryphon set 
 the example of piracy to the Cilicians, &c. 
 
 " After Coracesium is Sydra(19), then Hamaxia (20), a small in- 
 habited place upon a rock, with a station for vessels below it, from 
 whence ship-timber is exported. The principal is cedar, a wood ap- 
 parently more abundant in these parts than elsewhere, for which 
 reason Anthony gave this region to Cleopatra, as being well suited for 
 fitting out her fleets. Next comes Laertes (21), a fortress situated 
 upon a hill shaped like a woman's breast, and having a station for 
 ships under it ; then the river Selinus ; then Cragus, a rock precipi- 
 tous towards the sea; then Charadrus, a castle, with a station for 
 vessels, above which is the mountain Andriclus ; then a rugged shore, 
 called Platanistus, and the promontory Anemurium. Here the conti- 
 nent lies nearest to the coast of Cyprus, at the promontory Crommyon ; 
 the distance being 350 stades. From the frontier of Pamphylia to 
 Anemurium, the length of the coast of Cilicia is 820 stades, and the 
 remainder, as far as Soli, 500 stades. (22) In this space A^agidus (23) 
 is the first city after Anemurium, then Arsinoe (24), having a station 
 for ships before it ; then the place called Melania, and Celenderis, a 
 city with a harbour. (25) Some consider this place, and not Corace- 
 sium, as the beginning of Cilicia. * * * Next occurs Olmi, where 
 the people of Seleuceia first dwelt, but who after the erection of Se- 
 leucia upon the Calycadnus, emigrated to that place. For immedi- 
 ately after you have turned the shore which forms a promontory, 
 called Sarpedon, is the mouth of the Calycadnus ; near the Calycad- 
 nus is Zephyrium, also a promontory, and the river is navigable up to 
 Seleucia, a populous city. * * * Next to the Calycadnus is the rock 
 Pascile (27), cut into steps leading to Seleuceia. Then is Anemurium, 
 a cape, of the same name as the former, and the island Crambusa, and 
 
 M M 2
 
 t268 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 the promontory Corycus, 20 stades above which is the Corycian cave. 
 * * * Next to Corycus is Eleusa, an island near the shore. The 
 town was founded by Archelaus, and became his residence when he 
 took all Cilicia Tracheia, except Seleuceia, in the same manner as 
 Amyntas had it before him, and still earlier Cleopatra. * * * The 
 boundary of Cilicia Tracheia is between Soli and Eleusa, at the river 
 Latmus, where is a town of the same name. * * * Beyond Latmus 
 is the important city of Soli, the beginning of Cilicia Issensis founded 
 by the Acheans, and the Rhodians of Lindus. To this place, being 
 in a deserted state, Pompey the Great removed such of the pirates as 
 he thought most worthy of clemency and protection, and named the 
 place Pompeiopolis. * * * Next occurs Zephyrium, of the same 
 name as that at Calycadnus ; then Anchiale, situated a little above 
 the shore. * * * Above it is the fortress of Quinda, where the Mace- 
 donians formerly kept their treasures. Above this place and Soli are 
 mountainous districts, where is the city Olbus, with a temple of Jupi- 
 ter, founded by Ajax, the son of Teucer. * * * Next to Anchiale are 
 the mouths of the Cydnus, near the place called Rhegma. In this 
 place, which resembles a lake, were antiently naval arsenals ; it is 
 now the port of Tarsus. The river Cydnus, running through the 
 middle of Tarsus, flows into it. * * * The sources of this river are not 
 far distant from Tarsus. 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 (1) Patara has lately been visited, and thoroughly exploded, by the Mission 
 of the Society of Dilettanti, under tiie direction of Sir William Gell. 
 
 (2) Myra still preserves its antient name. 
 
 (3) The reading which substitutes Mzyla-rrt for Kio-^vyj in Strabo, is supported 
 by the collateral authorities of antiquity, and has been achnitted by all the 
 commentators. Taking it for granted, therefore, that the modern Kaste- 
 loryzo is Megiste, as being the largest island upon this coast, Rhope, which, 
 according to the Anonymous Periplus, in the passage cited below, was 50 stades
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 269 
 
 to the west of Megiste, answers to Aghios Georgios. The island of Kakava, 
 by its form and position, corresponds equally to the Dolichiste of * Stephanus. 
 
 (4) Strabo is inaccurate in placing Antiphellus among the towns h rji jxe- 
 o-oya.'a, in Contradiction to Ptolemy, Pliny, and the author of the Anonymous 
 Periplus. There can be no doubt of the ruiils on the coast opposite to 
 Kasteloryzo being those of Antiphellus, the name being still preserved hi 
 the corrupted form of 'Ai/t.'^ iXo?. Many of the Sarcophagi, moreover, stUl pre- 
 serve Greek inscriptions, where may be perceived the word 'AvTipWelrns, which 
 is found to be the gentile adjective in Stephanus Byzantinus. 
 
 (5) The name of the Chehdoniic insula? has been transferred to the Sacred 
 Promontory, which is now called Cape Khehdhoni. The following is the 
 description of the coast between Patara and the Sacred Promontory, in the 
 Anonymous Periplus, wliich travels in an opposite duection to Strabo, or 
 from east to west : — 
 
 'Alto ii 'Isgaj axga: sv) raf XeXiSovi'a; vrj<Tou; tTTctl. X. (30). 
 
 'Am ti MsXaviWjjj ;ij Fayaj crraS. f. (6o). 
 
 'Am ii MsXaviW)),- S15 Ta(xoy aXfxugov <nal. ^. (60) • v-rrlg (jTal. f. xsirai ttoXij 'AAjiAuga. 
 
 'Atto MeAaviWrjf elj mgyov to "Io-iov Ka.Kouft.ivov <rrud. f. (60). 
 
 'Am TO~j 1(tIov mgyo'J sij 'ASgiax^v trTaO. f. (60). 
 
 'Am 'Aigiux-fii £15 2(<'jU.r,vav a-Txi. I. (4). 
 
 'Am 2o'|X>]vav eif 'AtTsgKac (lege 'Amgai) (TToS. f. (60). 
 
 'Atto ' AxgaiTfiglotJ el; 'AvrltuKkov <TTai. v. (50). 
 
 'Am 'AvTtpiWov el; vr}(Tov Msy5(rrr;v oraS. v. (50). 
 
 'Atto MeysVTrjf si; vijcrov Po'7n)v crraS. v. (^o). 
 
 'Am PoTTYji Ei; Hsvayo'gou vr,(rouf (TTai. t. (sOO). An error. 
 
 'Airo Esvayopiu vrjtraiv si; Huragav OTaS. J. (60). 
 
 Of the places here mentioned, Gagae was of some celebrity, t It is shown by 
 Scylax, and by Pliny t, to have been in the district to the west of Olympus, and 
 north of Cape Hiera ; and as the Anonymous Periplus places it at 90 stades 
 from the latter, it may be concluded from Pliny, and the Theodosian Tables, 
 that it was in the way from the Sacred Cape to Corydalla, a large town, of 
 which coins are still extant §, and which was 29 M. P. from Piiaselis, 
 in the way to Patara, the road undoubtedly leading through the remarkable 
 pass which lies behind Olympus. Andriace, the port of Myra II, mentioned 
 
 • Plinii, 1. 5. c. 31., and Ptolem. 1. 5. c. 3. 
 
 t Stephanus Byzantinus, with the notes of Holstein. :j: Lib. 5. c. 27. 
 
 § See Eckhel Doc. N. V. H Appiani Bell. Civ. 1. 4. c. 82.
 
 270 ^SIA MINOR. 
 
 also by Pliny, is still called Andraki. Apyrae, which appears from Ptolemy 
 and Pliny to have been upon this coast, and from the Anonymous Periplus 
 to have been between Andriace and Antipliellus may have been at the head 
 of the fine bay of KakaAU. 
 
 (()) The dependencies of Rhodes on the opposite shore of the continent 
 formed a district called PeraBa. 
 
 (7) Still called by its antient name slightly corrupted, Karabusa. 
 
 (8) In the same book Strabo remarks, that all Lycia, Pamphylia, and Pisidia 
 were visible from this mountain, and that it was the fortress of a celebrated 
 pirate, named Zenicetus. 
 
 (<)) The anonymous Periplus describes the places between Attaha and 
 Cape Hiera as follows : 
 
 'Atto ' ArraXucti Itti p^ioplov Tev=Sov crai. x. (^-^•) 
 
 'Am TsvlSou sic A'j|5va-/Ta X"'P'°^ ''^"■^' ^' i^^'^ '^^§ ^^ woXftof opo; jj-sya, inrBfxsiTxi <l>as-iAij' 
 Ix 8s <I>a<r(XiSoj el; Kcopoxov (ttoS. 
 
 'Am Kwmxou km tov <t>oii/txovvTci (TTal. A. (30.) (nrsg ft-iyu opo; ui/ri^ov xfiTui 'OXufiTroj 
 xx\o'ju.=vov. 'Ex is 4>a(riX(ioc s-!r' evisix; si; Kpajj-Sovcrxv (XTcii. g. (lOO.) 
 
 'Am Kpaju-SoutT);: Itti yiipa; IIocnSapKrouvTOf (TTaS. X. (30. J 
 
 'Am YIociimctiTOuvTO; stt) Mcupv uSaip xaXou|X=vov oraS. X. (30.) 
 
 'Am McupoO fjiuTO; Itti axpav 'Ispav xa] vr^uw X=Xi5oviav 0"Ta2. v. ( JO.) 
 
 Upon comparing this passage wth the text of Strabo, it appears that the 
 mountains above Olympus and Phaselis were sometmies known by the same 
 names as the cities ; and were sometimes called Pha;nicus and Solyma, 
 though the latter name more properly belonged to the whole ridge which 
 extended 70 miles to tlie northward. Captain Beaufort chscovered the re- 
 mains of Olympus at Deliktash, and of Phaselis at Tekrova. It is curious 
 that in the inscriptions which he found at Olympus the name of the people 
 is wiitten OATXnHXOl, whereas on the coins it is constantly written OAT.M, 
 with M. Lp-nas marks the site of the antient Homeric city of Lyrnessus. 
 
 (10) Arrian relates the same incident in the following words : " Alexander 
 moving from Phaselis sends part of his army through the mountain to Perga, 
 the Thracians pointuig out the road, which was difficidt ; but not long. 
 Those attached to his person were led by liimself along the sea-side. Tliis 
 road cannot be used, except when the wind is northerly ; when the south 
 wmd blows, it is impracticable. "WTien Alexander arrived tliere, a north 
 wind, succeeding to Wolent south winds, rendered the passage sliort and easy, 
 an accident, which by Alexander and his court was considered as the inter-
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 271 
 
 ference of some deity." These two accounts are well illustrated by the actual 
 appearance of the coast, whicli rises like a steep wall from the sea-shore, from 
 near Cape Avova to the western corner of the plain of SatiUia. Arrian in 
 saying tliat the detour of tlie mountams was not long from Phaselis to tht' 
 plains where Perge was situated, shows that there was a passage over Mount 
 Solyma not far from Sataha, for Alexander was not yet in possession of Ter- 
 missus, which commanded the principal pass of Mount Solyma, and the 
 detour that way instead of being short would have been very long. 
 
 (11) The position of Olbia is still uncertain, but when it is considered that 
 Attalia, like the other foundations of the successors of Alexander, was pro- 
 bably only a renovation of the town, which stood upon the most advantageous 
 position of this part of the coast, and that Strabo's expression of (xsya ep/xa, 
 applied to Olbia, will not easily suit any other than the fine situation which 
 Satalia now occupies, it may be conjectured that Attains built his new town 
 upon the site of Olbia. This conjecture is in some measure confirmed by the 
 author of the Anonymous Periplus, and by Pliny ; the former of whom makes 
 no mention of Olbia, nor the latter of Attalia. Strabo indeed mentions both, 
 but it may easily be believed that his text is incorrect ; for in placing Attalia to 
 the eastward of the Catarractes, he is equally at variance with Ptolemy, with 
 the evidence of the modern name of Satalia, and with the author of the 
 anonymous Periplus, whose description of the coast between Coracesimn and 
 Attalia is as follows : 
 
 'Am Kopaxr)(riou si; Aovijcriv Itti ^(^uipwv 'Ava^iov (7TaS. tt. (SO.) 
 
 'Awo 'Avafiav sif ^mpiov xxKoufx-evov Auyaf oTaS. o. (70.) 
 
 'Awo Auytuv Itti axpiuTTipiov AmxoSeiov (ttoS. v. (-50.) 
 
 'Am AeuxoSeio'u d; K6Sspvav <rTai. v. (-50.) 
 
 'Am Ku§£f>v>)5 Itti 'ApTSft/Soj vaou (rrai. v. (jO.) 
 
 'Am 'AeT6/x(8of vaou Itti 7roTcifi,ov ttXcutov MIXavov <7TaS. ^. (9.) 
 # * * 
 
 A011TOV rTa/xipuXia. 
 
 'Am Tov MsXavoj vorafji.ori el; Si'Sijii tnaS, v. (50.) 
 * * # 
 
 'Am 2iS>]; si; "S.eKevxsictv trraS. tt. (SO.) 
 
 'Am 2eXsux£ia; =1; TToraftov TrXtorov xci\o6iJ.svov Etipuju-eSovra (rraS. g. (lOO.) 
 'Am Kuvoo-flp/ou Itti TroTa/xo'v xaXo'uju.svov Kea-rpov a-ToZ, J. (60.) avaxXsuravri tov voTUfMV 
 TToXi; scTTi Ylepyyj tou KscTpov Itti PoutrxoTroSa. 
 
 'Am Pouo-xo'ttoSo; Itti Macroupav xal Tob; KarappaxTct; (rraS, v. (oO.) 
 'Am Moi<7o6p!it; ei; Muy8aX>)v oraS. 0. (70.) 
 Am MuySaXaiii eJ; 'ArraXsi'av oraS. 7. (lO.)
 
 272 -^S^^ MINOR. 
 
 (12) Pomponius Mela gives a similar description of the Catarractes : — 
 " Deinde duo validissimi fluvii, Cestros et Catarractes : Cestros navigari 
 facilis ; hie quia se prtecipitat ita dictus. Inter eos, Perga est oppiduni." 
 Tlie Anonymous Periplus affords a still more accurate allusion to its present 
 state, by using the plural tov; KuTappuxras, the Cataracts, The river on 
 approaching the coast divides itself into several branches, which in falling 
 over the cliffs that border the coast from Laara to Adalia, form ui)on their 
 upper part a mass of calcareous deposition, projecting considerably beyond 
 the perpendicular line of the cliffs. Through the calcareous crust, the water 
 makes its way to the sea, and being thus separated into several streams by a 
 natural process which has been rapidly increasing in its operation in the 
 coiu'se of time, the river has now no determinate embouchure (as it may 
 perhaps have had in former ages,) excepting after heavy rains, wlien, as I 
 saw it in passing along the coast, it precipitates itself over the cliffs near the 
 most projecting point of the coast a little to the west of Laara. Besides the 
 natural phajnomenon which divides the Catarractes into separate streams, its 
 main stream is further diminished by the derivations which turn the mills 
 and supply water to the gardens and town of Satalia. The ruins which 
 Captain Beaufort observed at Laara seem to answer to the Masura of the 
 Anonymous Periplus, or the Magydis of Ptolemy. 
 
 (13) Although the antient geography of the coast of Pamphylia cannot be 
 thoroughly illustrated until the position of its chief towns is examined and 
 ascertained, there seems little doubt that the four rivers mentioned by Strabo, 
 namely, the Cestrus, the Eurymedon, a third river not named with islands 
 before it, and tlie Melas, are accurately fixed by the survey of Captain 
 Beaufort, and the route of General Koelder, confronted witli Strabo, the 
 Anonymous Periplus, Zosimus *, and Pomponius Mela, t The Cestrus 
 is that which General Koehler crossed at two hours to the west of Stavros, 
 and the ruins which he had on his left hand in crossing it seem to be those 
 of Perge. The Eurymedon is called Kcipri-su, a name derived from the 
 antient city of Capria, which appears to have stood at a distance of about 
 two mUes from the sea, upon the banks of a lake of the same name, which 
 occupied a part of the maritime region between the Eurymedon and Cestrus. 
 The name of Kapri has, by a common process, been transferred from the 
 lake to the neighbouring river Eurymedon. The remains of Aspendus should 
 
 * Lib. .5. c. 16. f Lib. 1. c. 14.
 
 Asia minor. 273 
 
 be found at six or eight miles from the mouth of the Euiymedon, on a lofly 
 precipitous height on the banks of the river. * Higher up was Petnelissus : but 
 the most important discovery in this part of the country would be Selge, a 
 colony of the Lacedaemonians, situate on the frontiers of Pisidia and Pam- 
 phylia, in a very fertile district, difficult of approach, in the upper regions 
 of Mount Taurus, near the sources of the Cestrus and Eurymedon.t Paul 
 Lucas heard of great ruins at Durdan near Isbarta. 
 
 (14) There can be little doubt that the river without a name here men- 
 tioned, is that which is marked on the map between Side and the Eurymedon, 
 although instead of any islands before it, nothing is now seen but some rocks 
 below or even with the water's surface. In proceeding by sea from Alaia to 
 Castel Rosso, I remained for two or three days in the mouth of this river, in a 
 two-masted vessel of Alaia of about 50 tons. It is the only river which affords 
 shelter, or even entrance to a boat, the Cestrus and Eurymedon, although 
 much larger streams, being now closed by bars. It is very probable that the 
 remains of Sylleium would be found upon the banks of the river, for which 
 we have no name either anticnt or modern ; for Sylleium appears from 
 Scylax to have been situate between Side and the Eurymedon, and from 
 the narrative of Appian X to have been at no great distance either from Side 
 or from Aspendus. It appears also from the Anonymous Periplus that half 
 way between Side and tlie Eurymedon there stood one of the numerous 
 places named Seleuceia, unless this be a mistake for Sylleium. 
 
 (15) The tine ruins of Side have been described by Captain Beaufort. Its 
 site is decisively fixed by the inscriptions found there. Though the Turks 
 are so ignorant as to give it the name of Eski Adalia (Old Attalia) the name 
 of Side was not unknowTi to their geographers 150 years ago, being men- 
 tioned by Hadgi Khalfa. The Greeks give the name of UaXaia 'S.a.To.kla. to the 
 ruins of Perge. 
 
 (16) The words of ZosimUS, (toD Ms'Xavo; xai tou Eupu/xs'Sovro; mv o fxlv svixeivx 
 
 SiaSai'vei t^j 2i8i)r o li happei rji ' Ao-Trevlw, 1. 5. c. l6.) and the distance of 50 stades 
 east of Side, at which the Anonymous Periplus places the Melas, are decisive 
 when added to the evidence of Strabo and Mela, in fixing the Melas at the 
 Menovgat-su. 
 
 • Pomp. Melse, 1. 1. c. 14. Arrian Ex. Alex. 1. 1. c. 27. 
 
 f Strabon. Geog. p. 570. Dionys. Perieg. v. 358. Arrian. de Exp. Alex. lib. 1. c. 28. 
 
 X Appian. Hist. lib. I. c. 26. 
 
 VOL. II. N N
 
 274 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Cape Karabuniu being the only remarkable projection upon this coast, 
 must be the Leucotheius of the Periplus, though the modern name implies 
 black and the antient white. 
 
 If the KuSspvct of the Periplus is the same as the Little Cibyra of Strabo, 
 as we can hardly doubt, there is a manifest tUsagreement between the two 
 authorities in regard to the position of its territory. It is probable that the 
 text of Strabo is in fault, and that the territory of the Lesser Cibyra should 
 follow rather than precede the Melas ; for it is difficult to believe any other 
 territory than that of Side should have been interposed between so large a 
 city and a river which was only seven miles distant from it. The vestiges of 
 Cibyra will probably be found removed at some distance from the coast, a 
 few mUes to the eastward of MenoAgat. Ptolemy * is positive in placing it 
 among the inland towns of Cilicia Tracheia } Scylax names it as a city of 
 Pamphylia, near Coracesium. 
 
 (17) As no other author makes mention of this Ptolemais, and as its name 
 is not found in the Anonymous Periplus, it may be conjectured that it did not 
 stand upon the coast, but occupied, perhaps, the situation of the modem 
 town of Alara, where is a fine stream, and upon its banks a steep hill crowTied 
 with a Turkish castle. 
 
 (18) The testimonies of Strabo, Ptolemy, Scylax, and the Anonymous 
 Periplus, concur in placing Coracesium at Alaia, the extraordinary situation 
 of which town upon a rocky promontory, precipitous on one side, and on the 
 other extremely steep, is well suited to that fortress, which held out against 
 Antiochus the Great, when all the rest of the coast of Cilicia had submitted 
 to liim. Coracesium was one of the positions which particularly assisted hi 
 supporting the spirit of piracy upon the coast, and it was the last where the 
 pirates ventured to make any united attempt against the fleet of Pompey, 
 before they separated and retired to their strong holds in Mount Taurus. 
 For the history of the pirates the reader may consult Strabo, the Mithridatic 
 wai" of Appian, who gives an account of their reduction by Pompey, and 
 Plutarch's life of the same Roman commander. But notwithstanding 
 Pompey's triumph, they continued to exercise their trade until a late 
 period, for we learn from Constantine Porphyrogennetus t, that in the 
 tenth century. Side was still the work-shop of the pirates (to tuv ■Ksipariov 
 Ipyaar^piov). Their success in the time of the Romans was owing to the 
 
 * Ptolem. Geog. lib. 5. c. 5. f De Theniat. 14.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 275 
 
 commodious ports and strong positions of the coast, to the strength of Mount 
 Taurus behind, and to the frequent disputes of the Kings of Cyprus, Egypt, 
 and Syria, among one another, and with the Romans ; which made it oc- 
 casionally the interest of every party to support the Cilician cities in piracy 
 and independence. Thus, like the Barbary states in tlie present day, the 
 opportunity was afforded them of collecting plunder and captives from every 
 vessel and shore that was unable to resist them. The sacred island of Delos 
 became the entrepot of their trade ; and the increasing luxury of the 
 Romans gave encouragement to the commerce in slaves. 
 
 (19) Lucan * calls Syedra a port. Floras describes it as a desertum 
 CilicijE scopulum ; yet its copper-coins are not uncommon t ; and it shared 
 with Coracesium a fertile district along the coast, wliicli, although narrow, 
 is not to be equalled by any other in Tracheiotis, except the valley of the 
 Calycadnus. 
 
 (20) Notwithstanding the apparent precision of Strabo in this passage, the 
 situation of Hamaxia is still doubtfld ; for in the AnonjTnous Periplus, where, 
 though there are frequent interruptions, false spellings, and false distances, 
 the order of names is generally more to be depended upon than in Strabo, 
 Anaxion or Anaxia is placed at 80 stades to the westward of Coracesium, 
 thus nearly answering to the ruins upon a hill, near the coast, where Captain 
 Beaufort found remains of antiquity. Unfortunately, Hamaxia is not men- 
 tioned by any other author. 
 
 (21) The follomng is the description of the coast between Coracesium and 
 Anemurium, by the Anonjinous Periplus : — 
 
 'Atto Is ^ Avefj-ouglou sif UXaTavouvnt (rraS- tv. (350). Error. 
 
 'Ato nXaTavoSvTo; Elf ^ojgi'ov XagaSgov ora?. tv. (350). Error. 
 
 'Trrsg 8; XagaSgou xsirai opo; ftsya AvSpoxof xa\ovfj.svos am CTai. \. 
 
 'Alto ToiJ XagaSgou Itti ymqiov Koayov xaXoujaEVOV (rraS. g. (lOO). 
 
 'Awo Toi3 Kgayou Itti ^aigiov In) SuXaa-irrjs, ZefsXiouf (lege Ns^eAewj) OTaS. x£. (25). 
 
 'Atto tou Zs^sXi'oo Itti axgav Nrjo-ia^oua-ijf (tto^. tt. (SO). 
 
 'Atto Nijo-ia^oufl-)); axpa; ?if SeXivouvra trraS. §. (lOO). 
 
 * * _ # 
 
 'Am AaegTou eij Kogaxj^iriov (ttoS. p. (lOO). 
 
 The distance between Selinus and Laertes is wanting ; but the order of names 
 being the same as in Strabo, and the preser\-ation of the antient appellations, 
 SeUnus, Charadrus, and Anemurium, being decisive of those tliree points, the 
 
 Pharsal. lib. 8. v. 259. f Eckhel, Doct. Num. Vet. 
 
 N N 2
 
 276 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 whole coast, from Coracesium to Anemurium, is very well ascertained. The 
 ruins to the westward of Kharadia, upon a hill exactly answering to Strabo's 
 description of Cragus, leave little doubt either of theii" being the remains of 
 the place which Strabo meant, or of its being the Antiocheia super 
 Crago of Ptolemy, which he mentions next to Selinus. The promontory 
 Nephelis, rendered illustrious by an antient treaty of the * Athenians 
 which has not reached us, can be no other than the Cape which lies to the 
 westward of Antiocheia two or three miles, a distance answering exactly to 
 the 25 stades of the Anonymous Periplus. With this evidence it can scarcely 
 be doubted that Ptolemy improperly inserts Nephelis between Antiocheia and 
 Anemurium. 
 
 (22) These numbers are obviously incorrect j perhaps they should change 
 places, the distance from Coracesium to Anemurium being about GO nautical 
 miles, and from Anemurium to Soli 100. 
 
 (23) Nagidus, a colony of the Samians t, appears from its silver X coins 
 to haA e been antiently one of the chief places of this coast ; afterwards 
 giving way, perhaps, to the neighbouring position of Anemurium, which was 
 better adapted to be one of the fortresses and ports of the pirates. The two 
 theatres, the aqueduct, and other ruins at Anemurium, show that it chiefly 
 flourished under the Romans. 
 
 The river Aiymagdus, placed by Ptolemy between Anemurium and 
 Arsinoe, seems to be the same as the Salassis, which, according to 
 Pliny, flowed from Isauria into the sea of Anemurium. § The latter name 
 was probably derived (as we so often find instanced in other parts of Greece) 
 from the region Salassis, upon its banks, in which Ptolemy mentions Nineia, 
 as the only town. The river is now called the Direk-Ondasi ; it joins the 
 coast five miles north-eastward of Cape Anamur, at the Castle of Anamur. 
 The following are the places between Anemurium and Celenderis, according 
 to the Anonymous Periplus : — 
 
 'Atto KsXsiilegeca; el; MavSav>jv (TTaZ. g. (lOO). 
 
 'Awo MavSavr); Itt' axgoJT^giov Tlo(re'Siov xaXou/xsvov trraS. ^. (7). 
 
 'Atto Mav8av»)5 Itt! t«5 Aiovu(7io^avou; oraS. K. (SO). 
 
 'Am AiovWTiopavovs el; Vuyixavou; (qU. 'AgUftaySouf ;) oraS. v, (50). 
 
 'Airo Puyjxavajv el; 'Avffiouoiov a-ra^. v. (50). 
 
 (24) This Arsinoe is named by Pliny, Stephanus, and the Geographer of 
 Ravenna, the last of whom, in giving the names in this order, Anemurium, 
 
 • Liv. Hist. lib. 33. c. 20. -'•' f Pompon. MeliE. lib. 1. c. 13. 
 
 t See Eckhel, Hunter, &c. J Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. 5. cap. 27.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 277 
 
 Arsinoe, Sicas, Celenderis, corroborates Strabo and Ptolemy, and justifies us 
 in fixing Arsinoe at Sofia- Kalesi. The name of Syce or Sycea is also found 
 as a Cilician town in Athenaeus *, and Stephanus Byzantinus ; and if' the 
 emendation of Scylax, by Gronovius, may be followed, it was very near 
 the promontory Poseidium, wliich being placed in the Anonymous Periplus, at 
 about half way between Anemurium and Celenderis, accords very well with the 
 only remarkable Cape in this space, now called Kizliman. 
 
 (25) The author of the Anonymous Periplus gives the names and distances 
 between the mouth of the Cidycadnus and tlie gulf of Berenice, which, as he 
 indicates no interval between it and Celenderis, seems to have been the bay 
 in which Celenderis is situated. 
 
 (26) The promontory of Lissan-el-Kahpeh being very accurately described 
 in the Anonymous Periplus by the words Sixgxv a/xjiuiS)) o-rev^v, seems to leave little 
 doubt of its being the Cape Sarpedonia, celebrated as being the place beyond 
 which the ships of Antiochus were forbidden to sail, by his treaty with the 
 Romans. We are confirmed in this belief by Ptolemy, Strabo, and the Anony- 
 mous Periplus, who all place the mouth of the Calycadnus to the eastward of 
 Sarpedonia. It would appeal- also that the projection of the coast at the 
 mouth of the Calycadnus was the Cape Zepli}Tium, of Strabo and Ptolemy ; 
 for Appian t in mentioning Cape Calycadnus, evidently means this pro- 
 jection of the coast, and the Anonymous Periplus does not notice any Zephy- 
 rium on this pail of the coast, naming only the mouth of the Calycadnus at 
 80 stades to the east of Cape Sarpedonia. Pliny t in like manner omits Cape 
 Zephyrium, stating the order of names as follows : — " Calycadnus, pro- 
 montorium Sarpedon, oppida Olme, Myle, promontorium et oppidum Veneris, 
 a quo proxime Cyprus insida." 
 
 The situation of the city of Venus, here given, agrees with that ascribed to 
 Aphrodisias, by Ptolemy and the Anonymous Periplus, from whom it appears 
 to have been situated between Celenderis and Sarpedon, on the part of the 
 coast which lay nearest to Cj'prus, and about north of Cape Aidion, in 
 that island. Aphrodisias, although unnoticed by Strabo, is mentioned 
 by Stephanus Byzantinus, by Diodorus §, and by Li\y. 1| It is difK- 
 cult, however, to discover the exact situation of this city, from the con- 
 fused account of the places between Celenderis and Sarpedonia, in the 
 Anonymous Periplus, but supposing the gulf of Berenice to have been the 
 
 • Athen. Deipnos. lib. 3. cap. 5. f Appiani Syriac. lib. 3. c. 39. 
 
 % Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. 5. c. 2". § Diodor. Sic. lib. 19. c. 61. 
 
 II Livii, Hist. lib. 33. c. 20.
 
 278 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 same as the bay of Celenderis, it seems probable that Aphrodisias, being 
 marked at I70 stades from the gulf of Berenice, and at 1'20 from Cape Sar- 
 pedonia, (and the sum of these two distances is pretty nearly the correct 
 distance between Cape Lissan-el-Kahpeh and the bay of Kelenderi,) shoidd 
 be sought for at rather more than half way between the two, at the harboiu- 
 of Porto Cavaliere, the cape on the outside of which, called Cape Cavaliere, 
 is in fact the most projecting point of the coast, and may be said to lie nearly 
 opposite to the eastern extremity of Cj'prus, now Cape St. Andrea, and 
 antiently Cape Aulion. 
 
 The small stream which joins the sea, between the bay of Kelenderi and 
 the island of Papadula, being the only stream found in the part of coast under 
 consideration, seems to have been the Melas of the Periplus. 
 
 Olmi, which appears from Strabo, Pliny, and the Periplus to have been to the 
 eastward of Sai-pedonia, and from the last-mentioned authority to have been 
 at the same distance from Sarpedonia that Seleuceia was, namely 120 stades, 
 will fall at or near Aghaliman. Myla?, which is placed by Pliny and the 
 Periplus between Olmi and Aphrodisias, was probably on the coast opposite 
 the island of Proven9al, for the Periplus informs us that the island of Pityusa 
 was 20 stades from the cape or peninsula of Myla, and 45 stades from Aphro- 
 disias, distances which agree very well with the respective distances of the 
 isle of Proven9al from the main land opposite to it, and from Porto Cavahere. 
 
 (27) The following are the places which occur on the coast betAveen the 
 river Pyramus, now the , and the Calycadnus, according to the 
 
 Periplus : — 
 
 'Am Tou nupaj«.ou woTafiou- eufluSgojoiouvTi etc ScoXou; * * * g-raS. (f. (500). 
 'Arro T^j xsfaXJjs roii Tupa/Aou Itti tov YloTafi-ov" Aquov cTaS. gx. (l20). 
 'Atto 'Agslou TToru^t-m I'm crrofx-aTo; XijU.y>]5 o xaXsiraf P^yju.oi <rrai. 5. (70). 
 'Am Prjy/xtuv slj Tccgcov UTai o (70.) • pe'fi 8<a fJi-ecij; 1^5 ttoXscoj itOTait.Oi KuSvOf. 
 
 ***** 
 
 'Am TO\t Kopax>](7iou Itti t^v IloixiXrjv IlsTpctv, ^tij Ij^ei xXluuxa, Si tji loriv oil; si; 2eXeu- 
 xsi'av rf/V stti Auxou, a-ral. 0. (70). 
 
 Here it will be observed, 1. That the distance of 500 stades from the river 
 Pyramus to Soli, is the same as that given by Artemidorus. * 
 
 2. The relative situations of the rivers Areius and Rhegmis how that the 
 Areius is the same as the Sarus of other authors. The lake of Rhegma is 
 now filled up with sand and alluvial soil. 
 
 3. That the Periplus exactly confii-ms the steps in the rock leading from the 
 
 • Apud Straboncm, p. 675.
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 279 
 
 rock Psecile to Seleuceia. Upon the whole, however, the author of the Peri- 
 plus adds httle on this part of the coast to the description of Strabo, and few of 
 liis distances correspond to the actual measurement. The modern names of 
 Koryhos (Corycus), Lames (Latmus), and Tersous (Tarsus), with the fine 
 ruins of Soli or Pompeiopolis, at Mezetlu, are the principal landmarks, and 
 render it easy to fix most of the places. 
 
 Sebaste, which Ptolemy places between Corycus and the river Lamus, is 
 the same as Eleusa, as appears from Stephanus Byzantinus, and from Jose- 
 phus * ; it received the latter name when it became the residence of Archelaus, 
 king of Cappadocia. Zephyrium may be placed at the small projection of 
 the coast which exists at the mouth of the river of Mersin ; for this falls not 
 very far from the distance of 120 stades from Tarsus, at which the author of 
 the Periplus places Zephyrium : his distance of 70 stades from Tarsus to the 
 mouth of the Cydnus is equally near the truth. 
 
 The route of General Koehler, from Satalia to Shughut, traverses a part of 
 Asia Minor, upon which antient history tlirows little light. Arrian'st March 
 of Alexander from Pamphylia to Gordium, in Phrygia, and Livy's t Account 
 of the Progress of Cneius Manlius, in his Expedition from Cibyra into Pam- 
 phylia, and from thence by Sagalassus to Synnada and Galatia, are the only 
 historical documents. The itineraries supply little or nothing, and Strabo has 
 scarcely done more than point out the boundaries of the provinces. The 
 passage of Livy, just alluded to, is very detailed, and may hereafter be ex- 
 tremely useful in giving us a knowledge of the antient geography of the 
 country ; but while we are still ignorant of the exact sites of Sagalassus, 
 Apameia Cibotus, and Synnada, very little certain information can be derived 
 from it in regard to a single route. There are three points in General Koeh- 
 ler's road that may be considered certain, or at least very nearly so ; these are, 
 Termessus, Taba?, and Cotyaeium. The great ruins at the foot of the pass, 
 which leads over the mountains, on the north side of the plains of Satalia, seem 
 clearly to be those of Termissus, which, next to Selge, was the largest of 
 the Pisidian towns, and was situated at the passes of Mount Solymus, leading 
 into Milyas, and thence to Sagalassus and Apameia. Milyas being on the 
 confines of Pamphylia, Pisidia, and Lycia, and occasionally assigned to each 
 of these provinces §, agrees exactly with the elevated region traversed by 
 General Koehler and his party, when they had mounted the pass which I 
 
 • Joscphi Antiquitat. lib. 16. c. 4. f L.I. c, 27, 28, 29. 
 
 :|: L. 38. Cl3, 14, 15. § Strabo, p. 630, 631. Ptolem. 1.5. c. 5.
 
 280 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 supposed to be the Termessian. It is here to be observed, that there can 
 be Uttle doubt that Arrian has improperly called the Termessus of Mount 
 Solymus Telmissus, an inaccuracy which, uncorrected, throws much obscurity 
 on his narrative. On the coins of Termessus, that city is called the greater 
 Termessus, to distinguish it from another Pisidian town of the same name. 
 
 It can hardly be doubted that Dombai is a corruption of Tabae, scarcely 
 indeed a corruption, as it is no more than the broad and rustic pronunciation 
 of the antient word TiSai. Tabae appears from Strabo to have been in the 
 country between the Upper Marauder and Phrygia Paroreius, which is exactly 
 the situation of Dombai. The fertile district now called the Dombai-ovasi, 
 or valley of Dombai, agrees equally well with the TctSrivhv ttISiov, which, ac- 
 cording to the geographers, lay on the borders of Phrygia and PisicUa. We 
 may suppose, therefore, that the ruins which the travellers heard of near 
 Dombai were those of Taba;. 
 
 It may here be remarked that the enumeration by Strabo of the principal 
 plains in the western part of Asia Minor may be serviceable in deciding the 
 site of several of the cities. These plains were, the Caystrian, the Cilbian, 
 the Hyrcanian, the Peltine, the Cillanian, and the Tabene. The salt-lake 
 of Burdur is evidently the lake Ascania, which Alexander passed on his 
 way to Celaenae, after having reduced some of the strong places of Pisidia : 
 for Arrian observes, that salt was formed spontaneously in the lake Ascania ; 
 and Pliny remarks that the upper surface of the water was fresh while the 
 lower was nitrous. 
 
 Sandakli seems to correspond in position, as it does in name, with San- 
 dalium, a town lying between Cremna and Sagalassus, which last was one 
 day's journey from Apameia Cibotus. The river called the Meinder-su 
 which runs by Sandakli, may, perhaps, be that branch of the Mseander 
 antiently called Obrimas, the fountains of which were something more than 
 a day's journey from Synnada towards Apameia. 
 
 The very remarkable ruins noticed by Paul Lucas, twelve or fifteen miles 
 after he had turned out of the route of General Koehler to go to Isbarta, 
 would be well worthy of a more particular examination. They may possibly 
 be those of Cremna, which is the more likely to have preserved some con- 
 siderable remains, as having been a Roman colony. The situation of these 
 ruins, on the side of a steep mountain, agree moreover with Strabo's de- 
 scription of the site of Cremna. But it is unnecessary longer to detain the 
 reader with what must be mere conjectiu'e, until some of the sites of the towns, 
 especially those of Apameia and Sagalassa, are decisively determined.
 
 281 
 
 SOME PARTICULARS RESPECTING THE POLICE OF 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 [COMMUNICATED BY MR. HAWKINS.] 
 
 Among the various objects of enquiry whicli merit the attention of 
 travellers at Constantinople, there is none, perhaps, of more import- 
 ance to an Englishman than the police of that great capital ; and the 
 following particulars respecting one of its departments, which I col- 
 lected there in 1797, may be thought to possess at this period a more 
 than ordinary interest. 
 
 Although by the ]\Iahometan law theft is punishable with death, 
 (and it is well known in how summary a manner, according to this 
 law, judgment is pronounced and executed,) yet the government here 
 have thought it more expedient for the good of the public, to connive 
 in some measure at this crime ; and with this view they have ap- 
 pointed an officer to superintend this particular department of the 
 police, under the title of Zyndan Hassekisi (keeper of the prison), who 
 in fact is no other than the head or chief of the thieves. 
 
 This chief is selected from the corps of the JMumgi (servants of 
 the Aga of the Jannissaries), and his office, which is venal, and costs 
 2300 piastres, is held so long only as he is considered capable of dis- 
 charging its duties ; his incapacity being deduced from his inability 
 to apprehend any thief whose person is sought after. 
 
 The organization of this singular branch of the police is as follows : 
 Every thief on his first apprehension has recourse, through the 
 medium of his friends and of presents, to the Zyndan Hassekisi, 
 who employs all his interest with the higher powers to save his life, 
 and to cause him to be transferred to the Bagnio, or great prison of 
 the Arsenal, from whence after some time he procures his discharge. 
 
 VOL. ir. o o
 
 2g2 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 In the mean time, the name of tliis new thief, every particular 
 which is thought to be characteristic of his person, and his favourite 
 mode of thieving, are noted down with great accuracy in the registers 
 of the Zyndan, from which moment he is constituted a regular 
 member of the fraternity. A thief who has not in this manner put 
 himself under the protection of the Zyndan Hassekisi, is sure to be 
 executed the very first time he is convicted. 
 
 The thieves who are subject to this sort of supeiintendance are of 
 both sexes, and of every age and country. They disguise themselves 
 in a variety of ways, assuming every character from the mendicant to 
 the man of rank ; and, in short, exercise their professional talents here 
 as systematically, and with less hazard than in any other great capital, 
 although, as will be seen by what follows, with less profit. 
 
 Both the Zyndan Hassekisi and the other officers of the Zyndan, 
 consider themselves as greatly beholden to any person who lays an 
 information before them of his having been robbed ; because not only 
 he who has actually committed the robbery is obliged to give them a 
 portion of the effects stolen, but even he who is innocent of it, and 
 is apprehended merely on suspicion, cannot obtain his release without 
 paying for it. As the last case may occur as often as the Zyndan 
 Hassekisi pleases, the thieves carefully avoid falling in the way of 
 this officer, through fear of being detained on the slightest pretexts 
 or grounds of suspicion ; well knowing that at all events they would 
 be made to pay for the recovery of their liberty. 
 
 It may be proper to observe that the Zyndan Hassekisi from the 
 circumstance of his having been selected from the corps of tlie Alumgi, 
 is necessarily a person of some experience and ability in this line of 
 employment, and is fully acquainted with his duties. Now as every 
 thief is known to excel in some particular way ; for instance, one is 
 noted for his dexterity in forcing a door, another for his skill in 
 picking locks, another for his address in openly entering a house on 
 some pretext or other ; the person who com.es to the office to give 
 information of his having been robbed, is closely interrogated as to 
 all the particulars. Whereupon the Zyndan Hassekisi summons
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 283 
 
 before him all those thieves who are known to pursue that line of 
 their profession, and the guilty person is soon discovered and brought 
 to a confession. The stolen effects are then recovered ; notwith- 
 standing which, if the person who has been robbed do not fee well 
 the Zyndan Hassekisi, he obtains the restitution of no part of his 
 property; for the Zyndan Hassekisi, who becomes the depositary of 
 these effects, divides them in reality with the thief and some of the 
 persons in office, particularly the Assas Bashi. It is supposed, for 
 these reasons, that the thieves at Constantinople receive not more 
 than one-fourth of their booty ; the remaining three quarters being 
 partitioned among the officers of the Zyndan. 
 
 Should any one discover the effects he has been robbed of, it 
 matters not in whose possession they may be, or what time may 
 have elapsed, he is entitled by the law to take possession of them, 
 after proof given of their having been stolen ; and the person in 
 whose hands they were found cannot sue liim for any compensation ; 
 first, because according to the Mahometan law he can claim restitution 
 of the money which he had paid for these effects from no other 
 person than he who sold them ; and secondly, because, should he 
 persist in withholding these effects from the reclaimant, he would 
 subject himself to an accusation of his having been an accomplice 
 with the thief. 
 
 Nevertheless those who purchase gold and silver for the mint, as 
 well as the venders of copper utensils, are particularly exempted by 
 a firman from this obligation to restore effects stolen. The jewellers 
 and goldsmiths likewise once possessed a similar privilege, although 
 it was restricted to effects which had been purchased at their real 
 value. This last-mentioned firman having been little acted upon for 
 many years past, has now nearly lost all its authority, and some 
 endeavours are makins to set it renewed, which it is thought will 
 prove successful. 
 
 The above is nearly a literal statement of the information which 
 was given to me at Constantinople, and I believe it to be authentic. It 
 follows, that travellers, like De la Motraye, are mistaken in supposing, 
 
 o o 2
 
 284 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 from the rarity of those cases where theft is punished, that the 
 crime itself is unusual there. * 
 
 To what particular nation these privileged thieves mostly belong, I 
 neglected to enquire ; and the population of this vast city is so 
 heterogeneous, there is here such a colluvics gentium, that it would 
 be difficult to form a conjecture : but I cannot help remarking in this 
 place, that the Turks of genuine descent have been always justly 
 esteemed for their honesty. 
 
 Nor is it possible, I believe, to ascertain how long this state of 
 things has subsisted ; for the police of Constantinople is scarcely 
 noticed in any of the numerous books of travels which I have con- 
 sulted. I suspect, however, that the Turks have, in this instance, as 
 well as in many others, adopted the practice of their predecessors ; 
 and should this view of the subject be correct, it may not be easy to 
 assign any limits to the antiquity of the system ; for we learn from 
 Diodorus Siculus that something very like it prevailed in Egypt. 
 The account which he gives is as follows : — 
 
 " The Egyptians have a very singular law respecting thieves. 
 Those who are disposed to follow this way of life, are obliged to 
 have their names entered in the register of the head or chief of the 
 thieves, to whom it is understood that they are to bring directly, and 
 without delay, whatever they have stolen. Those who have been 
 robbed are likewise required to specify to him, in writing, what they 
 have lost, stating the place from whence, and the day and hour when 
 it was taken away. In this manner all the effects are recovered 
 without trouble, and the person who has been robbed, after paying a 
 fourth of their value, gains possession of them. For since it was 
 found to be impossible wholly to put a stop to the practice of 
 thieving, a way was found out by the legislator of recovering what 
 was lost on the payment of a moderate price of redemption." — L. 1. 
 
 * " As for thieves, there are so few otthem, that 1 did not hear of twenty who suffered 
 at Constantinople during almost fourteen years that I was in Turkey." — De la Motraye's 
 Travels, vol. i. p. 1 88.
 
 285 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF A VERY ANTIENT TEMPLE 
 ON MOUNT OCHA, IN EUBCEA. 
 
 [COMMUNICATED BY MR. HAWKINS.] 
 
 Form and Appearance of the Southern Coast of Euhcca. — Object of the Visit to that Part 
 of the Island. — Carysto. — Ascent of the Mountain St. Elias. — Quarries of Carystian 
 Marble. — Remains of a Greek Temple on the Summit of the Mountain. — Observatioiis 
 relating to the Structure and Character of the Building. — Conjecture respecting the Name 
 of the Deity to xxhom the Temple was dedicated. — Exte7isive Viexs} from the Summit of 
 St. Elias. — Population of the District. 
 
 The navigation of the Archipelago resembles, in many respects, that 
 of the Hebrides ; the two seas are equally interspersed with rocks 
 and islands, or intersected by promontories. The land, too, rises on 
 all sides into mountains of great elevation ; and the aspect of both 
 countries would be equally uninviting, were it not for the advantage 
 which one of them enjoys, of a superior climate. The scenery of the 
 Grecian Archipelago derives from this circumstance a beauty and 
 charm which are denied to the Caledonian ; and it is owing to this 
 cause, perhaps, aided by a more powerful association of ideas, that the 
 descriptions which travellers have given us of these shores, are, iipon 
 the whole, so seducing. 
 
 The passage northwards through this diversified scenery, in a ship 
 of burden, with the Cyclades on the right, and the shores of the 
 Peloponnesus and of Attica on the left, leads through the straits 
 which separate Eubffia from Andros, the scene of so many disasters 
 in antient times. Here ships are not unfrequently stopped by ad- 
 verse winds, and constantly assailed by currents of air, which blow 
 round Cavo d'Oro (the Capharean promontory). * This, in fact, is 
 
 • NDv Ss Kaipa/>5uj ISicoTixwrepwf Hu^olpayof x«Xcit«i. Tzetzes ad Lycophr. v. 373.
 
 286 EUBCEA. 
 
 regarded by the Levant sailors as the most dangerous part of their 
 navigation : for there is no sheltered retreat at hand ; and the horrors 
 of shipwreck are heightened by the inhospitable character of the 
 natives of this mountainous promontory. Numerous stories are re- 
 lated of their rapacity upon these occasions ; and the life of a ship- 
 wrecked mariner is said to be little regarded if it be an obstacle to 
 its gratification. 
 
 The whole appearance of this coast, which forms the southern 
 extremity of Euboea, corresponds with the savage reputation of its 
 inhabitants. It rises boldly from the sea into a high dorsal ridge ; 
 the flanks of which, more especially those on the north, exhibit a 
 frightful succession of chasms and precipices. The summit of the 
 mountain is so elevated as to be usually shrouded in clouds, the broad 
 shadows of which cover its upper region. This was precisely the 
 effect produced by the state of the weather, as I approached Cave 
 d'Oro from the north on the 11th of September. * The scene was a 
 most striking one, independent of its classical interest : it was nature 
 in her wildest, grandest aspect. 
 
 I continued my voyage along this desolate coast, which is swept by 
 every wind that blows, until I reached the bay of Carysto. The 
 object which induced me to visit a place of such evil repute, and so 
 little frequented, was the ascent of the mountain that crowns this 
 great promontory. I had fixed upon this very high point (the Ocha 
 of antiquity) f as a very important station for delineating the con- 
 tiguous coasts, and combining my larger triangles ; nor had I then a 
 conception of the very interesting discovery which I was destined to 
 make there. 
 
 On the forenoon of the 12th I visited the Waivode of Carysto, 
 and made preparations for ascending the mountain ; but the wind 
 
 * 111 the year I 79". 
 
 f Kapj-os 8s Ifiv uvo Tu> of!t Tji "O^Yj. Strabo, lib. x. 
 
 Kai Op^i) he 6X«A,8iT0 q v^iroj* xai es"(i/ o/Atuvo/iiov aiirrf to fieyij-ov rcov svraZ^a. opwv. Ibid.
 
 EUBCEA. 
 
 287 
 
 which rose in the evening, just after my return to the vessel, blew a 
 violent gale in the night, and continued, with no abatement, the 
 whole of the next day. In this interval it was impossible to land ; 
 and as the vessel more than once drifted from her moorings, we were 
 in imminent danger of being driven on some rocks which lay at a 
 very short distance to the leeward. 
 
 The circumstances which occasioned our distress were singular : 
 perhaps unexampled. My Greek captain had evinced some want of 
 confidence in the security of this bay before our arrival here ; to 
 which I had paid no attention ; for we appeared to be so completely 
 sheltered from the JMeltem wind *, then blowing by the ridge of 
 Mount Ocha, and there was so little chance at that season of a wind 
 from any other quarter, that I felt no apprehension of danger. What 
 then could exceed my surprise and consternation, when the whole 
 fury of the JMeltem poured down upon us from the ridge above, its 
 force having been concentrated, as I conceive, by the hollow form of 
 the coast on the opposite side of the island ? I had often experienced 
 the effect of very violent gusts of wind in sailing along a mountainous 
 coast ; but this was a continued blast for the space of 30 hours, which 
 would have tried the strength of the stoutest cable. Had there been 
 a swell we could not have held by our anchors a single minute, so 
 great was the strain upon them. To add to our distress, we had at 
 this critical period a broken rudder ; and the Turkish inhabitants of 
 Carysto, who bear a very bad character, were seen assembled on the 
 beach, in momentary expectation of witnessing our destruction. 
 
 At six o'clock on the morning of the 14th we took advantage of 
 the first abatement of the gale, to weigh our anchors ; and, putting 
 right before the wind, in a few hours we fortunately reached the 
 harbour of Zea. Here a new rudder was procured, and as it was 
 impossible, while the JMeltem continued, to execute what I had in 
 
 * This is the modern name of the Etesian among the Greek sailors, perhaps a cor- 
 ruption of Beltempo; but the term |3op;«5, Voreas, is universally adopted on the continent 
 of Greece,
 
 288 EUB(EA. 
 
 view at Cai*ysto, I resolved to proceed to the southward until the 
 usual change of the season. On the 19th of October, soon after this 
 had taken place, I once more anchored in the bay of Carysto. 
 
 The following day, the weather threatening, I sent my servant 
 ashore to make the necessary preparations for my expedition. On 
 the 21st I visited the Waivode, who congratulated me on my escape, 
 and the Bishop of the diocese, who lamented most feelingly the 
 barbarous and anarchical state of the country ; after which 1 pro- 
 ceeded, on a mule, to the summit of the mountain (now called 
 St. Elias). * The ascent from the town was attended with some 
 difficulty. We had not proceeded far before I descried the marks of 
 some antient quarries, and on the side of our road lay seven entire 
 columns, apparently on the spot where they were quarried. One of 
 these measured 13 feet in length by 4 feet 3 inches at its base, and, 
 except the last polish, which it had never received, it was in a finished 
 state, and ready for removal. Here then, without doubt, were the 
 celebrated quarries of Carystian marble f ; the nature of which I had 
 thus an opportunity of ascertaining. It proved to be the Cipolino 
 of the Roman antiquaries. There is a gradual descent the whole 
 way from this spot to the beach, which is three miles distant ; the 
 columns, therefore, after being incased in wood, to defend them from 
 injury, might have been rolled to the place of their embarkation. 
 
 The principal excavations seem to have been immediately above 
 the castle hill, and in a direct line between it and the summit of the 
 mountain. ^Vlien we had surmounted the rugged heights where 
 they first occurred, the marble disappeared, and the strata wliich 
 
 * This denomination is now given to many of the higher mountains of Greece. 
 
 f In the time of Strabo the quarries of Carystian marble were at Marmarium, iv w, 
 savs he, to Xarontov rwv Ka.pv?-luiv xlovcuv. Stephanus Byzantinus, however, places them 
 at Carystus. These entire shafts were probably destined for some building at Rome ; for 
 Pliny, quoting the account which Nepos gives of Mamurra's house, says that the columns 
 were of marble, " et omnes solidas e Carystio aut Lunensi." A very great number of 
 these columns are still preserved at Rome.
 
 
 ^ic r
 
 Interior Fuw of the WistWallwith the Doorway andpartofthe Roof. 
 
 T 
 
 A hxrt ot the Roof. 
 B lifiiel of the Doorway. 
 C . Cena-al Cornice^ of tJwInUricr. 
 Tia 1 St ? .Actions shen-ing th:- .■■• <"/■■ •'^fhcRoof /mJ- forrtire' 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 1 
 
 * Grounil Flan, of the Cell 
 
 1 
 
 □ 
 
 '■/I. 
 
 t'^'c/r M^-' ci>^//'2^ii^ 
 
 ' sfU^m-^ oT i^^-' ^^:Ly^'^/M-i€^ a?i-' 
 
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 ^^m.^ 
 
 /!.)/'>' I. ^ hi:. i (T i,.'7i.pn.ir! .^'(},'n'.iu-<-s-..'^7'u- .\ jP. 't\n-.L~.!rt-/ri,\iiiff x^
 
 EUBCEA. 
 
 289 
 
 succeeded, wholly consisted of gneiss. A scanty and withered forest 
 of chesnuts, clothed the mid-region of the mountain. 
 
 I now gradually approached the summit, which was composed of 
 several distinct craggs, or rather ledges of rocks ; one of which 1 soon 
 made choice of as a station for my drawings and trigonometrical 
 operations. In the narrow interval between this and the next ledge, I 
 saw, what at the first view might be mistaken for a ruined Greek chapel ; 
 no unusual object of occurrence in similar situations. But what was 
 my astonishment, when, on a nearer approach, I discovered in this ruin, 
 the remains of a Greek temple, of a most antient and peculiar con- 
 struction ! I must refer the reader to the annexed engraving for a 
 view of this building, and the character of the wild scenery which 
 accompanied it. It is certainly the very last situation where the 
 ruins of a temple might have been expected. 
 
 Pausanias speaks of the altars of Jupiter, which were on the sum- 
 mits of several mountains ; but mentions only one instance of a 
 temple in such a situation, the dilapidated remains of a temple 
 dedicated to the Cyllenian Mercury : nor can it be said that the 
 temple of Apollo Epicurius was so situated ; although its site is un- 
 questionably a very elevated one. I had visited the summits of so 
 many of the highest mountains of Greece, without meeting with any 
 vestiges of antiquity, and was so little prepared to expect a discovery 
 of this kind in a spot so difficult of access, that for some time I could 
 hardly believe the reality of the venerable object of antiquity which 
 presented itself to my view ; the total absence of columns, and the 
 usual decorations of temples, having occasioned some degree of 
 ambiguity. JNly doubts, however, vanished by degrees, the more I 
 examined the plan of the ruin, and the various details of its con- 
 struction. These the reader will find very accurately exhibited in 
 the annexed engravings; and the information which they convey, 
 will probably suggest to him the following reflections. * 
 
 * Perhaps 1 have given my readers credit for more skill in practical architecture than 
 they can be supposed to possess ; and have laid claim myself to more than is my due : but 
 the fact is, that I am indebted to Mr. Robert Smirke for this masterly developement of 
 
 the construction of the building. 
 
 VOL. II. P P
 
 290 EUBCEA. 
 
 The roof is simply a covering of stone which is made to support 
 itself, and of which no example is known. 
 
 That part of the roof which lies upon the walls, counterbalances 
 the weight of that which is between them ; or in other woi-ds, is 
 sufficient to counterbalance that part which projects inwards and 
 forms the ceilinff. 
 
 The eastern wall was probably built a little thicker, in order to 
 counterbalance the slabs, that on this side were not bevilled away 
 and notched, as those were on the west. 
 
 The inclination of the slabs answered two purposes ; first, to throw 
 off the rain ; secondly, to throw the weight more upon the wall. 
 
 The opening between the opposite projecting stone must have been 
 about two feet, which was probably covered with a ridge stone ; the 
 whole being covered with slab stones, of which there are plain indi- 
 cations in the view. 
 
 In short, the whole roof appears to have been an affair of calcu- 
 lation ; and plainly denotes a considerable progress having been made 
 in the art of building. 
 
 Had Pausanias extended his Itinerary to Euboea, he would have 
 completed the plan of his invaluable work on the Antiquities of 
 Greece ; and we should not now be at a loss for the historv of this 
 temple. In the absence of any direct information concerning it, we 
 must content ourselves with conjectures. According to Stephanus 
 Byzantinus, Mount Ocha was the scene of an event in the mythologi- 
 cal history of the Gods, the memory of which might have been conse- 
 crated by a dedication of a joint temple to Jupiter and Juno. It is 
 however more probable, that the temple here existing has been dedi- 
 cated to Neptune ; for Strabo, speaking of Gera^stus, which was almost 
 at the foot of the mountain, says, " It has likewise a temple of Nep- 
 tune, which is the most distinguished of all those which are * here," 
 
 * s^et S" Ugiv IToo-siSaJvo; l7ri(ri)|«.oTaToy riuv TauTj)' upcii which the editors of the French 
 Scrabo observe, " Strabon n' auroit il voulu parler que de divers temples de Neptune 
 situes dans Ic voisinage de Gerasstos ?"
 
 EUBCEA. 291 
 
 nieauing, I suppose, '• in this part of tlie island:" and I cannot help 
 suspecting, when I consider that the disasters which befell the Grecian 
 fleet on the Capharean promontory, were ascribed to the anger of 
 Nauplius, the son of Neptune ; that the whole of this mountainous 
 promontory was in a peculiar manner consecrated to the same divinity. 
 These, I believe, are all the facts or notices which can throw any lio-ht 
 upon the history of this temple ; and it must be confessed that they 
 lead to no very satisfactory conclusions. 
 
 I shall now revert to the narrative of my proceedings. The re- 
 mainder of the day was fully employed in delineating and measuring 
 the ruins, and in the use of the sextant. At a late hour we descended 
 to a mandria, or sheep-fold, where a quantity of wood being collected, 
 my attendants kindled a large fire, round which we passed the night, 
 wrapped in our capots, and stretched on the bare ground. 
 
 Early the next morning I returned to the summit, where I com- 
 pleted the measurement of my angles ; but the clouds which gathered 
 fast on the north side of the mountain prevented me from making an 
 accurate delineation of the line of coast beneath, which comprehended 
 the famous Coela of Eubcea. Of all the other interesting objects 
 around, the very elevated point on which I stood, and the clearness 
 of the atmosphere, enabled me to have a distinct view. Scio was just 
 within the reach of vision ; and by the aid of a telescope annexed to 
 my sextant, I combined its position with that of the islands near me. 
 The form of Andros appeared as if it were delineated on a map, so 
 completely was it overlooked from this lofty station. In the evening 
 I descended to the beach, where 1 found my boat's crew waiting to 
 take me on board. 
 
 As Carysto is so little known, I shall here add a few particulars re- 
 specting this district, which I collected chiefly from the bishop of the 
 diocese. 
 
 It contains 1400 Greek, and 1600 Turkish families. The inhabi- 
 tants have assumed the right of appointing their Waivode, who is at 
 present (1797) the elder brother of the famous JNIustapha Aga. 
 The latter has, in the course of a few years, rendered himself 
 
 pp 2
 
 292 EUBCEA. 
 
 master, by force, of most of the villages on the north side of the town ; 
 and no stranger is suffered to take the farm of a spahilik, or of an ex- 
 cise tax, in the whole district. 
 
 Carysto is a simple bishopric, which, on account of the barbarous 
 state of society here, remained unoccupied, from the period of the 
 conquest of the island until the present bishop made a purchase of 
 the see ; of which he heartily repents. The diocese reaches as far as 
 Avlonero and Petriais. 
 
 But the most remarkable circumstance in the history of this dis- 
 trict is what I have now to mention. There are five villages on the 
 northern flanks of the mountain, near Cavo d'Oro, the inhabitants 
 of which are branded with the appellation of Acrianides and Bur- 
 mades, to distinguish them from the iNIahometan and Christian popu- 
 lation of the mountain. The men speak Albanian, like the rest, and 
 are of Christian origin, although they profess Mahometanism. This, 
 however, their forefathers appear to have embraced through restraint, 
 or merely with a view to exempt themselves from the Karatch or poll- 
 tax ; for they conform to none of the essential practices of the Ma- 
 hometan faith. On the other hand, they seem to have lost, by a long 
 disuse of the Christian worship, their belief in Christianity ; and, in 
 fact, with the exception of a few superstitious practices of the Greek 
 church, which they have retained, they are considered as appertaining 
 to neither sect. Tlieir women, however, still profess Christianity, 
 and this is perhaps the reason why the men have each a Christian 
 name coupled with the ISIahometan ; by the former of which, alone, 
 they are distinguished among their countrymen. 
 
 The names of the five villages inhabited by these semi-apostates, 
 are Kalianu, Platanistos, Adia, Gramisi, and Kapsuri, each of which 
 contains, on an average, from twenty to thirty families. 
 
 These people are said to be of such a savage and inhospitable cha- 
 racter, as even to murder those who escape from the wrecks of the 
 vessels that are driven on the coast, in order tliat they may divide the 
 spoil with more chance of impunity. They chiefly subsist by the 
 care of their flocks, and are a hardy, bold race of mountaineers. I
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 293 
 
 brought away with me a shepherd's crook, as a memorial of their 
 muscular strength, as well as of their rude simplicity of manners. It 
 is five feet ten inches long, by five inches and one half in girth, and 
 is truly a most formidable weapon. 
 
 TRAVELS THROUGH PART OF THE ANTIENT COELE SYRIA, 
 
 AND SYRIA SALUTARIS. 
 
 [FROM THE PAPERS OF LIEUTENAXT COLONEL SQUIRE.] 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Tripoli. — Situation of the Town. — Roadstead. — Cmimeice. — Turkish Sepulchres. 
 
 Different Bmtes from Tripoli to Balbcc. — Cultivation of the Districts inhabited by the 
 
 Maronites. — Arrival at Baitroun. — Interview with a Prince of the Druses. Balbec. 
 
 — River Chrysorrhoas. — Remains of Sculpture on a Rock. — Daviasats. — Structure and 
 Form of the Houses in that City. — Distribution of Water iu the Vicinity of the 7o-mi. — 
 Mosque. — Bazars. — Sepdchres. — Departure from Damascus. — Cteifa. — Lake formed 
 by the Orontes. — Termination of the Northern Part of Libatius Hems. — Greek In- 
 scription. — Haviah. — Mode of raising Water for the Supply of the Town. 
 
 April 15. 1802. — Towards sunset we have a magnificent view of 
 the mountains in Syria, consisting of an extensive range of lofty hills, 
 terminated by Carmel to the south ; to the north we see Libanus, a 
 complete mountain of snow ; here the form of the land plainly indi- 
 cates the valley of Coele Syria *, while in the center of the landscape 
 
 * " The plain of Bekka, is the Coele Syria Proper, of the antient historians : it is 
 bounded on the other side by a ridge of mountains, Antilibanus, parallel to Mount Liba- 
 nus." — Bruc^s Journey to Balbec. See Murray's Life, p. 191.
 
 294 SYRIA. 
 
 the hoary Antilibanus raises itself in the most majestic manner above 
 the whole. 
 
 April 16. — At noon, the latitude by observation was 34" 20 . At 
 half-past five P. M., we bring up in the bay of Tripoli, in four fathom 
 water. 
 
 April 17. — It blew a heavy gale last night from the W. S. W., with 
 occasional squalls of rain. At four A. M. there was a lunar Iris in 
 the north-east. Yesterday evening a boat came from the shore, and 
 we sent our names to a Greek merchant, who resides as English Con- 
 sul at Tripoli. 
 
 April 18. — The weather became more moderate ; at nine A. M. 
 we receive a note from the Consul, requesting us to come on shore in 
 our own boat, and not to have any communication with the inhabi- 
 tants ; as seven or eight persons had been lately attacked by the 
 plague at Tripoli. He stated that at Latakia, between which place 
 and Tripoli, there is constant intercourse, 3000 had died in three 
 months ; and that he had put himself in quarantine for fifteen days 
 past. He had sent his secretary, Mr. Laurella, to meet us on the 
 beach with a Janissary, who conducted us to the house of the Consul. 
 
 We were told that the inhabitants of Tripoli are in a frequent state 
 of rebellion, disagreeing with the Pashas appointed by the Porte. 
 About two months since Yousuf Pasha was compelled to make his 
 escape to Cyprus ; and at present the town is governed by Mustapha, 
 Aga of the Janissaries. Those who were of the party of JMustapha 
 having gotten possession of the citadel, obliged the Pasha to retire to 
 that quarter of the town which is towards the Marina : he remained 
 in a small house with his troops in the neighbourhood, until he saw 
 there was no safety for his person but in flight ; he therefore, after 
 plundering every house he had possession of, took advantage of 
 a dark night, embarked on board a small vessel, and landed at 
 Cyprus. 
 
 April 1 9. — We told the Consul that we wished to see the envi- 
 rons and situation of the town, and that we would be particularly 
 cautious not to touch any of the inhabitants. The secretary accom-
 
 TRIPOLI. 
 
 295 
 
 panying us with the Janissary, we passed towards the south end of 
 the town, and ascended the hill near the citadel, on the river. 
 
 Tripoli is situated along the base of a triangular plain, having for 
 its vertex a flat promontory towards the sea : the base runs nearly in 
 a north and south direction, is about two miles long, and is bounded 
 by a- rocky height ; immediately under which the town of Tripoli 
 extends itself three-fourths of a mile in length, and three hundred 
 yards in breadth ; the north side of the triangle is about one mile in 
 its extent ; the southern about three-fourths of a mile ; each of these is 
 bounded by the sea. On the flat promontory, on the north side of which 
 is the place of anchorage, is the Marina, of the size of a small town, 
 where the vessels discharge and receive their cargoes. Between the 
 point of the promontory and the mouth of the river Kadisha (the 
 Holy) are six square isolated towers, placed at irregular distances 
 from each other : they stand immediately on the sea ; appear to be 
 of Saracen construction ; and the lower part of their walls, as at 
 Alexandria, is fortified with fragments of grey granite columns, 
 placed horizontally in the building. The whole of the plain is 
 planted with trees, and chiefly the mulberry, the food of the silk- 
 worm ; for here silk is the principal article of commerce : the nopal, 
 or prickly pear, also abounds. In the plain of Tripoli there is a 
 quantity of stagnant water, and as it is necessary in the summer 
 season that the mulberry plantations be constantly watered, noxious 
 vapours arise, which in the hot months render the situation un- 
 healthy in the extreme. The mulberry trees are planted with the 
 greatest regularity ; and at this season of the year the silk-worms are 
 deposited in the ground in little huts, composed of reeds and the 
 branches of trees. The river Kadisha, which traverses the town and 
 discharges itself into the sea at about the center of the northern side 
 of the triangle, enters into the plain through a beautiful narrow 
 valley : it is a shallow rapid stream at its junction with the sea, and 
 by no means practicable for boats. The citadel, which commands the 
 town, as well as the plain below, is built on the south side, and 
 immediately close to the Kadisha, where it enters the town : it is
 
 296 SYRIA. 
 
 apparently an old Saracen building, in a wretched state, and mounted 
 with a few guns ; and is commanded by a height on the north side of 
 the river, and only 150 yards distant. Tripoli has no other fortifi- 
 cation : the town has gates, but is merely enclosed with the walls of 
 the gardens. A short distance east of the citadel, and on the same 
 side of the river, is a convent of Dervises, in one of the most 
 agreeable situations that can be imagined : it is close to the Kadisha 
 in a deep valley surrounded by orange and mulberry groves, besides 
 poplars and many other trees and shrubs, which render the air 
 fragrant, and the coup d'ceil exceedingly pibturesque. 
 
 The road oi' Tripoli does not afford very safe anchorage for ship- 
 ping : the bottom is composed of rocks, and large stones, which, when 
 the wind is fresh, rub and wear the cables. It is protected in some 
 degree by a line of small islands, which project more than a league 
 west, from the point of the promontory. These shelter the shipping 
 from the south, and south-west winds, very prevalent during the 
 winter along the coast, and at intervals blowing most tempestuously. 
 Ships coming from the southward are obliged to pass to the westward 
 of all these islands, unless they are acquainted with a narrow passage 
 between them. 
 
 The Chameleon, an English sloop of war, when in the road of Tri- 
 poli, used to anchor at the mouth of the river, at no great distance 
 from the shore, because the holding ground was preferable to that 
 near the Marina. Northward of the road of Tripoli, the coast rims 
 in a north-westerly direction, as far as the projecting island of Raud, 
 the antient Aradus j perhaps five or six leagues distant from Tripoli. 
 
 Before the war, (for since that period the commerce between 
 Europe and the Levant has been almost ruined,) the exports from 
 Tripoli consisted in raw silk, silk handkerchiefs for turbans, soap, 
 which is manufactured in the town, and a few sponges, found along 
 the shore between this place and Beirout. 
 
 Beyond, to the east of the base of the triangular plain of Tripoli, is 
 a valley about three leagues wide, situated at the foot of Libanus, 
 whose tops sometimes emerging from the clouds beneath them ; in
 
 ROUTE TO BALBEC. 297 
 
 other places, boldly prominent to the view, display the snowy dreari- 
 ness of winter ; while the forwardness of the corn, and the agreeable 
 warmth of the valleys, indicate the far advancement of spring. 
 
 With the Turks, the burying places are always without the walls of 
 the city. The Mahometans pay peculiar attention to the tombs of 
 their departed friends. At stated times of the year they make fre- 
 quent visits to their sepulchres, ornament them with myrtle sprigs, 
 and say prayers for the happiness of the deceased. At Tripoli we 
 observed several, tents placed over the tombs in the burial places. 
 
 We saw two arched caves near the Kadisha, about a quarter of a 
 mile from its mouth, where the heads of the culprits are thrown, after 
 they have been decapitated by orders of the Pasha. 
 
 This afternoon we walked towards the north end of the town, and 
 visited the mouth of the Kadisha ; we ascended one of the ruined 
 towers in this part, and took the following bearings : 
 
 Convent of Dervises - - N. E. by E. distant 1 mile. 
 Island of Aradus - - - N. N. E. - - 14 
 Point of ^Marina - - - N. N. W. 
 
 April 21. — After having completed the preparations for our pro- 
 jected tour into the interior, we took leave of our hospitable enter- 
 tainer, at Tripoli ; and commenced our journey to Balbec. Thence we 
 proposed to cross Anti-Libanus ; visit Damascus ; and returning by 
 Aleppo and Antioch, to rejoin the Mentor, which was dispatched from 
 Tripoli to the Bay of Scanderoon. 
 
 From Tripoli to Balbec, there are three routes ; one passes to the 
 north of Libanus, the other two traverse it ; the shortest, and im- 
 mediately east of Tripoli, is by the way of Cannobine, and the Cedars 
 over the summits of the mountain. The snows, however, were not 
 thoroughly melted, and on this account the route of the Cedars, at 
 this season, was impassable. The road along the sea-shore to Beirout, 
 and then the passage of Libanus, was represented as extremely rug- 
 ged and difficult ; and we were recommended to take the northern, 
 over a plain and easy road, which turns the north extremity of Li- 
 
 VOL. II. Q Q
 
 298 SYRIA. 
 
 banus. At ten A.M. we left Tripoli ; our general rate of travelling 
 (the ordinary pace of the camel caravans) was 2| miles in an hour ; 
 and a day's journey is in general seven hours, though this depends on 
 the distance of villages, or caravanserais from one station to another. 
 The road was along the sea-side, over a flat country ; and about two 
 leagues from Tripoli we passed the Nahr-el-Bered, or the Cold river. 
 On our riirht the mountains were hare, and without cultivation. As 
 the country appeared so extremely dull and uninteresting, and we 
 heard much of the hospitality of the INIaronites, who live in the 
 southern parts of Libanus, and the beauty and fertility of their moun- 
 tains, we decided to return to Tripoli this evening, and to set out on 
 the following day for Beirout, to the southward : half-past one P. M. 
 we returned, and encamped near the river Kadisha, close to the town. 
 April 22. — At nine A.M. commenced our route for Baitroun, situ- 
 ated on the coast. The road was along the roots of Libanus, which 
 meet the sea in a gentle declivity, though their surface is rocky and 
 uneven. We passed through a beautiful and romantic country, in- 
 habited by the Maronites. The sides of the mountains are inter- 
 spersed with numerous little villages, around which the ground is 
 highly cultivated, either with corn, vines, olive or mulberry- 
 trees ; the earth being supported by terraces, formed of dry 
 masonry, having the appearance of the seats of an amphitheatre. 
 The people are seen without arms, an unusual thing in any part of 
 the Turkish dominions ; and an air of liberty and independence * is 
 conspicuous in the inhabitants of these mountains, which we vainly 
 looked for in any other part of the country. We passed through the 
 
 * Bruce gives a similar account of the state of the country in some parts of Libanus, 
 which he crossed in his journey to Balbec. " Tlie mountains of Libanus, at Zakala, 
 begin to be of rich mould, and are all cultivated. Every valley has a stream running 
 through it into the plain, and every stream on its side a village, where the people live in a 
 sort of independence, under the protection of the Druses, in free exercise of their religion, 
 whatever it is, and out of the reach of the oppressions of the neighbouring Pashas of Tri- 
 poli, Seide, and Damascus." P. 191. — Murray's Life of Bruce.
 
 BAITROUN. 
 
 299 
 
 valley of Hora, near the extremity of Cape Capougee, which forms a 
 promontory in the sea ; and close to its summit we observed a Greek 
 convent in the midst of wood, and in a very romantic situation. 
 After having crossed the mountain, which is connected with Cape 
 Capougee, a rugged and difficult road, we arrived at the head of a 
 beautiful valley, watered by a pleasant shallow sti-eam, well wooded, 
 and chiefly cultivated with the mulberry tree. Towards the south 
 extremity of the valley is an old ruined castle, singularly placed on an 
 isolated rock, rising in the midst of the vale, with perpendicular sides. 
 We next passed well-cultivated grounds ; and about half-past four 
 arrived at Baitroun, a small village on the sea. Here there is no port ; 
 the rock is cut, as if stone had been once shipped from this place for 
 the purposes of building. The village belongs to the JNIaronites, who 
 are under the government of the Druses. The Emirs, or Princes pay a 
 small tribute to the Porte. From their mountainous situation they 
 assert their independence, and most parts of their country have never 
 been visited by the Turks. The Druses and the JNIaronites live on terms 
 of union and intimacy ; the latter have a large church at Baitroun ; 
 their religion is similar to that of the members of the Latin com- 
 munion*; their feasts and fasts are different, and more numerous. 
 ThjB Maronite religious books are Arabic, written in the Syriac cha- 
 racter, t The Christians, in Turkey, are much pleased to have the 
 use of bells for their churches, and in many places they pay a con- 
 siderable sum for that privilege. At Livadia, in Greece, there is a 
 church bell, which was not obtained without a high contribution from 
 the Greeks. At Baitroun, instead of a bell, the JNIaronites, as in 
 
 * Le pere Michel y celebra la messe en Syriaque, selon leur coutunie, laquelle excepte 
 r idiome ne differe presque point de la notre. Pietrode la Valle. Tra. Fr. 325. I, — E. 
 
 f This language is still in use in parts of the East. On ne peut compter la langue 
 Syriaque parmi les langues mortes ; car suivant ce que j'ai appris a Damask, il y' a en- 
 core dans la province du Pasha de ce gouvernement quelques villages ou les paysans ne 
 parlent pas que Syriaque. Dans plusieur hameaux aux environs de Merdin et de Mosul, 
 les Chretiens parlent encore Chaldaique, d' autres disent Syriaque. Niebuhr. i. 81. — E. 
 
 QQ 2
 
 300 BAITROUN. 
 
 many other parts of the Turkish dominions, make use of a flat piece 
 of board, held in one hand, which is beaten with a wooden * mallet 
 by the othei*. We sleep in a sort of public coffee-room, near the sea. 
 April 23. — A quarter before nine, A. M., we left Baitroun ; the 
 road rocky and gravelly ; the soil, though poor, much cultivated in 
 mulberry trees and corn land. The mountains, on the left, whose 
 sides are constantly divided in terraces, present a most beautiful 
 aspect. Our route was along the sea side, and at half-past twelve we 
 arrived at Dgebail, supposed to be the antient Byblus. This place is 
 now a small village on the sea ; here is no harbour, even for the small 
 boats of the country. Dgebail is surrounded by a stone wall towards 
 the land, and in one part is a large square tower of masonry, of Sara- 
 cen construction. At Dgebail we found a young prince of the Druses, 
 son of the Emir Yousuf, who welcomed us with the greatest hospi- 
 tality. He appeared of about twenty or twenty-one years of age. 
 He received us in a miserable apartment, in the tower, where he was 
 accompanied by Georgius Bess, his minister, and a large party of 
 attendants. It was our intention merely to halt at Dgebail, but Saad- 
 el-din, our youthful entertainer, and his minister, pi*evailed upon us 
 to remain at Dgebail that day, and proceed by a shorter route im- 
 mediately across Libanus to Balbec. We accepted the invitation, and 
 were provided with an apartment in the castle. We had a long inter- 
 view with Saad-el-din, who was extremely affable. The whole of the 
 company were unarmed. Georgius Bess gave us an account of the 
 stones which contain the exuviae of small fishes, and are found in the 
 neighbourhood of Dgebail ; he promised to procure some for f us, 
 
 * Called, by the Greeks, a-tjjixavTpov, and (rrjf/iavTfipiov; the use of it is very antient. 
 Mention of this instrument, as well as of bells, is found in George Pachymer, 1. 7. w; /x>)8e 
 (Diftavrpois xai Kwdaxriv ^Spois-ftsvoi. Leo Allatius, de teniplis GrEecorum recentioribus. — E. 
 
 f Above Bairout there is a bed of whitish stone, but of the slate kind, which unfolds in 
 every flake of it a great number and variety of fishes. They are so well preserved, that 
 the smallest strokes and lineaments of their fius, scales, and other spccifical distinctions are 
 easily observed. Shaw, 344. — E.
 
 WAADI-EL-AMID. 
 
 301 
 
 and immediately dispatched a messenger into the mountains for an 
 ass load, which was afterwards forwarded to us at Scanderoon. 
 
 At Dgebail there is a spacious Maronite church ; and we observed 
 a curious cornice in front of the entrance, having Greek ornaments. 
 On the sea-side are several fragments of grey granite columns, and 
 foundations of building. We visit an exiled Mousellim, or governor, 
 from Tripoli. 
 
 From Tripoli to Dgebail the coast is extremely rocky ; and, except 
 in the bay of Hora, absolutely inaccessible. 
 
 . April 24. — At half past seven A. M., after having taken leave of 
 the minister, who ordered an escort to accompany us, consisting of 
 two horsemen, and two men on foot, we ascended the mountains 
 immediately east of the town, which were exceedingly well wooded ; 
 and, wherever cultivation was practicable, cultivated ; the ground 
 being disposed in terraces, and producing mulberry-trees and corn. 
 After a rugged, narrow, stony road, of three hours' continual ascent, 
 we arrived at Kafr-Baal, a village consisting of four or five houses ; 
 half an hour beyond, the scenery becomes rich and magnificent in the 
 extreme : Waadi-el-amid, the rich valley, watered by the river Vidar, 
 is on our right, a large and deep stream, and its banks exceedingly 
 fertile ; on the other side of the valley are most lofty mountains 
 covered with snow, the clouds passing beneath their summits. Shortly 
 afterwards, we passed the villages Duziyere and Hameige, on heights 
 below us, but considerably above the bottom of the valley. At 
 two P. M. we arrived at Dgibel-Dgudge, or the JMountain of Fowls, 
 very steep, and covered with holm oaks : the descent was as a sliarp- 
 pointed staircase of rock ; and most of us were obliged to dismount. 
 In this part we were embosomed in the depths of snow-topped 
 mountains, wild and horrid in the extreme: Solinghi e taciturni 
 orrori. 
 
 At the foot of Dgibel-Dgudge is a rushing stream, the ground on 
 either side being cultivated ; this river is called Nahr-INIehaal, and 
 seems to form part of the Vidar, which flows through the " rich 
 valley," the Mehaal being perpendicular to the Vidar. At the head
 
 302 SYRIA. 
 
 of the former is a fine waterfall, about 100 feet high, composed of 
 five cascades, the first of which has a descent of 30 feet. Aft;er 
 passing a short distance to the eastward, along the bank of the river, 
 we forded it, and ascended the snowy mountains to the southward. 
 Here the snow was very deep, the road difficult, and our horses fre- 
 quently fell in the hollows. Throughout the winter this route is 
 absolutely impracticable. In about an hour we turned to our left, 
 and after passing a rugged uneven ground, we arrived at the vale, and 
 then at the village of Alcoura, at the head of the valley. Alcoura is 
 a Maronite village, situated at the foot of a very lofty precipice ; it 
 consists of about 100 houses, and is tributary to the minister at 
 Dgebail. The houses are merely square stone buildings covered 
 with beams of rough hewn trees and branches, instead of plank ; 
 this again is overlaid with a composition of mud, and forms a terrace : 
 the only openings are a door, and two or three square holes to admit 
 the light. Here the silk-worms were still in the egg, while at Tripoli 
 they were already brought into the garden. At Alcoura, indeed, 
 every thing had the appearance of winter ; there were no leaves on 
 the mulberry-trees, nor any other marks of spring vegetation. 
 
 April 25. — This morning we attended mass at the village church, 
 which seemed to be officiated precisely in the same manner as the 
 Latin. It appears that the only difference between the Maronites 
 and Roman Catholics consists in the former following the Greek 
 calendar, and observing some festivals and fasts, which were omitted 
 by the latter. 
 
 At twenty minutes past eight A. M. we took leave of Alcoura : our 
 chief horseman was our host at this village. In the valley of Alcoura 
 is the village Mogeiree : shortly after passing this, we had a view of 
 the sea. The mountains which form the valley of Alcoura are lofty, 
 and covered with snow. In an hour and a half we arrived opposite 
 to Dgibel Mitree. Between us and this mountain is the valley of the 
 same name, with a small stream, and village called Mitree, belonging 
 to the Motoualis ; and another called Kafr-Uftar : both these villages 
 are on the opposite side of the stream. At the head of the valley
 
 BALBEC. 3Q3 
 
 Mitree, we halt at the Ain-el-Bukhara, « the fountain of the cow :" 
 here the mountains were lofty, wild, and uncultivated ; rarely inter- 
 spersed with large juniper-trees. The road led us sometimes over 
 hardened snow : at others, over travel. 
 
 At half-past noon we saw the highest summit of Libanus * ; Anti- 
 Libanus running in a direction north and south ; between them ex- 
 tends the plain of Balbec, about two leagues and a half in breadth. 
 From this point we took the following bearings : — 
 
 Summit of Libanus - - N. E. by E. 
 
 Point of ditto in valley - - E. N. E. 
 
 Balbec - - - - E. S. E. 
 
 Direction of the valley of Balbec N. N. E. and S. S. W. 
 
 Hence we soon began to descend the mountain ; and, after traversing 
 a steep road for m.ore than two hours, we arrived at the ruined village 
 Sardac, at the commencement of the plain. Here we crossed the valley, 
 badly cultivated, and with scarcely any trees ; the soil of a reddish 
 colour. We soon distinctly perceived the towering ruins of the temple 
 of the Sun. At half-past six P. M. we arrived at Balbec, and pitched 
 our tent south of the temple. 
 
 April 26. — After breakfast this morning, we visited the Emir Djugar, 
 of the family of Harfouche, of the race of the Motoualis, the present 
 Governor of Balbec j who was then tributary to JNIahomet, the Pasha 
 of Gaza. As we gave him to understand that we had brought him 
 a small present, (a piece of Lyons stuff,) which is extremely necessary 
 to gain the good will of these ignorant plunderers, he received us in 
 a very civil manner ; told us we might go where we pleased, and re- 
 main at Balbec as long as we wished. After pipes and coffee, we 
 proceeded to visit the temple, accompanied by a minister of the 
 Prince, and a large troublesome suite of inhabitants. 
 
 * According to Abulfeda, Libanus should receive the name of Shenir only where it 
 begins to run more to the north than Damascus : while it is more south than that city it 
 should be called Gahel Eltalg, or the Snowy Mount, which also is its common name in 
 Chaldee. — Michaelis on the Laws of Moses, i. 92.
 
 304 SYRIA. 
 
 The first building that attracted our notice was a beautiful small 
 temple of an hexagonal figure : on the outside four columns of the 
 Corinthian order are still standirg, with niches between them for 
 statues, which no doubt were formerly placed there : the cornice was 
 very beautifully executed. Since the introduction of Christianity, 
 this elegant building had been used as a Greek church ; but about 
 40 years ago, having been very much shook and injured by an earth- 
 quake, it is entirely ruined. This little chapel is about 60 yards S. E. 
 of the grand temple. The latter seems to be composed of four prin- 
 cipal parts — the entrance ; an hexagonal court ; a large square area, 
 enclosed with walls, and the temple itself. The entrance appears to 
 have been a raised colonnade with, perhaps, a large flight of steps. 
 The hexagonal court is ornamented with niches and beautiful pedi- 
 ments and cornices. The north and south sides of the square court 
 are composed of recesses, two of which are semicircular : in these 
 are niches for statues, pediments, pilasters ; and all the riches of the 
 Corinthian order are displayed in the greatest profusion. Of the 
 grand temple, only six columns remain on their basements, with the 
 architrave above them. The whole place is covered with fragments 
 of columns, friezes, pediments, and of various other ornaments, 
 which once composed this superb edifice. South of the grand temple, 
 and without the line of its terrace, is a smaller temple, whose sides are 
 tolerably perfect ; presenting a striking specimen of the Corinthian 
 order of architecture. The long sides of the temple north and south are 
 about 120 feet in length; the short sides 70. It is surrounded by a 
 corridor, composed of fluted pillars, supporting a roof 14 feet wide, 
 carved and executed in a most elaborate manner. It is divided into 
 compartments, and ornamented with the sculptured portraits of 
 Princes or of Queens. One of these latter, which has fallen, we 
 observed to be of a colossal size, and nourishing an infant at the 
 breast. The roof on the north side is composed of eight large stones, 
 each 16 feet long, and of the breadth of the corridor: they are cut in 
 a small degree in the form of an arch : the pillars are about 30 feet 
 high, and composed of three stones. On the east side, after creeping
 
 BALBEC. 305 
 
 through an opening In a wall apparently built by the Saracens, we 
 arrived at the portal of the temple, of magnificent workmanship. 
 This entrance is about 25 feet high, and 20 feet in width : on each 
 side are lines of sculpture, representing small figures intertwined with 
 garlands of flowers and fruits : parallel to these again is a variety of 
 ornaments. On the under part of the architrave of this entrance is 
 the representation, in bas-relief, of an eagle with expanded win^s, 
 grasping a sort of caduceus, the emblem of majesty ; and holding in 
 its mouth the joined ends of two festoons, each of which at the other 
 end is held by a figure representing a youth with wings : the festoons 
 are enriched with different sorts of fruits and flowers ; and the north 
 side is in the most perfect preservation. This architrave is composed 
 of three stones, the center one of which has fallen at least four feet 
 below the others, in consequence of an earthquake. The roof of this 
 temple is entirely destroyed ; the interior, however, surrounded by 
 niches richly ornamented with handsome pediments, sufficiently 
 indicates its former magnificence. From the remains of plaster on 
 the walls, it appears that this building was once used as a church. 
 The columns within, with a rich entablature, produce a fine effect : 
 and they are tinged with a reddish yellow. 
 
 Both temples are built on artificial terraces ; and in the wall, to retain 
 the grand terrace at the N. W. angle, are three stones *, occupying a 
 length of 150 feet, and 10 feet in height. The whole of this magni- 
 ficent ruin is so much intermixed with Saracen building, extremely 
 good and solid, that in many places it is difficult to distinguish the 
 modern walls from the originals. Near the entrance of the small 
 temple on the south side, is a complete square tower, built of the 
 materials of the temple, and of excellent workmanship ; indeed the 
 whole building has been converted into a place of defence, and 
 surrounded by high walls pierced with loop-holes ; and in many 
 places are machicoulis. Under the grand temple are two vaulted 
 
 • Au nombre des merveilles du monde sont, dit Kodhai, les trois pierres de Balbec. 
 Extract from Makrizi. See Abdallatif, S. de Sacy. 508. — E. 
 
 VOL. II. R R
 
 306 SYRIA. 
 
 subterraneous passages on each side, running E. and W., and con- 
 nected, about 20 yards from the east entrance, by a similar passage run- 
 ning the breadth of the building : the first are about 370 feet in length ; 
 the connecting passage 200 feet ; the arch is part of a circle, and 
 20 feet wide. On the soffit, or under part of these vaulted passages, 
 are a few heads sculptured in bas-relief : near one of which are these 
 
 letters, 
 
 DIVISIO 
 
 MOSCH 
 
 The workmanship of the buildings at Balbec is excellent: the 
 stones are large, and so closely joined together without cement, 
 that the blade of a knife could not be inserted between them : the 
 stone itself, taken from the quarries, S. W. of the town, is a very hard 
 limestone, approaching the nature of marble. Many of the standing 
 columns have been cut by the barbarous inhabitants to their very 
 center, towards the bottom, for the sake of the iron, which unites the 
 pieces, of which each column is composed. 
 
 Balbec is situated at the foot of Anti-Libanus ; on the east side of a 
 very extensive, uniform, plain, in general about eight miles in width. 
 In the plain scarcely any trees are visible ; but around Balbec there is a 
 variety : — the walnut, the willow, the poplar, and the ash ; render- 
 ing the situation pleasant in the extreme : it is watered by two 
 small brooks, which have their sources adjoining each other, about a 
 quarter of a mile S. E. of the town. Balbec was originally contained 
 in an enclosure of the extent of nearly four miles ; the Saracen wall, 
 which still remains, though in a ruinous state, is built in a most solid 
 manner: perhaps it may have been about 16 feet high, with small 
 square towers at intervals, of the same height as the wall. Several of the 
 stones, which compose it, are remnants of inscriptions, friezes, enta- 
 blatures, and other ornaments in architecture. On the S. W. side 
 of the town is a high hill, the lower part of which is enclosed within 
 the walls of the place. Immediately near this angle are the different 
 parts of the column of 18 stones described by Pococke, which is now 
 thrown down, and destroyed : the capital, the base, the channel for
 
 BALBEC. 
 
 307 
 
 the water, remain exactly according to his relation. Near this spot 
 is a stone, eight feet long, six wide, and fourteen inches in 
 thickness : it may have served as a canopy to a throne ; for at the 
 four angles are evident marks that there were four small columns 
 for its support : it is now standing on one of its edges : the 
 interior is elegantly sculptured with roses and serpents, and divided 
 into four compartments. On this height is a Saracen tomb of very 
 good execution, in a S. W. direction : about one mile from the town 
 is another ]\Iahometan sepulchre, composed of a dome and five low 
 granite columns ; this we had no opportunity of visiting. On the north 
 side of the height, commanding the town, are several catacombs. 
 Only one-fifth part of the original enclosure of Balbec appears to be 
 inhabited, and that part is towards the S. E. : the whole town presents 
 a most wretched appearance, as the principal part of the hovels have 
 been destroyed by earthquakes, which it appears very frequently 
 occur. The inhabitants are partly Moutoualis, and partly jNIaronite 
 Christians : here is a church and a mosque. The place seems to be 
 very unproductive, and to have no trade whatever. 
 
 In the afternoon of this day we visited Emir Suldan, the brother of 
 the governor, who is a great sportsman : there was a fine falcon in his 
 apartment ; and he told us he was very fond of hawking. He had just 
 built a small hut entirely of plank, as a place of retirement in the 
 event of an earthquake. 
 
 April 27. — The Emir informed our companion, JMonsieur Laurella, 
 that we had met with more indulgence than any Franks who ever 
 visited Balbec ; he had heard, he said, that we had in our possession 
 eight watches, and desired a handsome one for himself. After some con- 
 sultation, offered his own as the most valuable ; but the Emir, not 
 
 sufficiently esteeming it, declined the acceptance; so that we thought, 
 from several hints which had passed, it would be most prudent to depart; 
 we therefore immediately ordered our tent to be struck, and prepared 
 to leave the place. The Emir sent to invite us to remain this evening, 
 and to quit Balbec to-morrow : he sent a second message ; and when we 
 were mounted, he sohcited, and even pressed, us to stay ; this, however, 
 
 RR 2
 
 308 
 
 6YK1A. 
 
 we absolutely refused. The Emir wished to gain as much from us as 
 he could : he repented of having refused the watch. He had asked 
 Laurella for my spying glass ; and perhaps if we had remained much 
 longer at Balbec, we might have been completely plundered. At 
 half-past one P. M., we commenced our journey, and about a quarter 
 of a mile south-west of the town, we observed a range of quarries, 
 from which, no doubt, materials were extracted for the temple. 
 There is now lying, in an horizontal position, an immense stone, 
 completely separated and quarried from the rock : it is about fifty feet 
 long, fourteen feet wide, and eight feet in height : here is also another 
 detached from the rock, about twenty feet high, and standing on one 
 of its ends in a perpendicular manner. We observed also in this 
 part several arched excavations, probably catacombs. After passing 
 in a south direction for two hours over the slopes of the mountain, 
 which extends into the plain, we saw on our right the village Betrane ; 
 and half an hour afterwards arrived at a torrent between two heights, 
 called Sarle. The view in this part is extremely singular : not a tree 
 or a house in the plain, which is here bounded by the highest points 
 of Libanus, running in a north and south direction. At the end of 
 four hours we arrived at a wretched Moutoualis village, called Kribe: 
 we stop to rest on the north side near a well. The soil of these 
 mountains appears of a reddish coloured clay, intermixed with rock : 
 near our halting place we observed several vineyards. 
 
