' ^ III l(. *' 4 il^ ^'^ ^ d / / J i ^ /'■■ 
 
>ju 
 
 u 
 
 BANCROFT LIBRAFY 
 
AUSTRALIA; 
 
 WITH 
 
 NOTES BY THE WAY. 
 

 
 ^ 
 ^ 
 
 
 ^ 
 
AUSTEALIA: 
 
 WITH 
 
 NOTES BY THE WAY, 
 
 ON 
 
 EGYPT, CEYLON, BOMBAY 
 
 AND 
 
 THE HOLY LAND. 
 
 BY 
 
 FREDERICK J^JOBSON, D.D. i^^^-'^^** 
 
 SECOND EDITION, REVISED. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. 
 
 SOLD ALSO BY JOHN MASON. 
 
 1862. 
 

 LONDON : 
 
 PKINTED BY WILLIAM NICHOLS, 
 
 32, LONDON WALL. 
 
fiancroirt LibnHCy 
 
 TO 
 
 JOHN ROBINSON KAY, ESQ. 
 
 A PATRIOTIC PKOMOTER 
 OF 
 
 BRITISH COLONIZATION, 
 
 AND 
 A GENEROUS CONTRIBUTOR 
 
 TO 
 
 CHRISTIAN MISSIONS: 
 THIS VOLUME 
 
 IS 
 
 i^toat^Jr, 
 
 WITH 
 
 SENTIMENTS OF 
 
 ESTEEM AND FllIENDSHIP. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2007 with funding from 
 
 IVIicrosoft Corporation 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/australiawithnot01jobsrich 
 
PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 A LARGE impression of this volume having been dis- 
 posed of within a few weeks, the author has taken the 
 advantage of a new issue to revise his book, and to 
 make some additions to it. 
 
 The events which have recently transpired in the 
 Australasian Colonies, and which have been reported 
 since the first edition of this book was published, show 
 the rapid change and advancement of British dependencies 
 in that part of the globe. Not only has the *^ Native- 
 King '' disturbance in New Zealand been allayed by 
 the timely measures of its newly-appointed Governor, 
 Sir George Grey, but gold has been discovered in the 
 southern portion of that double island ; and the yield is 
 so abundant as to attract thousands to it, across the 
 surrounding seas. Since then, too, the results of the 
 Exploring Expeditions in Australia Proper have been 
 
VUl PREFACE. 
 
 made known, and the character of the interior of that 
 great " South Land '^ is ascertained. The " Land 
 Bills/' — the reconstruction of the Upper Houses of 
 Legislation, — and other important measures, have also 
 been considerably advanced. 
 
 Indeed, since this book was written, it may almost be 
 said that a new history belongs to that part of the 
 world. The writer has, therefore, in his revision, 
 availed himself of the most recent information, and has 
 incorporated it. Encouraged by the favour with which 
 the first issue of his volume has been received by the 
 public and the press, he sends forth this second edition 
 with the hope that it will not meet a less generous 
 reception. 
 
 47, CiTY-E-oAD, London. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 VOYAGE OUT. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Introduction— Voyage from Southampton to Gibraltar 
 —"The Rock"— The Town— The Market— The 
 Mediterranean— Malta — The Harbour of Alexandria 3 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Egypt — Alexandria — Railway, and View of the Country — 
 Land of Goshen — Cairo and its Wonders — The 
 Suburbs— Ancient Christian Remains — The Nilometer 
 — The Pasha's Naval Architect, and his Methodist 
 Recollections— The " Petrified Forest " and " Tombs 
 of the Caliphs "—Dervish Worship— Heliopolis— 
 Nile Boat and Voyage— The Pyramids and the 
 Sphynx— The Pasha's Palace and his Soldiers— Tombs 
 of the Mamelukes and of Mehemet Ali— Moslem 
 Worship— View of Cairo from the Citadel— Departure 
 — The Desert Railway — Suez, and Embarkation on 
 the Red Sea . . . . ,21 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Passage down the Red Sea— Aden— Monsoons— Ceylon- 
 Rich Scenery— Native Schools— Matura— Animal and 
 Vegetable Life— Buddhist Temples — Dress of the 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Singhalese — ^Dondra Head — Methodism in Ceylon — 
 Constellation of the "Cross" — Morotto — Preaching 
 to the Singhalese — Mr. Gogerly — Colombo — Kandy 
 — Buddhu's Foot and Tooth — Opening of a Wesleyan 
 Chapel for the Singhalese — Their Liberality and 
 Devotion — Farewell — Re-embarkation . .56 
 
 AUSTEALIA AND TASMANIA. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The Indian Ocean — Albatrosses — Southern Constellations 
 — Cape Leeuwin — King George's Sound — Aborigines 
 and Wild Flowers — Convicts — Voyage from Albany 
 to Port Phillip — Melbourne — Ballarat and "the Dig- 
 gings" — Geelong — Notes on Melbourne, Ballarat, 
 and Geelong, and on Methodism in the Colony of 
 Victoria . . . . . .91 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Tasmania — River Tamar — Launceston — Stories of the Old 
 Convicts — Last Night of the Year 1860 — Coach 
 Journey from Launceston on New Year's Day, 1861 
 — Beautiful Scenery — Reaping on New Year's Day — 
 Arrival at Horton College — Sunday-School Children 
 and New Year's Festival — Coach Journey renewed — 
 Tales of Sportsmen — New Face of Nature, Trees, 
 Birds, and Insects — Arrival at Hobart-Town — Notes 
 on Tasmania — Return to Launceston — Re-passage of 
 Bass' Straits, to Melbourne . . .119 
 
CONTENTS. XI 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Voyage from Melbourne to Sydney — Port Jackson — 
 Beception at Sydney — Opening of the Australasian 
 Conference — Paramatta — Eeturn to Sydney — Univer- 
 sity — Bible Society Meeting — Beautiful Suburbs and 
 Neighbourhood of Sydney — The last Native — Again 
 to Paramatta — Eichraond — Bullock-Drays and Loads 
 of Wool — Splendid View of Sydney and its Harbour 
 — Botany Bay — House of Legislation — Notes on 
 Sydney and New South Wales — The Australasian 
 Conference, and Methodism on the other side of the 
 Globe ...... 138 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Departure from Sydney — Eeturn to Melbourne — House of 
 Legislation — Meetings with Friends and Ministers — 
 Opening of New Church at CoUingwood — Passage to 
 South Australia — Extreme Heat on Arrival — Visit to 
 Kapunda in a Mining Eegion — Sabbath Services — 
 Plains and City of Adelaide — ^Farewell Breakfast — 
 Notes on South Australia — W^estern Australia — 
 General Views of the Island-Continent — The 
 Aborigines . . . . .180 
 
 EETURN HOME. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Voyage back from Australia to Ceylon — Visits to other 
 Buddhist Temples — Interior and Port revisited — 
 Farewell to Ceylon — Voyage to Bombay — Caves of 
 
Xn CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Elephanta — Ramble through Bombay — The Parsees — 
 Voyage from Bombay to Aden — Yoyage up the Eed 
 Sea — Scene of the Israelites' Passage — Arrival at Suez 
 — At Cairo — Loss of Luggage — Arrival at Alexandria 
 — Luggage not found . . . .213 
 
 CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 Departure for the Holy Land — Jaffa — Pilgrims returning 
 from the Holy City — Associations of " Joppa " — 
 Journey to Eamleh — Night at the Latin Convent — 
 Scriptural Sites in the Journey from Eamleh — Watch- 
 houses — First Sight of Jerusalem — Church of the 
 Holy Sepulchre — Sacred Places — Yiew from St. 
 Stephen's Gate — Yalley of Jehoshaphat — The Mount 
 of Olives — Zion Gate — The Jews' Quarter — Mount 
 Zion — Ancient and Modern City — Walls and Streets 
 — Bethany — Church of the Ascension — Sepulchre of 
 the Holy Yirgin — Other Sepulchres — Tophet — Acel- 
 dama — Jews' Wailing Place — Solomon's Bridge — 
 Second Yisit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre . 229 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 
 Journey to Bethlehem — Eachel's Tomb — Salesmen in Beth- 
 lehem — Church of the Nativity — Tombs and Shrines 
 — The Plains of Bethlehem — The Garden of Gethse- 
 mane — Ancient Olives — Pentecost, and a Sacrament 
 with Christian Jews, in Jerusalem — Eoom of the 
 Passover — Pool of Bethesda — Yiew from the Mount 
 of Olives to the Dead Sea and the Mountains of Moab 
 — Journey to Bethel — Gibeah — Mizpeh — Eamah — 
 The Mosque of Omar and the Tower of Hippicus — 
 Farewell to Jerusalem — Journey back to Jaffa — 
 Yoyage Home . . . . . 261 
 
art Jfirst. 
 
 VOYAGE OUT. 
 
 li 
 
VOYAGE OUT. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Introduction — Voyage from Southampton to Gibraltar — "The Kock" 
 — The Tovrn— The Market — ^The Mediterranean — Malta — The Harbour 
 of Alexandria. 
 
 There is a current observation among readers, that 
 books of travel are becoming vexatiously numerous; 
 and that people who pass over old or oft-trod journey- 
 ing routes should be content to see all the sights for 
 themselves, and say nothing of what they have seen, 
 except in conversation with their family and friends 
 at home. The only readable volumes of travel, now-a- 
 days, according to this opinion, are those of Du Chaillu, 
 who has so lately presented us with his marvellous 
 pictures of the gorilla, — of Livingstone, who devotes 
 a life to the real exploration of Africa, with a view 
 to its real civilization, — or of some other explorer 
 of regions hitherto unknown, of which it is highly 
 desirable we should have a true knowledge, such as 
 voyagers in search of the North- West Passage, or civi- 
 lian companions of the march into China. The present 
 
 B 2 
 
'4 , 
 
 4 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 writer respectfully demurs to tliese sweeping opinions. 
 He suggests^ for the reader's favourable consideration, 
 that, so long as a traveller along the very oldest high- 
 ways of the world takes up no unreasonable time in 
 relating his story, and does not swell it full of bor- 
 rowed details, but gives it in earnest, — because he was 
 in earnest in going to see what he has seen, — his book 
 must have such a degree of readable freshness as should 
 be sufficient to interest every reader who is not incur- 
 ably fastidious. Every eye has its own point of sight 
 from which it regards scenes and objects ; and it is by 
 comparing the different views of different travellers that 
 a true knowledge of foreign countries and their inhabit- 
 ants is to be gained. 
 
 The author of this volume has endeavoured to give, 
 in as brief and succinct a form as possible, his own views 
 of the countries through which he has passed, being 
 mindful of the exhortation by the Kajah of Travancore 
 to a Christian Missionary, in the sixteenth century : 
 " Friend, be not tedious : remember, life is short ! " His 
 aim has not been to write a large book ; but to repro- 
 duce, for the benefit of others, the impressions made 
 upon his mind by what he saw and learned. For this 
 purpose he has chosen what, perhaps, is not the most 
 inviting form of published writing, — that of the journal- 
 register ; — and has transcribed from his note-book the 
 fragmentary jottings made by the way. He hopes, 
 however, that advantage will be found in this form of 
 recital : it will give the best transcript of the impressions 
 as they were made on the mind. 
 
 It is the writer^s conviction that the British Colonies, 
 at our antipodes, are but very partially understood and 
 valued : he will be glad if his own brief and imperfect 
 
INTEODUCTION. 5 
 
 representations shall serve, in any degree, to render 
 them better known and appreciated. This volume might 
 have been swollen considerably, had he written at length 
 and to the full, on this great topic ; but he has striven 
 to confine his record to matters least familiar to English 
 readers. A like consideration of proportionate claim 
 has governed the selection of engraved illustration for 
 this volume. The author sketched his way in pictures, 
 as well as noted it in writing, — not only for practice in 
 Art, to which he had been attached from childhood, — 
 but also to have the forms and associations of what he 
 saw more distinctly and ineffaceably imprinted on his 
 mind. So it would not have been difficult to have 
 crowded the volume with sketches from his portfolio, 
 and to have made it a picture-book ; but he has, from 
 motives of economy, selected only one of his sketches 
 for publication. 
 
 The reader may as well be informed, at once, who the 
 author is, and what was the cause of his transit to the 
 other side of the globe. He is a Wesleyan Minister who, 
 by the appointment of his brethren, went forth as their 
 Representative to attend the Australasian Methodist 
 Conference which, in January, 1861, assembled at 
 Sydney. His wife, though of delicate frame, resolved to 
 accompany him, and to share in his adventures and 
 perils. His appointment was made, without previous 
 notice or intimation, far on in August, 1860. Within a 
 month afterwards, we sailed in one of the Peninsular and 
 Oriental Company's steam-ships ; and, after lingering in 
 Egypt and Ceylon, on our way, we reached Australia 
 before the end of the year. In the Australian Colonies, 
 I visited the principal cities and towns, and ministered 
 in them; and I mingled with all classes of colonial 
 
 B 3 
 
€) DEPARTURE. 
 
 society, finding among them a large number of indi- 
 viduals to whom I had previously administered the word 
 of life in different parts of the United Kingdom. AVe 
 returned home before the end of June, 1861 ; and the 
 following record, in journal form, will enable the reader 
 to retrace our passage from place to place ; to learn the 
 sources whence information was obtained, and the cir- 
 cumstances under which the impressions described were 
 produced : — while persons contemplating travel in the 
 same direction may ascertain what can be done within a 
 given period of time. 
 
 At noon of Thursday, September 20th, 1860, we 
 went on board the steamer, " Ripon,'' at Southampton, 
 accompanied by our friends, — Rev. John Scott, Rev. 
 Dr. and Mrs. Hoole, Rev. Dr. Osborn, Rev. William 
 Arthur, M.A., and J. Robinson Kay, Esq., of Summer- 
 seat, Lancashire. These friends remained with us till 
 the vessel started ; and then left us for a point of land 
 from whence the last sight of us could be had, and from 
 whence they might beckon us "farewell.^' We were 
 soon out of view, and were passing between the Isle of 
 Wight and the Hampshire coast. Seriousness, but not 
 sadness, possessed us ; for we were going on the service 
 of God, and knew that, under His protection, we were 
 as safe at sea as on land. 
 
 Our cabin was at the ''poop," opposite the cabin of 
 the Captain, and was a convenient one ; but it was con- 
 tinuously tremulous, through the perpetual movement 
 and rattling of the chain on the helm- wheel. The after- 
 deck was appropriated to the seats and promenade of 
 passengers. Forward, the ship was occupied by cabins 
 of officers, in the middle, — and by live-stock for pro- 
 
DEPARTURE. 7 
 
 vision, at the sides : at the bow, was the crew^s sleeping- 
 place. Round the saloon, were passengers^ cabins, — 
 first class, aft, — and second class, next the engine-room, 
 which, of course, was in the middle of the ship. Under 
 these, were holds for bullion and luggage. We had 
 about three hundred souls on board. Our ship was 
 well- provisioned ; the Captain and officers did all 
 they could to render the voyage pleasant; — entering 
 freely into the conversation, games, and pastimes of the 
 passengers. Being English men and women, v/e, of 
 course, availed ourselves, at intervals, of our privilege 
 of grumbling; but the accommodation was as good as 
 could be reasonably expected in a floating habitation ; 
 and the supplies were abundant. Passengers of both 
 sexes were not sparing of bitter-beer, any more than of 
 wine and spirits, especially they who were returning to 
 the thirsty plains of India ; and the daily scene at table in 
 the saloon was that of a brilliant assembly at a banquet. 
 
 We were awakened every morning at four by 
 the violent scrubbing of the decks ; at six the steward 
 brought us coffee or tea ; at nine the passengers met for 
 breakfast ; at twelve for lunch ; at four for dinner ; at 
 six for tea ; and at nine, as many as were disposed so to 
 indulge themselves, gathered at the tables for grog. 
 The deck and the saloon, especially towards evening, 
 became scenes of animation and amusement ; and much 
 ingenuity was exercised to pass away time until half-past 
 ten, when lights were extinguished for the night. 
 Such were the main features of our home on the deep ; 
 and such our daily routine of sea-life : in the midst of 
 it, there was considerable time left to the thoughtful 
 and serious for reading and reflection. 
 
 When we went into the saloon for dinner, on the day 
 
8 BAT OF BISCAY. 
 
 of departure, we had the first full view of our fellow- 
 passengers. Many of them were military officers, their 
 wives and daughters, — and others young civilians, — 
 going out to India, China, and the Mauritius. There 
 were also a few colonists returning, by the Overland 
 lloute, to Australia. We had witnessed most aflfecting 
 scenes between some of them and their friends, at part- 
 ing; and sorrowful afiection still lingered upon their 
 countenances, although two hours had passed away ; 
 but, by degrees, most of them became lively and 
 talkative. At half-past four, p.m., we sailed by the 
 "Needles,^' and the wind and the sea became rough, 
 so that many passengers took early to their berths; 
 but, though the vessel pitched considerably, we con- 
 tinued on deck till after nine. 
 
 Frid., Sep. 21. — No land in sight all day. Weather 
 boisterous ; so that the ship plunged and rolled continu- 
 ously, and we could do little but accommodate ourselves 
 to its motion. 
 
 Sat., Sep. 22. — Rough sea and wet weather; but 
 contrived to read Dr. Maury ^s " Physical Geography of 
 the Sea.^' Retired to bed at half-past ten ; and had a 
 pretty good night, considering that we were now in the 
 turbulent Bay of Biscay. 
 
 Sun., Sep. 23. — In the morning, read the Liturgy 
 and preached on Divine Providence to an attentive 
 audience assembled in the saloon. Being requested to 
 hold another religious service in the evening, I read 
 the Evening Prayers of the Church of England, and 
 explained the nature and necessity of Religion, from 
 the thirteenth chapter of the Eirst Epistle to the 
 Corinthians. Several thanked me for the day^s ser- 
 vices ; and some conversed with me on the subjects of 
 
THE ROCK. 9 
 
 discourse. I found we had witli us^ on board, both 
 men and women who feared God and worked righteous- 
 ness. The weather cleared up about noon ; and in the 
 evening we quitted the Bay of Biscay^ and saw on our 
 left the coast of Spain. 
 
 Mon., Sep. 24. — A fine day. Passed the entrance of 
 the Tagus, with Lisbon in the distance. "We could see 
 palace-like houses crowning the hill above the city, 
 with vessels crowding up the river. In the evening 
 our ship rode gallantly along ; the night was calm and 
 fine, and the moon threw her soft^ silvery light over 
 the sea. 
 
 Tues., Sep. 25. — A bright, cheerful morning : nearly 
 all the passengers were on deck for an early walk, 
 and then at breakfast by nine. The thermometer 
 rose to seventy. In the afternoon saw the Spanish 
 mountains, and then Cape St. Vincent. Later in the 
 evening, we were within sight of Cadiz, and passed, at a 
 distance, the little town of Palos, whence Columbus set 
 sail for the discovery of America. We then sailed by 
 Trafalgar Bay ; and soon, through the hazy, lingering 
 light of the setting sun, Gibraltar might be discerned in 
 the distance, with its bold, massive outline like a huge 
 lion couchant in the midst of the sea, keeping constant 
 guard for Great Britain at her main portal to the East. 
 A strong current from the west favoured us, and we 
 drove rapidly forward, that we might gain the bay 
 before gun-fire. The brilliant light of Europa Point 
 appeared amidst the increasing darkness. " The Rock 
 ahead ! '^ thundered the gruff, husky voice of the watch 
 at the bow. Our pace immediately slackened. "Stop 
 her ! ■'' cried our thin, wiry Captain, from the paddle- 
 box. The steam fumed and screeched ; the chain- cable 
 
10 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 rattled and shook the vessel ; and then fell for the night. 
 The officer of pratique appeared in a boat, came on 
 board, made his inquiries, and, at once, pronounced 
 egress and access free between the appointed hours of 
 sunrise and sunset. Our Missionary at Gibraltar (Rev. 
 R. Webster) was soon on board, and arranged to receive 
 us at the quay of the New Mole by seven the next 
 morning; after which, we and our fellow-passengers 
 retired to our berths for the night. 
 
 Wed., Sep. 26. — Kose early, to look at the grand 
 Rock. At seven, drove with Mr. Webster to the 
 Mission-House; and found attached "to it a spacious 
 chapel, with school and reading-rooms, in good con- 
 dition, but not in the most eligible situation. We 
 were glad to find that the Mission was prosperous, and 
 that on the Sabbath morning, when the Methodist 
 military attend, as many as five hundred persons assem- 
 ble in the chapel for Divine worship ; and that on the 
 Sabbath evening, when the military are absent, there 
 is a good congregation. After breakfast, we drove 
 through the town, viewing its narrow, thronged streets, 
 small shops, motley crowds of inhabitants and visitors, 
 and went round the North Point, from whence, on the 
 neutral ground, the best and fullest view of Gibraltar 
 can be obtained. As we returned, we saw the fish and 
 r ovision markets, public buildings and gardens, and as 
 much of the military defences and establishments as 
 our time would allow. 
 
 Gibraltar, as seen from the bay on the west, is 
 about two and a half miles long, and slopes rapidly 
 upwards from near the water to the ridge of the moun- 
 tain-rock, which is from 1,300 to 1,400 feet high. 
 
GIBRALTAR. 11 
 
 It is broader and bolder at the north end than at the 
 
 south; but throughout^ as viewed at a distance, it 
 
 appears hoary with age, and browned by the sun. The 
 
 pent-up town and line of military works skirt the base 
 
 of the rock along the western side ; and fortifications 
 
 and batteries bristle, tier above tier, from the long 
 
 bastion by the water's edge to the very summit ; while 
 
 innumerable holes from interior galleries and caverns, 
 
 with cannons' mouths pointing towards the sea, may be 
 
 seen at all heights, and in all directions. The eastern 
 
 side of the Rock is almost as perpendicular as a built-up 
 
 wall ; and appears like a huge stone-mountain cut 
 
 straight down through the middle, with no shore, or 
 
 ledge at the foot ; but falling precipitously, and plomb 
 
 at its side, from the narrow ridge at the top into the 
 
 transparent blue water below ; so that on the east side 
 
 the natural form of the fortress is its own defence. On 
 
 all others ides it is strongly fortified; and it is not 
 
 difficult to believe what is affirmed by military officers 
 
 in charge of it, that the Rock is impregnable. There 
 
 are extensive galleries in different directions, excavated 
 
 within by engineering skill ; and from all these, at 
 
 intervals of a few yards, port-holes are broken through 
 
 to the exterior, having artillery so directed within them 
 
 that, at any moment, an approaching enemy might be 
 
 fired upon and destroyed. The Rock appears dotted 
 
 all over with these military perforations; and at the 
 
 north end, where it is united to the Spanish continent 
 
 by a narrow isthmus of low sand, there is a sort of 
 
 tramway, all undermined, so that an army coming 
 
 towards it by land could at once be blown up, with 
 
 the road itself. The gates are equally prepared for 
 
 resistance and destruction; sentinels appear at every 
 
13 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 turn; and everywhere strict military vigilance seems to 
 be constantly maintained. Altogether, perhaps, Gib- 
 raltar is the strongest and most formidable fortress 
 possessed by any nation. Its situation, at the extreme 
 tongue-end of the Spanish coast, at the entrance of the 
 Mediterranean from the Atlantic, and almost within 
 gun-shot of the coast of Africa, is the most advantageous 
 possible. We do not wonder that Spaniards and Moors, 
 who have more than once witnessed its burning fury, 
 and felt its destructive power, should speak of it, and 
 of its projecting battery, by such ominous names as, — 
 '^The Mouth of Fire,'' and "The DeviPs Tongue.'' 
 Some of the gates are ancient, and have upon them 
 heraldic representations of renowned sovereigns, such as 
 the Emperor Charles V., and King Philip II.; but by 
 far the most interesting relic of former times is the 
 venerable Moorish Castle, standing about midway up the 
 ascent of the north-west shoulder of the Rock, on the 
 western side. It is nine hundred vears old ; and has 
 been successively in the possession of Saracens and 
 Christians, Africans and Europeans ; and is still noble 
 in decay. It is large, contains spacious apartments, and 
 a lofty tower rises above its square, massive quadrangle. 
 It is of deep yellow tinge, and bears upon its surface^ 
 on all sides, unmistakeable proofs of furious siege. 
 
 In the middle part of the western side of Gibraltar 
 is the Almeida, — supplying to the resident, and to the 
 visitor, as enchanting a place for promenade as can 
 possibly be found in Europe, or, perhaps, in the world. 
 It is an open space, extending from the sea-wall to 
 the base of the steeper part of the Rock, which has 
 here been levelled for the soldiers' parade-ground. It 
 is skirted with walks and ornamental gardens, with 
 
THE TOWN. 13 
 
 alcoves, and seats in sheltered and attractive nooks. The 
 grounds are planted and laid out with ingenious taste. 
 Aloes, cactuses, figs, olives, orange -trees, and all kinds 
 of semi-tropical fruits and odoriferous plants, cluster 
 together upon it in rich profusion ; while in one part are 
 the graves and monuments of Trafalgar heroes, and in 
 another stands the bust of Wellington, which, the 
 inscription records, was brought from Lepida. 
 
 The public buildings of Gibraltar are not large or 
 impressive, except the military establishments. The 
 Governor resides in an old Franciscan convent; the 
 cathedral is a miserable imitation of Moorish architec- 
 ture, mingled with Italian; and the Exchange, court- 
 house, &c., are without anv architectural merit what- 
 ever. The streets are narrow and irregular ; the houses 
 and shops low and small, and huddled together in all 
 imaginable shapes and colours at the foot of the arid 
 precipices of the Rock ; while ships of war, and groups 
 of small craft, lie under the sea-wall batteries in front. 
 The Protestant Bishopric has been restored to Gibraltar, 
 so it is now dignified with the name of ^' city ;^^ and the 
 diocese of the Bishop extends all round those parts 
 of the Mediterranean where there are any Protestant 
 Christians. The natives of Gibraltar are principally 
 Roman Catholics; and are spoken of contemptuously 
 by the other residents as " Rock Scorpions.'^ About 
 one half of the inhabitants are said to be natives, and 
 the other half is composed of Spaniards, Moors, Jews, 
 Italians, lonians, and British. There are some 5,000 
 British soldiers at Gibraltar, in ordinary times. 
 
 The scenes in the streets and markets, composed of 
 this mixed assemblage of inhabitants from various coun- 
 tries, are diversified and picturesque. Spanish peasants 
 
 c 
 
14 THE MARKET. 
 
 are seen, bringing provisions from the neighbouring 
 country, on their large, powerful mules, which are 
 showily arrayed in crimson and yellow trappings. 
 Each peasant looks as haughty as if he were a hidalgo ; 
 and his swarthy, stalwart frame is encased in velvet 
 breeches and a tight, embroidered jacket, and is sur- 
 mounted with a slouched black hat of conical shape. 
 In his broad crimson sash lurks the dangerous knife, 
 too readily employed as the arbiter of quarrel. In con- 
 trast to the excitable Spaniards, and with dignified 
 and imperturbable looks, stand their old hereditary 
 enemies, the Moors from the opposite coast of Bar- 
 bary; — their ebony faces overshadowed by huge white 
 turbans, their bodies robed in loose flowing dresses of 
 blue and crimson, and their feet resting in yellow 
 upturned pointed slippers. These are provision mer- 
 chants, who have brought over, in small craft, fowls, 
 eggs, meat, and fruit. Among these glide Jews, with 
 their long flowing beards and greasy clothing, ever look- 
 ing askance, as if all around were leagued in hostility 
 towards them. Then there are coarsely clad Spanish 
 women from the country, also with their provisions ; and 
 Spanish ladies, arrayed in graceful black lace mantillas, 
 and closely-drawn veils, — from under which they dart 
 piercing glances, — as we read, in the old stories j and 
 having in their hands the coquettish fan, which is made 
 to express in its position and wavings all the varied 
 feelings of the bearers. Among these are English 
 mammas and their rosy children, and nurses, and 
 English soldiers m bright scarlet uniforms ; while, above 
 the noise and jargon of the many tongues, may be 
 heard the military band, playing " God save the 
 Queen,'' or " Rule, Britannia." When we were there. 
 
THE MEDITERRANEAN. 15 
 
 the British volunteers for Garibaldi were in the streets, 
 on their way to join the patriot hero in Sicily ; and by 
 their gay coloured dresses, and swaggering demeanour, 
 they gave increased enlivenment and interest to the 
 scene. 
 
 The Rock itself is unproductive, but provisions from 
 the neighbouring coasts are abundant. There is a large 
 supply of fish daily; and we purchased in the fruit- 
 market four pounds of grapes, half a hundred walnuts, 
 and two pounds of apples, — all for fifteen pence ! Many 
 native women and children are employed in the manu- 
 facture of cigars. Poverty and crime, it is reported, are 
 not great at Gibraltar, though immorality is said to pre- 
 vail. Convicts may be seen at public works in blue 
 cotton clothing, attended in batches by a guard, who 
 bears a staff. The climate of Gibraltar is soft, balmy, 
 and exhilarating ; and yet we were informed that epide- 
 mics have, at different periods, swept off large numbers 
 of the inhabitants. Monkeys, which ahounded a few 
 years ago, are no longer tenants of the Kock. As our 
 steamer glided away from it, I sketched the back of the 
 fortress, in its deep precipitous fall, with the Spanish 
 scenery adjoining. 
 
 Thurs., Sep. 27. — Clear, bright day. The sierras, or 
 Spanish mountains, still seen on the left. Had an 
 interesting conversation with a Professor of Learning 
 from India, on Hinduism and the religious systems of 
 the East, — on the late Mutiny, the Oxford Perverts, the 
 writings of Macaulay, &c., &c. 
 
 Frid.y Sep. 28. — On deck at six. Sun's glare very 
 great. Passed Algiers. Huge fishes, sporting and 
 darting through the clear blue water. 
 
 c 2 
 
16 THE MEDITERRANEAN. 
 
 Sat., Sep. 29. — Weather still warmer. Morninj^ 
 very sultry ; and^ in the day^ a hot breeze from the 
 African coast. In the evening we passed, at a distance, 
 the Bay of Tunis, and the site of desolate Carthage. 
 
 Sun. J Sep. 30. — Rose at half-past six. Climate fine 
 and warm. Religious service in the sajoon at half-past 
 ten : good attendance. Preached on Abraham^s call to 
 go to a strange country ; and applied the subject to the 
 passengers on their voyage to distant lands. Several 
 wept at the remembrance of home, and the mention of 
 the uncertain future in a new land. The large saloon 
 was filled with passengers, officers, and crew in their 
 dark blue Sunday clothing; the "Union Jack^^ was 
 spread on the cushion, under the Bible and the Prayer- 
 Book; and it was affecting to hear the deep murmur of 
 earnest responses during the reading of the Liturgy. I 
 was impressed with the reflection that to me had been 
 practically committed the ministerial charge of so many 
 souls ! By two, p.m., we sighted Malta ; and, steaming 
 past the island of Gozo, we reached the harbour of 
 Valetta by four in the afternoon. 
 
 The scene from our vessel was as busv and as brilliant 
 as could well be conceived. We had passed, on our 
 left, the massive forts of Ricasoli and St. Elmo, and 
 had beheld, between these, the jagged shores and 
 indented fortifications on both sides of the " great 
 harbour ; " and now we were in the quarantine harbour, 
 with forts Mancel and Tigue on our right, and with the 
 clean, beautiful city of Valetta, the capital of the island, 
 immediately before us. The basin, all around, was 
 covered with life and activity ; ponderous tiers of bat- 
 teries lined the shores : and the statelv houses of the 
 city, as pure and unstained as if they had that day been 
 
Malta. 17 
 
 fresh excavated from Bath-stone quarries, rose, story 
 above story, on the elevated ground in front ; their 
 clear outlines and flat roofs cutting sharply against the 
 rich blue sky, while their bright forms and flowered 
 balconies were reflected in the liquid mirror beneath. 
 Crowds of picturesque boats, of all shapes and colours, 
 were putting ofi* from the quay, and crossing the harbour, 
 to convey passengers ashore ; while from antique canoe- 
 like skiff's, of native construction, tawny men and boys, 
 of half African mould, and all but naked, were plunging 
 into the deep bay, and exhibiting their extraordinary 
 feats of diving after silver coin thrown from our vessel. 
 
 We went on shore as soon as possible ; and climbing 
 the successive streets of " cursed stairs/' we pushed our 
 way through hosts of touters and beggars, who hung 
 most tenaciously upon our skirts, until we reached the 
 summit of the steep ascent; when, crossing the busy 
 Strada Reale, we found the chief object of attraction to 
 us, — the celebrated cathedral of St. John. The exterior 
 of the church greatly disappointed us. It has a com- 
 mon flat facade, with two plain turrets containing the 
 famous bells of Rhodes ; and is built closely against, on 
 both sides. But on pushing aside the heavy curtain 
 which screens the entrance-portal, a scene of gorgeous- 
 ness and solemn grandeur presents itself. The church 
 is of Italian style, large and spacious, with a high vault 
 in the middle, and with arched aisles at the sides. At 
 the further end is the high altar, on an elevated platform, 
 and with its stately seats for ecclesiastical dignitaries. 
 All this is covered and enriched with marbles, historic 
 paintings, and tapestries, and with bronze figures of 
 sombre hue, while the pavement of the whole church is 
 one vast escutcheon, composed of monumental marble 
 
 c 3 
 
18 MALTA. 
 
 slabs for the cliivalrous Knights of St. John, richly inlaid 
 with heraldic devices in mosaic, and with inscriptions, 
 in black, red, and deep yellow colours. Upon the floor 
 were seen kneeling Maltese men and women, — the latter 
 appearing half nun-like in their black mantilla cover- 
 ings. Suspended from the walls are the trophies and 
 insignia of celebrated conquests, and the rusty keys of 
 memorable cities, such as E/hodes, Jerusalem, and Acre. 
 The solemn chant of the priests, accompanied by the 
 deep tones of the organ, which roll and echo through 
 the lofty vaults and remote recesses of the church, — 
 everywhere redolent with perfumed incense, — give a 
 sort of dreamy enchantment to the scene ; which in its 
 sombre hues, after the glaring sunlight without, and the 
 clamorous sounds and offensive stenches encountered 
 in the way, makes the visit to St. John^s a treat inde- 
 scribably pleasurable. We worshipped silently among 
 the congregation, after our own Protestant manner, — 
 praying for the Roman Catholic devotees around us ; 
 and, as it was the Lord^s dav, we left the Grand Palace 
 of the Knights, and the other sights of the city, to be 
 viewed on our return. With grief we saw not a few of 
 our fellow-passengers openly casting off" religious re- 
 straint, and publicly trafficking in lace and filagree-work 
 of gold and silver. Their conduct could not fail to be 
 injurious, not only to themselves, but also to the credit 
 .of Protestant Christianity. On returning to our ship, 
 the descending streets, thronged with Maltese men, 
 women, and priests, — Arab merchants in their long 
 flowing garments, — red-coated British soldiers, and 
 rollicking English Jack-Tars, — presented a stream of 
 picturesque variety. The shops were open as on ordi- 
 nary days of the week, exhibiting in full view their 
 
THE MEDITERRANEAN. 19 
 
 various articles for sale ; and through public purchases 
 and pleasure-taking, the city, throughout, was utterly 
 devoid of the serenity belonging to the day of the Lord. 
 At ten, P.M., we heaved anchor, and steamed out of the 
 harbour, nearly leaving behind some young military 
 officers, who had been carousing at the cafes, and who 
 had to make their way to us, after we had started, by 
 hard rowing from the shore. Darkness was thickening 
 upon us as we left ; but we could discern, as we passed, 
 frowning upon us in gloomy grandeur, the massive 
 granite fort of St. Elmo, in which lies the body of the 
 gallant Sir Ealph Abercrombie. 
 
 Mon.y Oct. 1. — Rose early. Weather close and 
 oppressive ; but a refreshing breeze sprung up in the 
 day. Passed several vessels in full sail, and spoke with 
 some, all being anxious to learn more of the events of 
 Italy ; but they could not tell us more than that Gari- 
 baldi had gained some advantage over the Pope^s troops. 
 
 Tues., Oct. 2. — Had a refreshing bath in sea-water, 
 some hours before breakfast. During the day an Arab 
 pilot came on board to take charge of our ship, and 
 conduct her between outlying sunken rocks into the 
 harbour of Alexandria. Towards evening the ship^s 
 fire-bell rang, to prove that all the crew were ready for 
 an emergency. This alarmed some of the passengers 
 who had been left unapprised of the object. 
 
 Wed., Oct. 8. — Passengers early on deck, and busy 
 with luggage, to be ready for landing. All hilarity 
 among them, being the last day and night to be spent 
 on board before reaching Egypt. The sun set gloriously 
 in the evening, flooding the whole scene with vermilion 
 and gold, while opposite rose the moon as from a furnace 
 of molten metal. 
 
20 THE HARBOUR OF ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 Thurs.j Oct. 4. — By half-past eight, a.m., Alexandria 
 in sight. A long, horizontal line of sand-banks — the 
 Pasha's palace and lighthouse on the left — innumerable 
 "windmills, having half sails, and dumpy forms, on the 
 right. Arab pilot, now in full charge of the steamer, 
 seen with glass in hand on the bridge in midships, 
 excited and highly pretentious. On drawing near to 
 Alexandria, several barge-like boats approached us on 
 both sides, swarming with Arabs, Egyptians, and 
 Nubians, dressed in all sorts of clothing, and some with 
 scarcely any clothing at all. Clambering up the sides 
 of our vessel, they crowded the deck, but did not seem 
 at all eager for exertion, until one of the officers roused 
 them to it by masterful words and attitudes. The 
 hurry and confusion which followed can scarcely be 
 imagined. Luggage was tumbled over the ship in all 
 directions; and woe betide the portmanteau that was 
 not strong ! The Arabs shouted, screamed, and gesti- 
 culated in the most frantic manner. We stood by our 
 luggage until it was removed to the tender on which 
 passengers were going ashore. The harbour was 
 crowded with ships of various nations; and among 
 them were several French frigates, which had recently 
 brought soldiers to suppress the insurrection and massa- 
 cres in Syria. On landing we were beset by all kinds 
 of eager aspirants for leading and conveying us into the 
 city ; but, selecting the most honest-looking dragoman 
 (as we thought) from among the crowd, we made our 
 way with him to the Orient Hotel, paying some five 
 shillings expenses from leaving the steamer to settlement 
 in our inn. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 Egypt — Alexandria — Railway, and View of the Country — Land of Goshen — 
 Cairo and its Wonders — -The Suburbs — Ancient Christian Remains — 
 The Niloraeter — The Pasha's Naval Architect, and his Methodist 
 Recollections— The "Petrified Forest" and "Tombs of the Caliphs" 
 — Dervish Worship — Heliopolis — Nile Boat and Voyage — The Pyramids 
 and the Sphynx — The Pasha's Palace and his Soldiers — Tombs of the 
 Mamelukes and of Mehemet Ali — Moslem Worship — View of Cairo 
 from the Citadel — Departure — The Desert Railway — Suez, and 
 Embarkation on the Red Sea. 
 
 Our drive through the narrow, irregular streets of 
 Alexandria was an introduction to Eastern life. It 
 impressed us with a feeling of ancientness, as well as of 
 novelty. Our first sight of camels and veiled women 
 seemed a realization of Scripture scenes and patriarchal 
 times. But soon, the vision of merchants lounging on 
 cushions, and smoking long pipes, — half-naked and 
 embrowned water-carriers, with their swollen goat-skin 
 burthens, — women, glancing eagerly out of the large 
 wrappers with which they were enveloped to the eyes, 
 and attended by glossy negroes in loose white dresses 
 and crimson turbans, — ebony grooms in petticoat trou- 
 sers, leading high-mettled Arabian horses with richly 
 embroidered saddles, — sleek asses, with carpet saddles 
 and mercurial boy-drivers, — and strings of lofty camels, 
 with their rolling eyes and slow, swaying motion of their 
 large heads and long necks, — transported us to the 
 enchanting and bizarre associations of "The Arabian 
 
22 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 Nights," and awoke within us the memory of young 
 dreams full of the pageantry of Oriental romance. 
 
 In the oblong square before our hotel the elite of the 
 inhabitants out of a population of 80^000 — Turks, Alba- 
 nians, Syrians, Greeks, Jews, Copts, Arabs, Nubians, 
 Armenians, and Franks — promenaded, in stately and 
 motley show, from four to six in the evening. We 
 found the famed Alexandria, in which royal magnificence 
 and academic learning once out-rivalled Rome itself, to 
 have " bequeathed to the modern city only its ruins and 
 its name." The old foundations cannot even be traced, 
 the present city having shrunk within the ancient girdle 
 considerably. Fragments of fallen columns lie widely 
 scattered, and mounds remain half hidden by drifting 
 sand ; but there is no record of the buildings to which 
 they formerly belonged. We drove, of course, to the 
 obelisk named " Cleopatra's Needle," which was brought 
 by one of the Caesars from Heliopolis to adorn a temple, 
 though tradition falsely ascribes the removal to Egypt's 
 sumptuous Queen. It is covered with hieroglyphics, 
 familiar in their forms to English eyes, by miniature 
 models of this very obelisk, and is some seventy feet 
 high. Its prostrate fellow column, given to England by 
 Mehemet Ali, remains, as every one knows, still on 
 Egyptian soil. We next visited " Pompey's Pillar," a 
 well-proportioned column nearly one hundred feet high. 
 These gigantic fragments of polished syenite are nearly 
 all that remains of the architectural splendour which 
 distinguished the capital of the Ptolemies. They stand, 
 the one at the northern, the other at the southern 
 extremity of the modern city, as if in monumental 
 mockery of fallen greatness. We visited the Pasha's 
 palace, with its half-European, half-Turkish furniture 
 
RAILWAY^ AND VIEW OF THE COUNTRY. 23 
 
 and adornment ; then walked through the long bazaars ; 
 and, after a solemn stroll in the evening through 
 unlighted streets, we retired to rest, but had little 
 sleep, for the constant howling and yelping of quarrel- 
 some dogs, and incessant calls of watchmen around 
 the square. 
 
 Frid.j Oct. 5. — Breakfasted at half-past seven, and 
 left for the train to Cairo at nine. The railway station, 
 at the south-east extremity of Alexandria, is a large 
 structure, with its ticket-offices and waiting-rooms, in 
 Continental rather than English style. The carriages 
 are English, bearing the name-plates of " Wright and 
 Son, Birmingham ; '' but we felt it odd to have the 
 carriage door opened for us, and to be attended on our 
 journey, by railway guards in turbans. An attendant 
 very courteously deposited for us, in a net overhead 
 within our carriage, an earthen bottle fresh filled with 
 water from the Nile, and adjusted the Venetian windows 
 so as to screen us, as far as could be, from the drifting 
 sand and sun^s blazing heat, — evidently relying on our 
 English generosity for some remuneration. Our course 
 lay through the cultivated land of the Delta, and, 
 having passed by the villa-like houses of the suburbs, 
 and burial places crowded with Egyptian tombs and 
 graves, we were soon among fields, where natives were 
 at work, making sluices, and raising water by their 
 bucket-wheels, to irrigate the land. Several villages, 
 chiefly composed of dark mud dwellings, lay by the 
 railroad, with here and there a stone mosque and 
 minaret ; and then we swept by clumps of trees, and 
 now and then a picturesque and solitary palm. 
 
 We felt at once that we had reached the Egypt of our 
 dreams. The palm tree, — that familiar type of Eastern 
 
24 RAILWAY, AND VIEW OP THE COUNTRY. 
 
 scenery, — tlie foliage of Scripture illustrations, which 
 were so dear among the pictures of our childhood, asso- 
 ciated with the figures of Patriarchs, Prophets, Apostles, 
 and Christ, — was before us at every stage. We thought 
 of Joseph and his brethren and Pharaoh, of Jacob and 
 Moses, and of the Virgin and her persecuted Infant. It 
 is true that on the way we saw much to disturb the 
 pleasantness of our reveries. Upon the sandy embank- 
 ments we saw strings of camels and asses, attended by 
 men, women, and boys, who were generally very meanly 
 and scantily clad, and who were often filthy in the 
 extreme. Now and then, astride a nimble-footed donkey, 
 might be seen a fat, shaky Turk, clothed in rich, flowing 
 robes, and his red-slippered feet dangling within six 
 inches of the ground. At intervals we passed an 
 Egyptian family of the better class travelling with the 
 Eastern ass, most strikingly after the style and manner 
 in which Italian painters represent Joseph, Mary, and 
 the young child Jesus in the flight into Egypt. But, 
 in most cases, the low, degraded appearance of the 
 groups of natives which we passed could scarcely be 
 exceeded by that of the savage inhabitants of the 
 interior. Neither men nor women had sufficient 
 covering for decency; while boys and girls, up to ten 
 or twelve years of age, were entirely nude, and were 
 often clotted and bedaubed with sand and mud, like so 
 many mere wild animals. " Surely,^^ we said, as we 
 dashed along in the train over the level land, past group 
 after group of dirty, shameless men and women, " the 
 Scripture prophecy concerning this country is literally 
 fulfilled, and Egypt has become the basest of kingdoms ; 
 for in it cleanliness has scarcely any existence, and 
 nakedness no shame ! ^' 
 
CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 25 
 
 Parts of the country^ with its overflowings of water, 
 resembled the fens of Lincolnshire ; the style of plough- 
 ing and labour was of the most primitive kind, and we 
 saw, in our way, many striking illustrations of Scripture 
 in the manners and customs of the people. The hot 
 climate seemed to have tamed and subdued both beasts 
 and men. Buffaloes were resting in the water, with 
 their nostrils out only ; the cattle employed in husbandry 
 and as beasts of burthen went lazily along ; and both 
 labourers and travellers, whom we passed, moved 
 leisurely. Half way to Cairo we stayed for refreshment, 
 at the station provided by the Pasha ; and partook of a 
 semi-English repast. Soon afterwards, we crossed the 
 Nile, and were in the Land of Goshen, where verdure 
 and trees were abundant. 
 
 By half-past three, p.m., we had our first sight of the 
 Pyramids, with their long familiar forms mellowed to 
 the view by a rosy hue which rested upon them in the 
 distance. The sky was a soft purple rather than a 
 bright blue, and it bathed all things in its warm, sombre 
 light, and harmonized them delightfully. The country, 
 as we advanced, became increasingly green and luxuriant, 
 near to us ; but beyond we could see the hot, steaming 
 desert, quivering in parts with reflected light. The 
 mosques and minarets of Cairo appeared before us, with 
 the Mokattam mountain range behind. At half-past 
 four in the afternoon we reached the famous Egyptian 
 capital of Saracenic times — the most wondrous city in 
 the dear old stories of the *' Thousand and One Nights ^^ 
 — and drove at once to Shepherd^s Hotel, where, from 
 notice previously sent by Indian passengers who pre- 
 ceded us, we found a good double-bedded room awaiting 
 our arrival. After dinner and a short walk in the suburbs, 
 
26 CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 
 
 we retired to rest ; but througli the tattered state of the 
 bed curtains, we were preyed upon by musquitoes until 
 covered all over with the effects of their bites. It 
 seemed that night as if all the tormenting insects of 
 Cairo had been summoned to a luscious feast upon 
 English flesh ; for they came through the open windows, 
 and preyed upon me to the full. 
 
 Sat. J Oct. 6. — After breakfast went to the door of 
 the hotel to engage donkeys for the day, and found a 
 swarm of boys with asses. On sight of me, the lads 
 all vociferously solicited engagement, in the loudest 
 and most amusing manner. "You want good donkey ?^^ 
 one inquired. Another shouted, " Mine the best 
 donkey ! " and another, " Mine a stallion donkey ! " 
 Then the names of their several steeds would be 
 sounded out loudly, and all together. One exclaim- 
 ing, " Have my Snooks ! " another, " Have Jennj?" 
 Lind ! " and another, " Have Garibaldi ! " These 
 youths are sharp, eager aspirants for employment, and 
 have picked up as much English as enables them to 
 be guides to travellers : they are dragomen in embryo. 
 Their complexions are a light reddish bronze ; they 
 are dressed mostly in dark blue blouses, or tunics; 
 have bare legs, feet, and arms, and wear upon their 
 heads either a red cap with a black tassel, or a gay- 
 coloured handkerchief picturesquely folded around the 
 temples. The donkeys are of various sizes. Some 
 are large white Meccas, nearly as high as our mules ; 
 but the greater number are smaller than European 
 asses, and are darker in colour. Nearly all of them 
 are arrayed in red saddles with high pommels, and 
 they are owned by proprietors who employ the boys 
 for small daily wages to hire them to travellers, at six- 
 
CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 27 
 
 pence per hour^ or one and sixpence for the day. I 
 selected from the fair of donkeys a large white Mecca 
 one for myself, and a darker, smaller one for my wife. 
 Mounted on these, we set forth on a ride into the city, 
 our exultant drivers walking behind, and waving their 
 sticks in triumph. Sudden strokes on the haunches of 
 our beasts startled both them and us, and we wen 
 trotting on at a smart ambling pace, by what would be 
 called the boulevard of a continental city, until we 
 reached the Frank part of the new European Bazaar. 
 This was thronged with persons of all ranks and cos- 
 tumes, who were threading their way in carriages, on 
 horseback, on asses, or on foot, as best they could. We 
 had to be careful on our saddles ; for if our donkeys saw 
 an opening, they suddenly started for it ; and, if we had 
 not been upon our guard, they might soon have slipped 
 us off behind, and let us lie, amidst the laughing crowd, 
 on the ground. 
 
 Keeping our seats, we pursued our way through a 
 labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes to the Turkish 
 bazaar, attended by our donkey- drivers, who, in addition 
 to the sharp strokes inflicted upon our steeds behind, 
 loudly vociferated to all around to make way for us, as 
 if we were the most important personages in Cairo ! 
 The scene, as we went along, was a perfect masquerade. 
 It was an ever-shifting drama of Eastern life, acted 
 immediately before you, — being of all forms, and of all 
 colours. There were ladies in dark and white veils ; 
 some riding like puffed up balloons, on asses led by fat, 
 shining eunuchs ; and others on foot, with their respec- 
 tive guardians. They were clothed in a hood-like man- 
 tle of black, yellow, or white, and no part of their 
 person -Cras seen but their dark eyes, rimmed with khol, 
 
 D 2 
 
28 CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 
 
 gleaming lustrously out from two holes in the front of 
 their head-dress, and which head-dress is divided in the 
 middle, from the forehead to the chin, by a string of 
 yellow ornaments like coins. Under their bulged 
 external covering they wear loose trousers, — yellow, 
 pink, or white, — and on their feet small turned-up 
 shoes with sharp points. The women ride astride on 
 the asses, and the stout, black eunuchs who lead the 
 asses are showily, and in some instances sumptuously, 
 arrayed in long blue robes. They strut along by the 
 side of their charge with conscious importance. The 
 females of the lower classes were seen moving among 
 the crowd ; some bearing pitchers of antique form upon 
 their heads, remarkably upright in their bearing, and 
 their scanty dresses falling down upon their bare legs, 
 revealing too fully the outline and symmetry of their 
 forms. These were loosely clad in dark blue cotton 
 shirt-like dresses ; and their faces were only partly 
 covered. Others were more scantily clothed, and had 
 their naked infants — with sore eyes covered with prey- 
 ing insects — astride on their shoulders, or on their hips. 
 Among these were old women, who, under the fierce 
 heat of the Egyptian sun, had been burnt and dried 
 until their skins had become shrivelled and hippopota- 
 mus-like, and they were truly hideous. Strings of calm, 
 dignified camels, laden heavily on either side with 
 panniers, strode dreamily along ; and on their tawny ^ 
 scabbed humps you would see dark Nubians or sallow 
 Egyptians, nodding at the tread of the beasts that bare 
 them. Then came half-naked water-carriers, with 
 blown-out goat-skins, dripping from the Nile, holding 
 in the one hand the mouth of the skin, and in the other 
 a can into which to pour forth the water for sale. Then 
 
CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 29 
 
 you would see Franks of different European nations, and 
 here and there a portly well-dressed Englishman on a 
 donkey, and wearing a wide-awake hat turbaned with a 
 roll of white muslin about the crown, to avert from his 
 head the rays of the sun. He looks round and speaks 
 as if master of the drama, and as if the whole scene had 
 been made up purposely for him. On each side of the 
 narrow streets are small cupboard-like shops, stored with 
 shawls and gay articles ; and on the tailor-like boards in 
 front — some one or two feet from the ground — sit cross- 
 legged, calm, imperturbable Turks, in rich turbans and 
 long, flowing robes, smoking their long pipes, looking 
 exactly as if they were sitting for portraits, and as if 
 they had been sitting there undisturbed for half a cen- 
 tury ; for they have no movement whatever except in 
 their eyelids. The streets are narrow enough below, 
 but they decrease in breadth above by storied projec- 
 tions, — after the manner of the old houses which remain 
 in Coventry, Tewkesbury, Shrewsbury, and such of our 
 towns as were famous in the Wars of the Roses, — until 
 they all but meet overhead, and only a narrow zig-zag 
 stripe of blue sky at top is discernible. As you proceed 
 you will see masons busily building in turbans ; with 
 carpenters and other artisans, all petticoated and tur- 
 baned. Then you come upon the disgusting sight of 
 Dervishes, all naked except at the loins, with matted 
 hair and filthy skin, asking alms, with their bag ; but 
 they give way for the four-wheeled carriage with its 
 gaudy trappings, containing a Turkish lady of rank, and 
 preceded by a dark runner, dressed in crimson and blue, 
 bearing his silver-tipped wand, and warning the crowd 
 of the approach of his window-screened mistress. On 
 the box with the coachman, or slung, behind, are the 
 
 D 3 
 
30 CAIRO AND ITS WONDEKS. 
 
 guardian eunuclis, with faces like polished ebony, fat 
 and plump, and richly clothed. Scattered among these, 
 in greasy dresses, are sordid, sharp-featured, sly -looking 
 Jews, from various nations ; jaunty, rakish Greeks, with 
 finely moulded forms and picturesque costumes ; and 
 dark, turbaned Copts, claiming to be descendants of the 
 ancient Egyptians, and wearing crosses on their wrists 
 and other parts of their bodies. Some of them are 
 shouting "backsheesh!'^ at the top of their voices : 
 indeed, this is the common cry heard by Englishmen 
 wherever you go in Egypt. 
 
 Before we reached the Turkish Bazaar itself, the nar- 
 rowing streets seemed literally choked with the motley 
 crowd passing and repassing through them. The scene, 
 as viewed from our saddles, was strange and picturesque 
 in the extreme. It seemed like a sea of population, with 
 the white turbans, bobbing up and down, amidst rising 
 and subsiding waves. Again and again we were jammed 
 tightly up in the living mass, when our driver could not 
 open space for us in front, however loudly he might 
 scream, nor move our donkeys an inch forward, however 
 smartly he might belabour them behind. All we could 
 do was to exercise patience, and attend to the warning 
 of our youngsters, who repeatedly cautioned us to have 
 a care over our pockets and jewelry, for there were Arab 
 sharpers in the crowd. By movements at intervals, we 
 pushed our way slowly forwards, alighting at different 
 stages to examine richly ornamented mosques, marble 
 fountains, and baths. Leaving our asses at the pole- 
 barrier next the street, we went into the mosque of 
 Sultan Kalaoon, or the " Mosque of the Madhouse,'^ as 
 it is commonly called, and found it to be a large, 
 solemn structure, supported by huge ponderous columns. 
 
CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 31 
 
 and surmounted by arches of the Saracenic or horse- 
 shoe form. Taking off our shoes, as required on enter- 
 ing upon the " holy ground ^^ of Mahommedan worship, 
 we passed through the doorway of the screen into 
 the inner compartment, where stood the tomb of the 
 founder, — and beyond it the circular niche for prayer 
 curiously inlaid with mother-of-pearl and mosaic work, 
 and divided into compartments by rows of small, dumpy 
 columns. The spandrils of the arches and the windows 
 above are adorned with light, elegant tracery ; and on 
 the whole the effect is gorgeous and impressive. On 
 resuming our ride, we soon reached the veritable Turkish 
 Bazaar, which we entered on the right by a narrow, 
 shady, lane-like passage, where it was all but impossible 
 for two donkeys on meeting to pass one another. We 
 saw, as we rode leisurely along in these dusky passages^ 
 all redolent with aromatics and musk, the small, cup- 
 board-like shops at the sides, richly stored with clothing 
 and jewelry ; and their owners sitting on the low dais 
 in front, in dreamy repose, with slippers by their side, 
 smoking their pipes, or sipping tiny cups of hot coffee, 
 as if careless and independent of business altogether. 
 We then rode through other bazaars, stopping at the 
 several departments of manufacture and sale, to examine 
 different articles of silk, cotton, and woollen dresses, and 
 handling the curiously wrought slippers, gold embroi- 
 dered jackets, ornate and elegantly fashioned pipes, and 
 firelocks inlaid with ivory or gold. We gazed upon 
 magicians, snake-charmers, mountebanks, and story- 
 tellers, with their encircling crowds of wonderers, as we 
 passed along on our patient steeds ; and returned to our 
 hotel another way, by unpaved streets of the nar- 
 rowest dimensions, where — from the projecting lattices 
 
32* CAIRO AND ITS W&N*£RS. 
 
 above — occupants of opposite houses might hold tete-h' 
 tete conversations, and look into each other's apartments 
 without difficulty; and where the only opening for 
 light was from a narrow strip of sky, like a wave of blue 
 ribbon, overhead. The lattice-work in front of some of 
 the projecting windows of the upper stories is very beau- 
 tiful : and some houses, in their lower stories, have 
 circular and horse-shoe headed doorways, with orna- 
 mental hoodmoulds covering delicate interlaced stone- 
 work, and enclosing sentences in Arabic characters from 
 the Koran, On looking through the doorways of some 
 superior dwellings, we could see large open courts sur- 
 rounded by spacious suites of apartments for the different 
 sexes ; while in front of the entrance were seated black, 
 swabby eunuchs, in their purple, green, and scarlet 
 dresses, lounging on cushions, and waited on by slaves, 
 as if they were the major-domos of these mansions. 
 Most of the streets, however, through which we passed, 
 were lined at the sides by the darkest and dirtiest hovels 
 imaginable, from which emerged half-naked men and 
 women ; and at length we had to hasten the paces of 
 our beasts from a part occupied by females, who, without 
 veil or covering of any kind to hide their painted, saucy 
 faces, made it plain, by their looks and gestures, what 
 they were. 
 
