MUSHROOM TOWN Oliver* Onions THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES IN MEMORY OF MRS. VIRGINIA B. SPORER MUSHROOM TOWN OLIVER ONIONS MUSHROOM TOWN BY OLIVER ONIONS Author of "Gray Youth," "In Accordance with the Evidence," "Debit Account," etc., etc. GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY NEW YORK Publishers in America for Hodder fy Stoughton - Copyright, 1914, BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY DEDICATION IN the following pages I have permitted myself to take a number of liberties geographical, historical etymological, and even geological with a country for which I have con- ceived a strong affection; I trust I have taken none with its beauty nor with its hospitality. It will be useless to search for Llanyglo on any map. It is neither in North Carnar- vonshire, in Merioneth, nor in Lleyn. Of certain features of existing places I have made a composite, which is the " MUSHROOM TOWN " of this book. The kindnesses I have received in Wales during the past six years have been innumerable; indeed, much of my work has consisted of writing down (and not always improving} things told me by one of my hosts. For this and other reasons I should like to render him such acknowledgment as a Dedication may express. " MUSHROOM TOWN " is therefore inscribed, in gratitude and affection, to ARTHUR ASHLEY RUCK Hampstead, 1914 2046748 CONTENTS PAGE T!HE INVITATION 9 PART I CHAPTER PAGE I THE YEAR DOT 17 II ITS NONAGE 31 III THE MINDER 46 IV "Dim SAESNEG" 52 V THE HAFOD UNOS 75 VI THE FOOT IN THE DOOR 86 VII THE MEMBER . 98 VIII THELEMA . ; .109 PART II I RAILHEAD 117 II THE CLERK OF THE WORKS 126 III THE CURTAIN RAISER 142 IV YNYS 168 PART III I THE HOLIDAY CAMP 179 II THE GIANT'S STRIDE 205 III THE BLANK CHEQUE 218 IV PAWB . . 233 CONTENTS PART IV CHAPTEB PAGE I THE BLIND EYE 244 II JUNE 263 III DELYN 275 IV AN ORDINARY YOUNG MAN 297 V THE DWELLING OF A NIGHT 310 VI THE GLYN 323 PART V I THE WHEEL 335 II ADIEU . . 347 THE INVITATION { 4 T TT TE'LL take the little cable-tram, if you like, \ \ but it's not far to walk twenty minutes or so the Trwyn's seven hundred feet high. You'll see the whole of the town from the top. The sun will have made the grass a little slippery, but there are paths everywhere ; the sheep began them, and then the visitors wore them bare. And we shall get the breeze. . . . " There you are : Llanyglo. You see it from up here almost as the gulls and razorbills see it. The bay's a fine curve, isn't it ? rather like a strongly blown kite- string; and the Promenade's nearly two miles long. But as you see, the town doesn't go very far back. From the Imperial there to the railway station and the gasometers at the back isn't much more than half a mile ; the town seems to press down to the front just as the horses draw the bathing-vans down to the tide. Shall we sit down? Here's a boulder. It's chipped all over with initials, of course; so are the benches, and even the turf ; but you'd wonder that there was a bit of wood or stone or turf left at all if you saw the crowds that come here when the Wakes are on. It's odd that you should never see anybody actually cutting them. Some of them must have taken an hour or two with a hammer and chisel, but I've been up here count- less times and never seen anybody at it yet. " Yes, that's Llanyglo ; but look at the mountains first, 9 10 MUSHROOM TOWN This isn't the best time of the day for seeing them ; the morning or the evening's the best time; the sun isn't far enough round yet. But sometimes, when the light's just right, they start out into folds and wrinkles almost as quickly as you could snap your fingers it's quite dramatic. Foels and Moels and Pens and Mynedds, look half the North Cambrian Range. You couldn't have a better centre for motor-cycle and char-a-banc tours than Llanyglo. . . . Then on the other side's the sea. That's only a tinny sort of glitter just now, but you should see the moon rise over it. People come out from the concerts on the pier-head just, to have a look. . . . " The Pier looks tiny from up here ? Yes, but it's three furlongs long for all that, and those two tart-tin- looking things at the end hold nearly a thousand people apiece. But, as you say, it is rather like one of those children's toy railways they sell on the stalls in Gardd Street for sixpence-halfpenny. And that always strikes me as rather a curious thing about Llanyglo. It's a big place now nine thousand winter popula- tion; but somehow it has a smaller look than it had when it was just a score of cottages, all put together not much bigger than the Kursaal Gardens there. I don't know why the cottages should have seemed more in scale with the mountains than all this, but they did. I suppose it was because they didn't set up for any- thing, like the Kursaal and the Majestic and the Im- perial. . . . But it doesn't do to tell the Llanyglo folk that. They look at it in quite another way. To them the sea and the mountains are so many adjuncts, some- thing they can turn into money by dipping people at sixpence a time and motoring them round at four-and- sixpence the tour. . . , And sometimes you can't help THE INVITATION 11 thinking that it wouldn't take very much (a wind a bit stronger than usual or an extra heave of the sea, say) and all these hundreds of thousands of pounds' worth of stone and iron and paint and gilding would just disappear be sponged out like the castles and hoof -marks on the sands when the tide comes in or like a made-up face when you wipe the carmine and pencilling from it. ... Eh ? No, I'm not saying they've spoiled the place nor yet that they haven't. You mustn't come here if you want a couple of miles of beach to yourself. It all depends how you look at it. If Llanyglo's cheap jack in one way, perhaps it isn't in another. It's merely that I remember it as it used to be. ... " Would it surprise you to learn that the whole place is only about thirty years old? That's all. It grew like a mushroom ; there are people who were born here who don't know their way about their own town. . . . Mostly Welsh? Oh dear no, not by any means. I should say about half-and-half. I suppose you're thinking of the Welsh names of the streets? They don't mean very much. There's Gardd Street, for in- stance ; l gardd ' is only the Welsh for l garden,' and Edward Garden, John Willie Garden's father, built the greater part of it (for that matter, he built the greater part of Llanyglo). And if anybody called Wood (say) had put up a house here, he'd probably have called it ' Ty Coed.' And some of it, of course, is genuine Welsh. The Forth Neigr Koad does go to Forth Neigr, and Sarn, over there, has always been Sam. But people think they're getting better value for their money if they come away for a fortnight and see foreign names everywhere; they've a travelled sort of feeling; so they give the streets these names, and 12 MUSHROOM TOWN print all the placards in two columns, with ' Rhybudd ' on one side and l Notice ' on the other. "And that's given rise to one rather amusing little mistake. As you know, this headland that we're on is called the Trwyn, and l trwyn ' simply means a nose or a promontory. But over past the Lighthouse there, there are the remains of an old Dinas, a British camp, and half these Lancashire trippers think the head- land's called after that 't'ruin'