 April 28. — At six A. M. we commenced our journey, the weather 
 being extremely fine. After one hour's riding across a high mountain, 
 we arrived at a small bridge, over a stream, which waters the valley of 
 Maraboun : a little to the north is a village of the same name. Here 
 we took a south direction, and an hour beyond passed the village 
 Serghey. In this valley are several mulberry grounds, and vineyards, 
 the vines being carefully cultivated en espalier, and propped up with 
 small sticks about two feet in height. In three quarters of an hour 
 we passed Din-Hour, on the east of the road, which is watered by a 
 small brook taking its course to the southward. An hour beyond this 
 place, we arrived at Zebdany, in the north-west corner of a beautiful,
 
 SUKE. 3Qg 
 
 well cultivated plain, about nine miles in circumference : the around 
 is very neatly disposed, and the enclosures in excellent order. Here 
 are many vineyards, mulberry grounds, and a variety of fruit trees in 
 blossom. On entering the plain, Blazel, a village, is to the east. Half 
 an hour beyond Zebdany we halted at a spring on the road side, with a 
 weeping willow at its head. On the heights to our left were the two 
 villages, Buchai and Mozaia. After passing an hour and an half from 
 the fountain along the slopes of the hills, bounding the east side of the 
 valley of Zebdany, we directed our course to the eastward : through 
 this valley flows the river Barrady, the antient Chrysorrhoas. On turn- 
 ing to the eastward we followed the course of this stream, nearly east 
 and west, as far as the bridge of Suke, which we crossed. Where the 
 turn of the river makes an angle with its direction throuo;h the vale of 
 Zebdany, there is a very fine cascade, about sixty feet high, composed 
 of three waterfalls : this being surrounded by lofty poplar trees and 
 different kinds of shrubs, renders the scenery very pii-tnresque. The 
 river flows in a narrow rocky vale, and part of the road is through an 
 artificial excavation in the rock. A short distance before we arrived 
 at the bridge, we observe on our left the remains of an aqueduct, 
 communicating with an almost perpendicular mountain, north of the 
 bridge. There were many excavations in it, forming probably the 
 catacombs of a large city : in one part we could distinguish with a 
 glass the remains of sculpture in a square compartment of the rock, 
 which represented a figure sitting in a chair, with another beside it 
 After passing the bridge, we entered the vale of Suke, about three miles 
 in length : the river is almost concealed by a variety of trees, but 
 chiefly the Lombardy poplar : these, intermixed with corn fields, and 
 the brown lofty mountains above, afford some of the most beautiful 
 views that can be imagined. We passed the village Suke, at two 
 P. M. to the north of the river, and shortly afterwards Kafr-Senaiah 
 to the south ; we then crossed some low mountains in a N, E. 
 direction, leaving the village Tsdaidy on a hill, near the Barrady, and 
 at half-past five, after traversing Hame, we halted on the Damascus 
 side of a bridge across the Barrady : this river, flowing through the
 
 310 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 vale of Sake, takes a direction to the north, then to the east, and 
 afterwards to the south, close to the village Hame : the banks of it 
 are well wooded, and afford much pleasing scenery. 
 ip ,')!^ April 29. — At half-past seven A. M. we struck our tent, and pro- 
 
 ceeded on our route to Damascus. We soon passed Tseieh on the 
 right, and in three quarters of an hour we left, in the same direction, 
 the village Dommer, situated in the pleasant valley through which 
 flows the Barrady. West of Dommer is a neat, well-built stone- 
 bridge, of four arches. After passing Dommer, we began to ascend 
 the heio'lits bounding; Damascus to the west : in half an hour we 
 perceived the south part of the plain of Damascus, and, shortly after- 
 wards, when we descended the hill, the city itself burst upon our 
 view, presenting the most striking scene that can be conceived : an 
 extensive plain, for the most part well covered with trees, and inter- 
 spersed with numerous villages, and, immediately before us, the large 
 city of Damascus, whose minarets, intermixed with the trees, and 
 contrasted with the terraced roofs of the houses, extending nearly 
 three miles in length, produce an effect at once singular and pic- 
 turesque. On our right, at the foot of the mountain, was the village 
 Mizzee ; to the southward, Deriah ; on our left, under the hill, was 
 Saheiah. We passed near this place : afterwards, through a number 
 of gardens ; and, at the end of two hours and a half, we halted near 
 the gate of the seraglio. The Pasha being absent with the grand 
 caravan of Mecca, (for the office of conductor of the pilgrims is always 
 attached to the Pashalic of Damascus,) we were introduced into the 
 seraglio, with the intention of paying our compliments to the 
 Mousselim, or deputed governor of the city. We were ushered into a 
 large apartment, with a fountain before the Divan. Here we took 
 coffee ; and, as the governor was engaged in affairs of importance, we 
 agreed to pay our visit at another opportunity. At the seraglio, we 
 were furnished with two attendants by the jNIousselim ; and, after 
 passing through a great part of the town, we arrived at a Spanish 
 Catholic convent, where there were six Fathers, who received us with 
 the utmost civility. This convent is well built, large, and the most
 
 DAMASCUS. oil 
 
 respectable at Damascus. Here we took up our quarters, in pre- 
 ference to a house which was offered us by the ]\Iousselim. In the 
 afternoon, we visited him : he was seated, with the Alufti, in a kiosk, 
 adjoining the seragho, and immediately on the rapid current of the 
 Barrady, in this part surrounded by a little forest of fruit-trees. 
 The governor was extremely polite, and said, that whatever we 
 wished should be immediately attended to ; for the Porte had received 
 great obligations from the English. During our conference, the 
 Mufti retired into the anti-chamber, and prayed to JNlahomet with 
 the usual prostrations, although the place was crowded with attend- 
 ants. In the afternoon, we passed through the gate of St. Paul, or, 
 as the Arabs call it, Bab Shirke *, " The Gate of the East ;" and, 
 after walking about half an hour, we were shown the spot where Saul 
 fell, and became blind : it is a small elevation, formed of a mass of 
 stones. Near this place are the tombs of the Christians. 
 
 April 30. — This morning, we walked over the greater part of the 
 town, and passed through the various bazars, in which, as at Cairo, 
 the different trades are each in a particular quarter. We entered a 
 sort of public garden, where there were fountains, and an abundance 
 of fruit-trees. We paid our respects to the Aga of the castle, with 
 the hopes of seeing the interior of it, and the antient arms and 
 armour it contains. This, however, was impracticable : we were 
 told that, without an order, there could be no admission ; and, as for 
 the arms, they were locked up, and sealed with the seal of the Vizier. 
 We visited several silk-manufactories ; and, after passing through a con- 
 siderable part of the quarter of the Jews, we arrived at the house of So- 
 lomon, of the family of Haime, which has been established more than 
 a century at Damascus. This man is a banker, and manages the pecu- 
 niary affairs of the Pashalic : he is extremely rich, as, indeed, one 
 
 * The seven ancient gates of Damascus, according to Aboulbal<a, are Bab-alsaghir ; 
 Bab-kisan ; Bab-scharki; Bab-touma; Bab-aldjanik ; Bab-allaradis ; Bab-aldjabiyeh. 
 The five modern are, Bab-alsalameh ; Bab-aifaradj ; Bab-elhadid ; Bab-alserr; Bab- 
 alnasr. — Abdallatif, S. de Sacy. 580. — E.
 
 312 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 mio-lit conclude from the splendour of his mansion. Of these great 
 houses, from without, one sees nothing but walls, badly built, with no 
 windows : all the ornaments and beauty are within. We entered 
 into a spacious square court, paved with marble : a large fountain 
 occupies the middle, surrounded with orange and lemon-trees. On 
 two sides of the court were open lofty apartments, with a superb 
 Divan, and the walls and ceiling painted after the oriental style, in a 
 very rich and gaudy manner. The chambers, with doors forming the 
 other sides of the square, were fitted up expensively, each having its 
 fountain of water, in a basin of different-coloured marbles. As the 
 proprietor of the house was then at the seraglio, we took leave, after 
 having been regaled with sherbets, sweetmeats, pipes, and coffee, 
 which were served to us by the nephew of Solomon. Towards the 
 close of the evening, we visited the distribution of the waters at the 
 gorge of a valley, immediately westward of the town. This spot is a 
 place of very great resort with the inhabitants of Damascus ; the 
 valley is narrow, well wooded, running east and west, and the rapid 
 stream of the Barrady flows over its bottom. On the south side are 
 two canals, one above the other ; and both considerably higher than 
 the river. On the north side are also two artificial channels, running 
 along the side of the mountain ; the highest, after following the 
 direction of the valley, turns off to the northward, and waters the 
 village of Selheiah. The stream of the other, in this part, passes un- 
 der a rock, and continues in the same direction as the valley. This 
 canal is twenty feet above the level of the river ; the former is, at 
 least, sixty feet higher than the Barrady. The division of the waters 
 is one of the most beautiful spots in the neighbourhood of Damascus. 
 We returned to the town through a small part of the village 
 Selheiah, which is at the foot of the high mountains westward of 
 Damascus. Here we observed several Saracen buildings, in a most 
 ruinous state. Between the city and Selheiah there is a paved road 
 of stone, to the extent of half a mile, after passing over a bridge 
 across the Barrady, near Bab-Salam. On this is a large coffee-house. 
 We entered Bab-Touman, and arrived at the convent.
 
 DAMASCUS. 313 
 
 May 1. — This morning we visited an artificial, arched grotto, 
 which is said to have been the residence of Ananias : it is near Bab- 
 shirke ; the descent is by means of steps. The grotto consists of 
 three small apartments, open to each other. In the afternoon, we 
 passed through Bab-shirke : following the walls to the southward, we 
 made a complete tour of the town of Damascus. Having walked 
 through several gardens, near which flowed two streams of the Bar- 
 rady, on different levels, we entered Bab Touman. 
 
 Alay2. — This morning we visited the castle, having obtained a 
 particular order for that purpose from the Mousselim ; and then, after 
 passing through a considerable part of the town, we arrived at our 
 convent. 
 
 Damascus is situated on the west side of an extensive plain, 
 bounded, for the most part, by distant mountains ; and, towards the 
 eastern side, by part of the Desert. The direction of the town and 
 suburbs, in their length, is nearly north and south, about two miles 
 and a half, and the greatest breadth, three quarters of a mile. The 
 town, properly so called, which is to the north, is not above three 
 miles in circuit. This is surrounded by a double wall, with round 
 towers at intervals, in a very decayed state, apparently built on the 
 foundation of the ancient Saracen fortification. Formerly there was 
 a ditch, but at present it is almost entirely filled up with rubbish ; 
 and the mean, ill-built walls afford little defence to the city. The 
 castle is in the south-west angle of the town ; it is a good building, of 
 a square figure, each side about two hundred yards long, and flanked 
 by twelve square towers, placed at the angles, and at intervals in the 
 sides. Under the entrance of this castle, are the remains of some 
 ancient armour, a part of a balista, and an instrument, which may 
 have been made use of to discharge stones or darts. We did not see 
 more than five guns in the fortress, and these of a very small calibre, 
 badly mounted on the ramparts ; within, is a small manufactory for 
 powder. The height of the walls of the castle exceeds eighty feet ; 
 they are extremely well built, most probably by the Saracen Caliphs j 
 and are in very good preservation. The town is watered by the 
 
 VOL. u. s s
 
 314 SYRIA. 
 
 Barrady, (the Abana of the Scriptures, the Chrysorrhoas of the Greeks,) 
 which, branching out into several small streams, passes through the 
 gardens in different parts of the city : every house has its fountain. The 
 largest, and most frequented of these coffee-houses in Damascus, is 
 near Bab Salam, (the Gate of Peace,) on the north side of the city ; it 
 is situated on a bridge, through which flows the principal stream of the 
 Barrady. Before it passes this bridge, there is a small waterfall, and 
 its banks are crowded with a variety of fruit trees. These objects, 
 with the murmuring of the river flowing rapidly over its bed, and the 
 rich and varied dress of the Turks, who appear the most respectable 
 merchants of the town, compose a scene extremely gay and enliven- 
 ing. Indeed, Damascus is placed amidst gardens and swift streams, 
 and is of itself, without the assistance of art, a sort of terrestrial para- 
 dise. What a delightful spot it might be rendered in the hands of an 
 enlightened people, who understood the real value of its situation ! — 
 what a city might be erected ! — what elegant retirements, amidst 
 water and verdure, — the principal objects to be desired in these 
 warm climates ! 
 
 The houses of Damascus are built principally of mud and wooden 
 rafters, and sometimes of small bricks hardened in the sun ; and very 
 rarely, the lower parts are of stone : without, their appearance is poor 
 and wretched in the extreme ; within, as we saw in the house of the 
 Jew, Solomon, there is, amongst the higher class, a great display of 
 riches and magnificence. The principal mosque was formerly a 
 large Christian church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and built 
 in the early ages of Christianity ; we were not even permitted 
 to enter the outer court, although it is a thoroughfare for the in- 
 habitants ; they, however, from motives of respect, when passing 
 from one end to the other, always carry their slippers * in their 
 
 • Among tlie Jews and other nations of the Orient especially, that rite of discalceation, 
 or putting oft" their shoes, is still used, and continued among them unto this day, when 
 they come into their temples and sacred places. — Mede's Works, 3-47- — E.
 
 DAMASCUS. 315 
 
 hands : we looked at the interior of this court throush one of the 
 entrances ; the gate of which is covered with plates of brass, and the 
 whole court was surrounded by a vaulted colonnade supported by 
 small pillars of different coloured granite, which are surmounted 
 with Corinthian capitals. Within, this mosque appeared extremely 
 spacious *, and paved with various pieces of marble. It appears 
 that most of the mosques in this city were originally churches ; there 
 is one towards the south, different from the rest : the court in front is 
 surrounded by a colonnade, the roof of which consists of several 
 cupolas, covered with sheet lead, as well as the grand dome of the 
 mosque. This building has two Alinarets ; they are built in the style 
 of those at Constantinople ; in the middle of the city is a mosque 
 which has a Minaret covered with green tiles. Near the principal 
 mosque we observed the remains of some Greek architecture, which 
 after great difficulty, because it was in the midst of houses and 
 harams, we succeeded in examining. This remnant appears to be 
 part of a pediment over a gateway formed by a circular arch ; it is 
 supported by four columns, each four feet in diameter : as it was 
 intermixed with the roofs of houses, we did not see above four or 
 five feet from the capital of the columns. Near it are the remains of 
 an architrave almost entirely defaced, supported by pillars of the same 
 diameter as the first ; it is about fifteen feet long : the ornaments are 
 Corinthian ; and probably the ruin formed part of a temple built 
 in the latter ages of the empire. Some of the covered bazars at 
 Damascus are well built ; and the shops well furnished with different 
 commodities for sale. Each art or trade has its particular quarter : 
 the boot and slipper makers, as well as those engaged in sadlery, oc- 
 cupy a large division ; there are, besides, silk bazars, and a large 
 display of rich articles of commerce. In the city are several manu- 
 factories of soap, glass, lamps, sattins, cotton-stuffs, and large round 
 
 * La grande mosquee de Damas est comptee par les ecrivains Arabes au nombre des 
 merveilles du nionde. — Abdallatif. S. de Sacy. 442. 
 
 s s 2
 
 316 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 tents ; a poor manufactory of cutlery ; and on the river are many 
 water-mills and tan-yards. At present the climate is like that of 
 England in June; the trees are in full leaf; the fruit perfectly 
 formed ; and in three weeks, we are told, there will be ripe apricots. 
 In our journey from Tripoli to Damascus we have passed through 
 the three climates of winter, spring, and summer ; and these changes 
 we experienced in little more than a week ; near Tripoli every object 
 was of the spring ; on Libanus we met with the chilly dreariness of 
 winter ; in the plains of Damascus we were gladdened with the joyous 
 appearance of summer. 
 
 tt seems that the Barrady, after passing through Damascus, follows 
 a north-east direction, and discharges its waters into a lake in the 
 Desert. 
 
 Djebail Sheik, part of Anti-Libanus, lies south-west of the town, 
 and is one of the highest mountains in Syria ; the summit and sides 
 are much covered with snow, and with the chain of hills to the west- 
 ward of the city, forms a striking contrast with the verdant plains of 
 Damascus. 
 
 This city is the place of assemblage for pilgrims from the north 
 and east, who undertake the holy journey to Mecca, which is about 
 45 days distant from Damascus. The caravan is conducted by the 
 Pasha in person ; on his return he is joined, near the confines of the 
 desert, by the Pasha of Tripoli, who brings a supply of provisions for 
 the pilgrims. As at present the government of Tripoli is only pro- 
 visional, the Pasha being deposed by the inhabitants, the Seraglio at 
 Damascus is employed in preparing the usual provision for the 
 caravan ; which supply, according to the orders of the Vizier, should 
 have been on its march ten days ago. 
 
 Without almost every gate of Damascus is an extensive burying- 
 ground, and it really is the case, that these habitations of the dead 
 appear much more neat and cleanly than those of the living. The 
 women here are extremely punctual in their visits to the sepulchres 
 of their relations ; in each tomb is a small earthen pot let in at one 
 of the ends ; in this pot there are constantly fresh branches of
 
 DAMASCUS. 317 
 
 myrtle *, or some small shrub, over which they frequently pour 
 water, and preserve with the most respectful care and attention ; 
 most of these tombs are formed of dried mud in the shape of an 
 oblong pyramid, and surrounded by two steps. Some of the se- 
 pulchres are covered with a wooden building ornamented with 
 lattice-work ; in many of the burying-grounds we have seen large 
 green tents placed over the tombs. 
 
 The convents of Damascus are three ; a convent of the Terra Santa, 
 in which are six Spanish fathers, with whom we took up our 
 residence ; one of Capuchins, and one of the Lazarists : neither of the 
 two latter were inhabited. It seems that the sight of a Frank, in the 
 European dress, presented a strange and novel appearance in 
 Damascus. As we walked through the town, every one was struck 
 with amazement at our hats, and close dress, so different from their 
 own ; and we were always accompanied by a numerous suite, gaping 
 widely with astonishment : — the carpenter dropped his hammer, the 
 embroiderer his needle, the coffee cooled in the hands of the idle, the 
 pipe was extinguished ; every one indeed neglected his employment, 
 and gazed on us with wonder. 
 
 ]\Iay 3d. — Having made the necessary arrangements for our 
 journey, we this day took leave of the fathers of the convent, and at 
 three P. M., proceeded on our route for Aleppo. Our direction was 
 north-east ; at half-past four we passed the village Havistar ; then, 
 afterwards having crossed two bridges over the Barrady, we entered 
 the village Dummer ; and a quarter before six we arrived at a large 
 Khan, within the outer court of which we pitched our tent for the 
 evening : this Khan is almost east of Damascus, and situated near 
 three streams of the Barrady, on different levels. 
 
 May 4th. — At seven this morning we continued our route, and 
 after passing one hour and a half over an ill cultivated plain in an 
 
 • They put some green myrtles in little air-holes that are round the tombs, and they 
 are of opinion that their relations are the happier the longer these remain green, and 
 retain their colour. — RauwolfF's Travels, p. 46.
 
 318 SYRIA. 
 
 easterly direction, we arrived at the foot of Dgebail Cteifa, where 
 there is a ruined Khan. From this spot we changed our course to the 
 north-east, and here we met a caravan of sixty camels from Aleppo, 
 laden with merchandise. On entering the passage of the mountains, 
 seven armed men offered themselves as an escort across them, telling 
 us that seventy mounted Arabs had passed yesterday, and that there 
 were many robbers in the neighbourhood. These people would most 
 probably either protect, or plunder caravans, as circumstances might 
 dictate. At half-past ten, A. M., we saw before us a lai-ge plain, 
 bounded by barren mountains, with little cultivation ; in the distant 
 part towards the east we observed a great part of the plain exceedingly 
 white ; this we afterwards learnt was a salt lake : half an hour before 
 noon we arrived at a well-built Khan adjoining the village of Cteifa ; 
 here we pitched our feet for the evening. This Khan was built in 
 the year 1440, by Sinaum Pasha ; it consists of two courts, the inner 
 of which is extremely well-built, and in excellent repair. On enter- 
 ing the south gate of the outer court, the passage is through a vaulted 
 bazar, about sixty feet long, with shops on each side of it : in this 
 court is a mosque with a Minaret. The inner court is surrounded by 
 a raised arched colonnade, adapted for the accommodation of tra- 
 vellers : within this colonnade, and along the sides of the building, 
 are vaulted chambers for the cattle ; in the center of this court is a 
 large square stone reservoir for water, which is constantly supplied 
 from a small brook, that flows between the south side of the building 
 and the village. The outer court, merely a square inclosure, is com- 
 posed of bad masonry, and mud-bricks. The walls of the inner court 
 are sixteen feet high, of very good masonry, with counter-forts at 
 intervals. The village of Cteifa is surrounded with fruit gardens, 
 which, as at Damascus, are laid out without any taste * or arrange- 
 ment, and are sown with barley. 
 
 * A similar observation applies to the gardens in parts of the coast of Barbary. " They 
 are not laid out with method, or design, tlie whole being a medley of fruit trees, with 
 plantations of cabbages, turnips, beans; nay sometimes of wheat and barley, inter- 
 spersed." 1 46. Shaw. — E.
 
 CASTAL. 3jg 
 
 May 5. — At five tliis morning we proceeded in a north direction, 
 to cross the heights which bound the plain of Cteifli to the northward. 
 After riding nearly one hour, we arrived at the foot of these heights, 
 and passing a ruined Khan, followed the road for the most part in a 
 north-easterly direction. About eight o'clock we passed another 
 ruined Khan, near which were some small remains of an antient 
 aqueduct ; at nine, on the left of our road was Ain Tenee, a ruined 
 convent in the mountains, and the village Yebroot ; an hour after- 
 wards we passed the hamlet of Castal on an eminence, the female 
 inhabitants of which brought us a supply of dried grapes, cheese, 
 milk, and other eatables. As far as Castal the road was across the 
 mountains, though very even and regular, without any rapid falls or 
 ascents ; the country in this part was waste and dreary in the 
 extreme, scarcely a single tree relieved the horrid appearance of the 
 mountains. Between Ain Tenee and Castal, we met with an unladen 
 caravan of two hundred camels from Aleppo ; it was conducted by 
 about twenty unarmed Bedouins. After crossing an uncultivated 
 plain, with scarcely any natural verdure, at half-past noon we pitched 
 our tent in the inner court of a Khan, adjoining the village Nebbek, 
 situated on the north side of a hill ; the Tchocodar who accompanied 
 us, by order of the governor of Damascus, having written commands 
 for the Sheiks of the different villages in the Fashalic, to supply 
 us with whatever we might require, desired the chief of this place 
 to provide us with a dinner, and we were very soon satisfied with an 
 abundance of mutton and rice : in the afternoon we were visited by 
 the Sheik and a long suite of peasants. After passing Carraw, in our 
 next day's journey, he recommended us to take an escort, for there 
 were many Bedouins between that village and Hems. At Nebbek 
 there are a few Greek Christians. 
 
 May 6. — At half-past four we commenced our route in a northerly 
 direction, across a barren stony plain, more than an hour in length. 
 At the further extremity, to the east, was the village Deradaiah ; soon 
 afterwards we passed a small eminence, on the top of which were the 
 remains of a square tower ; here we came in view of Carraw, three
 
 320 SYRIA. 
 
 hours' distant from Nebbek. The gate of the Khan, at this place, 
 appears, from some ornaments that remain, to have been the entrance 
 of a church. At Carraw there are about twenty Greek Schismatics j 
 the rest of the inhabitants are Mahometans. To the north of the 
 village we were shown the site of a chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas ; 
 their present place of worship has the appellation of St. Sergius ; the 
 mosque was formerly a church, and, within, tolerably capacious. 
 From a stone in the building we copied the words 'Adocvda-io? 'E-rrlc-y.oTrog : 
 there were also other letters which we could not decypher. About 
 an hour westward of Carraw is the ruined convent, Dar-Mar-Yacoub. 
 Having dismissed our guard of six peasants, with musquets, we took 
 an equal number from this village, and at eight o'clock continued our 
 route to the northward, across low rocky mountains, and after two 
 hours arrived at the very small village Briedy ; here we observed a 
 sarcophagus of white polished marble, used as a drinking-place for 
 cattle. We could perceive the sand-hills to the east, immediately on 
 this side of Palmyra, a distance of nearly ten leagues. At Briedy we 
 relieved our guard, and continuing in an eastern direction, after three 
 hours we arrived at the Khan of Hasseiah ; instead of pitching our 
 tent, we occupied a good warm room provided for us by the Aga. 
 
 After we had passed Carraw, we had the desert to our right, and on 
 our left the sterile mountains eastward of Balbec. Hasseiah is a 
 small village, placed on the confines of the desert, in a most dreary 
 chearless situation. Mussood, the Aga of the place, treated us with 
 marked attention and hospitality ; he told us that his village was five 
 days' journey from Palmyra ; that this was dependent on him, as well 
 as many other places in the neighbourhood, for which he annually 
 paid a certain number of purses to the Porte. He made an offer to 
 conduct us to Palmyra, and added that his father and grandfather had 
 visited those ruins with Englishmen : circumstances, however, com- 
 pelled us to continue our journey to Aleppo, and reluctantly to de- 
 cline visiting Palmyra. In Hasseiah are a few Christian families of 
 the Greek persuasion. 
 
 May 7. — After we had taken leave of our host, who provides us
 
 HEMS. 321 
 
 with an escort of seven horsemen, we continued our route across an 
 uncultivated plain, in a northerly direction, and at eight o'clock ar- 
 rived at the village Chemor. In the N. W. we perceived the lake 
 formed by the Orontes ; and about seven miles distant beyond is the 
 termination of the north part of Libanus. After rather more than an 
 hour, we passed a square stone inclosure to the right, formerly a Khan, 
 now having the appearance of a small village ; hence we crossed an 
 extensive plain, capable of cultivation, but neglected. At noon we 
 entered Hems, and took up our quarters in the house of a Christian, 
 (a banker to the government,) who treated us with the greatest hos- 
 pitality. On the south-west side of the town is a curious Roman 
 monument, which was most probably a sepulchre ; it is a square 
 building of three stages, terminating in a pyramid towards the upper ; 
 there are the remains of pilastres on the sides, which were faced with 
 small black and white stones, placed alternately in a sloping direction. 
 On the west side is an inscription : as much of it as was legible, we, 
 with great difficulty, copied. * 
 
 - - rAIOTIOYAIOY 
 AEHItuNOCTIOT 
 
 - - ixenoiHce - . 
 
 ATTcuKAITOlC - - 
 
 - oicexoTCi — 
 
 This sepulchre is a solid building, arched within, and formed of thin 
 burnt brick and mortar. 
 
 Hems is situated in an immense plain ; and though there is nothing 
 to render its site particularly striking, it is pleasing to observe the 
 great cultivation immediately in the neighbourhood ; chiefly of vine- 
 
 * J'y remarquai encore proche de Ja ville ce sepulcre ancien duquel Belon fait mention 
 avec une inscription Grecque de Caius Cesar, a ce qu'ii dit ; mais apres le soin que j'y ay 
 donnc a la bien lire et a la copier toute, comnie j'ay fait, j'y trouvay un rAIdOTAIH mais 
 non pas Cesar. Pietro de la Valle. Trad. Fran. 331. 1. — E. 
 
 VOL. II. T T
 
 322 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 yards and corn. The town is three miles in its circuit, and appears 
 well inhabited ; the houses are built in general with stone and mud, 
 mixed up with straw ; the streets are paved with a small path-way for 
 camels and horses in the middle : the walls enclosing the town are in 
 a very ruinous condition. This enclosure, of rather a singular con- 
 struction, consisted of a perpendicular wall, against which was raised 
 a bank of earth ; the slope of it towards the country was faced with 
 masonry. The citadel is placed on a lofty eminence, in the south- 
 west ano'le of the town, which is in all appearance artificial, as the 
 site of the castle of Aleppo ; the top of the hill is completely circular, 
 and 130 feet higher than the bottom of the ditch. The upper en- 
 ceinte is about one hundred feet in diameter ; the ditch is sixty feet 
 wide, with a perpendicular counterscarp, thirty feet high : the Saracen 
 fortifications on this height were of excellent workmanship, but are 
 now entirely ruined. As at Alexandria, there are columns placed hori- 
 zontally in different parts of the walls to strengthen the masonry. At 
 Hems we sent a message to the Mufti mentioning our arrival, and 
 that we wished to see the different antiquities in the neighbourhood ; 
 and at the same time requesting a ladder to examine the inscription 
 on the sepulchre. The JNIufti replied, that, without a firman from 
 the Porte, we could see nothing ; that we must make no remarks on 
 paper ; and on no account enter the castle. At present Hems is 
 without a governor, and all is confusion and disorder. When we 
 made our promenade, our guides led us to the citadel, whence we had 
 an opportunity of making every observation we could wish. It ap- 
 pears that the Aga of Hems and the neighbouring villages had been 
 extremely oppressive to the inhabitants, and that in the course of one 
 year he had levied, by means of Avanias and extortions, 4000 purses ; 
 his conduct had of course rendered him extremely odious to the 
 people of Hems ; a party was raised in the town, which showed fre- 
 quently open marks of hostility against the governor. When the 
 Vizier, on his return from Egypt, passed through this place, he ar- 
 rested the Aga, who was compelled to accompany him as far as 
 Aleppo ; and they believe he has since been decapitated. The
 
 HAMAH. 
 
 323 
 
 brother of the Aga, fearing, at the same time, the severity of the 
 Vizier, and the resentment of the inhabitants, has collected all the 
 treasure possible, and fled from the town. 
 
 May 8. — At six o'clock we continued our route to the northward, 
 with an escort of seven horsemen. Soon after leaving Hems we had 
 a very clear view of the valley of Balbec ; Libanus on the west side ; 
 Anti-Libanus on the east ; the former, running N. W. and S. E., is 
 composed of the high mountains of Aqqar to tl>e north ; to the 
 southward, the Kesraouan ; Anti-Libanus, of the mountains of 
 Balbec, to the north ; and Djebail Sheik to the south. After two 
 hours we arrived at the village of Telbeshee, to the right of the road, 
 which our escort dared not approach, on account of the little war be- 
 tween that place and Hems. We were curious to see Telbeshee, 
 because most of the houses are conical, resembling the large pigeon- 
 houses in Egypt. On our arrival we were entreated by the Aga to 
 dismount, and to take some refreshment. We were ushered into a 
 small apartment, filled with the grandees of the place, and a large 
 suite of attendants : here we found the brother of the oovernor of 
 Hems, who had taken refuge at Telbeshee, the inhabitants of which 
 were partizans of his family. Soon after ten we passed the village 
 Rastan, built on a high hill, at the foot of which winds the river 
 Orontes ; its modern name is El-asser, (the Impetuous,) so called 
 from the swiftness of its current. Here we crossed the river over a 
 well-built bridge of ten arches, on the west side of which is a large 
 Khan, with a mosque in the center. Ascending the opposite hill, 
 forming the valley which gives passage to the river, we crossed a 
 plain of excellent soil, though with scarcely any cultivation ; at noon 
 we entered a plain, upon a lower level, the village of Ipshereen, of 
 conical houses, being to our left ; soon afterwards, Kafr Arein, a coni- 
 cal village also, to our right ; and at two o'clock we arrived at Hamah. 
 This day, on our left, we have in view a chain of low mountains, 
 which seem to commence near the lake of the Orontes. Hamah is 
 situated in an oval valley, watered by the Asser, and the houses are 
 built on either side of the river ; the stream of which, after passing by 
 
 T T 2
 
 324 SYRIA. 
 
 Rastan, takes its course to the east ; then to the northward, and flows 
 through Hamah in a westerly direction. The town appears large, be- 
 cause the houses are intermixed with numerous gardens, and placed 
 in a very scattered manner. Nearly in the center of the whole is a 
 circular hill, which appears to have had a regular slope, and was 
 formerly the site of the citadel ; no walls, however, or any remains of 
 building, are to be seen on this eminence. Three bridges, extremely 
 well built, connect the opposite sides of the town. On the north side 
 of the center bridge we observed, in the corner of a wall, a stone about 
 five feet long and two feet high, covered with curious characters. In 
 many parts of the town we saw the capitals of columns, pieces of 
 cornices, and in the court of a mosque a dome supported by eight low 
 pillars of the Corinthian order, which certainly indicate that the good 
 taste for architecture was in its decline at the time of their erection. 
 Under the hill S. AV. of the town, we were shown a small catacomb of 
 four chambers, in which was a stone door having an iron ring let into 
 its surface. 
 
 The most remarkable object at Hamah is the mode of raising water 
 for the supply of the inhabitants ; the town in general being built on 
 ground considerably higher than the level of the river, large Persian 
 wheels are used for the purpose of raising the water ; along the banks of 
 the river are several, and one of the largest, from an accurate measure- 
 ment, we found to be sixty-seven feet in diameter ; the circumference 
 of the wheel is hollow, and divided into partitions, wuth small aper- 
 tures to admit and discharge the water : by means of a dam across 
 the river, a strong current is forced into a narrow channel along the 
 bank, and thus small projecting pieces of wood being disposed at 
 equal distances along the circumference, the wheel turns round on its 
 axle ; the partitions ai'e filled as they pass through the water, and 
 when they arrive at the opposite point above, discharge their con- 
 tents into an aqueduct : the aqueducts are built of stone, supported 
 by irregularly shaped arches, and of course, where the water is first 
 raised, are as high as the wheel : these aqueducts, intermixed with 
 the trees, the movement of the wheels, and the murmuring of the
 
 HAMAH. 325 
 
 water, have a very uncommon and pleasing effect. In no place do 
 these aqueducts extend more than 150 yards from the river : there is 
 an Arabic inscription upon them, most probably recording the name 
 of the founder, and the date of their erection. The wheels are formed 
 in a very slight manner, and with little ingenuity ; the aqueducts are 
 also of a bad irregular kind of architecture ; still, however, the idea 
 was noble, exceedingly useful, and, no doubt, reflects much credit on 
 its author. At Hamah we were entertained at the house of JNlooser- 
 Yasgee, or the JFriter, who treated us with every mark of eastern 
 hospitality : he was a Schismatic Greek. Here, as well as at Hems, 
 all the Christians, who are vei'y numerous, are of that persuasion. 
 Our host, who is one of the most wealthy inhabitants, keeps an open 
 house for the entertainment of every description of strangers who 
 may arrive at Hamah : the court of his house, the day we were his 
 guests, was filled with Sheiks from the Ansarian mountains, Arabs, 
 and other persons, all of whom, more than sixty, were feasted by the 
 liberality of Mooser. In the house of our rich entertainer, we slept 
 in sheets of the finest white silk, which were sewed to a very thin 
 coverlet. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Route to Marrah. — Seraqueb. — Aleppo. — Visit to the Grand Vizier. — Dissensions in 
 that City between the Pasha andJanisaries. — State of the Turkish Government in Si/ria. — 
 Departure of the Grand J'izia- fur Constantinople. — Mamfactorics at Aleppo. — Tur- 
 comans. — Curds. — Elmanas. — Plain of Antioch. — Course of the Orontes. — Tffwas 
 arid Walls ofantient Antioch. — Caramout. — Bcilan. — Scanderootu 
 
 May 9. — As we decided to make two days' short journey to Marrah, 
 instead of one, which would be of twelve hours, we did not leave 
 Hamah till half-past ten in the forenoon. Our route was in a north- 
 westerly direction, having the Orontes on our left : on the west side 
 of the river was the conical village Chasde. Soon after quitting the
 
 326 SYRIA. 
 
 town, the traces of cultivation began to languish, and we saw nothing 
 but fine pasture land, covered with numerous flocks of goats and sheep, 
 and camels, belonging to the Bedouin Arabs, who had small encamp- 
 ments in the neighbourhood. From Hamah, the Orontes takes a 
 westerly direction ; then to the northward, and in less than three 
 hours we again joined the river, its course in this part being to the 
 north-west ; here we observed several fragments of walls, which were, 
 we imao-ined, formerly aqueducts for wheels. At two, P. M., we 
 passed a ruined mill on the river, running here to the south-west, and 
 entered on a fine plain, which only required the plough to render it 
 very productive, then leaving Zuckar, (at some distance on the west 
 side of the river,) and afterwards the conical village of Ziat on the 
 left, we arrived, in a most heavy hail-storm, at Scheikoun, and took up 
 our quarters in a room in the Khan : we were escorted from Hamah 
 by ten Delhi, the regular cavalry of the country. Khan Scheikhoun, 
 about which there are a few houses, is situated on the south side of 
 one of the many circular heights, which we observed this day ; and 
 from their regular appearance, and from the circumstance of their 
 being isolated mounds in an extensive plain, we judged them to be 
 artificial. 
 
 May 10. — At seven this morning, with an escort of five horsemen, 
 and in company with five Delhi, who were conducting a sum of 
 money to the Grand Vizier from Hamah, we continued our journey. 
 This treasure, it seems, consisted of five or six purses, which Ali, 
 governor of the province of Aqqar, north of Tripoli, has sent to the 
 Vizier, with the hopes of gaining his interest, and afterwards the 
 Pashalic of Tripoli. Our route was rather to the eastward of north. 
 After ascending a gentle acclivity, we proceeded across a large plain, 
 whose exuberance in wild herbs and flowers sufficiently announced the 
 fertility of the soil. We passed several Bedouin camps with their flocks. 
 On the road we observed many deep cisterns, and near them a small 
 portal with an architrave of Greek work. A little to the eastward of the 
 road, at ten, we passed the well of Mar-Hattar, having deep and excel- 
 lent water: half an hour beyond this, was the ruined village Hennach,
 
 MARRAH. 327 
 
 on the left. A little before eleven, on one side of the road, we saw 
 in a field a sarcophagus, with a lid on the top : in this place were 
 scattered several large stones ; and we observed the foundation of 
 buildings, and several deep cisterns. At half-past eleven we arrived 
 at Marrah, and were entertained at the house of the chief writer of 
 the place. JMarrah is a large village : the houses are built of stones, 
 badly put together ; but the Khan is really a magnificent building ; 
 it consists of most excellent masonry, with a mosque and bath. The 
 dome of the former is covered with lead, as well as the colonnades, 
 which are on the four sides of the building. Near the Khan is a square 
 minaret, of the same good kind of architecture as the Khan itself In 
 the court of the mosque, we observed from without, (for admission was 
 refused,) a dome supported by eight pillars of the architecture of the 
 lower Greek empire. Not far from the Khan, is the house of an 
 individual, which has a gate of stone : it is of a grey colour, and on 
 the outside is ornamented with crosses and flowers, in the stvle of the 
 early ages of Christianity. The projections at the top and bottom are 
 six inches in diameter, and let into sockets made to receive them ; the 
 door itself is eight inches in thickness : this door is in constant use, 
 and easily moved by a single person. The Khan is on the east side 
 of the village. 
 
 May 11. — At six we commenced our route, with an escort of 
 three horsemen, and shortly after seven, we passed on our left the 
 ruined villages Edanah and Gezasde : on the right of the road there 
 were fragments of pillars and sarcophagi : in three hours we passed 
 the Khan Sibbit. An hour before our arrival, we were informed by 
 some travellers, whom we met, that there were several Arabs on the 
 road, and that yesterday a horseman from the Vizier's army was 
 killed by them, we therefore waited for the escort of the Khasne, 
 or Treasure, as they were far in the rear, that we might form a 
 respectable body for our defence . before our arrival at Khan Sibbit, 
 twenty horsemen, armed v/ith muskets, presented themselves from 
 behind a small hill, on a sudden, and would no doubt have 
 attacked us, liad we not been so formidable a partv j they therefore
 
 328 SYRIA. 
 
 saluted us, and said, that they were only seeking a camel, which 
 had been stolen from them by some other Bedouins in the 
 neighbourhood. The Khan Sibbit is a square inclosure, and fortified 
 with small round towers at the angles. Instead of following the 
 usual route to Surmeen, we accompanied the Khasnr to Seraqueb. 
 On our left we saw the distant village of Daddeer, chiefly inhabited 
 by Greeks ; on our right was Masdebsee and JMurdeer : to the west- 
 ward we saw Kafr Jeubass. Half way between Khan Sibbit and Sera- 
 queb, we passed several large cisterns to the right of the road ; and, 
 in five hours from Marrah, arrived at Seraqueb. Our journey this 
 day was over uncultivated ground, the soil of which, in general ex- 
 cellent, was occasionally intermixed with rock, but more so on the left 
 than to the right : a few olive trees varied the dull uniformity of the 
 scene. Before we arrived at Seraqueb, our Tchocodar went forward 
 to provide us with an apartment. Having dismounted, we had no sooner 
 entered the room that had been set apart for us, than we heard a dis- 
 pute below, between the people of the village and the escort of the 
 Khasne. We immediately went on the terrace of the building ; the 
 Delhi were abusing, in the Turkish language, and in the most violent 
 manner, the Aga and the people who accompanied us. One of the 
 horsemen presented his musquet to the Aga, exclaiming, " Are the 
 English infidels (Djaourler) to be entertained in the best apartment, and 
 we, the soldiers of the Vizier, with his treasure, to be excluded? Let 
 the English dogs go where they please, we will have the apartment." 
 The chief of the Delhi then ascended, with others ; and, as we saw 
 these ruffians were determined to gain their point by force, we 
 decided to mount our horses, and continue our journey. Surmeen 
 is directly west of Seraqueb, and about two leagues distant. Soon 
 after our departure from Seraqueb, we saw the villages Ervis and 
 Benish at some distance on our left ; and, in two hours, we passed 
 several Bedouin encampments ; one of which, consisting of thirty- 
 five tents, was immediately on the road. From Seraqueb we 
 crossed a long plain, of two hours and a half, in a northerly direction ; 
 then a low ridge, which separates a second plain from the first.
 
 ALEPPO. 329 
 
 We passed this, and in two hours arrived at Khan Touman, only a 
 short distance from Aleppo. The country between Seraqueb and 
 Khan Touman is of a reddish soil. Near the Khan, which was built 
 by Touman Bey, the last Mamaluke Caliph of Egypt, is a small vil- 
 lage of conical houses ; to the south of the little height, on which is 
 the village, runs the river Coick to the west, then to the southward : 
 here there is a canal, on a higher level, to conduct the water from 
 this river into the Khan. ^Ve pitched our tent in the village, where 
 we determined to pass the night. 
 
 May 12. — At six o'clock we proceeded across some rocky heights, 
 a little to the eastward of north, leaving our baggage to follow us : 
 in an hour and a half we arrived at a small stone building, with a 
 cupola, where we found ]\Ir. Barker, who had come hither to 
 receive us. 
 
 May 13. — This morning we proceeded, in a large cavalcade, to 
 pay a visit to the Vizier, who was without the town, in a convent of 
 Dervises, very beautifully situated. We were first introduced to a 
 great personage, (brother-in-law of the Vizier,) who was sitting in the 
 apartment of the Reis EfFendi : after pipes and coffee, came the 
 Reis EfFendi himself He speaks French fluently, and had accom- 
 panied the first Turkish embassy, in capacity of secretary, to England. 
 In a few minutes, it was announced that the Grand Vizier was pre- 
 pared to receive us ; and we were ushered, with all due form, into liis 
 apartment. He appeared about sixty years old, with a long, grey 
 beard, and has lost his left eye, by a blow from a Djerid, in his youth. 
 It seems that Aleppo has of late been in a continual state of ferment 
 and rebellion ; the Pasha and the corps of Janissaries being constantly 
 embroiled with each other. The Janissaries, though formerly a 
 respectable military body, area set of persons who, under pretence of 
 forming the garrison of the place, exercise trades and professions, 
 oppose the extortions, and even the just claims of the Pasha. At 
 Tripoli, the Pashas have been frequently expelled by the power of 
 the Janissaries. At Aleppo there are more than twelve thousand 
 Janissaries ; and their chief officers, now the Vizier is arrived, hav^ 
 
 VOL. n. u u
 
 330 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 taken refuge in the Desert, fearing his determination to punish them. 
 When the presence of His Highness is removed, there will be as much 
 tumult and commotion as ever. 
 
 The weakness of the Turkish government cannot appear in a 
 stronger light than in the province of Syria, almost the whole of 
 which is held by governors, in a state of rebellion ; who have the 
 resemblance, or so great a reality, of power, that the forces of the 
 Porte are not deemed adequate to subdue them. The mountains of 
 Libanus, and part of Anti-Libanus, belong to a family wholly in- 
 dependent of Constantinople. Dgezzar, building fortifications, and 
 establishing himself as a little prince, bids defiance to his enemies : 
 the people of Tripoli depose and confirm whom they please, as their 
 governor. Between Damascus and Aleppo one village is at war with 
 another; some, profiting by the extortions of an Aga, espouse his 
 cause; while the body of the people, exhausted by continual op- 
 pressions, will not allow him a residence amongst them. This have 
 we seen at Hems, Hamah, and the villages adjacent. On the gulf of 
 Scanderoon, Kutchuk Ali, (Little Ali,) of Paias, (a wretched, in- 
 considerable town,) with two hundred followers, has been a declared 
 rebel, and the cause of the most serious alarm to the government, for 
 forty years : he allows no one to pass through his territory, without 
 exactincp an enormous contribution. If a ship anchors before Paias, 
 he endeavours to make the crew prisoners, to take possession of the 
 ship, and demands a ransom for the people. The Dutch consul at 
 Aleppo, (INIr. Masseyk,) on his return from Constantinople to that 
 city, while passing through the country of Kutchuk Ali, was seized 
 by order of the tyrant, and confined eight months in chains, unti] 
 he could procure a sufficient sum for his release. Tiiis Pasha 
 is without money, and has but a handful of men ; yet the Vizier, 
 with three thousand troops, on his return through Asia JNIinor, is 
 obliged to make a great detour, in order to avoid too near an ap- 
 proach to the domain of this rebel. The caravans coming from Asia 
 Minor to Aleppo are compelled to go a journey of fifteen days out 
 of their route, that they may not pass through the territory of Ali.
 
 ALEPPO. 331 
 
 Saturday, May 14. — This day we made several visits to the Jews 
 and Frank merchants, who have taken up their residence at Aleppo ; 
 and, in the afternoon, paid our respects to Ibrahim, Pasha of the 
 district, an old man, and formerly a farrier in the town. Yesterday 
 there was much rain, and the climate cold, as in England. 
 
 May 15. — This afternoon we were conducted to the castle. There 
 was some difficulty in obtaining admission : the Pasha had said, that, 
 in order to see the armoury, we must make particular application to 
 the Reis EfFendi. The secretary hesitated on this important point, 
 ,told the messenger he would talk to the Vizier on the subject, who 
 gave orders to the Aga of the castle that we should be received. It 
 is situated on an artificial height, towards the north-east part of the 
 town, and is nearly of a circular figure. The outer slope, from the 
 summit of the hill to the bottom of the ditch, has been covered with 
 masonry. The ditch is about sixty feet wide, and has a counterscarp 
 twenty feet high, formed partly of the natural rock, partly of masonry. 
 The outer circumference along the edge of the ditch is nearly three 
 quarters of a mile. The entrance is on the east side : the perpen- 
 dicular height of the hill may be one hundred and twenty feet, from 
 the bottom of the ditch. Tlie passage is supported by arches, sub- 
 stantial, well-built, though in a very tasteless manner. After having 
 passed through three gates of solid iron, half an inch in thickness, we 
 arrived at the interior of the castle ; and were immediately con- 
 ducted, to use the words of the Reis Effi^ndi, to " the inexhaiistihle 
 treastiri/ of Aleppo.^' 
 
 We entered a large well-built hall, arched and supported by pillars, 
 in which we literally saw nothing but a few arrows, damaged sabres 
 and musquets ; a few dusty cuirasses, and some rusty iron helmets, 
 probably used in the time of the Crusades : these, with some other 
 rubbish, and wooden shovels, &c., composed the whole contents of 
 the armoury. Every thing that relates to fortifications or warlike 
 implements the Turks make of the utmost importance : they imagine 
 that the Franks are spies, that they wish to take plans of their military 
 works, and they show a ruined tower open on all sides, and without 
 
 u u 2
 
 332 SYRIA. 
 
 any defence, with the greatest caution and jealousy. The walls of the 
 castle are about sixteen feet high ; and in a very decayed state : they 
 are certainly mounted with cannon, but there is not a single gun on a 
 carriage in the castle ;, besides, the Turks have shown the greatest 
 economy ; for in many places one cannon has been divided into two, 
 and placed in different parts of the rampart : the old guns scattered 
 about the interior of the castle are in general of a small calibre ; and 
 perhaps all of them are not unserviceable. Near the entrance a gun 
 with a bore five inches in diameter, is pointed through a loop-hole 
 two inches in width. The castle is completely filled with houses, and 
 quite a little town of itself: it is supplied with water by means of a 
 well four hundred feet in depth. The water is raised by means of a 
 reel, which raises one bucket, while the other descends : the reel turns 
 round on a pivot, which rests on a small mass of masonry. The 
 horse which works the machine, when the bucket arrives at tiie top, 
 by a certain word from the driver, turns and continues his labour in 
 a contrary direction. From the fortress is a commanding view of the 
 town. There are many cypresses interspersed through the city, 
 which, with the domes and minarets of the mosques, the neat ap- 
 pearance of the houses, and the gardens without, afford a magnificent 
 prospect to the beholder. 
 
 May 16. — This day we visited the Reis EfFendi, intending after- 
 wards to pay our compliments to the Vizier : the latter, however, 
 was so much engaged that the Reis EfFendi requested us to defer 
 our visit to the following morning. The head of Hussein, Aga of 
 Antab, who was strangled on the fourteenth instant, by order of the 
 Vizier, was exposed on the side of the road through the camp, for 
 the satisfaction of the public. This Aga, it appears, had been 
 extremely tyrannical and oppressive towards the people of" Antab, 
 and the town had been almost deserted on account of the avanias 
 of the Aga. The Vizier had decided on his death ; and it is curious 
 to observe what methods the Turkish government is obliged to adopt 
 in order to obtain the ordinary ends of justice. The Vizier sends a
 
 ALEPPO. 333 
 
 full pardon to Hussein for his vexatious conduct towards his subjects ; 
 he ev-en entreats him to pass a few days with His Highness at Aleppo ; 
 the Aga arrives with a train of six hundred followers : the Vizier in- 
 vests him with a fur ; and treats him with every mark of distinction : 
 he is fearful of seeing his victim in the camp, and applies for the 
 interference of the Pasha of Aleppo, who prepares a sumptuous 
 repast in honour of the Aga : the unsuspecting Hussein accepts the 
 invitation, and repairs to the fortress, accompanied by very few of 
 his domestics : in the midst of the entertainment he is seized by the 
 myrmidons of the Pasha ; thrown into confinement, and three or 
 four days afterwards is strangled. It was reported that Hussein 
 suffered many torments before his death, with a view to extort a con- 
 fession where his treasure was secreted ; he persisted, however, in an 
 absolute denial of his riches, asserting to the last, that he was poor 
 and greatly in debt. When the executioner arrived to perform his 
 office, the Aga declared that the hour of his death was ordered by 
 God ; that he died contented, and only requested that after his 
 execution his face might be turned towards the holy city. Osman, 
 Aga of Hems, is still with the Vizier, and it is supposed that for a 
 large ransom he will obtain his release. 
 
 After our visit to the Reis EfFendi, we made a pleasant tour on our 
 horses through the gardens to the northward of the town : in the 
 afternoon we walked to Bab-el-Nasr, (the Gate of Victory,) to examine 
 a Greek inscription. It is at the angle of the wall, about five feet 
 from the ground : the stone is so placed, that the writing is perpen- 
 dicular to the horizon. 
 
 May 17. — This day the Vizier, with his army, began his march 
 towards Constantinople. In the forenoon we made our visit of leave 
 to His Highness, and afterwards joined the family of JNIr. Barker in a 
 garden close to the road along which would pass the grand procession 
 of the Vizier and his suite : before noon his departure was announced 
 by minute guns from the castle ; and shortly afterwards the pro- 
 cession moved forward in the following order :
 
 334 SYRIA. 
 
 A few Tatars with two streamers ; 
 
 Some Delhi (the native cavalry ;) 
 
 Tatars ; 
 
 Fourteen led Horses ; 
 
 A Corps of Delhi ; 
 
 A four-wheeled Carriage drawn by eight horses ; 
 
 Six JVIules for the Tartrevan ; 
 
 The Vizier's Tartrevan (a close carriage) ; 
 
 Three Standards and two Tails * ; 
 
 Some Horsemen ; 
 
 The Vizier. 
 
 Two standards ; 
 
 A Corps of Cavalry ; 
 
 Four Camels ; 
 
 Cavalry ; 
 
 The Tartrevan of the Reis EfFendi ; 
 
 Seven led Horses ; 
 The Reis Eifendi (smoking a pipe). 
 Cavalry ; 
 Three Standards ; 
 A Band of Music ; 
 Three Mules ; 
 Tartrevan of the Defterdar (Chancellor) ; 
 Seven led Horses ; 
 The Defterdar ; 
 Three Mules ; 
 Tartrevan of the Tufekgi Bashi (Chief of the musqueteers) ; 
 
 Tufekgi Bashi ; 
 Six Standards ; 
 Corps of Albanian Cavalry.- 
 
 * One of the tails had been sent forward two days before.
 
 ALEPPO. 
 
 335 
 
 The procession moved forward with very little regularity: there 
 were not more than five hundred persons in the whole ; and, though 
 the Turkish dresses made a pompous appearance, and the fine 
 trappings of the horses, and the horses themselves have great advan- 
 tage on occasions of this kind, we were not impressed with a hio-h 
 idea of Ottoman magnificence. 
 
 May 18. — This day a courier was dispatched to Constantinople: 
 he will arrive there in eight days, an unusually short journey * : the 
 Tatar even said, that he should be there in seven : the couriers are 
 in general twelve days on the road between Aleppo and Constanti- 
 nople, a distance of more than seven hundred miles : they have been 
 known to reach the capital, several times, on the eighth day from their 
 leaving Aleppo. 
 
 On our visit of leave to the Vizier, there was a mean dirty looking 
 fellow sitting beside him and smoking: this man, it appears, was a 
 Santon, and consequently with the Turks privileged to remain with 
 the people of the first distinction, and to act as he pleases : during 
 our conference, this reputed saint was employed in picking off the 
 vermin from his body. 
 
 Since the departure of the Vizier, forty-three Janissaries, the 
 principal rebels, having been proscribed, the Pasha has placed some 
 troops in the castle, and is determined to prevent their return to the 
 city. 
 
 May 19. — This afternoon we visited some of the best built houses 
 in Aleppo, the property of Christians : they were constructed of a 
 hard stone, and the workmanship excellent : they consist, with very 
 little variation, of a square court with a fountain in the center, and a 
 few trees and shrubs on one side of it. Tiie apartments are on the 
 sides of this court : some of them have fountains ; are painted in very 
 
 • The reader will compare the journey of Cesariiis. " In the time of Theodosius, 
 Cesarius, a magistrate of high rank, went from Antioch to Constantinople, post ; he began 
 his journey at night; was in Cappadocia, 165 miles from Antioch, the ensuing evening, 
 and arrived at Constantinople the sixth day about noon. The whole distance was 7-5 
 Roman, or GG5 English miles." Gibbon, i. p. S3. — E.
 
 336 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 gaudy colours, and have cushions and low sofas around them : the 
 ceiling is in general extremely expensive, being adorned with a 
 profusion of gilding: one room in particular, in the house of a man 
 named Abdany, was very curiously wrought, and in a very superior 
 style of workmanship : it had been finished fifty years, and the orna- 
 ments were as fresh, and in as good preservation, as if they had been 
 the labour of yesterday. The rooms are high, and have a large painted 
 window, at the top of which is a wide shelf, where it was formerly the 
 custom to arrange large bowls with small cups in the intervals, the best 
 workmanship of India : we saw three or four apartments fitted up in 
 this sort of taste, now nearly out of fashion at Aleppo. Many parts 
 of the square court, which in a summer evening is always much 
 frequented, are paved with a variety of marbles, in Mosaic work : 
 among other stones we observed pieces of porphyry, serpentine, and 
 the breccia verde of Egypt. 
 
 May 20. — This afternoon we passed through a gate in the south- 
 east part of the town, to the eastward of which are some extensive 
 excavations, which may have been originally quarries ; the entrance 
 into them is at the bottom of the side of a rock ; and on a level with 
 the ground there are many intricate turnings within, and in several 
 instances whole chambers have been filled up by the falling of the 
 soil from above : there are circular shafts in different parts communi- 
 cating with the surface of the ground for the admission of light and 
 air. We returned through the gate of Antioch (Bab Antakie) ; a little 
 above which, from a part of the town called Aggibar (or the Steep), we 
 had a commanding view of the gardens and valley to the westward of 
 the city. Close to this spot is a small mosque with a stone in 
 its walls, having an inscription, much obliterated, yet resembling 
 hieroglyphics. 
 
 Each Thursday, being the eve of the JNIahometan Sabbath, tlje 
 principal mosques are illuminated on the outside : the lamps are 
 placed around the gallery of the minaret, and have a very pleasing 
 effect. 
 
 May 21. — This day we set out at seven in the morning, and in two
 
 ALEPPO. 33Y 
 
 hours and a half arrived at Heilan, a deserted village to the northward 
 of Aleppo : at this place we pitched a tent. Our route was along a 
 narrow valley, through which ran the stream of the Coick, watering a 
 continued garden, chiefly of fruit trees, extending the whole length of 
 the valley : on either side are rocky heights, which form an agreeable 
 contrast with the verdure between them. About an hour from the 
 town, is a small spring called Ain-el Tell. 
 
 The river Coick has its rise at Antab, three days' journey from 
 Aleppo, to the northward. After winding through a plain above 
 Heilan, its course is through the gardens along the west side of the 
 town ; then to the eastward, afterwards south, losing itself in a lake. 
 The inhabitants of the city are supplied with water from two springs, 
 about a quarter of a mile south of Heilan, and on the east side of 
 the valley ; and this by means of an aqueduct two feet wide, and run- 
 ning for a long distance parallel to the Coick, and fifteen feet above 
 the level of that river : it enters the town towards the north-east. 
 At Heilan is a small artificial height, and at the further extremity of 
 an extensive plain, of a reddish soil, tolerably well cultivated, are two 
 others, which though not so large, resemble those we have before 
 observed on the road between Damascus and Aleppo. The water of 
 the two springs near Heilan joins the Coick immediately at the head 
 of the valley, about one mile from their source. 
 
 May 22. — This afternoon we visited one of the principal manu- 
 factories of the finest stuffs that are made at Aleppo : there may be 
 fourteen or fifteen of these buildings in the town, with about one 
 hundred looms in each : these stuffs consist of silk, and India cotton, 
 and are ornamented with flowers worked with gold and bright- 
 coloured silks in a very ingenious manner. Many of the patterns are 
 striped, but though their stuffs are much esteemed by the Orientals, 
 they are not in general well adapted to the taste of Europeans. The 
 looms are worked by a man and two boys : one of the latter sits 
 above the loom, and by the movement of the different threads he 
 regulates the pattern : these three earn about fifteen piastres, or one 
 guinea, in the week : the stuffs are two feet in width ; and the three 
 
 VOL. n. X X
 
 338 SYRIA. 
 
 workmen generally complete thirteen inches of the length of the 
 stuff in a day. The Mahometans, as well as the Christians, are en- 
 saged in this manufacture ; though the Christian weavers are much 
 more numerous than the others. A kind of velvet is also made here, 
 besides cotton stuffs in imitation of India shawls, and knives and 
 swords of a very inferior description. Not long since there was a 
 glass manufactory at Aleppo, which has now ceased to exist on 
 account of the smallness of the demand for that article : here is also 
 a manufactory of soap. 
 
 A little after sunset this day the firing of a gun from the castle 
 announced the execution of a Janissary, one of the proscribed, who 
 had been taken the day before in a neighbouring village : it appears 
 that the Pasha and one of his sons (the receiver of the customs) had 
 made out the list of the Janissaries who had been marked as rebels, 
 consulting, as usual, their own passion and caprice, rather than the 
 real guilt or dangerous character of the individuals. The unfortunate 
 wretch who was executed this day had given offence to the son of 
 the Pasha, because he had offered an asylum to one of his debtors in 
 a coffee-house, of which the Janissary was the proprietor ; this exas- 
 perated JMustapha (the receiver of the customs), and he was glad to 
 embrace so fair an opportunity of revenge. The principal cause of 
 the disgrace of Achmet Aga (one of the Chiefs of the Janissaries) 
 was his having refused to present a fine Arab horse to the Vizier, 
 which had been demanded from him by His Highness. The Aga was 
 at the Vizier's camp, on the borders of the desert, before the battle 
 of Matarea in Egypt : here the Vizier made the demand, with which 
 the Aga refused to comply ; in consequence, the Aga was thrown into 
 confinement, his horse taken from him, and he, no doubt, would have 
 been strangled, had not one of the grandees of the camp undertaken 
 to intercede in his favour : so that, after paying an enormous ransom, 
 and losing his horse, the unfortunate Aga was released from his 
 captivity, and returned to Aleppo. When the Vizier arrived here, 
 Achmet, with several others, who had reason to fear the designs of 
 the Vizier, fled from the town into the villages, and forty-three of
 
 ALEPPO. 
 
 339 
 
 the most obnoxious were proscribed: Achmet Aga was amongst 
 them. 
 
 At Aleppo there are three different parties, which continually 
 occasion tumults and insurrection in the city : the Pasha and his 
 party ; the Janissaries ; and the ScherifFs, the pretended relations of 
 Mahomet. With the Turks every thing is decided by force ; and 
 according to their strength the Pasha and his troops, or the Janissa- 
 ries, keep the people in subjection. These last, at Aleppo, amount 
 to nine or ten thousand persons : originally, this body was intended 
 as the regular armed force of the government ; most of them, how- 
 ever, exercise trades and professions, and from certain privileges 
 attached to the title they are extremely insolent and overbearing. 
 
 May 24. — In the afternoon we made an excursion on the outside 
 of the town ; which, including the suburbs, may be four miles in its 
 circuit. The walls, which, from their remains, appear to have been 
 of good Saracen architecture, are so much ruined, and confused with 
 the houses, that in most parts it is not possible to discover them. On 
 the south side is a deep excavation in a chalky soil between the 
 walls of the town and the country, which seems to have been the 
 labour of man : the bottom of this ditch is covered with plantations 
 of artichoke. 
 
 Aleppo is surrounded, on all sides, by low rocky heights : the soil, 
 except in the valley, which gives passage to the Coick, is, in most 
 parts, intermixed with rock. The river takes its course west of the 
 town, and the plantations of pistachioes, (a tree peculiar to Aleppo,) 
 not requiring much water, or a rich soil, are, for the most part, to the 
 eastward. 
 
 May 25. — The Turcomans are a wandering set of people*, who, 
 in the winter months, migrate from the northern parts of Asia Minor, 
 and, during that period, occupy with their numerous flocks the plains of 
 Antioch. They never pass towards the southward beyond the limits of 
 
 * The Turcomans live always in the field. Russell, i. 389. 
 
 X x 2
 
 340 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 the Pashalic of Aleppo. Their numbers, in Syria, seldom exceed five 
 thousand. They return to a cooler climate at the latter end of April. 
 In the same manner as the Bedouins, they are divided and subdivided 
 into tribes and families. These also claim a right of plundering all, 
 and treating them as enemies, who pass their territory, without seek- 
 ing their protection, or acknowledging their sovereignty by a present. 
 V^Hien their friendship is once gained, they are punctual in their en- 
 gagements. They are remarkable for a fine, stout breed of horses ; 
 and the camel amongst the Turcomans, from the richness of the pas- 
 ture, is large and fleshy, and very different from the meagre lank ap- 
 pearance of the camel in the Desert. The Turcomans are a numerous 
 race of people : they extend themselves as far as Angora, in Asia 
 Minor. The present chief of those in the neighbourhood of Antioch 
 is called Heidar Aga, of the family of Moursal. 
 
 The Curds*, like the Turcomans, lead a pastoral life: in Syria 
 they occupy the mountains between Aleppo and the sea ; and 
 never pass farther to the southward than Antioch. Their number 
 amounts to between four and five thousand The Curds have vil- 
 lages amongst them, though in summer, like the Turcomans, their 
 ordinary residence is under tents. These also exact a tribute from 
 travellers, though their faith once plighted in your favour, you need 
 never suspect their sincerity. Their women make a coarse sort of 
 carpet, which is tinged with different colours. The reigning chief 
 of the Curds near Aleppo is named Cossum Aga, of the family of 
 Ommou. 
 
 May 26. — The Arabs, who in general conduct the caravans from 
 Aleppo across the Desert, are of the tribe of the Anizes : their chief, 
 Ali-Abdallah, is of the family of Mehamma-el-Fordal. Mr. Mas- 
 seyk mentioned a tribe of Arabs, called Sleyle, who are mounted on 
 
 • The Curds inhabit a great part of Amanus, and the neighbouring mountains; and 
 subsist chiefly by plunder. Some of them are employed as reapers about Aleppo.— 
 Russell's Aleppo, ii. 34'0.
 
 ALEPPO. 341 
 
 asses, and carry guns, with matchlocks. They are excellent marks- 
 men, and live almost entirely on antelopes : they eat the flesh of 
 the animal, and clothe themselves with its skin. They follow cara- 
 vans, in their journey across the deserts near Aleppo, and supply 
 them with antelopes. 
 
 May 27. — A few days since, we received information from Alex- 
 andretta, that Georgius Bess, the minister of the young prince at 
 Dgebail, had, according to his promise, sent us the stones, which are 
 found in the neighbouring mountains. At Aleppo there is very 
 good fresh butter, which is brought from Armenia. The butter is 
 preserved in dibs, or in honey * : the butter is pressed down in the 
 case which contains it, and covered with the liquor ; and, even twelve 
 or fourteen months after its arrival, it is as sweet and well-tasted as if 
 made but yestei'tlay. 
 
 There have been some partial attacks of the plague at Aleppo 
 within these few days ; but as yet there are no apprehensions that it 
 will become general. 
 
 May 28. Friday. — This afternoon we rode to some very agreeable 
 gardens westward of the city. The river Coick, taking its course in this 
 direction, enlivens the verdure, and renders the little kiosks, or plea- 
 sure-houses, in the midst of them, cool and grateful in the extreme. 
 The Pasha, it appears, not content with preventing the proscribed 
 Janissaries from entering the city, is searching for them in the dif- 
 ferent villages in the neighbourhood. The Pasha's force at Aleppo 
 consists of three thousand horsemen, most of whom are encamped 
 under the walls. The expence of these, with the maintenance of his 
 household, is so great, that it is thought, from his poverty, he will not 
 long hold the government of the city. 
 
 May 29. — The streets of Aleppo are paved, for foot passengers, 
 on each side ; and the bazars, in general, are arched with stone, or 
 
 • Dipse is applied in the East both to date-honey and raisin-honey. Compare Shaw, 
 p. 143. and p. 339. In the latter sense it is used in Genesis, xliii. 11. " Carry down to 
 the man a little balm, and a little dipse." Shaw, 339. — E.
 
 342 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 covered with a roof of wood. They are neither so large nor so well 
 built as those at Damascus ; neither is there a display of so much 
 wealth and commerce at this town as at the other. The mosques of 
 Aleppo, though few, are, in general, of a good architecture, consisting 
 of a square court, suiTOunded by a colonnade. The mosque itseH' is 
 a square building, having a cupola for its roof, (about forty feet in 
 diameter,) which is covered with lead. The Minaret (or steeple) is 
 light, and of well-constructed masonry. Most of the houses are sur- 
 mounted with domes, and small cupolas, which, from their dispo- 
 sition, are not elegant, though they give to the interior a noble ap- 
 pearance. The khans, and dwelling-places for the merchants, consist 
 of a large square court, paved, with two arched colonnades, one above 
 the other, along the four sides of the building. The spaces between 
 the arches of the upper colonnade are blocked up with masonry. 
 This part is converted into dwelling-places, while the corridor below 
 furnishes magazines for merchandise. In the middle of these khans 
 there is generally a mosque, surmounted with a cupola. The masonry 
 of the whole is extremely neat and substantial. The Frank merchants 
 and consuls have their houses in khans, which are always shut up 
 in the evening. At Aleppo the shops are closed before sunset : 
 tlie people retire to their houses ; and, after the evening prayer, 
 not a person is seen, nor a voice heard, to disturb the stillness of 
 night. 
 
 June L 1802. — Yesterday Mr. Laurella, our late companion, re- 
 turned from the camp of the Vizier, whither he had been to transact 
 some business with His Highness. When the Vizier approached 
 Antab, the inhabitants, having understood that Achmet Aga, son of 
 the Pasha of Aleppo, had been named, as successor to their late 
 governor, threw stones at some of the messengers of the Vizier, 
 which even reached the tents of His Highness himself They showed 
 also other marks of discontent : the Vizier, in consequence, ordered 
 several to be imprisoned, loading them with chains, and rewarding 
 their mutinous activity with thirty strokes of the bastinado on the 
 • soles of their feet : two of the ringleaders were executed. The
 
 ALEPPO. 34g 
 
 Vizier had contrived to secure the treasures of the Aga, who was 
 strangled at Aleppo, which, for the most part, were sold by public 
 auction in his camp. Even the jewels and trinkets of the women 
 were disposed of. Two of the most refractory rebels of the party 
 of the late Aga, one of them the Tufekgi, or chief of the mus- 
 queteers, were strangled by his order. During his stay at Aleppo, 
 the Vizier sent troops into the mountains to the westward, to seize 
 the chief of the Curds. These fell in with a party of the moun- 
 taineers, whom they attacked, but with little success ; for they were 
 soon compelled to retire and fall back on Antab. The Vizier 
 made a second attempt, which was equally ineffectual as the first. 
 At present he is not accompanied by more than one thousand 
 followers. 
 
 June 2. — During our stay at Aleppo, the thermometer, in a cool 
 room, was generally at 74°, and the wind westerly, in the day blowincr 
 fresh : at present there is no dew. 
 
 June 3. — At six this afternoon, after having taken leave of our 
 friends at Aleppo, we proceeded on our journey for Scanderoon. Our 
 caravan consisted of seventeen animals, mules and horses. At nine 
 we passed Khan Touman, W. S. W. of Aleppo, then took a westerly 
 direction across uneven ground, until eleven, when we halted near a 
 well immediately on the road. In this spot were several cisterns, small 
 hillocks of earth, and many cut stones, which induced us to imagine 
 that this was once the site of a town. Indeed the place is called 
 Kafr Jown. We had with us a firman from the Pasha of Aleppo, 
 desiring the Sheiks of the different villages to supply us with what- 
 ever we might require ; besides an escort of horsemen as a guard. 
 At Khan Touman, we were told, there have been attacks of the 
 plague. 
 
 June 4. — At six A. j\I. we continued our journey in a westerly 
 direction, and a little before nine passed a ruined village : our road 
 then led to the southward of west, across a very extensive plain, in a 
 good state of cultivation : at ten we arrived at the small village Zedany, 
 where there are many cisterns, and a small circular height, on the
 
 344 
 
 SYRIA. 
 
 east side of the place, apparently artificial : one hour beyond is Rama- 
 dan ; and at noon we arrived at JVIaat-mishereen. From Zedany to this 
 place our route was nearly in a westerly direction : in these different 
 places we have heard of a few persons having been attacked by the 
 plague. We proceeded over some rocky, uncultivated ground, to the 
 north-west, and in less than an hour crossed a plain in a northerly direc- 
 tion, which is well cultivated, and where there are many plantations 
 of olive trees ; here are also several artificial heights. We traversed this 
 valley in its breadth : it runs east and west ; and on the south side is a 
 well. We entered the mountains -y and after passing a very cragged 
 road towards the east of north, we encamped in one of the most wild 
 romantic spots that can be imagined, near a spring of fresh water, 
 under a rock, and shaded by a single fig-tree. This fountain is called 
 Ain-el Razee : it is encompassed on all sides by rocks, with scarcely 
 any verdure, except in the little cavities, and separations between them. 
 At our entrance into these mountains we passed the small village 
 Ashat on our left, built on the summit of a circular, isolated rock, 
 which is so rugged and abrupt, that one would think it inaccessible. 
 In the early part of this day's journey, we observed several ruined and 
 abandoned villages : the soil of the plains was of a reddish colour, 
 and in the large plain, before our arrival at Maat-mishereen, extend- 
 ing south, as far as the eye could reach, we remarked an extraordinary 
 degree of cultivation. 
 
 June 5. — At five A. M. we continued our route in a north-west 
 direction, over very rough mountains, in several parts of which we 
 were obliged to dismount ; and in two hours we arrived at a large 
 village, called Elmanas, on the south side, and near the head of a lone 
 valley, extending from the east to the westward. In this plain are 
 several artificial mounds, similar to those we have often observed in 
 the most level parts of the country : on the north side of the valley is 
 the village Bayardes ; and on the mountains above Hoseree, in this 
 valley, are a quantity of olive-trees, vineyards, and orchards of pome- 
 granates. Elmanas is in a very beautiful situation, and surrounded on 
 all sides by rich gardens ; but unfortunately it is now visited by the
 
 ORONTES. 345 
 
 plague. Here we passed the high mountahis bounding the plain to 
 the northward, and continuing our road still to the north-west, we soon 
 came in sight of a most magnificent and extensive prospect, consisting 
 of an immense plain, bounded to the north by very lofty mountains. 
 Across the plain flows the Orontes, making a very serpentine course, 
 and entering the valley from the south-west. We descended the 
 mountains, and a little before ten arrived at Salkeen, on the south side 
 of the valley, but far separated from the river, by a ridge of heights 
 running between them : here we were presented with a large piece 
 of snow, which the inhabitants had procured from the neishbour- 
 ing mountains. We sent the Pasha's firman to the Sheik of the 
 village, which was worded in such particular terms, that he thought 
 proper to accompany us himself, attended by eleven horsemen. 
 We soon entered the plain, and after passing a small encampment of 
 Curds, we joined the banks of the Orontes. Their tents were in 
 general of coarse black cloth, and the walls of reeds, formed into 
 matting. This plain, we were told, in the winter is entirely covered 
 with the numerous tents of the Turcomans, which circumstance ren- 
 ders the road very dangerous and insecure. Towards the north side 
 of the plain, we observed a lake about a mile distant from the Orontes : 
 it is called Bahr Jagira, is formed of several small streams from the 
 neighbouring mountains, and communicates with the river. After 
 passing over an uncultivated plain, covered with thistles, fertile 
 enough, if we may judge from the exuberance of the weeds, we 
 pitched our tents on the east side of the river, and close to a stone 
 bridge of four arches, called Geseer Hadeed : this bridge has gates, 
 coated with iron, so that it still claims, and retains its antient appella- 
 tion of " The iron bridge,'" Geseer Hadeed in Arabic. The river 
 through the plain of Antioch, part of which we had just traversed, is 
 rapid, and in general about thirty yards in width : in tlie beginning of 
 July it is fordable in many parts. On the west side of the bridge is 
 the village of Geseer Hadeed, consisting of about twenty houses 
 of mats, inhabited by Curds, and tributary to the Moutsellim of 
 Antioch. 
 
 VOL. II. Y Y
 
 346 SYRIA. 
 
 June 6. — A little after five A. M. we passed the bridge, and con- 
 tinued our route in a N.N.W. direction, across an uncultivated plain, 
 in which we observed two villages on our left, one on an artificial height, 
 the other on the top of a hill. Travelling to the W. S. W., along the 
 south side of a plain, bounded to the north and east by lofty moun- 
 tains, at a quarter before nine we arrived at Bab Paulos, one of the 
 antient gates of the city of Antioch : immediately within, is a clear 
 spring of excellent water, shaded with trees. A mile before we ar- 
 rived at the gate, we observed the remains of pavement : thence, to 
 the distance of nearly six hundred yards, is a paved road, having on 
 either side most pleasant gardens, abounding in all the fruits of the 
 country. This road continues to the entrance of the present Antioch, 
 about half a mile distant from Bab Paulos : we passed through the 
 town, crossed the stone bridge towards the western extremity, and 
 at half-past nine pitched our tent near the road to Beilan, and im- 
 mediately on the bank of the Orontes. 
 
 The plain of Antioch, through which was our route both yesterday 
 and to-day, is nearly of a square figure, each side about twelve miles in 
 its leno'th : it is bounded on all sides by lofty mountains : those towards 
 the north are the highest. Immediately under these heights is the 
 lake, which is nearly thirty-five miles in its circuit : there are several 
 small islands scattered over its surface. The general direction of the 
 Orontes through the plain, though its course is extremely irregular, is 
 from south to north ; then it enters the narrow plain of Antioch, and 
 flows to the westward, but close to the town : here it is very rapid 
 in its course. In many places the water has been raised to different 
 levels, to work corn-mills, or to turn Persian wheels ; some few of 
 which there are at Antioch similar to those at Hamah, though by no 
 means of so magnificent a construction : the wheels themselves in- 
 deed are well made, and at least thirty feet in diameter : the conduit 
 for the water is merely a wooden trough, placed on a wall a few yards 
 in length, and of very bad work in appearance. 
 
 At present the plague rages at Antioch ; and there have been fre- 
 quent instances of thirty, and once thirty-nine deaths in a day : already
 
 ANTIOCH. g^^ 
 
 upwards of one thousand persons have perished. Elias, a Christian, 
 to whom we presented a letter from Mr. Barker, made us a visit at 
 our tent, and told us that in consequence of the infection, he had long 
 since cut oiF all communication with the inhabitants : he was extremely 
 civil, and undertook to supply us with whatever provisions miwht be 
 required. We had also two letters for the j\Joutsellim of the town ; 
 one from the Pasha of Aleppo, the other from JNIr. Barker : these 
 we sent to the governor, who immediately presented us with a sheep. 
 June 7. — Antioch (now called Antakie) is situated on the south 
 bank of the Orontes, and at the foot of some very abrupt lofty moun- 
 tains, part of which was once included wathin the walls of the city: 
 its length was about three quarters of a mile, and greatest breadth 
 seven or eigliL hundred yards. The walls which now exist, thouo-h 
 much ruined, mark the antient boundary of Antioch : they were built 
 since the introduction of Christianity : the form of them is nearly of 
 a rectangular figure; of the longest sides, running north-west and 
 south-east, one confined the town on the plain, the other passed alono- 
 the ridge of precipices above : the short sides were partly in the 
 plain, partly along the slope of the mountains. Though there may 
 have been several sally-ports in different parts of the fortification, it 
 does not appear that there are more than five principal gates to the 
 city : that towards the north, Bab Geniun ; the present Bab Paulos, to 
 the east J Bab Hadeed, leading to a deep ravine on the south; a 
 fourth called Bab Lataquie, on the west side ; and the fifth, in the 
 north-west angle of the inclosure of the city, called Bab-el-Geseer. 
 The walls are about twenty feet high, and flanked with square towers 
 at intervals : they are built of an excellent hard stone, of which the 
 surrounding mountains are composed, much resembling the stone of 
 the temple of Balbec, The workmanship of the whole is exceedino-lv 
 good, and in many parts courses of brickwork are introduced between 
 the masonry. In the towers there are in general three floors, one above 
 the other ; and the two upper are supported by arches of solid brick- 
 work. The height of the walls along the slope of the mountain is 
 
 Y Y 2
 
 348 SYRIA. 
 
 regulated by the direction of the ground. Towards the east angle of 
 the south side there is a deep ravine, formed by two precipices, almost 
 perpendicular ; and so anxious were the people of Antioch to place 
 themselves in a complete state of security, that along the ridges of 
 these heights, though in most parts absolutely inaccessible, they have 
 continued their fortifications, and closed the ravine (about twenty-five 
 feet wide) with a solid wall, the greater part of which is still in ex- 
 istence, and was upwards of seventy feet in height. On the north 
 side of the mountain are many excavations and niches in the rock : 
 some for catacombs ; others have been formed after the Christian aera, 
 and by the addition of masonry have served as places of devotion : 
 these are on the east side of the deep ravine. Without the gate Bab 
 Hadeed, on the west side, is a bridge of five arches across a valley. 
 The piers are of the natural rock, with arches of masonry turned over 
 them : in many parts, which are not sufficiently inaccessible from their 
 steepness, are the remains of a ditch, on the west side fifty feet in 
 width, and fifteen in depth. On the highest part of the rocks within 
 the fortifications, and rather nearer the west than the east side, is a 
 most magnificent and extensive view. To the east is the great plain 
 of Antioch with its lake, bounded by distant mountains ; the Orontes, 
 winding through the plain in front of the city ; the high mountains 
 of Beilan ; the sea in the south-west ; Mount Casius ; the irregular 
 valley covered with vineyards behind the heights of the city : these 
 are the chief objects which strike the beholder from the highest point 
 of the antient capital of Syria. Mount Casius is of a conical form. 
 The Orontes, after passing Antioch, takes its course between some 
 low mountains north of Mount Casius ; and discharges itself into the 
 sea, about six leagues from Antioch. Antakie occupies about one- 
 fifth part of the antient city, and is situated towards the western ex- 
 tremity of the walls : the houses have sloping roofs, are covered with 
 tiles, and built in a very slight manner. There are fifteen minarets at 
 Antakie, and though the place is not extensive, it is considered a 
 populous town, containing perhaps four thousand inhabitants : it is
 
 BEILAN. 
 
 349 
 
 governed by a JNIoutsellim, tributary to the Pasha of Aleppo. Much 
 cotton is manufactured here, which is grown in the neiohbourincr vil- 
 lages ; grapes are also dried and preserved, and much wine is made 
 by the Christians ; there are also many tan-yards on the banks of the 
 river. The bridge is at the west end of the town, and consists of four 
 arches. Tlie tiles for the roofs of the houses are made at Antakie. 
 This forenoon a messenger arrived from jNIr. Barker at Aleppo, who 
 mentions in his letter, that in consequence of several recent attacks 
 of the plague, his family had determined to close their gates, and cut 
 off, for the present, all intercourse with the inhabitants. 
 
 June 8, — At five A.M. we continued our route, accompanied by 
 five horsemen of the Moutsellim of Antioch. About half an hour 
 from the place of our encampment, about twenty more joined 
 us on the road, saying, that they were the guard of the INIoutsellim, 
 and that they expected a present. We offered them four piastres 
 (six shillings). As they were not contented with this, we took leave 
 of each other without any further ceremony. Our route was across 
 a plain, towards the N.N.E. for five hours, until we arrived at a 
 fine oak-tree, near the entrance of the mountains of Beilan. At 
 half-past ten we arrived at Khan Caramout, where there is a narrow 
 pass, and a small village of mountaineers, who claim a tribute from 
 every traveller or caravan they meet. They mount about a hundred 
 horsemen ; and when they are not satisfied with the liberality of 
 passengers, they proceed to violence, and make no scruple to plunder 
 them. As soon as we arrived, a few of these ferocious robbers 
 appeared, and attempted to stop our caravan, which preceded with 
 the baggage: however, the leader of our escort explained to them that 
 our caravan might pass, and we would pay the customary tribute. 
 We sent for the chief of these mountaineers, and drank coffee with 
 him, and a large circle of his people, under the shade of a plane- 
 tree. After some little conversation, we gave him seven piastres, 
 and took our leave, although the chief and his party did not appear 
 well contented with the present ; however, as we had drunk coffee 
 with him, he did not openly object. From hence we were accom-
 
 350 SYRIA. 
 
 panied to Beilan by two of the Caramout horsemen. At Caramout 
 the Turkish language only was spoken. One man of the whole 
 party could converse a little in Arabic. We now continued our route 
 to the northward, over very lofty and picturesque mountains, covered 
 with the arbutus, fir-trees, woodbines, myrtle, and innumerable 
 fragrant shrubs, regaling us as well with their charmmg odour as 
 their beautiful appearance. Soon after Caramout we passed on our 
 left a castle, situated on the top of a precipice, in a most romantic 
 situation, called Ragras ; close to it is a village. Half an hour from 
 Caramout we joined a paved road, which leads to Beilan ; and in 
 winter must be very useful, as, on account of the rains, and the 
 nature of the soil, the ordinary road must be impassable. After 
 crossing these rugged yet noble heights, we arrived at Beilan, in 
 three hours, from Khan Caramout. On passing through the plain 
 between Antioch and the heights of Beilan, the lake of Antioch was 
 on our right, leaving a space of two miles between it and the moun- 
 tains. We passed several little streams, which, if the country was 
 properly cultivated, would assist to fertilise the soil and render it 
 extremely productive. The earth appears black, and of an excellent 
 quality : some parts were cultivated, and the people were employed 
 in taking in the harvest. About three hours from Antioch we passed 
 a small camp or village, of fifty tents, belonging to the Curds, who 
 plough and sow the ground in the neighbourhood. One hour from 
 Antioch there is much marsh land ; and there is a small river called 
 Kara-sou, (or " Black water," in the Turkish language,) which 
 discharges itself into the lake. This appellation is derived from the 
 black stones at the bottom, which give a similar appearance to the 
 water. Khan Caramout is the Khan of " Black Myrtle," so called 
 from the quantity of that kind of shrub in the neighbourhood. Beilan 
 is situated on either side of a deep, narrow, and elevated valley : a 
 stream from the mountains above, rushes through the middle of the 
 town. There are three or four aqueducts across the valley, which are 
 still in use, and seem to be of antient construction. The houses are 
 built of stone, with flat terraced roofs ; and placed on the steep slope
 
 SCANDEROO\. 
 
 351 
 
 of the mountains, intermixed with a variety of trees : they form a most 
 agreeable prospect. From Beilan to Scanderoon the descent from 
 the mountains to the sea, in a northerly direction, is very strik- 
 ing : the heights are lofty, picturesque, well covered with wood, 
 and a great part of them planted with vines, disposed in the neatest 
 order, and culti^•ated with the most careful attention : for the cara- 
 vans, the distance between Beilan and Scanderoon is three hours. 
 We halted more than two hours at Beilan, and at half-past six arrived 
 at Scanderoon. This wretched town consists of a few houses, and is 
 absolutely built in the marshes ; and so impracticable is the ground, 
 that there is only one road by which it can be approached. The 
 marshes extend on all sides, more however to the west than to the 
 eastward : the reeds that grow in this swamp afford nourishment to 
 the buffaloes ; and in some parts, where the land will admit, it is cul- 
 tivated : and here we saw some fields of very indifferent barley, the 
 first time we had seen this grain since our arrival in Syria. It seems 
 that at Scanderoon the sea continually retires, and the marshes in- 
 crease in proportion. About a century ago the line of shore was a 
 mile more inland than at present, as may be seen from the fact of a 
 ruined square building of stone, where there are iron rings, to which 
 boats and small vessels were formerly attached : indeed one of the 
 merchants mentioned, that in the space of ten years the beach had so 
 advanced into the sea, that in a spot where there was formerly water, 
 there is now a magazine for merchandise. The town is chiefly in- 
 habited by a few Greeks, and some Turks, who find an interest in re- 
 maining there on account of the arrival of shipping at the anchorage. 
 Here is a neat Greek church, and amongst the tombs we remarked 
 seven of Englishmen, with Latin inscriptions, who had fallen victims 
 to the unhealthiness of the situation. Few persons escape the malig- 
 nant fever, which constantly rages there in the summer, occasioned 
 by the excessive heat of the sun, seldom relieved by sea-breezes, and 
 the noxious vapours from the surrounding swamps. There are three 
 European agents now resident at Scanderoon, two French and one 
 Italian : their ghastly pale appearance sufficiently marks the black in- 
 fluence of the climate.
 
 352 ■ • SYRIA. 
 
 The ignorance and imbecility of the Turkish government cannot be 
 more strongly marked than in the position of Scanderoon. This is 
 one of the finest bays in the world : the marshes might be drained 
 and cultivated ; and were the town removed to the heights, about 
 half a mile from the beach, the inhabitants would breathe a purer 
 air, and merchants might be induced to reside there. In many in- 
 stances, however, under the impotence of the Ottoman government, 
 where the smallest exertion would establish good order and prosperity, 
 all is misery and confusion : only three hours' distant from Scanderoon 
 is the town of Paias, groaning under the tyranny of Kutchuk Ali, 
 whom the Porte is too weak to subdue : ships dare not anchor near 
 this town, fearful of being seized by the rebel ; he also plunders the 
 caravans that pass through his territory ; and thus commerce is 
 r obstructed on every side. Scanderoon may be considered the 
 port of Aleppo ; and though the road between them is so much 
 frequented, we experienced more difficulty and impertinent con- 
 duct from these uncivilised inhabitants, than in any of our former 
 journeys in Syria. In the village of Salkeen, and in the mountains 
 above, pistols were fired across our road, and some armed ruffians 
 extorted our money, claiming the right as a Caphar, a tribute from 
 the Franks. At Antioch, Caramout, and Beilan, we met with the 
 same sort of treatment, although we had strong firmans, and letters 
 from the Pasha of Aleppo. From Beilan to Scanderoon we were ac- 
 companied by two horsemen of the Pasha ; and although we had 
 continually an escort, the ruffians on the road made no scruple 
 of showing their impertinence. Scanderoon is tributary to Mus- 
 tapha. Pasha of Beilan, who maintains a small band of troops to 
 exact tribute from caravans and travellers. After supping with the 
 Imperial agent, we went on board the brig Mentor, lying about a mile 
 distant from the town. We were happy to find ourselves independent, 
 and in our own ship, relieved from the impositions and villainy of 
 Syria : we had been exposed to dangers arising from the plague, 
 earthquakes, plunderers, and suspecting Agas ; and it may be readily 
 concluded that we rejoiced not a little at our emancipation.
 
 353 
 
 A 
 
 LETTER TO THE EDITOR 
 
 ON 
 
 A REMARKABLE EGYPTIAN BASS-RELIEF, 
 
 IKSCRIBED WITH 
 
 GREEK CHARACTERS, 
 
 TOGETHER WITH A POSTSCRIPT, CONTAINING 
 
 SOME OBSERVATIONS UPON OTHER EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 BY EDWARD DANIEL CLARKE, LL.D. 
 
 My dear Walpole, 
 IHE custom among the Greelis of inscribing upon their y^c(.<pcc\ the 
 names of the persons represented, (which characterised the works of 
 Grecian artists, from the earliest ages until long after the period of 
 the Roman power,) was also common among the Egyptians. In the 
 representation transmitted to you by Mr. Wilkins, of an antient 
 Athenian Tripod Chalice in my possession, you have a remarkable 
 instance of this practice ; the names of all the principal Heathen 
 Deities being there inscribed in letters which were afterwards 
 gilded ; and the gilding remained as fresh when the vase came 
 into my possession, as if it had been recently applied. With 
 respect to Egyptian antiquities, there are lew documents which 
 afford more illustration than the Apocalypse; because the unin- 
 terrupted train of symbols there enumerated, are, as to their pro- 
 totypes, so evidently Egyptian. Indeed the language of the book 
 itself, and the peculiarity of its phrases and idioms, remarkably 
 distinguish it from the other Greeh writings of the New Testa- 
 ment ; and in every instance, if we trace the discrepancy to its origin, 
 we must have recourse to Egypt. In that book we find allusions to 
 " zvi'itten names" upon the foreheads, or above the heads, or upon the 
 thighs of figures ; a practice common to the two countries both of 
 Greece and Egypt. The image of the Beast rising out of the sea, is, 
 VOL. II. z z
 
 354 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 for example, described * as having " upon his heads the names of 
 BLASPHEMY." Ill the visioii of the personified appearance of idolatry f, 
 the woman is represented as having " upon her forehead a name 
 WRITTEN." The rider of the -iJi-hiie horse X had " a name written 
 WHICH NO man knew ;" also § upon his vesture, and upon his thigh, 
 " a name written :" all of which passages are so many allusions to 
 the antient custom of inscribing the consecrated idols with the names 
 of the deities. The Jewish High Priest, consistently with this practice, 
 wore the ineffable name of Jehovah upon his forehead. Among the 
 antiquities discovered in the sepulchres, near the Pyramids of Egypt, 
 are sometimes found a sort of tablets made of a whitish stone ||, con- 
 taining, within a cavity, the carved image, in bass-relief, of some idol ; 
 the name being inscribed in Hieroglyphics : but I possess one of so 
 curious a nature, that its description here will show how intimately 
 the customs of the most antient heathen nations corresponded with 
 the allusions made to those customs in the Apocalypse. These tablets 
 appear to me to have been used as portable tabernacles after the 
 manner of other painted tablets in Russia, which the inhabitants of 
 that country still worship under the name of Obraze or Bog. That 
 to which I allude, is of white or grey limestone, five inches and a half 
 lono-, by two inches and a half wide. It came from Egypt, with 
 others of the same nature, excepting that the characters upon them 
 were Hieroglyphics; whereas the characters upon this tablet are 
 Greek letters ; and they protrude in relief upon the surface of the 
 stone. II The idol represented is that of the Egyptian Mercury, 
 
 * 'Etti Totj xs^aXaj atirou ovo'/jiaTa /3Xa<7^))fiiaf. Apocalyps. cap. Xtii. 1. 
 
 + Ibid. C. xvii. 5. 'EttI to jm-etcuttov ainri; ovajxa yeypaj/.iJ.evov. 
 
 i -Ibid. C xix. 1'2. "E^^cuv ova^ct ysypa/Aftsvov o ouSeif olSev. 
 
 § Ibid. C. xix. 16. "E;j^si Itti to Ifuunov xai etti tIv iJ.v)pov aUTOu ovoixa ysypctij.iJ.evov. 
 
 II The tablet, or amulet, mentioned in the Apocalypse for the conquering Christian, (on 
 which a name was to be written, known to no man but to him who was to receive it,) is 
 described as being oi white stone: the words are these: (xe^. /3'. 17.) Kai iuia-iu axnuii ij/^fow 
 Xeuxmv, xai Itti tiJv 4'')? ov ovojxa. xuivov ysypaiJ.iJ.svov, o ouSeij oISev ei jj-ij 6 \ajj.^ctvcuv. 
 
