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Ml soi^ "^/jaaAiNn-wv^ ^' ^OFCAllFOff^ ^\\E■UN1VER5■/A ^f V o AWEI)NIVERS/a ^ 1::^. .^WEl'NIVER ^fiiJONVSOV'^''' '-^ o I? jjslOSANCElfj> %a]AlN(13WV^ A;^tllBRARYG/~ ^^tllBRARYQ^ ■^ i ir-' ^ ^JITO-JO'f^ .^MEUNIVERy/A '^Xil^DNVSOl^' ■^/ia]AiNn]WV ^.ifojiw: jo"^ <— > & o ^lOSANCElfx> "^/iajAINIIJWV ^0FCAIIF0% ^(?Aavaan#- .-;(OFCAIIFO% ^OAavaaiii^"^ .ameuniverj/^ ^lOSANCElfj> o ^ H;0f-CAIIFOP' ■^/^aaAiNiiJiw^ ^OAii ^^y^l■llBRARYQr >i ■^lOSANCElfx> A\\EUNIVERy/^ ^^ ^1 Oi^^ -p o ■< II. i.«4^ J, — I Vri ^^^UlBRARYQf ^ ^lllBRARYO/^ jN D j\j >-\ u^tratn^ BT A SSlEitlS ®F ^riBWS ^; /'/^^ iy/Mi>/M/y .>. ^, 1B>T TI //^.y. ^JMUES TMM i'jiiK..A, COMPRISING TjWE EABJLIEIi MBUFICBS , ANTJirxr-TTIES^&c. :, ffi ( !!on?ioit,r^V TO THE KING. Sire, YOUR MAJESTY, in taking a second of my works illustrative of ARCHITECTURE, Stack Annex 5 2024G2S IV DEDICATION. under your protection, has conferred an honour upon me, as grateful as it is gracious. The splendid and useful improvements that have been effected in this Metropolis, under your Majesty's auspices, and which it is the business of this work to describe, will render the name of GEORGE THE FOURTH, as illustrious in the British annals, as that of Augustus in those of Rome. The power of England, concentrated by peace, and directed by wise counsels, extends its genial influence over a greater portion of the habitable globe, than did ever that of Rome by the demora- lizing influence of the sword. And under the benign reign of your Majesty, we derive more advantages from the liberal cultivation of arts of peace, than did any other people, from the most triumphant consequences of successful war. In Rome the few were prodigiously rich, and the mass of the people as wretchedly poor ; in Britain, DEDICATION. V the converse of this unhappy condition prevails ; and the majority of your Majesty's subjects are in the secure enjoyment of liberty, prosperity and happiness. This state of society arises principallj from a due rejiard for the honours of a noblf ancestry ; from active commerce, industrious trade, skilful manufactures, agriculture, arts, science, literature, and those magnificent rewards, which are ever the solace of genius and talents, from a patriotic sovereign and an enlightened people. Industry and a daring spirit of commercial en- terprize, have characterized the British nation, from the time of Tacitus to the present day ; when the influence of our princely merchants, and the spirit of nautical discovery, which signalize your Majesty's reign, have extended the fostering in- fluence of our laws, customs and language, and planted the British standard, from the icy regions of the Polar Seas to the verge of the terra incognita of Australasia. VI DEDICATION. That your Majesty's fortunate and happy reign, may be still more fortunate and more happy, by a providential continuance of the blessings of health, and a happy length of days, is the sincere prayer of Your Majesty's Most obliged and most devoted Subject and Servant, JAMES ELMES. London. July I, 1827. LONDON NINETEENTH CENTURY. '* From liis oozy bed. Old father Tlmmes advanced liis reverend head : His tresses dressed with dews, and o'er the stream. His shining horns diffused a golden gleam. Graved on his urn appeared the moon, tliat guides His swelling wafers and alternate tides ; The figured streams in waves of silver rolled, And on their banks Augusta* rose in gold." Pope. BRIEF HISTORY OF LONDON, FROM THE EARLIEST FOUNDATION OF THE CITY TO THE NORMAN INVASION FROM THE NORMAN INVASION TO THE REFORMATION — FROM THE ACCESSION OF QUEEN ELIZABETH TO THE FIRE OF LONDON — AND FROM THE REBUILDING OF THE CITY BY SIR CHRISTOPHER WREN — SUBSEQUENT PROGRESSIVE IMPROVEMENTS TO THE PRESENT DAY. London, tlic most ancient constitutional borough iu England,t is a city of very higli antiquity. Without going back to tlie historical romance of Geoffrey of Monmouth, who attributes its foundation to a descendant of Venus and Anchises, and enumerates seventy successive kings before tlie aiTival of JuUus Caesar ; it is sufficient for oiu- piurpose, that Ca;sar gives no description in his well known narrative of his conquests, of any other kind of to^\Ti in Britain, than a thick wood fortified by a ditch and a moimd. Hence it is concluded that London owes its origin to a later period, even than the invasion of Caesar. Tlie first Roman lustorian who mentions our metropolis by name is Tacitus, who bears lionorable testimony to the number and opulence of its merchants, and the abundance of its provisions. Strabo also asserts that the country produced com, cattle, gold, silver and iron; and tliat .skins, slaves and dogs, excellent for tlie chace, were imported fiom our island. * Tlie name given to London by Constantine the Great, in honor of liis mother the Empress Helena. t Norton's Commentaries on the History, Constitution and Chartered Franchises of the City of JjOudon. B 2 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. The conquests of Claudius, and liis able general Plautius, were continued in the reign of Nero by Suetonius Paulinus, who was bravely but unsuccessfully opposed by the natives under the commaiul of their illustrious queen Boadicea. This predatory warfare was continued by the Impend generals till the time of Domitian, whose legions, under the command of Agiicola, achieved the conquest of nearly the whole island. This brave and pnadent general provided for its security, by establisliing that Une of military stations, in tlie north of England, which was afterwards fortified in the reign of Antoninus Pius, and still remains a monument of Roman greatness. Thus was tlie greater part of Britain subjugated : " a conquest," says Gibbon, " that was undertaken by the most stupid" (Claudius), " maintained by the most despotic" (Nero), " and terminated by the most tunid" (Domitian) " of all the emperors ;" and the suc- cessors of Caractacus, Boadicea and tlieir bands of heroes, were compelled to submit to the Roman yoke. Agricola being appointed governor of Britain exhorted the natives, says Tacitus,* to cultivate the arts of peace, to build temples and houses, and to imitate their enlightened conquerors. This caused London to revive, after the severe defeat of Boadicea, to such an extent, that Herodian in his life of the Emperor Lucius Septimius SeveiiLs, who reigned from the year 193 to 211, calls it a great and wealthy city. It extended from Ludgate to Tower Hill in length, and from the causeway above Cheapside to the Tliames in breadth. It is not probable, from the silence of the Roman historians, that London was either a place of great strength, or fortified by a wall, till after those periods wherein they ■wTote, and the time when it was so jjrotected is a matt(^r of great unceilainty. Maitland attri- butes the erection of a wall to Theodosius, who was governor of Britain in .369. Dr. Woodward and Mr. Pennant with more probability ascribe it to Constantine the Great, wluch appears to be confirmed by the number of coins found of his mother Helena. Pennant says, in fuilher support of tliis conjecture, that in honour of this Empress the city about that time received fi-om her the title of Augusta, which superseded its more ancient and cleai-ly British appellation Londinium, for only a short period. London, at tliis period of its history, had a mint, and was adorned with temples and other public buildings of great magnificence, as the numerous remains of ancient Roman architecture and sculpture that have been discovered in various excavations, witliin the walls of the city, incontestably prove. Tlie substantial and extensive wall that sm-- rounded it was sti-engthened and adorned by the RomanP-n-ith many towers, of so firm a stractui-e that two were in existence in Maitland's time ; and Dr. Woodward doubts not, that nearly the whole circuit of the city wall as it stood in 1707 was erected upon the old Roman foimdation, wliich comprehended an area of more than three miles in cfrcum- ference. While the mighty empire of Rome was crumbling to pieces, by slow but certain steps, the British island sepai-ated itself fi-om its gi-eat protector. Roman forces being withdi-awn, the natives were left to the ravages of tlie Saxon pirates, and their neighbouring enemies of Ireland and Caledonia. • Life of Agricoln. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 3 After the departure of the Romans from Britain, about the year 448, the independance of the country was establislied by the Emperor Honorius, who raised the City of London among other cities to the dignity of a Colony. The supreme connnand devolved on Vor- tigern an unfortunate prince, who bears the stigma of ha\ing in\itcd the Saxons to protect him against his northern enemies, the Scots and Picts. Whether the Saxons were invited as some authors relate, or whether according to others they invaded a country well kno^^•n to them, which offered a lure to their cupidity, is of little importance in this brief nai'- ration ; but that they succeeded and establislied their dominion under the name of the Saxon heptarchy, from their seven kingdoms is a truth, tlie effects of which are apparent to the present day. Hengist, the first of these crafty chieftains, established liis government over Kent, Essex and Middlesex, and raised Canterbury to the dignity of his metropolis in preference to London, which remained in possession of the Britons, and afterwards became the chief city of the Saxon Idngdom of Essex. London was at this time governed by a chief magis- toate under the title of Portgrave, or Portreve. Towards the latter end of the reign of Ethelbert, about the year 600, a considerable number of the Saxons were converted to Cluistianity, and Augustine, a monk sent over by Pope Gregory the Great, was ordained archbishop of England. He ordained Mellitus bishop of the East Saxons, who in 610 erected at the expense of Ethelbert a cathedral church in London, and dedicated it to St. Paul, and another in the island of Thoraev, which he dedicated to St. Peter. At this time, says Bede, London was a mart town of many nations, yet it was far from that high estate in which it was left by the Romans, for no buildings in brick or stone were attempted by the Saxons till the year 680, and even the clim'ches and monasteries were principally of wood, till the reign of Edgar in 974. In the year 764 London suffered very considerably by fire, and in 798 it \vas entirely destroyed by a similar calamity. Tlie city was scarcely rebuilt, when it was again de- sti-oyed by a thu-d conflagration, in 801. During the civil wars bet^\'een tlie various king- doms of the Saxons, the Londoners wisely kept neuter, and when their seven kingdom.s were united under the sole dominion of the victorious Edgai', in 827, he fixed upon London as his capital, and in 833 with Ethelwolf his son, Withlaf king of Mercia, and the leading men of the realm assembled in London and held a Witena-gemot or parliament ; and may thus be considered as the second founder of London, by raising it to that rank among the cities of the kingdom, which it has ever silice maintained. Notwithstanding the success of Egbert, it was not long before London was again the scene of war and devastation, from the in\asion of the Danes ; wliich in tlu-ee subsequent reigns, nearly overwhekned the whole kingdom in ruin. After sacking and burning tlie unfortunate city, they found tliemselves under the necessity of occupying and fortif\ino- it against the successes of the Britons. The conquests of Alfred restored London to its former greatness, and freed the Idngdom fi-om the Danish yoke. Tliis great monarch repaired the walls, and rebuilt the city. He also estabhshed that regular System of law and government, and accomplished those great improvements which are enjoyed to the present dav. 4 LONDON IN THK NINETEENTH CENTURY. About a centiny after the death of Alfi-cd, the Danes and Norwegians sailed up tlic Thames and hesieged the city, which lieing unable to rcnluce, they raised the siege, but harassed other parts of the kingdom. London, being abandoned by its pusilanimous monai-cli Ethelred, who abdicated his throne, and retired into Normandy, was compelled to submit Avith the rest of England to the yoke of Sweyne king of Denmark. The Lon- doners however in the reign of Canute his son, joined in the general effort of the whole . kingdom, under tlie brave Edmond Ironsides, the son of Ethelred. The entcrjirize was so successhd, that Canute was compelled to abandon London to his ri^al, who was there croA^aied king of England ; but being aftei^wards assassinated, Canute became sole so^e- reign of the kingdom. Edward the Confessor is said to be the first monarch, who formally recognised the pri- vileges of London, which had previously subsisted only by custom and tradition, and the city at this period, ac(;ording to Wilham of Malmsbiu^', became the resort of merchants Irom all parts of the world. On the invasion by William the Conqueror, the citizens of London received him with arms in their hands, and willingly acknowledged him as king, who in return took up liis residence in their city, built the tower, and gi'anted them their first written charter, which is still preserved in the archives of the city. In 1077 the greater part of the city was consumed by a casual fire, and in 1086 another dreadful fire began at Ludgate, and con- sumed the greatest and best part of the city, together with the cathedral of St. Paul, which however was soon rebuilt more magnificently than before. It was in tlus reign that the church of St. Mary-le-bow in Cheapside was first erected. In the succeeding reign William Ruftis erected Westminster Hall, as it now stands, and encompassed the Tower of London with a strong wall. Hem-y the First confirmed the gi-ants and charter of his father, gave the citizens privilege to elect their own sheriffs and magistrates, and of being amenable to courts only held within their walls. This king, in consideration of an annual payment of £300, gave them also the privilege of electing the sheriff of Middlesex in perpetuity, a riglit which they enjoy to tliis day. Matilda the consort of Henry contri- buted also very largely to the increase of the pubhc buildings of London. In the following veign of Stephen, the city was again devastated by a similar calamity. During the captivity of the chivalrous Richard Cceur-de-Lion, the citizens of London contributed largely to the sum required for his ransom, and received him with such truly civic magnificence, that a Genaan nobleman, who accompanied the captive monarch to his ancient capital, ohserved, that had his master the Emperor been aware of the wealth of the king of England's subjects, he would have demanded a much larger sum for his release. The grateful monarch confirmed the citizens in all their privileges, and confeiTed upon them the cpnservatorship of the river Thames, made their chief magistrate chief butler to the king, and gave them the power of fixing a standard of weights and measm'es fur the whole realm. The buildings of London at this period, if we may believe the splendid fictions of Fitz- stephen, were grand in the extreme, for he describes the king's palace as an incompai-able edifice, and connected with the city by suburbs reaching two miles in length, that the LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 5 bishops, abhots and noblemen of the kingdom resorted thither, lived in beautiful houses, and maintained very magiiilicent establishments. As at present, the citizens \\Tre w ell initiated in the luxitties of good living, for they had an immense public cooking establish- ment on the Thames side, at which dainties of every kind, of very expensive (piality, could be had at any time of day or night. They had also public and private schools of philosophy and polite hteratm-e ; the drama was well understood and cultivated, and Fitz- stephen, who was a monk, commends in very high terms the holy exliibition of the mira- cles and martyrdom of the saints. In this reign, we have the first appearance of an approach towards a building act ; for in the fii-st year of king Richard's reign, in consequence of the frequent fires, it was ordained by the court of aldennen that no houses should after that period be allowed to be built of wood or thatched ; but that all of them should have an outside wall of stone raised six- teen feet from the ground, — an ordinance wliich seems to have been at that time success- fully canied into effect. From the authority quoted by Mr. Norton, one of the late common pleaders of the city, in his able commentaiies on the history, constitution and chaitered fi-ancliises of tlie city of London, preseiTed in tlie liber constitut. Lib. Home, Lib. Clerkenwell, twelve aldennen were subsequently at a frill busting to superintend all city works, and settle disputes about enclosures, party wall, &c. This stability in the structure of houses did not last long ; for, according to contemporary accounts, all houses in London were built of wood down to the reign of James I., at which time they began to build with brick. During the absence of Ccemr-de-Lion, his brother and successor John, then called Earl of Moreton, cultivated by all possible means the love of the citizens, \A'ith the intention of gaining their interests to procure him the crown, in the stead of Prince Arthiu", son of Geoffr-ey his elder brother. This was attended with such success, that king Richard was succeeded by his brother John, who gave the citizens the privilege of electing theii- cliief officer out of their own body. King John also gave the city thi-ee chailers, reciting a:id confirming all the rights and privileges of liis predecessors, with many very important additions. During the disputes that arose between John and the papal see, the citizens, in common with tlie rest of the kingdom, were excommunicated ; still however they would have sup- ported him, had not his tp-anny alienated their affection, and drove them to join the Barons in defence of the generiil national interest. The king resented this, and the citizens re- torted by sti-engthening their walls with a deep ditch, and other defences, which were somewhat retai'ded by an extraordinary fire on London Bridge, on the 10th of July 1212, whereby upwards of .3000 persons perished either by the flames or in being di-owned by overloading the boats that went to then- assistance. The bridge was greatly damaged, and a gi'eat part of the city consumed. In 1-213 \^']len the ailicles composing ike great chorier were proposed, resolved on and sworn to, the citizens of London joined their fellow couutipnen, and received with joy the means offered them to assist in tliis glorious achievement, which has become to the present time, the palladium and standard of our liberties. C 6 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Almost as soon as the gratifying intelligence of this event could be known over the king- dom, John applied to the pope for an absolution from his solemn oath, and to other foreign potentates for military aid. With this assistance lie commenced a civil war against the Barons, who sought and found protection mthin the walls of the city. He then fiibni- nated against all concerned a thundering anathema from Rome, which was received witli indifference. The citizens, althougli exempted by their cliarter from going to war, raised, it is said, an anny of 20,000 horse, and 40,000 foot, besides fitting out a powerfiil fleet to protect their commerce. On Henry III. succeeding to the throne, his fii'st public act was to confirm the great charter. Tlie citizens of London received their young king with every possible demon- stration of attachment, Init between them and the courtiers nho had been the supporters of John there was any feeling but that of cordiality to each other. On the death of Ids wise and liberal minister, the Earl of Pembroke, Heniy threw himself into the entii'e guidance of Hubert-de-Burgh, who, as chief minister and justiciary of the kingdom, acted with cruel and ai'bitrarj- measures. He suspended the operations of the great charter, and hanged Fitz-Amulp, a citizen who had been engaged in a tumult against the abbot of Westminster, and two other citizens, without any trial. He also usiuped the city authorities into his own hands, caused the king to amerce them in a large sum, and appointed a custos over it instead of their own chief magistrate. When the citizens remonsti'ated against this infi-action of a solemn charter, he demanded a fifteenth of all their moveables for granting a restoration of it. He also proliibited all schools of law to be held in London, where the articles of the great and the forest charters were taken as subjects for discussion. On the king's coming of age, De Bm'gh incun-ed his displeasure, and with a fickleness natural to bun, the discarded minister was fii'st given up to the mayor and citizens to be dealt with as he deserved ; but on the remonstrance of Ranulph, Earl of Chester, the order was recalled to the gieat disappointment of the ill-treated citizens. Great as was the displeasure of the citizens, against the king's measiwes, they would not omit their usual splendom- and liberality at the coronation of queen Eleanor at West- minster ; for the mayor, aldennen and cliief citizens went out A\'ith great splendour to welcome tiie royal consort. The king's extravagance and misrule brought him into such distress that he was compelled to pawn the crown jewels to relieve his necessities. These national pledges were accepted by tiie citizens, to prevent their deposit witii tiie Burghers of Antwei-p, or the Jews of Amsterdam, the usual money lenders of that day. But, when the king heard who were the lenders of the money, he expressed great contempt for and dis- pleasm-e at the party. The Idng tlierefore bore no great good will towards his good citizens of London, and proved his regard by most exorbitant exactions, and the vaiious schemes of pdlaging he resorted to so disgusted the citizens, that they joined cordially in the league made by the Bai'ous against liim. In this king's reign is tiie fnst recorded instance of supplying the city with water, by means of pipes ; wliich was brought from six fountains in the \Tllage of Tybiun. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 7 The enmiiy between the king and the city daily increased, and lie exhibited his wrath by fines and curtailment of their ancient privileges ; which however thoy recovered by their wonted energy and perseverance. Heiu-y, on the birth of his son Edward, affected to be reconciled to the city, that he might induce the coi-poration to t;ike oaths of fealty to the new-bom prince ; and at the same time he made additional and expensive fortifications to the Tower of London, that he might overawe the rebellious citizens. In the twenty-fifth year of this king's reign, according to the chronicles of Sir Richard Baker, aldermen were first chosen to rule the wai'ds of the city, but they ^\■ere clianged annually in the manner of the sheiiff's ; the houses were mostly covered, or thatched ^\ ith straw, and a fonner edict that all future buildings should be of stone, with party walls, and covered ^\'ith slates or tiles, was renewed. In the same year, the king granted a consider- able sum towards building the new abbey chiu'ch at Westminster. A common seal, which in fact, if not in name, now first incoqjorated the city as a body, was likewise granted in tliis reign. Notwithstanding the readiness of the citizens to comply wqth all the king's reasonable demands, he still continued to oppress them under various pretences ; in consideration how- ever of receiving a large sum of money, he granted them a new charter, which confirmed all they had hitherto enjoyed. Yet his craving for money and enmity to the city continued unabated, and after nimierous acts of tjTamiy, and conferences, he violated and granted in succession no less than nine different charters. So much had he drained the city by his continual extortions, that the most eminent citizens found difficulty in procming provisions for then- families, and the poor were reduced to a dreadful state of famine. In consequence of prince Edward breaking open' the ti'easury of the knight's Templars, in 1263, and robbing it of a large sum deposited there by die citizens, the inliabitants com- menced retahation upon the court by assaidting and plundering the houses of Lord Gray and others of the nobility. The barons being engaged in hostilities with the king de- manded aid of the Londoners, but Hemy, who came and resided in the Tower, endeavoured to cajole them with fair words and promises ; findhig however they could no longer submit to the ai-bitrary will of so faitliless a monarch, they marched to give him battle ; when it was agreed to refer all their differences to the king of France : tlie latter deciiling in favour of Henry, the citizens headed by the constable of the Tower marched to Isleworth, where they destroyed the palace of the king of the Romans, and on their return pulled down the king's summer residence near Westminster. After this they returned in triumph, and further hostiUties continued with various fortunes. The king, having routed the barons called a parliament at Westminster, \vliich enacted " that the City of London, for its late rebellion, should be divested of its Hberties, should have its posts and chains taken away, and its principal citizens imprisoned and left to the mercy of the king." In consequence of this act, he imprisoned several of the leading citizens, who went to Windsor to implore his clemency, and dismissed the whole of their magistracy. Tlie corporation at length obtained pardon and a new chailer, on payment of 20,000 marks. It was in tliis reign the city watching and warding were first estabhshed. West- minster Abbey was completed, and many privileges were conferred on the city by prince 8 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Edward tlie king's son, who, being appointed governor by his father, obtained for the citi- zens a recognition of their right to choose their o«-n cliicf magistrate and other immunities, according to ancient charter. On the death of Heiuy, his son, then engaged in the Crusades, succeeded to the throne as Edward I., and testified his regard for the citizens of London, by transmitting to them a letter, wherein he ordered the expulsion of tlie Flemings. This mark of the king's per- sonal regard for a city whose cliief magistrate he had been wliilst prince, w^as accepted with such gi-atitude by the citizens, that they received him on bis arrival from Pidestinc Avith unbounded joy and magnificence. In return the king acted as moderator, in a \iolent dissension which broke out as to the choice of a mayor ; and in the tliird year of his reign he honoured the city by appointing its mayor his ambassador beyond seas, and directed four citizens chosen by their follows to supply the place of mayor duiing his absence. In this year the convent of the Black-friars was founded and built by a Ucense from the crown, and also a wall and tower at the head of it for liis Majesty's reception. Tliis wall reached from Ludgate westward, beliind the houses to Fleet ditch, and thence southward to the river Ihames ; for the completion of which the king gi'anted the citizens a duty on certain merchandizes for tlu'ee years. At this period of Edward's reign, the citj- first began to be governed by wai'ds as at present, and elected a select body from among themselves called the lord mayor's common council, and were fii'st summoned to parliament by the king's writ. In 1281 London bridge had become so dangerous from decay that the citizens applied to the king for aid, wliich he granted by authorizing a toU to be collected for its repair', and shortly after gave them certain other duties for the reparation of the public buildings and enclosure of the city. Five of the ai-ches of London bridge having been carried away, a subsidy was granted to the coqioration for its repair. In the twelfth year of tliis reign, the mayor, aldermen and sheriffs, having been smn- nioned to appear before the justices in Eyre at the Tower, the former refiised to appear in lus magisterial capacity, but attended as a private citizen : the king was so incensed at this conduct that he immediately deprived the city of aU its franchises, and appointed a custos, Avho held the authority of the mayor for above twelve years ; but which was afterwards restored to the citizens in consideration of a moderate fine. Tlie city, says Mr. Norton, was never after in this reign molested in its rights ; and so firmly does the supreme authority of the law appear to have been estabhshed, that upon a mandate coming from the king, directed to the mayor and sheriffs, which appeared to infringe the privileges of the citizens, they did not hesitate to return for answer — that they could not be charged to obey it ; and they actually refused so to do, with impunity. In the t\venty-eighth year of this reign, the Goldsmith's company of London was in- \ested with tlie privilege of assay; and in 1304, we fu'st read of a recorder of London, when Geoffrey de Hartlepole, alderman, was chosen to that dignity. On the death of Edward I. the sceptre was transfened to the feeble hands of his son, Edwiud II., who began his reign by acts of severity against the city. Part of the fine due fioin the city to liis father being unpaid, he issued a writ oi fieri facias, from the exche- LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 9 qucr, and distrained the goods of the citizens. He was guilty of many other similar acts of tyranny, yet the citizens received him on his first solemn entry, in 1.308, with a degree of magnificence that sufficiently testified their loyalty. In this reign, we find the first authentic mention of the mercantile constitution of the civic corporation, and of the mer- cantile qualifications requisite in candidates for the freedom of the city. A numher of articles of regulation were drawn hy the citizens, approved hy the king, and afterwards confirmed to them hy a deed known by the title of the first charter of Edward II. In 1310 tlic order of knight's Templars in London was subverted, tlieir persons having been arrested in England as well as all over the continent. They were liowever allowed trifling pensions by the king, during their imprisonment in the foiu- city gates. The citizens, in resentment of some indignity received fi-om the king, levelled to the ground, a mud wall that bad been erected by Henry III. to enclose the Tower, and which encroached within the city walls. The king in punishment for this act of indiscretion fined them in 1000 marks, but renewed to them their former privileges of recovering their rents by gavelot. In 1317 the king summoned a parliament at York, and directed the sheriff's to return two of their fellow citizens, but in the return to the court, the mayor, aldermen, sheriffs and commonalty retiuned three. The king having resigned the government entirely into the hands of his tjTannical favo- rites, the two Spencers, tlie barons resented this conduct, and summoned a parliament to meet in the city, where the nobility repaired with such a ti'ain of attendants, that they equalled in number a considerable army. The conduct of the barons and the citizens was so pnident that the king was compelled to assent to their terms, and gave them many addi- tional privileges, and another charter. The rest of this reign was spent in continual squab- bles between the court and the city ; both the Spencers were hanged, and the head of the younger .one stuck upon London bridge. The king, who had taken refuge in Wales, was sent to London, and confined in the Tower. The parliament voted his deposition in 1327, and his son Edward, then only fourteen years of age, was chosen to succeed him. The young king Edward III. was received by the Londoners with great enthusiasm, and with the constitutional consent of his parliament granted them an ample charter, com- prising the power of trying prisoners within their own jurisdiction, and of trying citizens convicted of crimes in other parts within the city, called the rights of infaiig-theff and outfang -theft. He also added by a second charter the village of Southwark to the juris- diction of the city. In 1329, several ambassadors from foreign kingdoms having aiTived, the king ordered a grand tournament to be performed in Chcapside, in honour of his illustrious visitors, which is a proof of the estimation in which he held the citizens, whose foreign trade had increased to such an extent, that in 1331 the customs of the port of I^ondon, at the very low rate of duty at that period, amounted to above £'8000 a year. In 1338 an expedition was formed against France, and the prince of Wales, afterwards known by the title of the Black Prince, who was regent during his father's absence, issued a precept to the mayor, aldermen and sheriffs of London, commanding them to shut up and fortify their city next the Tliames, against a French fleet, that had already invaded the D ^Q LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. realm in several places. In the following year the citizens advanced to tlie king the sum of 20,000 marks, raised by a general assessment on each ward. In this king's reign an- other dispute arose between liim and the Londoners, concerning an encroachment on their liberties, by the judges holding an inquisition in the Tower, wliicli ended in a general enquiry, and a new chailer. The king, wanting money to cany on the war with France, endeavoured to raise some, by compelling every citizen possessed of £40 a year to take upon himself the order of knighthood, and a writ was accordingly issued to the sheriffs ; but the citizens, not being so ibnd of honours as in later times, availed themselves of certain exceptions, and directed the sheriffs to return a refusal. In the year 1346 David, king of Scotland, who had been taken prisoner at the battle ol' Nevil's cross, was lodged in the Tower. About this time, a bridge at Westminster was first proposed, though it was not erected till within the last century. In the twenty-eighth year of tliis reign, such amity existed between the king and the citizens, that he granted them another most liberal charter, giving tliem the privilege of bearing maces of gold or silver before their chief magistrate, the same as before himself In 1357 the city was honoured with the gi-andest triumphal ])rocession that its records can boast of This was the entry of Edward the Black Prince, accompanied by his royal prisoner John king of France, who were met in Southwark by upwards of 5000 citizens on horseback, and richly accoutred. This enlai-ged procession was met by tlie mayor, alder- men, sheriffs and the cluef companies in theii' formalities with stately pageants, at the foot of London Bridge. The sti'eets of the city were adorned with the richest tapestries, and witli plate, silks and other ftirnitm'e, exhibiting their wealth. This cavalcade lasted from three in the morning till noon. Henry Picard, a past lord mayor of London, had the honour in 1363 of entertaining, at his mansion in the city, the kings of France, Scotland, and Cyprus, together with Ms own sovereign and Ms gallant son the Black prince. In furtherance of the war against France, the corporation of London lent the king a considerable sum, and at the same time i)etitioned the king and parliament against several encroachments on theii- privileges. In 1374 our great poet Chaucer was appointed comptroller of the customs in the port of London ; and in the fifteeulli yeai' of the king's reign, he granted the citizens two other charters, one explanatory of the right of choosing aldermen, and the other relative to the encouragement of foreign artificers, a wise policy, to which however the citizens objected as tending to impoverish them, and to diminish their privileges. Although this conduct of the king did not ingratiate Mm much witli the citizens, yet it did not lessen their respect for the royal family ; for in tlie same year that the king gave these privileges to foreigners, tliey entertained the princess of Wales, widow of tlie Black prince, her son prince Richard and their suite at Kennington, with a grand masquerade perfonnod by 130 citizens on horseback, who set out fi-om Newgate and proceeded over ithe bridge through Southwark to Kenmngton. About this time Wickliffe being cited before the spiritual coiut in St. Paul's cathedral, ■and a warm altercation having ensued between John duke of Lancaster the king's son, and the LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. H bishop of London, the citizens took pai't with the latter. This conduct so highly incensed the prince, that he moved in the king's name in jjailiarnent, ol" which he was president, that from that day there shoidd be no more mayor oi' London, and many other tilings sub- versive of its rights and privileges. Great riots ensued in consequence, and the mob attacked the Savoy, then tlie palace of the duke of Lancaster, nuirdered a priest and com- mitted various otlier acts of atrocity. The mayor and commonalty waited on the king, who gave them a favom-able reception and answer, but shortly after, the king's infirmities and the duke's ill will increasing, the mayor, sheriffs and aldermen were summoned to attend his majesty at Kew near Richmond. On this occasion they were less successful ; for the mayor and several of the aldermen were dismissed from their offices, and others appointed by virtue of the king's writ Shortly after this the king died and was succeeded by his grandson Richaid H. The reign of llichard IL is one of the most remarkable in the annals of the city ; for, as Mr. Norton observes, we must refer to this period the present estabhshnient of the civic government. At the coronation of this king, he being then only eleven years of age, the citizens claimed their right of acting as chief butler, wliich being allowed, the lord mayor officiated in that capacity. On this occasion, also, we find the first mention of a champion, although the present family of the Dymokes claim a more ancient date. The young king, in testimony of his regard for the citizens, gave them a confiiinatoiy charter and a mandate for maintaining their widows. He also proposed to reside within the city and offered his mediation between them and his uncle, the duke of Lancaster. After tliis the young king made his grand entry into the city, for which the most magnificent preparations were made. The credit of tlie citizens was so high at this period, that in the assessment for that poll tax, the indecent collection of which caused the insm-rection headed by AVat Tyler, tlie aldenuen were entitled and rated as barons, and tlie lord mayor as a rifflit honourable earl. This insmi-ection occurred in 1380, when Sir William Walworth was mayor. After many successes in their way from Maidstone to Blackheath, desti-oying the Temple and other public buildings in the city, they sent a message to the king and demanded a parley. The insui-gents possessed themselves of the Tower, seized and beheaded the archbishop of Canterbury and Sir Robert Hales, under circumstances of peculiar cruelty. They mur- dered many ancient citizens and foreign merchants, and committed other atrocities ; and at last agreed to a conference in Smithfield. One of the conditions proposed by their leader was that he should have a commission to behead all lawyers, escheators and others learned iu the law. At this conference Tyler behaved with such insolence to the king, that Sir Wil- liam Walworth as chief magistrate felled him to the gi'ound. The presence of mind dis- played by the king, and the successftil issue of liis address to the insm-gents, are too well known to need repetition. The king knighted the lord mayor and several of the aldermen, and in the opinion of many writers granted the augmentation of the dagger to the city arms in commemoration of this event. He also granted the coqjoration a new seal, and other honours and privileges. Li this reign the regalia and crowai jewels, pledged to the citizens, were redeemed, but the king imposed so many exactions upon them, and made so many attempts to abridge 12 LONDOiN' IN' THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. them of their privileges, that on tlio landing of the duke of Hereford (afterwards Henrv IV.), in Yorkshire, he was instantly invited to take up his residence in the city. This conduct materially tended towards the resignation of Richard. In this reign the wards were first represented in common council as at the present day. The new king Henry IV. was crowned at Westminster on the 13th Octoher 1399, at which the lord mayor and aldermen of London were admitted to their ancient rights of chief butler of England. In 1400 Emanuel Pala3ologus, emperor of the Greeks, arrived in England, and was met by the king and nobility at Blackheath, and received by the lord mayor, aldeimen, and citizens in a splendid manner. In this year also, says Fabian, Guildhall was built, instead of an old little cottage in Aldermanbiuy. Tlie walls of the city in this reign were in a regular and complete state of repair, and a clear ditch was kept around them. The streets were now for the first time lighted \^dth public lanterns, whence Mr. Norton justly infers, that the internal police of the city was under tolerably good regulation. The conservancy of the Thames was also confirmed to the citizens, who at this period were so wealthy that on a public loan the celebrated Richard Whittington advanced £'1000, wliile the opulent bishop of Durham coidd only advance 100 marks. Whittington also rebuilt Newgate, the Ubrary of the Grey Friars, pail of Bartholomew's Hospital and the college of priests on College HiU, recently puUed down and rebuilt on a new site, near the Highgate archway. On the death of Henrj' IV., whose body is supposed to have been thrown into the Thames, the tlnone was filled by the gay and gallant Henry V., who confirmed the citizens in their ancient privileges. The festivities of lord mayor's day 1415, were joyfully heightened by the aiTival of the news of the king's great victory at Agincourt, which was communicated to Nicholas Wotton, when proceeding to Westminster to be sworn. Moorgate was built in the same year for the convenience of the citizens to frequent the fields of Finsbury and the ueighboiuing v-illages. On the retium of the triiunphant king the citizens received him witli every possible demonstration of joy. Tapestrj- illustrative of his victoiy, and other showy embellishments, were displayed in the sb'eets, and the city conduits ran with wine. The lord mayor, aldermen and citizens, went in gi-and cavalcade to the king at Westminster, and presented him mth the (then) large sum of a£l000 in gold, in two rich basins of the same metal and value. The citizens, also, in honour of their king, received tlie emperor Sigismund in the most splendid manner, and advanced large sums to the king in aid of his war in France. Holbom was first paved in 1417; and in 1419, a year celebrated as the third mayoralty of the famous Sir Richard Whittington, Sir Thomas Eyre, a past lord mayor, built Leaden- hall as a public granary. This warlike monarch died in France on the 31st of August, 1422, and was buried, with much ceremony, in the cathedral of St. Paul, James, king of Scotland, officiating as chief moiuner, attended by the princes of the blood, the leading nobility and gentry of the kingdom, vrith the lord mayor, aldermen and principal citizens. Henry VI. succeeded his father, being only eight months and a few days old. He was canied in his mother's lap in an open chair tlu-ough the city to the parliament, then sitting at LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 13 Westminster. In 1423 New^'ate was rebuilt at the expense of tunds left by Sir Richard Whit- tington, and many other improvements were made to the city. After the young king's coro- nation in France, in 1431, lie was received by the mayor and citizens of London at Black- heath and conducted to the city, with gi'eat splendour ; and two days after the mayor and aldermen attended the king at Westminster, and presented Mm wth a golden hamper, con- taining ^1000 in golden nobles. In the year 1438 Sir William Eastfield, knight of the Bath and lord mayor of London, brought, at his own expense, water into the city from Tyburn and Highbiuy-Barn, and erected public conduits in Fleet Street, Aldermanbnry and Cripplegate. In the following year, the abbot of Westminster granted to the mayor and citizens of London and their suc- cessors a head of water, at Paddington, which conbibnted much to the service of the city. The king gi-iuited a sum of money for repaiiing the cross in Cheapside, and in 1443 the common council granted also 1000 marks towards erecting a new conduit at the western end. In 1448 the king pawned his plate to two London goldsmiths, and in 1450 the well known Jack Cade headed a rebellion, and took possession of the city, striking his sword upon London stone and proclaiming liimsell' " Lord of London." He exercised sovereignty within tlie city, and put the lords Say and Cromer to death without trial. The citizen.