University of California Berkeley 
 
 THE PETER AND ROSELL HARVEY 
 
 MEMORIAL FUND 
 
 

THIRTY-SIX YEARS 
 
 A SEAFARING LIFE 
 
 OLD QUARTER MASTER, 
 
 THE SIMPLE TRUTH.' 
 
 PORTSEA: 
 
 PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY W. WOODWARD ; AND 
 SOLD BY LONGMAN & CO. LONDON. 
 
 MDCCCXXXIX. 
 
TO 
 
 SIR PHILIP CHARLES HENDERSON DURHAM, 
 
 K. G C. of the Bath, K. C. of the Military Order of Merit 
 of France, fyc. 
 
 ADMIRAL OF THE WHITE, AND LATE COMMANDER- 
 IN-CHIEF AT PORTSMOUTH. 
 
 HONORED SIR, 
 
 Without pretension to any thing more than a strict 
 adherence to truth, through your condescending permission, 
 I dedicate to you the Narrative of my chequered Life ; which 
 I publish, not without a hope that a Seaman's Story may prove 
 that, in that class of men, there are some who love and feel like 
 others ; that they have hearts which respect, and that they 
 can be grateful for the kindness and consideration of their 
 superiors. 
 
 That an Officer so distinguished in the annals of our 
 country by a splendid career of service, by a life devoted to 
 her well being and interest, and by a kind feeling to the 
 British Tar, should permit me to dedicate this little volume 
 to him, is highly flattering to me : it will ever be considered 
 by me as a proud event in my life ; and with the deepest 
 sense of gratitude, 
 
 I remain, 
 
 Honored Sir, 
 Your faithful humble Servant, 
 
 THE OLD QUARTER MASTER. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 MY EARLY DAYS. 
 
 " Sweet Aubin, loveliest village of the plain, 
 " Where health and plenty blest the frugal swain." 
 GOLDSMITH. 
 
 THE small village of St. Aubin was the place of my birth; 
 situated at the bottom of an open sandy bay, its beautiful 
 prospects and delightful scenery can never be forgotten by 
 those who have ever had the pleasure of seeing it. 
 
 My father, a highly respectable master mariner, at the time 
 of his union with my mother commanded one of the largest 
 ships belonging to the Island ; he had been a widower, and 
 at her death his first wife left him a lovely boy, who, after him- 
 self was named Philip ; this child shortly after the death of 
 his mother was sent into the country to a brother of his 
 mother, and seldom or ever visited us, so that at the age of 
 four years, I was led to suppose myself an only child, and 
 taught to look upon children of equal, if not superior rank as 
 beneath me I was not even allowed to play with them. No 
 care or attention was spared to adorn my person or improve 
 my mind; and by too great an indulgence from the very 
 best of parents, who granted my every wish, my temper was 
 ruined ; and to a mistaken notion of affection, I may attribute 
 many of those evils which have caused the misfortunes of my 
 after years. 
 
 I cannot proceed without laying the contrast before the 
 reader. My step-brother, brought up at a small school in 
 the country where barely reading, writing, and the first rules 
 of. arithmetic were taught, at a very early age taken to sea, 
 
10 
 
 apprenticed to a ship builder in Newfoundland, served his 
 apprenticeship with credit, and when that was ended remained 
 in the same employ ; a few years after became foreman, and 
 when age and infirmity obliged his employer to give up 
 business, he succeeded him; and in 1827, he married a 
 Canadian woman possessed of good property in Bay des 
 Chaleurs, and as he tells me in his last letter, carries on his 
 business and cultivates his acres in peaceful retirement. While 
 I, the pampered, spoiled boy, whose education, trifling as it is 
 has been, cost a great sum, am dragging on life within the 
 wooden walls of a ship of war. How frequently in our 
 way through life may we observe in families, that that child 
 which is brought up with the greatest care suffers most, while 
 he who in his childhood meets with the least attention goes 
 on smoothly, passes over the rough path of life without one 
 tumble, frequently accumulates a fortune while the other is 
 only fit to spend one, and leads a life of poverty and grief; such 
 I sincerely regret has been the case with me ; hut if we, for 
 one moment pause and consider, the ruling of providence is 
 so easily traced in all our concerns, that it becomes a duty 
 however painful, to bow with resignation to our lot. 
 
 Of the first year of my life I have but a confused idea, until 
 when a mere child I was sent to a boarding school, situated 
 about the centre of the Island, where I was instructed in the 
 French tongue the Island French being only a Patois, and 
 being some distance from home and only allowed to go there 
 once a fortnight I was less indulged. I felt the confinement 
 painful at first, but conquered it at last, and in a short time 
 got quite reconciled. 
 
 Of all the inhabitants of our little Island, very few then 
 spoke English, and any youth who was happy enough to get 
 any thing like an English education was considered as some- 
 thing superior to the rest of the Islanders. It is not therefore 
 to be wondered at that my father had no peace until his con- 
 sent was obtained that I should go, if only for a year or two, to 
 
11 
 
 a school in England ; a lady with whom my mother had been 
 acquainted in the Isle of Wight, was written to, a school was 
 soon found in Newport, and my mother herself took me across 
 first to Southampton, thence to Cowes, when after a great 
 
 struggle she left me to the care of a Rev. G. A d, whose 
 
 school consisted of only six boarders and twenty day scholars. 
 The only property which my father was possessed of was fifty- 
 two pounds a year in the Bank of England, a small house, 
 and twenty-six acres of land, besides his pay as a master of 
 
 the ship ; take all together the income was genteel and 
 
 competent ; but my board and education (thirty-two pounds 
 per annum, besides books, clothing, &c.) was a terrible draw- 
 back on it. Injustice to my dear departed parents, I must 
 say they would have thought no privation too great to con- 
 tribute to my education and comfort. I was delighted with 
 the idea of an English school, little considering the new scene 
 of life I had to commence; I well recollect that before leaving me, 
 my poor mother, calling the maid aside, gave her a one pound 
 note, bidding her to be kind to her poor boy, and the girl 
 promised, and faithfully kept that promise, and stood my friend 
 through the whole time of my residence in the school. Of all 
 the scholars, not one spoke a word of French ; the little 
 English I had learnt in Jersey having only been picked here 
 and there, I seldom used, and whenever I spoke it only raised 
 a laugh at my expence, and for some weeks I was really 
 miserable ; the boys too, bent on mischief, if they knew the 
 master out of the way would plague and vex me in order to 
 make me speak English, and then laugh at my foreign accent. 
 That, like most other cares of youth, time overcame, and at the 
 end- of two years, when the order arrived for me to be removed 
 to Southampton, I heard of it with regret. 
 
 At Mr. 's, my situation was very different, and for a 
 
 time far less comfortable than it had been at Newport ; Mr. 
 
 W 's was a very large school, nearly one hundred boarders 
 
 and above eighty day scholars ; most of them were older than 
 
 B 2 
 
12 
 
 myself and many of a superior rank, who from being parlour 
 boarders (one of the greatest errors of boarding schools), took 
 no notice of me, or if ever they did only laughed at my foreign 
 accent one, only one treated me with kindness and to him 
 I am indebted for many, many acts of friendship. I at last 
 got reconciled to this place, also soon improved with my 
 English, and in December, 1801, when the time appointed for 
 
 my leaving school arrived, Mr. W , told me I had improved 
 
 far beyond his expectation ; Indeed the care and attention 
 
 bestowed by Mr. and Mrs. W , on the comforts and 
 
 education of the scholars reflects the highest credit on the 
 school, (academy was then a name seldom used), the march 
 of intellect had not reached so far as it has of late years. 
 
 Free from the rigid confinement of a school, it was some- 
 time before I could fix my inclination upon any thing for my 
 future life, particularly as my dear mother's hopes ran high. 
 It was her wish that I should go into a counting house, and 
 as a preparation for it, I was placed in the shop of an old aunt 
 of mine who dealt in the general line in a wholesale way ; here 
 I should perhaps have passed my time agreeably enough, but 
 that this aunt had an only daughter, about my own age, who 
 like me was a spoiled child ; there was no peace between us, 
 ever at war, which could seldom be settled without great 
 trouble to both our parents, and only ended to recommence 
 the first favourable opportunity ; in a few months I returned 
 home tired of shop and shop book. 
 
 About this time my father having left his employers, went 
 to America where he purchased part of a vessel in which he 
 traded to the West India Islands; with very little con- 
 sideration, I made up my mind to go out to him ; all my 
 friends seemed to approve of my going, saying that America 
 \vas a fine field for a youth with abilities to make his w r ay 
 through. There was then laying at East Cowes, a brig bound 
 to Boston, a passage was soon agreed for, my mother paid 
 fifteen pounds sterling to have me taken across the Atlantic, 
 
13 
 
 provided me with every thing I could possibly want, and 
 fearing I might be captured by an enemy, sewed nine guineas 
 in a ribbon to stow away in safety. 
 
 Never, oh never can I forget the moment of parting, it 
 was early in January, 1803, I was to join the packet at a 
 neighbouring town ; the sun rose bright, but our hearts were 
 heavy and full of grief; after an evidently sleepless night we 
 sat down to breakfast, very little was eaten, and not one word 
 spoken on either side. The time appointed arrived, my poor 
 mother endeavoured to give me some parting advice, but her 
 voice became choked, her heart was too full, and lifting up 
 her hands and eyes to heaven, while her bosom hove with bitter 
 grief, she said, my son may the God of Jacob go with you ; 
 methinks I see her at this very moment ; I could hear no 
 more, with an agony of grief not to be described, I left home, 
 peaceful, happy home, and before I completely recovered the 
 faculty of thinking, I found myself on board the Hero on my 
 way to England ; none but those who like me have known the 
 luxuries of a home, can feel as I did at my first leaving it, and 
 although years have passed unheeded by, and many a heart 
 that then was gay now soundly sleeps in the grave, still I can 
 never forget the comforts of early days. 
 
14 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 A WINTER AMONG THE INDIANS AT THE BACK OF 
 NEWFOUNDLAND, IN THE BAYE DU DE&ESPOIR. 
 
 EARLY in May, 1803,, I landed on Long wharf Boston, North 
 America, and very soon found my way to the house of the 
 person who was- part owner of the vessel in which my father 
 was then sailing, and to whom I had letters of introduction 
 and recommendation; I found the gentleman, a venerable 
 looking old man, engaged in the hardware business, who 
 received me with great kindness, informed me that my father 
 was gone to Martinique and was not expected home till 
 August 5 but, continued Mr. B, your father and myself are 
 partners and friends, you must remain with me till his return, 
 when you can both make up your minds as to your future 
 prospects. With this highly respectable family I soon became 
 at home, and was treated as if I had been one of them. I regret 
 to say that I did not look forward to the return of my father 
 with that pleasure which might be supposed, for I knew his 
 arrival must remove me from the pleasing family circle in which 
 I was then placed ; I was at that time an entire stranger to 
 my father, not having seen him since I was four years of age. 
 
 In August, the shipping list gave notice that the L was 
 
 arrived at Rodney Island, and was to ride quarantine ; Mr. B. 
 endeavoured to convey to my father the pleasing news of the 
 arrival of his son, took me down with him and I very soon 
 saw my father, much the man I had formed in my mind's eye. 
 I was received with the greatest kindness, and a sincere shew 
 
15 
 
 of affection, and as my father pressed me to his bosom, I 
 could see the big drops chace each other down his manly 
 cheeks ; I spent the whole day with him and on leaving the 
 Island to return to .town I was loaded with presents ; a few 
 days put an end to his quarantine, and as soon as leisure per- 
 mitted he asked me to what profession I felt inclined ; I gave 
 the preference to a seafaring life. In vain the dangers, the 
 cares, and the trials, were pointed out to me in darkened 
 colors, I still adhered to my resolution, and as my father was 
 about to return heme having met with some heavy losses, he 
 promised to look out a ship for me. 
 
 There was at that time laying alongside the wharf a Brig 
 belonging to Newfoundland, the master of which had served 
 his apprenticeship to my father, and was also a distant relative. 
 To this man I was apprenticed for three years, to learn the 
 art, trade, and mystery df a seaman ; it was also agreed that 
 during the winter months, while the brig was gone to market 
 with her second cargo of fish, I should remain in Newfound- 
 land, and keep the books .and attend the stores, but by no 
 means to have anything to dp with the%shing, and to be 
 supplied with gooH clothing, boots, &c. ; and what I now 
 deem a most improper indulgence was given me, that of having 
 my meals with the master of the vessel in summer, and at the 
 agent's table in the winter. 
 
 On the 8th September, 1803, I joined the brig and parted 
 with my father, who during our short acquaintance had by his 
 kind and truly affectionate care rendered himself very dear to 
 me ; I was liberally supplied with every thing needful in the 
 cold climate I was about to face, and at bidding him farewell 
 while the tears were almost streaming from my eyes, he slipped 
 two doubloons into my hand, and with a convulsive grasp 
 departed. I saw him then for the second and last time in my 
 life ; seven years afterwards he died at Messina while master of 
 a vessel, of which he owned a part, a victim to that horrid 
 disorder so prevalent in those ill fated countries (the fever) a 
 
16 
 
 tender husband and an affectionate parent. He by care,, at- 
 tention and sobriety accumulated money ; of which to say no 
 worse I should have taken better care, improved instead of 
 wasting ; he is no more, but his memory still lives in the hearts 
 of his surviving friends. 
 
 Light lie the ashes of the dead, 
 
 And hallowed be the turf that pillows the head of a seaman. 
 
 September 21st, the brig left Boston for Newfoundland, and 
 thus reader commences my seafaring career. My being allowed 
 to sit at the same table with the master, and the many indul- 
 gences he gave me, while it prevented me from feeling so 
 awkward as I should have done had I been placed with the 
 crew, still it in no wise tended to my comfort ; for the other 
 lads jealous of the preference shewn me, exerted all their little 
 powers to make me uncomfortable ; besides the very great 
 injury it did me in after years, for never having been a regular 
 apprentice, and having neglected to obtain that practical expe- 
 rience necessary, I was unfit to take command of a vessel when 
 placed in charge of one. 
 
 A passage of ten days brought us to Jersey Harbour, where 
 as winter was fast approaching and articles specified, I went 
 on shore to commence that new routine of duty I had agreed 
 to undertake; the agent, a most amiable man of retired 
 and serious habits, placed great confidence in me, and treated 
 me with the kindness of a father. The winter in Newfound- 
 land is excessively severe ; during several months the thermo- 
 meter remains almost stationary at 15 below zero; but as 
 I had been there during its gradual approach to that low 
 temperature, I felt it less than I expected. 
 
 The settlement on which I was placed (and which at all 
 parts of the island is called a room) was then one of the first 
 in point of commerce except St. John's ; it consisted of the 
 agenfs house, men's dwelling house and cookroom, stores for 
 fish, provisions, salt, &c., and was situated at the very bottom 
 
17 
 
 of Fortune Bay ; three miles on each side of our room were 
 those of Dartmouth and Pool, the agents of which sometimes 
 visited us ; but even with this accession of company our society 
 was very limited ; our amusements must be mostly with our- 
 selves. Spare hours during the short days of a Newfoundland 
 winter, I dedicated mostly to shooting partridges, hares, and a 
 species of blackbird,, common,, but seldom disturbed, as firing 
 at it is deemed a waste of powder. The long evenings, to any 
 other but me, would have afforded ample opportunity for im- 
 proving the mind, but I was so satisfied with my abilities, 
 that I considered any further progress needless. The first 
 winter passed away almost unperceived, May soon came, and 
 the arrival of the brig gave me the most sincere pleasure, as 
 I not only received letters from my family, but a handsome 
 present of fruit from my master. I expected to have gone 
 on board and for the summer become a seaman, but during 
 the winter months I had made myself so useful to the agent, 
 that he refused to let me go ; but in order to make the refusal 
 sit easy, he promised to give me charge of a shallop just off 
 the stocks called the Nancy, to go from harbour to harbour, 
 collecting dry fish to load the vessels for market ; thus I became 
 satisfied to remain on shore. Towards the end of each year 
 the Chief and about twenty of a tribe of Indians used to visit 
 me, some for the purpose of trading and supplying themselves 
 with articles necessary for winter, the rest of the trib'e, which 
 in all was supposed to consist of about three hundred men, 
 women, and children, remained about twenty-five leagues from 
 us in a deep bay called La baye du desespoir. A small 
 Schooner of forty tons was sent every fall up this bay, to trade 
 with and remain there the whole winter, and in spring bring 
 out the produce of the winter's traffic, as well as a cargo of 
 staves, plank, timbers, &c. for another vessel; an old and 
 faithful servant who could understand the Indians, was always 
 placed at the head of the expedition ; his wages were high and 
 privileges great. During the visits of the Indians to our room 
 
18 
 
 (for what purpose I knew not) I had cultivated the acquain- 
 tance of their Chief, and from him picked up sufficient of their 
 tongue to make myself well understood and to converse pretty 
 well. In the summer of 1806, the old man who had before 
 gone among the Indians, departed this life universally regretted. 
 As winter was at hand, the trade lucrative, it became needfull 
 to replace him, but a great difficulty presented itself in finding 
 a man able to keep accounts, and above all to understand the 
 Indians ; for although some few of them spoke French from 
 having been to Canada, still these were but few, and dangerous 
 to be trusted as interpreters. The agent knew that in both 
 tongues I could do, but justly considered a mere lad too young 
 to be entrusted with a charge so very arduous, particularly as 
 I was wild and very haughty, and my temper far from conci- 
 liating. He therefore used all his means to procure a man fitted 
 to his purpose but without success ; and it was not until he 
 saw the trade he had so long profitably carried on likely to die 
 away, or drop into other hands, that he made me the offer to 
 go ; sulky, because I thought I ought to have been offered it 
 first, I refused, and at last only consented on condition that 
 the wages allowed me during my apprenticeship should be 
 doubled ; the agent situated as he was, could not refuse. 
 
 The Kite, a schooner of 42 tons was immediately loaded with 
 articles of traffic, such as blankets, rum, bread, flour, powder, 
 a few fowling pieces, &c. ; a sufficient stock of provisions was 
 also put on board for myself, two carpenters, one cooper, 
 two sawyers and a lad, in all seven. I was far too young to 
 be trusted, a mere lad of seventeen ; I felt pride and pleasure 
 at seeing myself at the head of affairs, and upon the whole, 
 acquitted myself far better than even my best friends expected. 
 Indeed during the whole course of my life I observed that 
 the more responsibility is placed on any man, whether old or 
 young, the less likely he is to break it, and the more powerful 
 the inducement to fulfil his duty. 
 
 Such was the case with me, as I looked round me and felt 
 
19 
 
 the confidence reposed in me ; a glow of pleasure, a sensation 
 not to be described filled my bosom, and strengthened my 
 desire to do all for the good of my employers. Early in 
 October, 1806, I left Jersey harbour, and four days after 
 dropped anchor at the very bottom of the bay, abreast a large 
 grove of birch, spruce, and fir, almost in the middle of which, 
 in a semicircle, were placed the numerous wigwams or huts 
 of the Indians. 
 
20 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 INDIAN VILLAGES,, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS. 
 
 THE vessel had only been anchored a iew minutes when the 
 Chief, his wife, and two other persons came alongside. Sensi- 
 ble that I had at least eight months to remain with these 
 people, I considered it an imperious duty to treat them well, 
 and by all just means to gain their friendship ; I therefore 
 asked them to come on board. At first they seemed surprised 
 at the appearance of a stranger, and seemed as if they expected 
 to see some one else : but after a short time in which I gave 
 the Chief a knife ; his wife, a blanket ; and a young girl, his 
 daughter, some ribbon, we became friends, and as I knew 
 that these Chiefs exercise over their tribes the most unbounded 
 authority, I considered I had nothing to fear from their 
 treachery. But in order to cement the friendship so strongly 
 that it could not be broken, I determined as soon as possible 
 to smoke the calumet or pipe of peace with them, and eat 
 under the roof of their huts ; for as the Arabs of the desert 
 consider a man who has once eaten of their salt as under their 
 immediate protection so it was then with these Indians, a 
 man who had once eaten and smoked with them, was as safe as 
 if he were in the Bank of England. 
 
 In the evening when I went on shore to the wigwams of 
 the Chief, I told him that I was hungry and desirous of smoking 
 with him ; my desires were soon gratified, all who were in 
 
21 
 
 the hut were seated on the ground; an immense pipe was 
 brought out and filled by the Chief, who was seated near me ; 
 with great gravity he took a long whiff, allowing the smoke to 
 issue from his nostrils, and then passed it to me ; though I de- 
 tested smoking then, as I do now, I took the whiff which I felt 
 convinced would insure my safety, and passed the pipe round. 
 This part of the business over, some deer's flesh and cakes made 
 by the Squaws (not perhaps in the cleanest way, and baked 
 in an iron pot), were brought round, all ate and all were 
 friendly ; and during the whole of my stay they endeavoured 
 to make me as comfortable as possible. 
 
 Near the centre of the village, if I may so call it, a space 
 was cleared of trees and our house, which consisted of boards 
 brought with us, was soon built. It was large, and like all the 
 houses of the outports of the Island, it had bed cabins round 
 the sides, except in one corner which was made into a little 
 room for me to sleep in : at the back, and communicating by 
 a door from my room, was a store in which the most valuable 
 part of the Kite's cargo had been deposited, particularly the 
 rum. Before the end of October the schooner was hauled 
 close in shore, secured to two trees; the men commenced their 
 labours, and as the Indians killed any animal they brought 
 the skin and exchanged it for some of my commodities ; there 
 was to all a stated price, for a silver hair fox I gave 
 42s. a fitch fox 15s., a yellow fox 12s., a beaver, or otter 
 10s., a bear's skin 31s.., for all which they got in exchange 
 bread, flour, blankets, and as no bargain could possibly be 
 concluded without it, a very little rum. Deer were abundant, 
 so much so, that for a four pound piece of salt pork I could 
 most times get a quarter of venison, hares and partridges ; we 
 could shoot almost at our door, so that our living was excellent, 
 our profits great. The Indians were friendly and attentive, 
 indeed at times rather too much so, for it was not at all un- 
 common for us to go to bed leaving several of them round our 
 fire, some sleeping, some talking ; the only door that was 
 
22 
 
 locked was the store, and that merely on account of the rum. 
 The Chief was a frequent inmate of our house, and either at 
 one or the other house we were together nearly every day, and 
 as a small bottle of rum was usually in my pocket I was 
 ever welcome. I cannot say that he had half the greedy 
 appetite for spirits that his people had, on the contrary, I 
 have heard him often express a sincere regret at the many rash 
 acts committed by his men when in a state of intoxication, and 
 although his power was almost unbounded, still this was an 
 exception. Sensible of the troubles attendant upon the im- 
 moderate use of ardent spirits, he was the only Indian I ever 
 knew who could resist the temptation to drink, and knew 
 when he had enough. His brother, a sort of second Chief, 
 would drink until deprived of sense and driven to madness. If 
 once offended it is never forgiven or forgotten ; past injuries, 
 however old, descend from father to son, as property does in other 
 countries. An instance of this occurred while I was at Jersey 
 harbour : a man named Bryan, who at the time I speak of was 
 very old, had many years before been trading with them at 
 some other part of the Island, and during his stay had seduced 
 one of their daughters, it was supposed the sister of the man 
 who was now the Chief; before it was found out Bryan 
 absconded, leaving his unfortunate victim to bear their rage ; 
 what became of her no one ever knew. Years rolled on, Bryan 
 was supposed to have been entirely forgotten, but on the last 
 visit of the Chief to Jersey harbour, he saw Bryan mending 
 some nets ; he recognized his features instantly, and levelled his 
 rifle at him ; one of our men near, touched his arm, altered the 
 direction of the piece, which went off, but missed its object ; 
 in all human probability he saved the life of the man, who went 
 to England to avoid any future consequences. The winter was 
 very severe, the thermometer fell to 11 below zero, but as our 
 house was situate in the midst of lofty trees we felt little of it, 
 with a fine fire of birch constantly blazing on our hearth. 
 The Indians were very fortunate in their hunting expeditions, 
 
23 
 
 and before the winter was over I had well made up to the 
 owners for my double wages. In April, 1807, the thaw began,, 
 the Indians prepared to leave for some other parts, and we 
 commenced loading the schooner with wood, and the produce 
 of our winter's trade. May 8th, the ice broke up and floated 
 down towards the mouth of the bay; on the 13th, I bade 
 farewell to the friendly tribe, and left them with a firm promise 
 of again visiting them next winter. The Chief, at parting, gave 
 me a large bear's skin, and his daughter, a lovely Indian girl 
 of eighteen, gave me two silver hair fox skins. Favoured with 
 a fresh breeze on the 16th, I again anchored in Jersey harbour, 
 saw the agent, who not having heard a word of our proceedings 
 during the winter was highly pleased at my account, promised 
 me a handsome present as soon as the vessel was discharged, 
 if my furs turned out as good as I had represented them : skins 
 examined and aired, I got the promised present, which was a 
 very genteel suit of clothes and twenty-four dollars, being as 
 I was told a reward for my care and attention. 
 
 How often, looking back on those days, have I thought what 
 a beautiful opening it was for ayouth,amere lad; confidence, the 
 most unbounded was reposed in me, and with little care and 
 attention I might have risen in the world to comfort and 
 affluence ; but I know not how it is, there certainly is <f a tide in 
 the affairs of men/ 5 for which ever way I steered, some cur- 
 rent's thwarting force seemed to set against me. 
 
 Summer, ever short in Newfoundland soon passed away, 
 and I felt no sorrow when the time arrived for me to prepare 
 for winter quarters among the Indians ; so easily is the mind 
 of man adapted to particular circumstances, that I anticipated 
 great pleasure from seing old faces again, which a year or two 
 before I should have seen with fear if not disgust. 
 
 A new Schooner of 40 tons, called the Woodman, had been 
 launched during the summer, I was desired to join her, and 
 on the 7th October, 1807, I again arrived at the old spot of 
 commerce, and found things much as I had left them ; the 
 
24 
 
 reception I met with was pleasing,, more particularly from the 
 Chief, who taking my hand shook it heartily,, saying in French 
 which he spoke well, " thou art come,, thou art come,, and I 
 rejoice to see thee." His dress was much improved since last 
 year ; indeed commerce with us seemed to have been attended 
 with good on both sides. All remained very comfortable till 
 March, when animals becoming scarce, the Chief and a party of 
 his best men, leaving his brother in charge, went on a hunting- 
 excursion across the island, but previous to leaving, the Chief 
 aware of his brother's fondness for ardent spirits, had cautioned 
 me against letting him have any. 
 
 The hunters had been gone only a few hours, when the 
 brother came to me with abear's skin to get rum ; I toldhim that 
 I had promised his brother that I would not sell a drop during 
 his absence ; and in order to make the refusal sit easier, I 
 gave him a small quantity to drink ; he left me apparently 
 satisfied, but in about half an hour I felt convinced that some- 
 thing was amiss, for I observed the women at the wigwam of 
 the Chief's brother, carrying away the rifles and axes; a certain 
 proof that some dire event was in contemplation. Aware of 
 the danger of irritating a half drunken Indian, I was at a loss 
 how to act, and for one moment felt my charge too heavy ; a 
 little thought however and my determination was formed ; I 
 sent the boy who acted as our cook, servant, &c., to tell the 
 Chiefs brother I wished him to come and drink rum with me; 
 I had my doubts as to how my message might be received, 
 and almost feared for the messenger ; as it pleased God it was 
 given and received in a favourable moment, for in about ten 
 minutes I saw the old man coming with hasty strides towards 
 me ; I presented my hand which was to all appearance cordi- 
 ally taken ; I then told him that I had promised his brother 
 that I would not sell one drop of rum during his absence, and 
 he knew my word was inviolable ; but that as giving was not 
 included in the promise, I would give him as much as he him- 
 self chose to drink ; he was satisfied and very soon availed 
 
25 
 
 himself of the permission by making himself what Jack calls 
 gloriously drunk, and in that state I considered him safest ; 
 thus ended an affair which if not taken in time, might have 
 ended fatally to some of us, possibly to all. On the fifth day 
 the Chief and hunters returned, having been very successful, 
 and every thing resumed its usual course. During both winters 
 of my residence among them I never saw the Chief intoxicated 
 but twice ; a moderate and self command, seldom found 
 among Indians, particularly when spirits (as was the case) are 
 at command and even during those two drunken bouts, 
 although his features and almost his very nature seemed 
 changed, and his wife was afraid to go near him, still his daugh- 
 ter could command and he would immediately obey. So power- 
 ful even among these people is their affection for their children. 
 In order to maintain the ascendancy I possessed over the father, 
 I had always cultivated the friendship of the daughter. Her 
 features, more European than any of the others of the tribe ; 
 her manners in some measure improved from her frequent 
 residences in Canada ; and her appearance superior to all the 
 rest, from the many presents of dress made to her by myself 
 and her father, rendered her an object, where no white females 
 were to be seen, at once pleasing and interesting. 
 
 Early in May, 1808, I told her that I was about to leave 
 her, and most probably never see her again, as I was going 
 home a very great distance ; she burst into tears, and it was 
 with great difficulty I could compose her. During the daily, 
 I may almost say hourly meetings which had taken place, she 
 had never dreamt but our wintry visits were to continue, and on 
 that account looked to spring without fear, because she could 
 anticipate the pleasure of meeting again in the fall. It was 
 not love love could not exist between two beings so differ- 
 ently circumstanced, and whose paths lay so widely apart ; 
 it was esteem arising from many acts of kindness on both sides. 
 But now that the truth seemed to flash across her mind it opera- 
 ted with double force ; I knew that her father had always har- 
 
26 
 
 boured a wish that she should have a white man for her hus- 
 band, but had not the slightest idea till the moment of parting; 
 that his hopes were fixed on me ; if I had; my conduct, though 
 perfectly harmless, would have been different. At parting, 
 as the old man held my hand firmly grasped in his, he said, 
 " why wilt thou go, stay with me, I will protect and feed 
 thee, and thou shalt be my son ?" of course persuasion was 
 unavailing. I had several valuable presents made me, and 
 left them on the llth, and reached home on the 14th May, 
 1808. My traffic had been successful, and my reception 
 was equally kind; indeed the agent had a double reason 
 for being kind to me, the time of my apprenticeship was 
 about to expire, and he wished me to continue in the em- 
 ploy, but his wishes were not realized, for having a good 
 sum of money to take, I was desirous of returning to my 
 family, and requested a passage to England. It was with great 
 difficulty I got the promise, but as I had served my allotted 
 time, it could not be withheld ; a brig, called the Trust, coming 
 for a cargo of oil and salmon, the furs I had collected the winter 
 before, and myself, were shipped in her. 
 
 As it was likely that during the passage, we should come 
 across some ships of war, and I might be impressed ; the ma- 
 nifest and bills of lading were made out in my name, thus 
 insuring my perfect security. Besides eleven on the articles 
 (myself included), we had about ten fishermen, who having only 
 engaged for the season, were returning home as passengers 
 with the earnings of the summer's fishery. 
 
27 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CAPTURED BY A FRENCH PRIVATEER. 
 
 Never despair. That which seems a terrible curse may be a blessing in dis- 
 guise, and ever recollect that that Supreme Beneficence who brought light 
 out of darkness, can at all times render a temporary evil, a lasting good. There 
 is but one region in which man may despair, it is that of which the Poet says 
 " Wherein, who enter, leave all hope behind." 
 
 OLD QUARTER MASTER. 
 
 October 4th, 1803, the Trust sailed from Jersey harbour ; 
 she was very deeply laden, indeed by many considered un- 
 reasonably so at this dangerous season of the year, when gales 
 of wind are so common on the banks of Newfoundland. 
 October 23rd, the vessel was lying to about 10 leagues E. of 
 the banks, when a heavy sea struck her on the starboard beam 
 and completely cleared the decks ; cabouse, boats, bulwarks, 
 binnacle, all went, and worse than all the two men who were 
 at the pump went also ; one of them however got entangled 
 in some ropes and held on alongside till he was dragged in 
 again ; the other poor youth sunk to rise no more, without our 
 being capable of making one effort to save him, for the quantity 
 of water that had gone- below had almost water-logged the 
 vessel ; out of our bread all was damaged, except three bar- 
 rels. Our situation was at this moment extremely critical, but the 
 buoyancy of the cargo in a great measure, under Providence, 
 tended to her safety. Our first care was to ware round, and 
 bring the strongest side to the sea, and if possible bring her 
 upright again, for many of the upper tiers of oil casks had 
 shifted and rolled to leeward ; every hand was exerted to pump 
 
 c 2 
 
28 
 
 her out, and as she made but little water we soon got her free 
 again. Our quantity of bread was so scanty that it became need- 
 ful to come to a very short allowance ; one biscuit per day was all 
 that could be given to each man, and even then it was thought 
 that unless some ship who could assist us appeared, it would be 
 found needful to curtail. Four casks of water had been washed 
 off deck, only three hogsheads remained below, so that of 
 necessity we were obliged to haul short on that also. Now 
 let those who at home are revelling in plenty, and living on 
 all the luxuries of life, for one moment pause and re-peruse the 
 last page. Still amid hunger and thirst I heard no murmur, 
 all were resigned and thankful to that merciful providence who 
 had saved us in the hour of peril. 
 
 November 8th, during the whole of the night it had been 
 blowing heavy ; about 6 A. M. it cleared up and moderated, a 
 stout vessel was also lying too about two miles in the wind's 
 eye of us. I had the morning watch, having kept the master's 
 watch during the whole passage ; on looking at the vessel I 
 made her out a large schooner, and immediately went down to 
 the master and told him there was a man of war schooner to 
 windward. The master jumped up without dressing, took the 
 glass out of the companion, and having eyed her for a moment, 
 dropped the glass and looking at me fixedly, uttered the words 
 a d d privateer John ; the words chilled my very heart. So 
 long absent from my home, and dear family, and to be taken only 
 at so short a distance ; the idea was distracting. Had we 
 been even inclined to doubt, our suspense would soon have 
 been at an end, for the schooner bore up and running under 
 our lee quarter, hailed "brig ahoy " "What brig is that ?" on 
 being answered he again hailed "what is your cargo," and being 
 satisfied in this also, he said again, "haul down your colours Pm 
 a French Privateer;" oh! what a shock. While the Privateer 
 was manning the boat, the master called me to him and addres- 
 sing me said, John if you have sufficient courage you may with 
 ease recapture the vessel, keep your liberty, and save my 
 
29 
 
 clothes and my private venture ; for my part continued the 
 master, I shall be the first man sent out of her, but you can 
 stow away in the hold between the casks and the beams as 
 many of the fishermen as choose to stop, and at night when 
 the Privateer is far away, you may easily regain possession of 
 your vessel. Time was short, but I soon stated the case to 
 the fishermen who seemed willingly to enter into my plan, and 
 seven of them volunteered to stow themselves below, fearing 
 death almost as little as a life of misery in a French depot ; 
 when all was settledandthe privateer's boat came alongside there 
 remained fourteen people on deck, so no suspicion was created. 
 The officer who boarded was quite a young man, of a very 
 genteel, and indeed prepossessing appearance ; his first order 
 was to make haste into the boat as there was a large vessel to 
 leeward which they wished to overhaul ; I was among the 
 number of those ordered into the boat, but on my addressing 
 and begging to remain in the brig, he said tu parle francais, 
 reste id ; an old man and a lad of seventeen were also left, the 
 boat shoved off, taking eleven away, and leaving ten men ; 
 three of us remained on deck, which with seven below, left our 
 numbers equal; the only arms they had brought with them, or 
 at least left, was one cutlass. Before we were boarded, I had 
 taken care to stow away the cook's axe, snug under the windlass; 
 the old man who had remained with me went down into the 
 forecastle for water, and as he was sliding down into the 
 hold, amid the noise of the vessel he could communicate 
 unnoticed with the men there, make them acquainted with the 
 state of things, and that they were to come up the moment 
 they heard three heavy raps, just abaft the windlass. Pro- 
 vidence, as in many other cases favoured our enterprise ; a 
 fresh breeze from N. W. drove us fast towards the coast of 
 France, and sensible of the awkward situation of those below, 
 I determined to make the attempt as early as possible ; the 
 most critical moment was that of coming up, for only one 
 could ascend at a time; consultation was impossible, one look, 
 
30 
 
 one word might have betrayed us ; and the Frenchmen to 
 insure their own safety must have sent us to a watery grave. 
 Night, long wished for, came at last, at 3 p. M. the watch was 
 set, five sent down into the cabin, the other five remained on deck, 
 and were disposed of as follows ; one at the helm, one on the 
 foreyard to look out, the other two talking the deck, the prize 
 master, Mons. Venion, walked the weather side of the quarter 
 deck. I politely told him that if he felt sleepy I would keep 
 the first watch for him, but this he as politely refused, ob- 
 serving it would be too painful for me to direct my own vessel 
 into an enemy's port, but if I would walk the deck with him he 
 would deem it a favour. I had my doubts as to the pleasure 
 I might in the end give him, but said nothing, and continued 
 walking the deck until it was past nine by my watch, and 
 I supposed the watch below sound asleep. I proposed walking 
 forward, and having taken a few turns on the main deck, when 
 in the very act of turning from forward to go aft, I gave the 
 three appointed raps with my feet, saying at the same time, how 
 very cold my feet are. Before I got aft, several of the men were 
 on deck ; when turning round to the prize master, I said, Sir, 
 a few moments since I was your prisoner, you are now mine, 
 I have ten men armed now on the forecastle, see them. The 
 youth seemed stupified, and begged earnestly his life might 
 be spared, of which I assured him there was no danger, if 
 himself and his men went quietly below. On my going aft, the 
 man at the helm seemed doubtful how to act, but the cook's 
 axe civilly suspended over his head directed him, and he walked 
 below, followgd by two more of his companions ; the man on 
 the foreyard seeing the vessel's head yawing about, the sails 
 flapping all round him, thought we had hove his companions 
 overboard, and as he afterwards told me, had a mind to follow, 
 without waiting the more tedious process of our throwing him ; 
 but on being called down, he obeyed and followed the rest 
 into the cabin. Ten men in so small a space as the little cabin 
 were dangerous, as they might plot mischief, so that as soon 
 
31 
 
 as the sails were trimmed, and the vessePs head E. N. E., we 
 passed them one by one into the forecastle, the prize master 
 excepted, who was desired not to leave the cabin ; with the 
 booby hatch well barred, the men we considered safe. My 
 small knowledge of Navigation having been obtained at school 
 was but trifling, for besides want of attention to it, Navigation 
 was then little understood, but I knew that by keeping the ves- 
 sePs head E. N. E., I should strike some part of the English 
 coast, which, it was immaterial to me. The next day a low point 
 hove in sight, which we soon made out to be the Lizard, and I 
 then expected to get into Falmouth early next morning, but 
 about 9, P. M. a large ship appeared about four miles on the 
 weather beam; she soon came down to us, and our fears of her 
 being French were soon dispelled, by finding that she was the 
 
 one of the old frigate built sloops, then so frequent 
 
 about the Channel. On being hailed, I as well as I could, ex- 
 plained our situation, and was ordered to come on board; a boat 
 was sent after me, I took the log book and bills of lading, &c.; 
 the register the master had taken with him. Arrived on the 
 quarter deck, I stood a moment or two without any notice being 
 taken of me, but the Captain coming up, I took my hat off which 
 he desired me to replace, and told me to give him a correct detail 
 of our capture, recapture, &c., for at first he seemed doubtful 
 of the fact. I related the circumstances just as they had occurred, 
 when Capt. said, " why you say, you have ten prisoners, and 
 only ten of you to guard them, and work the vessel too, that 
 is scarcely sufficient, shall I ease you of your care, and take 
 the prisoners ?" Without one moment's consideration, I said, 
 yes sir, most thankfully. How very careful a* person should 
 be before he utters his sentiments on any subject of importance ; 
 it may have been all for the best, doubtless it was, but by that 
 hasty answer, I lost my part of the salvage, the good will of my 
 employers, and ultimately my situation. A boat was sent, 
 and by 1 1 o'clock the prisoners stood on the ship of war's quarter 
 deck ; I Avas desired to say what usage we had received from 
 
32 
 
 them, as, observed the Captain, on the usage you have met with, 
 depends their own. I could not in justice say that we had 
 been ill used, and indeed had it been so, considering their now 
 distressing situation, I could not have said so ; I therefore 
 assured the officer that the short time we had been in their 
 charge, our treatment had been very good. I was desired to 
 walk down into the gun-room, where a comfortable supper was 
 waiting for me. It was left to my choice whether I would 
 return to the brig, or remain where I was ; I preferred return- 
 ing to the brig, the Captain saying, very well, and I will send 
 an officer, and some men to assist in working her into port. 
 I thought it very strange, but attributed it all to the kindness 
 of Capt. - 
 
 On the day following we got into Falmouth, and had but 
 just let go our anchor in Point Maws creek, when the impress 
 boat came alongside ; the officer of her jumped up the side and 
 desired me to send all hands aft. I told him I was not the 
 master, that he was in French prison, and that the vessel had 
 been captured by the enemy, that there was at this moment a 
 naval officer in the cabin ; satisfied there were no hopes for 
 him, the press-master left us. 
 
 Two days afterwards a fresh breeze from N. W. springing 
 up, I went alongside the P. and requested the men and officers 
 might be taken out, as I wished to sail that evening. It is 
 
 impossible to describe my feelings when Capt. told me 
 
 that I could not go till security was given for the salvage, and 
 ended by saying the sooner you write to your owners to that 
 effect, the sooner you will go home. I told the Capt. that at 
 the risk of our lives we had recaptured the vessel, and I deemed 
 it unjust and ungentlemanlike to detain us ; the reply was 
 that he knew it well, but the prisoners having been given up 
 to a ship of war, the salvage became his, and added he, while 
 a haughty smile curled his lip, in love, as in war, stratagems 
 are fair ; so young man the less you say about it the better. 
 Thus ended my visit, and with it my hopes of salvage, on which 
 
33 
 
 I had been calculating. One of the firm soon came, the sal- 
 vage was paid, but all were dissatisfied with me for having 
 giving up the prisoners so easily, and although it was not the 
 slightest loss to them, as the underwriters paid the expences, 
 still that, and the circumstance of my having left Newfound- 
 land contrary to their wishes and interest, operated so strongly 
 against me, that when the owner met me, he began with the 
 most abusive language, and told me I had caused a deal of un- 
 necessary trouble to the firm. I replied, I fear too sharply, that 
 if in this one instance I had given trouble, I had, I said ful- 
 filled my every duty, and considered myself ill used. It all 
 ended with, " your future services will be dispensed with ;" 
 what a blow to a young man just building castles in the air 
 upon his future prospects. Had I given it one moment's 
 serious consideration, and acknowledged an error, I might 
 have saved myself a deal of care and trouble ; but a temper 
 that even in after years I have found it difficult to overcome, 
 ruined me ; or at least I then thought so. I was desired to 
 call at the office for the balance of my wages, and on going 
 there a few days after, I received ninety four pounds without 
 the slightest allusion to the past, Mr. W. just saying the 
 balance in your favour appears to be 94, is this right ? quite 
 so sir ; one single word might even then have set all to rights, 
 but, and now ere I proceed, let me advise that person into 
 whose hands these lines may fall, never, never give way to 
 that worst of all tempers, a sulky one; it embitters your 
 sweetest hours, blasts your happiest enjoyments, and in the 
 midst of comfort makes man miserable. 
 
34 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 LOSS OF A SHIP IN THE WESTERN OCEAN. 
 
 There is no word or action which may not be taken with two hands, either 
 with the right hand of good fellowship, and charitable construction, or with the 
 interpretation f motive or suspicion. All succeeds as it is taken. 
 
 OLD QUARTER MASTER. 
 