 ^ I am indebted for it to the kindness of Mr, Henslow, B. A. of St. John's College, 
 Cambridge.
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 355 
 
 naked, bearing in his right hand a purse. His left hand is extended 
 upon his breast. He is placed within an arched niche. Upon his 
 head appears a diadetn with five rays, fastened by ajillet above his 
 forehead. Upon the Jillet occur the following -characters in relief: 
 
 FT A r r ^ 
 
 These characters, elevated above the surface of the stone, are very 
 distinctly and plainly carved. There is no difficulty whatever in 
 reading them ; each letter being one-fourth of an inch in height : 
 the only perplexity is in making out their meaning, and this 
 I think may be surmounted with a little attention. For, from 
 what has been already stated, it will, perhaps, appear evident, that 
 they form together the name of the Deity above whose forehead 
 they are inscribed. The great idol of the heathen world, whose 
 worship (alluded to in the Apocalypse, as the doctrine of Balaam *) 
 proved such an abomination among the Israelites, was the god Baal, 
 or Bel ; and it is very remarkable that Kircher, in his Pantheon 
 Hehrccorum, (Syntagma iv.) proves this deity to be the same as Gad, 
 and to have been called Baalgad, or Belgad f ; whose idolatrous 
 worship the Jews derived originally from Egypt. X Now, if the 
 latter name be written Belgiid, we have it here upon this tablet; for 
 substituting, as was often the case, n for B, and omitting the vowel in 
 the first syllable, the word Belgud would be written exactly as it 
 appears upon the stone ; namely, n a r T l> ; so that there is every 
 
 • T^v hlcfxriv ^a.Xa.a.11., x. r. K. C. ii. 14. 
 
 f " Gad et Baalgad idem esse, atque olim inter profana Numina, non Gentium solum, 
 sed et Judaeorum quoque, si judicio vetustissimorum GrEecorum, Hebraeorum, et Ciial- 
 daeorum stemus, recensita fuisse, imo et Latinorum." — Kircheri Oedip. jEgypt. torn. i. 
 p. 284. Romae. 1G52. 
 
 \ " Verum cum Numen hoc antiquissimum [Baalgad) et primis post diluvium tem- 
 poribus Hebraeis usitatum comperiam, certe id aliunde promanasse non arbitror, nisi ex 
 ^'Egypto, quam idolorum Hebrseorum Seminarium non incongrue dixero." — Ibid. p. 285. 
 
 zz 2
 
 356 EGYPT. 
 
 reason to believe we are thus presented with a figure of the remark- 
 able idol mentioned by Kirchcr, which by the symbol placed in its 
 rigiit hand is at once identified with the Hermes of Greece and of 
 Egypt. Among the earliest characteristics of 2Jainfing and sculpture 
 in ygyjit, Greece, Italy, and in other countries, it is curious to 
 observe the long continuance of this practice of inscribing above the 
 'y^x(^oc), whether they were bass-reliefs *, or more literally pictures, the 
 explanatory names of the figures delineated. Upon the idol pictures 
 of the Greek church in Russia, exhibiting the manner of painting as 
 practised at the introduction of Christianity into that country, we read 
 in Creek characters the names of the divinities thereon pourtrayed ; 
 and in old illuminated manuscripts and missals of the thirteenth, four- 
 teenth, and fftcenth centuries, the same custom may be observed. 
 
 P. S. — I will not conclude these observations upon a singular 
 Egyptian relique, without also adding a few remarks respecting some 
 other Egyptian antiquities as they happen to have been recently 
 suggested to me. And first, as a caution to antiquaries, I will 
 mention a cii'cumstance worthy of their notice. It relates to an 
 inscription found at the back of a signet ring, of great antiquity, 
 which was purchased in the bazar at Grand Cairo. This signet 
 is an intaglio; it represents the figure of Anubis, bearing in his 
 right hand a serp)ent, and in his left hand the branch of a paltn-tree ; 
 that is to say, it exhibits the figure, or image, by which the antients 
 typified the subterraneous sun, namely, Pluto in Hades ; bearing the 
 signs of reproduction, or the revival of nature. So far the workman- 
 ship is antient ; but upon the back of this sig7iet appears a Greek 
 inscription, legible from right to left, and having also an appearance 
 of antiquity. The legend appears in this manner : 
 
 . * " Tpaifaj. Sculpo, insculpo, fodio, viilnero. II. p. 599. aip^/x^ ypaif'sv oJ axf'5 oa-reov: 
 ubi vldes notionem propriam fodiendi. Piiid. Ol3'mp. iii. 54. eypavj/ev Upiv, Scripsit earn 
 cervatn sacram Diante, inscripsit, dedicavit." Danini. Lex. 2101.
 
 EGYPT. 357 
 
 33033 
 
 A^V13=]A/ 
 
 At what period this was inscribed, whether daring Buonapartes late 
 invasion of Egypt, or upon any former invasion of the country by 
 the French, is uncertain ; but the whole has been unravelled by the 
 ingenuity of our learned friend, the Rev. John Palmer, late professor 
 of Arabic in the University of Cambridge, and it cannot fail to amuse 
 you ; since it is evident from his observations, that the legend exhi- 
 bits nothing more than a French inscription, written in barbarous 
 modern GaUo-Greek, by some ignorant Greek lapidary ; it runs thus : 
 
 Ce. Sceau. Gen. B. Ar. Frangaise. 
 
 or, as it is inscribed : 
 
 ce. Cf GA- TEN. B. AP. 
 <I)APANrHC. 
 
 (pccfxvyT] in modern Greek signifies France *, which here occurs in the 
 genitive y-^pai/^-^? : and the whole, being interpreted into English, 
 means nothing more than this : 
 
 This Seal [Ce Sceau) belongs to the General second in com- 
 mand OF the French army. 
 
 In the description which 1 have given of the Egyptian S2)hinx f , I 
 mentioned the remarkable fact of its surface being covered with red 
 paint ; not being aware, at the time, that Zoega had discovered a 
 passage in Pliny, which if restored according to the readin» found 
 in some manuscripts of that author, contains an allusion to this red 
 colour upon the surface of the statue. Pliny, speaking of the Sphinx, 
 
 • Hence the etymology of the word Frank (fapctvy), so commonly applied to a 
 Christian in the Levant. 
 
 t See Travels. 8vo. edit. Vol. v. p. 200. London. 18J7.
 
 358 EGYPT. 
 
 says*, " est autem saxo naturali elaborata et lubrica." Upon this 
 passage Zoega observes -f, " pro lubrica, alii legunt rubrica .-" and he 
 adds, " mnt et peregi-inatores qui rubri jngmenti reliquias in sphinge 
 mperesse aiunt.'' In fact, I have now in my possession a portion of 
 the painted surface of the stone, which I detached from the neck 
 of the statue when I was in Egypt. The stone itself is limestone -, 
 the same of which the Pyramids were principally constructed. Ex- 
 ternally it bears so near a resemblance to the magnesian limestone of 
 Roch Abbei/, and of King's College Chapel, in Cajnbridge, that these 
 substances might be easily confounded together ; but the limestone of 
 the Sphinx is characterized by a much livelier effervescence in acids. 
 After it has been for some time exposed to the action of diluted 
 muriatic acid, a considerable portion of silica is deposited in the form 
 of sand. The supernatant fluid being decanted and filtered, and de- 
 prived of its excess of acid, and distilled water added, neither tincture 
 of galls nor prmsiate of potass occasioned any precipitate. With 
 respect to the red paint conspicuous upon the surface of the statue, 
 and of which a considerable quantity adheres to the fragment I 
 brouo-ht from Egypt, it appears to have been applied after the 
 manner in which the stuccoed walls of the chambers in Pompeii 
 were painted ; a practice still in vogue among the inhabitants of 
 Italy; especially at Naples; where not only the walls but the 
 floors of the houses often exhibit this appearance. It was a 
 common ornament among all the Greeks. But as Pliny, in this 
 instance, calls the colour rubrica instead of minium; and as the 
 Egyptians were famous for their rubrica, which has been confounded 
 with vemiilion, and with the minium of Pliny, (a pigment prepared 
 from mercury,) a favourable opportunity was here offered of ascer- 
 taining, by chemical experiments, the real nature of the metallic 
 oxide used in painting the Sphinx. For this purpose I separated a 
 small flake of the pigment, and having divested it as much as possible 
 
 • Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. xxxvi. cap. 12. torn. iii. p. 484. L. Bat. 1635. 
 f De Origine et Usu Obeliscorum, p. 384. note 8*. Rome. 1797.
 
 EGYPT. 359 
 
 of the adhering limestone, I exposed it for some seconds upon charcoal, 
 to the action of the blowpipe : the red substance, after sustaining a very 
 intense heat, proved altogether incapable either of being volatilised 
 or fused. When removed from the charcoal its colour was black. It 
 was now attracted and taken up by the magnet. It also communi- 
 cated a dingy yellowish-green colour to borax ; and in some places 
 the borax became quite black. Hence it was evidently iron ; and the 
 substance which Plini/ calls rubrica is, therefore, in this instance, red 
 ochre. The practice of painting sacred images with rubrica and with 
 minium, prevailed not only in Egypt but in Greece and in Italy. The 
 best sculptured marbles of Greece sometimes retain traces of the red 
 pigment by which they were covered. * Among the Romans it was 
 usual on festival days to paint Jupiter s image in the Capitol with 
 minium. Pausanias says that 5acc7»/s was painted Kji/ca.Gap/.f Camillus 
 entering Rome in triumph, and affecting a god-like aspect, had his 
 body painted with minium. All the ointments used at triumphal feasts 
 were tinged with this colour ; as were the robes " worn by kings and 
 heroes old," improperly considered as the purple of the \ moderns. 
 Pliny is at a loss to explain the origin of this custom ; but he says 
 
 * The three fluted columns in the Forum at Rome, at the foot of the CapitoUne Hill, 
 still retain, in tlie fluting, near the tops of the shafts, a considerable coating of a red 
 colouring matter, which has not yet been chemically examined. 
 
 + Ta xaTcu Se oux sori luwt^TO. tov a.yci\jj.aTOS, utto Sa^vrjj ts tpvWcov xu) xi<r(raiv' oToaov 6e 
 auToD xaSopoiv ea-rm, svctKrjKnrrat xtvvd^xpi sxAaftTrsiv. Pausanise Arcadica, c. xxxix. p. 681. 
 Lips. 1 6 16. 
 
 J------- xafls|sro 
 
 'En-1 ToTj /SoiftoTa-iv mxpo; ev (feivix/Si. Aristoph. Lysistrata, v. 1141. L. Bat. 176"0. 
 See also ^schyl. Eumenides, v. 1025. 
 
 The ^oivif of the aiitients {murice tincta) was, in fact, our scarlet ; as appears by the re- 
 presentations upon the painted vases of Greece ; and also by the robes still worn by 
 dignitaries upon solemn occasions, consistently with those antient customs which have been 
 transmitted to modern times. Milton was evidently aware that the ifoivi^ did not corre- 
 spond with that which is now called purple. 
 
 — « Over his lucid arms 
 
 A military vest of ptirple flow'd. 
 Livelier than Meliboean or the grain 
 Of Sarra."
 
 360 EGYPT. 
 
 that among the yEthiojnans their gods had this colour, and that their 
 nobles had the same. Perhaps we may discover the origin of it among 
 those savage tribes who besmear their bodies and their idols with the 
 blood of their vanquished enemies in token of triumph ; as also when 
 hiunan sacrifices are offered to their gods. The custom itself, what- 
 ever be its origin, is sufficient to explain to us the reason why the 
 sort of marble called Rosso Antico was held in such high request 
 among the antients, for the images of their gods and deified Emperors ; 
 and how exceedingly costly, owing to its rarity, this kind of marble 
 must have been. 
 
 Before I conclude this postscript, already extended to a very un- 
 usual length, I wish to call your attention, for a moment, to another 
 subject connected with the antiquities of Egypt. Mineralogists 
 having heard, with astonishment, of a monolithal soros discovered by 
 Belzoni, in Upper Egypt, which is said to be as transparent as glass, 
 immediately imagined that the substance thus described must neces- 
 sarily be alabaster. I was one of those, who, at first, entertained this 
 notion. But an integral mass of alabaster of the magnitude he men- 
 tions, has, I believe, never yet been seen. The same might have 
 been said of rock crystal ; but to my utter amazement, I have re- 
 ceived from Lieutenant Shillibeer *, of the Royal Navy, a fragment of 
 a soros of immense size, which was of one entire mass of rocA; crystal ! 
 It was discovered in Peru ; being the tomb of the Incas at Yara- 
 bamba. This piece oi crystal is now in my possession. It was broken 
 from the tomb by the Baron de Nordenjletch ; and it is as diaphanous 
 as the most limpid glass ; a part of the antient sculpture being visible 
 upon the fragment. It is therefore possible tiiat the soros discovered 
 by Belzoni is also of rock crystal ; adding one more stupendous example 
 to the number of those marvels which almost induce us to consider 
 some of the works of the antients as results of more than human 
 skill and labour. Without ascribing them to the Cyclops, or to a race 
 
 * Aiilhor of the Narrative of the Briton's Voyage to Pitcairn's Island ,- now of Jesus 
 College, Cambridge.
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 361 
 
 of giants, it is nevertheless impossible to behold them without a mixed 
 sensation of admiration and awe. " Slm ex iis qui mirer anti- 
 
 QUOS : NGN TAMEN, UT QUIDAM, TEMPORUM NOSTRORUM INGENIA 
 DESPICIO. NeQUE ENIM QUASI LASSA ET EFFOETA NATURA, UT NIUIL 
 JAM LAUDABILE PARIAT." * 
 
 I remain, Dear Walpole, 
 
 Cambridge, &C. &C. 
 
 June 5. 1819. Edward Daniel Clarke. 
 
 • Plin, Epist. lib. vi, 21. p.44'1. Amst. 1731. 
 
 VOL. 11. 
 
 (E(BY1PT J A?'] J DDL 
 Sa
 
 362 
 
 JOURNEY FROM CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI, 
 AND RETURN TO CAIRO. 
 
 [COMMUNICATED BY J. FAZAKERLEY, ESQ. M. P.] 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Departure from Cairo. — Object of the journey of the Pasha of Egypt to Suez. — Petrified 
 Wood. — Illusion occasioned by the Mirage. — Desolate appearance of Suez. — Prqmration 
 of the Jlotilla against the Wahabee. — Departure for Mount Sinai. — Appearance of the 
 Desert. — Plants. — Variableness of the Climate. — Scarcity of rain in the Desert. — 
 Narratives and Stories of' the Bedouins. — Mode of preparing their Food. — Bedouin 
 Women. — Tents of the Arabs. — Approach to the Convent of Sinai. — The Travdler 
 Seetzen. — Excursion to the Top of Mount Sinai. — Legends of the Monies, and of the 
 Mahometans. 
 
 After passing some time in Cairo, we were invited by ]\Iehmed Ali, 
 Pasha of Egypt, to accompany him to Suez. He went tliere to 
 superintend the construction of a flotilla destined to act against the 
 Wahabee, and as we felt a great curiosity to see something of the 
 Desert, this was an opportunity too good to be neglected. 
 
 We left Cairo on the thirty-first of January, 1811 ; our party con- 
 sisting of Mr. Gaily Knight and myself; two Levantine servants, 
 whom we had brought with us from Greece ; and for our interpreter 
 with the Arabs, a young merchant of Cairo, who spoke tolerable 
 Italian. Besides these, we took one or two Fellah (or common Arabs 
 of Egypt) to look after our baggage, and help to pitch our tent. We 
 found only two horses and one mule provided for us ; but the rest of 
 the party, with the baggage, went on camels, of which there was 
 no want. At length, after the usual loss of time in quarrelling, 
 loading, unloading, and other preparations, we left the town at 
 nine in the morning, and proceeded, with very little interruption 
 until half-past five in the evening, when we pitched our tents,
 
 JOURNEY TO iMOUNT SINAI. 363 
 
 for the first time, in the Desert. Our caravan is numerous ; and 
 besides a good deal of merchandise, and many of the timbers, and 
 other things belonging to the vessels at Suez, we have with us a large 
 and brilliant party of the modern courtiers and grandees of Egypt- 
 The Pasha himself went yesterday with a small escort on dromedaries, 
 meaning to reach Suez, without halting for a night. The distance is 
 from seventy to eighty miles: they suppose that he would accomplish 
 it in about fifteen hours. 
 
 Very soon after we left Cairo all traces of vegetation disappeared : 
 this part of the Desert is not mountainous nor sandy, but consists of a 
 bed of pebbles, many of that sort which we call Egyptian pebbles ; 
 with numberless pieces of petrified wood*, some of which are of a 
 great size, looking like whole trunks of trees. Carriages might pass 
 wherever we have been. 
 
 Feb. 1. — We proceeded at two in the morning, and only rested a 
 little once or twice for coffee ; either allowing the heavy caravan to 
 pass us, or riding forwards, and waiting until it came up ; and at five 
 in the evening we were too happy to reach a few stunted Acacias, 
 where we had been told that we were to pass the night. The ap- 
 pearance of the Desert is much the same as yesterday. There are 
 some high mountains to the south and south-east. 
 
 Feb. 2. — Set off at a quarter before seven. We passed the ruins 
 of an old Turkish fort (Ajerout) and a well of bad water (Bir-el-Suez), 
 and reached Suez at half-past ten. The deception of sight, which 
 the French call Mirage, was very frequent this morning: large pieces 
 of water seemed to be spread before us ; and we were at times within 
 less than a hundred yards of these imaginary lakes before the appear- 
 ance vanished. 
 
 Nothing can look more desolate and deplorable than Suez ; a few 
 houses built of mud and wood, and bounded by the desert and the 
 
 • Pococke, in his journey from Cairo to Suez, observed " many stones that looked like 
 petrified wood." See also the remarks on the " mineralised wood" found in the desert, 
 in Clarke's Travels, vol. V. 8vo. 161. — E. 
 
 *3 a2
 
 364 
 
 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 sea ; not a blade of grass, or the leaf of a tree in sight. Crowds of 
 vultures were feeding on the carcasses of mules,, horses, and camels, 
 as we approached the town. 
 
 Feb. 3. — The preparations for the expedition against the Wahabee 
 have given an appearance of life and activity even to Suez. The 
 flotilla consists of three or four vessels from forty to a hundred tons : 
 some Greeks have been brought to manage them ; for not only is the 
 navioation of the Red Sea dangerous, but its sailors notoriously in- 
 expert. * These matters are, we find, likely to detain all the world 
 here for some time ; and as the place has no charms for us, and the 
 return to Cairo, without an escort or caravan, is thought to be unsafe, 
 we have been employed, since we came, in negotiating the means of 
 making an expedition to Mount Sinai. The Pasha has been very 
 good-natured about it ; and this morning he sent for us, and com- 
 mitted us to the care of some chiefs of the tribes who occupy that 
 part of Arabia; telling them that we are his friends, and his guests; 
 and that their heads should answer to him for our safety. The 
 Bedouins put their hands to their foreheads in sign of submission, 
 and we have now nothing to do but to prepare for our journey. 
 
 Feb. 4. — We laid in our stock of rice, onions, biscuit, and coffee ; 
 and what meat we could find. The Bedouins had sent round a 
 sufficient number of camels and dromedaries to wait for us on the 
 other side of the narrow arm of the sea which runs up to Suez. 
 We put on Turkish dresses ; and at five in the evening crossed Over, 
 and landed in x\rabia. While we were stepping into the boat, an 
 Arab, whom we had dispatched last night with letters and messages 
 to Cairo, came running naked and breathless to the shore : after the 
 
 • " I observed (probably from inadvertence) no remains of the canals formerly existing 
 between the Nile and the Red Sea; though some, it is said, may be seen near Ajerout, 
 among other places. The precise spot where the Israelites crossed into Arabia is still a 
 matter of dispute among the learned ; and tradition is here so vague as hardly to assist Us. 
 The natives point out indiil'erently cither ihc valley of Bcdea, or the passage from Suez, 
 or even the places opposite Aijoun ^lousa. or Corondel ntar the Hamnian Faraoun." — 
 Note added after the journal was written.
 
 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 365 
 
 first confusion of questions and exclamations was a little over, we 
 found that he had been met on the road by a large party (he said 
 ninety or a hundred) who had stripped him to the skin, and were 
 with difficulty prevailed upon to allow him to escape. Our Arabs 
 were much disconcerted by this event : they entered immediately 
 into deep consultation on the prudence of our proceeding further. 
 The Bedouins who had plundered our messenger were well known 
 to belong to a hostile tribe ; and it was suspected that they might 
 have information of our march, and be tempted to pursue us. We 
 understood what was going on by means of our dragoman Antonio; 
 but as we could not be judges of the degree of danger or of the 
 manner of avoiding it, we left the decision to our guides, whose 
 fidelity we had no reason to question. At last it was determined to 
 advance ; and at eight in the evening we set off; a party of twelve 
 persons, including ourselves, and ten camels. We avoided, as we 
 were told, the usual track, and did not go to some wells (Aijoun 
 Mousa) by which we were to have passed; and where 4he robbers 
 were supposed to have stationed themselves. We were hurried on, 
 and forbidden to speak, or light our pipes : and scouts were detached in 
 every direction to listen and reconnoitre. In the silence and solitude 
 of the desert, suspicious sounds and appearances are, I suppose, easily 
 detected ; and as the vigilance of the Arabs is in constant exercise, 
 their senses are probably acute. We were not relieved from this 
 state of anxiety until three in the morning, when our Arabs with a 
 shout of joy proclaimed our safety, and told us that we were now far 
 within their own territory, where their enemies would not dare to 
 pursue them. A ride of some hours upon a dromedary for the first 
 time, independently of all other reasons, made this news very 
 welcome. We pitched our tent, and lighted a fire, and with our 
 pipes and coffee fancied ourselves in a state of luxury. 
 
 Feb. 5. — The sea was close to our tent. We set out at eight ; 
 came to a well of tolerable water at one, where we rested about an 
 hour ; and at five halted for the night. We have kept all day near 
 the sea. The desert here is rather more sandy than between Cairo 
 
 *3 A 3
 
 366 
 
 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 and Suez : we have met with scarcely a trace of vegetation ; now and 
 then only a few parched thistles ; and a low shrub resembling what is 
 called, I think, Sea Holly ; about the well, indeed, which we passed 
 this morning were some stunted palm-trees, a number of tamarisks* 
 and a good deal of a plant exactly like the Soda or Barilla which I re- 
 member to have seen in Spain. The camels prefer the thistles. 
 
 Feb. 6. — Continued our journey at half-past six. At half-past ten 
 we halted for an hour ; and saw, across the sea, some high mountains 
 to the south-west, which the Arabs told us were near Cosseir. They 
 can hardly, I should think, be so distant. At four we came to water, 
 and a few palm-trees ; the water though drinkable would not keep, so 
 that we did not fill our sacks. At seven, there was a division in the 
 road, (if the tracks in the Desert deserve such a name,) one path lead- 
 ing, as we are told, to Tor ; the other, which we follow, bends to the 
 eastward, in the direction of Sinai. At ten we encamped for the 
 night. In the course of this day's journey we have passed great 
 quantities of a substance which in its appearance resembles gypsum ; 
 and over a o-ood deal of wround lookiufi; more like the Fiumaras in 
 Sicily than any thing I have ever seen. Indeed the whole of the 
 desert through which we have yet travelled is like the dry bed of a 
 body of water : covered every where almost with round pebbles, 
 apparently worn by attrition ; in places looking as if it had been 
 swept, and furrowed by torrents. 
 
 Feb. 7. — Set off at a quarter before eight, and at ten, waited for 
 half an hour under the shade of a rock. The climate is quite in 
 extremes : in the morning before sunrise the cold is so great that 
 large woollen cloaks will not keep us warm, and when the sun has 
 been up an hour or two, we are impatient to obtain some shelter from 
 the heat. * 
 
 * I have since met with a description of the same sensations in an old traveller. " In 
 the daies that I was in this sea, contained from Tore (Tor) to Suez, I felt by night the 
 greatest colds I can remember to have borne; but when the sunne came the lieate was 
 unsuflerable." Purchas, ii. 1 145. This was in April.
 
 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 367 
 
 The road for some time to-day led us along a narrow valley worn 
 apparently by water, which stretched towards the east among some 
 high mountains of granite ; the first that we have seen of that stone. 
 This continued from half-past ten until a quarter-past two, when we 
 descended into a valley of sand lying between hills of brown-coloured 
 slate. The rocks, even at a great height from the ground, had all 
 the appearance of having been worn by water. * 
 
 We stopped near a well, where the water to us seemed excellent : 
 the spot, too, was not without pretensions to beauty ; there were some 
 wild acacias about, and many tamarisks, and a profusion of the soda 
 plant. One hails with delight any thing green in this part of the 
 world. We filled our water-sacks, but rain came on, which was 
 looked upon as a sort of prodigy; at least, our Bedouins told us 
 that they had seen none for four or five years. The storm soon blew 
 over : but we pitched our tent for the night. The Arabs first thought 
 of their coffee and pipes, and then, as usual, passed the time in telling 
 stories ; or sinoino- them in a sort of recitative. This is their in- 
 variable custom when we stop at night, and frequently on the march; 
 and they insist upon it that the camels derive no less pleasure than 
 themselves from this practice. We sometimes make Antonio explain 
 
 • Upon referrinn- to Niebulir, and one or two other travellers, while I was writing over 
 this journal, I find that they notice these appearances, and ascribe them to the violence of 
 winter rains. I suspect that they have done this a little inconsiderately; and Niebuhr 
 particularly, in the first volume oF his travels?, p. 183., and p. 185., and in the " Description 
 de I'Arabie," p. 3^7'> speaks of torrents of rain quite as a thing of course. That it may 
 rain occasionally in this part of the desert, and more frequently in the mountains about 
 Sinai, is probable; but wlien in all February we only met with one shower, and even that 
 appeared to excite surprise, and when Niebuhr and the Prefetto of the Franciscans saw no 
 rain in September, and the first half of October, and Pietro della Valle only a snow 
 storm on Mount Saint Catherine in December; and as neither these travellers nor Shaw, 
 nor Pococke, nor, I believe, any others who have left a description of their adventures, 
 have ever spoken of having seen great rains here, or have been prevented from proceeding 
 by the force of these torrents, I cannot think that these appearances are to be ascribed 
 to the violence of rains. There is no account of travelling being interrupted by rains. 
 Christopher Furcr makes no mention of rain in the whole of November. 
 
 *3 A 4
 
 368 JOURNEY TO :M0UNT SINAI. 
 
 these stories to us : they seem to relate to the loves of Bedouins ; the 
 persecution of bad, and the protection of good Genii, with niucii of 
 magic ; and ending generally in some happy spot of verdure disco- 
 vered in the Desert. 
 
 Feb. 8. — We began our journey at five ; and stopped to breakfast 
 at nine. The Arabs prepare their mess by first scraping a hole in the 
 ground, in which they make a fire with camel's dung: when this oven 
 is sufficiently heated, they put into it a thin cake of dough, which they 
 suffer to remain for a very short time, and take it out long before we 
 should call it baked ; they then pull it to pieces, and mix it up with 
 honey and liquid butler, which they carry about with them in leather 
 bags. This seems to be their constant breakfast : they squat round, 
 the bowl ; and feed themselves with the fingers of the right hand ; 
 each waiting very politely until it is his turn. They enjoy this much : 
 I have tasted it ; and perhaps one might become reconciled to it. 
 
 We set off again at half-past ten ; and in our way, or perhaps a 
 little out of it, went to an Arab encampment, and drank coffee 
 with its inhabitants. One or two of the women were pretty : they 
 show their faces with less reluctance than in the towns ; indeed the 
 Bedouins are accused of being but lax Mahometans ; and here 
 particularly, being placed on a sort of neutral ground between the 
 old orthodox JNlussulmans, and the new sect of the Wahabee, and 
 obliged probably to maintain an intercourse with both parties, they 
 profess and appear to care but little about the result or merits of the 
 controversy. 
 
 A female slave who had but lately been taken prisoner, came up 
 to us before we left the camp, beseeching us to obtain her freedom, 
 and carry her away with us ; we could only recommend her to the 
 care and compassion of her master. The people call us Sultans ; 
 and the protection of the Basha of Egypt is so powerful that we pass 
 for persons of great consequence. 
 
 Our road led us through narrow valleys, producing a few acacias, 
 between hio;h cliffs, first of slate and afterwards of red and grev 
 granite, frequently marked with perpendicular and horizontal veins
 
 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 369 
 
 of some dark stone. The immense masses of rock which are detached 
 from these cHffs, and he about the valley, have given to a part of the 
 road the name of the " Broken Mountain." A ridge of dark- 
 coloured rock nearly closed the valley at some distance before us ; 
 but through an opening we saw what they told us were the moun- 
 tains of Horeb and Sinai : these were far off, and beyond them we 
 could faintly distinguish the outline of other mountains, which were, 
 however, so distant as to be almost lost in the clouds. 
 
 At five we stopped for the night under some huge cliffs of granite 
 that sheltered us from the wind. 
 
 The tents of the Arabs which we have seen this mornina: are but 
 wretched habitations ; the climate alone can make them supportable : 
 they are of black woollen cloth, the produce of their camels or goats ; 
 and are so imperfectly stretched, or strained to the ground, as to 
 afford little shelter against wind or rain. You can hardly stand 
 upright in them : one side is always left open for an entrance : mats 
 are strewed within ; and the furniture consists of one or two wooden 
 bowls, a coffee-pot, and whatever arms the Arab may possess that 
 are not on his person. 
 
 They seemed glad to see us : one or two children only were 
 frightened, mistaking us probably for Turks, who are no favourites. 
 The coffee which they gave us was excellent: the berries were green, 
 but they soon roasted and pounded them. We were told, I know 
 not how truly, that they had previously been boiled, and that this 
 precaution is taken with all coffee before it leaves Yemen, lest the 
 plant should be cultivated elsewhere. 
 
 To-morrow we hope to reach the convent of Saint Catherine. 
 
 Feb. 9. — Began our journey at five : the high mountains about us 
 were covered with clouds ; we rode on till nine ; and then breakfasted 
 at the entrance of a pass so craggy and difficult, that we were obliged 
 to abandon our beasts, and scramble through it on foot ; the drome- 
 daries followed slowly, and with pain : their soft feet are better 
 suited to sands than to such a road as this. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 b
 
 370 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 At one o'clock the great object of our journey, the convent at the 
 foot of Mount Sinai, was in sight : we discovered it at the end of a 
 long valley through a sort of avenue of rocks and precipices, which 
 rise abruptly on three sides of it : half an hour more brought us under 
 the walls, and in parley with the monks : the door is walled up, and 
 opened only for the Archbishop, who compounds dearly with the 
 Arabs for this honour. A rope with a stick fixed transversely to the 
 end of it was let down from a window about forty feet from the 
 ground, and we were soon dragged up by a windlass, and deposited 
 within the holy precincts. There was a crowd of priests about the 
 window, who saluted us with kxXu? cf.i<rBTe, XccTt^ri: thus giving us the 
 title of Pilgrim, one of more estimation in the East than among us, 
 and to which a visit to this shrine entitles the traveller. Our visit 
 was attributed to motives of devotion : wax tapers were put into our 
 hands : the priests began to chaunt ; and we were led off in pro- 
 cession to the church, which is much ornamented in the manner of 
 Greek churches, and very pretty. At one end is a chapel, called that 
 of the " Burning Bush," and said to have been built by the Empress 
 Helena over the spot where God first appeared to Moses. The 
 zealous priests scarcely allowed us to pause here, but liurried us along 
 to the shrine of their patroness, Saint Catherine, whose death at 
 Alexandria, and miraculous removal, first to a mountain in the 
 neighbourhood, and then to the convent, form the subject of a 
 favourite legend with this sect of Christians. We found here only 
 twenty-five monks : in other times not only was the number within 
 the walls far greater, but the valleys and mountains about were 
 crowded with hermitages and devotees. 
 
 Feb. 10. — We went to mass ; and after again visiting the different 
 shrines, we received some silver rings whicli had been in contact 
 with the holy reliques of Saint Catherine. 
 
 The order of the convent is not to eat meat; as an indulgence they 
 allowed me to shoot some pigeons that were flying about in the 
 Desert ; and in our present situation this was a matter of some 
 interest to us.
 
 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 37 j 
 
 In one of the cells assigned to us we found a paper giving the 
 following account of Dr. Seetzen's journey hither from Palestine. 
 
 " Le 9 d'Avril, 1807, U. J. Seetzen, nomme Mousa, voyageur 
 Allemand, M. D. et assesseur du College de S. M. I'Empereur de 
 toutes les Russies dans la Seigneurie de * — en Allemagne, est venu 
 visiter le couvent de la Sainte Catherine, les monts de Horeb et de 
 Sinai et de la Sainte Catherine, apres avoir parcouru toutes les 
 provinces orientales anciennes de la Palestine ; scavoir ; Auranitis, 
 Trachonitis, Gaulonitis, Paneas, Batanaea, Decapolis, Galaaditis, Am- 
 monitis, Amorrhitis, Moabitis, jusqu'aux frontieres de la Gebalene 
 (Idumaea), et apres avoir fait deux fois I'entour de la Mer JMorte, 
 traverse le desert de 1' Arable Petree, entre la ville d' Hebron et le 
 Mont Sinai par un chemin jusqu'a ce temps la inconnu, apres un 
 sejour de dix jours il continuoit son voyage pour la ville de Suez." 
 
 This is rather pompous ; but Dr. Seetzen is, unquestionably, a 
 traveller of great enterprise : he has been seven or eight vears in 
 these countries, and his experience, and habits, and knowledge of 
 Arabic, qualify him in a remarkable degree for the pursuits in which 
 he is engaged. We heard much of him from Dr. JNIalpurgo, among 
 others, at Cairo, who told us that his ultimate design was to cross 
 Africa, nearly in the latitude of Melinda. He is at this moment said 
 to be on his way to Djedda and Mecca. The Arabs know him well 
 by the name of JMousa. 
 
 There is also in one of the rooms a memorandum of two French 
 travellers, which is worth copying for the amusing vanity of the 
 dates. 
 
 " Le quintidi, 5' Frimaire, I'an 9 de la Republique Fran^aise, 
 1800 de I'ere Chretienne, et 3" de la conquete de I'Egypte, les 
 citoyens Coutelle et Rosieres, membres de la commission des Arts et 
 des Sciences, sont venus visiter les lieux saints, les ports de Tor, 
 Ras Mohammed, la mer de Suez, et I'Accaba, I'extremite de la 
 
 • A word here, and some of the following names, are nearly erased in my journal. 
 
 3b 2
 
 372 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 presqu'isle, toutes les chaines de montagnes, et toutes les tribus 
 Arabes entre les deux Golfes." 
 
 Feb. 11. — We were let down from the convent by the rope, and 
 set out on an expedition to the top of Mount Sinai * ; one or two 
 of the priests, and a real pilgrim, a Greek, who had come from Cairo, 
 and taken advantage of our escort from Suez, were with us. Great 
 part of the ascent is made tolerably easy by steps, which are said to 
 be another instance of the Empress Helena's munificence to this 
 sanctuary : it took us about three hours to reach the top. We 
 passed in our way many little chapels dedicated to the Virgin, and 
 various saints, where our party burned tapers and performed their 
 devotions. About three quarters of the way up is the chapel of 
 Elias, and near it a fine cypress, which seems to start from the bare 
 rock. In this chapel we found the name of " E. Wortley Montagu," 
 dated 1761 ; hardly any other European names, and those of very 
 old dates j one or two in the 15th and 16th centuries. At the top of 
 the mountain is a Christian chapel and a mosque, both in ruins. 
 Near the mosque is preserved the impression of one of the feet of 
 Mahomet's camel in that mysterious journey when at the same instant, 
 one foot was on this spot, another at Cairo, the third at Mecca, and 
 the forth at Damascus. Our Mahometan companions here performed 
 their prostrations, and covered themselves with dust, which with the 
 Arabs is the substitute, in religious ceremonies, for water. It is 
 difficult to imagine a scene more desolate and terrific than that which 
 is discovered from the summit of this celebrated mountain ; a haze 
 indeed limited our prospect, but if that which was concealed resem- 
 bled in any degree what we saw, we lost little by not seeing more ; 
 for, except a glimpse of the sea in one direction, nothing was within 
 our sight but snow, and huge peaks and crags of naked granite. We 
 found snow soon after we left the chapel of Elias; and Antonio, who had 
 
 • Le Sinai ties Clireliens aupres clu couvent est presque tout de roc de granite rougeatrc, 
 et a gros grains. Niebuhr. — E.
 
 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 3*73 
 
 never been further from Cairo than Alexandria, was as much puzzled 
 with its appearance as he had been with the tides at Suez. The 
 mountain of Saint Catherine looks formidable, higher and steeper, 
 and has more snow than Sinai : we are come to sleep below it in. a 
 small uninhabited convent, called the Convent of the Forty Saints. 
 
 A Bedouin has brought us some game : the skin and head are 
 gone ; but we suppose it to be part of a gazelle. 
 
 A strange scene passed this morning under the walls of the convent 
 at Mount Sinai, showing not in a very favourable light either the 
 manners of the Arabs, or the condition of the priests. We were just 
 preparing to set off, when a great noise out of doors, and much 
 agitation within, induced us to go to the window, from whence we 
 saw below us, a crowd of Arabs brandishing their da^o-ers and cruns. 
 and screaming with every appearance of fury. The few priests who 
 ventured to show themselves were imploring mercy ; and as the Arabs 
 not unfrequently climb up the rocks which overlook the convent and 
 fire into it, we thought that this was the beginning of an attack. 
 Our coming to Vhe window produced a moment's pause; and for- 
 tunately some of our own companions from Suez were amono- the 
 crowd. By the help of Antonio and the priests we soon found that the 
 Arabs were complaining of some irregularity in the usual distribution 
 of bread and fuel : their animosity was chiefly directed against the 
 priest who superintended these matters ; and as they understood that 
 this culprit intended to accompany us to the mountain, it was thought 
 a good opportunity to be revenged. Their passion luckily did not 
 allow them to wait until we were all down and in their power ; and 
 one savage more furious than the others, flourished his daffiier, and 
 swore by the milk of his mother's breasts (an oath said to be held 
 very sacred among them) that the monk should not escape him. As 
 we remained at the window, he concluded by appealing to us as 
 friends of the Pasha of Egypt to witness the justice of his cause : 
 this alone enabled us to interfere with any chance of success ; and 
 after some persuasion and promise, and remonstrance, we obtained a 
 truce. The monk was allowed to go with us, on our engaging that
 
 ^^^ JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 he should return with us to the convent before we left the country. 
 All parties were at once at their ease : the obnoxious priest de- 
 scended without fear; and the Arabs either took no notice of him, or 
 spoke to him as to any of the others : but the priests do not seem to 
 infer from this that the conditions may be evaded, or that the quarrel 
 will not be renewed as soon as we are come back, and the truce is 
 over. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Jscent of the Mountam of Saint Catha-ine. — View from the Suvimit. — Valley of Rephidim. 
 
 Departure from Mount Sinai. — Different Tribes of the Arabs. — Tor. — Shells, 
 
 Corals, Madrepores of the Red Sea. — Remarkable sounds issuing from a bank of Sand. 
 
 Observations of the stars by the Arabs. — Application of the names Camel and Drome- 
 
 Jarij. Arrival at Suez. — Abyssinian Women. — Gazelles, or Aiitelopes. — Reference 
 
 made to them by the Arabs when speaking of their Women. 
 
 Feb. 12. — At half-past eight we left the convent of ihe Forty Saints, 
 and began to climb the mountain. In about an hour we came to a 
 small spring named the " Fountain of the Partridge," from having 
 been shown by one of these birds to the priests many centuries ago 
 when they were removing the body of Saint Catherine, and fainting 
 with thirst. We found a good deal of snow, and the climbing was 
 severe ; but on the whole we fared better than Pietro della Valle, 
 who went up in a violent snow-storm, and gives a lamentable account 
 of his adventures here. We reached the top at half-past eleven : 
 there is a shed over the spot from whence the Saint was removed : 
 the rock is said to have swelled upon that occasion, and assumed the 
 form of her body : its appearance, whether produced miraculously 
 or by art, gives currency to tiie story : it was covered with scraps of 
 rao- and other such pious offerings. The view from hence is of the 
 same kind, only much more extensive than from the top of Sinai : it 
 commands the two seas of Accaba and Suez : the island of Tiraan 
 and the village of Tor were pointed out to us : Smai was far below
 
 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 375 
 
 us: clouds prevented our seeincr the high ground near Suez : all the 
 rest, wherever the eye could reach, was a vast wilderness, and a con- 
 fusion of granite mountains and valleys destitute of verdure. 
 
 Our Arabs pointed to some mountains towards the south-east at a 
 great distance, and much higher than those about us; and called 
 them " El Accaba," a well-known ridge near the extremity of the 
 gulf of the same name, over which passes the road from Cairo to 
 Mecca. These mountains are sixteen days from Cairo, and twenty- 
 five from Mecca : the caravan from Damascus joins that of Cairo two 
 days before they reach Mecca: from Damascus to Mecca is a journey 
 of forty days ; this at least is what the natives have just told us. At 
 half past twelve we began to descend, and waiting to dine at " Par- 
 tridge Fountain," we did not reach the convent of the Forty Saints 
 until three : at four we mounted our dromedaries, and before six 
 were once more drawn up into our old quarters ; welcomed by all the 
 tribe of Caloyers and Papades, except the old Superior, who was too 
 ill to see us. In our way this evening from iNlount Saint Catherine 
 to the convent, we passed by the church of Saint Onofrio, and throuo-h 
 the valley of Rephidim, where we saw what is always shown as the 
 rock of Meribah : it is a large mass of reddish granite standing alone, 
 and detached from other rocks in the middle of the valley: there are 
 marks and channels upon it, which look as if they had been worn by 
 water ; and many inscriptions were cut upon its sides in characters 
 quite unknown to us : inscriptions in the same characters, as well as 
 in Arabic and Greek, are numerous on the rocks about. 
 
 Feb. 13. — A day of rest. We were shown what professes to be 
 the celebrated firman of Mahomet, granting many privileges, parti- 
 cularly to the priests of this Convent, and generally to Christians ; 
 there is, however, reason to suppose that the original document was 
 taken away by Sultan Selim, the conqueror of Egypt, who thought it 
 too precious and sacred a monument to be left in Christian hands. 
 The original was signed by Ali, and Abubekr, and many of Maho- 
 met's chieftains, the Prophet having consecrated it with his own seal. 
 Selim, at all events, left a firman confirming the same privileges ; and 
 
 -3b 4
 
 376 JOURNEY TO MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 to come to more modern times, we found one also from Buonaparte, 
 when in Egypt, promising friendship and protection to the convent. 
 In the library are many antient and modern Greek books and manu- 
 scripts, which have been examined by learned men, and are said to 
 be of little value. It was whimsical that in the midst of them we 
 should find a volume of the Spectator, and one of the British theatre. 
 One of the monks pointed to Wallachia on a modern Greek map of 
 the world, and asked if it was not America? The poor old Superior 
 was so ill that he could not leave his couch : he sent for us this 
 evening, and seemed very wretched ; and after complaining much of 
 the intrigues of the Convent, and the treatment which he experienced 
 from the monks, he concluded by entreating us, with much earnest- 
 ness, to take him with us to Cairo. His own infirmities, however, 
 make this cjuite impossible, without considering the tribute which the 
 Arabs would certainly exact for his passage. 
 
 Feb. 14. — This was our last day : we walked in the morning once 
 more over all the convent *, of which not the least curious circum- 
 stance is the enclosure of a Turkish mosque and Catholic chapel 
 within its walls. They took us also to the cemetery, a large vault 
 where the skulls of the deceased fathers are preserved. The monk 
 
 • After Mr. Davison and Mr. Montagu liad quitted the convent, they went into a valley 
 where they found the Manna of the Scriptures. The passage in Mr. D.'s MS. journal 
 deserves to be transcribed ; it mentions also a curious custom of the Arabs. 
 
 " Nous partimes du couvent; et laissant a main gauche le chemin par lequel nous 
 etions venus, nous cheminames entre des hautes montagnes. Nous nous arretames pres 
 le sepulcre de Sheick Saleh, dont nos Arabes approchoient avec grande devotion. Ayant 
 dit une courte priere, ils retournoient avec une poignue de poussiere, qu'ils jettoient sur 
 les tetes de leurs chameaux pour qu'ils participassent a la benediction, lis y sacrifierent 
 un mouton suivant I'usage et le mangerent. Nous partimes I'apres raidi et passant une 
 pierre sur laquelle on dit que INIahomet sc reposa, nous fumes nous coucher dans une 
 vallee pleine de ccs arbres que les Arabes appellent Turfe. Nous vimes quantite d'une 
 espece de gomme, que brilloit comme des perles sur les branches. Les gens du pais 
 I'appellent Men; et par plusieurs circonstances qui rcpondent a la description dans 
 I'ecriture on croit que c'cst le Mannc que les Israelites mangoient pendant les 10 ans qu'ils 
 erroicnt dans le desert. II est de la consistence de miel, et d'un gout un peu fade." — E.
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 377 
 
 who conducted us burned incense before the bones only of the more 
 dignified ecclesiastics. The garden, the approach to which is by a sub- 
 terraneous passage from the convent, produces fruit-trees and common 
 vegetables ; but though much extolled, it owes, I think, its principal 
 merit to the contrast of the surroundino; Desert. 
 
 We were now obliged to take leave of the old Superior, who to the 
 last seemed to indulge himself in vain speculations of being able to 
 go with us, though he was lying almost lifeless on his couch. All 
 reasoning was quite lost upon him ; and, as the only chance of doing 
 him any kindness, we left in his hands our present for the Convent, 
 in hopes, that while he has any thing to give, his monks may be 
 induced to treat him with a little more regard. The chance is, I 
 fear, a bad one ; but it was all that we could do. 
 
 About half-past ten we were let down by the rope amid clamorous 
 adieus from the convent window, and were received below by our old 
 friends the Bedouins, who had brought us from Suez, and with 
 whom we set off immediately to pay a visit to Awatt, the best of 
 them, at his own encampment. 
 
 The tribe of Arabs in this neighbourhood is, they tell us, divided 
 into three smaller ones. They seem to give the name of Tor to the 
 whole ; and when they speak of the divisions or branches, to distin- 
 guish them as follows * : Souwallah ; chief, Sali ; Mizaani ; chief, 
 Gimaiin ; and Allahaat ; chief, Ibrahim. The first of these is the 
 most powerful ; and Sali its chief is generally about the person of 
 the Pasha of Egypt, and acts there for the whole. Awatt is of the 
 Souwallah branch ; and Diako, the old Arab with a red turban, and 
 the most cunning of our party, belongs to the Allahaat, The lesser 
 Sheiks, or chiefs of ten or twelve families, are named by the great 
 
 • Niebuhr, I find, upon referring to him, gives the following names to three tribes ; 
 Leghat, Saualha, and Saiid: the two first are evidently the same as those given to me: 
 the third is indeed very different from Mizaani. I probably either misunderstood what 
 was said, or was misinformed : Niebuhr was much more capable of making enquiries from 
 his knowledge of the language ; and he is much more likely to be right. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 c
 
 g^g FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 
 
 Sheik of the tribe, and their authority is said to depend upon his 
 pleasure. In their dress (for both Awatt and Diako are in possession 
 of this subordinate rank) there is scarcely any thing to distinguish 
 them from the commonest Arabs ; their tents only are a little longer 
 than the others ; they are those in which strangers are received. 
 The Sheiks are much consulted in all disputes : it is they who make 
 peace : here, as elsewhere, war has little to do with deliberation, and 
 seems to result accidentally from private injury, avidity for plunder, 
 or any sort of caprice. Of justice their notions are, I believe, 
 strictly limited to retaliation and compromise. Awatt some years 
 ago quarrelled with an Arab of his own tribe, and killed him : he 
 fled to Acre until the matter could be settled, and it ended in 
 his paying thirty camels, and ten slaves to the man's family. There 
 may be, perhaps, a little exaggeration in the numbers, but I have no 
 doubt that something very like this took place. Hassan, a nephew 
 of the murdered man, is with us ; and he and the assassin are better 
 friends, and more constantly together, than any two of our party. 
 
 Awatt, who, in spite of this history, was a favourite, welcomed us 
 cordially when we reached his tents, and did not forget the hospitality 
 of his nation : he gave us fresh dates, which were delicious, and re- 
 commended them by reminding us that such had been the food of 
 his Prophet : he killed a kid also for us ; so that we fared sumptuously, 
 and pitched our tent for the night in the middle of his camp. 
 
 Feb. 15. — Our road, after passing a mountain of no great 
 consequence, entered into a narrow defile between two cliffs 
 of granite. About half-past eight the head of our little caravan 
 suddenly stopped ; and on riding up to see what was the matter, I 
 found the people in great confusion about poor Fran9ois, my Greek 
 servant, who was lying lifeless on the ground. His dromedary had 
 started, as it was supposed, at a serpent which crossed the path, and 
 had thrown him, head foremost, upon the rocks : his turban probably 
 saved his life. By degrees we brought him to his senses, and sup- 
 ported him slowly to some wells, and the shade of some palm-trees 
 which were, very fortunately, near us. Here we determined to pass
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 379 
 
 the day. The Arabs, in their anxiety to discover if any limbs were 
 broken, squeezed and pulled the poor man about with violence enough 
 to dislocate every joint in his body : they prescribed for him a dose 
 of hot coffee and butter ; and as this strange medicine appeared at 
 least to be harmless, and might possess some secret virtues, we thought 
 it right to insist on his swallowing it. 
 
 The valley, which hitherto had been narrow, opened at this spot 
 into a kind of amphitheatre, with a profusion of palm-trees, and 
 tamarisks, and other shrubs, which the moisture of the wells had 
 encouraged to grow to an unusual size among the rocks. The cliffs 
 that surrounded us here, like almost all that we have seen, look as if 
 they had been worn away by water : even at a great height from the 
 ground they are full of those circular excavations smoothed and 
 rounded out, which one observes in rocks exposed to the action of 
 the sea. 
 
 Our Arabs were put out of humour at so long a halt : they 
 contrived, however, to pass the time, and amuse themselves, with 
 firing at a mark, which they generally struck with great accuracy. 
 Their powder is of their own making, and very coarse : their guns are 
 matchlocks. 
 
 We thought that we might venture to move Francois a little this 
 evening : we set off at four, and about six came to an end of this long 
 defile, and entered the plain of Tor, where we soon encamped for 
 the night. The mountains of Upper Egypt are in sight, and the 
 village of Tor is, we are told, within a ^e\v hours of our tent. 
 
 Feb. 16. — We set off at six, and travelled along the plain till 
 about ten, when we came to a thick grove of palms, and a few mud- 
 huts, which they called " El Waadi." The inhabitants of Tor have 
 most of them taken refuge here, to avoid the soldiers of the Pasha of 
 Egypt on their passage to Djedda. The people of the village are 
 Greeks : one of them, named Malim Elias, and a priest, received us 
 most hospitably : they swept their huts, and prepared for us a mess 
 of something between Vermicelli and the Barbary Couscousou. 
 
 The Papas proposed to cup Franfois, v/ho grew worse after we came 
 
 3c 2
 
 380 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 
 
 here : he performed the operation by making incisions in the back of 
 his neck with a rusty razor, and then drew the blood into an old wine 
 glass : these simple instruments, and the practice, however barbarous, 
 quite answered their purpose, and the patient was instantly relieved. 
 
 The Papas, whose name is Gerasimus, of the convent at JVIount 
 Sinai, says that he has not heard of Mousa's (Seetzen's) death, 
 which within a day or two had been rumoured among the Arabs ; 
 but much of his conversion to Mahometanism at Djedda, and of the 
 magnificence with which he had been treated by the Sheriffe. 
 
 The Bedouins of the neighbourhood are come in, and insist upon 
 carrying us to Suez. They say that it is their invariable custom, and 
 undoubted right, to take charge of every traveller who passes here in 
 that direction ; and they swear by their beards that it shall be so now. 
 However, we have no thoughts of giving up our old friends ; and as 
 we are sure to have some Arabs on our side, we are not quite at the 
 mercy of these new rascals. 
 
 Feb. 1 7. — We left El Waadi, and rode to a small Ospizio belong- 
 ing to the convent of Mount Sinai : it is surrounded by palms, and 
 there are several springs of hot salt-water. This spot is generally 
 supposed to be Elim, famous " for its twelve wells of water, and 
 threescore and ten palm-trees ;" though some of the learned are in 
 favour of Corondel, near the Hammam Faraoun. The Arabs pointed 
 to what they called the impression of the fingers of Moses on the 
 rock, and told us the waters had been turned salt, to mark the indig- 
 nation of the lawgiver at some insult which he received here. The 
 real wonders of these countries are so striking, that they might well be 
 left to make their just impression ; but the inhabitants seem to think 
 that they have done but little to entertain a traveller, unless they in- 
 vent a miracle for every spot, and answer every question by relating 
 some extravagant tradition. 
 
 We went on to the deserted village of Tor, where every thing is in 
 ruins, and nothing remarkable except an old fort, said to have been 
 built by Sultan Selim.
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 381 
 
 The Papas, Gerasimus, showed us, in the course of the day, certifi- 
 cates of his hospitality, that he had received from Sir Home Popham, 
 and other officers who have landed on this coast. 
 
 We sent for our tent, and determined to pitch it close to the sea, 
 near Tor, and to remain here rather than at the village, until Francois 
 is well enough for us to continue our journey. Tor and El Waadi 
 are principally peopled by little colonies of Greek Christians, who 
 observe in their persons the most ostensible rite of the Jewish and 
 iMahometan religion ; and who seem to depend for their livelihood, 
 principally upon their skill in fishing. We found on the shore many 
 of those beautiful shells for which this sea is famous ; and as the 
 natives observed us gathering them, they proposed to us to go with 
 them in their boats, and promised to show us what they called trees 
 growing at the bottom of the sea. These people have a great repu- 
 tation as divers, and they fully justified it. There was not a breath 
 of wind : the water was as clear as crystal ; and when we had rowed 
 out to some little distance from the shore, we saw clearly what they 
 meant by trees : large clusters of coral, and madrepores of different 
 forms and colours *, and some of great size, looking like shrubs 
 growing out of the sand, and among these a profusion of shells, either 
 scattered over the branches of these marine plants, or lying between 
 them on the ground. The divers went down, and brought up, with- 
 out fail, any shell to which we pointed, and broke off branches of the 
 
 * The following are among the remarks made on this subject by that able naturalist, 
 Forskal, the companion of Niebuhr. See the F. O. p. 130. 
 
 Corallia. 
 
 1. Madrepora solida. Nunquam satis admiranda Coralliorum copia in Mari Rubro. 
 Monies hi lithophyti vocantur SJEeseb. Luxus et lusus naturas. His in locis observator 
 curiosus plura detegit paucis diebus, quam toto anno alibi. Usque ad decern orgyas vidi 
 haec saxa surgentia; dum aquis extrahuntur, suprema parte inveniuntur mollia; inde 
 magis magis(jue cartaliginosa ; fundus est lapis solidus. Specimina nullo negotio colli- 
 guntur. Incolsfi paratos lapides habent in mari, quos facilius secant et aedibus struendis 
 aptant, quam saxa calcarea qua; totos montcs adjacentes constituunt. — E.
 
 3g2 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 
 
 coral. They walked along the bottom of the sea, and remained 
 under water for a length of time that astonished us. 
 
 Afterwards, when we had landed, and were going by the shore to- 
 wards our tent, some one cried out, " Water ;" and my Seis (a groom 
 who had come with us from Cairo) began to scrape away the sand : 
 he found the water fresh and good a foot below the surface, and not 
 a yard from the beat of the sea. 
 
 Feb. 18. — We could not venture to set off to-day ; and we passed 
 the morning very agreeably in another diving expedition. 
 
 It is settled that we do not change our dromedaries ; but one of 
 the Sheiks of Tor goes with us, in order to re-assert before the Pasha 
 the rights of the Arabs of this village, and, as we should say, to pro- 
 test against their yielding to our resistance being drawn into a prece- 
 dent injurious to their privileges. 
 
 Feb. 19. — We left Tor at eight, and in an hour came to El Waadi. 
 About ten we sent on the baggage camels by the straight road, to wait 
 for us at a spot agreed upon, while we, under the direction of Malim 
 Elias, went among some mountains to the left, in quest of a spot 
 where it was said that supernatural noises might be heard. 
 
 About an hour and a half to the north of El Waadi, keeping along 
 the shore of the sea, we came to the foot of a high precipice, and a 
 bank of fine white sand which went in a rapid slope nearly to the top 
 of it. It is pretended here, as at the antient Memnon, that the noises 
 are only heard when the sun is at a particular height ; and the hour 
 at which we got there was fortunately favourable for the experiment. 
 Elias crossed himself devoutly, looked a little frightened, and then 
 scrambled up the bank. When he was about half the way up, he 
 stopped, and began to slide down again ; during which we distinctly 
 heard a sound, sometimes like one piece of metal struck against 
 another ; sometimes the sound was more continued, and reminded us 
 of the musical glasses. We then went up ourselves, and as we were 
 sliding down, the same sound was produced, louder or softer, as we 
 pressed more or less against the sand. We felt too, very sensibly, a
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 
 
 383 
 
 sort of quivering or vibration, proceeding, as it seemed, from some- 
 thing immediately under the surface of the sand ; and this feeling 
 always accompanied the sound. The sand, on the surface, is light 
 and dry, and in digging as deep as I could with my hands and a 
 dagger, I found only a bed of moister sand. Whether there is any 
 cavity below, or from what causes this phasnomenon may arise, I can- 
 not pretend to guess ; but I have attempted to set down correctly 
 what we heard and felt. The Greeks and Arabs a^ree in calling it 
 miraculous, and never expect to hear the sound until Saint Catherine 
 or Mahomet have been invoked. They have, of course, a crowd of 
 legends about saints, and departed priests and demons, and good and 
 evil genii, who celebrate their respective mysteries under this incom- 
 prehensible bank of sand. 
 
 We made the best of our way to regain the Suez road ; and having 
 joined our baggage about sunset, immediately pitched our tent. Diako, 
 who commanded the party which went on to wait for us, had met 
 some Arabs in his way, who informed him that the JNIaazes (the 
 robbers who had nearly deterred us from leaving Suez) had been to 
 the wells by which we had intended to pass on the first evening of 
 our journey, and though disappointed in the prey which they probably 
 expected, had seized thirty camels and made off with them. Our 
 Sheiks listened with much gravity and interest to this story, and 
 took very deservedly great credit to themselves for the plan they had 
 pursued. 
 
 Feb. 20. — We set off at four, and went along a plain of flinty 
 pebbles, in a northerly direction, between a range of high mountains 
 to the east, and a lower range near the sea to the west. At eight we 
 stopped to breakfast, when some strange experiments on the camels 
 were exhibited : proceeding again at a quarter after nine, we reached 
 the end of the plain at twelve, and at three we halted at the openijig 
 of a valley near the sea. We began our march once more at half-past, 
 six and it was half-past nine before we were allowed to pitch our tent 
 for the night. We were now close to the sea.
 
 384 
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 
 
 The Arabs make great use of the stars, not merely to guide them in 
 the direction of their march*, but as indications of time. I frequently 
 compared their calculations with my watch, and never found them 
 mistaken in above a quarter of an hour. This habit of observation 
 may be perhaps common with other people destitute of both compass 
 and watch. 
 
 Feb. 21. — We started at seven; at nine we halted for half an 
 hour, and again at twelve, at the foot of some mountains, which 
 bounded the plain to the north-east. Our camels and dromedaries 
 were here sent to water at a little distance from the road. 
 
 I cannot quite satisfy myself about these two animals. Camels are 
 generally said to have two humps on the back, and a dromedary but 
 one ; in this country, however, there are none with two humps, and 
 the natives seem to say camel or dromedary, with reference to no 
 distinction between them but their comparative size and lightness ; a 
 dromedary here bearing the same sort of relation to a camel, that 
 with us a hunter does to a race-horse. In the more northern parts 
 of Asia, near the Caspian, and in the Crimea, as well as towards Con- 
 stantinople, there is, I believe, a breed of camels with two humps : I 
 know not whether there are any dromedaries formed in the same 
 way ; but here, as well as in Egypt, the slow camels that march with 
 heavy loads in the caravans, and the dromedaries used for riding, and 
 purposes of expedition, have neither of them more than one hump. 
 If, therefore, the opinion that two humps are essential to a camel is 
 to prevail, it follows that those animals do not exist in Egypt, or in 
 Arabia, which have always been supposed to be in a peculiar degx'ee 
 their native countries. The camel and the dromedary breed together ; 
 
 * " No where could we discover in the face of the heavens more beauties, nor on the 
 earth fewer, than in our night travels through the deserts of Arabia; where it is impos- 
 sible not to be struck with this contrast : a boundless dreary waste, without tree or water, 
 mountain or valley, or the least variety of colours, offers a tedious sameness to the wearied 
 traveller, who is agreeably relieved by looking up to that cheerful moving picturCj which 
 measures his time, directs his course, and lights up his way." Wood's Balbec. — E.
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 385 
 
 and it is sometimes difficult in their mixed progeny to say to which 
 tribe a particular individual should belong. I think I have observed 
 that " camel" is occasionally used almost as a generic term to ex- 
 press all animals of this description ; " dromedary" is certainly al- 
 ways meant to distinguish a particular class. * 
 
 We left our watering place at three ; halted for dinner close 
 to the sea at half-past four ; set off again at six, turned into a 
 track among the mountains to the right, and at half-past nine we 
 encamped first beyond the cross paths where we had slept a fortnight 
 before. It was a sort of comfort in this solitude to be able to claim 
 acquaintance even with the rocks. The day after to-morrow we hope 
 to be able to reach Suez. 
 
 Honesty is not quite banished from among the Arabs. We picked 
 up this day some cloaks, and a sack of flour, which had been dropped 
 here in our way out, to avoid the trouble of carrying them : we had 
 expressed some surprise at the time, but the Bedouins then told us 
 that this was a common practice, and that as the things were left 
 within the territory of their own tribe, no one would think of taking 
 them. In this instance, they were not deceived ; and it seems a 
 proof of their confidence, both in each other's honesty, and in the 
 fineness of the \^'eather ; much rain would, of course, have been fatal 
 to their sack of flour. 
 
 • Tlie following remark of Forskal, in the Fauna Orientalis, may throw some light on 
 the passage in the text : — 
 
 Camelus vulgaris. Djammel. 
 
 Animal natum ad tolerandos laborcs, et incommoda orbis meridionalis. Os et gingivae 
 mira cartilagine induclEe ne noceant spins plantarum deserti, quas omnes fere armatas 
 sunt, quasque catera animantia horrent; quarum vero hclluo camelus est. 
 
 C. Droniedarius. Hadjin. 
 
 A camelo non specie sed propagatione variat; corporeapto et gracili; imprimis capite, 
 colio, pedibus. Cursu equo citatior. 
 
 C. Bactrianus. Bucki. 
 
 Gibbo dorsi duplice. Exoticus, et proceribus tantum inter animalia rariora reservatus. 
 — We find in this last paragraph the reason why the camel with two humps is not found 
 in the desert. — E. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 D
 
 ggg FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 
 
 Feb. 22. — We set out at half-past six. The cold for the first hour 
 or two was as intense as the heat was afterwards. We are travelling 
 now quite among old acquaintances, and at half-past nine halted at 
 the wells, where we had stopped on the sixth of this month. We 
 continued our journey again at a quarter after ten ; the wind from 
 the south, and very warm. 
 
 We narrowly escaped a very disagreeable event this morning. 
 Gaily Knight and myself, and one or two Arabs, had gone forward ; 
 and we were smoking our pipes under the shade of a rock, when the 
 rest of the party came up evidently in great agitation. The Arab 
 Awatt, who seemed to be the most concerned, and whose name was 
 loudly repeated by the rest, came forward and told his story. It ap- 
 peared that Francois (destined always to get into scrapes from acci- 
 dent or his own fault) had begun by falling into a passion with his 
 dromedary, and ended by striking Awiitt. The Arab fortunately 
 restrained himself, and did not, as is usual, take immediate vengeance 
 with his dagger or his gun. Franfois was led up to us as a culprit : 
 he was not allowed to quit his dromedary, and his stick was taken 
 from him. The Bedouins looked fiercely at him, and rather sus- 
 piciously at us : they hardly gave time to Awatt to finish his story, 
 (which he himself told with great composure,) but inferrupted him at 
 every instant, by shouts and gestures very unpleasantly significant. 
 As soon as he had concluded, the others began to scream all at once, 
 some telling the story fifty times over in fifty different ways ; others 
 describing the blow, and acting the whole scene in pantomime. We 
 were not quite in a disposition to be so much amused at this uproar, 
 as we might have been had we been less interested spectators : how- 
 ever, the barbarians, as they are called, behaved admirably ; and after 
 a little pause, and representing the insult they had received, and 
 appealing with great earnestness to the fidelity and care with which 
 they had conducted us through the Desert, they ended by referring 
 the dispute entirely to our decision. Francois was made to get down 
 from his dromedary, and rebuked before them all with great so- 
 lemnity ; and we then turned round to the Arabs, and by means of
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 337 
 
 Antonio told them how much we were offended with the Greek, and 
 that we hoped he never would forget that he owed his life to their 
 mercy : and when we began to express our concern, that after having 
 travelled so many days and nights with them in peace, and so often 
 eat together in each other's tents, any such misfortune should happen 
 to disturb our friendship, they were soon appeased, and coming up 
 to us, kissed our hands and the crowns of our heads, and called us 
 their Sultans, and said their lives were at our service. Awatt and 
 Fran9ois embraced ; and the generous savage passed suddenly from 
 rage to the warmest affection and tenderness, vowing that from that 
 moment he should look upon our servant as his brother. 
 
 Thus ended this unpleasant affair, which might easily have cost 
 some of us our lives ; and had one fallen, the rest would, perhaps, 
 scarcely have been spared. We went on again at half-past six, and 
 did not pitch our tent till a quarter past ten. 
 
 Feb. 23. — We halted at nine this morning near the place 
 where we had slept the first night. We set off again at ten ; and 
 as we were now near the end of our journey, we did not confine 
 ourselves to any very regular order, and one of the Bedouins chal- 
 lenged me to a race. Either his dromedary was better than mine, or, 
 what is at least as probable, he knew better how to urge its speed ; 
 but after galloping a mile or two I was obliged to yield. Indeed, 
 three weeks' experience of the quieter paces of the dromedary are not 
 at all a sufficient preparation for the jolts of its gallop : no motion 
 can be compared to it but that of a ship in a storm ; and the effort 
 seems as laborious to the animal as it is inconvenient to its rider. 
 The pace at which we have generally gone, a sort of amble, is 
 easy and far from disagreeable : the walk is uncomfortable, from the 
 great length of the strides. In point of speed, travellers compare 
 its trot to the gallop of a horse : I never saw them tried together ; but 
 I have often put the dromedary to a full trot, and the rate of going can 
 hardly be less than nine or ten miles an hour. This pace is rather 
 rough : it is used by the Arabs in flight or in pursuit ; and there are 
 accounts of their keeping it up for eight or ten days together, making ' 
 
 *3d 2
 
 388 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 
 
 not less than forty leagues a day. It is not uncommon for these 
 wonderful animals to go six or seven days without water, and with 
 scarcely any food : a handful or two of flour and water made into a 
 ball, or a few thistles, where the Desert produces them, are sufficient 
 for their support. They are very tractable and gentle : we guide them 
 either by a string fixed to a slit in the nose, or by a common halter. 
 When the caravan iialts they obey a particular signal ; and crouching 
 upon the ground, with their legs bent under them, enable you to load 
 and unload them, and to get off and mount again without trouble. 
 The Arabs often ride them without any saddle : upon the baggage- 
 camels there is a sort of wooden frame, like a pack-saddle, which covers 
 the hump : smaller machines of the same kind were placed on ours, 
 and with the addition of cushions we had very tolerable seats. 
 
 At two we came to the beach opposite to Suez, which after the 
 scenes that we had been now for some time accustomed to, suo;o;ested 
 ideas almost of luxury. In half an hour a boat crossed over to us, 
 and took us in a few minutes back to human habitations, and the 
 business of common life. The Pasha was walking on the shore, sur- 
 rounded by courtiers of many nations, Arabs, Turks, Copts, and 
 Armenians : he welcomed us with much good nature, and after joking 
 a little on our Turkish dresses, which we had put on for the journey 
 to Sinai, he told us to get a good supper, and be prepared to proceed 
 to Cairo to-morrow. His Italian physician, Mandrici, gave us wines 
 and many other things to which we have been long strangers ; and he 
 seems more rejoiced, even than ourselves, at the thoughts of leaving 
 Suez. Our Arabs and dromedaries forded the arm of the sea a little 
 higher up, but came here this evening. 
 
 Feb. 24. — The Pasha went on with a small escort on dromedaries, 
 not meaning to stop until he reaches Cairo. We found our horses 
 here, and abandoned our dromedaries, to the Arabs, the baggage, 
 and the servants. This is no longer severe travelling, and hard fare : 
 we are now in the midst of treasurers, and governors, and sol- 
 diers, and merchants who spread their Persian carpets, and feast 
 splendidly, and set the Desert at defiance. Besides these, two
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 389 
 
 Abyssinian ladies, who do not seem quite so much at their ease, 
 excite great attention : they are carried together in a large wooden 
 box on the back of a camel : the box sometimes loses its balance, 
 and the distress of its unhappy prisoners is then proclaimed by their 
 screams to the whole caravan. Their guards look fierce ; and pro- 
 hibit all approach : at night, too, when we encamped, the cage was 
 not opened till their tent had been raised over it ; and the ladies have 
 not been visible during the whole journey. They are said to be the 
 property of some rich Turk at Cairo. Abyssinian women are much 
 admired in this part of the world ; and though formerly Christians 
 might purchase them, this privilege has lately been confined to the 
 true believers. The faces of one or two whom I have seen were not 
 disagreeable : their complexion is of the deepest bronze. 
 
 We have also with us some Arabs, coming, as we are told, from 
 parts of the Desert to the westward, who have lately made alliances, 
 or perhaps rather capitulations, with the Pasha : every thing about 
 them indicates their belonging to rich and powerful tribes : their 
 horses are beautiful ; their arms of value ; and their dress very 
 different from that of any Bedouins we have yet seen. Their 
 complexion is fair, and their manners courteous : they seem glad 
 to talk to us, and speak of their having maintained an intercourse 
 with the English when we occupied Egypt. 
 
 Feb. 25, — We set off at half-past five, and halted about eight to 
 breakfast under some of the few wild acacias that are to be found 
 between Suez and Cairo. I begin to suspect that our discipline in 
 Arabia was pretty severe ; at least the difference between this journey 
 and that to Sinai strikes us more and more every instant. Our party 
 was then small, and our baggage light ; and from a sense of danger, or 
 for the sake of company, we all kept together, making the best of our 
 way, and stopping only when it was necessary to feed or rest. But 
 now, besides our caravan of loaded camels, the line of whose march 
 reaches sometimes above a mile, we have soldiers and rich Turks and 
 Armenians on horseback, glittering in arms and silks, and giving to 
 the Desert an appearance of any thing rather than its common soli-
 
 390 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 
 
 tude and desolation. Our own poor Bedouins are almost lost in the 
 midst of all this new finery. We pitched our tents at four : Mandrici 
 invited us to sup with him ; and as our provisions were nearly 
 exhausted, the offer was most acceptable : his canteen is always 
 well filled ; and the Champagne soon led to a curious theological 
 controversy upon the comparative merits of the founders of the 
 ('hristian and Mahometan religions. This was carried on between 
 our host and an Albanian chief, who had assumed the name of 
 Buonaparte : the Pasha's first dragoman made them intelligible to 
 each other, and at the same time to us ; for Mandrici only under- 
 stands Italian. It ended in their mutually professing an entire dis- 
 belief in either mode of faith ; and in vehement and incoherent 
 exclamations of blasphemy : this did not much surprise me on the 
 part of Mandrici ; but I had never before heard a Turk speak with so 
 little reserve of Mahomet. 
 
 Feb. 26. — We began our last day's march at half-past five. I 
 happened to be for a little while this morning quite at the head of 
 the caravan ; and on coming to the brow of a hill saw an immense 
 herd of gazelles, or antelopes, close below me : they ran off instantly 
 in all directions. When an Arab talks of the beauty of a woman, all 
 his comparisons are drawn from the gazelle : her eye is as large* and 
 as black ; her limbs as slender and her movements as graceful as the 
 o-azelle's. We had repeatedly seen these little animals in the desert ; 
 but never before very near us, or in great numbers. 
 
 Our beasts, unlike the dromedaries, were getting very faint, and 
 our stock of water was quite exhausted, when about twelve we reached 
 the plain irrigated by the Nile. There was a rush of man and beast 
 towards the first reservoir of water : the horses plunged their heads 
 under ; and many men jumped at once into the tank. The most 
 delicious wine is not to be compared to the first draught, after the 
 
 * " The moon has stolen her charms; and the antelope has borrowed the magic of her 
 eyes." — See Antar, p. 130., translated from the Arabic by Terrick Hamilton, Esq. — E.
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO CAIRO. 39I 
 
 dirty, brackish, and almost putrid water that we have been obliged to 
 drink. The sight, too, of this delightful plain, covered with the 
 brightest verdure, after our parched sands and barren rocks, excited 
 a feeling of pleasure and joy that I never can forget. * 
 
 At two we were once more at the gates of Cairo : our own paity 
 here rallied round us. Await led the way on his dromedary, shouting 
 as if in triumph, and brandishing a huge pole to the terror of all who 
 met him : he soon cleared the way for us through these narrow and 
 crowded streets, and brought us safely to the Franciscan convent, 
 where the friars, and Mr. Schutz, and our other friends, welcomed us 
 with the greater cordiality, as there had been a report of our having 
 perislied in the Desert. 
 
 Our faithful guides and companions, the Arabs, soon came to take 
 their leave of us : we tried in vain to persuade them to pass a day or 
 two at Cairo ; but they all, at once, declared that the confinement of 
 the houses and the town would be more than they could bear ; and 
 they are gone this very evening without the walls, to return instantly 
 to their Deserts, and to resume their lives of fatigue and wandering, 
 and unmolested liberty. 
 
 * The same feelings which the author has here described are expressed also by the 
 late Mr. Davison, in the following passage of his manuscript-journey to Sinai : — 
 
 " Le dernier jour de notre vovagc, en passant une montagne, nous decouvrimes avec 
 une joie inexprimable, les heureuses plaines de I'Egypte ; dont la beaute, la fertilite, et 
 les delices formoient un contraste le plus frappant avec le desert sec, sablonneux, et 
 brulant, d'ou nous n'etions pas encore sortis. Le desir de quitter I'un fut aussi grand 
 que I'envie d'atteindre I'autre. Nous n'avions plus la patience tie resler en compagnie 
 avec la caravane. Nous partimes d'un consentement commun; il sembloit que les drome- 
 daires meme prenoient part a notre plaisir. lis oublioient leur fatigue, et paroissoient de 
 ne faire que commencer un voyage. lis couroient avec une vitesse que rien ne pouvoit 
 egaler, excepte notre empressement d'arriver auCaire,pour boir un moment plus tot de I'eau 
 delicieuse du Nil. Nous avions une idee si extraordinaire de notre soif et de la quantite 
 de I'eau qu'il falloit pour I'etancher, que nous nous felicitames que c'etoit le temps de 
 I'inundation en Egypte; comme si cela auroit pu faire quelque difference sensible. Nous 
 arrivames enfin ; nous bumes quelques verres de cette eau charmante avec un plaisir, que 
 ceux qui en boivent tous les jours ne sent guere en etat de concevoir."
 
 392 
 
 ON A LAW OF CUSTOM 
 
 WHICH IS PECULIAR TO THE ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. 
 [COMMUNICATED BY MR. HAWKINS.] 
 
 In a well-known work of Mr. Guys, containing some original in- 
 formation respecting the manners and customs of the modern Greeks, 
 we have the first intimation of a very singular custom which prevails 
 in the island of Mytilin. It is to be found in the following passage 
 of one of his letters : — 
 
 " II y a dans I'lsle de Metelin, qui est I'ancien Lesbos, un usage 
 bien extraordinaire, quoiqu'il ne soit peut-etre pas destitue de raison, 
 et qui pourroit provenir des Lesbiens. Toutes les proprietes et tous 
 les immeubles appartiennent aux filles, et a la fille ainee ; ce qui im- 
 porte I'exheredation des garyons. Comme dans le cours de mes 
 voyages, je n'ai fait qu'aborder a cette Isle, et que je n'y ai pas fait 
 de sejour, je n'ai pu verifier le fait par moi-meme. Mais on me I'a 
 bien assure, et le premier Meteliniote que j'ai questionne sur cela, 
 m'a dit que le fait etoit vrai, que cet usage etoit tres-ancien, et que les 
 gar^ons consentoient volontiers a tout ceder a leurs soeurs, pour leur 
 procurer de meilleurs etablissemens. ' lis pourroient,' ajoutoit-il, ' s'ils 
 vouloient, reclamer la loi Turque, qui admet tous les enfans au partage 
 des biens paternels ou maternels ; mais ceux qui voudroient ainsi se 
 soustraire a la loi du pays, seroient deshonores.' " 
 
 No farther notice of this very remarkable fact seems to have been 
 taken by any traveller, until the late Earl of Charlemont communicated 
 to the Royal Irish Academy some particulars concerning it, which he
 
 REMARKABLE CUSTOM, &c. 393 
 
 had received on the spot from a gentleman who had long resided there 
 as French Consul. 
 
 This report, drawn up by his Lordship rather in the form of an 
 amusing narrative than as a plain statement of facts, is unfortunately 
 so deficient in clearness and coherency, as to convey very little pre- 
 cise information, either respectmg the custom itself, or the circum- 
 stances which are connected with it. By a comparison, however, of 
 these two reports, the state of the case appears to be us I'ollows : — 
 
 On the marriage of the eldest daughter, to which the parents have 
 no right to refuse their consent, all the real property becomes vested 
 in her ; and the other daughters, for want of a marriage-portion, are 
 condemned to perpetual celibacy. Should the father, however, by 
 his industry, acquire any more property of this description, a great 
 part of it, if not the whole, must be given as a marriage-portion with 
 the second daughter ; and so on in succession. 
 
 It appears by the testimony of both these travellers, that this is a 
 custom of long standing, to which the minds of the natives are ha- 
 bitually reconciled ; insomuch that there are few instances of any 
 endeavour having been made to evade its operation by an appeal to 
 the Turkish law. 
 
 The perusal of the two accounts above mentioned first directed 
 my attention to this subject of enquiry, when I departed from Eng- 
 land in 1793, on my second visit to the Levant. I felt anxious to 
 learn how far this custom was peculiar to the island of JNIytilin, and 
 what circumstances, connected with it, had been omitted or disre- 
 garded by these travellers. 
 
 At the close of the year 1794 I had the good fortune to meet 
 Mr. Guys, atZante. The misfortunes of his country (Marseilles) had 
 driven him, at an advanced age, to the Levant, where he had spent se- 
 veral years of his early life ; and he had immediately availed himself 
 of the advantage thus afforded by his situation, to resume his former 
 enquiries. I was pleased to see the lively interest with which he 
 pursued this object, and the judicious use which he designed to make 
 
 VOL. II. 3 E
 
 394 REMARKABLE CUSTOM PREVALENT 
 
 of the various information he obtained. Our conversation often 
 turned on the singular custom of Mytilin, which he had first made 
 known to the pubHc, and I promised to communicate to him what 
 farther particulars concerning it, I might have the good fortune to 
 collect. 
 
 Accordingly, at the close of the year 1797, I transmitted to Mr. 
 Guys, as the result of those enquiries which it had been in my power 
 to make ; that in a large proportion of the islands of the Archipelago, 
 the eldest daughter takes, as her marriage-portion, the family-house, 
 together with all its furniture, and one-third, or a larger share of the 
 maternal property ; which, in reality, in most of these islands, con- 
 stitutes the chief means of subsistence. That the other daughters, 
 as they marry off in succession, are likewise entitled to the family- 
 house then in occupation ; and the same share of whatever property 
 remains. Finally, that these observations were applicable to the islands 
 of ]\lytilin, Lemnos, Scopelo, Skyros, Syra, Zea, Ipsera, Myconi, Paros, 
 Naxia, Siphno, Santorini, and Cos ; where I had either collected my 
 information in person, or had obtained it through others. 
 
 As the subject is so interesting, I shall here literally transcribe the 
 notes from which the above information was compiled. To begin 
 with Mytilin, which is divided into two dioceses. In the diocese of 
 INIethymnfe, which extends over the southern half of the island, the 
 antient usage is preserved ; the eldest daughter, whenever she pleases 
 to marry, taking possession of the family-house and furniture, to- 
 gether with all the family-property. But in the diocese of Mytilin, 
 the natives have been prevailed on, by the present bishop, to adopt 
 some modifications, which mitigate the evils occasioned by this 
 singular usage ; and the rule, as it is now established, is as follows : — 
 If the family-property be valued at more than 1000 piastres, (equiva- 
 lent in 1797 to about 80/.) the eldest daughter's marriage-portion is 
 one-third of the amount, and the second daughter's portion one-third 
 of the remainder ; and so on, if there be more daughters ; the eldest 
 havino; the choice of her third, and being allowed to take something 
 more. As for the sons, they have a right to nothing, and the re-
 
 IN SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS. 395 
 
 maining property may be bequeathed in whatever manner the father 
 pleases. 
 
 In Paros, the eldest daughter, when she marries, takes possession of 
 the family-house, and one-half, or nearly that proportion, of all the 
 family-property. The other daughters divide the remainder as they 
 marry ; leaving a small part to the father, mother, and brothers. 
 
 In Naxia, the daughters, when they marry, take the property of 
 the mother, and the sons inherit that of the father ; but the eldest 
 daughter, who is always stiled Kura, Mistress, (Ks^^a, a corruption of 
 Kv^x,) by her brothers and sisters, takes the familj-house, and a much 
 larger portion than the others ; leaving however, to the parents what 
 is sufficient for their subsistence, under the title of rscovSof/.ot^,. 
 ■ In Siphno, the eldest unmarried daughter marries first, and takes 
 the family-house, together with a considerable portion of the property ; 
 after which the next unmarried does the same. 
 
 In Skyros, the eldest daughter, when she marries, is entitled by 
 the law of custom, to a considerable portion of the family-property. 
 
 In Santorin, she is distinguished by her superior dower, but is not 
 always entitled to the paternal house. 
 
 In Lemnos, each daughter in succession, when she marries, takes 
 the family-house. 
 
 In Scopelo, Syra, and Ipsera, every daughter in succession, has a 
 right to a house, as her marriage-portion. In Scopelo, the eldest 
 takes when she marries, not only the family-house, and all its furni- 
 ture ; but the whole of the maternal property : and if the son-in-law 
 prove avaricious, which is sometimes the case, and there is no other 
 property in the family, the parents are stripped of every thing. 
 
 No custom of this kind prevails either at Tinos, Andros, Miconi, or 
 Zea. It is equally unknown at Hydria, Spezze, and Poros, which are 
 peopled with Albanians of the Greek rituak 
 
 My information extends no farther. I lament that it is, upon the 
 whole, neither so precise nor so circumstantial as I could wish ; and I 
 still feel how much remains to be supplied by the industry of future 
 travellers. Imperfect, however, as it is, no doubt can remain of the 
 
 3e 2
 
 396 REMARKABLE CUSTOM PREVALENT 
 
 existence of this very singular custom in a great many, if not in most, 
 of the islands of the Archipelago, under various modifications ; and 
 of its having long prevailed there. 
 
 Here, then, two questions naturally arise: — Plave the islanders 
 derived this singular usage from some parent-stock of high an- 
 tiquity, as both ]\lr. Guys and Lord Charlemont suppose? or is there 
 any thing in the circumstances of their situation, which may have 
 suggested the expediency of its adoption ? 
 
 In respect to the first head of enquiry, jNIr. Guys endeavours to 
 account for the origin of this custom, by recurring to the period of a 
 particular event of the Peloponnesian war ; and by supposing that the 
 female part of the population, upon that occasion, were spared by the 
 Athenians, when the males were all massacred ; and, lastly, that the 
 females married the new settlers, with the view of securing the pos- 
 session of the family-property. This, to say the least of it, is but a 
 weak attempt to prove the antiquity of this custom ; and scarcely 
 merits the notice which Lord Charlemont has bestowed upon it. Let 
 us see, however, whether his Lordship is more happy in his con- 
 jectures. 
 
 Three quotations are brought forward by him from Herodotus, Plu- 
 tarch, and Nicolaus Damascenus, to prove that something of this sort 
 prevailed among the Lycians. According to the two former writers, 
 " The Lycians are called after the names of their mothers, not of their 
 fathers ;" according to the latter, " Among the Lycians, the women 
 are regarded with more respect than the men, who are, moreover, dis- 
 tinguished by the names of their mothers ; the jrroperti/, too, is inherited 
 by the daughters, and not by the sons" * The circumstance here last 
 mentioned is the only one which bears directly upon the subject before 
 
 Auxioi Taj yuvaTxaj jj-xWov r) T»j avipet; 1i/x.iZo-(, )j xuKuvlai fj-rjlpo^iv' Tu; Ss xKrigovo- 
 
 ftiaf TaK duyalgoicri ke'nrn<nv, « vol; iioT;. — Nicolaus Damascenus tie Moribus Grascorum. 
 
 To tiiese autiioiities may be added that of Heraclides Ponticus, de Politiis Grfecorum : 
 
 Auxioi Si^yov AjjreuovTEf. No'/ioi; ou ^gmlai aXX' e^ea-t, xoii ex waXaioO yuvaixoxga7oi3i<7ai. See 
 
 the note on this passage by the late editor Kbhlcr.
 
 IN SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS. 397 
 
 US ; and this his Lordship says he at first laid hold of, supposing it 
 possible that some colony might in latter ages have passed over from 
 Lycia to Lesbos, and there have established the custom here spoken 
 of. This supposition, however, being too gratuitous, he has recourse 
 to a passage in Diodorus, which he thinks will go a great way in 
 confirming it. ^^^e are told, says he, by Diodorus, that the 
 Pelasgi, who under their leader Xanthus, the son of Triopas 
 king of Argos, first inhabited Lesbos, had previous to their settle- 
 ment in that island, dwelt for some time in a certain part of Lycia 
 which they had conquered. Now, says he, these Pelasgi may be 
 supposed to have brought hither the usage in question. After this 
 attempt to prove its remote anticputy, which makes even his Lord- 
 ship smile, as well as his readers ; no farther stress is laid on this 
 hypothesis than it deserves : it is termed only " a possible way 
 of accounting for a thing," or, " it may have so happened." Had 
 his Lordship been able to prove the existence of such a custom in 
 Lycia, even so late as the time of the Romans, we might have some 
 hopes of being able to trace its transmission to the islands of the 
 JEgean : for I should here observe, that both Plutarch and Nicolaus 
 Damascenus were merely transcribers and compilers from works of a 
 much older date. Instead of this obvious course, we are at once 
 carried a thousand years still farther back, to the time of the Pelasgian 
 invasion of Lesbos ; or, in other words, one difficulty is brought for- 
 ward to remove another ; for if we can suppose that this usage had 
 subsisted from so remote a period in Lesbos, how is it, that neither 
 the three writers above quoted, when they speak of some remarkable 
 usages in Lycia, which bear some analogy to this, should have noticed 
 it, nor that any other writer of antiquity should even have hinted at 
 its existence ; when it is well known that most of these writers, especi- 
 ally Plutarch, who treats expressly of the character of the female sex, 
 were fond of noticing every thing that was remarkable in the civil 
 institutions, manners, and customs of different nations. The legiti- 
 mate inference from all which, is, that the usage here in question 
 did not exist in antient times.
 
 gog REMARKABLE CUSTOM PREVALENT 
 
 But if we are unable to trace up this singular usage to a period 
 antecedent to the establishment of Christianity, the question may be 
 fairly asked, How can it have originated since ? for it is certain that 
 the Justinian Code admits of no modification of the law of succession, 
 which is favourable to such a policy. To remove this difficulty, we 
 must have recourse to the supposition that some method was devised 
 of evadino- the written law, by substituting a customary one; and I 
 find in the Theodosian Code, (lib. v. tit. xii.) that a long established 
 custom, which was not contrary to the good of the public, was allowed 
 to have the force of law. * 
 
 The enquiry into the origin of this custom being thus confined to 
 modern times, and there being no events in the political history of 
 these islands, either during the middle ages or subsequently, which 
 can possibly account for it ; it remains for us to ascertain whether 
 there are any peculiar circumstances in the state of society here, which 
 may have suggested the expediency of its adoption. 
 
 The obvious tendency of such a customary law, is to prevent the 
 farther partition or accumulation of landed property ; but in order 
 fully to comprehend the object of such a permanent restraint on its 
 disposal, it will be necessary to take a view of the natural advantages 
 and disadvantages of these islands. 
 
 I shall observe then, in the first place, that these islands are, for 
 the most part, of so limited an extent, that the inhabitants occupy 
 only a single town or village ; from whence they visit every day their 
 little farms, or rather plots of vineyards and arable ground. In the 
 next place, that the proportion of arable ground and of vineyards, or 
 of ground adapted to these purposes, is extremely small ; the surface of 
 the country being in general so rocky and uneven as to admit of a very 
 thin covering of vegetable mould. Many of the smaller islands have not 
 even the smallest portion of level ground, except that which has been 
 
 * " Venientium est temporum ilisciplina instare veteribus institutis. Ideoque cum nihil 
 per causani publicam intervenit, quae diu servata sunt, permanebunt." 
 
 Interpretatio. Longa consuetude, quiE utilitates publicas non impedit, pro lege sel-- 
 vabitur.
 
 IN SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS. 399 
 
 shaped, by the labour of the inhabitants, into terraces, and is supported 
 by stone walls. The agricultural labours, therefore, of these people are 
 carried on under every possible disadvantage ; and their scanty crops, 
 in this dry climate, make a miserable return for their unwearied in- 
 dustry. To these observations may be added, that little or no wheat is 
 grown in the Archipelago. The bread of the islanders is made of barley ; 
 and the remainder of their food consists of pulse and of dried figs : 
 for the more choice articles of food which are obtained here, such as 
 cheese, honey, and v;ine, must be disposed of to pay the poll-tax, and 
 other government-impositions. 
 
 Under these circumstances, it is evident that there can be no such 
 thing as revenue in the shape of rent ; and that each spot of arable 
 ground can be cultivated with effect only by its actual proprietor. 
 Here, then, if we except the class of merchants and navigators, all the 
 male inhabitants are necessarily cultivators ; and, from the nature of 
 their local circumstances, the majority of them can be occupiers only 
 of as much ground as they can cultivate. It follows, that each portion 
 must be well cultivated, or it would produce nothing, and thus no 
 resource would be left for the discharge of the very heavy pecuniary 
 impositions which are laid upon it ; and this, perhaps, will account 
 for the exclusion of the males, above a certain age, from the occu- 
 pation of land, which is the virtual consequence of the customary law 
 above mentioned. 
 
 If, under this view of all the circumstances of their situation, we 
 admit the expediency of fixing the size and extent of each portion of 
 landed property, on the first settlement of an island ; the quantity of 
 land so fixed, must be regulated by a calculation of what is sufficient 
 for the decent maintenance of each family, and at the same time for 
 raising as much surplus produce as would discharge the public burdens 
 imposed on it. This quantity being once ascertained and fixed, the 
 population of the island will be regulated by it ; and the excess will be 
 under the necessity of migrating, and colonizing on the same principles 
 other islands ; until all are inhabited and cultivated. When this 
 however is accomplished, and there are no more unoccupied islands,
 
 400 REMARKABLE CUSTOM PREVALENT 
 
 the supernumeraries must necessarily betake themselves to other modes 
 of industry ; as is actually the case. Numbers of these, in fact, be- 
 come navigators and merchants : many of both sexes migrate to 
 Constantinople, Smyrna, and Salonica, where they are usually em- 
 ployed in the capacity of menial servants ; and no small proportion 
 of these supernumeraries devote themselves to religion and celibacy. 
 This mode of accounting for the usage in question, will appear 
 more clear and satisfactory, if we reverse the hypothetical case upon 
 which I have argued. Let us suppose, then, that no restraints what- 
 ever have been laid on the disposal of landed property in these 
 islands ; which property is become, in process of time, as unequally 
 partitioned, as it is in other countries ; that is, some of the inhabitants 
 have much more than they can personally cultivate, many less than 
 they can cultivate, and many none at all. In this case, we will admit 
 that the possessions of the great pi-oprietors may be cultivated by the 
 hired assistance of the two other classes : the burden of the territorial 
 impositions being borne by the land-owners, while the poll-tax, with 
 some variation, falls upon all the inhabitants. The result of this state of 
 things must be, first, the same numerical population, although of a very 
 different character ; a few only of the inhabitants being at their ease, 
 without being rich ; but by far the greater part in extreme indigence. 
 Secondly, a very inferior produce; for the soil, under all these circum- 
 stances, cannot possibly be so well cultivated : to explain which, it will 
 be proper for me to observe, that in the system of agriculture which 
 alone is practicable here, the hoe, the shovel, and the pruning-hook 
 are much more operative fcstruments than the plough. In short, the 
 partition of property in such a country as this, seems to be absolutely 
 necessary to its perfect cultivation. The principal articles of produce 
 are, barley, various sorts of pulse, gourds, cotton, silk, wine, figs, a few 
 olives and almonds, honey, and goats' cheese ; all of which are obtained 
 from the cultivation of small portions of land, dispersed over the 
 whole surface of this hilly country, and lying, for the most part, ^t a 
 great distance from the dwellings of their occupiers. In all the 
 smaller islands, as I have already remarked, the population is as-
 
 IN SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS. 401 
 
 sembled in a single town or village, although this town is not always 
 placed in the most central and convenient situation, and sometimes, 
 for its greater security, at one end of the island. 
 
 I have here treated the subject purely as a question of political 
 economy, and have given what I conceive to be the most easy and 
 obvious solution of it. But I must again observe, that the introduc- 
 tion and adoption of such an Agrarian law, whether under a heathen 
 or a christian government, can be supposed only to have taken place 
 at the period when each island was newly colonized. In the natural 
 course of events, it must have been transplanted from one island to 
 another by the new settlers, and as, in the infancy of each colony, 
 it was found to be peculiarly well adapted to all the circumstances of 
 their new situation, it must have gradually acquired the force of habit 
 before the natives began to feel its inconveniences. I suspect, there- 
 fore, that the more liberal form under which this customary law now 
 appears, in most of the instances which I have cited, has been merely 
 the result of such a feeling. 
 