 After taking rest at our inn, we rode some four miles 
 north of the city, to the celebrated Gardens and Palace 
 of Shoobra. The road was broad, and lay through an 
 arched avenue of acacia and sycamore trees, which 
 shaded us effectually from the sun, and rendered our 
 ride cool and pleasant. We found the gardens pretty, 
 and fragrant with the scent of roses and geraniums, but 
 too formal and Dutch-like in their arrangement and 
 
THE SUBURBS. 33 
 
 radiating lines to satisfy English eyes. We plucked 
 lemons and oranges, by leave of the native gardeners, 
 and found them truly refreshing after our protracted 
 ride. We were then admitted to the palace-fountains 
 provided by Mehemet Ali for the ladies of his hareem. 
 It is a large quadrangular bason of water, surrounded 
 by a covered corridor, the mason-work of which is of 
 Carrara marble, fancifully sculptured and adorned by 
 Italian workmen. On each side, within the corridor, 
 and projecting into the large bason, are sumptuous 
 seats ; and at each angle of the building is a superb 
 room with divans, fitted up in Turkish and European 
 styles combined ; while in different parts stand and 
 hang large, brilliant glass chandeliers. To this spacious 
 marble fountain of, perhaps, one hundred yards long on 
 each side, and four feet deep, the Pasha^s wives come at 
 their pleasure to bathe and to sport themselves, attended 
 by their watchful keepers, the eunuchs, who have the 
 sole guardianship of the place during its possession by 
 the ladies, and who alone have the privilege at such 
 times of entering within its precincts. On going, we 
 met the Pasha's brother on the road, and in returning 
 we passed, in their several carriages, the Pasha's sister 
 and the Pasha^s child, with its English governess. The 
 road was thronged with natives, their asses, and their 
 camels ; and at every few yards on our way, both in 
 going and returning, we met richly dressed merchants 
 of the city, who had their villas and gardens in the 
 neighbourhood, some of them in carriages, preceded by 
 outrunners, but mostly on slender, prancing steeds, 
 richly caparisoned. 
 
 In the evening, after dinner, we went to the English 
 Church clergyman's, (Rev. Mr. Lieder's,) attended by a 
 
34 THE SUBURBS. 
 
 man with a lantliorn_, which all persons are required to 
 have with them in the streets of Cairo, after nightfall. 
 We here found Miss Daniell, whom we had known in 
 England, and who, with Mrs. Lieder, her friend, most 
 readily gave us useful information, and showed us all 
 the courteous and considerate attention we could desire 
 during our stay in Egypt. 
 
 Sun., Oct. 7. — Went to the English Church, in Rev. 
 Mr. Lieder's house : heard a converted Jew preach a 
 good gospel sermon, from Rev. i. 5, to a congregation 
 of about thirty persons, chiefly English ; and afterwards 
 partook of the Lord^s Supper with about a dozen com- 
 municants. In the evening we had a " church in the 
 house,'' being too much indisposed by eastern sickness 
 to leave our room ; and the night that followed was one 
 of considerable suffering. 
 
 Mon.y Oct. 8. — Mrs. Jobson and self rose in the 
 morning in great weakness. During the day, however, 
 we felt sufficiently restored to visit the Protestant burial- 
 ground, and read the names and inscriptions on the 
 grave-stones of many from our own land ; and we after- 
 wards drove to the Mosque of Omar, the Roman Camp, 
 and Old Cairo. The mosque is said to be the oldest in 
 Egypt, and to have been built on the model of the 
 temple at Mecca. The Roman Camp is, in reality, a 
 ruined fortress ; and within its enclosure lies a Coptic 
 village. Here the Copts show you a building which, 
 they say, was occupied by the Holy Family while in 
 Egypt. The inside of it we could not see, the key being 
 missing. Napoleon III. recently sent from his army a 
 guardian for this " holy place ; " but the Coptic priest 
 who had the charge of it, preferring to remain its 
 custodian, hid the keys. It was only a mean-looking 
 
ANCIENT CHRISTIAN REMAINS. 35 
 
 building externally. Another spot shown by the Copts^ 
 and much revered by them, is one on which some cruel 
 martyrdoms of the early Christians were made under 
 Diocletian. They also show you an upper room, at the 
 head of a broad flight of stairs, which they aver to have 
 been the banquet-hall of Marc Antony and Cleopatra. 
 To me, the really impressive remnant of antiquity shown 
 here was an old Coptic Christian church in an upper 
 story, and which is declared by the Copts to be as much 
 as fifteen hundred years old. This is an exaggeration; 
 but it is evident that the church is very old, and it pro- 
 bably stands where believers in Christ assembled for 
 worship almost as far back as the beginning of Chris- 
 tianity. The church is very primitive in its plan and 
 form. Lengthwise it is divided into four compartments, 
 each of which has now an altar at the east end ; and 
 now, as in early times, the females, the novitiates, and 
 the young, have their several places assigned to them in 
 these difi'erent compartments. The church is supported 
 in its upper walls by marble pillars, originally white, 
 but now grey with age. It is covered by four open, 
 circular roofs of primitive construction. The pulpit is 
 also of white marble. Within the latticed screen of the 
 chancel is the reading-desk, from whence the Scriptures 
 are daily read ; and there is another similar reading-desk 
 in the nave on this side of the screen. The church, in 
 its fittings and ornaments of altars, gilt pictures, and 
 suspended lan^s, displays signs of departure from 
 primitive simplicity. Nevertheless it is a marvel that 
 here, where Roman paganism sought by its iron power 
 to crush Christianity in its infancy, and where Mahom- 
 medanism has for so many years raged with fanatical 
 fury, a church should still exist, where Christ is professed 
 
36 THE NTLOMETER. 
 
 and worshipped^ and where His Gospels are read daily. 
 Surely some great design of Divine Providence must be 
 connected with this fact, — the true emblem for which is 
 the bush unconsumed in the flame. In the large, 
 spacious passage to this building a Christian school- 
 master was instructing a number of gabbling children, 
 who with himself were seated cross-legged upon the 
 floor. From the upper story of the church there is a 
 good view of the Nile and its fertile borders, with Old 
 Cairo immediately on the right, and with the dusky 
 Pyramids beyond. 
 
 From the Roman Camp we went down to Old Cairo, 
 which we found as narrow and dirty in its streets as the 
 lowest parts of New Cairo, and as much thronged with 
 inhabitants and traders of various classes. On reaching 
 the river side, we had a full view of the Isle of Roda, 
 which, opposite Old Cairo, stretches its banks length- 
 wise in the middle of the river for good part of a mile. 
 Roda is a most lovely island, and has been carefully 
 planted with trees, shrubs, and flowers, by British horti- 
 culturists, employed by the Pasha. It was at this 
 island that the " goodly child '^ Moses is said to have 
 been discovered by Pharaoh^s daughter, when she came 
 down to bathe. It might be so. There are still flags 
 growing at the borders of the island ; but the weight of 
 water rushing past it, with the turbulent eddies in front, 
 where the two currents meet, would make it, if then as 
 now, a most dangerous place for the ark of bulrushes 
 and its precious contents. We went in a boat over the 
 deep, hurrying water, to see at the head of the island 
 what 'has probably been on it, in one form or other, 
 from the time of the old Pharaohs — the Nilometer. 
 This is well know to be a graduated upright pillar, or 
 
THE pasha's naval ARCHITECT. 37 
 
 shaft, placed in a chamber, while the water rises, 
 through under channels, to a height equal to what it is 
 outside the island. During the season the rise of the 
 Nile is published by criers daily in the streets of Cairo ; 
 and taxes are levied by Government upon the land 
 accordingly. But it is said that the height of the waters 
 at the Nilometer is by some means made to correspond 
 more with the state of the exchequer than with the river 
 itself. When we were there, the river was higher than 
 it had been known to be for many seasons, and conse- 
 quently we could see little of the Nilometer-chamber 
 and its pillar, which were nearly covered by the abun- 
 dance of water that had flowed into the enclosure. 
 
 Tues., Oct, 9. — We could not leave our room for 
 sickness till the latter part of the day, when the Pasha's 
 chief engineer, who boarded at our hotel, proposed to 
 drive us down to Boulak, the port of Cairo, where he 
 would introduce us to an interesting character — the 
 Pasha's naval architect. We accepted his proposal; 
 and on reaching the house of the architect were sur- 
 prised to see, on his book-shelves, Adam Clarke's 
 Commentary, Wesley's and Watson's Works ; and the 
 Reports and Notices of our Wesleyan Missionary So- 
 ciety. We were wondering at the unexpected sight, 
 when the master of the dwelling entered, and was 
 introduced to us by the engineer as '^ Hassan-ain-Ef- 
 fendi." He was a finely-framed man, with large round 
 head and face of true Egyptian, or red olive, 
 complexion, and in full dress, of red cap, embroi- 
 dered tight jacket, baggy breeches, broad sash, &c. 
 He very courteously bade us be seated ; and when 
 I told him that I was a Methodist Minister, on my 
 way to a Conference in Australia, he became greatly 
 
 E "t 
 
38 THE pasha's naval architect. 
 
 excited, and related to us how, when in England for 
 education in his profession, under the patronage of 
 Mohammed Ali, he had seen much of the Wesleyans at 
 Sheemess and "Rochester, and in London ; that he had 
 received favours from them both in social entertainment 
 and religious instruction ; had heard their most talented 
 preachers, such as Watson, Bunting, and Newton ; and 
 that he felt as if he could never repay the debt of grati- 
 tude he owed the Methodists for what thev had done for 
 him. He further stated that he continued to read their 
 publications, and thus explained what had so greatly- 
 surprised us in the books on his shelves. He expressed 
 his great delight at our visit; and said that he had 
 seen me on a former day in the city, and was strongly 
 moved "by a mysterious impulse '' to step forward, 
 and introduce himself; but refrained from doing so, 
 lest he should be deemed by one who knew nothing 
 of him as a mere touter, seeking to make gain of a 
 traveller. The friend who had brought us said he knew 
 nothing of this, nor that I was a Methodist Minister ; 
 but simply thought that we should be gratified by inter- 
 course with an intelligent and accomplished Egyptian. 
 We mutually rejoiced in our acquaintance, thus strangely 
 brought about ; and, not willing to enjoy his pleasure 
 alone, he went and brought to us his beautiful wife. 
 After the ceremonies of introduction, she gradually 
 unveiled herself, and became very free and conversable. 
 His youthful son, the true image of his honest-faced 
 father, was also brought to us. We conversed on 
 various subjects; and arranged with him rides and 
 walks for sight-seeing in the city and its neighbourhood. 
 He told us of wonderful deliverances he had received 
 under persevering persecutions from men who^ as he 
 
THE "petrified FOREST. 39 
 
 described, had "the wayward minds of children with 
 the despotic power of lions and tigers ; '' and he thank- 
 fully ascribed his deliverances to God. 
 
 Wed. J Octi 10. — In the house all day; and in bed 
 most of it, from continued exhaustion. 
 
 Thurs., Oct. 11. — Somewhat stronger; and rode on 
 donkeys several miles out of Cairo, to see the " Petrified 
 Forest." We wound through the narrow, unpaved 
 streets of the crowded city, and, leaving it at the huge, 
 massive " Gate of Victory," we found ourselves in the 
 sandy desert, without a tree, or a bush, or a single 
 habitation to break its dead, monotonous aspect. Im- 
 mediately outside the gate was a crowded burial-ground, 
 covered with Egyptian graves and tombs, and without a 
 particle of verdure to relieve its loose, sandy soil. We 
 rode on under the scorching sun, meeting in our way 
 companies of dark Bedouins, with their camels and 
 firelocks, looking fiercely and savagely upon us, as 
 though they were going to take advantage of our help- 
 less condition. We smiled, and nodded good-will 
 towards them, and they passed on with their burdened 
 beasts to the gate of the city. By the time we reached 
 the " Petrified Forest " we were much exhausted by the 
 heat that fell directly upon our weak frames from the 
 sun overhead, and which was reflected from the burning 
 sand. We were disappointed with the " Forest," as it 
 is erroneously called ; for though there are pieces of 
 petrified wood — of as much, in some instances, as one 
 or two feet in length — strewing an elevated part of the 
 desert for miles in extent, yet there are no stems of 
 petrified trees standing, as we had been led to expect. 
 After some rest on the heated ground, we returned 
 over the bald, bare desert, having the Mokattam range 
 
 E 2 
 
40 " TOMBS OF THE CALIPHs/' 
 
 of mountains on our left ; and seeing in our way, as the 
 only things to hreak the monotonous scene of parched 
 sand, the whitened bones of camels and asses that had 
 fallen there, and been left to bleach in the sun. 
 
 We rode up to those wonderful monuments of the 
 past, erroneously called " Tombs of Caliphs ; ^^ and read 
 in those massive and highly-ornamented structures, with 
 their dilapidated walls, minarets, and domes, a humi- 
 liating lesson on human vanity. Whom those gigantic 
 tombs, with all their Saracenic arches and enrichments, 
 were founded to represent, none can now tell with cer- 
 tainty ; though their builders, of not more than five or six 
 hundred years since, reared them as proud memorials 
 of their own families and names ! We found in them 
 most wretched, half-naked men and women, who lite- 
 rally " had their dwellings among the tombs,^' and who, 
 like all others of their class in Egypt, clamoured hard 
 for " backsheesh." Our donkey-drivers, on returning 
 to the city, plied us equally hard for "backsheesh;" 
 telling us that their eighteenpence a day for each 
 donkey had all to be given to their masters ; and that, 
 if we gave them nothing, they would go altogether 
 unpaid. We did not believe this. But it seemed hard 
 to be enjoying so much ourselves, and not to gratify at 
 a small cost poor lads who had been civil and constant 
 throughout; so I invariably gave them something for 
 themselves at the end of our days' rides. 
 
 On reaching Cairo we found that the mail-bags had 
 arrived by Marseilles and Alexandria from England ; 
 and we were cheered with letters and news dispatched 
 for us a fortnight after we left Southampton. In the 
 night the Bombay and India passengers came to Cairo, 
 and with great noise and clamour took possession of 
 
DERVISH WORSHIP. 41 
 
 bed-rooms within our hotel. On former nights_, the 
 several republics of dogs in the streets made noise 
 enough in their wolf-like barking and howling at one 
 another ; but on this night one would have supposed 
 that every foot of street in Cairo was crowded with 
 disturbed and angry dogs : so loud and violent was the 
 noise which they made. 
 
 Frid,y Oct. 12. — Still weak and incapable of much 
 exertion ; but drove with Hassan-ain-Effendi, to the 
 College of the Dervishes, to witness their strange 
 ceremonies. The building — or convent, as it may 
 be called — stands upon the bank of the Nile. We 
 entered next the river, through a quadrangular court- 
 yard, in which, on high, long benches, under over- 
 shadowing trees, were spread hairy mats for the 
 recluses. We entered the Mosque, and saw in the 
 middle of the floor from twenty to thirty wild-looking 
 men, standing in a circle round their leader, or fugle- 
 man, in various costumes. On one side of them were 
 musicians with their tom-toms, cymbals, trumpets, 
 and other instruments of which we knew not the names. 
 At the sound of the music, their leader, a noble-looking 
 man in a rich dress, began to move, and to say, with 
 a gentle voice, " AUah ! " '' Allah ! '' The men in the 
 circle followed him in his movements, and said, almost 
 in a whisper, " Allah ! " '^ Allah ! " The leader then, 
 instead of walking round and nodding, as it were, to 
 each of his brethren, stood in the centre, as a position- 
 master and time-keeper for them all, and increased 
 his motions gradually, until the action became quick 
 and violent, and until, by swinging and bending 
 backwards and forwards, his long, dishevelled hair 
 swept the floor, alternately, before and behind. This 
 
 E 8 
 
43 HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 was accompanied by groans, and sighs, and exclama- 
 tions of the deepest and wildest kind, and was imitated 
 by the men in the circle. The whole company con- 
 tinued their excitement, until they seemed to become 
 mad with it, and you felt sure they must drop down 
 dead with exhaustion. To our surprise they prolonged 
 these violent motions, which made them sweat and 
 foam terrifically, for a considerable time; and until 
 by their loud exclamations of " Allah ! '^ " Allah ! " in 
 connexion with the discordant sounds of the tom-toms, 
 cymbals, and trumpets, the Mosque seemed to become 
 a perfect Pandemonium in sight and sound. Then, 
 in obedience to the change of motion and cries from 
 their leader, they would all suddenly change, and be 
 like him, until nature could endure no more, and they 
 rushed forth from the Mosque into their court-yard, 
 and threw themselves at length upon their mats. 
 Hassan-ain-Effendi led my wife away on his arm, and 
 I followed. The dervishes gazed curiously upon us 
 as we passed by them. We were feeling sad at this 
 strange exhibition of poor deluded human nature, 
 when our friend and guide broke the silence by saying, 
 "They whom you have seen to-day are the Ranters 
 of Mahommedanism ! What you have witnessed is not 
 prescribed by the Koran, but is performed under the 
 false idea of higher sanctity and of more meritorious 
 service." 
 
 Sat.f Oct. 13. — ^Went to Heliopolis — about two 
 hours^ ride from Cairo — passed some mosques and 
 tombs, and one of the Pasha's palaces, on the road. 
 Then we rode through the village of Matareeh, beyond 
 which we saw a well, — the water was raised by oxen, — 
 said to have been the well where Joseph and Mary 
 
NILE-BOAT AND VOYAGE. 43 
 
 were refreshed on their flight into Egypt. Adjoining 
 the well is a garden, in the midst of which is an 
 extremely old sycamore^ under which, it is also said, 
 the Holy Family reclined. The tree and well are in the 
 direct road from Syria to Egypt; and the traditions 
 of their use by Joseph and the Virgin are very old. 
 We had some difficulty in reaching Heliopolis, because 
 of the inundation of the Nile. There are numerous 
 mounds around, by which we could trace the position 
 and circuit of the city, once so famous for its schools 
 of philosophy ; and in a garden stood a solitary obelisk 
 of red granite, said to be one of two which stood at the 
 entrance of the great Temple of the Sun, and at the 
 end of a line of sphynxes. Plato, Herodotus, and, 
 perhaps, Moses, learned here the wisdom of the 
 Egyptians ; and here, four thousand years ago, Joseph 
 married the fair Asenath, daughter of Potipherah, priest 
 of On. 
 
 Sun.j Oct. 14. — Went to the Episcopal Church at 
 Cairo in the morning, and heard there a faithful 
 and excellent sermon. In the afternoon^ attended 
 the service of the American Missionary, who also 
 preached a good practical sermon from, "Do ye now 
 believe ? '' 
 
 Mon.y Oct. 15. — Arranged for a Nile-boat with 
 Hassan-ain-Effendi. There was much difficulty in get- 
 ting it ready, because of the leisurely movements of the 
 natives ; and we did not leave Boulak till half- past five 
 in the evening. Our boat was large and commodious. 
 The fore-part was alloted to the Arab sailors, who were 
 seven in number. The after-part contained a saloon 
 with cushions, a bath, and three bed-cabins ; and there 
 were pillowed seats on deck by day. Our vessel had 
 
44 THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX. 
 
 but one mast forward, with yard and sail bowed like the 
 wing of a bird. We took a cook with us, and he cooked 
 well ; but he looked like a rascal^ and was known to be 
 one. Our turbaned captain was a tall, upright, venera- 
 ble-looking man, with a long, flowing, white beard, and 
 a Turkish robe. The turbid water was abundant in the 
 river, and overflowed its banks in all directions. We 
 floated quietly down with the current until we reached 
 the neighbourhood of old Memphis, and there we 
 anchored for the night. 
 
 Tues., Oct. 16. — Rose early, and went on deck, when, 
 in excess of our expectations, we beheld before us a 
 multitude of Pvramids : some twelve or more in num- 
 ber. They were the Pyramids of Geezeh, Sakkara, 
 Abooseer, Dashdor, and Memphis ; and looked, as they 
 loomed through the maze of the Egyptian atmosphere, 
 with their vague, vast bulk, like antediluvian things, or 
 gigantic tenants of a former world. Yet one could not 
 but remember that busy crowds of toilers — perhaps of 
 God^s own chosen people — had piled them up at the 
 bidding of despotic kings, and amidst great suffering; 
 that solemn trains of priests and heralds of pomp and 
 power had stalked around them ; and that the oppres- 
 sive tyrants who had devised their erection had passed 
 away to death, — the pale realm of their imagined 
 Osiris, — in some instances without securing their 
 own interment in the colossal piles called by their 
 names. The crowds had also passed away, and succes- 
 sive crowds of varied visage and speech had struggled 
 for power by their side, and were now hushed in death ; 
 but there, before us, were these huge dumb witnesses of 
 the busy deeds of four thousand years, with the mantle 
 of eternal silence upon them, seeming to assert for 
 
THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX. 45 
 
 themselves the office of everlasting guardians of the 
 desert. 
 
 We left the vessel for a day^s excursion to the 
 Pyramids of Geezeh^ and went over the inundated 
 country some mile or more in a small boat to a point 
 of land where we found asses waiting for us ; they had 
 been sent there for us in the night, by our own direc- 
 tion. We had now seven or eight miles to ride on 
 embankments, in a circuitous and serpentine route, 
 because of the overflowing waters. On our way we 
 passed by villages of mud buildings and fields of date- 
 palms, and met numerous travellers with their loaded 
 camels and asses ; while, on either hand, we saw the 
 residents of those parts treading their painful way upon 
 narrow miry paths, or paddling over submerged fields to 
 their isolated dwellings. In our winding course on the 
 mud-banks the Pyramids were sometimes before us, and 
 sometimes behind us_, and sometimes it seemed that, 
 instead of advancing towards them, we were leaving 
 them altogether. 
 
 Having crossed the inundated country, we reached 
 the desert, in which we had several miles to ride. The 
 wide expanse of sand was immeasurable. The heat was 
 intense, and seemed to pierce to the very brain. I 
 remained behind to meditate, and the solitude was 
 awful. The silence that reigned there was of eternity 
 rather than time ; so that one could imagine that the 
 beat of the pulse could be heard in it. I toiled on 
 after my wife and some friends from Cairo who had 
 accompanied us. The blanched surface of the sandy 
 expanse glared all around under the fiery rays of the 
 noonday sun, until the reflected and glittering heat 
 dazed and pained the eyes exceedingly. Before they 
 
46 THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX. 
 
 arrived at tlie Pyramids, I overtook my companions; 
 but I was so spent and exhausted, that I could not even 
 look upon the massive wonders I had travelled to see. 
 With trembling limbs, I got down from my worn and 
 jaded ass, and threw myself into the mouth of an old 
 gaping tomb, until I should recover my strength ; while 
 my wife, who had borne the heat better than I, kept 
 at bay, by determined looks and threats, a crowd of 
 Arabs, who in their filthy garments thronged near to 
 minister to me. After an hour's rest, we rode round 
 the vast structures, and were followed close by noisy 
 men and boys, who cried incessantly for " backsheesh.'' 
 Two gentlemen who were with us, and who were strong 
 and expert in limb, climbed the great Pyramid of 
 Cheops with difficulty; but a number of the begging 
 Arabs ran up to the top before them with the agility of 
 cats. We went into the mouth of the descending pas- 
 sage by which this Pyramid is entered; but did not 
 attempt to mount the polished stones at the angle, — not 
 venturing upon a climb up successive shelving heights 
 to an altitude of one hundred and twenty-two feet 
 higher than St. PauPs — and that under the vertical rays 
 of an Egyptian sun. 
 
 It was not till we had paced our weary way round 
 the Pyramids, and viewed them at different points and 
 groupings, till we had seen a man dwarfed to an insect 
 in size, at the top of the highest, and, finally, marked 
 that the human stature was little more than half the 
 height of the lower tiers of stones with which they are 
 built, that we realized the vast size of these monster 
 erections. That type of mystery — the Sphynx — raised 
 in us, as it has raised in thousands, dumb wonder. 
 What could we say to it? Carved out of the solid 
 
THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX. 47 
 
 limestone rock, of which the Pyramids are built, and 
 imbedded in the accumulating sand, until its breast and 
 paws, with the temple they enclose, are entirely buried 
 out of sight, it still measured more than one hundred 
 feet from the surface of the plain to the top of its 
 frittered crown. The face is much mutilated, but it 
 still bears the expression of calm and dignified repose, 
 and some of the colouring with which it was originally 
 covered remains. With its broad and sharply-defined 
 Nubian lips, and large, elongated eyes, it seemed to 
 smile sadly, as if at the futile efforts of Caviglia and 
 others, to wrest from this giant child of the desert the 
 yellow sand which it has increasingly gathered within 
 its embrace, during forty centuries. 
 
 The great causeway upon which the prepared stones 
 were brought from the quarries of Toorah and Massarah, 
 several miles off, for the outer casement of the 
 Pyramids of Geezeh, on the rock platform here levelled 
 for them, seems to have been a more marvellous work 
 than even the Pyramids themselves. This mountain 
 embankment, made of polished stones and sculptured 
 with ancient figures, broken in some parts, and hidden 
 by the drifted sand in others, may still be traced, 
 stretching its gigantic way across the desert towards 
 the Nile. 
 
 I sketched these wonders from their most impressive 
 points, amidst the prying gaze of surrounding Arabs, 
 who eagerly sought to do anything for me that would 
 secure to them money payment. Having obtained 
 coffee, eggs, and cakes, from a village by means of these 
 Arabs, who fetched them through a full mile of the 
 flood, and having sung, "Home, sweet home!" from 
 the side of the great Pyramid, with our faces towards 
 
48 THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX. 
 
 England^ and some verses of a hymn on the immuta- 
 bility of God, — much to the astonishment and apparent 
 delight of the natives,— we distributed among them, 
 through their sheik, what both he and they said would 
 satisfy them; but after we had done so, they still fol- 
 lowed and clamoured for " backsheesh/' My friend 
 the engineer pointed his gun at them, to frighten them 
 away; but they would not leave us, or cease their 
 entreaties. He then snatched from one of the stoutest 
 of them a heavy staff, with which he belaboured them 
 most unmercifully; but they bore it all in the most 
 servile manner possible, still hoping to gain a few more 
 coppers. I gave them more, thinking I should never 
 see them or the Pyramids again, and being desirous 
 of leaving them contented and happy; but they still 
 begged of me, and even more clamorously than ever. 
 The orb of day was wheeling round to the west, and 
 descending so low, that the shadows of the Pyramids 
 spread themselves over miles of the plain. It was, 
 therefore, time for us to return. We obtained a boat 
 to convey us part of the way; then rode on donkeys 
 some miles to the point where we had left our Arab 
 sailors in the morning waiting for our return. On 
 regaining our vessel, we dined with a good appetite, 
 and slept through the night in our saloon cabin, 
 dreaming wildly and confusedly of our sights and 
 exploits during the day. 
 
 TVed., Oct. 17. — Floated in our Nile-boat to points 
 of the swollen river from whence we could see other 
 Pyramids — Sakkara, Dashoor, Abooseer, and Memphis. 
 The site on which stood the ancient Memphis of the 
 Pharaohs was overflowed with water, through the high 
 inundation. Moses is said to have been found in the 
 
THE pasha's palace AND HIS SOLDIERS. 49 
 
 ark at the Isle of Roda, but it was more probably here. 
 We went opposite the vast quarries of Toorah and 
 Massarah, which are on the eastern side of the river, 
 and gazed on their huge blocks and excavations. Upon 
 some of these the names of early and mighty Egyptian 
 kings may be seen inscribed, with a relation of the 
 removal of celebrated slabs and monuments there pre- 
 pared. We then returned down the Nile, leaving 
 Geezeh on our left, and the Isle of Roda and Old 
 Cairo on our right, passing the Pasha's Palace, which 
 is large, in the form of two squares, and adorned with 
 arches and colonnades. The railway runs into its very 
 court ; and when lighted up, after sunset, the building, 
 with its abundance of windows, looks almost like the 
 Crystal Palace by night. Palaces and soldiers are the 
 Pasha's hobbies. He has several palaces in different 
 parts ; and he takes with him thirty or forty thousand 
 soldiers wherever he goes. They are principally young 
 men, raised by conscription, kept two or three years, 
 and then sent home without pay. To avoid this 
 service many used in former times to mutilate their 
 hands, and to destroy the sight of their eyes : so that 
 the number of maimed hands and of one-eyed men in 
 Egypt is amazing. Such self-disqualification for mili- 
 tary service is now prohibited under severe penalty, and 
 is thereby discouraged. We saw some thirty thousand 
 of the Pasha's soldiers enter Cairo one day, returning 
 with him from his palace in the desert. First came 
 several rows of pioneers, with aprons and axes ; then 
 the tom-tom band ; then the brass band ; and then foot 
 and horse soldiers. The infantry were in soiled cotton 
 uniform, and the cavalry in gay trappings, helmets, and 
 swords. Then came carriages, with cannon and ammu- 
 
 r 
 
50 TOMBS OF THE MAMELUKES AND OF MEHEMET ALL 
 
 nition. This order of things was repeated several times 
 in the march of the Pasha^s troops^ as they passed before 
 us towards their barracks by his palace at Old Cairo; 
 and it was evidently a show exhibition_, got up for effect. 
 Many of these soldiers were thronging the courts of the 
 Pasha^s Palace^ as we sailed by it on our return from the 
 pyramids, and served to give life and colour to the scene 
 as we approached Boulak. The sun went down that 
 evening in fiery vermilion, and flooded the river, its 
 banks, the palm trees, and the several groups of 
 pyramids, until, by degrees, the whole picture was 
 dyed next in deep crimson, and then in red purple, and 
 changed, lastly, into a colder and more solemn tone. 
 It was a memorable close to a memorable excursion, 
 and can never be forgotten by those who witnessed it. 
 On landing, and driving to our hotel, we found that no 
 news had arrived of the " Candia," the steamer we had 
 been daily expecting would reach Suez to convey us to 
 Ceylon. 
 
 Thurs., Oct. 18. — Went with Hassan-ain-Effendi to 
 see the tombs of the Mamelukes, and found the royal 
 ladies of the Hareem at the family burial-place of 
 Mehemet Ali, close bv. The tombs of the Mamelukes 
 are on an elevated platform, and adorned with piUars, 
 or upright marble slabs at the ends, bearing Arabic in- 
 scriptions. After examining them, we went to the 
 celebrated Mosque of Mehemet Ali. It is his family 
 burial-place, and has within it some gorgeous tombs, 
 with embroidered blue and green cloth and velvet 
 coverings. The ladies of the Hareem were still on the 
 premises, having come there to mourn for the princely 
 dead ; and their sumptuous carriages, with Nubian 
 attendants, and lounging eunuchs, were waiting for them 
 
MOSLEM WORSHIP. 51 
 
 outside. When following our Turkish guides among 
 the tombs, we heard some laughing voices in the 
 adjoining court. I stepped hastily to the window to 
 see who they were, but there were shouts and gestures 
 of warning to me not to look ; and we were afterwards 
 informed that the ladies of the Hareem with their white 
 slaves had been peeping at us from the court-yard, 
 through the mosque windows, and that their keepers 
 were alarmed. Of all the sights of Egypt, nothing was 
 more offensive to me than the huge, turtle-fleshed 
 eunuchs who had the guardianship of higher-class 
 women. It is true that, in mere physique, some of them 
 were large, grand men. But they looked so bloated 
 and dead-eyed, and were so brutally haughty and over- 
 bearing, that one could only feel disgust for them. 
 This feeling was deepened by some things that we heard 
 of their conduct towards the ladies of the Hareem, — and 
 which one cannot repeat. 
 
 Frid,, Oct. 19. — At noon rode up to the Mosque at 
 the Citadel, it being the great day of the week for 
 Moslem worship — the Mahommedan Sabbath. We 
 were permitted to enter, on pulling off our shoes at the 
 threshold of such holy ground, and on the payment of 
 " backsheesh ^' for cloth coverings to our feet. This 
 mosque is a huge structure, standing on a level plat- 
 form of the rock, high up above all other buildings, at 
 the back of the city. Its plan is a square, with tall^ 
 slender minarets at the angles, and with a large court in 
 front surrounded with a corridor, and having a superb 
 fountain in the centre. The whole of this is in Oriental 
 alabaster, except the outer walls. The mosque itself is 
 covered with an immense dome. The interior is sump- 
 tuously fitted up with arabesque ornaments, coloured 
 
 F 2 
 
52 VIEW OF CAIRO FROM THE CITADEL. 
 
 windows, Turkey carpets, and with hundreds of swing- 
 ing glass lamps in radiating circles. On the right 
 corner, as you enter, is the tomb of Mehemet Ali, the 
 founder, covered and adorned within its screen with the 
 richest colours. The worshippers under the lofty dome 
 were numerous. When I entered, they were seated upon 
 the carpeted floor, without their slippers, and in their 
 white turbans, listening to an Imaum, or priest, who 
 was addressing them from a side gallery-like pulpit. 
 Afterwards the priest came down, approached the 
 central niche at the far side, looking towards Mecca, 
 and prayed, when all prostrated themselves with their 
 foreheads upon the ground, and responded until 
 the murmur of their worship seemed to make the 
 place tremble. The Mahommedans were evidently 
 jealous of our presence, and eyed us askance with 
 fiery glances; but I sketched a plan of theu* proud 
 building, notwithstanding. 
 
 Through the court in front, and stepping a few paces 
 beyond, we reached the spot were Emin Bey despe- 
 rately leaped on horseback over the parapet some forty 
 feet down, and saved his life at the well known massacre 
 of the Mamelukes. In the front of the mosque, from 
 the projecting platform of the foundation-rock, is a 
 commanding view of Grand Cairo and its surrounding 
 neighbourhood. Immediately below are the massive 
 buildings of the arsenal, with the splendid mosque of 
 Sultan Hassan on the right, and the mosques and tombs 
 of the Mamelukes on the left. Around these is the 
 vast, mingled mass of city streets and buildings, not 
 pressed downwards by the heavy mounds of numerous 
 domes as in the Turkish cities of Europe, but lifted up 
 lightly towards heaven by innumerable lofty minarets. 
 
DEPARTURE. 53 
 
 which gleam and glitter, with their golden crescents, like 
 brilliant stars of the early evening. Beyond this, on 
 the one hand, flows from Sakkara in the south, to the 
 point of the Delta in the north, the broad, shining 
 river, fringed on both shores to some distance with rich 
 green verdure, and bordered with palms ; and on the 
 other hand, beyond the city walls and gates is the vast, 
 level desert, with the cathedral-like tombs of the Caliphs 
 in its midst. And all this is viewed, not under a glaring 
 light which distracts you, as when looking upon great 
 cities of the west ; but under a soft, balmy, mellowing 
 light of creamy transparency, which smooths down all 
 rigid lines, and blends the whole into harmonious 
 dreaminess, such as has been most successfully given in 
 the mysterious colouring of Claude and Turner. In- 
 deed, Egypt, and especially as seen from an elevated 
 stand-point like the Citadel, and under the tints of a 
 golden purple sunset, is the most perfect dreamland 
 that can be visited by the European traveller. It is the 
 true field for imagination, being, with all its picturesque 
 and glittering objects, and its dreamy light, the seat of 
 early fable and history, the birthplace of art and science, 
 and the cradle of philosophy and learning. 
 
 Sun., Oct. 20. — We left Cairo by rail for Suez, to sail 
 by the " Columbian," as the " Candia^' had not arrived. 
 We sat for a time with our backs towards the engine, 
 that we might see the mosques, minarets, and pyramids 
 of the city which had so deeply interested us, as long as 
 possible. They gradually faded from our view, and were 
 at length wholly lost in the red, dusky haze of an 
 Egyptian atmosphere. We turned to the scene imme- 
 diately around us. Our way was through the great 
 desert^ and it seemed a real desecration of the solitude 
 
 r 3 
 
54 THE DESERT RAILWAY. 
 
 which had dwelt there through successive ages, for our 
 screeching engine to rush furiously over it, dragging a 
 train of hollow-sounding carrriages, with their eager, 
 living contents. But there was nothing to disturb in 
 our course. No animals; no birds; and no wind. 
 There was no danger of our scattered sparks setting fire 
 to grass or corn ; for there was not a tuft or a blade 
 of vegetation to be seen. There needed no guardsmen 
 at crossings ; no gatekeepers ; for there was not a living, 
 moving thing to be seen, except here and there some 
 straggling Bedouins, with their patient, plodding camels, 
 until we reached the midway station, provided by the 
 Pasha for the refreshment of travellers, and where some 
 two or three Europeans were to be seen among the 
 attendants. As we progressed, the hot atmosphere 
 became very oppressive, and trembled over the ?andy 
 expanse around like the quivering film over lime-kilns. 
 The delusive mirage now fantastically played its tricks 
 before us, as we rushed along. It expanded into bright, 
 blue lakes, bordered with clustered groves, and glittered 
 at different points with mimic waves. The vision then 
 receded, dissolved, reunited, and combined again with 
 fresh forms, and at length faded away altogether. Near 
 Suez we passed two or three mud villages of the meanest 
 and most desolate kind ; and the natives came out of 
 their filthy hovels to gaze upon us, almost naked. We 
 wound round by some dark, rocky mountains, and by 
 four, P.M., we reached Suez, where there is a fortification 
 and a few desolate houses. We dined in the large, 
 quadrangular court of the European hotel, belonging to 
 the Peninsular and Oriental Company, and where they 
 charged an extravagant price for a scanty dinner. In 
 the evening we left, with our luggage, by a small 
 
SUEZ, AND EMBARKATION ON THE RED SEA. 55 
 
 steamer, for the " Columbian," which was some two 
 miles from us. We steered our serpentine course 
 amidst the dangerous shoals at the head of the Red Sea, 
 by floating lights sent out for the occasion, and placed 
 at certain points. Arriving at our ship so late, with a 
 crowd of passengers beyond what the vessel could 
 accommodate with a prospect of anything like comfort, 
 there was no little noise and scuffle on board ; but as 
 soon as a cabin had been allotted us by the purser, we 
 went to it, and retired for the night — not to sleep, but 
 to rest ourselves as best we could in our coffin-like 
 berths. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 Passage down the Red Sea — Aden — Monsoons — Ceylon — Rich Scenery — 
 Native Schools — Matura — Animal and Vegetable Life — Buddhist 
 Temples — Dress of the Singhalese — Dondra Head — Methodism in 
 Ceylon — Constellation of the " Cross " — Morotto — Preaching to the 
 Singhalese — Mr. Gogerly — Kandy — Buddha's Foot and Tooth — Open- 
 ing of a Wesleyan Chapel for the Singhalese — Their Liberality and 
 Devotion — Farewell — Re-embarkation. 
 
 Sun., Oct. 21. — Rose early^ and on opening our 
 cabin door found men, women, and children, with black 
 and white nurses, lying on the floor of the passages 
 around, and giving a most camp-like appearance to 
 things between the decks. We picked our way to the 
 staircase, and climbed up speedily into the open air, 
 being anxious to escape from the suffocating atmosphere 
 below, and also to look upon the coast scenery of the 
 Red Sea. On deck we found a crowd of passengers 
 complaining of the insufficient accommodation they had 
 had through the night. Some were very loud and 
 boisterous in their complaints, and angrily threatened 
 protests against the Peninsular and Oriental Company 
 for ill-treatment and fraud. One, a military gentleman, 
 going out for command in Ceylon, declared that he would 
 report the whole affair to the " Horse Guards ! " This 
 somewhat amused us ; and we were ready to ask, if he 
 would not have the Directors of the Company tried by 
 court-martial, and punished at the halberts. In one 
 sense there was reason for complaint, inasmuch as very 
 
PASSAGE DOWN THE RED SEA. 67 
 
 high fares had been paid, with the expectation of good 
 accommodation ; and though soldiers may be willing to 
 ''camp out^^ on hard and scanty beds when on the 
 march, and travellers generally may be willing to 
 " rough*it '^ in the bush, yet when comfortable sleeping 
 room has been purchased at large cost, and is not pro- 
 vided, no wonder that men irritated by nausea and sea- 
 sickness should complain. We did not, however, join 
 the complainants; for though we had not the cabin- 
 comfort paid for and expected, yet we believed the 
 officers of the Company to have done the best they 
 could in the circumstances. The " Candia " had broken 
 down in her way from Aden to Suez, as we afterwards 
 learned, and on her non-arrival at port the " Colum- 
 bian,^' one of the Company's steam-ships there for 
 troops and not for passengers, was hastily fitted up to 
 receive us. This was the best that could be done in the 
 emergency ; and when men have done their best, it is 
 vain to complain — though with an overcrowded ship, 
 not the most clean, nor best provisioned, the passage 
 down the Red Sea, where some preceding us, with more 
 ample accommodations, had recently died under the in- 
 tensity of the heat, was not pleasing. By degrees, how- 
 ever, the noise of complainants subsided, frowns relaxed, 
 and gave way to smiles ; and our companions on board 
 submitted to their condition, and became agreeable and 
 cheerful. There were no seats provided on deck for the 
 passengers, not even so much as a hen-coop. It seemed 
 to be taken for granted that all would bring with them 
 their own chairs. Most of the old travellers had done 
 so, but novices in the route had expected to find forms 
 or benches awaiting them. They, however, who had 
 nothing but the deck, or the rope-platform at the stern 
 
58 PASSAGE DOWN THE RED SEA. 
 
 to rest upon, packed themselves up with cushions and 
 rugs, and made the best of their circumstances. 
 
 We had passed in the night the part of the Red Sea 
 where the Israelites are supposed to have crossed from 
 Egypt to the wilderness, before the pursuit by Pharaoh 
 and his host ; so that in going we were deprived of a 
 sight eagerly desired, and we could only hope to realize 
 it on our return. We could see on our left the Sinaitic 
 range of mountains, red and bald, as if they had passed 
 through fire, and then cooled down again, standing 
 against the blue sky in bold relief, and resting upon a 
 flat shore of yellow sand, which had not a bit of verdure, 
 or a living thing of any kind upon it ; but which con- 
 trasted finely with the dark indigo colour of the water 
 that margined its long, horizontal line. We could not 
 see the " Mount of God," from whence the Law, with 
 all its dread accompaniments, was given. It was more 
 easterly in the Sinaitic range than could be seen from 
 our line of passage, except under peculiar circumstances 
 of the atmosphere. Some lofty, conical peaks gleamed 
 out in the white heat of the distance, and some affirmed 
 these to be the veritable mountains of Serbal and Sinai ; 
 but we could not confidently receive the affirmation. 
 
 Notwithstanding the confusion and disquietude of our 
 over-crowded ship we contrived to hold two religious 
 services in the saloon during the day, and they were 
 well attended by the passengers and the crew. A 
 clergyman of the Establishment, proceeding as a mis- 
 sionary to India, took part with me in conducting the 
 services. We had on board the " Columbian " nearly 
 four hundred souls in all. Among the passengers were 
 military officers of rank, returning with their wives and 
 families to their regiments ; scions of the nobility, going 
 
PASSAGE DOWN THE RED SEA. 59 
 
 to Madras for the shooting season ; and merchants with 
 their families, returning to Calcutta, Hong-Kong, and 
 other parts of India and China, after a sojourn in their 
 native land to recruit health. Among all classes of 
 passengers on this route we found the Scotch prepon- 
 derate. Several sea-sick, languishing young ladies, who 
 seemed to have no objections to kindly attentions from 
 young gentlemen, and who could give no better account 
 of their errand to the eastern world than that their 
 brothers and cousins had sent for them to go thither, — 
 ceased, after awhile, to exact compassion, and, like every 
 body else, grew heartily cheerful, and made sport of the 
 very inconveniences and discomforts of which they had 
 at first distressingly complained. The greater number 
 of the crew were dark-coloured Lascars ; and it was 
 pleasing on the Sunday to see them in their clean cotton 
 dresses, and gay sashes and turbans : but we felt it odd 
 to see them at meal times taking up their curries with 
 their fingers from open, salver-like dishes, around which 
 they gathered. At sunset the Mahommedans among 
 them might be seen bowing down upon the deck in pro- 
 found reverence towards Mecca. »It seemed strange to 
 behold such devotion in men of their class ; and we were 
 ready to inquire, When will British sailors show them- 
 selves as devout for the religion of Christ ? The 
 Lascars let themselves out for hire in companies, under 
 their elected head-man or captain ; and it is amusing to 
 see the strut and swagger of some of these native chiefs, 
 and to hear their loud and shrieking whistle of autho- 
 rity. One of these was our pilot down the Gulf, and 
 seemed a most careful watcher of our course both by 
 day and night. 
 
 Mon., Oct. 22. — Lost sight of land on both sides. 
 
60 PASSAGE DOWN THE EED SEA. 
 
 Increasingly hot. Prayer-meeting at noon. Most 
 of the passengers slept on deck at night, but we kept 
 to our cabin for retirement, though the heat of the 
 atmosphere below was almost suffocating, and the cease- 
 less plaintive cries of suffering children around us were 
 distressing. 
 
 Tues.j Oct. 23. — Breeze on the open sea, which 
 somewhat tempered the heat, and made it bearable. 
 
 Wed.f Oct. 24. — Heat very oppressive. The fierce 
 rays of the sun penetrated the double awning stretched 
 over us; and, at times, when a breath of wind came 
 upon us from the coast, it was so heated by the desert 
 over which it had come, as to seem like the breath of a 
 furnace. Our drinking-water from the condenser was 
 too hot for use. Much bitter beer was taken by the 
 passengers, but it only seemed to increase their thirst, 
 and they lay faint and languishing from morning to 
 evening. In the afternoon we passed the remarkable 
 rocks of long table form, named the " Two Brothers," 
 which stand up from ,the sea a considerable height, 
 about halfway down from Suez to Aden, and near to 
 each other. At the close of the day the sun went down 
 in fiery splendour, and made the whole scene appear as 
 if ready to burst forth with flame. The atmosphere of 
 the night was fearful, and one could hardly think of 
 continued life until the morning. The thinnest night- 
 dresses seemed too heavy for coverings ; and as for 
 sheets, or quilts, they were discarded by all. 
 
 Thurs.j Oct. 25. — Several islands on the right. 
 Our passage between the coasts narrowed itself quickly ; 
 and now we were in the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, at 
 the south-eastern neck of the Bed Sea. This was 
 known to be the most perilous passage in our course ; 
 
PASSAGE DOWN THE RED SEA. 61 
 
 and it was no relief to be told that if tlie ship were to 
 founder upon any of the shoals of that part^ and the 
 passengers Tvere to make their way to the coast on 
 either side, death or slavery would be their inevitable 
 doom. Rain fell, so that we could not see our way ; 
 and as Arab pilots steer by sight principally, our 
 steamer stopped her engines for a considerable time, 
 and remained stationary. The moistness of the heated 
 atmosphere below steamed as in a scullery ; and we had 
 to lie on the cabin floor for as much air as could be 
 obtained. 
 
 Frid., Oct. 26. — A fresh breeze sprang up, and in 
 some degree moderated the heat. Rain fell copiously, 
 and the weather became rough, and even boisterous. 
 We had passed in the night Mooshedjerah, where the 
 *' Alma ^^ was wrecked in 1859. Some of the pas- 
 sengers of that ill-fated vessel were with us, and made 
 us shudder with the recital of their privations and 
 sufierings. Late in the evening the high, conical peaks 
 of Aden frowned upon us; and before midnight we 
 had anchored in the harbour, to remain there, for a 
 fresh supply of coals, until noon of the next day. 
 Solemn darkness shrouded the scene, and the points 
 of light gleaming in different directions on sea and 
 shore, with the wild screaming of unseen natives in 
 unseen boats around, rendered our position mysteriously 
 impressive. 
 
 Sat., Oct. 27. — On deck early to see the scenery and 
 the natives. The volcanic region of Aden looked grim 
 and grand. It has been aptly described by Sir Charles 
 Napier as " a gigantic cinder ; ^' and consists of high 
 conical scorched hills, without a particle of verdure 
 on any portion of them. One large sugar-loaf moun- 
 
 G 
 
62 ADEN. 
 
 tain is covered with loose shingle as black as coal. 
 A mass of high jagged peaks of lighter colour, broken 
 down in parts, and looking like the shattered crust of 
 an old exploded crater, assumes the form of a walled- 
 up fortification ; and this appearance is strengthened 
 by a signal-flag being placed upon it. Between two 
 of these conical elevations are coal- stores for the 
 steamers. The post office, shops, and stores, are near 
 the water's edge, while above and beyond are rugged 
 hills and heaps with buildings and sheds upon them 
 scattered here and there. The British flag, on a mast 
 of great height, is beheld on one of the hills near the 
 shore. Several British ships of war are kept here. 
 
 On the narrow roads by the beach, at the foot of 
 the surrounding hills, were seen stalking camels with 
 their burdens, and asses, with boy drivers. Boats of 
 all shapes and sizes were being rowed towards us by 
 wild black men, almost naked, and their heads covered 
 and surrounded with matted and stringed red hair, 
 as bulgy and hive-hke in form as the immense head- 
 coverings of the cannibal Fijians. They jabbered and 
 gesticulated most violently : and they leaped into the 
 water and dived down to amazing depths after money 
 thrown to them, notwithstanding the numerous fierce 
 sharks which frequent the harbour. They brought for 
 sale beautiful pieces of coral, broken from the reefs 
 under water, and picturesque baskets with coverlids, 
 tastefully striped and ingeniously interwrought with 
 white, red, and black bamboo. Greasy clad Arab Jews, 
 who stank of dirt, and cleanly respectable-looking Par- 
 sees, said to have the best commerce of the place, came 
 on board, with black and white ostrich feathers, Indian- 
 wrought boxes, and tortoiseshell curiosities, and pre- 
 
ADEN. 63 
 
 vailed on passengers to make purchases at prices for 
 their articles far above those of London or Paris. 
 Huge barges, laden with bags of coal for our steamer, 
 were drawn by ropes towards us, surrounded and sur^ 
 mounted with crowds of natives, powdered thickly with 
 coal-dust, and looking, in the distance, like swarms 
 of baboons, or large monkeys. The Arabs all were 
 abjectly civil to us, hoping to receive money recom- 
 pence for being so ; but it is well known that if a 
 European advance beyond the British boundary into 
 their own region, his life is unrelentingly taken by these 
 red-haired descendants of Ishmael. They are exceed- 
 ingly jealous of the English having any foothold in 
 their arid country, and think it is only by the special 
 favour of the Turkish Sultan we are allowed to enter 
 the bay, or to hold the garrison of Aden; believing 
 him to be the supreme ruler among men. I remained, 
 and sketched Aden, while most of our passengers went 
 on shore, and then set scampering off on hired don- 
 keys to the cantonment, or principal township, 
 some three miles away round the hills behind us. 
 On returning, they told strange things of the bamboo- 
 built houses and bazaars of the town ; and seemed 
 to have been much interested with the commanding 
 fortifications of the garrison. Aden is another impor- 
 tant link in the chain of British possessions stretch- 
 ing onwards towards India, and has been fitly described 
 as " the Gibraltar of the East.^^ We had finished 
 " coaling '' by two o'clock ; and as we ran out swiftly to 
 sea, our steamship bore, in passing, upon the outstanding 
 bowsprit of a large ship, and snapped it in a moment, 
 as if it had been a brittle carrot. We saw, as we 
 left the harbour, the Arabian desert on our right, 
 
 G 2 
 
64 MONSOONS. 
 
 with its bald, rocky mountains and vast plains of 
 sand, all reeking in the white heat. A fine breeze 
 filled our sails and quickened our speed ; and we had 
 a most favourable passage out towards the Indian 
 Ocean. 
 
 Sun., Oct. 28. — A fine morning, and the fishes sport- 
 ing in " a sea of glass like unto crystal.''^ The vast ex- 
 panse of water shone like a polished mirror, under the 
 pure blue sky, and seemed, in the language of Byron, 
 to " glass the Almighty's form " all around us ! It 
 appeared the shining image of His immensity ! We 
 had service in the saloon as usual. 
 
 Mon., Oct. 29. — Passed Cape Guardafui, and then 
 the Island of Socotra. Sunset was gorgeous. 
 
 Tues., Oct. 30. — Serene, calm morning, with a bright 
 silvery light. No land anywhere in sight. Flying 
 fishes leaping out of the water, gliding in the air a 
 considerable distance, and then dipping again into 
 the sea. 
 
 Wed., Oct. 31. — Another calm morning; but clouds 
 gathered in the afternoon, and rain fell in heavy heaps 
 and torrents; so that we could not remain on deck 
 without being wet through. And when driven down 
 into the saloon, it seemed as if a deluge of waters was 
 falling in lumps upon the deck overhead. The weighty 
 falls of rain actually made our steamer stagger again 
 and tremble. It was difficult to conceive how the 
 vacuities produced in the African and Arabian deserts 
 by the swallowing-up heat of the sun could so disturb 
 the atmosphere at such a distance over the sea, and 
 cause such descending torrents of waters. 
 
 Thurs., Nov. 1.- — Monsoons continued. Rains fell 
 very heavily, and hindered us greatly in our course. 
 
CEYLON. 65 
 
 Frid.f Nov. 2. — Fine^ fresh morning. Sea calm, and 
 in colour rich ultramarine. Good speed of eleven knots 
 per hour. 
 
 Sat., Nov. 3. — Monsoons in the morning; but they 
 cleared off by noon, and the remainder of the day was fine. 
 
 Sun., Nov. 4. — Exceedingly warm. Divine service 
 on deck, under the awning. The scene was deeply 
 impressive, and our singing seemed to ring upon the 
 vast expanse of the Indian Ocean. At noon it was 
 reported that we were two hundred and fifty miles from 
 Point de Galle, in Ceylon. 
 
 Mon.y Nov. 5. — Brisk, fresh morning, but not able to 
 reach Galle to enter the harbour before sunset; so 
 slackened our speed, that we might ride safely for the 
 night outside the dangerously projecting reefs. Awoke 
 in the night, and saw huge black rats in the cabin ; so 
 got no more sleep, though I left my berth on the floor, 
 and climbed up into a higher one — having an instinctive 
 horror of rats. 
 
 Tues., Nov.- 6. — Reached Point de Galle by six in the 
 morning. The harbour picturesque and impressive. We 
 made our way round fortified rocks, and amidst coral 
 reefs, to the principal basin of the harbour, from whence 
 we had to land in small boats. The sea was as blue as 
 sapphire, and broke with white foam upon the rocks and 
 strand, and the rich green palm trees bent their lofty 
 forms inwards, and overshadowed the water in every 
 direction ; while over them in the distance were nume- 
 rous blue and purple hills of every variety of form. 
 Several vessels and steamships were lying around us ; 
 some with French troops on board, going to China ; and 
 in front of us, near the shore, rose out of the water the 
 upper masts of a ship recently foundered there. The 
 
 G 3 
 
66 NATIVE SCHOOLS. 
 
 Hev. John Scott, our missionary, came on board. We 
 obtained a boat, and landed in Ceylon by eight. The 
 scene on the pier was strange to us. The natives, who 
 crowded around, were, for the most part, upright, well- 
 made figures of rich bronze colour, with jet black hair, 
 turned up before and behind, and fixed in a coil at the 
 top of the head with large tortoiseshell combs. They 
 were unclad to the loins, where they wore a wrapper 
 of white and coloured cotton, which hung down to their 
 naked feet, like a long petticoat. They had little or no 
 beards, or hair of any kind upon the face; and, with 
 earrings dangling on many of them, they had a very 
 effeminate appearance. In fact, we took them all, at 
 first, to be women ! We passed quickly through the 
 Custom-house, and drove up in a cab-like carriage, 
 having Venetian blinds, accommodated at will to the 
 direction of the sun, to " Richmond Hill," — as the 
 Rev. Joseph Rippon named it, — where our spacious 
 IMission premises stand, surrounded with very striking 
 scenery. Cocoa-nut trees, jungle, and pleasant hills 
 were in our neighbourhood, and richly clothed hills, 
 with the conical mountain of Adam's Peak beyond, were 
 in the distance. We could see heathen temples on 
 several of the elevations around us, and could hear the 
 tom-toms of numerous devil-worshippers. Indeed, on 
 our passage from the beach to the Mission premises we 
 had met several processions of Buddhists, with their 
 dresses and discordant music. 
 
 After breakfast went to the Mission school on the 
 hill, — a good building, shaded by verandahs all round. 
 Found there a native minister and a native schoolmaster, 
 with some sixty Singhalese children, who were taught 
 to read and speak English as well as their own Ian- 
 
MATURA. 67 
 
 guage. Heard some of the boys read a lesson on astro- 
 nomy ; then examined them on their conceptions of 
 God, who made the heavens, and on what they knew 
 of the way of salvation. Their understanding of Divine 
 things, as well as their general intelligence, was most 
 gratifying. In the evening preached to a native con- 
 gregation, through an interpreter, our excellent native 
 minister. Rev. G. E. Goonewardene. The assembly was 
 novel and impressive. The women in their white dresses, 
 the higher class men with combs in their hair, the Dutch 
 burghers, with the solemn darkness open to us from the 
 verandah around, were all Rembrandtic in effect. 
 
 Wed., Nov. 7. — Went to Matura, driving through the 
 Fort of Galle, which, apart from the barracks and 
 Government buildings, is but a large village of mud 
 streets and squat houses. As we passed through the 
 town, the natives strove to tempt us into purchases of 
 their tortoiseshell ornaments, mock precious stones, and 
 lacquered jewelry. We saw in the streets much variety 
 of race and costume. There were European officials in 
 loose clothing, covering themselves with large cotton 
 umbrellas ; there were Singhalese natives, clothed as I 
 have described ; and the women, some of them prema- 
 turely old and very ugly, in white jackets : there were 
 Moors and Mussulmen in turbans and yellow coverings, 
 carrying japanned paper umbrellas : there were Malabars 
 and Malays, and Buddhist priests with shaven heads 
 and saffron robes ; and mingled with these were English 
 soldiers in cotton uniform, and native chiefs in gay, 
 embroidered dresses, and jewelled ornaments. On 
 quitting the town, we skirted along the side of the 
 harbour, passed by the crowded market-places, and 
 entered a splendid avenue of tall cocoa-nut trees, over- 
 
68 ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE LIFE. 
 
 arching the road, and rendering it pleasantly cool. The 
 natives, like living bronzes, and in their pink, yellow, 
 red, blue, and white costumes, thronged the road, and 
 blending with the green foliage, formed a gay and 
 pleasing picture. We saw many long snakes in our 
 way, and several cameleons. Sometimes the guano — a 
 large, green lizard, three or four feet long : a pre- 
 adamite looking reptile, but little afraid of man — ran 
 across our way, or dragged up its length on the banks 
 at the roadside. There were beautiful openings of the 
 sea-coast at intervals, with masses of snow-white coral 
 strewing the shore. As we advanced, innumerable in- 
 sects of various kinds thronged the air, and filled it with 
 a perpetual hum. Among these were large, gorgeous 
 butterflies, and huge dragon-flies, of bright metallic 
 lustre ; while ever and anon would come, booming 
 on their short wings, lustrous beetles of rainbow 
 hues. The dark natives were turning their cocoa-nut 
 mills under shady trees, at the sides of the road, 
 or working in the open "paddies'^ or rice-fields. 
 Long, slender cranes were standing in pools, and 
 buffaloes, like huge black pigs, were luxuriating in 
 deep soft mud. Gay flowers, of bright yellow and deep 
 crimson, on trees, and not on mere bushes, lined the 
 way; and a vast variety of orchids climbed the boles of 
 the palms, and entwined themselves gracefully around 
 them. Trees with roots above ground, — seeming formed 
 of writhing snakes, — were seen at intervals ; as also the 
 drooping banyan tree, with its long, rope-like roots 
 descending from its branches. We passed the gigantic 
 figure of "Kustia Raja,^' an Indian prince, who is 
 said, by tradition, to have first taught the Singhalese 
 the culture of the cocoa-nut. It is carved out of the 
 
BUDDHIST TEMPLES. 69 
 
 rock by the wayside. We readied Belligam in the 
 forenoon, when the heat had become very oppressive, 
 when the hum of insects had ceased, and all living 
 things had retired for rest into the shade. At Belligam 
 there is a " Rest-house/^ provided by the Government 
 for travellers, — as there is at certain distances on all 
 the high roads of Ceylon. In these " Rest-houses ^' 
 needful refreshment can be had at appointed prices. 
 While the ladies reclined under the shade, and breakfast 
 was being prepared, Mr. Scott and I went forth to see 
 the village, our chapel and school in it, and some 
 Buddhist temples. 
 
