3> 7/ /J' //i- A VOYAGE TO THE DEMERARY, CONTAINING A STA'nSTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE SETTLEMENTS THERE, AND OF THOSE ON THE ESSEQUEBO, THE BERBICE. AND OTHER CONTIGUOUS RIVERS OF GUYANA. BY HENRY BOLINGBROKE, ESQ. OF NORWICH, DEPUTY VENDUE MASTER AT SURINAM. LO^'DON, Printed for RICHARD PHILLIPS, No. 6, Bridge-Street. STEVENSON AKD MATCHETT, PRINTERS, NORWICH. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE V^L'^ / WILLIAM WINDHAM. ^^'^I OF FELBRIGG IN NORFOLK, HIS MAJESTY'S SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIAL DEPARTMENT, AS A TJRIJBUTE^ NO LESS OF PERSONAL GRATITUDE, THAN OF UNIFORM ADMIRATION FOR HIS PUBLIC CONDUCT, WHICH, IN THE DETAILS OF ADMINISTRATIVE APPOINTMENT, IN THE LIBERAL RELAXATION OF MONOPOLOUS RESTRICTIONS, AND IN RESISTING THE ABOLITION OF A LIBERTY, ESSENTIAL AT NEW SETTLEMENTS, OF IMPORTING ADDITIONAL LABOURERS, HAS BEEN ALIKE CONDUCIVE TO THE PROSPERITY OF THE COLONIES, THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY HIS OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT, HEJVRY EOJLIJVGBROKE. NORWICH, 31 JANUARY, 1807. 865712 SUMMARY OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. ORIGIN of this work, page 1 — Emigration meritorious, 2 — Sea-sickness, how moderated, 3 — Cork adapted to be the store-house of West-Indian produce for Europe, 5 — Madeira grape cultivable in the British West-Indies, 6 — Coast of Guyana descried, 8 — Mouth of the Courantine, 9 — Mouth of the Berbicc, 1 1 — Mouth of the Demerary, 12 — Precautions requisite for a passenger to the West-Indies, 14 — Ruinous effect of the climate on British-built shipping, 16 — Navigation act criticised, 11. CHAPTER II. Landing at Stabroek, 24 — First impression of the town, 25 — Of the house- hold manners, 21 — Water-carriage, 28 — River Demerary, 29 — Allotments on its banks, 30— Police of the bridges, canals, and punts, 31— Flatness of the land, 32 — Diamond-point, 32 — Reynestein, 33— Hospitality and hammock- sleeping, 34 — Fort-island, 35 — Sand-hills and springs, 36— Dutch planters, 37 — ^Treatment of negroes, 38 — Rapids of the Demerary, 39. CHAPTER III. Description of Stabroek, its wharfs, or stellings, 40 — Want of inns, 41^ State of tlie drama, 42 — General use of concubines, 43 — Superior beauty of the mestees, 44 — Apartments scrubbed with lemons, 46 — General habit of smoak- ing segars, 47 — Pepper-pot and otlier soups used at breakfast, 48 — Humility of SUMMARY OF CONTENTS. Dutch servants and negroes, 48 — Splendor of Dutch households, 49 — Variety of inhabitants, 50— Hucksters, 51 — Butchers, 52 — Fishers, 53 — Public wor- ship alternately Dutch and English, 54 — Lazaretto, 55 — Shingles, 55 — House- rent, 56 — Price of labor, 37 — Cost of building, 57 — Law-charges, 58 — Public negroes, or galley-slaves, 59 — Hospital at Labourgade, 60 — Benevolent rate, or kirk en arm geld, 61 — Superfluity of glass bottles, 63— Barbadoes packet- boat, 63 — Macaronic advertisements in the Essequebo gazette, 64 — Public buildings, 65 — Fees of office, 66 — Necessity of attaching an English recorder to the Dutch fiscal, as assessor, 66 — Vast influence of the fiscal, 67 — Law against the private importation of colonists, 67 — Ridiculous anecdote, 68— Exploiteur, 68 — Custom-house, 69 — Vendue-master, 70 — Paper money, 70 — Par of ex- change, 71 — State of public defence, 72— Funerals, 73. CHAPTER IV. Keizcrs, a representative authority, how elected, 75 — Courts of justice, 76 — Ecclesiastic courts, 77 — Orphan Chamber, 78 — Salaries of office, 79 — Custom- house returns, 80 — Kingston,, or Eveleary, described, 81— Labourgade, 82 — Cumingsburg, 83 — Artificers, 84 — Bridge-town and New-town, 85— Werken- rust, 86 — Morning twilight longer than evening twilight, 87 — Climate, 88— Coup'dc-soleil, 89 — Mahaica, 90— Seasoning, 91.— Yaws, 92 — ^Jiggers, 93— Ring-worm, 94. CHAPTER V. Reynestcin, 95 — Police of a plantation, 96 — Honesty of the negroes, 96 — Farming-stock, 97— Oxen and mules, 98 — Water-carriage of the sugar-canes, 99 — Method of manufacture, 100 — Distillation of Rum, 101 — Negro right of settlement, 1 02— Creole children, 103 — Preference given to white masters, 104 ^Acquaintance of Mungo Park, 105 — Punishment by torture, 106 — Noble condi.ct of Colonel Heslop, 107 — Gentler modes of treatment, 108— Reform of criminal legislation recommended, 109— Story of Quamin, 110 — Negro va- SUMMARY OF CONTENTS. nity, 111 — Emancipation rarely coveted, 112 — Surgeons paid by the head, 113 — Rashness of Europeans in legislating for the West-Indies, 1 15 — Anecdote of an African prince, 116 — Negro-slavery in Africa, 117 — Redemption of slaves, 118 — Slave-carrying-trade bill applauded, 119 — White -slave-trade, 120— Use of removal, 121 — Cause of the selling value of slaves, 122 — Claim of mainte- nance, 1 23— Use of sales by auction, 1 24 — Moment when vassalage begins, 125 — Cause of vassalage, 126 — Increase of negro population, 127 — Necessity of negro labourers, 128 — Relative mortality, 129 — Abolition of the trade in free negroes alone justifiable, 1 30. CHAPTER VI, Borasierri, 131 — Leguan, 132 — Fort-island, 133 — Supinama, 134 — First settlement of Essequebo, in 1698, 135 — Amicable tribunal, 136 — ^Taret, or water-worm, 137 — Usefulness of the Caribbees, 138 — Hammock, derivation of, 139 — Distilleries most expedient in new countries, 140 — Lowlands first culti- vated by the English, 142 — Stabroek founded in 1774, 143. CHAPTER VII. Caribbees, 145 — Language, 146 — Manners, 147— Trade, 148— Cannibalism, 149 — Worrows, 151 — Accawaws, 152 — Arrowauks, 153 — Nicholas Hortsman, 154 — Religion of the Indians, 155 — Feast of the dead, 156 — Polygamy, 159 — Fish caught by infusing hiarra, 160 — Parturition, 161. CHAPTER VIII. Berbice, 163 — History of the colony, 164 — Van Hoom company, 165 — Di- rectory of seven, 166 — Isle of Crabs, 167 — New Amsterdam, 168 — Tavern- bill, 170 — River Canje, 172— CofFee-plantation, 174— Negro-population, 176— Decay of the West-Indian islands, 177— Barbadoes founded the prosperity of Demerary, 178. b 2 SUMMARY OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. Limits of Berbice, 179 — Governor not an Englishman, 180 — Acre-gckit, IS'2 — Tract between the Devil's creek and the Courantine, 183 — Mutiny of Dutch troops, 185 — Rebels driven beyond the Canjc, 188 — Arrival of Indian auxiliaries, 189 — Story of Weekee, 190 — Surrender of the mutineers, 193. CHAPTER X. Insurrection of slaves in 1763, 193 — Fort Nassau blown up, 194 — Cruel punishment of the insurgents, 195 — Aversion of the red men against the black, 195 — Gratitude of an Indian, 196 — Abary, 196 — Mahaica, 197 — Nocturnal pastime, 198 — Mahaicony, 199 — Earthquake, theory of, 200 — Lime brought from Eurqpe, 201 — Arabische coast, 202 — Ruins at the fort of Harlipyak, 202 — Pomaroon, 203 — Plaintain, 204 — Maize, 204 — Coiton, 205 — Negroes let their labor on Sundays, 206 — Kapoya creek, 207 — Bamboo wanted, 207 — Ex- pioiteurs not numerous enough, 208. CHAPTER XI. 'Excessive rage for making sugar-eslates, 209 — Seasoned negroes, 210 — Short apprenticeships sufficient among negroes, 211 — Fears of imported lads, 212 — Story of Jem, 213 — Task-gangs, 215 — Timber-trade, 216 — History and descrip- tion of a Dutch settler, 218 — Miss Quasheba Vos, 219^ — General tendency of remote settlers, 222 — Guyana adapted for the natives of lower Germany, 223 — Success of Mr. Vos, 223 — Emigration recommended to young British far- mers, 224. -/ '^ > CHAPTER XII. Animals, 225 — Deer, called wirrebocerra and bajecr, 226 — Hogs, called picaree and warree, 227 — Pucarara, 228 — Armadillo, 229— Quato, 230 — Sac- eawinkee, 231— Ai, 232— Laubba, 233— Alligator, 233— Manati, 234— SUMMARY OF CONTENTS. Guana, 235— Pipa, 236— Lowlow, 237 — Querimaii, 238 — Frog-fish, 239 — Sun-bird, 240 — Mackaw, 241 — Acushe, 242 — Canicani, 243 — Powese, 244 — Marrodee, 245— Kishee-kisliee, 246 — Humming-bird, 247- Carochc, 248 — Fire-fly, 249— Groe-groe, 250 — Chigo, 251. CHAPTER XIII. Cabbage-tree, 252 — Silk-cotton-tree, 253 — Pipeira, 254 — Iron-wood, 255— Mangrove, 256— Bourra courra,- 257 — Hiarra, 258 — Cocoa-tree, 259 — Ricinus, 260 — Guava, 261— Curetta, 263 — Ginger, 64 — Cassava, 265 — Nibbees, 266 — Troolies, 267. CHAPTER XIV. Capture of Demerary, 299 — Public papers of Abercromby, 270 — Of Whyte, 272— Of Parr, 274- Of Beaujon, 275— Of Meertens, 276— Origin of the en- terprise, 277 — Consequent rise of property, 278 — Confiscation of a regiment of slaves, 279 — Burgher- watch, 281 — Villa of Anthony Meertens, called Rome, 283 — Accommodating spirit of the fiscal, 284 — Arbitrary character of Laraai- son, 285 — Inconvenient ascendancy of the French party after the peace of Amiens, 286— Dutch barracks furnished by an English merchant, 290 — Un- wholesomeness of new rum, 292 — Pestilence among the Dutch soldiery, 294 — Smuggling, 296. CHAPTER XV. The English enterprizes permanently beneficial, 300 — Carrabanna district, 301 — Mahaicony, 302 — Lot of land exchanged for a turkey, 303 — Megass, 304 — Bush negroes, 306 — Anecdotes of a negro named Gentleman, 307 — Bar- barity of warfare, 309 — Lands on the Pomaroon granted to the rifle-corps, 310 — Victor Hugues' proclamation to encourage a revolt of slaves, 312 — Cayenne, 313 — History of its settlement, 315 — Its productions, 317 — Caravan to the interior, 318 — Desert state of the coast, 319 — Deficient ambition of for- SUMMARY OF CONTENTS. nier ministers, 321 — Botanic garden of Cayenne a most useful establishment, 321 — French West-Indians not hostile to the English, 322 — Emancipation of the negroes unpopular in Dutch America, 323— Surrender by connivance, 324 —Benefits of British conquest, 326 — Mischievous versatility of government in giving up these conquests at the peace of Amiens, 321 — Large capital thereby sunk, 327. CHAPTER XVI. Mode of advance to planters, 330 — Re-establishment of the mercantile con- nection with Holland, 331 — Subsequent discredit, 332 — Damages on returned Bills, 334 — Patience of the blacks during famine, 336 — Inhumanity punished, 337 — Paramaribo, 338 — Religious liberties of the Dutch, 340 — Moravians, 341 — Original settlers, 343 — Kraals of maroon negroes, 344 — Their successive chiefs, 344 — Colonial paper-money, 345 — Coast on fire, 345 — Cottica rebel- lion, 346. CHAPTER XVII. Ralegh's discovery of Guyana, 347— Of Cain, or Trinidad, 349— River Oia, orOyapoco, 353 — River Barema, {q. Berbice?) 354 — River Pawroma, or Po- maroon, 354 — River Essequebo, 354— River Red-cross, (q. Demerary ?) 356— Orinoko, 357— Amana, 358— Arraroopana, 361 — Caroli, 363. CHAPTER XVIII. Guyana in general, 366— Mountains of Mei, 367— Lake of Parima, 367— Climate, 368— Caribbee islands overvalued, 369— Religion of the people of Guyana, 371— Tolerance praised, 372— Importance of occupying Cayenne, 373 — CiviUzation proportioned to the density of populousness, 374— Fairs and public sports for the Indians ought to be instituted, 375 — Utility of extensive empire, 376— Negotiation with Portugal su3:gested, 377— Navigation of the Ma- ranyo, 373— Importance of unrestricted commerce, 379— General Miranda SUMMARY OF CONTENTS. could have added to British Guyana the western bank of the Orinoko, 380— Bocas of the Orinoko a vomitory of privateers, 381 — British conquest better than independence, 382 — Conspiracy of the Protestants in Grenada, 383 — Religious character of the Spaniards, 383— Value of the banks of the Orinoko, 384— Civil character of the Spaniards, 385— Importance of a splendid governor- ship, 387 — Recorders desirable in the municipal constitutions, 389 — Custom- house regulations in England inconvenient and oppressive, 392 — Scientific survey recommended, 394— Chinese labourers desirable, 395. APPENDIX. Ships cleared from E^sequebo and Demerary from 1145 to 1785, 397— Sale of a slave-cargo, 398 — Slave-ships imported from 1745 to 1785, 398 — Specimen of Negro-English, 400. POSTSCRIPT. Mr. HENRY BOLINGBROKE was occupied, during tlie summer of 1 806, m prepaying this book for the press, and gave his manuscript to the printers before the close of that year. In con- sequence of his accepting the office of Deputy Vendue Master of Su- ^ rinam, he quitted Norwich in February 1807, at which period, only about twenty-four sheets had been printed off. The rest of the work has not merely been delayed, but has somewhat suffered from his absence; as it was n$t possible for those, who undertook to superin- tend the remainder of the impression, to supply with the exactness of local knowlege, every little chastn of narrative or expressioji. The followiiig are the more important ERRORS OF THE PRESS. Page 5 line 9 after passport read and a lantern. 18 4 for well read ill. 69 8 after pay read on their inward and outward bound cargo, 2 J per cent. 71 20 for the same read some. 100 7 for molasses read melasses. 363 20 after a drought read being mentioned except the remarkable one of 1 803-4. STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF TUB SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &c. CHAPTER r. PREFACE EMIGRATION MERITORIOUS EMBARKATION AT LIVERPOOL COVE OF CORK PASS MADEIRA AND TENE- EIFFE PROPOSAL TO CULTIVATE THE MADEIRA GRAPE AT TRINIDAD FIRST VIEW OF THE COAST OF SOUTH AMERICA OFF THE MOUTH OF THE COURANTINE ANCHORAGE IN THE RIVER DEMERARY PROVISIONS TO BE MADE FOR A WEST INDIA VOYAGE — CENSURE OF THE NAVIGATION ACT. XhIS Sketch of the Settlements on the Berblce, the Deme- rary, the Esscquebo, and tlie Pomaroon, is in great part copied from successive letters written by the author to his family, in the course of a seven years residence at Stabroek, without any view to publication. He therefore hopes the reader will be content with a plain statement of what he has seen and thought. B 2 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE The original epistolary form has been dropped, and so much of arrangement aimed at, as was necessary to prevent repeti- tion ; but the connection of the topics is not very methodical, and facts oftener occur in the order in which they were ac- quired, than in which they might best have been grouped. Emolument is not the inducement for attempting this statis- tical account: but a wish of displaying the importance of the settlements now possessed by the British along the northern coast of South America. They are undervalued; and were abandoned at the peace of Amiens with a levity, which low- ered the character of our statesmen for information. If this endeavour to make the district more known should succeed, the author's end is reached. It will be a sufficient gratifica- tion for him to have had it in his power to disclose a new field, where British industry and perseverance are so likely to reap an early reward, and so able to found an immeasurable empire. Emigration ought to be classed among the merits of a citizen. The little void an absentee leaves is presently filled. By withdrawing from the competition for employment at home, he favours an increase in the recompense of industry. "Whether he fails, and dies abroad ; or thrives, and returns with a fortune ; he has helped to keep in motion the great wheel of commercial circulation. He, who quits his coimtry. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. S does not forsake it; he only chooses a difi'erent post of activity in its behalf. He assists in extending to a distance the imi- tation of its manners, the consumption of its handiwork, the advantage of its intercourse, the popularity of its literature and law. Not that I pretend to have been governed by any such sub- hme moral motives, when I determined to seek my fortune on a transatlantic shore. Accident determined nly destiny. The partner of a house in Stabroek, who was at London in 1798, wished to engage an articled clerk on terms which my friends- thought liberal. Fancy and ambition painted, at the termina- tion of a West-Indian voyage, new forms of pleasure and of gain ; and I embarked with delight on board the Comet, Captain Barrow, at Liverpool, on the 25th December, 1798. For many days after we left ihe Mersey I was much troubled by sea-sickness. This is a phenomenon which no medical man I ever met with, could satisfactorily explain, and the only ad- vantage I have derived from conversation on the subject, was to collect a few facts. Sea-sickness is most likely to occur, if you stand still upon the deck and watch the motion of the sea. If the eyes be closed, so that the dancing of surrounding objects cannot be perceived, you are less liable to be sick. If you lie in the horizontal posture, the rocking of the ship is almost im- perceptible; hence the most effectual way of avoiding sea-sick- B 2 4- STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ness, is to lie down on your bed. By these means I have often passed in a few minutes from the most dreadful nausea to a state of perfect ease, and could eat, talk, and read, as well as if I were on shore. This, however, is only an escape from sickness, for as soon as I came upon deck again, I found I was as much affected by the motion of the ship, as at first. The only way to conquer it, is to brave it. Strong exercise is good, such as walking the deck. You arc then not so sensi- ble to the motion of the ship. The eyes and the feet are no longer watchful to the slightest movement of objects. Stimu- lent mental occupation is good, such as mirthful conversation, which fills the mind with amusing ideas, and excludes those strange sensations which seem to be the chief cause of the malady. Various means of inferior importance may be mentioned to diminish the effect of the motion of the vessel. To go on board after a light simple meal ; to live temperately, and to eat a litde food at short intervals, rather than more at longer. Strong drinks taken into the stomach are good, if they do not produce intoxication. A single glass of brandy is often useful, but enough to produce drunkenness would obvi- ously be hurtful. Pure water should never be used, but ought to be mixed with a little wine or lemon juice. When the stomach is sufficiently strong, a glass of spirituous bitters will increase the appetite and relieve the remaining sickness. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 5 We touched at Cork, and lay in the Cove to await convoy : there we took on board live stock and sea stores. This port promises to become important. If it were made a free port ; if goods cotild be landed within a certain ring of wall, or other inclosure, and warehoused without paying any duty, or giving any bond to the custom-house ; the produce always deposited there for the various inlets of the European market would be very considerable. What West-Indian cargoes are carried for- wards to Liverpool can no longer be destined to the Mediter- ranean, to France, to London, without having incurred a needless expence. We left Cork on the 4th January, 1799, having several horses on board, which were very troublesome. The laws that prohibit carrying out our best breeds of cattle render necessary a costly and inconvenient exportation of single animals, which might be bred in our continental colonies at less cost. The object of Great Britain ought not to be the furnishing of her colonies with what can more cheaply be produced there ; but the raising of a large population, whose demand would busy her stationary manufactories. There is almost always a north wind off the coast of Portu- gal : I do not know why : but the sailors rely on it with con- fidence, and are seldom disappointed. We fell in with it, and were carried by it into the latitude of Madeira. By 6 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE the bye, why should the sort of grapes which thrive in this island not be capable of culture in some of the British islands; on the mountains of Trinidad, for instance? Our peo- ple could learn, as well as the Portuguese, to ferment the must in cellars, and to throw in quick lime, when any ten- dency to acetous fermentation is perceived. The government ought to lower the duty on wines imported from the Cape and from Trinidad, so as to confer the monopoly of the Bri- tish market on the wine-makers, who might arise in our own colonies. The olive could in like manner probably be cultivated in the hilly parts of Jamaica, and elsewhere. — Our laws have not enough reciprocity : the colonies must buy no where but in Great Britain ; while Great Britain gives no corresponding preference to her colonies. Now that the Gallipoli oils grow in French territory, there is some chance, perhaps, that an attempt may be made to supply our woollen manufactories from provinces of our own. Recruiting in the Mediterranean for the garrisons in the West-Indies has been suggested ; it might indirectly improve their agriculture, by introducing some peasants accustomed to grow oil, wine, rice and silk. On the 27th January we saw the snow on the Peak of Tcncriffe, the only part of Africa I am ever likely to behold. Three of our liorses died in this neighbourhood. On the 7th February we were surrounded by flying-fish. Several of SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 7 them lit on deck. I ate one for my supper. They are not unlike herrings; and fly, it seems, in order to cool themselves by evaporation; for they do not rise in the night, and always replunge into the water as soon as their wings are dry. The heat was become excessive: the nautilus sailing with his fan; and the cerulean brilliance of the dorado moved by golden fins, were new objects to me. On the 8th our main-top-gallant mast caught fire from the friction of a rope newly tarred. This accident retarded us; we fell astern of tlie whole convoy, but recovered our dis- tance a day or two after, though we were all equally assisted by the trade-wind. Some days before we made land the co- lour of the sea changed from a deep sky blue to an olive tinge, as if there was mud below ; but the water when exa- mined in a glass shewed no sign of turbidness. After a passage of seven weeks it may naturally be supposed we were very happy when one of the seamen from the fore- top-gallant mast head gave us the joyful warning of " Land, ahead," which was on the 2-1-th of February. The ship Henry, with which we were then in company, having parted convoy in the latitude of Barbadoes, made us a signal " for land discovered on the weather bow." Captain Barrow then went aloft with a glass, and saw plainly a long range of coast running off east to west, distant about five leagues — the land 8 fTATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE appeared very low, and completely covered with trees even down to the water's edge. The day was clear and serene, to the utmost transparency of a tropical atmosphere. On heav- ing the lead we were much alarmed, by being in only quarter less five water, and immediately made a signal to speak our consort. She accordingly came up alongside, and under- standing our apprehension. Captain Hayton assured us there was no danger ; that it was low water and neap tides — that there was a necessity for our standing in for the land close hauled, to discover what part of the coast we were on, and to prevent the flood tide, which was then making, from carrying us too far to leeward. As he was acquainted with the coast, we agreed to follow him and obey his signals. The Comet being the best sailer of the two, we shortened sail, and took a reef in the top-sails to keep farther astern of the Henry. About noon we were so close in as to discover a river to windward of us — we were then in three fathom water. The bottom was soft mud, nothing else had adhered to the tallow put into the bottom of the sound- ing lead. While Captain Barrow was in this state of un- pleasant suspense, not knowing where he was or what to do, the Henry made a signal for preparing to anchor. We accordingly coach-wheeled three or four coils of the cable on deck, and in the mean time ran alongside to enquire where we were. Captain Hayton told us the river to windward was SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 9 tlie Courantine, situate between the Berblce and the Surinam, and that we were about a hundred miles to the eastward of Demerary river, but that he thought It adviseable to come to during the night, and recommended a sharp look-out to be kept, as the coast was much infested with privateers from the. Orinoko. We altered our course two points to the westward, which accordingly brought us more in a parallel with the coast, which I had now an opportunity of particularly observing : it was low and perfectly flat, and from its appearance quite wild and uncultivated. Large forests of trees extend along the coast even to the beach,, which appeared to consist of mud, with but few intervals of sand. This prospect of a country, in which I was to become a resident for five years, certainly was not the most flattering, but it being the end of my jour- ney, and the first land I had seen for several weeks^ I beheld it with glad eyes, and really thought it a most delightful place. I looked on the forests of trees as so many pervious groves and pleasant plantations, and compared the situation of the sea-shore, in my mind's eye, to sonie of our watering places in England — I hugged myself with the idea of traversing those rural retreats of wood, and hearing the dashing of the waves against the lofty mangroves in my supposed walks of retirement. c lb STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Highly gratified by this verdant scenery, and the refreshing breeze having completely recovered me from the remaining qualms of sea-sickness, I retired once more to my state-room, but not to sleep. The watch being set, the careful mariner was pacing the deck, and universal silence reigned, inter- rupted at intervals with the hollow yet pleasing sound of " All's well," and the chiming of the half-hour bells. I counted eight when the starboard watch was called, and again visited the deck. The flood tide had made, which hav- ing raised the anchor we had drifted a little, and tlie seamen were employed in veering out more cable — a total stillness seemed to pervade the sky — the breeze which had before been so brisk had died away, and left a perfect calm — the swell and roughness of the sea had subsided — nothing was heard but a rippling against the vessel's side, and the voices of tlie sea- men singing " Yo heave yo," — the moon was just descending below the horizon — the air was m'dd, and I found that repose on a hen-coop on deck which my bed denied me. I was aroused in the morning between five and six hy a bustle and confusion on deck: the day was already breaking from the east, and the splendour of the rising sun was surpass- ingly grand. The seamen were weighing the anchor in com- pliance witli a signal from the Henry. This was a more dif- ficult task tlian we were aware of, and after having attempted the execution of it for two houis, we were absolutely obliged SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 1 I to relinquish it for the present : as, however, we had neigli- bour's fare, we could not complain — the Henry was in the same situation. Captain Hayton hailed and told us that we should not be able to purchase our anchor while the ebb tide was running, as it had taken such hold of the mud, but advised our hauling the cable short at low water; and that when the flood tide made, the anchor would weigh itself. We had no other resource, and it was not until ten o'clock, that we were under weigh, with a light breeze from the north east, which, however, soon brought us off the mouth of Berbice river. Here the scene began to vary : the stream appeared to be about two miles broad, and nearly in the middle of the channel is an island, which from a chart we had on board, I learnt was called Crab Island. It abounds with land-crabs. With a glass we discovered ships lying at anchor; and the small craft sailing about in shore and coastways were clearly perceptible to the naked eye from the deck. The coast to the eastward of the river was ae wild as that we had seen the day before off the Courantine — that to tlic westward appeared to be cultivated, and we had again the pleasure of beholding habitations on firm ground, interrupted at intervals with clumps of trees, which had been allowed to remain at the searside on some of the estates, and made a pleasing variety. Tbe phntations regularly ranged on the coast, which being a Jlat strand, shewed them to advantage as on a map, the foliage c2 1^ STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE quite green, clusters of little cottages, some detached buildings, the better sort of houses, of two, tliree, and four stories high, painted white, and the red boarded roofs, made many an in- teresting groupe, and gave to every plantation the air of a se- parate village. The passing and repassing of schooners and other colony-boats, considerably enlivened the landscape. This character of country continued all the way to the De- merary. "We went over the bar safely, but night coming on, we were obliged to anchor about two miles from the river's mouth, and did not get in till the next morning, when a pilot came off and took charge of the vessel, which he brought to anchor under the gmis of Fort William Frederic. Now that the breeze blew over land we were delighted with its orange-like fragrance. The scenery is much more diversified about this river's moutli, than on the other parts of the coast. A number of wind-mills appeared at work both on the east and west side of the Demerary. Several handsome and spacious mansions, with look-outs on the beach, the principal ones of which, 1 afterwards understood, belong to the Bel-Air estate and the* Chateau-Margot. The mouth of the Demerary lies in 6, 50 north latitude, and 58 west longitude from London. The province which it waters, bears the same name, but might more conveniently bp called Demeraria. Its extent of sea-coast is nearly one hundred mil^s, running west, and by north and west; it is SETTLEMENTS ON THE DETVrERARY^ 5cC. 15 bounded on the east by Berbice, and to the Westward by Esse- quebo. The river at its' entrance is nearly a mile and a half broad, and has a bar four milies without of mud, over which no vessel drawing more than nine feet, can pass until half ftood. At high water and spring tides, there are eighteen feet on this bar ; but great care must be taken by vessels going in, to keep well up to the east shore. AVhen the mariner is close enough to perceive th€ shipping, fort, &c. he should keep bearing E. S. E. until he gets within a mile and a- half of it,- then keep the river a little more open, which brings him into a- channel where there are three or four fathoms of water, by which means he clears the weather-bank of sand, which runs out from the point; just round Which is a battery called Fort AVilliam Frederic, mounting eighteen heavy pieces of cannon. Half a mile east from it, is a block-house, which has a com- manding view of the sea, and a communication by signal with Berbice, wliich gives immediate notice of any \'iessels being off the coast. Captain Barrow went on shore to report the vessel to the commandant, when he got a passport for going up the river. We were then visited by the surgeon of health and the har- bour-master, who left their respective instructions : we were not troubled by any custom-house officer. A clerk of the merchant, to whom I was to be attached, came on board in> the 14- STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE afternoon with Captain Barrow, in a handsome tent-boat, rowed by six negroes, and the ship's yawl followed with a load of grass for the horses, which was no doubt very accept- able to them. Let him who is about to set sail for the West Indies, be tho- roughly aware that his voyage may endure three months, that he is likely to incur every variety of climate, that the fresh water on board is too precious to be squandered on the wash- ing of linen, and that stores, which a captain thinks luxurious, pass with the passenger for hard fare. Let him therefore be provided with half a dozen checked shirts, and as many black silk cravats, both which may be worn long without looking dirty. If the north-east wind blows in the channel, he will be glad of cloth pantaloons and a warm jacket, thick boots and a stout great coat; and with all this wrapping, when he sits still in the long boat, his teeth will chatter and his thighs shiver. On the contrary, when he approaches the tropics, he will want nankeen trowsers, fine cotton shirts, silk stockings, cloaths light, airy, large, a chip hat, and loose yellow slip- pers. In the shade of the sail he will complain of the heat of the wind, and were it not for the sharks below, would ask to be towed through the water at a rope's end. The passenger who aspires to be comfortable at the latter part of the voyage, does well to take out two or three dozen fine shirts of cotton twist, as it absorbs the perspiration better than linen, as many SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 15 muslin cravats, plenty of pocket-handkerchieves, six or eight pair of gingham trowsers, three or four dimity, or jean, or thinner waistcoats with sleeves, and two dozen pair of those cotton stockings called gauze stockings, which are made for the foreign market to be worn under the silk. It is good eco- nomy to take out these things in profusion ; they will be use- ful on shore, where they cost far more than in England. Few English dress cloaths are wanted ; one coat is sufficient ; an umbrella and a travelling cloak may be welcome. To fit up a bed, a small mattrass, blanket, and cotton sheets, must be procured at the slop-sellers. Napkins, a square or two of soap, a few needles and some thread and tape will also be found very useful articles. Every traveller should learn to sew, as there is no opportunity on the road or on ship-board, of sending to a tailor or a female, to fasten on a button or stop a seam, and the old adage of " A stitch in time saves nine," is fre- quently found very applicable ; the worst of cloaths are always good enough to wear on ship-board. A passenger should pro- vide himself with a few dozen bottles of wine and porter, and half a dozen of spirits ; but the less he drinks of these the bet- ter for his health ; also four or five dozen fowls, a few ducks, two or three hams, and as many smoaked tongues, a few bottles of pickled cabbage or gherkins, a couple of pounds of tea, and a loaf of sugar. He will have ship's allowance of salt beef, pork, biscuit, and flour. Two or three young pigs and a 15 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE lamb make a welcome change of diet, and can be easily enough conveyed out ; the captain, if he had no other in- ducement than the expectancy of a share, would put them into one of his boats on deck, and take good care of them. Provisions must be laid in for the live stock, such as barley, bran, &c. A West-Indiaman has generally only one large cabin, in which, the passengers, captain, and mate dine (un- less the former engage the cabin to themselves, in which case it is held sacred), and three or four state-rooms, sufficiently large for placing a crib on one side and a trunk on the other. jcj Steerage passengers have their biVth in the steerage, and mess with the crew. In the hot latitudes, the British shipping suffers considerable injury from the heat of the sun. The boards of the deck must be continually wetted to prevent their splitting quite asunder. The tar of the caulking liquefies, and the seams open formi- dably. Unless the vessels are copper-bottomed, the adherence of barnacles and other very little shell-fish, and of long sea- grass, is so considerable as to retard the sailing; and the water- worm perforates the timber in so many places, as often to oc- casion a fatal leaklness. Our colony-craft is always bottomed with sieurbally, a very hard wood, but not absolutely worm- proof. Still these hard woods make far fitter vessels for the tropical seas than the European timber. And if the teak-tree SETTLEMENTS OKT THE DEMERARY, &C. 17 was cultivated in our districts, as in the East Indies, we should no doubt be still better off. The perverseness of the English navigation-laws provides for the West-Indian trade a most perishable sort of shipping; when, by suffering ships to be built on the coast of South America, a much cheaper and more durable commodity could be had. If British-built ships had no peculiar privileges, little colonies of ship-carpenters would go and station themselves in all tlie woody parts of South America, which are within reach of water- carriage ; would there build, at a venture, vessels in- numerable on the spot, and bring them for sale to the chief sea-ports. "With the refuse timber they would construct their own huts, and would found a number of villages, the seats of future commerce and consumption. The lumber and shingle now got from North America, both here and in the West Indies, could in great part be derived from the southern continent, and a set of wood-clearers would originate there also, to prepare the extension of agriculture inland. Lord Bla- quiere, and the other parliamentary advocates of the old navi- gation-laws, do not seem aware of the positive mischief and hourly loss resulting from the use of British-built shipping ; nor of the delay of colonial improvement resulting from re- fusing to tlicir vast forests the natural market. Provinces of w'oods now valueless would acquire an instantaneous impor- tance, a transferable marketable worth, if ships built in the 18 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Esscqucbo, or tlie Orinoko, had all the privileges of British shipping; and vessels could be built, in future much cheaper at home, if the competition of the tropical trade, for which fir and oak shipping are well adapted, were in some measure withdrawn. The navigation laws have done nothing but mis- chief; they delayed, by half a century, tlie natural progress of North America, and therefore in a great degree, occasioned her rebellion ; and if they are not repealed with respect to the "West Indies, they threaten to occasion there a practical anar- chy, in which the sovereignty of Britain will be nominally re- spected in her colonies, but her laws every where disobeyed by a general connivance. The several governors are obliged to exert perpetually a dispensing power, and thus, in fact, to abrogate a system of legislation, which accumulated experi- ence has shown to be pernicious. There are some convincing observations on this subject in the Annual Review for ISO^, which I hold it useful to repeat. ** The fundamental principle of our navigation-laws, presents itself already in a statute of tlie fifth year of Richard II. which enacts that none bring in or carry out merchandize but in En- glish ships. This regulation was somewhat relaxed in favour of the French provinces belonging to England ; for under Henry VII. additional provisions were made in the fourth year of his reign, for importing the claret of Guienne in SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 19 English vessels. Selden drew the attention of the long parlia- ment to this subject ; and, by his speeches and controversial pamphlets, prepared that systematic attention of the legislature to secure a monopoly of the shipping-trade employed about our own importations and exportations, which is so efficiently pursued in tjie 12th Charles II. This bill, known by the name of the navigation-act, by its severe and precise definition of English vessels, completely realized what the statute of Richard II. had in view. It is a law which appears singularly wise to Lord Sheffield, which he considers as the trident of the British Neptune, and which he holds up as the principal and perpetual cause of our maritime prosperity and superiority." " We doubt the utility of this vaunted navigation-act. " I. If EngWsh-built ships had no peculiar privileges, vessels would be built where timber is cheapest: in Canada, in the Su- rinam, and elsewhere. This would occasion some exportation of shipwrights to the woodier regions of the earth, a more rapid colonization of them, and the consequent extension of the British market for produce and manufacture. It would oc- casion some diminution of the value of timber at home, thus cheapening the expei^ce of naval defence and territorial archi- tecture, and favouring the conversion of forest into pasture. The sorts of timber too could then be suited to the probable voyage; and teak shipping could be constructed for the tropl- D 'J 20 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE cal seas, which so rapidly destroy Ijr and oak shippmg. It would occasion the Irequeiit purchase of I'orcign vessels, when- ever war or similar causes interrupt the trade ot" the continent, and thus be continually adding the very implements of foreign commerce to our own. Our wealth would long ago have ob- tained a much larger share of the shipping, and of the at- tached commerce of tlie world, but for this restriction of the navigation-law. Besides, if the ships of each country are transferable to every other, a smaller number of shi{>s can ac- complish the business of the world. While the trade of the Baltic becomes inactive from frost, or of the Mediterranean from indolence, the appropriate shipping might be employed in the Atlantic ; but if the proprietors of the Atlantic islands may not employ foreign vessels, they must create native ones; which in their turn will have to repose, while they might have been sold or let, beyond the Sound or the Streights. The builth, wear, and tear of all this needless shipping must be le- vied on the consumer of removed wares in the price of freight; and thus, in some degree, discouriige both the production and removal of such ware, " II. If EngVish-mamied sliips had no peculiar privileges, sailors would be hired where they can be hired cheapest. For tropical voyages, lascars; for arctic voyages, norse-men, would mostly be engaged, and thus the drains of war and climate on our population would imperceptibly be replaced ; and the SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 21 supply of natives requisite for the navy would far more easily be obtained. The expcnce of sailors* wages too, being in that case as low in Great Britain as in any other country, would not be peculiarly burdeiisome to our resident ship-owners. That depreciation of freight, which the successful competition of foreign shipping has often occasioned, and which, at times, threatens to oust us of the carrying-trade, would never result from the relative state of wages, and, therefore, less frequently occur. " If, in consequence of the alertness of our masters of vessels, and of their economy of time, our ship-owners can successfully compete with foreigners, who pay lower wages for their crews, how much vaster would be our shipping-in- terest, but for this restriction of the navigation law i "III. If EngVish-oicner'd ships had no peculiar privileges, al- most all vessels, not employed in the coasting-trade, would be owned conjointly by Englishmen and foreigners. The ves- sels trading to Hamburgh or the Baltic, would belong in part to the English houses, to whom they would be consigned here ; and belong in part to the Hamburghers or Anseatic citi- zens, to whom they would be consigned in the North Seas. The vessels trading to America, would have their proprietors resident there. In those trading to the Mediterranean, mer- chants of Livomo and Smyrna would purchase small shares, in order to secure a preference of consignation. The conse- quence of interesting a consignee in the profits of a ship is, 22 ■ STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE that the expence of demurrage, or stay in a foreign port, is thereby greatly lessened. He has to gain by delaying a ship wholly British ; he has to gain by expediting a sliip partly his own. In the one case, the hulk yawns for a cargo, during months, beside the mole ; in the other case, it is discharged and re-charged, like a Scotch still. Immense is the labour lost to the country, and to the world, in consequence of the impediment to foreign partnerships, imposed by this restric- tion of the navigation-act. But it has still another mischievous operation. In time of war, vessels jointly owner'd are easily transferred to the neutral party; and thus commerce would be very exempt from the troubles of war; but vessels, all whose owners are English, cannot suddenly, or in large num- bers be transferred, so as to reap the advantages of neutrality. Hence the necessity of permitting merchants to turn their ves- sels into privateers. This barbarous practice increases during vyar.the quantity of positive destruction and of unproductive labour ; and it supersedes the navy in a sort of piratical vigi- lance, which ought rather to be the occupation and the reward of valour than of industry. . ."These three points are the principal provisions of the navi- gation-act. It requires vessels to be built at home, manned from home, oiv7ied at home. Lord Sheffield will not find it easy to prove any one of these regulations beneficial. They existed, without creating £i marine, from Richard the Second SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, Scc. 23 to Henry the Eighth. As soon as the colonies, or plantations, began to thrive, a marine grew up ; which, in the Dutch war of Cromwell, and in that at tlie beginning of the reign of Charles the Second (both before the navigation-act), was equal or superior to the united navies of France and Holland. Our naval strengsh has gruwn with our colonial intercourse, not by means of, but in spite of the act of navigation. It was found absolutely necessary to break in upon this act in the 25th of Geo. UI. by what was calltl the Dutch Property Act; without which Britain could not have profited from the migra- tion of Dutch capital, rendered natural by the French con- quest of Holland. A further inroad of a more equivocal kind was made the year following, by conferring a dispensing power on the privy-council ; a measure the resource of lazi- ness, which cared not to discuss, and dared not to abandon decidedly, the old system." 2'!' STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE CHAPTER II. LANDING AT STABROEK — FIRST IMPRESSION OF THE PLACE .■ AND PEOPLE VISIT TO THE REYNESTEIN ESTATE RIVER DEMERARY ASCENDED TO THE SAND-HILLS AND RAPIDS, W: E landed about noon at the American wharf. It spread like wild-fire that we were from one of the vessels just arri- ved ; and our captain was soon surrounded by the whole band of hucksters and pedlars belonging to the town. Here were blacks, yellows, and tawnies, bawling and vociferating in a wretched jargon, half Dutch and half English, whether he had any thing to sell — each trying to hitch himself closer than his neighbour. Not liking to be inclosed within this stifling ring of people, I took an opportunity of slipping between a stout mulatto woman and a negro butcher six feet high, leav- ing Captain Barrow in the midst of his assurances that he had plenty of goods for sale. Seeing some fine oranges I asked for six-penny-worth; the negress gave me thirty. I was obliged to call in the aid of my handkerchief and pockets to contain them. This was a scene which stamped me as a new- comer. Several negroes standing by oft'ered to carry the oranges for me. Others greeted me on my arrival witk SETTLEMENTS OjN THE DEMERARY, ScC. 85 "How d'ye massa? You come from Buchra Country no? Buchra Country Good!" Stabrock was to me quite a new sight. I recollected no English town which bore the least resemblance. It stands on the flat strand, and canals, where black and tawny children were plunging about like didappers, inclose the main street: while wooden houses, with colonnaded porticoes and balco- nies shaded by a projecting roof, are orderly arranged between spacious intervals in three parallel lines. They are seldom above two story high : they stand on low brick foundations, arid are roofed with a red wood, which I took for mahogany. No where the glitter of a glass casement; Venetian blinds, or jealousees as they are called by the inhabitants, close every window; and the rooms project in all directions to catch the luxury of a thorough draft of air, so that the ground-plan of a dwelling is mostly in the shape of a cross. There are no trees in the streets as in Holland ; the town would have been plea- santer with this imitation of the old country; but casks and bales lie about, as if every road was a wharf, and numerous warehouses are intermingled with the d\yellings. Even the pub- lic buildings are of wood. Blacks clad only \yith a blue pan- taloon, or with a mere towel of checking supported by a string about the loins, come to perform every office. Here and therQ a white man in a muslin shirt, and gingham trowsers is seen smoaking his segar, and giving directions from under an um- E 26 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE brella to his sable messengers; or is led about In a phaeton drawn by ponies to superintend the shipping of his goods. A noon-day sultriness and silence prevail : every motion is performed with such tranquillity for fear of kicking up a dust, that one vt^ould suppose the very labourers at work in a church during service. Being now overtaken by Captain Barrow, who came blow- ing and puffing from the fatiguingly warm reception he met with on his landing, we were conducted to the merchant with whom I was destined to reside. The first refreshment offered me was Madeira wine and water. The water was clear and cool, and a great luxury. I had not tasted such all the voyage ; I had not cared for such all my life before. It was rain-water, I found, preserved in a wooden cistern, and puri- fied by dropping through a filtering stone. The river-water is brackish, and there are no good springs near Stabroek. I next retired to cleanse myself from the make-shift habits of the voyage. A shower-bath was offered me, which I ac- cepted. I got into an upright square tub or cistern ; and a negress watered me like a transplanted cucumber. The ac- commodations for bathing are unworthy of the climate. In all fevers and especially in that which Europeans call the sea- soning, bathing is the most essential remedy. For luxury, for yieatness, it is a most valuable pastime. By the time I had SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, ^C. 27 unpacked, washed, and dressed, dinner was ready, namely a^ five. A dinner at Stabroek is a sort of mercantile medley of the imitable parts of the manners of remote nations. There wai soop to begin with as in France, and salted ling to begin with as in Holland : there was an English huge joint of beef and a couple of Moscovy ducks: there was an Italian desert of Bo- logna sausages and sallad, anchovies and olives: there was fruit of all kinds, pine-apples, guavas, oranges, shaddocks and avoiras. Wine was taken during the repast, and porter be- tween the courses, for a bonne-bouche. At dusk, spermaceti candles were lighted, and placed within large cones of glass, to prevent the wind from blowing them aside. Segars were offered to us at the whist table, and most of the party smoaked, and drank coffee. A hammock, pro- tected by a gauze curtain against the mosquitoes, was allotted me to sleep in, until beds could be put up. The household establishment I found to consist of eight male and two female negro-servants; a strange disproportion. The house was spacious, airy, and open, with pervious shut- ters, to admit every where a free circulation of air. e2 ^8" STATISTICAL ACCd'tTNt Of tHE A few days after my arrival I accompanied my friend up the river on a visit to the Reyncstcin estate. Our conveyance was a tent-boat. They are generally from twenty to thirty feet long, aiid vvid6 in proportion; they afe btiiTt vefy- Sharp for the purpose of sailing 6r rowing fa^t. About six or eight feet of the; s^ern arc occupied by the ^ent, i'n the inside of .which are Winds" to let down as occasion re^uii-es. A" cockpit Js behTnd" for ttve cockswalfi to' steer ht. fife is* styled Captain, a'hd has entire command 6f thfe boat. The negroes while pul- ling fbblc off their hats and jackrets; they appeared quite nierry and sung all the way — the chorus of their principal and most favourite song was " Good Neger make good Massa;" and was repeated at intervals by one whose sole part that was. They appeared to have a great pride and" emulation about thcii' boat, and an opportunity offered of shewing it. Ano- ther boat being considerably a-head of us they exerted them- selves of their own accord, and soon passed her. With this they were highly delighted, and, when abreast of their com- petitors, laid oh their oars and insuhingly asked them if they wanted a tow-rope. The Demerary is, as' I before' sa'id, two miles broad it its mouth, but inland it does not exceed one mile and a half. Its bed runs up this width perfectly straight to Diamond point. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 2d ^^•luch is about ten miles from Stabrock, where it takes a course more westward. The river affords an excellent harbour, and would, in fact, hold all the navy of Great Britain, but unfor- tunately the bar will not admit vessels that draw rhdre than eighteen feet. Ships lying here are completely sheltered from all squalls and tempestuous weather, nor do hurricanes ever occur. The water in the mid-channel deepened as we pro- ceeded from four to six fathoms. The cultivation along the river is confined to sugar, coffee^' and plantains, with a small quantity of cocoa and rice. Tltei' latter was but recently introduced ; however, little doubt w^aCs' entertained of its being made perfectly to answer the purp6s6' of the colony; and if the cultivation v^^as encouraged by g^e 4-8 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE comes down and takes his coflFee, after which, a walk round the buildings, to enquire into the state of the negroes and their work, concludes the day. Dutch overseers treat their principals with the utmost respect : as they approach Myn- heer within half a dozen yards, the hat is immediately doffed as a token of their inferiority, and is placed under the arm while receiving his orders, to all of which the answer is, *'Ja, weledele gestreenge Heer." — " Yes, great and honoured Sir." Such insignificant and unrestrained flattery as this from one European to another, is truly disgusting, and ought, I think, to be totally laid aside ; but such are the failings of human nature, that I have seen sensible well informed men in other respects, while surrounded by their friends, call up their over- seers to give orders and ask questions, merely to display their greatness, and the respect they are held in, by a public repe- tition of such flattery. The negroes belonging to Dutch estates, copy the overseers' humble politeness, and are consi- derably more respectful to whites than those belonging to English plantations. A certain erect carriage in John Bull imperceptibly introduces itself into the incult address of the English negroes. Or it -may arise from their not being kept so strictly, nor considered in so degraded situation as other negroes are. I am convinced, was it made a general rule among European planters to inculcate into the minds of the negroes proper ideas of their situation, as the English do, it would inspire them with a certain degree of emulation and SETTLEMENTS OK THE DEMERARY, &C. 49 pride : seeing themselves respected and held in estimation would answer much better than the fear of punishment, in keeping them to their regular employments. This hint, if properly attended to, may in the course of time bring the slaves in the West Indies on a level with the English peasantry of this day : their present situation may be compared to that vas- salage in which nobles formerly held the lower order of peo- ple throughout Europe. The general hour for retiring to rest in the country, is about eight or nine o'clock, the intermediate time between this and sun set, is occupied by smoaking and drinking gin. Should no neighbour, or traveller, call to spend the evening with the great man, he is sometimes induced to send for the convenient overseer to play cards, or draughts, with him, which is considered as a mark of great favor. I should have observed, that sometimes it is the wish of the proprietor, that the negroes, after leaving work, should come and receive their daily allowance of rum before his door, where he sits in state smoaking his pipe, sullenly receiving the reiterated thanks of the negroes in broken English and Dutch " Dankee Meesler." The Dutch planters are vain of a large house and a number of servants, which are mosdy female; their garden, curricle, and pleasure boat, engage anodier part of their attention ; they are particularly fond of good horses, and certainly deserve them, from their attention and care for those animals. H 50 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE I have often considered with astonishment, the mixture of European inhabitants which destiny has heaped toge- ther in this community. Dutch, Germans, Prussians, Rus- * sians, Swedes, Danes, Spaniards, French, and Americans, may be incorporated as one-third of the white population, and Great Britain claims the other two. All national enmity seems to be forgotten, while the pursuits of the motley group are di- rected unanimously to climbing the ladder of fortune. Men are seen on all its stages, looking forward with anxious solici- tude for the time of reaching the heighth of their ambition. Happily, commercial competition has in it little of envy; for each finds his own account in the success of his rival. The rich man is a better customer, a more liberal creditor, a safer debtor, than the necessitous: everyone thrives the faster, be- cause his neighbour has already thriven. There is a market-place where the negroes assemble to sell their truck, such as fruit, vegetables, fowls, eggs, and where the hucksters expose for sale articles of European manufacture (much in the same manner as the pedlars do in England) in addition to salt beef, pork, and fish, bread, cheese, pipes, tobacco, and other articles, in small quantities, to enable the negroes to supply themselves agreeably to the length of their purses. Hucksters are free women of color, who purchase their commodities of merchants at two or three months credit, and retail them out in the manner described. Many of them SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 51 are, indeed, wealthy, and possess ten, fifteen, and twenty- negroes, all of whom they employ in this traffic. It is by no means an uncommon thing for negroes in this line to be travel- ling about the country for several weeks together, sometimes with an attendant, having trunks of goods to a considerable amount, say two hundred pounds, and when a good oppor- tunity offers, they remit to their mistresses what money they have taken. It is really surprizing what a large sum is thus returned by these people going from one estate to another. The permission of the manager on every plantation is always necessary, before the huckster ventures to the negro houses, where the bargains are made. Those that have not money barter their fowls, pigs, segars, for what they stand in need of. The hucksters are provided with such an assortment as to be able to supply the negro with a coarse check, or the manager with a fine cambric, tor his shirts. Coloured women of all descriptions are extravagantly fond of dress: but those resident in the covmtry, not having such an opportunity as the ■ Stabroek ladies of seeing every thing new as it arrives, feel a lively sensation of joy and pleasure at the sight of a huckster, and anticipate the pleasure of tumbling over the contents of her trunk; and if it contains any new articles of fashion, their hearts beat high with wishes to obtain them. If a joe or a dollar be still remaining, it is sure to go : should their purse be empty, they make no hesitation in asking for credit: such is the general character and conduct of coloured women. H 2 52 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE There is a certain stage in the progress of civilization in which a country is most conveniently supplied by pedlars. The inhabitants live too tar asunder, and are not numerous enough to support stationary shops ; yet the probable con- sumption of each estate is sufficient to re.\ard the journey of a hawker of wares. The European jews still exercise this di- vision of labor, which Europe has outgrown : they are con- sequendy sinking in utility: their trade is less profitable and less popidar than it was some centuries ago. They would do well to come over in large numbers to South America, where they might become efficient agents for the distribution of Eu- ropean commodities throughout the interior. The dialect of the European Jews is admirably adapted for the coast of Guy- ana, which speaks a medley of Dutch and English, softened by negro pronunciation into a lingua franca, the very coun- terfeit of their speech in Europe. It may be added, that at Paramaribo, a large Jew population has been found to thrive. Adjoining the market-place are the butchers' shambles. The butchers are mostly free men of color, who have pur- chased their emancipation, and have acquired a little capital and credit. They commence their career by the slaughter of pigs, after that of sheep ; oxen soon follow. They supply themselves from the importations of the Americans, and from those few planters who rear cattle for sale. Unless a butcher clears ten or fifteen pounds sterling by an ox, he thinks it a SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 53 bad bargain. He is at no expcnce whatever, as, on the arrival of an ox in town, it is immediately conveyed to the slaughter house. The market is copiously supplied with butchers' meat, but at a most extravagant rate : mutton 3s. veal 2s. 6d. beef 2s. Id. pork lOd. per pound. With lish, the town is not so well pro- vided as the country, no fish-monger has ever yet engaged in the business upon a scale sutficiently extensive to supply the population. The utmost endeavor yet made is that of some negroes, who hire themselves of their masters, at so much a ■ day or month, and go a little beyond the mouth of the river in canoes, returning by one or two o'clock and selling what they may have caught. A very glutinous fish, called a Pau- ^'*' kama, which is esteemed a dainty, is taken in a curious man ner. It finds a principal part of its sustenance in hollow trees, logs of wood, and in the skeletons of old ships, which from laying in mud by the water side, soon decay. These they visit for food during flood tide, but at ebb are left in the ca- vities of the wood, out of which the negroes draw them by a hook fastened to the end of a stick. Houses for fire-engines are contiguous to the market-place, and a company of fire men are formed out of the coloured free people, for doing which duty they are exempted from serving in the Burgher militia. There are two engines, but from the 54 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE negligence of those wlio have the care of them, it is feared they are not in repair fit for use. At the King's Stelling, ferry boats are always in waiting to carry passengers, horses, chaises, to the other side of the river, where there are two high roads, one leading up the river, the other cross to the Essequebo. The public buildings in the town are the governor's house, and a range of offices for conducting public business. — The secretary's office is so large as to comprize the courts of police and justice, and a place of worship, in which the Dutch service is first performed, on a Sunday, by an ecclesiastic of that country, after which the garrison chaplain reads the prayers appointed by the church of England. Next comes the receiver general's office for the king's colonial duties : the commissary's or king's stores : the town guard-house : and the exploiteur, or marshall's office; after which the public goal, for the confinement of criminals, debtors, runaway, or arrested negroes. In the adjoining town, to the south-east, is the burial-ground, comprising ten acres of land. In the new town, or Cumingsburgh, is the fiscal's office, custom-house, post office, and a colonial hospital, for the reception of those, who are unable to defray medical expences, or being reduced by illness are out of employ. When the writer was about leavitig the colonies, the merchants and principal inhabitants SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 55 were entering into large coniributions, for the purpose of building a marine hospital, or Lazaretto, capable of containing five hundred patients. Should this arrangement be carried into effect, it will be the means of adding greatly to the comforts of the seamen employed in this trade, who for want of such an extensive establishment as this is intended to be, are obliged to linger with the most dreadful distempers in the hold or steer- age of a vessel engaged in the hurry and confusion of taking in, or discharging a cargo, without that attendance and rest, which are so requisite to people in their situation. ■' ^ The houses are built of wood, two and three stories high, raised on brick foundations, which include excellent cellars. The frames and shingles (which are laths of twelve inches long and four wide, laid on the tops of houses like tiles) are the pro- duce of the adjacent forests. Boards, planks, clap-boards, for closing in, are imported from America. No tires, nor even stoves are in the dwelling houses, the kitchen being always sepa- rate; but for their cleanliness little indeed can be said, when compared to those in England. The principal fuel used is wood, and the meat, instead of being roasted, is baked. The generality of the cooks are men, and a good one sells for almost any money. Good houses well situated for mercantile concerns, either in Stabroek, or the new town, let with avidity for three, four, and five hundred pounds yearly. This sort of building, if undertaken by a merchant settler, lays a great deal 56 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE of money fast, which could be much better employed. The gross rents do not pay more than twelve or fourteen per cent: certainly, there are no taxes, but wooden houses are continually wanting repairs, and require a coat of paint every twelve months. The premium for insuring this sort of buildings, which is done in England, is also very high. At the end of the year, when the landlord receives his rent, and reckons up his out- goings, I am convinced he will not have cleared six per cent, on his money, which if properly employed in other pursuits, where he has the opportunity of returning it two or three times within that period, he would have made cent per cent of it. Again, a certain loss attends all buidings when resold, especi- ally these built of so perishable a material. I am so far satis- fied on this point, that I would recommend any merchant going out, to hire — not to build; and thereby profit by other men's experience. The labor of mechanics is with us extravagantly dear. A negro carpenter, or mason, earns from live to ten shillings a day according to his skill. Perhaps it would answer to send out from Europe a company of practised builders, under the com- mand of an able architect, who might undertake, first at Sta- broek, then at New Amsterdam, the constructions requisite. Houses could be built by them for half price, and usually SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C, 57 yield so high a rent in new countries, that it might be worth the while of European merchants to advance the capital requi- site for their structure : it would supply in the form of rent, a secure and a liberal interest. The principal material used is North-American lumber, of which the market-value fluctuates much : it is thought that down the river Orinoko this material might be fetched at a cheaper rate. I have known the price of lumber vary from six to twenty pounds per thousand feet; the demand indeed exceeds the quantity imported, for which reason the latter price is nearer the standard. Lime is a vast expence, being brought to us from Europe : surely a little search in the interior would discover lime-stone rocks among the mountains. Dutch terras sells for twenty pounds sterling the hogshead. A house of 40 feet long and 28 wide, to be well finished, with outbuildings, two stories high with an attic, and raised on a brick foundation eight feet high, costs here at a moderate calculation two thousand five hundred pounds, be- sides the lot of land, which if conveniently situated could not be had for less than two hundred pounds. The town was originally laid out in lots of one hundred by two hundred feet, many of which, small as they appear, have been divided into quarter and half lots. These lots are continually increasing in value, but they do not form, as in the North-american cities, habitual objects of stock-jobbing and of mercantile speculation. This art of selling the ground on which a house stands, A\'ith- out selling the house, or the right of living in it, has the me- I 58 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE lit of rendering circulable a greater portion of the fixed pro- perty of a country, and thus facihtates the obtainal of capital for every sort of enterprize. The poUce is very strict, and as the laws are Dutch, so are the names of the officers of justice. The Fiscal is the chief magistrate, who has under him the Drossart (sheriff or jailer) and twenty Dienaars (constables or servants of justice). Ne- groes guilty of improper conduct in the streets, or of being out after eight o'clock of the night without a passport, are com- mitted to the jail, where they remain until liberated by their owners, when they receive such a punishment as their fault deserves, Very exorbitant fees are attached to the jail and jailer. The following is a correct list of the charges : s. d. Arresting a Negro f. 5 : 10 or Admission - 5 : 10 or Seven days maintenance at lOd per day. Flogging Discharge - , - 9 6 9 6 5 10 9 6 9 6 £2 3 10 The law permits only thirty-nine lashes at a time, unless for a capital offence, when the culprit is tried openly by the court, which adjudges and passes sentence if he is proved guilty. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, ^C. 59 There are about fifty negroes belonging to the colony, whose houses are at the back of Stabroek. These negroes are for the common good, and their employment is to keep the town, streets, sewers, and canals, in good repair. Several of them are convicted criminals, and instead of being transported to Bo- tany Bay, or any other place, are sentenced to work in chains about Stabroek; while the owners receive a stipulated sum from the colony funds for them. This is certainly a disgrace to the court of police. To see these poor miserable objects, our fellow creatures, working from morning till night in heavy chains, without regard to weather, destitute of cloaths, with only a coarse rag round their middle, and, as I am told, frequently with no- thing but dry plantains to eat. About half a dozen pipes are attached to the gang ; when one poor fellow has taken a few whiffs, he passes it to another, and so on. I am not going to ob- ject to the punishment of criminals, on the contrary, let them meet their deserts. There is moderation in every thing, and when the court of justice condemned these poor people to la- bour in chains, it was not intended to deprive them of all the comforts of human life. Therefore I blame the court of police for not making their servant, the scavenger, do his duty in providing for the wants of these negroes, at least suitably to their situations. At all events suffering chained negroes to work in Stabroek I consider as improper. It is a common saying that custom familiarizes every thing. Here however I must difVer, for notwithstanding I was in the habit of seeing I 2 •60 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE them cvery-day for almost seven years, I never could be recon- ciled to such proceed ings ; my heart and feelings recoiled against them, as inhuman. I now suggest the idea to his Excel- lency Governor Bentinck, to have these negroes with fifty or sixty more who are employed at the fortification, taken farther into the interior; let them be well fed and cloathed, and made more comfortable than they are at present. There they may clear the country, cultivate a track of land for the colony, and the proceeds of their industry would not only keep in repair the town, but improve it. The only charitable institution supported by the colony is the hospital in Labourgade, which takes in a certain number of patients through the medium of directors. They are peo- ple unable to defray medical expences, and principally con- sist of seamen, and free people of color from other parts of the West Indies, and only transient residents. The whole face of the country presented a gratifying view of hospitality and munificence on my arrival, and when acts of bounty were necessary, the inhabitants seem to vie with each other in their liberality. I could bring forward many in- stances of their charitable acts ; however a few will suflSce. A widow and two children were left destitute by the death of the husband and father, whose only means of supporting them depended on his exertions, while alive; a private subscription SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &:C. G\ was entered into for their relief, and nearly five hundred pounds were raised, which enabled them to return to their mother country. An artillery-man belonging to his Majesty's forces, while bringing a vessel to, at Fort William Frederic, by some mismanagement had his arm broken, and so much shat- tered as to cause immediate amputation ; a purse of two hundred and forty or fifty pounds was made up for him just before his leaving the colony. Some Spanish prisoners, taken in one of the piccaroon boats from the Orinoko, were brought into the Demerary last war in a most dreadful situation, being in want of shoes and stockings and cloaths of every descrip- tion. Previously to their being exchanged, a subscription was made among some of the merchants, and fifty Joes, nearly one hundred pounds, were collected and laid out for them. Various other acts of benevolence might be adduced. A fund which is daily encreasing called the " Kirk en arm geldt," or church and poor money, is derived from a per centage duty on all sales by auction. As it has been accumulat- ing for a number of years, there are no means of judging of the probable amount, except by an investigation of the ac- counts of those persons who are the receivers of it. This ought immediately to be done by the court of police, and that amount, joined to the overplus of any other colonial fund, would form a considerable capital, which might be lent to new settlers at six per cent interest per annum, for the ex- 62 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE press purpose of commencing cultivation in the interior of this vast tract of valuable territory. It would evidently be the means of forwarding three objects — that of encreasing the fund; that of serving individuals ; and that of e7icouraging agriculture, by enabling planters ivith small capitals, to extend their pursuits beyond the sea coast, and banks of the rivers and creeks. This point merits consideration; and I strongly recom- mend it to the notice of the governor and council. Should they not attend to it, our present judicious ministers will, I hope, when the colonies are permanently attached to Great Britain, take such measures as to carry so desirable a plan into execution. The sum expended for support of the poor is nothing. We have none ! at least that are dependent on the colony. The church establishment is very trivial, there is only one English and one Dutch clergyman, and to prove how very tolerant the inhabitants are, they all use the same church. The Dutch service is read from ten till eleven on a Sunday morning, when the Dutch congregation retires, and makes room for the English one. The high duty on glass bottles in Great Britain is taken off when exported, and from the immense number of them which are imported with malt liquor into these colonies, they be- come valueless ; indeed they accumulate so fast that people are often glad to get rid of tliem by throwing them into the ditches SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 63 and trenches about town. The canals abound with bottles, as if natural to the soil, and the free negroes, who make spruce beer, go round the town with baskets to pick them up. Any gentleman who wishes to bottle off a pipe of grey beard Madeira, has nothing to do but send his servants round the town, or a boat alongside any of the shipping, where they may be supplied with bottles in abundance, and have thanks for taking them away, which saves the steward and cabin boy the trouble of throwing them into the river, which they would rather do than land them in England, where the duty would be more than they are worth. On my return to England the other passengers and myself threw into the sea between forty and fifty dozen bottles, emptied in the course of the passage; it was a fund of amusement on a calm day, after throwing in a bottle as a mark, to see who could break it first with others. The packets are calculated to arrive at Barbadoes twice a month, whence the mails are conveyed to the different islands and colonies in mail boats engaged for that purpose. How anxiously the arrival of them is expected, is better ex- perienced than described : the merchant and planter desirous of obtaining information of their shipments; the poli- tician wishing to know the state of affairs in Europe ; and those of a more domestic turn, solicitous about tlieir fami- lies, are all gratified by their arrival, and are alike impa- 64 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE tient till the hour is come, which the tardy post-master has. appointed for the delivery of letters and news papers. A weekly paper is published here, entitled the Essequebo and Demerary Gazette. The proclamations of government are inserted both in the Dutch and in the English language. Some diverting mixtures of dialect occur in the advertisements: but the English language is constantly gaining ground, as the new settlers all bring that dialect. The European and other news is given in English, and is extracted, as may happen, from the Barbadocs, the Liverpool, the London, or the Balti- more papers. The mass of advertisements respects sales of slaves, of stores, and of estates. The state or court house is a large white building, about one hundred feet long and thirty-five feet wide, and two stories and a half high. It is situated on the side of the river in front of Stabroek, one end facing the river to the westward, and the other one east. On the second floor is the council cham- ber, court of justice, and Secretary's office, where the colo- nial business is transacted. Tlie business of the Secretary's office is done by the Colonial Secretary and six or eight clerks. All deeds, contracts, wills, letters of attorney, transfers of estates, mortgages, the proceedings of the courts of po- lice and justice, are recorded here. The Secretary is also a notary public, and a sworn translator. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 6S The public offices in Stabroek are numerous; but, as build- ings, they present nothing very striking in architectural gran- deur or beauty ; a sameness of wooden houses pervades the whole town. The best is the governor's office, where there are two clerks and a private secretary employed. As is customary, the captain and myself waited on his excellency, accompanied by the gentleman to whom I was addressed, and presented him with a copy of the manifest, after «igning which, he issued a permission, which was to be given in at the custom-house, authorizing the captain to break bulk. On my being introduced to him, he received me very politely, asked me jocosely if I was a descendant of the famous Lord Bolingbroke, and expressed himself highly pleased with that nobleman's literary works, saying that he had them in his library. All official documents and colonial papers pass through the governor's office, and for every time he signs his name, his piivale secretary receives two dollars, for which he no doubt accounts to the principal. Evidences given before the courts of justice are in the form of affidavits, which must be made before his excellency. Passports for people leaving the country, permissions for ships to load or discharge, powers of attorney, and various other papers of a similar tendency, must undergo his signature: thus, beside suftering a previous tax from the office, out of which they are first granted, they K 66 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE are burthened by paying for the governor's signature. No wonder our West Indian governors grow rich, when they have such opportunities. The office next in importance is the secretary's, where eight clerks are employed in recording deeds, contracts, wills, mortgages, transports, powers of attorney, and notarial protests, in issuijig passports and advertising departures. The proceed- ings of the different courts are also registered here, and trans- lations made from the Dutch to the English language; all the proceedings of the court being Dutch, an Englishman is fre- quently obliged to have their decrees and sentences translated for him. This is a mortifying and under the present distribu- tion of property, an inconvenient regulation for the colony. Surely it would be wise to appoint a Recorder, graduated in the English inns of law, for the avowed purpose of preparing in these courts of justice, the reception of the language and forms of proceeding of the metropolitan country. He would know how to select for the especial sanction of his majesty's privy council, those few Dutch regulations which are inter- woven with the subsisting constitution of property, and may therefore require to be retained. There are two receivers, whose department it is to receive the colonial taxes and so- vereign's fees, duties, and imposts. Our chief magistrate, the fiscal, has his office in Labourgade. He is empowered by the laws to see them put in force and strictly adhered to. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 67 with the power of levying fines and committing to prison ; he is similar in one point of view to the attorney-general of England, as being advocate for the crown. Appeals can of course be made from his award, to the court, and from the court (if a cause of sufficient consequence) to the king in council. The fiscal has under him, as officers of justice, the drossart and dienaars ; the former, as we before observed, acts as sheriff or head jailer, and the latter as constables or watch- men, who have charge of the jail and police. We had the honor of paying our respects to the fiscal, with whom we left a list of the crew and passengers, with an account of their age and place of nativity. A fine of one thousand guilders being inflicted on the captains of vessels for every person they land without giving in his name and de- scription, and the like fine being levied for every such per- son who is taken from the colony in any ship or vessel with- out a passport, this law is very necessary to be known. The consignee of every vessel is obliged to enter into a bond at the secretary's office, for the full performance of these stipula- tions on the part of the captain. I cannot leave the fiscal's office without relating a ridicu- lous anecdote of Mynheer Van den V , when that gentle- man filled the employment. A planter one day meeting him on the public road between Stabroek and Mahaica, who had a pri- K 2 ©8:. STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE vate pique against him, accosted and requested to know what the amount of the fine would be to give a man, who had treated him ill, a good beating. The fiscal replied it would be one hundred and fifty guilders, for which sum he would insure him against all law proceedings. The planter imme- diately paid him the stipulated amount, and requested the astonished fiscal to alight, that he might take his revenge; which he refusing to do, the planter held the horse's bri- dle with one hand, while he horse-whipped the fiscal with the other. Mynheer Van den V was so completely ashamed of his disgrace, that he pocketed the affront with the fine, without taking any steps to gain redress. It happened in 1798, and the planter who performed the achievement was a Creole of Barbadoes. The business of the exploiteur's, or what I believe is termed in English tlie marshal's or bailiff's, office is to serve citations or summonses, execute arrests, levy executions, and put in force all sentences adjudged by the courts. There are offices for the colonial book-keeper, harbour-master, colonial surgeons and branch pilots, as established by the police. The post-office is both badly and extravagantly conducted as to charges, and deserves the immediate notice of the court of police, to fix and arrange a proper tariff to guide the post- master for the future. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 69 As to the custom-house, I despau* of reducing its exorbitant charges, as the officers who have the conducting of it, reign lords paramount there, uncontrouled by either governor, or councih The charges of clearing a vessel are enormous ; for British ships loaded and bound to England, from sixty to se- venty pound?, in proportion to their tonnage and cargo. To Americans and neutrals the charges are in the same pro- portion doubled ; independendy of the duty, they pay 2^ per cent, on one, and 5 per cent, on the other. The comptrol- lers and collectors of his- Majesty's customs in these colonies are in very lucrative situations, capable of making large fortunes in a short time. But the burden on commerce greatly transcends, I fear, the profits of the revenue : so that a com- mutation of all custom-duties for a tax on the estimated rent of the cultivated land would probably be found, both to the state and the subject, a profitable change. The vendue-master's appointment is also very lucrative. This is an office under government, similar to an auctioneer ; there being but one allowed, and authorised, which makes the place so very valuable. The percentage on sales according to law is not more than 5 per cent, but the additional or in- cidental expenses make it ten. The principal people who at- tend these sales are Dutchmen, and the bottle of gin and glass are handed about - so briskly, that the fumes mount into their heads, and give their tongues such volubility, that they 70 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE scarcely know or care or hear what they buy. A drunken man, it is sard, sees double; and I believe it is frequently the case with them, after too great an indulgence in gin, and smoaking, which is quite caxnmon at all these sales, that they often purchase bargains for tWidfe as much as they are worth. Therefore it answers at all times, and especially at the even- ing auctions, to provide plenty of drams and segars. The vendue-masters of Demerary are only deputies themselves, yet they employ another deputy to transact their business in the neighbouring colony of Essequebo, who pays them one thousand pounds per annum as a fee rent of the office. The paper money which is in circulation in Essequebo and Demerary amounts to about one hundred thousand guilders. The smallest amount is 5d. sterling, or one bit, and the largest 5s. viz. three guilders. The notes are curiously denominated with little figures, that the negroes may know the amount, with- out being subjected to impositions from not being able to read. They are current all over the colonies, and were made to ob- viate the difficulty of obtaining small change; when a person has got a quantity of them, he may turn them into gold by applying at the receiver's office for colonial taxes, whence they are issued again. The colonial currency is like that of Holland, and consists of pennings, stivers, and guilders, though the coin in circulation is various. Guineas are worth twenty-five per cent more here than in England. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 71 16 pennings make 1 stiver, viz. Id. sterling 5 stivers — 1 bit — 5d. 20 do. or 4- bits — 1 guilder — 20d. 12 guilders, which is the par of exchange, make 20s. The coins, beside those enumerated above, are dollars 5s. each; gold Portugal coins, called ducats, 9s. each; moidores, 18s. and Johannes, or joes, which are S6s. <:i--m»<-?^^^-*-<^<^'-*>'V ^. Although the par of exchange Is twelve guilders to the pound sterling, it frequently varies accordiijg to the demand for bills on Great Britain, or the quantity of specie which is in request. In the former instance I have known government bills on his majesty's treasury to sell for fourteen guilders the pound, which is equal to ll. 3s. 4d. and even good private bills have sold at the same rate. In the latter case, when a want of specie obliges the planters to value on their corres- pondents, their bills have only sold for eleven guilders and eleven guilders and a half. Merchants wanting to remit, always prefer shipping pro- duce, in preference to buying bills at the high exchange of 14 guilders, as there is the same chance of that getting to a good market, and probably giving a profit, while the bill transac- tion incurs a certain loss of sixteen and two-thirds per cent, at the first outset. 72 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE The laws oblige every man from the age of sixteen to fifty, to enrol himself in the burgher militia ; they are liable to be called out when the governor thinks proper ; the officers are appointed by the court of police, they are commanded by a lieutenant-colonel ; their service extends no farther than pre- serving the internal tranquillity of the country, but in the last war, a number of British subjects volunteered their services, and were inrolled to act under the military commandant. On the British taking possession of the colonies this present war, a company of volunteer riflemen were formed, and on the arrival, in 1805,^f the combined fleets in the West Indies, be- tween three and four hundred of the burgher militia stepped forward, and offered their services to defend the colony against any attacks of the enemy. Every body now in town and country armed ; every estate on the sea coast provided a trusty negro, who was armed with a pike and cutlas ; a troop of cavalry was formed, and a company of volunteer artillery was also added to the military force. The garrison is gene- rally one thousand or twelve hundred strong. Four hundred seamen can always be had from the merchant ships in the river, by whom, with about six hundred .volunteers, and one hundred pioneers, a good defence might be sustained. But the greatest bulwark lies in the shallowness of the en- trances into the river, and the numerous mud banks and flats which run along the coast; and as there are signal staffs from the Berbice to theDemerary (which ought to be continued SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARV, itc. 73 across the Essequebo to the Pomaroon) the garrison is sooa apprized of an enemy being oft' the coast. It may be fairly asserted that with the natural and acquired strength of tlir country, and while the colonists are so favourable to Great Britain, an eftectual defence may be made against six or eight thousand men. Such is the advantage possessed by the inha- bitants when they wish to preserve the colony to its possessors. In the country, every officer of militia is a justice of the peace, and has under his jurisdiction, a certain division of the country to which he is attached ; these divisions are known and distinguished by different coloured banners under which they are arranged. They are termed burgher officers, issue proclamations, receive depositions on tax schedules, and are the active men in quelling disturbances, for which purpose they have a disposable force in the embodied militia of inhabitants. Since the introduction of volunteering, military funerals have usually been allotted to the whites : but the respect and attention paid at funerals of free people, and even of negroes, is very considerable. Not only all their relatives, but strangers feel it an incumbent duty to go. If a coloured free person dies in Stabroek, the remains are followed to the grave by every one in town. I have seen upwards of two hundred people of color followers. They are either in white mus^liu L 74? STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE dresses, or deep black mourning, according to whether the deceased is female, or male. Before the solemn procession takes place, the company refresh themselves with scalt wine and cake. The coffin, which though merely covered with black cloth and lined with linen, costs twenty-five pounds ster- ling, is conveyed in a hearse, attended by twelve bearers, then the clergyman, mourners, and followers. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 75 CHAPTER IV. STABROEK CONTINUED — FORM OF THE ADMINISTRATIVE GOVERNMENT VITIOUS CONSTITUTION OF THE COURTS OF JUSTICE ECCLESIASTIC JURISDICTION ORPHAN- CHAMBER — SALARIES OF OFFICE CUSTOM-HOUSE RE- TURNS — CONTIGUOUS VILLAGES — CLIMATE. X HE laws in force in the Dutch colonies were moulded on the Roman or civil code, tempered and revised as the respec- tive governors and council thought fit, guided by local cir- cumstances and experience. The burghers, or inhabitants, have the chief appointment of the administrators of justice, through the body of keizers, who are their representatives, and are regularly elected for that purpose, by the planters and merchants. All those possessing twenty-five negroes are en- titled to a vote. There is no dissolution whatever of this body, but as fast as the members drop off, either by death or absence, notice is issued by the governor for electing others in their stead. This is done by sealed notes containing the votes, which are left at one of the public offices. The whole number of keizers consists of six only for each colony ; and when any vacancy takes place, the English party being the strongest, use L 2 TG STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE their influence In electing one of themselves, to maintain their majority in the college, as it is termed. A knowlege of the Dutch language is not necessary to obtain a seat in it. The governor is president of this body, with the privilege of a cast- ing vote. The province of the college not only extends to the appointment of members for the courts of police and justice ; but to the financial department of the colony, so far as regards the proper distribution of taxes raised for the internal improve- ments. It is similar, in some degree, to the British house of commons. The appointments in this college of keizers are not enough rotatory. So many proprietors speculate on re- turning eventually to Europe, that seats for life are neither coveted, nor natural. The number of keizers is too limited : they should bear some proportion to the number of estates under cultivation, and increase with the increase of voters. No doubt when peace returns, some uniform system of elect- ing the administrative bodies will be applied to the whole coast of Guyana ; in which the commercial interest, as well as the landed, will be allowed to take a due representative share. A court of justice, which consists of six members and the e'overnor, sits every other month at the court house, and de- cides on all causes laid before them according to the evidence produced. The ability of council on either side, has too fre- quently an opportunity of biassing the opinion of the court ; from the members not having received a regular judicial course XZr^-^ 'h-^--^ ' .<^^^/-^ ^ .^ovy^. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 77 of education, they are sometimes fatally deceived by design- ing aititices and quibbles in law, which, by litigious charac- ters, are considered as good posts of defence, or a fair channel for offensive operations. From the sentence of this court, there is, however, fortunately, an appeal to the mother country, either to their high mightinesses in Holland, or to the king in council in England, to which ever sovereignty the colony happens to owe its obedience. The commissary court has only three members, who meet every month to decide on small causes, for debts not exceed- ing six hundred guilders, or fifty pounds sterling, and for grant- ing licenses to parties intending to marry. Those, who ap- proach the altar of hymen, are principally people of color, who, in conformity with the laws, are obliged to receive per- mission from this ecclesiastical court, for which they pay the extravagant fee of one hundred and ten guilders. They are also obliged to have the intended marriage advertized in the colonial gazette. This form of marriage, though strictly bind- ing under the colonial law, seldom or ever satisfies without having recourse to a clergyman. An English gentleman, who was on the eve of marrying a Dutch lady, attempted to break through this law, and intended to be married according to the established form of the church of England ; when the vice-president of the court, fearing he should lose his fees, very charitably informed him, that, if he deviated in the least from the established rule, he would publish throughout the 78 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OP THE colony, their living in a state of inconlinency, and the illega- lity of the marriage. No persons are of age, or considered capable of acting for themselves, until they have attained the age of twenty-five ; at which time they are authorized to take possession of any estate, or legacy, left them. The laws do not admit of a par- tial division of property from parents to children, but an equal distribution is made among the whole — the younger claims, with the elder an equal portion. The weeskamer's office, or orphan-chamber, administers the affairs of orphans, and of those persons who die intestate. The appointment to this of- fice is a valuable one, and seems to be entirely overlooked by our ministers. The fiscal is the chief magistrate, public accuser, and at- torney-general, to prosecute in all cases for the sovereign. He has, beside a stipulated salary, a proportion of all fines he le- vies on the inhabitants, which is a discretionary power con- fided to him, whence there is no other appeal than to the court of justice, the expenses of which are so enormous as to induce appellants to forgo this method of redress in fa- vor of making a composition with the fiscal, who is gene- rally inclined to receive one-third in ready money, rather than throw it into the court, where the seeds of litigation are so completely sown, as to make it dubious when the whole would be recovered. From the preceding statement it will ne^ SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 79 cessarily occur, that the fiscal must be well versed in the Dutch laws ; he fills up that sort of place in our municipal constitu- tion, which is occupied by the recorder of an English corpora- tion. This appointment, exclusive of perquisites, is estimated at three thousand pounds yearly. The governor's salary is supposed to amount to - ^^,000 or jCS,000 That of the secretary, farmed to a deputy for 1,000 worth 3,000 Receiver of colonial taxes «| H'i 800 ditto 2,000 Receiver of king's dues - - - 500 ditto 1,500 Vendue master - -v^- - 1,000 ditto 3,000 Exploiteur ... i,000 ditto 3,000 Post master and naval officer, each - 800 ditto 2,000 Harbourmaster - - - 500 ditto 1,500 Collector and comptroller of customs, each 1,000 ditto 4,000 Beside these, are many subordinate offices in the customs and other departments. The salaries of the custom-house officers vary somewhat according to the exports and imports. The produce* cleared from the port of Demerary since the last establishment of the British custom-house, is thus recorded: From the 1st of October, 1803, to the 10th of September, 1804, in 394 vessels.— 19,638 hogsheads, 213 tierces, and 151 barrels of sugar; 4,887 puncheons of rum; 46,435 bales of cot- ton ; 9,954, 610 pounds of coffee; and 530 casks of melasses. * In the appendix will be found a-similar statement from the year 1745 to 1785. 