 Tiie history of the Archipelago affords sufficient authority for the 
 supposition that most of these islands have been at some period 
 deserted, and at other times gradually re-peopled. We know that, 
 during a long interval, they were exposed to the depredations of the 
 Saracens, who were succeeded by the Turkish pirates of Pfokia. At 
 length, after the conquest of Constantinople by the Latins, all the 
 larger islands were separately taken possession of by Italian and Cata- 
 lonian adventurers. These petty sovereigns were finally expelled in 
 the years 1537 and 1538, by Barbarossa. The islands have been sub- 
 sequently exposed to the insolent rapacity of the Maltese cruisers, 
 and in all the wars between the Turks and the Venetians they have 
 suffered from the alternate exactions of both powers. 
 
 Whatever may be the judgment of my readers as to the origin of 
 tliis Agrarian law, if I may so call it, and as to the period of its intro- 
 duction, it must be generally admitted that it has derived its exist- 
 ence solely from local causes, some of which are perhaps still 
 uninvestigated. I shall, therefore, conclude with noticing a curious 
 
 VOL. II, 3 F
 
 402 LABYRINTH OF CRETE. 
 
 fact, which may be thought to have operated in conjunction with 
 those already mentioned, in producing it. Travellers, from the be- 
 ginning of the fifteenth century to the present time, concur in re- 
 marking, that the female population, in a great many of these islands, 
 is much greater than the male ; and, as far as my enquiries extended, 
 a much greater number of female than of male children are born 
 here. 
 
 THE LABYRINTH OF CRETR 
 
 [COMMUNICATED BY MR. COCKERELL.'] 
 
 Among the antient writers who have mentioned the Labyrinth of 
 Crete, none have given the description of an eye-witness ; on the 
 other hand, of the modern travellers who have published their observ- 
 ations upon the same island, Tournefort is the only one who has given 
 a detailed description of that remarkable cavern, at the foot of Alount 
 Ida, and near the site of the antient Gortys, which the modern Cretans 
 suppose to have been the Labyrinth. 
 
 Although some reasonable doubt may continue to exist as to the 
 identity of this cavern, we are surprised, that its singularity, and ap- 
 parent antiquity, combined with the extreme interest attached to a 
 work so celebrated by the antients as the Labyrinth of Crete, have not 
 excited in a greater degree the curiosity of travellers as to the existing 
 excavation. 
 
 There is nothing that renders our curiosity upon this subject more 
 reasonable than the unanimity of the antient writers upon the subject 
 of the Labyrinth : they all agree that it was formed by a king, named 
 Minos, w^ho lived several centuries before the Trojan war ; and that
 
 LABYRINTH OF CRETE. 4Q3 
 
 the artist was an Athenian, named Daedahis, on his return from 
 Egypt, full of the information derived from the contemplation of the 
 wonderful works of that country. 
 
 Hence we cannot help entertaining a hope of finding, in the Laby- 
 rinth of Crete, some marks of the earliest imitation, by the Greeks, of 
 the works of that country to which they were indebted for so large a 
 proportion of their JMythology and sacred Architecture ; and it was 
 this sentiment that formed one of my strongest motives for visiting 
 that island, and in particular the place which is still knovsTi by the 
 name of the Labyrinth. 
 
 We had been detained nearly a month at the capital of Candia, 
 when, with some difficulty, we obtained permission to visit the Laby- 
 rinth. The confinement and caution to which we had been oblio-ed 
 to submit, by the jealous and lawless character of the Tui'kish militia, 
 and by the ceremonious hospitalities of the higher orders, rendered 
 this permission as grateful as our stay had been irksome. 
 
 It appeared to us that the disposition of the Turks of this island, 
 so much more savage than in the rest of Greece, had been in a great 
 measure occasioned, or at least strengthened, by the late French and 
 English expeditions to Egypt. The alarm which these had excited, 
 the reflection on their distance from the capital, and the wretched 
 state of their fortifications, served to increase their apprehensions, and 
 render them particularly averse to the sight of Europeans. We found 
 also among them a ferocious recollection of their long and destructive 
 contest with the Venetians, in an island which was called the grave of 
 the Mussulmauns. 
 
 We were easily provided with an escort of Janissaries, from the 
 town of Candia to the Labyrinth ; for they were glad enough to take 
 advantage of the boyourdi or passport of the Vizier, to regale them- 
 selves at the expense of the unfortunate Greeks ; and, in order to pro- 
 long this privilege, we were conducted by a circuitous route of two 
 days, to perform a journey of not more than twenty miles. 
 
 We were, however, repaid for this deviation from the direct road 
 •by passing over some ruins, which, by the correspondence of the site 
 
 3f 2
 
 404 LABYRINTH OF CRETE. 
 
 with the description of Strabo, we could not doubt must have be- 
 longed to the city of Cnossus. At the distance of about three miles 
 (south-east) from the city of Candia, and at about two miles from the 
 sea-shore, we found the remains of some antient constructions in the 
 plain ; and along the side of the road, which then led us southward 
 into some rocky passes, we observed a vast number of catacombs, 
 which we considered as a confirmation of our conjecture. 
 
 Our journey, during the first day, lay through a rocky country, in- 
 tersected by small plains, naturally fertile, and formerly interspersed 
 with villages which are now decayed. Early in the second day we 
 entered the plain of Messai'ia, the most productive in the island ; but 
 we did not find the country by any means so picturesque as the 
 scenery we had passed in a former journey, in our road from Canea 
 to Candia, at the foot of the Sphachiot mountains. 
 
 At Agio Deka, which is situated very near the antient Gortys, we 
 procured guides. Upon the site of the city we observed the ruins of a 
 theatre, and some other inconsiderable remains ; but we found nothing 
 which could engage us to delay our progress towards the Labyrinth. 
 We crossed the side of a mountain which forms one of the roots of 
 Mount Ida; and at the distance of about three miles from Agio Deka 
 we ascended the steep hill in which the mouth of the excavation is 
 found. This entrance is not distinguished by any remarkable appear- 
 ance, and we should easily have passed it as an ordinary cavern. 
 
 We examined the surrounding declivity, but could not find the 
 smallest vestiges of any building which might have been attached to 
 it ; nor indeed would the site have admitted of any such works. The 
 opening, which is low, and encumbered with earth and fallen frag- 
 ments, leads by a descent into a double vestibule, which is about 25 
 feet broad, and 45 feet long ; from thence four door-ways conduct into 
 the interior of the excavation, of which, however, that on the right 
 hand only is penetrable. Here we established a trusty guard to se- 
 cure the end of a clue ; a precaution, as necessary, as it was classical. 
 
 We then proceeded in our examination, each holding his torch, and 
 our guide always taking every turning to the right. We made the
 
 'LA B irmi :£T t m o i* c m.ie, t :v,
 
 LABYRINTH OF CRETE. 405 
 
 circuit of the first chamber, and of the adjoining passages, till we 
 arrived at that which conducted to the interior : this we found ex- 
 tremely low and narrow, and for some paces we were obliged to crawl 
 on our hands and knees * ; but we soon reached the principal way, 
 which is about eight feet wide and as many in height : this we pur- 
 sued for some distance without interruption. On the aides we ob- 
 served the stones cut into convenient sizes, as if for the purposes of 
 building, and ranged in a careful order ; but in the pavement, or path, 
 which is nearly on a level throughout the excavation, .we could not 
 discover any tracks of wheels. 
 
 It occurred to us that the intention of the Labyrinth might have 
 been sepulchral ; and that in imitation (in some degree) of the Egyptian 
 works, its winding passages might have been designed to protect the 
 bodies deposited in the remote chambers from violation, more effec- 
 tually than could be done even by the immense masses of the pyra- 
 mids, or the long passages of the tombs of the kings at Thebes ; we 
 were therefore careful in searching for any vestiges of sarcophagi, or 
 of niches for the reception of coffins ; but we could not discover any 
 remains whatever of this kind. 
 
 We did not leave a single passage, of those which are still pene- 
 trable, unexplored ; but we found the greater part of them stopped up 
 by the falling ceiling, or with fragments of stone thrown in ; and con- 
 sidering their number f , and that besides, the three principal entrances 
 from the vestibule, are now quite impervious, it may be presumed, 
 a small portion only (although in the whole length and winding of 
 the passages nearly three quarters of a mile) is now accessible. 
 
 The designed irregularity of the passages quickly bewilders the 
 traveller in its present state ; but were they all open, the task of un- 
 
 * Touriicfort considers the narrowness of this passage a strong argument against the 
 opinion of Belon and others, tliat tliis excavation was a quarry, from the impossibility of 
 drawing any quantity of stone through it; but an observation of the plan will show at 
 once that it was merely a communication between the passages which lead to the entrance, 
 either for ventilation, or to increase the intricacy. 
 
 f See the plan.
 
 406 LABYRINTH OF CRETE. 
 
 ravelling the maze would indeed be one of serious difficulty. Three 
 or four door-ways seem often presented to confuse the traveller, and 
 so to bewilder the recollection, by the frequent turnings, as to make it 
 quite impossible to retrace his steps with any certainty. 
 
 In proceeding to the part termed Trapezi by the Greeks, and which 
 they consider the most remote chamber, we were sometimes obliged 
 to make our way again on our hands and knees : here we found many 
 Italian names, and some of our own countrymen. There is also a 
 small spring here, and the water that exudes from the rock produces 
 a kind of fungus ; but the chambers are generally remarkably dry : 
 they are considerably higher than the passages, and piers are ju- 
 diciously left in them to secure the impending rock. In one of these 
 we were much inconvenienced by the number of bats put in motion 
 by the explosion of a pistol, and we had nearly extinguished our 
 lights in the confusion. 
 
 In the course of our walk we were a good deal alarmed by the loss 
 of one of our companions, a mad Greek*, who had wandered into one 
 of the passages unperceived, and as our guides declared that there 
 was no termination to the passage, we were in considerable anxiety 
 for some time ; we at length, however, found him in one of the most 
 distant chambers. 
 
 At the place marked c in the plan, we were surprised to discover 
 our clue again, not having been aware of the circuit we had been 
 making ; we however followed it until we came to a passage we had 
 left unexplored, and which conducted us to several chambers which 
 I have reason to believe were not seen by Tournefort, or the gene- 
 rality of travellers. 
 
 We did not, however, find any difference in the style and manner 
 of the excavation, nor any thing which could in the least convey to 
 us a clear conception of its original intention. 
 
 * In Turkey, lunatics are treated with a superstitious rc<rard, and when they are harm- 
 less they are allowed to go about freely. This poor fellow, attracted, as he assured us, 
 by the likeness of two of our party to St. Michael and St. George, had ran beside our 
 horses all the way froni Candia.
 
 LABYRINTH OF CRETE. 407 
 
 We returned, not unwillingly, to the open air, after nearly four 
 hours passed in exploring these passages, sometimes crawling with 
 difficulty along the floor, incumbered with fragments, and always in 
 apprehension of falling into holes, or over the blocks of stone, which 
 in some places are lying on the floor. 
 
 The object of this excavation is still a matter of conjecture ; but 
 the quality of the rock, which is a sandy freestone, very easily cut, 
 and perfectly adequate to the common purposes of building, added to 
 die vicinity of the place to Gortys, inclined us to the opinion that it 
 had served the purposes also of a quarry during the foundation of the 
 city of Gortys ; and that the long passages and mazes of this singular 
 form had been given as a secondary object, either for the concealment 
 of property or the security of prisoners. Examples of this combin- 
 ation of purposes occur, both of antient and modern date. 
 
 Such are the cemeteries or necropolis of Syracuse, the quarries of 
 Latomioe, and the Ear of Dionysius, in the same place ; the exca- 
 vations at Agrigentum, Malta, Paris, and one in Maestricht of very 
 considerable extent, which much resembles the Labyrinth of Crete. 
 
 Tournefort has supposed it to be a natural cavern, made practicable 
 for the purpose of concealment, or as a place of refuge in times of 
 persecution ; but an excavation of this extent would hardly be under- 
 taken for a temporary object ; besides, the nature of the rock is such 
 as furnishes no instance of extensive natural caverns ; these, if I am 
 rightly informed, are never found but in rocks of calcareous formation. 
 
 Whatever may have been the manner in which it was constructed, 
 I am inclined to think that it is the identical Labyrinth alluded to in 
 the writings of antiquity. 
 
 I may be allowed perhaps to state a few reasons for this opinion. 
 It must be admitted, indeed, that Strabo and Pausanias * are de- 
 cidedly adverse to it : they agree in saying that the Cretan Labyrinth 
 was not at Gortys, but at Cnossus ; and the evidence of Herodotus 
 
 • Strabo, lib. x. p. 476. Paus. lib.i. c27.
 
 408 LABYRINTH OF CRETE. 
 
 also, who describes the Labyrinth of Egypt as a buildizig, together 
 with that of Pliny *, who compares the Labyrinth of Crete with that 
 of Egypt, tend in some measure to confirm the supposition, that the 
 cavern near the ruins of Gortys was not the Cretan Labyrinth. The 
 observation, too, of Diodorus Siculus f, that not a vestige of the 
 Cretan Labyrinth remained in his time, seems more applicable to a 
 buildins than an excavation in the rock. On the other hand, we find 
 that the Greek word " Labyrinth" was not exclusively employed to sig- 
 nify a building; for Strabo :}: applies it to some caverns near Nauplia. 
 It is impossible, moreover, for the traveller who has been bewildered 
 in the mazes of the Gortynlan cavern, and who has experienced the 
 absolute necessity of a clue to guide him through its windings, not to 
 admit that it is admirably adapted to the Athenian tale of Theseus, 
 released from the Labyrinth by means of a clue supplied to him by 
 Ariadne ; while, on the other hand, such a tale seems hardly admis- 
 sible when applied to a building above ground. Unless, therefore, 
 there was a similar one at Cnossus, it is difficult to believe that the 
 cavern near Agio Deka was not the reputed scene of this story. 
 
 We know from Homer, that although Minos, who confined Dae- 
 dalus and Theseus in the Labyrinth, had his residence at Cnossus, or 
 at least that Cnossus was his foundation, and one of his favourite cities, 
 yet it is evident, likewise, that his dominion extended over the 
 greatest part of Crete, and must certainly have comprised Gortys, 
 which was only twenty miles distant from Cnossus, and which did 
 not become an independent republic, and a rival of Cnossus, until 
 after the extinction of the regal family of Minos. The placing of the 
 Labyrinth at Cnossus, therefore, by Strabo and Pausanias, may have 
 been an error, arising from the circumstances of the king, to whom 
 it belonged, having his residence there ; or merely because that city 
 had been called by Homer " the JNlinosian Cnossus." 
 
 * He remarks that the Labyrinth of Crete was not a hundredth part of that in Egypt. 
 Lib. xxxvi. c. 13, H. 
 
 f Diod. Sic. lib.i. c. 61. \ Lib. viii. p. 369.
 
 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 409 
 
 Soon after the age of Strabo and Pausanias it appears to have been 
 equally the custom to suppose Minos to have been the ruler of Gortys. 
 Statius calls Minos Gortynim arbiter, and Catullus places the scene 
 of the adventure of Theseus, not at Gnossus, but at Gortys. 
 
 We trace the same opinion prevailing in the 11th and 12th centu- 
 ries ; for Cedrenus describes the place where Theseus was delivered 
 by the clue of Ariadne, as a cavern near Gortys; and Eustathius 
 gives his testimony as to Gortys being the situation of the Labyrinth. 
 Here also the local tradition still continues to place it. 
 
 If, therefore, the authorities in the time of the Roman Empire are 
 in discordance as to the position of a place, which is stated by one of 
 them to be no longer in existence, we are the more justified in refer- 
 ring solely to the testimony contained in the story of Theseus and 
 Ariadne, the circumstances of which have such a perfect agreement 
 with the singular excavation still existing near the ruins of Gortys ; 
 the extreme antiquity of this excavation can hardly be doubted ; and 
 that of the tale of Theseus and Ariadne is equally evident, from its 
 being found designed upon so many antient vases, and from its having 
 been related or sung by most of the early writers. 
 
 ON THE SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 
 
 {COMMUNICATED BY MR. WILKINS.] 
 
 Pausanias, to whom we are indebted for a variety of information re- 
 lating to Grecian art, has contented himself with offering a few scanty 
 remarks on one of the noblest productions of the most enlightened 
 age of Greece. His architectural notices, indeed, are every where 
 superficial, but his descriptions of statues and paintings frequently 
 extend to the minutijB of the composition. 
 
 His neglecting the opportunity of signalising the sculptures of the 
 
 VOL. II. 3 G
 
 410 
 
 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 
 
 Parthenon, has been by some attributed to the celebrity of the sub- 
 jects he so carelessly mentions ; all information relating to them being 
 supposed in the possession, not only of the people amongst whom 
 these objects of admiration were preserved, but of Greece at large. 
 
 Such an assumption is wholly inadmissible, so long as analogy is 
 allowed to be one of the tests of fair criticism ; for, laying aside all 
 consideration as to the improbability of a traveller suppressing, in his 
 narrative, all mention of the chefs-d'ceuvre of the country he visits, 
 merely because these productions and their authors were universally 
 known, we must, in order to admit of the argument, be satisfied that 
 in thus abstaining from eulogy, he was acting upon a general system 
 of silence, in all cases where the celebrity of the object seemed to 
 render description unnecessary. 
 
 Numberless instances might be adduced, in proof of the observance 
 of a principle diametrically opposite ; it will be sufficient to mention 
 one ; where, if description could ever be dispensed with on account of 
 the celebrity of the subject, an occasion presented itself — the statue 
 of Jupiter at Olympia ! This most celebrated of the productions of 
 Phidias, the importance of which entitled it to be ranked amongst the 
 wonders of the world, situated in a part of Greece more resorted to 
 than any other spot, is mentioned with all the minuteness of profes- 
 sional description. 
 
 The only notice taken by the Grecian traveller of the sculptures 
 adorning the two pediments of the Parthenon, relates to the subjects 
 of the compositions ; if, therefore, any inference is to be deduced 
 from the total absence of remark, either as to the design or execution, 
 it would be more rational to conclude, that, however estimable they 
 appear in the eyes of modern criticism, they excited no strong sen- 
 sation in the mind of the writer accustomed to the contemplation 
 of works of higher pretensions. What a vast idea of the excellence 
 of Grecian sculpture is conveyed by admitting the existence of such 
 transcendant specimens of the art ! These, indeed, called forth de- 
 scriptions, not only of the principal features, but of their less impoitant 
 accessories. The short passage in which allusion is made to the sculp-
 
 u 
 
 — iJ
 
 L 
 
 Z/,:/^/// y,>/////,y// ,/ </^- 'A//^. 
 
 :"vi, 
 
 
 l&imi^ /l. ,„ V.r l( 
 
 h^^ 
 
 //',.„. 
 
 ■f/'-" "-*- Air ' 
 
 C T I t n 
 
 
 tL_ 
 
 ATlH:ECTlIAn TA3S.
 
 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 411 
 
 tures in question, furnishes us, however, with a circumstance of some 
 interest — the subjects considered by the Athenians appropriate for 
 the embellishment of this their splendid and noblest temple. " On 
 entering the temple called Parthenon," says Pausanias, " all the 
 circumstances relating to the birth of Minerva occupy the part 
 called the pediment: tlie rear of the temple displays the contest be- 
 tween Neptune and Minerva for Attica." 
 
 Those who have contended that the Athenians regarded, as the 
 entrance of the temple, the front which first presented itself to a spec- 
 tator on entering the acropolis through the Propylaea, argue in mani- 
 fest contradiction to the religious observances of the Athenians * ; 
 exemplified in all the other temples of Athens, and particularly in 
 the Erectheum upon the citadel itself. 
 
 The entrance into the acropolis was determined by circumstances 
 admitting no alternative. A rock, accessible on one side only, left 
 the projectors of the Propylsea no option as to site, and we enter at 
 the west end. The Parthenon is on our right ; and the Erectheum, 
 which lies less out of a direct line drawn from west to east, is on the 
 left. The western fronts of both buildings, therefore, are those more 
 immediately facing us. If, on this account, the eastern front of the 
 Parthenon, from the impossibility of approaching the acropolis at 
 this end, were to be considered as the oTntrdiv of Pausanias, tiie 
 same law of necessity must lead us to regard the western end of the 
 Erectheum as the front, properly so called. The plan of the 
 building presents an unanswerable argument in opposition to such an 
 inference — there are three entrances ; the west end alone is closed ! f 
 
 • Tlpog ecu Toiv Upiv fiKeirovTiav. Pint, in vit. Num. 14. The golden shields which 
 Lachares removed from ihe acropolis, were those suspended over the columns in the front 
 of the temple. We know that thcj- were fastened to the Epistylia of the eastern front only. 
 The holes receiving the cramps still remain, and the whole of the area covered by the 
 circular surface of the shields is strongly marked in the marble. 
 
 t There are certainly traces of a nan-ow apertuie also in the west front, in the xpr^Tn:, or 
 plinth, supporting the semi-columns ; but it appears to have served some temporary pur- 
 pose, and to have been closed when the building was finished. It was without any archi- 
 tectural decoration, made, without any regard to symmetry, immediately under one of the 
 semi-columns. 
 
 3g 2
 
 412 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 
 
 If any doubts could reasonably exist as to which was really the 
 principal front of the Parthenon, the drawings by Nointell, of the 
 groups in the pediments, made previously to the Venetian bombard- 
 ment in 1687, would, by illustrating the observations of Pausanias, be 
 sufficient to dispel them. These drawings, although taken from a 
 disadvantageous and distant point of view, convey a tolerable idea of 
 the whole composition. In some particulars they are erroneous, but 
 the general forms are verified by such of the statues as escaped total 
 destruction during the siege of Athens, which took place about fifteen 
 years after the visit of Nointell. 
 
 The two principals in the contest represented in the western pedi- 
 ment, are obviously Neptune and Minerva ; the latter is identified 
 by the aegis, which, in one of the drawings alluded to, is decidedly 
 marked : a fragment of it was recently found in digging below the 
 steps of this front. The figure of Neptune was long regarded by 
 the early writers on the subject of the Athenian temples, who sup- 
 posed the west end to be the iu-foa-Sev, as representing Jupiter. 
 Where Wheler supposes the eagle of Jove to have been between the 
 legs of this figure, there was, in fact, the trunk of the olive produced 
 by Minerva in the contention * : a large fragment of it with the feet 
 of the figure, considerably worn by time and accident, is preserved in 
 the British Museum, f The action of Neptune, in opposition to the 
 quiescent Jupiter, in bus reliefs representing the birth of JMinerva J, 
 
 • In all speculations on the subject of the Athenian remains, we should do well to lay 
 wholly aside the glaring absurdities and blunders of Wheler and Spon. First, conjectures 
 on every subject not admitting of direct proof, are readily accepted: a dissent from them 
 must be supported by argument, which nine-tenths of mankind are too indolent to examine. 
 The hasty opinions of these travellers have involved the subject of Athenian antiquities in 
 difficulties. Chandler and Stuart suffered themselves to be misled by those who preceded 
 them. In their discussions, truth is perpetually struggling against the force of received 
 opinions. 
 
 f This fragment is usually viewed, not as it was placed in the pediment, but with the 
 inner side outward. It is not the only piece of the Elgin collection in which the finish all 
 around has led to a similar error of jiosition. 
 
 X Millin. Gal. Mjitholog. plates 36, 3;.
 
 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 413 
 
 pourtrays the whole energies of the Divinity called forth by the 
 nature of the contest. 
 
 The other groups, not so immediately recognizable, have given birth 
 to many opinions as to what personages of the heathen mythology 
 they were intended to represent. Names, indeed, have been given 
 to all ; but they are supplied from conjecture only, which in most in- 
 stances has not been happily exercised. 
 
 In the description of some of the temples of antiquity, such, for 
 instance, as that of Jupiter at Olympia, we cannot fail to be struck 
 with the architectural symmetry observed in the respective groups in 
 the pediments, in the right and left divisions of the tympanum. We 
 have 
 
 Pelops, opposed to Oenomaus, 
 
 Hippodamia, the wife of Pe- 1 f Sterope, the consort of 
 
 lops j I Oenomaus, 
 
 The charioteer of Pelops, 1 r JNlyrtillus, the charioteer 
 
 us, j I 
 
 supposed to be Sphaerus, j 1 of his competitor, 
 
 TT 1 r- Ti 1 f the car and four horses 
 
 Horses and car oi relops, -} ,. ^ 
 
 i oi Oenomaus, 
 
 Two grooms of Pelops, two grooms of his rival. 
 
 River Alpheus, the river Cladeus. 
 
 In the two pediments of the temple of Jupiter-Panhellenius at 
 iEgina, recently published in a periodical work *, we have similar 
 examples, of almost perfect equilibrium, preserved in the arrange- 
 ment of the groups. 
 
 How far this formality prevailed in the eastern pediment of the 
 Parthenon we have no means of deciding ; the groups remaining 
 appear to have been placed in something like conformity with this 
 practice. Thus we have the chariot and horses of the morn opposed 
 to the equipage of night : the reposing Bacchus f , or Theseus, as 
 
 • Journal of Science and tbe Arts, No. 12. 
 
 f It is an ascertained fact, that in the statues and bas-reliefs of the deities, the Grecian 
 sculptors frequently followed some one great and celebrated model, with little variation ot
 
 414 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON: 
 
 this statue has been denominated, and the adjoining group, balance 
 the two sitting figures and the reclining third in corresponding parts 
 of the pediment. 
 
 In the west front, this severity of composition seems to have been 
 in great measure abandoned ; nothing appears by way of pendant to 
 the figure borne in a chariot, which has hitherto been conjectured 
 to represent Victory conducting the car of Minerva ; unless Am- 
 phitrite, in a marine car drawn by dolphins, formerly occupied a 
 larger space on the right of Neptune than Nointell's drawing leads 
 us to imagine. The remaining groups, on the right and left of the 
 principal figures, are more nearly corresponding in attitude and po- 
 sition, making all necessary allowance for the inaccuracy of proportion 
 observable in the production of Nointell's draughtsman. 
 
 This abandonment of symmetrical arrangement in the composition 
 admits of a nearer approach to graphical representation, where greater 
 latitude was observed. The comparison, therefore, with an early paint- 
 ing, representing the same subject, may be supposed to offer greater 
 coincidences than would occur where the severities of art prevailed. 
 
 A vase of terra-cotta, found in pursuing some excavations immedi- 
 ately under the walls of Athens, was brought to England by 
 Mr. Graham, and is now in the possession of Dr. Edward Clarke of 
 Cambridge. The subject of the representation painted upon it was 
 one predominant in the thoughts of the Athenian people ; proud of the 
 patronage of Minerva, and inhabiting a spot consecrated to this 
 favorite deitv. The names being written over the several dramatis 
 personcc, afford an illustration of the personages employed in, or spec- 
 tators of, the fabled contention. The vase was broken into several 
 pieces, and some fragments are wanting, but enough remains for the 
 purposes of elucidation. * 
 
 attitude. A great coincidence of posture and action niaj' be remarked between the Theseus 
 of the Elgin collection, and the Bacchus on the frize of the monument of Lysicrates : 
 whence I venture to suppose the former to be intended for this divinity. 
 
 * The inscriptions were in letters of gold. A recent experiment to unite the several 
 pieces, filling the interior with piaistcr of Paris, caused the gilding to disappear, and almost
 
 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 415 
 
 In the centre of the painting are Neptune and Minerva ; the latter 
 has not recovered from the effort made in striking the earth, although 
 the olive has been produced. The obliquity of the stroke with the 
 spear, which the attitude of the goddess denotes, causes the olive to 
 appear in the rear of the monarch of the ocean, whose figure at rest 
 seems awaiting the issue. In the sculptured figures of the pediment, 
 the action of producing both prodigies is simultaneous. 
 
 To the right of Neptune appear Venus, with Peitho, the ordinary 
 attendant upon the goddess of desire. Ijove, easily recognised by his 
 youth and his wings, required no superscription. After Love comes 
 Pan, a deity highly reverenced by the Athenians, whose habitation they 
 pretended to be in the side of the acropolis, below the wall at the 
 north-west angle. He appears, not as he is commonly represented, 
 with the feet of a goat, but with gilded horns upon a youthful visage. 
 Cymo, one of the Nereids, who in that character cannot be considered 
 as out of place in such a composition, follows Pan. She appears to 
 be the harbinger of Apollo, denoting the appearance of the sun rising 
 from the bosom of the ocean, in allusion, perhaps, to the time of the 
 action. The absence of a fragment over the head of Apollo, renders 
 the superscription incomplete, but the initial A, succeeded, after a 
 proportionate interval, by the final OI, can leave no doubt of the 
 name they assisted in displaying. 
 
 Beyond Minerva, on the left, appears the head of a female, whom 
 the inscription above shows to have represented Psamathe, another 
 of the sea-nymphs. The animals beyond are either a representation 
 of Proteus, the son of Oceanus and Tethys, or, as some mythologists 
 imagine, the offspring of Neptune and Phenice, who, thus considered, 
 would be no inappropriate spectator of the scene ; or they are acces- 
 
 obliterateil all traces of the letters. I had, however, the good fortune to see the gold in all 
 its original brilliancy, and compared the inscriptions with the printed copy Dr. Clarke 
 had caused to be taken from them. No opportunity, therefore, was left for conjecture on 
 the subject of the inscriptions. The bosses and bits of the horses, the diadems, ear-rings, 
 and buckles of the females, and the wings of Love, were likewise gilt, before the experi- 
 ment above-mentioned was made.
 
 416 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 
 
 series to the group next in succession. In conformity with a practice 
 amongst Grecian artists, we have now an episode to the principal 
 action. The marriaije of Thetis and Peleus seems to have been the 
 object of the painter. Tiie lion and serpent, the forms assumed by 
 Thetis to elude the pursuit of Peleus, are represented in a bas relief*, 
 the subject of which is the successful termination of the suit of the 
 hero. The same subject was sculptured on one of the sides of the 
 celebrated coffer of Cypselus, described by Pausanias f , as an acces- 
 sorial group to the principal action which represented the marriage of 
 Jason and Medea. In this work of art, Thetis is accompanied by only 
 one of the two emblems which in the Greek vase form the group ; if 
 these be not introduced, as I have already observed, with a different 
 intention. 
 
 It has been imagined that the figure borne in the car, placed in the 
 western pediment of the Parthenon, was that of Apteral- Victory, con- 
 ducting the chariot of Minerva. | This conjecture, which is an 
 emendation by Visconti, of the original idea of Wheler and Spon, is 
 equally ill-founded. It is certain that in the acropolis there was a 
 statue of Victory represented without wings, but it is no less so that 
 the Athenian artists usuall}- distinguished Victory by the common 
 appendages ; witness a group in the frize above the pronaos of the 
 temple where the genius attendant on Minerva is thus represented. § 
 
 The fact however is, that Visconti has mistaken the Amphitrite of 
 
 • Gal. Mytholog. de Millin. pi. 133. 
 
 -j- risTroiiiTai 8s xai ©s'tij TrapSevos, XajU./3av=Tai Is airr^i n?jA=uj, xai azo TJj; %5ipo; T^j ©criSej 
 o^if. Pausaii. V. 1 8. 
 
 :j: This is one of the errors which has originated in the crude conceptions of Wheler, 
 who imagines the principal female figure to be Victory, leading the triumphal biga of 
 Minerva, the goddess herself occupying the chariot. When it was ascertained that the 
 principal figure was that of the protectress of Athens, the two statues were made to change 
 characters, as the easiest mode of obviating the difficulty which hail now arisen. 
 
 § For the same reason that the Athenians had a statue of Victory, without wings, says 
 Pausanias, the Lacedemonians possessed a statue of Enyalius, or Mars, with his feet 
 chained. The conceit is obvious. It does not follow that the statues of Mars were al- 
 ways thus represented in Laconia.
 
 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 417 
 
 Nointell's drawing for the figure formerly placed in the car. This 
 explanation, first oflTered by Quatremere de Quincy *, is undoubtedly 
 just. The statues having been finished all around, it would have been 
 difficult, without the aid of Nointell's drawings to determine which 
 side they presented when fixed in the pediment ; from this, however, 
 it is obvious, that the Aniphitrite, whose left arm is thrown back, and 
 whose garment separates over the left thigh, has been reversed, and 
 mistaken for the occupant of the chariot. . The drawing above men- 
 tioned represents this figure in an attitude nearly the reverse of the 
 other, the left arm being extended and draped. Although, in all the 
 recent discussions on the sculptures of the Parthenon, the chariot has 
 been usually considered as an accessory of Minerva, there is no 
 antient representation of the goddess of wisdom thus accompanied. 
 In the Iliad f , INIinerva goes forth to join the battle in the car of 
 Juno. She again appears conducting the chariot of Diomed, but 
 never in an equipage of her own. In the drawing of Nointell, the 
 figure inclines to the female form, and is attired in a flowing robe. 
 Such is the appearance of Apollo on the vase ; the puer aeternus of the 
 poet J, the Apollo puber of Pliny, the Apollo /SouTra*? of the Greek 
 Anthology ; and such that of the youthful competitors in the games, 
 represented upon the frize of the Parthenon, whose feminine forms 
 have led a learned antiquary into a similar error with regard to the 
 sex of the objects. § 
 
 ..-.According, therefore, to the illustration aflforded by the vase, we 
 must regard the group as the OXH AnOAAIlNOI, the equipage of 
 Apollo, conducted by the god of dav himself 
 
 The figure appearing behind the horses may probably be Pan ; for 
 
 * Letters to Canova, on the subject of the Elgin marbles. 
 
 t Iliad, V. 720. viii. 374. 
 
 X Ovid. Metam. iv. 17 . Puer insidiose. Mart. xiv. 17-. 
 
 § Visconti has again erred in mistaking one of these for a female figure of Victory. 
 Tlie tuft of a helmet becomes, in his eyes, the wings of the Genius. Stuart's Athens, ii. 
 pi. xviii. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 H
 
 4ia SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 
 
 it is unnecessary to identity that it is deficient in the usual character- 
 istics of this rural deity. The Egyptians, as well as the Athenians, 
 says Herodotus *, represented Pan with the head and legs of a goat, 
 not because they thought the representation correct, believing, as they 
 did, that in these respects he resembled the other deities. In the 
 vase, the head and the legs, so much of them as remains, are human ; 
 and on the medals of Olympia f the god is represented with all the 
 members of the beau ideal. 
 
 The group on the left beyond Apollo probably represented Venus, 
 attended by Peitho and Love. Beyond it, is that most absurdly sup- 
 posed by Wheler to be Hadrian and Sabina. Chandler, in attempting 
 to reconcile this anachronism, supposes them " intruders on the 
 original company ;" their heads, bethinks, were probably " placed 
 on trunks which before had other owners." In thus adopting the 
 absurd notions of pseudo-dilettanti, he is obliged to have recourse to 
 a supposition wholly at variance with the fact of both figures being 
 sculptured from single blocks. The female figure still retains its 
 coeval head ; the other was, for the first time, separated by the cupidity 
 of a Turk, in the expectation of selling it to some of the English lately 
 at Athens, who purchased every fragment with great avidity, and 
 thus contributed to the destruction of the monuments of Athenian 
 antiquity. Visconti supposes this group to be Vulcan and Venus ; 
 but the helmet of the male figure is incompatible with this conjec- 
 ture. The vase again affords us assistance in determining the person- 
 ages intended to be represented, and no circumstance militates 
 asainst our regarding them as Peleus and Thetis. The reclined 
 figure, filling up the angle of the pediment, is imagined, with sufficient 
 reason, to be the river Ilissus, by Visconti ; Avho supports his opinion 
 by reference to the description of the temple at Oljmpia, afforded by 
 Pausanias. His criticism, however, upon the action and anatomy of 
 the statue, is deficient in soundness. 
 
 ♦ Herodot. ii. 45. f Gal. Mylholog. i. 72.
 
 SCULPTURES OF THE PARTHENON. 419 
 
 The Other compartment of the pediment, on the right of the central 
 group, was occupied by marine deities, and partisans of Neptune. 
 Amphitrite, who appears in Nointell's drawing seated with a dolphin 
 at her feet, and accompanied by the Nereids, doubtless formed a 
 principal part of the composition. The sitting figure with two 
 children, hitherto imagined to be I^atonaand her infants, may repre- 
 sent Leda with the children of Tyndarus, Castor and Polhix, the 
 tutelary protectors of mariners. The other group may be Thalassa, 
 with Galene. * 
 
 It is to be observed that the order is reversed in the two designs. 
 In the pediment of the temple the supporters of Minerva are in the 
 rear of the goddess, and the companions of Neptune are behind him. 
 In the vase, the contrary mode seems to have been observed. 
 
 In attempting to elucidate the subject of the sculptures, I have 
 considered the propriety of ranging on the side of Minerva the 
 mythological personages more particularly venerated in the capital 
 of Attica ; and mentioned by Fausanias as possessing statues and 
 temples, or consecrated places, among the Athenians. In like man- 
 ner I have given names to the followers of Neptune, taken from the 
 Memorabilia of Corinth, recorded by the same writer ; for there this 
 deity presided. 
 
 • Toil Ylou'zilatvo; is si<Ttv i-!Titpyaiyfj.svoi tm ^aSpco xu) o» TuvlapsM TraiSsf, oVi 8^ o-oiT^st; xai 
 oJtoi v{u>v xcc) av^pwirwv rio't vxvTiK\ojj,svtuv, rx is ahka ivdxsiTxi raX^vij; iyci.Kft.oi xai fiaXairo-ijr. 
 Pausan. ii. c. I. 
 
 Sn •■2
 
 420 
 
 NOTICE OF SOME REMARKABLE ANTIQUITIES, 
 
 FOUND AMONG 
 
 THE RUINS OF SUSA, IN PERSIA. 
 
 " To see old Shuslian is neither unworthy our labour, nor out of the way. Shushan 
 is every where famousecl. It was one of the three royal palaces the Median monarchs 
 so much gloried in ; Babylon, Shushan, and Ecbatan. It is spoken of in the first chapter 
 of Hesther, that there Ahasuerus feasted Lis lieutenants over a hundred and twenty-seven 
 provinces, a hundred and eighty days, with great cost and triumph. Nchemiah also, and 
 Daniel, remember it to be in Elam, Persia; and notwithstanding the many mutilations 
 and miseries it had from avaricious tyrants, yet was it able to smile ujion Alexander, when 
 he extracted thence, to pay his soldiers and fill his bags, 50,000 talents in bullyon, and 
 nine millions in coyned gold." — Herbert's Travels, p. 220, 
 
 " The plain, in which once stood the city of Susa, is overspread in 
 various directions with heaps of earth, shaped like tumuli, and with 
 vast mounds ; one, in particular, far surpasses the rest in size, and is 
 called the Kala of Shush. To this spot I first directed my attention. 
 Beneath our feet, and on every side, we beheld fragments of earthen- 
 ware scattered in the greatest profusion ; these, I was told, are to be 
 traced for the distance of seven fursukhs, and are equally numerous. 
 Whether they be coeval with the existence of the city, so as to mark 
 its vastness, or rather its immense population, I cannot pretend to 
 decide. The natives say the ground has been thus strewed ever since 
 the destruction of the city ; and I believe the fragments to be of great 
 antiquity. 
 
 " The Kala is between three and four hundred feet high j its sides 
 ^re in many places nearly perpendicular, and the top of it is perhaps
 
 REMARKABLE MONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 421 
 
 three acres in extent. It would appear that a great part of the antient. 
 palace stood originally on an eminence, for the ground below the 
 high mound to the eastward seems to have been occupied by the 
 same building, or range of buildings ; and it is a large extent of 
 mounds, which now bears the name of the ' Kala of Shush.' The 
 rains, by washing down the sides, have exposed, in many of their 
 channels, broken walls and heaps of bricks and stones, in themselves 
 of little interest, but serving to prove this high mound a mass of 
 ruined buildings, and not a mere accumulation of natural earth, as 
 might be supposed from its general outward appearance. The same 
 profusion of broken earthenware, as I had noticed the day before, 
 also exists here ; but I could find no fragment sufficiently entire to 
 allow of my distinguishing the original shape of the vessel, or any 
 worthy of being carried away. Were it in the power of any one to 
 remain several days employed in excavating and digging among these 
 ruins, I am convinced the numerous and interesting treasures of an- 
 tiquity, which might be discovered, would richly reward the labour of 
 the search. The Arabs, however, have a great aversion from it, and 
 it was with difficulty that I persuaded them to undertake the little I 
 required ; a delay, moreover, in this neighbourhood, sufficient for 
 putting plans of this nature in execution, would be attended with 
 much danger, from the lawless and unsettled state of the country. 
 The Dervish, who dwells at the tomb of Daniel, situated about a 
 stone's throw to the north-west of the Kala, has removed some frag- 
 ments of antiquity to his own inclosures. But one stone, from its 
 great size and apparent want of ornament, he has left untouched. 
 This lies on the south-west side of the mound, not far from its foot, 
 and has probably fallen from above to its present situation. It is a large 
 slab of an inferior species of marble, with the form of an oblong 
 square, and is nine feet in length and four in breadth ; its surface is 
 perfectly plain, and has been polished. I was but ill satisfied with 
 the mere inspection of this stone as it was presented before me ; the 
 circumstance of its being single, and there not existing in any other 
 part of the mound remains of stone buildings to which it might have
 
 422 REMARKABLE MONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 
 
 belonged, induced me to conclude that on some part of it there was 
 sculpture ; and having accordingly, with the assistance of five or six 
 Arabs, cleared it from the earth, and turned it over, I discovered a 
 long and beautiful inscription in arrow-headed, or Persepolitan, cha- 
 racters, most of them an inch in length, and the whole of very ad- 
 mirable workmanship. There is no other ornament upon the stone, 
 or any sculpture, save this inscription, occupying one half of the side, 
 which had until this moment remained unexposed. The different 
 series of characters are each divided by a thin horizontal line, con- 
 tinued from one side of the stone to the other, a decisive proof that 
 the arrow-headed character was not read, as some have supposed, 
 only perpendicularly. The nature of this stone, or marble, is exactly 
 such as I have seen brought from the Bactiari mountains to Dezfoul, 
 for the purpose of building ; and I have little doubt but that the 
 stone I have been describing, as well as all other stones, whether 
 simply for building or sculpture, in the antient Susa, originally came 
 from these mountains. The distance is two days' journey, but there 
 is no spot nearer in the vicinity whence stones of any kind could be 
 procured. It is natural, therefore, to conclude that the greater part 
 of the city was not built of stone, and we may thus, in a great 
 measure, account for its present appearance, and for the few remains 
 which are now to be found. Strabo, when mentioning Susa, says 
 that, ' the building of this city, its palaces, walls and temples, was 
 similar to that of Babylon, of bricks and cement.' L. 15. 
 
 " In another quarter of this mound I discovered the fragment of a 
 fluted column, a part of which is buried in the earth, and I have little 
 doubt but that many more are thus concealed. I was finally driven 
 by the heat to the tomb of Daniel, or, as he is called in the East, 
 Danyall, which is but a few hundred feet from the Kala, situated in 
 a most beautiful spot, washed by a clear running stream, and shaded 
 by planes and other trees of ample foliage. The building is of Mo- 
 hammedan date, and inhabited by a solitary Dervish, who shows the 
 spot where the prophet is buried beneath a small and simple square 
 brick mausoleum, said to be, without probability, coeval with his death.
 
 REMARKABLE MONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 423 
 
 It has, however, neither date nor inscription to prove the truth or false- 
 hood of the Dervisli's assertion. The small river running at the foot 
 of this building, which is called the Bellarou, it has been said, flows 
 immediately over the prophet's tomb, and, from the transparency 
 of the water, his coffin was to be seen at the bottom ; but the Der- 
 vish and the natives whom I questioned, remember no tradition cor- 
 roborating such a fact; on the contrary, it has at all times been 
 customary with the people of the country to resort hither upon 
 certain days of the month, when they oifer up their prayers at the 
 tomb I have mentioned, in supplication to the prophet's shade ; and 
 by becoming his guests for the night, expect remission from all 
 present grievances, and an ensurance against those to come. I hap- 
 pened to be present on one of these very days ; an unfortunate circum- 
 stance, which prevented my remaining as long as I could have wished ; 
 for notwithstanding the pious motives of this large assemblage, it was 
 but too evident that they had views of another nature directed to- 
 wards my Yakdouns, which, my people assured me, together with all 
 I possessed, would be stolen during the night time. 
 
 " In an open court of the building, called Daniel's tomb, I saw three 
 stones of great beauty and interest, and the sight of them served to 
 repay me for the vexation of disappointment, and a considerable de- 
 gree of fatigue. They have been brought hither, as I have already 
 observed, from the great mound by the Dervish. Of the three, that 
 most deserving of attention is of no regular shape, and has never 
 been fashioned for the purpose of building ; it is a greenish black 
 species of Egyptian stone, a yard in length, but of an irregular thick- 
 ness, and the whole is finely polished ; on one side of it are five rows 
 of hieroglyphics, another has two rows of the same, and beneath 
 them an inscription in the Persepolitan character, continued to the 
 bottom ; the third side has been completely covered with an in- 
 scription in the same character, though now it is nearly defaced by 
 age. 
 
 " The hieroglyphics are beautifully worked in basso-relievo, and 
 the inscriptions are as exquisitely engraved.
 
 424 KEMARKABLE iMONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 
 
 « Of the five rows of hieroglyphics on the principal side, the first 
 seems to contain the sun, moon, and a star ; the second, a hare, a 
 dog, and a hawk ; the third row has at the two ends human figures ; 
 one bearing the head of a beast resembling a wolf, the other, except- 
 ing the tail of a beast which is attached to it, is perfectly a human 
 figure ; between the two, are three other signs ; the nature of which I 
 am unable to explain ; but they appear to be a belt, a club, and the 
 head of an arrow : the fifth has a star, and two birds, with some other 
 sign. The characters of the inscriptions are small, but very finely cut ; 
 and are more connected, and partake of more variety in their con- 
 nection, than those at Persepolis ; they are exactly such as I have 
 seen upon the bricks brought from the remains of antient Babylon." 
 
 From the preceding extract, which I have been permitted to tran- 
 scribe from a manuscript journal, it appears extremely probable that 
 very interesting discoveries might be made by any one who would be 
 permitted to carry on his researches in this part of Persia with leisure 
 and security. 
 
 It is impossible to fix the date of the curions monument to which 
 the following plate * refers ; but it appears to be connected with that 
 part of the Persian history which commences with the reign of Cam- 
 byses, and terminates with that of Darius Codomannus, when a great 
 intercourse subsisted between the nations of iEgypt and f Persia. 
 ^Egyptian captives and workmen were employed at that time in 
 
 * For an accurate drawing of the stone the perspective should have been sharper; but 
 it would have fore-shortened the subjects of the two sides. 
 
 -j- The conquest of j?i]gypt b}' the Persians, and its subsequent history from that time 
 to the present, afford a valuable illustration of a passage in Ezekiel, c. xxx. v. 13. "Ap- 
 yriVT^i Me/x(pscu5 Ix y^; AiyuTrrou mil eaovTai eti. Sep. Interpr. " Dux de terra iEgypti 
 non erit amplius." Vulg. From the Persians, the ^Egyptians were transferred into the 
 hands of the Greeks, the Romans, the Arabs, the Saracens, the Mamelukes, the Turks. 
 " Cette prophetic," says M. de Sainte Croix, in a remark communicated to Larcher, 
 « est d'une clarte, et d'une evidence a laquclle il n'est pas possible de se refuser."
 
 REMARKABLE MONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 425 
 
 building or ornamenting the palaces of Susa and Persepolis. * Al- 
 though the -^Egyptians were treated as a conquered people by the 
 Persians, and some insults may have been occasionally offered to the 
 objects of worship which the former considered as peculiarly sacred, 
 yet it is equally certain that some of the sovereigns of Persia respected 
 the gods of their subjects f ; and that the INIagi derived knowledge 
 of various kinds from their communication with them. ;{: In the in- 
 tercourse between the two nations, their sacred symbols and lan- 
 guage became familiar to each other : we observe on the Haematite 
 cylinders § found in Egypt, the Tau, the Scarabaeus volans, and Isiac 
 figures, accompanied by the arrow-headed character of Persia || ; the 
 same kind of letters, and a collection of hieroglyphics, are found on 
 the vase discovered in iEgypt, and described by Caylus. If An agate 
 seal brought from that country by Denon, and regarded by him as a 
 monument of the Persians under Cambyses, exhibits on one part the 
 Fish-god, or jMan-fish, and a human figure, unquestionably Egyp- 
 tian **, is sculptured on the side ; and learned men have observed a 
 resemblance between the names of some of the Persian and /Egyptian 
 deities, f "j" 
 
 It appears from a passage in Eusebius |:j:, that the Persians were ac- 
 customed to use a symbolical language : with them, as with the 
 
 • Tsj^viTaj f^ AiyvTTTOV TTocpaXajSovTuc xaTx<TX=6x(rai to. Trfpj/SoTjra fioi<r'iXsia, to. re Iv Uepae- 
 TaX»i, xal Ta Iv Soutroij. Diod. Sic, I. i. 155. Wess. 
 
 f Darius Hystaspis expressed great disapprobation of the impious conduct of his pre- 
 decessor Cambj'ses in /Egypt. Diotl. Sic. 1. I. Sec also Polyanus, Strat. 1. 7. where 
 mention is made of the reward offered by him for the discovery of a new Apis. _ 
 
 % Perhibent veteres philosophum quendam, quem Zoroastruni vocant, initiatum in 
 iEgypto, mj'steria iliiusgenlis in Persiam in'vexisse. Jablons. Pan. iEg. Prol. 1. v. 29. 
 
 § See Landseer, Archfeol. vol. xviii. 
 
 II See Caylus, Recueil, torn. iii. pp. 49, 50. torn. iv. p. 22. 
 
 % Tom. V. 79» ** Ouseley's Travels, p. 436". 
 
 ff Reland, de Vet. Ling. Per?, and Hyde de Rel. Pers. 91. 
 
 %% Euscb. Prfe. Ev. 1. i. c. 10. ZuipoairTpric H 6 Mayo; iv rp Upa o-uvayojyj ToJv n;p(rtxwv 
 ^rjO"! xaTa xiJiV 'O Zi ©=oj sVti xs^aXijV s^iev Upaxog' ovto; eVtiv o TTpiroc, ct^^aproc, uiiio;, 
 X. T. \. Tlie Abbe Fouchcr supposes that the words 'O Ss 0. e. x. s. i. being placed in a 
 parenthesis, may refer to a figure of the Deity placed at the head of a section or treatise, 
 containing the account of the different attributes, an enumeration of which follows in 
 Eusebius. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 I
 
 426 REMARKABLE MONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 
 
 Egyptians, the deity was typified by the head of the Hawk * ; and 
 they employed this hieroglyphical mode of description to a very late 
 period ; for, according to Libanius, quoted by the Abbe Foucher, 
 they represented their enemy, the Emperor Julian, by lightning, 
 or by a lion vomiting forth flames, j" 
 
 From the discovery of these letters at Susa, we derive a strong 
 argument in favour of an interpretation given by Munter :}: to a 
 passage of Herodotus (1. iv. c. 87.) The historian informs us, that 
 Darius caused to be engraved on one of two pillars erected at the 
 Bosphorus, Ao-o-Jfia; y^oe.jA.fji.xTa.. He conjectures that the inscription 
 mentioned by Herodotus was in aiTow-headed characters ; and since 
 we now find that they were used not only at Babylon, and at Per- 
 sepolis, but also at Susa, it appears probable that they were familiar 
 to all parts of the Assyrian empire ; and the explanation of Munter 
 may be, therefore, accepted as the true one. § 
 
 If some fortunate circumstances should enable future travellers in 
 Persia to procure any of the inscribed monuments of Susa, the acqui- 
 sition would be of great importance, as it might assist the researches 
 of those orientalists who have already directed their attention to the 
 examination of these characters. According to the opinion of JNIunter 
 and Grotefend, they should be read in a direction from left to right ; 
 Lichtenstein entertains a different opinion. Professor Heeren, in his 
 late work entitled " Ideen uber die Politik, &c." agrees with Grote- 
 fend, and makes some interesting remarks on the history and nature . 
 of this species of writing. 
 
 This forgery under the name of Zoroaster could have had little success, unless there 
 had been some reason for believing that the symbolical illustration mentioned in the pas- 
 sage from Eusebius had been adopted by that philosopher, or some of the early religious 
 instructors of Persia. 
 
 * " The figure of the sacred Hawk, under which semblance Divine Providence was 
 always depicted." Bryant, Ant. My. ii. 400. 
 
 ■»• Ac. des Inscr. vol.xxvii. p. 319. 
 
 \ Essai sur les Inscriptions Cuiiciformcs de Persepolis. An account of this work w 
 given in the Mag. Enc. torn. iii. 1803, by S. de Sacy. 
 
 § I have been informed by the Earl of Aberdeen, that Mr. Payne Knight proposed a 
 similar interpretation of this passage many years ago to him.
 
 STDME D1SC9VERSD AT SUSA REPRiESEMTlHS- HIEROOLYPHJC FIGURES 
 
 AND THE AN71EMT CUNEIFORM CHARACTEf^S OF FEK51A. 
 
 £n-trttf^i hii .i'l.t" H'lH 
 
 l.-HihiH f'lif'fish,-,/ Uttif w'^/.^f.'l.fnf l.trnfman .ffurj^t .AW.r Ihnif A'- Hrx.it n . /'.iteritosM Hot*-.
 
 REMARKABLE MONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 427 
 
 " Independently of the elucidations of Persian antiquities which 
 these monuments promise, they lead us one step farther into the 
 history of the most important of all human inventions, after that of 
 language ; viz. the origin of alphabetical writing. The cuneiform 
 character is so simple in its component parts, that it has all the 
 appearance of being a primeval alphabet ; it consists only of two 
 elements, the wedge and the rectangle ; and with fewer than these 
 it is impossible that an alphabet should be formed. To this, and to 
 the total want of curves, we must attribute the apparently superfluous 
 number of strokes of which some of the letters are composed. It is 
 also quite clear, from the nature of this character, that it has not 
 originated from picture-writing. An alphabet which had been de- 
 rived from picture-writing, if such a derivation be conceivable, would 
 bear traces of that variety by which this method of representing ideas 
 is characterized. It has also been shewn by Grotefend that it is not 
 syllabic. What, then, remains but to suppose that it was from its 
 first origin alphabetic, though it may have undergone various modifi- 
 cations and improvements ? The very multiplicity and superfluity 
 of its strokes seems to shew that it has been formed by a laborious 
 analysis of sound, and with a desire to allow not even a single aspir- 
 ation to escape without being represented. It appears to be of 
 Asiatic origin ; and it is so different not only from the hieroglj'phic 
 of Egypt, but also from the alphabetical character as we find it on 
 the Rosetta stone, as to repel the idea of a common origin. The 
 discoveries which have already been made at Babylon and Persepolis 
 prove that it was diffiiscd over a great part of Upper Asia, and adopted 
 by different nations, who formed new letters, but still derived from 
 the same radical elements of the wedge and the rectangle. As it is 
 found in three different states on the walls of Persepolis, its origin 
 must ascend far beyond the time of the Persian monarchy; and, 
 since it can scarcely be doubted that the first and simplest of them is 
 an alphabet of the Zendic language, we are naturally led to seek for 
 its native country in Media, where this language and the doctrine of 
 Zoroaster prevailed. On the other hand, the circumstance that the 
 
 3 I '2
 
 428 REMARKABLE MONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 
 
 cuneiform letters are found in the Babylonian inscriptions would seem 
 to point to an Aramaean origin." * — Editor. 
 
 Translation of Part of a Persian Manuscn2:)t relating to the Tomb of 
 Daniel at Susa, mentioned in the j}receding Journal, p. 422. 
 
 I am indebted to Sir William Ouselej for the following version 
 from a Persian iNIS., which he bas communicated in a letter to 
 me. It contains some notice of the traditions preserved by the 
 Arabic writers, relating to the prophet and his sepulchre. " The ex- 
 tract," he observes, " may appear of unreasonable length ; yet it is 
 necessary to prefix a few lines." 
 
 In the eighteenth year of the JVIuhammedan era, (of Christ 640,) 
 whilst Omar held the Khalifat, an Arabian army under Abu Musa 
 Alashaari invaded the Persian province of Khuzistan, Or Susiana, 
 In the antient capital Susa, (latterly called Siis, or Shush,) that 
 General found, besides considerable treasures of various kinds, an ex- 
 traordinary sepulchral monument, which, accordino; to local tradition, 
 contained the prophet Daniel's body. Of this discovery the most 
 circumstantial account is given by Abu Muhammed Ahmed, whose 
 father, Aasim of Kiifah, flourished within so short a time after the 
 conquest of Susiana, that he might, when young, have conversed 
 with veteran warriors, whose valour had contributed to that event ; 
 for he died in the year 117, (A. D. 735). as we learn from Casiri, 
 (Biblioth. Arab-Hisp. Escurial. vol. i. p. 504.) Ebn Aasim's " Book 
 of Victories," in the original Arabic, is a work extremely rare ; but 
 it was translated into Persian by Ahmed al Mastowfi, about the year 
 1200, and copies in this language are sufficiently numerous. From 
 the best of three JNISS. preserved in my own collection, I shall here 
 extract what relates to the tomb of Daniel, f 
 
 * This translation from Heercn is given in the Appendix to the M. Review, vol. Ixxxv. 
 
 f In some catalogues of Oriental MSS. we find the Book of Victories described as the 
 Tarikh or Chronicle of Aasim al Kufis, and two or three writers have quoted it as his 
 work. On a late occasion (Travels, vol. i. p. 422.) 1 myself referred to it as such ; but 
 subsequent inquiry has convinced me that his sou was the author. — O.
 
 REMARKABLE MONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 429 
 
 Our author informs us that Abu Miisa, having pillaged the territory 
 of Ahwaz, proceeded to Sus, where lie slew the governor, a Persian 
 prince, named Shapur, the son of Azermahan. 
 
 " Then, continues the historian, he entered the castle and palace of 
 that prince, and seized all the treasures deposited there in different 
 places, until he came to a certain chamber, of which the door was 
 strongly fastened, a leaden seal being affixed to the lock. Abii Miisa 
 inquired from the people of Sus what precious article was guarded with 
 such care in this chamber ; they assured him, that he would not regard 
 it as a desirable object of plunder ; but his curiosity was excited, and he 
 caused the lock to be broken and the door opened. In the chamber he 
 beheld a stone of considerable dimensions, hollowed into the form of a 
 coffin ; and in this the body of a dead man, wrapped in a shroud or 
 winding-sheet of gold brocade. The head was uncovered ; Abu Musa 
 and his attendants were astonished ; for, having measured the nose, 
 they found that, proportionably, this dead personage must have far 
 exceeded in stature the common race of men. The people now in- 
 formed Abu Musa that this was the body of an eminent sage who 
 formerly resided in Irak, (Chaldaea or Babylonia,) and that whenever 
 the want of rain occasioned a famine or scarcity, the inhabitants ap- 
 plied to this holy man, and, tlu-ough the efficacy of his prayers, ob- 
 tained copious showers from heaven. It happened once that Sus 
 likewise suffered from excessive drought ; and the people in distress 
 requested that their neighbours would allow this venerable personage 
 to reside a few days among them, expecting to derive the blessing of 
 rain from his intercession with the Ahnighty ; but the Irakians would 
 not grant this favour. Fifty men were then deputed by the people 
 of Sus, who again petitioned the ruler of Irak, saying, ' Let the holy 
 personage visit our country, and do thou detain the fifty men until 
 his return.' These terms were accepted, and the holy personage 
 came to S6s, where, through the influence of his prayers, rain fell 
 abundantly, and saved the land from famine ; but the inhabitants 
 would not permit him to return, and the fifty men were detained as 
 hostages in Irak : at length he died. Such, said those who accom-
 
 430 
 
 REMARKABLE MONUMENTS AT SUSA IN PERSIA. 
 
 panied Abii ]\I6sa, is the history of this dead man. The Arabian 
 general then inquired by what name so extraordinary a person had 
 been known amongst them ; they repHed, ' The people of Irak called 
 him Daniiil Hakim, or Daniel the sage.' 
 
 " After this, Abu JMusa remained some time at Si'is, and dispatched 
 to Omar, the Commander of the Faithful, an account of all his con- 
 quests in Khuzistan, and of the various treasures which had fallen 
 into his possession ; he related also the discovery of Daniel's body. 
 When Omar received this account, he demanded from his chief 
 officers some information respecting Daniel, but all were silent except 
 Ali, on whom be the blessing of God ! He declared that Daniel had 
 been a prophet, though not of the highest order ; that in ages long 
 past he dwelt with Bakhtnasser (Nebuchadnezzar), and the kings who 
 succeeded him ; and Ali related the whole history of Daniel, from 
 the beginning to the end, with all the circumstances of his death. 
 Omar then, by the advice of Ali, caused a letter to be written, direct- 
 ing that Abu Musa should remove, with due respect and religious 
 reverence, the body of Daniel to some place where the people of 
 S<as could no longer enjoy the possession of it. Abu Musa immedi- 
 ately on receipt of this order obliged the people of Sus to turn the 
 stream which supplied their city with water from its natural course ; 
 then he brought forth the body of Daniel, and having wrapped another 
 shroud over the gold brocade above described, he commanded that a 
 grave should be made in the dry channel of the river, and therein 
 he deposited the prophet's venerable remains ; the grave was then 
 firmly secured, and covered with stones of considerable size ; the 
 river was restored to its former channel, and the waters of Sus now 
 flow over the body of Daniel." 
 
 Such is the extract from Ebn Aasim's MS. Chronicle, or Tarikh, 
 the " Book of Victories." My three copies, fairly written, present 
 various readings in many places, but none throughout this story of 
 Daniel that materially affect the sense. 
 
 I am, dear Sir, &c &c. 
 
 W. OuSELEY/
 
 Vroy THK LEFT THKKK 
 
 
 0>- THK KDKEIIBAD 
 
 ?\mi 
 
 UPON THE ;\lj.SK 
 
 t 
 
 \'Vuy THK RIC.Il'l' CllKKK 
 
 
 VrON THE .LKKT .S]DE OF THE BREAST 
 
 I? ^Si 
 
 ITPO>: THK KlUillT .SOJE OF THK BREA.ST 
 
 V 
 
 ^^'^*}^'i\ 
 
 
 mO^DBlLA'MS AxTJj CHAJiACTlElRS OS^ A'BTJST 01 1313. 
 
 /.iuuh'n. /'u/'/is/m/ A/,i^ lO '^ t,S/;). hi/ /..>n./m,i/t ffuist . hW.< . /htnf -** finmn /',r/,t/fSfi-f /'*«
 
 431 
 
 FIGURES ON A SUPPOSED HEAD OF ISIS. 
 
 The original of the annexed plate was found among the papers of the 
 late Mr. Davison ; and was sent to the engraver with the expectation 
 that some referenec to it, or explanation of its subject, might occur 
 among the manuscripts of that gentleman. This, however, has not 
 been the case ; and some apology therefore is due to the reader for 
 the insertion of it. 
 
 I have reason to believe that the characters are those which were 
 found on a bust supposed to represent the head of Isis. A contro- 
 versy about the year 1761 * was excited respecting the genuineness 
 of this head. JNIr. Needham, who warmly supported the hypothesis 
 respecting the affinity and intercourse which antiently prevailed be- 
 tween iEgypt and China, found in it an argument to strengthen his 
 own opinion ; considering the bust as ^Egyptian ; and the characters 
 as Chinese. On the other hand, it was contended, that the whole 
 was the work of some impostor, De Pauw alludes to this bust in his 
 Preliminary Discourse to his Essay on the Egyptians and Chinese, 
 and properly condemns the practice of such frauds, " which," he says, 
 " may one day render the most authentic monuments suspicious." 
 I suppose it to be the same to which Sir W. Jones also refers in 
 the following passage in the Asiatic Researches, ii. 373. " As to 
 the table and bust of Isis, they seem to be given up as modern 
 forgeries ; the fabricator of the letters, if they were really fabricated 
 in Europe, was uncommonly happy, since two or three of them \ are 
 exactly the same with those on a metal pillar yet standing in the 
 north of India." 
 
 * See Monthly Review, vol. xxix. p. 34. The bust was preserved at Turin, 
 f Among the figures upon the left side of the breast, one of the forms of the first letter 
 in the Phoenician alphabet is represented twice.
 
 432 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 MEDICINAL AND ECONOMICAL USES OF CERTAIN PLANTS 
 
 SOLD IN THE BAZAR, AND HERB-STALLS AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 [FnOM SIBTHOSFS MSS.] 
 
 1. FuMARiA officinalis, kxttviu. Tlie herb is pounded ; and an in- 
 fusion is made of it, whicli is drank for exanthematous complaints, 
 and a prurient itching of the skin. 
 
 2. Teucrium chamaedrys, ;^ajw,a'i5pu?. A cataplasm of the pounded 
 herb is applied to the rectum for fistula in ano ; an infusion of it is 
 drank for the same complaint. 
 
 3. Teucrium polium ; drank in infusion for exanthematous dis- 
 orders. 
 
 4. Sambucus ebulus : the leaves are employed in cataplasms, in 
 swelling of the joints. 
 
 5. Plantago major, Tre-jTolvsufov : applied externally as a vulnerary to 
 wounds. 
 
 6. Panicum dactylon, ccyfix^cx. : the decoction of the root is much 
 used as a diuretic. 
 
 7. Cichorium endivia, '^aStna : a decoction made of the inside of 
 the root is used in bilious fevers, as a diuretic and deobstruent. 
 
 8. Lavendula stoechas : an infusion of it is drank for catarrhs and 
 head-aches. 
 
 9. Verbascum sinuatum, (pxof^o : the Turks make a bath of the seeds 
 and leaves of this plant, then sit over it, for disorders of the rectum. 
 
 10. Matricaria suaveolens, %ajoco/^iAoi/ : an infusion of the flowers is 
 drank in bilious and nervous fevers ; it is made use of also in deafness 
 to syringe the ears.
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 433 
 
 11. Peucedanum officinale, [/.syccfSoTuvo : the root of this plant is ap- 
 phed in cataplasms to the heads of new-born infants, as a preservative 
 against hydrocephalous and strumous swellings of the neck. 
 
 12. Convallaria polygonatum : this root is given to child-bearing 
 women, to produce a large secretion of milk. 
 
 13. Artemisia pontica, d^lv^to : taken in infusion for fevers, with 
 Gentiana centaurium ; also in the melancholy, called by the Turks 
 Sefdah. 
 
 14. Momordica elaterium, Tro^po dyydufio : the fruit powdered is 
 drank in infusion for the jaundice, or snuffed up the nose. 
 
 15. Scilla maritima, uo-kiXXx : made into paste with honey for the 
 asthma, or applied in cataplasms to the joints affected with rheumatic 
 pains. 
 
 16. Iris , Kfivo: small pieces are cut and applied like pease to 
 
 issues. 
 
 17. Arum maculatum, Spaxovno : the root, powdered with sugar, is 
 taken as a medicine in bilious complaints. 
 
 18. Ruta graveolens, aVrjVai'oi' : is externally applied in rheumatic 
 pains to the joints, feet, and loins. 
 
 19. Equisetum fluviatile; taken in infusion for giddiness of the 
 head ; called in Greek aXoyoupa. 
 
 20. Cistus incanus, xd.Sa.vo : infused in the baths to give them a 
 fragrant odour. 
 
 21. Tamarix gallica ; drank in infusion for head-aches and pains of 
 the stomach. 
 
 22. Nymphaea lutea, voJjpap : a sherbet made of it is drank in colds, 
 as refreshing : the odour or smell is supposed to cure the megrim. 
 
 23. Asplenium scolopendrium : the infusion of it is drank in pains 
 of the body. 
 
 24. Rumex hydrolapathus, xd.7ra.Q0 : the root, powdered with milk, 
 is drank for the itch : horses are made to swallow the seeds, to cure 
 them of coughs. 
 
 25. Erysimum Barbarea ; is given, in infusion in milk, for depurat- 
 
 VOL. II. 3 K
 
 4J4 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ing the blood : Sisymbrium nasturtium aquaticum, u7po)ca'f^a^<3, and 
 Veronica Beccabunga, are used for the same purpose. 
 
 26. Salvia officinalis ; taken in infusion for slow fevers, and as a 
 gargle tor washing the mouth in the tooth-ache. 
 
 27. jNlelissa Bvzantia : taken in infusion in slow fevers and the 
 melancholy, called Sefdah. 
 
 28. Papaver somniferura, [^xkuv. the heads bruised are drank in 
 decoction for coughs. 
 
 29. Hyoscyamus albus, voa-Krjuf^og : the fumes of the seeds thrown 
 on hot coals are taken into the mouth to cure the tooth-ache. * 
 
 30. Gnaphalium stoechas ; taken in infusion for the jaundice. 
 
 .Si. Cannabis sativa; boiled with oil serves as a liniment to remove 
 rheumatic pains. Nerium oleander is used for the same purpose. 
 
 32. Malva officinalis, jMoXo%a f : in the disease of fistula in ano, 
 leeches being first applied, a bath is made of these plants, and the 
 patient sits over it to receive the steam. 
 
 33. Tilia alba, (pXafiov^mt'. the flowers are made into a conserve 
 called majiun, and an infusion of the leaves is drank as a purifier of 
 the blood. 
 
 34. Santolina anthemoides : the flower is made into a conserve, 
 and the plant drank in infusion to cure strumous disorders of the 
 breast. 
 
 35. Eryngium campestre : the roots of this plant, as well as Statice 
 
 * " I beg leave," says Sir Hans Sloane, " to give an instance of the great virtues of 
 henbane seeds in the tooth-ache. A person, tormented with this pain, had an empiric 
 recommended to him : the quacii conveyed the smoke of burning henbane seeds, by means 
 of a funnel, into the hollow toothj and thereby removed the pain ; but at the same time 
 there dropped some maggots from the tooth, as he pretended, into a pail of water, placed 
 underneath for that purpose. One of these I sent to Mr. Lewenhoek, who found it to 
 be entirely like those bred in rotten cheese. Though the smoke of the henbane seeds 
 cured the tooth-ache, it is highly probable the maggots had been conveyed thitiier, and 
 let drop into the water by some slight of hand." The same empiricism is practised now 
 in the Levant, as well as in this country. — E. 
 
 f MoXo;^»j pro MaXax>i dixisse Athenaeum observat Eustathius Od. a. 1106. V. Du C. 
 in V. — E.
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 435 
 
 limonium, are boiled, and the decoction of them drank in the bloody 
 flux. 
 
 36. Ligustrum vulgare ; taken in infusion for epileptic fits. 
 
 37. Typha major : the cottony substance is applied to burns with 
 oil of Sesamum. 
 
 38. Datura stramonium : a drachm of the seed taken, occasions 
 sreat giddiness of the head. 
 
 Birds of Zante. 
 
 The same circumstance, the want of woods and lofty mountains, 
 which explain the reason why so few of the Feres abounding in the 
 neighbouring continent of Greece are to be found in Zante, applies also 
 to the birds of prey ; and the want of rivers and permanent lakes con- 
 siderably diminishes the number of aquatic fowls. Zante furnishes a 
 breeding-place to a very small number of the species, which are seen 
 in the course of their migration to make this their temporary resting- 
 place. The periods of the greater migrations, such as that of the 
 turtle-doves, are in April and September. JMost of the birds that 
 visit Zante during the winter, come at uncertain times, influenced by 
 /Seasons and weather. 
 
 A considerable number of the Falcon tribe pass over from the 
 Morea in October, as the F. Pygargus, Cyanus, Yerakhia, Candidus, 
 Pelligri, Turdivorus, and Barbatus : the two last stop only a few days. 
 The Falco Tinnunculus, and the F. Lucaina, which is probably the 
 Buzzard, and Peregrinus, stay here all the year, and breed in the rocks 
 near the sea. 
 
 Of the Vultur, the V. Percnopterus is occasionally seen. Of the 
 birds of prey that fly by night, a small number of the Great horned 
 Owl arrive in the middleof August, and retire in October: the Lesser 
 horned Owl, called here auToy.ouXa, is seen passing at the same period. 
 This species is eaten, and esteemed a delicacy ; a circumstance which 
 is mentioned by Aristotle. The Strix Aluco, and Passerina, reside 
 throughout the year and breed here : the former is rarely seen. 
 
 3k 2
 
 436 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 The three sorts of Butcher birds arrive in May, breed here, and 
 retire in September. 
 
 Zante is very poor in the order of Picas. Of the Crow tribe, the 
 noisy Daw, and the almost domestic Pie, are wanting. Neither the 
 Carrion nor the hooded Crow annoy the flocks ; the only species that 
 I observed here was the Raven, which breeds in the rocks, and re- 
 mains throughout the year. 
 
 The Roller, the Bee Eater, the Oriole, the Cuckow, the Hoopoe, 
 are summer birds of passage : the four first arrive with the Turtle- 
 Doves ; the Hoopoe a fortnight before them. 
 
 The Kingfisher is permanent, and is seen flying throughout the 
 year along the sea-shore. 
 
 The island is principally supplied with domestic fowls from the 
 Morea: the Turkies, running in the olive-grounds, become exceed- 
 ingly fat, and acquire an excellent flavour from the fruit which they 
 pick up. They are sold at six piastres each : a couple of fowls for 
 one piastre. 
 
 The persecutions of numerous sportsmen have entirely extirpated 
 the breed of Partridges : the red-legged species is found in Cepha- 
 lonia, and brought over to Zante, and kept in cages to sing, or rather 
 call. 
 
 Quails are found through the summer, and some winter here ; as I 
 observed them in the sedges, near the sea-coast, in January. 
 
 Of the Pigeons, a few Stock Doves are kept domesticated : wild 
 Stock Doves breed in the rocks on the coast ; but the greater number 
 arrive in October, spread themselves over the vallies, and retire in 
 the spring. Together with the Stock Doves, great flights of Wood- 
 Pigeons are seen. The Turtle-Doves arrive the beginning of April, 
 and retire early in May ; on their coming to the island they feed on 
 the seed of the Charlock, or Lapssina, and are purged by it, and soon 
 become exceedingly poor. The return of these birds is in August ; 
 but their flocks are then considerably diminished. They may be con- 
 sidered as the first object of pursuit to the Zantiote sportsmen ; great
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 437 
 
 numbers are shot, and several taken in snares : when fat, they are 
 preserved as delicacies. 
 
 Of the Larks, the Crested Lark remains throughout the year, and 
 breeds here ; the Calandra, the Sky-Lark, Tree-Lark, arrive in Oc- 
 tober, fly in flocks during the winter-season, retiring in the spring. 
 The Tit-Lark single, or in small flocks, is seen in wet places in the 
 valley throughout the winter. 
 
 The Starling is seen in small flocks during the winter, arriving and 
 retiring with the Lapwing. 
 
 Of the Thrushes, the Song-Thrush and Blackbird arrive in Oc- 
 tober, and retire early in the spring, in INIarch : the Solitary Sparrow 
 is confined to the mountains where it breeds and resides throuo-hout 
 the year ; and the Rock-Thrush appears in the autumn. 
 
 Of the Grosbeaks, the Hawfinch and Green-finch migrate here 
 during the winter, and retire in April. Of the Buntings, the com- 
 mon Bunting stays through the year, and breeds here ; the Ortolan 
 arrives the latter end of April, breeds, and retires the beginning of 
 June. 
 
 Of the Finches, the House- Sparrow, Goldfinch, and Linnet, are 
 permanent : the Chaffinch, which is the most frequent bird in the 
 island, arrives in October, stays the winter, and leaves the island in 
 April. 
 
 The slender-billed birds which migrate are very numerous ; the 
 white and yellow Wagtails arrive in October, and stay the winter, re- 
 tiring in April : they are seen near the town, and in low plashy 
 grounds. The Nightingale arrives in March, is heard part of the 
 summer, and departs in August. The common Wren is seen hop- 
 ping in the olive-grounds and gardens, throughout the year. The 
 Willow- Wren migrates durino- the winter months ; at the same 
 season the Redbreast appears, retiring in the spring ; and with it 
 migrates the Katralouthra, the Atricapilla, and the Alessandros. 
 The Wheat-ear, the Stone-chatter, the Bramble-chatter, and the Sy- 
 comoura are seen in the summer-months, and retire in autumn. 
 The Beccafico arrives in August, during the season of the figs, and
 
 438 
 
 Natural history. 
 
 stays a short time : a fortnight before its arrival, the Grape-eater is 
 seen, retiring at the same time. The Wiiinchat stays the winter, and 
 departs in the spring. 
 
 The Great Titmouse, which I saw during the winter-months, I sus- 
 pect also remains through the year, and breeds here, as well as the 
 Black Titmouse, Kov(pccyi3uvi. The Pratincola is seen in its passage in 
 the month of April. Of the Swallows, the Swift, the JNIartin, and the 
 common Swallow arrive in March, and retire before September. The 
 Hirundo rupestris is an exception to the Swallow tribe, and is seen 
 during the winter-months. I observed it in December and January 
 flvincr under the walls of the citadel, and the outskirts of the town. 
 
 The Goat-sucker is seen in the summer, and sometimes in the 
 winter ; and the popular report remains of its milking the goats. 
 
 Of the GralLne, from the scarcity of water few are seen, but in their 
 passage. The great species of Crane, called Troumbanos, which is 
 frequent in the lakes of the Morea, may be occasionally noticed. I 
 observed also, in the month of January, the grey Heron. The Stork 
 is rarely seen ; the white and purple Heron, and the Bittern, are ob- 
 served in the month of April, on their passage. Occasional flights of 
 Woodcocks are found from the beo;innin<j; of October to the middle of 
 February. During the winter, the common Snipe, and Jack- Snipe, 
 are seen in the vallies. The Curlew, which retires in February, is 
 observed among the rushes, in the plashy plains ; but none of these 
 birds breed here. 
 
 The Lapwing arrives the beginning of November, and leaves the 
 island before March. The Stone Curlew is heard piping in the fields 
 in the summer-months, and may be seen sometimes in the winter. 
 The Land-Rail is very rare ; an old sportsman assured me he had 
 never seen but one : the Water-Rail is more frequent, and is some- 
 times observed in the winter-months. 
 
 Yaltarida, Neropouli, Kousoracos, are species of Grallas that visit 
 Zante during the winter. The KoKeXXx arrives in the middle of 
 March, and retires the middle of April. 
 
 Of the Anseres, only the Wild Duck breeds here. The Wild Swan
 
 ATUOS. .": 439 
 
 is an occasional visitant, as is also the Wild Goose, the Teal, and 
 Wigeon : all these birds are seen in the course of the winter. 
 
 The Corvorant and Pelican are sometimes observed swimmins off 
 the coast ; and the common black and white Gulls flying along the 
 shore. The greater Tern is seen sometimes flying near the coast, 
 following the fishing net. 
 
 Additional Remarks on some Parts of the Natural History of Mount 
 AtJios, and the Island of Zante. 
 
 The Caloyers of Mount Athos not eating flesh, very few domestic 
 animals are kept by them. Bullocks, of an iron-grey colour, I ob- 
 served feeding in the vales, and browsing on the shrubs : they were 
 kept only to fatten, as objects of profit. A lamb was purchased with 
 some difficulty at Caryes for five piastres, an exorbitant price, when 
 compared with that for which one might have been procured at 
 Lemnos. Dogs were kept as guards to the Kellia and monasteries. 
 The Caloyers seemed fond of cats, but they were all of the male 
 kind : these, with a few horses, mules, and asses, were the domestic 
 quadrupeds of Athos : of the wild, I was told there were no bears or 
 wolves. I procured the following list, though an imperfect one : 
 
 AXovTTcv * Canis vulpes 
 
 EXacipi Cervus elaphus 
 
 Zot^KKCi Cervus Capreolus 
 
 'AyptoKKT^iKi Capra 
 
 Ayficycu^ov^ovyi Sus Aper ferus 
 
 ZKuuT^ox,oi§og f Erinaceus Europeeus 
 
 • The word in this form, as well as AXettoO, is found in Du Cange. But Coray shews 
 that it ought to be written 'AXcutoS, and not 'Axswou. I observe the word AKwvo; in tlie 
 Brevis Historia Aniraalium, p. 5. edited by Matiiaei, at Moscow, 1811, at the expense of 
 the Zosimades; but it is used as early as the second century of the Christian sera, by Ig- 
 natius. See Coray, AxoXouS- prefixed to the Parallel Lives of Plutarch, part the third. — E. 
 
 t Properly Axavflo^oi/jof, and by the barbarous change of S into t;, AaxavTir 'xo'f "f . 
 Coray. t
 
 440 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 KovvdSt 
 
 Aayoq 
 
 AypioyuTTog 
 
 AyoiOcrvvtraTFt 
 
 ^leles taxus 
 Mustek Martes 
 Lepus timidiis 
 Felis cattus 
 
 Mus domestica. 
 
 I was favoured with the following list of fishes from the Caloyers. 
 
 AvKvoi; 
 Euyyavog 
 
 'Lvva.y^tdoc, 
 AiSivocpi 
 
 Xotpyo 
 
 MiXavovai 
 "L-rroepo 
 
 BouTTa 
 
 <^ocyypog 
 Po(pog 
 
 Aov^ot^i 
 "HX<o 
 
 X^/(rTc'4'a§o 
 
 <^pnT(rx 
 
 'Loi^SiXXot, 
 
 ToiyXx 
 
 Bapfiovvi 
 
 ] 
 
 Uranoscopus scaber 
 Esox belone 
 Sparus 
 Sparus dentex 
 
 f Sparus 
 
 Sparus sargus 
 Sp. melanurus 
 Sp. annularis 
 Sp. salpa 
 Sp. Boupa 
 Sp. mormyrus 
 Sp. auratus 
 Sp. pagrus 
 Sp. orphus 
 Perca marina 
 Per. Louphari 
 Labrus lulis 
 Zeus faber 
 Clupea alosa 
 
 ■ sardella 
 
 Scomber colias 
 Sc. trachurus 
 
 Mullus barbatus
 
 ATHOS. 
 
 441 
 
 Ke-pscXo 
 
 ]\lugil cephalus 
 
 
 Atherina hepsetus 
 
 Ei^io 
 
 Xiphias gladius 
 
 M.ovyypt 
 
 ]VIur£ena conger 
 
 AfiocKivx 
 
 Trachurus draco 
 
 LKO^TTiVOi 
 
 Scorpoena porcus 
 
 Xavvt 
 
 Labrus Chanus 
 
 BuX^vtx. 
 
 
 Scomber thynnus 
 
 n£Xajt*<T(f 
 
 Sc. Pelamitis 
 
 XBXlCUv6^/Ol^0 
 
 Trigla Gurnardus 
 
 ^£Te^vo^^lx^o 
 
 Trigla hirundo 
 
 ToQio 
 
 Gobius 
 
 1,/J.VfiVO!. 
 
 JMurasna Helena 
 
 VuTTU 
 
 Squalus mustela 
 
 ExuXo^^a^o 
 
 Squalus catulus. 
 
 EOUTTICC 
 
 KoiXafiapiM 
 
 'Aa-Tuxog 
 
 Ka/3oVfO 
 Tlocyzv^i 
 
 0(Trptotx 
 YliTaXidx 
 
 A^t(sccaa 
 
 KoKKtXt 
 
 MoUusca, cj-c. 
 J- Sepia octopodia 
 
 Echinus 
 Cancer astacus 
 
 pagurus 
 
 medusa 
 
 gaideropus 
 
 Patella Graeca 
 Pinna marina 
 Mactra stultorum 
 Turbo marina. 
 
 VOL. ir. 
 
 3l
 
 442 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 The shore of Athos is exceedingly rocky ; generally deep : I ob- 
 served few shell fish cast on it. The Pinna is frequent ; on opening 
 one we observed two shrimp-like crabs within its shell.* The season 
 for the entomologist was past. I saw some species of Lepidoptera, 
 as Pap. Cleopatra, Hyale, Brassica?, Cardui, Arge, still remaining. 
 The Gnats were very troublesome while we were lying at anchor in 
 the bay of Daphne. 
 
 Athos is composed of a variety of rocks of gneiss, of marble of 
 different shades, from grey to white, and of glimmer slate. The 
 hollow of these rocks is filled with the rich earth of decayed vege- 
 tables, and offers to the botanist a great diversity of plants, which 
 are sheltered by the shade of the trees, and protected by the super- 
 stition of the caloyers from being browsed on by the goats ; so that, 
 at the late season of the year, when we visited it, I was enabled to 
 make a list of 450 plants which I observed on it. I neither visited 
 the northern side of it, nor the higher regions where are the parts 
 which su})ply the greatest variety of vegetables. I conclude that 
 Athos, more than any mountain in Greece, abounds in plants, par- 
 ticularly those which the botanist terms subalpine, and wood plants. 
 Of the really alpine, Greece furnishes very few ; and if Athos is less 
 high than Parnassus, it is more wooded. It contains a far greater 
 number of trees and shrubs, some of which are not to be found in any 
 other part of Greece. The beautiful Andrachne grows here in greater 
 abundance than either in Crete or Boeotia ; which, if we except Ski- 
 atho, are the only habitats for it, that I know of. The continual 
 alarms from the pirates prevented my sleeping on shore ; and the 
 little opportunity I had of conversing with the Caloyers did not add 
 much to my stock of knowledge of the economical uses of the Greek 
 
 * " Cancer Pisum. Crabs of this kind, or allied to them, the antients believed to be 
 the consentaneous inmates of the Pinnae, and other bivalves, which being too stupid to 
 perceive the approach of their prey, were warned of it by their vigilant friend." Pennant. 
 Dr. Sibthorp refers to Oppian for a description of these Cancri. The passage is in the 
 HaUeutics, 1. 2. The Cancer is called Ilivvoipu^af. — E.
 
 ZANTE. 
 
 443 
 
 plants. The wild cabbage was frequent on the sea-clifFs ; our sailors 
 collected quantities of it ; the flavour was bitter, but not unpleasant ; 
 they ate it boiled with oil. They collected also the leaves of the 
 sow-thistle, as a pot-herb. The Donax, which grew in the moist 
 chasms of the rock, supplied them with fishing rods ; and I was in- 
 formed the Caloyers drew a considerable quantity of oil from the 
 berries of the Bay. Belon figures the Euphorbia Apios, and says, its 
 medicinal virtues were known to the Caloyers. I remember meeting 
 with it in Crete, where a Caloyer told me the upper part, if eaten, 
 proved emetic ; the lower part cathartic. * I observed the apple-like 
 appearance on the Salvia-triloba to be common ; and very perfect 
 specimens of the horn-like figure from the puncture of the Cynips 
 on the Terebinthus. 
 
 
 ZANTE. 
 
 
 PISCES. 
 
 A^oyKOi 
 
 Murasna conger 
 
 FaXepa 
 
 Ophidium barbatum 
 
 Kouxo!; 
 
 Uranoscopus scaber 
 
 A^axivoc 
 
 Trachinus Draco 
 
 MeXvTi^io 
 
 Gadus Merluccius 
 
 MTTOCKOcXsog 
 
 G. Mustela 
 
 <biXnrirog 
 
 Blennius Gallongius 
 
 rXid^Soc 
 
 B. Pholis 
 
 <t>ixuy.oXx 
 
 Cepola taenia 
 
 ^OCfjt,lX.IX.fX.tTX 
 
 Callyonymus Zacynthius 
 
 A(ryol3iog 
 
 Gobius niger 
 
 T,KOaTTiSl 
 
 Scorpasna porcus 
 
 Eoci/TTHfO 
 
 Zeus Faber 
 
 ?djA.vog 
 
 Pleuronectes rhombus 
 
 ,f^,See Dioscorldes, 1. 4. c. 177. 
 
 
 3l 2
 
 444 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 Uxa-a-epa 
 
 P. 
 
 passer 
 
 'Ltpvyio 
 
 r. 
 
 glossa 
 
 ZTTa^of 
 
 Sparus annularis 
 
 T^I-TTOVpCK 
 
 S. 
 
 auratus 
 
 Zap^of 
 
 S. 
 
 sargus 
 
 MeXocvov^o 
 
 s. 
 
 melanurus 
 
 Lfioc^lSx 
 
 s. 
 
 smaris 
 
 T^epouXas 
 
 s. 
 
 maena 
 
 'O^(pos 
 
 s. 
 
 orfus 
 
 'Epvdfivog 
 
 s. 
 
 erythrinus 
 
 <t>xyfog 
 
 s. 
 
 pagrus 
 
 BitlTTO. 
 
 s. 
 
 boops 
 
 Zxoi9»^i 
 
 s. 
 
 cantharus 
 
 KuXoyftT^u 
 
 s. 
 
 chromis 
 
 ^vvocy^looc 
 
 s. 
 
 dentex 
 
 Mo^ptov^o 
 
 s. 
 
 mormyrus 
 
 LocXttu 
 
 s. 
 
 salpa 
 
 I^KU^og 
 
 Labrus scarus 
 
 Xuvvi 
 
 L. 
 
 Channus 
 
 rv^TOfiavtocTiKog 
 
 L. 
 
 furcatus 
 
 n^x<rivufi 
 
 L. 
 
 tardus 
 
 T^ovyXoptiTi 
 
 L. 
 
 tinea 
 
 FiovXag 
 
 L. 
 
 iulis 
 
 XiXou^ot 
 
 L. 
 
 lapina 
 
 T^OCKOVXl 
 
 L. 
 
 hepatus 
 
 TvTTTog 
 
 L. 
 
 ocellaris 
 
 Ax-TTivciict 
 
 L. 
 
 melops 
 
 rvTTTog 
 
 L. 
 
 fuscus 
 
 l,vxiog 
 
 Sciasna umbra 
 
 AxP^xxi 
 
 Perca lubrax 
 
 UifKoe. 
 
 P. 
 
 marina 
 
 Tov^owd^xpo 
 
 Gasterosteus ductor 
 
 A/r^a 
 
 G 
 
 . Litza 
 
 Touvtvx 
 
 Scomber thynnus
 
 ZANTE. 
 
 445 
 
 AovT^iov 
 BeXo>iSa. 
 
 T^XKOUfici^lX 
 
 } 
 
 S. Pelamis 
 S. Scomber 
 S. Trachurus 
 Trigla cuculus 
 Esox sphyraena 
 
 E. belone. 
 
 INSECTA. 
 
 Papilio Atalanta 
 
 Brassicae 
 
 Hyale 
 
 Urticae 
 
 Cimex hyoscyami 
 Cimex baccarum 
 Cancel' Pisum 
 Cancer Rhomboides 
 C. depurator 
 
 C. araneus 
 C. rostratus 
 C. hirtellus 
 C. coccineus 
 C. longimanus 
 C. Squilla 
 C. Diogenes 
 C. Pilosus 
 C. arctus 
 C. Mantis 
 Oniscus 
 
 dvuTroSoKccfioiipoi 
 a[x.i/.ouKx[3oupx 
 T^»f/.l3XolKog Tou TTsXayov 
 <r(pxXccyyi tou 'TreXdyov 
 
 XOKKIVOKOilcOVpOC, * 
 
 idem. 
 
 <rxop7r<of Toij TnXolyou 
 •yxpiotx. * 
 
 X,Ot(oO\JpOfA.(X.VCC 
 
 l^xvvoTrovXx 
 Jcoc^oxl3iT^a 
 i}/ijpa TOU TTiXocyov 
 
 * Tapi'Sa, cancer; from xap);, of the aiitient Greeks; vid. Du Cange. Ka^tvpoc, 
 according to Eustathius, is corrupted from Koiji.ii.apai. Du C. in v. Ka/3. — E.
 
 446 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 MOLL use A. 
 
 Nereis versicolor i|/)jfa tou vBKol'yov 
 
 Asterias rubens o-raiipoV tou TreXdycv 
 
 As. aculeata idem, and i^y^toa-Txu^d 
 
 Actinia impudica fiouvi tou TrsKxyou 
 Ascidia intestinalis 
 
 rustica 
 
 Holothuria tubulosa ^aXao-o-o^^wX^ 
 
 Aphrodita squamata T^ncvtSac. Trjg fjoxi^Xioig 
 
 Asterias aranciaca a-Tuv^og tou TnxdiyoM 
 
 As. ophiura da-j^ov tov TnXdyov 
 
 Echinus esculentus dx^vog 
 
 Sphaeroides kovi/.x^sXXi 
 
 Sepia octopodia ojcTWTro'Ji 
 
 S. officinalis o-t^ttioc 
 
 S. Lidona Xi^uva. roZ 'niXciyou 
 
 S. LoligO xtx.Xu[A,a,^i* 
 
 Lepas anatifera 
 
 Pholas dactylus 
 
 Solen vagina 
 
 Tellina laevigata 
 
 T. striata 
 
 T. gibbosa 
 
 T. angulata 
 
 T. lactea 
 
 Cardium rusticum 
 
 C. edule 
 
 Mac tr astultorum 
 
 TESTACEA. 
 
 djitOOCKi TOU Koipoc!2tou 
 SoiKTuXog and ciy^xfjbloa 
 (TovXyiva 
 
 TrXxTccfjudx Tov aix.jj.ou 
 id. 
 
 OC^ll3olSx TOU «j(*jttOU 
 
 * Tsufli'Ssj T« xoivwj XsyofAsva KctKocfia-pta.. Sell. 0pp. Hal. i. 428. — E.
 
 ZANTE. 
 
 44'; 
 
 Venus Chione 
 
 
 Venus tellinoides 
 
 
 Area barbata 
 
 
 A. glycymeris 
 
 u^tl3atdx 
 
 A. nucleus 
 
 fjiXfjuduKt 
 
 Ostrea Jacobaea 
 
 KXTToa-oivTot, 
 
 glabra 
 
 
 sanguinea 
 
 Anomia ephippiura 
 
 ■TTocTsXy^l^oc Trig OTT^iocg 
 
 Pinna nobilis 
 
 tuvvo. 
 
 Cypraea 
 
 yovfowxKi TOO TTsXayou 
 
 Voluta rustica 
 
 TOVfTOVXoc 
 
 V. cornicula 
 
 
 Buccinum galea 
 
 
 testiculus 
 
 
 mutabile 
 
 
 Donax trunculus 
 
 jHu'l?* TOV CCfAflOU 
 
 Charaa Gryphoides 
 
 
 INIytilus edulis 
 
 U0cl3^0fi[JCI 
 
 Argon auta Argo 
 
 ^oXoiKTOTToSl 
 
 Turbo rugosus 
 
 f^yja-i T^j llocvctyiug 
 
 T. reflexus 
 
 
 T. bidens 
 
 
 T. pictus 
 
 
 T. haematostomus 
 
 
 T. politus 
 
 
 T. neritoides 
 
 (TotXiyyoig 
 
 Helix albella 
 
 (TdXi'yyofi^a.iKa. 
 
 H. nemoralis 
 
 7r»[/,l3ocXoUT^i 
 
 H. subcylindrica 
 
 
 H. cornea 
 
 
 H. lineata 
 
 
 H. lanthina 
 
 upiJi.iVi<rTa^o}iuvva.
 