* incensed at the conduct of some of liis followers, who had plundered two wealthy alder- men, united with the king's ti'oops in the Tower, and cut off the rebel party. Three of the aldermen and many citizens however lost their lives in the conflict. The putting down of this rebellion, chiefly by the bravery of the citizens, gave such satisfaction to the king, that he made the lord mayor, Geoffrey Fielding, a privy counsellor, which is tlie first instance of a lord mayor of London being raised to so important a rank. The custom of the new lord mayor being rowed up to Westminster fust occiured in this reign in 1454, when John Norman, the lord mayor elect, buUt an elegant barge at his o\vn expense. Tliis example was followed by several of the chief companies, who attended him in tlicir respective barges splendidly decorated. The citizens distinguished themselves at this period by several revolts against the vacil- lating government of the duke of York, who had been appointed protector. One of these, as related by Fabian, was in tlie monastery of St. Martin's-le-grand, where a niunber of the inhabitants who had gi'ossly insulted the citizens had taken refuge. The lord mayor and aldermen on learning the scandalous treatment of their fellow-citizens, by the retainers of the coiut, forced the sanctuaiy and brought ofl' the assailants. The dean complained to the king, who summoned the recorder and a deputation of aldennen to attend him in Here- fordshire, where on hearing the case, he commanded the citizens to keep the aggressors in custody till his return. Another riot was occasioned by that jealousy of their liberties that always distinguished the Londoners ; for in May 1456 a young mercer, who had been denied the pri^ilege of wealing his dagger in some city in Italy, meeting an Italian in Clieapside with a dagger by his side, reproached him with his countrymen's conduct, snatched his dagger from his side and broke his head with it. This led to a general commotion and a destruction of the houses and properties of most of the Italian merchants in London. Several other commotions, which were said to have been promoted by the king's enemies, oc- E ,4 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. curred in the city. In consequence of one, that occuned in Fleet Street, between the students of tlie inns of court and the inhabitants, in wliicli tlie queen's attorney was killed, the principal of Furnival's, Clilibrd's and IJai-nard's iinis were committed prisoners to Hertford castle,- and William Taylor the alderman of the waid, with some other eminent citizens, was committed to the castle at Windsor. In the beginning of the year 1458, a reconciliation having been proposed between tlie king and the duke of York, the king and queen, with the dukes of York, Exeter and Somerset, the eails of Warwick, Northumberland and Salisbury, with many others of the principal nobility, attended by their respective retinues, arrived in the city for that pur- pose. The lord mayor caused a guard of 5000 tmst-woilhy citizens to keep guard every day luider his own inunediate command, and 2000 to relieve them by night, under the command of tlu-ee aldermen. By which prudent measure the peace of tlie city was pre- served. A compromise having taken place, the results were made known to the public, and a gi'aud procession to St. Paul's followed on the 5th of May 1458, in wliich the nobility walked in pairs, one of each party hand in hand, and the duke of York leading the queen with every external appearance of cordiality. This hollow truce lasted however but a short time ; the king's party became successful and the duke of York was compelled to flee to Ireland. Lord Scales was commanded by the king to take possession of the city, but the citizens favouring the Yorkists, the lord mayor refused to permit an ai'med force to enter within its walls. Lord Scales, however, suspecting that the citizens intended to admit the earl of March, took possession of the Tower, and threat- ened to lay the city in ashes, in case the rebels were admitted. His threats were disre- garded and lord March was received by the citiz ens with loud acclamations of joy. Scales kept his word and bombarded the city from the Tower, with such effect as to destroy a number of buildings, but the earl of Salisbury blocked up the Tower on every side and saved the city from fiulher destruction. By the death of the diAe of York, in a dreadful battle between the partisans of the rival houses of York and Lancaster, his son Edward Plautagenet, who is above mentioned as earl of March, succeeded to Ms father's title, and prosecuted the unholy war with the most implacable resentment. The eail of Warwick distrusting the citizens and not choosing to be cooped up ■s\dtliin their walls, marched out against the queen's army, where he was defeated in a desperate battle at Barnard's Heath, near St. Alban's. The young duke of York entered London on the 21st of February 1461, and was received by the citizens, who had pre\'iously cut off the queen's supplies, with the gi'eatest rapture, and he was proclaimed king by a large body of them in Clerkenwell Fields on the pro- posal of the earl of Warwick. A council was immediately held at Baynard's Castle ; the new king rode in procession to St. Paxd's, and, after being crowned at Westminster, re- timied to the city by water, where, taking up his residence at the bishop of London's palace, he was proclaimed king by the name of Edward IV. In truth, says Mr. Norton, the good will of the citizens was thought by Edward to be so main a bulwark of his throne, that he never failed during the coiuse of his reign to use every means of pre- LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 15 Ben'ing it. Besides securing to tliom in the most ample manner their ancient privileges, he increased them by the gi-ant of several very beneficial charters ; and even conde- scended to live among them on terms of the most convivial famili;u'ity. Edwai'd, though only in the twentieth year of his age, had scarcely ascended the throne, when he exhibited symptoms of a sanguinaiy disposition. He beheaded an opulent citizen, a gi-ocer in Cheapside, for saying he would make liis son heii- to the crown, meaning liis own shop, of wluch it was the sign. On the same day he marched his army tlu-ough the city out at Bishopsgate, in search of his rival the unfortunate Henry, to whom he gave victo- rious battle at Towton, Ln Yorkshke. On his retmui he went from his palace at Sheen r from the court of lieutenancy of the city, expressing similiu- sentiments. Many tumults took place in the city during this state of interregnum ; and in one of them the infamous judge Jeffiies was discovered in the disguise of a sailor at Wapping, waiting for an opportunity to escape from a country whose justice he had so abused, where he was seized by the populace, and beaten to such a degree, that he shortly after died of his bruises. On the abdication of James, the Prince of Orange called a council of sucn persons as liad been members of any of Charles the second's parliaments, together with the lord mayor, the aldermen, and fifty of the court of common council, to consult on the settlement of the go- vernment; and raised a loan from the city of two hundred thousand pounds to pay the soldiers. The government being finally settled in the persons of William Prince of Orange and the princess Mary his consort, daughter of tlie dethroned monarch, as king and queen of England, they were proclaimed in the city with the usual honours, and many acts of courtesy passed between the king and the citizens. He restored the charter of Charles II., under the authority of an act of parliament, and granted them another, which constituted certain of the aldermen justices of the peace within the city, and restored the citizens to all their ancient rights and privileges. In tlie year 1694 the establislnnent of the Orphan's fimd took place, and that now great commercial and political corporation the Bank of England was instituted. This year is remarkable also for the death of queen Mar\', on which occasion the lord mayor and corpora- tion presented an addi-ess of condolence to the king. In 1697 the king visited the corpora- tion on his return from Holland after the treaty of Rhyswick, and was received with cordial and sincere regard. On the death of James II., in France, the French king caused his son to be pro- claimed king in his stead, notwithstanding the late treaty of peace with WiUiam. Tliis con- duct was so highly resented by the citizens, that they presented a very spirited address to the lords justices who governed in the king's absence. King William dying at Hampton Coiu-t on the 21st of February, 1702, the princess Anne, daughter of James, was proclaimed queen, to the universal satisfaction of the nation. On the great victory over the Frencli, her majesty attended a public thanksgiving at St. Paul's, accompanied by both houses of parliament, when the citizens rendered the ceremony more than usually splendid. In 1703 the city was doomed to another great calamity; for in the night of the 16th ot November there happened the most dreadful storm of wind that had occuiTed in the memory of man. It began about ten at night, and raged with imabated violence till seven in the morning. The damage done to the buildings of the metropolis was prodigious. Tlie newly buUt and the then building churches were variously injured, and the damage done in the city alone has been estimated at two millions of money. It was on this occa- sion, when Sir Christopher Wren was informed that all his new steeples had been damaged, LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 33 replied with the rapidity of thought " not St. Dunstan's I am sure :" and the mathematical ;irchitcct was right, for it was almost the only one that was perfectly undamaged. The standards, colours and other military tropliies taken by the duke of Marlborough at Blenheim, having been deposited in the Tower, were escorted in grand procession through tlie city, and put up in Westminster Hall. The year 1710 is celebrated in civic history, as that wherein fifty new churches were ordered by act of parliament to be erected witliin the cities of London and Westminster, and two sliilhugs a chaldron laid on coals to defray the expenses; and 1713 for the peace with France, when both houses of pai'liament came in procession into the city and joined ' tlie lord mayor and citizens in a public act of thanksgiving in St. Paul's cathedral. Queen Anne died on the 1st of August 1714, when the elector of Hanover was pro- claimed king, with the usual solemnities, as George I., and was attended by the cor- poration. He knighted the leading members and dined in public \nth them on the following lord mayor's day at Guildhall, when he conferred a patent of baronetcy on the lord mayor, and gave £1000 to tlie poor debtors. On the threatened invasion, the city displayed its usual loyalty whenever their king be- haved with even tolerable propriety, and the rebellion in Scotland under the eai'l of Mar was but of short duration. The year 1720 will always be memorable in our history for the celebrated scheme of plunder known by the name of the South-sea bubble, wliich reduced nobles, merchants, bankers, clergymen, lawj'ers and tradesmen to utter ruin. In consequence of the gi'eat increase of the western submb of London in 1722, tlie .society called the Chelsea water-works company was established by the authority of par- liament to supply them with water; and another usefid act for the regulation of party- walls, and water-spouts overhanging public streets, was also enacted. In 1724 Guy's hospital, of which an account will be found in our fui'ther pages, was built and endowed by a book- seller whose name it bears, and the city increased in wealth and importance. On the 11th of June 1727 tlie king died at Osnabiugh in Gennany, and was succeeded by his son George II., who was immediately proclaimed by the lord mayor and cor- l^oration in the ancient and usual manner, and publicly congi-atulated by them on his accession to the tlirone. The king and queen afterwai'ds dined at Guildliall, where they were entertained with great splendour and hospitality. On the 26tli of February 1733 the corporation petitioned the house of conunons and obtained leave by act of parliament to stop up and ai-ch over Fleet ditch, and subsequently erected Fleet market on its summit, which has been very recently taken down and converted into Faningdon Sti-eet. Fleet mai-ket was opened on the 30th of September 1737, and was taken down about the same month of the year 1829. In 1738 the citizens rendered themselves unpopular with the court party by their sti'enuous and successful opposition to the general excise laws. The miscan-iage of this odious mea- sure was celebrated by public rejoicings all over the metropolis, and the efEgy of Sii- Robert Walpole, the minister who projected it, was burnt amidst gi-eat acclamations. Sir Robert re- taliated by calling the citizens a set of sturdy beggars, and circulated printed lists of the members of the corporation with the addition of their several trades and companies, in K 34 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. order to bring them into contempt by showing the low nature of the callings of many of them. The citizens again testified their dislike of the premier, by rejecting the senior alderman from the office of lord mayor for voting in favour of the minister. Until about this period no particular building liad been provided for the use of the lord mayor for tlie time being. Each chief magistrate held his mayoralty either at the hall of his company, or in a private mansion of his own, erected or enlarged for the purpose ; of which private mansions tliere are yet many remaining in the city. This method being found inconvenient, and deficient in appropriate grandeur for the grof^ving importance of tJie office, the coi-poration resolved to build a mansion for the use of the lord mayor. Aftei' much deliberation the site of Stocks market, which had recently been removed to Fleet market, was fixed upon, and the first stone was laid by the lord mayor (alderman Perry) on the 25th of October, 1739, with great ceremony. It was finished in 1753, Sir Crisp Gascoigne being the first lord mayor who inhabited it. Tlie year 1739 is also celebrated in our history for the estabhshment and erection of the Foundling Hospital. On the 15th of August, 1741, the king granted the city a new charter, which after reciting the charter of Charles II . and also that of William and JMary (which only appointed certain of the aldermen to be justices, and required either the mayor or recorder to be of the quorum), constitutes* all the aldennen for the time being justices of the peace, and makes the mayor, the recorder, and all those aldermen who have passed the chair, of the quorum. Tliis chai'ter is the last which has been granted to the city. On the erection of the rebel standard in Scotland by one of the Pretender's sons, a message was sent by tlie king to the lord mayor and corporation, who waited on his majesty with a loyal address. This was followed on the succeeding day by one from the merchants of the city. The principal inhabitants formed themselves into volunteer corps for the national defence, and the members of the inns of court formed themselves into a regiment under the command of the lord chief justice Welles. The corporation subscribed a voluntary contribution of money, in which they were joined by the quakers, who transmitted warm woollen clothing to the army. The close of this rebellion by the battle of Culloden is well known, and the corporation sincerely congratulated their constitutional king on the happy event. The surplus of the money raised by the corporation, and not required for the public service, was distributed to various useful charities. On the 18th of December, 1755, the comt of common council resolved to petition parlia- ment for leave to build a new bridge over tlie Tiiames at Blackfriars, w^hich was presented on the 13th of January following, and an act of parliament shortly after obtained for that purpose. Tins period is also celebrated for the establishment of that usefiil charity, the Marine Society, by the benevolent exertions of Jonas Hanway. The city experienced another calamity firom the ravages of fire, by the total destruction of the timber bridge that was erected over the Thames, w'hile the last important additions, repairs, and improvements were going on. The colours taken from the French at Louisburgh, were escorted in grand procession on the 6th of September, 1758, from Ken- • Norton's Commentaries, p. 530, LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 35 sington Palace to St. Paul's Cathedral, where thoy were deposited as national trophies ; and on the 16th a number of pieces of artillery and mortal's taken at Cherburgh were siniilaily conducted through the city to the Tower. The first step towards the many recent improrements in the city may be said to have been taken about this time; for at a court of common council held on the 17th of June, 1760 (the same month wherein the first pile was driven for the building of Blackfriars' Bridge), the committee of city lands were empowered to put in execution an act of parliament passed in the ensuing sessions for widening and improiang the several streets in the city. Their first work was to open the east end of Crutched Friars into the Minories. The city gates were also sold and pulled down ; and the statue of queen Elizabeth, wliich stood on the western side of Ludgate, was purchased by alderman Gosling, and set up against the east end of St. Dunstan's church in Fleet Street, fi^om which place it will shortly be removed when that ancient edifice is puUed down. A few days after the king had been waited on with a congratulatoiy address bj' the lord mayor and corporation on the completion of the conquest of Canada by the capture of Montreal, he expired suddenly on the 25th of October, 1760, and was succeeded by his grandson George III. Tlie new king was proclaimed on the following day in the fi-ont of SaviUe House in Leicester Square, his then residence, in presence of the leading nobility and gentry, and the lord mayor, aldermen, and common council, who afterwards proclaimed the youthftil monaich with the customaiy fonualities in the usual places within the city. No reign has ever been of more importance in our liistory than that of George III. Whether it be considered for its duration, its military and political struggles, or the gi-eat improvements in the public and private buildings that have taken place in the meti'opolis : improvements, however, that are honourably rivalled by those of om- present king. Tlie mayor and corporation attended tlie coronation of the king and queen, and their majesties honoured them by dining with them in pubhc at Guildhall. The court of common council erected a statue of the king in the Royal Exchange, and voted portraits of their majesties to be put up in Guildhall ; other civilities and courtesies passed between the new king and the citizens, which were not of longer duration than those of their predecessors. On the 12th ol August, 1762, the queen gave birth to a prince, his present majesty, and on the 14tli the lord mayor, aldermen, and common coimcO, waited on the king with a congratulatory addiess. Shortly after this event, the fii-st disputes between the king and the citizens began by the arrest of John Wilkes, under the authority of the now exploded system of general warrants. Tliese disputes continued for a length of time, with little credit and less profit to either party. Among events of more peaceful and lasting interest, the common council voted £500 to the Society of Arts in the Adelphi, and the king established the Royal Academy of Arl<. On the 14th of May, 1770, the lord mayor (Beckfovd) laid the first stono of the new prison of Newgate, which was the last public act of that eminent person's life, whose merits were acknowledged by his fellow citizens in erecting a bad statue in Guildhall to his memory. ^5 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. About this period tlie coqjoration got into a dispute with the house of commons, whose authority in tlie city they denied by refusing to execute their warrants, and even by dis- cliai'ging the prisoners that were arrested by them, The house resented this contempt by committing the lord mayor (Crosby) and alderman Oliver to the Tower. The conduct of these two magistrates was so much approved by the common council that a vote of thaidis was given them, and a committee appointed to conduct their defence at the expense of the city. At the prorogation of the parliament they were liberated as a matter of course, and tlie procession from the Tower to the Mansion House partook of the nature of a triumph. In the year 1777 the angry feelings which had been playing about the political horizon, between the British colonies in America and the mother countiy, began to assume a more decided feature, and the citizens of London took an active part in the discussions. Warm disputes also arose relative to the right of impressing seamen within the city, which was strenuously opposed by the corporation. The civil war which now raged between England and her American colonies was opposed by the citizens in every possible vvay, and the opponents of government were flatteringly received in all theii' public meetings. John Wilkes was elected chamberlain of the city on the 22nd of November, 1779, by a very large majority. In the following year the city was disgi-aced by those memorable riots which had religion for their pretended basis. Its principal leader, lord George Gordon, was at length committed to Newgate, and the peace of the city re-established. The lord mayor, aldennan Kennett, was tried for liis misconduct during these disgracefiil scenes and found guilty. Owing to reasons which have never been publicly acknowledged, the health of the king suffered extremely, and his majesty's mental powers sank under their exertions. This occasioned great and real public grief; for the private virtues of George III. were acknow- ledged by all classes of his subjects. The corporation and members of the city took part with the ministry in the memorable regency question, which was suddenly put an end to by the king's recovery. On the 10th of March, 1789, tlie day on which his majesty's recovery was officially announced to the public, the whole metropolis was splendidly illuminated, and all ranks joined in congratulations. On the 19th the corporation presented a loyal and sin- cere address, and on the 23rd of April his majesty, accompanied by the queen, the royal family, both houses of parUament, and the whole corporation of London, attended a public semce at St. Paul's cathedral, to return thanks for his recovery. The procession from Westminster, and the reception in the city, were equally grand and suitable to the occasion. The next occurrences that are memorable in the city history are the long revolutionary war with France, the peace, the popular regency and peacefiil reign of our present king, dining which period the metropolis has received those splendid improvements that are the subjects of our other volume. " But it is true," says Mr. Norton in his commentaries, " thatmany events, exciting intense temporaiy interest of a political nature, have from tune to time agitated the city ; but as none of them produced a lasting, if any, effect on its genuine cor- porate privileges or constitution, it is conceived the history of them may be properly left to those volumes which have treated of them at large." LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 37 St. Paul's Cathedral. The cathedral church of St. Paul is not only the master-piece of its illustrious architect, Sir Christopher Wren, but is at the same time one of the purest specimens of Italian archi- tectiu'e, and altogether the finest modern Protestant cathedi-al in Em'ope. With {he ancient catliedral that stood on tliis spot, previous to the fire of London, this work has nothing to do ; yet the fine Corinthian portico, that was most inappropriately added to its west end by Inigo Jones, must not be passed by without recording the opinion of the celebrated earl of Burlington in its favour, who, when viewing the smaller columns of the present building, exclaimed " when the Jews saw the second temple they wept." After many accidents by tempests and fire, the ancient cathedral became so dilapidated that the dean and chapter, in 1662, fitted up a portion of the choir for divine service; and in the following year a royal commission was issued under the great seal appointing Wren to be the architect to the proposed repairs, and ordering a survey and report of its condition to be made : for wliich pm-pose he commenced taking a series of plans and sections of every part of the structure, and laid down his intended improvements. Among these he proposed adding an Italian cupola to Jones' Corinthian portico, which, with the Gothic spire and pointed arches of the rest of the ancient edifice, would but have increased the jumble of its discordant parts. To the credit of Charles II., who had improved his taste and knowledge of the fine arts during his exile fi-om his kingdom and his tluone, one of the principal objects which occu- pied Ms mind on his retimi was the reparation of that cathedral wliich had engaged the talents of his father, and grandfather, and their tasteful architect Inigo Jones. During the government of the commonwealth the revenues of the cathedral had been confiscated, its clergy expelled, its ancient monuments profaned, saw-pits dug in various parts of its sacred inclosure, and its venerable choir converted into horse-barracks for the OUverian troopers. Charles, on his restoration, expelled the rabble fi'om their quarters in the cathedral, re- stored the clergy, and commenced tlie work of reparation with zeal and honesty. John Evelyn was also employed with Wren on this survey, and agreed with him that the expan- sion of the walls was the effect of decay and stress of the roof, and not a pm-posed design for increasing an optical effect ! as some of the other sur\^eyors reported. During the discussion of this and other points relating to the cathedral, the dehberations of the commissioners were closed by the awful burning of the greater part of the city, which struck teiTor into the minds of the whole nation. After this di'eadful conflagration, which has however conferred important benefits on suc- ceeding generations. Wren was appointed one of the commissioners, as well as architect, for rebuilding the riuned city and the cathedral. His first operation was to fit up a portion of the dilapidated cathedral, by way of a temporary choir, in which the dean and prebends might perform divine service until the old cathedral should be repaired, or a new one be built. Xi 38 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. The fniitless endeavours to repair tlie old cathedral continued till the year 1668, when the question was nearly brought to an issue by the falling of ])art of the western end, which had been fitted up for a temporary choir. After various deliberations, letters, reports and meetings. Wren's judgment and science prevailed over the narrow-mindedness and self-suffi- ciency of his opponents. An order was therefore issued by the king in council to take down the walls, clear the ground, and to adopt other proceedings, exactly as recommended in tbe architect's report. A portion of the duty on coals, which was levied for the rebuilding of the city and parochial churches, was set apart exclusively to the cathedral. In the year 1C71, and during the jjrogress of the works. Wren found the site so encum- bered with the old materials and nibbish, that it was impossible to proceed with the neces- sary investigation of the ruins, which, contrary to his opinion, the commissioners were still anxious to repaii-. He therefore obtained proper authority, sold the old materials, and had the money paid into the chamber of the city in aid of the new building. It was not till the year 1673 that the futile idea of repairing the old cathedral was aban- doned, when the architect was desired to make designs for an entire new edifice, worthy the honom- of the country, and calculated to rival every edifice of its kind in Europe. Wren, therefore, prepared various designs for the new cathedral, and submitted them to the king and the commissioners. Finally, one was adopted and the works were began, imder a royal commission bearing date November 12, 1673. Su' Christopher, having appointed his officers, and began clearing the ruins, preparatory to laying the new foundation, the great work of rebuilding, instead of repairing the cathedral, commenced. The various annoyances that he sustained dming its progress are satisfactoiily detailed in works which relate to this subject. Suffice it to say, in this more brief account, that in the beginning of the year 1675 the first contract was made for a portion of the works between the commissioners and the architect on the one part, and Thomas Strong, who also built the chiu-ch of St. Stephen's, Walbrook, and other public buildings under Sir Christopher, on the other. Shortly afterward, the king and the privy council approved the designs, and issued a warrant dated the 1 Itli of March, 1 675, directed to the commissioners, empowering the architect to proceed and complete his great work. The first stone was laid the 21st of June following; and in the beginning of April, 1685, the walls of the choir and the stupendous arched vaults below the pavement were completed, as well as the two beautiful semicircular porticoes of the north and south transepts. In 1687 the commissioners contracted for roofing the nave and aisles of the choir, and in 1694 it was finished as far as the stonework, and the scaffolds of this part were struck both Irom within and without. Evelyn in his diary records it as being a piece of construction without reproach. On the 2nd of December, 1696, the choir was opened for divine service on the day of the public thanksgiving for the peace of Rhyswick; and on the 1st of February, 1699, that beautiful portion of the building, the morning prayer chapel, was also opened for divine sen'ice with appropriate cere- monies. In 1708 the works of the cathedral approached so near to completion that on the 23rd of Febniary Sir Herbert Mackworth, in the house of commons, brought up from the commis- sioners a report that the cupola was ready for covering, and it was ordered to be done in tlie LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 39, manner now seen. The statue of Queen Anne in the fore court of the cathedral, carved by Bird, was erected during tlie course of this year. In the year 1710, when Sir Christoplier bad attained the seventy-eightli year of liis age, tlie highest stone of the lantern on the summit of the cupola was laid by his eldest son Christopher, assisted by the architect, Mr. Strong the master mason, and the lodge of free- masons, of which Sir Christopher had been for many years the active as well as acting master. In the following year the well known persecution, so fully related in the various pamphlets of the day, was began against the architect, who appealed to Queen Anne \\ ilh- out much success. Thus was tliis noblest of Protestant cathedrals began and completed, as far as building goes, in the space of thirty-five years, by one architect, one principal master mason, and under one bishop of London ; while the Catholic cathedral of St. Peter's, at Rome, occupied a space of 150 yeai-s in building, was the work of more than twenty architects, supported by the treasure of the whole christian community, under the protection and pontificates of nine- teen successive popes, attended by the best artists of the world in sculptiu-e, painting and musaic, and facilitated by the ready acquisition of marble from the neighbouring quanics of Tivoli. In the year 1714 the commission for building the cathedral expii-ed, and in May 1715 a new commission was issued, dated the 1st of George I., for the caiTying on, finishing and adorning the caUiedral of St. Paul. In 1717 tlie commissioners erected the balustrade round the whole building on the summit of the upper cornice, in direct opposition to the wishes and declared opinions of its architect. The plan of St. Paul's cathedral is a long, or, as it is architecturally termed, a Latin cross, widened at the west end by projections that form the morning prayer chapel and the coiu-t of consistory. In the angles of junction, where the north and south transept cross the naves, are similar projections that form buttresses to the cupola, and serve for vestries and staircases. Each end of the transept is terminated by a beautiful semicircular portico, which for originality of design, beauty of execution, justness of proportion and appropriate- ness of character, are not surpassed in any modem building. The intersection of the body of the cathedral by the transepts is formed into a grand and spacious area. The four great piers that support the cupola are boldly perforated, which gives surprising lightness and elegance to the design. The end of the choir is terminated by a semicircular recess in which is the altar. We will first take a view of this cathedral fi-om the river, where, overtopping the lofty warehouses that crowd upon its base, it looks like a palace of the Csesars rising fi'om a dimghill. The contrast, however, in a picturesque point of view, is in favour of the cathe- dral, and serves to enhance its beauties, while it conceals one of its greatest defects, the double tier of stories without, to only one stoiy within. The lower of these stories is of the Corinthian order, after that of the Pantheon at Rome, and the upper of the composite, in which the architect has used his own invention in its composition, without deviating from ancient niles of harmony and proportion. 40 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. In this view of the cathedral, the before-mentioned projections in the angles of the inter- section of the transepts and body come beautifiilly into play, as wings to the elevation of the transept, and correspond harmoniously with the projections of the consistorial court that adjoins the south-western tower. See plate of the view of St. PauVs Cathedral from the river. The variety of light and shade occasioned by this arrangement of the parts, and the reflection of how necessary these beautiful additions are to the stability of the work, are, when thus considered, doubly pleasing and satisfactory, and raise our opinions of the talent and ingenuity of its eminent architect. Of the towers I will speak when we consider the western elevation, but in no view does the majestic cupola appear to more advantage than from this situation. First, the plain tambour or base of the peristyle rises above the roof, with plain simplicity, and forms a lofty base to its superstructiu"e, wliicb is sufficiently beautiful at a distance, and absolutely necessary in a neare^ point of view to elevate the columns above the entablature of the main building. This circular stylobate is crowned by an efficient cornice, which supports a cir- cular peristyle of tliirty-two Corinthian columns of singular beauty and originality of style. Eight paii-s of these columns are connected by walls which contain staircases, and moreover serve as buttresses and points of support to the cupola and its interior cone which rise above them. The otlier columns are detached ; and the depth of shade produced by the retroces- sion of the interior sloping wall, that forms the back of the portico of the peristyle, forms a contrast of exquisite beauty. The columns are somewhat loftier or more slender in their proportions than the Vitruvian canons allot to the Coiinthian order. The bases are higher than authorities allow, and the capitals are also similarly elongated, and have but one row of leaves round the beU of the capital under the volutes instead of two. Such variations from standard authorities can only be ventured upon by a consummate master of the art, who knows the requisites for producing a satisfactory effect. The lofty situation of these columns diminish the appaient number of their modules in height, by the angle in \\'hich they are mostly seen, and columns of a more just proportion would have appeai'ed shortened of their fair proportions at such an height. So also of the capitals, as to height, and as to the single row of water leaves in- stead of the two rows of raffled leaves as the order requires, the variation is an improvement in effect, at the distance from which they are mostly viewed. A true Corinthian, at that height would not have produced half so fine an eflfect as this artist-Kke composition of Wren. The entablatm-e of tliis majestic peristyle is unbroken, and encu'cles it, as the belt of Saturn does its mighty planet in the heavens. Above this rises a necessary, and therefore beautiful, balustrade. Not such a one as the great architect complained of ha%-ing forced upon his work, like an edging of Mechlin lace, upon the broad cloth habit of an English yeoman ; but as a necessary appendage and protection to the circular terrace walk behind it : in fact it is a gallery. Over and within this gallery rises a circular attic, divided by as many pilasters as there are columns in the peristyle below. Between them are square sunk panels, some of which LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 41 have perforated angles for light and air, and iioni tlie cornice of this supplementary order the outer and upper cupola arises of a semi-elliptic form, beautifully ribbed and fluted in massive lead. Alternately the ribs are shortened and give light to the windows within, in a manner much .more beautiful, scientific, and effective than the lantern windows that dis- figure its majestic prototype in modern Rome. The summit of the cupola is smmountcd by a circular iron gallery, called by the vergers and showmen of the cathedral " the golden," though it does not appear that it was ever gilt. Inside of this is elevated the lofty lanteni, which is composed of a stylobate, a kind of quad- rangular temple of the Corinthian order, which is surmounted by a well-proportioned attic, covered by a quadrangular cupola and a magnificent ball and cross, which from having been recently renewed by Mr. Cockerel!, the present architectural surveyor of the cathedral, and sjjlendidly gilt, shines in the evening sun like a meteor in the distant sky. The coarsely canned figures of the apostles, which crown the petliuient and acroteria of the south ti'ansept, ai'e softened by the distance from wliich they are here seen into more beauty tlian their clumsy hewing, for it can scarcely be callel, Stationers' Hall Court. On the north side of Ludgatc Hill, in Stationers' Court, is Stationers' Hall. This building stands on the site of a mansion which anciently belonged to the dukes of Bretagne ; after which it was possessed by the earls of Pembroke, and, in Queen Elizabeth's time, by Henry lord Abergavenny. Finally, it belonged to the Stationers' Company, who rebuilt it of wood, and made it their Hall. This building, however, shared in the common calamity of 1666, and was succeeded by the present brick edifice, which was afterwards newly fronted with stone. It is a spacious, convenient building, enlightened by a single series of windows, over each of which is placed a neat medallion. The entrance is from a small paved court, enclosed with a dwarf wall, surmounted by an iron railing. Beneath the Hall, and at the north end of it, are warehouses for the Company's stock. Clothworkers' Hall, Mincing Lane. On the north side of Tower Street is Mincing Lane, anciently called Mincheon Lane, which is handsomely built, and well inhabited ; on tlie east side of it, near the north end, stands Clothworkers' Hall, a neat brick building, with fluted columns of the same, having Corinthian capitals of stone. The HaU is a lofty room, adorned with wainscot to the ceiling, which is of curious fi-et-work. The screen at the south end is of oak, with foiu pilasters, their entablatures and compass pediment of the Corinthian order, enriched \vith the arms of the Company and palm branches. Tlie west end is adorned with the figures of king James and king Charles I., richlj' caned, as large as life, in their robes, with regalia, all gilt and highly finished. At this end of the hall is a spacious window of stained glass, on M'hich ai-e the king's arms, as also tliose of Sir John Robinson, Bart., his majesty's lieutenant of the Tower of London, lord mayor of the city in the year 1663, and president of tlie Artillery Company. Goldsmiths' Hall, Foster Lane. At the north-east corner of Foster Lane stands the hall belonging to the Company of Goldsmiths. This spacious building supplies the place of one which was originally erected by Drew Berentin, about the year 1407, but was destroyed by the fire of London. It is an irregular structure, built with brick, and the comers WTOught in rustic of stone. The door is large, arched, and decorated with Doric columns, which support a pediment of the arched kind, but open for a shield, in which are the eu'ms of the Company, The hall room is spacious, and both that and the other rooms are well enlightened. It is however proposed to pull down and rebuild it, as part of the improvements connected with the neighbourhood of the New Post Office. london in the ninetkknth century. 77 Middlesex Hospital. This hospital was instituted in the year 1745, for the rehef of the indigent, sick, and lame, at wliich time, and for several years after, it was can-ied on in l«'o coinenient houses adjoining to each other, in Windmill Street, Tottenham Court Road. Tlie benefactions of the public having gieatly increased, the governors, in 1747, extended their plan to the relief of pregnant wives of the industrious poor ; when the gi'eat increase of patients soon obliged them to think of enlarging their edifice as well as their plan, and, by tlie benevolence of the contributors, they were enabled, in 1755, to erect the present building, wliich at that time was situated in the oi)en fields. That part of the institution which relates to the admission of pregnant women was altered about fifteen years ago, in consequence of an offer made by an unknown person, through the medium of a respectable surgeon, to advance i'3000, and to settle .