i iMMMHMgjiggi^jrirxgiriMiMiiy^gig»»^ WARD LOCK^ G!:^o 3|i THE » ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT !t1' LLUSTRATEDGUIDEBOOKS LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE «v:^M«B«^:^^)^'^^^B*a0*MaBatf««^^ VENTNOR, FOLKESTONE, AND WORTHING (1869) 0667) (lyl3) HOLIOAy AND (iOMALESCENT HOMES FOR THE LONDON CIT/JVnSSION ARIES. What puts the City Missionary out of repair ? 1. The places he must spend his working hours in. 2. The awiui scenes he must witness every day. 3. The vitiated air he must inoreathe. 4. The terriole poverty and sickness he sees. What is the Remedy ? A FORTNIGHT AT THE SEASIDE. Contributions, whatever the zimount, towards the support of the three Homes, or towards the HoUday Fund for enabling Missionaries who cannot be accom- modated i £2 10 rht, £5 wil WiU L Office Before REEF POINT GARDENS LIBRARY iday ? NJ, E.G. \ onsider 9^ ^: Vlakers if value IS of eaking. OErrnraTRUNKS The Gift of Beatrix Farrand to the General Library U?iiversity of California^ Berkeley DErmrs TRUNKS mM: — CFOR WORLD « TRAVELUNO U There arc irunKs, »ag» anu v^ases i" mcci iui uccJs at B^^^^^^ Send for particulars post free. PERFECTION MOTOR SPIRIT 1^# APPOINTMENT ^Q'" ANCLOAWERiCAN.O(LCO..LTD 36-58QUEEN ANH£S CATE.-«r SOLDBYALLGHfMISTI AND PERFUMERS IN ELEGANT PATENT METALLIC BOX PRICE 1 /l ■^25i^' BENSON'S FINE RINGS. Best Quality. Lowest Prices. "'dimes'' system of MONTHLY PAYMENTS is available. Selections sent at our Risk and E:.pense. Illustrated Book of Rings from.£I (with size card). Watches trcm £2, Jewels, etc , post free 62 and 64, LUDGATE HILL, E.C. THE TEMPORARY [EttahUshed ihgo. HOME FOR LOST AND STARVING DOGS, Battersea Park Road, London, S.W. and Hackbridge, Surrey. Patron: HIS MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY THE KING. President: HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF PORTLAND, K.O. To clear the Londoa Streets of Lost and Starving Dogs, and to provide them with food and shelter. To Restore Lost D02S to their owners, and when D^gs are unclaimed, to find suitable homes for them at nominal prices. To dcstrov dangerous and worthless Dogs by a Painless and Humane Method In the Lethal Chamber. 1,100,000 Dogs have been received and rrovided for since 1860. Outpatients' Dept. (Battersea) Tuesdays and Thursdays, 2.30. (hv letter onlv). At Hackbridge Dogs and Cats can be received as Boarders, and Dogs for Quarantine under the Board of Agriculture Regulations. SUBSCRIPTIONS and DONATIONS thankfuUv received by GUY H. QUJLLUM SCOTT, Sfrretan/. Temperance Permanent Building Society, 4, 6, & 8, LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, E.C. THE LARGEST, STRONGEST AND CHEAPEST IN LONDON. Prompt Advances. Light Repayments. Easy Redemptions. Low Costs ABSOLUTE SECURITY FOR INVESTORS. Shares, 4 per cent. Deposits, 3 per cent. RESERVE FUND exceeds £140,000. EDWARD WOOD, Manager. Insure in THE WESTMINSTER FIRE OFFICE Estd. nearly 200 Years. MODERATE RATES. Properties viewed and Specifications Prepared Free of Expense to Proposer. Applications for Agencies Invited. Head Office: KING STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. " The Ideal Beverage." $YMONS' DELICIOUS DEVONSHIRE CYDER A MATURE and ^^ delicious liquor, the juice of the finest Devonshire Apples. It is suppliecl dry or sweet with a body and flaxour due to expert blending of the fruit. The Cham- pagne of Cyders ! Obtainable from Fruit Mills— TOTNES, DEVON And Ratcliff, London, E., or Wine Mer- chants, &c. NORWICH UNION MUTUAL LIFE OFFICE ESTABLISHED 1808 BECAUSE OF US- AGE. — It is a Centenarian in its own right, and, by its absorption of the Amicable Society, THE OLDEST LIFE OFFICE IN THE WORLD. MAGNITUDE. — Its Annual Volume of new business is very much larger than that of any other British Life Office not transacting Industrial Business. RESERVE STRENGTH.— Its Valuations are made on a Reserve Basis of 2| per cent. — a rate attained, or even aimed at, by very few Offices. PROFIT YIELD.— Notwithstanding the severity of the Reserve Basis, the iqii Valuation showed a Profit of ;^727,i53, and the handsome scale of Bonuses of 1906 was maintained. ALERTNESS. — Its Special Tables are designed to meet all the needs of the Twentieth Century, and have done much to popularise Insurance. ECONOMY. — The Business, large as it is, has been built up on strictly economical lines. THE OUTSTANDING BRITISH LIFE OFFICE Write for Prospectus to the Secretary, NORWICH UNION LIFE OFFICE, NORWICH, or to any Branch Offlce of the Society Series 19 14-15.] NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK OF ENGLAND Limited. Established 1833. Subscribed Capital - £15,900,000 Paid-up Capital - - £3,000,000 Reserve Fund (^S^^^irSSL), £2,000,000 Number of Shareholders, 18,639. DIRECTORS : Colin Frederick Campbell, Esq. Maurice Otho Fitzgerald, Esq, William Hem-y Neville Goschen, Esq. The Right Hon. Lord Inchcape, G.C.M.G., K.C.S.I., K.C.I.E. Francis Alexander Johnston, Esq. Claude ViUiers Emilius Laurie, Esq. Francis Charles Le Marchant, Esq. The Right Hon. The Earl of Lichfield. George Forbes Malcolmson, Esq. Selwyn Robert Pryor, Esq. Thomas George Robinson, Esq. Robert Wigram, Esq. Joint General Managers: Thomas Estall, Esq., D. J. H. Cunnick, Esq. Fredrick Eley, Esq. Solicitors : E. H. N. WUde, Esq., W. E. Moore, Esq., College HiU, London. Head Office: 15, BISHOPSGATE, Corner of Threadneedle Street E.C. r" ""'^^ The National Pro- vincial Banl( of England Limited, having numerous Branches in Eng- land and Wales, as well as Agents and Correspondents at home and eibroad, affords great facili- ties to its customers, who may have money transmitted to the credit of their Accounts through any of the Branches free of charge. SUPREMACY of the A.M. P. (AUSTRALIAN MUTUAL PROVIDENT SOCIETY.) gr. There are more than 80 Offices doing Life Assurance Business in Ijj the United Kingdom. The Benefits granted by such OflBces vary to an enormous extent. Taking examples from Stone & Cox's Bonus Tables (1914 issue), we find that for each ^10 of Annual Premium paid by a man effecting an ordinary Whole Life Policy, the Best Results shown are as follows : — Age at Entry. Original Assurance. Policy with Bonus Accumulations. Actual Results of past 25 years. Results in 25 years, based on the last rate of bonus only. 20 80 40 £535 415 310 £888 690 512 £893 689 514 THE BEST RESULTS are those of the AUSTRAUAN MUTUAL PROVIDENT SOCIETY (The A.M.P.) Arising under a system of Annual Distribution of Bonus and a scale of Premiums unchanged since the foundation of the Society in 1849. " A stronger Life Office does not exist, and the bonus record of the Society is truly remarkable." — Saturday Review, "The conditions it now presents make the maintenance or improvement of its i-etuins to policy-holders practically certain." — TJie htsicraitce Spectator. AUSTRALIAN MUTUAL PROVIDENT SOCIETY, 37, Thread needle Street, London, E.C. Funds £32,000,000. Annual Income, £4,000,000. BRAND'S LOZENGES for TOURISTS, ATHLETES, INVALIDS. "A meal in your vest pocket." IN BOXES, 1/- and 1/4 BRAND & CO., LTD., Mayfair Works, Vauxhali, LONDON, 5.W. ■ The Red Indian's digestion J! famous. Travellers report of the red man's appetite and digestive powers that they are of the " I-can-eat-anything" kind. Did you know that he is very fond of mustard ? Experience has shown him that the pleasant, zestful " tang " of mustard excites the saUvary glands, and that the peculiar essential oil keeps the digestion in splendid order. (dolman's D,S.F. Mustard. London City& Midland Bank ESTABLISHED 1836. Limited. HEAD OFFICE: 5, THREADNEEDLE ST., LONDON, E.G. CAPITAL SUBSCRIBED . . (27th Jan. 1914). £20,873,520 CAPITAL PAID UP 4,348,650 RESERVE FUND 3, TOO, 000 ADVANCES &c 52,020,707 DEPOSIT & CURRENT ACCOUNTS 96,485,878 CASH IN HAND, AT CALL & AT SHORT NOTICE 30,055,473 BILLS OF EXCHANGE 12,718,333 INVESTMENTS 7,970,927 Over 860 Offices in England and Wales, SIR EDWARD H. HOLDEN, Bart., CHAIRMAN. BARTHOLOMEW'S MAPS. Best for all Purposes. SENT F'REE. Complete List of Maps and Plans of all Districts in England, Scotland, and Ireland, on receipt of request to the Publishers — JOHN BARTHOLOMEW & Co. ("B ' Dept), The Geographical Institute, EDINBURGH. £7 "I TSi Sell SWISS TOURS, 16 DAYS. £5 1 OS. NAMUR AND THE ARDENNES, 16 DAYS. £8 12s. 6 da LUGANO, 16 DAYS. FREE CHURCH TOURING GUILD, 110, Memorial Hall, Farringdon Street, London, EC. WHETHER YOU EARN £500 A YEAR OR ft C nnn you are not justified in living up to that unless you have *#*'j"WU made suitable provision for those depending on you. But if you insure well, and in the right Office, you can spend all you make with a mind free from care. The National Provident Institution of 48, Gracechurch Street, London. E.C, ha\e recently published six interesting Jeallets which everyone should see. YOU NEED NOT GO TO PARIS to get the FINEST PREPARED PARISIAN LUNCHEONS and DINNERS YOU can obtain these advantages amidst Pleasant and Comfortable Surroundings, EVERY DAY at LE MOULIN D'OR Parisian Restaurant, 27, CHURCH STREET, SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON, W. Lunch, 1/6 Dinner, 2/6 THE ROYAL SCHOOL FOR THE INDIGENT BLIND, Leather head f Surrey. Patron : His Most Gracious Majesty KING GEORGE V. Patroness : Her Most Gracious Majesty THE QUEEN MOTHER. 1799-1914. The Committee earnestly appeal for Contribu- tions to this ancient Charity which has for the last 115 years carried on good work amongst the Blind of the United Kingdom. "TO RENDER THE BLIND SELF-RELIANT." Principal and Secretary : Rev. ST. CLARE HILL, M.A., J. P. Bankers : Lloyds Bank, Ltd., i6, St. James's Street, London, S.W. Chief Offices : Higlilands Road, Leatherhead. THE SOCIETY FOR GRANTING ANNUITIES TO THE POOR ADULT BLIND, No. 1, St. George's Circus, Southwark, S.E. 1858-1914. The Committee of this National Pension Society plead for support to enable them to maintain the 311 Pensions now granted, and if possible to extend assistance to those deserving poor now on the list anxiously waiting. A Donor of £200 in one sum has the right to nominate a Candidate to an immediate Annuity bearing the Donor's name. Chairman and Treasurer: STUART JOHNSON, Esq., No. 4, Eaton Place, London, S.W. Hon. Secretary' : Rev. ST. CLARE HILL, M.A., J. P., No. I, St. George's Circus, Southwark, S.E. Bankers : Lloyds Bank, Ltd., 16, St. James's Street, London, S.W. THE SOUTH LONDON INSTITUTE FOR THE BLIND, No. 83, Borough Road, London, S.E. 1870-1914. The Institution which benefits the Blind Poor is unendowed, and the Committee earnestly appeal for New Annual Subscriptions and Donations, which are much needed. Rev. ST. CLARE lilLL, M.A., J. P., Hon. Secretary, No. 83, Bt)rough Road, London, S.E. Bankers : London & South Western Bank, Ltd.f No. I, St. George's Circus, Soutli\v;vrk, London, S.E, WHEN ON HOLIDAY r Ni^ht Lights Give a sense of security to nervous children occupying strange bedrooms. PRICE 'S Regina Nursery SOAP. Mildest and Best for Infants. Soothing to the Sun-scorched Skin. Per 2:Td. Tablet. TO THE THRIFTY. CHURCH OF ENGLAND Pho)u : No. 5409 HoLBORN. Te/s. ,'• Thriftdom, London.' TEMPERANCE AND GENERAL PERMANENT Incorpo- rated 1882. A Good Investment. BUILDING SOCIETY INVESTING SHARES (£25) issued ; payable in full or by ijistal- nients— Interest 4i°/o. No with- drawal fees or deductions. DEPOSITS received at 4°/o, subject to 6 mouths' notice of withdrawal, and 3J°/oi on one months' notice. Interest on Shares and Deposits paid half-yearly, FREE OF IN- COME TAX, on ist June and 1st 1 )eceinber. ADVANCES at moderate interest, rL'payal)le by easy monthly instal- ments over a period of 5 to 20 years — thus turning' the rent into pur- chase-money — are made for Buy- ing, Building and Improving House Troperty. Prompt Settlements. Survey fees, and Law Costs fixed and very reasonable. I. ~ Why not become your own Landlord Jf'riiefor Prospectus to Secretajy, "THRIFTDOM" (Dept. 25), 22, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON, W.C. DOG OUT OF SORTS ? Give him a dose or two of BENBOW i THE RELIABLE TONIC AND CONDITIONER. Over Seventy Years' Reputation. Sold by all Chemists and Stores, in bottles, 2/-, 5/-, and 10/- each. BENBOW'S DOG MIXTURE CO., 181, Aldersgate St., London, E.G. Face half iille] Your Snapshots will be Better If developed and printed by a practical photo- grapher. Photography is my business — it is not a side line — and Amateur work is my speciality. Films developed, printed and returned next day post free. Failures (double exposures, &c.) not charged. DEVELOPING PRICES per rolls of half dozen, Brownies and No. I F.P.K. 6d., No. la and 3 F.P.K. 9d., No. 3a F.P.K. and 5x4, 1/-. Full List on application. F^. JENKINS, PHOTOGRAPHER, SOUTHWOLD, SUFFOLK. The English Lake District I I DIUOflTfUL STEAtVIER TRIPS Through 90 Miles of Thames Scenery, --^^^-^^rSS*^ Daily Service (Sundays ex- 1 /'^i^^fe?§?^!t^ cepted) from May to end of September. SALOON STEAMERS between OXFORD, DOWN TRIP. Oxfonl dep. . . 9.30 a.m., 2.30 p. Wailingford arr.abt. 1.40 p.m., ».40 p. „ dep. abt. 2.40 p.m., U.o a. Henley arr. about 7.0 p.m., 1.30 p. „ dep. „ y.o.v a.m., 2.40 p. Windsor air. „ 1.45 p.m., 7.1.5 p. „ dep. „ 2.40 p.m., 'J.iu a. Kingston arr. „ 7.10 p.m., 1.30 p. run daily (Sundays excepted) HENLEY, and KINGSTON. UP TRIP. m. Kingston dep. . 9.0 a.m., 2.30 p.m. .m. WindBor arr. aboiit.1.40 p.m., 7.15 p.m. m. „ dep. „ 2.40 p.m., 9.1o a.m. m. Henley arr. „ 7.lr> p.m., 1.40 p.m. m. „ dep. „ y.u a.m., 2.40 p.m. m. Wailingford arr. „ 1.40 p.m., 7. 1.5 p.m. m. „ dep. „ 2.40 p.m., 9.0 a.m. m. Oxford arr. .. 7.10 p.m., 1.15 p.m. The through journey occupies two days each way, but passengers can join or leave the boat at any of the locks or regular stopping placet.. Circular Tickets fcr combined Railway and Ste.imer Trips are issued at most of the principal O.W.R. Stations, also at Waterloo, Richmond and Kingston Stations, L. & S.W. Railway. Time T.ibles giving full particulars of arrangements, fares, etc., post free, Irf. ROWING BOATS of all kinds for Excursions down the River at Charges which include Cartage back to Oxford. STEAM, ELECTRIC AND MOTOR LAUNCHES for Hire by the Day or Week, and also for the Trip. Full Particulars on application. Boats oj every description, Canoes, PunU, fie., buUl to order. .\ large selection, both New and Becond-hand, kept in readiness for Sale or Hire. Illustrated Price Lists may be had on application. HOUSE BOATS FOR SALE OR HIRE, A ALSO BUILT TO ORDER. SALTER BROTHERS, Boat Builders, Folly Bridge, OXFORD. 'v^"" 3 i",. Jf-"''^^ /L„ji>i( .:/^ H,. " ^ "^ ««i1 "y^^ t ..y , z^ ,^^^^;^W^ mutant ntey 1 ^X^--^'^^^ / \ \ ill X ■! mn^ H \ ^ _jV 1 'Pi- hi I.- 1 1 n-V*"" "^35 IMnr^r*f vmTFBA MS^^ *" \," V r'\P \ Y_ < WARD. LOCK, A CO.. Ltd.. Warwick House, Salisbury Square. LONDON. A pictorial anb Deecriptive (5uibe TO THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT, WITH AN OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS. MAP OF DISTRICT AND THREE SECTION MAPS. UPWARDS OF SIXTY ILLUSTRATIONS. Seventeentb Bt)ltlon— IReviseD. Half-Crown Handbook. A special edition of this Guide is published at 2/6 net, in superior cloth gilt binding, with several additional maps on the scale of an inch to a mile. LONDON : WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, E.G. Ipictorial anb ©eacriptive (Buibe TO THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT, WITH AN OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS. MAP OF DISTRICT AND THREE SECTION MAPS. UPWARDS OF SIXTY ILLUSTRATIONS. Seventeentb BMtfon— IRevlseD. Half-Crown Handbook. A special edition of this Guide is published at 2/6 net, in superior cloth gilt binding, with several additional maps on the scale of an inch to a mile. LONDON : WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, E.G. tANDSCAPE 'fi> RCH !T'~CTU RE Most Convenient Situation in LONDON for Pleasure or Busines? {Opposite the Abbey and Houses of Parliament) The Westminster Palace Hotel. Commodious. Comfortable, PIrst-class Establishment. 5pacious Reception Rooms. Self-contained Suites. NO CHARGE FOR SERVICE OR ELECTRIC LIGHT. Bedrooms from 3/6 upwards. Inclusive Rates from 11/- each. A FIREPROOF BUILDING. PASSENGER LIFTS. ALL LATEST MODERN IMPROVEMENTS. TELEGRAMS : TELEPHONES : " Hostelry London." 70 & 5134 Westminster. Farrand Gift: MAPS The Lake District Windermere, Coniston, and District. Dllswater, Grasmere and Tliirlmere. Derwentwater, Scafell and District L} ez Frontisptem j Faces page 71 yy >> 83 III CONTENTS Hotels and Tariffs Introductory. i\.REA •••••• Scope and Arrangement of Book Routes to the Lake District Lakeland Railways Circular Tours .... Coaches and Carriages — Steamers Suggestions for Week-End Tours A Fortnight in Lakeland Preliminary Information. Climate Times and Seasons Geology The 'Statesmen Natural History . Dimensions of Lakes Heights of Passes Mountain Groups . Lakeland Sports and Amusements. Angling Boating Bowls . Golf Links Hunting Mountaineering Sailing , Tennis . Winter Sports PAGE 9 17 17 19 20 2i 23 23 24 26 27 27 29 30 33 34 34 38 41 41 41 42 42 43 43 43 664 CONTENTS A Literary Note. Wordsworth and the Lake District . Wordsworth's " Miscellaneous Observations " Lake and Valley Formation Other Literary Associations Glossary of Lakeland Terms Cycling and Motoring, with outlines of principal routes Outline Guide for Pedestrians .... PAGE 44 44 47 49 51 53 58 THE CENTRAL DISTRICT. The Southern, or Windermere, Section. Bowness and Windermere • • • • . 70 Walks near Windermere and Bowness . 75 Ambleside • • • • . 79 Walks Round Ambleside • • • • 8o Grasmere • • • • . 84 Walks Round Grasmere • • • • 86 Coniston • • • • • 88 Walks Round Coniston • • • • * 90 Drives from Windermere, Ambleside, Grasmere AND Coniston • • • . • • 93 Furness Abbey • • • • « 98 Barrow-in-Furness • • '• • • 102 The Fells • • • • 1 104 The Northern, or Keswick, Section. Keswick .... Walks from Keswick Coach Drives from Keswick Thirlmere The Fells .... 109 III 120 123 126 The Eastern, or UUswater, Section. Patterdale . . . . . . . .130 Drives and Walks from Patterdale . . .131 Ullswater . . . . . . . • 135 The Fells I37 CONTENTS 7 PAGE The Western District. ESKDALE • ••••• . 141 Boot • ••••• 142 Excursions from Boot . . . . • 143 Wasdale • ••••• . 144 ScAFELL Pikes AND ScAFELL . . . . 146 Ennerdale . • ••••• The Passes. . 148 A General Description of the Passes included IN ALL THE BEFORE-MENTIONED SECTIONS . 150 THE BORDER DISTRICT. The Coast Section. To Lakeland Through the Furness District . 158 Morecambe . . . . . . .158 Arnside to Ulverston . . . . .159 Ulverston to Lake-Side, Coniston and Broughton i6j^ Ravenglass and Seascale to Cockermouth . .168 The Inland Border Section. Kendal .... The Neighbourhood of Kendal KiRKBY Lonsdale . Shap and District Penrith .... Penrith to Ulls water 172 173 177 178 185 187 Index 189 Directory of Hotels, Boarding Houses, Estate Agents and Busi- ness Establishments. See announcements after p. 8 and at end. ILLUSTRATIONS FACES PAGE Head of Derwentwater 20 View from Honister Crag (Buttermere, Crummock Water and Loweswater) . 21 Windermere, from above Low Wood ... 28 The Island, Grasmere 29 Derwentwater (two views) .... 36 Bassenthwaite Lake and Skiddaw ... 37 Lake-Side Station, Windermere ... 44 Newby Bridge ... 44 Derwentwater, looking towards Newlands . 45 Blea Tarn and the Lang- dale Pikes ... 64 Blea Tarn Cottage, Little Langdale . . 65 River Duddon ... 68 Brathay Bridge, Am- bleside .... 69 Bowness and Belle Isle 76 Bowness .... 'j'j Ambleside and Wansfell Pike 80 Rydal Water (two views) .... 81 Grasmere, from the Wishing Gate . . 84 Grasmere Church . . 85 Dove Cottage, Grasmere 85 Coniston and the Old Man 92 Br ant wood .... 93 The Ruskin Memorial, Coniston .... 93 Ferry Nab, Winder- mere 96 Wmdermere, from Fur- ness Fells. ... 97 Furness Abbey . . 100 Windows of Chapter House . . . . 10 1 FACES PACK Furness Abbey : Cloisters 10 1 Langdale Pikes, from Thrang Crag . . 108 Keswick and Derwent- water . . . . 109 Friar's Crag, Derwent- water 112 Derwentwater, Broom - hill Point and Causey Pike 113 Castle Crag, Borrowdale 1 16 Bowder Stone, Borrow- dale 116 The Derwent in Bor- rowdale . . . . 117 Head of Buttermere and Fleetwith . . 124 Thirlmere and Helvellyn 125 Grisedale Pass . . 128 Summit of Skiddaw . 129 Loweswater and Mel- break . . . . 129 Head of Ullswater . 132 Stybarrow Crag, Ulls- water . . . . 133 Striding Edge, Hel- vellyn . . . . 1 40 Dunmail Raise . . 140 Mardale Green and Harter Fell . . . 141 Head of Wast water and Great Gable . . . 144 Screes, Wastwater . . 145 Summit of Scafell Pike 148 Mickledore Chasm, Sca- fell 148 Crummock Water . . 149 Kirkstone Pass, Brothers' Water and Place Fell 1 56 Honister Pass . . . 157 Arnside 160 Fairy Steps, Beetham . 161 Priory Church, Cartmel 161 Kendal Castle . . . 176 Levens Gardens . . 176 Shap Abbey . . • I77 AMBLESIDE. DIXON'S WANSFELL TOWER PRIVATE HOTEL. CuO B -a . y hjo o >^ °-J •a £ rt ^ C3 en et O M .ti c (/) ^n >^ o 1- CQ •2 ^ bib (i c «•§ •4-* I/) o JL < o D (B CD CD O n o 3 o U tL a> o 1-1 > h D o H O a Cu a o^ a" 10 <' H fB 3 Miss DIXON, Proprietress. COUNTY HOTEL. (UNLICENSED.) OITUATED on Lake side. Visitors and Tourists will find it most central for all Motor, Coaching, and Steamer Excursions. Excellent Boating and Fishing. Moderate Terms, Mrs. WHILLANS, Proprietress. ROSTHWAITE, SCAWFELL HOTEL, BORROWDALE, KESWICK. CHE above is the Only Licensed Hotel in Rosthwaite. Stands in its Own Grounds in the beautiful Borrow- dale Valley. First-class Accommodation. New Lounge and Dining Room added. A Splendid Centre for Climbers and Visitors. 'Bus meets trains Keswick Station. Garage. MATTHEW E. FEIRN, Proprietor. English Lakes, 1915-1O.] 1 AMBLESIDE, Waterhead. LAKELANDS PRIVATE HOTEL DENT'S PRIVATE HOTEL, The Esplanade, GRANGE-OVER-SANDS. rr HIS Hotel is ^ unsurpassed for situation Winter and Summer. Sea and Mountain Scenery. Overlook- ingNew Promenade. Golf Links, Tennis Court, and Bowling Green, open to visitors. MOTOR COACH CIRCULAR TOURS to the Lake District from this Hotel. A.C.U. and C.T.C. GARAGE. Apply Tariff. Taxis meet all Trains. Telephone Grange 52. Mrs. WILSON & Miss DENT, Proprietresses. KESWICK. l-ODORE HOTEL BORHOWDALE. ♦fl^EAUTIFULLY Situated at •J'-^ head of Lake Derwentwater and the entrance to Borrowdale. Visitors will find it quiet and restful, a good centre for walking, it being on the High Road to Wast- water. Sea wf ell, Great Gable. Good Trout Fishing in Lake and River. Coach to Buttermere Daily. Two Electric Launches run to Keswick & Portinscale, landing several times daily. Garage. LP, Petrol. Hotel 'Bus meets Trains & Coaches at Keswick. 'Phone 2 Keswick. Tels., " Lodore, Keswick." J. S, HARKER, Proptr. KESWICK. WAYERLEY BOARDING HOUSE ^JIITUATED within a few minutes from Station and '"^ Lake. Good Boating and Fishing. Central for all Coaching and CUmbing Excursions. Every Home Comfort. Moderate and Inclusive Terms. T. WILSON, Proprietor. ROSTHWAITE. ROYAL OAR HOTEL (UNLICENSED , BORROWDALE, KESWICK. EVERY Accommodation for Visitors and Tourists. Good Centre for Climbers. Public and Private Apartments. Bath. Stabling. Motor House. Moderate Terms. Conveyance meets Trains by Appointment. M. HAWKRIGG, Proprietress. KESWICK, ALBION PRIVATE HOTEL CENTRALLY situated with splendid views of Lakes and Mountains. Largest Dining Room in Town. Day and Choir Parties specially catered for. Coaches leave Hotel daily to all parts of District. Conveyances of all descriptions for hire. Motor Garage. Competent workmen on the premises. Write for list of Drives, Menus, or Tariff. W. WILSON, Proprietor. KESWICK. 1^. V-. ROYAL OAR HOTEL Established over 200 years. Situated in the most commanding position in the Town, and within a few minutes' walk of Derwent- water Lake Golf Links, and Fitz Park. The Hotel has been honoured with the patronage of the late King Edward VII. (when Prince of Wales), the King of Saxony, the Grand Duke Constantine of Russia. The Hotel has undergone exten sive alterations and additions, and is to-day One of the most Up^to-date and Best Equipped Hotels in the District. Well-appointed Four-in-hand Coaches leave this Hotel daily to all parts of the Lake District. Officially appointed Hotel for R.A.A. and M.U. Garage for 25 Cars adjoining Hotel, free for Hotel Visitors. Motors for Hire. Telephone 23. D. N. PAPE, Resident Proprietor. ULLSWATER, PENRITH. The Favourite Hotel of Wordsworth. PATTERDALE HOTEL Beautifully situated in Ovra Grounds near the head of Ullswater. It is an excellent centre for many charming walks and climbs. Helvellyn, Aira Force, and Kirkstone Pass are within easy distance. Coaches daily from Windermere and Ambleside. Moderate Tariff. Posting. Free Fishing in Lake and Streams. Officially Appointed Hotel for R.A.C., A.A. & M.U. Telegrams : " Hudson, Patterdale." Misses HUDSON, Proprietresses. To face page 9] HOTELS AND TARIFFS. EXCEPT at the height of the season, there is rarely difficulty in securing accommodation in the Lake District. In all the principal touring centres excellent hotels and boarding houses are to be found, and in many of the outlying villages there are good inns. The following list will, we hope, be useful to tourists. Where tariffs are given, they have been supplied by the proprietors ; but as changes are frequent it is as well to verify such matters by previous inquiry. Where hotels have Motor Garage attached, a note is made to that effect. Week-end terms include dinner or supper on Saturday and breakfast on Monday. [Abbreviations. — R., bedroom; J., breakfast; I., luncheon; t., tea; d., dinner; a., attendance ; /r., from ; temp., temperance.] Boarding terms : fr. 6/6 per clay. Garage. Garside's : ie.,single, fr. 2/- ; double, fr. :,/-; i.or/.,fr. 1/6; /., fr. i/-; d; 3/- ; «•. 6^- Boarding terms : 6/6 per day ; 42/- per week ; 12/- per week- end. Motor Garage. Westraerla, Waterhead : R., single, 2/- ; double, 4/- ; b., i/y ; I., 2/- ; t., I/-; d.,2/6. Boarding terms : 6/6 per day ; 42/- per week; 12/6 per week- end. Motor Garage. County (temp.). Robinson's (temp.), Lake Road : R., single, 2/-; double, 3/-; b., 1/6; I., 1/6; t., i/-; d., 2/-; a., nil. Boarding terms : fr. 5/6 per day fr. 35/- per week; 12/- per week-end. Arnside. Albion. Crown. Grosvenor (private) : R., single, fr. 2/6 ; double, fr. 4/6 ; b., fr. 1/6 ; t., i/-; d., 2/6; a., i/-. Boarding terms : fr. 6/6 per day ; fr. 45/6 per week ; 15/6 per week-end. Ambleside. Salutation : R., single, 4/- ; double, 7/-; ^.,2/6; ^, 2/6; rf., 4/-. Boarding terms : fr. 7;,/6 per week. Motor Garage. Queen's. White Lion : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 3/6 ; b., 2/6 ; I., fr. 2/- ; t., fr. i/- ; d., fr. 2/6. Boarding terms : 8/6 per day ; 58/- per week ; 16/- per week- end. Motor Garage. Private Hotels and Boarding Establishments. Hill's Wateredge. Boarding terms : 7/6 per day ; fr. 52/6 per week ; 15/- per week-end. Motor Garage. Vale View : R., single, 3/- ; double, 5/-; b., 2/-; /., 2/6; t., i/-; d., 4/- ; a., nU. Boarding terms : 52/6 per week. Garage. Wanstell Tower : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/- ; b., I. or d., fr. 1/6 ; t., fr. I/-. Boarding terms : bib per day ; 42/- per week. Lakelands, \\'^aterhead : R., single, 2/6; double, 5/-; 6. or/., 2/-; /., 9^. ; d., 2/b. English takes. lO HOTELS AND TARIFFS [Abbreviations.— ff., bedroom; b., breakfast; I., luncheon; «., tea; rf., dinner; a., attendance ; /r., froml; ttmp., temperance.] Bampton. Crown and Mitre : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/6; b., i/o ; /., 2/-; t., i/- ; cl., 2/6 ; a., i/-. Boarding terms : 42/- per week. Motor Garage. Barrow-in-Furness. Furness Abbey. Duke of Edinburgh : R., single, 4/- ; double, 6/- ; b., 2/- ; /., 2/- ; /., i/-; rf-, 3/-; «•, nil- Boarding terms : 8/6 per day ; 55/- per week ; 13/- week-end. Imperial : R., single, 4/- ; double, 7/-; 6., fr. 1/9; Z., fr. 2/-; t.,ir, 1/9 ; J9a. ®NE Minute's Walk from Station. Overlooking Lake and Ruskin's late home. Baths (H. and C). Cook's Coupons accepted. Oflficially Appointea R.A.A and M.U. Garage. Posting. Coaches to all parts of District call daily. Fishing Tackle and Boats. Charges Moderate. Special Week-end Terms. TariS on application. Headquarters Fell Rock Club, English Lake District. A. SATTERTHWAITE, Proprietress. CONISTON. 'FAIRFIELD' (Temp) Hotel (Opposite the Church). Five minutes from Station. Two minutes from Ruskin Museum. Ten minutes from Gondola Pier. Coaches pass the Hotel to all parts of the Lake District. C.T.C. Quarters. Lunches and Teas pre- pared for the Furness Railway Co.'s Blackpool ■■md Fleetwood Outer and Inner Tours. Parties Catered for. TariS on application. Moderate Terms. Mrs. R. W. REDHEAD. Proprietress. English Lakts, to face page lo] MORECAMBE. LOTHERSDALE BOARDING HoUSE, PROMENADE. FACING SEA. Unrivalled View of Sea, and Lake Dis- trict Mountains. Situated between centre Pier and Tower Gardens. Few minutes from Golf Links. Moderate and In- clusive Terms. Private Apartments During Winter. Mrs. HUDSON, Proprietress. FAR SAWREY, NR. WINDERMERE. SAWREY HOTEL CHARMINGLY situated in a most sheltered position, half way betAveen Winder- mere & Esthwaite Lakes. A nice [)lace for a quiet lioliday. Excellent Perch and Pike h'ishing in Esth- waite Lake ; Boat provided. Coaches from Windermere to Coniston call at the Hotel during Season. Teas, Luncheons, &c., proxided. Garage and Stabling. Terms reasonable, on application to JAMES ROWE. Proprietor. Route vin Lakeside to Ferry, or Wiiulmncn-, L. & N.VV. RIy., across Lake to Ferry. HOTELS AND TARIFFS 11 Abbkeviations. — R., bedroom ; b., breakfast ; I., luncheon ; «., tea ; d., a., attendance; fr., from; temp., temperance.] Kendal. dinner ; Ennerdale. Anglers' Inn : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 3/6; b., 1/6; I., 2/-; t., I/-; d., 2/6 ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 7/- per day ; 42/- per week. Garage. Grange-over-Sands. Crown : R., single, 2/6 ; double, fr. 3/-; b., 2/-; I., 2/-; t., fr. i/-; rf., fr. 2/6. Boarding terms : fr. 7/- per day ; 49/- per week ; 15/- per week- end. Hazlewood Hydro : R., single, 3/- ; double, 5/-; 6., 2/6; ?., 2/6; ^., I/- ; d., 3/-. Boarding terms : fr. 56/- per week ; 17/- per week-end. Motor Garage. Dent's (private) : R., single, 2/- ; double, 4/- ; b., fr. i/- ; I., fr. 1/6 ; ^., fr. 6d. ; d., fr. 2/- ; a., 6^. Boarding terms : fr.';6/6 per day ; fr. 42/- per week; 11/6 per week-end. Motor Garage. Kent's Bank : R., single, 2/- ; b., fr. 2/- ; /., fr. 2/6 ; t., i/-. Boarding terms : fr. 6/- per day ; fr. 40/- per week ; fr. 13/- per week-end. Motor Garage. Grasmere. Red Lion : R., single, 3/- to 4/6 ; double, 3/6 to 5/6 ; b., fr. i/- ; /., 2/- to 2/6 ; t., i/- to 2/- ; d., 3/6 to 4/6. Boarding terms : 8/6 to 10/6 per day ; 49/- to 63/- per week. Motor Garage. Swan : R., single, fr. 2/6 ; double, fr. 4/-;6.,fr. I/-; I., 2/-; t.Jr.i/-; a., fr. 2/6. Boarding terms : 7/6 per day. Motor Garage. Hawkshead. Queen's Head. Red Lion. Heversham, Blue Bell. Eagle and Child. King's Arms : R., single, 2/6 ; double, fr. 3/6; b.,2/-; /., 2/6 ; t., i/-; rf.,fr. 3/6; rt., 1/6 per day. Boarding terms : 9/6 per day ; 63/- per week; 15/- per week- end. Motor Garage. CommerciaL Railway. Brooks's Waverley (temp.). Keswick. Keswick : R., single, fr. 4/- ; double, fr. 8/-; b., 2/6; L, 2/6; t., i/- ; d., 5/-. Motor Garage. Lodore : R., single, fr. 4/- ; double, fr.7/6; 6.or/.,fr.2/6; t.,i/-; d., 4/6 ; a., nil. Boarding terms : fr. 10/6 per day; fr. 70/- per week. Garage. Royal Oak: R., single, fr. 3/-; double, fr. 5/6; I., 2/6; i., i/- ; rf., fr. 3/6 ; a., nil. Bofl^-^mgi^rws .• fr. 9/-perday ; 60/- per week. Garage. Queen's : R., single, fr. 3/- ; double, fr.5/-; 6., 2/6; i.,2/6; /.,fr. I/-; rf., 3/6 ; a., nil. Boarding terins : fr. 10/6 per day; fr. 52/6 per week. Garage. County : R., single, 3/- ; double, 4/- ; b. or l, 2/- ; ^, i/- ; rf., 3/6 ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 8/6 per day ; 56/- per week. Garage. Lake : R., single, 2/6 ; double, fr. 3/6; 6., fr. 1/6; /., fr. 2/-; ^., fr. i/- ; d.,ii.2/6; a., i/- per day. Boarding terms : fr. 7/6 per day. Garage. Skiddaw (temp.) : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/- ; b. or /., 2/- ; f., i/- d., 3/- ; «•, !/-• Boarding tertns : 8/- per day ; fr. 52/6 per week ; 16/- per week-end. Waverley (boarding) : R. and b., fr. 2/6; /., 1/6; t., 8d.; d., 1/9. Boarding terms : 5/- per day. Albion (temp.) : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 3/6 ; b., 1/6 ; I., 2/- ; t., i/- ; d., 3/- ; a., bd. Boarding terms : 7/6 per day 49/- per week ; 12/- per week- end. Motor Garage. Balmoral (boarding), Lake Road : 5/- per day ; 30/- per week. 12 HOTELS AND TARIFFS IAbbkeviations. — R., bedroom; h., breakfast; I., luncheon; «., tea; d., dinner; a., attendance ; jr., fromr lemp., temperance.] Kirkby Lonsdale. Fleece. Royal ; R., single, 3/- ; double, 5/- ; b.,ir. 2/-; r, fr. 2/-; t., fr. i/-; d; 3/-- Boarding tcrnis : fr. 8/6 per day. Motor Garage. Sun. Waverley (temp.) : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/-; b., i/b ; I., 1/6; ^, 1/-; d., 2/-; a., brf. Boarding terms : 3/6 per day ; 32/- per week ; 10/- per week- end. Lake Side. Lake Side. Lancaster. County : i?., single, 4/6; double, 8/-; b.,3/-; '-.2/6; t.,iT.i/6; d.,5/-. Boarding terms : 73/- per week. Elm House (temp.) : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/6; b., 1/6; I., 2/-; t., 1/6 ; d., 2/-. Mardale. Dun Bull: R., single, 2/6; double, 3/-; b., 1/9; /., 1/9; <•, i/-; '^M 2/6. Boarding terms: 7/- per day; 42/- per week; fr. 12/6 per week-end. Milnthorpe. Cross Keys. Coward's (temp.). Morecambe. Grosvenor. The Elms : R., single, 4/-; double, 7/-; b. or /., 2/6; 1;., fr. i/-; (/., 4/6 ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 9/- per day ; 63/- per week ; 18/- per week- end. Atlantic (private) : R., single, 2/- ; double, 4/-; b., 1/6; /., 1/6; t., 6d. ; rf., 2/-. Boarding terfns : fr. 6/- per day ; fr. 42/- per week; 13/6 per week-end. Motor Garage. Lotbersdale. Nether Wasdale. strands (private). Allonby's (temp.) : R., single, 2/- ; double, fr. 3/-; b. or I., i/b; t., gd. ; d., 2/6. Boarding terms : 5/- per day ; 35/- per week; 12/6 per week- end. Newby Bridge. Swan : R., single, 4/- ; double 7/- ; b., 2/6; /., 2/6; t., I/-; d., 5/-. Boarding terms : 10/6 per day ; 73/6 per week ; 21/- per week- end. Motor Garage. Patterdale. Ullswater. Patterdale, Ullswater : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/- ; b., 2/- ; I., 2/- ; /., i/-; d., 3/-; a., i/-. Boarding terms : 7/6 per day ; 52/6 per week ; 15/- per week- end. Milcrest's. Penrith. George : R., single, 4/- ; double, fr. 7/-; b., 2/6; ;., 2/6; t., I/-; d., 3/6. Boarding terms : 11/- per day. Motor Garage. Crown : R., single, 3/6 ; double, 6/- ; 6., 2/6; /., 2/6; <.,!/-; d.,s/b. Boarding terms : fr. 9/- per day. Motor Garage. Station: i?.,single, 2/6 ; double, 4/-; b., 1/6; I., 1/6; t., fr. 9£f. ; d., fr. 2/- ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 6/6 per day ; 42/- per week ; 10/6 per week- end. Graham's Castle (temp.). Pooley Bridge (Ullswater). Crown : R., single,'2/- ; double, 3/- ; b., 1/6; I., 2/-; t., I/-; d., 2/-; a., nil. Boarding terms : 5/- per day ; 12/6 per week-end. Motor Garage. Sun Inn. Portinscale. Tower (private). Ravenglass. Pennington Arms. HOTELS AND TARIFFS 13 [Abbreviations. — R., bedroom ; b., breakfast ; I., luncheon ; t., tea ; d., dinner ; a., attendance ; /r., fronj|; temp., temperance.] Rosthwaite. Scawfell : R., single, fr. 3/- ; double, fr. 4/- ; b. or /., fr. 2/- ; t., fr. i/- ; d., fr. 2/6. Boarding terms : it. 7/6 per day. Motor Garage. St. Bees. Albert. Queen's: R., single, 2/6; double, 4/-; 6., 1/9 ; i-, 1/9; <•, 1/6; ^., 2/6 ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 6/- per day ; 40/- per week ; 10/6 per week- end. Seacote : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 5/- ; b., 2/-; /., 2/-; ^, 1/3 ; d., 3/-; a., 9(f. Boarding terms : fr. 47/6 per week. Seascale. Scafell. Inzievar {private). Seathwaite (Dunnerdale). Newfleld House. Silverdale. Royal : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 4/- ; b., fr. i/- ; /., fr. 1/6 ; t., it. 1/- ; d., 2/6. Boarding terms : fr. 5/6 per day ; 42/- per week ; 14/- per week- end. Motor Garage. Silverdale. Strands. strands (temp.) Strands Inn. Tebay. Cross Keys. Boarding terms : 5/- per day ; 35/- per week ; 10/- per week-end. Motor Garage. Junction : R., single, 2/- ; b., fr. i/- ; /., fr. 1/6 ; t., fr. 6d. ; d., fr. 2/-. Boarding terms : fr. 5/6 per day ; fr- 37/- per week ; 12/- per week-end. Thirlspot. King's Head: i?.,single, 2/6 ; double, 3/6; b.ovl.,2/-; t.,i/-; d., 3/-. Boarding terms : 7/6 per day ; 45/- per week. Garage. SeatoUer. Seatoller House (private). Shap. Grreyhound : R, single, 2/6 ; double, 4/-; b., 1/6; I., 2/-; t., i/-; d., 2/6 ; a., i/-. Boarding terms : 7/- per day ; 42/- per week; 14/- per week- end. Motor Garage. King's Arms. Shap Wells : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 4/-; b., 2/-; I., 2/-; !!., i/-; rf., fr. 3/- ; a., nil. Boarding terms : fr. 7/- per day ; fr. 49/- per week ; fr. 17/- per week-end. Threlkeld. Salutation. Horse and Farrier. Troutbeck (Westmorland). Mortal Man : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 3/6; b., 1/6; I., 2/-; t., i/-; d., 2/6. Boarding terms : 6/6 per day ; 42/- per week ; 12/6 per week- end. Motor Garage. Queen's Head. Troutbeck (Cumberland). Troutbeck. H HOTELS AND TARIFFS [Abbbeviatiokb. — JR., bedroom; b., breakfast; I., limcheon ; /., tea; d., dinner a., attendaute ; ;r., Irom.; teinp., temi erance.] Ulverston. Conishead Priory Hydro : I., 2/6 ; L, i/- ; d., 3/6 ; a., bd. Boarding terms : fr. 9/-per day ; fr. 63/- per week ; 18/- per week-end. Motor Garage. Sun. Martin's (temp.) : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/6; b., 1/6; I., 1/6; d., 2/-. Boarding terms : fr. 4/6 per day., Wasdale Head. Wilson's {temp.), Middle Row : R., single, 2/-; double, 3/-; b., 1/9; /., 1/6; t., I/-; d., 2/6. Boarding terms : 5/- per day ; 35/- per week; 15/- per week- end. Wastwater. Windermere. Belsfleld (Bowness) : R., single, fr. 4/6 ; double, fr. 8/- ; b., 3/- ; I., 3/-; t., I/-; d., 5/-. Boarding terms : fr. 84/- per week. Motor Garage, i/-. Rigg's Crown (Bowness) : R., single, fr. 4/-; double, fr. 7/-; b., 2/6; i., 2/6 ; t., fr.i/- ; ^., 4/6 ; «., nil. Boarding terms : fr. 10/- per day; fr. 70/- per week ; fr. 21/- per week-end. Motor Garage. Hydropathic (Bowness). Boarding terms : fr. 9/- per day ; fr. 56/- per week. Rigg's Windermere: R., single, f;. 4/b ; double, fr. 9/-; b., 2/6; /. , 2/6 ; t.,}l-\ d., 4/6. Boarding terms : fr. 10/6 per day ; fr. 73/6 per week. Motor Garage. Sawrey, Far Sawrey : R., single, 2/6 ; double, fr. 3/6 ; b., fr. 1/6 ; /., fr. 2/- ; t., fr. i/- ; rf., fr. 3/- ; a., i/-. Boarding terms : fr. 7/6 per day ; 50/- per week ; fr. 15/6 per week-end. Motor Garage. St. Martin's (Bowness). Boarding terms: fr. 6/6 per day; fr. 45/6 per week ; 15/6 per week-end. Waverley (temp.): R., single, 2/-; double, 3/- ; b., fr. i/- ; I., 2/- ; t., fr. i/- ; ^. fr. 2/- ; a., bd. per day. Boarding terms : 7/- per day ; 42/- per^week ; 15/6 per week- end. Christopherson's (temp.), Main Road : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 3/6 ; b., fr. I/-; I., fr. 1/6; t., fr. i/- ; ! n -ii-:- •i■^^-••^■■■y••.v-■v•v;:^■!\■•^•:^l•^•^;;:•0.' '• :^ 'I'm iTi .S '■'/•?■■!''■•■■ . " .^' •• - ■ .' V I •• ^.:•••••■^;•;■v;v^■•■ ■■;■■;;■.■,.■ '\: J:- ■■■■■: ■^'■^^ ; ^ n^fVr^.;: 'areas covered bv ti/e shilling guides to tub. exjtish islce. {See List on next page.) HALF-CROWN HANDBOOKS. Continental, Belgium. Holland. Norway. Paris and Environs (also in i/- series). Rome. Switzerland^ British. English Lake District. London (with complete Index to Streets). North Wales (Northern and Southern Sections com- bined). The above are issued in superior ck/th gtlt binding, with moi a maps than in the i/- editions. V» WARD, LOCK a Co.'s SHILLING GUIDE BOOKS ENGLAND AND WALES. Aberystwyth Leamingtftn, Warwick, fte. Aldeburjfh-on-Sea Littlehampton and S.W. Sussex Anglesey and North Wale* Liverpool, Birkenhead, ice. Banifor, &c. Llandrindod Wells, &e. Barmouth, &c. Llandudno and N. Wales Barnstaple and N.W. Deron Llangollen, Corwen, Bala, Bath, Wells, &c. Looe and South Cornwall Bett\(rs-y-Coed, Snowdon, &o. London and Environs Bexhili and District Lowestoft and District Bideford, Westward Ho J &o. Lyme Begis and District Boffnor and 8.W. Sussex Lynton and Lysmouth Bournemouth and District Malvern and District Brecon and South Wales Margate and N.E. Kent Bridllnston and District Matlook, Dovedale, &c. Bridport, West Bay. fto. Minebead, Ex moor, Sco. Brighton and Hove Newqaay and N. Cornwall Broads, The Nottingham and District Broadstairs and V.E. Kent Paignton and 8. Devon Bade and North Cornwall Fenmaeamawr, Llanfairfechan, ftc Budlelffh Saltertoo. &e. Penzance and West Cornwall Buxton and Peak District Plymouth and S.W. Devon Canterbury and N.E. Kent Pwllheli and Cardigan Bay Cardiff and South Wales Ramsgate, Sandwich, &c Oamaryon and North Wales Rhyl and N. Wales Channel Islands Ripon and District Chichester and 8.W. Sassez St. Ives and W. Cornwall Clevedon and District Scarborough and District Colwyn Bay Seaford. Newhaven, &o. Conway, Deganwy, &e. Seaton and District Criccieth and Cardigan Bay Shoringham, Runton, fto. Cromer and District Sherwood Forest Dartmoor Sidmouth and S.E. Devon Dawlish and B.E. Devon Southwold and District Deal, Walmer. &c. 8tratford>upon-Avon Dover, St. Margaret's Bay &«. Swanage, Corfe, &o. Dovercourt, Harwich, &c. Teignmouth and S.E. Devon Eastbourne, Seolord, &c. Tenby and South Wales Exeter and S.E. Devon Thames, The Exmonth and Distiict Torquay and District Falmouth and 8. Cornwall Towyn, Aberdovey, &e. Felixstowe and District Wales, North {Northern Section) Filey and District Wales, North (Southern Section) Folkestone, Sandgate, &c. Wales, South Fowey and South Cornwall Warwick. Kenilworth, &o. Harrogate and District Wells, Olastonbury, &o. Hastings, St. Leonards, &c. Weston-super-Mare Hereford and Wye Valley Weymouth and District Heme Bay, Whitstable. &o. Whitby and District Hyth^ Littlestone, &c. Worcester and District Dfracombe and N. Devon Worthing and S.W. Sossex Isle ol Man Wye Valley Isle et Wight Yarmouth and tha Broads Lake District , The SCOTLAND. IRELAND. Aberdeen, Deeside, &o. Antrim, Giant's Causeway, &o. Edinburgh and District Belfast, Moome Mountains. &o. Glasgow and the Clyde Cork, GlengariS, &c. Highlands, The Donegal Highlands Inverness and N. Highlands DubUn and Co. Wieklow. Oban and W. Highlands KiUarney and S.W. Ireland Londonderry and N. Ireland Half-crown Handbooks. ConHnenttU. BrUUh. Belginm Lake District, The Holland London (with additional maps and com- Norway plete Index to Stre«t«j Paris and Environs [alio at U.) North Wales (Northern and Sonthern Borne Sections oonabined) Swi tier land NOTICE TO VISITORS. FISHING TACKLE Rods, Flies, Casts, Etc. WALKING STICKS. MOUNTAIN POLES, Spirit Stoves, Kettles, DMing Cups, BATHS ON HIRE. MOTOR SPIRIT & SUPPLIES. BANKS & PARK, IRONMONGERS, MARKET PLAGE, KESWICK. Also at COCKERMOUTH. English Lakes, 1915-16.] WINDERMERE, Crescent Road. THE WAVERLEY A Comfortable TEMPERANCE HOTEL. C"^ OOD Centre for Visitors, Tourists, and Cyclists. Three J minutes' walk from Windermere Railway Station, and almost opposite New Post Office. Baths (H. and C). Terms Moderate. Coach Bookings to all parts of the District. Mrs. R. HARRISON, Proprietress. An Alphabetically arranged List of Hotels, Boarding Establishments House 5r Estate Agents At the Principal Holiday and Health Resorts will be found at the end of this Guide. PATTERDALE, PENRITH. ULLSWATER HOTEL J3 60 ilea o . ^ o 4) .P- O „ 60 m2 02° . o u rt O O -< to iPNLARGED and Remodelled. One of the largest and best-situated ■*w Hotels in the district, bordering on Ullswater, which is unquestion- ably the Lake which combines the greatest variety of scenery. Helvellyn and Airey Force are within a short distance. Steamer arrives and departs from the Hotel Grounds. THOMAS BOWNASS, Proprietor. ENGLISH LAKES. RIGG'S HOTELS ERE. RIGG'S WINDERMERE HOTEL, winderm Nearest Hotel in the Lake District to the West Coast Route to Scotland, Convenient to Windermere Railway Station (L. & N.W. Railwav). Telephone No. 6. Telegrams—" RIGGS, Windermere." *RICC'S CROWN HOTEL, =*'^~S,^Sd°e''bmere. Stands on an eminence, close to Lake, Steamer, and Boating Piers. Telephone No. 3. Telegrams—" CROWN, Windermere." BOWNESS-ON- WINDERMERE. Standing in extensive grounds, close to Lake, Steamer, and Boating Piers. Refurnished throughout by Waring and Gillow, Ltd. Telephone No. 23. Telegrams—" BELSFIELD, Wmdermere." ^Nearest Hotels to GoU Links. All the Hotels have the Electric Light Throughout, and have situations which command the finest views of Lake, Mountain, and Landscape Scenery. Good Accommodation for Motor Cars- Inspection Pits fitted with Electric Light. TARIFF sent on application. RICHARD RIGG, Proprietor. RIGG'S BELSFIELD HOTEL, COCKERMOUTH, KeSWIGK, AND Penrith Railway. Cumberland Lakes & Mountains LaHes: Dcrwcntwatcr, Buttcrmcrc, Crummock, Ullswater, Thirl- mere, and Bassenthwaite. Mountains: Skiddaw, Hclvcllyn, Scafcll, &c., &c. Golf Links: Emblcton, 18 Holes. Keswick, 9 Holes. THIS Railway affords the readiest access to the heart of the Lake District, and is in immediate connection with trains to all parts. Through arrangements with the London & North Western, North Eastern, iVIidland, Furness, and other Railways. TOURIST TICKETS from all principal Stations to Keswick, Troutbtxk (for Ullswater), and Cockerrnouth. CIRCULAR TOURS from Cockerrnouth and Keswick Stations to Patterdaie (Ullswater), Windermere, Ambleside, &c., by Rail, Coach, and Boats. COACHES run between Troutbeck Station and Patterdaie (Ullswater), daily during the Summer months. COACHES leave Keswick Station daily for Borrowdale and Butt«rmere over Honister Pass, passing on the way Barrow and Lodore Water- falls, and allowing sufficient time at Buttermere for visiting Scale Force WaterfaU. Particulars of Arrangements and Bookings on Company's Announcements. J. CLARK, Secretary and Manager, Keswick Station. To face Inltoduc/ioii] INTRODUCTORY. Area — Scope and Arrangement of Book — Early Writers — Routes to the Lakes — Lakeland Railways — Circular Tours — Coaches, Steamers, etc. — Suggestions for Week-End Tours — A Fortnight in Lakeland. THE " Lake District " proper has been defined as the " picturesque and mountainous region comprised within the counties of Westmorland and Cumberland and a small portion of Lancashire, within which are grouped as many as sixteen lakes or meres, besides innumerable mountain tarns and streams and a series of mountains rising in seven points to a height of over three thousand feet. The district extends about thirty miles from north to south, by about twenty-five from east to west " ; but for the benefit of visitors to this most inviting land our work covers a wider area, and some of the beautiful and interesting places beyond the defined boundary are dealt with. For the sake of lucidity and convenience we have divided the area covered by the Guide into two main districts, with sections as under. A glance at the Contents pages will, we trust, make the arrangement of the book quite clear. L The Central District. 1. The Southern or Windermere Section. 2. The Northern or Keswick Section. 3. The Eastern or Ullswater Section. 4. The Western District. 5. The Passes. II. The Border District. 1. The Coast Section. 2. The Inland Section. English Lakes (6) ^' i8 THE LAKE DISTRICT Gray, the poet, is generally credited with having " dis- covered " the Lake District, which he visited in 1769, and his journal, A Tour in the Lakes, was certainly the first book in which an attempt was successfully made to present a faithful idea of the rich and varied beauties of the country. Before his time all references to Lakeland by travellers were analogous to those of travellers in the Highlands of Scotland early in the eighteenth century — execrations of bad roads and perilous ascents and descents of rugged mountain paths and along the borders of meres and tarns. The very moun- tains themselves — now the glory of the land — were viewed with awe and described as objects of "horror," while the noble and expansive lakes and the small and lonely tarns, now immortal in verse and story, were " gloomy " and dangerous. Certainly Defoe's description is not inviting : "I now entered Westmorland, a county eminent only for being the wildest, most barren and frightful of any I have passed over in England or in Wales. The west side, which borders Cumberland, is indeed bounded by a chain of almost unpass- able mountains, which in the language of the country are called Fells." This sounds amusing nowadays ; but as Macaulay truly observed of the Scottish Highlands : " Law and police, trade and industry, have done far more than people of romantic dispositions will readily admit to develop in our minds a sense of the wilder beauties of nature. A traveller must be free from an apprehension of being murdered or starved before he can be charmed by the bold outlines or rich tints of the hills. He is not likely to be thrown into ecstasies by the abruptness of a precipice from which he is in imminent danger of falling two thousand feet perpen- dicular ; by the boiling waves of a torrent which suddenly whirls away his baggage and forces him to run for his hfe ; by the gloomy grandeur of a pass where he finds a corpse which marauders have just stripped and mangled ; or by the screams of those eagles whose next meal may probably be on his own eyes." It was, however, neither Gray, the poet, nor industrial progress, that " opened up " the Lake District, but Words- worth, Southey, the Coleridges (father and son), Wilson (" Christopher North "), De Quincey, and, afterwards, Mrs. RAILWAY FACILITIES 19 Hemans, Harriet Martineau, Arnold of Rugby, James Sped- ding, and the gifted Dorothy Wordsworth, the last-named in many ways one of the most charming of all that brilliant intellectual galaxy. But the •. greatest of all was William Wordsworth. Almost all that has since been penned about Lakeland has found its note of inspiration in his poems and in his " Description of the Scenery of the Lakes in the North of England " afterwards expanded as "A Guide Through the District of the Lakes in the North of England, etc., with a Description of the Scenery, for the use of Tourists and Residents." The subject is more fully pursued in a sub- sequent chapter {see p. 44). ROUTES TO THE LAKE DISTRICT. Tourists from the south have two great railway systems by which to reach the Lakes. The London and North- western Railway, after leaving Crewe, runs through Warring- ton, Preston and Lancaster to the edge of the district, afford- ing access to it at three principal points — namely, Cam- forth (where a junction is formed with the Furness Rail- way), Windermere, and Penrith (where a junction is formed with the Cockermouth, Keswick and Penrith Railway for the Keswick, or northern district). The Midland Railway (Settle and Carlisle line) runs through the lovely valleys of the Ribble and the Eden, giving access to the Lake District from Appleby or via Wennington and Carnforth in connection with the Furness Railway. Tourist Tickets, available for six calendar months, are issued all the year round from the principal railway stations to the Lake District centres, the holders being entitled to break the journey at any intermediate station on the Furness Railway between Carnforth and their destination. Weekly and Fortnightly Tickets from London (Euston and St. Pancras) and other large towns are issued during June, July, August, and September to many places of interest in the Lake District and to the principal coast stations on the Furness Railway. Cheap Week-end and Ten-Day Tickets are issued every Fri- day and Saturday. Circular Tours in the district itself are also run in connection with these companies. The Lanca- shire and Yorkshire and North- Western Railways afford many facilities for visiting the district around Kendal {see p. 175). For details as to fares and availability of tickets see the Tourist 20 LAKELAND RAILWAYS Programmes of the Midland and the London and North- Western Railway Companies, obtainable gratis at any of their stations. The fine steamers owned by the Midland Railway Company run daily, except Sundays, between Belfast and Heysham {vid Morecambe). Lakeland Railways. The Furness Railway, serving by its hnes and steamers nearly the whole of Lakeland, has in recent years, under energetic and progressive management, made great advances. Cheap travelling facilities are hberally provided, not only over the main lines but on branch lines, and a special feature is made of circular-tour tickets. From Carnforth Junction, where the Furness Railway joins the London and North- Western system, and where con- nections with the Midland are also given, the line skirts the southern and western coasts of the Lake District, throwing out a number of inland branches as it proceeds. After going northward to Arnside, and crossing two sandy estuaries and passing Grange-over-Sands on the north shore of More- cambe Bay, it reaches Ulverston, whence a branch runs to Lakeside, at the southern end of Windermere. The Company maintains an excellent service of steam yachts up the lake to Bowness and Ambleside, calling at Storrs, Ferry, and Low Wood piers. From Ulverston the main line turns southward to Furness Abbey and Barrow, then northward again to Foxfield, from which there is a branch to Coniston. Keeping now within a short distance of the coast, the line goes northward to Ravenglass, from which a narrow-gauge hue, the Raven- glass and Eskdale Railway (at present closed to passenger traffic), winds its way to Boot, near the southern foot of Scafell. Continuing northward, the Furness line on its way to Whitehaven connects at Sellafield with the Cleator Joint Lines which, though chiefly used for conveying the iron ore raised in the neighbourhood, provide a short route to Ennerdale Water and the Buttermere, Borrowdale, and Keswick districts. From Oxenholme, on the London and North- Western line, there is a branch, lo miles long, to Windermere, taking Kendal, Burneside, and Staveley en route. Another branch Lakes. LAKELAND RAILWAYS 21 of Jthe North- Western Railway connects the main hne at Low Gill Junction with Kirkby Lonsdale. Shap, on the London and North-Western main line, is a convenient station for, the Bampton, Hawes Water, and Mardale districts. From Penrith, also on the North-Western system, and connected with the North-Eastern Railway, the Cocker- mouth, Keswick and Penrith Railway runs westward to Keswick, thence to Workington, Maryport, and Whitehaven. This Company issues circular tickets at low rates from all stations on its line, enabling tourists to visit the district in the neighbourhood of Keswick, Penrith and Ullswater, and even Windermere. Through trains are run daily be- tween London and Cockermouth and Keswick during the season, affording every convenience to tourists. Similar facilities are afforded by the more northerly Mary- port and Carlisle Railway. Cheap Day Tickets to and from all pleasure resorts and principal stations on the Furness Railway are issued daily at about a single fare for the return journey, and Cheap Week- end Tickets every Friday, Saturday and Sunday the year round. The Company also issues Tourists' Weekly Tickets between certain groups of stations at a cheap rate. They are available for an unlimited number of journeys within seven days and are designed to enable the holders thoroughly to explore the beauties of the Lake District. Tickets are also issued for — Circular Tours by rail, coach and steamer, at moderate inclusive fares. Full particulars can be learned from Tours through the English Lakeland, issued gratuitously by the Furness Railway Com- pany. The tours are, generally speaking, in operation from Whitsuntide to September 30. The following are specimen tours : — Mo. 1. — Outer Circular Tour, embracing Windermere Lake, Furness Abbey, and Coniston. No. 2. — Inner Circular Tour, embracing Furness Abbey, Coniston Lake (by steam yacht Lady of the Lake or gondola), and the Crake Valley. No. 3* — Grange and Windermere Circular Tour, embracing Grange, Arnside, Kendal and Windermere Lake. No. 4. — Middle Circular Tour, embracing Windermere Lake, the Crake Valley and Coniston Lake. 22 CIRCULAR TOURS No. 5. — Red Bank and Grasmere Tour, via, Ambleside and Skelwith Force, returning via Rydal Water. No. 6. — Thirlmere, Grasmere, and Windermere Tour, via Ambleside, Clappersgate and Red Bank, and round Thirlmere Lake. No. 7. — The Four Lakes Circular Tour, viz.: — Coniston» Grasmere, Rydal, Windermere. No. 8. — Coniston to Coniston Tour, via Red Bank, Gras- mere and Ambleside. No. 9. — Tarn Hows Tour, via Ambleside and Coniston, returning via Tilberthwaite and Elterwater. No. 10. — Round the Langdales and Dungeon Gh^li Tour, \vid Ambleside, Colwith Force, Grasmere and Rydal. No. 11. — Ullswater Tour, via Ambleside, Kirkstone Pass and Brothers' Water, returning via the Vale of Trout- beck and Low Wood. No. 12. — Derwentwater (Keswick) Tour, via Ambleside, Grasmere, and Thirlmere. No. 13. — The Five Lakes Circular Tour, viz.: — Windermere, Rydal, Grasmere, Thirlmere and Derwentwater. No. 14. — Wastwater Tour, via Seascale and Gosforth. No. 15. — The Six Lakes Circular Tour, viz.: — Wind rmere, Rydal, Grasmere, Thirlmere, Derwentwater and Ullswater. No. 16. — The Duddon Valley Tom, via Broughton-in-Furness, Ulpha and Seathwaite. No. 17. — Eskdale Valley Tour, via Seascale, Holmrook, and Stanley Ghyll, returning via Santon Bridge and Gosforth. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays only. No. 18. — Cartmel Priory and Newby Bridge Tour, via Winder- mere (Lake Side) and Grange. No. 19. — Ennerdaie Lake and Crummock Waters Tours. — To Ennerdaie Lake via St. Bees and Woodend, returning by Egremont Castle, daily ; and to Crummock Water, via St. Bees and Loweswater, on Thursdays only. No. 20. — George Romney*s Early Home, Walney Bridge and Island, and Furness Abbey Tour. — George Rom- ney's Early Home (1742 to 1755) at Barrow-in- Furness, and Furness Abbey, via Sowerby Woods. Working in connection with the Midland Railway, the Furness Railway Company run a number of composite corridor carriages in circuit between Whitehaven and Leeds, Bradford, etc. Through carriages are also run in connec- COACHES AND STEAMERS 23 tion with the London and North-Western Railway between London, Manchester, and Liverpool, etc. The Company also owns the popular paddle-steamers Lady Moyra and Lady Evelyn, which have achieved much success in establishing the service between Blackpool and the Lakes via Fleetwood and Barrow. These steamers are capable of carrying 1,000 and 700 passengers respectively, and make frequent trips daily between Fleetwood and Barrow during the season. A through train is run from Manchester, Blackburn, Bolton, etc., to Fleetwood each morning in connection with the steamer, with through circular tour bookings for the Lakes. The steamers are well built, with excellent saloon accommodation, and are admirably adapted for the large excursion traffic with which they deal. Coaches and Carriages. The coaching arrangements in the district are excellent and the charges very moderate. We have heard a tourist complain of having to pay 6s. for a drive of 25 miles through magnificent scenery, but we confess to no sympathy whatever with such grumblers. The carriage fares also are not dear, They are chiefly a matter of arrangement, but will be generally found to work out at about is. 3^. a mile for a single horse and IS. gd. for a pair (in the Border districts, is. and is, 6d. a mile), the charge covering the whole distance and the driver's fee. There is a large and increasing pubhc motor service between the principal centres. For those who are unequal to the fatigue of ascending the mountains, or crossing the more rugged passes, ponies and guides are available at moderate charges. Steamers, A constant service of steamboats runs on Lakes Winder- mere, Ullswater, Coniston, and Derwentwater, and electric launches and motor boats ply during the season. SUGGESTIONS FOR WEEK-END TOURS. Carriage Excursions. The Lake District should, if possible, be approached from the South, i.e. via Windermere. Routes and details are given elsewhere {see Index). 24 WEEK-ENDS IN LAKELAND Saturday. Drive from Windermere to Keswick. If possible, write in advance, endeavouring to book a seat on one of the coaches returning from Ambleside to Keswick in the afternoon. This course allows time in the morning for a voyage up and down Windermere. If this cannot be done, the drive round Bassenthwaite from Keswick should be taken in the afternoon. Sunday afternoon. At Keswick. The ascent of Latrigg ; the walk to Rosthwaite vid Watendlath (13 miles) ; or a visit to Friars Crag, Castle Head, and Walla Crag. Any of these can comfortably be done in an afternoon. Monday. The Honister Round. Week-end tickets, as a rule, last from midnight on Thursday to Tuesday evening. If the two additional days are available, they should be thus occupied. Friday. The round of the Langdales. Tuesday. Keswick to Patterdale by Troutbeck. Steamer down UUswater, joining the railway at Penrith. Pedestrian Excursions. Saturday. From Windermere by public conveyance to Greismere or Wythburn. From the former ascend Helvellyn by Grisedale Pass ; from the latter by the ordinary route from the Nag's Head Inn. Descend in either case at Thirlspot, from which walk to Keswick. Sunday afternoon. At Keswick. Walk to Rosthwaite by Borrowdale or continue to Buttermere by the Honister Pass. Monday. From Rosthwaite the coach gives a lift for a mile (as far as SeatoUer) ; or from Buttermere ascend Great Gable. Ascend from Rosthwaite by the " drum house " from Honister Hause ; from Buttermere by Warnscale Bottom. Ascend Great Gable if possible. Thence by Angle Tarn and Rossett Ghyll to Langdalc, reaching Grasmere by Hunting Stile. At Grasmere a conveyance to Windermere can generally be secured. A FORTNIGHT IN LAKELAND. Carriage Excursions. (Allowing four days to a week.) 1. From Windermere. The round of the Langdales. 2. UUswater by Kirkstone Pass. A FORTNIGHT IN LAKELAND 25 3. Coniston by Hawkshead. 4. The Furness Round. 5. Windermere to Keswick. 6. From Keswick — The Honister Round. 7. Round Bassenthwaite. 8. Round Derwentwater. Four days are thus left over. If available (allowanceps made for possible fatigue or " impossible " weather) they may be thus employed : — 1. Stock Ghyll Force and Wansfell. 2. Grasmere, walking by Rydal Vale and Loughrigg Terrace, returning by public conveyance. 3. A visit to Watendlath, returning by coach, or the ascent of Latrigg. 4. Coach excursion, 9 or 10, from Keswick [see p. 120), if possible ; if not, Friars Crag, Castle Head and Walla Crag in the morning ; Latrigg in the afternoon. Pedestrian Tour. We would recommend the pedestrian to start from Coniston. Of course, the round can be made, mutatis mutandis, from any other centre within the four sections of the Central District. 1. Coniston to Windermere by Hawkshead. 2. Windermere to Hawes Water by 111 Bell and Thorn- thwaite Crag. 3. Hawes Water to Patterdale by High Street. 4. Patterdale to Keswick by Helvellyn. 5. Keswick to Wast water by Great Gable. 6. Wastwater to Langdale by Scafell Pike, Eskhause and Rossett Ghyll. 7. Langdale to Grasmere by Pikes, Pavey Ark, and Ease- dale. 8. Grasmere to Ambleside by Fairfield and Rydal (for Windermere Station). Four days are left, which will be all too easily filled by mountain ascents. The best divergence is to Buttermere and the traverse of the Buttermere Fells from Scale Force to Scarf Gap. Others we would specially recommend are Grassmoor, Scafell from Wastwater, Bowfell from Eskhause over Crinkle Crags to Wrynose Pass, and Coniston Old Man. