/ 
 
 
 
 ADVENTURE SPORT 
 AND TRAVEL ON THE 
 TIBETAN STEPPES 
 
 FERGUSSON 
 
GIFT OF 
 
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ADVENTURE SPORT AND TRAVEL 
 ON THE TIBETAN STEPPES 
 
,^,^?Ayny Jl&i^^ly -.^^^^^M^Ke^- 
 
 
ADVENTURE 
 SPORT AND TRAVEL 
 
 ON THE 
 
 TIBETAN STEPPES 
 
 W. N. FERGUSSON 
 
 F.R.G.S. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR- 
 AND THE LATE LIEUT. BROOKE, AND TIVO MAPS 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
 
 191 1 
 
'K 
 
 C'^f 
 
TO THE 
 
 (Jttemori? 
 
 OF 
 
 J. WESTON BROOKE, E.R.G.S. 
 
 FENAY HALL, IIUDDERSFIELD, ENG., 
 
 THIS JOURNEY IS FIRST 
 
 RECORDED. 
 
 '5141 i 
 
PREFATORY. 
 
 In offering this book to the piibhc I must first explain its 
 origin, and my own part in what is mainly an account of 
 two journeys taken through China and Tibet b}' the late 
 Lieutenant Brooke, F.R.G.S. 
 
 Mr. Brooke started on his first journey from Shanghai 
 on August I, 1906, and after crossing Tibet, returned to 
 Shanghai in October, 1907. 
 
 He left Shanghai on his second journey in December, 1907, 
 and travelled in Western Sechuan and Eastern Tibet until 
 December 24, 1908, when he was cruelly murdered in the 
 Independent Lolo Land. 
 
 On the second of these two expeditions Lieutenant Brooke 
 Wci3 accompanied b}' Mr. C. H. Meares ; and when that journe}^ 
 came to its untimely end, Mr. Meares returned to England 
 and wrote certain articles in the Home Press on the country 
 through which they had travelled. These created consider- 
 able interest, and Mr. Meares was urged to make of 
 his own and his friend's experiences some more permanent 
 record. But he had already been enhsted by Captain Scott 
 for the Antarctic Expedition, and must leave England early 
 in the present year for Siberia, there to purchase dogs and 
 ponies for that enterprise ; and the task which should have 
 been his has perforce fallen to me. Mr. Brooke's parents 
 have kindly placed at my disposal their son's diary and photo- 
 graphs taken on his journeys ; and of these and mv own 
 and Mv. Meares's observations of a picturesque count r}' and 
 
Prefatory. 
 
 a singular people, never visited by white men before, I hope 
 to make something which shall commemorate the real be- 
 getter of this volume, and interest the general reader to 
 whom adventure, sport, and travel in remote lands are of 
 concern. 
 
 John Weston Brooke was born at Fenay Hall, near 
 Huddersfield, in Yorkshire, in July, 1880, and went to school 
 at Repton. In 1898 he joined his county Yeomanry, the 
 Yorkshire Dragoons, and served with them in the Boer War. 
 An act of gallantry in the field won him a commission in the 
 Regular Army, and in November, 1900, he returned to Eng- 
 land and joined the 7th Hussars at Aldershot. But the 
 instinct of travel was in his blood, and in 1902 he resigned 
 with the idea of exploration in that Dark Continent which 
 has drawn, and yet draws, so heavily on the adventurous. 
 An introduction to Major Burnham, the famous American 
 Scout, then a Director of the East African Syndicate, 
 turned his thoughts in that direction, and in April, 
 1903, Mr. Brooke left England for East Africa, and was sent 
 off promptly after his arrival on an exploring expedition 
 with Messrs. BHck, Brittlebank, and Brown. " The Four 
 B.'s," as the party was called, travelled from Nairobi via 
 Mount Elgon northwards to the western shores of Lake 
 Rudolph, experiencing plenty of privations from want of 
 water, and of danger from encounters with the natives. 
 
 On January 25, 1904, a report reached England tliat the 
 expedition had been wiped out ; but a week later this was 
 contradicted, and proved to be the concoction of a runaway 
 porter. Mr. Brooke returned to England the following April 
 and apphed himself to the study of scientific subjects, the 
 more fully to fit himself for the life of an explorer. He 
 received his diploma for survey work from the Royal 
 Geographical Society, and was made a Fellow of the Society. 
 
 In ^March, 1906, Mr. Brooke sailed for India, with the 
 
Prefatory 
 
 object of organising an expedition into Tibet to investigate 
 the much debated question of the relation of the Sampo 
 and Brahmaputra Rivers. This intention, so far as India 
 was concerned, was frustrated by the Indian Government, 
 in view of the Treaty just then signed with Russia, by which 
 no stranger should be allowed to enter Tibet from India. 
 Nothing daunted, he tried to shp across over the Assam border 
 witli only two servants ; but the frontier officer, being warned 
 of his intention, was on the look out and intercepted him. 
 
 Mr. Brooke now resolved to enter Tibet from the north, 
 and left Calcutta for Shanghai in June, 1906, travelling 
 thence via Hankow, Singan, Pingliang. Lanchow, to Siningfu. 
 The journey was accomphshed in three months, and in his 
 journal Mr. Brooke speaks with gratitude of the missionaries, 
 who "treated" him "with the greatest kindness and hos- 
 pitality," and are " the true friends of travellers in that 
 country." At Siningfu he stayed for about a month, gathering 
 information and collecting ponies, yaks, and general 
 supplies. In October, 1906, the Dalai Lama arrived from 
 Urgu, whither he had fled when Sir Frank Younghusband's 
 Mission entered Lhasa three years before. Mr. Ridley, 
 of the China Inland Mission, and Mr. Brooke were lucky 
 enough to obtain an audience of the Dalai Lama, and were 
 the first Englishmen to see him. 
 
 Everything was now ready for the second attempt to reach 
 the Brahmaputra, and :\Ir. Brooke entered Tibet by the 
 Kokomer, travelling to the north of that lake to Baranr 
 Tsaidan, and southward by the Tangla Pass. The journey 
 was an adventurous one. especially so for a man ignorant 
 of the language, and whose servants were— and proved— 
 worse than useless. The party was several times in danger 
 from the Goluk robbers, and on one occasion, when riding 
 unarmed, Mr. Brooke had a hand-to-hand fight with one 
 of these ruffians. 
 
Prefator)' 
 
 On arriving at Magehulla, a place about 200 miles north 
 of his objective, he was surrounded b\- hordes of Tibetans, 
 and although he held many interviews of a friendly character 
 with Lamas, they were quite firm in assuring him that he 
 might not travel south in that direction. As soon as he packed 
 his camels the soldiers unpacked them, and, as he was one 
 against hundreds, he had eventually, to his great disgust, 
 to retrace his steps and turn again northwards. This was 
 on April 30, 1907. The party was now reduced to two men 
 and a few half starved camels, and with these he joined a 
 Mongolian chief, with whom he struck up a friendship. They 
 travelled together for some weeks, and the chief invited 
 Mr. Brooke to go home with him, wh.ere he was given 
 some good shooting, and secured some valuable sporting 
 trophies. 
 
 At Tarmor he just missed meeting Dr. Stein, the famous 
 explorer, who seems to have been in the village on the same 
 day, but neither was aware of the other's presence. 
 
 Mr. Brooke had previously met Dr. Taffel, who had ex- 
 perienced many hairbreadth escapes among the Goloks, and 
 was then himself attired as a robber, having been stripped 
 of all his possessions. 
 
 On July I Mr. Brooke again arrived at the house of his 
 good missionary friends, Mr. and Mrs. Ridley, at Siningfu, 
 where he stayed for a few days. Then, leaving for Shanghai, 
 he varied his route by going down the Yangtze River, and 
 thence made a trip to Japan and Manchuria. 
 
 On his return to China, in November, 1907, he met, at 
 Tientsin, Mr. C. H. Meares, and at once recognised in him 
 a kindred spirit. He invited Mr. Meares to join him on his 
 next journey, an expedition in Western China, the result of 
 a conversation I had held with him when we met at Ichang 
 some months before. I had spoken of the hitherto almost 
 unknown tribes who dwell in the west of the province of 
 
Prefatory. 
 
 Zechwar, and among whom I had myself travelled for some years, 
 distributing books for tlie British and Foreign Bible Society, 
 An article of mine about these people, with a map of their 
 country, had appeared in the Ro\'al Geographical Society's 
 Journal for December, 1908, being a summary of journeys 
 taken between the years 1903 and 1907. But very much 
 still remained to be learned, and Mr. Brooke suggested that 
 if he should decide to go into that province, I should 
 
 CHIEF OF THE CARAVAN WITH WHOM MR. BROOKE MADE 
 FRIENDS ON HIS RETURN. 
 
 introduce him to those chiefs with whom I had already 
 become friends. 
 
 This expedition was subsequently carried out in Mr. 
 Meares's company ; and their route coinciding with a journey 
 which I had previously planned, and not interfering with 
 my own work, we travelled for a great part of the time to- 
 gether. In Chapters I-V the reader has what story I can 
 make for him out of ^Ir. Brooke's diary, often in his own 
 words, illustrating in detail the incidents and experiences of 
 
Prefatory. 
 
 the itinerary which I have faintly outhned above. It was 
 later at Hankow that he and IMr. :Meare5 made actual 
 commencement of their main journey. After Chentu (in 
 Chapter V), where I joined them, I have been able generally to 
 write of experiences which I shared. 
 
 As I write, I recall the joy which Mr. Brooke evinced in 
 natural beauty, whether seen in the lofty mountain, with its 
 snow-capped peaks towering on high until lost in a cloud of 
 mist ; or in the rushing stream that swept madly on, in haste 
 to mingle its clear blue waters with the muddy Yangtze and 
 so be carried to the ocean ; the grassy plateau and the virgin 
 forest, with their strange, exotic, sometimes unknown animals 
 and birds— all held for him a rare and profound charm. He 
 would revel in the beds of wild flowers which grew so pro- 
 fusely and so luxuriously bloomed, carpeting the entire moun- 
 tain-side well-nigh to the snow line. I have seen him almost 
 in rapture as he chased over these beds, 12,000 to 16,000 feet 
 above sea-level, seeking out the various coloured poppies that 
 bloom at this altitude. There we found the red, the yellow, 
 the blue, the purple and mauve poppies of magical beauty 
 in that setting, though only two of them have proved new 
 to the botanist. . . . Yet a little and it was my lot 
 to go alone into the Lolo country and identify the bruised 
 and mangled body of my friend, then recovered from the 
 Lolos by the Chinese officials ; and beside him the body of 
 my adopted Chinese boy, who had gone with j\Ir. Brooke 
 as his interpreter, and who had remained faithful to the end. 
 But it is time to begin Mr. Brooke's narrative from 
 the diary which he penned while he was alive and well, the 
 picture of courage, high heart and endeavour. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 On the TlliETAN STEI'I'ES . I 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Procuring the Carav.an 8 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Across the Tsaidam and on to Lhasa 21 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 How he was Turned Back 41 
 
 CHAPTER \'. 
 
 Hankow to Chentu .... ... 54 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 Chentu to Wenchuan 7- 
 
 CHAPTER \II. 
 Sport in Wassu 89 
 
 CHAPTER Mil. 
 Hunting the Panyanc 106 
 
 CHAPTER I.\. 
 HuNTiNi; the Serow 116 
 
 CHAPTER .\. 
 Haunts ok the Budorcas . . .... 125 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Forward to Somo i44 
 
 xiii 
 
PAGE 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 The Journey to Chosschia 165 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 Through the Unexplored (;rasslani) 1S4 
 
 CHAPTER XI\' 
 N THE Land of the Cattle Thieves . 
 
 193 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 The Traffic of the Great North Road .... 206 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 Up the Tunc, River 234 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 Two Gold .Streams 234 
 
 CHAPTER XVm. 
 Mantze Religion and Customs 247 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 The C.wes of West China 262 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 Cheating to Ningyuenfu 275 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 Indepen'dent Lololand 293 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 Religion and Custo.ms of the Lolos 315 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Rescue of the Survivors and Burial of the Murdered 
 Explorer and his Interpreter 328 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 ey 
 
 The Late Lieutenant J. W. Brooke .... 
 Chief of the Caravan with whom Mr. Broolce made friends 
 
 Return ......... 
 
 Bazaar at Kumljum ....... 
 
 Wife of the Man from whom Mr, Brooke bought the Yak 
 Children of the Man from whom Mr. Brooke bought the Yak 
 Yak Caravan on March ...... 
 
 Women Weaving Tibetan Cloth ..... 
 
 Mr. Brooke with the Chinese Caravan .... 
 
 The Naichi Guide Waiting for his Kettle to Boil . 
 Kansu Girls near Sining ...... 
 
 C. H. Meares as he left Hankow, Jan. i, 1908 
 
 Ichang, where Mr. Meares Hired the Boat for the River Journ 
 
 Hauling the Boat over a Rocky Reach . 
 
 Duck Farmer Herding his Ducklings . 
 
 The Old Fort four miles west of Chungking . 
 
 .\ Chinese Peasant Girl Leading a Buffalo to Graze 
 
 A Mantze Castle and Tower ; Kiakos (on right) for Drying Corn 
 
 Conveying Pigs to the Capital ..... 
 
 On the Yangtze above the Ichang Gorge 
 
 Repairing the Wenchuan Suspension Bridge . 
 
 Chentu to Wenchuan— where we left the Min and entered the 
 
 So Tussu, his Son, and Secretary ..... 
 
 Near So Tussu's Castle ; Mountain at end of Valley sixty 
 
 distant ......... 
 
 Prince So (in centre), Mr. Meares and Mr. Brooke . 
 The Hunters Scanning the Mountain Side for Goral 
 Our Camp at Chienliangshan ..... 
 
 Mr. Brooke and his first Serow ..... 
 
 The Goral Shot by the Author at i,coo yards . 
 
 The intrepid Ho, Mr. Brooke's Cook, with two Head Coolies 
 
 Dinner in Camp ....... 
 
 Takin Shot by Mr. Meares ...... 
 
 Hunting the Takin ; a Bit of the Road .... 
 
 The Interpreter Kao ....... 
 
 Colonel Gou and his Family ...... 
 
 Tibetan Players in Comedy ...... 
 
 Tibetan Players in Tragedy ...... 
 
 The Li Fair— Chinese Mandarin ..... 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Frontispiece 
 on his 
 
 Gorge 
 mile 
 
 lavmg 
 
 127 
 138 
 141 
 146 
 148 
 
 IS2 
 
PAGE 
 
 Damba Castle 167 
 
 The Bridge of Mami, which they tore down to keep Mrs. Bishop 
 
 (Miss Isabella Bird) from Crossing ...... 171 
 
 Some Poppies near the Snow-Line . . . . . . 175 
 
 Ula and a Grass-land Tribesman . . . . . . . 179 
 
 A Bower of White Roses near Chosschia Castle— Mr. Brooke feed- 
 ing Dog ; Interpreter on left . . . . . . . 187 
 
 The Castle and Town of Damtung, where the Author healed the 
 
 Chief 195 
 
 The Guard on the Roof— Tibetan Mastiff ..... 199 
 
 Camp of the Prince's Brother — Yak in foreground .... 202 
 
 Tibetan Nurse-maid and Baby ....... 204 
 
 Black River Blacksmith and his Wife ...... 207 
 
 Encamped for Dinner — Author on left, Mr. Brooke on right . . 213 
 
 Chinese Tea-Coolie carrying 370 lbs. of Tea . . . . . 215 
 
 Hot-spring near Yukoh — and Mixed Bathing. .... 217 
 
 Capital of Yukoh . . . . . . . • • • 219 
 
 Down the Tachien-lu River ........ 225 
 
 Some of the Peaks of the Daba Range ...... 229 
 
 Herb-Gatherers of Lianghokon . . . . . . . 231 
 
 A Monastery in Bati on the Great Gold River .... 235 
 
 Group of Tribesmen in the Tachin \^alley ..... 237 
 
 A Chinese Mandarin ......... 239 
 
 The Pica Nin of Iso — Cross between Yak and Cow. . . . 243 
 
 Sunning Rice on the Chentu Plain. . . . . . . 251 
 
 A Happy Family. ......... 259 
 
 The Hong Chiao Pass ......... 265 
 
 Terra-Cotta Pigmies . . . . . . ■ ■ • 271 
 
 Tibetan Interpreter coming out of the Cave where the Terra-Cotta 
 
 Pigmies were obtained . . . . . . . . 273 
 
 Raft on the Ya River on which Mr. Brooke and Mr. Meares 
 
 Journeyed .......... 276 
 
 Bringing Raw Tea to be Packed at Yachow ..... 279 
 
 Carrying Tea over the Dahsianglin Pass for Tibetan Trade ; Average 
 
 Weight carried 200 to 400 lbs. per head ..... 282 
 
 Bamboo Rafts on the Ya River . . . . . . . 285 
 
 Lolo Caves along the Ya and Tung Rivers ..... 287 
 
 Hawking Parrots from the Ningyuenfu A^alley to Chentu ; Photo- 
 graph taken on Vashinglin, 10,000 feet above Sea-Level . . 291 
 Lolo Chiefs Hostages ......... 294 
 
 White-Blood Lolos 297 
 
 Two Lolo Chiefs, Hostages at Yuehhsi Ting ..... 301 
 
 Looking over the Wall of Ningyuenfu ; showing Route followed by 
 
 Mr. Brooke .......... 303 
 
 Town of Yueh-itse-Ting ; the Hills across the River on the Left of 
 
 the Picture arc in the Lolo Country ...... 307 
 
 Lolo Girls, aged about 18 . . . . . 311 
 
 A Lolo Musician. . . . . . . . . . 317 
 
 'Che Author in Chinese Dress ....... 335 
 
 Index ........... 339 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 On the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 " After my plans for entering Tibet from India had been 
 successfully frustrated by the Indian Government," writes 
 Mr. Brooke, " I considered it best to try and get the support 
 of the Chinese Government and, if possible, that of the Dalai 
 Lama, and so enter Tibet from the north. After a most 
 uninteresting tramp across China I reached Sining, a large 
 town in the west of Kansu Province. Here I heard that the 
 Dalai Lama was coming south from Urga and was to stay in 
 a monastery close to Sining. Mr. and ]\Irs. Ridley, the mis- 
 sionaries connected with the China Inland Mission, insisted 
 on my making their home my own, and I appreciated a rest 
 with these very pleasant people after a lonely tramp of three 
 months across China. 
 
 "The monastery of Tassu or Kumbum — the first name is 
 Chinese, the second Tibetan — where the Dalai Lama was 
 to stay for some time, had been well cleaned for the occasion, 
 before the arrival of this great potentate. The dust of ages 
 had been swept away, and the huge golden idols gleamed 
 with their varied and fiendish expressions. Incense was 
 kept continually burning in great vases in front of each. 
 The massive doors of the building were open, and the wor- 
 shippers kept coming and going, prostrating themselves on the 
 polished boards outside, incessantly muttering their prayers. 
 
 "The palace to be occupied by the Dalai Lama was a long, 
 low building, built on the side of a steep hill, which overlooks 
 the whole monastery of Tassu. The golden roofs of the 
 (11243) I B 
 
- .SpC'Ft and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 temples stood out dazzling in the sun, and long-robed priests 
 ran hither and thither from one temple to another, while 
 the devout worshippers wandered about with bowed heads, 
 counting their beads and muttering their prayers. 
 
 "As we were at the monastery three days before the Dalai 
 Lama arrived, we were at Uberty to go almost anywhere 
 we liked. We visited the courtyard where the Dalai Lama 
 Was to be entertained. His bedroom, which was very small, 
 was papered with a typically Enghsh rose wall-paper ; a 
 large bed took up most of the room, and was heavily draped 
 with bright yellow silk curtains embroidered in gold, and 
 a counterpane to match. 
 
 "Two priests were on guard, who would on no account allow 
 us to go into the room, and were very angry with the guards 
 outside for letting us come into the courtyard at all. 
 
 "On October 25, 1906, Mr. Ridley and I rode out of Sming 
 to see the Dalai Lama arrive. The roads were lined with 
 the grotesque Chinese soldiers, armed with their very ancient 
 guns, wearing their straw hats and pink coats made of cotton 
 cloth, which hung on them like sacks. The Chinese on- 
 lookers had gathered, partly because they had nothing else 
 to do, and partly because a Chinaman must see everything 
 that is going on ; but no one was over-pleased with their 
 guest, whom they had to supply with forced hospitahty. 
 In fact, for months past, the Mandarin of Sining had been 
 collecting pots and pans, and even tables, from the cottages 
 of the poor to furnish his lordship's apartments. 
 
 "As is the case with most functions of this kind, we waited 
 for a long time for any sign of the Dalai Lama and his suite. 
 At last, in the far distance, we heard the shrieking of the 
 Chinese band, and then, as the diabolical noise came closer, 
 amidst a great cloud of dust, some five or six Chinamen came 
 up, shuffling along in a gait which was neither a walk nor 
 a run. They were dressed as they liked, played as they hked. 
 
On the Tibetan Stepper 
 
 and shuffled as they hked, for it could not be called march- 
 ing. Next came the standard-bearers, in the same disorder, 
 and these were in considerable danger of being ran down 
 by the horsemen behind them. They carried long poles 
 with red flags, and all manner of curiously-designed spears 
 and tridents, which one may see outside any Chinese Yamen, 
 and which are emblems of authority and justice. Next 
 came the mounted Tibetans, in wonderful long yellow coats 
 and curious hats made of gilded wood, riding rough, high- 
 spirited ponies, which did not lend dignity to the spectacle. 
 Suddenly a distinguished-looking Tibetan galloped out of 
 the crowd and shouted to the onlookers to 'koutoii,' i.e., fall 
 prostrate on the ground in honour and reverence before his 
 lordship. We dismounted from our ponies but refused to 
 do more, so he left us to harangue the Chinese, who were 
 quite indifferent and only laughed and said rude things, as 
 our EngHsli crowd sometimes does to our respected Metro- 
 politan Police, who have learned, however, to take it better 
 than did our friend this distinguished-looking Tibetan. There 
 was more to see now, for a crowd of horsemen drew near, 
 surrounding a large yellow cloth-covered chair, which was 
 carried by four horses led by four mounted Tibetans, two 
 on each side, so that we only caught a glimpse of the occupant 
 for one second. We followed with the crowd until we reached 
 a large camp which was prepared for him outside of the 
 monastery of Kumbum. Here we found hundreds of tents, 
 all pitched in a square, with one, a Mongol tent of rich yellow 
 cloth, surrounded by a wall of the same material, where the 
 Dalai Lama was to spend the night. 
 
 "Outside the square were crowds of many nationalities 
 from different parts of Asia, Mongol Princes witli gaily-attired 
 camels, bringing presents from the north ; wild-looking 
 Tibetans with matted hair hanging down their backs, riding 
 equally wild-looking ponies, driving unwieldy yaks, thin from 
 (11243) 3 B 2 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 long travelling, perhaps from Lhasa or unknown regions 
 in Southern Tibet ; Chinese in gorgeous coloured silks, and 
 muleteers with their galled mules. 
 
 "Mr. Ridley and I donned our smartest clothes of Chinese 
 silk for the occasion. j\line was as complicated to put on 
 as a hussar's full-dress uniform is to a newly-joined subaltern, 
 but no less smart. It consisted of four coats, with four 
 different coloured silks and patterns, each being cut away 
 a little more than the one beneath it, so that a portion of 
 
 BAZAAR AT KUMBUM. 
 
 each showed in front, dark red trousers and yellow leggings, 
 which came half way up the leg, black boots which 
 were most troublesome to walk in; a large black hat 
 with turned-up brim and red tassels completed the costume. 
 A pigtail is considered unnecessary by the Tibetan. 
 
 "We intended calhng on the Dalai Lama at once, but were 
 told that he could not see us at present, stating his willing- 
 ness to receive us in a few days. We climbed up to a little tower 
 overlooking the camp, and had taken a few photographs, 
 
 4 
 
On the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 when a fanatical Tibetan knocked my camera out of m\- 
 hand and assaulted Mr. Ridley in the act of focussing ! 
 
 "Two days after this we went up to the monastery and 
 were granted an audience. After waiting a few minutes, 
 sitting on little silk cushions in the courtyard, we were brought 
 up a narrow staircase to a small room, where all sorts of 
 instructions were given us in a whisper. Our present, which 
 consisted of a fur coat, was taken in, and we followed ; we 
 bowed as we entered the door and again when we approached 
 the Dalai Lama. We then placed the light blue scarf or 
 kata (always presented on such occasions in Tibet) into 
 his lordship's hands, and he presented us with another. 
 He gave me a small image of Bhudda. Mr. Ridley received 
 a bundle of joss-sticks and a roll of Lhasa cloth. The Dalai 
 Lama asked if we had come far, and while Mr. Ridley ex- 
 plained who we were, I had an opportunity to look round. The 
 room was about thirty feet long by fifteen feet wide, and the 
 walls were draped with beautifully worked embroideries, 
 representing Bhudda and various deities. The room was 
 well warmed, and a mysterious scent of incense pervaded 
 the atmosphere. The Dalai Lama sat in front of us, cross- 
 legged, on silk cushions which were placed on a table about 
 four feet high, so that his feet were on a level with our faces 
 as we talked with him. His face did not show the slightest 
 trace of expression ; he greeted us with a slight forward 
 movement of his body, but nothing like a smile ever ap- 
 proached his face as we conversed. 
 
 "Dr. Sven Hedin says that he had never seen such a gentle, 
 pleasant face as that of the Tashi Lama, and I can say I have 
 never seen such a hard, expressionless face as that of the 
 Dalai Lama. One could not help thinking that he must 
 have trained his features to resemble the unsympathetic 
 emptiness of the brazen images of the country. He asked 
 if I had come from the other side of the world, and if the 
 
 5 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 English king had sent me to see him. Mr. Ridley told him 
 that the Enghsh were a kind people, and that he was sure 
 that if he would come to India to meet them and learn to 
 know tliem, he would not mind their coming to his country. 
 After about half-an-hour's talk, which was mostly on our 
 side, I asked if I might photograph him, but he refused. With 
 a low bow we backed out of his presence ; as we backed his 
 features relaxed into a faint smile, a great rehef after our 
 grave interview. 
 
 "So ended our audience with the Dalai Lama, his first, I 
 believe, with an Enghshman." ]Mr. Brooke's notes and 
 diary carry on the narrative of his experiences after leaving 
 the Lama's presence. But, for clearness' sake, it may be well 
 briefly to indicate what these were, leaving a detailed story 
 to other chapters. 
 
 From Kumbum Mr. Brooke went to Tankar, a small city 
 some thirty miles to the north, where he purchased yaks 
 for the transportation of his party and their supphes — nearly 
 fifty of these slow and stupid animals. Leaving this border 
 town he plunged into Tibet, crossed the Kokonor plain, 
 passed to the north of the lake, and after much difficulty 
 reached Baramtsaidam. Here they found a Mongohan, who 
 traded camels for Lieutenant Brooke's yaks, but the Mongol 
 got the best of the bargain. Mr. Brooke refitted his caravan 
 at much additional expense and continued his journey, cross- 
 ing with considerable hardship the high passes, then covered 
 deep with snow. 
 
 There was much difficulty in finding grass for his camels 
 and fuel to cook the necessary food for his party. 
 
 Finally he reached a point within a few days' journey 
 of Lhasa, and had a long interview with the intractable 
 guards stationed at the border of the Lhasa territory. There 
 was much delay, and Mr. Brooke made several detours in 
 the hope of evading the guards, but v.'as always unsuccessful. 
 
 6 
 
On the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 In the end he was forced to turn his back on his goal, the source 
 of the Brahmaputra, which, after months of weary travel, 
 he had almost reached ; with a sad heart and weary tread 
 he turned north. On his retreat he made friends with the 
 Chief of a Mongolian caravan returning from Lhasa and 
 joined this party, and proceeding almost due north came out 
 in Turkestan, and then crossed into Mongoha. He shot 
 much game on this journey, and sent home one of the finest 
 heads of an ovis ammum ever seen in England. After some 
 months in Mongolia he returned to Sining and Lanchow 
 and thence travelled almost due south across Kansuh and 
 Sechuan provinces as far as Chungking. 
 
 From Chungking, in October, 1907, he took boat down 
 the Yantze River and spent the winter in Japan and Corea. 
 
 It was on his way down and at Ichang that I first met 
 Mr. Brooke. We had a long talk on our experiences in China 
 and Tibet. I happened to tell him of that part of the country 
 in which I was particularly interested, that inhabited by the 
 eighteen tribes of Western Sechuan. " Don't be surprised," 
 he said, " if I come up your way next spring." At Shanghai 
 he met Mr. Edgar of the China Inland Mission, who is also 
 interested in Western China and Tibet, and their meeting 
 decided him to come west. Two and a-half months were spent 
 in Japan and Corea. On his way back to China he met, at 
 Tientain, Mr. C. H. Meares, who agreed to join him in further 
 travel. Hankow was to be their starting point. Mr. Meares 
 went then straightway overland, while Mr. Brooke himself 
 went by Shanghai, to make necessary arrangements for the for- 
 warding of money and supplies for the caravan. They met 
 again at Hankow, and from this port they travelled together, 
 until separated by the untimely death of Mr. Brooke. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 Procuring the Caravan. 
 
 After the interview with tlie Dalai Lama, Mr. Brooke said 
 good-bye to his friend Mr. Ridley, and started for Tankar 
 to purchase the necessary yaks and ponies needed for his 
 expedition. Tankar is a Chinese frontier town, where a 
 considerable trade is carried on with Tibetans ; it is situated 
 on the Siho or West River, about twenty-four miles nortli-west 
 of Kumbum and twenty miles east of Toba, the Mohammedan 
 stronghold. The town is of some commercial importance, as a 
 kind of depot for Chinese merchants trading with Tibetans. 
 Hither, from Lhasa, come the caravans of the Dalai Lama. 
 That dignitary drives no small trade with the Chinese, and 
 this town being on a direct route between Mongolia and Lhasa, 
 large caravans pass through annually in the fourth moon 
 on their way to the " Sacred City." To this town the Tibetans 
 of the Kokonor (Blue Lake) district bring in their produce, 
 which consists of salt, hides, wool, sheep, cattle, horses ; and 
 trade them with the Chinese merchants for cotton goods, 
 red felt, wine, snuff, tea, grain, coarse hemp bags and sundry 
 other articles which Tibet imports from China. The 
 majority of the inhabitants of the town are Chinese, but some 
 Tibetans and Mongolians also live on the street, and every 
 day large caravans may be seen camping outside the gate 
 on the grassy commons that surround the town ; the writer 
 camped there on his first attempt to reach the Kokonor district 
 in July, 1895. Tankar, moreover, is of some pohtical and 
 strategical importance and was originally a military outpost. 
 
Procurinix the Caravan. 
 
 Here the Sining Amban receives the Mongolian Princes once 
 a year and distributes presents in the name of the Emperor. 
 Ten miles to the east may be seen part of the Great Wall, in 
 which the gate called Kwanmen is now in ruins, but at which 
 a guard of soldiers was formerly stationed. 
 
 The town was once within Tibetan territory, but the Chinese 
 have gradually swallowed up the district for its agriculture. 
 
 Along the West River are narrow gorges which make the 
 entrance to Tankar Valley very difficult ; the Chinese took 
 advantage of these natural defences during the Eastern 
 rebellion to keep the Mohammedans in check. 
 
 The approach from the east is charming ; a beautiful grove 
 surrounding a water mill near the city gate first greets one, 
 while some beautiful temples stand out on the hills in the 
 background. 
 
 There is one principal street lined on either side by shops, 
 in which are to be found Chinese wares and goods for bartering ; 
 grain and food-stuffs, beads, earrings, hair ornaments, pots, 
 saddles, ropes, boots and so forth are all displayed. The 
 Yamen opens out into the street, and so do a small lamasery 
 and several wool depots ; the houses of the citizens and 
 representative Tibetans and the City Temple fill up most 
 of the space within the walls of this border town. Outside 
 the gates are small suburbs, mostly occupied by Mohammedans. 
 Strewn along the streets and suburbs will be found the Chinese 
 pedlar or travelhng merchants with their small wares spread 
 out on mats, waiting for their opportunity to fleece the Tibetan 
 or Mongohan traveller as he passes through. Yaks are driven 
 in and sold for beef, their average price being from 5 to 7 taels 
 each, while young ones in ver}'^ good condition may bring 
 from 7 to 12 taels. A good pony costs from 25 to 30 taels. 
 The tael up here equals about three shillings. 
 
 While Mr. Brooke was delayed here trying to secure his 
 yaks, Dr. Taffel, a German traveller, arrived from Tibet, 
 
 9 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 having been robbed for the third time by the Golok, a famous 
 brigand tribe inhabiting the region south of the Kokonor. 
 When Dr. Taff el arrived at Tankar lie had little left but what 
 was on his back, and was dressed like one of the famous Golok, 
 in a sheep-skin coat, Tibetan boots and fur cap, with a girdle 
 round his waist and his gown tucked to the knee. He narrated 
 the story of his narrow escapes from the hands of these 
 notorious nomads, who gain their livelihood by driving away 
 their neighbours' cattle, attacking caravans, waylaying 
 travellers, whether foreigners, Chinese or Tibetans. Dr. Taffel's 
 adventures, however, did not cause Mr. Brooke to hesitate 
 to continue his journey, and he proceeded with his negotia- 
 tions for securing his caravan. Dr. Taff el gave him a good 
 deal of information from his lengthy experience in the country 
 regarding the price and quality of the animals required, and 
 the day after this meeting Mr. Brooke left Tankar and pro- 
 ceeded to a village some twenty miles away, where the yaks 
 were to be procured. 
 
 That night he put up in a little house occupied b}- a half- 
 caste Chinaman, where he had his first meal of tsamba and 
 buttered tea, the staple food in this part of the country as well 
 as in Mongoha and Tibet. In these regions the frontiers are 
 distinguished by deviations of diet. In spite of the political 
 boundary established by the Chinese, they are constantly 
 encroaching on Tibetan and Mongolian territory. On the 
 other hand, while the Chinese trader soon learns to eat and 
 even relish Tibetan food in Tibet, he would not think of living 
 on it in China, where it is always referred to as the food of the 
 barbarian. Tsamba is parched barley, ground into rather 
 fine meal and mixed into dough with tea and butter ; when 
 kneaded to the proper consistency, just hard enough not to 
 stick to one's hands, it is taken out of the wooden bowl which 
 serves for plate, cup and saucer combined, and is held in the 
 hand, while the cup is filled with tea, and one makes one's 
 
 lO 
 
ProcLirine the Caravan. 
 
 meal by biting a piece out of the dough and sipping the buttered 
 tea. Buttered tea is made in this part of the country by 
 breaking a piece of Hankow brick tea into rather small pieces 
 and placing them in a copper pot, in which milk and water 
 are kept boihng. This pot is kept constantly on the stove, and 
 tea may be served at almost any hour of the day or night. 
 When the tea is poured into the wooden basin, a lump of 
 butter, half the size of an egg, is put in ; this floats on the 
 top and when dissolved leaves conspicuous the yak hairs 
 the Tibetan thinks necessary to hold together and give 
 flavour to the butter, which can now easily be skimmed off 
 or blown to one side of the basin while one drinks from the 
 other side. When the diner has satisfied his appetite, supposing 
 him to have, like most Tibetans, a long tongue, he proceeds 
 to wash his bowl by licking it clean. If, however, he is un- 
 fortunate enough to be tongue-tied, he must then use his 
 finger to wipe the bowl out and finish by licking his finger 
 clean ; nothing must be allowed to go to waste in a country 
 where food is so scarce and precious. Brooke's half-caste's 
 wife did all the work and appeared very cheerful. She wore 
 her hair in two plaits down her back. Two broad blue-cloth 
 stoles, one attached to each braid of hair, hung down her 
 back and were covered with stones, large cash and other 
 trinkets, which must have weighed several pounds. This 
 is the border Tibetan fashion, but Brooke was told the 
 lady was of Turkish descent. Next morning, on going into 
 the kitchen, Mr. Brooke found an old Lama, his host and four 
 strong children all munching away at tsamba, while the old 
 lady was making scones in an iron pot. These she heated 
 over an argol fire. There being no wood in the locahty, the 
 excretum of the yak is dried by plastering it on the sides of 
 the house, and when dry this makes very good fuel ; that is, 
 when one knows how to use it, but it is slow, tedious work 
 to any one not accustomed to the use of this fuel to attempt 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 to cook a meal on it. After the meal was over the husband 
 spent the da}' in nursing the baby, while his wife attended 
 to the work. Mr. Brooke spent the day in bargaining for yak, 
 and succeeded in selecting twenty-five animals out of the herd 
 at 14 taels each. The price went up as usual as soon as it 
 was known a foreigner wanted to purchase, and unless his 
 middleman was exceptional we may rest assured that that 
 
 IK MAN FROM WHOM MR. BROOKK liOL'GHT 
 THE YAK. 
 
 indispensable person did not close this bargain with an empty 
 pocket, since every middleman expects to make at least 
 20 per cent, out of every bargain he drives. Mr. Brooke 
 also engaged a yak driver, who was supposed to understand 
 the loading and management of the clumsy and stupid brutes. 
 After securing the animals and seeing them started on their 
 way to Tankar, Brooke returned to Sining to pick up his 
 belongings and say good-bye to the Ridlcys, While he was 
 
Procuring" the Caravan. 
 
 there their Kttle boy died, and he left them in sorrow. Mr. 
 Brooke never forgot the kindness shown to him by these 
 good people, and I often heard him speak of them while in 
 Sechuan. Here he again met Dr. Taffel, and they travelled 
 together half way to Tankar, where their road separated, 
 and Brooke, not having a servant or escort, travelled 
 the remainder of the road alone. "When about live miles 
 
 CHILHREN OF THE MAX FROM WHOM MR. 
 BROOKE BOUGHT THE YAK. 
 
 from Tankar a Tibetan overtook him, and for some time 
 appeared most friendly, riding alongside and trying to converse. 
 Suddenly he snatched at Mr. Brooke's reins and, pulling his 
 pony up and at the same moment drawing his sword, an 
 instrument which every Tibetan is provided with in these 
 parts, he succeeded in striking Brooke over the head with it. 
 The blow was weak and did little damage, and Brooke, 
 slipping off his pony, kept it between himself and his sudden 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 antagonist. Finding this defence uncertain he rushed in at 
 close quarters and pulled the Tibetan off his pony, dragging 
 him about on the ground, which exhausted himself un- 
 necessarily. Finally he succeeded in securing his enemy's 
 sword, but though he struck at him with the w^eapon 
 the Tibetan's sheep-skin coat was so hard and thick that the 
 blow^ did little more than cut the garment slight!}'. The 
 Tibetan now rushed Brooke in turn and recovered the 
 sword, but Brooke so kept hold of him that he had no 
 opportunity of using it, and my friend managed to secure 
 the weapon a second time and hurled it into the mountain 
 stream which roared beside them. The Tibetan bolted off 
 to try and recover it, and Brooke spent this breathing space 
 in trying to kick up a stone out of the hard road ; but 
 the Tibetan, noticing what he was at, left the sword and 
 rushed against Brooke, knocking him over and trying himself 
 to secure the stone, still fast in the ground. Brooke secured 
 another stone, but was by this time so exhausted that he had 
 little strength left to use it and only just managed to give the 
 Tibetan a bump on the head. They closed again, and Brooke 
 managing to get on top, banged his opponent's face with 
 his fist, but it seemed to have Httle effect. The Tibetan 
 then got on top and pounded his enemy on the forehead 
 with small stones. Brooke now^ managed to get in a stroke 
 under the Tibetan's chin which stunned him a little, and he 
 succeeded in getting away. His own horse was grazing close 
 by and he managed to catch and mount him. As he rode 
 off he looked back and saw the Tibetan do likewise, only 
 riding in the opposite direction. Fortunately he did not 
 appear to have any accomplices. Brooke finally arrived at 
 Tankar bleeding and exhausted. He found his boy just 
 lighting a lamp to come and look for him. The servant 
 professed to be very much distressed that he was not with 
 his master to help him against the Tibetan, but after 
 
 14 
 
Procuring the Caravan. 
 
 Brooke got better acquainted with this worthy, he perceived 
 that he was, in fact, dehghted not to have been with liim. 
 In truth, the boy proved to be a coward in every respect. 
 
 Two Mandarins called on Brooke next day and appeared 
 most sympathetic. They stated that soldiers had been sent 
 off, soon after he arrived, in pursuit of the Tibetan, and had 
 captured him early that morning ; and they wanted to 
 know what punishment he thought should be inflicted. 
 Brooke said that for such a crime in his country a man 
 would be given several years' imprisonment, with nothing 
 but bread and water to sustain hfe. The Mandarins replied 
 they had a similar law in their country ; and nine months 
 later Brooke saw the Tibetan still retained in the prison 
 at Sining. Brooke's wounds, which consisted of a cut on 
 his head and some bruises on his forehead, soon healed. 
 On the 1 8th of November he packed the forty- five unwieldy 
 yaks that composed his caravan, together wdth eight 
 Chinamen in all, including an interpreter from the Amban 
 at Sining, who had some influence on the robbers of the 
 Kokonor district. It took about five hours to pack the 
 caravan, and, as usually happens on the first day of an ex- 
 pedition, the loads tumbled about, frightening the yaks into 
 a mad stampede, so that only a few miles were accom- 
 phshed before encamping. The second day was most 
 disastrous ; the tent poles were broken during the night by 
 some of the yaks smashing into it, his theodolite and plane 
 table were also smashed during the march by the clumsy 
 creatures. These disasters greatly affected the scientific 
 results hoped for from the expedition. Late in the evening 
 the yaks were tied up to the line rope, which is fastened by 
 pegs or tied to great tufts of grass, and to this rope all the 
 animals are attached. Senerh, his boy, foolishly went too 
 close to one of the semi-savage yaks, whose horn came in 
 contact with one of the boy's ribs with such force that he was 
 
 15 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 compelled to ride every day for a month, and was able to do 
 no work. The country was now covered with grass and 
 undulating hills, on which large herds of cattle were seen 
 grazing. The people were friendly but quite on the alert, 
 as a dreaded band of Golok was reported to be roving about, 
 and there was no telling when or where they might pounce 
 upon some herd and drive them off into some secluded valley, 
 and thus get them away into their own country, which reall}' 
 lies south of the Yellow River. At last they came in sight 
 of the Kokonor and camped by the lake. During the night 
 there was a heavy fall of snow, which had the effect of making 
 his boys move even more slowly than the notoriously slack 
 Kansuite is in the habit of doing. Packing the animals next 
 morning proved a difficult job, as the men were not used to 
 the intense cold. Their caravan moved slowly, as yaks cannot 
 travel more than eight or ten miles per day, especially if they 
 are on a long journey. During the march Mr. Brooke shot 
 a wild pony called a kyang, the meat of which proved to be 
 very good eating. It is impossible to say whether these 
 animals are ponies or mules ; they seem to be quite a distinct 
 species and do not interbreed with the Tibetan and Mongolian 
 ponies that roam about the plains in a semi-wild state. He 
 only heard of one instance of a hybrid Mongolian pou}' 
 and wild kyang. They are quite distinct from any species 
 of the horse, mule or donkey, having a mule's tail, and mane, 
 nose and ears like a horse ; they can be easily caught when 
 they join a large herd of Mongolian ponies feeding on the 
 plains. They are very fleet, however, and when feeding 
 by themselves would be almost impossible of capture. 
 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Waddell, in his most valuable book, 
 " Lhasa and its Mysteries,"* thus describes the kyang : — 
 " Passing along under the flank of Chumolhari, we found 
 that the apparently bare desert plain, as we traversed it, 
 
 * Murray. 
 16 
 
Procuring the Caravan. 
 
 was freely studded over with clumps of grass and weeds 
 between the pebbles, for the plain was thickly strewn with 
 loose pebbles and sandy gravel like the dried-up bed of a 
 sea or lake ; and this loose gravel was very trying to walk 
 on, and for the transport animals, as it wore out their shoes 
 and lamed them. 
 
 " Browsing on this scanty herbage, which curiously included 
 many thistles, were hundreds of large wild asses, the kyang 
 of the Tibetans, in troops of tens and twenties or more. At 
 first we took them for detachments of Tibetan Cavalry, the 
 wild horsemen of the Changtang, as they came galloping along 
 in a whirlwind of dust, then executed a perfect wheel-round, 
 then extended out in a line at regular intervals, and advanced 
 again ; and as if at the word of command reformed into close 
 order and came to an instant halt. Several of them galloped 
 towards us and stood looking at us, out of curiosity, as near 
 as 300 yards away, and a few trotted through the lines of our 
 baggage mules, doubtless recognising their family relation- 
 ship. They are pretty animals, more like ponies than asses, 
 and move with great grace. They are about the size and 
 shape of zebras, but with better heads. Their general colour 
 is a rich golden brown with jet black points and stripes. When 
 I was in North-Western Tibet, evading the frontier guards, 
 I have seen these colours form startling kaleidoscopic varieties 
 of tints in the bright sunshine, at one time bright sandy yellow, 
 almost white, changing to golden chestnut and deep black, 
 giving the appearance of a caravan of black-coated men 
 moving amongst hght-coloured laden animals. The Tibetans 
 say that these animals are untameable, but they do not look 
 so very wild. I cannot help thinking that here, in the liome 
 of these wild asses, we have a great field for breeding mules 
 for the Indian Army, the supply for which never can meet 
 the demand ; and to obtain these insufficient numbers we 
 have yearly to ransack the whole world, sending agents to 
 (11243) 17 c 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 Persia, Spain, Italy, China, Yunnan and America, at enormous 
 cost. 
 
 " As we march on and on across this great plain, with nothing 
 to relieve the dulness but these herds of roving kyang and 
 the encircling hills beyond, the eye wearies of the stretches 
 of loose gravel with its stunted tufts of withered grass, and 
 the monotony of it all oppresses the spirits." 
 
 Several of these animals were found at Lhalu ; they had 
 been given as a present to the Dalai Lama, who had them 
 fed and stalled there. Colonel Waddell got close enough 
 to photograph them, and, later, two of them were caught 
 by members of the jNIission, to be as a present to the King. 
 Colonel Waddell classifies the wild ass as Eguus hemionus* 
 
 Quite early in the afternoon Brooke and his party 
 came to an old Tibetan fort or stock yard, into which they 
 drove their yaks and ponies for the night, as the place was 
 infested with robbers. Four Tibetans came about, whose 
 appearance did not inspire confidence. They were particu- 
 larly anxious to see Brooke's fire-arms. He had determined 
 not to show them unless it was really necessary, knowing 
 that a savage's awe of a gun is always greater before he knows 
 anything about its mechanism. However, wishing to be 
 civil, he let his visitors each handle one of the four guns he 
 had with him. A fourth man tried to get hold of his ^Mauser 
 pistol which, after his experience with the Tibetan near Tankar, 
 Brooke always carried in his belt. Discovering the game 
 in time and unfastening his Mauser from his belt, he com- 
 manded the men to hand back his rifles, which they evidently 
 intended to make their own. As it happened there were no 
 cartridges in the magazines, even if they had known how to 
 use the rifles ; anyhow, tliey quietly handed them back to 
 the boy. 
 
 Next day on the march four horsemen tried to surprise 
 
 * " Lhasa and its .Mysteries," page 484. 
 18 
 
Procuring the Caravan. 
 
 the caravan, but seeing there was quite a large party they 
 did not press an attack. At evening the party again en- 
 camped early and Mr. Brooke went out shooting. He had not 
 gone far before he discovered the four gentlemen they had 
 met during the march, sneaking over a hill not far away, 
 their four horses tied to tufts of grass close by. The worst 
 of this country is that every one suspects every one else of 
 being a thief. The traveller may be out shooting when 
 suddenly he discovers that crawling along behind him, only 
 a few hundred yards away, are several men, evidently on his 
 track to see what he is about. This puts an end to the hunting 
 expedition for that day, for he has not the slightest idea 
 who his stalkers are, but infers from their behaviour that 
 they would as soon take a shot at the strange hunter as they 
 would at the natural game of the country. There is a distinct 
 difference between the professional and amateur robber — 
 the professional is deliberate and goes in for big hauls, attacking 
 large herds and driving off a good number of cattle at each 
 attack ; the amateur picks off small caravans, appropriating 
 whatever goods he may obtain for the benefit of his party, 
 but seldom taking life, unless actually driven to it. Brooke 
 returned to camp, and during the night was aroused by a 
 terrible barking of dogs. Turning out of his warm sleeping 
 bag, he found the men hard at work piling the grain bags 
 in position to fortify the camp. They all worked hard getting 
 the bags in place, but the howls of a pack of wolves came 
 closer and closer, and presently the camp was surrounded. 
 Fortunately the yaks and horses were securely tethered to the 
 hne ropes, and though they made strenuous efforts to escape 
 they did not succeed in getting loose. A few volleys from 
 the four rifles fired from behind the grain bags so surprised 
 the wolves that they turned and fled, leaving some of their 
 companions dead on the ground. 
 
 The next day the party had a good deal of difficulty in 
 (11243) 19 c 2 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 crossing a river which was partly frozen, and got most of the 
 baggage wet, which necessitated the delay of one day to dry 
 the grain. They next crossed over a high pass about ii,ooo 
 feet above sea-level that divides the Kokonor from the Tsai- 
 dam. There was a good deal of snow on the pass, but they 
 succeeded in getting over without incident. They finally 
 arrived at a Mongolian encampment and were directed to 
 the chief, Chinghiwang, who was camped a few days' march 
 farther on ; and there Brooke hoped to spend several days 
 reorganising the caravan, changing his slow and tedious yak 
 for camels before proceeding on his journey. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 Across the Tsaidam and on to Lhasa. 
 
 They reached the lake of Dulan and camped on its grassy 
 shore in a rich pasture land, where the only difficulty was 
 in finding firewood, which had to be carried for a long dis- 
 tance. Mr. Brooke called on Chinghiwang, who was camped 
 not far away. He found him living in a tent very similar 
 to the other Mongolians on the plain, with very little to show 
 that he was a Prince; indeed, a Scottish crofter's cottage would 
 have been a palace to his bare little tent. A Mongohan's 
 tent in this part of the country consists of a framework of 
 wood, which comes down like the ribs of a boat ; only turned 
 upside down. These ribs are joined by a sort of trellis work, 
 and the whole frame collapses, dividing into four sections 
 when it is desired to move on to other grazing grounds. The 
 roof was formed of a number of sticks resting on the wall, 
 and all were tied to a ring of iron in the centre of the roof, 
 which formed the chimney. The wliole framework was then 
 covered with felt or a coarse cloth made of yak's hair. In 
 the centre was a raised stone fireplace bearing an iron frame, 
 on which an argol fire was brightly burning, and with a pot 
 of tea always on the boil. Through the chimney hole in the 
 roof the smoke satisfactorily escaped, and these tents are 
 really comfortable. From the walls of the chief's tent hung 
 several old fuse guns and skins of butter, while on the floor, 
 around the sides of the tent, were a number of Chinese skin 
 boxes, on one of which was placed some Tibetan Scriptures, 
 carefully wrapped in a cloth and bound between two 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 boards, which formed the cover. These are never opened 
 till a priest comes, when they are read for three days con- 
 tinuously with great ceremony and feasting. 
 
 The Prince had recently returned from Lhasa, and as the 
 party sat around the fire, cross-legged, eating mien which 
 had been boiled in milk (mien is vermicelli imported from 
 China and is counted quite a delicacy by both the Mongolians 
 and Tibetans), he told most vivid tales of the difficulties that 
 had to be encountered on the way, especially at this time 
 of the year. Mr. Brooke was assured that it would be im- 
 possible to make the journey with yak, as the passes would 
 be deep in snow and they would not be able to procure fodder 
 on the heights, and the yak were so slow it would be necessary 
 to camp on the passes. He felt that the Prince was paving 
 his way to secure a good price for the camels, which he was 
 anxious to supply, and also to depreciate the value of the 
 yaks, which he hoped to obtain in part payment for his camels. 
 Brooke insisted that his yak could easily make the 
 journey, as they were young and in good condition, and added 
 that he had paid 14 taels apiece for them in order to secure 
 first-class animals. After an hour's interview Brooke 
 returned to his tent, still undecided as to what was really 
 the best thing to do. The next day the Prince invited him 
 again to his tent. He had prepared quite a banquet and 
 invited a number of friends. They all sat round the fire 
 cross-legged as before, and began the feast by drinking tea 
 and eating tsamba. The second course was boiled mutton, 
 of which every man seized a piece in his hand, gnawing it and 
 smacking his lips in a most appreciative way. After the mutton, 
 Chinese wine was offered, a beverage distilled from grain, 
 and (if no water has been added during its long journey to 
 the Mongohan tent) usually found to contain about 65 per 
 cent, of alcohol, though the stronger it is the more these 
 dwellers on the highlands appreciate it. The Prince again 
 
Across the Tsaidam and on to Lhasa. 
 
 introduced the subject of camels and promised to sell 
 Brooke some at a reasonable price, if he would not continue 
 his journey to Lhasa. This suggestion Brooke would not 
 entertain, and again asserted his intention of proceeding with 
 his yaks. The Prince insisted that Brooke should wait 
 a few days until his caravan of camels — which had been 
 sent to Sining laden with hides, wool and butter, and were 
 to bring back grain — should return ; assuring him that it 
 would not be more than a few days before they arrived. He 
 stayed. 
 
 Meanwhile he made friends with some of the people, and 
 especially with one old man, who was troubled with rheu- 
 matism, and whom, by the use of his galvanic battery, 
 Brooke was able to relieve. In return the old man under- 
 took to initiate his physician in the mystery of understand- 
 ing the points of a good camel. His instructions came to 
 this : — " Old camels are not valuable, as they will not stand 
 the fatigue of a long journey ; their teeth are short and they 
 cannot masticate the coarse grass of the highlands of Tibet. 
 Their hump sags or droops, and they lack spring in their gait. 
 A young camel is alert ; he is always on the look-out for food, 
 and is more readily startled by a stranger or by such moving 
 objects as he may see even at some distance from the road. 
 His teeth are long, his hump is erect and he has a spring in 
 his movement which is easily detected." 
 
 When the caravan returned the Prince brought over four 
 of his poorest camels, which he offered to trade for 
 Brooke's forty-two yak : three of his original caravan having 
 died since crossing the partly frozen river on the other side 
 of the pass. Brooke expressed indignation at this offer, 
 and said he had come to the Prince believing him to be an 
 honest man, who would not take advantage of a stranger, 
 and he demonstrated the camels offered to be old and useless. 
 The Prince replied that as sure as God was in Heaven he 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 could not tell a lie, and repeated that the four animals he 
 had brought were the pick of his flock. 
 
 He departed, taking the animals with him, but returned 
 next day, bringing four better camels. Mr. Brooke told 
 him that if he took camels at all he would need at least ten, 
 and that he would accept the four now brought in exchange 
 for his yaks on condition that the Prince sold him six others 
 at a fair price, and that he should keep possession of his yak 
 until the bargain was completed. The Prince readily agreed, 
 and nine other camels were chosen from the pack, averaging 
 about 35 taels apiece, while the four young ones were about 
 55 taels. When the animals were packed Brooke found 
 that he had just sufficient to carry his outfit comfortably 
 and allow his men to ride. The last camel to be brought 
 was one with a tuft of hair out of its side. Brooke some- 
 how fancied the camel, but the Prince tried in every way 
 to prove that it was not a desirable animal for such a journey, 
 stating that it ate its own wool when it was hungry, which 
 accounted for the bare spot on its side. He shook his head, 
 indicating that the animal was no good, but his features 
 betrayed him, and Brooke did not believe a word he 
 said ; and later, sure enough, another Mongolian told him 
 that the boys at Sining had pulled the hair off. The Prince 
 finally raised the price to 65 taels, which Brooke paid, and 
 found the animal to be the best of the bunch. 
 
 The day before they started on their long and tedious 
 journey towards Lhasa the Prince dined with Brooke. 
 As a dehcacy a dish made from Bird's custard powder and 
 sugar was provided. The Prince did not seem to relish this 
 and ate but little ; his son, however, seemed very fond of 
 sugar, and helped himself liberally. 
 
 Late in the evening of the last day he expected to spend 
 at Dulan, Senerh, his cook, in company with his Shanghai 
 boy, came into his tent and demanded that each of the men 
 
 24 
 
Across the Tsaidam and on to Lhasa. 
 
 be given 50 taels in advance ; if not they would go back. 
 Brooke ordered them out of the tent and said he would see 
 them in the morning. 
 
 The Shanghai boy, who up to this time had proved faithful, 
 now broke the news that during the days spent in camp the 
 servants, having nothing better to do, had been talking over 
 the difficulties and hardships which lay before them, and 
 had all decided to turn back. This conspiracy made it im- 
 possible to start next day, so Brooke sent the useless 
 ones out to gather firewood, and kept three of the best men 
 in camp. These he made sign a paper promising they would 
 go on, and himself agreed to send back 25 taels to each of 
 their famihes. To this plan they all agreed, much to the 
 disappointment of the useless ones, who were the originators 
 of the disturbance and who had hoped to gain something 
 for their trouble. On December 28th the party set forth, 
 leaving the rebellious and worthless men with food sufficient 
 at least to take them back to Chinese territory. Senerh, 
 the Sining boy, repented and begged to be taken along. The 
 interpreter who joined the party at Tankar, and had only 
 been engaged as far as this place, was sent back with a horse 
 and his full wages ; while the other two only got half their 
 wages, as they had been discontented, disobedient, and lazy 
 throughout the whole of the journey. 
 
 They found the camels a great comfort after the clumsy, 
 slow, brainless yaks, who were always dumping their loads 
 off by running against each other, and moved so slowly that 
 it made the march very tedious. The camels moved along 
 at about four miles an hour, keeping up the pace day after 
 day during the march ; they were much less trouble to tie 
 up at night and to find when out grazing on the plain. 
 