 As no hopes remained of my again returning to my former 
 employers, I determined to resume my seafaring life, but before 
 I made up my mind on the subject, I was advised by my friends, 
 as well as some gentlemen who interested themselves in my 
 favour, to state to the committee at Lloyds the circumstance 
 of the capture, and recapture of the Trust. I did so, and got 
 it attested by all those who were concerned, as well as by some 
 of the most respectable inhabitants of the Island, and in about 
 three weeks received an answer, stating that the committee 
 had most honourably voted eighty guineas to be distributed 
 among those concerned, and from the terms in which the letter 
 was couched, little credit was given to the second recaptors. 
 
 I remained at home during the winter without seeking or 
 wishing for any employment : my father had a few months 
 before my return home, purchased one third of a schooner out 
 of Guernsey ; I would gladly have sailed with him, but he was 
 not expected home for above a year; I could not therefore 
 think of remaining that length of time a burden to my family. 
 
 A brig called the E was then fitting out, commanded 
 
 by a first cousin of mine; we had been intimate from childhood; 
 
 he offered to take me as second mate, not much of an office to 
 
 be sure, but such as it was I thankfully accepted it; our cargo was 
 

 35 
 
 wine for St. John's and 'Quebec, and we sailed from Jersey, 
 April 1 2, 1 809. At this season of the year, the weather is usually 
 fine, but the winds prevailing from the West, our progress was 
 slow, particularly as our vessel in addition to being deeply 
 laden was a dull sailer. On the 30th April, we had only 
 reached long. 31 10 west ; a little before noon we observed a 
 strange sail apparently hove too, head to the eastward ; as 
 every thing in the shape of a strange sail was made out a 
 French privateer, it is not to be wondered at that a vessel of 
 that kind should create alarm ; however upon strictly eying 
 her through the glass, we found her a ship very high out of the 
 water, and to look at, any thing but a privateer, and therefore 
 conjectured her to be a ship in distress. The event justified 
 our opinions, for a few minutes after noon she bore up and 
 shewed her ensign union down in the main topmast shrouds, 
 and on hailing, she proved to be a large barque, belonging to 
 the North of England ; that while running free, and at a quick 
 rate the night before, they had struck something which they 
 supposed to be a mahogany bawk (having seen several the day 
 before) and started some of her butts, by which she made a 
 great deal of water. The master of her, begged us to stick 
 by him, and in the event of her leaks increasing, to take them 
 out, and leave her to her fate. As nearly one course did for 
 both vessels, his request was readily agreed to on the part 
 of our master ; there was no loss of time or any thing else to 
 be apprehended, but had there been ever so much, I felt 
 
 assured the master of the E would not have allowed that 
 
 to interfere with saving the lives of his fellow creatures. 
 
 It was just about 2 p. M., the barque was about half a mile 
 in the wind's eye, I was writing the day's log, and the master 
 taking his grog on the lockers, the chief mate asleep, or at 
 least catching boobies, when the helmsman sung out down the 
 companion, " the barque has bore up, and wants to speak to us; 5 ' 
 I had scarce time to close my book, the master to end his grog 
 and run on deck with the speaking trumpet in his Jiaml, when ' 
 
36 
 
 the Master of the barque again hailed, saying the leak increased 
 to an alarming degree, and that he wished us to take him out 
 with his crew, at the same time begging that our boat might 
 be sent to assist in saving some provisions from the vessel 
 before she went down. The master turning to me, asked if I 
 would go, I consented, and a young man whom I much res- 
 pected agreed to accompany me ; the jolly boat was lowered 
 from the stern, and about 3 p. M., I ascended her side, where 
 a scene of confusion I can scarce describe, presented itself to 
 me The crew aware that with a total loss, no wages were to 
 be expected, had not only helped themselves to any thing likely 
 to pay, but also got at the spirits, and several of them were 
 wandering about her decks in a state of mad intoxication. The 
 carpenter particularly was so much so, that when something 
 required to be done on the foreyard, in spite of all remon- 
 strances he would go, had just got on the yard, when down he 
 came on deck, and so much hurt as to be supposed dead ; he 
 recovered, a wonderful memento of the goodness of Providence. 
 Those who could were busily employed in filling our boat with 
 bread, &c., and on the top, the master's cat, trunk, &c. Just 
 as she was full, and I was about to descend into her, some 
 half drunken fellow let go the painter, calling out " there you 
 go my hearty." She got alongside of our vessel, but before she 
 was half discharged, one of those sudden gales, common at that 
 season, sprung up, all hands in both vessels had enough to 
 do to let fly and clue up, and at last furl, so that the poor jolly 
 boat was seen no more. At 4, 30, p. M., our little brig was hove 
 too under closed reefed main-topsail, and the barque under 
 main-trysail, and not the least hope of our getting to her that 
 night, if ever. 
 
 From the account given me by the master of the barque, 
 of the state the ship was in, I felt very uneasy in my mind, 
 and had serious apprehensions as to her keeping-above water 
 all night ; I cannot say that death seemed to alarm me much, 
 but I felt hurt at the manner in which I had got into my 
 
present situation, and firmly made up my mind that all the 
 barques in England might go to the bottom, before Fd go on board 
 of one again ; but upon serious reflection for a moment, I found 
 that our danger was not so imminent as I had at first supposed 
 it to be, and almost doubted whether any really did exist : 
 I was not a thorough bred seaman, but I knew well that a 
 leaky ship must be pumped out; now in the present case the 
 pumps were only used one at a time, the water came up clear, 
 but the pump could lie idle ten minutes at least. About 
 8 p. M., I was invited into the cabin to supper, where I made 
 a hearty meal off some corned beef and potatoes, and in the 
 course of conversation, I hinted to the chief mate my opinion 
 that the ship might be kept above water with a little extra 
 labour. I could see that my hint was any thing but agree- 
 able, for the answer as well as the countenance indicated no 
 satisfaction. " I do not wish to alarm you, young man said he, 
 laying particular emphasis on the word young, but if she hangs 
 together till morning, I shall be thankful." I have no dread of 
 the event said I, and in the mean time I will take a nap; I laid 
 down, but did not sleep, strange ideas filled my head; that 
 something was amiss, I felt assured, but where, was a riddle to 
 me ; in vain I endeavoured to banish the idea, it returned with 
 tenfold force. It blew a perfect gale the whole night, there was 
 on her deck besides her long boat, a fine large skiff which we 
 had got ready to hoist out, when the gale began, and the tackles 
 were still on her and just hauled taut. Self preservation is the 
 first law in nature thought I, I will keep my eye on the skiff 
 at all events. I sincerely felt for our master, who not knowing 
 the extent of our danger, would be in misery all night. Morning 
 came, the pumps had been worked very regularly ; at 7> it 
 became moderate as suddenly as it had risen, the skiff was 
 got out, and by 10 A. M. had made several trips to the brig 
 with bread, pork, rope, sails, &c., water, the veiy thing most 
 needed was forgotten, and which is of great value at sea. 
 The master told me he had made up his mind to be the last 
 
38 
 
 on board of her, and begged that I would go in that boat the 
 last but one, and send her back for him with a couple of men ; 
 he might have gone then had he chosen, however it was not 
 my business. The barque was still under the trysail when 
 we left her, and being then light winds the sail had little power 
 upon a hull of such magnitude; it therefore swung nearly 
 before the wind, and in order to get to our own vessel we had 
 to pass close under her stern. We had passed not more I 
 should say than twenty yards, when I heard a splash in the 
 water, and on looking round, saw her raft port laying flat upon 
 the water ; it had evidently been lashed, for the lashing which 
 had been round the cross piece inside had been cut, and was 
 seen gaping several inches apart. I was not the first who took 
 notice of it, it was pointed out to me by the youth who had 
 accompanied me, who said as he pointed to it, I thought so ; 
 what did you think said I? oh ee nothing, nothing" was his reply. 
 We soon got on board, the boat was cleared and sent back, and 
 the master had been with us about twenty minutes, when the 
 ill fated ship, the once beautiful fabric, gave one roll, fell on her 
 broadside, and sunk in the bosom of the mighty deep. Even 
 when no lives are lost, the impression is awful ; to see a ship 
 sink fills the mind with painful ideas, image of man's destiny, 
 a few short years, perhaps months, or even days, we must also 
 sink into a grave, so many, many of us. 
 
 Our march is on the mountain wave, 
 Our home is in the deep. 
 Painful, yet true. 
 
 Although nothing on her decks remained lashed, for before I 
 left her I had cut boats' gripes, cabouse gripes, all the spare 
 spars adrift ; still as she went down every thing was swallowed 
 up in the vortex of the sinking wreck, leaving a swell that 
 made our poor Ifttle vessel roll gunwale too ; and although we 
 cruized about the spot sometime after, nothing came up, not 
 an oar or a plank appeared above the surface. As we passed and 
 
39 
 
 repassed over the place where an hour before the noble ship 
 swam in all her beauty, the words came to my recollection, 
 a Here Troy once stood." 
 
 During the dinner time as both masters and mates were sit- 
 ting at the table, myself upon the lockers, not having room at 
 table, young and inexperienced, without giving it a thought, I 
 said to the master of the barque, who was expressing his sorrow 
 at the loss of his ship, then sir, why did you cut the sternport 
 away, she might have been picked up? the colour which flew to 
 his face, and the look which our master gave me, convinced me I 
 had said something very wrong; in the afternoon our master told 
 me to mind my own business, and not bother my head about the 
 
 . I felt the rebuke keenly, but said nought, when our 
 
 master seeing how mortified I was, explained to me the danger 
 in which I might have plunged the master of the barque by my 
 remarks. Having neglected the very thing we ought to have 
 thought of first, a supply of water, we were reduced to a very 
 short allowance; one pint per day for all uses, was the most that 
 could be allowed to officers and men ; the wind continued light 
 and westerly, our progress slow. On the 6th day it was thought 
 proper to make a further reduction of water, and half a pint a 
 day was allowed; no chance, of a fresh water wash then. One 
 day while we were sitting at dinner in the cabin, we were all 
 alarmed with an unusual noise upon deck, a confused succes- 
 sion of screaming and swearing; being nearest the door I sprung 
 up the companion, and found that a north country man belong- 
 ing to the barque, had got one of her boys, a very little fellow, 
 fast by the middle and towing him overboard. I snatched the 
 rope out of his hand, hauled the poor little fellow in board, and 
 endeavoured to ascertain the reason of this cruel usage ; but 
 of all the tongues and language I had ever heard, this was the 
 most unintelligible ; the poor boy crying and dripping, and the 
 sailor swearing, and from his threatening manner I suppose 
 vowing vengeance against the boy. The master of the barque 
 came up, and having got the rights of the story, thus interpreted 
 
40 
 
 it to us ; that morning, the poor man having got his half pint 
 of water in a bottle, and wishing to save it for the heat of the 
 day, had stowed it away snug in the very heart of the cable 
 tier, and to secure his bottle had wrapped a jacket round it; at 
 this time all hands were on deck but the said boy, who was 
 apparently enjoying a nap on a chest hard by; at noon the 
 poor feUow wishing to indulge in a drop of water to cool his 
 parched tongue, went down to his store, but alas it was gone, 
 it had vanished. For some moments he determined to throw the 
 boy overboard without ever a rope, but the idea of murder on his 
 conscience induced him to use the rope and thus it was when I 
 came up ; horrid as the punishment may appear, no one that 
 has ever been twenty four hours upon half a pint of water, and 
 on the second or even third day finds that scanty allowance 
 gone, but will feel for the man. Those who have always lived 
 within hail of a running stream, are incompetent judges of the 
 effect of thirst upon the mind; oppressive thirst removes from 
 the heart of man every thing that is good, and implants in its 
 stead evil and horror ; half a pint of water was given to the 
 man, and the affair passed off. 
 
 May 12th, 1809, a large ship hove in sight standing to the 
 eastward under a press of canvass, a signal of distress was 
 immediately made, She just yawed too under our stern, 
 enquired into the nature of our distress, and then hailed " I can 
 give you no assistance." As she passed we saw on her stern 
 Prince W. H. London ; 14th. another ship hove in sight, 
 answered our signal, took all those who wished to go to her, 
 and gave us a supply of water ; and on our offering them a 
 supply of bread, generously refused to take it ; the owner 
 who was on board, observing that we had suffered more and 
 deserved it most. Some days after we fell in with H. M. S. 
 
 then cruizing on the banks, who supplied us still 
 
 further with water and bread ; and although it was then 
 blowing almost a gale at S. W. sea mountains high, still she 
 lowered her boat and sent two bags of bread and two small 
 
41 
 
 casks of water on board ; their exertions were really wonderful. 
 June 8th, anchored in St. John's, and having only 25 pipes of 
 port to leave,, it was soon done. On the 12th, sailed again for 
 Quebec,, and there discharged the wine,, took bread, flour, &c., 
 for St. John^s, where a cargo of fish was ready for us to take 
 home. Sept. 27th, a convoy sailed for England, and under 
 its care we left the harbour, we kept together but a very few 
 days, as just East of the banks we had very bad weather. 
 The last time we saw the Commodore, there were only four of us 
 in his company, and that same night we too lost sight of him, 
 and saw him no more. The weather was such that no human 
 power could keep the ships together ; so we had to make the 
 best of our way home. On the 26th November, we made the 
 Lizard Lights, and hugged ourselves, with the hope of soon 
 seeing those we loved ; but alas how vain are the hopes of man. 
 At dawn of day we were boarded by the privateer, Les deux 
 Freres de Bourdeaucc, and in a very short time I was going 
 with a small bag in my hand up the privateer's side; the master, 
 a venerable old man seeing the tear in my eye, said to me 
 fi don't grieve my friend, your turn to day, to morrow may be 
 mine;" his words were prophetic. The Active, a revenue 
 cruizer soon came up, and the circumstances occurred which 
 are detailed in the following chapter. 
 
42 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 RECAPTURED BY THE ACTIVE REVENUE CRUIZER 
 
 IMPRESSED A TERRIBLE FRIGHT. 
 
 " I still had hope, for hope will stay 
 
 " After the sunset of delight ; 
 
 " So like the star that ushers day, 
 
 " We scarcely think it heralds night." 
 
 BYRON. 
 
 THE Active had been anchored in Mount's bay, and during 
 the night one of her boats being on the Lizard looking out 
 for smugglers, had given intelligence of a privateer; the 
 Active immediately slipped her cable and made all sail after 
 the enemy. For the first three hours the privateer took no 
 notice of Tier, and supposed that the moment she had cap- 
 tured the prize she would relinquish the chase, but they were 
 disappointed, for the Active never hove to, but dropped her 
 boat and proceeded on her course. They then began to fear 
 the result of the chase, ordered all the prisoners below, and 
 as there were many besides ourselves, issued to each of their 
 men a sort of dagger to carry in their bosom, to use as it 
 might be required. 
 
 About noon it fell a perfect calm, and the cutter, who had 
 till then gained on the privateer, dropped astern visibly ; he 
 Frenchman, by working his sweeps had considerable advan- 
 tage ; I could hear from their conversation that our case was 
 almost hopeless. About one, a fine breeze sprung up from 
 N. W., and the cutter gained on them fast, for I heard the 
 oaiccrs say tint a 1 ! the sails of the cutter were asleep while 
 
43 
 
 their's lay useless against the mast 5 it was therefore evident 
 that the cutter was bringing the breeze up with her ; again 
 hope, " sweet soother of the human breast" cheered us. At 4, 
 p. M ., the Active was within half a cable's length of us., and 
 having hailed, the confusion that ensued is beyond descrip- 
 tion ; some threw their sweeps overboard, others laid them 
 across. A small part were for engaging the Active, but the 
 greater part resigned themselves to their fate, and went below 
 to secure a few of their most valuable effects. There was one 
 among the crew who seemed to entertain the utmost dread of 
 capture, he was the boatswain, I verily believe an English- 
 man by birth. Previous to the Active gaining on us he spoke 
 good English, but after capture he entirely lost his English 
 tongue, and not a word but French could issue from his lips. 
 At 5, the beautiful English ensign again waved gracefully 
 over our heads; I felt truly grateful for the blessings of 
 this day. 
 
 The Commander of the Active had taken us on board his own 
 vessel, and told us candidly, that the moment our brig went 
 into port, the gang would visit her, and no doubt take every 
 man fit to serve in the navy; but, added the Commander, any 
 of you who fear being pressed, may remain on board the vessel, 
 and when the salvage is paid, return to your own ; which offer 
 was thankfully received by all but two, who being pensioners 
 had nothing to fear. A few hours brought us to Falmouth, 
 where the salvage was soon settled for, and on the 19th, we 
 sailed for Jersey, where we anchored on the 22nd, and got 
 home to my family just in time to partake of Christmas good 
 cheer. The winter in Jersey, was in those days invariably dull, 
 nothing on the move ; shipping, topmasts struck, unemployed ; 
 it was riot until the return of spring, when trade revived, that 
 the seamen could look forward to employment ; the brig was 
 likely to lie up for some months, and I to be idle. 
 
 For several months great anxiety had been entertained about 
 the fate of my father, and his vessel, as no intelligence had 
 
 D2 
 
44 
 
 been received from him; years had rolled on almost unperceived 
 and unheeded^ since we had parted from each other, and 
 although our time together had been very short, still his kind 
 care of me while with him, his attention to all my wants at 
 parting, had made me love him most sincerely. I determined 
 to go across to Guernsey, and endeavour to ascertain what 
 might have been his destiny, as also for the double purpose of 
 making a tender of my services, to go as chief mate in any 
 vessel in the same employ. I was aware that my father had a 
 great deal of interest with his owners, and that might be the 
 means of my getting master of a vessel much sooner than I 
 should have done by remaining where I was ; but fearing I 
 might be unsuccessful, I said nothing about it, till I knew the 
 event ; I could then withdraw from my present employ with 
 ease. About noon, I landed on the pier at Guernsey, and 
 having just changed my dress, went to the counting house of 
 
 Mess. , but all were gone, and I was directed to the house 
 
 of one of the brothers, who acted the part of working partner, 
 or as it was called ship's husband ; I knocked at the door, and 
 was shewn into a very handsome parlour, where in a few 
 
 moments Mr. entered; a venerable old gentleman, whose 
 
 very look was calculated to inspire confidence and respect, 
 before he uttered a word. In a few moments I felt at home 
 with him, stated to him the motive of my visit, and ended by 
 offering my services to sail in the employ. Having attentively 
 
 listened to all I had to say, Mr, told me, that only a few 
 
 days before, letters had been received from my father who was 
 making a very good voyage, and was not likely to be home 
 that year ; he also assured me, that then there were no ves- 
 sels in want of mates, had there been, I should have had the 
 preference, but at the return of the Amazon I certainly should 
 go chief mate in her. I was very kindly asked to take a glass 
 of wine, which having clone, I left him and determined to remain 
 in my present situation for some time longer. 
 
 There was a very respectable house in which my father and 
 
45 
 
 mother had always lodged on their visit to the Island, there I 
 went and soon obtained a lodging, and there met with my wife. 
 From this visit sprung an intimacy which has continued unin- 
 terrupted for above seven and twenty years : it is now above 
 six and twenty years since our union, and I have always looked 
 back to that day with pleasure. On my return to Jersey, I 
 resumed my former situation, and should have been comfortable 
 enough, but for the inordinate desire of rising ; I could not 
 submit to be under the command of a mate, a desire to be one 
 myself, seemed to embitter all my hours; but even at this 
 . distant period, when Time's ever rolling stream has hurried 
 years by, I feel thankful that those who had the means of gra- 
 tifying my wishes knew far better than myself what was good 
 for me. I had neither age or experience sufficient to be second 
 in command of a vessel where probably no one else could read 
 or write his name, however small she might be; and even now 
 I feel assured that if a correct account of the loss of merchant 
 vessels, and the circumstances attending such loss could be 
 got at, it would be found that two out of five of those vessels 
 were stranded or lost for want of practical knowledge at sea, by 
 the masters and mates of such vessels. Besides, by placing a 
 mere youth on a vessel's quarter deck, in command of a body 
 of men, however small that number may be, it raises his pride 
 beyond bounds, and nine cases out of ten, makes him unfit for 
 his station ; sincerely should I regret to fix a stain on a valua- 
 ble body of men, but has not the result proved the justice of 
 my assertion ? Shortly after my return we commenced loading 
 with salt and Irish provisions for Newfoundland, which we 
 discharged in Burin in June, and took in codfish. During the 
 
 time of our taking in our cargo, H. M. brig R Capt. 
 
 arrived and commenced a heavy press among the vessels laying 
 there. Aware that I should very soon become a victim to the 
 impress, I applied to the agent on shore, who kindly gave me a 
 shipping paper as a fisherman, which in all cases was a sure 
 protection for the whole time it was in date ; the very afternoon I 
 
46 
 
 obtained the paper, the ship of war's boat came alongside, and 
 the officer jumped on board before any one was aware of her 
 approach ; indeed so confident was I in the protection of my 
 paper that I should not have moved, had I seen them coming. 
 The first person he saw was the chief mate, whom without 
 any ado he ordered into the boat; I was at the time just under 
 the hatchway stowing fish, when the Lieut, said "come here 
 my lad, who are you ?" I answered, that I belong to the room 
 on shore, and was sent there by my master to shew them how 
 to stow fish. "You have no business here, jump in the boat, 
 we just want such fellows as you;" I thought my very heart 
 would burst, but I knew there was no chance, but by putting 
 a good face on the matter, so I went into the boat. The officer 
 having examined all hands, found them too old for him, except 
 two apprentices ; these he ordered into the boat, shoved off, and 
 I found myself on my way to a ship of war. Arrived alongside 
 the officer jumped up ; and when we were called, all hands 
 came to have a look at us. I could distinctly hear the remarks 
 passed on us ; one old fellow whose cribbage face, and weather 
 beaten countenance, betokened long service, prophecied that 
 we should be topmates, and then, that we should be forecastle- 
 men, but all their calculation ended in nought. The Captain 
 soon came up, and we were placed before him. I first took one 
 good look at his face, to see if there was any thing in it from 
 which I could form a hope, and if the countenance be the index 
 of the mind, I never saw one I disliked more. His first 
 address was to me. "Well my man, you belong to the ship now." 
 No sir, I am not yet clear of one master, and cannot serve 
 another; "but," said the Captain, " you have no protection ;" I 
 
 then produced my shipping paper, at which Capt. looked 
 
 attentively, and then returned to me. The mate next shared his 
 attention, but understanding that the vessel had above the 
 quantity of cargo required for his protection, he told him he 
 only wished to see his affidavit, which with the boys' indentures 
 was soon brought by the master of our vessel, and in a few 
 
47 
 
 moments we were ordered over the side, an order which we 
 complied with as expeditiously as possible, and I verily believe 
 not one of us in our way looked right or left,, fearful of being 
 .called back ; what a weight it took off my mind; the dread of 
 a ship of war was next to a French prison, but it must be 
 remembered that a ship of war of those days was very different 
 to those of the present day, now, that the service is better con- 
 duc'-d, and the wonderful improvements which have taken 
 place, render the navy superior beyond compare to any 
 merchant vessel. It is possible the pay may be a little less, that 
 I allow, but taking into consideration the regularity of diet, 
 routine of duty, and comfort of the whole system, it makes up 
 for every thing, and pensions for old age. Our cargo was soon 
 completed, we sailed for Cadiz, where fish sold well ; at that 
 time the French had possession of Rota. Spanish boats used 
 to watch for a heavy breeze from the Eastward, and come 
 alongside, purchase a cargo of twenty or thirty quintals, and 
 make all sail out, and by night get into Rota, where they got 
 an immense price for their fish. Some of them were caught, 
 whiie we lay there, but that deterred none of the others, indeed 
 we ought to have been punished as well as them, but as they 
 gave us one dollar more per quintal, 112lbs, we cared little 
 where they took it ; I frequently felt that it was an act of 
 injustice to assist the enemies of our country, but I was a servant. 
 On the 18th of October, we sailed for Jersey ; the vessel had 
 during the last month made much water, so that 011 her return 
 late in November, she was laid up in the piers. I felt an 
 earnest desire to go across to Guernsey, and again learn what 
 expectation there was of my father's return ; that was not my 
 only motive, but that was my excuse. On my arrival at 
 Guernsey. I found that several letters had been received, but 
 that the Amazon was not expected home that year at least, so it 
 was thought, if she was found seaworthy : again I returned 
 home, and soon again sailed for Newfoundland, with a cargo 
 of wine. On the passage out a man named Peter Anderson, 
 
48 
 
 doing something on the starboard foretop-sail yard arm fell, and 
 coming down, went through the booby hatch into the forecastle 
 and was dead in a very few minutes ; he was a most horrid 
 swearer and reprobate. Some noises heard in the forecastle, 
 most likely the rattlings of blocks, induced the seamen to 
 suppose the forecastle was haunted, and that the ghost of 
 Anderson was holding his nightly visit, where his body had 
 met with its death ; nothing was kept there but water casks, 
 spare rope, and vessePs store. Our men messed just before 
 the cabin ; as soon as this opinion became prevalent, no con- 
 sideration could induce one of them to go down there after 
 night, and as little as possible in the day time, so very little 
 affects the weak minds of seamen in general, unless polished 
 by education. 
 
 A circumstance occurred some time after which would have 
 caused a deal of uneasiness had it not been cleared up. One 
 evening, about seven o'clock, the maintop-sail reef tackle was 
 carried away, and a piece of rope was required out of the 
 forecastle to repair it, but who was to go down became a 
 matter of discussion. I was aloft at the time, but came down 
 
 just in time to witness a man named N going down ; he 
 
 was an old man-of-war^s man, and prided himself upon his 
 superior courage and seamanship, and completely carried the 
 sway over those, who, as he observed, had never learnt 
 manners in a man-of-war. He went down, but I suspected 
 only half his courage was sound, the other moiety of it was 
 doubtful, time will show, thought I ; only a few moments had 
 elapsed from his head being out of sight below, when it again 
 re-appeared, but it was no longer the same ; his countenance 
 pale, and his hair like bristles. All his appearance pourtrayed 
 the utmost consternation ; springing over the windlass, he ran, 
 or rather flew to the master who was sitting on the hen coop 
 abaft, in a thoughtful mood, and putting his hand upon his 
 shoulder, " oh master, master, the d 1 is in the forecastle, I felt 
 him as -sure as you sit there ;" "is he," said the master? " I 
 
49 
 
 must see/ 5 and walked forward but did not evince the slightest 
 wish to go down. 
 
 Sensible of the ill effect of such opinions prevailing, for all 
 hands would have left us, and most of them from pride, to shew 
 my courage,, a great part of which was assumed, I said, " well, 
 if you are all afraid to face this gentleman, I will go and have a 
 peep at him ;" I went down, but it was with fear and trembling, 
 and before I was well down a profuse perspiration covered my 
 body. But the horror that thrilled my very frame, when 
 on going to the spot where the rope was stowed, my hand 
 rested, not on rope but on a smooth hairy skin, quite warm. 
 I staggered back, and should have gone up to confirm N '& 
 statement, when a low moaning noise met my ears, and 
 attracted my attention, and I found with real delight that it 
 proceeded from Juno, a large Newfoundland dog, who by 
 some accident had tumbled down the hatch and had not been 
 missed. Delighted with the end of an adventure which I felt 
 assured would reflect much credit on my courage, I hurried up, 
 and laughing, said, " well you certainly are a sensible set of 
 fellows, to be frightened at an old Newfoundland dog ;" 
 surely they never taught such courage as that in a ship of war. 
 The dog was got up and the affair passed over ; it had, 
 however, the double effect of giving me a character for courage, 
 and removing the idle fears of the sailors, or if any remained, 
 they were ashamed to show them. 
 
 December 18th, arrived in Jersey; during the voyage the 
 Captain and myself had very much disagreed, so much so, that 
 I determined never again to sail with him, and although he 
 was nearly related to me, I must candidly confess that every 
 particle of the fault was mine, for during the whole of my 
 service with him he treated me with the greatest kindness ; 
 but a certain unconquerable temper caused us to disagree. 
 I had the happiness of finding all my family well, and found 
 several letters from Guernsey, waiting my return ; just then 
 my mother expressed a wish that I should seek a wife, and 
 
50 
 
 had fixed her eye upon a distant relation, an amiable girl, 
 possessed of property, to whom she wished to see me united ; 
 but as every eye forms its own beauty, and every heart its 
 affections for itself, I refused her offer, considering it a privi- 
 ledge due to myself in so momentous a case to suit my own 
 wishes. 
 
 Determined not to sail again in the Esther, and if I could 
 avoid it, in the same employ, I hastened across to Guernsey, 
 in the sincere hope the arrival of the Amazon would give me 
 an opportunity of getting chief mate ; but as before, my hopes 
 were disappointed, and I returned to Jersey, oppressed with 
 care and fears for my future prospects. I had been back 
 about a week when the painful intelligence arrived of the death 
 of my father, who had fallen a victim to the fever then raging 
 at Messina, in Sicily ; out of every man on board, only two 
 survived the distressing disorder. To me it was a severe shock, 
 and doubly so to my poor mother, who took it veiy much to 
 heart. At first it was conjectured that some poison had been 
 administered to them, but upon a strict examination it was 
 ascertained that the fever had caused their deaths. Painful 
 indeed must have been their last moments, for such was the 
 fear of infection, that of all the vessels that were attacked with 
 it, no one would venture on board. The most powerful rewards 
 could tempt no one to administer succour in the painful 
 moment to the afflicted there they must live or die as it 
 pleased the Almighty to dispose. Medicines were sent off, and 
 passed on board in a square copper kettle, having a long 
 chain to it, similar to those used in our quarantine grounds ; 
 the end of the chain was thrown to any one on deck who 
 might be able to haul it in, the medicines, &c. taken out, and 
 the kettle well washed overboard before it was taken into the 
 boat again. 
 
 Sincerely did I mourn the loss of my father, for the many 
 acts of affectionate kindness I had received from him, during 
 our short meetings, had rendered him dear, very clear to me ; 
 
51 
 
 had there been nothing else, his general character and the re- 
 spect in which he was held by ah 1 who knew him, was a credit 
 to his memory. As a token of respect from the owners of the 
 Amazon, and several other gentlemen of the Island, a very 
 handsome marble slab was engraved with his name, age, &c., 
 at the top was a weeping willow, with a tomb, over which 
 leaned a female with a child in each hand, and under, some few 
 lines of poetry. The stone was sent out, but the Sicilians 
 deeming heretics unworthy of so pleasing a memento, forbade 
 its being put down : it mattered but little to the dead, but to 
 his surviving friends it would have been gratifying ; he is no 
 more, his toils and sorrows are over, gone ( * to that bourne from 
 whence no traveller e'er returns. " I trust we may meet in 
 realms of happiness where all cares end and all are equal. 
 
 On opening the will, which for years had been in the 
 possession of my mother, it was found that two-thirds of his 
 property had been left to his widow ; the other third was to 
 be divided between myself and elder brother. I felt really 
 pleased that the young man had not been neglected, for I 
 knew from his general character that he was well worthy of it, 
 and not only that, but I was aware it was his just due, and to 
 have taken any share, however small, beyond my own, I should 
 have deemed an act of injustice. The house and land had 
 long before been sold to make good some losses in North 
 America. On a division it was found that our share of the 
 property would amount to 250 each, in the three per cent, 
 consols : to me, who had never before possessed such a sum, 
 it raised me far more than it should have done, and upon the 
 whole did me but little good. I again waited on the owners, 
 and got a promise that the moment the Amazon returned, I 
 should join her as chief mate. 
 
 February 4th, 1812, the vessel arrived on the piers, and in 
 command of Mr. C. who had been chief mate with my father; 
 from him I got the clothes, nautical instruments of my father, 
 as also his watch ; and, as the vessel was now to be laid up, I 
 
52 
 
 returned to Jersey. There was in my conduct at that time a 
 great want of confidence in my mother, who had not the 
 slightest idea that I intended to marry, and aware of the power 
 she had of persuading me, I did all I could to prevent it from 
 coming to her knowledge until her powers of persuasion would 
 be useless. 
 
 On the 5th April, 1812, having collected what ready money 
 I could muster, I left Jersey in a small sloop, called the 
 Pleasant Hill of Portsmouth. Towards evening the wind died 
 away, and the tide sweeping us back into the roads, obliged 
 us to let go our anchor ; as I walked her deck, anxiously 
 looking out for a breeze, I observed that the vessel was very 
 light upon the water, and lifting up one of her hatches I dis- 
 covered that she had a clean swept hold. Not a vestige of 
 stone, sand, or any thing in the shape of ballast was there, 
 on my noticing it to the master, he said, ee oh that's nothing, 
 I have done it frequently before ;" oh, said I, the pitcher, &c. 
 you know the rest ; the idea of knocking about the Islands 
 in a vessel without ballast had no attractions for me, and I 
 would gladly have gone on shore had opportunity offered, but 
 there was no boat to be got. It became needful to make the 
 best of a bad bargain, and at all risks remain where I was ; 
 certain it is that the idea of a watery grave is unpleasant at 
 the best of times, but doubly so when just on the very eve of 
 marriage. 
 
 3, P. M. a fine breeze sprung up and the vessel soon ran her 
 distance ; at 1, A. M. we hove to about four miles outside the 
 roads to wait for water in the piers, I told the master that if 
 he would go and lay down I would keep the deck as I was not 
 sleepy, to which he agreed, and went below while I remained 
 on deck. Fatigued, he soon dropped asleep, so did the lad 
 who had been left on deck with me ; I availed myself of the 
 favourable moment to run in, put the helm up, and run her 
 into the roads. I could, as I thought, plainly see the lights of 
 the Vulture, which at that time was guardship, and kept run- 
 
53 
 
 ning for them, and should without any doubt have sacrificed 
 my life as well as those of the others, had I kept on five 
 minutes more ; for on looking under the foot of the foresail, 
 the first thing that struck my eyes was one vast sheet of foam 
 from the sea beating on the castle rocks. I had mistaken the 
 lights ; thank God my presence of mind never forsook me, 
 the sheets had not been eased off, the helm put gently down, 
 and the vessel coming up to the wind, cleared, and barely 
 cleared the rocks. On looking over her lee quarter as she 
 passed them, I could with ease have thrown a bullet on them. 
 Then when all danger was over I gave way to a sense of it, 
 and the perspiration rolled in large globules down my cheeks ; 
 when I recovered I went down to the master, and having 
 awoke him, said, ef I thought the current must have been more 
 powerful than he expected, for that we were close to the 
 Vulture." He seemed doubtful of my assertion, but on coming 
 on deck was soon convinced of the fact, and almost felt 
 inclined to doubt his own eyes ; he was, however, obliged to 
 let go his anchor, the very thing he had been endeavouring to 
 avoid. At 6, A. M. I went on shore, and although the time 
 was short and expence great, I was married that evening at 
 seven o'clock in the Dean's parlour, and took the same 
 lodgings in which my father and mother had before lived. 
 Six and twenty years have rolled along since that day, at this 
 very moment I look back on it with pleasure. Cares and 
 troubles have thickly strewed our path, but that benevolent 
 Being who rules above, has poured the balm of comfort and 
 soothed our cares. 
 
54 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS OCCURRENCES THERE. 
 
 Could those few happy hours again appear, 
 Could one wish bring them, would I wish them here ; 
 1 dare not trust my heart, the dear delight 
 Seems so to be desired, perhaps I might. 
 
 COWPER. 
 
 SOME days after our marriage I wrote to my mother to 
 acquaint her with it, and begged forgiveness for an intentional 
 fault 5 and although she had the greatest reason in the world 
 to he angry at my want of confidence, (not to say deceit) 
 S;till she forgot all, and came across to us and arrived on the 
 following Sunday ; the moment my wife was introduced to 
 her they were friends. A certain something which few can 
 describe,, attached them to each other ; she remained with us 
 only a week wishing to return home, but at parting made 
 us a present of ready money, making it a wish, that on my 
 sailing, my wife should go and live with her. On the 20th 
 the order was received for the Amazon to fit out afresh for the 
 Brazils with a cargo of wine and oil ; it was the same she had 
 brought to the Island and had only been discharged for the 
 purpose of repairing the vessel and coopering the casks. As 
 soon as she commenced the out-fit, I was sent for to the 
 office and desired to join her as chief mate, an order I was not 
 
 long in obeying. I was informed that Messrs. always 
 
 made it a rule to allow their mates one guinea per month more 
 than the wages of the port, and observed, it made them more 
 
55 
 
 attentive and careful ; they remained old servants, and the 
 money was never lost. I felt a deal of pride at the situation I 
 had thus obtained, but doubly so at having extra pay ; my 
 monthly pay was at this time seven guineas, besides some 
 little property in the bank ; how very comfortably I might 
 have lived. Comfort and respectability was within my grasp, 
 but I had formed a circle of acquaintance, from which I could 
 not break off, got into an expensive way of living, and I found 
 it impossible to retrench. I never gave way to excessive 
 drinking, but still kept company with those who did, and thus 
 wasted considerable sums which would have been of more 
 service at home. 
 
 May 2nd, 1812, it being high water about nine o'clock, I 
 went down to the pier to see how her legs stood, entirely de- 
 voted to my vessel, grateful to the owners, I determined no 
 just fault should be found for neglect. As I stood at the 
 vessel's bow, the fire bell struck out its melancholy peal. Now 
 in my opinion scarce any thing is so calculated to alarm as the 
 fire bell ; it is meant to alarm, arid it fully answers its purpose, 
 it seems to say, " prepare with awful strength." Crowds of , 
 men, women, and children were running here and there dif- 
 ferent ways ; it was difficult to find out which way the fire 
 was guided at last by an immense volume of smoke, as if 
 from a volcano, I reached the front of a draper's shop, from 
 which frightful flames issued. A few minutes after my arrival 
 the wall on one side the house gave way, and as it fell out- 
 ward buried two men in its ruins. Afcer an hour's hard 
 labour with pick axes and shovels, the poor creatures were 
 taken out barely alive and dreadfully crushed ; only one house 
 was destroyed, the rest were prevented from taking fire by 
 the great exertion of the engineers. A collection was set on 
 foot next day for those injured, and a circular of thanks sent 
 from the civil authorities to those who had exerted themselves 
 and been seen in clanger. Previous to my sailing in the 
 Amazon, I procured a passage for my wife in one of the 
 
56 
 
 trading vessels of the Island; and on the 15th May,, 1812, at 
 10, A.u.y the Amazon was between the pier heads ready for 
 making sail. Painful was the parting with my wife, but such 
 things must occur ; I have often thought while lying at 
 Spithead, ready for sea, when the boatswain's shrill whistle 
 pipes all hands up anchor, how many hearts it causes to sink 
 below Zero, and on looking at the well manned capstan, slowly 
 performing its revolutions, how many smiling countenances 
 hide an aching heart. Although now a married man, the 
 task of supplying my tea chest, had still fallen upon my 
 mother ; it had arrived just previous to my sailing, so that it 
 remained untouched until after the vessel had been some days 
 at sea. When I had a little leisure to examine it, I found 
 that although my conduct had been such as to be undeserving 
 of her kindness, my mother had neglected no one thing to 
 render my outfit full as complete as ever it had been ; indeed 
 supposing it to be the last trouble of the kind I should give 
 her, my stock was liberal in the extreme ; near the bottom of 
 the chest, amid numerous other little presents, I found a 
 ribbon in which were neatly stitched nine guineas in the event 
 of being taken by an enemy. 
 
 A very fine passage of nine weeks put us inside of the 
 sugar loaf, in the harbour of Rio Janeiro, and the same evening 
 the vessel was moored head and stern off the custom house ; 
 the market being at the time very low of wine, ours sold almost 
 at our own prices ; the oil had to be landed, coopered and 
 filled up, for which purpose a store was hired of a Portugueze 
 merchant, over which was a loft, where all our lumber could 
 be stowed. Between that store and the other was a narrow 
 passage which led into an unfrequented garden, but a window 
 of our loft looked directly into the loft of the next store, where 
 upon dry grass were spread a beautiful show of apples, appa- 
 rently the produce of some distant part, and kept there for 
 market. It appears that two of our lads had fallen in love with 
 these apples, and had in vain racked their prolific brains to 
 
57 
 
 find means to get them without success ; they might have 
 jumped into it, but how to get back was a question not so 
 easily solved ; they had very near given it up, when a little 
 urchin named C , and nephew to our master, came on shore ; 
 he was ever ready at mischief and to him they showed these 
 apples, well knowing if there were in the world, any means of 
 getting at them, Johnny would find it. For a moment Johnny 
 considered, and scratching his shaggy head said, I will have 
 some this afternoon; that was enough, the lads were satisfied. 
 In the afternoon I was surprised to see Jacko, the monkey, come 
 on shore in a bag, and on my noticing it, the boys said they 
 were going to give him a run on shore. It was afterwards 
 found out that Jacko was to be the means by which the boys 
 were to rob the poor Portuguese of his fruit ; the monkey with 
 a rope round his middle was thrown into the opposite window, 
 where he soon seized two, sometimes more apples, and was 
 hauled across ; when a sufficiency had been thus procured, 
 the monkey was rewarded \vith one or two. They might have 
 continued much longer had not Jacko in his transit dropped 
 an apple in the passage nearly on the head of the poor slave 
 who had charge of them. The slave who had been beaten 
 on suspicion of eating them, and who really supposed they 
 vanished by magic, ran and told his master what he had seen. 
 The man with all the rage of a Portuguese slave owner, foaming 
 
 at the mouth, came into the store and asked to see Mr. C 
 
 the master, but not finding him, insisted that immediate pay- 
 ment should be made, and that the boys should be beaten with 
 his stick. Rather than any thing unpleasant should take place 
 I would have paid any reasonable sum, but Don was not to be 
 satisfied, and after a multiplicity of words, I told him English- 
 men were free, and not to be beat about with sticks like 
 slaves to please the caprice of any man. This observation 
 changed the current of the Don's anger, from the boys to me, 
 and in his wrath he forgot his apples, boys and all. He laid 
 a serious complaint before our consignee, who pronounced it 
 
58 
 
 a boyish freak,, but advised the master to pay for the fruit, 
 which was done, and thus ended the affair. 
 
 During our stay here, the foremast being found defective, it 
 was necessary to replace it, which delayed us nearly a week ; 
 our cargo of hides, tallow and sugar complete, September 8th, 
 we left Rio. Almost from the very moment of our leaving 
 Guernsey, the health of Mr. C - had been on the decline, 
 and during his stay at Rio, it increased to such an alarming 
 degree, that he was quite incapable of attending to his duty, 
 and I might be said to be master of the Amazon : an inter- 
 mittent fever was his disorder, and he felt as he told me, that 
 his mortal career was nearly at a close, still he persisted in 
 leaving port with me ; 1 7th, the fatal event, long anticipated, 
 took place. By his death I became confirmed in the command 
 of the vessel, indeed none other could be appointed, for among 
 all hands not one could write his name but myself, much less 
 navigate a vessel across the ocean. This event did not increase 
 my duty, but it gratified my pride too strongly; a misfortune 
 which in many instances has caused me much care, but I 
 was then little above twenty-two, a mere youth. The season 
 was far advanced, and I expected to meet with bad weather, 
 and I was not disappointed. During the last five days of 
 the passage, one constant gale kept me ever on the deck, 
 and the vessel making much water, gave me great un- 
 easiness ; however on the 15th of Nov. after a very thick 
 fog at 10, A. M. I had the happiness of seeing St. Martin's 
 point, and at 11, 30, let go our anchor in the roads to wait 
 tide for the piers. I had certainly obtained soundings, but 
 from the time of my leaving Rio, had seen no land, or spoke 
 to more than one vessel. As soon as the sails were furled, I 
 went on shore, and on the piers met two of the owners, who 
 were at first surprised to see me, but on my stating the 
 death of the master, and giving an account of my voyage, and 
 cargo, both gentlemen shook hands with me, and gave me a 
 warm and cheering welcome. 
 