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. Climate — Times and Seasons — Geology — The 'Statesmen — Natural History — Dimensions of Lakes — Heights of Passes — Mountain Groups. Climate. THERE is a popular delusion that because the Lake District contains the wettest inhabited spot in England it always rains there. Many jests have been made on the subject. The brothers Smith, of Rejected Addresses repute,, wrote that — " Not one day In a Lake-week deserves the name of Sunday," and James Payn waxed facetious about waterproofs, suggest- ing that one might as well offer such an article to a family of otters. Mountain districts are naturally wet, and when it rains in Lakeland it very often does rain, sufficient in an hour to satisfy a London rain-gauge for a day. On the other hand, there are often spells of beautifully fine weather, and in all our long experience we cannot recollect being kept in for two successive days by the wet. One remark we have often heard — that the weather cannot spoil the Lakeland scenery. This is very true, as Wordsworth pointed out long ago {see p. 45), unless the view be blotted out by rain or mist. To appreciate the beauties of the district one must see them in haze, cloud, and even storm, as well as in the glory of sunshine. One reason indeed why the tourist is seldom stormbound in Lakeland is that the dwellings, even in the remotest fell- heads, are rarely eight hundred feet above sea-level, and that mountain conditions such as wreck holidays in many ele- vated districts simply do not occur. The climate in the valleys is mild but not unhealthy. We have said that when it rains it dpes rain ; to this may be 26 TIMES AND SEASONS— GEOLOGY 27 added that when it blows it does blow. A fellside gale is a thing to be respected, and people who have not experienced •its violence can have little conception of the force and fury of the wind. It is often impossible to stand upright against it. Times and Seasons. At what season should one visit the Lakes ? Our reply is at any time : they are always beautiful. Fine weather^ of course, cannot be guaranteed, but of the spring and summer months we have generally found the end of May and early June and the middle of September freest from wet. Spring in Lakeland is lovely, but lovelier in our opinion is the season^ of the changing leaf. On no account should one omit to visit, if it be possible, Lakeland when — " Their wintry garments of unsullied snow, The mountains have put on : the heavens are clear, And yon dark lake spreads silently below. Who sees them only in their summer hour Sees but their beauty half ; and knows but half their power.' See Wordsworth's opinion on this question (pp. 44-5). Geology. We propose briefly to refer to the geological features of the country, more particularly in relation to agriculture.. The best account appeared in a Parliamentary Blue Book (C — 7915. — I), one of the reports of the Royal Commission on Agriculture, the writer being the late Mr. Coleman. Refer- ring to Cumberland and Westmorland, where the geological formations are very similar, he states that : — " The north-east side of the county consists of mountain limestone which is generally elevated, and includes a con- siderable portion of the Cross Fells, or Pennine Range, which is commonly known as the backbone of England. The ground is highest at or near the eastern side, and gradually declines to the west, the soil at the base of the mountain being frequently very fertile. On the south-western edge of the limestone spots of old red sandstone appear, but they are very limited in area. The middle portion of the county is chiefly on the Permian sandstone ; this is all flat, or gently undulating, and the surface is very variable, according to the influence of drift materials. The Permian is comparatively narrow on the southern boundary, but extends in a semicircu- 28 GEOLOGY lar direction, nearly due west, to Maryport, and from thence north-west, bounded by the Channel, Sol way Firth, and Scotch Dyke, to Penton station o-n the North British Railway. This is, on the whole, a fine agricultural district, watered by the river Eden, and some minor streams. New red sandstone is found adjoining the alluvial deposits formed from the Sol- way Firth. " Joining the Permian on the south and west is a narrow ■band of the coal measures, which follows the coast to beyond Whitehaven, and further south is another belt of Permian ■sandstone, which extends to near Ravenglass, and the rest of the county is occupied with slate rocks, metamorphic granite, etc. Here is some of the finest of the lake scenery, including Derwentwater, Buttermere, Crummock Water, Ennerdale, Wastwater, Thirlmere, and half of Uliswater. The moun- tains are extremely beautiful, although in many cases so pre- cipitous and bare that only the hardy Herdwick sheep can thrive. A very rough analysis gives the proportion as follows : Cross Fell range, and adjoining limestone, 230,000 acres ; new red sandstone, 305,000 acres ; Lake District, including -coalfields, 435,161 acres. " It will thus be seen that much of the larger part of the county, over two-thirds, comprises mountain land with fertile valleys between. In Westmorland, on the east, joining Dur- ham and Yorkshire, there are large tracts of mountain lime- stone, much of which is elevated into numerous ranges, and again more in the centre of the county, and, as it were, ■wrapping round a narrow tract of Permian sandstone, which starts at Kirkby Stephen and follows the vallej^ of the Eden to Penrith, widening out as it gets north, but never exceeding five or six miles. The mountain limes-tone is again seen in the south-western portion of the county below Kendal. The rest of the county is made up of various slate rocks, granite, etc. " The county is cut in two across its centre from east to west by a backbone of mountains and high ground, stretching from the head of Grasmere by Shap Fell, Ash Fell, etc., to the Pennine Chain, pierced by several passes, one of which is at Shap. This high land determines the watershed of the count5\ The waters north of this ridge run into the Eden, etc., and so to the Solway Firth, whilst those to the south by the Lune and Kent Valleys, etc., empty into Morecambe Bay. " The old red sandstone formation appears near Kendal, and extends from above Tebay through Shap Fells and Shap to Rosgiil, separating the mountain limestone from the slate Tocks. The soils are exceptionally fertile. The mere enu- meration of the geological formations which are undoubtedly THE 'STATESMEN 29. found at a greater or less depth beneath the surface by no means suffices for a description of the soils. Large portions, of both counties are elevated into hills and mountains, which reach, in some few cases, over three thousand feet. The valleys are often covered over, often to great depths, with drift materials, which have come greater or less distances ; hence we have a great variety and that often in a limited area ; nay, even in the same field." The 'Statesmen. When, in 1797, Pringle wrote his report on the state of agriculture in Westmorland, a large proportion of the land was in the hands of " 'Statesmen," men whose farms have descended to them in an unbroken line from ancestors wha were originally granted the land in feudal times on condition of service to their lords and the king. The holdings were mostly small, ranging from ;^io to ^^50, occasionally rising to ;^ioo a year of annual value. The late Mr. Coleman wrote : — " There was a time, when these men were a flourish- ing part of the community; and, reared in habits of thrift and industry, their offshoots went out into the world and in not a few cases built up large fortunes in trade, fre- quently returning to their native county, there to found families which became famous. This much-respected class has gradually disappeared ; a few only remain, principally in the mountain dales. However we may regret the change, it appears to have been inevitable. Land is an expensive luxury, not a profitable investment. As civilization pro- gressed, and the cost of living increased, returns were not proportionately advanced. The land became gradually burdened with charges, and, often suffering in condition, was eventually parted with, going as a rule to swell the larger estates. Nor as regards the public advantage need such a result be lamented, for it is quite certain that flourishing tenantry under a liberal and wealthy owner are far more productive than owners whose means are too straitened to allow of the proper application of capital. Probably the most complete illustration of this change is seen in the late Earl of Bective's fine property at Underley, which comprises about 25,000 acres, of which a considerable portion is hill land. A large part of this property was formerly owned by small proprietors, mostly 'statesmen. These men held on as long as possible, and were eaten up by debts and charges, and the soil wretchedly impoverished. The trustees of the late Alderman Thomson, who himself 30 THE 'STATESMEN^NATURAL HISTORY sprang from a 'statesman family, bought up the farms by degrees, and there is still money waiting similar investment. In many instances the former owners continued as tenants ; and when the land was drained and limed, and proper build- ings erected, these men, who were formerly hard up, gradually became well-to-do farmers." This is not the place to discuss the politico-economic bear- ing of such an industrial revolution, but the general results are beyond dispute. The productive value of the land has more than doubled ; the farming class are better housed and do not work like galley-slaves as their forefathers did ; they are more prosperous, a Lakeland farmer in the Bankruptcy Court being a rarity ; and the condition of the labouring classes is now on a much higher level than in most parts of the country. With regard to land cultivation, stock-raising, and dairying, great progress has been made, and that has been the result, first, of the wisely-directed liberality of the great landowners, the enterprise and energy of the farmers, and the spread of more enlightened views in the matter of what is termed " high-farming." Further pro- gress is going on in the same direction, mainly through the experimental work of the Count}'- Councils, and largely also by the excellent teaching at the great Agricultural College at Aspatria, Cumberland. Natural History. The Lake District, from its natural configuration, the lengthy and varied sweep of coast from Morecambe Bay to Whitehaven, with many beautiful river and beck estuaries ; its richly wooded valleys and sheltered streams ; its large and smaller lakes and meres and lonely tarns ; its high and rugged mountains and great stretches of upland fell-land, was naturally at one time perhaps richer than any other part of England in the number and variety of its fauna. Happily it is even yet, in many parts, still well favoured in that respect, and the commendable action of the County Councils in putting into force the Wild Birds Protection Acts has restored the district to something of its ancient glory by preventing the further destruction of many rare, beautiful and useful birds. There are but few works now in print which deal with NATURAL HISTORY 31 Nature in Lakeland. The best Natural History is H. A. Macpherson's The Vertebrate Fauna of Lakeland, second- hand copies of which are sometimes available ; birds are well dealt with in the works of the late Miss M. L. Armitt, particularly Studies of Lakeland Birds. Watson's Lake District Fisheries is the only detailed piscatorial guide. It is a pity that detailed information on such subjects as botany and geology is not more readily available. Take, for instance, Mr. S. L. Petty 's statement concerning the flora of Lakeland : " Strangers are occasionally rather sceptical as to the abundance of our flora, but it will compare favourably with even those of Hampshire and the Isle of Wight, which have some 1,050 species. What the Lakeland number is there can really be no saying until the Westmor- land flora is known : personally, I should not put it much below Hampshire." Dr. J. E. Marr, F.R.S., in a recent paper to the Journal of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club, gives the following interesting opinion : " It is generally known that a considerable number of a :group of plants somewhat loosely termed Alpine plants inhabit the upland regions of this country, and our own dis- trict has a fair number of these. Most of them flourish under very different conditions from those which now prevail in our country, and it is a question of interest why they are found on the Lakeland hills. There are abundant signs that at no distant date our uplands were occupied by snowfields and glaciers, and must then have been affected by a climate generally similar to that now prevalent in the Alpine regions of Switzerland. At that period an Alpine flora would become established here, and indeed we get evidence by examination of the lower portions of the fell-peat that when that peat was formed, a large number of Alpine plants inhabited the country which have now disappeared. We may regard our Alpine plants, therefore, as the survivors of a much more extensive Alpine flora which occupied Lakeland during the glacial period. These survivors are by no means confined to the higher crags. Some are lowland, meadow or beckside plants, as the globe-flower, the yellow mountain-pansy, and the birds- eye primrose. Others, though rock and debris plants, as the Alpine ladies' mantle, the star saxifrage, and the common yellow saxifrage, are found comparatively low down. The most typical Alpine plants are chiefly found at a height exceeding 1,800 feet." 32 NATURAL HISTORY The birds of the Lake Country number 262 species, accord- ing to Mr. Macpherson. This is four more than recorded for Lancashire, and forty more than the best authorities give to Cheshire. The Lake District is able to Hst rather more rare and accidental visitors than can its neighbours, but the winter birds are somewhat fewer in number. Several species entirely depart with the approach of winter, when the uplands become impossible for bird-life. Once the central mountains contained a richer and more distinctive fauna than now. The sea-eagle, the golden eagle, as well as the kite, the peregrine falcon and the buzzard, had their eyries among the precipitous rocks ; the osprey nested in the trees, the mire-drum boomed in every swamp and moss, and the marsh harrier inhabited the lower grounds. But even turning from this richer past we still have wild life worth noticing. The peregrine falcon, though harried almost to extinction by collectors, nest on the loftiest and remotest precipices. The buzzard is not so rare as has been stated ; the kestrel holds its own, as does the well-hunted sparrow- hawk ; so does the merlin on the lower heights and moors. The raven, too, breeds on the crags. The central heights of Lakeland are not much favoured by birds as breeding places, but the far-famed dotterel seeks them with that intent, and is, with the pied fly-catcher, the most distinctive bird of the district. It is, alas ! extremely rare, and the three or four broods that possibly are hatched each year on the loneliest mountain sides alone save it from extinction as a species that breeds in England. Of the mammals of Lakeland, beyond the weasel, the squirrel, the hedgehog and mice, little is seen. But if the visitor rambles from Ullswater into some of the loneliest recesses of the mountains he may meet with the native red deer, still wild. He may find the earth of the fox high up, and the holt of the otter by the secluded shore of the lake, but he is little likely to catch a glimpse of either of these cautious creatures. Nor will he see much of the pine-marten, though it still exists and is still taken on the rocky fells> The foumart is probably rarer, and the badger has erroneously been stated to be extinct. There are still a few of the wild stock in some of the dales. As might be expected from an area showing so much variety in its rock formation, Lakeland is the favourite haunt DIMENSIONS OF LAKES 33 of 'many species of butterflies and moths, some of which are rarely, if at all, found elsewhere in England. Some of the mountain insects are considered great prizes by the ento- mologist, Erebias epiphvon in particular. This species is abundant at high elevations in Lakeland, never being seen below 2,000 feet, where only a stray white or tortoiseshell or the ubiquitous pamphilus bear it company. Above that limit they may be seen in scores ; 200 feet lower you may look in vain for a stray specimen. But the day must be well chosen, for the dark Uttle fellow delights in sunshine. He is not to be found again between Red Screes and the Alps, where he may be met with at about 4,000 or 5,000 feet high. Dimensions of Lakes. These figures are necessarily only approximate. The dimensions of the lakes, of course, fluctuate according to rain- fall, and in the case of Thirlmere are dependent on the needs of Manchester. Even a slight rise of water may increase the acreage of a lake considerably. Lakes. Length. Breadth. Depth. Elevation.. In feet. Windermere . Ullswater Coniston . Bassenthwaite Derwentwater Wastwater 'Thirlmere Crummock Water Ennerdale Water Hawes Water Esthwaite Water Lowes Water Buttermere . Grasmere Rydal Water Brothers' Water . Elterwater is 187 feet above sea-level. It is so disconnected in construction that it is impossible to estimate other measurements with accuracy. ' Original acreage, 330 statute acres. When raised, as now, 20 feet, 565 acres : length, 3^ miles ; breadth, 700 yards. When raised 50 feet : length, 3^ miles (up to Nag's Head Inn) ; breadth, \ mile. English Lakes (c) In miles. 10 I 8^ I 5i h 4 i 3 li 3 i 3 1 3 ; i 2 2 1 II f li H Z ■ i ■ f : : 237 130 210 476 184 143 75 210 72 244 270 204 113 533 140 321 148 368 103 694 80 217 60 429 93 329 180 208 55 iBi 70 520 34 HEIGHTS OF PASSES Heights of Passes. Where possible, the mountain dominating the pass is quoted to enable the tourist to find it readily. Wliere this cannot be done, prominent features on the map are quoted with the same object. Feet. 1 Esk Hause (Great End) 2,490 Sticks Pass (Raise and Stybarrow Dodd, Helvellyn) 2,420 Nan Bield Pass (Harter Fell, High Street) .... 2,100 Walna Scar (Brown Pike, Coniston) 2,035 Gatescarth (Branstree, High Street) i,95o Grisedale (Fairfield, Seat Sandal, Dolly waggon Pike) . 1,929 Black Sail (Khkfell and PiUar Fell) 1,750 Stye Head (Great Gable) 1,600 Stake Pass [between Langdale and Langstrath (Lang- dale Pikes)] 1,576 Kirkstone (Red Screes) 1,480 Garbum (Kentmere to Troutbeck, Windermere, South of 111 Bell) 1,450 Scarf Gap (High Crag and Buttermere Haystacks) . 1,400 Hardknott [Duddon Valley and Eskdale (Bowfell)] 1,290 Wrynose [Little Langdale and Duddon Valley (Pike of Blisco and Wetherlam)J 1,270 Honister (Rosthwaite to Buttermere (Grey Knotts and Dale Head)) 1,190 Buttermere Hause [to Newlands (Robinson)] . . . 1,096 Whinlatter (Grisedale Pike and Lorton Fells) . . . 1,043 Dunmail Raise [Thirlmere and Grasmere (Seat Sandal and Steel Fell)] 783 Points 2,000 feet and upwards above Sea-Level. We have endeavoured to be as accurate as possible, but there is always room for diversity on this head. In some instances, where the surveyors do not appear to have taken the exact altitude of a fell, we have given the approximate height, marked thus : (ap.). It may be taken for granted that the actual height is not less than the approximate height here given. For the convenience of tourists we have : — (i) In the selection of names confined ourselves to those given on the maps in our Handbook to the Lake District {2s.6d,)y which are on the scale of one inch to the mile and were specially prepared for pedestrians. ^ The elevation of Esk Hause is generally given at about 100 feet lower, i.e. the summit of the pass from Langdale to Wasdale. To reach Eskdale it is, however, necessary to cross the real summit of the hause. MOUNTAIN GROUPS 35 (2) Divided the Fells into groups having an elevation of 2,000 feet or over, readily recognizable by the contours on those maps. {a) Skiddaw and Saddleback Group. — North of Derwentwater. (6) Grassmoor Group. — Grassmoor, Eel Crag, Grisedale, Whiteless and Causey Pikes. West of Derwentwater. (c) Buttermere Group. — High Crag, High Stile, Red Pike, Starling Dodd and Herdhouse. South of Buttermere. {d) Pillar Group. — -Pillar, Steeple, Red Pike, Haycock, Seatallan. Between Ennerdale Water and Wastwater. {e) Scafell Group. — Scafell, Scafell Pike, Lingmell, Great End, Esk Pike (nameless on the map, marked 2,903), Glaramara, Bowfell, Crinkle Crags, Pike o' Blisco. East of Wasdale Head.^ (/) Great Gable Group. — Great and Green Gables, Kirkfell, Bran- dreth, Grey Knotts, to Fleetwith Pike (Buttermere). North of Wasdale Head. (g) Newlands Group. — Dale Head, Hindscarth, Robinson. North of Buttermere. {h) High Raise Group. — Langdale Pikes, High Raise, Ullscarf, West and south-west of Thirlmere. (t) Helvellyn Group. — -Great Dodd, Raise, Helvellyn, Fairfield, Red Screes. East and south-east of Thirlmere. [k) High Street Group. — High Street (Roman Road) to 111 Bell, with Place Fell and Caudale Moor. South-east of Ullswater. (/) Coniston Group. — Old Man, Grey Friar, Carrs, Wetherlam. North-west of Coniston Water. [a) Skiddaw and Saddleback Group. Skiddaw Saddleback Skiddaw, Low Man Carlside Lonscale Fell Bowscale Fell Great Calva .... Gate Ghyll Fell . (ap.) UUock Pike . . (ap.) Feet 3,054 2,847 2,837 2,400 2,344 2,306 2,265 2,250 2,230 Feet. Scales Fell . . (ap.) 2,220 Dead Crags . . . . 2,189 CarrickFell .... 2,173 [Not in Map. N.E. Bowscale Fell) Bannerdale Crags (ap.) 2,100 Comb Height . . . 2,058 {Not in Map. N. Great Calva) High Pike .... 2,000 [Not in Map. N.E. Great Calva) (b) Grassmoor Group. Graissmoor .... 2,791 Eel Crag .... 2,749 Grisedale Pike . . . 2,593 Hopegill Head . . . 2,525 (Marked Sand Hill in the Map) Sand Hill . . . ,(ap). 2,500 Sail Whiteside Scar Crags Whiteless Pike Causey Pike . Hobcarton 2,500 2,317 2,205 2,159 2,050 2,010 ^ Wasdale Head is at the northern end of Wastwater, 36 MOUNTAIN GROUP'^ High Stile Red Pike High Crag {c) Buttermere Group. Feet. ; . 2,643 i Starling Dodd 2,479 ! Herdhouse 2,443 I Great Borne {d) Pillar Group. Feet. 2,085 2,019 2,019 Pillar 2,927 Steeple 2,746 Red Pike .... 2,707 Great Scoatfell . (ap.) 2,650 Haycock .... 2,619 Little Gowder Crag . 2,410 Seatallan 5, . . . . 2,266 Caw Fell 2,188 {Not in Map. W. Iron Crag.) Iron Crag .... 2,071 Looking Stead Yewbarrow Tewit How , Stirrup Crag Scafell Pike (Summit of England) . Scafell Broad Crag . Ill Crag . . Great End . Bowfell . . Long Pike lEsk Pike . Crinkle Crags (Long Top) Lingmell Shelter Crags Glaramara Stonesty Pike [e) Scafell Group. Allen Crags .... 3,210 Slight Side .... 3,162 Red How .... 3,050 Pike o' Blisco 3,040 Cold Pike . . . . 2,984 High House, Seathwaite 2,960 Fell . . . (ap.) 2,940 Great Knott . . (ap.) 2,903 Harter Fell .... 2,816 Black Crag . . (ap.) 2,649 Yeastyri.g Crags (ap.) 2,631 Rosthwaite (or Chapel) 2,560 Fell 2,544 Great Gable . Kirkfell . . Green Gable . Kirkfell Crags Dale Head Robinson Hindscarth High Raise . Sergeant Man Harrison Stickle. High White Stones Ullscarf . . . Thunacar Knott (ap.) (/) Great Gable Group. 2,949 Brandreth 2,631 Grey Knotts (ap.) 2,600 Fleetwith Pike (ap.) 2,500 Base Brown {g) Newlands Group. {h) 2A73, 2,417 2,385 High 2,500 2,414 2,401 2,374 2,370 2,351 Scawdell Fell Knitting How (ap.) Raise Group. I Pike o' Stickle . j Pavey Ark .... j Low White Stones (ap.) I Greenup . . . (ap.) j Coldbarrow Fell . (ap.) 2,058 2,058 2,014 2,009 2,510 2,502 2,421 2,306 2,359 2,250 2,150 2,140 2,100 2,050 2,000 2,344 2,287 2,126 2,120 2,143 2,100 2,323 2,288 2,200 2,100 2,050 * Generally incorrectly known as Hanging Knott, a shoulder ol Bowfell which overhangs Angle Tarn. Photos by] DERWENTWATER. [Graystoiic Bird. I^kes. MOUNTAIN GROUPS 37 Helvellyn Helvellyn Low Man Raise Fairfield . Browncove Crags Doll5rwaggon Pike Great Dodd St. Sunday Crag Stybarrow Dodd Hart Crag Watson's Dodd . Gavel Pike Red Screes . Great Rigg • Whelpside Dove Crag Catchedicam Striding Edge . [i) Helvellyn Group/ Feet 3,ii8 Hartside . 3,033 j Seat Sandal . 2,889 Clough Head 2,863 1 Tarn Crag . . (ap.) 2,819 i Greenhow End . (ap.) 2,810 I Ruthwaite Cove . (ap.) 2,807 j Birkhouse Moor and 2,756 ; Glenridding Common 2,756 I Cofa Pike. . . (ap.) 2,698 I Raven Crag (Red Screes) 2,584 j Whiteside . . (ap.) 2,577 i Calf how Pike 2,541 I Scandale Fell 2,513 ! Stang . . 2,512 ! Middle Dodd (ap.) 2,510 I Wanthwaite Fell (ap.) 2,500 I Snarker Pike 2,500 I Little Hart Crag Feet. 2,481 2,415 2,380 2,370 2,360 2,320 2,318 2,309 2280 2,250 2,166 2,166 2,149 2,106 2,190 2,096 2,061 {k) High Street Group. Stony Cove High Street . High Raise Thomthwaite Crag Kidsty Pike The Knowe Harter Fell III Bell . John Bell's Banner The Knott Froswick Raven How Gavel Crag Branstreet Red Crag Yoke Gray Crag Rest Dodd (ap (ap 2,802 2,663 2,634 2,600 2,560 2,509 2,500 2,476 2,474 2,423 2,359 2,358 2,350 2,333 2,328 2,292 2,286 2,278 Bason Crag . . (ap.) 2,210 Loadpot Hill . . . 2,201 Laythwaite Crags . . 2,191 Adam Seat .... 2,180 High Kop .... 2,179 Tarn Crag (Longsleddale) 2,176 Weather Hill . . . 2,174 Place Fell .... 2,154 Raven Crag . . (ap.) 2,150 Selside Pike .... 2,142 Whelter Crags . . . 2,100 Grey Crag (Longsleddale) 2,093 Rough Crag .... 2,062 Harrop Pike . . (ap.) 2,060 Hart Hill .... 2,057 Bleathwaite Crag (ap.) 2,050 Lower Hartsopp Dodd 2,018 Goat Scar . . (ap.) 2,000 [1) Coniston Group. Old Man 2,633 Great How Crags . . 2,625 Fairfield 2,611 Dow Crag .... 2,555 Grey Friar .... 2,537 Carrs Wetherlam Brown Pike Walna Scar Lad Stones 2,525 2,502 2,239 2,035 2,019 ' Grisedale'Pass does not appear a sufficiently definite break to warrant the division of this section into Helvellyn and Fairfield Ranges. As a practical range these fells are continuous. LAKELAND SPORTS AND AMUSEMENTS. Angling — Boating — Bowls — Golf — Hunting — Mountaineering — Sailing — Tennis — Winter Sports. Angling. SALMON are found in all streams which are directly- connected with the sea, and occasionally in certain lakes ; char in Windermere, Coniston Water, Goatswater, Hawes Water, Derwentwater, Buttermere, Crummock Water, Ennerdale and Wastwater ; trout (brown and grey) pretty nearly everywhere, in lakes, river, becks, and tarns. The lake trout run heavy — 5 lb. and over — but the Ullswater monsters {Ferox, 16 Ibr's) have been destroyed by the "flush " of the Greenside Lead Mines. The fishing in Ullswater is free. On the Eamont, running out of Ullswater, permission to fish for the first mile from the lake may be obtained from Mr. G. F. Winn, Bowen Bank, Pooley Bridge. The next five miles belong to the Penrith Angling Association (tickets 35. 6d. a week). Three miles of fishing at Honey Pot, belong- ing to the proprietors of the Crown Hotel, are free to visitors at the hotel. Below Eamont Bridge (salmon) the water belongs to the Yorkshire Anghng Association. The coarse fish are of little account, the roach being mostly confined to the river Kent and the Kendal and Preston Canal ; the tench, to muddy ponds ; the chub, to the Eden streams, and the skelly, or gw^niad, to parts of Ullswater and Hawes Water ; whilst pike and perch are to be found almost everywhere. Perhaps the best pike fishing is to be had in Esthwaite Water, and Bassenthwaite is famous for its perch (locally " bass "). In Ullswater and in Red Tarn (near the summit of Hel- vellyn) the skelly is found, a fish identical with the gw^'niad of other localities. It is not a sporting fish, nor is it an edible one. 88 ANGLING 39 We give below a list of Permits and Licences for the principal rivers and lakes in the Lake District. The price of these licences is Liable to variation at the discretion of the Fishery Boards. It is rumoured that an increase in the prices is likely to be made on the York- shire Border, i.e., in the Lune basin. The Bela is strictly preserved, but the proprietor of the Wheatsheaf Inn, Beet- ham, is in a position to afford certain faciUties to anglers staying there. There are, of course, stretches of private water which are not open to the pubUc — e.g., at Isel on the Derwent and Levens on the Kent — but with the exceptions noted, most of the water is available. The Shap District. There is plenty of fishing in this neighbourhood. Trout are to be found in all the streams, and salmon as indicated. The following are the chief rivers and becks : — The Lune (salmon), Lowther (salmon), Swindale Beck (salmon), Haweswater Beck, Leith, Lyvennet (salmon), Birkbeck, Tebay Ghyll,Blindbeck,Barrowbeck,Howghyll,Wasdale Beck. For Licences for the Lune District sec list below. Most of the Lowther belongs to Lord Lonsdale, and is administered under a special Act of Parlia- ment. Application for permission to fish should be made to Mr. W. Little, Hutton Hall, Penrith. The Leith is closely pre- served. On the Lune, below Kirkby Lonsdale Bridge, the trout increase in size, and near Lancaster splendid fish may be taken. Hackle flies are recommended. Kent, Bela, Winsier, Leven, and Duddon Fishery District. (Including the Mint and Sprint, the Lakes Windermere, Coniston Esthwaite, Grasmere and Rydal, and about 20 tarns.) Licences for Salmon. — Single rod and line, los. for the season; 5s. for a week. (A licence to fish for salmon includes licence to fish for trout and char.) Licences for Trout and Char. — Single rod and line available for season over all the district, 5s. Single rod and line for all the district, except Lake Windermere, for which the higher duty is required, 25. 6d. Single rod and line for use in Lake Wiadermere from 12 o'clock night on Friday, to 12 o'clock night on the Monday following, 2s. 6d. ; plumb line (each), 7s. ()d. Week- end and other licences can readily be obtained at all the principa centres. Close season for salmon, for rod and line, from November 15 to March 31, both days inclusive. Close season for trout and char ; for so much of the Duddon and its tributaries as lies above Foxfield Viaduct : from October 2 to April I, both days inclusive. 40 ANGLING For the Bela and its tributaries ; from September i6 to February 15, both days inclusive. For the rest of the Board's District ; from October 2 to March 3, both days inclusive. Note. — The Leven itself is very strictly preserved, but fair igtiing is open to visitors to the Swan Hotel at Newby Bridge. Tickets : Salmon, 12s. 6d. the season ; trout, 55. the season ; 2s. 6d. the week-end. For licences, apply to Messrs. Hart Jackson & Sons, Clerks to the Board, Ulverston. LuQe, Wyre, Keer, and Cocker Fishery District. £ s. d. For fishing for salmon, trout and char. Single rod and line for the whole district . . .100 Single rod and line for that part of the district which includes the Lune and its tributaries above Kirkby Lonsdale Bridge. (Much of the Lune is private water) o 10 o Single rod and line for the Wyre and its tributaries .©50 Single rod and line for the rivers Keer, Cocker, Conder, Wenning, and Greta, and their tributaries (all in- clusive) \ .050 For each and every rod and line for trout and char (exclusively of salmon) . . . . .026 These licences can be obtained on application to the Clerk to the Board, 67, Church Street, Lancaster, and at other addresses which can easily be ascertained by local inquiry. Close season for Salmon. — For rod and line, from November 2 to March i, both days inclusive. Close season for Trout. — From October 2 to March i, both days ndusive. Derwent Fishery District. Including Dervventwater and Bassenthwaite Lake. LICENCE DUTIES. Salmon. ^ s. d. For single rod and line used in any part of the District (season) i 10 o Do. before September 15 only . . . . . o 15 o Do. for any calendar month or part thereof after September 14 only o 15 o Do. used in any part of the district above the foot of Bassenthwaite Lake {season) . . . . o 10 o Do. before September 14 only . . , . .076 Do. for any calendar month or part thereof after September 14 only 076 Trout and Char. For single rod and line used in any part of the district {season) o 10 o Do. above Derwent Bridge, Cockerraouth {season) .050 Do. for one week . . . . , , .026 Do, below Derwent Bridge before July i only . .050 Do. for one week , . . . . . .026 A NGLING—BOA TING— GOLF 4 r Licences may be obtained from the Clerk to tlie Conservators, Cockermouth. In addition to the above licences it is necessary to purchase per- mits to fish from the local Angling Association. West Cumberland Fishery District. The rivers Irt, Mite, Esk, Calder and Ehen. £ s. d. Licence to fish for salmon with a single rod and line throughout the season. . . . . . o 10 6 Weekly licence to fish for salmon with a single rod and line 050 Daily licence to fish for salmon with a single rod and line 020 (A licence to fish for salmon includes the right to fish for trout and char until, and including, September i.) Licence to fish for trout and char only, with a single rod and line for the season . . . . .026 Licence to fish for trout and char only, with a single rod and line for a week . . . . . .010 It is lawful to use a gaff in connection with a rod and line from July I to November 13, both inclusive. The close season for fishing for salmon, with rod and line, com- mences November 14, and terminates March 10, both inclusive. Close season for trout or char, September 2 to March 10, both inclusive. Clerk to the Board — W. H. Chapman, 42, Lowther Street, White- haven. Boating IS to be had on all the lakes. Tourists are specially warned that the lakes are hable to sudden squalls of great violence from the mountciins and that constant vigilance is essential to safety. Bowls. One or more good bowUng greens will generally be found at the larger centres, to which visitors are admitted at a small charge. Golf Links. Golfing is to be had almost everywhere in the district. The best and most expensive Hnks are at Seascale (18 holes) and Windermere (18 holes), 25. 6d. a day, los. a week, 25s. a month. There are i8-hole courses at Walney Island, Barrow (is. a day, 45. a week, 105. a month) ; and at Kendal (2s. and 5s.). Nine-hole courses are at Keswick {is. 6d., 5s., ys. 6d.) ; Win- derniere (Birthwaite) (15. 6d., 5s., 105.); Ambleside (is. 6d., 6s., 15s. ; Grange-over-Sands (2s., 5s., 15s.) ; Arnside (is. 5s., los. 6d.) ; Silverdale (is. 6d., ^s., los. Gd.) ; Cockermouth (is., 4s., los.) ; Newby Bridge (is., 3s. 6d., ys. 6d.) ; Ulversion (is., 3s. 6d., 10s. 6d.) ; Silecroft (is., 4s., los.) ; and Penrith 42 HUNTING— MOUNTAINEERING {is., 25. 6d., 55.). Kirkhy Lonsdale, is. day ; 35. week ; 55. 6d. fortnight ; 105. month. For particulars apply to the Secretaries of the various clubs. Hunting. Tourists who take pleasure in the exhilarating but some- times very laborious sport of otter-hunting have many facilities in the Lake District during the summer months. Later in the year there is plenty of sport with foxhounds, harriers, and beagles. The following are the Lakeland Hunts, with their kennels : — Foxhounds. — Blencathra — Threlkeld (a) ; Coniston — Am- bleside (a) ; West Cumberland — Cockermouth ; Eskdale and Ennerdale — Eskdale S.O. (a); The Melbrake — Lowes water {a) ; Ullswater — Patterdale {a). Harriers. — Brampton — Nook, Rose Hill, Carhsle ; Winder- mere — Ambleside. Beagles. — Cockermouth — Cockermouth ; St. Bees — St. Bees. Otter Hounds. — Lakeside, Ambleside. The packs marked (a) are fellside packs, and are followed on foot. Mountaineering. This favourite form of recreation can only be enjoyed to the full by plucky and hardy pedestrians, and to these the country presents infinite attractions and not a few perils. There is not much danger, however, if two or more pedes- trians wander over the mountains in ordinary weather. But a solitary tourist may get nervous and bewildered, and be many hours (even days) wandering about, or worse still be incapacitated by a sprained ankle or other injury, and perhaps will finally succumb, though all the time within reach of succour and safety. The Lake District is small — it can all be crossed in a day — but so numerous are the places of interest that it takes long to explore thoroughly. Hurried travelling will give but little satisfaction. To enjoy the Lakes, we must live among them, study them, watch their varying moods and changing features, make friends with the rocks and peaks, the fells and scars. They will never prove false ; and when you know them and appreciate their constancy and never-ageing beauty, you will go again and SAILING— WINTER SPORTS 43 again to throw yourself at their feet, learning something at every visit, and never wearying of your choice. There are on record some notable, even marvellous, pedes- trian feats in Lakeland, but it is questionable if there are many women, or even men, " Lakers " in these days who could walk from Grasmere to Keswick, on a windy November day, in four hours and twenty-five minutes, as Dorothy Wordsworth did in 1800. It must be borne in mind that the standard of rock-climb- ing in the Lake District is even dangerously high ; that none of the recognized climbs are for ordinary tourists ; and that the more severe are for experts only. Good books on rock-mountaineering in the Lake District are Rock Climbing in the English Lake District, by O. G. Jones (3rd edition, edited by George and Ashley P. Abraham) ; Crag and Hound in Lakeland, by C. E. Benson ; and The Complete Mountaineer and British Mountain Climbs, hy G. D. Abraham. Of the less-sensational delights of fell-walking many authors have written. The works of Canon Rawnsley in particular are full of descriptions of hill-side rambles. Sailing. Windermere is the headquarters for yachting, and the sport is also followed on some of the other lakes. The caution with regard to squalls given under Boating (p. 41) is re-emphasized with tenfold force in regard to sailing. Tennis. There are good lawn tennis grounds available at Winder- mere, Keswick, Kendal, and Grange-over-Sands. Winter Sports. When, as not infrequently happens, the lakes are frozen over (with the exception of Wastwater, which is never com- pletely covered) grand skating is to be had. Curling is a favourite sport, and those who are not acquainted with the " roaring game," will, if they visit Lakeland in winter, have an opportunity of learning something of its fascination and difficulty. Ski-ing is coming into fashion, but those who follow this exhilarating pastime are warned against the extreme steepness of the Lakeland fells, and that level runs and moderate slopes often terminate in abrupt, craggy declivities. They will also find that the innumerable stone walls may be a danger as well as an impediment. A LITERARY NOTE. Wordsworth and the Lake District — His " Observations" and Description of Lake and Valley Formation — Other Literary Associations — Glossary of Lakeland Terms. IN the minds of all lovers of literature the Lake District is inseparably associated with the name of William Wordsworth. Although we do not insist that an acquaintance with the district is essential to the understanding of many of this great poet's works, it certainly greatly facilitates appreciation of them. No one, for instance, can quite com- prehend the series of Duddon Sonnets who has not wandered through Donnerdale ; and it is almost equally true that no one can fully appreciate the Duddon Valley who is not familiar with the Sonnets. It is not, however, to Wordsworth's poems that we desire to call special attention (they are sufficiently well known), but to his undeservedly neglected prose works. Nearly all that has since been written about Lakeland has derived its inspiration from his " Description of the Scenery of the Lakes in the North of England," afterwards expanded as " A Guide Through the District of the Lakes in the North of England, etc., with a Description of the Scenery for the use of Tourists and Residents." Limitations of space forbid full quotation from that work, but the following passages possess almost as much interest and value for modern travellers as when they were penned: — Wordsworth's ** Miscellaneous Observations." " Mr. West recommends, as the best season for visiting this country, the intervals from the beginning of June to the end of August ; and the two latter months being a time of vaca- tion and leisure, it is almost exclusively in these that stran- gers resort hither. But that season is by no means the best, The colouiing of the mountains and woods, unless where they are diversified by rocks, is of too unvaried a green ; and, as a large portion of the valleys is allotted to hay-grass, some 44 A. Pettitt,] LAKE-SIDE STATION, WINDERMERE. [Keswick. F. Frilh & Co., Lul.,] NEVVBY BRIDGE. [Reigate. WORDSWORTH'S OBSERVATIONS 45 want of variety is found there also. The meadows, however, are sufficiently enlivened after haymaking begins, which is much later than in the southern part of the island. A stron- ger objection is rainy weather, setting in sometimes at this period with a vigour, and continuing with a perseverance that may remind the disappointed and dejected traveller of those deluges of rain which fall among the Abyssinian mountains for the annual supply of the Nile. The months of September and October (particularly October) are generally attended with much finer weather ; and the scenery is then beyond com- parison, more diversified, more splendid and beautiful ; but on the other hand, short days prevent long excursions, and sharp and chill gales are unfavourable to parties of pleasure out of doors. Nevertheless, to the sincere admirer of nature who is in good health and spirits and at liberty to make a choice, the six weeks following the ist of September may be recommended in preference to July and August ; for there is no inconvenience arising from the season which, to such a person, would not be amply compensated by the autumnal appearance of the more retired valleys. In such spots, at this season, there is an admirable compass and pro- portion of natural harmony in colour through the whole scale of objects. Yet, as most travellers are either stinted or stint themselves for time, the space between the middle or last week in May and the middle or last week in June, may be pointed out as aHording the best combination of long days^ fine weather, and variety of impressions. " I am aware that few of those who may be inclined to profit by this recommendation will be able to do so, as the time and manner of an excursion of this kind are mostly regulated by circumstances which prevent an entire freedom of choice. It will therefore be more pleasant to observe that, though the months of July and August are liable to many objections, yet it often happens that the weather, at this time,, is not more wet and stormy than they who are really capable of enjoying the sublime forms of nature in their utmost sub- limity would desire. For no traveller, provided he be in good health and with any command of time, would have a just privilege to visit such scenes if he could grudge the price of a little confinement among them, or interruption in his jour- ney, for the sight or sound of a storm coming on or clearing away. Insensible must he be who would not congratulate himself upon the bold bursts of sunshine, the descending vapours, wandering lights and shadows, and the invigorating torrents and waterfalls, with which broken weather, in a mountainous region, is accompanied. At such a time there is no cause to complain, either of the monotony of midsummt sr 46 WORDSWORTH'S OBSERVATIONS colouring, or the glaring atmosphere of long, cloudless, and hot days. " A stranger to a mountainous country may not be aware that his walk in the early morning ought to be taken on the eastern side of the vale, otherwise he will lose the morn- ing light, first touching the tops and thence creeping down the sides of the opposite hills, as the sun ascends ; or he may go to some central eminence, commanding both the shadows from the eastern and the lights upon the western mountains. But, if the horizon line in the east be low, the western side may be taken, for the sake of the reflections upon the water of light from the rising sun. " After all, it is upon the mind which the traveller brings along with him that his acquisitions, whether of pleasure or profit, must principally depend. " Nothing is more injurious to genuine feeling than the practice of hastily and ungraciously depreciating the face of one country by comparing it with that of another. True it is, * Qui bene distinguit bene docet ' ; yet fastidiousness is a wretched travelling companion, and the best guide to which, in matters of taste, we can entrust ourselves is a disposition to be pleased. For example : If a traveller be among the Alps, let him surrender up his mind to the fury of the gigantic torrents and take delight in the contemplation of their almost irresistible violence, without complaining of the monotony of their foaming course or being disgusted with the muddiness of the water — apparent even where it is violently agitated. In Cumberland and Westmorland let not the comparative weakness of the streams prevent him from sympathizing with such impetuosity as they possess ; and making the most ■of the present objects, let him, as he justly may do, observe with admiration the unrivalled brilliancy of the water, and the variety of motion, mood, and character that arises out of the want of those resources by which the power of the streams in the Alps is supported. Again, with respect to the moun- tains : though these are comparatively of diminutive size, though there is little of perpetual snow and no voice of sum- mer avalanches is heard among them, and though traces left by the ravage of the elements are here comparatively rare and unimpressive, yet out of this very deficiency proceeds a sense of stability and permanence that is to many minds more grateful, ' While the coarse rushes to the sweeping breeze Sigh forth their ancient melodies.' " From these general views let us descend a moment to detail. A stranger to mountain imagery naturally, on his WORDSWORTH'S OBSERVATIONS 47 first arrival, looks out for sublimity in every object that ad- mits of it, and is almost always disappointed. For this dis- appointment there exists, I believe, no general preventative, nor is it desirable that there should. But with regard to one class of objects, there is a point in which injurious expectations may be easily corrected. It is generally supposed that water- falls are scarcely worth being looked at except after much rain, and that the more swollen the stream the more fortunate the spectator ; but this, however, is true only of large cataracts, with sublime accompaniments, and not even of these with- out some drawbacks. It may be observed that the principal charm of the smaller waterfalls or cascades consists in certain proportions of form and affinities of colour among the com- ponent parts of the scene, and in the contrast maintained between the falling water and that which is apparently at rest. Now delicate distinctions are destroyed by heavy floods, and the whole stream rushes along in tumultuous con- fusion. A happy proportion of component parts is indeed noticeable among the landscapes of the north of England ; and in this characteristic they surpass the scenes of Scotland." Lake and Valley Formation. " I know not how to give the reader a distinct image of the main outhnes of the country more readily than by request- ing him to place himself with me, in imagination, upon some given point ; let it be the top of either of the mountains Great Gavel (now always called Great Gable) or Scawfell ; or, rather, let us suppose our station to be a cloud hanging midway between those two mountains, at not more than a half-mile's distance from the summit of each, and not many yards above their highest elevation. We shall then see stretched at our feet a number of valleys, not fewer than eight, diverging from the point on which we are supposed to stand, like spokes from the nave of a wheel. First we note, lying to the south-east, the vale of Langdale, which will con- duct the eye to the long lake of Winandermere, stretched nearly to the sea ; or rather to the sands of the vast bay of Morecambe, serving here for the rim of this imaginary wheel ; let us trace it in a direction from the south-east towards the south, and we shall next fix our eyes upon the vale of Conis- ton, running up hkewise from the sea, but not (as all the other valleys do) to the nave of the wheel, and therefore it may be not inaptly represented as a broken spoke sticking in the rim. Looking forth again, with an inchnation towards the west, we see immediately at our feet the vale of Duddon, in which is no lake, but a copious stream, winding among fields, rocks and mountains, and terminating its course in the sands of 48 WORDSWORTH'S OBSERVATIONS Duddon. The fourth vale, next to be observed, viz., that of the Esk, is of the same general character as the last, yet beautifully discriminated from it by peculiar features. Its stream passes under the woody steep upon which stands Muncaster Castle, the ancient seat of the Penningtons, and after forming a short and narrow estuary enters the sea below the small town of Ravenglass. Next, almost due west, look down into and along the deep valley of Wasdale, with its little chapel and half a dozen neat dwellings scattered upon a plain of meadow and corn-ground intersected with stone walls apparently innumerable, like a large piece of lawless patch- work, or an array of mathematical figures, such as in the ancient schools of geometry might have been sportively and fantastically traced out upon sand. Beyond this little fertile plain lies, with a bed of steep mountains, the long, narrow, stem, and desolate lake of Wasdale ; and, beyond this, a dusky tract of level ground conducts the eye to the Irish Sea. The stream that issues [from Wastwater is named the Irt, and falls into the estuary at the river Esk. Next comes in view Ennerdale, with its lake of bold and somewhat savage shores. Its stream, the Ehen or Enna, flowing through a soft and fertile country, passes the town of Egremont and the ruins of the castle, then, seeming, like the other rivers, to break through the barrier of sand thrown up by the winds on the tempestuous coast, enters the Irish Sea. The vale of Buttermere, with the lake and village of that name, and Crummockwater, beyond, next present themselves. We will follow the main stream, the Cocker, through the fertile and beautiful vale of Lorton, till it is lost in the Derwent, below the noble ruins of Cockermouth Castle. Lastly, Borrowdale, of which the vale of Keswick is only a continuation, stretching due north, brings up to a point nearly opposite to the vale of Winandermere with which we began. From this it will appear that the image of a wheel, thus far exact, is little more than one-half complete ; but the deficiency on the eastern side may be supplied by the vales of Wythburn, Ullswater, Haweswater, and the vale of Grasmere and Rydal ; none of these, however, run up to the central point between Great Gavel and Scawfell. From this, hitherto our central point, take a flight of not more than four or five miles east- ward to the ridge of Helvellyn, and you will look down upon Wythburn and St. John's Vale, which are a branch of the vale of Keswick ; upon Ullswater, stretching due east,, and not far beyond to the south-east (though from this point not visible) lie the vale and lake of Haweswater ; and, lastly, the vale of Grasmere, Rydal, and Ambleside, brings you back to Winandermere, thus completing, though on the eastern side LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS 49 in a somewhat irregular manner, the representative figure of the wheel." Others, more prosaically, but with at least equal accuracy, have compared the general shape of the Lake District to a starfish. Other Literary Associations. Though Wordsworth is " everywhere " in Lakeland, the Mecca of pilgrims is the vale in which lie Rydal and Grasmere Lakes. This lovely recess is a very temple of the muses, rich with memories of such men as Samuel Taylor Coleridge, Hartley Coleridge, De Quincey (who ought to be read by " Lakers," but is not), and Dorothy Wordsworth. We may warn people of a romantic or credulous disposition that though, according to S. T. Coleridge, in — " Langdale Pikes, and Witch's Lair, And Dungeon Ghyll so foully rent, With ropes of rock and bells of air, Three sinful sextons' souls are pent," they may listen in vain for the answering chimes recorded in Christabel. Rydal Vale, however, does not possess a monopoly of Lakeland littSrateurs. Nearer Ambleside is the house of Harriet Martineau, the Knoll, in which she wrote her famous Complete Guide to the English Lakes (1855). In 1848 Emerson paid her a visit, afterwards giving an account ol his interview with Wordsworth in English Traits. Many other distin- guished persons from time to time visited The Knoll, but in all the gossiping records it is curious that no mention is made of the most interesting visitor of all, George Ehot. Miss Evans and Harriet Martineau met for the first time in January, [852, and, in a letter dated 21st, the former wrote to her bosom friend : — " Harriet Martineau called on Monday. . . . Very kind and cordial. I honour her for her powers and industry and should be glad to think highly of her. I have no doubt that she is fascinating when there is time to talk." On March 25, 1852, Miss Evans wrote to Mrs. Bray : — " Harriet Martineau has written me a most cordial invita- tion to go and see her before July, but that is impossible." The meeting, however, did take place in October of the same year, Miss Evans visiting the Lake District on her way English Lakes {d) 50 LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS back from Scotland. In a letter dated October 22, 1852, she wrote : — " The coach brought me to Miss Martineau's gate at half- past six yesterday evening, and she was there with a beaming face to meet me. There has been an intelUgent gentleman visitor to-day who is interested in Miss Martineau's building society : and we have been trudging about looking at cottages and enjoying the sight of the mountains, spite of rain and mist. Miss Martineau is charming in her own home, quite handsome, from her association and intelligence. She came behind me, put her hands round me, and kissed me in the prettiest way this evening, telHng me she was so glad she had got me here. . . . We had a fine day yesterday, and went to Borrowdale." Close at hand, at the foot of Wansfell Pike, is a house which was a temporary home of Mrs. Hemans. At Windermere we come to Elleray, the old home of Professor Wilson {" Christopher North " of Blackwood's Magazine, the author of the rollicking and pungent Nodes Ambrosiant^, the Isle of Palms, and many other works now more talked about than read). Wilson resided at Elleraj^ for some years, and ranked high among the Lake poets and litterati of his day, and on these grounds, coupled with his genial personality and his exploits as athlete, pedestrian, angler, and hunter, did more probably at one period than even Wordsworth to popularize the Lake District. Storrs, farther down the Lake, is noted as the meeting-place of Scott, Wordsworth, Southey and Professor Wilson in 1825 : and far to the west, at Coniston, is the home and last resting-place of John Ruskin, perhaps the greatest of the great names associated with the District. The names of Scott and Southey take us northward bj'' Helvellyn, the scene of Scott's rather hackneyed verses, and the Vale of St. John, where the Legend of the Bridal of Trieymain centres round the Castle Rock. We may mention in passing that the " huge nameless rock " of the former poem has a name. Red Screes (not to be confused with the mountain above the Kirkstone — there are several Red Screes in the dis- trict) ; and that Saddleback was never called Glaramara by anyone but Scott in the Bridal of Triermain, the true alter- native being Blencathra. Glaramara is miles away, in Borrowdale. Spedding is still a familiar name beneath the slopes of GLOSSARY 51 Skiddaw (we commend it to all who favour the Bacon- Shakespearean theory), and Southey is the presiding genius of Keswick, now the home of that distinguished scholar and true lover of the Lakes, Canon H. D. Rawnsley, himself no unworthy successor of the brilHant company whose doings he chronicles in his charming Literary Associations of the Lake District. Among more recent writers who have found inspiration in the district it is easy to think of James Payn, Mrs. Hum- phry Ward, Mr. Hall Caine, Mr. Stanley J. Weyman and Mr. A. E. W. Mason. GLOSSARY OF LAKELAND TERMS. Band ; a high place on a hill. The Band on Bowfell, etc. Barrow ; a hill. Beck ; stream generally, but more often used to mountain torrents. Bent ; coarse fell grass. Bield ; a shelter. Generally the name given to that portion of a range which protects a valley from the Helm or other cold winds. Bink ; bench-like crags ; ledges in a rock-face ; often used as a refuge by foxes. Blea ; in dialect and place-name alike the word means ► J " cold blue." Borran ; a heap of stones. Brant ; steep. Burn ; probably the same word as Borran. It does not appear to mean brook. Cairn ; a pile of stones, generally erected to mark the way, or to denote the summit of a fell. Cam ; the ridge of a hill, or of a portion of a hill. Den ; a valley. Dike ; a hedge of every description is so called. Dodd ; an elevated point, a dependency of the main fell, e.g. Stybarrow Dodd, Watson's Dodd, and Great Dodd on Helvellyn. The summit is generally rounded. Dore ; an opening between walls of rocks. The Great Dora, Mickledore, is between Scafell Pikes and Scafell, two mountains. Doup ; " Any semicircular cavity, resembhng half an egg- shell." A scoop in a fell side. Dun ; a dune or down. Fell ; a term generally used for the mountains, but also applied to common lands of no great elevation. 52 GLOSSARY Force ; a waterfall. Garth, Gard and Guard ; enclosed piece of land of small size. Gate ; road, street, thoroughfare. Every Lakeland town has its street named after some distinctive gate — Scotch- gate, Carlisle ; High-gate, Kendal. Ghyll ; the deep furrow a stream has developed in a hillside. Often the channel lies deep in the split rocks. The sweetest Lakeland scenery is found in the less savage ghylls. Ginnel ; a crag or opening in a crag. Often used by dalesmen to describe the steep unconventional routes by which they reach the mountain pastures. Grain (a prong) ; the fork of a stream. Hag ; a wood ; enclosed ground. Hause ; the summit of a pass (a col). How ; a low hill. Intake ; an enclosure on a fell side generally surrounded by stone walls. ' ^ Kell, Keld ; a spring or well, found in place-names such as Gunnerkeld, Threlkeld, etc. Knott ; a " lumpy " hill in a chain of hills — Hardknott, Hanging Knott, etc. Knowe ; a rounded hill. Man ; a cairn on a summit, or marking a route. Not neces- sarily the highest point of the mass. The terms High Man and Low Man are not uncommon. Mere ; a lake. Nab ; a high situation ; where a long rolling hill terminates. Ness (a nose) ; a projection, not necessarily into a lake. Pike ; a prominent peak on the fells — Pike o' Stickle, etc. Pitch ; an abrupt ascent. Raise ; the summit of a ridge ; a heap of stones. Rake ; in many parts the rough paths up a steep and stony mountain side are so-named — Lord's Eake on Scafell. Rigg ; the ridge approa'-h to the massif of a mountain. Scarth ; a frontage of rocks on a fell side (a scar on a fell side). Scree ; a bank of loose stones lying at a high angle ; the debris of cUfTs. Sike ; a rivulet in marshy ground. Slack ; a slight depression between two elevations Slape ; smooth, shppery. Spout ; a waterfall. Tarn ; a small mountain lake. Thwaite; a clearing Wath ; a ford — Sandwath, Yanwath, etc. Wyke ; a bay CYCLING AND MOTORING. CYCLING in Lakeland is enjoyable, if arduous. The C.T.C. notice-boards and the motor signs give the usual warnings of danger or caution, and road users are warned that these words are to be interpreted in their fullest sense. Through the energetic action of the County Councils nearly all the main highways are now in good order and the work of bringing others into the same condition is being vigorously prosecuted. The cycling in the outlying districts is less severe, but still, the ups and downs are numerous and often abrupt. Cyclists and motorists should note that there is no road for them where the railway crosses the mouths of the Kent, Leven, Duddon and Esk, and that in the case of the first two of these rivers a considerable detour inland is necessary. The Furness Railway Company is very liberal in its treat- ment of cyclists. The principal routes are outlined below. Fuller details are given in The Cyclists' Guide to the Lake District, by A. W. Rumney, 15. 6d. Cycling and Motoring Routes. 1. Through the District from South to North. Windermere or Bowness to Keswick by Ambleside, Rydal, Grasmere and Thirlmere (22 miles). From Windermere to Bowness is all descent, and the first few hundred yards are rather steep and zigzagging. It is easy going till a sharp, steep, twisting approach leads to Bowness. When the incline towards Bowness steepens, great care should be exercised. From Windermere to Low Wood is downhill practically all the way, in parts fairly steep. There is much motor and other traffic. From Low Wood through Ambleside to Grasmere there are some ups and downs and some delightful runs. From Grasmere there is a long grind up to Dunmail Raise 63 54 CYCLING AND MOTORING (the descent from the north requires care). The gradient be- tween the Raise and Thirlmere has been much eased recently. The western side of Thirlmere, by the new road made by the Manchester Corporation, is to be preferred. The two routes unite again at four miles from Keswick, two miles from which is a steep ascent, followed by a long steep descent. Where the road forks at the old toll-bar, the cyclist or motorist must unhesitatingly take the branch on his right hand (bad corner ^ m. farther on). Surface good throughout. Some recommend that the last hill should be turned by reaching Keswick by the Vale of St. John and Threlkeld. This adds about four miles to the distance on inferior roads. The variation certainly takes in the Vale of St. John, but, on the other hand, it misses the magnificent surprise view of Derwentwater and its surroundings from Castlerigg. 2. Round Windermere Lake (27 miles). This road is up and down almost throughout, with some level runs at either extremity of the Lake. A sharp look-out must be kept for C.T.C. notice-boards. The surface on the east side is generally good ; on the west generally indifferent to bad, except at the commencement and end of the run. There are two very dangerous descents : Graythwaite Hill, about two miles north of Newby Bridge, and Ferry Hill, about two miles farther on. Great care must be exercised when approaching Newby Bridge from either direction. The shore road from the Ferry to Ambleside is so poor that it is better not to descend the bad Ferry Hill, but to keep to the left by Hawkshead as in next route. Or the cyclist may do better by turning to the left at Graythwaite, going direct to Hawkshead by the left shore of Esthwaite Water. 3. Windermere to Coniston by Bowness, the Ferry and Hawkshead (11 miles). For Windermere to Bowness, see under Route i. To the Ferry easy ; from the Ferry a steep, twisting ascent (a most dangerous descent) ; then fair going, inclining all the way, to Esthwaite Water. Beyond Hawkshead is a fairly long push, and soon after comes the long, steep, twisting, dangerous descent to Coniston. Surface good throughout. This steep hill can be turned by keeping to the left at summit and then taking the first to the right. The surface, however, is nferior and care has to be taken. CYCLING AND MOTORING 55 4. Windermere to Coniston by Ambleside (13 miles). For Windermere to Ambleside, see Route i. From Amble- side to Skelwith easy. Thence a long and in places steep ascent (a nasty descent) ; a short moderate run by Oxenfell (wdth a sudden twisty " drop " from fell to pasture), after which comes a long descent (care required in parts) to High Yewdale Farm, from which an easy run leads to Coniston. 5. Ambleside to Great Langdale (8 miles). The correct route is to keep to the road that runs by the river Brathay. The road is undulating and beyond Elter- water there are a couple of nasty turns and a gate. Surface good to beyond Elterwater, a httle beyond which it deteriorates to Dungeon Ghyll. Cychsts who choose to return by High Close are warned that the descent of Red Bank is unquestionably very dangerous. The road from Great Langdale to Little Langdale by Blea Tarn is both steep and rough to the summit, moderate beyond.] 6. Windermere or Ambleside to Ullswater by the Kirkstone Pass. The ascent from or descent to Ambleside is out of the question. The only reasonable course for cycle or motor is by way of Troutbeck. It is all uphill till the summit of the Pass is reached ; thence to Brothers' Water it is dangerously steep downhill. The surface is good throughout, but the collar-work is fatiguing and the descent dangerous. Motor- ists are warned that should the car run away with them (as it may), not everyone can have the luck to charge a stone wall, knock it down, have the car turn over on him, and then be well enough to crawl out, photograph the car, and walk healthily on to the hotel. This has actually occurred on this route, but it is unwise to expect a recurrence of miracles. 7. Patterdale to Keswick (18 miles). Three miles from Patterdale, on leaving Ullswater, there is a steep rise. Soon after comes a long gradual slope with one stiff rise over Matterdale Common to Troutbeck station. Thence down and up to Scales, and then rapidly down to Threlkeld, whence it is up and down to Keswick. Surface good to moderate. 8. The Honister Round (22 miles). Between Keswick and SeatoUer there are numerous ups and downs, some of them quite sharp, and the cychst is always bothered by the narrow lane and ^the certainty of meeting 56 CYCLING AND MOTORING traffic. The road about a mile out from Keswick is generally greasy until Barrow is reached. From SeatoUer it is almost all push to Honister Hause. Here the cyclist must on no account mount, but must walk dowTi the rough pass till the comparatively level ground at the foot of Honister Crag is reached. This route is not for motorists. Along the side of Buttermere the road is undulating, with one or two gates. From Buttermere it is again a long push to the summit (a dangerous descent) of Buttermere Hause, whence is a short, steep, unrideable descent. After this the road undulates, with a sharp, steep turn at Keskadale. Dismount. Between Swinside and Portinscale there are some sharp ups and downs : easier and only one mile longer by Braithwaite. Surface fair, except the descent of Honister Pass, which is impracticable, and north of Buttermere Hause, v/hich is indifferent for some distance. The road from Lodore to Borrowdale is being greatly improved by widenings and corner cuttings. There is now a toll bye-road on the north of Honister Pass which provides an alternative route. 8a. By the Whinlatter Pass. — This is an alternative route between Buttermere and Keswick, consisting of a long and steep ascent and a long and steep descent, with some twists taken either way. It leaves the Cockermouth road at Lorton village, sixteen miles from Buttermere. The short cut two miles before this is not advised. Surface fair. 8b. By Cockermouth. — A rather long round, which avoids the steep passes. It is a favourite alternative with many wheelmen, but of course much of the finest scenery is missed. 9. Round Derwentwater (g miles). For route to Borrowdale Hotel, see No. 8. Crossing Grange Bridge there is a stiff pull up and then fair going till Cat Bells is rounded, when a steep, awkward, tAvisting descent (gate) joins the route from Buttermere. Surface mostly good. The reverse way, less popular, is easier riding. 10. Round Bassenthwaite (17 miles). The surface is good throughout, and though there are many ups and downs there is nothing to trouble the careful cycUst or motorist. The easiest ride from Keswick. 11. Round Thirlmere (18 miles). Practically the reverse of Route i. Take the west side of Thirlmere for the outward journey. On the return the Vale of St. John can be added at a cost of two miles, and this gives a more gradual descent into Keswick, the Penrith road being joined at the third milestone. CYCLING AND MOTORING 57 12. The Western Dales. The roads in the west are poorer in surface and more abruptly graded than in the centre and east, but the following itinerary is a perfectly practicable one : — Buttermere, along Crummock Water, Scale Hill, cross River Cocker, along Loweswater, climb up to Lamplugh. Very hilly, and latterly through narrow winding lanes and some gates to the A nglers' Inn, on the shore of Ennerdale Lake. (Very poor road along the lake side and up the dale). Descend to Ennerdale Bridge, then fair road round base of hills by Egre- mont to Calder Bridge ; or a poorer, hilher route, with fine sea views, over Cold Fell and by Calder Abbey to same place. Good undulating road to Gosforth. (Keep left for Wasdale Head : 9 miles of fair road gradually degenerating.) Good to Ravenglass (village half mile away on right). Climb by Muncaster Castle into Eskdale (good private road, used by privilege, on left to Eskdale Green). Poor road to Bootle, good to Millom. Excessively hilly to Broughton and even more so to Barrow (rail advisable from Millom to Askam). Then good but hilly to Ulverston. Excellent to Newby Bridge (care required) and Windermere. 13. Hardknott and Wrynose Passes. These passes, connecting Eskdale with Langdale, are only suitable for the hardiest cyclist, as not half the total distance is rideable. Two hours for the seven miles (foot of pass to the foot of the other) would be very excellent time. There is a movement to improve this road. Although the estimated cost is great there is no question that such a direct route to West Cumberland is a necessity. 14. The Duddon Valley. The road is poor throughout, but from Ulpha to Seathwaite there is some fair going. At the upper end it becomes a green field road and joins Route 13 at Cockley Beck Bridge, the junction of the Hardknott and Wrynose Passes. OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS. FOR the first few ascents it is advisable to take a guide of the biped variety. A map (not less than one inch to the mile) and a compass should always be carried. Stout nailed boots should be worn. The ascents given can be used as descents and vice versa, according to the point from which the start is made (of course instructions for turning right or left must be interpreted correspondingly). Descents marked (A) are good alternative routes of ascent. A rites (narrow ridges) should be avoided in wet or windy weather, especially if the wind is blowing in gusts. In mists it is better to keep off the fells. Places noted as steep, narrow, etc., should be approached slowly. Violent exercise, even on level ground, often occasions giddiness ; and many people experience for a time at any rate, a feeling of wavering on ridges, or at the edge of precipices, which even slight temporary fatigue, is likely to increase to a disagreeable and possibly dangerous degree. The arrangement of the fells in groups notified on p. 35 is adhered to. Only the paths marked on the maps there referred to are dealt with particularly. Those who follow the other routes here indicated, and especially adventurous spirits who are disposed to disregard recognized tracts, are warned that crags and precipices abound, that they very often form the unexpectedly abrupt termination of upward slopes, and that a fall of 30 feet is generally as efiective as one of 300. It is sound advice to follow the watersheds. The Helvellyn, Great Gable and High Street groups are pecuharly favourable to this mode of travelling. All fells are worth visiting, but tourists may not consider that some repay the extra fatigue of a d6tour from the main ascent. vSuch fells are marked (?). R=right ; L=left. For details as to views, etc., see the sub-section Fells, at the end of each of the Southern, Northern and Eastern sections into which the book is divided. 58 OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS 59 {a) Skiddaw and Saddleback Group {see p. 128). With Carrick, Bowscale, and Lonscale Fells, Carlside, Great Calva and UUock Pike. The travelHng throughout is gener- ally easy. Many precipices on Saddleback. Skiddaw. From Keswick. Pass under railway station. Turn L to lane with sign-post " To Skiddaw " ; then R up lane to gate ; R through another gate ; L through another gate up past white hut ; where the wall bends R, turn R and then L at once (the path R leads to Lonscale Fell). Continue over shoulder and along Keswick edge of plateau. Leave Low Man L, skirting base, and follow unmistakable path to High Man. Descents. To Keswick, (i) Vid Applethwaite from Low Man. (2) Vid Millbeck, down first ghyll beyond Low Man. Neither recommended ; steep, troublesome, much scree.. (3) From S. point of High Man, down ridge to summit of Carlside, thence to Millbeck, keeping as nearly as possible in line with west side of Derwentwater. Scree (very steep) and some rock. To Skiddaw Forest. From S. point, High Man, drop down slope, E. and N.E. to Skiddaw House. Much swampy ground in Forest. Lonscale Fell. Route already indicated ; or R from gate at foot of beginning of ascent to hut. Easy. To Bassenthwaite Lake Station. Descend from S. cairn to Carlside by some steep scree and R vid Longside in the direc- tion of Ullock Pike, or from High Man by way of Bassen- thwaite Common (A). Dead Crags on this last route are worth visiting by short detour R. Saddleback. From Threlkeld vid Scales village. From inn at Scales follow path over E. shoulder of Scales Fell, inclining L continually till Scales Tarn is R, then go straight up grass slope. Crags and precipices at both ends of saddle worth viewing. Descents. Anywhere down grass slope towards Lonscale Fell inclining L (A). The upper track along valley (fine views) leads to Threlkeld village direct. The lower, close by beck, also to Threlkeld, for Keswick,ym Brundholme Woods, turning off at Derwentfolds. The path down Halls Fell Top not recommended — rough, narrow, craggy. Doddick (A) or Gate Ghyll Fells, also rough, are easier, the former being preferable. Bowscale Fell, from Troutbeck Station vid Mungrisdale village. Turn L and follow unmistakable cart-track behind village on to fell. Bannerdale Crags, L, worth viewing. Carrick Fells are best seen from below. For these follow the road northward through Mungrisdale. 