 448 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 Nerita glaucina 
 Patella vulgata 
 
 Helix fragilis 
 
 yovgouvaKi 
 
 P. inasqualis Id. 
 
 Spondylus gaidaropus ycciSe^oTroSx 
 Area Noae cnnTTovlKi 
 
 "Murex trunculus xy^tozu^aKdvyioXui; 
 
 M. reticularis 
 M. craticulatus 
 
 1. Triticum 
 
 2. 
 
 3. 
 
 4. 
 
 5. 
 
 6. 
 
 7. 
 
 8. 
 
 9. 
 
 10. 
 
 11. 
 
 12. 
 
 13. 
 
 14. Hordeum sativum 
 
 15. Avena sativa 
 16. 
 
 17. 
 
 18. Oryza sativa 
 
 19. Holcus 
 
 20. 
 
 21. Zea JNIays 
 22. 
 
 <TM CULT^. 
 
 
 -JTOXlTig 
 
 Zante 
 
 u<r7r^oiriTt»ft 
 
 Zante 
 
 oi[x,yivto 
 
 Lebadea 
 
 KSKZIVOa-lTt 
 
 Lebadea 
 
 l2Xuy.o(rrd^i 
 
 Lebadea 
 
 fA,ovoXoyt 
 
 Lebadea 
 
 Caracultchuc 
 
 Plain of Troy 
 
 Bogdai 
 
 Lemnos 
 
 Sarabogdai 
 
 Troy 
 
 Devedishi 
 
 Troy 
 
 CTTci^i 
 
 Constantinople 
 
 (TTK^t 
 
 Athens 
 
 (TTCCfl 
 
 Athens 
 
 Xfidl 
 
 Athens 
 
 
 Constantinople 
 
 (i^ufjn 
 
 Athens 
 
 .Gp/^. 
 
 Athens 
 
 
 Lebadea 
 
 o«'p< 
 
 Lemnos 
 
 KxXa.f^l3oxi 
 
 Peloponnesus 
 
 
 Troy 
 
 
 apOiTTOClTt 
 
 Athens
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 449 
 
 23. Lupinus 
 
 Xocdov^i* 
 
 Athens 
 
 24. Vicia faba 
 
 KOVKt 
 
 Athens 
 
 25. Vicia sativa 
 
 PiKlCV 
 
 Athens 
 
 26. Ervum lens 
 
 ^dxrj 
 
 Athens 
 
 27. Cicer ariet. 
 
 '^o(2i9> 
 
 Athens 
 
 28. Phaseolus vulg. 
 
 
 Athens 
 
 29. Pisum sativum 
 
 
 Lemnos 
 
 30. Sesamum off. 
 
 
 Constantinople 
 
 SI. Gossypium 
 
 
 Athens 
 
 32. Raphanus sativus 
 
 
 Athens 
 
 33. Hibiscus esculentus 
 
 Sultan bamia 
 
 Constantinople 
 
 34. Cichorium endivia 
 
 
 Constantinople 
 
 
 35. Cynara cardunculus 
 
 
 Pera 
 
 
 36. Atriplex hortensis 
 
 37. Solanum jEthiopicum 
 
 
 Athos 
 Constantinople 
 
 
 
 38. S. Lycopersicum 
 
 
 Constantinople 
 
 
 39. Capsicum annuum 
 
 
 Byzantium 
 
 
 40. Cucurbita CitruUus 
 
 41. C. Lagenaria 
 
 42. C. Melopepo 
 
 
 Byzantium 
 Byzantium 
 Byzantium 
 
 
 
 
 43. Cucumis Melo 
 
 
 Troy 
 
 
 44. Trichosanthes Anguina 
 
 
 Troy 
 
 
 45. Dolichos Lablab 
 
 46. Mirabilis Jalapa 
 
 
 Byzantium 
 Byzantium 
 
 
 
 47. Helianthus annuus 
 
 48. JSIimosa Nilotica 
 
 49. Trifolium Melilotus 
 
 
 A f nf>nQ 
 
 
 Athens 
 Pera. 
 
 
 
 • In Sommavera we find Kouxia, faxid, /3ixia, Kairipi. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 3 M
 
 450 
 
 TRANSLATION OF THE ARABIC INSCRIPTION, 
 
 FOUND IN THE INTERIOR OF THE PYRAMID OF CEPHRENES, 
 
 March, 1818. 
 
 [The labour, danger, and difficulties which M. Belzoni experienced 
 ill his endeavours to open and examine the pyramid of Cephrenes, 
 are stated by him in a letter, which was printed in the Quarterly 
 Review, No. 37. In one of his communications addressed to the 
 Earl of Aberdeen, as President of the Society of Antiquaries, he sent 
 a copy of an Arabic inscription which he found on the western wall 
 of the great chamber of the Pyramid. This curious document I have 
 received from the Earl of Aberdeen ; and it is now printed, for the 
 first time, from M. Belzoni's copy, accompanied by the following il- 
 lustration, with which I have been favoured by Professor Lee.] — 
 Editor. 
 
 Queen's College, Cambridge, October 24. 1819. 
 Dear Sir, 
 I BELIEVE 1 said, when I last had the pleasure of seeing you in 
 Cambridge, that I was of opinion the order of the words in the in- 
 scription, which you had communicated to me, was very much con- 
 fused. I was led to form this conjecture from the position of the 
 word '^y : which, as it now stands in the inscription, seems to baffle 
 every attempt towards making an intelligible translation. Hence I
 
 TRANSLATION OF AN ARABIC INSCRIPTION. 451 
 
 was also led to suppose, that this was not the only transposition, 
 which had, by some means or other, found its way into the inscription ; 
 and made it apparently point out persons of whom we have no ac- 
 count in the histories of Egypt. My next endeavour was an attempt 
 to restore the inscription to the order in which it might originally 
 have stood : and then to determine, if possible, both the persons and 
 circumstances to which it alluded. After several trials I fixed upon the. 
 following order, which I now submit, as affording a probable solution 
 of the difficulties, which this curious document appeared to present : 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 " The master*, Mohammed, son of Ahmed the stone-cutter, first 
 opened them t ; and, upon this (occasion) were present El Melik 
 Othman, and the master (Othman), and Mohammed Luglak." 
 
 Now if we turn to Abdallatif 's account of Egypt, we shall find the 
 following remarkable narrative if, which. lam inclined to think, points 
 out the circumstance alluded to in the inscription. It will be of 
 little consequence whether we adopt the translation of A¥hite or De 
 Sacy. I have been inclined to take the latter, as well on account of 
 its superior accuracy, as the valuable notes with which it is accompa- 
 nied. 
 
 Quand Melic-alaziz Othman ben-Yousouf eut succede a son pere, il 
 se laissa persuader par quelques personnes de sa cour, gens depourvus 
 de bon sens, de dcmolir ces pyramides ; et Ton commen9a par la py- 
 ramide rouge, qui est la troisieme des grandes pyramides et la moins 
 considerable. 
 
 • The word Jjt« here translatefl " master," appears to be a title of ofBce. " These 
 Mollcms," says a late traveller in Egypt, " are, in fact, a kind of clerks to government, 
 in all the principal cities and towns throiigliout Egypt. They receive the orders of the 
 various governors, and collect the tribute, &c. from the Copts." — Mission. Reg. for Sept. 
 
 f Alluding, probably, to the chambers of the Pyramid. 
 
 X Relation de I'Egyptc, p. 177. (page 101 of White's edition.) 
 
 3 M 2
 
 ^52 TRANSLATION OF AN ARABIC INSCRIPTION 
 
 Le Sultan y envoya done des sapeurs, des mineurs et des carriers, 
 sous la conduite de quelques-uns des principaux officiers et des pre- 
 miers emirs de sa cour, et leur donna ordre de la detruire. Pour exe- 
 cuter les ordres dont ils etoient charges, ils etablirent leur camp pres 
 de la pyramide ; ils y ramasserent de tous cotes un grande nombre de 
 travailleurs, et les entretinrent a grand frais. lis y demeurerent ainsi 
 huit mois entiers, occupes avec tout leur monde a I'execution de la 
 commission dont ils etoient charges, enlevant chaque jour, apres 
 s'etre donne bien du mal et avoir epuise toutes leurs forces, une ou 
 deux pierres. Les uns les poussoient d'en-haut avec des coins et 
 des leviers, tandis que d'autres travailleurs les tiroient d'en-bas avec 
 des cordes et des cables. Quand une de ces pierres venoit enfin a 
 tomber, elle faisoit un bruit epouvantable, qui retentissoit a un tres- 
 grand eloignement, et qui ebranloit la terre et faisoit trembler les 
 montagnes. Dans sa chute, elle s'enfon9oit dans le sable ; il falloit 
 derechef employer de grands efforts pour Ten retirer ; apres quoi. 
 Ton y pratiquoit des entailles, pour y faire entrer des coins : on faisoit 
 ainsi eclater ces pierres en plusieurs morceaux ; puis on chargeoit 
 chaque morceau sur un chariot pour le trainer au pied de la montagne 
 qui est a peu de distance, et oii Ton le jetoit. 
 
 Apres etre restes long-temps campes en cet endroit, et avoir con- 
 somme tous leurs moyens pecuniaires, comma leur peine et leurs 
 fatigues alloient toujours en croissant, que leur resolution au contraire 
 s'affoiblissoit de jour en jour, et que leurs forces etoient epuisees, ils 
 furent contraints de renoncer honteusement a leur enterprise. Loin 
 d'obtenir le succes qu'ils s'etoient promis, et de reussir dans leur des- 
 sein, ils n'en retirerent d'autre avantage que" de gater la pyramide, 
 et de mettre dans une entiere evidence leur impuissance et leur foi- 
 blesse. Ceci se passa en I'annee, 593.* (Com. nov. 1196.) 
 
 * The above date corresponds to A.D. II 96-7, beginniii"; on tlie 23d of November in the 
 former. In a note by M. de Sacv, p. '2-23., of the Relation above cited, tlie date A. D. 1 1 93 
 is given from the Annales Moslemici of Abulfcda; but it ^houlcl be remembered that this 
 is not given as the date of the event: for it will be found by consulting Abulfeda, tliat the 
 ilate he gives for the accession of Otliman to tiie throne of Egypt, agrees with tiiat given 
 by Abdallatif.
 
 FOUND IN THE SECOND PYRAMID. 453 
 
 Hence it appears tliat a preparation, sufficient to accomplish the 
 event, pointed out by the inscription, was made by Othman ; and 
 that he actually took down a part of the smaller pyramid. It must 
 be confessed, however, that we have no positive account of the open- 
 mg of the second pyramid, in which our inscription was found: 
 though the probability appears strong to me, that it must have taken 
 place on the above occasion. There is a passage in a work by Mak- 
 rizi, entitled, cJj^l J^j li^^ ^^1 ^-U.^ " An Introduction to a 
 Knowledge of the royal Dynasties," which I have thought may allude 
 to the circumstance in question ; and, as it is dated one year earlier 
 than the account of the partial demolition of the third pyramid, may, 
 it allowed to have any weight, intimate that an attempt was made 
 upon the two larger ones, prior to that time. The passage is this : 
 tjs" Vj-S: JiJ. (♦KsJl fjoij ^_J^ Jj/«JI !»/: ^1 t^i ^j ^i,•:^**-<; ij^^ Ix-, ciJ-»-»> 
 
 I 
 
 hjAJi^'i] ^] j.|^| ^,L. <UJj <l^JO> ^ c^ J\yJ\ ijl^V ^j^J^ *>} j:^*^' (V>'^^ sJ^ 
 
 " In the beginning of the year (5)92 ... In the month Dhi 'Ihijjat, 
 Alaziz (i. e. Othman) conceived a design of destroying the pyramids, 
 and of carrying the stones to the walls of Damietta : but upon being 
 informed that the expense in demolishing them would be great, and 
 the gain, as regarded the stones, but small, he turned his attention 
 from the two larger pyramids to the smaller one, which was built 
 with granite, and began to destroy it. In the same (month) he re- 
 turned to Alexandria." 
 
 Now as the first pyramid had been opened since the time of * El 
 
 • It has generally been thought, that El Mamoon opened the first pyramid about 
 A.D. S29, to which the Arabic historians give an universal assent. M. de Sacy, how- 
 ever, doubts the fact, from the manner in which Dionysius of Telmahre speaks of it. " II 
 nieparoit fort douteux," says the learned and ingenious writer, (p. 219.) " que la j)rcmiere 
 ouverturc de la grande pyramide soit due au Khalife Mamoun. Mon doute est fonde sur 
 la maniere dont Denys de Telmahre, patriarche Jacobite d'Antioche, qui aecompagna 
 Mamoun en Egyptc, parle de la pyramide, qui etoit deja ouverte quand il la visita." 
 
 The passage alluded to is found in page 556. of the Relation: 
 ,_^] ^.4S-.. ^] ilcji ]-,.V...c ^C5ui£ f^} \==^ ^'^^ it-'^:^? )^^.> \n'-'r ^i— 
 which he translates thus: " Nous avons regarde par une ouverture qui etoit faite de
 
 454 
 
 TRANSLATION OF AN ARABIC INSCRIPTION 
 
 Mamoon, it is not so likely that the king would make an attempt 
 upon this, as upon the second. There is also another circumstance 
 that appears to add something towards establishing this conjecture, 
 which is the following passage, given in the same book, and under the 
 same date : viz. ,^'j^^ *-=-=-; ^j cj^^ ^ i:;^ "^1 -'^ f^^^ '^'^ \r*^j " -^"^ 
 in the same year died the master Abd Allah Ebn Ali Othman Ebn 
 Yusuf El INIahriimi." Now if this be the person designated in our 
 inscription bv *i«^l to which I have added ^^l^ in a parenthesis, sup- 
 posing it to have been omitted for the sake of brevity, we arrive at a 
 great degree of certainty as to the purport and date of the inscription. 
 Still I must not be understood as pronouncing positively on these 
 points ; my object is only to lay before you and your readers the best 
 interpretation of the inscription that has occurred to me. 
 
 There is still another name: viz. <:J'U j.,4^s Mohammed Luglak, of 
 which I am imable to give any account, not having been able to find 
 any in the books I have consulted on this subject. This, however, 
 does not appear to me to present any difficulty, in regard to the inter- 
 pretation above given, as it is not improbable he may have been some 
 Tartar (for the name is not of Arabic origin) who might have been 
 amono; the courtiers of Othman. 
 
 I know of no circumstance in the annals of Egypt, likely to present 
 a better interpretation of the inscription in question, than that which 
 has already been given ; for, although El Mamoon, as above noticed, 
 
 I'une de ces edifices ct qui est profonde de cinquante coudes." But with every defer- 
 ence to the talents of M. de Sacy, I cannot help thinking that the passage in question, 
 serves rather to establisii the general opinion than the contrary; for it does not appear 
 from the Syriac original, that the Patriarch is speaking of an event, that had long taken 
 place, but the contrary. " We saw," says he, " the opening that had been made in 
 the side of one of them, and it was about fifty cubits deep." The time is not mentioned, it 
 is true, when the aperture was made ; but I am inclined to think the Patriarch mentions 
 it as a recent event. 
 
 There is a passage in Strabo, (lib.xvii. p. 808. edit. Paris, 1620,) noticed also in 
 Norden, in which it is said, that there was a moveable stone, about the middle of the side 
 of the pyramids, (ju-Eo-ajf Troif twv TrXsugcuv Ai'Sov efaigeVifiov,) which opened a passage to tlie 
 chambers. The taking out of this stone is all Mamoon could have done, and which, I 
 think, it is probable he did.
 
 FOUND IN THE SECOND PYRAMID. 455 
 
 as well as Ebn Tuloon*, is said to have visited the great pyramid, yet 
 there does not appear any thing in the inscription that points to them. 
 If I may be allowed to hazard a conjecture on the inscription itself, 
 I should say, that the confused order in which it appears, is to me an 
 evidence of its authenticity ; for had an Arab been employed to 
 fabricate it in Egypt, I am of opinion, there would neither have been 
 obscurity in its language, nor difficulty in its application. Nor is it 
 improbable, that the confused order already noticed, may have arisen, 
 either from the ignorance of the workman, who en<iraved it in the 
 pyramid, or from a custom which is found to prevail in the inscrip- 
 tions of coins, &c. where the order is entirely sacrificed to ap- 
 pearance. It is, however, much to be regretted, that we have not 
 a fac-simile of the inscription, which would probably, on its first 
 appearance, dissipate every doubt and difficulty, that may yet re- 
 main. I mention this, because I think there mav still be an error 
 in the last word of the inscription ; for if jlil be the true reading, 
 where we now have (j/i'i!, a key would be afforded towards explaining 
 the silence of the Arabic historians on the event in question ; and in 
 that case, I should conclude the inscription to be incomplete. If the 
 word jli\ be substituted for cl^'U!, it would seem, that the person who 
 opened the pyramid, had already determined again to close it up, 
 which, had it been immediately done, might have been the means of 
 eluding the notice of the historians. 
 
 I remain, dear Sir, yours, &c. 
 
 Samuel Lee. 
 
 • In a work by Soyuti, entitled, S^lsJl^ j^<: j^^ ^ .ysUs<»-l ^^^'•^ i^Xii we have 
 the following account: hiJi a^\ l 'jJ^y A^\ t— '^'1 ^X^/-^ •••• u^i^L-j' "^"^^^ ^J 
 L:i?" ^ i^j'j^ .... ^J^^'* " When Ahmed Ebn Tuloon dug down to the doors of the 
 pyramids, they found a vessel of pearl, &c. . . . but he gave up the hope of opening them." 
 
 Again, 
 
 .... J^jJl ^ (^U)! «_A.«i ^J^»i' ^ A^o-' jJai " In the time of Ahmed Ebn Tuloon, 
 a number of people entered the great Pyramid, who found in one of its chambers a cup 
 of glass, of wonderful colour. When Ahmed Ebn Tuloon was informed of thisj he gave 
 orders that none should enter it."
 
 456 TRANSLATION OF AN ARABIC INSCRIPTION. 
 
 [For the following literal version of M. Belzoni's copy of the in- 
 scription, with the accompanying remark, the editor is obliged to 
 Mr.Usko. — E.] 
 
 f^^} icafatahh-hum, and opened them, 
 
 JjtJl al tmid/lim, the master, 
 
 A^j^l ^ ^4.^^ Mohammed hen Ahhmed, Mohammed Son of Ahhmed, 
 
 jWsy! al-hhuggiar, the stone-cutter, 
 
 cJJij K'fl dhalik, and likewise 
 
 JjwJi al inudllim, the Master, 
 
 ^^UJu: Olhman. 
 
 j.d>- Madera (There) was present 
 
 cXUlj li-al maliJi, also the king, 
 
 ,^A.jsr< ^ Aly Mohhamyned, 
 
 i.) awzcalan, at first, 
 cJiUS. 'ii-'d Leghlak, and Leghlak. 
 
 It appears to me that the inscription does not finish here, but is 
 continued to render the sense more complete, and to add the date to 
 it when the opening of the pyramid or pyramids took place ; I say 
 of the pyramids, as the inscription bears at its commencement : — He, 
 the master, opened Mem {ja hum). If any mistake is committed in 
 copyintT this inscription, the word Leghlak is more liable to it than 
 any other. Let us suppose, then, that Leghlak was written in the in- 
 scription cj""^^ Oghlak, or Oughlak, (pronounced in English Ooghlak), 
 the copyist might have mistaken the Alif, which is never connected 
 with any letter of the Arabic alphabet at the beginning of a word, for 
 a Lam, which is commonly and usually connected with the following 
 letter. Should we admit it, there would be another difficulty of 
 ascertaining who this Oughlak was. With respect to al Hhuggiar, or 
 as it is more frequently pronounced in common life, al Hhaggiar, 
 there is, I think, no doubt of its signification here, viz. that of 
 stone-cutter. Hhager signifies a stone, in Arabic, and Hhaggiar a 
 stone-cutter. Hagar, in Genes, ch. xvi. v. 15., and ch. xxi. v. 9. 
 &c., and Agar, in the Ep. to Galat. ch. iv, v. 24, 25. are the same 
 words, pronounced with a hard ga, in the same manner as the Ara- 
 bic -. gim is now pronounced at Mecca and in Egypt.
 
 457 
 
 ACCOUNT OF 
 
 A JOURNEY THROUGH PART OF LITTLE TARTARY ; 
 
 AND OF SOME OF 
 
 THE ARMENIAN, GREEK, AND TARTAR SETTLEMENTS 
 
 IN THAT PORTION OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. 
 [FROM THE JOURNALS OF MR. IfHITTINGTON.] 
 
 Armenian Sfttlcmcnt of Nachtchivan. — First Appearance of the Toxim. — Population. 
 
 Flourishing stale of the Colony. — Hudc Statues belonging to the Tumuli on the Stepvs. 
 — Religious Ceremonies attending the Elevation of the Cross, over the Dome of the princi- 
 pal Church at Nachtchivan. — Arrival at Taganrog. — Population. — Trade q/'this Place 
 with Turkey. — Route between Taganrog and Mariapol. — Te7its, Dress, Appearance, and 
 Mode of Life of the Calmuks. — Mariapol ; a Settlement of Crimean Greeks. — Arrival 
 in the Territory of the Nogay Tartars. — Account rf their Habits and Manners. — Striking 
 contrast presented by the Industty and Cultivation visible in a Settlement of Prussian 
 Sectaries. 
 
 Saturday, June 10. O. S. 1816. — The information which we had 
 received respecting the colonies planted by the Russian government 
 on the northern coast of" the sea of AzofF, having determined us to visit 
 that part of I^ittleTartary, in our way to the Crimea, we this day quitted 
 the city of Old Tcherkask, and after sailing down the Don, as far as 
 Oksai, proceeded along its right bank to the Armenian settlement of 
 Nachtchivan. 
 
 Nothing could be more striking than the transition from the de- 
 serted and ruinous capital of the Cossacks to the streets of this 
 flourishing little town. The appearance of the houses, which are 
 constructed as in many parts of Turkey, with open wooden corridors, 
 and low tiled roofs, made a pleasing variation to the uniform aspect 
 
 VOL. II. 3 N
 
 458 ACCOUNT OF SOME ARMENIAN, 
 
 of Russian architecture ; and the oriental costume of the inhabitants, 
 who filled, the market and shops, all active and employed, added 
 forcibly to the effect of the contrast. The Bazar presents a scene 
 really astonishing to one arriving from the vast and lonely Stepps, 
 whose solitary effect had hardly been diminished in our case, by our 
 visit to the empty streets of the two Tcherkasks.* The extensive 
 range of buildings devoted to the shops seems sufficient for a con- 
 siderable city. Two sides of the large square which they surround 
 have already been completed in brick, and though the others remain 
 still of wood, the whole is filled with a rich display of the merchan- 
 dise of the East and West ; and being crowded with noisy and anxious 
 bargainers, has a prosperous and cheerful air. 
 
 This colony was composed of the Armenians, who were withdrawn 
 from the Crimea by Katharine II., before that peninsula was added 
 to the Russian empire. They were settled on this spot in 1780 ; and 
 the present generation appear to have no reason to be dissatisfied with 
 the change. The town stands liigh upon a ridge of shell-limestone, 
 (the last swell of the elevated Stepp,) which forms the right bank of 
 the Don, and overlooks the river with a south-eastern aspect. On 
 the farther side commences the vast plain of Asia, which extends as 
 far as the eye can reach, and which, though low and marshy, does not 
 affect the healthy climate of the place. The winters are severe, but 
 short ; and the broad stream of the Don, which in summer affords the 
 means of commercial intercourse with Taganrog, is occasionally frozen 
 for about two months. When this is not the case, the inhabitants are 
 eager to avail themselves (as an article of summer luxury) of the ice 
 which it brings down with it from more northern latitudes. The 
 town consists of 4600 houses, and contains 6000 male inhabitants. 
 There are from twenty-five to thirty noble families ; and the internal 
 
 * The removal of the seat of government from Old to New Tchcrkask had not been 
 followed, at the time of our visit, by a corresponding movement on the part of the great 
 body of the Cossacks; so that the modern capital, though the residence of the Atamaii 
 and his officers, was but thinly iniiabited, and the ancient city, with a considerable popu- 
 lation, wore the appearance of poverty and desertion.
 
 GREEK, AND TARTAR SETTLEMENTS. 459 
 
 government of the place is entirely confided to the Armenians them- 
 selves. Provisions are as cheap at Nachtchivan as in the Crimea; 
 for a pound of meat costs but ten copecks (about one penny), and a 
 pound of white bread half that sum. The colonists complained in 
 some degree of the inroads and thefts of the neighbouring Cossacks ; 
 but expressed themselves upon the whole as contented and happy in 
 their present situation. They have four establishments for the col- 
 lection of raw silk, but the quantity produced, at the most considerable 
 of these, appears trifling, not exceeding one hundred weight in the best 
 years. The white mulberry-tree thrives well in this neighbourhood, 
 and we even saw it bearing fmit on the marshy islands of Tcherkask. 
 
 At the gate of Major Abramoff, an Armenian of noble family, we 
 observed three of the rude statues, which are collected from the tu- 
 muli, or barrov.'s, on the Stepp, and are not uncommonly placed as 
 ornaments about the houses in this part of Russia. Nothing can be 
 more uncouth and grim than these I'epresentations of the human form. 
 They are barbarously shaped out of coarse sandstone ; but the same 
 cast of flat Tartar features is observable in all, makino; it evident that 
 they are the monuments of some JNIongolian tribe. In those which 
 are transported to towns or villages, the original strange appearance 
 is not unfrequently increased by the addition of a modern coat of 
 paint on their faces, hair, and necklaces. Of those at the gate of 
 Major Abramoff', one is a male, and two are female figures. * 
 
 Sunday, June 11. — This was a remarkable holiday for the inhabit- 
 ants of Nachtchivan. Having just completed their principal church, 
 
 * So general has been the removal of these statues, from the stations whicli they were 
 formetl to occupy, that during the wliole of our jounioj' tlirough the Stepjis, we saw but 
 one in its original situation. This figure is placed on the summit of a lofty barrow, not 
 far from Bakmont, on the road between Kiiarkoft'and Tcherkask. It represents a female 
 in a sitting posture; but the face is broken, and it is buried to the knees in the earth, 
 from whence, upwards, it measures about five feet. It fronts tiie east, and being formed 
 of white sandstone, is conspicuous from a great distance, over the naked and level Stepp. 
 There are no others in that neighbourhood ; and our driver told us tiiat this was a man 
 petrified for his sins. 
 
 For a good representation of several of these figures, see the plate in vol. i. of P. Pallas's 
 Travels in the S. of Russia. 
 
 3n 2
 
 460 ACCOUNT OF SOME ARMENIAN, 
 
 in the building of which they have been occupied for many years, 
 they fixed this day for the elevation of the great cross which sur- 
 mounts the central dome. On arriving at the church we found it 
 already crowded with the inhabitants of both sexes, and the cross de- 
 posited in the centre. The women, all enveloped in black ferrigees 
 and white veils, occupied a distinct portion of the aisle fi-om the tran- 
 septs to the western door. The church itself differs little, externally 
 or internally, from the ordinary modern Russian churches, excepting 
 that the place of the tall pictured screen is supplied by a semicircular 
 curtain, M'hich is occasionally drawn round the altar during the 
 service. The chief priest, when we entered, was occupied in the cele- 
 bration of the sacrament, but after the usual communion-service was 
 concluded, the ceremony of the day commenced. The officiating 
 priests, habited in rich dresses, formed a ring around the spot where 
 the cross was deposited, while their principal, who wore a splendid 
 mitre, after reading and chanting in the Armenian language, pro- 
 ceeded to wash it all over, first with water and then with wine. A 
 silver vessel, shaped like a dove, was next brought, from which he 
 poured into a plate the precious ointment, which is only made at a 
 convent on JNlount Ararat. This he applied with his thumb to the 
 four extremities, and to the intersecting point of the cross, covering 
 the places afterwards with cotton, which the other priests further se- 
 cured, by binding over it, first paper, and then linen cloths. At 
 particular parts of the ceremony, the noise of the chaunt was height- 
 ened by cymbals ; by the chime of a metal cup, which was struck by a 
 boy with a metal clapper ; and by little silver bells attached to a round 
 plate of silver, which, being fixed at the extremity of a long staff, was 
 violently shaken at intervals. After all present had separately ad- 
 vanced, and kissed the cross, it was carried out into the square before 
 the church, and the scene was very pleasing as it was raised by 
 pullies to its place. The whole square was filled with groupes of Ar- 
 menian figures, all intently watching the ascending cross ; and the 
 loud chaunt of the priests continued in the open air, as it slowly rose 
 and reached its destined situation.
 
 GREEK, AND TARTAR SETTLEMENTS. 461 
 
 After the ceremony was concluded, an Armenian merchant having 
 asked us to breakfast, we followed him to his house, and were seated 
 upon a divan, beside a low table covered with plates of figs, raisins, 
 parched corn, almonds, and other dry productions of the East. Our 
 meal was rather of a motley description ; for we were served in suc- 
 cession with tea, with lemonade, with brandy and water, with liqueurs, 
 until breakfast grew into dinner ; and we partook of the usual eastern 
 dishes, pilaft'and dolmahs, accompanied by Greek wines, and those of 
 the Don. The women did not dine with us, but sat on a divan in an 
 adjoining apartment, adjusting their heavy dresses of gold brocade. 
 They wore the costume of Constantinople ; and their hair, which was 
 dyed black or auburn, hung down their backs in many braids. The 
 men unite the Turkish dress with the European hat, and therefore 
 abstain from shaving the head, except immediately round the forehead 
 and temples. Katarinoff, the merchant with whom we dined, is re- 
 puted to possess two millions of rubles ; but the plain room in which 
 he received us was ornamented only with two miserable prints of 
 Pitt and Nelson, and with an Armenian almanack, which he said 
 came from Venice. We left Nachtchivan in the evening, and passing 
 through the Russian fortress of RostoC', traversed the Stepp to Tchal- 
 tyr, an Armenian village, where we observed a groupe of female 
 buffaloes with their calves, a sufficient proof that these animals, which 
 at first could ill support the severe winters of this climate, have at 
 length been, to a certain degree, naturalised. 
 
 The next day, (June 12.) after a tedious drive across the Stepp, we 
 reached Taganrog. The appearance of this place, at least of its 
 buildings, differs little from the common aspect of the smaller Russian 
 towns ; but it is prettily situated on a tongue of land, projecting into 
 the sea of Azoff, at the point of which is a neglected fort. Though 
 the town is placed above a stratum of limestone, and in a country 
 altogether destitute of timber, the Russians have chiefly employed in 
 its construction their usual material, wood, which is procured at great 
 expense from the north, by means of the navigation of the Don. 
 The streets are of great width, and the low houses of a single story
 
 462 ACCOUNT OF SOME ARMENIAN, 
 
 by which they are bordered, are only connected with each other by 
 long ranges of wooden paling. A narrow track marks the centre, 
 but the remainder of every street is filled with the luxuriant grass of 
 the Stepp, which at the time we saw it was swarming with green 
 lizards. 
 
 The coast presents a cliff of reddish marl ; but the usual shell- 
 limestone of this neighbourhood projects at the base. The low line 
 of the opposite Asiatic coast is visible for a great extent, and the 
 fortress of AzofF is sometimes discernible at the distance of thirty 
 versts. 
 
 Taganrog contains 8000 houses, and 10,000 male inhabitants. Its 
 trade, which is principally in the hands of Ragusan merchants, is 
 chiefly employed in the interchange of the products of Russia, and 
 even of Siberia, with those of the Levant. The wines of the Grecian 
 Archipelago here find their best market ; for the annual average im- 
 portation of this article is not less than 200,000 vedros, half of which 
 is sent to be consumed in Siberia. The navigation of the Don gives 
 great facilities to this branch of commerce, and brings down the iron 
 and butter, which, together with the corn of Russia, are exported in 
 great quantities to Turkey. We visited the quarantine-establishment, 
 which is the best in Russia, and found its lazaretto entirely occupied 
 by Greek sailors, and by a party of Astrachan Tartars, returning 
 from Mecca. 
 
 June 16. — The road between Taganrog and Mariapol, after cross- 
 ing the Mious, lies over Stepps of the wildest chai'acter. The straight 
 black track in the natural soil, which lay in long prospect before us, 
 formed the only variation to the vast field of high and i-ank grass 
 which surrovmded us on every side. Bustards, partridges, and in- 
 numerable smaller birds, rose around us as we drove along, and the 
 Stepp seemed alive with myriads of lizards, and of the little animal 
 (Mus Citellus) called Suzlik by the Russians. Among the endless 
 sorts of wild flowers with which the rich soil was every where teem- 
 ing, we here began to observe the lofty yellow holy-oak, which we 
 afterwards met with in the greatest abundance. In crossing this
 
 GREEK, AND TARTAR SETTLEMENTS. 463 
 
 solitary tract we passed a small Calmuck encampment of two tents. 
 Their form is not unlike that of a bee-hive ; a circular frame of wood 
 rises perpendicularly for two or three feet from the earth, and then 
 closes above into a sort of dome ; so that the whole, being covered 
 with mats and felt, contains a chamber of about eight feet in dia- 
 meter. The party we met with consisted of only one family ; the 
 father, mother, and children occupying one tent, and a collection of 
 calves the other. They welcomed us amidst the barkin"- of doo-s ; 
 and, conducting us to the smoky interior of their tent, pressed us to 
 repose on a temporary divan of black felt. The features of the fe- 
 male wei'e strongly marked with the characteristics of her race. She 
 was dressed in a loose robe of coarse blue linen, and her jet-black hair 
 hung partly in two tresses, one on each side the face, and partly in a 
 single braid down her back. She wore large silver bracelets, and her 
 nfeck and breast were covered with strings of beads. Soon after we 
 were seated, she brought us bread, baked upon the embers, and a 
 small wooden bowl, containing the spirit distilled from a preparation 
 of mare's milk. They told us that the Calmucks prize highly the ad- 
 vantage which their religion (that of the Lhama) gives them over the 
 Nogays, and other ISIahometan tribes, by allowing them the use of 
 this ardent beverage, which, on tasting, we found only disagreeable 
 from its great strength. In addition to the care of a few horses, 
 cows, and broad-tailed sheep, this family is accustomed to cultivate 
 annually a small quantity of land, and we saw, not far from their tents, 
 a field of rich barley on the Stepp. They told us that there were 
 other numerous hordes in the neighbourhood, but we were not fortu- 
 nate enough to meet with them. The post throughout the Stepp is 
 served by Cossacks, who dwell in solitary hovels, whither they are 
 frequently sent by way of punishment. Besides these, we passed in 
 the course of the day one or two Russian villages, situated at wide 
 intervals, near the small streams which run towards the sea ot" Azoft! 
 At one of these, called Gruski Yelenchuck, we saw two specimens of 
 the rude statues before described, in excellent preservation.
 
 464 ACCOUNT OF SOME ARMENIAN, 
 
 Four versts from Mariapol we crossed the Kalmious, by a ferry. 
 The town, which we reached shortly afterwards, is of the same age, 
 and similar origin with Nachtchivan, being a settlement of Crimean 
 Greeks, who abandoned the peninsula in 1780. Its prosperity, how- 
 ever, has by no means kept pace with that of its sister colony, and 
 seems even to have declined since the visit of Professor Pallas in 1793. 
 The houses resemble those of Nachtchivan in form, but are dirty and 
 in bad repair. The wooden Bazar is ruinous and deserted. No kind 
 of manufacture is now carried on, and the only species of industry 
 displayed in the place is employed on the salting of sturgeons, which 
 are caught in great abundance in the neighbouring sea. Tiie in- 
 habitants, of whom they compute 1500 males, have adopted the 
 Russian costume, but retain the language of the Crim Tartars, mak- 
 ing no use of the Romaic. 
 
 June 17. — After passing a large Greek village (JVIangutch), at the 
 distance of eighteen versts from Mariapol, we found ourselves again 
 on the open Stepp, exhibiting the same wild character as before. 
 We followed for some time the road to Orechoff, and then, turning to 
 the left, proceeded towards the territory of the Nogay Tartars. We 
 saw game, particularly bustards, in great plenty, and the rank luxuri- 
 ance of the vegetation gave an air of freshness, and even of cheerfulness, 
 to the waste. After driving all day through the high grass, without 
 observing the slightest trace of habitation or cultivation, (for on leav- 
 ing the road to Orechoff we left also the line of the post,) in the after- 
 noon a Nogay Tartar, handsomely dressed, and well mounted, but 
 unattended, rode up to the side of our carriage, and welcomed us to 
 the territory of his fellow-countrymen. He was going, he said, to 
 visit some hay which was being made for him in a distant part of the 
 Stepp ; and after a short conversation, in the course of which he 
 offered us his fine horse for 800 rubles, suddenly rode off at full 
 gallop. In the evening we reached Obitochnoe, the capital of the 
 Nogays, and the residence of Count Maison, a French nobleman, now 
 their commandant. He kindly received us into his house, which, to
 
 GREEK, AND TARTAR SETTLEMENTS. 465 
 
 speak the truth, is nearly the only one in the place, and we passed 
 the remainder of the evening in conversing with him on the recent 
 history of the singular people, entrusted to his superintendance. 
 
 In consequence of the depredations committed by these wandering 
 tribes, which seemed to be encouraged by their wild and unsettled 
 mode of life, the attention of the provincial government has of late 
 been much directed to the project of inducing them to relinquish their 
 migrations, to build for themselves fixed villages, and to cultivate the 
 Stepp. We listened with much interest to a detail of the measures 
 by which this object, after froquent disappointments, has at last, to all 
 appearance, been accomplished. 
 
 Among the devices adopted for the purpose of enticing the hordes 
 of Nogays to make so considerable an infringement on their favourite 
 habits, tlie first in order was the construction of JMosques ; which hav- 
 ing been built at the expence of government, in favourable situations 
 on the Stepp, it was hoped might have had the effect of attracting 
 villages around them. The force of custom, however, was found too 
 strong to be overcome by this inducement ; the tribes moved as be- 
 fore, the Mullahs followed them, and the INIosques were deserted. 
 
 The next bait was a fixed bazar ; for Count Maison, having taken 
 advantage of a dispute between the Nogays and some Armenian 
 traders, who followed their migrations, prohibited the latter from at- 
 tending the Tartar camps, and obliged them to settle near his own 
 house at Obitochnoe. This measure produced a slight effect. The 
 inconvenience of transporting themselves to any great distance from 
 the supplies, which habit had made necessary to them, compelled the 
 Nogays to contract the circle of their movements ; still their general 
 modes of life remained unaltered : they neither built nor settled, but 
 continued to change the situation of their tents, whenever change of 
 pasture became necessary for their herds. 
 
 The third measure was of a different nature ; for the government, 
 wearied with the ill success of its ineffectual inducements, suddenly 
 issued an order that a line should be drawn round every Tartar en- 
 campment, and that each should be prevented from moving from the 
 
 VOL. II. 3
 
 466 ACCOUNT OF SOME ARMENIAN, 
 
 spot, which it at that time chanced to occupy. This command (al- 
 thouoli on the occasion of a somewhat similar interference in the 
 reign of Katherine II. the whole nation fled, and took refuge in the 
 ranges of Caucasus,) was obeyed. The Nogays were content to in- 
 habit their immoveable camps; and, as their tents decayed, they 
 were even induced, by the rewards and encouragement of govern- 
 ment, to construct houses in their room, and to cultivate a small 
 portion of land. 
 
 There now remained but one step necessary to finish the work 
 which had been so far successful. In 1812, Count IMaison, who, 
 though a solitary Frenchman, in the midst of ill-satisfied hordes of 
 the wildest people in Europe, seems, by his address, to have secured 
 their o-ood-will and respect in a remarkable degree, ventured to order 
 that every tent which remained should be publicly paid for and de- 
 stroyed. He was punctually, though unwillingly, obeyed ; and had 
 thus the satisfaction of accomplishing the hazardous undertaking, 
 which had been entrusted chiefly to his direction and execution. * 
 
 The ulterior and more important consequences of this great experi- 
 ment must remain for some time in uncertainty. Depredations and 
 murder, which were formerly not uncommon, have already become 
 rare among the Nogays ; but this is, of course, rather to be attributed 
 to the stricter superintendance to which they are now subject, than to 
 any permanent change in their national character. In case the 
 government should succeed in directing their attention to settled 
 pursuits of agricultural employment, they will have reason to be 
 grateful for the interfererrce by which so desirable a change may be 
 effected; but at present they seem to have lost the independent 
 spirit which was engendered by their former mode of life, and to have 
 fallen into habits of slovenliness and inactivity, from which public 
 
 * The particular history of these events, and much curious information respecting tlie 
 manners of the Nogay Tartars, are well detailed by Professor Degouroff, of Kharkoff, in a 
 work which deserves to be translated.
 
 GREEK, AND TARTAR SETTLEMENTS. 467 
 
 encouragements, and the prospect of private gain, are but slowly be- 
 ginning to rouse them. 
 
 The male population, at the time of our visit, amounted to 1700, 
 exclusive of the Myrzas and Mullahs ; and the commandant assured 
 me that the number of the whole nation (including the privileged 
 classes, and the women) could not be less than 40,000. They inhabit 
 seventy-three villages*, and cultivate a small quantity of wheat, of 
 which, however, they make little use, living chiefly on preparations 
 of milk in summer, and on flesh in winter. About thirty families 
 have been induced to cultivate potatoes, as an article of food ; and 
 four or five have formed gardens. Nearly all the corn which they 
 raise is sent into the Crimea, whence it is exported from the port of 
 Kosloff. 
 
 Obitochnoe, so called from the name of the small stream on which 
 it stands, has but few Tartar inhabitants. The house of the com- 
 mandant, a wretched bazar, and an Armenian church, are the only 
 buildings of the place. Nothing can be imagined more dreary than 
 the appearance of these few ill-constructed edifices, on the surface of 
 the vast Stepp, whose influence is beginning to cover the flat roof of the 
 mud-built Bazar with as rich a crop of grass as that which so widely 
 encircles it. The shopkeepers of this establishment are chiefly Ar- 
 menians, servants and agents of the merchants of Nachtchivan. They 
 supply the Nogays with tobacco, and with the few manufactured goods 
 which they have learned to use ; deriving, as we were told, no small 
 advantage from their traffic. At one of the shops we tasted the drink 
 called koumiss, which is made by fermenting mare's milk, and is a 
 favovu'ite beverage with the Nogays. It retains the appearance of 
 milk, but has a slightly acid flavour, not unlike that of wine-whey. 
 In the spring, and early part of the summer, it possesses no intoxi- 
 cating power ; but after the great heats have rendered the herbs of 
 
 * Besides these, there is a single village of Russian serfs, the property of the present 
 Ataman of the Don Cossacks, in the vicinity of Obitochnoe. 
 
 3o 2
 
 468 ACCOUNT OF SOME ARMENIAN, 
 
 the Stepp strong and dry, it is said to acquire that property. It is 
 kept in glass bottles, and remains in perfection about a week. The 
 Nogays consider it a stimulant. In the court-yard of the command- 
 ant's house we saw the only remaining specimen of the Nogay tents. 
 It differs from those of the Kalmucks in but one particular ; the 
 latter, when transported, being taken in pieces by means of joints, 
 while the more primitive habitation of the Nogays must be placed 
 upon its cart entire. 
 
 June 18. — On leaving Obitochnoe, we traversed the Stepp with 
 great rapidity, till, at the distance of fifteen versts, we reached the 
 first Tartar village. It consisted of two rows of low hovels, in all 
 about forty, built at regular intervals so as to form what, had there 
 been a track through the middle, might have been called a wide 
 street. The houses were formed of sun-baked bricks, and were 
 thatched with straw. But the most characteristic feature in the scene 
 was the Taboon, or herd of horses, which was assembled on a rising 
 ground near the village. The groupe consisted of not less than two 
 hundred, and was collected about the spot where several foals were 
 tethered by the foot to a single rope, which was fastened at each end 
 to the ground. 
 
 As we drove into the village, we saw the female inhabitants (drest 
 in a bright scarlet costume, with white veils) flying in all directions. 
 The men crowded round us in great numbers, and shewed consider- 
 able curiosity respecting our carriage and its contents, but without 
 rudeness, or any attempt to intrude. 
 
 They were coarsely and dirtily habited in the Oriental Caftan and 
 Eeniche, which latter was shaped more according to the Persian than 
 the Turkish form. Their flat ugly features, and prominent ears, 
 were surmounted by the close skull-cap of lamb's fur, which seems to 
 have been the model of the tiaras of the JNIuscovite Tsars. They 
 wore no pistols ; but I observed that some had knives in their girdles, 
 the handles of which were of jasper. They exhibited some symptoms 
 of alarm when we directed our telescope to their Taboon, considering 
 it, at first, as some kind of firelock ; but as soon as we had explained
 
 GREEK, AND TARTAR SETTLEMENTS. 469 
 
 its use, they were anxious to prove it, and delighted with its powers. 
 Upon our expressing our admiration at the beauty and number of 
 their horses, they eagerly assured us that they were able to maintain 
 twice or three times, as many, before they were compelled to settle. 
 The value of their finest horses is from 500 to 1000 rubles ; and they 
 told us that a Prussian officer had been with them the year before, 
 and had made large purchases for the use of the cavalry. They spoke 
 with disgust of their houses, which they described as receptacles for 
 filth and vermin, and said that many preferred sleeping on the open 
 Stepp to the confinement of their new habitations. They mentioned 
 the commandant, however, with great affection, calling him " father ;" 
 and his order soon procured us a supply of half-tamed horses, which, 
 driven by a Tartar from the box, conducted us rapidly across the 
 Stepp. 
 
 From the neighbourhood of Obitochnoc, we had observed the 
 unusual appearance of a chain of pointed hills rising from the 
 level of the plain ; and we found the next Tartar village situated 
 immediately beneath them. Primitive rock forms the basis of this 
 part of the Stepp, and is very visible in the sides of deep river-courses ; 
 but the Karsak hills form, 1 believe, the only instance in which it 
 protrudes above the flat alluvial surface, and presents what, in such a 
 country, may be almost considered a bold elevation. We ascended 
 the loftiest of these little eminencies, the height of which is not rated 
 by Pallas at more than eight fathoms above the plain, but which, not- 
 withstanding, commands an undisputed prospect over the surround- 
 ing waste. The quartz, of which it is almost entirely composed, is 
 every where pervaded by small black crystals, which, upon analysis, 
 have been found to consist chiefly of iron. The Tartar village, to 
 which we descended, with its slovenly hovels, its Taboon, and its in- 
 habitants, resembled that which we had left behind. Our curiosity- 
 led us to the Mosque, which, as may be supposed, partook of the 
 careless character of the place. Its mud walls and straw roof were 
 full of holes, and its wooden minaret, declining far from the per- 
 pendicular, seemed to render the office of Muezzin one of no incon- 
 siderable danger.
 
 470 ACCOUNT OF SOME ARMENIAN, 
 
 June 19. — An interval of a few versts, and the river Berda, divide 
 the last village of the Nogays from the first of the Prussian JNIenno- 
 nists. The accompanying change of scene was one of the most 
 extraordinary which occurred in our diversified journey ; for the ap- 
 pearance of mercantile activity which enlivens the Bazar of Nacht- 
 chivan is hardly more striking than that of agricultural industry and 
 regularity which surrounds the settlements of these German sectaries. 
 Their villages wear a delightful aspect of neatness and comfort. The 
 clean wooden houses, backed by well-built barns and outhouses, are 
 fronted by small paled gardens, and stand embosomed in orchards of 
 cherry-trees. The hospitable interior of these dwellings, is in unison 
 with the promise of the exterior ; and the surrounding Stepp, by the 
 exertions of the colonists, has been covered with crops of flourishing 
 corn, which reminded us of the richest parts of the Ukraine. These 
 industrious settlers, who came from the neighbourhood of Dantzig, 
 left the Prussian dominions in consequence of being required to bear 
 arms, which is inconsistent with the religious tenets of their sect. 
 They passed into Russia in the summers of 1803 and 1804, were well 
 received by the government, and were presented with the tract of land 
 which they now occupy, covering about forty square miles to the east 
 of the Moloshnia river. Each of them, who declared himself capable 
 of supporting a farm, received a portion of sixty-four desatines (about 
 130 acres) of the Stepp. The others settled as servants and labourers. 
 Their whole population amounts to 2621, (of which number 1334 are 
 males,) and has been increased by 700 since their first arrival. Their 
 villages are nineteen in number, but they have, at present, only two 
 places of worship. They seemed well contented with their situation, 
 and spoke highly of the fertility of the natural soil, which returns, in 
 good years, fifteen for one. They experience no annoyance from the 
 neighbouring Nogays, and complain of nothing but of the dryness of 
 the climate, and of the inroads of wolves upon their flocks. The 
 stock of horned cattle and sheep, which they brought with them, has 
 considerably increased, and fetches high prices in the markets of 
 Russia. They make a kind of coarse linen for their own use, and were 
 about to undertake the manufacture of cloth for the same purpose.
 
 GREEK, AND TARTAR SETTLEMENTS. 471 
 
 They preserve, as much as possible, the usages and language of their 
 country, and, with the exception of a few Russian labourers, have re- 
 ceived no mixture of foreigners into their society. There is another 
 colony of Germans, on the west side of the Moloshnia, who bear an in- 
 different character, and with whom the^Slennonists have no intercourse. 
 
 At the distance of four versts from Altona, the last German village, 
 we crossed the IMoloshnia, a small river, which, like the Berda, and 
 others of this neighbourhood, is choaked at the mouth by the sand 
 which its own stream brings down. Terpenia, which stands on its 
 right bank, is one of eight villages inhabited by the Duchobortzi, or 
 Worshippers of the Spirit, a sect of Russians who reject the use of 
 priests and pictures, and who, after undergoing much persecution, 
 have been collected and settled on this spot, during the reign of the 
 present Emperor. Their population was stated to us at 1500 males. 
 In dress and deportment they did not appear to differ from the com- 
 mon Russians ; but on learning that we were travellers from a distant 
 country, they were eager to manifest to us their hospitality and good- 
 will. They would receive no recompense for the refreshments which 
 we had taken, and even crowded round our carriage with presents of 
 live fowls, sufficient to stock it for several days. We had nothing but 
 money to offer them in return, and this they steadily refused, saying, 
 " God forbid that we should rob a stranger." Their kindness did 
 not even end here ; for just as we were about to drive off, the Starista, 
 or chief peasant, a venerable old man, advanced with solemnity, and 
 publicly presented us with bread in the name of the village. We left 
 Terpenia about nine, with the intention of travelling all night, but 
 were detained by an accident at the Russian village of Kisliar till the 
 next morning. 
 
 June 20. — After driving all day across the Stepp, in which we 
 passed two villages of Krim Tartars, we reached, in the evening, the 
 Russian station of Tonkoi, or Yenitche. This small groupe of mud 
 cottages is situated upon the Strait, which divides the continental 
 portion of Little Tartary from the slender strip of land, called the Pen- 
 insula of Arabat, by which we had determined to enter the Crimea.
 
 472 ARMENIAN, GREEK, AND TARTAR SETTLEMENTS. 
 
 The next morning (June 21), as we crossed the ferry, which is not 
 above one hundred yards in v;idth, we had a good opportunity of 
 noting the appearance of the two opposite shores. On the conti- 
 nental side, a cHfF rises behind the village, to the height of forty or 
 fifty feet, and running eastward along the sea of AzofF, ends in a cape 
 at the distance of about fifteen versts. To the west, the same cliff 
 continues to edge the strait, and the Sivash, or Putrid Sea, is not 
 visible. The view on the Crimean side, (our first specimen of Cri- 
 mean scenery,) is singularly dreary. A marsh, partially inundated, 
 stretches onward to the distance of three or four versts, where the 
 ground slightly rises, and is crowned by a few tumuli. The road 
 which leads to Arabat (a distance of 110 versts) along this narrow 
 tongue of land, lies close to the shore of the sea of Azoff, and is com- 
 posed of the natural soil, which seems to consist chiefly of broken 
 shells. We left a succession of salt lakes on our right, and saw many 
 temporary huts, constructed by the peasants who watch the oxen and 
 broad-tailed sheep, which graze upon this low peninsula. Herons, 
 plovers, and other aquatic birds, superseded the game of the Stepp. 
 At about a third of the distance between Tonkoi and Arabat, we 
 came in sight of the celebrated mountains of the Crimea, rising like 
 a blue cloud before us. Near this spot the peninsula becomes con- 
 siderably narrowei", the two seas are both visible, and the road to 
 Arabat runs between them, along a bank not half a verst in width, the 
 luxuriant herbage of which affords pasture to large droves of Bactrian 
 camels. 
 
 From the little village of Arabat, which derives importance from an 
 antient Tartar fortress, commanding this approach to the Crimea, the 
 distance to Kaffa is only thirty versts.* 
 
 Distances. — From Taganrog to Mariapol 127 versts. 
 
 Mariapol to Obitochnoe 101 
 
 Obitoclinoe to Steinbach 30 
 
 Steinbach to Terpenia 49 
 
 Terpenia to Tonkoi 107 
 
 Tonkoi to Kaffa 140
 
 473 
 
 ON THE SITE OF DODOXA. 
 
 {_CO.UMUXICJT£:i} BY MR. Hjii'iriys.] 
 
 DiffiaiUy of collecting from antient Authors any precise Accounts of the Situation of Dodona. 
 — Ileasons for believing it is to be sought on the confines of Thesprotia and Molossia. — 
 The Route jmrsued by Dr. Holland in this Part of Greece seems to trace the Line xt-hich 
 separates those two Provinces. — A mountainous Pidge, forming a Portion of this Line, is 
 Mount Tomarus, at the foot of which the Temple was placed. — Notice by the Antients of 
 some circumstances xvhich marked the Spot where the Building stood. — The Mountains of 
 Suli con-espond with the Situation of Tomarus. — So?iie Account of the remains (f Greek 
 JVork in Bronze, which were discovered at Paramythia ; forming, probably, part of the 
 consecrated Offerings and Gifts belonging to the Temple of Dodona. — Appropriation of 
 the Names Thyamis and Acheron to the modern Calama, and to the Piver q/' Suli, 
 
 It appears extraordinary, when we consider how long the curiosity 
 of the public has been directed to Greece, and how much has been 
 lately added to our knowledge of that part of the world ; that no 
 traveller can yet boast of having discovered the site of Dodona. 
 The attempt indeed, to explore this venerable spot, in former 
 periods, would have been both hazardous and difficult ; on ac- 
 count of the anarchical state of the country in which it is situated : 
 but since the power, which was before divided among so many rival 
 chieftains, has been concentrated in the hands of one ; the provinces 
 of Epirus have been rendered more accessible : and those travellers 
 who have been induced to put themselves under the protection 
 of Ali Pasha, have had reason to be satisfied with the facilities 
 which were every where afforded to the gratification of their 
 curiosity. It is true that the Pasha is jealous of any political ad- 
 vantages that may be taken of this indulgence ; but he has in no 
 
 VOL. II. 3 P
 
 474 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 
 
 instance that I know of, refused his permission to travellers to visit 
 whatever part of his dominions they pleased ; and has provided well 
 for their personal safety. 
 
 The deficiency however, of our information upon this head, may be 
 satisfactorily accounted for, without imputing any want of zeal, in- 
 dustry, or sagacity to the labours of recent travellers : for, not to dwell 
 upon the entire destruction of the temple at Dodona by *Dorimachus, 
 the antients have left us in a deplorable state of ignorance respect- 
 ing its precise situation. 
 
 This want of information appears to have been felt at a very early 
 period ; for Strabo, who is in general our best guide in the geography 
 of these countries, deems it even necessary, before he treats of Epirus, 
 to make some apology for it.-j- He says, " In former times there 
 was no gi'eat difficulty in distinguishing the boundaries of these states, 
 although they were so numerous :};, so small, and of so little note ; 
 for they were well peopled, and each had a kingly government. 
 But now that in most of these states the cities are razed to the ground, 
 and the country stripped of its inhabitants §, were it even possible to 
 ascertain their boundaries, it would be useless to do it ; for they 
 have ceased to have any political existence. The work of destruction 
 commenced long ago ; yet it may be said that it is still going on in 
 some districts, as a necessary result of the revolts which have taken 
 place there ; for the country being in consequence of them occupied 
 in great force by the Romans, their soldiei's are quartered upon the 
 inhabitants. I| According to the testimony of Polybius, Paulus iEmi- 
 lius, after the defeat of Perseus and the Macedonians, destroyed 
 
 * TiugwysvofX.svoi hi tt^o; to Trsgi Aooioovriv Ugov, raf re ^oa; IvsTrgrjcre, xa) TraXXa. Tcov avci^rj- 
 fLUTiav SiEpSstgr" Ka.Tk<iKa'\ie 8e xai tyjV Uqotv oixi'av. Polyb. lib. iv. c. (iT . 
 
 f Lib. vii. c. 3. p. 322. Tlie literal sense of this passage being rather obscure, I have 
 entleavoured to convey the sense of it by a free translation. 
 
 \ They amounted to fourteen, according to Thcopompus, whose authority is here 
 quoted by Strabo. P. 324. 
 
 § Karoixiiv said to be the true reading. See the notes to the French Strabo.
 
 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 475 
 
 seventy cities of Epirus, (the greater part of them belonging to the 
 JNIolossians,) and carried off in slavery one hundred and fifty thousand 
 of their inhabitants." 
 
 Again, at the conclusion of his account of Epirus, (which is little 
 more than a description of the coast, and a brief enumeration of the 
 towns contiguous to it,) and previous to his account of Dodona, which 
 is purely historical ; he says : " Formerly, as 1 have already remarked, 
 the whole of Epirus and of Illyria, notwithstanding the rudeness of 
 their soil*, and the high mountains with which they are filled, such 
 as the Tomarus, the Polyanus, and many others, were yet well 
 peopled ; but now they are, for the most part, a perfect desert ; and 
 the few inhabitants that remain either live in hamlets, or are dis- 
 persed among theruins. f The Oracle, too, of Dodona has somehow 
 or other disappeared, as well as the rest." '^ 
 
 After the citation of this testimony, which would alone justify our 
 ignorance at this day of the site of Dodona ; I shall again observe, 
 that neither in the work of Strabo, or in that of any other antient 
 geographer or historian, have we any precise indication where it is to 
 be sought for ; nor could the little information which they have trans- 
 mitted to us, be of any use ; until we had acquired some knowledge of 
 the interior of the country. § It is with the assistance derived from 
 this source, that I have again examined and compared the imperfect 
 notices of the antients, and have endeavoured to form some conjecture 
 with regard to the site of Dodona, which might lead to its discovery. 
 
 It appears to me to result most clearly from the collected testi- 
 
 f Here Mr. Go.sselin, one of the Editors of the French Strabo, justly observes: " Si 
 Strabon cprouvoit deja tant de difficultes pour debrouiller la geographie de la Grece, que 
 dire apres dixhuit siecles de nouvellcs destructions, quand les traces de ses anciens peuples, 
 les ruines de ses anciennes viiles, et jusqu' aux denominations des lieux, sont effacces pour 
 jamais." 
 
 :j: 'ExXsXoiTTS Bs TTio: xxi TO jxetvTelov TO Iv Aui^wvY,, xubxtr=g TaKKoL. P. 32/. 
 
 § D'Anville in his map of ancient Greece, particularly notices this want of information 
 respecting the interior of Epirus. 
 
 3p 2
 
 ^^Q ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 
 
 mony of the antlents, that the Oracle of Jupiter at Dodoiia tc-as situ- 
 ated on the confines of Thesprotia and Mohssia ; for although it be 
 true that some authors place it in one of these countries, and some in 
 another, while some attribute it indifferently to both*; yet all this is 
 satisfactorily explained by Strabo, who tells us, " Dodona was origin- 
 ally under the sovereignty of the Thesprotians, as well as Mount To- 
 marus, (according to others Tmarus,) at the foot of which the temple 
 is situated ; for both the Tragic poets and Pindar bestow the epithet of 
 Thesprotian on Dodona. Subsequently, however, Dodona passed 
 under the sovereignty of the Molossians ;" for which he accounts in 
 another place by observing, that the preponderance of the latter arose 
 from the consantruinity {(TDyyivtwi/) of their princes who were of the 
 family of the iEacida^. 
 
 Thesprotia, according to the testimony both of Scylax and of 
 Strabo, occupied the very fertile maritime district of Epirus, which 
 extends from the Acroceraunian mountains (now called Tchimara) to 
 the mouth of the Ambracian Gulf; for the most southern extremity 
 of this district, although distinguished by the name of Cassopia, be- 
 lono-ed nevertheless, as Strabo remarks, to Thesprotia. Molossia, on 
 the other hand, occupied the mediterranean tract of country to the 
 eastward, as far as the Arethon or Arachthus, touching only a small 
 part of the sea-coast in the Ambracian gulf, and extending northerly 
 as far at least as the parallel of Thesprotia. This country appears to 
 have been wholly mountainous ; for Strabo, speaking of the Molos- 
 sians, and the neighbouring states on jNIount Pindus, represents them 
 as Tpccx'^~°''V oiK^vTeg x^^oci'.j 
 
 Havino- now acquired some idea of the situation of Dodona, in 
 respect to its longitude ; we must have recourse for more precise in- 
 formation to a traveller, who, in his route from the Ambracian Gulf 
 through the heart of Epirus, appears to have traced out very ac- 
 
 * It is placed by Herodotus in Thesprotia, attributed by ^schylus indifferently to 
 Molossia and Thesprotia ; again, by later writers, such as Pliny and Stephanus Byzantinus, 
 to Molossia. 
 
 \ Lib. vii. p. 255.
 
 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. ^^^ 
 
 curately the line of demarcation between the two provinces, in which 
 we are to look for it. 
 
 The traveller who conveys to us this valuable information, and 
 whose work is on many other accounts entitled to my warmest com- 
 mendation, is Dr. Holland. As far as Luro, which lies about twelve 
 miles to the north of Prevesa, and precisely at the north-western 
 angle of the great plains which border on the Ambracian gulf, Dr. Hol- 
 land travelled through the antient Cassopia; the interval between 
 the sea-coast and the line of his route gradually widening as he ad- 
 vanced. * His course from hence, for several miles, was throuoh a 
 broken irregular country, thickly covered with wood. After this, he 
 says, he entered an open valley, stretching in a northerly direction for 
 ten miles ; a stream descending through it to join the river of Luro. 
 Passing a low ridge beyond this valley, he came to the banks of a 
 stream running in an opposite direction from south to north, to join 
 the river of Suli. Two miles farther on he reached this river, which, 
 descending from the north-west through a valley of considerable 
 width, makes at this place a sudden and remarkable bend towards the 
 north, and enters by a narrow pass the wild and magnificent region of 
 Suli. — From the place where he reached its banks, and crossed the 
 river, to the castle of Suli, and the plains of Paramythia ; the scenery 
 along its course was altogether more singular than any that lie had 
 seen in Greece. In the description of his difficult ascent up these 
 mountains, to the new Seraglio of the Pasha, he says, — " In one view 
 you may trace the progress of the river for six or seven miles, between 
 mountains, some of which are upwards of three thousand feet in hei"ht- 
 their precipitous sides beginning to rise even from the edge of the 
 water," &c. He continued his route, for about four miles, throuo-h 
 this extraordinary valley, by a rugged path, which winds alone the de- 
 clivities, and then turned to the right, to gain by a very circuitous 
 route the insulated heights upon which stood the fortresses, in one of 
 which is the Seraglio. " From the great gallery of this building," he 
 
 * Tlie sea-coast taking a direction to tlie north-west.
 
 478 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 
 
 says, " you look down a precipice, not much less, probably, tlian a 
 thousand feet in height, into the dark waters of the Acheron below." 
 (How correct he is in the appropriation of this classical name, will be 
 seen hereafter.) " Towards the south, and over the peaked summits 
 which environ the Seraglio, is seen the long chasm-like channel 
 through which it flows ; beyond it, the country stretching down to 
 the gulf of Arta ; the gulf itself, and the mountains of Acarnania, in 
 the remote distance. To the west, you look down precipices inter- 
 sected by deep ravines, to that point in the river, where, receiv- 
 ing the stream of Zagouri from the north, it turns at once to the 
 west ; and continuing its course for some way between cliffs of im- 
 mense height, makes a sudden exit from its confined channels into 
 the wide and fertile plains of Paramythia. Its windings through 
 these plains may be traced, while the distant landscape embraces the 
 sea and chains of hills stretching along the coast. The view towards 
 the north is full of the finest mountain-scenery. It is, in fact, a vast 
 amphitheatre of mountains, the space within them being every where 
 intersected by ridges and profound ravines. Through the principal 
 of these ravines flows the river Zagouri," &c. From the place where 
 the river issues from these defiles. Dr. H. computes the distance of 
 Porto Fanari, where it joins the sea, at from sixteen to twenty miles, 
 in a south-westerly direction. Here he crossed the river. " From 
 this place to the city of Paramythia is five hours' journey, (about 
 seventeen miles,) in a northerly direction, along the broad valley 
 through which the river of Paramythia flows, to join that of Suli. 
 This valley, the breadth of which varies from three to five miles, is 
 fertile and well cultivated ; the produce chiefly maize, wheat, rice, to- 
 bacco, &c. Its boundary on the eastern side is the range of the Suli 
 mountains continued towards the north, and forming a continuous line of 
 precipices of vast height : on the western side, a chain of hills much 
 less lofty, but terminating somewhat abruptly towards the valley." — 
 " The city of Paramythia is situated near the upper extremity of the 
 plain, on the lower part of the mountains which form its eastern 
 boundary." — " These mountains," he says, " rise to a great height
 
 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 479 
 
 above It." — " The river," he adds, " has its sources in a north-west di- 
 rection from Paramythia, at the head of the valley," i. e. at the foot 
 of the hills which divide it from that of the Calama." From the 
 spot where he forded the Calama, in his way to Sullopia, " the view 
 up the valley is very striking ; its boundaries, particularly on the east 
 side, being formed by the precipices, which may be considered as 
 terminating in this direction the range of the Suli mountains." 
 
 After a description so circumstantial as to include every thing which 
 is essential, and yet so clear and comprehensive as to set the whole 
 face of the country before us ; we may be permitted to form a very 
 confident opinion on somp points of its antient denomination, which 
 are connected with this enquiry. 
 
 The first point, which I think established, is, that the whole line of 
 Dr. Holland's route follows pretty accurately the boundaries of IMo- 
 lossia and Thesprotia, as far as they were contiguous. It has been 
 already shown, that in this line stood Dodona. If we admit this as 
 sufficiently established, it will follow, that the mountainous ridge, "nhich 
 constitutes a great jwrtion of this line, can be no other than the Tomarus, 
 at the foot of -which we must look for the remains of the temple. To o^og 
 
 Tof/.KDog, v(p u xtTrcci to Uoou. * 
 
 The spot where the temple stood is farther characterized or de- 
 signated by the marshes, which, according to Apollodorus, (cited by 
 Strabof ,) were contiguous to it ; " 'Atto tuv eXuv rm Trep* ro U^ov :" and 
 by a remarkable ebbing and flowing source of water, which at mid- 
 day was constantly dry, and at midnight at its full height, increasing or 
 decreasing every day from one of these exti'emes to the other. X The 
 waters, too, of this spring had the property of lighting extinguished 
 torches, when held at a certain distance. § This, perhaps, was the 
 same spring as that which, according to Servius {|, rose at the very 
 foot of the sacred oak ; the U^a, t? ^ea" <pyiyoq : which tree we may 
 
 • Strabo, lib. vii. p. 505. f Lib. vii. p. 32/. 
 
 X Plin. lib. ii. c. 103. j JNIela, lib. ii. c. 3. 
 
 II In Mn. 1. iii. v. 46G.
 
 480 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 
 
 conclude, on the authority of the Prodromus to the Flora Graven, 
 to be of the species distinguished by the name of Quercus yEsculus. 
 As for the broad extended valley to the westward of the ridge of 
 Suli, which Dr. Holland describes as so fertile and well cultivated ; it 
 appears to be the same district which, under the denomination of 
 Hellopia, was celebrated for its fertility in very antient times. * 
 
 It may be thought by some, that a situation such as that which is 
 here pointed out, does not perfectly accord with the Homeric epi- 
 thet, ^'va-xeTuif'og-f, if it be true that Homer speaks here of the Do- 
 dona of Epirus, and not of that which was in Thessaly, as some of his 
 commentators have supposed. A situation, however, whether high or 
 low, which was contiguous to the high-lands of Epirus, must have 
 been always characterised by a great severity of cold in winter. 
 
 Had the very enterprising and intelligent traveller, whose descrip- 
 tion of this country I have quoted, examined the base of the whole 
 ridge, from the banks of the river of Suli to Paramythia ; (an extent of 
 about seventeen miles,) nothing would have remained to be said upon 
 this subject, for his information would have been decisive of the 
 question : but as he has not done this, we may be allowed to form 
 our own opinion. Nor would it be fair to blame him for this omis- 
 sion ; for those who have travelled through countries so misgoverned, 
 well know how many circumstances conspire to thwart the execution 
 of the best laid plans of research. | 
 
 It appears, however, that Dr. Holland himself had at one time 
 adopted this opinion ; for, speaking of his intended excursion down 
 the river Calama, he says, that the principal motive for his journey 
 
 'EvSa'Ss Aa)Scu») Tif Itt' i(r^ci.Tirf TrsTroAifai. — Hesiod. 
 
 f Catal. V. 256. 
 
 \ Such, for instance, are, the distance of night-quarters, the shortness of the days at 
 the period of Dr. H.'s journey, the extreme bad state of the roads, the swollen state of the 
 rivers, the miserable condition of the horses, and, lastly, the ill humour and the interested 
 misrepresentations of the guides and guards.
 
 ON THE SITE OF DODON'A. 481 
 
 was an idea he then had, that the site of the Oracle of Dodona was to 
 be sought for in this part of Epirus. * Nor does it appear that he 
 had sufficiently examined the country around Paramythia, before he 
 relinquished this opinion ; for he says, " In two or three places, 
 within a few miles of the city, there are the remains of ruined 
 walls, indicating the situation of some of the antient towns or castles 
 of Epirus. I had an opportunity of seeing only one of these places, 
 about four miles to the south of the city." 
 
 Had Dr. Holland succeeded in the enquiries which he here made, 
 respecting the spot, where, about twenty years before, those celebrated 
 works in bronze were found, which are now in England ; it is probable 
 that this would have conducted him to the very site of Dodona : for 
 the discovery was certainly made in the district here spoken of It 
 may be of^ome importance, therefore, to this enquiry, to state the 
 circumstances of that event, as far as they are known to me. 
 Shortly after my arrival at Yanina, in the month of June, 1795, I 
 received as a present from a merchant of that city, Deraetrio Vassili, 
 a bronze figure of a Mercurv, in the most finished stile of Greek 
 workmanship. I learnt, upon enquiry, that it had been brought 
 thither about two years before, together with many other bi'onze 
 figures of equal beauty, from Paramythia ; in which neighbourhood, 
 and at the same period, they were all found : that the person 
 in whose possession they were, being ignorant of their real value, 
 had disposed of them to a brazier, from whose furnace the greater 
 part had been luckily rescued by a Greek, who having seen some- 
 thing of this kind in the museum of a person of rank at Moscow, 
 immediately conceived the idea of converting them into an object of 
 profitable speculation. With this view, he is said to have purchased 
 the whole collection (the jMercury excepted) for a mere trifle above 
 the value of the metal, and to have conveyed them soon afterwards to 
 Moscow. My friends at Yanina highly extolled the beauty of their 
 
 • Vide p. 252. of vol. ii. 2d edition. 
 
 VOL. ir. 3 Q
 
 482 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 
 
 workmanship, and their fine state of" preservation ; and as they ap- 
 pealed as a standard of comparison to the Mercury, I felt the most 
 lively regret at not having visited Yanina a twelvemonth or two 
 earlier.* 
 
 The discovery of such a rich deposit of works of art awakened in 
 me, as may be easily conceived, a suspicion that they had belonged 
 to the treasures of the Temple of Dodona, and had been secreted, 
 perhaps, for their security, at the time when it was plundered by 
 Dorimachus. Paramythia was, therefore, that district of Epirus 
 which, above all others, I felt most anxious to explore ; and I re- 
 quested Ali Pasha, who had distinguished me by his hospitable re- 
 ception, as the first English traveller who had visited his capital ; to 
 grant me an escort thither. He refused however, stating as the true 
 reason why he could not comply with my wishes, that being then on 
 terms of hostility with the Paramythiotes, it was not in his power to 
 ensure my personal safety. He insisted therefore, on my relinquish- 
 ing all thoughts of this expedition, f Nor was it less mortifying 
 to be obliged to renounce the idea of visiting Paramythia, some 
 time after this, when T had an opportunity of doing it with perfect 
 safety. This was in May, 1798, when T met at Yanina the heads of 
 the principal Mussulman families of Paramythia, who were then 
 ratifying the peace which they had just made with the Pasha ; and, 
 upon that occasion, kindly offered me every accommodation : but I 
 was then on my way to Durazzo ; and a delay, even of a few days, 
 would have prevented me from reaching the place of my intended 
 embarkation in time to effect the passage of the Adriatic ; as was 
 proved by an attempt made by the commander of the French marine 
 force at Corfu to intercept me. 
 
 Subsequently to my first visit to Yanina, I learned that there is a 
 
 * It was at the period of my subsequent visit in 1798 that I purchased that exquisite 
 specimen of the opus ccelatum wliich represents Paris and Helen. It had been discovered 
 at the same place a year or two before my arrival. 
 
 f The distance of Paramythia from Yanina is twelve hours, or from thirty to thirty-five 
 miles directly west.
 
 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 433 
 
 spot near Paramythia called Aidona, where there are some ruins in 
 the Hellenic stile, and great sources of water. This name will 
 naturally suggest to my readers an idea of its derivation, corroborative 
 of the opinion which I had formed on other grounds, of its connection 
 with Dodona : but upon looking into the geography of jNIeletius, I 
 find what I had almost suspected. " Kag-fov tS 'Ayia Aovxtov, to ottoTov 
 Koci Uocfctfiu^toc. XeyiTcci, kxi Cttc tuv Toupjcwv 'Atcovix. Aidona, therefore, 
 may be no other than a corruption of Agios Donatus, under which 
 name two forts in the antient Epirus, are mentioned by Procopius ; 
 although the authority of JNIeletius is by no means to be trusted, 
 either in this or in any other matter. It is astonishing that this man, 
 who composed for the information of his countrymen a work of 
 general geography, should have known so little of Epirus, although a 
 native of Yanina, as not to be able to point out the true situation of 
 Dodona. And yet he treats largely of the temple, and even says that 
 the city of Dodona was still known under the name of Dodon : ■^ ttoXi? 
 AwSuv^, eXeyijo dy.o[j.i Kcii Au)^u)v. \i, at the distance of a century only 
 from the time of Meletius, no place in Epirus is now known by this 
 name ; we may safely conclude that his assertion was merely gra- 
 tuitous. 
 
 It is however, true that some antient authors make mention of 
 Dodona as a city ; and not many years ago an inscription was found 
 in the island of Corfu, which thus designates it. The name of Do- 
 dona, too, appears to have been appropriated either to a city or to a 
 district of Epirus ; for some centuries after the destruction of the 
 temple : for it occurs in the Synecdemus of Hierocles ; and one of its 
 bishops, Theodorus, subscribed to the council of Ephesus. Procopius, 
 too, mentions the ravages committed by the Goths in the country 
 around Dodona. * 
 
 I had constantly in view, during my first visit to Epirus, the dis- 
 
 • After speaking of the devastation which they had committed at Corfu, he adds, Zia- 
 NixoTToXi'v T8 xai 'AJ^^ia-oi'. Among the castella rcfecta veteris Epiri he mentions loufiviavoo- 
 
 3q 2
 
 484 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 
 
 covery of the site of Dodona ; and I can truly say that I neglected 
 no means of effecting it. The mountains of Suli appeared to me 
 to correspond best with the situation of the antient Tomarus ; but 
 such was the state of hostility at that period, between the natives of 
 this district and Ali Pasha, that I could not court the protection, or 
 experience the hospitality of the one, without forfeiting all claims to 
 the favour of the other ; and the protection of the Pasha was then ab- 
 solutely necessary to the success of my ulterior views in Thessaly. 
 
 Having stated my own opinion on the site of Dodona, and the 
 foundation upon which it rests ; I shall now revert to that of 
 Dr. Holland, which, with all the respect due to it, will be found to 
 be eri'oneous. " A careful reference," says he, " to the passages in 
 which it is mentioned by antient writers, has led me to believe that 
 the real situation was to the south or south-east of Joannina, and 
 underneath the great mountain of Tzumerka. * This mountain, the 
 position of which has already been referred to, I consider to have 
 been the Tomarus of antiquity, below which, according to Strabo, 
 stood the temple of Dodona." In another paragraph, he places it 
 eastward of the river of Arta, or the Arachthus : a situation, doubtless, 
 very appropriate to an oracle, as far as regards the wild character of 
 the scenery around it ; but I could hear of no ruins there ; and the 
 base of Tzumerka extending to a very short distance from Arta, the 
 antient Ambracia ; has pent up the channel of this impetuous river 
 within very naiTow dimensions. There is, consequently, no room for 
 a marsh ; nor does the situation correspond in other respects with 
 what we know of Dodona. It is a singular coincidence, however, 
 that I should once have entertained hopes of finding Dodona in this 
 direction. I had heard, when at Yanina, of some remains of an- 
 tiquity, under the name of Tomaro-castro ; and hastily inferred, from 
 this name, that the mountain on which they were situated might be 
 the antient Tomarus. The distance of this spot from Yanina is about 
 
 • loannina and Tzumerka, according to the Romaic orthography, but Yanina and Ju- 
 merka, according to the true pronunciation.
 
 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 4g5 
 
 fourteen miles to the southward. I found myself here upon the edge 
 of a declivity which overlooks the deep alpine vale of the Arachthus. 
 The situation derives some interest from a tower of antient Greek 
 construction, which is in tolerable preservation ; but there are no 
 other remains of antiquity to be seen here. A small elevated plain 
 extends to the westward, the villages around which are distinguished 
 by the appellation of Tomaro-choria ; but my friends at Yanina were 
 of opinion that it arose from the Romaic word To;-ta'p/, which signifies 
 cordovan leather, for the manufacture of which these villaffes were 
 once celebrated. I climbed the highest eminence above this plain, 
 which lay to the southward of it ; but in whatever direction I turned 
 my eves, I could discover no other features in the view but those 
 of a mountainous character. After all my enquiries, I could hear 
 of no mountain in the southern parts of Epirus which still bears the 
 name of Tomarus ; but on my route to Durazzo, in the year 1798, I 
 observed a very lofty and insulated mountain to the south-east of Berat, 
 which is called Tof^np (Tomoor). The situation, however, of this 
 mountain is too far to the northward to admit of the possibility of its 
 being the Tomarus of antiquity. 
 
 To return to tlie hypothesis which I was examining, that Dodona 
 lay to the eastward of the Arachthus : I find no direct authority for the 
 assertion ; but there is much reason to believe, that the deep alpine vale 
 of the Arachthus divided Molossia from the petty states on Blount 
 Pindus, which are mentioned by Strabo and others as lying to the 
 eastward of it ; the most considerable of which were the Athamanii. 
 The river itself is described by Strabo as flowing from JNIount Tymphe ; 
 and its sources are very correctly placed by him at no great distance 
 from those of the Peneus : it is plain, therefore, that jVlount Tymphe 
 can be no other than Jumerka. Now the Tymphoeans composed one 
 of the petty states which I have alluded to. Ambracia, too, which is 
 called by Dicaearchus Trjg'EXKcc^og i TTfurrj ttoXic, stood on the left bank of 
 the river lower down j and it is likewise placed by two other early Greek
 
 486 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 
 
 writers beyond the confines of Molossia. * The cause of its having 
 been subsequently ascribed to Epirus is very clearly explained by 
 Paulmier. " Inter Epiroticas civitates censebatur ab eo tempore quo 
 Pyrrhus a, Demetrio Poliorceta earn civitatem obtinuerat, auxilii lati 
 pretium, quod narrat Plutarchus in Pyrrho. Et sic facta est Epiri 
 urbs primaria, caput regni et Pyrrhi regia." 
 
 It is in vain, therefore, to seek for Dodona to the eastward of Am- 
 bracia, (the modern Arta,) nor is there a better chance of finding it, 
 in this parallel of latitude, to the westward of that city. Mela speaks 
 of the Ambracian Gulf as chiefly distinguished by Actium, Argia 
 Amphilochis, and Ambracia. f No notice is taken of Nicopolis, for 
 he seems constantly to have had in his eye the more antient state of 
 Greece. Would he not have mentioned Dodona, had it been in the 
 vicinity of those cities ? Strabo, too, would not have omitted it in 
 this part of his geography, had it been so near the gulf. But the 
 very accurate examination which I made of this part of Epirus en- 
 ables me to speak with the greater confidence on this point. | I shall 
 conclude, therefore, what I have to say upon a question which still 
 remains to be decided by some future traveller, by referring to Poly- 
 bius, who, in the account which he gives of the irruption of the Aeto- 
 lians under Dorimachus, speaks of the superior parts of Epirus only, 
 as the scene of their devastation. " 'EvB!2oiXsv ilg tov; ccvu tottcvs rrjg 
 
 HTTEipou, Koii r%v ^ufidv earjov, ^xjfjuy.UTipov ■^puf/.ivot; tv >:(x.Tcit!pBo pa,. 
 
 The subject of the preceding enquiry has naturally led me to con- 
 sider that of the Thyamis and the Acheron. 
 
 * MsTa 8e MoXoTliav A/iSg«xia TroXij 'EXArju'j. Scylax. 
 Msra t5; MoAoT78f 8e ' AjW./3gax(a Kogjvdfcov 
 "Attodcoj Ij-i'v. Scyinnus Chins, v. 452. 
 f In Epiro nihil Ambracio sinu nobilius est. Facit sinus, qui angustis faucibus, et qua; 
 minus mille passibus pateant, grande pelagus admittit. Faciunt urbes quae assidunt ; 
 Actium, Argia Amphilochis, Ambracia, Aeacidarum regna Pyrrhi(]ue. 
 
 X I made a trigonometrical survey of the gulf from twenty different stations.
 
 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 4g7 
 
 There are two rivers of some note, which discharge themselves into 
 
 &^ 
 
 the sea opposite to Corfu. The northernmost of these, called the Ca- 
 lama, is the largest ; it rises from a small lake, which lies at the 
 distance of about forty miles north from Yanina. The southern has 
 its source in the mountainous district of Suli, to the west of that city. 
 One of these rivers must be the Thyamis, the other the Acheron. 
 The difficulty lies in the appropriation of their names ; for theantient 
 authorities are too confused and inexplicit to enable us to decide. 
 The best information that I can find among them is contained in the 
 following passage of Thucydides, (1- !•) • " 'Oiu.'^ovToci l? Xitf/.e^m Tiiji 
 
 QiO-TTcuTtSog yyjg' ig-i Se X/jH^c, xoii ttoXij UTTsp ccVTOU KsTrai oltso ^a.\a.<T<jy\q, ev TV 
 EXocioiTtSi T^f Qea-VQUTtSog 'E(pv^yi. l^iricn cl ttx^ ornrriv A^ef^io-mc Xtf^vrj t<; Tiju 
 ^ciXata-a-av' ^tat Je Tvjg Qeo'vpuTtSoc A%£fwi/ -TTOTocfMO? '^euv ia-ficcXXii £j ccuTyjv, a(p' 
 
 OU Xa* TIJf tTTtilVUUlCiV £%£'. p£' OB XUt fc)L/«jl*(? ■nOTUflOq, OgtC^UV Tr,V KyCCTTfUTlOOC XUI 
 
 Ketrrglv^v, Zv IvTog -^ axpa ocvix,^i to'' Xitfii^iov." Here we have a promontory 
 of Thesprotia between two rivers, one of which passes through a lake 
 which is not far from the sea ; and the other forms the boundary of 
 Thesprotia and Cestrinia. The former answers to the description of 
 the river of Suli, for that alone has a communication with a maritime 
 lake or marsh ; consequently the other must be the Thyamis : and 
 this appropriation of the two antient names accords best with the di- 
 rection in which the writer proceeds in the course of his narrative, 
 which is from south to north. But the limits of Thesprotia are 
 placed by other writers far to the northward of this line. It is there- 
 fore probable that Cestrinia, if it formed not like Cassopia a subdi- 
 vision of Thesprotia, may have been a district which varied its limits, 
 and occupied more or less of the right bank of the Thyamis, accord- 
 ing to political circumstances. Pausanias says, that Cestrinus, the son 
 of Helenus, took possession of rrjv vttb^ Quai/.iv TroTuf/.cv %wpxi', " the 
 country beyond or to the north of the Thyamis," which country, ac- 
 cording to Stephanus Byzantinus, was a part of Thesprotia. " Ka/*- 
 
 Strabo's account of this part of the coast is shorter and less satis- 
 factory. The order of his description is from north to south : " "EmiTx
 
 488 ON THE SITE OF DODONA. 
 
 axox Xef//.efiiov Kut rXu>ivg XifirjV, eigov e[^j2(xXXst o A^sfuv 7roTcty.og, obuv ez rrj^ 
 
 ^7i Se xa\ Qvuf^ig ttAijct/ov." There is nothing here which is irreconcilable 
 with the more full account given by Thucydides ; but there is an 
 omission of the circumstance of the Acheron flowing into the lake ; 
 the position of which is moreover so undetermined as to leave us in 
 doubt whether the Acheron had its source in the lake, or merely 
 flowed through it. \Vhoever reads this passage of Strabo, as 1 did, 
 before he has consulted any other antient authority, would immedi- 
 ately conclude that the Acheron took its rise from a lake far inland, 
 and in its long course to the sea was joined by several other rivers : 
 Pliny gives it even a course of 36 M. P. from the lake to the sea. 
 
 We must recur, therefore, to a much older writer, whose account of 
 this coast, short as it is, seems to confirm and explain the particulars 
 given by Strabo. 'EvtxCBix eg-i Xtfirjv, u hvof^cn ' EAea. Et'g toutov tov Xif^ieva 
 TTOTocf^og e^trjcriv 'A^bouv, koh XijAVV) A^s^actu, e^ r,g o 'A^epuv psi TfOTUfjiog, 
 
 (Scylax.) And this sense is confirmed by the words of Livy, which 
 are probably borrowed from the lost books of Polybius ; " et Acheronte 
 amne, queni ex Molosside fluentem, in stagna inferna accipit Thes- 
 protius sinus." The result of this enquiry fully establishes the opinion 
 of Dr. Holland, that the river of Suli is the Acheron of antiquity. 
 The Calama, therefore, can be no other than the Thyamis. * 
 
 * Dr. Holland seems doubtful whether Arta stands on the site of Ambracia; the same 
 suspicion is entertained by others, (see the French translation of Strabo,) but its distance 
 from the shore of the gulf is precisely that which is given bj' Scylax; " uttsx-^ ^^ ""'''1 
 aTTO SaXarl)); faSia tt'. "Efi Ss xa( eTri ■SaAaTTyjf rei^^oj, xai Aijti^v xdXXifo;." As for the 
 fortress of Ambracus, to which he is inclined to refer the old walls of Arta, I discovered 
 it in the marshes, a little to the westward of the mouth of the Arachthus, where it is now 
 known by the name of Fido-castro. 
 
 I am sorry to differ on so many points of antient geography from a traveller whose 
 judgment in other respects is so correct ; but I cannot help observing in this place, that 
 the ruins at the south-eastern extremity of this gulf, which Dr. H. conjectures to be those 
 of Stratus, belong unquestionably to Argos Amphilochicum ; and that I found the ruins 
 of Stratus precisely where they are placed by Polybius, on the right bank of the Achelous.
 
 489 
 
 LETTER FROM THE EARL OF ABERDEEN 
 
 TO THE EDITOR, 
 RELATING TO SOME STATEMENTS MADE BY M. R. ROCHETTE, 
 
 IN HIS LATE WORK, 
 
 ON THE AUTHENTICITY OF THE INSCRIPTIONS OF FOURMONT. 
 
 Dear Walpole, Argyll House, Sept. 1819. 
 
 I HAVE recently seen a work, by M. Raoul Rochette, on the authen- 
 ticity of the pretended inscriptions of Fourmont, which, in the form 
 of two letters, he has done me the honour to address to me. * As 
 my communication in your former volume, relative to the marbles 
 brought by me from the neighbourhood of Amyclse, appears to have 
 procured for me this honour, perhaps the author will forgive me if I 
 direct the short reply which I think it necessary to make to these 
 dissertations, through the medium of your present publication. 
 
 It is not my intention to prolong the controversy on a subject, the 
 merits of which have been long since decided to the satisfaction, as I 
 had imagined, of every judicious scholar in Europe. For although 
 I am ready to bear testimony to the learning and ingenuity which 
 M. Rochette has exhibited in supporting his opinions, I cannot admit 
 that any reasonable doubts have been raised in favour of the Abbe 
 Fourmont's veracity, or that we should hesitate to consider his pro- 
 ductions as any thing but a tissue of fraud and imposture.' The chief 
 object I have in view, is to notice certain misapprehensions into which 
 
 • Deux Lettres a My Lord Comte d' Aberdeen, sur I'nuthenticite des inscriptions de 
 Fourmont. Paris, 1819. 
 
 VOL. II. a R
 
 490 LETTER RESPECTING 
 
 the author has fallen respecting what I had myself written, and which, 
 if not corrected, might probably very much mislead those who attempt 
 to form an impartial judgment on this question. The greater part of 
 M. Rochette's work consists of an attempt to answer the objections 
 so ably and so conclusively urged by Mr. Knight, in his Analysis of 
 the Greek Alphabet, against the supposed genuineness of these in- 
 scriptions. But as no man is more eminently qualified to do justice 
 to the whole subject, if he think fit, than Mr. Knight, 1 shall only 
 state my own conviction, without taking the matter out of his hands, 
 that although some unimportant errors may have been detected in his 
 work, there has been absolutely nothing adduced at all calculated to 
 invalidate the main arguments by which he arrived at that conclusion 
 which is now so generally adopted by the learned world. 
 
 It appeared to me, that the marbles which I discovered in the 
 neighbourhood of Amyclge,. afforded an additional proof, if any were 
 wanting, of the little reliance to be placed on the assertions of the 
 Abbe Fourmont. M. Rochette entertains a different opinion, and 
 thinks, on the contrary, that they furnish an important testimony in 
 favour of the veracity of this calumniated traveller. 
 
 You will recollect that one of his principal discoveries in Greece 
 was the temple of the Goddess Onga, at Amyclae, in which the 
 marbles in question were deposited. * This temple he described as 
 a species of grotto, about sixteen feet long and ten feet wide in the 
 inside, the pavement of which consisted of a single stone ; four other 
 stones composed the four sides of the building. It was covered also 
 by one stone, above which were placed two more, one upon the other, 
 and these formed the roof. The work was rude, and the materials 
 of a black colour. The door was not more than four feet high, and 
 was wrought in the stone which formed the front. The whole rested 
 on three steps, each also of a single stone sixteen inches high, and 
 which, properly speaking, made the foundation of the Temple. 
 
 * Mem. de I'Acad. des Inscr. et Belles Lettres, torn. xv. p. 402.
 
 THE INSCRIPTIONS OF FOURMONT. 49 1 
 
 Those blocks, which formed the sides and roof, were five feet thiclc. 
 On the front of this building was inscribed, Oyxi iKBTs^tceoxrteg. This 
 strange name of Iketerkerateans, he found it necessary to give to the 
 Lacedaemonians, because he supposes the temple itself to have been 
 built before the age of Lacedasmon ; indeed, it is not clear from his 
 description, if he does not intend to state that the name of Eurotus, 
 the father of Lacedaemon, appears in the dedication. He has been 
 •thus understood by the Abbe Barthelemy, although M. Rochette 
 denies that such was Fourmont's intention. * I need not repeat how 
 convincingly Mr. Knight has shewn that this singular appellation was 
 stolen from an erroneous reading of Hesychius, as adopted bv 
 Meursius, which error was, I believe, first pointed out by Hemster- 
 husius, and has been since corrected in all the subsequent editions. 
 M. Rochette, indeed, admits that the resemblance of the word in the 
 old copies of Hesychius may have misled Fourmont in reading the 
 inscription, and that, in consequence, he has copied it inaccurately ; 
 but he maintains that this ought not to discredit the discoverv, and 
 mentions several instances where Dr. Chandler and others have com- 
 mitted obvious mistakes in their published inscriptions, yet no one 
 ever thought of doubting their authenticity, f It is certainly true 
 that any person in transcribing antient characters may be easily liable 
 to error, but I would suggest to M. Rochette this difference in the 
 cases to which he refers : Dr. Chandler, and others who have com- 
 municated these remains to the public, were at once open to cor- 
 rection, on an examination of the originals by succeeding travellers, 
 possessing more industry or a better eye-sight : in addition to which, 
 it may be observed, that they published nothing which, on the face of 
 it, was strange and incredible. In the case under consideration, we 
 have, on the contrary, a subject perfectly new to the literary world, at 
 variance with all history and tradition, the very characters unlike 
 Ihose hitherto used in Greek writing, and the original of this most 
 
 • Voyages d'Anach. ch. 41. Lettrc, p. 28. f Lett. p. 32, 33. 
 
 3r 2
 
 492 LETTER RESPECTING 
 
 curious document no where to be found. I do not think it is by a 
 verbal emendation that we ought to estabhsh such a discovery as 
 this ; M. Rochette, however, makes the attempt, and supposes that 
 instead of Iketerkerateans, the true reading ought to be erEoxa^ff, or 
 antient Carians, and with much ingenuity and research he shews how 
 this people might have been established in Laconia*, although at a 
 period entirely beyond the reach of Lacedgemonian tradition. Ac- 
 cording to this tradition the Spartans invariably described the Leleges 
 as their predecessors, and as the aboriginal inhabitants of the t land ; 
 a circumstance not a little extraordinary, if they had constantly pos- 
 sessed before their eyes a written monument testifying the contrary. 
 With respect to these genuine or antient Carians, as M. Rochette calls 
 them, and as they call themselves, I leave, without further remark, the 
 probability of their writing Greek, a little burlesqued to be sure in 
 appearance, but such Greek in substance as would have been familiar 
 to their latest successors. The fact of their writing at all, some cen- 
 turies before the Trojan war, and even prior to the supposed intro- 
 duction of letters into Greece by Cadmus, M. Rochette may, perhaps, 
 think is attended with no difficulty. How much soever this con- 
 jecture may prove the superior learning of M. Rochette, it is at least 
 fortunate that the imposition of Fourmont is as clumsy as it is 
 unprincipled. 
 