 During the first two days' march the road led through 
 sandstone hills, which rose from 1,500 to 2,500 feet above 
 the valleys ; the southern slopes were covered with stunted 
 
 25 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 pine trees ; they saw evidence of bear, but no wild yak or 
 ovis amniiim. On the 30th of December they crossed quite 
 a large river, flowing through rather a deep gorge which 
 sheltered it from the sun. The ice was sufficiently thick to 
 allow the camels to cross it. This river is reported to be 
 fed from Dulan Nor, but this Dulan Nor is a different lake 
 from the one on which the Prince was camped, and its 
 waters were more saltish, and the earth by its shores con- 
 tained much alkali, which hindered the grass from growing. 
 They were now nearing the swamps of the Tsaidam proper. 
 Wherever the banks of the river had cut to any depth through 
 the hills and rising ground there was evidence of conglomerate 
 rock beneath the red sandstone which appeared on the 
 surface. Passing through the rolling lands they entered 
 a large sandy plain, through which they travelled as far as 
 Baram Tsaidam, where another important IMongolian Prince 
 had his headquarters. They were guided thither by an 
 escort and interpreter in one, sent with them by Chinghiwang 
 as far as Baram Tsaidam, with orders there to hand the party 
 over to the next chief. On reaching the place they had 
 some little difficulty in finding the Mongohan tents, and 
 when they did find them it was to discover that the plain 
 on which they were encamped was almost destitute of grass, 
 and this when Mr. Brooke's camels were much in need of 
 resting a few days on good grazing ground. The ponies 
 suffered even more than the camels, for there was a good 
 deal of shrubbery about on which the latter seemed to feed 
 freely. Occasionally one of the young camels, who thought 
 he could find better fodder further away, would start off 
 on a journey by himself, looking back every few minutes 
 to see if others were following him ; when he found that 
 by this means he was unable to coax them far from camp 
 he would return, and after remaining some httle time would 
 start out on a similar search. 
 
 26 
 
Across the Tsaidam and on to Lhasa. 
 
 The day after Mr. Brooke's arrival at Baram Tsaidam 
 he was told that the Mongolian Chief did not live there, and 
 that it was impossible to procure a local guide. Taking 
 the interpreter he set out to search for someone in authority, 
 and did manage to find the house of the Mongolian Prince ; 
 but only his brother and an old Lama were at home. The 
 village was surrounded by a low mud wall enclosing a few 
 mud huts, which were dark and dirty. The Lama was sitting 
 on a large shelf in semi-darkness, a butter lamp burning 
 close by. The visitors were shown in by the Prince's brother, 
 who motioned them to a mat, where he immediately joined 
 them. Brooke, through his interpreter, informed the Mon- 
 golian of his recent visit to the Dalai Lama and the Amban 
 at Sining, who had given him a passport to cross Tibet into 
 India ; and explained that Chinghiwang had received him 
 and given him a guide to this place, where he was assured 
 that he would receive an escort to guide him on his way. 
 
 The Lama and the Mongolian talked together for some 
 time, and then they excused themselves on the ground that 
 their lord was not at home, and that they could do nothing 
 in the matter. Brooke asked them to think the matter 
 over, for though it was not his wish to make any trouble, 
 yet if he journeyed alone and anything should happen by 
 the way, the Chinese Government might hold them respon- 
 sible, as it was important, he told them, for him to get right 
 through to India. 
 
 After further discussion they said they would let him have 
 an answer in the morning, and the next day the Mongolian 
 came to his tent with a guide who was to escort him ten days 
 west to a place called by the Chinese, Dachinpa, i.e., great 
 clear plain. They afterwards learned that the story of the 
 Prince being away from home was quite a true one. The 
 day before they arrived the Golok had swept down upon 
 his herds, and had driven away loo of his ponies, and the 
 
 27 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 whole countryside had been called out to give chase. The 
 Golok come into the country in large bands and break up 
 into small parties, visiting the Mongolian encampments 
 ostensibly as traders. When they have found out where the 
 Mongolian herds are feeding and the strength of the camp, 
 they collect together again, and drive off the herds into some 
 valley, and by ways and means known to them, and in forced 
 marches, usually succeed in getting the animals clean away. 
 A band of these Golok in disguise visited Baram Tsaidam 
 the day after the ponies above-mentioned had been driven 
 off, no doubt with the idea of putting the Mongolians 
 on the wrong track of their lost possessions. Brooke 
 tried to photograph the bunch, but the moment they saw 
 the camera they ran off, while one member of the party 
 sprang toward the camera and covered the lens with his hand. 
 When the party was just ready to leave Baram Tsaidam, 
 Senerh, the cook, declared that he must go back as he had 
 run out of opium. After considerable discussion the man 
 was allowed to go. To take an opium-smoker, who had 
 no means of securing a daily supply of that drug, could only 
 have led to a great deal of trouble, and the man would be 
 worse than useless; so, from this place, Brooke went 
 forward with only five Chinese. From Baram Tsaidam to 
 Dachinpa they travelled westward over a desert covered 
 witli brushwood about six feet high, where the camels and 
 ponies belonging to the Mongolians roamed in a semi-wild 
 state. Their new jMongolian guide was a most rehgious 
 man, repeating his prayers continually. When they pitched 
 camp and the tea began to boil, he would seize the ladle used 
 for serving out the tea, and, muttering his prayers, would 
 throw a httle of the tea out of the door three times, with 
 considerable ceremony between each swing of the ladle; 
 then proceeding to serve Brooke and afterwards the other 
 members of the party. 
 
 28 
 
Across the Tsciidam and on to Lhasa. 
 
 On arriving at Dachinpa the party chose a good camping 
 ground, where there was plenty of grass for the animals, 
 and started off to find the old Mongolian Chief who was to 
 provide the new escort. All day they rode and at last reached 
 a hut where they found an old Mongolian at prayers. He 
 motioned them to sit down, but otherwise continued to chant 
 his prayers without looking up. He was dressed in a long 
 dirty robe and squatted in front of a little stool, his Buddhist 
 Bible in hand ; he wore large round spectacles and his head 
 was shaven but dirty. The guide, on entering the tent, 
 solemnly bent his head until it touched the book, waited until 
 the old Lama placed his hand upon his head, then rose and 
 took his place by the fire. After a considerable time the 
 priest dropped his voice into a low murmur, and they com- 
 menced to talk. The Mongohan Chief was not at all inclined 
 to help Brooke, but after some little conversation he 
 accepted a present from him in the form of a tin of Bryant 
 and May's matches. With these the old man seemed greatly 
 delighted, as he had never seen " self-giving fire," as he called 
 the matches, before, and he played about with them like a 
 child. He was a fierce, fat-looking old man, much like the 
 imagined ogre of nursery days. A large pot containing two 
 sheep's heads was boiling on the fire, and around the tents 
 hung quarters of frozen mutton and rolls of suet, also an old 
 gun carefully wrapped up in cloth ; just behind him were 
 a number of young goats, tethered by strings. Most of these 
 had light blue hair, dainty httle beards, and were really 
 pretty creatures. 
 
 Eventually the old Mongolian consented to send as guide 
 his own son, a fine-looking boy, who was to escort the party 
 as far as Naichi, where they were to get another guide to 
 take them on to Nagchuka. Naichi was reported to be ten 
 days south of Dachinpa. 
 
 After bidding farewell to the old Lama, who held the rank 
 29 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 of local chief, they started out to retrace their steps to their 
 own camp. In some way the guide seemed to have lost his 
 bearings, and after travelling some time did not come out 
 on the path which they had been told they should find. The 
 new guide, of course, was not to join them until next morn- 
 ing. Brooke, feeling the guide was going in the wrong 
 direction, told his boy to follow him and they struck off across 
 the plains in what he beheved to be the direction of the camp. 
 They travelled in this manner due east until they reached 
 the river upon which they were camped ; here they rested 
 and let the horses drink, when the boy suddenly cried out, 
 " Look over there. Master, you say you don't beheve in the 
 devil ; look at that." Brooke looked round and saw 
 a very curious phenomenon, similar to the scene which Mr. 
 H. Savage Landor describes having seen in the Himalayas 
 only in a more remarkable form than that seen by Brooke 
 on this occasion. It was the planet Mars having a kind of 
 game of hide-and-seek with the other stars, a very extra- 
 ordinary sight, for the planet leaped up to an angle of 30 
 degrees, then down to the right, and disappeared ; then up 
 again at a tangent, now glowing bright like an electric arc 
 lamp, now hke a little star. Brooke and his boy stood 
 and gazed in sheer amazement. Asked if he was frightened, 
 all the boy said was, " I hope it doesn't come closer. Master." 
 Brooke told him that he would explain about it to him 
 later, but never got the boy to believe any natural explana- 
 tion. The planet at that hour was just rising, and, when 
 they first saw it, was behind a mountain ; but the different 
 densities in the atmosphere reflected it in various directions, 
 according to the atmospheric power of refraction constantly 
 changing between them and the planet. 
 
 After this experience Brooke and his boy travelled 
 up the river, which was at this place quite a foaming torrent. 
 The boy grumbled very much, and persisted that they were 
 
Across the Tsaidam and on to Lhasa. 
 
 going in the wrong direction. At daybreak they found 
 themselves within two miles from the camp, which they could 
 see from the summit of a little hill on which they then stood, 
 and reached it at 7 a.m. 
 
 The guide and camel driver did not arrive till 2 o'clock 
 that afternoon, having gone many miles out of their way. 
 
 Their new guide turned up in the evening, and on January 
 27th they started for Naichi. 
 
 The first day they had a long march across an arid plain, 
 intermittent with sand, quartz, volcanic rock and shingle, 
 which was quite destitute of any kind of vegetation. They 
 crossed over a small pass called Kokstom, which was quite 
 difficult for camels to travel over because of the narrowness 
 of the road. This pass could easily be avoided by blasting 
 away a little of the rock in the gorge through which the river 
 flows. They succeeded in making the pass without any 
 accident, though it quite frequently happens that a camel 
 making a false step is thrown over the cliff and dashed to 
 pieces on the rocks in the gorge below. 
 
 They at last reached a Mongol encampment at Naichi 
 in a terrific dust storm, and camped there. 
 
 It was a barren place, where there was little grass or fuel 
 with which to build a fire. 
 
 The storm calmed down, their strange-looking tent at- 
 tracted the Mongols, and about a dozen of them came over 
 to call. 
 
 They chatted about the journey to Nagchuka, and asked 
 a large sum to guide the party thither. Brooke offered 
 50 taels, saying that he would not give a farthing more ; 
 so they went away saying as usual that they would consult 
 their Buddha about it, and let him know in the morning. 
 
 The natives told Brooke about some wild yak that 
 were in the mountains near by, and next day, guided by an 
 old Mongol, he started out to hunt them. Climbing a 
 
 31 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 precipitous mountain, the granite walls of which towered above 
 the camp, he approached the top with great care, as the 
 creatures are often to be seen grazing under the summit on 
 the opposite side. On this occasion, however, the\^ were 
 not there, and the wind blew a gale, so that it was difficult 
 work to make way round some of the cliffs without being 
 blown off, and only those who have stood on some of these 
 high peaks on the roof of the world really know what a gale 
 in Tibet means. By resting his telescope on a rock and 
 searching the valley and further mountain side Brooke was 
 able to pick out fifteen yaks grazing on the slopes at the other 
 end of the valley. He and his party at once set out, and 
 for four hours scrambled over rocks and boulders, keeping 
 under cover that they might not be sighted by their game. 
 On reaching a grassy knoll, which Brooke decided was 
 near w^here he had seen the brutes feeding, they stopped to 
 rest and look carefully about. The old Mongol hunter took 
 out his rosary, muttered something, counted his beads by 
 fives, and twisting the beads put them to his lips. This 
 was repeated live times, while Brooke sat almost frozen 
 in the piercing wind. At last the old prophet predicted a 
 successful ending to their arduous stalks, but the prophecy 
 had yet to be fulfilled, so they crept on carefully, and as they 
 reached the top of the knoll they heard stones ratthng and 
 a great yak came tearing up the other side to meet them. 
 When he was wdthin 200 yards Brooke let him have it 
 just behind the shoulder. The yak turned down the valley 
 a short distance, then stumbled and fell over a granite rock, 
 where they found him dead. 
 
 The poor old yaks have none of the quick instinct of wild 
 animals generally ; they like to have a good look at the hunter 
 before they make any attempt to get away, which may be 
 due to the fact that they are seldom hunted by the Tibetan 
 or Mongol. When once they do show the white flag they 
 
 32 
 
Across the Tsaidam and on to Lhasa. 
 
 can make pretty good time, for a short distance at 
 least. 
 
 On returning to camp Brooke was informed that a 
 Mongol would escort him to Nagchuka, if two camels were 
 added to the 50 taels offered by the foreigner. 
 
 There seemed no way out of it, and as it was winter time 
 and the passes would be difficult, Brooke agreed to the 
 demand on condition that the guide led them safely through 
 the desolate track of country that lay before them, and to 
 the famous monastery many days to the south. 
 
 So on March 6th they left Naichi, and, after travelling only 
 thirty li (ten miles) the first day, had to pitch their tent in a 
 terrific storm, which almost tore it to pieces, and would have 
 done so had they not taken it down, and waited till the 
 storm abated a little. 
 
 The following day they crossed over a small pass 15,000 feet 
 above sea-level and came down into the valley of the Dichu, 
 or Drichu. The Dri River flows past Batang, and is known 
 below that point as the Chinshachiang (river of golden 
 sand) ; but, after it has been joined by a number of tribu- 
 taries between Batang and Hsuchowfu, is known after Hsu- 
 chowfu as the Yangtzechiang, or Yantze River. But there 
 is no doubt that the Dichu, or Dri River, is the main tributary 
 of the Yangtze, which is fed from the famous chain of lakes 
 surrounding the west Kokochili range. These lakes are 
 over 16,000 feet above sea-level, as stated by Captain Wellby 
 and Dr. Sven Hedin. 
 
 Where Brooke crossed the Dichu the valley was about 
 four mile? wide, but only inhabited by wild beasts. His 
 men were stricken with mountain sickness, and thought 
 they were going to die ; the Shanghai boy gave; uj) entirely, 
 and, letting his horse go, lay down on a sand hill in utter 
 despair. Brooke had to set him on his horse, but he 
 fell helplessly off. Placed on the pony anew with the 
 
 (1 1243) 3o D 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 promise of a good thrashing if he fell off, the boy succeeded 
 in sticking to his pony, but Brooke knew from experience 
 that when a Chinaman makes up his mind that he is going 
 to die he is the most helpless object imaginable. 
 
 The following day they marched up the valley in a heavy 
 snowstorm and camped in two feet of snow, with not a blade of 
 grass for the poor animals, who had found it heavy work 
 tramping through the deep snow all day. 
 
 In the morning it was still snowing and they were in abso- 
 lute misery ; the Chinese refused to turn out of their fur 
 sleeping bags ; there was not a stick of fuel anywhere to 
 cook a bite of food or heat a drop of water. 
 
 Brooke pulled them out of bed, however, to make 
 them pack the camels. The old guide picked out his two 
 camels, or the two he would like to have had, and started 
 toward home ; but Brooke noticed him in time and made 
 him bring them back. 
 
 Six of the animals wandered off and Brooke had to 
 go after them himself, as the men all refused to do anything. 
 
 On bringing the animals back Brooke again pulled his 
 boys out of their beds, and finally they got started. That 
 night they found a camping place where the snow was not 
 so deep, and the animals were able to scratch up a little 
 grass. 
 
 They marched all the next day over a plain ; the wind 
 kept gaining in force all the morning until ii a.m. The 
 gale was running at fifty or sixty miles per hour, sweeping the 
 sand and snow before it in a great cloud, even lifting small 
 pebbles and lashing them against their faces. Great care 
 was needed in holding the caravan together and in keeping 
 their bearings, for if they got separated for fifty yards the}^ 
 would be doomed, as the trail was completely obliterated 
 in places, and it was impossible to see or even hear a call 
 for fifty yards. The temperature was 5 degrees below zero 
 
 34 
 
(1 1 243) 
 
Across the Tsciidam and on to Lhasa. 
 
 at 9 a.m., and with such a gale blowing it felt more like 20 
 degrees below zero. 
 
 To keep the party together the animals were all attached 
 by a line ; it was impossible to do more than a rough tracing 
 of the route followed that day. 
 
 They camped that night in the slielter of a sand hill. 
 Brooke went out in search of a grass plot, on which the animals 
 might find something to eat, for where their camp was there 
 was nothing but drifting sand. While out on this quest his 
 fur cap was blown away and carried off like a balloon ; it 
 fell on a frozen pond, he pursued it, and on stepping on the 
 ice he was swept to the other side as if he were on an ice sled. 
 His cap turned on its edge and went racing along hke a minia- 
 ture bicycle, and if it had not caught in a bush about a mile 
 further on, it is not likely he would ever have seen it again. 
 
 In this country it was with the greatest difficulty the tent 
 was erected, for the pegs were useless in the loose sand, and 
 the grain bags were used to hold the sides of the tent down ; 
 they were also made use of as snubbing posts for the tent 
 ropes. If the party was roughing it, so were the animals. 
 The search for fodder was fruitless, and the party had to 
 share with them some of the grain they were carrying, but 
 as there was yet a long journey before them it had to be doled 
 out very carefully. 
 
 In the morning it was much calmer, and they got under 
 way early. By 9 o'clock it commenced to blow again, as it 
 did almost every day of the journey across this barren ex- 
 panse. The camels seemed to know tliat it was worse on 
 before, and again and again tried to turn back. They were 
 getting thinner day by day, and it was really wonderful how 
 they kept up in such weather with so little to eat. Indeed, 
 they proved themselves to be much more hardy than is gener- 
 ally supposed, and not only able to stand the heat on sandy 
 plains, but also to endure the intense cold, without any pro- 
 
 37 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 lection from the fierce blasts that prevail in such elevated 
 regions. 
 
 One of the men became so ill that the caravan had to be 
 stopped for three days. On March 17th they packed him up 
 in his bedding and tied him on a camel. He was then still 
 very ill, but v^^as soon all right again. 
 
 The wonderful thing about this bleak, barren country is 
 that although the wind is driving at from fifteen to forty 
 miles an hour there is a clear blue sky, if the dust will allow 
 it to be seen. 
 
 They met a Mongol caravan with 800 camels on their way 
 to China ; Li, who was still ill, was sent back with them. 
 Brooke paid him his wages and gave him 25 taels for the 
 expense of the return journey, which caused a murmur in 
 his camp, for they said, " Why give a sick man 25 taels to 
 return ? " The Tibetan and Chinese custom is to leave any 
 person who shall fall by the wayside to die or recover, as 
 the gods may design, and in such a cruel country as this to 
 die is the only fate of any one dropping out of a caravan. 
 
 They crossed the Dungbure, which is 16,700 feet above the 
 sea, with httle delay, commencing their march at 8 a.m. 
 and pitching camp at 4 p.m. They experienced little diffi- 
 culty, although this is the highest pass on the journey between 
 Sining and Lhasa. On the top was the usual obo or pile of 
 stones, in which were erected poles, and to these were attached 
 prayer flags. Many of them hung in rags from their con- 
 stant flapping in the breeze. 
 
 The top of the pass was quite flat. On the south side, 
 some distance from the top, Brooke found hot springs 
 gushing out of the frozen earth. The}^ also caught several 
 small fish, which were identically the same as some secured 
 at Baram Tsaidam. The formation of the Dungbure range 
 was found to be similar to that surrounding the Tsaidam, 
 i.e., red sandstone over a very hard limestone conglomerate. 
 
Across the Tsaidam and on to Lhasa. 
 
 only in addition there were several volcanic spurs in sight, 
 their jagged outline giving even a more barren aspect than 
 the sloping sandstone. 
 
 At about 16,000 feet above sea-level they sighted the first 
 Tibetan tent, pitched in a sheltered nook, and some miles 
 further on there was a number of tents, and hundreds of 
 sheep and yak grazing on the slopes. 
 
 The people were ragged and unkempt, with long, shaggy 
 hair hanging down their backs ; the women were very small, 
 and the men not over 5 feet 6 inches in height. They be- 
 longed to Egla tribe, and live the whole year round at an 
 altitude of from 14,000 to 16,000 feet above the sea-level, 
 which may account for their low stature. They are said 
 to be brigands, but Brooke found those whom he met 
 quietly attending to their own herds. In the country directly 
 south he found a great deal of granite containing large crystals 
 of felspar several inches in length, and the large jagged boulders 
 reminded him of some parts of Scotland. 
 
 Brooke's old horse at last gave in, and had to be left 
 on the road ; he was given to a Tibetan, who promised to 
 care for him if he survived. 
 
 They reached the valley of Nagchuka on April loth and 
 found the people friendly. There were robbers roaming 
 about who were supposed to come from a district six marches 
 to the east ; one Mongolian caravan had lost forty horses. 
 
 While they were camped in a pleasant place in good pas- 
 tures, an old Tama called and warned Brooke that if he 
 proceeded two days further south he would be stopped at 
 the monastery there, but that if he liked he could give him 
 a guide who would take him to Gyantse by a road which led 
 all the way through the country of the Tashi Lamas, who 
 were friendly to the English. Brooke feared the old 
 man was trying to deceive him, and insisted on going on to 
 Nagchuka Comba. 
 
 39 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 They moved on next day and arrived at the borders of the 
 territory directly governed from Lhasa, where they camped. 
 In the evening a number of horsemen rode up with two well- 
 dressed Tibetans in the party. They all dismounted close 
 to his tent. Two Turkish rugs were spread on the ground 
 for them to sit on. Brooke walked over to them but 
 was not invited to join the party, so he invited them over 
 to his tent. They refused his invitation but beckoned him 
 to be seated, and he sat. They asked him where he was 
 bound for, and after he told them he was bound for India 
 he learned that the two guests referred to were representatives 
 of the Lhasa Government ; one was a Lama and the other 
 a District Magistrate, both from the monastery at Nagchuka. 
 
 The Magistrate was a pleasant looking man, wearing a 
 beautiful turquoise ear-ring set in gold ; the ring was about 
 four inches long. His hair was parted in the middle, and a 
 neat plait bordered the hair on the forehead. His pigtail 
 was neatly wound on the top of his head. He wore a Man- 
 darin's fur cap, a blue silk hood and velvet boots, and gener- 
 ally his dress was very similar to that of a Chinese Mandarin. 
 
 The Lama who sat opposite was anything but pleasant ; 
 his httle eyes showed a keen, cruel look, and his head was 
 clean shaved. He wore a Lama's garb that was quite smart 
 looking, and he was really of higher rank than the Magistrate. 
 
 A gigantic Tibetan stood beside them who wore a look as 
 if he might be the chief executioner ; he was dressed in a 
 roomy blue cloak, bordered and lined with leopard skin. 
 
 The Magistrate and Lama stated that, as this road on which 
 Brooke was travelling led to Lhasa, the party must proceed 
 no further until they had received permission from the " Holy 
 City." 
 
 On leaving they promised a definite direction next morning, 
 which meant that they were going to discuss the matter in 
 the monastery ; and after a friendly farewell they left the camp. 
 
 40 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 How He was Turned Back. 
 
 After the formal fashion associated with the state visits of 
 potentates on aUen soil, Mr. Brooke that evening returned his 
 visitors' call, taking each of them a present. One received 
 a cheap watch and the other a Ningsha rug. The watch 
 caused some jealousy, as they both wanted it. 
 
 At 10 o'clock next day no reply had come as to their decision, 
 and the interpreter was sent up to the monastery to find out 
 what had caused the delay. He returned without an answer, 
 so the order was given to pack the camels. This was no 
 sooner done than a party of Tibetans came along and unpacked 
 them again. Mr. Brooke then went up to the monastery himself 
 to find out why the Lama and the Magistrate had not sent 
 word as promised. He was told that they were waiting for 
 another Mongol Prince to come and dehberate with them. 
 His hosts were quite civil and asked the foreign visitor to be 
 seated. While they talked, a tall man with black whiskers, 
 sharp eyes, and rather a hooked nose, came in. They all 
 bowed low as he entered. His bearing and looks bore evidence 
 that he was not only a man of authority, but also a man of 
 firmness of character and quiet decision. 
 
 The conversation of the previous day was all repeated, 
 and the answer again was " Wait a little," with which Brooke 
 had to depart content. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon. 
 Lama and Magistrate appeared at the tent, bringing presents 
 consisting of butter, flour and rice. These Brooke refused 
 to accept until he had got an answer, and was told that he 
 
 41 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 " must not go south to Lhasa but west and then to 
 Gyantse." To this Brooke agreed, seeing that they were 
 most emphatic on the point. 
 
 From this place the old guide from Naichi now went back, 
 getting 65 taels and one camel as his wages. One of the boys 
 went back with him, so that, of the original party, only the 
 Shanghai boy, the cook from Sining, and Brooke himself 
 were left. 
 
 They were just preparing to start when a caravan arrived 
 from Sining, conveying two Chinese Mandarins to Lhasa. 
 Their caravan consisted of 100 camels and 50 horsemen. 
 They pitched their tent near by, so Brooke's party did not 
 start that day, as the guide was afraid to join them until the 
 Mandarins passed on. 
 
 The Chinese party cleared out the next morning, and Brooke 
 struck camp a httle later. The guide took them round by 
 a very rough road on which they lost one camel, and now 
 they entered a thickly populated district, where they were 
 soon followed by small bodies of horsemen. 
 
 The country consisted of wide valleys, covered with good 
 grass, on which large flocks of sheep and cattle were grazing. 
 After travelling about 300 h (between forty and fifty miles), 
 Brooke and his party found themselves surrounded by about 
 100 Tibetan horsemen, riding long-haired, tough little ponies. 
 They pitched their tents all round Brooke's camp, but were 
 quite civil. 
 
 Next morning, when Mr. Brooke began packing his camels, 
 two of the Tibetans came forward and said they had been 
 sent from Nagchuka Comba to stop them until they had 
 heard from Lhasa. Brooke paid no attention to them and 
 continued to pack, when some of the liorsemen seized 
 Senerh, the cook, by the arm, and so frightened him that 
 he sat down and refused to help. Brooke judged it prudent 
 
 to halt. 
 
 42 
 
How He was Turned Back. 
 
 After waiting here for six days, when I suppose the gods 
 must have sent the Tibetans a wireless message, Brooke 
 was definitely informed that he must go back. 
 
 It seemed to be a deadlock. Mr. Brooke and his party were 
 completely outnumbered and to resist would have been fatal ; 
 and now he wished that he had taken the old Lama's advice, or 
 had got away before the Chinese caravan came along. 
 
 There was nothing else for it now but gracefully to give in 
 and try in some other way to surmount the difficulty later ; 
 but the thought of having to traverse the barren track of 
 country with thin and worn-out camels was not a very en- 
 couraging prospect, and the greatest disappointment of all 
 was that the cherished hope of reaching the headwaters of 
 the Brahmaputra seemed doomed, and that after overcoming 
 so many obstacles. Brooke's one crumb of comfort was that 
 his Tibetan guide from Nagchuka said that he would stick 
 to him as he had received 25 taels in advance. 
 
 A body of sixteen horsemen escorted Mr. Brooke over the 
 Tangla Pass, where they left him, and returned to Nagchuka. 
 After continuing another day's journey north, he turned west, 
 hoping to be able to evade the guarded district, and once 
 more made his way south ; but after travelling 200 li he was 
 stopped again. He now went up the bank of the Dichu, 
 and crossed the Dungbure range by a small road on the other 
 side of the range ; there was difficulty in finding the main 
 road, but finally this Was hit on. Overtaking a return caravan 
 from Lhasa, he made friends with the Mongolians in charge, 
 who agreed to carry part of his baggage, as his camels were 
 almost worn out. 
 
 Brooke was able to shoot some game each day, quite suffi- 
 cient, to their great dehght, to keep his party in meat. He 
 had many lonely tramps after bear, wild yak and other game 
 that made its appearance along their line of march. 
 
 One by one his camels died off, for the long journey and 
 
 43 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 poor grazing, together with the intense cold on the passes, 
 had made them very weak. 
 
 Mr. Brooke writes as follows about these losses : — " I have 
 not said much about losing the animals, to me it is all too 
 sad to think of again. I regret having lost even the rudest 
 spitting camel, and it was a great grief to me to see the brave 
 old beasts that had stuck to me, till so near the end of my 
 journey, fall out of the ranks. Our three young camels are 
 
 WOMEN WEAVING TIBETAN CLOTH. 
 
 still strong, but only one of them is in really good condition ; 
 he now has to carrv a heavy load to help the others. We 
 have still four of the original horses taken from Tankar, but 
 I was always doubtful whether Senerh would ever get his back 
 to China again. He had been ailing very much of late, but 
 was a splendid dear little beast whose pluck might have saved 
 him ; but five days before reaching the Mongol pasture lands 
 he began to give in, and could scarcely keep up to the caravan. 
 
 44 
 
How He was Turned Back. 
 
 At last he stopped, shut his eyes, his whole body began to 
 quiver, and only with a great effort would he keep firm on 
 his four wiry, weary little legs. Taking the saddle off and 
 wrapping a rug around him, we got him a mile farther, where 
 there was good grass. I kissed his soft little nose and there 
 we left him. I hope he died not too cruelly. I had shot all 
 the other animals before leaving them, but this one I thought 
 might live. I feel as though I would rather have lost both 
 my Chinamen, considering how inconsistent, unfeehng and 
 cowardly they both were, compared with this fine little beast, 
 which had carried a man for six months without either 
 baulking, biting or kicking, his ears always talking and telling 
 us how he hoped for grass and rest, a hope that only left him 
 when his body refused to obey his brave little heart. My 
 boy's black pony was another of the same stamp, but he, 
 thank God, reached a nice camp, where a Mongohan agreed 
 to look after him and bring him to Sining in the autumn." 
 
 One day they saw some antelope, and Brooke went after 
 them, but the snow bhndness from which he had been suffering 
 since crossing the high passes still troubled him, and he did 
 not succeed in getting any of them. He dropped out of the 
 caravan to follow them up, leaving his boy to hold his horse. 
 When he returned, they had both disappeared, and he walked 
 35 h and still could not find the camp. Finally he found an 
 old Mongol, who took him on his camel to the place where the 
 caravan had pitched for the night. 
 
 It was weary work tramping back over the same road 
 by which they had travelled south so full of anticipation 
 but two months before. On May 22nd, they found Li, who 
 had been sent back sick, and also his companion. They had 
 put up for two months in a little hut kept by an old China- 
 man, who had a Mongolian wife. The coolie now joined the 
 caravan. He would have left the old man without giving him 
 anything for keeping him all this time, but Brooke, finding this 
 
 45 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 out, gave the host one of the camels which was badly in need 
 of a rest and could not have gone much further, together with 
 10 taels of silver. After all, the boy said the old man had 
 saved his hfe. 
 
 The caravan kept together as far as the Kokonor, where 
 part of it went to Tankar. The other part went north, and 
 Brooke continued with them through a salty desert, where 
 the salt was in thick cakes on the ground. The path was 
 marked by slabs of this salt which was raised on end. It is 
 
 ^^i 
 
 P...M 
 
 ^fl 
 
 l^^' 
 
 ^^^^HPNIil^^ ' ^" 
 
 
 ,....JM 
 
 "^=At/jtoW,^r . 
 
 #ft 
 
 1 AUAH-'f^i'- 
 
 w'-i 
 
 ^ r\/ : ' » -"^j^ffrnK 
 
 m'- i 
 
 r - 
 
 i 
 
 MR. UROOKE WITH THE CHINESE CARAVAN. 
 
 from this locahty that a great deal of the salt that supplies 
 Kamsu is exported, being carried out by large caravans of 
 yak and camels. 
 
 This salt plain was about twenty miles broad ; of course, 
 neither water nor grass was to be found on the march. Another 
 forty miles north brought them to a large lake with thousands 
 of geese and ducks floating about on it, and here they camped. 
 The weather was quite warm now, and the lake would soon 
 be swarming with young ducks and goslings and many other 
 
 46 
 
How He was Turned Back. 
 
 kinds of water fowl. Mr. Brooke wanted to shoot some of 
 thern, but the old Mongolian said no ; it was a pity to shoot 
 them now, when they were nesting. 
 
 These Mongolians are a strange people ; they are kind to 
 animals, are rather averse to stealing, are extremely religious, 
 believe it is wrong to tell a lie, and yet are always indulging 
 in that habit. 
 
 After another four days' march the party reached the 
 home of the old Mongohan with whom they had been travelhng. 
 His daughter was the first to meet him, and ran the last lOO 
 yards, throwing her arms around his neck. The mother did 
 not trouble to dismount from her camel to greet her step 
 daughter. When they got to the tent the Mongol's old sister 
 came out and kissed her brother's hand again and again 
 while tears of joy rolled down her cheeks. " A funny custom 
 to cry at meeting one's brother," grunted the Chinaman from 
 Sining. The old woman had heard that her brother had been 
 killed, and the joy at seeing him again brought the tears to 
 her eyes. 
 
 On the hills and mountains in the neighbourhood was to 
 be found plenty of ovis ammum and wild ponies. Mr. 
 Brooke shot one very fine specimen. His eyes were still 
 troubling him, or he might have bagged more. 
 
 After a great deal of discussion and bargaining with the 
 people of the district, he secured four good horses in exchange 
 for his few surviving and worn-out camels. The catching of 
 the ponies was the occasion of much merriment. The people 
 from the surrounding tents were all invited and men and 
 women turned out. After the ceremony of tea-drinking was 
 over, the herd was surrounded and driven up near the camp ; 
 then by means of a long rope which was encircled around the 
 bunch, the ponies were crowded together and one by one 
 caught and tethered to a line pegged out for the purpose. 
 
 They succeeded in catching all but one little red brute, 
 
 47 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 which Brooke had set his heart on, and which jumped the 
 hne and broke through the circle and got away. They kept 
 the rest tied up, but this one galloped about until he got tired, 
 then came in and stood with the others. Later they succeeded 
 in getting the rope round him, and a clever little horseman 
 threw a noose over his nose and got hold of him. 
 
 After patting and quieting him for an hour, they announced 
 that he was readv to be ridden. He had never before had 
 
 THE NAICHI GUIDE WAITING FOR HIS KETTLE TO BOIL. 
 
 any one on his back and they would not put on a saddle, so 
 Mr. Brooke mounted bare-backed. As soon as the pony felt 
 the weight of his rider he shot into the air, his neck down and 
 his back arched ; at the third buck he succeeded in dislodging 
 his rider. A bridle and saddle were now brought, and when 
 all was ready Brooke again mounted, while an interested 
 crowd looked on. The pony made six successive bucks, then 
 galloped off. After about a three-mile gallop the pony was 
 brought to a walk, and again tried to buck, bounding into the 
 
 4S 
 
How He was Turned Back. 
 
 air, then bucking to the ground, and this he repeated twelve 
 times. At the twelfth phmge Brooke went off, but as the long 
 tethering rope was dragged rapidly through his hand he gripped 
 it tight at the knot, and brought the animal down. 
 
 Remounting immediately, he put off at another gallop, 
 and this time brought the pony home quite tame. 
 
 Finally they got all the ponies fitted out with bridles and 
 pack saddles and made a start, but the ponies, used to free- 
 dom and new to the business of carrying a load, were, to say 
 the least, frisky. 
 
 The boy Senerh was to ride one animal and lead the pack 
 animals, which were all attached by a leading rope. He tied 
 his little bundle, which a Chinaman always carries when on 
 the road, to the back of the saddle, and mounted, but when 
 the pony felt this bundle dangling at his side he began to 
 kick and buck, and sent the boy sprawling on the ground; 
 the animals all stampeded, and the baggage was scattered 
 all over the plain. 
 
 They succeeded in surrounding the ponies again, and with 
 much difficulty got reloaded and made a fresh start, taking 
 this time a Mongohan guide and horseman. After two days' 
 march over the mountain range they arrived at Uchumi, 
 a broad valley where Mongol flocks were grazing on the plains. 
 Large packs of wolves were prowling about and the natives 
 kept ferocious dogs to guard the flocks. Wild camels were 
 seen, but they could only be distinguished by being longer 
 in the legs and slimmer in the body than the tame ones. 
 
 The first town they reached was Chichen, 130 li north-east 
 by east from Tamar ; here they found trees, plenty of grass 
 and fresh vegetables. The latter were most welcome to men 
 who for several months had been compelled to abstain from 
 a vegetable diet. 
 
 They passed on to Suchow, which is a well-sized walled cit}', 
 noted for its giant donkeys and mules ; some of the donkeys 
 
 (1 1243) 49 E 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 reach twelve hands and the mules fifteen hands high. Mr. 
 Brooke took his two Chinese servants with him to a restaurant, 
 and they all enjoyed a good Chinese meal — meat, fish, buttered 
 eggs, chicken with plenty of good rice, all cooked in Chinese 
 fashion. A red wine made from dates served to wash them 
 down, and the two servants, at least, considered that they 
 had reached civihsation at last, although this is one of the 
 places to which criminals are banished, and it is looked upon 
 by the inhabitants of most of the other provinces as being 
 the end of the earth. Kouwai, that is, " outside of the mouth 
 of China," they call it. 
 
 The restaurant was the smartest one in Suchow, and the 
 road to it led down a httle filthy narrow street. The entrance 
 led through the kitchen, where two cooks were busily at work 
 over four hot charcoal fires, which burnt in a large mud range 
 built in a semi-circle and all in one piece. 
 
 A little farther on they passed through a courtyard, filled 
 with ducks and chickens, which wandered about amidst 
 heaps of carrots and cabbages, all awaiting their turn to 
 be prepared for the pot. After treading their way across 
 this dirty courtyard, with some care, lest they should step 
 on a cabbage leaf and find themselves sitting on the dirt}^ 
 cobble stones, they entered a large room, at the farther end 
 of which they found a party of well-dressed Chinese. Some 
 sat around a table drinking wine, while others reclined on 
 benches sucking their opium pipes, all awaiting their dinner 
 which was being prepared in the kitchen at the entrance 
 of the inn. 
 
 This is the Ritz or Carlton of Suchow, and the best Chinese 
 dinner put up in the place would consist of eight or ten courses, 
 and for a table of eight persons, wine included, would cost 
 about ten shillings for the whole party. 
 
 On returning to his inn Brooke found that Father Assance 
 had just called, so he went over and spent a very pleasant 
 
 50 
 
How He was Turned Back. 
 
 evening with this priest, who was the only foreigner in the 
 place, his sole companion a Chinese priest; yet priests like 
 Father Assance are so wrapped up in their work that 
 they never feel lonely and never look forward to seeing 
 the land of their birth again, but live and die with their 
 converts. 
 
 Brooke engaged carts to carry the baggage to Lanchow, 
 twenty-one stages to the south-east. He travelled with them 
 as far as Kanchow, seven stages, then went south, across grass 
 country, where he found large herds of cattle grazing, but the 
 people were not friendly. Gold was being washed in the 
 river beds by Mohammedans. On the passes and slopes he 
 found plenty of wild flowers, and finally reached Sining on 
 July ist, where he found Mr. and Mrs. Ridley, who again gave 
 him a hearty welcome to their home. After a week's rest 
 he continued his journey to Lanchow, where he found his 
 carts and baggage waiting for him. He spent a few days at 
 the China Inland Mission with Mr. and Mrs. Andrews, whom 
 he found exceedingly kind and hospitable, even though he 
 could not see eye to eye with them on religious subjects. 
 
 Mr. Brooke's impression of missions was that both the 
 Protestants and Roman Cathohcs were doing good work in 
 China, and he wrote : — 
 
 " To criticise the missionary work in China as a whole 
 would be unfair and ungrateful of any traveller, for he receives 
 endless help everywhere from these good people. The traveller 
 from his short stay in the country may be unable always to 
 see eye to eye with them, but what they do they believe to 
 be for the best interests of the cause they represent. 
 
 " More organisation would appear to be needed in some 
 directions. What great things might be accomplished if 
 England would carry on mission work with as much enthusiasm 
 as she carries on a war or builds battleships." 
 
 From Lanchow he took mules via Tsinchow, and passing 
 (11243) 51 ^ ^ 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 through a rough rocky country joined the Kiahng River 
 at Peishuikiang, the most northerly point to which boats 
 come, which is 250 miles north of Chungking. The upper 
 reaches of this river are only navigable in the flood season, 
 and to Peishui boats come for wool, hides and herbs, which 
 are brought from Kansu by mule. After the long journey 
 on foot and horseback, Brooke found it very pleasant to be 
 once more in a Chinese junk, and to be hurled over the rapids 
 and through great gorges where the river had cut its bed in 
 the limestone rocks, and rank fohage overhung the banks. 
 
 KANSU GIRLS NEAR SINING. 
 
 He was rapidly carried on down through the cuhivated lands 
 of Sechuan, where everything was teeming with life and 
 excitement. When passing through Kwangyuen he called 
 at the Mission Station and found two English lady missionaries 
 at work, attending to a crowd of patients who had gathered 
 to be treated for various ailments so common to the Chinese, 
 and was greatly interested with the work being carried on by 
 these women in their lonely station. 
 
 He next reached Paoning, where he called on Bishop Cassels 
 and spent some pleasant hours with the Bishop, of whose work 
 
How Mc was Turned Back. 
 
 he speaks in the highest terms, as he does also of the medical 
 work which is carried on at Paoning by Dr. EHiott. 
 
 Passing rapidly down the river, for it was in high flood, 
 in six days he reached Chungking, which he describes as a 
 dirty city, into which he had to climb up a long stone stair- 
 case by the river side before entering the gates. The roads 
 are cut out of the solid rock and the city is perched on the 
 side of the same. 
 
 At Chungking Dr. Wolfendale, of the London Mission, kindly 
 entertained Brooke, who found him and his colleagues most 
 pleasant people. While in Chungking he met most of the 
 missionaries stationed there, and gave a lecture on his experi- 
 ences in Tibet. 
 
 From here he hired another boat to Ichang. I met him 
 first at Wanhsien on his way down and again at Ichang a 
 httle later. 
 
 He was then on his way to Japan and Corea as set forth 
 in the introductory chapter. With that journey we are not 
 concerned, and we will continue our story from Hankow, 
 where he and Mr. Meares started together on that long, last 
 journey which cost him his life. 
 
 I have written this outline of Mr. Brooke's Tibetan journey 
 from a report he sent home, and hope that these notes will 
 at least show the bravery, determination and character of the 
 man, who, for the sake of science, left home and comforts, 
 and endured hardship and danger without a murmur or 
 complaint. 
 
 How much more should we, who believing that God has 
 called us to go to the uttermost parts of the world, carrying 
 with us the everlasting Gospel of Peace on earth and Goodwill 
 toward men, be ready to suffer all things for His Name's 
 sake. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Hankow to Chentu, 
 
 It was from Hankow that Brooke and Meares actually started 
 on their journey. After spending some days collecting a 
 few remaining necessaries and securing another servant, 
 the latter started off at daybreak, January i, 1908, by one 
 of the little river steamers that runs up to Ichang, in order 
 to hire a house-boat to take them up the river as far as Chung- 
 ching. Brooke stayed behind at Hankow to draw some 
 money from the bank, and also to purchase a few more things 
 when the shops opened after the New Year holiday. 
 
 On arriving at Ichang, ]\Ieares soon secured a comfortable 
 little house-boat, the captain of which agreed to take them 
 to Chungching in twenty-one days for 100 taels, or about £15. 
 It was a more difficult matter to satisfy the Englishmen in 
 charge of the customs. At first the officials insisted upon 
 their producing receipted bills for all their instruments, 
 cameras, etc. ; but, as our travellers had not these bills with 
 them, it was finally agreed to accept their statement that 
 they had purchased them in Shanghai for their own use. 
 The officials insisted, however, on their having a permit, for 
 their arms and ammunition, from the Viceroy of the Province. 
 They went round to see if the British Consul could help them 
 in obtaining this, but he had gone off on a shooting trip and 
 had left no one to act in his absence. This left them in rather 
 a hole ; but, on their calling on the officer in command of the 
 gunboat, he kindly telegraphed to the Viceroy, and after 
 some days' delay they finally got started. 
 
 54 
 
Hankow to Chcntu. 
 
 Having a small boat they only had a crew of twenty men ; 
 some of the larger junks have crews of over lOO men. The 
 junks are propelled, when crossing the river, by oars and 
 sweeps, and if the wind is favourable they spread large sails 
 
 C. H. MEARES AS HE LEFT HANKOW, JAN. 
 
 1908. 
 
 which carry them along at a rapid rate. Wherever the banks 
 allow, they are towed up by gangs of trackers, harnessed to 
 the end of a long rope made of plaited strips of bamboo. These 
 ropes are wonderfully strong, and they need to be, for the 
 weight of a heavily-laden junk at the end of a rope half a 
 
 55 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 mile long in a rushing current is tremendous, and often one 
 may see a large gang of trackers on all fours, hanging on with 
 their hands as well as their feet, just holding their own or 
 advancing an inch at a time. 
 
 After leaving Ichang the river in many places is hemmed 
 in by huge cliffs more than 2,000 feet high on both sides, 
 and high up on the face of these cliffs a tiny path has been 
 cut out, along which the trackers crawl. This is very dan- 
 gerous work, for, if the junks swerve off into the current, 
 the men are jerked from their precarious foothold into the 
 river, hundreds of feet below. There are several bad rapids 
 where the river comes down in a swirling flood full of whirl- 
 pools. In these places there are hundreds of extra trackers, 
 who make a bargain to haul the junks through. If the 
 ropes do not break all is well, but if there is a flaw in 
 the rope, and it breaks at a critical moment, the junk 
 is swept away and dashed to pieces on the sharp rocks. 
 Our travellers were unusually fortunate, and came 
 through all the rapids without losing a rope, and tied up 
 at Wanhsien to give the trackers a holiday for the Chinese 
 New Year. 
 
 Wanhsien is a busy town. A British cruiser was stationed 
 there. Not far from the city there are some interesting 
 deposits of the bones of antidiluvian animals. These were 
 being dug up by the Chinese and sold for medicine on the 
 streets of Wanhsien. 
 
 On his way down Brooke spent two days trying to get 
 some of these bones as specimens, but could not succeed 
 in getting any complete parts, such as a leg or a skull or a 
 large section of the vertebrae. The teeth, parts of the jaw 
 and sections of the legs which he saw went to prove that the 
 animal must have been very large, but he could not make 
 out what it could have been. The Chinese were digging all 
 about the place, and had already carried away most of the 
 
 56 
 
Hankow to Chentu. 
 
 section to various parts of China, for these mysterious bones 
 commanded a high price as medicine. 
 
 Such things as bears' feet and heads for rheumatism and 
 stiff joints, deers' horns and sinews for the weakness in men, 
 are among the chief remedies of the Chinese quack, and you 
 will hear him crying out on the streets, as he offers these 
 medicines for sale, that there is nothing like them for a weak 
 or sore back, and all the other ailments that the Chinese so 
 frequently suffer from. 
 
 Chungking is situated at the junction of two rivers — the 
 Kialing, which flows from the north, and here joins its water 
 with that of the Yangtze, that great river which finds its 
 source on the roof of the world, nearly 2,000 miles north- 
 west of here. 
 
 This city, therefore, is wedge-shaped, and built on the 
 side of a hill which at its highest point is quite 500 feet ; and 
 the widest part between the two rivers is not more than two 
 miles, so that the houses are built on stone abutments, one 
 above the other, like great steps in a staircase. There is no 
 difficulty about the foundation, as that is of solid red sand- 
 stone. The streets are narrow, and are really one continuous 
 staircase. They are kept in a continual condition of slush 
 by the water carriers, for all the water consumed by half a 
 million people has to be carried from the riverside in buckets 
 suspended from a carrying pole. As the carriers wend their 
 way up the long line of stone steps there is naturally a con- 
 stant splash from the buckets. To make it worse, Chungking 
 is like London, nearly always enveloped in fog, so that there 
 is little chance of the streets ever getting dried up ! 
 
 Although Brooke describes it as the most dismal city 
 he has ever seen, yet it is a very important commercial centre. 
 It is the most westerly open port in China and has a foreign 
 community of several hundred people, including the Mari- 
 time Customs and Post Office staff, the Bluejackets and the 
 
 59 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 Missionaries. The British have three gunboats, the French 
 two, and the Germans have one, and are expecting another 
 soon ; while the Japanese are to send up two. Chungking 
 has many waterways as well as overland routes, by which the 
 various imports and exports are conveyed to and fro. 
 
 Our travellers spent two days making preparations for 
 their 256-mile march to Chentu, and all their things had 
 to be repacked into packets of 50 lbs. each, two bundles of 
 which were carried by a coolie, one on each end of the springing 
 pole which the Chinese use for the purpose. 
 
 It was a bright, crisp, sunny February morning when the 
 caravan wound round out of the north gate of Chungking. 
 The narrow stone-paved road wound among fields of brilliant 
 golden mustard and grey-green beans in flower ; their scent 
 was indescribable. 
 
 It was one of the mornings on which a man feels it is 
 good to be alive, and both Brooke and Meares scorned their 
 sedan chairs and delighted their coolies, who were glad to 
 see them walk mile after mile, day after day, while they had 
 only to carry the empty chairs. Yet the masters felt that 
 they had the best of the bargain. The joy of the start at 
 daybreak and the long march through these scenes and scents 
 more than repaid the energy expended. 
 
 The oranges and orange-groves ! Every half-mile along 
 the road they passed a heap of the lovely golden balls, still 
 dewy from the trees. Large, luscious, loose-skinned mandarin 
 oranges — twelve a penny or sixteen a penny if you give the 
 skins back — and other delicacies, huge stalks of juicy purple 
 sugar cane, dripping with sweetness and only costing the 
 fraction of a penny for a stick four feet long. In the cold morn- 
 ings, when we started off from the inns, there was always one 
 man waiting outside the door with hot sweet wine and an 
 egg beaten up in it, and another with hot scones, light as snow, 
 and with a lump of raw sugar in tlio middle. These refresh- 
 
 60 
 
jy 
 
Hankow to Chentu. 
 
 ments may not sound very tempting, but taste them after 
 a good walk among the fields on a frosty morning, and you 
 will think you have never eaten anything so good. 
 
 The towns of this district are all famed for their crystallized 
 fruits, such as whole oranges, ginger, Buddha fingers, apples, 
 plums, dates, cherries and many other varieties. If the 
 traveller is not above eating the food of the country he can 
 live well and cheaply here. And so Brooke and Meares 
 marched along day after day, enjoying every hour, and rather 
 proud of themselves when they swung into an inn fresh and 
 hungry, after a tramp of twenty-five to thirty miles. Yet 
 they owned that it rather took away their conceit when their 
 miserable coolies, carrying over loo lbs. on their shoulders, 
 swung in behind them, also smiling and hungry. 
 
 They passed on through lovely fertile valleys, then up 
 over rolling hills covered with fir trees and bamboo grooves. 
 All along the road they met numbers of coolies carrying 
 baskets of coal. Brooke, dropping behind, thought he would 
 like to find out where these men came from, and followed 
 up one of the coolies who was returning empty-handed. 
 After going about a mile from the road he came to a shaft 
 sunk in the ground where a Chinaman was turning a ven- 
 tilating fan. A ladder descended into the bowels of the 
 earth, by which he reached the main shaft, where miners 
 were dragging little sledges full of coal along a gallery five feet 
 broad by three feet high. One of the sledgemen was induced, 
 for a small tip, to pull Brooke along the gallery on his 
 sledge, and did so for some distance, till the seam suddenly 
 dipped down into the earth. Here he bolted, leaving Brooke 
 in the dark on the edge of an incline, until another miner, 
 with a lamp in his hat came along, and, "tipped" in his 
 turn, allowed Mr. Brooke to hold on to the back of the full 
 sledge which he was dragging out, and so brought him safely 
 from the shaft, where Brooke was greeted by a friendly crowd. 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 who brought him hot water to wash his hands. The coal 
 was of a splendid quality, the mine was neat and clean with 
 timbered and whitewashed walls, and the Chinese miners 
 were well-dressed and healthy-looking. 
 
 Brooke caught up with Meares and they had breakfast. 
 In the afternoon it began to rain and the stone road which 
 had been in such good condition for walking in the dry weather 
 became like a sheet of ice. 
 
 They passed several duck farms on the road, and a won- 
 derful sight they were. The duck farmer, by some means, 
 gets thousands of ducks' eggs and hatches them by artificial 
 heat. As soon as the ducklings are a few days old he drives 
 them out in the fields to forage, and it is most interesting 
 to watch him shepherding a flock of several thousand httle 
 ducks with the help of a long bamboo rod. 
 
 Some of the farmers were beginning to prepare the fields 
 for planting rice, and the fields which a few days ago were 
 covered with sun-burnt bricks, had now been changed into 
 muddy sloughs. Scarcely has the water been turned on the 
 fields than the fisherman is at work, wading about in mud 
 up to his knees and with very little on but his hat. He carries 
 in his hand a large round bamboo basket without a bottom. 
 This basket he suddenly plunges into the mud, and then 
 feeling round inside with his hand he draws out a little fish 
 three or four inches long. 
 
 Next day was wet. They passed a string of coolies carry- 
 ing the mails from Chentu to Chungking. These men make 
 wonderful time, averaging sixty to eighty miles a day, while 
 they carry bags of mail averaging from 50 to 60 lbs. in weight. 
 
 Some of the towns they passed through were very pic- 
 turesque, and were all decorated for the Chinese New Year. 
 One in particular impressed Brooke. The scheme for the 
 decoration of the whole town was dark red, the streets were 
 roofed in with the same colour and were lined with rows of 
 
 ^4 
 
hinkovv t(i Chcntu. 
 
 red silk lanterns. The inns, too, were above the average, 
 that is to say, they were as good as a poor European stable, 
 instead of being worse than a bad pigsty, as usually they 
 are. 
 
 Near here they met strings of coolies carrying what they 
 thought to be very dirty sandstone. On asking them where 
 thev were taking the stones they replied " that it was salt, 
 and that the blacker it was the better." This salt is obtained 
 from the brine wells in this district, and these wells Brooke 
 thought were one of tlie most wonderful things in China. 
 The wells are about six inches in diameter, and some of them 
 are 3,000 feet deep. They are drilled out by a steel bar slung 
 on the end of a long bamboo rope, and jerked up and down 
 by a cow, and you may imagine they take many years to 
 sink. The brine is drawn out of these wells in a large bamboo 
 tube with a valve in the bottom ; this is lowered into the 
 bottom of the well, and when full is raised by being wound 
 round and round a horizontal drum turned by water buffaloes. 
 
 Some of these wells give off natural gas, which is used for 
 illumination and for evaporating the brine into salt. A 
 sight of these wells arouses admiration for the first man who 
 sunk one of them. How did he know that the brine was 
 there ? Even if he was so far certain, he must have known 
 that it would not be reached during his own lifetime, nor 
 perhaps, in that of his son. Yet there the wells are, for all to 
 see, and the blacker and dirtier the brine the more valuable 
 the well, for the Chinaman thinks that white salt is unhealthy, 
 and that the dark colour has superior medicinal qualities. 
 
 And so they passed along through the fruit district, the 
 sugar-cane district, over mountain passes and beautiful 
 plains, sometimes following the river-bed, sometimes climb- 
 ing hillsides, and over stone steps cut out of the solid rock. 
 Everywhere the busy farmer was to be seen working on his 
 farm from before sunrise till dark, with a short interval to 
 (1 1243) 67 V 2 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 eat his boiled rice and pickled turnip, and drink a cup of 
 tea. Not only are the fields in the valley irrigated, but even 
 the hillsides are terraced in many places and cisterns are 
 made on the tops of the hills, which are filled with water 
 during the rainy season, and hold it most of the year. From 
 these cisterns water is let down into the terraced fields on 
 the hillsides, and it is wonderful how they keep many of these 
 small fields submerged for the greater part of the year. At 
 last they ascended a mountain about 2,000 feet high from 
 its base, and quite 5,000 feet above the sea. From the top 
 of the pass they got a grand view of the Chentu plain. It 
 looked like an immense forest, for the whole plain was covered 
 with trees, and large feathery bamboo groves enclosed most 
 of the farmhouses. When they reached the plain they found 
 that it was simply a Garden of Eden. Every farmer took as 
 much pains, in working up and fertilising his wheat field, as 
 most of our gardeners in Europe or America do their vegetable 
 plots, when catering for some large city trade. 
 
 The Chinese system of fertilising may not be a very pleasant 
 one, but there is no doubt that the secret of their success as 
 cultivators of the soil is the fact that they let no particle of 
 fertiliser go to waste, and use it in a liquid condition. Our 
 farmers in England have here a great deal to learn from the 
 Chinese. We prefer to send millions of dollars worth of 
 the richest fertiliser through our sewers into the ocean every 
 year, and to buy our wheat from abroad, rather than find 
 a plan of utilising it on the land from which it originall}- 
 came. 
 
 Brooke and his party finally reached Chentu, after 
 passing through about ten miles of beautiful flat farming 
 country, which looked like a forest from the pass above the 
 mountain. 
 
 Along this road are several very busy market towns, but 
 tlie road itself showed by far the worst condition of any part 
 
 68 
 
Hankow to CheiUu. 
 
 of the 256 miles they had tramped from Chungking, a con- 
 dition due to the large quantity of stone brought in on wheel- 
 barrows from the quarries at Lungcheni at the foot of the 
 pass. 
 
 Chentu is a very large city, and they walked for miles 
 looking for a decent inn. So many officials come to this 
 city that all the best inns are kept occupied, though even 
 the best are nothing to boast of, for a large city like this. 
 Finally they found a half-respectable one, and there, though 
 the rooms were small and dirty, they decided to remain for 
 a few days while they completed their plans. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Chentu to Wexchuan. 
 