6o OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS Great Calva (?) may be visited when passing from Skiddaw to Saddleback. (5) Grassmoor Group {see p. 127). Grassmoor, Eel Crag, Sail, Scar Crags, Sand Hill, Hob- carton, Hope-Ghyll Head, Whiteside, Grisedale, Whiteless and Causey Pikes. Travelling generally easy. Some narrow ridges. Grassmoor from Braithwaite. Pass through village and take first fell path L on Whinlatter Road with Grisedale Pike R, skirting base. Ascend Force Crag {steep), with stream L. Inclining slightly R reach top of Coledale Pass. Then turn L along stream to near source and climb Grassmoor R. Visit all points of plateau, as the views are unsurpassed. In re- turning by this route, keep Force Crag L. Grassmoor may be easily combined in an excursion with Grisedale Pike {see below). Return. To Newlands Vale for Braithwaite and Keswick. From source of stream turn L, instead of R as for Grassmoor, (above) over Eel Crag, down' steep ridge over narrow ridges by Sail and Scar Crags to Causey Pike, Descent from Causey over Rowling End steep. An alternative is to return a short distance and drop down grass slope R, i.e. west, on to old cart- track between Causey and Outerside. To Buttermere. Starting with Grassmoor R and Eel Crag L, cross narrow ridge and descend Whiteless Pike (steep : path marked on map slightly L of Pike, but it is better to keep Pike L). To Scale Hill (Cockermouth road ; Crummock Water). From top of Coledale Pass descend rough path by ghyU between Grassmoor and Whiteside. Grisedale Pike. From Braithwaite, second fell path L on Whinlatter Road. From shoulder (Kim) keep to outside ridge. Final ascent steep, top narrow. Wall and wire fence lead to Sand Hill. View Hobcarton Crags, R, and descend L to Coledale Pass. From this point Grassmoor may be easily ascended {see above). Hobcarton (?). A rough passage down a ridge R from Grisedale Pike, Scalehill may be reached by continuing from Sand Hill over the narrow ridge of Whiteside, ending in a steep, rough descent. Grisedale Pike and Hobcarton may also be reached from the Whinlatter Pass. (c) Buttermere Group {see p. 128). High Crag, High Stile, Red Pike, with Starling Dodd, and Herdhouse. OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS 61 Travelling on the three principal fells somewhat rough. Upper ridge is precipitous towards Buttermere. Red Pike from Buttermere village. Leave hotels R, cross bridge, turn L to Sour Mill Ghyll, ascend L by well-marked path to first ridge, turn R sharp along wood to Bleaberry Tarn (which may be reached direct by way of ghyll ; the cUmb is stiff) ; in- cline R up screes to Red Pike. Descents. To Crummock Water. From tarn skirt base of Pike, with Pike L, and go on till Ruddy Beck is in sight, then inchne R and descend steeply with beck L. To Scale Force, Crummock Water. (A. This is the ascent from which to start the round of the Buttermere Fells. ) From Pike with back to High Stile descend, inclining R, when a beck is reached. A wire fence is a useful guide. Last portion rather rough. The Force itself impracticable. To Scarf Gap for Gatesgarth. Follow ridge line by wire fence L from Pike above the tarn, over High Stile and High Crag, and by steep, rough descent to Scarf Gap, turn L for Gatesgarth by well-marked path. Keep Buttermere in sight when on ridge line. To Gillerthwaite, Ennerdale. With back to Red Pike,[and facing Ennerdale, drop down slope. Starling Dodd (?) and Herdhouse (?). R from head of Scale Force. From Herdhouse incline R to Floutern Tarn (i25(> feet), whence footpath R leads to Scale Force {see p, 122). Meibreak, above Crummock Water, is better worth visiting. {d) Pillar Group {see p. 149). Pillar Mountain, Steeple, Red Pike, Haycock, Yewbarrow^ Looking Stead, with Seatallan. Travelling rough and in places difficult. Pillar Mountain from Wasdale Head. From summit of Black Sail Pass turn L, over Looking Stead, and keep ridge line by wire fence to summit. (Pillar Rock below R.) {See also p. 149). It is shorter but rather harder work to leave the Black Sail track at the head of Mosedale Valley, striking straight up Looking Stead. From Mosedale. Turn L before foot of pass, and climb gully R of gullv with beck, to Windy Gap. Climb steep and arduous. From Gap turn R to summit. Descents. To Ennerdale. Continue last-named route over Windy Gap between Pillar and Steeple, inchning slightly L. Rough. To Wasdale, vid Steeple and Red Pike, from Windy Gap with back to Pillar. Incline R to top of Steeple, and then L along ridge line over Red Pike to Dora Head, when turn 62 OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS sharp L or incline R down either side of Yewbarrow viA Mosedale or Overbeck. Great Scoatfell and Haycock, and other fells (?), may be visited from Steeple by turning S.W., whence Wast water may be reached over Seatallan, descending by Greendale Tarn or Netherbeck ; W. from Steeple there is an almost indefinite ramble over by Iron Crag towards St. Bees Head. {e) Scafell Group {see p. 146). Scafell Pike, Lingmell, Scafell, Great End, Bowfell, Crinkle Crags, Shelter Crags, Allen Crags, Glaramara, Seathwaite, Harter, and Rosthwaite Fells, Pike o' Blisco. TraveUing generally rough and even difficult. Strangers especially are advised not to leave the recognized tracks. Esk Hause, the hub of the group, is reached — (i) From Mickleden (head of Langdale) L from sheep-fold by Rossett Ghyll Pass (bad). (2) From Wasdale Head by Stye Head Pass (stony). (3) From Eskdale by following R branch of Esk from Esk Falls (right means, of course, proper right v/ith regard to streams). (4) From Seathwaite by the Stye Head Pass. (5) From Seathwaite by Grain Ghyll, cross to the R over Stockley Bridge, and then turn L, through gap in wall, passing between Seathwaite Fell and Glaramara. The Hause is an excellent place to make for in misty weather if astray on the Pikes. From Esk Hause Shelter (facing Eskdale) to Scafell Pike (path marked by cairns) and Great End. Turn R towards Great End (which should certainly be climbed en route). Passing Great End Shelter incline L and make for summit along ridges (rough, boulders). Bowfell and Crinkle Crags (very wild and rough). L from Esk Hause Shelter over Esk Pike and along ridge Hne (keeping rather to Langdale side) to Bowfell. Scramble down R of Three Tarns, make R semicircle to avoid Shelter Crags, climb Crinkle Crags, make another shorter R semicircle and then the ridge line may be followed straight away over Cold Pike to Wrynose Pass. From Esk Hause one may also reach : — Glaramara, best ascended from Rosthwaite, thus : From main road through gate just beyond the turning to Stone- thwaite turn L with stream R to mill, inclining R by wood to foot of fell (here path from SeatoUer and Thornythwaite joins). Follow ridge line, choosing R side to head of combe, and thence to peaks (craggy). For Esk Hause continue S. by Allen Crags, over very rough ground. Both sides of fell precipitous. Views very fine. Rosthwaite (locally Chapel) Fell (?). N. by E. from Glara- OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS 63 mara peaks. Alternate swamp and crag. There is a possible descent at its juncture with Glaramara to sheepfold in Combe Ghyll. Seathwaite Fell (?) may be visited from almost any part of Stye Head Pass between Base Brown and SprinkUng Tarn, Bowfell from Langdale. From Stool End Farm straight up ridge (The Band) between Oxenden and Mickleden ; a very rough finish may be avoided by a L turn below final rocks . From Eskdale. From Esk Fall follow L branch of Esk (Lingcove) Beck till the Three Tarns basin is in sight, then incHne L up steep slope. Pike 0* Blisco. From Langdale. Follow Brown Ghyll to Red Tarn and strike L. There is a path S.E. to the Wrynose Pass above Fell Foot, and a descent N,E. by Kettle Ghyll. Scafell Pike {a) from Upper Eskdale. Walk up dale by R branch of Esk from Esk Falls to Cam Spout ; turn L, then R, sldrting Scafell precipice ; climb very steeply L to narrow Mickledore Ridge, which cross, and cHmb roughly direct to Pike (a very fagging course, especially towards finish). {b) From Wasdale : Cross new bridge and turn immedi- ately R, by the new path leased from Lord Lcconfield by the local Fell and Rock Climbing Club, for Brown Tongue {see p. 146). From Brown Tongue incHne L to tableland between Lingmell and the Pike (Lingmell L, worth a visit). For Pike turn sharp R and follow cairns to summit, rough. To return, descend path N. to foot of first slope, then take rough route down scree to Piers Ghyll head. Then with Piers Ghyll well L, scramble down to Greta Beck, cross at tree, and with Lingmell Beck L make for Wasdale, but the Piers Ghyll side should only be visited in fine weather. The Ghyll itself must be avoided at all costs. Scafell is best reached from the head of Wastwater, by Lingmell Ghyll, striking up R by Green How with Crags well L. Lord's Rake not recommended and Broadstand is a rock- climber's route needing the use of the rope. From Boot, follow Eskdale to just beyond Cam Spout, strike up sharp L, scrambling steeply and roughly to summit (not recom- mended). Return over sloping shoulder, incHning R to visit Bummoor Tarn (852 feet), an easy route (A from Boot). From Cairn with back to Scafell Pike there is a regular descent R to foot of Screes by Wasdale Hall (Up er Wasdale). Harter Fell, between Duddon Valley and Eskdale, best reached from Boot in Eskdale. It is also accessible from Coniston by Wrynose and Hardknott Passes. (/) Great Gable Group {see p. 148). Great and Green Gables, Kirkfell, Brandreth, Grey Knotts, 64 OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS and Fleetwith Pike. Travelling moderate ; rough towards Wasdale. Great Gable (a very fine view-pomt) from Honister Hause. Up fell with " drum house " R, over Grey Knotts, Brandreth, and Green Gable, by wire fence to Wind Gap, whence ascend by cairns, inclining generally L to avoid Ennerdale rocks. Descents. To Stye Head Tarn from Wind Gap. (A. The usual route, but much inferior to the above.) To summit of Stye Head Pass (A). Face pony track to Esk Hause, a rough, steep scramble. Avoid rocks to R. To Gatesgarth, From top of Brandreth, with back to Kirkfell, descend L, uninteresting, swampy, easy to get oft track. Green Crag, at the head of Warnscale Bottom, must be kept L, the descent being made between it and Fleetwith. To Seathwaite by Gillercombe. From N. slope of Green Gable inchne R for L side of Base Brown and descend with Sour Milk Ghyll L, rough (not recommended). Kirkfell. Walk a short way along Mosedale and strike up slope R. No track, and very steep end slippery. A long grind. From Great Gable, cross intervening depression direct rough. (From this gap there is a track, Moses' Sledgate, below Great and Green Gable screes to Brandreth. Between the Gables you can turn R for Wind Gap.) From Black Sail Pass turn R and along wire fence as closely as crags will admit. Rough. Fleetwith Pike. From Honister Hause walk over Honister Crag and descend steeply and roughly to Gatescarth, keeping the summit of the ridge (A.) (g) Newlands Group [see p. 126). Dalehead, Hindscarth, Robinson. TraveUing moderately easy, though precipices are numerous. From Keswick. Row or walk to N. end of Catbells, follow ridge line over Maiden Moor and Eel Crags to above Ros- thwaite, descend and turn R by Dalehead Tarn over Dale- head ; continue with Hindscarth R up Robinson, keeping rather to Buttermere side till the ascent R to the summit cairn. Thence the track runs R towards Newlands end of Hind- scarth ; it is easier going to turn rather more R. Follow the beck, with beck R, to Newlands church. Descents. From Dalehead Tarn facing Dalehead. R by track down Newlands Vale ; L by track to Hause Ghyll, Honis- ter Pass. Neither recommended. Opposite the trolley track there is a good track along the side of Scawdale Fell^to Grange. > % •• Lakes. G. P. Abraham,] [Keswick. BLEA TARN COTTAGE, LITTLE LANGDALE. lO OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS 65 From beyond Dalehead over Hindscarth and down Scope End to Newlands. From Robinson by Buttermere Moss, keeping somewhat to the left at first to avoid Crags, to Buttermere. From Butter- mere Moss an old sledge-track (A for Robinson from Butter- mere) leads out on to the Keswick road near Newlands Hause. The general inclination after reaching Buttermere Moss is R. There is a descent from Dalehead Tarn to Rosthwaite. The wire fence running from Dalehead to Robinson may be followed southwards to Honister Hause. In misty weather keep a sharp Icok-out for quarries on the Yew Crag side of Dalehead. It is better to keep N. of the fence. (h) High Raise Group {see p. 107). Langdale Pikes, Sergeant Man, High Raise, Ullscarf. Travelling generally easy. Langdale Pikes from Langdale— Dungeon Ghyll. (The Pikes themselves are ascended from behind — the north side.) (i) With Ghyll R follow track L (roughish) to wet ground between Pikes. In this ascent it is weU to pass beyond the head of the ghylls instead of crossing them. As a descent this route is not recommended. (2) Follow track R, with Millbeck R, to Stickle Tarn (1540 feet), and climb L steeply between Pavey Ark and Harrison Stickle. Care must be taken in descending by this route to keep Harrison Stickle, the highest of the Pikes, R, and to keep midway between it and Pavey Ark {see p. 107). (3) Sweep right round beyond tarn in a semicircle, with tarn L the whole time, over Pavey Ark to Harrison Stickle and Pike o' Stickle, from which a descent can be made to Stake Pass. From Grasmere by Blea Rigg. Follow track by AUan Bank. Passing Silver How L turn R, and follow track up Blea Rigg, with ridge L and Easedale and Codale Tarns below R to Low White Stones and Sergeant Man. The next turning (from Grasmere) N. on Keswick road leads below by inferior route by Easedale Tarn and Codale Tarn (1528 feet) to Low White Stones, whence is a descent L to Stickle Tarn. Steepish and swampy after Easedale Tarn, By turning R from bridge early on this route you can cross by Far Easedale over Greenup to Borrowdale. The views from the Pikes are fine, but inferior to those from — High Raise, due north from Pikes over moorland {see p. 107) past Thunacar Knott, or from Sergeant Man with Manchester Corporation fence R. The ascent from Keswick is made from Greenup with Lining Crag R, after which incline R. English Lalts (e) 66 OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS Ullscarf, from High Raise due N. over moor. From it ono can descend irregularly to Watendlath, Keswick, Wythbum, or Rosthwaite. (i) Helvellyn Group [see p. 137). Helvellyn and the^Dodds, Raise, Fairfield, St. Sunday, Hart and Dove Crags, DoUywaggon Pike, and Red Screes. Tra- velling moderately easy. The distances are much greater than appears from the map — a rule in mountainous districts. Helvellyn. — From Threlkeld there is a path R of quarries (avoid Wanthwaite Crags), or a more easy ascent a httle way along Matterdale. All the Dodds and Raise are included, and "from Helvellyn the walk may be continued by Grisedale Tarn over Fairfield to Grasmere, or right on by Red Screes to Ambleside. By diversions R or L many of the minor points, which are too numerous to treat in detail, may be visited. From Thirlspot. Incline L, and then with Fisher Ghyll L, turn R for summit along ridge Une. Or, by wood beyond Thirlspot follow Helvellyn Ghyll, with Ghyll L, steeply to ridge line, which follow R to summit. From Wythbum. Pass church ; turn R through gate up side of ravine, from top of which follow track L for summit. From Ullswater Hotel turn R to Green side Smelting Mill, then go straight on (the track R joins Sticks Pass) to Keppel- cove Tarn, then ascend R with turn L, sweeping round the heights above the tarn for summit. By Swirrel Edge. Passing Greenside Mill follow L branch of stream and by white posts to Red Tarn, and with tarn L climb ridge and scramble thence to summit (rough, steep, boulders). (Track to edge not given on map. It is longer but preferable to take the Striding Edge route {see below) as far as the gate in the wall.) By Striding Edge. Before reaching Patterdale church from west turn R up Grisedale, then R by sign-post by copse over common to gate in wall, and along edge (with tarn R). The final chmb is trying — special care must be taken descending. (Between two last routes a track L from Glenridding leads over Birkhouse Moor to this gate.) Neither edge recommended. From Grisedale Tarn. Strike L steeply up DoUywaggon Pike, which visit, and thence by ridge line to summit. This is the continuation of the route over — Fairfield from Ambleside. From Rydal Road turn R for Low Sweden Bridge (finger-post ; see pp. 81 and 106), follow wall over Scandale Fell to Dove Crag, thence L round head of Rydal by Hart Crag (rough) to summit. Descents (facing Brothers' Water). From Dove Crag, roughly and steeply, straight down to Dovedale (no track on OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS 67 map), keeping stream L; wire fence a guide. From Dove Crag R with Little Hart Crag L for Red Screes. From Hart Crag sharply between Deepdale and Dovedale over Hartsop, above How (an awkward route), and thence to Patterdale, or — From Fairfield, incUning L at first, by narrow ridge (Cofa Pike ; not recommended) R to St. Sunday Crag, thence by a sharp descent the ridge line may be followed to Patterdale, or you may drop down L to Grisedale from the first depression beyond St. Sunday Crag. (Facing Grasmere) for Grisedale Pass from Fairfield follow stone wall R to head of pass by tarn. Seat Sandal may be visited from this point. From Fairfield for Grasmere or Rydal (facing Grasmere). Go straight ahead over Great Rigg ; path divides — (a) Along R ridge hne for Grasmere (the easiest way, between Stone Arthur and Greenhead Ghyll), pony track ; (&) along L ridge line to Heron Pike ; path again divides ; (c) for Grasmere or Rydal R through gate in wire fence to Rydal Glen, or {d) for Rydal somewhat Roughly over Nab Scar and steeply thence to Rydal, incUning L. (a), (b) and (c) are excellent lines of ascent. Red Screes from Ambleside. About a mile up Kirkstone Pass turn L and follow up ridge line over Snarker Pike for summit, whence is a very steep, rough descent R to head of pass, and an easier one L for ascent to Dove Crag. Red Screes may also be reached by following the Sweden Bridge route {see Fairfield above) and turning R instead of L as for Dove Crag. This is the least arduous ascent. From Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, turning L beyond Brothers Water, and by Caistone Glen (p. 1 5 2 ) to Scandale Head and then L to summit. Place Fell from Patterdale. Take road almost opposite Post Office, then R by path to Boardale Hause ; then L to summit, inclining first R and then L sharply to ridge line. Descents. For Howton (by Boardale) continue incUning R or foUow ridge line to first depression, whence by grass path turn L and then R for lake side (somewhat rough). [k) High Street Group {see p. 140). High Street, Kidsty Pike, lU Bell, Froswick, Caudale Moor, Harter Fell, High Raise, etc. Travelling generaUy easy. Some fine lofty crags. This group is even more suitable than the foregoing for a " watershed walk," with excursions R and L. Best undertaken from north to south. Steamer from Pooley Bridge to Howtown, whence follow Fusedale Beck up to its fork ; then L to Weather Hill, or R 68 OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS from Howtown to Cowgarth, thence L past wood, R by long ridge line to midway between Weather Hill and High Raise. With Ullswater L visit Loadpot Hill. The Roman Road may be followed thence L to Penrith Road near the Round Table. There is a road R to Askham and Lowther Castle. Descents. From Roman Road with Ullswater R. From Weather Hill to Hawes Water. Descend L, from Low Kop incline R to Measand Beck ; cross at foot-bridge. After passing High Raise, from Kidsty Pike (somewhat rough), L by track down broken shoulder between becks for Riggindale and Mardale, inclining R on lower slopes (steep), with Hayeswater L, to Hayeswater Ghyll. Cross, and with ghyll R go to Low Hartsop, continuing for Patterdale. The R branch of this track from above Hayeswater is a ridge- line walk by Angle Tarn to Boardale Hause. From High Street, L, roughly and narrowly, by Rough Crag (L) to Mardale, inclining L on lower slopes. From High Street incUne L round Blea Water and continue on ridge to head of Nan Bield pass, whence path descends by Small Water to Mardale. Following Roman Road to Thomthwaite Crag (usually wet going ; in misty weather follow wall to column on Thomthwaite Crag) are many routes. From Thomthwaite Crag (a fine view-point), facing Winder- mere, steeply R by Thresthwaite Hause and Cove, by Pasture Beck to Brothers Water. (From the Hause a rough ascent conducts over Caudale Moor to Kirkstone Pass, inclining L.) From Thomthwaite Crag (by Roman Road) or Thres- thwaite Hause 3^ou can reach Troutbeck on either side of the Tongue. Best to continue S. by Froswick and 111 Bell over Yoke (wire fence all the way) to Garburn Pass for Windermere. Harter Fell, between Nan Bield Pass and Gatescarth Pass, which divides it from Branstree. The tourist will easily find the point of least resistance by studying the contours. The faces towards Hawes Water are steep. (/) Coniston Group {see p. io8). Old Man, Carrs, Wetherlam, Great How Crags, Dow Crags, Grey Friar. Travelling generally easy, but there is much rough ground, and quarries are a nuisance and danger. Ascents to the Old Man [see p. io8). From Church follow Church Beck L to bridge ; then L by stile over wall to Low Water (a road from Walna Scar route joins this route), or follow pony track with stream L to copper mines, and then turn L for Low Water, which is left well R, With tarn R steeply to summit, inclining L first and R at Lakes. II 12 OUTLINE GUIDE FOR PEDESTRIANS 69 ■end. There are numerous and misleading miners' paths here. It is more enjoyable to leave them all R, and make one's own way to the summit. From Walna Scar Pass R up the shoulder, with Goats- water L (A). From further along the pass westwards, R, by Goatswater, very steep (not recommended). From the head of pass R to Dow Crags (precipitous), thence incUne R round Goatswater to Old Man. From Dow Crag to Old Man means a considerable descent and climb. From Old Man with Low ,^ Water R go N. to Fairfield, Thence to Great How Crags. IncUne L, with Seathwaite Tarn L, and visit Grey Friar, thence sharply R to Carrs. Thence continue N., inclining R at first and then L direct to the head of Wry nose (rough). ^ From Carrs, facing Langdale, there is a steep descent R to Wetherlam. Care required at first; go straight to summit. Descents from Wetherlam, facing Langdale. To Little Langdale. Incline R to above wood, and then L, making for some copper works. To Tilberthwaite, sharply R and steeply down. Not nice. Stones and bilberry bushes. With back to Langdale for Coniston. Inchne slightly R, making for copper mines in glen. Lower slopes steep. THE SOUTHERN, OR WINDERMERE, SECTION. THE chief centres in this section are grouped round Lake Windermere, viz., Bowness and Windermere (prac- tically one), on its eastern side ; Ambleside and Grasmere» near its northern end ; and Coniston, some five miles west- ward of Windermere. We shaU describe each in turn, with the principal drives and walks therefrom, premising that as the first three centres are so near and so closely linked by vehicular and boat ser- vices the excursions are almost interchangeable, and can in many cases be taken almost as conveniently from one centre as from another. This is especially true as regards the drives , and we have therefore grouped all such particulars under one heading {see p. 93). BOWNESS AND WINDERMERE. Approach. — ^This most beautiful and popular part of Lakeland is reached f either vid the Kendal and Windermere branch from Oxenholme Junction, on the main line of the London and North- Western Railway, or by the Fumess Railway to Lake-Side Station, thence by steamer up the Lake to Bowness. Banks. — J^iverpool, Manchester & Liverpool at Windermere ; Liverpool, London, City & Midland, Manchester & Liverpool, at Bowness. Early closing, Thursday. '>■ Bathing Shed. — Near Millerground landing. Charges : Visitors, is. a week j 2,d. a day ; members over 18, 2s. 6d. season ; under, is. Costumes and towels, id. The shed is reserved for ladies from 10 a.m. to noon. Boats (Bowness and Millerground). — is. an hour. Drives from Windermere and Bowness, see p. 93. Ferry. — Between Ferry Nab, about a mile below Bowness, and' the Ferry Hotel on the western shore, a ferry plies regularly. Fares, single or return, 2d, ; cyclists with machines, ^d. Coaches, carriages, horses and motors are also taken. GoU. — Fine eighteen- hole course on the Kendal Road, about a mile from Bow- ness Pier. Visitors : 2s. 6d. day, los. week, 25s. month. There is also a nine-hole course at Birthwaite, overlooking the Lake, is. 6d. a day, 5s. week, I OS. month. Hotels and Tariffs. — See Introduction. Institute, with reading rooms, etc.. North Terrace. Motors. — Constant service of public motors between Windermere, Waterhead, Ambleside and Grasmere. Windermere to Ambleside, is. 6d. single ; 2s. 6d. return. Windermere to Grasmere, 2s. ^^d. single ; 3s. gd. return. Ambleside to Grasmere, gd. single ; is. 6d. return. Omnibuses. — There is a regular ser\'ice of omnibuses between Windermere station and the pier at Bowness. Places of Worship. — St. Mary's, St. John's, Parish Church (Bowness), St. Mar 70 WINDERMERE, CONISTON & DISTRICT WARD, LOCK. & CO , LTD.. Warwick House. SaJisbuiy Square. LONDON, WINDERMERE 71 garet's (Low Wray, on the west side of the Lake) ; Roman Catholic, Congrt- gaiional, Wesleyan and Plymouth Brfthren. Post OfiBce. — Head Ofi&ce, Windermere ; Bowness ; and branch office in Lake Road. Letters should be addressed to Bowness-on-WindenDf^re, not Bowness simply. Railway Station in Windermere village. Steamer Pier at Bowness. Windermere and Bowness are practically one and the same village. They are on the eastern side of the Lake, about 4 miles from its head, Windermere inland, Bowness on the water's edge. Windermere. Owing to its natural beauty, protected situation, and other attractive features, Windermere is popular not only as a holiday resort but as a permanent summer and winter resi- dence. It is entirely modem and includes many residential villas embowered in trees and shrubs and surrounded by beautiful gardens. The village is nearly five hundred feet above sea-level, and fully three hundred feet above the Lake, from which it is distant by the road to Bowness nearly a mile and three-quarters, though there are several footpaths through a prettily wooded bit of country by which the shore can be reached in half an hour's easy walk. One of the finest views of the Lake in the immediate neighbourhood is obtained from the terrace in front of Rigg's Hotel. St. Mary*s Church, a few hundred yards on the Amble- side road, was built by the Rev. J.Addison, the first incum- bent, and afterwards enlarged by the addition of south and north aisles. The tower contains a sweet- toned peal of eight bells. Not far from the Station, a little north of the road, is Elleray, once the residence of Professor Wilson [see p. 50). At the junction of the roads from Windermere station to Bowness is a monument to the late Mr. M. J. B, Baddeley, of guide-book fame. Bowness has been well described as a " labyrinth of small streets," in which it is equally difficult for a stranger to lose his way or to decide off-hand exactly where he is. It contains numerous pretty residences and boarding-houses, and is a good centre for aquatic and other excursions. Apart from the surround- ing scenery, there is httle to interest the visitor except the DISTRICT Capyrii I JohiiTi3rtLolDnieiw& Co-t^ai-.i.'^ •Square, LONDON. WINDERMERE 71 garet's (Low Wray, on the west side of the Lake) ; Roman Catholic, Congre- gatiotml, Wesleyan and Plymouth Brfthren. Post Offlee. — Head OfiEice, Windermere ; Bowness ; and branch office in Lake Road. Letters should be addressed to Bowness-nri-WinderrDfTe, not Bowness simply. Railway Station in Windermere village. Steamer Pier at Bowness. Windermere and Bowness are practically one and the same village. They are on the eastern side of the Lake, about 4 miles from its head, Windermere inland, Bowness on the water's edge. Windermere. Owing to its natural beauty, protected situation, and other attractive features, Windermere is popular not only as a hoUday resort but as a permanent summer and winter resi- dence. It is entirely modem and includes many residential villas embowered in trees and shrubs and surrounded by beautiful gardens. The village is nearly five hundred feet above sea-level, and fully three hundred feet above the Lake, from which it is distant by the road to Bowness nearly a mile and three-quarters, though there are several footpaths through a prettily wooded bit of country by which the shore can be reached in half an hour's easy walk. One of the finest views of the Lake in the immediate neighbourhood is obtained from the terrace in front of Rigg's Hotel. St. Mary's Church, a few hundred yards on the Amble- side road, was built by the Rev. J.Addison, the first incum- bent, and afterwards enlarged by the addition of south and north aisles. The tower contains a sweet- toned peal of eight bells. Not far from the Station, a little north of the road, is Elleray, once the residence of Professor Wilson [see p. 50). At the junction of the roads from Windermere station to Bowness is a monument to the late Mr. M. J. B. Baddeley, of guide-book fame. Bowness has been well described as a " labyrinth of small streets," in which it is equally difficult for a stranger to lose his way or to decide off-hand exactly where he is. It contains numerous pretty residences and boarding-houses, and is a good centre for aquatic and other excursions. Apart from the surround- ing scenery, there is httle to interest the visitor except the 72 BOW NESS Church, an ancient structure, with square tower, dedicated to St, Martin. In the churchyard are several ancient yews. A few moments at least should be spared to examine the beauti- ful east window, one of the oldest in the kingdom, taken from Cartmel Priory {see p. 162). The three lights in the centre, representing the Crucifixion, form one of the finest examples of glass painting extant. The stencilling on the walls is very curious. A recent addition is an oak case containing a " breeches " Bible ; a book of Homilies by Latimer, Ridley and Cranmer ; a book of Homilies by Bishop Jewel and his Apology for the Church of England ; a Paraphrase of the Gospel by Erasmus, and a pewter plate and flagon, once used in the Communion Service. An excellent history of the church has lately been published by the Rector. Bowness — which, by the way, should be pronounced Bowness, not Bowness — is the real " port " of the Lake and the centre of the ^^achting competitions. The boating facilities are first-rate, the craft being all sound and com- fortable, and the owners and their men under strict regula- tions designed for the safety of the public. The craft include electric and motor launches. Yachting and boating (see pp. 41 and 43) are very popular amusements, and the races and other competitions frequently organized excite keen interest. Swimming matches are also arranged. WINDERMERE LAKE. Steamer Fares. Single. ^ ^— V First Second R. Jtiim. First Second Class. Class. Class. Class. Waterhead to— Low Wood . id. . . 3i. . 6d. .. 4d. Bowness . I/- .. gd. .. . 1/6 .. i/- The Ferry .1/3 .. I/- .. . 1/9 •• r/3 Storrs .1/3 .. I/- .. . 1/9 1/3 Lake Side .2/- .. 1/6 .. • 3/- 2/6 Round of Lake — ist, 3/-; 2nd, 2/6. Full week tickets on the Lake (seven days) — ist, 8/- ; 2nd, 6/-. The Lake has a length from north to south of about ten miles, with an average width of a mile. From Lake-Side, at the southern end of the Lake, the comfortable steam yachts of the Furness Railway Co. start on their trips up this fine sheet of water. Though the lower reaches are tamer than the upper ones, the trip is very WINDERMERE 73 enjoyable. Opposite the steamboat pier is the small but pleasantly situated hamlet of Town Head, with Gummer's How above it. Behind Lake-Side station the hills of Finsthwaite and Rusland fill in the background. Lake-Side to Waterhead. Proceeding up the Lake we pass, in rather more than a mile, Blake Holme, on the eastern shore, with the promontory of Long Tongue jutting from the opposite side. Silver Holme guards the httle bay formed by the Tongue. Grass Holme next comes into sight ; then Rawlinson Nab, with Cunsey House and Cunsey Wood behind it ; next Ling Holme, at the mouth of Cunsey Beck. Hereabouts, a little before reaching Ling Holme, we get a glimpse of the Coniston mountains ; and later of Bowfell and the Langdale Pikes. These are all on the west side of Windermere, The next object of interest, on the opposite shore, is Storrs Hall, now a first-class hotel. The hall will always be associated with the visit of the "giants " of literature to its then owner, Mr. Bolton, as recorded in Lockhart's Life of Scott. In August, 1825, when Canning was on a visit to the great merchant, Wordsworth was also staying at Storrs Hall, and Sir Walter and Professor Wilson came from Elleray to see them. A brilliant circle assembled to meet the distinguished party, and a regatta was held in their honour on the last day of the visit. Ramp Holme is next passed, and, a flag being hoisted for the steamer to call, we stop at the pier for the Ferry Hotel. A ferry {see p. 70) forms a continuation of the road from Kendal to Hawkshead. Here the Lake ifarrows, and forms a pretty, secluded creek, still and deep, overlooked and shaded by a rocky pyramid which rises abruptly from the water's edge, its steep sides covered with trees of various hues. The little inlet is cut off from the Lake by a wooded islet. From this point the mountain view keeps rising until a little south of Low Wood, when to the east and immediately ahead it begins to deteriorate. To the right the cone-shaped peak is 111 Bell, with the High Street Range and Caudale Moor to the left (west). Then comes the massive form of Red Screes, 74 WINDERMERE which continues the mountain outline over Dove Crag, Hart Crag to Fairfield and Great Rigg. The low, richly-coloured Loughrigg fills in the foreground. Next in order, turning westwards, are the graceful Langdale Pikes and the noble peak of Bowfell, the interspace being filled by Allen Crags, with Great Gable beyond. From Bowfell the wild Crinkle Crags descend to Wrynose, overlooking which is the bold outhne of Wetherlam, the easternmost height of the Coniston range, which culminates in the Old Man, conspicuous by its cairn. Leaving the Ferry, we see right before us the largest of the islands on Windermere — indeed, the only one of any size — Curwen Island, or Belle Isle (named after Mrs. Curwen, a descendant in direct Une from Ivo de Taillebois, who " came over " with the Conqueror). Being private property, access to this island is forbidden ; but all the other islands may be explored at will. Belle Isle is rather more than a mile in circumference, and contains upwards of thirty acres ; it possesses some pretty walks, shaded by fine old trees, and was the scene of severe conflicts during the Civil War. Smaller islands, on which the Hly of the valley luxuriates, cluster near Belle Isle. Steaming along the eastern side of the island, we call at Bowness pier. Continuing our course to the head of the Lake, the surroundings become grander. Among the many islets St. Mary*s, or Ladye*s, Holme attracts attention. It received its name from a chantry dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which was standing in the reign of Henry VIII., but of which no traces now remain. At about this point Wansfell Pike intervenes and shuts out 111 BeU and the High Street range. The steamer ghdes by the fine woods of Rayrigg and Elleray. Rayrigg House, standing near the water's edge, was for several years the summer residence of WiUiam Wilber- force. We next pass the woods of Calgarth Hall, formerly the residence of Bishop Watson ; on the eastern shore is High Wray. Below Calgarth is the Priory, one of the hand- somest residences in the Lake District. Ecclerigg, with its pretty pier, is next seen to the east ; and, soon after, we reach the Low Wood Hotel. On the opposite shore is Wray Castle, a splendid mansion in the Perpendicular style, commanding WINDERMERE 75 beautiful views. Not long after leaving Low Wood, the- Langdale Pikes disappear behind Loughrigg. We now rapidly approach the head of Windermere, passing Dove Nest, for one summer the residence of Mrs. Hemans, and Wansfell Holme. Towards the north, surrounding the head of the Lake, are the lofty mountains beyond Ambleside, " the stem and bleak companions of the mist and cloud." Along the western shore, as far as High Wray, a range of rocky fells rises over the water, covered here and there with birch, oak, hazel and pine, bracken and heather. The chief tributaries of Windermere are the Trouthech, the Brathay and the Rothay. The last two unite near Croft Lodge and flow into the head of the Lake. The Brathay rises at the foot of the Wrynose Pass, The Rothay rises above Dunmail Raise, and links the lakes of Grasmere and Rydal. A circumstance very interesting to the naturalist is that the char and trout, at the approach of the spawning season, pro- ceed together out of the Lake up the stream to a point where the fish uniformly separate, as if by mutual arrangement, all the char taking to the Brathay, and the trout to the Rothay. WALKS NEAR WINDERMERE AND BOWNESS. Numerous dehghtful strolls may be taken in the neighbour- hood, not the least pleasing being by the footpaths that run from Windermere village through the woods to the lake side. 1. Orrest Head, immediately to the north of Windermere village, is a spot which no one should omit to visit. The prospect is of exquisite beauty, from Windermere Lake, which is seen in its entire length, and its soft surroundings, to the rugged fells that wall in the head of Langdale. . All the mountains the tourist has seen from the steamer (pp. 73-4) are visible, and in addition a massive portion of the Scafell range comes into view between Bowfell and Crinkle Crags. Other short walks affording charming views of lake, wood- land and mountain are : — 2. To the summit of Brant Fell, returning by Matson Ground and along the Kendal high-road. 3. To Droomer Farm, along the fields and plantations by Lickbarrow Farm, etc., and home by the main road. 4. Along the road parallel with the Lake, passing Rayrigg 76 WALKS NEAR WINDERMERE Hall, to Miller Brow ; thence to the four cross roads ; return- ing by the right-hand road, past St. Mary's Church, and home through Windermere — by 'bus, if tired. 5. By Ferny Green to Storrs Hall, passing the Crown Hotel, and taking the first road to the right ; along the Ferry road to the entrance gate to Storrs Hall, and home by the Newby Bridge road. 6. Three interesting walks through the Elleray grounds, by the gate to the left of the Fountain. 7. To the Ferry, and by steamer to all the pretty spots on the Lake and the opposite shore, as incHnation prompts ; or by the Ferry to the Ferry Hotel, from which we can visit the Station, a tower with windows of variously coloured glass, through which the landscape appears by turns in the garb of all the seasons. S.T'Longer walks are to Newby Bridge and Lake Side, 9 miles, by Winster. On this walk a visit should be paid to €artmel Fell Church. Notice especially the east window, which was probably originally in Cartmel Priory, as was that of Bowness Church {see p. 72). From Lake Side one may return on foot along the western side of Windermere, but this nearly doubles the length of the walk. Most people prefer to take steamer from Lake Side to Bowness. 9. To Ambleside. (Walk or Drive.) From Windermere by the main road from the station ; from Bowness by the turning by the Royal Hotel. The roads unite close to Miller Brow. From Windermere the upper road is the shorter, but it misses the beauty of the Lake, so that the lower or Bowness route is to be preferred. Under any conditions a divergence to the left should be made from the Windermere road for the sake of the beautiful Miller Brow view, less than quarter of a mile dov/n the Bowness route. The lake side is reached again at Low Wood, from which the ■outlook is very fine, the Langdale Pikes and Bowfell being conspicuous. Betweeen Low Wood and Ambleside we pass Dove Nest (p. 75). From Ambleside we may return along the western side of the Lake by Clappersgate, Brathay Bridge, Blelham Tarn and the Ferry. As a return route it is hardly to be recom- mended, as one has one's back to the best of the scenery, but it is a very pleasant way of reacliing Ambleside. Total round about twelve miles 13 1^4 TROUTBECK 77 10. To Kirkstone Pass by Troutbeck, returning by Ambleside. (Walk or Drive.) The first Troutbeck road turns to the right out of the Ambleside road a Uttle over half a mile from Windermere ; the second about three-quarters of a mile farther on : imme- diately after crossing the Trout Beck itself, a little beyond the Sun Inn. Tom Longmire, for many years champion heavy- weight wrestler (Cumberland and Westmorland), was land- lord of the Sun Inn, and died there in 1899, aged 75 years. About two miles after leaving the Ambleside road we reach the village of Troutbeck, as traggling line of cottages and farm- steads, clustered on the western slope of the valley, about two miles from its entrance. Troutbeck was famous in olden times for its " 'statesmen " (among them the father of Hogarth, the painter) '; its wrestlers, men of great strength ; the longevity of its inhabit- ants ; its superstitions (mostly of Scandinavian origin); and its renowned Mortal Man In^i. Some of the old 'statesmen stock still survive ; and the churchyard records testify to the longe- vity of the people. The Church, which contains some fine modern stained glass, is worth looking into. Margaret Longmire, the grandmother of the champion wrestler, lived to the age of 104. When exactly ninety-nine this remarkable woman " honoured the then Prince of Wales by leading off the ball held on the occasion of his marriage at that famous village rendezvous, the ' Mortal Man.' " Adam Walker, a distinguished naturalist in his day, was a native of these parts, dying in 1821 at Richmond, Surrey, aged ninety. Another man of the valley was Julius Caesar Ibbetson, a noted landscape painter in his day, long remembered as an eccentric character, very jovial and very fat. His local fame rests on the sign he painted for The Mortal Man. Hereon he depicted, with amusing exaggeration, the portraits of two dalesmen, Nat Fleming and Ned Partridge, strikingly contrasted in physiognomy and frame : the one jolly, rubicund and rotund as himself ; the other lank, lean and pale-visaged as a ghost. Under these figures was inscribed the verse ; — " O mortal man, that lives by bread, What is it makes thy nose so red ? " " Thou silly fool, that look'st so pale, 'Tis drinking Sally Birkett's ale." The sign has long disappeared, and the ol building is not recognizable in the modern hotel. Of the many superstitious practices and beliefs of the good people of Troutbeck perhaps the most striking was that of the 78 THE TROUTBECK VALLEY *'■ Needfire," or Willfire, as it is here also termed ; willjive being perhaps a corruption of wildfire, which is used with the same import in other parts, denoting fire fresh from its hidden source, untamed and uncontaminated by domestic or ordin- ary use. The needfire was last kindled in Troutbeck during cattle distemper, in the latter part of the last century, being employed as an antidote to the evil upon all the farms of the valley. Another four miles uphill leads to the Kirkstone Pass {see p. 103). A steep descent brings us to Ambleside, whence a return is made to Bowness, keeping as near the Lake as the road will permit. The total round is about fourteen miles, of which the last four can be saved by taking the steamer from Waterhead to Bowness. Variation (walk). Rather more than half a mile short of the Kirkstone Pass a stile will be seen on the left. This takes us by field-paths to the road that runs up from Ambleside by Stock Ghyll Force. This way is rather shorter and pleasanter -dian the other. If the reverse route be selected, it is as well to take the boat from Bowness to Ambleside, returning by Troutbeck. II. The Troutbeck Valley. This beautiful valley extends for about eight miles in a southerly direction from the foot of High Street to Calgarth Park and Windermere, and affords a charming and easy ramble from that village. Proceed as in Walk 10 as far as Troutbeck village. From this point various tracks lead towards the head of the valley, that to the right of Troutbeck Tongue being, if anything, the pleasantest. The best plan, however, is to ramble up the valley as far as one feels inclined, and to ramble back by the way one likes best. Westward the valley is bounded by Wansfell (i,597 ft-)i and to the north-east by a semicircle of lofty mountains. Yoke (south of 111 Bell), the twin peaks of Froswick and 111 Bell (2,476 ft.), and High Street (2,663 ft.). The height and steepness of these enclosing fells give a sombre, secluded appearance to the upper part of the vale. From the deep hollow of the northern extremity, and occupying much of its space, rises Troutbeck Tongue (1,191 ft.), at the foot, or tip, of which stands a solitary farmstead, the last dweUing in this direction till the summit of Kirkstone has been gained. Trees continue along the wild, rocky banks and clefts of the two ri\ailets, but presently disappear, and then the cold grey mountains wear only a partial covering of pale green and yellow grass, brown rushes, bracken, and ling. In the oppo- AMBLESIDE 79 site direction, however, the scenes are contrastingly soft and luxuriant ; for the eye, ranging over the rich and fertile por- tions of the vale, gains a charming view of Windermere, with its islands, hills, and wooded promontories. The eastern branch of the stream flows between the so-called Park and the Yoke mountain through a deep, narrow, densely wooded ravine called Hag Ghyll; and there, plunging over the edge of a lofty rock, forms Hag Ghyll Force, a picturesque waterfall worthy of being better known, but not very easy of access. 12. Kentmere. It is best to take the train to Staveley station. The feature of the valley is the splendid Rainsborrow Crag, falling almost sheer from Yoke. Historically Kentmere is associated with Bernard Gilpin, " a pious divine, called the Apostle of the North," who lived — but, no thanks to Bonner, did not die — in the reign of Bloody Mary. Kentmere Hall, near the top of the valley, the home of the Gilpins, is still in habitable condition. The mere from which the valley took its name has disap- peared, having been drained by some ruthless individual, greatly to the detriment of the scenery. AMBLESIDE. Approach. — Rail to Windermere, thence by road (5 miles). Or rail vid Ulverston to Lake Side, thence by steamer up the whole length of the Lake to the pier at Waterhead. Banks. — Manchester 6- Liverpool, Liverpool and London City & Midland. Early closing Thursday. Boats. — At Waterhead, is. per hour. Conveyances. — Constant service from Waterhead to Grasmere. Drives from Ambleside, see p. 93, and Windermere. Golf. — Nine-hole course. Visitors : is. 6d. a day, 6s. week, 15s. month. Hotels and Tariffs. — See Introduction. Motors. — Constant service to Windermere and Grasmere. Places of Worship. — St. Mary's, St. Anne's, St. Mary's (Rydal), Holy Trinity (Brathay), Roman Catholic, Wesley an. Post Office. — Down the hill, in the direction of St. Mary's. Branch Ofi&ce at Waterhead. Steamer Pier at Waterhead, about three-quarters of a mile south of town. Ambleside is built on a lower ledge of Wansfell, on the border of a well- wooded valley watered by several streams, of which the principal is the Rothay, which flows from Gras- mere and Rydal lakes and joins the Brathay, from Langdale, shortly before entering Windermere. It is a very good centre for excursions, particularly for coaching, and there is an abundance of hotels and lodgings. The Old Church, in the western part of the town, was rebuilt in 1812, but became too small to accommodate the visitors in summer. St. Mary's Church was therefore erected 8o WALKS ROUND AMBLESIDE in 1854, It is an unattractive building of dark grey stone, with a stained-glass window in memory of Wordsworth, presented by English and American admirers. There is another window in memory of Matthew Arnold ; and in the churchyard is a monument to the Rt. Hon. W. E. Forster. The peal of eight bells is the best in the county. In this church, as well as at Grasmere, a rush-bearing festival takes place annually in summer. " Forth by rustic music led, The village children, while the sky is red With evening lights, advance in long array Through the still churchyard, each with garland gay That, carried sceptre-like, o'ertops the head Of the proud bearer." Waterhead (three-quarters of a mile to the south) is the headquarters of the boating on the upper end of the Lake, and the northern terminus of the Furness Railway Co.'s steam-yacht service. WALKS ROUND AMBLESIDE. I. To Jenkin Crag. This short stroll should by no means be omitted. Sign- boards direct the pedestrian from the east side of the main road. Where the path forks, keep to the right. From Jenkin Crag a track leads through a wood to the Trout- beck road, and so to its junction with the Windermere road, close to Low Wood. 2. To Stock Ghyll Force. Admission. — The waterfall is under the care of a local coramittee, of which all Ambleside councillors are members. A charge of 3^^. is made, the proceeds being devoted to clearing ofl the debt on the purchase and to expenses of maintenance. The fall is about haH a mile from the town. The way thither leads along a shady lane for two or three hundred yards, and then through the park to the left. Stock Beck rises on Red Screes (2,541 ft.), the mountain which towers above the Kirkstone Pass. Passing through Amble- .side, the stream joins the Rothay a quarter of a mile below the town, after a course of about four miles. This rivulet is one of the finest of its kind in the district. The fall is very attrac- tive, the water tumbling down the face of a rock, through a mountain glen clothed with trees and ferns, and then running among loose rocks and overhanging foHage. The water takes 15 PhotJi Oyj ■■"A;1 [0;aysi9Mf Z?!>^. RYDAL WATER. i6 WALKS ROUND AMBLESIDE 8i three leaps, being divided by projecting rocks ; the total height is seventy feet. The falls are perhaps better seen from below. More than one accident having occurred here, rail- ings have been erected for safety. 3. Scandale by High Sweden Bridge, returning by Low Sweden Bridge. Turn to the right beyond the Salutation Hotel, and to the left uphill at a lamp-post, where there is also a finger-post. Charming views over Rydal Vale are to be had during the outward walk. Round about Sweden Bridge and Scandale Beck the scenery, with foliage, water, and mountain peeps, is very attractive. Distance, four miles. 4. Skelwith Force, Elterwater and Colwith Force. The road runs along the north side of the Lake, through Clapper sgate, and thence up the beautiful Brathay valley. A little more than a mile beyond Clappersgate we turn left to Skelwith Bridge {Inn), and close at hand is Skelwith Force. Though not one of the large falls of Lakeland, its volume after heavy rain is considerable, and it should certainly be seen, preferably on Saturday afternoon or Sunday, as on other days the volume of water is much reduced by working the mill. Continuing by the riverside, the road leads us past the much underrated Elterwater lake, with Wetherlam forming a noble background. In front we have delightful glimpses of the Langdale Pikes. (The bold crag beyond Harrison Stickle is not Pike o' Stickle, as some say, but Gimmer Crag.) The village may also be reached by a rather wet footpath, which starts near the lake side. At Elterwater {Inn) we cross the bridge and follow the road to Colwith Bridge, close to Colwith Force, one of the finest series of falls in the district. It is in all some ninety feet deep. The upper portion, known as the "cascade," is more than half the total depth; the lower portion is divided by a large protruding rock. Massive stones here and there break up the water, which rushes, foaming and frothing, into a picturesque glen. A httle beyond Colwith Bridge we turn to the left by the coach road, and a mile more takes us back to Skelwith Bridge. The length of the round is about fifteen miles. 5. To Rydal and Grasmere. (Walk or Drive.) Before motors came, the walk between Ambleside and English Lakes (/) 82 RYDAL Grasmere by the high-road traversed by the coach was a dehghtful stroll amidst lovely scenery, musical with the voice of birds and waters, and fragrant with the breath of mountain and woodland. Sometimes even now one is fortunate. Leaving Ambleside by the Keswick road, we note by the Stock GhyU stream the old Bridge House and a picturesque mill. A tin shanty recently erected has depreciated this quaint corner considerably. A few hundred yards beyond, to the left, is the Knoll, where Harriet Martineau used to live ; the house is almost hidden behind a small chapel. A httle farther to the right is a curious bayonet-shaped tree, about which the drivers have a good yarn. Proceeding, we pass Rydal Hall on the right. It is surrounded by beautifully wooded grounds, though which the Rydal Beck makes its way to the Rothay. On this stream are the Rydal Waterfalls, two pretty cascades visited by most tourists. They may be seen on apphcation at the cottage near St. Mary's Church. The upper faU, in a glen above the Hall, is the finer; but the lower is generally favoured by artists. It is very beautiful as seen from a summer-house in the grounds, with the basin of rock in the foreground and the bridge above. To the left is the sweet Vale of Rydal, backed by the many- hued mass of Loughrigg. Here, close to a sharp bend in the stream (the Rothay), isFox Ghyll, once the residence of the Rt. Hon. W. E. Forster, M.P. A little nearer Ambleside is Fox How, where Dr. Arnold, the great Rugby master, Uved. After passing through Rydal, the road skirts the northerly margin of — Rydal Water, one of the smallest, but also one of the most attractive of the lakes. It is not, however, seen to the best advantage from the road. Good peeps at the lake and vale may be obtained from Old Corruption [see p. 83) ; and the road along the other side of the lake, under Loughrigg Fell, as indicated on p. 84, does justice to the beauties of this httle mere, of which the traveller on the high-road is hardly aware. About two hundred yards beyond the last house on the Keswick side of Rydal village is a low rock called Words- worth's Seat, the top of which is reached by a few steps. A short distance towards Grasmere, and close to the lake, a neat roadside cottage will attract notice. This is the Nab, where De Quincey resided for some time, ultimately marrying the daughter of old Simpson, the farmer-occupier of the cottage, with whom he lodged. The Nab was subsequently V ■f i r a ii ■> 1 i s f 3. ULLSWATER, GRASMERE & THIRLMERE WARD. LOCK. & CO., Ltd., Warwick House. Salisbury Square, LONDON. Jolui BarlHiiliuiujw A Cti Unn' RYDAL ^ 83 the residence of Hartley Coleridge. Here he died, January 6, 1849. He was interred in the south-east angle of Grasmere churchyard. Wordsworth, then a grey-haired old man, attended the funeral ; and httle more than a year later was liimself laid at rest near his brother-poet. The mountain on our right is 'Nab Scar ; to our left Ues Rydal Water, with Loughrigg beyond, over which appear, in the order named, as we walk towards Grasmere, the rocky summit of Harrison Stickle, the serrated Crinkle Crags, and Pike o' Bhsco. At the head of Rydal Water there is a choice of three roads : the first very rough and steep, winding around the slate- quarry ; the second smoother and rising at an easier angle ; the third, the nearly level and smooth coach road. Dr. Arnold once used these three roads as a political parable ; the first was Old Corruption, the second Moderate Toryism, the third Liberal Reform. However, pedestrians should take Moderate Toryism, in preference to the main road, not only because it avoids the motors, but because it aflo/ds some- thing of a surprise view of Grasmere itself. This httle lake is considered by some the prettiest in Lakeland, and certainly it is charming to look at and charming to look from,^ a beautiful jewel in a beautiful setting. The fell on the western side of the lake is Silver How (formerly the theatre of the Guides, race), with the wild recesses of Easedale running up to the north-west. Farther north Helm Crag [see p. 88), with its fantastic summit, overlooks the main road. The mountain beyond is Steel Fell, and between it and Seat Sandal, which rises opposite, is Dunmail Raise [see p. 87), over which peeps for a moment the conical summit of Great Calva, in Skiddaw Forest. Closer at hand Stone Arthur sends down smooth grass slopes of great steepness. A httle beyond the highest point of this by-road is the Wishing Gate, on the site of the gate of which Wordsworth wrote. Variation i (walk). Turning up to Rydal Mount past the church, a track to the left leads along the foot of Nab Scar. It is a pleasant stroll, and has the advantage of seclusion to which the tourist on the high-road is a stranger. Variation 2 (walk). By Pelter Bridge and Loughrigg Ter- race [see Route 6 p. 84), and so by the western side of Gras- mere. Or the coach road may be rejoined by the bridge over the Rothay between Rydal and Grasmere lakes. The terrace route, however, though somewhat longer, is preferable, the scenery being finer throughout. The first sight of Grasmere and its surroundings from Loughrigg Terrace is entrancing. 1 The " kelds " in the lake — springs which take longer to freeze over thaa "Other water — are a source of danger to bathers and skaters. Si G: d€ of ar SI m th ti fa w R w< w; Vi T] M th is w; al hi St H F( m 9^ OE th fn ot th or W( sh ne w] th CO RYDAL 83 the residence of Hartley Coleridge. Here lie died, January 6, 1849. He was interred in the south-east angle of Grasmere churchyard. Wordsworth, then a grey-haired old man, attended the funeral ; and little more than a year later was himself laid at rest near his brother-poet. The mountain on our right is 'Nab Scar ; to our left hes Rydal Water, with Loughrigg beyond, over which appear, in the order named, as we walk towards Grasmere, the rocky summit of Harrison Stickle, the serrated Crinkle Crags, and Pike o' BHsco. At the head of Rydal Water there is a choice of three roads : the first very rough and steep, winding around the slate- quarry ; the second smoother and rising at an easier angle ; the third, the nearly level and smooth coach road. Dr. Arnold once used these three roads as a political parable ; the first was Old Corruption, the second Moderate Toryism, the third Liberal Reform. However, pedestrians should take Moderate Toryism, in preference to the main road, not only because it avoids the motors, but because it aflo.ds some- thing of a surprise view of Grasmere itself. This little lake is considered by some the prettiest in Lakeland, and certainly it is charming to look at and charming to look from,^ a beautiful jewel in a beautiful setting. The fell on the western side of the lake is Silver How (formerly the theatre of the Guides, race), with the wild recesses of Easedale running up to the north-west. Farther north Helm Crag [see p. 88), with its fantastic summit, overlooks the main road. The mountain beyond is Steel Fell, and between it and Seat Sandal, which rises opposite, is Dunmail Raise [see p. 87), over which peeps for a moment the conical summit of Great Calva, in Skiddaw Forest. Closer at hand Stone Arthur sends down smooth grass slopes of great steepness. A httle beyond the highest point of this by-road is the Wishing Gate, on the site of the gate of which Wordsworth wrote. Variation i (walk). Turning up to Rydal Mount past the church, a track to the left leads along the foot of Nab Scar. It is a pleasant stroll, and has the advantage of seclusion to which the tourist on the high-road is a stranger. Variation 2 (walk). By Pelter Bridge and Loughrigg Ter- race [see Route 6 p. 84), and so by the western side of Gras- mere. Or the coach road may be rejoined by the bridge over the Rothay between Rydal and Grasmere lakes. The terrace route, however, though somewhat longer, is preferable, the scenery being finer throughout. The first sight of Grasmere and its surroundings from Loughrigg Terrace is entrancing. 1 The " kelds " in the lake — springs which take longer to freeze over thaa "Other water — are a source of danger to bathers and skaters. 84 LOUGH RIGG FELL-— GRASM ERE 6. To Loughrigg Fell. The walk round Loughrigg Fell, a rocky, fern-clad hill com- manding extensive views, is one of the finest in the country. Proceed by the archway to the south of the Queen's Hotel,, and follow the footpath across meadows to Miller Bridge. Crossing this, turn to the right and follow the carriage-road northward to Pelter Bridge. The ramble up the valley is very enjoyable, the country, verdant and richly timbered, present- ing the appearance of a nobleman's park. We pass in succes- sion Fox How on the right ; and Fox Ghyll, Loughrigg Holme,, Stepping Stones, Loughrigg Cottage, and Field Foot on the left. Rydal Ha 11, standing in an extensive park, with numerous stately forest-trees, and Rydal Mount (from 1813 until his death the residence of Wordsworth) are prominent objects from several points along the road. The mountains of Great Rigg, Fair- field, and Nab Scar, on the north-east, and Loughrigg Fell on the western side of the valley, present many fine combina- tions. On reaching Pelter Bridge, we leave it on the right, and on arriving at the top of the lane come in view of Rydal Water. Descending by a steep path, we can, if we choose, proceed to Grasmere along the shore of the lake ; but we turn- to the left, along the northern slope of Loughrigg Fell, and make our m ay home by Loughrigg Terrace (overlooking Gras- mere) and Loughrigg Tarn and Clappersgate. The north bank of the Brathay is reached about half a mile east of Skelwith Bridge. Passing through Clappersgate, a pretty village situated at the foot of the fell, about a mile west of Ambleside, and crossing the bridge over the Rothay, we are soon home again. 7. To Windermere and Bowness direct, or by the Kirkstone Pass and Troutbeck. {See these routes from Ambleside as described on pp. 76-7.) GRASMERE. Beink^,— Liverpool and Manchester & Liverpool, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday;. and Friday. Boats.— IS. firs't, 6d. every other hour. Conveyances. — Frequent services to Ambleside and Windermere. Drives from Grasmere, see pp. 93-4- Hotels and Tariffs. — See Introduction. Places of Worship.— Gmswfrf,' Church, on the Ambleside road, by the river,. near the Rothay Hotel; Wesleyan Chapel. Post Onice, in village. The most interesting feature of Grasmere Church is the marble tablet to Wordsworth's memory, the epitaph on which Lakes 17 F. Frilh & Co., iJii.,] llvt^i^itld. GRASMERE CHURCH. WiUntiiw o- Sons, Ltd.,] DOVE COTIAGE, GRASMERE. l8 IDundee. GR ASM ERE 85 was written by the author of the Christian Year. But the churchyard is still more sought out, for here the poet lies at rest, with other members of his family, and at no great distance from Coleridge's son. Hartley. He himself chose the spot. His description of the church will be recalled : — " Not raised in nice proportions was the pile, But large and massy : for duration built ; With pillars crowded, and the roof upheld By naked rafters intricately cross'd, Like leafless underboughs, 'mid some thick grove, All wither'd by the depth of shade above. Admonitory texts inscribed the walls, Each in its ornamental scroll enclosed, Each also crowned with winged heads — a pair Of rudely painted cherubim. The floor Of nave and aisle, in unpretending guise. Was occupied by oaken benches ranged In seemly rows." In this, as in Ambleside Church, an ancient custom is observed in summer. Before the aisles were covered vidth matting and the pews with carpet, rushes were used for keeping the feet from the cold floor. Every summer a gathering of rushes was made for the purpose, and they were borne vnth pleasing ceremony to the church. The necessity for rushes has ceased ; but the " rush-bearing " is still an important annual festival. Garlands are borne by children in procession to the church, and a short service is held, for which a beautiful hymn was written by Owen Lloyd. From the church we pass along the old Rydal road to — Dove Cottage. (Admissioa. — Sixpence. Reductions are made in the case of large parties.) Here Wordsworth resided on his first settlement at Gras- mere in 1799. The house still presents the same appear- ance. Here again we have many associations with the literary giants of the past. At Dove Cottage we find Words- worth and his sister, with De Quincey as a guest ; and from the latter, who himself afterwards hved for many years in the cottage, we have a number of reminiscences of the days spent by Grasmere. The relics within include an entire set of first editions of Wordsworth's poems, presented by Professor Knight ; some MSS. of his poems ; a large number of por- traits of Wordsworth, his family, and of nearly all his friends ; -as well as the furniture of the house as it was in Wordsworth's •day. 86 WALKS ROUND GRASMERE Allan Bank was also a temporary residence of Wordsworth, The Grasmere Sports, the event of the season, take place about the middle of August. Wrestling is perhaps the chief attraction, but in popularity it is closely run by the " Guides' Eace " and by the " Hound Trail," also a favourite Lakeland sport. WALKS ROUND GRASMERE. 1. Round the Lakes. Follow the Ambleside road as far as Pelter Bridge, at the foot of Rydal Water ; then, crossing the Rothay, return by Loughrigg Terrace along the far side of the lakes, rejoining the carriage road from Langdale to Grasmere at Red Bank. If the round of Grasmere only is contemplated, the Ambleside road should be left at the bridge between the two lakes. Total round about six miles. 2. To Easedale Tarn. This is only tw'O miles and a half north-west of Grasmere ; ponies can be taken. Follow the road from the Rothay Hotel northwards, turning neither right nor left until the road forks. On the wall at the point of bifurcation is a tablet directing the pedestrian to Easedale Tarn. From here the road is followed till a gate on the left is reached with a ford beyond. We pass this on a footbridge and take the track by Sour Milk Ghyll to the tarn, 915 feet above sea-level. On the left of the route, soon after we leave the main road, is the Blindtarn Ghyll Farm, the home of the Greens, whose. story is dramatically told by De Quincey. The excursion, though short, is most picturesque and should certainly not be omitted. 3. Grisedale Tarn by Tongue Ghyll Force. Follow the Keswick road for a mile and a half to Tongue Ghyll, and after crossing the bridge turn to the right by a track by the side of the stream. A short distance up is Tongue Ghyll Force, a perfect gem. A little farther on is a plank bridge. We do not cross this, but follow the left-hand track. From this point it is all uphill till the head of the pass comes in sight, when a little more rough going brings Grisedale Tarn into view. We are now on the slopes of Seat Sandal, which rises to the left of and behind us ; Fairfield is on our right ; and on the far side of the tarn is Dollywaggon Pike, with the Helvellyn track zigzagging steeply up it. It is worth while walking to the far side of the tarn and BROTHERS' PARTING— DUNMAIL RAISE 87 looking down the pass in the direction of Patterdale. About a hundred yards from Grisedale Tarn, at this head of Grisedale^ is The Brothers' Parting, so called because here, in 1805,. the poet bade a last farewell to his brother, John Wordsworth^ Commander of the East Indiaman Earl of Abergavenny, who was shortly afterwards drowned in the wreck of that ship off Southampton. Wordsworth commemorated the event in some verses, two of which are cut in the rock face : — " Here did we stop ; and here looked round While each into himself descends For that last thought of parting friends, That is not to be found." " Brother and Friend — if words of mine Have power to make thy virtues known, Here let a monumental stone Stand — sacred as a shrine." The inscription is now weather-worn and almost illegible but thanks to Joe Bowman, late of the Ullswater foxhounds, a plate, erected by private subscription, on the top of the rock shelf, serves to direct the attention of the passer-by to the inscription. Returning, an unexpected view of the fells beyond Derwent- water is obtained between Seat Sandal and Dollywaggon. 4. Round Thirlmere. (Walk or Drive.) Taking the Keswick coach we begin, as soon as we leave the village, the steep ascent of Dunmail Raise, which looks down upon Grasmere. The summit, 783 feet above sea-level, is between Steel Fell on the west and Seat Sandal on the east. The tourist will not fail to learn the legend concerning Dunmail, king of Cumberland, who was defeated by the English king a.d. 945, and had his eyes put out. The boundary of the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland on the summit of the pass, a short distance beyond the stream, is marked by the cairn " heaped over brave King Dunmail's bones." Legend declares that at this spot the wandering king fell in with a ghost, whose " appearance " was much in her favour. He entered into a bargain with her, pledging his word, and she bestowed upon him a ring, taking, as a guarantee of good faith, the king's neck ornament. The king unfortunately, on a subsequent occasion, suffered himself to make proposals to a beautiful damsel whom he had rescued ; and as a result of his faithlessness was defeated by the aid of the fairy's wronged relatives. He was surprised by the Saxons near the castle or fort of Helvellyn, and fell fighting. A cairn marks the spot, and it is said that on snowy nights the phantom of the king may be seen pursuing a spectral maiden, but when he has almost grasped her she vanishes in a snow wreath. 88 GRASMERE WALKS— CONISTON From the brow of the pass there is a pleasing view of hill- tops and vales. A hill behind which specially attracts atten- tion is Helm Crag (1,299 ft.), eleven hundred feet higher than Grasmere lake. The rugged rocks of the summit assume a variety of shapes, according to the position from which they are viewed. The most famihar of these is the Lion Couchant, which in due course becomes the Old Woman at the Organ. This crag is generally pointed out as the Lion and the Lamb — not the same rock at all. We now cross the boundary into Cumberland, a mile and a quarter from the Nag's Head Hotel, at Wythburn. For the round of Thirlmere see Keswick section, p. 123. The length of the round is about fifteen miles. 5. To Ambleside by Loughrigg Tarn. Follow the road along the western side of the Lake and over Red Bank, and so by Loughrigg Tarn (308 feet above sea level) and Clappersgate {see p. 84). 6. To Ambleside by the Brathay Valley. On the western side of the Lake, almost opposite the Prince of Wales Hotel, a track leads over the low elevation to the right by Hunting Stile, rejoining the coach road from Lang- dale to Grasmere at High Close. Elterwater village lies a Uttle below. For the Brathay valley, see p. 8 1 . 7. To Dungeon Ghyll. Dungeon Ghyll [see^. 97) may be reached from Grasmere by various routes. The simplest is by Allan Bank to the summit of Yew Crag (1,345 ft.) — be careful not to walk up Silver How, to the left, by mistake — descending to the coach road at Pye Howe. The return journey is most easily made by High Close and Hunting Stile. CONISTON. Approach. — By Furness Railway via Foxfield Junction. Banks. — Liverpool aud Manchester & Liverpool (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday.) Boats. — IS. per hour, 5s. per day, 12s. 6d. to 15s. per week. Drives from Coniston, see p. 94. Hotels and TariHs.— S^e Introduction. Places of Worship. — Parish Church, Roman Catholic Church, Baptist and Wei- leyan Chapels. Railway Station, just above village. Steamers. — Pier near Waterhead Hotel. Steam gondola. Fares, is. single, IS. 6d. return. Lc^dy of the Lake : fares, ist, is. single, is. 6d. return ; 2nd, gd. single, is. return. The village lies near the western shore of Coniston Lake, at the northern end. It is a pleasant place for a summer CONISTON 89 .sojourn, and a very fair centre for excursions. The steamers make frequent trips up and down the Lake. The Ruskin Museum, opened in 1901, is well worth visiting, as is also the Norse Chalet, with its exhibition of pictures. The Church, old, plain, and unpretentious, contains in its peaceful " God's acre " the Grave of John Ruskin (d. January 20, 1900). At the head of the grave stands a tall cross of the type lately revived from models of the period before the Norman Conquest. The monument is of grey-green slate stone, quarried from the neighbouring vale of Tilberthwaite. The sculpture is illustrative of Ruskin's life-work. The church was consecrated in 1586, prior to which date the district was in the parish of Ulverston, in the burial-ground of which the inhabitants buried their dead, conveying them thither on sledges. Jenkin-sike (Jenkin's Brook), the name of a stream in the neighbourhood, recalls an occasion on which a funeral party slipped accidentally in the brook, and did not discover the absence of the principal, the defunct Jenkin, from the sledge-hearse until they had proceeded some distance. Coniston Lake, sometimes known as Thurston Mere, is five and a quarter miles long and half a mile wide. Its banks are beautifully wooded, and on its surface are tw^o pretty islets, Peel Island and Fir Island. The former is locally known as the Gridiron, from its shape ; the latter is named from the Scotch firs upon it, and is sometimes called Knott's Island, after a proprietor of that name. In sailing up the Lake, we obtain fine views of the Old Man and other mountains of the chain, the crags around Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, Helvellyn, Fairfield and Red Screes. But for thousands of tourists the most absorbing interest centres in Brantwood, towards the northern end of the Lake, for over a quarter of a century the home of John Ruskin. The great artist, art-critic and poet died here on January 20, igoo. Dean Bradley offered a tomb in Westminster Abbey, but, in deference to his own wish, Ruskin was buried in the quiet churchyard of Coniston, W. J. Linton, the famous engraver, who died in America in Decem- ber, 1897, owned Brantwood for many years, and sold it in 1871 to Mr. Ruskin. Other celebrities who made Coniston a place of residence were Gerald Massey and the Rev. C. go WALKS ROUND CONISTON Hudson, who lost his hf e in the great disaster on the first ascent of the Matterhorn. Besides its hterary associations and great natural beautieSj, Coniston has antiquarian attractions. More than one interest- ing archaeological discovery has been made in recent years^ including several " bloomeries," or iron-smelting furnaces. WALKS ROUND CONISTON. I. To Tarn Hows. (Walk or Drive.) We follow the Hawkshead road past the Waterhead Hotel and take the second turning to the left, up a wooded lane^ with charming retrospective views of Coniston Lake. When the road becom.es unenclosed, the prospect opens finely to the left over Yewdale. Pedestrians are recommended to walk up the bracken-covered slope to the right, from which the Coniston district is well seen. A short distance farther we come somewhat suddenly on the little lakelet of Tarn Hows> as pretty a picture as ever delighted the eye. Tarn Hows is a remarkable instance of what may be called " lake-gardening,'* for it was a not very attractive medley of small pools till the artistic enterprise of the owner converted them into their present form. The return should be made by descending the picturesque Tom Ghyll — the opening of which enframes a striking sil- houette of the distant Langdale Pikes — and by the road to Ambleside via Oxenfell, which is reached close to Yew Tree House. The whole round is not much over five miles. With this excursion may be conveniently combined a visit to Tilberthwaite. 2. To Tilberthwaite. Take the first road to the right after crossing Yewdale Beck on the way back to Coniston. Should the Tilberthwaite walk be taken separately, however, the Ambleside via Oxenfell road must be followed from the Crown Hotel, leaving the Waterhead Hotel away on the right ; and the first turn — by Yewdale Beck — leads us in about twenty minutes to the en- trance to the Glen, just short of a group of cottages. The Ghyll itself is a gorge, which is crossed and recrossed by a series of ladders and planks. The return journey is made by a rough track through a wood, which rejoins the road imme- diately beyond the cottages. The Lake District Association have much improved the artificial methods of descending the Ghyll, so that admiration of scenery is not quahfied by any GRIZEDALE—DUDDON VALLEY 91 ■sense-Qf insecurity. Towards the end of the descent through the wood fine views are obtained of Fairfield and the neigh- bouring fells. 