80 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE From the 10th of September, ISO*, to the 5th of January, 1805, in 71 vessels. — 2,161 hogsheads, 78 tierces, and 19 barrels of sugar; 504 puncheons of rum ; 6,318 bales of cot- ton ; 439,520 pounds of coffee ; and 311 casks of melasses. From the 5th of January, 1805, to the 5th of January, 1806, in 200 vessels. — 15,839 hogsheads, 213 tierces, and 129 barrels of sugar ; 3,611 puncheons and 17 hogsheads of rum; 21,202 bales and 5 bags of cotton; 2,295,701 pounds of coffee; 1,687 casks of melasses. From the 5th of January, 1806, to the 5th of January, 1807, in 221 vessels. — 19,337 hogsheads, 474 tierces, and 801 barrels of sugar; 4,722 puncheons and 17 hogsheads of rum ; 23,604 bales and 2 bags of cotton ; 12,390,102 pounds of coffee; and 1694 casks of melasses. The conduct of the British government with regard to con- quered territory, is so strictly praiseworthy, as to require no other, commendation from me than to be held out as a contrast with that of our enemies. In the repeated instances in which the English have made themselves masters of these colonies, they have always respected the existing laws and private pro- perty. The persons of individuals have been held sacred, and colonial vessels, amounting at the last capture to between five and six hundred, were secured to their possessors; although as SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. '^1 floating property, they might in justice have been claimed by the captors. Kingston is an Enghsh village, contiguous to the Ibrt and camp, consisting of very neat and good houses, painted white, raised on brick foundations, and covered with wallaba shingles instead of tiles. Each house has an allotment of garden ground. This pretty little village first reared its head in April 1796. The officers of the garrison commenced it, since which it has been greatly increased in size and fame, and is become the residence of a number of professional men, and of merchants, who keep their counting-house injtlie metropolis, Stabroek, and retire here to enjoy the pleasures of relaxation, after the fatigue of business. Situated immediately at the mouth of the Demerary, it has a commanding view, and is quite open to the sea, whence the trade wind, here a regular north-east breeze, pours its refreshing coolness. The society is good of itself, and is enlarged from its adjacency to the camp, as officers with families, prefer residing here to the barracks. The garrison hospital is in this village. It is also noted for the residence of the only English clergyman in the colonies. Kingston, so called after the capital of Jamaica, is about a mile from Stabroek, and is approached on an excellent car- riage road, equal to the turnpikes in England ; so indeed are M 82 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE all the public roads throughout these colonies. The rent of houses in this village is from five to twenty pounds sterling per month. Since it has been built, the changes of its name have been as frequent as the sovereignty of the country. The Dutch, in the short time they reigned, having a perfect detes- tation against English names, and English things, called it Eveleary. On the British taking the country in 1803, it re- sumed its other name, which I hope will never be changed by any foreign power. The adjoining towns to this, are Labourgade and Cumings- burgh, the former are a range of warehouses, or a street, on the bank of the river, eminently situated for shipping pro- duce and landing goods. Several very valuable edifices have been raised here by British merchants for transacting their business with greater celerity. The stores are of consi- derable size, and mostly serve for the reception of a vessel's homeward-bound cargo. I was engaged in one instance which will prove their utility. The brig Convert, of 150 tons, and cargo, were insured to sail with the October 1800 con- voy, and only arriving about a week before it sailed, there was danger of forfeiting the insurance. However, with the greatest exertions, we got her inward-bound cargo out, and completely loaded her again with coffee and cotton, in sixty hours. This unprecedented exertion, however, would have proved fruitless, had not the produce been so conveniently stored on shore. SETtLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. ^ The most extensive of those warehouses belonging to a mercan- tile house of great celebrity, cost in building, between ten and fifteen thousand pounds sterling, and, when the colonies were ceded to the Dutch, were offered for sale at one half the original cost, and that in vain ; such was the decrease in Value of property. In the same street are two ship builder's yards, but the vessels built there do not exceed fifty tons. Cinningsburgh is situated directly at the back of Labourgade, separated from it by the public road and the Cumingsburgh navigable canal, which is brought from the river, and serves as the means for the merchants to land their goods. This town is two miles in circumference, and the most regularly arranged one of any. Its allotments are large and convenient, and sold on long building leases. There are six principal streets, and as many canals, with others of a smaller denomination thwarting the town. Over each canal are two large bridges for the passing and re-passing of horses and carriages. New buildings are erect- ing every day, and I am really at a loss to know where the inha- bitants come from to fill them ; as most of the planters reside on their estates. Indeed they all did until very lately, when some of the richer introduced the refinement of requiring town houses. A planter has a great facility in building ; after having made choice of a lot of land for his house ; his plantation affords him all the necessary tradesmen ; his bricklayer lays the foundation of the house, and builds the kitchen ; his car- M '2 -84 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE penters are employed in the woods in making the frame, which they put up, board in, and complete; he then pur- chases a few kegs of white lead and jugs of linseed oil, and sets his carpenters about paintmg it. Therefore, a planter with all these advantages, knocks up a snug little box in three or four weeks, without feeling the expence of it; while a mer- chant is obliged to go cap in hand to a master carpenter residing in Stabroek, "to know when it will be convenient for him to set about his house', and that he shall feel himself much obliged if he will do it immediately." These master carpenters are very high fellows, make exorbitant bills, and sometimes will not work without being paid before hand. On the whole, I cannot blame them; public carpenters are scarse; they, there- fore, like the rest of mankind, know and use their power. The same is true of the blacksmiths, millwrights, masons, coppersmiths, coach and harness makers, or repairers, saddlers, watchmakers, and goldsmiths. It is necessarily the case in all new countries, and as it is the natural order of things, and the cause of inviting fresh settlers, nothing should be urged against it. 'ill • Bridge town and New town, both built by the English, ■^ he between Stabroek and Labourgade; the former was built almost wholly by an individual, who, when the demand for houses was so great, made of it an advantageous speculation. It has, however, now degenerated, and is become the mere SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &CC. 85 residence of hucksters, coloured women, and a low race of y Creoles and barbadoans. The new town has four principal streets, and may be considered as the Cheapside of London in - epitome, for business, merchant's stores, retail shops, gold- smiths, watchmakers, hatters, apothecaries, slopsellers, segar- makers, and in fact, every thing is to be found here which can be purchased in the colony. On each side this town, which was also built by the British, are two canals, the banks of which, when the tide is up, appear like so many wharfs, completely strewed with English manufactured goods, in bales, casks, tiTinks, or boxes. Here the spirit of business is perceptible: the negroes, clad with blue trowsers and checked shirts, moving to and fro with alacrity, performing those of- fices, which a white man here and there distributed, dressed in nankeen pantaloons and a line calico shirt, directs from un- der an umbrella. Noon generally retards out-door business ; as the white men then escape into the house, and leave the negroes to themselves, who, thinking it a good maxim " like master like man," set themselves down to play cards, paupa, and other amusing games, for the love of which they are so distinguished. In this town there is a large wharf belonging to the mer- chants, called the American stclling, where small vessels are loaded and discharged. American vessels likewise come alongside to land their horses and cattle. On my first landing 86 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE I was much struck with the different shades of coloured people, ^ the mestee,* mulatto, -f- sambo,| and black. The foregoing towns are to the north-east of Stabroek, the ^ village or town of Werk en Rust, so called after the name of an estate to which the land formerly was attached, joins it to the south'West, and is the residence of a number of merchants in the American business ; it is not so well or regularly laid out as the others ; besides which, the burial-ground being here, which consists of ten acres, makes it unpleasant ; there are but few grave or tomb stones. Before cultivation extended itself, this part of the country was inundated with deluges of rain ; but the seasons, as the land was cleared, soon became more settled, and the rain less heavy. Two wet and two dry seasons complete the year: the former commences in December, and continues January and February, and June, July, and August ; the latter occupies the intervening months. In the rainy season the thermometer is generally lower than at other timies ; the land winds are also prevalent, which are esteemed unhealthy; and the number of mosquitoes which infest all buildings are extremely trouble- some, indeed, so much so, that the planter making a new 1* Between a white and mulatto. + Between a white and negress. X Between a mulatto and negress. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 87 estate is obliged to be half stifled with smoke to secure a night's rest. Their stings and singing noise are very disagree- able, and the remedy of smoaking them out is thought nearly as bad as the disease. How destructive to insect life is the burning of camphor, was first observed in Sweden : perhaps this, or some other, envenomed vapor, could be employed more eflficaciously than wood-smoak. The dry season may really be termed beautiful: a fine clear blue sky prevails throughout the day, which is seen making its appearance from the east between the hours of four and five ; for the morning twilight is gradual and long ; whereas in the evening the sun goes out at six instantly, as if covered with an extinguisher, leaving the country in sudden darkness. This striking difl'erence between the duration of the morning and evening twilight probably arises from the sun's rising over the sea, where the moist atmosphere is very refractive, and setting behind high mountains wliose shadow has definite limits. The greatest heat is from seven to ten, and is almost intole- rable. The sea-breeze then begins to set in, which restores to nature all her animation, and which blows with increasing spirit until dark, but decreases about ten at night. August is the commencement of the hurricane months in the West Indies : Guyana, however, is but little aft'ccted, ex- cept by heavy squalls of wind, which do no other injury 88 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE than blowing down a few acres of plaintain trees. Large ac- cumulations of clouds are now seen going to the southward — hollow peals of thunder are heard in the interior, and the day generally closes with faint flashes of lightning from the south and south-west. The length of the days are tliirteen hours, and from that to fourteen ; no other variation is perceptible throughout the year. Greater variety of climate is to be found here than is generally expected : the range of the thermometer on the sea- coast, in the dry season, which is esteemed the hottest, is from 84 to 90 ; and at the distance of twenty miles in the interior, the degree of heat seldom exceeds 80 in the warmest part of the day, and in the nights is generally as lew as 50 or 60. The mornings come in excessively cold, and with a heavy fall of dew, which, with the swamps and stagnated waters, makes the interior unhealthy to Europeans. The Indians, however, who inhabit these parts, from being accustomed to the soil, enjoy very good health, and are subject to few diseases. Many persons speak of this climate as unwholesome. I have not found it so. In my peregrinations by water to Essequebo and Berbice, which my occupation required, I have fre- quently been wet through three times within the twenty-four hours, and allowed the same cloaths to dry on me without feeling the least inconvenience: not that I recommend a simi- lar experiment to new arrivers, but, on the contrary, I was SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, hc. 89 obliged to submit to it through necessity. More depends on the management of ourselves than is generally supposed, and temperance is the soul of our existence. It is adviseable for persons going to the West Indies, to keep their bodies open by cooling medicines, and on their arrival, to be particularly shy of the night air and fogs, which are very unhealthy. It should also be remembered to keep as much out of the sun as possible ; too sudden or too lasting an exposure to it, brings on fevers, and other bad consequences. Some short time after my arrival in Demcrary, I went up the river on a visit with my friend to his brother's, who had a sugar estate fifteen miles from Stabroek. It happened to be a very warm day, and after our landing I was induced, though cautioned against it, to take a stroll about the planta- tion. On my return to the house, I felt a dizziness in my head, and a sickness at my stomach, my eyes rolled about with the most excrutiating pain, and my skin was burning hot. I had scarsely time to explain my situation, and express a wish of going to bed, before I fainted away, and was prevented falling on the floor by one of my friends, who caught me in his arms. On recovering somewhat, I found myself on a sofa, and many persons busied about me in applying harts- horn to my nostrils, and bathing my temples with brandy. I was now hurried to bed, and advised to take a composing draught. After the removal of my stupor, on enquiring into the nature N StO STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE of my complaint, I was informed it entirely arose from the ex- ercise I had taken in tlie sun-shine, which generally had the same effect on all new comers for the first few months, until custom, like second nature, had rendered them capable of bearing the rays of light. This circumstance I have given at full length, hoping it will act as a'caution to others; for the coup de soleil, though so frequent a disease, is not habitually foreseen and provided against. In reading over Dr. Pinckard's notes on Demerary, I observed in several instances, he complained of the unhealthiness of the climate, and especially at the Mahaica post, which is as fine a situation as any the colony affords, and is indeed frequently visited by convalescents for the benefit of the sea air. However, the cause of my wonder soon ceased, by his saying in another place that the soldiers were frequently employed by their officers at that post, to drag nets through the sea to catch fish for their mess, and were sent in open boats up the Creek for fresh water. The being thus exposed to the burning rays of the sun, before they were properly accustomed to the climate, accounts fully for their unhealthy state. And surely new troops but just arrived from England were not ca- pable of bearing a fatigue and exposure, which not even new negroes can always endure, though born nearly in a similar climate. On my first arrival, the necessity was suggested to me of making immediate application for medical assistance on SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C, 91 any feverish symptoms appearing, or on feeling the least in- disposed. In March, 1799, I had been actively employed in the morning receiving and taking account of several boat loads of goods, whicii were landing from a ship in the river, and very carelessly exposed myself to the sun without an um- brella. About four o'clock in the afternoon, I was taken very ill with a severe pain in my head, and accordingly went to bed. Dr. Dunkin, a man of superior medical talents, and physician to the garrison, attended me in the very friendly manner for which he is so noted, and entered into conversation with me as to the nature of my disease, of which he affected to make light. This conduct was certainly calculated to keep my spirits from drooping, and in fact had the desired effect. My disorder became a bilious fever, which was clearly vi- sible by my very sallow complexion, and the appearance of my eyes and tongue. I looked as if I was turning into a mu- latto. Emetics, purges, pills, and bark, were given me in due order, and after four days, I was pronounced to be out of danger, and removed for better air into the country. This was called my seasoning, and a more ardent attack of fever had not been experienced for some years by any one. This fact I think will clearly prove the necessity of imme- diate-recourse to medical aid, let the symptoms be ever so trivial ; mine was at first merely a head-ache, but if it had been suffered to have passed unnoticed that night, the result I think would have been fatal. I was soon after attacked by N 2 92 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE the prickly heat, which is a scarlet eruption; it causes a great deal of itching, but is considered as friendly to health. As persons of bilious habits are frequently assailed with a sickness at their stomachs, they ought to be very careful in their diet, and avoid every thing which is uneasy of digestion, or likely to create bile. A few drops of oil of orange, or of Stough- ton's bitters, taken in a glass of wine, are reputed to strengthen the stomach, and create an appetite. Good and sumptuous living is necessary here for the support of the system, and to supply the waste of strength occasioned by the daily ex- ertion and the incessant perspiration. Though only two meals are taken in a day, yet they will be found to exceed almost any four eaten in England. - The yaws is a most dreadful disorder. It has much the ap- pearance of the small pox from the manner of its coming out. The patient is covered with large ulcers in every part of his body and limbs, and, as it is very infectious, he keeps by himself. Its duration is uncertain, being sometimes from twelve to eighteen months, during which, the eruption re-, turns no less than three times. No effectual cure has, I be- lieve, ever been found for it. Salivation will drive it in, but sulphur, and other opening medicines, are now preferred, to indvice its coming out. Spare diet, with exercise, and na- ture's being left to herself, often prove the best resource. This SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 93 is a disease which a person can never have but once. I have seen only one instance of a white man's having it: therefore it appears almost peculiar to the negroes. There are black women who inoculate their children for this disorder ; its vio- lence is thereby lessened. The stings of musquitoes or gnats, I found very disagreeable, as they are succeeded by large red pimples, the scratching of which frequently occasions so many ulcers. These insects always attack new comers in preference to others. Lime juice and water is found to be the best preservative against their attacks, as also a cure for their stings : I used to bathe my hands and feet with it before going to bed. V The chigoe, or jigger, is a sort of flea harboured in the sand, that gets between the skin and the flesh, but oftener under the toe-nails, where in a short time it becomes as large as a pea, when it assumes the form of a bladder, in which are deposited many hundreds of eggs, that in the process of time come to so many young chigoes. But before they arrive at this state of maturity, a most intolerable itching is felt, which is the signal for extracting them. The negroes are very expert at doing it with a sharp-pointed penknife, and the great art is to lake out the bladder without breaking, when the cavity is filled up with tobacco-ash, or snuft'. Sand-flies are a very small but troublesome insect, scarcely larger tlian a pin's-head. ^^ STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE though their sting is nearly as severe as thart of mosquitoes, but not being quite so fleet they tire frequently killed in the attack. -A ringworm consists of long scarlet spots in dift'erent parts of the body, but they especially make their appearance about the face and neck, and may be prevented from extending, by an immediate application of lime-juice and gunpowder, which ■is ia very painful, but eftectiial remedy. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 9fS( CHAPTER V. STATE OF FARMING IN DEMERARY — CONDITION OP THE NEGRO PEASANTRY REFORMS SUGGESTED EXPEDIENCY OF THE SLAVE TRADE. I Had often occasion to repeat my visits to the liospitab|p proprietor of the Reynestein estate, and took a pleasure in exr amining the condition of the peasantry, and the nature of the agriculture. Previously to my leaving England, I had im- bibed prejudices against tiic negroes, and believed them ha- bitually embittered against their masters, and unfit to be trusted a moment; that a white man's life was always in danger, and that it was necessary to make every house a sort of fort, for the protection of its white inhabitants. But I found that the guardians of security and property were, the negroes themselves. During one of my visits on the Reynestein estate, I was astonished after dark by seeing several fires on diflferent parts of the estate: one before the dwelling, another at the wind- mill, and a third between the poultry house, and sheep pen ; which upon enquiry I learnt were made by the negro- 96 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE watchmen, who were appointed and stationed every night by the overseer in different directions, to prevent theft. — " All's well," was echoed from one to another, every half hour, lill the sound was indistinctly heard issuing from the remote plaintain-walk and provision-grounds, where its rever- beration at times seemed to die away. The door of the dwelling-house is always left open during the night, whicli leaves to the negroes a free ingress and egress to any of the apartments. The watchmen are responsible for every thing; and such is their attention and perseverance in their duty, that it rarely happens any thing is lost. The negroes de- light in a low schoolboy sort of drollery, of which an instance may be borne — it bears some analogy to Foote's praise of Calais — there the very children in petticoats can talk French. I one evening left the portico to light my segar at daddy Cudjo's fire, and to see how he was situated. I found him smoaking his pipe, and roasting some salted cod-fish and plaintains for his supper; he had in one hand a calabash of toddy, which he told me was given him by " dat buckra overseer." Upon my asking what toddy was, he uttered an ejaculation, " Kle ! massa, you no sabbc what dat be ? " Buckra been say neger fool because he no hab sense," (meaning that they could neitlier write nor read) " and you " here so, one buckra, ask mc, poor neger, who no hab " sense, what toddy be — why, massa, he no more than rum " and sugar mixed together with water." This tuition of a SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 97 white made all his companions laugh aloud. The poultry- house contained nearly a thousand head of feathered stock, consisting of chickens, turkics, and ducks, which were taken care of and reared by an old negress, whose sole time was de- dicated to that : she always counted them morning and night, and gave a tally to the overseer both times, with an account of deaths, losses, and increase, and a circumstantial list of all the laying hens, and of the number of eggs, which were delivered to the dairy-maid. There were only eight or ten sheep in the pen, which were fattened and made ready for the knife, previous to being sent from the sea-coast estate, where the body of the flock, consisting of one hundred and fifty, was kept, as they thrive much better on the saline than on the fresh land of the river. A regular account of these was delivered in, every evening, by the shepherd, as well as of the swine, by the pig-keeper, of which there were be- tween twenty and thirty: as they are apt to do considerable damage on sugar estates, these gentry were obliged to be con- fined to the stye. Instances are frequent of some escaping into the woods, where they live wild, and their increase has been immense. They are at chance times to be shot, which is the only way of taking them. The other stock which attracted my notice, were some goats, and between twenty and thirty head of cows : the former provide milk for coffee, the latter supply the family with butter; besides which, bub, or o 9S STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE milk punch, made under (he cow, is very much used. When there is a sufficient quantity immediately after the cows have calved, the young negro-children are regaled with a mess of milk each for their breakfast. Oxen are bred for the butchers, the gain arising from which, is generally sufficient to pay all colonial taxes. Rear- ing stock on an estate is here highly profitable, but more es- pecially horned cattle, and those planters who lay out a small proportion of their capital that way, and have good pasturage, find their account in it. I knew an instance of ten heifers being purchased out of a cargo brought from the Cape de Verd Islands; four died irrtmediately, the other six were grazed six months, and then sold for double the amount the original ten cost. There is little fear but these colonies will in a short time raise more stock of every kind than can possibly be used, which will be the means of making living considerably cheaper here, and of preparing a new source of supply for the West India islands. The fine savannahs in the interior, present a field for graziers which even North America can- not boast of. What is the case in the Orinoko ? Beef sells for three-halfpence per pound, and the cattle are allowed to run wild in the savannahs. Mules are already bred here in great abundance, and are the finest in the world ; nearly all the West Indies are hence supplied with those animals. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 99 But the great article o( cultivation is sugar. New land cleared of the bush is unfit to be immediately planted with the sugar-cane; it generally yields two or three crops of plane- tains in the first instance, which prepares the soil for sugar. The land is then laid out in ridges, something like the wheal fields in England ; and the cane plants, which are propa- gated by cuttings about six inches long, are then placed between two of these ridges, at regular distances, and lightly covered with earth. The sugar-cane comes to perfection in twelve, fourteen, or sixteen months, according to the soil or season, in which time the fields are weeded and cleaned three or four times. The average size of the cane at its full growth is nine feet long, and four or five inches in circumference. I have sometimes seen canes thirty feet in length and thick in proportion, but they do not make the best sugar ; the land which yields them is too rich; and it is a curious fact, that every crop of canes, for the first twenty-five years, improves successively, and yields a better quality of sugar. I have be- fore observed, that the canes are transported from the fields in flat-bottomed boats to the mills, where they are ground. The liquor extracted is received into a cistern, whence it is con- ducted by spouts to the boiling-house, a large building one hundred feet long and thirty feet wide, where it is received into a large copper, called the clarifier. It is next boiled, ahd all the skum and filth is taken off by copper skimmers. It is then tempered with lime, which gives it substance, and is o 2 100 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ladled into four other coppers, undergoing in each a thorough skimming and boiling. At length it is conveyed by a wooden gutter into the cooler, where it remains until it is about blood- warm, and is then put into the hogsheads in the curing-house, which is adjoining, and has in it a large platform, on a slope, capable of containing two hundred hogsheads of sugar. The molasses generally continue running from the sugar a fortnight after it is made. On the platform, or starling, are proper channels for conducting it into cisterns. Every sugar estate has its own negro coopers, who make tiie puncheons and hogsheads requisite for the rum and sugar. Mr. George Brumell informed me, that his coopers got the staves and hoops from the forests at the back of his own estate, but that most planters still imported them from North America. The materials used for making rum are molasses, skimmings, and water, which, after fermentation, are distilled. A plan- ter expects eighty gallons of rum for every hogshead of sugar which his estate produces, averaging about twelve hundred pounds. The rum made on a sugar estate is generally calcu- lated to pay all its expences. The distillation of rum has been carried to a high state of perfection, by the persevereance and skill of several scientific men, who have succeeded in making the Essequebo and De- merary rums as much in request, in the American market, as SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 101 that from Jamaica is in England. From the method of ma- nufacture, a richness of flavor adheres to them, which is sel- dom found in the island rums ; and I am convinced, when they are more known and noticed in these markets, they will be more esteemed. It was at first with the greatest difficulty the Americans could be induced to take the Demerary rum, as they were so much prejudiced in favor of the Jamaica, but at this time three-fourths of our rum is shipped to North Ame- rica, and in preference. The liqueurs manufactured in the French islands surpass, however, for delicacy of flavor, any of our efforts in distillery. The labors occasioned by the make of sugar are the hardest and most unpleasant to which the negroes are exposed : yet such toils would be laughed at by the workmen of an English foundery. When a negro is purchased, and attached to any estate, he acquires a right of settlement thereon. In sickness and in health, in his young and old age, he is alike treated, maintained, clothed, and lodged. Often have I contemplated with inexpressible pleasure, a grey-headed negro and his wife, sitting at the door of their cottage, fondly protecting and en- joying the active sports of their grand-children, while the parents have been engaged pursuing their respective occupa- tions in the fields. All the old settled estates can boast of having reared negroes of three and four generations ; but the mass of cultivated lands having been populated within the little 102 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE space of ten years, there does not appear on them an increase proportioned to the number of negroes in the colony. Great allowances must be made for new settlers — beginning with a small capital, their chief aim was to cultivate the land, not to increase the population : for that purpose they bought men- slaves, as being best adapted for clearing heavy forests of trees, digging trenches and drains, &c. That being done, they then turn their attention to the domestic wants of the men, and purchase a lot of women to supply them with wives ; each makes his choice, and the business is settled. The man works over hours, saves his money, and buys for his wife ex- tra articles of wearing apparel and finery. As a couple, they generally live happy, and are very tenacious of decorum ; but in the rare case of any inconstancy on the part of the female, a complaint is preferred to the manager, or pro- prietor of the estate, and a separation takes place, which gives to the parties a liberty to make another choice. Some negroes on my friend's estate, not being able to accommodate themselves from the collection of females already upon it, and desirous of having wives, were sent for to Stabroek, and taken to a sale-room, where a cargo of negroes was just landed, find there made choice of wives, which their master paid for. Two chose pretty women, and the third an ordinary one. On my asking him why he did not like a handsome wife, he re- plied, " No, massa, me no want wife for handsome, me want " him for do me good, and for work for massa as well as me." SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 103 She was a stout strong woman, and turned out much better than the other two. On the Reynestcin there are an unusual number of Creole children, which may be accounted for from the attention and care which are paid them in their infancy. I have seen eight or ten round their master's chair at breakfast or dinner, having their platters filled: there are generally some pets of the kind on every estate ; but this proprietor was particularly fond of the children, and used to enjoy their antic nakedness. Their sports agreeably recall the basso-relievos of antiquity. Children born in these regions are less helpless than in Europe: they display stronger symptoms of innate intelligence, and learn much earlier to take care of themselves. The nakedness, in which they are so long left, contributes no doubt to their acquiring a freer use of the limbs, and an earlier communica- tion of idea by gesture, A negro, in the enjoyment of social happiness, having his wife and children, a garden, his goats, pigs, and feathered stock to attend to, feels a degree of interest in the estate, which would scarcely be expected from an emigrated African. By be- ing transported to a new soil, and a more civilized country, these people become more humanized, more enlightened ; their minds undergo a new formation, and they are enabled to distinguish 104' STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE the good treatment they receive here, from the arbitrary and unrelenting mandates of the petty kings and princes in their own country, where they are subject to be butchered Uke a par- cel of swine. Better, sure, are the Africans under the West India planters, protected as they are by the colonial laws, transplanted into a settlement, where their industry and talents will make them useful members of the community, than abandoned to the cruel and rude tyranny of an uncivilized master in their own country. The severe methods of coer- cion, formerly used by the West Indian planters, are tra- ditional among the Africans, and resulted from employing negro task-masters. In proportion as white overseers have be- come numerous, has the treatment improved. During my residence in Demerary, I made it a regular question of en- quiry among plantation-negroes, whom I was constantly in the habit of seeing and conversing with at remote places, as my chief occupation consisted in travelling, whether they pre- ferred their own country to this; and I hereby make a solemn asseveration, which will remain upon record, that of several hundreds of negroes, to whom I have put the question at dif- ferent periods, they have all given the preference to their pre- sent situations. I will venture to assert, that, in case of asking all the negroes round in the colonies, there will be found ninety contents out of every hundred to whom the question shoujd be put. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 105 I discovered in a singular manner that one of the sailor ne- groes attached to our establishment, and who had been in Demerary about two years, had seen Mungo Park, in his travels in the interior of Africa. I was going down to Essc- quebo in the schooner, and, as was my custom, I had put three or four books into my portmanteau, Mungo Park's Travels was among the number ; in looking over the vo- cabulary of the Mandingo tongue, I called Peter, a negro of that nation, and asked him a question in his own lan- guage. " Kie ! massa, you sabbe talk me country," was the exclamation. I had now an opportunity of proving Mungo Park's correctness, and desired Peter to turn the question I had put to him into English, which he did, with several others, and from their agreeing with the translation, he convinced me that the travels in Africa deserved credit and confidence. However, to prove further, I told Peter what I was reading, when he replied with energy, " massa, me been " see that white man In me country, in de town where me " live, he been come dere one night for sleep, one blacksmith " countryman for me been with him, me been give him rice " for he supper, and soon, soon, in the morning he been go " towards the moor's country." From the earnest manner in which this artless tale was delivered, I was convinced that Peter had seen Mungo Park, the name of the village, and the reception he met with, agreed so exactly with what was nar- rated, that there could be no doubt of it. p lOff STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE It will be a source of gratification to every philanthropic heart to know, that the greatest evil which the negroes la- boured under, in our continental establishments, is nearly, and will in a short time be completely eradicated : I mean the painful punishments : the inflicting of tortures by the rab rack, and the severe floggings with a cart whip. Only one instance of the former has been known since the colonies became British in 1196, and that was authorized by the Dutch laws 710W in force, which are very severe in that respect. A negro had murdered his master, and was accordingly ap- prehended and given over to the law ; upon his trial he was found guilty, and acknowledged his crime. He was sen- N /tenced to the rab rack, a horrid machine, with recesses made for the principal joints to be placed in, upon which the crimi- nals are laid out and extended, when they are broken alive by iron bars, and left in that state to linger out a miserable ex- istence, till some one has the humanity to put an end to it. On the day of execution. Governor Beaujon, sent to the commandant of the troops, Lieut.-Colonel Heslop, now ge- neral and governor of Trinidad, for a file of soldiers, as a guard to keep in awe the populace. To this gentleman's honor be it remembered, that he resisted the application, and returned an answer similar to this : " That as long as he com- " manded a British soldier, he would never allow him to be " present at such an inhuman execution; but that any asslst- " ance which the mlUtary could give to the civil government> SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 107 " consistently witli the honor and dignity of the army, should " not be withheld." This spirited and manly reply to the go- vernor's requisition, shewed at once the disapprobation which the British government entertained for such horrid and cruel treatment of criminals, and lias hitlierto prevented a repetition of them. I assert with confidence and satisfaction, that there is not so much flogging on a West India plantation, as there is obliged to be on board our men of war, with the cat of nine tails, to preserve order. The planters feel an interest in exciting emd- lation among the negroes, and in encouraging them to set ex- amples of industry and order, to the newly imported. It is worthy of remark, that the old seasoned people look with a degree of scorn on the new negroes, because they cannot "talk buckra," and are not so clever and so active as they are, or so familiarized with the customs and manners of their white masters. It was formerly thought necessary for the preserva- tion of good discipline on estates, to correct negroes for every fault which was committed, and the driver's whip was conti- nually cracking to excite fear, and stimulate the poor wretches to work. Different measures have since been adopted, of which experience fully authorizes a continuance, both from the salutary etfect which they have had on the negroes, and from their being more congenial to the feelings of Bri- tish subjects ; who, though they have been stigmatized by p 2 108 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE the appellation of men dealers, have yet retained those in- nate principles of humanity and virtue, which induce them to seek every opportunity and occasion to ameliorate the situa- tion of their dependants. Faults are now corrected and punishments inflicted by personal deprivations, according to the extent of the misdemeanor ; instead of being flogged, the negroes are debarred their daily portion of rum, or their weekly allowance of tobacco, and in case of the crime being of such importance as to require a severer punishment, they are confined on the Sunday in the stocks, and prevented en- joying the company of their friends, or forbid from joining in the merry dance, which takes place every Saturday night on the estates. If the cook spoils the soup, which was intended for his master's dinner, he is made to eat it, warmly peppered with cayenne. Other domestics acting with impropriety, are sometimes confined, at other times obliged to eat an ounce of Glauber's salts, or to sip them with a tea spoon when dissolved in half a pint of water. This manner of inflicting punish- ments is more rational than any hitherto adopted, and as long as the negroes are stimulated with a degree of pride and emu- lation, it will continue to have the desired eflisct. An important and a grievous regulation is the non admis- sion of servile evidence in the courts of justice. AVhy should not negroes be heard against whites, as well as whites against negroes ? Veracity is indeed not a conspicuous virtije of the SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 109 blacks ; they usually make you put a question twice, in order to gain time for framing an answer such as they wish to give ; they hold it no obligation to answer truly. Still their testi- mony should be heard, and compared with circumstances and with other evidence, until it is duly sifted, and appre- ciated at its probable worth. I am convinced that it would be a useful reform in the jurisprudence of the colonies, to confer on all the shades of complexion an equality of criminal rights. In the islands, the right of inheritance enjoyed by mulattoes is limited to two thousand pounds currency, so that a father cannot provide liberally for his offspring by a negro concubine; no such unjust limitation, as far as I have heard, is included in the Dutch code. Nor is it alone in the West Indies that negroes require a further degree of legal protection. A friend of mine brought over to this country a negro servant: he landed at Portsmouth, and left Quamin on board the ship to come round to London, to meet him there. AVe had had a tedious voyage of eleven weeks from Tortola, the last place we touched at, and the general rendezvous for the homeward-bound fleets from the West Indies. Poor Quamin was heartily tired of this long, disagreeable, and dan- gerous passage, and was anxiously wishing to get on shore, to see a country, to use his own language, " where every body been free, and nobody hab massa." Contrary winds detained the ship longer at Spithead than was wished for. In the mean 110 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE time she was frequently boarded by men of war's boats, the first of which, after overhauhng the crew, as they term it, and finding them all foreigners with proper protections, being rather chagrined at their disappointment, and not liking to return empty handed as they came, right or wrong, deter- mined upon seizing poor blacky. Notwithstanding the assevera- tions of the master and crew, that he was a servant belonging to one of the passengers who had landed at Portsmouth, this poor African, who had been on board a ship thirteen weeks from Demerary, and was counting on the pleasures which he had been taught by the crew to expect in England, was in- humanely dragged away, taken on board one of his majesty's ships, and carried a winter's cruize to the north seas, desti- tute of any cloathing at all suitable to the climate he was compelled to visit. By an application to the Admiralty, aided with considerable interest, a discharge was obtained for him on the vessel's return, when Quamiu had again the plea- sure of rejoining his master. I saw him a few weeks after, in London. He asked me when I was going to Demerary again, and begged me to request his master would let him go with me, as he did not like England. Notwithstanding here he had a horse to ride, and in Demerary, if his master was going a journey of a hundred miles, Quamin would have to follow him on foot with the portmanteau on his head, he preferred Demerary. The horse and fine living had no charms for him ; yonder he was protected — yonder he was free. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. Ijl The planter, when he purchases negroes out of a cargo, is very careful in what is called the seasoning; they require nearly as much attention as children. Before they are put on to an estate, they have a pair of trovvsers, a shirt, jacket, and hat given them ; and it is really laughable to see the gro- tesque appearance they make when dressed up in their new cloaths. They affect to think so meanly of them, that it is often with the utmost difficulty they are induced to keep them : not that they have been used to better, or even to so good, cloath- ing, but they imagine it gives them consequence, and makes them pass for gentlemen, to affect to despise cloathing, such as is not worn by people in authority. The only thing which is held in estimation by them is a blanket, which is always given them in the first instance to sleep on, until they get a bed. These are mostly stuffed with plantain leaves, as being much cooler than feather beds. Others prefer hammocks, which are made of cotton bagging, similar to those used by our sailors. On their arrival at the plantation for which they were purchased, they are put under the charge of the nurse, who provides food, pipes and tobacco, and every other requi- site to give them confidence in their new situation. They are thus encouraged, until they become acquainted with the place and people, when they are employed in trifling jobs about the buildings, until they get a little seasoned to the climate, and become acquainted with the economy of the estate. It is then customary to place them under the care of old negroes, each 112 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE taking one, whom he makes his servant, and teaches how to dress his food, and to provide for his wants. From that time they turn out with the gang, and are instructed, by the persons they respectively live with, to work, which is gradu- ally done, and soon becomes familiar, as most of them were slaves in their own country, where they were accustomed to harder toil and less regular meals. The plantation bell rings at nine o'clock for breakfast, for which they have an hour allowed ; at one o'clock they come in for their dinner, and have an hour and a quarter ; at sun set tliey return from work, and enjoy themselves at home, with a pipe and their supper, which is a negro's favorite meal. Besides necessary food, the weekly allowance of rum is about a quart, and the weekly allowance of tobacco two pounds ; so that the utmost degree of luxury and accommodation, consistent with sobriety, is willingly promoted. The seasoned negroes keep fowls, pigs, goats, and grow gardenstuff; the tradesmen employ their spare time in making those articles of their several trades which they can sell to advantage. At the close of life they often keep a retale shop. It is by no means an uncommon thing in these colonies, for negroes when they have accumulated a sufficiency, to pur- chase their freedom ; and I have known many instances of negroes, who payed their owners a proportion of the pur- chase money, and were allowed after emancipation to work SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, ivc. 113 out the balance. The generality of negroes prefer deco- rating their persons to purcliasing their freedom. I have known many negroes who were fond of hoarding up their money, and at their deaths, have left considerable sums; one old woman on a sugar estate, in Essequebo, died possessed of nearly three hundred pounds sterling, which she had acquired merely from raising feathered stock. It consisted principally of joes, dollars, and small change, and was equally distributed between her children, which she had left on the estate. In general every plantation is visited three times a week by a surgeon, who mostly agrees at two dollars a head yearly to farm the health of the whole population : for this he attends all the sick negroes, and furnishes the requisite medicines. The whites, who require much oftener the interference of the medical practitioner, are often farmed at forty dollars each.