 On the following day they called on Mr. Fox, His Britannic 
 Majesty's Acting Consul-General, and had a talk with him 
 about the country they hoped to travel in. He did not give 
 them much information. 
 
 In the afternoon they called on the writer and we talked 
 Mantze Land over a cup of tea, which our two visitors seemed 
 to appreciate very much after their long journey across China, 
 where they had not the latest convenience for making cake, 
 and had very few opportunities of enjoying home-made bread 
 and butter. They seemed to have enjoyed the Chinese food 
 by the way, but it had by no means destroyed their apprecia- 
 tion of 5 o'clock tea, even when served in the humble cottage 
 of a missionary nearly 2,000 miles west of Shanghai. 
 
 We talked about the people and the country, and as they 
 seemed anxious to do some big game hunting I promised to 
 introduce them to So Tussu, the Prince of the State of Wassu, 
 where large game is to be found. These tribesmen are great 
 hunters and spend most of the year in the chase ; except for 
 a month at seed time and another when the grain is being 
 harvested, which is their close season. At that t'me the 
 Prince issues a proclamation that every one must be in the 
 fields. 
 
 As I had never taken a day off to enjoy a hunt since coming 
 to China, I arranged to join the party for two weeks in the 
 Wassu Forest. 
 
 They spent several days in Chentu, making the necessary 
 72 
 
ChenlLi to Wencluiaii. 
 
 preparation for the hunting tour. CooHes had to be engaged, 
 the loads repacked and made lighter ; for the mountainous 
 country into which tliey were now about to enter was much 
 more difficult for the porter, and they were anxious to have 
 no complaints after they started on their journey. I gave 
 them all the help I could, securing for them a good head 
 
 ■lllNli.iE ri-.A,iANl 
 
 coohe, which is a most important item in starting on an 
 expedition of this kind. 
 
 The head coolie is responsible for the conduct of aU the 
 porters; he keeps their time sheets, pays them their wages, 
 engages new men by the way, should one by any chance 
 fall out of the ranks or get " baulky " and refuse to do his 
 work, as they often do. 'Sluch of the success or failure of 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Stepper 
 
 every expedition depends on the conduct of the porters, for 
 if they are obstinate they not only hinder the progress of the 
 expedition, but often make it very unpleasant and even 
 dangerous for the whole party. 
 
 It is advisable when one is starting on a long journey in a 
 rough or mountainous country to have the loads compara- 
 tively light, i.e., 10 to 20 lbs. below the standard weight carried 
 by coolies on the main roads. The coolies will then travel 
 up to thirty miles a day if necessary and always be cheerful. 
 Long stages are very seldom called for in the Tribes country, 
 for much of the transport is achieved by " peitze," i.e., a 
 load carried on a man's back. The men's loads are made 
 fast to a frame or human pack-saddle and fit down the back, 
 and have straps coming over the shoulders ; in this way they 
 carry 250 to 500 lbs. per man, and travel about forty li (ten 
 miles) per day. Usually every three miles, at most, along the 
 routes there is an inn, or a stopping place called an inn, where 
 passengers can put up. When the traveller gets off these 
 main roads into the small paths that lead through the country, 
 there are no inns ; one has to make other arrangements, and 
 get into a private house if possible. 
 
 It is a great rehef to the traveller to know that his men 
 are not too heavily laden and that he may have no fear of 
 delay on their account. The average load for a coolie wh<j 
 lias to pass over high altitudes should not exceed 60 to 
 80 lbs. per man ; if this rule is adhered to, there will seldom 
 be any grumbling or disputing in the ranks. 
 
 On February 27th Meares started off to Kwanhsien 
 with the coolies and servants, while Brooke remained 
 behind to secure an interpreter. Unfortunately the man he 
 brought as interpreter from Shanghai developed heart disease, 
 and on arriving at Chentu was in a very bad condition indeed, 
 his legs and body being much swollen. The doctor strongly 
 recommended that he should be sent back, saying that he 
 
 74 
 
A MANTZE CASTIE AN'l) TOWER; KIAKOS (ON KIGH 1) 1-OR DRYING CORN. 
 
Chcntu to Wfiichuan. 
 
 would be certain to die were he taken to higher altitudes. 
 They decided the best thing tliey could do was to send him 
 home and run the risk of getting a local man at Chentu. Here, 
 again, I was able to come to their aid, and, knowing a number 
 of students who spoke Enghsh, helped them to secure the 
 services of a very respectable man. Unfortunately he did not 
 prove to be quite what was wanted, but rather elegant ; and 
 affected long finger-nails, beautiful silk gowns, and rode in 
 a sedan chair wherever he went. He was useful, however, 
 in translation work, and the travellers kept him for about a 
 month in their employ. 
 
 Meares reached Kwanhsien in two marches, a distance of 
 thirty-four miles, while Brooke, starting the next day at 
 12 o'clock, did it in nine hours ; feehng his way for the last five 
 miles ; for it was pitch dark and he had no lantern, and did not 
 know the road, which winds its way between swift-running 
 streams for a great part of the distance. He finally reached the 
 city at 9 a.m. and called at the Mission Station, which is just 
 outside the city, in a nice little semi-native house on the 
 banks of one of the irrigation streams. They directed him 
 to the inn where Meares had put up and found the place not 
 very large or clean. The inns in this city are for the most 
 part occupied by merchants, who come here to buy up furs, 
 hides, wool and herbs, which are brought from Songpan, 
 Tsakulao, Mongum and other centres of trade on the Tibetan 
 frontier. 
 
 Kwanhsien is a busy little place on the Min River and is 
 the frontier town between China and the Tribes country. 
 It is the pomt at which most of the big Chinese firms trading 
 With the Tibetan and border tribes have their head depots, 
 which are most interesting places, almost like museums ; 
 one finds all kinds of strange medicines, horns, birds, skins, 
 furs, etc. Some of the skins are of animals almost unheard 
 of in luigland. 
 
 77 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 They were very much struck, on the road from Chentu, 
 by the constant stream of wheel-barrows conveying produce 
 to the capital, grain of all kinds, huge bales of tobacco, black 
 pigs which are trussed like helpless bundles, and packed 
 on each side of the barrow ; besides many other commodities. 
 There are also passenger barrows which carry one along very 
 
 CONVEYING PIGS TO THE CAPITAL 
 
 comfortably at five miles an hour, at a charge of about a 
 penny for five miles. 
 
 They spent the next day exploring the town and examining 
 the irrigation works. They naturally wondered where all this 
 water comes from ; along the road various dams and sluices 
 are run, by means of which the water is turned into the various 
 
Chentu to Wenchuan. 
 
 courses, yet not until they reached Kwanhsicn did they discern 
 the wonderful piece of engineering work, which has been stated 
 on good authority to be equal to anything accomplished by 
 our modern engineers. A great volume of water comes rolling 
 down from the snow-capped mountains of Tibet. Just as 
 the river leaps from the slopes and gorges throiigli which it 
 has come, and is about to enter the plain, it is caught and 
 parcelled into seven artificial beds, any of which would make 
 a good-sized river. These divisions, again, are subdivided 
 into thousands of small streams, so arranged that the water 
 in them flows as high as ten feet above the surrounding fields. 
 Sluices are so arranged that, at will, the entire plain, con- 
 sisting of over 100,000 acres, may be irrigated or left dry, 
 as the owners choose. A large part of the water thus diverted 
 from its original course is carried northward, and along the 
 foot of the mountains, and through a cut in another range 
 nearly i,ooo feet high ; and so flows on for nearly 300 miles 
 and joins the Yangtze at Lucheo, instead of returning to the 
 Min River from which it was diverted. 
 
 To accomplish this feat the water of the Min is not only 
 diverted from its natural course, but is brought over two 
 water-sheds and joined to the Hanchow River, which finds 
 its course on the opposite side of the mountain range. Thus 
 the water taken northward from Kwanhsien, by being kept 
 near to the foot of the range, is brought across the water-shed 
 which separates the Kwanhsien and Hanchow waters, and is 
 conveyed into the bed of the latter. 
 
 The plan for performing this piece of work was conceived 
 by a Chinese Mandarin named Lee Ping, in 300 B.C., and the 
 whole plan was put into operation by him. 
 
 For this famous piece of work Lee Ping was deified, and his 
 
 memory is still kept fresh by a fine temple erected to him 
 
 at Kwanhsien, where the officers and people worship him 
 
 every year. A great fair is held annually in this temple to 
 
 (11243) Si u 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 which the people gather from far and near, Lee Ping left 
 to be observed throughout future generations this motto : 
 " Keep the banks low and the beds deep." The motto is 
 still to be seen engraved on a stone in the temple at Kwan- 
 hsien, and, if it had not been scrupulously obeyed, the country 
 would have been deluged long ago. About 60,000 taels 
 (about £8,000) are expended annually in cleaning out the 
 beds and repairing the dams ; and the people willingly pay 
 this tax, which is assessed on all the lands benefited by the 
 irrigation system. 
 
 It would take too long adequately to explain the plan by 
 which the immense volume of water is successfully carried 
 out of its bed, and sent glistening and dancing over the large 
 and fertile plains : watering thousands of acres so that they 
 are entirely independent of rain, and enabhng this track 
 of country to bring forth sufficient food to support many 
 milhons of people annually. 
 
 The next morning they started early, and about a mile 
 north of Kwanhsien, came to the temple dedicated to Lee 
 Ping. This is one of the most beautifully situated temples 
 in China, and is kept in better repair than any other temple 
 in the country. All the gilding and lacquer work looks as 
 fresh as if it had only been put on yesterday, and the whole 
 place is kept in beautiful order — very unlike most of the 
 temples in China. 
 
 At the entrance of the temple, carved in stone and gilded, 
 is Lee Ping's motto for the keeping in repair of the irrigation 
 works, and the Chinese show that they have not forgotten 
 his instructions. Every winter they employ a huge army of 
 tribesmen to divert the river from the irrigation canal and 
 dig out the sand and stones, brought down by the summer 
 floods, until two huge iron bars are exposed. These were first 
 deposited by Lee Ping to show the proper depth of the channel. 
 
 Almost opposite the temple is an immense suspension 
 82 
 
Chentu to Wcnchiian. 
 
 bridge, over which much of the traffic between Chentu and the 
 Western Tribes passes. It is about one-third of a mile long, 
 and is made of huge hawsers of plaited strips of bamboo, 
 which stretch from bank to bank and are pulled light on big 
 wooden windlasses. Loose planks are laid on these hawsers, 
 and it is ticklish work leading a horse across the gaps, especially 
 when the whole bridge is swinging and oscillating in the strong 
 winds which blow every afternoon in this part of the world. 
 
 REPAIRING THE WENCHUAN SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 
 
 The march was continued up the Min for some hours, past 
 many coal mines and coke works, until a small stream was 
 reached flowing from the east, which at this point ran through 
 a narrow gorge, with huge cliffs on either sides ; after following 
 this stream for some distance the road again turned north- 
 ward and led over a pass at a height from its base of about 
 3,000 feet, or 5,000 feet above sea-level. 
 
 The view from the top of the pass is superb, but this was 
 (1 1243) 83 G 2 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 not the time of year to loiter and admire. It was bitterly 
 cold ; every hair on every leaf of the bamboo and crypto- 
 merias was encrusted with masses of crystal ice, and the whole 
 place looked like fairy land. Swinging down the long sloping 
 road, and returning to the Min at Yinhsiuwan, the party 
 found a comfortable little inn perched amid the most beautiful 
 scenery, and almost overhanging the river on a balcony of 
 tree trunks. 
 
 Yinhsiuwan is a small town of about lOO families, and 
 boasts several inns, but only two of them are really fit for 
 habitation ; the others are patronised by the tea and medicine 
 coolies who tramp this road. The place itself is specially 
 noted for its timber market, most of the square timbers and 
 coffin boards, cut farther up the river in the Wassu country, 
 are carried on men's shoulders to Yinhsiuwan, thence the^^ 
 are sent on rafts in the summer months to Kwanhsien, Chentu 
 and other large centres. 
 
 Yinhsiuwan is also a tea station, and much of the tea that 
 goes to Songpan and Matang for trade with the Tibetans 
 and Tribes passes up this way. It is the first stage ; the 
 coolies have to carry the tea to this place before they get 
 any pay for their work ; thence it is carried from stage to 
 stage by different coolies. 
 
 At this point the party had now really entered the 
 mountains, the scenery of which surpasses description, peak 
 after peak towering to a height of 6,000 to 8,000 feet ; there 
 was evidence of profuse vegetation, though just then ever}^- 
 thing was in its winter coat. 
 
 The route lay along the banks of the Min, which was now 
 a rushing, roaring torrent, and the road was rough and stony 
 and walking was most difficult. On both sides the precipitous 
 snow-covered mountains rose sheer from the river, and only 
 a narrow strip of blue sky was visible overhead ; yet even 
 these steep mountains are cultivated, and one wonders how 
 
 84 
 
Chcntu to Wenchuan. 
 
 the farmer can ever get the scanty soil to stay where it is 
 wanted, and not be carried down into the river with the first 
 shower of rain. 
 
 After travelhng for two days in this most picturesque 
 valley a new kind of dwelling, not of Chinese origin, came 
 into view — great three-storied buildings, solidly built of stone 
 and mud for mortar ; and great water towers like factory 
 chimneys rose in all directions. On inquiry it was found 
 
 that the people living on the east bank of the river are called 
 Chang Ming, and are supposed to be the remnant of the 
 aborigines of the country ; while the people on the west bank 
 are the Wassu, descendants of the tribesmen brought by the 
 Chinese from South- Western Tibet more tlian 800 years ago 
 to help conquer the Chang Ming. 
 
 The whole stretch of the country is interesting, and it is 
 well wooded for the most part, though every available spot 
 
 85 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 is cultivated. Along the road came thousands of coolies 
 laden with furs, wool, medicines, deer sinews, brought from 
 the Tibetan border towns, where these commodities had been 
 taken in exchange for salt, sugar, wane, rice or bamboo and 
 hemp sandles. The road runs parallel to the river all the 
 way, and every two miles are found rest houses, very poor 
 looking homes, in some cases covered only with split clap 
 boards or undressed shingles ; the frame structure, often as 
 not, leaning at such an angle that one would expect the 
 buildings to fall at any minute on their tenants, occupants, 
 and on the travellers who are to be seen drinking tea and 
 eating their food in many of them. There are, of course, 
 exceptions ; but most of the buildings certainly impress 
 one with the fact that the inhabitants have a hard job to make 
 a hving. The average hut, called an inn, is filthy, and the 
 pigsty and its inhabitants have the most prominent and" 
 honourable position — a room or pen at the upper end of the 
 enclosure. 
 
 Reports of game were heard along the road, yet nothing 
 was seen but one raccoon, which some of the natives had 
 trapped and chained up. The country was very wild and 
 rugged, and so steep were some of the cliffs that formed the 
 river bank and so high did they tower, that the road builders, 
 at points, had cut a passage out of the sohd rock. In other 
 parts mason work is built, or a wooden bridge is thrown across 
 a chasm, sometimes several hundred feet above the foaming 
 stream. Yet over these narrow and dangerous places the 
 pack-mules plying between Kwanhsien and Songpan pass 
 continually, and hardly ever with an accident. Often they 
 have to walk within a few inches of the edge of these 
 precipices with not more than two inches of space between the 
 load and the sohd rock on the inside, while a sheer drop of several 
 hundred feet is between them and the water or the rock as 
 the case may be, on the other side. Yet these wonderfully 
 
 S6 
 
Chentu to Wcnchucin. 
 
 sure-footed animals seldom make a mis-step or even bump 
 their loads on the rocks, though you would not care to have 
 your hand between the loads and th(^ rock, so little space 
 is there to spare. 
 
 ^. .. .^ 
 
 . i^i^M 
 
 
 
 ..'iH^^^^B 
 
 ■r>^-' •v.ai "• 
 
 '^B^B^^I 
 
 BM. "* "^ 
 
 '^H99 
 
 E2>r- ~^:^ 
 
 
 HnGBEK^'^'" 
 
 
 
 „,. ^,^J 
 
 EJ*^" 
 
 ^n 
 
 j^^^^-a.^v 
 
 Wm 
 
 
 
 SO TUSSU, HIS SON, AND SECRETARY. 
 
 On the evening of March 6, Wenchuan was reached, and 
 a fairly comfortable inn was found in which they made 
 their headquarters for some time. I started from Chentu 
 several days after them, but making a quick journey on 
 
 87 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 my frisky little horse, overtook them the evening they 
 arrived. 
 
 Next morning we called on So Tussu, who had just come 
 down from his palace on the mountain of Tongling to meet 
 a new Chinese official who had just been appointed to Wen- 
 chuan. He was very friendly, and arranged a small hunt 
 for us next day, to test our sporting capabihties. 
 
 88 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Sport in Wassu. 
 
 Next morning we were up early, but by 8 a.m. no hunters 
 had arrived, so we went over to the chief to ask if they were 
 coming. A little later two ruffianly-looking hunters ap- 
 peared, dressed in skin coats, and armed with long gaspipe 
 guns, with coils of fuse made with bamboo fibre. They all 
 wore bamboo or hemp sandals, and we did the same, as 
 leather boots were quite useless, not to say dangerous, on 
 the crags where we were to hunt. After leaving the village 
 behind us we followed a small path which zigzagged up the 
 precipitous side of the mountain, and, after some more climb- 
 ing, found six other hunters with their dogs awaiting our 
 arrival. 
 
 We still climbed higher, to take our positions for the hunt, 
 while some of the hunters with their dogs remained below 
 to drive the game. Before we reached our positions we 
 heard the dogs barking, and the hunters shouted up to us that 
 a musk deer had got away. 
 
 After a tremendous struggle up the precipitous cliffs, over 
 which we scrambled, dragging ourselves up, by catching 
 hold of the brushwood and shrub bamboo which covered the 
 face of the mountain, we finally reached a position, far up 
 the mountain side, where we had a most wonderful view of 
 the surrounding country. Here we halted for a little, to 
 gain our breath and enjoy the panoramic view unfolded before 
 us. Away to the west a great snow range seemed to blend 
 its glistening peaks with the clear light bUic of the western 
 
 S9 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 sky. The lower slopes were dotted with the dull grey stone 
 dwellings of the Wassu and Changming peasantry, and the 
 great towers, erected in these villages, looked like church 
 spires in the distance. Above the cultivated fields rose 
 green forests of bamboo, white fir, birch, shrub and prickly 
 oak ; and just below the snow line the rhododendron forest 
 and higher yet the grassland topped by great craggy rocks, 
 their peaks covered with eternal snow. 
 
 In the valley beneath us, 4,000 feet below where we stood, 
 the Min, like a little stream of silver, ghstened in the sun- 
 shine. To the south the view was not so extensive, but 
 not less beautiful and interesting — the mountain wooded 
 almost to its base, and, far up its sides, small openings in the 
 forest where the perpetual smoke of the charcoal-burners 
 showed and the potash- makers were at work : the trees bend- 
 ing under their load of snow. 
 
 We looked northward to see if we were nearing the summit 
 of the mountain, which we had been toiling up for the last 
 two hours ; but on looking to the valley beneath us, from 
 which we had just come, and then toward the top of the 
 slope that contained our hunting-ground for the day, we 
 decided that we were not more than one-quarter way up. 
 We had chmbed 3,000 feet already, and the valley whence 
 we started was 5,000 feet above sea-level, so that our position 
 was quite 8,000 feet above the mighty ocean. 
 
 Our hunting-ground was covered with shrub bamboo, but 
 there were many open spots and run-ways here and there, 
 so, by choosing good positions, we had command of a con- 
 siderable stretch of mountain side. 
 
 Prince So's head hunter allotted us our position, and we 
 were all placed by 12 o'clock. 
 
 It was bitterly cold, for a strong wind had sprung up, and 
 the heat of the sun did not seem to have much eftect. 
 
 We knew from the barking of the dogs that game was 
 
NEAR SO TUSSU'S CASTLE; MOUNTAIN AT END OF VALLEY SIXTY MUT'^ 
 
sport in Wassu. 
 
 moving, but no shots had yet been fired ; everyone was ex- 
 pectantly waiting, for there was no telhng where the game 
 might pop out. 
 
 The dogs kept zigzagging back and forth up the mountain 
 side, at times coming near, again turning and apparently 
 driving the game right away and round the farther side of 
 the mountain. It was then the cold wdnd seemed to pierce 
 us, chilling us even to the marrow in our bones, and my own 
 hands got so cold that I don't think I could have held my 
 rifle steady if the dogs had brought something to my feet. 
 
 For a long time they had not come near my side of the 
 mountain, and their bark became almost indistinguishable 
 from the murmur of the wind. One second I imagined I 
 could hear them coming nearer and nearer, then the sound 
 would die away. Knowing that the game in this part of the 
 country are not afraid of smoke, so used are they to the char- 
 coal-burners, with their camps everywhere in these moun- 
 tains, I gathered at last some dry wild grass and bamboos, 
 and made a fire in a little nook under a rock close by my 
 station. 
 
 Finally, just as we were giving up hope of seeing anything 
 coming our way, we heard a shot round the corner of a hill, 
 and Mr. Meares rushed round just in time to meet a large wild 
 boar and give him a charge of buck shot at ten yards. This 
 bowled him over, but he recovered sufaciently to scramble 
 down the steep hillside for a distance. Mr. Brooke glided 
 down the hillside after him and gave him the coup-de-grace— 
 rather dangerous work, as a steep hillside covered with 
 thicket, in which a wounded boar is taking shelter, is not 
 the safest place in the world. 
 
 The hunters soon collected round, and were much pleased 
 to see a mass of pork, which they cut up and packed on their 
 backs. We then descended 3,000 feet back to the river bed 
 by one of the steepest tracks we had ever traversed. 
 
 93 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 We found it quite as difficult work safely to descend the 
 mountain side as it was to ascend it. The path was narrow 
 and covered with small round pebbles that rolled under our 
 feet, and we all took turns in unwillingly and somewhat sud- 
 denly sitting down. 
 
 We had not yet got used to our new footwear, and the 
 coarse hemp ropes of our sandals seemed to find tender spots 
 in our feet, and especially as we found our way down the 
 steep mountain side. Our toes would insist on finding their 
 way through the strands of rope, which felt as though they 
 were cutting ruts into the bones. We were glad when at 
 last we arrived at the inn and found a good supper of boiled 
 rice and curried chicken awaiting us, and I am sure the cook 
 was pleased with himself, for we licked the platter clean that 
 night. 
 
 We all felt quite proud of our iirst day's hunt, for although 
 we had not got anything remarkable for our arduous climb, 
 yet we had found there was something in the neighbourhood 
 worth hunting, and our first da}^ was not a blank. The 
 carcase of the wild boar, which we had divided among the 
 men, had put them all in the best of spirits, and they all 
 joined in earnest expectation for good success on the morrow. 
 
 When the hunters collected next morning they brought 
 the report that a ngaelu (cliff donkey), which we afterwards 
 discovered was a serow, had been seen near where we hunted 
 yesterday, so we set out early ; it had snowed some in the 
 night and the paths were quite slippery, but it was wonderful 
 how our hemp sandals gripped the rock. By lo o'clock we 
 were all in our places, for we did not go quite so high as on 
 the previous day. 
 
 Meares and I were posted in the river bed, and Brooke 
 went higher up on the mountain side with the hunters. 
 Old Wang, the head hunter, kept with Brooke, and they 
 took up their position on a little ledge of rock with cliffs on 
 
 94 
 
PRINCE SO (IN CENiKE), MR. MEAKE^ AND MR. KKOURE. 
 
Sport in Wa 
 
 two sides of them, on which the serow might at any moment 
 appear, should it be pressed hard by the dogs. 
 
 Hardly had they got to their places when some of the dogs 
 began to give tongue, and in a short time the beaters sent 
 dowTi the cry that a serow had gone to bay on one of the 
 crags on the opposite side of the cliff from where Brooke 
 and old Wang were located. But before any of the beaters 
 could get near enough to get a shot, the serow broke through 
 the dogs, and started up the mountain in quite the opposite 
 direction from what those experts had expected, and, getting 
 in the deep snow, was clean away. Another pack of dogs 
 that had been started simultaneously raised another serow, 
 and brought him round the lower end of the cliff. He was 
 too far away from Meares and myself to get a shot, 
 though we could see him like a little speck on the 
 mountain side. 
 
 Old Wang rushed down the mountain side by leaps and 
 bounds, and called to Brooke to follow on. Endeavour- 
 ing to keep up with Wang, an expert mountaineer, he soon 
 found himself in a sitting position, and came shding down, 
 rather to the damage of his trousers, but got off without a 
 scratch. The serow turned just as he was about to enter 
 the open ground, crossed his track, and went off in pursuit 
 of the first one. It was now getting late, and we thought 
 the sport was over for the day, but old Wang said there was 
 still a chance, for when they were coming up in the morning 
 they heard a goral blowing on the mountain side. He de- 
 clared these creatures did not travel far at this season of 
 the year, unless they were hunted, and that they would be 
 out feeding at this hour of the evening. 
 
 They called the dogs in by a shrill, long cry, followed by 
 
 several shorter ones, which echoed and re-echoed through 
 
 the mountain side, and the weary disappointed little creatures 
 
 were soon seen coming slowly back from three different direc- 
 
 (11243) 97 " 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 tions, just as the men had all collected in the valley where 
 Meares and I were posted. 
 
 One little stray dog, which the beaters had begun to grow 
 anxious about, lest it had pursued the serow too far up the 
 mountain into the deep snow, and had got eaten by a panther, 
 appeared; and just before him, far up the mountain side in 
 the clearing, a little coloured creature was seen hopping 
 along, almost like a rabbit. This the hunters declared was 
 a chitze, i.e., a chamois. He was over i,ooo yards from us, 
 and though we sent a few shots after him he escaped without 
 injury, and the dog left him in answer to the call of his master. 
 
 The dogs were sent home by one of the hunters, who took 
 us along on the other bank of the small stream. We followed 
 a narrow path, which led up to a potash-burner's hut, then 
 on, round the face of the cliff, and crossed over a precipice 
 bridged by rotten logs. These were pinned to the side of the 
 cUff by wooden pins as rotten as themselves ; for it was many 
 years since they were placed there by some venturesome 
 charcoal-burner, to enable him to collect suitable sticks for 
 burning in his kiln farther up the mountain side. The timber, 
 suitable for this purpose, having all been cut, the road was 
 long since discarded, and only these risky, fearless hunters 
 now pass over it. It would only bear one person at a time. 
 Old Wang said " siaosin, siaosin " (carefully, carefully), but 
 there was no need for his advice. In places there was a sheer 
 drop of 500 feet, and the only footing was a single rotten 
 log, not more than six inches in diameter when first placed 
 there, but now wasted to half that size, and we never knew 
 just how sound the remaining portion might be. Then there 
 was some snow lying on them in places, which added to the 
 treacherousness of the situation, and there was nothing to 
 hold to but the side of the rock, with here and there a small 
 brushwood that had grown out of some crevice on the cliff's 
 side, and on which one could not put much reliance. 
 
 9S 
 
Sport In Wassu. 
 
 The only thing was to look aloft, keep steady, and try 
 not to tliink of the danger, for if one's nerves go for a second 
 one's head would begin to swim and the danger be increased 
 many fold. 
 
 After about 500 yards of this we came out on a more sloping 
 hillside, but still not a place to slip on, for it was a long way 
 to the bottom, and soon came to a flat place, where there had 
 been an old hut. Here we stood still to scan the rocky cliff 
 on the opposite side of a small ravine just in front of us ; 
 it was here the hunters had heard the goral in the morning. 
 
 The keen eye of Wang soon picked out something which 
 he declared was a living creature ; but though he tried to 
 point it out to us, even with the aid of a good pair of binoculars, 
 we could see nothing but rocks and trees. Some of the men 
 were sent away round, to beat the side of the cliff, and drive 
 the goral our way ; but how they were to make their way 
 was a mystery; in fact, it seemed impossible, but these 
 men are like flies, they stick anywhere they set their feet. 
 
 We were a long time waiting. At length some of the 
 beaters got beyond, and came down near where Wang kept 
 telling us the animal stood ; we saw an object move. It 
 started to come toward us, suddenly it disappeared into a 
 hole in the rock ; the hunter followed, but could not find 
 where it was hid ; threw a stone into the hole, and out it 
 came within a few yards of him, and went sliding along the 
 face of the chff across the gulley from us more like a panther 
 than a goral. 
 
 When the goral came opposite to us he stopped ; the light 
 was failing when Brooke fired at about 200 yards, and 
 wounded him badly. He fell straight off the cliffs and turned 
 several somersaults before reaching the rocky bed of the 
 stream, and we expected to And the beast a mangled mass 
 at the bottom. With great difficulty we got down the face 
 of the cliff, but when we came to where we expected to find 
 (1 1243) 99 " 2 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 him, up he jumped and escaped without further damage from 
 the volley of shots which followed him. After running about 
 500 yards he halted, and Mr. Brooke bowled him over again, 
 and now we thought that he really was killed, and sent up 
 a hunter to carry him down. No sooner did the hunter ap- 
 proach the spot where he lay than up he jumped again ; we 
 had given our guns to the hunter to carry, and he escaped. 
 
 It was now getting very dark, and the paths were terrible, 
 so we thought that we had better get down to the level as 
 soon as possible. The hunter put a dog on the track of the 
 goral, saying he would drive it down, but we saw nothing 
 more of him that night. When we got safely back to the 
 main road we could still hear the faint sound of the dog baying 
 the goral in the pitchy darkness, right on the face of the 
 perpendicular wall of rock 2,000 feet above us. We never 
 expected to see the dog alive again, so sat down to wait events. 
 Suddenly from the face of the cliff shot out a flash of sparks 
 and a bang, then silence ; then the dog barked again, then 
 another flash and bang, then a final silence. After waiting 
 some time the other hunters said we had better get home, 
 though there was neither sight nor sound of their companion 
 who had gone after the goral. 
 
 The brave httle hunter followed the goat along the face 
 of the cliff in the dark, and had shot at it by hearing, and 
 then returned safely along those terrible tracks in the pitch 
 dark. Few foreigners would have cared to undertake so much 
 in broad dayhght. 
 
 On returning to the town we spoke to the chief about what 
 had happened, as we were quite anxious about the man, but 
 he only laughed and said, " My men are not Chinese." 
 
 The goral was brought in next morning badly bruised 
 from its fall over the cliff. It had stuck in the brushwood on 
 a narrow ledge, some 500 feet below where the hunter had 
 given it the coup-de-gracc the night before ; and to get the 
 
HLNTKRS SCANNING IHK MOUNIAIN SIDE FOR GORAI. 
 
sport in Wassu. 
 
 beast one of the men was roped and suspended over the side 
 of the cliff and attached the rope to the dead goral, which was 
 drawn up, and the rope again let down for the man, who 
 clung to the narrow ledge by the few bushes that grew out 
 of a crevice in the rock. We found that three shots had been 
 sent through the beast — one through the intestines, which 
 also broke one hind leg, the other not far behind the heart ; 
 and the little hunter's buckshot, one of which hit him in the 
 head, had bowled him over the cliff. 
 
 The vitality and agility of these animals is incredible. 
 The horns were so badly broken from the fall that the skin 
 was useless as a specimen. 
 
 The next day Meares and I went out on the other side of 
 the river ; the road was much better, but the game not so 
 plentiful. 
 
 Just as we were giving up, for we had patiently waited 
 for some hours, the dogs drove a chitze (chamois) down to 
 Meares. It came out of the undergrowth just behind him, 
 but turned before Meares got a shot, and came towards me, 
 the dogs hard after, one of them not more than ten paces 
 behind. I let drive at the chitze at about seventy yards, while 
 he was on the run, and shot him through, breaking a front 
 and hind leg ; so he did not go far, but managed to get down 
 the moimtain side some little distance before the dogs got 
 him. 
 
 One of the hunters and myself were soon at the spot and 
 recovered our prize from the dogs, who would have torn it 
 to pieces. We had each now bagged something, and felt 
 that we had also some experience in shooting in a moun- 
 tainous country. 
 
 Tussu now insisted that we should come up and spend the 
 next day with him in his castle on Tonglin, so we went, 
 and he had a feast prepared for us, and entertained us 
 royally. Brooke took his phonograph up, and the 
 
 103 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes, 
 
 whole countryside gathered in to hear it, so we spent a 
 lively evening. 
 
 The following morning we went over to the chief's private 
 temple, over 600 years old, and filled with the most obscene 
 idols I have ever seen. At the right of the door as one enters 
 the temple is the idol of Sakti, wife of the god Siva ; while 
 inside are the obscene idols of the Bon sect, the most vile 
 form of nature worship. 
 
 "The Tantras," or Sakti Bible, which presents Hinduism 
 at its worst and most corrupt stage of development, and 
 identifies all force with the female principle in nature, is no 
 longer used by this tribe, as their religion has been reformed 
 by the Lamaism of the Red Sect ; yet there is still much of 
 the Sakti superstition practised among all these tribes, and 
 there are some who still retain the old Tantras writings as 
 their standard of morality and holy living ; but I will write 
 of these things in another chapter. 
 
 The head Lama is a cousin of the chief, and is a pleasant 
 young fellow, but not inclined to give away much informa- 
 tion, or he may not be well acquainted with the early 
 writings to which I have just referred. The old Lama, who is 
 really dying of consumption, was well up in the subject, and 
 gave me a good deal of information, but tliis is not the place 
 to deal with this subject. 
 
 There were shelves piled with books written in Tibetan 
 character, but they did not look as if they were much used, 
 or as if the cobwebs were often swept off them. Old scrolls 
 with paintings of Buddha and the saints, or incarnations 
 decked the walls and hung from the beams. Candles were 
 kept burning in front of some of the idols, but many of them 
 were quite neglected. 
 
 The tribesmen seem to be losing confidence in the power 
 of these idols to perform the mighty things claimed for them 
 by the priests, and while they do not really profess Chris- 
 
 104 
 
Sport in Wassu. 
 
 tianity, they are a happy, jolly people, who deserve some- 
 thing better than they have ; and, when the missionaries 
 commence to work among them, they will prove themselves 
 to be a people worth working for. 
 
 We enjoyed our visit to the chief, and learned to understand 
 him better, as he was more free, when away from the Chinese. 
 He is a heavy opium-smoker, however, and is always pro- 
 posing to go to the hospital at Chentu and break it off, but 
 has not the courage to make the attempt. He is rather a 
 weak man, and the Chinese play a good deal on his good 
 nature. He fears that the chieftainship may soon be taken 
 from him, and the whole country put formally under the 
 Chinese official. This will probably take place in the near 
 future; as the Chinese are certainly planning to replace all 
 the hereditary chiefs of all these border states by Chinese 
 officials, appointed by the Emperor periodically, as in other 
 parts of China. 
 
 I should be sorry to see a people hke this lose their identity 
 and be completely absorbed by the Chinese, but it might 
 be the best thing for them, as they are at present despised 
 and down-trodden by their conquerors, as well as oppressed 
 by their chiefs and princes. The position of the ordinary 
 man and woman is that of vassal or slave, and they can never 
 expect to possess anything of their own. To eke out an 
 existence is about their only ambition under the present 
 system. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Hunting the Panyang. 
 
 We heard of a strange kind of sheep called "Panyang," 
 by the Chinese. It was reported to have long curved horns 
 and to live on the grass lands above the tree-line, which in 
 this latitude is ii,ooo feet. 
 
 The Prince showed us some skins, which were incomplete, 
 the native hunters having cut off the legs and head, con- 
 sidering them of no value. The horns and skulls also were 
 left on the mountains where they were shot ; so that these 
 skins were of no use as specimens, but we were able to get 
 some idea of the animal and its coat. The hair was of a 
 greyish blue or drab colour, white on the flanks and belly, 
 and black stripes bordering the flanks and down the front of 
 the legs. The hair was rather coarse but soft and thick, 
 more like a deer's coat than a sheep's, and could by no means 
 be called wool. 
 
 The description of the habits of these sheep, as given by 
 the natives, was sufficient to arouse our curiosity and we 
 determined to secure a specimen. The chief declared the 
 snow was too deep on the mountains for us to ascend to their 
 haunts, but on offering a reward for a skin in good condition 
 three hardy hunters volunteered to attempt the task. The 
 chief recommended that we should go to Tsaopo, a small 
 place lying back from the main road where his old palace is, 
 and which was once the headquarters of the Wassu Chief. 
 He put this old castle at our disposal and sent in word to his 
 retainers that wc were to be well looked after. No foreigner 
 
 1 06 
 
Hunting the Panyang. 
 
 had ever Uved in this locahty and only two or three had ever 
 visited it. The chief sent ten of his hunters with us, and we 
 were to wait in the valley near the castle, while the three 
 hunters, who had agreed to go up the snow-clad mountain 
 to secure a panyang, returned. 
 
 The next day, March 13, we set out, retracing out tracks 
 down the Min about seven miles to Sohchiao, where there is 
 a very long rope bridge suspended across the river. 
 
 Here a good sized stream coming from the west joins the 
 Min. We followed up this stream for about ten miles, crossing 
 it several limes. For the coolies this was easy enough, as 
 there were rope bridges over which foot passengers can make 
 their way ; but, I having my horse along with me, and the 
 planks being set so far apart that it was impossible for him 
 to cross the bridge, I had to take the pony down to the river 
 bed, and almost swim him through the swift waters. The 
 natives said it could not be done, or rather that it had never 
 been done ; but my pony was in good condition, and knowing 
 how to handle him, we soon crossed over and overtook the 
 party again. I had thus to cross the river several times, 
 as there were many places where the path ran along the side 
 of the cliff, where it was so narrow that it was impossible 
 for the horse to pass. At last we reached the junction of 
 two streams, the one still coming from the west, the other 
 from the south-west. Here the valley opened out more. 
 There were several water mills along the stream, and a great 
 part of the valley and part of the hillsides were cultivated ; 
 but the mountains towered up from 7,000 to 10,000 feet, and 
 the tops of them were deeply clad in snow. 
 
 We made our way up this valley by a zigzag path, and 
 about 4 o'clock arrived at the old castle. It is situated 
 on the spur of the mountain about 100 feet above the stream. 
 I found an old keeper in charge, who showed us the three 
 rooms we were to occupy. 
 
 107 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 The ground storey was really a stable, or large pen for 
 sheltering stock, but there were very few animals about, as 
 the people are very poor. They depend for a livelihood 
 on the timber trade, which is the chief industry of this section 
 of the country. The men also get something out of the 
 hunting, while the women do most of the farming and attend 
 to the water mills in which they grind their grain. We went 
 up a long stone staircase and entered a courtyard about 
 twenty-five yards square, and surrounded by a parapet which 
 on the inside was about three feet high, but when you looked 
 over the wall you saw it was quite twenty-five feet to the 
 ground on the outside. Passing through a long hall or corridor, 
 we turned to our left and found a suite of rooms, which were 
 very dark and dirty. The whole castle was unoccupied, 
 except for the caretaker and an old Lama. He performed 
 the priestly rites in the presence of the castle idols which 
 have their lofty abode on the fourth storey of the building, 
 and which are of the same obscene character as those found 
 in the temple at Tunglingshan, where the Tussu lives. 
 
 The interior of the castle was exceedingly gloomy ; the 
 dust and cobwebs of ages hung from every beam, the floors 
 had not been swept for years, let alone washed — a thing 
 indeed entirely unheard of in this country. Three of the 
 best rooms in the castle were filled with maize-cobs and husks, 
 which were stored for fuel : when these were turned out and 
 the rooms cleaned up a bit, they were quite habitable. In 
 this country, where for at least seven or eight months of the 
 year but little rain falls, every place is infested with fleas ; 
 and when we began to move about in the dust that had been 
 lying undisturbed for so long, it was like stirring up a bee's 
 nest, the fleas attacked us in earnest, and in the morning 
 we were all as much spotted as if we had had measles. 
 
 Soon after our arrival the chief's brother, who lives near 
 here, called and chatted till late. He partook of supper with 
 
 1 08 
 
Huntino- the Panyani 
 
 us, which consisted every day of bacon and eggs, or boiled 
 rice and bacon with Chinese scones : when we wanted a 
 change we reversed the order and had scones and bacon. 
 During the last two days the weather had been very fine, 
 and the hunters thought the snow might be melted off the 
 grass country above the tree-line, so we decided to go with 
 them to the top of Chienliangshan, where the panyang was 
 to be found. The hunters were not anxious to take us along, 
 as they knew the road was very difficult and in places 
 dangerous, which indeed we afterwards found out for our- 
 selves. After fitting out three light loads of 20 lbs. each, 
 which contained our bedding, a few extra garments and some 
 provisions consisting of about 5 lbs. of bacon, 10 lbs. of rice 
 and 20 lbs. of flour to make scones, with three tin cups, frying 
 pan and tea kettle, at 9 o'clock we left the castle, and 
 followed the stream till we came to the last habitation, where 
 we stopped for the night. Ii was a miserable, dirty little 
 hut ; but by stretching the bamboo mat across the tie beams 
 in the roof, which were about two feet apart, we succeeded in 
 making a place to spread our beds on. Fearing we might 
 not have sufficient food, we here bought some maize, and 
 during the evening amused ourselves and others by grinding 
 it in a hand mill. This we turned by means of poles attached 
 to the stones, and walking round and round till we were quite 
 dizzy, we finally managed to turn our maize into meal. 
 
 Next morning we started out at daybreak, and soon got 
 into deep snow drifts, some of them very treacherous, not 
 to say dangerous. The banks of stone along the river bed 
 were covered with a smooth coating of snow, which would 
 break through after one or two persons had passed over ; 
 we took turns in disappearing through the snow into the pits 
 below, but fortunately no one got hurt. Farther on, we had 
 to make a road through the thicket of dwarf bamboo bearing 
 a load of snow which bent the trees almost to the ground. 
 
 109 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 This was cold wet work, for the moment we touched one of 
 these trees a load of ice and snow was deposited on our heads 
 and necks. The path next ran along the face of the chff, 
 on slippery poles, sometimes horizontal, sometimes at an angle 
 of 10 or 15 degrees. These poles were pinned to the 
 rocks or suspended by the vine ropes. Next, we had to cross 
 and re-cross the stream on bridges, and what bridges ! Just a 
 tree eight inches in diameter, lying from bank to bank and on 
 top of it a crust of snow and ice six inches thick. If this crust 
 broke or the passenger lost his balance, the only issue was a 
 leap of thirty feet into the rocky bed of the roaring torrent. The 
 hunters walked boldly across these bridges and we followed, 
 treading in their footmarks. The brave coolies, with 20 lbs. 
 on their backs, followed in our steps, and seemed to think 
 little of it, so that we could not feel proud of our performance. 
 We struggled on thus for miles, crossing and recrossing the 
 stream, and at last turned sharply off and climbed a zigzag 
 path up the side of the mountain, the incline of which could 
 not have been less than 60 degrees. The snow was not so 
 deep here, but quite enough to make it very slippery walking. 
 However, by much struggling on hands and knees, we gradually 
 reached the belt of white firs, which begins at about 8,000 feet 
 above the sea, and continues to 10,000 feet. Then we passed 
 on through the rhododendrons, some of which were showing 
 a few buds. 
 
 A few months later the forest of white fir would ring with 
 the sound of the axe of the woodman, who comes all this way 
 to fell these trees, which he roughly squares into coffin boards 
 and sticks of timber, and carries on his back to one of the 
 towns on the banks of the Min, there to sell tliem for a few 
 shilhngs apiece to the wood merchants. But now all was 
 still, and in silence we toiled on till we emerged from the 
 rhododendron thickets into the grass land. We hunted about 
 for some time, seeking for a place where we could spend the 
 
Huntins>- the Panyant 
 
 night, and were about to camp under a shelving rock when 
 some of the himters, who were higher up the mountain side, 
 shouted for us to chmb on ; so, after tramping through deep 
 snow drifts and over cliffs for another hour, we found the 
 remains of another hut, which had been made by the herb 
 diggers the previous year. Here the snow had almost dis- 
 appeared, and the tufts of grass, yellow from the frosty winds 
 
 OUR CAMl' AT CHIENLIANGSHAN. 
 
 of the past winter, stood out against the barren crags that 
 dotted the mountain side. 
 
 Far above us towered a great range, its peaks covered 
 with eternal snow. The coolies arrived shortly after us, but 
 one of them had fallen over a cliff and had knocked out most 
 of his front teeth. Just after dark it grew bitterly cold and 
 began to snow, and as the coolies had no bedding with them, 
 and none too much clothing for this temperature, they had 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 to take most of the wood off the roof of the hut in order to 
 keep a fire burning for the night. Next day it was still snowing 
 heavily, but the men decided to go out and get some firewood, 
 so putting on their sandals and climbing irons, they descended 
 to the tree level and later returned with huge bundles of 
 wood. It was impossible to see any distance, and we remained 
 in camp all day. By the following morning it had ceased 
 snowing, and although the sun was not visible from where 
 we were, we could see its rays flashing with dazzling brilliancy 
 on a huge ice peak which shone up behind us another 8,000 
 or 10,000 feet. After some hours the sun drove away the 
 clouds which had hung over the lower ranges in the early 
 morning, and by 10 o'clock was shining brightly on us. Our 
 camp was about 11,600 feet above sea-level, and from here 
 we set out for the haunts of the wild sheep still thousands 
 of feet higher. The newly-fallen snow was knee-deep, and the 
 glare of the sun on it was so powerful that after going about 
 a mile, Meares became perfectly snow-blind, and returned 
 to camp, finding his way with great difficulty by feeling with 
 his hand the track we had made in ascending. Brooke, 
 two hunters and myself climbed on over some very rough 
 ground and came upon a flock of peimuhchi, a bird as large 
 as a turkey, which lives on these mountains. Brooke had a 
 shot at them, but as he, too, was almost snow-blind by this 
 time, he did not succeed in killing one. The light was such 
 that it was impossible to judge the distance. We found 
 afterwards that the birds were not more than 60 yards away, 
 but thought they were more than 100 yards when he fired. 
 The mist was now closing in on us again, and seeing that it 
 was useless to attempt to hunt in such weather we decided 
 to return to camp. The little hunter who was our guide said, 
 '* This is the shortest way back," and sitting down on the 
 steep snow slope, he shot off into the mist and disappeared. 
 This was all very well, but in a country which is mostly 
 
Hunting the Panyiing-. 
 
 precipitous, the longest way round is often the safest way 
 home, so we retraced our steps by the way we had come, and 
 returned safely to find that the little hunter had arrived 
 long before us, and after having finished his evening meal 
 was comfortably warming himself by the fire. The next 
 morning it was still snowing, so we determined to retrace 
 our steps to the foot of the mountain. We packed up our 
 things, and cut for ourselves strong alpine-stocks in preparation 
 for the dangerous descent. It was a difficult task to find our 
 way back as our track was completely obliterated ; but it 
 took much less time to get down the mountain than it did 
 to ascend it, and in many places we shot quickly down the 
 slopes in a sitting position, holding on to the branches of trees 
 to keep ourselves from going too fast. On our way back 
 we passed a wonderful hot sulphur spring which was building 
 for itself a marvellously coloured basin ; its waters were 
 so hot that we could scarcely bear to dip our hand in them. 
 We reached the castle at Tsaopo the same day without any- 
 thing to show for our trouble. The next morning we went 
 on to the hills near the castle, where there were a number of 
 goral about, one of which I picked off the top of a rock at 
 1,000 yards, much to the admiration of the natives, and Mr. 
 Brooke shot another a few minutes later, which the dogs 
 brought to him. The following day was a blank, but we 
 enjoyed life while waiting on our game-runs in the warm 
 sunshine, with snow mountain piled upon snow mountain in 
 view, contrasted with a brilliant blue sky. Many a man has 
 travelled thousands of miles to see a sight not half so mag- 
 nificent. We discovered that the panyang we had gone 
 after was the " blue sheep " (Ovis-nahura), or the Tibetan 
 Nawa, " the Bhural of India." These are common all over 
 this part of the country between the tree-limit and the snow- 
 line, that is, from 12,000 to 17,000 feet. The old males 
 leave the females in June or July and live by themselves. 
 (11243) n3 ^ 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 Both sexes have horns, but the horns of the females are much 
 smaller than those of the males. They have the habit of 
 always grazing near rocky ground, in which they take shelter 
 when startled by any strange object. And they always post 
 a sentry when feeding. He stands amid some jagged rocks 
 where he has a good view, and where it is impossible to dis- 
 tinguish him from the surroundings. He does not move his 
 head, and one is attracted to him, if at all, only by the sudden 
 bound he takes when leaving his watch tower, and which 
 is the signal to his companions that it is time to be off. The 
 natives first told me this story, and later, when crossing a 
 high range in July where these animals were feeding, I had 
 occasion to prove its truth. 
 
 Although I joined the hunting party for a few days, I tried 
 not to forget my own special work among these people, and 
 always had books with me to give to the mountain dwellers, 
 whenever I came in contact with them. While in the old 
 castle, I found the Lama had procured a copy of the Gospel 
 from me on a former visit, and had read it frequently, for it 
 was well thumbed and worn. This copy he took from the 
 shelf, and, turning up several passages which he could not 
 understand, I tried to explain them to him. During the 
 past two weeks I had learned to understand these people 
 better than ever before, and they had come to look on me 
 as a friend. We had many long chats about their difficulties 
 and social problems which constantly confront them. Some 
 of them expressed the hope that the Chinese would soon do 
 away with the existing feudal system, and accept them as 
 Chinese subjects. Many of them say the burden imposed on 
 them by their chiefs and princes, together with the tribute 
 that has to be collected by the Chinese Government, is greater 
 than they can bear. Some of them would gladly make friends 
 with the missionaries and even join themselves to the Church 
 in the hope that they might be in some way released from their 
 
 114 
 
1 luiuiiiL;- the Panyan^:;-. 
 
 bondage of feudal service imposed upon them ; but, of course, 
 the missionary can offer them nothing in this direction. These 
 were burning questions with them, but they would only speak 
 of them in a whisper, and to those who are their friends. 
 What these people need is education, that they may be able 
 to take their place in the nation, and that they may hnd 
 their place in God's kingdom. 
 
 I had now to return to my work at Clientu, and left the 
 party to continue their wandering alone. 
 
 (11243) 115 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Hunting the Serow. 
 
 jMessrs. Brooke and Meares decided that they must try 
 and get a serow before leaving this part of the country, so on 
 March 25th they started off with some hunters and their dogs 
 to Taokwan valley, which is a famous place for these animals. 
 They pitched their tent in a nice httle spot near the banks 
 of the stream and hunted for some days, but shot nothing 
 but a few small deer. There were plenty of serow about, but 
 the dogs were afraid to tackle them. Finding it useless to 
 continue with the dogs they had, they struck camp and went 
 down to Taokwan, a village from which the valley derives 
 its name, and there secured two good hunters with four ex- 
 cellent dogs. One of these men had been with us on Chien- 
 liang mountain. Thus equipped they returned to their 
 camping ground, and hardly had they set out when the dogs 
 got on the track of a serow. The hunters were all waiting 
 on the game-run on the top of the ridge, when Meares thought 
 he heard the sound of an animal in the brushwood below ; 
 but his hunter declared there was nothing, and suggested 
 that he should go down and watch another game-run on the 
 other side. He did so, and subsequent proceedings in- 
 terested him no more. 
 
 Hardly had he left, than four dogs, closely followed by a 
 hunter, dashed past him through the undergrowth ; an 
 animal had passed quite close without their having seen it. 
 Wang at once drew his curved knife and slashed his way 
 down the steep hillside through the briars and thorns. Brooke 
 
I luntinL;- the Scrow. 
 
 followed him, slidhig, running, faUing, anything to catch up 
 with the dogs, which were now chasing tlie serow down the 
 river bed toward Taokwan. Around a waterfall which poured 
 over a huge boulder they found four dogs barking, and made 
 a cave underneath. Wang declared that the serow had 
 taken refuge under the boulder, and Brooke nearly drowned 
 himself trying to get under to see. Another hunter now 
 arrived on the scene, and immediately stripping off his clothes 
 made another attempt to get into the cave, but without 
 success. 
 
 They then dammed up part of the river with stones and 
 turned aside enough of the stream to allow him to get under 
 the rock, but found nothing. The owner of the pack now 
 arrived on the scene, and declared that the serow had gone 
 down the stream, so they again raced on and came to a group 
 of Chinamen staring in the vacant way they sometimes 
 have when greatly surprised. On going across to inquire 
 if they had seen anything of the animal, there, lying in their 
 midst, they found a fine serow, with its throat cut and its 
 legs badly hacked, and beside it a Chinaman badly gored. 
 Brooke did what he could for the poor victim and had him 
 taken to a neighbouring house. He wanted to send him into 
 the hospital at Chentu, but the man refused to go, and, after 
 lingering for some days, he died. It appears that the two 
 dogs bayed the serow, and the Chinese, thinking that there 
 was money to be made, attacked the animal with clubs. It 
 charged, and drove its horns through one of them. One of 
 the party succeeded in ham-stringing the animal, and in 
 some way they managed to kill him. In the meantime Meares 
 had gone to the top of the mountain opposite and returned 
 to camp in time to meet them coming in with the dead serow. 
 
 Next day they hunted up the left hand valley, and early 
 in the morning sent out hunters to act as stops along the 
 tops of the hills. Meares was posted at a point lialf way up 
 
 117 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 the mountain on one side of the stream, and Brooke was 
 higher up on the opposite bank. 
 
 As Meares was going up into his position he again got a 
 ghmpse of a serow dashing through the trees, but could not 
 get a shot at it. The dogs soon got on its track, and after 
 a long chase drove him right past Brooke, who dropped 
 him at forty yards. It was a fine female, and a good match 
 for the male they had secured the previous day. One of the 
 dogs was still hunting something, and finally drove another 
 serow past Brooke, which also he shot ; but this one was 
 immature. 
 
 The following day Meares stayed in camp to prepare the 
 skins, while Brooke went out in the neighbouring hills. After 
 working a short time Meares heard a tremendous row, and 
 picking up his rifle went out to find the dogs driving a serow 
 right towards the camp, and it went to bay on the ledge of 
 a rock not more than lOO yards away. He tried to get a 
 shot at it, but could not for fear of hitting the dogs, which 
 were all over him. Finally one of the hunters shot the beast 
 at close quarters. 
 
 This finished the serow hunt, and they struck camp and 
 returned to Wenchuan. The Mandarin prepared a great 
 feast in their honour, and gave them the chief seats, making 
 himself very agreeable. He plied them with many ques- 
 tions — no doubt his chief object being to find out their busi- 
 ness and their intentions regarding their future movements. 
 They had the advantage of not being too familiar with the 
 language which he spoke, he being Cantonese, and, as their 
 interpreter was at another table, it was a very simple matter 
 to say " Putong," that is, " I don't understand," to any 
 question they felt was unnecessary to answer. As it was 
 important for Brooke to go to Chentu to have some dental 
 work done — for he had suffered much during the past month 
 with his teeth — it was sufficient in reply to their host's ques- 
 
 ii8 
 
Huntincj the Serow. 
 
 tion to give this as their ])urp()sc, and to add that Meares 
 was going down as far as Yinlisiuwan, the lumber centre, 
 two days to the south. It rather reheved the Mandarin's 
 mind to feel he was getting rid of these strangers, who had 
 been wandering about on the hills and valleys of this neigh- 
 bourhood for more than a month. He w^as politeness itself, 
 however, and they parted on the most friendly terms. 
 
 On their journey down they met two hunters who had just 
 
 MR. BROOKE AND HIS FIRSl 
 
 caught a young takin, which they offered for sale. Brooke 
 jumped at the chance of securing the first specimen of this 
 animal, for when he left England there was not a live one 
 in the Zoo, and this wonderful little creature was very much 
 prized by us all. He was low set, had very heavy legs, and 
 was about as large as a three months' old lamb, only much 
 heavier, rather clumsy in his gait, but not at all wild or timid : 
 there was not much trouble to teach it to take its food first 
 
 119 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 from a bottle, and later out of a dish. Brooke had him 
 carried to Chentu, where we cared for him for nearly three 
 weeks. He grew to be a most affectionate little creature, 
 and would follow us all about our compound like a little 
 dog, even coming into the house at times. Meares sent down 
 a young goral a few days later, so we had both these animals 
 going about the courtyard, and they became really good 
 friends. The young goral soon made friends with our cow, 
 and was most anxious to help milk her. One morning, un- 
 fortunately, the cow stepped on the goral's leg and broke 
 it ; we did all we could for the poor beast, but after lingering 
 a few days he died. The takin seemed to do well for quite 
 three weeks, when suddenly one morning, after taking its 
 breakfast, it appeared sickly, and that day refused to take 
 any more food, and died during the night. 
 
 For the loss of this most valuable animal Brooke blamed 
 his boy, who had given it some sour milk the morning it took 
 ill, and had not been careful about scalding out the dish from 
 which it fed. We found this out, however, when it was too 
 late. 
 