59 
 
 From my having brought the vessel home, and the reception 
 I had met with, I made sure that I should be confirmed in the 
 command, and that the register would be altered accordingly ; 
 but hearing nothing about it in my frequent visits to the 
 officer,, and no immediate prospect of an outfit, I requested 
 leave to go home for sometime, which was granted ; and I 
 was told at leaving, that, as soon as the outfit recommenced, 
 notice should be sent to me. November 23rd, I left Guernsey, 
 and on the 24th, I landed on the pier, at Southampton ; after 
 having changed my dress, I called upon my old master, the 
 Rev. Mr. W , rapped at the door, which was opened by 
 the old gentleman himself. There was but little difference in 
 his look ; the wig neatly curled and well powdered, black coat, 
 and starched cravat, recalled to my mind days gone by. " I 
 
 hope," said I, " I have the pleasure of seeing Mr. W well ;" 
 
 f( quite well I thank you. I cannot call you by name, but from 
 your address and manner, I suppose you to be one of my 
 
 former scholars." I gave Mr.W my name, who immediately 
 
 brought to mind the little dumpling, as I was then called, now 
 
 so wonderfully grown. Mr. W taking me into the parlour, 
 
 where Mrs. W - was preparing breakfast, requested me to 
 
 be seated ; when Mr. W hoped I recollected the rules of 
 
 the school, which were, that any old scholar who again visited, 
 was expected to take a seat at the dinner table during his stay, 
 and a bed was always prepared for him. I explained to the 
 much respected pair my situation in life, and the reason which 
 prevented my staying at Southampton. During the breakfast 
 
 time, Mr. W renewed the advice he had so often given us 
 
 boys while at school ; observing, that seamen, exposed as they 
 were to all dangers, should lead a life every moment prepared 
 for death. Methinks this very moment I see the venerable 
 old man, his countenance brightening with the glow of true 
 piety. Never shall I forget the latter part of his advice, and 
 the manner in which it was delivered. ce Seamen in general/ 3 
 said he, ee think the Sabbath a day of rest, or of pleasure. 
 
 E2 
 
60 
 
 Believe me, Mr. B , during a long course of life., I have 
 
 found by experience, that a Sabbath spent as it ought to be 
 in the sacred duties of religion, invariably brings a blessing 
 upon the ensuing week." Happy would it have been if his 
 advice had made that impression then which trouble has made 
 in later years. 
 
 I well remember an awful death of a man in Newfoundland, 
 who was notoriously addicted to shooting on Sunday, and 
 spending the evening in drunkenness and riot; it occurred 
 under my own observation and is worthy of being mentioned. 
 While in Jersey harbour, three miles S. W. of us, was the 
 
 Harbour Britten room, in which Mr.^S was agent. As 
 
 society was scarce in winter, the agents were glad to visit each 
 other, and frequently spent whole weeks together ; and I was 
 often invited to spend a few days in the Harbour Britton room 
 
 with Mr. S . During one of these visits, it so happened 
 
 that taking a walk early on Sunday morning with him, 
 along the beach, we were met by a man carrying one of those 
 long duck guns, used by Newfoundlanders, to shoot game in 
 
 winter ; as he came near us, Mr. S said, fe what Oxford, 
 
 shooting again on the Sabbath ? take my advice, leave it off, 
 a day will come, when you will wish you had. Leave it off, 
 
 Oxford, continued Mr. S impressively, and if at any time 
 
 you want half a day to go shooting, (he was a blacksmith, and 
 attached to the rooms), you shall have it. 39 His answer was 
 
 awful ; looking Mr. S full in the face, he thus addressed 
 
 him. "Mr. S , by my shipping paper, Sunday is the 
 
 only day I can claim as my own, of that day no one can 
 deprive me, I may enjoy myself as I please ; two Sundays 
 now I have been beating among these rocks, without killing 
 one duck, but this day, this very day, I must have ducks or 
 I will go to h 1 after them." Remonstrances were vain, 
 he proceeded ; would to heaven I could end here. Night 
 came, and after it day, but no Oxford appeared ; three weeks 
 elapsed, and he was almost forgotten; and if ever thought 
 
61 
 
 *>f, it was only when something was required at the forge. 
 About three weeks afterwards one of the fishermen was 
 driven into Deadmair's Cave by a fresh breeze ; on landing, 
 just under the Bluff as it was then called, (but since that 
 Oxford's Point) he observed on the strand the remains of a dead 
 body in a state of decomposition, most of the flesh torn off by 
 foxes ; there was no proof of the identity, save the clothing, of 
 the unfortunate creature. It was supposed that the poor 
 fellow had gone to the top of the Bluff at high water to watch 
 the coming in of the wild fowl, had fired, and his gun must have 
 kicked him, and rolled him over, for near the remains there 
 lay the gun just as discharged. The fisherman hastened to 
 
 Mr. S , gave him an account of what he had seen, when 
 
 Mr. S went to the spot and ordered the remains to be 
 
 buried at high water mark. Passing that way some days 
 after it was found that the foxes had again dragged the body 
 up, and the bones were laying here and there strewed about 
 
 the strand. Mr. S again ordered them to be buried, and 
 
 as a memento for himself, took one of the thigh bones which 
 he cleaned and put over his bed and kept it there for years, 
 where I saw it some time after. Mr. S. is still living not far 
 from Portsmouth, and will doubtless see these lines, and if 
 needful, could confirm this statement. 
 
 But to proceed ; the coach did not start for P till 
 
 late at night, and determined not to wait, four of us, pas- 
 sengers, agreed to take a post-chaise for G ; about two 
 
 in the afternoon I was set down at the door where my wife 
 
 and family resided. It has been with me a question whether 
 pride or fear most predominated in my driving to the very 
 door in a carriage, but I think fear was uppermost. I had 
 
 heard much of a press officer at G , who was not at all 
 
 nice whom he took to serve His Majesty, and I knew a chaise 
 would be sacred from his search. I very soon had the hap- 
 piness of seeing my wife in all the bloom of health. Although 
 a perfect stranger, I met with a pleasing reception ; among her 
 
 
62 
 
 relations was one who had been an officer in the navy and who 
 being superannuated, had procured a situation in the French 
 
 prison, a short distance from G ; and my time passed 
 
 delightfully among the family of my wife, who were highly 
 respectable. It so happened one morning that having taken 
 
 a walk to F , in going towards the office of my wife's 
 
 uncle, I missed my way, and before I was aware of it got into 
 the Captain's gardens at the very back of the depot. Just as 
 I turned a corner, in order to get out of the scrape I was in, 
 
 I met face to face with Capt. W , the then Commandant, 
 
 who knowing I had no business there, and supposing me one 
 of the French prisoners who was attempting to escape, collared 
 me, asking me what I was, and why there ? at any other 
 time or place to have put his hand on my collar would have 
 been dangerous, but I reflected for one moment, and explained 
 
 to Capt. W , what had brought me there, and answered 
 
 all his questions ; not satisfied, however, he took me round 
 to the office of Mr. C , who sitting at his desk, was sur- 
 prised to see me thus accompanied. C , said Captain 
 
 W , are you in any way acquainted with this gentleman ? 
 
 oh yes, said Mr. C , he is my nephew : oh, then its all 
 
 right, said Captain W , but when he comes again, let some 
 
 one shew him the way, for I found him in my garden ; and 
 
 politely wishing me good morning Captain W left me. 
 
 December 29th, my wife was confined of our first child, 
 and as we intended settling as near her relations as possible, I 
 wrote to the Agents in London to sell out the stock left me 
 by my father, and early in January received a check for 
 158 6s. 8d., being the produce of 250 in the 3 per cent, 
 consols purchased furniture, and was as comfortable as I 
 could well be, trusting firmly that I should soon be sent for 
 to take command of the Amazon ; it was not the case, and this 
 which I thought a heavy misfortune proved a blessing in 
 disguise. 
 
63 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 VOYAGE TO PRINCE EDWARD^S ISLAND, NEWFOUNDLAND, 
 
 &C. 
 
 SOMETIME in March I received a visit from a person who 
 then commanded a small vessel, in the employ of the parties 
 the Amazon belonged to ; by him I learnt that the Amazon was 
 again to be fitted out for Rio and the command given to a 
 young man a distant relation of the owners, but who was my 
 junior by two years ; he was farther to tell me, that it was the 
 desire of the owners that I should go out as mate again. Com- 
 pletely upset at the offer, I, however, endeavoured to hide my 
 
 chagrin, and said, will you, sir, tell Messrs. P , that I want 
 
 no mate's berth ; as master I fulfilled my duty, and did justice 
 to my employers, and could have continued to do so, but 
 never will serve as mate under a mere boy ; my friend then 
 told me that the owners anticipating a refusal on my part, had 
 ordered him to pay me the amount of my wages amounting 
 to 23. 
 
 My prospects certainly appeared dark just then, for I had 
 been sometime out of employment all going out nothing 
 coming in. I had sought no employment, but the ways of 
 Providence are inscrutable, for what I considered a great mis- 
 fortune proved a blessing indeed. The Amazon fitted out and 
 sailed. Walking down Middle-street one forenoon I met the 
 youthful Captain, who like me, was haughty and proud, and al- 
 though schoolfellows, he scarce conversed with me ten minutes ; 
 he told me the Amazon was then at Spithead, and would sail 
 that afternoon for Rio. She did sail. I took one last look at 
 
 
64 
 
 her, but since that day no tidings have been received of her ; 
 most likely she foundered in the Bay of Biscay. 
 
 A few days after the sailing of the Amazon, I received a 
 letter from my mother,, saying, that she felt quite lost without 
 my company, and that of my wife ; and if it met our approba- 
 tion, she would come and end her days with us. With real 
 pleasure her offer was accepted, and about the middle of April, 
 we had the happiness of seeing her arrive in good health. At 
 this time my funds were getting low ; my family, and with it 
 my expences increasing, which depressed my spirits dreadfully, 
 and operated upon my health. My dear mother soon per- 
 ceived that there was something not right, told me how uneasy 
 my want of confidence made her, and by her conduct induced 
 me to lay before her the exact state of my finances. 
 
 I recollect it well as she spoke, my babe was .in her arms ; 
 " John," said this best of mothers, " you have been a Captain, 
 you will never do for a Mate again. Look out for some good 
 vessel, purchase a part of her, and command her yourself ; I 
 will advance the money ; and as the Lord prospers you, you 
 can repay me ; your care and attention to your family will be 
 part payment/' What added to her generosity, was that the 
 sum seedful to be advanced was nearly half her all. 
 
 A relation of my wife, living at Portsmouth, carried on the 
 business of ropemaker and ship chandler, in a very large way, 
 and was reputed very rich; he was also owner of several 
 small vessels. Happening to call at his house one day, I was 
 pressed to stay and take dinner, I consented, and during the 
 dinner, happened to name that I was desirous of purchasing 
 
 part of a vessel, and go out as master of her myself; Mr. 
 
 who sat at the head of the table overhearing what I said, 
 
 observed, that no one could serve me so well as Mr. , for 
 
 he had to do with craft of all sizes, and that he was then 
 
 building a ship at Prince Edward's Island ; Mr. , who 
 
 had overheard the latter part of our conversation, told me 
 that a few days ago he had purchased the hull, and afterwards 
 
65 
 
 the materials of a fine new schooner privateer, cut out of 
 Chesapeake Bay, by the Saracen ; prize made free, and that 
 her tonnage was 195-jj-Jths tons,, and if I chose I might have 
 
 any part of her, and command her. Mr. said she was 
 
 immediately to fit out to carry stores and provisions for the 
 new ship then building, after which I might make a trading 
 voyage to Newfoundland, or where I chose ; he spoke so well, 
 his story so plausible, that 'after dinner I went to look at the 
 vessel ; and so anxious was I to complete the business, that I 
 did not give her half the examination I should have done ; I 
 liked her well, she seemed a good sailer, and well adapted to 
 the Newfoundland trade. It was agreed that I should go 
 home, inform my family of the affair, and decide from their 
 opinion and my own. I went home, laid down the beauty 
 of the vessel so powerfully, that all agreed that to take a part 
 of her was for the best. Things settled thus, the next morning 
 
 I went across to Mr. , drew a form of an agreement, by 
 
 which I proposed to purchase one-third of the vessel as soon 
 as she was fitted out and completely equipped and ready for 
 sea, with not less than six months provisions for twelve men. 
 Mr. - - was to settle every expence, and on his producing 
 vouchers, I was to pay one-third the amount in ready cash ; 
 the agreement was approved and signed, a duplicate also made 
 out and signed, so that each of us had one in his possession. 
 
 May 9th, 1813, I took charge of her; Mr. and myself 
 
 went to the custom house, Portsmouth, swore ourselves sole 
 
 owners of the vessel called W n, and the register was made 
 
 out in my name. As I observed before, Mr. carried on 
 
 business as a ship chandler; of course he furnished the articles 
 necessary to the outfit, but those I soon found were supplied 
 of a very inferior quality ; I felt vexed at this beginning, but 
 fully determined not to submit to injustice, I went so far in 
 one instance as to send back a quantity of blocks, sent on 
 board for use, which being warped and wooden pins, the 
 shivers did not traverse. From various circumstances I soon 
 
 
66 
 
 found Mr. was not the man I expected to find him ; but 
 
 sensible my hand was in the lion's mouth, I determined to 
 get it out without a wound if possible, particularly as I was 
 aware that once in blue water I could act according to my own 
 judgement. 
 
 Not having a complete cargo, I was asked what was best 
 for Newfoundland market, and advised some good hawsers to 
 be made from 3 to 6 inch. In a short time thirty tons of 
 rope was completed and sent down, but when it came, I found 
 
 it twice laid. I remonstrated with Mr. whose only answer 
 
 was C( do the best you can with it, I shall depend on you/' 
 
 In addition to the rope, I took in sixty tons measurement 
 of household furniture for the Governor of Prince Edward's 
 Island, and eleven passengers ; among whom was the Sur- 
 veyor General, and a Magistrate who were cabin passengers. 
 Every thing complete, Convoy at Spithead on the 29th, ran 
 out of harbour and anchored as near the Commodore as pos- 
 sible, and attended on board the R 18, for instructions, 
 
 which were given me by the Clerk, and I kid on his desk the 
 usual douceur of half a guinea, returned on shore, and had a 
 
 complete settlement with Mr. L , who produced bills and 
 
 receipts for all outfitting expences. The receipts, however; were 
 forged, which I found out at my return to England ; he is 
 gone to his long account, and a long one I fear it was. My 
 only motive for mentioning these circumstances is merely to 
 make those who read acquainted with the man I had to deal 
 with ; in justice to myself only, I cannot say we quarrelled 
 over the account, but as near it as it was possible, for there 
 were so many overcharges that no reasonable man could have 
 submitted to. It was at last made out that my third of the 
 
 W n amounted to 247 12s. 8d. ; I paid the amount, and 
 
 with a receipt, well witnessed, left him. The signal was then 
 flying, " masters to repair on board their respective ships", I 
 bade adieu to my family and friends, and with their prayers 
 and good wishes I left them ; and in a short time stood on 
 
67 
 
 her quarterdeck as master of as pretty a little craft as was in 
 the fleet., which consisted of above three hundred sail. 
 
 June 1st, 1813, the signal to weigh was made, and at 6, P. M. 
 
 the last stragglers were passed the Nab Light. The M e 
 
 64, and several other vessels were appointed for the protection 
 of this numerous fleet of ships. Among the number of arti- 
 cles sent down from London for Prince Edward's Island, was 
 a very large trunk marked " New publications ;" the key with 
 some others had been sent in separate parcels, I opened the 
 trunk and found that the chief part of the books were novels 
 and romances. I began reading these books, so very pernicious 
 to youth, with an avidity seldom equalled, and scarce gave 
 myself time to eat, and as little sleep as possible. Except those 
 who have experienced it, none can judge of the powerful effect 
 these books have on the mind, it would, nine cases out of ten 
 be an act of charity to burn them. Could the annals of 
 Bedlam or St. Luke's be correctly examined, it would be found 
 that the first foundations of insanity are in many cases laid 
 by young persons fancying themselves the heroes or heroines 
 of the books they are reading. From the build of the schooner, 
 and her having been an American privateer, I expected her to 
 sail well, nor was I disappointed ; and to a fast sailing vessel, 
 nothing is so trying as to be lagging under low canvass, while 
 the dull sailer heavy laden carries his all. I was not insured ; 
 the insurances then being high, I trusted to her sailing. To 
 remain in the convoy, neither suited my pocket or inclination, 
 I therefore determined to withdraw from the Commodore as 
 quietly as possible, and without risk. Accordingly at the 
 latter end of June, one very dark evening, I came up and 
 asked if the Commodore's gun had been heard ; the mate who 
 knew what I meant, said " no sir i" I went forward, and return- 
 ing in a few minutes, said there is the gun now, about four miles 
 a head ; you have been asleep this watch, make all sail ; 
 canvass was set ; at dawn no Commodore was in sight, and I 
 carried on. 
 
68 
 
 July 1st, 1813; during the night it had been blowing very 
 heavy from S. S. W., we had several times shortened sail, and 
 as I made it a point to disturb the men as little as possible, I 
 had myself been up the whole of the night ; after breakfast I 
 laid down on the lockers, telling the mate to keep a good look 
 out, as it was wet, and very thick. I had not been there half an 
 hour, when the mate sung out, down the companion, e( master, 
 master, jump up, here's a boat bottom up on the larboard 
 bow;" in one moment I was up, and running forward saw 
 what I really believed a boat bottom up, but on looking about 
 I saw a great number of the same sort. I ordered the men 
 at the helm to keep her away a point or two, and on nearing 
 them I found them to be bales floating high out of the 
 water, and endeavoured to hook some with a boat hook, but 
 the canvass with which they were covered tore and left some 
 particles on the hook, by which we discovered that they were 
 bales of cotton which some vessel had lost. I had on deck 
 a light clinker-built boat quite new and in good order, four of 
 the men volunteered to go in her and try to bring some along- 
 side, and they took several long hook ropes, and during the 
 day bale after bale they brought, twenty-one in number. Two 
 more vessels hove in sight and each of them picked up several 
 bales ; they weighed each from 250 to 360lbs. ; it was late 
 before we had got them in, and lashed round the bulwarks. 
 
 About an hour before sunset, the M e hove in sight, 
 
 having still the distinguishing vane at the mast head ; it was 
 useless to go on, so making a virtue of necessity I bore up, 
 and ran down to her ; no notice was taken of me, and I was 
 all right, determined to slip again the first opportunity. 
 
 A few days after my return under the Commodore's wings, 
 
 the R e came into the convoy with an American brig she 
 
 had captured after a long chase. At this time the bales of 
 cotton lashed round the bulwarks just shewed over it, and a 
 vessel to leeward might see them well on deck. I made no 
 mystery of it, I was however surprised one afternoon to see 
 
69 
 
 the R e bear up, and running on my weather quarter, hail, 
 
 ef schooner ahoy," " shy" answered I, " what are those bales on 
 your deck ?" " bales of cotton sir, they are mine ;" heave to, 
 and I will send for them ;" " aye aye sir," replied I, " but at 
 the same time if }~ou get them it will be strange ;" so I thought 
 but said nothing. A boat came alongside, the Lieutenant 
 jumped on board, and looking round without addressing one 
 word to me, who was there ready to receive him, ordered the 
 first man he saw to unlash these bales ; the man was about 
 
 to comply, when I said to him " T who feeds you, and 
 
 pays your wages ?" ee you do master," said the man, sur- 
 prised at the question ; et then at your peril touch the bale, if 
 this gentleman wishes to take it, he is quite welcome to do so, 
 his own men must unlash and hoist it out, none of you touch it." 
 The officer, a very young man, was about to command, 
 when I told him very quietly, sir, this vessel is mine, I alone 
 command her ; these bales were picked up upon the high sea, 
 not a pendant in sight or within hearing. I am aware you 
 can take it if you please, I will not resist; I call my men, and 
 your men, sir, to witness I object to give it up ; but before 
 you take it away recollect, that to take any thing from a vessel 
 at sea is an undoubted act of piracy ; and as I cannot submit 
 to be robbed, you must stand the consequence. I can scarce 
 describe the rage the officer threw himself into, but as I was 
 not under his command, I cared little ; he however used such 
 language as I have seldom heard since, but he left me 
 
 and went to his own ship. In a short time I saw the R e 
 
 haul close to the wind and speak to the Commodore, ; and as 
 I expected, my pendants were seen flying ; I hauled close to 
 
 the wind, and the M e keeping a point or two away, we 
 
 soon closed ; when near enough I was informed a boat would 
 be sent for me, and I was desired to bring my log, instruc- 
 tions, &c. Independent of the regular log, I kept a private 
 journal, I took that also, and just ascended on one side, as 
 
7o 
 
 the Commander of the R e came up the other. No one 
 
 took any notice of me,, but in a few moments the Admiral and 
 Captain came out of the poop cabin ; I stood there, with my 
 hat off, when the Admiral motioning me to put it on again, 
 
 desired Captain to state his complaint, which was 
 
 done in a manly and truly gentlemanlike manner, and finished 
 by saying, that for himself he cared nothing about it, justice 
 to his officers and men alone made him anxious to get the bales. 
 
 The Admiral then turning to me, said " well sir, now let 
 us have your version of the story." I stated from memory, 
 the circumstances as they had occurred, and brought private 
 and ship's log,- to corroborate my statement. I was asked if 
 during the day I had heard any gun; answering in the 
 negative, the Admiral said " then sir, you are determined 
 not to give up the bales ;" f not unless ordered in writing by 
 yourself sir, or taken by force." " Well Capt. ," ob- 
 served the Admiral, " I really cannot see the justice of your 
 claim, had it been willingly given up, it would again have been 
 yours, but I do not think myself justified in ordering it to be 
 taken away, therefore go on board my man, and take care of 
 your bales." I begged leave to report to the Captain of the 
 
 R e, the language and conduct of the officer sent on board 
 
 my vessel, who was ordered on board the flag ship. As I was 
 leaving the quarter deck, I heard the Admiral say to his own 
 
 Captain B , " I admire the fellow's spirit." Thus ended 
 
 our affair, which, but for a little presence of mind, might have 
 caused me the loss of valuable property. 
 
 From the 3rd to the llth July, it blew heavy, and a thick 
 fog, and when it cleared up only four of our immense fleet of 
 ships were to be seen, and these four were merchantmen. I 
 kept on my course, and on the 14th, got soundings on the 
 grand bank, rounded to, and fishing for one hour and got a 
 plentiful supply and made all sail Westward. On the 18th, 
 about two in the afternoon, the weather being very thick, I 
 
71 
 
 fell in with a brig, all sails set, standing in directly for Cape 
 Rare. Assured that he was out of his reckoning, I hailed to 
 know where he was bound to ; ce to Quebec/' was the answer ; 
 I found that for several days he had no meridian altitude, and 
 told him, that if he continued as he was now going, in three 
 hours he would be hard and fast on Cape Rare. All I could 
 say did not seem to convince him, but when about 4, p. M. it 
 cleared up, and the Cape was quite visible off deck, he was 
 soon glad to haul close, but could not weather the Cape. 
 July 21st, I anchored in Burin, and there met with a very 
 old friend who was agent, and part owner of a room there ; 
 to him I sold four tons of rope, and got several articles I stood 
 in need of, and sailed on the 23rd, promising at my return to 
 bring him some plank from Prince Edward's Island. 28th, 
 anchored in Hilsborough Bay; passengers went on shore, 
 and when the vessel was moored, I landed and reported to 
 the Governor my having goods for him. Early next morning 
 boats and men were ready to take it out. 
 
 During the day the Collector of the Customs came on board 
 and after some conversation, asked me what those bales con- 
 tained ? I answered cotton picked up at sea ; have you no 
 cocket for them ? no sir ; I was then informed that no permit 
 could be given to land them. Sometime after the gentleman 
 observing a hole in one of the bales, took a small quantity of 
 the cotton in his hand and looking at it said, what beautiful 
 mattresses this would make ; half a bale of it is very much at 
 your service sir, said I, oh, nothing of the kind said Mr. T ; 
 the half bale was sent up, it was not denied admittance, and 
 when I called at the customs to enter inwards, I heard a gen- 
 tleman say to the other, William I have given a permit to 
 the Captain of the W , to land a few bales of cotton. That 
 same afternoon I found a purchaser who at first oifered six- 
 pence per pound, then ninepence, which I took. For the 
 nineteen bales landed, deducting damaged cotton, I received 
 near two hundred pounds sterling. To each oi the men who 
 
went in the boat I gave 10, and to those who belonged to 
 the vessel, I gave 5, amounting to 65 ; the rest I divided in 
 
 equal parts, and sent a bill for half the amount to Mr. , 
 
 my brother owner. I considered that although I only owned 
 one third of the vessel, my being on the spot, and having to go 
 through the toil and labours of the day, fully entitled me to half 
 the produce. And even now when years have gone by upon 
 mature consideration, I cannot think I acted unjustly ; and 
 could I have known half as much as I have since learnt to my 
 sorrow, not one farthing should have gone to him. My busi- 
 ness at Hilsborough Bay ended, I agreed with a person who 
 kept saw mills at Orwell Bay, for the purchase of some plank 
 and small spars and completed my cargo on the 23rd August. 
 A new ship called the Duke was to be launched a day or two 
 before my sailing, men were very scarce and as much as 30 
 were offered for the run home. My crew had two months 
 advance before leaving home, and since that, had taken up. 
 some clothing, so that most of them were in debt. It is not 
 therefore to be wondered at that the temptation was so great, 
 and one morning, on awaking, I found myself left with one man 
 and a black lad who was apprenticed to me ; my anger was 
 as great as it was useless, I endeavoured to trace the fugitives 
 but without success, and thus left in a vessel of 195 tons with 
 only one man and one lad, I scarcely knew how to act. In 
 the afternoon a man named Young, who had been a trip or 
 two to St. Johir*s in a small vessel came and offered his servi- 
 ces to sail with me to St. John's, and no further, and had the 
 impudence to ask me nine guineas per month ; there was how- 
 ever no alternative, I must either take him or the vessel must 
 remain where she was. I did take him and a more useless 
 creature I never met with. Before I left the island I put her 
 under snug canvass, and on the 5th September, at 4, p. M., I 
 sailed for Burin. 
 
73 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 While the pale pilot, o'er the helm reclined, 
 " Lists to the changeful storm ; and as he plies 
 His wakeful task, he oft hethinks him sad, 
 Of wife and little home, and chubby lad, 
 " And the half-strangled tear bedews his eyes. 
 
 " KIRKE WHITE." 
 
 I ENDED my last chapter reader on leaving Orwell Bay, in a 
 vessel of 195^4ths tons, her register to prove it, and for a 
 crew, an old man above fifty, I do not mean a healthy, jolly, 
 good looking old man with a shrewd intelligent face, so often 
 seen in the British navy, but I mean one of those fellows so 
 well known on board a man of war as belonging to the after- 
 guard, just fit to sweep the deck, coil ropes down, carry a 
 Midshipman's hammock up and down, and called by the cap- 
 tain of the afterguard " King's hard bargains ;" another rather 
 younger, equally useless, and ten times more conceited, and 
 to complete my crew, a lad of colour who after all was the best 
 servant I had. With this very hopeful crew I left the bay for 
 Burin, under very easy canvas, and I soon found that my 
 precautions were not unnecessary, for six hours after, the 
 wind freshened and I was obliged to furl the fore-topsail, haul 
 the fourth reef down in the mainsail, and make all snug for a 
 gale ; but before I could accomplish it, I was obliged to put 
 the helm down, and go aloft myself, leaving the deck to take 
 care of itself. The vessel behaved admirably, the sea was 
 awfully high, (it always is there) she rose to it like a Nautilus, 
 
74 
 
 and while on her topsail-yard tossing to and fro I thought of 
 home and its comforts, (then far distant) . 6th, 7th and 8th, 
 it blew very heavy, I could not for a moment leave the deck. 
 At 2, A. M., on the 9th, it became suddenly calm and a very 
 heavy sea with thick fog ; uncertain where the current might 
 have drawn me, I sounded 53 fathoms ; 3, A.M., 35 fathoms. I 
 soon found from the soundings that I was not far from St. 
 Pierre, Langly or Mequelm, and that the tide setting into 
 Fortune Bay must soon send me on a ledge called the Seal 
 Rocks. At 4, A. M., thick fog, only 18 fathoms, let go the small 
 bower anchor and veered to 80 fathoms cable ; within a short 
 time after daylight it cleared up, and gave me a distinct view of 
 the Seal Rocks, not above a cable's length astern of me, and 
 on trying the current I found it set 2J knots into Fortune 
 Bay - y providentially I knew the place well having been so long 
 about that spot ; I could have ran into the bay, but had I done 
 so, it was uncertain how I might get out again. 
 
 A very signal instance of preservation had saved our lives 
 and the vessel, for had I kept the anchor at her bows half an 
 hour longer, I should have been nearly on the centre of the 
 rocks, from which there was but little hope of escape ; but 
 instead of melting into thankfulness to God for our safety, we 
 all soon forgot it. The day as it went on continued fine, but 
 the sea was still high. About noon I observed the vessel 
 lying nearly across the sea, and as she rolled heavily I guessed 
 the tide was making out of the bay, and in order to find out 
 more certainly, I hove an old tub overboard, which floating to 
 windward convinced me. We managed to get the canvas set 
 on the vessel, hove as much of the cable in as we could, and 
 having watched her head, cut the cable, and favoured by a fine 
 breeze from S. E. soon worked her out of the bay, and on the 
 12th September, 1813, came to in Burin and lashed her to 
 the wharf. According to promise, the Agent there not only 
 purchased most of my rope, plank and spars, but offered to load 
 my vessel with dry fish at 6s. freight per quintal as far as 
 
75 
 
 Cadiz, 6s. 6d. to Gibraltar, and increase upwards, and 10 per 
 cent, primage to myself; and as cablets sold bad in the fall, my 
 rope was to lay in his stores till spring when it would sell 
 better. 
 
 Having then settled all these arrangements, I soon got the 
 vessel cleared; the fishing season over, men were plenty, I 
 could ship just as many as suited me. I commenced taking 
 
 in fish, and during my stay there, I remitted to Mr. , my 
 
 partner, the sum of *J6 14s. Od. all in Navy bills, good as the 
 Bank of England. October 4th, my cargo was complete, it 
 amounted to 2369 quintals of fish, which promised to make a 
 very good freight ; I also purchased with the produce of my 
 cotton 195 quintals on my private account, which I stowed on the 
 top of the cargo, and in my cabin. The vessel was deep, but 
 fish is a lively cargo, and having a good vessel, I flattered 
 myself with a short voyage. Early on the 5th, I hauled off 
 from the wharf, and dropped anchor in a fair way at the mouth 
 of Ship Cave ; then the first room on the Island belonging to 
 
 S and Co. was under the care of Mr. H their agent. 
 
 During my stay in Burin, I had entered and extended a 
 protest for the loss of my anchor, and the agent at Lloyd's 
 had supplied a new one, I was therefore safe as far as anchors 
 went. The wind was at E. S. E. all day on the 5th, and as I 
 was pacing the quarter-deck of my little vessel in the afternoon, 
 I observed a boat called a bait skiff, (I suppose them to be 
 about twenty feet keel) beating out of Ship Cave, apparently 
 on a sail for, pleasure. There were in her two ladies whom I 
 
 took to be Mrs. H and Miss P her sister ; as their 
 
 boat crossed my bow about forty yards to windward, I walked 
 forward to ask them on board, but before I could address them 
 one of those flaws, so common in those parts, laid the boat on 
 her beam ends, the ladies went to leeward, the ballast shifted, 
 she filled, but did not sink. There were in her two ladies, a 
 babe fourteen months old, and four men ; I lost no presence 
 of mind, and never was it more required. My first idea was 
 
 F2 
 
7? 
 
 to jump into the jolly boat then hanging astern, but on casting 
 one glance at the sufferers,, I observed one of the ladies all 
 but gone, and the babe head and legs downwards, only sup- 
 ported by the buoyancy of his clothing. I once heard a 
 gentleman say that nothing was ever done well in a hurry, but 
 he certainly erred, for in one moment without the slightest 
 consideration, only throwing my coat off, I was overboard, 
 (the men had come up and were lowering the jolly boat,) made 
 towards the child whom I actually dragged up arm's length 
 from under water, threw the little fellow across my neck, and 
 with his little hand in my mouth swam towards his mother, 
 who was all but gone. In those days ladies wore pelisses ; 
 this lady had one on with a velvet collar, and by that same 
 collar I saved her life, and held her up at arm's length for a 
 very few minutes till the jolly boat came to me. My only 
 fear was that she might get too close to me, and enclosing my 
 arms in a deadly grasp the embrace might prove fatal to both. 
 A constitution unimpaired left me great strength, or without 
 it I could never have done what I did. Two poor fellows 
 went down to rise in eternity, the other two were saved, as 
 also the other lady who got on the boat's bottom ; I had the 
 happiness of seeing them all seated on the lockers of my little 
 cabin. Years are passed and flown by, "as a tale that is told," the 
 baby that was then, is now an officer in the army, and bears 
 the marks of my teeth on his wrist to this day, and no doubt 
 will do so to his grave. It was the impulse of the moment that 
 induced me to jump overboard, but during the whole course 
 of my life few actions have given me more pleasure to reflect 
 
 upon. Mr. H , the husband and father of the lady and 
 
 child came off soon after, and without taking notice of any 
 one, jumped down the companion ; he had been told they were 
 dead, how sweet, how pleasing, must have been their meeting ; 
 I was not, would not be present even though I could ; I think 
 scenes like these should ever be private, sacred to love and 
 friendship. 
 
77 
 
 Mr. H arid myself were merely acquainted, we had met 
 
 and that was all. As he went on shore to send necessary 
 clothing he pressed my hand, and with a look which spoke 
 volumes, went into his boat ; in an hour the ladies went on 
 shore. Before I left Burin I saw the whole family several 
 times, and on my departure was loaded with presents, Mr. 
 
 H making me give him a firm promise that I would 
 
 frequently write to him, and if ever I stood in need of a friend 
 never to fear applying to him. Many times when oppressed 
 with grief and care, I have made up my mind to write to him 
 and seek from him that employment I knew it was in his 
 power to give, and such as would put me in a better way of 
 supporting my family than the scanty pittance a ship of war 
 admits of; but the horrid idea always struck me, that my own 
 carelessness and folly had driven me into the gulph in which 
 I am now. How then can we murmur, the ways of provi- 
 dence are inscrutable, do we not see it daily. October 10th 
 I left Burin and after a fine though long passage, November 
 llth I anchored in the Bay of Cadiz. Being a stranger to 
 Merchant's affairs in these parts, I consigned myself to the 
 
 first English house then in Cadiz, the house of L , &c. 
 
 who very soon disposed of my cargo at a very good price, nine 
 dollars per quintal ; as for my own it was not landed at all, 
 but smuggled into small trading boats who purchased it at 
 half a dollar per quintal more to avoid paying custom house 
 dues on shore. The money I got for my fish I took to the 
 British Consul's office in gold and dollars, and for every 
 dollar I gave in I got five shillings and sixpence, bills on 
 government ; some I remitted home, but as I went on shore 
 every day, and provisions at an enormous price, I spent a deal 
 of money which I might have saved ; pounds flew in needless 
 expence ; the danger to life was also very great, the plague, as 
 many called it, (but in reality only a putrid fever) was raging 
 throughout the town. A few hours only were given to those 
 attacked with this fatal disorder, the moment it entered a 
 
78 
 
 house every feeling was banished, the links of the most tender 
 affections were broken ; the husband deserted his wife, the 
 wife her husband and little ones ; indeed it seemed as if one 
 vast convulsion of nature had upset the town. You might 
 walk all day long and not see a smiling face, as the Spaniards 
 are seldom seen to smile. The Don Quixote features of the 
 men find it difficult to expand into any thing like a smile ; but 
 even the females,, whom a certain gentleman admires so much, 
 are devoid of that sweet diffidence,, that softness of countenance, 
 and lips, which though closed, yet speak volumes, and which 
 alone are possessed by our beauties of the North. 
 
 Amid the scenes of sickness and of death I wandered about 
 the town almost every day ; it is true I went into no house 
 which I knew to be infected, but I was liable to catch disorder 
 in the streets ; the very air was foul, a strange infatuation 
 possessed me and nothing could keep me on board. The least 
 number of deaths returned for one day while I lay there, 
 except the last, were seventy-nine. The many expences I was 
 at and the very high wages given diminished my freight very 
 much, but it paid, and having done that, little more remained. 
 Early in December I was discharged and took in ballast ; I 
 might have got a freight of fruit for London, or Brandy for 
 Liverpool, but while I was considering which to take, one of 
 the men found out a plank in her bottom between wind and 
 water, about fourteen feet of which was so worm eaten that it 
 was unfit if not dangerous to take a cargo, and as it was 
 doubtful how far the whole of her bottom might be affected, 
 I hushed it up and cleared out for England. That same day 
 Cadiz was declared in health ; a few extra dollars procured me 
 a clean bill of health. A lady the wife of the Commander of a 
 large transport, with her son a beautiful boy, were committed 
 to my care for a passage home, llth, favoured by a fresh 
 breeze at S. E., I left the bay and as I rounded Cape St. Vin- 
 cent and Finisterre, the wind hauled first to South then S. W. 
 as if to favour me, so that on the 5th day, being the 16th 
 
79 
 
 December, I anchored in Falmouth, and was immediately put 
 under strict quarantine until the 13th January ; there I 
 received several letters from my family, which had increased 
 one in number since my departure. 
 
 Intending to sail from Falmouth for home next day, on the 
 14th I hauled out of the quarantine ground and anchored the 
 vessel off Trefusis Point, in the afternoon the wind set in from 
 S. E. and thick ; I would gladly have gone back to the Pool 
 but it was then too late. Towards evening the Queen trans- 
 port arrived from Passages, after the Battle of St. Sebastian, 
 with wounded and sick soldiers, women, and children, and 
 anchored about half a cable's length astern of me. At 5, P. M. 
 it blew very heavy, the sea began to run high, and the night 
 looked dismal ; I was then riding at single anchor with only 
 fifty fathoms cable. Something required to be done for the 
 security of the vessel, and not having much drift room I set 
 the fore stay-sail with the sheet well over to port, and at the 
 same time put the helm hard a port, which brought the wind 
 about four points on the larboard bow ; I then let go the star- 
 board anchor and veered away on both, keeping barely enough 
 of the first to freshen the nip if required ; thus having one 
 hundred fathoms on one anchor and about fifty on the other. 
 This done, struck both topmasts, laid the topsail yard as near 
 as possible fore and aft, fore-yard as near the deck as would 
 allow to work. The only thing left above deck was the fore 
 gaft, with the fore-sail double reefed, well furled, and two 
 preventer sheets on it in the event of parting from my anchor ; 
 hatches battened down and nothing but the companion for 
 access below. Forbid it heaven that I should cast reflections 
 on men of superior abilities and years, but the event justifies 
 me when I say that had some in charge of vessels acted 
 exactly as I did, many valuable lives might have been spared. 
 The night was really awful, and one of the worst I ever saw ; 
 it was one of intense anxiety, snow and dismal darkness except 
 now and then when the flashes of lighning shot across the eyes. 
 
80 
 
 At intervals it cleared away but soon returned with tenfold 
 horror to the dismal scene ; the minute guns of the ships in 
 the Carrick Roads announced to those who had time to take 
 notice of it, that danger was pressing there ; 10, P. M. seas 
 were chasing each other over our decks, which made it doubly 
 dangerous for those whose duty made it necessary for them 
 to be there. 
 
 About midnight^ a lump that had been anchored in the roads 
 broke adrift, and dropping athwart hawse of the Rapid, 
 schooner of 14 guns, did her much damage, but the Rapid^ 
 held on, and the lump went ashore. About 3, A. M., a fine 
 large brig called the Lady Warren of Liverpool, whose 
 cargo was said to be of immense value, parted from her cables, 
 just and barely cleared my bows, got round the point, and ran 
 on the mud where she remained perched and perfectly upright. 
 Had the person who had charge of the brig at the time that 
 she parted from her cable neglected to cut the other, she 
 would have got athwart hawse with me and involved me in her 
 ruin ; as it was, by judicious conduct she was saved, and I 
 rode out the gale. From 11, P. M.. the Queen had fired guns, 
 and when flashes of lightning threw a gleam around, it was 
 evident from her position, that she had drifted, and was fast 
 approaching the rocks on which a long rolling sea was dashing 
 itself into a foam. 
 
 At 5, A, M., during a dreadful squall, the Queen parted first 
 from one, and then the other of her cables, and fell on shore 
 just across a rock about forty yards from the beach ; and such 
 was the pressure amidships, that she parted, and both parts 
 swinging round brought her bowsprit nearly over her taffrail. 
 
 From the account given by Mr. C , the master some days 
 
 afterwards in my hearing, it appears that during the night the 
 sheet cable had been ranged along the decks, and was intended 
 to be let go in the event of her drifting, of which there did 
 not appear to be much fear as the ship rode easy ; but that 
 the moment the men who had the watch called out that the 
 
81 
 
 ship was driving 011 the rocks, men, women, and children 
 rushed up the hatchway and so completely filled the range, 
 that to have let go the anchor must have crushed nearly all 
 those in the range to death ; and before they were removed, 
 the ship was on the rocks. In such a case scarce anything 
 could have justified the anchor being let go. 
 