 The village of Belligam, like other villages of Ceylon, 
 is picturesque and pleasing, with its luxuriant foliage 
 overhanging mud-built dwellings, thatched with the 
 feather-like branches of cocoa-nuts. We went down a 
 lane or street, overshadowed by cocoa-nuts, in which 
 we found our native school and our native chapel. The 
 children were few in the school, for dysentery had thin- 
 ned them ; no uncommon thing in the schools of the 
 island. I sketched the chapel by the roadside. We 
 saw a somewhat rude Buddhist temple, as we passed, 
 with its tall dome covering some pretended relics ; but 
 at a distance of some quarter of a mile over the fields, 
 in the direction of Galle, we visited a celebrated temple, 
 and examined it carefully. Ascending by broad steps, 
 we reach a large, elevated court-yard, surrounded by an 
 embattled wall, skirted by cocoa-nuts. As we enter, 
 there is a large Bo, or sacred tree on the left, over- 
 shadowing the seat or surrounding platform, built up 
 with its roots, which are above ground. A high, sugar- 
 loaf structure encloses some reported relics of Buddhu, 
 named the Dogeba. Within is a tall, niched flower- 
 
70 BUDDHIST TEMPLES. 
 
 altar ; and in the middle, on the far side of the court, is 
 the temple — a common Italian-tiled building. You 
 find yourself now in the very " chambers of imagery/' 
 gaudily coloured with yellow figures illustrative of the 
 life of Buddhu, and with rude, purgatorial exhibitions 
 of punishments for the unfaithful. Within the inner 
 chamber there reclines at full length the yellow- coloured 
 figure of Buddhu, eighteen cubits, or twenty- seven feet, 
 long, in somewhat rude wooden workmanship. At the 
 sides are vermilion and gold coloured figures of Buddhu 
 and Vishnu, of human stature. Before these are tables, 
 or altars, with flower- offerings upon them, fresh plucked 
 in the day, and placed there by poor, deluded votaries. 
 Some were there at the time, presenting their flowers ; 
 and as I stood in the midst within a heathen temple for 
 the first time in my life, a shuddering horror came over 
 me. I felt no patience with the yellow-robed priests 
 about me ; they seemed ministers in the very precincts 
 of hell. Adjoining the court are the dwellings of the 
 priests, who constitute a college or ecclesiastical estab- 
 lishment of Buddhu. We silently paced our way back 
 to the " Best-house," and felt a grateful relief in gazing 
 upon the fine open bay, with its coral strand. 
 
 Resumed our drive to Matura at four. There were 
 lovely openings to the sea on our right. Our road was 
 a deep chocolate, darker than the soil, and harmonized 
 pleasantly with the green luxuriant foliage. Sometimes 
 we passed through cuttings of the rocks, and then 
 caught glimpses of well-moulded hills covered with 
 lofty trees and shrubbery, and resembling the " Green 
 Mountains," in the Northern States of America. 
 Again and again, we passed through long avenues of 
 tall cocoa-nut trees, bending over crowds of native 
 
DRESS OF THE SINGHALESE. 71 
 
 pedestrians in their many-coloured costumes. At 
 intervals all along the road, in front of the native huts, 
 were fine plump children playing — boys and girls, full 
 of quirk and fun as Reynolds's Puck. The girls had 
 bracelets of a white shining metal around their wrists 
 and ankles, and sometimes around their loins : other- 
 wise they were perfectly nude. The faces of men and 
 women upon the road were often not so pleasing, owing 
 to their chewing a composition of tobacco with a sort 
 of white paste, wrapped up in a green leaf. Through 
 pressure in the mouth a red liquid is produced, and 
 this gives a bloody appearance to it, and destroys the 
 teeth. In other respects the natives were cleanly and 
 decently clad. We met and saw, towards the end of 
 our day's journey upon the road, several bullock- 
 waggons, vehicles covered with cocoa-nut leaves, after 
 the manner of an English carrier's tilted cart, but 
 lower, narrower, and larger in proportion. They were 
 each drawn by two oxen of small size. In some 
 instances we met a carriage for one or two persons, 
 drawn by one small bullock of surpassing speed. We 
 reached Matura soon after five o'clock ; Mr. Eaton 
 having sent us a pony carriage, attended by a native 
 runner in gay costume. Our native minister, Daniel 
 Henry Pereira, received us very hospitably. We were 
 delighted with the fine, spacious Mission premises. 
 But as we sat at our eastern dinner served up in 
 native fashion, in a verandah open to the garden and 
 broad river beyond, with the dim lamps swinging over 
 our heads, and the native servitors gliding in stealthily, 
 out of the dusk, from among the clumps of palm trees, we 
 were a little startled to hear that there were large deadly 
 snakes in the garden beneath our feet, and that in 
 
72 DONDRA HEAD. 
 
 the river at the bottom of it, but a few yards distant, 
 the savage combats of huge alhgators, and the snapping 
 of their fell teeth, were often heard ! It was a more 
 pleasing subject of reflection, that on these Mission- 
 premises had resided brave pioneers of Christian truth 
 who have since gone to their eternal reward. 
 
 Thurs., Nov. 8. — We journeyed from Matura to 
 Dondra, along a good road by the sea- side for a few 
 miles, and reached the house of the native missionary. 
 He was from home, among his people; so we drove 
 round to Dondra Head, the extreme south point of 
 Ceylon. A long avenue of cocoa-nut palms conducted 
 us to a line of square pillars, each eight or nine feet 
 high, extending from a Hindu temple, the remains of 
 which are still standing here by the sea. The remains 
 of this temple show that it has been originally for 
 Hindu, and not Buddhist, worship. It has had a 
 central way, with side-aisles formed of upright pillars, 
 and has extended as much as two miles in length. 
 At the upper part, most distant from the sea, there 
 has been a sort of transept, or cross, formed by similar 
 pillars ; and beyond this there is still standing in front 
 of the temple ground a curious old gateway, covered 
 with sculptured Hindu figures and ornaments. The 
 rest of the original temple is gone ; but a plain modern 
 building has been put up; and at certain festivals 
 Hindu worshippers repair to it from afar, and make 
 much noise and show around it, as a most sacred 
 place. There are mounds and pillars in the court- 
 yard, and in front is a very old stone with an inscrip- 
 tion upon it in a learned language, which few can read. 
 The pillars, gate, and stone, are of grey granite. At 
 the left corner of the old court is a Buddhist temple. 
 
DONDRA HEAD. 73 
 
 made up in parts of the figures and fragments taken 
 from the Hindu temple. The scene from the rocks 
 and boulders in the sea, at the extreme south of the 
 island, that is, at Dondra Head, is very beautiful. 
 Coral reefs stretch far into the sea, against which the 
 pure blue water foams and splashes. Palms crown the 
 shores down to the edge of the island, and border it 
 most gracefully ; while beyond, inwards, are forest and 
 jungle, grand in colour, and in their vast extent. The 
 natives came out of their huts, and gazed curiously 
 upon me, as I sketched these things ; and seemed filled 
 with wonder as they saw their familiar scenery copied 
 and coloured before them. We returned to the native 
 minister's house, who, with his newly- converted sister 
 residing with him, gave us a cheerful welcome. We 
 went into the school-room, just by, and killed there a 
 centipede on the floor. The missionary told us that 
 cobras and the most deadly serpents were numerous in 
 the neighbourhood; that leopards were seen at times 
 in the adjoining jungle, where there were also troops 
 of monkeys, and plenty of paroquets. On the coral 
 shore of the sea before us the turtle is taken in 
 abundance. 
 
 We conversed at length upon the state of the Mission 
 in that part, found that it had been injured by extreme 
 jealousy of demon worship on the part of one of our 
 agents ; and, after giving counsel on the matter, we 
 returned to Matura. On our way we climbed " Brown's 
 Hill,'' on the left, and had a fine panorama of the 
 surrounding country and of the sea. Descending, we 
 visited another Buddhist temple, ruder and more 
 modern than the one at Belligam, and which has 
 adjoining a temporary wooden erection for festivals. 
 
 H 
 
74 MARRIAGE PROCESSION. 
 
 Reached Matura as the sun was setting in solemn 
 grandeur behind the large dark trees. We took a 
 boat at the bridge, and were rowed to the garden of 
 the Mission-premises in time for evening service in the 
 chapel. The building could not contain the congrega- 
 tion, composed of English residents, Dutch burghers, 
 and Singhalese ; and there were many outside in the 
 verandah and in the street. The audience seemed to 
 enter very heartily into the spirit of worship, notwith- 
 standing the most soaking heat and the musquitoes. 
 
 Fr d., Nov, 9. — Returned to Belligam ; met there 
 our native Catechist, and conversed with him on his 
 work. He is all but alone as a Christian teacher in 
 the village ; and related to me several instances of the 
 cunning of the Buddhist priests to keep the people 
 from him. He preaches in the chapel, teaches daily 
 in the school, and visits the natives in their houses. 
 Some, but not many, treat him with ridicule ; and the 
 priests set watchers against the chapel, to see who 
 enter it, and then to injure such in their temporal 
 circumstances. On leaving Belligam we overtook a 
 marriage procession. The bride was borne in one of 
 three palanquins in front, and at some distance behind 
 was the bridegroom. The woman was attended by a 
 crowd of native females gaily dressed ; and the man by ^ 
 his male friends, dressed up in blue European-looking 
 coats, gilt buttons, breast belts, and swords. The 
 bridegroom had more ornaments than the others. On 
 the road we also saw natives at work under the trees 
 and elsewhere, breaking up cocoa-nut, drying it in 
 the open air, and pressing out the oil in rude mills 
 turned as on the pivot-cup by oxen or men. We 
 reached Richmond Hill by half-past five, and had a 
 
WELCOME TEA-MEETING. 75 
 
 welcome tea-meeting in the school-room at six. This 
 tea-meeting had been spontaneously provided by the 
 natives for Mrs. Jobsou and myself, as an expression 
 of their esteem for us and for the churches from which 
 we had come. The room was most tastefully deco- 
 rated with various flowers and fruits of the island, as 
 well as with emblematic figures and forms suited to 
 the occasion. The company filled the place. Around 
 us, at the upper end, sat native women in clean white 
 and gay coloured dresses, and adorned with ear-rings 
 and bracelets. Beyond them sat native men, with 
 large combs upon their heads ; and among them were 
 Dutch burghers, clad in loose European style ; while, 
 in the verandah encircling the building, the native 
 children of the schools were crowded, and peered at 
 us with their sharp black eyes. The room was lighted 
 by lamps swung from the rafters of the open roof; and 
 beyond it was the solemn darkness of the forest and 
 the jungle. The tea and cakes were good, and were 
 most courteously handed round by natives who were 
 officers in our Wesleyan Society. "We sang and prayed 
 together ; and afterwards I addressed them on the 
 social character of Christianity, and on what British 
 Methodists from whom I had come wished them to be, 
 as professing members of the church of Christ in 
 Ceylon. It was a cheerful, happy meeting, and I trust 
 not without profit to any of us. The excitement of the 
 evening prevented sleep, and we lay through the night 
 on our bed at the Mission-house listening to the chirping 
 of numerous lizards from the open roof above us. 
 
 kSat., Nov, 10. — Took coach for Colombo at five 
 in the morning, amidst profound darkness, and here 
 first saw the beautiful constellation of the Cross in the 
 ; H 2 
 
76 ROAD-SCENERY. 
 
 heavens. For some time we could not see who were 
 our companions in the coach ; but as the day opened, we 
 discovered we had before us a native of high class, wear- 
 ing a full Moslem turban, a crimson vest, and a large 
 signet-ring. Before this, we had found to our annoy- 
 ance, that he was strongly scented with cocoa-nut oil. 
 By his side sat a dark-looking Dutch burgher, in a sort 
 of settler^s loose dress. An Englishman and a native 
 were with the burgher coachman on the box; and a 
 native guard hung on behind, or rode upon the step at 
 the side. The horses were rather small; but, being 
 stallions, were usually restive and ungovernable at 
 starting. Our road throughout was deeply interesting. 
 For good part of seventy miles it was in an avenue of 
 lofty palms, which, at the first, solemnly overshadowed 
 us. As we proceeded, we perceived fires by huts, where 
 the natives were cooking their breakfasts, gleaming out 
 in the distance from among dark cocoa-nut trees. As 
 the day dawned, fine underwood and creepers, and beau- 
 tiful flowers, and banyan trees with branches returning 
 to the earth and taking root, graced our road on either 
 side. Several times we crossed creeks and rivers on 
 wooden bridges ; and saw on the water curious canoes 
 having no iron-work in them, but bound together 
 wholly by cocoa-nut fibres; and yet in these the 
 native fishermen venture far out into the sea. Some 
 of the coves and bays in the coast on our left were 
 very fine ; and amidst bold, rocky scenery we came 
 upon a large Buddhist temple with a dome. The 
 shaven priest stood with his broad fan before his eyes, 
 as if he would have us believe him to be a strict 
 observer of the rule, — "not to look upon a woman.^* 
 The lofty Adam^s Peak was seen at a distance on our 
 
ROAD-SCENERY. 77 
 
 right. It seemed to be buttressed and upheld by 
 numerous surrounding mountains. We breakfasted 
 at Bentotto_, on oyster currie and fish ; and there 
 first observed J what we afterwards found to be almost 
 universal^ that the telegraph wire was fastened to the 
 living cocoa-nut trees, as its supporters along the road. 
 We turned a little from the sea- shore on leaving 
 BentottOj passed through Caltura and came to Mo- 
 rotto, a village of twelve thousand inhabitants, who 
 are chiefly carpenters and fishermen. Here I saw our 
 native minister, and engaged to preach in his chapel 
 the next Sunday morning. On our way dancing gay 
 butterflies, and metallic-lustred insects had swarmed 
 around us. Birds of gaudy plumage had chattered 
 and sung among the branches, and many bright 
 green lizards had crawled over the road and up the 
 trees. Indeed, until we approached the noon of day, 
 all nature seemed to teem with life. Our road from 
 Morotto lay through the cinnamon grounds for the 
 space of several miles ; but the air was not at this- 
 period loaded with the perfume of this renowned laurel 
 so richly as we had been led to expect. After passing 
 under an old venerable banyan-tree, which overarches 
 the entire breadth of the road, and drops its roots into 
 the earth on the other side, we reached Mr. DalzieFs, 
 the police magistrate at Colpetty, two miles from 
 Colombo, the capital and seat of government in 
 Ceylon. We were kindly and hospitably received ; 
 and in the evening were surrounded by friends and 
 ministers of difi*erent denominations. Sadness had 
 been brought over many minds by the untimely death 
 of a respected clergyman of the neighbourhood, who 
 had that day been killed by the falling of a wall upon 
 
 H 3 
 
78 PREACHING TO THE SINGHALESE. 
 
 him, on his own premises ; but we sought to improve the 
 event by serious conversation, and by speaking to each 
 other on the state of religion in the island of Ceylon. 
 
 Sun.f Nov. 11. — Preached at Morotto in the morn- 
 ing to a Singhalese congregation, through an inter- 
 preter. Our chapel here is a new structure compara- 
 tively ; and, with its pointed arches, gables, buttresses, 
 and pinnacles, is as good Gothic as many of the 
 churches and chapels in England. It is seventy-two 
 feet long, forty-two feet wide ; and cost some four 
 hundred pounds. The central roof of the nave is sup- 
 ported by rows of lofty columns. Towards its erection 
 the natives had contributed liberally; and one man 
 in humble circumstances was pointed out to me as 
 having at very great sacrifice contributed as much as 
 twenty pounds. The congregation filled the building. 
 The men were in their native costumes, clean and neat, 
 and some of them with high combs in their hair; and 
 the women were dressed in white and flowered cottons, 
 muslins, and silks, with bracelets, necklaces, and ear- 
 rings. Our native minister here read Wesley^s Abridg- 
 ment of the Liturgy, and the entire congregation 
 responded earnestly. After the singing of a Methodist 
 hymn in an English tune, I preached, by interpretation, 
 on the Mercies of the Lord, and saw several moved 
 with devout feeling under the truth. At the close of 
 the service multitudes gathered round me, looking as 
 if wishful to know whether they might shake hands 
 with me or not. I greeted them fraternally, and 
 delivered to them Christian salutations from my 
 brethren and people in England. The dark, serious 
 faces of the Singhalese men beamed with pleasure, 
 and several of the women laughed out, like children, 
 
NATIVE MINISTRY. 79 
 
 with joy. Peter Gerhardt de Zylva, our native minis- 
 ter at Morotto, is a good example of what may be 
 expected by the church from Singhalese preachers and 
 pastors, under proper direction and training. He has 
 been labouring with his dark flock for many years; 
 and though it has been divided again and again, and 
 considerable numbers have been given to the charge of 
 other native ministers, yet he has still in his Circuit, 
 of Morotto and the neighbourhood, three hundred 
 and twenty-seven fully accredited church members 
 under his pastoral care. In the surrounding parts, he 
 has several chapels, or preaching bungalows, as well as 
 schools, which he regularly visits; and, perhaps, on 
 the whole, has as flourishing native churches under his 
 care as can be found under any minister of his class 
 in India or in Ceylon. He is somewhat worn by his 
 labours ; but his grey hairs are a crown of glory to him 
 in his old age ; and he is venerated and beloved as a 
 father by his people. He related to me, as we walked 
 together after the service under the cocoa-nut trees, 
 several deeply-interesting instances of the conversion 
 of Buddhists and Buddhist priests which he had wit- 
 nessed, and told me of the difficulties and triumphs 
 of his work. I was sorry to learn from him, and from 
 others of our native teachers, that high ecclesiasticisra 
 had of late cruelly sought to disturb native converts by 
 the introduction among them of foolish questions on 
 priestly authority, and the validity of the sacraments. 
 In the evening I preached in the large Wesleyan chapel 
 at Colombo to a crowded congregation of different 
 denominations. ^ 
 
 Mon., Nov. 12. — Spent the day with the Rev. Daniel 
 John Gogerly, general superintendent of our Missions 
 
80 MR. GOGERLY. 
 
 in that part of Ceylon^ and who resides at Colpetty, 
 a suburb of Colombo. He is a " noticeable man, with 
 grey eyes," as Hazlitt, in his boyhood, remarked of 
 Coleridge ; and much resembles, both in face and figure, 
 the portraits given us of that "dreamer." But Mr. 
 Gogerly is most successfully active, both in learning 
 and in practical life. He is acknowledged to be the best 
 Singhalese scholar on the island ; and, while preaching 
 several times a week to the natives in their own lan- 
 guage, and superintending the Singhalese press for the 
 most important books of all kinds, he has most carefully 
 instructed and trained many of the native ministers and 
 catechists employed in the seventeen circuits spread 
 over the south-west parts of Ceylon. He has thoroughly 
 studied the works of Buddhu, and has mastered the 
 system of Buddhism, as far as it can be comprehended 
 with its numerous inconsistencies. He showed me, 
 with evident delight, a complete copy of the works of 
 Buddhu, which had been made for him by an intelligent 
 and learned Buddhist priest, belonging to one of the 
 chief temples ; and out of which he refutes the advocates 
 of the atheistical system, from their own standards. He 
 explained the system of Buddhu to me, and showed me 
 its contradictions in scientific teaching, and its imposi- 
 tions upon the deluded Buddhist worshippers. He also 
 showed me his quarterly returns of the missionary work 
 under his care. They are kept in the most exact order ; 
 and he is minutely and regularly informed of what the 
 several agents for Methodism are doing in the island. 
 He took me to the Printing Establishment at Colombo; 
 and showed me, on the premises first obtained by our 
 brave pioneer Missionaries, — Clough, Harvard, Squance, 
 and others, — native printers at work in their dif- 
 
COLOMBO. 81 
 
 ferent departments upon the Singhalese Scriptures 
 and school-books which he was then superintend- 
 ing. He is now seventy years of age, and is anxious 
 that some English minister should be prepared for his 
 place. 
 
 Colombo is not in itself attractive, though its zig-zag 
 batteries, ponderous draw-bridges, weather-beaten gates, 
 and picturesque openings towards the rocky headland, 
 and the bay, render it impressive from some points 
 of view. The buildings within the Fort are principally 
 occupied by Government and military officers, and, 
 though of good form and style, are too English for a 
 tropical climate. The natives of various classes^ such 
 as the Singhalese, Tamils, Moors, and Malays, have 
 their lowly dwellings immediately outside the walls; 
 while the British whose residences are not provided for 
 them by Government, live in the open suburbs over- 
 looking the bay, among the cocoa-nut shades by the 
 shore in the beautiful hamlet of Colpetty, or in the 
 sweet-scented cinnamon grounds beyond. Their houses, 
 or mansions, (as some of them may be called,) are mostly 
 but one story high, and are widely spread over the 
 ground, with broad verandahs, which extensively over- 
 shadow the inner apartments, and screen them from the 
 heat of the sun. They are floored with brick tiles, 
 have their doors and windows framed after the Venetian 
 model, and with the wafted air under the Indian 
 punkah are made deliciously pleasant and cool. Life 
 in these dwellings is cheerful and even sumptuous ; and 
 as happy companionship is found in them as in any 
 English home within our own land. So we found it in 
 the tasteful abode of our kind host and hostess, Mr. 
 
82 COLOMBO. 
 
 and Mrs. Dalziel, and in the evening conversations we 
 held with them and their intelligent neighbours and 
 friends. Mr. Ferguson, the able and energetic pro- 
 prietor and editor of the principal newspaper at 
 Colombo, gave us much information on the island and 
 its inhabitants; and our friend Mr. Dalziel related 
 to us strange and amusing things witnessed by him in 
 courts and trials, where known Buddhists not unfre- 
 quently forswear themselves Christians, in order to be 
 deemed more reliable in evidence they give relating to 
 their own interests. This abuse of Christianity is 
 traceable, in a considerable degree, to the Dutch and 
 Portuguese Governments in Ceylon, which made religion 
 a political engine, rather than a means of moral and 
 spiritual instruction for the people. There is a delight- 
 ful promenade by the sea shore, between the Fort and 
 Colpetty ; and the grounds, lake, and scenery within are 
 charming. Colombo has several streets crossing each 
 other at right angles, and in it there are some good 
 public buildings. We went to the sheds and large 
 fodder-yards of the Government elephants ; but we only 
 saw one there, and that was young and small. The others 
 were out at public works. We learned that the number 
 of these animals in the island is much reduced, and that 
 the herds of them which remain are principally in the 
 mountainous regions of the interior, most removed from 
 the presence and reach of man. 
 
 Tues., Nov. 13. — Rose at half-past three, a.m., and at 
 five left Colombo by coach for Kandy. Our way at first 
 lay through low streets, then over a bridge of boats, 
 then through an avenue of cocoa-nut trees. We passed 
 many bullock -waggons belonging to Government, and a 
 
KANDY, 83 
 
 dark, ponderous elephant, working on the road. After 
 a time the coiintry became more hilly, with large, 
 heaved-up rocks clothed in rich verdure. The bullock- 
 waggons were drawn by larger animals, white in colour, 
 brought from the coast of India ; and the scenery, as we 
 advanced, became increasingly picturesque and roman- 
 tic, combining many of the best features of Matlock, in 
 Derbyshire. We breakfasted at Ambepusse, and the 
 hills became sterner and larger as we proceeded. Soon 
 after noontide we entered passes in the mountains^ 
 composed of huge rocks, piled up in fantastic forms, 
 the trees wrapping their roots around them. High 
 above the hills there was rich and various verdure; 
 down below were deep, tremendous precipices, with here 
 and there a glimpse of bright pea-green, from the 
 " paddies,^^ or rice fields. Reached Kandy at half-past 
 three, p.m. ; was met by the Eev. Mr. Hobbs, Church 
 Missionary, and Superintendent of the Mission to the 
 Tamils ; accompanied him to his lovely residence above 
 the lake, where we had the most kind and fraternal 
 entertainment. 
 
 Wed., Nov. 14. — At seven in the morning went with 
 Mr. Hobbs to Arthur^ s Seat, to view the scenery of 
 Kandy and the surrounding country. It was exceed- 
 ingly fine. At the foot of the hill on which we stood is 
 a large, square lake, with the Government magazine for 
 gunpowder in the centre. Beyond it rose the domes 
 of the celebrated temple of Buddhu; and over these 
 the Governor's house, with the streets, churches, and 
 public buildings of the city. Then, around all, were 
 blue, swelling hills, with fine, bold outlines ; and all were 
 reflected in the deep, glassy lake below as clearly as 
 Helvellyn and Catchiedecam are reflected in Ulleswater. 
 In the forenoon we went to the temple grounds and 
 
84 BUDDHU's FOOT. 
 
 grove, and saw the huge impression, in granite, of 
 Buddhu^s foot, as copied from the indentation on the 
 summit of Adam^s Peak, — the sacred relic for which 
 Buddhists make long pilgrimages from different parts 
 of the east, but which is the object of conflicting 
 claims by the Brahmans as the footprint of Siva, by the 
 Chinese of Foe, by the Mohamedans of Adam, and by 
 the Roman Catholics of St. Thomas, or the Eunuch of 
 Candace, Queen of Ethiopia. We also saw how the 
 emblems of Hindu and devil worship are there mingled 
 together, the priests submitting to almost anything 
 that will bring them gains from the people. Some 
 of the forms, both of the temple and the grove, were 
 antique and picturesque; but it filled the mind with 
 horror to think of the delusions which had there been 
 so long practised on redeemed and immortal beings. 
 At noon we went to the Rev. Mr. O.^s, the elder clergy- 
 man at Kandy, and conversed with him on the moral 
 and religious necessities of the place. We also visited 
 a higher class school belonging to his church, conducted 
 by the Rev. Mr. Jones, an Irish evangelical clergy- 
 man, and examined the youths in the Scriptures, and in 
 various departments of learning. We found them well 
 instructed, and able to answer, with readiness and 
 accuracy, the various questions proposed to them. In 
 the evening we attended the Church service, and heard 
 an excellent sermon from Mr. O. Afterwards we 
 went again to the temple to see the renowned casket 
 which encloses, as it is said, Buddhu's tooth ; but the 
 priests would not admit us ; and only said, in answer to 
 our requests, " Come again to-morrow ! " We slept at 
 the hotel, to be ready for the coach early in the morn- 
 ing ; but we were sadly tormented by musquitoes from 
 the lake near us. 
 
OPENING OF A NEW CHAPEL. 85 
 
 Thurs.j Nov. 15. — Took coach at five, a.m., for 
 Colombo. As soon as the light broke, we found our- 
 selves surrounded by grand and magnificent scenery. 
 We skirted several cofiee plantations, and saw the coffee 
 tree frequently as we went along. We had two coffee 
 planters inside the coach with us, talking incessantly of 
 their possessions. One of them had bought, at an auc- 
 tion on the previous day, some eleven hundred acres of 
 coffee-ground, at forty- three shilllings per acre. We 
 learned from them, as from others, that the scenery 
 higher up, in the interior, is finer and more panoramic 
 than any we had beheld ; and that in that higher and 
 mountainous region herds of large wild elephants are 
 found. We reached Colpetty again in the evening, and 
 were in bed there by half-past ten. 
 
 Frid., Nov. 16. — Rose at six, refreshed by a good 
 night's rest, and at ten drove with Mr. Gogerly to Papa- 
 liano, to open a new chapel there for the natives. It is 
 about six miles from Colombo, and on our road we saw 
 something more of interior Singhalese life, and entered 
 one of our smaller village chapels, used also as a school- 
 room. On the road we passed many natives walking, or 
 riding in their bullock-waggons, and going to our open- 
 ing service. On arriving at Papaliano we found the 
 large, new chapel full, and many not able to gain admit- 
 tance, though all the children had been sent away to 
 make room for adults. The scene outside, thronged with 
 natives in holiday dresses, and skirted with cocoa-nut 
 trees, was very pleasing. We ascended the steps on 
 which the chapel is raised, and found the interior impos- 
 ing. Lofty columns, with high pedestals and well 
 moulded capitals, supported the central roof, and all 
 over the spacious area were the crowded natives in their 
 
 I 
 
86 LIBERALITY AND DEVOTION. 
 
 gay and picturesque costumes, with not a white face 
 among them. Here and there might be seen native 
 ministers and catechists from different parts, in half 
 European clothing ; and near to the pulpit were a few 
 burghers and their families. The pulpit was a large 
 hexagon, made of brick and plaster, and was surrounded 
 by a wide cedar communion rail. Mr. Gogerly read the 
 abridged form of the Liturgy and the Commandments in 
 Singhalese ; and the responses of the people were loud 
 as the sound of many waters. I then ascended the pul- 
 pit, to preach to them through interpretation by their 
 own native minister. The sight was novel and affecting. 
 The many colours of women's dresses made them like 
 garden beds of lilies and dahlias, and the trinkets on 
 their necks, arms, and ears, gave a glitter to the scene ; 
 while, beyond the women and the better- dressed men, 
 lining the walls, and crowding the doors and windows, 
 were fine, bronze forms, bare down to the loins. All 
 were devout and attentive, and after the sermon plates, 
 neatly covered with white napkins, were handed courte- 
 ously round among them by native office-bearers, upon 
 which they respectively placed their contributions for 
 the house of God. Some of them had given liberally 
 before, both in labour and money. Several among the 
 poor had devoted as much as two and three months' 
 pay for work to it ; and the chapel is a standing memo- 
 rial both of their generosity and devotion. In this ser- 
 vice, also, I saw the stolid, cautious Singhalese tremble 
 and shed tears under the free proclamations of the Gos- 
 pel to sinners, and at the declarations made of the love 
 and sympathy for them in Christian England. After 
 the service in the chapel, I met the native ministers and 
 catechists present in the school-room opposite, and 
 
FAREWELL. 87 
 
 addressed them in the name of my ministerial brethren 
 at home. Now, as before, grateful mention was made 
 of missionaries formerly among them, such as the Revs. 
 Robert New stead, R. Spence Hardy, and Dr. Kessen. 
 They gathered closely around me, and brought their 
 wives and little ones near, that I might speak to them 
 also. They gave me fruit and milk, which I enjoyed in 
 their society more than I should have done a sumptuous 
 banquet in the company of nobles and their heirs. We 
 wept at parting; and as I returned to Colombo with 
 Mr. Gogerly, I learned from him that Singhalese 
 women are not the abused and oppressed drudges under 
 their husbands that women are generally in heathen 
 countries. In Ceylon many of them have their due 
 place and influence in the household. 
 
 Sat., Nov. 17. — Left Colombo by coach at five o'clock 
 in the morning for Galle. In the way found, at the 
 change of horses, our native ministers, their families, 
 and their people, crowding around the coach, with 
 remembrance-tokens for Mrs. Jobson and myself. We 
 prized these the more, inasmuch as they had been 
 charms and amulets worn by the natives before conver- 
 sion from Heathenism to Christianity. They also 
 brought us, from cottages and huts under the shady 
 palms, bottles of warm tea and of cool cocoa-nut milk ; 
 and as we left them on the road and by the wayside, 
 with their children as well as themselves in neat, clean 
 clothing, they significantly smiled and beckoned to us 
 grateful and Christian farewells. The day was fine, the 
 scenery luxuriantly rich, and our progress through the 
 half hundred miles of avenue, — all festooned with gay 
 creepers and tendrils, — was, amidst the throngs and 
 smiles of Christian natives, almost to be likened to a 
 
 I 2 
 
88 RE-EMBARKATION. 
 
 triumphant procession. We reached Galle by half-past 
 three, p.m., and before sleeping at night secured a com- 
 fortable cabin for our approaching sail to Australia. 
 
 Sun., Nov. 18. — Preached in the Dutch Presbyterian 
 church at nine o'clock in the morning to a good and 
 attentive congregation ; and, in the evening, to a 
 crowded assembly of all denominations in our own plain, 
 but spacious old chapel. 
 
 Mon., Nov. 19, and Tues., 20. — Devoted to letters for 
 England. 
 
 Wed., Nov. 21. — Went on board the "Behar^' by 
 twelve at noon. Found her to be a good, new steam- 
 ship. Sailed by nine in the evening, with pleasant 
 memories of Ceylon, and not wondering that it should 
 be so highly celebrated for its surpassing loveliness. 
 
art S^rnttb* 
 
 AUSTRALIA AND TASMANIA. 
 
 I 3 
 
AUSTRALIA AND TASMANIA. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The Indian Ocean — Albatrosses— Southern Constellations — Cape Leenwiu 
 — King George's Sound — Aborigines and Wild Flowers— Convicts—- 
 Voyage from Albany to Port Phillip— Melbourne— Ballarat and "the 
 Diggings " — Geelong — Notes on Melbourne, Ballarat, Geelong, and on 
 Methodism in the Colony of Victoria. 
 
 Thurs., Nov. 22. — Refreshing breeze, and fine 
 through the day, but out of all sight of land. Scotchmen 
 still preponderated on board, both among passengers and 
 crew. Our steamship had been built at Greenock for 
 the French ; but, being too costly for them, had been 
 given up to the Peninsular and Oriental Company. 
 
 Frid.j Nov. 23. — Another fine and very warm day. 
 The sun set gloriously. We crossed the equinoctial line 
 in the night j and the heat was intense. 
 
 Sat., Nov. 24. — A bright morning. Ships in sight, 
 going north. Waterspout in the distance. A squall 
 came on ; we had a wet night, and the port-holes were 
 closed. 
 
 Sun., Nov. 25. — Our Captain read prayers, in the 
 forenoon, in a most hurried, slovenly manner^ getting 
 
92 SOUTHERN CONSTELLATIONS. 
 
 through the whole service in twenty minutes. In the 
 evening we had worship in our cabin, for ourselves. 
 
 From Mon.y Nov. 26, to Sat., Dec. 1. — Weather very 
 changeable throughout the week, so that our progress 
 over the Indian Ocean was not very rapid. 
 
 Sun.j Dec. 2. — Read the Liturgy, and preached on 
 "Conscience" in the saloon. Weather fine, but wind 
 still against us. Sensibly cooler. 
 
 From Mon., Dec. 3, to Thurs., 6. — Weather growing 
 rapidly colder, and wind still against us. Saw several 
 large albatrosses sailing in the wind in our wake, and 
 then wheeling their long, bent wings around us, as if 
 they had been sporting companions of our voyage. 
 Some of them must have been twelve feet from tip to 
 tip of their expanded wings. Whales, too, were seen in 
 the distance towards the south. Night fine, and the 
 stars and constellations of the southern hemisphere 
 shone brilliantly over our heads. The Southern Cross 
 was conspicuous in the jewelled heavens, and we watched 
 it as it rose in an inclined position above the horizon to 
 a perpendicular elevation, and until it declined again. 
 We now understood the reported cry of travelling Arabs 
 in the desert : " It is past midnight ; for the Cross begins 
 to bend." We could trace in the firmament some forms 
 familiar to us, but most of the constellations were new, 
 and shone in the deep, blue vault with a piercing bright- 
 ness, surpassing what can be seen in a European sky. 
 The moon, too, came up at her hour in full-orbed 
 splendour, and looked larger than she seems in England. 
 She shed a bright pathway over the ocean; and the 
 night was magnificent. 
 
 Frid., Dec. 7. — At eleven in the forenoon sighted 
 Australian land, on the left. For some time it was in- 
 
KING George's sound. 93 
 
 definite in its form and colour, but by one it grew more 
 distinct, though from the peculiar effect of the atmo- 
 sphere upon it there was difficulty in judging of its 
 elevation and sea-line. Something like the fantastic 
 mirage of the desert seemed to play upon it, and to 
 shape, elevate, and double it by reflexion, until it was 
 hard, even for the officers of our ship, to say what was 
 visionary and what was real. At length the positive 
 was plainly before us, and with our straining eyes we 
 saw a long, low, horizontal, coast line, clothed with a 
 dull, leaden, brown-green scrub; and, where rising to 
 anything like hills in elevation, covered with thick 
 forest trees of the same heavy, monotonous colour. On 
 advancing towards Cape Leeuwin, the south-west angle 
 of this island- continent, the scenery becomes more bold, 
 rocky, and picturesque in front ; while over and beyond 
 the coast-ridge may be discerned hills and mountain 
 ranges. Huge boulders of hoary grey stone obtrude 
 through the scrub of the elevated ground by the sea, 
 and group themselves into almost every variety of form, 
 — seeming at times like remnants of baronial castles, or 
 old watch-towers, with fallen walls between, — and then 
 like Druidical remains ; — until it is difficult to believe 
 that what is before you is a singularity of natural form, 
 and not the handiwork of man. Our powerful glasses, 
 however, dissolved this charm, and brought to our view 
 the veritable structure of these up-heaved rocks. On 
 nearing Cape Leeuwin the rugged clifis became more 
 perpendicular and precipitous in their fall, and off-lying 
 islands appeared at some distance in the sea ; some of 
 them resembling the rock on which Dumbarton Castle 
 stands in the Clyde. The sunset among all these 
 fantastic forms was gorgeously picturesque, but had 
 
94 ABORIGINES AND WILD FLOWERS. 
 
 more of deep orange than crimson. It was more 
 American than Egyptian in its tinge. 
 
 Sat. J Dec. 8. — After a sail of nearly two hundred 
 miles from Cape Leeuwin, we entered King George^s 
 Sound at daybreak, around high rocks and forelands — a 
 circuitous and intricate course, which requires a pilot 
 of the place for safe entrance. Large islands of grim, 
 frowning rock were in our course, and the sea dashed 
 and foamed against them with impetuous fury. When 
 we reached the harbour, we found ourselves in clear, 
 smooth water, of considerable extent. The Adelaide 
 steamer was here, waiting for the mail-boxes for South 
 Australia; and convicts came off in boats, and took 
 them, and the boxes for Western Australia, under 
 guardsmen. As soon as practicable, we went ashore, and 
 stayed at Albany for several hours, while convicts coaled 
 the ship. Here we had our first sight of the aborigines 
 of Australia ; and here, at this southern port of Western 
 Australia, we saw the convict system in operation. We 
 wandered from the shore through the scrub, and up 
 the stony hills, picking onr way as safely as we could, 
 in the entangled abode of deadly snakes, plucking ferns 
 and wild flowers, many of which were surprisingly 
 beautiful. A company of aborigines, scantily covered 
 with kangaroo skins, clotted with red grease, and 
 bedaubed on forehead, cheek, and limbs, with white 
 pipeclay, followed us, — ^jabbered their semi-English 
 jargon in our ears, — and, to obtain our white money, 
 gathered for us profuse bunches of flowers, and exhibited 
 their surprising feats of throwing the boomerang and 
 the spear. We were nearly alone with them, but we 
 found no occasion to fear, and engrossed their attention 
 by talk of " white money.^' One convict, whom we 
 
VOYAGE FROM ALBANY TO PORT PHILLIP. 95 
 
 came upou at a secluded spot, whcD in company with 
 our dark and disgusting attendants, had a tame opossum 
 for sale ; and others of his class, whom we passed on our 
 return, were eager to sell us shells, parrots, and cock- 
 atoos. We found many Irish at this convict settlement. 
 There is but little cultivated land, we were told, in the 
 country around Albany, and scarcely anything but 
 distant patches of ground between it and Perth (three 
 hundred miles off) which can be employed even as 
 sheep and cattle runs. The situation of Albany, as 
 viewed from our steamship, and encircling the crystal 
 harbour, backed and flanked by bold, rocky hills and 
 heights which are covered with dense dark green foliage, 
 was remarkably picturesque. It reminded us of our 
 own Windermere, as beheld from the middle island, and 
 looking towards Bowness ; only there was less variety 
 of colour, and Albany Harbour has a broader water in 
 its basin than Lake Windermere. From King George's 
 Sound we threaded our way back amidst rocky islands, 
 and passed again into the open sea. Steering our way 
 eastward, we had the Australian coast on our left ; and 
 beyond a lofty conical hill by the sea-shore, (apparently 
 a spent volcano,) called " Mount Gardinere,^' we could 
 see high mountains, far back inland, of which we could 
 not learn the names. And now, standing out into the 
 great Southern Ocean, we had to sail some thirteen 
 hundred miles across the great bight of the south coast 
 of Australia to Port Phillip. 
 
 Another gorgeous sunset; and the night which 
 followed one cannot easily describe. The stars seemed 
 to be pendant from the sky, and to be scattered so 
 strangely over the heavens that it looked to our English 
 eyes like the sky of another world. We never lost this 
 
96 MELBOURNE. 
 
 feeling under starlight, until we returned to Europe, 
 when to gaze again on our northern constellations was 
 like looking on old faces. 
 
 Sun., Dec. 9. — Beautifully fine, and climate pleasant. 
 Read the Liturgy and preached. 
 
 From Mon., Dec. 10, to Thurs., 13. — Wind and 
 weather variable ; but our passage not altogether 
 slow. 
 
 Frid., Dec. 14. — Early in the morning arrived at the 
 entrance to the large harbour of Victoria, called " Port 
 Phillip,^^ having seen no land during four preceding 
 days, — nor until we neared the outstretching headland 
 of " Cape Otway,^' on the Thursday. We now passed 
 two lighthouses on the west side of the entrance to the 
 harbour; and between them rolled majestically the 
 heavy swelling waves from " Bass' Straits," which sepa- 
 rate Tasmania from Australia. We rode buoyantly 
 upon them, and shot our way into the smoother water. 
 Day broke with a most gorgeous sunrise. The clouds 
 were dappled crimson. The sky glowed like burnished 
 gold ; and when the sun appeared above the coast-hills 
 on our right, the quarantine houses under them, and 
 the lighthouses and coast opposite, with the glancing, 
 rippling waves between, were all bathed in a flood of 
 golden light of the purest and brightest lustre. 
 
 , A mail-boat came off from the lighthouse side for 
 letters to Geelong ; and after it had departed, we again 
 careered through the great inland basin, some forty 
 miles long from the entrance to Hobson's Bay, where 
 we had to land for Melbourne. The crimson and yellow 
 morning light gradually changed to one more silvery, 
 or rather, amber-like, in its liquid transparency. The 
 coast on our left showed miles of flat, arable and pasture- 
 
MELBOURNE. 97 
 
 land^ with the blue range of " Mount Macedon " behind, 
 and the dingy, boat-building, Blackwall sort of a suburb 
 named " Williamstown ^' (the port of Melbourne) in 
 front, at the edge of the water. The scenery on the 
 right, stretching far away, was that of brown-green trees 
 and scrub, with several mountain ranges beyond ; and 
 with white cottages and broad-eaved villas dotting the 
 coast in front, at "Brighton." Before us appeared 
 the Metropolitan city of the Australian colony of " Vic- 
 toria," stretching over miles of gentle slope from the 
 shore to the flat hills upon which the main part of it 
 stands. Immediately on our left was Sandridge Pier, 
 with shipping from various parts of the world ; and 
 steaming away from thence to the city was the railway- 
 train. It was a wondrous scene to behold ; and deeply 
 illustrative of the energy and power of man. Consi- 
 derablv within our own life-time, the whole of what we 
 saw now cultivated and built upon had been a wilder- 
 ness, peopled only by savages, and known only to here 
 and there an enterprising voyager, who had touched 
 this coast in passing round the Australian shores ! Our 
 steamship, which had to proceed to Sydney, anchored at 
 a distance of two miles from the landing-place ; but we 
 soon saw our friends approaching in a boat ; and we 
 were heartily welcomed to this southern world by the 
 Rev. D. J. Draper, and his ministerial brethren of Mel- 
 bourne, and were conveyed to the hospitable home of 
 the Hon. Alexander Eraser, a member of the Legislative 
 Council, who also came in the boat to welcome us. His 
 house was at St. Kilda, a pleasant suburb, some two 
 miles beyond the centre of Melbourne. 
 
 Sat,, Dec. 15. — Drove with the Eev. D. J. Draper, 
 Wesleyan minister, and Chairman of the Victoria Dis- 
 
 K 
 
98 MELBOURNE. 
 
 trict, to look round Melbourne. Its large, massive 
 granite buildings, its wide and numerous streets, — its 
 sumptuous shops and stores, — -and its extent and ad- 
 vancement, greatly surprised me. A great part of it 
 might have belonged to some of the more substantial 
 and prosperous cities and towns of England. In general 
 character, it struck me as being most like Birmingham, 
 with some of the larger London streets intermixed. 
 There were park-like suburbs around, uniting it with 
 rising townships of wide extent. These surrounding 
 towns have still houses of boards, or of zinc, and, in 
 some few instances, of canvas. The Government offices 
 and public buildings of Melbourne surpass anything in 
 England to be found out of London ; and the Houses 
 of Legislature, with the Treasury, &c., when finished, 
 will, in their sumptuous style and decorations, rival the 
 Senate Chambers and buildings in Paris. 
 
 Sun. J Dec. 16. — Preached morning and evening at 
 Wesley Church, Lonsdale Street, — a large gothic struc- 
 ture, with tower, spire, transepts, and chancel, all on a 
 good scale, and in good keeping. The congregations 
 were immense, and the excitement I experienced while 
 preaching to so many whom I had known in England 
 was greater than I can easily describe. 
 
 Mon., Dec. 17. — Wrote letters, and received visits 
 from friends. 
 
 Tues.j Dec. 18. — Left Melbourne at eight o'clock in the 
 morning for Ballarat, Mr. Draper kindly accompanying 
 me. Travelled to Geelong by railway, over wide-spread 
 pasture and arable lands, and arrived there by eleven ; 
 having had a stoppage on the way, through the failure 
 of a bridge over a creek. We now got into a huge, 
 swing coach, with fifteen or sixteen persons inside, and 
 
BALLARAT. 99 
 
 witli nearly as many outside. It was a long, boat-like 
 conveyance, on leathern springs, of American construc- 
 tion, and driven by a dashing American coachman. 
 We had all kinds of persons with us as fellow pas- 
 sengers : Chinamen, in their blouse-like dresses, and 
 with their long tails curled up behind their heads ; long 
 loose-limbed colonists, with stiff, grizzly beards ; gen- 
 tlemen gold-seekers ; and rough, enterprising labourers, 
 with their wives and children. The road was good in 
 some places, but rugged and jolting in others. The 
 land on both sides was mostly fenced in, except where 
 we drove through the bush and scrub, and had to drive 
 over plank and '' corduroy ^' roads at full speed. In loose 
 and swampy parts they saw trees in two, from the top 
 to the roots, and then place the flat-side of the half 
 trees upon the ground, and the coach rattles and jolts 
 over the round upper half of the trees. Koads thus 
 formed are called "corduroy,^' from their striped re- 
 semblance to that material. 
 
 There are inns at every stage ; and on the road we 
 often met bullock-drays, going slowly and heavily down 
 to the capital, laden with bales of wool for transit to 
 England. At intervals, by the way, were to be seen 
 settlers' huts and clearings, with trunks and charred 
 stumps of trees, and with the gradually-acquired stock 
 feeding on the field and forest-like pastures around. 
 Here and there would be seen a larger dwelling, of more 
 substantial material, with larger herds of cattle, and 
 with park-like grounds in its neighbourhood. It was 
 surprising to see, as we went along, what wide, spacious 
 plains opened to us on either hand, which in their 
 primitive condition were entirely free from bush and 
 scrub, and had not more trees upon them than would be 
 
 K 2 
 
100 BALLARAT. 
 
 desired for ornament, or for the shelter of cattle. It 
 seemed as if the settler had nothing to do, in such 
 parts, but to plough up the turf, and turn out his flocks 
 and herds; for no primeval forests were there to be 
 rooted out before cultivation began. In other parts, 
 gentle slopes and shady glens were seen, and over them 
 long ranges of hills, wooded to the summits, giving 
 breadth and variety to the landscape. Some of the 
 trees were large and grand in their forms; but they 
 were nearly all gum trees, which shed their bark instead 
 of their leaves, and thus present, in stem and branches, 
 a stripped and naked appearance. There was, also, the 
 lack of rivers and streams. Otherwise, if there had been 
 greater variety of foliage, and the winding of flowing 
 water, the scenes in our way would not unfrequently 
 have been equal to the best parts of Yorkshire. 
 
 About five o'cloct in the evening we found ourselves 
 at the point of descent from an elevation into a valley 
 where a street of two miles, or more, wound its serpen- 
 tine length between stores and houses of various mate- 
 rials, but chiefly of wood; and with the ground on 
 either hand, in the valley, and up the sides of the hill, 
 all in heaps and hollows, covered with machinery and 
 temporary dwellings ; while in various directions, amidst 
 the disembowelled yellow- white earth, were running, in 
 gullies and channels, streams of muddy water. This 
 was Ballarat, and its gold-diggings. Our American 
 Jehu had dashed along at a quick rate previously, but 
 now he hurried forward his " eight?in-hand '^ at their 
 utmost speed, and galloped furiously down the hill into 
 the town. We drove with wonder through the strange 
 street, with its variously formed structures and stores — 
 some of boards, some of zinc, others of brick and stone ; 
 
 '0 
 
BALLARAT. 101 
 
 and so oddly and grotesquely fashioned and coloured, 
 that they seemed more like the temporary show erec- 
 tions of a pleasure-fair than the buildings of a central 
 thoroughfare in a township of forty thousand inhabit- 
 ants. We gazed curiously upon the " signs " and names 
 of the possessors from different nations, gaudily painted 
 on the fronts of the motley erections, as we passed along, 
 and saw sleek-faced Chinamen and bearded Europeans 
 mingled together upon the pavement at the sides. At 
 length we emerged from the more hastily constructed 
 portion of the town, and ascended the upper part, with 
 its substantial buildings of good, ornamental styles of 
 architecture. On the arrival of the coach at the hote]_, 
 we were cordially welcomed by Wesleyan friends, and 
 I preached in their larger chapel in the evening. 
 
 Wed., Dec. 19. — Mr. Draper and myself, with the 
 Rev. John G. Millard, superintendent minister of the 
 Ballarat Circuit, and Mr. Oddie, circuit steward, drove 
 in a spider-wheeled phaeton to the agricultural lands 
 of the neighbourhood ; and after passing through 
 spacious grounds, reserved for botanical gardens and 
 other ornamental purposes, we saw large fields of many 
 acres standing thick with corn. We went some ten 
 miles out, and found extensive plains of rich arable and 
 pasture land, with rising villages and hamlets, and roads 
 being laid out and beaten down for traffic. A series 
 of well-moulded hills of rich clothing bounded the 
 prospect ; and swampy, outspreading lakes varied the 
 scene pleasantly. After visiting one of our ministers at 
 a country station, baptizing an infant child of English 
 emigrants, and seeing large farmsteads of prosperous 
 colonists, we returned to Ballarat, to look more closely 
 at the gold-digging region. 
 
 K 3 
 
103 "the diggings/' 
 
 We now took to our feet, and passed " Golden Point/' 
 so named from its extraordinary amount of precious 
 produce. The earth was honey-combed ; the valley 
 gaped with holes, and was filled with gullies and drains 
 of water, in every direction. Squatters, merchants, 
 soldiers, sailors, farmers, shopkeepers, miners, shep- 
 herds, artisans, college-graduates, and freed convicts, 
 were all herded together in search of the yellow prize. 
 It seemed a huge human ant-hill; and sound and 
 excitement of labour were everywhere heard and seen. 
 We passed from part to part, hearing from our attend- 
 ant, who had been at Ballarat from its commencement, 
 strange stories of the scenes and deeds of that place 
 when gold was first discovered in it, and when parties 
 went in every direction "prospecting," as the term is 
 currently applied in Australia to restless searchers in 
 auriferous regions for hid treasure. His recital of 
 struggles for certain localities by multitudes arriving 
 from week to week ; of privations and sufierings en- 
 dured by diggers, and their alternate states of destitu- 
 tion and enrichment, extravagance and profligacy ; his 
 pictures of their quarrels with licensing officers, and 
 among themselves ; of their epidemics and deaths ; 
 their treacheries, thefts, and murders, filled us with 
 shuddering wonder, and drew from us loud exclamations 
 as we went along. But we were scarcely noticed by the 
 diggers, whatever might be our looks or words of amaze- 
 ment ; for they were too earnest in their work to give 
 any heed to us. In one place we had pointed out to 
 us the spot where the largest nugget of gold ever dis- 
 covered in the world was found by a party of four men, 
 at a depth of one hundred and eighty feet from the 
 surface. It weighed one hundred and thirty-four 
 
''the diggings." 103 
 
 pounds, and is described as being of the size and form 
 of a ham ; and was named, " the welcome nugget/' 
 We were shown the strata of the earth ; and how the 
 richest deposits are in veins of blue clay, and are found 
 mostly in rounded or water- worn lumps of various sizes, 
 varying from a quarter of an ounce to two ounces in 
 weight. Not unfrequently the gold is incorporated with 
 round pebbles of quartz, the original matrix of the 
 precious metal ; less frequently in irregular smooth 
 pieces of from four to seven ounces' weight. The greater 
 quantity, however, is washed from the clays in the form 
 of minute rounded or flattened grains. Upwards of one 
 hundred millions sterling of gold has been produced by 
 Victoria since the discovery of its treasure in 1851, 
 and Ballarat has contributed more than one-fourth of 
 that amount. The gold from here, too, is of the finest 
 quality. It averages twenty-four carats, and is worth 
 eighty-three shillings per ounce, being considerably 
 more valuable than our composite gold sovereigns. The 
 diggings and washings at Ballarat, at the time we visited 
 it, had slackened in their production of gold ; and the 
 greater part of that obtained was not, as formerly, from 
 the gullies, but from a considerable depth, and from quartz 
 crushed by machinery. Many whom we saw at work were 
 rewashing the heaps of excavated soil so hastily searched 
 by early diggers ; and they found it worth their time to 
 expend labour on the old material. They were thickly 
 clotted and be mired with their labour in the muddy 
 pits, ravines, and water-courses, and some of them had 
 the look, as well as the garb, of desperadoes. It was piti- 
 able to see their wives and little children in the miserable 
 huts erected for shelter amidst these muddy heaps and 
 holes, and in which they had their homes by day and night. 
 
104 '^ THE DIGGINGS." 
 
 We afterwards went to what is called '^ the Chinese 
 Camp," where some three thousand Chinamen were 
 located together, on an eminence near to their side of 
 the gold-diggings. Their dwellings were, as might be 
 expected, of the light boarded kind, with small rooms 
 and cupboard -like shops in front. There were, in the 
 midst of their frail, crowded structures, a joss-house for 
 their gods, and a large theatre for their sports. As 
 they knew our guide by his efforts to benefit them 
 religiously, they allowed us to look at their abodes, 
 shops, cooking-rooms, and gaming-houses, and even 
 courteously invited us to partake with them of cakes, 
 tea, and fruit. Their numerous gaming-houses were 
 crowded with eager-looking actors, at the counters or 
 boards. In their dwellings and shops were suspended 
 idol- shrines and lanterns. We saw scarcely any women 
 among them. Their wives are left behind in China, as 
 hostages, we were told, for the return of the men to 
 their own country ; but others say that they are afraid 
 to trust their wives among the colonists. A few of 
 them, who, I suppose, have made up their minds to 
 settle permanently in Australia, have taken Irishwomen 
 for wives. But the reports of domestic morals among 
 the Chinese are awful ; and from what I heard and saw, 
 I do not wonder at the prejudice existing in the minds 
 of Anglo-Saxon colonists against them. It was melan- 
 choly to reflect that three thousand of such sensual and 
 depraved beings had been gathered at the gold fields 
 of Ballarat to mingle and compete with Europeans; 
 and that more than forty thousand of them are dis- 
 persed over the colony of Victoria! As we left this 
 saddening sight, the short twilight passed away ; the 
 din of labour ceased; and in one direction we could 
 
GEELONG. 105 
 
 hear a few bars of the sweet German hymn ; in another 
 snatches of a roaring song by boisterous sailors; in 
 another the harsh sounds of quarrel, or the echoes of 
 laughter. With space and distance the discordant 
 sounds blended into a general hum ; and when the last 
 sound died away, as we re-entered the Methodist 
 parsonage of Upper Ballarat, we recounted the old saw 
 of England, that " One half of the world does not know 
 how the other half lives." 
 
 Thurs.j Dec. 20. — Left early in the morning by coach 
 for Geelong, where we were expected at a public meeting 
 in the evening. Arrived there a little after noon. 
 Geelong is the second town of importance in the colony 
 of Victoria, and is situated on the western side of Port 
 Phillip, on a picturesque and sheltered slope of the bay, 
 at a distance of forty-one miles from Melbourne by the 
 railway. It has a population of twenty-five thousand, 
 and has some good streets, shops, warehouses, and pub- 
 lic buildings. In its central and principal thorough- 
 fares, and in the character of its buildings, it is not 
 unlike the clean, healthy town of Huddersfield, in the 
 West Riding of Yorkshire ; and it is as well situated, 
 by fall of ground, for drainage. The outskirts of the 
 town are, as might be expected, more scattered and 
 irregular in their dwellings. The river Barwon runs 
 about a mile behind it, flowing towards its outlet in 
 Lake Connewarre, through which it discharges itself 
 into the sea. The scenery contiguous to the river is 
 beautifully picturesque, and the Barrabool hills around, 
 being remarkably fertile, are occupied by productive 
 farms and vineyards. We had a large, enthusiastic 
 meeting in the evening, were kindly greeted by ministers 
 of various denominations, and found- many among the 
 
106 GEELONG. 
 
 audience whom we had known in England. We were 
 hospitably entertained by our superintendent minister, 
 at Geelong, — Rev. Joseph Dare. At his pleasant 
 manse by the chapel, I was re-joined by Mrs. Jobson, 
 whom I had left to follow me to Geelong when I went 
 from Melbourne to Ballarat. 
 
 Frid.y Dec, 21. — Detained at Geelong by the indispo- 
 sition of my wife till the afternoon, when we returned 
 by railway to Melbourne. 
 
 Sat., Dec. 22. — Spent the day in writing letters, and 
 in receiving visitors. 
 
 Sun., Dec. 23. — Preached at Brunswick Chapel, 
 Melbourne, in the morning, and in our grey granite 
 gothic chapel, with its square tower, at St. Kilda, in 
 the evening. The heat was great, and the excitement 
 as much as could be borne. 
 