 Meares soon secured a hunter to go with him, who 
 proved himself an excellent cliff climber as well as a good 
 marksman. He knew every inch of the country, and thought 
 nothing of going into the most precipitous places, pene- 
 trating every nook and cranny where the game peculiar to 
 this country is likely to hide. He was also quite a naturalist, 
 knowing the habits of the various animals, as well as their 
 haunts and calls. Meares found him a most congenial com- 
 panion and a good sportsman, his one fault being that he 
 smoked opium, though only at night when they returned 
 from the chase. He writes of his hunting expedition thus : — 
 " As my new guide believed in still hunting we started off 
 without dogs, taking nothing but a small lunch in our pockets. 
 Our object was to follow the goral to his own hunting ground 
 
Hunting the Serow. 
 
 on the face of tlie cliffs. This is very dangerous work, as 
 they make their homes on the most precipitous places, and 
 hide in the caves and crevices of the rocks. The only way 
 to get to them, when still hunting, is to walk along the narrow 
 ledges, sometimes with a sheer drop of i,ooo feet and only 
 a few inches of shelving rock to stand on ; but generally there 
 are small trees and shrubs growing out of the cracks of the 
 rocks, that afford one a hand hold while carefully treading 
 one's way along these dangerous ledges. The little hunter 
 was so used to his work that he could trot over places that 
 made my head swim, and he would lean his body out over 
 the side of the cliffs in search of game to such an extent that 
 I often feared for his safety, and expected to see him go 
 dashing on the rocks below at any minute. There was no 
 need for alarm, however, on my part, so far as his safety 
 was concerned, for I soon found out that he knew his business 
 thoroughly, and that my whole concern need be about myself 
 and the game we expected to see at any minute. He would 
 place me on an important game-run, then circle round. If 
 he started anything and could not get a shot at it he drove 
 it towards me, and we never returned empty-handed during 
 the days we hunted in this locality. 
 
 " One day I hit a big wild boar and broke his shoulder. 
 He went to bay in some long grass. The little hunter at 
 once rushed in after him and gave him a charge of buckshot 
 at close range, which so disgusted the boar that he threw 
 himself over the cliff, and we found him dead and vcr^- much 
 mangled on the stones at the bottom. He was the largest 
 wild boar I had ever seen ; one of his hind legs had been 
 broken at some time but had mended again. 
 
 " The hard hunting on the cliff day after day was too much 
 for me, and the tendon of my heel got strained and swollen 
 to double its size. With a great effort I managed to get 
 to my inn and had to lie up the next day. So Tussu arrived 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 in the evening and put up in the same inn. A httle later 
 a runner came in with the news that So Tussu's castle was 
 being attacked by brigands, and begged him to hurry to 
 the rescue. The Chief pleaded with me to accompany him 
 and bring my rifle along, offering his horse for me to ride 
 on. Seeing he was in trouble I decided to go along ; so 
 bhstered my heel to reduce the swelling, and next morning 
 we started off early. After two days' forced marching we 
 reached the castle where the old Tussu, So's father, lived. 
 On our arrival we were told that the robbers had heard of 
 our coming, and had retreated into the mountains, and we 
 heard nothing more of them during my stay. The old castle 
 is situated at' Sanchiangkou [i.e., Three Rivers Mouth]. The 
 castle is hid away in the mountains in a very picturesque 
 place, where three streams, one coming from the west, one 
 from the north, and one from the east, join. This was once 
 the southern capital of the States, and is quite a typical Mantze 
 castle. Over lOO years ago the Prince was asked by the 
 Viceroy of Szechwan to move from here to Tunglin, where 
 the northern capital now stands, so as to be near the Chinese 
 official at Wenchuan, who is nominally responsible for the 
 affairs of the Wassu State, and through whom all reports 
 to the Chinese Government is made. 
 
 " I spent a few days getting some very interesting fossils, 
 which are quite plentiful in these valleys. The country is 
 very mountainous, with out-crops of limestone, and in some 
 places granite, quartz and mica schist are to be found ; but 
 as I am not a geologist I will not attempt to give a full de- 
 scription of the geological structure of this country, but I 
 feel sure it will prove a very interesting field for the scientist. 
 
 " I started back to the inn in Yinhsiuwan on horseback, 
 but on the second day my horse broke down and I had to 
 finish my journey on foot, and arrived very much of a wreck. 
 I laid up for some days, and watched the rafts being built 
 
Hunting the Serow 
 
 which were to shoot the rapids for a distance of thirty miles down 
 to Kwanhsien. The square sticks of timber are fastened 
 together into long narrow rafts, the logs being laid over- 
 lapping each other, and then fastened together with ropes 
 of twisted bamboo, which are lashed up tight and then driven 
 firm with wedges. The result is a raft that is firm and yet 
 
 THE GORAL SHOT BY THE AUTHOR A'l 
 
 ,000 YARl 
 
 pliable. One long oar is mounted on the bow and another 
 on the stern. When all is ready six men are lashed to each 
 oar, the ropes are cut, and off goes the raft dashing through 
 the rapids, water breaking over the heads of the men, who 
 are straining at the oars to avoid the rocks that croj) up 
 everywhere. I saw one raft strike a rock, and not only was 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppe 
 
 the raft broken apart, but the very logs werts snapped into 
 pieces hke so many dry twigs, and only three out of the twelve 
 men on the raft got ashore ; the rest were drowned. The 
 men who do this work have wonderful nerve, but a large 
 number of them annually find a watery grave." 
 
 While Meares was waiting at Yinhsiuwan some hunters 
 brought in another young goral alive, and he sent it on to 
 Brooke at Chentu ; but, unfortunately, it also died, the 
 heat of the plain seeming to be too much for it. Another 
 hunter brought in two golden-haired monkeys he had just 
 shot. These were carefully skinned and forwarded to Chentu, 
 and one of them is now mounted in the South Kensington 
 Natural History Museum. These monkeys are remarkable 
 animals : they have bright blue faces and dark brown eyes ; 
 their nose looks as if a bright blue butterfly was sitting with its 
 wings open in the middle of their face ; they have a long golden 
 mane down their back. At Kwanhsien I saw a skin with 
 hair eighteen inches long and valued at £12 15s. These skins 
 are collected and sent to the Imperial Family, and when 
 made up into garments are allowed to be worn by them only. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 Haunts of the Budorcas. 
 
 When I returned to Chentu at the end of March I found 
 plenty of work awaiting me, but by working hard early and 
 late I soon overtook it, and on May lo again set out on one 
 of my long tours through the semi-independent States, called 
 by the Chinese Mantze Land (the Land of the Barbarian). 
 This trip had been planned in the previous autumn, when I 
 made out my annual report. Mr. Brooke, on learning of my 
 intention to take this journey, was anxious to accompany me, 
 so made his plans accordingly. When I reached Wenchuen I 
 found him and Mr. Meares awaiting my arrival. I immediately 
 went to see Prince So, to try and get a letter of introduction 
 to some of the princes of the interior States through which 
 I wished to travel. I was much disappointed, however, to 
 hear that he had not yet returned from his southern capital, 
 but his secretary informed me that he expected him any day, 
 and that he had sent word that he had already started for 
 home. It was important to have a letter from him, as the 
 territory through which I hoped to travel had not previously 
 been visited by any foreigners, and the letters he gave me 
 on former occasions had been a great help while travelhng in 
 the Central States of Somo, Drukagi, Ranga, Damba, Chos- 
 schia, Bawang, Bati, Gaishechia, and also on my journey over 
 the Hungchiao Pass and in the Muping State. This time my 
 plan was to get farther north and cross through Ngaba,Ngolok 
 and Youkoh States, then down through Gaishechia, a journey 
 Avhich would take at least three months. I had a large supply 
 
 125 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes, 
 
 of Scriptures with me to distribute among the priests and 
 any people who could read. The Tibetan Scriptures are 
 taught throughout this section of the country, but the spoken 
 language would not be understood in Tibet proper. I had a 
 friend at Tsakalao who, I knew, would give me a letter to 
 some of these chiefs ; but on former journeys I had started 
 from this point, and kept my connection right through by 
 being handed from one prince to another, thus going from 
 State to State ; and I felt it very important to adhere to a 
 plan which formerly had proved so successful. 
 
 Having decided that it was best to wait the return of the 
 Prince, we planned to spend a few days visiting the Changmin 
 villages, which are to be found far up the mountain side. 
 Many of these villages are also hid away in deep valleys, 
 where they cannot be seen from the main road. On hearing 
 that another party was on their way up to hunt the takin 
 in these mountains, we thought it might be worth our while 
 to see if these Changmin people knew anything about these 
 strange animals, the budorcas or takins, and their haunts, 
 as it was reported that they captured a great number of them 
 every year. 
 
 On the street we had a Mohammedan friend, who has a 
 great deal to do with the Changmin people. At the present 
 time he owns much of the land occupied by them, having 
 taken mortgages on their property, which they have not been 
 able to redeem ; their deeds have fallen into his hands, and 
 they now find themselves renting their lands from him. 
 Indeed, he has almost as much power over the Changmin as 
 Prince So has over the Wassu people. 
 
 This Mohammedan started life as a poor boy, selling scones 
 on the street at four a penny. Having shrewd business capacity, 
 his fortune has grown until, at the age of 65, he owns over 
 200 mules, which carry much of the goods passing between 
 Songpan and Kwanshien. He buys up all the gold and musk 
 
 126 
 
Haunts of the Budorcas. 
 
 of the district, supplies the farmers with seed grain, and in 
 the autumn buys up any produce they may have to dispose 
 of. He is also squire of the country side, and tries more cases 
 than the magistrate, since every case which reaches the higher 
 officials must first pass through his hands ; and many cases 
 are settled without going further, he receiving a small fee for 
 his trouble per case. He is now very wealthy, and by far 
 the most influential man in this part of the country ; and 
 even the mandarins borrow large sums of money from him 
 when they wish to purchase billets. Mr. Ma has been very 
 friendly to me for some years, and to have him on one's side 
 implies practically the whole of the Changmin and Chinese 
 community. 
 
 We inquired of him about the haunts of the takin and 
 the people who five in the valleys and mountains to the north- 
 west. He at once supplied us with a guide and sent word to 
 the headman of one of the Changmin villages, hid away in 
 a deep valley surrounded by lofty mountains. Though no 
 foreigner had penetrated this valley before, we found the 
 headman and many of the people awaiting our arrival on the 
 commons outside the village ; they gave us a hearty welcome, 
 and escorted us to apartments provided by the headman. 
 We spent a pleasant afternoon chatting with the people, who 
 freely gathered about us ; and as they offered to supply 
 hunters to guide us to a place where they claimed that the 
 takin roamed in herds, we decided to go up with the hunters 
 and see if we could secure some of these animals. 
 
 The next morning we started early, taking supphes for three 
 days, and followed up a small stream which we crossed and 
 recrossed hundreds of times, having to wade sometimes nearly 
 waist deep through the cold water, which came rushing 
 down from the snow-clad peaks all about us. By noon we 
 came to a deserted lumberman's hut, and as it was raming, 
 our men took possession of it to prepare dinner. But before 
 (1 1243) ^-9 '" 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 they had got the fire well kindled they came rushing out as 
 if they were possessed, some of them rolling on the gra'^s, 
 others beating themselves with their caps, others tearing 
 off their clothes in such a wild way that we thought they must 
 have stirred up a nest of deadly vipers. What they had 
 actually deranged was in fact a nest of fleas, but such fleas 
 I had never seen before. They were as large as the small 
 black fly of Canada and quite as ferocious. The faces, hands, 
 feet and clothing of the coohes were hterally covered with these 
 creatures, and every bite left a great red blotch ; nor could 
 they have made more fuss if they had been attacked by a 
 nest of hornets. Needless to say, we chose another camping 
 ground and ate our dinner in the pouring rain. 
 
 By 4 o'clock we were in a dense forest, where there were 
 plenty of takin tracks, but these not very fresh. We chmbed 
 up to the snow-line and there found an old woodcutter's hut, 
 built out of coffin boards and roofed with bark ; in this the 
 coolies took shelter. We cut some spruce boughs, and by 
 propping up some of the coffin boards, managed to make a 
 flat place on the side of the mountain on which to spread 
 out our beds, and put up our tent as best we could ; but it 
 was impossible to get room to stretch it tight enough to keep 
 it from leak'.ng. We were a forlorn-looking lot ; our clothing 
 was wet through and even our bedding none too dry, and the 
 tent was leaking. Fortunately there was plenty of wood, 
 so we built a huge fire in the coolies' hut and sat round it, 
 everyone trying to dodge the streams of yellow water that 
 streamed through the leaking roof. 
 
 After our evening meal we turned in, and our bed of wet 
 boughs seemed really comfortable after our arduous tramp. 
 Towards morning we heard the screeching of a wild animal of 
 some kind, but none of us were sure what it was. 
 
 After breakfast we all started out in various directions, 
 each with a native guide. I went up through the firs to the 
 
Haunts of the Hudorcas. 
 
 rhododendron forest, and along the top of one of the ridges 
 where the snow still lay deep ; but all I could find were tracks, 
 most of which were several days old, and two old traps set to 
 spear animals as they passed over the game-ways. These 
 were made with a spring pole, on the end of which had been 
 attached a sharp knife ; there was a trip spring which the 
 animal would strike with his feet and release the spring pole, 
 which would drive the knife through his side, presumably 
 just behind the front shoulder. 
 
 These traps had been set by the woodcutters or hunters 
 the previous year. The knives had been taken away, so that 
 when we saw them they were harmless ; but one of our guides 
 showed us a mark in his thigh where one of these knives had 
 been driven through one thigh and into the other by one 
 of these spring poles or traps, and the hunter needs to be on 
 the look-out when tramping through a forest. 
 
 One day, while we were sitting on the top of one of the 
 ridges eating our lunch, there came suddenly a great crash 
 and roar as if the earth had spht in two, and even the hunters 
 looked aghast; but it was only a landshde, and part of one of 
 the mountains was seen sliding down into the valley. In 
 some places the path would lead us along a narrow ridge 
 where a slip of the foot on either side would land us at the 
 foot of the precipice several hundred feet below. Again, 
 we would climb high staircases made by notching a log and 
 setting it on end against thechff ; in other places sticks of wood 
 were tied to uprights by creepers, and up these we had to 
 climb until it made our heads giddy to look down. How the 
 takin makes his way about in such a country is a mystery to 
 me, but in the early spring here he is to be found, during his 
 short period of migration from the sheltered valley in which 
 he has passed the winter, to the grassy plains where he feeds 
 during the summer months. We saw plenty of fresh tracks, but 
 unfortunately did not meet one of these wonderful creatures. 
 (11243) 131 K z 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 The spell that sometimes comes over one; standing on some 
 lofty peak admiring the work of nature, is indescribable. 
 People say it is necessary to go to church to recognise the 
 sublimity and omnipotence of a Supreme Being; but they can 
 have no idea of the meaning of the words till they have gazed 
 on such wonderful scenes as are unveiled before one's eyes 
 in such a country as this, where nature has been untarnished 
 by the hand of man. There is no cathedral in the world 
 Avhich can compare with God's handiwork, and one often 
 feels His presence nearer in the open church of nature than in 
 the buildings and dress of conventional religion. 
 
 We had received word that Prince So had returned to his 
 castle, and we immediately struck camp and returned to 
 Wenchuan, that no further time might be lost. The stream 
 which had been so difficult to cross when coming up was now 
 flooded with heavy rains, and was rushing shoulder deep 
 over the boulders, so that it was only with much difficulty 
 and danger that we succeeded in getting our coolies safely 
 over. On the way down I called at So Tussu's castle to see 
 the Chief and try and get the letter of introduction that we 
 had been waiting for. On this occasion, however, he flatly 
 refused to give one for the Ngaba and Ngolok chiefs, as he 
 declared there was war going on between them and Somo. 
 Of this trouble I had previously heard something, but thinking 
 it might not be very serious, I was anxious to tr}' and get through 
 that country if possible. Prince So was quite friendly and 
 gave me a similar letter to the one of the previous 3'ear on 
 condition that I should not try to enter the territory where 
 the fighting was going on. Then we said good-bye, and 
 I went down to the city to make our arrangements for a 
 forward movement on the morrow. 
 
 Brooke and myself continued our journey westward, 
 following the valley of the Min as far as Weichow, where 
 we crossed the rope bridges that span the I\Iin and the Siho 
 
Haunts of the Hudorcas. 
 
 West River, and followed up the banks of the latter, passing 
 through a barren-looking country where the only sign of 
 anything green was the cultivated fields along the valley 
 and hillsides. Sage brush was the only natural vegetation. 
 
 On many peaks were to be seen the villages of the Changmin 
 scattered along the mountain side. These villages were often 
 scarcely distinguishable from their surroundings, being built of 
 the native stone which is the same dull colour as the barren- 
 looking mountains, but in this section of the country between 
 Weichow and Lifan there are at least 50,000 of this remnant 
 of the ancient occupants of the province of Sechuan, They 
 are now under the Chinese Government, and have had no 
 chiefs of their own for nearly 1,000 years. They are still 
 looked down on by the Chinese, though they have adopted 
 Chinese customs and habits to a great extent. They dress 
 in a coarse woollen cloak which is suitable to protect them 
 from the cold winds that continually blow in these mountains. 
 The women speak their own patois, which is not understood 
 on opposite sides of the river ; the men all speak Chinese, 
 many of them " broken " enough ; and very few of them 
 are able to read the Chinese character. They have no written 
 language of their own. The Chinese Government is estab- 
 lishing schools in some of these villages, and the coming 
 generation is encouraged to attend them. I visited several 
 of these schools, and the people were most friendly. 
 
 We next visited Lifan or Paongan, where there are two 
 Chinese oificials, one a civil and the other a military, who 
 nominally have authority over a large section of the country 
 to the west and north, but being located in the south-east 
 corner of their jurisdiction they have little or no power over 
 such remote parts as Somo, Drukagi, Ranga, Damba or Ngaba, 
 which are entirely governed by their own princes and chiefs. 
 
 However, they claim the same right as the Chinese do in 
 Tibet proper, i.e., that these States must supply the Chiilcse 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 with free transports when travelUng through the country, 
 and once in seven years visit Peking with tribute which 
 consists of the natural produce of each State. 
 
 At Lifan we visited my old friend, Mr. Wang, the Chinese 
 civil official. He was most friendly, but tried to persuade us 
 not to go north into Ngaba, and said he could not give us 
 any permit into that country. Indeed, he showed us an order 
 from the Viceroy to keep foreigners out of all the semi- 
 independent States, on account of a German traveller having 
 got into serious difficulty with the Golok the previous year. 
 
 As I was an old friend, he consented, after a lot of talk, 
 to give us a pass. It stated we might go where we wished, 
 in terms so vague, that it appeared we might go where we 
 would ; but Wang added a verbal warning to us to be very 
 careful and not get into trouble, and to keep clear of any 
 districts where there might be any local feuds going on. 
 
 He sent the same old Lingpan or escort with us who had 
 accompanied me on my former journeys, so I felt pretty 
 safe, and was very glad that the German gentleman's troubles 
 of the previous year had not blocked the way for another 
 journey into a most interesting country. 
 
 At Lifan I met my old friend, Colonel Kao, who was down 
 from Tsakalao on business, and who gave us a pressing invita- 
 tion to stay with him at his yamen. 
 
 On the way to Tsakalao we spent the night at the home 
 of another friend. Colonel Gou, who has command of the 
 Kamba mihtary camp. They were dehghted to see me again, 
 and the best they had was not too good. These officers live 
 in old feudal style, having many servants who have been born 
 on the estate, and who are practically members of the family, 
 or at least in many respects are so treated as such ; yet they 
 preserve a certain distance all the same and have great respect 
 for their master and mistress and family. These servants 
 appear to be perfectly happy, and arc given their clothes and 
 
 134 
 
Haunts of tht; Biulorcas. 
 
 food, besides a little spending money when they go to the 
 city, but they have no stated wage. 
 
 One member of every family must hold himself in readiness 
 to bear arms for the Chinese Government, whenever they 
 should be called on, and they receive the small annual allow- 
 ance of about five shillings during times of peace, and 
 fifteen shillings per month when called to service. 
 
 There are five of these camps, each under a colonel, and 
 are called by the Chinese Wutun (five camps), viz., Shang- 
 mungtun, Shamungtun, Kintzechai, Kamba and Tsakalao, 
 the latter being the most important. 
 
 There are between 600 and 800 men on the road at each 
 camp. I have visited each of these, and found all the colonels 
 and people most friendly. At first they were suspicious, 
 but now we are the best of friends, and I am always taken 
 into their castles or yamen and treated with entire 
 kindness. 
 
 As this is mainly a narrative of travel I must not go into 
 any detail about customs and habits of these people, but will 
 just say that at one time the strongest of all the tribal chiefs 
 controlled the affairs of this valley. He rebelled against the 
 Chinese Government, and a large army was sent against him. 
 He was overthrown, and his castle, which was located near 
 the place where the town of Tsakalao now stands, was razed 
 to the ground. The Prince was captured and put to death, 
 and five Chinese colonels were placed in control of the five 
 camps above mentioned. They took to themselves wives of 
 the daughters of the native chiefs, and later were given 
 hereditary colonelships, on condition that they kept the people 
 loyal and peaceable. To-day we lind a mixed race. There 
 is a good deal of Chinese blood in them ; as each colonel 
 marries the daughter of one of the semi-independent princes of 
 the eighteen tribes, the Chinese strain in the families of these 
 hereditary colonels is considerably lessened ; but the^' are 
 
 135 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 all loyal to the Chinese Government. After spending two 
 days visiting the district and the large monastery here, we 
 moved on to Tsakalao and stopped with my old friend, Colonel 
 Kao, who would not hear of our putting up in the inn. 
 
 No word had arrived of Meares, who was to have met us 
 here. But a short time after we left Tsakalao he arrived, 
 quite broken up after the rough time he had during his search 
 for the takin. He sent a coolie after us, who overtook us 
 about ten miles out, and Brooke returned to Tsakalao to see 
 the skins Meares had secured, and to arrange about their 
 being forwarded to Chentu. I continued my journey alone 
 until they overtook me by making forced marches. Meares 
 separated from us on I\Iay 17 Ih, and started off with three hunters 
 and a coolie, a little bedding, and a limited supply of food. 
 After three days' hard tramp up a most terrible path, he 
 reached a spot where the takin was supposed to abound. The 
 mountains were so steep that it was difficult to find a level 
 space on which to pitch their tent, and so they all camped 
 out under an overhanging rock. After unpacking the loads, 
 Meares took his rifle and went out for a stroll. He had not 
 gone more than 200 yards from the camp when he found 
 the fresh tracks of a takin cow and calf. He followed these 
 tracks for a long way until they crossed a stream, on the 
 other side of which they left evidence that they had very 
 recently moved away. He followed them on through the 
 bamboo thickets until darkness closed in and he had to leave 
 them and return to camp. 
 
 Next day they again got on their tracks and followed them 
 up to a salt spring where the takin congregate, and where 
 they had made broad, beaten-down paths running in all the 
 points of the compass, but their quarry had not stopped 
 long here, and they followed it on over the mountain tops 
 till evening began to fall, when they had to abandon the 
 chase. For the next week, from daylight till dark, they were 
 
Haunts of the Budorcas. 
 
 out scouring the mountains without seeing any trace of the 
 takin. 
 
 One day was Hke the next. They rose every morning as 
 soon as it was hght, cooked a meal of rice and bacon, and then 
 off to the mountains, always climbing upwards, pulling 
 themselves up by the rhododendron roots, and sometimes 
 falling back again, and so on upwards to the heights where it 
 was hard to get one's breath. The most depressing part was 
 that there seemed to be no living things in the mountains ; 
 only once or twice they saw a tiny mouse-rabbit, and on one 
 other occasion, when high up on the mountains, ^Ir. ]\Ieares 
 was surrounded by an army of angry little birds, tiny tits 
 and small brown birds, which suddenly appeared from nowhere, 
 When he was sitting on a stump resting, about fifty of them 
 collected on the branches all round him ; and then, when 
 he kept quite still, they got bolder and bolder, till first one 
 sat on his rifle, then another on his shoulder, then others, 
 all jumping about and using terrible language at this strange 
 giant who had invaded their country. At last he had to move, 
 the spell was broken, and the wilderness was birdless again 
 for days. But there was no sign of a takin, except once 
 when the hunters were alone, they said they saw one, but 
 their guns were we' and would not go off. All the time it 
 poured in torrents day and night, except high up, where it 
 snowed. 
 
 After ten days of this, provisions got low, and as Meares 
 had to cut across unknown mountains to meet us others, 
 he gave orders to pack up the camp, and went out for a last 
 look at the salt springs. That reached, he found fresh' tracks 
 of a cow and half-grown calf, and at once went in chase, and 
 after many hours climbing got a sight of them, and put a 
 bullet into the cow. She was hard hit, but managed to get 
 down the hill some distance, and he only just managed to give 
 her the coup-de-grace on the edge of the cliff loo feet high. 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 The hunters went off after the young one, and soon brought 
 it down on their shoulders. By the time they had photo- 
 graphed and skinned the takin it was dark, so they felled 
 some huge fir trees, and made an enormous bonfire around 
 which they sat all night, roasting and eating the meat. The 
 young takin meat is like the very best veal, and by morning 
 there was verv little of the smaller carcass left but the bones. 
 
 TAKIN SHOr BY MK. MEARES. 
 
 Meares told us later that he will never forget the morning 
 following. The camp was high up among the pine trees 
 and the sun rose in a clear blue sky, painting the circle of 
 snow peaks around them the most brilliant colours. Every- 
 thing was perfect, and he felt at peace with the world. He 
 had been rewarded for liis trouble by being tlie fust person 
 to shoot an animal which had hardly been seen alive by a 
 European before, and last, but not least, he had had a real 
 
Haunts of the Budorcas. 
 
 good feed. He returned to the cave, and the hunters carried 
 down the skins and heads and bones of both animals and all 
 the meat that was left. How they managed to do it Mr. 
 Meares had no idea, as there were no paths whatever, and 
 each man's load must have weighed over loo lbs. 
 
 Next morning they started off with their bedding and the 
 skins and bones to cross the mountain range to join us. 
 
 It was a pouring wet day, and they trudged up the valley, 
 most of the time wading almost waist deep in the stream 
 itself, for there was no road along the bank. 
 
 Meares was at the head of the party when suddenly he 
 caught sight of a hump-backed, grey-coated, black-horned, 
 short-legged object crossing an open space on the hillside 
 about 300 yards away. It was a bull takin. He at once 
 sent a bullet after it, and though it appeared to be hit, it went 
 off at a good pace. On arriving at the spot he found a good 
 deal of blood, showing it had been badly hurt. They followed 
 its trail some distance, but the rain was coming down in such 
 torrents that it soon washed away all trace of the animal, 
 and finally they had to give up the chase. 
 
 They toiled up the mountain side till darkness overtook 
 them, and pitched their camp under a pine tree, where they 
 spent the night. At daybreak they started off again, leaving 
 the stream and striking straight over the mountain. After a 
 hard climb for several hours they reached the tree-line and 
 entered the open land beyond, where a bitter cold gale was 
 blowing, which froze their clothing and cut right through 
 them. He saw some of the large yellow mountain poppies, which 
 were already in bloom, but, the day he passed, every hair on 
 every petal was encased in a coating of ice, which shows how 
 hardy these wild poppies are. When they topped the pass, 
 and had reached the northern slopes, they escaped the bitter 
 wind, but found in front of them a field of deep snow, but no 
 path or track was visible. 
 
 139 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppe; 
 
 The snow was more than knee-deep, the coohes were heavily 
 laden and almost frozen, so Meares had to go ahead and 
 break a road. His rope sandals were worn out, and he had 
 to finish the journey almost barefooted. After much difficulty 
 they reached the timber-line, and were able to make a fire 
 and warm themselves ; here they found an old timber slide, 
 down which they quickly slid, and soon found themselves 
 in the warm, sunny valley in which Tsakalao is situated. On 
 arrival he found that Brooke and myself had left the day 
 before, but having no money with him to pay the men, he 
 sent a coolie after us to call Brooke back. On the latter's 
 return he found a fine takin skin, which dehghted him much, 
 for since he had not been able to shoot it himself, he rejoiced 
 that his companion in travel had been the first Enghshman 
 to shoot this strange and coveted animal, the inhabitant of 
 these almost inaccessible mountains. 
 
 This little-known animal stands as high as a small bullock, 
 but is much more heavily built. Its legs are especially short 
 and thick, and its feet are shaped like those of a goat, only 
 much larger. I have seen some tracks as much as six inches 
 in diameter. They have Roman noses, black curved horns, 
 and short cut-oft' ears ; the hair of the cow is creamy white, 
 but most of the bulls have a reddish-grey coat, a short tail 
 Hke a goat, and to some extent resemble the musk ox. In 
 the springtime the cows travel about with their young, who 
 can follow their mothers anywhere at three days old, and are 
 weaned at one month old. In the early spring they seem to 
 feed almost entirely on a plant which looks very much like 
 rhubarb or burdock and grows along the bottoms of valleys. 
 In the month of June they all collect about the salt licks, 
 toward which they make broad, regular, beaten roads, and a 
 little later collect into large herds, and graze in the grass 
 lands above the tree-level. 
 
 The natives arc very much afraid of these animals when 
 140 
 
HUNTING THE TAKIN; A HIT OK THE KOAD. 
 
Haunts of the Hudorc; 
 
 they have congregated in herds, and say that if one of the 
 group is wounded, the whole company will charge right over 
 the hunter. Each herd has an old bull as leader, and they 
 follow him everywhere ; an old hunter told me that on one 
 occasion he met a small herd on a narrow path and shot the 
 leader, who fell over the cliff, the others immediately threw 
 themselves over after him, though there were some tens of 
 feet of a sheer drop. Judging from the skins I have seen, 
 some of the bulls must grow to a tremendous size. 
 
 143 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Forward to Somo. 
 
 When Messrs. Brooke and Meares had finished drying and 
 packing the budorcas' skins they crossed the river over the 
 big cantilever bridge to visit Colonel Kao. While they were 
 talking and drinking tea with him they heard a crash and 
 a roar, and on going out to see what it was they discovered 
 that the bridge over which they had just passed had col- 
 lapsed. It had been standing for forty years, and, as the Colonel 
 apologetically remarked, " It never did that before." This 
 entailed their marching five miles dowai the river to the 
 nearest bridge before they could recross. 
 
 On June 4 Brooke and Meares set off to overtake me, and 
 by fast travelhng caught me up in two days, as I had been 
 doing much visiting by the way. The road they took is 
 most picturesque, and keeps close to the banks of the Siho 
 (west river), crossing from time to time from one side to the 
 other to avoid the great cliffs that rise sheer up from the 
 river side in many places. We overtook a pack of mules 
 laden with tea for Matang. This tea w^as the worst rubbish 
 I had ever seen going under that name, it looked more like 
 dried birch leaves and half rotten twigs than tea, and smelt 
 very musty ; but the tribespeople seemed to prefer it to a 
 better quality. We passed several Mantze villages during 
 the first twenty miles' march, and there were a number more up 
 the ravines to the north and south which we could not see 
 from the main road. Leaving the cultivated lands behind, 
 the road ran through a deep gorge close to the side of the 
 
 144 
 
Inirward in Soino. 
 
 river, and the mountains seem to rise almost straight up for 
 6,000 feet, so that the sun can only cast its rays in the narrow- 
 valley for about two hours each day. This is, indeed, a lonely 
 place, and the roar of the river and the song of the birds are 
 all that breaks the stillness. Passing through this gorge 
 we came out to a small clearing, in which stood a solitary 
 house, called Sintientzc (new inn), but I hav(; no doubt it 
 had stood there for at least a hundred years, as the smoke from 
 the fireplace in the middle of the main living-room had long 
 since turned the rafters and ceiling the colour of ebony. 
 Passing on through a widening valley, in which stood isolated 
 farmhouses, built of stone, we soon passed the boundary 
 line between Tsakalao territory and the State of Somo. We 
 were at last on ground completely governed by an inde- 
 pendent hereditary Tussu or Prince, with many chiefs under 
 him, who direct the local affairs throughout his kingdom. 
 From the boundary line of Somo to Kouerhkou, where we 
 hoped to spend the night, w^e passed through wheat and 
 barley fields. The people were very friendly and came out 
 as we passed through their little settlements. We were able 
 to have a kindly word with them. It was 7.30 when we 
 reached the little wayside inn, located within half a-mile 
 from the Mantze fort of Kouerhkou, where the chief of this 
 district has his palatial home, built on the spur of the moun- 
 tain. The town looks quite impregnable, but we decided 
 to take it by a strategy, being determined not to spend the 
 night in the miserable little hovel by the w^ayside. It may 
 be necessary to explain to the reader that it is most dilficult 
 for a stranger to find hospitality in any of these forts, and 
 for the accommodation of the Chinese coolies and travellers 
 little wayside inns have been erected all along the main road 
 so far as the medicine digging enterprise is carried on ; but 
 these huts arc so filthy that it is next to impossible for a 
 foreigner to live in them, even for a night, though on many 
 (11243) '45 '- 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 occasions when I have not had a tent with me I have been 
 compelled to lodge therein. On this occasion, however, I 
 made up my mind I would try for something better in the 
 fort, and sent my interpreter up to the head man of the Chaitze, 
 
 TUli INTERPRETER K \i 
 
 while I remained at the Chinese hut by the roadside. My 
 interpreter was a native of Damba State, and was also a 
 relative of my friend Colonel Kao, so that he would have no 
 difficulty in procuring lodgings for himself. The plan was 
 
 146 
 
Forward to Somo. 
 
 that he should first secure lodgings and then inform his 
 host that a friend of Colonel Kao's was stopping at the inn 
 and would also like accommodation, but not to intimate 
 to him that this friend was a foreigner. I could trust my 
 interpreter to play the game, for he had been with me the 
 two previous journeys, and had proved himself adroit. When 
 he had secured the room he was to shout down and I would 
 come up, so that I really entered the house before the old 
 chief knew I was a foreigner. As arranged so things befell. 
 At first the chief was somewhat sulky ; but when he found 
 that I was the person who passed through last year he be- 
 came more friendly, and in less than half-an-hour we were 
 on the best of terms. He gave me a very nice little room 
 on the roof, where I spread out my bed and made myself 
 comfortable, and after supper I came down to the family 
 apartment, a large room in the centre of which a huge fire 
 was burning, while on large iron tripods stood three great 
 pots used for cooking purposes. We all sat round the fire 
 tailor-fashion, for they never use chairs or benches in tliis 
 part of the country, and there we chatted till midnight. The 
 old lady was very anxious about her daughter, who had run 
 away some weeks before because she had been punished for 
 disobedience. The mother was quite anxious that I should 
 divine, and tell her if her daughter would ever return ! She 
 was sure I could, and when I explained that no one could 
 really tell the future, and that it was only a way the Lamas 
 had of making money, she half agreed, but still thought there 
 was something in it. The tribespeople are also strong in 
 palmistry, and as I had read a little on the subject I greatly 
 pleased the old lady by looking at her hand, and telling her 
 she was to live to a good old age — as she was now between 
 sixty-five and seventy, and there was little danger of my not 
 telling the truth. We were good friends now, and I was urged not 
 to go on the morrow, but spend the day with them. As I was 
 (1 1243) "47 '- - 
 
Sport and Tnuel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 anxious to visit the valley that runs north from here I gladly 
 accepted. Before retiring tsamba and tea were provided. 
 This is the usual Tibetan food, made of parched barley meal 
 and buttered tea. As explained before, the meal is mixed 
 with the tea into a thick paste, then kneaded dry, until you 
 can hold it in your hand much as you would an uncooked 
 
 COLONEL GOU AND HLS KAMI 
 
 cake ; but as the meal has been previously parched it tastes 
 quite good when one is hungry, and in effect buttered tea 
 is much hke soup. Strange as this food may seem to the 
 stranger it is very nourishing, and the people seem to thrive 
 on it. After thus refreshing ourselves I retired to my apart- 
 ment on the roof, and, as I went, the family stretching tliem- 
 
 14S 
 
Forward t(3 Somo. 
 
 selves out with their feet toward the fire, which still burned 
 in the centre of the room, wrapped themselves in their woollen 
 or sheep-skin gowns and seemed not to mind the hard boards 
 of the flooring, which is the best bed they know of. 
 
 Next morning, after an early breakfast, I started up the 
 valley to visit another chief. For some hours we walked 
 up the path which lay along the bed of the stream, on which 
 were built several flour mills, also a number of large prayer 
 cylinders turned by water-power. These cylinders are filled 
 with rolls of parchment, on which are carefully written the 
 prescribed formulas, such as " Om ! ma-ni pad-me Hung ! " 
 —i.e., " Hail ! The Jewel (Grand Lama) in the lotus-flower ! " 
 which is the standard prayer of Lamaism. Of course there 
 are many other formulas of a similar character used to fill 
 in the miles of parchment neatly rolled on these cylinders, 
 which are kept constantly turning by the sparkhng streams 
 Nature has so bountifully provided in this wild and fascinating 
 country. The banks of the stream were covered with thick 
 brushwood and flowering plants of many kinds ; the perfume 
 of the lilac and other sweet-smelling flowers filled the air ; the 
 humming of the bees, the song of the birds, could not but 
 arrest and charm; but there was less of the song of the 
 busy tribesmen, and I was disappointed to find so few people 
 in what I had assumed to be a thickly populated valley. 
 
 On arriving at the village I found that most of the houses 
 had been burned down the previous year, and nothing but 
 the charred walls of most of the buildings now remained. 
 The only sign of life was a few women busily weaving their 
 coarse hempen cloth, and some girls beating out the flax. 
 Most of the inhabitants, both male and female, were away 
 on the mountains with the cattle, or on the heights near the 
 snow-line, gathering herbs, an occupation general among the 
 inhabitants of this region during tlic months of June and 
 July, while their crops are maturing in the fields. Return 
 
 149 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 in August and the hills and valleys will resound with the men}- 
 song of the young men and maidens, as they ply their sickles 
 to the beat of their weird chanting. 
 
 The people were very timid, as the}' had never before seen 
 a foreigner. After a httle inquiry I found the chief, with 
 whom I chatted for a few hours. He did not invite me into 
 his home, but was quite friendly, and when he learned I was 
 stopping with his neighbour chief at Kouerhkou he told me 
 of a road which led from here over the mountains to the 
 Black River valley, occupied by the famous Hei Shui (black 
 water) tribe, who hold the valleys of the Black River. That 
 is a country never yet visited by any European, but I hope 
 some day to tramp these hitherto forbidden reaches, as I have 
 an invitation from the chief Daerhwangchen to do so. 
 
 After partaking of some refreshments with the chief I 
 retraced my steps down the valley, and the only people we 
 met during the march were some woodcutters returning 
 with huge bundles of faggots on their backs, and two Chinese 
 wine merchants making their way toward the villages we had 
 just left. These people are passionately fond of wine, and 
 while they make a mild drink locally from barley, they are very 
 fond of the Chinese fire-water, which is about sixty-five per 
 cent, proof, and will burn readily if you simply set a match to it. 
 Water is sometimes added both by the Chinese merchant 
 and b}' the people themselves after they purchase it ; but 
 the liquor is also frequently imbibed in its pure state through 
 the little terra-cotta syphon quite hke a small jug, with a teat 
 on the handle for the lips. The syphon is usually sucked 
 from after heating it, for while they do not mind eating cold 
 food they like their wine hot. When a tribesman is in- 
 toxicated, the best plan is either to give him a wide berth 
 or let him have his own way, and say " yes, yes," to all his 
 suggestions. To oppose would only provoke him to a free use 
 of the small sword or dirk which he always carries in his 
 
 150 
 
Forward to Somo. 
 
 belt ; and though perfectly friendly when sober, the man 
 may suddenly turn one's bitterest enemy when intoxicated. 
 Few of them eat opium, though this curse has found its way 
 into a few homes, and with consequences even more marked 
 on the tribesman than upon the Chinese. Immediately he 
 adopts its use the former surrenders himself completely to 
 the habit, and in a very short time becomes a complete wreck. 
 Two causes suggest themselves : firstly, the opium sold to 
 the tribesmen is largely made from opium ash and refuse 
 from the Chinese opium dens, and is adulterated for the 
 tribal trade ; in the second place, these people have httle to 
 occupy their minds, and when once they become addicted 
 to the habit, have little to oppose to its influence. 
 
 When I started on our forward march next morning the 
 chief provided me with an escort, composed of one old woman 
 and two girls. It is customary in this part of the country 
 for the females to escort visitors from one chief to the other. 
 The only reason I can give is that the men are usually away 
 on a hunting tour, and the women are left to look after the 
 homes and crop. The women and girls of this part of the 
 country are very different from the Chinese, and are more 
 like the American, French or Scandinavian girl in their free- 
 dom of conversation. Our escort marched along with the 
 caravan, freely chatting to the interpreter and myself, as 
 though they were the happiest people in the world. On 
 one occasion I made a remark about their aversion to the 
 free use of water, saying they would be really good-looking 
 if they would only keep themselves clean, and by way of 
 contrast pointed to my neck, saying, "Yours might be as 
 white as mine if you would only use soap and water." Her 
 neck as I spoke was black as an African's. But for all that 
 she was a sharp witted, rather good-featured lass, of about 
 eighteen, and the quick reply I got was, " Yes, your skin may 
 be white, but your heart is blacker than my neck." I was not 
 
 151 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 aware that I had said or done anything to merit the remark, 
 but I had to take it in good grace ; and by the time our 
 journey was ended I hope she reaUsed that my heart was 
 whiter than she suspected, for they all returned to their 
 homes with a small string of cash and a thank you for their 
 help in carrying our belongings over the five miles of rough 
 but beautiful country. To receive pay and a kind word w^as 
 
 IBETAN PLAYERS IN COMEDY. 
 
 rather a surprise to them, for if they had been escorting a 
 Chinese Official they would probably have returned with 
 curses for thanks and abusive language for pay, these being 
 the attentions of his followers, even where the Official himself 
 was polite. Kindness is something which surprises these 
 people, so little of it do they receive from strangers ; yet 
 thcv are very kind and affectionate among themselves, and 
 
l^'orward to Somo. 
 
 I have never yet seen or heard any quarrelhng in their 
 ranks. 
 
 We fohowed tlie west bank of the river for twenty h (about 
 live miles), when we again crossed another cantilever bridge, 
 and entered a fertile valley whicli supported four villages, 
 with a population of 300 families. Lodgings were found on 
 the roof of one of the houses in the village of Cheoti, and we 
 spent tlie night in fairly comfortable apartments. Here 
 
 [BETAN PLAYERS IN TK AGE 
 
 as far as Chowser, the capital of Chosschia State. 
 
 About an hour and a-half after our arrival a Chinese Wei- 
 yuen arrived from the west, sent out by the Viceroy of 
 Sechwan in the interest of education, his business being 
 to establish schools for the study of Chinese throughout these 
 semi-independent States. His style and bearing, however, 
 was not such as would give him much prestige, or command 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 the respect and sympathy of this independent people. He 
 rode on to the street with an air of superiority that was quite 
 resented by the people, and seeing us on the roof of one of 
 the houses he dismounted and walked in, feeling his way 
 through the smoke, which was making use of the staircase 
 for an outlet. When he emerged from its columns and stood 
 on the roof beside us tears were in his eyes, but not the tear 
 of sorrow or sympathy. He cursed the smoke, the houses 
 and the people that lived in them. After he had finished 
 and recovered his breath he demanded of me my business, 
 how it was I had secured rooms in this house, and w^here I 
 was going, and so forth. 
 
 He next informed me of the hostihty of this barbarous 
 race, saying it was not safe for a foreigner to be in their 
 country, and tried to impress me with the importance of 
 returning with him to Chinese territory. In reply, I asked 
 him, "Whose jurisdiction this country was under; if, on 
 their maps, it was not included in the province of Sechwan ? 
 for which I held a passport." When he found he could do 
 nothing with me by arguments of this kind, he changed his 
 tactics, and informed me that the road ahead was impass- 
 able, the rivers being swollen to such an extent that it was 
 impossible to cross them, and that the mountain passes were 
 deep in snow, and we would surely be frozen to death if we 
 attempted to cross them. I Hstened to his story until he had 
 poured it all out, then asked the question, "Where have 
 you come from ? " He told me how he had left Chentu 
 and had travelled up the Siaochin YaWey and over the pass 
 to Drukagi, then up through Somo, over the Chiku Pass, 
 and down to this point, all in the interest of education ; but 
 said he had not been able to establish a single school. I 
 sympathised with him in the difficulties he had encountered 
 during his arduous journey, and then asked, " How did you 
 succeed in overcoming them ? " \\'hen he told me a long 
 
 154 
 
Forward to Somo, 
 
 story of how it was done I thanked him for his information, 
 saying we would do hkewise. He suddenly realised that he 
 had given his case away, but I informed him there was no 
 need of feeling badly, as I had been over the entire route 
 that he had just travelled more than once, and knew it quite 
 well. When he found he could make nothing out of me, 
 and seeing the rooms were all occupied on the roof of this 
 house — the best in the village — he bowed in farewell and 
 went through the column of smoke down the crude staircase, 
 and after seeking accommodation in the other houses of the 
 village, where he was refused admittance, mounted his horse 
 and with his companions rode off in search of accommodation 
 in the next village, where he was told he would find it. I 
 hope he was successful, but as the village was five miles away, 
 and a rough road separated him from that place, I should 
 not be surprised if he found himself compelled to spend the 
 night under the open canopy of heaven or under some green 
 tree. By 6 a.m. we were on the march, our road led us on 
 through the valley, in which were cultivated fields to the 
 right and to the left. The path kept near the river's brink, 
 which here flows in a south-eastern direction, the early morn- 
 ing air was wonderfully refreshing, and almost in every direc- 
 tion the mountain tops glittered in the sunlight, many of 
 them clad in a mantle of snow, while their lower slopes were 
 covered with forests. Near the river's brink soft, maple, 
 birch and ash trees abounded, while here and there a prickly 
 oak warned us that we are approaching an altitude of 9,000 
 feet. Cultivated fields were seen dotting the mountain side, 
 surrounded by rank foliage, and stone houses adorned some 
 of the hillsides facing south. We reached Jiapi at noon. 
 This is a village of about fifteen families ; on a spur not far away 
 stands a massive stone building, belonging to the prince, 
 which he occupies during his periodical visits through the 
 country. Away to the north the wide valley leads up to 
 
 155 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 extensive pasture lands, on which we could make out through 
 our glasses large herds of cattle grazing, and far above them 
 the peaks capped with snow. 
 
 A little further on it was necessary to cross the stream, 
 but here the bed of the river was broad and there was no 
 bridge. The rain which fell during the previous night, to- 
 gether with the melting snow, had much increased the volume 
 of the stream, and we had a great deal of difficulty in find- 
 ing a suitable ford. On several occasions while endeavouring 
 to cross my pony was almost carried off his feet b}' the swift 
 current. Finally, we found a place where the water was 
 not over three feet deep, and by stretching a guide-rope across 
 for the pack coohes to hold to and steady themselves as they 
 forded, we succeeded in getting the whole party safely over 
 on the other side. About 4 o'clock we arrived at Miala, a 
 group of stone houses built on the side of a hill, which boasts 
 itself of supporting two chiefs and a population of 1.500 
 families in the surrounding district. It was difficult for us 
 to discover where all these homes were located, as the village 
 itself had not more than thirty houses, but scattered about on 
 the mountain side are many isolated dwellings, which cannot 
 be seen from the main road. There is also a large monastery 
 on the wooded mountain to the south, which boasts itself 
 of having about 1,500 lamas, or a proportion of one lama to each 
 household — a rule which they try to live up to wherever Lamaism 
 prevails. 
 
 On arriving at the town we were very much surprised to 
 find all the doors shut in our faces. The interpreter and 
 the Fusong were not able to obtain access, even to the home 
 of the chief, the doors being locked and barred, with no sign 
 of any life within. I had told the Fusong to go ahead and 
 secure a place before our arrival ; but as he had stopped 
 for two days in this same town the previous year, and had 
 left them so far as I knew friendly, I had not insisted on his 
 
 156 
 
b'orvvard to Somo. 
 
 doing so, while the interpreter, thinking there would be no 
 difficulty whatever, had dallied behind with the coolies, and 
 only arrived when we did. It began to look rather serious, 
 and there seemed to be no way of getting in touch with the 
 people, so I accompanied the interpreter and escort to the 
 home of the second chief, who lived some Httle distance away. 
 There the outer door was also locked ; and though we rapped 
 loud enough to be heard for some distance, the interpreter 
 repeating the well-known call, "A friend has arrived, open 
 unto him the door," there was no response. The wall was 
 not very high, so Kao, who was an expert climber, scrambled 
 up the side hke a rabbit, and standing on the top called aloud 
 to the inmates. At last a servant came out, and announced 
 that there was no one at home, which we knew very well 
 was a lie. The servant disappearing and leaving us to make 
 the best of the situation ; my interpreter quickly descended 
 the wall on the inside and unbarred the gate, which was made 
 secure by a great wooden cross pole, but not locked. x\nd 
 both he and I passed through the courtyard and through the 
 stable that occupied the first storey of the castle, and ascend- 
 ing a broad staircase found ourselves on the flat roof, which 
 formed the courtyard of the second storey. 
 
 When the inmates found the castle had been taken by 
 storm, and that we were actually in possession, heads ap- 
 peared over the balcony above us, and through windows 
 on the second storey, declaring that they had no accommo- 
 dation for travellers. My interpreter informed the old lama, 
 who seemed to be the chief spokesman, that we were quiet 
 and peaceable people, and that he had been sent by Colonel 
 Kao, his master and lord, to escort and protect us from all 
 harm, and that all we wanted was accommodation for the 
 night, for which we were prepared to pay. Showing his 
 military coat, as evidence of his authority, hv took it off and 
 hung it on the door ; and according to the tribal custom, to 
 
 157 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 refuse to open the door to that coat, or to insult it in anyway, 
 meant open revolt against the Colonel, whom they all respect 
 throughout these States. There was nothing for it now, so 
 they opened the door, and w'e were shown to a small room 
 at the north side of the flat roof upon which we stood. The 
 Fusong was sent down for the rest of the party and our 
 things, and in a very short time we were comfortably settled 
 in our little room. In less than half -an -hour the whole town 
 had congregated on our roof. There were lamas in their 
 scarlet robes, the lavman in his brown yak-hair homespun 
 gown, women clad in their hempen accordion-pleated skirts 
 and short tight jackets. They were all curious to see the 
 strange people who had come in their midst so unexpectedly. 
 We were not long in making friends and gaining their con- 
 fidence. Each of the lamas, and such laymen as could read, 
 were supphed with books. It was interesting to see them 
 collect in groups examining the clear type and passing com- 
 pHmentary remarks on the quality of the paper and the wTit- 
 ing. • We trust they understood the message these books 
 brought to them. They soon began to gather around me, 
 reporting their aches and pains — some toothache and rheu- 
 matism, others with ulcers and skin diseases of every kind. 
 I w\as kept busy till dark extracting teeth, washing and 
 dressing sores. Their fear of the foreigner had vanished, 
 and old men and women and young maidens alike pressed 
 for their turn of attention. One old lady sat down on the 
 floor and let me extract two roots and one badly decayed 
 tooth, all of which were giving her a great deal of trouble. 
 She did not even groan ; and when I had finished, though 
 the blood was flowing freely, directed my attention to two 
 other roots on the other side, which she was anxious that I 
 should remove. But fearing that she might lose too much 
 blood I advised her to wait until the morning to finish the 
 operation. When the party broke up it was well on 
 
 158 
 
Forward to Somo. 
 
 to 10 o'clock, but each with a pohte bow said " good-night " 
 before descending the staircase. We found the report of the 
 Chief's absence was quite true, and some weeks hiter we met 
 him at Drukagi, where he was trying to sohcit help from 
 that State against the people of Ngaba, with whom he and 
 his expected to engage in war at any minute. The Chief's 
 wife and family were extremely friendly, and sent letters by 
 us to her husband. These I personally handed over to him, 
 and he seemed greatly pleased with their contents, and was 
 a good friend to us during our stay at Drukagi. 
 
 Here we were supposed to get ula ; but, on account of 
 our Fusong wanting to make too big a squeeze, the people 
 would not bring their animals in until we promised to pay 
 for them. 
 
 We now found out the reason why the doors were closed 
 in our faces on arrival. I was told in confidence that my 
 Fusong, on my previous journey had demanded fourteen horses 
 and ten carriers to convey me and my belongings to the next 
 chief, and that when the animals were brought in he had 
 refused to take them, saying he must have the money in- 
 stead. The price of a horse for a stage in the country where 
 ula is used is three chien of silver per animal, and one chien 
 for each carrier. This meant that the Fusong had extracted 
 about fifteen shillings from the people, besides getting a free 
 ride over the pass. Of course I knew nothing of it until after 
 we had passed the place several days, and then only discovered 
 it through a quarrel between the interpreter and the Fusong. 
 On this occasion, however, I made it very clear, both to my 
 escort and the people, that wlien I asked for animals I ex- 
 pected to pay for them, and that on no condition would I 
 allow the Fusong to extract money from them on my account. 
 When this was understood the people felt quite differently 
 towards us, though I cannot say the Fusong was altogether 
 pleased, nor did he exert himself on our behalf as on former 
 
 159 
 
Sport and Travel on the Til^etan Steppes. 
 
 journeys. I believe that much of the trouble experienced 
 by so many travellers in China and Tibet is due to these blood- 
 suckers, who, while they are serving the foreigner and ex- 
 tracting all they can from him, do not fail to do likewise 
 to their own people, placing the blame on their innocent 
 employer. 
 
 On the morning of June 7 we left the village of Miala behind 
 and climbed up 2,000 feet, only to descend again to the river 
 bed on the other side of the spur. We followed the stream, 
 which for five miles flowed through a dense forest, and on 
 emerging from this we entered a cultivated plain, on which 
 were five small villages or groups of houses, all surrounded 
 by green fields. The chinku (a kind of huskless barley), 
 about the only crop grown at this altitude (for we were now 
 quite 10,000 feet above the sea), had not yet grown to more 
 than two inches above the ground and would not be harvested 
 till September. For the last five miles of this stage it rained 
 hard and we all got wet to the skin. On reaching Chintouchai, 
 the last village before ascending the pass, we were able to 
 secure rooms in the same house that I had stopped in the 
 year before, and the whole party were soon sitting roimd a 
 great fire in the large kitchen, steaming ourselves dry, for 
 even our bedding had got wet, so heavy was the rain. All 
 through the night it continued to pour, but towards morning 
 it turned to snow, and when we awoke it was falling so thickly 
 that we could not see any distance. The hills were covered 
 a foot deep by 8 o'clock, and there was quite six inches in the 
 valley. What were green fields the evening before were 
 white fields now. The men said it was impossible to cross 
 the pass, so we turned in again as there was nothing to be 
 done, and one's pukai (a Chinese quilt), which serves the 
 purpose of both mattress and bedding, was by far the most 
 comfortable place in such weather. 
 
 I was not to enjoy this very long, however, for at 9.30 the 
 160 
 
Forward to Somo. 
 
 interpreter came into my room in great excitement, and 
 reported that my horse had broken loose and got out of the 
 stable, and they could find no trace of him. I sent the inter- 
 preter and head coolie in search of him, and neither of them 
 having returned by the time I had had breakfast I too joined in 
 
 IINKSE MAN I >A KIN. 
 
 the hunt. I could track the horse by his shoes, and soon 
 found that he had taken the road toward home. After I had 
 followed him thirty li (ten miles) through the mud and slush 
 (for the snow had now pretty well melted) I met some coolies 
 who reported thej- had seen a horse near IMiala, some ten li 
 further on, and that he was still making toward Tsakalao 
 
 (II243) i6i M 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 as hard as he could go. I had run most of the way, but 1 
 now increased my pace down the mountain side, hoping he 
 might turn into the place where he had been stabled at Miala ; 
 but on arrival there I learned that he had galloped straight 
 through the village, and that my coolie had gone after him. 
 Some five h further on we could see the ho rse,hke a little speck, 
 coming towards us, nibbling a bit of grass and then trotting 
 forward a little. Later we could distinguish the coolie hob- 
 bling along behind him, driving him towards us. The road 
 ran through the plain below Miala, and I knew there was 
 no use trying to catch him there, so went back and waited 
 for him in a stone lane near the vihage, and, just as he came 
 round the corner, caught him. At the village I got some food 
 and borrowed a saddle. In trying to catch the pony the 
 coohe had been knocked down, and was so badly hurt that 
 I had to put him on the horse's back and lead them both 
 toward Chintouchai. At the top of the hill we met one of 
 our muleteers coming in search of us, and on his mule I put 
 the coolie, and mounting my horse galloped him all the way 
 back, and got in nearly three hours ahead of the others. I 
 was determined to pay the pony back for the tramp he had 
 led me, but I am not so sure that I did not get the worst of 
 it. The saddle I borrowed was an old hard one, which did 
 not seem to fit me very well, and my horse seemed as fresh 
 at the end of the run as when we set out. It was 4 p.m. 
 when I returned, and we had perforce to spend the night 
 in camp. 
 
 Next morning by 5.30 we were on tlie march and soon 
 entered a thick forest, through which the road ran for fifteen li. 
 Then we came out on the grass land at the foot of the pass, 
 and soon overtook a caravan of some sixty mules, laden with 
 tea, which had camped for the night, and was just loading 
 up to start on the steep and arduous climb over the pass 
 called Chiku Shan (" Eat-bitterness Mountain " the pass is 
 
 162 
 
Forward to SoiiK^. 
 
 called) ; and when the snow hes deep on its slopes, and espe- 
 cially in the "saddle," through which one goes on reaching the 
 top, it is quite worthy of its reputation, and has claimed 
 many victims during the winter seasons. There are many 
 wild tales told of how the Black River people raid the caravans 
 while crossing this pass, and muleteers always club together 
 in large bands, and will scarcely ever venture over when there 
 are less than twenty in a party. Some small caravans wait for 
 days just above Chintouchai until a large caravan arrives 
 and there joins them. While crossing this pass 12,000 feet 
 above sea-level the grade is quite gradual, and the climb is 
 only a little over 2,000 feet from the base of the mountain 
 to the top ; but by the time the traveller has reached it lie 
 will imagine it to be several times that altitude. At the 
 top there were still deep snow drifts, but tliese were melting 
 away, and we found the purple and yellow poppies and many 
 other flowers in bloom almost at the edge of the snow drifts. 
 A drop of 2,500 feet in about four miles took us to Matang, 
 a little tumbled-down trading station w^here the tea is de- 
 posited, and where the Tibetans and tribesmen from the 
 upper Kermer and part of the Ngaba bring in their wool, 
 hides and animals, in exchange for Chinese commodities. 
 The inhabitants of Matang are nearly all Mohammedans. 
 This place is too high to produce even vegetables, and the 
 only occupation of the people is to trade with the natives 
 in the surrounding country. 
 