 When daylight came I could see the ill fated ship on shore, 
 heeling well over on her broadside, and the weatherside of her 
 covered with sufferers, almost entirely naked, exposed to the 
 pelting of the pitiless storm ; and by their gestures imploring 
 that aid, I could not give. Many threw themselves off the 
 wreck towards the shore, but few of those escaped being beat 
 on the rocks ; they were all nearly spent before daylight ap- 
 peared. It was a heart-rending scene, and well calculated to 
 rouse every thought, and action into service. I had a fine 
 clinker-built boat, nineteen feet long ; tne value of the boat 
 was nothing when compared to the life of one human being ; 
 I determined to make the attempt to veer her astern, and 
 endeavour to save some of the sufferers from the wreck ; 
 with some trouble we got her out, dropped her under the 
 vessel's stern where the sea was comparatively smooth, rove 
 a hawser through the ringbolt in her stem, and taking a good 
 turn round her foremast thwart, veered her away gently over 
 the long rolling sea. Every thing bid fair, and seemed to pro- 
 mise success ; my vessel being just in the wind's eye of the 
 wreck, the boat dropped amidship of her, but the sea striking 
 the wreck, bounded back into the boat and filled her before 
 one soul could get into her. I was obliged to bring the 
 hawsers to the windlass, but the thwart starting, the ring gave 
 way and the boat went on the rocks and soon was beat to 
 atoms. I felt little regret for the boat, though she had cost 
 me nineteen guineas, but a sincere grief that she had not been 
 instrumental in saving some poor creatures from their awful 
 situation. About 2, p. M., it rather moderated, and boats from 
 Falmouth, St. Maws, &c. came off, and after a strong effort, 
 
82 
 
 took from the wreck the few that remained; they were few in 
 comparison to those that had been lost. All that day and 
 the next no boats could land near the spot. On the 17th, I 
 landed, not so much to view the fatal spot as to render any 
 assistance my slender means might afford. From my small 
 crew I took four with me, the remaining part being fully em- 
 ployed in repairing the damage done during the late gale. The 
 scene on the beach beggared description : it struck to the very 
 heart, and would have roused the most hardened to sympathy. 
 The ship in two parts was laying as nearly as possible on 
 her broadside, her huh 1 , in parts, resting on her own spars, 
 rigging, and gear of all sorts. Strewed about the beach lay 
 casks of provisions, cases, chests, arms, &c., and here and 
 there a dead body whose hand or whose face only was visible 
 amid the ruins of the wreck. Above one hundred had already 
 been buried in a hole dug for that purpose in Milar church- 
 yard. That same morning thirty-five had been picked up and 
 carried to Boyers* cellars, where they all lay perfectly naked 
 except a little child, I should say fourteen months old ; that still 
 had some part of its clothing and a silver whistle with small 
 bells to it, tied round its neck with a light blue ribbon. Among 
 the sufferers was a gentleman who had been Town Major of 
 one of the Peninsular towns, and coming home with his wife 
 and six children, and much property, all 'had perished. To 
 him life could scarce be deemed a mercy ; he now stood alone 
 in this vast universe, and which ever way he turned a dis- 
 tressing blank presented itself to his view. Where were now 
 his dear wife and his beautiful children ? alas, all a gone to 
 that bourne from whence no traveller e'er returns." I heard 
 some months after, that reason had given way under the 
 pressure of grief, and he was in a mad-house. As near as it 
 could be ascertained, above two hundred had perished, and one 
 
 hundred and nineteen were saved. The house of F and Co. 
 
 supplied the survivors with a complete suit of clothing, and 
 indeed the inhabitants of Falmouth, Penryn, and its vicinity, 
 
83 
 
 interested themselves to a great degree in aid of the sufferers. 
 Although the gale had abated considerably,, and the weather was 
 finer than it had been, the wind shifted from S. E. to N. E., and 
 the thermometer falling from 40 to 18J, the wind again 
 rose very high, the sea still ran very heavy. Such was the 
 state of the weather, that no vessel could go Eastward ; the 
 roads were impassable, and several days, if I recollect right, 
 nine days elapsed without a mail going between Falmouth and 
 Plymouth ; so that during the whole of this time, my family 
 were in the utmost distress : for previous to the gale, I had 
 written to say, that I should leave Falmouth next day, so that 
 they all the time supposed me at sea or lost. I had also 
 received a letter from a friend at Portsmouth, stating that a 
 
 strong report prevailed that the affairs of Mr. , my partner 
 
 were so much deranged, that it was doubtful whether he 
 would not be soon a bankrupt. As soon as the roads became 
 
 again passable, I wrote to Mr. , telling him that my part 
 
 of the vessel was my all, if I lost her I was ruined ; and 
 begged him to tell me the real state of his affairs, and if he 
 was apprehensive of bankruptcy to let me know, and I would 
 accept of a freight offered me for Passages, which, being cables, 
 would stand the damp. On the 6th day I received an answer 
 
 from Mr. , couched in the most friendly terms, assuring 
 
 me that not the slightest danger existed. That there had 
 been a momentary cloud, which to a man in a large way of 
 business was nothing ; advised me by all means to come 
 home, and fit out for a privateer. By the tenor of his letter, 
 I was completely deceived, and felt fully assured of safety. 
 As I had remitted the whole of my freight home, I found 
 
 myself under the necessity of drawing on Mr. for 40, 
 
 which, considering the expences of the vessel, provisions^ 
 wear and tear, was but little, and every item of which appeared 
 
 in the book ; and in my letter I informed Mr. of 
 
 the bill, and had he in his answer intimated the slightest 
 danger of bankruptcy, I could with ease have taken the 
 
84 
 
 vessel to some place where she would still have been my 
 support ; but no hint appeared in his letter, and I became one 
 of his numerous victims. He is now no more, but after my 
 troubles, he again set up in business, and soon died and 
 how ? Thus, as we often see in the world, the honest man fre- 
 quently becomes the prey of the designing rogue : to that man 
 I owe two-thirds of my misfortunes, the remainder may be 
 chargeable on my own carelessness : the wrong he did me I 
 have long forgiven. His funeral was attended with grief in 
 coaches, while humble merit passes unnoticed to the grave 
 it ought not to be so for the sake of example. 
 
 January the 29th, the M sailed from Falmouth with a 
 
 convoy to the Eastward, and on the 1st February, I landed at 
 Portsmouth, after a fine though rough passage, anchored in 
 Stokes Bay, hastened home, and as I ascended the stairs I 
 laughed, and heard my mother exclaim " oh ! here is my boy f 
 in a moment I was in the room, and all my cares forgotten. I 
 
 was informed that during the several last days Mr. had 
 
 repeatedly called to know if I was returned, and left a request 
 that the moment I arrived I might call on him. Considering 
 it a point of duty, I went as soon as possible ; on the beach 
 I found a waterman named Butler, who having frequently 
 attended on me before, asked if I wanted him ; I jumped into 
 his boat, bid him shove off: on landing at Point, it being 
 nearly dark, I gave him what I took to be a shilling token, 
 such as were current in those days, but which ultimately 
 proved to be a quarter of a doubloon, the worth of one pound 
 three shillings. About nine, as I sat at supper, some one 
 rapped at the door, and on its being opened, it was found to 
 be Butler, who asking me if I knew the sum I had given him, 
 and being told one shilling, produced the piece of gold, and said 
 as it was not honestly got, it could do him no good ; I took 
 the piece and gave the man five shillings, with which he was 
 perfectly satisfied and thankful. Such an instance of honesty 
 in a man of that class deserves to be recorded in large letters. 
 
85 
 
 But to resume. I found my partner from home and made 
 
 Mrs. acquainted with the nature of my voyage, which 
 
 was but telling over again what I had written before ; Mrs. 
 
 seemed perfectly satisfied with my account; I begged her 
 
 to tell me candidly the state of affairs, and assured her that 
 even now the vessel was safe, and if any danger was to be 
 apprehended I would that night up anchor and secure to Mr. 
 
 and to myself the means of support. She seemed alarmed 
 
 at the question, told me with a boasting smile that if Mr. 
 
 wanted ten thousand pounds credit he could obtain it imme- 
 diately ; Mr. himself came in, and in a short walk during 
 
 which I again informed him of all that had taken place, of 
 which he appeared perfectly satisfied, did not in any way 
 disapprove of any of my actions ; and over a friendly glass of 
 porter, told me again and again that all was safe, and advised 
 me by all means to apply for a commission, or letter of 
 marque, and fit out as a privateer, and as if in joke, hinted 
 
 at smuggling. At 3, I left Mr. L , highly gratified at 
 
 the assurances he had given me, and while enjoying the sweet 
 society of my wife and two little ones, I almost wondered 
 how I could ever have harboured one thought injurious to 
 his character ; but see what followed. 
 
 April 4th, in the afternoon, I received a message from a 
 very respectable Attorney, requesting to see me at his office ; 
 now however respectable that class of men may be, there is no 
 one name upon earth that is so grating to my ears, and creates 
 such a painful sensation as that of a LAWYER ; it seemed to be 
 like a N. West squall brewing in the chops of the channel, the 
 forerunner of evil. Gladly would I have evaded the summons 
 if I could. I know not what took possession of my mind, 
 
 I attended, and saw Mr. but judge what I felt, when the 
 
 following words resounded in my ears; but my chapter is 
 ended. 
 
8G 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 TEN WEEKS IN WINCHESTER PRISON, ITS CHINESE 
 PROVERBS, INMATES, CUSTOMS, &C. 
 
 " Never begin any thing of which you have not well considered the end/' 
 
 As civilly as it could be told me, I was informed that Mr. 
 
 had been declared a bankrupt on the 29th of March, that the 
 person who then spoke to me was appointed Attorney to the 
 Assignees, and that as the schooner was known to belong 
 mostly, if not entirely to the bankrupt, I must immediately 
 give her up to the creditors, and throw my claim in as a 
 creditor myself for my just debt owing to me. The gentle- 
 man might have gone on much longer I heard him not ; at 
 one glance I saw ruin before me, and a full view of future 
 misery. So completely was I overwhelmed with the shock of 
 my sudden fate, that for sometime I remained insensible to 
 events, the consideration of which a few moments before would 
 have carried to my mind confusion and alarm. O ! my family, 
 thought I, when a little recovered, what will become of my 
 children ? To describe the sensations that hurried through my 
 bosom; the recollections that rushed over me, the fearful, 
 terrible anticipations of those fatal moments ; the abandon- 
 ment of feeling with which I stood, the pale helpless being 
 of crushed hopes and ruined life, is more than can be told, 
 and if told can never be conceived ; not for worlds would I 
 live that day over again. The Attorney spoke kindly and 
 feelingly, and he certainly did feel for me ; begged me to be 
 calm, and look forward with hope, " yes sir," said I, <e I will 
 be calm," but, though, I see ruin before me, I must convince 
 
the man who caused it that it shall not be with impunity. 
 God forgive me, his life nearly paid for it ; even at this distant 
 period., after a lapse of twenty years are gone by, my very 
 frame trembles at the thought of what I might have done, and at 
 the awful gulf on the brink of which I stood almost a murderer. 
 To the soothing kindness of my family, who bore ruin with 
 fortitude, I am indebted for my very existence. It had, as I told 
 the reader before, been agreed that before I took the vessel, every 
 outfitting expence should be settled ; I had seen receipts for 
 them, but only a few days after the bankruptcy I was arrested 
 by the sail-maker, and soon after by three other persons ; the 
 whole amount of whose debts were above 500. These people 
 aware that the bankrupt's dividends would be small, arrested 
 me, as master, in hopes my mother, rather than see me go to 
 prison, would pay or compromise ; but however good her will 
 might be, I knew it was quite out of her power, and had it 
 been even so, I would never have allowed it. I easily procured 
 bail and refused to give up the vessel's register, &c., and in 
 order to prevent another from being obtained, I wrote to the 
 Collectors of Customs, in London and Portsmouth, and stated 
 the circumstances, and that I still held the register as a 
 security for my debt. 
 
 On the 23rd of April, 18 , my bail being expired, it became 
 necessary to get special bail, or to surrender at the Sheriff's 
 Ward, Winchester; not one gleam appeared to cheer the 
 dismal prospect. I took leave of my dear family to go and 
 bury myself in the deep recesses of a prison, where five feet 
 walls repel the light of day. 27th, at 4 in the afternoon, I 
 presented myself at the prison, pulled the bell, the keeper 
 took my paper, and without the slightest compliment, said 
 " come in ;" the horrid grating of the gate as it shut shot 
 through my heart. I was led into the keeper's house, when 
 having answered all questions put to me, and my trunk and 
 cot having undergone a strict examination, the clews and rope 
 taken from the cot, and a bottle of hollands taken out of the 
 
88 
 
 chest, a turnkey was called and ordered to take me to No. - 
 on the poor debtors side, that being the side I had chosen. 
 Just as I got inside the ward, from all parts of the building 
 resounded an imitation of the crowing of a cock, I asked the 
 turnkey what that noise was for, and was informed it was to 
 announce to the different inhabitants of the place that a fresh 
 bird was caught, or in other words my arrival among them. 
 A room in which there were already five men was appointed 
 for me ; I walked in, and taking one look round the place, 
 thought it the filthiest I had ever seen, and the language I heard, 
 even at that moment, disgusting. With these men then and 
 in this place I was to spend a certain portion of my life, how 
 long I knew not, and for debts I had never contracted. One of 
 the men of my room who was sitting at a low table drinking tea, 
 asked me to have some, and in the course of conversation told 
 me that he had been an inmate of that place two years, and 
 had three more to stop. He had been an innkeeper and some 
 fraud in his accounts had caused his long confinement. He 
 was respected even here, for he was called by the keepers and 
 
 prisoners Mr. W , an honor seldom given to a debtor on 
 
 the poor side. From his respectable appearance I endea- 
 voured to form an acquaintance, and succeeded, and during 
 my short stay in the poor side I received from him some very 
 valuable information relative to the conduct I had to pursue. 
 He informed me among other rules that every new prisoner 
 was bound to give a certain sum for the enjoyment of his 
 room mates ; I was also told that each poor debtor was allowed 
 daily a loaf of bread, nearly two pounds in weight, and weekly 
 two pounds and a half of prime meat, and a certain quantity 
 of firing was also allowed to each room. 
 
 At certain hours in the day an old woman, called throughout 
 the prison Old Betty, was admitted for the purpose of sup- 
 plying the prisoners with any trifle they might want ; and 
 each debtor was also allowed to buy one pint of a certain 
 villainous compound called by her, beer, twice in the day. The 
 
89 
 
 arrival of this old lady was the time for me to pay my garnish ; 
 on being called on I threw down a seven-shilling piece, which 
 being far more than was expected, was hailed with noisy ac- 
 clamation. In order to avoid joining them, I laid my cot in 
 the cleanest corner I could find, and endeavoured to drop 
 into sweet forgetfulness of human care, but rest for a time 
 was fled; the difference of circumstances, the horrid noise 
 and riot of the place, all joined to my own painful reflections, 
 prevented my taking any rest that night, and to avoid being 
 disturbed I affected to be asleep. At nine a turnkey came in 
 to count heads, and having satisfied himself there were six, 
 locked the door and departed ; the night was very wet, and it 
 blew a gale ; the panes of glass over the door of the room 
 being broken, the rain beat in upon my bed which got wet and 
 uncomfortable. Early in the morning of the sabbath the 
 door was opened, I rose, dressed, and in order to avoid com- 
 pany went down into the yard ; I observed that the master's 
 side and the poor side was only separated by iron bars and a 
 gate, which opened from one into the other ; I had been 
 walking but a few minutes when a very respectable man, appa- 
 rently a farmer, came out on the opposite side, and on coming 
 close to the bars spoke to me, and from him I learnt that the 
 difference between the master's side and mine, was, that the 
 debtors on the master's side were obliged to supply them- 
 selves ; they had nothing allowed, and previous to going in 
 were obliged to pay ten shillings to the keeper, which ten shil- 
 lings were for the rent of a room to themselves, in which there 
 was a good feather bed and bedding, four chairs, one or two 
 tables, fire-irons, &c. After the first four weeks half-a-crown 
 was paid weekly, and except in case of the prison being 
 crowded with master debtors, which seldom occurred, no two 
 prisoners were put together unless by their own request ; that 
 the expence was greater I felt aware, but the comfort of a 
 private room counter-balanced all the extra cost. I determined 
 to apply for admission as soon as possible, and here again I 
 
 G 
 
90 
 
 saw the folly of beginning any thing of which I had not con- 
 sidered the end. Had I taken a moment's pains to enquire 
 into the rules of the prison and at once gone to the master's 
 side,, I might have saved my seven shillings, my bottle of 
 Hollands,, and my cot geer, all of which were lost to me ; 
 for as the master debtors were considered superior, so their 
 search was far less exact. About eight o'clock, when the 
 gaoler's son came in to serve out the bread, I asked to be re- 
 moved, the hand extended with a loaf for me was instantly 
 withdrawn, and another one pushed forward to receive the 
 ten shillings, which I readily gave, and with a " thank you 
 sir," the master key came out, and I was in three steps raised 
 to the supreme degree of a master debtor; as to the rent 
 there could be no put off, credit here was dead, it was to 
 come at the appointed time or the threshold must again be 
 crossed. Among the many debtors on the master's side, 
 was a prisoner who was not a debtor, he was a venerable old 
 man, one of the society of friends, who had carried on the 
 hardware business in a town not very distant, and in the course 
 of trade had purchased some copper, on which was the broad 
 arrow ; it was found on his premises, he was sent to Win- 
 chester, tried, and sentenced to pay a fine, and be confined in 
 the prison one year. His age, infirmities, and above all, some 
 gold got him a room on the debtors' side, where I first had the 
 pleasure of his acquaintance ; his room was* next to mine, and 
 with the simplicity of his ee thee, and thou," I was really pleased. 
 The first morning I was asked to breakfast with him, which 
 I accepted, and his kind attention served in a great measure to 
 reconcile me to myself and my present situation. During the 
 many hours of solitude I could enjoy here, I reflected upon 
 my conduct while in command of the schooner, and although 
 I could see much carelessness to condemn, and a great 
 deal of money spent which I might have saved; still that 
 
 money was my own, and in my dealings with Mr. , I 
 
 could not see one just reason he could have to find fault. 
 
91 
 
 After a week or two were gone by I wrote to my wife, who, 
 in order to soothe the solitude of a prison hastened to me, and 
 as no female was allowed to sleep within its walls, she passed 
 the whole of the day with me going out at five in the evening. 
 Among the master debtors a sort of dinner club was formed, 
 where any who chose could dine. A good joint of meat was 
 bought and cooked ; after dinner the expence was calculated, 
 and each paid his share, which was usually from ninepence to 
 one shilling. By this means, we lived rather better, and spent 
 an hour or two together daily ; and even then, within those 
 chilling walls, there were men of intelligence, and of a very 
 superior education. I had been there about one month when 
 
 a new prisoner, named S , was brought in on our side ; 
 
 it was about three in the afternoon when he was let in ; at 
 that time both the turnkeys were out, and the keeper himself 
 let him in. As usual, at five, the bell rung to warn all visitors 
 to quit the prison ; half an hour after the under turnkey, who 
 had returned, and had not been informed that a new debtor 
 had arrived, was crossing the yard, observed a person whom 
 he knew to be a stranger loitering near the gate, hailed him 
 with " I say master, the bell be ringed this ha've hour, if- 
 master zees you here now,- 1 shall-get jawed ;" with a presence 
 of mind not common, the man answered (s well how can I get 
 out, if there is no one to let me out ; but open the gate, here 
 is a shilling for you for the delay ;" the gate was opened, and 
 the man disappeared. At six, muster took place ; the room 
 in which he ought to have been, was found empty ; a strict 
 search was made, but not the least clue could be found how 
 he had left the prison, and got clear of the iron bars. Hours 
 had passed by, when by some means it came out that the 
 under turnkey had opened the gate and set the prisoner free. 
 To describe the rage of the keeper is impossible, for if the 
 man was not found and again placed within the prison, he 
 became liable for his debts, however great their amount ; even 
 if found, it was not legal to take him, and from his short stay 
 
 G2 
 
92 
 
 no one knew much of him. By the escape of the prisoner, 
 
 Mr. W had unexpectedly incurred a debt of above 200, 
 
 and the poor fellow as unexpected a release. Mr. W paid 
 
 the debt; the turnkey was discharged, and all went on as 
 usual. Incapable of paying the debts, for which I was a 
 prisoner, and unwilling to do so even if I had the means, for 
 they were not mine, I determined to take the benefit of the 
 insolvent act. Time passed on, the rules of the prison on the 
 master debtors side were not severe ; nothing was wanting 
 to any whose pockets were well filled ; to each of those, who 
 called themselves my creditors, I sent a schedule, giving them 
 notice that I intended to take the benefit of the act, not having 
 the means to pay. The time when it was necessary for the 
 creditors to file a declaration was at hand ; if the declaration 
 was not filed by a certain day I was free. For a few days 
 previous to that, I was in the most miserable anxiety ; every 
 time the bell rung or the gate opened, every noise, however 
 common, made me shudder. The evening previous to the 
 day in which I was again to be free (if no declaration came), 
 was one of intense suffering ; I remained in my room all the 
 afternoon, retired to bed early, thinking the dreaded paper 
 would not arrive while I slept. It was a disturbed sleep ; a 
 little after midnight I awoke ; by the dim light of a rush 
 candle, I looked at my watch. The time had gone by, no 
 declaration had been filed, I must be at liberty within twenty- 
 four hours. About nine in the morning, Mr. , the keeper 
 
 called my name, asked me for above three pounds for fees, and 
 having given him the money, the gate was opened ; I looked 
 back, saw the bars behind me, and again I breathed the air of 
 freedom. Every thing seemed strange to me, although my 
 confinement had been short, only ten weeks, I felt a weight 
 removed from my spirits not to be expressed. 
 
 Next day I had the happiness of seeing my dear mother, 
 and my little ones. The bankrupt's affairs had been closed, 
 his docket signed, and he was again carrying on business. 
 
93 
 
 The amount of my part of the vessel which had cost 247 
 only sixteen months before, was now only 64 8s. Od, which 
 amount had been paid to my mother by my order ; besides 
 the part of the vessel I had thrown in a claim for wages 
 during my service in her ; and for that period, the Assignees 
 agreed to allow me 25 10s. as a full balance of account ; 
 there was no alternative, that or nothing was the word; I took it. 
 I had now been so long out of employment that it became 
 necessary that I should find something to do, I tried all pos- 
 sible means, went from place to place, but nothing offered ; 
 some friends advised me to advertise in the papers ; I did so 
 for a situation as chief mate of a ship, a situation I was little 
 calculated to fill after having been master of a vessel however 
 small. I received several letters in answer to my advertise- 
 ment, but the personal appearance of the master of a large 
 ship called the Phrenix settled matters ; she was a ship of 
 nearly eight hundred tons in the transport service; he seemed 
 well satisfied with me, and I liked him very well ; the ship 
 had then the Kerry Militia on board, bound to Ireland. Early 
 in August, 1814, I went on board and was likely to be very 
 comfortable ; I had a good cabin to myself and took my meals 
 with the master. All went on very smoothly for about 
 three weeks, and no doubt would have continued to do so, but 
 that the master had a son on board, a lad of about sixteen 
 years of age, who told his father whatever was done in his 
 absence, and very frequently what was never done or thought 
 of. Having found him out in telling several falsehoods to his 
 father, I pulled his ears ; he flew to his father, who ran on 
 deck, some words ensued, and among other things, I told him 
 I was above being put under the guardianship of a boy, and 
 that I would leave the ship immediately ; the master told me 
 that since I had been with him every thing had gone on ex- 
 tremely to his satisfaction, that he would be sorry to lose me, 
 begged I would remain ; but it was of no use, my determi- 
 nation was fixed, I left him, and was sorry for it afterwards. 
 
94 
 
 A fatal spirit of pride, and bad temper, induced me to leave a 
 ship where I might have been comfortable, and again cast 
 myself upon the wide world to seek support. I returned 
 home, all were surprised, but none reproached me, but with a 
 glance ; I could observe the pain it caused my poor wife, to 
 see me again out of employ. Again I advertised, save peace 
 was just then spreading her silver wings ; transports were 
 useless, and shipping in general unemployed ; no success 
 attended my second advertisement, my little stock of money 
 was fast wasting, nothing was likely to replenish my purse ; 
 my friends advised me to try my fortune in France, as I spoke 
 the French tongue far better than the English. It was likely 
 that in that country just as commerce, long dormant, was bud- 
 ding forth, I might do well ; little consideration was necessary, 
 the state of my affairs allowed no means of change. I sold 
 above half my furniture at an immense sacrifice, procured a 
 passage in a trader called PEsperance, for Honfleur, only three 
 leagues from Havre de Grace. In her I took my wife and 
 two children, and at eleven at night, on one Sunday in Octo- 
 ber, 1814, entered the basin at Honfleur. English vessels had 
 of late been put under quarantine, we were therefore pre- 
 vented from landing on our arrival ; my first care was to 
 enquire who the inspecting doctor was. A person who stood 
 
 on the edge of the basin replied that his name was B , 
 
 that he was most probably still up, as he had been that evening 
 attending some lectures at his lodge. I immediately wrote a 
 note to him, stating that my wife and children were sea-sick, 
 and if he would permit us to land, it would be deemed a great 
 favour ; in about a quarter of an hour the messenger returned 
 accompanied by the doctor, who having asked some few 
 questions, observed that a cook was of more use than a doctor, 
 permitted us to land, and took us himself to a respectable 
 French Inn, bearing the sign of the white horse (Le cheval 
 blanc] . The hostess, a fine fat Frenchwoman, with her stiff 
 starched cap, came out at the surgeon's call, and promised every 
 
95 
 
 act of kindness. A roast fowl was placed on the table, and after 
 a good supper, we all retired to a comfortable bed the chief 
 luxury of a French tavern. Here we remained two days, until 
 we got two very comfortable ready furnished rooms at a 
 drapers, at ten shillings per month. Although my living was 
 not expensive, nor could it well be so, for just at the peace 
 provisions in these small outports were very reasonable, still 
 my money grew short, and I found myself under the necessity 
 of contracting debts, I had but little hope of discharging. 
 
 Of all the places in France to seek employment, Honfleur 
 was the least likely to prove successful ; at its most flourishing 
 time it was only a small seaport for fishermen, and now and 
 then a privateer, but now every thing was at stand still. The 
 basins were full of vessels, but they were prizes taken from 
 the English during the war, and lay rotting in tiers and not 
 one of them was likely ever to fit out again. Nothing seemed 
 to turn up to favour me, again I advertised in the Havre de 
 Grace Gazette ; there was only one reply to the advertisement 
 which was at so low a rate that it could by no means, however 
 economical, support my family. To a person with a moderate 
 income Honfleur would have been a delightful little spot ; its 
 beautiful scenery and healthy situation had to the convalescent 
 great attractions. The town if such it may be called, is built 
 at the foot of a hill on which stands the noted Chapelle of 
 Notre Dame, entirely supported by the vows of seamen made 
 in the hour of danger. 
 
 During my stay at Honfleur I saw one of these vows per- 
 formed ; it had been made with the consent of his crew by the 
 master of a brigantine, while in a gale at sea. From a con- 
 versation I had with the chief mate of her, I found that during 
 the gale she had been struck by a sea, hove on her beam ends 
 without any hope of her rising again. In this critical situation 
 and while the men were clinging to her weather rigging, a 
 word went from the master to the crew ilf ant fair un veu, all 
 responded qu'on le fasse. The vow was that if saved they 
 
96 
 
 would dedicate to the Chapelle of Notre Dame, the foresail 
 of the brigantine. The vessel was saved and as religiously 
 fulfilling a vow is deemed a most important duty, the first 
 night of her arrival in port was appropriated to the ceremony. 
 The sail was unbent, the crew dressed in their most decent 
 apparel assembled at sun-set on the edge of the basin, near 
 the brigantine, where the sail neatly made up was laying, 
 shouldered it and by slow degrees carried it up the steep ascent 
 of the hill, while hundreds of spectators were assembled to 
 witness the interesting scene. On this occasion the Chapelle is 
 always illuminated with a vast number of large wax candles. 
 The sail was laid at the foot of the altar, a number of prayers 
 were repeated by the Cure, to which all responded, it being a 
 thanksgiving for the safety of the vessel and her prosperous 
 return into port ; after which the sail was loosed and every 
 part of it minutely examined by a sailmaker who attended 
 for that purpose, and who, according to his examination, con- 
 scientiously set a price on it. The master of the vessel came 
 forward, laid the amount on the altar ; the sail was again 
 made up, prayers said, the men shouldered the sail and all 
 returned to their ship in good order, and thus ended the 
 vow. Considering it nothing but superstition I hastened down 
 the hill. 
 
 In case of a vow it is customary for the master and crew 
 of the vessel to place in the Chapelle, a drawing or model, 
 representing the vessel in the exact situation she was in when 
 the vow was made ; in consequence of which the roof of the 
 Chapelle was nearly all overhung with vessels, some as much 
 as three feet long, with masts gone and hanging over the side, 
 while others had their bowsprits and other spars gone and 
 otherwise damaged. The walls of the Chapelle were also 
 nearly covered with drawings, representing such disasters as 
 could not be placed in effigy. Every thing tending to the 
 safety of the distressed vessels was of course attributed to the 
 kind interference of the Saint in behalf of the suffering mariners. 
 
97 
 
 Wishing my wife and little ones to have a view of the beau- 
 tiful scenery on the sides of the river Seine, as also to see the 
 Chapelle of Notre Dame, one afternoon I took them all up the 
 hill; the Cure was standing at his own door enjoying the 
 beautiful view, supposing rightly that I was an Englishman, 
 he took but little notice of me until I addressed him in his 
 own tongue, to ask some trifling question, just sufficient to 
 introduce me, in order to have an invitation to view his very 
 fine gardens. He kindly invited me in, told me a long story 
 of miracles performed by vows made to his chapel, took us 
 through his grounds, and from their extent I gathered that 
 they brought as considerable a revenue to his chapel, as did 
 the superstition of the seamen ; among the relics he shewed me, 
 what he called a portion of the true cross ; though nothing 
 could induce me to believe it, still I did not wish to wound 
 the feelings of the venerable old man, by expressing a doubt 
 of what most likely he himself verily believes ; but perceiving 
 by my countenance that I could only believe to oblige him, 
 with a French shrug of his shoulders he turned to something 
 else. After having taken a glass of wine, and a little fruit, we 
 left him, and returned home. I frequently saw him after there 
 as well as at Havre, and whenever he met us unavoidably, 
 stopped to kiss the children. 
 
98 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 THREE MONTHS' SOJOURN IN FRANCE. 
 
 Oh England dear, 
 
 Where e're I roam, whatever realms I see, 
 My heart uutravelled fondly turns to thee. 
 
 AN afternoon or two after having visited the Chapelle of 
 Notre Dame, half business, half pleasure, took me into the 
 Gaffe Borre, I called for some beer, and while taking it had 
 a view of the numerous faces which the mirrors round the room 
 reflected. At one table sat two gentlemen playing piquet, the 
 one was dressed in the uniform of the navy during the reign of 
 Napoleon, and the other, who from his age and the deference 
 paid him by the younger, I took to be his father, was dressed in 
 an old fashioned, almost quaker cut coat of the middle ranks 
 of French with his three cornered hat ; each had before him a 
 cup of coffee. 
 
 After I had sat there a few minutes a person who seemed 
 to be well known to all, entered the Gaffe, and having familiarly 
 nodded to several of the persons assembled, pulled from the 
 side pocket of his great coat, a parcel of parchments neatly and 
 separately folded ; looking at the master of the house who 
 surrounded by his bottles, &c., was standing in his bar, he 
 said Monsr. Borre, His Majesty in his goodness has been 
 pleased to invest you with the order of the Lilly, at the same^ 
 time presenting him with one of the said parchments. This 
 
99 
 
 said Lilly was an order wdrn mostly by the middle ranks of 
 life, arid consisted of a white ribbon passed through two but- 
 ton holes,, to which was suspended a small silver Lilly. This 
 worn as before stated, was a passport into respectable company ; 
 some there were who sometimes decorated their button holes 
 with the Lilly whose claims were doubtful, but like a talisman 
 it passed current every where. Monsr. Borre took the offered 
 gift, and casting his eye over the words fidelle citoyen, said, 
 that will cost me nine livres (seven and six pence,) meaning 
 that the Lilly would cost that sum. Several others were dis- 
 tributed, and the man was about to retire when he observed 
 the two gentlemen before mentioned ; I looked at him and as he 
 held one more parchment in his hand, I observed that he 
 looked hard at the junior of the two and betrayed indecision. 
 However after a few moments thought, he collected courage 
 
 and addressing the younger gentleman, said, Monsr. M , 
 
 His Majesty has also invested you with the Lilly. It would 
 be impossible for any one who had seen his countenance to 
 forget it when thus addressed, it was the concentration of 
 moral energy, the index of high and settled resolutions, and 
 taking from his shoulder his epaulet and the knot which graced 
 it opposite, threw them both on the pavement and stamping 
 on them, thus addressed the messenger of honors ; go and 
 tell Louis what I have done; Je sers Napoleon. His father, 
 looking at him with delight in his countenance, caught his 
 hand and said, my son had you acted in a different manner, 
 I would have disinherited you, I glory in my allegiance to my 
 Sovereign. The result was that the young man was struck off 
 the navy list, and himself and father deemed suspected persons, 
 and only respected by his own family circle. 
 
 I might have remained at Honfleur a long time and no pros- 
 pect of employment, so upon consideration I determined to 
 remove my family to Havre de Grace, that being (as it were) 
 the capital of Seine, and of great commerce, I might hope for 
 something ; I accordingly took a passage in one of the three 
 
100 
 
 vessels which then constantly ran between the two ports, and 
 in which the company were a mixture of all ranks. There 
 being no distinction, benches were placed right across her 
 deck, on which the lowest ranks might be seated alongside the 
 rich. As the vessel passed close under the hill on which the 
 Chapelle of Notre Dame was situated, the master, who was 
 steering, taking off his hat said " Allans Messieurs Mes- 
 dames un pater pour Notre Dame" in an instant all hats were 
 off, and all lips on the move ; I followed the example and 
 muttered something in which Notre Dame was in no way 
 concerned, and a couple of hours landed me on the pier at 
 Havre. I would gladly have accepted any thing to procure 
 an honest livelihood for myself and family, and for a moment 
 hope dawned on my bosom, for as I sat at dinner at the 
 London Tavern, some person who sat opposite to me called 
 
 me by name. The landlord Mr. W , who sat at the head 
 
 of the table asked me if I was any way related to Mr. , 
 
 I answered that he was my father, when the landlord informed 
 me that my father and himself had been fellow apprentices to 
 the sea, had been friends for years, indeed through life 5 and 
 added he, after a long conversation, I am not ashamed young 
 man to own a debt of gratitude I owe to your father ; he is 
 no more, fain would I serve his son. 
 
 Had I, oh, had I just at that moment embraced a friend- 
 ship which must have been beneficial to me, and made to 
 him a candid statement of my circumstances, I should, no 
 doubt, soon have got some employment either ashore or at 
 sea, for his being postmaster would have enabled him to help 
 me. I cannot account for it, but a strange infatuation, a pride 
 I now detest, a desire of appearing even for a short time inde- 
 pendent, induced me to withhold from him my confidence, 
 but instead of doing so I repaid his kindness with ingratitude ; 
 I dwindled from bad to worse, and was at last obliged to leave 
 France. Worthless of his kind favour, the old gentleman con- 
 tinued kind to the very moment of my leaving ; I found, but 
 
101 
 
 too late, that France was a hopeless place, and made up my 
 mind to return to England, but as Portsmouth was a naval 
 port, no hope of a ship for the merchant service there, I sent 
 my poor distressed family to Portsmouth in the packet, and 
 myself went to London in a Welch brig, the master who was 
 before known to me, kindly giving me a passage. Late in 
 January we left Havre with light winds at S. S. E., and con- 
 tinued so the whole day, but towards night the wind increased 
 to a gale and hauled more to the Eastward. The brig was a 
 dull sailer, and was besides deeply laden, so that to approach 
 the English Coast was dangerous to a great degree. The 
 second day it blew so very hard that we were obliged to heave 
 her to; about the middle of the second night the wind 
 hauled .so far to the Southward, that the vessel got completely 
 embayed to the Eastward of Selsey Bill, and the sea so heavy 
 that it was driving us fast ashore. Fearful she might in the 
 darkness of the night run on Bognor Rocks, I advised the 
 master at every risk to carry on canvas and get to the East- 
 ward of the rocks, and should it be found impossible to keep 
 her off shore to put her right before the blast, and run her 
 upon the soft sandy beach a little east of Bognor, where as 
 the ebb was making she would be safe enough ; providentially 
 my advice was not required, for the wind shifted to S. W. and 
 thence to West, and drove us cheerfully on our way. February 
 7th, we moored the brig in Pickle Herring tier in London river. 
 At that time a very great traffic was caried on from France 
 in cattle, corn, poultry fruits, &c., and landed at various sea 
 ports in England. These Frenchmen who knew no word of 
 English were glad to meet with any one who by speaking 
 their own tongue could make and conclude all their bar- 
 gains ; in this way I met with a very lucrative employment, 
 for the purchaser aware of what I could do, paid me to 
 make for him an advantageous bargain; while on the 
 other hand, the seller paid me to stand on his side, thus 
 doubly feed, I made a good living of it for sometime. I 
 
102 
 
 cannot say that it was just to receive fees on both sides, 
 but as I write the facts, and do not hide faults, I consider it a 
 duty to name it here ; but like all my other scenes of pros- 
 perity, this did not last long, like a shadow it vanished and 
 left no trace behind. The English farmers fancying that 
 the French were encroaching on their privileges and giving 
 the poor of the land the blessings of plenty too soon, pe- 
 titioned the government to forbid the import of corn and 
 cattle. Their petition was favourably received, cattle and 
 corn were prohibited from entering British ports, and a 
 duty so heavy was laid on fruit and eggs, that bringing them 
 over would scarcely pay. Several French vessels were found 
 with prohibited goods, such as silks, lace, &c. ; one I knew 
 very well, Le Providence, who had adopted a tin topmast, I 
 mean not that the topmast was meant to carry sail upon, it 
 was merely pointed on coming out or going into port ; and 
 at a convenient opportunity it was sent on shore, discharged 
 of its valuable contents, and again found its way to the vessel ; 
 but to this also an information laid a stop, the vessel was 
 seized. I do not mean to argue in favour of smuggling, far 
 from it, I consider it injurious to the revenue, and I in duty 
 bound, as a servant of my country, to prevent it ; but I con- 
 sider that the man who enters a vessel, gets extra wages and 
 the best of usage, shares in the profits of the voyage, and 
 then gives an information, is a very wretch and deserves the 
 severest punishment. I was well acquainted with the master 
 and owner of a fine sloop of seventy tons, that regularly traded 
 from Cherbourg to Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight, or South- 
 ampton ; this man I verily believe would not have allowed 
 one particle of smuggled goods to enter his vessel, for she 
 was his all. On one of his trips, laden with poultry, fruit, 
 eggs, &c., he took two female passengers, and a genteel look- 
 ing man; one of the ladies appeared to be enceinte, and 
 extremely stout; being in this way, of course the polite 
 Frenchman paid her the kindest attention. The wind being 
 
103 
 
 unfavourable and fresh, and the lady very ill from sea sick- 
 ness, &c. was reported by her companion to be in a most 
 critical situation, and earnestly begged that she might be landed 
 at the Isle of Wight ; her wishes were gratified, and she was 
 landed. About an hour after landing, the penetrating eye of 
 an English custom-house officer observed that the lady's shape 
 approached more to a cask than to her pretended state ; she 
 was taken to the custom-house at Cowes, and without the aid 
 of a surgeon or midwife delivered, not reader of an infant, 
 but of a vast quantity of rich French lace and silk ; it appeared 
 that this had been for months her employment, going to and 
 from France. As it was uncertain to what extent the revenue 
 might have been defrauded, the officers of customs were 
 anxious to ascertain the vessel she came in, and without any 
 hesitation she declared the name of the master and vessel. An 
 order was sent to Portsmouth to seize the vessel ; the poor 
 man unconscious of the distressing fate that awaited him, was 
 sitting quietly at his meal when the dreadful mark was put 
 on his mast, which brought ruin and poverty to himself and 
 family. The poor man unacquainted with the laws of England 
 and totally ignorant of its language applied to me ; after some 
 consideration, I petitioned the collector of the customs in 
 London, several letters passed, and at last the vessel was given 
 up, but it had cost him nearly the value of his freight in 
 expences. Times in England were then at their lowest ebb, 
 it might be said that to the seamen the wheel of fortune was 
 completely down, and which ever way it turned, must be for 
 the best and upwards ; at all parts of the town seamen were 
 seen begging. Some months passed and no employment, at 
 
 last I got intelligence that a Mr. T , a relation of my wife 
 
 was about to fit out a large ship, I found him out, and stated 
 to him my desire to sail with him. He gladly received me 
 on board as second mate, observing he felt sorry that he had 
 only a few days before engaged with a young man as chief 
 
104 
 
 mate, or I should have been the man. I felt thankful for my 
 present situation, well humbled by past misfortunes, I cheer- 
 fully began my duty. The John was not the ship I should 
 have chosen, had I had any choice ; she had been an old 
 Danish Indiaman, purchased at a low price, after having been 
 wrecked on the North coast, fitted out at a little expence as 
 possible, and if closely examined, would scarcely have been 
 deemed sea worthy; but there was no alternative, that or 
 none. The ship was chartered to go to Fiume, in the Gulf of 
 Venice, for a cargo of timber for government, and return to 
 England ; the whole number of our crew amounted to nineteen 
 men and boys, all included, not one too many for a ship of six 
 hundred tons. Early in August we left England, and had 
 only been out a few days, when in two days four of our men 
 were taken ill, and shortly after, it was found that the small 
 pox, that fatal disorder, had broke out in our little mess; 
 favoured with a N. W. breeze, we soon got into the Straights, 
 and to the sick the heat was dreadful. In order to give them 
 as much air as possible, and prevent the infection from 
 spreading, we removed the sick into the long boat, spreading 
 a light awning over them ; two lingered some weeks and died, 
 the other two aided by a good constitution recovered ; not one 
 item of their recovery was due to medicine, for they had none ; 
 we had a medicine chest, but it might just as well have been 
 on shore, for none of us knew what to do with the contents. 
 Early in October, the ship anchored in Fiume, a large open 
 bay, almost in the bottom of which the village or town is 
 situated, at the foot of a high range of hills which separate 
 it from Trieste, it is delightful even in October, but winter 
 after that soon sets in, and it becomes bleak and bitter cold ; 
 provisions are very reasonable. The market price for our beef 
 there was less than two pence sterling per pound of twenty 
 two ounces. Our ballast was thrown out, while we were in 
 quarantine, but our cargo was got in very slowly, for from 
 
105 
 
 the openness of the bay, we were obliged to lay a great way 
 from shore, and float all the oak timber on fir rafts. Christ- 
 mas was passed before our cargo was completed. 
 
 January 8th, a fine ship called the Lord Cathcart of Hull, 
 also loaded with timber sailed for England, expecting no doubt 
 to arrive there long before us ; 10th, early in the morning, we 
 hove short ; at 10 the master came off, we endeavoured to 
 trip, but all the purchases we could raise were insufficient, 
 until a heavy swell setting in started it for us. Night came 
 on before we got clear of the bay, it was tempestuous with 
 snow and bitter cold ; the vessel was old and laboured much, 
 making much water, the master having inconsiderately taken 
 a heavy deck load which made the ship dangerous to a great 
 degree ; could it have been accomplished, it would have been 
 thrown overboard, but with our strength that was not to be 
 thought of; providentially the weather moderated. 19th the 
 weather fine and settled, about four miles to leeward we saw 
 a small low island with a ship on shore on it and the sea beating 
 over her, and in her we soon recognised our ill fated consort 
 the Cathcart. However in need of assistance they might have 
 been, we could render them none, for the sea was running 
 with such fury on the rocks, that no boat could have approached 
 the spot. There was a smoke plainly to be seen which gave 
 us hope that the crew, or at least part of them were safe, and 
 our own preservation required all our care. The wind fell 
 light and although we had given the island a wide berth, still 
 it required every stitch of our canvas to preserve that dis- 
 tance ; all our ropes being frozen made setting our canvas no 
 easy task. 
 
 Some months afterwards I saw the mate of the Cathcart, 
 who with four of the men were all that escaped. The tale 
 they told of their sufferings upon the island was truly heart 
 rending ; he is still living to relate the fatal affair. On the 
 llth of March the John anchored in Plymouth, at which port 
 our cargo was to be landed ; lumpers were hired to discharge 
 
 H 
 
106 
 
 the ship, and as she required repairs or condemnation, the 
 crew were paid off and myself among the number. Before I 
 left Plymouth I had the happiness of hearing that my family 
 were well. 16th, I left Plymouth in one of the Portsmouth 
 traders and thence to London on the 19th; just as I was 
 turning the corner to go into the street in which my family 
 were residing, I nearly stumbled over my two little ones, each 
 with their little green bag in hand, containing books ; the little 
 cherubs knew me and returned home ; in the joys of a happy 
 return, toils, cares and dangers were forgotten, and I then 
 flattered myself, but vainly, that they were at an end. 
 
107 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 ' Tlie dearest spot on earth to me 
 
 " Is home, sweet home ; 
 The fairyland [ long to see, 
 
 " Is home, sweet home." 
 
 1 There where my vows are truly plighted, 
 " There where hearts are so united ; 
 All the world besides I've slighted, 
 " For home, sweet home." 
 
 " BYRON.' 
 