3. To Grizedale. Take the steamer or gondola to Lake Bank. Thence walk down the River Crake till you cross it at Low Nibthwaite. Returning by the opposite bank, strike up the low fells to the right, keeping almost parallel with the lake side for about two miles. Here a track to the right leads to Satterthwaite {Inn). From Satterthwaite we proceed northward up Grize- dale Glen, avoiding all temptation to turn to the right till the head of the dale is reached. From this point a ramble over Coniston Moor in a westerly direction lands us somewhere near the head of Coniston Lake. The total distance is about fifteen miles, and is well worth the doing. Grizedale is very pretty, and has the advantage of being almost unknown.. Fine views on the return descent to Coniston. 4. The Duddon Valley. Take train to Broughton-in-Furness. Thence the route lies UD the Valley of the Duddon, a river which rises on Wry- nose, \lose to the "Three-Shire Stones." The river was rendered classic by Wordsworth, who made it the subject of no fewer than thirty-four sonnets. It runs thiough wild and picturesque country ; and the scenery will amply recompense those who wander along its course. At Duddon Bridge we turn sharply to the right, along a good but somewhat steep road, on the east bank of the stream. Frith Hall, a farm- house crowning a lofty height on the left, was built, so tra- dition affirms, by one of the lords of Millom, as a station whence to watch the deer-hunting in his park of Ulpha, on the Cumberland bank of the river. It was subsequently an inn, at which, in 1730, seventeen loving couples were united in holy matrimony by the parish minister. About four miles farther is Ulpha {Travellers' Rest Inn). In another two miles the river is again crossed in order to reach — Seathwaite,^ a village enclosed in a noble amphitheatre of hills. Passing, 1 It will be to the advantage of the tourist to remember that in the Lake District many places far apart bear identical names. There are, for instance, two well-known Seathwaites (this in Dunnerdale ; the other in Borrowdale), several Mosedales, about half a score Sour Milk Ghylls, and almost countless. Raven Crags. 92 SEATHWAITE the junction of Seathwaite Beck with the Duddon, and turn- ing an elbow of the road, we reach the parsonage and the simple httle Church, occupying the site of the old chapel which was for years the scene of the ministrations of " Wonder- ful Walker," " Whose good works formed an endless retinue : A pastor such as Chaucer's verse portrays, Such as the heaven-taught skill of Herbert drew, And tender Goldsmith crowned with deathless praise." The Rev. Robert Walker has, through the well-known verses of Wordsworth, attained almost world-wide celebrity. He was curate of Seathwaite for sixty-seven years. The cure was originally valued at £5, and never exceeded £50 per annum. He married a lady possessed of £40 ; and having educated his children and exercised what must be regarded as a bountiful hospitality and charity to all, he closed his long-suffering and self-denying life, at the age of ninety-two, leaving a fortune of £2,000, the result of his savings. His wife died at the same age as he, and in the same year. He survived her only six months. His grave is within a few yards of a yew-tree more than two himdred years old, around which he was in the habit of assembling his flock, and ministering to their bodily wants between the services on Sundays. The head- stone bears the inscription : "In memory of the Rev. Robert Walker, who died the 25th of June, 1802, in the 93rd year of his age, and the 67th of his curacy at Seathwaite." The date of ^erec- tion of the original chapel is unknown, but " Wonderful Walker " has preserved the following tradition concerning its origin : " The inhabitants were conveying a body to Kirkby for inteiment, in the depth of winter, when the snow began to fall. By the time they had reached a part of the hill above Newfield they could go no farther with the body, and it was left on the common for a few days. After this they sent a petition to the Earl of Derby (lord of the manor), praying that he would erect them a place of worship ; " and he seems to have complied with the request. The present church is very different from the " lowly house of prayer " (school, wool-store, and " spinning-mill " com- bined), and it should be put on record that Mr. Ruskin and others tried their best to have the old building preserved as a memorial. A little beyond Seathwaite Church the road bends to the right over by Walna Scar to Coniston. The total distance is about thirteen miles. This route may be taken the reverse way, returning from Broughton by train. The alternative is to be recommended on account of the magnificent surprise view of Scafell and the western fells on reaching the top of Walna Scar. On the other hand, the walk deteriorates in interest after Ulpha. 19 F. Frith & Co., Ltd.,] [Reigate. BRANT WOOD. C. G. Mason, \ THE RUSKIN MEMORIAL, CONISTON. [A mbleside. DRIVES {WINDERMERE SECTION) 93: DRIVES FROM WINDERMERE, AMBLESIDE, GRASMERE AND CONISTON. Owing to the excellent services of vehicles and boats between Windermere and Bowness and Ambleside, and to- the service of vehicles between Ambleside and Grasmere, these centres may be looked on as interchangeable. The fares for excursions by the public coaches are very moderate. Private excursions are made by arrangement. The charges generally work out at 15. 3^. a mile for a single horse, is. gd. a mile for a pair. This fare covers the whole route and the driver's fee. Brakes are readily made up for parties at moderate charges. Following is a summary of some of the chief coach and carriage excursions from each centre. From Bowness and Windermere. {See also Ambleside and Grasmere.) 1. By the Ferry, round the foot of the Lake by Newby Bridge, and back. This route may be reversed. 2. Ferry, Hawkshead, Coniston, Oxenfell, Skelwith, Waterhead and back. 3. Patterdale by Troutbeck and the Kirkstone Pass and back. From Ambleside. 1. Keswick by Rydal, Grasmere, Thirlmere and back. 2. Round of the Langdales by Skelwith, Colwith, Blea Tarn,. Dungeon Ghyll, Elterwater, Grasmere and back. 3. Coniston by coach, returning by Oxenfell. Tarn Hows should be visited on this expedition. 4. Coniston (by coach), Furness Abbey (rail), Lake Side (rail). Waterhead (steamer). Ample time is allowed at Coniston and Furness. The steamboat trip takes in the entire Lake. 5. To Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, returning by Troutbeck and Low Wood. Time is allowed diuring the steamboat season at Patterdale for the steamer trip down and up Ullswater. 6. For Hawkshead, see p. 95. From Grasmere. The coaches running between Keswick and Windermere pass through Grasmere, and Ambleside can be quickly reached by motor or coach. Other excursions by coach are: — 1. Grasmere and Rydal and home by Clappersgate, Loughrigg Tarn and Red Bank (10 miles). 2. The round of the Langdales, including Skelwith and Colwith Falls and Dungeon Ghyll. 94 DRIVES {WINDERMERE SECTION) 3. Coniston ; by Ambleside (12 miles), by Tarn Hows (12 miles), by Yewdale (12 miles), by Dungeon Ghyll and Tilberthwaite (18 miles), returning by any of these routes. 4. Kirkstone Pass, returning by Troutbeck Valley and Bowness (20 miles). 5. Ullswater by the Kirkstone Pass, returning direct (15 miles), or by Troutbeck Valley and Low Wood (19 miles). From Coniston. 1. By the west side of Coniston Lake, through Torver, Blawith and Lowick, returning by eastern side of Lake — 12 miles. 2. By Broughton Mills to the Vale of the Duddon (visit Sea- thwaite Church), Wallowbarrow Crag, Birks Bridge, Cockley Beck, the source of the Duddon, and return by Three Shire Stone over Wrynose by Fell Foot and Little Langdale — 32 miles. 3. To Yewdale, Tilberthwaite, Little Langdale, Colwith, Oxen- fell — 14 miles. 4. To Yewdale, Tilberthwaite, Langdale, Blea Tarn, Dungeon Ghyll, Skelwith Force, Oxenfell — 20 miles. 5. High Cross, Borwick Ground Fell and back by Oxenfell — 10 miles. 6. Broughton, Duddon Bridge, back by Lowick and east side of Coniston Lake — 27 miles. 7. Hawkshead, High Wray, Wray Castle, and back by Barn- gates — 15 miles. 8. Yew Tree, Tarn Hows, the Tarns, and back by High Cross— 6 miles. 9. Hawkshead, Esthwaite Water and back — 13 miles. 10. Over Wrynose, Hardknott, through Eskdale to Wastwater — ■ 32 miles. 11. Ambleside — 9 miles. 12. Grasmere — 12 miles. 13. Hawkshead, Ferry, Belle Grange, Wray Castle and badi by Bamgates and High Cross — 20 miles. 14. Fumess Abbey and back by train — 24 miles. Many of the routes outlined above are wholly or partly ■described elsewhere [see Index). We will content ourselves in the following pages with describing the five excursions we most recommend, viz : — 1. Windermere, Ambleside, Rydal, Grasmere, Dunmaii Raise, Thirlmere, Keswick. 2. Windermere, The Ferry, Hawkshead, Coniston, Skelwith, Waterhead and back. 3. The round of the Langdales. 4. Furness Abbey from Ambleside, by Coniston, returning by steamer from Lake Side. 5. Patterdale by ICirkstone Pass and back. ESrnWAITE WATER— HAWKSHEAD 95 1. WINDERMERE AND KESWICK. ff'ares — Coach Fares. Single. Rettcrn. s. d. s. d. To Ambleside . . . I 6 2 6 „ Grasmers . 2 6 3 9 „ Wythbura . . 4 6 6 9 ,, Thirlspot . 5 6 8 3 „ Keswick . . 6 6 9 9 „ Bovvness — 8 6 Motor Fares Single. Rdurn. s. d. s, d~ Bowness to Keswick . 6 g lo o Windermere to Keswick 6 6 96 Ambleside to Keswick 50 76 For Windermere to Ambleside see p, 76 ; Ambleside to Grasmere, p. 81 ; Grasmere to Dunmail Raise, p. 87 ; Thirlmere to Keswick, p 123. 2. WINDERMERE— THE FERRY— HAWKSHEAD— CONISTON— SKELWITH— WATERHEAD, AND BACK. {Fares to Coniston 45., return 6s.) From the Ferry a steep ascent takes us through the two hamlets ol Sawrey, amid comparatively uninteresting scenery, until we reach — Esthwaite Water, a prettily situated Httle lake, about two miles long and half a mile broad at its widest part. In a small round pond at its head, known as the Priest's Pot, was once a iioating island. In course of time, however, the roots of the trees growing upon it came in contact with the west bank and penetrated the soil, thus securely mooring the island in its present position. Miss Martineau says that by some people the strange name is accounted for by " a tradition that a priest was drowned there ; and by others by a supposition of its holding about as much as a thirsty priest would like to drink, if the liquor were sufficiently good." Esthwaite Water is connected with Windermere by the Cunssy Beck. It is full of trout, perch, and pike ; but no char are to be found in it, though the larger lake, so close, is famous for those fish. During the drive along the side of Esthwaite Water fine views open ahead of the Coniston Fells, the Bowfell range, and the Langdale Pikes. Near the head of the Lake is — Hawkshead, a market town, the most interesting feature of which is the Grammar School, concerning which William Wordsworth 96 HAWKSHEAD wrote his first poems. It was founded in 1585 by Sandys^ Archbishop of York, and the Queen's charter is still preserved. Those who are permitted to peruse the rules of the school, as laid down by the Archbishop, will be amused by some of the clauses for the regulation of the master's morals. On one of the forms is the poet's name, said to have been cut by himself when a boy at school. We can picture the lad with his com- panions after school hours — " When summer came Our pastime was on bright half-holidays To sweep along the plain of Windermere With rival oars." Hawkshead's industrial importance vanished when machin- ery superseded the use of homespun wool. An interesting afternoon may be spent rambling about the village, some of the buildings, or portions of them, dating back 600 or 700 years. The Church (St. Michael's) is well worth visiting if there is time. On the cliff at the foot of the hill towards Skelwith is an old building, formerly a Court House of the monks of Furness Abbey. It is an oblong structure, and was approached by steps. Underneath is a fine arched Earl}'- English gateway^ the keystone of which is a beautifully carved boss. Over this is a niche intended for an image. Looking south is a fine specimen of a muUioned window, filled with tracery^ The building is in a good state of preservation. Hawkshead Hall, an old farmhouse in the rear of the Court House, possesses walls nine feet thick. The coach halts for a while at Hawkshead, and ever^^one is recommended to stretch limbs and spare the horses by taking the field-track from the village to the Baptist Chapel, where the coach can be rejoined. The prospect from the brow of the hill over towards Fairfield is superb. From the Chapel onwards the Coniston range is the principal attraction till the road descends steeply a richly wooded slope, affording^ occasional ghmpses of lake and mountain. This woodland passage is an experience for anyone whose knowledge of Lakeland drives has hitherto been confined to the better- known rounds. After a few hours pleasantly spent at Coniston, during which Tarn Hows {see p. 90) should be visited, the coach being rejoined at the foot oi Tom Ghyll, the journey is resumed Lakes. 21 22 YEWDALE—THE LAN GD ALES 97 in the afternoon, the first portion being along Yewdale. Near the bridge by which the coach crosses the primitive Bannockstone Bridge spans the stream which runs down the dale. This curious relic of olden times is formed of two flat stones laid upon piers of substantial masonry. A little below a large boulder lies in the bed of the beck ; and on this is the impress of a huge heel, too large to be that of a human being. To this mark, though it is not cloven, the dalesmen have given the name of the " Devil's footmark." Attached to it is a tradition of the circumvention by a pious monk of the designs of " Old Scratch " against the spiritual well-being of an old woman (of course, a witch) resident in the neighbourhood. Yewdale is bounded on the west by beautifully wooded and precipitous crags, whilst on the other side are slopes of luxuriant foliage. The particular yew, a venerable speci- men twenty-seven feet in circumference, which gave its name to the dell, was blown down in a violent storm on December 22, 1894. About a mile and a half from Coniston we pass Tilberthwaite Glen, on the left. Soon after this the prospect opens to the left, affording occasional glimpses of the Langdale Pikes. (For Skelwith, see p. 81.) 3. THE ROUND OF THE LANGDALES FROM AMBLESIDE. [Fare, 4s.) The route lies through Clappersgate, by Skelwith Bridge and Col with Bridge, the latter consisting of a single graceful arch (for Skelwith and Colwith Forces see p. 81), to Little Langdale, a valley separated from Great Langdale by Ling- moor Fell (1,410 ft.). Before reaching Little Langdale Tarn (340 feet), we pass Slater's Bridge, rude but highly picturesque, spanning the Brathay, with which we part company near Fell Foot, our road turning to the north. Passing Blea Tarn (700 feet) and the famous cottage of the " Solitary," we soon reach the highest point of the road, some seven hundred feet above the sea. The Langdale Pikes, Harrison Stickle (2,401 ft.), Pike 0* Stickle (2,323 ft.) with the grand precipice of Pavey Ark, rise magnifi- cently — this epithet is not exaggerated — before us. From either of the hotels there is plenty of time to visit Dungeon Ghyll. This English Lakes {g) c,8 FURNESS ABBEY remarkable little ravine suffers from the disadvantage of being over-visited and over-written. If, however, one can disso- ciate oneself from companions who will quote Wordsworth, Coleridge, and even Virgil, in season and out of season, a moderate appreciation of the ghyll is possible. A stroll through the wood by Mill Beck should be taken if time allows. On leaving the Pikes, White Ghyll, noteworthy for the tragedy of the Greens {see p. 86), is crossed. We drive on down Great Langdale as far as the Chapel, passing Thrang Slate Quarry, catching a glimpse of Elterwater Lake, and being " held up " by art needlework in Elterwater village. Following the road, we descend Red Bank, a steep hill (bad for cycHng), and skirting the west shore of Grasmere Lake, soon reach the main road from Keswick to Windermere, along which we return to Ambleside. 4. TO FURNESS ABBEY BY CONISTON (from Ambleside by Barn Gates). Coach to Coniston — Rail to Furness Abbey — Rail to Lake Side — Steamer up Lake to Windermere or Ambleside. This is a combined coach and rail journey of considerable interest. The early part of the route is through quiet sur- roundings of rare beauty, with fine views of the distant fells, the outlook from the ground in front of the Barn Gates Inn in the direction of Fairfield and 111 Bell being magnificent. Still travelling through pretty wooded scenery, with the Lancashire Fells (the Old Man, etc.) forming an imposing backgound, we reach Coniston, the chief interests of which have already been described on pp. 88-9. From Coniston Station a railway journey via Foxfield Junction brings us to the station for Furness Abbey. The return to Windermere or Ambleside should be made by train to Lake Side and then by steamer up the Lake. FURNESS ABBEY. Few ruins are more imposing in their proportions, more charming in their situation, or more affecting in their decay, than the remains of the once noble Abbey of St. Mary of Furness. The Abbey was founded in 1 127 by Stephen, Earl of More- ton and Bologne, afterwards King of England. The monks, of the Benedictine order, were a filiation from the Savigny, FURNESS ABBEY 99 in Normandy, which, had been founded about fifteen years before that of Furness, and fourteen years after the estabhsh- ment of the Cistercian order. A few years later the Savigny monasteries adopted the Cistercian rule, and Furness, some- what reluctantly, followed suit. The abbot exercised vice-regal power, had the assize of bread and ale throughout the district, Aldingham and Ulver- ston excepted, the appointment of chief constable for the hberty, free chase through all the district, and wrecks of sea on the coast, except in Aldingham. For the maintenance of his power and prerogatives, as well as for the defence of the coast and castle of Piel, he kept up a numerous retinue of servants and armed followers. The abbots of Furness were lords in Parliament, but owing to the isolated situation of the abbey, the dangerous nature of the roads, and the distance from the metropolis, they do not appear to have sat in the great council of the kingdom, although several times summoned. The privileges and estates of the abbey were confirmed by twelve successive kings. So large were the possessions of this establishment, in this and [other countries, and to such an extent did its opulence augment, that it was surpa::>sed by no religious house in the kingdom, except Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire. From a survey taken in the reign of Henry VIII, two years before the final surrender of the abbey, it appears that the revenue reached the value of £76^ 6s. lod., equal to ;^5,ooo a year at the present day. In course of time the property of Holker and Furness Abbey •descended to the Cavendish family, who take great interest in the preservation of the beautiful ruins. Close to the station is the Gateway Chapel, forty-eight feet long by twenty wide. The two Gothic arches marking the vcntrance to the Dalton road were built by the late Lord George Cavendish. Near this place were the porter's lodge and the gateway. Over the chapel doorway is a niche, with trefoil head, for a statue. Following the road past the hotel the visitor comes to a turnstile in full view of the church. The footpath through the grounds of the hotel leads directly to it. The semicircular ■doorway which forms the principal entrance opens into the north transept. The Church, built, as usual, in the form of a cross, possessed various sub- •divisions, and from the portions still visible an accurate idea of its proportions and limits can be gained. The Western Tower, or Belfry, is of later date than the rest. loo FURNESS ABBEY belonging apparently to the latter part of the fourteenth or the early part of the fifteenth century, when the Perpendicular style was taking the place of the Decorated. The walls, eleven feet thick, are strengthened with six-staged but- tresses. Inside, the tower measures twenty-four feet by nineteen. The splendid Perpendicular west window, with splays de- corated with the leaf -like ornament of that period, was thirty- five feet high and eleven and a half wide. The staircase in the wall is in a good state of preservation, and the view from the top well repays the ascent. The Transept, dividing the chancel from the nave, measures a hundred and twenty-nine feet by twenty-eight, the walls composing it being from four to six feet thick, and of their original height. The chapels were those of the Lancasters, barons of Kendal, who were great benefactors to the abbey. In the North Transept was a window, thirty feet high and seventeen and a half wide, and in the south wall another^ seventeen and a half feet by twelve feet, both showing the substitution of the Perpendicular style for that preceding it. Over the centre was the lantern tower, supported by four noble arches. The eastern of these remains ; the height from the floor to the under side of the apex is fifty-two and a half feet. The Chancel was lighted by four lofty windows, in addition to the magnificent east window, which, when perfect, was forty-seven feet in height and twenty-three and a half in breadth. The external mouldings of the great chancel window are supported on each side by crowned heads, supposed to repre- sent Stephen, the founder, and Maud, his wife. In the south wall of the chancel are the Sedilia, executed in the most exquisite Decorated style. The Conventual Buildings. Attention is at once arrested by three richly-moulded semi- circular arches, with dog-toothed moulding. The middle archway forms an open porch, with groined and vaulted roof, the sides having been originally ornamented with marble columns supporting an arcade of six trefoil-headed niches. This archway forms the entrance to the Chapter House, a four- sided room, sixty feet and a half b}^ forty-five feet and a half. The vaulted roof, long fallen in, was twenty-four feet in height, being supported by two rows of slender fluted columns. More decoration appears to have been lavished on this apartment and the chancel than on any other part of the edifice. Lakes. 23 G. P. Abraham,] [Keswicf WINDOWS OF CHAPTKR HOUSE, FURNESS ABBEY. /'■. Fritk & Co., Ltd.,] CLOISTERS, FURNESS ABBEY. [Re 2} FURNESS ABBEY loi Returning to the cloister-court, we enter, by two less ela- borate arches, the Refectory, which measures two hundred feet in length by thirty-one feet in breadth. It had a vaulted roof, groined from the corbels, still visible, to the heavy eight- sided columns, whose bases remain on the floor. Adjoining are the Cloisters. South of the cloister-court was the Fratry, or common eating-hall, the refectory being used only on particular days, owing to an alteration which took place throughout the order, changing their meagre diet to one more liberal. West of this was a Noviciate, and near to the latter a Porter's Lodge. The foundations of all these buildings have lately been uncovered. Beyond the Refectory, somewhat to the south-east, is a curious building of mixed architecture which appears to have been the Guest Hall, with chapel and domestic offices and sleeping apartments attached. The vestibule has several en- trances, with staircases in the wall leading to the rooms above. With the adjoining chapel it is the only portion of the con- ventual buildings with roof entire, and affords a good example of the groined vaulting of the period. The chapel is now protected by an iron grating and serves as a repository for relics found among the ruins, many curious gargoyles, corbels, mouldings, pieces of piping, and other interesting remains being here collected. From the remains of the secular buildings a footpath leads to [an eminence from which an excellent bird's-eye view is obtained of the abbey and its domain. In 1896-7 extensive excavations were carried out by Mr. St. John Hope, the ecclesiastical antiquary, assisted by Chan- cellor Ferguson of the Cumberland and Westmorland Anti- quarian and Archaeological Society. In the course of the excavations a papal bulla, or leaden seal, was discovered, dating from the thirteenth century. The seal had been attached to one of the five Bulls sent to the Cistercian estab- lishment at Furness in the time of Pope Innocent IV. (1243- 1254), while William de Middleton was abbot. Within the grounds is the excellent Furness Abbey Hotel, the property of the Furness Railway Co. It occupies the site of the Manor House, built out of the debris of the Abbot's Lodge by Thomas Preston, who purchased the property from the Crown after the Dissolution. In the Abbots' Room is shown a famous Italian bas-relief originally in the Abbey. Though Barrow is hardly in the Lake District, some visitors like, while at Furness Abbey, to stay a night at the hotel, and to devote a few hours to seeing something of — I02 BA RRO W-IN-FURNESS Barrow-in-Furness. (Hotels. — See Introduction.) Barrow is, like Middlesbrough on the Yorkshire coast, a town of modern growth, which since the opening of the Furness Railway has increased in a most extraordinary manner. The immense blast furnaces and the Bessemer steel-works are the largest of thei- kind in Britain. Messrs. Vickers' shipbuild- ing and armament works employ thousands of hands. Timber yards, iron shipbuilding yards, steam saw-mills, corn-mills, and larger works for the manufacture of jute, wire, castings, engines and other machinery, ropes, etc.> combine to make the town an important industrial and commercial centre. Con- siderable interest attaches to George Romney*s Early Home, where he lived from 1742 to 1755. The room over the work- shop, having been fitted up by the Furness Railway Co. as a Museum, was opened to the public in 1909. It contains a number of engravings and photographs associated with the life of the artist. The Docks, the property of the railway company, occupy nearly the whole of Barrow Island. There are four principal docks, the Devonshire, Buccleuch, Ramsden and Cavendish (timber), comprising a water space of 299 acres. Regular passenger steamers start from the docks for Behast and the North of Ireland. The roadstead is one of the safest in the kingdom, and the water at the pier-head is deep enough for steamers 'to he alongside at all states of the tide. The harbour is protected by Walney Island (included in the borough of Barrow), a flat sandbank, about ten miles in length and one broad, which acts as a natural breakwater ; the roar of the surf on Walney Bank, the western side of the island, may be heard for miles. An enormous ridge of pebbles at the southern extremity of the island is believed to have given rise to the name (literally, "walled island"). There are two villages on the island, Biggar and North Scale. Between them is Vickerstown, a colony of houses built by Messrs. Vickers for their workmen. A bridge constructed by the Barrow Corporation in 1908 affords communication between Barrow and Walney Island. Several smaller islands cluster round Walney, the chief being Piel Island, celebrated as the landing-place, in the reign of Henry VII, 'of Lambert Simnel, who personated the young prince murdered in the tower by Richard III. Upon it is a gloomy ruin, variously known as the Pile of Fouldrey and Piel Castle. It is now a mere shell, and part of the hill on •which it was raised has been washed away by the tide. KIRKSTONE PASS— BROTHERS' WATER 103 5. PATTERDALE BY THE KIRKSTONE PASS AND BACK. (Fares : from W indermere and Bowness 6s. 6d., Return 8s. 6d. ; from Patterdale 35. 6d., Return 55.) The distance from Ambleside to Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass is ten miles ; from Windermere a very long fourteen (for route from Windermere by Troutbeck, see p. yy). The coach leaves about ten daily, and from Ambleside almost immediately begins the ascent of — Kirkstone Pass, the steepness of which certainly justifies the local rh5Tne •* He surely is an arrant ass Who pays to drive up Kirkstone Pass : He'll find, in spite of all their talking, He's got to walk, and pay for walking," to ease the* horses. The pass is between Red Screes and Caudale Moor. About two hundred yards short of the summit is a small pubhc house, appropriately named the Traveller's Rest (1,476 ft. above sea-level), asserted to be the highest licensed house in the kingdom ; though there are several higher: "Tan Hill" in Yorkshire (1,727 ft.), the highest ; the " Cat and Fiddle " at Buxton ; the " Isle of Skye " and " Shaw House," Pennines ; and the " Traveller's Rest " at Flash. On the right is Caudale Moor ; on the left Red Screes descends with striking steepness. There is a marvellous repeating echo at Kirkstone Top. (The driver's yarn about it is too good to spoil by antici- pation.) Descending the other side, we see, on the left, the large detached rock which, according to popular fancy, " gives the savage pass its name." It bears some resemblance to a kirk (church), but the name more likely originated from the fact that the pass was a rallying-point for worship at the time when the North Countree was being dragooned into orthodoxy. The lofty mountains on both sides are covered with fragments of rock, and a little stream runs wildly down the pass, receiving accessions from numerous rivulets. De- scending steeply we come in sight of — Brothers' Water, with the heights of Patterdale in the distance. The lake is I04 THE FELLS {SOUTHERN SECTION) said to owe its name to the fact, or legend, that on two separate occasions two brothers were drowned in it. The road runs along the east side of Brothers' Water, and then turns at right angles across the meadows, where it meets another road from Hartsop Hall at Cowbridge. The romantic Deepdale runs up into the mountains on the left, revealing some fine precipices. Following the Goldrill Beck, we cross Goldrill Bridge to Patterdale and the Ullswater Hotel. Ample time is allowed for a steamer trip up and down the lake. The return journey is made by Troutbeck [see p. 77)^ and to Ambleside by Low Wood [see p. j6). THE FELLS (SOUTHERN SECTION). Windermere is the starting-point for the 111 Bell group. The Red Screes and Fairfield range belong equally to Amble- side and Grasmere. Grasmere has also a claim on Helvellyn and practically the monopoly of the Langdale Pikes ; and Coniston has exclusive possession of the Old Man group. Loughrigg, the long low fell that lies between Windermere and Grasmere Lakes, can be ascended from almost any direction, subject to the law of trespass, and almost any time can be spent in wandering about its summit, I. Ill Bell, Froswick, Thorn thwaite Crag, with Caudale Moor. {See Outline Guide {k), p. 67.) The ascent is best made from the summit of the Garburn Pass, following the ridge line over the Yoke, 111 Bell, and Froswick to Thornthwaite Crag. Steady-headed people may indulge in fine views almost straight down into Kentmere ; Thornthwaite Crag and 111 Bell are the favourite view-points. Windermere is seen almost at its best. Beyond are the Conis- ton Fells, the Old Man conspicuous by his large cairn. Wether- lam descends grandly to Wrynose, and on the other side the wild Crinkle Crags run up to the graceful peak of Bowfell. Beyond are Scafell and Scafell Pike, with Great Gable to the right. The Langdale Pikes are easily recognizable, though it is hard at first to realize that those comparatively insignifi- cant hills are the peaks that present so striking a front towards Langdale. Fairfield and the Helvellyn range block the view to the north. Eastward are the Pennine hills. It is worth while strolling a short distance from the colum- nar cairn on Thornthwaite Crag in the direction of the Nan Bield Pass for the sake of a charming peep of Hayeswater on THE FELLS {SOUTHERN SECTION) 105 the left, and if time permits the walk should certainly be con- tinued to High Street. The return is usually made by dropping down into Trout- beck {see p. 77), in a slanting direction from the depression between Thornthwaite Crag and Froswick. Strong walkers may complete the round by crossing Caudale Moor to the Kirkstone Pass. The descent to Thresthwaite Cove (the col between Thornthwaite Crag and Caudale Moor) is very steep and shaky, and the ascent of Caudale Moor a rough clamber. The top of the Moor is intersected with stone walls, but a way may almost always be found through these without the trouble of scahng them. The views on either hand are very attractive, parts of Ullswater coming into sight on the right very effectively, whilst to the left lies Windermere. The summit of Red Screes is a guide to the right line. From the^brow of Caudale Moor this fine mountain looks its finest. Below on the right are Brothers' Water {see p. 103) and the green valley which leads to Patterdale. Our course is in a slant down the fell side to the head of the Kirkstone Pass. Most walkers will find the complete round a full day's work. The half course, however, can be easily undertaken without excessive hurrying. 2. Wansfell Pike. This is the height to the north-east of Ambleside. There are three routes to the top ; perhaps the best is that which combines with a visit to Stock Ghyll Force {see p. 80). Having viewed the fall, we retrace our steps to the entrance gate, turn to the left, and in about five minutes pass through a gate which ■crosses the road. In a few hundred yards an iron step-stile will be seen, by means of which we gain the pasture on the right. The way to the summit is now easily picked out, pegs marking the route. Wansfell Pike is 1,597 feet above sea- level, and fourteen hundred higher than Ambleside. Perhaps no view of Windermere, with its numerous wood-clad islets, is more charming. " With exultation at our feet, we see Lake, islands, promontories, gleaming bays, An universe of nature's fairest forms, Proudly reveal'd with instantaneous burst, Magnificent, and beautiful, and gay." The fine mountain screen which surrounds the lake form? the background of the view ; the valleys of the Brathay and Rothay may be traced from the sources of those rivers to the spot where they fall, as one stream, into the lake ; and Am- bleside, Rydal, Grasmere, Hawkshead, and many other delectable places may be clearly seen. The mountain pano- io6 THE FELLS {SOUTHERN SECTION) rama is extensive and impressive. The low, rounded fell", away to the west by the sea, is Black Combe ; as we turn to our right we come to the Coniston range, and then Crinkle Crags and Bowfell. Beyond this point the northern fells somewhat interfere with the view, albeit Red Screes, with Hart Crag and Fairfield, form an imposing barrier, and the ridges and valleys descending from them to the south are seen to great advantage. To the east are the High Street and 111 Bell ranges. To return we make our way to Nanny Lane, which leads us from the Hundreds, a subordinate elevation of Wansfell, 1,250 ft. high, to the village of Troutbeck, and then, following the high-road as far as Town End, turn along a branch road in a north-westerly direction. Crossing the Holbeck, we can pause for a time at High Skelgill, gaining a pretty ghmpse of Pull Wyke Bay and its lovely surroundings, and in due time re-enter Ambleside. 3. Red Screes, Dove Crag, Hart Crag^ Fairfield, Great Rigg, Nab Scar. [See Outline Guide (i), p. 66.) For a short, easy, one-peak expedition, the best is to take the Sweden Bridge Walk {see p. 81), continuing past the forlorn bed of a vanished tarn to the col between Red Screes and Little Hart Crag, and then bending to the right for the summit of Red Screes, from which a descent is made by the ridge hne over Snarker Pike to Ambleside. The whole round, however, should be made, about eight hours being allowed. The route generally taken is by Snarker Pike over Red Screes, returning as indicated in the heading by Little Hart Crag, Dove Crag, Hart Crag, Fairfield, Great Rigg and Nab Scar. The view from the summit of Red Screes is splendid. Winder- mere is well seen, and beyond is Morecambe Bay, looking very attractive on a sunny day. The Windermere fells are close at hand. Immediately below is the Kirkstone Pass. To the north-east is the High Street range, Kidsty Pike con- spicuous, with the Pennines beyond, and near at hand the broken fells round Angle Tarn. There is just a peep of Ulls- water to the north-east. Most of the view to the north is shut out by Fairfield and St. Sunday Crag, with Helvellyn beyond. To the east of these is seen a little bit of Saddle- back. Westward the mountain panorama extends from the Coniston Fells by the Bowfell and Scafell ranges and Great Gable to the fells above Derwentwater. As we approach Hart Crag, the ground falls precipitously to the right, in pleasing contrast to the somewhat tame slopes THE FELLS {SOUTHERN SECTION) 107 of the earlier portion of the ridge walk. Hart Crag is rough,, but Fairfield is a smooth grassy level, the most extensive summit, we believe, in the district, and an easy place to get- lost on in a mist. By walking a short way in the direction of Cofa Pike we can look down on Greenhow End, which presents- an imposing appearance. To the north Saddleback has disappeared, but close at hand are Striding Edge and the precipices of Helvellyn. Nab Scar, the last height of the return journey, commands a view singularly rich in lakes : Windermere, with Blelham Tarn, Grasmere with Easedale Tarn beyond, Rydal, Elterwater, Esthwaite, Tarn Hows and^ Coniston, not to mention little Alcock Tarn on the fell itself. 4. Langdale Pikes. {See Outline Guide (A), p. 65.) The ascent from the Dungeon Ghyll Hotels, either by Dun- geon Ghyll or Millbeck, is generally recommended in prefer- ence to other routes. We confess to unorthodoxy, and con- sider the Blea Rigg route at least as good, for though it misses- the fine front aspect of the Pikes from Langdale, compensation is to be found in the extensive views to the right and left. Whatever divergence of opinion there may be on this point there can be no question that it is inadvisable for strangers to the district, who are unaccustomed to mountains, to at- tempt the descent into Langdale by Dungeon Gh^'^ll. Tourists also not infrequently get into trouble in descending between Pavey Ark and Harrison Stickle. All that is necessary is to remember that Stickle Tarn (1,540 It.) comes into sight far below on the left almost at once on commencing the descent (otherwise the chances are the tourist has got astray and is between Harrison Stickle and Gimmer Crag), and that the route lies about midway between Harrison Stickle and Pavey Ark. If stopped by rocks, all that is necessary is to walk towards the middle of the slope. The use of the hands is never re- quired. To hit off the commencement of the route from Harrison Stickle, one should face north and turn down over grass to the right. The Pikes command a fine view, but the walker will be well advised to strike north, leaving Pavey Ark on the right,, over the open grass slopes for a little more than a mile until the summit of High Raise is reached. The mountain pano- rama is magnificent. Starting from the Coniston range (note the peak close to the Old Man ; it is Dow Crags, the expert rock-climbers' paradise), and turning to the right, we come to Crinkle Crags, Bowfell, which seems to tower over the- Langdale Pikes, Scafell and Scafeli Pikes, Great End, Great. io8 THE FELLS [SOUTHERN SECTION) Gable, and Pillar. Glaramara is at our feet, with Honister Crag in profile beyond, and beyond again the Buttermere Fells. Next come Dalehead, with the red bulk of Grassmoor behind it, and the Newlands fells, the graceful peak of Grisedale Pike conspicuous. Then, beyond the gap formed byBassen- thwaite Water, isCriffel, in Dumfriesshire. Next come Skiddaw and Saddleback to the north. On the east is the long Hel- vellyn range, with Fairfield, Red Screes, and 111 Bell, and far away is a flat-topped hill, Ingleborough, in Yorkshire. The open prospect to the south includes Windermere and Morecambe Bay. 5. Helvellyn. [See Outline Guide (i), p. 66, and Ullswater Section, p. 137). An easy ascent is to walk as far as Grisedale Tarn (1,758 ft. ), take the zigzag route up Dollywaggon Pike and along the summit to Helvellyn, descending to Wythburn or the head of Dunmail Raise. Easier still is it to take the coach to Wythburn and ascend from there. 6. Coniston Group. [See Outline Guide (/), p. 68). The Old Man is the easiest mountain of its height to ascend. Unfortunately the whole of the eastern face is disfigure:! by quarries and mines, and, though this is the regular ascent, visitors with an eye for beauty are recommended to take the Walna Scar route and to avoid looking down to the west till they are past the summit cairn and above Low Water (1,786 ft.). The prospect is very extensive, and one of the most pleasing in the district. It is in a sense unique, on account of the sea view it commands. The mountain panorama is also very fine, though not equal to that from High Raise. To the east are the familiar peaks that start with the Helvellyn Dodds and terminate in 111 Bell. Ingleborough, with its flat top, is seen far off, and in the remote distance, more to the south-west, are the mountains of Snowdonia. At one's feet is Coniston Lake, and then come Morecambe Bay, the Duddon Sands, and Black Combe. The little tarn to the west is Devoke Water, 766 leet above sea- level, and farther off is the Isle of Man. Facing us as we turn is the splendid precipice of Dow Crags. Next come the giants of the Scafell and Gable Group, and away to the north Skiddaw and Saddleback form a noble horizon. is < o < O < Q O < a; ^3 25 26 THE NORTHERN, OR KESWICK, SECTION. KESWICK. Access. — From the east bv rail by the Cockermouth, Keswick and Penrith Railway, which connects with the London and North- Western Railway and' the North-Eastern Railway at Penrith ; from the west by the above railway (the junction is Cockermouth), or from the south by the Windermere coach.. Angling. — See p. 38. ^, , Banks. — York City & County, Carlisle & Cumberland, Liverpool. Close early on Wednesdays. Bathing.— The bathing shed is at north end of Lake, west of the road to Friar's Crag. Day, 4^. ; week, is. ; season, 2s. 6d. Boating. — On the Lake, is. per hour, 5s. per day. Boating is also to be had oa. the other lakes in this district at a similar charge. Bowls. — In Fitz Park. Concerts, theatrical entertainments, etc., in Queen of the Lakes Pavilion. Hotels and Tariffs. — See Introduction. Launches. — Electric and steam launches make frequent trips up and down the Lake. Library and Reading Room, St. John Street. Day, 3d. ; week, is. ; month,. 2s. 6d. Models of Lake District can be seen at Abraham's, Lake Road; Fhntoft's Museum, Low Fitz Park ; Maj^son's, Lake Road. Motors. — There are regular services of public motors in summer to Grasmere , Ambleside, Waterhead and W'i.idermere. Also round Bassenthwaite Lake (3s.). Museum, Low Fitz Park, Station Road. Places of Worship.— ParisA Church, St. John's Church, Congregational, Wesleyan, . Primitive Methodist, etc. Post Office, 'Main Street, beyond Queen's Hotel. Branch Office, Station Street. Tennis in Fitz Park. KESWICK is a fairly large and prosperous market town on the banks of the river Greta, close to the northern, shore of Derwentwater, perhaps the most picturesque sheet of water in England. It is the best centre in Cumberland for excursions through Lakeland. The town is very acces- sible, the Cockermouth, Keswick and Penrith Railway con- necting that outlying portion of the London and North- Western system which runs from Cockermouth to White- haven (the terminus of the Furness Railways) with its main line at Penrith, and forming the completing link in the rail- ways by which the Lakes are girdled. In the centre of the main street is the Town Hall, erected in 181 3, the bell of which, brought from the Radcliffes' ances- 109 no ■ KESWICK tral seat that formerly stood on Lord's Island in Derwent- water, bears the date looi and the letters H.D.R.O. The Radcliffes were Earls of Derwentwater, but forfeited their .property in the Rebellion of 1715. The Parish Church, at Crosthwaite, a mile from the town, dedicated to St. Kentigern (the " St. Mungo " of Glasgow), is worth a visit. The prin- cipal attraction is a handsome monument of Southey, erected by subscription, a full-length recumbent figure in white marble, on a base of Caen stone. In the chancel is an interest- ing monument of the Radcliffe family, with a black-letter inscription. The font, very ancient, once had an inscription on each of its eight faces. Only one remains. In the pretty churchyard is Southey' s grave. Adjoining the Church is a very old Grammar School. The Public Library, which contains over three thousand volumes, is situated in John Street, near the church. The School of Art is near the bridge on the Crosthwaite road. At High Hill is the Ruskin Linen Industry and School of Embroidery. Visitors are admitted on payment of a small fee, which is refunded if a purchase is made. Near the western end of the town is the High School for boys and girls, established in 1897. A great annual event in Keswick is the Evangelical Con- vention, which takes place early in July and lasts a week ; it was founded in 1875 by Canon Battersby, for many years vicar of St. John's, Keswick. Casual visitors are warned that prices for board and lodging rule high during the Con- vention and that all the available accommodation is generally bespoken. Among the most attractive features of Keswick are the ■fligh and Low Fitz Parks, on the north bank of the Greta. The town is indebted for these charming recreation grounds (cricket, football, tennis, bowls, etc.) to the generosity of the Hewetson family and the energy of Mr. H. I. Jenkinson, of guide-book iame. The lodge at the gate of the Low Park has been converted into a Museum, containing Flintoft's model of the Lake District and, among other objects of interest, many original manuscripts, including the original of John Peel. Greta Hall, in which Coleridge resided before Southey, stands on a low hill at the northern extremity of the town, a few hundred yards to the right of the bridge that^crosses DERWENTWATER, SCAFELL AND DISTRICT WAHD. LOCK, I CO.. LTD . Warwick House. Salisbuiy Square. LONDON. .Tota PrCTl)i..l.a.,i™ .» I .. t.ih..' KESWICK III the Greta on the Crosthwaite road. Shelley, too, when obHged to quit Oxford, came to Keswick with his child-wife, and lived under the protection of the Duke of Norfolk. At one time the town was noted for its woollen manufac- ture, if we are to trust an ancient rhyme : " May God Almighty grant His aid, To Keswick and its woollen trade." Now, however, the chief manufacture is blacklead pencils. The process, which is very interesting, may be seen at any of the mills. The mineral black-lead (plumbago), of which they are manufactured, was formerly found in the mines at Seathwaite, in Borrowdale, but these have now been closed for some time. There are several good shops in the town where visitors can purchase geological specimens from the neighbourhood ; and some very accurate models of the Lake District will give visitors a good idea of its physical features. From Keswick, or from Portinscale or the Lodore and Borrowdale hotels, the facilities for walks and excursions are numerous. The Lodore Hotel, at the back of which are the celebrated Falls, is three miles from Keswick, and the Borrow- dale Hotel is just beyond it. Portinscale is a mile west of Keswick. WALKS FROM KESWICK. I. Round Derwentwater. There are three ways of starting this walk : (a) by taking the Borrowdale coach road, (b) by leaving the coach road at the Lake Hotel and turning to the right down Lake Road for Friar's Crag, (c) the best, by John Street and St. John's Churchyard. Following the north side of the church to the end of the building, we come suddenly upon the surprise view of Keswick, Derwentwater, the most beautiful of England's lakes, in all its lovehness. From the Churchyard, cross the Borrowdale Road and follow a footpath which leads into the end of Lake Road. Turning to the left, pass the boat-land- ings and along another footpath to — Friar's Crag. . This rocky promontory, about a mile from Keswick, is generally supposed to be so called because it was the landing- place of the friars of Grange. Others maintain that the name is derived from its being the wharf of St. Hubert, or Herbert, who occasionally lived on the island named after him. DERW 1 KESWICK III the Greta on the Crosthwaite road. Shelley, too, when •obliged to quit Oxford, came to Keswick with his child-wife, and lived under the protection of the Duke of Norfolk. At one time the town was noted for its woollen manufac- ture, if we are to trust an ancient rhyme : " May God Almighty grant His aid, To Keswick and its woollen trade." Now, however, the chief manufacture is blacklead pencils. The process, which is very interesting, may be seen at any of the mills. The mineral black-lead (plumbago), of which they are manufactured, was formerly found in the mines at Seathwaite, in Borrowdale, but these have now been closed for some time. There are several good shops in the town where visitors can purchase geological specimens from the neighbourhood ; and some very accurate models of the Lake District will give visitors a good idea of its physical features. From Keswick, or from Portinscale or the Lodore and Borrowdale hotels, the facilities for walks and excursions are numerous. The Lodore Hotel, at the back of which are the celebrated Falls, is three miles from Keswick, and the Borrow- dale Hotel is just beyond it. Portinscale is a mile west of Keswick. WALKS FROM KESWICK. I. Round Derwentwater. There are three ways of starting this walk : (a) by taking the Borrowdale coach road, (6) by leaving the coach road at the Lake Hotel and turning to the right down Lake Road for Friar's Crag, (c) the best, by John Street and St. John's Churchyard. Following the north side of the church to the end of the building, we come suddenly upon the surprise view of Keswick, Derwentwater, the most beautiful of England's lakes, in all its loveliness. From the Churchyard, cross the Borrowdale Road and follow a footpath which leads into the end of Lake Road. Turning to the left, pass the boat-land- ings and aloig another footpath to — • Friar's Crag. . This rocky promontory, about a mile from Keswick, is -generally supposed to be so called because it was the landing- place of the friars of Grange. Others maintain that the name is derived from its being the wharf of St. Hubert, or Herbert, who occasionally lived on the island named after him. 112 DERWENTWATER On the crag is the Ruskin Monument, erected in 1900, a simple block of Borrowdale stone, bearing on one side a bronze medallion with the following inscription beneath: "The first thing that I remember as an event in life was being taken by my nurse to the brow of Friar's Crag, Derwentwater." The lettering was designed and drawn by Mr. Collingwood, Ruskin's biographer. On the other side is a Celtic cross with the inscription: "The spirit of God is around you in the air you breathe, His glory in the light you see, and in the fruitfulness of the earth and the joy of His creatures. He has written for you day by day His revelation, and He has granted you day by day your daily bread." From the Crag nearl)?- the whole of the lake is visible. After much rain, the waters of Lodore, at the other end of the lake, may not only be seen but heard from this point. From Friar's Crag walk back to a wicket gate on the right, passing through which follow a footpath through Cockshot Wood and over two stiles to the Borrowdale Road, opposite — Castle Head. For the geologist Castle Head (or Castlet) is interesting as being all that is left of a volcano, to the eruptions of which the formation of the Lake District is primarily traced. To both geologist and tourist, Castle Head is also interesting as being the best view-point close to Keswick. The prospect from the summit is very charming and extensive. At our feet is the lake, dotted with richly wooded islets, among them St. Herbert's Island, Lord's Island, Derwent Island, and Ramp's Holme. St. Herbert's Island (or St. Hubert's) is mentioned by Rogers in his Pleasures of Memory (" Down St. Herbert's con- secrated grove "). Here lived St. Herbert, a disciple of St. Cuthbert of Carlisle. So attached were the tw^o friends that they died on the same day, in accordance with the prayer of the hermit of Derwentwater. There is also on this lake a Floating Island. It is generally submerged, but occasionally rises to the surface for a short time. This phenomenon is caused by the permeation of the sunken mass by marsh-gas during hot weather, the upward motion being assisted by the growth of buoyant water-plants on its surface. On piercing the soil with a boat hook, there is a plentiful escape of gas. The view behind Castle Head to the east is somewhat tame, but to the north, west and south the mountain panorama is splendid. To the north Skiddaw dominates the scene, then away be3"ond Bassenthwaite Water, Criffel, in Dumfries- shire, may sometimes be dimly seen. Passing along the low fells south of Bassenthwaite, the eye is attracted by the graceful cone of Grisedale Pike. Next the spurs of Grassmoor descend to the pastures of the Newlands Valley. Over Rowling End, the base of Causey Pike, conspicuous by its 27 26 DERWENTWATER 115 knobbed summit, Knott Rigg is seen end on, looking like a sharp pyramid. In the distance are the Buttermere fells. From the head of Newlands rises Robinson, and Catbells, sloping steeply up from the other side of the Lake, form an effective foreground in that direction. To the south are the Borrowdale fells, culminating in Scafell Pike. Castle Head can also, of course, be reached from Keswick by tlie main road. Continuing southward from Castle Head, we pass through Great Wood, with Walla Crag (1,234 f*)) towering above on the left, to be succeeded by Falcon Crag as we emerge. A deep cleft in the face of Walla Crag, visible from the road, bears the name of the Lady*s Rake, from the circumstance that the Countess of Derwentwater made her escape from Lord's Island up the ravine on]receiving intelligence of her hus- band's arrest for participation in the Rebellion of 1715. At a distance of two miles from Keswick, we may, on obtaining the requisite permission at the lodge, enter the grounds of Barrow House, in order to visit Barrow Fall, which is well worth seeing. The water descends 122 feet by two leaps. The cultivated grounds here present a remarkable contrast with the wild scenery around Lodore, a further mile south of Keswick. The Falls of Lodore {entrance 2d.) are reached by a path just beyond the Lodore Hotel. The " lion " here is, of course, the cataract, a lion which, except after heavy rain, roars as gently as any sucking dove. The ravine, however, is very beautiful. The upper falls should be visited. The stream falls through a chasm between the towering per- pendicular rocks of Gowder Crag and Shepherd's Crag. These cliffs are draped with oak, ash, and birch trees, which fan- tastically impend from rocks at points where growth would seem impossible. In calm weather, an extremely fine echo is to be heard. The beautiful little valley, beyond the Borrow- dale Hotel, that runs up into the hills behind Grange Crag is Troutdale. A mile south of Lodore is the village of Grange, with a double bridge over the Derwent, immediately on the other side of which is a large slab of rock bearing distinct glacial markings. The whole of Borrowdale was given to the monks of Furness, probably by one of the Derwentwater family, and Adam de Derwentwater gave them free egress through all his lands. Grange was the place where they stored grain and tithe, and also the salt made at the salt spring, of which works there are still vestiges below the village. Crossing the Derwent by Grange Bridge, and turning north- ward, we reach the hamlet of Manesty, with a medicinal spring near by. Proceeding at a considerable height along English Lakes [h) 114 DERWENTWATER— WALLA CRAG the open side of Catbells (1,482 ft.) we obtain one of the best views of the lake and valley, with Skiddaw and Saddleback in the background. The retrospect here is also very attrac- tive. Below are the Brandelhow Mines, the one eyesore of Derwentwater, and, next to them, in charming contrast, Brandelhow Park. In 1902 Brandelhow Park was in danger of falling into the hands of the builders, but it was rescued by the National Trust for the Preservation of Places of His- toric Interest and National Beauty. Thanks chiefly to the exertions of Miss Octavia Hill and Canon Rawnsley, the re- quired sum, ;^6,5oo, was raised in less than six months. From the north end of Catbells a pretty footpath takes us through the woods to Portinscale, about twenty minutes' walk from Keswick. This walk round Derwentwater is about twelve miles. Variation i. Follow the main road till below Walla Crag we come to a gate on the left. Pass through this, and walk up a wide path through Great Wood till Brockle Beck is reached close to Rake Foot. From this point two lanes iead to the Ambleside road, and there is also a field path to the left which leads into Keswick near St. John's Church. Variation 2. Immediately before reaching the Borrowdale Hotel a zigzag path (Ladder Brow) climbs the fellside and joins the Watendlath road a little above the Lodore Falls. Just before crossing the footbridge on this route there is a pretty ramble to the right through Moss Mire, which, however, leads nowhere. The Upper Lodore Falls may also be visited {see Walk 3, p. 115). Of course, these variations can be taken the reverse way, starting from Keswick, and this procedure will be found less fatiguing. 2. To Walla Crag and Falcon Crag. Follow the Ambleside road until, a Httle beyond the Old Toll Gate, a road to the right leads to Rakefoot. Crossing a bridge, we walk over the open moor by a wall till we reach a stile which takes us to the top of Walla Crag, commanding a grand view of Derwentwater, Skiddaw and the Newlands and Borrowdale Fells, much the same only more extensive than the prospect from Castle Head. A notice here warns the tourist that there is no further road, and his general course is to return by the way he came. He will do well, however, to proceed south round the head of Cat Ghyll to the summit of Falcon Crag, an even more pleasing view-point than Walla Crag. From this point a rough track along the fellside southward joins the Watendlath road near Ashness WATENDLATH 115 Bridge {see below). Thence the walk may be continued to Watendlath, or a descent made by Ladder Brow (p. 1 14) •or a return made to Keswick. 3. To Watendlath. A ramble through this secluded valley is a pleasing addition to the ordinary walk round Derwentwater. It runs parallel with Borrowdale on the east, and is not easily accessible ex- cept on foot or horseback, although Hght carriages are some- times taken as far as the hamlet of Watendlath. The stream ■which forms the waterfall of Lodore issues from a beautiful little circular tarn in this upland valley. The road to Watend- lath turns out of that from Keswick to Borrowdale beyond Walla Crag, and passes behind Barrow House, crossing a moun- tain stream over which is Ashness Bridge, a favourite spot for artists. In the second wood beyond Ashness Bridge two paths, about fifty yards apart, are cut to the edge of the cliffs above Lodore. The view from either point is very beautiful. On leaving this wood, a path to the right leads down to the Upper Lodore Falls, which are worth visiting, both for them- selves and for the fine views over Derwentwater. This path ■mayibe followed over Ladder Brow {see Walk i. Variation 2). It joins the Borrowdale road close to the Borrowdale Hotel. Going straight on, however, just before reaching Watendlath a gate to the right leads us to the Churn, a curious " punch- bowl " with a hole in its bottom, which the Watendlath Beck lias hollowed in the rock. At Watendlath, two miles from Lodore, a pretty bridge is thrown across the stream which issues from the tarn above. Temperance refreshments can be •obtained at the farmhouse. Leaving the tarn on the left, we follow a track over the fells for Rosthwaite. At first the surroundings are somewhat monotonous, till all at once, with the suddenness characteristic of the Lake District, a splendid panorama opens before us. Glaramara is right at our feet, and beyond are the passes and peaks of the wildest part of Lakeland. The walk to Rosthwaite by Watendlath, returning by Borrowdale, is a little over thirteen miles. (For Rosthwaite to Grange, see Walk 4 ; for Grange to Keswick, Walk i . ) Variation. Close to the Ghyll that descends from the east to the village a zigzag path climbs on to the open fell. Here ■the track, which is difficult to trace, bifurcates, one branch leading due east across the heather to Thirlmere at Armboth, to which it descends steeply by Fisher Crag ; the other curv- ing to the right, and passing Blea and Harrop Tarns. This route is preferable, if only because it comes out at the south ii6 BORROW DALE end of Thirlmere, where rest and refreshment can be obtaine(3 at the Nag's Head. The path, which is marked by cairns, is often very wet, but by keeping the cairns below one this dis- comfort is avoided. The round is a long one, and it is well to make sure of catching a coach at Wythburn. As a variation walk there is not much to recommend this expedition, but the reverse route is a pleasant way of getting from Wythburn to Watendlath, Rosthwaite, or Keswick. 4. To Rosthwaite and the Bowder Stone. This route has already been described as far as Grange under Walk i. The remaining two miles take us to Ros- thwaite through the most beautiful valle}^ (if we except the hideous quarry at the foot of Grange Fell) in England, perhaps in Great Britain. Immediately beyond the quarry known as the Fairy Cavern (now inaccessible) is the famous Bowder Stone, a remarkable rock of prodigious bulk, which lies like a ship upon its keel. It is sixty-two feet long and thirty-six high ; cir- cumference, eighty-nine feet; weight, 1,970 "tons. It was probably detached by some great convulsion of Nature from the rock above ; but that it should have remained in its present position after the impetus gained in descent is sur- prising. The stone is wonderfully balanced. From this point a fine view of the upper part of Borrowdale is obtained. A httle beyond the Bowder Stone, in the gorge of Borrowdale, is a high and nearly detached rock, called Castle Crag, the site of a fortification of Roman origin. The view from the summit is a delight to the eyes, but unfortunately the base of the Crag is rather difficult of access. Overlooking Castle Crag is the bulky mass of Gate Crag, on the other side of the valley, but the pick of the scenery during this walk is to be found in the richly wooded banks of the Derwent and the ever-changing mountain prospect in front. ^^ Variation. Cross Grange Bridge and turn to the left through the village and along a path which runs through the woods below Gate Crag. The main road is rejoined at Ros- thwaite by following a track which runs down to the left oppo- site that village, or a little farther on by taking the next to the left, past Johnny Wood, and coming out almost opposite the'church. This walk, always delightful, is far preferable to the main road on a hot day, especially since the coming of motors. Pedestrians making the Honister Round may, instead of turning down to Rosthwaite, continue along the path behind High Doat, and join the coach road beyond Seatoller. A. Pettitt,] [Keswick. CASTLE CRAG, BORROWDALE. Valentine & Sons, Ltd.,] [Dundee. THE BOWDER STONE, BORROWDALE. Lakes. 29 30 DRUIDICAL CIRCLE—THIRLSPOT 117 5. To the Druidical Circle. A walk to this interesting spot gives a pleasant " consti- tutional " of about four miles, including return. Proceed along the Penrith road for about a mile to the second railway- bridge, having crossed which take the second turning on the right. This is the old road to Penrith, and here commences a very steep incline of about half a mile. When at the top, the Circle will be found in a field adjoining the road, indicated by a stile, near the east corner of a narrow lane on the right hand. The stones forming this temple (there is little doubt that it was a sun temple) describe a circle nearly a hundred feet in diameter. The situation appears to have been most carefully selected. From no equally- accessible position in the neighbourhood can the visitor obtain the same commanding and magnificent view. He finds him- self on an eminence in the centre of an immense circle of mountains, and obtains a panoramic view nearly a hundred miles in circumference, including a grand view of Saddleback, Skiddaw, Helvellyn, the Scafell group, Grisedale Pike, and many other of the highest mountains of Cumberland, as well as of some beautiful vales. On returning, the walk may be prolonged by taking the lane which leads into the Ambleside road about two miles from Keswick. 6. To Thirlspot, the Vale of St. John, Threlkeld and Brundholme Woods. This ramble permits of numerous variations by any of the side paths between the Ambleside road and the Vale of St. John. It can, of course, be taken the reverse way, but this is not advisable, as it leaves a stiff bit of collar-work for the end of the walk. The total length of the round is about •sixteen miles. The Ambleside road is followed either to Shoulthwaite Bridge or as far as Thirlspot. During the steep ascent from Keswick the views to the right over Derwentwater and Borrowdale, and backward down the Vale of Keswick and Bassenthwaite, would demand halt and restrospect, even on a level road. The descent commands the Helvellyn range and the basin in which Thirlmere reposes. After crossing the bridge at Shoulthwaite, a look-out behind should be kept on Skiddaw, as at one point its summit, which is invisible from Keswick, comes into view. From Thirlspot the direction is due north, with the Naddle Fells on the left and the Helvellyn range on the right. By the second ghyll {Stanah) we reach on this side is the Sticks ii8 THRELKELD—BASSENTHWAITE LAKE Pass, which leads over to Patterdale. A short distance- farther, close to the next ghyll, is the celebrated Castl& Crag, which from some points presents every appearance of a* fortified castle, with towers, battlements, and keep. It is well to look back two or three times after passing it. Some- distance farther on is Bram Crag, fissured by one of the deepest gullies in the district, and next come the picturesque Wan- thwaite Crags. During the greater part of this portion of the walk Saddleback is seen at its best, straight in front. From. Threlkeld the Keswick road should be followed for a few hundred yards, and then the turning to the right taken. This road must be kept to, as it is particularly easy for tourists, for some reason, to get astray here. Once in Brundholme Woods, the way is unmistakable. This walk may be shortened some five miles by taking the train from Threlkeld to Keswick. 7. Round Bassenthwaite Lake. A delightful walk ! But relatively to the wealth of beauty accessible in the neighbourhood, it is at least questionable whether the amount of time and energy entailed by an eigh- teen-mile trudge on a metalled road could not be more pro- fitably and pleasurably expended in some other direction. It will, however, amply repay the pedestrian to take train; to Bassenthwaite Lake Station, returning by either side of the Lake. The western side is preferable, but a detour as far as Ouse Bridge and back will not be time wasted. For description of route, see p. 125, under Drives from Keswick. To tramp out to Bassenthwaite Lake Station and return by train is a mistake, as during the walk one has one's back to the best of the scenery, and from the train one cannot see it. 8. Skiddaw Terrace and Crosthwaite Church. From Crosthwaite churchyard a track runs across fields and under the railway, joining the Bassenthwaite road about a mile and a half from Keswick. Following this road to the left, we come to a lane on the right which takes us to Apple- th waite. We turn again to the left along a " terrace " (a road) which, according to Southey, gives the best general view of Derwentwater, and certainly the prospect goes far to justify his opinion. From Millbeck, about a mile farther on, the maia road can be regained, and a return made to Keswick. Length, of walk about seven miles. PORTINSCALE—BUTTERMERE WALKS 119 9. Portinscale, with Newlands or Braithwaite. Immediately beyond the bridge over the Greta on the Crosthwaite road, a path to the left leads across the fields ta Portinscale, rejoining the main road close to a bridge over the Derwent, which receives the waters of the Greta almost imme- diately after leaving the Lake. To the right Skiddaw domin- ates the scene ; in front are the Lorton Fells, but the finest prospect is away to the left. The Newlands Fells are seen, to great advantage ; to the left of them is the basin of Der- wentwater, with Borrowdale beyond, terminating in the frowning buttress of Great End. The httle point between it and Glaramara is not Hanging Knott (as local informants sometimes say), but Esk Pike (2,903 ft.). To the left of Glaramara is High Raise, with its flat summit, and farther round are the famiHar woods and crags overlooking Derwent- water. From Portinscale (i^ miles) the walk can be continued to Braithwaite, a little over a mile farther on, and a circular return made by the road running up Newlands from that village, either by Swinside, or Stair, or any of the by-lanes. A better walk, however, is to Newlands. About half a mile beyond Portinscale is an opening to the left which leads through pretty woods to the base of Catbells. It is rather difficult to hit off the opening of this route, and it may save confusion to ask the way, though a serious divergence is im- possible. With Catbells on the left, a green track leads along the base of the fell until some old mines are reached, from, which a rough path runs down to the right to Little Town. Our route is now to the left, and then, immediately after crossing a bridge, to the right for the Newlands Hotel, on the main road to Keswick. Length of walk about eleven miles. WALKS FROM BUTTERMERE. {For note on Buttermere, see pp. 12 1-3.) Round Buttermere. A very charming round of about six miles, which may be taken either way. The more pleasant is to follow the road to Gatesgarth, at the foot of the Honister Pass, from which a track to the right leads to the foot of the Scarf Gap Pass. Then, turning again to the right, a good road runs along the side of the lake till a stone bridge is reached, crossing which we return to Buttermere by a field track. Mountain scenery is the chief feature of the outgoing route, sylvan and lake scenery of the return. 120 DRIVES FROM KESWICK Round Crummock Water. About nine miles. We follow the Cockermouth road till near the foot of the lake, and then turn to the left from Lanthwaite Green for the Scale Hill Hotel. After this we cross the Cocker, and return by the other side of the lake. Any weariness on the return journey is more than compensated by the beauty of the scenery. The walk maybe extended by continuing to Lowes water village and returning to Buttermere round Melbreak by Mosedale. If this route is taken it is better to go by Mosedale, returning by either side of Crum- mock one may select. COACH DRIVES FROM KESWICK. 1. Lodore, Rosthwaite, Honister Pass, Buttermere, returning by Buttermere Hause and Newlands. 6s. (24 miles.) 2. Ullswater by Troutbeck, Patterdale, Pooley Bridge, and Pen- rith. Rail, coach and steamer, or by the reverse route, 3rd class, js. ; excursion, 4s. gd. 3. Round Thirlmere, 4s. (21 miles.) 4. Thirlspot (is. 6d.), Wythburn (2s.), Grasmere (4s. ; return, 6s.), Ambleside (5s.), Waterhead (5s. 6d.), Bowness {bs.), Windermere '(6s. 6d. Return fares, gs. gd.). (36 miles.) 5. Round Bassenthwaite Water, 3s. (18 miles.) 6. Round Derwentwater, 2s. 6d. (12 miles.) 