£300 per annum on the hospital, provided the governors would appropriate a ward for the reception and cure of cancerous diseases. Such an offer was not to be rejected, and the obstacle to its adoption was the unwillingness of the governors to nan-ow tlie extent of their charity, to the exclusion of some part of those who were already within its scope. It being, however, suggested that deliveriug mamed women at home woidd, in most cases, be a more effectual and beneficial relief to them than obliging them to pass the period of their confinement in an hospital, secluded fi'om their families, it was determined to appropriate the lying-in ward to the desired purpose, and to provide those who might want it with obstetrical assistance, medicine, and nurses, at their own habitations, by wliich means the managers of this charity were enabled to accept the benevolent oiler ; and since that period the upper part of the hospital has been devoted solely to the cure of that disease. Thougli this building is exceeding plain, yet it has a ver}' decent appearance, and is ac- commodated with every convenience to answer the charitable purposes for which it was erected. Chakter House. This charitable foundation was instituted for the maintenance of a master, a preacher, a head schoolmaster, a second master, and eighty pensioners, consisting of decayed gentlemen, merchants, or otliers, reduced by misfortunes, who are j)rovided with handsome apartments, and all the necessaries of life, except clothes ; instead of which, each of them is allowed a cloak and fourteen pounds per annum. There are also forty-four bovs supported in the house, where they have good lodgings, and are instmcted in classical learning. From among these, are chosen twenty -nine students at the Universities, who are each allowed twenty pounds per annum, for eight years. Others, who are judged more fit for trades, are put out apprentices, and the sum of forty pounds is given Avith each of them. As a farther encou- ragement to the scholars brought up in this foundation, there are nine ecclesiastical prefer- X 78 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. ments in the patronage of the governors, wlio, according to the constitution of the charity, are to confer them upon those who receive their education in tliat school. The pensioners and scholars are taken in at the recommendation of the governors, who appoint in rotation. The Charter House is situated between St. John's Street on the west, Goswell Street on the east, Long Lane on the south, and Wilderness Row on the north. There is scarcely any vestige of the conventual building, which is said to have stood where the garden now is. The present buildings were erected by the Duke of Norfolk ; they are very irregular? and have little to recommend them but their convenience and situation. The rooms are well disposed, and the court within, though small, is very neat. In one comer of this court is a handsome chapel, in which, among others, is a very superb monument, erected to the memory of Mr. Thomas Sutton, the founder ; on which is his effigy, habited in a gown, and in a recumbent posture. On each side is a man in armoiu-, standing upright, £ind above, a preacher represented as addressing a full congregation. In the front of these build- ings is a very handsome square, and behind, a large garden, which at once contributes to the Iieallh and to the pleasure of those who receive the benefit of so valuable a foundation. Middle Temple. The entrance into the Middle Temple, from Fleet Street, is by a very handsome gate, wliich was built in the style of Inigo Jones, in the year 1684. The front of it, though narrow, is graceful : it is built of brick, with four large stone pilasters of the Ionic order and a handsome pediment. In a coiu^se of stone, between the first and second storj', is cut the following inscription: — Surrexit inqiensis societat. Med. Templi, m.dc.LXXXIV., and beneath it, just over the gate, is the figure of a Holy Lamb. The great hall belonging to the Middle Temple is verj' spacious and beautiful, and is esteemed one of the finest halls in the kingdom. It was originally built in the reign of Edwaid III., but the present edifice was erected in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, in the year 1572. It is ornamented with paintings by Sir James Thomhill, and contains full- length portraits of those pillais of the law — Littleton and his able but insolent commentator Coke. In the treasury chamber of the Middle Temple is preser\'ed a great quantity of armoirr which belonged to the Knights' Templars, consisting of helmets, breast and back pieces, a halbard, and two very beautiful shields, with iron spikes in their centres, of the length of six inches, and each about twenty pounds weight. They are curiously engraved, and one of them richly mlaid with gold ; the insides are lined with leather stufiied, and the edges are adorned with silk fringe. In Gai-den Court, in the Middle Temple, is a library fovmded by the will of Robert Ashley, Esq., in the year 1641, who bequeathed his owu library for that purpose, and £300 to be laid out in a purchase, for the maintenance of a librarian, who must be a student of the society, and be elected into that office by the benchers. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 79 The Inner Temple is situated to tlie east of tlie Middle Temple, and has a cloister, a lav,i' Aldermaiy. This church, which is a rectory, owes its name to its dedication to the Virgin Mary ; and the additional epithet of Aldemiary, to Older, or Elder Mary, from its being LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 81 the oldest clnircli in tliis city dedicated to the said virgin. It is one of tlic peculiars be- longing to the Archbishop of Cauterbiuy, and was founded before the conquest, under the Saxon kings. In the 3ear 1.510 Sir Henrj' Keble, lord mayor of London, bequeathed i'lOOO towards rebuilding this church. And, in 1626, William llodoway gave towards the buikUng of the steeple, then greatly decayed, the sum of £'3000 ; and Richard Pierson, about the same year, gave 200 marks towards the same works, with condition that this steeple, thus to be built, should follow its ancient pattern, and go forward and be finished according to the foundation of it laid before by Sir Henry Keble ; which, within three years after, was so finished, that, notwithstanding the body of the church Mas bm'nt in the fire of 1666, the steeple remained firm and good. That part of it which was consumed was afterwards rebuilt in its present form by the munificence of Henry Rogers, Esq., as appears by a Latin inscription over the \^est door of the chmxh. This Gothic edifice is very spacious, it being 100 feet in length and sixty-three in breadth ; the height of the roof is forty-five feet, and that of the steeple 135. Tlie body is enlightened by a single series of large Gothic windows. The ^vall has well-contrived buttresses and battlements ; these buttresses run up pilaster fashion, in two stages, not projecting in the old manner from the body of the building. The tower, which is full of ornaments, consists of five stages, each of which, except the lowest, has one Gothic window ; and the pinnacles, which are properly so many turrets, ai'e continued at each corner down to the ground, divided into stages as the body of the tower, and cabled with small pillai's bound round it, with a kind of arched A\ork, and .subdivisions betv^een. Church of St. Michael, Cornhill. This church, standing on the south side of Cornhill, is a rectory, and owes its name to its dedication to St. Michael, the Archangel, and its situation. The patronage of it appears to have been anciently in the abbot and convent of Eversham, eiToneously called Coversham, who, in the year 1133, granted the same to Spaiiing, a priest, witli all the lands thereunto belonging, except those held by Orgar le Proud, at the rent of 2.s. a yeai' ; in consideration of which grant, the said Sparling cove- vanted and agieed, not only to pay annually, to the abbot and canons, the sum of 13.v. 4(1., but likewise to supply the house of the said abbot (when in London) with fire, water, and salt. Some time afterwards, the rectory reverted to the convent, and they continued patrons of it until the year 1503, when, by a deed bearing date December 3, they con\e} ed the advowson to the Drapers' Company, in consideration of a peii^etual annuity of £o. 6s. Sd., in addition to an ancient pension of 6s. Sd. annually, paid to the abbot and canons, out of the said church ; since which time, the patronage has continued to be in the Drapers' Company. V 82 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. The old church being destioyed by the fire of London, in 1666, tlie present Gothic structure arose in its stead ; the body of which is se\enty feet long, sixty broad, thirty-five in height, and 1;}0 feet to the top of the tower. Tlie lo\\er part of the tower occupies the centre of the church ; and, on each side, tliere is a regular extent of building. Tlie prin- jp.ll door opens in the lower stage of the tower, whicli rises with angulatcd corners fi-om the giound, forming a kind of base, terminated at the height of the body of the chmxh. The second stage, which is plain and lofty, has two tall windows, one over the otlier, properly shaped for the style of the building : this is tenninated with a truly Gothic cornice. The third stage is exactly in the form of the two others, only they are plain and this is covered with ornaments; the angidated corners are fluted, and terminated by chembs' heads, under a cornice ; the plain face, between, has four windows, in two series. Above the cornice, over tlie uppermost of these ^\indows, runs a battlement, on the plain faces of the tower, and from the corners are earned up four beautiful fluted tuiTcts, cased, a part of their height, with Doric turrets; these terminate in jiinnacle heads, from within which rises a spii'e at each comer, crowned with a vane. The tower contains an excellent ring of bells, remarkable for their melody. Church of St. Olave Jewry, Old Jewry. On the west side of Old Jewiy stands the parish church of St. Olave Jewry, of verj' ancient foundation, and originally called Olave Upwell, from its being dedicated to the saint of that name, and, probably, fi'om a well under the east end, where, at this time, and for many years past, has stood a pump for the use of the public ; but this name afterwards gave way to that of Jewry, owing to the great number of Jews that took up their residence in this neighbourhood. This parish was a rectory, in the gift of the dean and chapter of St. Paul's, till about the year 1181, when it was transfeiTed by them, with the chapel of St. Stephen, Coleman Street to the prior and convent of Budey, in Suffolk, and became a vicarage. At the suppression of that convent, the impropriation was forfeited to the crown, in whom it has continued to the present time. Wlien the old church was bmTied down, in 16G6, the parish of St. Martin, Ironmonger Lane, was annexed to it ; the patronage of which is also in the crown. The present structure was erected soon after the fire of London, and is built partly of brick, and partly of stone. It is seventy-eight feet long, twenty-four feet broad, thirty-six feet high to the roof, and eighty-eight feet high to the top of the tower and pinnacles. The door is of the Doric order, well proportioned, and covered ^vith an aixhed pediment. Tlie tower is very plain, on the upper jiai't of which rises a cornice, supported by scrolls, and upon this a plain attic com'se. On the pillai's, at the corners, are placed the pinnacles upon balls ; and each pinnacle is tenninated at the top by a ball. The body of the church is well enlightened, the floor is paved \\ith Perbeck, and the \valls are wainscoted. The LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 83 pulpit is enriched with carvings of cherubim ; the floor of tlie altar, on which the com- munion-table stands, is paved with black and white marble, and in the front of the altar are the king's arms. Piccadilly, from Coventry Street. The fine and very interesting street-view here presented, by our artist, fonns one of the peculiar cluuactcristics of the metropolis, and therefore determined him to make it the subject of an engraving. Piccadilly appears to have taken its name originally from a gaming-house for the nobility. Lord Clai-endon, in his History of the Rebellion, describes it as " a place called Pickadilly (which was a fair house for entertainment, and gaming, ^^itli handsome gi-avel walks, w itli shade, and an upper and lower bowling-gieen, whither very many of the nobility, and gentry of the best quality, resorted, both for exercise and conversation.)" This was in the year 1640 : the street was completed in the year 1642, as far- as the present Berkeley Street. The first good house built in it was Burlington House ; the site of which was chosen by its noble foimder, " because he was certain no one woidd build beyond him." It is on the north side of the street, and fenced in with a brick wall, about 220 feet in length, in which are three gates for the admission of carnages. The front of the house is of stone, and is remarkable for the beauty of the design and workmanship. It has tv\'o wings, joined by a circular colonnade, of the Doric order. The front was built by the father of the late Earl of Burlington, and is more modern than the house. The apartments are in fine taste, and the stair-case painted with gTeat spirit, by Seb. Ricci. Middle Row, Holbokn. Second to the Strand, if not equal to it, Holborn may be considered one of the great leading thoroughfares, running from east to west of the metropolis. The pait here exhibited is perhaps the widest and best of the whole line of street, and from its proximity to the princijjal Inns of Court, as well as general thoroughfare, displays an extraordinary scene of activity and traffic. Holborn was fii'st paved in 1417, as appears from an order in the Fa'dera, Vol. IX. j). 447, in which king Henry V., taking notice " that the high-way named Holborn, in London, was so deep and mii-y that many perils and hazards were thereby occasioned, as well to the king's can-iages passing that way, as to those of his subjects ; he therefore ordained two vessels, each of twenty tons burthen, to be employed at his expense, for bringing stones for paving and mending the same." This shows the gi'adual improvement of London's suburbs. 84 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Gray's Inn Hall, Chapel, and Library. Grays Inn occupies the site of the Mansion House of the ancient manor of Portpool, one of the Prebends belonging to St. Paul's Cathedral, which, in the year 1515, becoming the residence of the noble family of Gray, of Wilton, received the name of Gray's Inn, and, in the reign of Edward III., was demised to certain students of the law, by that name. Some time after this, tlie prior and monks of Shene obtained a licence to purchase the manor of Portpool, by whom the Mansion House and gardens were again demised to the students, at an annual rent of £6. ISs. -id. ; and this grant remained in force imtil the general suppression of the monasteries. In the year 1541, this Inn was granted by Henry VIII. to the students, and their successors, in fee farm. The principal entrance to this Inn is in Holborn, though the buildings are situated at some distance from the street. There is another entrance to it in Gray's Inn Lane ; part of the west side of wliich is occupied by the back of the buildings, and the wall that encloses the gardens. The Inn consists of several well-built coui'ts, particularly Holborn Court and Gray's Inn square; the latter of which was built in )687. The hall, which is used for the commons of the society, is lai'ge and commodious ; but the chapel is too small : it is a Gothic structiu-e, and is of much gi-eater antiquity than any other part of the build- ing ; it being the old chapel belonging to the manor-house. Here is an exceedingly good libraiy, well fimushed with books for the use of the students ; but the chief ornament of this Inn is the spacious garden behind it, which consists of gi'avel walks between lofty ti'ees, gi'ass-plats, agi-eeable slopes, and a long tenace, with a portico at each end. It is open to the public in the summer season. Lincoln's Inn Hall, Chapel, and Chancery Court. Liucobi's Inn is situated to the south of Holborn, and on the west side of Chancery Lane ; being the spot where formerly stood the house of the bishop of Chichester, as also that of the Black Friars; the latter erected about the year 1222, and the former about 1226 ; but both of tliem coming to Heniy Lacey, earl of Lincoln, he i^ulled them down, and in their stead erected a stately mansion for his city residence ; into which it is said, that, some time before his death, in 1310, he introduced the study of the law. This mansion afterwards reverted to the bishopric of Chichester, and was devised by Robert Sherbouni, bishop of that see, to Mr. William Syliard, a student there, for a term of years ; at the expiration of which, Dr. Richai-d Sampson, his .successor, in the year 15.36, passed the inheritance thereof to the said Syliai'd, and Eustace, his brother ; the latter of whom, in 1579, in consideration of the sum of ^500, conveyed the house and gardens, in fee, to Richai-d Kingsmill, and the rest of the benchers. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 85 This Inn principally consists of three rows of large and uniform buildings, forming three sides of a square, most of them occupied by gentlemen of the society. The north side of the square lies open to the gardens, which are very spacious, and adorned with gravel walks, grass-plats, rows of trees, and a very long teiTace walk, which is so elevated as to command a fine prospect of Lincoln's Inn Fields. In the centre of the square is a neat fluted Corin- thian column, in a small bason, suiTounded with iron rails. This column supports a handsome sun-dial, which has four sides, and on the corners of the pedestal are four naked boys, intended to spout water out of Triton shells ; but this has been long out of repair. Behind the north-east side of the square are a good hall and chapel ; the latter of whicli was built by Inigo Jones, about the year 1622, on pillars, with an ambulatory, or walk, underneath, paved with broad stones, and used as a place of interment for the benchers. The outside of the chapel is a very indifferent specimen of Gothic architectiu-e, and the windows are painted \vith the figiu-es at full length of the principal personages mentioned in the Scriptiu-es. On the twelve ^vindows, on the north side, are Abraham, Moses, Eli, David, and the prophets Daniel, Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, Amos, and Zachariah, with John the Baptist, and St. Paul ; and on the south side are the rest of the apostles. Under these figures are the arms of a great number of gentlemen belonging to this society. The hall is an extremely fine room, and is used not only for the commons of the society, but for sittings, out of term, before the lord Chancellor. At the upper end of it is Hogarth's picture of St. Paul before Agrippa and Festus. Between the chapel and Chancery Lane are several ranges of chambers, called the Old Buildings. Here is a very good library, which consists of a good collection of books in most languages, and a great number of manuscripts, of a parliamentary, judicial, legal, and public nature, the greatest part of which were bequeathed by lord Hale, with a strict injiuiction that no part of them should be printed. The gate to Lincoln's Inn, irom the west side of Chancery Lane, is of brick, and not un- deserving of notice. It was built by Sir Thomas Lovel, once a member of this inn and afterwards ti'easiu-er of the household to Henry VII. On the east side of the gardens is a new range of buildings, called the Stone Buildings, fi-om having stone ironts. When these were erected, a plan was in agitation for rebuilding the whole inn, in the same style of elegant simplicity ; but this design has been long laid aside. Christ Church, Spitalfields. Spitalfields derives its name from having been built upon the fields and grounds belonging to St. Majy's, Spital, which stood on the east side of Bishopsgate Street. When, by the revocation of the edict of Nantes, Louis XIV. compelled his protestant subjects to fly to foreign lands for shelter and protection, a considerable number of them sought refuge ip this country ; the greater part of whom settled on this spot, and established here the manu- facture of silk in all its branches ; and the neighbourhood is still, in a great measure, peopled by their descendants Z 86 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Spitalficlds was, originally, a hamlet belonging to the parish of St. Dunstan, Stepney ; but, ironi the great increase of inhabitants, it was, in the year 1723, made a distinct parish; and the church is one of the fifty ordered to be built by act of parliament. This building is situated on the south side of Church Street ; it was liegun in 1723, and finished in 1729; and, from being dedicated to oiu- Saviour, is called Christ church, Middlesex. It is a very handsome edifice, built of stone, with a very high steeple, in which is a fine ring of bells. The body of the church is solid and well-proportioned. It is 111 feet in length, and eighty-seven in breadth ; the height of the roof is forty-one feet, and that of the steeple 234 feet. It is ornamented with a Doric portico, to which there is a handsome ascent by a flight of steps; and upon these the Doric order arises, supported on pedestals. The lower, over these, rises with arched windows and niches, and, on its diminishing for the steeple, is supported by the heads of the under comers, which form a kind of buttresses : from this part rises the base of the spire, with an arcade ; its corners are, in the same manner, supported with a kind of pyramidal buttresses, ending in a point ; and the spne, in which are thi-ee series of square windows, crowned wiUi pediments, is terminated by a vase and vane. This chinch is made a rectory, but is not to be held in commendam ; and the patronage, like that of its mother church, is in tlie Principal and Scholars of King's HaU and Brazen- nose College, Oxford. At the west end of the church is a neat brick building, in which are two charity schools ; the one for girls, tlie other for boys, erected in 1782, and supported' by voluntary contributions. Church of St. Dunstan in the East. At the west end of Thames Street, on the north side, is Idol Lane, between which and St. Diuistan's Hill stands tlie beautiful church of St. Dunstan in the East. This church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, archbishop of Canterbury ; and the addition of tlie East is given to distinguish it from St. Dunstan iii Fleet Street. It suffered greatly by the fire of London, in 1666 ; the body of the church was repaired in a short time, though the steeple was not erected till about 1678. It is built in the style called modern Gothic, eighty-seven feet in length, sixty-Uiree in breadth, and thirty-three in height, to the roof: the steeple, which is constructed in the same style as the body of the church, is 125 feet high. The tower is light, supported by out works at the angles, and divided into three stages, terminating at the comers by four handsome pinnacles, in the midst of which rises the spue, on the crowns of four pointed arches ; a bold attempt in architecture, and one proof, among many, of tlie great geometiical skill of Sir Christopher Wren, who planned and built this elegant tower. The patronage of tliis rectory was anciently in the prior and canons of Cantertury, who^ in the year 1365, granted the same to Simon Islip, their archbishop, and his successors, in LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 87 whom it still remains. It is one of the thirteen peculiars in this city, belonging to the archi-episcopal see of Canterbury. COUNHILL AND LOMBARD STREET, FROM THE POULTRY. Another very pictiii'esquo street view is here presented to the eye of the passenger, by a combination of architectural splendour, in the Tower of the Royal Exchange, the beautiful Tower of St. Michael, Cornhill, and numerous church spires in the sun-ounding neighbour- hood; heightened by other buildings, gay shops, and an ever-moving throng of caniages and pedestrians. Cornhill was so called from its being in ancient times a market for corn. The Ward is bounded on the east by Bishopsgate Ward, on the north by Broad Street AVard, on tlie west by Cheap Wai-d, and on the south by Langbourn Ward. Its extent is very small ; for, beginning at the soutli-east corner of the church of St. Martin Outwich, it winds through several courts and alleys, to tlie western extremity of Cornhill, whencev it returns, in as tortuous a direction, to St. Peter's Alley, in Gracechurch Street, and then, turning northward, it extends about fifty feet into Bishopsgate Street, and aftenvards passes, by the east side of Merchant Taylors' Hall, to its commencement at the cluirch. , This Ward is divided into four precincts, and is governed by an alderman, six common council-men, four constables, sixteen inquest men, and a beadle. The principal street in this Ward is very spacious, and consists of large houses, well inhabited. The unifoiTnity of appearance, in most of these buildings, arises from the many fires which have happened on both sides of this street, whereby the old houses were destroyed, and those erected in their stead being all in a more modem style. Lombard Street is so called from having been the residence of the Lombards, the gi'eat money-lenders of ancient times, and who came originally from the Italian republics of Genoa, Lucca, Florence, and Venice. Owing to the abuses committed by this body of men, queen Elizabeth compelled them to quit the country. Lombard Street after haj'iiig been long a kind of exchange, became, as it still continues to be, the residence of bankers of eminence. Church op St. James Clerkenwell. The parish church of St. James Clerkenwell is situated on the nortli side of Clerkenwell- green. On the spot where this church stands, was anciently a priory, foimded by Jordan Briset, a wealthy baron, who, about the year 1100, gave to his chaplain fourteen acres ol land, in a field adjoining Clerk's or Clerkenwell, whereon he built a monastery ; wliich was no sooner erected, and dedicated to the honotir of God and the assumption of the Virgin Mar}', than he placed therein a certain number of black nuns, of the order of St. Benedict, in \vliom, and their successors, it continued till it was suppressed by Henry VIII. , in the year 1.5-39. gg LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Some lime after the dissolution of the convent, the ground came to the inheritance of Sir William Cavendish, who, being created duke of Newcastle, built a large brick mansion, on the north-west side of the church, which for many yeai-s was called Newcastle House, the site of which is now occupied by modern buildings. The church belonging to the old priory not only served llic nuns as a place of worship, but also the neighbouring inhabitants, and was made parochial on the dissolution of the nunnery, when it appears to have been dedicated to St. James the Less; for in the old records it is styled " Ecclesia Beattc Maria; de fonte Clericorum." In 1623, the steeple of the church being greatly decayed, a part of it fell down, whereupon the parish contracted witli a person to rebuild it. This person raised the new work upon the old foundation ; but, before it was entirely finished, it fell down, and destroyed a part of the church, both of which were, however, soon after rebuilt. The old church was a very heavy structure, partly Gothic, which was the onEfinal form, and pai-tly Tuscan. It was taken down in the year 1788, and the old materials sold for £825 ; after which the present edifice was, in pursuance of an act of parliament obtained for that purpose, erected in its stead. It is a lofty brick edifice, strengthened at the comers with rustic quoins of stone, and enlightened by two series of windows. The tower is of stone, and erected upon the west end of the church, which is faced ^vith stone, in order to give it a corresponding appearance. The first two stages above the roof are square, and contain the bells. Above these are two open octangidar towers, with pilasters of the Doric order at each comer, and from the uppermost rises a ball and vane. Church of St. Margaret Pattens, Rood Laxe. At the south-east angle of Rood Lane stands the parocliial cluuch of St. Margaret Pattens. This church received its name from its dedication to St. Margaret, virgin and martjT ; and its situation, which, at the time of its foundation, was a lane, occupied ouly by makers and dealers in pattens. This lane, however, was afterwards called Rood Lane, on account of a rood, or cross, set up in the church-yard of St. Margaret, when the church was pulled down to be rebuilt. This cross or rood was blessed in a particular maimer, and pri- vileged by the pope with many indulgencies, for the pardon of the sins of those who came to pray before it, and to make their offerings towards the rebuilding of St. Margaret's church. But the church being finished in the year 1538, soon after the Reformation, some people unknown assembled, without noise, in the night of the 22nd of May, in that year, who broke the rood to pieces, and demolished the tabernacle in which it was erected. The old church was destroyed in 166G, after which the present one was immediately erected, and the parish of St Gabriel Fenchurch was united to it. It is built part of stone, and part of brick, and consists of a plain body, sixty-six feet in length, fifty-two feet broad, and tliirty-two feet in height. The windows are arched, with port-hole windows over them. Abo^ e the front door is a large Doric window, with a cherub's head, and a large festoon over it ; and, above these is a pediment, which stretches from the steeple to the end of the church. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 89 The tower rises squai'e to a considerable height, and is terminated by four plain pinnacles crowned with balls, and a balustrade, within which rises a very solid spire, terminated by a ball and vane. The original foundation of this church was in or before the year 1325; for the first rector upon record is Hamo de Chyrch, presented by lady Margai'et Nevil, on the 14th of June, in that year. And the patronage thereof remained in the family of the Nevils till the yeai' 1.392, when it came to Robert Rikcden, of Essex, and Margaret, liis wife ; who, in 1408, conveyed it, by agreement, to Richard Wliittington and other citizens of London, to- gether \vith the advowson of St. Peter, Cornhill, and the manor of Leadenhall, &c., which agreement the said Wliittington and others confii'med in 1411, to the mayor and commonalty of London ; in whom the right of presentation has ever since remained. Church of St. Giles, Cripplegate. This church is so called from being dedicated to a saint of that name, born at Athens, who was abbot of Nismes, in France. It was founded about the year 1090, by Aliune, the first master of St. Bartholomew's Hospital. The old chiurch was destroyed by fii-e, in the year 1545 ; after wliich the present stiuctm-e was erected, and is one of the few that fortunately escaped the dreadful conflagration in 1666. Tliis ancient edifice may very properly be numbered amongst the best of om- Gothic buildings. It is 114 feet in length, 63 feet in breadth, 32 feet high, to the roof, and 122 feet to the top of the tun'et. The body of the church is well enlightened by two rows oi' windows, which are truly of the Gothic order, and the spaces between have buttresses for the support of the wall. The tower is well-proportioned, the corners of it are supported by a kind of buttress-work, and at each corner is a small tun-et. The principal turret, in the centre, is light and open ; it is sti-engthened by butti-esses, and crooned with a dome, from whence rises the vane. The patronage of tliis church was originally in private hands, till it descended to one Alemund, a priest, who granted the same (after his death, and that of Hugh, liis only son) to the dean and chapter of St. Paul's, whereby they became not only ordiuaiies of the parish, but likewise pati'ons of the vicarage, from that time to the present. Barber-Surgeon's Hall, Monkwell Street. This building was designed by that great architect Inigo Jones, and, though of a simple construction, is exceedingly elegant, and considered as one of his master-pieces. The gi-and entrance fi-om Monkwell-street is enriched with the company's arms, large fi-uit and other decorations. The coiu-t-room has a fi-et-work ceiling, and is adorned with several beautiful paintings, particularly a very handsome piece, by Hans Holbein, of King Henrj^ VIII. uniting the barbers and surgeons into one company, which contains portraits of eighteen of the most eminent members of the company at that time. The theati'e belonging to the hall, Z A 90 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. at the time these companies were united, contained some chirurgical curiosities ; but, since the barbers and surgeons liave been made separate bodies, tlie latter have taken those curiosities away, and the tlieatre has ever since been shut up and deserted. Fishmongers' hall, Thames Street. At a small distance from the bridge, on the west side of this w^ard, fronting the Thames, stood Fishmongers' Hall, a very handsome building, erected since the destruction of the old hall, by the great fire, and commanding a fine view of the river and the bridge ; but which has recently been taken down, in consequence of building the new bridge. The front entrance to this hall was from Thames Street, by a passage leading into a large square court, paved with flat stones, and encompassed by the gi-eat hall, the court-room for the assistants, and other grand apartments with galleries. These were of a handsome con- struction, and supported by Ionic columns, with an arcade. Tlie back front, or that next the Thames, had a grand double flight of stone steps, leading to the first apartments from the wharf. The door was adonicd with Ionic columns, supporting an open pediment, in which was a shield, with the ai'nis of the company. The windows were ornamented with stone cases, and the quoins of the building v^Tought udth a handsome rustic. In the great hall was a wooden statue of Sir William Walworth, armed -with his dagger ; and also another of St. Peter : the fonncr belonged to this company, and the latter is, with great propriety, adopted as its patron saint. In the court -room were several pictures of the various species of sea and river fishes : and the arms of the benefactors to the company were emblazoned in painted glass in the difierent windows. CORDTV'AINERS' HaLL, DiSTAFF LaXE. On the north side of Distaff" Lane is Cordwainers' Hall ; a handsome convenient building, consisting of several rooms, the principal of which contains portraits of King William and Queen Mary. A new stone front has been added to this building ; over tlie centre window of which is a medallion, representing a country girl, spinning with a distaff', in allusion to the name of the lane ; and at the top is a carving of the company's amis. Gerai-d's-hall-lnn, on the south side of Basing Lane, is built upon the remains of a mansion-house, formerly belonging to the ancient family of Gysors, some of whom served the principal offices in the magisti-acy. Church of St. Edmund, the King, Lombard Street. This church received its name from being dedicated to Edmund, the Saxon King, who was murdered by the Danes, in the year 870 ; and though the origin of its Ibundation cannot be ascertained with any degree of certainty, yet, from several circumstances, it is reasonable t/D suppose, that it was originally built during the time of the Saxon heptarchy. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. yj The old churcli was destroyed by the fire of London, after which the present structure was erected on its ruins. The situation of this building differs from most other churches in London ; for, instead of east and west, it stands full nortli and south ; by which the altar is placed at the nortli end of tlie church. It is sixty-nine feet long, thirty-iune feet broad, and thiily-two feet high to the roof, which is flat. At the south end is a square tower, fiom which projects a dial over the street ; and upon the tower is a short spire, A\ith its base fixed on a broad lantern. This church is a rectory, the patronage of which is now in the Archbishop of Canterbury'. In the year 1175, there was a dispute between the Dean and Chapter of St. Pauls, and the prior and canons of the Trinity convent, within Aldgatc, concerning the patronage ; which was determined by Gilbert, Bisho]) of London, in favour of the latter. Church of St. Antholin, Watmng Stkeet. At the south-west corner of Sise-lane, on the north side, and near the west end of Watling- street, stands the parish church of St. Anthony, conunonly called St. Antholin, or St. Antlin. Tliis churcli is so called fi'om its dedication to St. Anthony, an Egyptian hermit, and founder of the order of Eremites of St Anthony. The time of its foundation is not certainly known ; but that it is of great antiquity appears from its being in the gift of the canons of St. Paul in the yeai' 1181. It was rebuilt by Thomas KnoUes, Lord Major of London, in the year 1.399: and again, in 1513, by John Tate, mercer. In Idlti it was repaired and beautified at the expense of one thousand pounds, raised by the contribution of several mu- nificent inhabitants ; but, being destroyed by the fire of London, it was rebuilt in the year 1682, in the same manner it now appears. It is built of stone, of the Tuscan order; and is sixty-six feet in length, fifty-four in breadth, forty-four in height, and the altitude of the steeple is one hundred and fifty-four feet. Tlie roof is a cupola of an elliptic form, enlightened by four port-hole windows, and supported bj"^ columns of the Composite order. The steeple consists of a tower, and a very neat octanTular spire, ornamented with apertures in three stages. The \vindows at the base of the spire ha\e regular cases, and are crowned with pediments supporting urns. Those of the middle stage have shields, with more free ornaments, which also support their vases ; and the crown of the spire with tlie decorations under the vane are exceedingly' handsome. Church of St. Martin Outwich, Bishopsgate-street. Opposite the South Sea House, and partly in Bishopsgate-street, stands the Parish church of St. Martin Outwich. This church, which is dedicated to St. Martin, bishop of Tours, in France, about the year 376, is of great antiquity. It derives its additional name of Outwicli from the family of Oteswich. Stow names four of them, who were buried here, viz. JMartin, Nicholas, William, and John, who were proprietors of it. In the year 1325, John de 92 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. WaiTen, earl of Sun-ey, presented to this living ; but he dying without issue, and leaving his estates to the crown, the advowson was purchased, in 1387, by the above family, who, in the sixth year of the reign of Henry II., gave it, with four messuages, seventeen sliops, and tlie appurtenances, in the said parish, to the master and wai'dens of the Tailors and Linen annourers, and to their successors, to be employed for the perpetual help and relief of the poor brethren and sisters of the said company : by virtue of which gi'ant, the company of Merchant-Tailors have ever since enjoyed the right of patronage to this church. The old church, wliich was built in l.'jiO, was one of the few that escaped the fire of London ; but the ravages of time, assisted by the injiuies it sustained from a fire in Bishopsgate-street, in 1765, had affected it so much, tliat it was taken down, in 1795, and the present stracture, the first stone of which was laid on the 4th of May, 1796, has been erected in its stead ; which afforded an opportunity of enlarging the entrance into Thread- needle-street, by taking off the angle, which before projected into that street. It is a plain neat building of brick, except the east end, which is of stone ; above which rises a low circular tower, sunnounted by a dome. It is a rectory. Inn-holders' Hall, Great Elbow Lane. On the north side of Thames Street, a little east fi-om Joiners' HaU Buildings, is Great Elbow Lane, in which is a very handsome and convenient hall, belonging to the company of Inn-holders. This company was incorporated by king Hemy VIII., on the 21st of December, 1515, by the name of "The master, wardens, and company, of the art or mystery of Inn-holders of the city of London." It is a livery company, the thirty-second on the citv list, and is governed by a master, tliree wardens, and twenty assistants. The fine on admission is £10. GiRDLERs' Hall, Basinghall-Street. On the east side of Basinghall-street is Girdlers'-hall, a handsome and convenient build- ing, finished in 1681, well wainscoted within, and with a skreen of the Composite order. This company was incorporated in the twenty-seventh of Henry VI., on the sixth of August, 1449 ; and re-incorporated, with the pinners and wire- drawers, by queen Elizabeth, on the lath of October, 1568, by the name of "The master and wardens, or keepers, of the art or mystery of the Girdlers of London." It is a livery company, governed by a master, three wardens, and twenty-four assistants ; and the fine on admission is £'10. Dyers' Hall, Little Elbow Lane. At a small distance from Inn-holders' Hall, in LitOe Elbow Lane, is a neat building, used as a hall by the Dyers' company. Their liall, wliich was formerly situated near Old Swan-lane, in Thames-street, being destroyed by the conflagration in 1666, and a number of warehouses erected in its place, the company have converted this house into a hall to LONDON IN THK NINETEENTH CENTURY. 