 A few days alone were sufficient to convince me that I must 
 not long remain at home ; I looked round the docks, nothing 
 was stirring ; if there was any difference it was even worse than 
 before I left England. In my rambles I saw men who had 
 been to my knowledge masters and chief mates of vessels, who 
 would now gladly have gone before the mast ; to paint the 
 distress that pervaded every part of the merchant service is 
 beyond my power. The immense number of men discharged 
 from ships of war who had foolishly spent their money and 
 had now got into deep distress strolling about the streets, some 
 begging, others worse, was truly painful to those who possessed 
 any feeling. One man I can never forget, a fine stout athletic 
 man of a very seamanlike appearance was not begging, for the 
 
 H2 
 
108 
 
 law forbade it, he was singing with a fine open manly voice 
 expressive of feeling, the burthen of his song was 
 
 Then oh protect the hardy tar, 
 
 Be mindful of his merit, 
 And when again you're plunged in war, 
 
 He'll show his daring spirit. 
 
 when the song was ended the poor creature collected a few 
 half-pence from the crowd that had gathered to listen to him ; 
 it was a subsistence, but it was a wretched one, and such as 
 had I even been calculated for it, could never have adopted. 
 My pay from the John was of no great amount, time passed 
 and it melted away, I found it high time to do something. In 
 the latter end of April I observed bills posted up for seamen 
 
 and petty officers for His Majesty's Ship R , of eighty 
 
 guns; for a moment and only for a moment the bills took my 
 attention, but when I looked round on my real situation, 
 scanned the future, my thoughts seemed to return to those 
 bills. There certainly was in that moment some divine inter- 
 position, for from that day to this, and it is a long period, I 
 have never looked back with regret. Of all the places then 
 dreaded by seamen in the merchant service, a ship of war 
 is the most. I fully had my share of the prejudice, but there 
 was no alternative ; I mentioned to my family my idea of 
 seeking in a ship of war, that support I could meet with 
 no where else. Painful indeed was the parting from my home. 
 May the 6th, 1820, early in the morning, I passed by the 
 
 R , then fitting out, and for the first time in my life saw 
 
 the monstrous fabric that was to be my residence for several 
 years, with a shudder of grief I cannot describe ; I went 
 on shore to a public-house, took breakfast, and after it wrote 
 a letter to the Commanding Officer, now a Post Captain, and 
 without any error stated my present and passed situation. I 
 did not boast of my abilities, either as a seaman or in any 
 other way, but stated exactly what I could do, and concluded 
 
109 
 
 my letter by saying that I wished to devote my future life to 
 my country, humbly offering him my services; my letter 
 ended, I hired a boat, went alongside the ship, and having 
 stated that I had a letter for the Commanding Officer, was 
 soon admitted. 
 
 I had but little time to wait, for before I had time to look 
 
 round Lieut. S came up the after hatchway, and walked 
 
 straight to me; at one glance I perceived that there was 
 nothing in his appearance calculated to inspire confidence, his 
 manner was distant and repelling ; as he approached me, I 
 touched my hat, when he said, " are you the young man who 
 has a letter for me ?" Yes sir, said I, and presented my letter ; 
 he opened and read it with the greatest attention, seemed to 
 pause over the several parts as if making up his mind upon 
 some subject, while I remained in miserable anxiety; when 
 ended, he made me pronounce my name twice, folded the 
 letter up carefully, and having put it into his waistcoat pocket, 
 retired a few paces as if to have a full view of me. 
 
 Never, oh never while I breathe shall I forget the scruti- 
 nizing look he gave me, it seemed to search my very soul, and 
 speak volumes ; but I stood unawed ; like the gamester, it was 
 my last cast, on that game depended my all, perhaps my life. 
 
 Satisfied with his penetration, Lieutenant S asked me a 
 
 great many questions about seamanship, was satisfied with 
 the answers I gave, and received and victualled me. I com- 
 menced duty as a first class petty officer in His Majesty's 
 navy. Reader, thus begins my naval career. Unacquainted 
 as I was with the routine of duty I was appointed to perform, 
 with the rules I had to observe, I determined as far as it was 
 possible to fulfil my duty, and by a strict attention prove to 
 the officer who had been my friend, that I was not unworthy 
 of his kind favour, and during the whole time I served under 
 
 Lieutenant S not one fault was found with any part of 
 
 my conduct ; that I merited it I must in justice acknowledge, 
 but if a man did his best Mr. S was satisfied. 
 
110 
 
 The R was not a comfortable ship, but a constant suc- 
 cession of duty, and a certain degree of confidence reposed in 
 me by my commanding officer made time pass away better 
 
 by far than I expected. Lieutenant S was a thorough 
 
 bred tar of the old school, a strict disciplinarian who carried 
 the duty ori himself, and if at any time he trusted the charge 
 of the ship to any one, it was to a person in whom his con- 
 fidence was not misplaced ; in a ship with nearly seven hundred 
 men, some of which were the very worst characters, a strict 
 observance of orders was necessary, but although those orders 
 were numerous and strictly enforced, still as none interfered 
 with each other, any man might obey without very much 
 danger. In order to make those of my readers who have 
 never been in a ship of war a little acquainted with one, I will 
 
 describe one week's duty as it went on, on board the R , 
 
 then the smartest ship in commission, and I believe bore the 
 
 sway until 1 830, when the A , 84, eclipsed her ; but to begin 
 
 my week's routine ; on Sunday morning a few minutes before 
 four o'clock, the boatswain and his mates are called, and 
 standing at one of the hatchways, as the bell strikes eight 
 (four o'clock), the officer who has had the middle watch, calls 
 out (e turn the hands up ;" the boatswain in reply gives one 
 twit, twit, with his call, his mates do the same in succession, 
 one long whistle succeeds, and the boatswain roars out " all 
 hands holystone decks," which is re-echoed by his mates. In a 
 moment, in the twinkling of an eye, all hands start out of their 
 hammocks, and half clothed rush up the hatchways ; however 
 deep their sleep may be, however pleasing their dreams, that 
 pipe awakes all. Before the general routine of the service 
 was regulated as it is now, the boatswain and his mates 
 were allowed to carry three sisters, (three canes laid up like 
 a piece of rope) with which they lashed indiscriminately as the 
 men ran up, and woe to him who was last ; as soon as the 
 lower deck was cleared, centinels were placed at each of the 
 hatchways to prevent any one from going down ; the wash 
 
1)1 
 
 deck pumps were rigged, decks wet all over, and thickly 
 strewed with sand ; about two thirds of the men drop on their 
 knees, and with a holystone rub away at the decks, while the 
 other third supply a fresh layer of sand, and sprinkle water 
 when required ; a mate or midshipman of the watch stands in 
 front of the rank of men to prevent them from moving forward 
 before every portion of the deck has been completely rubbed 
 over. After the stones have been used for about one hour, 
 scrub brooms are used at all parts, and a complete wash 
 down with a great many buckets of water ; it is then dried up 
 with swabs, by which time it is nearly five bells, (half past 
 six) ; all hands are then allowed below to lash their hammocks 
 up, seven turns are the usual numbers hitched round the 
 hammock, the clews neatly made up, and the ends of lan- 
 yards and lashings left out, that the officer at each netting 
 may see that the necessary pointing has not been neglected. 
 As the bell strikes five, the boatswain's pipe with those 
 of his mates again thrill the nerves. ({ Up all hammocks/ 5 is 
 the cry at each hatchway ; instantly the hatchways are crowde d, 
 each eager to escape the disgrace of being last, and its con- 
 sequent punishment. 
 
 As the men are coming up, the first Lieutenant is patroling 
 from gangway to gangway, his eye cast on all parts, observing 
 any one whose hammock does not show the needful number 
 of turns, or is in any other way deficient, and woe to the luck- 
 less wight on whom his eye settles ; his name usually appears 
 on the black list the next day. About six bells, (seven o'clock,) 
 the hammocks are all stowed. The next whistle is "clean arms." 
 Those men at the guns, who are boarders or pikemen, or small 
 arm men, clean their arms, and for a quarter of an hour brick- 
 dust and oil succeeds the holystones and sand. At a quarter 
 past seven, the sentinel who has charge of the glass, comes up 
 the after hatchway, reports to the mate of the watch the time 
 to pipe to breakfast ; the mate in his turn walks across to the 
 first Lieutenant, and with a quarter-deck bow repeats, " the 
 
112 
 
 quarter, sir ;" the officer with an acknowledging nod, which 
 says as well as nod can say, I hear you, calls out to the 
 boatswain, " Mr. - -, pipe to breakfast/' again the gentle 
 twit, twit, begins ; at the well-known sound the cook of each 
 mess hurries down the hatchway to run up again to the coppers 
 to get his due proportion of cocoa for the number of men in his 
 mess ; half an hour is allowed for breakfast, the other quarter 
 is usually employed in preparing to send up top-gallant yards. 
 
 A few minutes before eight " clear lower deck" is the signal 
 for all the men to repair to their stations ; some of the topmen 
 who have to go aloft seeing a good opportunity of doubling on 
 the first Lieutenant, slyly creep up and stow themselves away 
 in the top, while the less fortunate have to run aloft as the 
 yard goes up, and before they reach the crosstrees, are nearly 
 exhausted for want of breath. 
 
 " Hands up top-gallant and royal yards" resounds from all 
 parts of the ship ; without any further order the yardropes are 
 manned, and all anxiously wait the word " sway out the 
 chains, (< topmen aloft sway away ;" at that word it seems as 
 if the man and the yard were running a race, Jack keeping 
 his eye on the yard as it goes up, anxiously looking out for 
 any favourable check the yard may meet on its way up to 
 ease his over exertion. The moment the yard is rigged, the 
 officer of the top looking over the top-rim calls out loudly, 
 " all ready," the fore, main, or mizen, as it may be ; the Master 
 or second Master attending the chronometer, comes up, walks 
 to the first Lieutenant, " eight o'clock, sir," who just putting 
 his hand to his cap calls out " strike the bell," ee cross away ;" 
 for a few moments the noise of the drums and band is deaf- 
 iiing. When this confusion is over, the next order is te watch 
 below, clean lower deck," c( watch on deck, square yards " and 
 now the second part of the morning rubbing commences, the 
 holystones are again in requisition, the tables, shelves, and 
 deck undergoes a complete cleaning ; brass-work, iron-work 
 about the mess, and other parts of the deck are well cleaned. 
 
113 
 
 " Clear for divisions" is the next duty, after which the bags 
 are stowed, the men sent up on deck. I do not know any 
 thing that could please a person, who had never before seen 
 such a place, so much as a ship of war's lower deck, particu- 
 larly a line of battle ship ; the guns with all their tackling in 
 good order, locks bright, mess shelves neatly arranged with 
 crockery and tin ware, chain cables, &c., all tend to inspire 
 the stranger with a high opinion of the navy of our country. 
 
 On Sunday the time for divisions is usually ten o'clock, 
 when the drum beats, at which time every man appears clean 
 at his division, of which there are five, consisting of one part 
 of each watch ; the first and third are the starboard watch, 
 second and fourth are the larboard, and the fifth consists of 
 the idlers, such men as keep no night watch, carpenters, 
 coopers, sailmakers, cooks, and cook's mates, &c. The clothing 
 of each man must be particularly clean, not a speck to be 
 visible ; of late years cropped hair has superseded long tails, 
 and blacking and brushes have found their way into the navy. 
 After the divisions have been mustered, and inspected by their 
 respective Lieutenants, all in turn according to his rank, report 
 to the Captain " all present sir", at the first, second, third, and 
 fourth division, as may be ; the Captain or Lieutenant of 
 marines next reports. When the Captain making his quarter- 
 deck bow, which seems to say I am ready, prepares to per- 
 form his evolution, looking steadfastly at every man as he goes 
 round ; arid should at that moment any poor creature, from 
 what ever cause it may be, be found not perfectly clean or 
 not dressed exactly in the uniform, ordered by the ship ; how 
 he shrinks from the sharp gaze of the Captain, happy if he 
 is passed by. 
 
 I have known many instances of Captains and Commanding 
 Officers seeing some slight errors either in clothing or in 
 duty, and knowing the man to be at other times careful, pass it 
 by without saying any thing, which had they been taken notice 
 of would have subjected him to punishment, which, however 
 
114 
 
 slight, would have wounded his feelings and in many instances 
 rendered him careless of his duty, and even of himself after- 
 wards. Every part of the deck, as well as the men, undergo a 
 strict examination, the hold even does not escape this scrutiny, 
 for from the frequent visits of the Commanding Officer, and the 
 weekly rounds of the Captain, no dirt can accumulate in any 
 part of the ship, all must be clean and consequently healthy. 
 
 Of Lieut. S it might be said that nothing escaped his 
 
 notice, he was at all parts at all hours, and it was a saying 
 
 among the seamen, " if you want to find Mr. S stand still 
 
 he will pass by you within a few minutes." As soon as this 
 examination is over and the Captain re-appears upon deck, 
 the drum beats the retreat, carpenters and quartermasters 
 are called to rig the church. If the weather is fine the awnings 
 are spread and the service takes place on the quarter deck, 
 stools are brought up from below for the men to sit on, while 
 chairs are placed for the Captain and Officers; flags are 
 neatly disposed round the capstan and in the ports to prevent 
 draft as well as to adorn the place of worship. All prepared, 
 the bell tolls just as on shore, the church pendant is hoisted 
 at the gaff end to announce to all other ships that divine service 
 is going on, and no boats are to board during that time. The 
 tolling is to warn all hands to repair to church, where, when 
 all are seated and quiet, the first Lieutenant reports to the 
 Captain, who soon comes up. If there is a clergyman in the 
 ship he performs the service, but if not, the Captain usually 
 goes through it. During the service all is quiet, but when 
 ended all is bustle and confusion, for a few minutes ; the 
 whistle again goes, down all stools, up spirits; spirits are got up 
 of which each man is allowed one gill per day ; up to June 
 1824, it was half a pint, when up, the proper portion is pumped 
 off into a small cask, the rest goes down again ; if at sea, at 
 seven bells, (half past eleven), all the officers are up taking 
 meridian altitude, and the Master having ascertained by the 
 sun that it is twelve o'clock, goes to the Captain or first Lieut- 
 
115 
 
 enant and with his best bow (e twelve o'clock sir ;" the Captain 
 in his turn reports to the Admiral, if a flag ship, and the 
 moment he re-appears the words " strike the bell eight, pipe to 
 dinner " in one moment all hands are at work ; one bell (half- 
 past twelve) is the seaman^s favourite bell, for it is then that 
 grog is piped ; the cook of each mess repairs to the grog tub, 
 where he receives one half-pint of the mixture for each man in 
 his mess, yet although he gets a half-pint a man, it by no means 
 follows that Jack gets that. There is to every mess a small 
 measure much less than the right one, one of these small 
 measures goes to each man, and the rest, which in some messes 
 is nearly half the full quantum, is called (plush) overplus, and 
 on this the two cooks of each mess sit and enjoy themselves 
 until sometimes those who in the morning were sworn friends 
 end the day in fighting. Now as cooking, as it is called, goes 
 round, every man in the mess has his turn, and his chance to 
 get drunk and to get into a hobble ; but there are some, though 
 few, who do not take a cooking day, and always find a ready 
 substitute to act in their place, and although a cook has much 
 to do, being answerable for the time being, that every thing is 
 clean and in order, yet many consider it a holiday. It was 
 such a holiday as I never took, many men who might have 
 been years in a ship, in comfort and respected, on that one day 
 blast perhaps their comfort and character, and while in the 
 gratification of the moment, commit deeds, at which in their 
 sober moments they would have shuddered. It was a positive 
 
 order in the R , that the tin ware should be kept perfectly 
 
 bright, or it was not to be kept in the mess. The mess to 
 which I belonged had one dozen and a half tin pots ; one of my 
 messmates a knowing sort of an Irishman, determined that our 
 mess should outshine all others, got some mercurial ointment 
 and having rubbed it over the tin, gave it all the beautiful gloss 
 of polished silver ; the officer of the deck on looking round the 
 messes, previous to inspection by the first Lieutenant, saw the 
 brilliancy of our pots, and went and found fault with all the 
 
116 
 
 rest, telling them the fortieth mess outdid them all; no one 
 could form an idea by what means this gloss had been 
 obtained ; these very pots were used every morning for break- 
 fast, and in about a week every one in the mess complained of 
 sore gums, and loose teeth, and upon all the effects were 
 visible, on some it almost produced salivation ; it is needless to 
 add the mercury caused it. But to resume ; dinner ended, deck 
 swept up, no other duty is begun ; nothing stirs till after four 
 o'clock in the afternoon ; the seamen walk about, or lay on 
 the decks, some telling tales, some platting grass to make hats, 
 some few read or write ; it was then as difficult to find a 
 seaman who could read or write, as it is now to find one 
 under thirty who cannot do either. A few minutes after four, 
 the confusion again begins, " in lower deck guns, out yard 
 ropes, reeve gantlines, and closelines", ready for scrubbing 
 hammocks in the morning. At five, pipe to supper ; again the 
 grog is piped, and Jack and his mate enjoy themselves over 
 their plush ; but it not unfrequently happens that in the very 
 middle of their enjoyment, the drum beats to quarters, where 
 every man at his gun, and in his proper number, when mus- 
 tered answers his number and duty. The guns are examined, 
 to see all their tackling is secure, and in good order ; the men 
 are also examined to see that they are perfectly sober. To a 
 person not acquainted with the navy, it would almost appear 
 incredible, the various schemes the drunkard makes use of to 
 obtain an extra quantity of grog ; no trouble is too great, no 
 power to resist temptation ; men who would shrink from a 
 dishonest action, and who might be trusted with sums of 
 money, will steal a bottle of rum. 
 
 I well recollect a circumstance that occurred some years 
 ago in a discovery ship I was in, which I hope may amuse the 
 reader, it is one among many that have passed under my eye. 
 
 A man name P , officiated as barber for the seamen, 
 
 and hair dresser to the officers, and among them the Purser, 
 and who besides was an incorrigible drunkard. Having that 
 
117 
 
 morning cut the Purser's hair, without as he said having seen 
 his bottle, went to him a little before seven bells one forenoon 
 
 and said " Mr. M , will you let your steward give me a 
 
 bottle of vinegar for I am very fond of it ?" The Purser felt 
 surprised at such a request, expecting it would be rum in lieu, 
 but freely consented, and walked down the after ladder into 
 the gun-room. Just afterwards the spirits for dinner were got 
 
 up, and P , watching the steward said, "N , the 
 
 Purser told me to come to you for a bottle of rum," ef I will not 
 
 give it you," said N , " oh, very well," said P , " I will 
 
 go to Mr. M . Mr. M was sitting at the gun-room 
 
 table, the gun room sky -light was but little abaft the place 
 
 where the spirits were got up ; P called down the sky-light, 
 
 " Mr. M , N says he wont give it to me" (without 
 
 naming the article he wanted,) the Purser supposing it to be 
 
 vinegar, sung out lustily, ee why the d 1 dont you give it to 
 
 him N , is my order of no use ?" the poor steward seeing 
 
 his master very angry gave the man the bottle of rum. Within 
 
 one hour of his getting the rum, P was in a horrid state 
 
 of intoxication, rolling about the decks ; as his grog had been 
 stopped, enquiries were made how he got drunk ; for sometime 
 no clue could be found, at last some one said that the Purser's 
 steward had given him the spirits. An immediate order was 
 given for the steward to appear on the quarter deck, and when 
 there to state why he had given spirits away, knowing it to 
 be against orders; the poor fellow alarmed to the highest 
 degree, fearful of involving the Purser in a scrape, took some 
 time to consider what to say, at last pressed for an answer, 
 
 said that Mr. , the Purser had given the order for the man 
 
 to have the spirits ; the Purser sent for, denied ever having 
 given such an order ; the poor steward was ordered in irons, 
 but the Captain coming up, investigated the affair, and with 
 his penetrating eye soon came to the truth. The steward was 
 released, and the affair ended in a laugh. 
 
 Another time I recollect the Captain of the R coming 
 
118 
 
 on board in his gig, about eight at night ; on coming up the 
 side he sent for the master at arms, and on his appearance 
 told him that he had seen one of the boat's crew hide some 
 bladders of spirits in a bag under the head sheets, and desired 
 the master at arms to go and make the seizure ; in the mean time 
 one of the men, who was the owner of the spirits, went up into 
 the main-top and sent a fishing line down with a strong hook ; 
 one of those in the boat just then hooked the bag on, and at 
 the moment the master at arms was stretching out his hand 
 to clasp his prize, the man aloft pulled up, the bag vanished 
 from his view, leaving him in the greatest astonishment at 
 the manner in which his prize had disappeared. Alarmed at 
 his failure, the master at arms went on deck and reported to 
 the officer the whole affair, saying the rum had been spirited 
 away, he knew not how. I could relate many more instances, 
 but one more will be sufficient to shew the reader the many 
 schemes practised by seamen to obtain spirits Some years 
 ago, while taking in four months' provisions, among the casks 
 were some small barrels of spirits sent on board for the con- 
 venience of stowage, as the main-deck was well filled with 
 casks ; in order to make a passage, some of the small ones 
 were rolled upon the fore gratings. Some mischievous fellow 
 got a hint of it, went to the cooper, borrowed his centre-bit, 
 and, assisted by others, bored a hole into the bottom of the 
 cask through the grating, one of the others holding a bucket 
 under, thus bucket after bucket disappeared ; tow r ards even- 
 ing half the ship's company were drunk, and a quantity 
 of rum at all parts of the lower-deck ; no one could tell whence 
 it came, but the next day when the casks were struck down, 
 this one was found empty. Several men were charged with the 
 crime, but as they kept their own counsel, there was no proof 
 against them ; they were not punished, for our commanding 
 officer never punished without the most satisfactory proof, 
 so that they escaped; and thus the Purser lost fifteen- gallons 
 of rum. 
 
119 
 
 At eight at night, the boatswain and his mates piped down, 
 and within a very few minutes every man is in his hammock. 
 In most ships chatting is allowed, or at least not noticed till 
 one bell,, (half-past eight) but when the jawing bell is over, 
 nothing is heard or seen through the night, save the half 
 hourly visits of the master at arms, and the regular "alTs 
 well," of the centinel as he walks his lonely post ; and thus 
 ends the sabbath -in a ship of war, and closes my chapter. 
 
120 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 ONE WEEK IN A SMART SHIP DESCRIBED. 
 
 MONDAY morning four o'clock; again the shrill whistle re- 
 sounds to awaken the sleepers and cut short their dreams ; 
 hands scrub hammocks and wash cloths. A certain portion 
 of fresh water is served out to each man, as the vessel can 
 afford it, but the most I ever knew served out is half a gallon 
 per man, and that is deemed sufficient. From the time of 
 beginning to wash to the time of leaving off, is one hour and a 
 half, at which time every man must have finished, and although 
 to a landsman, who has never sailed for education, the time 
 seems short, still to the more experienced seaman, it is full 
 sufficient for all the purposes he has to accomplish. As soon as 
 the cloths are hung up, the decks washed down, hammocks 
 piped up, and the same routine goes on as on Sunday, except 
 that divisions are earlier. After the muster is ended the drum 
 beats to quarters, one division, of which there are usually five, 
 goes to great gun exercise until six bells (eleven o'clock) ; 
 another division to cutlass or musket, the rest of the ship's 
 company are employed as may be required, at making rope, 
 &c., or if the ship is all complete they walk or sleep, or spin 
 tough yarns as may please them. After dinner another portion 
 of the crew go to drill at cutlass or musket, and that ends the 
 drills for the day ; one day may be taken as a type of years. 
 Tuesday in most well regulated ships is appropriated to boat 
 exercise ; every boat equipt in fighting order, the larger ones 
 
121 
 
 such as launches, barges, and pinnaces, with their guns and 
 carronades, while the smaller ones are armed with muskets, 
 cutlasses, and pistols ; and when there are many ships, each 
 sending from seven to nine boats, with the flag ship's launch 
 as commodore, they certainly form a pretty musquito fleet ; 
 so at least I fancied some years since, while steering the launch 
 
 of the beautiful A , in the Tagus, and leading the van 
 
 of a numerous squadron, I fancied myself a personage of some 
 importance. * 
 
 Wednesday is for sail exercise, at least so it was in the 
 
 A , and she was allowed by all who were competent judges, 
 
 to be the best regulated ship in commission since the peace. 
 The whole of the forenoon is spent in reefing, furling, and 
 shifting the whole suit of sails, and perhaps the topsail yards 
 may be sent down and up again once or twice. Thursday, 
 making and mending clothes occupies the whole day, when Jack 
 has a fair opportunity of repairing damages in his kitt, and 
 preparing for any future examination ; also of examining his 
 ditty bag, and having a view of all the little presents he had 
 from his friends or sweetheart ere he left home, and reading 
 over the love letters of Poll and Sue. Friday, is general quar- 
 ters, when every gun in the ship is manned and exercised ; 
 sometimes fired with shot at a target, at others with blank 
 cartridge, for which a fair proportion of powder is allowed 
 half-yearly. Saturday, is a general cleaning day below, white- 
 washing the holds, cockpits, &c., and whatever slight repairs 
 the rigging may require is done on that day ; evening comes, 
 " sling clean hammocks/' and thus ends the week, which in a 
 ship of war may be taken as a sample of three or, more years ; 
 a certain sameness pervades the whole, little or no diversity, 
 except when the ship removes from one part to the other. 
 Strict discipline among such a large body of men, where the 
 very extremes of good and evil may be found, is very necessary ; 
 and though it is at times carried to undue lengths, still for 
 my part, I never in any one instance had cause of complaint. 
 
 i 
 
122 
 
 Sobriety and a desire to fulfil the duties imposed on me car- 
 ried me through with comfort, and I look back with a degree 
 of pleasure to the day on which I first stood on a ship of 
 war's books. 
 
 In the middle of July, 1820, the R anchored at Spit- 
 head ; August 10th, two months' advance was paid, and the 
 next day the blue at the fore waved over our head ; 13th sailed 
 for Gibraltar and thence to Malta ; after a very fine passage 
 the anchor was let go in the Bay of Gibraltar, but the fever 
 raging there, the Admiral ordered the quarantine flag to be 
 hoisted at the mast-head, so that no communication could take 
 place with the shore ; our stay was short. Our progress up 
 the Straights was slow, for we had frequent calms ; it was not 
 until the 14th September that the anchor was let go in the 
 grand harbour of La Valletta. On the 20th, forty-eight 
 hours leave was given to a quarter watch, or nearly one-fourth 
 of the ship's company. My name having been inserted in 
 the liberty list, I gladly availed myself of it to take a ramble 
 over an island I had never before seen, although I had heard 
 so much of it ; Malta a few years back only a dirty barren 
 rock, by the benefit of English commerce and English govern- 
 ment, is become England in miniature. By a wise decree of 
 the supreme court passed in 1816, no vessel of a certain ton- 
 nage coming from Sicily is allowed to enter inwards without 
 bringing a certain proportion of earth as a part of her cargo or 
 ballast. In consequence of this order, what a few years ago was 
 a barren rock, is now a flourishing garden, where vegetables, 
 fruits, &c. grow in such abundance, as to repay the expences 
 incurred in raising the soil ; a walk in the country at any time 
 except in August and September, (when the heat is trouble- 
 some) is delightful. While I was on shore I visited the church 
 of St. John, which is supposed to be or at least was then, one of 
 the richest, and possessed of more relics than any other in the 
 island. As I entered the church a Maltese presented himself, 
 asking if I wanted to see the church, and offering to shew me 
 
123 
 
 round the place ; although I did not like the appearance of 
 the man, I was obliged to accept his offer for want of a better, 
 and began by going to the underground parts of the building, 
 and had proceeded but a short distance when I met one of 
 the monks, a fine sleek fat looking middle aged man, whose 
 appearance might certainly denote praying, but not a vestige 
 of fasting ; I touched my hat to him, and said " good morning 
 sir," in Italian ; he very politely returned my salutation, ob- 
 serving, ee ah, you speak Italian ;" conversation began, and in a 
 few minutes we were as old acquaintance. My former conduc- 
 tor was superseded and having given him an eightpenny piece, 
 I commenced my visit with my new acquaintance, and is it 
 not so through the whole of our life, the most shining bauble 
 carries the day. Had any person of an inferior rank to my first 
 conductor presented himself to me, however well he might 
 have addressed me, however great his abilities, I much question 
 whether he would have had my company ; it certainly is a 
 serious thing to reflect upon the effect of rank, it gives a child, 
 newly born, a degree of consideration and respect, which half 
 a century of labour and virtue cannot attain ; but to go on, 
 the friendly monk led me through all the parts of the beautiful 
 consecrated pile, explained to me its riches, silver gates, &c., 
 and would no doubt have succeeded in inspiring me with a 
 great opinion of the Church of St. John, had he not pointed 
 to St. John's head in a charger, in a glass case inside of the 
 railings which he affirmed was the very head which had been 
 taken from the shoulders of St. John. Whether the monk, 
 from my being a seaman, thought that I would believe any- 
 thing he told me, or whether he wished to try how far my 
 credulity would go, I know not, but looking very hard at him, 
 I said te ah my friend, you must tell that to the marines for 
 sailors cannot believe it." He partly understood what I said 
 for he led me up, and thence into the refectory where a num- 
 ber of monks like himself, fat, and in good order, were sitting 
 round a table. I was requested to set down, and for an hour 
 
 i2 
 
124 
 
 enjoyed myself well ; wine, fruit, and cakes, were given me, 
 and I left them thankful for their kindness. I have frequently 
 visited the church since, and ever been treated with kindness 
 and respect ; in the evening I returned to the ship. 
 
 Sometime afterwards I was again on shore; to visit the 
 shore frequently was highly injurious to my pocket, but as it 
 was the time when the trial of Delano, the master of the 
 pirate vessel William, and his crew, was to take place in the 
 Admiralty Court of the island, I was glad of an opportunity 
 of witnessing a scene which would be at once awful and im- 
 posing. Happily the keeper of the court was a brother mason, 
 and of course a friend, and by his means I not only got ad- 
 mission, but such a situation as would enable me to hear 
 all the proceedings of the court, as well as see the countenan- 
 ces of the criminals. Delano, the captain of the pirate, was 
 ghastly pale, an apparent consciousness of the awful situation 
 in which he stood, seemed to pervade his whole frame ; his 
 look bespoke fear but not repentance, and thus it seemed with 
 one or two others. His chief mate, I think his name was 
 Thompson, stared wildly round him as if unconscious and un- 
 heeding passing events ; but the cook who I understood was 
 a pensioner from the navy, was, without exception, the most 
 hardened creature I had ever seen ; not a shadow of dread 
 seemed to cross his countenance. It came out upon the trial, 
 that he stood over the carpenter with a loaded pistol while he 
 bored the holes in the Helenas bottom, and vowed that if he 
 in any way delayed or neglected his orders, that moment 
 should be his last. 
 
 The evidence against the prisoners was conclusive, each 
 endeavouring to criminate the other, and all to place the guilt 
 upon the captain ; not a shadow of doubt could remain on the 
 minds of the jury. It was the second time Delano had stood 
 at the bar of justice, charged with a crime at which the very 
 soul of civilized man ought to revolt ; and when the jury after 
 a short deliberation returned a verdict of guilty, for a moment 
 
125 
 
 all was silent. In this great multitude, not a murmur was to 
 be heard, expectation held its breath ; awful to those criminals 
 who could feel must have been that moment ; at length the 
 
 judge Wright, Esq. rose up, and in a speech which 
 
 though the words may be forgotten, the manner never can, 
 addressed the prisoners at the bar, and holding before them 
 the dreadful enormity of their offence, bade them consider 
 their lives forfeited to the broken laws of their country. They 
 ought now to devote the short period allowed them in preparing 
 for that awful change they had to undergo ; and then addressing 
 the cook, who was gazing around him unconscious of passing 
 events, the judge thus spoke, " and to you prisoner at the bar 
 who in the moment that you were assuring the sufferers of 
 safety and lulling them into fatal security, had fully planned 
 their destruction," I will' not aggravate the sufferings which 
 must at this moment rend your very heart, by calling you 
 by name, but as a last hope, none on earth remains. Let 
 me implore you to seek at the foot of the cross of a cru- 
 *cified redeemer, that forgiveness man has not in his power to 
 extend to you. It now remains with me to pass the awful 
 sentence of the law which is that " all and each of you return 
 to the prison at Fort St. Elmo, and from thence to the vessel 
 called the William, and at the yard-arms hang till you are 
 dead ; there hung in gibbets at such a place as shall be most 
 exposed to public view, and may God have mercy on your 
 souls." The carpenter by whose means the unfortunate 
 crew of the Helen had been saved, he first acquitted, and then 
 advised him to be very careful as to what vessels he entered 
 for the future : the prisoners were then removed from the bar 
 and taken to the prison named in their sentence. Only four 
 days after the William was hauled out into the grand harbour 
 of La Valletta ; gangways were erected on both sides, from 
 the quarter-deck to that part, just under the fore yard, at 
 which place a platform of the proper dimensions was built to 
 allow three prisoners to stand at their ease. Every part of 
 
126 
 
 the vessel was painted black, except on each bow where 
 William was marked in large white letters ; every thing about 
 her indicated mourning, emblems of the fatal tragedy about 
 to be acted on board. 
 
 On the appointed morning the signal for all boats to attend 
 punishment, flew at the flag ship's mast head, nothing was 
 talked of but the approaching execution ; troops under arms 
 lined the bay as far as they could be placed. The unfortunate 
 William was surrounded by the boats of the squadron. At 9, 
 the prisoners were brought off under the charge of the pro- 
 vost marshal, surrounded by armed boats. The master and 
 the cook seemed perfectly indifferent to the awful solemnity 
 of the scene. Delano, who had to all appearance been a very 
 good looking young man, was now haggard and grief-worn, 
 his eye resting with a vacant stare on all around ; their arms 
 pinioned tightly behind them, allowed them no power of 
 assisting themselves in ascending the vessel's side, which had 
 been made easy expressly on purpose. It was found needful 
 to support all in going up, and two of them required support 
 to the last moment. The mate and the cook walked along the 
 gangway with a firm step. However slight the slip either had 
 made, whatever alteration of countenance had taken place, I 
 must have seen, for I was so placed that nothing could escape 
 me ; all were attended by a clergyman, who was either reading 
 or praying all the time. A carronade on each side had been 
 placed as near as possible under the platform on which the 
 prisoners stood ; a trigger-line from both locks was made to 
 end in one, so that one pull might set both guns off, and the 
 explosion take place at the same time. Three ropes were rove 
 on each side of the fore yard, and the noose well overhauled so 
 as to hang just clear of the prisoners; it took the provost marshal 
 sometime before he could place all the ropes to his satisfaction 
 round their necks, a part of the business he seemed particu- 
 larly careful in performing. 
 
 The whips were led along the decks of the William, and 
 
127 
 
 manned by a certain party of men picked from each ship, 
 each of whom seemed conscious, and grieved at the painful 
 duty he had to execute ; it was nearly 10, A. M. before all 
 was ready. Just as the clocks of the different public buildings 
 struck ten, and the ships' bells four, all was hushed in a 
 moment ; I believe if I may judge from myself, every heart 
 beat heavily, the guns went off, and so sudden and exact was 
 the explosion, that it seemed as if one gun alone had exploded, 
 and but for the two volumes of white smoke seen rising per- 
 pendicularly from the different muzzles, many persons would 
 have said that only one gun had gone off; but as the smoke 
 cleared away, the bodies of the unfortunate men were seen 
 dangling in the air, and their spirits already winging their 
 way to the awful bar of an offended God. Some events^occur 
 during the life of man which it is impossible to forget, and 
 surely this is one of these painful moments, shewing the 
 depravity of the mind of man when left to take its course 
 without a check. Delano was said to be a member of a 
 highly respectable family ; an amiable wife, and a widowed 
 parent were left to bemoan his fate, and end their lives in 
 grief, and shame. Dreadful must have been their feelings 
 when the fatal intelligence reached Liverpool ; the late pirate 
 had for several years traded to Malta, was not only well known, 
 but highly respected ; his credit so good that when after the 
 plunder of the Helen, he sold 2000 scudi worth of her 
 plunder, he was not even requested to show the cockets, or 
 other necessary papers. 
 
 The first thing which caused a suspicion to rest on the 
 William, was that while both vessels were laying bow to 
 bow, the crew of the Helen secured in her forecastle, and the 
 booby hatch barred down, in which there was a very small 
 scuttle, not more than five inches square, which being open, 
 the William having both topsails on the cap, and through 
 this small scuttle, the crew of the Helen could see on the 
 starboard clew of the fore-topsail, " Gwillam, sail maker, Liver* 
 
128 
 
 pool," and also that in her top-sail there was a band from leech 
 to leech below the belly band, a thing not common ; to these 
 two circumstances may chiefly be attributed the capture of 
 the William. As the two vessels belonged to the same port, 
 little suspicion would otherwise have been entertained. 
 
 Late in October, the Raven, Mr. F commanding,, came 
 
 from Naples, with intelligence that a revolution had taken 
 place in Naples, where the son was endeavouring to dethrone 
 his father. Immediate preparations were made for sea. 
 
 November 1st, the R 80, R 46, and two or three 
 
 smaller vessels, besides tenders, were on their way to Naples, 
 where the anchor was let go on the 7th ; although it was a bad 
 time of year, and Naples Bay from the very heavy swell that sets 
 into it, very unsafe, the ships were ordered to remain at an 
 anchor in the bay ; here we found also several foreign ships, 
 French, Austrian, and Spanish, each ready to protect the pro- 
 perty, and persons of their respective merchants. Mount 
 Vesuvius situated on the opposite side of the bay to the city 
 of Naples, was then burning with awful fury, and the frequent 
 eruptions which now took place, made it dangerous for those 
 living around its base to remain there. In November, the 
 greatest eruption that had occurred for above forty years, took 
 place, the strength of it was in the dead hour of the night ; 
 to describe the awful grandeur of the scene, is impossible, it 
 is almost beyond the bounds of fancy ; at intervals the bay was 
 completely illuminated, and the shipping, the city, and its 
 environs reflected of a ghastly hue ; stones of a terrible weight 
 were hurled out of the crater to an immense distance. I saw 
 one some days after, which was sent as a present to Captain 
 
 , it had been picked up in the very centre of the city, 
 
 not less than twelve miles distant, was of a very hard blue 
 kind of stone, and weighed rather above twenty-six pounds. 
 For several days slight eruptions took place, and for two days the 
 bay was as it were covered with a dense fog, from a thick shower 
 of light grey ashes, which settling on the decks, and rigging, 
 
129 
 
 obliged us to beat the rigging, and the sails every four hours, 
 when several bushels were swept off the decks ; quantities were 
 taken up as specimens. About ten days after the eruption, 
 the Admiral's steward, and the chief mate of a ship called the 
 Frances Freeling were going up the hill, and from my speaking 
 Italian offered to bear any expense if I would 'go with them. 
 I gladly accepted the oifer that gave me a chance of seeing a 
 place so calculated to gratify curiosity ; to see the sun rise on 
 the top of Vesuvius, is one of the first objects in going there, 
 consequently at 6, P. M. we landed at the foot, and as near the 
 road as possible, among all the beautiful palaces, and country 
 seats of the nobility and gentry of Naples. It was so soon 
 after the eruption, that it was found very difficult to obtain 
 guides ; mules they would freely let us have, but as to risking 
 themselves up the hill, was a matter that required much con- 
 sideration ; it was at length settled, but before we had got 
 on our road upward, the eight o'clock gun had fired from the 
 Admiral's ship. For the first four miles, the road was good, 
 running in a circuitous direction, through groves of fruit trees, 
 and limes. 
 
 A little before midnight we reached the house of the Hermit, 
 who coming to his door to bid us welcome, appeared very 
 unlike the idea I had formed of a Hermit; I expected to 
 have seen a thin ghastly recluse, but before me stood a fat 
 sleek monk of about forty, not a wrinkle was to be seen in any 
 part of him. His first care was to lay before me an immense 
 book, in which, he said, it was customary for all who went up 
 to insert their names, quality, and occupation ; of course we 
 could not refuse his request, and each of my companions 
 having signed his name, and added gent, as occupation, I 
 followed the general run and did the same, leaving it no 
 doubt for our successors, should they know us, to laugh at ; but 
 thus it runs through life, most men wish to rise even for a 
 short period. Three o'clock was full soon enough to proceed 
 on our journey, a stone couch supplied the seat, a stone table 
 
130 
 
 stood before us ; the Priest provided us with a passable supper 
 of eggs and bacon, and a bottle of wretched wine. During 
 our meal the Padre entertained us with an account of his con- 
 vent, and acknowledged in answer to my question that the 
 chief motive of his remaining here., was not only to aid and 
 direct travellers upward, but to support and increase the 
 funds of his convent, and his profits formed no inconsiderable 
 part of its revenue ; and of that he soon gave us a most con- 
 vincing proof, by making us pay four times the Naples price, 
 both for wine and refreshments, and with a face of sanctity 
 begged a donation for his convent, which under the title of 
 (jent we could not refuse to give ; a just punishment for people 
 soaring above their level ; had we just gone as we were the 
 donation would have been saved; several times I have been 
 bitten that way, but experience has taught me better now. 
 
 At 3, A. M.,we again proceeded upwards ; a tiresome ride of 
 two hours placed us at that part of the hill where all vegetation 
 ceases. Frequent cracks in the earth from which the boiling 
 lava issued, showed that the downward path was safer than 
 the upward. At 6, A. M., we got as high as the guides would 
 ,go, and on my proceeding farther upward, they declared I 
 was mad. As we sat on the top of the hill daylight broke ; 
 the horizon clear and bright gave us a beautiful view of the 
 surrounding scenery, but when the sun rose and opened to 
 our eyes all the majestic beauty that surrounded us, no pen 
 can describe the effect upon the mind. Seated on the very 
 summit of a burning mountain, which in one moment might 
 throw up a river of lava and consume us to a cinder, was 
 calculated to impress the mind with awe and fear. Before us 
 the prospect was really pleasing, the bay with its numerous 
 ships, the City of Naples with its grand buildings, the fortress 
 of St. Elmo, the stately palace, the consecrated church, and 
 the fisherman's cottage, from such a height and distance all 
 tended to diversify the scene and render it at once pleasing 
 and grand. The place on which we then stood was to all 
 
131 
 
 appearance a bed of cinders resembling as nearly as possible 
 the rough cinders which are usually seen about the shop of a 
 blacksmith, and which they name clinkers, and here and there 
 crevices from which the lava bubbled. I had several English 
 penny pieces in my pocket and a little stick in my hand, this 
 stick I split at one end, and having inserted one of my penny 
 pieces into the split end of the stick, dipped it immediately into 
 the boiling lava ; by pulling it out for a moment to cool, and 
 again dipping it in, it grew in bulk to the size of a Turkey's egg, 
 leaving that part of the penny which had been in the stick, per- 
 fectly clean, and free from lava ; I got several of these pennies, 
 and considering from whence I took them, they are valuable 
 specimens. Our guides were highly exasperated at our long 
 delay in this dangerous region, and frequently threatened to 
 proceed downward without us, but as we had not paid them, 
 and I declared if they went, I would not give them a half- 
 penny, they were obliged to remain, much against their will. 
 About 8, A. M. we commenced retracing our road downwards ; 
 the rugged sides of the mountain were far more troublesome 
 to descend, than to come up, for the slightest slip sent us 
 sprawling, which from the roughness of the stones, was atten- 
 ded with bruises, and sometimes cuts. Arrived at the hermit's 
 we found that he had expected us for sometime, the breakfast 
 which we had ordered, was quite ready, and for which our 
 stomachs were in excellent order ; our stone couch, for a seat 
 was then a perfect luxury ; a short rest after breakfast, and we 
 bad him farewell. To me he gave his benedicite, supposing 
 as he said from my tongue, that I was a bon Christiana. 
 