* * I have visited several islands in the West Indies, Grenada, Saint Kitt's, Tortola, &c. the condition of the negro peasantry is every where comfortable, as far as I have observed, and is fairly described in the following letter from Mr. William Finlayson, of Jamaica. " I had opportunities of visiting the neighbouring estates in the vicinity of my uncle's, being mostly penns, and cotton plantations ; the work was light and easy, and I found the proprietors and tlie white people they employed, kind and indulgent to the negroes. They found it their interest, as well as inclina- tion, to treat the negroes well, and make them comfortable. Q ll* STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE The Europeans are a conceited people. They read ; and they fancy that every thing can be known from books. They " They turned out to work a little before sunrise, had half an hour to break- fast and two hours to dinner ; the days are generally twelve hours long, as the sun rises and sets with very little variation through the year at six o'clock ; and one English labourer would do as much as three of them. " They had each a lot of land, and a sufficient time allowed to plant provi- sions, and clean their ground. They have two or three crops of corn in some parts in the year ; and abundance of plantains, which, when established, with a little care in keeping them clear from weeds, will continue bearing for twenty years, and are a good, wholesome, substantial food. They raise potatoes, of which there are six or seven different sorts, all very good food, and several sorts of yams, which weigh from five pounds to fifty pounds weight, toyas, or cocoas, several kind, as monkey, black, two good, Otaheite and white cocoa, the middle leaves of the last eat like spinnage, and the roots better than English potatoes ; sweet and bitter casava, the latter they grate and press out the juice, which is poison, the flour is made into cakes, the same way nearly that oat-cakes are made, and eat much better. They had good comfortable houses to dwell in, and reared pigs and abundance of poultry. Each family had a garden, well stocked with pease, beans, of which there are a vast variety, and some will bear for a number of years ; plenty of greens, pine apples, melons, pome- granates, pumpkins, sour sops, sweet sops, and numerous other fruits, and growed a good deal of tobacco, and oil nuts, which they make the castor oil from. I assert it was customary then, I am speaking of twenty-one years ago, for a negro to sell provisions, garden stuff, tobacco, &c. out of his own grounds, to a greater amount than the generality of the journeymen labourer's or mechanic's wages in England, Scotland, and Ireland. And I no where saw such wretched outcasts as our beggars, and poorer sort of people in England, SETTLEMENTS OK THE DEMERARY, &C. 115 undervalue observation, experience, practical talent of every kind. They listen to metaphysical politicians, who without having visited the West Indies, or knowing at all the nature of the people, and of the properties there, think they can direct the tropical planter how best to cultivate, and the as- sembly of Jamaica how best to legislate. By such vain au- thors, the English people have been goaded into petitioning their legislature for an abolition of the slave-trade. It is the Scotland, and Ireland. The old are taken care of by the proprietor, and are never suffered to want ; they are found in clothes, salt, salted fish, and her- rings ; a doctor regularly attends the sick. " The negro women have great attention paid to them in tlieir lying-in — a proper nurse and midwife attends them, and every thing that is necessary is supplied them from the estate — they do not work for four weeks afterwards, and have nurses to attend tliem and wash for them during that period. They then turn out to light work considerably later than the other negroes, and have nurses to attend the children ; and notwitlistandlng this care and atten- tion, the children very often die on or before the ninth day, of the lock-jaw. Twenty shillings reward is allowed by the assembly of Jamaica for every child born, and raised upon the estate; and many of the liberal-minded benevo- lent overseers give this money among the nurses, midwives, &c. as an en- couragement. No negro is ever allowed to work in the rain, — and a book- keeper is some years upon trial before he is entrusted with the management of an estate, and if he is passionate and cross to the negroes, no person will em- ploy liim. The negroes value very high, some 2001. to 3001. some even 4001. The murder of a slave is felony without benefit of clergy." Q2 116 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE trade In free negroes which alone they ought to abolish. The slave-trade is a universal benefit. Piracies and kidnapping take place on the coast of Africa. The grumetas, or free labourers there, and even persons of a higher rank, are sometimes carried off by the force, or fraud, of the negro crimps. I have by me a piece of Arabic writ- ing, executed by a negro in the colony. I doubt not he was a man of education and consequence in his native country. He was a very clever, sensible man. In his own country he was free, and said his father was a king. His owners, who were planters in Berbice, elevated him to a confidential situ- ation on their estate; and he never in the five years that he had been with them when I left the colony, either betrayed their confidence or forfeited their esteem. He was superior to the general run of Africans, and more communicative. Al- though in his own country he was high in rank, he avowedly preferred his residence in Berbice. This fraudulent enthral- ment is a horrible injustice, best to be met by establishing a strong police at the English factories in Africa ; and compel- ling the slave-vessels to account for their passengers. The seizing of free blacks, and reducing them to slavery is detest- able oppression. As well might the people of Hayti come and kidnap the merchants of Stabroek ; and sell them for labourers on the Ohio, where the back-settlers begin to buy indentured whites. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &rc. 117 But the great mass of negroes purchased in Africa, are already skives at home, most miserable slaves, the slaves of savages, 1 hey are born, bred in slavery ; they have felt, they have known no other lot. Like beasts of burden, they have been used to be sold, worked, flogged any-how ; to be coupled at the owner's pleasure with his cast-off concubines ; to be tortured for witchcraft when he is sick ; to be maimed for his quarrels when he is in heroics ; to be left during dis- ease, wounds, or age, to dry into a mummy in the desert ; or to be recompensed for exemplary fidelity by being butchered on a master's grave. Of this last usage, the high price given for negroes, has in some degree, occasioned the abolition. The transfer of such wretches from Africa to America, is a Teal service. I have conversed with hundreds of negroes, who all consider it as such. Our imported slaves almost uni- versally acknowledge that they have not worse work to do than at home ; and that they are better provided with food, with luxuries and indulgences, than in Africa. Their treat- ment is improved by the removal : the lash indeed is still used, as on board ship, to stimulate labor ; but torture, witch-craft, and above all, the despair of bettering their condition, are among the evils withdrawn. Nor is it in Africa only that black slave-owners are the harsher masters. Even a freed negro has so much less humanity of nature than a European, that throughout the AVcst Indies, it is an efficient threat, 118 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE employed to tame the disobedient slave, angrily to say: " Damn you, I'll sell you to a black." If in imitation of those pious Spanish brotherhoods, who collected funds for the ransom of captives, Mr. Wilberforce, and his fellow-friends of humanity, were to form societies for the redemption of slaves, they would soon find it to be a duty to expend their treasure on the coast of Africa. There, languish the most unfortunate of the venal negroes. There, ought to be exerted the first efforts of their far-aimed benefi- cence. They would select, for priority of emancipation, those, who are likely to live longest and to suffer most. The aged have something of habit that extenuates their woes, and something of prejudice against the very remedy. Women every where incur a mitigated oppression. The feelings of lust are akin to kindness, and always operate in alleviation of exactions. The young and the male therefore ought prefer- ably to be bought loose. Men can be had cheapest where they are worst off. Hence, the Liverpool merchants, from motives of a more natural and more worldly kind than could influence a Wilberforce, do thus employ, on the African coast, in the purchase of young males chiefly, a larger fund than would be collected for the same purpose by the utmost zeal of christian charity. They redeem annually 36,000 slaves. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, liC. 119 It is not of the original orderly purchase of these people, but of their subsequent destination, that philanthropy has to be jealous. From a country, where if they stayed, the parents, or elder brothers, or princes, who sold them, would seize and sell them again, they must clearly be removed ; but this with every practicable care for their health and accommodation. The act of parliament which regulated the transportation of negroes, the carrying-trade bill, was an eminently useful law. Nor is it at all less applicable to the trade in natural-born white bond- slaves, conducted from many parts of Scotland,* of Ireland, * " As the same principles of profit regulated every voyage, the circum- stances attending each were in general extremely similar : in some perhaps the inconvenience was less than in others ; but the following statement, taken from a judicial proceeding before the court of session relative to a ship that carried passengers from the isle of Sky to Carolina in 1*791, is selected both for its publicity and authenticity. * The vessel was about 270 tons burden— * the number of passengers about 400, including women and children, so that * their situation was most uncomfortable and dangerous, there being hardly ' room for them to stretch themselves. There were three tiers of beds fore * and aft, and two midship. The births for a full passenger were 18 inches * broad. ITiose fore and aft were only about 2 feet high, including the space * occupied by bedding, so that it was scarcely possible to creep into them. ' The others were a little higher, so tliat the passenger could turn himself on ' his side, and rest on his elbow. To add to their calamities, they neither * had a sufficiency of victuals nor proper cooking utensils, there being only * two pots of twenty-four pints each, which were quite inadequate to the pre- * paration in any reasonable time of a meal for 400 persons. Had tlic ves- * scl made out its voyage, the chief part of the people must have been con- 120 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE and of Wales, with North America, than to the trade in alien blacks. md An aholition of the African slave-trade, such as has hitherto been solicited, would in fact operate merely as a repeal of this wholesome humane law. The small ships, which now execute the smuggling trade of the West Indies, and which alternately visit the British islands, the Spanish main, and the coast of North America, under any flag best suited for the protection of their immediate purpose, would in that case undertake the slave trade. Colony-craft would supersede the regular vessels. These ships have not dimensions for accommodating pas- sengers in the becoming manner required by the British act of parliament : so that the old horrors of the middle passage would all return. The manner of removing out of Africa the ' sumed by disease and filth, which last was honible ; but after being twelve ' days at sea, the ship was dismasted and put back to Greenock, where many ' of the passengers, especially children, died from the effects of the short * voyage they had made." This white slave-trade is conducted under the cover of the laws concerning apprenticeship. The white bond-slave is indentured for seven years to the captain of the passage-vessel, who, on arriving in Nortli America, sells his apprentices at the market-price, and makes over his indentures to the several purchasers. But as the selling-price does not always produce the passage- money, a claim of debt against tlie apprentice bearing interest, accompanies the indenture ; and thus his servitude is prolonged at pleasure, under pretence of working out tliis debt. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, iScC 121 slaves bought there, is no longer susceptible of much improve- ment ; but is in danger of grievous deterioration by whatever tends to shift the commerce into bottoms not subject to the parliamentary regulation. I still suppose Mr. Wilberforce, and the friends of the blacks, formed into a brotherhood of mercy, and redeeming in Africa, the greatest objects of pity, with a view to provide for their future well-being. I suppose the method of removal acqui- esced in, and the place of destination, to be under discussion. These gentlemen would next be desirous of landing their young charges in the countries where labor has the highest value ; where moderate industry would secure them a better condition than they quitted ; where civil rights are conferred by settlement ; and where tutors are provided for the arts of life, who would attentively teach such occupations as may secure not merely their subsistence, but their well-being, not merely an immediate supply of their wants, but a permanent employ, and a progressive independence. Are there any such countries ? Nearly so. Where is this poor man's paradise ? I answer — where the greatest bounty is paid for the importation of men, where human ware sells highest at a slave-auction. In all under-peopled countries men bear a price. It was so, under the patriarchs ; so, in the Grecian and in the early R 122 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Roman world ; so, in the northern and middle parts of mo- ERBICE river lies in N. latitude 6 deg. 20 m. and 57 deg. 20 m. west longitude from London. Its stream at the mouth is a mile and a half broad, and in the centre is an island called Crab Island. A bar of sand five miles without the river, running from east to west, prevents vessels drawing more than fourteen feet from entering the river ; this navigation is more dangerous than that of the Demerary, from the obstructions to it being of sand. On this account few vessels rendezvous here, but make the port of Demerary their anchorage, whence the Supplies from the mother country are transported in co- Y 2 164; STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE lony schooners, and the produce shipped in return is con- veyed to the vessels through the same medium. Berbice, by the old boundary, is bounded on the east by the Devil's Creek, and on the west by Abarry Creek, which se- parates that colony from Demerary. The river Berbice is shallow, but broad ; nearly an hundred plantations have been formed on its banks. The directors of the colony obtain from it chiefly sugar. It also supplies cotton, coffee, cocoa, tobacco, and a dying stuff called rokou. The goods carried thither are the same as those traded with in the rest of the West Indies. The Dutch laid the foundations of this colony in the begin- ning of the last century. About the year 162^, one Vaq Peere, of Flushing, began to send thither ships, which car- ried out Europeans, who staid there to trade with the In- dians, and collect produce. By the year 1690, this colony was so far increased that the French, who made a hostile landing, could levy a contribution of 20,000 florins. This co- lony was comprehended in the charter of the Dutch West India Company; but in 1678, arrangement was made with the family of Van Peere, who were in fact the founders and proprietors, by which it was granted to them as a perpetual and hereditary fief. This grant was confirmed in 1703, and was respected until 1712, when a flotilla of French priva- teers, under the command of one Cassard, went to attack the SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 165 settlement. Baron Mouars commanded the troops who were landed, and who agreed for a contribution of 300,000 florins ; which was eventually discharged by the house of Van Hoorn and Co. to whom the family Van Peere ceded three-fourths of the concern, under this condition. The Van Hoorn company having become masters of the colony, applied to the Dutch East India Company for leave to import slaves from Asia : this was not conceded ; but an agreement took place to furnish annually, from the 10th of September, 1714, the number of 240 negroes, from the coast of Angola or Ardra, one third of them to be females. For these slaves the Van Hoorn Company were to allow 165 flo- rins a-head. If a larger number of negroes became requisite, these were to be paid for at the rate of 250 florins a-head. The proprietors of the colony were to have the liberty of selling off their lands and slaves at pleasure ; and were to levy 300 florins on every vessel that should go to Berbice. These proprietors were apparently in a great degree success- ful ; they extended the cultivation of sugar, of cocoa, and of indigo ; they searched for mines, and invited settlers. They then proposed to raise a capital of 3,200,000 florins in 1600 shares, payable in eight instalments, of which the last was to fall due on the 1st of April 1724-. For this sum the lands of the Van Hoorn Company were to be thrown into a sort of common 166 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OP THE Stock, and cultivated at a joint expence ; the shipping, the warehouses, the revenues of the custom-house, the produce was all to be the property of the share-holders, and a dividend commensurate with the annual profit was to be made. The actual proprietors were to receive, in lieu of any indemnity or purchase-money, a number of shares proportioned to their oc- cupations: thus they would become interested, it was supposed, in promoting the prosperity of the concern, and in raising its dividends continually. About 1,882,000 florins were thus raised and vested ; dividends, which never exceeded three or four per cent, were made ; and at length the shares fell from 2000 to 200 florins, and were chiefly bought in by the set- tlers, as titles requisite to the integrity of their property. A garrison of about 200 men was kept there before the penultimate war ; but the colony, says the Abb6 Raynal,. was nevertheless scarcely in a condition to resist the crew of an enterprising privateer. In Holland, the colony of Berblce is administered by seven directors, who are chosen by and from among the share-hol- ders. They receive a salary yearly of 200 florins; and give in their accounts to an annual meeting of proprietors, who name auditors. A secretary and two book-keepers suffice for the business of the concern at Amsterdam. On the spot things are conducted much as in Surinam. "^ ' SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 167 The principal articles on which the revenues of the colony are levied, are a capitation tax on the white and black inhabi- tants, an excise on every fifty pounds of sugar made, a weigh- age toll of about two per cent, on all imports and exports, and a tonnage duty of three florins per last on the burden of ships. The directors have undertaken to erect fortifications on the Isle of Crabs; and have ordered, that to every fifteen negroes there should be one white. They grant passports to such in- habitants of Holland as desire to trade to Berbice, with the condition that for thirty florins a-head any passenger-colonists, recommended by the directors, shall be received on board, and if under twelve years of age, for half price. From the land adjacent to the sea being so very low and marshy, the first settlers of this colony went fifty miles up the river, where they built a town and fortress, which they called Zealandica. As population began to increase, and cultivation extended itself, the inconvenience of being so far from the river's mouth, presented itself in various forms ; large vessels found a difficulty in working up the crooked course of the river ; the projecting points of mud from the irregularity of the stream, occasioned vessels to ground, where they some- times were obliged to lay until the rising of the spring tides floated them oft. Thus situated, and with a view of inducing vessels from Europe, with cargoes for Berbice, to anchor di- 16S STATISTICAL ACJOUNT OF THE rectly in the river, instead of going to Demerary, the seat of government was removed within a mile of the mouth of the river. New Amsterdam, the name of the town, as built on the south side of Canje river, running in that direction up the banks of the Berbice a mile and a half, with the houses facing the water. The Dutch in laying out this town, paid every at- tention to health and convenience; each allotment appears an island within itself; the ditches, or trenches, round the houses fill and empty themselves every tide, by which means all the filth and dirt is carried off before it has time to stagnate, or oc- casion unhealthy sensations. Each lot is a quarter of an acre of land, separated as before-mentioned from the adjoining one ; which not only leaves a free circulation of air, but al- lows to every house a kitchen-garden, which produces vegeta- bles sufficient for the family. The houses are different from those of Stabroek, in this respect, they are not more than a story and a half high, very long and narrow, with galleries on either side for the purpose of walking and smoaking in the shade : they are mostly covered with troolie and plantain leaves, a species of thatch, in preference to shingles, as being considered so much cooler; but the quantity of vermin and insects which they harbour does away every other consideration with Englishmen, whose houses in New Amsterdam may be distinguished by being shingled. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, iVc. 1^9 The government house and attached buildings are laid out in a splendid manner, they are of brick, and built in the Eu- ropean style ; for architectural magnificence in Guyana, they are most noticed ; yet even these are not perfect. The eye and the taste are both insulted on looking at this fine pile of buildings from the river: at the water's edge, in a line directly opposite the house and not twenty yards from it, is a boat builder's yard ; so that his excellency and family, when going over the river to visit his estates, are obliged to wade through a group of negroes at work, a heap of cliips, boiling pitch pots and many other delicate etcaeteras to .embarjc on board the yatcht. The colonial offices, namely, the fiscal's, receiver's, and secretary's, are situated behind the government house, and are all built of brick. There are two taverns in New Amsterdam, both of which have billiard tables ; at one of them is a tabic d'hote daily for the convenience of travellers passing through the town, or planters from the country ; this house also affords accommo- dation for slinging hammocks. I have had mine slung without the least ceremony in the same room with a Dutch surgeon and his wife, who slept in separ^t? hammocks, and the only partition between us consisted of a piece of thin cotton bag- ging extended from the sides of the room, reaching half way up to the cieling. I was not aware of this arrangement until I was conducted to my chamber, when I recognised the voices z 170 STATISTlCAIf ACCOUNT OF THE of the Dutch lady and gentleman I had dined with at the or- dinary: we each exchanged a polite 'goednagt' before going to sleep. In the morning after breakfast I called for my bill, and as it may be a novelty I insert it. Playing six games of billiards, 10 st. 3 A glass of sangaree 1 10 A bunch of segars 1 Dinner - - 5 10 Wine - . - . 2 Two cups of coffee, 5 st. 10 Billiards in the evening 1 10 Sangaree, 2 glasses 3 Slinging your hammock 3 Two cups of coffee in the morning 10 Breakfast - - _ 3 Cleaning boots ' - i 10 G.25 Twenty-five gilders is 21. Is. 8d. sterling ; so much for the tavern expences of little more than two meals at an ordinary. The eager hospitality of this country soon placed me in a pri- vate house, beyond the reach of such imposing charges. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 171 The fortilications are of no great import ; fort St. Andrew and a small battery, guard the entrance of the river on the cast side ; and York redoubt on the opposite or west bank. There are two entrances into the river, one on each side of Crab Island, which is reserved by the colonial government for erecting a fort, that will completely command the pas- sage into the river, and from being an island, will be easier and much better defended than the present fort. Crab Island is about two miles in circumference, and might be made a very defensible post ; but that would not avail much, as what- ever the fate of Demerary is, that of Berbice must be the same, from their being so contiguous; the former once in pos- session of any power, would soon over-run the latter by troops, which could march overland ; the convenient ferries stationed at all the creeks and rivers for the passage of horses and car- riages, would afford a conveyance to any force sent for that purpose, and although the sovereignty of the colony might be for a while contested in the strong holds and fortresses, it could not last long, the very nature of the situation would oblige the garrison to surrender, or be starved out. For these and other obvious reasons, Berbice has regularly capitulated to the British, after Demerary had surrendered. The same field for speculators and adventurers presented itself here as in the other colonies. The west coast was first put in cultivation, and in 1799 that to the eastward of the z 2 172 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE liver, as far as the Devil's Creek, attracted notice, and was quickly transformed from a heavy impenetrable forest to a field of cotton trees. This coast was surveyed, and was cut into two parallel lines of estates with a navigable canal between the two lines for the convenience of water carriage; behind this second row of estates, runs the stream of the river Canje, the banks of which on both sides are cultivated with sugar, coffee, and plantains. The estates are thus denominated ; that line facing the sea, are the coast estates, the second line the canal estates, and the other are the Canje. This is a fine river, and navigable for colony schooners, thirty miles up ; it runs nearly in an easterly direction; at the head of it are immense falls and cataracts; about forty miles below these is a creek which connects itself with the Couran- tine, through which overland dispatches are brought from Su- rinam by the Indians: no Europeans have, as far As I could learn, ever attempted this lonely track ; its ways are long and intricate, and known to few ; there are many creeks to cross, for which purpose the Indians travel with a light canoe, which they carry on their shoulders, and which is launched without any trouble as occasion requires. When the colonies are formally ceded to Great Britain by peace, communications from Surinam will soon be opened with tliese settlements, and if regular mails and stage coaches should follow, I shall not be surprised. Indeed the opening of a regular communication SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 173 witli Paramaribo, by establishing a ferry over the Courantine, and expending labor on the present rude path, or by digging a canal and establishing drag-schuyts, is a point of the utmost importance to accelerate the improvement of all these colonies. Paramaribo has long been populous ; the division of labor is carried farther there than it can be in our newer towns ; many of the arts of refinement and luxury are already practiced, and would soon carry their accommodations along the road from the metropolis. There is a redundant population, which would come to the relief of our wants, and by setting at liberty a part of the artificers, would supply new cultivators of the ground. I exhort the administrative bodies to complete the road from Stabroek through New Amsterdam to Paramaribo. In the Canje are several very fine estates, one of which I visited, a coffee plantation that had been in cultivation forty years. The coffee is a beautiful evergreen, which usually rises to a height of nine or ten feet on a smooth grey stem five or six inches diameter. The leaves resemble those of the bay- tree ; the flowers those of the jessamin. When the white and fragrant blossoms drop oft', they leave a small fruit behind, which is green at first, then red, and which contains two seeds, or kernels, called coffee. The fruit is gathered by shaking the tree, is received on mats and laid to dry in the sun, after which operation the husk becomes suflSciently brittle to be crushed with a v\'ooden roller and separated by sifting. 174 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE The husk has much of the flavor of the kernel ; an infusion is made with it which the slaves drink. Coffee plantation* have usually a pleasing garden-like and picturesque appearance : none more conspicuously so than that on which I had to stop. It belonged to a Dutchman ; every thing appeared in the greatest order ; the dwelling-house, an elegant brick mansion, stood in the midst of a garden, which the occupier took the greatest delight in; even the negro cottages were built on brick foundations, neatly boarded and covered in with shingles. Many grey headed negroes worn with age and labor, were inmates of these comfortable abodes; they had retired from the busy scenes of life to take care of their poultry, while their sons and daughters wielded the shovel and the hoe. Be- fore these huts were several groupes, consisting of between forty and fifty negro children, who with sportive playfulness, were passing the time away until the dinner bell should bring their parents from the fields. Well pleased with this scene, I could not resist the worthy proprietor's invitation of dining with him, though we had never seen each other before ; our segars and sangaree pre- vious to dinner, gave to conversation, the appearance of a long standing friendship: we interchanged our ideas respect- ing the slave trade and the treatment of negroes, though he was of the old school, he agreed with me. 1 compli- mented him on the order and arrangement of his negro SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY kc. 175 houses, and the number of children on the estate, as a cer- tain proof of his humanity ; I observed that the aged and grey headed negroes I had seen in the cottages, proved that he had treated them well in their young days, and now that they were past labor, he provided for them with the careful hand of a kind protector, it gave the most indelible test of his being a worthy man. He said he had been in the colony up- wards of forty years, all of which time had been bestowed upon negroes ; he had been a proprietor thirty years, he was not affluent, but he underwent personal deprivations to render his negroes comfortable, whose claims he considered prefer- able to his own ; thinking and acting as he did, he was a gainer, his negroes were happy and contented, their work was done with ease and his estate improved, the produce of that begot a second and a third, " should I not then be a villain to " discard or ill treat my negroes now they are old and past " labor. Ko ! no ! my friend, I have learnt that humanity " is the best policy, and in the end will produce riches." Our sentiments being so congenial it was late ere I parted from this worthy Dutchman. Having walked from New Amster- dam, my kind host insisted on my taking his tent boat, which was accordingly manned for the purpose, and I arrived in town at nine o'clock at night, highly gratified with my trip, and pleased with the business which introduced mc to such a character in a Dutchman. 176 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE The negro population of Berbice is doubled within the last ten years, principally owing to importations of the English merchants and planters, who had extended their concerns and cultivation of the vacant lands. It amounts to about forty thousand souls ; one thousand free people of colour, and two thousand five hundred whites. Deprived of the means of aug- nienting the population of negroes by importation, it has beeri clearly proved that an average decrement takes place of two per cent per annum, unaided by any other disorders than those which are common to the colonies ; the small pock, the yel- low fever, or a scarcity,* such as to render a change of diet necessary, are circumstances which will make the deaths ten per cent instead of two. Situated then as these colonies are, it would be almost utter destruction to them to incur an immediate abolition of the slave trade. It must be gradual, a series of years must be al- lowed for effecting this important object, and proportioning the sexes. Before such a step is taken, the questions for and against it should be canvassed on all sides, and in every form. * The scarcity of colonial provision in 1803, obliged the planters to feed the negroes on flour, rice, and maize, which disagreed with them so much, tliat many of them died of dysenteries and other complaints. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 177 The colonies in Guyana, independently of supplies they have received from Africa, are daily getting more negroes from the West India islands, some of which being nearly worn out from long cultivation, the proprietors of estates there find it very diffi- cult and expensive to make them produce what they used to do. Circumstanced as they are, working on a withered soil, they are certainly justified in abandoning that land for better in Guyana, where there is such an extensive choice. The natural consequence we are to expect from such a procedure in the course of time is the total abandonment of the barren islands for the more fertile soil of the continent. The islands I allude to are Curasso, Eustatia, Saba, St. Martins, Tortola, Tobago, Grenada, and St. Vincent, which will be either partially or wholly forsaken in a few years. When I was at Tortola in 1805, there was neither"^ garrison to defend it, nor a governor to govern it ; therefore it is visibly enough seen that the then ministry did not think the revenue or value of it would war- rant the expence of maintaining a regular establishment there. Barbadoes is declining fast in its revenue and productions, but its situation being to windward of all the other islands, and having a good bay, makes it a most desirable place to be re- tained by our government. It is now the head quarters for the commander in chief, and Carlisle bay affords a secure an- chorage for the navy on the station. But the planters of Bar- badoes have as much capital employed in the colonies on the continent, as they have actually in Barbadoes; this certainly is A a 178 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE a Strange assertion to make, but it is no less trdc, and will always be the case while Guyana presents such a boundless track of country to cultivate ; indeed I have no hesitation in saying that Demerary owes its present situation and importance to Barbadoes. The planters from that island first emigrated with their negroes, and their rapid successes were an induce- ment for other islands to follow the example. The English planters having so much capital employed there, with other circumstances, was the inducement for the British to take it in 1796, which fully completed what had been so ably begun ; the English merchants, struck with the advantages offered them by the capture of the colonies, spared no pains to form establishments and extend cultivation, which eventually raised them to the rank they now hold. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 179 CHAPTER IX. BERBICE, A DISTINCT COLONY VAN BATENBURG NOT A POPULAR GOVERNOR — -BOUNDARY OF BERBICE EXTENDED IN 1799, BY HIS MANAGEMENT MUTINY OF THE DUTCH TROOPS DURING THE AUTHOR's STAY ARMAMENT OF THE INDIANS IN BEHALF OF THE INHABITANTS. T, HE government of Berbice is separate from that of Esse- quebo and Demerary ; this appeared to be a fact unknown to General Grinfield and Sir Samuel Hood, in September 1803, when they demanded, in their summons to his excellency the governor of Essequebo and Demerary, the surrender of Ber- bice, which he was incapable of granting. In 1796, when the colony capitulated to the British, his excellency Abraham Van Batenburg, was retained in his government, until the co- lony was surrendered to the Batavian troops by the peace of Amiens, when he, as an English governor, of course resigned the reins to a provisional government, consisting of two members of the court of police. The Batavian government not having sent an ostensible governor in the establishment intended for Berbice, report named several persons who were Aa2 180 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE to be appointed to the office, it was indeed mentioned that Mr. Van Batenburg, the late governor, was to be reinstated ; he certainly took his departure from the colony for Holland, and took England in his way, where the commencement of hostilities obliged him to remain. Information having reached England that the colonies were again in the possession of the British, it appeared as if the ihtes determined Mr. Van Batenburg to be a governor; for he, though a Dutchman, was appointed governor of Berbice, an English colony ! ! Being provided witli powers from the court of St. James, and a commission under his Majesty's sign manual, he arrived in Berbice and displaced Lieut.-Col. Ni- cholson, who was appointed for the interim by the commanders of the expedition to whom the colonies surrendered. By the laws of Great Britain, no foreigner can be placed in any os- tensible place under government, or appointed governor of any colony, island, place, or any of its dependencies ; this was a stretch however of the Addingtonian power, which was also put in force at Demerary, by sending Mr. Beaujon there, another foreigner, as governor. Though the government of Berbice is separate from that of Essequebo and Demerary, the code of laws is the same, with some exceptions as to general rules. Governor Van Ba- tenburg, after he was returned to the government of Berbice SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, ScC. 181 by the British ministry, has in several instances exceeded his powers, in such a manner as to induce the colonists to come to resolutions and present a memorial to his majesty, setting forth their grievances ; they also appointed agents in London to carry these measures into execution. The charges pre- ferred were these : Depriving the colonists of their right and franchise, by an arbitrary dismissal of two members of the court, and appoint- ing others in their stead, without taking the voice of the in- habitants : Making new laws and regulations respecting the port of Berbice without taking the advice of the court of police, which deprived the merchants and planters from sending their pro- duce to Demerary to be shipped for England, or employed for the discharge of such debts as they might contract in Stabroek for supplies and plantation stores, which could not be procured in Berbice ; thereby causing considerable dissatisfaction and jealousy between the two colonies, and an absolute check to receiving farther supplies : Irregularly administratring the property belonging by capture to the crown of Great Britain, making a mal-appropriation of the proceeds, and converting the labor of the colony negroes to individual advantage, leaving the colonial business undone. 182 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE and the fortifications almost untenable and incapable of de- fence at a time when the combined squadrons were in these seas. Various other charges were brought against Governor Van Batenburg, which are stated in the resolutions. The meetings of the colonists were held at one of the taverns in New Amsterdam, which, by the unjustifiable mandates of the said governor, was thereupon closed, thus depriving an industrious man of the only means he had of obtaining a live- hhood. No other pretext was given for this proceeding, than that the tavern keeper refused obeying his excellency's order for not permitting any seditious meetings at his house. Ano- ther step which the governor took to harrass and exert his power over the planters, was to make an immediate demand upon them for " acre geldt" viz. acre money, to the levy of which the recent extension of boundary had in no small de- gree augmented his rights. When Surinam capitulated to the British in August 1799, his excellency. Governor Van Batenburg, went there to nego- tiate with Governor Frederici, respecting the land between the Devil's Creek and the Courantine; and on his return he made the result known, which was, that Surinam had conceded to Berbice the track of country between the Devil's Creek and the river Courantine. This addition of territory was a favour- able circumstance for Berbice. The sea coast extending nearly SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 183 fifty miles, and the west bank of the Courantlne were immedi- ately surveyed and laid out into regular allotments : and though grants could not be obtained for them from Holland, and the British government would not interfere in them, the governor and court of police gave sufficient recommendations, or provi- sional grants, which induced speculators and adventurers to commence their labors. Carriage roads were now made, and communications were opened with the Courantine, the west bank of which river soon participated in the cultivation of the sea coast ; the former in coffee and plantations, and the latter in cotton. Nothing was now wanting to proceed to Surinam by land, but the same active exertions on that side the Courantine, which the Berbice planters had manifested on their part. British capital, industry, and perseverance, had accom- plished in eight years, what would not have been done by any other means in half a century. They had populated and brought into an useful state, a track of country which appeared by nature attached to the sea, a low marshy sea coast, covered with overgrown timber and underwood, and inundated by every rising tide, was now transformed into a colony, bestow- ing riches on its founders and support to several thousand in-* dividuals. The extent of this land, stolen, if I may use the term, from the sea, is one hundred and fifty miles, be- tween the Demerary and Courantine. Carriage roads were 184 STATISTICAL ACCOUKT OF THE made upon it sixty feet broad, with six-foot parapets on each side for the convenience of traveUing. The exertions of the British on the Essequebo and Poma- Toon coasts, met with equal eventual success, but the con- sequences were not so rapid ; they had to contend against many local inconveniences which the Berbiceans had not. During 1803, when Berbice was in possession of the Bata- vian Republic, and under the provisional government : the Dutch troops garrisoned there, felt all the miseries which bad food, bad barracks, bad pay, and bad medical attendance could possibly impose : the ravages made on them by the climate aided by the other circumstances, rendered their situa- tion indeed deplorable, even worse than that of the troops in Demerary. Remonstrances followed each other without avail, they were disregarded and treated with neglect. A party was even made among the officers ; some sided with the claims of the men, others with the commanding officer. The neglect of the government, and the unrelenting mandates of Col. Mat- thias, their commandant, soon bred contempt; and an utter dis- respect to orders was followed by a mutiny, which obliged the commandant and a few followers, to evacuate fort St. An- drew, and take possession of the government house, which was fortified ; from this post they were obliged to retreat pre- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 185 clpitately to York redoubt, on the opposite side of the river, whence dispatches were sent to Demerary and Surinam, with an account of their situation. The soldiery at Demerary were little better inclined, from their horrid treatment, than the mutineers; however, a hundred men, all that could be trusted, were sent to Berbice, under the command of Major Vaji Hamers, to co-operate with those at York redoubt. The mu- tineers were headed by one of their own captains, who impru- dently, rather than wisely, joined them, with a view of ob- taining by force, a redress of their grievances ; they behaved uncommonly well to all the colonists, especially the English; the provisional governors were put under an arrest, and the centinel who was placed over them, having allowed them to escape, was immediately shot by the mutineers. They hoisted an English jack at the fort, with a piece of beef placed on the head of the flag staff, and sent a deputation to a respectable English planter, to request he would take the government of the colony on himself, and that the troops would enter into the British ser\'ice, and defend the colony, until forces could arrive from Barbadoes to take possession ; these offers were of course mildly rejected, they however received the thanks of many individuals for their conduct to the inhabitants, which was uniformly good. Important business called me to Berbice at this time, and on the 7th May, 1803, having provided myself with a pass- Bb 186 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE port, I embarked on board a sloop belonging to a free negro, called La Rose. At six o'clock in the morning, the tide answered, there was a little wind, but the stream of the De- merary soon swept us outside the mouth of the river, where we caught a breeze from the N. E. which continued all day. I retired into the cabin, where I amused myself with smoaking and reading till evening. I then went on deck to enjoy the refreshing breeze, and about eleven P. M. discovered the river Berbice, we immediately shaped our course for the west en- trance of the river, to get under the protection of the York redoubt, when we were boarded by a boat from the Serpent Batavian schooner of war, who took a pilot from us to bring in some vessels outside the bar from Surinam, with troops on board, soon after that we were brought to by a gun from the battery, who ordered to anchor at the ferry, and not go over to New Amsterdam, as the insurgents fired at every boat that crossed. I was of course happy to be under any protection, being the only white man on board the sloop, and therefore landed at the ferry at Mynheer D'Hanckars ; before my ser- vant could bring my portmanteau and writing desk on shore, the vessel, with all her hands, were pressed to convey troops from the vessels outside the bar to this place. Mynheer D'Hanckar's I found was the head quarters of Col. Matthias and officers. Major Van Hamers too and the troops from Demerary were also here, and mustering thus early, two o'clock in the morning, in order to cross the river to attack SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 18T the fort. A council of war was sitting to determine on the propriety of this measure without waiting for the co-operation of the Surinam forces; Major Van Hamers and the officers under him were impatient for an immediate attack, that their troops might have the honor of queUing the insurrection, thinking no doubt that news of troops having arrived from Surinam, would be sufficient to induce the mutineers to sur- render to an inferior force. Before day light, therefore, the troops from Demerary were embarked on board the Ser- pent, which got under weigh at five A. M. the wind was against their getting over, and exposed them to a galling fire from the mutineers, directed from the government house and fort St. Andrew. In tacking too close in shore on the west side the river, the Serpent grounded, and was obliged to remain un- til the flood made, when she floated, and was joined by two co- lony schooners with troops from the Surinam vessels. During the whole of this day (8th May) a continual fire was kept up between the two forts. The fire from the mutineers was ill di- rected, and the guns of York redoubt fell short in their dis- tance, therefore no harm was done by this sort of warfare. At four P. M. the vessels got underweigh to make another attempt on the town and government house; they were obliged to edge up the river to keep out of gun shot reach, which were fired without intermission by the mutineers, they how- ever effected a landing above New Amsterdam. Bb2 188 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Government house was evacuated, and the insurgents re- treated across the Canje ; they were pursued by a party of the Surinam troops, when a partial engagement took place ; the troops crossed the Canje, but were soon obliged to retreat, the mutineers having extended themselves on both sides the road in a field of cotton, fired upon them from their place of am- bush, as a company of riflemen ; several were wounded and one life lost ; none of the insurgents, as it appeared afterwards, were hurt in this aifray. The 9th of May was employed in collecting the remainder of the forces from Surinam, and the evening was the appointed time for making an attack on the fort; the Serpent was to attempt a landing of troops on the side next the river, while a strong body was to attack it on the land side ; little doubt was entertained for the success of this plan. The following morning, Captain Van Evers com- manding the troops from Surinam, very politely offered me a conveyance across the river in his boat, which I accepted ; we were obliged to land a considerable way above New Amster- dam, to keep out of reach of the shot which were flying in all directions from the fort; they were evidently intended against the post at government house, but the artillery was so ill directed, that many of them went into the town, and others obliged the vessels and boats in the river to slip their cables. The burghers were called out to preserve the peace of the town, and two large ships were pressed for the service as prison ships. I was amused by a very novel scene, about two SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, kc. 189 o'clock, which was the arrival of forty canoes in New Am- sterdam, full of Indians; they consisted of upwards of four hundred, and had been collected in different parts of the river by their respective chiefs, to protect the town and assist the inhabitants to regain possession of the fort. On their landing, they were regularly ranged under their respective chieftains, the canoes were disincumbered of their provisions, and hauled up above high water mark. They were then conducted in separate bodies to outhouses and other buildings, which were lent them for quarters. It is needless to say they were well received and accommodated by the inhabitants with every ne- cessary, which to their wild uncultivated taste was luxury. The appearance of these naked warriors was indeed singular. 