 Mon. Dec. 24. — Wrote letters, and exchanged visits 
 with friends from England. Day exceedingly hot, but 
 night cool. Musquitoes troublesome. 
 
 Tues., Dec. 25. — A strange Christmas-day, being 
 intolerably hot; and no prospect of gathering around 
 the fire with relatives for Christmas-cheer : — Christmas 
 being the Australian midsummer. In the morning we 
 went to the Botanic Gardens, which are stored with 
 plants, animals, and birds, native to the colony ; and 
 then drove past the Government-house, and amidst the 
 forest clearings of the roads and fields of the neighbour- 
 hood, finding it difficult, in some parts, to make our 
 way in the carriage, through ruts and swamps. Beyond 
 the Government domain, towards the east, the sweep of 
 scenery was large and impressive. Unbroken dark 
 forests crowned the hill; and in the distance was the 
 long range of the " Blue Mountains.'' As we drove 
 
NOTES ON MELBOURNE. 107 
 
 from part to part we heard everywhere on the gum trees 
 the cricket-like insects^ — usually called locusts by the 
 colonists, — hissing their reed-like, monotonous noise; 
 but no song-bird, either large or small, gladdened us 
 with its music. In the evening I preached at Prahran, 
 in a large iron chapel, on the Christian believer^ s love 
 to the unseen Saviour, and to a full congregation 
 gathered from the houses of wood, brick, zinc, and iron 
 of that populous suburb of the capital. 
 
 Wed. and Thurs. Dec. 26 and 27. — Went over various 
 parts of Melbourne, acquainting myself more fully with 
 its plan, arrangements, public institutions, &c., and had 
 pleasant converse with our ministers of the city : — 
 the Rev. Messrs. Waugh, Binks, Hill, Wells, and 
 others. 
 
 Frid., Dec, 28.— Left Melbourne by the "Black 
 Swan" steamer, at half-past ten in the forenoon, for 
 Tasmania. 
 
 Melbourne, for the period of its existence, is, un- 
 doubtedly, the most wonderful city in the world. It is 
 the growth of a single generation : indeed, mostly of 
 the last ten or twelve years. Earlier it was only a long 
 straggling village, or embryo town, with stumps of 
 felled forest-trees in its streets. Now it is a large city, 
 extending two and a half miles in length, one and a 
 half in breadth. On all the land sides, — amidst park- 
 like scenery, — it is surrounded with thickly-populated 
 and richly-ornamental suburbs. It has at present 
 120,000 inhabitants, and its numbers are constantly 
 increasing. The streets are wide, well paved, and well 
 
108 NOTES ON MELBOURNE. 
 
 laid out ; and you see in them stores, shops, and houses 
 of good architectural styles : some resemble what are 
 seen at the west-end of London ; but for the most part 
 they resemble those of a good second-class city, or 
 enterprising English town. The city is already rich in 
 public buildings, and these are continually on the 
 increase. Some of them, for Government and Legis- 
 lative uses, are even sumptuous in their character and 
 decorations. A dark-grey granite is obtained from the 
 hills on which the city is built, which would seem to be 
 all but imperishable in its consolidated hardness; and 
 this, with freestone dressings, supplies good materials 
 for massive public works. Many of the shops and 
 warehouses are of grey-white grit stone, clean and orna- 
 mental, as in the best streets of Manchester and Liver- 
 pool. The broad footways at the sides of the streets 
 are thronged with busy, enterprising men of all nations, 
 but chiefly of the Anglo-Saxon race, and from the old 
 country; while the macadamized roads between are 
 filled with waggons, carts, bullock-drays, and various 
 vehicles of merchandise. Some of the drivers of these 
 carriages, as well as other passengers on foot and 
 horseback, show by their garb of high-leathern boots 
 and "cabbage-tree^^ hats, as also by their sun-burnt, 
 unshaven faces, that they are from the interior of the 
 colony, where men have to rough it. But, mingled 
 thickly with these, are gentlemanly -looking merchants 
 and tradesmen, portly and flourishing as in Hull or 
 Bristol ; while ladies of gay dress and equipages move 
 to and fro, at certain hours, for promenade, and for 
 purchases. Indeed, throughout the city there is a 
 " well-to-do " air with the inhabitants. Rags and 
 beggary are almost unknown. No tattered urchin tips 
 
NOTES ON MELBOURNE. 109 
 
 his cap at the crossing, and, with scraggy besom in 
 hand, besieges you for halfpence. All but rakes and 
 profligates are well-dressed ; for all who will work may 
 work, and that at wages which will feed and clothe 
 them. The most helpless are, perhaps, '^fast" young 
 men who go there as clerks, accountants, and " editors," 
 and not to work out of doors. These, really, glut the 
 market. But all who are willing to earn their bread by 
 the sweat of their brow may do so in Melbourne. 
 Money is not now so plentiful as it was ; and wages are 
 not so high; but a common labourer in the field, or 
 breaking stones upon the road, has from seven shillings to 
 ten shillings per day ; while a mechanic, or an artisan, will 
 have from fifteen shillings to twenty shillings. Kents 
 are not so costly as they were, having fallen, on the 
 average, one-half within the last six years. My host 
 paid at one time as much as >£4,000 a year rent for his 
 house and store, and these were not at all of more than 
 ordinary pretensions. Servants' wages are still high : a 
 good female servant has as much as from thirty to forty, 
 and even to fifty pounds a year. These circumstances 
 give the inhabitants a free independent bearing ; and it 
 is impossible to go through the streets of Melbourne 
 without perceiving that it is an energetic and flourish- 
 ing city. It has, lengthwise, nine spacious thorough- 
 fares, or principal streets, which are crossed by streets 
 equally broad and imposing ; and these are intersected 
 at right angles by numerous narrower streets, running 
 parallel to the larger streets, and branching out into the 
 outskirts of the city in all directions. Three railways 
 issue from its busy centre, upon which have been 
 expended not less than eight millions sterling. The 
 city is daily washed and kept clean by an abundant flow 
 
110 NOTES ON MELBOURNE. 
 
 of water brought from a distance, and of such fall and 
 force that in case of fire the part in danger may be 
 immediately deluged. The public buildings are scat- 
 tered about in various parts, but are chiefly on elevated 
 sites ; and to stand in the heart of this young metropo- 
 lis, and reflect that on this spot, a few years ago, where 
 now 120,000 persons have their homes, where merchants 
 and tradesmen exchange millions sterling, where learn- 
 ing has its university and appended colleges, where the 
 press issues its daily and weekly newspapers by 
 thousands and tens of thousands ; and where there are 
 orphans' homes, hospitals for the sick, and asylums for 
 the insane ; — To stand here and reflect, that but a very 
 few years ago all this was an uncultivated wild, where 
 untutored savages and poisonous reptiles had their 
 dwelling, — is creative of no common emotion. 
 
 In this crowded metropolis Religion is not over- 
 looked or forgotten. As in the " United States,^' and 
 as in Canada, there is a general reverence shown to it 
 and to its ministers. The Sabbath too is outwardlv 
 observed. Nearly all Christian communities have their 
 young and flourishing churches here. Equality of 
 Christian churches is distinctly recognised. At present 
 ^50,000 are annually distributed among them, accord- 
 ing to the respective numbers returned ; but this is not 
 likely to be continued long. Year by year the grant is 
 a subject of angry contention. More than once it has 
 been condemned by a large majority of the Represen- 
 tative Members, and has only been retained by a 
 majority of two or three in the Legislative Council. 
 State assistance to Education is also given to the 
 annual amount of £125,000. This sura is distributed 
 among two classes of Schools, — " Denominational " and 
 
NOTES ON MELBOURNE. Ill 
 
 " National/' — the former being four times as many as 
 the latter. The first Gospel sermon preached in this 
 section of the island-continent was by Joseph Orton_, a 
 Wesleyan missionary, who had accompanied the enter- 
 prising Batman from Tasmania across Bass' Straits to 
 Port Phillip. It was preached in April_, 1836, beneath 
 the shadow of the forest trees on the crest of Batman's 
 Hill. The service was attended bv the colonist and his 
 household, and by a goodly number of the aborigines, 
 who, attracted by the novel scenes and sounds, crowded 
 near to learn what was meant. The text was, " Except 
 a man be born again, he cannot see the kingdom of 
 God ; " and the sermon has been described by one who 
 heard it as being most powerful and impressive ; so that 
 all — including the poor ignorant aborigines — were awed 
 and bowed under it. This was the first Methodist seed 
 sown on the virgin soil of this region of Australia, and 
 it has issued already in an abundant harvest. Within 
 the colony of Victoria we have at present 44 ministers, 
 249 chapels and preaching-places, 43,627 persons form- 
 ing our congregations, 335 local preachers, 147 day- 
 school teachers, 5,646 day scholars, 1,722 sabbath-school 
 teachers, 13,631 sabbath scholars, 5,909 full and 
 accredited church members, with 522 on trial for 
 membership. The Wesleyans in the colony also supply 
 £2,500 per year for Missions to the islands of the 
 Pacific. Melbourne has its proportionate share in these 
 Methodist efibrts and distinctions. The best and most 
 imposing ecclesiastical structures of Melbourne belong 
 to Methodism ; and in character and size are like the 
 large gothic chapels recently built by the Wesleyans in 
 London and Liverpool. One of them, a large imposing 
 building in Lonsdale Street, is of grey granite with 
 
 L 2 
 
112 NOTES ON MELBOURNE. 
 
 freestone dressings: it has a tower and spire, and 
 transepts, and is in appearance the cathedral of the city. 
 This, and some other chapels of Melbourne, were 
 mainly built out of j840,000, realized by the sale of a 
 small piece of land formerly occupied by the Methodist 
 Missionary Society in Collins Street, — a street which 
 has become the principal artery for trade and merchan- 
 dise in the capital. 
 
 My first sermon in Australia was preached in this 
 Lonsdale Street Church, which was densely crowded. 
 And never shall I forget that wedged mass of living 
 "beings, nor the sight of them, when, after the reading 
 of the Liturgy from the desk by the Rev. James 
 Waugh, the resident superintendent, I went up the 
 spiral staircase of tlie beautiful cedar pulpit, and, in 
 giving out the verse, — 
 
 " God of my life, through all my days. 
 My grateful powers shall sound Thy praise ; 
 My song shall wake with opening light,. 
 And cheer the dark and silent night," — 
 
 looked forth upon that sea of upturned, eager faces, 
 browned with the Australian sun, nearly all of persons 
 in middle life ; — many of the men with stiff furze-like 
 beards and long hair, and some of the women worn and 
 subdued by the heat ; and the vast assembly sprinkled 
 all over with countenances familiar to me from preach- 
 ing to congregations in different parts of our parent 
 country ; so that on a careful computation, afterwards 
 made, it was reckoned that I knew one- third of the 
 whole, either in their own faces, or in their family- 
 likenesses. The effect of a voice familiar to so many of 
 them, and calling up at a moment, as by a single link, a 
 
NOTES ON BALLARAT. 113 
 
 host of home associations^ was indescribably exciting. 
 In all directions eyes gushed full with tears ; faces 
 flushed and quivered with emotion ; and a sigh of deep 
 feeling heaved and swayed the mighty mass^ until it 
 waved before and around the preacher like the swelling 
 billows of a sea. With imposed restraint upon a soul 
 moved to its utmost depths at the sight, I preached 
 from the 103rd Psalm, on the grateful remembrance 
 of Divine mercies, and found that the spirit and tone of 
 my audience were in full accordance with the theme. 
 In the evening of the Sabbath the large building was 
 still more densely crowded ; and our subject of medita- 
 tion was the Lamb in the midst of the throne. The 
 collections proved the strength of gratitude and love 
 influencing the congregations ; and it may be humbly 
 hoped that the services of that day in Lonsdale Street 
 Church were not in vain. 
 
 At Ballarat, also, Methodism is energetic and 
 prosperous. I preached to some twelve hundred 
 persons in the larger of our gothic chapels there; 
 and found it had been mostly copied from one of my 
 own published designs. Here were many old Cornish 
 friends, with their serious and devout faces; and who 
 as miners, at Ballarat, and other places in the colony, 
 have had encouraging employment in search for gold- 
 ore. Some poor prodigals in the far country that night 
 said, " I will arise and go to my Father ; '' and at the 
 close of the service the ministers and circuit-officers 
 presented to me, on behalf of the assembly, an Address 
 of congratulation and welcome, expressive, also, of their 
 love and loyalty to British Methodism. I was glad to 
 find that Wesleyans there are not only striving to keep 
 
 L 3 
 
114 NOTES ON BALLARAT. 
 
 themselves from the evil that is in the world, hut also 
 labouring to carry on the cause and work of God in the 
 town and in the region around. There are two Wes- 
 ley an Chapels in the townships of Ballarat^ containing 
 together accommodation for some two thousand wor- 
 shippers. In the Circuit there are twelve day-schools : 
 the one at Ballarat is large and flourishing, and is con- 
 ducted by a teacher from our Training-Institution at 
 Westminster. And there are twenty-four societies and 
 congregations in the Circuit regularly visited by the 
 ministers and local preachers. Of the latter there are 
 as many as forty- three, whose names appear on the 
 Circuit-Plan ; and of these, three- fourths, and more, are 
 from Cornwall. I found also some zealous friends from 
 Islington, to whom I had ministered in past years ; and 
 who, living in the forest and the bush, hold religious 
 services weekly in their own dwellings for themselves 
 and neighbours. I had not the opportunity of inquir- 
 ing particularly into the state of other Christian 
 churches at Ballarat. They are not so large or pros- 
 perous as the Wesleyans ; but they have several places 
 of worship ; and, according to their means, are serving 
 their generation by the will of God; and, generally, 
 there is good fraternal feeling existing among different 
 religious denominations. It was, however, melancholy 
 to learn, that a native Chinese missionary, who had 
 been extensively serviceable to his own people, and who 
 had been voluntarily supported by the benevolent of all 
 churches, had just been dismissed from his place and 
 work, by clerical intolerance, for attendance at Wes- 
 leyan worship, and his place among the idolatrous aud 
 degraded Chinese left unsupplied. I was not able to 
 visit other towns in the gold-field region of Victoria, 
 
NOTES ON GEELONG. 115 
 
 though importuned by the ministers and people of our 
 flourishing churches there to do so. But I was assured 
 that in general features, both civilly and religiously, 
 Ballarat might be viewed as a fair specimen of principal 
 places in the auriferous district. 
 
 In Geelong there are several good ecclesiastical 
 structures ; and our own gothic church there, with its 
 enlargement by transepts, is not inferior to any building 
 in the town. Our superintendent minister (Rev. 
 Joseph Dare) is an intelligent, large-hearted, eloquent 
 man; and by his talents and catholicity of spirit 
 deserves the favour he has both with his own people 
 and those of other Christian communities. He has the 
 largest connexion of churches under his care of any 
 Methodist Circuit in the colony, and, with his col- 
 leagues, labours in the surrounding parts, to carry 
 forward the cause of Christ at a rate equal to the 
 advance of emigration and settlement. In his Circuit 
 there are as many as thirty chapels and preaching- 
 places ; and, in addition to the resident ministers, there 
 are thirty local preachers. The meeting which was 
 held at Geelong in the evening of our visit, was one of 
 Methodist welcome to myself and Mrs. Jobson. It 
 took place in a large spacious building, — the Mechanics' 
 Hall, — and was numerously attended both by Meth- 
 odists and by ministers and members of other religious 
 bodies. I met there, among other ministers known to 
 me, a son of the late Rev. W. Scales, of Leeds. He 
 has a Nonconformist Church in the town. I also saw 
 several who had been members of my congregations in 
 England. The Rev. D. J. Draper, our able and ener- 
 getic chairman of the District, presided. An Address 
 
116 THE COLONY OF VICTORIA. 
 
 was presented^ expressive of the views and feelings of 
 the Methodists of that part towards myself and those 
 whom I had gone to represent^ which was supported 
 by speeches from several ministers and lay-gentlemen ; 
 in reply to which I spoke at length on the state of 
 Methodism in the old country, and on the duties of 
 Wesley ans in all parts of the world. It was a good 
 meeting, and glowed with Christian feeling. 
 
 The secular prospects of this youthful colony of 
 Victoria are truly promising. It is little more than 
 ten years since it was separated from New South Wales 
 for self-government ; and yet it is now foremost in 
 commerce among the Australian colonies, and scarcely 
 surpassed by any other colony of the British empire. 
 In extent of territory it is nearly equal to the United 
 Kingdom, and is exceedingly rich both in gold and 
 cultivable land. It has a population of 550,000, chiefly 
 from the old country ; being more than sevenfold the 
 number of its inhabitants in 1851, when first separated 
 as a distinct colony. It has forty incorporated towns ; 
 is traversed by railways and macadamized roads ; and 
 has electric telegraph-wires extending, not only to the 
 adjoining colonies of New South Wales and South 
 Australia, but also across Bass^ Straits to Tasmania. 
 And with its salubrious climate ; its large yearly ex- 
 ports of gold, wool, tallow, hides, &c. ; and its large 
 annual imports of British goods and manufactures, it 
 may be viewed in relation to Great Britain as worthy 
 of the honoured name it bears. Many exciting 
 stories are told of its sudden fluctuations, of the 
 glut of its markets with unsaleable goods, and the 
 ruinous consequences thereby upon firms and indi- 
 
THE COLONY OF VICTORIA. 117 
 
 viduals. And many a prophetic warning of coming 
 ruin may be heard from squatters and large land- 
 holders, whose miles of acres are being distributed 
 among '^ new chums/' as they arrive. But the colony 
 advances steadily from year to year, and still proves 
 attractive to industrious settlers from all parts of the 
 world. In my travels into the interior, I found persons 
 from the factory life of Lancashire and Yorkshire, 
 gathering up their produce, and raising their cattle on 
 their own freeholds, purchased at twenty shillings per 
 acre, with the prospect of good provision for their rising 
 families, as well as a speedy competency for themselves 
 during the remainder of their lives. In its social and 
 political character it appears to a hasty European visitor 
 unsettled and unsafe. The unguarded speeches of 
 " Kepresentatives," and the frequent changes of the 
 " Ministry,^' are strange and startling ; but it must be 
 remembered that the young and enterprising colony 
 is adjusting itself to self-government only recently 
 acquired. A free, independent bearing appears here 
 among all classes, as may be expected among a people 
 who have all emigrated to improve their condition, and 
 in a country where no hereditary forms of rank exist. 
 The tendency is, undoubtedly, to democratic equality, 
 civilly, as well as religiously. Five years ago a principle 
 tantamount to manhood suffrage was introduced into 
 the colony, and, as we have seen, preponderance of 
 state-aid to religion only lingers a while as a relic of 
 the past. In such circumstances, antecedents give no 
 privileged status to individuals or churches ; and for a 
 time, at least, nobility and establishments are alike im- 
 possible. The Imports of the colony amounted, in 1859, 
 to j815,622,891, and were in the following proportions : 
 
118 THE COLONY OF VICTORIA. 
 
 — Produce, or Manufacture of the United Kingdom, 
 £10,263,468; of British Possessions, £3,242,325 ; of 
 other foreign places, £2,117,098. The Exports of the 
 same year amounted to £13,857,859 ; of which 
 £9,122,137 represented gold, and £1,756,950 wool. 
 Nearly all the exports were shipped direct to Great 
 Britain; amounting to 634,113 tonnage, and freighting 
 2,026 vessels. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Tasmania — River Tamar — Launceston — Stories of the Old Convicts — 
 Last Night of the Year 1860 — Coach Journey from Launceston on 
 New Year's Day, 1861 — Beautiful Scenery — Reaping on New Year's 
 Day — Arrival at Horton- College — Sunday-School Children and New 
 Year's Festival — Coach Journey renewed — Tales of Sportsmen — New 
 Face of Nature, Trees, Birds, and Insects — Arrival at Hobart-Town — 
 Notes on Tasmania — Return to Launceston — Re-passage of Bass' 
 Straits, to Melbourne. 
 
 Frid., Dec. 28. — I took but a single passage in the 
 packet for Tasmania, and left Mrs. Jobson behind at 
 St. Kilda. We had some interesting company on 
 board. A judge shared my sleeping-cabin. Another 
 passenger was an influential member of the House of 
 Legislation from Melbourne. He was going, like 
 several others, a voyage of change and health to Tas- 
 mania. There were, also, several gentlemen of the 
 legal profession, and a clergyman from Cornwall, now 
 in charge of the College at Adelaide. With these I 
 had free and friendly conversations, and from them 
 learned much that was instructive concerning the 
 colonies. Our passage over Bass' Straits was tossing 
 and turbulent : some would describe it as stormy ; but 
 by this time I had become fully at home on the sea, 
 and could rest like a storm-bird upon the swelling 
 wave. 
 
 Sat. J Dec. 29. — At early morning Tasmania, — or as 
 
120 TASMANIA. 
 
 it was formerly called, " Van Diemen's Land/' — was in 
 sight. By half- past twelve we approached the mouth 
 of the River Tamar. The scene before us was far more 
 pleasing than the approach to Australia. It was varied 
 with patches of cheering bright green and lawn-like 
 turf. After we entered the winding river, the shore on 
 either side was exceedingly beautiful. In some parts, 
 it was broken into romantic forms of shelving and pro- 
 truding rocks, covered with luxuriant shrubbery, which 
 wrapped its roots in fantastic figures around the stony 
 protuberances ; and, in other parts, it was clothed with 
 forest trees down to the water^s edge, except where 
 it was cleared for dwellings. Here and there the river 
 opened with fine broad bays, hemmed round with grace- 
 fully moulded hills thickly covered with wood; and 
 beyond these lofty purple-headed table mountains 
 appeared in the distance, bearing the names of " Ben 
 Nevis,'' and " Ben Lomond." The river combines the 
 scenery of the "Dart" in the West of England, and of 
 the " Hudson " in America ; and in several parts has 
 as bold and richly-clad elevations by its side, reflecting 
 themselves in its glassy surface, as are seen at the sides 
 of the Hudson in the passage from Albany to New 
 York. As we advanced, numbers of long-necked black 
 birds were seen diving into the water, and remaining 
 some time before they again made their appearance. 
 At stated points there were dark barrel buoys resting 
 on pile-driven stands. On these, other aquatic birds 
 of great length and peculiar form were perched, and 
 would stand, I was told, for hours without moving. 
 The course of the river's channel is only to be traced 
 by the aid of these buoys, — there not being sufficient 
 water, except in the very channel, for a vessel of any 
 
TASMANIA. 121 
 
 size. We reached Launceston at half-past four in the 
 afternoon, having sailed up the Tamar forty miles. I 
 was met and welcomed to Tasmania by Messrs. Sher- 
 win and Crookes, members of the House of Legislation, 
 and by the Rev. T. B. Harris, son of the Rev. Thomas 
 Harris, of our home connexion. Mr. Sherwin drove 
 me to his pleasantly situated villa, where the surround- 
 ing gardens were full of English flowers and fruits, and 
 where I received every attention and comfort that a 
 stranger in a far-off land could desire. 
 
 Sun,, Dec. 30. — Preached twice in the Wesleyan 
 chapel of Launceston to large and attentive congrega- 
 tions, and made collections on behalf of Foreign Mis- 
 sions. Was impressed with the outward observance 
 of the Sabbath in the town, and with the order which 
 was seen in the streets, considering what had been the 
 character of many of the inhabitants in earlier times. 
 
 Mon., Dec. 31. — Walked over the town of Launces- 
 ton with my kind host, to observe its principal features ; 
 and after dinner at Mr. Crookes', in company with him- 
 self and other friends, went in a boat to see a most 
 romantic and picturesque gorge at the north-west comer 
 of the town, where the South Esk river flows into the 
 Tamar. It is as if volcanic force had riven asunder 
 some huge mountain rock, and left a deep channel to 
 flow between. The rocks on either side stand on large 
 broken masses, with trees and verdure scattered over 
 them, and towering in bold, upright forms overhead. 
 Leaping from our boat, we clambered over rocks and 
 through brushwood to another gorge above, and came 
 to the edge of a vast deep basin, into which there 
 rolled, over scattered rocks, a large volume of water 
 from other gorges above. The rocks and wooded hills 
 
 M 
 
122 ' TASMANIA. 
 
 at the side of the basin were reflected in the clear 
 mirror of the lake ; and their shadows, contrasted with 
 the bright sky above, formed a grand picture. This 
 region, I was told, is fearfully prolific in poisonous 
 snakes and reptiles, common to the colony. 
 
 On returning to the town we passed the " Bastile " 
 of the old convicts, and had recalled to us many a 
 story of former days, when the banished ones were 
 marched in fetters to church, and there publicly exposed 
 to the observation of all. Both men and women had 
 their hair cropped close. The men would play at cards 
 in the gallery during the service ; and the women wore 
 iron-collars with sharp prongs, or spikes, to prevent 
 them from reclining their heads for indulgence in sleep. 
 Such treatment, as may be supposed, did not produce 
 love or reverence for Sabbath- worship ; and in too many 
 instances the clergyman officiating contented himself 
 by formally " doing duty." At that time there were as 
 many as fifty thousand persons of the convict class in 
 Tasmania. This number has been considerably reduced 
 by the rush for gold to other colonies ; and this island 
 is no longer a penal settlement. Also many persons of 
 most respectable character and life have voluntarily 
 chosen this colony for their abode. Still, however, 
 not a few remain in it who were themselves convicts, or 
 who are immediate descendants of " transports ; " and 
 the mixture and intermarriages with them are such 
 that a visitor has to be careful, in some companies 
 where he may appear, not to make too close inquiry 
 concerning the reasons of removal from the old country. 
 Not a few of the worst of the " old hands " have drunk 
 themselves to death, yet a sufficient number of them 
 remain to constitute a formidable class. They are able 
 
LAUNCESTON. 123 
 
 in Launceston, to the annoyance cf my worthy friends, 
 Messrs. Sherwin and Crookes, and of many other free 
 settlers, to elect to the Legislature, from among them- 
 selves, a representative who, under the influence of 
 intoxicating liquor, has disgraced himself in the House 
 of Assembly. This class action tends to perpetuate the 
 memory of the past concerning the character and posi- 
 tion of parties, as well as to give great offence to the 
 free settlers. After all, however, it must be admitted 
 that the general order in society, and the outward 
 reverence for religion, are surprising. 
 
 Launceston is a town containing about ten thousand 
 inhabitants, and is situated within a sort of horse-shoe 
 circle of hills at the junction of the North and South 
 Esk rivers, which, by their confluence, form the Tamar. 
 Its streets and shops are in the more level part below, 
 and extend downwards to the wharf at the edge of the 
 water. The sloping elevations around the town are 
 sprinkled over with the dwellings of the genteeler class, 
 and are tastefully adorned with gardens and vineyards. 
 There are three Episcopal churches in Launceston, two 
 Presbyterian, one Baptist, and one Primitive Methodist 
 chapel, together with our own large Wesleyan chapel, 
 which holds from eight hundred to one thousand 
 persons, and which has a minister's house and good 
 Day and Sunday school-rooms adjoining. "We have 
 also a second chapel and school, on the rising ground 
 near to Mr. Sherwin's. The Roman Catholics have a 
 large chapel in the town ; and both priests and people 
 are zealous to make proselytes to their faith. There 
 have recently been erected some good government 
 buildings, in the Tudor style of architecture, a 
 
 M 2 
 
124 LAST NIGHT OF THE YEAR 1860. 
 
 Mechanics' Institution, and a public suite of rooms. 
 There is a fine open square in the middle of the town, 
 with ecclesiastical structures at the sides, and with a 
 Paris bronze fountain in the middle. On the whole, 
 Launceston is a pleasant and picturesque town, and it is 
 truly English in its character. 
 
 On the last night of the year 1860, we held a public 
 meeting in our larger chapel, having the mayor of the 
 town in the chair. Ministers of different denominations 
 attended, and in their addresses, as well as by their 
 presence, manifested a truly catholic spirit. The passion 
 for Missions is not so strong in this part of the world as 
 in Methodism at home, not having had so many years 
 for nurture ; yet we had a really good meeting ; and the 
 collections made on this evening and on the previous 
 Sabbath, produced one hundred and fifty pounds. I 
 did not know so many persons, proportionately, in the 
 congregations here, as I had known in the congregations 
 of Melbourne; yet there were some to whom I had 
 ministered the word of life in Manchester, Leeds, and 
 London, whom it was interesting to meet, from my 
 knowledge of their family relationships. The Watch- 
 night service was to commence in the chapel almost 
 immediately after the missionary meeting; but having 
 to leave by coach the next morning early, I did not 
 attend that service. 
 
 Tues.y New Yearns Day, 1861. — At five o'clock in the 
 morning left Launceston for Hobart-Town, by a four- 
 horse coach, which daily runs in fourteen hours from the 
 principal town in the north of the island to the capital 
 city, or principal town in the south. The road is very 
 good, having been made by convict labour, and having 
 had no amount of necessary work spared from it. The 
 
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 125 
 
 coacli was well horsed^ and reminded one, as it bowled 
 over the macadamized surface, of the best days of the 
 ''Age," "Highflyer," and "Red-Rover," along the 
 famed North Road of England. The resemblance would 
 have been complete, only there lacked the guard^s 
 cheery horn. The country is mountainous, and yet 
 pleasant in its general aspect. Two chains of moun- 
 tains run through it longitudinally, called the eastern 
 and western tiers, and the great road passes through a 
 cultivated valley between. The best arable land is in 
 the northern part of the island, and the landscape, 
 though mostly indigo-green, yet exhibits more variety 
 of tint than Australia, and is far more English in its 
 appearance. English flowers and fruits thrive here in 
 full perfection ; sweet-brier hedges perfume the way for 
 the traveller ; and the climate is salubrious and pleasant. 
 Familiar names from the old country are given to the 
 principal mountains, some of which rise from four to six 
 thousand feet above the level of the sea. Towns and 
 villages, with their cottages, houses, shops, gardens, 
 and places of public worship, all look as if they were 
 English. It has been observed that the Englishman 
 reproduces his home wherever he goes ; and this may be 
 fully seen in Tasmania. It appears in the small, slab- 
 built hut, smothered with geraniums and honeysuckles ; 
 in the dairy farm house, with its trailing vines, climbing 
 plants, surrounding flower-garden, and orchard of apple 
 and pear trees ; and in the solid stone mansion, flanked 
 by oaks from the old country, with its smooth green 
 lawn in front, its tastefully formed flower and strawberry 
 beds at the sides, its surrounding domain of paddocks 
 and pastures, divided by hedges of hawthorn and sweet- 
 brier, and with its clustered hay- stacks, corn-ricks, 
 
 M 3 
 
126 ARRIVAL AT HORTON COLLEGE. 
 
 barns, wool-sheds, and outhouses. Almost eveiy house 
 we passed had its garden; and in the very smallest 
 garden would be seen the simple flowers of our child- 
 hood, such as primroses, pansies, cowslips, and daisies ; 
 while the sweet little violet shed its perfume under 
 hedges of ever-flowering geraniums, that were, in some 
 instances, ten feet high. In many of the gardens were 
 seen the English beehive. As we rode through the 
 country, we saw the golden corn waving in the breeze 
 over fields of many acres, or bending to the sickle of the 
 reaper. This seemed strange. It was more like an 
 English New Yearns Day to see signs of holiday and 
 feasting in the towns and villages as we passed through 
 them. And where we stopped to change horses, it was 
 pleasant on alighting to receive from the portly inn- 
 keeper in his doorway the old English greeting of, " A 
 happy New Year to you. Sir ! " 
 
 Some of the trees and the birds in Tasmania render 
 the scene un-English, if you let your eyes dwell upon 
 them ; for here, as in Australia, the gum-trees are indi- 
 genous, and, though evergreen in their foliage, shed 
 their ash-grey bark entirely from boles and branches ; 
 and flocks of green and gold parrots and parroquets 
 flash to and fro in the sun, with their brilliant colours, 
 while swarming crickets, or " locusts " on the leaves, 
 chirp unceasingly their summer song. We passed 
 through Perth, Cleveland, Campbell Town, and Ross, 
 in which towns we saw Methodism had its chapels ; 
 and, in the greater number of towns, I was met and 
 cordially greeted by Methodist ministers resident in the 
 several neighbourhoods. About a mile beyond Ross we 
 reached Horton College, where I alighted to look over 
 our educational establishment there. It is a neat brick 
 
SUNDAY SCHOOL CHILDREN. 127 
 
 building of Tudor style, with stone windows and dress- 
 ings, near to the road, backed by round-moulded hills, 
 and surrounded by arable and pasture lands. It was 
 built at a cost of from four to five thousand pounds, the 
 money being chiefly provided by Captain Horton, a retired 
 merchant sea-officer from Lincolnshire, who lives on his 
 garden and farm opposite. It is a high class collegiate 
 school, accommodating at present some sixty students ; 
 and recently obtained, on Government examination of 
 education in the colony, the most satisfactory commen- 
 dation. The Rev. William A. Quick is its president ; 
 Mr. Fiddian, who so signally distinguished himself in 
 literary examinations and prizes in England, is its 
 head-master; and under him there are other efficient 
 teachers. Only one wing of the building has yet been 
 erected ; when the other wing shall be added, the col- 
 lege will accommodate one hundred students. The 
 villa of Captain Horton is most pleasantly situated 
 among surrounding garden-grounds; and I spent a 
 cheerful evening in company with himself, his wife, the 
 ministers of the neighbourhood, and several intelligent 
 and social friends, who resided in that part of the 
 colony. It was delightful to see the school -children 
 sporting themselves in the surrounding fields, on this 
 their New-Year^s festival, and to hear their merry 
 voices ringing out among the hills the music of their 
 Sunday school ditties and songs, as they went home at 
 sunset, in Captain Horton^s farm-waggons, to Ross and 
 other adjacent places. This, too, was English-like; it 
 reminded one of happy Sabbath school festivities in 
 dear old Yorkshire and Lincolnshire. 
 
 TVed., Jan. 2. — Went forward bv coach to Hobart- 
 Town. The scenery on the second day pleasingly re- 
 
128 TALES OF SPORTSMEN. 
 
 sembled that which I had passed over on the first ; but 
 in some parts, — such as from the descent of " Constitu- 
 tion Hill/' — it was increasingly impressive in boldness 
 and grandeur. We drove through more towns and vil- 
 lages bearing English names ; but in one region of our 
 drive there were hamlets which, from their nomencla- 
 ture, one would suppose had been first peopled by Cru- 
 saders, being called Jericho, and Jerusalem, with the 
 river "Jordan" to water them. In our course, the 
 forests on the mountain -ranges at the sides thickened 
 and darkened ; and we were joined on the coach by some 
 Kangaroo-hunters, and their large Scotch-deer-hound- 
 like dogs. I listened earnestly to the relation of their 
 sports, and to the wonderful accounts they gave of the 
 daring conflicts they and their dogs had braved with 
 their bounding game. They had been on the high 
 table-land, where there are large lakes, — one of them, 
 they said, as much as ninety miles in circumference, 
 and more than three thousand feet above the level of 
 the sea. These lakes form the heads of several rivers ; 
 and are surrounded by extensive plains and forests. 
 Some of the male kangaroos, called "boomers," were 
 described as being four or five feet high, and as having 
 sprung, by the power of their tails and long hinder legs, 
 as much as a dozen yards at a bound. When brought 
 to bay by the dogs, they had fought desperately ; and 
 had placed their backs against the trees, so that they 
 could not be seized from behind. This enabled them, 
 both by mouth and limbs, to deal savagely with their 
 antagonists. Our hunting companions could also tell 
 of opossum-shooting by moonlight, and of the peculiar 
 habits of the " wombat," or native badger. They also 
 proclaimed themselves well acquainted with the haunts 
 
ARRIVAL AT HOBART-TOWN. 129 
 
 of the Tasmanian eagle, which is fearfully destructive to 
 lambs ; — they had seen the emu, or Australian ostrich, 
 running wild ; and talked of shooting-sport with black 
 swans, pelicans, cormorants, and penguins, as well as 
 with hawks and vultures. 
 
 Some of the trees we passed were of gigantic growth, 
 with trunks as much as five or six feet in diameter, and 
 wild flowers and heaths of great luxuriance and beauty 
 were, in parts, spread over the ground, — while orchids 
 and elegantly interwoven creepers gracefully festooned 
 the extending branches. Moths were seen almost equal 
 in size to small birds. The wren, the king-fisher, and 
 diamond-birds of brilliant plumage, appeared at inter- 
 vals. Some of the feathered songsters were musical, 
 yet they were not equal to the singing-birds of Europe ; 
 and, on the whole, the voice of the cheerful magpie, 
 which, instead of the noisy chattering it makes in 
 England, here often seems to mock the flute, was the 
 most pleasing to my ears. Our road lay through 
 increasingly neat towns and hamlets as we advanced. 
 We crossed a lake-like branch of the Derwent river, at 
 Bridgewater, on a sort of tramway, made by convict 
 labour ; and after passing through New Town, with its 
 orphan-schools on the right, and its shops, houses, and 
 places of worship on the left, we descended, among 
 suburban villas and cottages, into the main street of 
 Hobart-Town, arriving at the coach office by about 
 seven in the evening. I found there a group of 
 Methodist friends waiting to welcome me. One of the 
 sons of the late Rev. John Waterhouse, tlie first 
 general superintendent of our Australasian Missions, 
 drove me to his pleasant residence at Sandy Bay, from 
 which I could survey at leisure, and with advantage, 
 
130 ARRIVAL AT HOB ART-TOWN. 
 
 botli the harbour and the town. Here I found the 
 widow of Mr. Waterhouse, residing with her son ; and 
 spent the evening with a company of friends, in answer- 
 ing inquiries concerning Methodism and its supporters 
 in England. 
 
 Thurs., Frid., Sat., Jan. 3, 4, and 5. — Went about 
 Hob art-Town, viewing it from different points ; visiting 
 its museum of Tasmanian animals, birds, and produc- 
 tions of various kinds; and also made excursions to the 
 more picturesque parts around. During these days I 
 had also very pleasant intercourse with our ministers 
 and with Wesleyan friends, — finding here also several 
 Methodists whom I had known at home. Some of the 
 surrounding scenery is fine and romantic, particularly 
 on the drive round Brown's Hill, and from Kangaroo 
 Island. The Government domain, too, is large and 
 imposing, as viewed from the water at the south ; and 
 the Botanical Gardens and Queen's Park adjoining, are 
 extensive and pleasant. On the Friday evening I 
 preached to a good and respectable congregation at 
 Brien's Bridge, about five miles north of the city, from 
 John xiv. 1-3; — dwelling upon the attractions of our 
 Father's house, in which there are many mansions. 
 Tender thoughts of home were present with all of us ; 
 and the service was one of much feeling. It was at this 
 place that the Rev. Joseph Orton, our missionary, 
 preached his first sermon in Tasmania. 
 
 Sun., Jan. 6. — Preached twice at Hobart-Town; 
 and, being the first Sunday in the year, renewed the 
 " Covenant," according to Wesleyan custom. The 
 attendance in the morning and evening was large, and 
 in the afternoon, at the renewing of the Covenant, the 
 lower part of the chapel was well filled. I did not 
 
HOBART-TOWN. 131 
 
 know so many in the congregation, or in the church, as 
 I knew among our people in Victoria: still I knew 
 several of them ; and this day is for ever solemnized by 
 the fact that in it Mr. Dunn, a wealthy banker in the 
 city, and one of our church-members, heard his last 
 sermon ; for he was almost immediately afterwards 
 removed by death to the eternal world. 
 
 Mon.j Jan. 7. — At five in the morning returned by 
 coach to Launceston, to be in readiness to cross Bass^ 
 Straits the next day for Melbourne. 
 
 HoBART-TowN is situatcd on sloping hills, by the side 
 of the broad Derwent water, just where it opens to an 
 immense sea-harbour, and at about forty miles^ distance 
 from the southern boundary of the colony. The city 
 contains nearly twenty thousand inhabitants. It has 
 good, well-paved streets, lined with large shops and 
 stores, and is adorned with public buildings of respect- 
 able character : among them are numerous churches 
 and chapels of the several denominations. The heart of 
 the city — where business is carried on — is on the lower 
 ground near the river ; and cottages, villas, and terraces 
 and gardens cover the sides and crests of seven hills, 
 which bound Hobart-Town. The large harbour is 
 exceedingly safe and commodious, and has many good 
 warehouses at its head. The entrance from the sea 
 southwards is between outlying islands, and by bold 
 rocks and cliffs, with olive green hills of pleasant mould. 
 Hobart-Town, from the harbour near to Kangaroo 
 Point, with its shipping, hills, and buildings, varied by 
 shrubberies and gardens, and backed by Mount Wel- 
 lington, — which, with its grand basaltic columns, rises 
 four thousand two hundred feet high, and casts its dark. 
 
132 NOTES ON TASMANIA. 
 
 solemn shadow over much of the scene from its roots 
 down to the water^s edge, — forms a picture of sombre 
 magnificence^ — especially as seen reflected and doubled 
 in the glassy face of " Sullivan's Cove " in front. It 
 has its markets, newspapers, cab-stands, &c., much after 
 the pattern of English towns of similar size ; and, in all 
 respects, gives unmistakeable proof that it belongs to 
 Great Britain. 
 
 Tasmania is a valuable and attractive colony. In its 
 extreme length it is two hundred and fifty miles, and in 
 extreme breadth two hundred miles ; but in configura- 
 tion it is very irregular. Its general form is that of a 
 heart, with the point turned toward the south; and 
 from the chain of rocky islands running from its north- 
 east angle, over the one hundred and twenty miles of 
 Bass' Straits to Victoria, some express no doubt of its 
 having been, at a former period, a part of the mainland 
 of Australia. Indeed, it is said, that Ben Lomond is 
 the culminating point of the Australian Alps. The con- 
 tents of Tasmania are reckoned to be about twenty-four 
 thousand square miles, or some fifteen millions of acres, 
 making it appear that it is nearly as large as Ireland. 
 There belong to it as many as twenty-three small out- 
 lying islands, some of which are mounted with light- 
 houses, and others are noted for mineral treasures and 
 precious stones. Its surface is very uneven, and dis- 
 plays almost every variety of scenery. The lofty moun- 
 tain, the verdant valley, the wild, bold, rocky shore, 
 extensive sheep-lands and cattle -plains, waving corn- 
 
NOTES ON TASMANIA. 183 
 
 fields, dark unbroken forests, and highly cultivated 
 gardens and pleasure grounds, are all to be found in it. 
 The general character of the island is mountainous, with 
 many lovely valleys between the numerous elevations, 
 rendered abundantly fruitful by rivers and streams, 
 which descend from the high lands, and water large 
 tracts of country in their course to the sea. In the 
 western range of mountains are large subterranean 
 caves, said by those who have seen them to be, with 
 their meeting stalactites and stalagmites, and crystal 
 pillars supporting roofs of immense height, exceedingly 
 grand and sublime. Common English flowers, fruits, 
 and vegetables, flourish in the island ; the plants and 
 trees of almost all quarters of the globe thrive in it ; and 
 scientific men have pronounced its climate to be, at 
 different periods of he year, equal to the climates of 
 France, Switzerland, Italy, and the best parts of the Medi- 
 terranean. On the whole, perhaps, it may be pronounced 
 the most healthy climate in the world, — being never too 
 hot nor too cold. It has abundance of good soil and valu- 
 able timber yet unappropriated, and awaiting the enter- 
 prise of man. Much of its soil is remarkable in fertility ,• 
 and after years of production, without the aid of manure, 
 still yields large crops. Some of its trees are of gigantic 
 size, measuring from two to three hundred feet in 
 height, and being of corresponding girth. The pine 
 and the gum tree attain immense growth ; while the 
 myrtle is not like our small fragrant shrub, but is 
 a large, spreading tree, from fifty to two hundred 
 feet high, in the hollow trunk of which several persons 
 may shelter at the same time. Coal is found in 
 most parts of the colony, and is sold in the market 
 for from thirty shillings to two pounds per ton. Gold 
 
 N 
 
134 NOTES ON TASMANIA. 
 
 has been discovered in several localities, though not 
 in such quantities as to repay the emigrant digger. 
 Other mineral treasures are known to exist in the 
 island ; but no earnest attempt has yet been made to 
 develope them. Its corn ranks among the best in the 
 world, as declared at the Great Exhibition of 1851 ; and 
 its wool commands a high place in the home market. 
 Although, till 1853, it was a penal colony, the convict 
 class hardly form a fourth of its ninety thousand inhabit- 
 ants ; many of the " old hands " having rushed to the 
 diggings across the Straits, when gold was discovered 
 in New South Wales and in Victoria ; and the state of 
 society is such that it is no uncommon thing for persons, 
 even in lonely parts, to leave their doors unlocked when 
 they retire to bed. Many harrowing tales are told of 
 robberies and murders by bushrangers and outlaws; 
 but they are all of past periods, and not of the present. 
 The black aborigines, once so perilous, and who used to 
 come into the towns by fifty together, have dwindled 
 down to some dozen old people, and are protected and 
 supported, in one place, by Government. From its 
 commencement, the colony has been resorted to by 
 settlers of unquestionable respectability. Their gabled 
 cottages and imposing mansions, in the midst of lovely 
 gardens and park-like scenery, have an English aspect 
 which cannot fail to delight the sons and daughters of 
 Great Britain. Churches, chapels, and schools are 
 spread over its fourteen counties, and its two hundred 
 towns and villages. The Church of England numbers, 
 by its comprehensive mode of reckoning all not claimed 
 by other denominations, about one half of the popula- 
 tion ; and on this account receives large Government 
 aid. The Roman Catholics number some seventeen 
 
NOTES ON TASMANIA. 135 
 
 thousand in Tasmania^ and have a seat for their chief 
 prelate in the Legislative Council of the Government. 
 Presbyterians, Independents, Baptists, and most of 
 the Christian denominations in the old country, have 
 their churches and ministers here. Methodism has its 
 network of Circuits spread over the island, and has its 
 chapels, preaching-places, and schools, in every place of 
 importance. The first Methodist sermon preached in 
 Tasmania was by the Rev. Benjamin Carvosso, in 1820, 
 when detained at Hobart-Town on his way to New 
 South Wales he stood upon the steps of the Court 
 House, with Mrs. Broadbent at his side, and warned 
 the sinful people to flee from the wrath to come. Our 
 first regularly appointed missionary here was the Rev. 
 William Horton, a relative of Captain Horton, the 
 generous patron of the college near Ross. Now, we 
 have in Tasmania 69 chapels and preaching-places, 
 supplied by 11 ministers and 46 local- preachers ; and we 
 number 2,000 fully accredited church members, 2,000 
 Sabbath and day scholars, and 6,400 regular attendants 
 on Wesleyan services. In addition to the support of 
 its several agents and institutions for itself, Methodism 
 in Tasmania supplies £1,000 a year for the spread of 
 Missions to the heathen in the islands beyo"nd. 
 
 Since 1856 the government of the colony has, for the 
 most part, been committed to itself; and though some 
 strange things may, at times, have been said and 
 attempted in the Legislative Council and House of 
 Assembly, yet there can be no doubt of the general and 
 hearty loyalty of Tasmania to England. It gave proof 
 of this recently in its noble subscription to the " Patri- 
 otic Fund '^ for the aid of the Widows and Orphans of 
 the Crimean War, of a sum equal to 35*. 8c?. for every 
 
 N 2 
 
136 NOTES ON TASMANIA. 
 
 householder, or of 6s. Sd. for every soul in the colony : 
 a subscription unparalleled, in its proportion, within the 
 British dominions. 
 
 In my way back to Melbourne I gathered additional 
 information on the resources and prospects of Tas- 
 mania from a plain, common-sense man, formerly of 
 Brigg, in Lincolnshire, my own native county. In a 
 comparatively short time, he had, by labour and farm- 
 ing in the northern part of the island, obtained a com- 
 petency for himself and his family. Good, cultivable 
 land can be had there for twenty shillings per acre in 
 the more eligible parts, and for ten shillings where less 
 so. Sheep-farming in the best counties, and on clean 
 runs, is a profitable investment for capital, and returns as 
 much, in some instances, as twenty-five per cent. Cattle, 
 to the number of nearly 100,000, are depastured in the 
 island, and sell for j812, and up to £16, a head. There 
 are in the colony more than 20,000 horses, some of 
 which are of good breed, and fetch large prices. The 
 northern part of the island is more productive of com 
 than the southern, and may be called "the granary 
 of Tasmania." Large exports are made from it by 
 shipping, at its nearer port of Launceston ; and now 
 that the convict system is abolished, and the bad pres- 
 tige of its arrivals taken away from Hobart-Town, it is 
 not improbable that the northern port will be more 
 prosperous than the soiithern. The greater nearness of 
 Launceston to Australia will be likely to favour its 
 growth and prosperity. Immense quantities of fruits 
 and vegetables are sent from Tasmania to Victoria ; and 
 of the total exports from the colony in the year 1858, 
 amounting to considerably more than one million, 
 Launceston made nearly one hundred thousand pounds 
 
RE-PASSAGE OF BASs' STRAITS, TO MELBOURNE. 137 
 
 above half the total sum. Wages for masons, car- 
 penters, plumbers, &c., range from 7^. to 145. per 
 day. Shepherds, farm-labourers, and servants, range 
 from £25 to £60 a year, with rations or living. Beef 
 and mutton range from 4c?. to 8^. per pound ; bread is 
 9d. the four-pound loaf; and tea 2*., or 2*. 6g?., per 
 pound. Wearing apparel and house-rent are both more 
 expensive than in our own country. 
 
 Tues., Jan. 8. — Left Launceston by the " Shepherd 
 King^^ steamer, at ten in the forenoon. We had a 
 goodly number of respectable passengers on board. 
 Our cargo of fruit and vegetables, for Victoria, was also 
 heavy. The weather was fine, and it was pleasant 
 crossing Bass' Straits to-day. 
 
 Wed. J Jan. 9. — Arrived at Melbourne by three in the 
 afternoon ; and spent the remainder of the day in 
 packing up and preparing for departure. 
 
 N 3 
 
CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 Voyage from Melbourne to Sydney — Port Jackson — Reception at Sydney 
 — Opening of the Australasian Conference — Paramatta — Return to 
 Sydney — University — Bible Society Meeting — Beautiful Suburbs and 
 Neighbourhood of Sydney — The last Native — Again to Paramatta — 
 Richmond — Bullock-Drays and Loads of Wool — Splendid View of 
 Sydney and its Harbour — Botany Bay — House of Legislation— Noteo 
 on Sydney and New South Wales — The Australasian Conference and 
 Methodism on the other side of the Globe. 
 
 Thurs., Jan. 10.— About ten in the morning left 
 Sandridge pier, Melbourne, witli ray wife and several 
 of the ministers from Victoria, Tasmania, and South 
 Australia, for Sydney, — where the Australasian Con- 
 ference of Wesley an ministers was to open on the 17tb 
 of the month. The sea-breeze was refreshing after 
 the heat on land, which had been almost suffocating, 
 from the hot wind blowing over the northern interior^ 
 that had recently prevailed. 
 
 Frid. and Sat., Jan. 11 and 12. — We had some 
 tossings at sea, so that many passengers were confined 
 to their berths much of the time. Mrs. Jobson and 
 I escaped sea-sickness, as usual ; but, our cabins being 
 crowded and close, we experienced considerable dis- 
 comfort ; and I had little or no sleep during the whole 
 of our passage from Melbourne to Sydney. Through 
 the roughness of the weather, we had to bear out 
 further to sea than we should have done if it had been 
 
PORT JACKSON. 139 
 
 smoother : so that in the whole of our course of from 
 five to six hundred miles we saw but little of the coast^ 
 and where we saw it the interior of the country was 
 not discernible. 
 
 Sun. J Jan, 13. — Arrived at the "heads'' of Port 
 Jackson by four o'clock in the morning, under dpzzling 
 rain. We wound our serpentine way amidst the hiUs 
 and the islands of the harbour, and reached the quay at 
 Sydney in another hour; but remained on board till 
 seven, when a friend of my youth, the Rev. John Eggle- 
 ston. President of the Australasian Conference, a talented 
 and successful preacher, and Secretary for our Missions 
 in this region, came, together with the Hon. Alex- 
 ander M'Arthur, son-in-law of the Rev. "William B. 
 Boyce, to welcome us ashore ; and Mr. M ^Arthur drove 
 us up in his carriage to his mansion at Glebe Point. I 
 was sorely weary, for want of sleep ; and most of my 
 ministerial companions were unable, from the effects of 
 the voyage, to fulfil their appointments for the day. 
 Knowing, however, that I was expected by the people, I 
 preached at Bourke Street in the morning, and again 
 in the evening at York Street Chapel, and in both 
 instances to large and exciting congregations. 
 
 Mon.j Jan. 14. — Visited, by special invitation, the 
 mansion of Mr. Mort, a gentleman of great taste, who 
 has erected a splendid gothic house at a distance of 
 about two miles from Sydney, on a beautiful hill, over- 
 looking the wide water which runs from the " heads '* 
 to the harbour of the city. The house is stored with a 
 superb collection of pictures by the best masters, 
 brought here from England. I was agreeably surprised 
 to find a mansion of such taste, and so rich a collection 
 of pictures, at such a distance from the old country. 
 
140 OPENING OF THE AUSTRALASIAN CONFERENCE. 
 
 and in this new southern world. The real refinement 
 of the company, who, at Mr. Mori's invitation, had 
 come to view the pictures, was also a surprise to me in 
 this quarter of the globe. The dress, equipages, and 
 bearing of the guests, seemed to me equal to what are 
 found jji connexion with elite gatherings in London; 
 while the views and opening prospects from the sur- 
 rounding balconies and grounds were almost as fine as 
 the Lake of Lucerne, without, of course, the pano- 
 rama of snow-crested Alps beyond. In the evening I 
 attended a large meeting in York Street Chapel, to 
 receive public congratulations from ministers and 
 friends on my arrival amongst them. I found there 
 many whom I had known in England; and nothing 
 could be more respectful and hearty than the welcome 
 they gave me. Many a burst of both British and 
 Methodist loyalty broke forth in the meeting; and 
 much feeling was evinced at the remembrance of scenes 
 at home. 
 
 Tues. and Wed., Jan. 15 and 16. — Most of the time 
 devoted to letter-writing for England, and to social 
 intercourse with friends ; and the remainder of it spent 
 in the " Stationing- Committee '' of the Conference, 
 among representatives from the several colonies and 
 islands of the Pacific, who, at this preparatory meet- 
 ing, sketch out a draft of ministerial appointments for 
 the Circuits, as nearly as possible according to the 
 recommendations of the annual District-committee 
 meetings, to be afterwards modified, or confirmed, by 
 the Conference. 
 
 Thurs.f Jan. 17. — The Conference opened, and con- 
 tinued proceedings until Saturday, February 2nd; 
 during which seventeen days I attended regularly its 
 
PREACHING AT SYDNEY. 141 
 
 sessions, preaching and holding public religious services 
 in the different chapels of the city and neighbourhood 
 on Sundays and week-evenings. At nearly all these 
 services, there were those present who had been in my 
 congregations at home; and some were the sons and 
 daughters of parents I had known intimately. Remi- 
 niscences of early days and associations were affecting 
 beyond expression ; and many whom I had not known 
 before thronged around me at the doors of the vestibule, 
 with inquiries concerning the " fatherland,^^ as if I had 
 been acquainted with all persons in it. The chapels 
 were usually wedged full inside ; and, in some instances, 
 crowded round outside far into the street, or grounds 
 adjoining ; so that in this, the Australian midsummer, 
 the heat was oppressive almost to suffocation. Yet the 
 effects of excessive perspiration and of confined atmo- 
 sphere, upon the preacher, were not what they would 
 have been in England. There is a reinvigorating power 
 in the air of Australia not known here ; and with 
 almost daily services, both protracted and earnest, I 
 experienced nothing of the " clergyman's sore throat,^' 
 nor had scarcely the full ring of my voice at any 
 time impaired. The tunes sung were English; and 
 they were sounded forth with a strength and fulness 
 of voice found only in old Yorkshire. And here, 
 in this elder colony, were a due proportion of aged 
 persons; so that the general aspect of the assemblies 
 was still more British than in the younger colony of 
 Victoria, where but few in the congregations are 
 advanced in years. Indeed, the order, tone, and 
 appearance, at the public services, were so truly English, 
 that one might have imagined they were held in 
 the heart of Yorkshire, Lincolnshire, or Lancashire, 
 
142 PARAMATTA. 
 
 rather than fifteen thousand miles distant from our 
 shores. 
 
 Sat.y Feb. 2. — At six o'clock in the evening went by 
 rail to Paramatta^ which is about fourteen miles west 
 of Sydney, and which is one of the oldest settlements 
 in the colony. The clearings and dwellings in the way 
 did not present much novelty of feature, except that 
 here and there would be seen standing upright in the 
 fields, and around temporary abodes, charred stumps of 
 trees. Mrs. Jobson and I were hospitably entertained 
 at Mr. Byrnes', who with his friendly wife and family 
 spared no pains to make us feel at home in the strange 
 land. We found here the heat more humid, and the 
 musquitoes more troublesome, than in Sydney; but 
 such kind attentions were rendered us, that we could 
 scarcely think of more personal comfort than that 
 which here fell to our lot. 
 
 Sun.y Feb. 3. — Preached at eleven in the Wesleyan 
 chapel of Paramatta to a full congregation ; but was so 
 oppressed with moist heat, that I was scarcely able to 
 proceed with the service. In the afternoon a storm 
 came down on the town, and a deluge of water tore 
 up the streets into gullies, rendering them almost 
 impassable. Preached again in the evening, the heat 
 having somewhat abated; and afterwards, with Rev. 
 John A. Manton, our able superintendent minister at 
 Paramatta, and Rev. D. J. Draper, from Victoria, 
 administered the sacrament of the Lord's Supper to 
 church-members. 
 
 Mon. Feb. 4. — After breakfast, was driven by Mr. 
 Oakes in his carriage through and around the town, 
 alighting at points of interest on our way, and visiting 
 orange orchards belonging to our friend, who drove us. 
 