7. Embleton, Vale of Lorton, Scale Hill, Whinlatter Pass, 6s. 8. Rosthwaite, is. Return, 2s. (12 miles.) 9. Penrith, by Brougham Hall, Lowther Castle, Askham, Pooley Bridge, Dalemain Park, Penrith (rail and coach). Excursion, 4s. gd. 10. Penrith, Eden Hall, Kirkoswald, Nunnery Walks, Penrith (rail and coach). Excursion, 4s. gd. 11. Penrith, Patterdale, Ambleside, Keswick (rail, coach and steamer). 3rd class, iis. 5^. Tickets available for seven days. 12. Keswick, Penrith, Patterdale, Windermere, Keswick (rail, •coach and steamer). 3rd class, 12s. 6d. Tickets available for seven days. Tour cannot be completed in one day. 13. Keswick, Troutbeck, Penrith, returning the same way (rail and coach). 3rd class, 5s. 3^. Carriage Drives. Of the above excursions, Nos. i and 3 to 8 may also be taken in private carriages. A pleasant addition to the Thirlmere Round may be made by including the Vale of St. John. (Distance, 21 miles.) A long drive of 35 miles takes one round Skiddawand Saddleback, through Caldbeck, the home of John Peel. Fares by arrangement. The usual charge is is. ^d. a mile for a single horse, is. gd. for a pair. Brakes are readily provided for parties at moderate prices. THE HONISTER ROUND 121 I. The Honister Round. The coach leaves at 10, returning about 6. It is claimed for the Honister Round, as it is termed, that it is the finest drive in Great Britain, We have heard this statement disputed, but have never known it disproved. The route as far as Rosthwaite is described under Walks i and 4, on pp. in and 116. Immediately beyond Rosthwaite a valley opens to the left, which divides on either side of Eagle Crag, a noble rock, into the valleys of Langstrath to the west and Greenup to the east, by which a pedestrian may easily pass into Westmorland by Langdale or Grasmere. Two miles farther, again on the left, a gate indicates the route to the Sty (popularly Styehead) Pass to Wasdale {see p. 155). Immediately beyond this is the hamlet of Seatoller, through which our road leads up by a stream, Hause Ghyll, a very picturesque walk, to Honister Hause. Though the surround- ings are bare, the backward views are very fine. The craggy summit to the left is Glaramara (2,560 ft.)- (Carriages, cycles and motors take a zigzag route to the north to avoid the steepest part of the ascent. There is a small toll to pay for this diversion.) Then the road descends rapidly between Yew Crag and Honister Crag. The latter is one of the most remarkable in the Lake District. It is some seventeen hundred and fifty feet above sea-level, and for more than a thousand feet is a steep descent at an alarming angle ; the upper part is a sheer precipice. The summit, from which is gained a splendid view of neighbouring lakes and mountains, is, however, easily reached from Honister Hause. The descent to Buttermere over Fleetwith requires care, the ridge line being closely followed. Near the foot of Fleetwith, just above Gatesgarth (the farm at the foot of the pass), is a cross to the memory of a girl accidentally killed there. Soon after the descent commences, Melbreak and Hen Comb come into view between the walls of the pass. The descent is at a walking pace, and nervous passengers may remember that the drivers attach considerable value to their own necks. As soon as the coach is on fairly level ground, we bowl along through Gatesgarth to — Buttermere. This gem of the Lakes has a noble setting of mountains. Brandreth, Green Gable, Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile 122 BUTTERMERE and Red Pike form the background from the village, whilst Buttermere Moss and Robinson close in the view to the north. Fleetwith, Honister Crag and Dalehead, at the head of the Lake, seem to shut out all communication to the south-east. At its outlet the lake is separated from Crum- mock Water by meadows and luxuriant woods and hedgerows, the background being dominated by Melbreak. Buttermere is well stocked with fish, char and trout particularly, of large size and splendid condition. The angling, however^ is in the hands of private individuals, and there is little chance of the casual visitor getting an}'- sport. Skirting the edge of the lake, we pass through the prettily wooded grounds of Hassness and reach Buttermere village,, where a halt is called for lunch. After lunch a visit should be paid to Scale Force, the loftiest fall in the district. The stream leaps, in one clear fall of a hundred and twenty- feet, between perpendicular walls of syenite. To reach the fall we turn to the right beyond the Fish. Hotel and across the meadows to Crummock Water, whence a boat (is. return) will take us to the mouth of Scale Beck. A rough path is then followed for about three-quarters of a mile to the Force. If time permits, it is well worth while to walk to Ling Grag, a little rock promontory at the foot of Melbreak, for the sake of the view. To the right are the Buttermere fells, with Honister Crag in the distance and Warnscale Bottom to the left. In front, the sharp peak is Whiteless Pike, with Rannerdale Knotts below, and the massive red bulk of Grassmoor on our left. Leaving the village, the coaches climb steeply by the shoulder of Buttermere Moss. About loo yards along the road Great Gable and Kirkfell come into sight for a minute over the Haystacks. At the top of the Hause, Robinson frowns on us on the right. The mountain in the distance in front is Saddleback. The valley we are now entering is- Keskadale, and the scenery, though comparatively tame, is attractive. The sensation at this point is the Devil's Elbow, a sharp double turn down a steep slope which will first impress passengers with the dangers of Lakeland coaching, and thea and thereafter with the skill of the Lakeland drivers. A little farther on a halt is called at the Ncwlands Hotel. Here Newlands Valley and Littledale open finely on the right THIRLMERE 125 and Eel Crags present an imposing precipice. The remainder of the route hes through Swinside and Portinscale to Keswick by Crosthwaite. 2. The Ullswater Round. See the Eastern, or Ullswater, section of this book, p. 13 5-. 3. Round Thirlmere. The route as far as Thirlspot is described under Walk 6,.. p. 117. Thence the road now runs along the side of Thirlmere^, below the slopes of Helvellyn. Formerly there was here a projecting dark-coloured rock, immortahzed as the Rock ot. Names : — " Fail not thou loved rock to keep Thy charge, when we are laid to sleep." Its fate forms a curious chapter in the romantic history o£ the district. The rock fronted the old road, and on its surface, were carved " W.W." (Wm. Wordsworth), " S.T.C." (S. T. Coleridge), " J.W." (John Wordsworth), " M.H." (Mary Hutchinson, afterwards Mrs. W. Wordsworth), " D.W.'*^ (Dorothy Wordsworth), and " S.H." (Sara Hutchinson,, sister of Mary). Sir John James Harwood, Chairman of the Waterworks Committee, in his official History of the Thirlmere Water Scheme, has given an interesting account of the fate of this stone : — " As the works of the Corporation in connection with the raising of the lake would interfere with this rock, it was sug- gested that the face of it should be removed and kept as a; memento. Several applications were made for this relic by persons interested in antiquarian research, and ultimately it was agreed to allow it to be taken to the Wordsworth Institute, Cockermouth. On attempting to disturb it,, however, it was found to be in such a shattered condition that it could only be taken out in pieces. The fragments con- taining the initials were preserved, and have been built inta- a cairn on a solid base of mountain stone, at a point above the. new road diversion, in a line with the rock from which they- were taken." Thirlmere is now the chief source of Manchester's water supply, with, which city, ninety-five miles distant, it is connected by a series of huge aqueducts. The lake is about three miles long. T 24 THIRLMERE— WYTHB URN and a little over a quarter of a mile wide. The surface level has been raised considerably by means of a huge dam, eight hundred feet long and about a hundred feet high, across the foot of the lake. The dam is divided in the centre by a rocky knoll, which forms a natural buttress. There are two outlets from the dam, one fifty feet above the natural level of the lake, the other considerably higher. Thus, should the needs of Manchester require it, the volume of water can readily be]increased by the simple device of stopping the lower tunnel and causing the water so confined to rise to the level of the upper one. We can still see below us the commencement of the old ■coach road and traces of enclosed fields now partially sub- merged by the raised waters ; and about half-way between Thirlspot and Wythburn are indications of the old " Wath " bridge that formerly nearly bisected the lake. In about two miles we pass the Straining Well of the Waterworks, and, a little farther on, pull up at — Wythburn, -•eight and a quarter miles from Ambleside. " Wythburn's modest house of prayer " derives most of its importance from the fact that Wordsworth wrote about it (quotations from Wordsworth, Southey, and Rawnsley are inside). The equally famous Nag's Head Inn is close to the church. On the return, half a mile beyond Wythburn we swing to the right and follow the magnificent new road down the western side of the lake to the end, where a roadway sixteen feet in breadth, along which vehicles can pass, traverses the dam, connecting the new and the old roads, which also join some distance farther on. Opinions differ as to the side of the lake from which the better prospect is obtained. From the eastern road one has the best view of the Armboth Rocks, beautiful from their irregularity. Raven Crag and Fisher Crag conspicuous among them, and of the picturesque cas- cades of Launchy Ghyll, just south of Fisher Crag. From the new (the western) road, though, Helvellyn, which is too close over the other side to be seen to advantage, presents a noble background. We, however, recommend the tourist to go by the western /(new) road, coming back by the eastern, chiefly on account 31 42 BASSENTHWAITE LAKE 125 of the imposing views of Saddleback obtained on the return- journey. 4. Keswick to Windermere, by Thirlmere, Grasmere and Ambleside. Described in Route 3 (p. 123) as far as Wythburn, whence a mile and a quarter's drive takes us to Dunmail Raise, for which, and the remainder of the route, see pp. 87 and 82. The eastern road should be taken, otherwise Wythburn is missed. 5. Round Bassenthwaite Lake. Though the excursion to Bassenthwaite Water may be readily and inexpensively made by rail, many tourists prefer to go by road (motors and coaches make the circuit of the lake every afternoon at a low charge) through the delightful Vale of Keswick, which stretches from the head of Derwent- water to the foot of Bassenthwaite Lake. The route lies through Braithwaite, at the foot of Whinlatter. Passing through Thornthwaite {Swan Hotel), the road skirts the base of Lord's Seat (1,811 ft.) and Barf, with its Bishop, a curious rock about half-way up the fell-side, not unlike a man in a surplice. From time to time his Grace is touched up with whitewash lest he should be unfrocked by the weather. Beyond Barf the road undulates pleasantly through wood and glade on the western margin of the lake to Peel Wyke {Pheasant Hotel) . At this end of the lake we see for the first time the twin summit, the " double front," of Skiddaw. A httle beyond, the road turns off on the right at the guide-post to Ouse Bridge, which crosses the Derwent as that river leaves the lake. Here, and at Armathwaite close by, are the best views for those who keep the road generally pursued in making the circuit of the lake ; but the pedestrian would be fully com- pensated if he were to deviate at the Castle Inn, a mile from Ouse Bridge, follow the Hesket-Newmarket road for about a mile, and then turn on the right to the top of the Hause, from which is presented a magnificent view of Bassenthwaite and the vales of Embleton and Isel. 6. Round Derwentwater. This route is described under Walk i, p. iii. ^26 WHINLATTER PASS— KESWICK FELLS 1j, To Embleton, the Vale of Lorton, Scale Hill and Whinlatter Pass. This drive takes one somewhat outside the District. It starts along Bassenthwaite Lake and crossing the lower fells beyond returns by the Vale of Lorton and the Whinlatter Pass, The Whinlatter Pass may, however, be used for the Gake of variety as an alternative route to Buttermere instead of the Honister route, through there is nothing to be gained by the change except variety, as the scenery is immeasurably inferior throughout, if we except the approach to Butter- mere by Crummock Water. The Whinlatter Pass starts from Braithwaite and skirts the northern base of Grisedale Pike. About six miles from Keswick the road forks, the right-hand branch leading to the Vale of Lorton, which, with the sea beyond, presents a pleasing prospect of meadow, wood, river and hill. The left-hand fork skirts the base of the massive bulk of Grassmoor. 8. To Rosthwaite. {See route outlined under Walks i and 4, pp. in, 116). Space forbids a detailed description of excursions 9 to 13, laref erred to on p. 120. THE FELLS (KESWICK SECTION). >i. Dalehead with Hindscarth, Robinson, Eel Crags, etc. {See Outline Guide {g), p. 64.) A splendid circular walk of about thirteen miles. To the east is the Helvellyn range, and just over the north shoulder of Helvellyn itself a sharp cone is seen. This is Catchedicam . The look down, first into Borrowdale on the left and New- lands on the right, from the Eel Crags ridge hne, and after- wards from Dalehead into Honister Pass and the Buttermere Valley, is both beautiful and impressive. From Dalehead cairn the prospect southward is grand. The noble peak to the left is Bowfell ; next comes the Scafell group, with Great Gable and the Pillar, and close at hand are the cragg}'- scarps of the Buttermere Fells. The view down Newlands is very striking. Buttermere, Crummock Water, and Loweswater come into view during this walk. Turning home on Robinson the Grassmoor fells are on the left, but they are not seen, to the best advantage. THE FELLS [KESWICK SECTION) 127 2. Glaramara. [See Outline Guide (e), p. 62.) This is a grand mountain, very massive, and as a view- point almost equal to High Raise {see p. 107). The latter has the advantage inasmuch as Glaramara can be seen from it, whereas the aspect of High Raise from Glaramara is de- •cidedly tame. On the other hand, the view down Borrowdale from Glaramara is superior. It is a fell that should be avoided in misty weather ; there is no more confusing sum- mit in the whole Lake District. The coach between Keswick and Rosthwaite will be found convenient. 3. Grassmoor, with Grisedale Pike, Eel Crags, Causey- Pike, etc. [See Outline Guide (&), p. 60.) Grassmoor by the Force Crag route is the easiest mountain to ascend from Keswick, and one of the finest view-points -in the Lakes. From the cairns on its wide summit one can look right down on Buttermere, Crummock and Loweswater, and the Scafell group are seen almost at their best. They present an even finer appearance, however, from Wand- iiope and Whiteless Pike. From Wandhope there is a striking panorama of the Newlands group. Over Grisedale Pike, on to Grassmoor, returning over Eel Crag and Causey Pike, is a fine expedition. Or a descent may be made by Whiteless Pike {very steep) to Buttermere on the chance of getting a seat on a coach. 4. Helvellyn. [See Ullswater Section and Outline Guide [i), p. 66.) It is best to coach from Keswick to Wythburn and ascend -from there. The descent can be made either by Helvellyn Ghyll or Thirlspot, or the mountain can be crossed to Patter- ■dale in time to catch coach or steamer. (Care is required in stepping down on to Striding Edge.) A charming round is to reach Patterdale by Penrith, Pooley Bridge and Ulls- water, and cross Helvellyn to Wythburn or Thirlspot, tak- ing one of the Keswick- Windermere coaches on the return journey. 5. High Raise. {See Windermere Section and Outline Guide [h),pp. 107, and 6$^) Drive to Rosthwaite, and take the path on the other side •of the stream, behind the hotel, up Greenup till Lining Crag 128 THE FELLS [KESWICK SECTION) is reached. The path Hes up the near side of the crag. But for the bad walking up the valley over loose stones and moraine heaps, this would be an easier expedition than Grassmoor. Ullscarf is seldom ascended for its own sake, but it may conveniently be taken on the return from High Raise. 6. Lord's Seat and Barf. The ascent is made from the Swan Inn at Thornthwaite. Skiddaw is seen at its best from this point. The Pike of Stickle, like a giant's thimble, is visible in a southerly direction. 7. Saddleback. [See Outline Guide (a), p. 59.) Saddleback commands a magnificent view. Away to the east is the Crossfell range. Right in front is the Helvellyn range, with the Matterdale fells on the east ; and on the west St. John's Vale and Thirlmere, with the Coniston fells be- yond. Farther to the right is the Scafell Group, with Great Gable, and nearer the familiar fells round Berwentwater, Skiddaw shuts in the prospect to the v/est. To the north is the dreary Skiddaw Forest, with the Solway and the Scotch hills beyond. 8. Skiddaw. Generally speaking, the higher one goes up a fell, the better the view. In the case of Skiddaw, however, as the prospect gains in extent it loses in beauty. The view from the Low Man is superior to that from the High Man, and so on down the scale, through Lonscale Fell and Latrigg to the Dodd, which, as it takes in Bassenthwaite, is, to our mind, the best of all. It may be remembered that the fell that appears beyond High Stile is the Pillar, The Old Man at Coniston is easily recognized by its conspicuous cairn. To the west is the Isle of Man, and to the north are the Solway and Scot- land. On a very clear day the hills round Moffat may be discerned to the north. The Buttermere Fells. {See Outline Guide (c), p. 60.) It is very well worth staying a day at Buttermere for the sake of traversing these fells. The expedition should be made from Scale Force and the ridge line followed over Red Pike, High Stile and High Crag to Scarf Gap, returning by Lakes. 33 G. P. Abraham,} [Keswick. THE SUMMIT OF SKIDDAW. G. P. Abraham,] LOWESWATER AND MELBREAK. 34 ^ i ^ THE FELLS [KESWICK SECTION) 129- Gatesgarth. Strong walkers may, however, continue over the labyrinth of the Haystacks, and, sweeping round the head of Warnscale Bottom, descend over Fleetwith. The scenery is very fine throughout. If time is limited. Red Pike should be unhesitatingly selected. The tourist will do well to face north first, then turn west, then south. At his feet is Butter- mere, with the Newlands fells above it ; beyond is Derwent- water, and Saddleback and Skiddaw close the horizon. Then come the Grassmoor Fells, falling steeply to Crummock Water, with Whiteside beyond. Between Crummock and Lowes- water, Melbreak stands up. Next Ennerdale Water ap- pears, lying in the wild valley of that name, on the other side of which rises the grand front of Pillar Fell. The Scafell group is also well seen. High Stile shuts out most of the view to the east, the distant mountains seen in that direction being the Helvellyn range from Fairfield to its northern extremity. Melbreak. The return from Loweswater suggested on p. 120 may be varied without much fatigue by walking oves the top of this mountain. English Lakes (i) THE EASTERN, OR ULLSWATER, SECTION, INCLUDING HAWES WATER PATTERDALE. JVccess. — To Penrith by the L. & N.W. Railway and thence by coach or motor to Pooley Bridge and steamer up Ullswater. Boats. — IS. per hour, 5s. day, 12s. to 20s. week. Motor Launch, 3s. to 5s. an hour. Hotels and Tariffs. — See Introduction. Places of Worship. — Parish Church, Wesleyan Chapel (Glenridding). Post Office. — In village. .Steamer Pier at Ullswater Hotel. PATTERDALE, the principal centre for the Ullswater district, is delightfully situated at the head of Ulls- water and seems to nestle among the wooded slopes of the spurs of Helvellyn and St. Sunday Crag. Patterdale means, or is said to mean, Patrickdale, and the place was " no doubt " visited by the Irish saint : the church is dedicated to him, and there is a well near the village where he used to baptize •converts. Popularly the interest of Patterdale is confined to the voyage up Ullswater, the ascent of Helvellyn, and, inciden- tally, a visit to Aira Force. Its circumscribed situation, shut off seemingly from the central portions of the Lake District by a lofty barrier of mountains, has led many to •overlook the possibilities of Patterdale as a driving centre. The hst on p. 131 shows how mistaken is this notion. Of the favourite central resorts Windermere is visited daily via the beautiful Troutbeck Valley ; and Keswick may be more easily, if less pleasantly, reached by a regular service of brakes -and trains. The words " less pleasantly " apply to the monotonous drive between Dockwray and Troutbeck station •over Matterdale Common. Here all around is featureless moorland ; to the left the slopes of Helvelljm look their tamest ; to the right is the unsightly Mell Fell ; Saddleback, in front, alone relieves the prospect. The purpose of nature may be — to adapt Ruskin — " to provide a foil for neighbouring scenes of extreme beauty," only we feel we could do without the foil. 130 EXCURSIONS FROM PATTERDALE 131 Drives from Patterdale. Fares by arrangement. The prices generally work out at IS. 2)d. a mile for a single horse, 15. gd. a mile for a pair. The fare covers the whole route and the driver's fee. The charges for coach drives are very moderate. 1. To Low Wood by Kirkstone Pass and the Vale of Troutbeck ■■(Westmorland), returning by Ambleside over Kirkstone Pass. A coach leaves the Ullswater Hotel daily at 10.30, returning about •6.30 (25 miles). 2. To Windermere by Troutbeck (Westmorland), returning as •above (about 30 miles). 3. To Grasmere by Troutbeck (Westmorland), returning as in Drive i (33 miles). 4. To top of Kirkstone and back (14 miles). 5. To Aira Force and Gowbarrow (6 miles). 6. To Gowbarrow and Watermillock, returning by Matterdale Hause and Dockwray (16 miles). 7. To Lowther Castle by Pooley Bridge and Askham (25 miles). 8. To^Hawes Water by Pooley Bridge and Lowther Castle (46 miles). 9. To Keswick by Matterdale, St. John's Vale and Threlkeld. ga. Coaches are also run twice daily to Troutbeck (Cumberland) Station in connection with the trains to Keswick. Pony Excursions. 1. Grisedale Tarn and back (8 miles). 2. Ascent of Helvelljoi by Glenridding Valley, returning by ■Grisedale (13 miles). 3. Ascent of High Street ; drive to Brothers' Water, and then on ponies (14 miles). 4. To Mardale over High Street. We would specially recommend Drive 6. Many people think that the mountain glory that adorns the head of Ullswater is best seen during the voyage up the lake {see p. 135). It is really an open question. The steamer passes so close under Place Fell that the bulk of that mountain inter- cepts the view in the direction of Red Screes, Caudale Moor, and Gray Crag, which are finely seen from the northern side of the lake. On the one hand, we miss the rapidly changing prospect of glen, mountain and ridge which the steamer presents. Again, on the other, from the steamer we feel the want of the placid foreground of the lake, and the deli- cate frame of the quiet woodlands of Gowbarrow. We should recommend the tourist to take both the voyage and tthe drive (or walk). 132 WALKS FROM PATTERDALE Walks from Patterdale. The beautiful valley of Glenridding has, alas, been de- faced by a hideous lead mine, the refuse of which has also- killed off the Ullswater char. Still there remain Glencoin, Grisedale, Deepdale, Dovedale, the Pasture Beck Valley, Hayeswater Ghyll, leading up from Low Hartsop, and beyond, from the lakeside near Sandwick and Howtown, Boardale, Bannerdale, Rampsghyll and Fusedale. With regard to the walks up these dales we can but repeat the advice given under the Windermere Section (p. 78), viz., to ramble up the valley as far as one feels inclined, and to ramble back by the way one likes best. We shall confine ourselves to one of these glen walks — Grisedale Tarn — not because the others. are inferior in beauty or interest, though Grisedale is, in the- opinion of competent judges, the finest of the Ullswater valleys, but because it forms part of a popular pass for pedestrians between Ullswater and Grasmere. Grisedale Tarn. [See also Windermere Section, p. 86.) From the steamer pier follow the road to Patterdale village- till a beck is crossed. Immediately after passing the bridge, and a little short of the church, a path leads to the right up Grisedale to Grisedale Tarn [see p. 86), A good deal of freedom maybe permitted as to choice of path, side of stream, etc. The route is shut in to the right and left by lofty moun- tain spurs, and one cannot well miss one's way, unless one climbs out of it. The fine mountain on the left is St. Sunday Crag, a dependency of Fairfield, which overlooks the head of the Pass. Almost in front are the precipices of Dollywaggon. and Eagle Crag, and on the right are, first, the rounded, wooded spurs of Striding Edge, then the grand declivity of the Edge itself. From Grisedale Tarn (1,758 feet above sea level) — wind, vigour and weather permitting — the return, should be made over St. Sunday Crag [see p. 139). It is- well to remember, however, that it is a stiff grind from the head of the pass up to Deepdale Hause, and that St. Sun- day Crag [see Outline Guide, p. 6 7) is a mountain to be respected. Two other very fine walks from Patterdale are — 1. To take the steamer to Howtown and return by the margin of the lake, rounding Hallin Fell and reaching the lake shore again at Sandwick. From this point the mass of Helvellyn forms an impressive background to a charming- prospect of lake and woodland. 2. To take the steamer to Howtown and return, diverging to the left a httle beyond Martindale Church, by Bannerdale? Lakes. 35 G. P. Abraham. STYBARROW CRAG, ULLSWATER. 3^ \_Keswick. GOIVBARROW—AIRA FORCE 133 or by the next route to the left, up Boardale, and so over Boar- dale Hause (1,260 ft.). The mountain background from the summit of the hause is superb, and at our feet is all the love- liness of Patterdale. On no account should these routes be taken the reverse way. Walking thus, one turns one's back on the finest of the scenery. On the steamer it is easy to look over the stern. Indeed, in our opinion, the many changing beauties of the head of Ullswater are better seen on the voyage down the lake than when approaching from Pooley Bridge. One can, however, of course walk out from Patterdale as far as Sandwick or Howtown instead of taking the steamer, returning by Boardale Hause, and this route has much to ■commend it. The entire round is not much over twelve miles. Gowbarrow Park and Aira Force. Miss Martineau, than whom no one had a better acquaint- .ance with the Lakes, recommended a sail to these beauty spots, and we cordially endorse her dictum. " As soon as -the visitor is afloat," she says, " the beauties of Ullswater open upon him — the great Place Fell occupying the whole space to the right ; and Stybarrow Crag, precipitous and wooded, shoots up on the left-hand bank. ... At the first bend the boat draws to shore below Lyulph's Tower, an ivy- covered httle castle, built for a shooting-box by the late Duke of Norfolk ; it stands on the site of a real old tower, named, it is said, after the Ulf, or L'Ulf, the first Baron of Greystoke, -who gave its name to the lake. Some, however, insist that its real name is Wolf's Tower." On August 9, 1906, Gowbarrow Fell and Aira Force were handed over to the nation, and declared open to the public by the Right Hon. J. W. Lowther, Speaker of the House of Commons. This lovely tract of 750 acres was purchased by the National Trust for the Preservation of Places of Historic Interest and Natural Beauty, from Mr. Henry Howard, of Greystoke Castle, for the sum of ;^i2,8oo, subscribed by 1,600 persons of all classes. Owing mainly to the untiring exer- tions of Miss Octavia Hill and Canon H. D. Rawnsley, the total sum was collected within the short space of two years. Aira Force is considered by many tourists the finest fall in the district, and though in our opinion it is not equal either to Scale Force or to Dalegarth Force, there is much to be said for their contention. The approach and the surroundings, woodland and park, are delightful. The force itself makes a leap of some sixty feet sheer between precipitous walls of crock, and when in full volume is really impressive. Wooden 134 A IRA FORCE bridges span the gorge above and below, adding to or' de- tracting from — according to the taste of the visitor — the picturesqueness of the ravine. Aira Force has its tragedy, legendary rather than historic, immortalized by Wordsworth in his poem, The Somnambulist. Once upon a time, so the story runs, a knight loved a fair lady,, a daughter of one of the Lords Greystoke. He sallied forth ta prove himself worthy of her love, according to the pleasant custom of those days, by making other maidens fatherless and their mothers- widows. He succeeded in his wishes and won great glory ; but he was a long time away, and his sweetheart, though she rejoiced at his fame, heard so much of his efforts on behalf of other damsels, that she began to doubt his truth to her. At last he returned, and, arriving in the night, made his way to this ravine with the intention of resting under the holly, which had been their trysting- place, till the morning. But the suspense had affected the maiden's health, and induced a habit of sleep-walking, her nocturnal rambles terminating at this identical tree, the leaves of which she was in the habit of plucking and casting into the fall. When the knight reached the spot, she stood in a dangerous position ; and doubting whether it was herself or her ghost — for there were ghosts in those days — he put out his hand to settle the question, and — "The soft touch snapped the thread Of slumber — shrieking, back she fell, And the stream whirled her down the dell, Along its foaming bed. In plunged the knight ! When on firm ground The rescued maiden lay, Her eyes grew bright with blissful light, Confusion passed away. She heard, ere to the throne of grace Her faithful spirit flew. His voice — beheld his speaking face, And, dying from his own embrace, She felt that he was true." Returning to the boat, we can row across the lake to Bleawick Bay, at the foot of Place Fell. Landing here, we follow the path along the fell-side, commanding excellent views, marred, however, by the Greenside mines. To the left of these are Helvellyn, Fairfield, and other fells of lesser altitude, and farther still is Kirkstone Pass, guarded by Caudale Moor and Red Screes. Continuing the walk round the head of the lake, we cross the Goldrill, and so re-enter Patterdale. As a carriage expedition, Aira Force can either be takecb separately or included in Excursion 6 {see p. 131). ULLSWATER 135 ULLSWATER. There is a constant service of steamers up and down the lake between Pooley Bridge and Patterdale, caHing at. Howtown on the way. From Pooley Bridge there is a. regular service of conveyances to and from Penrith, on the- L. and N.W.R, main line and the Cockermouth, Keswick and Penrith Railway. Single, is. 6d. ; return, 25. Steamer Fares. Single. Return. ISt. 2nd. ISt. 2nd. Pooley Bridge to Howtown . Howtown to Patterdale . Pooley Bridge to Patterdale Patterdale to Howtown . Howtown to Pooley Bridge . Patterdale to Pooley Bridge i/- 1/6 2/- 1/6 i/- 2/- -/9 i/- 1/6 i/- -/9 1/6 1/6 2/- 3/- 2/- 1/6 3/- 1/3 1/6 2/- 1/6 1/3 2/- Return tickets are available for day of issue only, except those issued on Saturday, which are available for return on the following Monday or Tuesday. Children half-price ; bicycles e>d. On Thursdays and Saturdays afternoon cheap tickets are issued' from Penrith at about half the regular rates. Coaches from Pooley Bridge to Penrith do not undertake to- catch the connection at Penrith for Keswick. Ullswater, smaller than Windermere but larger than any other Enghsh lake, lies amid majestic mountains. It is of irregular figure, roughly resembling the letter Z, and com- posed of three unequal reaches. The shortest is seen from the hotel at Patterdale, and is not half the length of the others. The total length is over eight miles ; the breadth varies from half a mile to close on a mile ; the depth is 210 feet, ranking after Windermere (237 ft.) and Wastwater (270 ft.). It combines a great variety of attractions, portions of its- banks possessing the sylvan beauty of Windermere, while the mountain masses at its head are scarcely inferior to those- of Wastwater. Wordsworth wrote : "In order to see the lower part of the lake to advantage, it is necessary to go round by Pooley Bridge, and to ride at least three miles along the Westmor- land side of the water, towards Martindale. The views,, especially if you ascend from the road into the fields, are- magnificent." 136 ULLSWATER The coach passes through Pooley Bridge to the landing- place for the steamers. The voyage down the lake occupies about an hour. The conical wood-clad hill close to the pier is Dun Mallet. " Dun Mallet, . , . where once there stood, A Roman fortress, built of yore, To guard Ullswater's narrow shore." On the east shore is Barton Fell, and behind it Moor Divock (i,o6i ft.), an extensive plateau on which are several cromlechs, •cairns, and stone circles. A low hill between Barton Fell and the lake was, according to the Rev. Mr. Machel, the site of " the ancient and noble fortification called Trestermont, or Tristermount," the abode of Sir Tristram, one of the Knights of the Round Table. Eusemere Villa, near the foot of the lake, easily distinguished by its slated roof, was once the residence of Clarkson, of negro-emancipation fame, who was frequently visited here by William Wilberforce. The steamer next calls at Howtown [Hcwtown Hotel), .approaching which we see to the south some points of the High Street range. Howtown is the central fishing station on the lake. The hotel is comfortable, and there are three or four good lodging-houses. The dale is noted for its black cherries, and some years ago " Cherry Sundays " were an institution at which people from all parts of the two counties attended. Howtown is the nearest point for pedestrians visiting High Street and Hawes Water. To the west atten- tion is attracted by the wooded slopes of Hallin Fell (1,271 ft.), on the summit of which is a monument to Lord Brougham. A stone seat on the south of the cairn commands a mag- nificent prospect of the hills and lake. Near the fell is a •precipitous crag, jutting into the lake, and crowned by a few- stunted bushes. It is known as the Kail Pot, on account of a round hole in its face, just above the edge of the water. A zig-zag road up the fell leads from Howtown to Martindale ■Church, about a thousand feet above sea-level, one of the loftiest churches in the kingdom. Access to the deer forest at Martindale is forbidden. Leaving Howtown, we see, on the opposite shore and looking up the middle reach of the lake, Hallsteads, once the residence of Archbishop Tait, then Bishop of Carlisle. It is situated on Skelly Nab, the point which juts out into the lake at the commencement of the second reach. The rest of ULLSWA TER—HEL VELL YN 137 the voyage is beautiful in the extreme. The bulky mass of Place Fell (2,154 ft.) shuts out the view to the left, but in front and to the right are richly wooded shores leading up into lovely dales, whilst over all frowns Helvellyn, an imposing background. The pointed cone somewhat to the north of the almost level summit is Catchedicam ; and a little to the south a sharp peak marks the end of Striding Edge. Silver Point, immediately below Place Fell, is the division between the second and third reaches of the lake, Glencoin, with its park and fell, marking the change of direction on the other bank. In this glen are some cottages, very properly named Seldom Seen ; and a little stream running through it divides the counties of Westmorland and Cumberland. Stybarrow Dodd (2,756 ft.) forms the background, and Sty- barrow Crag, a little cliff with stunted trees in its crevices, the foreground of the picture. It was here that one of the Mounseys, of Patterdale Hall, obtained the title " King of Patterdale,' for his gallantry in repulsing, with the aid of a few villagers, an invasion of Scottish moss-troopers. Away to the left, St. Sunday Crag, the Ullswater mountain, presents a noble front. Some distance beyond its foot we can trace the commencement of Kirkstone Pass, flanked to the north by Red Screes. THE FELLS (ULLSWATER SECTION). Helvellyn. {See Outline Guide (i), p. 66). The popular vote is for Helvellyn. No able-bodied person •who goes to the Lakes seems to be quite content unless he has made the ascent, so that we feel bound to devote some- . what more space to this mountain than to others whose merit, in our opinion, is greater. Helvellyn, in return for the com- pliment, proves himself the most accommodating of fells. The ascents from Keswick, Grasmere and Ambleside have been indicated elsewhere [see p. 126 and p. 108 respectively). From Patterdale the routes of ascent are : — By the pony track, ascending by Glenridding and the Lead Mines round Keppel Cove Tarn (1,825 ft.) from Grise;lale Tarn (1,768 ft.), and over Dollywaggon Pike — a rather long round. Or by either Swirrel or Striding Edge. The path on Striding Edge is narrow, between two precipices, but 138 HELVELLYN there is no danger whatever for anyone who can walk steadily. The step-of^ from Helvellyn down to Striding Edge is nasty, but the worst part of the ridge is its reputation. In any case and anywhere, should the tourist feel giddy, it is better to rest, or, failing that, to go back. There is nothing more to be ashamed of in giddiness than in sea-sickness. Swirrel Edge also requires care, and there is one quite awkward little bit near the upper end. Ponies cannot ascend by these routes far beyond Red Tarn, 2,356 ft. above sea-level. Helvellyn is supposed to have been the sacred hill of the early inhabitants of the district. Some authorities beUeve it to have been originally the Hill of Baal, or El-VeUn, sa Helvellyn. Readers of Scott and Wordsworth will remember the poems recalling the fatal accident which happened to Mr. Gough, when attempting in winter time to ascend Striding Edge. The faithful dog watched by his master's body for three months until the remains were discovered. In a little work entitled The Dog of Helvellyn, Canon Rawns- ley has laboured to establish not only the traditional story but the identical breed of the dog, and in 1890 he and Miss Frances Power Cobbe erected a monument to the memory of that animal " in order to mark the spot where the accident occurred," The View from Helvellyn is very extensive. Facing east, at our feet is the Red Tarn, flanked by Striding and Swirrel Edges. Be- yond is a portion of Ullswater and on the horizon are the Pen- nine fells. Turning north, to the left, the masses of Saddleback and Skiddaw close the prospect. To the left of these, over Bassen- thwaite Lake, appears the Solway, with the Dumfriesshire hills beyond. Then come the Grassmoor and Newlands fells. The graceful peak of Grisedale Pike may serve as a guide. Almost due west is the Honister Pass, with the Buttermere fells, seen end on, beyond. Next the Pillar stands out boldly, and a little farther down the square head of Great Gable is unmistakable. Just beyond one may catch a peep of the sea. South of this Scafell Piices assert their pre-eminence. Still turning, the shapely peak of Bowfell gives another landmark, from which Crinkle Crags lead the eye to the Coniston Fells, falling steeply to Coniston Lake. The conspicuous points between us and Crinkle Crags are the Lang- dale Pikes, and beyond them is Black Combe. In the open space to the left of Coniston are Windermere and Esthwaite Water, with Morecambe Bay beyond. Facing nearly south, Fairfield and Red Screes block the view. To the left of them, in the far distance, is the flat top of Ingleborough. Nearer at hand is the cone of III Bell, from which the long level High Street Range trends eastward, Kidsty Pike being about the only shapely eminence. The little tarn that is seen on the broken line of fells that run down from High THE FELLS {ULLSWATER SECTION) 139^ Street towards Place Fell is Angle Tarn, not to be confused with the Angle Tarn on Bowfell. St. Sunday Crag. {See Outline Guide (i), p. 66) The ascent should be made by following the path to Grise— dale Tarn, with the rivulet on the right,, till, just beyond a beck running down from St. Sunday Crag, a track goes zigzagging:, up the fell side. This leads to a depression from which a. brief ascent to the right takes us to the summit of the Crag. The view comprises the best portions of Ullswater at our feet. To the right and left, as we face west, are the precipices of Fairfield and the Helvellyn range, and, away beyond, the long, line of fells that run from Scafell Pike by the Bowfell range- to Coniston. Place Fell. Place Fell is as pleasant an afternoon ramble as any in the- neighbourhood of Ullswater. The summit is most easily reached from Boardale Hause, striking to the left up the fell, side. Place Fell commands delightful near views of the glens that adorn the head of Ullswater. Helvellyn is seen at its best, and Fairfield stands up grandly. Away to the north are Saddleback and Skiddaw. From the summit Howtown may be reached by dropping down diagonally into Boardale- as indicated on the map, or a return may be made to Patter- dale by following the ridge line towards Hallin Fell. When the slope steepens, by keeping down to the left in the direction of Scalehow Beck a broad grass track will be found which joins the lakeside route between Patterdale and Howtown. close to Sandwick. HA WES WATER. Hawes Water is, in a sense, of the Lake District proper, yet not in it. It is easily accessible from Shap by Rosghyll,. or, preferably for pedestrians, by Swindale, and it is within an easy drive of Penrith ; but to visit the lake from either Ullswater or Windermere, returning the same evening,, entails a full day's outing. From Windermere the way lies up Kentmere and over the Nan Bield Pass ; from Patterdale the High Street range- has either to be rounded or crossed either by Fusedale and Weather Hill from Howtown ; by Boardale Hause, Angle Tarn, and Kidsty Pike ; or by Hartsop and Hayeswater over High Street. The best approach is from Shap. The first view of the lake is very attractive. Naddle Forest: 140 HAWES WATER— HIGH STREET "Clothes the south-eastern shore, with Wallow Crag in strong, rugged contrast, rising from its midst. As we proceed below High Street we come to a delightful series of little falls where Measand Beck comes tumbling down the fell side. In front Harter Fell presents a striking front ; above us, on the right, •are High Street and Kidsty Pike, sending down a long spur which seems to cut the valley in two. At the head of the lake is a church, well worth looking into, which disputes with Was- dale Church — and others — the honour of being the smallest in England. A little farther and we find rest and refresh- ment at the Dun Bull. High Street. {See Outline Guide [k), p. 67) From Mardale (p. 184) the easiest ascent of the High Street crange is by Kidsty Pike. More attractive are the routes by Measand Beck, or between Small Water (1,484 ft.) and Blea Water ; but the former entails a journey down the lake of two ■miles, and the latter crosses some rather awkward, craggy .ground. For Kidsty Pike it is necessary to return a short dis- tance towards Hawes Water until the stream [Riggindale Beck) beyond the church is passed. Following the channel up- Avards for a short distance, we cross another, Randale Beck, by a footbridge. From this point our course lies upwards to the right, occasionally over somewhat broken ground, which is best negotiated by keeping somewhat to the right. From the summits of the High Street range fine views are obtained in the direction of the Eden Valley and thePennines. Towards the Lake District — westwards — the prospect is alluring ; we want to see more of what is beyond. Saddleback and Skiddaw stand up finely to the north ; Helvellyn and Harter Fell show to advantage ; the eastern side of the 111 Bell range falls towards Kentmere with striking abruptness. Still we have a bit of Windermere here, a peep of the Butter- mere Fells there, and so forth. The tourist will be well ad- vised to follow the summit line southward to Thornthwaite Crag {see p. 104), easily distinguishable by its columnar •cairn. Any extra exertion will be more than compensated by the view. From Thornthwaite Crag a return can be made rto Mardale by the Nan Bield Pass. The route between Blea Water and Small Water cannot be generally recommended. G. P. Abiaham,] [Keswick. STRIDING EDGE, HELVELLYN. G. P. Abraham,] DUNMAIL RAISE. 37 [Keswick. L.. 38 THE WESTERN DISTRICT. OF this wild and beautiful region a great part is acces- sible only to the pedestrian. Incidentall}^, it may- be observed that the entire resident population of this part of Lakeland would not overcrowd Ambleside Church. If the proposed new road from Little Langdale over Wrynose and Hard Knott passes becomes an accomplished fact, this westerr^ district will gain some of the renown it deserves. The Western District comprises : — I. Eskdale, with Bowfell, Crinkle Crags, and the fells that bound the valley to the west and south. II. Wasdale, with the Screes, Scafell, Great Gable, Kirk- fell, and Red Pike. III. Ennerdale, with the Pillar Fell and Steeple, etc. These mountains are all more easily ascended from Was- dale, but they really belong to Ennerdale, which also has a strong claim on Great Gable, Eskdale is connected with the coast by the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, a narrow-gauge line running from Ravenglass to- Boot, a picturesque course of seven and a quarter miles. At the time of writing, however, the hne has been temporarily closed for passenger traffic. From Eskdale Green a road runs south, joining that from Boot to Ulpha Bridge near Devoke Water, a tarn more than half a mile long, famous for its red trout, unsurpassed in the district for size and flavour, A rocky islet upon it is the home of a colony of sea-birds, known as^ "Devoke Water mews," whose screams and grotesque gyra- tions on the approach of strangers are very amusing. The lake is the feeder of a small tributary of the Esk, the Lin Beck, on which are some pretty cascades. A little to the south-west of the tarn, and near the bank of the river, are some ruins known as the city of Barnscar, variously attributed to Britons, . Romans, Danes, and Saxons. Tradition has it that the- 141 J. .142 BOOT— STANLEY GHYLL *' city " was a settlement of the Danes ; that they " gathered for inhabitants the lads of Drigg and the lasses of Becker- met," two villages on the coast to the north of the Esk ; .and that thence arose a local proverb, " Let us go together like the lads of Drigg and the lasses of Beckermet." The Esk rises on the higher slopes of Great End, and runs into the sea near Ravenglass, where with the lyt and Mite^ it widens into an estuary, the northern boundary of which ds formed by Drigg Point. Boot. -Hotels. — See Introduction. Boot is a good place at which to spend a summer holiday. "The air is pure, and the village close to the grand scenery in and around Wastwater and Eskdale. Two good fishing rivers, the Esk and the Mite, flow through the neighbourhood, ■ and the Irt and Calder are not far away. A licence to angle for salmon in these streams may readily be obtained. Near the village is a pretty fall, the water tumbling over rocks for 3, considerable distance. The waterfall and the old corn jnill, with its overflow water wheel, near the rustic stone bridge over the stream, are favourite subjects for artists. There are two other " forces " in the neighbourhood. One, Birker Force, on a beck of the same name, has its source in a small tarn on the western declivity of Birker Fell, and, after a course of little over a mile, tumbles over the fell into the Esk about a mile south-east of Boot. The cataract is sixty "feet high, but its surroundings are somewhat tame. Stanley Ghyll, or Dalegarth Force, •a little to the west of Birker Force, is the finest in this part of the country. It is romantically situated in a deep and thickly-wooded ravine, and is visited by most tourists when at Boot, from which place it is about half an hour's easy walk. The road turns off on the left at the village school, near Dalegarth Hall, an interesting old place, the ceiling of 'One of the rooms bearing the date 1599. The stream issues from a deep cleft in a perpendicular rock, and leaps at a bound into a pool sixty-two feet beneath. There are in all four falls in the glen ; from the last the water runs with great force ^long its narrow channel. The beck rises on the edge of UPPER ESKDALE—WASTWATER 143 Birker Moor, across which runs the direct path from Boot to Ulpha Bridge ; the fall is, on that account, sometimes spoken of as Birker Force. From this path, a little above the fall, the view up Eskdale is very fine indeed. The Stanley Ghyll Hotel (Co-operative Holidays Association), at no great distance from the fall, is a boon to anglers. EXCURSIONS FROM BOOT. Upper Eskdale. We follow the carriage road for Hardknott Pass, past the Woolpack Inn, and across the Esk till, just before the ground commences to rise towards the pass, a lane to the ieft leads by Butterelkeld Farm into the upper valley. Turn- ing our backs to the rocky summit of Harter Fell (2,140 ft.), which has been conspicuous on our right throughout the walk, we follow the left bank of the Esk. Bowfell appears in front, to the right are the scars of Hardknott, and across the stream Heron Crag and other outlying buttresses of Scafell shut in the valley. A well-marked track leads to Esk Falls, a pretty series of cascades. Here the stream should be crossed by a bridge, and the main channel followed. After about a mile, on Tounding a spur of Yeastyrigg Crags, Scafell Pike (3,210 ft.) ■comes dramatically into view. It springs almost its entire height from the valley and looks a mountain, aye, every inch a mountain, and one of which Englishmen m.ay be proud. All here is very wild and desolate. Across the valley Cam Spout, a rugged spur of Scafell, shuts out the Mickledore Chasm. There is a fine waterfall on Cam Spout, which is worth visiting, and the energetic may climb to the top of the Mickledore Ridge, between Scafell and the Pike, for the sake of viewing the grand Scafell Crags. The return is made under the buttress of Scafell and Slight Side. There is not much trace of a path here, but what there is always seems to lead all parties with surprising unanimity and certainty to the Woolpack Inn. Wastwater by Irton Fell, returning by Burnmoor; We proceed to Eskdale Green or Irton Road, and, after crossing Miterdale, take a good fell path over the lower hills that extend from the Screes. On crossing the ridge line we have one of what may almost be called the " regu- lation " surprise views the Lake District constantly affords. Wastwater is below us, smiHng and sullen, the foot of // 144 BOWFELL—WA SDALE the lake all broidered with dainty foliage, the head over- shadowed by stern, rugged mountains. A descent is made to Strands {Inn), and thence by the lakeside to Wasdale Head. From the Wastwaier Hotel an unmistakable track leads over the depression between Scafell and the Screes, past Burnmoor Tarn (852 feet). Some recommend that this expedition should be taken the reverse way, on account of the fine view of the Pillar range with Kirkfell ; but Wastwater should be first approached from its foot, and the mountain prospect can be enjoyed without much loss by looking back during the ascent of the Burnmoor track. Bowfell. (See Outline Guide [e), p. 62). Proceed as for Upper Eskdale as far as Esk Falls, and then, instead of crossing the bridge, walk up some long grassy slopes, keeping the falls and Lingcove Beck on the left hand, till the depression between Shelter Crags and Bowfell, con- taining the Three Tarns (four in number), is reached. From thence the route is straight up to the left, over steep grass and broken boulders, which towards the end becomes almost all boulder and very little grass. Bowfell is, like Great Gable, splendid to look at and splen- did to look from. It commands the three valleys of Dunner- dale, Eskdale, and Langdale. Owing to the presence of magnetic rock, the compass — the rambler's great stand-by in storm and cloud — is erratic at places on the Bowfell range. This fact should be borne in mind, and no risks taken. To the west the Scafell group, with the Mickledore Chasm, is grandly seen, with Great Gable a little north of it, partially con- cealed behind Great End. Far away, over the western sea, we can distinguish the Isle of Man. To the north we look along Langstratb and Borrowdale to Grassmoor and the adjacent fells, with Saddle- back and Skiddaw on the northern horizon. Between these we catch a glimpse of the Solway, with the Dumfriesshire hills beyond. On the other side of Langdale are the Langdale Pikes, somewhat dwarfed from our lofty position ; and in the distance the long range of Helvellyn and Fairfield, with peeps of High Street. To the south the wild Crinkle Crags, affording the finest a)id roughest ridge walk in the District, lead the eye to the Coniston Fells, which fall into the plain embracing Esthwaite and Windermere. WASDALE. The best approach to Wasdale is from the west, as those who come from this direction have the advantage of seeing^ the lake at its best. The district is entered at the hamlet of Strands. Visitors will be well advised to ramble about the 39 i ■ 40 WASDALE ^ 145 charmingly wooded lower end of the lake. Hawl Ghyll, at the lower end of the Screes, is, moreover, well worth exploring for a distance. It is singular and pretty. The amateur geologist will delight himself by securing a specimen of spicular iron ore. A little east of Hawl Ghyll the great western bastion of the Screes gives indication of the wildness and majesty we are about to enter. Before leaving this end of the lake, the visitor should inquire for the Crooky from which one of the best views of the Screes and the lake is obtainable. The Screes extend the whole length of the southerly shore of the lake. The summits are bare crags, the sides crumbhng dSbris of a slaty and granitic nature, " streaked with brilliant hues of red and brown, like the changing colours of a pigeon's neck." Here and there huge rocks, fallen from above, rest on slopes in such positions as to suggest that the slightest touch will send them into the lake, and, indeed, considerable rock-falls have taken place quite recently. The track along the shore of the lake at the foot of the Screes is practicable, but not advisable, being very rough and boulder-strewn. As we approach Wasdale Head the scenery increases in sternness and grandeur. In front are the Scafell masses, the gully-seamed Pikes' Crag, a little below and on our side of the summit cairn, standing up prominently. To our left, overlook- ing the Stye, is Great Gable, perhaps the most perfect mountain form in England, with Kirkfell next, and then the ridge of Yewbarrow, looking like a sharp pike, with portions of the Pillar range. Wasdale Head itself is full of reminiscences of the Ritsons, who have for centuries been associated with the valley. William Ritson was an opponent of Professor Wilson in a wresthng bout, scoring two falls to one. " Chris- topher North," however, was an adversary by no means to be despised, and he beat Ritson in jumping. Wasdale Head boasts the highest mountain, the deepest lake, and the smallest church in England, i.e. one of the several " smallest churches " in England. The roof is remarkable, being said to be partly formed of the hull of a Norse galley. The legend is more likely due to the timber being brought from the wood- lands at the lower end of the lake by raft or galley. Walking around Wasdale Head is circumscribed by steep fell-sides and intersected by stone walls. Nevertheless some pleasant rambles may be taken, both along the road and up English Lakes {k) 146 SCAFELL the glens. Eskdale may also be visited [see p. 143). Boating is to be had on the lake at is. the first hour, and 6d. every other hour ; and the angler will find some sport. Never- theless, Wasdale Head is essentially a centre for hill-walkers and cUmbers. Scafell Pikes ^ and Scafell. [See Outline Guide [e), pp. 62 -3.) The ascent of the Pike from Wasdale Head is most easily made by crossing the new bridge at the bottom of the wali which leads over the shoulder of Lingmell to Brown Tongue. For Scafell, the route to the foot of the Screes should be taken, branching off from the Burnmoor track to the left and so over Green How. The summit of England may be called Scafell Pike (3,210 ft.) or convenience. Formerly the tops of its buttresses were called " The Pikes " simply, and it is only comparatively recently that they have borrowed a name from their formidable neighbour. The name, therefore, means *' The Pikes near Scafell." Scafell (3,162 ft.), which must not be confused with Scafell Pike, can be ascended either from Boot by the long southern slope, or from Wasdale by the western shoulder. The northern and eastern faces are not to be thought of, though the northern face can be turned by a long, arduous and steep scree shoot, Lord's Rake, which is the best way available for those who wish to pass from Scafell Pike to Scafell. Great care is recommended, as several fatal accidents have occurred on this mountain. 'View from Scafell Pike. — Southward in the immediate foregroimd is the magnificent Scafell precipice. Beyond is the Isle of Man and far, far away the Moume Mountains in Ireland are occasionally visible. Turning due south, beyond the Duddon Sands and Black Combe, one may discern the Welsh Camedds, and then, quite close, Bowfell with Crinkle Crags, and the Coniston Fells. Still turning to our left we catch a glimpse of Windermere. The flat-topped' fell farther away is Ingleborough in Yorkshire, and the sharp cone nearer is 111 Bell. Eastward is the long Fairfield and Helvellyn range, with peeps of High Street and Kidsty Pike beyond ; the mountain seen through the gap is St. Sunday Crag. Saddleback and Skiddaw and a strip of Derwentwater below are on the northern horizon. Immediately in front in this direction, Great Gable rises magnificently. The cone beyond is Grisedale Pike, with Grassmoor and the Buttermere fells nearer at hand. Next comes the Pillar Range, and next a bit of Wastwater. Away over the sea to the ^ 1 In dissyllabic names in the Lake District the accent is generally on the first syllable, e.g. Seattle, Skiddtv, Boxt-ncse, ; not, Scsfell, Skidjiau; Bowmss^ SCAFELL , 147 north-west the Galloway hills are sometimes visible, and beyond them Ailsa Crag, in the Firth of Clyde, has been seen. The view from Scafell is similar, except that the)Pikes^lock out much of the prospect to the north. J^On the other hand, Ve can see Wastwater to much greater advantage. Wordsworth has left the following description of a visit to the summit of Scafell Pikes : — " Having left Rosthwaite, in Borrowdale, on a bright morning in the first week in October, we ascended from Seathwaite to the top of the ridge called Esk Hause, and thence beheld three distinct views. On one side the continuous vale of Borrowdale, Keswick, and Bassenthwaite, with Skiddaw, Helvellyn, Saddleback, and numerous other mountains, and, in the distance, the Solway Firth and the mountains of Scotland ; on the other side, and below us, the Langdale Pikes, their own vale below them, Windermere, and far beyond Windermere, Ingleborough, in Yorkshire. But how shall I speak of the deliciousness of the third prospect ? At this time that was most favoured by sunshine and shade. The green vale of Esk — deep and green, with its glittering serpent stream — lay below us ; and on we looked to the mountains near the sea, Black Combe pre-eminent, and, still beyond, to the sea itself, in dazzling brightness. Turning round, we saw the mountains of Wasdale in tumult ; to the right Great Gable, the loftiest, a dis- tinct and huge form, though the middle of the mountain was, to our eyes, at its base. " We had attained the object of this journey ; but our ambition now mounted higher. We saw the simamit of Scafell, apparently very near to us ; and we shaped our course towards it. But, dis- covering that it could not be reached without first making a con- siderable descent, we resolved, instead, to aim at another point of the same mountain, called the Pike, which I have since found has been estimated as higher than the summit bearing the name of Scafell Head, where the Stone Man ^ is built. " The sun had never once been overshadowed by a cloud dinring the whole of our progress from the centre of Borrowdale. On the summit of the pike, which we gained after much toil, though without difficulty, there was not a breath of air to stir even the papers containing our refreshments as they lay spread out upon a rock. The stillness seemed to be not of this world. We paused and kept silence to listen, and no soimd could be heard ; the Scafell cataracts were voiceless to us, and there was not an insect to hiun in the air. " 1 ought to have mentioned that round the top of Scafell Pike not a blade of grass is to be seen. Cushions or tufts of moss, parched and brown, appear between the huge blocks and stones that lie in heaps on all sides to a great distance, like skeletons or bones of the earth not needed at the creation, and there left to be covered with never-dying lichens, which the clouds and dews nourish, and adorned with colours of vivid and exquisite beauty. Flowers, the most brilliant feathers, and even gems, scarcely sur- 1 The term " man " (Celtic, " mawn ") is applied to the piles of stoaes erected •n the tops of most of the heights in the Lake District. 148 GREAT GABLE—ENNERDALE pass in colouring some of those masses of stone which no human eye beholds, except the shepherd or traveller be led thither by curiosity ; and how seldom must this happen." Visitors to Scafell Pike are recommv ended to return to Wasdale by Great End and Stye Head. The going over the Pikes is in parts rough, but the view from Great End of Great Gable, Derwentwater and Borrowdale will more than recompense the fatigue. Great Gable. {See Outline Guide (/), p. 62,.) This beautiful mountain is best ascended by walking up to the Stye head, from which the ascent can be made direct, or one can continue to Stye Head Tarn (1,430 feet) and ascend by Aaron Slack and Wind Gap. In matter of time there is not much to choose. The descent is best made by Wind Gap. The view from Great Gable is superb. To the south the Scafell group cuts off the distant scenery, but we can afford to sacrifice distance to such a splendid foreground. Bowfell stands up finely beyond Esk Pike. Away to the east, beyond Allen Crags and the High Raise fells, are the High Street, Fairfield and Helvellyn ranges. A little to the left of Bowfell we have a peep of Windermere, with the Yorkshire fells beyond. To the north the eye travels up Bor- rowdale to Saddleback and Skiddaw, and so round by Grisedale Pike to the Grassmoor fells. Near at hand are the JButtermere fells, with Robinson and the Newlands fells beyond. Under Grass- moor we can see Crummock Water. Next comes the wild and lonely valley of Ennerdale, with the lake filling in the middle dis- tance, and to our left the grand front of Pillar Fell, with the famous rock prominent below the summit of the main mass. Again, to the left of the Pillar range is Wastwater, flanked by the Screes. A grand mountain commanding grand views is Great Gable. ENNERDALE. Ennerdale is more difficult of access than Wasdale, and long may it so remain. The nearest stations are Rowrah (4 miles) and Woodend (7 miles), from which a comfortable conveyance will take visitors to the Anglers' Inn, at the foot of Ennerdale Lake (formerly Broadwater). The chief driving excursions from the Anglers' Inn are to Calder Abbey {see p. 170), Lowes Water and Buttermere. The proprietor of the inn holds the exclusive boating and fishing rights on the lake and the becks running into it. The walking is even more circumscribed than in Wasdale. Scale Force and Buttermere can be reached by Floutem Tarn {see p. 157), but the best plan is to row up the lake G. P. Abraham,] [Keswick. SUMMIT OF SCAFELL PIKE, FROM THE NORTH. F. Frith & Co., Ltd..] MICKLEDORE CHASM, SCAFELL. Lakes. ^i- [Rciga te. 42 PILLAR FELL 149 and wander about the head of the valley. Towards the head of the lake the Steeple shows a noble front. Next to it the Pillar towers magnificently, and at the head of the dale Great Gable looks superb. Between these two moun- tains Kirkfell sends down some fine crags. The walking at the extreme head of the valley is vexatious, owing to the glacier mounds. Pillar Fell. [See Outline Guide [d), p. 61.) The Pillar Rock (formerly Pillar Stone) is on the north face of the fell. It was thought inaccessible until 1826, when an adventurous cooper succeeded in climbing it. If we are to beUeve Wordsworth's well-known lines from The Brothers, a previous ascent had been made with disastrous results. It is probable, however, that Wordsworth confused the rock with Ash Crag, nearer Black Sail Pass. Since 1826 the rock has been climbed repeatedly, but the ascent, even by the easiest route, is for cragsmen only. Many tourists wish, however, to see this famous rock. It is well viewed, especially by telescope, from Scarf Gap or the Gables and from Ennerdale itself, provided one does not get too close under the fellside. Those who wish to visit the rock may do so from the top of Pillar Fell by a steep descent which requires care. This leads to the upper portion of the rock. The base may be reached by a circuitous scramble to the east, but the attempt is to be deprecated. A descent by the crags to the west of the rock is not to be thought of. The high level route from Looking- stead direct to the rock is for mountaineers only. Pillar Fell is almost always ascended from Black Sail {see p. 156), and by this route strong walkers may save time by leaving the pass at Gatherstone Head, the mound just beyond where the beck is crossed on the ascent from Wasdale, and striking straight up Lookingstead to the wire fence. All the other routes are laborious. Nevertheless the ascent from Gillerthwaite, in Ennerdale, is to be recommended, if only for the fine views of the Steeple. This mountain and the Wasdale Red 'Pike can be included in the Pillar Fell expedition without undue fatigue, and very well worth a visit they are. The view from Pillar Fell has been much neglected. It is splendid. Right at our feet is Ennerdale, bounded by Great Gable to the east and the fine screes of the Buttermere Fells to the north. Be- yond these are Robinson, Hindscarth and Dalehead, with Skiddaw and Saddleback in the distance. West of these is the great red mass of Grassmoor, with the adjacent fells. To the east, beyond Great Gable, is the Helvellyn range, and to the south we look down into dreary Mosedale, with the grand background of the Scafell mountains. THE PASSES. VISITORS to Lakeland who find mountain-walking too fatiguing, and yet desire to escape from the often crowded high-roads, may find deUghtful recreation on the passes. At the same time those who are only acquainted with Honister, the Kirkstone, Newlands, Whinlatter, Dun- mail Raise, and even Wrynose and Hardknott, are warned that for the most part the passes are not metalled roads, or even cart-tracks, but mountain paths, some of v/hich are exceed- ingly rough, e.g. the Stye, and Black Sail, and, worst of all, Rossett Ghyll. To Cyclists. Kirkstone Pass, Buttermere Hause, Whin- latter Pass and Dunmail Raise are all rideable. Special attention should, however, be paid to the instructions on PP- 53-7- Honister, Hardknott and Wrynose are negotiable, but the surface is very bad. The descent from the Garburn could be ridden in parts. The others are emphatically not rideable. Many cychsts have carried their machines over the Stye, and even Scarf Gap and Esk Hause, but the game is a thing apart and known as " pass-storming." Following is a list of the principal Passes, showing the manner in which they connect the four sections of Lakeland into which this Guide has, for convenience, been divided : — The Southern Section is connected with the Northern Section by Dunmail Raise (vehicular traffic). Far Easedale and Greenup, and the Stake ; with the Eastern Section by the Kirkstone Pass (vehicular traffic) ; Grisedale Pass ; Scandale and Caistone Glen ; Troutbeck, Thresthwaite Cove, and Pasture Beck ; and the Nan Bield Pass, besides which the Garburn connects Trout- beck and Kentmere ; with the Western Section by Wrynose and Hardknott (vehicular traffic) for Eskdale, Walna Scar for Donnerdale, and Rossett Ghyll and Esk Hause by Stye Head for Wasdale. THE PASSES 151 The Northern Section is connected with the Southern Section by Dunmail Raise (vehicular traffic), Greenup and Far Easedale, and the Stake ; with the Eastern Section by the Sticks (the Helvellyn range can be rounded by rail to Troutbeck, and by carriage vid Matterdale) ; with the Western Section by the Stye, Scarf Gap and Black Sail, Esk Hause, and by the Floutern Tarn route. Within the section are the Honister Pass {see p. 121 ), Butter- mere Hause {see p. 122), the Whinlatter Pass and the Coledale Pass. The Eastern Section is connected with the Southern Section by the Kirkstone Pass (vehicular traffic, see p. 103) ; Grisedale Pass ; Caistone Glen and Scandale ; Pasture Beck, Thresthwaite Cove and Troutbeck ; and the Nan Bield Pass ; with Longsleddale by the Gatescarth Pass. The Western Section is connected with the Southern Section by Hardknott and Wrynose, from Eskdale (vehicular traffic) ; Walna Scar ; by the Stye, Esk Hause and Rossett Ghyll from Wasdale ; with the Northern District by the Stye, by Black Sail and Scarf Gap, and by the Floutern Tarn route. Several of the more important passes are described else- where in connection with Drives or Walks from the various •centres {see Index), and we need only here include the passes not so described. ^ Dunmail Raise. {See p. 87.) Far Easedale and Greenup. The pedestrian can use the road as far as Grasmere, and then strike off north-westward into Far Easedale, which runs far into the hills on the western side of Helm Crag. Up this seldom-visited glen he can ascend laboriously to a narrow level tract of moor, after which he will descend into the Stonethwaite branch of Borrowdale, by Greenup Head, and so northward to Keswick. Care must be taken to go by Far Easedale, not by Easedale — which is on the left soon after quitting the high-road, and easily recognizable by a stream •called Sour Milk Ghyll, flowing from Easedale Tarn — or to 152 THE PASSES turn-down into Wythburn after leaving Far Easedale. There is a finger-post hereabouts and another near Greenup Head. An alternative route is by way of Langdale, which may be reached by any of the routes indicated on pp. 81,97-8. The Stake Pass starts from a sheepfold almost at the foot of Pike o' Stickle and runs up to the right. The path to the left leads by Rossett Ghyll to Esk Hause, for Wasdale. Ascending the Stake, which is always exceedingly wet, the road is on the side of a turbulent stream, which dashes down into Langdale. Half a mile beyond the top of the Stake begins the descent into Borrowdale by the side of the beck, through the valley of Langstrath. Halfway down the vale, the road crosses the river. On the right is a large and curious stone, called Blea Crag.