 On settling with guides for mules &c., we found that all 
 our expences amounted to upwards of eleven dollars, but the 
 gratification fully made up for the expense ; indeed to me it 
 would have been nothing, if I would have allowed it, but even 
 in one of my low rank, I could not bear the idea of being under 
 an obligation to any one ; it was laying a weight on my mind I 
 could but ill support, A short period before that the Neapolitan 
 
132 
 
 government employed a great number of men in digging through 
 the ashes and lava, in order to clear the ancient city of Pompeii 
 and Herculaneum ; nearly a whole street was already cleared 
 at one part to the immense depth of sixty-eight feet. Having 
 the day before us, we determined to have a view of as much 
 as possible of the city ; arrived there we soon found a person, 
 who, acquainted with the place, was willing to shew us the 
 various parts that had been cleared. The first place he took us 
 to was a very large building, which he said had been a theatre, 
 and which, upon examination, I supposed to be correct ; the 
 roof of the building had been taken off in order to clear 
 the inside ; the walls were perfectly whole, of a dirty brick 
 colour, until our guide sprinkled some clear water over them, 
 when they assumed quite a different hue and looked as if lately 
 done ; one in particular represented several of the Heathen 
 deities, among whom Mercury was standing, easily known by 
 the wings on his feet, and looked very handsome, although so 
 ancient. The floor was marble, and a sort of red cement laid 
 out in very small diamond cut pieces about one and a half inch 
 long, and three eighths thick ; in some parts the floor had 
 been broken, but it had to all appearance been done by the 
 curious, for the cement seemed to retain its full strength. On 
 taking a piece of it in my hand and striking it with a hammer^ 
 the cement and marble broke at once ; curiosities abounded 
 where everything was a curiosity, but such a strict look out was 
 kept that nothing should be carried away that it was difficult to 
 get any thing, however small; and although we visited 
 every part that was cleared, and delayed the time as much 
 as possible, the only thing I could procure besides pockets 
 full of stone, was a rough earthen cup and saucer, much re- 
 sembling the earthenware flower pots in England ; and for 
 which I was obliged to pay one Jollar. 1 was heartily tired 
 of my cruise, and truly thankful when late at night I got up 
 
 the R 3 s side almost bare-foot, for the clinker soil of Mount 
 
 Vesuvius and its excessive heat had burnt the leather to pieces. 
 
133 
 
 At this time two violent parties occupied the City of 
 Naples ; one of them under a distinguished leader, General 
 Pape, who was for the dethronement of the King, and placing 
 his son on the throne ; these were by far the strongest, and 
 called the Carbonari ; the other party were called Royalists, 
 who were not numerous, but they had the foreign ships as 
 auxiliaries, which made them equal to the other. Each party 
 however practised every means of insulting and injuring the 
 other, so that it made it almost dangerous for a stranger to 
 walk the streets after dark. Murders, robberies, and every 
 crime was perpetrated by both parties. 
 
 There was then an eighty gun ship, called the Capre, lying 
 in the Mole, laden with marine stores of all kinds, which had 
 been removed from the dock-yards for the better security 
 thereof. Sometime in January, 1821, in the middle of a very 
 dark night, this ship was discovered to be on fire, and such was 
 the nature of her lading, that in a few moments the flames rose 
 to a terrible height; report was immediately made to the 
 commanding officer, who ordered the boatswain and his mates 
 to pipe all hands ; by some mistake the pipe went " all hands 
 ahoy, the ship's on fire." Every thing seemed to confirm the 
 awful truth, the ports had only been sloped for the free cir- 
 culation of air, and the light from the flames was so powerful 
 that it would have been easy to see a pin on any part of the 
 decks ; it cannot therefore be wondered at that such a dreadful 
 pipe to men, just awakened out of a deep sleep, should have 
 been alarming : dismayed at the sight around them, and expec- 
 ting every moment the ship to blow up, several overcome 
 by terror, threw themselves through the ports, but were saved ; 
 the hatchways became choked, and several who had got partly 
 up were forced down again, and numbers were more or less in- 
 jured ; two arms were broken ; ,for my part one moment's 
 consideration convinced me that it could not be our ship, so 
 that myself and some few others remained quiet. After some 
 minutes had passed, the powerful voice of Lieut. S was 
 
134 
 
 heard roaring out " this ship's not on fire, it is not us." His 
 well known voice, the confidence of the men in his abilities 
 acted like a charm ; (i all hands out boats" gave Jack em- 
 ployment, and enabled him to forget his fears. Nine of our 
 boats were soon on their way to the blazing wreck, but all 
 the boats in His Majesty's navy, had they been there, could 
 have been of no use ; the only object was to remove those 
 vessels that were in danger from the fire to a greater distance. 
 Several vessels were removed, and among them a fine Neapo- 
 litan frigate, called the Minerva ; it was ascertained that the 
 ship had no powder on board, so that no apprehensions of her 
 blowing up were felt ; she was left to burn down to the water's 
 edge and sink, but it was on the third day before she went 
 down. The frigate we had towed away having got into the 
 hands of the Carbonari was suffered to drift on shore and 
 beat to pieces. 
 
 For some time the King had been considered by his friends 
 in very great danger ; he might be called a close prisoner in his 
 palace ; every means had been tried by the English to get 
 him out, but in vain, until the middle of February, when an 
 officer of the palace by some means discovered an underground 
 passage from the palace to a creek in the rocks at the water's 
 edge. It was immediately communicated to the Prime Minister, 
 who conveyed the pleasing intelligence to the British Admiral. 
 A Neapolitan standard was sent off to each of the English, 
 French, Austrian, and Spanish ships, to be hoisted the moment 
 our barge shoved off. 
 
 At 2, P.M., as per appointment, our barge was in attendance 
 at the spot; a chosen few who had got the news of the approach 
 of the King, were there in readiness to kiss his hand as he 
 embarked. As soon as the barge shoved off and got about 
 one cable's length from the shore, the flag which had before 
 been flying at her bow was hauled down, and the Neapolitan 
 Standard flew in its stead. In one moment Naples Bay was 
 in a blaze, royal salutes were fired from all the numerous ships 
 
135 
 
 round. The first intimation the good citizens of Naples had of 
 the escape of their King, was the firing of guns and seeing their 
 standard flying at the mast head of the different ships of war ; 
 then when the people on shore found their royal prisoner had 
 slipped through their fingers, they were almost distracted. In 
 the mean time our barge having His Majesty of the two Sicilies 
 on board, went alongside the Vengeur of 74 guns, where His 
 Majesty was received with manned yards and another royal 
 salute. Very soon after the Vengeur got under weigh to carry 
 the King to the Island of Sicily, she was accompanied by the 
 Revolutionnaire ; both ships had a fine breeze at first sailing, 
 but in the first watch, the wind died away to a perfect calm, 
 leaving a heavy swell after it. Both ships being close together 
 in a short time fell on board each other, the Revolutionnaire 
 carried away the Vengeur's figure head and part of her cut- 
 water, and sustained some damage herself. Povidentially a 
 light air at S. W. sprung up, which enabled both vessels to 
 run in again and at 2 A. M. both had re-anchored in the bay. 
 
 Very early in March, 1821, a numerous army of Austrian 
 Troops under the command of General Fremont, marched into 
 Naples, and took possession of the ports and batteries ; among 
 those attached to the army, was the young Napoleon Buona- 
 part, then only a corporal. The day after their entry the 
 General with the young Napoleon, and his tutor Count Val- 
 
 moden, visited the ship ; Lieut. S having been promoted, 
 
 Lieut. A had become commanding officer. As he spoke 
 
 neither French or Italian, and knowing that I did, he sent 
 for me to go round the ship and explain to the visitors 
 the different parts of her ; during the tour I had sufficient 
 employment to answer the different questions of all, but 
 most of the young Napoleon. Every part of the ship was 
 examined with minute attention. As they stood in the gun- 
 ner's store-room I explained to them that there was then 
 under their feet, several hundred barrels of gun-powder. I 
 observed the Count give an involuntary shudder, while the 
 
136 
 
 others stood unmoved. The General desired me to ask 
 
 Lieut. A , if they could be permitted to see the magazine, 
 
 which of course was politely refused, being contrary to the 
 regulations of the Admiralty; the party then returned on 
 deck ; when there the General taking out his purse, presented 
 me with three four dollar pieces, which however wanted, 
 or pleasing to my view, I was under the painful necessity 
 of refusing, for in the ship's orders, a severe punishment 
 was promised to any one found taking money from visitors ; 
 had the money been quietly put into my hand below, I fear 
 the temptation would have been too great for me to resist. 
 For several days the ship was crowded with visitors, I was 
 constantly going, and seldom had time to eat my meals till 
 late, when the ship was free from strangers ; it is but just to 
 say, that no party went round without offering money ; all 
 were highly gratified, and liberal, and when a good opportu- 
 nity offered, where is the man who could refuse money ? So 
 it was with me ; I had none, I wanted some, and when put in 
 my hand, if no observer was near, I put it in my pocket ; if 
 any officer appeared, why, I made a virtue of necessity, and 
 returned it. 
 
 A return to Malta having been settled on, preparations were 
 
 made for sea. During the year 1821, the R , visited most 
 
 of the ports and bays in the island of Sicily, and last of all 
 Messina ; it was the place where my poor father breathed his 
 last, and where his remains were mouldering in the dust. 
 Wishing to see if there was any mark by which I could distin- 
 guish the spot, and pay the tribute of a tear, to the memory of 
 a respected parent, I asked, and obtained leave to go on shore ; 
 the ship being kept under sailing orders, no one else was per- 
 mitted to land, and on that account my liberty was more 
 valuable. 
 
137 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 I landed about ten in the forenoon, at the town, and having 
 taken a boat, went as near the place as I could, which had been 
 pointed out to me as the burying place of those who had died 
 of the fever at that time. I saw a great number of mounds 
 indicating the place where the graves were, but not one boasted 
 the slightest distinguishing mark, all were alike ; I stood on 
 the mouldering dead, my eyes wandering over the place in 
 search of something that might point out what I sought for, 
 but in vain; at last I observed a genteel looking man at some 
 distance, whom I took to be a merchant ; as we neared each 
 other, I addressed him, observing that it was strange that 
 no stone recorded the names of those who reposed below ; 
 but the gentleman told me that to place a stone there would 
 be useless, for it would be immediately removed by order of 
 the Priests, who deeming the English heretics, would not 
 allow them even the smallest memento. I left the spot with 
 sincere regret, and went to the town of Messina, took a walk 
 over some of the principal streets, and found it as dirty a 
 place as can well be described ; the streets full of all kinds of 
 filth, were of themselves fully sufficient to create disorders. 
 Towards evening I returned to the ship, tired and disap- 
 pointed ; next day we sailed. 
 
 Early in August, the ship anchored in Biga Bay, famous 
 as having been the residence of the tyrant Nero. The temple 
 formerly dedicated to Venus was then still standing, but 
 
138 
 
 terribly delapidated, the walls mouldering fast to decay. That 
 of Diana was in a far better state of preservation ; built of 
 marble and cement, a proof of the beauty and strength of 
 ancient architecture, it had withstood the shock of ages ; I 
 took several pieces of the marble and cement as specimens, 
 but all had to be paid for, to an old man, who it appeared got 
 his living by shewing the ruins, taking care to remind the visitor 
 of his poverty. On the left of the entrance lies the town of 
 Pizzuli, formerly a middle sized town, but now dwindled into 
 a small village of mean appearance ; from Pizzuli to Naples 
 is an underground passage, through which a kind of hackney 
 coaches run to Naples, and carry visitors to the city, but as 
 this passage is often the scene of murders and robberies, it 
 is considered dangerous at all times. During the winter the 
 whole city of Naples, and indeed the whole kingdom remained 
 in charge of the Austrians, but in the spring the son finding 
 his hopes of the crow r n blasted, gave it up, and absconded, 
 and left the field clear to his father to return to his palace, 
 of which he very soon availed himself. An act of grace pub- 
 lishing offers of pardon to all, excepting General Pepe and a few 
 others, was immediately circulated; the Austrian troops 
 returned to their country, all except five thousand, and the 
 kingdom of the Sicilies might be said again to enjoy tran- 
 quillity. Among the many visitors that came to the R , 
 
 was an English woman, who having married an Austrian 
 sergeant had followed him, during a long and dreary march, 
 subsisting upon his scanty pay (less than four pence sterling 
 per day,) without a murmur, apparently satisfied with her lot, 
 a proof of what an English female will go through for the 
 man she loves ; on the husband and wife coming on the lower 
 deck, as soon as it was known that she was a countrywoman, 
 all the messes were anxious to get hold of them ; they were 
 most cheerfully welcomed, and on leaving the ship took as 
 much biscuit with them, as they could well carry. The fall 
 of 1821, was spent in Malta, and as there was then but little 
 
139 
 
 to do in the Mediterranean, the ships lay all the winter in 
 harbour, quiet; but when the spring of 1822 came, it was 
 deemed proper to cruize to the different ports, in order to give 
 Jack his sea legs, and prevent him from forgetting his sea 
 duty ; after having taken a regular round about turn, among 
 the different Islands of Corfu, Zante, Cephalonia, &c., without 
 any thing very particular taking place, late in the summer, 
 
 the R visited Porto Ferrajo, in the Isle of Elba, so famous 
 
 for having been the residence of the Ex-Emperor of the French, 
 and from which he made his escape. To a person in exile, with 
 his ambitious views crushed, Porto Ferrajo must have been 
 a delightful spot, but to a restless aspiring mind, like Napo- 
 leon's, it was a prison ; the harbour is well sheltered from 
 all winds, the town is of a considerable size, and is built 
 upon a rising ground, on the right on going in, and really has 
 a very pretty appearance, as it possesses that great rarity in 
 most foreign towns, cleanliness. I was told by a very respec- 
 table person there, that at the time of the Emperor's (for he 
 was still so called) residence there, every part of it was full 
 to crowding ; completely occupied by those French officers 
 who had followed the fortunes of their chief; but since his 
 departure, it was again fallen to nothing ; half the houses 
 were shut up. The house which had once been the residence 
 of Napoleon was pointed out to me, there was nothing in it 
 to mark the residence of one who had so very lately swayed 
 the sceptre of France, and almost awed half Europe ; 
 but I was informed that he had a very fine house in the 
 country, which I saw nothing of. As many of our officers as 
 could be spared, visited the loadstone mines at Riow ; I saw 
 ^ome beautiful specimens of the ore, and among other things 
 a very small piece of the stone, which lifted four and a half 
 pounds of iron. The time of our laying here was the Tunny 
 season ; as any noise drives the fish out again, the inhabitants 
 sent a request to the Admiral that no guns might be fired, or 
 
 K2 
 
140 
 
 drums beat, otherwise he would lose the pleasure of seeing the 
 sport, and their season of fishery would be lost. 
 
 The Tunny fish is very large, weighing from 80 to 200 
 pounds, and as the mode of catching it is curious, I will 
 describe it. When caught and cut it is of a deep red colour, 
 and in the surrounding markets, where it finds a ready sale at 
 a high price, it is deemed a great delicacy ; my description is 
 from personal observation and not from hearsay. When it is 
 ascertained that the Tunny is r*ear shore, and approaching the 
 harbour, an immense square net is so laid that it encloses all 
 the mouth of the harbour ; that part of the square which im- 
 mediately faces the sea lifts up to the water's edge, and is thus 
 kept up by two very light boats with one man in each ; inside 
 of that square net is another about two third's the size of 
 the outer one, this also has gates, and is similarly supported 
 by two little boats ; inside of these two is a third, but this 
 third is much smaller and has a bottom ; this also has gates 
 with heavy leads to sink them in a moment. The first square 
 is called the entrance At the first of the flood, the Tunny 
 chases shoals of small fish and finds free admittance into the 
 entrance, but the moment it is found that no more fish are 
 coming the gates are let down, and thus the fish is en- 
 closed in the outer square where it does not long remain in 
 peace, for both the little boats which held up the gates being 
 now unoccupied, commence chasing the fish and beating the 
 water, till after a few round turns it finds its way inside the 
 second gates which are immediately dropped, and again the 
 poor terrified fish finds himself in a closer prison, which is 
 called the hole ; driven again he enters the third place, which is 
 called the chamber, where he meets his doom. Sometimes, but 
 it rarely occurs, the poor driven fish makes a vigorous effort, 
 springs over the net and regains his freedom, but that must be 
 done quickly or it is too late, for round the upper part of the 
 chamber is a stout running rope which when hauled well in 
 
141 
 
 completely forms a purse, and thus entangles the devoted fish, 
 and does away all possibility of escape. Early in September, 
 
 the R left Elba for Genoa, where we anchored on the 
 
 18th, exactly between the Mole Heads ; it was a most dan- 
 gerous situation, but the master was fearful of not having 
 sufficient water inside the Mole, and that very fear was nearly 
 the cause of the loss of the ship and probably all hands. On 
 the 22nd the wind set in, it came on to blow a gale and the sea 
 very heavy, there was no room to veer cable ; the ship had 
 ninety fathoms out ; it certainly was a good scope, but it was 
 very doubtful how long she might ride in safety; thus for 
 thirty-six hours the ship was in a most critical situation : it 
 moderated at last and the sea went down. .On the 24th we 
 got out and sailed for Malta where we remained until the 
 24th of March, 1823, and again our summer tour re-com- 
 menced, and we again visited all the chief places in Sicily and 
 the Gulf of Venice. In May, the period for which the ship 
 had been commissioned was expired ; all looked forward with 
 hope to the arrival of our relief to see our homes again, but 
 for a long time we were doomed to bitter disappointment, for 
 first one ship was commissioned, then another, and the second 
 one was detained from various causes. Early in October we 
 returned to Malta, had a slight refit, and patiently waited for 
 our relief; month after month passed by and no relief ap- 
 peared. Seamen in England had been so long neglected, that 
 they had gone across the Atlantic for employ, so that it was not 
 till January, 1824, that we had the happiness of seeing our 
 relief come round the point; 24th we sailed for England, 
 taking Naples and Leghorn on our way home. At Naples we 
 got several statues which had been lately dug from the ruins 
 of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and sent them as a present to 
 His Majesty to ornament his pavilion ; among the statues were 
 two of Venus and Minerva, each of which weighed upwards 
 of four tons, and barely went down the main hatchway. After 
 a most trying and long passage we again anchored at Spithead 
 
142 
 
 the R having been a contract built ship was very bad, 
 
 and it was high time she should come home. 
 
 A few hours after my arrival, I had the happiness of again 
 seeing my dear family, my children were wonderfully im- 
 proved, and I found that during my absence my friends had 
 interested themselves and got the eldest boy admitted into the 
 Royal Asylum, at Greenwich, one of the many institutions 
 supported by the navy of our country. The ship was ordered 
 to Chatham to be paid off, and on my leaving her the Captain 
 gave me, besides my ship's certificate, one written by himself, 
 for good conduct, &c. ; it was unasked for, and received with 
 gratitude and pleasure. Whatever may be thought of these 
 certificates, they are frequently of great service in our way 
 through life. On our way to London where my wife had 
 some relations, we called at Greenwich to see our dear boy ; 
 it is really gratifying to the eye of a parent to see the cleanli- 
 ness and comfort that pervades the place, they all looked 
 cheerful and healthy ; as for mine, who was but just ten years 
 of age, a sweet chubby boy, had the glow of health and happi- 
 ness on his cheek ; how happy I felt while pressing him to 
 my bosom, and blessed the hand of those who had placed him 
 in that happy institution. I begged permission to see the 
 
 Captain, now Admiral Me. K , who then had the command; 
 
 on his appearing, I begged leave to return my sincere and hum- 
 ble thanks, not only for the admission of the child, but for 
 the care that had been taken of him. I got permission for 
 him to come out for the evening, and also to spend most of the 
 next day with me which was a great favor as it then was fair 
 time, when none of the boys were allowed out. On the 26th 
 I left him and spent two days in London, and on the 29th, 
 early in the morning arrived at Portsmouth, after an absence 
 of four years. My thoughts again ran upon the merchant 
 service, I looked round me for a ship, but no prospect pre- 
 senting itself, and seeing another ship of war, the B , 74, was 
 then lying in Portsmouth, I called at the Captain's lodgings, 
 
143 
 
 who ordered me on board the ship ; my services were accepted, 
 and again my name was entered upon a ship of war's books. 
 My stay in her was short, but during the time, Captain D 
 interested himself with the Captain Commanding Greenwich 
 Asylum, and through their kindness my dear boy was removed 
 from the lower into the upper school ; I was not even required 
 to sign the bonds which I understood it was customary to do, 
 some kind friend did it for me. 
 
 In January, 1825, an order arrived for the B to proceed 
 
 to Lisbon to protect the British Merchants in that place, im- 
 mediate preparations were made, when in the height of our 
 bustle the bowsprit was found defective ; another ship was 
 
 commissioned in lieu of the B , and we were ordered to be 
 
 paid off, but having so small a number of men it was not until 
 the 23rd of February that she was ready. On paying off, not 
 one man left the ship although they had free permission to 
 do so, but all waited until the end of paying, when a certain 
 number got into each of the watermen's boats then waiting 
 alongside, separated into two lines, leaving a clear way for the 
 Captain's gig to pass. As the much respected Captain pulled 
 through the line of boats, all hats were off, the cheering was 
 deafening, for watermen and marines all joined in the tribute 
 of respect. The Captain took his hat off, and his gig's crew 
 returned the cheers ; the cheer of gratitude for good usage is 
 all that a seaman has to give, 'tis his all, but in nine cases out 
 of ten it flows from the very bottom of his heart. I know such 
 was the case with me, for from many acts of kindness received 
 
 from Capt. D , there was nothing but I would have done 
 
 to serve him in the slightest way, even in the darkest hour of 
 the darkest night. He is no more and cannot see these lines. 
 
 A few days before the B - was paid off, I received a 
 
 letter from Lieut. D , who had been in the R the 
 
 whole time with me, offering me a choice of rates hi the B , 
 
 of which he was then first Lieutenant, but as it was even then 
 uncertain whether or no the ship would be paid off on account 
 
144 
 
 of some orders which had come down, and the difficulty of 
 
 getting my discharge unless paid off, I declined Mr. D 's 
 
 kind offer, and was truly sorry for it in a few days, for when 
 
 the B was paid off, and I applied, all the rates I would 
 
 have taken were filled up and I remained as I was. 
 
 Some days from my leaving the B , I met with Mr. 
 
 W , an Admiralty Mate as they were then called, who had 
 
 been with me in both ships R and B . He informed 
 
 me that he was ordered to join the B m then fitting at 
 
 Woolwich, for a scientific discovery voyage to Behrings 
 Straits, and the South Pacific Ocean ; I saw one of the 
 bills stuck up, they promised six months' advance, blue 
 clothing gratis, and other advantages, which though great 
 were none too much. I cannot say I admired the voyage at 
 all, but just then ships of war were scarce, I had no alternative. 
 March 26th, I went on board the ship at Woolwich, and 
 without any trouble was entered as first class petty officer. 
 The greatest care was bestowed on her outfit ; no pains, no 
 expence was neglected to render her safe and comfortable both 
 to officers and men. Men were easily to be got, but none 
 were entered but such as produced good characters as thorough 
 seamen, or were well recommended. Her boats were the very 
 best, particularly her barge, which might be called a vessel, it 
 was clinker built of mahogany, coppered, and copper fastened, 
 thirty-eight feet four inches long, nine feet eleven inches beam, 
 fitted to carry a 24 pounder carronade, rigged very neatly as 
 a schooner, with two complete suits of sails ; so that whatever 
 became of the ship the barge would have been a refuge for 
 nearly all hands ; our own purchases being unequal to her 
 weight, blocks and falls fitted expressly for the purpose were 
 sent on board from the dock-yard. Our supply of provisions 
 was (as far as the general opinion of us forward ran) liberal in 
 the extreme ; although plenty of old were in store, our salt pro- 
 visions had been got ready for the ship, and were barely corned, 
 besides the usual allowance of provisions. There was a great 
 
145 
 
 quantity of pickled cabbage, sour crout, preserved pippins, 
 portable soup, preserved meats in tin cases, air beds, swimming 
 jackets, &c. rifle pieces, and articles of traffic ; in fact before 
 the ship left Woolwich she was as deep as it was possible for 
 her to sail with, and on her arrival at Spithead it was found 
 needful to take out her 24 pounder carronades and give her 18 
 pounders to lighten the metal as well as to ease the ship. May 
 14th anchored at Spithead ; here I had again the melancholy 
 pleasure of seeing my family ; melancholy it was, for consi- 
 dering the nature of the voyage we were about to commence, 
 there seemed but little prospect of again meeting. Happy it is 
 that the page of futurity is shut from our eyes, for if one half 
 the sufferings I had to go through had then been exposed to 
 my view I should have declined : but the ways of Providence 
 are inscrutable. 
 
 May l?th, 1825, the pay clerk came alongside and gave to 
 each man his six months' advance, which enabled the men to 
 supply themselves with any articles of clothing or traffic they 
 might want ; for my part I spent little for I knew that all I 
 could spare was required at home, and I felt grateful I had it 
 to give. That same evening notice was given that all the 
 females were to leave the ship early in the morning ; not wishing 
 to keep my poor wife on board who was unused to a ship of 
 war, and besides had a babe in arms, I begged her to go on 
 shore while she could do so comfortably, as in the morning 
 boats would be scarce and crowded with women of all sorts ; 
 she took my advice ; I bade my family adieu with an oppressive 
 conviction, it was for ever ; doubly painful, is the agony of such 
 a moment, because it must be hid or only raise a laugh at our 
 expence. As they stepped down the side, I thought all hope 
 was gone, I could scarcely look at the boat rowing on shore ; 
 that night I had the middle watch and a dull one it was. 19th, 
 at 5 P. M. the Captain came off, the anchor weighed, and with 
 a fine breeze at W. S. W. we got round the island ; during the 
 night the wind increased almost to a gale, but towards morning 
 
146 
 
 It veered to N. W., and then to North, and favoured by it the 
 
 B , drove over the waves at a good rate ; she was a dull 
 
 sailer but a good sea boat, so that what she had lost in speed 
 she made up in safety, and other good qualities. May 30th, 
 we anchored at Teneriffe ; the observatory was immediately 
 landed, surveys commenced, water and wine taken in; the 
 
 W , 74 guns, came in the day after us. On the 4th June 
 
 both ships sailed together ; from her very superior sailing it 
 
 was expected that the W would have been in the Brazils 
 
 long before us, but the race is not always to the swift ; so it 
 proved in this case, for we anchored in Rio de Janiero five 
 
 days before the W . 
 
 There were on board the ship a great number of officers and 
 seamen, who had never yet gone South of the Tropics, conse- 
 quently were to be initiated into the mysteries of crossing the 
 Equinoctial line, and entering the dominions of Neptune; 
 great preparations had been making since our leaving Wool- 
 wich, for an event which promised to some part of the crew 
 great amusement, to the other great fear ; many a poor girl 
 at Woolwich, and at Spithead had been deprived of some part 
 of her wardrobe, to adorn Amphitrite ; from one a night cap 
 and gown had been stolen, from another some other part of 
 dress, and although I had no hand in it, I was as bad as the 
 rest, for I was consenting thereto. An immense grey horse 
 hair wig, sufficiently long to reach well down the back of 
 Neptune, had been purchased in England by subscription, 
 accompanied by a venerable grey beard to sweep his aged 
 breast ; a tin crown and a trident completed the regalia. On 
 a review of all those who previously had crossed the line, I 
 was selected as Neptune ; in vain I endeavoured to defend 
 myself from being deified, it was useless, I must be Neptune, 
 all remonstrance was vain; I took it, resolved to use the 
 trident with mildness. Now reader fancy to yourself the writer 
 of these lines with his legs and arms well blacked, his cheeks, 
 vermillion, short and very loose trowsers, a double frilled 
 
147 
 
 shirt, from whose ample folds the salt water dripped plentifully, 
 two swabs for epaulets, a long grey horse hair wig, a vene- 
 rable beard of the same colour, a tin crown, a trident, and to 
 complete the whole, a hoarse church yard cough ; fancy all 
 this I say, and Neptune, or your humble servant in his shape 
 stands before you. The evening before we expected to cross 
 the line, the lookout man reported at 8, P. M., a light a head; 
 presently a hoarse voice hailed "ship ahoy" which being 
 answered by the Captain, Neptune intimated his intention to 
 visit the ship early next morning. Accordingly early in the 
 morning the ship was made snug, the top-sails were close 
 reefed, courses hauled up, top gallant sails furled, a new sail 
 was secured to the gunwale of the barge on the booms, the 
 other edge to the hammock netting, leaving a hollow of eight 
 feet, capable of containing an immense quantity of water; 
 into this sail the very men who were to be dipped in it, were 
 employed in pumping and bailing water, little thinking, poor 
 creatures, they were making a rod for themselves. A gun had 
 been dismounted on the forecastle, the carriage made into a 
 car, on which were to sit Neptune and Amphitrite, and between 
 them the Triton ; in order to keep all secret, a sail was run 
 across the forecastle to screen Neptune and his gang from 
 observation. Just before the appointed time, all who were 
 likely to undergo the dreadful operation of shaving were 
 ordered below, the gratings put on, and a constable stationed 
 to prevent the ascent of more than one at a time ; a wise 
 regulation, for our numbers were nearly equal, and had they 
 shown fight, might have conquered ; a rope was rove through 
 a block on the main yard arm, to one end of which was 
 secured a handspike, astride of which sat a man with his 
 hands fastened to the rope over his head. 
 
 At 10, A. M. the screen across the forecastle was withdrawn, 
 and exposed to full view, Neptune and his followers. The 
 Purser who had never before crossed the Equinoctial, and who 
 beside was rather inclined to be miserly, applied to the Captain 
 
148 
 
 for his orders against shaving ; hush ! Mr. M said the 
 
 Captain, Neptune commands to day, and should I interfere, 
 might ask me some questions, I should find it difficult to 
 answer. A few minutes after four bells, the car was on the 
 quarter deck ; the officers forming a half circle, in the front 
 of which stood the car. When the venerable old Nep, appa- 
 rently worn down with age and care, rose from his seat, and 
 thus addressed the officers, frequently turning to the Purser. 
 
 " \V ny should old Nep the tropic past omit, 
 
 " Or seamen's custom of observing it ? 
 
 " Where travelers when first arrived advance 
 
 11 To pay their freedom, sugar, rum, or nantz ; 
 
 " But if pale poverty the wight surround, 
 
 " Or surely he refuse his quart or pound, 
 
 " With little from his slender plea we'll try, 
 
 " lie must be moistened if his jury's dry ; 
 
 " Straight on yon well poised pole is culprit swung, 
 
 " His arms embrace the rope by which he's slung, 
 
 " Aloft 1 cry, and lo aloft he's soared, 
 
 " The highest mortal we survey on board ; 
 
 " But let his future fate inform you all, 
 
 " The highest have the greatest height to fall, 
 
 " Again I cry, and downwards swift he slides, 
 
 " Cuts the thin air and wond'ring floods divides ; 
 
 " Again aloft he does not long remain, 
 
 " Alas, he rises but to fall again ; 
 
 " Thrice the blythe crew, the diving miser see, 
 
 " And the third plunge completely sets him free ; 
 
 " Joyous I'll quit you then with this remark, 
 
 " I'd treat ten Neps e'er I'd invite a shark." 
 
 A very appropriate address indeed Father Neptune, observed 
 the Captain, " will you take a glass of wine ?" As it was 
 offered so it was accepted ; I drank a good health to the tars 
 of Great Britain. Another glass was handed to Amphitrite, 
 who, mother like, offered some to the triton by holding the 
 glass to his lips, taking at the same time special care that not 
 one drop should go inside his mouth ; the Purser seeing that 
 he was likely to meet with no support, -and dreading the yard- 
 
149 
 
 arm and No. 1 razor, turned to me and said " well Father 
 Neptune what is it to be'?" " Oh just what you please sir, 
 only remember that the rules of Neptune are like the laws of 
 the Medes and Persians, they alter not." " Well then/ 5 said 
 the Purser, ce I will give you two bottles of rum, and some 
 porter for yourself;" but I could see it gave the poor Purser a 
 terrible twitch to be forced to so much generosity : the business 
 with the officers was very soon ended, as they were liberal ; we 
 gained nothing in the end by it. The first of the ship's company 
 that were shaved, who was brought up blindfolded by the whole 
 posse of constables was the armourer, a weather-beaten honest 
 old Hibernian, who had been a farrier in the Peninsular Army 
 for many years. At the reduction, he had found his way 
 as armourer of some small craft, and thence to our ship ; on 
 his entering for our ship, so anxious was he to be within the 
 given age, which was thirty, that on being asked his age he 
 gave it as eight and twenty, although fifty-six was written 
 in legible characters on his old cribbage face, which through- 
 tmt the ship 5 s company had gained him the cognomen of old 
 eight and twenty. On this man then the barber had to per- 
 form his first functions ; a bucket was filled with all the 
 cleanings of the hen coops, pig-sty s, &c. and with it a due pro- 
 portion of tar had been mixed; with a large paint brush 
 dipped in this villanous compound, and his razor, close to him 
 the barber stood waiting the signal. My first question was 
 
 ft what is your name my man ?" f( John S , your honour/ 5 at 
 
 the instant of his opening his mouth the brush went across 
 it, when the face the poor creature made it is impossible to 
 describe, " phoo what do you call that ?" " what do you call 
 that ?" I again asked the old man how old he was, "eight and 
 twenty your honour, and so I am ; oh I will spake no more, 
 I will spake no more/ 5 As a last effort to make him open his 
 mouth, I said if you mean to put him overboard, mind have 
 a good rope round him for perhaps he cannot swim. Terrified 
 at the idea of being thrown overboard the poor fellow said, ei I 
 
150 
 
 cannot swim, oh, I cannot swim ;" but as the brush again 
 crossed his mouth, he uttered with his teeth closed, " I will 
 
 spake no more, by J s I will spake no more if you drown 
 
 me." Amid a roar of laughter two men tripped the handspike 
 on which he sat and sent him backward into the sail where 
 the bear was waiting to receive him ; it was soon over, he 
 escaped and stood by to see his shipmates share his fate. At 
 the time of his being shaved he was not aware who Neptune 
 was, when he found it out I could not get him to speak to 
 me for some time ; at length Irish good temper conquered, 
 and we were friends again. The shaving continued until after 
 two o'clock, the decks were washed and every thing was set 
 to rights again ; Neptune's gang cleaned themselves, and in 
 the evening attended at the several officers berths to receive 
 the promised contributions. There was some demur as to 
 quantity, but what was given was even too much, for some 
 carried on drinking all night ; for my part I was glad to get to 
 my hammock and enjoy a privileged night's rest granted to 
 Neptune's crew. 
 
 June the 30th being Sunday, we made the two islands 
 called Fernando and Noremha ; the cutter was sent on shore 
 to see what refreshments could be got ; in the first bay we 
 found a good anchorage close to a high arched rock, from 
 which flowed a beautiful river of water ; fish seemed to abound 
 for the beach was covered with it drying, and wild pigeons 
 flew about in great numbers. There were but few settlers ; one 
 of them told me that the Portuguese Government to whom 
 these islands belong, had some years before transported females 
 to one island and males to the other ; but such had been their 
 insubordination on both sides, that it had been found needful 
 to remove them, and at present the inhabitants consisted 
 of settlers from the mother country ; from them we procured 
 some poultry, fruit, and six small turtle of the green kind. 
 The wind was favourable, our time limited, so we soon returned 
 to the ship, hoisted tfie cutter up and made sail southward, 
 
151 
 
 passed among the Canaries and Cape de Verd Islands without 
 any thing worthy of notice taking place, except the awful 
 thunder and forked lightning so common along the coast. 
 Providentially no damage was done ; to a stranger it is par- 
 ticularly alarming. July llth, passed Cape Frio and next 
 day entered the port of Rio de Janeiro, came to and saluted 
 the flag ship, H. M. S. Cambridge. 
 
 San Sebastian, the Capital of the Brazilian Empire, lies on 
 the left of the harbour or bay, and from the sea makes a 
 handsome appearance ; particularly the palace, of the present 
 Emperor Don Pedro, which forms three parts of a square, 
 facing the sea; the harbour, filled with ships of all nations 
 bespeaks its wealth and commerce. On the opposite side of the 
 bay, at the footof a high range of mountains lies Braganza, where 
 the villas of the Brazilian nobility, and the houses of the British 
 Merchants are situated. Upon the whole Rio presents from the 
 sea a beautiful prospect to a stranger, where nature clad in hilly 
 majesty sheds a portion of her own loveliness around; but 
 however pleasing it may be before landing, the moment he 
 sets his foot on shore his eye is disgusted with the filthiness of 
 the place, and his feelings are wounded by the sight of slavery 
 in all its bitterest horrors. There you commonly see the 
 lacerated back of the slave, who, in addition to his agony 
 under punishment, has to bear an iron collar round his neck 
 for having attempted to escape. Such scenes as these na- 
 turally turn the thoughts to our own dear little Island where 
 slavery is known only by " tales of other lands." Forbid it 
 Heaven that I should say that the Portuguese are all unfeeling 
 masters, I hope for the sake of humanity it is not so, but from 
 personal observation I deem a feeling heart to be very scarce 
 among them. Sometime during our stay in the Brazils a 
 boat came alongside with a Portuguese Merchant, who brought 
 some money to be carried round Cape Horn, I was called to 
 act as a sort of interpreter between the merchant and the 
 clerk. After the business was settled, the merchant waiting 
 
152 
 
 for his receipts, entered into conversation with me ; observing 
 an unfortunate black in his boat who had a heavy iron collar 
 round his neck, from which projected three long pieces of 
 iron, I called him out of the boat, gave him a few vintains 
 (copper money) and measured his collar, it was 3J inches in 
 circumference, 17| in length, and so placed, that the poor 
 creature could not lay down, but must be constantly in a 
 reclining posture. On my asking the merchant the reason, 
 he with one of his national shrugs told me, he had run away 
 three times, and for each time one of these torturing pieces 
 had been put on. While we lay here, a severe though very 
 short shock of an earthquake was felt, a few miles from the 
 city ; many houses were destroyed, and lives lost, but a won- 
 derful instance of Providential escape came to my knowledge, 
 
 which I must relate. A Mr. D , a merchant, who had 
 
 retired upon a small income, was standing smoking a cigar 
 only a few yards in front of his house ; his wife was in a garden 
 at the back of the house, w r hen the shock opened the earth, 
 and took away house, slaves and all, buried in one awful ruin, 
 while husband and wife were one on each side of the dreadful 
 
 chasm in perfect security. A Mr. one of our clerks, on a 
 
 visit to the coffee plantation of a friend, saw on a tree some 
 animal, and taking up an orange, struck it on the head, and 
 knocked it down ; it proved to be a beautiful specimen of the 
 Vampire Bat, and was of an unusual size, and measured from 
 tip to toe 174 inches; it had done so much damage to the 
 plantation that the owner had offered ten dollars to have it 
 killed. About a week before we left the harbour, fourteen of 
 our men left us, four of them had taken away the jolly boat 
 and got safe on shore. One of them had run from the beef 
 boat one morning, the midshipman of the boat, a mere boy, 
 on his first trip to sea, and who stuttered very much, came off 
 full of grief, and seeing the Captain on the quarter deck, went 
 and told him that the moment the boat's bow had touched 
 the shore, Martin had jumped out and ran among the crowd ', 
 
153 
 
 and, said the Captain, " I suppose Mr. H , you sat and 
 
 looked at him running ;" the little fellow hurt that it should 
 be supposed he had not done his best to recover the man, 
 stuttered out ee n no sir, I ga gave sheet after him $" the 
 captain laughed, and the youngster saved a journey to the 
 mast head. As men were not to be got easily, it was necessary 
 to get them back on any terms ; application was made to the 
 authorities but without success, at last the Captain himself 
 thought of a scheme, by which all those we wanted were safely 
 got back. He gave out that he positively would sail on a certain 
 day ; on the appointed day the ship was got underweigh in 
 the afternoon, and just at dusk came to at the mouth of the 
 harbour ; after dusk a boat well manned and armed was sent 
 up to the place, and the men supposing the ship on her way 
 Southward had come into the town, and thus became an easy 
 prey to the police and to our boat ; six of them were taken in 
 one room, enjoying themselves after the privations of a week's 
 residence in the woods ; all were brought on board except two 
 lads, who were of little use. About 3, weighed and made sail, 
 signalized with the Briton frigate, just outside Rio ; for the 
 first three weeks of our passage the weather was excessively 
 hot, the thermometer being frequently as high as 92 in the 
 shade, but after that, it became temperate and then cold. 
 Previous to our leaving England, an order had been given for 
 no one to burthen themselves with blue clothing, so that the 
 cold was sensibly felt by most of us, for August and September 
 are considered the winter months round the Cape, On the 
 27th August, a complete suit of clothing, consisting of blue 
 jacket, trowsers, Guernsey frock, flannel shirt, two pair of 
 stockings, comforters, Welch wigs, mitts and shoes were given 
 to each man ; the cloth was really excellent, but the sewing 
 horrid, however as Jack mostly uses his needle as well as his 
 marlinespike, we all set to to sew all the seams over again ; for 
 my part, I walked away with my bale, truly thankful for the 
 liberality of government in thus providing for our wants ; 
 
154 
 
 many of the lads gave the tailors a liberal share of curses for 
 not doing^ better work, but most were grateful ; I always think 
 that nothing contributes so much to our gratitude, as when 
 we feel the comfort of the gift, injuries should be written on 
 dust, and gratitude on marble. Early in September we got a 
 sight of Cape Horn, a spot in former years so much dreaded 
 by navigators, now little thcrught of; that it has in time past 
 been a volcano is evident, now neither fire or smoke issue 
 from it. A ship going round the Cape, thus in the depth of 
 winter is exposed to very bad weather ; I cannot form an idea 
 of any thing so grand as the sight of a ship off the Cape, 
 under a closed reefed main-topsail, covered with ice and snow, 
 and plunging up and down upon the mountain billows, some- 
 times entirely buried in the foaming surge, and a few moments 
 after rising as it were to the skies ; scenes like these will im- 
 press the most hardened with serious thoughts, for then the 
 mind of man after wandering to and fro in search of some- 
 thing to dwell upon, at last fixes itself upon its benevolent 
 Creator, and feelings arise which operate upon the whole of 
 our future lives. Happy the being who follows their guidance ; 
 impressions formed at such moments are frequently lasting. 
 
155 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 A CURRENT'S THWARTING FORCE. 
 
 IT was intended to have shortened the passage by going 
 through the straits of Le Maire, but repulsed by the winds 
 and currents, we were obliged to bear up, and thus lengthened 
 the run. From reports I expected to see the Patagonians, a 
 regular race of giants, as the seamen say, seven feet between 
 the eyes, but though they were tall, I saw none that exceeded 
 six feet four, and these were not numerous. After a fair run 
 we got round the Cape, and with a fresh breeze bore up for 
 the Bay of Conception, where on the 1st October we anchored, 
 and found laying there the Cambridge, Briton, Tartar, Blonde, 
 and Dart, a pearl fisher. The Bay of Conception entirely 
 landlocked, and enclosed at its entrance by the Island of Quara- 
 quino, is ot an immense size, capable of containing a vast 
 number of ships ; the land is good and productive, but such is 
 the indolence of the people, that we found it difficult to 
 procure even vegetables ; there is one village at the bottom of 
 the bay, but the inhabitants are poor to a degree, living mostly 
 on Indian corn, and mussells with which the shore abounds. 
 They are a mixture of Spaniards and Indians, with long black 
 hah* matted with filth and vermin ; such as is in their power 
 to give, they are liberal with, if it costs them no work ; their 
 houses are built with a sort of clay, mixed with straw, thatched 
 with coarse new grass, the inside is much worse than the out- 
 side. Nine miles from this is the City of Conception, the 
 
 L2 
 
156 
 
 largest within a great distance ; its houses are white washed, 
 and built more regularly, so that from the sea it has a pleasing 
 appearance, but like most Spanish towns, the streets are one 
 continued scene of dirt and filth. The observatory was landed, 
 and I was sent on shore to watch and take care of the instru- 
 ments. One of our gentlemen, Mr. S , during a morning 
 
 ramble met a little boy about eight years of age, a mixture of 
 Indian and Spaniard, with a shaggy head of hair, a perfect 
 
 stranger to the comb, a sort of nondescript animal. Mr. S 
 
 being very desirous of taking his likeness, offered him half a 
 dollar to stand still. The little fellow eyed the money, and 
 supposing it a free donation, stopped and held out his hand, 
 but seeing the drawing apparatus come forth, took to his heels, 
 
 and without looking right or left ran away, leaving Mr. S 
 
 to regret the loss his drawings had sustained. Some days 
 after one of the officers purchased a bird just out of the nest, 
 entirely covered with long white down, which he understood 
 to be a young Condor ; great care was taken of it, supposing 
 we had met with a wonderful acquisition to our specimens ; 
 I was for a whole day employed in making a net work cage 
 for it, when after some months of the utmost care, it turned 
 out nothing more or less than a Turkey Buzzard. The boats 
 of the squadron watered us, and our own boats were employed 
 in digging coals, which were had upon paying so much per ton. 
 One of the men belonging to H. M. S. Cambridge, here gave 
 himself up as the murderer of Mr. Bond and his housekeeper 
 at Woolwich, and was sent home in the Tartar, a four masted 
 frigate ; but on his arrival it was found he had only done it 
 to get clear of his ship. He was sent out of the land for five 
 years, as a just punishment. 
 