 Ta-erh Wang Chen, the Chief of the Black River district, 
 had arrived some hours before us, and was in his Kunghuan, 
 or private residence, in which he puts up when passing this 
 way. His lordship called on us soon after our arrival. The 
 main object of his call, however, was to see if we had a gun 
 for sale ! He was on his way to see the Somo Tussu and 
 discuss the war that was imminent. 
 
 At 8.30 he sent his men up and invited us to come and 
 (1 1243) 163 M :: 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 see him. We had called before but they were in council, 
 and had asked us to wait till later. We were ushered into a 
 room, at the head of which sat Ta-erh Wang Chen and his 
 brother on rich Turkish cushions. In front of them was a 
 large handsome brazier, on which were pots of steaming 
 tea made from the coarse Kuanhsien leaves, with plenty of 
 milk, and a goodly supply of salt added thereto. 
 
 The walls were covered with fuse guns, swords, daggers, 
 spears and armour ; while along both sides of the large room 
 sat, or rather squatted, some fifty of his retainers and followers. 
 All rose to their knees and bowed their heads as we entered. 
 I was given a seat one place below the Chief at his left hand, 
 which is the seat of honour. Hot wine was offered first, and 
 when I refused it hot tea from the steaming pot before us 
 was poured out, and we sipped and chatted till after lo o'clock. 
 
 Ta-erh Wang Chen has a peculiar voice, more like the quack 
 of a drake than anything I can think of. He understands 
 and can speak some Chinese, but most of the conversation 
 was carried on through an interpreter. He took a fancy to 
 my little pony and I let him have it, though it was an old 
 friend, on condition that when I wanted to go through his 
 territory he would give me a pass and escort, which he 
 promised to do. 
 
 164 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 The Jourxey to Chosschia. 
 
 On leaving Matang we descended an easy grade and soon 
 reached the Kermer River, a stream flowing from the north. 
 At Changku, the point where we crossed, it is spanned by a 
 cantilever bridge, and there turns west and continues this 
 general course, until it joins the Kwanyin River at Damba, 
 and from this point, Changku, the united stream is known 
 as the Tachin Ho (Great Gold River). 
 
 We followed the right bank of this stream. All the way 
 to the capital of So mo the river was a foaming torrent, and 
 for the most part of the way we passed through a dense forest, 
 which extended from the river's bank to the lofty peaks, 
 several thousand feet above our heads. Here and there 
 where the valley opened out a little, some lonely farm houses 
 were seen nestling at the foot of the cliffs, or perched on 
 their sides. About 4 p.m. we emerged from this forest and 
 got the first view of the fertile valley of So mo, dotted with 
 its many villages, the houses of which are all built of stone ; 
 most of them three-storey high, and some even running to 
 five storeys. 
 
 While we were resting and admiring the view that had 
 opened out before us, we heard the war cry of the Black 
 River warriors, which rose above the deafening roar of the 
 Kermer. Their cry came nearer and nearer, so we decided 
 to wait and let them pass, as the road was wide where we 
 were. It was not long until the leaders appeared, some of 
 them riding very fine mules and ponies, others at a half run 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 holding to the tails of the animals, which were laden with their 
 camping outfit and instruments of war. The cavalcade was 
 a very extended one, and they came in bunches of threes and 
 fours, and were spread out over about two miles. 
 
 We could not wait any longer for them and started off 
 and marched in their ranks for some distance. They were 
 a jolly lot. Once, when the advanced guard stopped to wait 
 for their caravan, which was at the rear, and had not been 
 able to keep up, we attempted to pass on. Some of them, 
 out of fun, turned their animals across the road and tried to 
 block it, and at first we were not quite sure of their intention, 
 but soon discovered it was only play. No doubt they wanted 
 to see if we were easily frightened. Finally we passed the 
 whole cavalcade, which stopped to wait until their chief 
 overtook them. 
 
 After a five-mile walk through cultivated fields, in which 
 was a good crop of barley and wheat just coming into head, 
 we found ourselves at the little bridge at the foot of the spur 
 on which stood the castle and a group of houses, mostly 
 occupied by the Tussu's retainers. 
 
 Several of the houses are also owned by representative 
 men of districts throughout the realm. 
 
 On my former visit I lodged in one of the houses inside of 
 the palace enclosure, which belonged to the Hei Shui Chief, 
 but on this occasion he would need it himself, for he and 
 his followers would fill every bit of available space, and we 
 wondered where we would get accommodation. 
 
 I went on ahead to secure lodgings, and on the green near 
 the bridge I found most of the inhabitants, both old women 
 and young maidens, old men and boys, together with local 
 headmen or chiefs, all kneeling on the grass, while Tibetan 
 rugs were spread out, on which they were to entertain and 
 welcome the Chief of the famous Black River people. I was 
 riding along with two of Daerh Wang's heralds, and, according 
 
 1 66 
 
The Journey to Chosscliiii. 
 
 to custom, we all dismounted when we drew near and were 
 saluted by the waiting party. 
 
 I inquired where we were to lodge, and a man was told off 
 to guide the way. We were led to a fine large stone house 
 at the back of the palace, and about half-a-mile to the west 
 of it, where we found comfortable quarters. 
 
 After passing up a long stone lane we entered a large court- 
 yard, surrounded by a stone wall, where the animals were 
 put up. 
 
 On going through the heavy doors, over which the skull 
 of a bear was hung to keep away evil spirits, we passed through 
 an opening in the thick wall of the house and, turning to our 
 right, entered a large room forty feet long by thirty feet wide, 
 in the centre of which was the usual fireplace, and a great fire 
 burning under huge pots that stood on iron tripods, each pot 
 holding about fifty gallons of water. This was the general 
 kitchen and living room. We did not stay here, but were 
 led up two dark stairways to the third floor, and shown to a 
 very nice room in the centre of which also was a fireplace 
 and a pot almost as large as those below. Wood was pro- 
 vided, but as there was no chimney, and the only way for the 
 smoke to escape was through the two small windows, which 
 did not afford much light to the room ; we preferred to be 
 without a fire, and to have our food cooked in the kitchen 
 below. 
 
 Although we did not have a fire in our room, we were not 
 without our share of the smoke, for when all the coolies 
 arrived, each group wanted a fire to themselves, and the smoke 
 came in clouds up the stairway ; and, not being able to escape 
 with sufficient rapidity through the windows in the outer 
 wall, much of it found its way into our apartment. This 
 made life so miserable that we had to go down and put out 
 some of the fires, and inform the coolies they must be content 
 to use the one general fire, as they would liave to do in a 
 
 169 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 Chinese inn, or else buy their own wood and go outside to 
 burn it. 
 
 We spent all the next day here. A number of people came 
 about, but we were not able to see the Tussu ; he was some 
 distance away, worshipping in a temple, and imploring the 
 idols to endow him with wisdom before attending the council 
 of war. 
 
 Next morning our ula arrived and by 9 o'clock we were 
 on the march. For the first four miles the valley was cul- 
 tivated, then we again entered thick undergrowth with a 
 few large trees scattered about. Fire had run through some 
 parts of it. There was nothing of particular interest until 
 we reached Mami Chiao. There were a few houses here, in 
 one of which I had put up for the night during my travels 
 in 1907. 
 
 The cantilever bridge that spanned the river was leaning at 
 quite an angle, and we had to be careful lest it should collapse 
 like the one at Tsakalao ; however, we got safely across and 
 the bridge was still standing when we left it. 
 
 A stiff chmb brought us to the top of the spur, and here 
 we had a fine view of the town of Drukagi, as well as of a 
 good part of the State. 
 
 After a long detour down a zigzag path we reached the 
 town. The interpreter and escort had gone on ahead, but 
 when we arrived they had not succeeded in securing accom- 
 modation, so we had to stand in the street for some time. 
 
 Finally a house was put at our disposal, but the people 
 refused to sell us wood. They had not been very friendly when 
 I passed through here before, but they seemed more sullen than 
 ever this time. 
 
 After a little some of the people became more talkative, 
 and we found out that our Chinese friend, in the interest of 
 schools, had left word with the Tussu that if any foreigner 
 ever passed through this way again they were to take him 
 
 170 
 

The Journey to Chosschia. 
 
 prisoner and escort him out. My letter from So Tussu and 
 Colonel Kao had rather put a different aspect on things, and 
 they felt they must at least give us a place to sleep in. The 
 Tussu, who is a Lama, left early next morning for a temple 
 situated some distance up the stream, flowing from the south- 
 west. He told our interpreter that he had no time to get us 
 ula or an escort, and had left no one with power to act. The 
 interpreter went up several times to try to get an escort and 
 had for his pains a blank shot fired out of one of the windows 
 of the palace at him. 
 
 We spent the day here, but were not able to do much more 
 than make friends with a few of the people on the street, and 
 next morning we left. Following the river which here runs 
 a little north of west, we arrived at a large monastery called 
 Maerhkang Cumba, five miles below Drukagi. The people 
 and Lamas were quite friendly and we spent an hour chatting 
 with them, but they would not let us enter the monastery. 
 
 From Maerhkang a road leads up one of the ravines to the 
 grass land of Drukagi and on to Ngaba. From here we 
 continued down the right bank of the stream, passing through 
 a cultivated valley with groups of the usual stone houses 
 on the hillsides, on both sides of the river. At last we sighted 
 Runga on the spur of a hill, and the great castle in which the 
 Princess lives, by far the most prominent edifice in the town. 
 The Princess refuses to marry, lest the reins of government 
 should be taken from her. She is greatly influenced by the 
 Lamas, and spends a great deal of her time in a large monastery 
 on a mountain some five miles from her castle. A report 
 has it that she is not as virtuous as she would lead people 
 to believe, and spends a good deal of her time with a favourite 
 Lama in the temple. The rest of his time is taken up reciting 
 prayers before the castle idols and acting as prime minister 
 in temporal affairs. A Lama will probably succeed the 
 Princess in the near future. The Lamas already have control 
 
 173 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 of several States and are aiming at greater things. It is 
 strange that these shepherds of the flock are not satisfied 
 with the control of the spiritual welfare of the people, but 
 are anxious to grasp the State and all its property and 
 completely control it. 
 
 A very nice place was put at our disposal, and the people 
 soon gathered round. Many of them came for medicine, 
 and brought vegetables, eggs, meat and barley meal as a 
 thankoffering ; those who could read were given books and 
 we were kept busy. Several of the headmen or local chiefs 
 came and spent most of the time with us, partly to see how 
 we treated the people, and hear what we had to say to them. 
 
 Mr. Brooke and Mr. Meares went over to the monastery at the 
 other side of the river, and gave some small mirrors to the people, 
 trying to make friends ; but their effort was not very success- 
 ful, for some of the priests objected to the maidens being able 
 to see their own faces in the small glasses presented, lest they 
 should really know how pretty they looked. So the priests 
 had the mirrors all collected and broken up, saying that by 
 means of these reflectors the foreigners would get possession 
 of their souls. There is a belief current that to look into a 
 looking glass will cause an abortion, which is why so many 
 of them object to being photographed. To avert this influence 
 the priests called all the holy men together, and, in chorus, 
 from the roof of the temple, they clanged their cymbals, 
 blew their trumpets, read their holy books, and poured out 
 all the curses in their ritual on the foreigner's head, for his 
 attempt to harm the people under their care. They were 
 surprised that their curses seemed to have but little influence 
 on the bearing towards us of the common people who liad 
 become used to us and had received our medicine, and 
 certainly we did not seem to mind their cursing in the least. 
 The next day many who had been helped by the medicines 
 they had received the previous day came to thank me, and 
 
 174 
 
SOME POPI'lES NEAR THE SNOW-LINE. 
 
The Journey to Chosschia. 
 
 brought friends along to have their troubles attended to ; 
 even some of the Lamas came for medicine. As we passed 
 the temple on our way to the State of Damba they all gathered 
 on the roof of their temple again and in loud chorus continued 
 their most impressive ceremony of yesterday; but with no 
 better result, for w^e quietly stood by and j^hotographed them, 
 much to their amazement. 
 
 Passing up a broad valley, covered with grass on which 
 were many horses and cattle feeding, we came to a small 
 monastery, called Tawei. Here we turned due west, and 
 started up a steep incline. After climbing for about a mile, 
 the grade became more gradual and we came to farms where 
 they were just sowing their buckwheat. It came on to fain, 
 and the pass that was still far above us was white with new- 
 fallen snow, so we stopped for the afternoon and night in an 
 old farmhouse, used only in the autumn, when the farmers 
 come up to reap the harvest. 
 
 Next morning it w^as line and we made an early start. 
 Before going far we entered a thick undergrowth, which soon 
 gave way to a dense forest of scrub, oak, birch and a few 
 white firs intermingled. All were draped in fairy scarf, some 
 of which must have reached a length of thirty feet. This fairy 
 scarf is a kind of lichen, a cellular crypt ogamous plant, which 
 chngs to the bark of the trees and hangs in long stre;\mers 
 from the hmbs and branches. This lichen is almost like 
 fine hemp or flax fibre, and rope made of it is quite 
 strong. 
 
 For hours w^e travelled along a narrow pathway on the side 
 of the cliff, arched over by branches of shrub oak, which 
 grows from ten to fourteen inches at the trunk, and these were 
 all draped in the same silvery green ribbons. On we marched 
 till we came out on a grass valley where we had dinner. To 
 the west was the snow-capped range and pass, the other 
 three sides covered with forest. The cry of large flocks of 
 (11243) 177 ^' 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes, 
 
 grouse, as they flew up on all sides of us, was the only sound 
 that broke the stillness. 
 
 After lunch we set out for the final climb, and toiled for 
 another three miles, up through deep snow drifts, in which 
 the animals almost floundered, and w^e had much difficulty in 
 reaching the top. It was a beautiful day and well worth while 
 to stand on this pinnacle of Pewa Pass, the dividing line 
 between Runga and Damba State, and gaze upon the pano- 
 rama that opened out before us. From here we could see 
 over a great part of Damba State, which is not a very large 
 one, being only about forty miles square, the most part 
 of which is mountainous and uninhabited. The valleys are 
 quite fertile and thickly populated, and in many secluded 
 spots lonely houses were hid away from general view. The 
 people of Damba are very proud of their reputation, and 
 tradition says they were famous w^arriors and most fearless men. 
 
 Three hours' hard march brought us down the steep 
 mountain side, first, through beds of wild flowers, then through 
 another dense forest, and finally out to cultivated fields on 
 to the village of Drozer, where we put up for the night and 
 changed our guide and ula. It was a beautiful clear night 
 and we got a latitude, after the inhabitants had all retired, 
 for we had to be careful not to arouse their suspicions by 
 doing much star-gazing. 
 
 Word was sent out to the people on the mountains, whose 
 turn it was to escort us, and early next morning they were 
 waiting before we had finished breakfast. It was a new thing 
 not to have to wait for ula, which is the only drawback to 
 the system, so far as the traveller is concerned, for not only 
 does it ensure a safe transit from one tribe to another, but 
 the charge is quite moderate. The Chinese seldom give them 
 anything, but I believe in always paying a proper price for 
 their help. 
 
 We only travelled some five miles further down mto the 
 178 
 
The lonrncv to ('hosscbia. 
 
 valley, where we came to another village, where there is 
 another chief or headman. It was his duty to escort us to 
 Damba twenty miles further on, but he was away ; so we had 
 several hours' delay before we could get animals and men 
 from the mountains to take us on. We tried to hire the 
 men who had come from Drozer to take us into Damba, but 
 they would not do this, saying they had no authority to 
 escort us through the other chief's district. 
 
 Ifr: 
 
 
 L'LA AND A GRASS-LAM) TRIKICSMAN. 
 
 Brooke and Meares went on with some of the coolies and 
 the Chinese escort, while I remained bi'hind to wait for the 
 ula, keeping the interpreter with me. 
 
 It was a long wait, and by 2 o'clock only two animals 
 had arrived. We waited on till 4 o'clock and at last I saw 
 the other yaks coming down the mountain side, and put my 
 bedding on an old brok(Mi-down horse that had been waiting 
 mounted. But the old nag refused to carry me, and I felt it 
 {11243) 179 ^ - 
 
sport and Travel on the IMbetan Steppes. 
 
 was much safer as well as quicker to walk. So with my bedding 
 on the ancient steed and a good stick in my hand on we tramped 
 down to the depths of the valley quite 2,000 feet below our 
 starting point. After crossing an old cantilever bridge we 
 followed the left bank of the stream for some two miles, and 
 then turned up a ravine and up a steep spur, where we toiled 
 for an hour and a-half, my female guide tugging on the halter 
 in front of the nag, while I plied the stick from behind. 
 
 At last, dripping with perspiration, we reached the top Of 
 the pass. The sun had already set, and there were ten miles 
 of rough road yet to travel, so, without waithig to take 
 breath, we pushed on, and in tlie twilight overtook the rest 
 of the party. 
 
 They had waited for the coohes, and counting on the ula 
 to overtake them, had pitched their tents ; but while I talked 
 with them my escort pushed on with my bedding, and was 
 already out of sight. So, as I knew the road, and also people 
 on the street at Damba, I gave chase, and though I did not 
 overtake my guide I found my way to the capital in the 
 dark, and near the entrance to the castle met two men, who 
 took a message to the Princess that I had arrived and would 
 like accommodation. This was Colonel Kao's aunt, who 
 had already heard of our coming through him, so I was given 
 quarters with my old friend of the year before. I soon found 
 mv bedding, which was in another house near by, where my 
 escort had put up. They had a good laugh at me for getting 
 left in the dark. 
 
 A pound of parched barlev meal, some milk and hot tea 
 were now brought in, and I don't remember tsamba ever 
 tasting better. If my readers think they would not appreciate 
 tsamba for supper I would recommend a twenty-mile tramp 
 between 4 and 9.30 p.m. with a climb of 4,000 feet and several 
 descents of 2,000 feet each. If they have not had anything 
 to eat since morning, except a small cake made of coarse 
 
'I'hc [oLirney to Chosschia. 
 
 corntiour, cooked in wood asli, I will guarantee their agreeing 
 with me that tsamba is good food when one is hungry. 
 
 After supper I was taken on the roof and allowed to choose 
 my apartment. I took the best there was, and taking a large 
 round basket about six feet in diameter used for sunning the 
 grain, made my bed in it, under the projecting roof, and 
 rolled myself in my quilt, while my worthy landlord rolled 
 himself in a sheep-skin gown and lay on the roof near by. 
 Needless to say I was soon in the land of know-nothing, and 
 was only aroused by the shouts of the interpreter next morning 
 about 9 o'clock, trying to find out where I was. The sun 
 had been shining full in my face for some time, but I had been 
 quite unconscious of it. 
 
 The rest of the party had not fared so well. They had 
 pitched their tents in a swampy place where there was some 
 wood, but it was so wet that it would not burn, and the ula 
 with their bedding did not overtake them ; so they were left 
 to pass the cold night with what they had on them, and the 
 next morning came in half frozen and very hungry. 
 
 An empty house, or kung kwan, was put at our disposal, 
 and we soon made ourselves comfortable. A little later 
 the ula all turned up, so we had bacon and eggs and fried 
 scones for breakfast, and a bucket of milk was brought in by 
 my old host, and that morning we feasted. 
 
 Here, again, the people gathered around us for medicine ; 
 and as Colonel Kao was to arrive with his younger brother, 
 who is to be put under the charge of a Lama here to be 
 prepared for the Tussuship of this State, when his aunt dies, 
 we waited another day. In honour of their arrival there was 
 to have been a great dance ; the country swains and the 
 maidens came in from the mountains dressed in gay colours, 
 and had already gathered on the green in front of the castle, 
 when three men rode in on horseback, and said some brigands 
 had driven off a large herd of cattle. .. At once the interesting 
 
 iSi 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 party broke up, and in groups of fives and tens were seen 
 hastening away to guard the passes, and to try to capture 
 the thieves and redeem the animals. 
 
 After spending a pleasant two days here we passed on to 
 Cheoser, the capital of Chosschia, where another aunt of 
 Mr. Kao's resides, and is the wife of the Tussu. 
 
 We had got the Colonel to send word over the evening he 
 arrived that we were coming and to arrange for our enter- 
 tainment. 
 
 On leaving Damba, we descended a steep hill, and after 
 travelhng four miles came to the banks of Tachin. 
 
 The only means of getting to the other side was by means 
 of a coracle, a craft the appearance of which is not inspiring. 
 It is made of a very slim frame of willow branches, woven 
 together and covered with a raw hide, is about four feet in 
 diameter and three feet deep, and will hold three people. I have 
 seen four natives, who were used to these skiffs, cross in one. 
 All hands huddle down in the bottom with their legs curled 
 up in a most uncomfortable position, and it is fatal to move 
 after the craft is shoved off. As for ourselves, we shot up 
 stream in the back water until we struck the current, when 
 the coracle was sent swirling round and round in the vortex 
 and bobbing like a cork on the waves. One moment we were 
 down in the trough with the feeling that we would surely be 
 engulfed, for the waves seemed much higher than one's head ; 
 the next we were riding the crest of the waves, but all the time 
 being carried down stream at the rate of fifteen to twenty 
 miles an hour. Just below the landing stage the river foamed 
 through some boulders and cut the shape of the letter S. 
 To a stranger it looked as if we must surely be carried on 
 to the boulders. But the ferryman, by means of his paddle, 
 steered and dragged the coracle forward in a wonderful way 
 and safely landed us, and it really needs much more skill 
 to manage one of these crafts than it does a birch bark canoe. 
 
 1S2 
 
rhc- Journey to Chosschia. 
 
 We now found our way to the town of Cheoser, where the 
 Chief had set apart a house for our use. The courtyard was 
 soon filled with Lamas and laymen, old women and young 
 maidens, all anxious to have another look at the stranger. 
 But all were friendly, and one after another I saw them point 
 to me and say " That is the man who passed through last 
 year." Some of my former escort came forward and saluted 
 me by falling on their knees, bowing their heads and saying 
 " Chou-ba-le-su, kuzu demo duk-kam " (" You are welcome ; 
 are you well ? "). 
 
 .cS{ 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Through the Unexplored Grassland. 
 
 We had to spend three days at Chosschia waiting for ula, 
 but it was not time wasted. 
 
 The people soon began to gather about, afflicted with all 
 kinds of ailments. Priests and laymen, women and girls, 
 gathered about me and had their sores dressed. Skin diseases 
 and sore eyes were the commonest complaints, but there were 
 many with ulcered legs, and some of both sexes with syphilis 
 and kindred diseases. From morning till night I was kept 
 busy, for, when I had treated all who came to our lodgings, 
 three of the chiefs sent for me to come to their homes and 
 attend to some sick folk who were not able to come out for 
 treatment. 
 
 One poor woman was almost eaten up with leprosy, and her 
 son of thirteen years lay a few yards away, reduced to skin and 
 bone ; he could not last much longer. It was most pathetic 
 to hear their pleading for help, .but I could offer them no 
 hope. I gave them some ointment to relieve their pain 
 and appease their minds for the time being ; they seemed 
 surprised when I told them frankly they could not recover. 
 The mother I judged to be about thirty-tive j^ears of age. She 
 had heard somehow that I was able to heal the sick, and had 
 sent her eldest son, who was a young Lama of about eighteen 
 years of age, to bring me up. All the chanting of the Lamas and 
 their so-called holy men had not been able to work the miracle 
 of healing, and now she believed that the foreigner could do 
 it. I shall never forget that face of sorrow as she pleaded 
 
 1S4 
 
'rhrouL^ii the Unexplored Grassland. 
 
 with nie for help, and pointing to her youngest child, a little 
 girl of about five years, said : "If I could only live until 
 my l^aby was old enough to look after herself, for who will 
 care for my baby ? " The tears ran down her cheeks, and 
 the eyelashes of others in the room, for some reason, were 
 not dry. The husband, old Tibetan as he was, kneeled down 
 beside his wife as tenderly as any foreigner could have done, 
 and whispered to her, " Do not worry about the baby, I will 
 care for her." The mother did not quite despair, and she 
 insisted that I should accept presents, which she commanded 
 her husband to bring to me, and made her son, the Lama, 
 carry to my room. I think this was the saddest case I have 
 ever attended on all my journeys in China and Tibet. 
 
 From this home I was escorted from house to house, and 
 had to attend to not a few female cases, about which I had 
 not the least idea that they would ever consult a foreigner. 
 
 Taken to the palace itself I found a poor child that had 
 fallen mto the hot ashes. The flesh was almost falling off 
 the bones of one arm and part of the shoulder, and the stench 
 was something tremendous ; but, after a great deal of work, 
 I removed most of the filth and scab, thoroughly cleansing 
 the sore, and it was wonderful the improvement, even in 
 three days. The father and mother, who at first would 
 hardly submit to my using water to cleanse the sore, were 
 so surprised at the result that they sang our praises far and 
 wide, and more than one person asked me to stay in their 
 country, as they had never had any one to care for them 
 like this before. 
 
 Even the Prince was so pleased that he consented to let 
 us travel across the Grassland where no foreigner had ever 
 been allowed to pass, and sent one of the chief's sons, whose 
 home I had visited, to escort us to Damtung, the capital of 
 Gaishechia. 
 
 From this point .Mr. Meares went south, down the valley 
 1S5 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 of the Tachin, with the cooHes and most of the stuff, while 
 Mr. Brooke came with me. We packed what we thought 
 we would need upon the horses and yaks that were brought 
 in to convey us westward. A tent, a few camping articles, 
 bedding, clothing and books, a good supply of flour and some 
 bacon — for there was nothing to be procured en route — com- 
 prised our outfit. 
 
 When all was ready we set out — one party for IMongung, 
 the other for the Unknown beyond. The whole street turned 
 out to sec us off, and we received many kind farewells and' 
 much advice about being careful on the road, for in this 
 country even their own people never know when they may 
 be surprised by a band of villains. Our interpreter from 
 Tsakalao went back from here, not understanding the lan- 
 guage beyond this point. So we started out with quite a 
 stranger, the son of one of the chiefs to whom I had given 
 medicine. 
 
 This young man proved himself a very good guide and 
 interpreter, but he had neither the cunning nor the experience 
 of my friend who had just turned back. We passed up a 
 wide valley that was mostly used as pasture land for the 
 milch cows of the town. Great boughs of wild white roses 
 clung in clusters of bloom over the stone walls that surrounded 
 the fields. The birds were singing, all Nature seemed at 
 peace, and we were happy at the thought that kindness and 
 a little knowledge had won our victory over ignorance and 
 superstition. 
 
 The year before it was with the greatest difficulty I had 
 got into this place, and the people were not friendly. On 
 one occasion Mr. Edgar had arrived there, and had to fly 
 almost for his life ; now we were the friends of the people 
 and their rulers, and were travelling under an escort and 
 with documents written by the Prince himself, stating that 
 we were his friends and must be protected and escorted safely 
 
 kS6 
 
'riir()Lij4"h the Lliicxplorcd Grassland. 
 
 through his country. I also had a letter on my person to 
 the Prince of the next State asking that he would receive 
 us. Our success was even greater than we had dreamed of. 
 
 A BOWER OK WHITE ROSES NEAR CHOSSCHIA CASTLE— MR. BROOKE KEEDINt 
 DOG ; INIERPRETER ON LEFT. 
 
 We rode north-west up the valley for about three miles, 
 then turned south-west up the side of the mountain, where 
 we toiled for some hours, tirst through a rank forest, then at 
 
Sport and Trav^el on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 8,000 feet, coming out on a great grass slope facing south. 
 A Httle later we came to a long stretch of cultivated land. 
 We put up for the night in a small village called Rengack, 
 where we were comfortably housed. There seemed to be 
 an epidemic of sore eyes all through this country and I had 
 a number of patients. The people here, fifteen miles from the 
 capital, had heard of our doings at Chosschia, and flocked 
 about us freely. Goitre seems to be a very general com- 
 plaint all through this country, and it is common to see people 
 — women especially — going about with a great pouch hang- 
 ing under their chin. I could not discover the cause, but 
 rather think it is the mica which is so plentiful about here, 
 and which, washed down by the melting snows, may be found 
 in the sparkling water that ripples down every mountain 
 side. 
 
 There .was no salt or brackish water about. The natives 
 themselves attribute the trouble to drinking snow-water. 
 I noticed that where the surrounding mountains were largely 
 composed of mica shist there goitre was most prevalent. 
 
 Another day's march brought us to the first tents in the 
 grasslands. Up till lo a.m. we marched on through fields 
 of waving barley. We were now 9,000 feet above sea-level, 
 but by reason of the southern aspect and the sandy nature 
 of the soil, the crops were well advanced, and would soon 
 be ready for the sickle. 
 
 On crossing a small stream down which a road leads from 
 Yukoh we here turned south-west, and started up the north- 
 eastern slope of Mount Zibzier. When we crossed the stream 
 we were over 10,000 feet above the sea-level. Here we entered 
 a forest, and for four miles the path ran through as wild a 
 track of country as one could wish to travel in. 
 
 By noon we had come out on the Grassland. We laboured 
 up the slope, passing a number of small lakes or basins kept 
 full of water from the melting snow, and at length reached 
 
Through the Unexplored Griissland. 
 
 the top of the pass — 12,460 feet high. We found here the 
 U5ual obo or pile of stones in whicli are inserted poles with 
 prayer-flags attached. 
 
 From the top of this pass the whole country lay open before 
 us. We could see for miles to the south, west and north 
 away over the forest, and far to the east over the country 
 we had just travelled through. On the mountain lower 
 down we could see little black specks through the glasses 
 feeding on the slopes, and knew that w^e were nearing the 
 herds. 
 
 Five miles down a gradual slope brought us to the camp 
 where the Chief lived. Not far away a number of other tents 
 were pitched, and the mountain sides were literally covered 
 with thousands of yak grazing. A few small calves were 
 tethered near the tent, and a huge mastiff, the inevitable 
 sentinel of every Tibetan's tent, whose deep bass bay make 
 the very slopes vibrate, warned the stranger to approach 
 with caution. 
 
 On arrival our interpreter went in with his letter from the 
 Prince, for here we were to change our ula. We waited some 
 time and, when he did not invite us in, walked up to the tent, 
 raised the flap, stepped in, and sat down about the fire in 
 Tibetan fashion. 
 
 The tent was about twenty-five feet long by fifteen feet wide, 
 shaped almost like the bottom of a Chinese boat when turned 
 upside down. The sides of the tent were so arranged that it 
 could be rolled up in warm weather, and in the centre of the 
 roof of the tent was a long slit that could be thrown open to let 
 the smoke out, or closed over at night to keep the snow and 
 rain out and the heat in. In the centre burned the usual 
 argol (dried manure) fire, for wood had to be carried on yak 
 from the forest ten miles away, and they only used it for 
 starting the fire. 
 
 A large pot of tea was boiling and a bucket of milk stood 
 189 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 near by ; and as they never wash these a\ ooden buckets in 
 which they milk the yak, and keep the milk while the cream 
 rises, there was a thick coating of dirt and sour milk both 
 inside and out. However, one must not look too closely 
 at things in a country like this, though, to be sure, there 
 is no need for a magnifying glass to enable one to see dirt, 
 or a microscope to discover bacteria. The milk is boiled 
 and then put in wooden vats, when it sours almost imme- 
 diately, but the people claim that they get more cream that 
 way, and make more butter. After I saw how they skimmed 
 their milk I was convinced they were right, for they put in 
 a great deal of the curd with the cream, and this curd mixes 
 with the butter in some way, and, as they do not wash the 
 butter after it is churned, it is about half curd. Sometimes, 
 when I have washed the butter before using it, most of it 
 has run off in the water in the form of butter- milk. On other 
 occasions I have used Tibetan butter which was almost pure 
 milk-fat and of a very good quality ; but a good plan is always 
 to use a knife and cut carefully through it, first one way 
 and then another, and so remove the long yak hairs which 
 are so abundant in the butter, especially in that made in the 
 springtime, when the animals are casting their coats. 
 
 The Chief promised to send ula the next morning, and 
 passed us on to Acree, where we found the large monasteiy 
 of Muska Cumba. 
 
 The monastery was built of stone, and was the only place 
 where there was any attempt at fixed dwellings. The in- 
 habitants all lived in tents, which they pitched wherever 
 they could find the best pasture for their herds, and in winter 
 they all fed in the lower valleys in the neighbourhood of the 
 monastery, 12,137 feet above sea-level. 
 
 We had somelittle difficulty in getting lodgings in the temple, 
 but after a short time the Lamas allowed us to put our things 
 in the porch of the gold-roofed temple, and lodge there for 
 
 190 
 
Through the Unexplon-d Grassland. 
 
 the night. We were able to distribute a few bocjks among 
 the Lamas, but could not get much information from 
 them, though they were much more friendly when we left. 
 There were several private residences in connection with 
 the monastery, and we saw a number of women and 
 children. 
 
 At 10 o'clock next morning the ula turned up, and we packed 
 our things, paid the drivers from Chosschia for bringing us 
 thus far, and proceeded on our journey. The country con- 
 tinued of the same undulating character, all grass. Many 
 herds were pasturing, especially on the higher slopes above 
 12,000 feet, w^here they graze in the summer months, 
 the lower valleys being reserved for the winter pasture 
 lands. 
 
 That night, after crossing another pass 14,000 feet high, 
 we reached a monastery called Kimlung, which was about 
 the same size as Muska, -having about 200 Lamas and 100 lay 
 families. 
 
 At first the Lamas were not friendly, but on our showing 
 our letters and saying that if we informed their Tussu of 
 their unwillingness to give us shelter for a night he would 
 not be pleased, they consented to allow us to stay in a large 
 room connected with a private residence, and later brought 
 us wood and were amicable. A number of people came 
 from the tents for medicine. I extracted some teeth, which 
 was a great surprise to the Lamas ; but the owners of 
 these annoying decayed pieces of bone were very grateful 
 at being relieved of the source of their pain, and brought 
 presents of milk and butter, which they insisted we should 
 accept. 
 
 One more hard day's march brought us to Damtung, where 
 the Tussu of Gaishechia lives. It had been raining nearly 
 every day since we left Chosschia and was still at it when we 
 arrived at Damtung. Of course there were dry spells each 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 day, but in this country one minute the sky is black with 
 thunder-clouds, and an hour after is bright blue. 
 
 When we reached Damtung it was pouring, and we were 
 wet through, and were glad when, after some little delay, we 
 were shown to a house near the castle. We gathered round 
 a fire in a smoky little room, cooked our supper, dried our 
 clothes, slept, and awaited events of the next three days. 
 
 [92 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 In the Land of the Cattle Thieves. 
 
 We were the first foreigners who ever have visited Damtvmg, 
 and we found it a compact Httle town, well fortified by physi- 
 cal conditions, being built on the projection of a mountain 
 where two swift streams join, both of which it would be most 
 difficult to ford. For, while the streams were not over three feet 
 deep, except in flood time, yet they came rolhng down at 
 such a rate that it would carry men or animals clean off their 
 feet. Now it was a roaring cataract on both sides of the 
 capital. The photograph will give a better idea than I can 
 make with my pen. Indeed, my pen utterly refuses to por- 
 tray the beauties of this rare and wonderful scenery, so I 
 must trust to the illustrations for that, and confine myself 
 to the simple story of what took place on the march, day 
 by day. When we first arrived the people looked on us with 
 suspicion and were very shy, but they were not long in chang- 
 ing their attitude. Our interpreter told them of what we 
 had done in Chosschia, and before 9 o'clock next morning 
 I was invited to see my first patient, who was lying 
 dangerously ill in a house close by. 
 
 He was a man of about thirty years of age, nearly six feet 
 tall, and although he had a big strong frame, he was reduced 
 to skin and bone. I found he had been suffering from fever 
 for twenty days, and, having recovered from that, was now 
 suffering from another complaint which was the result of fever. 
 He could not have lived many days longer unless he got relief 
 in some way, for all the remedies that they knew of had failed. 
 (11243) 193 '^ 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes, 
 
 A simple operation by means of a syringe and some warm 
 water was all that was required, and to the amazement of the 
 natives the man immediately began to recover. I prescribed 
 egg and milk, and though we only remained here three days, 
 my patient had so far recovered that he was able to sit up 
 and walk about a little. 
 
 The report of what I was able to do for a poor cottager 
 was not long in finding its way to the ears of the Tussu. At 
 2 o'clock he sent one of his servants to invite me to his 
 palace, which is the high building near the tower seen in the 
 photograph. 
 
 On passing a large courtyard where the cattle are housed 
 at night I ascended two flights of stairs, passed two tigers 
 which were kept in a cage on one of the landings, and then 
 on through a long corridor. A yellow silk curtain was lifted 
 and I was ushered into a room about twenty feet square, in 
 which was a table and two chairs. In the centre of the room 
 was a brazier, and therein a charcoal fire burned and the 
 inevitable teapot boiled. 
 
 On a wooden bed, curtained with yellow satin, reclined a 
 miserable looking creature, whom they introduced to me as 
 the Prince or ruler of the State. His feet were at right angles 
 to his body, and could not be straightened out. The pain 
 was so excruciating that he had taken to the pernicious habit 
 of opium-smoking in order to get rehef. His hair was in a 
 knotted mat, his face distorted to such an extent that he 
 looked more like a beggar than a prince, though his 
 surroundings were otherwise. 
 
 On examination I found that he was suffering from in- 
 flammatory rheumatism, and that he had been ill for about 
 two months. I had with me none of the medicines that are 
 usually prescribed for this trouble ; but as became a quack 
 who had at last achieved a royal patient, I felt I must do 
 something ; so going back for my medicine case, and hunting 
 
 194 
 
In the Land of the Cattle Thieves. 
 
 it through, I uttered this prescription :— To start with, a 
 good dose of salts ; lo grains of quinine morning and even- 
 ing ; massage for the legs for six hours a day (if the patient 
 could stand it), and this last I illustrated by taking my turn 
 at the work for the first half-hour. Wc had brought methy- 
 lated spirits for preserving such insects and reptiles as we 
 might secure on our way, and this was freely used in the pro- 
 cess of massaging, with vaseline later, to keep the skin from 
 being too much irritated. At 9 p.m. I went up to the castle 
 again, painted the knees with iodine, and, wrapping the 
 legs in flannel, told' the royal patient that he must go 
 to sleep. 
 
 Next morning, shortly after 9 o'clock, I was called to the 
 palace, as the Prince wanted me. I followed my guide into 
 his presence. On entering I noticed a heavy cane near the 
 Chief's bed and rather wondered whether it would be used 
 on me ; but I had not to wait long to see what it was for. 
 Almost immediately the Chief seized the cane, threw off the 
 covering and swung out of bed, and, in a manner hard to 
 describe, hobbled across the room and back to his bed again. 
 This was the first time he had been able to put his feet to 
 the floor for nearly three months, and I have never seen a 
 child more dehghted with a new toy than this Tussu was 
 over being able to use his legs. 
 
 I forbade his attempting to do this for a few days, and 
 unbandaging his limbs gave them another good massage, 
 and repeated yesterday's prescription, then left his people 
 to continue the rubbing. On pulling the legs lightly to try 
 to straighten them I found that they already relaxed to an 
 angle of about 20 degrees. 
 
 The Prince's wife and daughter now came into the room 
 and prostrated themselves on the floor to thank me for what 
 I had done. Indeed, the cure was more rapid than even I 
 had dreamed it could be, and to them it seemed a miracle. 
 
 197 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 I returned to our abode, and awaiting the ula which had 
 to be brought from the mountain (a day's journey away), 
 we were not idle, for the people kept flocking about all day. 
 Already word had reached some of the country people ten miles 
 away, and in they came to see the magician thus suddenly 
 alighted in their midst. Patrons of all descriptions and all 
 ages flocked about, and I was kept busy from morning to 
 night. All fear of the foreigner seemed suddenly to have 
 vanished, and they were as free in making known their com- 
 plaints as if I had lived in their midst all my life. That night 
 the Tussu sent down one of his retainers to know if I cared 
 to choose a wife from the fair daughters of Gaishechia, saying 
 I was invited to come up to the palace to choose one from 
 the scores of eager faces which, from our humble position 
 on the roof of our lodgings, I could see peering over the 
 parapet of the castle. Needless to say I thanked the Chief 
 for his kindness and thoughtfulness, but informed him I had 
 a wife at Chentu. " Oh ! " said the emissary, " but a Chinese 
 woman is not like our women, they stay in the house and 
 have small feet, so that they cannot walk. One of our women 
 would go with you, carry your load, cook your food and do 
 all kinds of work." Again assuring him that this was not 
 necessary, I gratefully dismissed him. 
 
 When we arose next morning we found the ula had at last 
 arrived, and, while the yakmen were packing the things on 
 the yak, Brooke and I went up to say good-bye and see 
 how the patient was progressing. As soon as we entered the 
 room he sprang out of bed, and, with the aid of his stick, 
 walked around the room almost in an upright position. 
 
 We were almost as delighted as he was at this sudden re- 
 covery. The Prince called for paper and ink, and wrote down 
 the foreign names of the remedies used, using the Tibetan 
 character, and then wrote down my name and address at 
 Chentu. 
 
 198 
 
In the Land of the Cattle Thieves. 
 
 We got a photograph of the huge mastiff kept to guard the 
 palace, and then said good-bye. 
 
 THK (lUARD ON THE ROOF — TIUETAN MASTIFF. 
 
 Three months later tlie Prince sent some of his people all 
 theway to Chentu, twenty days' journey, with presents to me, 
 
 199 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 and a message that he had quite recovered, and that I was 
 welcome to his State whenever I chose again to visit him. 
 
 When all was packed we set out to visit the famous robber 
 district of Yukoh. The only name that is written on our 
 maps to convey any idea of what that stretch of country is 
 like is the word " Goluk " or " Robbers," while on many maps 
 it is left entirely blank. The inhabitants are known to the 
 Chinese as " the great cattle thieves," and many of the neigh- 
 bouring tribes fear these pillagers. The Prince of Yukoh 
 is married to a sister of the Prince of Chosschia, and the Yukoh 
 prince's brother is married to the sister of the Prince of 
 Gaishechia, and by means of these marriage ties they try 
 to hve at peace with each other ; but despite this bond of 
 marriage the herdsmen of the different States often have 
 feuds with each other about the boundary line of their pasture 
 lands, and sometimes take possession of each other's herds, 
 if they happen to stray over the boundary. A feud of this 
 kind took place between the herdsmen of Yukoh and Choss- 
 chia on the northern border, a few days after we passed through. 
 
 On our way to Yukoh we followed the left hand stream 
 shown in the photograph, and after four hours' travelling 
 through wooded land, which we entered about a mile from the 
 capital of Gaishechia, we came out on grass land again, and 
 four hours more brought us to a small temple and a few tents. 
 
 The priest was quite differently dressed from any I had 
 ever seen, having long hair, like a Taoist, done up on the top 
 of his head. He had a wife who lived in a tent close by. 
 Their images were very similar to those usually found in 
 Buddhist temples, but it was reported that their books differ. 
 
 This was the only priest of this order I had met with in all 
 the journey, and I am not prepared to say just what branch 
 of the faith he represented. He was not a Bon, at least not 
 as we find Bons in the Tachin valley, in Bati and Bawang 
 States, where they have adhered to the primitive form of 
 
In the Land of the Cattle Thieves. 
 
 Bon Nature Worship. I was told that this was a sect found 
 only among the herdsmen, and now almost extinct, being 
 superseded by the Red and Yellow sect. 
 
 In the porch of this little temple we spent the night, camp- 
 ing early, as it had rained hard all the afternoon. About 
 5 o'clock a Lama, the brother of the Gaishechia chief, over- 
 took us, riding a big white horse. He had five companions 
 all armed to the teeth. They had been sent by the Prince 
 to escort us, and hand us safely over to the brother of the 
 Yakoh Tussu, who was camped some ten miles further up 
 the valley. We were now camped at the boundary line of 
 the two States, Gaishechia and Yukoh. 
 
 This escort had good horses and rode on to the camps that 
 night, while we decided to pass the night where we were and 
 go up next morning. 
 
 It was 10 o'clock when we sighted the camp and the herds 
 grazing on the slopes. By ii o'clock we drew up in front of 
 fifty-six black tents all pitched on a level flat between two 
 streams, which here could be easily forded. Our Gaishechia 
 Lama was accompanied by two of the Yukoh Prince's brothers, 
 one a Lama, the other married to the sister of the Gaishechia 
 Chief. 
 
 Their servants brought Tibetan rugs along, which were 
 spread on the ground, and we were asked to be seated. 
 
 We found that our escort had arrived late the evening 
 before, and had been attacked by the great ferocious dogs kept 
 to guard these tents. One of the escort had been badly torn 
 by one of these dogs, and I made shift to dress twenty-eight 
 nasty wounds, some of them on his face, others on his arms, 
 hands and legs. This occupied nearly two hours. Next the 
 Chief's son, a lad of fifteen, was brought with a bad foot, and 
 when he was attended to we were urged to pitch our tents 
 and spend the rest of the day with our friends. 
 
 The whole encampment gathered about and lent a hand. 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 and in a very short time all our ula was unpacked, our tent 
 erected, and we were led off to visit the Chief in his tent. 
 There was nothing to distinguish this from any of the others, 
 only it was pitched almost in the centre of the encampment. 
 Inside it had more comfort in the way of rugs and cooking 
 utensils ; but they all ate the same kind of food and hved 
 practically in the same way. 
 
 KlNCIi S BROTHER — YAK IN l-'OREGKOUND. 
 
 In the evening quite 5,000 head of yak, sheep and horses 
 were driven in. There was no enclosure, but the yak were 
 tethered to long hues made of yak hair and pinned to the 
 ground. The sheep gathered toward the centre of the en- 
 campment, and at dark the dogs were let loose. They scam- 
 pered round the outside of the camps, kept the herds to- 
 gether, and kept off wild animals from the flock. All night 
 
In the Land of the Cattle Thieves. 
 
 long the deep baying of these ferocious brutes resounded in 
 the still night air, and warned the stranger that the safest 
 place was inside his tent. On several occasions a pack of 
 dogs came so close to our tent that we thought they were 
 going to attack it, but they scampered off again without 
 harming us. 
 
 Next morning we set out for the capital, which we found 
 to be quite thirty miles further on. We tramped up to the 
 watershed, between the head-waters of the Kwanyin, and the 
 stream that flows past Gaishechia, and empties into the 
 Tachin near Romi Chanku. The pass of Gerhubdumdoh 
 we found to be somewhat higher than the other we had come 
 over, and we got into a heavy snowstorm near the top. 
 
 After crossing the pass we found large herds on the other 
 side belonging to the inhabitants. These herdsmen seem to 
 group together in parties of from ten to fifty famihes, each 
 with their own tent made of black yak hair. When the yak 
 are brought in at night the animals are thrown and their 
 feet tied by a rope. Then a number of people gather round 
 and pluck the hair out in great handfuls, continuing until 
 all the long hair is plucked out. The poor creature groans 
 at every tug that is given, and it is no hght pull that extracts 
 a handful of hair from these yak. At 5 o'clock, in a pouring 
 rain, we reached the capital of Yukoh State, and were almost 
 carried away while crossing the stream that flows past the 
 monastery. 
 
 At first we tried to secure lodgings in the monastery itself 
 but did not succeed, so pitched our tents in the pouring rain, 
 and made our beds on the wet grass. With great difficulty 
 we secured some wood and cooked some food. We had not 
 eaten anything since morning and had had a long march. 
 A Lama, the Tussu's brother, had gone up another ravine 
 to bring word of our arrival to the Tussu, who was also out 
 in a tent with his herds, so that we had no one to herald our 
 
 203 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 arrival, and had to wait till late in the afternoon of the next 
 day before he arrived with ula to take us on. 
 
 This Lama was a very sullen-lonking priest, and if it had 
 
 RSE-MAID AND BABY. 
 
 not been for the Gaishechia Tussu sending his brother along we 
 should not have fared so well as we did. We could do but httle 
 here, though we met people from other States who were friendly. 
 
 204 
 
In the Land of the Cattle Thieves. 
 
 The next morning we set out on a 30-mile march to Dawo, 
 and pressed on over the same rolhng grass land. Some two 
 miles from the capital of Yiikoh we passed a hot spring where 
 there was mixed bathing. On the opposite side of the stream 
 we saw a band of the famous cattle raiders, returning with 
 their plunder of about 200 head of yak, which they were 
 forcing on at the point of their long lances. These would 
 be taken to the Tussu's tent, and, after he had taken his share 
 of the booty, the raiders would be pardoned and the remainder 
 of the plunder would be theirs. 
 
 It is hard to imagine a more fiendish-looking lot of men than 
 these nomads of the grassy slopes. According to the maps 
 this country is all within the Szechuan province, but the 
 Chinese official has to ask leave if he wishes to travel in these 
 highlands, and the inhabitants would think as little of plunder- 
 ing him as they would the ordinary merchant. One might 
 undertake a journey in the hope of trade. 
 
 We were benighted and had to camp on the plain, and 
 the next morning about 8 o'clock reached Dawo, a large 
 monastery on the great north road to Tibet. 
 
 205 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 The Traffic of the Great North Road. 
 
 On arriving at Dawo we found a large monastery which 
 contained about 3,000 Lamas, and close by was a small village 
 of about fifty families. We got rooms in a large new gochuang, 
 belonging to the people of Mantze State. A gochuang is a 
 house built by a tribe for the accommodation of their people, 
 while passing through on business. 
 
 In large centres like Tacheinlu, each tribe has its own 
 guest-house. This one we found to be very roomy and, as 
 it had just been reconstructed, it was quite clean. Upon 
 examination we discovered that most of the houses were new 
 and several others in the course of construction. When we 
 inquired why these houses were being rebuilt, we were told 
 that some three years previously a great earthquake had 
 destroyed nearly all the buildings, and killed most of the 
 inhabitants. The monastery, which is about half-a-mile 
 away, had also been shaken, and some of the cloisters in 
 connection with it fell, yet the temples and many of the 
 cells were unharmed. 
 
 These monasteries along the main road are also great 
 warehouses or tea stations; much of the tea shipped into 
 Tibet travels over this road, and is conveyed from stage to 
 stage by local animals. A great part of this work is done 
 gratis, while on some occasions a small fee is paid by the 
 monastery for carrying the tea from one post to another. 
 I saw hundreds of yak loads deposited at Dawo while I was 
 there. 
 
 2C6 
 
BLACK RIVER BLACKSMITH AM) HIS WIFE. 
 
The Traffic of the Great North Road. 
 
 We thought of passing down through Chantwei, a track 
 of country that is bounded by the Horba States on the north, 
 by Dergi on the west, by Chala on the east and by Litang on 
 the south ; so far as I know, Chantwei has never been visited 
 by any European. 
 
 We found a Mohammedan mihtary official here whom 
 I had met some years before. He called and was most 
 friendly. We made very cautious inquiries about the 
 condition of the country to the west, and found it was 
 governed from Lhasa, the official being changed every three 
 years. About nfteen years ago these people rebelled against 
 the Chinese, who asked the Tibetan troops from Batang to 
 help them to put down the rebellion. It ended in the Chinese 
 handing the government of the country over to Lhasa, as 
 the inhabitants were all Tibetans, on condition that there 
 should be no raiding along the big roads. An official was 
 appointed from the Holy City with the title known to the 
 Chinese as Tsangwang, or Tibetan king, but his term of office 
 is only for three years, so that he is not a king actually, though 
 the Chinese call him by that name. 
 
 The new representative from Lhasa had just taken over 
 office ; from the reports we got he seemed to be quite an 
 obstinate man, who intended to compel the Chinese to hand 
 back the country taken by the Chinese troops when the 
 Litang monastery was sacked about seven years ago. 
 
 It would be interesting to know just how many troops 
 inhabit the country of Chantwei. Report has it that there 
 are 80,000 men capable of bearing arms, but this must be 
 greatly exaggerated, though it was given to me as the result 
 of the census recently taken. 
 
 By 6 o'clock a.m. our ula to convey us to Tachienlu had 
 
 arrived ; but late the previous evening Mr. Ma had agreed 
 
 to send his interpreter with me over to the Tussu to see if 
 
 it were possible to get through Chantwei. We postponed 
 
 (1 1243) 209 p 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 our journe5^ Mr. Ma promised to send up the interpreter 
 for me, so I waited till 9 o'clock, but he did not appear, 
 and I went over to see what had happened. I was told that 
 early in the morning the interpreter had gone across the 
 river to arrange an audience and had not returned. I was 
 none too pleased with Mr. Ma, and told him I knew what 
 the answer would be, but he assured me it would be all right, 
 and that the interpreter would soon be back; accordingly 
 we waited. It was 12 o'clock when they sent word that the 
 Tussu would not receive mc, so I went over to Mr. Ma, and 
 told him what I thought of his plan and its result. He 
 expressed his regret, but assured me he had done his best. 
 Knowing that it is the business of these officials to stop 
 travellers from entering a country of this kind, I said, " If 
 you will allow me, I will go across the river and seek an inter- 
 view with the Tussu and return before dark." Whether he 
 thought that I was " bluffing " and that I would not dare 
 to cross the river in the coracle, I don't know, but he replied, 
 " All right, you may go, but it will be impossible for you to 
 get an audience." He wanted to send his interpreter along, 
 but I refused his aid, seeing that we had a man of our own. 
 So, immediately setting out, we succeeded in crossing the 
 Ngachu, which was divided into several streams. 
 
 The valley is quite wide here and the water is high, 
 necessitating three portages before we crossed the other bank, 
 and it took us a full hour to cross, for we were carried far down 
 the stream. Consequently it was almost 2 o'clock when we 
 found ourselves outside the palace gate. 
 
 I sent in the interpreter with my letter from the Chosschia 
 and Gaishechia Tussus. 
 
 In a very few minutes I was invited to enter and was shown 
 to the seat of honour. 
 
 The Tussu, in this case a female, entered. She was a 
 woman of about forty. One of the retainers poured out a cup 
 
 210 
 
The Traffic of the Great North Road. 
 
 of tea and handed it to her, which she passed on to me with 
 a very pohte courtesy. She then sat down and talked for a 
 little on local affairs. I found she understood Chinese very 
 well, though Tibetan was the language spoken by the people. 
 Presenting her with a Waterbury watch, which she accepted, 
 I then very soon made known the object of my visit, first 
 stating that the Princes of Chosschia, Gaishechia and Yukoh 
 had given me ula and a letter or passport, which I submitted 
 to her and stated that I would like ula now to pass through 
 Chantwei. At first she tried to put me off, saying that if the 
 Tussu of Kongser, who lived on the other side of the river, 
 would give me a letter and ula, she would do the same. My 
 reply to this suggestion was that it was very difficult and 
 dangerous work crossing the river, but that if she would just 
 write her letter and give it to the interpreter, who was a 
 relative, he would carry it and, should the Tussu of the 
 Kongser refuse, I would send him back with her letter. So 
 she wrote the order for ula and also a letter to the Chief or 
 Lhasa representative of Chantwei. We left, thanking her, 
 and feeling that part of the task was accomplished. 
 
 On recrossing the river, we went direct to the Kongser 
 Tussu, and found him a most sullen, insignificant man. 
 Presenting my credentials, I at once stated my business. 
 His reply was, " If you can get a letter and ula from the Tussu 
 of Mantze I will give you one." My reply was, " I have 
 that," and presented her order. He studied it for a few 
 minutes, then called for pen and paper, and wrote the order 
 for ula and a permit to pass through his territory. 
 
 Now that the difficulty of gaining admission was overcome, 
 I returned to the gochuang with something of the feeling of 
 victory in my breast. 
 
 Mr. Ma was quite surprised at my success, and so was Mr. 
 Brooke, as he felt that the Chinese official had done us at 
 last. 
 
 (II243) 2.1 P2 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 Now that we had got permission to go, and the ula was in, 
 we began to query if it were really right to go on. We had 
 no Scripture left either in Tibetan or Chinese, neither had we 
 any mapping paper, and it seemed a useless tramp to go 
 through a country like this, able to do nothing. 
 
 I was due at Chentu by a fixed date, and if we took this 
 journey it would probably lead us through Derge, which 
 would mean a two months' journey and perhaps more ; we 
 decided that it was best to go south to Tachienlu, and attempt 
 this journey at soms future date. Thus halting between 
 two opinions we had our ula again changed for Tachienlu, 
 and started south the next morning. We were then on the 
 northern road between Tachienlu and Lhasa, over which 
 others had travelled, and which has been described by more 
 than one. I need not detain my readers in this section of the 
 country with more than a few glimpses by the way, that the 
 blank may not be too great between Dawo and Tachienlu. 
 
 From Dawo to Tachienlu is about 510 li (or 135 miles). 
 It is called seven stages for a horseman, but we did it with ula 
 in that time, including waiting for relays, though that was not 
 considerable on this road. 
 
 About two miles south of Dawo the Nga River turns west 
 and disappears in the mountains. All along its banks a foot- 
 path is reported to exist, but in some places it is almost 
 impassable and really dangerous. We followed up a small 
 stream that flows into the Ngachu, near the point where it 
 disappears into the gorges of Chant wei. The road was 50 to 
 100 feet wide most of the way, and we met large caravans 
 of yak laden with tea, one day 500, another day 200, besides 
 passing large herds grazing on the grassy plain. 
 
 The tea was piled in great heaps in front of the hght tents. 
 These tents are made of ordinary grey shirting which people 
 take on the road because of the convenience in transit. 
 