 In my former letter, I observed that this venerable edifice had 
 unfortunately vanished. I added, however, that although the temple 
 of the Goddess had disappeared, yet that the true building, when 
 divested of this antient and venerable character, probably still ex- 
 isted in the shape of a modern Greek chapel, in which M. Fourmont 
 might have seen the marbles in question, and where I found them 
 in the year 1803. M. Rochette considers this as a confession, on my 
 part that there is actually at Amyclee an antient structure, converted 
 into a Greek church, but of which the original form and character are 
 
 Lett. p. 53. t Pausan. lib. iii. c. I.
 
 THE INSCRIPTIONS OF FOURMONT. 
 
 493 
 
 not destroyed, because the vestiges of an antient worship, and in- 
 scription relative to the ministers of that worship, have been dis- 
 covered in it. * When I asserted my behef that the temple still 
 existed in the form of a modern Greek church, undoubtedly you 
 must haA^e understood me by the context to have clearly implied that 
 it never existed in any other shape. But in consequence of this 
 whimsical mistake, M. Rochette thinks he is justified in accusing me 
 of inconsistency ; and even in adducing my testimony in support of 
 the inventions of Fourmont. In point of fact, however, this build- 
 ing is a small Greek chapel, possibly two hundred years old. It is 
 constructed, like other edifices of the same description, of common 
 masonry, composed of small stones and cement ; but from beinc ap- 
 parently deserted at present, as well as from having been slightly 
 built at first, it is probable that it may not stand a hundred years 
 longer. The interior dimensions assigned by Fourmont may, per- 
 haps, be nearly correct, and the door not much more than four feet 
 high, as stated by him ; but this practice is not uncommon in Greece, 
 and is adopted by the Christian inhabitants in order to prevent the 
 Mussulmans from turning their horses into the churches or houses. 
 Compare this with the temple of Fourmont, — the ten massive stones 
 which had endured from the time of King Eurotas to the visit of the 
 Abbe, undestroyed, and even uninjured, and you will then know 
 what weight to give to the notion of M. Rochette, that this change 
 has taken place in the course of the last eighty years. 
 
 When i\I. Rochette accuses me of inconsistency, he at the same 
 time lays himself entirely open to a similar charge. For, when, in 
 endeavouring to persuade us of the establishment of Priestesses be- 
 longing to the temple of the Amyclaian Apollo ; he adduces these 
 marbles as an indisputable evidence of the fact f, and says that thev 
 afford an invincible argument in favour of the chronicle published by 
 Fourmont ; he entirely forgets that, according to Fourmont, they 
 
 • Lett. p. 29. t Lett. p. 44.
 
 494 
 
 LETTER RESPECTING 
 
 have no connection with the temple of Apollo, but belong to that 
 of the Goddess Onga. On this point in dispute, relative to the 
 priesthood, I must repeat, that I have been able to find no au- 
 thority whatever for supposing the custody of the Amycliean temple 
 was ever entrusted to females ; and, consequently, the pretended 
 catalogue of Priestesses, published by Fourmont, even if less 
 absurd in itself, would be liable to suspicion. * JNI. Rochette is 
 not quite candid in treating this part of the subject : he refers me, 
 with great triumph, to Pausanias for the proof that women were 
 attached by subordinate functions to the temple of Apollo. I only 
 find, however, that there was a building at Sparta, and not at Amyclas, 
 in which the robe or tunic for the covering of the statue was annually 
 woven, and from which circumstance the building received its fname. 
 Now, as this process was, among the Greeks, always performed by 
 females, it would have been very remarkable had they not been em- 
 ployed in the present instance. M. Rochette gives us a list of 
 temples, which might no doubt be easily enlarged, where the priest- 
 hood was composed of women ; but the greater part of this list is 
 derived from Pausanias, and I must still be of opinion that his silence 
 respecting this celebrated temple, which he has described at such 
 lenffth, and which he has mentioned so often, is almost decisive of the 
 question. The matter, however, is not of much importance, and I only 
 adverted to it formerly in consequence of a very generiil notion pre- 
 vailing on the subject, which, I believe, has no better foundation than 
 the spurious authority of Fourmont himself; and also as a reason for 
 my not being disposed to consider the marbles, which I discovered in 
 the neighbourhood of Amyclse, as belonging to the temple of Apollo, 
 although inscribed with the name of a priestess. 
 
 While M. Rochette, in one part of his work, confesses the great 
 
 * Mem. de I'Acad. des Inscr. torn, xxiii. p. 394., accompanied by the elaborate com- 
 mentary of the Abbe Barthelemy. 
 
 f 'T^aiKOucri 8e naTO. sto; at yvvaixs; Tio AttoKXcovi ^iTteva Ttu ev 'AfiuxXat;, xa) otKrjjxa 
 svi* ij(paivou(rt Xircsva ovo/j-al^ovriv, — Pausan. lib. iii. c. IG.
 
 THE INSCRIPTIONS OF FOURMONT. 495 
 
 alteration which has taken place in the appearance of this building, 
 and says, that the dedicatory inscription to Onga, which he admits 
 is not now to be seen, was obviously the first thing that the Greek 
 Christians would destroy in appropriating it to their own worship ; 
 in another place, he does not scruple to inform us that it actually 
 exists at the present moment, and precisely as it was described by 
 Fourmont. * This decisive fact is stated on the authority of a Doctor 
 Avramiotti, who, in the year 1816, published critical observations on 
 the travels of M. de Chateaubriand in Greece. I have not seen his 
 work, but from the specimen afforded us by M. Rochette, it must 
 indeed be curious, and, of its kind, almost singular. After blaming 
 M. de Chateaubriand for some other omissions, he continues thus : 
 " Ma non merita scusa di non aver veduto, cinque cento passi lontan 
 dal tempio d' Apollo Amicleo, con nessuno suo incommodo, quel 
 medesmo magnifico edijicio, che ne descrive il Fourmont negli Atti delle 
 iscrizioni e belle lettere. E lungo esso sedici piedi, largo dieci ; una 
 pietra ne forma il fondo, due ne formano il capitello ; una c posta per 
 ciascuno dei quatro lati, e tutte sono grezze e nericcie. La sua figura 
 rappresenta una grotta. Per una porta angusta, non eccedente i 
 quattro piedi, vi si montava per tre gradini, formati essi pure d'una 
 sola pietra in tutta I'estenzion della fabbrica. Era questo un tempio 
 di remota Antichita, consecrate dal re Eurota a jNIinerva, il cui nome, 
 che Onga presso i Lacedemoni era, e scolpito nel front espizio." 
 M. Rochette thinks the evidence of the Greek Doctor ought to be 
 received preferably to my assertions ; because he speaks, in the 
 passage above quoted, as an eye witness, and as a person certain of 
 the fact ; because, also, he has been long settled in the country, and 
 has leisurely examined those objects of which it is insinuated that I 
 have taken only a superficial and hasty view ; and because he 
 describes the temple as actually existing, conformably in every par- 
 ticular with the account of Fourmont, and says that the name of 
 
 • Lett, pp.30. 125.
 
 496 LETTER RESPECTING 
 
 Onga is inscribed on the front. I cannot help here congratulating 
 M. Rochette on the opportunity afforded him of verifying his con- 
 jectural emendation, in order that we may know with certainty to 
 whom we are indebted for this same " magnificent edifice," whether 
 to Fourmont's Iketerkerateans, or to M. Rochette' s " genuineCarians." 
 It is a pity the Doctor did not give us the inscription at full length, 
 but I presume that no time has been lost in ascertaining this point. 
 To speak seriously, however, it is really not easy to find words 
 properly to characterise the production of this person ; but as his 
 statement at least brings the whole question within a very narrow 
 compass, I can only say, that I am perfectly contented the judgment 
 of the public shovdd depend on this issue. If any traveller of credit 
 and respectability shall say that he ever saw a building of this de- 
 scription, or any thing which could even fairly be mistaken for it, I 
 will admit my error, and confess that the reputation of Fourmont has, 
 in this respect, been unjustly calumniated. But even if it were pos- 
 sible to produce this, as well as the originals of all his pretended 
 inscriptions, to-morrow, although the Abbe himself would stand 
 acquitted of the fraud, their spuriousness would be equally manifest, 
 for the evidence afforded by their contents is amply sufficient ; and 
 we should then come to the conchision adopted by Professor Boeckh, 
 of Berlin, who thinks that no man in his senses can believe them to 
 be genuine, but who, not doing justice to the audacity of Fourmont, 
 attributes their forgery to the Spartans themselves, about the first 
 century of the Christian era. * In the mean time, I will only observe 
 further, that circumstances are much changed since Fourmont visited 
 Greece : few, if any, had then ventured to explore regions which 
 were supposed to be full of difficulty and danger ; the risk of de- 
 tection was, therefore, slight. Even so late as the year 1803, the 
 
 * Lett. p. 13. Quod si jam quseris quid de aiitiquissimis, qui feruntur, titiilis censeam, 
 insanum dixerim, qui eos Trojano bello priores cum Barthelemio, Lanzio aliisque putet; 
 neque tamen eos a Fourmonto, sod ab ipsis Spartanis circa primum a Christo nato seculum 
 confictos arbitror.
 
 THE INSCRIPTIONS OF FOURMONT. 497 
 
 period of my own journey to Sparta, I believe that not many persons 
 had preceded me in those remote districts of the Peloponnesus. But 
 in the course of the last ten years, the country has been open to travel- 
 lers of all nations, and has been comparatively much more frequented. 
 There, doubtless, is to be found, at this moment, a very considerable 
 number of active and intelligent men, fully qualified to pronounce 
 between the assertions made by Dr. Avramiotti and myself. Notwith- 
 standing my stay at Sparta scarcely exceeded a week, and although 
 this " eye-witness" is said to be settled at Argos, I am somewhat 
 disposed to believe that he may never have visited the plain of the 
 Eurotas at all, but that he has blindly extracted his description from 
 the iNIemoirs of the Academy of Inscriptions ; or perhaps from the 
 Travels of Anacharsis, which are well known in Greece, but in which, 
 unfortunately, an undeserved reliance on the veracity of his country- 
 man, has misled the learned author of that most delightful work. 
 
 I have no doubt that Fourmont made a large collection of in- 
 scriptions, and that he accurately copied the greater part of them. 
 The originals of many which are preserved among his papers, exist 
 at this day in different parts of Greece. But these inscriptions, 
 although unknown to Europe at the time, he did not think it worth 
 while to publish. It was only after having had full time for the 
 work, either from the slender materials furnished by some genuine 
 document, or without any foundation at all, that he has fabricated, 
 and communicated to the Academy of Inscriptions, his pretended 
 discoveries. These, if they had been genuine, would undoubtedly, 
 from their remote antiquity, and from the nature of the subjects, have 
 commanded an interest on the part of that learned body, and of 
 Europe in general, far greater than could possibly have been excited 
 by the communication of any thing which he had really seen in 
 Greece. For it is worthy of notice, that although the authenticity 
 of many of his inscriptions preserved in the King's library has been 
 proved by the copies of other travellers, or by the existence of the 
 originals, this does not apply to any thing which he has himself pub- 
 lished ; and indeed it appears that he considered his collection merely 
 
 VOL. II. 3 s
 
 498 LETTER RESPECTING. 
 
 as the raw materials from whence he was enabled from time to time 
 to manufacture an occasional discovery for the Paris market. A 
 curious illustration of this is afforded by the marbles in question. 
 The drawings, as they were found by the Comte Caylus, and as 
 published by him, represent instruments belonging to the sacrifice 
 of human victims, instead of the ornaments of female dress ; but the 
 inscriptions are perfectly accurate, both in form and substance ; one 
 of them, AATAPHTA ANTinATPOY lEPEIA, being written in the 
 character employed in Greece about the period of the Macedonian 
 conquest; the other, ANGOTCH AAMAINETOT YnOCTATPIA *, in 
 such as was generally in use under the Roman emperors. The note 
 on the drawing, written by Fourmont, is, hi templo Ongce ; and the 
 Count informs us he was assured by M. Fourmont the younger, who 
 attended his uncle in Greece, and who seems to have been a companion 
 worthy of him, that " they were found placed one on each side of 
 the entrance of the sanctuary, where, in the antient temples of Greece, 
 the priests were stationed." j" Now, it was precisely in this situation, 
 in front of the altar, that they were found by me in the year 1803, 
 in the Greek chapel already so often mentioned. We here see the indi- 
 
 * I find in Hesychius that the gloss of j-algia is s/x7rxlx7gia, which term signified a person 
 who made ornaments of female dress, and especially of the head dress, either with reference 
 to the net usually worn by women, and frequently represented on antient coins, or perhaps 
 to the different modes of twisting the hair. "Sralgia has puzzled all the commentators on 
 Hesychius, and Alberti seems to think that the word may have been written erroneouslj', 
 instead of xofj-lf^ix, which, as well as 3<ofi.ju,a)1gia, had the same signification as ei^Trxixlgict. 
 Our inscription, however, together with the objects represented on the marbles, are suf- 
 ficient to authenticate the common reading; and u7rora7gia will therefore designate a sub- 
 ordinate person engaged in this occupation. Ilesych. ed. Albert, in loc. The etymology 
 of the word is still doubtful. — A. 
 
 [It appears from the Etym. M. and from Hesychius, that xajj-fiwrgiu had, as well as a-Targici, 
 the signification of £|U.7rA£xi-gia : and, by obtaining the meaning of xo/xfioiTgia, we shall also 
 find that of o-Targia. Now a passage in Clemens Al. Paed. 1. iii., will illustrate satisfactorily 
 the sense of the word. Koft/Aixai Is xa.) xoixu-uiTgiai rrsgi tu; yvva'txuc afj.:^i7roXsvo'j(riv' at /i-sv 
 xaTO'jTTQu., a.\ 8e touc xBxgu^aKonc' uKKon rob; xre'vaf. We here find mention of the minors, 
 nets, or fillets for the hair, and combs, as placed under the charge of the Kofi/xcurgia : but 
 the same articles appear sculptured on the marble, containing the title of TIIOCTATPIA. 
 Spanheim translates xifj.fj.uiTui by Coiffeurs de Madame. The learned critic, in the 
 Q. Review, vol. 19. refers to the passage in Hesychius. — E.] 
 
 t Caylus, Rec. d'Antiquit. t. ii. p. 151.
 
 THE INSCRIPTIONS OF FOURMONT. 499 
 
 cation of his project, although he did not venture to carry it fully into 
 execution ; had it been completed, we should doubtless have seen a 
 srave dissertation on the custom of human sacrifices among those 
 antient Iketerkerateans, in honor of this strange deity. The in- 
 scriptions themselves, when published, would no doubt have been 
 represented in those whimsical characters which j\L Fourmont thought 
 suitable to the remote antiquity of the building ; and some alteration 
 would probably have taken place, in order to render them more 
 accordant with the fact of the existence of this worship, hitherto 
 unheard of But the appearance of his drawing in its present state, 
 with the absurd anachronism on the face of it, and the total change of 
 the subject of the sculpture, while it sufficiently exhibits his inten- 
 tions, at the same time convicts him of falsehood and imposture. 
 JNI. Rochette, although disposed to admit the accuracy of the en- 
 graving inserted in your former volume, seems to insinuate the 
 possibility of mistake and error on my part. In answer to this I can 
 only say, that as the marbles are actually in my possession at this 
 moment, either he, or any other person, is perfectly at liberty to ex- 
 amine and verify the truth of the representation. 
 
 But we are told that Fourmont, for the purpose of securing to his 
 own country the exclusive glory of his discoveries, by a barbarous pre- 
 caution, mutilated and destroyed the inscriptions after he had copied 
 them * ; and the evidence of Mr. Dodwell is adduced to prove that 
 the inhabitants of Sparta still preserve a recollection of this fact. 
 Nearly the same account, if I be not mistaken, was given to me by 
 the person mentioned by IMr. Dodwell ; but it appeared at the time, 
 that this history had been derived from what the narrator had heard 
 from others respecting the confessions of Fourmont, rather than from 
 any local knowledge or tradition. I think it extremely probable, 
 however, that Fourmont may have obliterated inscriptions ; and it only 
 remains to be seen with what reasonable or intelligible motive this 
 was done. I confess that what M. Rochette calls his " ill-judged 
 
 • Lett. p. 10, 11. 
 3s 2
 
 500 LETTER RESPECTING 
 
 patriotism," seems to me quite inadequate to account for this conduct. 
 He must have known that travellers in those countries were at that, 
 time of very rare occurrence, and that there could be no doubt what- 
 ever of his being able to present to the public the fruits of his re- 
 searches, without the risk of the participation of any other person, 
 and even before the objects were again visited. But if he was de- 
 sirous to preserve these inscriptions entirely from the sight of future 
 travellers, he might easily have brought them with him to France. 
 Their size and weight presented no obstacle, for he describes them as 
 about three feet and a half high, by two feet and a quarter wide. * A 
 person who, by his own account, employed sixty men for two months, 
 at Amyclae alone, could have had in> dithculty in transporting these 
 marbles a few miles to the sea side. Of their extreme importance to 
 the history and chronology of Greece, he professes himself to have 
 been well aware ; and from their great sinjrularitv he must have an- 
 ticipated universal scepticism, unless he could prove the existence of 
 the originals. For it is worthy of remark, that the only inscriptions 
 said to be destroyed are precisely those whose existence is most 
 doubtful, and which it was most incumbent on him to produce. A 
 great portion of his collection, of different degrees of importance, 
 many of them transcribed by him for the first time, has been since 
 confirmed and copied by succeeding travellers. None of these, how- 
 ever, were ever published by Fourmont himself; and so far from 
 thinking they add any authority to his daring impositions, I cannot 
 but draw a different conclusion from the fact stated. If, therefore, 
 Fourmont went through the farce of defacing any monuments of this 
 description, it was not from " ill-judged patriotism," but in order to 
 obtain the means of inventing, with impunity, what he pretended to 
 have discovered and then destroyed. But whatever may have beeu 
 the amount of this particular species of barbarism, he seems in other 
 respects, if we are to credit his own relation, to have carried on the 
 work of destruction in a manner quite unparalleled, and under such 
 
 Mem. tie I'Acad. des Inscr. t. xv. p. 398.
 
 THE INSCRIPTIONS OF FOURMONT." 501 
 
 circumstances of absurd extravagance as might almost lead us to sus- 
 pect him of insanity. oNIr. Dodwell has furnished us with some 
 curious extracts from his correspondence, which is preserved in the 
 King's library at Paris, and consists of letters from different parts of 
 Greece, addressed to the Comte de Maurepas, M. Freret, the Abbe 
 Sevin, and others. * They are worth inserting as specimens of " ill- 
 judged patriotism ;" although I suspect that this quality will have 
 been better illustrated by their long suppression and concealment, 
 rather than by the publication of the facts contained in them. " Je 
 I'ai fait, non pas raser, mais abattre de fond en comble. II n'y a plus 
 de toute cette grande ville, une pierre sur une autre, &c. — Depuis 
 plus de trente jours, trente et quelquefois quarante ou soixante ou- 
 vriers, abattent, detruisent, exterminent la ville de Sparte, &c. — Je 
 n'ai plus que quatre tours a demolir, &c. — Dans le moment queje 
 suis occupe a la derniere destruction de Sparte, &c. — imaginez vous, 
 si vous pouvez, dans quelle joye je suis. Elle est des plus grandes ; 
 mais elle seroit extreme si on m'avoitlaisse faire encore quelque tems. 
 Mantinee, Stymphalus, Pallantium, Tegee, et sur tout Olympia et 
 Nemee, meritoient bien que je les renversasse de fond en comble ; 
 j'en ai I'autorite, &c. — J'ai, chemin faisant, cherche les anciennes villes 
 de ce pays, et j'en ai detruit quelques unes ; entre autres Hermione, 
 Traszene, Tiryns, la moitie de la citadelle d'Argos, Phliasia, Pheneos, 
 et apres avoir perce dans la JNIagne autant que la prudence I'a pu 
 permettre, je suis depuis six semaines, occupe a la derriere et totale 
 destruction de Sparte, &c. — Sparte est la cinquieme ville de 
 la Moree que j'ai renversee, Hermione et Trfezene out subi le 
 meme sort — je n'ai pardonnc a Argos, a Phliasia, &c. — Je suis 
 actuellement occupe a detruire jusqu'a la pierre fondamentale du 
 temple d'Apollon Amycleen, &c. — J'en detruirois meme d'autres 
 avec autant de facilite, si on me laissoit faire. — Je n'ai point lu que 
 depuis le renouvellement des lettres, il soit venu dans I'esprit de 
 
 Dodwell, Travels in Greece, v. ii. c. 11 .
 
 502 LETTER RESPECTING THE INSCRIPTIONS OF FOURMONT. 
 
 quelqu'un de bouleverser ainsi des villes entieres, &c. — Je ne me 
 souviens pas d'avoir vu dans les relations des voyageurs qui m'ont pre- 
 cede, qu'ils ayent jamais ose abattre des chateaux, ou d'autres grands 
 batimens." In speaking of the destruction of Sparta, the following 
 observations, rightly understood, afford some explanation of his 
 motives. " Si en renversant ses murs et ses temples, si en ne 
 laissant pas une pierre sur une autre au plus petit de ses sacellums, 
 son lieu sera dans la suite ignoree, jai au mains de quoi la faire re- 
 connoitre, et c'est quelque chose ; je navois que ce moyen fa pour 
 renclre illustre inon voyage, &c." 
 
 After this recital, he has the hardihood to sign himself Fourmont 
 Z7rafT<«T»>co? : but, as Mr. Dodwell observes, he should rather have 
 taken the title of Poliorcetes, for it would appear that the cities of 
 Greece had not met with such a destroyer since the days of De- 
 metrius. To speak seriously, however, I will frankly confess that 
 these ravages do not excite any regret in my mind, because I do not 
 believe a single word respecting them, and I am persuaded that to 
 you, or to any other person who has been in the country, it would 
 only be an idle w^aste of time to adduce any proofs of the ludicrous 
 absurdity of the tale. The statement of Fourmont itself is quite 
 sufficient, and I shall detain you with no further remarks, but leave 
 M. Rochette to pronounce such an opinion respecting that statement 
 and its author as he may think fit, whether it be true or false. I must 
 say, however, that his silence concerning these particulars, which must 
 have been in his possession, is scarcely consistent with the candour he 
 professes, especially where so much depends on the credit due to the 
 personal character of the individual in question, and who, JM. Rochette 
 would have us believe, was " a laborious, pains-taking man, ignorant 
 of the ways of the world, carrying the bluntness and simplicity of his 
 manners almost to rudeness ; and, in short, much more honest than 
 learned." * I will only further add, in conclusion, that when 
 M. Rochette thinks himself justified in assuming a high tone of in- 
 
 * Lett. p. 3.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 503 
 
 dignation in defence of the " memory and honour of this worthy 
 man," and when he inveighs in strong terms against the arrogance 
 and presumption of those criticks who are prone to beUeve evil, and 
 who deUght to cakimniate literary worth, I am surprised that it 
 should not occur to him what may possibly be said of those who 
 virtually assist in the propagation of imposture, for the gratification 
 of exhibiting their own learning and ingenuity in the support of an 
 untenable and exploded paradox. 
 
 I remain, dear Walpole, yours, &c. 
 
 Aberdeen, 
 
 INSCRIPTIONS, 
 
 COPIED IN VARIOUS PARTS OF GREECE, 
 
 AND 
 COMMUNICATED BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL LEAKE. 
 
 I. 
 
 The following inscription is upon a fragment of a large quadrangular 
 Stele at Punta, a low cape at the entrance of the gulf of Arta, oppo- 
 site to the modern town of Prevyza. At Punta are many remains of 
 walls of Roman construction, erected probably by Augustus, when he 
 established the Actian games at this spot, and founded Nicopolis 
 upon the isthmus near Prevyza. 
 
 EniEPAnOAOTTf2IAnOAAflNITilIAKTmi*IA . . M0N02 EOIiTPA 
 
 OS 
 
 nPOMNAMONAEArHTATOTNIKIAAATSElOT ilNOSOIN 
 
 STMnPOMNAMONilNAENATSIMAXOTTOTAPlSTOKAE XOTTOT 
 
 02A2TAK0T*1A0HEN0TT0THPAK.\EIT0T*0ITIAN02 EAOHETA 
 
 rPAMMATE0::iAETAIBOYAAinPOITOTTOYAIOnEI©EO2 NOY2E 
 
 MATPOnOAlTAKOTPOTPOnOT EAOHETATBOTAAIKAI NANX2N 
 
 TiilKOINmTilNAKAPNANilNnPOHENOTSEIMEN FATSAN 
 
 KAIETEPFETASTOTKOINOTTa.MAKAPNANflNKATA ENAKAP 
 
 TONNOMONAFA-SIANOATMnmNOSnATPHnonAION KAIKAT
 
 504 
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 AEYKIOTsITOT2nonAIOTAKIAIOY2Pi2MAI 
 0T2KAIEIMENATT0I2 
 
 KAIEKr0N0lSENAKAPNANIAIA2*AAEIANKArATT0I2 
 ' • KAIXPHMA2IKAIKATArANKAIKATA0AAAS2ANKAI 
 nOAEMOTKAlEIPANA2KAirA2KAIOIKIA2ErKTH2IN 
 KAITAAAAATIMIAKAI<I>L\AN0PI2nAnANTAO2AKAITOI2 
 A/VAOl2nPOHENOl2KAIETEPrETAI2TOTKOINOTTI2N 
 AKAPNANHNTnAPXEl 
 
 EIPANAS 
 
 MIAKAI* 
 
 NOI2KAI 
 
 NANO 
 
 EniEPAnOA 
 
 N02AE 
 
 NAT2IM 
 
 PAKAEITO 
 
 AIOnEI 
 
 IKOIXillT 
 
 NOYT 
 
 EM ME 
 
 AEONTI 
 
 AIA2* 
 
 ©AAA 
 
 KTH2I 
 
 A0I2r 
 
 TOAP 
 
 'Ett* 'hpuTToXov ru 'ATroXXaivt tu 'Azrita ^iX^y.i^fxovoc' 
 
 •7rpouv^f/,ovog as 'AyyiTocrov 'NiKi'a, ^AXvo'Stoh' 
 
 trvu.7r^o[x.v7i[Jt,ovuv Se 'Na.va'ifji.oi^ov tou AptCTOxKe 
 
 Off 'AfTTaxoL/, ^iXo^ivou TOU 'HflazXSJTOU <^Oiriot.vog' 
 
 ypctuudTBog oe tvi QouXv JipoiTov rov AiOTriQso^ 
 
 MriTfOTroXlrou Kou^ot^ottou' ' ESo^b ty} £ouXr y.oci 
 
 Tu xoivu Tuv AK(XfiVxvit>v, TT^o^Bvovg eivoct 
 
 Koti sCspyiTug toZ koivou raiv Atcot^vccvuv y.a.r(x. 
 
 rov vouov Ayoccuzv OXuf^TTiuvog flaTpea, rioTrXtov, 
 
 AnJyciov Tovg Uo'ttxIou 'AKiXiOvg ?u(^xi 
 
 ou?' y.o(,i Bivai ooiTO.g 
 
 Kccl tKyovag ev AKufvctvioi a<r^uXBtav x«» tuVTol'g 
 
 xcd ^pi^f/,ei(n koc] koctcc yyjv xcti kchtoc dctXa.(rcrviv x.»i 
 
 7roXi[A,ou Kxl elfi^vi/ig x«i yvig y.ou otKiocg iyxTY;tru, 
 
 Koci Tcc uXXa. Ttf/,ix Koci (piXxi/SfUTroc, ttocvtx, otx tcoti Toig 
 
 uXXotg 'rrpo^f.Moig Kcti edgytTcxtg tou koivou tuv 
 
 ' AKCHOVUVUV UTTa^-XJil, , 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 Philemon having the administration of the sacred things of the 
 Actian Apollo ; Agetatus, son of Nicias, of Alysus, being recorder ;
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 505 
 
 Nausimachus, son of Aristocles, ot" Astacus (and) Philoxenus, son of 
 Heraclitus, of Phoetiae, being assistant recorders ; Proetus, son of Dio- 
 pithes, of INIetropolis, being secretary to the council : 
 
 It was decreed by the council and people of the Acarnanians, that 
 Agasias, son of Olympion, of Patra?, (and) the Romans, Publius (and) 
 Lucius, sons of Publius Acilius, should be public guests and bene- 
 factors of the community of the Acarnanians, according to law ; and 
 that for them and their descendants in Acarnania, there should be 
 protection for themselves and their property by sea and by land, and 
 in war and in peace, together with the right of acquiring lands and 
 houses, and all other rights of honor and humanity, granted by 
 the community of the Acarnanians to other public guests and bene- 
 factors. 
 
 NOTE. 
 
 Alysus and Astacus were towns of Acarnania, near the coast, lying 
 opposite to Leucas and the Echinades. PhoetiEe and Metropolis were 
 near the banks of the Achelous. In the time of the last Philip of 
 Macedonia, Phoetiae belonged to the iEtolians (Polyb. 1. iv. c. 63.) ; but 
 it is probable, from this inscription, that Augustus gave the natural 
 boundary of the Achelous to the two provinces, and thus included 
 Phoetiiu, which is on the northern side of the Achelous in Acarnania. 
 I found remains of all these cities. 
 
 II. 
 
 Of the two following dedications to Aplus, or the Thessalian 
 Apollo, I copied the first from the edge of a quadrangular piece of 
 white marble, in the court of the bishop's house, at Turnavo, a Greek 
 town in Thessaly, eight miles to the N. N. W. of Larissa. The dia- 
 lect seems to have been peculiar to the adjacent district ; at least I 
 never observed it in any of the numerous inscriptions remaining in 
 Thessaly, nor even so near as Larissa, where many still exist. I 
 found the second dedication, which is to Apollo of Tempe, at Tatari, 
 a village situated in the same plain in which Turnavo stands, and not 
 far from the left bank of the Peneus, between Larissa and Tempe. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 T
 
 506 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 AnAOTNIKEPA,IOT20T2inATPO:> 
 nOAEMAPXIAAIOSOGTTAi 
 
 ONE0EIKEIEPOi\rNAMONEI 
 SA2KAIAPXIAAYXNA*OPEI2A2 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 "ATrXouvi.] The following passage in the Ci*atjlus of Plato, illus- 
 trative of this word, has been pointed out to me by the Rev. R. AVal- 
 pole. Plato, in speaking of Apollo, says : " Kara Se t^v uuvtik'^v kuI 
 TO dXyid'ig re kxI to ixTrXouv {^tccvtov yd.^ eor/y) uxnre^ oiiv s» &iTTxXol KuXouam 
 auToV, opdoTctT ocv TioiXoiTo. AttXov ya.^ (poccn TrocvTsg QiTTxXci toutov tov 6e6v. 
 — Cratyl. p. 205. ed. Serr. 
 
 Ke^Scfou for KsfiSccu.] This epithet of Apollo is found in Lyco- 
 phron, V. 208. J^iX^ivicv vrx^ xvt^x Ke^Suov Qeou, where the Scholiast says 
 that Apollo was called by this name, on ha. -x^^r^a-jjLuv to. a-vizpeoovrx y.xt 
 
 i-TT IKi^Cfi dliy.VMT.V. 
 
 III. 
 
 AnAOTNlTEMOEITA 
 AI2XTAIS2ATTP0I 
 EAET0EPIA 
 
 A-rTGX><jivt TefifrHTr, AttryjjXig "LxTypou sXsu^i^ix. 
 
 IV. 
 
 At Athens. 
 
 - AlAMENEl2<i>A0SnPE2lBTPTINrAIAAEKET 
 OEl2l2MAnNOHNAEAI0HPEAABENnAAINO2nE 
 PEAi2KENnATPIAE2ilIKAIMHTPIAini2NATnA 
 
 S - nANANKH2i2IX0YANAPnA2©El2EnTAETHr 
 
 - - 0NI2 - 
 
 rx7x iiiv eig (pxog ijps ZiQuoTiv^ yx7x SI KiuSet 
 T.uf/.a, TTvoviv as aj^ijp sXx&ev ttxXiv, 'cxtttsd iouKiV 
 YlxT^i Si (Tu jcxi [^virp] XiTTuv XvTTxg uV xvxyK'i^g 
 £li^cv uvxp7ru(r9etg Itttx btti yiyovuq.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 50-; 
 
 I found the following upon a solid square block of stone, in a shoe- 
 maker's shop, in the town of Dhomoko, the antient Thaumaci. 
 
 ArA0AITTXAinOAI50ATi\L\KIlN 
 
 EAQKEArESTOIATPOAEONOS 
 
 KA.\AIEinPOHENIAXEniNOMI 
 
 ANASYAIANA2<I>.Ai\EIANENKTH 
 
 SINATEAEIANnAXTIlNKAinOAE 
 
 MOTKATRTPANA5ENTO.\AnANTA 
 
 XPONONKAIATTmKAIEKrONOISKAI 
 
 OSATOI2A.VAOlSnPOHE\OISnAN 
 
 TAAPX0NTfiN2(|>0APIAAE AA 
 
 4>ANAENrT0STA2nP0HENIA2 
 nOATMNIASTOI»2 
 
 VI. 
 
 ArA0AITYXAinOAl20ATMAKf2NEA12KENnYPPA 
 
 TIMAFOPO - - P - - - EmTAIONTIEYEPrETA 
 
 - - SnPOHENIAN - - OnOAITEIANErriNOMIAN 
 ASTAIAXAS*A.VEIANEXKTH2INATEAEIAN 
 
 nAXTQXKAinOAEMOTKAIEIPAXASKAIAT 
 
 EKFONOIS - NTONAnANTAXPONONKAIOSA 
 TOl2A.LVOI2nPOHEXOlSnANTAAPXONTI2X 
 
 AI5IPAK0 - NIKOMAXOTENrT02TA2 
 
 nP0HENIA2NE0nT0i\£MO2ETH©IA 
 
 AyotQu Tv^ol' HoXig QxuficiKuy tSuxe AyetrTu 
 'AypoXiuvog KaXXtsT Trpo^eviav, i7rtvofjiKx,v, 
 cc<ru\ioiv, (x,(r(pa.Xiia.v, eyKTii}<riv, cctsXukv 
 TTuvruv x«t TToAepou x.oit et^rivrig ev 
 
 TOV OiTTOCtlTOC ^DOVOV XUl UVTU KXt 
 > / \ rf "■'%., }•' 
 
 BKyovcis xa» o<rat roig otXXoig Tr^oj^ivoig 
 
 eyyvog ryjg Trpc^iviocg noXvfA,vioc(rTog. 
 'AyocSa, Tvx'?'' TloXig Qavf/.cx,Kaiv eSuxev 
 
 Sic in lapide. 
 
 3x2
 
 508 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 eTTivof^iuv, aauAtav, o(.(T(pc(.A€tav^ iyKTHitrtv., 
 
 XTtXiMV TTOCVTUV, KCU TToXBfiCV KOCl Upr^VVig, 
 
 xcct ocbTco Kott Bttyovoig ev rov ccttoivtx 
 
 ^pOVOVf XOH 0(TOi TOl^ UAAOig TTflO^BVOig 
 
 ■noLVTo.' ^ hoyovruiv ajo^ifa^co - N;>£0^«%oi;. 
 
 ' Y.yyxiix; Tr^g y-TT^o^PivioLq Nso7rro'X£ji*oj Eu>i5/o(oi;). 
 
 2 KaAXie,", Calliensi. Agestus was a citizen of Callium,. an im- 
 portant town in ^Etolia, situated on the north side of the Spercheius. 
 It was phmdered by the Gauls, who marched thither suddenly from 
 their camp before Thermopylae. B. C. 278. See Pausanias (Phocic. 
 c. 22.) 
 
 2 'E-n-ivof^id, the rigiit of pasturing cattle. 
 
 6 The word hyovcig has been substituted for something erased, and 
 xx\ has been added in the margin. 
 
 10 The town of Heraclea, more antiently Trachys, near Therm o- 
 pylee, was about twenty-five miles to the southward of Tliaumaci. 
 Callium was about the same distance to the westward. 
 
 VII. 
 
 Fro7n D/iadhia, near Mount Parnassus. 
 
 T K A 
 
 MOTAAAMASinn 
 
 TONAPXIEPEATOY 
 
 PAAOTee OTAIONTCO 
 
 TONBOIlUTAPXHNnA 
 
 TPOC BOIU)TAPXOT 
 
 ru3NO0eTHNa>U]KAP 
 
 XHNAM*IKTTONA0e 
 
 HKOAONDANEAAHNA 
 
 APXONTAKAITACAAAAC 
 
 nAC AC e NTHnATPI AI 
 
 Xe Ae C ANTAAlTOTPn 
 
 ACKINTTAIAnVOTTA 
 
 XHHrTNHTONIAION 
 
 ANAPAerxOIACKAIAPe 
 
 THCeNeKeNAIONY 
 
 coreNxeMeNei
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. .509 
 
 Yr;<pKrfji.acTi koivu otiuoalu 
 
 Maojdov OuX-TTiov Aocf^octmrTrov, tov cc^y^iepeoc tou [^lydy^ov 6iou Ajtmirou, rov 
 Eoiurot^yjlVy TTscT^cg BoiuTtx^^ov, Ayuvo&iTi^v, <PaiKoi^^ifiv^ 'Aix,(pi>cTuovoc, ©er,KcXoVy 
 Tloii/eXXi/ivoc, A^^ovTcx. Koit Toig aXXcc; ira.cru.z iv ti\ Tratr^idt TcXitrotvTo. XiTOupyiag^ 
 KtvTvXiBi nXovTtx^^ri ri yvv^ tov t'Siov ocvSpa. evvolxg aoci dperrg BveKev A/ovuVou Iv 
 
 TifJt.iVU. 
 
 From this inscription it appears, that the stone upon which it is 
 engraved supported a statue of a high priest of Bacchus, named 
 Marcus Ulpius Damasippus, erected by his wife Quintilia Plutarcha. 
 I found it in a church near Dhadhia, a large village, situated at the 
 foot of ]\Iount Parnassus, on the northern side. The hill upon which 
 the church stands is surrounded by the remains of Hellenic walls, 
 which seem to have belonged to the antient Amphicleia ; for the con- 
 curring testimonies of Herodotus (1. viii. c. 33.), and of Pausanias 
 (Phocic. c. 33.), place Amphicsea, or Amphicleia, in this vicinity ; and 
 the worship of Bacchus, mentioned in the inscription, is described by 
 Pausanias, as existing at Amphicleia, in the following terms : '^io.g ^e 
 
 fiaiXKTTa. oi^iov uovtcj' Aiciiktu optAXTtv ocyiu etrodog sg to o-Smtov, ouSl ev (puvipu 
 (T^KTiv kyxX^oc ouK B(rTr XsySTxi <Jg vtto tuv 'Afz^MXsieuv /jLecvtiv ts <r!picri tov 
 diov TovTov xcci QoijQov voiruv (r(pi(ri icoi9e(rTvix.ivui' tcc f/.ev ^ij votr'^uxrct c.vTOig 
 ' Afi^iK.Xsi\)(n xoci ToTg -tt^oo-ohcovo'iv ixtxi Oi ovet^exTcov' Traoj^avTig Se o Upevg etm' 
 ^pa 0£ Ix TOU 9ici/ v.a,Toyjig. 
 
 It appears, therefore, that Damasippus was one of the priests who 
 were inspired by the god to enunciate his oracles. With respect to 
 the remarkable word 6er/.oXoi; we find that at Olympia there was a 
 building called the QerjuoXeuv, and a sacred officer 9eyi)icXoTcg, who had 
 charge of the sacrifices, [A.sXe^ tk eg dva-lag dB'/jxoXoTec. Paus. Eliac. prior, 
 c. 15. Facius, however, has supposed that the word should be written 
 BeTiKaXu, and his conjecture receives the strongest confirmation from 
 our inscription. I copied another at Zante, in honour of a woman 
 who had been priestess * [dioxoX'^a-a.a-xv) to Diana. 
 
 • Chandler (Inscr. Ant. p. 86.) has published this inscription with the slight error of 
 KAl instead of KAH, in the name of the priestess Clenippa.
 
 510 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 VIII. 
 At Amphipolis. 
 
 EAOEENTOIAHMiil*! 
 
 AflNAKAlSTPATOKiVE 
 
 A'I>EOrEINAM*inOAI(N) 
 
 ,nOAITEliNAEI*Tr(l) 
 
 HNKAIATT02KAIT0S 
 
 nAIAA2KAIHMnOTAA(l) 
 
 2Ki2NTATnA2XEINA(T) 
 
 T02i2SnOAEMI02KAI 
 
 NHnOINElTEQNANAI 
 
 TAAEXPHMATATTilNA 
 
 HMOSlAEINAITOAEn 
 
 lAEKATONIPONTOTA 
 
 nOAAX2N02KAITOSTP 
 
 YM0N05T02AEnP02T 
 
 ATASANAEPAvJ'AIArr 
 
 OSE2STHAHNA10INHN 
 
 HNAETISTO^H^ISMA 
 
 ANA*H<I>IZEIHKATAA 
 
 EXETA1T0TT02TEXN 
 
 HIHMHXANHIO(T)EmO(T) 
 
 N(T)AXPHMATATTOAHM 
 
 OSlAE2Ti2KAIATT05 
 
 'I'EOrETllAM^inOAIN 
 
 AEi^rriHN 
 
 yiav*. Kou auToJf '««* TOi)f ■TTaTdug' Koct icivrroT cx,XKr)cuvro!.t Trucry^^siv uvtou? u; 
 TToXiuloug v.a,\ vriTTOivsl nQvavai' rx SI •^pyjfjLot.Ta. ocvtuv onifzotrici slvxi, to ob STnoi- 
 x.a,TOv Ispov Tov 'AttoaXuvo^ y.ot,i tdu ^Tpxjfxovog' Toxig oe rTpocraTaj aVayoaipa* 
 avTOvg el; (ttjjAiji' Xidlvriv' ■ijv Se Tig to ^'^(piO-f^cc ai/av|/i)(p/^ej ij kxtxos^stoci 
 ToxiTovg TB-xyv v |tt>)%«i'^ vjTivtovv, TU ^f'^f/.xTa. oiVTOU dtifjioa-ioi. sq-tu, koci otVTog 
 (pivysTu ' AjA,<piTToXiV a.ii(p\jytoiv. 
 
 This inscription contains a decree of perpetual banishment by the 
 people of Amphipolis against two of their citizens, named Philo and 
 
 * <i>£i5yEiv afi^uyi'av, perpetuo exilio mulctari. <I>uyaiv l\ xai /*^ hhrjO-ai xgitriv inroaxt'"'f 
 ^svysTw ctsK^vyictv. — Plato de Leg. 9, p. 871. ed. Serran.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 511 
 
 Stratocles, and their children. If they are ever taken, they are to 
 suffer death as enemies, their property is confiscated to the people, 
 and a tenth of it is to be apphed to the service of Apollo and Strymon. 
 The (magistrates intituled) Prostatas are to inscribe names of the con- 
 demned men upon a pillar of stone ; and if any person revokes the 
 decree, or in any manner whatever gives countenance to the banished 
 persons, his property also is to be forfeited to the people, and he him- 
 self is to be banished from Amphipolis for ever. 
 
 The form of this decree is taken from the laws of the Athenians, 
 of whom the Amphipolitans were a colony. We find all the peculiar 
 expressions of the Amphipolitan decree in one or other of the laws 
 cited by Demosthenes *, in his orations against Aristocrates, iNIidias, 
 and Neaera. The mode of engraving, and the shape of the characters 
 on the stone, indicate the best times of Grecian art ; and the name of 
 Stratocles, one of the banished men, is found in the first Olynthiac 
 oration, as that of one of the ambassadors who went from Amphipolis 
 to Athens, to invite the Athenians to take possession of Amphipolis. 
 It is not impossible, therefore, that he may be the same Stratocles 
 mentioned in the inscription, and that when the party of Philip gained 
 the ascendancy at Amphipolis, a sentence of banishment may have 
 been pi-onounced against him. 
 
 We are surprised to find at Amphipolis a dialect differing so much 
 from the later Attic or Hellenic ; for if the conjecture already pro- 
 posed respecting Stratocles be received, the inscription cannot be 
 
 • N>i7roiv=i T=6vivcci is found in a law quoted in the oration against Aristocrates (p. (>3y. 
 ed. Reiske), and in Andocidcs de Myst. p. 17, 43. 'XlrsojoOv was the Amphipolitan form 
 for riTivio'jv, which word we find in the following clause of a law cited in the oration against 
 Neaera, p. 1350. 'Eav Is fs'voj aaT^ fuvoixp re^vri >) fj-rj^uvfi ^tivioOv, yfa.^=<Ti'ji 'jrpo; rove 
 ©E(r/xo8ETac : and in the oration against Midias, we find rpoVaj ^ ix-rj^avrj ijtjkouv. 
 
 The appropriation of the tenth part to the Deity is mentioned by Andocidcs, in tlie 
 passage just referred to. His words are precisely those of the inscription, 7roX=/xio'f fVrai 
 riuv 'A^rjvaicuv xat vjjTroivl TfSvaTOJ' xai ra ^prifj-ara avTOu lrji/,0(na tjrai xai t^j 5eo5 to sViSsxarov. 
 See also a decree in Plutarch, dc decern Rhetor, in Antiph. and Xenophon Hcllcn. 1. 1. 
 c. 7. ETiSexaTov, 'eTiTveij.7rTov, appear to have been Athenian law terms used only in decrees 
 relating to confiscations. See Harpocrat. in voc.
 
 512 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 older than the 107th Olympiad. We find proofs, however, in several 
 inscriptions still existing in Greece, that the Greeks were often 
 accustomed to preserve the use of the antient and obsolete dialects in 
 their public acts. Among other examples of this, I found an in- 
 scribed marble in Bceotia, upon which were some verses in Hellenic, 
 followed by a decree in the Boeoto-iEolic dialect ; and inscriptions in 
 both dialects ai'e found in several parts of Boeotia. As the Greek 
 colonies were particularly jealous of preserving the vestiges of their 
 origin, customs were often longer preserved there than in the mother 
 countries ; and it may have been with the same feeling that the 
 Amphipolitans adopted the antient Ionic dialect of Attica for their 
 public acts, although it may have been obsolete at Athens, even when 
 the colony of Agnon went to Amphipolis. * 
 
 I copied this Amphipolitan decree from a marble, inserted in a 
 Turkish fountain at Yenikeui, a village situated at six miles from 
 Oi'fana, on the road to Serres. At Yenikeui, and on the hill above 
 it, are found many remains of Amphipolis. In the latter ages of the 
 Byzantine empire these remains had given to a Greek village standing 
 on the site, the appellation of Marmari, Mc(^f/,ix^ioi' -f : the name of 
 Marmara is still attached to the spot, though the village itself has 
 passed away. Yenikeui, or Neochorio, (new village) has been built 
 upon a part of the site, in an imhealthy situation, on the bank of the 
 river, for the sake of the fishery, by which the village is supported. 
 This fishery consists chiefly of the fine eels J, for which the Strymon 
 is still as much renowned as it was in antient times. Its profits are 
 
 * In the 4th year of the 85th Olymp. 437. B. C. 
 f Cantacuzenus, 1. i. c. 53. 
 
 % Two poets, cited by Athenaeus, (1. 7. c. 13.) celebrate the Strymonian eels. Arches- 
 tratus says : 
 
 agiTijj /xeya xctgra. ifsgouo"! 
 
 KcuTTaiai xxi ^Tguao'viai, ftsyaXai ts yag lifri 
 
 Kai TO wa^o: SuvixaiTTat, 
 Antiphanes says : 
 
 T,OTa.}i.o; MVOiice(rfj,evo; 
 
 2Tgu/x«;v fteyitrTa; ky^eX=tc xsXTrjftEVOf.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 513 
 
 farmed from the Porte by the Bey of Zikhna, who commands all the 
 surrounding territory. 
 
 Thucydides has very accurately described Amphipolis, as situated 
 at twenty-five stades from the mouth of the river Strymon, and as 
 being surrounded on two sides by the river, which, a little above the 
 city, makes a considerable marsh or lake. The position of Am- 
 phipolis is one of the most important in Greece. It stands in a pass 
 which traverses the mountains bordering the Strvmonic gulf, and it 
 commands the only easy communication from the coast of that gulf into 
 the great Macedonian plains, which extend for sixty miles from beyond 
 Meleniko to PhiUpju. The Strymon, immediately after emerging 
 from a large lake, makes a half circuit in a deep gorge round the hill 
 of Amphipolis, and from thence crosses a plain of two or three miles 
 in breadth to the sea. The name of Amphipolis was given to the 
 place by the Athenian colonists, from its being surrounded by the 
 river. The singularity of the site accounts no less for the name of 
 Ennea Odoi (nine ways), which it bore prior to the time of the 
 Athenian colony* ; for all the principal communications between the 
 coast and the plains must have traversed this pass. Near the river's 
 mouth on the left bank are the ruins of a town of the Byzantine 
 empire ; built on the site of the antient Eion. These ruins have often 
 been mistaken for those of Amphipolis. 
 
 IX. 
 
 I found the following inscription upon a stone in the village of 
 Dhavlia ; from another side of the same stone I also copied the in- 
 scription which has already been published in the first volume of the 
 present work, from a copy taken by the Earl of Aberdeen. 
 
 OAOSAEHEniTON 1 
 
 APXAFETHNEHEinAA 
 
 • Herod. I.vii. c. 114. 
 VOL. II. 3 U
 
 514 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 T02KAAAMOT2ATO 
 TAAE2H.MEIAK.\IT0T . 
 0P0T2TH2M TPII2E 3 
 
 ilSENXAPAHOTIilKO . 
 NHENT02iTH2ElKAA02 
 TOYAOAEKATOT.MH 
 NOSHM.QXOTAXEX 
 XAPAXOnSIXEnEAET 10 
 
 SOMEXflXATTOTS 
 
 nEPiArpoTAPTnnio . 
 
 KATATHXnPOKOMI50 . . 
 
 SAXXEIPATnOSEPAn . 
 
 AAOItZOnTPOTTOT 15 
 
 ErAIKOYKAITnxnEPI 
 
 *I AOX AS o 2 1 K P ATOTS 
 
 KAIAAMI>XAZimT 
 
 POTAPXOXTnXKPEI . . 
 
 MEXEITIAEinEITfi . 20 
 
 PI0\LQEKTH2AnO<t>A 
 
 2Ei25TH2ETBOYAOT 
 
 TETPAKOSmXTPIAKO . 
 
 TAHENTEnAEGPOX 
 
 TOTTOTEXEIXAnAITH 25 
 
 SIXSEPADIAAAAnO 
 
 THSAAYAIEOXnOAE 
 
 fiSnAPHSAN 
 
 K0TPPI05AYT0B0T 
 
 AOSKEKPIKAKAI 30 
 
 THXnPf2THXES4>PA 
 
 ri5AXIKH<I>0P02AT 
 
 KOMHAOT2KEKPIKA 
 
 ArA2IA2TEIMOXOS 
 
 KEKPIKAnAIAIOS 33 
 
 AAM0HEX02E2<I>PA 
 
 nSATETAPTHXElSIA 
 
 nEMnTHXMHTPOA 
 
 POSAnOAAOAOTOTAN 
 
 TIKTPET2XEIKAPE 40 
 
 TosniSTorrieoPETS 
 
 TYPAXX05TTPAXN0T 
 
 ES^PAFISMAIAKIXAT 
 
 N02KAAAIKPAT0T5T1 
 
 0OPETSSEHKOPXHA1 45 
 
 02A5I0X02ETX0T2 
 
 EnAIPAKA.\.VirEXH2 
 
 ILVE0XElK0TE2*PAriKA 
 
 TI0OPET2
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 515 
 
 « The road to the Archagetes * shall be two calami f in breadth. 
 They shall jointly engrave the landmarks and boundaries of the 
 measurement within the twentieth day of the twelfth month, we com- 
 ing to them, when they shall be engraved. Concerning the land Dryp- 
 pium, we adjudge from a view of the writing % exhibited by Serapias, 
 son of Zopyrus the Ecdicus, and by Philon, son of Sosicrates, and 
 Damon, son of Zopyrus, the archons, that if any thing is wanting to 
 the number of four hundred and thirty plethro, settled by the 
 decision of Eubulus, for this, Serapias has a rightful demand from 
 the city of the Daulians. The following were present : I, Curius 
 Autobulus, adjudged and sealed the first seal ; I, Nicephorus, son of 
 Lycomedes, adjudged; I, Agasias, son of Timon, adjudged ; I, Pub- 
 lius ^Elius Uamoxenus, sealed the fourth seal in like manner ; Metro- 
 dorus, son of Apollodotus, sealed the fifth ; Nicaretus of Tithorea, son 
 of Pistus, Tyrannus, son of Tyrannus, sealed ; Acindynus of Tithorea, 
 son of Callicrates ; Sextus Cornelius Asiochus ; Eunus, son of Epseras ; 
 Calligenes of Tithorea, son of Callinicus, sealed. 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 • It appears from the following passage in Pausanias, Phocic. c. 4. that the Archagetes 
 was the tomb of an antient hero of the Dauiienses. "Eo-ti 8s r^f AawXi'aj X"'P"- "a^ou/xevr) 
 TpoJuV rVTauSa rip-JiOv rjp'jii Ap^riyiTOv TTrTTOiiiTai. 
 
 f The Calamus seems to have been a measure of lines peculiar to Phocis, as the Sphyra, 
 which occurs in the decree of Eubulus, on the other side of the stone, probably was of 
 surfaces in the same province. Supposing the road to have been about fifteen EntrHsh 
 feet in width, the Calamus would be nearly of the same length as the Italian Canna, a 
 word of the same import as Calamus. 
 
 X T^v kxMxl'j x-V"' " ^'^ o^n hand-writing." Hyperides. apud Poll. 
 
 REMARKS ON THE PRECEDING INSCRIPTIONS, 
 
 BY THE EDITOR. 
 I. 
 
 A COPY of this inscription was communicated by INI. Pouqueville 
 to M. Boissonade, who published it in his edition of the Epistles of 
 
 3 u 2
 
 516 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 Holstein, accompanied with a learned commentary. Colonel Leake's 
 copy is more accurate, both with respect to the words themselves 
 and the distribution of the lines. The stone had another inscription, 
 of which part only now remains. 
 
 The variation between the two copies is a sufficient reason for in- 
 serting in this volume the transcript made by Colonel Leake, even 
 after the recent publication of it by Boissonade. 
 
 Pouqueville's copy. L. L TO[. L. 2. nPOMNAM. lb. AFHTA- 
 POXOT AATZEIOT. L. 6. KOYPOnOT -Q. L. 12. ATTO£. L. 14. 
 EIKTIIIN. 
 
 L, 6. The word KOYPOIIOT n is inexplicable. JM. Boissonade 
 supposes KOYPOnOT to be the name of the month ; and he adds, " in 
 n, latet forte diei notatio." 
 
 Boissonade's conjecture respecting the insertion of the month, 
 affords a good explanation of the meaning of the sentence. The 
 word in C. Leake's copy, Kcu^ot^ottov, if it be a month, is mentioned 
 without reference to any particular day. This, however, is not with- 
 out example ; in the Testamentum Epictetae, in jNIafFei Mus. Ver., 
 there is a similar form, EttI Ecpo'pwv tuv a-iiv Ifxi^Tu A.io<r&ijo\j.* " When 
 Himertus and his colleagues were Ephori, in the month Diosthyon :" 
 and thus, in the present inscription, y^xf^i^areo; U^oitov^ MyirfOTroXiTou, 
 
 KOUOOTOOTTOU, 
 
 11. 
 
 AnAOYN we perceive is the Thessalian name of Apollo ; and in this 
 part of Greece f the Pelasgi dwelt, who afterwards founded the cities 
 of Agylla, Tarquinia, and various Etruscan towns. They carried with 
 them into Etruria the same name ; for AIIAT, in Etruscan inscriptions. 
 
 * There is no doubt concerning the meaning of AioaSuou, as in another part of the in- 
 scription we read jU.»)vof Aioo-Suou. 
 
 f Prima di passare in Italia niolto avean abitato gia nel Peloponneso ; di la passarono 
 in Tessaglia. Lanzi. i. 27-
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 517 
 
 is Apollo. In Plato the word appears in the Hellenic form, "A-rrXoq. 
 Colonel Leake refers to a passage in Lycophron, where the epithet 
 KEPAXIIOS is applied to Apollo. In the present instance we may 
 read KEPAOIOT ; the Boeotians, between whose dialect and the Thes- 
 salian there was great affinity, said YlotT^oTog, for -rraT^uog. Etym. 
 M. 224. 37. 
 
 zniinATPOr vocatur in Ep. ad Rom. xvi. 21. qui A. A. xx. 4. 
 est ZuTTocTfioi. Valck. Herod, ed. Wess. p. 418. 
 
 L. 2. nOAEMAPXIAAlOIOQTTAS. :Mr. Dobree proposes to divide 
 the line at nOAEMAPXI^A, and conjectures that some letters preced- 
 ing 0TTAE may have formed a compound Thessalian word. 
 
 If IOZO0YTAS be the word on the marble, we may consider it as 
 used for IEPO0TTH I. * The first O being written in the ^Eolian 
 manner for E, as ONOIPOS for ONEIPOI ; and the following £ for P ; 
 " Ut Valesii et Fusii in Valerios Furiosque venerunt ; ita arbos, labos, 
 vapos, etiam et clainos, ac lases, astatis fuerunt." f " Arbosem pro 
 Arbore, antiqui dicebant ; et Robosem pro Robore." Festus. The 
 Greeks also said ivf.oa-u, transposing the p, for 'tto^'^u, and a^a-ev^ as well 
 as cc^'^sv. ij; 
 
 L. 3. ONEeEIKE. Mv. Dobree refers me to the Cumean marble in 
 Caylus, Rec. t. iii. tab. hi., where we have ONTE0HN. We may add 
 some instances of the /Eolo-Doric use of O for A. The iEolians said 
 TTOfi/OTra? for ■uolfvoTTotg : Treyroa-x^ for TTsira.iTx'^i OCCUrs in Epicharmus : 
 xoSapa? for >ia6ap«j, in the Tab. Herac. : (c^oxiug for (^^xyjug, in Hesy- 
 chius. Joannes Grammaticus quotes ovu for «.vu, c/tXi^Tui for uviXrjai. 
 See Greg, de Dial, ed Schaefer. p. 455. 
 
 L. 4. APXIAATXNA<DOPEIIAI. Mr. Dobree supposes, with great 
 probability, that Sosipater was APXIATXNHOOPOI. As the in- 
 
 • The iEolians, in some cases, used T for 0, as in xaTsigcoo-ij ; but they also substituted 
 forT; in the BcEoto->?i^olic decree of Orchomenus, we read AIIOAEAOAN©!, and the 
 Etruscans retained the same ^^olism in Thelephe for Telephus, Adrcsthe for Adrastus, as 
 we learn from Lanzi. In the present instance they have made no change of the 0. 
 
 f Quint, i. c. 4. Varro de L. L. 6'. 3. 
 
 I See Maittaire de D. ed. Sturzii. 508.
 
 518 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 scription was carefully copied by Colonel Leake, we must retain the 
 letters AT in AATXNOE : and as the works on the Dialects give no 
 instance of the /Eolian or Doric use of AT for T, we shall endeavour 
 to illustrate this form. 
 
 We know how great a degree of holism prevailed in the Etruscan 
 lano-uage. This iEolism was derived from the Pelasgi, who left 
 Thessaly, and settled in Etruria. Now the Etruscans, as v/e learn 
 from Lanzi, wrote Laucina for Lucina, Laucil. for Lucilius, Lauchme 
 for Lucumo, Laucania for Lucania. 
 
 But the Greek languase will furnish us with some instances where 
 AT is used for T. 
 
 QTyLoiXuTTBg, oi x.£KOi\iiJt,ivoi uv^^axic, ^ TifAlicocvrcc ^uXx, -? a-TTaSyj^eg. (Phot. 
 Lex. MS., quoted in the notes to Hesych. in v. (iu[^aXu\\/.) 
 
 @ATf/,ixXco7reg, ol 7!f>i,i(pXsKT0i ixvSftaKsg' doi<l^tki yot,^ to xaOo-a;. (Etym. M. ) 
 
 We may here observe that there can be no doubt respecting the 
 orthography of QcfuyAxuTrsg, in the passage of the Etymolog. as the 
 word is classed with others beginning with ©AT. But it is singular 
 that QxA/cci should remain unaltered, both in the passage now cited, and 
 in Hesychius. The recollection of the numner in which the neoteric 
 Greeks pronounced AT*, a mode still continued in the present day, 
 led me to suppose that Sa'ipa; had been written by a copyist for SaCio-ai, 
 and this supposition is confirmed by finding in H. Stephens in v. Qccv- 
 l^xXuTTsg, a reference to the words of the Etym. 6x^x1 yd ft to j- Kcciia-ai, 
 with this remark, " nisi forte Gxija-xi scripsit." / 
 
 If we turn to the fragments of the Alimes of Sophron, we read, <pe^e 
 TO 9xui^xKT^ov, ii.a,-7ri9u(na>fA,ig, " bring the censer, and let us burn in- 
 cense ;" where, according to the remark of the Critic, who has col- 
 lected and edited these fragments in the Classical Journal, 9xu[ji.xkt^ov 
 is Doric for Qvf^xxT^ov. We may here adduce an illustration of this 
 
 * AipSevTYi; pro au9lvT»]f scriberc amabaiit, et xKa^ifj-ov pro xxducrifjiov, et alia sexcenta 
 similiter. Salm. His. Aug. Not. p. 467. 
 
 f " In the Etym. the true reading is possihbj 9a5j/ai, a mistake for W\|;ai. Schol. 
 Acharn. 320. 6 cf!:oXeK=tfx.fj.=vo; T^f S6^:-Ms av^a^." Dobree.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 529 
 
 word from Hesychius ; not as the passage is given in the printed 
 editions, but as it is preserved in the manuscript, according to the 
 collation by Schow *, Quri, GAY^ara, u^i^iA.xTct. Musurus altered the 
 second word into du[/,xTo!.. 
 
 It appears also from the observations of the Critic whom I have 
 cited above, that the Tarentines said SxvXoiXi^en/ for SvAaxi^etv. ©au- 
 
 XxKi^siv, fiiTo, fdorji cIttuiteTv ti. Toc^xvTivoi. Hesychius. @vXa.Ki(^siv, to 
 
 ocTTctirilv Ti i-TTOLLivcv y.BTa OuXccKou. Tapxt/Tivoi. Id. In these references 
 he supposes that one gloss has been improperly divided by Hesychius, 
 or some of the iNIutilators of the Lexicon ; and that the passage 
 should be read thus : 6auXa«/^£iV, QvXoiKi^eiv, to uttocitsTv ti bttouevov ustcc 
 SvXaxov. T ufiOcvTivoi. 
 
 Avxvyi'r°?°? ^"d Xvxvo(po^og were both used. esTiTroXuv, OvriTroXo;, 6civu~ 
 Tij^opof, XccfA.7ro(.h^o^o;, ^i(P7ipof,o;, txa-TriSyj^d^og, are found in ^Eschylus 
 and Plato. The poets used this form to avoid the concurrence of 
 four short syllables. See Blomfield on Sep. C.T. v. 415. Gloss. 
 
 The word in Colonel Leake's copy is APXIAATXN. The substi- 
 tution of A for A need not detain us. Ta a-va-ariTia. ol AuKS^KifJiovioi OIAI- 
 TIA ■7T^o(TO(,yofB\jcv(riv, etre cig OIAIAS y.ul <piXo^f>o(njvr,g UTrapyf^ovTuv, ccvt) tou A 
 
 TO A Xdf^fiuvovTug. Plut. vit. Lycurgi. The change of A and A occurs 
 in other instances ; MeXeraf is meiUtari-\; oSua-irevg is Ulysses ; Livius 
 Andronicus used Dacrhna for Lacryma ; ccSxKpvg is alacris ; oSuVtvxi 
 olere X, and odefacit and olfacit are given by Festus. The inhabit- 
 ants of Perga in Pamphylia used A instead of A : Xat^i/j;, ^(i.^vvi : and 
 some Greeks pronounced xia-x.og as well as Sla-Kog. § 
 
 III. 
 
 " iEschylis daughter of Satyrus." S ATTPOI, according to the lEolo- 
 Doric form, as V7r(x,y.oi(rov for V7rxx.oua-ov, XtTroKTx, kxtQuvoTitoc, SiSoi (for J/Jou) 
 
 * Supplcm. ad Edit. Hesycli. Albertinam. p. 365. The word iuiu-aTo. also is found in 
 Hesychius, under '\qu. Qu(rlui, Sav/iara. 
 f Servius in Vir. Eciog. \, 2. 
 X Vict, de Arte Gram. 1. ]. See Maittaire de Dial. 
 § See Hesycli. in. Aa^vi] and AiVxo;
 
 520 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 KotTTolg vofji,otg for •.'.utx roug vofiovc. See Greg, de Dial. ed. Schaefer. 
 212. 618. 
 
 IV. 
 
 L. 2. ONOHN. See Euripides. Suppl. 
 
 o^iv T ey-txaTov stg to <rufjC d(ptx,STO, 
 IvTxvd' aTT^X^s" 7rvBU[/.(x, fiBv TT^og didepa, 
 TO crct)i/,tx. a sig yTjv. 
 
 L. 3. riATPI. So in Anthol. Pal. App. Epig. 375., Trarp) xIttovt" 
 
 ax^oe, and p. 345., ttoct^i t Sf/,u f^iycc Trij^M sXiTTov xotl jWijrpt TuXctivr. 
 
 L. 4. ANAPriAEGEIE. " Rapfi diciintur quivis mortui, sed pe- 
 culiariter immatura morte defuncti ; Papinius de Glaucia, " hie finis 
 rajjto." In Gruter, Rapta sinu matris jacet hie miserabilis infans. — 
 Rein. Ins. 727. 
 
 L. 4. EllTA. The compound form is commonly used ; y.ilfj.oit ^' 
 B^ouTLC. UiVTotiTvig J' ly.oy.viv. Anth. Pal. 345. 368. 
 
 V. 
 
 L. 3. The privilege of 7rpo|£v/a is thus expressed by the Latins : 
 " Decernunt ut L. fratri hospitium publico fieret." Cicero, Verr. 4. 
 
 L. 6. EN. The Dorians and Laconians use EN for EII. In the 
 Lacedaemonian decree relating to Timotheus, TrapajcXaSe)? SI ku] Iv rov 
 dyuvx, according to the reading of Boethius and Scaliger. 'Ev dff.ca.Ta, 
 in Pindar, Py. Od. 2. 21. * 
 
 L. 10. A decree in the Oxford marble XLIX is signed also by the 
 Eyyuoi. 
 
 VII. 
 
 L. 8. GEHKOAON. The Greeks seem to have used indiscriminately 
 SeriKoXog and SsoKoXog. The former occurs in the present inscription ; in 
 
 7 ~ 
 
 • See also Valck. on Theocr. 364.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 521 
 
 Elis also they said QeriKoXoTo;, or, according to the reading of Facius, 
 cited by Col. Leake, SsifxoXof. But on a marble found not far from 
 Basilico, we read OI 0EOKOAOI TOT AnOAAXlNOZ, (Marm. Oxon.) 
 and 0EOKOAHSASAN, in the Zantiote inscription edited by Chandler. 
 GeoKoXoi also occurs in Hesychius. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 L. 3. OEOrEIN. EO and ET were both used in the antient lan- 
 guage of Greece, in writing the same word ; OTTEO, OTTET * oc- 
 cur in Homer; and OPZEO, and OPIET. f 
 
 If Stratocles J, mentioned in the inscription, be one of the persons 
 referred to by Demosthenes, in his third Olynthiac oration, which was 
 spoken in the 107th Olympiad, we are able to fix the date of it. The 
 old form of the language might remain in use at that time in Am- 
 phipolis ; while at Athens the new Attic, which began to prevail 
 about the time of iEschines and Demosthenes §, was generally spoken. 
 Col. Leake has referred to inscriptions where the use of the antient 
 dialects is still found, after the Communis Lingua was introduced. 
 
 Some of the old forms are retained in the prose and poetry of the 
 Attic Greeks ; the Ionic njcV is in ^Eschylus, S. C. T. 62., and in Eur. 
 Med. 523. N»;a? occurs in the same writer, in Iph. in Au. 248. || '?«- 
 6fiOiif a singular example, is in a senarian Iambic, in the H Persae : 
 o'UoiiTi, in Soph. QCd. T. 249. Tcia-iv xaivoTa-i 6eoig, in Aristoph. Av. 847. 
 rioXtoc, vjcfeoc, o(peoc, are found in Eur. Hec. 860. Aristoph. Plut. 1045., 
 and Eur. Sup. 703. 1329. ; xuKoia-tv, in Plato Gor. p. 110., and tocvtokti, 
 ib. p. 28. ; Trpoo-iJesTa/, in Xenophon iNIem. Socr. iii. 6. 13. ; and Mo-- 
 
 * Od. .. 124. X- 377. g. 121. 
 t II. y. 250. a. 261. 
 
 I See Col. Leake's remarks on this marble. 
 
 § See Nicepkorus in Schol. on Synesius, in Thom. Magis. note, p. 579. 
 
 II Matthiae, Gr. G. Blomfield, p. 96. vol. h 
 f Blomfield in Pers. 503. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 X
 
 522 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 6txi, Anab. vii. 7. 31. Zeunius has left To7g kkkovoois in the text of 
 Xenoph. Cyrop. viii. 2. 
 
 'But lonisms are also found in the writers in the Communis Lingua ; 
 and in scholiasts and grammarians. MsrfUTov 'ix^sv ro -ttotov, according to 
 a MS., is in Plutarch Mor. t. ii. 618. ; and in Xenophon Ephes. 53, 
 ed. Loc. IMto A^iooKo^vig il-TTuv. Hermias in Comm. MS. in Plat. Phaed. 
 has fiota-Tiyuv Sesrtxi y,txXi(rTa. The Scholiast on Lucian, t. i. 525., to 
 yap 6e7ov ov SisTxt 9ua-iuv. * The three antient forms, [3ouXe:, oi-zt, oif/e;, 
 are found in the Sep. and N. Test. ; Job xxxiv. 12., Luke xxii. 42., 
 Matt, xxvii. 
 
 ATTOS KAI TOE. We find the short vowels used in these words, 
 although in the same decree the long letters are introduced. The 
 orthography of other Greek inscriptions has the same irregularity. 
 In one of the Oxford marbles, XXIV., we read BOAHr, EnirPA(l)EN, 
 ATTOr, (in the plural), nOAEni, TPES for TPEIZ : O for OY occurs 
 in inscr. xxi. of the 99th Olympiad ; and in the same we have 
 XEIPOI. 
 
 NI-inOINEI TESNANAI, " inultum mori, adeo ut reus homicidii non 
 sit interfector." Kuhn. ad Polluc. viii. 70. 
 
 IPON TOT AnOAAflNOi:. Quibus genius Grascee linguae perspectus 
 est,iis mini me latet, to tspoV passim frequentius cum secundo quam tertio 
 casu construi ; ut nimiruni quidpiam quod Deo alicui sacrum sit, di- 
 catur isoov ToZ 620V potius quam -u 6sm. Reperio Latinos quoque ita 
 locutos. Cic. 1. in Verrera. 18., " ilia insula eorum Deorum sacra 
 putatur." Jensii Lee. Luc. 286. 
 
 OTEXIIOTN. 'Otemi/ re ttoXiv. Odyss. a. 19.; uvrtvuv, Schol. ; OTioi(nv, 
 11. 0. 491. ; oTa-Tic-tv, Schol. " Homer retains, with the rest of the 
 Ionic writers, the unchanged in all the cases, e. g. or^v, Od. f'. 424., 
 and oTTiv, oTTBo, Od. d. 124. V. 377. §'. 121., for yjo-nvoc, ovrmg.^^ 
 Matthise, G. Gram. Blomfield, i. 191. "Onu occurs in II. 0. 664. 
 
 " Whoever receives the exiles shall himself be banished." This is 
 
 * Schaefer ad Greg, de Dial. 431.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 523 
 
 also said conformably to an Attic law. 0« vof^ot ovk lua-tv CvoSexio-Qai tuv 
 (pivyovTuv oudivoC i; h Toig avToTg KeXeuov(riv evs^iaSat tov UTro^i-xpfj.ivov touj 
 
 (pivyovTo.?. Demos, against Polycles. 
 
 IX. 
 
 L. 3. KAAAMOTr. ^^X'^ f/iT^ov xuXeefjiov ;:(^pu(roi;j/. Apocal. 21. 16. 
 " Habebat perticam auream, quae erat mensorium instrumentum." 
 Grotius. 
 
 L. 5. OPOTSENXAPAHOYII. The stone on which the boundaries 
 were written was called o^ixTog xi^oq. 
 
 L. 16. EECAIKOI defen sores civitatum erant, et imprimis etiam pub- 
 licas pecunias curabant et persequebantur. Pitiscus in Sueton. 2. 
 p. 906. 
 
 L. 25. AriAITHIIN. " Glossas veteres el'(nrf,x^tv, d7rcciTt;(riv" Vales. 
 on Ammianus ]\Iarc. 302. 
 
 L. 35. nAlAIOS 
 
 AAMOEENOIESOPA 
 
 nSATETAPTHNEIIIA 
 
 nEMOTHNMHTPOA. 
 
 POS K. T. X. 
 
 Perhaps EIIinN *, EI being written for I, as in KPEINXl. « I, Pub- 
 lius iElius Damoxenus sealed. Ision sealed the fourth ; JNletrodorus 
 of Anticyra, the fifth." 
 
 L. 43. This name occurs in the Anthologia, p. 129. H. Steph. 
 
 ev 7ra.(riv fjiEQuoua-iv 'AxlvSwo? vQeXs vrjCpsw. 
 
 EI2Ii2N TPT<I)i2N02. Chandler, p. 66. 
 
 3x2
 
 524 
 
 LETTER FROM MR. COCKERELL, 
 
 BELATIN6 TO 
 
 THE INSCRIPTIONS ENGRAVED IN THE ANNEXED PLATE. 
 
 Dear Sir, 8, Old Burlington-street, June 17. 1819. 
 
 I HAVE the pleasure of sending you four inscriptions, collected in 
 Lycia, during my tour on that coast in 1812 ; the character in which 
 they are written is found also at Telmessus and Myra. 
 
 No. 1. was copied near the town of Phineka, on the border of the 
 plain, and is remarkable for its termination in Greek : the monument 
 on which it is inscribed is of marble, about 18 feet high, and of the 
 most elegant architecture ; its execution is hardly inferior to that of 
 the best works at Athens. The upper portion, as well as the lower, 
 was calculated for the reception of the dead ; but each had long since 
 been despoiled of its contents. 
 
 Nos. 2. and 3. were found at Kakava, on the shore opposite Doli- 
 chiste ; they are exceedingly well cut on the face of a rock, and each 
 of the excavated chambers contained six sarcophagi ; the projecting 
 cornice had, in that mild climate, preserved the inscriptions entire, 
 and even the red colour with which the characters were marked. 
 
 No. 4. was found on a tomb of the same kind, but which had in 
 addition upon the frize a vf.K^oSiiTs-vov, consisting of ten figures about 
 six inches high, in bas relief, and of the best times. 
 
 It is remarkable that all the sculpture found on these monuments 
 is evidently by Greek hands, and in the purest style of art ; less rigid, 
 indeed, than that which is commonly understood by the appellation of
 
 /. /. 
 
 Af5^PFF T^SjEAf PE'!A:M;^, 
 
 AFAEtfBEStTEAt£/A£r|EC 
 Af (f TonAHMAToAF/^^'' 
 
 ^/vroCYro^EAYTXllKAITf^rf^ 
 %XlKAlY[ArrYafA AN</=-^ • 
 
 /' 
 
 r? 
 
 hP°E:5tTEAtE/i^°t-^l3Elto 
 
 
 
 
 '^_./ **"«-Ar^^.^«« .>-»l fir.w^ /■.-
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. ^^5 
 
 Etruscan, but still severe, and having many of the characteristics of 
 that manner. 
 
 At Phineka, also, is a tomb of great beauty, on the sides of which, 
 in the solid rock, are figures of low relief in procession, of the most 
 elegant design, and as large as life ; they bear offerings to the tomb, 
 four on one side, and two on the other. To the west of Kakava is 
 another, of fewer figures, but of equal merit. 
 
 The bas relief on the side of No. 2. represents a youth, holding in 
 his left hand a piece of drapery, perhaps a net, under which is a 
 partridge : it was probably intended to commemorate some antient 
 sportsman, who had found Kakava not less abundant in that species of 
 game than it is at present ; whence, indeed, it derives its modern 
 name, as Meletius tells us. 
 
 The architecture of these tombs, excavated in the solid rock, occurs 
 all along the coast of Lycia, and seems peculiar to this country ; some 
 have conjectured them to be funeral piles; but, however this may 
 be, it is evident that they are in imitation of a wooden construction ; 
 the cornice is formed of a beam laid on transverse rafters, unsquared, 
 and in their natural state ; and the framing (as it would be technically 
 termed) shows the cross pieces of which it is formed, halved upon each 
 other, and the ends left uncut ; the bottom, or sill, has the form of a 
 piece of ship timber applied to this purpose. There are other ex- 
 amples in the roofs of various tombs, presenting a similar character ; 
 they have the form of a Gothic pointed arch, and are like the section 
 
 of a boat reversed, thus : /^ \ 
 
 The doors were in pannels, and one of them was made to open by 
 sliding back in a groove ; of all these the execution is very perfect, 
 &c. &c. Yours faithfully, 
 
 C. R. COCKEBELL.
 
 526 
 
 JIEMARKS 
 
 ON THE 
 
 INSCRIPTIONS DISCOVERED IN ASIA MINOR, 
 
 BY COLONEL LEAKE AND MR.COCKERELL. 
 
 [Br THE EDITOR.] 
 
 The conquest of Thessaly, by Deucalion, forced the Pelasgi to quit 
 that country ; and the traditional accounts of the Greeks had pre- 
 served the names of many towns in Asia Minor, which owed their 
 origin to them. Among these Pelasgic settlements, we find Sestos, 
 Abydos, Cume *, Larissa -f-, Adramyttium i, Antandros §. Some of 
 the colonies from Greece had fixed themselves as far as || Tralles ; 
 and a son of Tantalus H, a Pelasgic king in the vicinity of Sipylus, 
 founded a town in Phrvgia. 
 
 One of these colonies, we are informed by Plutarch**, came 
 from Thessaly to Lydia. The time of its arrival may be stated 
 at about the year 1370 B. C. After the Trojan war, an emigration 
 from this part of Asia Minor took place under Tyrrhenus, son 
 of Atys f f ; and his followers, who accompanied him to Italy, 
 
 * Rochette, i. 284. Histoire des Colonies Grecques. 
 t lb. i. 28-1. 289. 
 % Schol. Horn. II. vi. 396. 
 § Herod, lib. vii. 42. 
 
 II Ai youv TpaXAsif to jxev irctKam TleXaa-yaiv yiyovtv atrotxla. Agath. lib. ii. Rochette, 
 i. 183. 
 
 f Clavier, i. 236. Histoire des premiers temps de la Grece. 
 ** In Romulo. 
 fj- Lanzi, i. 189.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 527 
 
 became, according to the opinion of many modern writers, confirmed 
 by the antient testimonies of Herodotus *, Strabo, PUny, Valerius 
 Maximus, Appian, and Justin, the founders of the Etruscan people. 
 The Etruscans themselves, in the time of Tiberius f, considered their 
 origin to have been Asiatic ; for in writing to the citizens of Sardis, 
 they allude to the relation which formerly subsisted between the two 
 countries. 
 
 It is impossible to speak with any degree of certainty concerning 
 the nature of the Pelasgic Greek :j:, which was in use among the 
 antient Tyrrhenians of Lydia. The ^Eolic and Ionian colonies, under 
 Penthilus and Neleus, made their settlements at first on the coast of 
 Asia Minor ; yet it is very probable that the knowledge of their 
 language was soon spread as far as the neighbouring provinces of 
 Phrygia and Lydia. The general appearance of the two Lydo- 
 Phrygian inscriptions found in this part of Asia, and engraved 
 in the plate facing p. 207., is evidently Greek ; yet they present also 
 a variety sufficiently great to confirm the opinion, that the Etruscans 
 were sprung from the early inhabitants of the country where these 
 singular documents were found. We see in them the same use of the 
 Digamma ; the same form of letters ; the names and verbs §, which 
 occur in the Etruscan languaoe. 
 
 It deserves to be here remarked, that the opinion of the Asiatic 
 origin of the Etruscans was entertained as a very probable one by 
 Salmasius, long before the question received that full discussion 
 
 * yizQ Lanzi, Saggio. vol. iii. Circa la Scoltura, x. 
 
 f Tacitus, Ann. iv. 55. 
 
 J I have adopied Lanzi's opinion respecting the language of the Pelasgi : " Esso troppo 
 verisimilmente fu in origine un Greco anticho. i. 27. Congettura Erodoto che fosse bar- 
 baro, ma non I'assevera. Qiiesta espressione non csclude un vero Greco, perche sia niisto 
 di vari vocaboli foreslieri e di solecismi. lb. 441. 
 
 § Tlie rounded form of the M is only found in this inscription, and in the Etruscan 
 alphabet in the Bib. Ital. xviii. The latter also gives the round N. The 11 in this shape 
 p, is used by the Etruscans (Lanzi, 2.) ; it occurs also on the antient vase of Mr. Dodwell, 
 and on the votive helmet belonging to Colonel Leake, and fouud at Olympia.
 
 jCgg GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 which has since been bestowed on it by the industry and acuteness of 
 Lanzi, and other Italian antiquaries. In a letter to Peiresc, part of 
 which I extract from the Bib. Ital. t. xviii., Salmasius expresses 
 himself in the following manner : " Les caracteres semblent etre tout 
 Grecs ; mais de savoir s'ils les ont apportes tels de la Li/die, ce queje 
 croirois volontiers ; ou s'ils les ont pris sur les lieux, par le voisinage 
 des ^Eoliens, ou Arcadiens venus avec Evandre : — c'est la grande 
 question." 
 
 The following appears to be the interpretation of the line at * c. d. 
 This, as well as the other, is sculptured on the rock, out of which the 
 Tomb is made, and probably refers to the structure of the Sepulchre. 
 
 As the stops after MIAAI and ANAKTEI plainly mark the termin- 
 ation of the words f , we may consider them as employed for the same 
 purpose through the rest of the inscription. 
 
 nAITA is a common Etruscan :J: name, written by the iEolians BABA, 
 as l3tx^ov for miCQOv^, and Kaf^f^aSm for KoiTTTrdSiov. MEMEAI is also a 
 proper name, written with AT, as oXsa-ats, Trcir.a-xig., f^eXcm;, ru'ipa;?. II 
 
 The next name is n^oinc?, or U^otTxcn; : if we prefer the first, it is 
 written in the inscription with a, as " A^Tajxi;, la^og. The verb follows, 
 to which the preceding are nominative cases. 
 
 The scholar will recollect that in one of the Sigean inscriptions, the 
 letter K in KAIIKA, is either, as Chishull II expresses himself, " otio- 
 sum," or it is wrongly sculptured for E. In one of the Oxford 
 
 * See the plate, facing p. 207. 
 
 f A similar mode of punctuation is found on the following antient monuments: on the 
 Sigean stone; on the Athenian inscription, beginning EPEX0EIAOS ; on the marble 
 copied at ^]gina by Mr. Cockerell ; on the Teian imprecations, edited by Chishull ; on 
 the Elean tablet, explained by Mr. Knight ; on the Eugubine tables ; on a lamina Volsca, 
 mentioned by Lanzi, i. 280 ; and on an inscription copied in the cave of Vari, in Attica, 
 by Mr. Stanhope. 
 
 X Papa e nome di famiglia Etrusca nota per piil lapidi. Lanzi, ii. 144. Ba/3uj is a 
 Phrygian name. Athen. 1. xiv. p. 624. 
 
 § Plut. Grajc. Quaes, t. ii. c. 9. See also Salmas. in H. A. notes, p. 390. 
 
 II Greg, de D. p. 601. 
 
 f Ant. As. p. 33.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 529 
 
 marbles this error may be observed, TPKIS for TPEII. It will also 
 be remembered, that in the Sigean inscriptions, Z and L have the same 
 power. * The verb, then, is E<I)ISAN or EK<I)EISAN. But Pheia and 
 riiiaia are verbs in the Eugubine tables, signifying " faciant" and 
 " faciat." t 
 
 " Papa, Memeas, Proeteus, made (the tomb)." 
 
 'ETTOiriu-oiv in common Greek ; or, KOISAN, e^iTrotrjO-av, l^e-n-oir.a-av, 
 " finished" it ; the e being omitted, as in the Etruscan TECE {iQriKi). 
 
 AFESOI, or AESOI, may be a name ; as well as SIKEMEMAN, writ- 
 ten for IIKEMIMAI, like UoXv^xv for OoXu^aV J : they precede a verb of 
 
 which we have only a part, EAAES e^x'l'-xv^, referrino- to some 
 
 labour || employed in cutting down the rock out of which the tomb is 
 made. 
 
 The singular characters represented in the plate accompanying 
 Mr. Cockei-ell's letter, were found by him on some of the sepulchral 
 monuments belonging to the antient Lycians ; the style of architec- 
 ture, and the form and general appearance of these buildings, may be 
 collected from the description of them contained in his letter, and 
 from the etching presented by him to this volume. 
 
 The southern coast of Asia Minor, from Halicarnassus to the 
 bay of Issus, was peopled by numerous Greek colonies. Some 
 of these settlements are refen-ed to a period immediately follow- 
 ing the Trojan war. The Pamphylians, we are informed by He- 
 rodotus H, take their origin from the soldiers who wandered with 
 
 * nPOKOXEZIO, 2IAEIEZ. See also the antient alphabets in Astle's Origin and 
 Proirress of Wrilinff. 
 
 f Lunzi, iii. 820. PHI, in Etruscan, corresponds to ttoicS : sometimes to " fio." Lanzi. 
 
 X Lanzi, i. 113. 
 
 J The E being used for the I, as in 'Av;y/xa for 'Aiviyjaa. See Hesychius. Aa'^cov, 
 xaTaxoTTTccv. Hcsych. Aa/aj, SiaxoTrra). Etym. M. Aar^gioc, " divisor," from lico, divido. 
 See Blomfield, Gloss, ad v. 70S. S. C. T. We have in Strabo, I. xii. 77S. Ox. ed. 
 SiaxoTT^ Tou oqovi, speaking of an opening in a mountain. 
 
 II See also Colonel Leake's interpretation of EAAE, in p. 212. of this volume. 
 
 f L.vii. c. 91. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 Y
 
 530 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 Amphilochus and Calchas ; and the former of these chiefs, together 
 with Mopsus, founded many maritime towns in CiHcia. * Among 
 the colonies of a later period, we may mention those of Nagidos and 
 Celenderis "f, established by the Samians ; Aspendus, by the Ar- 
 gives X ; Side, by the Cumeans ; Selge, by the § Laced a? m on i an s ; 
 Caunus II, Physcus, Phaselis, Gagse, and Corydallus 1[, by the Rho- 
 dians ; and Soli, by the Argives. ** 
 
 The grammarians have preserved a few of the singular forms which 
 were in use among the Dorians who settled on this coast. The 
 Pamphylians said f f (pa'/2o? for (pdog, o^ovf^u for o^ovw, l2ul3eXiov for asAioi/, 
 TTcivixt for 7roi7!(rcii, f/,m}cci for [/,ov(riK.a, and dSo'' for dv^^i. 
 
 It is much to be regretted that no monuments are yet discovered, 
 which would give additional illustrations of the dialect spoken by the 
 Greeks on this part of Asia Minor. On one of the sepulchral inscrip- 
 tions in Mr. Cockerell's copy, we have, in Doric, zJa'pio?, the name of 
 the man who constructed the tomb for his wife; and a similar appel- 
 lation, though belonging to a woman, occurs in Diodorus Sic. lib. i. 
 312, I'Treyyif^s rrjv ovof^a^ojicivTiv Zi^vj^ovv. See Greg, de D. Schaefex", 428. 
 
 In addition, however, to the letters and words of the common Greek 
 language, it appears from ]\Ir. Cockerell's plate, and from inscriptions 
 copied by Dr. Clarke, and Captain Beaufort:)::!:, and from various 
 coins § §, that the inhabitants of Caria, Lycia, and Pamphylia were ac- 
 
 * Cicero de Div. I. i. c. 40. -f- Pom. Mela. i. c, 1 3. 
 
 X Sti-abo, 1. 14. § Id. 1.12. 
 
 II Id. 1. 14. ^ See Rochette, Histoire des Colonies Grecques, ill. 157. 
 
 ** Polyb. Exc. Leg. c. xxv. Liv. 1. 3/. c. 5C. -f-f- Heraclides in Eustath. p.lG54. 1.20. 
 
 X% This inscription was found by him in Caria: 
 
 AB^B X X xF r^A< AT 
 ?P5 WPfi- At S C I E I PyH 
 
 £ ^A l^/K ^ A^'^ 1 1 p I XXXXA+ M 
 
 55 Mionnet. Des. des Medailles, t. iii. 59G. N/^=^yX^. These letters appear on a 
 Pamphylian coin.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 531 
 
 customed to employ an enchorial character very different from the 
 language of the Greek colonists. 
 
 We find from Strabo*, that four idioms were in use at Cihyra; 
 the Lycaonian tongue f was different from the Greek ; and althouo-h 
 upon the introduction of the latter into Asia Minor, after the time 
 of Alexander, new names were given to different cities and places, 
 yet the original appellations remained. NiT(^//S<oi/ was the Jrmcman 
 name of a town which the Greeks called Antiochia Mygdonia ; the 
 rolXcxToci, as Salmasius X remarks, were never known by that appel- 
 lation among their own countrymen. The Carians § were acquainted 
 with Greek, which they pronounced in a corrupted manner ; but their 
 national idiom is mentioned by Strabo and Plutarch. || 
 
 In Mr. Cockerell's inscriptions we see words belonging to the 
 native language of the inhabitants of this part of Asia, written in 
 Greek letters ; there are also characters which probably belonged to 
 some oriental dialect. A frequent intercourse existed between parts 
 of Asia jNIinor and different nations of the East. The citizens of 
 Perga in Pamphylia worshipped Adonis under the name of Aboba; 
 and this is a Syrian appellation. H The Lycian guide, who was to 
 lead Alexander to the frontiers of Persia, was, by his mother's side, a 
 Persian. ** On some of the coins of Cilicia, there is a representation 
 of a bearded head, attired in the Persian manner ff, and of two of the 
 singular characters which were in use in this part of the country. 
 The Carians were liyXua-iroi ; they understood Persian as well as 
 Greek : Tissaphei^nes sends a Carian to INIindarus, the Spartan ; the 
 
 * L. 13. f See Jabloiiski, de Lingua Lycaonica. 
 
 \ Praef. ad lib. de annis Climac. p. IG. 
 
 § BagjSctgop'Mvou;. Strabo's interpretation is xx>iu>; 'EXX);vi^ovra,-. 
 
 II 'O 7rgopr,T>js Kagix^ y\ii<j<Tr, 7rjci(7=i7r£v. in. Arist. Sonic Carian v.-ords are ^iven by 
 Jablonski, and his editor, Te Water. See also Strabo, 1. 14. p. 916". 
 
 f Jal)ionski de Ling. Lye. § 12. 
 
 ** '\\yz\t.jit iyraj Ci'y>,a;!r(7o; av^guj-ao; ex Trargo; Auxiou, fj.r\Tgoc Ss ri-g(7i'8of ysyovw^. Plut, 
 in vit. Alex. 
 
 ff Mioniict. t. 3. pi. xxii. " Coiffce a la maniere des rois de Perse." 
 
 3 y 2
 
 532 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 younger Cyrus, treating with the Greeks, uses Carian * interpreters ; 
 Mardonius commissions one to consult a Greek oracle. Ittrofj f, a 
 Phoenician word, was used by the people of Phaselis ; in consequence 
 of their vicinity to the Solymi ij:, who spoke Phoenician, they probably 
 intermixed words of that tongue with their own speech. The name 
 of the celebrated mountain Chimrera, in Lycia, on which fire is con- 
 stantly burning, is Phcenician. § In Cappadocia, the names of many 
 of the months were Persian || ; and fire altars, where the ceremonies 
 were conducted according to the Persian manner, were seen so late 
 as the time of Pausanias and Strabo. H 
 
 It would be an useless labour to endeavour to decypher or explain 
 the characters in use among a people of whom we have no literary 
 records, and from whose monuments we have not yet obtained a suf- 
 ficient number of inscriptions to aflford us the means of comparing 
 them with each other, and with the Greek. The latter appears on 
 these sepulchres to be united with the language of the Asiatics. The 
 vicinity of the two people led to the use of the two idioms; and the 
 barbarians ** (for so the inhabitants of this country were called by the 
 Greeks) prove the intercourse which must have subsisted between 
 themselves and the colonies established among them, by the style and 
 mode of structure adopted in forming their tombs. But the Greek 
 language was corrupted in consequence of this communication. 
 When the lonians arrived in Asia Minor, by intermixing with the 
 Carians, they vitiated their pronunciation ; they altered the quantity 
 
 * Valcken. in Herod. Wes?. 682. See also Thuc. 1. 8. 
 
 f See Hesychius in the word 2io"o')), and the notes. 
 
 ^ TXaKTo-av ij.ev <i>oivi<7<Tav cctto (rroix-irMv atpievTss. See Heringa, Obs. 157.; and the 
 passage from Bochart, quoted in the note on 2i<ro'>), in Hesychius. 
 
 § Chamirah, adiista. Spanheim de P. et usu Num. 267. from Le Clerc. Captain Beau- 
 fort, in his Caramania, gives an account of his visit to this " Perpetual Flame." 
 
 II Freret in Ac. des Insc. t. xix. p. 55. 
 
 f L. 15. p. 1040. ed. Oxf. 
 
 ** Bag^agoi is the term given by Arrian to the citizens of Tclmessus and Selge. Ex. 
 Alex. 1. 1. We meet with some of the names of these Asiatics in the Greek inscriptions 
 from Lycia and Pamphylia, published in this volume; AA2, KOTAS, OBPAOTEEPIS.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 533 
 
 of the syllables in some words ; they used (pupf/^xKog* with the penulti- 
 mate long ; they also said euuro;, ^io-rroTix, aTreXea-dcti. f The Scythian, 
 in Aristophanes, uses a similar barbarism when he pronounces ttuXu^t, 
 
 It may be asked whether the Greek writers make any mention of 
 the strange idiom which was spoken along the southern parts of Asia 
 Minor? — Two passages have occurred, one in Arrian, the other in 
 Eustathius, (who borrowed his remark from some more antient 
 author,) in which reference is made to the language of the people of 
 Side, in Pamphylia, and to that of the inhabitants of Soli, in Cilicia. 
 