 During our stay here one of our men Robert O , a poor 
 
 foolish Welshman as he was called, left the boat while on 
 shore ; from his simplicity the first Lieutenant supposed he 
 had only strayed, and forbore to make any immediate search, 
 but when it was too late he was found to have sailed in a 
 
157 
 
 small vessel. 19th, the Tartar sailed for England, taking 
 with her the last bag of letters we were likely to send for a 
 long time ; the other ships sailed at the same time for Val- 
 paraiso, for which place we also sailed on the 20th, and on the 
 23rd again joined all our companions in the Bay of Valparaiso. 
 It is a large open bay filled with ships of all nations, who call 
 there on their way to the different ports in the Pacific. It is 
 sheltered from all winds, Northern excepted, which prevail in 
 June and July, and render it dangerous for ships to lay there. 
 On the left, the land rises by a gentle ascent, till it terminates 
 in the Andes, a range of mountains supposed almost the 
 highest in the world. 
 
 The town of Valparaiso is by far the best on that side of the 
 Cape ; its cleanliness and good streets are more to be attributed 
 to the foreign merchants that inhabit it, than to the natives of 
 the place, whose indolence prevents them from struggling with 
 any trouble or labour ; here we completed all our provisions 
 and stores, got a supply of fresh beef, and among other things 
 got a bull and cow for Pitcairn's Island. 26th October, got 
 under weigh from Valparaiso ; during our stay there we had 
 shipped one man who was engaged to assist the naturalist in 
 his researches after plants, and also to preserve birds ; he 
 was a great acquisition to the voyage, being reputed one of 
 the best shots in England. November 6th, we made land, or 
 it might more properly be called a reef, for it was only one 
 ledge of shingle and rough stones ; not a vestige of a tree or 
 verdure was to be seen on it ; Tropic birds in abundance, but 
 extremely shy. Round its shores sharks were innumerable ; 
 all means were tried to catch them, but food being plentiful 
 they would not touch our bait. This we found to be the Isle 
 of Salus ; our stay there was but short ; we made sail, and on 
 the 13th again saw the land, Easter Island, a fine high fertile 
 island, named as it is supposed, from the day on which Capt. 
 Cook discovered it : as we neared the land, the natives in 
 vast numbers were seen running along the beach in order to 
 
158 
 
 keep up with the ship ; they seemed all very anxious for us to 
 land. At one, in the afternoon, the ship was hove to,, the 
 cutter, gig, whale boat, and jolly were sent on shore under the 
 
 command of Lieut. P -, who was cautioned to try the 
 
 dispositions of the natives before he attempted to land. I 
 was in the cutter steering her; as we drew near to the 
 shore the natives seemed very desirous we should land, making 
 signs and shewing yams, bananas, and other fruits to entice 
 
 us to come on shore. Mr. P not wishing to run any risk, 
 
 ordered the boats to be anchored about half a cable's length 
 from the beach ; the natives seeing that we were not inclined 
 to land, swam to the boats in great numbers, many of them 
 with bunches of bananas, willingly exchanging them for any 
 trifling article we might have to give. The natives were of a 
 very bright copper-colour, perfectly naked, fine long black hair 
 floating gracefully on the water as they swam about. After 
 
 having been about an hour in the boats, Mr. P feeling 
 
 confident of their friendly intentions, ordered the boats to be 
 dropped in shore, and himself and all hands landed, taking 
 presents and articles of traffic with him, and at the same time 
 leaving the coxswain in each of the boats to guard the arms, 
 and keep the boats afloat. Being the largest boat I hauled 
 off, and each of the smaller boats made fast to me to be ready 
 to drop at a moment's notice ; most of the officers had taken 
 their swords and one in particular his pistols. 
 
 For nearly two hours I remained quiet ; numbers of the 
 natives were playfully swimming round the boats, at last one 
 of them, a girl of about sixteen, threw one foot over the gun- 
 wale of the boat and rolled in, and without the slightest alarm 
 came and sat alongside of me in the stern sheets of the boat, 
 had a fair examination of all parts of my dress, managed with 
 some trouble to unbutton my shirt sleeve, and having tucked 
 the sleeve well up, laid her arm alongside mine to compare 
 the difference of colour. I think I never saw a handsomer 
 form ; like the rest of the natives, she was of a bright copper- 
 
159 
 
 colour, roman nose, and pleasing features, with hair of glossy 
 black, nothing about her like the thick lipped African. Before 
 I had long enjoyed (for it was enjoyment) her company, I 
 observed that appearances on shore were any thing but peace- 
 able, however my companion did not seem alarmed. Our 
 cutlasses were triced up under the boat's thwarts in two 
 beckets, mine had slipped the hilt out of its place, and was 
 hanging down. The young lady for sometime kept her eye 
 on it without my taking any notice, presently she took a leap 
 and taking the cutlass was overboard in a moment, and I 
 watched her to some distance under water. There were lying 
 by me several muskets and pistols loaded, I certainly might 
 have shot the poor girl, but where is the heart who could level 
 a pistol at a beautiful woman? Just then I observed our 
 officers and men making a precipitate retreat to the beach, and 
 the natives following them with a shower of stones quite to 
 the water's edge. The Purser during the fray had been 
 stripped completely to the skin, and on getting to the boat 
 was obliged to cover himself with the boat's mizen. 
 
 At the landing place upward there was a gently rising hill 
 which terminated in a beautiful plain ; an old man named 
 
 M s, was assistant to the naturalist, and earned his 
 
 plants in a tin box much in the shape of a soldier's knapsack ; 
 just as the old man stood on the edge of the hill, a very large 
 stone, from the slings of one of the natives struck his tin box 
 with such force as to knock him on his side, and sent him roll 
 after roll down to the water's edge, with a noise that astonished 
 us all ; the old man was not hurt, but much alarmed, he soon 
 sprung up, and casting a melancholy look at his late course, 
 said (e I maunt go there again ;" the boats were got in, and 
 the men embarked, and although the natives were very thick 
 no order to fire was given, for a shot would have done much 
 havoc. As the boats pulled out and I was steering the cutter, 
 a heavy stone struck me on the head and cut through a new 
 leather hat, and inflicted a dreadful gash in my head, from 
 
160 
 
 which after some time Dr. N extracted a large piece of 
 
 the skull ; as it was it laid me senseless, and thus I was taken 
 to the ship where the wound was dressed, as well as several 
 others who had also been slightly wounded. For my part 
 several days passed, and it was doubtful whether I should ever 
 recover ; youth and a good constitution, with the blessing of 
 the Almighty, aided by the Surgeon, recovered me, and I again 
 resumed my duty. Considering the friendly way in which 
 some navigators had been treated, it seemed strange that these 
 people should have acted thus, but it was afterwards found 
 out that an American South-seaman had, a short time before, 
 visited the same island, and having decoyed a great number of 
 their females on board, had made sail and taken twelve with 
 them. Considering the aggravated injury, it is not the least 
 to be wondered at that these poor creatures should seek to 
 revenge themselves in a most cruel manner, and as soon as 
 possible the boats were got up and sail made on the ship. 
 
 November 24th, the land was again seen from the mast 
 head ; on nearing it we found it to be a long low island, not 
 much unlike the Isle of Salus; boats were immediately 
 manned and sent on shore to survey the island ; on landing it 
 was found a rocky barren spot not more than two feet above 
 high water mark, and on the very top of it the remains of a 
 very fine ship, in such a state of decay, that her broadside had 
 fallen in ; all round were strewed sails, masts, spars, casks, 
 chests, &c., with cabin furniture, and various utensils of 
 cookery ; there was not a paper to be seen or any thing by 
 which the destiny of her crew could be known. We should 
 even have remained ignorant of her name, had not one of the 
 men found one of her spars, on the heel of which was burnt 
 Matilda, Plymouth, and by it we found that the ship now 
 before us had fitted out in Plymouth for a whaling voyage in 
 1 792, and since that no intelligence of her had been received ; 
 it was evident that whatever had become of them the crew had 
 left the island, as not a bit of clothing was to be seen, we 
 
161 
 
 still had hopes of falling in with some of the sufferers upon the 
 different islands we had to visit. There was nothing that 
 could be of any use to us, all was so decayed except the 
 lead on her stem, which served to make fishing leads for the 
 ship's company. Under her bilge innumerable tropic birds 
 had built their nests, so valuable for their plumage, particu- 
 larly two long feathers of a deep red colour on the tail ; they 
 were easily caught, and numbers of them that day lost their 
 skins to ornament private and public museums. As there 
 was no land marked on that spot, the Captain ordered the 
 Island to be named Matilda's Island. Towards evening we 
 again made sail, and on the 28th we again saw the land, Bow 
 Island, and ran the ship into a very fine lagoon, and found 
 there our old companion the Dart busily employed in collecting 
 pearl oysters. The island is low and covered with palm and 
 cocoa-nut trees ; there are but few inhabitants on it, and those 
 wretched to a degree, depending solely on cocoa-nuts and fish 
 for food ; they do not appear to have been long residents here, 
 but are supposed to have been driven by heavy winds from 
 some other island while fishing or at war, for their whole num- 
 ber did not exceed forty. Being myself convalescent I had 
 nothing to do, and for the recovery of my strength was allowed 
 to take gentle exercise, either by going on shore or on board 
 the Dart, and by that means had a fair opportunity of seeing 
 the process of catching the pearl oysters and extracting the 
 pearl. 
 
 The pearl fishing vessels usually call at Otaheite, from which 
 the strongest divers are got and bargain with them for the 
 season for so much (duck,) tappa to do their best for the good 
 of the voyage. A whale boat with from three to four divers 
 leaves the vessel, and when arrived at the spot where they ex- 
 pect to find the oldest and largest oysters, they anchor the 
 boat ; a long pole on each side the boat is then let down to the 
 bottom, unless the water be too deep, in which case the diver 
 goes without one, but in either case he stops always long 
 
162 
 
 enough under water to bring up eight and often more oysters ; 
 rising above the water with a bound, he throws his oysters 
 into the boat, and if not exhausted by his first trip he goes 
 on again ; if fatigued another takes his place. When oysters 
 are plenty the boats are soon filled, and when so go to the 
 vessel. On the deck is a large square table, at one side of 
 which sits the master of the vessel, and at the other the super- 
 cargo, each having a metal plate and knife and fork of the 
 same kind before them so as not to injure the pearl. The 
 oysters are then hove on deck, opened with great caution by 
 the crew, the fish separated from both shells is left on the flat 
 shell and placed on the table alongside each plate in turn ; 
 they are then put on the plate and gently pressed all over 
 with the edge of the metal knife until a hard substance is 
 found, which on being taken out proves a pearl of more or less 
 value. Some of the oysters produce several pearls of different 
 sizes, but it occurs sometimes that several are opened and not 
 a pearl found. When the pearls are taken out they are put 
 into a glass of clean spring water, where those which are the 
 most valuable are the most difficult to distinguish. So expert 
 are these divers at their business that they have been known 
 to open several oysters under water for mere amusement ; but 
 before they reach that power their sufferings are extreme. At 
 all parts of this island parrots were abundant ; numbers of 
 them were shot and eaten by our officers. I ate one roasted 
 which I thought very good, but in such cases hunger is an 
 excellent sauce. Here we also cut some sort of wood of a 
 blood-red colour to which our carpenters could give no name ; 
 it was so hard as to resist the edge of the axe, nothing but 
 a sharp saw could penetrate it, and that but very slowly ; 
 but fire-wood was required for the ship, and however great the 
 trouble it must be had. November 29th, having completed 
 survey, wood and water, weighed and made sail, and on the 
 2nd Dec. made land, which we knew to be Gloucester Island ; 
 seeing that there were some of the inhabitants just abreast of 
 
163 
 
 the ship, a boat was dispatched to the shore while the ship 
 ran along the land ; the boat soon returned, bringing with 
 them a man who, in pretty good English, stated that he was 
 a native of Chain Island, that himself and twenty-one of his 
 fellow islanders, with their wives and little ones, had left Chain 
 Island in two war canoes, for the purpose of paying their 
 respects to the King of Otaheite ; that during their passage, 
 bad weather had come on and blew them about for two or 
 three weeks, when at last in the greatest distress they had 
 been driven in sight and landed upon this island, where they 
 had now been twenty-two moons. He stated his name to be 
 Twarii, and one of the first Chiefs upon the island : he begged 
 that as the ship was bound to Otaheite, he might be taken 
 on board with his wife and two little ones and landed there ; 
 from whence he might send a schooner for his companions in 
 adversity. The Captain kindly granted his request, and 
 although our own provisions were very short he was taken on 
 board with his family, and provisions allowed for them ; for 
 from such a place as Gloucester Island, but little could be 
 expected ; in the evening we made sail. 
 
 On an exact survey of our provisions it was found that all 
 our bread had got very mouldy and bad, and as it was un- 
 certain how long it might be before we could replenish our 
 stock, the Captain deemed it proper to put all hands six upon 
 four of all provisions, rum excepted, and in order to make 
 all upon a par, officers and men were alike. One of the most 
 sensible acts that could be done, as when a difference is made 
 in fayour of officers it invariably creates dissatisfaction, and 
 sometimes serious consequences result from it ; but when a 
 seaman sees his superiors bear with resignation the privations 
 allotted to all, he can no longer murmur. 
 
 Dec. 24th, 1826, at daylight, made the land; a fine large 
 island covered with trees, and laid down on the chart as Oeno, 
 but from what we could see so surrounded by high rollers, 
 that it appeared impossible to land. The cutter was however 
 
164 
 
 got ready, and before she shoved off orders were given to the 
 officer in her to be careful of the rollers, and not endanger the 
 men and the boat or instruments. For sometime we pulled 
 exactly along the rollers, outside of them about a cable's length, 
 till coming to a bay where it seemed rather more smooth, 
 although the rollers were very high the boat was anchored, 
 and from them the officer commenced making his observations. 
 On our right as we lay was a high rocky point, at which only 
 one roller touched now and then. The officer in hopes of 
 landing and getting more correct observations, ordered the 
 cable to be eased away, but instead of tailing in the boat, drove 
 first inside of one roller. Ah 1 hopes were then gone; the 
 officer saw his mistake, and ordered the cable to be hauled in 
 again, but before she could rise over one roller, the next came 
 into her, tore the stern out, and washed all hands out of the 
 boat. I must have been washed on shore by the first or second 
 sea, for on coming to my senses I found myself high and dry 
 upon the beach, which was thickly covered with sea eggs of a 
 very large size, the prickles of which had wounded my back 
 and legs very much. I was at first terrified at seeing the 
 blood streaming from all parts of my body, but finding the 
 wounds but slight, I commenced looking about for my com- 
 panions. Out of ten who had been in her, besides the officer 
 and myself, I could only see the officer and four men ; Mr. 
 
 appeared very much hurt, and said to me " where are 
 
 the rest of them?" (meaning the boat's crew), "ah where 
 indeed sir/' said I, I fear among yonder waves ; four out of 
 the other five soon appeared very much wounded, but all able 
 to walk ; as for the tenth who was a fine healthy young man, a 
 native of Huh 1 , in Yorkshire, he was hurried into eternity, and 
 no where to be found. I am not at all inclined to believe in pre- 
 sentiment, but I well remember only the evening before, as 
 
 Peter T and myself, with the unfortunate youth, were doing 
 
 something on the main-yard, we were passing a small island 
 a few miles on the starboard beam, when the young man 
 
165 
 
 looking at the land, said "Oh that I was on shore there, or 
 any where else out of this ship, for I shall ever be miserable in 
 her." Poor fellow, I saw no just cause why he should be 
 miserable, but his career was short. We remained on the 
 island for some hours without any hope of getting off, provi- 
 dentially the barge was within signal distance ; her signal was 
 made to close, in a short time she anchored outside the rollers 
 with the Captain and Master in her. Two gratings well 
 secured together, and on the top of them two barricoes, were 
 veered through the rollers with new whale line ; one of us 
 at a time sat on the gratings between the barricoes with 
 his back to the sea; and thus sometimes over, sometimes 
 through, were dragged to the barge. Nothing but the most 
 powerful exertions could have saved our lives ; we were taken 
 to the ship, where it was some time before we recovered of 
 our numerous wounds, which though not deep, were very 
 painful. 
 
 It again became necessary to shorten our allowance of pro- 
 visions, and issue to each man at the rate of eight men on the 
 allowance of four, little enough for any thing, but a necessary 
 precaution for our own safety. Each man's allowance of pro- 
 visions for twenty-four hours was then eight ounces of soft 
 bread baked on board daily, six ounces of salt beef or pork, 
 alternate days, six ounces of flour for dinner one day, and one 
 gill of pease the next ; rum was not curtailed, we still had 
 full allowance of that ; little as it was few murmured, for all 
 saw the need of it. It is true it affected our tempers, and 
 among ourselves we seldom agreed, for whoever knew a 
 hungry man good tempered ; I never yet did, and hungry we 
 certainly were. Reader, were you ever really hungry ? I mean 
 not the common hunger arising from health and exercise, and 
 which you have the means of appeasing at your own, or at 
 some one else's cupboard whenever it suits ? no, no, I mean 
 the knawing hunger of starvation ; if you have not, you can 
 form no idea of the agony it causes. It has been my lot 
 
166 
 
 during the vicissitudes of a seafaring life, to have suffered 
 hunger and thirst to excess,, and although it is impossible to 
 express the corporeal agony it causes, yet some notion may 
 be conceived of it from the effect it has on the mind ; it seems 
 to a person oppressed with hunger as if he hated the whole 
 world ; that theft would be a virtue if committed to procure 
 food, and no effort is thought too great to get it. 
 
 Such is the case that a person going to sleep overcome with 
 hunger or thirst, is always sure to dream of it, and in his 
 sleep fancies himself revelling in whatever he most requires ; 
 such was my case, and once in particular (at a subsequent 
 date), it was to be my first watch below ; a few minutes 
 before eight the order was given for the watch to turn in 
 with their boots on, or in other words to lay down with 
 their clothes on, I had just laid down, and dropped off 
 into a sweet sleep, but my waking thoughts haunted my 
 sleeping hours ; I dreamed, (for it was a dream) that I was 
 walking up High Street, Portsmouth, and on my way met 
 Capt. O , with whom I had sailed before, who recog- 
 nised and stopped to speak to me; he soon made some 
 remark upon my meagre look, when I told him that I had 
 just come on shore and was very hungry. With a heart filled 
 
 with pity for which Capt. O was always noted, he said 
 
 poor fellow you look so, but come with me and I will give you 
 something to eat ; I followed, when he led me into the George 
 Inn, and desired the landlady to supply all my wants imme- 
 diately, the landlady apologized that she had nothing in the 
 house but a mutton stew, but part of it should immediately 
 be brought in for me. 
 
 For this very moment the landlady is present to my eye ; 
 methinks I just now see her, a fine stout jolly body of about 
 forty years of age, dressed in a black silk gown with a white 
 habit shirt, a fine open forehead adorned with flat ringlets, a 
 cap rather gaudy that seemed to rival the snow in whiteness ; 
 but best of all the white earthen tureen, and the ladle of the 
 
167 
 
 same, whose bent end was overhanging its side ready for the 
 grasp of a hungry man. The tureen was well filled with the said 
 mutton stew and dumplings (vulgarly called doughboys) grace- 
 hilly floating on the top, and shewing thin white tops over the 
 beautiful brown liquid, oh the happiness, the delight of such 
 a moment ; but mark the change, just as I was about to grasp 
 the ladle, first a gentle twit twit arrested my attention, and 
 presently the horrid pipe of all hands save ship, sounded in my 
 ears. In one moment the gay vision vanished, my hopes were 
 blasted, the ship was on shore ; the result for another chapter. 
 
168 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE ship was on shore ; to a landsman, a person who every 
 night enjoys the comforts of his home, his bed, and his family, 
 it seems but little. No soul breathing can fully appreciate, fully 
 enter into the feelings of men, who in such a place as Behring's 
 Straits, see their ship on shore, but an old experienced 
 seaman : but as I was only relating my dream, and some 
 months supervened before her being on shore, I must return 
 to my former place. 
 
 December 25th, 1825, while our friends were enjoying the 
 blessings of the season, we were very short of food. At day 
 light we saw the land, a very high island, Pitcairn, famous as 
 being the residence of the remaining part of the mutineers of 
 H. M. S. Bounty, very high and rocky, about eleven miles 
 from end to end ; the north east end covered with cocoa nut 
 trees, and on this spot the descendants of the Bounty's muti- 
 neers have erected their dwellings, nine in number. The 
 island itself is dangerous to approach, being surrounded as 
 most of the islands are in the Pacific, with terrible heavy 
 and large rollers, beating with awful fury against the rocks ; no 
 part of it is accessible to boats, except the whale boats of the 
 natives, guided by themselves into a little creek, where they 
 always have a party ready to drag them on shore, the moment 
 they touch the beach, otherwise the draw back surf takes 
 them, and dashes them to pieces on the rocks ; in thus 
 guiding their boats, they have an experience which* could only 
 
169 
 
 have been obtained by dire necessity and constant practice. 
 It being late when we got near the land, we stood off and on 
 all night, and about six the next morning, a whale boat was 
 seen pulling from the land towards the ship. It was about 8 
 when she came alongside ; in the stern of her sat the only 
 
 white man, who was soon known by Captain B , as 
 
 Adams, the only survivor of the Bounty's crew. A minute or 
 two after the boat came alongside, the Captain stepped to the 
 gangway, and looking down into her said " where's old Aleck ?" 
 when one of the men who sat in the boat tapped him on the 
 shoulder, saying, " here he is, is'nt he a venerable old fellow ?" 
 To us, who did not dream of such a thing, we felt surprised 
 at hearing good English spoken in the centre of the Pacific. 
 Aleck, as he was called, was asked to step up ; he seemed 
 much alarmed and trembled, probably painful ideas just then 
 rushed across his mind. It was the first ship of war's side 
 he had ever ascended since the fatal occurrence that had made 
 him an alien and a criminal, and even then he was uncertain 
 how far his life was safe ; but the gentlemanlike and kind re- 
 ception of Captain , soon dispelled his fears, and perfectly 
 
 restored his assurance. Methinks I see him just now, a 
 venerable old man fair as possible, locks short and thin, white 
 as the driven snow, and a countenance a perfect model of be- 
 nevolence. As I stood with my eyes rivetted on the object 
 before me, so calculated to inspire respect, I said to myself, 
 and is it possible that the being before me is a mutineer ; so it 
 is, but who can tell the cause of the mutiny, or how small his 
 share in it has been ? He was dressed in loose white trousers, 
 a white shirt and a straw hat, and was then about 63 years 
 old and in good health ; indeed the very regular habits of 
 himself and hia companions bade fair to insure long life. His 
 companions in the boat, were I think eight in number ; one, 
 his own son, a fine young man, extremely dark, but with the 
 features of the father, about 22 years of age ; and a son of 
 Mr. Christian's, the tallest man upon the island, not so dark 
 
 M 
 
170 
 
 as the other, but with very fine features. He was named by 
 his father, Thursday October Christian, from the day on which 
 he was born; the others in the boat were descendants of 
 Young, Quintal, and Me. Coy. Mr. Adams was invited to 
 breakfast with the Captain and his son in the gun-room ; 
 indeed all were placed at the officers' tables. After breakfast 
 the boats were got out and the Observatory was landed with 
 great trouble, and only by the aid of the natives. I was 
 ordered to remain on shore to take charge of it, and Nep, the 
 Captain's large Newfoundland dog was left to take care of the 
 tent when I left it ; there was no point of duty that could 
 have pleased or suited me better ; my first care was to set up 
 the tents and the Observatory. Besides the tent which covered 
 the instruments, there were two others, in one of which was 
 a small bedstead on which the Captain sometimes reposed 
 until the stars appeared, and the other was my parlour and 
 bed room, in fact my every thing, particularly in places where 
 our meals had to be prepared ; it then became kitchen and 
 pantry with all its other qualities. When my tents were 
 all ready I had a few hours to spare, which I could well have 
 dedicated to sleep, but curiosity conquered, so leaving my 
 faithful Nep in command, I went down to the houses which 
 were only about half a mile from me ; on my way I met the 
 
 venerable old Adams, who informed me that Captain had 
 
 promised to take his meals at each of the houses in turn, and 
 that it was his (Mr. A. 9 a) wish that I should, as often as I could, 
 take my meals at his house ; but when I could not make it 
 convenient to come down, provisions ready cooked should be 
 sent up to me. Mr. A. took me to the different parts of the 
 village, as it might be called ; there were nine houses, built 
 mostly with bamboos, and very neatly thatched with dry cocoa- 
 nut leaves, remarkably clean and in good order. Eight of the 
 houses were dwellings, the ninth was appropriated to public 
 worship as a school, and as a general store for yams, traffic, &c. 
 From observation, it seemed that these people understand the 
 
171 
 
 grand ethic rule, let A do to B as B would wish A to do to 
 him ; the product is honesty and contentment. 
 
 The children and many of the adults were then at school, 
 taught by a young man their schoolmaster, who had left an 
 American South seaman, disgusted with the sea, and become 
 a member of this little community. I saw several little ones who 
 read and wrote very well, indeed there was no one then on the 
 island but could read the scriptures ; about half the island was 
 cultivated, the other half was rocky and barren. They were 
 governed by a regular code of laws, established first by 
 
 Mr. C , and rigidly enforced by Mr. Adams. Mr. A. 
 
 kindly explained to me the whole of their manners and cus- 
 toms, with all the proceedings since their first coming to this 
 island. By the first law, every family had a portion of land 
 to cultivate, except the schoolmaster, who being constantly 
 employed in instruction was a privileged person. When 
 each of the families have gathered the produce of their ground, 
 it does not belong to them individually, but is put into the 
 general store, from whence it is withdrawn to supply the wants 
 of all without regard to the quantity each has put in. Thus it 
 is as to trade with shipping, who sometimes call for refreshments, 
 no purchase is private, and all tend to the general comfort, 
 and to the general stock. Any quarrels, or little family dis- 
 agreements, which will take place in the best regulated families, 
 are all referred to Adams, who, as supreme judge, takes the 
 chair, and by all is called the father. On looking over the dif- 
 ferent plantations, I was surprised at the neatness and re- 
 gularity there displayed ; in their houses there is but little 
 furniture to boast of, but a sort of bamboo bedstead, raised 
 about four feet from the ground and abundantly covered with 
 tappa, a sort of white cloth, manufactured from the palm bark ; 
 there are also stools white as possible, and on the shelves round 
 might be seen knives, forks, and blue plates and basins, the 
 produce of their traffic. Adam's wife had been perfectly blind 
 since the birth of her son, who was then twenty-two years old : 
 
 M2 
 
172 
 
 it was really pleasing to see the kind attention paid to her, not 
 only by her husband, but by all the little community, who, 
 sensible of her privations, endeavoured by the tenderest care 
 to make her forget some of them. 
 
 Whatever occurs, nothing can prevent general and public 
 worship ; the day begins and ends with prayer. At 4, in the 
 morning, every soul on the island repairs to the church-house, 
 as it is called, where two hymns, either of Wesleys or Watts' 
 selections are sung or rather said in a soft plaintive tone, well 
 suited to the scene ; after which a prayer is said, sometimes 
 from a book, sometimes otherwise, but in ah 1 cases every one 
 responds a hearty Amen. When prayer is ended, all are at 
 liberty to return to their houses or go to work in their grounds 
 as occasion may offer. Ten o'clock is the hour all over the 
 island for the first or morning meal, as it is called ; at this 
 time all repair to their houses to breakfast, which usually con- 
 sists of yams, cooked in so many different ways, that a stranger 
 would be puzzled to find out the yam at all. Fish is also used 
 for breakfast : I have seen pork on the breakfast table, but it 
 is not common. Before any one attempts to touch the food, 
 the oldest person at the table implores a blessing on it. It 
 was delightful to see the venerable Adams take his hat off to 
 pray ; it brought to my mind those beautiful lines in Burns' 
 Cotter's, Saturday night : 
 
 " His bonnet reverently laid aside, 
 " The saint, the husband, and the father pray'd 
 " To heaven's eternal king." 
 
 (The quotation may be incorrect for it is long, very long since 
 I read it ;) the day is again devoted to various duties, those 
 whose grounds are in good order and require no tillage, some- 
 times go fishing ; this is either done in their whale boat or off 
 the rocky points of the island. Rock cod are sometimes very 
 plentiful, as also several kinds of shell fish; some of the members 
 of the families who are full of health and strength sometimes 
 go among the rocks where goats are numerous, but very difficult 
 
173 
 
 to catch, but when they can find them on level ground they 
 often run them down. During my stay I saw October Chris- 
 tian and young Adams run down several, which were sent as 
 
 presents to the seamen of the B . Four o'clock is the 
 
 afternoon meal, as they have but two in the twenty-four 
 hours ; at dinner fish, pork, yams, and while we lay there, 
 poultry was found on the table 5 they had no other vege- 
 tables than yams and a little taro. When the afternoon 
 meal is ended, every one again repairs to the church-house 
 and there prayers being said or read and hymns sung, the labour 
 of the day is ended and every one is free to go where he thinks 
 
 proper. Such is the power of Mr. A , founded on pure 
 
 affection, that although for years after the arrival of the muti- 
 neers on this island, they had made rum from the tea roots, 
 still after the death of Mr. Christian, when Adams took the 
 government, he immediately forbade the making as well as the 
 use of spirits, and fearing that addicted as they were to it, they 
 might do it privately, he destroyed the still and by setting 
 them a bright example entirely conquered. Adams himself 
 was a man of no education, but a firm and powerful mind 
 enabled him to conquer difficulties, from which men of liberal 
 education would have shrunk. During my stay on the island 
 I always observed him exercise unbounded authority over all, 
 from which none seemed oppressed, for it was done in a 
 manner so kind, so manly, yet so gently, that all took pleasure 
 in obeying ; one general uniformity seemed to pervade the 
 whole of these happy islanders. Their manners, abilities and 
 habits reflect a lustre on the character of the venerable Adams, 
 which nothing can darken, and for which generations yet 
 unborn may have to bless his name. Whatever dark spot 
 may rest on his name as a mutineer, (and his share was small 
 for from his own lips I had the whole account) his future con- 
 duct to the descendants of his poor deluded countrymen has 
 fully compensated for. Never can I forget, nor can any one 
 that saw it, the day he spent on board the ship ; at 4, p. M, 
 
174 
 
 unbiased by time or place, he fell on his knees at the breech 
 of one of the carronades on the quarter deck, and for a few 
 minutes remained in fervent prayer. He knew that just at 
 that moment -his family were engaged in the same way, and 
 willing not to neglect a duty so sacred, he dropped on his 
 knees and there amid the noise and din of a ship of war, 
 did he implore blessings on those who seldom prayed for 
 themselves. It was said by some on board that it was 
 mere show, but I am convinced to the contrary, for had 
 he known the hour he would have sought a place of retirement ; 
 beside his whole life, and every action bespoke a man who 
 reverenced his God. We boast of our laws and well we may, 
 for they are the best in the world, but to see the pure manner, 
 rigid piety and moral conduct of these islanders, descen- 
 dants of mutineers, showed us an example, it would not be 
 improper to follow ; for my part it left an impression on my 
 mind, I trust I shall never forget. 
 
 During our stay at Pitcairn's Island several of us as far as 
 provisions went were chargeable to them ; still, considering the 
 very low allowance of provisions on which those on board 
 were living, Adams frequently sent bags of yams and several 
 goats, not only to the officers but to the seamen, who grate- 
 full for his kindness collected books, paper, pens, needles, 
 thread, lines, &c., making one common stock and sent them 
 on shore as a token of sincere good wishes to the little com- 
 munity. Among my very small library was a neatly bound 
 
 volume of Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress, to this Mr. A 
 
 took a great fancy ; there was no other on the island or I 
 believe in the ship ; this book had been given me by a daughter 
 as a parting souvenir., and I felt regret at giving it away, but I 
 wrote my name in it and gave it him. A friend who has since 
 been to Pitcairn's, and who was then with us, saw among 
 others my book taken good care of. Our carpenters put 
 both their boats in complete repair, and also did several other 
 jobs for them ; the Captain also ordered them a quantity of 
 
175 
 
 clothing, and a box of seeds of most kinds grown in England. 
 The cow having died on her passage, the bull was useless, it 
 was therefore killed to supply the ship's company ; taking into 
 
 consideration the kindness of Capt. and his officers, for 
 
 all were kind, we left them far better than we found them on 
 our arrival. Even at that time when no more than sixty three 
 souls were on the island, water was not abundant, for when 
 the inhabitants were supplied, there was but little to spare ; 
 and as all danger from removal is done away with, should 
 numbers increase, it will be found needful to remove to some 
 other place more calculated to supply their increasing wants. 
 From Adams 5 own lips, as we sat at the table in his house, I 
 got the whole account of the fatal mutiny which for ever blas- 
 ted the prospects of Mr. C and his companions, and at 
 
 first intended to have inserted it in this little volume, but'fear- 
 ful of giving the slightest offence, or wounding the feelings of 
 any one by recalling to their minds scenes long past, and which 
 we may justly hope from the present pleasing regulations 
 of our navy will never occur again, I shall draw a veil over 
 all the unfortunate affair and only tell the reader that I saw 
 the Bounty, or at least as much of her as had not been burnt, 
 laying on her broadside in six fathoms of water ; it must be a 
 calm smooth day to render her visible, for the least ripple dar- 
 kens the water so that the eye cannot penetrate it. I however 
 managed to get pieces of her from which many snuff boxes 
 and other trifling things were made. On their arrival at Pit- 
 cairn's there were only nine whites with their wives and twenty 
 one of the natives of Otaheite, the whole under the command 
 
 of Mr. C , the rest having been left at Otaheite where 
 
 Mr. C justly believed the visit of a ship of war would 
 
 soon be made. They soon found out the tea root and from it 
 made rum, and to that may be attributed all the loss of life 
 and misfortunes felt during the first nine years of their inhabit- 
 ing this spot. A fatal quarrel between the natives and the 
 whites at last ended in the death of all the blacks, the last of 
 
176 
 
 which were sacrificed by their own wives for the security of the 
 remaining whites. Their poultry and hogs had greatly mul- 
 tiplied, for as yet they had never ventured a float beyond the 
 shores ; after having been sixteen years on the island, Adams 
 was the only remaining white man, and during the distur- 
 bance he also had received a musket ball through his shoulder, 
 the hole of which was, though cured, still deep when we 
 visited them. 
 
 His first care as he told me was to abolish the making of 
 rum, and his next bold effort to destroy the still ; he then 
 began to give to all who chose to attend to it, religious and 
 moral instruction, and by degrees succeeded so well that all 
 looked up to him as a father, and from old and young he bore 
 that name ; it was then that he ventured to communicate with 
 ships. An American whaler hove to off the island, having 
 noticed inhabitants on it ; the islanders ventured off, but the 
 first time Adams did not go, he remained on shore, as he said, 
 to observe the luck of his boys. They got from this ship a 
 great number of articles they stood in need of, after which no 
 vessel came near the island without being visited ; the boat 
 going was usually filled with poultry, yams, &c., and for these 
 they got such articles as the ship had to spare. Thus it 
 
 remained till the visit of Sir T. S , who so kindly exerted 
 
 himself in behalf of these people, that even now, when they 
 name him, they seldom do so without adding, " God bless him." 
 Some months after this visit an American ship hove to off 
 the island ; the second mate of her had so much disagreed 
 with his Captain, that he begged to be left on the island to 
 act as schoolmaster; even the Captain whom he supposed 
 his greatest enemy, said he was a steady intelligent youth. 
 Adams consented to his landing; he married one of their 
 females, and has fully supported the character given him, he 
 was there in J826, a respectable member of the little commu- 
 nity. There was also another white youth, who had belonged 
 to a South sea man, and from some real, or fancied ill usage 
 
177 
 
 had left her, and getting on shore, stowed himself away among 
 the rocks ; search was made for him by his shipmates, but 
 all in vain, and they left the island under the impression that 
 he had perished, either by drowning, or off some precipice ; 
 as soon however as the ship was gone, he crept from his 
 hiding place, and as there was no opportunity of returning 
 him to his ship, they were obliged to make a virtue of neces- 
 sity, and receive him. Some time afterwards he married 
 Adams' daughter, but his conduct gave but little credit to 
 himself, and Adams in telling me about, him, said we have 
 been obliged to chastise him once or twice ; how this was 
 done I know not, and thought it a question too delicate to be 
 asked. At the time of our visit, there were sixty-three souls 
 on the island ; Adams was getting old, but healthy and strong ; 
 from them we got several bottles of rum, which had been made 
 years, and which were thought of a superior quality. Want 
 of water obliged us to quit them ; having taken the observatory 
 on board the ship, we bade adieu, I may say a painful adieu, 
 to these friendly people ; for their kind manners, and truly 
 interesting conduct had rendered them beloved by all, add to 
 which I had for nineteen days been living on the fat of the 
 land, and now had to return to former allowance and priva- 
 tions. On the fourth day from leaving Pitcairn's we made 
 land, the Crescent, and shortly after the rest of the islands 
 known as Gambler's groupe ; this island is long, low and rocky 
 in form Like a crescent. The natives came off in great numbers 
 on rafts or catamarans ; no persuasion could induce them to 
 come on board, or even alongside, but they lay to while our 
 boats went to their rafts ; of all those addicted to theft that 
 we had met, these were the worst, nothing seemed too hot or 
 too heavy for them ; at last one of them unshipped the gig's 
 rudder, and on being prevented by one of the crew, made a 
 tremendous blow at him with a club, which missing his head 
 struck his shoulder ; the man irritated with the blow, and the 
 pain from it, without any orders, took his boat's musket, and 
 
178 
 
 having taken deliberate aim, struck the man in the shoulder ; 
 the man dropped, and was instantly picked up by his com- 
 panions, who immediately disappeared, and no persuasion 
 could induce them to come back again ; the boats were hoisted 
 up, sail made on the ship. At 5, P. M., the anchor was let 
 go in a cove, abreast of a beautiful run of water ; the ship had 
 not been long at an anchor, when leave was given to fish ; 
 the lines were soon overboard, and some very fine rock fish 
 were caught; there were also some very large coral trees 
 brought up from the bottom, some of them measured five feet 
 eight inches in height ; none of the natives came off, although 
 they were very numerous on the shore. Early on Sunday 
 morning a great number of them came alongside, some swim- 
 ming, others on rafts ; without shewing the slightest alarm 
 they came up the side, and by signs and gestures endeavoured 
 to entice us on shore. On coming up the side, the first man 
 who met their eye, they went up to, and touching noses pro- 
 nounced the word modow ; they were a particularly large race 
 of men, like the Eastern Islanders, tatooed nearly ah 1 over the 
 body, no part of the back being left, except a cross of about 
 two inches in breadth, extending across and up and down the 
 back to the waist, but most of them inclined towards the 
 left shoulder; they were in a perfect state of nature, not 
 having the slightest covering, one of them thought that my 
 shoes formed a part of my body, for on my pulling them off, 
 he examined them for some minutes, and then touched my 
 feet ; they did not betray that curiosity or wonder which from 
 such people might have been expected, but like their neigh- 
 bours of the Crescent, they were dreadfully addicted to theft, 
 and so ignorant that they attempted to lift the carronades, 
 and draw the ringbolts out of the deck. A small portion of 
 our food was offered them, but nothing could induce them to 
 taste it ; the most powerful attractions we had, were the two 
 dogs. The Captain had a small one of which he was very 
 fond ; one of the natives seeing him on the ouarter deck took 
 
179 
 
 him up, put him under his arm, and was deliberately walking 
 down the side with him, when Nep the Newfoundland dog 
 seeing the fate his companion and protege was likely to meet 
 with, flew at the man, and placing one of his paws on each 
 shoulder, laid him on his back just inside the gangway, and 
 by putting his teeth close to his nose, very soon induced him 
 to release Rio ; Nep then let him go, and in one moment 
 the man was overboard in the water, followed by his com- 
 panions, who all went on shore, none daring to return. After 
 breakfast being so short of water, and a beautiful run not one 
 cable's length from us, the boats were filled with empty casks, 
 and sent under command of the barge to land and fill with 
 water ; before we landed we observed the natives collecting in 
 great numbers on the edge of the hill, down which the water 
 flowed, but supposing curiosity their only motive, no notice 
 was taken of it. To land the casks was a work of time, for a 
 heavy surf ran on the beach, which being composed of dry 
 coral, cut our feet and delayed us greatly; the last cask 
 was scarcely on shore when a shower of stones, hurled from 
 slings fell into the boats, and wounded four men very severely. 
 An immediate retreat was ordered, the casks left on shore, and 
 the boats came off; such was our situation that water must 
 be had, our last tank was then in broach, the sun shining 
 with desperate fury right over our heads, and our allowance 
 of water but very small. One gun single shotted was fired 
 over their heads to see if that would disperse them, but was 
 useless ; it astonished them no doubt, but had no other good 
 effect ; another was tried with no better success. A boat was 
 again dispatched to see if they would oppose her landing, but 
 scarce had she reached the edge of the surf, when a whole 
 volley of stones drove her in haste back to the ship. 
 
 As soon as this w r as observed, a small hawser was got out 
 on the quarter, as a spring on the cable, and the ship's broad- 
 side thus brought to bear ; the barge was ordered on shore to 
 second our fire, then and not till then did the Captain give the 
 
180 
 
 order to fire, and if any impartial reader will for one moment 
 consider our situation, and the sufferings before us if we got 
 no water, he will at once feel the conviction that the loss of 
 human life which followed, was caused and fully justified by 
 dire necessity. From the length of time I had the pleasure 
 of serving under Captain , had there been in his charac- 
 ter the slightest inclination to cruelty or tyranny, I must have 
 known or seen instances of it, but his every word and action 
 were kind, as far as consistent with the very arduous duty he 
 had to perform ; many lives were lost, and it was not till the 
 wad (they were all junk wads in those days) from the bargees 
 carronade set fire to the brushwood that grew round the place, 
 and thus left them entirely exposed to our view, that they flew 
 in all directions, leaving us in possession of that blessing, a 
 run of fresh water. We had abundance to drink, to wash our 
 clothes, and the additional luxury of spruce beer, which while 
 water could be got was issued at one quart per man, per diem ; 
 those boats which could be spared were employed in surveying 
 the other parts of the island, but seldom landed as fires were 
 made at nights, no doubt as signals to the other islands. One 
 quarter watch under arms was kept all night, and in the day 
 a strict look out was kept on all their motions. Round the 
 point of the cove in which the ship then lay, was, as we were 
 informed by our boats, a large native village, where it was 
 supposed some noted Chief resided. The Captain desirous of 
 making friends with the natives, took as many men as could 
 be spared from the ship well armed, and pulled round the 
 point ; no one was visible, all seemed quiet ; we landed with- 
 out any obstruction, and walked quietly up to the village, 
 which was composed of about sixty houses. That which we 
 supposed the Chief's was much larger than the rest, and to 
 that the officers directed their steps ; it was a large shed 
 open to the Southward, a platform at the inner end of it on 
 which sat an aged man, with a cap made of feathers of 
 various colours. On our approach the old man rose, and 
 
181 
 
 began a long melancholy speech, in which we supposed by his 
 laying frequently his head on one side, that it related to the 
 late unfortunate loss of life. Beads and knives were offered 
 him, he took all with perfect indifference, and on the Captain's 
 making signs that he wished for his cap, he immediately took 
 it off, and gave it to him, for which he got a hatchet. 
 