PARAMATTA. 143 
 
 Paramatta lies in a hollow, screened by the rising 
 grounds about it from the cooling breezes of the sea; 
 and it is this, its low and sheltered situation, which 
 accounts for the steaming heat that at times rises from 
 it. Otherwise, the town, which has in it some four 
 thousand five hundred inhabitants, and mostly old 
 settlers, is good and pleasant ; so much so, that it is 
 quite a place of resort for change and recreation by the 
 residents at Sydney. Paramatta has some excellent 
 buildings, both private and public ; and its main streets 
 have in them good shops and stores ; but its inter- 
 vening gardens and grounds are spacious and numerous, 
 so that a rural character is largely preserved for the 
 town. Many an English oak, planted by early settlers, 
 may be seen in Paramatta, though the tree will not be 
 so large and robust as if it grew in the old country. 
 Oranges and vines are found here growing in abun- 
 dance. Several large structures remain to show that, 
 formerly, when Paramatta was the seat of Government, 
 and a convict settlement, it was a place of importance. 
 Among these are the Government House, with its sur- 
 rounding domain, now deserted ; penitentiaries and pri- 
 sons for refractory criminals also remain, but they are 
 left to fall into decav. The drives around the town are 
 pleasing and picturesque ; the rising lands on every 
 side are carefully cultivated, and tastefully laid out in 
 orchards, and for agriculture. Amidst the more central 
 buildings of the town, rises, with imposing effect, the 
 double-towered church originally built by the lady of 
 Governor Macquarie, for the first and good clergyman 
 of the Church of England in the colony, the Rev. S. 
 Marsden, who so fraternally co-operated with Methodist 
 missionaries for the establishment of Christianity, both 
 
144 RETURN TO SYDNEY. 
 
 in this colony and in New Zealand. The old church, 
 with its leaden spires, is not unlike Southwell minster 
 in its general aspect. And the massive red brick par- 
 sonage of the devoted and laborious clergyman is on the 
 side of the hill west of the church. There is an air of 
 general prosperity pervading the place, and the residents 
 are celebrated for their generous hospitality. Most 
 denominations of Christians have their churches and 
 places of worship at Paramatta. It was an early station 
 with the Methodists. We have two chapels in it, which 
 are soon, it is hoped, to be superseded by larger and 
 more spacious structures. Most of our ministers of 
 public name in Australia have resided here at one time 
 or other. It was here that the devoted and laborious 
 Walter Lawry terminated his missionary life. I saw 
 the broad-eaved cottage in which he died, and also the 
 cemetery on the side of the hill opposite, in which his 
 remains are interred. In his old age scandal was busy 
 against him with her many tongues ; but his name is 
 in this part as ointment poured forth. 
 
 At eleven in the forenoon, Mrs. Jobson and I left 
 Paramatta in the steamer for Sydney, accompanied on 
 our way as far as Ryde by Mrs. Byrnes and her 
 daughter. On driving to the steamer we passed some 
 factories in the valley, at the side of the water, which, 
 from a mile distant, runs as little more than a broad 
 stream through the town. Soon after we started, the 
 river opened out to considerable width. It resembled 
 the upper part of the Thames, between London and 
 Richmond ; only at intervals it was skirted by branches 
 of adjoining forests, and more scooped out into graceful 
 coves and bays. At Ryde we saw large orchards of 
 oranges and lemons, and visited our minister, the Rev* 
 
UNIVERSITY. 145 
 
 R. Amos, resident there. Afterwards, we took another 
 steamer for Sydney ; but before we reached the city a 
 heavy thunder storm fell upon us, and shrouded river, 
 rocks, and trees in dark, solemn grandeur. The wea- 
 ther cleared sufficiently to show us Cockatoo Island, a 
 strongly fortified place of banishment for refractory 
 criminals. Here we crossed the harbour to the landing 
 pier of the capital; and there found our friend Mr. 
 M^Arthur waiting for us with his carriage, to convey ua 
 to the Glebe. 
 
 Tues.^ Wed., Thurs., and Frid., Feb. 5-8. — Devoted 
 to letter-writing, visitation of friends, and of public 
 institutions. One evening was pleasantly spent at the 
 University, where Dr. WooUey, the Principal, gave us 
 and our friends of the Glebe handsome entertainment, 
 amidst his clerical professors and associates. The build- 
 ings of the University are large, richly ornamented in 
 the decorated style of gothic architecture, and are 
 highly creditable to the architect and to the city. The 
 stately hall is nearly equal to the best halls of our col- 
 leges at Oxford and Cambridge, and is rich in effect 
 by its Westminster Hall-like open roof, supported by 
 corbel-angels, and by historic windows of good coloured 
 glass. It has a spacious, well-stored library, a choice 
 museum of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman antiquities, 
 enriched and arranged by Sir Charles Nicholson, and 
 excellent lecture and class rooms. Some j875,000 of 
 public money have been spent upon it ; but the central 
 tower over the principal entrance has yet to be erected, 
 as well as some necessary appendages ; and <£25,000j it 
 is reckoned, will be required to complete it. There is 
 no religious test in the University. Adjoining grounds 
 have been granted by the Government to different 
 
146 BIBLE SOCIETY MEETING. 
 
 Christian deuominationsj upon which to erect colleges 
 for the instruction and training of youth in their 
 respective tenets. But little has yet been done in this 
 direction ; and some fear the results upon youth of the 
 most influential families of the colony thus left un- 
 guarded, by college and religious training, against lati- 
 tudinarian principles. 
 
 Sat. and Sun., Feb. 9 and 10. — Obliged to remain 
 indoors and in bed, by severe illness, arising from over- 
 labour and exhaustion ; so could not go to Maitland for 
 religious services there, as intended. 
 
 Mon., Feb. 11. — Somewhat better. Attended and 
 spoke at a large and spirited meeting of the Bible 
 Society. Our friend, the Hon. George Allen, president 
 of the society, was in the chair ; and I was glad to be 
 able to show and express the catholicity of British 
 Christianity. At this meeting, however, it was appa- 
 rent, that Protestants are under more restraint in 
 speaking of Popery than in the old country. 
 
 Tues, and Wed., Feb. 12 and 13. — Wrote letters, 
 transacted official business with the President of the 
 Conference in the day time ; and in the evenings, by 
 the considerate and generous arrangements of my host 
 and his neighbours, the Aliens, met, in social parties, 
 different classes of citizens and colonists, from the 
 deputy Governor downwards. 
 
 Thurs., Feb. 14. — Was driven to the "heads'' of 
 Port Jackson by Hyde Park, Surrey Hills, and Pad- 
 dington, passing the soldiers' barracks, and several 
 large houses on spacious grounds, possessed by old 
 convicts, or their immediate descendants. Then, by a 
 road over sandy hills and mounds, we drove through 
 a pretty suburb, tastefully named " Waverley." Having 
 
THE LAST NATIVE. 147 
 
 reached the ^' heads," we stood on the shelving edge 
 of the stony cliff beyond the lighthouse, and looked 
 from its dizzy height over the wide water. Before ns 
 lay the entrance to the harbour, with the red floating 
 light within, and hills covered with wood beyond ; 
 while on our right stretched the blue expanse of the 
 Pacific Ocean. I sketched this view from the over- 
 hanging crag of the cliff. We returned by another 
 road nearer the harbour, skirting its bays and coves. 
 It was a charming ride. The drive over hill and dale, 
 and round projections and inlets, diversified the views 
 sweetly. Villas girded with trees stud the sloping hills, 
 and the harbour is dotted in different parts with lovely 
 islands. Beyond these is Sydney, with its towers and 
 spires; and the far background is formed by a long 
 line of blue mountains rising against the sky. 
 
 We passed on the road the last remnant of the 
 aborigines who inhabited this part of the Australian 
 continent. He was named " Kicketty Dick," from his 
 having had a paralytic stroke that disabled his limbs. 
 He sat by the roadside, scantily covered by his dark, 
 tattered blanket, with his hands open in front, solicit- 
 ing alms. He moved, to take up the bit of silver 
 which was thrown to him, with difficulty ; and then 
 crawled into his dog-kennel-like hut among the trees, 
 behind. Food is usually supplied to him from the 
 houses of the gentry near; for, however cruel might 
 be the conduct of the first European settlers to the 
 poor natives, wherever any of the aborigines now 
 remain, they are universally treated with consideration 
 and kindness, so far as their own dispositions and habits 
 will allow. 
 
 On our way back we passed through Darlinghurst 
 
 o 2 
 
148 AGAIN TO PARAMATTA. 
 
 and Wooloomooloo, genteel and healthy suburbs of 
 Sydney. The ground over which we passed in this 
 drive, and which was so generally studded with stately 
 and tasteful houses, was all covered with scrub but 
 five years ago. 
 
 Frid., Feb. 15.— Went with Mr. M^Arthur, at half- 
 past six in the morning, in a light conveyance to Para- 
 matta, where we breakfasted at William s^s excellent 
 family hotel, and then drove to Windsor along a well- 
 made road, seeing good land and farmsteads on the way • 
 several of them being possessed, or let, by the old con- 
 victs. By half-past one we reached Windsor, a village- 
 like town by the Hawkesbury River, consisting of two 
 long streets of shops and cottages, with gardens at the 
 sides. It contains a large Wesleyan chapel, and a 
 massive Episcopalian church of brick, with a plain, 
 spacious Roman Catholic chapel. Driving over swampy 
 ground, through the intervening woods, for four or five 
 miles, we reached Richmond, another town like a large 
 village, with streets laid out at right angles, and none 
 of them paved. It is a pleasant, rural place. The high 
 hills over the Hawkesbury River are covered with dense 
 forest, and are richly picturesque, both in forms and 
 clothing. Beyond these is the long range of the " blue 
 mountains^' with their sugar-loaf points. We intended 
 to have gone further on, for a more extensive view, and 
 to have ascended the green hills; but a storm of 
 lightning and rain set in; so we were glad to take 
 refuge for the night in a rural inn, where we had very 
 comfortable accommodation. 
 
 Sat., Feb. 16. — Left Richmond at half-past seven in 
 the morning, for return to Sydney by another and a 
 less cultivated route. For twenty miles, or more, the 
 
BULLOCK DRAYS AND LOADS OF WOOL. 149 
 
 road, after the heavy fall of rain the night before, was 
 very trying to our horse; for we had to pass over 
 swamps, amidst stumps of trees, and through thickly 
 entangled bush and scrub. Our way lay for some time 
 through the forest. We passed some trees of gigantic 
 size and growth, and heard the odd medley of cackling, 
 bray, and chuckle notes from the " Laughing Jackass.^' 
 The land where cleared was good, and in parts opened to 
 us extensive farmsteads, with numerous cattle, and large 
 flocks of sheep. We overtook several heavily-laden 
 bullock drays with their wool packs, on their way to 
 Sydney. Some of them were dragging their ponderous 
 loads slowly along through the deep ruts of mud 
 roads, and others were resting by road-side inns, and 
 sheltering weary teamsmen stretched out at full length 
 under them for sleep. In some instances, these loads 
 of wool were dragged by eight or ten oxen. The rough, 
 bony, sun-browned men by their side have whips, short 
 in the stock, but with long cow-hide lashes, which, 
 after whirling round their heads, they throw with 
 amazing skill to the extremity of their team of 
 bullocks, so as to hit with fearful certainty any lagging 
 animal on the ear, nostril, or other tender part selected. 
 We rested some time at one of these way-side inns, 
 and saw, while there, much of rough colonial life. We 
 saw the bushman, tall, spare, active, and wiry, canter 
 up the road, and come leaping with loose rein over 
 fences till he reached the inn door, where, with face, 
 hands, and throat burnt to a ruddy bronze, he quenched 
 his thirst. We saw the stocksman, with gaunt frame, 
 long limbs, and weather-worn, seated upon his bony, 
 long-limbed steed, on which he has his home, driving 
 his cattle before him to the stockyard, aided by skilful 
 
 o 3 
 
150 SYDNEY AND ITS HARBOUR. 
 
 dogs. And we saw traveller after traveller enter fot 
 refreshment and for rest. We could not pass further 
 into the interior, as we had intended ; for the recent 
 rain had broken down the roads at several pa-^ts so as 
 to make them impassable. We, therefore, returned 
 to Sydney, reaching Mr. M'Arthur's mansion in the 
 evening. 
 
 Sun., Feb. 17. — Preached again at Newtown, a suburb 
 of Sydney, in the forenoon. The chapel is new and 
 large, and is a good specimen of decorated gothic, 
 mostly taken, in its general design, from our " model 
 chapeV at Stockport, only much increased in dimen- 
 sions. Preached in the Hon. George Allen's neat 
 Grecian chapel on his own estate at the Glebe, in the 
 evening. 
 
 Mon., Feb. 18. — Crossed the harbour of the "North 
 Shore '' in company with a valued friend and able minis- 
 ter from England, the Bev. William Hessel, to view 
 from the highest elevation on that side of the water the 
 landscape of the far interior. It was a wondrous 
 sweep of brown green scrub and forest, with here and 
 there a glint of water in it ; and was bounded in the 
 distance by a long blue mountain range. Turning 
 our backs upon this vision of the wilderness, and de- 
 scending a little, we had, perhaps, the grandest 
 panorama of the capital that can be obtained from any 
 point of view. Down from our feet extended a mass of 
 the dense green foliage which so commonly meets the 
 eye in Australia. Seats and villas of the gentry were 
 scattered among it ; and on the right hand a pretty 
 large collection of houses of the working classes, form- 
 ing what may be termed a hamlet. Then the wide blue 
 waters of the harbour stretched away on either hand. 
 
SYDNEY AND ITS HARBOUR. 151 
 
 with small steamers plying across it to their several 
 points, and with ships of merchandise lying at anchor 
 before Sydney. The land on the other side of the 
 water was composed of a countless number of beautiful 
 and swelling rounded hills, here and there extending 
 their bases into the harbour, so as to make it look like 
 a fringe of indentations. The summits of the terraced 
 hills before us were crowned by the houses, spiral 
 churches, and other public buildings of the city, with 
 the signal flag-staff in front, the government house on 
 the left, and the University in the distance on the 
 right ; the whole forming a panorama of almost unsur- 
 passed beauty. It was from our stand-point on the 
 rocks of the north shore that I sketched the view 
 which forms the frontispiece of this volume. It has 
 been copied as nearly as possible in colours, that my 
 readers may gain some idea of the hues of an 
 Australian landscape ; but this process of art gives 
 a very inadequate representation of the scene. 
 
 Tues,, Wed., Thurs., and Frid., Feb. 19, 20, 21, and 
 22. — Spent in the examination of Sydney and its 
 neighbourhood, in writing letters, transacting public 
 business, and in preaching in the several chapels of the 
 city in the evenings. 
 
 Sat., Feb. 23. — Passed a pleasant day with a large 
 pic-nic party, who accompanied us to the " heads " and 
 the " middle harbour,^^ in a steamer generously obtained 
 for us and our friends of the Glebe and of the Uni- 
 versity, by George Wigram Allen, Esq., who ranks high 
 in the legal profession. This gentleman is the eldest 
 son of Hon. George Allen, and son-in-law of Rev. Wil- 
 liam B. Boyce. The " middle harbour " is even more 
 romantic than Port Jackson, and in bold rocky scenery 
 
..^'^ 
 
 152 '^ SYDNEY MORNING HERALD/^ 
 
 covered with trees and shrubbery, surroundingdeep crystal 
 water, is equal to the finest scenes at the Scotch lakes. 
 
 ^un.j Feb. 24. — Preached in the morning in the large 
 Congregational Church, Pitt Street, belonging to Rev. 
 W. Cuthbertson, B.A., a talented Independent minis- 
 ter: a collection of nearly one hundred pounds was 
 made on behalf of that church. In the evening preached 
 a farewell sermon at Sydney, in York Street Wesleyan 
 Chapel, to an immeuse crowd. The heat was intense, 
 but did not seem to interfere with the fervour of the 
 service. 
 
 Mon.y Feb. 25. — Passed a pleasant morning at the 
 residence of Mr. Fairfax, the energetic proprietor of the 
 "Sydney Morning Herald." The house has a pic- 
 turesque perch on the shoulder of one of the highest 
 hills at the side of Port Jackson ; and is Elizabethan in 
 its style, with high, pointed, wooden gables. It com- 
 mands, from its terraces and grounds, most extensive 
 views of the harbour, city, and inland country. Mr. 
 Fairfax is from Warwickshire, and by intelligent per- 
 severance has made his position one of the most elevated 
 and influential. His newspaper is the "Times" of 
 Sydney and New South Wales ; and out of the fortune 
 amassed by it he has recently expended £30,000 upon 
 handsome freestone offices for the printing and publish- 
 ing of his daily journal. The " Herald" is said to have 
 a circulation of from seven to eight thousand daily, and 
 to be worth to its proprietor .£10,000 a year. It was 
 surprising to see how soon the white sandy soil of his 
 grounds and gardens had become covered with verdure, 
 fruits, and flowers. In the evening met Dean Cowper, 
 with several of the principal clergymen and Noncon- 
 formist ministers of the city, and some distinguished 
 
BOTANY BAY. 153 
 
 official and professional gentlemen, at the Hon. George 
 Allen's^ Toxteth Padt. Mr. Allen had generously 
 assembled these interesting guests, in order to make us 
 acquainted with colonial society. It was a cheerful 
 evening, profitably spent, and closed with religious wor- 
 ship, in which Churchmen, Dissenters^ and Methodists 
 fraternally and audibly united. 
 
 Tues. and Wed., Feb. 26 and 27.— Ill through 
 exhaustion, and not able to leave my bedroom. 
 
 Thurs.j Feb. 28. — Went with my host and Mrs. 
 Jobson to view the world -known " Botany Bay.^^ On 
 quitting the suburbs we crossed '* Lachlan Swamp,^-* 
 where the water filters itself through the sandy soil, and 
 is afterwards collected for the use of the city, and con- 
 veyed thither in pipes. This vast sponge-hollow is a 
 region of snakes and reptiles^ some of which are large 
 and deadly. 
 
 Botany Bay, undeservedly but indelibly branded as 
 the high place of exiled felony, (for it never was occu- 
 pied more than a few weeks as a convict settlement,) is 
 a large round indenture of some miles into the land, 
 with a narrow opening to the sea, a few miles south of 
 the " heads ^^ of Port Jackson. There is a great variety 
 of shrubbery and trees around it, but no remarkable 
 profusion of flowers; yet it was the splendour of its 
 new floral show, as well as I remember the account, 
 which caused Dr. Solander, the companion of Captain 
 Cook, to give it the name of " Botany Bay.^' By the 
 side of it is an hotel, with beautiful grounds, and a 
 curious and valuable menagerie of Australian beasts and 
 birds ; while within the house are preserved the stufled 
 forms of numerous snakes and reptiles. I spent some 
 
154 BALMAIN. 
 
 time in minutely examining these, and in observing 
 their respective peculiarities. This place is much 
 resorted to by the citizens of Sydney in their family and 
 pic-nic parties ; and we were gratified to learn from a 
 board at the entrance of the grounds, that the keeper 
 of the hotel, who is a Wesleyan, closes it against all 
 visitors on Sundays. Lovely as is the scenery skirting 
 the bay, and comparatively near to the capital as it is, 
 yet it has not been chosen for suburban residences. 
 Perhaps the dishonoured designation attached to it has 
 prevented this ; for it would not be the most pleasant 
 association with the name of a gentleman resident 
 there, to have his letters directed from England to him 
 at " Botany Bay." 
 
 In the afternoon of Thursday I went to Balmain, 
 another suburb of the city, across the water, to call 
 upon friends, and to select a cabin for our return to 
 England iil the " Jeddo," which was in an arm of the 
 harbour behind. I had previously been at Balmain, 
 opening a tasteful gothic chapel, designed by Mr. 
 Mansfield, jun., who was also the architect of the excel- 
 lent new chapel at Newtown, in which I preached. We 
 were kindly entertained at the pleasant villa of Bev. B. 
 Mansfield, (father of the architect just named,) who 
 some time since retired from ministerial service among 
 us, but who yet occasionally preaches in our chapels of 
 the city and neighbourhood, and is highly esteemed. 
 We also found, in a rural cottage by the water, the 
 daughter of a family with whom we were intimate in 
 Manchester, and who, with her husband and children, 
 resides here. Our steamship promised well by her 
 appearance ; and on returning to the shore we saw the 
 '^ John Wesley,^^ our tight and buoyant missionary ship 
 
HOUSE OP LEGISLATION. 155 
 
 from the isles of the Pacific, waiting for Eev. James 
 Calvert and his associates, who were expected to be at 
 Sydney in a -few days, from England. On our return 
 from Balmain to the Glebe by water, we fell into the 
 hands of a sharper, who charged seven shillings for 
 rowing us across. In the evening we visited the Exhi- 
 bition of the " Society of Arts," in Pitt Street, and 
 found in it many instructive specimens of the produce 
 of New South Wales. The varieties of wood, and the 
 samples of gold from the colony, were especially inter- 
 esting. Mingled with these were numerous works of 
 art. Those in marble and different metals were excel- 
 lent; but the colonial paintings were very inferior to 
 English. On the whole, however, the exhibition was 
 good, and even surprising, in so distant a part of the 
 world. 
 
 Frid., March 1. — Was driven by the Hon. George 
 Allen to the House of Legislation, and went with him 
 through both the upper and lower chambers ; hearing 
 the debates, and observing, once more, the order and 
 character of the proceedings. Large and handsome 
 buildings are about to be erected by the Government 
 on a new and beautiful site, commanding a view of 
 Port Jackson. The plans approved are upon an esti- 
 mated cost of more than half a million sterling. In 
 the evening I had a farewell meeting in York Street 
 Chapel with the Wesleyan Societies of Sydney, and 
 addressed them on personal piety, family religion, and 
 the duties they had to perform for God and for Method- 
 ism in the land of their adoption. 
 
 Sat., Mar. 2. — At two in the afternoon, after pack- 
 ing up during the morning, Mrs. Jobson and I left the 
 hospitable abode of my good and princely host, the 
 
156 NOTES ON SYDNEY. 
 
 Hon. Alexander M'Arthur, bidding a tender farewell to 
 him, his charming wife, and lovely children, as well as 
 to a large number of ministers and friends, who crowded 
 the pier to witness our departure, in the "City of 
 Sydney " steamer. We left Sydney for Melbourne at 
 three in the afternoon, grateful for the affectionate 
 kindness shown to us during our protracted stay in the 
 capital; and saddened by the thought that, probably, 
 we should see but very few of our friends again on earth. 
 
 I spent full seven weeks in Sydney and its neigh- 
 bourhood, having, as noted in my journal, friendly 
 intercourse with all classes of persons, and free access 
 to all sources of information. It is a wonderful city 
 for situation. The harbour is large and fine, and in 
 capacity, safety, and romantic grandeur, equal to any 
 harbour of the world. It is entered seven miles distant 
 from the capital, by as striking a portal as the coast 
 could possibly supply. The opening from the ocean is 
 two miles wide, between majestic headlands, three 
 hundred and fifty feet high. The passage is then ser- 
 pentine, through what may be called a series of lakes of 
 pure blue water, indented with picturesque bays, and 
 coves, bordered and surrounded with richly wooded, 
 rocky hills, that are dotted and crested with mansions, 
 villas, and cottages, of every variety of form and style. 
 All this part of the water is called "Port Jackson.'^ 
 The foliage on the rocks, hills, and cliffs around, though 
 not as leaden and monotonous as in wholly uncultivated 
 parts, yet is somewhat dull to English eyes ; and lacks 
 the warmer greens, golden yellows, and the rich browns, 
 of our European landscape. It is heavy in colouring. 
 As you proceed, the passage narrows, and numerous 
 
NOTES ON SYDNEY. 157 
 
 lovely islets dot the channel, clothed luxuriantly with 
 trees and verdure. Turning round one island, covered 
 with fort and batteries, that command the entrance at 
 its straitest point, you enter the harbour, which is 
 two or three miles wide, completely landlocked, with 
 good anchorage, and securely sheltered from storms. 
 Here are seen extensive docks, wharves, ship yards, and 
 landing piers, thronged by vessels of various tonnage, 
 while, rising terrace-like above these on hill over hill, 
 and far away on the left and the right, are the buildings 
 of this metropolitan city of the parent colony. 
 
 Not much of the character of Sydney can be seen 
 until you land, and climb your way to the main streets ; 
 but, then, all is so thoroughly English, that the visitor 
 might well suppose he had been by some mysterious 
 power borne over the fifteen thousand intervening miles, 
 and suddenly put down into some familiar part of the 
 British metropolis. George Street, and Pitt Street, — 
 the two long parallel streets running up through the 
 city from near the landing, — are more than two miles 
 long, eighty feet wide, and are enclosed on either hand 
 with handsome warehouses, shops, and stores, equal to 
 anything seen in Liverpool and Bristol. The streets 
 are well macadamized, the pavements at the sides are 
 broad and well kerbed, and the lofty edifices are mostly 
 of clean freestone, taken from the rocky bed of the sites 
 on which they rest. The crowds, the stir, and the gay 
 equipages, would almost lead you to suppose you were 
 in Piccadilly, or Regent Street, of our own metropolis ; 
 while the various public cries of " Fish, ho ! '' " Old 
 clo' ! " the shouts of omnibus conductors for " Pad- 
 dington," " Surrey Hills,'' &c., and the hail from the 
 driver on his perched-up seat behind his " Hansom,'' 
 
 p 
 
158 NOTES ON SYDNEY. 
 
 with stretched-out whip, of " Cab, Sir ? '^ all remind 
 you of dear old London. The only reminders in the 
 streets that you are on foreign ground, are that here 
 and there you see, amidst slender vehicles and gay equi- 
 pages, on the middle carriage-way, a bullock-waggon, 
 dragging its heavy load down towards the quay; and 
 that, on the pathways at the sides, you meet rough, 
 sunburnt men from the interior, clad in loose clothing, 
 bound around the waist with broad buckled straps, and 
 wearing muddy leathern boots, which reach far up their 
 thighs. 
 
 The public buildings of the capital are numerous, and 
 may be favourably compared with those of our second- 
 class cities and towns, if not, in all instances, with those 
 of first rank among us. Some of the more recent 
 structures are as imposing, and as consistent in style, as 
 the public buildings of our principal seaport and manu- 
 facturing towns, and have almost a marble purity in 
 their material. The parks, grounds, and gardens of the 
 suburbs, are large, spacious, and well laid out. The 
 Government domain, with its winding walks amidst 
 rocks and trees by the sea side, is romantic and beauti- 
 ful ; the Botanical Gardens, with their grand Norfolk 
 pines, containing almost every variety of tropical plants 
 and flowers, and in which, as you saunter along, you 
 may hear the military band playing some familiar air, 
 and ending with " God save the Queen," are delight- 
 fully situated around a cove of pure water, where nume- 
 rous pleasure-boats, of various forms and colours, ply to 
 and fro ; and " Hyde Park," though within the city, 
 and poor in trees and verdure, as well as limited in its 
 extent, when compared to our own great western outlet, 
 is, nevertheless, a healthy lung or breathing-place for 
 
NOTES ON SYDNEY. 159 
 
 the citizens, and is surrounded with terraces, mansions, 
 and ecclesiastical structures of striking character. 
 
 Sydney, in itself and immediate suburbs, contains, 
 according to the last census, 92,642 inhabitants. Its 
 climate is hot in summer, but dry and salubrious ; yet, 
 at times, terrific storms of thunder and lightning, rain 
 and dust, sweep over the city, and plough up its roads 
 into deep ruts and trenches. There are also storms of 
 heated dust, which pass over the city, and move like a 
 compact wall across it, darkening the sun, reddening 
 the skyj withering the trees, and making the scorched 
 earth crack under them, as if it were a globe of brittle 
 pottery. These hot dust storms are terrific in their 
 aspect to strangers. One would suppose that the seals 
 of the Apocalypse were being broken, that the day had 
 come which shall " burn as an oven,^^ and that the ele- 
 ments were about to be dissolved with fervent heat. 
 These visitations are called " brickfielders ^^ by the 
 colonists ; I suppose because of the brick-dust swept 
 onwards by them in their course from the brick-fields 
 adjoining, and from their brick-red glare. They bear 
 along with them pulverized, sandy dust, which pene- 
 trates every crevice and key-hole of the most sheltered 
 abodes. At these times, the thermometer rises to one 
 hundred, and more, in the shade, and all things are still 
 and breathless. The " brickfielders " are usually fol- 
 lowed, before the day closes, with " southbusters,^' as 
 they are named, from their coming from the sea at the 
 south ; and then the mercury will suddenly sink down 
 forty or fifty degrees, until fires and great coats seem 
 desirable. One of these "brickfielders'^ passed over 
 Sydney while we were there : when it seemed, as we 
 looked from our balcony at the Glebe towards the city, 
 
 p 2 
 
160 NOTES ON SYDNEY. 
 
 as if the Last Seal were opened, and the destroying 
 angel had received his commission to go forth. It was 
 a scene fit for the tragic pencil of Martin. We were 
 told that sometimes these Australian siroccos last for 
 two or three days, and that then the effects are fearful. 
 Birds drop dead from the trees, insects die, dogs and 
 cattle put out their tongues with burning dryness, and 
 trees and plants shrivel up like bunches of scorched 
 sticks and straws. Scarcely a blade of grass, or a leaf 
 upon a tree, is left ; and human beings fall down dead 
 in the streets. In the interior, bush-fires kindle and 
 burn with fearful fury. Some old colonists affirm that 
 these storms are moderating, as internal cultivation 
 advances. It is to be hoped that it will prove to be so. 
 
 The evenings at Sydney were, at times, singularly 
 beautiful. The moon was so bright and large that you 
 could see to read by it. The stars, too, were brighter 
 and larger than ours in appearance, and seemed to drop 
 like pendent lamps of glittering crystal from the deep 
 blue dome above ; while the flooded light of moon and 
 stars upon the bays and coves of the surrounding har- 
 bour, made them shine like polished mirrors. The 
 change of heat and cold from day to night was some- 
 times sudden ; and, doubtless, the sudden changes in 
 the atmosphere have their effects upon the complexion 
 and constitution of the weaker sex ; for, though bloom- 
 ing earlier, yet they fade sooner than under our cooler 
 and more equal sky. 
 
 Society in Sydney is in the highest ranks nearly as 
 refined and accomplished as in England. A border line 
 is observed between the descendants of convicts and the 
 families of free- settlers, as far as practicable; though 
 in trade and merchandise, where wealth is possessed. 
 
NOTES ON SYDNEY. 161 
 
 society is, of course, as open and free in one case as in 
 the other ; and where special merit has appeared in any 
 one of the proscribed class, the Governor, or some 
 other high official, has led the way in public recognition. 
 I attended the Governor's levee, on the departure from 
 New South Wales of Sir William Denison; and the 
 dress, order, etiquette, and show, could scarcely have 
 been excelled at a royal drawing-room in England. ^ 
 The military and naval commanders, government officers, 
 bishops, professors of the University, clergy, and minis- 
 ters of different denominations, attended in their respec- 
 tive costumes and dresses, and presented a brilliant 
 scene ; while the soldiers, volunteers, and lines of 
 carriages on the government domain, and the regatta 
 boats on the harbour around, were stately and imposing. 
 But there is a lower class of character and life in Sydney 
 as well as a higher. There are " slums '^ and dens of 
 infamy and crime, where the dregs of human corruption 
 seethe, ferment, and break out in terrible violence. There 
 are more than five hundred public-houses in Sydney and 
 its immediate neighbourhood, and some of them are as 
 dark and cellar-like as any that can be found in our 
 own " Wapping," or that could have been found in St. 
 Giles^, while others are as gay and garish as our own 
 street-corner gin-palaces. Drunkenness and gambling 
 are of gigantic strength in Sydney, as at Melbourne, and 
 destroy their victims with fearful rapidity. The "great 
 social evil,'' too, is apparent in the streets, both day 
 and night ; and that though woman's household service 
 here has large remuneration. Thirty, and thirty-five, 
 pounds a-year is a common wage for servant-maids ; 
 and then there are holidays required, and various con- 
 ditions imposed, which are provokingly embarrassing to 
 
 p 3 
 
162 , NOTES ON SYDNEY. 
 
 mistresses of households. Indeed, throughout colonial 
 society there is a freedom of speech and manner sur- 
 passing what exists in the old country. Labourers and 
 servants of all classes speak and act with greater inde- 
 pendence ; boys in the streets shout their ridicule upon 
 " new chums/' as newly-arrived persons are called ; and 
 little children, though not so precocious and assuming 
 as in the United States of America, nevertheless, are 
 ready to assert their '* rights.^' Money is more plen- 
 tiful j and though expenses may be greater, so as to 
 reduce materially real profit, yet the handling of heaps 
 of gold and silver gives conscious importance. 
 
 It is not, however, by the cesspools alone that the 
 character of a city is to be judged, or by its servants, 
 and boys and girls, though these are features not to be 
 overlooked or left out of the account. There are dregs 
 of society everywhere, and always will be while human 
 nature remains fallen and depraved ; and in hot, exhaust- 
 ing climates, these may be looked for. The sun suckles 
 serpents and vipers while it colours flowers and ripens 
 fruit. But in general character, — in its bulk and 
 strength of middle-class, as well as in its higher and 
 lower ranks, — the Society of Sydney is equal to the 
 society of our chief cities and seaports in England. 
 The main drawbacks to my own personal comfort in 
 Sydney, where I was so generously welcomed and 
 hospitably entertained, were, the oppressive heat which 
 for hours in mid-day unbraced the loins of the mind, 
 and prevented pedestrian exercise in the open air ; and 
 the pungent bites of musquitoes, which in the evening, 
 whether in public, social, or private life, come buzzing 
 against your cheek with a peculiar whivj fixing their 
 blood-suckers in the flesh, and then, after drawing their 
 
NOTES ON SYDNEY. 163 
 
 full potion, flying off witli a flutter of triumph, leaving 
 a blotch behind, which, until ripened to a yellow head, 
 is far more irritating than a healing blister. At night, 
 too, unless securely veiled by musquito curtains, these 
 little insect fiends have great pleasure in tormenting 
 you, by darting their truculent proboscis into your flesh, 
 and drawing your blood. And they have evidently a 
 high relish for the round fat part of the hand, from the 
 wrist bone to the little finger. If this part be exposed 
 from under the coverlid for five minutes, it will be sown 
 all over by them with bumps and blisters, not to be 
 forgotten till the next night, if so soon. They, too, 
 like the boys in the streets, have wanton pleasure in 
 vexing " new chums." These, however, are but small 
 drawbacks, comparatively speaking, to the general ex- 
 cellence and advantages of Sydney, as a place for visit, 
 or residence. There is an air of settled comfort and 
 dignity in it, such as we have in our cities at home, and 
 such as is not found, to an equal extent, in the cities of 
 the younger colonies. The "volunteer" spirit is alive 
 in it, as it is also in other parts of Australia. There 
 is now in the colonies a force of more than ten thousand 
 volunteers ; and when I was in the capital of New South 
 Wales, the volunteers were efiiciently performing 
 military duty for the Government in the place of regular 
 regiments shipped to New Zealand to quell the rebellion 
 among the natives. The game of cricket, and other 
 English sports, may be daily witnessed in the suburbs 
 of Sydney. On the whole, it is a large, prosperous, 
 and charming city ; and, though on the other side of 
 the globe, and in the " ends of the earth," has been 
 described as being more English than England itself. 
 An opinion might be expressed on the character and 
 
164 NOTES ON SYDNEY. 
 
 proceedings of tlie Legislative Chambers of Sydney; 
 and a question asked^ If self-government had not been 
 given prematurely to the colonies of Australia ? In the 
 Lower House of the elected representatives of the 
 people, there are demagogues and talkers, who evidently 
 speak for out-door effect, and who say strange things at 
 times, as well as in a strange manner. On one night 
 of my attendance there, I heard an earnest discussion 
 on the proposed abolition of capital punishments for 
 the colony, and which, with a gallery filled with " old 
 hands,^' brought out all the extravagancies imaginable 
 in relation to such a subject ; yet with all the clap-trap 
 employed for popular hearing, there was strength and 
 principle enough in the House to resist and overturn 
 the measure ; and there was an evident respect to 
 England in her firm retention of this law of " death for 
 death," and " blood for blood." And some delicate 
 and manly things were well said, and generally acqui- 
 esced in, on the sacredness of woman^s purity to be 
 preserved from ruffian violation by dread of punish- 
 ment, which were truly creditable to the assembly. It 
 is still an experiment to be tested by time whether 
 universal suffrage, as practically given, is not pre- 
 mature; but with all the spouting by political adven- 
 turers on colonial independence and self-sufficiency, 
 loyalty to British government cannot be doubted ; and 
 some short time since, when a prominent member of the 
 House, of the class referred to, proposed colonial inde- 
 pendence, a resolution of indignation was immediately 
 moved, seconded, and would have been carried, — if the 
 proposition had not been almost immediately with- 
 drawn, — declaring that the proposal was contrary to the 
 views and feelings of the colony, that the paper on 
 
NEW SOUTH WALES. 165 
 
 which it was written should be torn in pieces by a 
 menial, and a sweeper of the House sent for to remove 
 it with its accompanying dust from the floor. The 
 members of the Upper Chamber are now, by nomina- 
 tion from the ministry, in office for life ; and in their 
 position and stake in the country, as well as by their 
 intelligence and independence, are a seasonable check 
 upon the legislation of the colony. My host, the Hon. 
 Alexander M^Arthur, is now a member of the Upper 
 House ; and the Hon. George Allen has long been such, 
 as well as chairman of its committees. 
 
 The Colony, of which Sydney is the capital, is large 
 and prosperous. It was as large as England, France^ 
 and Germany; but in 1859, it had as much as ten 
 times the area of Great Britain separated from it for the 
 new colony of Queensland, which, if supplied with 
 adequate and cheap labour, may become what it has 
 been proclaimed, a future cotton-field for England. In 
 some parts. New South Wales is lovely and picturesque, 
 deserving the name, given to it by Captain Cook, from 
 its resemblance, in his view, to our ancient home prin- 
 cipality. On the sea-side it is garrisoned by high 
 towering rocks, which rise from three to six thousand 
 feet above the level of the water. Within, its arable 
 and pasture-land is extensive and good. It produced in 
 gold, last year, £1,718,194. It has mines of various 
 metals, and of coals, which are rich in produce. It 
 has orange-groves and vineyards, and fruits and flowers 
 of every variety of climate. Grapes of the finest 
 quality are produced in the colony, not only for the 
 table, but also for the manufacture of excellent wine. 
 It is intersected in all directions with excellent roads. 
 
166 NEW SOUTH WALES. 
 
 some of which are " metalled '^ with hard basalt from its 
 own " blue mountains.'^ The royal mail proceeds from 
 Sydney to all towns in the interior, and letters are 
 delivered with punctuality and dispatch. Postage- 
 stamps are here used for letters as in Britain. Stage- 
 coaches run to inland towns, and steamers ply along the 
 coast between different seaports. Telegraph wires com- 
 municate with most places within the colony itself, as well 
 as with the colonies adjoining. Alpacas and llamas have 
 been recently introduced into New South Wales, and in 
 both fat and fleece are equal to the flocks of South Ame- 
 rica. It has large exports of hides, leather, wool, timber, 
 oil, and other merchandise ; and, by the construction of 
 railways, it is opening ready ways to different towns of 
 the interior, not reachable by rivers, and to which there 
 had been but indifferent means of access. It is superior 
 to Victoria in the length of navigable rivers ; but is still 
 Australian in its deficiencies in this respect, and calls 
 for increased attention to inland irrigation, and to the 
 treasuring up of the waters which abundantly fall upon 
 it. New South Wales supplies full employment to all 
 who seek it. Mechanics and artisans obtain twelve 
 shillings and fifteen shillings per day ; labourers, seven 
 shillings and nine shillings : destitute poor, there need 
 be none, except of the sick and blind ; and for these 
 there are suitable institutions provided by the public. 
 
 There is less fluctuation in New South Wales than in 
 Victoria, owing to its being an older and longer estab- 
 lished colony ; but, at times, circumstances occur to 
 disturb and depress its prosperity. The " squatting 
 interests," or large land-holding for sheep and cattle- 
 runs, are at present disturbed by ministerial measures. 
 It is too much to expect that miles upon miles of land 
 
NEW SOUTH WALES. 167 
 
 shall be permanently in the hands of one man, at a 
 small annual rental, when many are waiting to purchase 
 his '^ hold " in divided portions, at a price which will 
 materially increase the government-revenue, and bring 
 the soil into cultivation ; though in all such measures 
 vested interests ought not to be overlooked. Some of 
 the " squatters " have made enormous wealth. One, 
 whom I met in company as Sydney, had netted as his 
 profits in the last year, from a joint hold of land, 
 j81 5,000 ; and others have much larger holds than he 
 and his partners. The " Land-Bill '' just passed has 
 broken in upon the repose of some of these; and in 
 several instances which I heard of, both in Victoria and 
 New South Wales, " squatters ^^ were removing to 
 Queensland, where tempting offers of longer security 
 are made on fourteen years' leases of extensive sections 
 of land. But there is room enough yet in the oldest 
 colony for cattle and sheep-breeding on a large and 
 profitable scale ; and as such it will still be resorted to 
 by energetic and wealthy emigrants. Some of the 
 unexpecting sons of England's nobility are of this class ; 
 and among them are not unfrequently found graduates 
 of English universities, who, in their solitary homes by 
 the forests and the plains, have the best and newest 
 books of British literature for indoor reading, and who 
 con their well-worn copies of Homer, Horace, and Vir- 
 gil, in the open woods and fields. There is also a little 
 uneasiness at present in the gold-regions, through the 
 prejudice of Anglo-Saxons against Chinamen, who, 
 having come over for a season from their own country 
 to the colonies, herd together, and save as much in their 
 living as they can, that they may carry away with them 
 as large an amount of wealth as possible. This is not 
 
168 RELIGION. 
 
 the most favourable service for the colonies ; and the 
 habits of the Chinesemen without wives, or families, 
 are offensive to Britons, while the knowledge of the 
 prejudice of races in the United States of America 
 strengthens the objection to have them in the same 
 neighbourhood. But it is unworthy of Anglo-Saxons 
 and of Englishmen, to disregard the laws of their own 
 government, as they have recently done at Lambing 
 Flat, and to install Judge Lynch for terrifying and 
 expelling the Chinese. Such questions as these may be 
 expected to disturb, at intervals, a rising colony, with- 
 out interfering with its growing advancement and 
 prosperity. 
 
 Religion in this colony, and in its capital, is rever- 
 enced, as it is throughout Australia. Ecclesiastical 
 structures are numerous. Most Christian denomina- 
 tions in the old country have their off-shoot churches 
 here, with their respective ministers. The Church of 
 England has its various ranks of clergy ; but the bishop 
 was sadly chagrined, when I was in Sydney, to find by a 
 legal decision against him in the highest colonial court, 
 that he had not the power of an English diocesan over 
 his clergy, and could be excluded by an objecting 
 clergyman from a church in which it had been published 
 the bishop would hold a service for ordination. Nor is 
 there a disposition in the colony to increase the status, 
 or enlarge the power, of the dignitaries of the English 
 Church. It is not viewed, or intended, to be there 
 " the Establishment.^^ There, as in Victoria and Tas- 
 mania, a growing effort is made, year after year, to 
 abolish State-aid to religion, which, no doubt, will suc- 
 ceed before long. The knowledge that Roman Catho- 
 
RELIGION. 169 
 
 licism is greatly aided and sustained by Government 
 grants^ also^ weighs with many Protestants. Roman 
 Catholicism exhibits large numbers in Australia by emi- 
 grations and removals from Ireland. It is there seen in 
 mitred pomp and state at public assemblies and cere- 
 monies, beyond what usually appears in our home- 
 country. At the levee for the Governor- General, 
 which I attended, the episcopal dignitaries of the 
 Romish Church came in stately carriages, having epis- 
 copal armorial bearings upon them, and attended by 
 livery-servants. Protestants see this, and, knowing 
 how much Popery is there strengthened and supported 
 by Government aid, claimed by it on the census num- 
 ber of adherents, they are willing to make the sacrifice 
 of their own Government grants, and thus leave the 
 false system to stand, or fall, by its own resources. 
 This willingness spreads rapidly through all the Austra- 
 lian colonies, and has already expressed itself in several 
 of them by a majority of votes accordingly. Probably, 
 in a few years, it will prevail in all Legislative Assem- 
 blies there, both in the Upper and Lower Houses ; and, 
 as it has already done in South Australia, will abolish 
 Government aid to religion altogether. The Day- 
 schools of New South Wales are of three kinds, — 
 Denominational, National, and Private. Together, 
 these number 739, having in them 32,840 scholars. 
 The Sunday-schools of the colony number 313, with 
 16,590 scholars. The total grant for ecclesiastical 
 purposes made by the Government in the year 1859 
 was £42,967. Of this, the Church of England had 
 £22,292; Roman Catholics, £12,633; the Presbyte- 
 rians, £4,698 ; and the Wesleyans, £3,109. The entire 
 population for New South Wales is returned at 
 
 Q 
 
170 METHODISM. 
 
 336,573, exclusive of 23,450 separated with Queens- 
 land. The total quantity of land granted, leased, and 
 sold, in the colony, to 15,715 occupants, is 27,663,365 
 acres. The exports for 1859 amounted to ^85,800,926, 
 and the imports to £6,772,049. 
 
 Methodism holds a good and prominent position in 
 Sydney and in New South Wales ; though in Govern- 
 ment returns it does not appear to such advantage as 
 churches which number both moral and immoral, un- 
 claimed by others. It was commenced at Sydney, in 
 1812, by Mr. Thomas Bowden, the worthy father of 
 Mrs. Allen, of Toxteth Park, who in that year formed a 
 Methodist class in the city. The first Wesleyan mis- 
 sionary sent to New South Wales was the Rev. Samuel 
 Leigh, who arrived at Sydney in August, 1814. The 
 first Wesleyan chapel was the one in Princess Street; 
 built and given to the Connexion by Mr. James Scott ; 
 and which still remains in use, with a minister's resi- 
 dence adjoining. This chapel was opened by the Rev. 
 Walter Lawry, in 1819, our second missionary to New 
 South Wales, and the brave pioneer of Methodist 
 labourers in the islands of the South Seas. Now, in 
 Sydney and its suburbs, we have some eighteen chapels 
 and preaching-places, which are mostly well attended, 
 and some of them are of excellent architecture. It has, 
 also, its Methodist Book Room, and its Methodist 
 Journal, which bears the name of "The Christian 
 Advocate and Wesleyan Record." In the colony, 
 Methodism has 35 circuits and stations, 276 chapels 
 and preaching-places, 42 ministers, 178 local or lay 
 preachers, 256 class-leaders, 7,456 Sunday-scholars, 
 taught by 877 teachers, 23,751 attendants on its 
 
METHODISM. ^ 171 
 
 ministry, 3,820 fully accredited churcli-members ; and, 
 besides supporting these agencies and institutions, it 
 supplies £3,000 a year for foreign Missionary work 
 among the natives in New Zealand, and in the islands 
 of the Pacific. 
 
 As already stated, our Annual Conference of Wesleyan 
 ministers, in Australia, was held in Sydney. It opened, 
 as I have said, on the 17th of January, and continued 
 seventeen days. It was held in the York Street Chapel ; 
 and was attended by most of our ministers of New South 
 Wales, by ministers from the colonies of Victoria, South 
 Australia, and Tasmania, and by missionaries from New 
 Zealand and the islands of the Pacific, — some sixty 
 ministers in all. It was a good Conference. It was 
 orderly and dignified in its proceedings, and considerate 
 and satisfactory in its measures. The ministers on the 
 floor of the chapel were, in large proportion, young, as 
 we regard ministers in Methodism ; but they were intel- 
 ligent, gentlemanly, and earnestly attentive to business. 
 In front of them, and also on the platform, were older 
 ministers, who had been the pioneer-labourers in Aus- 
 tralia, and who had their position and cares by years 
 and experience, as they would have in the British 
 Conference. An elder among them was Nathaniel 
 Turner, our first missionary to New Zealand, who there 
 as also in the Pacific Islands, hazarded his life for the 
 name of the Lord Jesus Christ. We had, also, on the 
 platform the Ex-presidents, Manton, Butters, Draper, 
 and Eggleston : all noticeable and impressive men in 
 their persons and countenances, as well as by their 
 missionary labours in earlier and harder times. The 
 Rev. Stephen Rabone, formerly a successful missionary 
 in the South Sea Islands, was the appointed president ; 
 
 Q 2 
 
172 METHODISM. 
 
 the E-ev. Thomas Buddie^ from New Zealand, was elected 
 secretary ; and scattered up and down in the Conference 
 were missionaries and ministers of familiar name, such 
 as Watkins, the appointed president for next year's 
 assembly at Adelaide ; Buller, from New Zealand ; 
 Watsford and Adams, from the islands; — the latter, 
 brother to Professor Adams, of Cambridge, who dis- 
 covered the planet Neptune; — with Ironside, Bickford, 
 Ward, Chapman, Hurst, Harris, Waugh, Binks, Hessel, 
 Waterhouse, Oram, Bigg, Cope, and others, known 
 and loved by many in our part of the world. Though 
 few attendants, compared with the four or five hundred 
 ministers at an English Conference, it was, nevertheless, 
 an affecting and impressive scene. It was only seven 
 years ago that the Rev. Robert Young, my honoured 
 predecessor, the first deputation to Australia, and the 
 Rev. William B. Boyce, our active and devoted general- 
 superintendent, and first president there, who had 
 laboured so efficiently for this object, formed the 
 Affiliated Conference of Australia, and established Meth- 
 odism there for independent government and support ; 
 and now the ministers who could leave their circuits to 
 attend a Conference were, on the platform and scattered 
 over the lower part of a large chapel, a goodly company. 
 They all received me with the heartiest affection, and 
 gave me as cordial a greeting as could possibly be given 
 to a brother by a body of ministers. They evinced 
 strong emotion at the mention of the fathers of the 
 British Conference, and of the love of all their brethren 
 to them. They received the official Address from the 
 British Conference, delivered to them, with marked 
 courtesy and respect ; and they heard an accompany- 
 ing extempore address with attention and signs of 
 
METHODISM. 173 
 
 fraternal gladness. Throughout the entire proceedings 
 they showed the truest veneration and love both for the 
 parent Conference and the Methodists of England. We 
 discussed together^ freely, and at considerable length, 
 vital and delicate questions on the relative position and 
 powers of the parent and the affiliated Conference ; and 
 in all not an ungenerous sentiment, or ungentlemanly 
 word, was spoken. We argued fully the pressure of the 
 large Mission-work upon the colonies, and which amidst 
 financial difficulties bore heavily upon their home-funds 
 and personal comforts, when as fine a flame of mis- 
 sionary zeal burst forth as ever kindled in a missionary 
 meeting at home. 
 
 The Reports brought by the chairman of the districts 
 were very encouraging, and showed that in the southern 
 region of the world Methodism is a mighty power, 
 which is steadily and rapidly progressing. Our intel- 
 ligent and faithful missionaries from New-Zealand told 
 us of the triumphs of the Gospel in their respective fields 
 of labour among a population of nearly 80,000 colonists 
 and settlers, and more than 56,000 native New-Zea- 
 landers. They made known to us that we had 63 
 chapels and preaching-places in the two Districts of 
 Auckland and Wellington, for English worshippers, 
 with 4,787 attendants at public worship, 737 church 
 members, and 1,375 Sunday-school scholars ; while in 
 the native department we have 140 chapels and 
 preaching-places, 154 native local-preachers, 110 native 
 class -leaders, 3,791 scholars, 180 native Sunday-school 
 teachers, 6,247 native attendants at public worship, and 
 1,546 native church members. They spake with sad- 
 ness of the war then raging in New-Zealand ; describing 
 it as being far from the rude, brutal rebellion which 
 
 Q 3 
 
174 METHODISM. 
 
 some supposed ; and said that by misrepresentations of 
 the designs of the British Government npon their 
 lands, a sort of William Tell feeling of patriotism had 
 been roused among them that would not be easily 
 allayed. They told us how Christian natives who had 
 been misled into the conflict, took with them native 
 preachers, and held daily worship in their respective 
 tribes; but rejoiced to assure us, that most Methodist 
 converts, and nearly all our various agents among the 
 natives, had been loyal to the government and throne 
 of Britain. In the interval of Conference-sittings, the 
 Rev. Thomas Buddie gave me some free translations 
 of poetical compositions by native New-Zealanders, — 
 one of which I here subjoin. It was chanted by a 
 blind native at the gathering of his tribe for a korero, 
 or native assembly for discussion on war with the 
 Government. 
 
 " The wind blows keenly, 
 Its blast has sorely pierced me. 
 The stars are hidden from me ; 
 And I tremble like the birds 
 That flutter, when dark clouds 
 Fly across their path. 
 Who has created this night of sorrow 
 That now o'erspreads the land ? 
 Who is he, that conceived 
 This thought of war ? 
 Why does he not return 
 By the same plebeian path 
 That brought him here. 
 Nor dare to tread on sacred ground ? 
 From the councils of the great ones 
 Hast thou come 
 To break our long repose ? 
 Whither wouldst thou lead us ? 
 End now thv strife 
 And leave us pure. 
 
METHODISM. 175 
 
 That we may rest in peace. 
 "Who is the evil spirit 
 That prompts to war ? 
 Bid him keep at distance, 
 Lest maddened by his wiles 
 We fall into the snare of Kongo, 
 The man who came to fetch us. 
 "Withdraw thy stretched-out hand. 
 Return it to thv bosom undefiled — 
 Pollute it not." 
 
 The missionaries from the Friendly and Fiji Islands 
 gladdened our hearts with their reports. They stated 
 that in groups of islands where a few years ago there 
 was not a Christian_, and where cannibalism prevailed 
 in its most fearful forms^ there is scarcely a heathen 
 now to be found. Their returns for the two Districts 
 named^ showed that in them Methodism has 629 
 chapels and preaching-places, 262 native ministers and 
 catechists, nearly 2,000 native school teachers, 34,431 
 day and Sunday scholars, 18,554 native church mem- 
 bers, and 81,410 native attendants on Methodist wor- 
 ship. A letter was read from King George, our local 
 preacher at Tonga, asking counsel on a law of divorce 
 which he found it diflScult to uphold ; and several most 
 interesting topics on Missions were brought before the 
 Conference. It was with gladness the tidings were 
 received at one of our sessions, that the Kev. James 
 Calvert, the friend and companion of the late Rev. 
 John Hunt in Fiji, and a band of ministerial associates 
 from England, had already embarked for the South- 
 Sea Islands, and might be expected there in March or 
 April. Medical assistance is much needed for the 
 missionaries sent to the Friendly and Fiji Islands, and 
 for their wives ; and if such could be supplied, it was 
 stated, missionary labour and life would be prolonged. 
 
176 METHODISM. 
 
 From what I learned of the Rev. Joseph Waterhouse, 
 the chairman of the Fiji District, his disinterested, 
 self-denying, and efficient services, mark him as a 
 worthy son of our first general- superintendent of those 
 Missions. 
 
 The General Summary of returns made at the 
 Australasian Conference of Wesley an Methodism which 
 I attended at Sydney, for Australia, Tasmania, New- 
 Zealand, the Fiji and Friendly Islands, is as follows : — 
 955 chapels, 628 other preaching- places, 175 ministers, 
 775 day schools, 41,565 day scholars, 1,292 Sunday- 
 schools, 62,794 Sunday scholars, 33,964 church mem- 
 bers, and 181,468 attendants on Wesleyan worship. The 
 total amount expended in the year on the Missions in 
 New-Zealand and the Islands was, j6 16,535 ; of which 
 jg5,005 were supplied from our Missionary Society in 
 England, and the remainder from the colonies and 
 from the Mission-stations themselves. Towards this the 
 Islands contributed .£3,000 in net proceeds from oil. 
 
 One reflection forces itself upon the mind on revievr- 
 ing the statistics of our Missions in this part of the 
 world, and that is, — what triumphant encouragement 
 we receive for persevering efibrt, when we sum up the 
 amount of success vouchsafed by God in proportion to 
 the means which the church has hitherto employed for 
 evangelizing the heathen ! This encouragement is given 
 under every variety of human condition and circum- 
 stances, where the church has been earnest and perse- 
 vering in missionary efforts. In Ceylon, for instance, — 
 which I visited on my way, and which may be viewed 
 as a field for experiment in our Eastern Mission, and 
 
METHODISM. 177 
 
 as the stepping-stone to India, — there the religion of 
 Jesus Christ has proved successful in the midst of 
 Buddhism, Hinduism, and devil-worship. The history 
 of our Missions there is briefly this. In 1814, Dr. 
 Coke, the honoured founder of Methodist Missions, and 
 who for his apostolic labours must be ranked among us 
 next to Wesley, after having crossed the Atlantic 
 eighteen times to plant and organize Missions in the 
 West Indies and America, — and after having endured 
 much persecution for his evangelistic efforts among the 
 oppressed negroes, and for his open denunciations of 
 slavery, — sailed from England with a band of six youth- 
 ful missionaries for the East. Bat while crossing the 
 Indian Ocean, he was suddenly removed from the scenes 
 and services of this mortal life to his eternal reward. 
 He was found dead, one morning, on his cabin floor, 
 having died when alone in the night; so that the 
 missionaries who accompanied him, and who had relied 
 upon him as a father, after having with tears committed 
 his body to the deep, had to land at Ceylon without a 
 human guide and friend. In their orphanhood, they 
 betook themselves to their work among the natives, 
 distributing themselves by lot over the island. Since 
 then faithful men have been sent in succession by our 
 Missionary Society, and the result is what I have 
 recorded in an earlier chapter. A net-work of organ- 
 ized churches is spread over the most populous parts of 
 Ceylon. These are under the efficient instruction and 
 training of native teachers and ministers ; and though 
 the influence of corrupt and idolatrous systems is still 
 powerful in the island, yet the leaven of Christianity 
 is in the midst of the native mass, and in due time 
 will, undoubtedly, leaven the whole lump. Here are 
 
178 METHODISM. 
 
 the first fruits of our Missions in India and the 
 East. 
 
 The encouragement vouchsafed to the Christian 
 Church has been still greater in Australia. Within 
 some thirty years Christian missions were commenced 
 there; and amidst the most unfriendly circumstances 
 imaginable. They were commenced among convicts, 
 and among colonists and settlers, many of whom were 
 worse than the convicts committed to their custody. 
 Yet the preachers of the Gospel, sent from time to 
 time, persevered in their evangelistic efibrts, and fol- 
 lowed the population in its progress ; and the result has 
 been such as I have already hastily described. The 
 Australian colonies are Christian throughout ; and 
 though exhibiting, in some respects, revolting forms 
 of wickedness, yet the profession of Christianity is 
 universal, and flourishing churches are everywhere 
 found in them. 
 
 But the most encouraging example is seen in the 
 Islands of the Pacific. There, within little more than 
 thirty years, the principal groups of isles were peopled 
 by barbarous savages and ferocious cannibals ; and now, 
 almost universally, their inhabitants are professing 
 Christians. There, where the Church has shown itself 
 to be earnest in the supply of missionaries, converts 
 have increased and multiplied, until, in the island 
 groups I have named, heathenism has no more place. 
 There cannibalism is so loathed and abhorred, that it 
 is not allowed to be mentioned among the people. There 
 are hundreds of chapels, and hundreds of school- 
 houses, of native workmanship, in which many thou- 
 sands assemble from week to week, and day to day. 
 There the Sabbath is kept holy to the Lord. There 
 
METHODISM. 179 
 
 marriage is established, and polygamy abolished. 
 There an infantine literature is growing rapidly; and 
 there thousands a year are provided by the native 
 churches for the spread of the Gospel into regions 
 beyond. Could any proofs be more demonstrative, 
 that if the Christian churches of England will send 
 forth their messengers in adequate numbers, either to 
 the more refined millions of the East, to European 
 colonists and settlers in distant parts, or to the bar- 
 barous savages of the very darkest regions, success will 
 be realized in proportion to the agency employed? 
 Only let the churches of Christ send an adequate 
 number of missionaries to India, China, the multitude 
 of the isles, and to the interior of Africa, and these 
 heathen regions shall assuredly be evangelized : these 
 realms of sin become the kingdom of our God, and of 
 His Christ ! 
 