1 have before remarked, that the Indians are low in stature, stout, well made, with long black hair, and strings of beads round their ancles and wrists, the only covering in point of dress is a piece of blue India salempores, except the captains or heads of a clan, who are distinguished by a European suit of cloaths, and the hereditary or acquired staff of office. Their bows were slung at their backs, accompanied with a quiver full of poisoned arrows, and another pointed at the end with steel like javelins; in their hands they carried a club about two feet long, considerably larger at one end than the other, the edges are made so very sharp, and the wood being of tlie hardest kind, that a blow, aimed by a person who knows 190 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE the use of these weapons, is sufficient not only to stun, but to kill a man on the spot. The Dutch have always been attentive to conciliate the In- dians. About the year 1770, General Desalve sent over to Europe from Berbice, an Indian youth, named Weekee, who resided for education at Bergen-op-zoom. He was taught at his own request, to be something of a tailor, and something of a cook, imagining he could then provide, after the European manner, for his back and for his belly. But finding himself, with all his acquirements, no nearer the obtainal of cloth and food, he ceased to value these dexterities. After a year or two, he expressed a longing desire to return to the colony, and was no sooner landed on the shores of Guyana, than he stripped oft' his European incumbrances, and returned to his native woods, where he ended his days as he began them, among the beloved companions of his youth, in nakedness, idleness, and freedom. Had this lad been apprenticed to a carpenter, or a blacksmith, it is probable he would have found both the means and motive to have used his acquirements at home : these are the mechanic arts which first station them- selves among savages, and which become the causes of the succeeding steps in civilization. The policy of the British government is much to be com- mended for following the practice of the Dutch, in keeping SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 191 up the alliance with so faithful and so useful a body a men, at least to the welfare of these colonies, as the Indians are. They are always ready to take the field, and are the foremost to check any disturbance of the negroes, they are also an im- pediment to their desertion, and from their peregrinations in the interior, and on the borders of the European settlements, are the means of preserving many misguided wretches, who in attempting to leave their masters, would find the worst of deaths in an almost impenetrable forest — that occasioned by hunger. The expence of maintaining a good understanding with our Indian allies, is very trifling ; a few hundred pounds in the course of a year, invested in fowling pieces, gun powder, knives, hatchets, felling axes, glass beads, India salempores, and rum, is sufficient. And the presenting of these things to the chieftains, occasions a demand for them among the people. The principal articles we buy of the native Indians are, balsam capivi, bees wax, letter wood, bows and arrows, canoes, hammocks, monkies, parrots and parroquets, cassa- repo, Indian houses in epitome, and any similar curiosities they bring from the interior. In return for which they re- ceive fish hooks, looking glasses, blue and striped cottons, India bafts, corals, and the abovementioned wares. 192 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE A company of soldiers who had taken post at the mouth of Canje river, was attacked by a party of the mutineers, who having covered themselves in some underwood and bushes, obliged the troops to retire, with the loss of one killed and two wounded. During the afternoon of the lOth May, several of the insurgents from the fort surrendered themselves prisoners, and in the evening a proposition was sent to surrender the fort, on conditions which were however refused. Just as the troops were forming themselves to make arrangements for the attack, another courier arrived to say, that the mutineers would give themselves up as prisoners, and stand their trials by court mar- tial. This was accordingly acceded to, and upwards of three hundred men surrendered, only five of whom were found guilty on their trials, and shot. The captain, who commanded the insurgents, could not be tried in the colony, but was sent to Holland for that purpose, where he was found guilty and executed. The Indian auxiliaries were gratified by presents of cutlery, were hospitably entertained, and contentedly dis- missed. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 193 CHAPTER X. FORMER SERVICES OF THE INDIANS TO THE COLONY ON THE BERBICE INCIPIENT SETTLEMENTS ON THE ABARY, THE MAHAICONY, AND ESPECIALLY THE MAHAICA SALUBRITY OF THAT SETTLEMENT PROFITS OF COTTON- PLANTING SHOCK OF AN EARTHQUAKE ACCOUNTED FOR PROGRESS OF SETTLEMENT ON THE RIVER POMA- ROON ON THE CAPOYA CREEK RAPID INCREASE OF AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE. A HIS late occasion is far from being the only one in which the Caribbees have testified a strong predilection for the planters on the Berbice, and for the general interests of subor- dination. In the year 1763 an insurrection happened among the slaves of this colony, who rebelled to the amount of several thousands, and massacred a considerable number of tlie white inhabitants, while the rest fled to fort Nassau, where, fearing their communication with the sea coast might be obstructed, the then governor, by the advice of his council, precipitately blew up the fort, and retired, with the white inhabitants, on c c 194- STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE board several merchant ships in the river, and sailed to its en- trance, there to wait for assistance from abroad. This retreat left the rebels in undisturbed possession of the whole colony, and threw the inhabitants of the neighbouring colonies, par- ticularly of Demerary and Essequebo, into the utmost conster- nation, as they were the most contiguous to Berbicc, and ap- prehended a visit from the rebels, which must have been at- tended with the most unhappy consequences, as their own slaves were at least five times more numerous than the white inhabitants, and betrayed so eager a disposition for revolting, that it was feared they would not have patience to wait for as- sistance from their brethren in Berbice. In this critical situation, however, they experienced the ad- vantage of their connection with the subjects of Great Britain, as at this time a ship of war, belonging to Gedney Clarke, Esq. collector of his majesty's customs at Barbadoes, which had been put into commission by Admiral Douglas, and was commanded by a lieutenant of the British navy, arrived with a company of marines, and anotlier of soldiers, raised at the expence of Mr. Clarke, who was proprietor of several planta- tions in Demerary, as were several other gentlemen of Bar- badoes. This armament effectually frustrated the rebellious designs of the slaves in Demerary. and the civil dissentions among the rebels of Berbice diverted them from their intended visit. In the interim, however, the governor of Berbice re- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 195 C€ived a body of soldiers from Surinam, and several armed vessels from the islands of Curasso and St. Eustatia, with which he sailed up the river, and took possession of the Dauger-head, a large plantation belonging to the West India company, where he maintained himself till the arrival of an armament from Holland; when the rebels were soon driven into the woods, whence hunger, and the arrows of the In- dians, obliged them to return, and seek an asylum in their former slavery. Several hundred of the chief promoters of this insurrection were however burnt, or broke on the wheel, with all the various species of cruelty for which the Dutch were then notorious. Before this, however, several hundreds of the Carribbee Indians were, by the governor of Essequebo and Demerary, engaged to take up arms against the rebels, whom they not a little harrassed, concealing them- selves in the woods by day, and setting fire to their houses in the night, by shooting arrows fired at the point among the troolies, with which they were thatched, and then killing the negroes as they fled out in confusion. The Indians have a sincere dislike and contempt for the v/ blacks ; considering them apparently as an inferior race, born, like cattle, to labour for the service of their betters. Of the rights of intellect to exert control, they have an instinctive conviction ; and are still less scrupulous than the Europeans, about the means of maintaining ascendancy. With them, c c 2 196 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE tenderness begins where fear ends ; there is in all their affec- tions, a something of contempt ; it is extended to women, to children, to the young, rarely to the adult. They are grate- ful to the most punctilious honor ; but like people, who feel an obligation as an indignity, and who, being defied to an emulation of good offices, wish to surpass in them. A white planter, in this district, who showed hospitality to a travelling Indian family, of which the woman happened to lie in at his house, was called on a year after by the husband, and pre- sented with a beautiful female slave, the booty of a remote campaign. The negroes, on the contrary, have a something fawning in their affection, like men who solicit and not who vouchsafe protection. Between the Berbice and the Dcmerary, there are three small rivers, the Abary, the Mahaicony, so called from the ma- hogany trees on its banks, and the Mahaica, which has l6ng had a reputation for peculiar salubrity. Military posts have been established there, to which sick soldiers were transferred; strangers attacked with the seasoning, were sent thither for re- covery. Experience still supports this character for whole- someness; and it begins to be considered as an expedient luxury to have a villa on the Mahaica, whither to retire in case of the yellow fever, or other contagion, entering the pro- vince. Thus a considerable settlement has been formed. The village of Mahaica is situated on a small river of that name. SETTLEMENTS OK THE DEMERARY, &C. 197 thirty miles east of Stabroek ; it takes its course from that of Demerary, and empties itself into the sea ; it is navigable for colony craft twenty miles up, the banks on each side are under cultivation in coffee, cotton, and sugar ; the entrance and bar of this river is very dangerous, and cannot be crossed at low ebb. A inilitary post and captain's guard is stationed at the mouth of the river. The ferry and its environs are pleasantly situated. There is in the neighbourhood, a great deal ot wood, well adapted for ship-building : and many ship-car- penters are constantly on the spot and at work : but as the sand-banks, at the mouth of the stream, debar exit or entrance to large ships, no considerable constructions can here be com- pleted, and launched with effect. The circumstance of many married families having settled here, makes the society stand high, and indeed unrivalled by any other part of the colonies. Continual parties of pleasure, attended by military music, under- take excursions up the river, sometimes hand-fireworks are ex- hibited on the water, and every amusement calculated to please, is offered by the hospitable inhabitants of Alahaica, to render their visitors happy. I never enjoyed more than here, the lux- ury of a tropical night, after a heat and glare almost intolerable. A brisk sea-breeze still blew, bringing with the murmurs the coolness of the spray. We ordered our cane chairs under the orange trees, our segars and sangaree ; and sat basking in the moonlight and the wind — turning toward the refreshing air — admiring the beautiful serenity of the dark-blue sky — the 198 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE brightness of the stars distinct at the very horizon — the planet Venus casting a sensible shadow — the moon so luminous as to read by — and the thousands of fire-flies hovering about the shrubs, or shaken in sparkling showers from the boughs. The faces of the negroes gladden — the sprawling groupes begin to quench their pipes, to talk, to stir, to laugh, to sing — they are proposing the dance, and will shortly surround our contemplative repose, with the spectacle of graceful activity and cheering enjoyment ; their postures are more lascivious than would be thought decent in F,iirope. From the ferry a navigable canal is cut, which runs about eight miles up the coast, parallel with the sea, where it is met by another leading from Mahaicony Creek ; these canals af- ford considerable advantage to the planters, both in drainage and conveyance of produce and plantation stores, to and from the different harbours or shipping places; though almost every estate has a canal large enough for the reception of a boat, yet there is a degree of danger sometimes attending their getting in ; a contrary wind or rough sea are obstacles fre- quently thrown in their way ; if this plan of inland carriage was adopted throughoiit the colonies, it would be highly be- neficial, and might be the means of preventing so many of the colony schooners, that sail coastways, from being taken by the piccaroon boats and privateers from the Orinoko, which are fitted out in time of war. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 199 A merchant, in the commencement of 1799, knowing that he should require a large parcel of cotton to ship, of the ensuing crop, made engagements with a planter of Mahaica, to give him two thousand five hundred pounds for the crop of his estate, taking upon himself the risk of its being more or less. The average production for the last two or three years, did not exceed twenty thousand weight, which made it evidently a risk for the purchaser. However, the goodness of the season, soon recompensed him, and before two months of the crop time was expired, a larger quantity of cotton was picked than was necessary to pay the purchase money. By considerable attention and assiduity in hiring and giving rewards to the negroes for their exertions, and by complimenting the manager with half a pipe of win,e, a larger crop was made than the most sanguine expectation could have suggested. It amounted to sixty thousand weight, and gave a profit to the purchaser of six thousand pounds sterling. This fortunate hit, with others of a similar sort, which extended themselves throughout the co- lonies, gave an additional zest to cotton planting, many of the planters of that article were enabled to pay off their encum- brances, and retired to live in England on the produce of their estates. Hence it is said, that one good crop in five, makes a cotton planter's fortune. These circumstances, combined, certainly tended to increase the cultivation of cotton, and 200 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE were the means of inducing more settlers and speculators to reside among us. A shock arising from an earthquake at a considerable dis- tance toward the interior, was felt here, and at Stabroek, on the loth of December, 1802. It was still more sensible along the Essequebo, but not at all in the Berbice : so that it must have come from a south-west direction, and have nearly spent itself. These shocks are not unfrequent, but they seldom do harm in the flat country. They seem to arise from some ef- forts in the land to lift itself higher, and to grow upwards; for the land is constantly pushing the sea (which of course must retain the same level) to a greater distance ; the inundations of the interior are less frequent, the tides extend less far, and the coast estates, as they are called, become inland property. The incessant eftbrts of crystallization thrusting its innumerable wedges under the foundations of the mountains, or some other less obvious fossil processes, may cause this gradual elevation of whole continents. The area of lifted land, in order to fill, at a higher level, the surface of globe which it formerly co- vered, must diverge, and crack into perpendicular fissures. This operation seems to be the cause of earthquake, and is universally accompanied, as far as I can learn, with the in- gulphment or absorption of large quantities of water, and sometimes with the subsidence of the sides of the fissures. This SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 201 constant shooting upwards of the land, which is so sensible in the West Indies, has been little heeded by European mine- ralogists. The mineralogy of Guyana is a subject still less investigated. It cannot be doubted that, within water-carriage of our settle- ments, there must be lime-stone rocks : lime, or rather its ma- terial, has been so profusely scattered by nature, that it forms the basis of the exterior hills in almost all ridges of mountains. Yet we import, from Europe, the lime, which we use in the sugar manufactory. How vast an economy would result from providing and burning it at home. The very shells on our coast would supply the requisite quantity of lime, if it were tliought worth while to collect and to burn them. But it seems to be the inleutiou of nature that every people should have something to fetch from a distance, in order to unite, by the ties of commerce, the distant quarters of the world. Agriculture still offers a boundless and a profitable field of em- ployment ; the other arts are seldom domesticated, until a su- perfluous population begins to become inquisitive for the means of earning a subsistence. The high price of land on the east coast of Demerary had advanced so much, as soon induced adventurers, with a small capital, to seek for other lands at a distance from Stabroek, which from that circumstance could be purchased at a much Dd 202 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE lower price; an extensive range of sea coast to the westward " of Essequebo, called the Arabische Coast, and Pomaroon river, and the coast contiguous to it, presented themselves as eligible situations for cultivation, and accordingly a number of adventurers found settlements there, which are at this time held in as high estimation for the production of cotton, as any land in the colonies. The west coast of Pomaroon juts on the boundary of the Orinoko, where there is a military post es- tablished. Since the English took possession of the colonies, they have cultivated the whole of that coast, extending upwards of fifty miles, and are now making estates on the banks of the Poma- roon, which river is half a mile broad at its entrance, and is difficult of access, fioui projecling banks of mud on each side ; and a bar of the same consistency, which runs across, pre- vents any vessels entering drawing more than nine feet water. Up the edges of this river, the melancholy traces of ancient cultivation, and abandoned residences, are frequently apparent. Above the fork, formed by the junction of the Harlipyak with the Pomaroon, the Hollanders had formerly three settle- ments of some extent. Fort Zealand, which the English destroyed in 1666; Middleburg, which at the same period was plundered and abandoned ; and Harlipyak, which bor- rowed or lent the name of the contiguous stream. The present SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARYi &C. -203 -English system of cultivation begins with the lands nearest to the sea ; but the Dutch, probably from the fear of those buc- caneering expeditions, of which Sir Walter Raleigh had given a specimen, at the expence of the Spanish settlers in Guyana, began, but fruitlessly, their establishments at the interior eX;- .tremity of the lowlands, and as far up the different rivers as they found the navigation convenient, and the soil docile. 1 trust it will not be long before the British have covered the reproachful traces of ruhi and desertion, with new dwellings and wider cultivation. The estates already made between the Essequebo and Po-; maroon rivers, are variously valued from five to eighty thou- sand pounds sterling each, according to the extent of culti- vation, number of negroes, buildings, &c. &cc. This coast possesses a considerable advantage over the other sea coasts, from its being able to rear any quantity of plantains, the land being so very luxuriant and rich, while those estates on the east coast of Demerary, are obliged to purchase plantains weekly in the river, and keep a craft employed in conveying then\ for the support of the negroes. The plantain or bannanna tree, is a native of Guyana, and produces fruit nine months after planted, it is about ten feet high; one plant produces three or four stems, which grow perfectly straight, but are cut down ^^'ithin six inches of the D d2 204 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ground, after the fruit is gathered, and in succession, it pro- duces another crop. A plantain has nearly the shape of a pars- nip or carrot, but continues of equal circumference to both ends, and Is guarded from the rays of the sun, by a thick peal or skin ; when roasted, it is more like bread than any other vegetable, and is produced in bunches, which weigh from fifty to seventy pounds. The only usual species of grain are the maize, or Indian corn, which produces six weeks or two- months after planted; and the Guinea corn, which only yields one or two crops in a year. The Guinea and Scotch grass are cultivated in prefer- ence to hay, and produce abundance of fodder for cattle ; negroes are employed regularly in cutting grass for the supply of the town, which they dispose of for a shilling per bundle. Cotton is the only produce which this Pomaroon coast avails itself of to any degree of excellence, for which purpose it is equally as good as any other land in the colonies. Of sugar and coffee, there are estates, but neither answer so well as cot- ton, from the being land too rich and saline. It is a fact that the land improves with every crop that is taken off, as does also the quality of its production. The cultivators and settlers of this coast had a great deal to contend with in accomplishing what they have ; a marshy track of country, covered with immense heavy bush, was entirely to ixe drained, cleared, and SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, kc. 205 planted by new negroes ; and the first settlers were so scat- tered about, as to be ten and fifteen miles from each other, or any cultivated estates; and then, the only m,ethod of getting to them, was by a boat or canoe, by which means they were also obliged, for the first year, to convey their plantains, till they could have their own planted. The planters and negroes were, also in the first instance, obliged, until they could build temporary huts, to sleep in the open air, with their hammocks hung between two trees ; this was a pretty hard trial for both negroes and master, but nothing to what they are continually obliged to bear in the settlement of new estates. They had not very liberal encouragement, as the east coast planters had examined the land, and declared it incapable of producing cotton, and would not answer cultivating. The new adventurers were stimulated by a desire to excel, and by industry and perseverance, soon got a crop off, but which, from the richness of the soil and youngness of the trees, did not produce as much as was expected, from their growing more into wood and branches, than pod ; they then took in more land, and planted with cotton and plantains ; the trees which yielded before, had now grown to a proper age, and the ensuing crop sutficiently repaid them, by pro- ducing a quarter of a pound of cotton per tree; and indeed at the end of six years, these estates improved- themselves, and would produce tree for tree, as much as the east coast. This 206 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE gave general satisfaction, though the east and west coast planters still have a little sparring. In 1799 and 1800, the rage for cotton planting, was greatly increased by the largest crops ever known to be produced in the .colonies, and the price it fetched at market, exceeded every former limit. From the season being so very favourable, it was computed that every tree produced a pound of net cotton, although the ge- neral average is never calculated at more than one fourth. The price in the English markets, gradually advanced from two shillings and sixpence to four shillings per pound, and almost all the large crop fortunately arrived for sale, and be- nefitted by the rising prices. The crop commenced in Sep- tember, and continued, with little or no intermission, until July following ; and such was the immense blow and quantity of cotton on the trees, that a great deal was lost and blown away before it could be picked. Many estates hired negroes at three, four, and five shillings per day, under an idea of preserving the cotton, by picking it in time, and on Sundays, those negroes who were willing to work, were paid in the same proportion by their proprietors. Negroes too belonging to sugar and coffee estates, willingly hired themselves for that day, to pick cotton for the neighbouring plantations. From several transactions which came under my inspection, I had an opportunity of knowing that considerable profitable SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 207 speculations were made by the merchants, who purchashig at a low price, shipped the cotton so as to meet the market in England just described. Two, three, and even four thousand pounds have been cleared by one shipment. ^The Kapoya creek, which lies between the Essequebo and the Pomaroon, is also beginning to exhibit its villas, its logics, its sugar-houses, and its windmills ; but the established set of crops are raised every where in the same way, and few at- tempts are made to enrich the country by new articles of pro- duce. A great service might be rendered to us by the intro- duction of some East India plants — of the bamboo for instance — which is applicable to so many mechanical purposes of com- mon life, and which some of the lascars in Trinidad, could teach us to employ. Its natural soil is on the delta of rivers, in such mud-islands as we inhabit. It appears to me that a distinct exploiteur ought to be ap- pointed for each of the rivers, and that the grants of land ought all to be made on the principle of an increasing quit- rent. The local otlEicers might in some degree depend on a central institution at Paramaribo, an arrangement which could easily be made instrumental to the revenue of the state and to the comfort of Individuals. Perhaps the Courantine offers the most expedient field for the next enterprizes of plantation. Its contiguity to the Surinam, would afford great facilities in ^08 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE the supply of the first wants, both of provision and construc- tion ; and its settlement would complete an inland communi- cation between all the English colonies in Guyana. The importation into Liverpool in 1796, of cotton, from the Essequebo and Demerary, was six thousand bales, since which time the quantity has gradually increased, and in 1804, amounted to twenty-four thousand, nine hundred, and seventy bales. The increase also into the ports of London, Glasgow, and Bristol, have been upon the same extensive scale. SET1LEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 'SO^ < CHAPTER XI. •INCREASE OF SUGAR ESTATES, AS WELL ON THE COAST AS • IN THE RIVERS EXPENSIVE UNDERTAKINGS SEASONED NEGROES- — SAILORS AND TRADESMEN IMPORTED FROM - THE ISLANDS ON ADVANTAGEOUS TERMS TO THEM- SELVES CIRCUMSTANCE WHICH OCCURRED AT THE SALE OF AN AFRICAN CARGO PROOF OF GRATITUDE IN NEGROES A MELANCHOLY STORY TASK GANGS WOOD CUTTERS — VISIT TO AN ECCENTRIC CHARACTER— AC- ■ COUNT OF HIS ESTABLISHMENT. M< .OST of the emigrants from the West India islands have hitherto engaged themselves principally in sugar planting, by which means the number of estates for that article are increased five to one. The genius of the Dutch could never thoroughly dive into the proper method of manufacture, and, for want of capital to carry their njeasures into effect, they almost all failed, and never arrived to any perfection. Such was the rage for making sugar estates, which our islanders had introduced into the colony, that several were E e iilO STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE founded at an enormous expence on the sea coast. This land was always considered too saline, and the difficulty, from the shallowness of the water. In landing the heavy articles required for the buildings, such as bricks, lime, miH timber and frames, coppers, stills, and iron work, made the old colonists fearful of engaging in such an undertaking, until the enter- prising and dashing Englishmen launched into it, and boldly sunk in accomplishing their object, some thirty, forty, and fifty thousand pounds, in making a plantation. One gentle- man from the islands, purchased three sugar estates of fo- feigners, valued at one hundred thousand pounds, sixty of which he paid in bills, on London, at sixty and ninety days sight;, the balance wjis paid in equal instalments, with interest. I mention this circumstance merely to give an idea of the in- dividual speculation which was carried on at the time of the surrender, under the idea of the colonies being kept by Great Britain at peace. Seasoned and valuable negroes, used to plantation work, were imported in considerable numbers from the West Indies, to. assist in agriculture. Men brought up and used to the sea, were also brought over to instruct our negroes in the manage- ment of the colony boats and craft. Many of them were free, who engaged themselves for that purpose, and others were sold on most advantageous terms to themselves ; so that after a certain period of service, they were intitled to their freedom SETTLEMENTS OK THE DEMERARY, &C. 211 and wages. Some of them, besides being provided with pro- visions and grog, received three joes, or five pounds ten shil- lings sterling per month, which eventually enabled many an individual to purchase a share of his master's boat, or to get one for himself, in which case he would be as a carrier, or droger, to those estates which did not keep craft of their own. If he was a careful industrious servant, his employer generally found it for his interest to take him into partnership, or al- low him a proportion of the profits arising from his carrying for other estates. In a similar way were negro and mulatto tradesmen, such as carpenters, bricklayers, coopers, mill- wrights, tailors, and shoemakers, induced to come over and settle among us. These people, of course, worked under the direction of white merchants, who had been engaged and brought over from England and Scotland, but principally from the latter. By these means, we not only increased our num- ber of good tradesmen by importation, but induced many of our own negroes to become such, by apprenticing them to that trade they preferred ; young boys, from the age of twelve to fifteen, were generally fixed on for that purpose, and it has been remarked of the African negroes, that those of the Congo Wand Elbo nations were the better adapted, and quicker at ac- quiring a knowledge of a trade, than any others. I knew a carpenter, who had from fifteen to twenty boys belonging to different people, that were articled to him for two, three, and four years. I cannot conceive for what reason such long ap- Ee 2 212 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE prenticeships to the mechanic arts have been introduced in England. The rudest African learns in three years any of the common handiworks : and can the European, accustomed from his childhood to see them exercised, and to handle their tools and their wrought ware, require more than double the time ? It is a great oppression to a young man to find his labour, from eighteen to twenty-one, has been contracted for by his parents at half its value. ( I once witnessed a curious debate between two negro boys in a sale room where the cargo of an African ship was landed. I observed all of them dancing and singing previous to getting their dinners, except these two boys, who were apart from the rest, and appeared from their manner of speaking and gestures, to be talking on some. Very interesting subject. I was induced to draw nearer them, when the eldest of the two explained to me> by signs and broken English, (which he had acquired in some of the factories on the coast of Africa, and from the sailors in the course of his passage) that the other boy was afraid he was going to be sold to white men to be eaten ; while he had been attempting to impress on his mind, that the intention of his being brought there, was to work. I soon eased tlie boy's mind by taking him into the yard, where there were some carpenters at work, and putting a hammer into his hand, made him to understand that he was to learn t6 build houses and work with the carpenters ; at which, he SETTLEMENTS ON THE OEMERARY, &C. 213 began hammering and knocking away to shew his willingness, then ran to me and hugged me, pointed to my mouth and then to himself, at which I shook my head with abhorrence. The poor fellow was remarkably pleased at my assurance that we were not cannibals, and I had soon the pleasure of seeing him join his comrades in their dancing and singing, with a heart free from care. The next day I had an opportunity of getting him a good purchaser, who, at my request, made him a carpenter. I frequently saw him afterwards, and he always thanked me. with apparent gfatitude, for what I had done for him. The other being a clever quick lad, was taken by the per- son who had the sale of the cargo, and intended for a cook, but not liking such a dull inactive life, he preferred being a sailor, and was accordingly, through my interference, put into a co- lony boat for that purpose. I was afterwards often with him at $ea, and always had reason to believe he would do any thing in his power to serve me. When my segars were done, in con- sequence of being out longer than I expected, from contrary winds or other causes, Jem, for that was his name, has fre- quently deprived himself of his leaf tobacco, to make me segars. I am fully convinced he saved my life, by extricating lae from a situation I had imprudently placed myself in one day while bathing ; I got nearly out of my depth, and from tnot being able to swim, the current, which was running at the rate of six miles an hour, quite overpowered me, and pre- vented my return to shore. Jem, who was on board the 214 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE schooner, which was at that time lying aground at the point of Walkenaam island, at the mouth of the Essequebo river, where the circumstance happened, perceived my situation, plunged into the water, and succeeded in getting me along- side, where with the assistance of the small boat, he brought me on board, heartily tired with my bathing excursion, and my arms, neck, and shoulders, completely blistered by the sun. At another time I had an opportunity of seeing him particu- larly active in attempting to save the captain of the schooner, a white man, who unfortunately fell overboard. We were going very fast at the time before the wind ; the small boat happened to be towing astern ; Jem, and another negro jumped in and cut the tow rope, but their good intent was frustrated, it was too late, the watery deep had closed over him. When the accident happened, it was nearly dark, we came to anchor and hoisted a lanthorn at the mast head, as a signal for the boat to find us. It was a long two hours before it re- turned from the fruitless search, in which time, however, I could not but remark how much the remaining negroes were affected, and admired their assiduity in providing something warm and nourishing for the captain, in case he should be taken up, an event they expected, from his being such a good swimmer, until the boat returned, when their disappointment and grief were excessive. These circumstances tended to raise the African race high in my estimation, and satisfied me that gratitude and affection could be made prominent features in SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 215 v/* their disposition when properly treated and soothed. I am convinced their's is a character but superficially known, and is worthy of a particular investigation. From an increase of cultivated extent of country, employ- ment for negroes of course followed, and as those planters who began with small capitals, were debarred the advantage of stocking their estates with a sufficient number of labourers, the most expedient plan for accomplishing their work, was to hire negroes. Managers and overseers of estates are always enabled, by frugality, to save as much from their salaries as to purchase a negro, whom they let or hire out to work. The next year they can purchase two, and the year after, two more. In this progressive manner, many men have laid the foundation of fortunes. The possession of one negro, has eventually made them owners of fifteen or twenty, at which lime they are formed into a Task Gang; which is so called from its undertaking to do a specific quantity of work,- such as clearing and preparing so many acres of land, draining and planting the same; which they are paid for by the acre. Many of these gangs are in existence, and are of great utility to new settlers. Some of them have fixed residences up the rivers and creeks, and when plantation work does not offer, are employed in timber cutting for the building of houses, mill frames, and various other uses so constantly in request on estates. In Europe, the abolition of vassalage seems to have 21S STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE grown out of the institution of task gangs. The guilds of thfe burghers, which prepared the way for all the chartered li- berties of the people, were originally purse clubs, founded to prevent the artisans from becoming chargeable, in seasons of distress, to the landlord on whose estate they were born. If our task gangs were encouraged by the government, to ap- propriate a part of their earnings for the attainment of a like independence, companies of free labourers would insensibly edlclcs which grow from the top of the trunk; they have an agreeable odor, and are used for preserves. The fruit is about six inches in length, of an oval form, and when ripe of a yellow color. The internal part of the fruit consbts of a soft pulp, mixed with small seeds. This pulp is covered by a substance somewhat like that of a pompion, which is eaten when ihe fruit is nearly ripe, being previously boiled. There ii62 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE is another tree, called the male poppau, which produces no fruit. The American aloes tree grows to about twenty-five feet in height. The trunk is about nine inches in diameter, and co- vered by triangular pointed laminae, which arc green through- out the year, and diminish in size as they approach the top. The roots send out leaves, which surround the bottom of the tree with a bush. These leaves are about four feet in length, seven inches in breadth at the middle, which is the broadest part, and about half an inch in thickness. They are pointed at the end, covered by a smooth green skin, and in- ternally consist of a white saponaceous substance. The branches commence about fifteen feet from the earth; they are short, and in considerable numbers. The flowers consist of six petals with a pointed summit, as many stamina with large anthers, and one pistil. These flowers grow in large clusters, one of which arises from each branch. This tree attains its full size in three months; it is very beautiful, and is usually planted in gardens. The aloes plant consists of a slender conical stalk, about twenty inches in height, incircled at the bottom, near the earth, by several diverging leaves, and supporting, near the top, several pendulous yellow flowers. The leaves are about two feet in length, five inches in breadth in themiddlc, which SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 263 is the largest part, and six lines in thickness. They are set yyith short strong prickles on each side, running the whole length of the leaf, and are covered by a smooth green skin. This skin contains a soft bitter pulp, from which exudes a thick juice. The juice when indurated is the aloes. The process of induration is effected either by the sun, or by boil- ing; but the former is much more valuable. The silk grass plant, or curretta, as it is called by the na- tives, is smaller than the American aloes, but similar in ap- pearance. The flowers consist of six petals, six stamina, and one pistil. The leaves arise from the root, and form a large cluster. They are much like those of the American aloes, and are about three feet in length. Their internal substance consists of a saponaceous pulp, mixed with fine white strong threads. The threads, when separated from the pulp, are white and glossy, and very much resemble silk; and curious nets and strong ropes are made of them. The pulp is used for washing, instead of soap. The siliqua hirsuta, or cow itch, is a plant like the vine, long, slender, and creeping. The leaves are thin, pointed, and covered with a down. The flowers grow in clusters, and are followed by a pod, somewhat similar to the common pea in shape and size, and containing several purple beans. The '26't STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE pod is thickly covered by very fine stiff pointed hairs, which produce an intolerable itching upon being applied to the skin. The Indian yam is peculiar to this part of America. The plant is long, slender, and like a vine ; ihe leaves are large, and digitated ; the root is about eight inches in length, and as thick as a man's wrist ; it is of a reddish purple colour, and affords an agreeable farinaceous food. Ginger is the root of a reed. It grows to the height of about sixteen inches. Its leaves are long, narrow, sharp, and rise in a spiral direction. The land near the coast is well adapted to the growth of ginger, which requires a soil frequently drenched in water. Of the cassava shrub there are two kinds, the bitter and the sweet. The main stem is knotted, covered with an ash co- loured bark, and grows to the height of four feet. The branches are thin, short, and green, and arise from near the top of the trunk. The leaves are large and digitated, and arise by red foot stalks, six inches long from the branches. The root is about a foot in length, and six inches in circum- ference, of a cylindrical form, and consists of a white farina- ceous substance. To prepare it for food, it is ground into a meal, the meal is then squeezed to express the juice, and is SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 265 afterwards baked into cakes, which are good food, and will keep for several months. The juice is boiled with meat and seasoned, and makes excellent soup, which is termed Casse- repo, and used in pepper-pot and sauces. The Indians and negroes are very fond of this sauce, highly seasoned with cayenne. Pepper-pot is a standing dish, and if replenished when near the bottom, will keep for any length of time ; it is related of a Dutchman, who lived in Berbice, that he abso- lutely kept one for upwards of twenty years. The whole of this root, both the meal and the juice, before being exposed to fire, are fatal poisons, and cattle are frequently killed by drinking of the juice which has been left in their way by the carelessness of the slaves. This poisonous quality is possessed only by the bitter cassava. The plant which bears the caruna poison, is a small tree, covered by a brown bark. Its leaves are small, oval, and of a light green colour. At the end of the branches grows a red- dish coloured blossom, which falls off and is succeeded by small nuts, covered by a thick husk. The nut has a hard shell, and contains a farinaceous kernel. This kernel is a slow poison, which is said to be made use of by some tribes of In- dians to destroy their enemies. The nibbees are long creeping plants, without leaves or branches, of immense length, whilst their circumference is M m 266 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE seldom more than seventeen or eighteen inches, sometimes not above three or four. In the interior parts of the country they mount from the eartli to the tops of the loftiest trees, then descend to insert themselves in the earth, and then again ^ mount to the neighbouring tree, connecting the trees in this manner in various directions. Sometimes they coil themselves round the trees, and sometimes insert their tendrils into the bark, thus destroying them either by compression or starva- tion. The nibbees are made use of for fastening the thatch of houses, for which purpose they are split into small ligaments. The stalks are of different forms, some are round, others are angular, flat, or grooved. Troolies are leaves of an enormous size. They are used to cover houses, which they protect from the most violent rains, and last for many years. This leaf is about twenty or thirty feet in length, and two or three in breadth ; it is supported by a strong stalk about three inches in circumference at its com- mencement. About twelve of these leaves, each supported by its stalk, grow from the roots. In the center of these leaves a short stem shoots up, upon which is a cluster of light yellow flowers, these falling off are succeeded by large round nuts. The plant, the root of which is the ipecacaunha, grows to about three feet in height. The leaves are large and smooth. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, kc. 267 and sharp at the end. When the flower, which is yellow, falls ofl; it is succeeded by a long round pod. The pod con- tains white silky filaments, to which a number of small dark seeds adhere. Their roots are thin and woody, and have an emetic quality. M m 2 268 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE CHAPTER XIV. CHANGE OF CONDITION IN THESE PROVINCES RESULTING FROM THE CONQUEST CAPITULATION OF 1796 BURGHER REGULATIONS REVISED NEW BARRACKS CON- TRACTED FOR BY AN ENGLISH MERCANTILE HOUSE AR- RIVAL OF TROOPS RATIONS NEW RUM, PROPERLY CALLED KILL DEVIL FACT RELATED OF AN ENGLISH SEAMAN BATAVIAN MEDICAL STAFF FEVER IN THE DUTCH TROOPS BAD TREATMENT OF THE PATIENTS GREAT NUMBER OF DEATHS MANNER OF INTERRING DU MELLES RESIGNATION REFUSED ENGLISH GUI- NEAMEN ALLOWED TO SELL SMUGGLING REGULA- TION TO PREVENT IT EVERY BOAT OBLIGED TO WEAR DUTCH COLORS FATE OF A NEGRO CAPTAIN FOR RE- FUSING. A, .N account ought now to be given of the change of con- dition which these provinces have undergone, in consequence of their passing from the Dutch under the British protection. Those circumstances relative to the transfer of allegiance, which passed within the limits of my hearsay, or observation, are not many, and can have no claims to importance as histo- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 269 rical anecdotes. But so many methods of subsistence have taken a new form and course, so many different sources of prosperity have gushed in upon the country, so many unex- pected experiments in speculative industry \vere successfully tried during the anarchy, that a narration, however defec- tive, will almost inevitably throw light on the regulations, which a wise policy ought to adopt, for promoting the future and permanent benefit of the district. I will begin therefore with the public papers which announced to government the surrender. To the Right Hon. Henry Dundas, one of his Majesty's prin- cipal secretaries of state, from Lieut. -Gen, Sir Ralph Aber- CROMBY, K. B. commander in chief of his Majesty s forces in the West hidies. Head 2,iiarters, St. Lucia, May 2 290 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE would quarter four thousand men with the greatest ease, and regard to health. These buildings and improvements were projected by the Dutch government, contracted for by an English mercantile house, the plan improved by the engineers under General Grinfield, and finally paid for by the colony. They are certainly a very great acquisition to the troops, and afford an opportunity in case of sickness, of removing them to different situations for change of air, which is very neces- sary, and so often proves salutary. Some little time after the first arrival of troops, which amounted to fifteen hundred, a reinforcement of five hundred more arrived, equally in as bad a plight as the former, with regard to provisions and accommodation on board ship ; the preparations and arrangements made for their reception were not in the least calculated to benefit their situation. A more ill-digested plan for the reception of two thousand men into a tropical climate, I suppose never was witnessed ; if they had had no time for making the necessary arrangements, something might have been urged in apology; but as upwards of fourteen months had elapsed from the signing of the preliminaries of peace to their arrival in the colony to take possession, surely more might have been done to render their situation com- fortable, and approaching to that of civilized human beings. Not to put a worse construction on the conduct of the Bata- vian government in this particular instance that it deserved, it SETTLEMXETS ON THE DEMERARY, kc. 291 must be viewed as a wretched piece of parsimony to have sent the troops out as they did, destitute of every comfort and convenience, and I might almost say of the common neces- saries of Ufe. Their rations consisted of meal bread and hard biscuit made of the same material, a large quantity of which was imported from Holland. Salt beef and pork badly cured, from the same place, with peas, oatmeal, and calavancies, without the change of fresh meat, these articles absolutely and solely constituted the provisions served out to the Batavian troops in these colonies. The pay of the troops was so small, as scarcely to allow them to purchase pipes and tobacco. A Dutch soldier would sooner be deprived of his dinner than his pipe. Without half the indulgences British troops have, were these poor miserable wretches left to their fate, not an allowance of spirits to render their water palatable, except 7ietv rum, which is not impro- perly termed "kill devil." An instance of this I had from undoubted authority. A seaman, belonging to one of his Majesty's ships, stationed in the West Indies, died suddenly, turned quite black in se- veral parts of his body, and was evidently in a putrescent state ; the surgeon requested leave of the captain to open and examine him, which was accordingly done, when a quart of neiv rum, nearly as clear as when it first issued from the p p 2 *292 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Still, was taken from him, which evidently caused his de cease. I am convinced, if our brave seamen were to profit by the knowlege of its deleterious qualities, that we should not experience half the number of deaths we at present do: I principally allude to the seamen in the merchants' service, who, as is well known, when on shore, are under little or no controul from the masters of ships. On a Sunday, their general point of rendezvous is at the grog shops, where, besides get- ting beastly intoxicated with this new rum, they supply them- selves with a small keg to serve them during the week, in ad- dition to the allowance they receive from their ships, which is always of a good quality, as the masters generally have an opportunity of laying in a sufficiency for the voyage, free of duty, before they leave England. I have frequently heard unthinking people exclaim, " ah ! the climate of the West Indies is the grave of our seamen:" I entertain a more charitable opinion of it. During the seven years of my being a resident of Demerary, I never knew of any contagious fevers prevailing among the inhabitants there ; I do not even remember more than one instance of yellow fever, when the coffin was ordered tor the patient, but he recovered. The small pox, I should hope, will be com- pletely eradicated, by the active exertions of Messrs. Dxuikin and Lloyd, who introduced and promoted the vaccine inocu- lation to the utmost of their power, by appointing regular days SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 293 for attending to it, free of expence; and by having negroes sent from the distant parts of the colonies, thus giving the medical men, who resided inland, an opportunity of extend- ing it. The medical staff attached to the Batavian troops was very numerous, but consisted principally of inexperienced young men, and boys of sixteen or seventeen, as mates, who, from all appearance, had been taken out of apothecaries shops in Holland, for the purpose of continuing that parsimony they had so ably commenced with. To these unskilled youths, and to their lack of knowledge, was the health of two thousand men confided. I can figure to myself the outcry which would have been raised against a British ministry, were any of their undertakings conducted on a similar basis. My aim and intention is to relate facts without exaggera- tion, I will therefore take the liberty of returning again to the 2d of December, when the troops were drawn up to receive the governor. They were landed in the afternoon of the 1st, and on the 2d, when they were paraded with ostentation, they had not had one meal, or eaten a morsel since leaving the transports, which nearly completed a space of twenty- four hours. The first day's duty and exposure to the sun, without that suste- nance which nature required for her support, with the other disadvantages the troops laboured under, may be deemed the ii94f STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE first step toward sickness, and indeed the foundation of all the dreadful calamities which followed. The disorder, which broke out among them, soon began to rage with fury; the number of sick encreased daily, in fact hourly, occasioned by their being allowed to remain in the barracks with the healthy men; their surgeons were panic struck; an epidemic fever ran through the soldiery like wild-fire; already were there a thousand of them confined. In this posture of affairs, the Batavian government should have issued out good and whole- some rations, wine and other nutritious restoratives, and exerted themselves to have encreased the comforts of their troops ; but it was ordained otherwise, and though fifteen or twenty died every day, the number of patients still encreased. To behold as I have done, dozens of human carcases ex- posed for hours to the sun on the hospital wharf in La- bourgade, and in open boats waiting for coffins, and after- wards to have seen them packed three in a coffin, would make any body shudder. The deaths soon after encreased to such a degree, that there was no possibility of being supplied either with coffins, or even with graves. The burial ground was already made impassable from the stench created by so many bodies being interred in so short a space of time, frequently not more than three feet under ihe earth, so that it was at last determined to roll them up in their blankets, and send them outside the river's mouth in punts, or fiat bottomed boats, and there commit them to the deep. Colonel Du Melle, who SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 295 commanded tlie troops, being quite disgusted, tendered liis re- signation to the governor, which his excellency declined ac- cepting. The inhabitants continued very healthy, and unaffected with the contagion which had spread amongst the soldiers ; the deaths, for the first two or three weeks, used to be announced in the colony gazette, but from motives of prudence were after- wards repressed. From good authority I know they ex- ceeded five hundred within three months after their arrival, when the governor found the necessity of giving them a change of air. Accordingly they were dispatched to different parts of the colonies in small detachments, which probably saved the lives of many, but not of all ; for on the colonies capitulating to the British in September, 1803, a deficiency of nearly three hundred of the troops was perceptible, which number must have died in the country. One hundred and eighty poor miserable objects were delivered over to the British, on their taking possession of the colony, and immediately placed imder the care of an able English physician. Dr. Allanby. They almost all recovered, and were so much pleased with their rations, manner of treatment, and allowance, which was so different from what they had been accustomed to, that they one and all entered into the British service at Barbadoes. 296 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE The Batavian government covenanted that British Guinea- men should be allowed to sell their cargoes in the colonies for three years, but not be permitted to take away any thing in re- turn, except bills upon Holland. This regulation was certainly very hard; however, during the four months peace, which subsisted, after they were in possession of Demerary, several cargoes were sold, and the ships, obliged to leave the river in ballast, used to lay off and on the coast in the day, and would anchor at night to take in the produce which was brought oft' to them. By these means considerable quantities of cotton were thrown into the London and Liverpool markets, notwith- standing the means taken by the Dutch corvette Ilippomenup, which sent out several tenders to intercept this smuggling trade. I was coming up from Essequebo one night, and be- fore we perceived it, the weather being very dark, were alongside of an English Guineaman, who was then taking in cotton. We were immediately hailed and ordered to stand off; but continuing on our tack, and nearing the vessel more and more, we were saluted by a shower of musket bails, se- veral of which passed through the sails and wounded the masts ; fortunately no other injury was done. The negroes appeared perfecdy composed, and proceeded to put the schooner about, merely saying "Them buchra sailor mad — no ?" While we were in stays, another volley was fired, but jTfiore for the purpose of frightening than of injuring, as the SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 297 balls whistled over our heads without appearing to strike any part of the vessel or rigging. One of the first measures taken by the naval commandant on the station, was to insist on every colonial boat, of whatever nature, wearing a distinguishing vane. For registering the name of the vessel, and receiving written instructions, the captain of the Hippomenus extorted , a joe, or thirty-six shillings, for each boat ; therefore com- puting the number of boats at six hundred, he made upwards of one thousand pounds by this assessment on individuals. Moreover every colony craft, however small, even an open boat, was not allowed to pass and repass in and out of the river, without having a Dutch flag flying. Such was the national- lity they were led to, that a poor negro captain one day, who after having passed the fort and anchored in the river, hauled his Dutch colors down, was taken on board the corvette, and severely punished for not keeping them flying until the sun set. I saw the poor fellow afterwards, and he told me that his schooner should not wear any colors in the river until the Eng lish took the colonies again ; that he did not care for the Dutch captain, even if he flogged him every time he came in, he would have his own way ; to use his own language " kie ! massa Hendry, them Dutch color no good, me schooner no shall wear flag in the river, tae them English buchra come again, when me shall buy one English jack; me no mind suppose that Dutch oflScer flog me every time me schooner Qq 29S STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE come in; him no shall wear them color." To mc it was highly gratifying to observe how Englishly disposed all the negro interest is : born for the most part in the West India islands, these black sailors grow up with a patriotic zeal for all who talk our language. SETTLEMNETS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 299 CHAPTER XV. IMPROVEMENT AND STATE OF THE COLONY FROM 1783, TO THE PEACE OF AMIENS LOTS OF LAND SOLD VERY CHEAP DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE DUTCH AND ENG- LISH PLANTER PREVIOUS UNPLEASANT STATE OF THE COLONIES FROM INTERNAL CAUSES A SERVILE WAR QUELLED BY A REGIMENT OF RANGERS GRANTS TO THE OFFICERS ALONG THE POMAROON INVASION THREAT- ENED BY VICTOR HUGHES FROM CAYENNE HISTORIC PARTICULARS OF THAT SETTLEMENT FURTHER PARTI- CULARS OF THE PROGRESSIVE STATE OF THE INTERIOR. - A HE preceding chapter left the Dutch in quiet possession of the colonies. The new regulations of the court of Holland, and the extension of power granted to the governor, were hailed as returning symptoms of affection and regard from the mother country, for want of which the infant had of late years been declining, but being received again under the pro- tection and fostering care of its mother, it was expected to thrive tenfold. ■ • . Q q 2 300 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Holland having withdrawn her attention from the eastern world, directed it to the improvement of her West India co- lonies. The ideas, which had been hitherto formed of them, were completely erroneous ; and since the English had made estates there, the Dutch discovered that any part of the conti- nent was fit for cultivation, and the soil every where adapted for profitable production. The governor and council were now authorized to grant tiie whole of the land adjacent the sea, lying between Demerary and Berbice, commonly called the east sea coast, and com- prising fifty miles in length, this track, as well as another, called the Arabische, or west coast of Essequebo, were sur- veyed and laid out into allotments of one quarter of a mile in breadth, facing the sea, and a mile in length extending into the interior, containing two hundred and fifty acres each, with a similar proportion reserved at the back of the first, to resort to when that should be cultivated. The Mahaica, Mahaicony, and Abarry creeks, empty themselves into the sea between Demerary and Berbice ; the two former are the principal, and were surveyed at the same time with the coasts ; the land here is good and easy of culti- vation. After penetrating through a few trees and underwood just on the edge of the banks, a fine clear open savannah SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 301 country presents itself, a most beautiful dank plain, with hefie and there a solitary tree, which has its effect in 4.i versifying the scene; such an immediate change of country and appear- ance is as unexpected as pleasing to the beholder. Soon after my arrival in the colony, I was highly gratified by an excursion into these savannahs, being on a visit at a cot- tage, as it is modestly called by the owner, in the Carrabanna district, about five miles from Mahaica. I was invited with my friendly host to breakfast, in the company of a large party, at Brome-hall, a neighbouring estate. We were fifteen or twenty in number, and every delicacy which the colony afforded, was provided by our hospitable entertainer ; tea, coffee, and rich soups, fowls and mutton, noyau, sangaree, and wine. Break- fast being finished, we mounted our horses, attended by ne- groes on foot, for the purpose of exploring a path through the savannah to some part of the Mahaica creek; and from the direction we took, it was intended to be beyond the cultivated estates, and as near the head of the creek as we could reach. The day was remarkably mild ; a fine clear open country ; all the party in spirits ; some bethought themselves of the plea- sures of the chace, which they had enjoyed in England. The hunting 'cry was given, and re-echoed from one to another; two or three old hunters, as if by instinct, started at the well known sound, and were soon the headmost in the field. The wirrebocerra, a sort of deer, was our projected game. A 302 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE marshy track compelled our attention to a path, which to our surprise, appeared to have been lately used, but our attentive host was in tlie secret, for on our arrival at the creek, which stopped all progress, we found a party of negroes, who had been dispatched before, with a cold collation, with punch, malt liquor, and wines. After partaking these refreshments, 'we mounted our horses again, and proceeded to the cottage, where the party had engaged to dine. We reached this estate about four o'clock in the afternoon, after travelling upwards of twenty miles, quite tired and fatigued. An excellent din- ner, aided by the sparkling charms of Madeira and claret, and the happy cordiality with which Mr. B. receives and enter- tains his friends, soon dispelled all weariness, and it was not till near morning that this joyous party separated. Mahaicony is the principal place in the colony where the colonial craft are built ; all the materials for which, except nails and iron work, are procured from the interior ; they are generally from thirty to forty tons burthen, schooner rigged, with covered decks, they draw only five feet water, and are navigated by negroes. A principal part of the allotments werd granted to Dutchmen, but the opinion which they had ori- ginally founded was not completely eradicated. Some attempts had been made by them to cultivate the sea coast, but these not succeeding as they expected, little more was done in it. Indeed they were soon glad to dispose of their grants, and on SETTLEMENTS ON* THE DEMERARY, &:C. 303 such terms and prices as the British subjects, who were arriv- ing daily, were glad to purchase at. Many lots of land of two hundred and tifty acres were sold for one and two hundred pounds. One indeed was even ex- changed for a negro, and another was absolutely given for a turkey, by which name the estate now goes, to commemo- rate the anecdote of its purchase. Similar lots to these on the east coast of Berbice have been sold by Mr. Blair, to whom large grants were made for four, five, and six thousand pounds in 1799, 1800, and 1801. The national slowness of the Dutch was never so completely verified as in the resettlement of these colonies. They are planters of the old school, and nothing whatever can divert their attention from the traditional manner in which they settle their estates. The system which the English have introduced, insures as much cultivation in one year, as a Hollander would accomplish in four. The one dashes on and prepares a hun- dred acres to plant, while the other is content with twenty- five; his greatest ambition is to make his estate look like a garden, while that of the Englishman is to get the greatest quantity of cotton under cultivation possible, as it has been found by the experience of a series of years, that the quantity, and not the quality, constitutes the profit of the crop. The labor which is saved by the English planters, is almost incal- so* STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE culable. Instead of cutting down every tree, and removing all the underwood, according to the pernicious example which was set them, they fired all the wood, except that part intended for provision grounds, in direct contradiction to the advice of their friendly though mistaken neighbours, who as- sured them the land would be totally ruined by such a pro- cedure. The event proved it otherwise, as from being too luxuriant before, it was found to be improved ; the megass, or soil generated from putrid foliage, which is generally a foot thick, prevents the fire from penetrating too far so as to injure the land. Messrs. B. and H. and Mynheer A. possess two estates on the west coast of Essequebo, four miles distant from each other, the former have only cultivated their estate five years, while the latter has been twenty-five years in cultivating his ; and the difference in the value of the last crop did not exceed five hundred pounds sterling. There is a wonderful dissimilarity between the Dutch and English colonists. They naturally both go out with a view of making money ; but the one with an intention of ending his days abroad, and the other of returning to his native country, to live in ease and independence on the fruit of his industry. The first thing a Dutchman does, after he is in possession of an estate, is to build a splendid house; the next thing is to employ SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMEBARY, &C. ^0^ his negroes in making a handsome garden; he then gets a pleasure boat, and four or five negroes are immediately put in training for sailors; and lastly, his ambition must be gratified by a curricle and pair of horses. The only thing they agre6 in is good living. The pleasures of the table they both are determined to enjoy ; the one in a large splendid house, and the other in a cottage. Many English merchants, about 1790, formed establish- ments, and settled in Demerary ; and considerable quantities of British manufactured goods were obtained from the West India islands; but the importation of negroes, or exportation of produce in British shipping, was prohibited as interfering with the Dutch navigation laws. Nevertheless, a barter trade to a considerable amount was carried on privately, and even passed over in silence by the officers of justice. There being no custom-house in the Dutch colonies, that superintendance devolves on the fiscal and receiver. The republican war of 1793 threw the inhabitants into great distress ; their intercourse with the mother country was retard- ed, and no business was carrying on, save with America, and the contraband trade with the English. Their military force was reduced to little more than two hundred men ; discontent occupied every breast, and it was with the utmost difficulty that the few remaining troops could be kept in subjection. R r 906 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Such was their deplorable situation in 1794-, when very alarming symptoms appeared among the bush negroes, who had been a considerable time in collecting, and were now at this period arrived at such a pitch of temerity, that it was necessary they should be checked. The Dutch troops, with a few negroes, were accordingly detached to the west coast of Demerary, where they entered the bush ; but after beating about several days, and having many skirmishes with the insurgents, in which they were de- feated, from being worn out with fatigue, they were obliged to return to the sea coast again, in time to behold the remains of their barracks perishing by the flames, which had been communicated to them by a party of the maroon iiegroes sent out for provisions. They murdered the manager and a mu- latto girl, burnt all the buildings they could approach, one of which had been appropriated for the troops, and stole every thing which was at all valuable, or that could be conveyed away. Such daring outrages as these had the appearance of leading to dangerous consequences, to ward oif which the governor and council thought it advlseable to call on the inhabitants for their assistance, for which purpose, many of tliem volunteered for the service, and a company of rangers was raised, consisting of negroes, which were contributed by the different estates, and placed under the command of Major M. Grath, under whom were Captains Dougan, Johnson, &c. with others in SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 307 subordinate situations. The armed burghers, or inhabitants, joined the rangers with a number of bucks, or Indians. These people are remarkably averse to the negroes, and have ge- nerally stood foremost in case of any disturbance, to quell the blacks, and protect the Europeans ; indeed they have always here, as in Berbice, evinced a strong desire to maintain and aid the white inhabitants in the sovereignty of the country. The combined forces took the field in 1795, formed into two divisions, one of which entered the bush on the west coast, and the other fifteen miles up the river, by Ababbour creek, with an intention of taking a complete circuit, and forming a junction. They were provided with several trusty negro guides, one of whom I very well knew, of the name of Gen- tleman : he belonged to an estate up the river, and had been purchased among other negroes out of an African cargo, at Grenada, and brought thence, by his masters, to settle on a sugar estate they possessed. This negro, from his uniform good conduct, soon gained the esteem and confidence of his owners, and from his sincere attachment to them, was looked upon as a favourite, which, liowever, was shewn in no other way than by trifling presents at a chance time. His house, his way of living, and indeed his employment, seldom dif- fered from that of others, except when any commission re- quired a confidential servant, then Gentleman was generally fixed on. He possesses good plain sense, considering the way Rr 2 308 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE in which he was bred among the savages of Africa. He was active and sharp sighted, had a. clear head, made himself ac- quainted with the principal passes and paths to the revolted negroes encampments, which he acquired by dint of persever- ance and industry, at the risk of his life, by making excursions, into the wood at night, by which means he discovered their places of retirement: he used especially to watch their carrying plantains, which they had stolen from the neighbouring plan- tain walks ; he was once or twice near being caught, in which event they would, have had no hesitation in killing him as a spy. He has always proved himself a faithful and honest negro, and except one failing, that of being rather too fond of rum, is free from vice. Few negroes possess ideas of honor and in- tegrity in a greater degree than he does. With all these good qualities, Gentleman could not fail of being eminently service- able to the division to which he was attached. I have fre- quently questioned him as to the nature of his own country, of which, he speaks with the utmost dislike and contempt. " Buckra (white men's) country more good ; here so, me only one massa, in a dat country for me, every man my massa, suppose he more strong than meself. They catchee me and make me work for them king; suppose me no want for work them sail kill me : sometime them king make war and one noder somebody get me for work ; them no give me victuals, them no give me rum, them no give me blanket, them no good like a buckra massa, them flog and them kill them slaves SETTLEMENTS ON THE DElVrERARY, &C. SOd like a hell ; suppose one king kickkaraboo (die), they kill all the slaves too." From this artless and unadorned tale, may be collected a great deal to prove the wretched situation of the negroes in tiieir own country, and with what arbitrary sway and despotism the petty kings, or rather barons, in Africa govern their vassals and slaves. But to return to the bush expedition, which, after consider- able fatigue, succeeded in surrounding an encampment, or negro village, in the night, consisting of seven huts. Many of the inhabitants were absent ; however, a number of them were taken, and those who resisted were shot and slain in the confusion of the moment. The Indians acted with great in- veteracy against the insurgents. A reward of ten pounds ster- ling being offered by the court for each right hand that was brought in belonging to a bush negro, they made no hesitation in disencumbering those killed, of these members. The gar- dens and provision grounds in the back country, which had been vigorously defended, were of considerable use to the pursuing party ; for the revolters had rooted up and laid waste every thing, burning every building, and desolating every plantation. The prisoners were sent in under an escort of rangers, who seeing every thing consumed and rendered useless, commenced their march again in search of the hostile encampment. They 310 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE kept the field for several weeks with little or no intermission/ until the health of the Europeans employed in the under- taking, obliged them to retreat, without even being able to dis- cover the main hiding place of the adversary. They repelled the gipsey foe into inaccessible districts. The promptitude and active manner in which the planters undertook this busi- ness, deserves the warmest praise, as they evidently prevented the insurrection from being extended, and brought to an open rebellion, in which case, all the disaffected in the colony would have joined, and from the weak state of the military force, would soon have had the colony in their own power. The governor and court of police were aware of the ser- vices rendered, and in their vote of thanks, which was sent both in the Dutch and English languages, intbrmed the prin- cipal officers of the expedition, that they would immediately take into consideration the best means to be adopted for granting them each a lot of land on the Pomaroon coast, in consideration of their services. Those in subordinate offices were remunerated for their loss of time, and handsome pre- sents were made to all. The Indians and negroes were not forgotten : many of them had silver medals given them for encouragement, with each particular service engraved thereon. The Indian chieftains were presented with large handsome sticks, with silver heads, as mementos of their services, and of their attachment to the Europeans. These encouragements were calculated to do considerable service, and to excite emu- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 311 lation and good conduct in others ; they will be handed down to posterity as marks of distinction and approbation. This business being so happily got over, the planters and merchants turned their attention to their own particular situa- tion. Belonging to a country which could neither protect them, nor their trade, whose European government and inha- bitants were divided by factions, which have finally made them a dray horse to a Corsican usurper. Something was ne- cessary to be done to enable them to open their ports, and ship from the colony the produce which had been accumulating for several years. A little trade with North America, and a heavy barter trade for negroes and produce with the English, were the only vents they had for any of their productions, and these, at the utmost, did not dispose of more than one-third of the annual crop. The English contraband trade, from a small beginning, increased so much, that the government was obliged to take notice of it, and a Dutch sloop of war, which was lying in the river, constantly kept out boats of observa- tion, to prevent a continuance of the trade. The English ves- sels used to anchor otF the coast as regularly as in a harbour, and kept always prepared a warm reception for these Dutch cruizers, in case they should come athwart them with hostile views. On the appearance of any vessels on the coast, these immediately returned into the river, and by feeing persons supposed to be in good understanding with the fiscal, every S12 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE thing was rendered eventually easy for the EngUsh planters and merchants to slip out with their schooners, though most of the produce exported this way, went from the east sea coast, by which means it avoided passing the fort at the mouth of the river. Destitute of almost every article of European manufacture and convenience, the military force reduced so very low as two hundred men, and these so nearly in a state of mutiny, as to make it synonymous to being without any ; the colonies began to be conscious in this situation that they should fall an easy prey to any adventurous plunderer. Victor Hugues' arrival at Cayenne began to be noised abroad, his repeated procla- mations of liberty and equality, which breathed vengeance on all the possessions not immediately in possession of the French, called on a rabble of idle and disaffected negroes and mulattoes to join, to whom he promised freedom, and held out a glit- tering prospect of glory. He succeeded in deluding six thousand misguided objects to join him, whom he armed, and disciplined, with an intention of taking possession of Dutch Guyana, and finally of revolutionizing all the British posses- sions in the West Indies. The dread of being consigned to the mercy of such a band of lawless miscreants as composed Victor Hugues* army, determined the inhabitants to apply for advice and protection to the island of Barbadoes, where some considerable proprietors resided who had also estates in SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, fcc. 315 Guyana. A short account of the French establishment at Cay- enne, must convince every one how much wiser it was to court the superintendence of a British, than of a French au- thority. The province of Cayenne is situated in about 53 degrees W. longitude, and 5 N. latitude, its principal settlement and seat of government is near the coast on a small island of the same name. It is bounded on the west by Surinam, on the north and east by the Atlantic ocean, and to the southward by the Portuguese territories, whence it is separated by the course of the Oyapoco as far as its boundaries have been de- fined ; the extent is computed to be three hundred and fifty British miles in length, by two hundred and forty in breadth. The French undertook, in 1635, the colonization of Cay- enne. Merchants of Rouen were the chief patrons of the scheme; Ponceau de Bretigny, the official governor of the settlers. The contempt for justice, which every where dis- tinguishes the French, was here fatal to their interests. The native Indians, expelled from their lands without even an at- tempt at consent or purchase, robbed of their huts for the ac- commodation of strangers, deprived of the society and labor of their women by the seductions or violence of the whites, and often compelled to toil for their oppressors, conspired s s 314 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE against the intruders, murdered the governor, and greatly harrassed and thinned the settlers. , On receiving this intelligence in France, a new company was proposed, and a reinforcement of a thousand colonists. Other merchants were to share in the enterprize. The former adventurers had erred by their violence ; these were to carry out every christian virtue. The multitude indeed could only be recruited from among persons of broken fortunes and cha- racter; but these it was presumed would copy from their chiefs. The abbe Marivault, a most pious, virtuous, and re spectable ecclesiastic, was to be the governor, or rather high- priest, of this new Jerusalem ; the general Roiville was in- tended for a subordinate character. In the act of embarking, at Havre, the abbe Marivault's foot was said to have slipped ; he fell into the sea, and was drowned. Roiville was assassi- nated during the passage. Those who arrived at Cayenne, displayed there, the same insubordination and atrocity which had broke loose on ship-board. They quarrelled with each other, with the former settlers, and with the natives; many died of wounds, more of the climate. The garrison deserted to the Dutch. The remnant of settlers, who clung longest to their properties, were obliged to fly from the hostility of the Indians, and escaped to one of the leeward islands in a boat and two canoes. Thus failed the second attempt to settle SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, kc. 315 Cayenne, and all the hopes of that company who had been at so piuch expence and trouble to colonize it. An expedition was soon after fitted out from Surinam, under the command of Spranger to take possession of the settle- ments thus evacuated by the French ; scarsely any adherent population was detected ; few materials that were worth remov- ing, or structures worth occupying afresh. It was, in fact, a visit of inspection, which terminated in systematic abandon- ment, but which serves to prove that Cayenne is a natural ap- purtenance of Paramaribo. In 1663, another West India company was established in France, under the directorship of La Barre. Their capital did not exceed ten thousand pounds sterling; but the great assist- ance they derived from the French government enabled them to regain the possession of the lands, and imbankments, which the former company had evacuated. Cayenne came again into the hands of the mother country ; but not for a long con tinuance. The English took it in 1667, and it was afterwards taken by the Dutch in 1676. The colony being restored to the French at a peace, great hopes were now entertained of its enjoying tranquillity, and realizing those hopes of gain, which had so long dazzled the eyes of the adventurers; but in this respect they were again mistaken. s s 2 516 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Du Casse, wlio was a good seaman, arrived with some ships from France, in 1688, at Cayenne, and by various means in- stigated a party of pirates, who had settled there two years be- fore with a large valuable booty, which they had taken in the south seas, and who were now employed in cultivating the land, to join him in plundering Surinam. Many of the other colonists, induced by the designing arts of this adventurer, joined him, but the expedition proved vmfortunate — some of the besiegers fell in the attack, the rest were taken prisoners, and sent to the French Carribbee islands, where they settled. The colony has never recovered this loss ; far from extending into Guyana, it has only languished at Cayenne. The island of Cayanno, or Cayenne, is separated from the continent only by two arms of a river of the same name, and is about eighteen miles long and eight or ten broad ; its situa- tion makes it a most unfit place for a settlement, and it would have fared much better with the colonists had they com- menced on the main. The land adjacent the sea, is hilly and mountainous, and that in the center low and swampy, con- tinually subject to inundations, to prevent which, no other plan can be adopted but that which has been followed in the neighbouring colonies, of digging dykes and draining into the sea. It is much doubted whether the soil is good enough to repay the expending of so much labor. This island is well SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, tScC. 317 fortified, the entrance into the harbour is very narrow, and no ship of any burthen can work in until high water. The aboriginal natives in the immediate neighbourhood of the sea coast, cannot exceed eight thousand, who, by the as- sistance of several missionaries sent among them, were induced to think better of the French then they deserved, from their repeated acts of oppression. The first production of Cayenne was arnotto, a red dye, called by the Spaniards, achate, and by the Indians, achiotl. The tree that yields this is from eighteen to twenty-four feet high, has large dark green leaves, a red bark, and is very bushy; it produces pods twice a year, nearly as large as a chesnut, which contain a pale red fruit or seed, about the size of a pea, which is made into cakes of arnotto, by undergoing fermentation and boiling ; the scum taken from the liquor constitutes the dye. Cotton, indigo, and sugar, were next introduced, and in 1721, coffee was brought from Surinam. Twelve years after, they planted cocoa. In 1753, the popu- lation and production stood thus : 500 whites, who employed 1500 negroes, and 1200 native Indians, and produced about 260,000 lbs. of arnotto, 80,000 lbs. of sugar, 1 8,000 lbs. of cotton, 27,000 lbs. of coffee, 92,000 lbs. of cocoa, and this was still nearly the situation of the colony in 1763. The cul- 318 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE tivation of indigo, which at one time was carried on success- fully, has greatly fallen off. The plant which yields indigo grows up in about six months ; when cut, it is placed in layers within a tub of water, and pressed down by weights. The water soon begins to ferment, then becomes opaque and green, and lastly acquires a putrid smell. After a certain length of fermentation, the leaves grow white ; the green liquid is then poured off and agitated until blue streaks appear ; after this, fresh water is added, and a blue precipitate is formed, which, being drained in linen bags and dried in the sun-shine, forms the dying drug called indigo. Maize, cassia, varrilla, have succeeded, but not conspicuously at Cayenne; with the cassia, however, a very transparent colourless liqueur is prepared from rum, which is in great request on the tables of the luxurious at Paramaribo. and throughout these colonies. The Cayenne pepper, as it is called, is the fruit of the capsicum baccatum, gathered when ripe, dried in the sun, then pounded and mixed with salt. It is sometimes baked with a small addition of flour; and the biscuit rasped into powder, is sent to Europe. Several kinds of grapes have been lately introduced, and a wine is made there said to be peculiarly medicinal in fevers. The French have succeeded better than other Europeans in obtaining labourers from among the bucks, or native Ameri- cans, and are supposed to import them from near the river of Amazons, toward which an annual caravan marches, and SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 319 holds along its route a circuit of fairs. The Portuguese have repeatedly attacked and massacred these caravans, for en- croaching on their territory. The extent of coast of this country is nearly three hundred British miles, bounded by the Oyapoco on one side, and the Surinam on the other ; the navigation coastways is very dangerous, to strangers especially, as their course is frequently retarded by banks of sand and mud flats of considerable e"xtent, which frequently shift. There is no harbour of any conse- quence except that which the island affords, and from an un- pardonable neglect in the colonists, scarcely a place on the sea coast where a boat can land with safety ; nay not approach it in spring tides, when the rollers and breakers are so heavy. From there being little or no cultivation here, the land is con- tinually inundated. The smallest vessels cannot come within three or four miles in particular parts of the shore, without running imminent danger of being upset, or entangled with the forests of mangroves, and other trees, which rise up out of the very sea. By a proper method of cultivation, all this might have been rescued from inundation, and have secured to the mother country an inexhaustible track of country, A vast capital, however, would have been requisite, and must have been permanently fixed there by the planters: the system of French commerce does not facilitate such advances to the dependent industry. Bordeaux cannot supply to the concate 320 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE nated sea-ports of the colonies, the grand staple of exertion and thrift. A demand for produce instantaneous and uninterrupted, and long credits, to any extent which can be usuriously paid for, are essential in all new countries. Soon after the peace of 1763, the court of Versailles, in- fluenced by the Duke of Choiseul, made vigorous efforts to give importance to Cayenne. Twelve thousand men, en- gaged in France as labourers, were landed, some in the isle du Salset, and some on the banks of the Kourou ; but alas no habitation or proper provision had been made for them. To add to their calamities, they arrived at the commence- ment of a rainy season. Situated thus, without fit food and shelter, without employ from the heaviness of the rains, weary of existence from their deplorable situation, they aban- doned themselves to shocking irregularities, which brought on contagious distempers, and soon terminated their wretched fate. Fifteen hundred men, who had escaped the mortality of disease, were washed away by the floods which assailed their ill-chosen settlement. Two thousand demanded to return to Europe and were unwillingly brought back. About a mil- lion sterling was uselessly expended on the enterprize. During the American war, the victory achieved by Ad- miral Rodney, in April 1780, offered to our ministry a fa- vourable opportunity for ordering Cayenne and Paramaribo SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 321 to be occupied by British forces. No steps of the kind were taken. Ignorance of the importance, which under our patron- age these most valuable districts of South America were likely to acquire, was, perhaps, in part the cause of the neglect. But the statesmen of that day, if statesmen they can be called, appear to have laboured under a worse, because more incurable, disease than ignorance, under prejudice. They both professed and fostered a culpable indiflerence to acquisition and empire, and voluntarily shook the cohesion of provinces, which they regarded as too extensive for a single seat of government. In order to bestow liberty on North America, it was not necessary to encourage independence; and thus to withdraw half the naval population of English sailors from the obligation to defend the mother country. From the peace of 1783 to the French revolution, the go- vernment of Versailles was meritoriously attentive to the improvement of Cayenne. Botanic gardens were founded there, and the plants of the East Indies were brought at a con siderable expense, and cultivated in a sort of nursery for dis- tribution among the planters ; cinnamon trees have thus been propagated to some extent ; the bamboo would have been yet more valuable. These scientific establishments have not been perseveringly patronized ; but they have been instrumental to the introduction of novel articles of cultivation into San Do-. mingo ; and, through the fugitive planters from that scene of T t S22 STATISTICAL ACCOUKT OF THE insurrection and desolation, these new productions are likely to be naturalized in Jamaica. Those French planters who are born in the West Indies, as- similate easily with the English planters. The patriotism of the soil is stronger than any hereditary or traditional allegi- ance. The manners of the climate, the notions of feudality, are common to both, and jar with the European catechism. In Dominique, Martinique, and other islands, which have been ceded to Great Britain, the Creole French are good sub- jects, and form a faithful attachment for that metropolis which purchases their commodities and supplies their wants. But those French, who are natives of Europe, do not acquire this common feeling with the British planters ; they are neither welcome nor safe colonists. In Cayenne and in San Domingo, many of these took part with the agitators, and sympathized with the proclamations of Victor Hugues. The mischief done in San Domingo is notorious. At Cayenne, the people of color did not make common cause with the emissaries of jaco- binism; the slaves could not read the eloquence of Brissot; and when it came to the lot of the original incendiaries to be trans- ported to these districts, which they had endeavoured to ino- culate with the fever of rebellion, they found no employment adapted for their talents, and less hospitality than a wiser phi- lanthropy would have secured. Some of them, however, have learned to cultivate land with the help of slaves, and may SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 323 perhaps live to uuteach the prejudices and errors, which they put into such destructive activity. It is of no small importance for Great Britain to remember, that to the fear of these dangerous opinions and of a servile war, was owing the first intimation of a disposition among the inha- bitants of Essequebo and the adjoini'ig districts, to throw them- selves xmder British protection. These colonies were con- quered, as the acts of parliament phrase it, vnider the implied engagement to maintain subordination in opposition to anarchy; and I should much fear from the Dutch proprietors, the avowal of a disposition to resume their ancient allegiance, if Bonaparte and his dependent kings become the patrons of vassalage, and Great Britain, of emancipation. The condition of the negroes is here the question which men have most at heart. It was soon after the capture of Saint Lucia by the British, that a flag of truce arrived from Barbadoes with an Essequebo proprietor on board, who had very frequent conferences with the governor, the time he remained, which was only two days, and who was said to be the bearer of some communication, or terms, from the commanders in chief of the British forces. Thus far is certain, that, unless he came over in an official ca- pacity, he could not have obtained passports, as a flag of truce, merely for his private concerns ; and the universal silence maintained as to the object of his mission, no less than the event T t L' 324 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE of it, justifies the general opinion. A guard was kept on board the vessel during her stay, and after her departure, re- ports began to circulate, which gained credit, as neutral ves- sels arrived from the West India islands, stating that an ex- pedition was fitting out at Barbadoes, intended for the reduc- tion of these colonies. The governor no doubt was acquainted with its destination; 'however, to keep up appearances, he made no relaxation in providing means for defence, his family and furniture were removed from town to the Rome estate, no doubt to preserve the one from the dangers and hardships of the seat of war, and the other from the destruction which would necessarily accrue to a town being stormed by the British ships of war; all these reflections were properly considered and weighed in the mind of his Excellency, and were acted on with a visible degree of spirit, to impress on the minds of those under his government, opinions which he did not perhaps thoroughly entertain. Several of the Dutch inhabi- tants of Stabroek, actuated by the example set them by Mr. Meertens, also removed their books, papers, and articles of value, to places of greater safety. A short time had elapsed since the departure of the flag of truce, when the river was blockaded by an English sloop of war, the Netley. A gentleman was landed from her on the east coast, who made arrangements with the planters for send- ing out their colony schooners to be captured for the time SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 325 being: they were to remain under her orders, until the expedi- tion, which had sailed from Barbadoes, should arrive, as they would be found essentially necessary for landing the forces, in case any opposition on the part of the Dutch rendered such a procedure necessary. A great parade of determined resistance was now made, so much so, that the English inhabitants felt themselves awk- wardly situated, and began to fear, there was more in it than they were aware of; as the force the Dutch had, if properly arranged and commanded, could make it a matter of consider- able doubt, whether the English force would be successful, owing to the bulwarks of defence which nature had provided, in the shallowness of the coasts, and the little effectual aid the colonists themselves could give, (though three fourths of them had been originally British subjects) on account of the oath of allegiance they had been obliged to ta:ke to the Batavian government. These fears and doubts were soon expelled, for on the 18th of September, a flag of truce came into the river fi-om the fleet, which was still out of sight, with a summons to the governor and council to surrender the colonies ; a council of war was again called, and a deputation sent off with full powers to ca- pitulate. 