93 transact their affairs in. This company was incorporated by king Edward IV., in the year 1472, by the name of "The wardens and commonalty oCthe mystery of Dyers of London." Their charier is that of keeping swans on the River Thames. This was originally one of the twehe principal companies, but it is now numbered as the thirteenth. It is governed by two wai'dens, and thirty assistants, and the livery fine is a£l5. Church of Allhallows, Bread Street. This church received its name from being dedicated to all the saints, and its situation. It is a rectory of very ancient foundation, the pafa-onage of which was originally in tlie prior and canons of Christ-church in Canterbury, who remained patrons of it till the year 1365, when it was conveyed to the archbishop of Canterbury and his successors, in whom it still continues, and is one of the peculiars belonging to that see in the city of London. The old church being destroyed by the fire of London, in 1666, tlie present edifice was erected in 1684, at the expense of the public; and serves not only for the accommodation of the inhabitants of its own parish, but likev^•ise for those of St. .John the Evangelist, ^^■hich is annexed to it by act of parliament. This church consists of a plain body, of the Tuscan order, seventy-two feet in length, thirty-five in breadth, and thirty in height to the roof; with a square tower eighty-six feet high, divided into four stages, v^ith ai-ches near the top. The inside is handsomely wainscoted and pewed, the pulpit finely cai'ved, the sounding board veneered, a neat galleiy at the west end, and a spacious altar-piece well adorned and beautified. Church of St. .James's, Garlick Hill. " At the south-east corner of Garlick-hill stands the parochial chmx-h of St. James. This church is so called fiom its dedication to the above saint, and its vicinity to a garlick market, which was anciently held in the neighbourhood, and called Gailick Hythe, fi-om being a wharf on the bank of the river. It is a rectory, the patronage of which appears to have been in the abbot and convent of Westminster, till the suppression of theii- monasteiy ; when coming to the crown. Queen Marj-, in the year 1553, gi-anted the same to the bishop of London and his successors, in whom it still remains. The earliest mention of this church is, that it was rebuilt by Richai-d de Rothing, sheriff', in 1326. The old chiu-ch being desti-oyed by the fire of London, the present edifice was begun ten years after, and thoroughly completed in 1682. It is built of stone, seventy-fi\e feet long, forty-five feet broad, and forty feet high to the roof: the altitude of the steeple is ninety- eight feet. The tower is divided into three stages, in the lowest of which is a very elegant door with coupled columns of the Corintluan order. In the second is a large window, over which is another, of a cu'cular form, not opened. In the third story is a ^\indow larger than the former ; and the cornice above this supports a range of open work in the place of battle- ments, on a balustrade. Above this is the turret, which is composed of four stages, and 2 B 94 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. decorated witli columns, scrolls, and ornaments. From the body of the cliurcli projects a very handsome dial, on the top of which is a statue of St. James, to whom the church is dedicated. Church of St. Mary, Aldermanbury. On the west side of the street, between Love-lane and Addle-street, stands the parish church of St. Mary, Aldermanbury, which is of ancient foundation ; as is evident from a sepulchral inscription, in the old church, bearing the date of 11 16. The patronage was formerly in the dean and chapter of St. Pauls, who, in the year 13-31, with the consent of Stephen, bishop of London, appropriated it to the adjoining hospital of Elsing Spital ; but with a proviso, that the dean and chapter should have the patronage of both, and that, upon the appointment of a custos to this church and hospital, lie was to swear fealty to the dean and chapter, and to pay them an ancient pension of a mark a year, due firom this church, and six shillings and eightpence yearly, for the hospital, as granted by the founder, William de Elsing, in testimony of its subjection to the church of St. Paul. It was also agreed that tJie custos should find a priest to sen-e the cure, who was to be approved by the dean and chapter. Hence it appears that this church was, at that time, a curacy, as it still continues : but, after the dissolution of the hospital, the patronage was granted to the parishioners, who have ever since presented to it. The old church being destroyed, by the dreadful fire in 1666, the present structure was finished ten years after. It is built of stone, and very plain ; the body is well enlightened, and the corners are wrought with rustic. It is seventy-two feet long and forty-five broad ; the roof is thirty-eight feet high, and the steeple about ninety feet. It has a plain solid tower, constructed in the same manner as the body, and the angles in the upper stage strengthened with rustic ; the cornice is supported by scrolls, and abo^e it is a plain Attic course. In this rises a turret, with a square base that supports the dial. This tuiTet is arched, but the corners are massy, and its roof is terminated in a point, on which is placed the vane. Waterman's Hall, St. Mary's Hill. Waterman's Hall, which formerly stood in Cold Harbour, was removed into this ward in the year- 1786. Its present situation is on the west side of St. Mary's Hill. It is a neat building, partly of stone, and pai'tly of brick. The principal entrance, which is at the south end, is through a rustic basement story, above which rise four pilasters of the Ionic order, supporting a plain triangular pediment. Above the door are the anus of the company. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 95 Painter-stainer's Hall, Little Trinity Lane. On the west side of Little Trinity Lane is Painter-stainer's Hall. This liall is adorned with a liandsorae screen, arches, pillars, and pilasters of the Corinthian order, painted in imitation of porjihyry, with gilt capitals. The panels are of wainscot, and the ceilinf^'s are embellislied with a great variety of historical and other paintings, exquisitely performed ; amongst which are the portraits of king Charles II. and his queen Catharine, by ]VIr. Houseman ; a portrait of Camden ; a view of London on fire in 1666 ; and a fine piece of sliipping by Moniimea. In the court room are some fine pictures, most of which are portraits of the members of the company; and in the front of the room is a fine bust of Mr. Thomas Evans, who left five houses in Basinghall Street to the company. Camden, the Antiquarian, gave the Painter-stainer's Company a silver cup and cover, which they use everj' St. Luke's day at their election ; the old master drinking to his suc- cessor out of it. On the cup is the following inscription : — GuL. Camuenos Cl.\RE\- CEUX FILIUS SaMPSONIS PICTORIS LoNDlNENSIS DONO DEDIT. Winchester House, Winchester Street. The remains of this building stand in the south-\vest corner of Winchester Street, near- Broad Street, having been originally erected by the old mai-quis of Winchester, in the reign of Edvvaid VL The upper part of this fabric is more modern than the lower, but yet appears in a decajed state. Tlie old walls still retain their mullioned windows suiTOunded \\ith quoins ; and strong bars of iron are inserted in the bricks, which prevent the several parts ai' the building from separating. This mansion has for a considerable time been in the occupation of several packers. Church of St. James, Westminster. On the south side of Piccadilly is the parish church of St. James, Westminster. This is also one of the churches that owes its rise to the increase of buildings ; for the church of St. Martin in the fields being too small for the inhabitants, and too remote from tliose in this quarter, Henry Jermyn, earl of St. Alban's, with other persons of distinction in that neighbourhood, erected this edifice at an expense of about £7000. It was built in the reign of king Charles II., and, though a lai-ge fabric, was considered as a chapel of ease to St. Martin's. It was consecrated in 1C84, and dedicated to St. James, in compliment to the name of the duke of York, and the next year, when that prince had ascended the throne, the district for which it was built was by act of parliament separated from St. Martin's, and made a distinct parish. Tlie walls are brick, supported by rustic quoins of stone ; and the 96 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. windows, which are lai'ge, are also cased with stone. The tower at the west end rises re- gulai'ly from the giound to a considerable height, and is crowned with a neat well-constructed spire. In this church is a most beautiful baptismal font, of white marble, by Grinlyn Gibbons. It is supported by a column, representing the tree of the knowledge of good and evil, on which is the serpent offering the fruit to our first parents, who are standing beneath. On the font ai'e three pieces of sculpture : St. .John baptizing Christ; Pliilip bajitizing the Eunuch ; and Noah's Ark, with the dove bearing the olive-branch. Over the altar is some exquisite car\'ing in wood, by the same artist, representing a pelican feeding its young, between two doves: there is also a very elegant festoon, witli large fruit, flowers, and foliage. This parish is a rectory in the gift of the bishop of London. Church of St. Peter-le-pook, Broad Street. On the west side of Broad Street, nearly opposite to the back entrance of the South Sea House, is situated the parish cliurch of St. Peter-le-poor. This chm'ch is of very ancient foundation, as appears from a register of it so far back as the year 1181. It was dedicated to St. Peter the Apostle, and is distinguished from other churches of that name by the ad- ditional epithet of Lc Poor, wliich Stow conjectures was given to it from the ancient state of the palish, though, in his time, there were many fair houses in it, possessed by rich mer- chants and others. The old church projected a considerable distance beyond the line of the houses, and was a gi'eat obstruction to the passage of the street, in consequence of uiiich, an act of paiiiament was passed, in 1788, for taking it down and rebuilding it, further back, taking in the site of a court behind. This desirable object was completed in 1791, at an expense of upwards of £4000, of wluch the city of London subscribed 400 : the remainder was raised by annuities in the parish. The west end of this new church is elegantly simple : the door is in the centre, between double Ionic columns ; the ends of the fi-ont are adorned with pilasters of the same order, between which and the colimms is a blank window on each side. Above the door is a moulded pediment, witli a plain tympanum, over which rises a square tower, in two stories ; the first plain, for the clock and bells, the second ornamented with double Corinthian pilasters at the corners, on each of wliich stands a handsome vase. The whole is surmounted with an elegant bell-shaped dome, terminated by a weathercock. It is a rectory, the advowson of which appears to have been always in the dean and chapter of St. Paul's. Northumberland House, Strand. At the south-west corner of the Strand, opposite to the end of St. Maitin's Lane, stands Northumberland House, which was erected on the site of the hospital of St. Mary Rounceval, a cell to the priory of the same name, in Navarre, founded and endowed by the earl of LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 97 Pembroke, in the reign of Henry III. This hospital was suppressed, witli other alien priories, by Henry V.; but was re-founded, in 147(!, by Edward IV. After the general sup- pression of religious houses by Henry VIII., Edward VI., in the year 1549, granted the chapel, with its appurtenances, to Sir Thomas Cavvarden. After this it came into tlie 2>os- session of Henry Howard, earl of Northampton, who, in the reign of James I., erected three sides of the quadrangle. After the death of tliis nobleman, it became tlie property of his re- lation, the earl of Suffolk, and was then known by tlie name of Snfiblk House. In the reign of Charles I. Algernon, eail of Nortlmmberland, lord high admii-al of England, married the daughter of the eaii of Suffolk, and, about the year 1642, became proprietor of this house ; from which time it has borne its present name. This earl, finding it inconvenient to reside in the apartments built by lord Northampton, on account of their nearness to the street, completed the quadrangle by building the fourth, or south side, which is at such a distance irom the street as to avoid the noise of the carriages, &c., and enjoys aU the advantages of retirement. This part was built under tlie direction of Inigo Jones, as the other three sides liad been under that of Bernard Janssen. It was in a conference held in one of these apartments, between the earl of Northumberland, general Monk, and some of the leading men of the nation, that the restoration of Chailes II. was proposed, as a measure absolutely necessaiy to the peace of the kingdom. The front next the street was begini to be rebuilt by Algernon, duke of Somerset, who became possessed of it in 1748, in right of his mother, the daughter and heiress of the earl of Northumberland ; and from him it descended to his son-in-law, and daugliter, the late duke and duchess of Northumberland, by whom the new fi'ont was completed, and such im- provements made as have rendered this building an object of admiration for its elegance and grandeur. The fiont of this building, next the street, is exceedingly magnificent. In the centre of it is a gi'and arched gate, the piers of which are continued up to the top of the building, with niches on each side from the ground, decorated with carvings, in a sort of Gothic style. They are connected at the top, by uniting to fonn an arch in the centre, opening from the top of the house to a circular balcony, standing on a small bow window over tlie gate beneath. Over the arch, on a pedestal, is a carved lion, the crest of the duke of Northum- berland's anns. The building, on eacli side the centre, is of brick, containing two series of regular windows, five on each side, over a like series of niches on the ground storj'. At each extremity is a tower, with rustic stone comers, containing one window each in fi-ont corresponding with the building. These towers rise above the rest of the fi'ont, first with an arched window, above that a port-hole window, and the top terminated with a dome, crowned with a vane. The centre is connected with the tmrets over the building, by a breast-work of solid piers, and open lattice-work, alternately, con-esponding «ith the windows beneath, which have stone-work under them, canned in like manner. The four sides of tlie inner court ai-e faced with Portland stone, and the two ^vings, which extend fi:om the garden fi'ont towards the river, are above 100 feet in length. The principal door of tlie house opens to a vestibule, about eighty -t\vo feet long, and upwards of twelve 2C 98 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. feet wide, properly ornamented with columns of the Doric order. Each end of it communi- cates with a stair-case leading to tlie principal apartments, which face the gai'den. They consist of several spacious rooms, fitted up in the most elegant manner. The ceilings are embellished with copies of antique paintings, or fine ornaments of stucco, richly gilt. The chimney-pieces are of curious marble, carved and finished in the most correct taste. The rooms ai'e hung either with beautiful tapestry, or the richest damasks, and magnificently fur- nished with large glasses, settees, marble tables, &c., with frames of exquisite workmanship, richly gilt. They also contam a great variety of pictures, executed by the most distinguished masters, particularly Raphael, Titian, Paul Veronese, Salvator Rosa, Rubens, Vandyke, &c. Among these is the Cornaro family, painted by Titian, which was sold to Algernon, earl of Northumberland, in the reign of Charles I., by Vandyke, for 1000 guineas. In some of the rooms are large chests, embellished with old genuine Japan, which, being great rarities, are esteemed invaluable. The gallery or ball-room, in the east wing, is decorated in a very elegant manner. It is 106 feet long, and 27 feet wide. The ceiling is can-ed and ornamented with figures and festoons, richly gilt. The fiat part of the ceiling is divided into five compartments, orna- mented with fine imitations of some antique figures ; pailicularly a flying Fame blowing a trumpet ; a Diana ; a triumphal car drawn by two horses ; a Flora ; and a Victory holding out a WTeath of lam'cl. The entablature is Corinthian, and of most exquisite workmanship. The whole building, both in the interior and exterior, has within these few years imdergone a complete repair, at an immense expense. Serjeant's Inn, Chancery Lane, Is the only remaining inn of court for the judges and seijeauts of the law, and contains chambers wholly for the accommodation of these gentlemen ; whereas, in that in Fleet Street, each one possessed a distinct house. The degi'ee of a seijeant being the highest in the law, except that of a judge, it is conferred by the sovereign on those of the profession most emi- nently distinguished for their abilities and probity ; and this order is held so honorable, that none are admitted to the dignity of a judge but the members of it. According to the opinion of some of our ablest lawyers, among whom may be named Su- Edward Coke, this degree is of very ancient standing, and it is expressly mentioned in a statute of the third of Edward I., cap. xxix. The Rolls-chapel is the place for keeping the roUs or records in chancery. This house was founded by king Henry III. in the place where stood a Jew's house, for- feited to that prince in the year 1233. In tliis chapel all such Jews and infidels as were converted to the Christian faith were ordained, and in the buildings belonging to it were ap- pointed a sufiicient maintenance ; by which means a great number of converts were baptized, instructed in the doctrines of cluistianity, and lived under a learned christian appointed to govern them ; but, in the year 1290, all the Jews being banished, tlie number of converts LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 99 decreased, and, in the year 1377, the house, with its chapel, was annexed by patent to the keeper of the rolls of chancery. The chapel, which is of brick, pebbles, and some fi-ee-stone, is sixty feet long, and thirty- three feet in breadth ; the doors and windows ar'c Gothic, and the roof covered with slate. In this chapel the rolls are kept in presses fixed to the sides, and ornamented with columns and pilasters of the Ionic and Composite orders. These rolls contain all the records, as charters, patents, &c., since the begiiming of the reign of liichard III., those before that time being deposited in the record-office in the Tower ; and these being made up in rolls of parchment, gave occasion to the name. Staples' Inx, Holbokn. Within the bars, on the south side of Holborn, is Staples' Inn, which is an inn of chancery, and a member of Gray's Iim, and consists of two large comls, surrounded \vith good buildings. This inn is said to have been anciently a hall for the accommodation of wool-staplers, whence it deii\'ed its appellation. It was, however, an inn of chancery in the year 1415, though how long before is unknown. In the year- 1529, the benchers of Gray's Inn pur- chased this place of .Tohn Knigliton, and Alice his wife, by the name of "All that messuage, or Inn of Chancery, commonly called Staple Inn ; " since wluch time it has continued to be an appendage to Gray's Iim. The Monument, Fish Street Hill. This noble piece of architecture was erected by an act of parliament to commemorate the great and dreadful conflagration of the city in 1666. It was begim bv Sir Christopher Wren in 1671, and iinishcd by him in 1677, at an expense of .£14,500. It is a round fluted pillar of the Doric order, built of Portland stone, 202 feet in height from the ground, the exact distance of the spot where the fire began. The diameter of the shaft or body of the column is fifteen feet ; the gi'ound plinth or lowest part of the pedestal is forty feet in height. Over the capitol is an ii-on balcony, encompassing a cone thirty- two feet high, supporting a blazing urn of gilt brass. In the place of this urn, which was set up contrary to Sir Christopher's opinion, was originally intended a colossal statue, in gilt brass, either of king Charles 11. , as founder of the new city, after the manner of the Roman pillars, wbicli were terminated with the statues of their Caesars ; or else an erect figm-e of a woman, crowned with tuiTets, holding a sword and cap of maintenance, with other ensigns of the city's grandeur and re-edification. Within is a large stau-case of black marble, containing 345 steps, each ten inches and a half broad, and six inches thick. The west side of the pedestal is adorned \\ith curious emblems, by the masterly hand of Mr. Cibber, father of the poet-laureat, denoting the de- struction and restoration of the city, in which the eleven principal figures axe done in alto, 100 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. and the rest in basso relievo. The first female figure represents the city of London, sitting among the ruins, in a languishing posture, with her head dejected, hair dishevelled, and her hand carelessly Ijing on her sword. Behind is Time, gi-adually raising her up : at her side a woman, representing Providence, gently touching her with one hand, and with a winged sceptre in the other, dii'ecting her to regard the goddesses in the clouds, one with a cornu- copia, denoting plenty, the other A\'ith a palm branch, the emblem of peace. At her feet a bee-hive, showing that by industry and application the greatest misfortunes are to be over- come. Behind Time are citizens exulting at his endeavours to restore her ; and beneath, in the midst of the ruins, is a dragon, who, as supporter of the city arms, with his paw en- deavom-s to preserve the same. Still fartlier at the north end is a \iew of the city in flames ; the inhabitants in consternation, with their arms extended upwards, as crying out for succour. Opposite the city, on an elevated pavement, stands the king, in a Roman habit, with a laurel on his head, and a truncheon in his hand ; and, approaching her, commands three of his attendants to descend to her relief; the first represents the sciences, with a winged head and circle of naked boys dancing thereon, holding Nature by the hand, with her numerous breasts, ready to give assistance to all ; the second is aixhitecture, with a plan in one hand, and a square and pair of compasses in the other : and the tliird is Liberty, waving a hat in the air, showing her joy at the pleasing prospect of the city's speedy re- covery. Behind the king stands his brother, the duke of York, with a garland in one hand to crown the rising city, and a sword in the other for her defence. The two figures behind ai'e Justice and Fortitude ; the former with a coronet, and the latter with a reined lion ; and under the royal pavement, in a vault, lieth Envy, gnawing a heart, and incessantly emitting pestiferous fumes from her envenomed mouth. In the upper part of the plinth the re- construction of the city is represented by builders and labourers at work upon houses. On the other three fag^des of the plinth are Latin inscriptions ; that on the north side is thus rendered : — " In the year of Chiist, 1666, September 2, eastward fi-om hence, at the distance of 202 feet (the height of this column), a terrible fire broke out about midnight ; which, driven on by a high wind, not only wasted the adjacent parts, but also very remote places, mth incredible noise and fmy. It consumed eighty -nine churches, the city gates, Guildhall, many public structures, hospitals, schools, libraries, a vast number of stately edifices, 13,000 dwelling houses, and 400 streets. Of the twenty-six wai'ds it utterly de- stroyed fifteen, and left eight others shattered and half burnt. The ruins of the city were 436 acres, from the tower by the Thames side to the Temple chm'ch ; and fi'om the north- east along the wall to Holborn-bridge. To the estates and fortunes of the citizens it was merciless, but to their lives very favorable, that it might in all things resemble the last con- flagration of the world. The destruction was sudden ; for, in a small space of time, the city was seen most flourishing, and reduced to nothing. Three days after, when, in the opinion of all, this fatal fire had baffled all human coimsels and endeavours, it stopped, as it were by a command fi-om heaven, and was on every side extinguished." The inscription on the south side is translated thus : — " Charles the Second, son of Charles the Maityr, king of Great Britain, France, and LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 101 Irelaiul, ck'foiuler of tlio HiiUi, a most j^racious prince, commisL'rating tlic deplorable state of things, whilst the rains were yet smoking, provided for the comfort of his citizens, and orna- ment of his city, remitted then- taxes, and referred the petition of the magistrates and inha- bitants to parliament ; who immediately passed an act, that public works should be restored to greater beauty with public money, to be raised by an impost on coals : that churches, and the cathedi-al of St. Paul's, should be rebuilt from their foundations \\ith all magnificence ; that the bridges, gates, and prisons should be new made, and sewers cleansed ; the streets made straight and regidar ; such as were steep levelled, and those too naiTow to be made wider ; and that the markets and shambles should be removed to separate places. Tliey also enacted that every house should be built with party-walls, and all in front raised of equal height, and those walls all of squared stone or biick ; and that no man should dela\- building beyond the space of se\en years. Moreover, care was taken, by law, to pre\ ent all suits about their bounds. Also, anniversary prayers were enjoined ; and, to perpetuate the memory hereof to posterity, they caused this column to be erected. The work was carried on with diligence, and London is restored, but whether with greater speed or beauty may be made a question. At three years' time, the world saw that finished which was supposed to be the business of an age." The inscription on the east side is in English, thus : " This pillar was begun, Sir Richard Ford, kniglit, being lord mayor of London, in the year 167L Carried on in the mayoralties of Sir George Waterman, knt.. Sir Eobert Hanson, knt.. Sir William Hooker, knt.. Sir Robert Viner, knt., Sir Joseph Sheldon, knt., lord mayors. And finished, Sk Thomas Davies being lord mayor, in the year 1677." The prevailing opinion of the citizens of London, and of the generality of protestants of all denominations, after this terrible devastation, was, that it had been occasioned by the contrivances of the papists ; for which reason, the following inscription was engi-aved round the pedestal. " This pillar was set up in perpetual remembrance of the most dreadful burning of this protestant city, begun and canied on by the treachery and malice of the popish laction, in the beginning of September, in the year of our Lord, 1666, in order to the carrying on their horrid plot for extirpating the protestant religion, and old English liberty, and introducing popery aud slavery." This inscription was expunged in the time of James XL, but was restored in the next reign ; and, by a recent resolution of the court of conunon-council, it is again ordered to be expunged. The cornice of the pedestal is adorned with the king's arms, the sword, mace, cap of maintenance, &c., emiched with trophies ; and at each angle are winged ckagons, tlie sup- porters of the city arms. This monument is, undoubtedly, the noblest modern column in the workX ; and, iu some respects, may vie with the most celebrated of antiquity. . In height it gi'eatly exceeds the pillars of the emperors Trajan and Antoniiuis, the stately rcnains of Roman grandeur, as well as that of Theodosius, at Constantinople. 2 3> 1^2 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Church or St. Austin, Watling Street. At tlie coiner of the Old Change, and Watling Street, stands the parish church of St. Austin, called in old records Ecclesia Snucti Atnjusluii ad portum, because it stood near the gate leading out of Watling Street into St. Paul's church-yard. It is a rectory, the patronage of which appears to have been always in the dean and chapter of St. Paul's ; for it is mentioned in their books, in the year 1181, when P>,alph de Diceto was dean. The present edifice is erected on the site of the old church, which was destroyed by the fire of London. It is a substantial structure, built with stone, and well pewed and wainscoted within : the pulpit is finely embellished, and the altar-piece is spacious and beautiiiil, with a very liandsonie pediment in the front, supported by pillars, in imitation ol' porphyry, and on the top of the pediment ai-e the king's arms. Tlie length of this church is fifty-one feet, the breadth foily-five feet, the height of the roof thirty feet, and that of the steeple l45 feet. After the fire of London, this church was made parochial for the parish of St. Austin and that of St. Faith, which was united to it. Sessions' House, Clerkenwell Green, On the west side of Clerkenwell Green is the sessions' house for the county of Middlesex. The former sessions' house was situated in the middle of St. John Street, and was called Hicks's-hall, fi-ora its founder. Sir Baptist Hicks, by whom it was erected in the year 1611, and given for the perpetual use of the magistrates of the county. This building having be- come very ruinous, and being also extremely inconvenient, an act of parliament was obtained in the year 1779 for erecting a new one ; and, a convenient spot of ground having been pur- chased on Clerkenwell Green, the fii'st stone of the- present edifice was laid on the 20th of August in that year, and it was opened for business in 1782. The east and principal front of it, towards Clerkenwell Green, is composed of four three- quarter columns, and' two pilasters, of the Ionic order, supported by a rustic basement. The county arms are placed in the tympanum of the pediment. Under the entablature are two medallions, which represent Justice and Mercy. In the fonaier, Justice holds'the scales and sword ; and in the latter, Mercy grasps the blunted sword and the sceptre, capped with the British crown, on which, as emblematic of the mildness of the British laws, rests a dove, with an olive-branch in its mouth. In the centre, between Justice and Mercy, is a me- dallion of his majesty, George III., in profile, decorated with festoons of laurel and oak leaves, the emblems of sti'ength and valom'. At each extremity is a medallion, containing the Roman fasces and sword, the insignia of authority and punishment. The extent of tliis buUding is 110 feet from east to west, and 78 feet fiom north to south. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 103 The liall is tlmty-four led sfjiiave, and terminates at the top in a circular dome, enlightened by six circular windows, each four feet eleven inches in diameter. This dome is panelled in stucco, and the spandrils under it are decorated with shields and oak-leaves. The sides of the hall are finished with pilasters of the composite order, crowned with an entablature, the frieze of which is ornamented with foliage and medallions, representing the caduceus of Mercury, and the Roman fasces. From the hall a double flight of steps leads up to the court, which is in the form of the Roman letter D, and is thirty-four feet by thu'ty, and twenty-six feet high, with spacious galleries on the sides for the auditors. The rooms on each side of the entrance are appropriated to the meetings of the magis- trates. In one of them is the original portrait of Su- Baptist Hicks, which was brought fi'om the old sessions' house, with the arms and ornaments which decorated the chimney of the dining room there ; and in the other is a good copy of the picture. Lyon's Inn Hall. — Barnard's Inn. Opposite to the New Inn, on the south side of Wych Street, is Lyon's Inn, which is a house of chanceiy, belonging to the Inner Temple. It was anciently a common iini, having the sign of the lion, and is said to have been in the possession of the students and practitioners of the law ever since the year 1420. On the south side of Holborn is Barnard's Inn, which is also an inn of Chancery, and an appendage to Gray's Inn. It was anciently denominated Mackworth's Imi, and was given to the society in the year 1454, by the executors of John Mackworth, dean of Lincoln. Fleet Street. It appears, from Fabian and others, that this was the principal pait of tlie Saxon city ; and that in king Ethelred's reign, London had more building from Ludgate towards West ■ minster, and little or none where the chief or heart of the city now is. This might have arisen from the incursions of the Danes, as the gates identify the more ancient city. The very interesting and picturescpie view of this sti-eet, seen from the point nliere the engraving was taken, represents St. Dunstan's church (since taken down) ; proceediii"- westward, on the left, the newly erected handsome banking-house of Messrs. Hoaie and Company, on the opposite side the way, and that fine object. Temple Bar, in the front distance. The Tower of London stands on the celebrated eminence called Tower Hill ; and, thougli said to be of very ancient date, cannot be traced with any certainty beyond the time of William the Conqueror, «'ho built what is now called the Wlute Tower, and enlarged the whole, which at present ]04 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. covers twelve superficial acres ; its ramparts are surrounded by a deep and wide ditch, pro- ceeding north on cacli side of the fortress, nearly in a parallel line, and meeting in a semi- circular projection. The slope is faced witli brick work, and the walls liave been so much mended that the original stone is scarcely to be seen. Cannon arc placed at intervals round the wall, though the interior is completely lined with old houses. The principal entrance into the Tower is by tlie west gate, large enough to admit coaches and heavy carnages. This gateway itself is entered by an outer gate, opening to a strong stone bridge built over the ditch. The Traitor's Gate is a low arch through the wall, on the south side, on which there are several old decayed towers, intermixed with modem brick offices and ragged fragments of patched ciu-tains ; and this gate communicates by a canal with the river Thames. Besides these, there is an entrance for foot passengers over the draw -bridge to tlie \^harf, opened every morning. The points of a huge portcullis may still be seen over the arch of the principal gate, and great ceremony is used at opening and shutting it night and morning. This mass of buildings is remarkable on several accounts. Tlie principal buildings within the Tower walls are, the White Tower and the Chapel of St. .John, where the records are lodged within the same ; the Church of St. Peter Ad Vincula infi-a Turrim, the Ordnance Office, the Record Office, the Jewel Office, the Horse Armoury, the Grand Storehouse, in which is tlie small armoury, and the Menagerie. Here are like- wise apartments for state prisoners. The White Tower, or interior fortress, is a large square irregular building, almost in the centre of the Tower, consisting of three lofty stories, having under them commodious vaults for salt-petrc, &c. : on the top, covered with lead, is a cistern or reservoir, from which, in case of necessity, the whole garrison might be supplied Avith water. The palace within the Tower was in the south-east angle of the walls, and was used by the kings of England, nearly 500 years, only ceasing to be so on the accession of queen Elizabeth, who, after being confined as a prisoner by queen Mary, had, probably, no longing to renew her residence in the Tower. On a long platform before the Tower, on the Thames' side, sixty-one pieces of cannon used to be planted, and fired on rejoicing days ; but these were removed in 1814, and those on the rampails ai"e used in their stead. After passing the spuv-guaid, in a spacious enclosure, at the right hand, is the repository for wild beasts, &c., presented to the British sovereign from foreign potentates, which are shown to the public by the keepers for a shilling each person ; for this fee the beholders are informed of the names, genealogies, &c., of the different animals, which are well worth seeing, as they are kept remarkably clean and healthy in capacious dens. It is a necessary caution, however, not to go within the rails, or to attempt to play tricks, as the beasts whelped in the Tower are much more fierce than those brought over wild. Having passed the bridge, the wardens wait at the principal gate, to aifovd information to strangers, and to conduct them to view the many and valuable cmiosities with which the Tower abounds. These are so various, that the minute description of them would furnish LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 105 a volume ; wc cau, therefore, only mention, that the Horse Armoury contains the representa- tions of sixteen English Monarclis on horseback, and in complete armour. The Small Armoury contains complete stands of arms, bright, clear, and flinted, for 150,000 men ; besides cannon and ]Mkes, s\vords, &c., innumerable, ranged in regular order. The Jewel Office contains the imperial crown, placed on the heads of the Kings of England at their coronation, the Prince of Wales's crown, golden spurs and bracelets, the crown jewels, and a great quantity of curious old plate. The Ordnance Office, burnt 1789, has been rebuilt in a way so as to prevent the recurrence of such an accident. The Record Office is opposite the platform, but, like the Ordnance Office, is not a place of mere curiosity, access being confined to such persons as may have particular business to transact there. The chapel, dedicated to St. Peter Ad Vincula, may be seen, by applying to the pew- opener, at any time, for a small fee. Prerogative Will Office, Doctor's Commons. This court is thus denoiuinated from the prerogative of the Archbishop of Canterbury, who, by a special privilege beyond those of his suffragans, can here try all disputes that happen to arise concerning the last wills of persons within bis province, who have left goods to the value of five pounds and upwards, unless such things are settled by composition be- tween the metropolitan and his suffragans ; as in the diocese of London, where it is ten pounds. To this court belongs a judge, who is styled Judex Cnrice Prerogativa^ Cantuariensis ; and a registi'ar, who hath convenient rooms in his office, for the disposing and laying up safe all original wills and testaments. This registrar also hath his deputy, besides several clerks. Ben Jonson's Head, Devebeux Court, Strand. Ben Jonson, one of the most considerable dramatic poets of the seventeenth century, whether we consider the number or the merit of his productions, was the son of a clergyman in Westminster, where he was born in the year 1574, about a month after the death of his father. He was descended of a Scottish family ; for it appears that his father had been pos- sessed of an estate in Scotland, which he lost in the reign of Queen Maiy. The familj' name was .Johnson, but for some reason, which is not known, our poet always «Tote it with- out the h. His education was begun at a private school, in St. Mai'tin in the Fields, whence he was removed to Westminster- school, and placed under the tuition of the gi'eat Camden ; but, liis mother having nian'ied a bricklayer, Ben was taken home, and obliged to work at his father-in-law's trade. This was an indignity his mind could not submit to ; he therefore enlisted as a soldier, and was sent over to the Low Countries, where he distin- guished himself by killing one of the enemy in single combat, and carrying off the spoils in sight of both armies. On his return to England, he entered himself of St. John's College, Cambridge ; but, his 2 E jng LONJDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. finances not permitting him to prosecute his studies, he joined a company of players. While he belonged to this company, a quaixel took place between him and one of his associates, which produced a duel, and Ben killed his antagonist ; for which he was con- demned, and narrowly escaped execution. Shakspeare is said to have introduced him to the world, by bringing a play of his on the stage, and performing a principal pait in it himself. Thus encouraged, his genius ripened apace, and, fi-om 1598 to 1()03, he furnished the stage with a new play regularly every year. Afterwards, he became more slow in his productions, though he still continued to write. In 1619, he obtained the degree of master of arts, at Oxford, and was made poet-laureat to James I., with a salary of one hundred marks per annum, and a tierce of wine. As we do not find his economical vutues any where recorded, it will not appear surprising that this sum was too little for his wants ; for which reason, on the accession of Chai-les I., he peti- tioned for, and obtained, an increase of his allowance, fiom marks to pounds. Still his extravagance exceeded his income, and, quickly alter, we leani that he was very poor and sick, lodging in an obsciu'e alley. Chai'les was again applied to, and sent him ten guineas, wliich was so much below his wishes, that he said, on receiving it, " His majesty has sent me ten guineas, because I am poor and live in an alley ; go and tell him that his soul lives in an alley." He died on the 16th of August, 1637, and was bmied in Westminster-abbey, where a marble monument is erected to his memory, with this laconic inscription : Rare Ben Jonson ! Church of St. Anne, Soho. The parish of St. Anne was separated from that of St. Martin in the Fields by an act of parliament passed in the year 1 66 1 ; previous to which, a piece of ground was laid out, under the autliority of the bishop of London, in Kemp's field, now King-street, for the site of a church and church-yai-d, and also for a glebe for the support of a rector. But, the in- habitants not being empowered by this act to raise money for accomplishing their purpose, the building of the chm'ch was long inteiTupted, and at length a second act was obtained, to enable them to raise the siun of five thousands pounds, for the completion of the chm-ch, rectory house, &c., and on the 25th of March, 1685, the church and cemetery were conse- crated by the bishop of London. The walls of this church aie of brick, with rustic quoins of stone, and at the east end is a large modillion cornice and triangailai- pediment. This church has been since repaired, and a handsome painted glass window has been put up at the east end. The tower and steeple at the west end were also rebuilt at the same time. The interior of the building is handsome. The roof is arched and divided into panels. It is supported by cohunns of the Ionic order ; and the gallery is raised on those of the Tuscan order. The organ is the gift of King AVilliam III. The parish is a rectory in the gift of the bishop of London. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. ]07 Against the tower is a tablet erected to tlic memoi-y of Theodore Antlionv Newhofl' kiii"- of Corsica, who died in this parish in the year 1756, soon after his liberation from tlie Kin"-'s- bench prison by an act of insolvency. The malice of fortune pursued this unfortunate man even after death. The friend who sheltered him in the last days of his wretched existence was himself so poor as to be unable to defray the cost of his funeral, and bis remains were about to be consigned to the gi-ave by the parish, when a Mr. Wright, an oilman, in Comp- ton-street, declared he for once would pay the funeral expenses of a king ; which he actually did. The marble was erected and the epitaph WTitten by the honourable Horace Walpole. It is as follows : — The grave, great teacher, to a level brings Heroes and beggars, galley slaves and kings. But Theodore this moral learn'd ere dead, Fate pour'd its lessons on his living head, Bestow'd a kingdom, and denied him bread. Church of St. Mary, Whiteciiapel. This church is of some antiquity, as appears by Hugh de Fulbourn being rector thereof in the year 1329. It was originally a chapel of ease to the church of St. Dunstan, Stepney, and is supposed to have obtained the epithet of White fi-om having been white-washed or plastered on the outside. The lirst church erected on the spot, after it ceased to be a chapel of ease of Stepney parish, was dedicated to St. Mary Matfolou, and the township acquired the appellation of Villa Beatae Marias de Matfelon ; a name which has given birtli to many conjectures respecting its signification, but which is probably derived from the Hebrew word Matfel, which signifies both a woman lately delivered of a son, and a woman canying her infant son ; cither of which significations is applicable to the Virgin Mary and her holy babe. The old chiu-ch being in a very ruinous condition, it was taken down in 1673, and the present edifice was soon after erected in its stead. This is a coarse and very irregular building ; the body, which is formed of brick, and ornamented with stone rustic work at the corners, is ninety-three feet in length, sixty-three feet in breadth ; and the height of the tower and tiuTct is eighty feet. The principal door is oniamented with a kind of nistic pilasters, with cherubs' heads by way of capitals, and a pediment above. The body is enlightened with a great number of windows, which are of various forms, and different sizes, a sort of Venetian, oval and square. The sqnare windows have ill-proportioned circulai' pediments ; and the oval, or more properly elliptic windows, some of wliich stand upright, and others cross-ways, are sun'ounded with thick festoons. The steeple, which is of stone, rises above the principal door, and is crowned with a plain square battlement, in the centre of which rises a small tun'et, with its dome and vane. It was some time since thoroughly repaired. 