 « The citizens of Side," says Arrian* " report of themselves, that 
 when the first colonists came from Cume into this part of Asia, and 
 settled there, they straightway forgot the Greek tongue, and uttered a 
 strange language, not that of the neighbouring barbarians, but a pe- 
 culiar and new idiom." 
 
 " They say f that Soloecism took its rise in this way : some people 
 of Attica settled at Soli, and vitiated the pronunciation of the oenuine 
 Attic tongue ; and became uncivilised from their dwellino- there." 
 
 Whether we accept or not of the whole of these statements, we see 
 plainly that they contain allusions to the language in use amoncr the 
 people of this part of Asia Minor, and which, as might be expected, 
 impaired the purity of the pronunciation of the Greeks, who estab- 
 lished themselves among them. 
 
 * Ala TTiV Twv ^ug^igcuv iraqiiKTi^iv kXvjj.iiva.VTO Tr,; SiaXe'xTou to jrargiov, rd jttsTga, rouj yoo- 
 VO05. Pliotius Lex. MS. See Gaisford's Hephajs. 254. 
 f Sal mas. de Hell. c. 7- 
 I Ex. Alex. 1. i. p. 26. edit. Stcpli. 1575. avrlxa rijv jw-sv 'EKKaix yXcuaa-ctv s^sKaSovTo, 
 
 Ii(3u5 Is l3agj3ctgov <pa)vrjv "e<ruv, oiids tUv ■ngocy^uigiov ^ctg^igxv, aAAa idiav (rifuiv, outtio ■!Tgo!T$sv 
 oxxrav t^v ^u)vr;V. 
 
 § Eust. in Diony. Per. v. 875. oic avlgcuv ■jtots AttixoJv djx>;o-avTcoy Ixfi, xai Trjv svysvK 
 TaeaxoTTEVTOJV Attix:^v yAciJTTav xai i^uygoixKjllsvTwv lia. Tov iv SoAoif otxtcfjiov.
 
 534 
 
 INSCRIPTIONS, 
 
 COPIED IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF ASIA MINOR, GREECE, AND EGYPT, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY THE EDITOR. 
 
 I. 
 
 ATTOKP ATOPIK AI2 AP10EOTA API ANOYTmQEO YTPAIANOT 1 
 
 nAP0IKOTYmNil0EOTNEPOTAErrONI2TITX2AIAmAAPIANi2 
 
 ANTiiNElNfl2EBASTi2ET::EBEIAPXIEPEIMEri2TflAHMAPXIKH5 
 
 EHOY2IA5TOITnATI2TOAnATPinATPIAOSKAI0EOI2 
 
 2EBA2TOl2KAITO12nATP12OI20EOIi;KAlTHrAYKTTATH 5 
 
 nATPIAITHnATAPEQNnOAEITHMHTPOnOAEITOT 
 
 ATKmNE0XOT:iOTEIAIAKoOYEIAIOTTITIANOT0TrATHP 
 
 nPOKAAnATAPlSANE0HKEN 
 KAIKA©IEPi22ENT0TEnP02KHNI0N0KATE2KETA2EN 
 EK0EMEAmNOnATHPATTHiKoOTEIAIO:-TITIANO2 10 
 
 KAlTONENATTOKO^MONKAITAnEPIATTOKAITHNTIiN 
 ANAPIANTX2NKAIArAiM\IATflNANA2TA:iIN 
 KAITHNTOYAOFEIOTKATASKETHNKAI 
 nAAKI22lNAEnOIH^ENATTHTOAEENAEKATON 
 
 TOTAETTEPOTAlAZi2MATO2BA0PONKAlTABHAA 15 
 
 TOT0EATPOTKATA2KETA20ENTATnOTETOY 
 
 nATP02ATTH:iKAITnATTH2 
 nPOANETE0HKAinAPEAO0HKATATATnOTIi::iKPATI5TH2 
 BOTAHSE^H^ISMENA 
 
 Copied at Patara by JNIr. Cockerell, by Captain Beaufort, and the 
 ^iission of the Dilettanti Society. 
 
 L. 1, 2, 3. The same enumeration of the titles of Antoninus, with 
 the exception of Pius, is given in one of the Farnesian marbles. The 
 tenth year of his tribunitian power is here mentioned, consequently 
 we have the date of this inscription j the tenth year of his reign. See 
 Falcon. Ins. Athl. p. 6. The remaining part may be thus translated :
 
 GREEK INSCEIPTIONS. ^.^- 
 
 [To Antoninus Pius] Consul the fourth time, Father of his country ; 
 to the Dii Augusti ; and to the Dii Penates ; and to her beloved 
 country the city of Patara, the (first) mother city of the Lycian 
 nations ; Velia Procula of Patara, the daughter of Quintus Velius Ti- 
 tianus, has dedicated and consecrated both the Proscenium, which her 
 father, Q. V. Titianus, raised from the foundation ; and the ornaments 
 upon it, and the things belonging to it, and the erection of the statues 
 of men and of gods, and the building of the Logeion, and the incrus- 
 tation of it (with marble) ; which things were done by herself: but 
 the eleventh step of the second Pr^ecinctio, and the curtains of the 
 theatre, raised both by her father and herself, had been already dedi- 
 cated and delivered over, according to the decree of the most autnist 
 senate." 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L, 5. riAT. ©. " QsDvg TTscTfuouc, intellige, Deos Penates, qui passim 
 cum Diis Patriis junguntur. " Dii Patrii ac Penates." Cic. pro Sulla. 
 See Perizon. on ^Elian. 1. p. 264. 
 
 L. 6. MHTP. We have in this, and in other inscriptions of Asia 
 Minor, the word iMetropolis used not in the original sense of a city, 
 whence colonies were derived, but in that of a city of consequence, in 
 a province. In the same district there were metropoles of various 
 ranks ; hence we read Up'Jrri Mr-^oTToXi^. * The Asiatic Greeks seem 
 to have borrowed the expression from their neighbours, the Syrians. 
 " Thou seekest to destroy a city and a mother in Israel f," where the 
 Targum of Jonathan, explaining the verse, says : " a city strong, 
 great, and a mother in Israel." On a coin of Laodicea are the words 
 in Greek, " of Antiochus, King ;" and in Phcenician, " of the 
 mother Laodicea." Towns:]:, dependent on mother cities, were called 
 " Daughters." 
 
 Great disputes often arose between different cities of Proconsular 
 Asia, respecting this title ; some assumed the name of " iMetropolis 
 
 * Van Dale, Diss. iii. 239. f Sam. 2. xx. I'J. 
 
 J Acad, des Ins. Barthelcmy, 30. 415.
 
 ^2G GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. • 
 
 of Asia," but a rescript of the Emperor Antoninus Pius decreed that 
 die great cities should be considered metropoles separately of their 
 own nation, not of the provinces. * Our inscription uses this expres- 
 sion : E0NOTL MHTPOn. 
 
 L. 7. OTEA. The name Velius occurs in Reinesius Ins. p. 238. 
 and Titianus in an inscription at Ephesus. Chishull. An. As. App. 8. 
 
 L. 8. ITpoxXa, Procula, not Procla. ITpcKjAoj is a corrupted form, f 
 
 L. 8, 9. AvoiTtSfjo-i Kccl x.ci9iBf.oi TYi (TwoSu, " lio dodicatcs and conse- 
 crates to the Company." See Chishull, An. As. p. 141., and again, 
 TO ArraXeTov — o kx] (^uv KKdiSfuzei To7g ArrxXtcrTxig ccvix,TiSyj(ri. 
 
 L. 11. 'ETria-ziuda-oia-ot ko.) t%v 9iov ku) t« 7r£p» aurijV. Chandler, In. 
 
 Ant. p. 55. 
 
 L. 12. ANAPIAI, properly a statue of a man, as in this place; yet 
 in good authors it occurs also, as Qiov uyaX^x. Dorville, JNlis. Obs. 
 vol. vii. 26. 
 
 L. 13. AOrEI. The Roman pulpitum was wider than the Greek 
 Logeion. " In Xoyiiu loquebantur histriones soli apud Grascos ; at in 
 pulpito Romano musici, saltantes, et histriones sua artificia preesta- 
 bant." X 
 
 L. 14. riAAK. " Incrustationem." The base materials, says 
 Gibbon, speaking of the church of S. Sophia, were concealed by a 
 crust of marble. " Hujusmodi marmoreas crustas 77A«;ca,' §vocabant." 
 A remark of Dorville, relating to the theatre || at Tauromenium, will 
 explain the nature of this TrAaxwo-*?. " Nudi hodie parietes olim tabu- 
 latis pictis vel crustis marmoreis fuerunt vestiti ;" and we learn from 
 Barthelemy the mode by which these marble ornaments were fastened. 
 " En continuant de travailler a la coupole du Pantheon, on a detache 
 les marbres qui couvroient les murs de cette espece d'Attique. lis 
 etoient attaches par des crampons de bronze." H 
 
 L. 14. " The eleventh step of the second Prsecinctio," points out 
 
 • Belley ad Mar. Cjzic. Cavlus Rec. t. ii. 214. 
 
 f Gataker, Adv. Mis. c.34. p. 785. 
 
 X Dorville, Sic. 260. § Vales, ad Euscb. 205. 
 
 B Sic. 263. k Oeuv. div. Part 2.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 537 
 
 a different meaning from that usually given to the word AIAZHMA. 
 The theatre of JNIarcellus had three Stx^uuxru ; there were two at 
 Pola ; the theatre of Pompey, and that at Saguntum *, had the 
 same number; at Ferentum there was but one. f 
 
 L. 16. BHAA. PuuxI'o-t] to 'Iittiov ByjXov ovoy-dt^ovin. X It was a law that 
 tlie spectators, both at the games of the Circus and at other theatrical 
 exhibitions, should sit with their heads uncovered, yv[A.)/^ y.t(^a.Xv, as we 
 learn from a passage in Chrysostom and Basil §, who describe the 
 spectatoi-s sitting until mid-day, exposed to rain and heat. At Rome 
 also, in the words of Ammianus, the spectators are said, Sole fatis- 
 cere, vel pluviis ; expressions, according to Valesius, not easily 
 explained; as Ammianus himself mentions the Vela, the curtains, 
 which might keep off the heat of the sun. The same protection is 
 described by Chrysostom : " II y a sur les theatres des voiles tendus." 
 See the translation, by jNIontfaucon. Ac. des Ins. 13. 481. 
 
 The mode of fixing the curtains or canopy is described by Em. 
 Marti, in his account of the theatre of Saguntum. Epis. 1. iv. 
 
 L. 18. The full form is nAPEAOGH TOIS ©EOIE, which occurs in 
 other inscriptions. || 
 
 II. 
 
 - - APAKAAONKAIA 
 rAQOXrnAPXOXTAEK 
 nPOrONiiNAPETH2KA[ 
 ETNOTA2ENEKENTHNAEE - - 
 EIKONAAAnAXHNArrO - 
 EnEAEHATOEKTOTIA - 
 0TE120AIASAI.H 
 
 At Phineka, on the coast of Lycia. • Copied by Mr. Cockerell. 
 
 * Em. Marti, Epis. 1. iv. f Monlf. An. Ex. vol. iii. % P'"'- v- Rom. 
 
 § Quoted by Valesius, in Amm. Marc. 30. || Mur. Anec. Or. 7. 
 
 f A copy of Mr. Cockercll's inscriptions was lent to M. Akerblad, at Rome, who pro- 
 posed corrections and suppletions of some parts of them. His conjectures are inserted 
 wherever they occur. L.I.ANAPA. L.4. THNAEEI2. L. .5. ATT02. Ak, 
 
 VOL. 11. 3 Z
 
 538 GREEK IKSCIUPTIONS. * 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 4. A parallel form occurs in an inscription in Van Dale, p. 366. 
 
 TO oe 6*f TO KyccAfji,c!C ao!.7roivrii/,cx, 7roi'i^(rcx.[/,evoii ek tuv ionav. 
 
 L. 5, 6, 7. Perhaps «utoV v-rrs^e^aTo Ik tou ISiov e^oSnx(rcci, " he under- 
 took to lay out, at his own cost, the expence necessary for the statue 
 or figure." Sometimes a-viSi^xTo occurs, as in Chandler, In. An. p. 9. 
 
 Tijc ht eig TOiVTcc Sa,7rclv7}V s(TO^ivYjv sk. tuv iOiuv oivsoe^ocyTO TTotr^creiv. 'E^ooog is 
 
 frequently used in the sense of " expenditure." See the illustration 
 of the Tauromenian inscription in Dorville, Sic. pp. 542. 647. ; and 
 in that found at Alicata we read e^oStoi^ai (as Smu^u for Sikko-u) " ex- 
 pendere," p. 519. In Gruter. p. cccc. 1. E^o^Mo-ai eg tx 7t^Qyiy^ot.[i- 
 f/Ava, 00-01/ y.x %p£ja r^. This verb, according to JNIaffei, is found in no 
 writer prior to the time of the Septuagint. 
 
 'Eio-oSioi. is explained in Hesychius by dvolxu^a, but the general sense 
 of h<j-o2ta.t^u is directly the reverse ; it means, " to collect money to- 
 gether ;" and answers to the Latin " Redigo."* In the Testanientum 
 Epictetce, Mus. Veron. xxv. y^scipsTu Sb xx\ tov Ig-ooov kccI b^oSov, " redi- 
 tum et impensam." 
 
 III. 
 
 TOMNHMETONKATE::KETASEN2TNTi2TnO - - Plli t 
 
 ATPEnArA©022EArETH2 
 
 nAM*TAIA2EATTi2KAirTNAIKI 
 
 ATTOTATPEnirOMITHKAIETTT 
 
 XIANHKTAN - - lAIKAIGTEATHPA 
 
 EIAFAQil 
 
 At Patara, in Lycia ; copied by Mr. Cockerell. 
 
 •REMARKS. 
 L. 5. KTANITIAJ. " For his wife Aurelia Epigone, who is also 
 called Eutychiane, a native of Cyane," a town in Lycia. Epigonus is 
 a Lycian name ; Epigone occurs in Reinesius, Ins. p. 611. 
 
 * Valck. Theoc. 340. 
 
 t L. I. TnOSOPm. L.2. SEAPEITHS. L. 6, EnAPAGIi. Akerblad.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTION55. 539 
 
 L. 6. The name 'ETraya^oj, 'E7rxyx9m, and feminine '£7raya6«, are 
 found in Greek and Latin inscriptions. In the penultimate hne, the 
 context would lead us to expect GTrATPI. The last word, if not a 
 name, must be EFIArAeni. " Auspicato." See Dorville, Charit. 
 ]ib.i. 172. 
 
 IV. 
 
 1 AnANTAnPASI2ETTTXi220EO:iAErEI * 
 
 BOH0ONEHl2METATTXH2TO\nT0EOX 
 
 rHSOlTEAEIONKAPnONAnOAnSEinONilN 
 
 ATNAMI2AKAIPO2ENNOMOI2INA20ENH2 
 5 EPASAIKAmNErrAMflNIAEINSnOPAN 
 
 ZA.\HXMEri5THX*ETrEMHTlKAlBABHS 
 
 HAI02OPASEA AMn POSOSTAnANTAOPA 
 
 0EOT2API2rOT2TH2OAOTTATTH:;-EXEi:i 
 
 IAP£iTE2EIiIXnAHXAnAXTI2XEPIE2H 
 10 KTMASIMAXE20AIXAAEnONANAMEIN<WAE 
 
 AAIO2AIEA0I2XnANTA2HMAINEIKAAfi2 
 
 MOX0EINANANKHMETAPOAHAE5TAIKAAH 
 
 NEIKH*OPOXAi2PHMATONXPH2MONTE 
 
 5HPI2NAnOKAAA12NKAPnOXOTKE2TAIAAP 
 1.5 OTKE2TIMI2nEIPANTA0EPl2AIKAPniMA 
 
 nOAAOT2AmNAEAIANT2A2AH^I'H2TE*02 
 
 PAONAIAHl2ETIBPAXrNMEIXA2XION02 
 
 rA<tn20*0IB02ENNEnEIMEIN0N*IAE 
 
 Ti2NNTNnAPOT2I2N2TN<I'OPIiNEHl2 - SIN 
 20 TnOSXESINTOIPArMArEXNAIANEXEI 
 
 *ATAI22TinPAHA2METAXPONONEN - *H0OI2 
 
 XPYEOTNnOIH2El2XPH2MONEniTTXI2N<t'IAE 
 
 4'H*ONAIKAIANTHNAEnAPA0EaNEXEI2 
 
 I2MHNOni2PANIILVABH20TXPn2IMON 
 
 Part of an inscription in Senarian Iambics, copied by Mr. Cock- 
 erell at Phineka, on the coast of Lycia. They contain the response 
 of an oracle. The £ is in the form E, throughout, in the oriorinal. 
 
 * L. 2. nXGION. L.6. MHTI KAI BAABH2. L. 9. AnANTI2NEniE2lI. L. iO. 
 ANAMEIX'AI. L. 12. METABOAH. L. 16. Ari2NA2. L. 17. XPONON. L. 18. 2A- 
 *£22. L. 19. EHE12 AT2IN. L. 20. TOnPAEMA. L. 24. EIAABH2. Akerblad. 
 
 3z 2
 
 540 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 2. M. Akerblad alters the last word to DTGION. There is, how- 
 ever, no necessity for the correction. Spanheim gives two represent- 
 ations of coins, bearing the legend of nxeEOX; and the figure of 
 Apollo. H. A. V. 70. " The Parian Chronicle, as Porson observes, 
 has KccXXeou, for which Palmer wished to substitute Kaxxlcv. Dr. 
 Taylor refutes him from the marmor Sandvicense." — I will add a 
 remark of Valesius : " Observavi Grsecos fere A^o-ei/oiV^jv dicere pro 
 Arsinoite nomo, sen Prtefectura. Sic enim apud Eusebium scribitur 
 etiam in optimis exemplaribus ; et apud Palladium et apud Ptole- 
 
 maeum." * 
 
 L. 8. APnrOTS. Tig 9iuv lariv u^uyoq ; Eur. Hec. 
 L. 12. Mox^^'iv dvciyy,;;. Eurip. ^Eoli, fr. 
 
 L. 15. MH. — ©EPilAI. Biov eEPIZEIN ^Vre KAPOIMON (ttccx^v. 
 Eur. in Hyps. Kk^ttov Ayjovg 0EPIEAS0AI. Aristoph. Plut. 515. 
 
 Many parts of these verses are well illustrated in the following re- 
 marks, which wei*e communicated to me by Mr. Blomfield. 
 
 L. 5. ErrAMriN is for EK rAMXlN. 
 
 L. 7. 'O x^o'voj Of T« TTcc'jQ' of.S.. Eurip. Melan. fr. 25. 
 
 L. 9. " There are great labours, but you will overcome them all." 
 nEPIESH instead of EHIEIH. nx-^v, " but," as in Matth. xviii. 7. 
 xxvi. 39. Philipp. iv. 14. It occurs also in the sense of o/*wf, in 
 Xenoph. Anab. p. 85. ed. Hutch. ; and in Herodot. vi. 31. Dion. 
 Halic. de Corap. p. 4. Sophocl. Trach. 41. Oed. Col. 1644. 
 
 L. 10. ANAMEINON, <I)IAE. Seel. 18. 
 
 L. 11. AOrOL for AAIOZ. 
 
 L. 12. Mox^^'t'v dvoiyy-x. Eurip. Telcphus, fr. 18. 
 
 L. 13. NiKijcpopoi' Su^ov. Eur. Iph, A. 1557. At the end of the line 
 
 read, tov xf.ricr[xov T tx,siv. 
 L. 14. 'Oldc ta-Txt Xcil3s'.'v, 
 L. 17. 'P»ov ^e hocy vj li ^puiroV 'iSuKS. Tlieoc. X. ult. 
 
 * Vales, ad Soc. E.H. 1.6. 1 4 4.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 541 
 
 L. 21. ENITHeEOir. It should helvi^sigdfoijg, « deos inculpabis." 
 L. 22. " But if you succeed, you will call the oracle a golden one." 
 Xfu<rouv TTOi'lia-ug. Qu. ;:^puToy ? Ananias or Hipponax, apud Athen. 
 
 XIV. p. 625. X^A}(rcv X'e-y£i nJ^E^^or, ug ou^ev tocXXcc. Arist. Plut. 268. 
 
 u xF'^°'' etyyiiXag sttuv. Lucretius, " depascimur aurea dicta." 
 
 L. 23. r^pv TTc^^x 6c uv. Eur. And. 1242. 
 
 L. 24. XIMHN OnnPAN MH AABHE- OT XPHSIMON. « Do not 
 pluck unripe fruit ; it will do you no good." 
 
 1 TEP - AIOnAATilNOSnATAPEI 
 
 K ATH AN01 OnOAE ITETS AME 
 
 NfiAEKAENTAlSKATAATKlAN 
 
 nOAE2inA:^A)STHNO2TO0H 
 5 KHNJASIiNANTirONOT 
 
 nATAPETSAAAOAEMIlEHES 
 
 Ti2TE0H\AlEAXAETi:iTlNA0H 
 
 0*EIAETI2IEPA2AnOAAi2NI 
 
 APAXMAS 
 10 THSnPASEnSKAinPOSANrE 
 
 AIA50T2H2nANTlTI2B0TAO 
 
 MENi2EniTi2HMl2EI 
 
 At Patara. * 
 
 " Jason of Patara, son of Antigonus, (raised) the sepulchre for 
 
 Ter son of Plato, who was a citizen of Patara, and of Xanthus, 
 
 who was Decurio for the tenth time in the cities of Lycia. Let it 
 be allowed to no other person to be placed in it. If any one bury 
 
 another there, let him pay drachmae, sacred to Apollo. The 
 
 levying of this fine, and the laying of the information, belong to any 
 one who pleases, for half the sum." 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 1 and 2. " Patara and Xanthus, two of the greatest cities in 
 Lycia." Strabo, 1. 14. 
 
 L. 2. nOAEIT AEKA. " 'O; TroXiTsuo'^uei/o/, qui Patriae erant, quod 
 Romfe Senatores." Reinesius, Ins. 132. They were so called, says 
 
 * From Mr. Cockerell. L. 1. TEPHAin, L. 3. AEKA. Akcrblad.
 
 542 
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 Emmanuel Marti, quod essent de Curia, quee erat instar * Senatus. 
 V^ilesius t refers to passages in Gregory Naz., Artemidorus, Libanius, 
 Athanasius, where -^oXtTevofzevoi and -TroXiTsuTcii are used in the sense of 
 Decuriones. The Latin versions have sometimes mistaken the mean- 
 ing. Reinesius gives an inscription where a person is mentioned as 
 Decurio the third time, '' D. III." p. 570. From this expression we 
 may be able to explain part of another inscription, No. VIII., in this 
 collection, where mention is made of a person, 
 
 AEKAni 
 
 TETSANTA 
 
 read AEKAnOAI 
 
 TETSANTA 
 
 L. 10. The word 7r^a|<? relates to those " qui mulctatitias pecunias 
 
 exigebant." Budoeus. " npa^i?, -Trf^K-rofs; voces fori Attici." X ^x-^i- 
 
 Kxa-ouTiv y.a\ ex.7rf,a,^oura; " they shall bring an action, and demand the 
 
 money." § 
 
 L. 10. n^ocrayysXevg, " an informer, or spy." n^orayyeXta, " de- 
 latio." Glossar. 'O MapjceAXof vrfioa-i^yyeiXs t'/i BovXv tov ocvSouttov, " he 
 
 charged the man before the Senate." Plut. in v. JMarc. 
 
 L. 11. 'Tve^hvog ecTTu nANTI TX2 BOTAOMENXl y^ci(ps<rdcii. Diog. 
 I.aer. vol. ii. p. 31. 
 
 VI. 
 
 T0NA0nAAMl2lP0*YAAH 
 AMMf2NIOSEISATOB12MON 
 ATTOSETIZf2A2TOIATKT 
 $ENrO:£OPf2N 
 HPIONO<I>PArENOITOTON£i 
 MAIA2KATTEK0TPE 
 
 rPMEienENnoisxoPON 
 
 EnEYiEBEHN 
 
 At Patara. 11 
 
 * Epist. p. 100. t In Amm. Marc. p. 3:20., also in Eus. p. 198. 
 
 :J: Span, in Callim. H. Jov. 70. 
 
 § Cliishuil, A. A. App. p. 9. Sec also Blomfield, Gloss, to the Persae. v. 482. 
 
 II From Mr. Cockerell. L. 3. TATKT. L. 5. EONO. L. 7. EPMEIH. Akerblad.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 543 
 
 Some correction is wanting in the first line of these verses. " Am- 
 nionius, while he was alive, raised this altar, or sacred building, that 
 it might become a sepulchral monument for his son. Mercury, il- 
 lustrious offspring of Maia, convey him, I pray, to the land of the 
 pious." 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 6, 7. 'E^fir,g 6 Tro/^TToj. (Ed. Col. 1618. 
 
 L. 7. nENnOIi:. The substitution of N for M is not unfrequent in 
 inscriptions in Asia Minor ; but it is also found on some antient 
 monuments of Greece ; as on the Elean tablet ; in the Oxford marbles, 
 No. XXL, AflAEKlONcDAAON, OP0ONOAAON ; and OAYNniAPATOi: 
 is given in an inscription copied by Spon, in which occurs AM^IA- 
 NAXE. The name of the town Olympus, in Lycia, appears on 
 marbles examined by iNIr. Cockerell and Captain Beaufort, OATNIIOS. 
 Hence we may explain the cause of a corrupt reading in Cicero. In 
 the third Verrine oration, Servilius is said, " Olynthum urbem hos- 
 tium cepisse." It was at first probably written OLYNPUM ; this was 
 altered into OLYNTHUM ; but there is no city of the name of 
 Olynthus in Lycia. It should be Olynpum. 
 
 L. 7. XHPON. Xupov 7re[/,^xv Ig Ixxrij^iiuv. See the Epigram of Car- 
 phylides, quoted in the Museum Criticum, vol. i. p. 227., and Anthol, 
 
 Palat. 2. App. p. 877. t^\ S' ky ett' ivref^euv %&'^oi'. 
 
 VII. 
 
 2i2 HKHnAATIiNIA0:iTH2KAIAPiA2E0SMA ET - BOT 
 
 HNANE0ETOHKATE2iKETAiAMENHKAlTOHPf2ONHMHTHPATT - - 
 EPniAA5HHKAlSAPnHAONl2ATSANAPOTOTTE0H5ETAIAEENTAT 
 TIITH:iOMATO0HKHAAAOSOTAE12nOEN0A*AiTnET0TNO:i 
 EiTAIA:£EBEJAKATAX0OMOi:i0EOl2KAITnOKEi:;ETAITOl5AIATE 
 
 TAEMENOISK - - Hi20ENAnEPAEITi2NTilAHMI2XM 
 
 At Patara. * 
 
 • From Mr. Cockerell. L. 1. 2I2MATO0HKH. lb. MAPKIOTETrPIBOT. L. 6. 
 KAIEHI10EN. Akerblad.
 
 544 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 " The tomb of Platonis, called also Arsasis, wife of Marcius Eu- 
 gribus, which her mother Erpidase called also Sarpedonis, daughter of 
 Lysander, raised ; who likewise built the Heroum. No other person 
 shall be placed in this tomb. Whoever buries another in it, shall be 
 charged with the crime of impiety to the Dii Inferi, and shall be sub- 
 ject to the laws decreed against this crime, and shall moreover (pay) 
 to the people of Aperras thousand denarii. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 1. APSASEIMAPKIOTETrPIBOT occurs in another inscription 
 copied by Mr. Cockerell. 
 
 L. 4. YnET0. "Ea-Tua-otv vTrevSwoi da-ifletiy, " impietatis rei aguntor." 
 Chishull, An. As. 159. 
 
 L. 5. Qic) Kccrccx^onot, in Latin, Dii Manes, or Dii Inferi. The 
 chief of these was Pluto. 
 
 Tuque o sasvissime fratrum 
 Cui servire dati Manes. Statius. 
 
 L. 5. 'TTTOKsia-erxi tu (P'ktkui. Sepulc. Inscr. Anthol. Palat. vol. iii. 
 
 L. (>. Ka* i^u9iv. £. " praeterea. Gloss. In an inscription copied 
 by Spon, and found at Thyatira, we read, " that whoever puts any 
 other body in the tomb shall pay a fine," yivojxtvoq v7riv6uvog e^udiv rZ 
 
 Trig TUjW/Sw^u^/af vof^u. 
 
 L. 6. 'A-Tref^cti in Ptolemy, Apyrae in Pliny. 1. 5. The modern Phi- 
 neka, " teste Villanovano." See IIofFman's Lexicon. Captain Beau- 
 fort, in his Caramania, p. 34., points out the situation of the place. 
 
 VIIL 
 
 EPniAASHHKAlSAPnHAONiS 
 
 - TSANAPOTAOEPAEITIS - EP - 
 NT - AAPXIEPEIAENT12E0NIIAT 
 
 - ANAP0NAI2<l>T2EI05EI0T 
 AnEPAEITHNAnOAnOAAXlNI 
 AEANAPAEKTONnPilTETS 
 
 - HXEKnPOrOXnNAPTAN 
 TI2NKAIENTIiATKmNE0NEI 
 KAITIinATPIAinASASTASA
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 545 
 
 10 XASTEAESANTAKAIAEKAni 
 
 - ETSANTATELMriQENTAnO 
 
 - AKl2E*OI2ETEnOIH:iENIA 
 
 - PONAPISTONTENOMENON ' ' 
 
 - APTTPH0ENTAEninA2HTH 
 15 - OTBlOTKAAOKArAQIATON 
 
 EATTHSnPOnAnnONMNH 
 MH2XAPIN 
 
 At Patara. * 
 
 VERSION. 
 
 " Erpidase, who is also called Sarpedonis, of Apen'ae, daughter of 
 Lysander, who was priestess in her nation or province, honours her 
 
 grandfather Lysander, who was grandson of , a citizen of 
 
 Aperree, who came from Apollonia ; a man descended from those who 
 had the first rank in the state ; sprung from ancestors who had been 
 in high office ; a man who had in Lycia, and in his own country, 
 gone through all the degrees of magistracy ; who had been Decurio 
 for the tenth time ; wlio had been often honoured for the good he 
 had done ; an eminent physician ; to whom testimony had been borne 
 for ^ " . good and honourable conduct in life." 
 
 RExMARKS. 
 
 L. 4. Ka'«r«fOf <pu(rei. Eus. E. H. 1. iv. c. 12. Ton (puasi 'ArrciXcu. 
 Ox. ]Mar. Maitt. ix. 2. The word All, used in this sense, will be ex- 
 plained in the note to No. XVIII. 
 
 L. 6. nPllT. TipuTovg Tr,g TroXeug, " chief men of the city," in our 
 version of the Acts of the Apostles, c. xiii. In Apuleius we have 
 " Foeminas primates." Met. 2. 
 
 L. 7. APHAN. Honorati sunt, ol Iv ap^o^,' yeyevrifisvoi, ol APHANTES. 
 Vales, in Am. Marc. p. 15. 
 
 L. 10. The same expression is found in other inscriptions, TraVa? 
 a^^xg T6T£XijJcsTa. See Van. Dale. p. 243. One of these Lycian dig- 
 
 • From Mr. Cockerell. L. 2, 3. ATSAN. TErONTIA. L. 3. E0NEI. L. G. A2 
 and nPXlTETSANTHX. L. 7- APEAN. L. 9. APXA2. L. 11, 12. nOAAAKIS. 
 L. 13. TPON. L. H. MAP. Akerblad. 
 
 VOL. II. 4 A
 
 546 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 nities is mentioned by Philostratus. " In Heraclide Lycio scribit 
 Philostratus ejus niajores fuisse sacerdotes Lyciae, seu Lyciarchas." 
 Vales. Emend, p. 93. The letters AEKAni have been explained in 
 the remarks on No. V. 
 
 IX. 
 
 1 TOMNHMEIONEnA*POAEITOT 
 
 AOTAOYAEONT02MOTSAIOTTOTKAI 
 lAEONOSMTFEOSKAIAnEPAEITOT 
 OE12NH2ATOAIATi2NENMTPOl2APXEmN 
 5 nAPAT12N2TNAPXl2EOA12T12KAI 
 
 AAEHANAPi2MTPEIElSOKHAET©H2ETAI 
 KAIHrTNHATT0T<I>APH2lA 
 KAIEYTTXIAKAIOlSANATTOSZflN 
 EniTPE^HEANAETlSETEPOS 
 10 ENKHAET2HTINA04>IAE 
 
 THKTANEIXriNI - PUT - - 
 THSnPOSANFEAIASOTSNE 
 nANTITi2BOTAOMENi2EniTI2 
 TPIT12 - 
 
 At Patara. * The proper names in 1. 2, 3. 5. require correction. 
 
 VERSION. 
 
 " The monument of Epaphroditus, son of Leo Musasus, who is 
 
 also called , a citizen of Myra, and of Aperras ; which tomb he 
 
 purchased in the Register office at Myrse, from the colleagues of , 
 
 who is also called Alexander (rw y.a.i A.) a townsman of Myra j in 
 which sepulchre shall be entombed both his wife Pharesia, and Eu- 
 tychia, and those to whom he shall in his life-time give leave. If 
 any other person shall place a body in it, let him pay to the Senate 
 of Cyane a sum of money. Any one who pleases may lay the in- 
 formation, for a third of the fine." 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 4. 'O iu>vy\(yocTQ oicc Tcav kgyiiuv. Aid, " In." Stct TTOf^xTo; ixnv, " In 
 
 ore habere." H. Steph. in v. Aid. A.^yiTa, the place, where, ol Srijxoa-loi 
 
 * From Mr.Cockerell. L. 6. X2forO. L. 10. TINA. L. 11. FEPOTSIA. L. 12. 
 0Y2H2. Akeiblad.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 547 
 
 Xii^rai cc'^oKsivTcti, Suidas. Perhaps in the following inscription, 
 edited by Hammer, APXXiN should be altered to APXEIflN. 
 
 KEPAMET5i2NH2AMHN 
 AIATllNAPXDNTONnTP 
 nSKON. Anthol. Palat. nott. 52. t. iii. p. 1. 
 
 L. 5. n«pa Tuv (Tuv. Ett* Koa-f^uv ruv (tvv 'EviTrcivn, " under the Cosmi, 
 who were colleagues of Henipas." Chishull, An. Asiat. p. 129. So 
 in the Testamentum Epicteta?, l(po^u)v ruiv a-vv 'l/^e^Tu, " sotto gli Efori 
 Imerto e Colleghi." j\Ius. Veron. 129. 
 
 L. 6. Perhaps in his alteration, Akerblad intended to suggest EN XI, 
 but EIE O is an usual form. E»j ^v kvjSbvo-xi {(td^ov). Chishull, A. A. 
 App. 9. 
 
 L. 7. Probably H is omitted at the end of this line. " Pharesia, 
 who is called Eutychia." 
 
 L. 10. Either o(puK'iTu) or oipsiXijirei ; both forms occur. 
 
 L. 11. Cyane, a city in Lycia: in Ptolemy, Kvuva. 
 
 L. 14. An inscription copied by INIr. C. ; after stating the sum to 
 be paid by any who places another body in the tomb, adds, XIN O 
 EAENHA2: AHNYETE TO T *, « of which, he who convicts him shall 
 receive a third." AHNTETE is written for AHMTETAI, the N, as in 
 other instances, being substituted for M. A'ifi^ofiut is an Alexan- 
 drian form. See Sturzius de Dial. Maced. 
 
 X. 
 
 AAEKOYAAEI2CKONi2NAKO - 
 AiVEnCTONnAnnONATTHCA 
 Ne 5THCENMNHMHCXAPIN 
 
 * Chishull, An. As. 131. AajSsToo to rgiVov li-egoe t5j ilxof lixa^ai/,tvQif " let him who 
 brings the action take a third part." 
 
 4 A 2
 
 548 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 XI. 
 
 KOTASKAIOBPANTOTEIST 
 
 IOIEniOTA2EIi:£EniOT 
 
 ASINKOTOTTONnATEFA 
 
 ETSEBEIA2ENEKENTH2 
 
 EI2EATT0N 
 
 XII. 
 
 OPESTHNMIAOTANESTH 
 2ENKIAAMOTA2I20BPAOT 
 rEPE122TON0EIONATTOT 
 MNHMH2XAPIN 
 
 XIII. 
 
 AANMIAOTQTrATEFAA 
 NE2TH2ENKIAAM0TA 
 2l20BPAOTrEPEi22THN 
 0EIANATTOTMNHMH2 
 XAPIN 
 
 No. X. XL XII. XIII. from Alaiah *, the antient Coracesium, in 
 Cilicia Aspera. See Beaufort's Caramania. 
 
 There is nothing remarkable in these four inscriptions but the 
 names, respecting which there seems to be no doubt in the copies 
 made by Mr. Cockerell. The letters are all perfect, and the names 
 occur more than once. In the first, Dae, daughter of Cualis, erects 
 the statue of her grandfather, Conon f, son of Cualis ; in the second, 
 Cuas and Obranguis, sons of Epiuasis, raise the statue of their father, 
 Epiuasis, son of Cuas j in the third, Cidamuasis, son of Obraugeris, 
 raises the statue of his uncle, Orestes, son of Midas ; and the same 
 
 * From Mr. Cockerell. 
 
 f Conon appears to have been a common name in Isauria ; it occurs in the following 
 inscription; and the Bishop of Apamia, mentioned by Evagrius, was so called (H. E. 1.3. 
 c. 35.); the appellation was also preserved in the country until the eighth century ; it was 
 the original name of the Iconoclast Emperor Leo.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 549 
 
 Cidamuasis, in the fourth, commemorates his aunt Las, the daughter 
 of Midas. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 1 0AHM02ETEIMH2EN 
 
 RONHXANIXE NEONNEANIAN 
 AEAQOXnPOrOXnNnANAPETilN 
 KAIAEKAnPiiTnxnATPOSAHM 
 5 10TPnE2AXT022TX*EP0XTX22 
 
 THnOAEIKAinAPA<l>TAAHANT02 
 ni:iTI22KA12EIT12NHSAXT02 
 APETH2ENEKEXKAIETX0IA2 
 THSEi:iATTOXTONAEANAPIA 
 10 NTOXE5THSEXAXA2AnAT0T 
 
 PIOTHMHTHPATTOT 
 
 Copied by Captain Beaufort and Mr. Cockerell, at Hamaxia, on the 
 coast of Cilicia. * 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 2. NINE. According to Captain Beaufort's transcript, there is a 
 mark in this word after E, as also in Mr. Cockerell's copy ; perhaps it 
 is the letter I. The termination of some of the proper names in this 
 part of Asia is very singular. In one inscription we have o Syj;zoi; sTeti/.rja-Bv 
 NINEIN KOITOITOT NINEI avS^x, v.. t. >. ; in a second, copied by 
 Captain B., o ^i^f^coc sTely.r,a£v MOYON f NINEnOS ANAPA »y»9ov ; and 
 although the letters EFI are marked as doubtful in the copy he com- 
 municated to me, we have the same word in another which was 
 transcribed by himself and Mr. Cockerell, NINEnOS. j: In a third, 
 we read, yuvaiKo. Komvog J*j Tou NINEI §, ocvS^c^, (wife of Conon, a grand- 
 son of Ninei, a man, &c.) ; in a fourth, eTBif/,ri(re NINEIN KONHNOS. 
 In one, copied by Mr. CockereU, we read, AnATOTPII (or AOA- 
 
 • L. 3. APAGON. L. 5. AHMIOYPFHSAXTOS. L. 9, 10. AXAPIANTAANE2. 
 Akerblad. 
 
 f Pamphylia, ante Mopsopia appellata. Pliii. 1. 5. 
 
 % As we have Mo'il/o^/, Moiio-rroc, as well as Mo^otto;, Mo^ottov, perhaps we should read 
 NINOnOS, from XIXO*. See Ox. Strabo, 1. 9. (;43. 
 
 § Probably an Asiatic name ; the husband and son of Semiramis were Ninus and Ninias.
 
 ^^Q GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 TOTPIOI) MAOEI ; and in another, ETHKHAI MAHEI, seen by him 
 and Captain B. ; and on one found at Sehnus, on the coast of Cilicia, 
 NANNEI lYNBIXl ATTOY. 
 
 L. 3. nANAPETXlN. ? Trai/apero? is only found in Suicer. Ecc. The- 
 saurus. 
 
 L. 4. AEKAnP. Mention is made in other inscriptions of those 
 who formed part of the body of Decuriones ; and were called, Quinque 
 Primi, Decern Primi. Noris, in his Cenotaph. Pis., Diss. 1. quotes 
 two passages from Cicero relating to them. 
 
 L. 5. The father of Conon was AHMIOTProz. This office, the 
 title of a chief magistrate, occurs in the inscription communicated by 
 Adler to Barthelemy. Consult also Hesychius on this word, and 
 Thucydides, 1. v. c. 47. 
 
 L. 7. lEIT. In the Heraclean tables mention is made of the Xtra- 
 ysoTcti ; and in an inscription found by Villoison, in Astypalasa, De- 
 moteles is praised, because SITON AIETEAEI nPOXlNOTMENOI 
 rai AAMXlI. Proleg. in Hom. 55. 
 
 XV. 
 
 OAHM02ETEIMH2ENNINEIN 
 KOITOSTOTNINEANAPAA 
 rA0ONAIXIEPASAMENONTI2N • 
 2EBA2Ti2NKAinOAAAnEPITHN 
 OAT IAAEKnPOrONi2NnE*IAO 
 
 TEIMHME. ENEKAKAI 
 
 EYN0IA2TH2EI2ATT0N 
 
 At Hamaxia ; copied by Mr. Cockerell and Captain Beaufort. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 3. APXIE. Herodes Atticus is called, in an inscription pub- 
 lished by Spon, APXIEPEYE TXIN lEBAITjQN, " Grand-pretre des 
 Empereurs." Ac. des Ins. 30. p. 17. lEBAITXlN has been sometimes 
 
 • APXIEPE; L. 5. nATPIAA. L. 6. MHMEN0NAPETH2. Akerblad.
 
 • GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 55I 
 
 improperly translated, as if it were the genitive of SEBAETA, Augus- 
 talia. 
 
 L. 5. EFCnPO. « More majorum." lb. nEc&lA. " Liberal, generous, 
 munificent." $iXoT«/*/«, proprie quidem notat ambitionem et studium 
 honorum ; sed quia ambitiosi magno studio res suas agunt plerum- 
 que, et simul crebra utuntur largitione, inde et utramque banc signi- 
 ficationem vocabulum illud accepit." Perizon. iElian. i. 194. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 AnATOYPISMAnEIKATES 
 KETASENTOHPiiEIONEATTO 
 KAITOlSEAYTOTilSTEEXEIN 
 ATTONMEPHATflElSEPXOME 
 NIlNEKAEHmNKAIE - T - - K - - TIOT 
 
 L. 1. Apaturius, perhaps ; as the name occurs in No. XIV. 
 
 L. 3. -QETEEX. This appropriation of part of a monument or se- 
 pulchre is mentioned in an inscription in MafFei. Mus. Ver. " T. 
 Claudius takes half for himself, his wife, his descendants, and freed- 
 men." 
 
 L. 4. EIIEP. Corresponding to the word " Intro," in Latin. " Ci- 
 neraria quinquaginta tria intrantibus parte laeva, quae sunt in monu- 
 mento." Philos. Trans. Abr. ix. 433. 
 
 XVII. 
 
 1 Ari2NO0ETOTNTO2AIABIOTATPHA - - 
 
 nAmNEINOTTOTHSlANOYKAIE 
 niTEAOYNTO50EMINnAM<I>TAIAKHN 
 TOYH2IANEIONEniBATHPION0EON 
 5 A0HNA2KAIA^O.^J\I2NO2EHIAmN 
 
 XPHMATHNENEIKHSANnAIAIiN 
 nAAHN2TNSTE<I>ANIi0ENTE2ATP 
 KONiiNIANOSNEOnTOAEMOS 
 KAIAYPHAIOSEPMinniANOSEPMin 
 10 nOSNEOSSIAHTAIAABONTES 
 
 A0AONTOTE0EMAKAI 
 TONANAPIANTASTNTH 
 BASEI
 
 552 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 1 Ari2XO0ETOTNTO2AIA 
 
 AY nAmXEIN 
 
 TH2IAN0T 
 
 KAIEniTEAOTNTOS0EMIN 
 5 nAM<I>TAIAKHXT0TH2-IA 
 
 NEIONEniBATHPIONQEilN 
 A©HNA2KAIAnOAAXiN02 
 EHIAIilNXPHMATIiN 
 ENEIKHSEXnAIAilN 
 10 nTEMKNATPHAIOS 
 
 APTEMi2NAl2AIONY2lOT 
 A2nENAIO2AABaNA0AON 
 TOTE0E.MAKA1TONANAPIANTA 
 2TNTHBA2EI 
 
 At Side, in Pamphylia. 
 
 REMARKS ON INS. XVII. 
 
 L. 1. Velleius Paterculus translates a^^o^Ta? Stu 0tou, " perpetuos 
 Archontes." As Aurelius PjEoninus was perpetual Agonotheta, we 
 must correct the following; remark of Van Dale. " lUud autem 
 Agonothetae munus asque ac Gjmnasiarchae non perpetuum, sive ad 
 vitam erat, sed semel, bisve, terve," &c. 
 
 L. 3. EniT. 0EMIN. ©sixi; is sometimes used for Sec-fiog. @ia-[/,ot 
 le^ol, " ritus sacri." Steph. in v. who quotes TtXh t« jcara Osa-f^ov Is^ov. 
 Dionys. Areop. The Pamphylian Qeun;, in this inscription, may illus- 
 trate the unexplained words, ©EMIAOS TO E, on a coin of Aspendus, 
 in Pamphylia. * 
 
 L. 4. EniB. This word requires some explanation ; perhaps the 
 following inquiry will help us to the true meaning. 
 
 The glossaries interpret the word by " Introitus ;" and EniBAlIZ 
 by " Incessus, Ingressus ;" in Julius Pollux, 'ETr^Gao-Za is defined -^ elg 
 
 • Mionnet. Dcs. des Metlailles, t. iii. p. -149.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 553 
 
 aXXor^iov oixov uvoL^y^o? EIEEAETSI£. 'Evi^ocTi^^iog lux'^i dicitur, qua Im- 
 peratori primum inaugurate apprecari solebant. Du Cange in v. who 
 cites Cedrenus. 
 
 Valesius translates tte^* l-rri(ixrri^Uv by " adventoria oratione * :" now, 
 " adventoria epistola" was a letter or message sent forward by a person 
 coming from a distance to his friend ; he expected his approach or 
 arrival to be welcomed by one in return, j^ 
 
 Synesius mentions the TrtK^x eTrif^xT^iot. with which he was greeted, 
 
 Captain Beaufort and Mr. Cockerell copied, in this part of Asia 
 Minor, an inscription in which EniBAIIS is found. " To the Em- 
 peror Caesar, Trajan, Hadrian, Augustus, father of his country, 
 
 OATMnm"2i2THPI 
 T0TK02M0T - - - - 
 THSEniBASEOS 
 
 Olympian, preserver of the world, on account of his arrival, (perhaps 
 
 r \ r. ■■ s 
 
 VTTSf T%g STT.) 
 
 Some of the Greek Fathers, in explaining the passage of St. John, 
 \(ry.yjvu(riv Iv ^[*Tv, consider the words as meaning a-avji'og ccvBXuf-sv Iv ■^f/.Tv, 
 Theodoret calls this assumption of the body by the Logos, tjjv tou 
 
 Aoyou STTt TO crufiat £7r</3ao"ii/. 
 
 But i7ri(3ac(ri;, from the explanation already given, [ha-sXeva-i?, In- 
 gressus,) corresponds to e7riSrif/,ia., " adventus ;" now these were re- 
 ligious festivals relating to the t-7rtSyii/.iui 6euv ; at certain times the 
 deities visited cities under their protection ; " Delum maternam invisit 
 Apollo ;" and the Argives celebrated the visit of Diana. (Vales, on 
 Eus. H. E. 1. ix. p. 166.) Tyre was said, rr rm ov^xviuv Seuv l-^iStifjila. 
 dvQuv X, adventu seu praesentia ; and the Roman coins give " adventus 
 August!," 17^1^7,1^1 ex.. We may conclude, therefore, the meaning of the 
 sentence to be, that Paeoninus celebrated, at his own expence, the 
 sacrifice in honour of the visit or manifestation of the gods, Apollo 
 and Minerva. 
 
 * Emend, p. 30. t Scaliger, Lee. Aus. 1. 2. 
 
 t Marsham, Canon. Cliron. p. 53. 
 VOL. II. 4 B
 
 554 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 On consulting INIr. Blomfield, I received from him the following 
 remarks relating to iiri^cca-ig : " When a magistrate goes to a 
 province, or takes upon him an office, he is said B7n(3divB,v.' See 
 Schleusner, Lex. in v. Hence sTrlficcartg answers nearly to our word 
 accession; and tx £7r<^aTij^;a will be the sacrifices offered at the festival 
 of the accession. So Synesius, quoted by Budaeus and Stephens, outu 
 7rty.^o7i Tifzug ij TroXig iTrif2ccT'^^ioig l^ivKTiv, speaking of the reception which 
 awaited him upon his election to his bishopric. This agrees with 
 the gloss which you adduce, 'Err. Introitus, and with Cedrenus ; see 
 Facciolati v. Introitus. Thus, in Captain Beaufort's inscription, ettj- 
 PoccTiug may allude either to a visit from the Emperor, as you say ; or 
 to the celebration of his accession. Perhaps it was TA THS Eni. 
 which will be equivalent to 67r<,GaT)f^o<a." 
 
 L. 11. Qs!/,oc. " Having received as a prize, the money and the 
 statue, with the base." In an inscription found at Ephesus (Ins. Ant. 
 Hess. Praef. App. xxxii.) we read of a person rx 9sf/.KToc. ro7g dycavia-Tong 
 du^-^a-ocvTu. The word occurs in another form in Spon, Anti. ]Mis. 367. 
 evUix h 6efA,tx.TiKovg ku] TaXuvTiocioijg dyuvxg. * " He was conqueror in 
 games where money was the prize, and the prize not less than a 
 talent." See Pearson's explanation of 6ef/.x. 0£|waT<)co* dyuveg and 
 cx^yvfTctt were opposed to a-TB(i:oiviTcx,i, in which garlands only, or crowns, 
 were given as the prize, eiy.cc was also a sum of money deposited 
 in a banker's hands, j" 
 
 L. 12. " The statue with the base." The bases were often of dif- 
 ferent materials from the statues on them. In the Mus. Ver. xxxix. 
 the statue of Jupiter is mentioned, crvv fSucrst x^yvf^sf, yv-Jjou [^ia-rv. JNIar- 
 moream basi eenea, also, in Rein. 1 44. 
 
 No. XVIII. 
 
 This inscription resembles, in great part, the preceding ; and it is 
 fortunate that they are preserved in a perfect state ; the incomplete 
 
 * TaXavT. was not understood before Pearson explained it, in l)is notes in Ignat. Epis. 
 ad Polyc. 
 
 f Salm. de Trap. Foen. [>63.
 
 Greek inscriptions. 
 
 .555 
 
 part of the second is easily supplied from the first. There seems to 
 be no variation in the copies made by Captain Beaufort and Mr. 
 Cockerell. 
 
 L. 10. nAlAHN nrrMHN. « In the boys' match at cuffs." 
 Bentley, Phal. p. 51. 
 
 L. 11. AP -AIL AXON. « Artemon, grandson of Dionysius." We 
 have already met with AIS used in this manner ; see No. VIII. It 
 frequently occurs in other inscriptions in Asia Minor, copied by 
 Mr. C. Baxter was the first who explained the similar form, Z^lcSiXa 
 <J»f Mdxxov, on one of the Palmyrene marbles. Barthelemy * after- 
 wards confirmed the truth of the explanation, by observino- that the 
 words in the Palmyrene inscription, which corresponded to this ex- 
 pression in Greek, the one being a version of the other, gave the 
 meaning proposed by Baxter. In an inscription, copied by Mr. C, 
 we find also the form APISTAPXOI TPIS NOTMHNIOT, " Aristar- 
 chus, great grandson of Numenius." 
 
 XIX. 
 
 CTG *ANOOPHTl APIC 
 
 AHCxecnpoToc 
 nAAocerxAPicTXiN 
 KTPiAicNeMece 
 ciNerxHNeneN 
 
 ATTOnAAAmN 
 
 zerrocKAieNoi 
 
 AIAKAIXOIPONTAIC 
 ©eAICeTXAPICTHPION 
 IOHAAAeKAlTI2<I>OINI 
 - i2NHNKAI0TCIAC 
 
 At Halicarnassus. 
 
 The correction of many words in this inscription is necessary, in 
 order to complete the sense. Letters are marked as doubtful in four 
 of the lines in Captain Beaufort's copy. I have transcribed it, to show 
 
 • Ac. des Inscr. 26. 590, 
 4b 2
 
 556 
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 that in this part of Asia Minor also the goddesses Nemeses were 
 worshipped. They were venerated at Smyrna *, and the games 
 in honour of them are mentioned in Dio. f 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 3, 4, 5. ETX. " Eu%a;fj(rT£< Ai*, non gratias agit, sed donum dat 
 Jovi." Bimard. Diss. 1. 40. KTPinN. TXIN KTPinN NEMEEEHN, 
 in Chandler, Ins. Ant. p. 96. KYPIAN IZIAA. Hamilton, iEgyp. 52. 
 The offering was that of two tunics (perhaps sTrevSuToc) and a pair of 
 cloaks. 'EvSuTct KCii TrXoKocf/.cvg 6sto FccXXog. Epig. MS. in Spanheim 
 ad Callim. p. 528. 
 
 L. 5. Euxv- Eu^xo-Oki, ut siippUcatio apud Latinos, non tarn pre- 
 cationem, quam gratiarum actionem denotat. Chishull, A. As. 55. 
 
 XX. 
 
 - - HMO^ETEIMH^EN 
 
 NANANTETEOT20TrATEPA 
 
 rONEDNETSXHMONESTA 
 
 Ti2NKAI<I>IAOTEIMI2NrT 
 
 NAIKAAEKONf2X05Al2TOT 
 
 NINEIANAPOSET5XHiMONE2 
 
 TATOTK A I n Pf2TH 5TA 
 
 EEI22APETH2ENEKENKAI 
 
 •tlAANAPIASTHSEISATTON 
 
 XXL 
 
 OAHM02ETEIMH 
 2ENMNEINKON12 
 N02NEANIAN(l>IA0A0 
 rONTAPMATOSBOT 
 AETTlKOTETlKAinO 
 AEITHNSIAHTi2NT0NE 
 X2NET2XHMONE5TA 
 TilNKAI'tlAOTEIlVmN 
 APETH5ENEKENKAIETN0IA2 
 TH2EI2EATT0N 
 
 XXII. 
 p 
 
 *IAO - - E TEKAIE 
 
 KAIAISAHMIOTPFHSANTO 
 
 AHNO*EAl2SnPTTANET2 
 
 T02ArNI2SAEKAnPI2TEYSAN 
 
 T02AMEMnT02ArOPANOMH 
 
 SANTOSEKTENilSSEITHNH 
 
 2ANT022nOTAAII25STNAIKH 
 
 • Pausanias, iii Ach. and Bceot. 
 
 f Vales. Emen. 1. ii. c. 1 7.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 557 
 
 SANTOSniSTIlSrPAMMATET 
 2ANT02BOTAH5EniMEAOS 
 10 KAIENETEPOlSAEIKANflSnE 
 
 <I)IA0TEIMHMEN0TAPETH2ENE 
 KENKAIETN0IA2TH5EI2ATT0N 
 
 These three inscriptions were found by Captain Beaufort, at Ha- 
 maxia, in Cilicia. 
 
 Ins. XX. " The people honour Nana, daughter of , sprung 
 
 from parents eminent for their birth and station, and their munifi- 
 cence ; wife of Conon, the grandson of Ninei ? a man of distinguished 
 character, and of the highest rank : — on account of her virtue, and 
 love of her husband." 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 3. Such is the meaning ofEua-xnf^uv. " Antiquiores etmehores 
 Grasci lua-xvf^ovct de honesto ac moderato viro dixere ; idiotismus pos- 
 terioris Graeciae pro divite et honorato, et in dignitate constitute earn 
 vocem usurpat : et sic intelhgendus evirxKi^i^v jSouAeut^V in Evan. Matt, 
 de Senatore spectabiU et honorato vel divite." Salm. de L. H. 100. 
 TaV evcrxvi^ovai?, " honourable women." Acts of the Apostles, c. xiii. 
 
 L. 7. Ko[/,i^Tuv TT^uTov Tccyi/,xTog. Euseb. de vita Const. 1. iv. 
 
 Ins. XXI. " The people honour Ninei, son of Conon, a man of 
 letters and of various knowledge ; of the rank of Decurio ; citizen 
 also of Side, &c." 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 3. Appello <piXo\oyUv, historiae et rerum antiquarum cognitionem, 
 literasque humaniores, quas qui tenent, eruditi proprie vocantur. Cas- 
 aub. in Sueton. vit. Aug. 
 
 L. 4. ToT? \k Toil u^iUfiaTtKov Kui j3cvXcUf^ctTiy.ou ra.'yfjLix.Tog. Greg. Naz. 
 
 in Epis. 22. ad Cass. See Vales, in Eus. H. E. 1. vii. 132. 
 
 Ins. XXII. In honour of one who had filled twice the office of De- 
 miurgus ; who was also Prytan, Decaprotos, Jjldile, Purveyor of corn, 
 (r\jv^tKo;, or defender of the rights of the province, and Secretary of 
 the senate.
 
 558 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 2. AHMIOT. See note to No. XIV. 
 
 L. 3. The letter H is marked as doubtful in Capt. Beaufort's copy. 
 
 L. 4. AEKAn. See note to Inscr. XIV. 
 
 L. 7. Tuv^M. Sjndici, qui a singulis urbibus mittuntur patroni ad 
 causam unius provincias tuendam. Budasus. 114. 
 
 L. 8. The rPAMMATETr, in some of the Asiatic cities, was a situ- 
 ation of considerable importance. Sometimes the same person was 
 Af;^j<£f£uc, and r^a.fji.fjLa.Tiv^. II est prouve par les medailles que dans 
 quelques villes comme a Njsa, le yfcci/.f^ccTsv; etoit Eponyme. Belley. 
 Fastes de Cyzique. 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 AMATPHAT0SETTTXI2 
 
 NOSETTTXHSrSIAHTHSAN 
 
 APnNnrrMHNAABUNA 
 
 ©AONTOTE0EMAKAITON 
 
 ANAPIANTA2TNTHBA2EI 
 
 A2KHSANTO2KAinPO0TMH2A 
 
 MENOTTOYnATP02AYTOYZI22lMOT 
 
 At Side. Copied by JNIr. Cockerell. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 1. ETTTXIANOE? 
 
 L. 6. nPO0. We find mention, as late as the time of Basil, of this 
 
 custom of exhorting those who were about to combat in the games. 
 
 roftvatTTat xoii "TTociSoT^ifieiii Tr^og roils Iv ro7g (TTccSioig uyuivug lovg ddXovvTocs 
 
 "TTpoccyovTBg 'TToXXci — oicix.eXevovTKi. UedI NijtTTs/af. 
 
 XXIV. 
 
 ©EI22EBA2TI2KAI2APIKAI 
 n02EIAi2MA2a>AVEmKAI 
 A*POAEITHETnAOIA 
 
 At Coryco, on the coast of Lycia. * 
 
 ' Copied by Captain Beaufort and Mr. Cockerell.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 559 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 2. *0/j Uoa-iiSuv A(r(px\Biog 1(j-tiv ■!} Bx^tyj^Ioc. Arist. Achar. 683. 
 See also Plutarch in v. Thes. at the end. 
 
 L. 3. ETn. KviSiot Se auTot KaXova-m EiivrXoixv. Pausan. in Attic. 
 Callirrhoe, addressing Venus, says, TrXyjv ou (pof^ovfzai, a-ou f^ot o-u/attXecuo-*;?. 
 See Chariton. Aphrod. p. 135. 
 
 XXV. 
 
 <i>TAH 
 KAlSAPHOSnAIAION 
 AAKIBlAAHNEniKOI 
 TilNOSSEB - *IAOnA 
 TPINKAIETEPrETHN 
 TH2nOAEi2S*H<I'I 
 SAMENOTKAIEniME 
 AH0ENTO2 - TIB - KA - 
 ZliSlMOTOTAVEPIANOT 
 rPAMMATEliSTHSnOAEi22 
 
 Copied, by the editor, at Nasli Bazar, in Asia Minor ; also by Po- 
 cocke and Mr. Cockerell. 
 
 VERSION. 
 " The Coesarean tribe honour Publius ^lius Alcibiades, master of 
 the bedchamber of Augustus, lover of his country, benefactor of the 
 city," &c. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 2. A small omicron appears on the stone between tlie two lines 
 of the n. 
 
 L. 3. Eni KO. " Cubiculi praefectus." See Valckenaer in Herod, 
 p. 6. ed. Wess. In one of the ecclesiastical writers we find 'Eva-sf-wv 
 •n-^oea-TUToi tou j3x(rtXiKov xotruvog. Socr. H. E. 1. iii. c. 1. In Ammianus 
 Mar. " Eusebius cui erat Constantini thalami cura commissa." 
 " Blastus, the King's Ciiamberlain." Tov Itt] tou Koiruvog, See Acts 
 of the Apos. c. xii. v. 20.
 
 560 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 XXVI. 
 
 AHMASKAI 
 
 rAiosrnEP 
 
 BOI2NIAIi2NnA 
 niAAI - - ISOTH 
 PIETXHNKAI 
 HPAKAHIANIK 
 HTil - 
 
 Copied by Colonel Leake in Phrygia. See p. 215. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 4. " To Papias Jupiter, saviour, &c." The Bithynians, we 
 learn from Arrian, called Jupiter ITAnAZ, pater. " Non tantum 
 nAnAZ, nAniAS, nAnnAI, sed et has dicebatur." Valck. in 
 Herod. 1. iv. p. 307. Wess. Tl -TrccTnx, in Aristoph. Vesp. 296, is 
 explained by the Scholiast, u ttcctb^. 
 
 L. 6. " Herculi Invicto." Reines. Ins. " Passim in antiquis 
 inscriptionibus ' Deus et invictus' Hercules dicitur." Heins. Ex. 
 Sacrae, 340. 
 
 xxvn. 
 
 AnOAAOAnPOT 
 I20TEA0T©TrATHP MEAITTA 
 
 TIT0H 
 
 1 EN0AAETHNXPHSTHNTIT0HNKATArAIAKA\TnT 
 
 EIinnO2TPATHSKAINTNnO0EI2EKZA2AN2E<I>IA 
 OTNTITQHKAINTNSETIMflOTSANKATAFHS 
 KAITIMH2122EAXPIANZAOIAAAE20IOTIKAIKATAr 
 
 5 H2EinEPXPHSTOI2rEPA2E2TINnPATEl20ITIM 
 
 AITIT©HnAPA*EP2E*ONEinAOTTi2NITEKEINTAI 
 
 In the possession of the Earl of Guildford. Copied by Demetrius 
 
 Schinas. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 I have not been able to examine the original stone ; but, in the 
 copy sent to me, a letter of this form. A, occurs three times, instead 
 of n ; in line 2. in zniAN ; in line 4. in AXPI AN zn ; in line 5. in 
 npnTEI.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 56X 
 
 L. 1. See a similar line in Boissonade's Commentary on the Actian 
 inscription, published in his edition of Holstein's letters. 
 
 L. 4. "A^^ii; av, jt*6%j(f xv are often used in this sense ; in Menander 
 we read, ^* roui Trsi/o/^acuf, MEXPIS AN ZXIIIN, ■7rov€7v. Phil. Lip. 
 p. 82 ; and in Anthol. H. Steph. p. 20. 'Ax^'g ocv rjg ayocf/.og^ " as long 
 as you was unmarried." 
 
 Mr. Blomfield arranges the lines in the following manner ; and re- 
 marks that a similar mixture of prose and verse is found in other in- 
 scriptions. 
 
 Bfddos T'tjv ^fijtTTiji' TtTSijv xocTcc yoAO, zocXv-TTTei. 
 
 l-TTTTOKOKTVIi; KXl VVV TTodeTo'B. 
 
 xx] ^ua-oiv (T B<pt\cvv, TtrSr!, no.] vvv (r bti tijau 
 
 Old oTi Koii KSLTX yrig, etTTEp ^i^(rTOig yBoag bo'tiv. 
 
 ripurr <roi rifioci 
 u riT^x, TTct^x <pBp(re(povri TIXovtuvI T£ kbTvtui. 
 
 L. 1 . He refers to Anthol. Pal. ed. Jacobs, p. 306. ecSa^e tt^v U^xv 
 
 KB^xXyjv KccTX yx7» kuXutttbi. 
 
 L. 2. He prefers 'iTTTroxfa'rijf, and interprets K, KAI. Of this 
 abbreviated form I find the following instances. 'AyuvoOBTi^a-xvTa 
 
 Jif Tov T6 KOiVou Tuv FxXxTUv K oif Tcov Ispcov iHyuvuv. Van. Dale. 292. 
 
 In another inscription, given by MafFei, Mus. Veron. p. lix., we 
 read, rTNAIKOIKTEKNUNATTaNK ; in the K, in this instance, 
 there is a horizontal line drawn through the middle. The third 
 instance is of a later date, in Chandler, In. An. p. 18. TFIEPETXHC 
 KCOTEPIAC. X. T. X. 
 
 XXVIII. 
 
 OTNOMA0E2MO<I>ANHNMEnATHP*IAO2HAAMAMHTHP 
 KIK7\H::KONATEPOTnPIN©ANATOIOTTXEIN 
 
 EnTAAEMOIMOIPAinEPITEAAOMENOTSENIATTOTS 
 EIw\I12ANT0MIT0l2ATP0nArPA4'AMENAI 
 
 KAinANTi2NMEKAAi2NOSAnAl2l<l>EPlSTOI2 
 
 - - 2ENnP04>PONEi22KAEINOSEMEIOnATHP 
 
 VOL. II. 4 C
 
 562 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 nA2A2rAPAOIBASTEKAIOS2AMEMHAE0EOI21N 
 
 EINEKEMH2*TXH20TAinEMEIAlXIOI2 
 
 KAIFAPMETM ©YHnOAOIHPESmNHN 
 
 TEANTE5 - - - lASANETKAEIHN 
 2TEMMAAE - - - - AmNT2OT0IA2I2TAI 
 
 nTP*OP KATEHETEAOTN 
 
 - - AONEEl 2AOr02ANAPi2N 
 
 nAIAA - tt)iAEOTSl0EOI 
 
 TOTNEKAMOinATEPE20AE*ANH5EIMHKETI2EIO 
 
 TEIPOMENOiriVTKEPHNTPYXEXPONOKPAAIHN 
 
 On a stone in the possession of the Earl of Guildford, brought 
 from Athens. The copy was communicated to me by Demetrius 
 Schinas. 
 
 K^kXtjo-kov ouscou TTptv docvdroto TU^e7v' 
 'Etttocos f^oi [^oT^oii TTS^iTeXXof^evovg svtuvTovg 
 F.}iXu<rcx.vTO fjiiTo7q octdottu yp(x.^id,u.iiioi.i, 
 
 5 • X-tX.1 TTOUVTUV US KCiXuv OCTO. TTOiKr] ^£flO"T0<f 
 
 (TiV TT^O^^OViug KXeiVO^ SjjLiTo TTUTTI^' 
 
 ITaVa? yocg XcifSag te y.a,i ocrcra ^j^ijAe Sso7(rtv 
 
 "EirBK Sfir,g ipu^^f cv Xi-m fJLuXfx^ioic,' 
 xcn ya,^ fx, BUfA ^ur,-!roXoi vioB(rH))vi\v 
 
 10 V - OCVTBg lOKTCCV BUX.XBt'^V' 
 
 (jTB^fjLOL CB Aicivv<rcv SiutruToci 
 
 nVQ(f:op HOiTB^BTBXcVV' 
 
 XovBei (rXoyog ocvocuv 
 
 Tloitdx (piXsov<rt Ssoi, 
 
 15 TovvBxa. fA.01 Tra'rep b^QXe cpavvjiTBt. fii^xeri ctTo 
 
 TBtpofA.Bvog yXvy.BpYiV T^t;;:(^£ XS^^V "po'o"?''' 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 1. Thesmophanes belonged to a society under the protection of 
 IJacchus. There were 6<aVo(, also sacred to Hercules and Apollo, and 
 other deities. Isaeus, in his speech on the estate of Astyphilus, 
 mentions one under the care of Hercules. " My father introduced 
 Astyphilus as a boy to the feasts of Hercules, in order to procure his
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 563 
 
 admission into that society." See Sir W. Jones, Isaeus. 112., ha-^yuysv 
 elg dixa-ovg tov li^x>iXeoug I'va, i/.iri-x^oi rr,g ytoivuvioig. In the Anthologia, (eu. 
 H. Steph.) there is an epitaph on a young person who was member 
 of a Thiasus. p. 258. 
 
 L. 2. ATE. Tlie word is found in Hesychius, but is not cited 
 from any author. Jablonski, Pan. ^gy. 1. ii. p. 292. quotes from 
 
 ProcluS, ;I/u;^arff Svs^uig. 
 
 L. 4. Moi^uv wV iTTSKKua-e jtctVof. Rein. Ins. p. 330. 
 
 lb. 'ArpOTTa. M/o5 tuv f^oiouv ocToo-TTog, ETrel to, ttx^sXQovtcx, ttxvtx UT^iirrcc 
 eiTTi. Auctor. de Mundo. 
 
 L. 8. " Mulciber apud vetustissimos Latinos est proprie f/.uxix'^og 
 Qeog." Seal, in Varronem, 37. 
 
 L. 9. h^s(riavvjv. 'Hf/i/sof, in Herod. i. 195, for It^lnoq, 
 
 L. 11. (rTBf/.ucic. TcucrS' eiTTe^a,vu(rocv ol QiatruTut. Ins. Ant. Chandler, 
 p. 79. 
 
 L. 12. jcaxEKTEXew does not occur in the Lexicons; but we have 
 ivocTTOTsXeu and avviKTiXiu. IlTB[/.fjLix KXTB^ersXouv, " They offered to me, 
 they gave me a crown." TEAEH, Su, -ttoc^oIo-x'^- Hesych. 
 
 L. 13, 14. Alluding to the opinion respecting the early death of 
 those whom the gods love. 
 
 L. 15. The word OANHSEI requires explanation. 
 
 For the following conjectures and remarks I am indebted to 
 
 Mr. Blomfield. 
 
 L. 2. 7re^iTBXXo[u,ivovg IviuvTovg. II. d. 404. 418. 
 
 L. 5. Qu. KAAYZEN, Ko.) ttoIvtuv. L. 6. OAHSEN, in Mr, Hughes's 
 copy, taken at Athens, and KAIHEN in the beginning of line 5. 
 L. 9. X.OCI yd^ [A, Eui^oXttoio SvrjTroXot hpstrtuvrsv 
 
 Kctv<ruvTig (or rev^ocvTsg^ uira.iTca euKXstrjv. 
 
 L. 11. (rTEf/.f^x Se xdx. fjiV^Toto Aiuvucou 9iot,<ruTxt 
 nup(poDOi ug A'ioocv fivr,jjLa KXTe^BreXouv. 
 So Meleager. Lro^yxg Xel^xvov eig AVSav. 
 
 * Or, n. Iv TsXeraij. See Aristoph. Ran. 325 — 330., and the Scholiast. — B. 
 
 4c 2
 
 564 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 JLt. 13. xaXov itcii BiOTCv Xxfnrgov t e%w, ug Xoycg ccvSpcHv, 
 
 UacTaa veov 6vi^(rKSiv ov (piXeov(n deoi, or 
 
 ria.Tdo'g i^sv xuToi yoig ovg piXeou(rt 9B0t, as JNIr. Huglies's copy 
 
 has OAIi^AIN PAS. 
 
 Li. 14. Ov 0* 9io] (piXoij(riv ccTfoQvvia-nit vioc, JNlenander, in Stob. cxxi. 
 
 XXIX. 
 
 121 
 
 TH5inno2 
 THSinnoT 
 
 XI02 
 EAANH<i>OP02 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 1. The dative ILEI occurs in an inscription found at Arta, in 
 1814. See Boissonade ; Com. on the Actian Inscription. 
 
 L. 5. The name is Ctesippus ; and his office was that of ]Me- 
 lanephorus. These worshippers, or priests, of Isis, are frequently 
 mentioned in inscriptions. See Le Moyne, in his treatise De Me- 
 lanephoris. 
 
 XXX. 
 
 2APAniAIi:iIAIAN0TBIAI 
 AI0rENH2*AXI0TAAABAAlAETS 
 KATAnPOS MA 
 
 This, as well as the preceding, were found in Delos : both were 
 copied by Mr. Cockerell. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 2. AAABANAETS is the Ethnical name. Steph. in v. A. 
 
 L. 3. U^oiTTa.yi/.x. Not an uncommon form in inscriptions ; in 
 Latin, the word " Imperio" is used, as Imperio Veneris, Rein. 
 pp.442. 151. Some command of the Deity, to whom the conse-. 
 cration was made, is supposed to have been given either by dream, 
 oracle, or prophecy.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 5(J5 
 
 XXXI. 
 
 niT0EIAAI0EOAi2PONEnEinOAINHESH2E 
 
 nETKAAIMOi:iArANH:2MHAE::inPO:iTA5lH2 
 NAIMHNKAIKTEATE22lNEnEIAinEnA2lNEMES0AI 
 
 APTTPONESrENEHNnASANEnESSOMENXiN 
 
 Copied at Epidaurus by Mr. Cockerell. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 1. HEH. This is the correction of Porson and Jacobs. UoXiv 
 ^ipT,(Ti scribendum esse docui in Animadv. nee aliter Porsonus. * See 
 the Adv. p. 40. In Chandler HESHEE, in Mr. Cockerell HEEHEE. 
 
 L. 3. KTEATEITHN in Chandler's copy, who corrects it to ktsxtio-' 
 Tov. KTBi^Tea-a-tv gives a better sense : " Nay, even with his wealth ; 
 since" &c. 
 
 L. 4. EOESSOMENHN. Chandler, p. 80. 
 
 XXXII. 
 
 EniIEPE12SKPES*ONTOTETOT2PNZ 
 
 APilNOQETHS 
 TIB - KiVATAI02KPI5niANOTTI02APlSTOMENH2 
 
 IEPO0TTAI 
 API2TOBOYA02API2TOBOTAOTNOBI02ALVIANOS 
 rPAMMATETSSO'I'OSXA^VEIAO^OPOSK.VATAIOSTPOIAOS 
 
 At JNIessene. From J\Ir. Cockerell ; copied also by the Earl of 
 Aberdeen. Cyriacus, of Ancona, transcribed part of the inscription, 
 as far as APIETOiMENHI. See Reines. p. 286, who explains the nu- 
 merals PNZ. 
 
 XXXIII. 
 
 AnOAAXlNOS 
 AA^NAO'OPIfl 
 APTAM1A02 
 20i2AINA2 
 
 At Chaeronea. -f 
 
 * Vol. iii. part 2. 9 IJ). Anth. Palat. f From Mr. Cockerell.
 
 5(^6 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 2. In this word the Itora is inserted according to the iEolo-Doric 
 custom, as we shall have occasion to observe in the following in- 
 scription. 'AttoXXuv ^x(pvri(po^oq occurs in Plutarch, v. Peric. 
 
 XXXIV. 
 
 1 - - OSMEAANTIX.QAPXONTOS 
 
 TON - TEr - A^ANT - ENOHAITA 
 
 nOAEiMAPXIONT12N 
 
 EANAHIANOS - - - 2Ai2N - AO 
 5 <i>A - - INi2 - - TIMANAPIA - 
 
 MOTAriONT02rAAi2NOSnOATKPITII2 
 
 FPAMMATIAAONTOS 
 
 XA<I>l20Ai2Pi22AiMmNm 
 
 HIS KOAmPOS 
 
 10 APXIA2 ONAKI02 
 
 0PI2 P0TAI02 
 
 2 A X 2K iriTONIOS 
 
 nOIAIKOS - m 0T2 - XI02 
 
 TPIAKAAmNEPAMNONAAO 
 15 APAQONAmNIOS 
 
 ANTIFENEISANTirilNIOS 
 
 OAAI2NIAA2MNA2mNI02 
 
 AmNTANAKi2NI02 
 
 MNASlftNKA IH02 
 20 MENEKPATEl2MOAi2NI02 
 
 HAHMI2NNmNI0S 
 
 ETO<I>EAIN02ArOAAOAIlPI02 
 
 A]\1<J>ITIM02ETI2TI0S 
 
 ET<i>P0NI2K020NA5IMA2 
 25 EIPHIAAEirPTKIXIOS 
 
 AMH N5 TliNIOS 
 
 KAmN ilPO 12PI02 
 
 MEAAMBIOSKAEOnOAEiMIOS 
 
 APXirnOS EAITX2NI02 
 30 KAPI2ANAP02HENOKPATI02 
 
 THAIAX2P12NK.\112NI02 
 
 ET<I)AMIAA22lANOPIAAO 
 
 APFOTNIflN NI 2NIAA0 
 
 At Topolias, in Bceotia ; copied by Mr. Cockerell. * 
 
 * L. 4. IIANAEIilNOS. L. 5. The name 4>IAIN0S is found on an Orchomenian 
 marble seen by Dr. Clarke. L. 6. Perhaps IIAKiiNOS, a name which occurs on the
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. ^67 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Many letters appear to be wanting in this inscription. The Archon 
 was Melantichus, a name found in Murat. ii. dcxlix., but it is difficult 
 to give a meaning to the second line ; the Polemarchs were probably 
 Panaxio, the son of Saonidas, and Philinus, the son of Timandrias. 
 Pado, son of Polycritus, was head or leader of some musical exhibition ; 
 Cephisodorus, son of Samio, was secretary. There is no adjective to 
 denote the office filled by the names which follow in a long list. 
 
 The mode of writing the cases in these names deserves to be re- 
 marked. There is no doubt that MOAHNIOS, line 20, is the geni- 
 tive of MOAXIN ; that KAIXiNIOS, in line 31, is the genitive of 
 KAIXIN (the iEolic KAEIiN.) NinNlOI, in 1.21, is in the same 
 case, from NIXIN, (nexin), a name found in Demosthenes ; MNAII- 
 XINIOS, 1. 17, is from MNAi:inN, found in 1. 19 ; and nOATKPITIOT, 
 1. 6, is the genitive of Polycritus, as AA$NAOOPm was written in the 
 preceding inscription for AA0NH<[>OPOT. The 1 is also redundant in 
 1. 12, which may be read SAMIXOS KAIOrimNIOS, or TIMOri- 
 TXINIOI, or 0IOriTnNIO£. The same remark applies to 1. 26, 
 where we may read AMINIAS AAMnHNIOS, a name occurring on 
 another Boeotian marble, or nAATaNIOS ; and to 1. 29, APXinnOI 
 MEAITIINIOS ; and to line 3. 
 
 L. 22. and 28. AnOAAOAHPIOE, KAEOnOAEMIOS. In an inscrip- 
 tion found at Thebes, we read Aiovua-iog 'H^cckXi'^xo, 'TTraTo^u^o? A^KrTBiS»o, 
 VLa.<pi<ToSu^og AnOAAOAHPIOI, N/xwi' MEAANTIXIOS. Murator. t. ii. 
 p. Dxcv. ; and in another, ZniAOS AAEsANAPOT, EPMOFENHL 
 AnOAAXlNIOI. 
 
 Instances of a redundant use of the I are not unfrequent in iEo\o- 
 
 very anticnt vase of Mr. Dodwell; he was Moi/aayaiv, written here Mouayi'oiv; tlie 1 
 beinr; inserted as in other parts of the inscription. In INIuratori we read, iNIOT^illiV 
 ENAPXONTI MHTPOAI2PI1, t. ii. dcli. Some of the Dorians wrote xMcuixa tor Mou- 
 (Tixa. Etym. M. 391. and Motia was in use; " In quibusdam dictionibiis solcbant Boeoti 
 pro 0-, h scribere, Miiha pro Miisa dicentes." Priscian. p. 25. L. '^. Perliaps iAMI- 
 XiNlOS for 2AMmX0:^. L. 10. Archias, son of Pythonax, a name found in Demos- 
 thenes. L. 11. EnAMIXnXAAO, L. \C>. AXTI^OXTO:^. L. 19. KAAAIKA102. 
 L.30. K is probably correct; as in the Cumean marble, TnAPKOlSAi for TnAPXOT- 
 2A2.
 
 568 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS, 
 
 Doric inscriptions. In one copied in Thessaly by Colonel Leake, 
 and printed in this volume, we read the name nOAYMNIAITOS ; 
 on another, found by him and Mr. Cockerell, in Boeotia, and pub- 
 lished by the former in the Class. Journ. with an explanation, 
 TIOTXAN occurs for TTXAN. AxixoSbtou, in Chishull, An. As. p. 88, 
 is Aai/,io9iTov, in a Doric decree, p. 118. An Agrigentine marble has 
 
 hf/,en; ccvxSsfA.siv, yiyovnv (for ■yiyovi.MOt.i^ and the Dorians said f^oxSyjiriu, 
 TT^CAiii^iu, sfifxevtu, TTDoi^io^Bv, y^oc^irtoi^sQct.. * '0< Auou^q Scrtrov a.<Tcriov (^atr*, 
 Kx\ f^ccxxov [jLuXXiov. Eustat. 1643. 1. 32. 
 
 XXXV. 
 
 1 BOmXfiNTA - . OAAXE0EIKAN 
 
 TH2XAPITE22IKATTAMMANTEIIAN 
 
 Ti2AnOA.\I2NOSAPXONT02 
 
 SAMIAOI2MEINI - - TAOE - - Hi2 
 5 A*EAPIATET0NTi2X 
 
 MEAANNIOSNIKOKAEIOSEPXOMENm 
 
 H2XPli2N02©EP2ANAPIXi)K0Pi2NEI02 
 
 APNOK7\EIO2ANIIOXIAAOAN0AAONm 
 
 APi:>TIiNO2MENNIAAO0EI2ntEIOS 
 10 nPAHITEAIOSAPI5TOK-MAAO0EIBHI2 
 
 OIOMNASTflEPMAIKQTANAr m 
 
 rOT0i2NO2KAAAiriTONO2iiP12nm 
 rPAMMATEYONTOS 
 
 AI0KAEI02A10<I>ANTi2nAATAEI02 
 15 MANTETOMENil 
 
 AINIAOEP - - Tli2X0202 - - niEIOS 
 
 oinponioNios 
 
 ETMEI AOEPXOMENIIl 
 
 ATEY0NT02 
 20 liAlVinPIAO 0TX2EPX0MENm 
 
 At Orchomenus. f The inscription relates to a consecration of a 
 
 • Maitt. on Oxf. Marb. p. 62S. He makes a remark which has been confirmed by 
 many inscriptions recently discovered. HfEC vocum monstra a communi formatione et usu 
 adeo aliena, oscitantibus niarmorariis impiitarem, nisi sa?pius repeterentur ; et si forsan 
 plura superessent monumenta gentium iliarum Dialectis exarata, permulta hujusmodi oc- 
 currerent a consueta GriEcorum lingua hand minus discrepantia. 
 
 f From Mr. Cockerell. Copied also by Col. Leake. L. 4. TAO0EIBHIi. L. 8. 
 
 ANTIOXIAAO. L. 11. ©lOM TANAEPIO. L. 16. EPMOTIX2NOS ©EI2. 
 
 L. 18. EYMENIAAO. L. 20. AAMOPIAO. Akerblad.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS 569 
 
 Tripod to the Graces, who were particularly reverenced at Orcho- 
 menus. (Theoc. Idyll, xvi. 104.) 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 2. KocTu Tr,v Tou dscv lcccvtsixv. Plato. " Ex DeiOraculo." H. Steph. 
 
 L. 4, &c. Samias, son of Ismenias, Theban, was Archon ; * Melas, 
 son of Nicocles, of Orchomenus ; iEschrio, son of Thersandrichus, of 
 Corone ; Arnocles, son of Antiochidas, of Anthedon ; Aristo, son of 
 Menidas, of Thespias ; Praxiteles, son of Aristoclidas, of Thebes ; 
 Theomnestus, son of Hermaicus, of Tanagra ; Pytho, son of Calli- 
 giton, of Oropus, raised or placed the tripod ; Diodes was secretary ; 
 Dinias was augur ; Eumenidas was expounder of the oracle ; and 
 Lamprias was priest. 
 
 L. 1. In Col. Leake's copy, BOinTOITONTPinOAAANEGEIKAN. 
 
 L. 4. Ismenias occurs in another inscription copied at Orchomenus : 
 it was the name also of a celebrated Theban musician. See Vales. 
 Em. lib. ii. 
 
 lb. In Col. Leake's copy, ©EIBHU. In an Orchomenian inscription, 
 copied by Dr. Clarke, we have ©EIBEIOI, where the EI is used both 
 for H and AI. 
 
 L. 5. This word appears without any variation in the two copies of 
 the marble. Perhaps it is synonymous with AOIAPTH, " erigo, col- 
 loco," alluding to the placing or raising the Tripod. The Greeks 
 said, l(^u and le^xTeuu, probably also IS^vu and IS^oLTsvca ; the second i in 
 IS^iuTEvu is inserted as in other words in the Boeotian dialect, already 
 referred to. The E is substituted for I in a^E^fiaxEua, according to 
 the J^olo-Doric custom ; AnYAEAOi:0AI is found in the Cumean 
 inscription for AnOAIAOI0Al. Caylus, Rec. t. ii. 
 
 L. 17. Read eiOnPOIIIONTOI, according to the Boeotian dialect, 
 for GEOnPOnE. GeoV^ ottoj had two meanings f ; in one sense it was sy- 
 nonymous with n^o^^'riyf, as in the present instance. It was the busi- 
 ness of the " propheta" to interpret and put into writing the answer 
 
 • MEAAN02 uio'f. ^lian. n. I. 1. 3. f Larcher, Herod, vol. iv. p. 331. 
 
 VOL. II. • 4 D
 
 570 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 of the oracle. * Col. Leake's copy gives the termination ONTOZ, 
 which confirms the proposed reading ; and in 1. 7., ©EPIANAPIAO. 
 See Class. Jour. vol. xiii. 
 
 L. 19. Read lEPATETONTOr. 
 
 XXXVI. 
 
 1 AAY 
 
 E:ii:siAHPiAE3:orHS:iiii 
 
 KAPKlNiilll^TAINATA 
 AEESAAEinXPON i I i K IB 
 5 12TOi:iIIIIKPIArEPITOE 
 
 AOSENTEAH0PONO2 i i; 
 AI<i>PO2lBA0PA : nil 1 0PON 
 OSMIKPOSiliKAINHSMI 
 KPAii:BA0PONANAKj\lS 
 
 10 inexon:i:kibi2tiamik 
 
 APA:iir:BA0PONTrOKPAT 
 HPION : I : KIBflTIONRA A 
 TT i I : ENTill AM$inO AEI 
 i2ITAAEXAAKION0EPM 
 15 ANTHPIONiliXEPONinT 
 
 P0N;i:*IAAA:ilinEAEKT2iIi 
 OXAOSiliMAXAIPIAilll 
 AINAilllXAAKIONEI 
 
 othpion:i;apt2tixo 
 
 20 SiIiH©MOSiIi 
 
 From jJ^gina. f 
 
 The quffistors at Athens (OI TAMIAI THE 0EOY KAI THN GEXIN) 
 gave an account every year to their successors, of the sacred offerings, 
 or vessels, or ornaments, which had been entrusted to their care by 
 those who preceded them. The weight, the number, the nature of 
 these sacred articles, are recorded in some imperfect but antient in- 
 scriptions published by Chandler. Among these le^a ^^jf/^ara, are, 
 ITEOANOI, OIAAAI, ADOPANTHPION, 0TMIATHPION, KAPXHSION, 
 OINOXOAI, KPATHP, MAXAIPA. (Chandler, p. xv. p. xvii. p. xviii.) 
 
 * See Valck. in Herod, p. 555., also, Chishull, Mil. Ins. in An. As. 
 f Copied by Mr. Cockeiell. L. 5. REPI. L. 11. TCOK. L. 15. 0EPMA. L. 17. 
 M0XA02. L. 18. KAINA. L. 19. AOTH. Akerbiad.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 571 
 
 The inscription before us contains an inventory, or list, of various 
 vessels, instruments, and offerings belonging to a temple at ^E^ina, 
 in which may be seen some of the preceding articles. It is of 
 antient date, as we may infer from the mode of dividing the words in 
 general with the vertical stops, found only in monuments of remote 
 times. The numerals are placed in the same manner as in the in- 
 scriptions given in Chandler. The KiGcotoi and Kifcunx are mentioned 
 in the iEgina marble ; and in Chandler's work the contents of these 
 sacred chests, y.ifiuTOi, are noticed. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 1, 2. AAYIIE or AAYIEE, " two chains." « Three irons from 
 within a window." onHI. otty,, Gv^t'i. Hesych. 'Ex, used as ccttc, to 
 denote the removal from the inside of a place. Matth. G. G. § 574, 
 
 L. .3. Read tCAPKINn. II. It is uncertain whether we are to refer 
 the word to K.a.^-^7vog, an instrument or machine, of a shape like the 
 
 claws of a crab, Kot^KTvog Xidou; sX'Jv' enrotg (5" dv ko.) f^ij^av^v XiSz.yuycv, 
 
 (Jul. Polluc. 1. X. 1332.), or to ku^kwo?, forceps. The former is defined, 
 Instrumentum fabrile, quo saxa tollebant, vel comprehendebant ; a 
 cancrinis pedibus ita dictum, nimirum qui ad quid tenendum certe 
 aptissimi. Jungerm. in Polluc. 
 
 L. 4. " A pot to hold ointment.*' 'E^aXBiTrr^ov is rendered, in our 
 English version of Job, " a pot of ointment." xli. 31. 
 
 L. 5. " The scaffolding round the statue complete ;" or, " the 
 wooden rails round it." As we do not know on what occasion or for 
 what purpose this dv 01.^^0.(^71 was made, we cannot give the precise 
 meaning of 'liccis:. "Eoog is sometimes a " temple." (D'Arnaud de 
 Diis Paredris.) 
 
 L. 8. 10. Both ZMIKPOE and MIFCPOS appear in this inscription. 
 In line 10. AlIKAPA requires some alteration. Probably MIKEPA was 
 a Greek word. See Blomfield, ad v, 446. Pers. Gloss. 
 
 L. 7. " A seat with a back ; one chair ; four stools." The doovc? is 
 often mentioned in Pausanias. See also Herod, i. 14. I have 
 adopted the definition in Hesychius, S. dvaKXnci Sltp^oc. Quatremere, 
 
 4 D 2
 
 ^72 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 in his work on the " Jupiter Olympien," gives a representation of 
 the sacred Thronus. 
 
 L. 8. KAINH, " one small pulvinar or Lectisternium." KXtv^ n 
 le^d Tij; Adrivoig, Paus. Arcad. ; and in his Phocica, speaking of a temple 
 of ^sculapius, kxIvx Ss Iv ^f|'V '-tlrui ToZ dyoiXf^oiToi;. " The devotion of 
 the Pagans inclined them to think that the gods ought not to want 
 any thing conducive to their ease and satisfaction." Seller, Antiq. of 
 Palmyra. 367. 
 
 The Sella of the Latins was likewise part of the furniture of a 
 temple. " De sella Caesaris bene tribuni." says Cicero, ad Att. 
 1. XV. Ep. 3. " The tribunes have done well in not suffering the 
 chair of CcEsar to be placed in the theatre." Among other honours 
 decreed to him before his death, it was ordered that a gilt chair 
 should be placed for him in the senate-house, and at the public games. 
 This chair resembled those on which the statues of the gods v/ere 
 placed. Dio and Suetonius, therefore, consider the honour intended 
 for him as one of a sacred kind. See Mongault's note on the passage 
 of Cicero. 
 
 L, 9. BA0PON, " a stool or small seat, with a back to it." See the 
 description of the Siip^og nToXe[A,xiKog in the Monum. Aduli. Chishull, 
 An. As. Kxl TO avcczXiTcv TO 07ri<r9iv tov 9povov, " the back of the chair." 
 'AvccKXtro] Si(p^oi, vocantur sellee, quse anaclinteria habent, aut pluteos 
 dorsuales quibus sedentium dorsum acclinari posset. * 
 
 L. 11. TnOK. 'ETr/o-Taro:/, in the oldest of the two Sigean inscrip- 
 tions, is explained in the more recent one by uVok^ijW^/c)/, a word 
 which occurs in no writer. The diminutive vTTOK^yiTri^l^iov is in Herod. 
 1. i. c. 26. The word means " a stand," on which a cup is placed ; 
 " basis," in Latin, f 
 
 L. 13. AMOinOAim, the EI in the original being written for I, as 
 in other monuments ; Ej7/ai/ yav, in the Tab. Herac. AIEITPE<1>EE, in 
 an antient inscription in Spon ; and ANAKTEI, on the Lydo-Phrygian 
 
 • See Salmas. in his Confut. anim. An. Cercoetii. de Pallio. 128. 
 t Chishull, An. As. 35.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 573 
 
 sepulchre. See this volume, p. 207. We have Tn^iTroXlu, in an in- 
 scription edited by Chishull, An. As. 159. Ik tuv \v tu> Tre^nroXiu t^j 
 9sov, " ex iis qui in sacro Deae circuitu degunt ;" and perhaps hii^pm' 
 was the place round or near the temple, where those in waiting on the 
 Deity resided. 'Ay.(pii!roXBvu U^ov A/of, " in Jovis templo ministro." 
 Herodotus. 
 
 L. 14. In some parts, the numeral seems to be omitted, as in this 
 line, after XAAKION ; and in line 9., after BA0PON. Among the gifts 
 noticed in the Attal. Mon. in Chishull, p. 142, is 'xji.^v.iov tbt ^xxontTov, 
 " vas sereum capacitate quatuor congiorum." 
 