^ Nearer Stonethwaite is the bold rocky elevation of Eagle Crag, on the right. From Stonethv/aite the road to Keswick is by Rosthwaite, in Borrowdale, where are two hotels. Then past the Bowder Stone (nineteen miles), Lodore, and Barrow on the Keswick road. The whole distance of the walk^is twenty- four niiles. Kirkstone Pass. {See p. 103.) Grisedale Pass. {See pp. 60, 127.) Scandale and Caistone Glen. For route as far as High Sweden Bridge see p. 66. A little farther we pass the dry bed of an old tarn. Straight in front the path ascends the hill till a stone wall is reached. There is a stile away on the right in the direction of Red Screes. Crossing this we soon come to the descent into Caistone Glen, which leads down between Red Screes and High Hartsop Dodd to the Kirkstone Pass. Troutbeck, Thresthwaite Cove, and Pasture Beck. For Troutbeck see p. 77. Ascend with the beck on the right to Thresthwaite Cove, the well-marked col between Thornthwaite Crag and Caudale Moor. It is well to rest at the top of the pass for the sake of the view. Behind are the Troutbeck Valley and Windermere ; in front is the head of Ullswater Lake, with fine crag scenery on the left. The Kirkstone Pass is reached just below Brothers' Water. The 1 This is the celebrated Gash Rock, reputed inaccessible by Colonel Barrow and named by him after a guide called Gash. THE PASSES 153 expedition is a little fatiguing, but we recommend it in pre- ference to all others. The Nan Bield Pass from Windermere. Pedestrians may save some fatigue by taking the train to Staveley, but we recommend the inclusion of the Garburn Pass, for the sake of the views of Troutbeck Valley and the surrounding fells. The descent into Kentmere is fine, but the road up that valley to the tarn is far from being a joy. The broken slate used as metal is, tersely put, abomin- able. The head of the Nan Bield Pass is remarkably cleanly cut, and presents a really formidable outline. From the summit of the pass we have a striking view of the precipitous sides of 111 Bell and of Rainsborrow Crag. In front is the soft beauty of Mardale, and at our feet delicious little Small Water. Wrynose and Hardknott. At Fell Foot in Langdale, a little beyond Little Langdale Tarn {see p. 97), we begin the ascent of Wrynose by one of the worst roads practicable for carriages in the district. A scheme is afoot for the entire remaking of the whole route to Eskdale. Several attempts have been made to give the et3^mology of this singular name. Dr. Whittaker says : " It should be Renno's [rex noctis, ' the king of night '), a most appropriate appellation, for at a particular season of the year, when the twilight is very brief, as soon as the sun sinks behind this huge mountain, his shadow is cast in deep gloom over the valley towards the eastward, and speedily settles down upon the whole length of Langdale." Another authority derives the name from " the nose of the rhin (hill)." Reference to the charter of Furness Abbey, however, shows it to have been originally known as Warin's Hause, or Warin's Pass, easily converted into Wrynose. The natives pronounce it " Ray- nus." A probable derivation is " Raven Hause." The Three Shire Stone at the summit marks the spot where the three counties of Cumberland, Westmorland and Lancashire unite. Hence the road descends upon Cockley Beck, where temperance refreshments can be obtained, and, after crossing the valley, begins to ascend — Hardknott, separating the head of Dunnerdale from Eskdale. Though the road continues very bad, the scenery improves till we reach the summit, from which the charming Eskdale lies 154 THE PASSES open, with its hamlets and sheep-farms, as far as the sea, whilst beyond the Scafell mountains rise grandly. To the north, within a hundred yards of the road, are the ruins of Hardknott Castle, evidently a Roman camp commanding the pass into Westmorland. There are remains of extensive buildings in the centre of the area, and at the four gates lie larger heaps of stones than at any other part of the walls, except at the four corners, where there is evidence of the existence of round towers. A level plot, evidently artificial, about a hundred and fifty yards above the fort, was probably a parade ground. In 1892 the Cumberland and Westmorland Antiquarian and Archaeological Society, with the assistance of Lord Muncaster, the owner of the property, organized a thorough examination of the ruins. The result was the dis- covery of many interesting features on the spot, which has since become one of the show-places of the Lakes. The camp may be visited from Ambleside by the route outlined above, or from Boot. Walna Scar. This much neglected pass, from Coniston to Eskdale, is remarkable for the magnificent surprise view of the Scafell range from the summit, and the prospect it affords from the Duddon Valley. It is well worth the pedestrian's while to make a short divergence to the right quite early in the ascent, and to follow Torver Beck for a short distance, for the sake of viewing the majestic precipice of Dow Crag. Rossett Ghyll, Esk Hause and the Stye Head. The track starts from the sheepfold at the head of Lang- dale, not far from the foot of Pike o' Stickle. It turns to the left — the path to the right leads to the Stake Pass — and soon the ascent of Rossett Ghyll commences. Rossett Ghyll is one of the few places in the Lake District we reach without satis- faction and quit without regret. It is very steep, and des- perately rough. From the head of Rossett Ghyll the track leads through some of the wildest and sternest scenery in Lakeland. Soon we pass on our left Angle Tarn, overshadowed by Hanging Knott, a shoulder of Bowfell. On our right opens Langstrath, which is a regular trap in misty weather for pedestrians coming from the west. (Let these take warning that the head of Rossett Ghyll is beyond, and not to the left of Angle Tarn ) Next we pass between Esk Pike on the left and Allan Crags on the right, reau:hing the summit of Esk Hause (guide post). Left to Scafell THE PASSES 155 Pike ; right down Grain Ghyll to Borrowdale. We proceed straight on below the grand precipice of Great End, with a fine view down Borrowdale to the right, with Skiddaw on the northern horizon above Derwentwater. Next we pass Sprinkling Tarn, at an altitude of 1,960 feet, and so reach the Stye Head. The tarn to our right is Stye Head Tarn (1,430 feet); in front Great Gable stands up grandly, its fan- tastic Napes Ridges well defined against the sky, and on our left is the majestic group of the Scafell Pikes, riven at their base by the wild ravine of Piers Ghyll. From this point the track descends steeply and roughly to Wastwater, which, however, is for some time hidden behind Lingmell, an abut- ment of the Pikes. The Sticks Pass. This lies between Thirlspot (see p. 1 17), near Thirlmere, and Patterdale. The summit of the pass is marked by a series of sticks. Fine views are to be had, but given good weather we should always recommend tourists to cross Helvellyn in preference. The exertion is not much greater, and the scenery s incomparably finer. The Stye is known popularly and in maps as the Stye Head. The proper name of the pass is the Stye (vernacular, stee, ladder). The Stye Head is simply the head of the Stye. For route as far as the commencement, just short of Sea- toller, see pp. 117 and 121. At the gate and signpost we turn off to the left, and tramp steadily up the pass. At first Great End is seen in front ; but at a turn in the road it disappears, to come into sight again as Lingmell, which is soon again replaced by Great End. The outline of these fells from this road is very similar, and generally the tourist thinks he has only seen Great End. We reach Seathwaite, which meteorologists say is the wettest inhabited place in England, after passing the lead mine and the once-celebrated Yews of Borrowdale.^ The stream is then crossed, and the pony track followed upon the opposite side, until Stockley Bridge (rough but picturesque and serviceable) carries the narrow road over the beck. The Stye Head Pass is now in front of the traveller. Great End is prominent on the left. Then comes the dip of Esk Hause, and behind is Glaramara. On the right is a fine waterfall, Taylor Ghyll Force. After a stiff 1 One of the " fraternal four " of which Wordsworth wTote was uprooted in December, 1883; the others have lost their branches, and only the decaying trunks remain. 156 THE PASSES ascent of some 1,000 feet, an easy and well-marked, though occasionally wet, path leads to the Stye Head Tarn. Imme- diately the top of the pass is reached, Wasdale (but not Wastwater) is seen. For scenery and the descent to Wasdale, see p. 155. Scarf Gap and Black Sail. Fine as is the route from Wasdale to Buttermere, the tourist is recommended to make this excursion in the reverse direction. The route starts from Gatesgarth, at the head of Buttermere Lake, which lies in soft beauty on the right, whilst to the left is the rugged valley of Warnscale Bottom. During the ascent fine backward views are obtained to the north in the direction of Skiddaw. For a time the scenery becomes somewhat tame, then suddenly the head of Enner- dale comes into view with startling effect. All here is wild and lonely. To the right is the grand front of Pillar Fell, with Pillar Stone standing out boldly. In front Kirkfell sends down some noble crags, and to the left is the majestic face of Great Gable. As we descend, we conclude that here we have seen the sternest and grandest " surprise " view in the district. We cross a bridge at the head of the valley and ascend Black Sail, with Kirkfell Crags on mir left (it is easy to get astray here, and stumble along over a pass rougher and wilder even than the Stye). All at once, with dramatic suddenness, the gaunt crags of Scafell spring into sight, and we learn that we have to correct our previous impressions as to " surprise views." The path descends steeply, amid grand and impressive scenery, Kirkfell on the left and Pillar and Yewbarrow on the right, till Wastwater, backed by the strange precipice of the Screes, is reached. Esk Hause, by Grain Ghyll. From Keswick to Eskdale. The route as far as Stockley Bridge is described on p. 155. After crossing the bridge, we turn left through a gap in a waU and follow the stream {Gyain Ghyll), keeping it on our left for some time till the ground begins to rise steeply, when we cross and ascend by a tongue which protrudes into the valley. The mountain on our left is Glaramara ; that on our right Seathwaite Fell. In front Great End is a grand object. We mount steadily, skirting this on our right till, after cross- ing the summit of Esk Hause, we find ourselves looking down into Eskdale, with the crags of the Scafell Pikes on our right and a long shoulder of Bowfell sweeping down on the left. For Eskdale, see p. 143. I i^-#-r - ^l ^■■%Mi *- urxsy-.f.i 1-4^ J- >• ., J- ■ 1 w ' .J u* w o <5 J- Cl, Q Z < ^ « W H < ^ "crt Of W S H \ -\ O Oi « fe c/T B (/) wki < K a* ^L, .^ W 4¥^^^k^ * z. -• ■' m o "1 K ■.•' » C/5 ; " bit . ^ ^^ ai- 43 75 < Pi W H 75 2; o •!-» THE PASSES 157 Floutern Tarn Route, between Ennerdale and Lowes Water or Buttermere. This pass is frequently sloppy, or worse. Nevertheless, passing from the Keswick to the western district, the pedes- trian is rewarded by a grand view of Ennerdale. The lake seems almost under his feet, and away to his left stretches a noble frontage of mountains, the fine crags of the Steeple, the tumbled ruin of Pillar Fell, and away, at the head of the valley, Gable Crag, perhaps the most striking precipice in the district. The track to Lowes Water affords pretty peeps, but we get at Buttermere all wrong, as the approach from this direction does not show the beauties of this most charming valley to advantage. Coledale Pass, between Braithwaite and Scale Hill. i-!^The route as far as the head of the pass from Braithwaite is ^identical with that taken for the ascent of Grassmoor (p. 127). From this point the track descends roughly be- tween Grassmoor and Whiteside amid wild, rugged scenery. From Scale Hill there is a delightful approach to Buttermere by Crummock Water (p. 122). To pedestrians we recom- mend this route in preference to that by the Whinlatter Pass (p. 126). Gatescarth Pass. This leads from the Kendal District to Hawes Water, by Longsleddale. It is a good approach to the district, as, after having seen the pick of the beauties of Lakeland, its scenery loses by comparison. Nevertheless, the pass is well worth a visit. The head of Longsleddale is wild and rugged, but after this the walk takes us through featureless grass slopes. The chief interest here hes in keeping to the path. At the head of the pass a false track leads off to the left on to Harter Fell, and to the right is the branch pass to Swindale and Shap ; we keep on in a northerly (slightly north-westerly) direction. The descent, however, is dehghtful. Away to the right he Mardale and dainty Hawes Water, nestling beneath wooded cUffs. In front is the High Street range, seen at its best, and to the left the craggy face of Harter Fell. Rest and refresh- ment may be obtained at the Dun Bull. THE COAST SECTION. To Lakeland through the Furness District. THE route of the Furness Railway Company furnishes travellers coming northward with facihties for speedily and comfortably reaching many of the most beautiful parts of Lakeland {seg pp. 20-23). In this section we shall follow the system northward from Carnforth to St. Bees. Carnforth Junction is the distributing railway dep6t for tourists entering Lakeland from the south. Many hitherto neglected spots in this district, of great historic interest and natural beauty, are increasing in recognition as residential and hohday centres Before dealing with these, however, a word or two must be said concerning the much-frequented seaside resort of — Morecambe. Hotels and Tariffs. — See Introduction. The facilities for exploring the southern part of Lakeland by steamer, rail and coach are so excellent that many visitors make this town their headquarters. Splendidl}^ situated on the spacious Morecambe Bay, it rivals Blackpool in its abundant provision for the amusement of visitors. In ad- dition to the Central Pier and the West End Pier, with their pavilions, there are Winter Gardens, theatres, and other places of entertainment. The promenade is nearly three miles long. The facilities for bathing, boating and fishing are excellent. There are good golf links, and the country around affords many delightful drives and rambles. Some of the most popular circular tours through Lakeland may be conveniently made in one day from Morecambe. In the neighbourhood, too, are the historic town of Lancaster, with its famous castle and j&ne old parish church, and Heysham^ with the great new docks constructed by the Midland Railway Company for their Irish and Isle of Man steamer services 158 SIL VERBA LE—A RNSIDE 1 59 This, however, is a digression. Proceeding from Carnforth Junction in the direction of Lakeland we first reach — Silverdale. Golf. — Nine-hole course. Visitors : is. 6d. day, 35. week, io». 6d. month. Hoteb. — See Introduction. Silverdale station is three and a half miles from Carnforth. The scattered and picturesque village — nearly a mile west of the line — occupies a charming site on the eastern side of Morecambe Bay, opposite Kent's Bank on the western shore. There is a fine open sea-view. Many residences have been erected here and in the neighbourhood during the last few years. The sea-bathing is excellent. Silverdale owes its prosperous times (and the reverse) to the vagaries of " the channel.' If at low tide the Kent and Winster flow on the Silverdale side of the bay, all is well, but if they favour the Grange shore, business becomes slow. For the past few years Silverdale has been favoured. Arnside. Drives. — The principal drives are to Hazelslack and Fairy Steps ; Haverbrack Haweswater ; Milnthorpe, Beetham and Stalkhead ; Yealand ; Burton Witherslack ; Crooklands ; Kendal ; Leighton Beck and Fox Holes ; Arn- side Knott and Gibraltar Tower ; and Kirkby Lonsdale. Golf. — Nine-hole course at Arnside Knott, about three-quarters of a mile from station. Visitors : is. day, 3s. 6d. week, las. 6d. month. Hotels. — See Introduction. This, the " port " and shipbuilding centre of Westmorland, occupies a pleasing site on the east shore of the Kent estuary, opposite Grange, with which it is connected by the Kent Viaduct, of fifty spans of thirty feet each. The recent growth of the village has not marred the charms of the coast or the sylvan beauties of the famous Arnside Knott, from the top of which one of the finest views in this part of the country is obtained. The Church, dedicated to St. James, was erected in 1869* and enlarged in 1905. Boating is one of the chief attractions Arnside to Kendal. The main road skirting the east bank of the broad estuary of the Kent and Bela rivers (which join at Sandside), on- wards to Milnthorpe, is nearly level, and, when not flooded by tidal waters, which occasionally happens, as it is only a few feet above normal sea-level, is an excellent one. At Sandside station a right-of-way occupation road and a footpath skirt and lead over Haverbrack Common to the 1 60 MILNTHORPE—HE VERS HA M village of Beetham. Haverbrack Common, a wide and elevated " outcrop " of the limestone formation, affords an interesting geological study. From its rugged plateau the eye takes in one of the finest scenes in the country, including a magnificent cirque of the giants of Lakeland, From the summit of Haverbrack more than one open footpath leads through copses and over breezy moorland to the Fairy Steps, formed by the action of water on the front of a lengthy and lofty perpendicular range of lime- stone. The Fairy Steps are a favourite resort of tourists and picnic parties from Morecambe and other places. Beetham {Wheatsheaf Inn) is prettily situated at the junction of the Silverdale and Lancaster and Kendal main roads, where the Bela is crossed by a handsome bridge, close to an artificial waterfall. It is a favourite resort of anglers. The Church, a Gothic building recently restored, contains many ancient monuments, principally to members of the Wilson family, formerly lords of the manor of Haver- brack. Milnthorpe. Milnthorpe is a good coaching, cycling, and pedestrian centre, though the village is of little interest. It boasts of having been the " only seaport " in Westmorland, and cer- tainly early in the last century trading vessels of light tonnage plied between the " port " and the Mersey, There are even records of a warning beacon having stood on Haverbrack Common, but the building of the Kent Via- duct rendered navigation impossible. Between the village and the Furness Railway is Dallam Tower, with extensive gardens and a noble park containing a large herd of fallow deer, Heversham. Heversham, a mile and a half north of Milnthorpe, on the Kendal road, has a fine old Church, erected in 1601, and recently restored, and a Grammar School, founded and endowed in 161 3 by Edward Wilson, It has since received many additional endowments and is rich in University scholarships. About a mile north of Heversham is Levens Hall, with its famous clipped yews {see p. 176), and a further four miles northward we reach Kendal, described on pp. 172-3. Crossing the estuary of Morecambe Bay from Arnside by the long Kent Viaduct (for railway traffic only) the Une turns westward along the sandy shore to — H O) o Lakes. 43 F. Frith & Co., Ltd.,] THE FAIRY STEPS, BEETHAM. [Reigate. r F- mk F. Fnlh & Co., Ltd., [Reigate. PRIORY CHURCH, CARTMEL. 46 GRA NGE-0 VERSA NDS 1 6i Grange-over-Sands. Drives from Grange.— Cartmel Church (3 m.) ; Humphrey Head (5 m.) ; Holker Hall (5 m.) ; Newby Bridge (7 m.) ; Lakeside for Windermere (8 m.) ; Wither- slack and Whitbarrow (7 m.) ; Levens Hall and Gardens (9 m.) ; Bowness (14 m.) ; Low Wood (18 m.) ; Kendal (14 m.)- Fares by arrangement. Golf. — Nine- hole course, x^ m. from station, towards Cartmel. Visitors, 2s. day 3s. week-end, 5s. week. Hotels. — See Introduction. Places of Worship. — St. Paul's Church, Roman Catholic, Congregational and Wesleyan Chapels. Tennis. — Grange is the headquarters of the North Lonsdale Tennis Club. This charming watering-place has been called the " Tor- quay of the North," and whether as a summer or a winter resort, its good sanitary arrangements, and scenic, chmatic and social attractions justify the claim. The place is entirely modern, dating from the opening of the Furness Railway in 1857, and now numbering a residential population of about two thousand. The promenade, nearly a mile and a half long, is well provided with seats and shelters. Grange has a higher temperature in spring than any other place in the North of England. Beautifully situated on the lower slopes of Yewbarrow, it is sheltered on the north and west by hills, and has a fine outlook over Morecambe Bay. The best view of the country is from the Hospice at the summit of Hamps- fell, " built by a former pastor of Cartmel parish for the shelter and entertainment of wanderers over the fell." The view includes many of the highest and most shapely Lakeland mountains. On the panelled walls within the hospice are inscribed verses descriptive of the scenery and the object of the building. It is a popular delusion, repeated in some guide-books, that the tumulus near the top of Hampsfell marks the site of the last battle fought by Dunmail, King of Cumberland, against Edmund, King of the Saxons, in 946 ; Dunmail Raise, near Grasmere, was the locahty [see p. 87). Still skirting the bay, the Hne reaches, a mile south of Grange, the station for Kent's Bank. In olden times this was the first terra firma landing-stage of the perilous low- water route over the sands from ,the south-east side of More- <:ambe Bay, and what remains of the Abbot's Hall carries the mind back to pre-Reformation times, when the monks of Cartmel enjoyed the privilege of appointing the guide who conducted travellers thither. At the Dissolution the revenues derived from this source were paid into the exchequer of the Duchy of Lancaster, and an official guide, styled in a charter English Lakes {I) A I 62 CART MEL of George III., " keeper, conductor, and governor over the sands," was appointed. The huge, unwieldy form of Humphrey Head, to the south, commands fine views. At its base is & mineral spring called Holywell. In a cave near by, known as Kirkhead, many implements of bone, stone, and bronze, and other prehistoric relics, have been found. Continuing by the railway, we have on the right the village of Allithwaite,and, close to the hne, Wraysholme Tower, with which is connected a legend of the Harrington family, con- cerning " the last wolf," which was hunted down in the neighbouring rocks. Crossing the high-road, the train next stops at Cark, the station for Flookburgh and Cartmel, Flookburgh is a decaying fishing village. Flukes and cockles used to abound on the sands, but injudicious methods hare damaged the industry terribly. Cark Hall is a fine specimen of an Elizabethan country house, but it has been suffered to decay. It was the residence of the ancient family of Rawhnson, connected by marriage with the|Plantagenets. Cartmel, two miles north-east of Cark station, is said to have obtained ts name {Caermoel, literally, " a camp among the hills ") from an ancient British camp. In the days of Ecfreth, King of Northumbria, these Britons were summarily disposed of by that monarch, who granted the whole region of Cartmel to St. Cuthbert, with the Britons in it. Cartmel is a quiet old place, a cathedral city in miniature, happy in the possession of a fine old Priory Church, one of the few which escaped entire destruction at the Dissolution. The church possesses many points of architectural beauty, including a fine oak screen and choir stalls in excellent pre- servation. The carvings of the misereres are very interesting. There is a valuable library of ancient black-letter volumes in the vestry. The beautiful east window is believed to have been inserted in the reign of Henry VI., at which time some smaller stained-glass windows were removed. Some autho- rities affirm that the east window of Bowness Church was formed out of them, others maintain that it was the east window of Furness Abbey church. As both were dedicated to St. Mary, the confusion is not surprising, but the intemaJ evidence is in favour of Cartmel, because the window con- tains (i) the effigy of a Prior of Cartmel ; (2) the effigies of CARTMEL—ULVERSTON 163 William Thornburgh and his wife, of Hampsfield Hall, in Cartmel ; (3) monks with Cartmel names praying and turn- ing their faces towards the Thornburghs ; (4) in two places the arms of William Mareschall the elder, the founder of Cartmel Priory. Cartmel Priory was founded in 1188 by William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, who expelled the French invaders after the death of King John. The monks are said to have been guided in their choice of the site by a supernatural voice which bade them erect the church " in a valley between two rivers, where the one runs north and the other south." The gateway only remains ; it was for many years used as a pubhc school. The walls and general arrangement of the monas- tery, the buildings of which occupied an area of about twenty- two acres, may be traced. There is a monument inside the church to Lord Frederick Cavendish, who was assassinated in Phoenix Park, Dublin, in 1881. A little north of Cark station is Holker Hall, one of the seats of the Cavendish family. It is built of red sandstone from Runcorn, and stands in a well- timbered park of more than two hundred acres. The finely-wooded grounds of Conishead now appear across the sands, and over the tops of the trees are seen the spires and minarets of the Priory. Beyond is Birkrigg Hill, and the coast-line stretching away to the extremity of Furness. On Chapel Island, a picturesque object in the bay, are the remains of a chapel said to have been built by the priors of Conishead for the use of persons crossing the sands. We now rumble over a second viaduct, traversing the Leven Estuary, which drains the lakes of Coniston and Windermere ; and here is obtained a glance of the Lake mountains, rising in rugged wildness, and seen to great advantage from this point. Ulverston. Fairs. — Thursday ia Whitsun week for pedlary and hiring servants. Thursday on or after November ii for hiring servants. Tuesday preceding first full week in January for the sale of horses. Golf Links.— A capital i8-hole course in Bardsea Park, opened in 1910. Visitors : 2s. 6d. day. Hotels. — See Introduction. Places of Worship.— S/. Mary's, Holy Trinity, St. Jude's, St. John's, Roman Catholic, Weskyan, Congregational, Baptist, Primitive Methodist, Frtends, and others. Ulverston is the best centre for circular tours on the western side of Lakeland, not to mention numerous local excursions. Of these circular tours it has been said that 1 64 ULVERSTON wherever you start from and wherever you are bound, you have to change at Ulverston. Besides its advantages as a starting-point for tourists, Ulverston is a considerable town. It has linen and cotton factories, flour and paper mills, tan- neries, iron-foundries, and large concerns, and its appearance gives an idea of substantial prosperity. Its principal industry is the smelting and exportation of iron ore. Ulverston Market, held every Thursday, is an important function. Above the town stands Hoad Hill (435 ft.), on which is a monument to Sir John Barrow, Bart., Under-Secretary to the Admiralty for forty years. The monument is 100 feet high, and is built in imitation of the Eddystone Lighthouse. The hill, easily ascended by a winding road, commands a grand view of the Lake District and of Morecambe Bay, etc. Two miles to the south of Ulverston, and reached by a short branch line, is Conishead Priory, now a hydropathic estabUsh- ment. The history of the Priory goes back to the time of Henry II., when it was established by Gamel de Pennington. The grand mansion on thp site of the Priory dates from 1821. The mansion was indeed too grand for its owner to hve in, and it was parted with at a great sacrifice for its present pur- pose. There are nearly two hundred acres of grounds border- ing the western shore of Morecambe Bay. Swarthmoor Hall, close at hand, was for many years the residence of George Fox, founder of the Society of Friends. Ulverston to Lake-Side. From Ulverston the branch to Lake-Side runs vid'Greenodd, a pretty little village, well worth a visit, and Haverthwaite. Backbarrow, a village on the Leven, is the seat of an old- established and important steel industry, the charcoal being burned in the neighbourhood. The Leven here tumbles over three pretty falls, the largest in the district as regards volume. To the north are the wooded heights of Finsthwaite, capped by a tower, erected " to honour the officers, seamen, and marines of the royal navy, whose matchless conduct and irresistible valour decisively defeated the fleets of France, Spain, and Holland, and promoted the protected liberty and commerce, 1799." The present condition of this memorial is regrettable, but the walk to it through the woods, and the panorama commanded, can hardly be excelled. NEW BY BRIDGE— GUMMERS HOW 165 Newby Bridge is situated on the Leven, a mile from the foot of Lake Windermere. The name is derived from the quaint old-world bridge, with five low arches of unequal sizes and sharply-pointed buttresses. The recesses in which the pedestrian may take refuge when endangered by passing vehicles carry the imagination back to times when locomotion was primitive. The place is a favourite resort of anglers, and there is a sporting nine-hole golf course half a mile away. Next to Borrowdale, the scenery hereabouts is perhaps the prettiest in the district. Gummers How (1,054 feet), a hill opposite Lake-Side Station, on the border of Windermere, commands a charming prospect. In the neighbourhood are many pleasant walks, especially along the banks of the river, which hereabouts is at its best. The excursions on Windermere are described else- where (p. 72). Ulverston to Furness Abbey and Barrow. — Following the Furness Railway southward from Ulverston, we pass Dalton, a picturesquely-situated mining centre, interesting as the birthplace of George Romney, the portrait painter, whose grave in the churchyard is marked by a plain stone inscribed " Pictuor Celeberrimus." He died on November 15, 1802. His early home at Barrow is now used as a museum. Furness Abbey is described on pp. 98-101, Barrow on p. 102. Ulverston to Coniston and Broughton. From Ulverston a good road runs northward for about eight miles to the foot of Coniston Lake ; the tourist may thence go by boat to the village of Coniston at its head ; and, if taking a circular trip, return by rail to Ulverston via Broughton and Dalton. If tramping, he can, if he choose, reduce the walking distance by about a third by taking train as far as Greenodd, the first station on the branch to Lake- Side. The village is situated at the entrance to the pretty valley of the river Crake. Soon after leaving Greenodd the road passes through Penny Bridge. Summer Hill is on our left. At Spark Bridge are some extensive bobbin mills, an industry novel to most visitors to the Lake District. At Lowick Green the direct road from Ulverston joins that from Greenodd, We next reach Lowick Bridge, with Lowick Church and Hall and i66 BROUGHTON Hundow Hall in the iminediate neighbourhood. About a mile beyond is Blawith Church ; and in another mile we reach the end of the walk. At the pier the gondola or the steam-j^acht is boarded for the voyage up Coniston Lake. The lake and the village are described elsewhere (pp. 88-90). Leaving Coniston by rail (the station is about half a mile from the lake) we proceed either by train or by rail motor-car (with windows so constructed as to give the fullest oppor- tunity for viewing the country) to the station at Torver, a small village from which many make the ascent of the Old Man. The present church stands on the site of one con- secrated by hcence from Archbishop Cranmer in 1538. The railway now takes a south-westerly course over a rough tract of country, mostly fell land. On these unfre- quented wilds are many traces of the ancient Celt, and to the antiquary the neighbourhood offers endless employment. Hearing Broughton, we have on the right the modem mansion of Broughton Tower, standing on the site of the old castle of the Broughtons, a family who settled here in Anglo-Saxon days, and flourished under Normans and Plantagenets. A tower of the old castle and a portion of its dungeons yet remain ; the tower, ascended by a spiral stone staircase, commands a glorious view Broughton, a small market town, is known as Broughton West, or Brough- ton-in-Furness, to distinguish it from Broughton East, or Wood Broughton, near the foot of Windermere. It is pleasantly situated on a slight eminence, about three-quarters of a mile east of the Duddon. In the centre of the Market Square stands a stone obelisk to the memory of one John Gilpin, the donor of the site on which the square is built. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, is in the Early English style, and occupies the site of an old and interesting structure, removed in 1873. There is, however, still a fine Norman doorway on the south side. From Broughton several pleasing excursions may be made. Ascent of Black Combe. This mountain is about five miles to the west. The road runs for the first mile nearly north to a bridge over the Duddon, and then turns south-westward, BLACK COMBE— BOOTLE 167 passing through the hamlet of Broadgate. The pedestrian may proceed directly from Duddon Bridge to Swlnside (where as one of the most perfect Druidical circles in the north of England) by following a steep but pleasant path over the wood-clad fell. Ascending the ridge in a south-westerly direction, and leaving White Combe (1,361 ft.) on the left, we make directly for the summit of Black Combe (1,969 ft.). Wordsworth declares that its " dread name " is " derived from clouds and storms " ; other authorities trace it to the dark-coloured heath with which its western side is clothed ; but the name is, of course, derived from the black combe, visible from miles away, on the south-east side, near the sum- niit. Though far from being one of the loftiest of British mountains, our Lake poet is not far wrong when he says that from its summit — ■ " the amplest range Of unobstructed prospect may be seen That British ground commands : " iot other hills'^ in the neighbourhood are of inferior height. The view includes the Scotch, Irish, and Welsh coasts, with the peak of Snowdon in the distance ; the Isle of Man, Fumess, Mid-Lancashire, and the Yorkshire Fells ; and most of the principal peaks in the Lake District. Several of the elder authorities claim that the southerly view extends to Jack Hill, near Hanley in Staffordshire. If so, Wordsworth's encomium is deserved. The nearest mountains are the Coniston group, beyond which is the mass of Helvellyn on one side and the cone of 111 Bell on the other. Away to the left are Scafell and the Pikes, and the peak of Bowfell, with the PiUar. The distant- ridge on the horizon is Skiddaw. Descending the southern slope, we cross the high-road from Broughton to Bootle, and reach the station at Silecroft, whence the return to Broughton can be made by rail. Broughton is also a favourite starting-point for the Duddon ▼alley, described under the Coniston excursions on pp. 91-2. The next point of interest is — Bootle, about i^- miles inland from the railway station of the same name. Its market charter dates from 1347. At Seaton Nunnery, a mile to the north, are the ruins of an early thirteenth-century Benedictine house. The whole area to the north is rich in reUcs of the past : ancient garths (farm- steads), stone circles, beacons, cairns, etc. 1 68 RAVENGLASS—MUNCASTER CASTLE Waberthwaite, reached in about 2 miles from Eskmeals station, is a quarry- men's village, but the interest lies in its little Church, which for centuries was the chapel for Muncaster Castle, the wath or ford to that place being passable at low tide. The building has escaped restoration. In the churchyard is a pre-Norman cross-shaft with an interesting story, Ravenglass. Reached by the Furness Railway via Ulverston and Fox- field, Ravenglass is a good starting-point for some of the finest parts of the Cumberland Lake District. It is the junction of the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, by which Boot {sge p. 142) is reached, but the line is at present closed. Ravenglass is a market town and the site of a small mussel fishery. Pearl mussels were formerly found at the con- fluence here of the rivers Esk, Mite, and Irt. The old custom of " riding the fair " is occasionally observed on June 8 ; it is proclaimed by the steward of the manor, attended by halberdiers, a memorial of the armed retinues of former times. Walls Castle, the ruins of a Roman villa, about eight minutes' walk from the town, has attracted much attention from antiquaries, numbers of Roman coins and other old- world articles having been found there. There was also a large Roman camp, as this was their western port. From Ravenglass the Eskdale railway follows the river Mite into Miterdale, and runs to Muncaster along the foot of the northern slopes of Muncaster Fell. On the southern slope of the latter is Muncaster Castle, the seat of Lord Muncaster, whose ancestors have owned it since the middle of the thirteenth century. From the square tower a glorious view of the mountains of Lakeland is obtained. The castle contains many family portraits and other paintings ; a bedstead on which Henry VI slept when he took refuge here after the disastrous defeat of Towton Field ; and a carved oak mantelpiece in the hall. The chief object of interest is the " luck " of Muncaster,^ an i There is another more famous " luck," at Eden Hall {see p. 186) and minor ucks " or " charms " at many of the border keeps and halls. DRIGG—SEA SCA LE 169 ancient glass basin, seven inches in diameter, the gift of that monarch to the then owner of the castle. It was formerly- preserved with superstitious care, in consequence of a tradi- tion that " whyllys the famyUe shold kepe hit unbrecken, they shold gretely thrif," and never lack a male heir. Mun- caster Church, of considerable antiquity, adjoins the park ; in the churchyard are two old yews and a fragment of att ancient cross. The coast-line continues northward over the estuary of the Esk to Drigg, which is a good starting-point for an excursion to Wastwater. The neighbourhood was formerly noted for its oaks, hence the name, derigh, or dergh (Celtic, "oak")^ Between railway and sea is a chalybeate spring of some celebrity. On the shore is a huge boulder, nearly six feet high, twelve long, and nine aboad, called Carl Crag, said to- have been dropped by his Satanic Majesty when attempting to- unite the Isle of Man with the Enghsh mainland. The best road from Drigg to Wastwater follows approxi- mately the course of the Irt, passing Holmrook and its hall,, and crossing the river by an ancient ivy-covered bridge ; then turning to the left it proceeds through Irton, the church of which is a conspicuous object for miles. The road to Wast- water leads straight forward through the woods that encom- pass the hall, over Santon Bridge and by the north-west foot of Irton Fell, and so past Strands {see p. 144). Four miles beyond Drigg, on the coast-line, is — Seascale. Golf. — Eighteen-hole course, extending more than three miles along the shore. Visitors : 2S. 6d. day, los. week, 25s. month. Hotels. — See Introduction. ^ This is fast becoming one of the most popular seaside and golfing resorts on the Cumberland coast. Lodging accom- modation is good and cheap, the sea-bathing unrivalled and the golf quite the best near the Lakes. Eskdale, Enner- dale, Wastwater and Calder Abbey can be comfortably explored, the roads being generally excellent for cycling. The Lake District Horticultural Show, held at Seascale in August, is one of the best in Cumberland. From Seascale, during the^season, coaches leave daily for Wastwater,' passing en route^thiough — // lyo C ALDER BRIDGE Gosforth. In the churchyard are two ancient crosses — one a mere fragment — of Norse origin. The sides are covered with curious figures and devices. Two and a^half miles north-west of Gosforth is the village of — Calder Bridge, on the Calder, a river which has its source in the Copeland Forest to the east, and reaches the sea at Sellafield, about two miles to the west. Calder Bridge is on the main road to Whitehaven, from which town it is scarcely a dozen miles south. The ruins of Calder Abbey {open Fridays, lo a.m. to 4 p.m.) stand in a retired valley on the banks of the river. The remains, embowered in woods, consist of a Norman doorway, a central tower supported by Pointed arches, and the waUs of the south transept and the cloisters. The abbey was founded in 1134, under the auspices of the second Ranulph de Meschines, by a colony of monks from Furness Abbey, who about five years afterwards experienced a visitation from an army of Scots, and, having lost their all, returned to their mother abbey. Here they met with reproaches instead of succour. They therefore made their way to York and laid their case before the archbishop, who secured for them a patron in the person of a nobleman through whose instrumentality they were enabled to build Byland Abbey in 11 42. Calder Abbey was afterwards occupied by a second colony from Furness. At the Dissolution it shared the fate of other monastic institutions. On the other side of the river are the remains of a Roman camp. Ponsonby Hall, to the south, belongs to a family who lived in this neighbourhood forty years before the Conquest. The house itself was built in 1798, and contains one of the most singular pieces of antique furniture in the kingdom, a bed- stead bearing the date 1345. Sellapark Hall, once belonging to the monks of Calder Abbey but now a private residence, stands near the hamlet of Yottenfews, a mile and a half from Sellafield. From Calder Bridge a road runs due north for seven miles to^Ennerdale Bridge, rather more than a mile west of Enner- dale Water {see p. 148). Sellafield, the next station, is the junction of the Egre- mont and Whitehaven lines Following the coast-line, COCKERMOUTH 171 through Braystones and Nethertown, we should reach St. Bees, until comparatively recently an insignificant village, but now quite a good excursion centre, especially handy for Ennerdale. The name is taken from a monastery erected by St. Bega, an Irish recluse, in 650. The abbey church is still in good repair. St, Bees Head, one of the most prominent capes on the British coast, projects about a mile into the sea, rising sheer out of the water to a height of more than three hundred feet. It forms the southern head of the bay of Whitehaven, among the safest harbours on the coast, from which steamers sail regularly to Belfast, the Isle of Man, Liverpool, etc. From Whitehaven the railway follows the uninteresting coast to Workington, where a branch turns inland and, after a run of sixteen miles, touches the confines of the northern section of the Lake District at — Cockermouth. This town, which stands at the junction of the Cocker and the Derweni, has an abiding interest as the birthplace of Wordsworth. The house in which he was born (1770) stands in the main street. In 1896 a granite Memorial Fountain to William and Dorothy Wordsworth, surmounted by a bronze figure, was erected in the public park. The Castle, on the east bank of the river, was built soon after the Conquest. A portion of the building is still habit- able. Cockermouth consists chiefly of a long street crossing the river by a stone bridge. The clock with illuminated dials was erected in 1893, in memory of Edwin Waugh. A hundred yards west is a statue of the sixth Earl of Mayo, Viceroy of India from 1868 to his assassination in 1872. Cockermouth can be recommended as a centre, especially to anglers. Moreover, most of the Keswick excursions can be made from Cockermouth. Papcastle, a mile north-east of the town, was a Roman camp, but few traces of it are now to be seen. THE INLAND BORDER SECTION. KENDAL. Golf. — i8-hole course. 2S. day, 5s. week. Hotels. — See Introduction. Places of Worship, with hours of Sunday services : Parish Church, St. George's, St. Thomas's and All Hallows' — all at 10.30 and 6.30. Also chapels of most denominations. MOST tourists, hurrying to Lakeland, entirely overlook Kendal. They make a mistake. The " old grey town " well merits at least a halt by the way. It is, more- over, a capital centre for cyclists and motorists, and the facilities it offers for coaching excursions, both in the cheap- ness of the fares and the beauty of the drives, challenge, on terms at least equal, many better-known resorts. In this latter respect, indeed, Kendal enterprise has developed recently to a degree as remarkable as it is creditable. There are golf and cricket clubs to which visitors are ad- mitted at moderate subscriptions, and bowls, tennis, hockey, and angling in plenty. In Allhallows Lane is a fine swimming bath, 60 feet by 30 feet. There are three packs of hounds in the neighbourhood — the Oxenholme Stag-hounds, the Coniston Foxhounds and the Windermere Harriers. The two last are fellside packs, and are followed on foot. The ruins of Kendal Castle form a conspicuous feature of the valley. As the ruin and a large portion of land around are now public property, what remains of the ancient pile wiU probably be preserved from further decay and the park lands from further encroachments. The Castle was the birthplace of Katherine Parr, the last of Henry VIIl*s wives. Other places of public recreation are Abbot Hall, with its well-wooded grounds, and the Serpentine, a delightful pleasure ground of about 18 acres. The chief glory of Kendal is the Parish Church {key at the clerk's), dedicated to the Holy Trinity ; a handsome structure still in fine preservation. It consists of nave, chancel, and four aisles. The tower, 80 feet high, has one of the best peals 172 KENDAL 173 in the north. Nicholson, in his Annals of Kendal ^ mentions an ancient helmet suspended immediately over the tomb of Sir Roger BelUngham (seventh "Knight Banneret"), and concludes that this helmet either belonged to him, or was suspended in memory of his having received that honourable distinction from the king on the field of battle. This helmet is popularly alleged to have belonged to one Robert Philipson, a daring cavalier, yclept " Robin the Devil," who paid a surprise visit to the church one Sunday with the object of getting even with Colonel Briggs, a Puritan, who had been besieging him on Belle Isle, Windermere, for some days. He failed to accomplish his purpose and escaped only after a desperate struggle, leaving his helmet behind. This narra- tive is still extant in a ballad of the times, entitled " Dick and the Devil," now, of course, extremely rare and was also utihzed by Scott in Rokehy. The Kendal Grammar School, founded by Adam Penning- ton in 1525, and endowed by Edward VI in 1548, now occupies a large building in the Lound district of the town. It is rich in scholarships. The principal public buildings are the Public Library, the Market Hall, Stramongate Hall (assembly rooms), St. George's Hall (theatre), the Bonded Warehouse, the Sleddall Almshouses, the County Hospital and the Howard Orphan Home. There is also an interesting Museum. A sufficient number of old-time buildings remain to give the town a fascinating air of antiquity. In former days Kendal was famous for its woollen manufactures, and quite recently some of its ancient industries have been revived with con- siderable success. Falstaff's allusion in King Henry IV to the " three misbegotten knaves in Kendal green " will be recalled in this connection. Kendal is the centre of the bi-annual Wakefield Musical Festival, which lasts for three or four days, and has been the means of giving a great impetus to the popularization of high- class music. The founder and inspiring spirit of the Festival was Miss Wakefield. There is also a Kendal Choral Society. The Neighbourhood of Kendal. There are many places of great interest and beauty in the immediate vicinity of Kendal. Perhaps the best view of the 174 ROUND KENDAL town and valley, taking in the grand sweep of Morecambe Bay to the south-east, the Upper Kent valley, and the eastern range of the Lake District mountains, is from the top of Benson Knot ; but this is a game preserve, and there is no footpath. Good views can also be had at various points of the uplands intervening between the Kendal and Sedbergh road (the way of approach to Benson Knot) and the fern-clad summit of Helm Crag, to the rear of Oxenholme Junction, from which place the latter can be reached in an easy half-hour's walk. But undoubtedly the finest view-point in the neighbour- hood of Kendal is Scout Scar (two miles south-west of the Town Hall), from which may be seen a magnificent panorama of the Lakeland giants, including the Old Man, Scafell Pike, Bowfell, Great Gable, Fairfield and Red Screes. There is a tradition that it was from the topmost ridge of Scout Scar that John Martin painted his well-known picture, " The Plains of Heaven," though Barras, near the " summit " of the Darlington and Penrith line, and the Isle of Man are also credited with this " celestial " painting. From the summit of the east comer of Scout Scar can be seen the towers of Sizergh Castle, one of the finest ancient fortified buildings in Westmorland, and up to a very recent date (as a visit to the Victoria and Albert Museum at South Kensington can show) rich in superb and almost unrivalled oak carving. Sizergh can be reached from Scout Scar by way of Brigsteer Wood, a very charming walk, ; but the best view of the Castle is from the Kendal and Milnthorpe road. Sizergh has been in possession of the Strickland family (one of the most ancient in England) from the Norman Conquest. The rooms are not now shown to visitors. Nearly opposite Sizergh, on the east bank of the Kent, stands the modern castellated mansion of Sedgwick. Near the south-eastern entrance to Sizergh Park a road (bad for cycling) leads to Hawes Bridge, which spans the river Kent at one of the most picturesque and romantic spots in the whole course of its journey from far above Staveley to More- cambe Bay. There is a grim murder legend connected with the bridge. About two miles farther down the Kent is Force Bridge^ close to which is a long reach known as Force Fall, where the river tumbles over and among great boulders. Tourists wishing to pass from Kendal to Mardale may cycle or drive for the first 1 1 miles up Longsleddale {see p. 157), that is, as far as Sad Ghyll. Beyond that, right up to Gatoscarth Pass, over the right shoulder of Harter Fell, and LONGSLEDDALE 175 across the rough plateau to Hawes Water the journey must be footed. But it will amply repay the traveller, and al- though there is no inn in the whole of the valley, accom- modation and homely fare can be obtained at the farm- houses or cottages. COACH TRIPS FROM KENDAL. Drives are arranged to Ingleton, Farleton Knott, Deep- dale, Witherslack Hall by Whitbarrow Scar (a fine drive), Kirkby Lonsdale, Grange, Grasmere, Coniston, Patterdale, Levens Bridge, Newby Bridge (a long but delightful drive), Morecambe, Sedbergh, Wythburn, Dungeon Ghyll, Ambleside and Cartmel by Grange. The fares for these excursions are very moderate, averaging about 3s. 6d. The L. & N.-W. and Lanes & Yorks Railways also arrange excursions on certain days to Longsleddale (25. 6d.), PattoQ and Gamett Bridge (25.), Hutton (25.), Cartmel Fell by Win- ster (35.), Kentmere by Hundhow (2s. 6J.), and Levens by Crook (25.). Of the places visited on these excursions, most of which are described elsewhere, we propose to refer specially only t« the following — I. Longsleddale. This is the first of the grand and romantic valleys of West- morland encountered on entering fLakeland via Kendal, and there are few superior to it, more particularly for several miles beyond Sad Ghyll. When Wordsworth wrote his Guide, SL century or so ago, he mentioned as one of the advan- tages of this valley that it was " thoroughly free from the intrusion of art," and it is so even at the present day. The church (eight miles from Kendal) is a homely structure capable of holding the entire population of the valley, esti- mated at about a hundred and fifty. As the traveller ascends the vale, a short distance from Kendal, the whole sweep of the Kent Valley, Morecambe Bay, the south-eastern and eastern ranges of the Lake Mountains come in view, while the River Sprint tumbles down, or in deeper dubs and shallows slowly glides onward to the Kent, near Burneside Hall. There is a famous well not far from Buckbarrow, the neighbourhood of which is a happy hunting-ground of botanists in search of rare plants. There is a very pretty bit of waterfall at Sad Ghyll, another higher up under Buckbarrow, and several fine cascades right below Harter FeU. The mountain way to 176 LEV ENS HALL Mardale (Hawes Water) is up through Gatescarth Pass, over the right shoulder of Harter Fell {see p. 157). Wet Sleddale and Swindale can be reached by the same route, with slight •deviations easily ascertained. II. Levens Hall. This picturesque pre-Elizabethan mansion, about five miles south of Kendal, on the Milnthorpe road, is famous in historic annals, rich in oak carving and works by old masters, -and possesses a " topiary " garden equal to that at Hampton Court. On Thursdays facilities are freely afforded to visitors to view not only the park but the rare and beautiful gardens, with their fantastically- formed yews. In the noble park -are rows of stately and venerable beeches and oaks, long stretches of broad grass-clad avenues, and shady footpaths ; it is the home of many species of birds and squirrels, and of a fine herd of fallow deer. The river Kent winds through the park under the old ivy-clad bridge, past the front of the hall, onward to the waters of Morecambe Bay. The following description appeared in a periodical issued by the Cumberland and Westmorland Association of London, irom the pen of Mr. Alex. Webster : — " Despite its artistic and historical treasures, the house at Levens is not renowned as is the garden, which, nowadays, men travel far to see, simple working folk from the black district of Lancashire coming in their hundreds to behold and wonder at it. When King James III was gone from England and the Stuart hench- men withdrew sullen and recalcitrant to their homes, it was natural they should betake themselves each to the hobby of his taste. At Levens Colonel Grahme turned to gardening, and engaged Mon- sieur Beaumont, whom James II had employed in remodelling the grounds at Hampton Court, to design him a retreat in the formal fashion of the time. To-day it harbours a fantastical charm the •designer can never have known. The garden of our fancy might be of another order ; we might even applaud Lord Bacon's stric- tures upon images cut in juniper or other garden stuff. ' They be for children,' he writes laconically. But sm^ely an innocent accept- ance of the artificial is permissible, even to a grey beard. And when the game of make-believe meets us in such delightful guise as here at Levens, what excuse can be found for refusing to play ? For, after all, the distinction this garden enjoys is largely due to the many quaint ' images ' cut in box and yew which adorn its borders and its beds. Cones, cylinders, hemispheres, pyramids, arches, and other geometrical figures, singly and in combination, are plentifully dotted about, and here is a peacock, there a lion, here a row of chessmen, there a judge's wig — all shaped in the trimmest way of box or yew. But interest is by no means con- fined to the topiary work. Clipped evergreens strike the dominant note, but the harmonies are of flowers. Each pathway is a vista F. Frith & Co., Ltd.,] [Reigate. KENDAL CASTLE. /. H. Hogg,] LEVEXS GARDENS. 47 [Kendal. (•.■ 4f KIRK BY LONSDALE 177 difiering from the rest, and every tree, no matter how oddly be- witched, gives the kaleidoscope another turn. As the eye lights for the first time upon figures cut in yew, the sense of the ludicrous is not more startling than that of an eerie personality hovering upon this garden as upon all strongly individual objects. The illusion is irresistible. Our childish instincts admit self- conscious- ness in the strange surroundings, and in a moment we skip the charmed border of wonderland. But alas ! we are not really chil- dren and the garden is only a worldly, human garden, varying its moods from day to day. Human it is true, but with miraculous longevity. The measure of its age is not in years nor decades but in centuries. Thus slowly these yew trees have grown, assum- ing by unseen gradations a character at once solemn and grotesque, and preserving in their very artificiality a living expression of the Jacobite time." KIRKBY LONSDALE. Golf. — Nine-hole course, is. day ; 3s. week ; 55. 6d. fortnight ; los. month. Hotels.— S^e Introduction. Places of Worship. — Parish Church, Wesleyan and Congregational Chapels. This attractive village has the misfortune to be two miles from the railway station on the Ingleton and Low Gill branch of the London and North- Western Railway and about the same distance from Arkholme on the Midland Railway, and although but ten miles by road from Kendal it is about sixteen by rail and only a few trains daily are convenient to visitors. Lodging accommodation is abundant, there are considerable facilities for angling, and the country around is attractively varied — mountain, fell, and valley, with lovely stretches of the river Lune both above and below the village. The bridge over the Lime probably dates from the thirteenth century, and is as strong to-day as ever. Like many such mediaeval structures, it has the reputation of having been the work of the Devil, a high compliment to his skill and philan- thropy. Ruskin visited the place in 1875, and thus referred to one of its greatest attractions — the walk on the top of a lengthy and luxuriantly wooded scar from which the winding river can be seen to great advantage : " The valley of the Lune at Kirkby is one of the loveliest scenes in England — therefore, in the world. Whatever moor- land hill, and sweet river, and English forest foliage can be at their best, is gathered there ; and chiefly seen from the steep bank which falls to the stream side from the upper part of the town itself. There, a path leads from the churchyard, out of which Turner made his drawing of the valley, along English Lakes (w») 178 SHAP tlie brow of the wooded bank, to open downs beyond ; a little bye footpath on the right descending steeply through the woods to a spring among the rocks of the shore. I do not know in all my own country, still less in France or Italy, a place more naturally divine, or a more priceless possession of true ' Holy Land.' " The Church was restored in 1866 at the expense of the late Earl of Bective, whose seat, Underley Hall, hes a short dis- tance to the north. A fine view of the house can be obtained from a public pathway through the park. A former owner of Casterton (Castleton), a mile and a half north of the station, enjoys a dubious and undeserved fame in the pages of Jane Eyre as head and founder of " the Clergy Daughters' School at Lowood." Middleton Hall, five miles up the valley to the north, is a well-preserved example of fifteenth-century domestic architecture on a large scale. SHAP AND DISTRICT. Shap. Hotels. — See latroductioo. Places of Worship.— S/. Michael's, '0.30 and 6.30 ; WesUyan Chapel, 2 and 6 p.m« Railway.— Shap is on the main line of the London and North-Westem Railway, forty miles from Lancaster, thirty miles from Carlisle. Additional trains call during July, August and September. Cheap day excursion tickets are issued in summer to Grange, Fumess Abbey, Silverdale, Amside, More- cambe, and Windermere. Market-day tickets are issued on Tuesdays to Penrith (11 J miles), whence there is a regular service of conveyances to Ullswater. Each year sees Shap becoming better known as a health- resort, and it is often difficult to find rooms in the village, especially in August. People who want to see Shap at its best should come in June. A feeling of disappointment mil not improbably creep over the tourist on first arriving at this elevated village (872 feet), though the air be pure, fresh and bracing, and the surrounding hills grandly beautiful — a feehng that the place is bleak, bare and grey-looking, especi- ally if the first visit be made on a sunless day. Shap is not one of those places which to look on is to love, but gradually the sense of disappointment wears away and, as a rule, a local saying, applied to natives, becomes a truism with regard to visitors, viz., " Those who have tasted Shap bread and drunk Shap water will long to do so again." To the jaded SHAP 179 man of business, or to the inhabitant of a town where the ifice, e re- and the Dned oak from nder who He lliam ibles the and TO READERS. Every care has been taken td render this volume accurate and trustworthy. But changes take place, both in town and country, with a rapidity which often thwarts the efforts of the most alert and painstaking writer. We should, therefore, esteem it a favour if readers discover- ing errors, either of omission or of commission, in these pages, would promptly inform us. Such communications will be duly acknowledged and the inaccuracies rectified at the earliest opportunity. THE EDITOR. Address — Messrs. Ward, Lock & Co., Ltd., Warwick House, Salisbury Square, London, E.C. 1 the with used I the veral xcep- ;hem. •rince ilady in his : pro- £2 25. Shap rched e dis- )ssing / the shoulder belt of one of his stalwart Highlanders, an Ogilvie. Shap Abbey. A mile from the village is Shap Abbey, the only abbey of which Westmorland can boast. To reach it, leave the high- lyS SHAP the brow of the wooded bank, to open downs beyond ; a httle the A not 1 a pla of tr Th Earl tanc< from A . . nortl in th Dauf M a w archi Hotels Places BaUw; fc Ci a: CI P E€ resoi espei best not this and a fee aUy one of those places which to look on is to love, but gradually the sense of disappointment wears away and, as a rule, a local saying, applied to natives, becomes a truism with regard to visitors, viz., " Those who have tasted Shap bread and drunk Shap water will long to do so again." To the jaded ! SHAP 179 man of business, or to the inhabitant of a town where the air is relaxing, the air of Shap serves as a capital tonic. The old Parish Church (St. Michael's) is a Norman edifice. So early as 11 70 it was appropriated to Shap Abbey. The re- mains of a curious font with a shallow basin, dated 1757, and a sugar-loaf shaped cover of wood, are to be seen in the vestry. The low, embattled tower contains a sweet-toned peal of six bells. The registers date from 1559. An oak frame near the door bearing the initials P.L.W. (taken from one of the pews when the church was restored) is a reminder of a former Lord of the Manor, Phihp, Lord Wharton, who fought against Charles I at Edge Hill, and died 1696. He was the father of the famous Whig statesman of William Ill's reign. Under Lord Wharton's will a number of Bibles and Prayer-books are annually distributed in Shap, the recipients being expected to have learnt the catechism and certain psalms. Close to Market Square is a quaint little building on the west side of the main street, having half -moon windows with diamond-shaped panes. This, the old Market Cross, now used as a parish room, is the only picturesque building in the village. Shap was of old an important coaching centre, and several houses bear seventeenth-century dates, but, with one excep- tion, little of historic or romantic interest attaches to them. The exception is the house known as West Farm, where Prince Charlie stayed a night in the rebellion cf 1745. The landlady had certainly " taken in " the Prince in two senses, for in his household book was found the following entry ; — " 17th Dec, at Shap, Tuesday. To ale, wine, and other pro- visions, £4 1/5. od. ; the landlady, for the use of the house, £2 2S. N.B. — ^The landlady a sad wife for imposing." Altogether the Prince had not a very happy time in the Shap district, for when he and his army left Penrith they marched to Kendal in one day, and the Prince travelled the whole dis- tance on foot (twenty-seven and a half miles). In crossing Shap Fells he was compelled to support himself by the shoulder belt of one of his stalwart Highlanders, an Ogilvie. Shap Abbey. A mile from the village is Shap Abbey, the only abbey of which Westmorland can boast. To reach it, leave the high- i8o SHAP ABBEY road at the north end of the village, at the guide'post, and keep on the Bampton road for two or three hundred yards until the Tithe Barn on the right is reached. Go through a wicket in the second field on the right, just past the barn, and take the upward path, i.e., the one on the left, which leads through three fields, crossing a road between the second and third field. Or the road may be followed the whole way, avoiding the first turn to the left and the next turning to the right. At the last (the fourth) stile, or at the end of the road, the sight of the Abbey breaks in upon what has hitherto seemed a commonplace walk, save for the distant hills. At any time of the year, the abbey tower, standing imposingly in the sheltered valley, cannot fail to arouse admiration for the taste and skill of the architects of old. The situation is unquestionably highly suited for a retreat, for all is peaceful and undisturbed. The trees in the foreground, the Mardale hills beyond, and the river Lowther, near which the ruins stand, all give character to the scene. The ruins once in sight, there is no difficulty in reaching them. In the case of peo- ple no longer active, it is better, in descending, to follow the road leading over the bridge to the abbey farm than the foot- path (a short cut). The ruins are best approached through a wicket, a few yards beyond the tower, close to the farm. The Abbey was founded about 1150 by Thomas, son of Gospatric, a member of a family having large possessions in Cumberland and Westmorland. A portion of these lands he gave to God and St. Mary Magdalene (to whom the Abbey is dedicated), and to the canons of the Praemonstratensian order, for the purpose of building a house at Preston Patrick, in Kendal Ward. For some reason or other this monastery or abbey did not prove to Thomas's satisfaction, so he removed the " White Canons," as they were styled, on account of their dress, to Shap, or Heppe, as it was then called. Mr. W. H. St. John Hope, M.A., says {Transactions of the Cumberland and Westmorland ArchcBological Society) — " The remains of the abbey consist almost entirely of the church and claustral buildings. The various offices that stood in the outer court have utterly perished, including even the gateway — a part of the buildings often spared. , . . The Church was begun very shortly after the foundation, that is circa 1200 and, as usual, at the east end. '"Probably an interval of seventy years elapsed between the commence- ment of the presbytery and the completion of the nave. . . . The west" side, according to Buck's view, taken in 1739, had a large doorway, over which. was a window of five lights with tracery in the head. Since then those features have been much altered ; the tracery of the window has disappeared, SHAP i8i and the jambs have been chopped down to the ground hne, thus forming an arched opening to correspond with the tower arch. Above the window is a good canopied niche, with a hook in the back for the lost image (probably St. Mary- Magdalene)." Unless steps are promptly taken, it is evident that the upper portion of the tower will shortly collapse, as ominous cracks are visible. In the ruins of the chapter house is a stone coffin, probably that of an abbot, but beyond two flat gravestones, one much broken and another having a sword cut along its length, little remains to show that there were any burials here. The last abbot was Richard Evenwode, who Wcis also rector of Kirkby Thore in 1526. He was a schemer, as well as an absentee, for he is credited with having tried to secure the rich hving of Kirkby Thore to the Abbey. Kirkby Thore church, too, had one of the large bells belonging to Shap Abbey in its tower ; perhaps this also was one of the wily Evenwode's transactions. He had the grace when he sur- rendered the abbey, on January 14, 1540, to sign the name of Richard Baggot, probably feehng ashamed of the transaction. He managed to secure a pension of ;^40 a year at the Dissolu- tion. The Granite Works and Quarries in the neighbourhood are of considerable interest. The works, which give employment to a large number of men, are situated at the highest point of the London and North-Western Railway Co.'s system, two miles south of Shap station and one and a half miles north-west of Shap Wells. The quarries are at Wasdale Crag (the highest point of which is 1,749 ft. above sea-level), two miles south from the granite works, and about one and a half miles south-west from Shap Wells. The beautiful felspathic granite from these quarries is in high repute for ornamental as well as for engineering purposes. The quarries and works are readily accessible from either Shap Wells or Shap, being close to the high-road leading from the latter to Kendal. In addition to the working of the granite, the manufacture of artificial stone is extensively carried on. Reference is made in nearly every work on the district of Shap to Carl Lofts. Light may be thrown on the origin of the word " Lofts " by the following, culled from SuUivan's Cumberland and Westmorland, A ncient and Modern : The great boulders of the South of Ireland are accounted for . . . as " the giant's finger-stones." An old man of the neigh- bourhood once explained to an inquirer that " the giants of old used to loft there " — lofting being understood to mean i82 SHAP WELLS throwing stones by heaving. There seems to be a connection between this explanation of the boulders and Carl Lofts (Carl's Lofts). Alas ! Carl Lofts is now no more, though in its neighbourhood remain scattered boulders of granite. A few of the stones may be seen behind Shap station. Some portion of Carl Lofts, having been circular in form, would probably resemble the Druidical erection still standing at Gunnerkeld, but Carl Lofts also formed an avenue of con- siderable length. There is also a Druids' Circle half-way between Shap and the Toll Bar near the railway. Shap Wells. People unacquainted with the locality are apt to conclude that Shap and Shap Wells are one and the same place. Shap Wells, however, is four miles south of Shap station, and is not even in the parish of Shap ; and any one seeking benefit from the mineral waters must go to the Wells. The Wells may be reached from Tebay station (at which expresses stop), a drive of seven miles; or from Shap station (four miles). Should visitors require to be met at Shap station or Tebay, notice must be given to Shap Wells. The Shap Wells Hotel is situated in a hollow, sheltered from the blasts which blow over Shap Fells. Here one can wander at will on the fell, breathing the pure mountain air ; or, on a hot day, shelter in the pleasant pine wood, through which runs a mountain beck, near the house. A little way up the wood is to be found the pump, from which one can drink, without cost, the mineral water, which is of con- siderable medicinal value. The charge for a mineral water bath is two shillings. Outdoor recreations include tennis, good trout fishing and golf (a nine-hole course). From the Monument, near the Wells, erected in com- memoration of the accession of Queen Victoria, a commanding view is obtained. The Beacon (one and a half miles) is another favourite short walk from the Wells ; for from it can be seen Kidsty Pike, which towers over Mardale, Cross Fell, Ingleborough, etc. At the Black Dub (two and a quarter miles) we learn from an inscription on an obelisk that Charles II regaled his army at the spring on their march