 We soon passed over into Chiala State, for Dawo is located 
 
The Traffic of the Great North Road. 
 
 just at the corners of Matze, Kongser and Chiala States. 
 Three days through almost uninhabited grass land brought 
 us to Tailing, where a fierce battle was fought between the 
 Tibetans and the Chinese troops in 1903, when the Tibetan 
 monastery was destroyed by the Chinese troops. Tailing 
 has long been a military post and there is quite a long street 
 composed of one-storey, fiat-roofed, wooden houses, most of 
 which are new, as the former buildings were destroyed by the 
 
 ENCAMPED FOK DINNKK— AUTHOR ON LEFT, MK. BROOKE ON KKJHl, 
 
 Tibetans. The Chinese have made the Tibetans build the 
 present new ones as punishment for the outbreak. WTien 
 the Chinese troops re-took the place from the Tibetans, they 
 sacked and destroyed the large monastery, carrying away 
 many valuable copper and bionze utensils; in fact every- 
 thing that the Lamas left behind, when they lied before the 
 troops. This loot was taken to Tachienlu and sold, and was 
 readily bought up by the Mohammedans and Chinese traders, 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 who carried on quite a business. Most of the soldiers had no 
 idea of the value of most of the articles they had secured, 
 and if they had, it was imperative for them to dispose of the 
 stuff for what they could get, as they could not carr}?' it with 
 them on the march. 
 
 When we passed through, the temple was almost restored, 
 the workmen were busy painting it in most brilhant colours ; 
 when completed it would look very grand indeed. The 
 Lamas were very friendly and showed us all over the place. 
 Before the late war they would have refused to admit foreigners 
 within this Holy enclosure. 
 
 The cause of the trouble was that the Chinese were coming 
 in large parties to dig and wash for gold. 
 
 Near TaiHng we met 500 yak in one caravan, laden with 
 tea, going westward. 
 
 I kept count of the animals that passed up during the two 
 days we spent at Dawo, and also on the way down, and 
 allowing three days for our journey from Dawo to Tailing, 
 the average number of loads that passed up was 200 per day. 
 Each load averaged 120 catties, which would amount to 24,000 
 catties per day, allowing sixty days in July and August, when 
 there are very few loads shipped from Tachienlu on account 
 of the heat, which neither the yak nor the inhabitants of the 
 higher plateaus can endure. If we accept the statement that 
 24,000 catties of tea are carried up this road by yak and mules 
 for consumption in Tibet, for 300 days in the year, we find 
 that 7,200,000 catties of tea are carried over this great north 
 road. If we look at Sir Alexander Hosie's carefully worked-out 
 report, founded on the statistics he was able to obtain at 
 Tachienlu, we find that he estimated the tea passing through 
 Tachienlu every year at 8,533,000 catties, and the value to 
 amount to 948,591 taels. My rough estimate of what passed 
 over the Great North road, viz., 7,200,000 catties, would leave 
 1,333.000 catties to be conveyed over the western route to 
 
 214 
 
CHINESE TEA-COOLIK CA 
 
 RKYING 370 rOl'NDS OF TEA. 
 
The Traffic of the Great North Road. 
 
 Litang and Batang and other local routes. This would allow 
 for about six times as much of the tea for Tibet to be carried 
 over the Great North road, and find its way to the heart of 
 that great country. 
 
 On a very fair basis, Sir Alexander Hosie has been able 
 to compute the quantity of tea passing through Tachienlu, 
 
 HOT-SPRING NEAR YUKOH — ^AND MIXED KATHING. 
 
 and I believe he is well on the safe side, as no doubt some 
 tea finds its way through which is not registered on the official 
 books ; and we may add to this amount the tea that finds its 
 way into Tibet through Songpan, Mongun and Tsakalao, 
 which is not less than one-quarter of that passing through 
 Tachienlu, or say 2,133,250 catties. Almost as much more 
 
 217 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 finds its wav through India and Russia. I know that along 
 the Kansu border and Kokonor district the Hankow brick 
 tea is almost universally used, so that the total amount of 
 tea finding its way into Tibet by other routes may be safely 
 estimated as being equal to the quantity entering from 
 Szechwan, that is, from Tachienlu, 8,533,000 catties ; and 
 from Kwanhsien, 2,133,250 catties ; would give a total amount 
 from Szechwan of 10,666,250 catties. Allowing that much 
 more finds its way into the countrv' from India, Russia, 
 Yunnan and Kansu, 10,666,250 catties ; we may estimate 
 the total quantity of tea annually consumed in Tibet from 
 all sources to be not less than 21,332,500 catties. 
 
 If we next allow three catties of tea per person, we arrive 
 at a population of 7,111,166 souls. Now this is a very poor 
 way of getting an estimate of the population ; but I beheve 
 that research will prove that that quantity of tea finds its 
 way annually into the country. And while the Tibetans 
 are great tea drinkers, yet they boil their tea until every 
 particle of tannin is extracted, and they also use a family pot, 
 so that a pound of tea will go a long way with them ; and 
 when we take men, women and children into account, and 
 also that it is a cold country, I beheve that three catties 
 each is not too small an estimate of the consumption per 
 head. 
 
 When we passed through Tailing, it was reported to us 
 that there were 350 Chinese engaged in the goldfields, along 
 the valleys and streams, which are very numerous here. The 
 whole country is hopelessly broken up, and streams run in 
 every direction of the compass. Groups of gold diggers, 
 varying from 10 to as many as 100 men, were to be seen, all 
 busilv digging up the sand and gravel near the water's edge 
 and washing it. 
 
 The great snow mountains towered up in the south-east. 
 The most northerly peak is Tapaoshan (Great Peak Mountain), 
 
 218 
 
The Traffic of the Great North Road. 
 
 also called Dabashan, which is the name given to cattle thieves. 
 The Yukoh raiders sometimes come as far south as this and 
 surprise parties crossing to the Tachin Valley. There is also 
 a road from here to Romi Changku, a Chinese military post, 
 at the junction of the Tachin and Siaochin Rivers. Tapao- 
 shan towers up 25,000 feet, and is quite conical in shape at 
 the peak. A little south of it, in the same range, is Haitze- 
 shan, so called because of numerous small lakes found about 
 its base. 
 
 At 4.30 next morning we struck camp, and followed the 
 stream down twenty li and came to Fame, on the big road, 
 where we had breakfast and changed our ula. One of the 
 men had come on here the night before, so the ula was all 
 ready for us. 
 
 The people were most friendly, and set tea, butter, curds 
 and tsamba on small tables about fourteen inches high, while 
 we sat on benches of about the same height. Chinese customs 
 were to some extent making themselves felt. As soon as 
 the thunder-storm, which came on with terrific force, had 
 subsided, we set out for Barchonku, which we found to be 
 11,567 feet high, and here we again changed ula. There was 
 a little cultivation about, especially in the valley just below 
 the house of the Fupei Fu, but most of the country was grass- 
 land, and it was very cold at night. 
 
 On the way up I heard of a strange kind of cat, of which they 
 gave the most wild description, calling it the lion-cat. I got 
 one of the escort to go back with me to see this strange animal, 
 and after riding five miles we found that the reported lion-cat 
 was nothing more than an ordinary house cat. Its hair was 
 long and fuzzy-looking on account of the cold chmate. 
 
 On the way back we had one of the most severe thunder- 
 storms I have ever been out in, but it is wonderful how quickly 
 the weather changes in this part of the world. One minute 
 you bask in brilliant sunshine, the next are pelted with 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 rain and hail, and so severely that it is almost impossible to 
 live in it. Six miles farther on there were about fifty gold 
 diggers at work in the bed of the stream. Each gang was com- 
 posed of fourteen men, which was subdivided into two parties 
 of seven. Each party dug a hole along the river's bank. 
 Before digging far, they get below the water in the stream, 
 the pit keeps filling up, and the miners bale it out with a hand 
 ladle. In one place they were working a bamboo pump, 
 and three men were working a small rod, with a sucker on the 
 other end, but they only succeeded in pumping out a stream 
 of water about half-an-inch in diameter. It was more like 
 milking a cow than draining a mine, only the quantity of 
 water did not in any way seem to be reduced. Three men 
 worked the rod, while four stood by and smoked or looked on. 
 They changed places frequently though there were no signs 
 of perspiration on any of them. This was reported to be 
 a good pit, if they could only get it drained. When enough 
 fine sand is collected in the bottom of one of these holes it 
 is carried in buckets to the stream, ten paces away, and 
 washed over a board some three feet long by eighteen inches 
 wide, which has grooves cut in it to catch the gold. 
 
 The stream has a fall of about two feet in every ten feet run, 
 and it would have been the simplest thing in the world to 
 have had a proper trench and sluice-way for washing the sand ; 
 but John Chinaman likes his own way of doing tilings and 
 only laughed at me when I suggested something better. 
 
 It was almost dark when I reached Porchangku, to find 
 the party all comfortably housed. 
 
 The country was similar to that we had traversed for the 
 past two weeks, only more rolling, with high peaks imme- 
 diately about. 
 
 At last we came in sight of Tachienlu, and received a hearty 
 welcome from the missionaries located there. 
 
 The China Inland Mission have had a station here for 
 
The Traffic of the Great North Road. 
 
 nearly fifteen years, and the Foreign Christian Mission of 
 America have been at work for about six years, and were 
 then just moving on to Batang, another eighteen days' 
 journey further west, where they were opening a new work. 
 
 We were well looked after during our short stay, and it 
 was indeed pleasant to reach a Mission Station and kind 
 friends after our wanderings. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Up the Tung River. 
 
 After our long journey over a very rough country, where we 
 had to hve almost entirely on the local produce of the land, 
 which was barley meal and butter, it was good to find our- 
 selves once more sitting around a table on which a white cloth 
 was spread. Better still, the table was amply supplied with 
 such luxuries as strawberries and cream, home-made bread 
 and butter, and many of the other dehcacies that may be 
 found in an English home, and this although we were on the 
 very borders of Tibet. But wherever the Western lady goes 
 she soon adapts herself to local conditions. What is still 
 more important, she puts her wise hands on the local produce, 
 and with a little manipulation transfers it into delicacies which 
 are far more appreciated by the traveller who has been 
 roughing it than a preparation of the same kind would be 
 under much more favourable conditions. 
 
 And here is a reason why so many travellers write of the 
 missionary as living in luxury. On most occasions, when he 
 visits one, it is after a long trying journey on which his supplies 
 have run short, and he has been reduced to what he can pick 
 up on the way — sometimes very meagre fare indeed. He 
 then arrives at a station, and the missionary's wife, wishing 
 to be kind, brings out her preserved fruit which she has laid 
 by for special occasions, and in fact puts herself out to enter- 
 tain the stranger and make him feel at home : often to find 
 herself and her family written up in some book as a missionary 
 household which lives in luxury, with nothing to do but 
 entertain passing strangers. 
 
 224 
 
Up the TuniJ^ River. 
 
 We were fortunate enough to reach Tachienlu in the straw- 
 berry season, when the mountain sides were covered with 
 beautiful, wild, red, luscious berries. The native children 
 go out in parties and gather these berries, and sell them on 
 the street for less than a penny a pound. 
 
 The cattle that graze on the mountains about the city 
 were driven in and milked, and the milk can be bought for 
 
 IIEN-I.r KI\ICK. 
 
 about a penny a pint, so that while strawberries were a great 
 luxury to us, they had been the common dessert of missionary 
 homes for some weeks. Even China and some parts of Tibet 
 are not such bad places to live in during some parts of the 
 year, especially when people know how to adapt themselves 
 to circumstances, and to make the best of what is available. 
 
 We spent one and a-half days in Tachienlu, which is a small 
 but very important border town. To this city hundreds of 
 
 (1 1243) 225 Q 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 Tibetans come daily, some from the very heart of Tibet, as 
 well as from all parts of the border States, and here is the 
 great depository of the Chinese Tibetan frontier. Taking 
 the average train of tea coolies, we find that about 125 arrive 
 daily throughout the year, each coolie carrying a burden 
 of about 200 catties (or 366 lbs.). During the busy season 
 there are as many as 400 coolies arriving per day ; in the slack 
 season very few are seen along this road. But, since Tachienlu 
 is the terminus of the Chinese coohe line of transportation, 
 it is also the point from where the yak caravans are made up. 
 
 Commercially Tachienlu is of great importance. From the 
 heart of Tibet hides, wool, deer's horns, musk and gold dust 
 all find their way, and these are exchanged on the street of 
 Tachienlu for tea, cotton goods and haberdashery of all 
 kinds, such as are used in Tibet for bartering purposes. 
 
 The stranger, simply passing through the place, m^ght 
 dismiss it as a dirty military outpost. The streets are very 
 narrow and, if one turns out early in the morning, they will 
 be found extremely filthy, especially in the summer months. 
 The shops look insignificant, as httle can be seen in them 
 but copper kettles, pots and pans, used by the Tibetans when 
 travelling; and cloth, needles and cotton thread, a few old 
 swords and rehcs from monasteries which the Chinese troops 
 have looted, complete the display. 
 
 The Lu River comes rolling through the centre of the 
 town, bisecting it. This river is spanned by three suspension 
 bridges, over which foot passengers, animals and caravan 
 traffic pass to and fro. The town is paved with stone 
 throughout, the houses are built on wooden frames, with 
 movable wood fronts, mostly painted brown, but some of the 
 walls are built of stone. The architecture is a modified Chinese 
 Tibetan style found all along the frontier. 
 
 The finest building in the place is the Ming-chen Ssii. This 
 title was given by the Chinese to the Tussu of Chala State, 
 
 226 
 
up tilt' Tiint^- River. 
 
 which is bounded on the east by the Tung, on the west by the 
 Yalung Rivers, on the north by Matze and Gaishechia, and 
 on the south by the Huang Lama's district, whose headquarters 
 are at Mih, a ten days' journey south. 
 
 We called to see Ming-chen Tussii, but unfortunately he 
 was not at home. We entered a large compound surrounded 
 by a high stone wall, enclosing lofty, semi-Chinese buildings, 
 with sloping roofs and covered eaves. The roof was decorated 
 by several gilded pinnacles. 
 
 The poor-looking residence of the Sub-prefect, who also 
 fills the position of commissary, is close by, but looks small 
 and insignificant in comparison. 
 
 The Tussu has been pohtely asked to remove to his summer 
 residence, which lies ten miles to the south-west, as his city 
 abode will be required by the Warden of the Marches. This 
 may be only a temporary arrangement, but the Chinese policy 
 is an aggressive one, and the day is not far distant when they 
 may be able to dispose of the services of the Prince of Chala, 
 though his residence may prove useful for housing the Chinese 
 officials, his successors. At present this once powerful Tussu 
 is only a tool in the hands of the Chinese. He is useful to 
 them in securing transport for their mihtary suppHes. His 
 people are groaning under the heavy burden thus imposed 
 on them, for hundreds of animals are required daily to forward 
 the supplies and ammunition to the troops which are scattered 
 along the frontier. 
 
 We must now return and have a peep into the monastery 
 which is close by. We entered a large room and were received 
 by the secretary. After tea and refreshments he led us to the 
 general assembly room, from the gallery of which we had a 
 fine view of the service that was being conducted. On an 
 elevated seat, on which was a silk cushion, sat a lad of about 
 sixteen years. He was an incarnation of Buddha. In two rows 
 down the centre of the large room about fifty lamas sat, all 
 
 (11243) 227 Q 2 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 with bells and dorgies (thunderbolts) in their hands, which 
 they waved about and kept time to the weird chant. Candles 
 and butter lamps burned on the altar, causing a most peculiar 
 light and effect as we looked down on the worshippers, some 
 of them apparently most devout, while some of the younger 
 members of the party were quite frivolous and inattentive. 
 We were careful not to attract their attention that we might 
 see tiie ceremony under ordinary circumstances. 
 
 However, we must now go back to the gochuangs and see 
 what is going on there before we take our departure. I have 
 in a former chapter explained that a gochuang is a kind of 
 guildhall, where the members or friends of a clan lodge. 
 
 In Tachienlu there are many of these, and the people coming 
 from the interior always put up in their own guild, and through 
 the managers of these guilds they buy their tea or other 
 articles of import to Tibet. The articles brought from the 
 interior for the most part also go through the hands of these 
 indispensable gochuang managers. In other words, they act 
 as the middlemen between the Chinese merchant and the 
 Tibetan trader from the interior. It is only by remaining in 
 these gochuangs for some days that one gets some idea of the 
 business that goes on in such a place, for from the street 
 nothing can be seen of what is going on inside these enclosures. 
 
 We said good-bye to Tachienlu friends and continued our 
 journey, following the main tea road as far as Wassukou. 
 
 The river was a seething torrent all the way, and falls 
 almost 3,000 feet in six li (fifteen miles). In several places we 
 were marching right in the spray, that was dashed far over our 
 heads, as the water beat its surf in white foam against the 
 boulders. Very little cultivation was to be seen after passing 
 two miles below Tachienlu. About some of the houses by the 
 roadside a small patch of vegetables or tobacco was to be 
 seen, but such cultivation was so limited as to be scarcely 
 worth mentioning. 
 
 228 
 
up the Tung River. 
 
 Wassukou stands on the right bank of the Lu River, just 
 above its junction with the Tung. Here we spent the night. 
 It was quite early when we arrived, so we went down to the 
 river to watch the natives fishing. The system of anghng 
 adopted was one commonly used by the Chinese in swift- 
 running streams, where the fish is caught when passing over 
 the shoals. 
 
 SOME OF THE PEAKS OF THE DABA RANGE. 
 
 The fishing gear consists of a long bamboo rod, with a 
 fixed iron ring at the tip, a reel is attached to the fishing 
 rod, sometimes the line is wound between the thumb and 
 forefinger and over the elbow, t^\■o hooks are attached to the 
 line a few feet apart, and a small lead sinker is made fast 
 about six feet higher up. The line is thrown out into the 
 current, and let run through the iron ring, the current being 
 swift the line is carried away, then drawn up over the rapid 
 
 229 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 again. The hooks catch in the side of a fish that is struggling 
 to get up the rapid, and in this way large fish are sometimes 
 caught, but it requires a lot of practice and patience to be at 
 all successful. I have seen fish 7 to 8 lbs. landed in this way, 
 but I have also on other occasions watched the fishermen 
 work away for an hour and never get a fish . 
 
 Near Wassukou we met the Sub-prefect, who was out 
 examining the road that was undergoing repairs before 
 Chaoerhfung, the new Warden of the Marches, should arrive. 
 The change was quite noticeable between Tachienlu and this 
 point, but it would not be very lasting, for a lot of loose earth 
 was placed over the rough places, which a good shower of rain 
 would wash away. 
 
 In many places boulders which had been washed down 
 and almost blocked the road were removed, and in other places 
 they were immovable. The road was built up with stones 
 so as to allow chairs and mules to pass without any difficulty. 
 Two thousand men were reported to be at work on the section 
 controlled from Tachienlu. 
 
 From \\'assukou we passed over a chain bridge spanning the 
 Lu River. This bridge was built of thirteen chains, the links 
 of which were about twelve inches long, made of three-quarter 
 inch iron. These chains were built into stone masonry, 
 and made tight by means of primitive windlasses, one to each 
 chain, and turned by inserting an iron crowbar into holes 
 bored in the log. When the chains were jacked tight, the 
 windlasses were built over with masonry. It was a very 
 good bridge, but there was a deal of vibration. 
 
 We travelled up the right bank of the Tung for four miles, 
 where we arrived at Kutze, and took shelter from the pelting 
 rain in the old Tibetan temple. There we found an ex-Lama, 
 who had been turned out of the Lamasery on account of a 
 fight he had had with another brother of his order, so he said, 
 but I should judge there was a more serious charge against 
 
Up the Tuiii;- River. 
 
 liim. The temple was a tine building, tliough the Lama in 
 charge of it only visits it twice a year. Owls and bats have 
 taken possession of the place and roost on the idols. In the 
 daytime the rafters of the temple were literally covered with 
 bats. The lower storey of the temple was kept locked, but 
 from the gallery to which we had access we could see the 
 gilded faces of the huge idols in the dim light. The work 
 about the altars was of fine workmanship and in good condition, 
 
 IlEKH-CAl'HEREKS OK 1,1 ANC llOKON. 
 
 bearing testimony to the fact that at one time there were 
 many devotees in this section of the country. 
 
 The temple was quite unique in its architecture, very 
 different from anything we had seen on the whole journey. 
 It had two round houses built out on the roof like turrets, 
 which gave the place a very fine appearance. 
 
 At Kutze there was a single rope bridge, worked by the 
 ex-Lama, who was certainly an expert at performing on the 
 
 231 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 tight rope ; he tried to persuade us that this was the best 
 place to cross, but we learnt that there was a ferrj' boat some 
 distance higher up the stream at a place called Chiang Tsui 
 (river's lip), and there we found a very frail and small boat in 
 which we managed to get across safely. 
 
 Here the river bears to the west and we went up a small 
 stream and over a mountain to avoid a very difficult gorge, 
 through which it would have been almost impossible for our 
 coolies to have passed, even if we could. We spent the night 
 2,000 feet above the river bed, and had a magnificent view 
 of Paomashan (race horse mountain) to the south of Tachienlu, 
 which is quite 25,000 feet above sea-level. 
 
 The country is picturesque and there is considerable farming 
 carried on along the valley and slopes. The people belong 
 to Yutung, where a chief lives, but he is really subject to the 
 Muping Tussu. 
 
 On passing over the spur, after a climb of 2,000 feet, and 
 a descent of nearly as much, we came down to the bed of the 
 Songlin River, a tributary of the Tung ; this we followed to 
 one of its sources. 
 
 At Heiku we found quite a large Bon or Black monastery, 
 and purchased some of their books. I was sorry not to have 
 a copy in Tibetan to give them, and even the few copies of 
 Chinese Scriptures I had picked up at Tachienlu had all been 
 disposed of. 
 
 The people were most friendly, though no foreigner had 
 ever been here before. We spent the night in a water mill 
 a little farther on, just before entering one of the finest 
 forests I have seen for a long time. The people were busy 
 grinding flour till nearly 12 o'clock, but at last the water was 
 turned off and we ^ent to sleep. 
 
 Next morning we dipped straight into the dense forest. 
 For the first five miles the trees were not very large, but for 
 the next thirty miles they stood as straight as church towers, 
 
 232 
 
Up the Tung River. 
 
 and many of them measured six feet on the stump, or 
 eighteen feet in circumference. I have never seen anything 
 to equal them outside of a British Cohimbia forest. 
 
 Years ago an attempt was made to raft timber down from 
 here, but the rapids were so difficult that there was much 
 loss of life and timber, and the enterprise was abandoned. 
 We spent one night in this forest, and the next day, at 4 p.m., 
 we arrived at the place where we had hoped to meet Meares, 
 for we had sent a runner on ahead to escort him from Hannin, 
 where we expected him to be, and bring him to us at Linkou. 
 He had left for Mongun before the runner arrived, as we were 
 two days later than we had expected. So after waiting two 
 days Brooke went across to Mongun to join Meares, and I 
 went on my way eastward through Muping to Chentu. 
 
 This was a very rough piece of country. The road was 
 built out on bamboo poles, stuck in mortices in the perpen- 
 dicular rock, sometimes sixty feet above the stream. I arrived 
 home on the last day of July, 1908, in the hottest weather 
 that had been known in Sechuan for twenty years. After 
 the cool mountains of Tibet, the heat was enough to prostrate 
 one, for the thermometer rose to 105 in the daytime and 
 never was below 95 at night for quite three weeks. 
 
 233 
 
CHAPTER XVil. 
 
 Two Gold Streams. 
 
 From the junction of the Kermer with the K\van37in River 
 at Damba the united stream flows almost due south to Romi 
 Changku, and is called the Ta Chin or Great Gold Stream. 
 At Changku another large stream, called the Siaochin or 
 Small Gold Stream, joins it, and from that point to where the 
 road leading to Ningyuenfu crosses it the river is known by 
 the name of Tatuho or Great Ferry River. From there to 
 Kiatingfu, where it joins its waters with the Ya and Min 
 Rivers, it is known as the Tung or Brass River. These are 
 all local names, and may be very misleading and confusing 
 to the traveller as well as to the reader — never sure of just 
 what river he is travelHng on, or reading about, unless these 
 points are borne in mind. 
 
 A little information as to how these names came to be used 
 and why they exist may be of interest. 
 
 We will go back to the source of the stream and follow 
 them down again. Kermer is a Tibetan name, given to the 
 branch of this river that rises in the Kermer Mountains or 
 plateau, a range that divides the waters of the Tung from 
 those of the Min River or Fu, as it is called near Songpan. 
 This river runs through the pasture lands and camping 
 grounds of Upper Kermer, Middle Kermer, and Lower Kermer. 
 These three settlements are on the southern slopes of Ngaba 
 State. We now follow the stream down through the States 
 of Somo, Drukagi and Runga, to its junction with the Kwan- 
 yin River. The latter river forms the boundary line between 
 
 234 
 
Two Gold Streams. 
 
 Runga State and Cliosschia. Kwanyin is the largest or 
 longest of the two streams, the true source of the Tachin or 
 Tung River. Some of its tributaries rise in the Baian Tukmu 
 Mountain in tlie Goluk Range, which divides the waters of 
 the Huanghu from those of the Yangtze. It derives its name 
 from a large Lamasery called Kwanyin Cumba, which is built 
 
 A MONASTERY IN BATI ON THE r.REAT r.OI.D RIVER. 
 
 on its banks, about three days' journey north-west of its 
 junction with the Kermer. One of the Kwanyin 's tributaries 
 rises on the northern slopes of the Dabo range, and flows 
 through the centre of Youkoh State. This branch we followed 
 for several days, and crossed it almost at its source. 
 
 We must now return to Chosschia and trace the Tachin 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 River. From the junction of the Kermer to Kwanyin Rivers 
 it runs through a valley which has a rich gold deposit. Great 
 quantities of this precious metal have been washed from the 
 sands along the banks of this stream, and also from deep 
 tunnels sunk into the bank near the river's edge, w^here de- 
 posits of silt have been made sufficient to turn the stream 
 from its former channel. This is the case also with the Siao- 
 chin, and from their gold deposits both of these streams 
 derive their names. 
 
 From Hsu Ching, a strong military outpost and the most 
 important town in the Tachin valley, the Chinese have taken 
 possession of most of the land along the river, though it has 
 cost them a great many lives to do it. In the time of Chen 
 Lung fierce battles w^ere fought in these valleys, and the 
 famous Tussu Solo Wang was subdued. Tw^o small States 
 further south — Bati and Bawang — still retain their here- 
 ditary Tussus, where the old cult of the Bon, a primitive 
 form of native worship, yet exists, and is still the State re- 
 ligion. Buddhism, therefore, has never been fully estab- 
 lished here, but it is steadily making its way. 
 
 In the Siaochin valley there is only one small native State 
 left — Ojen or Wokji — which is still governed by an here- 
 ditary Tussu. The rest of the valley is directly under the 
 Chinese officials stationed at Mongun. They employ native 
 headmen, called respectively Peifu and Chienfu, i.e., the 
 head of lOO families and the head of i,ooo famihes, and these 
 are hereditary offices, and are a remnant of the old Tussu 
 system. This system the Chinese are trying to adopt 
 throughout all this country and Tibet. Chaoerhfeng, the 
 present Warden of the Marches, may be able to accomplish 
 their pohcy, but not, I fear, without a struggle on the part 
 of the tribesmen. 
 
 It was in these valleys that ]\Ieares was travelling 
 while Brooke and myself were on the long journey de- 
 
 236 
 
Two Gold Streams. 
 
 scribed in the former chapters, and here I may summarise 
 his wanderings, as he told us of them. 
 
 It was decided that he should go south with the coohes 
 and their baggage while he went toward the Tibetan frontier, 
 and we hoped to meet at Changku by a certain date. 
 
 He travelled down the fertile valley of the Tachin among 
 cornfields and beautiful scenery. The river's banks were 
 covered with flowers, over which fluttered gaudy butterflies. 
 
 ;roup of tribesmen in the tachin valley. 
 
 while brightly-coloured parrots flashed among the trees, 
 which were abundant along the water's edge. It was even- 
 ing when he reached Hsuching, a Chinese military outpost. 
 The ofacial seemed pleased to see him, and invited him to 
 dinner. 
 
 He found plenty of fruit for sale on the streets. This 
 district is famous for its pears, and later in the year they are 
 even shipped to Chentu, an eighteen to twenty days' journey. 
 
 237 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 Continuing down the river, at noon the next day he came 
 to another coracle ferry. The river was running in high 
 flood and it took some time to cross. 
 
 They were still fourteen miles from their destination, but 
 the ferryman volunteered to take Meares and his interpreter 
 down by river in an hour ; so they struck a bargain. They 
 took their seats in the bottom of the walnut shell, and were 
 off at the speed of an Atlantic liner. The craft bobbed up 
 and down, turned round and round, while the boatman, in 
 a half-kneeling position, endeavoured to steer the raft off 
 the rocks with his small paddle. 
 
 They shot a number of cataracts, and at last came to a 
 place where they heard a tremendous booming and roaring. 
 The boatman worked his boat to the shore, and landed to 
 have a look at the rapid. 
 
 First, he thought it was impossible to shoot this, then he 
 said he would try, and off they went again. When the}- 
 reached the big waves which surged quite ten feet high they 
 were hurled into the air, then twisted round and round in 
 the eddy, until the whole world seemed to be swinging ; next 
 they disappeared into a hollow and the waves broke over 
 each side of their tubhke craft. 
 
 The escort covered his face and cried bitterly, but the 
 boatman worked away with his paddle, and soon they were 
 in smooth water again, continuing their trip to the large 
 monastery just above Tsonghua, where they arrived in three- 
 quarters of an hour from their starting point. 
 
 The writer having made this same journey the year before, 
 can vouch for the sensational experiences of the trip. 
 
 Tsonghua is also a military outpost, but all these officials 
 have both civil and military power. 
 
 From Tsonghua they went over the pass to Mongun, the 
 largest and most important town in this section of the 
 country. There the Brigadier is located, and there it 
 
 238 
 
A (.HINESE MANI'AKIN. 
 
Two Gold Streams. 
 
 was Meares hoped to store their extra baggage and 
 suppHes. 
 
 Soon after leaving Tsonghua they started up a steep moun- 
 tain and toiled on all day in pouring rain, and at 7 p.m. 
 reached a herdsman's hut, where they put up for the night. 
 
 Next morning it was still raining, but they set out to top 
 the pass, which they reached at 11 o'clock. 
 
 Though it was the middle of July the snow was still lying 
 deep on the top, and they all felt the effect of the altitude 
 a good deal. This pass is over 16,000 feet high. Most of the 
 coolies collapsed, and, if they had not been able to hire some 
 medicine diggers to carry the loads over, they would have been 
 stranded. 
 
 On the other side of the mountain they found a large glacial 
 valley covered with grass and decorated with flowers. 
 
 On the upper slopes there was a deep soft carpet of edel- 
 weiss, adorned with a profusion of large red, yellow and blue 
 poppies. Lower down, the slopes were covered with cowslips 
 and other flowers like primroses, besides many other varieties, 
 the names of which were unknown. 
 
 Scattered through the valley was a number of herdsmen's 
 tents, and large droves of yak were grazing on the rich pas- 
 ture. Below this they came to timber land, which is rather 
 a rare thing in this part of the country, where the mountains 
 are for the most part destitute of trees. 
 
 They reached Mongun in a heavy rain, to find the bridge 
 had collapsed, leaving only one log to connect the buttments 
 on either shore. With much difficulty they got across and 
 very soon reached the street, where they found an inn and 
 plenty of Chinese food for sale. 
 
 After paying off all the coolies but three, and stowing the 
 baggage in the ofiicial's yamen, they set out for Changku, 
 a town three hard marches south-west, situated near the 
 junction of the two gold streams. The first day they had 
 
 (U243) 241 K 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 no difficulty, but the river was rising fast, and, for the next 
 two stages, the path for much of the way was submerged by 
 the swirling stream. It was impossible to climb the steep 
 chffs that hemmed in the valley in many places, so there 
 was nothing for it but cautiously to wade through the sub- 
 merged places, a most difficult task for the coohes with their 
 loads. It was rather chilly work, thus wading in the ice cold 
 water, for the melting snow was pouring into it from the 
 surrounding heights. They at last reached Changku, to find 
 a man waiting them with a letter from Brooke, saying 
 that he was going with me still further west, and that we 
 would not be back for some weeks. So Meares filled in the 
 time by visiting the tribes of Bati and Bawang, who live on 
 the west bank of the Tachin, north of Changku. 
 
 Marching up the right bank of the river for ten miles they 
 came to the capital of Bawang, where there is also a large 
 monastery, and the residence of the Chief is near by. 
 
 They were soon invaded by a crowd of truculent, ill-favoured 
 looking Lamas. These they tried to entertain, but they only 
 grew more insolent and began throwing stones, and it was 
 with some difficulty they escaped without a row. 
 
 They marched on to Bati, passing the famous black temple 
 which is the headquarters of the Bonba cult, but were not 
 successful in gaining access to the temple. Mr. Edgar, so 
 far as I know, is the only foreigner who has ever been inside 
 it. The priests would not allow m.e to enter this temple 
 when I passed through last year. Meares reached a small 
 town on the right bank opposite the Tussu's residence, but 
 the river being in high flood it was impossible to cross. While 
 Bonba is the State rehgion, there is also a number of the 
 Red and Yellow cults about, and they have a monastery 
 near the Bonba temple. 
 
 The banks of the river are rich in alluvial gold, but no one 
 is allowed to collect it except the Lamas, and these only for 
 
 242 
 
Two Gold Streams. 
 
 gilding the temple roofs. When they find a large nugget 
 they are supposed to put it back in the earth, that it may 
 increase and multiply. 
 
 From here Meares returned to Mongun by the route 
 just travelled, where he arrived without further adventure, 
 except that on one occasion a huge stone, which got loose 
 
 from the mountains, came tearing down into the valley and 
 crossed the road just in front of them, leaving a line of sparks 
 behind as it bumped on the rocks. 
 
 From Mongun he next set out for Hannin, where he hoped 
 
 to meet us on our way back. Hannin is a pretty little place, 
 
 nestling in the mountains at a height of 10,000 feet. A 
 
 Chenfu or centurion is responsible for the good conduct of 
 
 (1 1243) 243 '^ - 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 the people there. After waiting some days and hearing no 
 word of us he returned to Mongun, where a runner from 
 Mr. Brooke overtook him, saying that he had arrived at Liang- 
 hokou, a place three days south of Mongun. Meares sent 
 back word that he would wait at Mongun, and there Brooke 
 joined him. 
 
 After a few days' rest they continued northward toward 
 Tsakalao ; the weather was very hot, and all the maize fields 
 were burned up for want of rain. 
 
 Everywhere the people were beating drums and cymbals 
 and burning incense, imploring the gods to send rain. If 
 they had only settled down to a few hours' hard work many 
 of the fields could have been irrigated from the streams which 
 flow everywhere down the mountain side. 
 
 All along the river's bank were to be seen the remains of 
 gold diggings which had long since been abandoned. As far as 
 Lianghokou there was a good deal of cultivation. A number 
 of Chinese have emigrated into this valley and have taken native 
 wives. One Chinaman had rented a mill for three shillings 
 a year and married a native wife ; her he sent to the moun- 
 tains to dig medicine, while he ground the corn. They followed 
 the right-hand stream which rises in the Hongchiao Pass, 
 and after camping for a night in a deserted herdsman's hut, 
 they crossed the pass, and lodged in the medicine digger's hut 
 on the eastern slope of the mountain. The day they crossed 
 the pass it was raining, so the view they had hoped for was 
 unobtainable. 
 
 One more day brought them to the road over which we had 
 passed on our way up two months previously. Two more 
 uneventful marches brought them to Tsakalao. As they 
 intended to rest for a few days they pitched their tents on 
 the river's bank some distance from the town. 
 
 Some large walnut trees afforded splendid shade from 
 the hot sun. Here they held a spring cleaning. First, they 
 
 244 
 
Two Gold Streams. 
 
 washed themselves, then all their clothes, and then made 
 the coolies do likewise. This was not an easy matter, for 
 although it was hot in the sun the water was very cold. But 
 one man undertook the task, and the rest all followed like a 
 flock of sheep. 
 
 They went over the pass by which Mearcs had come in 
 when returning from his takin hunt in May, and camped 
 near the salt-licks, hoping they might again meet with a 
 takin, for Meares was anxious to photograph a live one. 
 Brooke spent two days and nights waiting for one of these 
 strange creatures to appear, but vainly ; there were plenty 
 of tracks about, but the creatures that made them were no- 
 where to be found. They changed places and Brooke went 
 on the hunt, while Meares took his bed to the salt-lick and 
 waited to get a photograph. For three days he waited without 
 result. The fourth day the rain fell heavily, and during the 
 night a stream came down under the rock where he was- 
 camped. The rocks were loosened by the heavy rain, and 
 began rolling down the steep hillside. When daylight broke 
 he picked up his wet bed and cleared out, but on reaching the 
 main stream he found that the log which spanned it had been 
 washed away. 
 
 After wading down the side of the torrent for some dis- 
 tance he met Brooke, who had come out to find him, and 
 they were able to fell a tree across the torrent, and thus 
 bridge it. The weather continued wet, so sending one of 
 the hunters back to Tsakalao for mail, they awaited his return. 
 Two days later he arrived with a big bundle on his back, 
 and they rushed at him and seized it, hoping to find the long- 
 expected letters and papers. On tearing open the parcel 
 they found nothing but bacon. This mail had been sent to 
 Colonel Kao for them, but he had had to leave home, and 
 being desirous to keep their letters in safety, had locked them 
 in a box. So after the hunter had partaken of a meal he 
 
 245 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 went back again for the letters, and two days later returned 
 with such a bundle of mail that it took some time to 
 read it. 
 
 After spending several more days in a fruitless hunt after 
 the takin they came on to Chentu, and made preparations 
 for their journey southward through China and India, where 
 they hoped on their way to pass through the Rema and Lisu 
 tribes. 
 
 246 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Mantze Religion and Customs. 
 
 My readers may ask, Who are these Mantze and in what 
 way are they different from the rest of the people of West 
 China ? I must admit that this is a fair question, and so far 
 I have only been telling you about the experiences of in- 
 dividuals who have travelled through their country. 
 
 From scraps of history which I have been able to gather 
 and translate, as well as from reports given by the people 
 themselves, I have come to the conclusion that the people 
 known as the Mantze are emigrants from Gari, a place just 
 north of Siklim, near Camba Dsung. Over 800 years ago 
 they were invited by the Chinese to come over and help them 
 subdue the fierce warlike tribes of the Upper Min or Fu River, 
 who were constantly raiding the Chinese along the plain, 
 and, when pursued, retreated into the mountains out of reach. 
 
 Three thousand of the Gari mountaineers, many of them 
 with their families, came over to help and subdue the raiders ; 
 and were given the promise of free homesteads on the land 
 previously inhabited by the people called Changmin, who 
 were the original inhabitants. Fierce battles were fought, 
 the Gari emigrants attacking from the rear, while the Chinese 
 troops came in from the plain. 
 
 The Changmin were driven back, and the land they occupied 
 was ceded to the strangers who had recently arrived from the 
 head waters of the Brahmaputra, on condition of their being 
 loyal to the Chinese Government. 
 
 Hereditary titles were given them and they were left in 
 247 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 control of these mountainous regions, if only they would check 
 the raids of the aborigines, and render tribute to the Chinese 
 Government as acknowledgment of China's sovereign right 
 over the country. 
 
 For many years there was a fierce struggle carried on between 
 the Changmin and their new enemies, the Mantze orGarionian, 
 who had crowded them back and taken possession of their 
 lands. 
 
 To enable these invaders to withstand the fierce attack 
 of the Changmin, strong stone stockades were built on the 
 spurs of the mountains, where the natural surroundings 
 afforded the greatest amount of protection. We find many 
 of their chaitze or forts built in such positions that very few 
 men would be needed to defend a whole fort. This also 
 accounts for the great towers, like factory chimneys, which 
 we find everywhere, and which were used for two purposes ; 
 firstly as beacons, in case of a sudden raid, when a fire was 
 kindled on the top of these great towers, and friendly villagers 
 would come rushing to their aid ; secondly, for storing their 
 valuables and grain. The cattle were driven into the lower 
 storey and were shut in by great heavy doors. In case of 
 being hard pressed, the inhabitants took their final stand 
 around this tower; and when compelled to take shelter, 
 retreated up a ladder or temporary scaffold that led to the 
 second storey of the tower, and defended that through the 
 turret holes, and by casting stones from the top on their 
 enemies. 
 
 It was this most uncertain and strenuous life that made 
 these people such famous warriors, and accounts for the 
 name given them by the Chinese, " Manpuko," meaning 
 "Cannot be overcome"; Mantze means "One who cannot 
 be overcome," and originally they were thus looked upon by 
 the Chinese. Later the character applied to an unruly tribe, 
 which means " barbarous — unruly," was used in writing of 
 
 248 
 
Mantze Religion and Customs. 
 
 them, and is now used by the Chinese in contempt, and is 
 much resented by the tribesman. But there is no other 
 Chinese term to distinguish them from the Sifan, employed 
 in reference to the ordinary Tibetan of Central and Northern 
 Tibet. 
 
 These people came from the upper slopes of the Brahma- 
 putra, where that form of nature worship known as the Bon 
 or Bonba, also as the Black Cap cult, existed. They were 
 slow to surrender their sceptre to the aggressive Red and 
 Yellow sects of Buddhism. 
 
 To-day, in addition to the large Buddhist monasteries 
 found established in this country, many of which have made 
 a compromise with the Bonba and retain many of their 
 hideous idols in the temples, we find the orthodox Bonba in 
 Bati and Bawang, and also along the Tung River, between 
 Wassukou and Romi Changku. The priests are distinguished 
 by their dress, as shown in the photograph. They turn their 
 prayer wheels the opposite way to the Yellow and Red sects, 
 and their teaching is looked on as not only heterodox, but 
 most wicked ; yet much of it is accepted by the people and 
 winked at by the Lamas. 
 
 The Bonba is a pre-Buddhist, indigenous Pantheon, and 
 the idols of the cult are the most obscene and vulgar con- 
 ceptions of an earthly and foul mind. Yet the people worship 
 before these obscene and even fiendish models, offering them 
 blood and spirits, as well as all the cereals produced on the 
 land ; herbs, tobacco and poisons are especially offered. 
 They insist on the maidens wearing nothing more than a string 
 round their waist, into which is tucked a small lamb skin 
 or tassel made of yarn, which hangs to the knee. 
 
 After their first child is born they may wear skirts, as the 
 gods have purified them. 
 
 The priests of Bati and Bawang States, where the old Bon 
 cult is still the State religion, teach the people that, if they 
 
 249 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 divert from this ancient custom, the gods will grow angry 
 with them, and they will all die off. In winter time they wear 
 a coat woven from yam made of yak hair, which keeps them 
 pretty warm. In the summer months the valley in which 
 they live, in fact the whole valley of the Tachin, is very hot. 
 
 The neighbouring tribes have long since discarded this 
 custom and all the females wear plaited skirts. 
 
 The black priests wear a conical black hat, similar to that 
 of Mother Hubbard, and very similar to the dunce cap the 
 Chinese crier wears when he runs in front of an official chair. 
 There are not a few Bon symbols found in Chinese architecture ; 
 for example, the two poles, with a box, much the shape of a 
 grain measure, affixed about two-thirds up each pole, found 
 in front of every yamen and temple, is a relic of nature worship 
 which is not unknown to the Bonba. 
 
 Buddhism has made many concessions to the Bon, and 
 where it reahy has established itself in the Mantze States, 
 it has done so by yielding substantially to the wishes of the 
 people, and allo\ving them to retain much of their old belief 
 and customs ; though in many of the States Buddhism has 
 really succeeded Bonism, yet it is a Buddhism different from 
 that of most parts of Tibet. Colonel Waddell states in his 
 invaluable book, " Lhasa and its Mysteries " (page 381), 
 that the Black Cap is not unknown, even at Lhasa. He 
 writes : " They have no literature, and utter their sayings 
 orally. The leading oracles in Lhasa are the Nachung and 
 the Karmashar. 
 
 " The chief oracle is attached to the principal State 
 monastery, Dapung. For, notwithstanding its un-Buddhist 
 character, this gross form of heathen sorcery was so deeply 
 rooted in the minds of the people that that crafty ruler, the 
 first Dalai Lama, brought it into the order of the Lamas. In 
 doing this he was doubtless actuated, as were the Roman 
 governors, by the obvious political advantages of having so 
 
 250 
 
Mantze Religion and Customs. 
 
 powerful an instrument for the Government service entirely 
 under the control of the priests. 
 
 " Those who are masters in this art bear the title of ' Chief 
 of the Wizards,' and not only do they perform at stated 
 festive ceremonies, when they dance frantically to quick 
 music in the midst of clouds of incense, burning from large 
 swinging censers, but they also take it upon themselves to 
 frighten the people into paying sums of money to the temples, 
 and the up-keep of the Lamas, who live on the fat of the land, 
 and make the people beheve that they are the only medium 
 through which the gods can be approached." 
 
 Demon possession also forms part of the programme. On one 
 occasion I witnessed a most impressive ceremony while I was 
 waiting for dinner in a village, and everything was perfectly quiet. 
 Suddenly we saw a demon- possessed priest dressed in scarlet 
 robes with a black, conical-shaped hat on his head, and in his 
 hand a sword dyed red in blood. He seemed to throw himself 
 down the hill from the temple, then leap in the air brandishing 
 his sword in a most fantastic manner ; then he seemed to 
 roll down the hill, head over heels, and land on his feet, 
 striking with his sword first in one direction then in another. 
 At last he reached the street and drew near us in a most aimless 
 way. His face was painted red, and he certainly looked 
 hideous enough to have come from the lower regions. He 
 rushed up to the street and stood opposite me for a minute, 
 not more than five paces away ; my men all screamed and 
 some got under the tables, others ran for their lives. The 
 whole street was in an uproar. I made sure he was a Boxer 
 and drew my revolver. When the old lady in whose house 
 I was dining saw it, she threw her arms around me and cried, 
 " Don't shoot, he is my son. The man across the way has 
 borrowed money from the temple some years ago and will 
 not pay it back, and the idol has borrowed my son's body 
 to come down and chastise him ; he will not hurt you " I 
 
 253 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 assured the old lady that she need not fear for me, that so 
 long as he kept his sword at arm's length away he was quite 
 safe, but he had better not come too close. 
 
 After a few leaps in the air he went to the house opposite, 
 where the man who owed the money lived. The poor wretch 
 was so frightened that he lay prostrate on the floor. The 
 would-be demon marched up to him, threatening to smite 
 him with the sword, waving it wildly in the air, while the 
 prostrate man on the floor pleaded for mercy, saying he would 
 surely return the money. The demoniac never spoke through- 
 out the whole performance, and with wild leaps, came out of 
 the house, staggered up the street and then ran up the hill 
 to the temple like a madman. In all my wanderings on the 
 Tibetan border I had never seen anything like it before, my 
 coolies and helpers said they never did either. Judging from 
 the secret the old lady gave me, the whole thing was arranged 
 and the priest just worked himself up to a great state of 
 excitement, which, together with his attire and blood-stained 
 sword, made a most impressive sight. 
 
 Buddhism has gained much ground in many of the fertile 
 valleys, and on prominent hills we find large monasteries 
 containing from 500 to 1,000 Lamas. The one near Miala 
 is the largest I know of in the country, which claims to have 
 about 2,000 names on its register. 
 
 The feudal system that prevails has held the lands in the 
 possession of the lords or Tussus, who have in turn let them 
 out to their people on condition that they render certain 
 services to them as lords, and also hold themselves ready to 
 serve the Chinese Government through the lords, if they should 
 be called out. The lands thus not belonging to the people, 
 they could not borrow money on them, nor will them over to 
 the monasteries, as is done in some parts of Tibet. 
 
 Yet the Lamas have not missed any opportunity to get 
 possession of the people by threats of the evils that will befall 
 
 254 
 
Mantze Religion and Customs. 
 
 them if they do not support the monasteries and the Holy 
 Lamas, who are the only medium between God and man, and 
 they also teach that without a I.ama there is no remission of 
 sins. 
 
 The plan adopted is to have a Lama succeed to the Tussuship ; 
 and, once that is accomplished, the whole State is in the power 
 of the leading Lamasery, and the people have to bump their 
 heads at the feet of a vassal lord and Father Superior ; and at 
 the same time pay their dues in kind to the monastery for the 
 use of their lands, and in fact for the right to exist at all. 
 Once the State falls into the possession of the monastery 
 it rarely or ever emerges from its grasp again ; for while the 
 nearest heir should succeed, whether male or female, it is 
 always arranged by the powers that be that their heir, if he 
 be a male child, should early enter the Lamasery, while if a 
 female, her chances of reaching maturity are very poor indeed. 
 There are ways and means known to these spiritual fathers 
 of a superstitious people of disposing of any obstruction that 
 might come in the way of the coach of State. 
 
 The Lamas aim at keeping the people in ignorance, but 
 some of them are beginning to see what the Lamas want is 
 their money. The worship at the temple is largely per- 
 formed by the women, though some of the men also make 
 pilgrimages to these Lama strongholds to perform their 
 periodical prostrations before the fiendish-looking idols ; but 
 many of them have confessed that they do not believe in the 
 supernatural powers claimed by the Lamas. 
 
 The Lamaseries are the only seats of learning, and the layman 
 who wishes to learn to read must put himself under some priest 
 and study Tibetan writings, the only literature known to 
 them. The Black Cap, or Bon, also use the Tibetan script, 
 but the text of their books is quite different from the orthodox 
 Lamaism. Their books are very difficult to obtain ; I was 
 able to secure one copy only, and that was from a young priest 
 
 255 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 who sold it to me, when his superior was absent. He care- 
 fully bound it up and made me put it in my baggage, saying 
 if his superior got to know of it he would be expelled from the 
 temple. I have not yet been able to satisfy myself as to the 
 teaching contained in this particular scripture of the Bon 
 cult; but a most interesting subject still remains hidden 
 away in closely guarded documents and parchments, some 
 of them written on a paper manufactured from a kind of 
 willow or dogwood, while others are on a preparation of birch 
 bark. 
 
 The Tussus or chiefs intermarry in their own circle. The son 
 of a chief always marries the daughter of another chief, so 
 that they are hopelessly mixed in their relationship. Every 
 Tussu is the brother, cousin, uncle or aunt of all the others, 
 so that the hereditary rights may be passed on from one 
 generation to another. It is a more difficult operation to 
 disentangle some of these mixed-up marriages than to take to 
 pieces and build up again the most complicated Chinese puzzle. 
 
 The young man may have something to say about the 
 choosing of his bride, and often pays a visit to a relation's 
 home to enable him to make his choice, but usually the parents 
 make the choice and all the arrangements. A Tussu may 
 have more than one wife, but the children of the first wife 
 are the legitimate heirs. Should there be no offspring by the 
 first wife, the second wife's children naturally fall heir to the 
 hereditary property and title. 
 
 In the common ranks it is quite different, however ; the young 
 men and women mix freely in the home and in the fields, 
 where they work side by side. They make their own love 
 matches, and then make their intentions known to their 
 parents. Should their parents object to the wedding the 
 couple sometimes elope to a neighbouring State, and by paying 
 a small fee may be pronounced man and wife by the Tussu, 
 and may either become citizens of his State or return to 
 
 256 
 
Mantze Reliction and Customs. 
 
 their own home. A divorce may be had by a small payment 
 to the Tvissu by either party, with the complaint that the 
 pair cannot live happily together. In some States the old Bon 
 custom of marriage is still in force. 
 
 The betrothed goes to the home of her would-be husband, 
 and lives with him for three days, after which she returns 
 to her parent's home, where she remains till her first child 
 is born ; and as a period of two years is allowed, this custom 
 leads to lewdness of the most open form, as girls thus betrothed 
 are practically profligates, and have to sleep on the open 
 fiat roofs of the houses, with a ragged piece of felt rug for a 
 mattress and often only thin covering. 
 
 The greatest possible shame is for a woman to be barren. 
 When her child is born she takes up her position of wife and 
 mother. Presents are exchanged in proportion to the position 
 of the parties concerned, and sometimes a feast is made, 
 but that is often dispensed with in the common ranks. 
 
 Though the standard of morahty set by the Bon is so very 
 low, yet in some parts, where Chinese sobriety has to some 
 extent moulded a new social life, we find things quite different^ 
 and the traveller will see very httle of the custom described 
 above at the present time, except in the Bati and Bawang; 
 States. 
 
 To obtain a true idea of the social hfe of this people in most 
 of these Federal States, you must again come with me on a 
 visit to the home of an hereditary Colonel. I will try and 
 be brief, yet make the visit as comprehensive as possible. 
 
 On arrival we shall be met at the door by the Colonel, and 
 probably his wife, a very pleasant lady of about forty years. 
 Next we shall be ushered with great state througli the main 
 doors into the yard in front of the building, into which all 
 the cattle and horses are driven at night, and round which 
 all the granaries, store houses and stables are located. 
 
 Now we climb up a steep staircase to the second floor, on 
 (11243) 257 s 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 which the reception and guest rooms are situated. Being 
 shown into a large room, we are invited to take a seat around 
 a table and have a chat with the Colonel. A sweet home-made 
 wine will be served to the guests by the Colonel's wife if she 
 is acquainted with her guests or wishes to show them special 
 honour ; or it may be served by her handmaid or slave, who 
 wears her mistress's bracelets and neck ornaments for the 
 occasion. Tea is also provided for those who refuse to take 
 this sweet wine, made of fermented barley. 
 
 The Colonel tells us of his experience while fighting with 
 Heishui, the people of the Black River, under the humped- 
 backed chief we met at Matang, who have been amusing 
 themselves by raiding in the country north of his domains. 
 He had to call out i,ooo of his militia, and go out to crush 
 them. The Colonel is full of what took place on the field and 
 will amuse us for some hours, if we have time to hsten to an 
 account of the guerilla warfare that is carried on between these 
 tribes. But we must confine ourselves to their religion and 
 customs. 
 
 While we are thus seated in the guest room, a tall stately lady 
 and her two daughters, one aged ten and the other thirteen, 
 come gracefully into the room, all wearing beautifully em- 
 broidered skirts and jackets, a beautiful home-woven sash tied 
 around their waists, a blue kerchief on their heads. Their hair 
 is plaited up in two long braids, crossed on the forehead and 
 covered with rings of silver, crusted with coral and turquoise. 
 The daughters are a little shy at first in the presence of 
 strangers, but soon get over this and become quite natural 
 and more hke European children, which is very striking after 
 the affectation and false modesty of the Chinese. 
 
 A little later the servants announce that the meal is ready. 
 Wheaten cake, macaroni, stewed venison and some sweet- 
 meats are served, and more sweet wine for those who care 
 for it is offered by the servants on bent knee. 
 
 25S 
 
Mantze Rclitjion and Customs. 
 
 At sunset the servants return from the fields, driving in 
 the cattle, sheep and horses for the night. 
 
 As each servant comes in they approach the mistress of 
 the house and salute by dropping on one knee, and she has a 
 kind word for each of them, both male and female. When the 
 daughters wish to address their mother, they perform the same 
 graceful act and present their request. 
 
 A HAPl'Y FAMILY. 
 
 We are reminded of customs that prevailed in the Europe 
 of another day. When the children come in from the fields 
 they drop on their knee and salute their parents ; the servants 
 and slaves do the same. They all live under the same roof 
 and eat the same food. There is the greatest friendship and 
 familiarity between the children of the lord and the slaves' 
 children, who all play together, yet they never take liberties 
 or forget their position. 
 
 (1 1243) 259 s 2 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 The servants are free from worries, they Hve in a fine house, 
 have all they want to eat and wear. A httle pocket money is 
 given them on occasion. They have little inclination for 
 city life, and everywhere you hear their merry songs, making 
 the mountains resound. A happier people it would be hard 
 to find than the family we have just visited. 
 
 Their evenings are spent round the big kitchen fire, about 
 which they sit and chat, sing or join in a family dance, as they 
 feel inchned. 
 
 Since we are old friends, we may be specially favoured by 
 an invitation to the family kitchen for an evening's enter- 
 tainment. 
 
 We are led through a corridor up another flight of stairs, 
 into a large hall at the back of the castle. The room is about 
 forty feet long by twenty wide ; down the centre is the fire- 
 place, with three large iron pots set on tripods, and under one 
 of these a good fire is burning, and corn-meal cakes are 
 baking in the ashes. Ranged on shelves round the walls 
 are all kinds of beautiful copper and brass utensils, glittering 
 like gold in the torch hght. 
 
 The slaves open some of the old chests and get out some 
 fancy clothes and masks. They are going to act a play. It 
 is about a man who was jilted by a girl and who ran away 
 into the forest and became a monkey. The chief was out 
 hunting one day and almost shot him, but just discovering 
 in time who he was, brought him back safely to the girl, and 
 they lived happy ever after. 
 
 After the play they will give us a specimen of their native 
 dance. 
 
 The girls all line up at one end of the row and the boys 
 at the other. Some have strings of bells, and the dance is 
 half a play, representing the chief of a neighbouring State 
 coming to ask for help in a war he is tarrying on. The girls 
 say good-bye to their sweethearts, and as they dance round 
 
 260 
 
Mantze Reliijion and Customs. 
 
 and round the fire, they first act a scene of good-bye, and later 
 one of welcome lo the boys on their return. The whole 
 performance is most graceful and attractive. The Colonel's 
 wife is mistress of ceremonies, and her two daughters and 
 daughter-in-law are by far tlie most graceful performers and 
 set the pace. 
 
 This is their way of spending a happy evening and enter- 
 taining their special guests. 
 
 A jar of sweet wine is set in the centre of the room, some 
 long bamboo tubes, a little thicker than a straw, are set in 
 the pot, and the thirsty go forward and take a few sucks 
 through the tube and return to the ranks. 
 