» 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Departure from Sydney — Return to Melbourne — House of Legislation — 
 Meetings with Friends and Ministers — Opening of New Churcli at 
 Collingwood — Passage to South Australia — Extreme Heat on Arrival — 
 Visit to Kapimda in a Mining Region — Sabbath Services — Welcome 
 at "Willunga — Vineyards on the Hills — Plains and City of Adelaide — 
 Farewell Breakfast — Notes on South Australia — Western Australia — 
 General Views of the Island-Continent — The Aborigines. 
 
 Sat., March 2. — Pleasant passage down the harbour, 
 in which, gleaming, still and green, at not more than an 
 arm^s depth from the surface, the ravenous shark might 
 be seen. On reaching the " heads,^' and passing into 
 the ocean, we found the weather rough, and the water 
 tossing. Before evening we steamed by the mouth of 
 " Botany Bay ; '' within which, on the north side, we 
 could see the monument raised for M. le Receveur, the 
 French naturalist in Captain CooVs expedition ; and in 
 the boisterous state of the wind and water we could 
 readily perceive how that first chosen harbour was 
 an insufficient shelter for ships, against the roll of 
 the ocean, and was likely to be abandoned for the 
 deeper and safer inlet of "Port Jackson." Soon we 
 bore further out to sea, and, before it was dark, lost 
 sight of land. 
 
 Sun.j March 3. — Sea still rough ; and so many pas- 
 
RETURN TO MELBOITRNE. 181 
 
 sengers confined to their berths, or prostrate on deck, 
 that we could not hold religious services on board. 
 
 Mon., March 4. — Sea smoother. By noon, saw Wil- 
 son's Promontory, with its white lighthouse on a rocky 
 height. We passed between it and the picturesque, 
 stony, off-lying islands. Towards evening it again 
 became rough and stormy ; but we rode finely into the 
 harbour of Port Phillip, by eleven at night. 
 
 Tues., March 5. — By six in the morning we were at 
 Sandridge pier, where the Rev. D. J. Draper met us, 
 and from thence conveyed us to his house at St. Kilda, 
 as our home during our stay at Melbourne. Went to 
 the Parliament Houses, to gain a little better under- 
 standing of the character and proceedings of legislative 
 assemblies for Victoria. The Ij'^pper Chamber is a 
 superb and sumptuous room, as highly decorated, and 
 almost as richly picked out in gold upon its mouldings 
 and ornaments, as any state-room in Paris; and the 
 Council seemed composed of orderly and gentlemanly 
 members. The Lower Chamber is a substantial and 
 stately room ; but not so elaborate in its finish as the 
 Upper. It was crowded at this time to hear explana- 
 tions from a sharebroker, who had retired from the 
 ministry through judgment against him, on a legal 
 trial, for his part in certain business transactions. He 
 explained at length, but feeling was strong against him, 
 and it was afterwards spoken out by members in the 
 opposition. The general aspect of this assembly was 
 inferior to our House of Commons ; but it was superior 
 to that of the Congress at Washington, and fully equal 
 to the Lower House in Canada. The style of speaking 
 which I heard was orderly and creditable. 
 
 Wed.y March 6. — Went over the Methodist Book- 
 
182 MEETINGS WITH FRIENDS AND MINISTERS. 
 
 Room, and the extensive premises adjoining. Drove 
 round the Wesleyans' Emigrant Home, which, at the 
 rush to Victoria, was a welcome asyhim to many ; and 
 visited the Free Library of Melbourne. This library is 
 on an extensive scale, and is in a building of good 
 style. It is open gratuitously to all classes, and for both 
 sexes ; and while much frequented in the evenings by 
 the working-classes, as well as by the higher classes in 
 the day-time, it has never yet been seriously abused. 
 The people view it as their own, and are voluntarily and 
 unanimously its guardians. Already this library pos- 
 sesses an extensive collection of historic works, and its 
 books of all classes are well arranged. 
 
 Thurs., March 7. — Reception-meeting given to me 
 in Lonsdale church. Previouslv, there was a social 
 tea-meeting in the large rooms on the premises, which 
 were thronged in all parts ; while the yards and grounds 
 were covered over with gigs, carts, and waggons, be- 
 longing to friends who had come from a distance. At 
 the reception -meeting in the large church, the E-ev. 
 D. J. Draper occupied the chair; and delivered a 
 manly and thoroughly English speech. An Address 
 was presented to me, supported by speeches from our 
 own and other ministers, by the Hon. A. Eraser, and 
 by J. T. Sumner, Esq., J. P., son of the late Rev. John 
 Sumner, in the home Connexion, and a leading mer- 
 chant of the city. I spoke, in reply,, on the state of 
 religion and Methodism in England, and on what they, 
 whom I represented, desired the Wesleyans of Australia 
 to be. 
 
 Frid.y March 8. — Met the Methodist ministers of 
 Melbourne, and their wives, at Lonsdale Street parson- 
 age, and spent with them some very pleasant hours. 
 
OPENING OF NEW CHURCH AT COLLINGWOOD. 183 
 
 Several of them I had known in the old country ; and 
 the Rev. James S. Waugh, our host, I had been agree- 
 ably associated with on visits to Ireland. He is editor 
 of the " Wesleyan Chronicle '' at Melbourne ; and, as a 
 remembrancer of our meeting in Australia, gave me a 
 precious relic of early Methodism, in the Hebrew Bible, 
 daily used by the Rev. Thomas Walsh, whose extra- 
 ordinary proficiency in the original language of the Old 
 Testament has been recorded by Wesley j where he 
 states, that this early Methodist minister knew every 
 Hebrew root by heart, and could tell how often any 
 given Hebrew word occurred in the Old Testament, and 
 in what place. 
 
 Sat., March 9. — In the morning occupied with pre- 
 parations for departure ; and in the afternoon visited 
 Mr. Webb, sen., of Brighton, in whose spacious gardens 
 we plucked grapes, figs, mulberries, almonds, and vari- 
 ous fruits in abundance. . The scene from the sea- shore, 
 in front of his house, was exceedingly pleasing; and in 
 its long, flat sea-beach, with fishermen, and here and 
 there a lounger from the city, would have suited well 
 the pencil of Collins. 
 
 Sun.j March 10. — Opened a large new gothic Meth- 
 odist church at CoUingwood, by preaching in it, 
 morning and evening. The church, passages, yards, 
 and street adjoining, were thronged; and proofs of 
 God^s healing mercy to sinners were given. The heat 
 of the day was great, and my clothes hung close and 
 heavy upon me through profuse perspiration. This 
 being my last day in Melbourne, I felt stimulated in 
 preaching, by the consideration that my ministry in that 
 city was about to close for ever ; and that, in all proba- 
 bility, I should never again, on earth, see the ministers 
 
 R % 
 
184 PASSAGE TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 
 
 and people who had welcomed me so ardently. Affect- 
 ing home reminiscences, by the sight of familiar faces, 
 strengthened this feeling ; so that, as ofttimes before, I 
 lay awake through the night from intensity of excite- 
 ment and emotion. 
 
 Mon.j March 11. — Left Melbourne at nine in the 
 morning, by the " Aldinga,'^ for Adelaide. Ministers 
 and friends accompanied us to the pier ; gave us 
 tokens of remembrance ; and, lingering till our de- 
 parture, beckoned to us their affectionate farewells. 
 We had a good vessel, and made our way quickly from 
 Hobson^s Bay. As we passed into the open sea, we 
 met a large emigrant ship from England, with five 
 hundred persons, or more, on board. They crowded 
 over all parts of the deck and rigging, eager to catch 
 the first sight of their new home. It was an impressive 
 sight, especially with the consideration of how various 
 and anxious were the thoughts of these emigrants, who 
 had braved the mighty deep, and were now about to 
 set their feet on a strange land. 
 
 Tues., March 12. — Fine day at sea. Coast line on 
 the right, low and flat. In the evening passed Kanga- 
 roo-Island, with its lighthouse, and with bush-fires 
 burning upon it. 
 
 Wed., March 13. — Rose at six, and found that we 
 had advanced far up St. Vincent's Gulf, and were fast 
 approaching Port-Adelaide. Arrived there soon after 
 seven, and felt the heat very oppressive. It required 
 some exertion to get my luggage safely landed ; and 
 though some working men from England, who had 
 known me in Manchester, gave all the assistance they 
 could, yet, by the time I reached the railway-station, 
 I was nearly prostrate with fatigue in the consuming 
 
VISIT TO KAPUNDA. 185 
 
 heat. The thermometer was 107 in the shade, and 151. 
 in the sun. Friends from Adelaide, led by the Rev. 
 William Butters, (formerly known to me at Hibaldstow, 
 in Lincolnshire,) soon arrived by the train to welcome 
 us, and to accompany us on the seven miles' line to the 
 city. We passed over a flat country almost as parched 
 as Egypt, stopping at three or four stations, for small 
 towns and villages in our way, and reached Adelaide by 
 nine. We were driven through the city to Mr. Butters' 
 house, called the " parsonage ; " but I was so faint with 
 heat, that I was hardly able to breathe. We languished 
 through the day, scarcely speaking to our kind host, or 
 to the friends who called to welcome us to South 
 Australia. In the evening we drove out ; but there 
 was little air to feel even in an open phaeton. By bed- 
 time, however, a breeze sprung up from the sea, and 
 there was a cooler night than any of us had expected. 
 
 Thurs., March 14. — Walked through Adelaide, and 
 viewed it from different points. In the afternoon, we 
 went by train to Kapunda, fifty-two miles, — passing by 
 Gawler-Town, — and I preached in the evening to a 
 large congregation in a good gothic chapel. Kapunda 
 is a town produced by settlers in a mining region, which 
 surrounds it, and is not unlike some of the smaller 
 towns in Cornwall. In my congregation I found several 
 Cornish and some Lincolnshire friends. A productive 
 copper mine is the chief attraction of this place, — the 
 land around not being very good. 
 
 Frid., March 15. — Rose early, and looked at Ka- 
 punda and the mining district around. After breakfast 
 left by train to return to Adelaide, having with me the 
 Rev. W. Butters and Aid. Colton. Our train rushed 
 round some sharp turns, but went safely. The country 
 
 R 3 
 
186 SABBATH SERVICES. 
 
 through which we passed was low and stony. Here 
 and there was seen the bed of a river, or a stream, but 
 dried up, and trees were growing in the dry channel. 
 " Water-holes " appeared at intervals, but they seemed 
 to have little water in them. It was thus with Gawler 
 River, which we crossed midway on our return. Bush- 
 fires were raging both on the mountains on our left, 
 and on the fields towards the coast on our right. The 
 land over which we passed seemed scorched to hard 
 sterility ; yet some of it, we are told, was so fertile, 
 that sixteen years in succession it had borne corn, and 
 that without being replenished in vigour by manure of 
 any kind. On our way we saw flour-mills at Gawler 
 town and other places, showing that we were in a 
 grain-producing region. 
 
 Sat., March 16. — Engaged with preparations for the 
 Sabbath, and in writing letters for England. 
 
 Sun., March 17. — Preached in Pierie Street chapel 
 in the morning to a large and attentive congregation, — 
 the yard and grounds of the neighbourhood being 
 covered with the vehicles of persons from the country. 
 In the evening preached in a handsome and crowded 
 spacious new gothic chapel at North Adelaide, with 
 turrets in front, open roof within, and with flying- 
 buttresses at the side. Slept at the Rev. Jabez Water- 
 house^ s, who is our resident minister at North Adelaide, 
 and in all respects worthy of the name he bears. 
 
 Mon., March 18. — Wrote letters in the morning, 
 and in the evening attended an enthusiastic reception- 
 meeting in the chapel at North Adelaide. The Rev. 
 W. Butters, chairman of the district, and deservedly 
 honoured in Australia for his talents and services, occu- 
 pied the chair. This meeting was preceded by a social 
 
WECLOME AT WILLUNGA. 187 
 
 tea, where there were several I had known in England ; 
 as there were, also, at the Sunday services. 
 
 Tues., March 19. — Went to Mr. Padman^s villa, 
 situate in a picturesque suburb two miles from the 
 city, and at the foot of a long range of mountains, 
 where we finished our letters for the next mail; and 
 then enjoyed the pleasant garden and companionship 
 of our friends. Mr. Padman is the son of the late Rev. 
 Thomas Padman, in the ministry at home; and is a 
 prosperous merchant of the city of Adelaide. At night 
 we saw bush-fires raging on both sides. 
 
 Wed., March 20. — Went from Adelaide to Willunga, 
 (which is thirty miles from the capital, in the opposite 
 direction to Kapunda,) accompanied by the Rev. Messrs. 
 Butters and Waterhouse, and their wives. We had a 
 pleasant drive near the sea-coast ; and saw large tracts 
 of good land in our way, and hills well moulded. We 
 passed by several of our country chapels, which were 
 neat gothicized buildings in brick. Abundance of trees 
 were seen in the valley on our left as we approached 
 Willunga, and on a range of hills running out at our 
 right into the sea. Within a mile of the place of our 
 destination, some forty friends on horseback met us, 
 and then turning round preceded us on the road. 
 Opposite our large gothic chapel at Willunga, a high 
 triumphal arch, richly decorated, with evergreens and 
 flags, and with the word "Welcome ^' upon it, spanned 
 the road. On reaching it the horsemen drew up and 
 joined the crowd in a shout of the old English 
 " Hurrah ! '' which made the plains and the hills 
 behind echo and re-echo. After responding to this 
 unexpected salutation, we drove on to Rev. Robert C. 
 Plockart^s, formerly known to me as a hearer at Spital- 
 
188 DRIVE TO IRECOMBE. 
 
 fields Chapel, London, and who is an energetic, suc- 
 cessful minister here. I repaired to the chapel, replied 
 to the Address there presented to me; and after a 
 social tea-meeting, which filled the building, preached 
 to the multitude. Here, also, as in other places, were 
 many hearers whom I had known in England. 
 
 Thurs., March 21. — At half-past nine, left Willunga, 
 accompanied by our friends. On the triumphal arch, 
 the word " Farewell '^ was inscribed in large letters. 
 At the end of thirteen miles, in returning, we rested 
 our horses at a way- side hotel, where some " snapper- 
 fish '* was served up to us : this fish is one of good taste 
 and flavour. We reached Adelaide in the afternoon, 
 having lingered somewhat on the road, to view the sur- 
 rounding country. In the evening, we went up to 
 North Adelaide, and spent the night at Mr. Kain's, a 
 wine-merchant from Guernsey. This gentleman had 
 married the daughter of the Rev. T. W. Smith, minis- 
 ter with us at home. Here we met several intelligent 
 friends ; one of them a relative of the Hardys, a well- 
 known respectable Wesleyan family, of Barrow, in 
 North Lincolnshire. How strange it seemed to find, 
 on the opposite side of the globe, wherever we went, so 
 many whose faces and names were familiar to us ! 
 
 Frid,, March 22.~Went to the Hon. G. M. Water- 
 house's, at Irecombe, to spend the day with the son of 
 our first general superintendent in this part of the 
 world. He is an intelligent and influential gentleman, 
 who has, perhaps, as much power in the colony as any 
 one that can be named, and is chief secretary. He 
 lives twelve miles from Adelaide, on a part of the 
 mountain range, behind the city. To ascend with less 
 difficulty, and to see the country, we went sixteen miles 
 
PLAINS AND CITY OP ADELAIDE. 189 
 
 round^ upon roads which had been cut by hard labour 
 through the rocks and at the sides of the hills. On 
 our way, before we left the plains, we saw some excel- 
 lent land. It was well cultivated ; and at intervals 
 there were deep water- holes in dried beds and channels, 
 in which water is stored for dry seasons, and to which 
 thirsty cattle rush, sometimes to drowning and death. 
 At Irecombe, Mr. Waterhouse has on his estate, pro- 
 fessedly of retirement, vines and other fruit trees, which 
 yield him a large income. We walked with him round 
 his pleasant vineyard, and into his orchards, seeing, as 
 we passed along, birds of gay plumage feeding rapa- 
 ciously upon the fruit. We heard, too, the sweet note 
 of the magpie, which here, as in Tasmania, is musical. 
 Most of the day was spent in conversation on the 
 colony of South Australia; our host being familiar 
 with all its concerns and interests. 
 
 Sat., March 23. — Left Irecombe, and returned to 
 Adelaide, by a more precipitous, but more direct road. 
 On descending the hills, we had before us a view of the 
 vast plains of Adelaide, which I can liken to nothing 
 seen elsewhere. On our left were large, well-rounded 
 hills, covered with blue and purple green vegetation. 
 Before us, and far away to our right, extended a vast 
 level plain, looking at this torrid time of the year like 
 the dried soil of a desert : yet it is a locality of extreme 
 fruitfulness, and produces some of the best grain of the 
 world, as the awards of the National Exhibition of 1851 
 show. The city of Adelaide was in the middle of this 
 plain, but slightly on our left. From the city, onwards, 
 there was the bed of the river " Torrens,^' nearly empty, 
 but the shallow water winding curiously in its deep 
 channel. Then there were the two curving sheets of 
 
190 FAREWELL BREAKFAST. 
 
 glassy water, — St. Vincent^s and Spencer^s Gulfs, — • 
 stretching their lake-like forms from the land to the 
 sea ; and beyond all, skirting the entire panorama, was 
 the great Southern Ocean, bounded by the blue hori- 
 zon; while in our immediate foreground were richly 
 coloured hills, broken by deep rugged cuttings, down 
 which we were driving. On our descent, I sketched 
 this scene, being one of such richly varied features. 
 The afternoon and evening were pleasantly spent with 
 friends at Mr. Colton^s, where we slept. 
 
 Sun.j March 24. — Preached in the morning again at 
 North Adelaide, and in the evening again at Pierie 
 Street. In the evening his Excellency the Governor, 
 Sir Richard Graves McDonnell, attended, with several 
 of his Executive and Legislative Council j but it was 
 difficult to find room for them. It was a day of deep, 
 concentrated emotion, Avhich, combined with the intense 
 heat of the season, seemed to drain the energies of body 
 and soul. 
 
 Mon.j March 25. — Attended a Farewell Breakfast 
 given to us in '^ White's Room," as the large public 
 hall of the city is called ; and met there some four 
 hundred and fifty persons, who paid five shillings each 
 for tickets of admission. The Treasurer of the colony, 
 (formerly a worshipper at City Road, London,) the 
 Hon. G. M. Waterhouse, Mr. Foster, of the " South 
 Australian Register," and several members of both 
 Houses of Legislation, were among the company ; and 
 there were in it some who had been friends of my 
 youth, in Lincolnshire and elsewhere. A Farewell 
 Address was presented to me, and I spoke in reply on 
 Christianity and Methodism, and what Australia might 
 be and do, if faithful to Christ. Afterwards we went to 
 
BOTANICAL GARDENS. 191 
 
 the Botanical Gardens, — which might be called Zoolo- 
 gical, as well, — and observed, with unspeakable interest, 
 the novel forms of Australian and Tasmanian mam- 
 malia and birds. The kangaroo in all its varieties 
 [Macropus giganteus, M. nemoralis^ M. friiticus, &c.) 
 was here ; and I had proof, in their wonderful leaps, of 
 the powerful spring there is in their hind-legs and tails. 
 The marsupial animals, as is well known, are abundant 
 in this far southern world. Among them are some 
 very destructive species, which we saw in these gardens, 
 — such as the pouched wolf, [Thy /acinus cynocephalus,) 
 which the settlers call the '^ zebra wolf," sometimes the 
 " tiger," and at other times the " hyaena." It is a very 
 powerful animal, of the size of a large dog, with short, 
 stumpy legs; its colour is a brownish yellow, with 
 black bands transversely along the back. This creature 
 is found in Tasmania only, and destroys sheep, kan- 
 garoos of the smaller species, and, in fact, almost any 
 living creature which comes within its reach. It is 
 becoming scarce. A more revolting creature is the 
 Dasyurus ursinus — also a carnivorous marsupial. Colo- 
 nists, in Tasmania, where only it exists, at first found 
 it very abundant, and called it the '^ devil," from the 
 havoc it made among their sheep and poultry. This 
 animal is not larger than a bull-terrier, but it has most 
 powerful jaws. It is covered with shaggy black hair, 
 with white bands, or patches, on the chest and shoul- 
 ders. The wombat [Phascolomys fossor) is another 
 Tasmanian marsupial, and is often called the '' badger " 
 by settlers. It was the most comfortable-looking 
 creature we saw, being so exceedingly fat and plump. 
 Its rabbit-like head, also, rendered it a good-humoured 
 looking animal ; and we were told it is sometimes kept 
 
192 NOTES ON SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 
 
 tame. The flesh is also said to be good eating. It 
 burrows in the ground, lives on roots and plants, 
 appears at night only, and is found at times to be a 
 yard long. The birds, in this interesting collection, 
 were rich in variety, and some of them splendid in 
 plumage. The beautiful little " ground ^' and " grass '' 
 parroquets were seen in full perfection. 
 
 Tues.j March 26. — Left Adelaide for the Port of 
 Glenelg, where we were to take the steam-ship for 
 King George^s Sound, — the point of our embarkment 
 for England in the " Jeddo." The distance from Ade- 
 laide to Port Glenelg is six miles. We were driven 
 there in a coach and four, and were accompanied by 
 friends, in their private carriages, who followed us in 
 procession the whole way down to the pier, where they 
 watched our departure in the " Balclutha," and 
 beckoned us " farewell,^^ as long as we were in sight. 
 We left the port at two : the weather was favourable ; 
 and soon we were out of sight from the shore, reflecting, 
 as we paced the deck, that our mission to Australia was 
 finished ! 
 
 From the foregoing notes of Travel in South Aus- 
 tralia, it will have appeared that the colony has in it no 
 bold mountain- scenery to strike the visitor, but is 
 pleasantly diversified with hilly ridges, which enclose an 
 extensive alluvial plain of great fruitfulness. In scarcely 
 any part are there trees growing so thickly together as 
 to assume the forest character, though the ground is by 
 no means devoid of timber. There are three principal 
 mountain ranges, bearing the names of Mount Lofty, 
 
NOTES ON SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 193 
 
 Mount Barker, and Mount Wakefield. These are all 
 well wooded, and the gently undulating grounds and 
 pleasant valleys which intervene between them and the 
 level plain have trees upon them. Nor, with the 
 exception of the lower course of the Murray, is there in 
 the colony any inland water deserving the name of lake 
 or river ; though, as in the other Australian colonies, 
 there is by rain a fall of fresh water upon it almost 
 equal to the fall in England. The great Lake Torrens, 
 of horse-shoe form, and which makes so large a figure 
 upon the map, is merely a tract of soft, muddy ground ; 
 and the river Torrens, shown in some earlier prints of 
 Adelaide as bearing on its bosom ships of war, is not 
 unfrequently so dry a channel that it may be crossed 
 without wetting the feet. Still the colony is prosperous 
 and attractive. It contains an area of 300,000 square 
 miles ; exceeding in its contents all Germany ; and, with 
 its two large gulfs, has a coast-line of nearly 1,500 miles. 
 The climate is exceedingly hot in summer, as noted on 
 the day we arrived ; but then, the evenings, generally, 
 are cool and refreshing ; and the other parts of the year 
 are described as perpetual spring. The plains on our 
 arrival were dry and parched ; but on a slight shower of 
 rain the verdure began to bud, and almost in a day seemed 
 to tinge the soil with tender green : a sufficient indica- 
 tion of what other seasons would produce in clothing for 
 the land. And that South Australia is a prosperous col- 
 ony may be seen from the statistical returns of its steady 
 increase in all departments of commerce and revenue. It 
 has not the discoveries of gold to attract eager multitudes 
 from distant parts, as in Victoria and New South Wales ; 
 but other precious minerals crop through its surface, and 
 yield large returns. It has fifteen mines of copper, lead, 
 
 s 
 
194 NOTES ON SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 
 
 iron, and tin, now at work, which, during the last ten 
 years, have produced in exports upwards of three 
 millions sterling ; and, besides these, large sections of 
 ground, in different parts, have been leased to companies 
 and individuals by the Government, and these leaseholds 
 are known to contain valuable deposits of the various 
 metallic ores. The copper ore commonly yields twenty 
 per cent, of metal, and requires but little labour to 
 obtain it, or take it away. The famous " Burra Burra ^' 
 Mine, about ninety miles north of Adelaide, usually 
 yields twenty-five per cent. ; and the ore found there at 
 times has yielded as much as seventy ; so that its shares, 
 originally purchased at five pounds, are now worth one 
 hundred and fifty pounds. The discoverers and early 
 shareholders of this mine realized large fortunes from 
 it. One proprietor who purchased one hundred original 
 shares at five pounds each, found himself within three 
 years afterwards in the annual receipt of £11,000. The 
 iron ore, in some parts, is so rich that it may be wrought 
 at the forge as soon as taken from the earth. The 
 deposit of soil by the sea, in what are called the plains 
 of Adelaide, is particularly fitted for the growth of corn. 
 It has no trees upon it to be cleared away, and can be 
 worked without renewal, as already noted, for sixteen or 
 eighteen years. South Australia has now as many as 
 seventy-three flour-mills, and the number is continually 
 increasing. The land is well distributed, being sold 
 chiefly in allotments of eighty acres, at twenty shillings 
 per acre. And it is plain, by the yearly increase of cul- 
 tivation of vines, that this colony will eventually become 
 a principal wine-growing colony. Several proprietors 
 already get thousands of gallons a year, and dispose of 
 them at six shillings per gallon, nett. The grapes are 
 
NOTES ON SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 
 
 195 
 
 of the very finest quality, and grow luxuriantly. So 
 that, all things taken into account, while it is not so 
 pretentious and stirring a colony as Victoria, or even 
 New South Wales, yet South Australia is prosperous 
 and attractive. It is, like the other Australian colonies, 
 subject to hot dust-winds from the north, which drape 
 both town and country in a denser and darker livery 
 than a London fog; but these clouds of penetrating 
 impalpable red powder never continue long, being soon 
 swept away by the southern breeze. Bush-fires, too, 
 such as we saw burning on the hills, are common in 
 summer. During the very hot weather the dry grass 
 and scrub ignite from any accident, and flame away for 
 miles, like the grass on the American prairies. The 
 scene at night is threatening to a merely European eye ; 
 but the settlers learn to take little notice of it, unless it 
 come dangerously near to them. The elective principle 
 has here been introduced for the colony. It has two 
 Chambers; — one the House of Assembly, composed of 
 thirty-six members, and the other the Legislative Coun- 
 cil, composed of eighteen members. The executive is 
 vested in the Governor, whose council consists of the 
 heads of departments, having ministerial responsibility. 
 The House of Assembly is elected for three years. The 
 vote is by ballot, and there is no property qualification 
 for the franchise. The population of the colony, by the 
 last census, is 127,000 ; the total imports for a year, 
 £1,639,591; and the total exports, £1,783,716. The 
 total quantity of land sold to the end of 1860 was 
 2,033,761 acres, for which £2,606,605 had been paid 
 by the purchasers, being at the average rate of some 
 twenty-six shillings per acre. 
 
 s 2 
 
196 RELIGION. 
 
 Adelaide, the capital, is a large city, well laid out 
 with wide macadamized streets, that intersect each other 
 at right angles ; and these are well relieved by open 
 squares, and by the surrounding domain of nearly half 
 a mile^s breadth, for the recreation of the people, called 
 the "Park Lands." The metropolis consists of two 
 portions, named North and South Adelaide, which are 
 united by a massive iron bridge that spans the river 
 Torrens, and cost for its erection ^22,000. The shops, 
 stores, and Government buildings, are down in South 
 Adelaide; and private residences mainly cover the 
 higher ground of North Adelaide. Many miles of 
 street have been laid out in the two portions of the 
 city. The inhabitants are more staid and settled 
 in their bearing than in the capitals of the sister 
 colonies; and trade seems to be carried on in a 
 more safe and steady manner. In and about the city 
 there are good public buildings ; and near it there 
 are populous suburbs, clustered pleasingly together, 
 under such familiar names as Kensington, Norwood, 
 and Stepney. Adelaide, lying in the centre of a vast 
 plain, having a radius of several miles in each direc- 
 tion, with park-like suburbs on every side, and richly 
 clothed hills at the back, is a well situated and pleasant 
 capital. 
 
 Religion, both in it, and through the colony, is 
 wholly sustained by the voluntary efforts of the several 
 denominations. No Government money is here given 
 to any section of the Church ; but every community of 
 professing Christians is left to itself. The Episcopal 
 Church is feeble, comparatively. The bishop, in his 
 gabled residence at North Adelaide, is supported by a 
 
RELIGION. 
 
 197 
 
 beneficent endowment from Miss Coutts ; but most of 
 the clergy have to eke out their scanty livings by teach- 
 ing, or by cultivating vineyards. Roman Catholics, too, 
 though said to number seventeen thousand in the colony, 
 having no State aid, are feeble and low. Congrega- 
 tionalists. Baptists, and the Free Church of Scotland, as 
 well as the German Lutherans, have their churches in 
 the capital and in the colony. There are some three 
 hundred Jews in South Australia, who have their 
 synagogue in Adelaide. Methodism is strong and pros- 
 perous here. By the Government returns, it num- 
 bers nearly twice as many attendants at its worship 
 as are found in connexion with any other Christian 
 body. It was the first religious community organized 
 and established in the colony. It was introduced by 
 two excellent men, Messrs. East and Boots, who had 
 worked together at Kingscote, on Kangaroo Island ; and 
 who, in remembrance of Wesley an services at home, 
 had there worshipped God together in their carpenter's 
 shop, with as many as could be induced to join them. 
 Immediately upon the formation of the settlement, and 
 before any house could be erected upon the surveyed 
 allotment of Adelaide, a class-meeting was held by Mr, 
 Abbott, in a rude hut on the bank of the river Torrens. 
 This was the first place of Methodist worship in the 
 city. The next was in the kitchen of the English 
 wooden house of Edward Stephens, Esq., son of the late 
 Rev. John Stephens, known and venerated in British 
 Methodism. In this kitchen, Methodism was first 
 organized in 1837, for Adelaide and South Australia. 
 The foundation-stone of a chapel in Hindley Street was 
 soon afterwards laid by Mrs. Edward Stephens, daughter 
 of the late Mr. Baron, of Hull. The appointment of 
 
 s 3 
 
198 RELIGION. 
 
 local- preachers followed, and, true to the missionary 
 character of Methodism, the services of one of them were 
 wholly given to the Aborigines. Before the end of 
 the year 1838, the Rev. William Longbottom, a Wes- 
 leyan missionary, proceeding from Tasmania to Swan 
 River, was, with his family, wrecked on the coast of 
 South Australia, when he took the charge and oversight 
 of the church thus providentially prepared for him by 
 the previous and voluntary association of the Methodists 
 there. Since then Methodism has continued to advance ; 
 and now, in the colony, there are 138 chapels and 
 preaching- places, 15 ministers, 182 local-preachers, 216 
 class-leaders, 5,952 Sunday- scholars, 3,129 church- 
 members, and more than 20,000 regular attendants at 
 its public services. The total cost of its church-pro- 
 perty has been j£68,000. It has expended upon eccle- 
 siastical buildings during the last year upwards of 
 ^4,000 ; and beyond supporting its ministry and its 
 numerous agencies and institutions within the colony, 
 it supplies, annually, more than J^1,000 for Missions to 
 the heathen in regions beyond Australia. 
 
 TFed., March 27. — The weather cool, and the sea 
 rough. Steamer rolled much ; and a fine horse on 
 board, valued at three hundred pounds, died with fright. 
 The owner was with us, and bore his loss bravely. He 
 was an intelligent, well-informed, extensive land-holder 
 in Western Australia ; and the information he gave me 
 concerning that colony agreed with the previous com- 
 munications received from other intelligent informants 
 who had long known it. 
 
 Western Australia is the poorest and least prosper- 
 ous of all the Australian colonies, and seems to be 
 
WESTERN AUSTRALIA. 199 
 
 almost struggling for existence. Although it is full 
 thirty years since it was founded; is eight times as 
 large as the United Kingdom ; and boasts a coast-line 
 of 4,000 miles ; yet, through mismanagement, and a 
 series of disasters, it has progressed but little ; and its 
 resources are only slenderly known, compared with those 
 of the other Australian colonies. For want of sufficient 
 free labourers it was made, at its own request, a penal 
 settlement in 1850 ; and some whom I conversed with 
 in Victoria are of opinion that this was what seriously 
 checked the immigration of a better class. Others, 
 however, like my experienced friend on board, who had 
 lived there, contend that, if it had not shared the con- 
 vict system, the colony would not have been so far 
 advanced as it is ; and are urgent that a larger number 
 of prisoners and ticket- of-leave men should be sent from 
 the parent-country to Western Australia. From what 
 I saw of the working of the convict system at Albany on 
 my way out, and from what I heard from ministers and 
 friends who had resided in the colony, I should say, that 
 the latter opinion is correct. And, as far as I could 
 learn, for the " banished ones " sent there, the situation 
 and circumstances of Western Australia are most appro- 
 priate. There is no running away, except to starvation 
 and death ; and in the arrangements made for remune- 
 ration and freedom, there is powerful motive for industry 
 and reformation. There are in the contents of this 
 colony strong inducements to emigrants. The general 
 aspect of the scenery is said to resemble what is found 
 on the eastern side of Australia, only the mountains and 
 rivers are upon a less extensive scale. The climate is 
 described as the most healthv known, — the number of 
 deaths reported being surprisingly few in proportion. 
 
200 WESTERN AUSTRALIA. 
 
 There is, I am told, rich loam in " Herefordshire/^ — 
 vaguely known as " the country over the hills," — which, 
 sooner, or later, must be thickly studded with farm- 
 steads, and which in itself would not only produce corn 
 enough for the consumption of all in Western Aus- 
 tralia, but also yield a large surplus. Some express 
 a hope that the rumoured discovery of additional 
 metallic treasure will attract more enterprising persons 
 towards it, and make it less and less dependent upon 
 convict labour. At the end of 1859 there were eight 
 copper and four lead mines being worked in the colony. 
 The " Wheal Fortune " copper mine yields, on the 
 average, twenty-eight per cent, of metal : and the 
 " Geraldine '^ lead mine eighty-four. Horses, which 
 are bred in great numbers, and cattle, with hard, 
 durable timber, are, at present, among its most valuable 
 commodities. The total exports of 1859 show an in- 
 crease of £93,037, against £78,648 in 1858. From the 
 Government returns for the end of 1859, it appears that 
 there was then in Western Australia a population of 
 nearly fifteen thousand ; the increase in five years not 
 having been more than four thousand. About four-fifths 
 of these are Protestants ; but I am informed that the 
 Roman Catholics, from colonial land in their possession, 
 support high-class school establishments, to which Pro- 
 testants send their youth, perhaps, too confidently, for 
 education. The Wesleyans, who in numbers rank next 
 to the Church of England, have two English mission- 
 aries : they are stationed at Perth and York, and itinerate 
 in the surrounding country, preaching in some eleven 
 places of worship ; but from communications received 
 from them, it is plain they have been little encouraged 
 in their isolated fields of labour. 
 
THE ISLAND-CONTINENT. 201 
 
 Thurs. and Frid., March 28 and 29. — Sea calmer, 
 and weather warmer. 
 
 Sat., March 30. — Saw land by three, p.m., and 
 anchored in King George's Sound at eight. 
 
 Sun., March 31. — The " Jeddo'' arrived by half-past 
 seven in the morning. We went on board; saw our 
 cabin, which had been reserved for us from Sydney ; 
 and then were rowed ashore, where we heard a good 
 sermon in the small Episcopal Church at Albany on the 
 Resurrection of Christ, — it being Easter Sunday. After 
 the service, we again saw many natives here with their 
 skin-dresses and spears. By half-past two we went on 
 board the *^ Jeddo," and about an hour afterwards set 
 sail, taking our last farewell of Australian land. 
 
 Our views on this vast Island Continent had greatly 
 enlarged since we touched at King George's Sound in 
 December, 1860, on our way out. We had measured 
 it by travel to and fro in lengths of 500, 600, and 
 1,300 miles in our several stages. We had entered its 
 bays and harbours; had tossed up and down in its 
 straits and gulfs ; and we had rushed along on its 
 railways, or jolted over its plank and " corduroy " roads 
 in the interior. And though we knew when we came 
 the length and breadth of the colony, as being 2,400 by 
 1,700 miles, with a coast-line engirdling it round of 8,000 
 miles; — though we had been told it was nearly equal 
 in superficial contents to all Europe ; that it would hold 
 all its nations; and that if lifted up bodily to be put 
 down against the United Kingdom, it would make 
 a land-passage either to the East on the one hand, or 
 
202 THE ISLAND-CONTINENT. 
 
 from Ireland to America on the other, — yet it was not 
 until we had travelled about and upon it, and had per- 
 sonally observed it for successive hundreds of miles, 
 that we could appreciate its extent. How ancient, or 
 how modern, may have been its origin, we could not 
 learn, with all inquiries concerning its geological forma- 
 tion and structure. The signs of volcanic agency pre- 
 sent themselves in almost all parts; and on the east, 
 especially, the ever-toiling mason insect has built up 
 massive and far-extending reefs of coral, that serve as 
 a vast breakwater against the surge and roll of the 
 Pacific Ocean. Its mountain-system is peculiar. In- 
 stead of running lengthwise with the continent, as in 
 the countries of the old world, — where every range, how- 
 ever tortuous, agrees in general with the length of the 
 country in which it lies, — the mountains of Australia 
 stretch transversely from north to south ; while the 
 Australian continent is longest from west to east. 
 Indeed, if viewed in relation to the scientific theories 
 based upon investigation of the eartVs crust on the 
 northern side of the globe, this " great South Land '^ is 
 full of anomalies and contradictions. And so it is with 
 its animal and vegetable productions. It has black 
 swans, white eagles, quadrupeds with birds' bills, 
 cherries growing with stones outside, and trees which 
 shed their bark instead of their leaves. It is not 
 strictly correct to speak of Australia as " Our Anti- 
 podes ; " for a straight line passing through the earth's 
 centre from us to the opposite side of the globe would 
 emerge at ^^ Antipodes Island," S.W. of New Zealand, 
 and not through Australian territory; but the time of 
 our Jointer is the Australian summer; and while the 
 coldest winds here are from the north, the coolest there 
 
THE ISLAND-CONTINENT. 203 
 
 are from the south. What the interior of Australia is 
 cannot yet he told. Exploring expeditions, with troops 
 of horses and camels, have gone forth to search their 
 way across from south to north ; but up to this time 
 there is a vast blank of knowledge around the inner 
 regions. Whether there be an inland stony desert, 
 from whence the hot winds come charged with their 
 heated dust, or a vast central lake, which produces 
 violent inundations that overwhelm large tracts of 
 country, and swell the rivers with mighty torrents, is 
 not yet known. And hitherto almost each succeeding 
 explorer has contradicted, by personal observation, the 
 conjectures of his predecessor. Stuart's Diary, in his 
 recent expedition, would lead us to conclude that the 
 interior of Australia is, in rich grass land, mountain- 
 ranges, and metallic ores, fully equal to the outward 
 boundaries."^ For full and positive knowledge, how- 
 ever, of the character and contents of the central 
 interior we must wait awhile. But the large extent, the 
 great importance, and the priceless value, of this island- 
 continent on the other side of the globe, to England, 
 and to the world, demand consideration and acknow- 
 ledgment. Here is territory at the ends of the earth, 
 holding in its bosom mineral treasures the most pre- 
 cious, overspread with lands rich and fruitful, and 
 extending through every variety of climate : territory 
 nearly as large as Europe, girdled round with a 
 noble coast-line, full of fine bays and safe harbours; 
 
 * Since the above was written, the testimony of Stuart on the character 
 of the interior of Australia has been confirmed by the Report of the only 
 surviving member of one of the exploring parties referred to in preceding 
 lines. But, alas ! Burke, the enterprising leader of the party, and nearly 
 twenty of his brave attendants, now sleep in the silent wilderness, where 
 they fell through exhaustion. 
 
204 THE ISLAND-CONTINENT. 
 
 situated midway between America and Africa, and at 
 the extremity of Asia, with "the multitude of the 
 isles" scattered over its seas; fast filling with an 
 energetic Anglo-Saxon race allied to Britain by birth, 
 political constitution, and commerce ; and who are 
 there reproducing English homes, English farmsteads, 
 and — beyond any other British dependency — importing, 
 for the increased multitudes, English manufactures.* 
 To Great Britain, such an ally is beyond all calculable 
 value and importance in its situation and worth. Nor 
 is it less important in its moral and religious relations. 
 It is a Christian land, in the midst of dark, idolatrous, 
 and heathen regions. It has already its Bible Societies 
 and Missionary institutions, and is sending forth its 
 agents to surrounding nations and tribes; though, 
 sixty years ago, it was itself but a desert and a wilder- 
 ness, peopled by a few savages. It has in it the 
 inalienable love of British freedom and rights of con- 
 science. It has established in all its colonies the 
 mighty engine of a free press. It is the determined foe 
 of despotism and persecution. And in the great battle 
 of Armageddon, which is as likely to be fought on the 
 other side of the globe where Satan has had his seat so 
 long, as it is on this side, it shall be, if faithful, and 
 " valiant for the truth," among the strongest and most 
 honourable of the agencies employed by Christ in the 
 universal coming of His kingdom. 
 
 Several questions have come more or less under con- 
 sideration in the colonies, which will, doubtless, engage 
 
 * The last returns give for Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand, 
 nearly one million and a quarter of colonists and settlers : two thirds males, 
 and one third females, — the discrepancy in the relative numbers of the sexes 
 being mainly in the newer colonies. The total imports for these are 
 £26,742,686, and the entire exports £23,163,080. 
 
THE ISLAND-CONTINENT. 205 
 
 further attention before they shall be decided ; such as 
 the reduction of the price of waste lands, so as to encou- 
 rage their occupation by settlers, and to bring them more 
 speedily under cultivation, — protective duties on colonial 
 produce, so as to secure for it preference over foreign 
 importations, — the payment of members of the legis- 
 lature, — the reconstitution of the Upper House or 
 Legislative Council, — the entire abolition of State aid 
 to Religion, — the substitution of one Education Board 
 for the present conflicting systems of "National^' 
 and "Denominational," — and the establishment of a 
 Federal Government for the union and benefit of the 
 whole group of Australian colonies. These and other 
 questions are more or less discussed in all the colonies, 
 and will be likely to supply in them topics of popular 
 excitement for years to come. The last-named ques- 
 tion — that of Federal Government — is not so ardently 
 entertained as it was some time ago. In 1857 the 
 question was mooted by the youthful colony of 
 Victoria, and was favourably responded to by the 
 sister colonies, as well as encouraged by the Imperial 
 Government at home. But since then, the colonies 
 have been fully occupied with their own self-govern- 
 ment; and, probably, as time advances, and each 
 colony shall have decided constitutional questions for 
 itself, there will be less and less disposition to surrender to 
 a general and comparatively irresponsible Government 
 power possessed and felt by the colonies separately. And 
 it is a significant fact, that in the recent appointment of 
 a successor to Governor Denison for the parent colony. 
 Sir John Young^s official title is that of " Governor-in 
 chief of New South Wales," instead of "Governor- 
 general," as on previous similar appointments. 
 
 T 
 
203 THE ABORIGINES. 
 
 One enigma presents itself to the reflecting mind in 
 relation to Australia, which a visitor and traveller there 
 like myself cannot escape the consideration of, — that is 
 the fate of the poor Aborigines. A visitor sees 
 remnants of their different tribes in every colony, and 
 one learns everywhere that they are fast fading away 
 both in strength and numbers."^ They are the lowest 
 and most degraded of the human family; have per- 
 sistently withstood all attempts to civilize and Chris- 
 tianize them, and in another generation, probably, will 
 have entirely ceased to exist in the hitherto occupied 
 portions of Australia. Poor, wretched beings ! inferior 
 in figure and feature to untutored Africans. Dark 
 earth-brown in colour; with sloe-black savage eyes 
 widely set against their high cheek-bones and under 
 protruding bushy black eye-brows ; with distended 
 nostrils, wide mouth, broad, pouting lips, matted, long, 
 black hair, shrunken frame, long thin arms, short 
 outspread feet, spindle-legs, bedaubed and greased from 
 head to foot, and without decency and shame. Such 
 were the natives I saw in the different colonies, in their 
 forlorn groups of men and women, — with their sickly 
 children, and lean, hungry dogs ; and though in climb- 
 ing trees, hurling the boomerang, or throwing the 
 spear, they exhibit in their attitudes and movements 
 vigour and grace which would ally them with the great 
 Papuan race, so widely spread over the vast south- 
 eastern hemisphere, and show them to be the descen- 
 dants of an enterprising and skilful people, — yet as soon 
 as they resume their ordinary forms and modes of life 
 and countenance, they exhibit a feeble, dejected, and 
 
 * It is estimated that in all the Australian colonies there may remain oi 
 them some 200,000. 
 
THE ABORIGINES. 207 
 
 dispirited look which tells of wretchedness and destruc- 
 tion. It is reported that in the north, where they have 
 been less disturbed by Europeans, the aborigines are a 
 bold, athletic, and valiant people. It may be so. I 
 suppose from concurrent testimonies on this question it 
 is so. But I can only write of what I saw ; and those 
 which I beheld are among the most feeble and abject of 
 the human family ; and had upon their very frames and 
 looks the signs of dejection and death. 
 
 Laudable and praiseworthy efforts to rescue the dark 
 natives from their impending fate have been made in 
 all the colonies by the Government, as well as by volun- 
 tary associations and benevolent individuals ; but with 
 almost universal failure. Whatever might be the dis- 
 honourable conduct of early colonists, who, for safety 
 or amusement, hunted and shot down this "black 
 game '^ in the woods and forests, no ill-treatment of the 
 aborigines is allowed now, with impunity. On the 
 other hand, paternal tenderness and compassion towards 
 them has in recent times been carried almost to excess. 
 No expense, or labour, has been spared on their behalf; 
 yet they refuse continued association with the civilizing 
 race, and waste away in their own wretchedness. Num- 
 berless instances are quoted of education and employ- 
 ment of the aborigines by European colonists; but, 
 almost in every case, the native child or servant, 
 taught and clothed, has gone back to the wild tribe to 
 which he or she belonged, and sunk back into barbar- 
 ism. In some few instances conversions to God have 
 been known among them; and our Wesleyan Meth- 
 odists, who, like most other Christian communities in 
 the land, organized special Missions for them, have had, 
 in more than one case, religious teachers raised up 
 
 T 2 
 
208 THE ABORIGINES. 
 
 among the natives ; but sooner or later the seed died in 
 the ground^ and brought forth no fruit. A short time 
 before I was at Adelaide, the Legislative Council for 
 South Australia had, in concern for the wasting abori- 
 gines, appointed a special committee to inquire into 
 their state, and into the best means to be employed for 
 their rescue and improvement. The Hon. G. M. 
 Waterhouse was on that committee, and reported to me 
 its proceedings and results, as well as presented to me 
 official documents concerning it. That committee 
 examined the most competent witnesses to be obtained, 
 both Europeans and natives, and found that the rapid 
 decrease of the aborigines was attributable to infanti- 
 cide, the women, or " gins," being unwilling to bear the 
 burden of more than one or two children ; to certain 
 rites performed upon young men of some tribes, impair- 
 ing their physical powers ; to the introduction among 
 them, by Europeans, of more aggravating sensual 
 disease than existed previously; to excess in the use of 
 intoxicating liquors ; to promiscuous intercourse of the 
 sexes among the youth of the natives as well as with 
 Europeans, by which the births among the aborigines 
 were seriously reduced ; and to the great disproportion 
 of males and females in the several tribes. In addition 
 to these causes of diminution in numbers, it was'also 
 explicitly elicited, that the adoption by the natives of 
 semi-civilized habits, such as sleeping in thin tattered 
 blankets, instead of thick and warm opossum rugs, was 
 inducing pulmonary disease, which had become exten- 
 sively destructive and wasting to their lives. The evi- 
 dence supplied gave other fearful glimpses into their 
 state of ignorance and degradation. Cannibalism was 
 more than hinted at. There seemed to be no know- 
 
THE ABORIGINES. 209 
 
 ledge, or idea, of a supreme Being among them, except 
 that of a dark spirit who came forth at night prowling 
 abroad to inflict disease and death. Deeds of treachery, 
 murder, and blood, were referred to, as well as sensual 
 rioting among old and young the most revolting. And 
 the testimonies borne by benevolent labourers for the 
 sinking race, on their own failures and disappointments, 
 were the most disheartening. The doom of this people 
 creates in us afflictive thoughts on the fearful con- 
 sequences of sin to nations ; but the filling of the vast 
 island- continent with a better and prosperous race 
 silvers the edge of the black cloud which hangs over the 
 mind while we think of the Australian aborigines. In 
 God^s counsels concerning nations and tribes we must 
 humbly and reverently acquiesce : " the Judge of all the 
 earth shall do right ! ^' 
 
 T a 
 
nxt C]^Tr"tr. 
 
 EETURN HOME. 
 
RETURN HOME. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Voyage back from Australia to Ceylon — Visits to other Buddhist Temples — 
 Interior and Fort revisited — Farewell to Ceylon — Voyage to Bombay — 
 Caves of Elephanta — Ramble through Bombay — The Parsees — Voyage 
 from Bombay to Aden — Voyage up the Red Sea — Scene of the 
 Israelites' Passage — Arrival at Suez — At Cairo — Loss of Luggage — 
 Arrival at Alexandria — Luggage not found — Departure for the Holy- 
 Land. 
 
 Mon.y April \, to Frid., 12. — Voyage over the Indian 
 Ocean, from King George^s Sound to Ceylon. At the 
 beginning the weather was rough, but our ship sped 
 quickly along. As we advanced, we had the advantage 
 of the trade-winds, and made twelve and thirteen knots 
 an hour. The weather became increasingly warmer as 
 we approached the tropics, and towards the end of our 
 voyage we were within the " doldrums,^^ or contending 
 trade-winds ; so we had doldrum weather, showery and 
 squallish, with moist, '^ muggy '' heat. The thermo- 
 meter ranged, during our voyage, from 70° to 90". Sir 
 
 John D and his lady, friends of our hosts at the 
 
 Glebe, Sydney, were on board. Sir John had been 
 acting for the Chief-Justice in New South Wales, and 
 from some years' residence in the colony, as well as 
 from his associations with courts and officials, increased 
 my information concerning Australian life and society. 
 
214 RETURN TO CEYLON. 
 
 Captain B , also, a retiring police magistrate, was 
 
 with ns, and several " squatters ; ^^ so that there was no 
 difficulty in obtaining any particulars desired in ray 
 inquiry concerning the colonies. Our fellow-passengers 
 joined us devoutly in the religious services of the 
 Sabbath, and were pleasant and intelligent companions. 
 Captain Soames was a good commander of the ship, and 
 the crew were orderly and well-behaved. We reached 
 the harbour of Point de Galle by six on Friday evening ; 
 but as no pilot came to us before sunset, we were not 
 able to enter ; so the ship beat about on the outside of 
 the reefs through the night. 
 
 Sat., April 13. — In the harbour by seven in the 
 morning. Breakfasted on board, but went on shore in 
 the forenoon, and drove up to Bev. John Scott's. The 
 captain reported to us, that his passage from Sydney to 
 Galle was the quickest ever made. 
 
 Sun., April 14. — Preached in the forenoon in the 
 Presbyterian Church, and in the evening in the Wes- 
 leyan Chapel to large congregations ; the majority of 
 our passengers in the " Jeddo '^ being present. 
 
 Mon.j April 15. — Drove into the Fort; and in the 
 evening to Bonavista, where we visited the clergyman, 
 and went to Mrs. Gibson's native school, of which he 
 has the oversight. About thirty native girls are 
 boarded and educated here, and about thirty more 
 attend daily. After sketching the harbour from this 
 point, returned to the Fort, and held a prayer-meeting, 
 at which I addressed a goodly number of persons. 
 
 Tues., April 16. — Went to a celebrated Buddhist 
 temple on a hill in the neighbourhood of Galle. In the 
 house adjoining there were some half-dozen priests. I 
 talked at length with the chief-priest, an intelligent and 
 
VISITS TO OTHER BUDDHIST TEMPLES. 215 
 
 learned man, who made earnest inquiries concerning 
 England and Australia. He led me through his estab- 
 lishment, showed me his collection of pictures and 
 books ; and in the visitors' book, which he kept, were 
 the names of Bunsen, Pritchard, and other celebrities. 
 In his study he had the Scriptures, and some Christian 
 tracts, in Singhalese ; and he fain would have had the 
 use of our Singhalese press at Colombo for the printing 
 of some work on Buddhism which he had prepared. It 
 was explained to him how that could not be allowed 
 with a Christian missionary's press ; and when asked 
 why he and his people, if they believed in their system 
 of religion, did not send missionaries to propagate it in 
 England, he shook his head, and said, the English were 
 too firm and resolute to aftbrd any hope of success ; they 
 were not like the people of the East. At a slight hint, 
 he put on his best saffron robes and sandals ; took his 
 large fan and white handkerchief in his hand ; and stood 
 in his verandah to be sketched. He was a venerable 
 man, of good form and features; but the younger 
 priests who stood around, and eagerly looked on, were 
 not so well favoured. They had a dirty, monkish look, 
 though ablutions and bodily cleanliness are strictly 
 enjoined upon them by Buddhism. The temple adjoin- 
 ing was a hexagon in form, and of moderate size. It 
 was covered with Italian tiles, and had a verandah all 
 round, with hanging lamps. On opening the door, a 
 large yellow figure of Buddha was seen sitting within a 
 glass-case, and having a table for flower-oflferings in 
 front. There were several smaller figures, also within 
 the case; and all over the temple walls, within, were 
 painted yellow-robed figures of Buddha. The priests 
 seemed to set little store by the flower-offerings ; for they 
 
216 INTERIOR AND FORT REVISITED. 
 
 swept them from the table most unceremoniously, to 
 make space for the sketch-book. The court in which 
 the temple stood was, in its enclosure and objects, simi- 
 lar to that at Belligam, described on a former page ; and 
 between it and the dwelling of the priests, was a canopied 
 reading-stand, whence the priest rehearsed the doctrines 
 of his sect from Buddhist books. The whole establish- 
 ment was surrounded by lofty cocoa-nut trees, and -a 
 profusion of foliage. On returning to the Fort I went 
 with Mr. Scott into the civil courts, and was courteously 
 
 invited by Mr. G to sit with him upon the bench, 
 
 and observe the trials. They were conducted through 
 an interpreter ; the hall was crowded with natives ; and 
 the legal practitioners were both natives and burghers. 
 
 Wed., April 17. — Went some miles up the Gindari 
 river, and saw some fine open scenery, with rice paddies 
 at the sides, and natives ploughing with oxen. Buffa- 
 loes were enjoying themselves in the water, as before. 
 The river was of strong volume in several parts, and 
 whirling eddies appeared at its turns ; but our frail bark 
 of native manufacture, sheltered in the middle for us 
 with palm-leaves, was skilfully managed by the 
 Singhalese boatmen, and we went smoothly and rapidly 
 along. Some pleasant villages lay over the fields, both 
 on our right and left; and it was interesting to 
 observe the natives, in their bright and picturesque cos- 
 tumes, going to or from market, on paths across the 
 cheerful green fields. In our river- voyage we purchased 
 oranges, plucked for us from the trees : these fine fruit 
 were indescribably refreshing in the heat of the day. 
 On our return, we breakfasted on curries, kindly pre- 
 pared for us by Christian natives in a bungalow, or rest- 
 house, by the water. 
 
FAREWELL TO CEYLON. 217 
 
 Thurs.y April 18. — In the forenoon had conversations 
 with native ministers and catechists. In the latter part 
 of the day engaged with packing. During the interval 
 of our visits to Ceylon, our clothes, books, and papers^ 
 left there until we should return, had been affected by 
 the moist heat of the atmosphere. Our clothes were 
 found damp and clammy, our books faded in the binding, 
 and our manuscripts and writing-paper morddy and 
 stained. Missionaries, with their books and papers, 
 suffer no little annoyance and loss from this cause. 
 
 Frid.j April 19. — Went down to the Fort, and found 
 that the " Nemesis,'^ for Suez, had already one hundred 
 and fifty first-class passengers, with fifty children, from 
 India, on board, and was also expected at this port to 
 take up passengers from China and Australia, so that 
 she would be fearfully overcrowded, and that down the 
 hot Red Sea passage. We complained of this, after 
 large payment to secure suitable accommodation. An 
 offer was made to us of much better provision, if we 
 would go round by Bombay in one of the Peninsular 
 and Oriental Company's steam-ships, just ready to 
 depart. For health and life, as it seemed to us, we 
 accepted the offer ; and at half-past two in the afternoon 
 took our farewell of beautiful Ceylon, and sailed for 
 Bombay in the '^ Singapore,^' with about sixty first- 
 class passengers. This steamer was smaller than the 
 one we had quitted, but we had a good cabin assigned 
 to us. 
 
 Sat., April 20. — Cape Comorin in view at our right. 
 Sea smooth. Very wartn weather. Cabin close. 
 
 Sun., April 21. — We had service on deck, under a 
 double awning, but it was exceedingly hot. During the 
 day the Malabar coast was in sight. 
 
 XT 
 
218 ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY. 
 
 Mon., April 22. — The sea was still smooth, and the 
 weather very hot and close. The coast on our right 
 kept in view, with several islands, and the picturesque 
 .settlement of Goa, — the Portuguese possession of such 
 bad fame for the doings of the Inquisition. 
 
 Tues., April 23. — Continuance of fine weather, and 
 the Indian coast, with mountains at a distance, more 
 distinctly in view. 
 
 fVed., April 24.— Entered Bombay harbour, by four 
 in the morning. Landed immediately after breakfast. 
 Went to the Clarendon Hotel, and had rooms allotted to 
 us; then to the Peninsular and Oriental Company^s 
 office, to secure a good cabin in the steamer next going 
 out, being anxious concerning the passage down the 
 Red Sea. We drove through the city ; observed that 
 the real Hindoo was larger and stronger in frame than 
 the Singhalese ; and that here the crowd of inhabitants 
 was greater than we had seen in Ceylon. I looked into 
 the houses and shops of the natives, went into their 
 markets, and, as far as allowed, approached the courts, 
 tanks, and interiors of Hindu temples. I was not 
 allowed in any case to cross the threshold of these tem- 
 ples ; but I stood at the doorways, and saw what there 
 was within ; and in some instances the appearance of 
 priests, the daubing upon the idols, and the stalls of the 
 white Brahmin cow, were offensive and disgusting in 
 the extreme. Nor was I allowed to enter what might 
 be called monastic establishments of priests and 
 devotees ; but, for two or three annas, I was permitted 
 to advance to the precincts, and observe the lazy 
 recluses stretched at full length upon their mats. Some 
 of the streets of Bombay are large and wide, with shops 
 and stores at the sides projecting in their upper stories. 
 