from Scotland on August 8, 1651. The following are favourite drives: Hawes Water (15 miles) ; EXCURSIONS FROM SHAP 183 Lowther Castle (about 11 miles) ; Crosby Ravensworth (8 miles) — a pretty village in a valley, possessing one of the finest churches in the diocese of Carlisle ; High Borrow Bridge (6 miles) ; Low Borrow Bridge (7^ miles), Shap Abbey (6). Tebay. This pretty little place, which is exactly twelve miles from Kendal, Kirkby Stephen and Appleby, and not far from Shap and Sedbergh, is much neglected as a centre. The accom- modation, if plain, is good and cheap, and there is capital anghng. EXCURSIONS FROM SHAP. I. To Gunnerkeld. To reach the Druids' Circle at Gunnerkeld, proceed along the Penrith road, over the Skew Bridge, until the first turning to the right, when a guide-post directs to Sleagill. Turn in the Sleagill direction, avoid the first turn to the left, and keep straight on until there comes into view a very rocky bit of country. Go through the gate on the left side of the road and follow a footpath which leads through four fields. The Druidical remains are in the fourth field, at Gunnerkeld Bottoms. There are two circles, the inner very decidedly, the outer less well marked. II. To Swindale and Mardale. Swindale, about three and a half miles west of Shap, over the fell (six miles by road), is well worth a visit. It resembles Mardale, save that it has no lake. At the head of the valley is a waterfall. Swindale may be reached either via Keld or Shap Abbey, the Keld route being more central and, if anything, the easier. There are several footpaths from Shap to Keld. When the main road to Swindale is reached, keep to the left and go straight on, past the chapel, to the waterfall. If a cHmb over the hills to Mardale be in contemplation, walk about three-quarters of a mile beyond the stepping-stones, to the left, to where a bridle-road turns off on the right. The track turns first to the right and then to the left at the rise ; when it comes to more level ground it is rather faint. This road was much more traversed at one time, being known as the " corpse road, "as the Mardale dead were conveyed along it to Shap. Looking down from the top, Mardale and its sur- rounding hills make a very charming picture. The track into 1 84 BA MPTON— PENRITH the valley is quite clear, terminating close to the Dun Built There is a restful calm about Mardale Chapel — an interest- ing little building nestling amid splendid old yews. Though small, as beiits the valley, it is complete, and has every appearance of being well cared for. The door is always on the latch. The registers date from 1684 ; but Mardale names occur in the Shap registers, Shap being the mother church. The massive oak beams which support the roof are trunks of large trees, rough-hewn into shape. III. To Bampton. Hotel. — See Introduction. Places of Worship. — St. Patrick's Church, 10.30 and 6.30. Wesleyan, 2 and 6.30. Postal. — The post-town for the district is Penrith. Letters should be addressed Bampton, Penrith. There is a telegraph office in the village. Posting. — To Penrith on Tuesdays, 2s. Bampton, close to which the river Lowther runs, is a quiet village, about five miles from Shap station by road and two and a half from Hawes Water. There is a pleasant walk from Shap through the fields via Rosgill and Hegdale. Owing to its proximity to fishing streams and the lake, Bampton is a favourite resort of anglers. The Church, restored a few years ago, is very ancient. In the gravej^ard are some in- teresting records of famous Bamptonians ; one especially notable, in the porch, commemorates the Rev. John Bow- stead, fifty-six years master of the old Grammar School ; a man who boasted, " I've eddecated three hundert priests, I hev, et hev eh " ; and the old man certainly did turn out some first-rate scholars. PENRITH 185 PENRITH. Banks. — Liverpool, Carlisle and Cumberland, Whitehaven Joint Stock, York City and County. Golf. — Nine-hole course, is. day ; 2S. 6d. week ; 5s. month. Hotels. — See Introduction. Places of Worship. — St. Andrew's, St. Saviour's, Christ Church, Roman Catholic, Congregational, Friends, Presbyterian, Primitive Methodist, Wesleyan, and others. Sports. — Golf, cricket, bowls, swimming. Excursions. — Pooley Bridge and Ullswater. Howtown. Dalemain and Aira Force. Patterdale. Hawes Water. Eden Hall and Long Meg. Nunnery Walks. Greystoke Castle. Keswick (and most of the Keswick coach excursions). Shap WeUs. Brougham Castle, Brougham Hall, Lowther Lodge, King Arthur's Round Table and Mayborough. Eamont, Lowther Lodge, Brougham Hall, Clifton, Lowther Park and Castle, Askham, Tirril, Ullswater and Dalemain. Pooley Bridge (coach), Ullswater (steamer), Ambleside by the Kirk- stone Pass (coach), Keswick by Rydal, Grasmere and Thirlmere (coach), and back by rail. Nine lakes are seen on this tour. Three hours (giving time for a sail on Windermere) are allowed at Amble- side. Ambleside, returning by Keswick (rail, coach, steamer). Fares by arrangement. Large parties conveyed in brakes at moderate terms. The Ullswater Steam Navigation Company maintain during the season an admirable and cheap motor, coach and steamboat service between Penrith and Patterdale. Fares : coach from Penrith to Pooley Bridge or vice versd, single, 2s. ; return, 2s. 6d. From Pooley Bridge to Patterdale by steamer {see p. 135). N.B. — The coaches from Pooley Bridge do not undertake to catch the Keswick train at Penrith. Penrith is the junction for Northern Lakeland, and many tourists on their way to or from Scotland take advantage of the option given them to break journey here in order to see something of Ullswater and its surroundings. The town, one of the oldest in the North, has an interesting history. It figured prominently in all the wars between Scots and Enghsh, and was several times sacked — notably in the reigns of Edward III and Richard III. The latter monarch is reported to have lived on one occasion at the castle, and on another at the Gloucester Arms Hotel (Dock- wray Hall), over the doorway of which are his arms. The town is overlooked by the ruins of a Castle, supposed to have been built by the Nevilles. During the contest with Charles I it passed into the hands of the Commonwealth. The castle was subsequently dismantled, and became the property of the Dukes of Portland, who sold it in 1783 to the Duke of Devonshire. It is likely to become public property, the gardens being laid out as a park. The Parish Church, 1 86 AROUND PENRITH rebuilt in 1722, has an old tower, the higher portion of which was built by Warwick the Kingmaker. It still displays the bear and ragged staff, the device of the Warwicks. The church contains portraits of the father and mother of Richard III, in stained glass. In the churchyard is a singular monu- ment, caUed the Giant*s Grave, traditionally affirmed to have been intended to perpetuate the memory of a legendary giant, one Owen Caesarius. It consists of two stone pillars (obviously ancient cross-shafts) , standing at the head and foot of a grave, with two other stones on each side of the space. If the grave contains the remains of the giant, he must have well deserved the title, for the stones are fifteen feet apart. Near these stones is another, the Giant's Thumb, so called from two holes at the top, said to be the size of the giant's thumbs. The stones are covered with Runic and other carv- ings. At Eden Hall, situated amid lovely scenery in the valley of the Eden, is preserved the celebrated " luck," a curious cup which forms the subject of a poem by Uhland, translated by Longfellow. It has the appearance of a Venetian vase or a sacramental chahce, and legends are busy with its origin, for it is not certainly known how it came to the family. The generally-accepted tale is that a servant surprised some fairies dancing at the well, and seized the drinking-cup which they were using. As he dechned to restore it, the offended fays left it with him with a warning that — " If e'er that glass should break or fall, Farewell the luck of Eden Hall." A bridge over the river of the same name at the village of Eamont divides the counties of Westmorland and Cumber- land. ^ In this neighbourhood, in which are many Lowthers, Howards, and Musgraves, much fighting and many stirring incidents have taken place, as the old castles testify. The ruins of Brougham Castle are about a mile and a half south-east of Penrith. The village of Brougham (" castle- town ") is the Brovacum of the Romans ; the castle was held by the Viteriponts and De CUffords. Wordsworth's Song at ihe Feast of Brougham Castle^ upon the restoration of Lord 1 The ion near the bridge has a picture of a Highlander and an Englishman shaking hands. Beneath is the inscription, " Welcome here in Cumberland," so placed that it cannot fail to greet the stranger coming from Westmorland, and remind him of the proverbial hospitality of the " Cumberland lads." Over the door we read, " Omne solum torti patrU est." PENRITH TO ULLSWATER 187 Clifford, the shepherd, to the estates and honours of his ancestors, is part of the household lore of the family. The outer walls of the castle are in fair preservation, but the interior marks the progress of time since 161 7, when James I was a guest for three days. Brougham Hall (the seat of Lord Brougham), about three- quarters of a mile from the ruins of the castle, has been long in the possession of the Brougham family. LoWther Castle, five miles south of Penrith, is the seat of the Earl of Lonsdale. It stands in a beautiful park, of which the distinguishing feature is the large size and age of the oaks. The German Emperor has more than once honoured this " Windsor of the North " by a visit. There are some interesting archaeological remains in the neighbourhood of Penrith. From Beacon Hill (966 ft. high), north of the town and about a mile from the station, a mag- nificent view is obtained. Near NeWton Regny, north-west of the town, is an old Camp. Some six miles north-east of the town, on the summit of an eminence near Little Salkeld, is one of the most important Druidical circles in England, called Long Meg and Her Daughters. The " daughters," some of them ten feet high, form a circle, 350 yards in cir- cumference, of sixty-seven stones. Long Meg herself, a square unhewn column of red freestone, fifteen feet in cir- cumference and eighteen feet high, stands seventeen paces from the southern side of the circle. Penrith to Ullswater. Many regular visitors to the Lakes declare — not without cause — that the route via Penrith, Pooley Bridge and Ulls- water to Patterdale is the most picturesque one by which to enter the district. Taking seats on the coach at Penrith station, we follow the course of De Vaux's page, when — " He passed red Penrith's Table round, For feats of chivalry renown' d ; Left Maybrough's mound and stones of power, By Druids raised in magic hour ; And traced the Eamont's wiading way, Till Ulfo's Lake beneath him lay." Leaving the town, and crossing the bridge over the Eamont, we see in a field to the left a curious relic, known as King Arthur's Round Table, a circular area about twenty yards in diameter surrounded by a fosse and mound, with two opposite approaches. It is believed to have been a tilting- 1 88 PENRITH TO ULLSWATER ground, the embankment accommodating the spectators. It may have been the scene of the oldest and most brutal of duels, the girdle-duel. Visitors to Stockholm will remember the bas-rehef of the " girdle-dueUists " near the National Museum. This savage manner of settling a quarrel obtained in England also in the " good old times," and the " holme- gang," according to Mr. Fergusson, was practised within these great circles. The combatants were strapped together and fought to the death. Before beginning, each combat- ant drove his knife into a block of wood, and the portion not embedded was wrapped round with a leather thong. The weapons were then withdrawn and, of course, the stronger blow secured the longer blade. On the opposite side of the road, and higher up the river, is May borough, an area eighty yards in diameter, surrounded by a mound of pebbles. In the centre is a large block of unhewn stone, eleven feet high, believed to have been a place of Druidical judicature. Another road from Penrith to Pooley Bridge would con- duct us along the west bank of the Eamont. Passing the mansion of Dalemain and its park, we cross a stream called the Dacve, or Dacer, which name it bore as early as the time of the Venerable Bede. It is a tributary of the Eamont, rising in the moorlands above Matterdale, and flowing down by the ancient mansion of Hutton John and Dacre Castle. We reach the lake at Waterfoot, and turning to the left come, in about a mile, to Pooley Bridge from which the steamer conveys us up lovely Ulls water to Patterdale {see pp. 135-7 and 130). For Index, see pp. 189—192. 205tb l|)cav of tbe SUN FIRE OFFICE FOUNDED 1710. Insurances effected against the following risks : FIRE DAMAGE. RESULTANT LOSS OF RENT AND PROFITS. PERSONAL ACCIDENT. SICKNESS AND DISEASE. FIDELITY GUARANTEE. BURGLARY. PLATE GLASS. EMPLOYERS' LIABILITY AND WORKMEN'S COMPENSATION, Includina; ACCIDENTS TO DOMESTIC SERVANTS. CHIEF OFFICK— 63, THREADNEEDLE STREET, LONDON, E.G. Branches throughout the World. Agencies Everywhere, THE OLDEST INSURANCE OFFICE IN THE WORLD. Series, to face matter at end, J914-15.] Your Holiday will be much more enjoyable if you have a Wate®ian*s (Ideal) FountaSriPeii (SAFETY STYLE). Put it in your bag or pocket upside down, anyhow, and this particular type of Waterman's Ideal will not leak. It cannot. It is sealed when open and sealed when closed. Perfect also in all other respects. Of Stationers and Jewellers everywhere. Booklet free from L. & G. HARDTMUTH, Ltd., Kingsway, London. (New York : 173, Broadway.) ii:)jif On your tour think to drop a " Vaseline " Medicine Chest into your bag, and you will have with you — always ready — the finest emergency equipment in the world. CONTENTS. IS. Tube Capsicum "Vaseline"^ Chest colds, etc. E.xternal application. IS. Tube Carbolated "Vaseline" — Cuts, wounds, etc. IS. Tube Camphorated "Vase- line" — Gout, Rhcuniatisni, etc. IS. Tube Mentholated " Vaseline " — Headache, Toothache, etc. IS. Tube Borated "Vaseline" — Nasal Catarrh, etc. 8d. Tube Pure Plain "Vaseline" — General use. Colds inter- nally. Splendid emollient and antiseptic. At any Chemist or post free, 45. gd. Chcscbrough Mfg. Co., 42, Holborn Viaduct, London. DrJ.CoUis Browi CHLORODY The RELIABLE MEDICINE which has been used with unvarying success by Doc- tors and the Pubhc for upwards of 60 years. THE BEST REMEDY KNOWN FOR Coughs, Colds, Asthma, Bronchitis. A true Palhative in NEURALGIA, TOOTHACHE, GOUT, RHEUMATISx\L Effectually cuts short attacks"^of SPASMS, HYSTERIA, and PALPITATION. Checks and arrests FEVER, CROUP, and AGUE. Acts like a Charm In DIARRH(EA and other Complaints of the Boive/s. Of all Chemists. i/ii. 2/9. and 4/6 Always ask fora'DR.GOLUS BROWNE." NEVER TRA\EL WITHOUT A BOTTLE. The Most Comfortable Tea Rooms ARE 209 REGENT STREET | 206 RECENT STREET 63 ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD 358 STRAND, W.C. 42 BUCKINGHAM PALACE ROAD {Outside Victoria Station} And Branches Throughout London. EDINBURGH: 120 Princes St. GLASGOW: 99 Buchanan St. LIVERPOOL: 33 Bold St 10 Dale St. MANCHESTER: 42 King St. LEEDS: 32 Bond St. CHESTER: 27 Eastgate St. BRISTOL : 24 College Green. SOUTHSEA: 72 Palmerston Road. BRIGHTON: 14 East St. DUBLIN : 84 Grafton St. PLYMOUTH : 50 George St. a^ Sweets, Cakes ^ Chocolates ean he obtained from AGENTS IN ALL PRINCIPAL TOWNS. To face Index.] INDEX Where more than one reference is given, the first is the principal. AiRA Force, 133 Allan Bank, 86 Allithwaite, 162 Ambleside, 79-80, 76, 88, 93 Angling, 38-41 Applethwaite, 118 Area of District, 17 Armathwaite, 125 Armboth Rocks, 124 Amside, 159 Amside Knott, 159 Ashness Bridge, 115 Backbarrow, 164 Bampton, 184 Barf, 125, 128 Bannockstone Bridge, 97 Bamscar, 141 Barrow Fall, 113 [165 Barrow-in-Furness, 102, Barton Fell, 136 Bassenthwaite Lake, 118, 125 Beacon Hill, 187 Beetham, 160 Bela, The, 39, 160 Belle Isle, 74 Biggar, 102 Birker Fell, 142 Birker Force, 142 Birker Moor, 143 Bishop Rock, The, 125 Black Combe, 166-7 Black Dub, The, 182 Black Sail, 156 Blake Holme, 73 Blawith Church, 166 Blea Crag, 152 Blea Tarn, 97 Bleawick Bay, 134 Boardale, 133 Boating, 41 Boot, 142 Bootle, 167-8 Borrowdale, 116 Borrowdale Yews, 155 Botany, 31 Bowder Stone, The, 116 Bowfell, 144, 62, 63 Bowls, 41 Bowness, 70-72, 74, 93 Bowscale Fell, 59 Braithwaite, 119, 125 Bram Crag, 118 Brant Fell, 75 Brandelhow Park, 114 Brantwood, 89 Brathay, The, 75, 79, 88 Broadgate, 167 Brothers' Parting, 87 Brothers' Water, 103-4 Brougham, 186-7 Broughton, 166, 91 Broughton Tower, 166 Brundholme Woods, 118 Buckbarrow (Longsled- dale), 175 Bummoor, 144 Buttermere Fells, 128-9 Buttermere Lake, 12 1-2, 119 Buttermere Mountain Group, 60-1, 36 Buttermere Village, 122 Caistone Glen, 152 Calder, the, 142, 170 Calder Abbey, 170 Calder Bridge, 170 Calgarth Hall, 74 Cark, 162 Carl Lofts, 181 Camforth Junction, 158, 20 Carrs, 69 Cartmel, 162-3 Cartmel Fell Church, 76 Casterton, 178 Castle Crag (Borrowdale), 116 Castle Crag (St. John's Vale), 118 Castle Head, 112 Catbells, 114 Caudale Moor, 103, 105 Causey Pike, 127 Chapel Fell, 62 Chapel Island, 163 Chum, The, 115 Circular Tours, 21-2 Clappersgate, 84, 97 Climate, 26-7 Coaches and carriages, 23 189 Cocker, The, 171, 40 Cockermouth, 171 Coledale Pass, 157 Colwith Bridge, 97 Colwith Force, 81 Conishead Priory, 164 Coniston Lake, 89, 166 Coniston Moor, 91 Coniston Mountain Group, 68-9, 108, 37 Coniston Old Man, 108, 68, 69, 166 Coniston Village, 88-89, 94, 96, 98 Crake, The, 165 Crinkle Crags, 62 Crosthwaite Church, 118 Crummock Water, 120, 122 Cunsey Beck, 95 Curwen Island, 74 Cycling Routes, 53-7 Dacre, The, 188 Dalegarth Force, 142 Dalegarth Hall, 142 Dalehead, 64, 122, 126 Dalemain, 188 Dallam Tower, 160 Dalton, 165 Deepdale, 104 Derwent Fishery District, 40-41 Derwent Island, 112 Derwent, The, 171 Derwentwater, 111-114 Devil's Elbow, The, 122 Devoke Water, 141 Dove Cottage, 85 Dove Crag, 106 Dove Nest, 75 Dow Crag, 69 Drigg, 169 Drives, 23, 24, 93, 120 131. 175 Droomer Farm, 75 Druidical Circle (Kes- wick), 117 Duddon, The, 39 Duddon Bridge, 91 Duddon Valley, The, 91- 2, 167 IQO INDEX Dungeon Ghyll, 97-8, 88 Dunmail Raise, 87, 83, 125 Dun Mallet, 136 Eagle Crag, 121, 152 Eamont, 186 Easedale Tarn, 86 Ecclerigg, 74 Eden Hall, 186 Eel Crags (Newlands), 126 Eel Crags (Grasmoor), 127 EUeray, 71, 74, 76 Elterwater, 81, 98 Embleton, 126 Ennerdale, 148-9, 157, 170 Esk, The, 142 Esk Falls, 143 Esk Hause, 62, 154, 156 Eskdale, 141, 153 Esthwaite Water, 95 Eusemere Villa, 136 Fairfield, 66-7, 69, 106 Fairy Cavern, 116 Fairy Steps, 160 Falcon Crag, 114, 113 Far Easedale, 151 Fells, The, 104-8, 126-9, 137-140 Finsthwaite, 73, 164 Fir Island, 89 Fisher Crag, 124 Flectwith Pike, 64, 122 Floating Island, Der- wentwater, 112 Flookburgh, 162 Floutcm Tarn, 157 Force Bridge and Fall, 174 Fox Ghyll, 82 Fox How, 82 Friar's Crag, 11 1 Frith Hall, 91 Froswick, 68, 78, 104 Fumess Abbey, 98-101, 165 Garburn Pass, 153 Gash Rock, 152 Gatescarth Pass, 157, 1 74, 176 Gatesgarth, 121 Geology, 27-9 Gillerthwaite, 6r Glaramara, 62,5127, 121 Glencoin, 137 Glenridding, 132 Glossary, 51-2 Goatswater, 69 Goldrill Beck, 104 Golf Links, 41-2 Gosforth, 170 Gowbarrow Park, 133 Grain Ghyll, 156 Grange, 113 Grange-over-Sands, 1 61 Grasmere, 84-6, 93 Grasmere Lake, 83 Grasmoor 60, 127, 35 Grass^Holme, 73 Great Calva, 60 Great Gable, 63-4, 145, 148, 36 Great How Crags, 69 Great Langdale, 98 Great Rigg, 106 Great Scoatfell, 62 Great Wood, 113 Greenodd, 165 Greenup, 151, X2i Greta Hall, iio-iii Grey Friar, 69 Grisedale Pike, 60, 127 Grisedale Tarn, 86, 132 Grizedale, 91 Gummers How, 163 Gunnerkeld, 183 Hag Ghvll, 79 Hag Ghyll Force, 79 Hallin Fell, 136, 13a Hallsteads, 136 Hampsfell, 161 Hardknott, 153-4 Harrison Stickle, 97 Hart Crag, 106 Harter Fell (Eskdale), 63, 143 Harter Fell (Mardale), 68, 175 Hause Ghyll, 121 Haverbrack Common, 160 Hawes Bridge, 174 Hawes Water, 139-140, 175 Hawkshead, 95-7 Hawl Ghyll, 145 Haycock, 62 Helm Crag (Grasmere), 88 Helm Crag (Kendal), 174 Helvellyn, 137-8, 66-7, 108, 127, 37 Herdhouse, 61 Heversham, 160 Heysham, 158 High Raise, 65-6, 36, 107, 127 High Raise (High Street), 63 High Skelgill, 106 High Street, 140, 67-8, 78. 37 HiffH Sweden Bridge, 81 High Wray, 74 Hindscarth, 126 Hoad Hill, 164 Hobcarton, 60 Holker Hall, 163 Holmrook, 169 Honister Crag, 121, 12X Honister Hause, 121 Honister Round, 12 1-3 Howtown, 136 Humphrey Head, i6z Hunting, 42 III Bell, 68, 78, 104 , Irt, The, 169, 14a Irton, 143, 169 Jknkik Crag, 80 Jenkin-sike, 89 < Kail Pot, The, 136 Keld, 183 Kendal, 172-3, 160 Kent Fishery District, 39 Kent Viaduct, 159 Kent's Bank, 161 Kentmere, 79 Keskadale, 122 Keswick, 109-iri, 93 Vale of, 125 Kidsty Pike, 68 King Arthur's Roimd Table, 187 Kirkby Lonsdale, 17 7-8 Kirkfell, 64 Kirkstone Pass, 103, 78 KnoU, The, 82, 49 Ladder Brow, 114 Ladye's Holme, 74 Lady's Rake, 113 Lake-Side. 72-3, 76, 165 Lakeland Railways, 20 Lakes, dimensions of, 33 Lancaster, 158 Langdale Pikes, 97,107-8, 65 Langstrath, 121, 152,154 Launchy Gill, 124 Leven Estuary, 163 Levens Hall, 176-7. 160 Ling Crag, 122 Ling Holipe, 73 Lingmoor Fell, 97 Literary Associationsjof the Lake District, 44-51 Little Langdale, 97 Loadpot Hill, 68 Lodore Falls, 113 Upper Falls, 115 Long Meg and her Daugh- ters, 187 INDEX 191 Longsleddale, I57,i75ii74 Long Tongue, 73 Lonscale Fell, 59 Lord's Island, 112 Lord's Rake, 146 Lord's Seat, 125, 128 Lorton, Vale of, 126 Loughrigg Fell, 84, 104 Loughrigg Tarn, 88 Low Sweden Bridge, 81 Lowes Water, 157 Loweswater Village, 120 Lowick Bridge, 165 Lowick Green, 165 Lowther Castle, 186 Lune Fishery District, 40 Manksty, 113 Mardale, 184, 140, 176 Martindale, 136 Martineau, Harriet, 49, 8a Mayborough, 188 Measand Beck, 140 Melbreak, 61, 129 Mickledore Ridge, 143 Middleton Hall, 178 Millbeck, 118 Mill Beck, 98 Miller Bridge, 84 Miller Brow, 76 Milnthorpe, 160 Mite, the, 142 Miterdale, 168 Moor Divock, 136 Morecambe, 158-9 Mortal Man Inn, 77 Motoring Routes, 53-7 Mountaineering, 42-3 Mountains, Heights of, 35-7 Muncaster Fell and Cas- tle, 168 Nab Cottage, 82 Nab Scar, 106 Naddle Forest, 139 Nan Bield Pass, 153 Natural History, 30-33 Newby Bridge, 165, 76 Newlands, 119 Newlands Mountain Group, 64-5 36, 119 Newton Regny, 187 North Scale, 102 Old Corruption, 83 Orrest Head, 75 Ouse Bridge, 118, 125 Papcastle, 171 Passes, The, 150-157 Heights of, 34 Pasture Beck, 152 Patterdale, 130, 103 Pavey Ark, 97 Pedestrians, Outline Guide for, 58-69 Peel Island, 89 Peel Wyke, 125 Pelter Bridge, 84 Penny Bridge, 165 Penrith, 185-6 Plel Island, 102 Pike o' Blisco, 63 Pike o' Stickle, 97 Pile of Fouldrey, 102 Pillar Fell, 149 Pillar Mountain, 61-2, 36 Pillar Rock, 149 Place Fell, 67, 139, 137 Ponsonby Hall, 170 Pooley Bridge, 188 Portinscale, 114, 119 Priest's Pot, 95 Pull Wyke Bay, 106 Railways, 20 Rainsborrow Crag, 79 Ramp Holme (Winder- mere), 73 Ramp's Holme (Derweat- water), H2 Raven Crag, 124- Ravenglass, 168 Rawlinson Nab, 73 Rayrigg, 74 Red Bank, 98 Red Pike (Buttermere) 61, 129 Red Pike (Wasdale), 61 Red Screes, 67, 103, 106 Red Tarn, 138 Riggindale Beck, 140 Robinson, 126 Rock of Names, 123 Romney, George, 102 Rossett Ghyll, 154 Rosthwaite, 116, 121, 152 Rosthwaite Fell, 62 Rothay, The, 75, 79 Routes to the Lake Dis- trict, 19-20 Rowrah Station, 148 Rush-bearing, 85, 80 Ruskin, John — Grave of, 89 Monument to, 112 Museum, 89 Rusland, 73 Rydal Hall, 82, 84 Mount, 84 Vale of, 82 Water, 82-3, 84 Waterfalls, 82 Saddleback, 59, 128 Sallng, 43 St. Bees, 171 St. Bees Head, 171 St. Herbert's Island, 112 St. John, Vale of, 117 St. Mary's Hohne, 74 St. Sunday Crag, 139, 137 Sandside, 159 Santon Bridge, 169 Satterthwaite, 91 Sawrey, 95 Scafell, 146-7, 63 Scafell Group, 146-8, 62- 3. 36 Scafell Pike, 146, 63, 143 Scale Beck, 122 Scale Force, 122 Scale Hill, 60, 126 Scandale, 81, 152 Scarf Gap, 156, 61 Scout Scar, 174 Screes, The, 145 Seascale, 169 Seasons, 27 Seat Sandal, 67, 87 Seathwaite (Dunnerdale), 91-2 ; Borrowdale,i55 Seathwaite Fell, 63 Seatoller, 121 Sedgwick, 174 " Seldom Seen " Cot tages, 137 Sellafield, 170 Sellapark Hall, 170 Shap, 178-182 Shap District, Fi shing in 39 Shap Wells, 182 Silecroft, 167 Silver Holme, 73 Silver Point, 137 Silverdale, 159 Sizergh Castle, 174 Skelly Nab, 136 Skelwith Bridge, 81, 97 Skelwith Force, 81 Skiddaw, 59, 125, 128 Skiddaw Forest, 59 Skiddaw and Saddleback Mountain Group, 59- 60, 35 Skiddaw Terrace, ii8 Slater's Bridge, 97 Sour Milk Ghyll, 151 Spark Bridge, 165 Sports and Amusements, 38-43 Sprinkling Tarn, 155 Stake Pass, The, 132 Stanley Ghyll, 142 Starling Dodd, 61 Statesmen, The, 29-30 Staveley Station, 133, 192 INDEX Steamers, 23 Steel Fell, 87 Sticks Pass, 155, 117-8 Stock Ghyll Force, 80, 78, 105 Stonethwaite, 152 Storrs Hall, 73, 76 Strands, 144, 169 Stye Head, The, 155 Stye Head Pass, 155 Stye Head Tarn, 148, 155 Stybarrow Dodd and Crag, 137 Summer Hill, 165 Swarthmoor Hall, 164 Sweden Bridge, 81 Swindale, 183 Swinside, 167 Tarn Hows, 90, 96 Taylor Ghyll Force, 155 Tebay, 183 Tennis, 43 Thirlmere, 123-4, 87-8 Thirlspot, 117, 123 Thomthwaite, 125 Thornthwaite Crag, 68, 104 Three Shire Stone, 153 Three Tarns, 144 Threlkeld, 118 Thresthwaite Hause and Cove, 68, 152 Thurston Mere. See Coniston Lake. Tilberthwaite, 90, 97 Tom Ghyll, 90 Tongue Ghyll and Force, 86 Torver, 166 Town Head, 73 Travellers' Rest, 103 Trestermont, 136 Troutbeck, The, 75 Troutbeck Park, 79 Troutbeck Tongue, 78 Troutbeck Valley, 78-9 Troutbeck Village, 77, 152 Troutdale, 113 Ullscarf, 66, 128 Ullswater, 135-7 Ulpha, 91 Ulverston, 163-4 Underley Hall, 178 ViCKERSTOWN, 102 Wakefield Musical Festival, 173 Waberthwaite, 168 Walker, Rev. Robert, 92 Walking, 24, 25, 58-69, 75, 80, 86, 90, III, 119, 132 Walla Crag, 113, 114 Wallow Crag, 140 Walna Scar, 154, 92 Walney Island, 102 Walls Castle and Camp, 168 Wansfell, 78 Wansfell Holme, 75 Wansfell Pike, 105-6 Wanthwaite Crags, 118 Wasdale Crag, 181 Wasdale, 144-6 Wasdale Head, 144, 145 Wastwater, 143, 169 Watendlath, 115 Waterhead, 80, 73 Weather Hill, 67 Week-end Tours, 23-4 West Cumberland Fish- ery District, 41 Wet Sleddale, 176 Whinlatter Pass, 126 White Combe, 167 White Ghyll, 98 Whitehaven, 171 Windennere, 70-72, 93, 125, 165 Lake, 72-5 Winter Sports, 43 Wishing Gate, 83 Woodend Station, 148 Wordsworth and the Lake District, 44-49 Residence of, 85-6 Wordsworth's Seat, 82 Workington, 171 Wray Castle, 74 Wraysholme Tower, 162 Wrynose, 153 Wythburn, 124, 88 Yewbarrow (Grange), 161 Yewbarrow (Wasdale), 62, 145 Yew Crag, 88, 121 Yew dale, 97 Yews of Borrowdale, 155 Yoke, 78, 79 Butler & Tanner, The Selwood Printing Worlcs, Frome, and London. INDEX. PAGE General Advertisers . . . . i to 6, 24, & 96 Railway and Steamer Routes . . . . 7 to 23 Hotels, Hydros, &c 25 to 83 Estate Agents, &c. 85 to 91 LAW FIRE INSURANCE SOCIETY LIMITED, No. 114, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON, W.C X- X xc. xs. Personal Accident and Disease. Burglary. Fidelity Guarantee. Workmen's Compensation, including Domestic Servants. Property Owner's Indemnity. Third Party. Motor Car. Plate Glass. BONDS. — The Directors desire to draw special attention to the fact that the Fidelity Bonds of this Society are accepted by His Majesty's Government and in the High Court of Justice. CHARLES PLUMPTRE JOHNSON, Esq., J. P., Chairman (formerly of Johnson, Raymond-Barker & Co., Lincoln's Inn). ROMER WILLIAMS, Esq., D.L., J. P., Vice-Chairman (Williams & James), Norfolk House, Thames Embankment. Secretary— H. T. OWEN LEGGATT. Assist. Sec— ARTHUR E. C. WHITE. SECURITY UNSURPASSED, Every facility is afforded for the transaction of Insurance business on the most favour- able terms, and surveys, where necessary, are undertaken by the Society free of charge. Prospectuses and Proposal Forms and full information may be had at the Society s Office. The business of this Society is confined to the United Kingdom. Series 1914-15.] VISITORS' DELIGHT. FALK'S TABLE SALT ©btafneD from all (Brocers. IN PENNY or HALF-PENNY PACKETS. -K^4 IT HAS THE LARGEST SALE IN THE WORLD. • CO i— Brea kfast & after D inner. In making, use less quantit y, it being so much stronger than ORDINARY COFFEE. o ■0 9 C 3 IL T1 c 3 a A 01 o SH IP RAM'S "CHICHESTER" BRAND. Soups, Tongues, Potted Meats, Fish Pastes. Thoasands enjoy these daily. VISITORS should call and see FRITHS PICTORIAL POSTCARDS A Large Series of LOCAL Subjects. Can be obtained from principal Stationers. Be sure and see you get FRITH'S. KEATINGS POWDER BUGS FLEAS 'mosquitos ^ FLIES ^< BEETLES KEATINGS 11 POWDEF^ SM''«'!»S INSECTS EVERY ONE KILLED When packing your bag don't forget the KEATING'S POWDER. It may make all the difference between an enjoyable holiday and a miserable one. Tins can be obtained from any Chemist or Grocer. Id., Sd., 6d., and Is., each. Be sure you get the genume article, with the signature. THOMAS KEATING, on the red band round every tm. COMMERCIAL UNION ASSURANCE COMPANY, LIMITED, IN WHICH IS NOW MERGED THE HAND-IN-HAND FIRE & LIFE INSURANCE SOCIETY. FIRE— LIFE— MA RINE—A CCIDENT. CAPITAL FULLY SUBSCRIBED £2,950,000 CAPITAL PAID UP . . LIFE FUNDS SPECIAL TRUST FUNDS :— " West of England " "Hand-in-Eand".. " Union Life Fund " OTHER ASSETS- TOTAL 31st December £295.000 . . £5,235,415 £549,963 . . £3,768,932 . . £4,057,027 .. £10,173,149 1912 £23,784,486 TOTAL ANNUAL INCOME EXCEEDS £8.000.000 Head Office— 24, 25, & 26, CORNHILL, LONDON, E.C. Hand-in-Hand Office— 26, New Bridge Street, LONDON. E.C. The following classes of Insurances effected : — FIRE, LIFE, and ANNUITIES, MARINE, LEASEHOLD, REDEMP- TION, and SINKING FUND, ACCIDENT, including Personal Accident, Third Party, Burglary, Plate Glass, FideHty Guarantee, Employers' Liability, and Workmen's Compensation. The Company will act as TRUSTEES and EXECUTORS under Wills. Prospectuses and all information needful for effecting Assurances may be obtained at any of the Company's Offices or Agencies throughout the World. Tomato Catsup Ask for it at your hotel. When taking your holiday at the Seaside it will add to your enjoyment if you have G D Catsup with your fish or meat. 3cl., 6d., 9d., and 1/- pen Bottle At all Grocers and Stores. Simply ask your Grocer for a bottle of GD TOMATO CATSUP Rail\A^ay, Steamer and Forwarding Agents' Directory. INDEX. RAILWAYS — PAGE Belgian State Railway 14 Cambrian Railway . . 11 Dublin and South Eastern Railway . . 19 Furness Railway . . 12 Glasgow and South Western Railway . . 13 Great Northern Rail- way . . . . . . 10 Great Western Rail- way . . . . . . 15 London and South Western Railway . . 16 South Eastern and Chatham Railway . . 17 West and South Clare Railways . . . . 18 STEAMERS- PAGE British & Irish Steam Packet Co. . . . . 20 General Steam Navi- gation Co. . . . . 23 Leith, Hull, and Ham- burg Steam Packet wO* • • • • • • 21 Liverpool and North Wales Steam Packet Co., Ltd. . . . . ig MacBrayne, D., Ltd. .. 22 Curtiss & Sons, Ltd., Depositories.. .. 9 Forwarding Agents ARE YOU REMOVING? WRITE FOR ESTIMATE TO GURTISS & SONS, LTD. u ^^ O a> OS o - OS CO o o (4 a o .2 ^ bo o (A CO a> n be CO CD CO >> ' ^-J rr OS 1^ ^ ^ 00 W K i-t O Pk Q u ^ CO S PQ CO H O H GO o w I :§ 9 a> cS ca O J3 . : Eh H ^ 03 I— ^ o S q Sun 9 ^ t> « S » H ffi u o < o a o be CO CO a> o o o £ EH be 00 ^"« "§ •S o a w § c8 •-T E C3 CO CO EH H Ck3 ei O O ^ ^ S . 2; CO t3 P O O o S 1^ C5 GO OI4 Chief Offices— Royal Pantechnicon, Portsmouth. FURNITURE, &c., WAREHOUSED. lo Railway Routes SPEND YOUR HOLIDAYS on The Bracing Lincolnshire Coast SKEGNESS, SUTTON-ON-SEA, MABLETHORPE. For an invigorating and health-giving Holiday the East Coast Resorts are unrivalled. These Resorts offer exceptional facilities. Golf, Boating, Bathing, numerous Beach Attractions, &c. The Sands are firm and extensive, and afford excellent opportunities for Cricket, Tennis, &c., while for the children tbey are an ideal playground. Send a post-card to Superintendent of the Line, G.N.R., Dept. W.L.. 3. York Road, London, N., for Illustrated Holiday Booklet, gratis. Railway Routes II Cambrian Railways Delightful Spring, Summer, and Winter Resorts. ON THE SHORES OF CARDIGAN BAY. ■. ^ \ ■ .'^ Saf ish ^ -s , ,--***. .■^._ ^f- . ■ -*. ■:;-■■*;;; 3 O Oq 09 ," »» S o o CO la < = 3 +J ^ <^iei^^^^H MBBBBBBB^^aBi^™^^ o ^ s 0> c S^^ ^^^^"^p^^^L £ 5» a 5 o o (■■insi 1 ■ ^- !jj'i^^^^'''^^s^^^^ !{n ^ rnHRl 1 .^^^C^^^^^ o =■ s OQ tJtli^^ 1/ ■ '^^^^ ^ s 8f ^ttl l^p^v o CO p S ^1 K ^^ ^BIk^.^ ^'JV^-^ . J' In LONDON: 53, Gracechurch Sr., E.G.; 72, Regent Street, W. ; also to Belgian State Railway Office, 47, Cannon Street, E.G. (information only). In DOVER : Friend & Co., Northumberland House, ■ also on the Dover Admiralty Pier. Railway Routes G.W. The G. W. R. is the longest railway in the United Kingdom ; the territory served by its various lines affords an immense range of the finest holiday places and districts in the British Isles. Scenery of unequalled beauty and diversity may be found in the Cornish Riviera, Devon. "Wessex," North and South Wales, and Southern Ireland — all served by the Great Western. The Company has issued a very comprehensive series of books descriptive of the country which this line traverses, and these books are obtainable at Stations and Offices, at the prices shown below : — Cornish Riviera Price 3d. Devon • . « 3d. Wonderful Wessex South Wales North Wales Southern Ireland . . Historic Sites & Scenes of England Rural London Holiday Haunts (containing List of Hotels, Boarding Houses, &c.) ,, 3d. Post free 6d. 6d. 6d. lOd 3d. 6d 3d. 6d 3d. 6d 3d. 6d 3d. 6d 6d. All desired information upon any subject in connection with the Company's services, and the above Travel Books, may be obtained upon application being made to Mr. Charles Aldington, Superin- tendent of the Line, G. W. R., Paddington Station, London, W. Frank Potter, General Manager. Paddington Station, London, W. i6 Railway Routes THE O N D O N & OUTH ESTERN LY. ROUTE BETWEEN LONDON (Waterloo Station) and *'^'^ SOUTH & WEST OF ENGLAND UP-TO-DATE CORRIDOR CARRIAGES in the principal Express Services ; also BREAKFAST. LUNCHEON AND DINING SALOONS To which Passengers travelling any class have access without extra charge, except cost of meals. Ideal Seaside and inland Resorts FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. BOURNEMOUTH Lee-on-Solent New Forest Swanage Southsea Lyme Regis ISLE OF WIGHT Seaton Exmouth Budleigh-Salterton Sidmouth WEYMOUTH THE SUNNY SOUTH AND SOUTH-WEST DEVON, NORTH CORNWALL, &C. ILFRACOMBE Lynton and Lynmouth Bideford Barnstaple Bade EXETER Padstow Wadebridge Bodmin Launceston Tavistock PLYMOUTH L Cheap Tickets from London (Waterloo). TRAVEL "VIA SOUTHAMPTON and HAVRE" For PARIS, NORMANDY, &G. GEARED TURBINE STEAMERS. Also to ST. MALO (for Brittany) and the CHANNEL ISLANDS. For full particulars of Train and Boat Services, Cheap Tickets, &c., apply Mr. Henry Holmes, Supt. of the Line, Waterloo Station, London, S.E. H. A. WALKER, General Manager. Railway Routes 17 SOUTH EAST ERN & CHATHA M RAILWAY ROYAL MAIL EXPRESS SERVICES TO THE CONTINENT VIA Dover Folkestone Queenboro' Dover Folkestone Calais Boulogne Flushing Ostend Flushing LONDON & PARIS ^ 7 HOURS BY THE SHORT SEA AND MAIL ROUTES. Turbine Steamers cross the Channel daily between Dover and Calais, also between Folkestone and Boulogne. PULLMAN CARS IN CONTINENTAL SERVICES BETWEEN LONDON, FOLKESTONE, AND DOVER. FRIDAY, SATURDAY, and SUNDAY to MONDAY or TUESDAY TICKETS ARE ISSUED FROM CHARING CROSS (West End), WATERLOO (Junction), CANNON STREET, & LONDON BRIDGE TO Bexhill, Canterbury "West, Deal, Dover, Folkestone Central, Folkestone Junction, Hastings, Hythe, Lydd, Maidstone, Margate, Littlestone-on-Sea, Ramsgate, Rye, St. Leonards (Warrior Square), Sandgate, Sandling Junction, Sandwich, Shorncliffe, Southborough, Ton- bridge, Tunbridge ^A^ells, Walmer, and Whitstable. ALSO FROM VICTORIA (West End), HOLBORN VIADUCT, and ST. PAUL'S to Bexhill, Birchington, Broadstairs, Canterbury East, Deal, Dover, Faversham, Hastings, Heme Bay, Maid- stone, Margate, Ramsgate, St. Leonards, Sheerness, Sittingbourne (for Milton), Tunbridge Wells, ^A^alme^, Westgate, and Whitstable. For Fares and further particulars respecting the Cheap Tickets, sea Excursion Programme. FRANCIS H. DENT, General Manager. Series 19 14-15] l8 Railway Routes KILKEE, SPANISH POINT, LAHINGH, LISDOONVARNA AND THE Unrivalled Cliff and Coast Scenery OF IS'EST Clare. THE DIRECT ROUTE TO THESE Famous Health and Pleasure Resorts IS BY THE WEST & SOUTH CLARE RAILWAYS From ENNIS to :— ENNISTYMON (for Lisdoonvarna), LAHINCH (for the Golf Greens and the Cliffs of Moher), MILLTOWN-MALBAY (for Spanish Point), and thence to KIIiKEE. Special Service during Tourist Season from Kingsbridge at II a.m., arriving in Kilkee at 6.20 p.m. THROUGH TOURIST TICKETS are issued at the principal Railway Stations in Ireland and England ; also at the Offices of Thos. Cook & Son, Dean & Dawson, J. & H. Lindsay, Ltd., and " Tourist Development," 65, Haj^market, London, S.W. For Information as to Fares. Routes, Hotels, Golfing » Fishing, &c., apply — PATRICK SULLIVAN, Manager. Wesl Clare Railway, Ennis 1914. Railway and Steamer Routes 19 Dublin & Soutl) Eastern Railway. UNLIMITED TRAVELLING FOR EIGHT DAYS Through the GARDEN of IRELAND including the VALE OF AVOCA. FIRST CLASS 20s. SECOND CLASS I5s. THIRD CLASS lOs. From 1st May until 31st October Contract tickets, available for an un- limited numoer of jouruevs between all Stations on the Dublin and South- Eastern Railway lor Eight Days,are issued at the above Fares to Passengers holding tickets from any Enghsh, Welsh, or Scotch Station to Dublin or any D. & S. E. Station. ForFurther Particulars apply to Mr. JOHN COGHLAN, Traffic Manager, 50, Westland Row, Dublin. A. G. REID, Secretary <~ General Manager. LIVERPOOL AND NORTH WALES. Daily Sailings (Sundavs included), May i6th tu Scpi. -olm, 1914, by Palatial Saloon Steamer " La Marguerite," also " St. Seinol," " St. Elvies," &c., between Liverpool, Llandudno, Beaumaris, Bangor, and Menai Bridge ; leaving Liverpool dailv at 10.4s a.m., due back 7.30 p.m., allowmg four hours ashore at Llandudno. Dailv Excursions from Llandudno to Menai Straits and Carnarvon, also frequent Sea Trips round the Island of Anglesey, Douglas (Isle of Man), Holyhead, Blackpool, &c. (low fares). For all further particulars applv to anv of the Company's Ai^euts at the respective Piers or to the Liverpool and .Xorth IVales'Steainship Company, I.itnited, T. G. Breu; Secretary 40, Chapel Street, Liverpool. Official Guide, ivith special map, post free, 3tt. 20 Steamer Routes British & Irish Steam Paci^ Co/umba" inKyWs° HOTEL COUPONS at reasonable rates issued at the various Offices of the Company and on board their Steamers. Pleasure Sailings, Weekly Cruises. Circular Tours by Steamer, Coach and Rail. Fleet of 36 Steamers, including; 'Columba,' ' lona,' * Chieftain,' * Claymore, ' &c. •• « Tourist Programme free by post. Illustrated Guide Book, 6d. ; Cloth Gilt, i/- ; from the Owners, DAVID MACBRAYNE, Ltd., 119, Hope Street, OLASQCW. steamer Routes " 23 General Steam Navigation CO., LTD., 15, Trinity Square, London, E.G. TOURS With Best Hotels, Full Board, and First-class Steamer and Rail, except where 2nd or 3rd Class Rail is mentioned. ♦BORDEAUX, 11-12 days' Tour, £8 12s. Od. ; LOURDES (2nd rail) £9 15 3 * „ ARCACHON, 12 days' Tour, £8 15s. 6d.; 19 days, £11 lis. 6d.; 26 days 14 7 6 * „ BIARRITZ, FONTARRABIA, SAN SEBASTIAN (2nd rail), 11-12 days 10 6 * „ PYRENEES— Grand Circular 19 days' Tour (2nd rail) . . 15 12 9 * „ ALGIERS, 19 days' Tour, £22 6s. Od.; ALGIERS-PYRENEES 26 13 6 * During July, August and September, 10s. extra. OSTEND, 2 days' Tour, £1 4s. 6d.; 3 days, £1 12s. 6d.; 10 days' Tour sejours 3 18 6 „ BRUGES, BRUSSELS, ARDENNES, CAVERNS OF HAN, &c., (2nd rail), 9 days 5 9 5 „ RHINE (ist Class Steamers and 2nd Rail) 9 davs 6 7 2 „ RHINE, MOSELLE, MEUSE . . Tour 16 days (2nd rail) 11 „ RHINE Tour Sejour (2nd rail) 16 days 9 15 EDINBURGH, 5 days' Tour, £3 6s. Od.; 6 days' Tour, £3 16s. 6d. 16 days' 9 16 „ STRATHARDLE, KILLIECRANKIE, DUNKELD, 16 days' (3rd rail) 9 9 „ KYLES of BUTE, ARDRISHAIG, or INVERARAY, 6 days' Tour 4 17 6 „ STAFFA & lONA (including boats and guides), 9 days' Tour 8 16 „ CALEDONIAN CANAL and WESTERN ISLANDS, 13 days 13 13 HAMBURG, 5 days' Tour, £5 5s. Od.; 6 days', £5 18s. Od,; BERLIN (2nd Rail), 6 days 6 11 4 „ BERLIN, POTSDAM, conducted Coaching, &c.. Tour, with sails on Elbe and Spree, and admission to Potsdam Palaces (2nd Rail) 9 days 7 10 „ KIEL KORSOR, COPENHAGEN (2nd Rail) 9 days' Tour 7 15 2 „ SCANDINAVIAN GOTHA CANAL . . Grand 16 day's Tour 14 14 ROUND BRITAIN, &c„ CRUISES: ROUND BRITAIN CRUISE. — ist class, full-board and Hotel accom- modation throughout. 9 days for £7 17s. 6d. Leaving London Saturday or Wednesday in either direction, calling at Edinburgh, Dundee, Stromness (Orkneys), sailing between the Western Highlands and the Inner Hebrides, amid unrivalled scenery, calling at Belfast, and arriving in London on 9th day. The cruise can be done in the scope of a week, leaving Saturday and arriving back on Monday morning, 9th day. ROUND BRITAIN CRUISE 14 days £10 LONDON, EDINBURGH, GLASGOW, ' 7 days (leaving Sat.) ..550 BELFAST, and back to London ) 10 days (leaving Wed.) . . 7 10 LONDON, DUBLIN, PORTSMOUTH, 1 ^^■ith Full Board and Hotel SOUTHAMPTON, PLYMOUTH, I Accommod-tion. FALMOUTH, DUBLIN, I. of MAN, 12-13 days 8 6 3 SILLOTH, MELROSE, EDIN- With Full Board and Hotel BURGH, LONDON / .Accommodation. Illustrated Guide, with splendid Road, Rail, and Route Maps, by post 2jd. 24 I am a writer, So is my "Swan"! I am busy, So is my " Swan " ! I am strong and weii. So is my " Swan " ! I often travel, So does my " Swan "! I am good for years to come, So is my " Swan " ! WE ARE BOSOM FRIENDS MY " SWAN " PEN AND I. Let me have Booklet No. 914 sent yoa. MABIE, TODD & CO., 79 & 80, HIGH HOLBORN, W.C. BRANCHES : 38, Cheapside, E.C. ; 95a, Regent Street, W. ; 3, Exchange Street, Manchester ; 10, Rue Neuve, Brussels ; Brentano's, 37, Ave. de rOpera, Paris ; and at New York and Chicago. Hotels, Hydropathic Establishments, and Boarding House Directory i6 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Aberystwyth ... ... 28 Criccieth ... 38 Ambleside ... 28 Deal ... 38 Ashford ... 28 Douglas ... ... 39 Bangor ... ... 28 Droitwich 39, 40 Barmouth ... 28 Dublin ... 40, 41 Barnstaple ... 29 Dulverton ... 41 Bath ... 29 Eastbourne 41, 42 Belfast ... 29 Edinburgh ... 42 Bettsw-y-Coed ... ... 29 Edwinstowe ••• 43 Bexhill ... 30 English Lakes .. 28, 30. 37, Birmingham ... 30 38, 44, 46, 50 ,51,68 , 80, 82 Blackpool ... 30 Exeter ... ••• 43 Bognor ... ... 30 Exmouth • • • ••• 43 Bournemouth ... ... 30 Falmouth • • • 43, 44 Bowness-on-Winder- Far Sawrey . . • ... 44 mere ... ... 30 Felixstowe • . • ... 44 Bridlington ... 31 Folkestone .•• 45 Brighton... 31, 32 Fowey • • ■ ... 45 Broadstairs ... 32 Gloucester ... ••• 45 Bude ... 32 Gorleston-on Sea ... 45 Budleigh Salterton ... 32 Grange-over- Sands ... 46 Burnham ... 32 Grasmere • . • ... 46 Buxton ...32, ZZ, 34, 35, 3^ Great Yarmouth ... 83 Canterbury ... 36 Guernsey ... 46 Capel Curig ... z^ Harrogate 46, 47 Carbis Bay ... Z6 Hastings... ... 47 Caragh Lake ... 52 Hereford ... 47 Channel Islands 46, 50, 72 Heme Bay ..; 48 Cheltenham ... 36 Ilfracombe 48, 49 Chester ... ... z(^ Inverness 49, 50 Clevedon... ■■■ 37 Isle of Man 39, 70 Clifton ... ••• 37 Isle of Wight 71, 73 80, 83 Clovelly ... 37 Jersey ... 50 Cockermouth ... ••■ 37 Kenmare ... 52 Colwyn Bay 37, 3S Keswick ... 50, 51 Coniston ... 3S 1 Killarney 51, 52 Index 27 PAGE PAGE Land's End # • . 53 Rhvl ... 70 Langland Bay ... ... 53 Ripon ... 70 Leamington • • « 53 Ross-on-Wye ... 71 Littlehampton ... ... 53 Rostrevor ... 71 Liverpool • a • 54 Ryde ... 71 Llandrindod Wells 55 St. Ives ... ... 71 Llandudno ... 55, 56, 57 St. Leonards ... 71 Llanfairfechan ... . • . 55 Saltburn ... 71 Loch Awe 57 Sandown ... 71 London .. 57, 58 59. 60 Sandwich ... 72 Londonderry ... ... 60 Sark ... 72 Lowestoft • • • 60 Scarborough ... 72 Lyme Regis • • • 60 Seaton ... ... 72 Lymington ... 60 Selsey •-■ 73 Lyndhurst 60 Sennen ... •■• 53 Lynmouth 60, 61 Shanklin... - 73 L5mton ... 61, 62 Sheringham ... ••• 73 Maidenhead 63 Sidmouth ... ■■' 7i Malvern 63. 64 Sonning-on-Thames ... 74, Marazion « • . 64 Southport ... 74. 75 Margate ... • . « 64 Southsea ••• 75 Matlock ... ... 65 Stratford-on-Avon ••• 75 Minehead 65, 66 Strathpeffer - 75 Morecambe • . • 66 Swan age ... 76 Mortehoe 66 Symond's Yaf '^ ... ... 76 Newquay 66, 67 Tenby ... ... 76 Oxford 67. 68 Torquay ... 77,78 , 79j 80 Paignton ... 68 Truro • a • ... 80 Parknasilla ... 52 UUswater • • • ... 80 Patterdale 68 Ventnor ... ... ... 80 Penrith 68, 80 Warwick 80, 81 Penzance • . • 69 Waterville ... 52 Plymouth ... 69 Weston-super -Mare ... 81 Port Erin ... 70 Weymouth . . • ... 81 Portree ... . . . 69 Wexford ... ... 81 Portrush... ... 70 Whitby ... ... ... 81 Portsmouth • . . 70 Windermere ... ... 82 Pwllheli • • • 70 Worcester ... ... 82 Ramsey ... 70 \\'orthing ... ... 82 Ramsgate ... 70 Yarmouth (G re at) ... 83 Rhos-on-Sea • • • 38 Yarmouth (L W.) ... 83 28 Aberystwyth — Bangor — Barmouth ThcWATERLXDO' IjfYIDRO HQTEL . fi MARINE PARADe W- — - - .ABERYSTWYTH SEA Facing. Posi- tion Unique. Centre of Promenade. 100 Bedrooms. High- class and Up-to-date. Officially appointed by A.M.A. & M.U. Hall, Lounge & Recreation Room just added. Billiards. MOTOR Garage. 'Phone 11. Send for Illustrated Tariff to MANAGER Aberystwyth-BRYN-Y-MOR Aberystwyth-The Plynlymon. Boarding House, Marine Parade. — Facing Sea and Central for Amusements. Near Golf Links. Terms Moderate. Mrs. HUGHES (late of Limpley Stoke Hydr o), Proprietress. Best, Largest, and most Comfort- able Boarding Residence on the Sea Front. Five general Sitting Rooms facing Sea. Good Cuisine. Near Golf Links. Illustrated Tariff. MANAGERESS. MhlociflO—T fl Vol an He Private Hotel. Waterhead. Flrst-class. Ad- UICOIUC iJaiVCiailUO joining Lake and Landing Stage of Steamers. Coaches Lake District pass door. Private Boat Landing. Fishing. Golf. Private Apartments. Tel. 78. Mrs. D. WILSON, Prop'tress. Ambleside -Robinsofl's Temp. Hotel.-irceiJnr'^^itre^CMi Excursions, Coaching, Climbing, Cychng, &c. Parties Catered for. Moderate Terms. AmMesidPGarsi¥^ Excellent Cuisine. Tariff Moderate. Parties Catered for. Garage for 25 Cars. 'Phone 58. Cars for Hire and MOTOR BOATS. Ambleside, Windermere Lake -"VALE VIEW" HOTEL. — Coaching. " Valeview." Lounges. Lawn. Telephone 92. Telegrams, GEO. W. HILL. Ashover, Derbys-Ashover House Hydro ~?cTi!'T Aspect'. Links. Tennis, Croquet, & Bowling Green. Terms Mod. Apply for Tariff. 'Phone No. 4. Hvdropathic Treatment. Miss ROGERS, Mngrss. Bangor, \, Wales-The British Hotel. -First-class , Ai. iiuiuu . ..w .ir..».w-a ■■wa.waa Family. 3 mins. fr. Station & Golf Links {i8 holes). Garage for 20 Cars. Cars for Hire. 'Phone 178. J. A. LANG. Proprietor. Barmouth— HEN DRE HALL. Private Hotel & Board Residence.— Situated in own Beautiful Grounds, overlooking Cardigan Bay. Facing due South. All Entertaining Rooms, including Recreation Room, & a Quaint & Spacious Lounge, & most of the Bedrooms overlook Sea. Evening Entertainments, Xmas & Easter House Parties. Sep. Tables. Golf, Tennis & Croquet. Garage. 3 min. fr. Station. " The House is recognised as the Best h Most Comfort- able in Barmouth." 'Phone 25. Prop'tress. Mrs. Ed. WILLIAMS. Barmouth G wal i a H o tel .-^'^;',^"Sio'r' IvfrJ Home Comfort. Also MANOR HOUSE, Beach Road, First-class Apartments. Mrs. \V. JONES. Barmouth-Cors-y-gedol & Marine Hotels -s'!tl'tel.^'FaJS^ the Sea, with south-west aspect. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. for Terms, apply to MANAGER. Barmouth — Bath — Belfast — Bettws-y-Coed 29 DdrniAiifh Min V IWnr —Health Holidays on the Sea Shore. Corn- DdllllOlllll— lulll-jf-lUUl . forts of Home. Palatial House (70 bedrooms) facing the Sun. Good Table. (From 30s. weekly according to Season). Send for free tariff. Mr. & Mrs. W. S. LLOYD. Barmouth-Lion Hotel.-E^S'n.'^^uS: Extensive Garage. Moderate Tariff. R. G. MOORE, Proprietor. Barmouth, N.Wales-West End House ffaVont. Every comfort. Liberal Table. Private Apartments. Bdg. Terms fr. 5/- per day. Personal Supervision. Miss WINCHESTER, Proprietress. BARNSTAPLE, N. DEVON. IMPERIAL HOTEL. Patronised by Princess Christian & Princess Victoria. First-class Residential and Family. Best centre for whole of Nortli Devon. Situated in own grounds, overloolcingf River Taw, comprising Pri- vate Suites, several Drawing Rooms, Fifty Bedrooms, Billiard Rooms, &c. Electric Light. Garage. Officially ap- pointed Hotel for R. A.M.C., M.U.. & A. A. Tel. 100. C. A. YOUINGS, Proprietor. Barnstapie-Royal & Fortescue Hotel.-ScSSrappoSiiS to A.A.C. & A.A. Central for Ilfracombe, Lynton, &c. Moderate Charges. Garage. 'Phone qq. Mrs. M. H. TOLLER. Proprietress- The Christopher Hotel (Bath) Ltd.- S:n,2!^a?Hot'er'5'pposr.e Guildhall and Abbev. Close Baths and Stations. Mod. Tariff. Good Cuisine. Tel. 302. The Misses ROBINSON, Manageresses. Jioih Dalr^h'c Unfol (Unlicensed). Opposite Midland Railway J)aLll~AiliyU nUlCl station. Most convenient for Visitors and Tourists. Bath-Edgar Private Hotel, Replete with every Comfort. Moderate Charges. R. RALPH, Proprietor (late of Falmouth). 2 and 3, Laura Place. — Most Con- ^ , venient for Baths, Grand Pump Room, and Concert Room. Every Comfort. Moderate Terms. Telephone 25. Address JOHN HOOPER (late J. H. Blake). Bath-Private Bdg. Estab.-e:i.SrL"Si,s, 'ZZ 1; and Sham Castle Golf Links. Refined and Homelike. Smoke Room. Tel. 50Y. Mrs. W. LAWRENCE, Proprietress. Belfast- Robinson's Temp. Hotel,' gS^' Centrally Situated for Stations and Steamboats. Trams pass to all parts of Citv. Terms Moderate. Address MANAGER. Belfast-UNION HOTEL, °°Sl!.,^'^Vo-Srcor fortable and Up-to-date. Telephone No. 2438. Reasonable Tariff. Apply PROPRIETRESS. Bettws-y-Coed, N. Wales-Bryn Afon ^TS?e l°rr7uri°sS Coaching, Climbing, Fishing, &c. Ever>' Comfort. Moderate and Inclusive Terms. Mrs M. HARRISON, Proprietress. BeUws-y-Coed— CLAN ABER HOTEL — First-class. Elec. Light. Lounge. Billiards, Mod. Inclu. Terms. Fishing, Golf, Tennis, &c. Garage free. Appointed A.A., M.U., R.A.C., & C.T.C. Hotel. 'Phone 8. Tels., " Glanaber." Mrs. A. EVANS, Resident Proprietress. ^ Bexhill — Birmingham — Bowness ^avhill RoQ/ih Tnworc Private Hotel.— Facing Sea. Central. Elec- DtJAlllll— DcdOll lUWtjlD Light. Excellent Cuisine. Sep. Tables. Trams pass for Cooden Golt Links. Convenient also for Bexhill Links. Special Winter Terms. 'Phone 330. PROPRIETRESS. DavUiII << DirkACA " High-class Private Hotel.—Faces Sea PeAnill— ni|JU0U and adjoins Golf Links. Terms Moderate. Resident Proprietor, Captain RONALD GIBB. Birmingham -Hotels "Cobden" & "Hen and Chickens." 5 mins. fr. Ry. Stations. Coffee, Coml. & Smoke Rms. Terms Mod. Tel. Central 6804-5 & Midland 1029. Tels. " Cobden," " Chicken." RlarVnArtl firAAVlaTlHc Boarding Estab., 12, Tyldesley Terrace. DltttA.pUUl— DlUUJiKlJiUO Promenade.-^ 6/- to 6/6 per day, inclusive. Tels., " Brooklands, Blackpool." Also two excellently Furnished Villas to let, north. Elec. Light throughout. Telephone 494. RlanlrnAAl vc: fl owonrl An I*"^ate Hotel.— Sea view. Well Fur- JjldlLpUUl. J^^-l(ltlIt5ilUUli nished. Lofty Bedrooms. Billiards. Free Garage. Ex. Cuisine. Small Tables. Terms Mod. Special Winter & Residential Terms. Tel. 407. MissW. MARSHALL, Prop . Bognor-The "Cresham" ^'^^.^'^■i^^^irl Well-appointed & Comfortable. Balconies & Rooms directly facing Sea. Sep. Tables. Terms fr. \h to 3 Gs. Apply Mrs. WELH AM. PArinAT' "Tho TvQffAn" Bdg. Estab., Esplanade.— On Sea Front, DU5UUI— lllC UldllUll S. Aspect. Convenient for Golf, Tennis. Bathing, Boating, &c. Sep. Tables. Termsfroml^ to 3gs., accor- ding to Season & selection of Rooms. 'Phone 23- Miss MACE. BArinnr* " Thfl PoQiiliaii " Boarding Establishment. Select, Reason- DUgllUl— lllc DcaUlloU able, and Comfortable. Facing Sea & Pier. Separate Tables. Week-ends (Season), 12/6. Good Catering. Personal Supervision. Reduction Winter Months. PROPRIETOR . Bou pnemouth-Towercllffe ^^'S^:\ ^^^ Pier, Sea, and Gardens. Excellent Cuisine. Separate Tables. Lift. Billiards. Moderate. Mr. & Mrs. WTLLIAMS. Bourneraoutli-SUNNY HALL ?*6„^„ttuSs.ntK. s^^i 3 fr. Central Station, Trams, & Shops. Short distance to Pleasure Gardens. Mod. & Inclu. Terms. Apply The Misses THOMPSON . Bournemoutli-Castle Court SSoS°Boi"o.^r'SSire Gardens. Grand Views Sea & Land. Est. 20 yrs. Terms fr. 35/-. 'Phone 1147. Mr. & Mrs. J. D. HAZARD, Proprietors & Managers . Bournemouth-" Pinehurst " ^^■Jt^i.^I'^^JLS'S^.:. Bournemoutli-East Anglia °°"^ yf ^s°°<^. PORxlg"' PAiiyinflTTiAiith— WEST CLIFF, CRAG HALL Boarding Establishment* DUm llClllUU m Terms from 30 /- per week. Bowness-on-Windermere-ST. MARTIN'S !^?„^e*^„u^e°?.^ Steamer Pier. Replete with every Comfort. Terms from Two Guineas. Mrs. WILSON, Proprietress. PAWnflCC An WinHoT'niOrO"^^ interested in simple Country-house DU Wllcbb-Ull-niliUclUlClC Furniture, refined in form, moderate in price, genuine throughout, visit the collection at the Old Curiosity Shop, Cragg Brow. T. WELCH-TOWNSON, Proprietor. 6" THE WINDSOR 6" THE GREAT ILLUSTRATED MONTHLY. 1 Bridlinj^ton — Brighton SI DMitflliMrv+An TmT^DT»ial Private Hotel,— Directly Facing Sea DriCllingrLOn— iinpCriai Best position, separate Tables, Excelleat Cuisine. Under Personal Supervision. 'Phone 119. Tariff from G. W. CLARKE, Proprietor. Bridlington - Ttie Manchester. FACING SEA. 50 ROOMS. —PRINCIPAL PRIVATE HOTEL. W. L. GURNELL. Bridlington— Astoria Private Hotel. Splendid Sea View. Close Parade, 15 min. from Golf Links. Newly Furnished. Elec. Light. Lounge. Terms from 6/- to 9/- per day. inclusive. A. & P. MASSA. -Centrally Situated. Over- .„^j looking Sea. Close to Spa, 10 mins. from Golf Links, 5 from Ry. Station & Princes Parade. Boarding Terms fr. 5/6 day, and fr. 35/- week. 'Phone 168. The Misses LITTLE. Bridlington-OZONE ^ToSSnfS BRIDLINGTON HYDRO.- %ty |gi9. °° "^ BRIGHTON. DUDLEY HOTEL, hoJ ADJOINING LAWNS. £S!^ V-^^- Sfc^S^^^— ,— '^iMi^.iU.. J . -^ p BEST position and finest rooms in Hove. Lift. Night Porter. Electric Light. Selected Wines. Most convenient for Hove and Dyke Golf Links. A few minutes from West Pier. Entirely New Management. Inclusive Terms from 3 Guineas per week, or a la Carte. Telegrams : "Dudley Hotel, Hove." Telephone No. 2490. Resident Proprietor. Dr.irflifAn "'nflnhirih" Boarding Estab., Grand Parade. CentraUy DrlglllOIl- DenDlgll situated, overlooking Royal Pavilion & Vic- toria Gdns. Close New Palace Pier & Amusements. Smoking Lounge, Billiards. Elec. Light. Terms fr. 25/- Wk. Wk.-endsl0/6- Tel. 6994, Brighton n I ) Bdg. Estab,, Grand Parade.— Overlooking Pavilion & Victoria Gardens. Billiards (Full- size). Smoking Lounge. Croquet Lawn. Close Palace, Pier, Shops, & Theatres. Fr. 25/6 weekly. 10 '6 week-ends. B. LETHER, Prop. 15, King's Road —On Sea Front. Well-appointed. Electric Light. Terms from 35/- single, double 3J Gs. to 5 Gs. Week-ends from 15/- Billiards. New & Up-to-date Management. BrigMon-Gresham Private Hotel, 32 Brighton — Burnham — Bude — Buxton Brlghton-Leander House ^^Ikci^rs'i iT-ifLt^Ae^ Sep. Tables. Bath (h. & c). Electricity Throughout. Fr. 31/6 wkly Week-ends 13 /- ' Phone 5826 Brighton. C. H. ROBBERDS, Prop. M(, 1 es m m o I n < I I H o ^HE Hotel is detached, pleasantly situated with southern aspect, is close w to Baths, Pump Room, Church, and overlooking the Gardens, and has Special Suites of Rooms without staircases for Invalids. Lounge. Private Sitting Rooms, and Rooms en suite. Table d'Hote at 7 p.m. Corridors Heated throughout the Winter. Electric Light in every room. Terms Moderate. Own Farm Produce. GARAGE. W. F. MILL, Proprietor. 'Phone 448. BUXTON. "BALMORAL" PRIVATE AND RESIDENTIAL HOTEL, Charmingly situated near Mineral Baths, Pump Room, Gardens, and Churches. Bedrooms on Ground Floor, Billiard and Recreation Room. Comfortably heated in Winter. Electric Light Throughout. Personal Supervision. Tel. 481. 'Mrs. LEE, Proprietress. BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. Beautifully Situated. for Winter or Summer. Excellent Cuisine. Electric Elevator to all Floors. Scries, 1914 -i5-] An Ideal Residence Every Comfort. Terms, £2 2s. per week. Special Week-end and W'inter Terms. Electric Light. GARAGE. Hydro Baths of every description. 'Phone 474. Miss A. OLIVER, Troprietress. - 34 Buxton BUXTON; DERBYSHIRE. THE MOUNTAIN SPA. ACCESSIBILITY. 3| hours London, I hour Derby, 2 hours Liver- pool, 2 hours Birmingham, 40 minutes Manchester, 50 minutes Sheffield. HEALTH. 1000 feet above sea leveL Lowest death rate, 8-1 per 1000. Bracing and Dry air (not bleak). High Sunshine Records. CURE. Warm, Radio-Active Waters (82°F). Pleasant and Odorless. Delightful Bathing Treatments. Unexcelled for Gout, Rheumatism, Neuritis, and allied troubles. Treatments leave ample time for Amusements and Excursions. PLEASURE. Unrivalled Excursions through Peak District. Golf (2 links). Motoring, Croquet, Tennis, Bowls. Bands, Orchestras, Illuminated Con- certs, Theatres, &c. FREE GUIDE FROM MANAGER, BUREAU OF INFORMATION, BUXTON. J Buxton 35 CRESCENT HOTEL BUXTON. SOLE OFFICIALLY APPOINTED HOTEL to ROYAL AUTOMOBILE CLUB, also OFFICIAL HOTEL to A.A.— M.U.— A.T.C.A. 'TT'HIS First-class Hotel occupies the best situation, ^^ being near the Railway Stations, and connected by Covered Colonnade with the Baths, Wells. Pavilion, Gardens, Opera House, &c. Buxton Golf Links one mile from the Hotel. The St. Ann's Well is immedi- ately opposite the Hotel. Table d'Hote at 7 p.m. in the Splendid Dining Room (one of the finest in the Kingdom). GARAGE. PETROL. Public Diningy Drawing, Billiard, Smoking, and Reading Rooms. ELECTRIC PASSENGER LIFT. Electric Light in all Rooms. EXCELLENT CUISINE. CHOICE WINE AND CIGARS. C. J. SMILTER, Proprietor. Telegraphic Address : — "Crescent, Buxton." TELEPHONE No. 20. TERMS MODERATE AND INCLUSIVE. 36 Buxton — Canterbury — Chester BUXTON. Central & Elevated Positiou. 5 mins. from Pump Room & Gardens. Table d'Hote 6.45 Sep. Tables. BiUiard & Smoke Rooms. 'Phone 45 Tela., " Brunswick. 4- Golf Links within easy distance. Coaching and Walking Excursions Arranged. Indoor Entertainment. M. L. & A. WRIGHT, late with Misses MiDDLETON & Wood, The Craig-y-don, Llandudno. BUXTON. PALACE VILLA Boarding Establishment. BEAUTIFULLY Situated. South Aspect. Perfect Sanitation. Well-equipped Throughout Within three minutes' walk of Stations, Baths, Gardens, &c. Electric Light, New Lounge, Billiard and Smoke Rooms. Private Sitting Rooms. Good Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Under the Personal Super- vision of MISSES SCOTT. Proprietresses. Canterbury-Fleur-de-Lis Hotel, T;ie;hoSl^!?5. Canterbury Baker's Temperance Hotel & Restaurant adjoining. Estab. 1874 St. George's St.- Light. Baths -Every Comfort. Electric (h. & C). Motor Garage A. G. BAKER. Capel Curig, K. Wales-Tyn-y-Coed Hotel. Beautifully Situated. Splendid Comfort. Moderate Terms. Centre for Climbing. Every T. W. EVANS, Proprietor. lornwall-CarMs Bay Hotel. ^i'm.T;^?Si^e"* Sea Front. Sunny Position. Good Cuisine. 40 Bedrooms. Billiards. Recreation Room. Golf. Tennis. 'Phone 228. Misses WOOD . Rhos-on-Sea, N. Wales-Monks-Weir ^^\SSS:"su^nTpoS tion. Close to Pier & Golf Course. Elec. Cars connect Colwyn Bay & Llandudno. Mod. Terms. Misses TOBEY & ROBERTS. HoteL— ■ situated on Sea Front. Balcony facing Sea. Mountain Views. Nr. Golf Links, Pier, &c. Good Cuisine. Separate Tables. 'Phone 261, Miss MORRIS. Colwyn Bay, Rhos-on-Sea-Marlow ^kStiSS;^^! situated. Overlooking Sea, Mountains, & Woods. Golf. South Aspect. Garage nr. Terms Moderate. The Misses COUBROUGH. Colwyn Bay, Rhos-on-Sea-' Inishmore' f?c?ng fet^ Pier. Adjoining Tennis Courts. Close to Golf Links. Recherche Cuisine. Sep. Tables. Tel. No. 161 Colwyn Bay. PROPRIETRESS. rnniQtATI ' P'airfiplfl ' / Bed & Breakfast, from 3/6 DUBLIN, 8, HarCOUrt St. / ^. /Terms rer Day, from 6/6. First-class Tourist and Com-/^^ «Jj' §y Weekly by arrangement. Sep- mercial. Large, well appointed /^^fC^ i^/ arate Tables. Dining Room Rooms. Good Cooking and /^QV^jjT,^/ seats 120. Baths, H. & C. Service. Electric Light /^^^^V^/ Write tor Illustrated Booklet, throughout. Fire Escape /^C^ ^^ ^/T'grams: "Satisfied, Dublin." to every Bedroom. / ^» / 'Phone 345. Address Managep. "niiKlin Tiiyu'c Unfal College Green.— Thoroughly up-to-date, most l/UUllll— UUljf nULCl, pleasant part of City. Moderate Terms. Elec- tric Light. Elevator. Free Garage. Telegrams :" Jury, Dublin." Telephones 503 and 513. Dublin-Cranville Hotel, "fp'^JinS'^.Se.'rE^oJSt able. Suitable for Tourists & others, being centrally situated. Licensed. No Public Bar. 'Phone 342. Miss STEPHEN, Manageress . "niiKlin Daa^'o llA-f aI Parkgate Street. — Two minutes from UUUUll— ilUOO O nUlCli Kingsbridge Station for Killarney Lakes. Best Family & Commercial Unlicensed Hotel in City. Bed and Breakfast from 4/6. Night Porter. Garage free. Tels., "Rest, Dublin." 'Phone 2399. J. ROSS, Proprietor. Dulverton (G.W.R.)-Carnarvon Arms Hotel. " Home Dairy." Private Trout Fishing. Red Deer Hunting. Golf Course adjoining. Booklet Free. ^__ EASTBOURNE. YORK HOUSE Boarding Establishment, 15—19, Royal Parade. UNRIVALLED Position on Sea Front. Spacious Dining Room and Smoking Lounge. Comfortable Drawing Room. Seventy Bedrooms. Electric Light Everywhere. Large Covered Verandah on Ground Floor. Tea Room open to Non-residents. Heated by Hot Water Radiators. Terms from 30/-. For Illustrated Tarifl, write to Proprietress, Tel. 918 (2 Lines). Mrs. DOUGLAS E. WILLIAMSON. Eastbourne-" Whinnyhall " ?^¥f^n^''t ItTS^l^^t View. Elsctric Light. Smoking Lounge. Baths (h & c ). Terms Mod. ExceUent Cuisine. Separate Tables. Miss P.\TTERSON. Eastbourne -"The Retreat ' ' ^''ko=,raS ,'„°sS,'a JSS ments. Well Furnished and Comfortable. Smoke & Billiard Rooms. Mod. & Inclusive Terms fr. 25/6. Tel. 849. Mr. &Mrs. MARINDIN. 42 Eastbourne — Edinburgh P'jlQthnilT'TlP—irilUPO ^^' Estab., 55. Jevington Gardens.— Pleasantly ijaolUUUl UC JVU \ CC situated in the best part of Eastbourne. Three doors from Grand Parade. Excellent Sea View. Nr. Devonshire Park &Pier. Mod. Tariff. Special Winter Terms. Apply PROPRIETOR. Eastbourne-" Araluen, Eastbourne-" Dunkeld 1 1 Grand Parade. High-class Private Hotel, Detached. Central. Billiard Room. Lounge, and Receptien Rooms on Ground Floor. Comfortable and Homelike. Reasonable Tariff. 'Phone 144. PROPRIETRESS. ' ' Bdg. Estab., 7, Wilmington Square.— Facing South-VVest. Splendid Sea View. Onemin. . from Parade & Devonshire Park, & ten min. from Golf Links. Ex. Cuisine. Sep. Tables. Smoke Rm. Mod. Terms. Miss SAMWAY. Eastbourne-Paimerston ^^iT^i .^Tbrct: ITS^^^ Dining, Drawing, & Lounge Smoke Rooms. Sep. Tables. Nr. Tennis & Bowls. 'Phone io86. Mod. Tariff. Apply PROPRIETORS. Eastbourne -Giendower Private Hotel, Smgh^'to-Fet min. to Grand Parade & Devonshire Park. Spacious Dining, Drawing, and Smoking Rms. Sep. Tables. Mod. Terms. Misses MARTIN . Eastbourne Beacon Royal. 'sS^^^E^t Central Heating for Winter. Mr. & Mrs. LENHAM. Facing Sea. Close to Devonshire Park. Terms from 2i guineas. EDINBURGH. THE COCKBURN HOTEL Adjoining: Waverley Station. First-class Temperance. Foreign Languages Spoken. Passenger Elevator. Electric Light. JOHN MACPHERSON, Proprietor. Edinburgh-Board Residence or Select Apartments, at 72, North- umberland St. — Few min. fr. Stn. by Tram or Taxi. Quiet & Select. Terms Mod. & Inclu. Baths, h. & c. Excellent Cooking & Attendance. Miss WALTON. Edinburgh-The Kenilworth ^Si,^5^Ldtr'sl.^ed & Breakfast fr. 2/8 to 3/9. 3 mins. fr. Waverley Station, & i min. fr. G.P.O. Special Bdg. Tenns for Large Parties. R. MILL, Proprietor. Edinburgh — Edwinstowe — Exmouth — Falmouth 43 DARLING'S REGENT TEMPERANCE HOTEL 21, WATERLOO PLACE, EDINBURGH. Under the Personal Management of Miss Darling. Address for Telegrams— Telephone No. 02928 Central. " Darling's Hotel, Edinburgh." English Lakes (See pages 28, 30, $7, 38, 44, 46, 50, 51, 68, 80, and 82). Edwinstowe-The Dukeries Hotel. -Electric Light Throughout. Garage. C. FOX, Mngrss. Exeter, S. Devon Back's Temp. Hotel, Exe Bridge. J Nj. i/v» vj» — ^www-- — --i- ^- , Good Centre for Tourists. Homely and Comfortable. Moderate Charges. Trams from all Stations. 'Phone 489. F. C. BACK, Proprietor. Exmouth, S. Devon-Dolforgan Hotel.-fSl.f S Residential. Overlooking Sea. Ideal Winter or Summer Resort. Tariff Mod. Phones. Tels., "Dolforgan. Exmouth." Miss BAKER. -Splendidly situated on Sea Front. Table d'Hote (sep- Exmouth-Crescent PrlYate Hotel." arate tables) . Highly recommended for Comfort & Mod.Tariff. Dark Room Personal Supervision of Proprietress, Mrs. H. F. WHITE. FALMOUTH. BOSCAWEN PRIVATE HOTEL COMMANDS a Magnificent and Uninterrupted V^iew of Fal- mouth Bay. Faces South. Opposite Beach. Electric Light Through- out. Five minutes from Sation. Large Public Rooms. Table d'Hote. Separate Tables. High- class Hotel with Moderate Tariff. Every Convenience. Cooking by First-class Chef. 'Phone 141 Fal- mouth. Telegrams : "Boscawen Hotel, Falmouth." For particulars apply to Proprietors, Mr. & Mrs. H. BARNES MOSS. Falmouth-AIbion Hotel. Commands Extensive Views of the beautiful Harbour. Replete with every accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. Charges Moderate. Tariff on application. Same management since 1890. Garage in communication with Hotel. Telephone 62. CURNOW & WERNHARD, Proprietors. Falmoutl S^,-"Bay" Hotel. -o-^SI^^lSS the Bav. In Own Grounds. Opened February, 1909. Moderate Terms Apply MANAGERESS. 44 Falmouth — F elixstowe FALMOUTH, CORNWALL. PENTARGAN PRIVATE HOTEL STANDS in Own Grounds. South Aspect, directly facing the Bay. Smoking Rooms. Lounge. Billiard Room. Full-sizeTable(Thurston). Croquet. Table d'Hote. Separate Tables. Electric Light Throughout. Golf, lb -hole course i mile. Apply Mr. & Mrs. CLATWORTHV. Proprietors. Telephone loi " Falmouth." Ffllmnilth — Rrflv'Q ('ate Ralph's) Commercial and Temperance Hotel, laimUUlU Diajf O KiUigrew Street. In centre of Town and near Landing Stage. Every Accommodation. Mod. Charges. Home Comforts. 'Buses to & from the Station. J. M. BRAY, Proprietor. Falmouth- Kneebone's Temperance Hotel, '^'"!'Tentr^aTtr Tourists and Cyclists. Charges. Garage near. Comfortable, Moderate W. KNEEBONE, Proprietor. Far Sawrey, Hr/ Windermere -Sawrey Hotel. ^'d'i'efHTn Windermere & Esthwaite Lakes. Splendid Pike & Perch Fishing. Boat provided. Coaches Windermere to Conistou call at Hotel. Garage, &c. Terms reasonable. JAMES ROWE, Proprietor. FpIiYqIaWP Wlirlindhani Select Pension, Sea Road. — Southern lOilAOlUYYC nUHlilgUaUl Aspect, on Sea Front. Well Furnished and Comfortable. Baths (h. & c). Terms Mod. Reduced charges for Winter Months. Miss COLLETT, Prop, (late of Hyde Pk. Hotel). FpllYQfnWA— " WAVERLEY " Private Hotel, facingSea. "BROOKLYN " 1 ClIADLUWC Bdg. Estab., good position. " WESTCLIFF » Superior Apts. . ' Facing Sea. Tennis & Croquet. Produce from own Farm. Tels. or Letters, "Eagle, Waverle y, Felixstowe ." 'Phone 67. Cobbold Rd.— Select & Comfortable. Central. 2 min. from Sea & Gardens. 5 min. to Spa, Pavilion. Terms from 5s. day ; from 2.'^s. week according to season. Mrs. A. M. TAYLOR.' Felixstowe-Lawrence Villa ^^^;J'^±i Felixstowe Marlborough ^rr^eT^^os-Zrt:^ Front. Near Pier. Excellent Cuisine. Sep. Tables. Smoking Lounge. Balconies. Elec. Light 'Phone 126. Tels., "Dawson, Marlboro." PpllYQfAWA Msi l*tolln Private Hotel & Boarding Establishment. — ICIIADIUYVC lfl««.l ICIIU Is delightfully situated on Sea Front. Central between New Pier & Bandstand. Good Cuisine. Separate Tables. Moderate Tenns. G. W. MARTIN, Proprietor. FpliYctftrnp—WinifrpH WftlKP Bdg. Estab., Highheld Rd.— Central. ICllADLUWC nilimCU nUUOC Near Sea. Spa, Pavilion, & Gardens. Highly Recommended. Charges strictly Moderate. Winter b\- arrangement. Baths (H. & C). Electric Light. PROPRIETRES.S. PpllYQfftWP— nihCATl'c Private Temperance Hotel. — Economical. Large ICHADIUYVC UlUaUU J Grounds. Tennis. Croquet. Telephone 77. Felixstowe-' iddesleigh 1 1 Bdg. Estab., Constable Rd. — Convenient Situation. Good Table. Mod. Terms. Folkestone-Foster's Castle ia%o^t'lHr?e?-*unf^^^^ every Home Comfort. Established Forty Years. Personal -ALttention. 'Phone 404. Folkestone -Albion House, Cheriton Place — Select Bdg. Estab. Pleasantlv situated. Very Central, i min. fr. G.P.O. & The Leas, & 8 mins.'fr. Central Stn. Fr. 5'- to 6'6 day, fr. 1^ to 2 Gs. wk. according to Season. C. W. SPROWSOX Folkestone— Gloucester — Gorleston-on-Sea 45 FOLKESTONE. EN PENSION TEXMS Finest Position on Leas. Fac South & Sea. Uninterrupted Vie of Channel. Thirty miles of French Coast. Opposite Lift to Beach. Cuisine par Ezcellenc*. Separate Tables. Electric Lifjht. Highly Recommended. Book Folkestone (Central). a. 0. MILWABD, Late Frederick Hotels, Ltd. Folkestone -Devonshire House, ^Sfr^iffrf^Swa^S Continental Boats. Well recommended. Tariff from 6/- per day. Open all t hrough the year. Garage. CHARLES HALL, Proprietor. l?All7AcfAnfl VinfAT>ia Private Hotel, Marine Crescent. Close to Sea, rOlKeSlOne— VlCLOIid Piers, and new Marine Walk. Electric Light. Inclusive Terms. Reduction for Winter Months. Telephone 64. Miss POPE. Folkestone-" Tressillian," ''''^ i''gR?o'"^,Kiec. Light Throu^^^^ „, V II ^"'^CTi H^^ out. Table d'Hote. bep. Tables. Wye Valley ^-.•"^CV^^V'^ Fryer's Garage in connection with HoteL Touts. ^X""^ \>^J^^^ Mod. Tariff. Apply MANAGERESS Telephone 1028. Telegrams: " Dragon, Hereford. Hereford-Private Boarding House;^cSr?rJ.osfSS for Visitors & Tourists to the Wye Valley. Homely & Comfortable. Moderate & Inclusive Terms. Mrs. F. CARLESS, Proprietress. 48 Heme Bay — Ilfracombe HerneBay-ConnaughtHotel.-I'?3„°^a!riL?t|hfSu?h'! out. Redecorated. Open all vear round. Reduced rates for Golfers and Anglers. 'Phone 25 Heme Bay. W. S. KNIGHT, Manager. Excellent Situation. Facing Sea. Select Comfortable. Separate Tables. Personal Supervision The Misses FARLEY. Heme Bay-Imperial ^%iift'B.na & Her Mod. & Inclasive Charges. of Proprietresses, Il-Kl^ACOJYIBE. IMPERIAL HOTEL. UNIQUE SITUATION, FACING SEA AND CAPSTONE. KLECTRIC LIGHT, PASSKISGER LIFT. ^"HIS ■well-known and first-class Private Hotel, replete with comfort and luxury, Vl^ contains 100 Apartments, elegant Loung^e, Drawing, Billiard, and Ball Rooms. Balconies. Golf. E>i pettsioit. troni 42;- to 3i guineas, according to room and season. For Illustrated Tariff, apply to LEONARD PARSONS, Manager. CHAS DREW (Oswestry), Proprietor. Telegrams— "Imperial Hotel, Ilfracombe." Telephone No. 22. THE QUEEN'S HOTEL (Family, Commercial, & Coaching). Opposite General Post Office. Under same Proprietor and Management. Apply for Illustrated Tariff. En pension, from 42/-. Motor Garage. ILFRACOMBE, NORTH DEYOM- First-class Boarding Establishment. Over 2,000 References in Visitors' Books. Magnificent Sea and Land Views. ITew Lounge. P.O. Tel. 15, Forty-four Bedrooms. Baths. Balconies. Electric Light. Separate Tables. Billiards. Comfort. Sociability. Good Cooking_ Bijou Guide gratis. \\'. R. FOSTER, Proprietor. llfracombe'Grosvenor PRIVATE HOTEL. First-class en pension. Close to Sea and Parade, Spacious Publia Rooms. Lounge. Table d'Hote. Separate Tables- Replete with every Comfort. Moderate. Listed Hotel, RA.C. Tel. 63. Garage. Mrs. PICKETT, Proprietress. Ilfracombe-Price's Capstone !f^s,„t?fca"r''f'^,nr.'r;; Pier. 30 Bedrooms. Smoking Rooms, &c. Excellent accommo- dation. Boarding Terms from 5/- day. A. R. PRICE. IlfrflPrtinhP fPPil P"vate Hotel. — Finest Position on Sea Front. Ad- iiiiuuumuo V;DVjH joining Capstone Parade and Pavilion. Magnificent Sea Views. Excellent Cuisine. Table d'Hote daily. Sep. Tables. Garage. Mod. Tariff. Tel. 121. F. A. KNILL, Proprietor. Ilfracombe-Langleigh Park ^.^^f^-lfo^vTG'r^u^dfMSm?