108 london in the nineteenth century. Church of Ai.lhallows Staining, Mark Lane. This chui-cli is believed to be of Saxon origin, because of the additional epithet of Stane now coiTuptly called Staining ; which onr antiquaries are of opinion was given to it on, account of being built with stone, to distinguish it from some of the other cluirches in this city, of the same name, that were built of wood. The first authentic mention of it is in the year 1320, when Edward Camel was incumbent thereof It was anciently a rectory, under the patronage of the De Walthams, and others, till about 1369, when Simon, bishop of London, upon the petition of the abbot and convent of Grace, near the Tower, appropriated it to them and their successors, with power to convert the jirolits to their own use, and to supply the cure with either a monk or a secular priest, re- movable at their pleasure. This curacy devolving with the abbey to the crown, it was sold on the 7th of October, 1()07, by king James I. to George Bingley, and others, to be held of the cro^n, in soccage ; and, coming afterwards to the Lady Slany, was by her be- queathed to the company of Grocers, who have since held the advowson. This church escaped the fire in 166(j ; but it was in so ruinous a state, that the body of it fell down three years after, and the whole was rebuilt, at the expense of the parishioners, as it now appeal's. It is a very plain edifice, enlightened witli Gothic windows ; but the front, which is of free-stone, is of the Tuscan order. It has a square tower, crowned with a small turret. The length of the church is seventy-eight feet, its breadth thirty-two, and its height twenty-four ; and the altitude of the tower is seventy feet. Church of St. Martin Orgar, St. Martin's Lane, Cannon Street. The church of St. Maitin Orgai' stood on the east side of St Mailin's-lane, near Cannon- sti'eet, and was so denominated fi-om its dedication to St. Martin, and from Ordganis, who was supposed to be the founder of it. It was also a rectory, the patronage of which was granted by Ordgarus, with the consent of his wife and sons, to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's, about the year 1181, in whom it still remains ; and, since the union of this parish to that of St. Clement, they present alternately with the bishop of London. The remains of this church being found capable of repair, after the fii'e in 1 666, a body of French protestants, in communion with the church of England, obtained a lease of the tower and ruinous nave, from the minister and church-wardens, which being confirmed by parliament, they repaired it, and converted it into a place of worship for their own use. Church of St. Nicholas, Cole-Abbey, Old Fish Street. On the south side of Old Fish-street, at the corner of Labour-in-vain-hill, stands the parish church of St. Nicholas, Cole-abbey ; which is so denominated fi'om being dedicated to St. Nicholas, Bishop of Mera ; but the reason of the additional epithet is not known ; LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. ]09 some coiijocturing it to be a corruption of Golden-abbey, and others, tliat it is derived from Cold-abbey, or Culdbey, from its cold or bleak situation. It is kno\\'ii that there was a church in the same place, before the year 1377, when, according to Stow, the stee])le, and south aisle, which were not so old as the rest of the chm-ch, were rebuilt ; but, the last structure being consumed in the great conflagi-ation in 1666, the present church was built in its place, and tlie parish of St. Nicholas, Olave, united to it. This edifice consists of a plain body, built of stone, well enlightened by a single range of windows. It is sixty-three feet long, and forty-three feet broad, Ihirty-six feet higli to the roof, and one hundred and thirty-five to the top of the spire. The tower is plain, but strengthened with rustic at the corners ; and the spire, which is the fi-ustrum of a pyramid, and covered with lead, has a gallery, and many openings. This was the first chiucli built and completed after the fire. The advowson of this rectory was anciently in the Dean and Chapter of St. Martin's-le- Grand ; but, upon the grant of that colleuiate chm-ch to the abbot and canons of West- minster, the patronage devolved to that convent, in whom it continued till the dissolution of their monastery ; when", coming to the crown, it remained therein till Queen Elizabeth in the yeai- 1560, granted the patronage thereof to Thomas Reeve and George Evelyn, and their heirs, in soccage, who conveying it to others, it came at last to the family of the Hackers, one whereof was Colonel Francis Hacker, commander of the guai'd that conducted King Charles I. to and from his trial, and at last to the scaffold ; for wliich, after the Re- storation, he was executed as a traitor, when the advowson reverted to the crown, in whom it still continues. Church of Allhallows, London Wall. A little to the east of where Beth'lem Hospital fomierly stood, is the parish church of All- hallows, London Wall. The patronage of this cluuch, whicli is a rectory, was anciently in the prior and convent of the Holy Trinity, ncai- Aldgate, who presented Thomas Richard de Sanston to it, in 1.335. At the dissolution of religious houses, in the time of Henry VIII., tliis church, with tlie priory to which it belonged, was surrendered to the crown, in whom the advowson stiU re- mains. The old church escaped the fire of London, but became so ruinous, that in 1765 the parishioners obtained an act of parliament to empower them to pull it down, together ^\ith the parsonage house, and to enable tliem to raise money by aimuities to rebuild it. The present church is built of brick and stone, and, though plain, is very neat. It is longer than the old church, and the rector's house stands at the north-east corner of the church-vard. 2 r no LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Westminster Hall Was built by William Rufus as a bauqueling-liouse to the palace, wlucli then stood in Old Palace-Yard ; but old Westminster Hall was pulled down, and the present edifice erected in its stead, in the year 1397. This ancient building is of stone, the front orna- mented ^^^th two towers, adorned with carved work. The hall within is reckoned the largest room in Europe, being 270 feet in length and seventy-four in breadth. The pave- ment is of stone, and the roof of chestnut-wood. It was foimerlj covered with lead, but, this being fovmd too weighty, it has been slated for many years past. On entering the hall to the right, is the entrance to the Court of King's Bench, and on the left are stairs leading to various offices. The Court of Common Pleas is on the west side, nearly in the middle of the hall, and was established by Magna Charta in the year 1215, being before ambulatory, in following the king. The Court of Chancery is so called from the Latin word Cancelli, or a screen, within which the judges sat to determine causes, without being annoyed by the spectators. The Court of King's Bench, situated on the right directly on entering the Hall, is so called from a high bench on which our ancient monai'chs usually sat in person, whilst the judges to whom the judicature Avas deputed in their absence sat on lower benches at their feet. The delapidated state of the exterior of this fine Hall was long a subject of regret with the antiquary, as the figiu'es, arms, and other decorations that originally adorned the gate and walls, were fast sinking to decay. These, however, as well as the various courts and offices, have been recently repaired and restored by Mr. Soane. The front and other parts of the exterior, have likewise undergone a complete repair by the same architect, and which has given occasion for much animadver.sion and severe criticism. A dark passage IVom the south-east comer of the Hall formerly led to St. Stephen's Chapel Yard and Old Palace Yard. From this part the beautiful ancient cloisters might be observed, with their rich-groined arches and sculjitured key-stones. Before this Hall was anciently a handsome conduit or fountain, with numerous spouts ; whence, on occasions of rejoicing, streams of wine issued to the populace ; at other times the inhabitants received the waste water from this source for their domestic nses. Church of St. John the Evangelist, Westminster. The parish of St. Margai-et being greatly increased m the number of houses and inhabi- tants, it was judged necessary to erect one cf the fifty new churches within it. This church, being finished, was dedicated to St. John the Evangelist; a parish was taken out of St. Mru'gavet's, and the parliament granted the simi of two thousand five hundred pounds, to be laid out in the purchase of lands, tenements. Sec, for the maintenance of the rector; but, besides the profits arising from tliis purchase, it was also enacted, That, as a farther LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Hj provision foi' the rector, the sum of one hundred and twenty-five pounds sliould bo aiiimallv raised, by an equal pound rate upon tlie inliabitants. This church was begun in 1721, and finished in 1728, and is remarkable only for having sunk while it was building, which occasioned an alteration in the plan. On the north and south sides are magnificent porticos, supported by vast stone pillars, as is also the roof of the church. At each of the four corners is a beautiful stone tower and pinnacle : these additions were erected, that the whole might sink equally, and owe their magnitude to the same cause. The parts of this building are held together by iron bars, ^^hich cross even the aisles. The advowson of this church is in the Dean and Chapter of Westminster: and, to prevent this rectory being held in commcndam, all licenses and dispensations for holding it are, by act of parliament, declared null and void. The Royal Military Asylum, Chelsea, For the children of the soldiers of the regular* ai'my, is near the Royal Hospital, and adjoining the King's Road. This building is environed on all sides with high walls, and a handsome iron railing before the grand front. This edifice, built of brick, forms tluee sides of a quadrangle, with an elegant stone balustrade. The centre of the western fi-ont has a noble portico of the Doric order, consisting of four immense columns, supporting a large and well-proportioned pediment ; on the frieze of vvhicli is inscribed, " The Royal Mihtary Asylum for the Children of the Soldiers of tlie Regular Array." Over this inscription are the royal arms. Here arc seven hundred boys, and three hundred girls ; the boys wear red jackets, blue trowsers, &c. ; and the girls red gowns, blue' petticoats, straw bonnets, white aprons, &c. ; it is commonly called " the Duke of York's school," from his late Royal Highness having been the chief promoter and patron of the institution. Spencer-House, Green P/vrk. From Cleveland Row, Piccadilly, is a passage leading to the Green Park. The Wilder- ness, ^Adth the Ranger's Lodge, the Lawn, the Water, the Walks, and the extensive pros- pects, render which extremely beautiful The east side is ornamented with the houses of many of the nobility, with gardens before them. Spencer House is one of the most worthy of notice ; the Park front of this mansion is ornamented to a high degree, though the pediment in it is considered too lofty, and has not the gi-ace and majesty of the low Grecian pediment. The statues on the pediment, and the vases at each extremity, must be mentioned with approbation, as they are in a good style, and judiciously disposed. The in- terior of Spencer House is not inferior to the outside; but its chief ornament is The Library. 112 london in the nineteenth century. The Albany, Pjccadilly. Adjoining to Biulington-Housc is the Albany Hotel, first inhabited by Lord Melbourne, and exchanged with him by the late Duke of York. When his Royal Highness quitted pos- session, the next proprietors built on the gardens, and converted the whole into chambers for the casual residence of the nobility and gentry who had not settled residences in town. The name of the Albany was given to tliis house in compliment to tlie Prince Duke, whose second title is Duke of Albany. Here also stood the house of the Earl of Sutherland, whose advice ruined his sovereign James the Second. The present stnicture is the work of the late Sir William Chambers. Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate Street. On the east side of the street, nearly opposite to Westmoreland buildings, is Shaftesbury, or, as it is sometimes called, Thanet-house. This edifice, which is by the masterly hand of luigo Jones, is biiilt with brick, and ornamented with stone, in a very elegant taste- The front is adorned with Ionic pilasters, from the volutes of which hang garlands of foliage. These pilasters ai'e doubled on each side of the centre window, over whicli is an arched pediment, opened for the reception of a shield. Tlie door is arched, and from each side of it springs an elegant scroll, for the support of a balcony. This structure had been let out for mechanical uses, and was going fast to decay, when, in the year 1750, the London L}dng-in-hospital was instituted. The promoters of that charity, having hired this house, repaired it thoroughly, and preserved it for a time, from the fate of its opposite neighbours. The increase of that institution having rendered a larger building necessary, they quitted Shaftesbury -house, in 1771, and were succeeded by the General Dispensary, which still occupies the hack part of it. The front is di%nded into tenements, and let to respectable shopkeepers. Broad Street, Bloomsbury, and Church of St. Giles. This magnificent edifice, seen to gi-eat advantage fi-om Broad St., Bloomsbury, is exceed- ing lofty, and the whole of it is built of Portland stone. The ai'ea of the chiu-ch mthin the walls is sixty feet wide, and seventy-five in length, exclusive of tlie recess for the altar. The roof is supported with Ionic pillars of Portland stone on stone piers, and is vaulted un- derneath. The outside of the church has a rustic basement, and the %vindows of the galleries have semiciixulai- heads, over which is a medallion cornice. The steeple is one hundred and sixty feet high, and consists of a iiistic pedestal, supporting a Doric order of pilasters, and over the clock is an octangular tower M-ith three quarter Ionic columns, sup- porting a balustrade with vases ; on this tower stands the spue, which is also octangular and belted. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. II3 The author of the Review of the Public Buildings says, " The new church of St. Giles is one of the most simple and elegant of the modern structures : it was raised at a very little expense, has very few ornaments, and little beside the jjropriety of its parts, and tlie hai-mony of the whole, to excite attention, and challenge applause, yet still it pleases, and justly too. The east end is both plain and ma.iestic, and there is nothing in the west to object to but the smallness of tlie doors, and the poverty of appearance that must necessarily follow. The steeple is light, airy, and genteel ; argues a good deal of genius in the architect, and looks very well, both in comparison with the body of the churcli, and when it is considered as a building by itself in a distant prospect. The expense of erecting this cliurch amounted to ten thousand and twentj^-six pounds, fifteen shillings and nine-pence, including the eight thousand pounds granted by parliament. It is a rectory in the gift of the crown. Over the north-west door into the church-yard is a curious piece of sculpture, repre- se!)ting tlie Day of Resuixection. It contains a great number of figures, and was set up about the year 1686. HoLBORN Bridge, Church or St. Andrew, &c. It would be difficult, perhaps, to select any single point of the metropolis better calcu- lated to convey to the mind of a stranger some idea of its unceasing bustle and traffic than the pai't of Holborn Bridge from whicli om- view of this scene is taken. Here, what A\as formerly Fleet Market, but is now called Farringdon Street, terminates to the north, and pours forth its lining stream from Fleet Street ; whicli, running parallel, may be considered as dividing with Holborn the principal communication and traffic from east to west. The church of St. Andrew, on the left of the view, was one which escaped the fire of London, but was found so ruinous that it was entirely rebuilt in 1687, except the tower, which was not erected till 1 704. The body of the church is one hundi-ed and five feet long, sixty-three feet broad, and forty-three feet high, and the height of the tower is one hundred and ten feet. The body is well built, and enlightened by two series of windows, and on the top of it runs a, handsome balustrade. The tower rises square, and consists only of two stages, cro^^■ned with battlements and pinnacles at the corners. The first stage which is plain, has the dial : in the upper stage there is a very handsome windo\v to each fiont ; tall, arched, and decorated with Doric pilasters, which support a lofty arched pedi- ment, decorated ^^■ithin by a shield. The cornice, that crowns the tower, is supported by scrolls ; and the balustrade that rises above tliis has a very firm base. Each corner of the tower has an ornamental pinnacle, consisting of four large scrolls, which, meeting in a body, support a pine-apple ; and from the crown of the fruit rises a vane. The inside is extremelj' neat, .and well finished. Over the communion-table is a large painted window, the lower part of whicli represents the Messiah and his disciples at the Last Supper ; and in a com- partment above is represented liis resuiTection from the grave. The church stands at an 114 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. advantageous distance from the street, from which it is separated by a wall that incloses the church-yard, and the entrance to it is by large and elegant iron gates. The church is a rectory, the patronage of which was originally in the gift of the Dean and Canons of St. Paul's, who transfeiTed it to the Abbot and Convent of Bermondsey, who continued patrons of it till their convent was dissolved by ITenry VIII., when that prince granted it to Thomas Lord AVriothesley, afterwards Earl of Southampton, from whom it de- scended by maniage to the late Duke of Montague, in whose family the pati'onage still remains. Churches of St. Mildred, Bread Street, and St. Bartholomew the Great, West Smithfield. Bread Street, iu wliich the father of Milton resided as a scrivener, contains the parish church of St. Mildred: the front of fi-ee-stone, the other parts of brick. The roof is covered ■with lead, and the floor paved with Purbeck stone. The pulpit and the altar-piece are handsomely adorned ; and the communion-table stands upon a foot-piece of black and white marble. On the east side of Smithfield, and at the north end of Duck Lane, .stands the parish church of St. Bailholomew the Great. This church was originally a parish church adjoin- ing to that of the priory of St. Bartholomew ; but, when the latter was pulled down to the choir, that part was annexed by the king's order for the enlargement of the old church ; in which manner it continued till queen Mary gave the remnant of the priory church to the Black Friars, who used it as theii' conventual church till the first year of queen Elizabeth, when the fi'iars were turned out, and the church was restored, by act of parliament, to the parish. The present church is the same as it stood in the reign of Edward VI., except the steeple, which, being of timber, was taken down in the year 1628, and a new one, of brick and stone, erected. It is a spacious edifice of the Gothic and Tuscan orders, one hundred and thii-ty-two feet long, fifty-seven broad, and forty-seven high ; and the altitude of the tower is seventy-five feet. Church of St. Mary, Lambeth. A chiurch stood on the present site till the year 1.374, about which time it was rebuilt, there being commissions still preserved, dated in that year, and in 1377, for compelling the inhabitants of Lambeth to contribute to the rebuilding of their new church and tower. The tower, which is of free-stone, still remains ; the other parts of the structui'e appear to have been built at different times. In its present form it consists of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel ; the nave being separated from the aisles by octagonal piUars and pointed arches. The walls are built of flint, mixed with stone and brick ; and both the tower and the body of the church are crowned mth battlements. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and is a rectory in the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 115 In the south-east window of the middle aisle is a painting of a man followed by a dog, which is said to have been put up in compliance with the will of a pedlar, who left a small piece of gi-ound to the parish, on condition that a picture of him and his dog should he put up and preserved in its present situation. Wliether this tradition be true or not, there is a piece of ground on the Sun-ey side of Westminster-bridge called Pedlar's Acre, which con- tains about an acre and nine poles, and belongs to Lambeth parish. Mr. L3'sons is of opinion that this tradition originates in a rebus upon the name of the donor, and gives a similar instance from the chiuch of Swaffham, in Norfolk, in which there is a portrait of John Chapman, a great benefactor to the parish, and in different parts of the church the device of a pedlar aud his pack. By whatever means Pedlar's Acre became the property of the parish, it must have happened prior to 1504, when it was let for two shillings and ejght-pencc per annum. It is now estimated at several hundred pounds a year. In this church were interred the mild and amiable prelates, Tunstal, of Diuham, and Tliiileby, of Ely ; who, being deprived of then.- sees for their conscientious attachment to tlie Catholic religion, lived the remainder of their days under the protection, rather than in the custody, of Archbishop Parker, wlio revered their virtues, and felt for theii- misfortunes. The body of Thirlcby was found in digging a grave for Archbishop Cornwallis. His long and venerable beard, and every part M^as entire, and of a beautifiil whiteness ; a slouched hat was under his left aim, and his dress was that of a pilgrim, as he esteemed himself to be upon earth. "WESTMIN.STER BRIDGE Is a structure of that simplicity and grandeur, that, whether viewed from the water, or by the land-passenger, it fills the mind with admiration. This bridge is regarded by ai'chitects as one of the most beautiful in the world. It A^as begiin in the year 1738, and finished in 1750, and cost £ 389,500. The whole of the superstructiu-e is of Portland stone, except the spandrils of the ai-ches. It is 1223 feet long, and 44 feet A\ide ; has fifteen large semi- circular aiches. The central arch is seventy-six feet wide ; the other ai'ches decreasing in width five feet. The quantity of stone used in this bridge is said to have been nearly double to what was employed in St. Paul's Cathedral. Before this bridge was built, the houses in this part of Westminster were very ruinous. Many of these were probably biult about Le Wolstaple, held in New Palace-Yard. Henry the Sixth had no less than six wool-houses in this place ; and the conflux of people towards this wool-market caused such an increase, that in time the royal village of Westminster became a town, London Docks. To foi-m these Docks, great part of the parish of Wapping has been excavated; and these excavations extend from the Thames almost to Ratcliff' Highway, and ai-e enclosed by a wall of brick, lined with warehouses. St. George's Dock co\ ers the space from Virginia- ^jg LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Street almost to Old Gravel-Lane in one direction, and is capable of holding 500 ships, with room- for shifting. Another, called Shadwell Dock, adjoining, will hold about fifty ships ; and the entrance to both is by three basons, capable of containing an immense quantity of small craft. The inlets from the Thames into the basons are at the Old Hermitage Dock, Old Wapping Dock, and Old Shadwell Dock. The fonndation of the entrance bason to these was laid on the 26th of June 1802, by the Chancellor of the Exchequer, with the first stone of a tobacco warehouse. Since the conclusion of the late peace with France, this busy scene has under- gone various changes and improvements. Russell Square Is considerably larger than any other in London, Lincoln's-Inn-Fields excepted. The south side is graced by a pedesUian statue, in bronze, of the late duke of Bedford, by Mr. Westmacott : his grace reposes one arm on a plough ; the left hand holds the gifts of Ceres. Children playing round the feet of the statue, personify the four seasons. To the four corners biills' heads are attached, in a very high relief; the ca^ty beneatli the upper mould- iiiTs has heads of cattle in recumbent postures. On the caned sides are rural subjects in basso relievo : the first is the preparation for the ploughman's dinner; his wife, on her knees, attends the culinary department ; a youth is also represented sounding a hom ; two rustics aud a team of oxen complete the group. The second composition is made up of reapers and gleaners ; a young woman in the centre is delineated \Wth the agreable features and general comeliness of a village favomite. These enrichments, the four seasons, and the statue of the duke, are cast in bronze, and are very higldy finished. The pedestal is of Scotch granite ; aud with the superstructure, from the level of the ground to the summit of the monument, measures twenty-seven feet. The principal figure is nine feet high. The only inscription in front is, " Francis, Duke of Bedford; erected 1809." Bloomsbury Square. The north side of this Square is embellished with a statue of the late Right Hon. Charles James Fox. The work consists simply of a statue of colossal dimensions, being to a scale of nine feet in height, executed in bronze, and elevated upon a pedestal of granite, simnount- iu"- a spacious base, formed of several gradations : the whole is about seventeen feet in height. Dignity and repose appear to have been the leading objects of the artist's ideas ; he has adopted a sitting position, and habited the statue in the consular robe, the ample folds of which, passing over the body, and falling from die seat, give breadth and effect to the whole. The right aim is extended, the hand supporting Magna Chai'ta ; the left is in repose. The head is inclined rather forward, expressive of attention, finnness, and complacency : the likeness of IMi-. Fox is perfect and striking. The inscription, which is in letters of bronze, is, " Charles James Fox, erected m.dccc.xvx." This statue, and the statue of the late duke of Bedford, by the same artist (Westmacott), at the other extremity of Bedford-Place, form two gi'and and beautiful ornaments of the metropolis. london in the nineteenth century. 117 Newgate, Old Bailey, and Giltspur Street Compter. Between Snow-hill and Ludgatc-hill nins tlie street called the Old Bailey, which many of our antiquaries are of opinion is a corniption of Bale-hill, an eminence whereon was situ- ated the Bale, or Bailifi's-house, wherein he held a coiu-t for the trial of malefactors ; and tliis opinion seems to be corroborated by such a com-t having been held here for many cen- turies, in which there is a place of security, where the sheriffs keep their prisoners during the session, which still retains the name of the Bale-dock. On tlie east side of the Old Bailey, and contiguous to the place where the Newgate of the city formerly stood, is the gaol for the county of Middlesex, which, from being appropriated to the same uses, also beai-s the name of Newgate. It is a massy stone building, consisting of two parts, that on the north being formerly appropriated for debtors, and that on the south for felons, between which is a dwelling-house, occupied by the keeper. The whole of the front is formed of rustic work, and at the extremities of each face are arched niches for statues. Contiguous to this building, and only separated from it by a square court, is Justice-hall, commonly called the Sessions-house. This was ibrmerly a plain brick edifice ; but it has since been rebuilt entirely of stone, and is brought so much forwarder than the old one as to be parallel with the street. On the north side, or fi-ont, are two flights of steps leading to the court-room, which has a gallery on each side for the accommodation of spectators. The prisoners are brought to this coirrt from Newgate by a passage that closely connects the two buildings ; and there is a con- venient place under the Sessions-house in front, for detaining the prisoners till they are called upon their trials. There are also rooms for the grand and pettit jiuy, with other necessary accommodations. Opposite to the north end of the Old Bailey is Giltspur-street, wliich leads into Smith- field. On the east side of Giltspur-street, in a line with Newgate, is Giltspirr- street Compter. It is composed of three pavilions, crowned with triangular pediments, and con- nected by two galleries with flat roofs. The whole of this building, like Newgate, is of rustic stone work, but, having arched windows to the fi-ont, it has a Ugliter appearance. The corner opposite the north end of this building is remarkable for being the spot where the fire of London terminated : which event is commemorated by the figure of a bloated boy on the comer house, bearing an inscription, purporting that this dreadful conflagration was a punishment for tlie sin of gluttony. Lunatic Hospital, St. Luke's. This hospital was first established by voluntary contributions, in the year 1751, for the reception of lunatics, and was intended not oidy in aid of, but as an improvement upon Beth'lem-hospital, which, at the time of this institution, was incapable of receiving and 2 H 118 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. providing for the relief of all the unhappy objects for whom application was made. With this view, a house was erected on the north side of Moorfii^lds, and called St. Luk(;'s-hospital, from the name of the parish : but the utility of the institution was so evident, and benefac- tors increased with such rapidity, that the governors soon determined to extend its benefits to a much larger number of patients, and for thai purpose purchased the piece of ground on which the present edifice (the foundation stone of which was laid on the 20th of July, 1782) was erected, at an expense of forty thousand pounds. The north and south fi'onts of this building, which are of brick, ornamented witli stone, are exactly the same. The centre and ends project a little, and are higlier than the inter- mediate parts. The former is crowned by a triangular pediment, under which is inscribed in large letters, " Saint Luke's Hospital for Lunatics." The two latter are surmounted with an attic balustrade, which conceals the roof The whole building is divided into three stories ; and the spaces between the centre and ends are formed into long galleries ; the female patients occupying the western galleries, and the male the eastern. Between the hospital and the street is a broad space, separated fi'om the street by a wall, in the centre of which is tlie entrance, leading to the door by a flight of steps, under a roof supported by Tuscan columns. The simple grandeur of the exterior of this building, the length of wliich is four hundred and ninety-three feet, produces an effect upon the mind wliich is only superseded by a knowledge of the propriety, decency, and regularit}', which reign within, notwithstanding the unhappy state of its inhabitants. Behind the house are two large gardens, one for the men, the other for the women ; where such of the patients as can be permitted with safety are allowed to walk and take the air. Those in a more dangerous state, who are obliged to be confined with sti'ait waistcoats, have, with very few exceptions, the range of the geJleries, in which there are fires, so protected by iron bars, reacliing from tlie floor to the breast of the chimney, that no accident can possibly occur ; and in those cells where the most dangerous and hopeless patients are confined, every thing which can contribute to alleviate their miserable state is attended to. In short, the system of management in this hospital is such, that uotliing which can add to the comfort, or tend to the cure of the patients admitted into it, is neglected. City of London Lying-in Hospital. This building consists of a centre and two wings ; the latter of which project a little from the main building. In the front of the centre is a neat plain pediment. In this part of the building is a chapel, with a handsome organ, and the top of it is crowned with a light open turret, terminated by a vane. The wards for the patients au-e in the wings, and are eight in number ; each of which is so formed as to contEun ten beds : behind the building are regular and convenient ofiices. In the front of the left whig is this inscription : Erecte d by Subscription, MDCCLXXI. ; and in the front of the other wing are these words, Supported by voluntary contributions. On a slip of LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURV. 119 stone, in the centre, and also on tlie south side, are these words, The City ok London Lying-in Hospital. Tliough this is a plain building, yet it is very neatly constructed. It stands in an airy and pleasant situation, and is well adapted to the purposes for whicli it was erected. There is a public bajitisni of the children born in it, on the last Sunday in every month, to which persons may be admitted by tickets, on a])plication to any subscriber. This cliarity was Ibrmerly kept in Shaftesbury -house, Aldersgate- street; where it was in- stituted in the year 1750, by voluntary contributions. Grocers' H.4ll, Poultry. At the north end of Grocers' -hall-court is Grocers'-liall. This building is situated on a spot of gi-ound, purchased by the Grocers' company, in the year 1411, of Robert Fitz-Walter, for three hundred and twenty marks. The present structure, which has been recently new ironted and beautifully ornamented, is well designed and executed, for the purposes of a common-hall ; stately, ornamental, and so capacious, that for many years, it served for the uses of tlie Bank of England, which was kept in this hall till there was an office Ijuilt on pui-pose, in Threadneedle-street. This hall contains a portrait and statue of Sir John Cutler (who is said to have built the parlour and dining room over it), created a baronet in 1660, of Sir John Moor, Lord Mayor, 1681 ; and Sir John Fleet, Lord Mayor 1692. William Pitt, Eail of Chatham, and the Right Hon. William Pitt his son, were both members of this Company. The Grocers' Company, anciently denominated, pepperers, were incorporated by letters- patent of King Edward IH. in the year 1.34-5: formerly tliey had the management of the king's beam in the city, with a right of appointing a master weigher and four porters to attend it. This company at one time held the highest rank among the city companies ; for in the reign of Henry IV. there were no less than twelve of the aldennen, at the same time, belongino- to it. It has also been dignified with the names of five kings enrolled among its members. Brewers' Hall, Addle Street. At the eastern entrance to Addle-Street, is Brevvers'-Hall, with a large paved court. The front of this building is on the north side, composed of a rich basement, approacliing to the Tuscan order. The Brewers' Company, which is the fourteentli among the city companies, was incoi-po- rated by King Henry VI. in the year 1438, by the name of " The master, ;ind keepers or wai-dens, and commonalty of the mystery or art of Brewers of the city of London." King Edward IV. not only confirmed that charter, but granted them a fiu-ther power to make bye-laws. 120 london in the nineteenth century. Church of St. Catherine Cree, Leadenhall. At the south-east angle of Cree-church-lane, in Leadenhall- street, stands the church of St. Catlierine Cree. This church received its name from being dedicated to St. Catherine, an Egyptian virgin; and is distinguished from other churches of the same name, by the ad- dition of Cree, or Christ, from its situation in the cemetery of the conventual clmrch of the Holy Trinity, which was originally called Christ-church. The present stmctiue was erected in 1630, but repaired and beautified in 1805. It is built of stone, in a mixed style. It has rounded battlements on the top, and a square tower, with battlements of the same kind. This tower is crowned with a square turret, over which is a dome, and from its summit rises the weathercock. The length of the church is ninety feet ; the breadth fifty-one ; the altitude of the roof, which is square, supported by pilasters and columns of the Composite order, is thirty-seven feet ; and that of the steeple is seventy- five feet. At the west end of this church, adjoining to the steeple, stands a pillar of the old church, as originally erected. This pillar, from the base to tlie chapiter, upon which the arch was turned, being eighteen feet high, and but three to be seen above ground, shows the height to which the floor of the new church has been raised above that of the old. This chm-ch is a cm-acy ; and the parishioners have the privilege of choosing their own minister, who must be licensed by the Bishop of London. Church of St. Mildred, Poultry. This church is a rectory, and derives its name from its dedication to St. Mildred, a Saxon princess, and its situation. It appears to be of ancient foundation, for John de Asswel was collated to it in the year 1325 ; and in the eighteenth of Edward III. we find it -with the Chapel of Corjms Christi and St.Maiy de Coneyhope annexed, which chapel stood at the end of Couevhope-lane, or the Rabbit-mai'ket, now called Grocers'-hall-court: but being suppressed by King Henry VIII. on account of a fraternity foimded therein, it was purchased by one Thomas Hobson, a haberdasher, who turned tlie chapel into a warehouse. The old church, which had been rebuilt in 1450, was biu-nt down in ] 666, after which the present structure was erected, and the parish of St. Mary Colechurch united to it. It is a plain substantial stone building, enlightened by a series of large windows, and sti-engthened with rastic at the corners. The tower is crowned with a plain course, without pinnacles, or any other ornament. Tlie length of this chiurch is fifty-six feet, its breadth forty-two feet, the height of the roof thirty-six feet, and that of the tower seventy-five feet. Within, it is paved with Puibeck stone, the chancel with the same, mixed with black marble. There is a handsome gallery at the west end, and a good pulpit. The patronage of tliis church was in the convent and prior of St. Marj' Overy's, in South- wark, till the suppression of that religious house, when it came to the crown ; since which time, the lord chancellor presents to the living. london in the nineteenth century. 121 Christ's Hospjtal.— The Lock Hospital. Clu'ist's Hospital was founded by Edwai-d the Sixth. Of tlie ancient buUdings re- maining, there is an old cloister of the Grey Friars, part of their priory. It ser\'es for a place of recreation for the boys, especially in rainy weather. The reparations wliich this part nnderwent by Sir Chi-istopher Wren have nearly deprived it of its ancient appeai'ance. The new Grammar-school, which it is now proposed to remove for further improvements, is a very commodious structure, well adapted to its intention. The Writing-school, at the end of the gi'eat hall, is very lofty and airy, and was founded by Sir John Moore, Knt. and Alderman of the City ; and contains a desk at wliich three hundred boys may sit and write. Tliis school rests upon columns, and the space beneath is allotted for play and exercise. Sir John Moore's statue, in white marble, at full length, is placed in th(^ iront of the building- The expenditure of tlie whole establislmient of this hospital has been estimated at j£ 30,000 per annum. Many great and gross abuses having existed in the disposal of the funds of this hospital, it induced Mr. Waithman, then one of the Common Council, but since Alderman of Far- ringdon without (a man who for talent, indefatigable perseverance, undaunted courage, and consistency, has ever been one of the hrightest ornaments of tlie city of London) to institute an enquiry, the result of wliich made it evident, that instead of being a benefit to the children of the poor and friendless, it was engrossed almost exclusively by the rich. It had long been known that presentations, instead of being given, had been regularly sold by some of those who liad the disposal of tliem. It even appeared, that a clergj-nian in Middlesex, with a living not less than £1200 per annum, had solicited and received a presentation for one of his sons from a member of the count)-. — On Thursday? Jan. 25, 1810, Mr. Waithman brought in the report of the committee appointed to consider of the conduct of the governors of Christ's Hospital, which slated, that upon consulting Mr. Samuel Romillyand Mr. Bell, they recommend the petitioning of the Lord Chancellor; and the committee was therefore .requested to prepare a petition accordingly. Unhappily the inefficiency of this enquiry appeared very striking, after waiting some years for its aid ; as at a meeting of the Common Council, in the beginning of Januaiy, 1816, Mr- Waithman said, the way in which the Hospital Committee managed was, that the members of it were for life, and they elected new ones to fiU up the vacancies occasioned by death in then- own number. The children were admitted by the almoners ; and, in many instances, the cliildren of persons possessing six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven, and even some of i'1200 a year had been admitted : yet when an enquuy was instituted into tliese abuses, he found not one commoner or alderman to stand by his side, or to support liim. The great fault lay in the composition of this committee, four or five of whom managed the whole of the affairs of the hospital. The committee ought to be elected annually. He then moved, that this memorial be referred to the committee for enquiring into the afi'airs of Christ's Hospital. 