 It is now late, and we must retire, but the performers, 
 though they have worked hard in the field all day, and must 
 turn out at sunrise in the morning, urge us to stay for the 
 next scene, and if we want to see the play finished we may 
 have to wait till daylight. 
 
 The mistress of ceremonies says " Enough," and all is quiet. 
 Refreshments are served from the pot she has been watching 
 with one eye, while with the other she has seen that each one 
 played his or her part properly. 
 
 After a good bowl of vermicelli and venison soup, we retire 
 to our room, which is next to the Colonel's, and sleep soundly 
 until we are awakened early next morning by the merry 
 laugh and tread of the servants as they drive the cattle to the 
 grazing ground, or take their departure to the fields, from v.hich 
 they will not return till sundown. 
 
 It took some time thus to gain the friendship of this people, 
 but now they claim me as one of their own and say, " You 
 are so different from what we had heard about foreigners, you 
 are one with us." Their home is open to the writer and his 
 home is open to them, and they never fail to find it when any 
 of them come to Chentu. 
 
 261 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 The Caves of West China. 
 
 After spending some little time at Chentu, making the neces- 
 sary preparations for a second journey, Messrs. Brooke and 
 Meares started off again with the intention of going south 
 to Ningyuenfu, a city lying between Lololand and the Tibetan 
 frontier. 
 
 From there they intended to make a tour into the country 
 marked on the maps " Independent Lololand," and then 
 turn north-west and travel towards Batang, thence turn 
 south-west in the direction of Rima, and try and cross that 
 country if possible. 
 
 Unfortunately, their interpreter, a man they had engaged 
 from Shanghai, developed heart trouble and had to be sent 
 home, and as they were in this way stranded I let my adopted 
 Chinese boy, who spoke very good English, go with them 
 as interpreter. 
 
 They left Chentu on October 29 in two small boats. The 
 party consisted of Messrs. Brooke and Meares, two inter- 
 preters — i.e., one English-Chinese speaking interpreter and 
 a Chinese-Tibetan speaking one — besides two cooks, seven 
 pietze or back coolies, five ordinar}^ coolies, a headman and 
 three chair-bearers. 
 
 The party with all the baggage filled the two small boats ; 
 but the river was in good condition for a down trip ; and as 
 the boatmen rose early each morning and plied the oars 
 all day, they were carried quickly through the fertile Chentu 
 plains, passing under a number of beautiful old sandstone 
 
 262 
 
The Caves of West China. 
 
 bridges, and the third day arrived at Chiatingfu, where they 
 disembarked, and went overland to Omeishan, the famous 
 "Momit of Pilgrimage" in Western China. 
 
 To Omei come pilgrims from all parts of Szechwan province 
 and also from some of the neighbouring ones. 
 
 Every year during the winter months, thousands of Tibetans 
 make pilgrimages to this sacred mountain to worship at the 
 summit, where Buddha is supposed to cast his halo of glory 
 over them. 
 
 This strange phenomenon has been described by more 
 than one writer, but many people have made the arduous 
 climb to the summit of Mount Omei, and after waiting some 
 days to see the wonderful sight have gone away disappointed. 
 
 But the fortunate have seen the almost miraculous effect of 
 the sun shining on the clouds that rise from the valley, in 
 which their own shadow was reflected and magnified many 
 tens of times, for the glory of Buddha is only to be seen when 
 the sun is in a certain direction, and when there is a mist rising 
 from the valley. To stand thus on a pinnacle ii,ooo feet 
 high, and look over a cliff, with a sheer drop of many hundreds 
 of feet, and see reflected in mid air — arrayed in all the colours 
 of the rainbow— the image of oneself magnified to the size 
 of some tremendous giant, is a sight not to be missed if it 
 comes at all within one's reach, and there is little wonder 
 that the Buddhists have attached a miraculous meaning 
 to the strange appearance. 
 
 The party only spent one night in Chaiting, and set out 
 for the famous mount early next morning. A march of 
 fifteen miles through a most beautiful valley brought them to 
 Omeihsien. On the way they passed the adopted home of 
 the white wax insect, for this wonderful little creature is 
 carried all the way from the Ningyuen Valley in the early 
 spring and deposited on a species of ash tree that is plentiful 
 in this district. On these trees it deposits its wax. which 
 
 263 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 is gathered in the autumn, melted and moulded into cakes 
 of about 10 lbs. each, and exported to all parts of China ; 
 a considerable quantity of it also finds its way to Western 
 countries. This is one of the chief industries of this section 
 of the country. A strong, coarse kind of silk is also raised 
 and manufactured, and these are the two special productions 
 of the valley ; but in so tropical a climate cereals and foliage 
 of all kinds are abundant. 
 
 On reaching the little cit}^ of Omei, which is situated just 
 below the mountain spur, they entered a long suburb on the 
 eastern side. The city itself is little more than a quarter of 
 a mile square, and the whole place is covered with trees and 
 seamed with mountain torrents, which give it an appearance 
 almost park-like. 
 
 The next day they passed up the bed of a torrent and 
 through woods that gradually thickened into forest ; and, 
 passing a number of temples, they reached at last the long 
 stone stairs that lead up the mountain side. 
 
 After climbing for some time they arrived at the Temple of 
 Fuhusze ("Tiger-taming Temple "), where they had breakfast. 
 
 The next chmb was a steep one of about 14,000 feet up, 
 through pine groves intermingled with nanmu trees, some 
 of which had grown to the size of two and a-half feet in 
 diameter, and quite 150 feet in height. This nanmu is a 
 wood much in demand for furniture, and compares favourably 
 with walnut in appearance when polished, but is much softer. 
 
 Most of the buildings on Omei are temples, in which live 
 some 2,000 monks. 
 
 So far they had only climbed a spur on the mountain, and 
 had to descend into a valley again before making the steep 
 climb that leads to the summit. 
 
 The most remarkable piece of work they found on the 
 mountain was a huge brazen elephant in a shrine at Wan- 
 nienssu (Myriad Years Monastery). 
 
 264 
 
The Caves of West Chhr. 
 
 Mr. Meares writes of it thus : — " Here we found an interest- 
 ing building. The style looked Indian. The lower part was 
 a cube thirty feet square, which graduated into a circular 
 dome, all beautifully made in brickwork. 
 
 " Inside the temple was a massive wooden cage, and in the 
 cage a great bronze elephant of Indian workmanship. The 
 
 HE HONG CHIAO PASS. 
 
 elephant had three tusks and bore on its back a figure of 
 Buddha in a lotus blossom, and is supposed to be placed 
 on the spot to which Buddha came when riding on his white 
 elephant." 
 
 Mr. Baber wrote thus of this same piece of workmanship : — 
 " Just below it, in a kind of hostel, is a statue of Buddha 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 twenty-five or more feet high, of a very rude and archaic style, 
 reputed to be the oldest idol on the mountain. It is said to 
 be bronze, but I took it for pure copper. Nothing could be 
 learned of its age. A more artistic work is found in a temple 
 behind Wannienssu, in a separate shrine. Passing under 
 a dark archway we enter a hall, in the middle of which, as 
 soon as we could see through the dim religious light, we ob- 
 served a kind of palisade, and inside it an elephant cast in 
 magnificent bronze or some such composition, nearly as 
 white as silver. The surface is, of course, black with age 
 and the smoke of incense, but I was able to judge the colour of 
 the metal by inspecting a patch which had been worn down 
 by a practice of devotees who rub coins on it, and carry them 
 away as relics. The size of the image is that of a very large 
 elephant, that is to say, some twelve feet high ; its peculiarities 
 are that it is somewhat too bulky, that the trunk seems rather 
 too long, and that it has six tusks, three on each side. With 
 these exceptions, if exceptions can be taken, the modelling 
 is excellent, and a glance shows that the artist must have 
 studied from life, for the folds of skin on various parts of 
 the body and the details of the trunk are rendered with 
 great truth and success, though with a certain conventionalism. 
 The creature has been cast in three sections — the belly an.d 
 legs forming the lower, and back uppermost. The contour 
 of the belly is complete, but on stooping underneath one 
 sees that it is hollow and that the exposed edges are about five 
 inches thick ; in some parts the metal is a great deal thicker. 
 Each of his feet stands on a bronze lotus, and on his back the 
 mammoth bears, in place of a howda, another huge lotus- 
 fiower, in which is enthroned an admirable image of Buddha, 
 cast, I was told, in the same metal, but thickly gilt, his tower of 
 glory towering to a height of thirty-three feet above the floor. 
 Though generally called a Buddha, the image represents 
 P'u-hsien P'u-sa (Samantabhadra Bodhisattva), the saint 
 
 266 
 
The Caves of West China. 
 
 who is the patron — or patroness, for the Chinese credit him 
 with female permutations— of Mount O. The monks told 
 me that P'u-hsien descended upon the mountain in the 
 form of an elephant, and that the casting commemorated 
 the manifestation. But it may more probably bear an 
 allusion to the well-known vision in which the mother of 
 Buddha saw before his birtli a white elephant with six 
 tusks. 
 
 "The fane which encloses the casting is not less curious, being 
 a hollow cube, covered with a hemisphere and roofed with a 
 pyramid. The walls of the cube are twelve feet thick ; the floor 
 of the interior is a square of thirty-three feet on each side. 
 The square becomes modified into a circle as the courses arise, 
 by a transition which is gradual and pleasing but impossible 
 to describe clearly without a knowledge of technical terms. 
 Speaking clumsily, the four walls each terminate in a semi- 
 circular outline, the summit of each semi-circle touching the 
 circumference— i.e., the base of the dome— and the four 
 corners are each filled with three masses of brickwork, the 
 surface outline of the central mass being an oval pointed 
 at both ends, and the two others spherical triangles. The 
 faces of all three are concave. The circumference of the 
 dome is thus evolved from a square without any awkward 
 abruptness, and it is only on trying to describe it geometri- 
 cally that the arrangement begins to appear puzzling. To the 
 eye the architectural process of squaring the circle is perfectly 
 simple. The dome, however, springs from a rim which 
 stands a little back from the circle thus formed, and so gains 
 a few additional feet of diameter and increased hghtness of 
 appearance. The vault is to all appearance a hemisphere, 
 very smoothly and exactly constructed. The whole edifice 
 is of brick except, I think, a few insertions of stone blocks 
 in the lower courses. The walls contain a series of ledges, 
 on which are placed a number of small images said to be of 
 
 267 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 silver. The only light which enters is admitted by the two 
 arched doorways before and behind the elephant. 
 
 "The outside of the shrine cannot be seen, as it is enclosed 
 in a timber building, which entirely covers it. Clambering 
 by means of this envelope on the roof I found, instead of 
 a cupola, a confused heap of brickbats, the debris of a low, 
 four-sided pyramid which seems to have been faced with 
 porcelain tiles. The timber casing was absurdly added by 
 the monks to protect them from the weight of the winter 
 snow, a fair indication that the shrine was not built by 
 Chinese. So solid a building would probably stand fast 
 even if the whole mountain were upset on to it. The pre- 
 caution has gone far to defeat its own purpose, for the wooded 
 husk has been twice burned to ashes, damaging not only 
 the roof but the tusk of the elephant as well. It is said that 
 they were melted off by the intense heat. The present tusks 
 are a feeble restoration built up of plates and bands. 
 
 "With respect to the age and origin of the shrine and its 
 contents, the most authentic information is found in the 
 Ssu-ch'uan Topography to the following effect : — ' The 
 Monastery of " Clear Water P'u-hsien " on Mount Omi, the 
 ancient monastery where the patriarch P'u served Buddha, 
 dates from the Chin dynasty (a.d. 265-313). During the 
 T'ang dynasty Hui-t'ung made his hermitage there. It was 
 named " Clear Water P'u-hsien Monastery " under the Sungs ; 
 Wan-li, of the Mings, changed its style to "Saintly longevity 
 of a myriad years." The " Hall of Great O" stood in front, 
 facing which was the "monument of Illustrious Patriarchs 
 of the South," on the left the "monument of Sylvan Repose." 
 The buildings included a series of seven shrines, the first of 
 which contained a " P'i-lu " (?) the second seven Buddhas, 
 the third a Deva king, the fourth a guardian deity (Chin- 
 kang), and the fifth a great Buddha ; the sixth was a re- 
 volving spiral constructed of brick, enclosing a gilded bronze 
 
 268 
 
The Caves of West China. 
 
 image of P'u-hsien, sixteen feet high, mounted on an elephant. 
 In the beginning of the Sung dynasty (a.d. 960) orders were 
 given to set up a bronze shrine and a bronze image also, more 
 than 100 feet high. Under Wan-li, the Empress-mother 
 directed the shrine of P'u-hsien, namely, the spirally-con- 
 structed edifice, to be carefully and thoroughly restored, and 
 had the elephant gilt.' 
 
 "The existing building is obviously the ' revolving spiral '* 
 here mentioned, and the awkwardness of the term, which 
 conveys no idea to a Chinaman, is another proof that the 
 builders were not Chinese. A name has had to be invented 
 for an exotic form of construction, and there is, so far as I 
 am aware, no other instance of a true dome of brick or 
 masonry in China. It seems safe to conclude that the builders 
 of P'u-hsien shrine, as well as the artist who designed the 
 castings, were Indian Buddhists." 
 
 My friends were told that in another temple there was a 
 mummy of the priest who had made the road up the moun- 
 tain. Never having heard of a mummy in China Mr. Brooke 
 was curious to see it, and by offering a small sum in money 
 he prevailed on the priest in charge to climb on the altar 
 and undress the figure, which turned out to be made in clay 
 and rather badly finished. They reached the top of the 
 mountain in a pouring rain, but got comfortable quarters 
 in a temple on the summit, and were tired enough to sleep 
 soundly amid the periodical banging of drums and clanging 
 of cymbals. 
 
 * In the name "revolving spiral" \vc seem to have another allusion to 
 such structures as are mentioned in the note on page 25. In the present case 
 there may have been some wooden structure, formerly pivoted in the dome, 
 that revolved. The suggestion of Hindu builders does not help to solve the 
 puzzle of the dome. The description of the square building, with pendcn- 
 tives and circular dome, rather suggest work like that of the Indian 
 Mahommedan of the Deccan in the sixteenth century (see Fergusson's 
 " Indian and F^astcrn .Architecture," page 560). 
 
 269 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 When they awoke next morning the whole mountain was 
 covered in a blanket of snow, and as it was cloudy and there 
 was no chance of seeing the Buddha's glory, they inspected the 
 temples, and then hurried down and slept that night four miles 
 from Omeihsien. 
 
 They were very much disappointed in the temples ; many 
 of them had the appearance of having been burnt down and 
 very recently rebuilt, and seemed to have small historical 
 interest. Many of them looked more like broken-down 
 barns than temples. The weather was very wet ; it was not 
 the time of j^ear for pilgrims to visit the sacred shrines, and 
 many of the temples were closed, and this may account to 
 some extent for the impression they received. There is no 
 doubt that in this region there are many historical land- 
 marks, for though the Lolos do not visit this mountain snice 
 it has become the strong tower of Buddhism, yet they claim 
 that their three deities once made their homes there. 
 
 But we must pass to the ancient caves that are found in 
 this part of the country. These are most numerous along 
 the banks of the Tung and Su Rivers, and they are also found 
 in other parts of the country on the sides of the hills ; but 
 usually they are dug out of the sandstone rock along the 
 rivers' banks. And here I will give ■Mr. Meares's descrip- 
 tion of what they saw in the caves : — 
 
 " On our way back to Chiating we stopped for a few days 
 to explore the caves which are situated near the road. 
 
 " We took up our quarters in a little Chinese hut, and hardly 
 had we settled down when a Chinese pedlar came up to us 
 and said, ' Do you remember me ? I am the man who had 
 a pain in the night in the inn at Fupien,' and he was very 
 pleased to meet us again. 
 
 " In the rolling hills of this district thousands of dwellings 
 or tombs have been hewn out in the red sandstone chffs. 
 
 " All these caves are similar in plan, but differ considerably 
 
The Caves of West China. 
 
 in size and ornamentation, doubtless in proportion to the 
 rank and wealth of the owner. Some had only one small 
 
 ■KKKA-COITA PIGMIES. 
 
 entrance running into the face of the chff, while others had 
 large verandahs with three or more caves opening from it. 
 
 271 
 
Sporl and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 " Let us take as an example one of these large caves. 
 
 " Some distance up the face of a cliff of red sandstone 
 (on the face of which some hieroglyphics may still be seen), 
 and approachable only by steps cut in the cliff, large enough 
 to hold the toe of the foot, a large cavern has been hewn out, 
 evidently with the help of a metal instrument, as the marks 
 are still sharp and clear. 
 
 " In the cliff above the cavern a gutter is generally cut to 
 
 shoot off the rain water, and sometimes imaginary animals are 
 
 cut above the doors, evidently the crest of the owner. This 
 
 verandah may be thirty feet long, twelve feet wide and ten feet 
 
 high, and the roof is supported by two large pillars which 
 
 had been left when the rock was cut away ; there is very 
 
 often a large cooking place between these pillars. This 
 
 verandah is cut with square comers, and running round the 
 
 top there is always a pattern, which is the same in almost 
 
 all the caves. This looks very much as if it were built in 
 
 imitation of the beams of a house, and a small model of a 
 
 dwelling which I found in one of the caves had similar work 
 
 on it. Above the central door on both sides of it are often 
 
 carved figures of deer and horses. On the left side of the 
 
 verandah a small cave is sometimes cut, evidently for a dog, 
 
 and in one case I saw a carved stone dog in it. Generally 
 
 these caves open from the main verandah. The one on the 
 
 right is usually about thirty feet long and straight, and was 
 
 evidently intended for servants or animals. These caves 
 
 generally had an outer and an inner doorway, the first a few 
 
 feet from the entrance, the second about twelve feet further in. 
 
 " The caves were about six feet broad and six feet high, and 
 
 sloped gently upwards. The doors were solid buttresses, left 
 
 when the caves were cut, and were about five feet six inches 
 
 high by four feet wide ; in these buttresses were grooves to 
 
 hold doors, and sockets and grooves to hold crossbars. The 
 
 two larger caves had two or three similar doors, 
 
 272 
 
The Caves of West China. 
 
 " About half-way along the larger caves were recesses 
 cut in the walls. On one side was a large trough cut in the 
 solid rock and evidently used for holding water. A small 
 gutter was cut round it to carry off surplus water and the 
 edge was much worn. Below it was a shelf for holding pots. 
 In some of these troughs were round stones which had signs 
 
 TIKF.TAN INTERPRETER COMING OUT OK THE CAVK WHKKE 
 riGMIES WERE OBTAINED. 
 
 ,RkA-COTTA 
 
 of being constantly heated in a lire. On the other side of 
 the cave would be a similar cave, covered with a huge monolith 
 which would take ten men to move, and inside some of these 
 sarcophagi were coffins made of one piece of earthenware, 
 with tight-fitting covers. These coffins were all empty, 
 except for a little mould. Further in were small sockets 
 
 (1 1243) -73 T 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 near the roof, which had evidently bten used for poles to 
 support a curtain, and past this the cave generally opened 
 out into one or two recesses large enough for rooms ; these 
 also had sockets for curtains. 
 
 " At the extreme end of the caves was a small shelf two and 
 a-half feet from the floor, and two or three small cooking places 
 cut out of the sohd rock at a lower level beside it. Near these 
 cooking places were the remains of cooking pots, which fitted 
 the fireplaces. The terra-cotta figures and other remains were 
 generally found on the floor below the small shelf, or in the 
 large recess. They cannot have fallen from the shelf, or they 
 would have been broken into a thousand pieces. 
 
 "Some of the caves are quite open and visible; others 
 have been silted up by wash from the hills, and it was by 
 digging into these we found most of the things, while others 
 had been flooded and the figures were buried in the mud. 
 Other caves had small openings much worn, which led into 
 further caves at lower levels, and one could emerge again 
 into dayhght some distance from the point of entrance ; 
 while some of them were quite dry, and the figures could be 
 seen just as they were left by the original inhabitants. In 
 one case we found portions of a life-sized head with the cheeks 
 painted red, and a black moustache and side whiskers, and, 
 as may be seen from the photographs, the types are entirely 
 different from the Chinese or aborigines of the present time. 
 
 " The modelhng of the animals is much more artistic and 
 correct than any modern Chinese work. 
 
 " As we were pushed for time we could only spend three 
 days exploring the caves ; so much still remains to be done. 
 
 " The authorities at the British Museum have no clue as 
 to who these people were, but as some of the things are 
 almost identical with objects found in the ancient Japanese 
 dolmans, it is possible that these people emigrated to Japan 
 at some remote period." 
 
 274 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Chiating to Ningyuenfu. 
 
 After finishing their investigations in the caves our friends 
 travelled north-west along the border of the Ya to Yacliowfn. 
 The Ya is a very shallow and fast-flowing river, and on this 
 account the Chinese have constructed some very ingenious 
 rafts by which they navigate it, and carry on them quite 
 large cargoes, both up the river and down as far as Yachowfu. 
 These rafts are made of giant bamboos, which are from four to 
 six inches in diameter at the thick end. They taper off very 
 gradually, and some of these poles reach a length of seventy to 
 eighty feet. The bamboos are lashed together side by side; 
 each pole is heated and turned up in front, and when the 
 rafts are completed they look like giant Canadian toboggans, 
 being about eighty feet long by lif::een feet broad. 
 
 As these bamboos are hollow and full of air, a raft will 
 carry several thousand pounds, and only draw a few inches of 
 water. They are quite flexible, and glide over the rapids and 
 even over shallows without injury. 
 
 The principal traffic on the down journey is wool, hides 
 and deer horns, which find their way from Tibet: also iron, 
 copper, lead and coal, all of which are mined in considt>rablo 
 quantities in the neighbourhood of Yachow, and beyond. 
 
 When returning, they carry wine, sugar, cotton and jMcce- 
 goods, which are the chief articles of import. 
 
 For anyone who is fond of duck shooting, a gooJ plan is 
 to go to the Yachow and there hire a raft to Chiating. These 
 rafts are not the most comfortable looking crafts, as the only 
 (11243) ^75 ' - 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 shelter afforded is a bamboo mat hut, usually erected near 
 the centre of the raft. A few boards are elevated about a 
 
 RAFT ON THE YA RIVER ON" \VHICH MR. BROOKE AND MR. MEAKES 
 TOL'RNEYED. 
 
 foot above the bamboo to keep one"s feet out of the water, 
 though in crossing some of the rapids the spray will still insist 
 on coming through. Yet even ordinary passengers, who are 
 
 276 
 
Chiatiiig to Nins^yuenfu. 
 
 in a hurry to reach Chiating or some other port down the 
 stream, do not hesitate to take passages on these rafts, and 
 even the missionary ladies often take advantage of this quick 
 and easy mode of travel ; so that the sportsman who is anxious 
 to see thousands of mallard, widgeon, divers and almost all 
 kinds of water fowl within close range, will not mind a wet 
 foot, or even being dumped overboard, if he can secure 85 
 to 100 duck during the trip of a day and a-half . 
 
 I know of one cool-headed missionary, who had taken 
 passage on one of these giant toboggans, and was standing 
 outside drinking a cup of coffee when the raft gave a lurch, 
 a swirl, and he was sent overboard to partake of a cold bath. 
 But managing to catch hold of the raft with one hand and 
 keep his head above water— for it was in a place where the 
 water was deep, just below a rapid — he contrived to hold on 
 to his cup of coffee in the other hand, and, when helped on to 
 the raft again, continued sipping his coffee as though nothing 
 had happened. 
 
 All along the river fishermen may be seen at work with 
 cormorants. They also fish with nets, and frequently catch 
 the giant salamander, a huge newt, which often reaches a 
 length of ten feet, and weighs from 60 to 100 lbs. 
 
 A peculiar fish, called by the Chinese wa-wa-u ("childfish") 
 is sometimes secured near Yachow. It is reported to have 
 arms, and to come out on sunny days and lie on the rocks 
 in the middle of the stream sunning itself. I heard of this 
 fish first in the autumn of 1902, but thinking it was only a 
 Chinese tale, paid but little attention to it. My boy, who 
 was with Messrs. Brooke and Meares as interpreter, mentioned 
 it to them, and they tried to secure one but were not successful. 
 They spoke of it to Mr. Openshaw, the American missionary 
 at Yachow, who, though he had lived there for many years, 
 had never heard of the " childfish." His cook, however, 
 being consulted, declared that there was such a lish and 
 
 277 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 bought one next day in the market. Mr. Qpenshaw put it 
 in alcohol ; I have not heard what became of this specimen, 
 and was not fortunate enough to see one myself. 
 
 Yachow is a busy thriving town, beautifull}^ situated on 
 the banks of the Ya, and hemmed in by high mountains on 
 three sides. 
 
 It is a great centre of the Tibetan tea industry. Tea grows 
 on all the mountains in the neighbourhood and is carried 
 by coolies into Yachow, where it is dried, prepared and packed 
 in long bamboo baskets for the Tibetan market. 
 
 While at Yachow our friends engaged a raft and started 
 out on a duck hunt. It was a lovely morning and the raft 
 floated quickly down the river. Ducks were not very plentiful 
 near the city, but they picked up quite a number. At one 
 place they shot two teal, one of which was only wounded 
 and floated down in mid-stream. The raftsmen rowed hard, 
 endeavouring to overtake it before it reached an island which 
 divided the river. They got near enough to get another 
 shot at the teal, but it was too late to pull out of the cataract. 
 A terrible current was whirling them into its fierce jaws, 
 the waters leaped over the rapid and piled up against, the 
 rocky banks. Just below and in their course, great black, 
 jagged spikes split the green waters into rushing, tearing 
 streams of white foam. The raftsmen were frightened, but 
 did not lose their heads. The raft shot over the rapid like an 
 arrow. The men at the bow and stern oars now began rowing 
 furiously, swerving the bow of the raft up into slack water, so 
 that the stern swung round, just shaving the rocks. They 
 swept stern-first for a few seconds and again the raft swung 
 round, before they took the final plunge, bow on. The waves 
 splashed up to their waists, and the raft wriggled over the 
 sunken boulders like a snake. 
 
 They continued down the river for about ten miles, then 
 walked back to Yachow. On the way they came across some 
 
 278 
 
Chiatlng- to Ningyuenfu. 
 
 snipe near a village, and after shooting several, the villagers 
 collected in hundreds to watch the sport, and as it was im- 
 
 liKiNGiNt; KAW ii;a to ke packkd at yachow. 
 
 possible to convince them that .what hurt snipe would also 
 hurt them, the sportsmen had to give it up and return to 
 Yachow. 
 
 279 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes, 
 
 They continued their journey towards Ningyuenfu, but 
 before they had gone very far it began to rain and so continued 
 all day. The continuous line of coolies marching along this 
 road soon tramped it into thin mortar, and the round 
 boulders, with which it was paved, were so slippery that it 
 was almost impossible to keep one's feet. Hundreds of coolies 
 were passed, staggering under their heavy burdens of iron, 
 lead, copper, fuller's earth, coal and raw tea, all of them 
 obtained from the surrounding mountains. 
 
 It was difficult enough to tramp this road in dry weather 
 with such loads as these men carry, but with the road in this 
 condition it is quite dangerous, and even as much as an 
 ordinary pedestrian empty-handed can do to travel on. In 
 places there were pools of blood, sho\\dng where some un- 
 fortunate wretch had fallen under his burden and cut himself 
 on the sharp stones. 
 
 Along this road there are wayside inns every tw^o or three 
 miles for the accommodation of the tea coolies, who only 
 travel from seven to ten miles per day. This road has been 
 recently repaired for Chaoerhfung's troops and supplies to 
 pass over, but in rainy weather the fresh clay that had been 
 placed to fill in the holes between the boulders only added 
 to the difficulty of travelling it. 
 
 The second day they reached the foot of Tahsiangling, 
 and stopped for the night at Huangnipu, a street with about 
 100 families, where travellers generally rest before ascending 
 the mountains, as the accommodation at the inns on the way 
 up is very poor indeed. 
 
 Half-way up the mountain they found it covered with snow 
 and the path very slippery, being coated with ice ; so, 
 strapping iron plates with sharp spikes on the soles of their 
 boots, they struggled on through the bitterly cold wind that 
 was blowing, and were rewarded on reaching the top by a 
 magnificent view of the Tibetan mountains, which from this- 
 
 280 
 
Chiating to NIngyuenfu. 
 
 pass opens out before the eyes of the traveller if it happens 
 to be fine weather when the top is reached. 
 
 On the east slope of the mountain it is nearly always raining 
 or snowing and the fohage is very dense. Near the top vegeta- 
 tion almost ceases, except for a very coarse grass found on the 
 slopes. On looking westward there is scarcely a tree to be 
 seen. The view that opens before the observer is expansive. 
 The cliffs are composed of red sandstone, and even the cul- 
 tivated fields have a reddish tint as far as the eye can see. 
 
 Away in the distance, contrasted in the blue horizon, the 
 white-tipped mountains and the eternal snows of Tibet fill in 
 the background. 
 
 The west side of Tahsianghng is covered with a coarse grass, 
 intermingled with jagged chffs and deep cut gullies, through 
 which small streamlets trickle. 
 
 Passing down from the summit the first two miles are quite 
 gradual, but beyond that the descent is very steep, and after 
 a drop of 3,400 feet, the travellers found themselves in the 
 little town of Chingchihsien. 
 
 This is a most insignificant httle town, nestling near the foot 
 of the mountain, and the only thing that it is noted for is its 
 place at the junction of the Ningyuen and Tachienlu roads, 
 though most of the Tachienlu traffic does not come into the 
 city, but takes a short cut across the mountain, thus lessening 
 the distance by about three miles of rough road. 
 
 All the way up the pass they overtook hundreds of coolies 
 wending their way slowly up the mountain, laden with great 
 loads of tea. Fourteen bundles is about the ordinary load, 
 and each bundle weighs from 14 to 18 catties, and, if we take 
 16 catties as the average weight of a bundle, we find that 
 each load will weigh 224 catties (or 298 lbs.). On some loads 
 I have seen eighteen packets, which would be equal to 384 lbs., 
 and it is a common thing to see boys of from fourteen to eighteen 
 years and sometimes girls, too, carrying loads of 150 lbs., toiling 
 
 28 1 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 wearily up the pass. These loads are carried all the way to 
 Tachienlu, a distance of not more than sixty miles as the crow 
 flies, but quite 140 miles by the main road, which also 
 makes a V on the map, and passes over two high mountains, 
 both of them approaching 10,000 feet. Near the top they 
 
 CARRYING 
 
 i\KK IHE DAII^IWGIIN 1' \^^ I Ok I ill 
 WEIGHT CARRIED 200 lO 4OO TOUM)-, n.R HEAD. 
 
 IRADE; AVERAG 
 
 met coolies with loads of parrots on frames, and others with 
 packs of hunting dogs, coming from the Ningyuenfu Valley. 
 The parrots were on their way to Chentu, and other cities in 
 Szechwan, where there is a good market for them, and the 
 dogs are for the Wassu and Muping hunters. 
 
 These little hunting terriers are bred by the Lolos, and a 
 282 
 
Chiating to Ningyuenfu. 
 
 good one brings a very handsome price for China. I have 
 known one to sell for as much as three guineas. 
 
 All the way up on the slope to the south-east of the town 
 and about half-a-mile distant, is the old site of the Lolo 
 capit d. Nothing is now left to mark the place but a few 
 trees and some stone heaps. Few of the inhabitants even 
 know that it was once a Lolo stronghold. At the present 
 time there are no Lolos located north of the Tung River, at 
 least not in the Chingchi Valley. 
 
 From Cliingchihsien the road runs south through a fertile 
 valley well irrigated from the numerous streams that rush 
 down the mountain sides. Fruit of all kinds is plentiful, 
 and oranges and pears are a speciality. Rice is grown on the 
 terraced plots in the valleys, and other cereals, such as peas, 
 wheat, barley, oats and buckwheat, are grown on the slopes ; 
 but the whole aspect of the country is most barren, especially 
 in the winter months ; not a tree adorns the hillsides, except 
 for an occasional willow grown by the side of an irrigation 
 ditch, or near some of the villages, where they have been 
 planted and cared for by individuals. 
 
 The demarkation of the natural vegetation and tree pro- 
 ducing country is noticeable. On the west side of the pass 
 it is sunshine for most of the year, but the prospect is bleak 
 and barren, with scarcely a tree to adorn the hillsides, while 
 just a few miles to the east the sun is only seen for a few weeks 
 in the year, nothing but rain and mist all the time ; and there 
 are places where the dividing line is quite abrupt, and a few 
 paces will carry one from the rank foliage and mist, into the 
 treeless grass lands and bright sunshine. 
 
 They spent the night at Fuling and the next morning crossed 
 the Tung at the Tatu, or great ferry, from which this reach 
 of the river derives its name of Tatuho (a great ferry river). 
 It was on the banks of this river, and only a few miles further 
 up that that Shih Takai, the leader of the Taiping rebellion 
 
 283 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 was defeated and 7,000 or 8,000 of his followers were killed 
 on the field, while he and a few hundred of his men w^ere 
 captured. 
 
 The credit of crushing this conquering army that was 
 devastating China and defeating the Imperial troops at every 
 point of contact is due to the united efforts of the Lolo and 
 Sifan tribes, who know their country, and knew how to beguile 
 their enemies into a position, where there was no possible 
 way of escape. When the rebel army was in the deep ravine 
 which leads to the ferry at Tzetati, the Lolo and Sifan tribes 
 surrounded them, and by cutting off the supphes of this great 
 army, soon reduced them to the point of starvation. So 
 steep were the sides of this gorge into which they were penned, 
 that it enabled the Lolos to roll down stones and tree trunks 
 and pour poisonous arrows on a penned-up, helpless mass 
 of humanity. Though the Chinese General took much credit 
 to himself for this crushing victory, he did little more than 
 stand with his men on the opposite bank of the Tung, and 
 destroy any raft or craft that was unfortunate enough to 
 reach that bank. It was the Lolos and Sifans that surrounded 
 them and drove them to their doom. 
 
 On crossing the ferr^^ of Tatu, the traveller plunges into 
 a narrow glen between two treeless hills. The valley is full 
 of great boulders, washed down from the mountain side by the 
 freshets, and among these the road winds about in its zigzag 
 course up the mountain. 
 
 The fields and hillsides were cultivated even on the steep slopes, 
 but the grain was all harvested, and the aspect was very bleak. 
 
 After chmbing to a height of 2,000 feet above the Tung, 
 in a distance of four miles, the road immediately drops 1,000 
 feet, zigzagging its way down the steep mountain side until 
 it reaches a mountain torrent, which disappears into a wild 
 gorge to the west, cutting its way through limestone rock 
 and joining the Tung about ten miles above the ferry. 
 
 284 
 
Chiating to Ningyuenfu. 
 
 The road follows up the left bank of this stream. A few 
 ricefields are seen near the river's edge, and a little cultiva- 
 tion on the hillsides, but there does not appear to be much 
 to attract the farmer, yet all along the stream watermills 
 are kept turning, which shows there must be grain to grind. 
 
 The mill wheel lies horizontally, and the water is admitted 
 by a small water race and strikes the fans of the wheel which 
 
 r.AMHOO RAK 
 
 offers its face to the current. The millstone is attached to 
 the other end of the wooden shaft, and revolves on the same 
 axis as the water wheel. The road continues on through the 
 valley, and is made dangerous by falHng rocks, which come 
 rolling down from the heights, when loosened b\^ the rain, 
 or on the slightest other provocation. Often one of these 
 boulders como rolling down the steep mountain side and 
 
 2S; 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 pass through a caravan of mules, picking one or two out of 
 the pack, passing on as though it had met with no obstruction 
 until it lands in the torrent bed far beneath the road or path. 
 After passing the village of Tawan (great turn) the mountains 
 close in upon the stream leaving barely sufficient space for 
 a narrow path. In places the rock actually overhangs the 
 road so that one lias to bow the head if riding, in order not 
 to be pulled off. The cliffs rise to a height of about 200 feet, 
 almost perpendicular or slightly overhanging, then fall away 
 and continue to rise to the height of 1,000 feet. Wild tales 
 are told of the attacks on caravans and lonely travellers by 
 the Lolos in this gorge, and the place is certainly weird enough 
 to make one feel that an enemy might be lurking anywhere 
 along the march. 
 
 The stories told me by my escort, when I travelled through 
 this wild place, were enough to make the hair stand on a timid 
 man's head, but I saw no one more ugly than my informants 
 and certainh' none that looked more like outlaws, for the 
 escort that was given me at Chingchihsien contained the 
 most dilapidated specimens I have seen for a long time. 
 However, as my journey was three weeks later, Brooke and 
 Meares might have had a better lot. 
 
 On emerging from the gorge a plateau is entered, the highest 
 point of which is the watershed, 7,200 feet, lying between 
 the Tung and a small river, locally called Nga Rung, which 
 is a Tibetan name. This river rises in the Siao Hsiang- 
 ling, flows past Yueh Hsiting, and enters a gorge which 
 opens out of the Yueh Hsi valley from where it flows in 
 a north-easterly direction until it enters tlie Tung. It 
 forms the border between independent Lololand and the 
 semi-Chinese Lolo country through which the high road 
 ])asses. 
 
 Along the road there is a mixed population of Lolos, Tibetans 
 and Chinese. Most of the black-blood Lolos have left their 
 
 2S6 
 
Chiating to Ningyuenfu. 
 
 former estates this side of the Ngariing River to their serfs, 
 who have become Chinese subjects. These semi-subjected 
 Lolos have a nominal chief, who is supposed to be a pure 
 black blood, but he is not recognised by the chiefs in inde- 
 pendent Lololand, and he really holds his position by appoint- 
 ment from the Chinese Government. 
 
 All along the road the Chinese have established block- 
 houses, which are guarded by militia composed both of Chinese 
 and subjected Lolos, but in spite of these guards, robberies 
 are committed frequently along the main trade routes, and it 
 is not safe to be out after nightfall. 
 
 Two days' march over this plateau brings the traveller 
 to the valley of Yueh Hsi, in which is the Chinese city of 
 Yueh Hsiting, quite an important centre, as from this place 
 a large section of country is governed. 
 
 In a kind of prison or hostel in connection with the Yamen 
 are to be seen a number of hostages who may be seen also 
 in our photographs. These hostages come from various parts 
 along the border, and are representative leaders or chiefs, 
 who take turns of imprisonment to go pledge for the good 
 conduct of their tribes. These chiefs are paid a nominal sum 
 by the Chinese Government for thus serving a period in 
 durance, and after serving a term of three months they are 
 allowed to be relieved by other representative men of their 
 tribes. This is the only hold the Chinese have on the tribes 
 from the interior of Lololand. 
 
 After leaving Yueh Hsi the road continues up the left bank 
 of the stream and leads over the Siao Hsiangling with a ver}- 
 steep ascent. Every five li (or mile and a quarter) there is a 
 guard house, and two or three soldiers escort the foreigner 
 from post to post. The road over the pass runs through 
 very wild country, and it would be an easy matter for the 
 Lolos to surprise travellers if it were not for the sharp look-out 
 kept by the scouts posted all along the road. Even in spite 
 
 (1 1243) 2S9 I- 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 of this vigilance, parties are often surprised and individuals 
 carried off to be sold as slaves. 
 
 The day I came over I was benighted near the top, my 
 coolies made such slow time ascending the mountain. 
 
 When I arrived at Chupanying where there was a centurion 
 stationed in charge of lOO soldiers, he insisted that I should 
 stop the night with him, as it was impossible to do the five 
 miles that separated us from the usual stopping place. He 
 lived in a tiny httle guard house, but quite comfortably. 
 Just as we were sitting down to supper, which he provided, 
 there was a great shout which rang through the mountains, 
 then three shots were fired. At this time there were only 
 five men in camp, the rest were posted on duty along the 
 road. In a moment all five were armed with their Mausers 
 and fixed bayonets, and a cartridge belt buckled round their 
 waist. They rushed out into the darkness, and Mr. Li, the 
 centurion, seized his broad sword and went with them. I 
 wanted to join, but to this he would not consent, and warned 
 me that I must remain inside. 
 
 Calls were exchanged all along the line, and word arrived 
 that it was only a false alarm given by one of the pickets 
 near the top of the pass. However, night and day they are 
 kept on the alert during the winter months, for it is in the 
 winter when the Lolos are not busy in their fields that they 
 do most of their pillaging. 
 
 All the way to Loku a good number of Lolos are to be 
 seen along the road, but they are friendly and are either 
 bringing faggots to the small towns and military camps, or are 
 returning empty after delivering their burdens. 
 
 Just before reaching Loku, the road leads through the 
 famous gorge where the Taiping robbers were blocked and 
 forced to turn up the jNIienning Valley, and so were trapped 
 to their doom. 
 
 The road is cut out of the side of the rock and is just wide 
 290 
 
Chiatinii- to Nin'>vucnfu. 
 
 enough for two animals to pass. A block house is placed 
 at a commanding point, great doors are momited so that 
 it is impossible to pass up or down when these are closed, 
 and a very small force could defend the position. 
 
 From Loku the road runs down the left bank of the Anning 
 River through a fertile valley inhabited by the Chinese. 
 
 
 lAWKING I'AKROTS FROM THE NINGYUENI'U VALLEY TO CIIKNTU ; l-HOTOGRAPH TAKEN 
 ON VASHINGLIX, I0,000 I-EEl" ABONE SEA-LEVEL. 
 
 The climate is ideal, but the unfortunate people always 
 have the fear of being surprised some night by their Lolo 
 neighbours. 
 
 Ningyuenfu is a snug little town built on the side of a 
 beautiful lake, the outlet of which runs into the Anning 
 River. 
 
 The city has quite a history, but no records are to be found 
 (1 1243) 291 I' 2 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 in the archives of the Yamen there ; they have all been sent 
 to Yachow and Chentu for safe keeping. The present city wall 
 is only eighty years old. The old city having been destroyed 
 b}^ an earthquake, a report has it that it stood where the 
 present lake now is. 
 
 That there was a terrific shaking here is quite evident from 
 the huge clyptomeria trees that are still being dug out of the 
 mountain sides, where they have been buried for a loo years at 
 least. Some of these trees are three and four feet in diameter, 
 and a coffin made from a good tree is worth from 300 to 500 
 taels (or from £40 to £60), which is a lot of money to a China- 
 man, and of course only the wealthy families can afford it. 
 
 The country at the present time is very bleak, and only 
 near the waterways or on an occasional hill small trees are 
 to be found, and there is very little shrubber\^ about. Fuel 
 is very expensive, as it has to be carried a long way. 
 
 On arriving at Ningyuenfu Messrs. Brooke and Meares had 
 ■some difficulty in finding a respectable inn, but they met the 
 Rev. Mr. Rudd, an American missionary, who invited them 
 to the Mission Station. The Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Wehwood, 
 who were then in charge of the station and of the work in 
 the district, were away at the time visiting out-stations, but 
 Mr, Rudd made it very pleasant for our travellers. 
 
 Some days were spent in exploring the lake and city and in 
 trying to find out something about the Lolos before Mr. Brooke 
 undertook his last — and fatal — journey. 
 
 292 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Independent Lololand, 
 
 Strange to say, almost in the heart of the great province 
 of Sechwan hes a small section of country some 70 miles 
 wide by 120 miles long, which is probably one of the few 
 remaining tracks of country which still retains its indepen- 
 dence and is still unexplored — even the latest intelligence 
 maps mark it a blank. 
 
 Little is known about it except that a great mountain 
 range runs through it from north to south, cutting it almost 
 in two halves The Chinese border towns on the west are 
 HuiU Chow, Ningyuenfu, Lichow, Loku, ]Mienshan, and Yueh 
 Hsi ; on the north Opien Ting ; on the east Mapien Ting 
 and Luijio ; and on the south by the Yangtze River. 
 
 The Nosu — i.e., black bloods — who are better known by 
 the Chinese name Lolo, are a fierce warlike people who claim 
 to have in their veins the blue— locally, black— blood, which 
 their name indicates. Their forefathers came from Hunan 
 and played no small part in the early history of the Chinese 
 Empire. They have, however, been gradually surrounded 
 and hemmed in by the Chinese, until nowadays we find them 
 confined to the track of country above mentioned. 
 
 Although thus surrounded they prove a veritable thorn 
 in the flesh to the Chinese who have to five near them, as 
 well as to the Chinese Government, and they have been the 
 means of disgracing more officials and showing up the weak- 
 ness and rottenness of Chinese officialdom more than all the 
 Censors in the kingdom. 
 
 293 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 The Chinese attempts to subdue the Lolos, especially 
 during the last twenty years, have been a farce ; there has been 
 no organised plan, no united effort. True, officials have 
 been appointed to the task ; much money has been squan- 
 dered, and many lives lost, but every attempt has been an 
 utter failure, its only result to line pockets of officials in charge 
 of the operations, to discourage the Chinese Militia, and to 
 encourage the Lolos in their raiding and insubordination. 
 
 [.OLO CHIEF S HOSTAGES. 
 
 To explain all this I will give a rough idea of how these 
 Chinese expeditions are conducted. 
 
 In the first place the Chinese Government sends in officials 
 who know nothing about the Lolos or their comitr}^ ; after 
 all these years of warfare they have not even a map. The 
 orders are to subdue these disturbers of the peace. The 
 official takes over his seal, collects the Militia, consisting of 
 local farmers who have to supply their own weapons, which 
 
 294 
 
Independent Lololand. 
 
 consist of antiquated muzzle-loading fuse guns, bamboo 
 poles with iron heads which they call lances, and old swords 
 covered with the rust of years. With these untrained men 
 and useless weapons he marches against the Lolos, to beard 
 the lion in his den. 
 
 The Lolos, who are as well or better armed, have the ad- 
 vantage of knowing their country. Their very existence 
 depends on their defence of the small track of territory which 
 they call their own, and in defence of it they are prepared 
 to fight to the death. Their motto is, " The man who is 
 afraid to die for his country is not fit to live." The Chinese 
 motto is, " He who fights . and runs away may live to 
 light another day " ; and John prays to the gods that 
 there may be a way of escape when the time conies for him 
 to run. 
 
 Take, for example, the latest Chinese expedition against 
 the Lolos. During last winter tlie Lolos had become more 
 and more daring in their raids and capped their outrages 
 by attacking a village, carrying off some 300 of the inhabi- 
 tants, leaving only the very old and helpless ones, many of 
 whom they slew in their homes. 
 
 The Chinese officials thought that something must be done, 
 so they treated with the Lolos to try and ransom the 
 prisoners ; but they did not want to spend too much money, 
 and, as the Lolos asked a large price for the young and strong 
 captives, the officials only bought back some of the old ones, 
 who were cheap, and left the others to their fate. This did 
 not satisfy the friends of the captives. Representations 
 were made to Chentu, and the officials were recalled and 
 new ones sent to take their place. They arrived at Ning- 
 yuenfu in July, 1908, and by the Ninth INIoon had made pre- 
 parations to chastise the unruly brigands. 
 
 This time, the (icncral, a very fair officer as they go in 
 China, asked for foreign drilled soldiers and modern rifles ; 
 
 295 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 so they sent him 400 foreign drilled soldiers. Modem rifles 
 are valuable and cannot be risked in warfare, so he was com- 
 pelled to make up the balance of his force with 3,000 farmer 
 Mihtia. 
 
 The force collected at Ningyuenfu, but before going to the 
 front they had to christen the flag. The day for this great 
 event was fixed, and an unfortunate hostage from the district 
 in which the war was to be waged, was led down to the parade 
 ground, where hundreds of spectators and the army of 3,400 
 men were assembled. 
 
 The victim was tied down to a bench and a bucket being 
 placed to catch the blood, his .throat was then cut from ear 
 to ear in the same way as men kill a sheep. 
 
 The flags were then dipped in the blood, and the heart 
 and liver were taken home and cooked and eaten by some 
 of the soldiers to give them courage. 
 
 When their courage had been thoroughly aroused the 
 whole army marched out bravely to Tasin Chang, about 
 ten ni'les from Ningyuenfu. They presented a brave and for- 
 midable appearance, as there were no Lolos in sight. 
 
 The Taotai and Colonel thought that Tasin Chang would 
 be a good place to make their headquarters, as there is a good 
 inn and 200 Chinese famihes, and they could buy vegetables 
 and meat there, and make themselves fairly comfortable. 
 The soldiers were sent to the front and after some weeks of 
 hard marching had advanced twenty miles. 
 
 They were 3,400 strong, and had a Gatling gun besides, 
 so they felt very brave as they had as yet seen none of the 
 enemy, and had been marching on a good road. 
 
 They had now been some time in the interior, and had 
 no heads to send out to their superiors to prove their great 
 achievements, battles fought and victories won ; so to fill 
 up this blank they caught some of the slaves of a friendly 
 tribe, cut off their heads and sent these, with the report that 
 
 296 
 
^■1^ 
 
 WlUTlMU-OOn I.OI.OS. 
 
Independent Lololand. 
 
 they had won a victory over their enemy, whose country, 
 in fact, was some twenty-five miles further on. 
 
 This was too nnich for the friendly tribes near Kohchoh- 
 ling, so a few days later, under cover of a thick fog, fifteen 
 of the Lolo warriors charged into the middle of tlie Chinese 
 camp, war-whooping ond cutting right and left with their 
 short swords ; they killed some eighty of the Chinese braves 
 and the fifteen escaped unhurt into the thick fog. 
 
 The Chinese were so surprised that they forgot to hre their 
 guns or use their bayonets or even their spears, their excuse 
 being that they were afraid to hurt one another. 
 
 A short distance away i,ooo Lolos attacked another part 
 of the camp but were not successful. Their plan was to 
 surround the Chinese camp and to kill off all the soldiers, 
 but they were met on a pass by part of the Chinese Army, 
 and about eighty fell on both sides. 
 
 However, the Chinese had had enough, struck camp, and 
 fled toward Tasin Chang, the news of the Emperor's death 
 arriving about the same time, so they were able to save their 
 face. But the Viceroy, who had his spies in the country, 
 got the true story and all the officials who had anything to 
 do with the affair were at once recalled ; and the brave little 
 pedlar, who drove a brisk trade with the soldiers, now sits 
 in the Prefect's chair, though it remains to be seen if he will 
 be able to manage things any better than his predecessors. 
 Strange to say the Lolos claim a victory, and are now daring 
 and energetic in their raids on the poor farmers. 
 
 It was just a few weeks after the Chinese troops returned 
 from their attack on the Lolos that Brooke entered the 
 country. 
 
 He took with him his Chinese-English interpreter, also 
 his Tibetan interpreter, three coolies with light loads, and 
 the Futou or foreman. 
 
 Their first intention was to go to the border of the Lolo 
 299 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 country and get acquainted with some friendly chief, if pos- 
 sible, and find out something of the country and its people. 
 
 He knew if the Chinese officials suspected his plan they 
 would surely stop him, so he quietly slipped out of the North 
 Gate of the city, and by going up a quiet path got clear away, 
 without anyone knowing even which way he had gone. 
 
 Mr. Meares was left at Ningyuenfu to develop photographs 
 and make ready for their journey toward Batang when the 
 party returned. They had learned that there were friendly 
 Lolos to the north, and Brooke started out, hoping to 
 find one of them, and telling his companion that he might 
 be only two days away or he might be two weeks. Day after 
 day Meares waited in vain for the party to return or some 
 word to arrive of their whereabouts. When I reached Ning- 
 yuenfu some three weeks later I found him in a most agitated 
 state of mind. He and Mr. Rudd met me on the road as I 
 approached the city and told me the position. I feared the 
 worst, but thought it was possible that Brooke might have 
 got safely through the secluded stretch of country, and had had 
 to return by one of the roundabout ways. That would take 
 at least five weeks for the round trip, and there was no wa}^ 
 of getting a letter or messenger across. To inform the Chinese 
 would probably get the party into trouble even if they were 
 quite safe, for the guards have been known to make it very 
 difficult for any one trying to break through their fines and 
 enter this country. IMr, Wellwood was expected home any 
 day, and as he was personally acquainted with the officials, 
 and also with some of the border Lolos, we all thought it was 
 best to wait for him, 
 
 I was also anxious to see Wellwood, so delayed my journey 
 westward a few da\-s. 
 
 While I waited, I got in touch with some of the friendly 
 Lolos, and tried to find out if they knew anything of the where- 
 abouts of the party. They professed their ignorance, but 
 
 300 
 
Independent Lololand. 
 
 agreed to send out men to inquire and report to us on their 
 return ; but though they learnt what had liappencd they 
 refused to inform us, being afraid. 
 
 By the time Welhvood returned we had given up hope, 
 and he and Meares went at once to the Chinese official and 
 reported Mr. Brooke's delay. 
 
 The Prefect, who was expecting to be relieved any day, 
 for he had already been dismissed for the failure which he 
 
 TWO LOLO CHIEFS, HOSTAGES AT YUEIIHSI TING. 
 
 and the Taotai had made in subduing the Lolos in the pre- 
 vious autumn, was quite ind-gnant at the party attempting 
 the journey without first reporting to him. He said if he 
 had known he would not have allowed them to go in ; but, 
 of course, they had known this, and that was why they had 
 not reported. Mr. Meares, through Mr. Welhvood, engaged 
 native spies and sent them into the country, and they brought 
 out the first report of what had really befallen the party. 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 This account differed in some details from the reports we 
 got later from the two survivors (after they were ransomed 
 by the Chinese military official Mr. Yang of Tsoying also 
 called Sanchiangkou, a mihtary post on the ■\Iupien side), 
 but was true enough to the facts. 
 
 After Mr. Wellwood returned I remained three days, and 
 then, deciding that there was nothing I could do there, started 
 out for Mienninghsien ; but on reaching Loku, feeling I should 
 go up to the Lolo border and see if I could get any word of 
 the missing party, I turned east instead of going north, 
 landed at Kan Shang ying, and there made friends with the 
 Chinese military official, getting later in touch with one of 
 the most influential black chiefs, who agreed to go security 
 for my safe journey to Chaochoh, the Lolo capital or centre. 
 I had very little difficulty in making this arrangement. The 
 chief said they had heard no word of ]\Ir. Brooke and his 
 party, but assured me they would be all right, as most of the 
 people were friendly to foreigners. 
 
 All the arrangements for my journey to Chaochoh and 
 out via Ningyuenfu being completed, the chief and his party 
 left me. 
 
 The guide was to come next morning at daylight to lead 
 the way to the next chief, but next morning I waited till 
 9 a.m. and neither my guide nor the chief appeared. As I 
 did not want to let the Chinese officials know my intentions 
 I kept quiet. About 9.30 the old chief came into my room, 
 and squatting on the floor, said after a little ado that he could 
 not be security for me, and asked me to give up the idea for 
 the present. Some of the tribes en route, he added, were at 
 war and it was impossible to cross the country. I could 
 not understand the cause of his sudden change of attitude 
 but felt that all was not right. 
 
 After trying in every way to assure him that I was not 
 afraid, and that we could get round the tribes who were 
 
 302 
 
I ndcj)cn(,l('nt I .( )1( )lan< 1. 
 
 fighting, but finding this no use, and the old chief quite firm ; 
 I had to give up the idea of advancing — at least from this 
 point — and returned toward Loku. 
 
 We had not gone more than four miles when my Lolo inter- 
 preter told me the cause of the chief's changing his mind. 
 He said two men had come from the interior, arriving at 
 Kanshangying just after the chief left me the evening before, 
 and had brought word that Mr. Brooke and party had been 
 cut to pieces by the A-heo tribe, and that the peo[)le in the 
 interior were quite excited over it. This was just like a 
 Chinese, and I suppose a Lolo as well, to keep back the facts 
 until the opportunity of finding out more had passed. 
 
 I had not to wait long until the report was confirmed from 
 another source, and a little further down the valley I met a 
 runner with a letter saying that the scouts they had sent 
 out had returned with the report that Mr. Brooke and party 
 had been cut to pieces. Mr. Meares begged me to return to 
 Ningyuenfu to try and help him, as Wellwood had to go out to 
 Chiatingfu to their conference. I returned at once and found 
 that other messengers had come in with reports, which did 
 not offer any hope for the isolated party. 
 
 About the same time a telegram arrived from Chentu from 
 the Consul and my wife asking me not to continue my journey 
 westward as there was serious fighting in the neighbourhood 
 of Batang. 
 
 I remained at Ningyuenfu two weeks, doing what I could 
 to help to rescue the party or any survivors that might be 
 held as slaves ; but we could get but little satisfaction as the 
 official would not exert himself. During this time I got 
 acquainted with a number of Musu and Lisu people and some 
 even from Mih, half-way to Batang ; all of them oftered to 
 guide us as far as Mili. 
 
 After what had just happened, and the message that had 
 come from Chentu, it seemed best to return and postpone 
 (1 1243) 305 ^ 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 my westward journey ; so with a sad heart I turned my face 
 toward Chentu, while Mr. Meares remained at Ningyuenfu 
 to await further developments, and see if the Chinese would 
 be able to get the bodies and bring the guilt}^ persons to 
 justice. 
 
 I here give a translation of the report given by the two 
 survivors of the party who went in with Mr. Brooke — one 
 who was the Futou or foreman, and the other one of the 
 carriers — the rest were all put to death. 
 
 For the sake of the friendly Lolos I refrain from giving 
 the names of the friendly chiefs, but this free translation of 
 the report given by the survivors may be of interest. 
 
 After leaving Ningyuenfu the party travelled in a north- 
 easterly course, passing through the territory of several 
 friendly chiefs before reaching Chao-choh. 
 
 From one of these chiefs Brooke secured an interpreter 
 who had travelled throughout the country. 
 
 Near Chao-choh they found a friendly chief who killed 
 a sheep in honour of the visitor from the West and insisted 
 on making Brooke his blood brother. 
 
 This chief invited them to travel through the country, 
 and sent his own son to introduce them to the next chief. 
 Thus they were passed on from one tribe to another and were 
 well received. 
 