™; Sea View. French spoken. Every Comfort. Moderate Terms. Own Dairy Produce. Mr. and Mrs. W. DENDLE, Proprietors. llfrarnnihP ThP flVPniia Boarding House. Select. Near Sea and ilU atUm UC 1 UC M CU UC Parade. Home Comfort. Liberal Table. Boarding Terms from 30/- per week. Moderate NViuter Terras. Miss COATS, Proprietress. Ilfracombe — Inverness 49 TlfrooATTiho RalTnaha Private Boarding Establishment. — Magniticent lllldlUlllUC— DaUUaila Sea view 30 ijiilcs in extent. Three minutes to Beach & Parade. Balcony. Electric LightThroughout. Boarding Terms from 30/- p^r week. Mrs. W. SIMPSON', Proprietress. llfracombe-0ctagon^4Sr'!sw';Tipsr'7a'?:de; and Pavilion. Every Comfort. Moderate Charges. Mrs. W. C. -MURPHY, Proprietress. TlfvQPAmhD rian Mnr — Oxford Park. Private Bdg. Estab. Centrallv 1111 aiiUmUC Uiail UlUl. situated in best part. Magnificent views of Bristol Channel & open countiy. Four minutes Sea. Tennis. Comfort of guests carefully studied. Moderate. Mrs. B. POPE, Proprietress. flfracombe-PORTLAND HOUSE ^,fx tS?:^,'S; splendid Sea View. Near Capstone Parade, Pavilion, and Pier. Terms on application. Mrs. T. STROUT, Proprietress. — Fine Position on Sea Front. Adjoins Capstone Promenade. Two minutes from Pier. Moderate Charges. Personal Supervision. Mrs. F. H. COLWILL, Proprietress. Ilfracombe-Dudley Private Hotel. Ilfracombe-Montebeilo Hotel. -Family & Com. Terms Stricth' Mod., no Extras. Large Dining Hall. Commercial Room. 3 min. from Sea. Bedrooms with Sea View. Tel. 40. Mrs. W. H. S.MYTH, Proprietress. TlfraPAmho '* Q+ Dol'I'Af^ " ^^S- Estab. -Adjoining famous llildlUmUC— OU rCirUO lorrs Walks & Tunnels, Bath- ing Beaches. Smoke Rm. 30 Bedr'ms. Good Cooking & Attendance. Unique position for Winter Residence. Tel. 119 W. L. CHADDER. -Quite close to Capstone Parade, Pavilion, and Pier. Homely and Com- fortable. Liberal Table. Moderate Charges. W. H. LEWIS, Proprietor. llfracombe-Elite =p°fSp??s INVERNESS. WAVERLEY HOTEL, UNSURPASSED FOR SITUATION AND COMFORT, COMBINED WITH MODERATE CHARGES. One Minute's walk from the Railway Station. Porter of the Hotel attends ail Trains, and an Omnibus runs in connection with the Caledonian Canal Steamers. Telegraphic Address— " WAVERLEY." Tel. No. 279. Cook's Coupons Accepted. Q [)/\ VIDSON, PropHetor. Scries, 1914-1915]. 50 Inverness — J ersey — Keswick TnU^iT'ntiQC r^lladnniiin MAtal — First-class. Patronised bv Rovaltv. lllVCllltJbb— tdieUUllldll nUiei. opposite Railway station. Over- looking River Ness, and Miles of Mountain Scenery. Moderate Charges. Garage and Motors. Tel. 246. FRANK STEVENS. Isle of Man (See pages 39 and 70). Isle of Wight (See pages 71, y^' 8O' ^^^ 83)- TorCDV Qfar IlAf/il Facing Harbour. Family & Commercial. Estab. OClDCJf Oiai nUlCl over 70 years. Tariff 7 /-or 8/- (according to room), includes Bed, Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Attendance, & Lights. Tariff Post Free. 'Bus meets all Boats. A. RAYNOR SMITH, Proprietor. TorcDAf Qf Rroluf^o'c Rau St. Brelade's Bay Hotel Old Estab. OOlOOjf 01. DlCldUC Dajf Family Hotel. Facing South, Sea, & Sands. Unsurpassed Sea Bathing. Within mile of two i8-hole Golf Links. Write for mod, inclusive tariff. A. J. HARDEN, Propriet or. Tflycnv TVin Qanrlpinrfyiam Colomberie. — Tennis, BiUiards, Gardens. dBIbtijf— illti OallUIillgllAlll, Young Soc. From25/- I llus. Tariff. -Oldest established Family, Commercial and Tourist Hotel in the Island. Jersey-Royal Yacht Hotel. 3E3 S 'WT X O ROYAL OAK HOTEL ESTABLISHED over 200 years. Situated in the most commanding ■— ' position in the town, and within a few minutes' walk of Denventwater Lake, Golf Links, and Fitz Park. The Hotel has been honoured with the patronage of the late King Edward VII. (when Prince of Wales), the King of Saxony, the Grand Duke Constantine of Russia. The Hotel has undergone extensive alterations and additions, and is to-day one of the most Up-to-date and Best Equipped Hotels in the District. Well-appointed Four-in-hand Coaches leave Hotel daily to all parts of the. Lake District. Garage for 25 Cars adjoining, free for Hotel \'isitor3. Officially appointed Hotel for R.A.A. & M.U. Telephone 23. D. N. PAPE, Proprietor. KESWICK. LODORE HOTEL BOHHOWDALE. ♦ttSEAUTIFULLY Situated at •jO head of Lake Derwentwater and the entrance to Borrowdale. Visitors will find it quiet and restful, a good centre for walking, it being on the High Road to Wast- water, ScawfeU, Great Gabie. Good Trout Fishing m Lake and River. Coach to Buttermere Daily. Two Electric Launches run to Keswick & Portinscale, landing several times daily. Garage. LP. Petrol. Hotel 'Bus meets Trains & Coaches at Keswick. 'Phone 2 Keswick. Tels., " Lodore, Keswick." J. S. HARKER, Proptr. KESWICK.— Head of Derwentwater Beautifully Situated Grounds, amidst the Scenery of the Lake District. own Central for Coaching and Climbing. Garage, trol. Posting. Trout ig. Moderate Tariff. GRAYSON, Proprietress. Keswick — Killarney 51 KESWICK . GILLESPIE'S SKIDDAW HOTEL (UNLICENSED). MOST Central. Within a few minutes' walk of Derwentwater Lake, Golf. Links, Tennis Courts. Croquet & Bowling Greens. Excellent Boating, Fishing, and Climbing. Good Cuisine. Every Comfort. Moderate Charges. GARAGE F. GILLESPIE, Proprietor, KESWICK, Poptinscale. /^i^ / Large and Airy Beautifully situated in its Own X <«^ Prifhhnmr./>. ,^^ ^J^ /Near Post & Telegraph Office. Boating, Climbing, /^g^ 4> ^/ Telephone 38 KESWICK. Coaching, &c. X^^ / Mrs. GILL, Proprietress Keswick-Albion Private Hotel. -S3'?SrPsl^''1„?chesta°;i Hotel Daily to all parts. GARAGE. Day & Choir Parties specially Catered for. Write for Tariff. W. WILSON, Proprietor. Keswick-Balffloral Boarding House, ^%l^t±^^. c^td Centre for Climbing. Bdg. Terms fr. 5 /- per Day. Also Tea and Luncheon Rooms. Mrs. CROSTHWAITE, Proprietress. Killarney-' Innistallen ' Hotel.-^r.2i,'Hotei:'''S!eSrtmCi- able. Reasonable. Excursion parties arranged daily. Terms 1 /- per day inclusive. Trains me t by Hotel Porter & 'Bus. MANAGERESS. Killarney— "Royal Victoria" Hotel, on Lake. Premier Hotel. Patron- ised by Royalty. 'Phone 25 Killarney. Tels., " Victoria, Killarnev." Mrs. Beeton's Cookery Books. ''THE BEST COOKERY BOOKS IN THE WORLD." The Westminster Gazette. — " As companions to puzzled young house- keepers, and as advisers and comforters to all who are responsible for the smooth working of the domestic wheels, Mrs. Beeton's Cookery Books are still unrivalled." MRS BEETON'S HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. Half Leather, 7/6 net. Half Calf or Half Morocco, 12/3 net. Full or Tree Calf, 18/- net. Containing over 2,000 pages of letterpress, besides hundreds of Illustrations and many Coloured Plates, MRS BEETON'S FAMILY COOKERY. Large Crown 8vo, strongly bound. Half Leather, 5/- net. About 850 pages of letterpress, and hundreds of Illustrations, and many Coloured Plates. MRS. BEETON'S EVERYDAY COOKERY. Large Crown 8vo, Cloth Gilt, 3/6 net. 750 pages, including instruc- tions for all and every kind of Cookery, &c., &c. With numerous Coloured Plates and other Illustrations. MRS. BEETON'S ALL ABOUT COOKERY. Large Crown 8vo, Cloth Gilt, 2/6 net. An entirely new edition, in dictionary form, containing 2,500 practical recipes, about 576 pages. With numerous Coloured Plates and other Illustrations. MRS. BEETON'S SHILLING COOKERY BOOK. Large Crown 8vo, Cloth, 1 /- net. Containing upwards of 1,000 recipes, nearly 200 fine Illustrations, and six Coloured Plates. Complete Illustrated List of Cookery Books Post Free on application. WARD, LOCK & CO., Ltd. Salisbury Square, London, E.C. 52 Kerry KINGD OM OF K ERRY. Great Southern and Western Railway Co.'s Hotels. GREAT SOUTHERN HOTEL LAKES OF KILLARNEV. (120 Rooms.) HE most commodious and best-appointed Hotel in the Lake District. Situated in its own extensive orna- mental grounds of about thirty acres, and in the Centre of the Chief Attractions. T SEA BATHING. GOLF. TENNIS. (Parknasili.a. BOATING AND COACHING EXCURSIONS. FREE RIVER, LAKE, AND SEA FISHING. THE OTHER GREAT SOUTHERN HOTELS AT KEN MARE 35 Rooms (Golf) PARKNASILLA WATERVILLE 100 Rooms / Sea \ VBathing/ f near N VKillarney/ 30 / Golf, \ / Sea \ Rooms VFishing/ VBathing/ CARAGH LAKE ^^^ / Goif, ^ ^ sea \ Vr#«nM\an i-#%r\B ^ooj^s VFishing/ VBathing ^ Are beautifully situated on the picturesque New Atlantic Motor Coach Route (of 110 miles) to Killarney, in the midst of magnificent Mountain and Lake Scenery. MODERN MOTORS FOR HIRE. Land's End- -Langland Bay- -Littlehampton 53 LAND'S END, CORNWALL. SENNEN GOVE HOTEL (PRIVATE). (20 luiiuites' Cliff Walk, North of the Land's End.) Situated ou Cliff, 80 ft. above sea level. Lounge 70 t.loiig.overlookinjf Cove. Excellent Sea FiBhing. Mafjnificent Sands (Rare Shells), Bathing, Boating Fi-,hing, Clirt Walks. Land & Sea-scape Scenery. Small Harbour. Most Comfortable. References fr. eminent medi- cal men & others. Terms very Mod. ■' En Pennon." Week- ends. Special Tariff. Open all the year. Ry. Stn : Penzance (G. W. R.), 9 miles distant. ((J. W.R. Motors & other con- veyances run dajly to'Mayon' Sennen. within 10 min. walk.) For Terms apply, F. AVERV, Manager. Late Chef H.M.S. (' 'eriionK Langland Bay, S. Wales- Close to Golf Links. Excellent Bathing Cuisine. Garage. 'Phone 4 Mumbles. Osborne Hotel. ^Lt^ Every Comfort. Good A. BUTTGEN, Proprietor. Leamingtoii~Clarendon Hotel. First-class Fam. Highest and Best Situation". Electric Light. Lift. Garage. Excellent Cuisine. Terms Mod. Billiard & Smoking Room. 'Phone 663. MANAGERESS. Leamington Spa- Langton House Leamington -Crown Hotel .-^S^^^^^'^S:^:t Cuisuie. Close Stations, Pump Rm., & Jephson Gdns. 'Phone 654. Tels., "Crown, Leamington." EDGAR PHILLIPS, Proprietor. High-class Boarding House, Leam. Ter. — Situated nr. Pump Room and Jephson Gdns S. Aspect. Well-appointed. Bath (h. & c). Smoking Room. Liberal Table. Mrs. BROWN & Miss BRYAN . Leamington Spa Hawthorn House ^;.te^;'„„'-SsjR;y3 Pump Rooms. P.O., & Church). Drawing, Dining, and Smoking Rooms. Mod. Tenns. Misses M. & E. STENT, Proprietresses. Leam Terrace. — ■ Near Pump Gardens. Every Comfort. Good Table. Mrs. A. NETTLEY, Proprietress. Leamington Spa-Lothians Boarding House, Room, Baths, and Moderate Charges. Private Bdg. House.— Nr. Pump Room, Baths, Gdns., Parade, & Stations, where Tram Cars start for Warwick. First-class Cuisine. Visitors specially studied. Tennis Courts, Golf Links. & Boats near. M oderate Terms. Mrs. GARDNER, Proprietress. (Opposite G.P.O. and the ^ Jephson Gardens). Parties Catered for. Miss L. F. SIMMONDS, late Manageress of The " Black Boy " Hotel, Nottingham. Leamington Spa -'Maisonette' Leamington The Washington Hotel -The only Strictly First-class Hotel. Beautifully Situated in its Own Grounds, directly facing the Sea. Telephone No. 55. .\. GASCOIGNE, Manager. Littlehampton-The BEACH HOTEL WINDSOR fid MONTHLY MAGAZINE fid MONTHLY 54 Liverpool •^LAURENCE'S Temperance, Commercial, and Family HOTEL Tel. No. Royal 3729. 3 20 & 21, CLAYTON SQUARE, LIVERPOOL. THIS Hotel contains upwards of loo Rooms, includ- ing COFFEE ROOM, PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, BILLIARD and SMOKE ROOM. The BEDROOMS are well ventilated and comfortably furnished. Headquarters Cyclists' Touring Club. The Midland and London and North Western Stations are within three minutes' walk, and the Lancashire and Yorkshire Station and Landing Stage- within a convenient distance. Q CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. LIVERPOOL. ii THE SHAFTESBURY," MOUNT PLEASANT. Adjoining the Roscoe Gardens and Central Hall. A HIGH-CLASS Temperance, Family, and Commercial Hotel, with Moderate Charges. " A Few minutes' walk from Lime Street and Central Stations, and con- venient for the Steamers. Mount Pleasant Cars from the Pier Head and Castle Street (near Exchange Station) stop at the door. Night Porter. Electric Light Throughout. Telegrams — " Shaftesbury Hotel, Liverpool." Telephone — 3882 Royal, Llandrindod Wells — Llandudno 55 LLANDRINDOD WELLS. The British Medical Journal says : " Foreign Spas have nothing better to offer than has Llandrindod Wells." The Rock Park Hotel & Spa SITUATED in its Own Grounds of 40 acres, adjoins the Rock Pump Rooms and Baths, and the extensive Park and Gardens. Near the new Electro Hydropathic Baths. Garage. Posting. Seven miles of Trout Fishing exclusively for the Hotel Visitors. Illustrated Tariff on application to the Manager. Tennis. Bowls and Croquet. Close to Golf Links. P.O. Telephone 2. Telegrams : "ROCK." Llandrindod Wells-Klngsland ^'^'' °°*^' Situated in its own grounds. Facing Common and Golf Links. Close to Pump Rooms & Baths. South Aspect. 'Phone 67. Telegrams, " Chune. Llandrindod." The Misses CHUNE. Llandrindod Wells-Springs Hotel.-S"r„„'i°t;„Ts. aoset Pump Room & Baths. Adjoining Recreation Grounds. Billiards (Full- si ze Table). Garage. 'Phone 47. Tariff, Mrs. BENTLEY, Prop' tress. -High- class. Finest Position. Golfmg and Fishing Centre. Tennis. Croquet, Billiards. Tel.. 27 P-O- JEFFREY JONES, Managing Director. Board & Apartments. — Near Station, Post Office, P mp- rooms, Baths, & Golf Links. Detached, with Croquet Ground at back. Mod. Charges. Hackney Carriage for Hire. H. DAVIES, Prop. Llandrindod Wells Brynawel Hotel Llandrindod Wells-Mai nstone Llanfalrfechan, H. Wales Qoa ViAiAl B<>^ding House -Cen- -OCdi WlC¥V tral situation. PI Garden, & lovely Sea & Mountain Views. Golf, Tennis, & Croquet. Moderate Terms. tral situation. Pleasant Mild climate in Winter. Miss PICKARD, LLANDUDNO. Centrally Situated. Facing Sea. Two Lifts. Elec. Light. I M pebTM:. HO Tev- 140 Rooms. 'Phone 6. "Terms & full particulars— S. CHANTREY, Prop. LLANDUDNO. Recreation Room. Free Golf. New Elec. Lift Tel. Address, '*Middwood." ^.^^^ Facing the Sea. Billiards. aO rs. & Misses SUTTON-JONES, Proprietresses. LLANDUDNO. FIRST-CLASS PRIVATE HOTEL Grand Promenade Facing Sea. Electric Light Throughout^ Lounge. PHONE 340. Close to Pier and Pavilion. Easy Distance to Golf Links. Excellent, Boating, Bathing, Eishing. Coach & Motor Tour>. MODERATE TERMS. 'PHILLIPS. 340 LLANDUDNO." Proprietress, Mrs. PHILLIPS. Llandudno-Craigside Hydro. -L'il's'?SL:'RS=„^"S"^' Water). Open & Covered Tennis Courts. Motor Garage Evening Entertainments. Electric Light & Lifts. R. E. MUNRO, Mangr. Llandudno Davies' Private Hotel TaU^nlr "^Joni^xS- situated. Close Sea, Golf Links, Stn., & G.P.O. Elec. Light. Every Comfort. Very Mod. Charges. Pte. Apts. Mrs. DAVIES, Propts. Llandudno-Empire Hotel k'^sS^ vJ ws^'SS? Prom. Verandah. Heated throughout. Ex. Cuisine. Close Pier & Prom. Garage. Close Golf Links. Free Golf (inclu. Sunday play) to visitors in Hotel. 'Phone 259. Apply Mrs. J. HALL, Proprietress. —First-class Bdg. Estab., Grand Parade (facing Sea). Estab. 1881. Near Pier,Pav- ilion, Golf Links, Tennis, &c. All Rooms command fine Sea or Moun- tain Views. Mod. & Liclu. Terms. 'Phone 360. Misses LAWTON. Llandudno- Sherwood lT"''?f„»^°Si„rS!*vie:v""„1 Picnics, Motor and Coach Parties Mrs. E. L. PARRY. Llandudno Heath House, Bay & Ormes. .Electric Light, arranged. Moderate Terms. Llandudno Overstrand Golf, Bowling, Electric Light. Tennis. Lounge. First-class Bdg. Estab. Promenade. Facing Sea. 3 miii. Pier Pavilion. Table d'Hote, 6.30. Separate Tables. Mrs THORNTON-WARD. Llandudno Clan-y-Mor °°?^^:?i.t'"'Jt1i S^he^pS: Pavilion, and Golf Links. Moderate and Inclusive Terms. Tels., " Glamor, Llandudno." Mrs. J. ROUND. Llandudno — London 57 TlanHnHnn Woof rnH Private Hotel, Glgddaeth St. — CloseBeach, Pa- LldllUUlllJU— H COl liUU vilioa. Pier, Happy Valley. Views of both Bays. Special attention paid to Cuisine of highest quality. Every effort to ensure comfort of guests. Mrs. PATRICK, Prop'tress. Llandudno-Brig-y-Don°.1ge°^-ii':TBA''R'SfTT: liOCH AlffE HOTEL, LOCH AWE STATION (Caledonian Railway). LIFT FROM STATION TO HOTEL. Motor Garage with Lock=ups. Petrol and Oil. Accumulators Charged. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. SPLENDID 9.HOLE GOLF COURSE. TENNIS. SALMON AND TROUT FISHING. Send for Illustrated Tariff. Mrs. FRASER, Proprietrix. WEST CENTRAL HOTEL 71 FIRST-CLASS Hotel for Ladies and Gentlemen. Pro- /■ nounced by the Press the Best Temperance Hotel in the United Kingdom. Accommodation for about 200. Electric Light and Passenger Lifts. Highly commended by thousands of Guests from all parts of the world. Apartments, Service, and Table d'Hote Breakfast from O/ * Full Tariff, with Gtiide io London, on at>plica/ion to — TeUgrams—" Quietude, London." FREDERIC SMITH & SONS. Southampton Row, London. LONDON. DEMETER HOUSE, Private & Residential High-class Boarding Establishment, QUEEN SQUARE, BLOOMSBURY, W.C. CENTRAL for City and West End. Near British Museum, ten minutes King's Cross, St. Pancras, and Euston Railway Stations ; close to Omnibus Routes and Electric Railway. Electric Light Throughout. Heated Throughout in Winter. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Boarding Terms from 6s. per day, 35s. per week. Mrs. E. IVENS BLUE, Proprietress. LondOD-IVIONTACUE HOTEL, '^'ZiersSS,'^.S: Bed, Breakfast, & Attendance— Single, 3/6 to 6/-; Double, 6/6 to 11/- Silence Room for Students. Tels., "Faithful, Westcent, London." 'Phone, Central 9992. Close to British Museum. M WILLIAMS, Proprietress. 58 London IMPERIAL Hotel *' 1000 Rooms Central Potition Ifagnificently Furnished. Ratsell Square. LONDON. Room Aad BreAkfast, from ^j" FAULKNER'S HOTELS LONDON FAULKNER'S HOTEL VILLIER8 ST., STRAND, LONDON. Alongside Charing Cross Station. BED, BREAKFAST, BATH, fr. 4/3 4 COURSE LUNCHEON 1/6 6 COURSE DINNER 2/- New Lounge and Billiard Rooms. ELECTRIC LIGHT. NIGHT PORTERS. Telegraphic Address : Telephone No. Neighborly, London. 3051 Gerrard. CITY CENTRAL HOTEL NEWGATE ST., &PANYER ALLEY, LONDON, Facing General Post Office. CENTRAL FOR EVERYWHERE. Bed, Breakfast, Bath (h. or c), and Attendance //'om 3/6 Inclusive Terms from 7/6 per day. Table D'Hote Luncheon, 1/6' Electric Lighi Throughout. Night Porter. Telegraphic Address : Telephone No. Comfortable, London. 5319 Central J. H. FAULKNER, Propnietop. VISITORS TO LONDON. "TRANTER'S HOTEL" (Temperance) , 6, to 9, BRIDGEWATER SQUARE. BARBICAN, E.G. MOST CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE. Two minutes' walk to Aldersgate Street Underground Railway Station. 5 to 7 rr.inutes' walk from G.P.O., St. Paul's Cathedral, and City Temple. 10 minutes to Guildhall and John Wesley's Chapel. Quiet, Home-like, and Comfortable. Inclusive Charge — Bed- rooms, Single 2/6 to 3/6 ; Double 4 6 to 6/6. Breakfast or Teas, 13 to 2 - WRITE FOR "How to spend a week (or longer) In London," with Tariff Post free. WM. LOSSUCK, Resident Proprietor. Telegrams-" HEALTHIEST, LONDON." 'Phone—" Central 1959. York Street, St. James's Square. — ') One minute Piccadilly Circus. Electric Light. Separate Tables. No Charge for Attendance. Room and Breakfast from 5/- Regent qqi. 121-122, Queen's Gate, Hotel Imperial, ^ ^S'^.^u Residential Hotel. Two mins. fr. S. Kensington & Gloucester Rd. Stns. Large & lofty Bedrooms. Ex. Cuisine. Sep. Tables. Very Mod. Terms. En Pension or othewise. 'Phone No. 884 Western. IVAR REITZ, Proprietor. Loadon-Bonn's Surrey Hotel, London 59 HOME FROM HOME IN THE HEART OF LONDON. EMPRESS HOTEL 54 to 60, WATERLOO BRIDGE ROAD, LONDON. Two minutes from Waterloo Terminus (L. & S. W. Rly.) CENTRAL for BUSINESS or PLEASURE, and within easy distance of all Places of Interest. Bed, Breakfast, and Service from 3/6. Other Charges equally Moderate. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. Full Tariff on Application. Telegrams: "Empress Hotel, London." Telephone: 1390 Hop. F. FAiRMANER, Proprietor. LONDON. WILD'S HOTEL (First-class Temperance), 34-40, LUDGATE HILL. ELECTRIC LIFT AND LIGHT. (Central for Charing Cross, Cannon Street, and Holborn Viaduct Stations, for the Continent, id. 'Bus ride from King's Cross & St. Pancras Stations; lAd. from Euston). Home Comforts. Cleanliness and Quiet. Central for Business or Pleasure. BED & BREAKFAST 5s. AND 6s., ACCORDING TO ROOM. FOUR-COURSE LUNCHEON (Is. 6d.) DAILY, SUNDAYS EXCEPTED. OPEN TO NON-RESIDENTS. Phone— 4695 Holborn. Tels.— " WUd's Hotel, Cent., London." 6o London — Londonderry — Lyn mouth I.ftnrinTl -WflQhiTllJtnn Residential Hotel & Bdg. House. 50 Rooms. UUUUUll U a^limglUU Eh pension. 53- Guildford St., five houses from Russell Sq., principal entrance. Estab. 25 years. Highly recom- mended. Full Board & Residence from 25/- weekly, 5/- dailv. Bed & Breakfast from 3 /6. No Extras. Bath & BiUiards Free. " I f»Tlf1r»n ^hflrmfln' Q Temperance Hotel, 30 & 32, Waterloo Road, S.E. L.UUUUU Oliaimail (NearBrldge).— 3 mlns. from Waterloo station, 5 mins. from Strand. Central for business or pleasure, and noted for cleanliness & mod, charges. Bedioom. Breakfast & Attendance fr. 3 ''6. Londonderry-Ulster Hotel.ifofe';S'rpp^fa'S?Js.*=ctSf"?iSi,i„',l'. Baths (H. & C). 'Bus meets all Trains. 'Phone 163. Elec. Light. Cook's Coupons accepted. Garage Free. Miss KELLY, Prop' tress. I AHrAn|Af|— ESPLANADE PRIVATE HOTEL.— Newly erected. Finest and UUiiColUil best appointed house on Sea Front. Large Dining Hall {sep. tables), and all public rooms facing sea. Everj' modem convenience. Mod-Terms. 'Phone 298. Mr. & Mrs JENNER, Resident Proprietors. T rtWOClf nft—' ' Tha riuffo ' ' Private Hotel & Boarding House.— Open all LiUYYuOLUll lilCt/lJfilC the Year. Delightful Position. FacingSea. Spacious Dining, Drawing, & Smoking Rs. Lounge. Private Tennis Court. Table d'Hote. Sep. Tables. Illus Tariff Free. Mrs. NEEVES . LOWESTOFT (South)-THE DAGMUR 'tf ^i^^F.LTa .•\musements. Young Society. Liberal Table & Excellent Cuisii.e. Picnics arranged. Special Winter Terms. Mrs. FAIRCHILD. TnWAQfnff " Qmifh Viaw " Private Hotel.- oldest Established. UUYKCOlUll OUUlli IICVK First-class position, midway between Piers and Baths. Select. Moderate. Comfortable. Apply Mrs. WESTGATE- Lowestoft-" Stafford Honse" "Bt;§Sg i:fib°^'c«;.5'oTbo.h Piers. Uninterrupted Sea View. 10 mins. from Golf Links and Tennis Courts. Moderate Tariff Proprietors, Mr. & Mrs. C. WARREN. T nwflcf ftft rilffoiHa Private Hotel, Kirkley Cliff. — Best position on liUWC&LUll— timDlUC Sea Front. Dhiing Hall (Separate Tables). Large Lounge. Ladies' Drawing Room. Private TennisCourts. Garage close to Hotel. (Open all the year.) R. G. COPLING. Proprietor. Lyme Regis-Royal Lion Hotel.-^a^xf ^^ ^^^%\^Mell''' TumoRodiQ QfiloUnilCa "Pension."— Pleasantly Situated. Mod. LjfmpRC5lD— OllienUlibC Tnns. Mr. & Mrs. CROUCHER, Prop'tors. Lymington TheLondesborongh.^^^com.^gcffHoa"""' "" TunHhllYiof Qfori Unfnl —Old-established & Comfortable. Central. LjfllUllUlbl 010,5 nULCl. Terms Moderate. Billiard Room. Hotel Carriages meet any train for Forest Drives. Hacks and Hunters. Hdqrs. C.T.C tariff on application to C. W. HARRIS, Prop. Lyndhurst cHants)-" Crown Hotel, "-StSSi.^^f^eb^t 1897). Facing South. Electric Light. 60 Bed & Sitting Rooms. Large Gardens. Motor Garage. Livery Stables. Tel. No. 13. Tels., " Crown, Lyndhurst." Lynfflouth-Summer House ^%t^ if ??-cS£ Garden, &c. Liberal Table. < Tennis. Sea and River Fishing 6" THE WINDSOR 6" THE GREAT H^LUSTFATED MONTHLY. Garden, &c. Liberal Table. 4 mins. Sea, Esplanade, &c. Golf, nd River Fishing. ED. PETERS, Proprietor. Lyn mouth — Lynton 6i LYNMOUTH. NORTH DEVON. The Oldest Established First-class Family Hotel in Lvnmouth. 1^ CO* TO » B t-» o c Nearest Hotel to Watersmeet, Doone Valley, and Most Central for Devon and Somerset Staghounds. Ilfracombe & Minehead Coaches stop at Hotel. Conveyances meet all Trains. Electric Light Throughout. Garage for lo Cars adjoining the HoteL Petrol. Headquarters A. A. Salmon and Trout Fishing. Good Stabhng. A. W. GAYDON, Proprietress. LYNMOUTH. BATH HOTEL Family and Residential. THE ONLY HOTEL CLOSE TO THE SEA. Everything Up-to-date. Liberal Table. Moderate Tariff. MOTOR GARAGE. Personal Supervision of Proprietor and his Wife. J. B. PARSONS, Proprietor. Telephone 38. Tcleg. Address: "Bath.'" LYNTON N. Devon. HIGH-CLASS Boarding Establishment. Beautifully situated in Owu Grounds, on the sunny side of a hill, about 400 feet above, antl facing Sea ; commanding Finest Views of Sea and Coast, River Lyn, and far-famed Watersmeet V^allev. Also OLDEST Established Boarding House in Lynton. Even,' Comfort. Moderate Terms. Private Board and Apartments if required- H. and C. Baths. Electric Light. Terms on application to— The Misses COURTEEN & MADDOCKS. Tels., " Fairholm, Lynton." 62 Lynmouth — Lynton LYNMOUTH, N, Devon, BEVAN'S LYN VALLEY HOTEL OVERLOOKING the meeting of the East and West Lyn, and ad- j oining the far - famed Glen Lyn Grounds. On the borders of the Lorna Doone country. The Largest First-class Family Hotel in Lyn- mouth Coaches to Mine- head and Ilfracombe daily. Electric Light Throughout. Good Salmon and Trout Fish- ing. Sea Fishing. — Man and Boats kept for use of Visitors staying in the Hotel. Golf Links. Bath- ing. Tennis. Lock-up Garage. L P. Petrol. Officiallv appointed for R.A.'C and A.C.U. All Tariff Moderate. Mrs. CECIL BEVAN, Proprietress. Telegrams— " Sevan, Lynmouth TeL 46. Please Note Address. LYNTON (N, Devon), ROYAL CASTLE HOTEL. In the LORNA DOONE Country. Elec. Light Throughout. Table d'Hote. Reading & Drawing Rooms- Newly constrjcted Lounge, with loveliest views in England. 'Bus meets all trains. Daily Coaches to Minehead & for Excursions. loo Horses kept for Driving & Hunting. Private Fishing for Hotel. Motor Garage. Moderate TarifiE. Phone 48. Telegrams, " Castle, Lynton." TOM JONES, Proprietor. Maidenhead — Malvern 63 Maidenhead-on-Thames-St. Ives Family II ^^#^ I — 80 Rooms. First-class. London onlv 30 minutes. nULCIa Terms from 35/- to 52/6 per week. Thone 188. MALVERN. An Ideal HEALTH RESORT for Summer and Winter. VT^ Nine mile range of Hills. Mag- nificent Scenery. Purest Water. Bracing and Invigorating Climate. Sanitation Perfect. Baths (includ- ing famous Droitwich Brine) . Golf. Hunting, Tennis, Croquet, &c. Good Motoring Centre. Good Band in Gardens. For free Guide, apply Secretary, Improvement Association, Malvem. Gt. MALVERN PORTLAND Private Hotel. S. Aspect. Central. Overlooking Manor Park. Perfect Sani- tation Billiards. Electric Light. Lounge. Write for Illustrated Tariff. Garage. Tel. 15I. D. WOODMAN, Proprietor. MALVERN HOUSE HOTEL. First Class Private & Residential. GREAT MALVERN. 'Phone. Malvern 202. Estab. 1867. Centrally' situated for Golf Links, Col- lege, Hills, & Town. Sepa- rate Tables. Smoke Room, Drawing- Room, & Lounge on Entrance Floor. Private Rooms en suite (facing south). Large Garden with Tennis and Croquet Lawn. Baths (H. andC). Electric Light. Sanitary Certificate. Inclusive charges per day or week. House heatecf. Quiet and Comfortable. Mrs. H. L. Perkins, Proprietress. Malvern (Great)-lmperial HoteL-G^^iSffsf^es^: First-class, with inclu. charges. Beautiful views. Extensive Grounds. Sunniest position. Faces South and West. Elevator. Electric Light. Suites of Rooms with Bathroom. Rooms on Ground Floor. Cheerful Lounge. Garage, with Inspection Pit. Loose Boxes. Hunters. For Tariff, apply to the Resident Proprietor, F. MOERSCHELL. Telephone No, 5- 64 Malvern — Marazion — Margate M««luAi«M Pl-/%eifOnni" Private Hotel.— CentraUy situated. In WlcllVerfl— UrUbVenUr own Grounds. South Aspect. Heated in Winter. Magnificent views of the Hills and Severn Valley. 'Phone 155. Under the Personal Management of Mrs. MOORE. Proprietress. Malvern-Aldwyn Tower «^|-^^^Saievi"'co„venSruo?Tni Hills. Balconv commanding magnificent views. Highly recom- mended. Electric Light. Mrs. FRED. J- SMITH. Proprietress. Malunnti Pni nun I Private Residential Hotel. —Beautifully M8llY6ril-uULUniLL situated in own grounds. Highly re- commended. Write for descriptive tariff, with local views. Tel. 91. Mrs. BRAY HARTLAND, Proprietress. Marazion, Cornwall-Codolphm Hotel/ Management. Close to Sea and opp. St. Michael's Mount. Bathing, Fishing, and Boating. Garage. Nr. Golf Links. J. M. MOORE, Proprietor. 'Phone II Marazion. Tels., " Godolphin, Marazion." Margate, Cliftonville-Tlie Albemarle S^f-ZaSfgl^tlit appointed. Choice Stock of Wines & Cigars. Moderate Tariff. 'Phone 21x Margate. Mr. & Mrs. G. W. BIRD, Proprietors. Margate-Marlborough House, ''°^r,l,ue"S!o"„: Facing Sea Private Lawn to Marine Prom. Close Links, New Concert & Bathing Pavilions. 'Phone 116 Margate. Mr. & Mrs. SMALL. Margate, Cliftonville- Hotel Florence- Well-appointed. Facing Sea. Liberal Table. BilUard Room. .Mr. & Mrs. W. JAMIESOX, Proprietors. Margate (Cllfton¥ille)-Roydon ??ptSe.?°S '^o^Z the CUffs, facing Sea and Oval Bandstand. Liberal Table. Comfort of Visitors first consideration of Proprietresses. Misses THOMPSON. Margate, Clltton¥ilie-"Garnel(l" ^fJ^s^^.,f^\S^. Most Select & Best fart of Cliftonville. Well appointed. Ex. Cuisme & Service. Reduced Terms for Winter. Apply PROPRIETRESS. Margate, CLIFTONVILLE-Highcliffe Hal|-p<,53 Promenade). Private Suites, Close to Public Tennis Courts, Croquet Lawn, &c. (Baths). 'Phone 358 S. COLLINGWOOD, Proprietor. Margate, CUflonYllle-Athelstan l"!: ^^^^'^^nl^S stand Separate Tables. Good Service. Comfort and Cleanliness Guaranteed. Mrs. A. MAUNDER WILLIAMS. Margate (Cllttonvllle)-'' Stanmore'' K'^^sS'?tw'c£« Promenade. Comfort. Good Table and Moderate Tariff are the leading features. E. H. LAWN, Proprietor. Margate— rIOrilKlOWIl FamUv and commercial. Well-appointed. Elec, Light. 30 Bedrooms. Spacious Lounge & Dining Hall. Terms Mod. Tels., " Fasham, Margate." 'Phone 402. E. T. FASH AM. Margate (CUftonyllle;-" Dalkeith," fSi^^"^^. Estab., thoroughly Up-to-date,& Replete with every Comfort. Finest position, facing Sea, on Flagstaff \ romcnade. The Misses STODD.-\RT Proprietressev. Margate (Cliftonville) Norton HouserSn ^^^In of Cliftonville. 1 miu. Sea front. Oval & Bathing. Close to Links. Well-appointed. Mod. Terms. Ideal Winter Residence. Apply Prop. Matlock — Minehead 65 S M E D L E Y'S HjdropatUc Establishment, MATLOCK. -♦- Za S TF .i^ ^ X. X S JEX ZS X> X853 ®NE of the largest and most complete in the Kingdom, extensively patronised all the year round by Pleasure-seekers as well as those requiring Hydropathic Treatment. Daily average of Visitors, 240. An unrivalled suite of Hydropathic Baths, including an up-to-date installation of Electrical Appliances. Consulting and Resident Physicians. A large Staff (upwards of 50) of trained male and female Nurses, Masseurs, and Bath Attendants. Motor Service. Matlock Golf Links — 18 holes, within 15 minutes* walk. TERMS : — 8/6 to 12/- per day, inclusive, according to Bedroom, no extra charge for Turkish and Ordinary Hydropathic Baths. Illustrated Prospectus on application to— H. CHALLAND, Managing Director. Telegrams — " Smedleys, Matlock." Telephone No. 17. MATLOCK. Oldham House & Prospect Place Hydros For HEALTH, PLEASXJRE, AND HOLIDAY. Accommodation for 100 Visitors. HYDROPATHIC TREATMENT A SPECIALITY. Tennis, Croquet, Bowls, Billiards. Motor Garage. 18-hole Golf Links near. Splendid Centre for Coaching Tours. For Illustrated Prospectus apply L. G. WILDGOOSE, Manager. Mat]nPkR;ith new bath hotel. Ilrst-class Family & Rcsi- lUdllULiiDClLii deutial Standing in Extensive Ornamental Grounds. (Thermal Water) Swimming Bath. Garage. Offtciallv Appointed R.A.C. & A. A. 'Phone 39 Matlock. Apply for Tariff". JOHN NOBILE (Late Hotel Cecil). Minehead-Hotel ffletropole. ~\s'S;^^;;^ 7f ^s:fr;pr^=?dc; Lift. Electric Light Throughout. Croquet & Tennis Lawns. I,arge Stabli ng accommodation. Tel. 11. Tels., "Metropole, Minehead." Private Hotel- — On High Ground. Views of Hills & Sea. Table d'Hote, sep. tbls- Garage. Stabling. Tennis Ct. Billiard Room. Smoking Lounge. Elec. Light. lUus. Tariff. Tel. 25. Personal Supervision PROPRIETOR & WIFE. Minehead ^Carlton Private Hotel.^ffow„''Lou,X3™lnt^n Sea, Pier, Station, &c. Golf, Hmiting. Elec. Light. Every Comfort. Baths, h. & c. Garage. Mod. & Inclu. Terms. Tel. 6o. .Apply PROP. -Hopcott Series, 1914-15] 66 Minehead — Morecambe — Newquay fflinehead-The "Plume of Feathers" Hotel (Establish<=d. over 3 50 years). The only Hotel in Minehead facing South. Garage. 'Phone No. 8. G. THRISTLE. Proprietor. , Sea. Tariff Golf, i8 Holes. Tel. 384. For Particulars, applv W. L. ANDREWS. Morecarabe-The Atlantic ^^ie'Kr,f IcSl ivfo^Ta r^ORTEHOE, N. DEVON. 'WATERSMEET' ? I RST-CLA.SS Private Boarding^ Establish- ment. Charminjjly situ- ated in its Own Grounds, adjoininjj^ Sea and Beach witli private path thereto, and close to the famous W o o 1 a c o m b e Sands. Good Bathing close to house. Tennis, Croijuet, and Bowls. Golf Links (18 hole). South Aspect. Highest of References in \'isi tors' Books. Moderate and Inclusive Terms. A. E. CHUGG, Prop'tor. Mumbles. For Langland Bay, see page 53. HEADLAND HOTEL PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY. BEST Position on the Cornish Coast. Most Comfortable Hotel and Moderate Tariff. Electric Light and Lift. Two Billiard Tables. Motor Garage. G.W.R. Corridor through train all seasons. Officiaily appointed by the Royal Automobile Club. The Only Hotel in Newquay adjoining the Golf Links. Wewquay, Cornwall . ST. RUMON'S Private Boarding House. •teE.\UTIFULLY situ- •^*^ ated, facing the Sea. Adjoining Beach & Golf Links. Terms Moderate and Inclusive. 'Phone 78. Mrs. JOHNS, Proprietress. WfiAirniiiv Plinnvmor^O Boarding House.— Facing Sea and Bathing neWQUay— AUnDVIUeUe Beaches. two minutes from Station. Golf Links within easy distance. Every Comfort. Moderate Tcmis. Mrs. R. A. HALL, Proprietress. Newqn.iv — Oxford 67 NEWQUAY, CORNWALL. Trevanlon Private Hotel. Thirty-eight Rooms. Sea View. Close to Beach and Station. j:iectric Light. Certificated Sanitation. Terms Moderate. TUELAWNEY PRIVATE APARTMENTS. Mrs. RIPPON, Proprietress. Telephone 44. NEWQUA Y.-First-class ■"^^■"— ^— Family Hotel Facing Sea and Bathing Beaches Every Comfort. Terms Moderate. Sanitary Arrange- ments Peiiect. Five minutes' walk from Station. Golf Links One Mile. . 'Phone 27 Newquay. For Tariff applv to Manageress. Newquay-Tremont Bdg. Estab., ^"^i'Lt^'^-^r"^:^ S^: forts. Adjoining Golf Links. Garage. Smoking Lounge. Good Bath- ingnr. house. Mod. Tariff. Mrs. STUART CRABB, Proprietress. Newquay-Beresford Private Hotel. Facing the Atlantic Ocean. E. HAN KINS, Proprietress. Newquay -Fulford's Great Western (Temp.) Hotel- Close to Station, Sea, & Cliffs. Everv Comfort. Moderate Terms. 'Phone 34. Tels.. " Fulford." E. T. FULFORD, Proprietor. "WflWniiaV Tho Tliff Boarding Establishment— DeUghtfully Situated, llCllVllUajf lllC villi facing Sea, with lawn extending from house to chff edge. Overlooking Bathing Beach. Electric Light. Terms on application to The PROPRIETRESS. Board Residence (on CUl'f Edge). Terms Moderate Highly recom- Mr. & Mrs. M.ATHEWS. Hewquay (Island Estate)-Highb!iiry Every Comfort. Facing Sea. mended Newqyay-"Cle^edo^ looking Beaches. Winter Months. JJ Boarding House. — Island Estate. Beautilully Situated, over- Electric Light Throughout Special Terms for Miss E. CONLEY, Proprietress. OX FQ R P. — First-class Family. Centre of High Street. te^ ESTABLISHED 1400. Elec. Light. Telephone 35. - " „, CT » ■ '^ ' — — „ ■ ••• R b Vl— — ■ — Moms " T C Wi • * ** ^^-—^ Garage. Billiards. "T |-| *^ »^ Miss THORNE, Manageress. ■ ^— **"*'^ Telegraphic Address— "m.\xe,O^OT±'" OXFORD. RESIDENTIAL HOTEL, IFFLEY ROAD. Terms Moderate. Near Colleges and River. Good Public Rooms. Private Sitting Rooms i! required. Miss BAKER, Proprietress. 68 Oxford — Paignton — Patterdale — Penrith 13 to 17, MAGDALEN STREET. Oxford-OXENFORD HALL, iprtvate ano IResiOential Ibotel. In the Centre of City. Near Colleges. And opposite Martyrs' Memorial. Terms Moderate. MISS D. WATSON. PAIGNTON, S. DEVON. RAMLEH Private Hotel, Esplanade. WELL-FURNISHED, * ^ High-class Estab- lishment. Table d'Hote. Separate Tables. First- class Cooking & Seivice. The House has double Frontage, facing S. & E., and extensive Sea View. Inclusive Terms on appli- cation. Address — • PROPRIETRESS. PATTERDALE, PENRITH. ULLSWATER HOTEL •a o .^ (U .p- o be a cs CO pa5 . o o ii^NLARGED and Re-modelled. One of the largest and best-situated ^^ Hotels in the district, bordering on Ullswater, which is unquestion- ably the Lake which combines the greatest variety of sceneiy. Plelvellyn and Airev Force are within a short distance. Steamer arrives and departs from the Hotel Grounds. THOMAS BOVVNASS, Proprietor. i Penrith-Crown Hotel. Posting. Moror Cars for Hire Trains. Tel. 91. Ni?ht Porter. —The LeaoUng Hotel. Otiicially Appointed R.A.C. and .\.A. Free Fishing. 'Bus meets all T. & W. SIDDLE, Proprietors. Penrlth-Castle Temperance Hotel. The Lake District. Every Comfort. Personal Attendance by Proprietress, —Two minutes' walk from Station. Most Central for Strictly Moderate Charges. E. GRAHAM. Penzance — Plymouth — Portree 69 Penrith, For Ullswater, see pa.s^e 80. PENZANCE. ALEXANDRA Pension. ♦tCEAUTIFULLY Situated. *^^ Tennis Courts, Esplanade Facing , Bowl- ing Green, & overlooking Mounts Bay. Best Part of Penzance. Cook's Coupons Accepted. Mrs. MANN, Proprietress. 'Phone 120. Penzance-BeacMeld House, Home Comfort. Excellent Terms for Winter Months. First-class Bdg. Estab. facing Sea and Promenade. -Situated Ever)' Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Special Mrs. E. SCOBEY, Proprietress. Penzance-Wardour Pension, ^il'^te tS^^^I^I^. Close to Tennis Courts and Bowling Green. Facing South. Special Winter Terms. Mrs. C. W. B.-\LL, Proprietress. Penzance-Stielbourne Bdg. House, ^JS sotth Aspe'ct^gse to Pavilion and Tennis Courts. Central for Coaching and Motor Trips. Moderate Winter Terms. Mrs. B. SALTER, Proprietress. Penzance Mount's Bay Hotel. Penzance-Queen's & Riviera Palace Hotels. .' irst f lass Family. On Esplanade. Facing Sea. Telephone in all Rooms. 'Phone iS. Tels., "Hotel, Penzance." Garage near. WALTER H. PULMAN, Proprietor. — Tariff on Application. PLYMOUTH. HOE MANSION HOTEL. The Hoe. First-class Private & Resi deiui^l. Sea View. Well-appointed. 50 Rooms. Electric Light. New Lounge. Good Cuisine. Sep. Tables. Billiard Room (fuU-sizPii table). Terms, daily or weekly. Mod. (.V Inclii. Garage free. Private Suites if required. ' Phon e. 533. ICls., "HOE MANSION, PLYMOUTH," Apply Secretary for Illustrated Tariff. Best Centre for Marine and Moor- land Excursions. Plymouth-Roslyn Pension, Leigham Terrace, The Hoe. — Situated central for sea, town, & station. Cheer- ful House. Baths (h. & c). Billiards. Highest References given. Terms, 30/- to 42/-: July 15 to Sept. 15.35/- to 51/6- Prop'tress. Portree, Skye-Royal Hotel -^::^icr"*ro v,°" Skyeand Outer Hebrides. Booklet on Application. 70 Port Erin — Portrush — Ramsgate — Rhyl Port Erin, I.M.-Eagle Hotel.iSS'Fiinrs'S: Boating, Bathing, Fishing, and Bowling. Moderate and Inclusue Tariff. Proprietor, C. F. LUFT. Port Erin Snaef ell Private Hotel.^£e I^olSI Needle, Shower, and other Baths. Large Ball Room. Liberal Table. Hig;hly Recommended Tariff. J. PAGE. PropricLor. Port Erin, I.M.-Headlancfs Private Hotel.- Overlooking the whole Bay and Headlands. Adjoining Golf Links. Garage. Personal Supervision. Tariff. Apply P. D.'\NSON. Portrush (Ireland)- ' ' Eglinton ' ' Hotel, -^'^^'"^l class Accommodation for Tourists and others. Moderate Tariff. Apply MAN.AGER. PORTRUSH-" Skerry Bhan" .^1refr.^r^?S;r Ex Cuisine. Late Dinner (7 p.m.) 'P'honeNo. 28. Tels., " Skeny. Bhan, Portrush." Further particulars from PROPRIETRESS. Portsmouth-Speedwell ''SSr?r5?,ftoa"T.-'? '^^ class Accommodation at Moderate Rates. Restaurant attached. Night Boots. 'Phone 198- ALFRED GRIGSBY, Proprietor. Pwllheli, N. Wales— WEST END HOTEL— First-class Family.— The onlv licen- sed Hotel on Sea Front. Tarilf on app. J. HOHEXBERG. Prop. Ramsey-Creeba Bdg. Kouse,^t'a?£"i:'s°S,ng''rd Concert Rooms. Close to Open-air Baths, Golf Links, Tennis Courts. Park & Lake. Baths (H. & C). Mrs. KNEALE, Proprietress. Ramsey, I. of M-"Toxteth" S°Sgi? ?ro,?SS"-^ Facing Sea. Close to Open-air Baths, Golf, Tennis. Accommodation for 75- Small Table-,. Mrs. MATHISON, Proprietress. 'Phone, 8o Ramsgate RAMSGATE. Tels :" Sanclu, Ramsgate." HOTEL ST, CLOUD. Ramsgate The Bull & George Hotel. ^'|S/^ Family, & Commercial. Old Estab. Higlily Recommended. Mo'l. Tariff. Ex. Cuisine. Billiards (2 Tables). Garage. 'Phone 277. Miss HAYWARD. Proprietress. Rhyl, N. Wales-Emlyn House ^Z'^est^'l'S'lad'g"!'™! Bathing, Golf, &c. Every Comfort. Moderate Terms. Mrs. R. B. MXOX, Proprietre^s. Phul Tko "'Hilimn" Boarding House, \\:;'|g;^i Links. Smoke Rooms, Lounge, & 40 large airv Bedrooms. Elec. Light. Open all the Year round. 'Phone irO.' Mis^ MITCHELL. RiPON^The Unicorn Hotel. ^?1;„,SifS'K^^r Garage and Inspection Pits. Officially appointed Hotel tor tlie R.A.C., M.U., & A. A. Centre for Yorkshire Dales and Abbeys. Ross-on-Wye — Rostrevor — Saltburn — Sandown 71 Ross-on-Wye-King's Head Hotel. ers*e"t"rB"S: ing, Fishing, &c. Telephone : 34. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Tariff. Proprietress, Mrs. B. MILES. ROSS, WYE VALLEY-Road and River Toyrs. Illustrated Programme. B. HOLMWOOD CAWS, Valley Hotel, Ross. Principal Private Hotel in the County. Ross-on-Wye Raglan Private Hotel. Kou'SS! Golf, Boating, Fishing, &c. Moderate Charges. Mrs. E. JENKINS. Rostrevor, Co. Down- " Craig-a-Vad. ' ' irS:fS„„^l5-t.^?fgt more. Mag. view Carlingford Lough. Bathing, Fishing, Golf. 5 /-to Q/. day, according to rooms. Reduction long periods. Prop' tress. DiirlA I W Piirifiya Boarding Establishment. — Finest Po.sition on nyilUy lift ■— nnlCla Sea Front. Overlooking Pier, Gardens, and Bandstand. Balconies and Roof Promenade. Electric Light Throughout Moderate Terms. Anrlv PROPRIETRESS. ST. IVES. CORNWALL . ^X^J^* ^^ ^^"^^ ^° Bathing Beach, Tennis Courts, First-class Boarding ^^^^^^ "and Golf Links. and Atlantic. ^^ \\y^ The Misses KNAPP, Proprietresses Establishment. ^^^^^ ^^^/piighly recommended. i^^ Fine Views of Bay ^y^C^O'\y^ Special Winter Terms. St- Ives, Cornwall-Trevessa ^gotL-Sv'atd Position. Overlooking Bay. Special Winter Terms. 'Phone 43. Particulars and Tariff from Miss NEWTON. St. Leonards-on-Sea-Eversfleld House/^-^Fi;s?-:LtZSg Estab. Facing Sea. Re-dec. & Enlarged. Sep. Tables. Smkg. Lounge, Billiards. 5 min. Warrior Sq. Stn. 'Phone 689. Miss CLAYTON. St. Leonards-on-Sea-Drayton House ?°Se fr^^f llg'^New Lounge. Dining Rm.. &c. 40 Rms. Pass. Lift. Sep. Tables. En Pen- sion Terms & otherwise most Mod. — Stn. Warrior Sq. Telegrams & Telephone " Edelsten " 500 Hastings. Mrs. S. J. EDELSTEN. Qf InnnayHo {\r\ Qoa STAFFORD HOUSE. First-class Private 01. LcUllalUO-Ull-Opa. HoteL Eversfield Place. 'Phone 304. Qalfhlirn hv Qoa Vi fifAvi a Hotel, Family & Com. First-class; splen- OailUUill-Ujf-OCd KlllUlld did Situation. Sea View. Unlicensed. Close to Pier,Gardens, Baths, Golf Links. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Motoi Accommodation. Nat. Tel 53. I^Iiss FLEl'R\". Saltburn-by-the-Sea-Wlndsor ^S%ra^th^:Z'"i;iSl Well-appointed, Comfortable, and Moderate. Good and varied Cuisine. Miss E. L. METCALFE, Proprietress. Sandown, I.W.-Sandown Hotel.i?erS'i'i mS Room. Suites of Rooms facing Sea- French,German & Dutch Spoken. 'Phone 172. Under Management of Mr. & Mrs. F. MIRANDE. Sandown-The SANDRINGHAM HOTEL l';rf?i;„ch"£;Snd°" High-class Hotel on Esplanade. Spacious Dining Room, Lounge, & Drawing Room. Terraced Gdns. Badminton. Croquet. Tel. 166, Open all year. Reduced Winter Trms. Mr. & Mrs. THOM.AS, Proptrs. QanflnAxrn QfloriT'nwfl Pte. Hotel & Bdg. Estab.— Finest Position, facing OdilUUWll— OtJdglUVy Sea. Terms Mod. TeL 165- H. A. CHILD, Prop. 72 Sandwich — Sark — Scarborough — Seaton Sandwich The Bell Hotel. ^^^^^^^'EtfrcfS^^rS^t Food, well cooked. Private Sitting Rooms. Baths. Billiards. Garage. Heated Throughout. Illustrated Tariff from The MANAGER. Qn«1r niynoTif Unfol ^ Most beautifully situated Hotel in Island. OdlA JL/lAldlL nULOl. The Grounds comprise the Famous Dixcart Valley & Bay. Tennis, Bowls, Fishing, Bathing, & Boating. Only Hotel on Island with Acetylene Light. O. BRYANT, Proprietor. Channel Islands Sark Hotel Bel Air." t?ote^orrL'"?sa with a Sea View. Excellent Cuisine. Good Fishing. Croquet, Tennis. Terms Moderate. Apply MANAGER. SCARBOROUGH (South Cliff). If C#%ii+U|onfflo " Private Hotel. — A handsome Lounge and New OUULlllCt.llU9 Wing have recently been added. Billiards. Tels., "Southlands." 'Phone 159. Miss A. HOREY, Manageress. <( MAn+rftAlliAi* " First-class Boarding Establishment. — Sea lYIUnLpClllcr View. Facing Church Parade. Tels., " Peerless." Tel. No. 232. Miss K. TURNER, Manageress. The above Establishments are the property of South Clifi Boarding House Co., Ltd. Scarborough-Pavilion Hotel, ""Sso^rs Com.modious Hotel for Families and Gentlemen. Suites ot Rooms facing South. Ever^^ Modern Comfort & Luxury. Spacious Lounge. Passenger Lift. Terms from 10 '6 per day inclusive, or a la carte. Hotel Porters meet all trains Most couveaieul for Scarborough &GantonGolf Links, 13 minutes. R.A.C. A.A. GARAGE. Trams to all parts pass the door. 'Phone No. 70. R. E. LAUGHTON. Scarboro'-Crand Hotel.-,^!?,, gcn^id ^.lAt'-^^r'. Special attractions at Easter and Christmas. Full Inclusive Terms on apphcation. ___^ Scarborough-Cambridge Hotel Maaa';'e^.ent. Sheltered Position. Near Spa, Sands, Golf, Tennis. Lift. Garage. Moderate Tariff. 'Phone 222. Miss TAYLOR, Manageress. C/ioT)hAr)Aiirih Qwiff'o Private Hotel, North Cliff.— Facing Sea and OldlUUIUUgU OWlll Gardens. 70 Bedrooms. Every Comfort. Billiards. Moderate Terms. See Illustrated Advt. in Ward Lock's Yorkshire Guides. Tel. 462. J. B. SWIFT, Proprietor. Scarborough, Yorks-ST. MARY'S HOUSE BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. - Near the Sea. Overlooking North and South Bays. Smoke Room. Home Comforts. Moderate Teims, Special Terms for Winter IMonths. Apply PROPRIETRESS. CnorhAyAiidh— BLElfHEIM BDG. HOUSE, Queen's Parade.— Splendidly OlalUUlUUgli Situated. Full Sea View. Nr. GoU Links, Tenuis, & Cricket Grounds. Trams pass near for all parts Terms fr 5/- to 6/6 per day. Tariff on application to the Proprietress, R. M. HILL. Scarborough-" Zylpha " ^!:t°f. "^fflJ^'Un'Ira'iS and 10 minutes from Golf Links. Sea \'ie\v. Liberal c ateringi Reduced Tenns out of Season. .\ppl y P. SHAW. SEATON, Devon-WESTLEIGH ,?r.''ial?g1l""wS appointed, Comfortable, Telephuiie No. 25. Illustrated Tariff on application to the Proprietress, Mrs. WALLACE. Selsey — Sennen — Shanklin— Sheringham 73 Selsey, nr. Chlchester-The Marine Hotel. -SSs'L^tSI; Croquet, and Bowls. Near Golf Course. Chichester Station, thence Light Railway to Selsey. Garage Under New Management. Tel. 15 Selsey. Chichester MANAGERESS. Sennen (See Land's End, page 53). SHANKLIN, I.W. MADEIRA HOTEL A Good-class Family & Residential Hotel. Situated in Own Lovely Grounds, nr. Sea & Station. Old Established. Well-appointed & Com- fortable. Exceptionally Mod. Tariff. Mr. & Mrs. W. FARRANT. Shanklin, 1. W.-Dalsh' s Hotel ^^^tZ'^^^STitS^- Excellent Cuisine. Choicest Wines and Moderate Charges. Tels., " Daiih's. Shanklin." 'Phone 481 Shanklin. Address, MANAGER. Shanklin, I. W.-DnDcroft"^^fak.?s1RSsrp'o•pr^.'r;s^f• "Qhontlin TAWorc " I W Board Residence.— Splendid Central ijiidllJlllll lUWClO, 1. ll. Position. Every Mod. Convenience. An Ideal spot for a Holidav. Rubble & Grass Tennis Courts. BiUiards. Croquet. Bowls. Moderate Tariff. Mr. & Mrs. W. L. GOULD. Shanklin-Brunswick ^'cfvtlSoSf leT°°c^io^".'o Sk "an"5 Chine. Lovelv Grounds. Electric Light. Excellent Cuisine. Modera.e Ch.»r?es Applv PROPRIETRESS Shanklin, l.W.-Clifton House '""'fitoga^Strggie"""- Sheringham, Norfolk-" Normanton, "West Cliff ?„?S House.— Close Sea, Golf Links, and Station. Home Comforts. Terms Moderate. Mrs. JENMAN. Mrs. Beeton's Cookery Books. "THE BEST COOKERY BOOKS IN THE WORLD." The Westminster Gazette. — "As companions to puzzled young house- keepers, and as advisers and comforters to all who are responsible for the smooth working of the domestic wheels, Mrs. Beeton's Cookery Books are still unrivalled." MRS. BEETON'S HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. Half Leather, 7/6 net. Half Calf or Half Morocco, 12, 3 net. Full or Tree Calf, 18/- net. MRS. BEETON'S FAMILY COOKERY. Large Crown 8vo, strongly bound, Half Leather, 5/- net. MRS. BEETON'S EVERYDAY COOKERY. Large Crown 8vo, Cloth Gilt, 3/6 net. MRS. BEETON'S ALL ABOUT COOKERY. Large CrowTi 8vo, Cloth Gilt, 2/6 net. MRS. BEETON'S SHILLING COOKERY BOOK. Large Crown 8vo, Cloth, 1 /- net. Complete Illustrated List of Cookery Books Post Free on application. WARD. LOCK & CO., Ltd., London, E.G. 74 Sidmouth — Sonning - Southport SIDMOUTH (South Coast), DEVON. THE VICTORIA HOTEL SITUAIIU' ncir wt-';tern end cil J-;-,i>iana'i<\ near to Brine Baths, and conveniently to Golf Links. Commands magnificent Sea and Coast Views, Surrounded bv fine, well-sheltered Pleasure Gardens, Walks and Terraces. Perfect Sanitary Arrange- ments. Electric Liyht Throughout. Passenger Lift Specially designed for Invalids. Large and commodious Bedrooms and Private Sitting Rooms ; handsomely furnished Dining and Drawing Rooms ; spacious Smoking Loung'^. Reading, and Billiard Kooin>. Excellent Cuisine and well-selected Wines. Outside Iron Staircase Escapes. Motor Garage, with Inspection Pit. In consideration of subsidies paid by the Victoria Hotel, its guests have special privileges at the Sidmouth Brme Baths and at the Golf Links, 20 per cent, being allowed off their charges or subscription. Nat. Tel 11. For Terms, Particulars, Illustrated Guide, &c., anplv to JAMES MACGUIRE, MANAGER. Sonnlng-on-Thaffles-Whlte Hart Hotel, -FIRST-CLASS RESIDENTIAL. Southport Prince of Wales Hotel.-" ^c1iie';rfcufs"e°"i:;„,fo?,: Mod. Terms. Great Golf Centre Motorists' Hdqrs. (R.A.C., A..\. MU.,&c.) Free Garage. Pit. Tels.," Prince, Southport." 'Phone 15, SOUTHPORT. BIRKDALE PARK. SMEDLEY Hydropathic EstabHsliiiient. Adapted for Summep op Winter Residence. Outdoor Si Indoor Amusements. Baths. Extensive Grounds. For Prospectus apply MANAGERESSt Southport — Stratford-on-Avon — Strathpeffer 75 Southport-Queen' s Hotel, '^S.^fi„-sSpS 'SgSt Gardens. Fully Licensed. Sep. Tables. Five minutes from Golf Course. Garage, 'rhnnes 4 ^'v 433- Manager &: Soc. H. E. TAYLOR. Southport KENWURTHY'S HYDROPATHIC ESTApLISniVicNTi prospectus, manageress. Southport Hesketh Park Hydro Ltd.- Premier Hydro. Electric Lift. Tennis. Ciose Sea and Qolf Links. Illus. Tariff. 'Phone 422. Telegrams -" Rockley." Southport FOOD REFORM PENSION, YoadT Good Position, close Sea, Promenade, Hesketh Park. Five minutes from Municipal Golf Links. Misses GODBOLD. Southsea Miller's Solent Hotel, "S?ace"T'.5^;! rooms. Night Porter, 5 mins. from Portsmouth I own Station and Clarence Pier. Trams to Hotel. 'Phone 297. STRATFORD-ON-AVON. Opposite American Memorial Fountain. Most Central for Tourists. M ^ "^ \^ ^■^: dS •s>\ Near Station and all Places of Interest. Visitors will find every Comfort combined with Moderate Charges. Mrs a. M. STOKES, Proprietress. S&atf¥d-on4von-Payton~HouseKS''K°-(RemJv':3 from Gravbridge House). Most Central for Tourists. Close toallPlaces of Interest. Terms Moderate. Mrs. CASTLEDINE. Proprietress. Tbe HIGHEST SITUATION in STATHPEFFER. FOUR HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE SEA. BY ROYALTY. PATRONISED '^HE Hotel stands on its Own Grounds, and is secluded ^ -enough to secure to visitors the privacy and quiet of an ordinary countrv residence. Contains SPACIOl^S PUBLIC "ROOMS, ^ CONSERVATORIES, LOUNGE, CARD, and RECREATION ROOMS. Close to the GOLF COURSE. CROQUET and TENNIS COURTS in Hotel Grounds. Electric Light Throughout. Motor Garage, and all Accessories. Cars on Hire. A. WALLACE, Managing Director. 76 Svvanage- -Symonds Yat — Tenby Qwanada — "WpQthlirV " Rempstone Road. — High-class Boarding OHJaiiaftC IlCOLUUlJf, House. Near Station and Pier for Excursions. Open Views of Bay. Garden back and front. Misses RUSSELL. SyraoDds Yat-Royal Hotel 'a^i^:SoS'ii^r8.?mS Abbey. Ex. Motor Road to Hotel. Electric Light. Garage. Petrol. Fishing. Tennis. Boating. Caves. A. PITCHF'ORD, Cr own Lessee. TENBY. mOTED for its Sunshine, Extensive Stretches of Sands, and Safe Bathing. Fishing and Boating. Excursions by Land and Sea. Within easy Drives of several Noted Old Castles and other Objects of Interest, including St. David's Cathedral, by Motor. Golf Links (i8 holes), Lawn Tennis, &c. Open Air Entertainments. Hunting (Fox and Otter). Good Hotel and other accommodation. Through Trains — Paddington, Birmingham, Manchester, and Midlands. Connection with South of Ireland Daily, vi/i Fishguard and Rosslare Route, ^J hours sea passage. Official Guide Free on application to Town Clerk. Tenby, S. Wales-Royal Gate House Hotel. Family. Overlooking Bay Hotel 'Bus meets Trains. -First- elass Unrivalled Sands. Nr. Golf Links. Garage. Phone L?. Apply for tariff. Manageress. Tenby Royal Lion Hotel. Cliff Lawn Billiards. — Fust-class. Immediately overlooking the whole of the North Bay. Private Free Garage. 'Phone 4. Miss BEARD, Proprietress. Tenby, S. Wales Belgrave Hotel, Lflid-^due IS Every Com. Ideal Res. for Winter or Summer. Mod. & Inclu.Tms. .Apply for Tariff. 'Phone 3S. Personal Supervision of Proprietress. WINDSOR fid MONTHLY MAGAZINE Qd MONTHLY Torqnav 77 OSBORNE HOTEL, Facing Sea. South Aspect. Electric Litt to all b'loors. Electric Light. New Lounge, Billiard, and Writing Rooms Private Grounds extending to Meadloot Beach. Tennis, Croquet, Goit, Boating, aud Bathing. Telegrams— " OsBONOTEL." g, E. WESTAWAY. Telephone No. 183. Motors and Carriages. Garage with Pit. TORQUAY. ROSLIN HALL. PRIVATE HOTEL- iDEALLY bITUATED. EXCELLENT CUISINL. Inclusive Terms. Garage. Tennis and Croquet in Own Grounds. Within easy access to Golf Links. Telephone 133. Mrs. WM. GRESHAM. 78 Torquay GRANVILLE MANSIONS, TORQUAY. PRIVATE HOTEL. Overlooking Torbay. Grandest position for Sunshine, beautiful Sea & Land Views, bracing air. Excellent Cuisine. Terms : En Pension. Billiards, Bowls, Cro- quet. Sanitary Certifi- cate. 'Phone 633. Apply Mrs. AXIOE BOWER, Manageress. PL J** « ^^# < L, TORQUAY. NEPAUL First-class Boarding Establishment. SOUTH Aspect. Good Sea and Land views. Sheltered from East Winds. Bathroom. Billiard Room. Terms Moderate. Electric Light Throughout. Garage. Mr,. E. RICHAKDS, 'PhoiK- 445. Proprietress- SAVERNAKE BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT Falkland Road, TORQUAY. Facing South. Near Sea, Station, Town. Splendid Sea Views. Balcony. Heated in Winter. Every Comfort. Baths, Tennis, Croquet, and Bilhards. Liberal Table. 'Bus passes the door every hour for Golf Links. Phone 467. Terms fr. 30s. to 50s. Mrs. HAWKINS. TORQUAY. TOURAINE Private Hotel. JrtTIRST-CLASS. Fine Position, .11 with Splendid Sea \'ie\v. South Aspect. CentralforTown, Gardens, I ier, Pavilion, cS:c. Personal Supervision. Boarding Terms from £2 25. R:isses GUNN &MACLUMrHA. 'Phone 662. Tels.— " TouRAiNE, Torquay." Torquay 79 TORQUAY. "KISTOR" Private Hotel, Belgrave Road. Delightfully situated in Own Grounds and facing Tor Bay. I min. fr. Sea Front & Electric Cars. Central Heating & Elec- tric Lighting Throughout. Large Reception Rooms, Lounge, &c. Tennis, Croquet. Ex. Cuisine. 'Phone 325. Also Chillingworth Private Hotel, Belgrave Rd. Mrs. BAKER, Proprietress. \ v; n U/ . f I|!' 1 ^1 ' '*'•'' |"--K ,. : 1 TORQUAY. TORQUAY. BEMERTON PRIVATE HOTEL. ♦fCEAUTIFULLY situated ia its JO Own Grounds, facing due South. With beautiful Lawn. Within a few mins. of Sea & New South Devon Golf Links (i8 holes). Sep. Tables. Terms from £2 2s. Personal Supervision of the Pro- prietress, Mrs. K. PALMER. EDENHURST Torquay's Famous Guest House. Near Pavilion, Bathing Coves, Pier- Torbay Yacht Club, & Hec. Trams to Golf Links. Electric Light. Sep. Tables. Billiards. Terraced Lawn, facing S.W., overlooking Sea and Harbour, affordsoneofthe finest Panoramic Views in the AVorld. 'Phone 589. Tels., "Eden- hurst, Torquay." Under the Per- sonal Supervisi'-nof HOST & HOSTESS. TORQUAY, S. Devon. BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT Pleasantly situated 200 feet above Sea. Easy access. Every Comtort. Good Cuisine. Electric Light through- out. Baths, h. & c. Moderate and Inclusive Terms. Personal supervision. Miss G. E. CLAY, Proprietress. TnTtmiOTi Fir»Vhiir»n Babbacombe Road. — Apartments or Board lUl4Uaj— IVliAUUlll, Residence. Central. Sunny position, over looking Gardens. Close to Town and Sea Front, and Attendance. Perfect Sanitation. Good Cooking Mrs ROWE. Torquay-Strathmore Boarding Establishment, slrultiti overlooking Bay. Access to Tennis Courts and Sea Front. Every Comfort. Mod. & Inclu. Terms. E. W. SOUTHWOOD, Prop' tress. 8o Torquay — Truro — Ventnor — Warwick Torquay-" THE TOWERS," "^^a^nrnJ^us'-ioidl? required. South Aspect. Newly Furnished and Decorated Throughout. Private Walk to Sea Front. Tennis Court, Croquet and Bowling Green. On level. Near Station, Princess Gardens, and Pier. Mesdames CRUTE & RESTELL TAviniiQu QfATiDhall Apartments or Board Residence, Belgrave lOrqUay— OlOlltjlldll crescent— very sheltered. South Aspect. Close to Sea, Pier, Gardens. Tennis & Crocjuet Courts. Garage Near. Mrs. & Misses HOLE. Proprietresses. Torquay-Belfleld Private Hotel '^Lf^S? ^^Sf r„^ll Central. South Aspect. Balconies. Bath (h. & c). Personal Supervision. Tarift on application. TT)iiyiA DflH linn Unfol First-class Family. Est. 1671. Birthplace of imrO— UCll LlOIl nOlol.— Foote the Tragedian. Close to Cathedral. Principal Hotel in City. Ladies' Coffee Room. Drawing Room. Lock-up Garage. Iel. qq. Manageress. Miss CARLYON. ULLSWATER, PENRJTH. X>«^ X !'l°^r,I^'''^ai 1 '^?""^- ■ Xa^^ b- <. <•• X GARxVGE. Officially ap- Favoiirite Hotel of iVordsivorth. ^^S^ ♦. ♦ ^^ ^-^'X pointed Hotel for R. A.C.. Excellent centre for charming /^^ Atj^ ■:^^^\'*'^VX Telegrams: Coaches daily fr. \Viuder-X>* ^ **V ^/ " HUDSON. PatterdaU. mere & Ambleside. /X <^ ^ /^ Misses HUDSON, ProprietresBCB. Ventnor-RiYiera Boarding House.^Srorsl°F™;!,''un?^uS Position. Grand Sea Views. Well Recommended. South Aspect. Photo sent. From 30/- Winter Terms by arrangement. Yentnor, I.W,-Palraerston^CtL?r?^aTi?sSk-'E^Side: Terms from 35 /- to 42/- per week, 5/6 to 6/6 per day. Tariff sent on application to the Proprietor-^. Mr & Mrs. WELHAM. Vnn+riAT) T \\] TT'ofulriaT' Private Hotel.— Fine-t Position, facmg- VcIllllOI, 1. V¥. — lldldlgdl Sea. Sheltered from North East winds. Unequalled Cuisine. Separate Tables. Balcony Lounge facing Sea. Ideal Ho me. Tariff from 35/- inclusive MANAGER. VnnfnnTJ CAlon'f Private Hotel.— Finest Position. Uninterrupted VcllLllUl " OUICII L Sea View. Overlooking Pier and i minute from Sai Separate Tables. Terms from 5/6 to 6/6 per day, from 30'- lo 42'- per week Apply Miss METKLEH.AM. WARWICK. THE WOOLPACK. 01d=estabnshed First=class Family Hotel, CENTRALLY situated for Visiting Kenilworth, Shakes- peare's Country, &c., &c. Heated Throughout in V/inter. Electric Light. GARAGE LP. GOOD STABLING. CHARGES MODERATE. Officially appointed lor Iv.A.C. & ALU. 'Phone 178. Telegrams : " Woolpack, Warwick." Worurirt RvlocfArd Private Hotel— Central Position. High-class WaiWlCK AyieblOIU Restaurant. Motor Garage. Bath (h. & c). Smoke Rooms, &c. Moderate Charges. Mrs. F. ELLIOTT, Proprietress. Warwick — Weston — Weymouth — Whitby 8i -First-class. Close to Castle, „.. . . s^hurch. Most Central tor visiting Kenilworth, Stratford-ou-Avon, and all Places of Interest. Moderate Terms. Mrs. M. .A.. TURNER. Proprietress- larwick-Froebel House ^^t^;, Wrtminnh Thn J\ . ., . 87 St. Leonards .. 90 Cheltenham . 88 St. Margaret's Ba> ' .. 90 Chfton . . . 88 Sandown .. 89 Cromer . . . 88 Scarborough .. 90 Dovercourt . 88 Shanklin .. 8r Eastbourne . 88 Southampton . . .. 90 Enghsh Lakes . . . 88 Southsea .. 90 Exeter . . . 88 Swanage .. 90 Exmouth . 88 Teignmouth .. 90 Folkestone . . 88 Torquay 88, 90 Great Yarmouth .. 91 Ventnor. . .. 89 Guernsey . 88 Westgate .. 91 Harrogate . . 88 Weymouth .. 91 Heme Bay . 88 Whitby . . . . 91 Hythe . . . . 88 Whitstable • . 91 Ilfracombe . . 88 Windermere .. 88 Isle of Man . . 88 Worthing .. 91 Isle of Wight . . 88, 89 Yarmouth (Great) .. 91 Leamington .. 89 Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc. 87 Phone No. 22. ALDEBURGH- ON-SEA HOUSE AGENTS WOODCOCK & SON AchfnriH & District & the Coast of Kent.- I'nncipal House Furnishers and AbUiUlU House Agents. LEE & SON. Ashford- 'Phone 50. Rath— .Inlllf £f ^nn ^^'^ complete Furnishing Ddlll— uUliy OC OUII9 and Decoration, Removals and Warehousing. Bath Powell & Powell, Ltd., "^rgentlf"'" Illustrated Lists Free. Removals. Warehousing- Telegrams : "Powell's, Bath." Telephone i8. ise 66 Estate Agents. Removal Contractors & Auctioneers, 3, Burton Street. Bath. Telephone 280. Bexhill-on-Sea House mi^^SiSSiS, p^^^^ho,,?? & Estate Agents & Auctioneers for Bexhill and Neighbourhood. 3, Sea Road, Bexhill-on-Sea. Teh. & 'Phone, No. 410 Bexhill. Bath-FORTT, HATT & BILLINGS, "^"^il Bideford & Westward Ho!— R. DYMOND & SON Mill St., Bideford, Auc- tioneers & Valuers. House & Estate Agents. Carriage Proprietors RnPMflR — i^or Furnished or Unfurnished Houses DUUnUll and Lists of available Properties for Sale. Apply to THOS. TREGEAR, HOUSE AGENT, Aid wick Road. West Bognor. Bournemouth LANE & SMITH. SJ:„*i??J. Special Selections Furnished and Unfurnished Houses & Apartments to suit requirements free, with Lists and Map Established 1875. Bournemoutli (Soutlibourne). BOURNEMOUTH REBBECK BROS., ^^him Houses in the Town and District. Lists Free. Established 1845. Gervis Place, Bournemouth. Bournemouth JOLLIFFE, FLINT & CROSS. Illustrated Lists of best selection of Residences to be Let or Sold, with Map, Free. 1, ARCADE. BOURNEMOUTH. LAWRENCES, House Ag:ents, 46, Seabourne Road. Lists Free 'Phone 102 Sonthboume. Tels., "Lawren ces. Pokesdown '" Rah yn Dm ah f h —Principal House Agents.— COOPER & RIDDETT, DUmilClUUUlIl Bank Chambers, The Square. Tek-nhone No. 127. R tirhsa ri et-d ■ n^—^- ^ BENEFIELD, House & Estate Agent, **■ «-fa*"p^slfe Clifton Down Station). Estate and House Agents. Removals and Warehousing. Established 70 years. 'Phone 48=12. CROMER, SHERINCHAM AND DISTRICT. SIMONS &. Co,, House Agents.— freV T^AVf^rrAlirt /^ Uflrwirh EDWIM rice, List ol Furnished and UUVCIIUUU g Ilal Willi Unfurnished Houses and Guide free. Eastbourne^ Easter & Wright. S;ftnd EsSe Agents, Auctioneers, & Valuers. Opposite Station. Tel. No. 40. English Lakes -Win(lermere-™!?,^rH?ur ant eS Agents. Established 1874. List with Map of Lake District free on application. AH Information gratis. 'Phone 91. EXETER AND TORQUA¥,-w.__^brock^^& co.. House Furnishers, Removal Contractors, Undertakers, &c. Tel. 115 Exeter. Tel. 203 Torquay. EXniOUth— CREWS & SON^ ASintl^^iS^fio^eertVumTshcJf Removers, Undertakers,. Illus. List of Furnished & Unfurnished Houses & Properties Free. 4 & 6, Rolle Street. 'Phone 15. Folkestone-FLETCHER & CO. E?i iS^JZ Unfurnished. Printed Register, with Map, Free, Telegrams, "Bungalow." Telephone 517. GUERNSEY -Lovell & Co., Ltd., ZlSr' List of Furnished and Unfurnished Houses post free. Removal Contractors and House Furnishers, 11, Smith Street. Harrogate John Day & Sons ^S^'^SS'^ Princes Square. — Harrogate & District Edition of the "Homefinder." Free on applctn. Tels, " Days, Harrogate." 'Phone 36 Harrog ate. TJai'r'nd'lfD — Fortune & Thompson, HOUSE AGENTS. naiiU5aiP Usts Free. 'Phone 1022. Heme Bay- J. Huxtabie & Co. ^^,, S;;7S Estate Agents, for FURNISHED AND UNFURNISHED HOUSES. Station Road Estate Offices. 'Phone No. 6Y3. HYTHE AND DISTRICT, KENT. T. H. RYAN, Leading HOUSE AGENTS. IlfrflrnmhA N Dpunn'^- c. hutchings, f.a.i., illiaiUiiiUC, 11. UCVUU Leading House &. Estate Agent. Furnished Houses and .\partments secured. Illustrated Guide and Property Register on Application. Tvl. 17V Isle of Man Ramsey & District, fargher. Leading House Agent, humished & Unfurnished Houses to Lot & for Sale, al.-^o Select Private Apts. Tels., '' Fargher, Ramsev, Man." Isle of Wight (Shanklin.)Age°ntc. WALTER MORRIS, F.A.I. , Auction Mart. Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc. 89 Sandown, I.W., and District. House Agent. W. G. MITCHELL, 12, mGH STREET. List of Furnished Houses and Apartments promptly secured for intending visitors. Agents* Ctf«K«#l#%iafM ^^^^^"^ House and Estate A oanaown hiccs, mumby & co. Isle of Wight. Under Royal & Distinguished Patronage. Tel. 175. Printed De-;criptive Property Register on Aprlication! A. BULL & PORTER, Isle of Wight House Agents ,„, v™ ,,. s , ..i. , isandown, Freshwater, and Totland Bay. Lists sent Iree on receipt of requirements. LEAMINGTON SPA & WARWICKSHIRE FAYERMAN & CO., F.S.I., House &. EstatG Agents, 57, The Parade- — Printed Register Free. 'Phone 707. Tels., " Fayerman, Leamington." KENTISH TOW'N, CAMDEN TOWN, HIGHGATE, HOLLO WAY, TUFNELL PARK, HAVERSTOCK HILL, and Neighbourhood. Messrs. SALTER REX & Co., Surveyors aiiD Buctioneers, XaiiD, 1bou6e, an^ Estate Brents, Issue Free List of all available Properties for Sale or to be Let in N.W. and N. Districts. Rents Collected. Estates Managed. Mortgages Arranged. 311, KENTISH TOWN ROAD, LONDON, N.W., Tel. North 569. .\N'D 85, LONDON WALL, E.G., Tel. Wall 123T. TnHflnn — ^- ^- ^ ''• MOORE, Managers of House Property, Auctioneers, KUllUUll City Office Agents, conduct Ho\ise Property Sales at the Auction Mart, on Thursdays (held continuously for se\enty-nine years). Chief Offices — 7, Leadenhall Street, London, E.C. Malvern & District Malvern. Estab. 50 years. Tel. 160. J. G. LEAR & SON, F.A.I., House and Land Agents, Descriptive List free on application; Margate and HOUSE AGENTS: SCARLETT & GOLDSACK, Auctioneers, Surveyors, House <& Estate Agents and Accountants. - Free Printed Register of Isle of Thanet. 5, Cecil Sq.. Margate. 36, High St., Ramsgate. Thone 52 MARGATE. 'Phone 19 RAMSGATE. Ramsgate Printed Register Free. HOUSE AGENT. C. F. J. RICHARDSON, P.A.S.I., A.A.I., 17, THE AVENUE. 'JVIcphone 63. WINDSOR fid MONTHLY M Ar.AT:? NR fid MONTHL Y 90 Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc. Newquay, Corn waif-Bank Street Chambers- R, STEPHENS & Co., ^^^^^ Ltr^S: Telegrams: " Stephens, Auctioneers, Newquay." Overstrand, Nr. Cromer BECKETT, SON & GIBSON ^^^^^ AGENTS. Pitlochry Free Register. T elephone No. 25 Crom er. CENTRAL PERTHSHIRE HIGHLANDS.— List of Furnished Houses to Let for Suuuuer .Mouths, &c., Free bv Post, from C. C. STUART & SON. Telegrams — " Stuart, Pitlochry " St. Leonards-OD-Sea & Bexhill-on-Sea -JSJuist^HouSs' apply to JOHN BRAY, 13, South Colonnade, St. Leonards- on-Sea. Established 1864. St. Margaret's Bay, Nr. DoYer-'\^™r,s1a^°Age™s: Market Souare, Dover. Local Representative: Mr. A. E. DOUBLEDAY. St. Margarets-at-cliff. Scarborough, Filey, and Dlstrlct-^°^*s''o°MsV^?A':{^'"' Established 1S60. Surveyors, Estate Agents, and Auctioneers, no, Westborough & Aberdeen Walk, Scarborough. 'Phone 50y. Scarborough-ROWNTREES, "hou^'a^e^" Telegrams — ■" Rowntree, Scarboro." Telephone No. 7 (2 lines). QniifhamnfAn (including South Hants and the New Forest). — WALLER OUUUlallipLUll & KING, F.A.L, Auctioneers and Valuers, House, Laud, and Estate Agents, The Auction Mart, Above Bar, Southampton. (Business Established i8iq.) Tel. No. 230. QnilfhcOfl ^ District. — E. H. COOPER, 14, Osborne Rd., for Furnished & OmilUJCa Unfurnished Houses to be Let or Sold. Tel. No. 103. -E. L. HIXSON. — Oldest estabd. and leading House Agent. Op. Ry. Stn. Tel. 15. Tels.. "Apartments, Swanage " Swanage Teignmouth-ROBT, FROST & SON, ISoneert'^aEfa Valuers. Note Address — Corner of Station Road, facing Regent Street. Monthly Register Gratis and Post Free on application. TORnilAV-H O USE AGENTS, &c. lUUyUni Q^ R SMITH & SON, 9. STRAND. Illustrated List of Houses. Post Free. Telephone: 14. TOROUAYi Telegrams — " Reliable, Torquay." ^——^ HOUSE AGENTS. Auctioneers and Valuers, 8, Strand. Establi<;hed 1805. Illnstraied List on .Apniicati'in TrL 8. Torquay and District House Agents. J?rfgf. .t ??eS Supervision. Established 188 1. 'Phone 670. WINDSOR fid MONTHLY M A r, A T f M F fid MONTHLY Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc. 91 Westgate-on-Sea-HouseAgent-'^'^^^-Pe^^!^ WnymAiifh ^- W. FULLER, F.A.L, Auctioneer, Valuer, Hotel Broker, iKCjmUUUI and House Agent, 6i, St. Thomas Street. \A/l«i-hKw~Ho"se Agrents.— ROBERT GRAY & SOIVS. JtW ■■■UWJ.y Ulustrated List of l-umishcd Hnuses Free. Whltstable,-oD-Sea~'''^^ ^^"^"/ T?'RTEVEr& sor' ''"'°''' WORTHING (Noted for Sunshine), THE ESTATE AGENTS and Auctioneers for Worthing are NORMAN & SPENCER. nXROPERTY REGISTER, containing particulars of Properties to Let, iM Unfurnished, Furni-hed, and for Sale, in Worthing, We?t Worthing, Tarring, Broadwater, Sompting, Lancing, Goring and surrounding Districts, published periodically, and sent to ail parts of the United Kingdom on receipt of a letter, post card, wire, or 'phone call. Note the Address— 41 , CHAPEL ROAD, WORTHING. Telegrams — " Normans, \^'orthing." Tel. No. 244. (If Yfl('Tnnilfh~^°^ Furnished Houses, Boarding Houses, &c., S. R. Ul. ia'lllUUlll SMITH, Camperdown. Great Yarmouth. Tel. 384. 92 186,000 Miles a Second ! is the rate LIGHT travels through the air. Watson's "INTENSE" Prism Glass practically increases this speed 8 times, because an object i6 miles away viewed through this glass appears only 2 miies distant. THINK HOW MUCH THIS WILL ADD TO THE PLEASURE OF YOUR HOLIDAY. mm m0 It gives unusual Stereoscopic Effect. Microscopic Definition. As large a field of view as the eye can embrace. Central screw and eye-piece focussing. Damp- Proof, Dust- Proof, yet very Light, Price £6 I OSi Oda Complete in case with neck strap and sling, or add io% for 12 monthly pa} ments. Descriptive List gratis vn request. LIVE YOUR HOLIDAYS OVER AGAIN 1 by taking with you a WATSON *' DAINTY ' GAMERAi All metal always ready, cannot get out of order. Weighs only i| lbs. ]\Ieasures only — 5I X 4^ X 1 1' inches. The many care-free hours can be recalled by means of this companion, and the photos will brighten many a long evening. Price — Complete with Aplanat Lens, f/6. Compound Shutter, Double Extension, 3 Dark Slides. Antinous Release, £5 iSs. Od. W. WATSON & SONS, Ltd., 313, High Holborn, LONDON, W.C. Have for nearly 100 years been well known throughout the whole world as unsurpassed for their beauty of tone and lasting qualities. An Art Catalogue giving full particulars of these will be posted free on application, together with the name and address of the local agent in customer's district, where these Pianos can be inspected. BRIIMSMEAD PLAYER = PIANOS are the very latest and most up-to-date development. They contain every expression device, enabling the novice to correctly voice his own mood of the moment or the very soul of the composer. Special Terms for Cash or Extended Payment System. JOHN BRINSMEAD & SONS, Ltd., 18, 20 & 22, Wigmore Street, London. Makers to His najesty the King. u TO KEEP YOUR HOUSEHOLD LINEN WHITE AS THE DRIVEN SNOW AND FRESH AS THE FLOWERS OF SPRING, ALWAYS USE THE ROYAL PRIMROSE SOAP A FIRST FAVOURITE in Five Reigns. Foremost from 181 7 and still THE STANDARD SOAP for PURITY, QUALITY, AND VALUE. ^?^.^.k^- ^r'.i^^^ ^^f^ PRIMROSE ^^/^^ PRiWROSf W_}r^ As Used in the Royal Laundries for nearly Fifty Years. IN TABLETS FOR BATH and TOILET Recommended by the Medical Faculty. Of all GROCERS, OILMEN and STORES. MADE ONLY BY JOHN KNIGHT, Limited (l^ZTttnl) The Royal Primrose Soap Works, LONDON, E. Telegrams: " Barr, London. Telephone 410 Gerrard. BARR^SEEBS foR Flower ^ JdTCHENJGARDEN OF Finest Selected Strains XT^ested Growth ■J ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GOLD MEDAL AWARDED FOR EXCELLENCE, 1913. Also THREE GOLD MEDALS by the National Vegeteble Society, 1910, 1911 and 1912. BARR'S SEED GUIDE contains a Select List of the Best Seeds for the Vegetable Garden, and the most beautiful Annuals and PerennieJs for the Flower Garden and Greenhouse, with many fine Novelties of sterling merit. Sent free on application- BARR & SONS, 11, 12 & 13, King Street, Covent Garden, London. Nurseries : Taplow, Bucks. Visitor!, Invited. FRIE DRICHSHALL THE ORIGINAL and BEST APERIENT MINERAL WATER A safe remedy — MILD, SURE, AND PROMPT— for Constipation, Indigestion, Haemorrhoids, Gout, and all Stomach, Liver, and Bladder Complaints. Uijhly recommended by the most eminent Physicians, Pharm'tco'o lists, dc, as the Best and most Reliable Household Aperient. Can be obtained from all Chemists, Mineral Water Dealers, &c. Cash Price : Is. per small bottle ; Is. 3d. per large bottle. %iednchshall ^MIW^M» • T«t*-.«*t IV •*/ ■ 1 ■*• , 1536^5 RETURN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN LIBRARY TO— ^ 210 Wurster Hall 642-4818 LOAN PER OD 1 QUARTER 2 : 4 5 ( b ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS Return books ear y if they are not being used DUE AS STAMPED BELOW UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY FORM NO. DDl 3, 74m, 3/78 BERKELEY, CA 94720 UC BERKELEY LIBRARIES CD3Mi3fl7flM