BOMBAY AND SUBURBS. 219 
 
 and highly ornamented in wood-carving and colours. 
 In the dark recesses next the streets the natives were 
 seen at work in their several trades and employments, 
 almost naked, as they need to be in the extreme heat of 
 this climate. Parrots and birds of gay-coloured plumage 
 hang commonly at the shop-windows. There are large 
 outspreading suburbs on the land side of the city, 
 studded with luxuriant gardens, mansions, and villas : a 
 spacious park intervenes between the city and the Fort, 
 in which British soldiers and Sepoys parade, and where 
 the elite of the inhabitants and residents drive in the 
 afternoon in their splendid equipages, while the military 
 band plays exhilarating tunes. We observed that, next 
 to Europeans, the Parsees appeared to be the chief per- 
 sons in importance. On returning, we saw in a 
 crowded street a thorough English Jack Tar inflicting, 
 with clenched fists, summary justice upon some natives 
 who had wronged him ; and it was surprising to see how 
 that in the midst of hundreds of stout, large men of 
 India, although alone and single-handed, he struck out 
 right and left, as if with his own pair of hands he could 
 master all the native inhabitants of the city. The 
 Hindoos evidently did not understand such John Bull 
 pluck j and fled on the approach of the English sailor, 
 as if they were children ! 
 
 In the cool of the approaching evening we drove into 
 the outskirts of the city, and along the sea- shore, where 
 spacious mansions, with their tropical gardens, were 
 abundant, and where the more select of British residents 
 and wealthy Parsees were to be seen ; and in our drive 
 we went to a famous Hindu tank and temple, as also to 
 the Parsees^ lofty tower, where they expose their naked 
 dead to be devoured by vultures and ravenous birds of 
 
 V 2 
 
220 CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 
 
 prey. The suburb in which our hotel was situated is 
 named Byculla, and has in it many large mansions, 
 surrounded by extensive gardens, tastefully laid out, 
 and rich in tropical flowers and fruits. In these 
 the Palmyra, Date, and Betelnut palms, towered in lofty 
 and graceful forms, as they did also in other suburbs 
 adjoining the city. The evening sky was pure and 
 brilliant; but in the night we could hear the dismal 
 howls of numerous jackals. 
 
 Thurs.y April 25. — Rose at half-past five in the 
 morning, and went to the Island of Elephanta, to see 
 the celebrated Caves. We were taken in a bunder-boat 
 by half-a-dozen Hindoo sailors, and a most patriarchal- 
 looking captain. Elephanta is about five miles from 
 the pier of Bombay, in an oblique direction over the 
 harbour ; and we had to be carried ashore by natives of 
 the island, because of the shallowness of the water. We 
 then ascended some one hundred and fifty steps, and 
 reached the abode of a pension-sergeant, who had charge 
 of the caves. He went forward with us, about half-way 
 up the mountain, to the front of the principal cave, 
 which was very impressive, and seemed to bring Egypt 
 back before our eyes. It is a huge excavation in the 
 solid mountain rock, — as is well known, — with moulded 
 pillars, and sculptured figures left in stately and bold 
 relief, so as to form a vast solemn temple underground. 
 It is grievous to observe that much of the gigantic 
 sculpture has been wantonly mutilated and broken. 
 The Portuguese have the discredit of this ascribed to 
 them, in their zeal against idolatry ; but whether truly 
 or not cannot be learned. And, certainly, a sense of 
 decency might induce mutilation in some parts, where 
 several of the figures have been made to represent the 
 
CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 221 
 
 sensual impurities of idolatry. We breakfasted in the 
 cave, and, after sketching the view and plan of it, went 
 to look at the smaller caves on the left side. 
 
 The great cave I found to be by measurement one 
 hundred and thirty-three feet long, one hundred and 
 twenty-five feet wide, and seventeen feet high. The 
 roof was supported by twenty-eight pillars and sixteen 
 pilasters, disposed in four rows. Each column stands 
 upon a square pedestal, is fluted, and has a round, 
 richly-moulded capital ; but the shaft, instead of being 
 cylindrical, is gradually enlarged towards the middle. 
 Above the tops of the columns a sort of beam-ridge has 
 been left, running transversely, and is, also, well relieved 
 and ornamented. Along the sides of the huge temple 
 are cut out of the rock from forty to fifty colossal 
 figures ; some of which have helmets, and others crowns 
 upon their heads. Several of them have four and six 
 arms, holding sceptres, shields, and ensigns of religion 
 and peace. At the south end, facing the main entrance, 
 is an enormous bust, nineteen feet high, with three 
 faces, representing Siva in his triple character of 
 Brahma, Vishnu, and Rama,^ — the creator, the pre- 
 server, and the destroyer. To the right and left of 
 these are sculptured figures illustrative of these powers ; 
 and which, for the sake of decency, have been partially 
 broken by axes and hammers. In the cave on the right, 
 and immediately out of the side on the left, are com- 
 partments guarded by naked and helmeted figures, in 
 which are altars, with symbols for worship, ofiensive to 
 modest eyes. The whole design and workmanship 
 shows considerable skill and progress in art. The date 
 of the temple is shrouded in obscurity. Some absurdly 
 ascribe it to Alexander the Great, others to Semiramis ; 
 
 u 3 
 
222 RAMBLE THROUGH BOMBAY. 
 
 but it is, undoubtedly, of Hindoo origin; and, though 
 ancient, not so old, perhaps, as the imposing names 
 which some have connected with it would seem to 
 prove. It is not at present used as a temple; but 
 solitary devotees make pilgrimages to it, and offer their 
 prayers and oblations within it. The smaller excava- 
 tions, on the left side of the mountain, are of the same 
 character, but are to be described as chambers rather 
 than temples ; though, from the remnants of altars, and 
 guardian figures upon the doorways, there can be no 
 doubt of their intended use. 
 
 We returned at noon to our bunder-boat, and had to 
 be carried to it by the natives through the shoal water. 
 The wind was now strong, so we had to tack about a 
 great deal, and pass Butcher-island, where a mutinous 
 Rajah is confined. On another island which we passed 
 is a very beautiful white mosque. In the afternoon 
 went and sketched, near the railway station, a modern 
 Hindu temple, where there is a college of priests, and 
 large gardens. On returning to our hotel, by a retired 
 walk through the suburbs, we saw palm-trees tapped at 
 the top, and by incisions in the stumps, for " toddy," 
 or intoxicating liquor, which, when distilled, is called 
 " arrack." The daring and the agility of the natives in 
 climbing these lofty, slender trees, surprise Europeans. 
 The musquitoes were tormentors here, but not so nume- 
 rously as in some places where we had previously been ; 
 and during the day we had caught frequent sight of 
 lizards and serpents. 
 
 Frid.j April 26. — Before breakfast visited and sketched 
 another Hindu temple. It was more ancient than the 
 other, and was coloured white, with red lines in its 
 recesses. Several priests were attached to it, and on its 
 
RAMBLE THROUGH BOMBAY. 223 
 
 stairs, with outstretched hands, performed their morning 
 devotions. After breakfast, drove to the Peninsular and 
 Oriental Company's office, and found a good cabin 
 allotted to us in the ^^Orissa^' steam-ship, which was 
 to leave the next day for Suez. The remainder of 
 
 the day was spent in company with Mr. K , the 
 
 proprietor of the " Bombay Times and Standard,^' 
 whose friends I had known in Lambeth, and who, from 
 a return list of visitors, had discovered our presence in 
 the city. He showed us the chief places and objects 
 of interest in Bombay, and its extensive suburbs, and 
 explained to us much of East Indian life and society. 
 The Fort we found to be the principal place of mer- 
 chandise, having in its crowded, narrow streets, bazaars, 
 stores, and other warehouses. The town-hall, museum, 
 and library, are large and creditable institutions on one 
 side of the " Green,'' as a central open space is desig- 
 nated ; and on the other sides are the Mint and 
 Government offices. Huge bales of cotton strewed the 
 piers and quays, ready for shipment to England ; and I 
 was informed that about one hundred millions of pounds 
 of cotton were sent annually from that port to Great 
 Britain, and about half the weight to China. It was 
 interesting, on passing the shops, to see the natives 
 working in gold and silver, and at their beautiful inlaid 
 articles. On leaving the Fort we crossed draw-bridges, 
 passed over the esplanade, where soldiers and citizens 
 were promenading, and entered again the main 
 thoroughfare of the city, observing, at the corner on 
 our right, a good depot of the British and Foreign Bible 
 Society, with adjoining printing-rooms. The streets 
 were thronged with natives, both in dress and undress ; 
 and in different parts we alighted to view Hindu temples 
 
224 THE PARSEES. 
 
 and Mahomedan mosques, with their deluded devotees. 
 Myriads of pigeons feed around the tanks; and sus- 
 pended from the branches of trees by their feet, with 
 head downwards, are numerous large bats, or " flying 
 foxes,'' as they are sometimes called, with their out- 
 spread wings dangling loosely in the air, as if they were 
 pieces of wet leather. In the suburbs, on the BycuUa 
 side, there are several charitable institutions, having 
 large piles of buildings, — such as hospitals and schools ; 
 and there are, in and around the city, ecclesiastical struc- 
 tures belonging to the Church of England, the Presby- 
 terians, and the Free Church of Scotland. We have no 
 missionary here ; and there is only one Wesleyan 
 missionary in the entire presidency of Bombay: 
 our missionaries having been sent more to other parts 
 of India. 
 
 The most remarkable people in Bombay are the 
 descendants of the ancient Persians, called Parsees. 
 They were driven here by Mahomedan persecution, and 
 have shown themselves to be an intelligent, energetic, 
 and gratefully loyal race. It is estimated that not more 
 than 150,000 of them are left in all parts, and that 
 110,000, or more, are in the island of Bombay. They 
 have wrought their way up to a first position in the 
 city, and successfully compete with Europeans in trade 
 and merchandise. Indeed, they are the traders, 
 bankers, brokers, and accountants of the place, and 
 fill the Fort with their stores, warehouses, and offices. 
 Their dress is exceedingly neat and clean. They have 
 a dark chocolate-coloured covering to their heads, which 
 is between a helmet and a turban, in shape ; and some 
 of them wear silk trousers and white tunics, and drive in 
 
THE PARSEES. 225 
 
 splendid equipages. Many of them reside in stately- 
 mansions in the suburbs, surrounded by extensive gar- 
 dens. They are characterized by truthfulness, sobriety, 
 and loyalty to England; and every year they are 
 becoming more and more Anglicized in their views of 
 education and domestic life. It is not without meaning 
 that they have been denominated the " Saxons of the 
 East.^^ One of them has obtained a world-wide celebrity 
 by his munificent donations in charity and benevolence 
 of £250,000, and more, given to various objects ; and 
 by the bestowment of a baronetcy upon him and his 
 descendants from the Queen of England. Sir Jamsetjee 
 Jeejeebhoy, Bart., the prince-merchant of Bombay, who 
 rose to wealth and honour by his own energy and 
 benevolence, has bequeathed a patrician name to his 
 family. 
 
 One custom of the Parsees is revolting to Europeans, 
 and that is the treatment of their dead. When life 
 becomes extinct^ the body is wrapped in clean clothes, 
 and placed on an oblong piece of polished stone, which 
 is laid on the floor, while the members of the family sit 
 around it and mourn. Then, before sunset, if possible, 
 the body is placed on an iron bier, and is borne by 
 corpse-bearers to the Dokhma, or Tower of Silence, 
 erected in some solitary place, and generally upon a 
 mountain. Across iron grating, at the top of this high 
 cylindrical roofless tower, the naked body is laid, where 
 it is immediately preyed upon by bare-headed vultures, 
 ravenous kites, and other carrion-birds, which hover, 
 scream, and contend there for their victims. The bones, 
 stripped of their flesh, fall through the iron grating into 
 a golgotha pit beneath. This is a barbarous practice by 
 a people so clean, intelligent, and refined, as the Parsees. 
 
226 VOYAGE FROM BOMBAY TO ADEN. 
 
 My host of the Clarendon was a Parsee ; and though he 
 had there a large and airy establishment, yet he had 
 his country house for his family, his private carriage, 
 personal attendants, and lived in first style. He was a 
 sensible, well-educated, well-informed man, and was 
 most courteously communicative on all questions pro- 
 posed to him. 
 
 Sat., April 27. — Drove to the Fort at eleven a.m. ; 
 bought some trifles of inlaid work from the natives. 
 Took boat, and went on board the " Orissa ^^ at three ; 
 dined at six ; and at half-past eight we steamed out of 
 the magnificent roadstead of Bombay for Aden and Suez. 
 
 Sun. J April 28. — Read the Liturgy, and preached on 
 board, morning and evening. We had music and 
 chanting, and there were good and attentive congre- 
 gations, out of our two hundred passengers. 
 
 Mon.y April 29, to Sat., May 4. — Voyaged on plea- 
 santly in fine weather. — We had religious service each 
 morning in the saloon at half-past nine, well attended ; 
 and on the last day the Arabian coast appeared at our 
 right, like Alpine hills overshadowed by long horizontal 
 clouds. 
 
 Sun., May 5. — Found ourselves at Aden when we 
 awoke in the morning. We had religious service on 
 board morning and evening j but the Sabbath was sadly 
 desecrated by many, who purchased feathers, baskets, 
 and coral, from Jews and Arabs. Left Aden at half- 
 past six : a hot night. 
 
 Mon., May 6, to Frid., the 10th. — Sailed up the Red 
 Sea under a moderate heat and agreeable weather. 
 Sketched the Sinaitic range, and copied in colours the 
 fiery sunset. 
 
ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA. 227 
 
 Sat., May 11. — Sketched Moses^ valley, and the part 
 of the shore said by some to be that where the Israelites 
 crossed ; but others contend that they went over higher 
 up, beyond Suez, where the channel has been dried, and 
 filled with the sand of the desert. If here, at the first- 
 named point, one can see how the multitude were shut 
 up to crossing the sea, or going back to the swords of 
 their pursuers ; and if the removal of the place of 
 crossiug to a shallower part be to lessen the difficulty, 
 such an attempt is vain ; for the Passage of the Israelites 
 was a miracle wrought by the direct interference of the 
 Almighty, to whom a deep or shallow water was the 
 same. We reached Suez before noon, remained there 
 till three, when under advice from steamboat and rail- 
 way authorities, we left our heavy luggage to be sent 
 after us, and set off by rail to Cairo. We arrived at 
 the old city of enchantment by half-past six in the 
 evening. 
 
 Sun., Mon. 12. — Our principal portmanteau was not 
 forthcoming at Cairo, as promised ; so we had to hasten 
 forward to Alexandria, to see if it were sent forward 
 with the general luggage for England. I went on board 
 the English steamer, about to leave, to search for it ; 
 but could neither see nor hear anything of it. We were 
 strongly advised not to sail without it, but, as we valued 
 it, to remain in Egypt until it was sought for and found. 
 So, while inquiries were made, we resolved to visit the 
 Holy Land, finding that in a Russian steamer, leaving 
 Alexandria early the next morning, we could be at Jaffa 
 twenty-four hours afterwards, and at Jerusalem on the 
 day of landing, if we pleased. We had not spared 
 private expenditure before this in seeing anything desi- 
 rable^ that was not strictly within the range of my 
 
228 DEPARTURE FOR THE HOLY LAND. 
 
 mission ; and ascertaining that for fifty pounds, or so, 
 we could have guide, guard, provision, and travelling, 
 and yet be back at Alexandria for the next Peninsular 
 and Oriental Company^s steam-ship to England, — while 
 to remain in Egypt during the interval, would be to 
 remain among objects and scenes already familiar to 
 us, — we engaged our dragoman, and with an American 
 friend, Mr. Hatfield, who had come with us from 
 Bombay, where he had resided as Consul for the 
 United States, went forth to Palestine. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Departtjke for the Holy Land — Jaffa — Pilgrims returning from the Holy- 
 City — Associations of " Joppa " — Journey to Ramleh — Night at the 
 Latin Convent — Scriptural sites in the journey from Ramleh — Watch- 
 houses — First sight of Jerusalem — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — 
 Holy places — View from St. Stephen's Gate — Valley of Jehoshaphat — 
 The Mount of Olives — Zion Gate — The Jews' Quarter — Mount Zion — 
 Ancient and Modern City — Walls and Streets — Bethany — Church of 
 the Ascension — Sepulchre of the Holy Virgin — Other Sepulchres — 
 Tophet — Aceldama — Jews' Wailing Place — Solomon's Bridge — Second 
 visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 
 
 Mon., May 12. — Left the harbour of Alexandria, in 
 the Russian steamer, at five in the morning. It was a 
 large, good vessel, and had been built at Greenock, in 
 Scotland. The officers were gentlemanly in their 
 demeanour, and exceedingly attentive to us, both at the 
 table and elsewhere. We were nearly all the first-class 
 passengers on board. Strewn over the deck, in the 
 forepart of the ship, were Mahomedans, with their 
 many wives, returning from Mecca ; and both Jew and 
 Christian pilgrims going to Jerusalem. Some of these 
 were haggard, wretched-looking beings, with anxious 
 spirits, that seemed to give them no rest. The Mahom- 
 edan women were curtained round in an upper bed- 
 chamber-like apartment, and had Nubian guardians ; 
 but whenever we looked towards them we could see 
 their bright, dark eyes peering at us from behind the 
 
230 JAFFA. 
 
 curtains. The weather was fine during the day, and in 
 the earlier part of it we sighted, in the distance, 
 Rosetta, and then Damietta, and saw plainly how the 
 deep blue water of the Mediterranean was discoloured 
 by the out-flowing of the Nile into it at its mouths 
 from the Delta. The evening was serene, and a rosy 
 emerald flush tinged both sea and sky. 
 
 Tues.y May 13. — Arrived at Jaffa, the ancient Joppa, 
 at six o'clock in the morning : were rowed ashore in a 
 small boat, by native boatmen, — Abram, our dragoman^ 
 filling the boat with baggage, and with tent, beds, and 
 firelocks. It seemed perilous to pass into the narrow 
 opening of low, craggy rocks amidst the roll and foam 
 of the angry surf that dashed upon them ; but we rode 
 safelv between the reefs which make the harbour, and 
 then, free from the breakers, floated smoothly to the 
 quay, where we landed on the backs or in the arms of 
 Arabs, amidst deafening voices, which we could not 
 understand, except at the loud and vociferous cry of 
 " backsheesh. '^ Abram soon, by a small coin or two, 
 had all his stores through the " Customs,^' and cleared 
 our way through a noisy and dense crowd of pilgrims 
 returning from the great feast at Jerusalem, who were 
 eager to get home by the Russian steamer we had left. 
 We were led to the hotel for breakfast; and while 
 horses and mules were obtained for our ride to Jeru- 
 salem, I took a guide, and went through the dirty, lane- 
 like, crowded streets of the city, to view the points and 
 places of traditional interest in it. I went to the 
 House of Simon the Tanner by the sea- side, as it is 
 called, and to the dwelling of Tabitha, whom Peter 
 raised to life, — or rather to what they show for these. 
 The town consists chiefly of shops for the s'ale of old 
 
JAFFA. 231 
 
 arms, old clothes, tobacco, and various fruits. After 
 viewing the site of Napoleon's bloody massacre in 1 799, 
 and the ornamented fountains and gate, I emerged from 
 the city on the land side, where the road and ground 
 around it were crowded with camels, asses, fruit, and 
 dirty Arabs ; and passed onwards some quarter of a 
 mile to see the orange and lemon-gardens, so famous in 
 their relation to Jaffa. The air was richly scented 
 with the golden fruit which hung around us ; and we 
 were offered a hamper full of large delicious oranges for 
 a shilling's worth of Syrian money. My walk through 
 the city had not at all increased my admiration of it. 
 Jaffa looks well from the water, where its streets of 
 houses rise one over another in terrace-form, from the 
 blue sea at its base to the sloping hill on which it 
 stands, and with its palm and orange-trees at the side; 
 but no sooner do you enter its narrow, filthy streets, 
 and see its motley throng of dirty Arabs, Jews, and 
 pilgrims, than, in remembrance of the first sight of it 
 from the sea, you think of Campbell's line, — 
 
 *"Tis distance lends enchantment to the view.** 
 
 Still, Jaffa is an interesting place. Perhaps, but few of 
 its buildings are more than one hundred years old ; so 
 that its houses of apostolic miracles can only represent 
 the sites of the veritable structures belonging to them, 
 if even they do that. But if not so old as some have 
 affirmed, — and if not the place of Noah and his 
 ark, — it is, undoubtedly, one of the oldest seaports 
 known. It was given to the tribe of Dan in the allot- 
 ments of the promised land. It was the chief port of 
 the Jews to which cedar from Lebanon was brought, for 
 both the first and second temple of the Jews. It was 
 
 X 2 
 
232 JOURNEY TO RAMLEH. 
 
 at Joppa Jonah embarked for TarsMsh, when he sought 
 to flee from the presence of the Lord, and escape his 
 unwelcome mission to Nineveh. It was there that 
 Peter had his singular vision in a trance, and where he 
 raised Tabitha to life again. And since then it has been 
 the key to the Holy Land for crusaders and conquerors. 
 We left Jafia on horseback, at three in the afternoon, 
 to reach Ramleh, said to be the ancient Arimathea, 
 before dark. Abram, our guide and guard, went before, 
 with sword at his side, and a huge firelock in his hand ; 
 and our American companion had pistols loaded and 
 primed in his waistband. I and my wife went 
 unarmed, having no fear of danger, and on our slender 
 Arab steeds pranced our way on the road through the 
 gardens — enclosed by prickly pears higher than our- 
 selves on horseback — in the suburbs of the city, and 
 then over the sweet plains of Sharon. My broad, 
 packed-out, Turkish saddle, and heavy angled stirrups, 
 did not contribute to my comfort in riding; but the 
 thought of being in the "Holy Land," and going to 
 " Jerusalem,^' reconciled me to an uneasy seat, especi- 
 ally as Mrs. Jobson on her English side-saddle, can- 
 tered and galloped so comfortably along. The " plain 
 of Sharon,^' though not yielding to our view any roses, 
 or lilies of the valley, such as furnished emblems for the 
 bards of Judah, was yet rich and beautiful. In this 
 fruitful plain were reapers and gleaners, with camels 
 laden with corn, and sweet lark-like birds singing 
 among the stubble, and in the flowery meadows of 
 intervening lands. The peasantry were somewhat 
 Egyptian in their features and colour, as if they had 
 partaken, in some degree, of the old Philistine blood, 
 from the district lying between their country and Egypt. 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMLEH. 233 
 
 But they were better clotlied than their neighbours of 
 the Nile; and their striped and many-coloured jackets 
 were a picturesque sight. We met in our way pilgrims 
 on mules, chiefly Greek Christians, returning from the 
 great festival of the holy city ; and some of the stout 
 Russian women, who rode astride on huge loads of kit 
 and bedding, and shook heavily at the trot of their 
 burdened steeds, were singular in their appearance. 
 We sought to see, on our left towards the sea, by the 
 use of our hand-glass, the remnants of the cities of the 
 Philistines, such as Ashdod, Gath, Ascalon, and Gaza; 
 but we could sight nothing in that mysterious region, 
 which from childhood had been associated in our minds 
 with Samson and giants, but sand-hills and barren 
 mounds. After some three hours^ ride over the gently 
 undulating, enamelled plains, we reached Ramleh, 
 where we were to rest for the night. The town, as 
 seen on approaching it, is pleasantly situated on a gen- 
 tle elevation, and its white buildings are picturesquely 
 embowered in olive-groves and orchards, with here and 
 there a lofty palm overhanging a mosque or a convent. 
 There is a noble tower on the right, now viewed as a 
 minaret, but which some contend was originally the 
 campanile of a magnificent church, the remains of 
 which are said to be near to it. Certain it is, that this 
 was an important place in the hands of the crusaders ; 
 and it was here that they held sumptuous feasts in 
 honour of their patron saints. We rode down a wind- 
 ing road, fenced by hedges of cactus; and at the 
 entrance of the town alighted at the Latin Convent, where 
 we were hospitably received, and waited on at dinner, 
 in their refectory, by friars, each in his brown-hooded 
 dress and waist-rope. They were very obliging; and 
 
 X 3 
 
234 SCRIPTURAL SITES. 
 
 aa Italian, who served Mrs. Jobson and me at table, 
 became almost loving in his demeanour, when I told 
 him that I was a Christian minister who had visited his 
 native country, and seen the Pope. The brethren 
 showed me the chapel of Nicodemus, and said he and 
 Joseph of Arimathea lived there; also another chapel 
 near to it. Both chapels were showily fitted up with 
 presentation-pictures and glittering furniture. But my 
 wife was not allowed to accompany me : these chapels 
 being beyond the precincts of approach allowed in the 
 convent to females. After careful preparation for us by 
 the friar valet-de-chambrej in our stone-walled sleeping- 
 room on the ground floor, we retired to rest ; and, wea- 
 ried with excitement and horseback exercise, slept soundly 
 within our mosquito-curtains, until awakened the next 
 morning by the matin-bell and chant of the convent. 
 
 Wed. J May 14. — Left Ramleh on horseback at six 
 in the morning for Jerusalem. We passed through 
 narrow, crooked streets, in which were lounging and 
 sauntering mingled Moslems and Christians, and in 
 which, stretched at full length in the dust and filth, 
 were many hairless, scabby dogs. After emerging from 
 the town, and descending past its burial ground, we 
 rode several miles through plains and fields, with 
 the " mountains of Israel '^ before us. Lydda, now 
 called Ludd, where Peter, in the name of Christ, 
 raised ^neas from his bed of palsy, and which is the 
 reputed birth-place of England's patron saint, St. 
 George, was seen on our left; with its group of pure 
 white buildings, bordered with sweet green foliage, and 
 nestling on the side of a gently-moulded hill; while 
 beyond it, stretching far away to the sea, swelled Mount 
 Carrael. We soon began to ascend rocky and rugged 
 
SCRIPTURAL SITES. 235 
 
 steeps; and passing at the foot of a desolate-looking 
 village^ where we were importuned by clamorous 
 beggars, we wound our way round the village of Latron, 
 at which, the monks say, the " penitent thief ^^ had his 
 abode, and used to descend upon unwary travellers. It 
 is now a heap of ruins upon the brow of a steep hill. 
 The day became increasingly hot ; and after two hours' 
 ride we rested awhile under a broad overshadowing 
 fig-tree, which might have well served as an oratory for 
 Nathanael. Afterwards we rode on for another hour; 
 and then, in a valley among olive-trees, rested again, 
 making the ground our pilgrim's table, on which to take 
 refreshment. 
 
 Resuming our travel, we entered more slippery and 
 shelving gorges, or roads, and met many pilgrims 
 of various nations, chiefly Russians and Greeks; but 
 there were some French officers among them in full 
 uniform. The women pilgrims were, as before, astride 
 on mules or donkeys. Towards noon the road began to 
 be all uphill, and was exceedingly broken and difficult : 
 it being chiefly formed along rocky ruts and crevices, 
 intersected by large boulders, and adown which the 
 waters rush in wet seasoas. Thus our way was often 
 for a long space over bare and slippery rock, and 
 apparently most perilous. But our horses, though shod 
 over the entire foot, and that without any points, 
 hooks, or heels, were sure in their tread ; and we pro- 
 gressed safely. We passed by Beit Nubah, where Richard 
 Coeur-de-Lion made some brilliant skirmishes without 
 going forth to take Jerusalem ; and also An was, which 
 Eusebius and Jerome affirm to be the Emmaus to which 
 the two saddened disciples were walking when the risen 
 Saviour joined Himself to them, and where afterwards 
 
236 SCRIPTURAL SITES. 
 
 He made Himself known in the breaking of bread. 
 But Anwas is more than threescore furlongs from 
 Jerusalem, and is too far for the disciples, after their 
 evening meal, to have returned to the city that night, 
 as the Scriptures affirm they did. We also passed by 
 Kuryet, said to be the ancient Kiijath-jearim, though, 
 if so, the ark " brought into the house of Abinadab ^^ 
 must have had a rough and steep ascent. His house, 
 however. Scripture states was '^in the hill.^^ And if 
 so, this celebrated robber-village, with its castle-like 
 dwellings and massive gothic church in ruins, was the 
 south-west angle of the territory of Benjamin. The 
 valley of Ajalon was seen on our right, from behind an 
 interposing mountain, — the valley which has been for 
 ever memorialized by the command of Joshua to the 
 moon when he pursued the routed hosts of the five 
 kings. The real Emmaus, it is supposed, must have 
 been in this neighbourhood, and in this direction, also, 
 David's conflict with Goliath of the Philistines ; and 
 here, before climbing the steep ascent towards Jeru- 
 salem, are to be seen remnants of a Boman bridge, 
 showing that the traveller is in the old highway of this 
 region. Here, to my relief, I obtained an English 
 saddle, brought from the hotel at Jerusalem where we 
 were to be entertained. Neby Samwil appeared on its 
 high, dark, stony peak on our left, as we climbed the 
 rugged steep; and whether the real Mizpeh of ^;he 
 Scriptures or not, no better place could be supposed for 
 a watch-tower, or for a prophetic overseer. 
 
 We then reached a rocky plateau, from whence we 
 could look far round, and see the whole mountainous 
 and undulated region. It is difficult, in its uncultivated 
 state, to conceive how such stony heights and depths as 
 
FIRST SIGHT OF JERUSALEM. 237 
 
 these could have been the " pleasant ^' and '^ fruitful " 
 land described in Scripture. Yet^ upon consideration, 
 it must be seen, that such ground, in its elevations, 
 shelves, and ridges, would be most favourable to vines, 
 figs, pomegranates, and olives ; and that when clothed 
 with these in their seasons, the rounded hills and inter- 
 vening vales would make Judea, both in beauty and 
 produce, a '^ delightsome land," and the " glory of 
 all lands." Along the road from Jaffa to Jerusalem, 
 at stations of a mile or more apart, stand what are 
 called the " Watch-houses," erected by the Sultan for 
 protection of pilgrims. They are as large as the 
 Martello-towers on our coast between Brighton and 
 Hastings ; only, instead of being round, they are square. 
 The soldiers, who sleep and live in them, ride to and 
 fro on horseback, from station to station, like the mounted 
 police in our rural districts. From the last but one of 
 these stations, we had our first sight of the Holy City. 
 
 From what we felt we could not wonder that the 
 ancient Crusaders, when they had this sight, threw 
 themselves upon their knees, and wept with emotion. 
 Immediately before us, although more than a mile 
 distant, was the impressive form of the broad, massive 
 tower of Hippicus, whence the lofty embattled wall 
 extended on the right to Mount Zion. Within the 
 wall, and above it, stood up the Armenian Convent and 
 its sable companions, the tall cypress trees. To the 
 right of these, and on the crown of Mount Zion, rose 
 the tower and turret called David's tomb ; and beyond 
 a valley, still further right, arose the "Hill of Evil 
 Counsel." The wall, also, extended northward on our 
 left, but it was much hidden from our sight by build- 
 ings, and more especially by a very large one in course 
 
238 ENTRANCE TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 of erection by the Russians, as their chief ecclesiastical 
 establishment at Jerusalem. A crowded burial-ground 
 was in the descending land immediately to our right ; 
 and beyond it stretched the plains and road towards 
 Bethlehem. 
 
 We entered the Holy City by the Jaffa gate at half- 
 past five in the evening, and were lodged at Hauser's 
 Hotel in Christian Street, adjoining the Pool of Heze- 
 kiah, and directly opposite the once splendid hospital of 
 the Knights of St. John, but which is now a desolate 
 heap of ruins. "When we had dined in our stone-vaulted 
 refectory, wearied with our day^s excitement and ride, 
 we were glad to retire to bed. 
 
 Thurs., May 15. — Being unable to sleep for excite- 
 ment during the night, and impatient to see the Holy 
 City, I went out before breakfast with a Jew guide, to 
 obtain a general view of Jerusalem. Passing north- 
 ward through the narrow uneven street of our hotel, in 
 which were small shops on either hand, with men 
 of various nations guarding or serving in them; and 
 treading over some two or three hundred yards of the 
 uneven pavement, I reached a covered part, where the 
 Church of the Holy Sepulchre extends itself over the 
 road. I then turned down a narrow way to the right, 
 and, after descending some steps, found myself in the 
 entrance-court of this great church of renown. Its 
 external appearance, with its shattered square tower and 
 swelling stone domes, is solemn and impressive. It is 
 of severe Byzantine style, and its lancet-pointed arches, 
 with their dog-tooth ornament, tell of both labour and 
 cost bestowed upon them. They are broken and 
 mutilated in parts, as if they had been violently assailed 
 with axes and hammers. There are remains of the 
 
CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 239 
 
 moulded basements of marble pillars on the low plat- 
 form from whence you take a view of the front of the 
 building. There are chapels and monastic establish- 
 mentSj left^ I'iglit, and behind, as you stand facing the 
 church, with mendicants in their tattered dresses 
 crouching against them; and at the entrance door 
 before you, Turkish soldiers are seated on cushions, 
 showing that all is under Moslem guard, and that you 
 cannot enter this Christian temple without Moslem 
 permission. 
 
 I was allowed to enter ; but not so my Jew guide, 
 who cringed and drew back, telling me with a peculiar 
 shrug and look, that he was not permitted to go in ; for 
 they said he belonged to a race who crucified Christ. 
 Turkish soldiers were also within the door lounging on 
 cushions and carpets. I passed them without drawing 
 even a lazy look from them, and beheld everywhere the 
 tawdry display of coloured marbles, gilt ornaments, 
 swinging lamps, and pictures illustrative of Christ's 
 death, burial, and resurrection. The place was scented 
 with incense ; for though it was not yet six o'clock in 
 the morning, ardent residents and pilgrims had already 
 been for worship; and in every compartment priests 
 and attendants had been swinging their censers. I felt 
 little of their superstitious ardour, and looked scepti- 
 cally on the "holy places'' before which the several 
 groups were bowing ; but yet I could not stand within 
 such walls without peculiar emotion. Intending to 
 return another day, when my wife should view with 
 me this interesting spot, — after hastily pacing my way 
 around the aisles, and through the adjoining chapels, — 
 I passed out, and returned to the road leading north- 
 wards from the hotel, joined by my Jew guide. This is 
 
240 VIA DOLOROSA. 
 
 the Via Dolorosa^ or street along which Christ is said 
 to have borne His cross. 
 
 I soon turned eastward down a narrow, irregular 
 street, often broken, and overshadowed at different 
 places by houses built across it. This is the Turks' 
 quarter ; and they were seen sitting cross-legged in 
 their small shops, and emerging from low doorways of 
 dwellings which one felt a strong curiosity to enter, — 
 although such a hasty glance as could be gained in 
 passing showed that they were generally abodes of 
 wretchedness. As we descended the rugged and slip- 
 pery street, my Jew guide pointed out to me, with an 
 incredulous look, the stone projection within its sunken 
 doorway where St. Veronica is said to have wiped the 
 bloody and perspiring face of the thorn-crowned Saviour, 
 and to have received the miraculous impression upon 
 her handkerchief; then a recess in the wall, where the 
 transverse beam of the cross is said to have struck ; and 
 the indenture of His hand in the wall where He is said 
 to have fainted and fallen. Of course, these are fictions, 
 because the buildings are modern, comparatively, bear- 
 ing characteristic features of the Saracenic period ; but 
 one could not in a street at Jerusalem hear allusions to 
 the sufferings of the Redeemer without emotion. After 
 a turn or two of the street, we reached the arch of the 
 Ecce Homo — a building thrown across the street, and 
 having a window from which Pilate is said to have 
 shown Christ to the multitude. Still descending, we 
 reach St. Stephen's Gate ; and I passed out, eager to 
 have a more extended view of the scene of so many 
 thrilling associations. 
 
 We stood on high, broken ground, outside the city, 
 with the eastern wall on our right, and over it the 
 
VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. 341 
 
 purple dome and gilded crescent of the Mosque of 
 Omar on Mount Moriah, — -the site of Solomon^s Tem- 
 ple. Before us, in the deep gorge below, lay the valley 
 of Jehoshaphat ; and we could discern the line of the 
 dried brook Kidron at the bottom. In the valley, 
 across the brook, stands Absalom^s Tomb, and other 
 sepulchres of the Hebrew dead; while all around, in 
 the valley and on the hill, are the graves of Jews, who 
 come from all parts of the world to die in Jerusalem, 
 that their bodies may lie here. To the left, across the 
 brook, and gently rising out of the valley, lay the Gar- 
 den of Gethsemane, with its ancient olive-trees ; and 
 still lower, and more to the left, the Tomb of the Vir- 
 gin ; while over these swelled the Mount of Olives, 
 with the various lines of road across it to Bethany, and 
 crowned with the Church of the Ascension. A little to 
 the right of the Mount of Olives, and more distant, 
 rises the " Mount of Offence '/' and in the extreme right, 
 the " Hill of Evil Counsel ; '' while over all, in front, 
 may be seen the distant mountains of Moab. Not only 
 Mount Olivet itself, but the gorge beneath, and the 
 steep leading up to the eastern wall of Jerusalem, are 
 embossed with hundreds of olive-trees. At the top of 
 the steep, under the city wall, is the Turkish burial- 
 ground, thickly covered with graves and tombs. But 
 one thinks not of the Turks and of their tombs, when 
 gazing upon a scene like this; for here, a Christian 
 feels, are crowded together all the sweetest and holiest 
 associations of his life ! There rose the mount up which 
 my Saviour trod to pray in the loneliness of the night. 
 There lay the garden in which, " being in an agony. 
 He prayed more earnestly."" Across that hill lay the 
 road leading to the house of His tenderest earthly 
 
242 VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. 
 
 friendship. There was the dried brook He crossed on 
 the night of his betrayal. It was all real. There could 
 be no deception here. There might be forgeries about 
 spots within the wall of the city, but it could not be so 
 here, and the sight was overpowering ! I have stood 
 at the foot of Mont Blanc and gazed with awe at its 
 " sovran ^^ peaks. I have indulged fancy in pictured 
 Venice, and within the spacious ruins of the Colosseum, 
 — and paced the gorgeous aisles of St. Peter's. I 
 have voyaged along the mighty Mississippi, stood in the 
 spray of foaming Niagara, crossed the broad lakes and 
 inland seas of America, and trod the pavement of her 
 rising cities ; and I had but lately breathed the air of 
 the newer world of the far south, felt the soothing 
 influence of the sweet natural scenery of Ceylon, wit- 
 nessed the eastern life of Bombay and Cairo, glanced 
 at the sculptured caves of Elephanta, and felt as if 
 transported to a world more ancient than our own 
 while lying at the foot of those wondrous Pyramids ; 
 but I had experienced no feeling like the all-subduing 
 feeling of the morning in which I first saw Olivet and 
 Gethsemane, Every train of hallowed thought seemed 
 to point to that moment ; and with mingled sorrow for 
 sin and love to the Saviour, I gazed in over-awed silence 
 upon these holy scenes, — feeling they were really holy 
 in their associations. 
 
 I afterwards paced my solemn way by the eastern 
 wall of the city amidst the graves and tombs of the 
 Turks ; and passed by the Golden Gate, which is of 
 Roman architecture, and handsome, but which has been 
 walled up for ages. My Jew guide said, it had been 
 walled up at the taking of Jerusalem, and would never 
 be re-opened until his own people were restored. We 
 
CITY OF DAVID. 243 
 
 wound past the south-east angle of the city wall, where 
 are huge stones of ancient masonry, and where projects 
 the broken pillar on which it is said Mahomed shall 
 stand at the last judgment to intercede for the faith- 
 ful, having the Kidron still below at our left, and the 
 ruined village of Siloam in front ; and, climbing over 
 loose rubble on its steep side, reached the site of the 
 city of David, and beheld his tomb. 
 
 We re-entered Jerusalem by the Zion Gate, within 
 which, with their fronts turned towards the high wall, 
 were the hovel-looking stone huts of the lazars or 
 lepers. We were now in the Jews' quarter. Here, 
 where Melchisedec, King of Salem, had his abode, was 
 once the favourite residence of David, the magnificent 
 palace of Solomon, and afterwards of Herod ; but we 
 had to thread our way through an entangled network of 
 narrow passages and lane-like streets, — the houses look- 
 ing generally half-ruined, and everything speaking of 
 poverty, suffering, and desolation. It was touching to 
 meet the forms of venerable men in long, flowing gar- 
 ments, and their beards reaching to their girdles ; and 
 to see beautiful young girls, fair as lilies, with fine dark 
 eyes and eye-brows, clothed with no richness of garb, 
 yet some of them with exceeding cleanliness, glide out 
 of the dingy houses and under the passages, like things 
 of stealth and scorn, and to remember that here their 
 fathers had once trod in pride and power. The unmis- 
 takeable Jewish stamp was upon all the faces we met in 
 this quarter. In the streets of trade, the men were 
 busily employed in all kinds of working occupation, and 
 eagerly solicited me to traffic with them in articles 
 brought from all parts of the world. You felt that the 
 Israelite of the Jews' quarter at Jerusalem and he of 
 
 Y 2 
 
244} MOUNT ZION. 
 
 Rosemary Lane at the east of London was the same. 
 Passing next into the better accommodated Turkish 
 quarter, I regained my hotel for a late breakfast. 
 
 In the afternoon my wife and I, with our Jew guide_, 
 went over the city, to take, in the first instance, a general 
 survey of its plan and topographical relationships. We 
 had previously, of course, examined the various theories 
 of writers upon the relative positions of interesting 
 points in ancient and modern Jerusalem ; and, knowing 
 that every foot of ground in and about the city, and 
 almost every stone upon it, had been scrutinized by a 
 thousand keen and controversial eyes, we resolved not 
 to perplex ourselves by the numerous contradictory 
 opinions of predecessors in travel, but to view for our- 
 selves the real Jerusalem in which we were, and to 
 observe how far it answered to our remembrances of 
 reference to it in Scripture. 
 
 Beginning with Mount Zion, we saw how high and 
 impregnable it was amidst the hills around it, and that 
 it was naturally chosen by the Jebusites, from whom it 
 was taken by Israel, as their chief fort, or stronghold. 
 Here, upon the brow of this loftiest hill, 2,400 feet 
 above the Mediterranean, and 3,700 feet above the Dead 
 Sea, stood the palace of David, the poet-king, with the 
 Tabernacle of the Lord, while on its slopes around were 
 the abodes of his people, extending to a wall of defence 
 which surrounded it in the depths below. This was the 
 site of the city of David, when that monarch took it and 
 made it his capital in place of Hebron. As he gradually 
 subdued from thence the surrounding tribes, the build- 
 ings of the city would extend themselves into the 
 suburbs; and we know that the threshing-floor of 
 Araunah, the Jebusite, was upon Mount Moriah ; for it 
 
ANCIENT AND MODERN CITY. 245 
 
 was there the plague was stayed. Thus viewing Mount 
 Zion, as you stand upon its summit, it is not difficult to 
 realize the Scripture declarations of its impregnable 
 security, when surrounded by "walls" and "bul- 
 warks ; " and of the beauty of its situation, as " the joy 
 of the whole earth," whither "the tribes went up to 
 worship ; " while, in its present condition, the bold and 
 daring prophecies concerning it by Jeremiah and Micah 
 are seen to be literally fulfilled in its being " ploughed 
 as a field." 
 
 When Solomon succeeded to the throne, and took 
 possession of Jerusalem, with its fortifications and 
 palaces, his first act was to fulfil the pious purpose of 
 his father David, and to build a House for the Lord. 
 This he did upon Moriah,the hill adjoining, in the most 
 costly and perfect style possible, calling to his aid, as 
 his chief architect, a skilful and highly-accomplished 
 man, who was " son of a woman of the daughters of 
 Dan, and his father a man of Tyre ; " so that the 
 gorgeous temple which he built was, no doubt, of 
 Tyrian- Jewish architecture. For this he levelled the 
 rocky summit of Moriah, and made the grand and spa- 
 cious platform on which the mosque of Omar now 
 stands. During. the reign of Solomon, the royal capital, 
 with his kingdom, enlarged and flourished ; so that, 
 probably, Acra, immediately north of Mount Zion, as 
 well as Moriah, north-east of it, was enclosed within a 
 second wall ; and then between Zion, on the north, and 
 Acra would be the Tyropoeon, or valley, — spanned by a 
 bridge of many arches, extending from the royal palace 
 to the temple, — and from it to the union of the valleys 
 of Jehoshaphat and of the son of Hinnom, at the south- 
 east depth of Zion, ran the "valley of the cheese- 
 
 Y 3 
 
246 ANCIENT AND MODERN CITY. 
 
 mongers.^' The ground, in its elevations and interven- 
 ing declivities, favours this supposition, which is based 
 upon the records of the Scripture ; while on the south- 
 east slopes of Zion, and onwards in the valleys around, 
 are sites and ruins agreeing with historic notices of the 
 orchards, vineyards, and pools of water, with which 
 Solomon adorned and irrigated his capital, in the time 
 when, through lucrative commerce with the East, he 
 enriched Jerusalem until he " made silver to be in it as 
 stones/' 
 
 Thus far all is clear and satisfactory as to the pro- 
 gressive formation of the city; but in its successive 
 enlargement northwards, there is much uncertainty. 
 Manasseh, we read, " built a wall without the city of 
 David, on the west side of Gihon, even to the entering 
 in at the Fish-gate, and compassed about Ophel, and 
 raised it up a very great height." This was south of 
 Moriah, and was occupied by the Nethinims, or servants 
 of the temple ; but how the parts north of this mount, 
 and north of Acra, were added, is not known. After 
 the temple had been destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, and 
 the city laid waste by him, we know that the second 
 temple was built, (no doubt upon the original platform,) 
 amidst mingled rejoicing and weeping, — and after that, 
 in the days of Nehemiah, the city walls were restored; 
 (no doubt upon the old foundations ;) but how the city 
 progressed and enlarged unto the time of Herod, who 
 restored it and the temple to more than former magni- 
 ficence, soon to be followed by burning and devastation, 
 until not one stone was left upon another, is not noted, 
 and cannot now be ascertained. If Josephus is to be 
 credited in his record, that two millions of people were 
 within the city when it was besieged by the army of 
 
WALLS AND STREETS. 247 
 
 TituSj then the circuit of the walls must have been 
 much larger than two miles and a half, which is 
 now their girth ; and yet if Calvary was any way near 
 the site of the Holy Sepulchre, and " beyond the gate/^ 
 then the northern wall at that period could not have 
 extended much beyond Acra, or beyond Hezekiah's 
 Pool, which we should suppose would be within the 
 city. So that when or how Bezetha, or the large 
 northern portion of Jerusalem,, was added^ with its 
 encircling wall, cannot be known. 
 
 Probably, the city now, in its general outline, except 
 at the north-west angle, is as it was in the time of 
 Christ ; and the sites of Calvary, Pilate's Judgment- 
 Hall, Herod's Palace, and Via Dolorosa^ may have been 
 near to what are named for them. Tradition, though 
 uncertain, yet reaching so far back, is not to be lightly 
 set aside ; for within two or three centuries of the events 
 referred to, learned and inquiring Christian teachers 
 would be more likely to learn localities than we who 
 live 1,600 years later. Jerusalem was the birthplace of 
 Christianity, which spread itself from thence in succes- 
 sive circles around, through Judea, Syria, and to the 
 ends of the earth ; and, as far as I was able to judge, 
 with the Bible in my hands at the Holy City, the tradi- 
 tions from the early Fathers on the sites and scenes of 
 Scripture events, are, at least, as probable as any modern 
 conjectures. 
 
 Some difficulties present themselves ; but they may 
 be expected after successive wars and destructions in the 
 long lapse of time which has occurred, and when the 
 vast accumulation of debris and ruins has filled up 
 intervening valleys as much as forty feet. The tower 
 of Hippicus, at the Jaffa Gate, with its solid Roman 
 
248 WALLS AND STREETS. 
 
 basement, the springing arch-stones of the bridge which 
 led from the temple to Solomon^s palace, the bevelled 
 Jewish masonry of huge stones in the lower part of the 
 walls west and east of the enclosure round the temple 
 site, with the aqueducts and pools south of Mount 
 Zion, are points and features of importance in a topo- 
 graphical survey of Jerusalem, and are, undoubtedly, 
 remnants of ancient times, which have been preserved 
 through the wars and destructions of the city during 
 1,800 years past. We made the circuit of the walls, 
 which are from ten to fifteen feet thick, and from thirty 
 to forty feet high, according to the nature of the ground 
 over which they pass, having battlemented breastworks 
 on the outside, with salient angles and towers at inter- 
 vals, and running over hills and across valleys in zig-zag 
 lines. The walls are evidently built up of old materials, 
 and vary in their masonry in different parts. They are 
 said to have been constructed by Sultan Suleiman in 
 1542, but, in all probability, they rest on old founda- 
 tions. Some portions give evidence of this. From the 
 rampart at the top of this wall, very fine views, both of 
 the city and the surrounding country, are obtained ; and 
 it is almost impossible to look round from such a posi- 
 tion, and not call to remembrance the gracious promise, 
 that " as the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so 
 the Lord is round about His people.^^ 
 
 In the walls of the city (which lieth four-square) 
 there are five gates now open : one on each of the west, 
 north, and south sides, and two in the south wall, cross- 
 ing Mount Zion. And within the city there are five 
 principal streets, as they may be called : three running 
 south and north, and two west and east. These are 
 narrow, dirty, confined, and arched over in parts, with 
 
BETHANY. 249 
 
 buildings across them, so that they are dark as well as 
 cumbered with dirt and offal. Small eastern shops and 
 stores line the sides of these, with houses here and there 
 intervening; and persons of all nations throng them, 
 out of a population, perhaps, of 20,000, who, generally 
 speaking, may be said to number, almost equally, one- 
 third each of Mahomedans, Jews, and Christians. Ruin 
 and desolation are everywhere visible ; and poverty and 
 wretchedness appear in most of the people. Outside the 
 gates, on every side of the city, sit the lepers, not white 
 and scaly, but dark and diseased, with rotting features 
 and limbs, holding bowls in their fingerless hands to the 
 passers by for alms ; while in the cemeteries around the 
 walls are companies of mourners, or "wailers,^^ who 
 make loud lamentations. There is a haughty, masterful 
 bearing among the Turks towards the Jews ; and the 
 latter complain pitiably of their oppressed condition in 
 their own city. Jerusalem is, indeed, " trodden down 
 of the Gentiles.'^ 
 
 Frid., May 17. — Before breakfast I went outside the 
 wall of the city at St. Stephen's Gate, and sketched the 
 scene which had impressed me so deeply the day before. 
 After breakfast we mounted on horses, and, with our 
 Jew guide, descended from the eastern gate a very pre- 
 cipitous road into the vale of Kidron ; and then, by a 
 gentle ascent, passed the wall of the Garden of Geth- 
 semane, and wound round the Mount of Olives by the 
 southern road, which leads to Bethany. This is, most 
 probably, one of the roads trodden by Christ in His fre- 
 quent resort to that place of favoured friendship. The 
 ruined village is pleasantly situated on the eastern slope 
 of the mountain, and to European eyes scarcely con- 
 tains a house that would be regarded as habitable. Of 
 
250 TOMB OF LAZARUS. 
 
 course^ we were shown the house of Martha and Mary, 
 and also the tomb of Lazarus. I sketched these, though 
 really incredulous regarding everything, except the site 
 of the village. The house is far too modern to have 
 been there 1,800 years ago ; and the rocky, subterra- 
 nean vault, with its low doorway, scarcely answers the 
 description, given of it by St. John, who says, " it was a 
 cave, and a stone lay upon it.'^ The few wretched 
 inhabitants of the place seemed to be Arabs ; and they 
 gathered around us with looks of wonder, the men, 
 women, and even little children, stretching out their 
 hands, and imploring " backsheesh." As usual, we 
 gave something to the tattered and clamorous beggars 
 around us, not willing to have our remembrance of 
 Bethany at all beclouded by the thought of having 
 refused relief to persons in abject poverty. 
 
 Leaving the locality where it is said Christ oft-times 
 resorted with His disciples, with all its hallowed associa- 
 tions, we climbed the Mount of Olives to its summit, 
 where stands an ecclesiastical building, called the 
 " Church of the Ascension." This is shown as the spot 
 where the Saviour ascended, and from whence the cloud 
 received Him out of the sight of His apostles; and 
 there is even shown you His last footprint on earth ! — 
 but we did not enter to look. It is hardly probable that 
 Christ ascended from this prominent and exposed spot, 
 which might be seen from all parts of the city. It is 
 more likely that it was from a retired part lo#er down 
 on the south-east shoulder of the mountain ; since the 
 Scripture relates that it was " over against Bethany." 
 We now descended by the middle path, until we reached 
 the place where Jesus is said to have beheld the city, 
 wept over it, and foretold its doom, having on our left 
 
SEPULCHRE OF THE HOLY VIRGIN. 251 
 
 the road upon which the exultant multitude spread their 
 garments, and scattered palm-branches before Him, 
 shouting hosannas to His name. The view of Jerusalem 
 from this part is comprehensive and striking ; and the 
 temple-site from this descent spreads itself impressively 
 before you. On reaching the depth of the angle, where 
 the steep road from St. Stephen^s Gate and the Valley 
 of Kidron meet against the north-west corner of the 
 Garden of Gethsemane, we found the subterranean 
 church and sepulchre of the Virgin open ; so, descending 
 its sixty steps, we went into its gloomy, damp vault, 
 and, by the dim, mysterious light of its swinging lamps, 
 viewed at the bottom the reputed tomb of Mary, with 
 its tabernacle, and tawdry altar furniture ; and then, on 
 our return, saw, on our left, the chapel and tombs 
 of Joachim and Anna, and on our right that of St. 
 Joseph. 
 
 We were glad to emerge into the open daylight ; and, 
 looking round upon the steeps and olives of this neigh- 
 bourhood, reflected that here, without doubt, Christ 
 often retired from the throng and noise of the adjoining 
 city for prayer and communion with the Father, and 
 for private converse with His disciples. We then 
 descended by the Valley of Kidron to Absalom's tomb, 
 with its semi-Egyptian and Roman massive square and 
 inverted " pillar,^' half buried, as it is, with the stones 
 which the Jews throw at it as they pass. It was over 
 here, no doubt, that David fled from his city on the 
 rebellion of his son and people, and when he went up 
 the Mount of Olives weeping. Behind the large monu- 
 mental tower for Absalom is the subterranean sepulchre 
 of Jehoshaphat, from which it may be that the valley 
 takes its name. We passed the other impressive sepul- 
 
252 POOL OF SILOAM. 
 
 chres and tombs adjoining, in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, 
 which are ascribed to St. James and Zechariah. The 
 former is a cave^ extending as much as fifty feet back 
 under the mountain, and has a Doric front of pillars 
 and frieze cut out of the solid rock ; and the latter is a 
 pyramidical tomb hewn out of the mountain, and left 
 separate from it, with a height of thirty feet or so. 
 These tombs, in their forms and excavations, are said to 
 have some resemblance to the sepulchres and tombs of 
 Petra. The ground in all this part, and on all its slopes 
 and ledges, is covered with the grave-stones of buried 
 Jews. 
 
 Pursuing our descent, we had the village of Siloam 
 on the overhanging rocks at our left, and the foot of 
 Mount Zion at our right ; and we reached what is called 
 the Fountain of the Virgin, and then, still further on, 
 the picturesque Pool of Siloam, where the waters, flow- 
 ing through long underground passages from higher 
 sources, still '^ go softly.^' There the soil is culti- 
 vated and deliciously verdant, so as to support by 
 appearance the tradition that this was the place of the 
 king's gardens. It was in that part of the Valley of 
 Gihon that Solomon was first proclaimed king, and 
 from which Adonijah and his revelling companions, in 
 the city of David above, heard with consternation the 
 shouts of the people. On the left, in the ravine 
 descending to the Dead Sea, is " En Rogel,'' mentioned 
 in Scripture as the boundary of the tribes of Judah and 
 Benjamin, but now named the ^' Fountain of Job ; '' 
 and nearer, in the same direction, is an overshadowing 
 mulberry tree of unusual size, where tradition affirms 
 Isaiah the prophet was sawn asunder. Winding our 
 way westwards round the southern slope of Mount 
 
TOPHET. 253 
 
 Zion, in the Valley of the son of Hinnom, we found 
 ourselves in a desolate glen, which, on our left, had 
 stern, rugged rocks and precipices, full of the yawning 
 mouths of caverns, empty and tenantless, and which 
 overhung an impenetrable ravine, or rather a charnel- 
 house. This was " Tophet," where its unquenchable 
 fire, and undying worm, preying upon its multiplied 
 victims to Moloch, made it the type of hell. It was 
 here that Solomon, Ahaz, Manasseh, and others, com- 
 mitted abominations, denounced so fearfully by the 
 prophets, and for which Israel suffered so terribly. 
 Crowning this gloomy glen on our left, is the tradition- 
 ary " Aceldama," or " Field of Blood," bought by 
 Judas, the traitor, and from which he fell, it is said, 
 into the depths below, when he went out and hung 
 himself. Ascending the valley north-westward, we 
 passed the lower pool of Gihon, with its aqueduct at 
 one end, through which, most probably, water was 
 brought to the temple from Solomon's large pools 
 beyond Bethlehem ; and, re-entering Jerusalem at the 
 Jaffa Gate, we dismounted our horses, and walked 
 forth, it being Friday, to see the Jews' " Wailing Place." 
 It is a short space, like a narrow court-yard, paved 
 with flat stones, but not a thoroughfare, lying under 
 the high wall which forms a part of the western boun- 
 dary to Omar's mosque, or the temple-site. The huge 
 stones, for about half way up, with their bevelled edges, 
 would seem to be of Jewish masonry, and this is very 
 credibly believed to have been part of the ancient temple- 
 wall. The Jews are not allowed to enter the temple- 
 area, but they are permitted to come here once a week, 
 and wail for the ruined city of their prostrate nation. 
 They do so by reading and repeating, with sobs and 
 
254 Solomon's bridge. 
 
 tears, passages from the Psalms and Prophets expressive 
 of deep lamentation over the ruin of their holy city, and 
 its holy and beautiful house, in which their fathers 
 praised God. And it was, indeed, a tender and moving 
 sight to see ancient, long-bearded men, and women 
 shrouded in long white robes, enter the area, walk 
 along the sacred wall, kissing its stones, and pouring 
 into its crevices their lamentations and prayers ! It 
 was a scene confirmative of the truth of Christianity ; 
 for it brought forcibly to mind Christ's own lament 
 over Jerusalem before its fall, and His prophecy on its 
 coming desolation. 
 