 They travelled live days in a north-easterly course, during 
 which time they walked 300 li (or about 75 miles) and reached 
 the top of the Liangshan Range at the Tafung ting Pass. 
 As the snow was very deep and the descent steep on the east 
 side of the pass Brooke decided that they would not descend 
 it but return from this place. 
 
 From the top of the pass they could see the country about 
 Mapicn and even Omei shan in the distance, but by the 
 shortest route they were still iSo li (or 45 miles) from Mapien. 
 On tliis pass Mr. Brooke spent some time, mapping the 
 
 ;o6 
 
Independent Lolola 
 
 country to the east, as well as filling in the great stretch that 
 opened out to the west and south of them. 
 
 The snow was very deep and the weather extremely cold, 
 so during the night the Lolo guide ran away, and in the morn- 
 ing they found themselves without a representative man 
 to introduce them to the next chief. 
 
 However, they continued their journey by a road that 
 runs further north, hoping to come out at Kanshangying, 
 the place where I attempted to enter the country. The 
 descent was quite gradual and 2,000 feet below the peak, 
 which they descended in a distance of five miles, and came 
 to the first Lolo chief's hut. 
 
 On arrival they found the chief and all the representative 
 men away, but the chief's wife was at home. In Lololand 
 the women have almost as much authority as the men. The 
 chief's wife asked them to wait until the chief returned, but 
 this Brooke refused to do, saying that he must hurry, 
 and if she could not give an escort he must go on without 
 it ; and so they continued their journey. They had not 
 gone far when the chief's wife overtook them on horseback, 
 offering to conduct them through her domains herself on 
 condition that the fee was paid in advance ; for they always 
 make a charge for allowing anyone, even a Chinese pedlar, 
 to pass through. Brooke agreed to pay the fee, which 
 was only a small one, on arrival at the next chief's house, 
 saying that the last man was paid in advance and had run 
 away. To this she would not agree, demanding the amount 
 in advance ; and when it was not paid she rode off and 
 left the party to find their own way. 
 
 Brooke and his party continued their journey without 
 escort, and after crossing a small spur arrived at a village, 
 where they slept in the house of the next chief. 
 
 He was quite friendly and agreed to pass them on to his 
 next neighbour. Brooke paid i tacl (about ^s.) in advance. 
 
 309 
 
sport and IVavel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 The chief escorted them some distance himself, when 
 Brooke urged him to return saying that if he sent a repre- 
 sentative man that would be quite sufficient, so the chief 
 sent two of his slaves with them. 
 
 That night they slept in a house of one of the tribe, and 
 while they were eating their supper a suit of fur clothing and 
 some small articles were stolen. The people who gathered 
 about were a bit rowdy, and in a half friendly way tried to 
 frighten the interpreter Ho, by pretending to make him a 
 prisoner (as in the photograph). They were also determined 
 to see and handle the Mauser rifle, to which Brooke objected ; 
 so, putting the rifle in the sleeping bag, himself kept charge 
 of it. They were not molested during the night, but the 
 people did not seem very friendly. 
 
 Next morning when leaving Brooke refused to make 
 any present unless the fur coat and other things were re- 
 turned. They continued with the two slaves from the last 
 chief as guides. 
 
 All went well until about noon, when an arrow was fired 
 at one of the advance coolies from a thicket through which 
 they were passing. He dropped his load and ran back. The 
 interpreter and two slave guides held a consultation with 
 the men who were in ambush. They came out into the road 
 and proved to be a gang of about thirty men who had followed 
 them from the village where they had spent the night. They 
 stated that they were looking for some stray cattle and 
 marched on ahead until they came to a place where the path 
 ran through a deep gorge, where they mounted the cliff and 
 waited for Brooke's party to come up. 
 
 Their movements were detected and the party halted 
 while the two interpreters and the slave escort went forward 
 and consulted with them. 
 
 A-heo then stated his business, saying that he was the 
 chief of this district and they had no right there without 
 
Independent Lololand. 
 
 his consent. The chief was invited to come down from the 
 chff and talk the matter over. A-heo-labow and six of liis 
 followers came down, and Brooke explained to him that 
 he tliought the escort he had was in order, and that he did 
 
 LOI.O (.IRLS, AGED ABOUT KIGHTEIi> 
 
 not know that he was breaking any of their rules or customs ; 
 adding that if the chief had authority to escort him through 
 the country to the next State he would be glad to arrange 
 with the chief for this. 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 The A-heo chief said that the slaves who had escorted them 
 from the last chief had no right to pass through his terri- 
 tory, and that they should have been changed where they 
 spent the night. 
 
 He at first demanded lo taels to escort them to the next 
 chief, but as Brooke knew it was not more than ten miles from 
 where they were he refused to give so much, and they finally 
 agreed to take 5 taels (or about 9s.), but demanded it in 
 advance. 
 
 The attitude of A-heo and his followers did not inspire 
 the party with confidence, and the interpreter said that they 
 intended to rob them from the first. 
 
 Brooke tried to show him that it was impossible for 
 his party to run away with all his coolies and things, and that 
 he would surely pay him what he had agreed to on reaching 
 the next chief, who had been friendly on their way up. 
 
 They seemed to have some little talk over the matter of 
 paying in advance, and Brooke in a friendly way put his hand 
 on the chief's shoulder and put the other hand on his own 
 pocket, trying to show by signs that he would surely pay 
 him the money himself on arrival at the house of the next 
 chief. Whether A-heo-labow understood Brooke's meaning 
 or whether he took it as an insult it is hard to say, but I think 
 he resented Brooke's freedom, as no one is supposed to lay 
 their hands on a chief or on his clothes. Instantly drawing his 
 sword, he struck a blow at Brooke's head, which he caught 
 on his left arm, receiving a bad cut, and, aroused by this 
 treacherous assault, he drew his revolver and shot the chief. 
 Seeing what he had done, he fired two or three more shots in 
 the air and the chief's supporters all shpped off into the 
 undergrowth and disappeared. Brooke called to his followers 
 to drop their loads and follow him, knowing that in a very 
 short time they w'ould be surrounded and taken, and their 
 only hope was to try and reach the next chief. They ran 
 
Independent Lololand. 
 
 down through the gorge and reached a stream, and by the 
 time they had run ten miles and arrived at Suga's house they 
 were quite exhausted. Some of the cooHes fell behind and 
 were overtaken in the way by the pursuing Lolos. 
 
 When Brooke and his interpreter reached Suga's house 
 they reported what had taken place and offered the chief 
 600 taels if he would get them out safely to Chinese territory. 
 This he promised to do if they would give up the rifle. Be- 
 lieving the chief to be friendly Brooke gave him his rifle 
 with the promise of being safely escorted to Yueh Hsiting, 
 but no sooner had he done so than their pursuers were upon 
 them and the}^ were surrounded, Brooke tried to get on 
 the top of the house, but was knocked down by a stone, 
 Suga, who was a brother-in-law of the chief A-heo-labow, who 
 had been shot, let his men help the A-heo people, according 
 to their law he was bound to — and the whole party were soon 
 cut to pieces. 
 
 But Brooke kept his men together to tlie last and died 
 bravely trying to defend them ; but it was more than 100 
 to I, and the struggle was short. 
 
 The two men who escaped the sad fate of the rest of tlie 
 party were stunned by a stone by which they were hit in the 
 early part of the fray. After some time, reviving, they managed 
 to creep away and hide in caves, neither of them knowing 
 but that they were the sole survivors. They were found 
 next day by a slave and secretly sold to a neighbouring tribe. 
 How they were tied to one of the other slaves and were made 
 to work all day, only given a very small portion of corn meal 
 cake or some boiled potatoes when they returned at night, 
 and were put in a pit in the centre of a house while the rest 
 of the slaves slept on the boards lest they should escape — 
 is a story which would really be amusing if it were not linked 
 to that other and tragic story of INIr. P>r()okc and liis 
 party's end, 
 
 313 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes, 
 
 My Chinese boy who went as interpreter to Mr. Brooke 
 stood by him to the last, and he met the same fate as his 
 jnaster and the others. 
 
 This report was told me by both men before they had met 
 each other after their release. The foreman was escorted 
 to Chentii and made his report to me before the officials saw 
 him. 
 
 The other man reported to me at Mapien, and both stories 
 agreed except in a few minor details which were not im- 
 portant. Both of them had deep scars, and one had deep 
 cuts in his head which eighty days after the attack were not 
 healed. 
 
 Thus ended the life of a daring explorer and born traveller. 
 
 314 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 ReliCxION and Customs of the Lolos. 
 
 This is a most difficult topic to write about, since there are 
 many branches of these people under the general name of 
 Miao, into which the Chinese group all the tribes of Kwcichow, 
 Yunnan and Sechuan. 
 
 Many of these tribes have their own local customs and 
 religion, and one has to be careful to state clearly which tribe 
 is referred to. A good deal of general information about 
 some of these tribes can be gleaned from Chinese history, 
 but it is difficult to be always quite sure just whom any of its 
 compilers is referring to. However, I propose to give a few 
 extracts from an abridged history and then to add a few 
 paragraphs on what I know of the particular people under 
 review. But it will be impossible in one chapter to go into 
 much detail, and already my story has grown far be\-ond 
 the original plan of this book. I trust my readers will not 
 have grown weary of this simple narrative of adventure and 
 travel among this ancient and secluded people. 
 
 I venture, therefore, to insert these short extracts from a 
 Chinese history which, so far as I know, has never before been 
 translated. 
 
 There are many tribes in the mountains and valleys of 
 Sechuan, as recorded by many historians. After having 
 read their accounts and comparing them with what I know 
 and have heard of the Miao tribes, I here record what I have 
 learned of those in Sechuan though brief yet complete. 
 "The Miao religion dates from Panhu about 2500 B.C. Panhu 
 
 315 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 killed off all the aborigines for which the Emperor Tikuh 
 honoured him by giving him his daughter and a kingdom. 
 He had six sons and six daughters, who became the fathers 
 of all the Miao. 
 
 "They occupied the country of Yalang and lying between 
 Suifu and Ningyuenfu to the border of Kweichow and 
 Yunnan. 
 
 "These tribes are divided into the White Miao, Flower Miao, 
 Black Miao, Red Miao, Green Miao, and each tribe has its 
 owTi colour of dress. They are scattered about in villages 
 and hamlets, and any trifling cause will start a vendetta, as 
 the proverb says, ' They will continue their animosity for 
 nine generations.' 
 
 " Those who live near the border governed by China are 
 called Su Miao (ripe or manageable), while in the interior 
 they are called Sung Miao (raw or unmanageable). The 
 people near the Chinese border work hard hke the cow or ox, 
 yet they are very poor. The men put their hair up in a horn, 
 and the women wear clam shells, and a hair pin about ten 
 inches long in their hair, and in their ears long earrings. They 
 wear a seamless cloak, having a hole for the head to pass 
 through. 
 
 " The first day of the tenth moon is their feast day. On 
 the first day of the new year they worship Panhu and offer 
 fish to him in a trough or altar, and crying out in a loud wailing 
 voice. 
 
 "When visiting an official, whether of high or low degree, 
 he is addressed as the old Emperor. 
 
 "The Chinese are always referred to as the Han, because 
 it was in the Han dynasty, between 201 B.C. and 23 a.d., that 
 they were conquered and made subjects. 
 
 "The Song Miao and the Tsai Miao are the descendants of 
 the kings of Song and Tsai, who ruled in Honan and Hunan 
 from 1122 to 770 B.C., when their two kingdoms were con- 
 
 -,i6 
 
A LOLO MUSICIAN. 
 
Religion and Customs of the Lolos. 
 
 quered by Chi and Tsii a remnant of the people escaped 
 westward and became the Sung and the Tsai Miao. 
 
 "These people are very honest and cultivate the land. The 
 Sung tribe are the more intelligent. 
 
 "They still wear their hair in a horn on top of their heads 
 as of old, but have clianged the fashion of their garments 
 and have adopted that of the other Miao tribes. 
 
 "When the Tsai dynasty conquered the Chow, many of the 
 princes of Chow were sent west as outlaws and prisoners, 
 and these became the Tien tribe, who still retain many of 
 the Chow customs, such as the worship of their ancestors, 
 which is performed by a procession, led by the heads of 
 the families or chiefs and all join in a song of praise to the 
 departed. 
 
 "The Ya Miao live in Peislia (north gorge), they despise the 
 old and honour the young. When a man or woman is old 
 they drive them out for sale, and even a son wiU sell his own 
 father or mother. 
 
 " This tribe lives in caves, which they have hewn out of 
 the rocks in precipitous places, some of which are as much as 
 eighty feet up the cliff side, and to which ascent and descent 
 are made by means of bamboo ladders or ropes, which the 
 men and women can climb like monkeys." 
 
 Much more of this ancient history could be quoted, but 
 it might not be of interest to the general reader, and I think 
 enough has been given to show that there are a great many 
 different tribes, each having somewhat distinct customs. 
 It will be noted that the caves found in Western China were 
 not hewn out by the Chinese, but by those tribes ; not for 
 tombs, as some suppose, but for dwelhngs and strongholds. 
 While the terra-cotta figures found in some of these caves 
 show that a different style of dress was worn by the people 
 which made and pkiced these figures there more than 2, coo 
 years ago, yet it is not proved that the caves weie not cut out 
 
 3 '9 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 and once inhabited by the emigrants from Honan and Hunan, 
 after they fled westward from Central China. 
 
 History states that many of these emigrants were princes, 
 who were banished or had fled for their Hves rather than 
 submit to their conquerors. Their descendants claim to have 
 royal blood in their veins and are as proud to-day as their 
 princely forerunners may have been in the year 700 B.C. 
 
 The characters used by them prove that they were once 
 connected with the Chinese nation. I know one man in 
 Chentu. a student of the ancient character, who was able to 
 recognise many of the signs used by the Lolos, but many of 
 them were unknown to him. 
 
 We must now look at the people found in that piece of 
 country marked on the map " Independent Lololand." 
 
 First their name : — These people are generally called Lolos 
 by the Chinese, which is much resented by them, and even 
 the name of Iren, i.e., barbarian, is preferred. Some 
 Chinese claim that the name Lolo arose from the custom of 
 writing the name of their departed on a piece of paper and 
 placing it in a basket which is hung in a certain position on 
 the wall. This is why the Black Bloods look upon the name 
 as an insult to their ancestors. Whatever the cause may be, 
 serious objection is raised to the name and they call them- 
 selves Nosu, which the Chinese translate black bone, but 
 literally it means black person, or as the Nosu interpret it 
 "royalty." It is used in much the same sense as the term 
 " Blue blood " is applied to aristocracy in England. 
 
 There is very little known of their religion, except that 
 som.e of them worship the sun, and others oak trees and groves. 
 When a Lolo dies his greatest ambition is to be sent to the 
 next world in a chariot of fire. As soon as he is dead his 
 friends gather round his remains and build a great bonfire 
 and place his body on it. When the body has been cremated 
 the ashes are put in a jar and buried, and his name is written 
 
 320 
 
Religion and Customs of the Lolos. 
 
 on a piece of paper and put in tlie family basket. This 
 basket occupies a similar position in their religion to the 
 ancestral tablet among the Chinese. 
 
 It is this desire to be despatched in a fiery chariot that 
 keeps the Lolo from ever going very far from home, unless 
 travelling in fairly large parties. When a Black Bone is 
 killed in war, either by the Chinese or in tribal feuds, a great 
 price is sometimes paid to secure their dead bodies, in order 
 that their friends may join in the ceremony of lighting them 
 into the next world. That is why their dead are always 
 carried off the field v/hilc the battle is still raging, that their 
 bodies may be despatched with great honour and may not 
 fall into the hands of their enemies. It is a rare thing to 
 find a dead Lolo on the field, even immediately after the 
 battle. It is the greatest honour for a serf to rescue the 
 body of a chief or comrade from the enemies' camp. 
 
 If they are away from home and anyone should be taken 
 seriously ill, or is wounded so that he has to be left behind, 
 his companions will prepare for him a pile of wood on which 
 they place the body, so that the sick or wounded man may 
 light his own fire when he finds he cannot get better or is- 
 about to be overtaken by his pursuers. 
 
 The magicians, or witch doctors, of the Lolos, have great 
 influence and are practically the only persons who can read. 
 Their writing is very httlc used except for purposes oi' 
 incantation. I beheve they have some landmarks of their 
 history preserved, and when some one has mastered their 
 hieroglyphics and translated their writings we may find it 
 clearly stated who these people are. But so far as I have 
 been able to glean, up to the present time, I am persuaded 
 that the Lolo Nosu are the original inhabitants of Assam, 
 who were driven northward at the time of the Bengal invasion. 
 They found their way into Central Chma and there for some 
 time played a leading part in Chinese early history, having 
 
 "1243) 321 V 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 much to do with the introduction of Chinese writing. In 
 some Chinese liistories credit is given to the chief of one of 
 these tribes for introducing writing into China. In the time- 
 of the Chow's, rather than submit to their conquerors, they 
 emigrated to other regions. 
 
 So we find a remnant in West China. I have reason to 
 suppose that the Corean is of the same stock ; he has the same 
 type of face, liis ancient st\de of writing is similar to, if not 
 identical with, the Lolos. Others of them found their wa}- 
 over to Japan, and we find terra-cotta models in the ancient 
 caves of that country similar to those recently found in West 
 Chuia. All this is still short of absolute proof, of course ; 
 but from clues that I have been able to obtain I think I am 
 en the right track. 
 
 They are certainly not Tibetan, as some people have been 
 led to think, having nothing in common with the Tibetans, 
 and being their sworn enemies. 
 
 I was told by a commander in the Siamese Army, whose 
 father is a member of the King's Cabinet, that the original 
 inhabitants of Assam emigrated northward into China many 
 thousands of years ago, and that there is not even a remnant 
 of that people left there. When I showed him the photo- 
 graphs of the terra-cotta figures found in the caves of West 
 China, he declared that they corresponded to the relics of the 
 early inhabitants of his country, who, when conquered by 
 Bangal, emigrated northward rather than submit to their 
 victors. This is exactly what they did when overcome by the 
 Chows. Tliis officer was an educated man, who seemed 
 to be well up in ancient history, and it was impossible for me 
 to follow him in the recital of his dates, wjiich he quoted 
 as far back as 4000 B.C. 
 
 Since coming to England I have been fortunate enough 
 to meet an educated Corean, and this gentleman claims that 
 tlie Lolo writings and customs are very similar to the ancient 
 
Religion and Customs of the Lolos. 
 
 Corean ones ; and he was prompt to claim a relationship. 
 I only throw these hints out for what they are worth, not 
 being able to prove them one way or the other ; but for the 
 student of anthropology, ethnology and archaeology, here 
 is a most interesting field for his operations, and I only wish 
 I had the necessary knowledge of the languages and the 
 leisure to delve into the subject. Perhaps, if he should cast 
 an eye on these pages, Mr. Andrew Lang may have something 
 to give us from the store of his mythological knowledge. 
 
 The Lolos are very superstitious, and one needs to be well 
 acquainted with their customs and beliefs in order to deal 
 with them without giving offence, for once that is done three 
 generations will not erase the grievance, which will be handed 
 down to posterit}' until revenged. 
 
 If a chief or one of his family is killed, his tribe are under 
 obligation to take the hfe of some one of equal rank in their 
 enemies' camp before the wrong is appeased. 
 
 The pure Black Bloods are tall, nimble fellows ; some of them 
 are over six feet in height and scarcely any of them below 
 five feet ten inches. The way they scale cliffs and descend 
 mountains is a mystery to the Chinese, and some celestials 
 credit them with the power of being able to fly. 
 
 Their chiefs wear long black cloaks made of one piece of 
 very good quality of felt, I bought one of these cloaks from a 
 Lolo chief ; it measured twenty- four feet around the bottom 
 when spread out ; a draw string put through one end of this sheet 
 of felt is gathered in until it ties neatly about the neck, and 
 hanging loosely over their shoulders comes down to about the 
 knee. He wears very roomy trousers made of Chinese white 
 cotton, which are tucked into long white felt socks. The 
 leg is neatly wrapped from the ankle up by a narrow black 
 woollen bandage very neatly put on, and is similar to the 
 putties worn by our troops. 
 
 Over the felt socks he wears sandals made of bamboo fibre, 
 
 (H243) 3^-} ^' - 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 which has a string of the same material coming over the side 
 of the foot and toes, fastening around the ankle with a draw 
 string. 
 
 His hair is done up in a horn on the top of his head, around 
 which he sometimes wraps a white piece of cotton. 
 
 The Black Bone can easily be distinguished from the White 
 Bones or serfs, who are mostly Chinese or Tibetan who have 
 been captured by their knights and carried into slavery. 
 Strange to say, they soon become loyal to their chiefs. 
 
 The serfs wear white, grey or brown cloaks, short trousers ; 
 and go barefooted. 
 
 A few of the more fortunate ones have white putties and 
 sandals in the winter season. 
 
 The Black Bones are the lords and never do any work. 
 They are fond of hunting and wandering about the mountains. 
 They are almost without exception remarkably straight 
 built, with sHm muscular limbs, whilst some of them are 
 robust, yet anything approaching the build of a chubby 
 Chinaman is unknown in their ranks. Most of them have 
 broad, deep chests as become mountaineers. 
 
 Their large oval eyes, set in an oval face, with fairly 
 prominent cheek bones, arched but rather broad nose, pointed 
 chin and thin, firm lips, from which the scanty beard has 
 been plucked, set them apart as being a quite distinct race 
 of people from any other in China. Their teeth are white 
 and regular, which may be accounted for by the food they live 
 on, which is largely maize bread ; and it is said that they never 
 eat roast meat, but partake of it either raw, dried or boiled. 
 One marked feature is a tendency to wrinkles, especially in 
 their forehead, of men past forty years of age. Their 
 foreheads are low but broad and upright. 
 
 The Lolo gathers his felt mantle tightly around him and 
 cares not for wind, rain or hail ; he is at home wherever night 
 overtakes him, for, tucking his mantle closely about him, he 
 
 324 
 
Religion cind Customs of the Lolos. 
 
 squats in a sitting position on his lieels, with his back up 
 against a rock or a bank, and gathering his cloak over his 
 head, sleeps there, impervious to wind and rain. I have 
 seen them, even when lodging in a Chinese inn at Haitang, 
 spend the night in this way, even though there was a Chinese 
 bed there if they wished to use it. In their own homes they 
 sometimes lie down to sleep. 
 
 The Lolos are great horsemen and breed fine ponies, which 
 when well trained are sold to the Chinese. The stirrups 
 are so short that when riding the knees are at right angles 
 to their bodies, yet they pace their little ponies along the 
 sides of the cliffs on narrow rough roads at high speed, as 
 readily as they do on the plains. 
 
 Once a year, usually in the tenth month, a great fair is held, 
 when the clans gather from all quarters and race their ponies. 
 This is a time of general merriment, much wine is drunk, 
 and man\- of them spend the night on the race course. 
 
 The Lolo women are also tall and graceful, wear flat hats 
 rather like tam-o'-shanters, and some of them have hats 
 made of calico or cotton stretched on a bamboo lioop, which 
 look almost hke quaker bonnets ; while round the neck a tall 
 collar, ornamented with silver, and embroidered short jacket 
 over a long accordion-pleated skirt, complete the costume. 
 
 The Black Bloods never marry out of their own rank, 
 and never marry with a Chinese of any rank. 
 
 When all the arrangements concerning a marriage have 
 been completed and the day for the wedding is fixed, the 
 bride is escorted by her parents and some of her friends to a 
 favourable camping ground near the bridegroom's home. 
 The day is spent in feasting and merriment, and at night tht- 
 bridegroom comes to the tent of liis bride and steals her awa\' 
 to his own home. 
 
 The women are much honoured and a daughter is much 
 more welcome in a home than a son ; for when the daughter 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 gets married her husband must send horses, sheep or cattle 
 as presents to the girl's parents ; when a son gets married he 
 must send presents to his father-in-law's home. 
 
 Women have almost as much to say in poKtical affairs 
 as the men, and in stopping a quarrel they have much more 
 influence. 
 
 Should there be a quarrel between two parties in a clan 
 and one of the girls wish to stop it, she takes off her skirt 
 and, walking backwards, trails it after her on the ground 
 between the two parties, and if they have any honour or 
 chivalry in them, not another blow will be struck, at least 
 on this occasion. It has been stated by the Rev. S. Pollard 
 that there are 20,000 of non-Chinese people in West China 
 exclusive of Mohammedans. 
 
 It is estimated that there are 17,000,000 of non-Chinese, 
 exclusive of Mohammedans, in all China. 
 
 These are grouped into four great famihes, viz., the Shan, 
 Miao, Nosu and Tibetan tribes. 
 
 There are 5,000,000 to be found in Kweicheo province, which 
 has a total population of 8,000,000; 7,000,000 are found in 
 the province of Yunnan, which has a total population of 
 12,000,000 ; and over 5,000,000 are to be found in Sechuan, 
 which has a total population of 65,000,000. 
 
 It is only within the last few years that any attempt has 
 been made by a foreigner to come in contact with these people, 
 and still only a very small part of this great host has come 
 under the influence of the jMissionary. The China Inland 
 Mission have two or three men in Kweicheo who are giving 
 their attention to the Shan and Miao tribes of that province. 
 In Yunnan the United Methodist Mission and also the China 
 Inland Mission have had two or three men at work among 
 these tribes for some years, and already part of the New 
 Testament has been translated into tlieir language, and 
 thousands have been won for Christ. 
 
ReliL;ion and Customs of the Lolos. 
 
 The change that has been brought about is really wonderful. 
 Scores of witch doctors have given up their lucrative occupa- 
 tion of sorcery. The drunken Miao has discarded his wine 
 cup : the maidens have torn down their huts of ill-fame, which 
 they once built by the roadside, and where they, without 
 any sense of shame or disgrace, spent tlunr nights in merriment 
 and debauchery. 
 
 In one place the :\liaos gave 2,000 days of gratis labour 
 to build a church in which to worship the true God, and there, 
 on Sundays, as many as 800 will partake of the Lord's Supper 
 at one time. Thirty thousand Hosannahs are going up daily 
 in this one section of the country, from a people who have 
 been despised by the Chinese for generations, until they had 
 fallen so low in the scale of civilisation that they were but 
 little above the brute beast. 
 
 Yet, when the love of God reached them, it lifted them 
 from the deep pit into which they had fallen and put a new 
 song in their lips, and set them singing such notes of joy that 
 the hillsides resound with echoes of praise, which we trust 
 will go on till they reverberate through every valley and 
 hill and this despised people shall be won for God. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Rescue of the Survivors and Burial of the Murdered 
 Explorer and His Interpreter. 
 
 When definite news was received of the fate of the party, 
 a number of Lolo spies were engaged to enter the country 
 and try and recover the bodies and as many of the things 
 as could be found; also to tr}- and redeem the two alleged 
 surviv^ors. 
 
 These men brought back different versions of what had 
 taken place, and it was difficult to sift out the true from the 
 false. It was decided that nothing should be made public 
 until the two men who had been present were rescued, and 
 their report made. 
 
 The spies secured a few small personal effects, a note-book 
 and part of a letter written to Mr. Meares ; but the things had 
 been so much scattered, and most of them were destroyed, so 
 that it was difficult to get back much. 
 
 A friendh' Lolo chief agreed to bring the bodies out for 
 a nominal sum, but there was so much quarrelling over who 
 was to get the money that he did not succeed in getting them. 
 
 In the meantime the Viceroy sent word to the officials 
 along the border that the bodies must be recovered, and so 
 the local officials sent in agents, who bid against each other, 
 until the Lolos began to say, " If a dead foreigner is worth 
 so much, what would a live one be worth ? " Finally, a man 
 sent out by a colonel on the Mapien side got possession of 
 the two surviving men. having brought them out for 400 taeis 
 
Rescue of the Survivors. 
 
 (or about £50) ; he also paid 800 taels for Mr. Brooke's boch' 
 and 600 taels for Ho s. 
 
 The Futou was sent up to Chentu under escort and came 
 straight to me. I got his report and took it down before 
 he was questioned by the Chentu officials, and sent a report 
 to Mr. Mearcs, who was still at Ningyuenfu. 
 
 The Viceroy asked the British Consul to go to Mapien to 
 identify the body, but he was very ill and could not. A day 
 later he had to leave Chentu for home. And since I knew 
 Mr. Brooke perhaps better than anyone at Chentu, the 
 Consul begged me to go up and see what could be done. 
 
 I had not long returned from Ningyuenfu, but as it was 
 an urgent case I did not hesitate. My wife was again left 
 in charge of our depot and I packed two loads of books and 
 started out, accepting only two Fusongs out of the ten sent 
 by the officials, thus travelling in my usual way. We went 
 overland as far as Chiatingfu and there got boat to Chienwei, 
 a city 120 li (or 30 miles) further down the river. From 
 Chienwei I went by the main road, but one which is very 
 seldom traversed by foreigners and never by myself before. 
 There was no hurry, so we took four days to do the three 
 stages, spending some time at the towns by the way, and by 
 the time I reached Mapien I liad disposed of most of the 
 books I had brought with me. 
 
 On arriving at Mapien I was no longer able to escape the 
 Chinese escort, for the ^'iceroy had sent word to the officials 
 there that I was to be treated with all due respect, as I had 
 been sent by the Consul. This was news for me, for while 
 I had consented to go at the Consul's request, I had no idea 
 that the Chinese were going to look on me as a deputy. 
 
 Protests were of no avail. The best in the place was put 
 at my disposal, and a guard of red-coated braves with rifles 
 were appointed to escort me about on the streets. To this 
 I objected, not allowing them to go with me except when 1 
 
 329 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 called on the Prefect and other officials, which I had to do, 
 as they all came to my inn a short time after I arrived with a 
 full retinue. I\Ir. Yang sent down an escort of eighteen men to 
 escort me up to Sanchiang Kou. This is the most western out- 
 post of Mapien, and only twelve miles from where Mr. Brooke 
 and party turned back. To this military station the prisoners 
 and the bodies of Mr. Brooke and his interpreter were brought 
 b}' the Lolos, but they would not deliver them up until the 
 money had been paid over. 
 
 Though it was eighty days from the time the murders had 
 been committed until the time I examined the bodies, yet 
 they had not decayed, for they had been frozen all the time ; 
 for at Sanchiang Kou fires were needed and furs were worn 
 all the year round. 
 
 It was indeed a sad and trying ordeal for me to look on 
 the remains of my friend, who had left our home in October 
 full of life and vigour, thus mutilated and laid in a Chinese 
 coffin ; but I had no difficulty in identifying his body. 
 
 The corpse of my adopted Chinese boy lay in another coffin 
 alongside. It was impossible to keep the tears of sorrow 
 and regret from rolhng down my cheeks. 
 
 I have been in some trying places during my sixteen years 
 in China, but none that told on me more than this. 
 
 The thought of all my narrow escapes flashed on me, 3'et 
 God had spared me and taken one who had only been in the 
 country for such a comparatively short time. 
 
 It is all too sad to write about, and yet I feel that it is only 
 right that my readers should know what it all meant to me 
 and to others, who have to take their lives in their hands 
 and go forth into the dark corners of the earth. 
 
 I saw the coffins nailed and sealed, and then left them to 
 be sent on to Chentu by the Chinese official, and took a .'^hort 
 cut across the Lolo country, coming out on the Tung at its 
 highest point of navigation ; from there I took boat and came 
 
Rescue of the Survivors- 
 
 down to Chiating, and travelled the main road home without 
 any incident of note. The country travelled through v/as 
 most interesting and quite new, but this is not the time or 
 place to describe it. I may just say that the Lolos v^ere mak- 
 ing nightly raids on the Chinese along their border, and one 
 night I stopped at a place where they came next door to 
 where I was sleeping, sacked the house and carried off two 
 persons. 
 
 About 2 o'clock in the morning I was awakened by a terrible 
 row and the call of " Murder ! murder ! " I was sure it was 
 in the same building in which we were lodging, for there was 
 only a thin mud partition between them and us. 
 
 Bounding out of bed I barred the back door witli some 
 old benches. The whole place was in a turmoil. The soldiers 
 who were encamped across the road were called out ; but before 
 they got to the house, the Lolos had done their work, and 
 had taken some silver and carried off two young people, leav- 
 ing the father and mother, who were about fifty years of age, 
 wounded in the home, and had made their escape. The 
 soldiers fired a few shots after them in the darkness but did 
 not hit any of the Lolos. 
 
 This is a nightly scene at some points along the border, 
 and the traveller who enters Lololand must be prepared for 
 the consequences ; the only safe way is to stick to one's 
 security and never move, unless the Chief or some of his 
 relatives personally escort one. 
 
 On returning to Chentu I found that ]Mr. ]\Ieares had arrived 
 three days before me, coming direct from Ningyuenfu, where 
 he had remained after I left, hoping to do something for the 
 recovery of the survivors and, if possible, to get the body 
 of his companion. This was a most trying time for him, 
 and if it had not been for what was going on in the surround- 
 ing country tlic time would have passed even more slowly 
 than it did. 
 
 331 
 
Sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 The Lolos were asserting themselves everywhere. Reports 
 kept coming in from many places along the borders of nightly 
 raids being made on the isolated settlers. 
 
 When I was coming home, at one place near Lichow, a city 
 only twelve miles north of Ningyuenfu,the Lolos had come down 
 the night before and destroyed a whole village, carrying off over 
 thirty captives. Next morning a detachment of the local ■Militia 
 were sent up to the scene. They were ambuscaded and sur- 
 rounded, and only seven wounded men returned to tell what 
 had happened to the part}-, most of their rifles being captured 
 b}'' the Lolos. This aroused the Chinese General, a man of 
 about seventy years of age, who, because of his experience in 
 days gone by, had been sent to relieve the retiring General since 
 the latter had made such failure of things the previous autumn. 
 As a matter of fact the retiring General was a very capable 
 man, but could not do much, his hands being tied by his 
 superiors. For the Taotai and Futai, who are both civil 
 officers and really the masters of the situation, if there is any 
 credit to be obtained for any achievement, they claim it ; 
 but, if any blame them for any failure, they try to put it on to 
 the military officer; so that to be a General in this part of 
 the world, at least, is not the most desirable position. 
 
 The new General mounting his sedan chair — for he was 
 too old and feeble to ride a horse — called out his men; and 
 with fluttering banners and long spears adorned with tassels 
 of yak hair (dyed red) dangling from their spear sockets, 
 all straggled off in a long procession 500 strong. On reaching 
 Lichow they camped for the night, and next morning set out 
 for the ruined village to find the Lolos who had done the 
 damage some three days earlier. Of course there was no 
 one to be seen, so the old General led his men up to some 
 isolated Lolo huts not far distant and set fire to them. But 
 when they were returning from this achievement a band 
 of Lolos pounced upon them, no one could tell how or from 
 
Rescue of the Survivors. 
 
 where they came ; the Chinese soldiers were just passing 
 through a gorge and got badly cut up, and the General just 
 escaped being captured in his chair. 
 
 He returned to Ningyucnfu and called out all the soldiers 
 and Mihtia, leaving Ningyuenfu unguarded, and led his men 
 back to Lichow and in by the same route to attack some Lolo 
 village where he had been surprised a few days previously. 
 The Lolos got word of his plans and retired, taking every- 
 thing with them, so that the Chinese found nothing but a 
 few empty huts to burn, which would not take the Lolos more 
 than a few days to restore. Their houses, near the Chinese 
 border especially, are no more than a few poles set on end 
 and covered over with wild grass. In some places they have 
 fairly comfortable shanties, but they make no elaborate 
 attempt at building. In this respect they are quite different 
 from the Mantze. 
 
 While the Chinese General was thus pressing into their 
 country with his entire force the Lolos divided into two 
 parties. One went south by a small road and commenced 
 pillaging and burning Chinese villages just outside of the 
 city of Ningyuenfu, and came almost beneath the very walls 
 of the city. The city gates were kept closed and the mer- 
 chants and citizens took their places on the walls, with clubs 
 and stones to defend the city, should an attack be made. 
 Another band of Lolos attacked the small town of Mienshan 
 three days to the north. Thus the General was forced to 
 return and defend these places, and the Lolos again retired 
 to their strongholds. This is the kind of thing that goes 
 on all the time, Meares went out and got some photos while 
 they were looting, and watched the operation from a secluded 
 point on one of the hillsides of Ningyuenfu. 
 
 In a few days all was quiet again, but many disturbing 
 rumours were afloat. In the midst of such rumours and 
 excitement the Rev. R. Wellwood and his wife have lived for 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 the last six years, until relieved on the eve of their departure 
 on furlough by Mr. and Mrs. Rudd, who are still holding on 
 and doing good work, in spite of the turbulent atmosphere 
 in which they live. Some French fathers have been toiling 
 for years in this valley so full of eruptions. 
 
 Meares' journey back to Chentu was without event until 
 he reached Chingchihsien, where he met the Nepalese Am- 
 bassador. I give his story in his own words : — 
 
 " I could get no quarters in the town, so went to a small 
 hovel higher up the street, and after my meal I went and 
 called on the Ambassador, whom I found to be a very 
 pleasant old gentleman and who spoke perfect English. 
 
 "Next morning I started off with mycooiles before daylight, 
 and on going to the door to see them off I found the Am- 
 bassador waiting to see me. He wore a long silken kaften, 
 and wound round his head was a sacred scarf, which barely 
 covered a golden plate, bound to the top of his head. He 
 was attended by one Gurka, who held a saddled horse. He 
 immediately approached and embraced me, and began to 
 cry bitterly, saying that he was dying. He declared that 
 the Chinese were conspiring to poison him, and had been 
 drugging his food for several days past ; then finally, during 
 the night, they had been trying to kill him with chloroform. 
 He threw himself on my protection, and asked that I should 
 take him to the British Consul at Chentu. Inducing him 
 to come into my inn I tried to soothe him, and after a few 
 minutes some of his Gurka officers arrived, but as soon as he 
 saw them he seized a pistol and tried to shoot them. With 
 some difficulty I managed to get the pistol from him and 
 quiet him. A little later a Chinese official came to call, but 
 he at once seized a large hammer that was lying in the room 
 and tried to kill him. Just managing to catch the Ambassador 
 in time I tried to pacify him until we got the official safely 
 out of the house. After the official left he grew much quieter, 
 
 334 
 
HE AUTHOR IN CHINESE 1)K1>- 
 
Rescue of the Survivors. 
 
 and told me many interesting things about himself and his 
 country. Now that he seemed more composed I slipped 
 out of the room and went to the telegraph office to send a 
 wire to the British Consul at Chentu, stating the case and 
 asking what steps I should take, saying that the Ambassador 
 insisted on returning with me to Chentu. I received the 
 reply that the Consul had left Chentu. Going down to the 
 inn where the Ambassador was lodging I found his officers 
 in a great state of agitation. They could only speak Hin- 
 dustani ; but fortunately I was able to talk to them, and 
 found them all very nice men ; they said that they were quite 
 sure that the Ambassador had quite gone off his head, and 
 that they could do nothing with him. 
 
 " After a lot of consultation we decided to telegraph to 
 the Maharajah of Nepal, asking him for instructions. So I 
 wrote out a long telegram, saying that the Ambassador had 
 become strange, and insisted on coming to Chentu and aban- 
 doning the expedition. 
 
 " On taking the message to the office the clerk said that 
 he did not know where Nepal was, or how much the telegram 
 would cost, until he received particulars from Chentu. I 
 got the officers to come up to my inn to see the Ambassador ; 
 they told him in my presence that no one ever thought of 
 poisoning him, and all swore that they would protect him with 
 their lives, saying that ' if he insisted on leaving the mission 
 they would never dare to return to Nepal, and that they 
 would all disperse and become religious mendicants.' After 
 a lot of persuasion the Ambassador agreed to do what I re- 
 commended, and finally decided to continue his journey to 
 Dachienlu, where he would find other Europeans. So I es- 
 corted him back to his inn, marching down the street arm- 
 in-arm, and stayed with him till late at night. He gave me 
 some presents and a photograph of himself, and begged me 
 to take any of the ponies I fancied ; but I insisted I was leav- 
 
 ( 1 1243) 337 '' 
 
sport and Travel on the Tibetan Steppes. 
 
 ing the country, and did not need any of them. They were all 
 most anxious that I should accompany them on their journey 
 along the southern road to Lhasa, where they were to stay 
 a month before going on to Katmandu. It was the chance 
 of a lifetime ; but I had other work to do and had to refuse 
 their offer, and slipped back to my inn. Next morning, 
 starting off early, we climbed the great pass, which was 
 covered with snow almost from the bottom. The top was 
 a sheet of slippery ice, and both myself and my pony had 
 many bad falls. However, we crossed without accident, 
 and continued our march to Chentu, where I stayed in the 
 hospitable home of Mr. and Mrs. Fergusson's. 
 
 " A few days later Mr. Fergusson returned from Mapien, 
 saying that the coffins were on their way, and would arrive 
 in a few days. So we made all the necessary arrangements, 
 and when word came that they were approaching the city 
 we went to meet them at a large temple, one mile outside of 
 the city gate, where the officials had made arrangements 
 for receiving them. Every respect was shown, and they 
 insisted on having it carried overland with escort, with all 
 the honours that is usually paid to their high officials. Next 
 day the funeral took place in the foreign cemetery, a beautiful 
 place a few miles from Chentu, I felt this was, indeed, a sad 
 ending to all our hopes and the projects we had made to- 
 gether, and I had lost my best friend." 
 
 It only remains for me to add that the Rev. H. H. Taylor 
 of the Church Missionary Society conducted the funeral 
 service. A stone engraved with the words " Lieutenant 
 /. W. Brooke, F.R.G.S., killed by the Lolos on December 24, 
 1908," marks the spot where his body rests. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Acree, 190. 
 
 Angling, Chinese method of, 229. 
 
 Anning River, the, 291. 
 
 Antediluvian animals, 56. 
 
 Assance, Father, 50, 51. 
 
 Baram Tsaidam, 26, 27, 28, 38. 
 
 Baran Tsaidan, v. 
 
 15archonku, 221. 
 
 Batang, 33, 209, 223, 305. 
 
 Bati, 125, 200. 
 
 Bawang, 125, 200. 
 
 Bridge, a primitive chain, 230. 
 
 Brine wells, 67. 
 
 Black Bones, the, 324, 325. 
 
 Blockhouses, Chinese, 289. 
 
 Bonba Cuh, the, 242, 249,. 
 
 Brahmaputra River, the, v, 7, 43. . 
 
 Brooke, John Weston, birth of, iv. 
 
 in the Boer War, iv. 
 
 goes to East Africa, iv. 
 
 made a Fellow of Royal 
 
 Geographical Society, iv. 
 
 obtains commission in the 
 
 regular army, iv. 
 love of beauties of Nature 
 
 shown by, viii. 
 interview with Dalai Lama, 
 
 meets Mr. C. H. Meares, 7. 
 
 forced to retrace his steps, 
 
 7- 
 friendship with a Mongolian 
 
 Chief, 7- 
 
 meeting with Dr. Taffel, 9, 
 
 13- 
 
 attacked by a Tibetan, 13-4. 
 visit to Chinghiwang, 21-3. 
 through snow and wind, on 
 
 the road to Nachukha, 33-9. 
 
 Brooke, John Weston, forced to re- 
 trace his steps, 42. 
 snowblindness, 45, 47- 
 
 impression of Missionary 
 
 work in China, 51. 
 
 starts on his journey witli 
 
 C. H. Meares, 54. 
 ■ visits a coal mine, 63. 
 
 leaves Chentu with Meares, 
 
 263. 
 
 enters Lololand, 299. 
 
 survivors' story of the 
 
 mrder of, 306-14. 
 
 effoits to recover body of. 
 
 328-9. 
 
 funeral of, 338. 
 
 ■ gravestone to, 338. 
 
 Buddha, the incarnation of, 227-8. 
 Buddhist monasteries, 254. 
 Budorcas, sec Takin. 
 Burnham, Major, influence on Mr. 
 
 Brooke of, iv. 
 Butter, Tibetan, 190. 
 Calcutta, V. 
 
 Camels, purchasing, 23-4. 
 Cassels, Bishop, 52-3. 
 Caves on the road to Chiating, 
 
 270-4. 
 Chala, 209. 
 
 Changku, 165, 237, 241. 
 Chang Ming, the, 85, 126, 133. 
 Chantwei, 209, 211, 212. 
 Chentu, 57, 64, 68, 71, 72, 74, 77, 7S, 
 
 83, 84, 87, 105, 117, J25, 136, 154, 
 
 199, 237, 246, 262, 292, 305, 329, 
 
 331. 334, 337- 
 Cheoser, 182, 183. 
 Cheti, 153. 
 Chiang Tsui, 232. 
 
 339 
 
Index. 
 
 Chichen, 49. 
 
 Chiefs, intermarriage among the, 
 
 256. 
 Chienliangshan, 109. 
 Chiku Pass, the, 154, 162. 
 "Childfish," the, 277. 
 China Inland Mission, the, 222, 326. 
 China, Non-Chinese in, 326. 
 Chinese attempts to subdue the 
 
 Lolos, 294-9. 
 Chinese quacks, remedies sold by, 59. 
 Chingchihsien, 281. 
 Chinghiwang, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 
 
 27. 
 Chintouchai, 160, 162. 
 Chintzouchai, 163. 
 Chosschia, 125, 153, 182, 184, 188, 
 
 191, 193- 
 Chowser, 153. 
 
 Chungking, 7, 53, 56, 57, 64, 71. 
 Chupanying, 290. 
 Coal mine, a Chinese, 63-4. 
 Colonel, home of a hereditary, 257- 
 
 61. 
 Coolie, head, responsibility of, 73. 
 Coolies, spring-cleaning the, 245. 
 Coracle, steering a, 182. 
 Dachimpa, 27, 28, 29. 
 Dalai Lama, arrival of, 2-3. 
 preparations for the 
 
 coming of the, 1-2. 
 preparations for visit- 
 
 ing the, 4. 
 
 trade between 
 
 Chinese and, 8. 
 Damba, 125, 165, 177, 178, 179, 182. 
 Damtung, 185, 191, 192, 193. 
 Damtung, Tussu of, 194. 
 Dawo, 205, 206, 212. 
 Demon possession, 253. 
 Dergi, 209, 212. 
 Dichu, 43. 
 Dri River, the, t,3 
 Drozer, 178, 179. 
 Drukagi, 125, 154, 159, 170, 173. 
 Duck farms, 64. 
 
 Duck hunting at Yachow, 278-9. 
 Dulan, lake of, 21, 26. 
 
 Elephant, a brazen, 264-9. 
 Fergusson, W. N., Brooke and 
 Meares call on, 72. 
 
 first meets Brooke, 7. 
 
 goes to identify body of 
 
 Brooke, 329-30. 
 
 goes to Loku and hears of 
 
 Brooke's fate, 302-3. 
 
 Fertilising, Chinese system of, 68. 
 Figures found in the Caves, 274, 319, 
 
 322. 
 Fire-water, Chinese, 150. 
 Fleas, a nest of, 130. 
 Foreign Christian Mission, the, 
 
 223. 
 Fox, Mr., 72. 
 
 Gaishechia, 125, 1S5, 201, 203. 
 Gari, 248. 
 
 Gochuang, A, 206, 211, 228. 
 Gold diggers, Chinese, 218, 222. 
 Golok robbers, 16, 27, 28, 134. 
 Golok robbers. Dr. Tafifel and the, 
 
 10. 
 Goral, a pet, 120. 
 Goral hunting, 99-103. 
 Gou, Colonel, 134. 
 Great Gold Stream, 234. 
 Gyantse, 39, 42. 
 Hanchow, 51. 
 Hanchow River, the, 81. 
 Hankow, 7, 53, 54. 
 Hannin, 233, 243. 
 
 Healing the sick, 184-5, '9^ 193-8. 
 Hedin, Dr. Sven, 5, 33. 
 Heiku, 232. 
 Honan and Hunan, emigrants from, 
 
 320. 
 Horba States, the, 209. 
 Horse, a runaway, 161-2. 
 Hsuching, 237. 
 Huili Chow, 293. 
 Hungchio Pass, the, 125. 
 Hunting in the Wassu Forest, 89 
 
 seq. 
 Ichang, vi, 7, 53, 54, 56. 
 Irrigation system, a wonderful, 81-2. 
 Jiapi, 155. 
 Junks, Chinese. 55. 
 
 340 
 
Index. 
 
 Kamsu, 46. 
 Kansu, 52. 
 Kao, Colonel, 134, [44, 146, 157, 
 
 173, 180, 181. 
 Kermer River, tiie 165. 
 Kialing River, the, 52. 
 Kimlung, 191. 
 Kokonor, 6, 8, 16, 20, 46. 
 Kokstom, 31. 
 Kouerhkou, 145, 150. 
 Kumbum, monastery of, r. 
 Kutze, 230, 231. 
 Kwangyuen, 52. 
 Kvvanhsien, 74, 77, 81, 82, 84, 86, 
 
 123, 124, 126. 
 Kwanyin River, the, 203. 
 Kyang, the, 16-18. 
 Lamas, power of the, 254 5. 
 Lamaseries as seats of learning, 
 
 255- 
 Lanchow, 7, 51. 
 Landor, H. Savage, 30. 
 Landslide, a, 131. 
 Lang, Andrew, 323. 
 Lee Ping, 81, 82. 
 Letang, 209. 
 Lhalu, 18. 
 
 Lhasa, 6, 8, 22, 24, 40, 42, 43, 209. 
 Li, 38, 45. 
 
 Li, the centurion, 290. 
 Lianghokon, 244. 
 Lichow, 293, 332. 
 Lifan, 133, 134. 
 Linkon, 233. 
 Linpo, 293. 
 Loku, 293. 
 
 Lolo chief, costume of a, 323-4. 
 Lolo marriage, a, 325. 
 Lolo, origin of name of, 320. 
 Lolo raids, 331-3. 
 Lolo religion, the, 320 2. 
 Lolo, superstition of the, 323. 
 Lolo women, the, 325. 
 Lololand, Brooke enters, 299. 
 Lolos, Chinese attempts to subdue 
 
 the, 294-9. 
 Lolos, origin of the, 293. 
 Lolos, subjected, 289. 
 
 Lolos, wild tales of the, 286. 
 
 Lu River, the, 226, 229, 230. 
 
 Ma, Mr., 126, 129, 209, 210. 211. 
 
 NLacrhkang Cumba, 173. 
 
 Magehulla, vi. 
 
 Mami Chiao, 170. 
 
 Mantze, 206. 
 
 Mantze, origin of the, 247. 
 
 Mapien Ting, 293, 306. 
 
 Marriage, a Lolo, 325. 
 
 Mars, phenomenon connected with 
 
 the planet, 30. 
 .Matang, 84, 144, 163, 165. 
 Meares, C. H., anxiety concerning 
 
 Brooke, 300. 
 goes on a hunting expedition, 
 
 120-4. 
 goes takin hunting, 136, 
 
 goes to Kwanhsien, 77. 
 
 institutes inquiries concern- 
 ing Brooke, 301. 
 
 journey to the frontier, 237, 
 
 seq. 
 
 leaves Chentu with Brooke, 
 
 262. 
 
 ■ meeting of Mr. Brooke and, 
 
 seq. 
 
 VI, 7- 
 
 238- 
 
 returns to Chentu, 334. 
 shooting rapids in a coracle, 
 
 snowblindness of, 112. 
 starts with Mr. Brooke. 
 
 54- 
 
 Miala, 156, 160, 161. 162. 
 
 Miao tribes, history of the, 315-9. 
 
 Mien, 22. 
 
 Mienshan, 293. 
 
 Min River, the. Si, 83, 90, 107, i 10. 
 
 '3-- 
 
 .\Iing-chen Tussu, 227. 
 
 Missionary, luxury imputed to the, 
 224. 
 
 Missionary work, Brooke'^, impres- 
 sions of, 51. 
 
 Mongun, 186, 233, 238, 241, 243. 
 
 Monkey, the golden-haired, 124. 
 
 .Muping, 12;. 
 
Index. 
 
 Murder of Brooke, survivors' story 
 
 of the, 306-14. 
 Mutiny, 24-5. 
 
 Xachukha, 29, 31, 25^ 39) 4°- 
 Xaichi, 29, 31, ;22i A-- 
 Xepalese Ambassador, the, 334-7- 
 New Year, the Chinese, 54, 56, 64. 
 Ngaba, 125, 132, 134, 159, 163, 173. 
 Xgachu River, the, 210, 212. 
 Xglok, 125, 132. 
 Xingyuenfu, 291, 293, 296, 305, 
 
 329- 
 Omei, Mount, phenomenon to be 
 
 seen on, 263. 
 Opien Ting, 293. 
 Opium eating, 151. 
 Orange groves, 60. 
 Ovis am mum, 7, 47. 
 Fame, 221. 
 Panyang, the. 1 13-4. 
 Paomashan, 232. 
 Paoning, 52, 53. 
 Peishuikiang, 52. 
 Pewa Pass, 178. 
 Pollard, Rev. S., 326. 
 Ponies, breaking in the, 48-9. 
 Poppies, yellow mountain, 139, 163. 
 Porchanky, 222. 
 Prayer cylinders, 149. 
 Pringliang, v. 
 
 Rafts for navigating the Ya, 275. 
 Ranga, 125. 
 
 Rapids, shooting the, 123-4. 
 Rengack, 188. 
 Restaurant, a Chinese, 50. 
 Ridley, Mr., i, 2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 12, 51. 
 Rivers, the course of some Tibetan, 
 
 234-6. 
 Romi Changku, 221. 
 Royal Geographical Society, Brooke 
 
 made a Fellow of, iv. 
 Royal Geographical Society's 
 
 Journal, vii. 
 Rudd, Mr., 292, 300, 331, S},^,, 334- 
 Runga, the Princess of, 173. 
 Runga, 178. 
 
 Sakti, the goddess, 104. 
 Sampo River, the, v. 
 
 Sanchiangkou, 122. 
 
 Sechuan, 52, 133, 153, 205, 293, 315. 
 
 Senerh, 15, 24, 25, 28, 42, 44, 49. 
 
 Serow, hunting a, 94-7 116-8. 
 
 Shanghai, v, 7. 
 
 Siaochin Valley, the, 1 54. 
 
 Sifan, origin of the, 249. 
 
 Siho River, the, 8, 9, 133, 144. 
 
 Singau, v. 
 
 Sining, i, 2, 7, 12, 23, 24, 47. 
 
 Siningfu, v. 
 
 Sintientze, 145, 
 
 Siva, the god, 104. 
 
 Sohchiao, 107. 
 
 Somo, 125, 132, 154. 
 
 Songlin River, the, 232. 
 
 Songpan, 84, 86, 126. 
 
 So Tussu, 72, 88, 103, 121, 122, 125, 
 
 132, 173- 
 Stair, D., vi. 
 Strawberries, wild, 225. 
 Suchow, 49. 
 Tacheinhu, 206, 212, 213, 221, 222, 
 
 225, 226, 228, 232. 
 Ta Chin, the, 234. 
 Tachin Ho, 165. 
 
 Tachin River, the, 182, 186, 203, 
 Ta-erh Wang Chen, I63, 164. 
 Taftel, Dr., vi, 9, 10, 13. 
 Taihng, 213. 
 Takin, the, 140. 
 Takin, a pet, 119-20. 
 Takin, hunting the, 129. 
 Tankar, 6, 8, 46. 
 Tangla Pass, the, v, 43. 
 Tapaoshan, 218. 
 Tashi Lama, the, 5, 39. 
 Tassu, monastery of, i. 
 Tawei, monastery of, 177. 
 Taylor, Rev. H. H., 338. 
 Tea, buttered, 10, 148. 
 Tea, children carrying loads of, 281. 
 Tea, traffic in, 214-18. 
 Tent, a Mongolian, 21-2. 
 Tibetan fashion of dressing hair, 1 1. 
 Tibetan rivers, the course of some, 
 
 234- 
 Tongling, 88, 103. 
 
ln(l( 
 
 Tsakolao, 134, 135, 136, 145, 161, 
 
 186, 244. 
 Tsamba, 10, 180. 
 Tsaopo, 106, 113. 
 'Tsinchow, 51. 
 Tsongluca, 238, 241. 
 Tunglingshan, 108. 
 Tung River, the, 227, 230, 330. 
 Uchumi, 49. 
 Urgu, V. 
 Waddell, Lieutenant-Colonel, 16, 18, 
 
 250. 
 Wang, head hunter, 94, 97, 98, 99, 
 
 116,117. 
 Wang, Mr., 134. 
 Wanhsien, 53, 56. 
 Wassu Forest, the, 72. 
 Wassu, State of, 72. 
 Wassukon, 228, 229, 230. 
 Wax insect, the white, 263-4. 
 Weichow, 132, 133. 
 Wellby, Captain, 33. 
 
 Wellwood, Mr., 292, 300, 301, 333. 
 
 Wenchuan, 87, 88, 118, 122. 
 
 White Bones, the, 324. 
 
 Wolfendale, Dr., 53. 
 
 Wolves, surrounded by, ig. 
 
 Wutun, the, 135. 
 
 Ya River, the, 275. 
 
 Yachow, 277, 278. 279, 292. 
 
 Yak hunting, 31-2. 
 
 Yaks, bargaining for, 12. 
 
 Yaks, stampede of, 15. 
 
 Yalung River, the, 227. 
 
 Yangtze River, the, 7, 33, 59, 81 
 
 293- 
 Yinhsiuwan, 84, 119, 122, 124. 
 Youkoh, 125. 
 
 Younghusband, Sir Frank, v. 
 Yueh Hse, 293. 
 Yukoh, 188, 199, 200, 201, 205. 
 Yutung, 232. 
 
 Zechwar, province of, vii. 
 Zipzier, Mount, 188. 
 
LONDON : 
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