526 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE The beneficial effects of British conquest, which imme- diately converts into a fair the place taken under protection, and enriches the inhabitants as rapidly as French conquest im- poverishes, were soon apparent to all. The British capital now invested in the colonies made them of serious importance, and a grand object with the mercantile and monied interest of Great Britain to retain ; the mere claims on them being esti- mated, at the time of the peace of Amiens, at ten millions sterling, for advances made by the merchants of London, Li- verpool, Bristol, and Glasgow, since 1796. Several respect- able men were ruined, and others severely felt the versatility of government in ceding, by that disastrous treaty, so much British capital to its natural enemy, for although the Batavian republic lent its name, the colonies were given up to enrich the French, under whose influence and principles they were governed. The British government taking colonies in time of war, is always an encouragement for the English inhabitants to extend their cultivation, and invest their capital in the pur- chase of estates already made, as was evidently the case during the anti-jacobin war; they, as well as the monied men in Eng- land, supposed the colonies would be retained at a peace. Under this idea seven eighths of the cultivated estates belong- ing to Dutchmen and other foreigners, were purchased by spirited English adventurers, who, from motives of prudence, preferred settling in these extensive and flourishing continental ( SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 327 provinces to Investing their capital in the West India islands, which are declining in fertility, and scarsely produce interest for the capital employed. These colonies were originally settled by British industry and capital, and may date their second birth and fresh invigoration from their resumption by a British authority. These colonies, where upwards of tifteen millions of British capital are employed, produce more than all the West India islands jointly^ Jamaica excepted. These colonies, which consume so many British manufactured goods, employ such a proportion of shipping and seamen in their navigation, that they might have been looked up to as a never-failing resource against the declining state of our own islands. Besides raising taxes for the support of civil government, and paying certain dues and fees, stiled sovereign's money, they have produced a revenue to the crown of Great Britain of two millions annu- ally, yet they were unthinkingly given back at the peace of Amiens. If such a pernicious system as this continues to be followed, Bonaparte will soon gain one of his most ardent wishes — " Colonies, commerce, and ships." The first he will acquire ready made on a valuable and extensive scale by Bri- tish gold, industry, and perseverance, and the others will fol- low of course. Enthusiastic ideas of liberty and equality, and mistaken notions of humanity, by striving at emancipating the negroes, severed from Fiance one of the props of that re 328 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT 0? THE public ; St. Domingo is alluded to, the devastation and ruin of which is severely felt to this day, especially by the merchants of Bourdeaux. That dreadful example of blood-shed and slaughter, by a too sudden precipitation of the negroes into freedom, is equalled but by similar occurrences which took place in France at the same period; surely it ought to make the avowed friends to the emancipation of our colonial culti- vators tremble at the idea of the misery which they Iiave been tending to bring on pur West India possessions. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 329 CHAPTER XVI. PLANTERS -"THEIR MODE OF OBTAINING ADVANCES THE DISCREDIT INFLICTED BY THE PEACE OF AMIENS — GAL- LICANISM OF THE RESTORED DUTCH AUTHORITIES ENGLISH VESSELS ASSUME DUTCH COLORS NEW RU- MOURS OF A WAR IN EUROPE FRESH DISTRESS AMONG THE PLANTERS AND MERCHANTS DAMAGES ON RE- TURNED BILLS MISCHIEF OF A FLUCTUATING SOVE- REIGNTY ORDERLY CHARACTER OF THE NEGROES PA- TIENCE OF THE BLACKS DURING FAMINE INHUMANITY PUNISHED REGULATIONS TO PREVENT FUTURE SCAR- SITY SMALL INFLUENCE OF THE SETTLEMENTS ON THE SURINAM OVER THOSE ON THE DEMERARY AND ESSE- QUEBO — BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE RISE OF PARAMARIBO • — A MORE INTIMATE COMMUNICATION DESIRABLE, JL HE planters are usually persons who possess a capital from two to twenty thousand pounds. With less than the former sum they cannot easily commence their career ; nor do they care to forsake it with less than the latter. They are generally enabled to procure credit with their merchant in uu 330 . STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE England for a sum proportionate to the value of their estate, by way of mortgage. This they draw for, as their necessities require, in bills at long dates. The Demerary planters at this time were held in high estimation and credit, from hav- ing had large crops and good prices for their produce. Specu- lation was. run throughout the colony. Very large engage- ments were entered into by the planters, and the general method of drawing on their correspondents was resorted to, to fulfil them. These drafts were drawn previously to the account of peace arriving, but the fate of the colonies being too well known in England, they met with dishonour, arid bills before noted for non acceptance at long sights were finally protested for non payment. Drafts to the amount of five hundred thousand pounds were returned in this state to the planters for re-payment, with an addition of twenty-five per cent, being the damages allowed by the Dutch laws on dishonoured drafts. Such a procedure created a demand on the planters of six hundred and twenty-five thousand pounds, which they had every reason to think would have been discharged in Eng- land ; they had also, relying on these engagements being ful- filled, entered into others equally extensive. The merchants apd manufacturers of England severely felt the loss of their remittances; the utmost confusion prevailed amongst the planters; and the only expedient which could be hit on to SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 331 disembarrass them, was to form connections with the agents of houses from Holland, who had now arrived in Demerary for that purpose. On the 3d December, 1802, the colonies were taken pos- session of by the Batavian troops, and citizen Anthony Meer- tens, a man of avowed French principles, and ostentatious in his dislike to the British, was sworn into the office of gover- nor in the presence of the military force, which consisted of two thousand men, under the command of Colonel DeMelle; they were as tine a body of men as any person would wish to see, but upwards of seven hundred of them, within the short space of nine months, fell victims to the climate and other connected causes. The intercourse with Holland being now completely es- tablished, all the shipments were made to that country, and a number of the English vessels revisited the colony under Dutch colors, established and possessed by British merchants, who had been induced to go and settle in Amsterdam and Rot- terdam, from the claims they had on these colonies. Every thing thus appearing in its regular train, and the mercantile connections being re-established with Holland, the dishonoured drafts were renewed by others on that country, and one good crop was expected to bring the planters round to their former respectability. But it was decreed otherwise ; for in May, u u 2 332 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE 1803, English newspapers were brought to the colony de- scribing the situation of affairs in Europe ; in June, an em- bargo took place on all the shipping, except the American vessels, who were now admitted by virtue of the governor's proclamation to a free trade. Two British vessels were de- tained, and the cargoes of those under Dutch colors were ordered to be landed. From the non arrival of vessels from Europe, the colonies were in the greatest distress, and in want of almost every thing. It was soon known through the medium of neutral vessels, that war was declared between England and France; and through the same channel also, as the packet letters were regularly sent from Barbadoes, that the bills drawn on Hol- land, in renewal of those dishonoured, were noted for non acceptance, and certainly would be protested at maturity, as no merchant in Holland would think of making any ad- vances to Demerary, &c. in time of war; the situation of the merchants and planters was really distressing. Bills re- turning on them every day, accompanied with pressing let- ters from England, praying that provision may be made for such bills. Under these teasing circumstances, suffering under a loss of two hundred and fifty thousand pounds, so large was the mere damages on the bills without interest and other expenses, which could not possibly be avoided from the nature of the business between the colonies and mother SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 333 country, accounts were daily reaching them of the capture of vessels homeward bound, with valuable cargoes, the amount of which being insured at a peace premium only against the risk of sea and weather, could of course not be recovered from the underwriters. The governor and council, to preserve the planters against the torrent of dishonoured paper, and suits in- stituted by the merchants for the recovery of their demands, found it necessary to stop the progress of justice, and close the courts for a few weeks, which was accordingly done, for hav- ing no vent for their produce, how could the planters derive advantage from it ? and from there being no fixed colonial price, it would not there be taken in payment. It is true that an order from the king and council was given to restore all produce belonging to British subjects which was cap- tured on its way home; but this was of little avail, as it was ac- companied with such restrictions that few of the sufferers were enabled to benefit from it. One stipulation was the making an affidavit, wherein the deponent must make oath that he is a British born subject ; that it was his intention to leave the colony within three years, the time allowed by the treaty of Amiens for the English inhabitants to wind up their aft'airs, and that, for this purpose, he or they had absolutely offered and made every attempt in their power to sell their estates. Now as this was far from the intention of most of the planters so situated, they could not consistently make the required depo- 334 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE sition, by which means three-fourtlis of them totally lost their captured property. The other proportion, by acceding to the stipulation proposed, recovered their produce, but in such a mutilated state, that what with the expenses and fees of of- fice attending the recovery, one half of the amount was ex- pended in recovering the other. Under these circumstances the total loss sustained by the peace of Amiens may be calcu- lated as follows : Damages on bills returned - - ^.250,000 Expences of law suits, noting, protesting, postage, interest, &c. - - - - , 10,000 Captures made by the British - - 1,000,000 oC. 1,260,000 Recovered by order of the king and council 125,000 «£.l, 135,000 This statement of facts, I should hope, will satisfactorily explain the causes of the late unpleasant situation of the co- lonies, and moreover, account to those connected with them, for the shortness of remittances which would in no way have been experienced had they remained under the British flag. But the repeated changes of their government, proved of very serious detriment to them. The loss of upwards of one million SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 335 one hundred thousand pounds sterUng to an infant settlement, would naturally be felt a long time after. On the colonies ca- pitulating to the British, in this present war, expectations were entertained that immediate remittances, to a large amount, would be made to Great Britain, but great obstacles occurred to prevent their accomplishment. From a drought, scarsely ever experienced before, in 1803—4, nearly the whole crop of plantains, the negroes chief food, failed, and those that came to perfection were purchased with avidity from three shillings and four-pence to five shillings per bunch, when the current price is only seven-pence halfpenny, and much better and larger in a good season than those which now sold at such an extravagant price. The plantations which had a large quantity of ground provisions, such as yams, sweet cassada, and potatoes, ochres, callallieu, peas, beans, &c. found their account in it. To make up the deficiency, large importa- tions were made from North America and the West India islands, of flour, rice, maize, &c. a quantity of the latter, however, was produced in the colonies, but not equal to the consumption. The importations within the twelve months may be computed as follows : — 30,000 barrels of flour, 6,000 hogsheads of rice, 1,000 puncheons of Indian corn ; all of which sold at immense high prices, and for cash or present bill. Thus these large and unexpected demands consumed the available part of the planters' funds intended for tlie liqui- dation of their debts. 336 • STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Considerable praise is due to the negroes for their orderly and good conduct throughout the scarsity, or rather famine ; the change of diet did not agree with them, though medical assistance, port wine, sago, &c. were administered with in- creased attention. The number of deaths was never equalled in the same space of time. On many estates, the negroes only worked half days, and were allowed the remainder of the time to fish, and attend to their own concerns. A circumstance which redounds to the honor of the court of justice at Demerary, I will relate. A Dutchman, well known on the east sea coast of that colony for the vulgarity of his person, coarseness of mind, and litigiousness of character, and possessing two clear unincumbered plantations, worked by three or four hundred negroes, was the only person during the scarsity convicted of ill treating them. It appeared that his ne- groes had been without provisions being served to them, a week or ten days, without any other cause being assigned for it than that flour was too dear. The poor fellows were continued at their work as usual, without any other food than that which they could pick up off their own grounds, or beg from their neighbours. Such was their situation, that incapable of sub- sisting any longer, they came to a determination to send a de- putation to wait on the fiscal, at Stabroek, to lay before him a state of the case, and request immediate assistance for their fellow sufferers. The fiscal conferred with the governor, and SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, StC. 337 an extraordinary court was called. The charges were made by the negroes, and supported by witnesses brought for that pur- pose; it was clearly proved that the proprietor might have purchased provisions for his negroes, but would not. The court declared him incapable, and an improper person to ma- nage his own affairs; they therefore appointed curators, or trus- tees, to superintend the estates, and bound him under a severe penalty and the displeasure of the court, to reside off the estate, and not interfere with the direction of the plantations, negroes, &c. the court making itself answerable for all the produce. A similar charge was brought against a Dutchman of Essequebo; suffice it to say, though he was a member of the honourable court of justice of that colony, he was fined fifteen thousand guilders. To prevent, if possible, ever such an occurrence again, the court of police revised and corrected the laws re- specting provisions, and made the penalties and fines so high, as to insure their being attended to. Sworn surveyors were sent round the colonies to measure all the plantain walks, and those estates which had not an acre of full grown plantains for every four negroes, had heavy penalties inflicted on them. This scarsity was by no means equally grievous in the shire of Surinam, where longer experience of the casualities of this climate had taught the planters better to proportion their gar- den-grounds to their farms. Yet it was not relieved and sup- plied by the spare produce of that district in the degree that X X 338 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE might be anticipated, for want of roads and internal channels of communication, along which to carry cheaply the proven- der to be distributed. There is also a want of draught-cattle : but this would soon be remedied, if ways were cleared and ferries established by the police. Paramaribo has not produced all that effect on the conti- guous settlements which might have been expected from its magnitude. It offers great resources not only to the mer- chant, but to the artificer. It is already mature for that se- condary order of settlers, who are no longer occupied in stocking plantations and raising produce, but in distributing the comforts and accommodations of domestic life. From a want of inland conveyance, and easy communications through the interior, the luxury of Paramaribo cannot diffuse itself over the adjoining country. Each separate river insensibly forms for itself a sea-port near its mouth, which becomes a market for produce, and a warehouse of supply to all the estates upon its banks. But of cross country roads, of intercourse over the savannahs between one river and its neighbours, there is as yet little thought ; although the district seems adapted for a chain of canals, which might unite far inland each river with the next, and make a second China of this most fertile and most improveable coast. A stabile annexation to the British crown once accomplished, this country will become the pride of. South America. .,,.-.,. SETTLEMENTS" OiN'THEDEMERAkY, &C. 339 I do not know Paramaribo as yet more than cursorily; although I have some hopes of eventually settling there. It is built on a sand-reef, well arranged, "and the streets include beautiful alleys of orange and lemon trees. The houses are of wood, and have no chimnies ; the kitchens, for coolness sake, are detached ; it is a town far advanced in the arts of civilized life, above a mile in length, wide in proportion, and swarm- ing already with an ever-thickening croud of many coloured inhabitants. The population of Paramaribo is estimated at eighteen or twenty thousand persons. Of these, the larger half, at least ten thousand persons, are negro and mulatto slaves. The free people of color are supposed to be about four thou- sand. There are from two to three thousand German and Portuguese jews ; and about eighteen hundred English and Dutch Europeans. The number of temporary residents, as in all sea ports, varies with the season. Paramaribo is the Buenos Ayres of Guyana, the residence of all the native wealth, and the storehouse of what is most curious and precious among the productions of Europe. But In Buenos Ayres the catholic religion is exclusively established, and has splendid cathedrals and pompous processions to exhibit, in which the native In- dians take great delight ; while in Paramaribo, an unlimited toleration prevails, the jew, the catholic, the protestant, the deist, the heathen, visit or neglect at pleasure their respective opportunities of worship, and view with a reciprocal and friendly complacence, the varieties of their traditional observ- X X 2 ^40 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ances. That political equality of all sects of opinion, which in Europe was unfortunately almost always confined to Hol- land, has been one of the great benefits conferred on Guyana by the laws of the United Netherlands, A congregation of French refugees, two sects of jews, a congregation of Labadists patronized by governor Somelsdyk, are among the earliest knots of settlers enumerated. Religious liberty has been the chief cause of the rapid colonization of the North American pro- vinces, and if steadily preserved in Guyana, will no doubt bestow on it a like populousness and importance. Those ec- clesiastical feuds which excite so much bitterness in the old world, are here unknown ; nor is practical morality placed in the insignificant observance of Sunday gloom, of continence* and of not swearing, but in the liberal virtues of spirit and beneficence. There is perhaps a point of view in which a priesthood more numerous could be rendered useful, namely, as instructors of the young ; the want of good schools renders it at present expedient to educate young men of family in Europe. This, however, preserves an attachment for the me- tropolitan country, and circulates its manners in the colonies. One of the most remarkable places of worship in this town is a negro-chapel, supported by six German missionaries, called Hernhootei-s, or Moravians. They have translated the bible and a book of hymns into the talkee-talkee, or negro language, of which they have also composed a grammar. Service is per- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 341 formed on Tuesday and Friday evenings, and three times on a Sunday. I went one evening — the place was elegantly lighted up. There is an organ, and the rites began by music. Two lines of a hymn were read distinctly by the priest, which the whole congregation repeated immediately after in full chorus to a prepared tune ; then two lines more ; and so on till the poem was finished. Next followed lessons from the bible; another hymn; a prayer; a third hymn; and finally a sermon, which terminated in some devotional ejaculation, dur- ihg which all the people kneeled. The audience, which was very numerous and very orderly, was dismissed by the organ's sounding unaccompanied. These Moravians are the only re- ligionists, who have made any progress in converting the ne- groes hereabouts. It is curious that the talkee-talkee, or patois of the blacks, though it includes many African words, should have for its basis the English language, pared of inflections, and softened by a multitude of vowel terminations. That the mass of creole population here on the continent, and under foreign sway, should still have been reared and taught beneath English masters and overseers, is no slight proof of the superior enterprize of our colonists, and humanity of our slave-drivers. . The shore of Guyana may first have been seen by the Spaniards, but it can hardly be said to have been explored until Sir Walter Raleigh's visits, which circulated a knowlege of the coast, and occasioned some English buccaneers to seek 342 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE residences there. In 1634' about sixty persons, several of them Frenchmen, under the presidency of a captain Marshall, had constructed dwellings on the banks of the Surinam, where they grew tobacco. Like many actual planters of the Missis- sippi, they went great part of the year to sea, selling their pro- duce, and making freight of their ships, but regularly returned to sow and to reap, and deposited here the collections of their industry. In the year 1650, this voluntary setdement was thought worthy of being attended to ; and Lord Willoughby, of Parham, was appointed governor, to whom certain char- tered rights were given, in conjunction with the Earl of Cla- rendon's second son. But in 1661, the Dutch took this settle- ment by surprize ; and obtained the entire cession of it in 1674, by the treaty of Westminster, in exchange for the pro- vince of New York ; an unwise, a deplorable commutation. The first Dutch settlers at Paramaribo, or Middelburg, as it was then called, were from the province of Zealand ; but the States granted the colony to the West India Company, which in its turn sold a third share to the corporation of Amsteldam, and a third to Cornelius Van Aarsen, lord of Somelsdyk. This nobleman went out as governor, taking with him some con- victs sentenced to hard labor, and about three hundred volun- tary emigrants. He was not a popular governor ; he instituted indeed an elective court of police, but claimed a degree of power over his fellow settlers, which they were only wil- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 343 ling to concede to him in the management of their exterior concerns. He treated skilfully with the Indians, but ruled the troops so despotically, and imposed fatigues so insufferable under a tropical sun, that he was massacred by the conspiracy of twelve soldiers, in the year 1688, About this time it is re- corded there were six hundred Dutch families settled along the Surinam. The widow of Somelsdyk offered to transfet her third of the colonial allotments to our king William III. but the offer was not accepted. A French admiral, Cassard, plundered this settlement in 1712, levying on Paramaribo a contribution of fifty-five thousand pounds sterling. He ascended the river beyond the town, and set fire to many estates. The confusion prevalent at this period facilitated the desertion of a great many negroes. It is common in Africa for negroes who dislike work to withdraw from their masters and live in the woods, like gipsies, or in a state of still greater wildness and privation. Near the Cape, there are kraals or villages of such, who are called bush men, from their living in the thicket. Some desertions of this kind took place while the English possessed Surinam, and a regular settlement of maroons, or wild negroes, was formed between the Copenam and Sarameca rivers. But about the 344 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THP. year 1725, these maroon or bush-negroes were become so numerous by the accession of fresh runaways, and by the natural fertility of their women, that they rendered the pro- perties of the whites very insecure. They would go in bands to plunder an estate, to carry off powder and fire-arms, and to release such slaves as would join them. A great deal of land once under cultivation and very productive, has thus been conquered to liberty and desolation. Troops were sent for to Europe in order to quell these insurgents. In 1730, the ring- leaders were taken and barbarously executed. Even women were tortured to death. Cruelty is always impolitic. A series of retaliations, at which humanity sickens, ensued. White planters were in their turns hooked on trees, or roasted alive. Property became valueless for want of security. The expe- dient of treating with the bush-negroes was at length resorted to by governor Maurice in 1749. A creole negro named Adoe, was the rebel chieftain. On certain conditions of tri- bute he agreed to make peace with the governor : and exacted as one stipulation, a regular supply of powder and fire-arms. This treaty was ratified by an exchange of presents. It appeared afterwards that Adoe was but a petty chieftain; Another rebel, called Zamzam, still continued to demand con- tributions. In 1753 Baron Spoke, in 1757 Mr. Cromelyn, succeeded to the governorship : both adopted the system of^ SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &c. 3i5 pacifying the negroes by occasional presents. At length a cliieftain, named Araby, acquired so extensive an authority that he could influence the conduct of all the wild negroes. He was taken into pay by the whites, and in 1761 signed the treaty of Ouca, which was generally respected. The plantations now began to recover some value, and many forsaken estates were again inhabited. The West India com- pany renewed their charter, at the expense of advancing to the Dutch government about five millions sterling. In 1763,- Paramaribo suffered from fire : the activity of the sailors alone prevented a general conflagration : fire is truly tremendous where the upper part of the houses is of wood. The distress occasioned by this accident obliged government to issue a sort of paper money, consisting of stamped cards : this first issue was for forty thousand pounds sterling ; but there is now much paper money in the colonies, which is received in payment of the taxes, and is widely convenient. A more remarkable and far more extensive conflagration than that of Paramaribo took place in 1169, when the whole coast was on fire progressively from the Surinam to the Deme- rary. The flames were supposed to have been unintentionally kindled by the rebel negroes ; but they spread with marvellous continuity, licking up vast forests, and laying waste wide plantations. Yy 346 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE In 1770 the house of Somelsdyk sold its portion of the colony to the city of Amsteldam for sixty thousand pounds: but this is no exact criterion of the general prosperity. The administrative bodies often derive least from a country when it is internally thrifty and flourishing. About 1772 the Cottica rebels began to collect; they were opposed by a rifle corps of picked negroes, bought of the planters for the purpose of being trained to arms. It was this alarming insurrection which gave occasion to the expedition narrated in so instructive and interesting a manner by captain Stedman. The general relaxation of severity in the treatment of negroes, the increased proportion of Creole vassalry, who are formed from their very birth to the habits and requisitions of the European planters, the growing knowlege of negro tempers, opinions, and dispositions, the more certain and wholesome system of nutriment, the more liberal allowances of tobacco, rum, and similar luxuries, and the real diminu- tion of hard and unpleasant labor, which the progress of set- tlement and the introduction of machinery necessarily prepare, seem likely to put an end to these long hostilities. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 547 CHAPTER XVII. EXTRACTS FROM SIR WALTER RALEGH's RELATION OF HIS FIRST VOYAGE TO GUYANA TRINIDAD, OR CAIRI THE ESSEQUEBO COAST THE RIVER ORINOKO. A AM persuaded it will be agreeable to my readers, especi- ally to my colonial readers, if I insert, from Sir Walter Ra- legh's first voyage to these parts, an account of his discoveries along the coast of Guyana : it stamps a sort of Englishness on the shore, to have the first accounts of its rivers and inhabi- tants to seek in the relations of English navigators. "On Thursday, J'ebruary 6th, in the year 1595, we de- parted England, and the Sunday following, had sight of the north cape of Spain, the wind for the most part continuing prosperous. We passed in sight of the Burlings and the rock, and so onward for the Canaries, and fell in with Fuerte Ventura the 17th of the same month, where we spent two or three days, and relieved our companies with some fresh meat. Thence we coasted by the Gran Canaria, and so to TenerifFe, and stayed there for the Lion's Whelp, and for captain Amias Preston, and Y y 2 348 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE the rest. But when after seven or eight days we found them not, we departed and directed our course for Trinidado, with mine own ship and a small bark of captain Cross' only. *'We arrived at Trinidado, March 22d, casting anchor at Point Curiapan, which the Spaniards call Punto de Gallo, which is situate in 8°, or thereabout. We abode there four or five days, and in all that time we came not to the speech of any Spaniard. From Curiapan I came to a port and seat of Indians called Parico, where we found a fresh-water river, but saw no people. From thence I rowed to another port called by the naturals Piche, and by the Spaniards Tierra de Brea. In the way between both were divers little brooks of fresh water, and one salt river that had store of oysters upon the branches of the trees, and were very salt and well tasted. All their oysters grow upon those boughs and sprays, and not on the ground ; the like is commonly seen in the West Indies and elsewhere. " At this point called Tierra de Brea or Piche, there is that abundance of stone pitch, that all the ships of the world may be therewith laden from thence. We made trial of it, in trimming our ships, to be most excellent good, and melteth not with the sun as the pitch of Norway, and therefore for ships trading to the south parts it is very profitable. Thence we went to the mountain foot called Annaperima, and so pass- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 349 ing the river Carone, on which the Spanish city was seated, we met with our ships at Puerto do los Hispanioles, or Con- querabia. " This island of Trinidado hath the form of a sheep-hook, and is but narrow ; the north part is very mountainous, the soil is very excellent, and will bear sugar, ginger, or any other commodity that the Indies yield. It hath store of deer, wild porks, fruits, fish, and fowl. It hath also for bread suf- ficient mals, cassavi, and of those roots and fruits which are common everywhere in the West Indies. It hath divers beasts which the Indies have not. The Spaniards confessed that they found grains of gold in some of the rivers, but they hav- ing a purpose to enter Guiana (the magazine of rich metals) cared not to spend time in the search thereof any farther. This island is called by the people thereof Cairi, and in it are divers nations ; those about Parico are called laio, those at Punto Carao are of the Arwacas, and between Carao and Cu- riapan they are called Salvaios, between Carao and Punto Ga- lera are the Nepoios, and those about the Spanish city term themselves Carinepagotos. " The same evening there stole aboard of us, in a small canoe, two Indians, the one of them being a cassique, or lord of people, called Cantyman, who had the year before been with captain "Whiddon, and was of his acquaintance. By this Can- 850 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE tyman we understood what strength the Spaniards had, how far it was to their city, and of Don Antonio de Berreo the go- vernor, who was said to be slain in his second attempt of Guiana, but was not. While we remained at Puerto de los Hispanioles, some Spaniards came aboard us to buy Unen of the company, and such other things as they wanted, and also to view our ships and company ; all which I entertained kindly, and feasted after our manner. By means whereof, I learned, of one and other, as much of the estate of Guiana as I could, or as they knew. " I sent captain Whiddon, the year before, to get what knowlege he could of Guiana ; and the end of my journey, at this time, was to discover and enter the same. But my in- telligence was far from truth ; for the country is situate above six hundred English miles farther from the sea than I was made believe it had been. " But because there may arise many doubts, and how this empire of Guiana is become so populous, and adorned with so many great cities, towns, temples, and treasures, I thought good to make it known, tliat the emperor now reigning is descended from those magnificent princes of Peru, of whose large territories, of whose policies, conquests, edifices, and riches, Pedro de Cieza, Francisco Lopez, and others, have written large discourses. For when Francisco Pacaro, Diego SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 351 Almagro, and others, conquered the said empire of Peru, and had put to death Atabalipa, son to Guaynacapa, (which Ata- bahpa had formerly caused his eldest brother Guascar to be slain), one of the younger sons of Guaynacapa fled out of Peru, and took with him many thousands of those soldiers of the empire called Orciones, and with those, and many others which followed him, he vanquished all that tract and valley of America which is situate between the great rivers of Am- azons and Baraquan, otherwise called Maranyon, and Orinoko. " The empire of Guiana is directly east from Peru toward the sea, and lieth under the equinoctial line, and it hath more abundance of gold than any part of Peru, and as many, or more great cities than ever Peru had when it flourished most. It is governed by the same laws, and the emperor and people observe the same religion, and the same form and policies in government, as was used in Peru, not dift'ering in any part. And, as I have been assured by such of the Spaniards as have seen Manoa, the imperial city of Guiana, which the Spaniards call El Dorado, for the greatness, the riches, and for the ex- cellent seat, far exceedeth any of the world, at least of so much of the world as is known to the Spanish nation. It is founded upon a lake of salt water of two hundred leagues long, like unto Mare Caspium ; and if we compare it to that of Peru, and but read the report of Francisco Lopez, and others, it will seem more than credible. 352 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE *' Such of the Spaniards as afterward endeavoured the con- quest thereof (whereof there have been many, as shall be de- clared hereafter) thought that this Inga (of whom this emperor now living is descended) took his way by the river of Ama- zons, by that branch which is called Papamene. For by that way followed Oreliano, (by the commandment of the marquis Pacarro, in the year 1542) whose name the river also beareth this day, which is also by otiiers called Maragnon, although Andrew Thevet doth affirm, that between Maragnon and Amazons, there are one hundred and twenty leagues. But sure it is, that those rivers have one head and beginning, and that Maragnon, which Thevet describeth, is but a branch of Amazons, or Oreliano, of which I will speak more in another place. It was also attempted by Diego Ordace, but whether before Oreliano, or after, I know not. But it is now little less than seventy years since that Ordace, a knight of the order of saint Jago, attempted the same, and it was in the year 1542, that Oreliano discovered the river of Amazons. But the first that ever saw Manoa was Johannes Marlines, master of the munition to Ordace. At a port called Morequito. in Guiana, there lieth, at this day, a great anchor of Ordace's ship ; and this port is some three hundred miles within the land, upon the great river of Orinoko. *' After Oreliano (who was employed by Pacaro, afterward marquis Pacaro, conqueror and governor of Peru), and the SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 353 death of Ordace and Marlines, one Pedro de Osua, a knight of Navarre, attempted Guiana, taking his way from Peru, and built his brigantines upon a river called Oia, which riseth to the southward of Quito, and is very great. This river falleth into Amazons, by which Osua, with his companies, descended, and came out of that province which is called Mutylones; and it seemeth to me, that this empire is reserved for her Ma- jesty and the English nation, by reason of the hard success which all these and other Spaniards found in attempting the same. ** Although, as I am persuaded, Guiana cannot be entered by the Maranyon, yet no doubt the trade of gold from thence passeth by branches of rivers into the river of Ama2ons, and so it doth on every hand far from the country itself. For those Indians of Trinidado have plates of gold from Guiana, and those cannibals of Dominica who dwell in the islands by which our ships pass yearly to the West Indies, also the In- dians of Paria, those Indians called Tucaris, Chochi, Apoto- mios, Cumanagotos, and all those other nations inhabiting near about the mountains that run from Paria through the province of Vensuello, and in Maracapana, and the cannibals of Gua- nipa, the Indians called Assawai, Coaca, Aiai, and the rest (all which shall be described in my description as they are situate) have plates of gold of Guiana. And upon the river of Amazons, Thevet writeth, that the people wear croissants of gold, for of that form the Guianians most commonly make them. z z 354 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE " I made enquiry among the most ancient and best travelled of the Oronoqueponi, and I had knowlege of all the rivers be- tween Orinoko and Amazons, and was very desirous to un- derstand the truth of those warlike women, because of some it is believed, of others not. " Berreo affirmed, that there fell one hundred rivers into Orinoko from the north and south, whereof the least was as big as Rio Grande, that passeth between Popayan and Nuevo Reyno de Granada (Rio Grande being esteemed one of the most renowned rivers in all the West Indies, and numbered among the great rivers of the world). But he knew not the names of any of these but Caroli only, neither from what na- tions they descended, neither to what provinces they led, for he had no means to discourse with the inhabitants at any time ; neither was he curious in these things, being utterly unlearned, and not knowing the east from the west. " Among many other trades, those Spaniards used in canoes to pass to the rivers of Barema,* Pawroma, and Essequebo, which are on the south side of the mouth of Orinoko, and there buy women and children from the cannibals, which are of that barbarous nature, as they will for three or. four hatchets sell the sons and daughters of their own brethren and sisters, * Probably Barema is the Demerary, and Pawroma the Pomaroon. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 355 and, for somewhat more, even their own daughters. Hereof the Spaniards make great profit ; for, buying a maid of twelve or thirteen years for three or four hatchets, they sell them again at Marguerita in the West Indies for fifty and a hundred pesoes, which is so many crowns. " The master of my ship, John Douglas, took one of the canoes which came laden from thence with people to be sold, and the most of them escaped, yet of those he brought, there was one as well favoured, and as well shaped, as ever I saw any in England ; and afterward I saw many of them, which but for their tawny color may be compared to any of Europe. They also trade in those rivers for bread of cassavi, of which they buy one hundred pound weight for a knife, and sell it at Marguerita for ten pesoes. They also recover great store of cotton, brasil-wood, and those beds which they call hamacas, or brasil-beds, wherein in hot countries all the Spaniards use to lie commonly, and in no other, neither did we ourselves while we were there. * We could not learn of Berreo any other way to enter but in branches, so far to the windward as it was impossible for us to recover. For we had as much sea to cross over in our wherries as between Dover and Calais, and in a great billow, the wind and current being both very strong. So as we were driven to go in those small boats directly before the wind into z z 2 556 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE the bottom of the bay of Guanipa, and thence to enter the mouth of some one of those rivers, which John Douglas had last discovered, and had with us for pilot an Indian of Barema, a river to the south of Orinoko, between that and Amazons, whose canoes we had formerly taken as he was going from the said Barema laden with cassavi bread to sell at Margue- rita. This Arwacan promised to bring me into the great river of Orinoko, but indeed of that which we entered we was ut- terly ignorant. " But thus it chanced, that entering into a river, (which, because it had no name, we called the river of the Red-cross, ourselves being the first Christians that ever came therein) the 2'2d of May, as we were rowing up the same, we espied a small canoe with three Indians, which (by the swiftness of my barge, rowing with eight oars) I overtook ere they could cross the river. The rest of the people on the banks shadowed under the thick wood gazed on with a doubtful conceit what might befal those three which we had taken. But when they perceived that we offered them no violence, neither entered their canoe with any of ours, nor took out of the canoe any of theirs, they then began to show themselves on the bank's side, and olFered to traffic with us for such things as they had. And as we drew near they all staid, and we came with our barge to the mouth of a little creek which came from their town into the great river. Those people which dwell in these broken SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 357 islands and drowned lands are generally called Tivitivas ; there are of them two sorts, the one called Ciawani, and the other "Waraweete. " These Tivitivas are a very goodly people, and very va- liant, and have the most manly speech and most deliberate that ever I heard of what nation soever. In the summer they have houses on the ground as in other places. In the winter they dwell upon the trees, where they build very artificial towns and villages. For between May and September the river of Orinoko riseth thirty feet upright, and then are those islands overflown twenty feet high above the level of the ground, saving some few raised grounds in the middle of them ; and for this cause they are enforced to live in this manner. They never eat of any thing that is set or sown, and as at home they use neither planting nor other manurance, so when they come abroad they refuse to feed of aught, but of that which nature without labor bringeth forth. They use the tops of palmitos for bread, and kill deer, fish, and porks, for the rest of their sustenance. They have also many sorts of fruits that grow in the woods, and great variety of birds and fowl. " And if to speak of them were not tedious and vulgar, surely we saw in those passages of very rare colors and forms, not elsewhere to be found, for as much as 1 have cither seen 358 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE or read. Of these people, those tliat dwell upon the branches of Orinoko, called Capuri and Macureo, are for the most part carpenters of canoes, for they make the most and fairest houses, and sell them into Guiana for gold, and into Trinidado for tobacco, in the excessive taking whereof they exceed all nations. When their commanders die they use great lamen- tation, and when they think the flesh of their bodies is putri- fied, and fallen from the bones, then they take up the carcase again, and hang it in the cassique's house that died, and deck his skull with feathers of all colours, and hang all his gold plates about the bones of his arms, thighs, and legs. Those nations which are called Arwacas, which dwell on the south of Orinoko (of which place and nation our Indian pilot was), are dispersed in many other places, and do use to beat the bones of their lords into powder, and their wives and friends drink it all in their several sorts of drinks. After we departed from the port of these Ciawani, we passed up the river with the flood, and anchored the ebb, and in this sort we went on- ward. "That night we came to an anchor at the parting of three goodly rivers (the one was the river of Amana, by which we came from the north, and ran athwart toward the south, the other two were of Orinoko, which crossed from the west, and ran to sea toward the east) and landed upon a fair sand, where we found thousands of tortoises' eggs, which are very whole- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, kc. 359 some meat, and greatly restoring ; so as our men were now well filled, and highly contented both with the fare, and near- ness of the land of Guiana, which appeared in sight. In the morning there came down, according to promise, the lord of that border called Tpparimaca, with some thirty or forty fol- lowers, and brought us divers sorts of fruits, and of his winC/ bread, fish, and flesh, whom we also feasted as we could ; at least he drank good Spanish wine, (whereof we had a small quantity in bottles) which above all things they love; " I conferred with this Toparimaca of the next way to Gui- ana, who conducted our galley and boats to his own port, and carried us from thence some mile and a half to his town, where some of our captains caroused of his wine till they were reasonably pleasant, for it is very strong with pepper, and the juice of divers herbs and fruits digested and purged. They keep it in great earthen pots of ten or twelve gallons, very clean and sweet, and are themselves at their meetings and feasts the greatest carousers and drunkards of the world. "When we came to this town we found two cassiques, whereof one of them was a stranger that had been up the river in trade, and his boats, people, and wife, encamped at the port where we anchored, and the other was of that country, a follower of Toparimaca. They lay each of them in a cotton hammock, which we call brasil-beds, and two women attending them with six cups and a little ladle to fill them, out of an earthen 560 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE pitcher of wine, and so they drank each of them three of those cups at a time, one to the other ; and in this sort they get drunk at their feasts and meetings. "The seat of this town of Toparimaca was very pleasant, standing on a little hill, in an excellent prospect, with goodly gardens, a mile compass round about it, and two very fair and large ponds of excellent fish adjoining. This town is called Arowocai ; the people are of the nation called N^poios, and are followers of Carapana. In that place I saw very aged people, that we might perceive all their sinews and veins without any flesh, and but even as a case covered only with skin. The lord of this place gave me an old man for pilot, who was of great experience and travel, and knew their river most perfectly both by day and night. " The next day we hasted thence, and having an easterly wind to help us, we spared our arms from rowing ; for, after we entered Orinoko, the river lleth for the most part east and west, even from the sea unto Quito in Peru. This river is na- vigable with ships little less than one thousand miles, and, from the place where we entered, it may be sailed up in small pinnaces to many of the best parts of Nuevo Reyno de Gra- nado, and of Popayan. And from no place may the cities of these parts of the Indies be so easily taken and invaded as hence. All that day we sailed up a brancli of that river, hav- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, kc. 36\ ing on the left hand a great island, which they call Assapana, which may contain some twenty-five miles in length, and six miles in breadth, the great body of the river running on the other side of this island. Beyond that middle branch, there is also another island in the river, called Iwana, which is twice as big as the Isle of Wight ; and beyond it, and between it and the main Guiana, runneth a third branch of Orinoko called Arraroopana. All three are goodly branches, and all navigable for great ships. I judge the river in this place to be at least thirty miles broad, reckoning the islands which divide the branches in it ; for afterward I sought also both the other branches. " After we reached to the head of this island, called Assa- pana, a little to the westward on the right hand, there opened a river which came from the north, called Europa, and fell into the great river ; and beyond it, on the same side, we an- chored for that night, by another island six miles long, and two miles broad, which they call Ocawita. From hence, in the morning, we landed two Guianians, which we found in the town of Toparimaca, that came with us, who went to give notice of our coming to the lord of that country, called Putyma, a follower of Topiawari, chief lord of Arromai, who succeeded Morequito. But his town being far within the land, he came not unto us that day, so as we anchored again that night near the banks of another island, of bigness much like A a a 362 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE the other, which they call Putapayma, on the main land, over- against which island was a very high mountain called Oecope. We coveted to anchor rather by these islands in the river, than by the main, because of the tortoises' eggs, which our people found on them in great abundance, and also because the ground served better for us to cast our nets for fish, the main banks being for the most part stony and high, and the rocks of a blue metalline colour, like unto the best steel ore, which I assuredly take it to be. Of the same blue stone are also divers great mountains, which border this river in many places. " The next morning toward nine of the clock we weighed anchor, and the breeze increasing, we sailed alway west up the river, and after a while opening the land on the right side, the country appeared to be champaign, and the banks shewed very perfect red. And my old pilot, a man of great travel, brother to the cassique Toparimaca, told me, that those were called the plains of the Sayma ; and that the same level reached to Cumana and Carracas, in the West Indies, which are one hundred and twenty leagues to the north, and that there inhabited four principal nations. The first were the Sayma, the next Assawai, the third and greatest the Wikiri, the fourth are called Aroras, and are as black* as negroes, but * That there were black nations aboriginally in America, is also affirmed in some Portuguese voyages. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 363 have smooth hair, and these are very valiant, or rather des- perate people, and have the most strong poison on their ar- rows, and most dangerous of all nations. But by this time as well Orinoko, Caroli, as all the rest of the rivers were risen four or five feet in height, so as it was not possible by the strength of any men, or with any boat whatsoever, to row into the river against the stream. " When we ran to the tops of the first hills of the plain ad- joining to the river, we beheld that wonderful breach of waters which ran down Caroli ; and might from that mountain see the river, how it ran in three parts above twenty miles off, and there appeared some ten or twelve overfalls in sight, every one as high over the other as a church-tower, which fell with that fury that the rebound of waters made it seem, as if it had been all covered over with a great shower of rain ; and in some places we took it at the first for a smoke that had risen over some great town. " I never saw a more beautiful country, nor more lively prospects, hills so raised here and there over the vallies, the river winding into divers branches, the plains adjoining with- out bush or stubble, all fair green grass, the ground of hard sand easy to march on either for horse or foot, the deer cross- ing in every path, the birds toward the evening singing on every tree with a thousand several tunes, cranes and herons, A a a 2 364 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE of white, crimson, and carnation, perching on the river's side, the air fresh with a gentle easterly wind, and every stone that we stooped to take up, promised either gold or silver by its complexion. " Having learned what I could in Canuri and Aromaia, and received a faithful promise of the principalest of those pro- vinces to become servants to her Majesty, and to resist the Spaniards if they made any attempt in our absence, and that they would draw-in the nations about the lake of Cassipa, and those Iwarawakeri, I then parted from old Topiawari, and re- ceived his son for a pledge between us, and left with him two of ours. To Francis Sparrow I gave instructions to travel to Macureguarai, with such merchandize as I left with him, thereby to learn the place, and if it were possible to go on to the great city of Manoa, Which being done, we weighed anchor, and coasted the river on Guiana-side, because we came up on the north-side, by the lawns of the Saima and Wikiri. ** The next day we landed on the island of Assapana, (which divideth the river from that branch by which we went down to Emeria) and there feasted ourselves with that beast which is called armadilla, presented unto us before at Winica- pora. And the day following, we recovered the galley at an- chor at the port of Toparimaca, and the same evening de- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 365 parted witli very foul weather and terrible thunder and showers, for the whiter was come on very far. The longer we tarried the worse it was, and therefore I took captain Gifford, captain Cal field, and my cousin Greenville, into my barge, and after it cleared up about midnight, we put ourselves to God's keeping, and thrust out into the sea, leaving the galley at an- chor, who durst not adventure but by day light. And so be- ing all very sober and melancholy, one faintly cheering ano- ther to shew courage, it pleased God that the next day about nine of the clock, we descried the island of Trinidado; and steering for the nearest part of it, we kept the shore till we came to Curiapan, where we found our ships at anchor, than which there was never to us a more joyful sight." Thus it happened that almost the same stations were taken for the purpose of exploring the land, which empire must oc- cupy, and in the same order, for the purpose of colonizing and civilizing the region. At first a great permanent position is taken at Trinidad. Next, the mouths of the Pomaroon, of the Essequebo, of the Demerary, and of the Surinam, are noticed ; and lastly, the right bank of the Orinoko is .to be undertaken, as far as the important and wealthy set- .tlement of San Thomas. S66 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE CHAPTER XVIII. OF GUYANA IN GENERAL — WHAT CAN BE DONE FOR GUY- ANA ? — OCCUPY CAYENNE NEGOTIATE WITH PORTUGAL FOR THE CESSION OF THE NORTHERN BANK OF THE MA- RANYO RESTORE BUENOS AYRES TO SPAIN FOR THE MORE VALUABLE DISTRICTS ALONG THE ORINOKO IN- ;^ CREASE THE SPLENDOR OF THE INTERIOR GOVERNMEN- TAL ESTABLISHMENT SURVEY THE COUNTRY SCIENTI- FICALLY IMPORT CHINESE COLONISTS. 'UYANA has a form nearly triangular, and is computed to contain a quarter of a million of square miles. It is bounded on the north-east by the Atlantic ocean ; on the south by the Maranyo, or river of Amazons, and on the west by the river Orinoko. In a journey through the interior of South Ame- rica, performed in 1743, Condamine learned the singular fact that the Orinoko sends several branch-streams into the Ma- ranyo, although their principal mouths are above seven hun- dred miles asunder. Of these branches the Yupura is com- monly considered as forming the western verge of Guyana, which is thus completely insulated, and is probably circumna- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 367 vjgable. This prodigious extent of river-coast is no less adapted for every variety of tropical production, than the brink of the Nile, or Ganges. But some European colonies must be founded at the confluences of the chief streams, be- fore those agricultural arts can be put in motion, to which the climate and the soil of this province are so admirably adapted. Millions of men might be fed and employed by the produce of its fertile savannas. As yet the interior of the district has been little penetrated. A chain of mountains, called Mei, nearly parallel with the form of the coast, and a lake called Parima, whose extent va- ries with the seasons, form the only prominent objects of ob- servation. From these mountains, rivers radiate in every di- rection : some, like the Essequebo, fall into the Atlantic ; some, like the Caroni, or as Sir Walter Ralegh calls it, the Caroli, join the Orinoko ; and some, like the Rioblanco, unite with the river of Amazons. Savage tribes, resembling in manners the Caribbees, but whose dialects difl'er from each other, are thinly scattered over the whole district : they de- pend more on fishing than hunting, and prefer to frequent the edges of the waters ; their labor is most easily obtained for purposes of navigation. The climate of Guyana is the mildest and most wholesome of any tropical country hitherto inhabited by Europeans. This 358 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE may be ascribed principally to its receiving the trade-wind fresh from the surface of a vast track of ocean. Thus a per- petual stream of cool air from the east overflows Guyana; wliile, on the opposite coast of Africa, the same equatorial wind, blowing over land, comes laden with the pestilential sultriness of sandy deserts. Beside the perpetual general flow of the whole atmosphere westward, it has a lateral fluctuation daily, termed the sea-breeze and the land-breeze. The sea- breeze, which is the cooler of the two, blows from the north- east during the day, and temperates its ardor ; so that we have less heat at noon than at nine in the morning. The land- breeze, which is the warmer of the two, blows from the south-east during the night, and prevents too rapid a chillness. The weather is even, as well as temperate. The heavy dews, the sunshine, the clouds, the rains, which prevail especially from May to November, and water the lands for about three hours every afternoon, always happen according to expecta- tion. The almanack maker, without being a wizard, is here a prophet. No hurricanes intervene to snatch from the planter his crops ; nor do I recollect a drought. The great superio- rity of the Guyana coast to the Caribbee islands, which are exposed to the tempestuous edge and border of the trade-wind, in point of wholesomeness and of security from casualties, is now so well known, that it operates as an increasing motive with the West Indians, to transfer their vassals and machinery to the continent. If the cheapness of sugar should continue. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERAEY, kc. 369 it can still be cultivated with a profit in Guyana, while the island planters will incur absolute ruin. The rapid mortality of their slaves, the capricious visitations of the hurricane, the great risk of drought, and especially the vast expense of re- moving, by means of mules, the produce from the field, which is here accomplished by water-carriage, operate as heavy draw-backs on their profits, which an interruption of their intercourse with North America may at any time anni- hilate. Earthquakes are sometimes felt in Guyana ; but they are never formidable in the lowlands and flat regions, where alone there are settlements. Inundations are more frcquCnt and more destructive accidents ; but as the forests beside the rivers waste, these floods are observed to become seldomer. Pestilence is very rare. The Carribbee islands, especially the more northern, are as much overvalued in Great Britain, as the continent is under- valued. They have ceased to be of use: they have per- formed their appointed task in the civilization of the world. Without first undertaking the cultivation of sugar in small islands, whence the African labourers could not run away ;. there would have been no possibility of rearing and training a Creole peasantry, adapted for the coasts of the West Indian archipelago. The blacks, whom it was attempted to inure on the continent to agricultural toil, deserted incessantly, as they do in the neighbourhood of the Cape, and formed their B bb 370 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE kraals, or gipsey villages, of bush negroes, who were always ready to harbour discontented slaves, and to conspire with them for plundering and burning the plantations, and murder- ing the persons, of the whites. This Creole peasantry is at length reared. Innumerable negroes are now grown up in the West Indies, who have never known the satisfaction of sloth and independence, and who have no idea of any other possible manner of subsistence, than that of working regularly for the planter who issues their allowances. These home-born negroes, when transplanted to the continent, do not desert into the wilderness ; they prefer the regular task of moderate toil, and the certain and comfortable maintenance it insures, to the privations and hazards of the savage state. But the sooner this Creole peasantry is transferred from the Carribbee islands to the continent of Guyana the better. For the same number of la- bourers can produce every commodity of the Carribbee islands more cheaply and abundantly, and with less exertion on the main land. While uncleared, the islands are rapidly depo- pulated by contagious disorders ; and when cleared, become barren from drought ; so that there is always a superfluous ex- pense to incur for the waste of labourers, or for the deficiency of crops. These islands, therefore, should in preference, be ceded to France and Holland, if any thing must be restored ; or by the artificial discouragement of their agriculture, be in- duced to transfer to Guyana the mass of their population and capital. SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 371 The central parts of Guyana not having been visited by any missionaries, the religion of nature still prevails there. Certain vapors, or spirits, to which the savages ascribe thunders and fevers, are the objects of their fear and propitiatory worship. They do not ascribe a human form to these divinities, but conceive them to have brought hither the first man, whom they call Longwo; their heathenism is not yet advanced to idolatry. The catholic religion flourishes in the western and southern borders of Guy- ana; and begins to extend from the Spanish and Portuguese settlements into the Indian villages, the inhabitants of which flock on procession-days to the churches, with parrots' feathers stuck in their hair, to see the parade and listen to the music. The protestant religions are professed along the north-eastern, or Atlantic, coast. In these parts, however, there are many Jews, whom the Dutch do not regard with a liberal benevo- lence. A Dutch lady from superstition will not visit a Jewess. The wives of the richest Jews were not invited to the official festivals and balls of the Dutch governors. Nor has the laud- able example of the Prince of Wales, in visiting the jew banker, Goldschmidt, been imitated by the chiefs of our own establishments. Such dramas as Cumberland's Jew, or Nathan the Wise, should be performed at Paramaribo. There is less of this religious repulsion in the catholic settlement at Cay- enne. Intolerance is in every view a public misfortune; for the insulted sect has always its allegiance ready for a new so- vereign, in the hope of future favor. If the French were in Bbb 2 372 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE strength at Cayenne, they would, from this cause, perhaps be able to render the sway of Bonaparte acceptable to certain descriptions of men in the contiguous colonics. The oriental historian Hossein Khan, who had witnessed, in a very different quarter of the world, the needless and grievous evils of superstitious partiality, thus recommends equal indulgence: "After all it must be remembered that, as princes and kings are reputed the shadows of God, they ought, in humble imitation of his divine attributes, to ac- commodate themselves to the dispositions and minds of their subjects, so as to carry an equal hand over them, without ex- ception, without predilection, and without shewing a dislike, or hatred, to any species of men. Such impartiality is incum- bent upon princes, if they intend to be the fathers and che- rishers of the people intrusted to their care ; and if they really wish that every man should look up to the monarch, as to his benevolent, forgiving father. This is a duty incumbent on them, if they wish that every one should think himself happy under their government ; for the subject must be cherished In the very palm of the monarch's hand, if the monarch really intends to discharge his duty, and to let the world see that he feels all the meaning of these verses of Saadi : " That beneficent Being, which, from its invisible treasury. Feeds with an equal hand, the believer, SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, fcc. SIS The unbeliever, tlie weak, mind and the strong, Might, if it had so pleased him, have created men of one opinion, Or have converted them at one word To one and the same religion." The first step to be taken for the security of what has been already acquired by the British government in Guyana is cer- tainly to occupy Cayenne. The value of the acquisition is less to be considered, than the expediency of displacing from the continent a powerful neighbour every way dangerous to the internal tranquillity and prosperity. In proportion to the progress of settlement and of purchase, a British interest grows up in the several administrative bodies. This interest insensibly becomes a party opposed to the old Dutch landed interest, and is its con-petitor for the distribution of patronage, for the favor of the sovereign, and for the direction of those various public undertakings, which so materially affect the local value of nas- cent properties. AVhile the ascendency remains in the old hands, or in fair equipoise, people are easy ; but it may be expected that the British party will ere long, through the indirect aid of the governors and public officers, become every where the do- mineering influence. In such case discontent may arise ; and the ancient proprietors, especially if irritated by inconve- nient changes in the system of vassalage, may, through their connexions in Holland, concert with Bonaparte to have the settlements in Guyana re-demanded for the subsisting subordi- nate government in Holland, at the next negotiation of a peace. 374- STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE If any tendency to court a reunion with the old metropolis should make its appearance in Dutch Guyana, no doubt Cay- enne would become the centre of intrigue. There, a powerful neighbour has a footing, who is always willing to accept, and as far as land-service goes, always able to support the allegi- ance of the discontented. A fleet oft' the coast is not a defense against troops marched through the interior. The French have many people of talent at Cayenne, quite adequate to stir- ring up sedition, and undertaking the administration of a co- lony : they are less rich in merchants of capital, or in patient and skilled agriculturists. The civilization of countries is always proportioned to the den- sity rather than to the number of the people. The same quan- tity of individuals distributed over a narrow surface, will each have more wants, and will each acquire a more various instruc- tion, than if dispersed over a wide surface. Whatever disbands and separates men, renders less necessary the acquirement of education, the social arts, the showy comforts, the domestic conveniences, and the cares of neatness. The natural indo- lence of every individual is found to bring him a grade nearer to savagism at every remove into a less thronged neighbour- hood. No citizen can be long settled in the country without rusticating. No colonist can migrate toward the back settle- ments, without a sensible approximation of his habits to those of the wild man of nature. At every successive generation the SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C, 375 progress is still more sensible ; and but for the perpetual impor- tation of Europeans at the sea-ports, the very memory of the refinement and civilization of their ancestors might die away among the land-owners of the interior. In order to resist the perpetual tendency of the settled and native population to diverge and to degenerate, pretences for frequent assemblages of the people should be contrived. To the fairs instituted by the Dutch, and to the religious pageants founded by the Spanish, might perhaps be added the attrac- tion of public games and manly exercises, in which the sa- vages could be induced to become competitors as well as spec- tators. AVhen they visit our towns they bring some singula- rities from the interior, they learn to know what we prize, and they carry back several of our instruments and utensils, which will eventually become permanent articles of demand. A still more important cause of regular assemblage and reciprocal in- fluence is the representative character of those administrative bodies, to which the provincial police of all colonies may most expediently be intrusted. The honor of a power freely conferred by the choice of the proprietors, serves to stimulate and to recompense education throughout the whole body. Not mere extent of dominion, but populous extent is the cause of every improvement. The roads of intercourse, the canals of irrigation and traffic, nay the very structure of every 376 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE one's house, depend for their excellence on the croudcdness of the neighbourhood. It is far better to attract a million of men into a province, than to disperse them over an empire. But there are cases in which extent of empire is itself the con- dition of condensing the populousness of its parts. A toll-gate road from Stabroek to Paramaribo is within the competence of the established authorities : but the thoroughfare along that road would be doubled, if it extended in the one direction to San Thomas, and in the other to Cayenne. "While Cayenne h French ; the worse the communication by land with Parama- ribo, the more agreeable to the European metropolis ; if Cay- enne appertained to the same sovereign, his interest is then to facilitate the communication. The like principle may be applied to the extension of a common interest across the French into the Portuguese territory. "What difficulty could Great Britain have to fear in under- taking a negotiation with the .court of Lisbon for the cession of that part of Guyana, which lies between the Oyapoco and the Maranyo ? A large grant of money, or a tribute for twenty years, would no doubt be thought an equivalent, for cediijg a nominal right of sovereignty, over a part of the Bra- zilian empire, to which the force of its protection, and the in- fluence of its circulation, docs not yet extend. The Maranyo, pr river of Amazons, is the practical boundary of Portuguese ascendency; the missionaries and pedlars, who visit its northern SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 377 bank, have hardly, as yet, taught there the European name of a sahit, or of a pair of scissars. But if, by that cession, the navigation of the Maranyo could be opened to the West Indies; almost every thing now procured from North America, would be furnished more cheaply and no less expeditiously, by the southern river-coast of Guyana. Barley is singularly good there : for the culture of rice, it is better adapted than the Carolinas, or than Louisiana. Timber, shingles, hoops, and tubstaves may be collected with facility by establishing saw-mills on the streams that fall into the Maranyo. Wax and honey may be had in any quantity of the Indians. Hides cost only the labor of killing the cattle. An earth useful in pottery is thence procured by the Portuguese. A curious instance of progress in the civilization of those savages, that dwell in the Portuguese territory, is related by Coutinho in his account of the commerce of Brazil. Do- mingo Alvarez Pesanka, who loved the Indians, and was de- sirous of their good will, caused to be erected for their exclu- sive use, a large and spacious building, which was fitted up according to their own taste. This edifice stands close to the water's edge, so that they may thence bathe, as is their cus- tom, every morning and afternoon. This same building, also serves them as a warehouse, or bazar, and is always crouded with sti'angers, who come well laden from beyond the moun- tains, to deal with the Portuguese inhabitants of the province. c c c 378 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE! They bring birds, wax, honey, mats, fossils, and other things which they collect, and here barter them for swords and iron tools of different kinds. If they have not brought wherewith to make the purchases they covet, they will let themselves for so many days, as wood-cutters, an employment in which they are expert. The navigation of the Maranyo has one great advantage over that of the Mississippi, that the trade-wind perpetually blows up-stream. Thus the wandering vessels have always a current either of water or of air to move by. The shipping which conies down to New Orleans with produce, seldom re- ascends : so laborious and incessant is the human effort requi- site to quant the vessels back : they are commonly sold off as lumber in some of the Atlantic sea-ports. But the shipping built in the Maranyo will there become an attached property, and will contribute, no less than the stationary dwellings on its banks, to employ industry, to difluse plenty, to promote con- sumption, and to bring prosperity to anchor. All the British West Indies would be benefited by free ac- cess to the interior of South America. All the other parts ot the British dominions would be benefited. Extent of empire answers the same purpose as the adoption of liberal principles of commerce. Could all nations trade with all, free from pro- hibition or restriction, without issuing a bounty or levying a SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 379 tribute at the custom-house, without making treaties of com- merce in behalf of favoured nations, or excluding hereditary foes from the market of general competition, every thing would be grown where it can be produced cheapest, manu- factured where the labor of men or of machines can be ap- plied with the greatest advantage, and brought at the expe- dient season, to the home of the consumer, with the smallest possible burden of expense and of profit. Among the parts of an extensive empire, this desirable equality of privilege usually prevails. The several provinces mostly enjoy one with ano- ther this equitable reciprocity of intercourse. In the different districts belonging to the same sovereign, there is seldom much locality of privilege. Industry is left to its natural walk and prosperity to its natural seat. Great Britain is content alike to take her sugar and cochineal, her cotton and indigo, from Bengal or from Stabroek. If an inequality of privilege in some respects prevails, it is rather in her export than in her import trade, and it is rather the East than the West Indies, which have cause for complaint. But the inconvenience of chartered companies and of legalized monopolies is become so apparent from the more rapid progress of AVest Indian than of East Indian commerce, that even these distinctions will no doubt soon incur abolition; and an universal toleration of pri- vate judgment in purchasing, and of the appropriate industry of each colony, will supersede the patronized establishments of a darker age. c c c 2 380 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE Whenever this colonial equality, this communion of provin- cial rights, shall be thoroughly conceded by parliament, there are few portions of the inhabited earth, which will not have ac- quired a strong interest in becoming attached to the British empire. If, instead of employing the celebrated enthusiast of liberty, general Miranda, to agitate the Caraccas, his know- lege of the country, and his intelligence among the people, had been called in merely to direct the conquest of the western bank of the Orinoko, by a regular army, whose presence and whose principles would have excited no apprehension of a ser- vile war, and of a general insurrection of the working negroes, that strip of country might lately have been added to, and con- solidated with, our possessions in Guyana. The bocas of the Orinoko are well worth the soUicitude of the British admiralty. They now pour out in time of war a multitude of small privateers, picaroon boats, as we call them, which take petty prizes to a vast amount collectively among the West Indian shipping. These picaroon boats are not va- luable enough to attract the notice of men of war ; and our mercantile capitals are otherwise engaged in the colonies, than to be conveniently applicable for privateering. Prize-money, it seems, is not thought worth dividing on board the British fleets, unless when it amounts to a considerable sum. Hence it happens that this petty predatory warfare proceeds unmo- lested ; and the colony-craft, which conducts our coasting- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARV, &C. 381 trade, is snapped up by these sharks with a most teasing and ruinous voracity. The black sailors are mostly sold for slaves, and the produce on board finds its way through Tortola, into the English, or, through some American ship-broker, into the European continental market. A conquest of the province of New Cumana is the only fun- damental remedy. This fine district up to Ciudad-real might surely have been attained, without any greater expenditure of life and etTort than was lately lent to general Miranda. But the enterprize should have been definite in its purpose and ob- ject, avowedly directed to the mere purpose of British con- quest, and restricted to the eastern bank of the Orinoko. The assertion of independence is a far greater hazard to run than a ready submission to a British army. Subjects, who should take part in a rebellious change, would have to apprehend sudden severities from the governors of all those places, which might persevere in allegiance ; would have to apprehend the consequences of being shortly repressed by troops from Mexico, or from Cuba; and would have to apprehend the eventual vengeance of the Spanish court, if Great Britain had to abandon their interests at a peace. But the worst that can happen, after a British conquest, is to be ceded back, to the parent-country, when war ceases in Europe, after tasting the profits of a freer trade, and forming some acquaintances in an heretical garrison. S82 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE A British military invasion proclaims a kind of fair, which is welcome in the West Indies. The variety of things ar- riving for sale, and the wider markets opened to produce, in- crease circulation, and raise the value of rentable property. Martinique has had every reason to rejoice even in the tem- porary sway of Great Britain. And so would any Spanish set- tlement. But the Spaniards entertain perhaps as yet some pre- judices against the religion of the English. Irish regiments, with a visible accompaniment of catholic priests, ought there- fore preferably to be sent among Spaniards. Not many years ago, the protestant planters at Grenada, made a conspiracy to pull down the catholic churches in that island. A similar in- tolerance is feared from any other heretical conquest. I be- lieve that the English people are become very tolerant ; I never saw an instance of insult offered to the religion of a neighbour ; I never heard a murmur at the state's distributing in Canada its ecclesiastic patronage among catholics. But the government has, nevertheless, not the reputation of being to- lerant; and this is what operates at a distance, and in colonial provmces. The repeated parliamentary refusals of Irish eman- cipation, and the declamatory indignation of the friends of the catholics, are the chief facts which reach the popish clergy of South America. To place ostentatiously a catholic arch- bishop, a domestic pope, in the house of lords, and to employ some Irish missionaries in visiting Guyana, are the expedient preparatory steps for acquiring the entire confidence of the ec- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 38J clesiastic party in the Spanish settlements here. I rejoice much in the conquest of Buenos Ayres ; but I doubt whether that conquest will prove to be so stable an acquisition as is expected, for want of any previous precaution to conciliate the religious portion of the people, which sways not only the great body of the Spaniards, but also of the contiguous Indian nations. Yet brilliant as the first seizure of Buenos Ayres may have been ; and important as the emporium for all the produce which descends the Plata may appear ; I am deliberately per- suaded that Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, and all the de- pendent provinces, would be well exchanged for the narrower eastern bank of the Orinoko. The Orinoko is not subject, like the Plata, to those hurri- canes from the Andes, which destroy, at a sweep, all the craft of navigation. The wonderful quantity of cattle is alike re- markable on the meadows of either river. The variety of ac- cessible country, and the quantity of timbered shore, is greater on the Orinoko. And the peculiarity, which this latter river offers, during the season of inundation, of supplying a navigable passage into the Maranyo, must give to it, for extent of inte- rior communication, an advantage over the Plata. Its even- tual importance, therefore, may rationally be expected to transcend that of a river, which is not of greater dimensions, which is no thoroughfare, and which does not open into a sea, so dotted with islands, and encircled with havens. 384 STATISTICAL ACCOUXT OF THE Nor is there perhaps so much diftercncc, as is commonly imagined, between the actual progress of settlement, of culti- vation, and of populousness, on the banks of the two rivers. The Plata is best known in Europe ; because Buenos Ayres figured in the red book, was the seat of a titled governor, and offered the hope of a large spoil of patronage to the courtiers. Besides, the vast silver tribute of Peru was often sent home through that channel. But the Spaniards not having created a privileged harbour within the Orinoko, the produce of the bordering provinces has habitually been carried for shipment to Trinidad, Goayre, or the Havanna. It has made no noise in the tariffs of the custom-house. A recent traveller estimates at 1 14,000 the settled colonial population of New Cumana and and Spanish Guyana. The produce raised by such a num- ber of employed individuals cannot be inconsiderable, or un- important ; particularly as it embraces some articles, such as chocolate, sarsaparilla, bark, and various dying-stuffs, in addi- tion to tobacco, coffee, cotton, and sugar, so generally grown in these districts for exportation. To be sure the surplus pro- duce of a colony of Creoles of Spanish descent Is by no means as great as the surplus produce of an equally populous colony under English guidance and management. For the Spaniards have progressively accommodated their habits so entirely to the country, the climate, and the gifts of the soil, that they consume, at home, a larger proportion of what they grow, and import from Europe a smaller proportion of what they SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 385 use, than any other set of people. They are nearly self-sut- ficient. They have naturalized themselves in South America far more completely than any other Europeans. They are really more puzzled to send home their taxes, than to supply their domestic consumption, whenever a war interrupts their intercourse with old Spain. The Spaniards have come to America, because there is room to live with little labor. Their numbers expand with the quiet regularity of patriarchal families. They place wise conduct in actual enjoyment ; not in the restless pursuit of riches to be displayed in old age among new acquaintance and in another hemisphere. Those, who leave Spain, come to stay, and not to return. They consider their adopted country, not as a counting-house where they are to earn a fortune, but as an es- tate where they are to found a family. And thus, though each life is less productive of emolument to the individual, it bequeaths more to the prosperity of the region. The English build wooden houses very fast ; the Spaniards very slow, but with brick and stone. Churches rise beside their dwellings; and so do schools and colleges. The latin grammar of Nebrija may be inferior to the Eton grammar ; but it is taught in the colonies. The English send home their children for the very elements of education. Hence there is great value in a settled population of the Spa- nish breed ; they are a pledge for enduring unremoving pros- Dd d 386 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OV THE perity. They are adapted to consume works of the fine arts, engravings of religious pictures, candelabres, altar-pieces, and costly vestments for the priesthood. They are adapted to civi- lize the servile population, which, if lazier, is certainly gentler and less disposed to revolt, in the Spanish possessions. Even in San Domingo the Spanish portion has been comparatively free from insurrection. It is therefore greatly to be desired, that the English govern- ment should bend its attention toward protecting, according to their own wishes, the Spanish colonists. Those situate on the Orinoko could immediately be provided, under British protec- tion, with every thing which renders an European connexion desirable to them ; with better stores of supply, with wider markets of vent, and with Irish merchants of their own faith, to conduct their intercourse, and to amalgamate with their po- pulation. In case a transfer of dominion should allow open intercourse between the West Indies and the provinces up the Orinoko, a vast many new settlers would domesticate there. The natural influence of the neighbourhood would pour into these colonies a truly British spirit. The additional planters, and the removed slaves, would soon bring in much of our habits and our dialect, would soon teach our activity and our wants. Thus the mass of public force would shortly be distinguished for British sym- pathies and willing allegiance. But on the Plata, the Creole SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 387 power is truly American; it is an Indian force governed by the convents of the missionaries, which has occasionally bid defiance to the Spanish military commanders, and has effica- ciously resisted several attempts to turn the monasteries into barracks. Such a population, almost wholly strange to Eu- ropean connexions and cares, will always be held in subjection by too frail a tenure, not to be wisely exchanged for the ruder, but more plastic people of the Orinoko. One mistake of the antient English administrations has been the not sending out their colonial governors sufficiently accom- panied. The multiplication of places is not merely a conve- nience to the patrons ; it is also a benefit to the subjects. Va- riety of ranks is but a distribution of political labor ; it is fa- vourable to subordination, to the collection of instruction, to the complete performance of duty, and to the advancement and recompense of merit. A splendid establishment, like all pomp, is adapted both to amuse and to overawe the multitude; and it tends to introduce a multiplicity of artificial wants, which furnish employ and nutriment to the different manufac- turers of the mother country. The principal merchants and planters soon attempt to imitate the pageantry of the governor's entertainments. Utensils are sent for to London, like those on his table, and furniture, like that in his saloon. "What he con- siders as accommodation becomes a general want. D d d 2 388 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE The revenues necessary Tor an increase of splendor are not considerable ; they might probably be found by selling the un- appropriated lands to new colonists for a quit-rent, subject to be augmented a tenth every ten years, or in some other pro- portion ; instead of selling them outright in lots, which require a sudden and inconvenient advance of capital for the fee-sim- ple. Window-taxes, and other such assessments on fixed pro- perty, might, if necessary, be introduced. Money, which is to be expended on the spot, is seldom grudged by the people. But care should be taken that places, which require local knowlege, be given to local experience ; and that those, who acquit themselves well in a province, should have a chance for advancement to metropolitan consequence. North Ame- rica was lost, as much for want of opening a career of ascent to her native talent, as from any popular benefit that was to ac- crue by the assertion of independence. It is fortunate when, by a rare chance, the governor brings with him a wife. Few married English women, of rank and character, are at any time Induced to make their appearance in these distant edges of the world, to exhibit the fashions of do- mestic elegance, and teach the graces of moral dignity. The female servants and humble companions of such married ladies Tcry commonly attach themselves independently and advan- tageously in the colonies; and produce, by their stay, a great SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &C. 389 and lasting effect in civilizing the local manners, and trans- planting those feminine arts of life, which our tavvney wenches never saw exemplified. From imitating the dresses of the white ladies, they will proceed to imitate usages of a higher unportance. Several barristers, with the title of recorder, should be sta- tioned in our principal towns. They might at first be emi- nently useful in compiling and translating the regulations of Dutch jurisprudence. Their next office would be to indicate and prepare the fittest way of assimilating the extant colonial laws with those of the British empire. Usage is of great value; it implies motion without friction. But in colonies, where an influx of additional inhabitants is continually going on; where the balance of Dutch population is declining, and the habit of connexion with Holland is interrupted; where incessant mi- grations produce, with greater speed than the ordinary flow of generations, a general renewal of the people ; usage must un- dergo a rapid and considerable change, if it is to keep pace with the convenience of the stirring mass of society. In such circumstances, an obstinate retention of custom is itself a grievance ; it occasions more friction than innovation would do. There is greater danger of complaint that the English laws are not introduced fast enough ; than that the old land- marks are ploughed up too hastily. The more of legality and the less of usurpation there is in the introduction of new insti- 390 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE tutions the better. Trial by jury, and an elective constitution of the provincial administrations, are the fundamental blessings, which British conquest every where should aspire to bequeath. There are several minor changes in legislation, which resident lawyers would teach us to obtain at home. Unless the evil of laws is observed by professional men ; the form of remedy can seldom be devised* which will give least trouble, and amalga- * By the peace of Amiens it was covenanted that every British subject having concerns in any of the countries ceded to other powers, should have three years allowed to settle them ; after which time, if they remained, they were to be considered as subjects of that power possessing the country. But immediately after the arrival of the Batavian government's forces, the governor issued peremptory proclamations, calling on every inhabitant to take the oath of allegiance to the new government. As the subjects of Great Britain held back, proclamation after proclamation was published, calling on them to take the oath of allegiance, threatening them in case of non compliance, with ba- nishment from the colony. Serious consequences certainly appeared about to be the result of this unpre- cedented demand of the governor's, and several petitions were addressed to him from different parts of his government, signed by the first and most respect- able inhabitants, shewing how peculiarly they were situated as British subjects, having three years allowed them by the treaty of peace to settle their affairs, and praying his proclamations might be withdrawn, and that they might be al- lowed to take advantage of the clause in their favor. These applications were of no avail whatever. Meertens ordered his secretary not to receive any more of the petitions, and gave no other answer to those he had received, than by issuing another mandate to the same effect as the former ones. The conse- SETTLEMENTS ON THE DEMERARY, &€. 391 mate best with existing statutes. The intricacy of the British custom-house regulations is often injurious to trade ; in nothing quence was, that those subjects of Great Britain who would not take the oath, were shipped from the colony like so many criminals. Another class of men, whose particular situations as ship-owners precluded them from taking the oath, waited on the governor, and pointed out to Jiim different abstracts in our navigation acts which prevented them from comply- ing with his proclamations. The principal ones of which were as follows, as these facts are not generally known, I have transcribed them. In an act for the farther increase and encouragement of shipping and navi- gation, 26 Geo. 3d, c. 60, and in sec. 8th, 9th, and 10th, will be found the following strictures : British subjects resident abroad. " 8th. — That no subject of his majesty, whose residence is any foreign country, shall be entitled, during the time he shall continue to reside, to be whole or part owner of any British ship or vessel required to be registered by this act, unles he be a member of some British factory, or agent for, ox partner in, any house or copartnership carrying on trade in Great Britain or Ireland. " 9th and 10th. — Oath to be taken before registry. " The oath, directed, by the 1 and 8 Will. 3, to be taken on registering the ships and vessels therein described, is hereby repealed. But no registry shall be made or certificate granted until the following oath be taken and sub- scribed before the persons herein before authorized to make such registry, and grant such certificate, by the owner of such ship or vessel, if the same belong to one person only ; or in case there shall be two joint owners, then by both of them, if both be resident within twenty miles of tlie port where such registry 392 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE more remarkably than in the article of coffee, which is bur- dened with expense, and injured in quality, by the processes adopted for securing the revenue. is required, or by one of such owners, if both be resident at a greater distance, or if the number of such owners should exceed two, then by the greater num- ber of them, if the greater number shall be resident within twenty miles of such port, not exceeding three of such owners, if all shall be resident at a greater distance. (The Oath.) " I, A. B. of (place of residence and occupation) do make oath, that the ship or vessel (name) of (place or port belonging) whereof is at present master, being ( kind of built, burthen, ! 850 ) 850 1300 7 1150 3 1150 1100 7 950 I total of each Lot. 19'200 lycoo yo'oo i)6'00 9600 9600 9(''oo 9600 2550 4250 1700 2450 750 3450 10500 Account of ships frojn Africa ivith cargoes of Slaves imported into the colonies of Esseqiiebo and Demei-ary from 174-5 to 1785. From 1745 to 1748 there were none 1749 - - 1 ship 1750 to 1761 none 1762 - - 1 1763 - - - 1 APPENDIX. 599 In llG-i- - - 1 ship 17 Co none From 1776 to 178(7 there were 4<7 Making a total of 51 slave ships in forty-two years, averaging about one hundred and twenty slaves. There were certainly more embarked in Africa, but whether from bad treatment or misfortune, many of the vessels arrived with only sixty slaves on board, when it was a well known fact, they had shipped upwards of two hundred. Be- side importations, there were seasoned people imported by the British settlers from the West-Indian islands, which are not noticed in this statement. When we reflect, that in 1786, there were not more than forty thousand negroes in the two colonies, and that seventy-five thousand had been imported in the last forty-two years, exclusive of those brought into the colonies previous to an office being established for entering the vessels at, and the negroes imported by the English settlers without taking into consideration the number of children which would naturally be born within that period, what an immense loss and dreadful sacrifice of lives appear to have taken place. I can only account for it thus: negroes were sold in the years alluded to from twenty to forty pounds sterling, at fifteen months credit ; from their bearing such a trifling value, I fear they were too frequently sacrificed by hard work, and iJI treat- +00 APPENDIX. ment, under an idea that twelve or eighteen months labor was sufficient to pay the first cost. It is an absolute fact, that the comfort and health of the negroes was never much considered, until their value, like that of a blood horse when put in com- petition with a cart horse, entitled them to better treatment, for fear they should die, as the loss would then be so much the greater. Specimen of the negro Englisli, or talhee-talkee, alluded to at p. 341, which is spoken by the Creole ladies in preference to any other dialect. Da wan tieri somma - That is a free person No mekie bawli bawli - Don't make any noise Dai de mekie too mooso bawli bawli They make too much noise Mekie hesie - - Make haste Loeke boen - - - Take care, or look good Tantiere - - - Stand still Loeke deeja . _ . Look here Piekietvnoro - . _ A little more Otiofo - - > Enough Oe somma die da pree ? - AVho's there ? Matie - - - A friend Da mie - - - It's me Da massa - - - It's a gentleman Da misse - - It's a lady. FINIS. Norwich Printed by Stevenson and Matcbett. p^ ' KV^ V5n UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. PECE!VFD OCT 211965 Alvi 7-4 A-s> 4 s,- lO D/.^^."^n^- RL Jf\H 6 m2 |llAR02t99b Form L9-Series 444 .^^ Trr-- I -tT^T" i /Or- -P- V; V^ .Am -V.v •F 2383 B63v 1807 :=e.' -!RN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY D 000 740 755 4 L7ik ^-¥^