 Springing from this wall, but nearer to its south- 
 west angle, remains part of an arch of the ancient 
 bridge which spanned the Tyropoeon valley between 
 Mori ah and Zion. It is of huge, massive masonry ; 
 and some of the stones of the wall against it are as 
 much as twenty and twenty- four feet long, and from 
 five to six feet thick. My guide said it was part of one 
 of several arches which supported the grand causeway 
 that Solomon erected to extend from his palace to the 
 temple, and which when the Queen of Sheba had seen, 
 there was no more spirit in her ; but others ascribe the 
 construction of this vast bridge to Herod, when he 
 built his temple; and say, that it was upon it Titus 
 stood when he called upon the Jews, who had fled to 
 the city of Zion, at the burning of their temple, to 
 surrender, without forcing him to further destruction. 
 But, in any case, this fragment is part of one of the 
 arches which supported the extended way from the city 
 of David to the temple, at the time of Christ ; and, no 
 doubt, upon it the Saviour often trod, in making that 
 passage over what was then a deep and rugged hollow 
 
SUBTERRANEAN TAULTS. 255 
 
 from Zion to the south porch of the temple. The 
 valley is now much filled up with accumulated rubbish ; 
 and round this corner, and along the foundations of the 
 south wall of the temple enclosure, grows an impene- 
 trable thicket of prickly pear ; but all the masonry of 
 the lower part of the wall in this part is large and old. 
 Of late it has been discovered that, under the south-east 
 portion of the temple platform, there are vast subter- 
 ranean vaults, out of which, some suppose, material for 
 the temple was taken ; but others view them as having 
 been designed for cisterns and reservoirs, made by 
 Hezekiah and his successors, to supply Jerusalem with 
 water. Another conjecture is that these vaults below 
 the temple area were Solomon^s stables for his four 
 thousand horses ; and that his palace, as well as that of 
 his father David, was immediately south of the temple. 
 This latter conjecture, however, could hardly be enter- 
 tained by one who had really visited Jerusalem, and seen 
 the relative position of this eastern hill. Be that as it 
 may, the underground work below the temple area is 
 astonishing in its depth and extent ; and passages for 
 blood and water, from sacrifices, have been traced, it is 
 affirmed, extending from the parts where the altars 
 stood, down to the valley of Gihon, which is as much 
 as five hundred feet lower. These theories, however, 
 are conjectural : only it solemnizes and impresses the 
 mind to see and study these extensive works of anti- 
 quity in such associations ; and, after looking upon 
 these huge ancient stones and fragments, and reflecting 
 upon the vast underground excavations, both here and 
 under the north-eastern part of the city, we returned, 
 full of thought, to our hotel. 
 
 The remainder of the day was spent in a visit with 
 
 z 2 
 
256 CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 
 
 my wife to the churcli of the Holy Sepulchre, — the 
 building which has cost so much European blood. We 
 had to wait a considerable time at its doors, amidst a 
 motley crowd of sects, — Greek, Latin, and Coptic, — 
 who had come thither to worship, but were not allowed 
 to enter because the Mahomedan worship had not yet 
 closed in the mosque of Omar. The crowd, as it 
 gathered and thronged the doorway, frequently mur- 
 mured with impatience, and the priests within the 
 church looked through the small square opening in the 
 door, and shook their heads with a sense of mortifica- 
 tion ; but they had not the means to admit any one of 
 us. I spent the time in sketching the garbs and cos- 
 tumes of the several characters around me. At length 
 the Moslem oflBcial stalked across the court towards the 
 church, and ascended a ladder to unlock and unbolt the 
 door, — the fastenings being placed so high, that he 
 could not otherwise reach them. The Turkish soldiers 
 entered first, climbed their cushion-seats as a tailor 
 would climb his shopboard, and there squatted them- 
 selves in state, with their turbaned heads, baggy trousers, 
 and glittering swords, as custodians ; while we, the 
 multitude, passed in. Our dragoman, who was a Roman 
 Catholic, conducted us round the church, and, together 
 with an assistant whom he called, gave us a volume of 
 information, such as it was worth, concerning the holy 
 spots within the church. 
 
 The first object was the " Stone of Unction,^' upon 
 which Christ's dead body is said to have been anointed 
 for burial. It is a large flat tombstone-like slab of 
 Sienna marble, lying on the floor before you, in the 
 south transept, as you enter the church, having, as its 
 appendages, very large candles and suspended lamps. It 
 
CHtTRCH OP THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 257 
 
 is not professed tliat this is more than a cover of the 
 real stone of anointing, which is said to be immediately 
 below it. Several of the crowd rushed towards this 
 stone as soon as admitted ; bowed themselves around 
 it, and commenced repeating their prayers. Turning 
 westwards to its left, we were shown the spot where 
 tradition relates the Virgin Mary stood when the body 
 of Jesus was being anointed. This, too, had lamps 
 burning over it. Then turning to the right, we passed 
 under the western dome, where stands the shrine, said 
 to be raised over the spot within which Christ was 
 entombed. It is a large tabernacle-kind of structure, 
 covered in front with pictures and gold, canopied with 
 a large blue banner, which is ornamented with a white 
 cross and stars. We entered the shrine between lines 
 of giant candlesticks, with candles in them twenty feet 
 high, by a low doorway ; and immediately within were 
 shown the stone upon which, we were told, the angel 
 sat when he declared to the women, " He is not here : 
 for He is risen, as He said. Come, see the place where 
 the Lord lay ! ^^ This stone is smaller than one would 
 expect to find it, and is enclosed in a font-like pedestal. 
 Pilgrims bend over it, and kiss it most fervently. 
 Through a still straiter door we passed into a narrow 
 cell, in which, on the right side, stands a plain white- 
 veined marble tomb. Over it hang numerous lamps of 
 gold and silver, studded with gems, — the oflPerings of 
 kings and princes, — reflecting, through their coloured 
 mediums, various lights. This is the Holy Sepulchre 
 itself. A strange dreaminess is produced by the varied 
 dim and coloured lights of the lamps, and by the strong 
 perfumes of the incense in the warm balmy atmosphere. 
 Here the pilgrims, — beggars, princes, friars, Greek 
 
 z 3 
 
258 CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 
 
 priests^ Armenians, or Copts, — are all one in spirit; 
 and they bow low as they kneel and kiss, with weeping, 
 the marble slab of the tomb, worn as it has been by its 
 myriads of visitors. Beholding the emotion of these 
 pilgrims, I felt at first a feeling resembling shame that 
 I did not bow down with them and show as much 
 apparent affection for my Lord and Saviour; but the 
 whole affair was so tricksy and evidently false, that I 
 could not do it. Behind this shrine, against its western 
 pentagonal wall, in an obscure situation, is the place 
 allotted to the poor Copts for worship. It is small and 
 mean, and they are evidently treated as underlings by 
 the Latins and Greeks. Still further back, and through 
 the western wall of the Rotunda, we were shown a vault 
 which they call the tomb of Joseph of Arimathea ; but 
 which appears much too short to hold a human body. 
 
 Returning to the front of the shrine, we were led to 
 the gates of the Greek chapel, which is, in fact, the 
 nave of the builing ; and is most gorgeously gilded and 
 enriched all over with screens, stalls, and canopied seats 
 for the dignitaries. Numerous lamps, gold and silver, 
 hang suspended from its central lantern, or are swung 
 in clumps from the roof, which are kept ever burning. 
 In the middle of the floor is a marble vase, said to mark 
 the navel or centre of the earth, and to contain the clay 
 from which Adam's body was made. Passing out of the 
 gates of the Greek chapel, we were led into a vestry- 
 like room on the south side, and shown the large 
 sword and brass spurs of the heroic Godfrey, used in 
 the investment of those pUgrims deemed worthy among 
 Roman Catholic nobility of admission to the order of 
 St. John of Jerusalem. Afterwards we were shown 
 various '^holy places," such as that where Christ 
 
CHURCH OF THE HOLY 8EPULCHRE. 259 
 
 appeared to Mary His mother after the Resurrection^ 
 the pillar to which he was bound when He was scourged 
 by Pilate, the prison where He was confined during the 
 interval between His condemnation and crucifixion, and 
 the very impressive crypto or subterranean chapel at the 
 east, said to have been built by St. Helena, the mother 
 of Constantine, over the spot where she found the real 
 cross. Proceeding round the screen of the Greek 
 chapel, we reached the eastern side of the south tran- 
 sept, at which we first entered the church. Here we 
 ascended some steep steps cut in the rock to what they 
 show as the site of Calvary. It is a curiously arched 
 chapel, lighted with lamps, adorned with pictures, very 
 beautifully paved ; and under the altar table there is an 
 orifice, encircled with gold, which is perpetually kept 
 open and often perfumed, and wherein they assert the 
 foot of the cross was placed. They likewise lift up a 
 silver strip of the pavement, right of the altar, and show 
 you beneath it a part of the rock which, they say, was 
 rent as Christ expired. At the side of this chapel is 
 another of meaner furniture, where, they affirm, the 
 cross was laid upon the ground while Jesus was nailed 
 to it ; and in the vestibule beneath are the mutilated 
 tombs of Godfrey Bouillon and his brother Baldwin, the 
 crusading kings of Jerusalem, In each of these locali- 
 ties there were devotees kneeling, making genuflexions, 
 kissing the stones, and some of them shedding tears. 
 It is impossible to think of so many " holy places '' 
 within the limited space, without suspecting them to be 
 '' pious frauds ; " yet, while rejecting the multitude of 
 more modern inventions, one cannot but reflect that 
 somewhere within this very enclosure, where Christian 
 pilgrims have come for fifteen centuries, may have trans- 
 
260 CHURCH or the holy sepulchre. 
 
 pired the Saviour^s crucifixion. It is hard to believe 
 that the primitive Christians, engaged as they were with 
 spiritual matters, and scattered as they were by perse- 
 cutions, would altogether disregard, or lose the remem- 
 brance of the place where Christ was crucified ; though 
 doubtless for wise ends, and to save mankind from 
 idolatry and superstition, the exact spots of events con- 
 nected with the Saviour^s life and death, have, for the 
 most part, like the burial-place of Moses, been lost to 
 the knowledge of mankind. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 Journey to Bethlehem — Rachel's Tomb — Salesmen in Bethlehem — Church 
 of the Nativity — Tombs and Shrines — The Plains of Bethlehem — 
 The Garden of Gethsemane — Ancient Olives — Pentecost and a Sacra- 
 ment with Christian Jews, in Jerusalem — Room of the Passover — 
 Pool of Bethesda — View from the Mount of Olives to the Dead Sea 
 and the Mountains of Moab — Journey to Bethel — Gibeah — Mizpeh — 
 Ramah — The Mosque of Omar and the Tower of Hippicus — Farewell 
 to Jerusalem — Journey back to Jaffa — Voyage Home. 
 
 Sat.f May 18. — Up to an early breakfast^ and by- 
 six o'clock the iron-shod hoofs of our horses were 
 clattering on the hard^ slippery pavement of Jerusalem. 
 We climbed the narrow street and passed out of the 
 Jaffa Gate^ for Bethlehem. Turning to the left, we 
 descended into a valley, and after skirting the large 
 lower pool of Gihon, which is hewn out of the solid 
 rock, we passed a long string of alms-houses, erected 
 for poor Jews by Sir Moses Montefiore. Then we rode 
 among pleasant fields in the plain of Rephaim, where 
 David conquered the Philistines, to the Greek Convent 
 of Mar Elias, — where, in contradiction to Scripture, the 
 monks say the prophet EHjah was fed by angels under 
 an olive tree when he fled from Jezebel. We then 
 descended by an easy slope to K/acheFs Tomb, — a 
 cupola-roofed building which is neither imposing nor of 
 
262 SALESMEN IN BETHLEHEM. 
 
 great antiquity; but whicli, no one seems to doubt, 
 occupies the veritable site where Jacob buried his 
 favourite wife. On the hill before us we could see 
 Bethlehem, standing on the crown of a succession of 
 terraced gardens. Its buildings appeared castellated, as 
 seen from a distance. 
 
 Winding by an uneven path of loose stones, we 
 entered Bethlehem, and found it much less imposing 
 and attractive than we expected. The streets were nar- 
 row and irregular ; the dwellings poor ; and within 
 some of them might be seen the people at work upon 
 mother-of-pearl relics, sandal- wood, beads, &c. A crowd 
 was soon arotmd us, offering beads and carvings for sale. 
 The men, women, and boys, were clad in dresses of gay 
 colours, in which red and scarlet prevailed. The inhab- 
 itants are Christians. Many of the women were beau- 
 tiful in feature, dignified in their bearing, and wore 
 crosses and rosaries. The Bethlehemite men, however, 
 while fine both in figure and countenance, are said to 
 be a fierce race. They have a sturdy, fearless look, 
 something like the Highlanders of Scotland ; and we 
 found them to be exceedingly clamorous in pushing 
 their sales, and crying for " backsheesh.'^ They fol- 
 lowed us to the Convent Church of the Nativity, and at 
 times did not seem merely to entreat alms, but some- 
 what threateningly to demand them. On entering the 
 church we found the nave large and imposing. It is, 
 undoubtedly, the oldest part of the building, and is said 
 to have been erected by the Empress Helena on the 
 model of an ancient Basilica. The pillars of the nave 
 are of reddish marble, and are, perhaps, older than any 
 other part of the church; having been brought, it is 
 supposed, from another edifice. It is covered with an 
 
CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY. 
 
 263 
 
 open roof, wliich must have been renewed since the 
 church was first built. The building looks dirty, and, 
 in this part of it, seems much neglected. 
 
 From the nave we passed into an aisle on the left, and 
 then were conducted into a large room of the convent, 
 cushioned round, as a sort of refectory for pilgrims. It 
 was a day of abstinence ; so we were furnished with 
 plain viands, very rudely cooked, and brought by shaven 
 monks in their brown dresses and hoods. They then 
 took us to see the place where Christ was said to be 
 born, which is at the east end of the church, in a cave or 
 recess scooped out of the rock, and reached by descend- 
 ing steps. It is adorned in the Romish way with pic- 
 tures and tinsel, and is overhung with numerous lamps 
 of gold and silver, reflecting various colours. Opposite 
 this shrine of the Nativity is that of Joseph, the hus- 
 band of Mary, with similar gaudy adornments. We 
 stood and saw the visitors come and bow ; and although 
 we did not bow with them, we could not shake off a 
 feeling of reverence ; for we reflected that if the manger 
 in which our Lord was laid were not situated here, it 
 must have been in some spot near at hand. 
 
 In this underground region we were also shown the 
 cave and grotto of St. Jerome, in which he is said to 
 have fasted, prayed, and translated the Scriptures into 
 Latin : the translation called the " Vulgate," in com- 
 mon use among Roman Catholics. Near to the gloomy 
 abode and burial-place of the great recluse, there are 
 the tombs and altars of S. S. Paula, his devoted 
 patroness, and of her daughter Eustachia, as also of 
 some saint named "Eusebius," which cannot be the 
 celebrated church historian, though the monks would 
 fain have you believe it is. We left these vaults and 
 
364 PLAINS OF BETHLEHEM. 
 
 passages, with their glimmering lamps, rude altars, 
 and pictures ; and emerged from the crypt of the 
 Nativity by a flight of stairs leading into the Greek 
 portion of the church, which was dazzling all over 
 with pictures, gold, and swinging lamps, in their usual 
 way. 
 
 From the convent we walked forth eastward to see 
 the Plains of Bethlehem ; and felt that here again we 
 were amidst realities. The day was in character with 
 the scene contemplated. The heavens were serenely 
 beautiful, and radiant with pure blue light. No doubt 
 it was surrounded by these mountains, and upon these 
 green and lovely plains, that the shepherds kept watch 
 over their flocks by night, and heard overhead the 
 angels sing the incarnation-hymn. It was here, also, 
 that the son of Jesse kept his father's sheep ; and from 
 the caves of the rugged and desolate mountains around 
 came the lion and the bear which he slew before 
 he challenged and slew the uncircumcised Philistine, 
 the shaft of whose spear was like a weaver's beam. 
 From hence he fled to the wilderness of Engedi beyond 
 from the jealous Saul, and sheltered in the cave of 
 AduUam. Here, also, Ruth, the Moabitess, followed 
 the gleaners in the field of Boaz. I sketched the whole 
 scene of beauty and heart-thrilling interest ; after which 
 we returned by the Milk Grotto, in which tradition 
 relates that the Virgin and Child were hid from the 
 fury of Herod the royal assassin, before their flight into 
 Egypt; and returned to the convent. After another 
 survey of the church and its crypts, we remounted our 
 horses, and rode back by Rachel's tomb to Jerusalem, 
 full of deep and tender reflections on what we had seen, 
 leaving behind us the " Three Pools of Solomon,^' and 
 
GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 
 
 ?65 
 
 beyond them Hebron, the city of the Patriarchs, and 
 the southern border of the Promised Land. 
 
 Finding we had yet some time on our hands, we rode 
 slowly through Jerusalem, then out at St. Stephen^s 
 Gate, and descended to the foot of the Mount of Olives, 
 that we might view more deliberately the Garden of 
 Gethsemane. The monks have modernized it by en- 
 closing it with a wall, and by planting it as a " gar- 
 den ; ^^ but when you look upon its ancient olives, their 
 immense boles gnarled, knotted, and twisted, like so 
 many huge en wreathed serpents, they seem so old, that 
 you are ready to believe they overarched the Man of 
 Sorrows in that night of His mysterious agony, when 
 He lay prostrate on the ground, and " sweat, as it were, 
 great drops of blood." You feel sure that if it were not 
 actually here, it was not many paces off, when He cried, 
 " Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from Me ! " 
 and where through the darkness He beheld the gleam- 
 ing torches and the approach of the base betrayer. It 
 was a spot to awaken feelings which one cannot and 
 would not describe. The monks were reverentially 
 respectful to my wife, and gave her flowers from the 
 garden, and a bit of the branch of one of the olive- 
 trees. After sketching the ancient trees, I went alone 
 in the solemn evening to view and sketch the tombs of 
 St. James and Zechariah in the valley of Kidron, sur- 
 rounded as they were by the thousands of Jewish graves 
 which I had previously beheld. It was night-fall when 
 I got back to the city ; and I was only just in time to 
 pass through the gate before closed at sunset. 
 
 Sun., May 19. — We attended service at the English 
 Protestant Church, which stands opposite the Tower of 
 Hippicus, on Mount Zion, and not far from the Jaffa 
 
 A A 
 
266 ROOM OF THE PASSOVER. 
 
 Gate. It is a plain Gothic structure, without any 
 tower, looking in its front like the east end of an 
 English church, with the parapet sloping up to a cen- 
 tral point. The congregation was good, and composed 
 largely of converted Jews. In the transept on the right 
 were seated a number of Syrian youths who have been 
 brought to Jerusalem, and are taught in a school situ- 
 ated in the city of David, and which the present 
 Bishop of Jerusalem, Dr. Gobat, who is supported 
 jointly by England and Prussia, founded, and superin- 
 tends. After the liturgy we had a good plain evangelical 
 sermon by a clergyman, (who preached extemporarily,) 
 on, " Have ye received the Holy Ghost ? " it being 
 Whitsunday. We remained, and partook of the Lord^s 
 Supper, with the solemnly joyful feeling that we were 
 really " come to Mount Zion," and were holding Chris- 
 tian fellowship with converted Jews. We looked for- 
 ward to the time when there will be literallv one fold 
 under one Shepherd. But even now all sectarian views 
 and feelings were gone, and we experienced one large 
 yearning for the establishment of Christ^s kingdom 
 over all the earth. 
 
 It being Pentecost, we went from the church to visit 
 the Room where it is said the Saviour kept the Pass- 
 over with His disciples, and where the Holy Ghost 
 descended upon them in cloven tongues of fire. It is an 
 old, large upper- room at the southern part of the city of 
 David ; but, from its early pointed arches, it is evidently 
 a building of only modern antiquity. It may stand on 
 the site where Christ took the Last Supper with His 
 disciples; but it cannot be the veritable chamber in 
 which He washed their feet, and spake to them the 
 sweetest words of tenderness and consolation that ever 
 
POOL OF BETHESDA. 
 
 267 
 
 His voice uttered. From this room there is a descent 
 by steps, under a canopy, to the entrance of the Tomb 
 of David, which is more exclusively guarded and 
 reserved by the Turks from infidel eyes than the 
 mosque of Omar itself. We were not allowed to de- 
 scend the steps, much less to enter the tomb ; and our 
 American friend was pushed away from the very sight 
 of the entrance, somewhat roughly, and with Moslem 
 threats. On our return we entered the church of St. 
 James, connected with the Armenian convent, and 
 which has been highly decorated with presentation pic- 
 tures and jewelry by wealthy pilgrims. In the evening 
 we again attended Divine service in the English church, 
 and heard one of the missionaries to the Jews preach a 
 good sermon, on " Quench not the Spirit ; '* but not so 
 plainly evangelical as that we heard in the morning, — 
 and, being only read, not so efiective in the delivery. 
 
 Mon., May 20. — Rose early : went and sketched the 
 '' Via Dolorosa, and the " Ecce Homo ; '^ and then 
 turned into a convent, where they show another place, 
 in which they say Christ was scourged, giving me still 
 less confidence in their showings. After breakfast 
 sketched the " Pool of Betliesda," as it is named. It is 
 a kind of huge tank, in a remarkable situation between 
 St. Stephen^s Gate and the temple-site ; and there is 
 room enough for the five porches to have stood by it ; 
 but whether it be the identical piece of water beside 
 which the impotent man sat when Christ bade him take 
 up his bed and walk, is questionable. It is much larger 
 than Hezekiah's Pool, another piece of water which lay 
 next our hotel, in Christian, or Patriarch Street, and 
 which is said to have been provided by the pious king 
 for the supply of Jerusalem ; but it is impossible to tell 
 
 2 A 2 
 
268 JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 what reliance is to be placed on the tradition. Possibly 
 it is nothing more than a deep fosse which separated the 
 fortress of Antonia from Bezetha. I afterwards called on 
 the Consul, Mr. Finn ; and found him exceedingly courte- 
 ous and obliging. He showed me a fine view of the 
 city from the upper part of his house; and kindly 
 pointed out some of the remarkable sights in Jerusalem. 
 He also promised to send the next day a Janisary, who 
 should conduct me to a spot where I could have a good 
 view of the mosque of Omar and its court. 
 
 In the afternoon rode with my wife, and our Jew 
 guide, by the left road over the Mount of Olivet to the 
 other side of its crown ; and descending as far as it was 
 thought safe from thieves, we beheld the extensive 
 scene. Bethany was on our right, under the brow of 
 the hill ; before us were the broken, rugged hills of the 
 barren wilderness where Christ endured His temptation, 
 — a most desolate-looking region. Far away on our 
 right, over the brown wilderness, lay the " Dead Sea." 
 It was of a heavy leaden colour; and stretching away 
 to the left, but still beyond the '^ wilderness of Judea," 
 was the winding line of the Jordan, clothed with ver- 
 dure at its sides and banks. Our guide pointed out to 
 us the serpentine part where the Israelites crossed. 
 Stretching far beyond all, in the soft purple distance, 
 were the mountains of Gilead and Moab, with Nebo 
 amongst them, from which Moses viewed the " goodly 
 land," and on which he died. In the less remote dis- 
 tance, between the line of the Jordan and the barren 
 hills of the wilderness, may be discerned the ruinous 
 heaps of ancient and modern Jericho ; and one could 
 now plainly understand how the man who fell among 
 thieves "went down" to Jericho. It is a very dan- 
 gerous road, along which the traveller needs trusty 
 
JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 269 
 
 soldiers to guard him. Some travellers from the North, 
 of England, who had gone down thence a few days 
 before, had been robbed and stripped ; and a sheik was 
 then in prison, to be confined there until the stolen 
 property was restored. In our foreground was a 
 Turkish burial-ground, with goats in it, feeding under 
 the guardianship of a Syrian shepherd, and with a small 
 mosque to the right upon it. We observed here several 
 lovely flowers and interesting shrubs ; and among them 
 a profusion of the prickly green thorn, of which, most 
 probably, the Saviour's plaited crown was made by the 
 soldiers, when they mocked Him and set Him at 
 nought. The sweet, green herbage of the burial-place 
 formed a beautiful contrast to the barren tract beyond, 
 while the shepherd's turban and coloured dress, the 
 black goats, and the mosque, served to give distance to 
 the picture. The vast vault of heaven arched itself in 
 bright translucent blue over the whole. After I had 
 sketched this view, we returned by the middle path over 
 the Mount of Olives, seeing in our way the " Caves of 
 the Prophets," and having from that neighbourhood a 
 full view of the platform on which the temple stood, 
 with the walls and buildings of the city around it. 
 
 But what a melancholy usurpation we were wit- 
 nessing ! On that rocky platform Abraham, at the 
 command of God, went forth to offer up his son ; and 
 there he received the promise of divine blessing upon 
 himself and upon his seed. There Solomon raised his 
 magnificent temple, and at its opening supplicated 
 Jehovah in that lofty strain, while the incense rose to 
 heaven, and smoke went up from thousands of bullocks 
 and rams, consumed in sacrifice. And there Christ 
 walked and worshipped with His disciples, performed 
 
 2 A 3 
 
270 JOURNEY TO BETHEL. 
 
 many of His miracles of mercy, and taught the people 
 with words of wisdom, which compelled them to say, 
 " Never man spake like this man ! " But there, noWy 
 the children of Abraham were mere scouted refugees in 
 rags and wretchedness, and the proud, sluggish, and 
 sensual Mahomedan had seized the greater part of the 
 inheritance, while the gilded crescent from the dome of 
 Omar proclaimed it his own. Most likely over this 
 very road on which we stood David fled into the wilder- 
 ness at Absalom^s rebellion ; and from this very spot 
 where we have been standing to look upon Jerusalem 
 in its ruin, David's Lord beheld the city, and wept 
 over it. 
 
 Tues.y May 21. — Rode off at early morning with our 
 Jew guide for Bethel, which lies some twelve miles 
 north of Jerusalem. Passing out of the Jafia Gate we 
 turned to the right, and doubled the north-west of the 
 city-wall, observing how at this higher point, where 
 assailed by invaders, from Nebuchadnezzar to Saladin, 
 the city was most vulnerable : thence descending till 
 we reached the broad Damascus Gate, with its flanking, 
 embattled towers, and many marks of fray and siege, — we 
 struck northward into the road for Bethel. About a mile 
 forward, after viewing what tradition calls the " Grotto 
 of Jeremiah," we reached a singular excavation, called 
 the " Tomb of the Kings," but which is supposed to be 
 the burial-place of the Empress Helena, the mother of 
 Constantine the Great. It is situated at the western 
 side of a large area, or court-yard, sunk in the solid 
 rock, and, like the Tomb of the Prophets, and other 
 burial-vaults about the city, is a series of chambers, 
 with arched recesses at the sides for bodies, something 
 after the manner of the Catacombs at Rome. The front 
 has had a deep and elaborate frieze and cornice, sup- 
 
TOMB OF THE KINGS. 
 
 271 
 
 ported by two pillars ; and the chambers^ or vaults_, 
 were reached through a low doorway, closed from obser- 
 vation by a huge rolling- door, which fitted so closely 
 that the place of opening could not be discerned. 
 This tomb of "the rich/' whether of Helena or the 
 Kings, strikingly illustrates, in its principal features, the 
 incidental notices given by the Evangelists of the Tomb 
 of Joseph of Arimathea, in which the body of Jesus was 
 laid. Like the new tomb belonging to that rich man, 
 — and like all the ancient tombs of importance at Jeru- 
 salem, — it is hewn out of a rock. Its sunken area of 
 nearly ninety feet square in front, planted with shrubs 
 and trees, shows how the sepulchre, though on Golgotha, 
 the place of skulls, was in a garden, where Mary 
 Magdalene mistook the risen Saviour for the gardener. 
 The low doorway, some three feet square, leading to 
 excavated chambers within, explains how John and the 
 women, stooping down, looked in, and how Peter and 
 others, went into the sepulchre, and saw there the linen 
 clothes lying, and the napkin that was about His head 
 not lying with them, but wrapped up together in a place 
 by itself; while the ponderous millstone cover to the 
 mouth of the sepulchre, rolling to and fro in a groove, 
 would be sufficient to induce the inquiry by women 
 desirous of entering. Who shall roll us away the stone 
 from the door of the sepulchre ? Indeed, the truthful- 
 ness of the Gospel narrative on this event, as on other 
 events, is singularly evident at Jerusalem. 
 
 Soon after, we left the road leading to Anathoth, the 
 birth-place of Jeremiah, and climbed the stone-terraced 
 height of Gibeah, a place associated in our minds with 
 the names of Saul and Samuel from the time we read 
 the historical books of Scripture in our childhood. 
 
272 RAMAH. 
 
 Then, on the left, rose Mizpeh, crowning a lofty green 
 hill, and we could imagine the prophet Samuel from 
 thence surveying the country round. Among the hills 
 north of Mizpeh our guide pointed out Gibeon ; and we 
 soon met companies of Gibeonites going to Jerusalem 
 with broken wood upon their heads, and asses ; for they 
 are still " hewers of wood and drawers of water/' We 
 then descended by a zig-zag path into a valley deep and 
 rugged, and had shown to us the scene of Jonathan's 
 adventure with the Philistines, and where his father 
 said he must die for having tasted a little honey out of 
 the rock. We passed Ramah on the crown of a rounded 
 hill amidst trees. It was a pleasant abode for the 
 " school of the prophets,'^ which had the venerable 
 Samuel for its head, and where Saul was once seized 
 with the spirit of prophecy, if that was the real Ramah 
 of Samuel. Skirting the western side of that hill, the 
 rocky, shelving road conducts us to Bethoron, and on to 
 Bethel ; and on our way our guide pointed out to us, in 
 the far left, the " hilly country '^ to which the Virgin 
 ascended on her visit to Elizabeth her cousin, the 
 mother of the Baptist ; and also the place where Jesus 
 was missed in His boyhood from the company, and 
 whence Joseph and Mary returned to Jerusalem to 
 seek Him. It was interesting to have even imaginary 
 spots pointed out to us connected with the history of our 
 blessed Lord ; but we could not help feeling that they 
 might be only imaginary. 
 
 Still pursuing our way northwards on rough and 
 rocky roads, and over hills, on the ledges of which the 
 stone platforms were worn bright by horses' hoofs, we 
 passed Bethoron, and soon reached Bethel. This, also, 
 is a village in ruins. Its scanty inhabitants live ie* 
 
BETHEL. 
 
 273 
 
 falling hovels; and there are the ruins of a Greek 
 churchy near which is a dried basin of a large pool. 
 There are pleasant fields all around ; and on the ridge 
 of a high hill beyond stands the remnant of a square 
 tower, called " JacoVs Pillar." It is said to be on this 
 spot that the youthful fugitive patriarch slept on his 
 pillow of stone that memorable night when God ap- 
 peared to him at the top of the ladder of ascending and 
 descending angels, and promised to be with him, and to 
 give him and his seed that land for an inheritance. We 
 now dismounted, and took a meal from the provisions 
 which we had brought with us, under the broad shade 
 of a fig-tree, in a garden near one of the half-ruined 
 houses of the village. From the flat roof of one of these 
 houses I sketched the surrounding scenes, while the 
 Arabs and their children gathered around us, and cried 
 vociferously their everlasting " backsheesh ! " 
 
 We returned over the hills and valleys on the way we 
 came, until we nearly reached Jerusalem, when we rode 
 somewhat westwards, and visited what are called the 
 " Tombs of the Judges." These are, perhaps, the most 
 perfect and extensive of the impressive series of exca- 
 vated tombs which surround the greater part of the 
 city. The whole mountain -range, from the north-west 
 corner of Jerusalem to the village of Siloam, and up 
 the valley of the son of Hinnom, is honeycombed with 
 sepulchres, which often consist of many chambers, ex- 
 tending far into the rock ; so that it is said, there are 
 more tombs in the hills around the holy city than there 
 are houses within it. Tradition states, that in these 
 excavations persecuted Christians often took refuge, 
 and had their abodes. After a view from Mount 
 Scopus, where the Roman army under Titus encamped. 
 
274 MOSQUE OP OMAR. 
 
 — we glanced at the hilly platform from whence the 
 imperial legions made their most successful assault 
 upon the city ; but we did not remain long to view it, 
 being fairly wearied out with our ten hours^ ride under 
 a Syrian sun. 
 
 Wed., May 22. — By six in the morning, in fulfilment 
 of the Consul's promise, a janisary came to our hotel 
 to conduct me to the Turkish barracks, which overlook 
 the court-yard of the mosque of Omar, or ancient 
 temple- site. He preceded me through the streets, 
 striking his long silver-topped staff against the pave- 
 ment, like a drum -major walking before a regimental 
 band ; calling the attention of passengers in the street, 
 and the inhabitants of the houses, to the fact that some- 
 thing important was going on. I was somewhat tickled 
 with this parade ; but was gratified to find that it secured 
 for me an easy passage through troops, and guards, and 
 sentinels, to the ramparts of the citadel. Here, where 
 Josephus places the proud tower of Antonia, stood, in 
 all probability, the castle and palace of the governor of 
 Jerusalem; and here, most likely, was the judgment- 
 hall in which Jesus was accused by the Jews, and con- 
 demned by Pilate. From this point of view, the pano- 
 rama of the city was more complete than from any 
 other ; and from it the temple-site, and the buildings 
 upon it, are beheld to great advantage. You see plainly 
 from hence that the large spacious platform, which is 
 now occupied by the mosque of Omar and its court- 
 yard, has been perfectly levelled by the hand of man in 
 former ages ; so as to render it fit for a temple so ample 
 as that of Solomon, with all its necessary adjuncts for 
 the sacrifices of animals, and the dwellings of priests. 
 The mosque itself, which, with its many- coloured 
 
MOSQUE or OMAR. 
 
 275 
 
 marbles and glittering dome of rainbow hues^ may lay 
 claim to magnificence, occupies comparatively but a 
 small part of this vast, prepared platform. It stands on 
 the spot where the altar of Jehovah stood, and covers 
 the part of the rock of Mount Moriah which projects up- 
 wards above the ground ; and through which, it is said, 
 there is a channel perforated down to the vast vaults 
 below, as before noted. These vaults must have had 
 their outlet in the vale of Kidron; for this was the 
 great drain for the blood, offal, and washings of the 
 
 sacrifices. Bancroft Libnoy 
 
 The mosque is enclosed at some distance in a square 
 of low Saracenic buildings, which is paved with marble, 
 and entered on each side by high and ornamental gates. 
 On this stand praying-shrines, fountains, and the exqui- 
 site Arabic pulpit, so well known. Between this square 
 and the rampart of the citadel is a large space which 
 seems to form a solemn promenade for the Moslems, 
 and into which "infidel dogs,^' Christian or Jew, are 
 not allowed to enter. There is a small domed erection 
 in it on the left, as you look down from the rampart, 
 which is called " Solomon^s Throne ; " while on the 
 right, in the distance, are groups of olives and cypresses, 
 with buildings of eastern shapes, and towering above 
 them the tall minaret, from which we heard the muezzin, 
 so often during the day and night, cry, " Allah, Akbar V' 
 and, " Come to prayers ! '^ At the southern extremity, 
 in the middle, is the church-like mosque of El-Aksa, 
 with its beautiful dome. On the right, is a range 
 of cloister-like buildings for dervishes, and Moslem 
 ecclesiastics. The distant landscape is composed of the 
 Mount of Olives on the left, the mountains of Moab in 
 the far centre ; before them rises the Mount of Offence ;^' 
 
276 TOWER OF HIPPICUS. 
 
 and the hill of " Evil Counsel '^ is on the right ; while 
 Mount Zion, and the buildings of the Jews^ and Turks' 
 quarters, are seen over the western enclosure. I 
 sketched and coloured these, to make myself familiar 
 with such deeply-interesting objects, as beheld from this 
 elevated position on the roof of the barracks. 
 
 The janisary proceeded with me through the streets 
 of the city, to the tower of Hippicus, striking his iron- 
 pointed staff on the pavement very vehemently, and 
 holding his head aloft. This is a broad massive fortifi- 
 cation, an undoubted remnant, as we have seen, of the 
 ancient Jerusalem, of the time of Herod; Josephus 
 himself stating that it was spared at the siege, by Titus, 
 A.D. 70. It stands at the boundary of the western wall, 
 near the Jaffa Gate. From the upper part of it I had 
 another extensive view of the city. 
 
 Leaving the janisary, I proceeded alone on the road 
 which passes by the Armenian convent, and out at the 
 Zion gate, to the large upper room of the Passover, 
 which I had visited on the preceding Sunday; and, 
 having obtained an entrance, I sat to sketch it. The 
 Arabs, old and young, crowded round me, and with 
 curious looks watched the tracing on paper of the pillars 
 and groined arches of this ancient chamber. They were 
 so familiarly officious in their attempts to help me, — 
 putting their hands quickly into my pockets to reach 
 pencil or penknife, when they thought I wanted it, — 
 and coming so near to my face, that I felt, at times, a 
 little apprehensive as to what they might next do 
 towards a stranger who was entirely in their power. 
 But I persevered with my sketch, new visitors crowding 
 in, and showing equal interest in it, — even Nubian 
 women, as well as Arab men, appearing before me, and 
 
FAREWELL TO JERUSALEM. 277 
 
 placing themselves in certain postures, that I might put 
 them into my picture. But I did not gratify more than 
 one of them, for I had no time to spare ; and the one 
 figure was sufficient to give scale to the drawing. On 
 my way back I passed through the Jews' quarter of the 
 city, and saw a marriage procession highly illustrative 
 of the Parable of the Ten Virgins. The evening of our 
 last day in Jerusalem had come. I now returned to the 
 hotel, examined the account presented to me, which I 
 found to be reasonable, and made due preparation for 
 early departure on the morrow. 
 
 Thurs.j May 23. — Our horses were ready, and we left 
 the hotel at five o'clock in the morning. "We did not, 
 however, hasten along the road for the first hour, but 
 rather lingered, to take a last look at Jerusalem, and to 
 indulge in reflection on what we had seen, as also in the 
 thought that we might never, in mortal life, see it more. 
 The sun, which had just risen above the Mount of 
 Olives, and threw his soft, gentle light over the upper 
 part of the city, seemed to give additional tenderness to 
 our farewell ; while the deep shadow on this side of the 
 embattled walls and towers, and over the road along 
 which we were journeying, seemed to accord with our 
 sadness. Jerusalem looked wonderfully sorrowful to us 
 at that hour. But there gleamed over her hopeful 
 morning rays. After turning to take our last sight of 
 the Holy City, we descended the shelving road in 
 silence, — the thoughts of home gathering in our minds, 
 and mingling with the feeling that we had at last 
 realized our life-dream, and seen the choicest spot to be 
 viewed on earth. We pursued our way back, " up hill 
 and down dale ; '' for such was the nature of the road, 
 until we rested under a large old fig-tree, in the " heat 
 
 B B 
 
278 RETURN TO JAFFA. 
 
 of the day/^ to partake our meal. By about six in the 
 evening, we reached Uamleh, embosomed in its verdant 
 and lofty palms and huge cactuses. We remained at the 
 Latin convent for the night, and received most pleasing 
 hospitality from the monks, as before. 
 
 Frid.j May 26. — Left Ramleh early in the morning : 
 our road lying across the beautiful and cultivated valley 
 of Sharon. The Syrian peasants were already in the 
 fields, with their many-coloured dresses, some of them 
 heaping the corn on the backs of camels ; for it was still 
 reaping time. The sweet notes of birds were heard on 
 every hand ; and sights and sounds combined to remind 
 us that -we were in that valley of Sharon whose loveli- 
 ness was celebrated by Hebrew poets so many centuries 
 ago. We passed by strings of pilgrims on this and the 
 preceding day. They were Russians, Greeks, and some 
 of other nations, slowly returning from the great feast 
 of the Greek Church, which had terminated a short 
 time before we reached Jerusalem. We entered Jaffa 
 on a road enclosed by high cactus hedges, which were 
 in glorious blossom, and by the orange-groves, here so 
 extensive. We did not stay in Jaffa ; but made our 
 way through its descending narrow streets to the sea- 
 side, quickly passed our examination at the sort of 
 Custom-House, and, by a small boat, were at once 
 taken on board an Ailstrian steamer, about to sail for 
 Alexandria. We were off in an hour; and, before we 
 started, I sketched Jaffa as we beheld it from the vessel. 
 
 Our company on board gave us another glimpse into 
 eastern life. We had several pilgrims on their way to 
 Mecca ; a few rich Musselmen, who had each four or 
 five wives ; but of these women, as before, we seldom 
 saw more than the glance of their bright eyes from 
 
RETURN TO ALEXANDRIA. 279 
 
 behind the curtains which were drawn across the closet- 
 like places, in which they were secreted, at the sides of 
 the deck. The whole of the middle and fore-deck was 
 crowded with passengers of an inferior grade : some 
 poorer pilgrims on their way to Mecca, — others Jews 
 going to Alexandria or Cairo for trade ; and these, with 
 the Jewish women, (several of them very beautiful,) 
 were all huddled together like so many cattle. 
 
 Sat., May 25. — After a pleasant voyage we reached 
 Alexandria at five in the evening. We landed, and 
 drove to our hotel ; found there our Australian birds, 
 which had been pleasant cabin companions to us in our 
 homeward voyage, safe. Then we went to look after 
 our lost luggage ; and were told that, after diligent 
 search and inquiry, it was ascertained that it had been 
 sent on to England by a wrong steamer. 
 
 Sun., May 26. — Attended the English Protestant 
 Church, which is a semi- Gothic and Saracenic structure, 
 not at all pleasing in its mongrel style of half- Christian 
 and half-Moslem architecture. It seems an attempted 
 union and compromise that is neither natural nor 
 desirable. 
 
 Mon., May 27. — Eound it difficult to settle with our 
 dragoman, who, after all the civilities and apparent 
 good-will he had shown us in our travel to Palestine, 
 wanted to overreach us by demands most exorbitantly 
 beyond the original agreement. I had to take him 
 before the English Consul, who declared that I had 
 handsomely dealt with him in my ofier and agreement, 
 for £2. 105. per day ; so he was compelled to give up his 
 demand. He afterwards came and apologized for the 
 trouble he had given, hoping that I would recommend 
 him to other travellers ; but I gave him no promise that 
 
 2 B 2 
 
280 VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 was likely to comfort him ; nor do I give him any other 
 recommendation than that contained in this recital. 
 The fortnight^s pilgrimage to the Holy Land, from 
 Alexandria, cost about £50, as at first estimated ; but I 
 learned that, with stricter economy, it might have been 
 made for less. 
 
 Tues.j May 28. — We had a final drive through Alex- 
 andria, past Pompey's Pillar, and other objects of 
 interest. By widening our circuit of observation, we 
 found mansions and villas, with their gardens, sur- 
 passing what we had seen before. We sailed from 
 Alexandria at five p.m., in the "Elora'' steamer, 
 belonging to the Peninsular and Oriental Company. 
 
 Wed., Thurs., Frid., and Sat,, May 29, to June 1. — 
 Pleasant sailing. Reached Malta on Saturday morning 
 by five ; and after going ashore to see the palace of the 
 Grand Master of the Knights, Armoury, &c., we sailed 
 from Malta by one at noon. 
 
 Sun., June 2. — Read Liturgy, and preached morning 
 and evening in the saloon of the steamer. 
 
 Mon., and Tues., June 3 and 4. — Pleasant sailing 
 along the Mediterranean, with interesting glimpses of 
 the African coast. 
 
 Wed., June 5. — Fine bold views of the Spanish coast 
 in the morning, — rich in colour. Two mountains, in 
 the distance, stood up like pyramids. Reached Gib- 
 raltar by half-past four, p.m., and left by nine at night ; 
 but did not go on shore ; because it had been announced 
 that we should sail earlier. It was found, however, that 
 the engine needed some slight repair, so that there was 
 some delay. 
 
 Thurs., Frid., and Sat., June 6, 7, and 8. — Somewhat 
 
VOYAGE HOME. 281 
 
 rough sailing along the Portuguese and Spanish coasts, 
 until we came to the Bay of Biscay. 
 
 Sun, J June 9. — In the Bay of Biscay : the sea smooth, 
 and the weather fine. Bead Liturgy, and preached ; 
 thankful to find now, as before, so many desirous of 
 uniting in religious services, — especially of the military 
 class. It was also a pleasing reflection that, on the trial 
 made over nearly the full width of the globe, so much 
 real union exists among true Christians of different 
 denominations. 
 
 Mon., June 10. — At six in the evening, Plymouth in 
 sight, and ships crowding up the Channel. 
 
 Tues.j June II. — Passed the ^^ Needles'^ at six in the 
 morning, entered the Channel between the Isle of Wight 
 and the coast of Hampshire, and felt, after all the lovely 
 scenes we had witnessed, there was nothing so lovely as 
 dear old England. Beached Southampton Pier at nine 
 o'clock ; and, on inquiry, found our missing luggage in 
 the Queen's Warehouse, by the water-side. Set off by 
 rail at half-an-hour before noon, and arrived at the 
 Waterloo Station at three in the afternoon, earnestlv 
 grateful to the Father of mercies for His signal Provi- 
 dence over us in our long travel, and for His gracious 
 preservation of us from all injuries, in these changeful 
 nine months. 
 
 2 B 3 
 
LONDOI? : 
 
 PRINTED BT "WILLIAM NICHOLS, 
 
 3?, LONDON fVALL. 
 
Dxh feg % same %ni\ax. 
 
 In One Volume, post Svo., ornamental cloth, price 'tis. 6d., 
 
 AMEEICA, 
 
 AND 
 
 AMEEICAN METHODISM 
 
 WITH A. PREFATORY LETTER BY THE REV. JOHN HANNAH, D.O. 
 
 ILLUSTUATED PROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
 "A BEAUTIFUL volumc, wMch we take the earliest opportunity of 
 announcing, and which we hope ere long to commend more effectively by 
 quoting a few of its vivid passages, — descriptions to the * fidelity ' of which, 
 ' as well as to their beauty and force,' Dr. Hannah bears * willing 
 testimony.' " — Wesleyan Magazine. 
 
 " Multitudes will be happy once more to meet Dr. Jobson, who is a 
 man of a genial spirit, and a highly captivating writer. His large heart 
 finds its way into his work, and breathes strongly through every page of it. 
 A better travelling companion England could not furnish, or a better nar- 
 rator of passing occurrences Rarely have we met a publication of the 
 
 kind that contained so much quotable matter. Every page presents impor- 
 tant facts, and every paragraph is gemmed with beauty Admirable 
 
 everywhere, he particularly excels when touching on Slavery ; and his book 
 in this respect cannot fail to be productive of the best effects when it shall 
 have been reproduced among the Americans. The frown and the sorrow of 
 such a man wiU not go for nothing among that spirited and high-minded 
 people." — British Standard. 
 
 " The views of the author, for one who spent so short a time in this 
 
 country, and nearly all of it occupied in travel, are very correct Those 
 
 who were permitted to converse with Dr. Jobson, and those who listened to 
 his sermons and addresses, express great admiration for him as a Christian 
 gentleman and as a preacher, which estimation will be confirmed by this 
 book." — Zion's Herald, Boston, United States. 
 
 *' Did our space permit, we could interest our readers with a number of 
 well-written descriptions of places and persons that came under the observa- 
 tion of our traveller : that of the Falls of Niagara is specially worthy of notice, 
 and might be read with pleasure even by those who have visited this wonder 
 
 of our world We have much pleasure in commending the book for a wide 
 
 circulation even in Canada, as, we doubt not, such is the prospect in England." 
 Christian Guardian, Toronto^ Canada^ 
 
Z WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 
 
 " Every page gives evidence of the serious spirit of observation whicli 
 animated the writer, as he passed, with a raaging, ready eye, and an open 
 heart and mind, from city to city, and from state to state, over tracts of 
 country full of the elements of deep interest to a Christian Englishman." — 
 London Quarterly/ Review. 
 
 "De. Jobson's book combines substance with bright colouring. It is not 
 only a very interesting narrative of voyage and travel, but a highly valuable 
 addition to our staple information in regard to America. It is just such a 
 manual on the subject of American Methodism as was greatly needed in this 
 country, and must be extensively welcomed. And it presents the fairest 
 and fiillest view of the relations of Methodism to Slavery in the United 
 States which we have yet seen." — JFatchman. 
 
 "Dr. Jobson possesses many of the requisites necessary for the produc- 
 tion of a work like the one he has given us. In the first place he has a 
 mature judgment, a ready and an eloquent pen ; and added to this, he has a 
 tact for observing whatever is noteworthy in nature or art, and he has the 
 valuable talent of being able to dash off some of the most admirable scenes, 
 and transfer them to his sketch-book." — Bradford Observer. 
 
 " Well worthy of study by aU who take an interest in the management 
 of church aflFairs, and are willing to condescend to take valuable hints, come 
 whence they may." — Christian Times. 
 
 " One of the best and most readable books we have on America : mode- 
 rate in tone, manly in sentiment, clear and simple in diction, and pervaded 
 throughout with the spirit of genuine philanthropy and piety." — Christian 
 FamUy Record. 
 
 " We may commend this work as useful, informing, and, on the whdc, 
 creditable." — Athenaum. 
 
 In crown 8vo., price 4:S. embossed and gilt, and %s. plain, 
 
 THE SERVANT OF HIS GENERATION. 
 
 A TEIBUTE 
 
 TO THE MEMORY OP THE 
 
 EEV. JABEZ BUNTING, D.D„: 
 
 BEING A SERMON PREACHED ON THE OCCASION OP HIS 
 
 DEATH, IN EASTBROOK CHAPEL, BRADFORD, 
 
 YORKSHIRE, JULY 18TH, 1858: 
 
 WITH 
 
 A SKETCH OF HIS CHARACTER AND SERVICES. 
 
 " It is a faithful, noble, and attractive portraiture."— io«c?o» Review. 
 " This is a graceful monument to one of the masters in the modern 
 Israel." — Wesley an Magazine. 
 
WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 3 
 
 "This publication has been expected with considerable interest by all 
 who knew the friendly relations subsisting between the talented author and 
 the venerable subject of it, and it will not disappoint any reasonable expec- 
 tations. It is in every sense of the word a beautiful book ; beautifully * got 
 up,' and presenting a beautiful picture of an object that was ' beautiful 
 exceedingly.' " — Watchman. 
 
 " The subject and the preacher are alike worthy of each other. " We con- 
 sider the production a masterpiece, superior to everything of the kind that 
 Methodism has yet produced. The two or three panegyrics which have 
 come down to us from ancient times, even as literary compositions, are 
 inferior to it, and the celebrated eulogies of the French Academy are not to 
 be mentioned in the same day. It takes rank with Foster's character of 
 Hall, and Pratt's Dissertation on Cecil." — British Standard. 
 
 In crown ^vo., price 5j., 
 
 A MOTHER'S PORTRAIT: 
 
 BEING 
 
 A MEMORIAL OF FILIAL AFFECTION. 
 
 WITH 
 
 SKETCHES OF WESLEYAN LIFE AND RELIGIOUS 
 
 SERVICES. 
 
 Bltistrated by Twenty Engravings on Wood hy E. LANDELLS,yro»z Original 
 Pictures by J. Smetham and F. J. Jobson. 
 
 " This book, the production of Mr. Jobson, formerly of Lincoln, is, we 
 predict, destined to become popular. The parts devoted to mother and home 
 are enchanting, from the pure and simple affections stamped on every page." 
 — Lincoln and Stamford Mercury. 
 
 "The author's design in the preparation of this very beautiful work 
 
 evidently goes beyond the portraiture of an individual One of its primary 
 
 intentions is to recall to the minds and hearts of readers who have enjoyed 
 the same privileges as its author, profitable remembrances of a Methodist 
 home. That this may be accomplished, and at the same time that others 
 who do not belong to our community may have a just conception of what 
 Methodism really is, it will be found that there are here presented living 
 
 scenes and descriptions of every one of our services We rejoice that this 
 
 has been done with equal faithfulness and good taste, in a work which, more 
 than almost any other Wesleyan biography, is likely to pass beyond our 
 
 own circle The style of the pen is in keeping with that of the pencil, — 
 
 indeed, we think, superior to it, — and is that of a clear, unstudied, but never 
 negligent simplicity, perfectly befitting lictters forming a mother's biogra- 
 phy." — Watchman. 
 
 " The subject is good, and the limner's hand skilful. A filial tenderness 
 of touch adds to the effect of his delineation. All is truly practical, how- 
 ever ; and, large as is our biographical library, we can welcome an accession 
 
4 WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 
 
 wliich promises to be as useful as popular The social means of grace, as 
 
 enjoyed among us, are weU described. The notices of the progress of 
 Methodism in Lincoln and in the county are full of life : and the sketches 
 of Christian worthies — from the primitive class-leader of the city, to William 
 Dawson, Robert Newton, and John Smith — are truly graphic." — Wesley an 
 Magazine. 
 
 " The substance, plan, and general style of this biography have almost 
 
 equally delighted us There is nothing which may be fairly stigmatized 
 
 as religious cant ; genuine, simple, earnest, but sober godliness is exhibited 
 and commended in this volume, and nothing more. We sincerely welcome 
 it as the most interesting piece of Christian biography, dealing with feminine 
 and private excellence, which has appeared for many years past. The least 
 of its merits is the elegant embellishment afforded by numerous spirited 
 vignettes." — London (Quarterly Review. 
 
 "This is every way a book of beauty, surpassing everything that has yet 
 issued from the commonwealth of Wesleyan Methodism ; beautiful in senti- 
 ment, beautiful in style, beautiful in typography, and beautiful in illustra- 
 tion. Mr. Jobson has here performed a great service, not only to his own 
 community, but to the general church." — Christian Witness. 
 
 " The author of this beautiful biography was a representative of the British 
 Conference in the late General Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church. 
 He is an excellent man, and withal an artist ; as is seen not only in the 
 superb engravings, which we have faithfully reproduced in this edition of his 
 work, but in the structure of the work itself. It is a perfect gem. It ought 
 to be in every Methodist house in the world." — Journal of the Methodist 
 Episcopal Church South, U.S. of America. 
 
 In Oetavo, price 5^,, 
 
 CHAPEL AND SCHOOL ARCHITECTURE, 
 
 AS APPROPRIATE TO 
 
 PARTICULARLY TO THOSE OE THE WESLEYAN 
 
 METHODISTS. 
 
 WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE 
 
 ERECTION OF CHAPELS AND SCHOOL-HOUSES. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS PLATES AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 "We are glad to see this elegant volume, which is brought out in 
 fulfilment of a recommendation of the Model-Plan Committee, and of the 
 
 Conference There can be little doubt that the labour here expended will 
 
 be recompensed by a general improvement of our architectural taste." — 
 Wesleyan Magazine, 
 
WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 5 
 
 " There is no one wlio has done so much to diffuse among Wesleyans 
 intelligence and good taste in reference to the architecture of sacred edifices 
 
 as the Rev. !P. J. Jobson His original education and profession, his 
 
 extensive acquaintance with Wesleyan Chapels, his office for several years as 
 Secretary of the Chapel Building and Model-Plan Committees, — his native 
 tastes and acquired experience, combine to render him our highest authority 
 
 and best instructor as to "Wesleyan Chapel building As a Directory on 
 
 the subjects on which it treats, it is almost an indispensable volume for 
 every Wesleyan Minister and Trustee. In it they will find full instructions 
 for whatever is to be done in Chapel and School building, from the purchase 
 
 of their sites to their completion and opening The illustrations are of 
 
 great beauty, and exceedingly appropriate and serviceable, and are executed 
 in the best style." — Watchman. 
 
 " It sets forth good principles, and will doubtless have a good effect." — 
 — Builder. 
 
 " Mr. Jobson's work is of a practical and useful character, and none the 
 less acceptable for the earnestness of its tone." — Artizan. 
 
 " Mr. Jobson has shown how possible it is to build Chapels and Schools 
 in a style of neatness, and even of elegance, at a less cost than is often 
 incurred for erections singularly devoid of those qualities, and which, in some 
 cases, are as destitute of convenience as of taste. The work is illustrated 
 with drawings of exteriors, and ground plans, both for Chapels and Schools ; 
 and though containing much of special interest to Methodists, it contains 
 more adapted to do good service in relation to Nonconformist architecture 
 generally." — British Quarterly, 
 
 " We recommend all who are about to build to consult this valuable work." 
 — Evangelical Christendom. 
 
 " We have great pleasure and confidence in recommending so pleasing and 
 instructive a work to all Nonconformists, as a suggestive guide to the erection 
 of Chapels and Schools." — National. 
 
 " His designs for School-Houses are remarkably chaste and consistent 
 with propriety and taste, and, whether considered as representations of the 
 ground-plans or elevations, together with the furniture and fittings, they will 
 be found extremely serviceable to those parties who are engaged either in the 
 erection or enlargement of buildings for school*" — Sunday School Teachers' 
 Magazine. 
 
6 WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 
 
 In crown 8w., cambric, gilt, price 6s., 
 
 AUSTRALIA; 
 
 WITH NOTES BY THE WAY, ON EGYPT, CEYLON, BOMBAY, 
 
 AND THE HOLY LAND. 
 
 WITH A COLOURED ILLUSTRATION OF AUSTRALIAN SCENERY. 
 
 NOTICES OF FIRST EDITION. 
 
 " We have never met with sketches more faithful and more valuable to 
 any class of readers, whether it be the returned colonist, or the future emi- 
 grant." — Australian and New Zealand Gazette. 
 
 " With the eye of a painter, and much of the kindred sensibility of a poet, 
 our traveller combines the heart of a Christian and a Minister. Hence the 
 varied hues which shine on his page, lending a fresh interest to all he tells 
 of the island-continent of the south,— of its scenery, climate, produce, and 
 especially of its people." — Wesley an Magazine. 
 
 " A BOOK of varied travel, among Methodist and many other scenes, 
 written with great intelligence, and in a uniformly religious spirit." — 
 Watchman. 
 
 " The book is unpretentious, but it has more merit than some of less 
 modesty." — Evangelical Magazine. 
 
 "A VOLUME that teems with samples of power and beauty, overflow- 
 ing with important information touching all the colonies, and everything 
 that appertains to them. As relates to the body politic, and the kingdom 
 of Christ at the present moment in those wondrous regions, no publication 
 that has as yet appeared admits of comparison with the work of Dr. Jobson." 
 — British Standard. 
 
 " Dr. Jobson is a Methodist minister, but has had opportunities beyond 
 most of his brethren in the " home work." They travel only in Britain ; he 
 has travelled a good deal abroad, and visited the most distant parts of the 
 earth. He is able, therefore, to bring his knowledge of the world, and his 
 experience of men and things, to bear on a wide sphere. The result has been 
 two good books ; of which this second, chiefly relating to Australia, is, we 
 think, not less interesting or valuable than the former, which contained an 
 account of his visit, a few years ago, in company with the Rev. Dr. Hannah, 
 to the General Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church (North) in the 
 United States." — London Review. 
 
 LONDON : HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. SOLD BY JOHN MASON. 
 
V 
 
smm 
 
 fmss