2 I 122 LONDON I\ THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Sir W. Curtis, and others interested in upholding the abuses, proposed refeiTing it to the committee of City Lands, and Mr. Waitliman, again foiled in his laudable efforts, withdrew his motion. Much good has however been since effected by his unceasing exertions. It is remarkable, that since this perversion of these noble funds has been increasing, a circumstance not sufficiently noticed will appear evident in its object to the judicious observer. As testimonies to the original design of this foundation, a statue of a Blue Coat Boy in each of the four comers of the cloisters had, within the recollection of several persons living, the following ])ainted notice underneath : " This is Christ's Hospital, where poor Blue Coat Boys are harboured and educated." What sacrilegious hand removed this salutary land-mark, set up by the piety of our ancestors, wc cannot at this distance of time point out. It would seem that some reasons, not the most commendable, must have been felt lor getting rid even of these dumb witnesses ; or that modem pride and false refinement could not bear the impUcation that the objects of this charity were stUl, as they were originally termed, " The children of poor distressed men and poor distressed women." Houever, that the public may be satisfied with the excellent mode of education pursued in this national institution, the various specimens of the boys' perfonnances are exhibited at stated times in the great hall. In a niclio over the avenue into the hospital, fi-om the passage leading from Newgate-Street to the west door of Christ's Church, is the statue of Edward the Sixth. That of Charles the Second embellished the former entrance of the hospital from Newgate-Street, opposite Warwick-Lane, called Grey Friars. The Lock Hospital, Grosvenor Place, Pimlico, an engraving of which accompanies the preceding subject, is a spacious and extensive range of Buildings, appropriated for Syphilitic Maladies, Supported by voluntary contributions. Church of St. Swithin, London Stone, Cannon Street. At the south-west angle of St. Swithin's-Lane, in Cannon-sti'eet, stands the parish church of St. Swithin. This church is so called from its being dedicated to St. Smthin, Bishop of Winchester, and chancellor to King Egbert, who died in the year 806. By ancient records it appears that there was a church on this spot, dedicated to the same saint, before the year 1331 ; but how long it was standing before that time is uncertain: however, the old struc- ture was destroyed by the fire of London, and the present edifice erected in its stead. This is a plain solid and sti'ong building of stone, sixty-one feet long, and forty-two broad; the roof is forty feet, and the steeple one hundred and fifty feet high. The body is well enlightened, and the windows are arched and well proportioned. The patronage of this church appears to have been anciently in the prior and convent of Tortington, in the diocese of Chichester, in whom it continued till the dissolution of their monastery ; when coming to the crown, Henry VIII., in the year 1540, granted the same, together with a stately mansion, on the north side thereof, where Oxford-court now stands, LONDON IN THE NINJRTEENTH CENTURY. 123 to Jolin Earl of Oxford, who soon after disposing of tlic same, it passed througli several hands, and was, at lengtli, purchased by the company of Salters, in whom the patronage still remains. Against the south wall of St. Swithin's churcli is placed the famous old stone, called London-stone. This stone was much worn away before the fire of London ; but it is now cased over with a new stone, cut hollow, so that the old one may be seen. Sec a full account of this stone in a preceding part of the Work. Church of St. Michael, Queenhithe. On the north side of Thames-street, directly opposite to Queenhithe, is situated the parish church of St. Michael, Quecnliithe ; so called from its dedication to St. Michael tlic Arch- angel, and its situation near that hithe. It was formerly called St. Michael de Cornhithe all the com brought to London from the western parts of the counti-y being landed here. The earliest authentic mention of this church is in the year 1404, when Stephen Spilman, who had served the offices of alderman, sheriff, and cliamberlain, died and left part of his goods to found a chantry here. The old chiuxh being destroyed by the fire of London, the present structure was erected in its stead. It consists of a well-proportioned body, enlightened by two series of windows • the first a range of tall arched ones, and over them another range of large port-hole windows above which are cherubs' lieads, and underneath festoons that adorn the lower part, and fall between the tops of the under series. The tower is plain, but well proportioned, and is tei-minated by a spire crowned with a vane in the form of a ship. The length of this church is seventy-one feet, its breadth forty, and its height to the roof, which is flat and covered with tiles, is thirty-nine feet. The altitude of the tower and spire is one hundi-ed and thirty-five. The patronage of this church is in the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's, but it is subject to the arch-deacon. On its being rebuilt, the paiish of Trinity the Less was annexed to it ; and, tlie patronage of the latter being in the Dean and Cliapter of Canterbury, they and the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's present alternately to the united living. Christ Church, Newgate Street, Is situated behind the houses on the north side of Newgate Street, and was tlie church belonging to the Grey Friars, which was given for a parish church by Henry VIII., after the Reformation, in lieu of the two churches of St. Ewen in Newgate Market and St. Nicholas in the Sliambles. That the old church of the Grey Friars was a magnificent structure is confirmed by Weever, in his " Funeral Monuments," who informs us, that here were bmied four queens, four duchesses, four coimtesses, one duke, two eai-ls, eight barons, thiily-five knights, &c. ; 124 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. in all, six hundrcil and sixty-three persons of quality were interred here before the disso- lulioii of liie c()n^ ent. In the choir were nine tombs of alabaster and marble, besides a great number of marble grave-stones. This cliurcli, three hundred feet long, eighty-nine broad, and sixty-four feet, two inches high, was burnt down in the great fire of London, since which, only the choir, or east end, has been rebuilt, willi a tower added to it : this tower is square and of considerable height, crowned with a light and handsome turret, neatly adorned : the interior is coiTespondent. There are very large galleries in the north, south, and west sides, for the use of the scholars of Clu-ist's Hospital, with a stately organ in the centi'e. Here the Spital sermons have been preached in the Easter week, since they were discontinued at St. Bride's, Fleet Street ; and an annual sermon is also preached on St. Matthew's day, before the Lord Mayor, Aldenuen, and Governors of Christ's Hospital, after which, the senior scholars deliver Latin and English orations in the great hall, prepai-atory to their being sent to the university. Chkist Church, Spitalfields, Was begun in 1723, as one of Queen Anne's fifty new churches, and finished in 17-29. It is situated on the south side of Church Street, and at its western extremity, its piincipal entrance facing Union Street. This is a stately edifice, built of stone, the height of the roof forty-one feet, and of the steeple 234. To the Doric portico there is a handsome ascent by a flight of steps. The steeple contains twelve bells, and excellent chimes, which perform four times a day. Sir Robert Ladbroke's monument, in this church, is a beautiful specimen of Mr. Flaxman's abilities. The tower has arched windows and niches, and, on its diminishing for the steeple, is supported by the heads of the under corners, which form a kind of buttresses ; from this part arises the base of the spire, with an arcade. Its comers are in the same manner supported with a sort of pyramidal butti-esses, ending in a point ; the spire terminates with a vase and fare. St. Mary, Somerset. This clnu-ch and tower are built of stone, with which it is also paved, having Uvo aisles; the roof within is flat, adorned with a cornice, and between the ■(\indows with fret work of cherubim, &c. It is finely wainscoted with oak, about ten feet high ; it has a neat wain- scot gallery at the west end, supported by four stone columns of the Tuscan order. There are also two spacious inner door-cases, and handsome pews; the pulpit is enriched with cherubim and the sound-board veneered. The tower is square, well-proportioned, and high, crowned at each comer with verj- handsome vases on pedestals, between which are torn tall pyramidal columns. london in the nineteenth century. 125 Church of St. Mary-le-jsow, Cheapside. ' ) Tliis churcli took its name from being dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and received the additional epithet of Le Bow from being the first church in London built upon stone arches, at that time called bows. It was founded in or before the reign of William tlie Conqueror, and was at fiist called New Marj' church, but afterwards obtained the name of De Arcubus, or Le Bow, in Westcheap. In the history of the ancient edifice, we find that, in the year 1271, a great number of people were destroyed, and many more maimed, by the falling of the steeple ; after which it remained without one for many years, but was gi-adually repaired by the donations and legacies of charitable persons ; so that, in 1469, the common-council ordained tliat Bow- bell should be rung at nine of the clock every night; and, in the year 1512, it v,as finished upon the old plan, with stone brought from Caen, in Normandy; that is to say, with arches and five lanterns, one at each corner and one at the top, upon the arches, which were intended to have been glazed, and to have lights placed in them every night, in the winter, to give light to the passengers in the street : and thus it continued till it was destroyed, with the other buildings in the city, by the fire in ] 666. The present noble structure was built by the great Sir Christopher Wren, and is chiefly admired for tlie elegance of its steeple, which is built entirely of Portland-stone, and was finished in 1680. It is extremely light in its appearance, and, though very high and fidl of openings, secm-e, by the geometrical proportion and lightness of its several parts. The length of tliis church is sixty-five feet, its breadth sixty-three feet, the height of the roof thirty-eight feet, and that of the steeple two hundred and twenty-five feet. The tower is square from the ground, and in this form rises to a considerable height, but with more ornament as it advances. The principal decoration of the lower part is the entrance, which is a noble, lofty, and well-proportioned arch, on two of the sides faced with a bold rustic, and raised on a plain solid course from the foundation. Within the arch is a portal of the Doric order, the frieze ornamented in tryglyphs, and with sculplm-e in the metopes : over this arch is an opening, with a small balcony, which answers to a window on the other face. The first stage is terminated by an elegant cornice, over which rises a plain coiu-se, whence a dial projects. Above this, in each face, is a large arched window, with coupled Ionic pilasters at the sides near the corners. The cornice over the windows supports an elegant balustrade, with attic pillars over the Ionic columns, supporting turrets, each composed of four handsome scrolls, which join at the top, where arc placed urns with flames. From this part the steeple rises circular. There is a plain course to the height of half the scrolls, and upon this is raised a circular range of Corinthian columns, while the body of the steeple is continued round and plain witliin them. These support a second balustrade, with very large scrolls, extending from it to the body of the steeple. Above these is placed a series of composite columns, and from the entablature rises another set of scrolls, supporting the spire, which rests upon four balls, and is terminated by a globe, Z E 12(5 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. whence rises a vane, in the form of a dragon. In tliis steeple are twelve bells, said to be superior in harmony to any set in England. The author of the Critical Review of the Public Buildings, says, " The steeple of Bow- church is a master-piece in a peculiar style of building : it is, beyond question, as perfect as human imagination can contiive or execute ; and, till we see it outdone, we shall hardly think it to be equalled." In digging the foundation of tliis church, Sir Christopher Wren discovered that part of the ancient Roman colony which ran from the Thames northward. On opening the ground a foundation appeared, firm enough for the intended fabric, which, on inspection, was found to consist of the remains of a temple, or chinch, of Roman workmanship, entirely buried under the level of the present street. On this he determined to erect the new building; and as the old church stood about forty feet backward from the high street, by purchasing the gi-ound of one private house, in front, not then rebuilt, he was enabled to bring the steeple forward, so as to range with the houses in Cheapside. Here, to his great surprise, he sunk about eighteen feet through made ground, and then imagined that he was come to the natural soil and hard gravel ; but, on farther inspection, it appeared to be a Roman causeway, of rough stone, close and well rammed with Roman brick and rubbish at the bottom, all linnly cemented. On this causeway, which was four feet thick, Sir Christopher determined to lay the foundation of the tower and steeple, as being most proper to bear a weighty and lofty structure. Some alarm having aiisen as to the safety of the latter, it has, within these few years, undergone a complete repair. Church of St. Mary Magdalen, Old Fi.sh Street. On the north side of Knight-rider Street, at the west comer of the Old Change, stands the parish church of St. Mary Magdalen, Old Fish-street ; so called from its dedication to that saint, and its ancient situation in the fish-market, the principal part 'of which was in that street. This church was a vicarage, in tlie tenure of the canons of St. Paul's, in the year 1181 ; but for some ages past it has been a rectory, in the gift of the dean and chapter of St. Paul's. The old edifice was destroyed by the fire of London; and the present structure was erected in the year 1685. This is a small but well-proportioned church, built with stone, and enlightened by a single series of arched windows, each ornamented with a cherub and scrolls, supporting a cornice which runs round the building ; but these windows are so high from the ground that the doors open completely under them. The tower is divided into two stages, in the upper of which is a large window on each side. From the top of the tower the work diminishes in the manner of high steps, on each side ; and on the top of these is a turret, with a very short spire, on wliich is placed a vase, with flames. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 127 To this parish is annexed that of St. Gregory, the church of whicli stood at the south-west corner of St. Paul's cathedral. It is a rectory of very ancient foundation, and took its name from Pope Gregory the Great, who sent Austin, the monk, to convert the English nation to Christianity. The patronage of it is in the dean and chapter of St. Paul's, who are both patrons and ordinaries. After its destraction by the fire of London, the ground on which it stood was laid into St. Paul's charch-yard. Coopers' Hall, Basinghall Street, Is a stately well-built edifice of brick, nearly opposite to Sambrook court, in Basinghall Street. The interior forms a very handsome room, wainscoted to the height of foui-teen feet and paved with marble, and was used for the dra\ving of the lotten^-. The company was incorporated in 1501, by letters patent of King Henry VII., under the title of " The Masters, Wardens, and Assistants of the company of Coopers of London and suburbs thereof;" and in the succeeding reign was empowered, by an act cf parliament, to search and gauge all beer, ale, and soap vessels, witliin the city of London and two miles round its suburbs, for which they were allowed a farthing for each cask. They are governed by a master, three wardens, and twenty assistants. Apothecaries' Hall. Within the precinct of Blackfriars, on the east side of Water-lane, stands Apothecaries' HaD. This is a handsome building, with a pair of gates in front that lead into a paved court ; at the upper end of which is a flight of stairs leading into the haU-room, which is built \\ith brick and stone, and adorned with columns of the Tuscan order. The ceiling of the coiu-t- room and of the hall are elegantly ornamented with fret-work ; the wall is wainscoted fourteen feet liigh, and adorned with the bust of Dr. Gideon Delaun, apothecarj^ to king James I., and with several pieces of exceedingly good painting ; among which are portraits of king James I., and of the gentleman who procured their charter, and who had been obliged to leave France for religion. In this building are two large laboratories, one for chemical and the other for galenical preparations ; where great quantities of the best medicines are prepared for the use of apothecaries and others ; particularly for the surgeons of the royal navy, who here ftuTiish their chests with all useful and necessary medicines. This company was incorporated at first with the grocers, in the year 1606 ; but, such a connection not answering the purposes of their incorporation, they were separated by another charter granted by king James I. in the year 1617, and incorporated by the name of " The Masters, Wardens, and Society of the art and mystery of Apothecaries of the city of London :" at which time there were no more than 104 apothecaries' shops within the city and suburbs of London. J28 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Tho members of this company, wlio by divers acts of parliament are exempt from ward and parish offices, are governed by a master, two wardens, and twenty-one assistants. Church of St. Sepulchre, Snow Hill. This chiu-ch, which is so dedicated in commemoration of our Saviour's sepulchre or grave at Jerusalem, is now a spacious building, but not so large as of old time, part of the site of it being let out upon a building lease. It is supposed to have been founded about the year 1100, at which time a paiticular devotion was paid to the holy sepulchre; and was so de- cayed in the reign of Edwai'd IV. as to require rebuilding. Roger, bishop of Salisbury, in the reign of Henry I. gave the patronage of this church to the prior and convent of St. Bar- tholomew, in West Smithfield, who established a perpetual vicarage in it, and held it till their dissolution, when it fell to the crown. King James I., in the seventh year of his reign, granted the rectory and its appurtenances, and the advowson of this vicarage, to Francis Philips, and others ; after which the parishioners purchased the rectory and its appurte- nances, and beld them in fee-farm of the crown. And tiro advowson of the vicarage was purchased by the president and fellows of St. John Baptist CoUege, Oxon, who continue patrons thereof. The present structure was much damaged by the fire of London in 1666. The out^i'ard walls and tower were, however, capable of reparation ; and the middle aisle of the church was at the same time made with an arched roof, which was not so originally. This church, in its present situation, measiues 126 feet in length, exclusive of the broad passage at the west end ; the breadth, exclusive of the north chapel, is fifty-eight feet. The height of the roof in the middle aisle is thii-ty-five feet ; and the height of the steeple, to the top of the pinnacles, is 146 feet. The body of the church is cnfightened with a row of very lai'ge Gothic windows, ^nth butti^esses between, over which runs a sfight cornice ; and on the tjp a plain and substantial battlement work, in the style of the public buildings in the reign of Edward IV. The steeple is a plain square tower, crowned with four pinnacles. CuuRCH OF St. Olave, Tooley Street. Though it cannot be ascertained at what time a cliiurch was first situated on this spot, yet it is mentioned as early as the j'ear 1 28 1 . However, part of the old'church falling down in 1 736, and the rest being in a ruinous condition, the paiisliioners applied to parliament for a power to rebuild it, which being granted, the remains of the old building were taken down in the year 1737, and the present stracture finished in 1739. It consists of a plain body, strengthened with rustic quoins at the corners ; the door is well-proportioned, without ornament, and the windows ai-e placed in three series ; the lowest is upright, but considerably broad ; those above them circular, and the others on the roof are large and semi-circular. The tower con- sists of three stages, the uppermost of which is considerably diminished: intliisis the clock, LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUKY. 129 and in the stages below are large windows. The top of the tower is surrounded by a plain substantial balustrade, and the whole has an air of plainness and simplicity. Tliis parish is a rectory, the patronage of which is in the gift of the crown. St. Bartholomew's Hospital, West Smithfield. On the east side of Smithfield is the magnificent hospital of St. Bartholomew, which ap- pears to have been the first establishment of this natui-e in London, having been founded in the year 1102, by Habere, minstrel to Henry I., who, quitting his gay life, founded a priory of black canons, wliich he dedicated to St. Bartholomew, and became himself the first prior. He afterwards obtained fi-om the hing a piece of waste ground, on which he built an hos- pital for a master, brethren, and sisters, and for the relief of the diseased and maimed poor, which he placed under the care of the priory. Both the piiory and hospital were sun-endered to Henry VHI., who, in" the last year of his reign, refounded the latter, and endowed it vpith an annual revenue of 500 marks, on condition that the city should pay an equal sum ; which proposal being accepted, the new foimdation was incorporated by the name of " The Hospital of the Mayor, Commonalty, and Citizens of London, Governors for the Poor, called Litde St. Baitholomews, near West Smithfield." Since this time the hospital has received considerable benefactions from cha- ritable persons, by which means the governors have 'been enabled to admit all indigent persons maimed by accident, at any hour of the day or night, without previous recommend- ation ; and the sick on Thui'sdays, on which days a committee of governors sit to examine persons applying for admission. The patients, whether sick or maimed, are provided with lodging, food, medicine, and attendance, and have the advice and assistance of some of the most eminent physicians and surgeons in the kingdom. Notwithstanding the old building escaped the dieadful fire in 1666, yet the chief part of its revenues being in houses, the hospital was gi'eatly injured by that calamity. In the year 1729, the hospital became so ruinous thatthere appeared an absolute necessity for rebuilding it ; and a subscription was entered into by many of the governors and other charitable persons, among whom was Dr. Ratcliffe, for defraying the expense, upon a plan then pre- pared, containing four detached piles of stone building, to be connected by gateways, and to form a quadrangle. The fiist stone of this building was laid on the 9th of June, 1730, by Sir- George Brocas, the lord mayor, in the presence of several aldermen and governors ; and the eastern side of the square, which completed the whole, being finished in 1770, it is now one of the most pleasing structures in London, when viewed from the area within, which it surrounds, and where only it can be seen to advantage. That part which opens to Smithfield, and which may be esteemed the principal fi-ont, is allotted for the public business of the hospital. It contains a lai-ge haU for the general courts of the governors; a counting house for the meetings of committees; rooms for examining, admitting, and dischaiging patients ; with other necessary offices. In this pai-t 2X. 130 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. of the building is a stair-case painted and given by the late Mr. Hogarth, consisting of two pictures, representing the good Samaritan and the pool of Bethesda ; which, for truth of colouring and expression are thought to equal any thing of the kind in Europe. In the hall is a full-length portrait of Henry VIII., and another of Dr. Ratcliffe, who be- queathed ^500 per annum to the hospital, for the improvement of the diet, and £100 per annum to purchase linen for the patients. There is also a fine portrait of Percival Pott, esq., many years an eminent surgeon to this hospital, painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The centre of the great quadrangle has been ornamented with a curious cylindrical pump enclosed within a handsome iron railing, for the use of the hospital. The water is drawn from a very deep spring on the spot, evidently connected with another spring, which supplies Whitbread's brewery in Chiswell Street, because when much water was drawn at either place, the other failed. Stock Exchange, Capel Court, Is opposite the east entrance to the Bank, at the upper end of Capel Court, which derived its name from the house of Sir William Capel, a lord mayor in 1503. This is a neat plain building, fi-onted witli stone to the attic storj-, which is of brick, and erected in 1801, by Mr. James Peacock, the architect. The expense was defrayed by a subscription among the principal stock-brokers of £50 transferable shares. No person is allowed to transact business here unless ballotted annually by a committee : persons so chosen subscribe fifteen guineas each. Under the clock, at the south end, is a tablet, exhibiting the names of such de- faulters as have not been able or willing to make their payments good, for the piu-chase or transfer of stock, and who are not allowed to become members any more. On the east side, a recess is appropriated for the commissioners for the redemption of the national debt, who make their purchases four times a week. The hours of business here are from ten to four ; and there are tlu'ee entrances besides that in Capel Court. King's Bench Prison, St. George's Fields. At the south-west corner of Blackman Street, in the road to the Obelisk, St. George's Fields, is situated the King's Bench Prison, for debtors, and every one sentenced by the Court of King's Bench ; but those who can purchase the liberties have tlie benefit of walking through Blackman Street, a part of the Borough, and in St. George's Fields. This building is surrounded by a very high wall. Prisoners in any other jail may remove hither by Habeas Corpus. This prison contains at least 300 rooms : the number of people confined here is greater ; and decent accommodations are much more expensive than in the Fleet- london in the nineteenth century. 131 Sadler's Wells' Theatre, Spa Fields. Neax the east end of the New River Reservoir is a small summer theatre, called Sadler's Wells ; the amusements of which, like those of all the minor theatres, are limited to the representation of burlettas, ballets, pantomimes, and various feats of activity. This place of entertainment originated in the salubrious qualities of a well, formerly famed for the extra- ordinary cures effected by it, in certain diseases, but which was filled up, by the authority of government at the Refomiation, to check the impositions of the priests of the priory of Clerkenwell, who extorted money from the people, by making them believe that the virtues of the water proceeded from the efficacy of their prayers. The concourse of visitors had induced the proprietors to have music at their house, and concerts were constantly performed there : but the well being closed, the place declined, the music ceased, and the virtues of the water were forgotten. This once celebrated well was again discovered in the year 1683, by one of the labourers of Mr. Sadler, who had rebuilt the music house there, and renewed the former concerts ; since which time it has continued to be opened, with per- formances of different descriptions, according to the talents or the taste of its managers. The present building, wholly of brick, was erected in 1765, and has since undergone many alterations. Under the excellent management of Mr. Chaides Dibdin, the performances here have been improved beyond any precedent in places of this description. The inside has been lately rebuilt at the expense of £'1500, in a very splendid style, forming a neat semi-circle, and the aquatic exhibitions produce a very striking efll'ct. West India Docks, Isle of Dogs. If, with natural advantages alone, the Thames is of the greatest importance to the City of London, to what immense extent must its value be increased by the modern improvements on it ! The great increase of trade in the port of London required additional convenience for loading and unloading vessels, and hence the various extensive docks which have been constnicted on the north banks of the Thames were undertaken. Those appropriated for the use of the West India trade are wholly on the Isle of Dogs ; a name given to it on account of the noise the King's hounds made when the court was kept at Greenwich. The northern one is for receiving loaded vessels inwards, covering an extent of thirty acres, and affording accommodation for from 2 to 300 sliips, such as are used in that trade, at one time. The southern one, which is appropriated to loading vessels outwards, occupies a space of twenty-four acres. The openings into these docks are at Blackwall and Limehouse, and there is an extensive range of wai'ehouses all round them for storing West India produce, the whole of which must be landed here. South from these docks, and in a line parallel to them, is a canal across the Isle of Dogs, by which ships are enabled to avoid a very circuitous passage round that peninsula, in their course up and do\ni the river, on payment of a small sum in proportion to their bulk. 132 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. St. Katherine Docks, Tower. On the site of the present great commercial establishment, which, as docks, afford facilities and advantages of the first importance to the metropolis, formerly stood the collegiate church and hospital of St. Katherine, situated on the east side of tlie Tower, in a small open space called St. Katherine's Squaxe : it belonged originally to an hospital founded m 1148, by Matilda, consort to King Stephen. The old foundation was dissolved and refounded, iu 1273, by Queen Eleanor, relict of Henry III. Queen PhOippa, consort to Edward III., was a great benefactress to this hospital, as was King Henry VI., who not only confirmed all the former grants, and made several additional ones, but gave an ample charter to it. It was exempt from the jurisdiction of the Bishop of London, till its suppression by Henry VIII., soon after which, Edward VI. annexed it to that diocese ; leaving the patronage, however, ui the hands of the Queens of England, according to the di.sposition of its re- foundi-ess. The church, which was a very handsome Gothic building, and collegiate, has a master, whose situation is a valuable sinecure, and three brethren, who have forty pounds each ; three sisters, who have twenty pounds ; and ten beads-women, who have eight pounds per annum each ; and six poor scholars. This church being puUed down to make way for the present docks, a splendid builduig iu lieu of it, has been erected in the Regent's Park, of which an engraving and description is given in the other volume of the present work. Church of St. Clement, East Cheap. In Clement's lane, at the western extremity of Eastcheap, stands the parish church of St. Clement, Eastcheap. This church was dedicated to St. Clement, disciple of St. Peter, the Apostle, who was ordained Bishop of Rome in the year 93 ; and it received the addition of Eastcheap from its situation, and to distinguish it from other churches dedicated to the same saint. The date of its foundation is lost ; but William de Southlee appears to have been rector of it prior to the year 1309 ; and, before the suppression of religious houses, it was in the gift of the abbot and convent of St. Peter's, Westminster. But, in the first year of her reign, Queen Mary gave the advowson thereof to the Bishop of London, whose successors have continued pati-ons of it from that time to the present. The old church was birmt down in 1666, and the present building was erected in 1686. It is a neat, though plain, structtn-e, of the Composite order, having a square tower, finished with a balustrade round the top. The length of this church is sixty-foiu- feet, its breadth forty feet, the height of the roof thirty-four feet, and that of the tower eighty-eight feet. It is a rectory, and the living was considerably augmented by the parish of St. Martin Orgar being annexed to it. london in the nineteenth century. ] 33 Church of St. Bknnet Fink, Thri;adneedle .Street. This church is so called from its dedication to St. Benedict, an Italian saint, and founder of the order of Benedictine monks ; and it received the additional name of Fink from one Robert Fink, who rebuilt it. It is of ancient foundation, and, though at present only a curacy, yet was originally a rectory ; John de Branketree being rector thereof, before the year 1323. The patronage oi'this church, which was formerly in the family of the Nevils, falling to the crown. King Edward IV. gave it to the Dean and Chapter of Windsor ; and, the im- propriation being in the said dean and chapter, it is supplied by one of the canons, who is licensed by the Bishop of London. The old chm-ch being destroyed by fire, in 1666, the present building was erected in 1673. The body is of an elUptical foi-m, enlightened by large arched windows, which reach to the roof. This is encompassed with a balustrade, and crowned with a lanteni ; a dome rises upon the whole extent of the tower, and on its top is a turret. The church-yard was given to the parisliioners, as a free burial place, without any expense. Ironmongers' Hall, Fenchurch Street. On the north side of Fenchurch-street is a veiy noble hall, erected in the year 1748, by the Ironmongers, for transacting their afiairs as a body coiporate. Tliis edifice is entirely fronted with stone, and the whole lower story is wrought in inastic. The centre part of the building projects a little ; and in this are a large arched entrance and two windows, with two others on each side. Over this rustic stoiy rises the superstructure, which has a light nistic at the comers, to keep up a correspondence with the rest of the building : the part which projects is ornamented with four Ionic pilasters, coupled, but with a large interco- lumniation. In the middle is a very noble Venetian window, and over it a circulai- one. In each space, between the pUasters, is a smaller window, with an angidar pediment ; and over these are also circular' ones ; but the sides have arched windows, with square ones over them. The central part is crowned with a pediment, supported by these pilasters, and in its plane are carved the arms of the company, with handsome decorations in relievo. The rest of the building is terminated by a balustrade crowned with vases. The Ironmongers' company was incorporated by charter from King Edward IV. in the year 1464, and is the tenth of the twelve principal companies in this city. It was incor- porated by the name and style of "The master and keepers, or wardens, and commonalty of the ait or mystery of Ironmongers of London." And, by virtue of the said charter, the government of this fraternity is now in a master, two wardens, and a court of assistants, which consists of the whole livery, and represents the commonalty or whole freedom. 2 M 134 london in the nineteenth century. Flket Prison, Farringdon Strket. On the east side of what was called Fleet Market, but now Fairingdon Street, is the Fleet Prison. The body, inclosed with houses, and very high walls, is a handsome lofty _ l)rick building, of a considerable length, with galleries in every story, wliich reach from one end of the house to the other. On each side of these galleries are rooms for the prisoners. All manner of provisions are brought into this piison every day, and cried as in the public streets. Here also is a cofi'ee-house, a tap, and an ordinary, with a large open area lor exercise. This prison is properly that belonging to the Courts of Chancery and Common Pleas; and the keeper is called the Warden of the Fleet, a place of considerable confidence and emolument, arising from the fees, the rent of the chambers, &c. Probably the most authentic statement respecting the economy of this prison is to be found in the evidence of Nicolas Nixon, Esq., delivered before the Committee of the House of Conniions, he being then the Deputy and sole Acting Warden. The other officers within the prison, besides his clerk, were tlnee turnkeys, one watchmen, and one scavenger, all paid by the wardens. Nothing can be publicly sold within the jjrison without th.e authority of the Warden or liis Dcjiuty. The beer and .ale coming into tlie prison and sold at the tap are on the credit of the Depnty. The license for selling wine has been many years discontinued. The sale of all spirituous liquors within the prison is prohibited by Act of Parliament. Tliere is a penalty on their admission. The cook and the racket-master, being officers of the prisoners, are elected by them ; they are elected twice a year. The priority of chummage, or admission to rooms in the prison, is by rotation, or seniority, among such prisoners as have paid their entrance fees. A few among the very oldest prisoners ai-e exempted fi-om chummage, i. e. from having any others put into their rooms. Wlien a prisoner cannot pay for his clearance out of prison, the fees ai-e always paid by some of the charitable societies. Prisoners who are supersedable have their rooms taken from them. The distinction between the Master's side and the Common side is, that lor the former the entrance fee is paid ; for the latter no fee at all. Prisoners who swear they are not worth five pounds in the world, are allowed the benefit of the begging grate, and take it in rotation, each man twenty-four hoiu-s. Besides this, there are sometimes charitable donations, which are distributed among the very poorest prisoners. The ^500 per aun., granted by the act, is distributed among the poor prisoners indiscriminately. Some of the poor prisoners wait upon the wealtliy ones, and gain some relief that way. The room rents on the Master's side are fifteen pence each ; they are in general paid for weekly, but a prisoner cannot be turned out of a room for non- payment, unless a quarter's rent be accunudated. The racket-masters, who are paid so much per game, make about a guinea a week each, by their situations. The j^astime lias been approved by the Court as healthful. At eleven, oil, candles, and fires, ai'e ordered to be put out in the coffee-house and tap ; but riots and irregularities are frequentl}' complained of. E^ery thing practicable is done LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 135 to repress those. Since the passing of what is called the "Three Months Act," the prisoners are less moral than they were before; for prisoners in general contrive to procure money to maintain them during the three months, and they are less careful of their behaviour. Strangers are obliged to quit the prison between ten and half-past ten o'clock. Two clubs ai'e established in the prison ; one on Monday nights in the tap-room ; the other on Thursday nights in tlie coffee-room. Strangers are admissible to both. The prison is well secured against fire, all the rooms but those on the top gallery being arched with brick. Tlie chapel is very badly attended ; there are no means of enforcing the nile for the attendance of the prisoners. The prison gates are locked during Divine Service • at other times, upon an average, the key tiuns about once in a minute. The number of prisoners within the walls, and in the rules for tlie tlien last three years, averaged about three lumdred. The Court of Common Pleas sends an officer of their own four times a year to visit the prison, immediately before each term. The circumference of the rules is about three-fourths of a mile. Prisoners ai-e entitled to this on giving sufficient security to the warden. There are day rules in Term time, every day the Court sits. The ordinary expence of a day's rule to a prisoner is two pounds seven shillings for the whole, if the charge be under £500 ; in addition to this, four shillings and sixpence are paid for each day. Several of the prisoners live most luxmiously within the walls, as well as in the rides, and this they all seem inclined to do, as far as their means will admit. The ground on which this prison, and the buildings up to Skinner-Street, now stand, formed the eastern sliore of the Town Ditch, denominated Fleet Ditch, wliich was navigable for small vessels nearly as high as Holbom Bridge, before the Fire of London. In 1733 it was completely arched over between that place and the south end of Fleet Mai-ket. Still, on the south side of Fleet-Street, a " genuine and muddy ditch" was scarcely concealed from the public eye by a range of stone buildings, consisting of the watcli-house, &c., for St. Bride's parish, built upon an arch over the ditch. The Obelisk, at the north end of New Bridge Street, erected in the mayoralty of John Willies, Esq., in 1775, marks the extent of this ditch till that period, when it was completely filled up, and when the fine range of buildings between that and the water side rose in its stead. 'S" Foundling Hospital, L.vmb's-Conduit Street. The Foundling hospital is a handsome building, and consists of two large" wings directly opposite to each other, one of which is for the boys, and the other for the girls. Thev are built of brick, in a plain, but regular, substantial, and convenient manner, and with hand- some piazzas. At the farthest end is the chapel, which is joined to the wings by an arch on each side, and is very elegant within. In the front is a large piece of ground, on each side whereof is a colonnade of great length, which also extends towards the gates that are double, with a massy pier between them, so that coaches may pass and repass at the same time. These colonnades are now enclosed, and contain ranges of workshops, where the children are taught to spin, weave, and exercise other handicrafts. The large area between J 36 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. the gates and the hospital is adorned with grass plats, gravel walks, and lamps erected upon handsome posts ; besides which tliere are two convenient gardens. In erecting tlicse buildings, particular care was taken to render them neat and substantiah without any costly decorations ; but the first wing of the hospital was scarcely inhabited when several eminent masters in painting, carving, and other of the polite arts, were pleased to contribute many elegant ornaments, which are preserved as monuments of the abilities and charitable benefactions of the respective artists. Among these are several fine paintings by Hogarth, Hayman, Wilson, Gainsborough, &c. The altar-piece in the chapel, wliich is most beautiiiilly executed, is accounted one of Mr. West's best productions. It was painted for Macklin's Bible, and the subject is, " Except ye become as little cliildrcn," &c. The first organ was presented by Mr. Handel, and was rendered particularly useful in the infancy of the institution, by that gentleman perfonning on it at certain times for the benefit of the charity; but this organ having become defective, through time and use, a new one was put up in its stead. Church of St. George, Hanover Square. West of St. James's parish is that of St. George, Hanover Square, the church of which stands in Great George Street. This parish was taken out of St. Martin's in the Fields. The commissioners for building the fifty new churches appointed by virtue of an act of parliament passed in the reign of Queen Anne, observing the want of one in this part of the town, on account of the great increase of buildings and inhabitants, erected this elegant structure, which was finished in 1724, and in compliment to the reigning monaixh was dedicated to St. George the Martyr. It has a plain body, with an elegant portico; the columns are Corinthian, of a large diameter, and the pediment has an acroteria, but without further ornament. The tower is elegantly adorned at the comers, with coupled Corinthian columns that are very lofty; these are crowned with an entablature, which, at each corner, supports two vases ; and over these the tower still rises, till it is tenninated by a dome, crowned with a turret, that supports a ball, over which is a vane. It is a rector)', the patronage of which is in the Bishop of London. The groimd on which this church stands was given by Lieutenant General WiUiam Stewart, who also bequeathed four thousand pounds to the parish, towards erecting and en- dowing a charity school. Church of St. George, Bloomsbury. To the east and north of St. Giles's parish is that of St, George, Bloomsbury, the church of which stands in Hart-street. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURV. 137 This is one of the fifty new churches appointed to be built by act of parhament witliin Die bills of mortality. The name of St. George was given to it in honour of his late majesty ; and it received the additional epithet of Bloomsbury from its situation in the ancient village of Lomesbnry, corruptly called Bloomsbnry, to distinguish it from others of the same name. It is likewise farther distinguished by standing north and south. Mr. Walpole calls this building a master-piece of absurdity. The portico on the south side is of the Corinthian order, and makes a very good figure in the street, but has no affinity mth the church, which is plain and heavy, and might have corresponded with a Tuscan portico. The tower and steeple on the west side is a very extraordinary structure. On the top, standing on a round pedestal or altar, is a colossal statue of George I., supported by a square pyramid ; at the corners of which, near the base, are a lion and unicorn, alter- nately, the first witli his heels in the air, and between them are festoons : these animals, being very large, aie injudiciously placed over very small columns, which makes them appear monsters. The under part of the tower is not less heavy than the church, but in style is wholly unconnected ^-ith it. This church was erected at the pubhc expense, and consecrated in January, 1731. A district, for its parish, was, by authority of parliament, taken out of that of St. Giles, and the sum of three thousand pounds was given towards the support of its rector, to which one thousand two hundred and fifty pounds being added, by the inhabitants of St. Giles's palish, both sums were ordered to be laid out in the purchase of lands, tenements, &c., in fee simple, as a perpetual fund for the maintenance of the rector and his successors ; but the poor of this pai'ish, and that of St. Giles in the Fields, are to be maintained by the joint assessment of both parishes, in the same manner as before their being divided. This church is a rectory, in the gift of the crown, but cannot be held in commendam ; and all licenses to that effect are made void by the act of parliament for separating this parish from St. Giles's- The following epitaph, intended for the architect of this church, is a severe but humorous critique on his bad taste ; — "Lie heavy on him earth, for he Laid many a heavy load on thee." Canonbury Tower, Islington. Canonbury House, the manorial residence, was originally built for a mansion bouse for the priors of St. Bartholomew. Tliis edifice was of considerable extent, covering nearly the whole site of ground now called Canonbury Place, and having a small park, with garden grounds and domestic offices. A large old house, having a tower of brick, about seventeen feet square, and sixty feet high, which, both externally and within doors, retains much of its primitive appearance, together with a considerable part of the waU that encompassed the park and gaiden-ground, form at this time the most prominent remains of this once splendid dwelling. Z N J 38 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Stow says, " William Bolton (who was prior of St. Bartholomew) builded anew the manor of Canonbury at Islington, which belonged to the canons of that house." Mr. Lysons tliinlis it probable that this j)art of the premises was built by some of the owners of Canonbury, since tlie Reformation ; but from Bolton's rebus (a bolt in a tun) appearing in several parts of the wall, originally connected with the Old Brick Tower, and which is evidently of the same materials and workmanship, there can be no doubt of its having been erected by liim. Part of this wall still incloses the ground attached to the Canonbury Tavern on the East, dividing it from the open fields, and on the north by the side of Hopping Lane. The western wall branched off" from the above, somewhat behind the site of Compton Terrace, towards Canonbury Lane. For the erection of the original mansion house we may, without doubt, refer to the date 1.352 (1.362) inscribed on the building. The most considerable part of tlie old mansion appears to have been much altered by Sir .Tohn Speccer, who came to reside here in the year 1599, previously to which time it was probably rented of him by various individuals. It has been many years divided into several houses, and forms a considerable part of the white-fronted buildings in Canonbury Place. Two of these houses contain some interesting remains of ancient grandeur. Church of St. Mary, Isi-inrton. This church is situate on the east side of the Upper Street, and nearly in the centime of the village. Though perhaps not foimed according to strict architectural rule, it is allowed to be a very light and handsome edifice. It is built with brick, strengthened and adorned with stone gi'oins, cornices, &c., in plain rustic. It contains a nave, chancel, and two aisles, and is adorned at the west end witli an elegant spire of Portland stone. The floor is vaulted con- siderably above the level of the church-yard. The west door is ornamented with a portico of a semicircular form, consisting of a dome, supported by four Tuscan columns, to which there is an ascent of five steps, aiTanged also semicircularly. The two side doors are from a Vetnivian model, and have a very neat appearance. At the east end is a Venetian window, divided into three compaitments, by pillars of the Ionic order ; but the intercolumns are filled up with stone, and covered on the inside with the painted decorations of the altar. The roof is spanned from the walls of the church without the support of pillais, and is covered with Westmoreland slates. The steeple consists of a tower, rising square to the height of eighty-seven feet, terminated by a cornice supporting four vases at the comers ; upon this is placed an octagonal balus- trade, from within which rises the base of the spire in the same fonn, supporting eight Corinthian double columns, with their shafts v\Tought in rustic. Upon these the dome rests, and from its crown the spire is continued with perforations, and is terminated by a ball and *ane. The ceiling of the church was originally vaulted, and disposed in parabolical compart- ments, having a circle in the centre, and was enriched with mouldings of wreathed flowers, &c., in stucco. The galleries are supported by Tuscan pillars, and are painted on the front LONDON IN THK NINETEENTH CENTURY. 139 iu imitation of oak wainscot. They contain between sixty and seventy pews, framed of fir, and at the west end is a very handsome and good toned organ, in a mahogany case, placed here in 1772. It was opened by Dr. Worgan. The pews iu the area of the building, which were originally ninety-one in number, toge- ther with the screen wliich divides the church from the vestibule, are framed of oak wains- cot ; and in the christening pew is a neat marble font. The pulpit, reading desk, &c., are of mahogany, and the sounding boai'd is supported by two Corinthian ccjlurans. The altar- piece is composed also of the same wood, divided into compartments by pillars and their en- tablature of the Doric order. The Decalogue, &c., is painted in golden letters on a black ground ; and above the pediment, in the place of the window, is a chaste and appropriate painting of the Annunciation, having on each side emblems of the law and the gospel in chiaro-'scuro. These were painted by Mr. Nathaniel Clarkson, a parishioner. The church throughout exhibits an elegant plainness, but the beauty of the interior has been much im- paired by some alterations which were made in 1818, when the building was newly roofed. The ceiling is far inferior, in construction and design, to the one which it was thought necessary to remove, and the filling the lobby with pews, and thereby preventing access to the galleries and the middle of the church from the side doors, has dai-kened and encum- bered the entrance, and is attended with some inconvenience to the congregation. In the Tower is a good peal of eight bells ; the six which were in the old church being recast in 1774, and two smaller ones added by subscription to complete the octave. The tenor weighs sixteen cwt., and was recast in 1808, in order to improve the tone. The Old Queen's Head, Islington. The Old Queen's head public house, lately pulled down and rebuilt, is described by an antiquarian, " as one of the most perfect specimens of ancient domestic architectiu'e remaining in the neighbourhood of London, or perhaps in the whole kingdom. It is a strong wood and plaster building, consisting of three lofty stories projecting over each other in front, and forming bay windows, supported by brackets and caryatides of a grotesque fonn carved in wood. The centre projects several feet beyond the other part of the building, and fonns a commodious porch, to which tliere is a descent of several steps. This is sup- ported in front by two carj'atides of carved oak, crowned with Ionic scrolls, standing one on each side the entrance. The floor of the fi'ont parlour is four feet below the surface of the highway, though a tradition prevails that tlie house originally was entered by an ascent of several steps. This, indeed, is not improbable, when the antiquity of the building is considered, and the vast accumulation of matter upon the road in the course of several centuries : add to this, that the new river, which passes under the liighway in front of the house, has, in the foundation of its banks, and the turning an arch over it, occasioned a. considerable rise in this place." 140 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. " This ancient fabric, like most of tlie old buildings in the parish of Islington, lias pa- nelled wainscots of oak, and stuccoed ceilings : the latter in the parlour is ornamented with dolphins, cherubs, acorns, &c., surrounded by a wreathed border of fruit and foliage. Near the centre of the ceiling is the medallion of a Roman head, crowned with bays ; also a small shield, containing the initials ' I. M.,' surrounded by cherubim and glory. The chimney piece is supported by two figures carved in stone, hung with festoons, &c. The stone slab over the fire-place exhibits the story of Danac and Actaeon, in relief, with muti- lated figui-es of Venus, Bacchus, and Plenty." Boar's Head, Great Ea.stcheap. On the south side of this street, and near St. Michael's Lane, was the Boar's Head Tavem, celebrated as the place where the inimitable Shakspeare laid some of his best scenes of Henry IV. The original edifice was destroyed in the great fire, but it was rebuilt on the same site, with a stone sign let into the wall. A few years ago the tavern was pulled down, and two houses built upon its site, but the original sign still exists in the front of one of the houses. Talbot Inn, Southwark. On the east side of tlie High Street is the Tabard (corrupted to Talbot) inn. In wliich was the residence of the abbots of Hyde, near Winchester, whenever they came to the me- tropolis to attend Uieii' duty in pai'liament. This imi was also the place of rendezvous for the pilgrims on their journeys to pay adora- tion to the shrine of St. Thomas-a-Becket, at Canterburj- : Chaucer minutely describes their mode of behaviour at the inn, and the circumstances of their progress. After commencing his prologue with the time of tlie year and the state of the atmosphere when the ' yong Sunn liath in the Ram his halve corns yrunn,' &c., the poet proceeds : Befell, that in that season, on thai day, In Southwerk, at the Tabbeid as I lay ; Ready to wendin on my pilgrimage To Canterbury, vpjth devote corage, At night wer come into that hosiery, Wele nine and twenty in a company Of sundrie folk, by aventure yfall In felaship and pilgrimes wer they all; That toward Canterbury wouldin ride. The chambers and stablis werin wide, And well we werin expid at the best, &c. He then introduces to view the various personages who composed the cavalcade, viz. the knight, the squire, the squire's yeoman, the prioress, the monk, a friar, a merchant, the clerk LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. ]41 of Oxenford, the seijeaunt-at-law, the frankelan (freeholder), haberdasher, &c., the coke, the shipman, the doctor of phisick, the wife of Bath, the parsonnc, the plowman, the millare, the manciple (piUTeyor of viands), the reve (bailifl"), the sompnour (apparitor), and the pardoner (seller of pardons) The state, aray, and number, and the cause Why that asseniblid was thir corapanie In Soufhwerke, at this gentil hostelrie ; Thai hight the Tabbarde, fastii by the Bell. Temple Bar. [See Vignette to Titled This is esteemed a very handsome gate, where fonnerly posts, rails, and a chain only, terminated the city bounds, as also at Holborn, Smithficld, and Whitechapel Bars. After- wards a house of timber was erected across the street, with a naiTow gateway and southern postern. The fire of London, however, having introduced a system of order and magni- ficence in the public buildings. Temple Bar offered an object for the exercise of Sir Chris- topher Wren's abilities. The centre is a broad gateway, sufficient for the passing of two caniages ; the sides are furnished with convenient posterns for foot passengersi The whole is constructed of Portland stone, with a rustic basement, surmounted by the Corinthian order. Over the gateway, on the east side, two niches contain the statues of Queen Eliza- beth and James I., with the arms of England over the key-stone. On the west side are the statues of Charles I. and Charles II., in Roman liabits. They are all the work of Bushnel. On the east side was an inscription, now nearly obliterated, to the following purport : " Erected in the year 1670, Sir Samuel Starling, Mayor ; continued in tlie year 1671, Sii- Richard Ford, Lord Mayor ; and finished in the year- 1672, Sir George Waterman, Lord Mayor. This gate, on account of its publicity, was made a place of exposure for the heads of traitors, who had forfeited their lives to the laws of their country. It has also long been the place at which the city magistracy receive the royal family, and other distinguished visitors, on solemn occasions : the Lord Mayor, as King's Lieutenant, delivers the sword of state to the sovereign when he enters the city, which liis majesty retiu'ns. He is then preceded by the magistracy bare-headed, the Lord Mayor, by right of his office, riding on horseback, immediately before the king. Temple Bar, however, has been voted by the city to be removed, to open a more commodious commimication with the city and liberty of Westminster, at the suggestion, and through the endeavours of William Picket, Esq., Alderman, and Lord Mayor in the year 1 790. Whether this will ever be canied into effect is doubtful. 2 o 142 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. St. Thomas's Hospital, Southwark. Near the middle of the Borough High Street, on the east side, stands St. Thomas's Hospital, a very handsome stone building, and a noble and extensive charity for the re- ception of the necessitous sick and wounded. With respect to the origin of this hospital, it is to be observed that the priory of St. Mary Overies being destroyed by fire in the year 1207, the canons erected an occasional edifice, at a small distance, to answer the same purpose, till their monastery could be rebuilt; which being accomplished, Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester, for the greater convenience of air and water, pulled it down in 1215, and removed it to a place where the prior of Ber- mondsey had two years before built an almonry, or almshouse, for the reception of indigent children and necessitous proselytes. The hospital was now dedicated to St. Thomas the Apostle, and endowed with land to the value of £'-34.3 a year: from which time it was held of the Abbot of Bermondsey, until the dissolution of the religious houses, when it fell into the hands of Henry VIH. When the coi-poration of London purchased the manor of Southwark, in 1551, the hos- pital was immediately repaired and enlai'ged ; and, in the November following, there were received into it 250 sick and helpless objects. The hospital still retained its original name of St. Thomas ; and, in 1552, as hath been already mentioned, Bang Edward VI. gianted a charter, by which the mayor and commonalty of London were incorporated governors of the same. Though this hospital escaped the great fire in 1666, yet gi-eat part of its possessions were then destroyed ; and two other fires, that afterwards happened in Southwark, reduced it to great distress. The building grew old and wanted repairs, and the funds on which it de- pended for support failed. However, in 1699, the governors opened a subscription for re- building it on a more extensive plan, which was executed at different times, and completed in the year 1742. The hospital now consists of three quadrangles, or square coiuts. In ihe firont, next the street, is a handsome pair of large iron gates, with a door of the same work on each side, for the convenience of foot passengers. These are fastened on the sides to stone piers, on each of which is a statue representing one of the patients. These gates open into a very neat square court, encompassed on three sides with a colonnade, surrounded with benches, next the wall, for the accommodation of people to sit and rest themselves. On the south side, under an empty niche, is the following inscrijjtion : This building, on the south side of this court, containing three wards, was erected at the charge of Thomas Frederick, of London, Esq., a worthy governor and liberal benefactor to this hospital. Anno 1708. On the opposite side, under the same kind of niche, is this inscription : This building, on the north side of this court, containing three wards, was erected at the LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. I43 charge of Thomas Guy, Esq. citizen and stationer of London, a worthy governor and bountiful benefactor to this hospital, Anno 1707. The centre of the principal front, facing the street, is of stone. On the top is a clock, under a small circular pediment, and beneath that, in a niche, the statue of king Edward VI. holding a guilt sceptre in his right hand, and the charter iu his left. A little lower, in niches on each side, a man with a crutch, and a sick woman ; and under them, in other niches, a man with a wooden leg, and a woman with her arm in a sling. Over the niches ai'e the festoons, and between the last-mentioned figures, the king's arms in relievo : imder which is this inscription : King Edward the Sixth, of pious memory, in the year of our Lord 1552, founded and en- endowed this hospital of St. Thomas the apostle, together with the hospitals of Christ, and Bridvvell, in London, Underneath this is a spacious passage, down several steps, into the second court, which is more elegant than the former. Tliis has also colonnades, except the front of the chapel, which is on the north side, and is adorned witli lofty pilasters of the Corinthian order, placed on high pedestals. On the top i.s a pediment, as well as in the centre of the east and west sides, and above the piazzas, the fronts of the wards are ornamented with handsome Ionic pilasters. In the centre of this court is a handsome brass statue of king Edward VI. by Mr. Schee- makers; behind which is placed, on a kind of small pedestal, his crown laid upon a cushion. The statue is enclosed with iron rails, and stands upon a lofty stone pedestal, on «hich is the following inscription, in capitals : This statue Of King Edward the Sixth, A most excellent Prince, Of exemplary Piety and Wisdom, above his years ; The glory and ornament of liis age, and most munificent founder Of this hospital, Was erected at the expense Of Charles Joyce, Esquire, in the year MDCCXXXVii. On the opposite side of the pedestal is tlie same inscription in Latin. In the centre of each side of this court is a spacious passage into the next, the structure above being supported by two rows of columns. The buildings in the third court are older tliaii the others, and are entirely suiTounded by a colonnade, above which they are adorned with a kind of long, slender, Ionic pilasters, with very small capitals. In the centre is a stone statue of Sir Robert Clayton, dressed in his robes as Lord Mayor, sunounded with iron rails ; upon the J44 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. west side of the pedestal is his arms in relievo, and on the south side, the following in- scription : To Sir Robert Clayton, Knt. born in Northamptonshire, citizen and Lord Mayor of Lon- don, president of this hospital, and vice president of the new workhouse, and a bountiful benefactor to it ; a just magistrate and brave defender of the liberty and religion of his country. Who (besides many other instances of his charity to the poor) built the girl's ward in Christ's hospital, gave first, towards the rebuilding of this house, six hundred pounds, and left, by his last will, two thousand three hundi-ed pounds to the poor of it. ■ This statue was erected in his life-time, by the governors, An. Dom. MDCCI. as a monument of their esteem of so much worth, aud to preserve his memory after death, was by them beautified, An. Dom. MDCCXIV. Since the foundation of this extensive charity, an incredible number of distressed objects have received relief from it ; and though the estates originally belonging to the hospital were ruined, yet by the liberality and benevolence of the citizens and others, its revenues have not only been restored, but augmented, and its annual disbursements now amount to a very considerable sum. It contains nineteen wards, and upwards of five hundred beds, which are constantly occu- pied, and the mode of admitting patients is the same as at St. Bartholomew's hospital ; for which purpose, a committee of governors sits here every Thursday forenoon. Guy's Hospital, Southwark. Behind St. Thomas's hospital, on the other side of St. Thomas's Sheet, stands another foundation of the same description, little inferior to it in extent, but more remarkable fi:om the circumstance of its having been built and endowed by a single individual. Mr. Thomas Guy, the founder, had, fi-om a small beginning, by industry and fingality amassed an immense fortime ; but more particularly by purchasing seamen's tickets, in the reign of Queen Ann6, and by buying aud selling South-sea stock, in the year 1720. He was never married, and had no relations ; therefore, towards the close of his life, considering how he should dispose of his wealth, he at length resolved to be the founder of the most ex- tensive chaiity ever established by one man. Mr. Guy was seventy-six yeai's of age when he formed this resolution, and, having no time to lose, immediately purchased of the governors of St. Thomas's hospital, a lease of a piece of ground, nearly opposite to that hospital, for the term of nine hundred and ninety- nine years, at a ground-rent of thirty pounds a year. As this spot was covered with small houses, that were old and iU-tenanted, he gave proper notice to the inhabitants to quit them ; which being done he pulled down the buildings in the year' 1721, and proceeding with the greatest expedition, he caused the foundation of the intended hospital to be laid the following spring ; and the building was pursued with such alacrity, that it was roofed in before the death of the founder, which happened on the 27th of December, in the year 1724. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. ]45 The only motive which indiiced Mr. Guy to erect this hospital in so low and close a situation was his design of putting it under the management and direction of the governors of that of St. Thomas's. By the advice of his friends he altered his resolution ; but it was too late to think of choosing another situation ; for the building was at that time raised to the second story. However, he rendered the place as agreeable as possible, by its eleva- tion above the neighbouring streets. The whole expense of erecting and fimiishing this hospital amounted to the sum of eighteen thousand seven hundred and ninety-two pounds sixteen shillings, great part of which Mr. Guy expended in his lifetime ; and he left two hundred and ninety thousand four hundred and ninety-pounds to endow it ; both together amounting to two hundred and thirty-eight thousand two hundred and ninety-two pounds sixteen shillings ; a much larger Sum than was ever left before in this kingdom, by one single person, to charitable purposes. This building consists of two quadrangles, beside the two wings that extend from the front to the street. The wing on the west side had been lately added, and is built with such elegance and uniformity as to make the whole a very handsome and regular edifice. The entrance into the building is by elegant and noble iron gates, supported by stone piers. These gates open into a square, in the centre of which is a brazen statue of the founder, by Mr. Scheemakers, dressed in a livery gown, and well executed. In the front of the pedestal is this inscription : Thomas Guy, sole Founder of this Hospital in his Lifetime. A. D. MDCCXXI. On the west side of the pedestal is represented, in basso-relievo, the parable of the Good Samaritan ; on the south side are Mr. Guy's ai'ms ; and on that side of the pedestal facing the east is our Saviour healing the impotent man. The superstructure of this hospital has three floors beside the garrets, and the same construction runs through the whole building, which is so extensive as to contain twelve wards, in which are four hundred and thirty-five beds, exclusive of those that may be placed in the additional part ; and the whole is advantageously disposed for the mutual accommo- dation of the sick, and those who attend them. A short time after Mr. Guy's decease, his executors, pursuant to his last will, applied to pai-liament to get themselves, with fifty-one other gentlemen nominated by the testator, to be incorporated governors of the intented hospital ; upon which all these gentlemen were constituted a body politic and corporate, by the name of the President and Governors of Guy's Hospital. By this act of incorporation they were to have perpetual succession, and a common seal, with the power of possessing the real and personal estates of the late Thomas Guy, Esq., for the purposes of the will, and to purchase, in perpetuity or for any term of years, any other estate whatsoever, not exceeding twelve thousand pounds per annum. 2 P 146 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. As soon as this corporation was established by parliament, the Governors immediately set about completing the work, by finishing and I'urnishing the hospital, and taking in patients, the number of whom, at first, amounted to four hundred and two. Tlie officers and servants belonging to this hospital are chosen by the Governors, who have ever since carried on this noble charity in such maimer as to answer, in the strictest degree, the bene- volent intentions of the foimder. Tlie medical establishment and forms of admission are similar to those of St. Thomas's Hospital, but the day for receiving patients is Wednesday. There is a library and a collec- tion of anatomical jireparation belonging to this institution. Burlington House, Piccadilly. Piccadilly is so called, from Peccadilla Hall, a sort of repository for ruffs, when there were no other houses where Sack\'ille Street now stands. Piccadilly was completed, as far- as Berkeley Street, in 1642. The fast good house built here was Burlington House, the noble founder of which said, he placed it there " because he was certain no one would build beyond him !" The front of this noble mansion is of stone ; the circular colonnade is of the Doric order, and by this the wings are connected. This bouse was left to the Devonshire family, on the expres."; condition that it should not be demolished. The heavy screen, which conceals this beau- tiful front from the street, has long been regi-etted as a nuisance. Melbouun House, and Treasury Offices, Whitehall. Adjoining the Horse Guards is Melhourn House, built by Sir Matthew Featherstone- haugh, and afterwards purchased by Lord Melbourn, who exchanged it with His Royal Highness the Duke of York, for York House, Piccadilly, who added the fronts and the dome-portico across the street. When the Duke removed to Portman Square, the house was restored to Lord Melbourn. The Offices of the Treasury ai'e contiguous ; this is a handsome stone building, fronting the Parade in St. James's Park. Tlie whole front is rustic, and consists of tlu'ee stories ; the lower Tuscan, and the second Doric, with good-sized arched windows. The upper part of this story is singularly adorned with the tryglyphs and metopes of the Doric frieze, though this range of ornament is supported neither by columns nor pilasters. A range of Ionic columns above this supports a pediment. Near the Treasury is the house usually appointed for the residence of the prime minister. A passage to the public street before Whitehall, under the Cockpit, is esteemed a part of the ancient palace. A little northward from this entrance was the beautiful gate belonging to this palace, built by order of Henry the Eighth, fi'om a design of Hans Holbein, enclosing the Tilt Yard, &c. Wlutehall, originally built by Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, in the reign of Henry tlie Third, was at his death, bequeathed by him to the Black Friars of London ; from them coming to Walter De Grey, Archbishop of York, it became the town-residence of the LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. i47 archbishops of that see ; till passing from the haughty Thomas Wolsey, the Cardinal, it came into the hands of the crown, and was formed into one of the royal palaces. The old palace occupied a space along the northern bank of the river, a little below West- minster Bridge, and extended to St. James's Park, along the eastern end of which many of its various buildings lay, from the Cockpit to Spring Gardens. The ancient building, which contained upwards of 1000 apartments, was mostly consumed by a fire, which broke out in the year 1697. House of Correction, Coldbath Fields. On the north side of Coldbath Square, is the House of Correction for the County of vliddlesex, wliich is formed principally in conformity to the judicious and humane sugges- tions of the late Mr. Howard. This prison was erected in pursuance of an act of piarliament passed in the twenty- sixth year of the reign of George IH. " for enabling the justices of the peace for the county of Middlesex to raise money for building a House of Correction within the said county." But it is also used as a penitentiary house. The spot on which this edifice is erected having been a swamp on the declivity of a hill, it was found necessary to lay the foundation so deep, and to pile it so securely, that it is supposed there are as many bricks laid under ground as appear in sight. The building, with few deviations from uniformity, is laid out and divided into sepai-ate and distinct cells, or single apartments, as well on the ground floor as on the upper stories, each cell being eight feet tlirec inches long, and six feet three inches wide. To each cell are apertures, or windows for light and ventilation, each two feet six inches wide by two feet high ; the one over the door, the other at the height of seven feet from the floor in the opposite direction : these apertures ai-e closed or opened by means of wooden shutters, acting at the will of the person confined. The cells on the ground floor are built on aixhes, and are raised twenty-one inches from the pavenjent of the yards, those of tlie upper floors rest on the arches of those below ; and, as the use of combustible matter is by this means excluded, they are all fire-proof The whole number of single cells is two hundred and eighteen, but sixteen of these which have no other light but from the apertures over the doors, are only used for the oc- casional confinement of refractory prisoners. In addition to these, in each of six of the yards belonging to tlie building, there are two apartments containing the space of two single cells, and intended for lodging two prisoners. Some larger apartments are formed by throwing together the space of several cells : these are used for various pmposes con- nected with the institution, such as infirmary, work-rooms for the male contacts, a spinning- room for the female convicts, day -rooms with fire-places, used by the prisoners in winter ; a laundry, store-rooms, &c. There ai'e eight large yards, to which the prisoners of difierent classes have occassional access, where they can be sheltered fi'om the weather by pent-houses, which extend the 148 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. whole length of them, there are also eight other airing grounds, to which the offenders of the least criminality have free access. Water is brought into all these yards by pipes, for the use of the prisoners, either to drink or to wash themselves, which Ihey are obliged to do every morning before they receive their breakfasts, and again in the evening before being locked up. Communicating with the centre gallery there is a building of three stories, with two rooms in each story- Three of these are let to such prisoners as choose to pay ten shillings and sixpence per week for their hire ; the other three are occupied by the servants of the house, or as store-rooms. At the entrance of the prison is a committee-room, and over it two lodging-rooms, occu- pied by servants belonging to the prison ; and in the centre of the building is a neat and airy chapel, sufficiently spacious to contain the whole number of prisoners which can be accommodated in the cells. The keeper's house is a distinct building on the east side of the entrance, and is an addition to the original plan, as are also commodious shops, suited to the several trades and manufactures, in which the prisoners are occasionally employed, particularly for carpenters, turacrs, sawyers, tailors, and shoemakers, with an extensive stage for drying oakum. Extensive additions and improvements have however been recently made in various parts of the prison, and the whole of the building is surrounded by a high brick wall, strengthened on the outside with stone butti'esses. The Old Bull and Mouth Inn, St. Martin's Le Grand. -'Bull and Mouth Street takes its name from an inn of great antiquity, which has recently been pulled down and rebuilt, and formerly known by the sign of Boulogne Mouth, or Harbour, of which the present appellation is a conniption. At the comer of this street, in Aldersgate Street, was the city mansion of the Earls of Northumberland. In the seventh year of his reign, king Henry VI. gave this house, with the tenements thereunto belonging, to his queen Jane, and it then acquired the appellation of her wardrobe. St. Martin's Le Grand, is a distinct liberty, subject to the dean and chapter of West- minster. It was originally a college, founded in the year 700, by Wythred, king of Kent, but was rebuilt and endowed, about the year 1056, by a noble Saxon, named Ingelricus, and his brother Edwardus, for a dean and secular canons, or priests, and was dedicated to St. Martin : the epithet le Grand, was afterwards added on account of the great and extraordinary privileges, particularly the dangerous one of sanctuary, granted to it by different monarchs. LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. I49 London Bridge. Pennant and otlier historians are not agreed as to tlie date of tlie foundation of the original edifice, wliich occupied the site of the present New Bridge. It is certain tliat at tlie time of the Romans, there was merely a feiTy to continue their " Watling Street " supposed to have been opposite to Dowgate Hill, which led in a straiglit line to Kent Street, Southwark. William of Malmsbury, however, states that, in 994, Sweyn, &»"• of Denmark, in his attack on London, was so valiantly opposed by Ethelred IL, and the citizens that many of tlie Danish army were drowned in the river, because in tlieir rage they took no notice of the Brldcje ; thus clearly admitting its existence at that date. Of the noble church, nearly adjoining the bridge on the Southwark side, tradition states, that a venerable ferryman died, and left all his gains to an only daughter, named Mary, who built the beautiful nunnery of St. Marie Overies, now St. Saviour's Church, and endowed it with tlie profits of the fei-ry. This convent falling into decay, was a second time endowed by a noble lady named Swithiii, as a college for priests ; and the clergy of that period, being men of public spirit, built the bridge and kept it in repair. It was at first rudely constructed of timber, and, according to Pennant, &c., in 1136, was burned down, — being rebuilt, it became so ruinous, that in 1 1 63 it was taken down, and a stone bridge was begun by Peter <;urate of St. Mary Colechurch, in 1176. This is tlie bridge now removed, in consequence of tlie completion of the new edifice adjoining, and intended to supersede it. The com- pletion of the old bridge occupied 33 years, and on Peter's death, he M'as bmied in a chapel which he had constructed in one of the centre piers. The stupendous work was founded on enormous piles, driven closely together, on the tops of which were laid long planks ten inches thick, strongly bolted ; on these was placed the base of the pier, the lowermost stones being bedded in pitch. Around all this were placed the sterlings, designed for the preservation of the foundation piles, and which occasions a fall of five feet, on the retreat of each tide. The bridge was at one period crowded with houses, leaning over the river in a terrific manner, supported by props, as well as beams, wliicli crossed in arches from the roofs. A very tragical event occuiTed four years after its completion. On the night of the loth of July, 1213, a conflagration burst out on the south-west side: the bridge became thronged with people, all crowding fi-om the city, when the fire communicating with St. Mai-ie Overies, now called St. Saviour's Church, was by a strong southerly wind extended to the other end, and about 3000 persons are supposed to have lost their lives. In 1282, at the breaking up of the frost, five arches of the bridge were carried away ; and although immediately restored, yet in 1289, the bridge was so much decayed as to be dangerous for passengers, and a toll was levied in 1298, on goods and passengers to keep it in repair. The bridge was so encumbered with houses, that the broadway between them did not exceed 12 feet in breadth ; it nevertheless appeal's to have been the site of a market. 