 L. 1 6. Of the different offerings in the antient temples, none seem 
 to have been more numerous than tpiccXui. It is not easy to render 
 the word in English ; for sometimes it appears that the eK.7ru[/.oi was 
 borne itjwji a (piuXr;. Xenoph. Cyr. lib. i. c. 3. Here, therefore, it is 
 a salver, or waiter ; " Assiette," Larcher, Herod, lib. iii. The word, 
 when it occurs in the Septuagint, is translated in our version " Basin ;" 
 but the expression in the Apocalypse, c. xvi. gx^sare raV <^<aXa? sug- 
 gests a different form. 
 
 L. 18. Perhaps XAAKIONEIS 
 
 nOTHPION. So in the offering, or gifts, mentioned in 
 Chishull, Pseph. Att. 142. XBtcavvm I; Troryj^ioc, " pelvem ad pocula ;" 
 or AOTHPION. XcvTYi^toc etiam inter pocula recenset Epigenes apud 
 Athen. 1. xi. p. 486. * 
 
 L. 19. " One pitcher; one strainer." 
 
 XXXVII. 
 
 MTSTilNHrHTHPA 
 nOATZHAONnATPOS 
 E2©AOTHEINArOPOT 
 MHTPO20EPMinniAO2 
 rNZA0EOI21NEi:iE0EAIN 
 ct)PI2N 
 
 At Eleusis. f 
 
 • Note to Hcsych. in v. Aour. f Copied by Mr. Cockerell. L. 5. EN.
 
 574 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 Part of a metrical inscription in honour of Polyzelus, Hierophant, 
 son of Xeinagoras and Thermippis. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 1. " Mystagogi proprie dicebantur qui Mystas, hoc est, initiates 
 deducebant." * H^'-jrrif* tti^IttXoov, in Crinagoras, is thus explained by 
 Salmasius ; " •jrt^tyiyyiryiv^ qui per singula ducit memorabilia quaeque 
 ostendens et describens." In the marbles of Cyzicus, and in an in- 
 scription copied at Smyrna, there is mention of the MTITAPXHI, and 
 nATPOMTETHI. 
 
 L. 5. 6EAIN. Ceres and Proserpine. Uu^a. ru tu7v Sscilv li^o(pa,vT^. 
 Eunapius, in v. Max. Sometimes a different declension occurs ; /*£- 
 ytcXaTv deuTu (rTe(pcciiu[/.a. of Soph. CEd. C. 673, is quoted by Plutarch, 
 Sympos. iii. C. 1. ; [/.eyuXuv 6suv a; Tu 6eu, tcZt la-rt rug 6?aV, Tr,v 
 Avjf^r.T^cc y.cu t^v Ko^viv. Eust. ad II. 9. 723. See Blomfield ad Pers. 
 V. 186., App. ad Notas. 
 
 XXXVIII. 
 
 ArAQHITTXHI 
 AnOAAfiNI 
 nPOSTATHPm - - lOTPOPAmi 
 APTEI 
 
 From Athens, f 
 
 These three titles are found in Sophocles, Aristophanes, and De- 
 mosthenes : in the Electra of the first, v. 637. Oor/Ss tt^ oorarr'^/E ; in the 
 Plutus of the second, "AttoXXov KvroTfoVa/e ; in the Oration of the third, 
 TTflOf Majca^' 'AttoxXuvi 'A')uu7. u^c<rronr,^icc. " Tutelaris." See Blom- 
 field, Gloss, ad V. 445. Sep. C. Th. 
 
 XXXIX. 
 
 1 ArAQHITTXHI 
 
 HHATPISOTA 
 niANMAPKEAAAN 
 IEPA2AMENHN 
 
 ♦ Vales. Am. Mar. 28?. \ Copied by Mr. Cockerell.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. .575 
 
 5 TH2APTEMIA02 
 
 APXIEPEEANTH2 
 A2IA2NAi2NTf2NEN 
 SMTPNHAPilNO 
 ©ETINTPI2THS 
 10 nATPIAOSlEPEl 
 
 ANAIABI0TTH2 
 MHTP02Ti2N 
 0Ei2N 
 
 At Thyatira. * 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 4. Sometimes with a dative, as U^a<rdf4,evoi r^ ndr^iSi. Van Dale. 
 231. 
 
 L. 6. The distinction, according to Valesius, between ^A^x'^^sv?, the 
 Pontiff, Sacerdos ; and U^eu^, Flamen, was this ; the temples and 
 shrines of the province were under the care of the former ; the latter 
 attended only to the sacred rites and ceremonies belonging to the 
 worship of the deities in different towns. 
 
 L. 7. " The temples of Asia at Smyrna." Other inscriptions men- 
 tion the temples of Asia at Sardes ; one copied by Spon records the 
 
 L. 8. Female Agonothetee, ccyuvoSeTova-ai, are mentioned in Pau- 
 sanias. Eliac. 
 
 L. 11. AIABIOT. The Latin form, abridged, is FLPP, Flamen 
 Perpetuus. Vales, ad Euseb. 174. 
 
 XL. 
 
 MTPIXOSnOAYKPATIOSlAPHNTMO^AIOriTONOS 
 ANAPE22lX0PArEl2ANTE2NIKA2ANTE2AI0NY20I 
 ANE0EIKANTIMilNO2APXONTOSATAIONTOSKAEINIAO 
 AIAONTO2AAKI20ENIO2 
 
 At Orchomenus. f 
 
 This inscription relates to an offering or consecration of a tripod, by 
 
 • From Mr. Cockerell. f Copied by Mr. Cockerell and Col. Leake.
 
 576 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 Myrichus and Hieronymus, who had been Choregi, or " Furnishers 
 of a chorus *," and had been victors in a Dionysiac contest. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 2. The victory gained by the Choregus is expressed in various 
 ways ; -xp^V <^ iy.Tri(ra.To vUtiv' Av^uiv. Theoc. Epig. 12. Sometimes the 
 elHptical form occurs, vikuv 'Av^uv, or ttxiSuv. f In Spon, as in the 
 present instance, we read 0PAZTAAOZ ANEOHKEN XOPHmN 
 NIKHSaS ANAPASIN, and in Lysias, {'AttoX. Au^oS.) avS^dm x°^'^y'^^ 
 ng Aiouuciac eviKVjo-oc x.cci ccvriXaia-x (riv rr tou t^IttoSo^ uvaQetrei ir. $. where rct- 
 TToSof avxdsa-Bi explains dvidnKKv in our inscription. 
 
 XLI. 
 
 NO2SO2MYPMIAONO2KOYPANAIO2AN0ETOnAlAA 
 
 APTEMINETOABI2ITi2IAEnAPAnPOnTAi2I 
 *OIBI2IArYElTANAEXEM12NXAPINOYnEPlKPAT 
 
 AA*XASET5AM0YSKAflNA2ANASTE<fcETAI 
 AyVAASTOITIMA EniTOIAE 
 
 iiSA - - TAMEPAAA EOETSEBIAI 
 
 From HaUcarnassus. In the possession of the Earl of Guildford. 
 Copied by Demetrius Schinas. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 1. Aio; xo'^ijf'A^TE/ijJof. Eur. Iphig. Au. 1543. "a^ts[*i, ttui A/of. 
 1570. 
 
 L. 3. NEMriNXAPIN. Avovef^ova-K xx^irug. Mon. Att. Chishull. 
 142. ; at the end of the line, read KPATI. 
 
 L. 4. Act.(pvyig Kkmu. Meleager, in Anthol. 
 
 XLII. 
 
 IAP1NA0H.\AIHC 
 nANTI2NAI0i\TCI0N 
 EPrilN 
 
 Bentley, Phal. 42. f Blomfield, Pracf. acl Persas.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 577 
 
 HHEINHnATAPIiNrHME 
 AAB0T2AKPATEI 
 
 Ti\mAOTAn EAOEN 
 
 T02 
 EXI2AEKiVE02KAIEN 
 
 A - TOTS 
 XlAEmMEPAAHN 
 AM^IBAAilNOPO'tHN 
 
 Copied by Capt. Beaufort at Patara. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 1. 3. 'a5>ii/* — i^yuv. ' E^ycc S' A&Yivul'n yXuvxuTTiSt l(ro(px^i^oi. II. I. ; 
 also in Anthol. Palat. Appen. ii. 861. 
 
 s^yct, Adoivaioc tscttvx (rcaopgoa-vvocgt 
 L. 6. Probably AMnEAOENTOZ, as it is corrected in Beaufort's 
 Caramania. " Tmolus croco florentissimus et vitibus consitus di- 
 citur." Plin. H. N. v. 24. 
 
 L. 9. AETOIS. " I have glory also among the citizens of Patara, 
 having placed a large roof round the Odeum." 
 
 XLIII. 
 
 1 ANTIOTAPXONTO2Ari2NO0ETOTN 
 
 nonAIOTKOPNHAIOTTOYnonAIOTYIOTI 
 MAIOTTIiNTHSTl - i2 - 212THI - i2NnPi2 
 AnOTOrnOAEMOTIEPATETONTOSAETO 
 5 O2TOTSi2THPOi0EOMNH2TOTTOTnAPA 
 
 M0N0T0IAEENIKX2N 
 
 SAAniSTHS 
 ONH2lM02AEH12N02KOPf2NETS 
 KHPT3 
 10 *1AOKAHSN1KOIL\EOT20HBAIO2 
 
 ENKliMIXlIAOriKIi 
 n0ATHEN02KA<M20TIM0TAKPAI<I>IET2 
 
 EnX2NnOIHTH2 
 nPi2TOrENH2nP12TAPXOY0E2n]ET2 
 PA4'f>A02 
 
 In the church of Carditza, on the site of the antient Acraephia, in 
 Bceotia ; copied by Mr. Hawkins. 
 
 VOL. II. 4 E
 
 578 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 1. The first word is part of the Archon's name. The Agonotheta 
 was Publius Cornelius ; the third fine is imperfect in many letters ; in 
 the fourth we find that the priest was Soter Theomnestus, son of Para- 
 monus. A name before Soter requires correction. 
 
 L, 7. The form of this word varies; here, and in an inscription 
 copied by Dr. Clarke, it is o-aA-Tris-TijV ; in one at Orchomenus, of 
 antient date, transcribed by the same traveller, we read ZAAnirKTAr. 
 " Sincerior scriptura," says Dorville, " a-ctX-TrtyTrjg, cr\j^iyx.T7ji;, ut opti- 
 mus codex in Theoc. Idyll, viii. 9." Charit. p. 660. 
 
 L. 11. ENKXIM ; a singular expression : there is, however, mention 
 in an inscription found at Thebes, and published in Muratori, dcli., 
 of two persons who were distinguished, the one by his encomium on 
 the Emperor, the other by his praise of the Muses. Zua-if^og ey}cuf/.to- 
 y^ot.<pog ilg tov AuTOK^oiTo^cn ; and Publius Maximus wrote lyKUf^iov elg Mov- 
 <rag. AoyiKog is " eloquens." 
 
 XLIV. 
 
 1 nPO^'HTHSAAAAKAIK 
 
 lAP - iSMAPKOYOTAniOT 
 
 BIANOTAAMAT02KTPEIN 
 
 BIAN02<fcLVEA2AABi2N 
 5 TH2nATPIA0STHNnP0*HTE 
 
 ANAKAHPHTEIETHNONEIKO - EO 
 
 i2N2TE*ANH'tOP02rTMNA2lAPX02 
 
 nATEPXlNTENOTSNATAPXilNKAIKI - - 
 
 T12NnATP02<i>AAAMAMHTP02AE$ - 
 10 BIANH2rAA*TPA2APXIEPEI2NTIlN2E 
 
 BA2Ti2NnOIHSANTf2N0EI2PIA2Eni 
 
 MEPA2AEKAKAIMONOMAXlA2AnOT 
 
 MOY2EniHMEPA2AEKAATi2KAIAPXIEP 
 
 i2NTHSmNIA5nOIH2ANTX2NAEK - - E 
 15 2E KAIAHMO0OINIA METMN 
 
 02E noA 
 
 Found at leronda *, the site of the temple of the Didymean Apollo. 
 
 Copied by Mr. Whittington.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 579 
 
 It appears from a remark in the Ant. Asi. p. 93., that Chishull had 
 seen the present inscription, or received a copy of it from some 
 traveller ; for he quotes the beginning nPOOHTHSAMAKAIKPITAPXHS 
 OAABIANOEAABXlNnAPATHSnATPIAOZTHNnPOtDHTEIANANAKAHP 
 XITEI. It is fortunate that the original was sufficiently perfect to pre- 
 serve K^iTci^xrig • (see the first and second lines). The word is not 
 found in any other inscription, or in any writer. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 1. KPIT. KciT^i, " Conjector," ovBt^o^i^iTrn. See Blomfield ad 
 Pers. Gloss, v. 23. Phileas was not only " Propheta," expounder of 
 the oracle, but also head of the Oneirocritics, or dream interpreters, 
 
 of the Ti^CtTUV KXt SVVTriltUV Bpl^yVjTOil. 
 
 L. 3. The name Damas occurs in an inscription copied by 
 Dr. Askew, at Athens (Corsini, In. Att. p. x.) ; and on a marble of 
 Eleusis we have the genitive, APXIASAAMA. TOZ is written in this 
 form in other inscriptions, KTP is here the name Quirinus. 
 
 L. 8. nATEPEZ, " majores," as Patres in Latin. Perhaps KPI- 
 TAPxriN in this and the following line. In 1. 9. correct, OA. 
 
 L. 10. We have already seen a female in the high office of Af%*£f£(a 
 
 Tr^g AcKzg vctuv. ISO. 38. 
 
 L. 11. Qiu^lx. Omnis generis spectacula hac voce complectitur 
 Aristotel. Polit. vii. See Stoeber ad Th. Mag. 447. 
 L. 14, 15. I supply KAIE 
 
 niAOIEISKAIAHMOeOINIAIKAirYMN 
 
 AIIAPXIAS. oivoSoa-Ug xou yuf/.vuirnx^-x^ioe.g occurs in an inscription 
 copied by Capt. Beaufort in Asia Minor ; ett/Joo-*? is Congiarium. 
 
 VERSION. 
 Quirinus Flavianus Phileas having received from his country by lot 
 the office of Propheta and Critarcha at the age of twenty-seven, 
 (erected this). He was crown- bearer and gymnasiarch ; he sprung 
 
 from ancestors who were commanders of fleets and . His father, 
 
 Flavianus Damas, and his mother, Flaviana Glaphyra, were pontiffs 
 
 of the August! ; they represented shews for ten days, and gla- 
 
 4e 2
 
 580 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 diatorial exhibitions for twelve; they were pontiffs of Ionia, and gave 
 presents and feasts to the people, and gymnastic entertainments. 
 
 XLV. 
 
 1 TAP0*0P02APTEMI 
 
 AOSnr0IH2MA.\IAPOr 
 
 $EINAnATP02AETKI 
 
 OTMAAIOTSATOPNINOT 
 5 nP0<i>HT0TKAI2TE<I>A 
 
 NH<tOPOTKAITA2ENnAI 
 
 2ITETEAHK0T02AEI 
 
 T0TPriA2nA2A2MHTP02 
 
 lOTAIA^AOYKIASnAnnOT 
 10 AETKIOTMAAIOTPHFEI 
 
 NOTXEIAIAPXOTKAlSTE<i>A 
 
 NH<t>OPOTKAinAIAONOMOT 
 
 KAirTMNASlAPXOrnAN 
 
 TllNTiiNPTMNASmNnPO 
 15 rONI2NKAl2TNrENi2N2TE 
 
 <I)ANH*OPI2NKAinA2Al2 
 
 ENTEAESIAITOTPriAlS 
 
 THNnATPIAAKEKOSMHKO 
 
 TI2NTEAE2A2ATHNTAPO*0 
 20 PIANETAPESTilSTOISnOAEI 
 
 TAlSi22TnEPATTHSnA2H2 
 
 ETXAPl5T0mMH2AIA*H*l2 
 
 MATi2NAHI110HNAinPO<I>HTET 
 
 ONTO^MHTPOAHPOTTOTMHTPO 
 
 25 Ai2POT2TE<i>ANH*OPOTNTOSE 
 
 PHNAIOTTOTMEN " K 
 
 Found at the same place as the preceding. * 
 
 VERSION. 
 
 Malia Rufeina, Water-bearer of the Pythian Diana ; her father was 
 
 Lucius Malius Saturninus, expounder of the oracle, and crown-bearer, 
 
 and had filled every office in his country ; her mother was Julia 
 
 Lucia ; her grandfather was Lucius Malius Regeinus, military tribune, 
 
 Copied by Mr. Whittington and Mr. Cockerell.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 581 
 
 and crown-bearer, and superintendant of the education of the youth, 
 and head of all the gymnastic establishments ; her ancestors and 
 relations were crown-bearers, and adorned their country by the dis- 
 charge of all the important offices in the state ; she filled the place 
 of Water-bearer in a manner highly pleasing to her citizens ; so that, 
 in consequence, she was thought worthy of being honoured by public 
 decree with every mark of splendid distinction. Metrodorus, son of 
 Metrodorus, being at the time Propheta, and Eirenaeus, son of Menis- 
 cus, Stephanephorus. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 6. For the office of Stephanephorus, see Selden ad Mar. Arun. 
 ii. p. 165. 
 
 L. 6. In Mr. Whittington's copy, and in Mr. Cockerell's, we find 
 
 TAZENnAI 
 
 zi 
 
 read TAIENnATPI 
 
 AI 
 
 So in Reines. p. 508., raV f/.eyia-Tug ap%aj xul rag XotTrccg Xetrov^ylui; rri 
 "TraT^iSt eKT£XB(roiVTog. 
 
 L. 1 7. 'EvTiXea-TXToiy BVTf[/.oTot,Toi. Hesych. See also Blomfield ad 
 Agam. V. 104. 
 
 L. 25, 26. EIPHNAIOTTOTMENISKOY. In Mr. C's copy. 
 
 XLVI. 
 
 nP0*HTH2KAATAI02 
 AAMASTOESXETOAET 
 TEPANnP0*HTEIANETi2N 
 ilXOPAOHKONTAEXOSKAI 
 ANENEI22ATOTAnATPIAE0H 
 KAITOTiTEKOSMOYSE - 
 TmiEPillEniAfiAEKAHMEPAS 
 TEAE2 - - KAITO - - 
 
 From the same place as the preceding. Copied by Mr. Whittingfon,
 
 582 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L.2. Tn. " undertook the office of Propheta the second time." virea-Tri, 
 uTTEcr^sro. Hesych. VTrea-rv Tocvrriv t'^v XeiTov^yictv. Lysias COntra Philoc 
 
 L. 7. Perhaps we may supply the deficient parts of this inscription 
 from one found at Cyzicus, and preserved in Cayhis, Recueil, t. ii. 
 197. TAE lYNTEAOYSAI TOTL KOIMOTS HAPATH MHTPI TH 
 riAAKIANH, which the Abbe Belley translates " les vierges chargees de 
 I'entretien des ornemens de la mere Placiene ;" i. e. Cybele worshipped 
 at Placia. In our inscription, in the last line, we may read LTNETE- 
 AESEN, or EOETEAESEN, referring to KOIMOTZ. 
 
 XL VII. 
 
 OAHM02 
 AI0NY2IONA2LVIA0N 
 KAITITONMAPKE^UON 
 KAI0EOrENHNAIONT2IOT 
 
 In the wall of the castle at Brusa. Copied by JNIr. ^\^littington. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 4. Add this to the termination of substantives in HN j as 
 AHMOS0ENHN (Thucyd. 1. 4.) sniQENHN, Act. App. xviii. lEPOK- 
 AHN, HPAKAHN, Maitt. Ox. Marb. We also find in Chishull, 149. 
 
 MiViKpCCTOV, EVKfiXTOV. 
 
 XL VIII. 
 
 1 TKAHNI - A - XAOYTAMI - - SAN 
 
 Eni5TE<I>ANH*OPOTANTIOXOTA - EXIN 
 KAinAPEAPETSANTATHNnPIlTHNEHAr 
 NONOnPO*HTHSM02XmNH*AI5TmNO - 
 
 5 KAIHTAPO<t>OPOSTPT*I22AAnOAA12NIOYKAI - - 
 
 nEPITOMANTEIONnANTESKAIOITOIEPONK - - 
 K0TNTESKAI0inP02XiiP0IESTE<t>AN£)2 - 
 KAIETEBIHSAXEIKOMFPAnTHIEniXPYS - 
 AIKAI0SYNH5ENEKENKAIET5EBEIA2 - 
 
 At leronda. * 
 
 • Copied by Mr. Cockerel!.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 583 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 1. and 2. in Mr. Whittington's copy, stand thus : 
 
 o 
 
 AHNTA - N - - POT - AI - HAN - - 
 
 EmSTEcI>ANH<I)0P0TANT10X0TA 
 
 L. 3. Akerblad proposed EHAmNXlN, the meaning of which is not 
 very evident. Perhaps THNnPXlTONEHAMHNON. See Chandler, 
 
 pp. 83, 84. jcovXiuovTog Toiv ttdutov e^ocfArivov, 
 
 VERSION. 
 The expounder of the oracle, Moschio, son of Hephaestio ; and the 
 Water-bearer, Tryphosa *, daughter of ApoUonius, and all belonging 
 to the oracle, and those who inhabit the sacred precincts, and those of 
 the neighbouring territory, have crowned and honoured with a 
 
 painted and gilded statue , who was queestor (1. 1.), during the 
 
 time that Antiochus, son of , was crown-bearer, and was f assessor 
 
 for the first six months ; — on account of his justice and piety. 
 
 XLIX. 
 
 t 
 
 1 NETANIKHN 
 
 OTK - - IAAMO20ENE 
 PAnA2H2APETH2 
 ENPTNAI - INEINEKENnPOC 
 5 AEHAMENOTTOANAAilMA 
 
 TOrnPOS'MAESTATOYnATPOS 
 ATTH2TIBKi\ATETAAMOT 
 
 TOYSnAPTIATIKOTAPXIE % 
 
 TI2N2EBA2:TiiNKAlTi2N 
 10 ©EmNnPOrONilNAYTiiN 
 
 APlSTOnOAEITEYTOT 
 
 Found at Amyclas, on a large cippus, by the Earl of Aberdeen. 
 The upper part of the stone is broken. 
 
 • The name occurs in St. Paul's Ep. to Rom. xvi. 
 
 f The Paredri, in the Temple of Apollo, are mentioned in the Milesian inscriptions, 
 in Chishull, 1. 4. TafAieuovTMi' xai TagsSpeuovTajv. Akerblad's conjectures are, in L. 1. TA- 
 MIET2ANTA. L. 4. 2 at the end. L. 5. KAI 01. L. 6. KATOI. L. 7- AN at the end.
 
 584 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS, 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 2, 3. " Daughter of Demosthenes." L. 4. TTNAIHIN. L. 8. 
 APXIEPEXIE. 
 
 L. 5. The same expression occurs in three inscriptions given by 
 Muratori, and found at Sparta, ii. p. dxlvi. p. dxlviii. and i. p. dxlix. 
 We read in Dio, to tb dvolXuficx. to t^j cii^^yjg dvTog uvuXua-Biv VTreSB^xTO. 
 See Casaub. in Hist. A. S. p. 58. 
 
 L. 8. Damocratidas is called also " High Priest of Augustus, and 
 of his deified ancestors." APXIEPEXIE TOT ZEBAZTOY KAI TilN 
 GEiriN nPOrONXlN ATTOT. Murat. t. ii. DXLVI. 
 
 L. 11. T^? 'A^ia-TOTroXiTSiocg Tet[/.o(.g. Muratori, t. ii. DLIII. UoXtTBva-Ci- 
 [jLivov oc^ia-Toc. Maffei, Mus. Ver. xliii. 
 
 1 AYPHAIOSnirPHS 
 
 TOTTEAE2<I>OPOT 
 OATMnHNOSKA 
 TE2KETA2AEAYTi2KAI 
 5 TTNAIKIMOTATPHAIAGEO 
 
 AOTHAIOY 
 OATMnHNHKAI 
 TEKNOlSHMilNATPHAIOlS 
 
 enteimukaineikostpa 
 
 10 TIlKAIH<I>Ai:iTm - - 
 
 KAITHE20MENH 
 
 EKASTOTPTNAIKIKAl 
 
 T012EHAYT12 - TE 
 
 KNOISKAIErrONOlS 
 15 EHilNEIAPPENESFE 
 
 NX2NTAIKAITH 
 
 E20MENHEKA2T0T 
 
 rTNAIKlEIAE0H 
 
 AEIAIEENiiNTAIKAITilESO 
 20 MENilEKASTHSANAPIKAIEITI 
 
 NIENrPA<Wi2EniTPE*i2EIAETlS 
 
 TOAMH2HB1ASA20AIKAIKHAETSH 
 
 TINAAii2EITi2IEPi2TAT12*l2Ki2 
 
 XEKAITHOATPIAIMOTAAAAXE 
 25 OAEEAENHASAM<I>OTEPi2NTOTPI 
 
 T0NAABET12 - 
 
 Copied at Phineka, on the coast of Lycia, by Mr. Cockerel!. L. 13. 
 AYTXlN. Ak.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 535 
 
 VERSION. 
 
 I, Aurelius Pigres, a citizen of Olympus, son of , who was son 
 
 of Telesphorus, built this tomb for myself, and my wife Aurelia Theo- 
 dote, a citizen of Olympus, daughter of Dius ; and for our children, 
 Aurelius Entimus, Aur. Nicostratus, Aur. Hephaestio, and for the 
 future wife of each, and their children and descendants ; out of whom, 
 if they be sons, (I allow the use of the tomb) to the wife also of each 
 of them ; if they be daughters, to the husband also of each of them ; 
 and to whomsoever else I shall by writing give leave. But if any one 
 shall dare to violate it, and to place any other person in it, he shall 
 pay to the treasury of the emperor 5000 denarii, and to my country 
 another 5000 ; and let the man who convicts him receive the third 
 part of both the fines.* 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 L. 1. The name Pigres occurs in various epigrams in the Anthologia, 
 p. 431. ed. Steph. See also Xenophon's Anabasis, 1. 1. 
 
 L. 5. " EATTOE esse omnium personarum, tam in singular! quam 
 plurali numero viri docti ostenderunt." I\Iis. Ob. vol. iii. 142. 
 
 L. 8. So in the Actian inscription copied by Col. Leake, nonAION 
 AETKION AKIAIOTE. 
 
 L. 20. EKAITHI. 
 
 L. 22. Many of the inscriptions on the tombs of Asia Minor con- 
 clude with specifying the fine to be paid by those who violate them. 
 We find in Muratori some Iambic verses on the same subject. 
 XoiTTOv (pvXa.o'a'ov, f/,71 tiv ev^i^cryji; Tutpu, 
 
 (pi(rxu Ti Su(rr,g * B x.ui r-i? ttoXh * A. 
 " Take care then that you place no one in the sepulchre, and 
 undergo the punishment due to the lawless violator of the tomb ; 
 and pay to the treasury 2000 denarii, and to the city 1000." Dor. 
 Char. i. 105. 
 
 * The sigma, throughout the inscription, is in the form E, nnd the numeral in 1.25. is 
 X, with a horizontal line through the midcile. 
 VOL. II. 4 F
 
 586 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 The opening and robbing of tombs seem to have been practised 
 
 to a great extent in the third, fourth, and fifth centuries of the Christian 
 
 fera. Many epigrams in Greg. Naz. allude to this profanation ; and 
 
 it appears that the plunderers sold the ornaments. Tou; ^' kVeJoo-As 
 
 -rroXXocy.!, " often you sold them," says Gregory Naz. : addressing these 
 
 Tv[A,(^u(,\)yji. " / never," he observes elsewhere, " made a profit from 
 
 the tombs ; I swear by justice and the dead." ouS" ktto tu[/.(2&;v "E^yoe 
 
 eyiifcc' aU%v ofA.vvf/.i y.ix] ^9if/.svov;. He protests, in another place, against 
 
 the practice of some Christians who plundered them for the sake of 
 
 raising the Basilicse of the martyrs. See Murat. Anecd. Gr. The 
 
 most formidable denunciation against these Latrones Bustuarii, as 
 
 A. iMarcellinus calls them, is contained in an Athenian inscription, 
 
 copied by Muratori, from a MS. in the Eibliotheca Ambrosiana ; see 
 
 his Anec. Gr. p. 7. It begins, Trx^uotSuf^i rolg vMru-xPovion; hoii. The 
 
 person who pulls off any of the ornaments of the tomb, or opens it, 
 
 or moves any part of it, shall be exposed, OPIKHJ, KAI nTPETHI, 
 
 KAI TETAPTAim, KAI EAEOANTI. 
 
 L. 23. Je^uTXTov Ta.fx,uov is rendered " Fiscus Imperatoris," in the 
 INIis. Obs. vol. iv. 353. " Recte," says the editor ; " nam omnia turn 
 dicebantur Iscu et U^'JTKTce, quae spectabant ad personam principalem." 
 
 LI. 
 
 1 ATTOKPATaipKeCAPZHXawerCeBHCNlK . - 
 
 noAeoYxocMencTocAeiceBACTocA - . 
 
 <I>lAOTL\IHCAMeNHIATTUJNeTCeBIAaxeN 
 nACAICTAICnOAeCINKAieNTAYTHTHATTUJN 
 5 nOAie AUIPHCATOXPHMATIUNAOCIXTACTNA 
 
 rOMeNAeKTOTnPAKTIOY4>HMITOTeNTAT0A 
 BIK_\PATOTTa)\KA0OCIUJMeNlUNBAAAIC 
 TPAPiaXAILUXANAXeOTNTeTATIXHnPOC 
 CUJTHPIAXTHCATTHCnOAeUJCKATeTXAPiC 
 1 TOYXTe C AXe ©HKAMe XTO AETOTITAON 
 
 eiCMXHMOCTXOXAeiAIOXTHCAYTU)N 
 - BACIAIAC - 
 
 ANExeujGHAeonYProcoTTocnp - - 
 
 TONTOCTOTMerAAOnPSKOMS 
 
 15 AioreN — exoTC : cwb : exixAsiA -
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 587 
 
 The marble bearing this inscription originally came from the New 
 Chersonesus, and is now in the villa of the governor of the Crimea. 
 The copy given by Pallas, in the second volume of his Travels, 
 being incorrect, it was thought proper to insert that lately made by 
 by Mr. Whittington. 
 
 The first part of the inscription, which terminates in line 12, 
 commemorates a gift of money bv the Emperor Zeno, to the city. 
 The 6th and 7th lines require explanation. ATTXIN, in line 3. and 
 11., refers in an unusual manner to ZHNXIN in the singular number. 
 
 The three last lines bear a different date. " The tower was re- 
 paired under the of the noble Count Diogenes." The date and 
 
 year of the indiction follow. The termination of the second line 
 contains the abridged forms of MiyxXoTr^iTrou? Ko'^w^jTOf. Probably the 
 same Diogenes is mentioned in an inscription found at Megara, and 
 edited by Chandler, p. 79. It begins, "E^yov x,ca touto toO jt*£yaXo7rf e- 
 vea-TctTou Ko'^ttijTOf Atoyevovc tov rrctt^og 'A^x^Xolov. Diogenes was general 
 in the reign of Anastasius, in the year 494 of the Christian sera. 
 
 LII. 
 
 lAIEIKAinOAEIROINONOTSAITH - 02IA2 - 
 
 This line is part of an inscription cited by Boissonade, in his 
 illustration of the Actian marble, printed in his edition of Hol- 
 stein's letters. It is quoted from the Voyage de la Troade, t. iii. 
 p. 30., in which work it is translated " Iliensi et urbi participes sa- 
 crorum." THSOIIAZ. As "iTr^n-cc^xo^ immediately follows, Boissonade 
 objects to that version, and proposes " Populo Iliensi et urbi participi 
 sacrorum." KOINriNOYIAI, in the dative. 
 
 We ought to read QTIIAS; the mistakes of O and are frequent. 
 Paul Rycaut, (Greek Church, p. 76.) published sTriTsXea-uc-ccv to. r^ig ^coZ 
 fiucrrvi^M x.x\ rug ouTix^, instead of 6uc-<a<-. See Gregor. de Dialectis, 
 ed. Schaefer. p. 232. Little doubt will remain on the mind of the 
 reader respecting the proposed alteration, when he is informed that 
 in the vestibule of the Public library at Cambridge, there is a small 
 column brought from the plain of Troy, by Dr. Clarke, bearing an 
 
 4f 2
 
 588 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 inscription, (the letters of which are throughout perfect,) in honour of 
 Pytha. It begins, 
 
 AIKOINONOTSAITH20T2TAS 
 KAITOTAriiNOSKAlTHS 
 nANHITPEXlS 
 nT0AN. 
 
 LIII. 
 
 TA^nillOlANEQENTOIDIFITON^ODINGOQEN 
 
 Inscribed, in very antient characters, on a brass hehnet found in 
 the Alpheus, near Olympia, in 1795, by Mr. Morritt; and now in the 
 possession of Mr. P. Knight. 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 JNIr. Blonifield and JNIr. Dobree consider the line as expressing an 
 offering or dedication to Jupiter, TOIAIFI ; and I find from a remark 
 in Professor Person's hand-writing, in the possession of Dr. Clarke, 
 that he was of the same opinion. 
 
 ANE0EN is found in an epigram of Simonides, corrected by 
 Mr. Blomfield on the Persae, p. 208. * 
 
 According to this mode of interpretation, the line, if we suppose 
 the name at the beginning to be 'A^yETot, would be read in common 
 characters. 
 
 To]' Ap'yE7oi ccvc(jiv Tcci AjV tuv KooivSodBi: 
 
 The scholar will recollect, in an antient inscription copied by Pau- 
 
 sanias j", Tw Au T'A;^ajc* rdydx^ara, tuvt avi^Kocv^ where the first 
 
 words are parallel to TAPrEIOITniAII. 
 
 The Greeks said, ZeuV, Zeo?, Zei, Zea j: ; and AeuV, as well as zlug. 
 See Hesychius. Now ZsJ? was written antiently ZeFj §, as Armic, 
 AT^tFf, and jQao-iXEuV, i3«(r<X£Fff ; hence in the genitive, ZsYog or AsFcf, 
 
 * " In Simonid. ap. Plutarcli. t. ii. p. 870. ottK' uA^evto AutoI. Manifesto legendura, 
 OTt)l avi^sv AccTOi. 'Av'Sftrav. B." 
 
 f L. 5. 25. Not, as it is given in Facius, tm Aii' t kyj»w. 
 
 X Sex. Emp. adv. Math. i. 177. 
 
 § Heyne, Excur. iv. ad II. ly. p. 770.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS 5g9 
 
 from AeF? (AeuV), and AeFi, in the dative. But AbYi is AtYi.* "Aivtyf^x 
 was written "AvByf^cx. by the Tarentines f ; and another substitution of 
 the £ for t occurs in NsJ/iij for Niw/Si? | ; and in Latin, " E loco fuit I, 
 ut JNIenerva, et Magester, et Dijove." Quint, h i. c. 4. § 17. 
 
 It has been objected § to AIFI, as derived from All, " that in no 
 dialect or modification of the Greek tongue was the dioamma ever 
 employed in the flexion of any word ending in I£ ; the second case 
 having been progressively in words of this declension ISTOZ, ITOE, 
 lOE, EflS, HUE." We may propose another reading, TOIAIEI — 
 adding the lower horizontal line to what appears to be F. 
 
 It is well known that the Greeks formerly wrote EI for the long 
 I II ; but it is equally certain that they used £1 also for the short vowel. 
 That very antient inscription, copied by Colonel Leake in Asia 
 Minor, gives ANAKTEI; EIAIAN, for <7/-v, occurs in the Heraclean 
 Tables ; and the word All itself was written AIEI. AIEITPE<i>E£ is 
 found on a marble seen by Spon, of considerable antiquity, as AMOI- 
 ANAXI, OOEIAAEE, HAFNON, are sculptured on it; and Montfaucon 
 gives in his Diar. Ital. p. 422. AIEI mZTa ETXHN. See also 
 Muratori, Ins. XIII. H 
 
 LIV. 
 
 AFAGHITYXHI 
 ATTOKPATOPIKAlSAPIMAPKniATPHALQI 
 SEOYHPOIAAEHANAPiilEYSEBElE'i'TTXEI 
 2EBA2TOI SEBA:iTHI 
 
 MHTPIATTOY AHTTHT.QN 
 
 STPATOnEAilN H2KA1AIOMOT 
 
 AIAMONHSATTIINK MnANTOSATTONOIKOT 
 
 EniMHOTIOTONilP TEnAPXCYAlFTnTOT 
 
 * « TYAEYC, TYAEFOC, TYAEFIAHC, so AEYC, AEFOC, (A.Foj) AEFI 
 (AIFI)." From Mr. Blomfield. 
 
 f Hesych. in v. 
 
 % Eurysus, apud Clem. Alex. Strom, i. 321. See Maitt. de Dial., ed. Sturzii. 
 
 § See the communication respecting this inscription, in the Classical Journal, vol. i. 329. 
 
 11 EI pro omni 1 longa scribebant more antiquo Gra.>corum. Pris. 1. i. 561. 
 
 ^ We find the same permutation in tiie antient Latin : SVFEIS is SVIS in Oscan. 
 Lanzi.
 
 590 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 A dedication to the Emperor Alexander and his mother. Hamil- 
 ton's iEgyptiaca. p. 282. 
 
 Heliogabalus adopted his cousin, and declared him Caesar, at the 
 age of twelve years. The young prince, on that occasion, took 
 the names of Alexander and Severus. * On the death of Helio- 
 gabalus, A. C. 222. Alexander was proclaimed Emperor. His 
 mother was Mamaea, whom he honoured with the title of Augusta, 
 " mother of her country and of the armies."- This appellation occurs 
 in the inscription. 
 
 We are able to supply the deficient parts of it from another, pre- 
 served in Spon. Mis. Erud. Ant. 369. 
 
 rnEPSOTHPIASKAINIKHSKATAmNIOTAIAMONHS Ti2N KTPIi2N AYTOKPATOPilN 
 
 KAII0TAIA22EBA2TH2MHTP0S STPATOOEAliN KAI TOTSTMnANTOSAT 
 
 TliN'OIKOT. 
 
 In the third line, therefore, after XEBASTm insert KAI. L. 4. 
 read KAI AHTTHTHN " invincible armies." L. 5. TnEPNIKHI. 
 L. 6. KAIIT 
 
 LV. 
 
 BACIAEflCnTOAEMAIOT 
 
 ©EOTNEOTAIONTCOT 
 
 <I)IAOnATOPOCKAI*IAA 
 
 AEA*OYKAITf2NTEKNi2N 
 
 TOnPOCKTNHMAnAPATHKT 
 
 PIAIICIAIKAITOICCTNNAOIC0E 
 
 OIC 
 
 Fi'om the temple at Philae. See Hamilton's ^gyptiaca. p. 52. 
 
 The inscription records the homage of Ptolemy Auletes, before the 
 presiding Isis. This sovereign assumed the appellation of the 
 " Young Bacchus." The same title was claimed by Mithradates 
 Eupator. t 
 
 Herodian. 1. 5. f Dorville. Mis. Obs. vol. vii. 50.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 59I 
 
 REMARKS. 
 L. 2. NEOY. Ex diis gentium, alii seniores, juniores alii diceban- 
 
 tur : ot fxiv TTuXaioTE^oi, 01 Sb veure^o: tuv 6euv, ut scribit Menander Rhetor. * 
 L. 4. TEKNflN. The usual form employed by the Ptolemies ; 
 
 l^'^uf/,Bda Kcc) a\JTo\ kou to, Tsy.vx rifAUv. MaCC. iii. 7. 
 
 LVI. 
 
 nTOAEMAIOCHPAKAEIAOT 
 
 Eni2TPATHrOCTIlC©HBAIAOC 
 
 HA0ON 
 
 From the same temple. 
 
 I, Ptolemy, son of Heracleides, commander in chief of the Thebaid, 
 came (to worship Isis.) Ema-T^ar'/jj/oV, " summus Dux." Sic enim in- 
 terpretor : ut B'7r!z^x°^ summum prsefectum notat ; nam ett* respondet 
 Latinorum " super." Dorv. Mis. Ob. vol. vii. 50. 
 
 LVII. 
 
 rAIOCIOTATOCnAnEI CEnAPXOC 
 HKilKAinPOCKEKTNHKATHNKTPI 
 ANICINCTNIOTAmiTilirmiKAIY 
 nEP - AlilNOCTOYNEUTEPOTTIOTE 
 TIAEKAICTNTOIC*IAOICKAICTN 
 AnOAHMOICCTMMAXill 
 
 From the same temple. 
 
 " I, Caius Julius , chief prefect, am just arrived ; and have done 
 
 homage to the powerful or presiding Isis, with my son Julius, and in 
 behalf of my younger son Plato ; (I have worshipped also) with ray 
 friends, and with those who are travelling in this country, Symma- 
 chus," &c. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 2. HKH, used here in the Attic sense, uvtI tou d^riug rjx^ov. See 
 
 * Vales. Euseb. 25.
 
 592 ' GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 Budaius, p. 770. and p. 1083., who refers to the first line in the 
 Hecuba of Euripides. 
 
 L. 4. Perhaps nAATXlNOC. 
 
 LVIII. 
 
 5nTOAEMA..SnTOAEMAIOYKAIKAEOnATPAS0Ef2NEni(I>ANi2NK..ETXAPl2TI2N 
 2lAIS2AKAEOnATPAHTOTBA2IAEO2AAEA<I>H0EOI<t>IAOMHTOPE2 
 AONANTAmKAlTOI22TNNAOl20EOI2ATTOKPATOPE2KAl2APE2AYPH . . • IANT12 
 
 NEIXOS 
 ES2EBA2T0 ENEil^ANTOTHNSTEEA . • TPI AAETOY2TETAPTO 
 
 On the frize of the portico of a temple at Antasopolis. See Hamil- 
 ton's ^gjptiaca. p. 268. The imperfect parts may be supplied thus : 
 
 /3atriA€u2 nTOAEMAI02 nTOAEMAlOT KAI KAEOnATPAS OEflN Eni*ANnN Koi ETXAPISTflN 
 Kai /3a2IAI22A Ki\EOnATPA H TOT BA21AEn2 AAEA*H 0EOI *IA0MHT0PE2 -ri Trpov 
 AONANTAir. KAI T012 2TNNA0I2 0EO12 
 
 ATTOKPATOPE2KAI2APE2ATPH\ios italANTnNElNOS 
 ^invxetS. 2EBA2TOI oj'ENEn2ANTO THN 2TErA(TTPIAA ET0T2 TETAPTOu 
 
 The sovereigns recorded in the first inscription, as having raised or 
 consecrated the Pronaon to Antaeus, are Ptolemy and Cleopatra, 
 children of Ptolemy Epiphanes, and Cleopatra. 
 
 The latter inscription relates to the " Emperors, Aurelius Caesar, 
 
 and Antoninus Caesar, , Aiigusti, who repaired the roof in the 
 
 fourth year." 
 
 The person called Antoninus is better known by the name of 
 Lucius Verus. On the death of Antoninus Pius, M. Aurelius, who 
 succeeded him, made Lucius Verus partner in the empire, and added 
 to those two names that of Antoninus. After this name, either 
 ETTTXEIE or ETSEBEIS may be inserted, as in another inscription. 
 ^g. p. 282. 'AXi^uvSfu ETTTXEI ETIEBEI lEBAIXni. 
 
 " Repaired the roof" If ZTErASTPir be the word in this place, 
 it occurs in an unusual sense. 
 
 . In the first inscription, the Ptolemies are called Eni^ANEIE and 
 EYXAPIETOI. The proper meaning of the former word is stated in 
 a note of Valesius on Eusebius. 25. " Non intellexerunt interpretes 
 vim Graeci vocabuli ; neque enini eri^ai'^V, nobilissimum, hie significat,
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 593 
 
 neque illustrem. Prcesentem potius vertere debuerant. Sic enim 
 Latini vocant ; quoties de Diis loquuntur. " Per te prsesentem con- 
 spicLiumque Deum." Ovid. 1. 2. Trist. 
 
 ETXAP. " Libera], munificent," ex usu seculi Alexandrini. Heyne, 
 in the xviith. vol. of the Archgeol. 
 
 LIX. 
 
 On the temple of Ombos, on the cornice above one of the dooi-s, in 
 capital letters, nearly three inches in length. iEgyptiaca. p. 75. 
 
 TnEPBA5IAEf2SnTOAEMAlOTAIOTKAIBASIAl22H2KAEOnATPASTH2AAEA(I)H5 
 0EON<l>IAOMHTOPI2NKAlTI2NTOm2NTEKNi2NAPf2HPEI0Ei2IMErAAi2[ 
 AnO.V.mNIK.\ITOl22T\NAOlS0EOl2TON5HKONOIENTOIOMBITHITA2SOMENOinEZOI 
 KAIinnEI2KAI0IAAA0IETN0IA5ENEKEX EI2ATT0Y2 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 L. 1. YnEP. sometimes TnEP inTHPIAr, which the Latins express 
 in their inscriptions, Pro Salute. 
 
 lb. AIOT. The use of AIOE, in prose inscriptions, is very rare : it 
 occurs on a coin given by Cuper, ANTINOOS Aivor. 
 
 L. 2. aPUHPEI. The copies of Plutarch have a different ortho- 
 graphy, \\^o\Jr,^rj cv \\7T0XXuvx. de Is. et Os. Bouhier, in his correction 
 of the inscription at Apollinopolis parva, reads the dative, APXIHPIAI 
 ©EHI ; but the termination of the word in Mr. Hamilton's copy is 
 plainly PEL The Egyptian word Aruer is explained by Jablonski, 
 Pan. Aeg. 1. ii. p. 225. " virtus effectrix vel causalis." 
 
 L. 3. IHKOI. " Potest vel delubrum vel sacellum significare." 
 Jablonski, Pan. Aeg. 1. iv. 267. JNIr. H. says the temple is divided into 
 two separate Adyta ; the IHKOS here erected or consecrated by the 
 foot and horse soldiers, in the Ombite district, was one. 
 
 L. 3. TAIIOMENOI. TcTc ite "c<; ro:,- TeTxyniy^; vttc Tty.uvot. Mar. 
 Oxon. p. 57. 
 
 VOL. II. 4 G
 
 594 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 LX. 
 
 On the entablature of the temple at Cous or Apollonipolis parva. 
 iEgyptiaca. p. 178. 
 
 BA2lAl22AKAE0nATPAKAIBA2IAET2nT0AEMAI02©E0I*IA0MHT0PE2 
 ET2EBElSKAITEKNAAgior)PEI0EI2IMEri2Ti2IKAITOI22TNNAOl20EOI2 
 
 It is evident (as Zoega remarks) from Alexandrine coins, that the 
 Ptolemies erected temples, constructed on Egyptian and Greek 
 models. They raised obelisks also, inscribed with hieroglyphics ; and 
 the Zodiacs of Tentyra display, in the clearest manner, a mixture of 
 the mythology and arts of Greece with the religion and arts of antient 
 Egypt.* " The Greek inscriptions which are discovered on the 
 temples," says Mr. Hamilton, " induced us to conjecture that perhaps 
 many of these buildings may be attributed to the Ptolemies. One 
 of them had felt it his duty to bring back from his campaign in 
 Syria, the statues of gods and goddesses, of which the Persians had 
 plundered the temples of Egypt ; and we know that these sovereigns 
 long indulged a peculiar partiality for the religion of their subjects. 
 The Greek writers assure us that several of them built rich and 
 magnificent temples." pp. 19. 75. Zoega considers this inscription at 
 Apollinopolis parva as confirming the fact, of the erection by the 
 Ptolemies, of buildings constructed on the Egyptian model. It is, he 
 says, sculptured " in fronte templi, loco maxime conspicuo ; quare 
 ab ipsis conditoribus ibi collocatum reor ; non ut alia sunt hujusmodi, 
 ob aedificium ornamentis auctum, vel ad devotum numini animum 
 demonstrandum posteriiis adjectum." 543. 
 
 Some of the temples raised by the Ptolemies were inscribed with 
 hieroglyphical characters ; for when the Serapeum was destroyed, 
 they were found engraved f on the stones of it. A compliance with 
 
 * Visconti's letter to Larcher, on the Zodiacs of Tentyra. 
 
 f Ev fis TM vaw TOU 'S.aqcmiloi Xuofx-evou xat yuijivovjjisvov rjVgyjTO yqaft.fi.oiTa iyxs^agayfii.sva 
 ToTf Xi'^oif, TO xa^oufiEvcu legoyXuf/xo). Sozom. 1. vii, c. 15.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 595 
 
 the religious feelings of their subjects might lead them to adopt the 
 Egyptian style in their sacred buildings ; particularly as we find that 
 it was used by them on other occasions. The ship of extraordinary 
 magnitude, constructed by Ptolemy Philopator, was ornamented with 
 columns strictly Egyptian. " The capitals," according to the de- 
 scription of Callixenus *, " were rounded ; about that part called the 
 Calathus, there were no volutes, as in Greek buildings ; or rough 
 leaves (as those of the acanthus) ; but there were the calyces of the 
 river-lotus ; and the fruit of the budding palm." The lower part of 
 the capitals had a distribution of ornaments similar to the leaves 
 and fruit of the Egyptian bean, entwined, as it were, together. 
 
 LXI. 
 
 EUJPACEKAMBYCHCMETONAETOXAI0OX 
 
 BACTAEOSE OTEIKOXAEKMEMArMENON 
 
 <I>aNHAOAT\I0CHNnA.\AIM0IMEMNOX0C 
 
 TAnA0HrOOCAHXA4«EIAEKAMBTCHc 
 
 ANAPOPAA - XTXKAIACAPHTAa>0ErrMATA 
 
 ON0<I>TP0M - ITHCnPOC0EAEIyAXOHTYXHC. iEgyptiaca, p. I7.3. 
 
 This is one of the numerous inscriptions which are sculptured on 
 the legs and feet of the vocal statue of JNIemnon. It is well restored 
 in the following manner in the Anthologia Palatina. The metrical 
 inaccuracies prove it to be of late date. 
 
 "Ed^oivcTB Kx[/,(3u iri^? fj.s roves tov xl^ov 
 IcccTihtuq i'xoxj stx.01/ e.-K.fx.^iA.oc'y^ivcv. 
 
 <buvyj S' O^UpfyCOi T/V TTu'ko'A jltCl MifAVOVOC 
 
 Tcc 7ru% you<ra,, v^-j uObIXb Kccu(3uirrig' 
 avx^Qpx Sij vZv KOi(ru(pri roi ^^syuarcc 
 6Xo(pv^of*cci, Ti/jg tt^oVSe Xeii^avcv rv^r,;, 
 
 * Athen. 1. v. 293. ed. Schweig. sio-i 0' u'jtwv ul xsfaXsii raJ (rj^r,aaT» Tioii.spfi;. — 7:=q\ tov 
 ■^'gocayogsi/ojoievov xaXaSov, 6u^ iXtXic, xa5«5reg sVi tmv E^vArjvixco'/, xai ^•jKka. rgxysa TTsgiKEiTur 
 XcuTaJv Be ■KOTay.iaiv xaXuxEj xai ^oivixcuv agTi/3Xa<rTa;v xu^ttoc. — xifiuigltev avSsa-t xa) 0uWci: 
 diTuvs) xaTaT:eTrX=yfj.ivotc. The round capital is found among architectural remains in 
 Egypt, presenting the form of a bulb. The Lotus here mentioned is the Nymphasa Lotus ; 
 the Egyptian bean is the Nymphaea Nelumbo. 
 
 4 G 2
 
 596 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 The statue is supposed to address the spectator. " Camby ses * broke 
 this stone which you see before you, representing the image of the 
 Eastern king f (Memnon)." 'Exixef^olx^^i ^ly-ova. (expressam esse imagi- 
 nem) occurs in Lucian ; but here the word is used in an active sense, as 
 in Nicander. Ther. yei/e^\ iK^oia-aiToa 'l-nTvov. \ It has been supposed by 
 some, that the noise which issued from the vocal statue of Memnon 
 was occasioned by an artifice of the priests in Egypt, who intended, 
 by a pretended miracle, to oppose the progress of Christianity in that 
 country. But we learn from this inscription, that sounds also pro- 
 ceeded from it at the time when Camby ses invaded Egypt. Accord- 
 ing to de Pauw, subterraneous grottoes, or galleries, passed probably 
 under the statue ; and to make Memnon resound, nothing more 
 was necessary than to strike the rock with an instrument of metal ; 
 when the passages could no longer be preserved, the phaenomenon 
 ceased. A different explanation has been recently proposed ; see 
 De Humboldt's Travels, vol. iv. p. 560. 
 
 The accounts of those who record their visit to the statue asree in 
 saying, that the noise was heard early in the morning ; this is stated 
 by Pausanias, Pliny, and Strabo. The latter suspected that the sounds 
 were made by some one near the statue. In the following in- 
 scriptions, which are copied by Mr. Hamilton, from the legs and feet 
 of the figure, the early part of the morning is mentioned by all the 
 writers. 
 
 1 CAMILLUS HORA PRIMA SEMIS AUDIVI MEMNONEM 
 
 2 AUDIT MEMNONEM HORA PR. 
 
 3 AUDIVI MEMNONEM ANTE SECU HORAM 
 
 kaataiocemiaioc 
 
 apabapxhckaieoictpath 
 
 rocghbaiaochkotca 
 
 ANAnAEi2NUJPACr 
 KATAnAEHNUJPACB 
 
 * Ajexoit/e, Paus. 1. i., speaking of this statue. f WiLm Ms/x,vov«. Philos. V. A. vi. 
 
 \ Ex* ixTu;r5(. Schol.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 597 
 
 LXIL 
 
 On a small votive helmet, found near Olympia, and now in the 
 possession of Colonel Leake. 
 
 This inscription records the name of the workman ; Kuo? [*' Ittoh. 
 The antient offerings are frequently represented as addressing 
 themselves to the spectators. The Sigean stone furnishes us with a 
 parallel form, MEnOEIIEN, " yEsop made me ;" on the tripod of 
 great antiquity, seen by Herodotus at Thebes (1. 5.) was written, 
 Afi<piT^ijuv jtt' ccveGriKB ; and on the cornucopia, dedicated by Miltiades, 
 Z»;i/j // cLyxXfjL d/eSyjxocv. Paus. 1. vi. c. 8. See Chishull, An. As. S3. 
 
 The A is here used instead of E, according to a well-known form ; 
 as vxu^tov for viu^iov, in the Corcyrean inscription. JMus. Ver. xxxii. ; 
 and the iEolo-.Doric ttoew is retained. The Latins, whose language was 
 derived from the Greek, preserved the same mode of writing the word 
 in " poeta." The tense Ivom is also a common tense, applied to 
 works of art. 
 
 The three last letters are doubtful. 
 
 LXIII. 
 
 TONA0ENEONA0AONEMI 
 
 Inscription on a vase found at Athens by Mr. Burgon. The form 
 of the letters is very antient, and they are written from right to left. * 
 
 Two examples, and of considerable antiquity, may be cited to show 
 that the Greeks wrote E for AI ; the well-known inscription which re- 
 cords the names of some who died in the beginning of the Pelopon- 
 
 * See Clarke's Travels, vol. vii. Preface ; where this inscription is given according to 
 a tac-simile, accompanied with some remarks by Mr. Knight and Mr. Blomfield.
 
 598 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 nesian war, gives AAKMEONIAEZ ; and the Sandwich marble has 
 AAKMEHNIAHI. Mr. Kidd (Dawes, Mis. Crit. p. 121.) cites o voc-uv 
 
 Se iJ,a.viKug AXtcf^suv i(nci^«.ro^ from Timocles. in Athen. vi. 223. 
 
 LXIV. 
 
 On a marble forming part of the Elgin collection, and now in the 
 British Museum, are three Orchomenian inscriptions. They are 
 printed in the first volume of this work, and in the Travels of 
 Dr. Clarke, to whom Mr. Dobree has lately communicated a valu- 
 able illustration of one of them. * It is here inserted with their 
 permission. 
 
 APXONTO2ENEPXOMENT0TNAPXi2MEI 
 
 NOSAAAAKOxMENIOENAEFEAATIHME 
 
 NOITAOAPXEAAiiMEIN02nPATi20MO 
 
 AOrAETBilATFEAATipYKHTHnOAIEP 
 5 XOMENmNEniAEIKEKOMl2THETBi2 
 
 AOSnAPTASnOAIOSTOAANEIONAnAN 
 
 KATTASOMOAOriA2TA2TE0EI2A2©T 
 • N APX.QAPXON'TOSMEINOSGE I AO YQIO 
 
 KHOTTO*EIi\ETHAYTTETlOY0ENnAPTAN 
 10 nOAINAAAAnEXmANTAnEPinANTOS 
 
 KHAnO AE AOAN OITHnOAITYEXOXTES 
 
 TA50M0A0nA2ElMENn0TIAEA0:ME 
 
 NONXPONONETB12ATEniNOMIA5FETIA 
 
 nETTAPAB0TE22l20TNinnT2AIAKA 
 15 TlHSFlKATinP0BATT5S0TXHrT5XEl 
 
 AlHSAPXITOXPONilOENIAYTO^OMETA 
 
 0TNAPXONAPXOXTAEPXOMENlT5AnO 
 
 rPA4>ES0HAEETBI2AONKATENIATTOX 
 
 EKASTONnAPTONTAMIANKHTONXOiMli 
 20 NAXTATEKATM ATATflXnPOBATP.X KH 
 
 TANKFnXKHTAXBOYilNKHTAXinnoxK 
 
 KATINAA2AMAmN0IKHTOnAEI0O2ME 
 
 AnOFPA*E20i2AEnAIOXAT£)XrErPAM 
 
 MEXi2NEXTH20TFXi2PEI2IHAEKATI2 
 
 * Mr. Dobree was informed by one of the gentlemen of the British Museum that in the 
 third line of the first inscription, the uord appeared to be XP102. This, according to the 
 Boeotian dialect, is XPE02. It is followed by AirsSccxa.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 599 
 
 25 * * HT0ENN0MI0NETBf2A0N0*EIA 
 
 * • AI5Ti2NEPXOMENmNAPrOTPm 
 
 * * nETTAPAKOXTAETBI2ATKA0EKAS 
 
 * * NIAYT0NKHT0K0N*EPETi2APA 
 
 * * TA2MNA2EKA2TA2KATAMEINA 
 SO * * T0NKHEMnPAKT05E5T0ETB 
 
 TONEPXOMENION 
 
 * 
 
 The latter part of the inscription JNIr. Dobree would read in this 
 manner : — 
 
 21 KH or KH, H 
 
 22 MEI 
 
 25 E^[^ P ATTHTOENNOMIONETBfi,AONO<I>EI A 
 
 26 ETOAnOAISTONEPXOMEXIONAPrOYPm 
 
 27 MNA2nETTAPAKONTAEYBX2ATKA0EKA2 
 
 28 T0NENIATT0NKHT0K0N<I>EPET12APAX 
 
 29 MAS TA5MNA2EKASTA2KATAMEINA 
 
 30 EKASTONKHEMnPAKT05E2Ti2ETBiL\T 
 
 31 KATTilSTilNEPXOMENmNNOMnS. 
 
 The whole of the inscription, according to his interpretation, is to 
 be read in the common language, thus : — 
 
 "Ap^OVTOg £1/ O^^0f/,BVU 0UVOS^%OU, fl'/j 
 
 vog 'AXocX)co[jLiviov, ev ob 'EXaTEioc Ms 
 
 VOITOV Ad^bXcxOV, f/,11V0g TTQUTOU' O[/.0 
 
 Xoytoc 'Ev(3ovXu EXocTeixtu x.oii rr, ttoXu 'Op 
 "XPi^Bviuv. 'ETT£iS^ KeKofii(rTxi'Eu(2ov 
 Xo? -TTctcci TVjq TToXeeai to cavBiov aiTocv 
 KUToi Tug ofjLoXoylug rctg TeQsKrug Qu 
 vd.p'xpM 'Ap')^ovTog jjcrjvcg QbiXouQicj, 
 
 KCe.1 OUJC 0(pBlXBTCCI dVTU BTt OVOBV TTd^aC T^V 
 
 -TToXti/, ocXX' a7r£%e< Travra tte^* TravTog, 
 
 xui dTro^BSuxixa-i rr ffoX£< oi e%oi/t£{- 
 
 Tccg ofjLoXoyiocg' Eivoa TTpog otoofJLB- 
 
 vov "xpovov EujGouXw B7nvo[/,nzg^ irr, 
 
 TBTToc^a, tSova'i (ruv I'vTToig oirijco 
 
 (riaig tiKO<ri, TT^otcaTOig (rCu cct^i x,' 
 
 Xioiig, "Ao^et rod ^oovov BviuvTog fura
 
 600 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 ©uvocD'^i^ov kpypyTo, Opyp^ivnaq, Atto 
 y^olcp£(rd(xt ie"Eu(2ouXov k»t eviacuT&v 
 
 eKaiCTTOU TTXpa TCV TUfUlXV KXl TOV VOfiU 
 VrjV TO. T£ KOCVfXOlTCi TUV 7rpo(3oiTUV Ka.i 
 
 TUV oayuiv Koci tcov fdouv Kxt tuv ittttuv, kxv 
 Ttvcc ocCYif^a, oxTi, K,M TO TrXrjdoi' fJLri 
 ocxoypec(pBcr9u Ss ttXsIovx tuv ysyooifx. 
 uBvuv vj Tr crvy)(upyicii, hai/ ot ti; 
 Sf^-rroccTT^ TO ivvofjLtov Eul2ouXov, opeiX 
 STu r, TToXi; TUV Op^of^eviuv a^^yu^iov 
 
 fjiVOC; TETTapolnOVTX EufScuXu Kx6 SKCitT 
 TOV eVIXVTOV' Kul TOKOV (pe^STU o^x^- 
 
 fix^ - "! - " ■'"^f jitva? lx.cl(rTvii; Kxrx f^rjvx 
 
 SKXa-TOV, KXi El^TT^XXTOg SCTTU EUfCOUXu 
 XXTX TOUf TUV (Jp')f^O[/,iViUV VOjA.O\jg. 
 
 MR. DOBREE'S NOTES. 
 
 L. 13. 1 put a comma after Ivivofiixg. " Let Eubulus have a right 
 of pasturage for a given time; that is to say, the right of grazing, for 
 four years, 220 head of cattle, inchiding horses, and 1000 sheep, in- 
 ckiding goats ;" i. e. a horse to reckon as an ox, and a goat as a 
 sheep. 
 
 L. 19. Nojtta'i'i;? is the contractor who farms the pubhc pasture-land. 
 Thus, TiXuvriq, l^yuvrj;, in Chandler's Marm. Ox. xlix. Eubulus enters 
 his cattle at the offices of the treasurer and of the conti'actor, that 
 their accounts may check each othei'. 
 
 L. 20. Kxvf^x, or B-yKuuua, is a burnt-in mark. See Scaliger on 
 Varro de L. L. p. 107. ed. 1619., and the notes on Hesychius, vv. 
 xBTTTTXTlxi et T^vtriTTTnov. Eubulus Is to rcgistcr, 1. the marks of his 
 cattle, horses, &c. specifying any that may be unmarked ; 2. the 
 number of each sort. 
 
 L. 22. Iuv9i is for ua-i [euxt), I being put for E, as in AmNOGETI- 
 ONTOI and AOKIEI, in other Orchomenian inscriptions, and IOSai
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 601 
 
 (IXIIAI) for ovcrri?, in one at Thebes, which Pococke has given with 
 his characteristic inaccuracy, p. 50. 
 
 The following list of examples showing the nature of the dialect in 
 use among the people of Boeotia may be here added to Mr. Dobree's 
 notes. I have selected them from various inscriptions found in that 
 country. 
 
 I for EI, as in OAIONA ; T for XI *, in ETBHAY ; H for AI, in KH ; 
 AIAKATIOE for AaicoV^of, presents A for O, according to the Dorian use 
 of TOA for TOO, and T f for E. EI occurs for H in MEINA, the ac- 
 cusative of the ^olic MEIZ, and also for AI in an inscription copied 
 by Dr. Clarke at Orchomenus, where we read AOaneioi, eEIBEIOS • 
 I for E in nOAIOI ; T for OI X in TY (to)), E for O in the name of the 
 town of Orchomenus, which substitution is also found on their money ; 
 and A for E in ArxiAPOE ; OT § for T in SOYN. || In the words 
 HPYI, (aisI in the common dialect) inNGI, and AnOAEAOANGI, the 
 forms are singular. In the last there are no less than four changes 
 arising from the dialect: 1. in the use of for T. Lanzi quotes 
 ATAGAI GYXAI ; a lamp in Passeri bears the words AP0EM. lEPOZ • 
 and the name of the people of Crete, U^uTrvTvioi, is written on a coin 
 in Vaillant's collection, lEPAOYGNiriN f , which word is also given by 
 Gruter in his Inscriptions with €). 2. In the termination, uvti for «o-/, 
 as in la-TuxocvTi, 'ff'epijKocvTi, TTBTroitjKam. 3. In the use of O for Xl. ** 4. In 
 the omission of K. ^f 
 
 • In Sappho, xEX">"i foi- xe'^""'!' Greg, de Dial. ed. Schaef. 586. 
 
 f UoTiiav, rioo-siSuJv, Epichar. in Athen. 1. vii. 
 
 J "E^i, ifio'i. Apoll. Dyscolus, in Maitt. 555. 
 
 § 'lagof and tkjjlvuv. See Greg de Dinl. 
 
 II lUud OT pro T, in mullis scriptum est. Valck. Theoc. 279. 
 
 f Tlie Tuscans, who had many ^olisms in their language, said Thelephus for Te- 
 lephus, and Atresthe for Adrastus. Lanzi, i. 247. 255. 
 
 •* The Dorians said OTEIAH. Greg, de Dial. 618.' 
 
 ff The iEolians wrote iremiiio;. Maittaire de D. 162. TeSvijo'rof occurs in Horn. 11. 
 g. iS5.; ^s^uaia-i for /Ss/Sjjjcairi. II. /3. 134. In Herodotus the x is omitted, as in htmi;, 
 L. 3. See Maitt. 161. 
 
 VOL. II. 4 H
 
 g02 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 OASIKAEIN and AAMOTE AEIN, in the first of the three inscriptions, 
 are the accusatives of Pasicles and Damoteles * ; nETTAPA is the 
 origin of the Oscan, petorritum, " a four-wheeled carriage." f En AXIN 
 lias been lately well explained by Boissonade, in his notes on Hero- 
 dian ; the word is found in an inscription copied at Orchomenus by 
 Col. Leake and jMr. Cockerell ; and in the same we read TIQTXAN 
 for TTXAN. The digamma occurs in various words ; in FAPNUN, 
 FEAATIH, FIK.iTI, FTKIAL ; and on an Orchomenian marble seen by 
 Dr. Clarke J, ATAAFTAOI, KOMAFTAOI. 
 
 LXV. 
 
 basiaehs ainonos - 
 
 " I saw at Athens, in the possession of Mr. Fauvel, an inscription 
 brought from the island of Samothrace, consisting only of these words. 
 They were inscribed on a cippus, on which was sculptured the 
 entrance of a temple ; and on each side the representation of a lighted 
 torch, beino- emblematical of the mysteries for which that island was 
 celebrated. It would have been difficult to identity the name of this 
 monarch, had it not been explained by Livy, who states (lib. xlv. 
 c. 5.) that the chief magistrates of Samothrace were styled kings, al- 
 though it does appear to have ever been an independent state. This 
 is an additional confirmation of the close connection in early times 
 of the offices of chief priest and king, the titles of which were, in truth, 
 nearly synonymous. Thus the king archon, at Athens, continued 
 to preside over sacrifices, and to regulate religious ceremonies. Sec. 
 The word which appears strictly to signify the kingly office, and 
 which did not bear the evil interpretation given to it in more recent 
 times, is TTPANNOI." — Extracts from Lord Aberdeen's Journal, 
 
 * " In inscriptionibussaepe invenias'Eu(7-£|3>;ti aliaque hujuscommatis." Th. Ma^. See 
 the note, p. 424. MsvsxXJjv, AioxXi-v, are given in the Oxford Mar. ed. Maittaire. Ind. 
 V. contracta. 
 
 f Menage, in Jur. Civ. Amaen. p. "}., and Hemster. in Polluc 1. ii. 1059. 
 
 X Travels, vol. vii. p. 200.
 
 GREEK INSCRIPTIONS. QQ^j^ 
 
 LXVI. 
 
 It appears very probable, from the recent discoveries of M. Ca- 
 viglia in Egypt, that a temple once stood on the platform in tiont of 
 the Sphinx, and centrally between the paws. The large block of 
 granite, 1 4 feet high, and two tablets of calcareons stone, which were 
 tbund there, formed part of it. The inscription sculptured on the 
 second digit of one of the paws, describes the Sphinx, (according to 
 the proposed reading of Dr. Young,) as " the attendant or minister 
 of Latona." T>? Si diu. ArjToi Tr^da-TroXov etyuoTccTi^v. We find that a 
 temple, sacred to this goddess, stood in a district of Memphis. * 
 
 On the granite block were represented two Spkin.tes on pedestals. 
 It appears, therefore, that this symbolical figure was connected with 
 the worship of Latona, as it was with that of her daughter. " Utrum- 
 que Dianas latus duas Sphinges muniunt." f Kut Jablonski, in his 
 chapter on Latona, or Buto, does not mention the Sphinx. 
 
 The skilful restoration of the inscription, by Dr. Young, may be 
 seen in the Quarterly Review, vol. xix. p. 412. In the copy sent from 
 Egypt, thefirstlineiscoNAeMAceniArroNreTiANoiONieNeoNTec, 
 which Dr. Young reads, Soi/ Js/Aaj sx.Tra.'yXov nZ^uv ko\ dilv 'iovTs^. The 
 reader will recollect that the three last words terminate a line in 
 Homer ; and r(Zloi.v Sbo) occurs in an epigram in the Anthol. ed. 
 Steph. 315. 
 
 In line 5. the copy presents eCCANCl OPACGAI, which Dr. Young 
 reads fitVai/ ila-o^ucca-dui. In an inscription in Falconer (In, Athlet. 
 p. 149.) we find Srjy.iv o^ua-Sxt. 
 
 * Arjov; TTo'Xij, fioTga Mejit^iia;, xa5' jjv ai Ilt^gajXilfr xai AjjTou: ijjj'v. Steph. Bvz. 
 t Claudius Menetreius de Diana Epliesi Statua Symbolica. 
 
 Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode, 
 Printers-Street, London.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 iNscRiPTioNs relating to the incorporated bodies of Actors ayid 
 Musicians established on the Coast of Ionia and the Hellespont, 
 under the protection of the Attali. 
 
 Xhe Marble containing these inscriptions was found at Sedgikeui, 
 a village situate a short distance to the south of Smyrna ; it was 
 brought to England in the year 1732, and has been lately presented 
 to the University of Cambridge. A copy was taken by Maittaire, 
 and printed at the end of his edition of the Arundel marbles. They 
 are now published according to an accurate transcript made from the 
 original stone by Dr. E. D. Clarke, (to whom this valuable relic was 
 presented for the University by his friend Mr. Harvey, of Jesus 
 College) in the types which he invented to imitate the lithography of 
 the antient Greeks. 
 
 That the reader may understand more readily the general purport 
 of them, we may observe, that Eumenes mentioned in line 3, was 
 king of Pergamus, and died 158 b. c. He was deified by his brother 
 Attalus : hence the inscription mentions the 'lepem, who officiated at 
 the sacred ceremonies and festivals celebrated in honour of him ; 
 that, the persons called AiowcriaKol re-xylTai engaged for certain 
 sums* to represent dramatic and musical f entertainments of various 
 kinds: that they answered, according to Plutarch,;]; to the Latin 
 Histriones ; that, during the reigns of Eumenes and Attalus they 
 received great protection, being established at Lebedus ; § and formed 
 themselves into different bodies or companies, which assumed the fol- 
 
 * Monlfaucon Di. It. 412, publishes a Corcyrean inscription, in which "Aristomenes gives 
 to the city of Corcyra 60 mina; of Corinthian money for the purpose of hiring the players; 
 
 «5k Tav Twj/ TCyvnav fXi<jQuicyiv, 
 
 t Ita vocantur actores cantoresque scenici. Wytt. in Plut. Anim. vol. I. 619. 
 
 X Aio Ti Tov<; wep) Toy ^ioyvcon Tfi^nVas 'laTpiuva': o'l PufxaToi KuXovai; Id Rom. Qu. 289. 
 
 § Strabo. lib. xiv. p. 922. 
 
 *A
 
 2 APPENDIX. 
 
 lowing appellations : to koivou twv Trepl Aiowo'ou rex^'^'^'^^' noivov 
 Twv ATTaXiarrcov koivou ri}^ Ex'^vov l-v/x/dopia^. Their Scenic exhi- 
 bitions were not only performed in Ionia, and thence, as far as the 
 Hellespont ; but also in Greece, at Nemea, and in the Isthmus of 
 Corinth. Many individuals bequeathed money to these Societies, and 
 shewed to them various acts of liberality and kindness ; in return, 
 they were honoured by a commemoration of thanks registered on 
 marble, as in the inscriptions before us, and in the Attalic monuments 
 published by Chishull. It appears also, that these Societies had their 
 own Priests. 
 
 Crato son of Zotichus is the person commended in these decrees ; 
 he is honoured by a statue ; and by being allowed the privilege of 
 wearing a crown for life ; and after his death, (which took place at 
 Pergamus,) particular days were in memory of him, called by his 
 name.* 
 
 EPIIEPEnZSATYPOYKAIArnNOOETOYKAi 
 
 I EPEJIZBAZI AEI2ZEYM ENOYN I KOTEAOYS. 
 
 EAOEENTXllKOINfUITnNPEPITONAIONYZONTEXN: 
 
 TnNTnNEPIXlNIAZKAIEAAHZPONTOYKAITllNnEr: 
 
 TONKAOHrEMONAAIONYZONEPEIAHKPATnNinTIXOr 
 
 AYAHTHZEYEPrETHSENTETIll P POTEPON XPONfilTH ? ; 
 
 PAZANZPOYAHNKAIPPONOIANEIXENTI2NKOINEIZYM<f=£ 
 
 PONTnNTEIZYNOAniKAITIMHOEIZAZinznNEYEPrETH 
 
 KENYPEPTIOETAITEIEYNOIAIKAI<t>IAOTIMIAITEIEIZTOYZ 
 
 TEXNITAZPANTAPPATTnNTAZYM<l>EPONTAAEAOXOAI 
 
 TniKOINniTnNPEPITONAIONYZONTEXNITi2NEPAINEZAI 
 
 MENKPATilNAinXIXOYAYAHTHNEYEPrETHNEPITIllTHN 
 
 AYTHNEXEINAIEIPPOAIPEZINTHZEYEPrEZIAZTHZElZ 
 
 APANTAZTOYZTEXNITAZPPOZAOYNAIAEAYTniPPOZ 
 
 TAIZPPOYPAPXOYZAIZTIMAIZANAKHPYZINTEZTE<l>A 
 
 NOYTOYEKTOYNOMOYHMPOIHZETAIAIEIENTniOEATPmO 
 
 EKAZTOTEriNOMENOZArnNOOETHZKAIIEPEYZBAZIAEIlZ 
 
 EYMENOYENTHIBAZIAEnZEYMENOYHMEPAIOTANHTEPOMPI: 
 
 AIEAOHIKAIAIZTE<t>ANnZEIZZYNTEAnNTAIOMOinZAE 
 
 KAIPAPATONPOTONriNEZOnTHIAYTHIHMEPAIMETATAZ 
 
 'Ettwi/J/jioi/? tjnipaf KpaT(ui/o<r. Cllishull, p. 142.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ZrONAAZYrOTnNAPXONTnNHANArrEAIATOYZTE<l>ANOY 
 
 PAPATIOEZOAIAEKAIENTAIZOEAIZKAIENTAIZPOMPAIZPA 
 
 PATONANAPIANTATONKPATHNOZTONENTniOEATPniTPlPO 
 
 AATEKAIOYMIATHPIONKAITHZEPIOYMIAZEnZTHNEPIMEAEI 
 
 ANKAOEKAZTONETOZAIEIPOIEIZOAITONArnNOOETHNKAl 
 
 lEPEABAZIAEnZEYMENOYriNOMENON 
 
 EAOEENTniKOINniTnNZYNAmNIZTriNEPEIAHKPATnN 
 
 inXIXOYKAAXHAONIOZAYAHTHZEYNOYZnNAIATE 
 
 AEITniKOINfllTflNZYNArnNIZTnNKAIAErnNKAl 
 
 PPATTr2NAIEITAZYM<t>EPONTATOIZZYNArnNIZTAIZ 
 
 lEPEYZTEAlPEOEIZPPOTEPONTHNPAZANEPIMEAEIAN 
 
 EPOIHZATOTAZTEOYZIAZZYNETEAEZENPAZAZOZI 
 
 nZMENTAnPOZTOYZOEOYZKAITOYZBAZIAEIZKAAHZ 
 
 AEKAI EN AOEHZTAP POZP ANTAZTOYZZYN ArnN IZTAZ 
 
 OYTEAAPANHZOYTE<l>IAOTIMIAZOYOENEAAEIPnNKAI 
 
 NYNAEArnNOOETHZrENOMENOZKAAnZTIlNArXlNnN 
 
 PPOZTAZKAITOIZNOMOIZAKOAOYOHZAZAIEIMNHZTON 
 
 TOIZEPiriNOMENOIZKATEAIPENTHNAPXHNINAOYNKAl 
 
 OIZYNArilNIZTAIEMPANTIKAIPni<J>AINnNTAITIMjnNTEZ 
 
 TOYZEEEAYTflNAEAOXOAITIllKOINniTflNZYNAmNIZ 
 
 TI2NZTE<I>ANOYNKPATnNAmTIXOYKAAXHAONIONAIA 
 
 BIOYENTETniKOINniAEIPNfilTflNZYNArflNIZTnNKAIEN 
 
 XniOEATPniPOIOYMENOYZTHNANArOPEYZINTHNAETO 
 
 TOKOINONTnNZYNArf2NIZTIlNZTE<t>ANOIKPATnNAniTIXOY 
 
 KAAXH AON IONZTE<l>ANniTni EKTOYNOMOYAPETHZEN EKEN 
 
 KAIEYNOIAZHZEXnNAIATEAEIEIZTOYZZYNArnNIZ 
 
 TAZTHZAEANArrEAIAZTHZTOYZTE<t)ANOYEPIME 
 
 AEIZOAITOYZAPXONTAZTOYZKATENIAYTONAIPOY 
 
 MENOYZINAAEKAlTOIZAAAOIZPAZIN<l>ANEPAHIEIZ 
 
 TONAPANTAXPONONHXnNZYNArnNIZTnNEYXAPIZ 
 
 TIAANArPAH'AITOH'H<t)IZMATOAEEIZZTHAHNAIOINHN 
 
 KAIZTHZAIPPOZTniAIONYZiniENTniEPK^ANEZTA 
 
 THITOPniANAeEINAIAEAYTOYKAIEIKONAENTniAIONY 
 
 ZinirPAPTHNTEAEIANEPirPAH'ANTAZTOKOINONTnN 
 
 ZYNAri2NIZTnNZTE<l)ANOIKPATnNAir2TIXOYKAA 
 
 XHAONIONAPETHZENEKENKAIEYNOIAZTHZEIZAY 
 
 TOYZ 
 
 TXlNENIZOMniKAINEMEAITEXNITXlN 
 
 EPElAHKPATXlNiriTIXOYPEPrAMHNOZAYAHTHZKY 
 
 KAIOZPPOTEPONTEPOAAAZKAIMErAAAZPAPEZ 
 
 XHTAIXPEIAZKATIAIANTETOIZENTYrXANOYZIN 
 
 A 2
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Ett* 'Icjoeajs ^arvpou Kai Aywvoderou K^ac l 
 
 'lejoe'ws (3a(ri\ew^ Ev/neuou NtK:oTeAo[i;s 
 
 'ESo^ev Ttoi KOivioi Twv rrepl tou Aiouvaov rexvli 
 
 T(ov Twv eV 'ItDj/i'as Kai 'EAA>;o'7roVTOi/ Kal twv 7re\^pt 
 
 Tov KaSriyefjiOva Aiovucrov 'ETreidr] KpccTwv ZwTtxo[v 5 
 
 civ\t]Tt]9 evepyertj^ ev Te too? Trporepov ^(^povwi t[>;j/ 
 
 7ra(Tav cnrov^t]v Kal -rrpovoiav €i)(^ev twv K0ive7 a-vfji[^e 
 
 povTUJv ret <rvvo^wr Kal TifxtjOek a^/tos tou evepyerl^t] 
 
 Kev vTrepTiderai ret evvo'iai Kal (piXoTiix'iai rel eis tovs 
 
 Te)(^VLTa^ TTaVTa TrpaTTwv to. (rv/JLthepoi'Ta' Ae^o^dai }() 
 
 TUH KOLVUH TUtV TTCjOt TOV AlOVVCTOV Tt^UlTWV iTTUll'ta'ai 
 
 fxev KpaTcoua Zwtixov avXrjTijU evepyeTrju etti to)? ttiv 
 
 dvTt]v '^X^'^^ "''' irpoaipeciv TJj? evepyecria^ Ttj^ ets 
 
 airavTa^ Toys Te^VLTa^' TrpocrZovvai Ze avTwT Trpo^ 
 
 TaT^ TTpovTrapxovcrai^ rivals dvaKt'ipv^iu -re (rrecpd 15 
 
 vov TOV eK TOV PO/jLOv, tjfi. 7roit](reTai diel ev twT deuTpwi 6 
 
 eKaa-T0T6 yivofxevo^ dyiovodlTn's Kai Upev^ ySacrjAews 
 
 'Ei//xei/oi/ eV tP/i jSaciXew^ Evfxevov Tjfxepai, oTav r) re 7ro;x7r[>/ 
 
 SieXdtji Kal a'l crTecpavwcret^ avvTeXwvTai' onoita's Ze 
 
 Kai Trapa tov ttotov yiveadw Ttji dvTrjT tj/ixepai juieTa tus 20 
 
 cnrovdd^ vtto twv dp^ovTiDV >/ dvayyeX'ia tov (TTecpdvov 
 
 TrapaTidea-dai Be Kal ev TaTs Beaii Kal ev Ta?? Trofxirah ira 
 
 pa TOV dvZp'iavTa tov KpaTcovos tov ev twT deaTpwi Tp'tTro 
 
 Sa T6 Krai dvimiaTijpiov Kal Ttji eTridv/uiidcrews Trjv eTrtfxeXei 
 
 av Kad' eKaa-TOV eros dtel 7roie7(r6ai tov dywvo6ert]v Kal 25 
 
 lepea /SactAews 'Ev/nevov yivofxevov. 
 
 II. 
 
 Eoo^ev Twi KOLVwi TWV (TvvaycovKrTwV ETreiZt) KpaTtov 
 
 ZwTixov KaA;^^;So^/Jos uvXrjTtii evvov^ wv ZiaTe 
 
 XeT Twi KOivwi TWV <rvvaywvL(rTwu Kal Xeywv Kal 
 
 TrpaTTiOV diet ra crv/ui(pepovTa toIs (rvvaywvKTTal^ so
 
 APPENDIX. 9 
 
 lepev^ re alpedei'^ Trporepov Tt)v Tracrav emfxeAeiav 
 
 iTTOLt'icraTO, Ta'9 Te dvcria's (TweTeXetrev Trdcras, ocrl 
 
 oj? fuev Tu TTjOos Tous 6eov^ Kal Toii? fiacriXei^, KaXw't 
 
 Be Kal euBo^wi to. ttjOos rrraVTa's tous a-vuaywvKTTa^ 
 
 ovTe BaTravt]^ ovre (piXoTifiia^ ov&eu eAAeiTrwi/' kui 35 
 
 vvv 8e a'ywvodeTtj'i 'yevofievo^ KaXws twu dycovwu 
 
 TTpoo'Ta? Kat Tol^ vofxoi's aKoXovOi'icra^ ciie'ifjLvtiarTOv 
 
 Tol^ iTnyivofievoi^ KaTeXnrev Ttjv dp^tjV 'iva ovv Kal 
 
 ol (TvuaywuKTTai ifxiravTi Kaipwi (palvwvTai TifiwvTe<s 
 
 Toii^ ip eavTwW Aeco^dai twl koiuwl twv avva'ywvKr 40 
 
 Tajc crre(pavovv Kparwva Zwtixov KaX^^l^oviov Bid 
 
 fi'iov, evTe Twi KOivaii Be'nn/coL twv arvva'ywvKrTuiv, Kal eV 
 
 TUil dedrpwi TroLOVfxevov^ Tt]v dvayopevcriv Ttjvde' to 
 
 TO KOivdv TWV (rvvwywvKrTwv (TTefpavol KpaTcova Zw-rt^^oi/ 
 
 KaXx'lBofiov <TTe(pav(2i twi e'/c tou vofxov dpeT)")? eueKeu 45 
 
 Kal evuoia^ »}? ex^^^ BiaTeXeT eh toi/s (rvvaywyicr 
 
 Tcts" T>7s Ze dvayyeXia^ Ttj^ tov (TTetpavov eTrifxe 
 
 XeTcrdai TOvi dp^ovTas xous kkt' eviavTOv aipov 
 
 fxevow 'iva Se Kal toTs dXXoi? Trdcriv (pavepd ^c ets 
 
 TOV vrduTa xpovov »; twv (TvvaywvKTTwv evx^apicr 5y 
 
 Tia dvaypdyp-ai to -^rjcpicriia ToBe eh Tt]V a-TriXtjv Xidivrjv 
 
 Kal (TTrjcrai vrpo^ twi Aiovvcriwi ev twi eTrKpavecTTd 
 
 TWI TOirwi' dvadelvai he avTOv Kal eiKOva ev twi Aiouv 
 
 (Tiwi ypaTTTtjv TeXeiav eTriypayf/^avTa^' to koivov twv 
 
 (TvvaywvicrTWv (TTe^avoT KpaTwva Zwri^ou KaX 55 
 
 X*lBoviov dpeTrj^ evcKev kui evvoia^ t>7? ets dv 
 
 TOVi. 
 
 Tojv ev 'IcrdiJLWL Kai Ne/ueat tcxvItwv. 
 '^TreiZt] KpaTwv Zwri^ov Hepyafj.tivo's auXtjTr]^ kv 
 kXio^ TTpOTcpov Te TToWas Kat /leydXa^ 7rape<r 
 X>)Tai ;^peias kut IZiav Te Toh evrvyxdvovariv
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 VERSION. 
 
 " "When Satyrus was priest (to the Society of Actors,) and 
 when Nicoteles was Agonotheta and priest of King Eumenes ; the 
 Society of those Actors, who are established in Ionia and as far * as 
 the Hellespont, and of those who are under the protection of 
 Bacchus, decreed. — Whereas Crato son of Zotichus, a performer on 
 the flute, a benefactor, hath both in former times paid every regard and 
 consideration to the interests of this body ; and having been honoured 
 for the benefits which he conferred, still continues to shew good will 
 and a friendly disposition to the Actors, doing whatever is advantageous 
 to them ; it is agreed by the Community, to commend Crato son of 
 Zotichus, performer on the flute. Benefactor, because he continues 
 to entertain those same sentiments of benevolence, which he has shewn 
 towards all the Actors ; and that in addition to the honours already 
 bestowed on him, there shall be granted to him a proclamation of 
 a crown given according to the law, which proclamation the person 
 who happens to be at the time Agonotheta and Priest of King 
 Eumenes, shall cause + to be made always in the theatre, on the day of 
 King Eumenes, when the procession passes by, and the ceremony of 
 coronation takes place: and likewise on the same day after the 
 libations are offered, during the feast there shall be made a declaration 
 of the Crown by the Archons ; and at the time when the shews are 
 exhibited and the procession passes by, there shall be placed by the 
 statue of Crato, which is in the Theatre, a tripod and censer : and he 
 who happens to be Agonotheta and priest of King Eumenes, shall 
 have charge of the incense every year." 
 
 II. 
 
 " It is agreed upon by the Society of the 1.vuayii)vi(rTal, or those who 
 are engaged together in Dramatic and Musical exhibitions: — Whereas 
 Crato son of Zotichus, a citizen of Chalcedon, performer on the flute, 
 
 * See the citation from Strabo in the note on line 4. 
 
 f 'Ap'/eToi (T(pimv eiVdi/a? woitja-dnei'oi. Herod. I. 31. " caused statues to be made." Matthi% 
 Gr. Gram. Blomfield's Transl. p. 714. 2.
 
 APPENDIX'. 7 
 
 continues to be well disposed to the Society, both by word and deed 
 consulting the interests of it : and when he was chosen priest formerly, 
 shewed all possible attention ; and performed all the sacrifices, reli- 
 giously, in what relates to the Gods and to the Kings, and splendidly 
 and honourably in what concerns the Society, deficient in no degree 
 either in expence or liberality ; and latterly when he was Agonotheta, 
 by his proper conduct as president of the games, and by his obedience 
 to the laws, has left his magistracy a subject of perpetual remembrance 
 to his successors ; in order therefore, that the Corporation of Joint 
 Actors may at all times appear to honour those who belong to their 
 body, it has decreed to give to Crato of Chalcedon, son of Zotichus, 
 a crown for life, making at the same time this declaration, both at the 
 common supper of the members, and in the theatre : " the society of 
 the actors crown Crato, of Chalcedon, son of Zotichus, with a crown, 
 given according to the law, on account of his virtue, and the good will 
 which he continues to entertain towards them :" The magistrates 
 chosen every year shall have the charge of the proclamations of the 
 crown ; and that the gratitude of the members be for ever manifest 
 to all persons, they have ordered this decree to be written on a marble 
 stele, and to be fixed in the most conspicuous place near to the temple 
 of Bacchus ; and a painted statue of him, at full length, to be placed 
 in the said temple, bearing this inscription : — The society of Joint 
 Actors crown Crato son of Zotichus, of Chalcedon, on account of his 
 virtue, and his good will towards them. 
 
 " The actors at the Isthmus and at Nemea, decree, 
 " Since Crato of Pergamus, son of Zotichus, a player on the flute, 
 who performs publicly, and gives lessons in his art in different towns, 
 hath formerly conferred many and great services, both privately on 
 those who are acquainted with him, (and) "
 
 S APPENDIX. 
 
 :notes. 
 
 Line 1. -ruv rex"''^'^'' is understood after Upew^- t-rr) I'epf'w? rmv Ttx^iruv Kparivov k-al 
 ayiavodirov koi kpeio'! Qeov Ei/jutVov 'Apt(TTai'ov. Cllish. An. As. p. 146. 
 
 2. Evftevov. Tlie same form (Kva^dpou) occurs in Xenophon, and in the Milesian 
 inscriptions in Cliishull, MeveKpoTov, 'EvKpdrov. p. 149. 
 
 4. In Strabo. o-i/Voooc Tfvi/ixa!^ Kat KarotKia rioi/eV Ian/in ti^XP' 'Ef^^tja-wdi/rov. Lib. xiv. 922. 
 
 5. Maittaire prints Kae,]yt]n6va ; the marble has Kaet;^^/^^)^ ; so in Van Dalen, 232, lepcvt 
 Tov K.aOriyenovo^ Ai'oc. 
 
 5. Maittaire prefers Zwt'ikov. But the name of Crato's father is also written Zu,t!xo<: in 
 Chishllll; and we have 'Anvvrix"':, &uiovix<k, Uvppixo<:, Aeovnxo':, Boo-xopi^^jo?, Iior^ptxo'!. 
 ■Greg, de D. ed. Schaef. 291- 
 
 7, 8. The old orthosraphy KoiveT, -reT, and the more recent forms are mixed in this 
 
 inscription. 
 
 9. virepTieeTGi. Maittaire translates it, "superat omnes." I have given a different meining, 
 which is suggested by v-nep8i<yiito<! in the Ecclesiastical writers. Nicephorus explaining a 
 passage of Evagrius (rac KaAoi/jueVa? vvepdecriixov:) says, ovToi Ce ttoWoki? Kat oi/m Kai TpeTt 
 vTrepdcuivoi -7-0)1/ rjitepwv. "Tliey protract or prolong their fast for two or three days." li 
 ssepius in biduum et triduum jejunium proferunt. See Vales, anim. in I. 1, His. Ecc. Evag. 
 p. 65. 
 
 18. Perhaps there was an eVm'i/u/jo? tjnepa, called after Eumenes, as there were (-n-amfioi 
 t'lfxepat KpaT(oi/o?. 
 
 19. -TTOToi/. during the time of supper. ce7wvoi> in the second inscription. In the anecdote 
 of Archelaus, in Plutarch, we read alrndet^ irapd ttotov, which is elsewhere given, aiTjiSek 
 -TTctpd iemvov. P. Leop. Em. 1. iii. chap. 14. 
 
 21. A similar expression occurs in an inscription given in Chandler, p. 9. dmjye'iXai aCr6v 
 TOV (TTcAavov Toil AevKadeott /xera -ra? o-iroi/Sac. 
 
 24. 'Ai'a77f,\ia, eV/0i«|Ui'a<ri?, <n/i/a7(i)i/i(rTai are not found in the Lexicons. The first word 
 occurs on another marble. See Greg, de D. ed Schaefer, 618. 
 
 32. TO? TE 0i<(7ia5 Tracrac cri/neTeAeo-ei/ irptTTovruit:, Chandler, p. 9- 
 
 41. Throughout the inscription we find KaXxnofiv, not XaXKtjSwV, as the copies of Strabo 
 
 give the word. 
 
 43. Maittaire refers to Demos, de Cor. dvayoptZaai tov &Te(pavov ev Tmdea'rpiai. 
 
 47 48. rtji ce avayyeXia^ eTnne\e7<Tdai tov<; xad' iKa<yTOv €to? Ti/iw^ei/ouc -Trpoa-Taraf. 
 Chandler. M. An. p. 9- 
 
 53. Maittaire doubts whether eiV-o'i/a ypavrrjv tcMmv may not refer to a " full-length 
 portrait." I have preferred the meaning of " Statue :" on account of iTnypd\l/avTa': ; as 
 inscriptions were placed on statues, rather than on pictures. EIkovi ypdvTrtimxpva^ occwi 
 on a marble at lerondas, copied by Mr. Whiltington; see Ins. No. 48. in this volume; where 
 the words evidently point to a statue; the picture was not gilded. 'EiKo'ra xp"'^''" ^'0' "'^'^<"'- 
 Pseph. Sig. Chishull, 57. 'EiKova ypairTtjv dvaOehai. Mis. Obs. vol. III. p. 197. 
 
 59. "Ku'kAioi aJ\»)Tal eraut tibicines circumforanei qui publice in variis locis artem 
 exercebant et docebant." H. Steph. in Th. quoted by Maittaire.
 
 
 
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