2 Q 150 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Toui-naraents were also held here, and on St. George's daj' 1395, there was a gi-and joust, at which Lord Wells undertook to maintain the renown of England against all comers. There were originall\- three openings on each side of the street, whence a view might be had of the shipping. In one of these a drawbridge was contrived, useful eitlier for purposes of defence, or for the admission of vessels to the upper part of the river. This was pro- tected by a strong tower, which, being well manned and armed, occasioned tiie defeat of Falconbridge, with his Kentish mariners, in 1471, in his attempt to seize the city. The New Bridge. The first pile of this New Bridge, was driven on tlie west side of the Old Bridge, March, 1824. On the fifteenth of June, 1825, the stone was laid by the Lord Mayor of London (Mr. Alderman Ganatt), in the presence of the late Duke of York. The ceremony was marked by great pomp and circumstance. The civic authorities, accompanied by his royal Iiighness, having proceeded in procession to tlie principal coffer-dam of the bridge, Mr. Jones, sub-chairman of the committee, presented a silver trowel to tlie Lord Mayor, who then addressed the Duke of York and the company in a very appropriate speech. This was succeeded by the masonic ceremonies. A portion of fine mortar being placed around the cavity of the stone, by several of the assistants, and spread by the Lord Mayor with his plendid trowel, precisely at five o'clock the first stone was gradually lowered into its bed by a brazen block of four sheaves, and the power of a macliine called a crab. When it was settled, it was secured by several masons, who cut four sockets close to it on the stone beneath, into which were fitted strong iron clamps, secured with plaster of Paris. The Lord Mayor then sti-uck it with a mallet, and ascertained its accuracy by applying the level to its east, north, west, and souUi, surfaces. The work being thus perfected, the citv sword and mace were disposed in saltire upon the stone ; successive shouts burst from the immerous spectators ; the bands played the national anthem of England ; and, a flag being lowered as a signal, on the top of the dam, the guns of the Artillery Company, and the carronades on Calvert's brewery wharf fired a salute. When the procession had left the dam, amidst the acclamations of the spectators and populace, many of the visitors went down to the floor to view the stone more closely, and to boast to posterity that they had stood upon it or walked over it. The dimensions of the New Bridge are as follows : — Centre arch, span, 150 feet, rise, 32 feet, piers, 24 feet; arches next the centre, span, 140 feet, rise, 30 feet, piers, 22 feet, abutment arches, span, 130 feet, rise, 25 feet, abutment 74 feet. The full widtli, from bank to bank, 690 feet ; length of bridge, including abutments, 950 feet ; ditto, without abutments, 782 feet ; width of the bridge, from outside to outside of the parapets, 55 feet ; caiTiage way, 33 feet 4 inches. The ai'ches are constructed solel}' of' granite, of the finest description and workmanship, from the qnanies of Devonsliire, Aberdeen, and Cornwall. The piers and abutments are s LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUKY. 15] also constructed exteinally of tlie saino material ; but are filled inside with tlie liardest Yorkshire and Derbyshire stone. The cornices and parapets are wholly of granite. The stairs and the accompanying pedestals are also constructed of granite. We believe there are 77 steps, of which 30 ai-e covered at high water. There are two landin<^s to break the abruptness of the ascent. The width of the stairs is proportioned tn the bridge : while the beautiful pedestals of the suunnit, composed of granite blocks, weighing 25 tons, challenge the admiration of the spectators. On tli(^ City side, the road-way, which extends to a fine open area, created by the demo- lition of the houses in front of the Monument, back to Crooked Lane, and thence to East- cheap, is supported by eleven brick arches, with the exception of the elliptical arch over Thames Street. This latter arch is faced with granite, and the interior is constructed of Yorkshire stone. On each side of this ai-ch are rustic gateways, leading to a succession of steps, which enable the passengers fi-om Thames Street to reach the bridge without taking a circuitous route. At the Southwark side of the bridge the roadways are sup- ported by twenty-two brick aiches of a similar character to the City side, with the ex- ception of a beautiful arch conmiunicating with Tooley Street. This is faced with gi-anite, but the interior is of brick, completed in the most masterly style of workmanship. The line of road on this side, ibr the present, terminates at the entrance to St. Thomas's Street ; but it is intended ultimately that it should be carried forward to the wide opening in front of the Town Hall — a most desirable improvement. The side commu- nicating with Tooley Street will, in like manner, open itself at tlie wide part near the entrance to Bridge Yard. ^o^ Opening of the New Bridge. The bridge being so far completed as to admit of its being opened, the 1st of August 1831, the anniversary of the accession of the House of Hanover to the throne of these realms, was appointed for the ceremony ; and his Majesty, William IV., was graciously pleased to accept the invitation of the corporation of London to be present on the occasion, accompanied by his illustrious consort. His Majesty was pleased to command that the procession should be by water, with the double view of benefitting the men employed on the river, and of enabling the gi-eatest possible number of his loyal subjects to witness the spectacle. As soon as his Majesty's intentions were known, preparations on the most ex- tensive and magnificent scale were made ; the an-angements on the river being entrusted to Sir Byam Martin, and the bridge and its approaches to the Bridge Committee. Vast numbers of Workmen were immediately employed in erecting an extensive triple awnin"- along the London end of the bridge, which terminated in a magnificent pavilion for the reception of His Majesty, and vaiious apartments for the use of the Queen and her attendants. The pavilion and awning were lined throughout with the colours of all nations, and upwards of 150 flags and banners floated from the top of the bridge. In the royal tent a tabic was laid for their Ma.jesties, and the members of the Royal Family; and under the canopy two long tables were laid, capable of accommodating 1500 persons, for 152 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. the use of the alderman and officers of tlie corporation, the common couucihnen, and their ladies, &c. To facilitate their Majesties' passage down the river, and to prevent confusion and in- convenience, two paralk'l lines of vessels were formed into a passage of about 150 feet wide, consisting of a double, and in many cases, a triple line of barges, steamers, yachts, and craft of eveiy description, ^^ liich extended from the upper water-gate of Somerset House next Waterloo Bridge, about halfway between Southwark Bridge and the new bridge, when the line became more open, and gradually spread to the stairs of the new bridge on each side, so as to afford ample space for the boats in the procession to land their inmates and retire. The termination of the lines at these points was formed by the eight city barges, with the navigation barge and shallops. These were new gilt and decorated with the gayest flags, and filled with gay company. Each barge had its appointed station ; those of the Lord Mayor and Stationers' Company were rather in advance of the bridge ; and all were provided with bands of music. Several gun-brigs were brought up the river, from which and from the wharfs adjacent, salutes were fired throughout the day ; flags and (dolours of all descriptions were brought into requisition ; and even the vessels below bridge all appeared in theii- holiday deco- rations. Until one o'clock in the day spaces were left in the line, midway between each of the bridges for the occasional passing of wherries, &c. Boats were stationed at intervals within the line, in order to be ready to give assistance, in case of accidents ; and officers belonging to the Thames police, with other authorized persons were placed in various situations to preserve the lines until their Majesties' return. The appearance of the bridges contributed greatly to heighten the interest of the scene. The balustrades of Waterloo v,eve crowded at an early hour, many persons having taken up tlieir stations there as early as between five and six o'clock in the morning. On the whole length of the terrace of Somerset House, several tiers of seats were erected, which were occupied even at an early hour with a most respectable company, chiefly ladies. The windows behind, and the tops of the building in ever)' place which could command a view, were also thronged with spectators. The balustrades of Blackfriars Bridge were also crowded with well dressed company. Merchant Taylor's School, Suffolk Lane. This School was founded in 1561. The whole edifice was consumed by the gi'eat fire ; the present spacious fabric is supported on the east side by stone pillars, forming a hand- some cloister, containing apartments for tlie ushers. Adjoining is the chapel, and the Mbrary well furnished. Three hundred boys receive a classical education, one third of them gratis, and the rest for a very small stipend. It is esteemed an excellent seminary, and sends several scholars annually to St. John's, Oxford, in which there are forty-six fellow- ships belonging to it. london in the nineteenth century. 153 Church of St. Mary at Hill, Lower Thames Street. Opposite to Billingsgate is the street called St. Mary's Hill, on the west side of which is the palish church of St. Mary, called, from its situation, St. Mary at Hill, or on the Hill. The date of the foundation of this church is equally uncertain with that of most of the churches in this city. The first circumstances met with concerning it, are that Rose de Wrytel founded a chantry in tlie church of St. Mary at Hill, in the year 1330, and that Richard de Hackney presented Nigellus Dalleye to this living in the year 1337. Stow, on the authority of Fabian, who was living at the time, relates a singular occurrence at tlie re- building of this church in 1497. He says, " In the year 1497, in the moneth of Aprill, as labourers digged for the foundation of a wall, within the church of St. Marie-hill, neare unto Belingsgate, they found a coffin of rotten timber, and therein the corps of a woman, whole of skinne, and of bones, undisevered, and the joynts of her arms plyable, without breaking the skynne, upon whose sepulchre this was engraven : ' Here lieth the bodies of Richard Hackney, Fishmonger, and Alice his wife: the which Richard was sheriffe in the fifteenth of Edward II. (132.3). Her bodie was kept above gi-ounde three or four dayes without noysance, but then it waxed unsavorie, and so was againe buried.' " Though this church was considerably injured by the fire in 1666, it did not require re- building, and was therefore repaired, after which the parish of St. Andrew Hubbard, the church of which was totally burnt, was united to it. It is a well-proportioned Gothic structure of stone, con.sisting of a plain body enlightened by large windows, with a cupola in the middle, and a square tower, crowned with a handsome turret, at the end. Tlie di- mensions are, length ninety-six feet, breadth sixty-feet, altitude, to the ceiling, twenty-six feet, to the centre of the cupola, thirty-eight feet, to the top of the turret, ninety-six feet. It is a rectory, the advowson of which appears to have been always in lay hands ; and, in 1638, was purchased by the parishioners, in whom it has ever since remained ; but since the parish of St. Andrew Hubbard has been united to it, the Duke of Northumberland, who is pati'on of that parish, presents in turn. Annually, on the Sunday after Midsummer-day, according to ancient custom, the frater- nity of Fellowship-porters, of the city of London, repair to this church in the morning, where, during the reading of the Psalms, they reverently approach the altar, two and two, on the rails of which are placed two basons, and into these they put their respective offerings. They are generally followed by the congregation, and the money offered is distributed among the aged, poor, and infirm members of that fi-aternity. The parish of St. Andrew Hubbard was a rectory, formerly called St. Andrew, Juxta Eastcheap, and was founded before 1389 ; in which year the Earl of Pembroke presented Robert Clayton to the rectory, in the room of Walter Palmer, deceased. On the death of the Earl of Pembroke, without issue, the patronage devolved to the Eails of Shrewsbury, in whose family it continued till 1460, when John, Earl of Shrewsbury, was killed, at the battle of Northampton, when it came to Edward IV. After this, it had divers pations, till Algernon, Earl of Northumberland, presented Thomas Parker, who was burnt out in 1666. 2R 154 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Church of St. Michaijl, Cuooked Lane. Miles's, or rather St. Michael's Lane, was long distinguished by a Dissenting Meeting House. Crooked Lane runs froiii Miles's Lane to Fish Street Hill, and was remarkable for the manufacture of fishing-tackle, bird-cages, hand-mills, &c. At the south side of this avenue stood the parish church of St. Michael's, Crooked Lane, built by Sir Christopher Wren ; but recently taken down in forming the approaches to the New London Bridge. Indeed, the whole of this neighbourhood is undergoing a total change for the above object, and will shortly retain little or no vestige of its former state. In this church William Wal- worth, who-killed Wat Tyler, was buried, whose epitaph, in uncouth rhyme, is recorded by Weever, in his Funeral Monuments. Church of Allhallows the Great, Upper Thames Street. This Church, which is dedicated to All Saints, was originally called Allliallows ad Foenum, in the Ropery, from its vicinity to a hay-wharf, and its situation among rope- makers ; and Allhallows the More, to distinguish it from another church, which stood a little to the east of it, and was called Allhallows the Less ; but being both destroyed by the fire in 1666, the latter was not rebuilt, and the two parishes were united. . The church of Allhallows the Great was founded by the noble family of the Despencers, who presented to it in the year 1361 ; fiom whom it passed to the Earl of Warwick and Salisbiu-y, and at last to the crown. In 1546, Henry VIII. gave tliis church to Thomas, Archbishop of Canterbury, in whose successors it has continued to the present time. It is a rectory, and one of the thirteen peculiars, in London, belonging to the see of Canterburj'. The present edifice was finished in 1683. It was planned by Sir Christopher Wren, but not executed with the same acciu-acy that was designed. It is eighty-seven feet long, sixty feet broad, and thirty -three feet high, to the roof, built of stone, strong and solid. The walls are plain and massy, the ornaments few and simple, and the windows very large. The tower is plain, square, and di\ided into five stages, tenninating square and plain, without spire, turret, or pinnacle. The cornice is supported by scrolls, and over these rises a balustrade of solid construction, suitable to the rest of the building. Allhallows the Less, which was also called Allhallows on the Cellars, or Super Cella- rium, because it stood above vaults let out for cellars, was also a rectory, the advowson of which was in the Bishop ofWinchester, until the college of St. Lawrence Pounteney was founded, when Sir John Pounteney purchased it, and rebuilt the church, which he appro- priated to his coUege ; by which means it became a donative, or cxu'acy. Church of St. Botolph, Bishopsgate. On the west side of Bishopsgate Street, just without the waU, and opposite to the north end of Houndsditch, stands the paiish church of St. Botolph, Bishopsgate, which appears to LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 155 be of very ancient foundation, dedicated to St. Botolpli, an English Saxon Saint, who died about the year 680. But the first rector we have any account of was John of Nortliampton, who resigned the same on the 4th of June, 132-3, at which time it was, and still remains, in the gift of the Bishop of London. The old church, wliich was built of brick and stone, es- caped the fire of London, hut became so ruinous, that the parishioners tliouglit it necessary to apply to parliament to enable them to raise a new church ; which was begun in 172.5, and finished two years after. The present stracture is massy and spacious ; the body is built with brick, and well en- lightened, and the roof hid by a handsome balustrade. The steeple thougli heavy, has a magnificent appearance ; but it has been justly remarked, that in the centre of the front under it, where every spectator would expect to find a principal entrance, he is shut out by a dead wall, and must enter tlie church by small side doors. Instead of a door, in the centre of the fi-ont is a large plain arched window, decorated at a distance with pilasters of the Doric order. Over this window is a festoon, and above that an angular pediment ; on each side is a door, crowned with windows, and over these are others of the port-hole kind ; above which rises a square tower, crowned with a dome, whose base is circular, and sun-ounded by a balustrade in the same form ; by the side of which, on the corners of the tower, are placed m'ns with flames. From this part rises a series of coupled Corinthian pillars, sup- porting other urns like the former, and over them rises the orgive dome, crowned with a very large vase, with flames. The roof within-side is arched, except over the galleries, and two rows of Corinthian columns support both the galleries and ai'cli, which extends over the body of the church, neatly adorned with fret- work. The Pantheon, Oxford Street. On the south side of Oxford Street stands the Pantheon, erected in the year 1772, as a place of evening entertainment for the nobility and gentry; but which was principally used, of late years, for exliibitions, and, occasionally, for masquerades. It was a superb and beautiful structure, though concealed fi^om public view, except the two entrances, the prin- cipal of which is in Oxford Street, and the other in Poland Street. After the destruction of the Opera House, by fire, the subscribers to that establishment removed the performances to this place ; but, in the month of Januaiy, 1792, it shared the same fate, the interior of it being wholly consumed by the same destructive element. Having lost its licence it has now remained shut up for a considerable time, and was recently sold by public auction. Olympic Theatre, Wych Street. The west end of Wych Street was formerly ornamented by Drury House, built by Sir William Drury, an able commander in the Irish wars, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. In the next century it was possessed by the heroic Lord Craven, who rebuilt it. It was lately a large brick pile, concealed by other buildings, and a public house, the sign of the Queen of Bohemia's Head, for whom Lord Craven fought, and to whom, it is said, he was after- V56 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. waids privately married. When the house was taken down, a few years since, the ground was purchased by tlie late Mr. Philip Astley, of the Amphitheatre, WeRttninster Bridge, who huilt what he called The Olympic Pavilion, as a house of public exhibition in horse- manship and droll. It is now in the hands of Madame Vestris, who holds it under a lease from Mr. Scott, the proprietor, and, who, by her able management, is turning it to a truly valuable account. Church of St. Luke, Chelsea, and Sir Hans Sloane's Monument. This church, dedicated to St. Luke, appears to have been ancient, by the old wall, now standing, on the north side, built of flint and rough stone, confusedly heaped together, as well as by the testimony of the most ancient inhabitants, who remember it before the rebuilding. This rectory is within tlie diocese of London, and the archdeaconry of Middlesex. The advowson anciently belonged to the Abbott and Convent of Westminster, till they ex- changed it, 17 July, 28 Henry VIH., together with their manors of Neyte and Hyde, with the King, for the priory of Hurley. It continued in the crown till Queen Elizabeth, by letters patent, dated 3 July, second year of her reign, " demised to Ann, Duchess of Somer- set, the advowson of the parish church and rectory for her life, the reversion to the Queen." And after the death of the Duchess it was granted to the Earl of Nottingham and his Countess for three lives. King Charles I. granted the advowson, with the manor, to James, Duke of Hamilton, and in the next reign Charles Cheyne, Esq., purchased the manor, to which the rectory has ever since been annexed. The ancient parsonage house, with fourteen acres and twenty-two perches of land, stood where Mr. Priest's or Mr. Dowell's stands, west of the Duke of Beaufort's, then the Mar- quis of Winchester's, whence Mr. Priest's is called Parsonage Close to this day. In lieu of which, upon an exchange, the present house and land about, it was given to the rectory for ever, by the consent of the Queen, the then patron. Dr. Edmund Grindall, Bishop of Lon- don, and Robert Richardson, Rector of Chelsea, who conveyed the old house and land to the Marquis by wTiting, bearing date May 3, 1 566. As far as an opinion can be formed from its present appearance, it seems to have been originally of small proportions. In all probability the nave was not wider than the Law- rence chapel on the north-east, and More's chapel on the south-east, and the old belfry did not extend so far west by several feet ; still it was sufficiently commodious for the scanty population of this parish, in those early ages when churches were first constructed, as well as for the celebration of the ceremonies of public worship ; we find mention made of the north and south aisles, in the curious account of the celebration of the funeral of John Lord Braye. It is much to be regi-etted that no drawings exist of its pristine form and dimensions, to satisfy the laudable curiosity of the architectural antiquary ; for, in the absence of such authentic memorials, conjectures, however plausible, can produce little or no beneficial result. Nevertheless, it may be ti-uly asserted that this chui-ch, in its present state, is exceeded by few in this county, either in a copious collection of monuments and epitaphs, or in a ciu-ious display of antique ornaments both architectural and heraldic. london in the nineteenth century. 157 Christ Church, Blackfriars. On the west side of the road leading from Blackfriars' Bridge is situated Christ's Church, founded by Mr. Jolin Marshall, of the Borough, Gent., in 1627, who endowed it with £60 per annum, towards the maintenance of a minister. In 1670 it was made a distinct parisli from St. Saviour's, and a rectory. The present church was built in, or about, the year 1737 at the expense of the parish, and is a regular well-constructed building, with a square tower and turret. The patronage, at present, is in thirteen trustees. New Church, North Audley Street. The west front of this building is the only part visible from the sbeet, the sides being closely confined by the adjoining houses. The portico is of the Ionic order, and has two fluted columns, and two piers, ornamented with anta; in pairs. The entablature is com- posed of an architra\ e of three members, and a frieze with dental cornice. The cymatium which is enriched with honeysuckles, and has lions' heads introduced on its facia is sur- mounted by a lofty blocking course, terminated by a pedestal at each end. The lantern or tower is in two portions — the first, a cubical pedestal — the second an ir- regular- octagon in plan, with an antse at each angle of the superstructure ; the intervals be- tween are open, the larger spaces being filled up about a third of their height by a breast- work, and the remainder with iron work pierced in circles ; the whole is surmounted by an entablature, the cornice of which is emiched with grecian tiles on its eaves, and covered with a pyramidal stone roof, having a pedestal supporting a ball and cross. The first stone was laid September 7, 1825, and it was consecrated April 25, 1828. The edifice is dedicated to St. Mark, and is a chapel of ease to St. George's, Hanover Square. Mr. J. P. Gandy is the architect. New Church, SiIoane Street, Chelsea. This little church, which is in the Gothic style, stands on the east side of the street, and gives a relief to the monotonous line of houses which reach from Knightsbridge to Sloane Square, a distance of nearly half a mile. The fi-ont, which fiices the street, is composed of a centre, having an excellent octagon tmTet on each side, lighted by long naiTow windows to each angle, and divided into two compartments, with buttresses between, finished at top bv crocheted pinnacles. Each turret is covered by an octangular spire terminated by a finial- the centre forms a pediment between tlie turrets, having a window divided into three. Over the centre in the pediment, is a circular blank or shield, as if intended for a clock : the great centre door has a considerable recess, forming a kind of porch. Tlie wings project but little beyond the tuiTets on each side, they having a small door which communicates to the gallery. The cost of the building was under £'6000. The foundations were began in May, 1828, and consecration took place May 8, 1830, being dedicated to the Holy Trinity. Mr. Savage, whose talents are so well known to the public, is the architect. 2 S 158 london in the nineteenth century. New Church, Saffron Hill. The situation of this church is very unfavourable, being built in a nan'ow lane, suiTounded by a close neighbourhood, probably owing to the difficulty of procuring a more eligible plot of ground in the parish. The front faces the west, and is in three divisions. The centre contains a fine window, and is divided from the others by an octangular turret on each side, the upper divisions of which are pierced at each angle, and terminated by battlements ; under the large window is the principal entrance, ascended by steps. The smaller di\isions, contain a window in each, below which are doors communicating with the galleries. There is nothing particulai- in the external appearance of this building, save and except its neat- ness and durability. It is said to contain seats for 1800 persons, 800 of which are free. The foundations were begun in May, 1830, and the building was completed in 1832, being a chapel of ease to St. Andrew, Holborn. Mr. Barry is the architect. New Church, Little Queen Street, Holborn. This excellent specimen of modern Gothic, deserves a better situation than that which it occupies, being much too confined to see it to advantage'. The east front facing the street, and the only oue that can be seen, is 76 feet wide, and 110 feet high to the top of the cross, and is of Bath stone. It has five divisions, separated by clustered buttresses, terminating in brocketed pinnacles ; the central division contains the large chancel window; the two smaller divisions contain the principal entrances covered by porches, fifteen feet wide, and nine feet in projection, over which, are small windows, which give light to the staircases. The porches and windows are adorned with buttresses and pinnacles. Tlie turret, over the centi-e, is connected to the others by flying buttresses on each side, above which it rises in three divisions, the whole terminating in a well-proportioned spire, with a ball and cross at ihe t6p. ' ' The foundations were began the latter end of June, 1829, and it was consecrated in February, 1831. This church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. Mr. Francis Bedford, to whose talent it does credit, is the architect. New United Service Club-House. This Institution is the same as noticed in another part of this work, and has been removed from the building formerly called the United Service Club-house, at the corner of Charles Street, Regent Street ; now occupied by the junior club. It is an establishment for the ac- commodation and entertainment of the officers of the army and navy united, and is situated on the east side of Waterloo Place, at the corner of Pall Mall. The building presents three architectural elevations ; each having a portico of eight columns, placed in pairs, and of the Roman Doric order, supporting an entablature ; the frieze of which is ornamented with triglyphs, the same order being canied tlu-ough the whole extent of the building. The en- tablature of the portico is crowned by a balustrade and piers, foiming a balcony. The building consists of two stories ; the ground story being rusticated, and having two windows on each side of the portico. The principal or upper story which contains an elegant suite of rooms, has seven lofty windows, with pediments in each elevation ; over which, and LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 159 running througli the entire building, is an entablature with modillons under its cornice, th(! wliole surmounted by a balustrade, separated at intervals by piers. The south front is similar to the one described ; but the north, or Pall Mall part, lias a portico the whole height of the building, and is in two divisions ; that of the ground floor being composed of eight fluted Roman Doric cokunus in pairs, having an entablature M'ith triglyphs. This is surmounted by a balustrade, over which are eight Corintliian columns, arranged in the same order as those below, and crowned by an entablature and pediment. The building is from the designs of John Nash, Esq. East Wing of Carlton House Terrace. Since the removal of the Palace of Carlton House, a gi^and space has been opened on the south side of Pall Mall, which affcirds at once a magnificent entrance to, and prospect of, St. James' Park ; at east and west angles of \vhich, nearest Pall Mall, are the United Service Club House and the Athenwum. On proceeding to the park fi'oni the former, we approacli those splendid buildings, Carlton House Terrace. The principal fecade faces the park, and consists of two portions, one to the east and the other to the west of this entrance; the former of which we shall now describe: — each division or wing of this terrace, forms of itself an entire building, and is composed of a centre or main body, and two wings ; these consist of a beautiful and lofty colonnade, of the Corinthian order, the columns being fluted and elevated upon a plinth, supporting a ^^•ell-proportioned entablature, which is carried without a break through the entire elevation. Above the cornice is the balustrade, separated o\er the colunnis by piers. In the intercolumnialions are two divisions of windows, the lower tier having pediments, and other accessaries — the centre recedes from the wings and is in three divisions ; the middle being crowned by a pediment, the tympammi of which is en- riched ; this recess is perforated with attic windows, and surmounted by a sub-cornice and blocking course. The wings are elevated above the main body of the building, and divided by anta;, arranged over the columns of the lower stories, and resting on the piers of the ba- lustrade ; between these are two series of attic windows, the lower decorated with cornice and trusses ; the upper are oval, perforated in the centre of a squai'c sunk pannel, with a similar one on each side ; this is surmounted by a sub-cornice and blocking course. The terrace or basement on which this structure is raised, affords a spacious road in front, forming a delightful promenade ; the outer extremity of this is inclosed by a handsome balustrade, supported fi*om below by Grecian Doric columns of very low dimensions ; the whole being bounded by the park, to ^vhich you may descend by three very spacious flights of steps. These splendid improvements were designed and executed by John Nash, Esq. The New Athenaeum, Waterloo Place. This splendid establishment is nearly upon the same principle as the other club houses, as it respects private arrangements, and very similar to the United Service, in its external appearance. The east elevation, which is the one given in our view, has a rusticated base- ment with a portico, the ends of which are filled up and perforated with windo\\s ; the angles finished by a squai'e pilaster and fluted column, of the Roman Doric order, the space between 160 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. being divided by four columns in pairs, of the same order, and ascended by steps. The frieze is ornamented willi triglyphs, and the cornice is sunounded by a balustrade, the space over tlie centre intercolumnialions being filled up and crowned by a pedestal, supporting the statue of Minerva^ Over the ground story, and on a line with the cornice of the portico, is a balcony running through the three elevations, and tenninating at the angles by pedestals. Tlie princij)le story contains seven lofty windows with French sashes, from whence there is access to the balcony, and which are ornamented with cornice and trusses ; above this, and running through its entire building, is a beautiful frieze, charged with figures in basso-re- lievo, said to be copied Irom the lilgin frieze, deposited in the British museum. Over this is a cornice of very bold projections, the whole crowned by a balustrade. The north Iront, which faces Pall Mall, is adorned with a portico, similar to the one described ; but the building is not so wide, having but five windows in width. The south corresponds with this, but is without a portico ; there is also, adjoining, a delightful shrubbery enclosed bj- palisades. This building is from the designs of Decimus Burton, Esq., whose splendid specimens of architecture, contribute to adorn the metropolis. Arthur's Club House, St. James' Street. This club house is situated on the same side of the street, and in a line with Crockford's, but differs materially in its aichitectural details. The basement story is rusticated and per- forated by five openings; four of which are appropriated for windows, the other forming the principal entrance, and are at the left angle of the building. Although it is not wider than the window recess, yet is has a very lop-sided ap]3earance, from not being in the centre. Over this story is a sort of sub-cornice and blocking, which supports six fluted columns of the Corinthian order, set at equal distances. Tlie intercolumniations contain five windows, having a balustrade before each, reacliing about one fourth of theu' heiglit. They are crowned by pediments and simicircular heads alternately. The columns support an entabla- ture; the cornice having dentils, and being of very bold projection. The whole is sunnounted by a lofty blocking comse and balusti'ades, intersected over the columns by acroteria. Mr. Hopper is the architect. Vintner's Hall, Upper Thames Street. This building stands on the south side of Upper Thames Street, and on the west of the ap- l^roach to the Southwark Bridge. It consists of three sides of a quadrangle, enclosing a square coiu't, the north side of which is enclosed by handsome and lofty iron gates, hung on nisti- cated piers ; the south portion of the quadrangle contains the hall ; this side, like the other two, is divided by pilasters into three divisions, the intercolumniations containing windows of stained glass, which light the hall. Over this is an entablature cairied through the entire building ; each side of the quadrangle is siu-mounted by a pediment, the tympanum of the centre division being charged with a shield bearing the Company's arms (three tuns and a chevron). -ly Tho.H.aepli^ra. CHEAPSIISE, POUILTIRT, & BWEIK]L,EiaSlSlljm.Tr. 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SKcpherd . raWG CHARLES IS*'" L^ORTER fc D^^'ARF, NEWGATK STREET Eafcaved Dv 'i 3a.Tber A riGrRE jK&i) E\bLLI. 1_M X'ANNJ-F.R .^LEY: SEIVGATE ST. -SXlETlElg. 'CHASSIS, STRAB2J, WO"Vv' PULLED DOWN Ei^aTOd"bjTf WaDiB cjLiOirifflwaiaiEEffi.'s hajll, mehsehg ilame. ■r., r„ 1, . 7?, " ?: Sm. ILAME. CANONBU KV TUWfcK. I S ], I N U T uN , En^:aTei "brlTWB and . ST itART ISXINGTOK. rra-*ii Vt TH Sh^phcri ©it. IE) ^1!J.HE?3"^ IS SAB, CHHIST CHURCH, SPITAIFIELD S sr DTnsrsTJUJS in the east ;i Shrpiierd- angrKvca. uy J . HiacJlitf. Drawn by Tho.H.Shcphnr DnLwn "by Yha H Stepbiwi t^apK-rA'^ R./c(B THE KlISTG'S WSIGiibt Mjli'Xj:^'^, '^1\ qA-avcA \j J. Tinrfle ST. ]l;ji.i/"ii]EiIi;]I^ » Xliff^ STESISIET. 1 L. H.Sh«phoi-d (CmOSBir EIA3LJL,. B1£§B;®1P§(&A'' -«:- *■ - - ^^ .Tf^S , ®]Lffi) JB^. £ji3-a»wi by W. Walli;. ILOCK IEI(D)SFITAI.. MTBIE ffAIRK C'DJRHEJE.. ■CHKIST'S ffitOSlPITAlL. HEWiSATE STMJEET. M)EV DrayfTL by Tlw-H- Shcphecd. PL 178 EAST ■WJIH© OjF CAJSiL'XvDH HiDlD'SiE ■X]EMI£A(C)E. iipir 'if 'In' Ivliiscs. Hnsbury Squk.--. Engrarel Vy J Itoger? MIBBKjIESEX mOSFITAlL. iP'iEHsiroMism's haili.. chahtjeje mowsie. Dr=™i7r Tho.H.atjtn-a, ^ap-avei DJ W. Wattes BffiiSuPlEIES' HAILIL, THia®©M®iaT®S' ST. jrawa ^ Tko.H. Stephad aveo- "bv V.' . V»'a*lnn! ^'R' ,\ '■mT.,T,vjn[;'TV'*^. ni r\ i. -^ u ._. ^.- ^ MMljff^ € k/' ^AMBbik.. *1 /^|r '^k 1 '^i VYr 'H i ■•tM % n :| 1 '■%} 'li .H| 1 pi,.. I r' INNHOLDEKS HALL , COLLEGE ST"REET GlmjLt.Kh Hrtl.l. , r.,->..-,l,Ni,tlALi. slr.Khl 5/iiiii:Jii.^j:^"U' iti'iy'U ■ Jjrn.'i,&- C Tcmplf of tkc MvLSrs, Fir^'hs-v Scuari^. Lmdan, Oci 31 iS': Llavo ':.- -1:l. H I'L-] r.cr-3 :®¥TH ; SE, f EREABHEEBLIE ST. HEILIL, F1K.OM Dray.li liy Tbo, ii. Shepherd ongrgrrea aj . JFAIR]SIHffiD)©S? ST. AVHK) TIHIB IFIiISIET aPMIC^®.^. Ura'veTi "d"; Tho H Sheuberd. iProTUHBJCJLr m ICK LASTE. ^ T-;-.vc3 !-v -' S Aiiea GiRAY'S nm/^ i^^A.iU',u ^ v^Ml.M.l.. MAIDION l-ANI''.. SADLERi" _HAi.i., c::h1':apsidk. Drawn bv 'I'ho H Stieft^^fd -avod V)' W lA'al-i.r.r '.lJ>itlfCM.\ sr (■ i.i'.MK.N'i's riinu'cii, r i.kmf.nt's i,ank.. ST. HKNNf;T KINK, THRKAI >N1:F.1)LK STUKfT. ST jr AMES'S FAICASE. FAI,1L MAEjlt,, armm "bj ThoE Shepherd Entfrave^ >v S '.acc" Drawn oj Tlio. H. Shcplic FUJ70 JSI.H'ffi'S BEHCm FmiSSTOH, PRINCIPAL KHTRANCE. SA3D):i ■:.B .v'ii^f^i&.. Dnnra Vy Tho. U, ShepttcrcL PL 157. Engsprei lay X Barber WEST IHBIA IMP®mT BCD)€K, ]P®F]LAIB.. i-wt w """ " OL© LOKTK^Kf ]S]SE]Q)©'lSs, FR(S)M ones &: C TcTHfilc of the Musca Ficsboty 3<^aare .Icb^oq Jan. 30. 1630 a,®^ .18. BM.U®©1E. H. Shepherd. CETT OJF ICOISrJBOJJ LTICHE-KH' H©SFITAIL. ■ »*:-. »af4*»'¥%j^^fe x.'a.ix<\ AiC, ST. ILiXrjKK'.S. jia-A-a 'oj Tflo.E.Sfceplierd. ST STEPHEN, \C\IBaOOK. ST.iCAHY WOOLNOTH, LOMBARD ST. aieiiE Moxy 32 TJf'n.€A(«' laKromjitJK k. M-KRCIIANT TAILORS KCFIOOL, ST MARY AT Mil. I. ■I'lIK MDNl'MKNT. I'lSII SIREET IITLL, ST ATS'llN. WATLISC STREET. ■!,I5SSH©HS 111 ifmu]U (GBKlKfJ. XmiE BTTTKE OF TOMM'S SCHOOI-. CHELSEA. ]KAJR.]L. S]P]EM€JE]K."S lHC®lUr§lE. ©miSiK^l JfAKB-. ST. JAMES'S PICCADILLr. ST. PETER LE POOR. BROAD STREET. H©iK.irin[UM]E]Emit,AMB H©wsF, , (riiiiiAMir-fy "fcCBorrH^er "fmn^f"^ '\ M'ATERMANS HALJ.. ST, MARYS HJJ.L, -PAINTER STAINER'S HALL, LITTLE TRIJ^ITY LAME , -Ti ^ ThD a-3hspIiar«L. ni74 ST. GEORGE'S, HATJOVF.R SyUAKK ST. GEORGE'S, B1.00J1SBVKV .Tf..-C?TIE38J[©I& ;®S4PS3!SS]E1f MOTDTSjL r fi?. J »■ Ji j; : !E ® '0 s i^ , aiiiijiti. IJrawii l)v Tbo H Steplir; Drawo. try Xha il. ihepl. S""'"'- TTlBIiE "T^n)WT.lK CilF' It, ifi!5i0)iyr T:C)'y)"!!;iR. ibihilil. \itsm Vy Tho. H. Shepherd. yj 117 PRKUdCATIVI-. Wll.U UVl'lCK. DOC TOli'S COMMONS. Pi. 118 /....y...^, RKN joiinso:n's h];ad, pkvkri-.vx cot'rt. strasd Urjwii M Tho. H, Sliepiietd WESTmiMSTEffi. HA.ILIL. ZnffraTed Vr "iV. "Wadims . -s^ T .TfO"^"^''^ f'TTr-.fTT^ ■(• ^.'^'^■>\ TT V7¥^ TV. 'P ^3«- by n^SLii-jni^TJ ALLH ALLOWS, ij H E A.D STREET. L-is»;ij K A„, ST. JAMES S, GAHLICK HILL i-'iawu 0j liio.ii-oacpi^crd. ALLHALLOWS STA1^'I^'<;, MAHK LANK. ST. MARTIN. OKO.\R. MARTLS'S LANE. CAIfNO:S ST. .■^'1. Nl'lKiL.VS, lOl.l. AIMIIV, IISH ^IRi;!". T. .VI. L II \ 1,1 ilWS I ()^ liny w \1 DrsLTTa "by ThaH, Shepherd. PtJ79 EcgrsLved "b-;^ J, Huichlrffp AJLiCHAICJ:,©-*-^ ffiffillUmCH, tCTFJPJEffi. TlHiXMES STKEET. r% ST EDMOND THE RING , I.OMBAKD STUERT ^T AXTIIOI.IN. FKOM -W^ATLTMG STREET, ST ASSES. SOHO. FORE STREET. ASD CRTPPLEGATE Clll l;> H ST. MIV m Hi- 11 ST. MILDRKD, BRT'.AD STKl-ET. ST. BAiri'llOl.DMKW, THE GRKAl". WEST SMITUI-'IELD DrKwn "by Tba H, Shepherd. , Engrxred Vy J. GougH. ST. (CATHIE miUE CmEE. ]L,]E ABEMBIAEalL STJREET. Drawn Ijy Tha M. Shepherd J7 lif ST". M2E.in)mEffi). F®iIJ]LT]B.T. ClEURHiST (C]Hn01R.CffiI, AHB FAMT ©IE' CEimilST"^ IEI€)sF£TA]L,. I'.( A\ I II I l:i II <' n I M'S DPI', ,T M.\l;V M.\i;n,\l.l'.S. cil.l> I I'^ll ST C J.-i:B ii S Ji AV nji:L:u rF.NT DAXES. STRAND. I)riira.l7Tl>aH,SSejiera. ri.y WiiiSlt", if iuiifi-I S'Jf'ji^JS'i", xerken^el; T-T D ,■. -" "T i:' V^ "t^ ' ■I^ISdSATIE. F®3RE Sl^'KEET. Ih-av/.-i b. 'It^ ji,Slwfl.er< ST, MARY, Al.])EKMARY, ST, MICHAEL'S. COHKHII.L. ,tjkw:rt, ©x,!-) ^'tsrwiKT. Engrsjre'i "by J. "hn^ ^T. gWJLTHJIH. ]Li©JeJB®H SXOi^B. €A5J:^(D)M STREET. Drxnn bjf Tha R-ShephBri. Pn45 "Ea^awi J'J£*. MJI^.' EM MXXME, KEV CHURCH, SLn,\XE ST. CHELSJEA. MTVf CHXTHCJI . ilOEXH ArDiEY ST. Hra.wn "bj- Tha H-Saieplurra Fl 150 ST. SEIPTDTlLCffiimE'S, SIKKHKEIK. STJRIEIET. ALPHABETICAL LIST ENGRAVINGS, REFERENCE TO THE DESCRIPTION OF THE SUBJECTS. Aldgate, p. 71. Admiralty, Parliament Street, p. 50. Albany, Piccadilly, p. 1)2. Apothecaries' Hall, Pilt;Tim Street, p. AtlienEeiim, New, Waterloo Place, p. Arthur's Club House, p. 160. 127. 159. Banqueting' House, Whitehall, p. 42. Bucking-ham Water Gate, Strand, p. 68. British Museum, Great Russell Street, p. 45. Barber Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell Street, p. 89. Broad Street, Bioomsbury, p. 112. Barnard's Inn Hall, p. 103. Boar's Head, Great East Cheap, p. 140. Bioomsbury Square, and Statue of Fox, p. 116. Bull and Mouth, (Old) St. Martin's le Grand, p. 148. Brewers' Hall, Addle Street, p 119. Bartholomew's, St., Hospital, p. 129. Burlington House, Piccadilly, p. 146. Charles Ist's Porter and Dwarf, Newgate Street, p. 64. Carpenters' Hall, London Wall, p. 47. Cheapside, Poultry, and Bucklersburv, p. 71. Cloth Workers' Hall, Mincing Lane, p. 76. Cordwainers' Hall, Distaff Lane, p. 90. Cannonbury Tower, Islington, p. 1.37. Cornhill and Lombard Street, p. 87. Cliftbrd's Inn Hall, Fleet Street, p. 79. Coal Exchange, Thames Street, p. 80. Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate Street, ib. Compter, Giltspur Street, p. 117. Coopers' Hall, Basinghall Street, p. 127. Christ's Hospital, Newgate Street, p..l21. Carlton House Terrace, p. 159. Charter House, p. 77. Drapers' Hall, Throgmorton Street, p. 75. Dyers' Hall, College Street, p. 92. East India House, Leadenhall Street, p. 43. Exeter 'Change, Strand, p. 65. Excise Office, Broad Street, p. 72. Fishmongers' Hall, Thames Street, p. 90. Fleet Market, p. 59. • Street, p. 103. Fore Street and Cripplegate, p. 89. Farringdon Street and Fleet Prison, p. 134. Foundling Hospital, Guildford Street, p. 135. Guy, Earl of Warwick, Warwick Lane, p. 69. Goldsmiths' Hall, Foster Lane, p. 76. Gray's Inn Hall, Chapel, and Library, p. 84. Girdlers' Hall, Basinghall Street, p. 92. Grocers' Hall, Poultry, p. 119. Guy's Hospital, Borough, p. 144. Horse Guards, Parliainent Street, p. 49. Hungerford Market, .Strand, p. 52. Heralds' College, Bennet's Hill, p. 55. Haberdashers' Hall, Maiden Lane, p. 58. Holborn Bridge, p. 113. House of Correction, Cold-bath-fields, p. 147. Innholders' Hall, College, Street, p. 92. Ironmongers' Hall, Fenchurch Street, p. 133. James' St., Palace, Pall Mall, p. 44. John's, St., Gate, Clerkenwell, p. 70. Jonson's (]3en) Head, Devereux Court, p, 105. King's Mews, Charing Cross, p 50. - Weigh House, Little East Cheap, p. 80. Bench Prison, p, 130. Katharine's, St., Docks, Tower, p. 132. LIST OF ENdllAVINOS. London Stone, Cannon Street, p. 69. Brid-e, Old, p. 149. New, p. 150. Docks, p. \\5. Lying-Inn Hospital, City Road, p. 118. Lndgate Hill, p. 60. Lincoln's Inn Hall, Chapel, &c., p. 84. Lyon's Inn Hall, p. 103. Lunatic Hospital, St. Lukes, p. 117. Lock Hospital, Hyde Park Corner, p. 121. Mansion House, p. 63. Mint, Tower Hill, p. 50. Mercers' Hall, Chcapside, p. 73. Middle Row, Holborn, p. 83. Merchant Taylors' Hall, Threadneedle Street, p. 58. School, Suffolk Lane, p. 152. Middlesex Hospital, p. 77. Monument, Fish Street Hill, p. 99. Military Asylum, Chelsea, p. 111. Melbourne House, Whitehall, p. 146. Northumberland House, Charing Cross, p. 96. Newgate, Old Bailey, p. 117. Olympic Theatre, Wych Street, p. 155. Pindar, Sir Paul, Bishopsgate Street, p. 73. Piccadilly, p. 83. Physicians' College, Warwick Lane, p. 53. Painter Stainers' Hall, Little Trinity Lane, p. 95. Pantheon, Oxford Street, p. 155. Prerogative Will Office, Doctors' Commons, p. 105. Queen's Head, OM, Islington, p. 139. Russell Square, and Statue of Duke of Bed- ford, p. 116. Somerset House, Strand, p. 42. ^ Interior Quadrangle, ibid. South Sea House, Threadneedle Street, p. 72. Skinners' Hall, Dowgate Hill, p. 74. Stationers' Hall, Ludgate Street, p. 76. Smithfield Market, p. 51. , Sadlers' Hall, Cheapside, p. 58. Serjeants' Inn Hall, Chancery Lane, p. 98. Staple's Inn Hall, Holborn, p. 99. Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate Street, p. 112. Sessions' House, Clerkenwell, p. 102. Spencer House, Green Park, p. 111. Stock Exchange, Capel Court, p. 130. Sadler's Wells Theatre, Islington, p. 131 . Temple Bar, Strand, (See Vignette), p. 141 Trinity House, Tower Hill, p. 67. Town Hall, Borough, p. 68. Tower of London, p. 48. Another View, p. 103. Temple, Middle, Hall, p. 78. Tall)0t Inn, Borough, p. 140. Thomas's, St. Hospital, Borough, p. 142. Tablet, &c., in Pannier Alley, p./34. United Service Club House, New, p. 158. Vintners' Hall, Upper Thames Street, p. 160. White Hart, Old, Bishopsgate Street, p. 45. Whittington's College, College Hill. p. 54. Waterman's Hall, St. Mary's Hill, p. 94. Winchester House, Winchester Street, p. 95 Westminster Hall, p. 110. Bridge, p. 115. West India Docks, Poplar, p. 131. CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. Allhallows, Bread Street, p. 93. Mark Lane, p. 108. London Wall, p. 109. Upper Thames Street, p. 154. Antholin, St. Watling Street, p. 91. Anne's, St. Soho, p. 106 Austin, St., Watling Street, p. 102. Bartholomew the Great, St., West Smithfield, p. 114. Bennet, St. Fink, Threadneedle Street, p. 1 33. Botolph, St. Bishopsgate, p. 154. Catherine Cree, Leadenhall Street, p. 120. Christ Church, Spitalfields, p. 85. Newgate Street, p. 123. Blackfriurs, p. 157. Chelsea Old Church, p. 156. Clement Danes, St., Strand, p. 66. St., Clements Lane, p. 132. Dionis, St. Backchurch, Fenchurch Street, p. 74. Dunstan, St. in the West, Fleet Street, p. 67. East, St. Dunstan's Hill, p. 86. Edmund, St. the King, Lombard Street, p. 90. George's, St., Hanover Square, p. 136. Bloomsbury, p. 136. CHURCllI.S ASH I HAPELS. Giles, St., Cripplegate, p. 89. James, St., Clerkenwell, p. 87. Garlick Hill, p. 93. — Piccadilly, p. 95. .John, St. the Baptist, Savoy, p. 75. Westminster, p. 1 IJD. Lawrence, St., King Street, p. 79. Leonard, St., Shoreditch, p. 65. 'Cuke, St., Chelsea, p. 156. Mary, St. Woolnoth, Lombard Street, p. 62. Islington, p. 138. - Aldermary, p. 80. . Aldermanbury, p. 94. ' ■ Lambeth, p. 114. . — le-Bow, Cheapsidc, p. 125. — Whitechapel, p. 107. Masdalen, Old Fish Street, p. 126. at Hill, Thames Street, p. 153. Somerset, Up. ThamesStreet, p. 124. -Martin, St. Orgar, Cannon Street, p. 108. ' Outwicli, Bishopsgate Street, p. 91. Margaret, St. Pattens, p. 88. Michael, St., Cornhill, p. 81. Michael, St., Crooked Lane, p. 154. Queen Hythe, p. 123. Mildred, St., Poultry, p. 120. Bread Street, p. 114. Nicholas, St. Cole Abbey, Fish Street, p. 1(J8. North Audley Street, New Cluirfli, p. 157. Olave, St. Jewry, Old Jewry, p. 82. ' Tooley Street, p. 128. Paul's, St. Cathedral, p. 37. Covent Garden, p. 68. Peter, St.^le Poor, Broad Street, p. 96. Queen Street, Little, New Church, p. 158. Saffron Hill, New Church, p. 158. Sepulchre, St., Skinner Street, p. 128. Sloane Street, New Church, p. 157. Stephen, St., Walbrook, p. 61. Swithin, St., London Stone, p. 122. Westminster Abbey, and St. Margaret's Ciiurch, p. 41. Another View of, ibid. :^ IVJ JU' J^ 1 ri. . \Mt I'N'IVERV/A. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. 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