 The man stationed to look out now ran up and said that 
 the natives were assembling in great numbers on the hill above 
 us, it was therefore thought advisable to retreat as quick as 
 
 possible. Before quitting the house, Captain touched 
 
 noses with the old Chief; on our way down, Mr. W was 
 
 separated from our party and stripped nearly naked. Arrived 
 at the sandy beach on which we had first landed, a halt was 
 ordered, the natives were very numerous, but aware something 
 in the fire-arms was destructive, they kept at a respectful dis- 
 tance. A white flag was attached to the knife of one of the 
 rifles in token of friendship, and the rifle itself stuck up- 
 right in some stones between both parties ; in a few moments 
 one of the natives separated from the rest and commenced a 
 plaintive tale, frequently pointing to his shoulders, which we 
 understood related to some one who had either been killed 
 or wounded. He appeared in his speech to work himself up 
 to a complete phrenzy, for he made one spring, seized the rifle, 
 and in one moment was off up the hill, followed by his com- 
 panions ; there as if in derision they placed the rifle, walked 
 round it, and talked to it, but in the height of their glee some- 
 thing took place to alarm them, for they all at once flew in 
 all directions, leaving the rifle to its right owners. Our 
 barge had this day been filling her own casks with water, and 
 by some neglect one of her barricoes had been left on shore ; 
 shortly after sunrise next morning one of the natives was 
 observed stealing quietly along the beach, and passed abreast 
 of the ship, looking cautiously round him, no one thought of 
 his object, but we soon saw him take up the barricoes and 
 walk back. A little before he got abreast the ship, the Captain. 
 
182 
 
 ordered me to clear away one of the long guns forward and 
 send a shot as close to him as possible without killing the 
 man ; the shot struck the coral beach only three or four yards 
 from him, and covered him with sand and dust ; to see the 
 poor fellow drop his load and run up the hill was truly 
 laughable. During our stay here nothing eatable was procured, 
 we got a good supply of water and that was all ; having heard 
 of the good living that awaited us at Otaheite, we were all 
 anxious to get there, anticipating comforts of all kinds. About 
 the middle of February, we made the land ; Osnaburgh, a 
 high island more resembling Mount Stromboli than any 
 thing I had ever before seen, and next day Chain Island hove 
 in sight. On the first view of it Tuanii and his wife did not 
 recognise it, but when once the loved spot of their birth became 
 known to them, it is impossible to describe their raptures ; 
 there they again beheld the spot where dwelt a friend or parent 
 dear. In this moment of delight they did not forget the debt 
 
 of gratitude they owed to Captain , for it beamed from 
 
 their eyes and showed itself in a thousand little ways ; when 
 the ship was rounded to they both went down the side with 
 streaming eyes. March 1st, 1826, we got sight of Otaheite; 
 owing to the calm that had prevailed all day, it was late at 
 night before we got inside the reef which surrounds the island, 
 and which forms all of its harbours. The boats of several 
 
 South Sea men were sent out to tow us in, and Capt. C 
 
 the British Consul came on board and was saluted according 
 to his rank ; the ship was secured with one of her bowers off, 
 and a stream chain fast to a tree astern, and thus she lay 
 comfortable. A great many canoes came off and the natives 
 mixed among us, each of them addressed some seaman on 
 whom he placed his fancy " you my frieny," will you be my 
 friend ; if the person thus addressed answered yes, the Otaheite 
 repeated his name and endeavoured to repeat his friend's, but 
 fearful of not knowing him again he tied something round 
 his wrist or finger by which he might again distinguish him. 
 
183 
 
 Many of our men observing their friends in search of them, 
 took off the badge and thus for once or twice puzzled them ; 
 but this did not last long, the features became known and the 
 badge useless. The man who thus voluntarily became my 
 friend, was a fine stout well made man of about thirty years 
 old, his name Ou-a-ba-da ; none of us at first knew the value 
 of their friendship, but we very soon found it out. The first 
 morning after this contract of friendship had been formed, I 
 was surprised to see him alongside in his little canoe ; I went 
 down the side when he gave me a cocoa-nut leaf basket, in 
 which was a fowl baked under ground, several fine oranges, 
 pine-apples, and a fine branch of bananas, and as a last token 
 of the power of his friendship a piece of tappa cloth with 
 about a hundred very handsome small shells, giving me to 
 understand that next day he would bring me a pig ; and in 
 this he kept his word, for early next morning I saw my worthy 
 friend laying off, and on my looking through the port he saw 
 me and held up the promised pig ; the inside was filled with 
 sweet potatoes, and from the mode of baking it none of the 
 gravy is lost ; it is tender and delightful. I was not singular 
 in my friend, all that chose it had friends who like mine 
 supplied all their wants, so that the ship's allowance of provi- 
 sions was but little cared for ; could these supplies have kept, we 
 might have preserved abundance of provisions, but the climate 
 is unsuited to the preservation of meat ; no bread was baked, 
 or flour served out during our stay at Otaheite, which was six 
 weeks and three days. After having been here about three 
 weeks I gave my friend, who had still kept up his daily sup- 
 plies, a half worn white shirt, worth not more than a couple of 
 shillings at most, with which he was delighted, and kissed my 
 hand in token of double friendship. Next day being the sab- 
 bath I obtained leave, and with another of my shipmates went 
 to one of the chapels ; it was really pleasing to see with what 
 respect and true devotion the sabbath is kept here. Any 
 who can procure a white shirt think it the ne plus ultra of 
 
184 
 
 dress; but in this numerous group there were to be seen dresses 
 of all kinds from the maro to the complete suit of white. It 
 was not uncommon to see an Otaheitan going towards his 
 chapel with a large flushing coat on, and not another particle 
 of dress. I met my friend walking to chapel with my fine 
 white linen, which having been mangled in England showed 
 a beautiful gloss ; his appearance bespoke the pride he felt. 
 
 Otaheite is without exception the finest island in the 
 Pacific ; it may be called a natural garden where every thing 
 grows without culture, and the paradise of this vast ocean. 
 One cannot err in landing on any part of it, walk half a 
 cable's length from your boat, there overhangs your head, 
 oranges, pine apples, bread fruit, and a little below that, 
 the small banana so superior to all others. Otaheite boasts 
 two sorts of bananas, both delicious in their kind, yams, 
 cocoa-nuts, and many other fruits are plenty. The bread 
 fruit is an excellent vegetable, a good substitute for bread, 
 for dinner or supper, though I do not like it so well for break- 
 fast ; it is not eatable raw, but the cooking of it is expeditious. 
 
 Some of the natives contracted with Mr M , the Purser to 
 
 supply it hot to all hands three times a day, for which they re- 
 ceived a certain quantity of duck, it was laid down in aheap as 
 cut from the tree ; a fire of dry wood was made, and forced into a 
 blaze, when at its highest the fruit is thrown into the centre of it, 
 and there it remains until the person attending it observes a 
 crack in the skin ; it is then rolled out of the fire, and with two 
 pieces of stick while hot, the skin is taken off in two pieces. 
 The fruit is then cut into four parts, from each of which the 
 pulp is cut out and the good part put into small baskets made 
 for the purpose, and thus sent on board. Corn has been 
 planted at Otaheite, but the soil is either too rich or the climate 
 too hot, as it runs up without coming to perfection. Sugar 
 cane grows particularly good ; a Mr. Bignell had the year 
 before cut down his first crop of canes, and sent in that one 
 year twenty-six hogsheads to Sydney. Rum making is en- 
 
185 
 
 tirely prohibited on the island, and if they will only continue 
 the happy decree, they will save this favoured isle from thous- 
 ands of vices and sorrows which invariably follow in its 
 train. Methinks I hear my reader exclaim ; what, a tar of the 
 old school argue against grog ! but know reader that the man 
 who writes these lines would not drink one glass of ardent 
 spirits though the empty glass were to be given him full of 
 sovereigns. The many punishments I saw inflicted on my 
 first joining the service, for crimes committed in drunkenness, 
 induced me to say, that I never while I breathe would taste 
 spirits, and thousands of circumstances have tended to con- 
 firm my resolution ; years in great numbers have gone since 
 the thread of reflection has been broken by drinking ardent 
 spirits, and I think I may safely say, it will please God to 
 continue so. In cold climates where the snow penetrates 
 through the thickest boots, and exposed to almost constant 
 wet, I have found great benefit from the outward application 
 of a very small quantity of spirits to the legs, by gently rubbing 
 it in, and especially when going on discovery, where there 
 was much ice, when my boots were wet and stockings damp, 
 I took them off and with a table spoon full of spirits rubbed 
 my legs very slowly until it sunk well into the pores of the 
 skin, then as quickly as possible put my stockings and boots 
 on ; for a few moments this produced an itching burning pain, 
 but it soon turned into a general warmth, which by a slight 
 exertion lasted for hours ; while the same quantity taken in- 
 wardly, especially when on short allowance, (which is almost 
 always the case in these voyages) produced a short excitement 
 which ended in langour, and knawing pains. 
 
 Nearly all the Island is subject to the control of the Mis- 
 sionaries, who have most powerfully contributed to the civili- 
 zation of it. A sect still remains called Tuti ourii, or black- 
 guards, who do all in their power to curb the improvement 
 of the others, but their number is comparatively few, and the 
 
186 
 
 Chiefs keep them well down. Mr. C purchased from one 
 
 of the Chiefs, one of their former Gods, to whom he said some 
 hundreds of victims had been sacrificed, and that same 
 wooden image to whom lives had been offered, was sold 
 for a knife. It is then, and it must be considered by every 
 feeling man, a happy day when Missionary labours spread 
 gospel light over this benighted part of the world, and no 
 place where Missionary exertions have been used, reflects more 
 credit than Otaheite. Not far from the place where the ship 
 lay^ was a chapel, the largest on the island ; it was built of 
 light materials, but such as they were, were the free offering 
 of the natives, and many of those who could not work, sent 
 presents of wood, and cocoa-nut oil towards the building. 
 
 In this chapel, Mr. P , (a preacher who had been above 
 
 thirty years on the island) preaches three times every Sunday ; 
 I once went with three of my shipmates to hear him, and at 
 that very moment not less than two thousand souls were 
 
 under that roof; to the Rev. Mr. P , I was indebted for 
 
 forwarding the only letter that at that time left the ship. 
 Hogs are plentiful, and from their good feeding, grow to an 
 enormous size ; little notice is taken of them, and they may 
 be said to run wild, but as every family has its own mark, no 
 one encroaches on his neighbour . 
 
 During our stay here all the sick were sent on shore for the 
 benefit of their health, and any of them who were convalescent 
 or could do any thing, were employed in making and prepar- 
 ing lim.e juice for ship's use from the vast quantities of limes 
 that grow wild. Among the sick on shore was a man named 
 
 E so subject to fits that scarcely a month passed without 
 
 his having them, and sometimes two or three in a day, so that 
 the man, however willing he might be, was literally useless, and 
 in his fits he was a most horrid swearer and drunkard, indeed 
 guilty of every thing bad in his moments of drunkenness. It 
 so happened on Sunday afternoon that myself and about twenty 
 more went on shore, the first place we all directed our steps 
 
187 
 
 was to the house used as an hospital, each had a messmate or 
 friend to enquire after ; when I got to the house the sick were 
 
 walking about in front of it j E was sitting about ten yards 
 
 from the door on the stump of a tree, and an immense overgrown 
 hog was feeding near him, I can fancy it now before me, it was 
 all black, with tusks turning up on each side of its mouth ; just 
 at that moment one of his fits came on ; my attention was 
 drawn to it by some one saying " there he goes, he is off/' I 
 turned round and saw him fall close alongside this monstrous 
 hog, who remained immoveable, steadily gazing at the man for 
 several minutes, at last its eyes gradually closed, and taking 
 a complete round turn it fell, kicked a little, and died. Shortly 
 after the man came to, and all the lads said he would be 
 troubled with no more fits, for the pig had carried them all 
 away ; months passed and no fits coming, all hands believed 
 him cured, but they returned again with redoubled force, since 
 which he died from falling out of a window when in one of them. 
 A complete refit of the ship took place, the holds were 
 cleared out, whitewashed, ship painted, abundance of fresh 
 provisions and vegetables were served out, and although we 
 had been so long on salt provisions only one decided case of 
 scurvy appeared ; our cooper was busily employed in salting 
 pork ; owing to the heat of the climate it was a difficult task, 
 but by great attention it was attended with success. Before 
 the ship was taken outside the reef, the young King, accom- 
 panied by his mother, came on board, he was then about ten 
 years of age ; great preparations had been made b/ us for 
 his reception. On his arrival on board, he was saluted with 
 a certain number of guns ; after having visite4 every part of 
 the ship he went into the cabin to dinner with his mother, 
 accompanied by such of their suite as were allowed, according 
 to the etiquette of the country, to be in their company. The 
 Queen Dowager was I think the largest and the fattest woman 
 I ever saw, she was brought down to our cutter in a sort of 
 
 N2 
 
188 
 
 four wheel cart,, drawn or rather impelled by men, and actually 
 brought the cutter down two streaks ; after dinner, of which 
 she partook freely, she came on deck, and seeing one of her 
 war canoes alongside that had some fresh fish in it, ordered 
 one of the men to bring her one up, which she eat raw, first 
 taking its head in one hand, and the tail in the other, and 
 applying her teeth to the lower part of the back fin, dragged 
 it out with all its attendant small bones, and having thrown it 
 overboard, eat the rest heartily ; such is the force of habit, 
 which even luxury and civilization cannot conquer. Next after- 
 noon two war canoes came alongside with presents for the 
 ship's company ; they were entirely filled with fruit, yams and 
 nine large hogs. 
 
 On the day previous to our sailing, a grand feast was given 
 on shore for the entertainment of officers and men ; in order 
 to please the natives, the drummer and fifer were sent on 
 shore, arid a quantity of fire works, a grand fire wheel, sky 
 and line rockets, Roman candles, &c., were set up ready for 
 the evening. The first part of the amusements, was what was 
 even then nearly abolished, dancing girls, which as they were 
 almost naked, was disgusting. Next was a spear dancer ; two 
 men entered the ring, each laying his spear before him, and 
 keeping his eye fixed on his antagonist, at the same time 
 jumping over his spear, his right hand well down ready to 
 grasp it at the slightest movement of the other ; at the same 
 time working himself up to such a degree of fury, that it 
 seemed dangerous to trust him with his weapon, every nerve in 
 his body seemed agitated ; at last each took his spear, bran- 
 dished it, pointed at his adversary, crossed and recrossed from 
 one side to the other, and at last ended from complete fatigue. 
 From one of the natives who spoke a little English, I learnt 
 that these men have been known to work themselves into such 
 a state of phrenzy, that they have thrown their spears among 
 the assembled crowd, and sacrificed a number of lives. At 
 
189 
 
 the end, the attention of the natives was called to witness 
 the fireworks; the line rockets were most admired from 
 their dipping under water,, and again rising to throw out a 
 blast of fire, and again dip. Presents of various kinds were 
 given to the Royal family, among which was an elegant 
 fowling piece, said to have cost seventy five guineas in 
 England. Next morning the ship was got outside the reefs, 
 and this day the seamen received the last visits of their friends 
 on board the ship ; I got my friend Ou-a-ba-da on board, 
 and again made him a present of another of my white shirts, 
 and about three feet of small brass wire chain, to the bite of 
 which hung a small penny medal of King George III. I 
 do not think any one thing on earth could give him so much 
 pleasure, his looks expressed his gratitude ; I saw him go 
 up the hatchway, and down the side with unusual haste, and 
 paddle to the shore ; but my wonder ceased when I saw him 
 coming back, and calling for me, presented me a quantity 
 of taro, an excellent vegetable, a few shells and a small pig, but 
 what was of more value two round balls of arrow root, which 
 weighed above sixteen pounds, and greatly aided our short 
 allowance some weeks afterwards ; except the Bermudian, I 
 think the Otaheitan arrow root is the best. About the 23rd, 
 we left the Island, the kind natives following us, until 
 their safety obliged them to leave us; I verily believe no 
 one had reason to regret our visit to the island. Their canoes 
 like the others of the South Pacific are so very narrow, that 
 it is even difficult to sit in them, but like those of other islands 
 they have two outriggers, and a fore and aft piece which effec- 
 tually prevents them from upsetting ; they will even at times 
 carry a small sail, the fore and aft piece being as long as the 
 canoe, and parallel to the keel, serves on either tack. Our 
 passage from Otaheite to the Sandwich Islands was very 
 long, as there were so many Islands to be surveyed on our 
 way; nothing material occurred during this long passage, 
 
190 
 
 which was also performed by our barge. An almost open 
 boat under the master and ten men, sailing along the beau- 
 tiful Pacific is really delightful, particularly during the still 
 hours of a middle watch ; it is said that no part of the world 
 presents so much beauty as the South sea, and I verily 
 believe it. 
 
CHAPTER XVII, 
 
 SANDWICH ISLANDS, KAMTSCHATKA MANNERS AND 
 IMPROVEMENTS. 
 
 EARLY in May the ship anchored off Dimond head, outside 
 the reefs of Whahoo, which like the last place we visited, was 
 surrounded with coral reefs; as it was not likely we should 
 stay long here, the ship remained outside the reef; here we 
 found lying several English and American Whalers, and an 
 American Northwestman outward bound. The town consists 
 of about three hundred houses neatly built, partly of stone, 
 and the upper part of the sides and roofs thickly thatched with 
 cocoa nut leaves. The house in which the young King resides 
 is built entirely of wood, is well furnished after the English 
 manner, and upon the whole kept in very good order; the 
 English and American Consuls have also very good houses ; 
 there are in this small town not less than sixteen public houses, 
 kept by English and American settlers, who have at different 
 times left ships ; one of these houses in particular surprises the 
 stranger, and almost makes him fancy himself in London, for 
 in it you see mahogany tables, flint glass decanters, and 
 tumblers, as also cane bottomed chairs ; this is called the 
 London Tavern, and in another or two are billiard tables ; 
 there are also two stores, one kept by an American, and the 
 other by an Englishman, from which may be purchased all 
 
192 
 
 kinds of English and Chinese goods ; and spirits, ales, porter, 
 &c. ; one of the worst effects of civilization is that females in 
 great numbers flock to the ships. It was by no means un- 
 common of an evening to count two women to one man about 
 our deck ; they usually came off in one of our boats or their 
 canoes, but in the morning they all jumped overboard and 
 swam on shore without betraying the least alarm at the nume- 
 rous sharks swimming about the ship ; many of them were 
 children. That they have made great progress in civilization 
 is beyond a doubt, but vice has gone on with equally rapid 
 strides, nor can the efforts of the missionaries restrain them. 
 The island is far better fortified than might be supposed ; on 
 the right of the landing place is a very good battery, contain- 
 ing about twenty pieces of brass ordnance under the charge 
 of an Englishman who has been settled there many years ; 
 there are none of them English, ah 1 foreign ; one of them a 
 twenty-four pounder highly ornamented, I supposed French, 
 for just before the vent patch was raised in letters Le diver- 
 tissant. On the top of the highest hill on the island and which 
 commands the town and a clear view of distant objects at sea, 
 is erected a signal station, and a battery of, I was told thirteen 
 guns ; the natives were at first sadly puzzled to get their guns 
 up, but some English men put them in the way of it by forming 
 a shoe to fit the gun, out of one of the canoes, and thus it became 
 comparatively easy. On this as well as the other islands 
 under the dominion of this king the national flag is five blue and 
 red stripes, and a sort of an union in the upper corner next 
 the mast. There is a passable market here where vegetables, 
 fruits, hogs, and goats, may at times be purchased, with now 
 and then a few dogs, which by the natives are deemed a great 
 luxury ; but those dogs which are destined for food are brought 
 up and fed with great attention and not allowed to run about. 
 Upon many occasions the market is taboed and during that 
 taboe not a thing comes in for sale however it may be wanted. 
 The power of the chiefs is so great that whatever they taboe 
 
193 
 
 is sacred ; if a Chief takes a fancy to any female he places the 
 taboe on her, and from that moment for a native to look on her 
 becomes a crime and probably endangers his life. 
 
 On our first visit the King was about sixteen years of age, 
 a fine youth not so dark as might be expected, Tamaahmaah 
 the second. When in undress he wore a coat exactly resem- 
 bling the uniform of a midshipman in our service, and but for 
 want of the white patch might have been taken for one ; on 
 his button was his own name with the crown in the center. 
 When dressed in full he wore the uniform of a General of 
 Artillery, and was saluted according to his rank. He had 
 there several vessels, one of them a beautiful brig of upwards 
 of three hundred tons, which moimted twenty guns, comman- 
 ded by an American named Meek, and manned by natives ; 
 he had also about one hundred and fifty of his natives dressed 
 in grey uniform with red cuffs and collars, and armed with 
 long American muskets. On our second visit to this place 
 application was made to the Captain, by the young King, for 
 the aid of our sergeant to drill his troops, which was granted, 
 and for the first four days the man gave such satisfaction that 
 the young King told him if he would go home and procure 
 his discharge and return to Whahoo, his passage out should be 
 paid, and the King would give him one thousand acres of land 
 and make him a Major over his troops with a regular salary. 
 To a man like that, risen from a plough boy, what an offer ; 
 but drink, that curse to human hopes, blasted his prospects, 
 and for several days he came off so excessively drunk that the 
 King had to beg he might not again be permitted ; thus he for- 
 feited his hopes and lost the Captain's good opinion. 
 
 While we remained here a small vessel was sent from 
 Owhyee to announce the death of the head Chief of the island 
 Caramaca Cooe ; according to custom the girls had gone on 
 shore that morning, and in the evening we were surprised to 
 see them all come on board with one tooth out in front, which 
 we found out was a customary mark of respect to the deceased 
 
194 
 
 Chief; to pne of the women I shewed that I had lost three of 
 my jaw teeth, when she clapped her hands in astonishment, 
 exclaiming mi-tie, (( so young, and lost so many chiefs." Before 
 our departure as many provisions of all kinds as could be got, 
 were procured, firewood and water complete, and as a present 
 the King sent forty small black hogs, and a quantity of food 
 for them. From many ships that had lately touched at the 
 island, a great number of men of bad character had been dis- 
 charged, and were frequently troublesome to the people, in 
 consequence of which the head Chief requested that they might 
 be taken off the island ; four of them were taken on board 
 the ship, the rest passed as American subjects, and for the 
 present escaped, but were taken off by the American schooner 
 Dolphin. 
 
 May 18th, left Whahoo, and shaped our course to Kamt- 
 schatka ; during the passage a small wound that I received in 
 my foot, at Gambler's, had broken out and the foot and leg 
 swelled to such an alarming degree, that it was feared it 
 must have been amputated, but by the time we got to land, 
 
 the kind attention of Doctor C reduced it, and the day 
 
 we entered Kamtschatka, I was again at duty. Early in July, 
 we let go our bower in the Bay of Pietro Palowski, a fine bay 
 and a Russian settlement for convicts, who are sent over land 
 for the double purpose of punishment, and trading with the 
 natives of Kamtschatka during the winter months for furs. 
 The town of Pietro Palowski, or Peter and Paul, contains 
 about three hundred houses and two churches ; the houses are 
 very comfortable, built with logs of birch, the ends well let 
 into each other, and caulked with dry moss which renders 
 them wind and air tight : each house consists of four rooms ; 
 in the middle of the house is a square brick building, three 
 sides of which contains a fire place, the fourth is an oven. 
 The tops of the houses are mostly paid over with red ochre 
 and tar, which, from the snow on the top of the adjacent 
 hills gives them a pleasing look : tjheir windows are few, and 
 
195 
 
 those are small and covered with the inside gut of the sea horse, 
 which, from its transparency and power to resist wet, serves 
 the purpose well ; the climate being so very cold produces 
 but little, but in the gardens belonging to the Governor and 
 Pastors, I observed a few carrots and cabbages growing. In 
 the garden belonging to the Governor, is a monument to the 
 memory of Captain Clark, the circumnavigator, and kept in 
 very good order ; on the top of it is a ship which acts as a 
 vane. When the snow clears away, wild celery abounds under 
 it ; there is also a sort of wild garlic among the pasture, which 
 the cattle eat, and at first to a stranger gives the meat an 
 unpleasant taste, but that is soon overcome, when the taste of 
 the meat becomes more pleasing. 
 
 The Russian settlers at Kamtschatka are friendly and hos- 
 pitable to a degree ; it is difficult to pass the house without 
 being called in to eat, and under present circumstances their 
 hospitality was 'particularly acceptable. If at any time we 
 met a Russian, however low his rank, as he approached, his 
 hand went up to his cap, and drosti brah (I greet ye well) was 
 his salutation ; if we stopped, the snuff box came out, and 
 after taking a pinch himself, he presented it to us ; they take 
 their snuff by putting it between the lower lip and the gum, 
 and there it remains for hours. Among the convicts are one 
 Englishman and an American; this Englishman was sent 
 there some years ago, as a part of his punishment he had the 
 gristle taken from his nose, which now hangs down very much 
 upon his upper lip ; when out he usually keeps it forced to 
 its former shape, with a piece of pasteboard. 
 
 The American had married a daughter of one of the settlers, 
 and lived at the small village of Awatchka, a few miles from 
 Pietro Palowski. Each of the settlers, as they call themselves, 
 has from twenty to thirty dogs of the fox breed, which though 
 small, are very strong ; those intended for the sleigh are paired, 
 having a strip of wood between their two collars, so that they 
 cannot bite each other, and when not at work tfcey are made 
 
196 
 
 fast to small poles stuck in the ground, at such a distance that 
 no two pairs can touch each other ; when they are at work, 
 each dog is allowed two dried salmon per day, but when idle 
 only one and half. The salmon fishery commences about the 
 middle of July, at which time men, women, and children are 
 employed at the fishery ; those whose youth will not admit of 
 their drawing at the line, are employed carrying the fish up 
 the beach feady for splitting. The salmon are split down the 
 back, laid on stages made of boughs to admit of a free circu- 
 tion of air to dry it for winter food for dogs, some are used 
 for the families also. Each family has its own net, and during 
 the fishery season even the pastors assist, and when the fish 
 are become quite hard they are stowed in open air houses for 
 winter. Our first visit w?s very unfortunate, for when fish, 
 or any thing else, would have been acceptable we could get 
 none, for the season was so late that the Russians themselves 
 doubted whether the fish would come in at all. On our second 
 visit, although at all times acceptable, when we did not so 
 much need it, fish was abundant ; I particularly recollect 
 while I was once hauling the seine, for that was invariably my 
 job, there was on each side of us a party of Russians drawing 
 their seine ; our first haul was abundant ; hi our seine was 
 one hundred and thirty nine very fine salmon, and a vast 
 quantity of herrings ; as the first haul of the Russians came 
 on shore, a woman came down to assist in taking the fish out 
 of the seine, she had at her breast an Infant of about nine 
 months, which she laid on the dry sea weed, with which the 
 place was strewed and commenced her work ; in the mean- 
 time the little fellow losing the breast began to fret, the woman 
 paid no attention to it for sometime until its cries becoming 
 piercing, she ran down to the net, and taking therefrom a 
 small salmon, cut its head off, and having washed the head, 
 divided it into four parts, wiped part dry in her apron, and 
 putting that piece into the little hands of the babe, he com- 
 menced sucking away at it with as much delight as one of our 
 
is? 
 
 European children would do at a piece of sugar-candy, so 
 much for habit and nature ; nor did the little creature fret or 
 cry while I remained there, which was nearly two hours. So 
 very kind were the settlers that it was no uncommon thing to 
 see them come down to our boats with one of their large rusk 
 loaves, and cutting it into slices served them out as far as it 
 would go. All their bread is made of rye flour, which when 
 new is very good. 
 
 The last Sunday we lay there it cleared up in the afternoon 
 after a rainy day ; some observations were to be made from 
 the foot of the hill on which the light beacon was standing ; 
 
 the cutter was ordered to to be manned, and Mr. E 
 
 landed with us. As I was not wanted for sometime I as- 
 cended the hill towards the light beacon, accompanied by 
 several of the boat's crew ; at the top of the hill was a house, at 
 the door of which lay several of the finest fish I had seen 
 that season. By signs and words we made the two men who 
 were there sensible that we wished to purchase the fish, and 
 offered a Spanish dollar for it, the men took the offered 
 money, put the frying pan on the fire and very soon had it full 
 of fine fish ; the rest of the men came up, and just as we were 
 sitting down to a comfortable meal of fried salmon, rusk, and 
 some wild birds' eggs, the Master, Mr. E , a man univer- 
 sally respected by all hands, came up and looking round him, 
 " hollo," said he, " what do you call this 1" he was offered to 
 partake of our fare and willingly accepted, and for my part 
 I scarce can tell when I made a more comfortable meal. It 
 must be observed that provisions were not then abundant, nor 
 is that strict line of distance to be preserved int hose ships which 
 is kept up in regular commissioned ships. Some days after 
 that while surveying at a distance from the ship, I think about 
 fourteen miles, there was about a mile and a half from the spot 
 where the boat lay, a long low point, from which the officer 
 wished to take observations. I was ordered to walk round the 
 beach and stick a pole up at the point with a flag at the 
 
198 
 
 I went away taking with me only a small hatchet very sharp, 
 and which was kept in the boat for that purpose. The beach, 
 I observed as I walked along was composed of large blue 
 stones, and about ten or fifteen yards from the water's edge 
 was bounded with large birch trees and small brushwood. I 
 had completed my work and was returning back towards the 
 boat pensive and swinging the hatchet about, when happening 
 to look upward, my eye caught sight of a large she bear and 
 cubs, very little would then have knocked me down ; I cer- 
 tainly thought myself gone that time. Father of mercy 
 thought I come all this way from home to be eaten by a 
 Kamschatdale bear ; to run was hopeless ; the bear's legs were 
 far better than mine in the water or up a tree were equally 
 bad ; but while thus deliberating upon a subject equally dan- 
 gerous and delicate, the animal quietly walked into the wood 
 leaving me a clear road to follow ; and oh ! did I not run I 
 never stopped till I got to the boat and there with my hair 
 almost upright, and the big drops of perspiration chasing 
 each other down my face, I fancied myself safe. The officer 
 who had been spying at me nearly all the time was also much 
 alarmed, but seeing the danger over made a laugh of it, asking 
 me what the bear had said to me, it struck me to say that the 
 bear had told me never to obey such foolish orders again ; I 
 however, kept in, sensible I was addressing my superiors. 
 From Pietro Palowski we got two men who had been wrecked 
 on one of the islands of the Pacific, and in a Russian store- 
 ship had reached Kamtschatka, from whence we took them. 
 July 6th. the Emperor of Russia's birth day, above one hun- 
 dred guns were fired as salutes ; we also fired a royal salute. 
 That same evening weighed and made sail for Behring's Straits ; 
 on the sixth day we got inside the capes ; the entrance is formed 
 by Cape Prince of Wales and Cape Cruscrustern, both capes 
 beingimmersed in snow, gave no great hopes of getting far north. 
 About 17th, hove to off Behring's Island, famed as being 
 the residence of the unfortunate navigator of that name, and 
 
199 
 
 where he met his untimely fate, a victim to the scurvy. The 
 remains of the houses where they came to their unfortunate end 
 are still visible, but innumerable foxes have taken possession 
 of the place, and burrowed deep under it ; even now the shore 
 is strewed with pieces of the wreck of their unlucky ship. 
 
 After a short stay, made sail, and about nine hove to off St. 
 Lawrence's Island, several bidairs of natives came off^ they 
 were the first we had seen, they did not betray any alarm, 
 and willingly traded for any thing we had ; they were stout 
 well-made men of a pleasing countenance, the face exceedingly 
 flat, of a deep olive colour ; their dress consisted of a skin frock 
 and breeches, and boots of the same which came up and strop- 
 ped round their waist and answered the double purpose of boots 
 and pockets, for all they get in barter, or any other way, they 
 put in them ; they seemed pleased with any thing given them. 
 Many of them had holes cut in their cheeks, through which a 
 piece of ivory in the shape of a double button is inserted ; 
 these holes are supposed to be cut when very young, for we 
 saw mere children with small incisions in their cheeks and a 
 light piece of wood put in to keep it from closing. The dress 
 of the females is much the same as the males, and the men 
 having no beards it is almost difficult to distinguish one sex 
 from the other. Their mode of salutation was by raising both 
 hands, joining them together over the head, and bringing them 
 gradually over the breast separating them almost at the knees. 
 Their boat or bidairs, as they are called, (but from whence 
 the name is taken I know not) are much in the shape of a 
 large whale boat, flat at bottom, composed of a strong frame 
 of light wood, over which is stretched very tight the skins of 
 sea horses, and from their being flat and light they draw but 
 little water, carry an immense weight, and paddle very fast ; I 
 have seen one of them with twenty-two people and not draw 
 quite one foot of water. 
 
 Having made as little delay as possible, made sail for Kot- 
 
200 
 
 zebue sound ; about the 25th July anchored off a high rock 
 called the Uric Rock ; the sound is large, land locked and safe, 
 and would contain almost any number of ships. The earth in 
 the low lands was but then clear of snow, the hills everlastingly 
 covered ; scarce any thing grows here but a little birch stuff, 
 barely high enough to make brooms with ; a few wild straw- 
 berries are to be met with, and a vast number of partridge 
 berries were strewed around. Close to the water's edge were 
 several villages of the natives, constructed of rough skins and 
 uncomfortable ; few of them came near the ship and those that 
 did betrayed neither fear nor astonishment ; they were friendly 
 and used the same mode of salutation as those lower down. 
 As the time of Captain Franklin's visit was uncertain, if ever 
 it took place, the Captain ordered a cask of flour to be buried 
 as deep as possible on the top of the Uric Rocks, and some- 
 thing else was buried at the east end of Chamisso, with a 
 bottle containing directions ; I was sent to the top of the Uric 
 Rock to paint in large black letters upon the stone the bearing 
 and distance of the articles buried. The spot on which I 
 stood was a perpendicular cliff of such a height that I was 
 really afraid to look down, and the rock being so rotten made 
 it doubly dangerous ; I however accomplished my task and 
 left sufficient marks to attract notice. On the low rocks round 
 the foot of that on which I stood perched, were assembled 
 great numbers of hair seals, and at various parts of the sound 
 rein deer were browzing but shy and distant. From the mo- 
 ment of our entering Behring's Straits a superior rating became 
 vacant ; it was sometime before any one could form an idea on 
 whom the Captain would bestow it, but one afternoon as I 
 stood on the gangway, it being my watch, the Captain came 
 up and taking a turn or two on deck came towards me, and 
 having pulled a paper out of his side pocket, presented it to 
 me, saying here read this and follow the instructions it con- 
 tains ; your exertions and good conduct merit my esteem. To 
 
201 
 
 a man who has a family however trifling the addition of pay 
 may be, it is welcome ; but this addition was given in a man- 
 ner so kind, so gentlemanly, that it was doubly pleasing. 
 
 During our stay we surveyed most parts of the Straits, 
 where ships might anchor, and about the last of July, sailed 
 to go upwards. The barge also having been victualled and 
 supplied with all that was likely to be useful, was sent a head 
 of the ship in order to penetrate as far up as possible, and in 
 the event of not seeing us again to rendezvous at Kotzebue 
 Sound; thus we parted company, the barge soon left us 
 behind, as we surveyed as we sailed upwards. August, I 
 think the 6th, date matters not, at 8, at night, the order was 
 given for the watch to turn in with their boots on, or in other 
 words not to undress, but to be ready at one moment's notice ; 
 the watch laid down without undressing, and being fatigued, 
 soon dropped off to sleep. When I say they were fatigued, 
 I must leave any seaman to judge of the fact, the watch 
 was spent as follows ; two hours at the wheel, or conn, one 
 hour at the lead, and the fourth hour at the gangway, fore- 
 yard-arm, or in the crow's nest at the mast head. Some 
 might escape a portion of this duty, but those were few, for 
 our numbers were very short ; but to return, our sleep was 
 not well half over when the shrill pipe of the boatswain re- 
 sounded in our ears, " all hands save ship/' Oh, the horrors 
 of such a dismal pipe ! none but those who heard it can tell ; 
 it was said that no such order had been given, and that the 
 Captain never knew any thing of it, indeed with such a mul- 
 tiplicity of duty on his mind, it would have been wonderful if 
 he could have attended to all. The ship had struck on a mud 
 bank, but it was with the most powerful exertions that she 
 was got off, nor was that accomplished till after two o'clock in 
 the morning ; our progress upwards was very slow, the irre- 
 gularity of the soundings made it impossible to carry much 
 sail ; the Strait was well clear of ice, at least there was none 
 in the middle, the edges alone were strewed with it. It was, 
 
 o 
 
202 
 
 considering all things, not very unpleasant going upwards, for 
 as our progress was slow we had a fine view of the coast of 
 Asia on our left, and that of America on our right ; but the 
 Asiatic shore was more dangerous of approach than the other, 
 being more shallow water ; we frequently had the trawl over, 
 but not a vestige of any fish was to be seen. During the first 
 watches dredges were put over, and a great number of shells 
 were got up each time, but they were all dead shells, not a 
 fish in any of them, though some of them retained their gloss, 
 which was a clear proof that fish had been in them at no very 
 distant period. We passed by the Capes Lisburne and Mul- 
 grave with little delay, and for several days after had thick 
 weather and mists. August 12th, about 10, A.M. it cleared 
 away giving us a sight of the distant lands, and a full view 
 of Icy Cape, the extent of Captain Cook's voyage, which in 
 some of the books is described as a high bluff; to me it appeared 
 a low rocky point running into the sea. It was proposed 
 by the officers, that as it was the birth-day of His Majesty, 
 a royal salute should be fired upon it, and the swivels and 
 small guns were got into the boats after dinner ; but the 
 boats had but just shoved off from the ship, when it again 
 became thick, and to prevent danger a recall gun was fired ; 
 the boats were hoisted up, and sail made on the ship : for the 
 two ensuing days thick weather continued, and our progress 
 was slow. 
 
 15th, a fine clear open day ; deer having been seen grazing 
 inland, permission was given to some of the men to go on 
 shore, to attempt shooting some. At this time of year in 
 Behring's Straits, though the midst of summer the air is 
 keen, even in the day the Thermometer being at the freezing 
 point, and seldom above it, but at night it goes down to 26, 
 sometimes lower ; the sun just dips about half-past eleven, 
 and rises again before one, and the beautiful Aurora Borealis 
 fills up the intermediate space. I was among those who went 
 on shore> and had only walked an hour or two, when the 
 
203 
 t) 
 
 weather which before had been beautifully clear, suddenly 
 became thick, and the snow fell fast ; the wind shifted, making 
 
 it dangerous to proceed or return. Mr. S , one of our 
 
 officers had kindly lent me a small French pocket compass, 
 but that was so powerfully affected, that it ceased to traverse. 
 I never during my life suffered so much as I did this night,, 
 and the next day, my mental anxiety was almost beyond 
 bearing ; my companions who thought but little, suffered less, 
 but for me I saw a protracted death in all its horrors among 
 snow, and which must inevitably have been the case had the 
 thick weather lasted ; fancy, powerful fancy, presented to my 
 view the fatal uncertainty of my family, deprived of a husband 
 and a father, and left at the mercy of the world. Sometimes 
 during the ensuing day, I almost fancied myself at home 
 with all that were dear to me, but the fairy web was soon 
 broken, and I as it were awoke to consciousness, with an aching 
 and despairing heart. During the night we felt a powerful 
 desire to sleep, but all succeeded in combating it, for we knew 
 well that to go to sleep was with a certainty of awaking no 
 more; for it is invariably the case that if persons oppressed with 
 cold, ever give way to sleep they lose their lives. Perhaps some 
 persons who may read this, may laugh at our fears as vain, 
 but had they been placed exactly as we were, with thick snow 
 and cold, and not the least appearance of its becoming clear, 
 and worse than all nothing to eat, they too would have 
 thought things hopeless ; however as in many other instances a 
 blessed and merciful providence rescued us all from our truly 
 perilous situation. During the day it cleared up, and gave 
 
 us a sight of the dear old B , in the offing. Oh, the 
 
 hopes, the joys of this moment ; for my part, reflection, which 
 constitutes man's superiority over the brute, had so absorbed 
 my faculties, that for a time I did not observe the favourable 
 change in the weather. Clouds appeared, the blue expanse 
 opened to our view, and gave us a hope of seeing ship and 
 shipmates again ; we very soon walked down to the beach, 
 
 02 
 
204 
 
 and having a boat sent for us, soon got to the ship, with my 
 mind fully made up never to volunteer on any land expedition. 
 
 Let any one who reads these lines, pause for one moment 
 ere he undertakes a discovery voyage. In these dismal 
 regions where eternal snows cover the face of nature, where the 
 voice of soothing pity was never yet heard, or the foot of an 
 European ever before trod ; there, even there the indefatigable 
 Englishman has found his way, and after experiencing toils 
 and hardships almost unequalled, he returns to his native 
 country, and sometimes reaps that reward his exertions have 
 merited from his superiors, or if forgotten retires on a scanty 
 pension to support himself and a numerous family. August 
 
 26th, died P G , master at arms, a man who by all 
 
 on board was universally respected ; he had served as a marine 
 and had stood centinel over the Ex Admiral Parker the very 
 night before his execution ; an intelligent steady man, who 
 had given up a pension, again to face the toils of the voyage, 
 for the purpose of watching over the morals of his son, a youth 
 in the ship. It was a pleasure to converse with him, for his 
 memory was retentive and his education had been liberal ; he 
 left a widow and two young children to bemoan his loss. His 
 widow continued to draw his half pay until the ship returned 
 to the Brazils, and although she was much in arrears, the Lords 
 of the Admiralty did not suffer any part of his remaining pay 
 to be stopped, but in addition to that, provided a situation in 
 the Asylum at Greenwich and placed the children in the school; 
 the mother, grateful and happy, Jkept her place till death. 
 
 For several days the boats were employed in surveying 
 round the Cape, while the ship was in the offing. Villages of 
 natives were strewed along the shore ; like those below they 
 were friendly and willing to barter any thing but provisions, 
 but of these they were particularly careful, fearing as we sup- 
 posed the approach of winter. From one however we got 
 about three hundred weight of rein deer, which was equally- 
 issued to officers and men, and supplied two good meals to all ; 
 
205 
 
 it was not, as Jack observed, distributed like prize money, for 
 all shared alike, and the only luxury that went abaft the main- 
 mast, was produced by the fowling pieces of the officers, which 
 tended much to make the ship's company satisfied with then* lot. 
 About eight miles above the Cape, as they were then re- 
 moving from the sea shore to their winter quarters, I had a 
 fine opportunity of seeing the inside of an Esquimaux dwelling, 
 or winter house ; I think few in the ship saw one, for few, if 
 any, took the trouble to go so far from the boat. There were 
 I should say, from fifteen to twenty almost forming a square, 
 but I only had time to go into one, and that I measured, it 
 was eight feet from side to side, about six and a half deep. 
 From side to side were placed rafters, much the same as the 
 roof of an English house, but with less elevation at the top ; 
 across these again were other pieces of scantling both to 
 strengthen the other and secure them ; in the middle of the 
 top was a square hole with a frame to it, much like the com- 
 bings of a hatchway. On the top of the rafters were laid the 
 hides of the sea horse, and over that, where it could be got, 
 was turf; but every where snow in abundance, so that a 
 stranger might in winter walk over the whole villages and 
 notice only a rising here and there. The square part at the 
 top was covered with a double hide and served for the purpose 
 of going in and out or letting the smoke out if required : the 
 stiff hide acted as a spring, for, as the Equimaux head 
 vanished under, it was closed and perfectly secure, the snow 
 on it adding to its weight-? so much for the outside. The 
 inside, on the ground, was thickly strewed with moss ; at the 
 sides and ends were seats left in the earth fourteen inches 
 broad, which were also covered with moss over which were laid 
 rein deer skins; the sides were also lined with rein deer 
 skins, which, from the thickness of the hair, are very warm. 
 From the centre of the roof was suspended a stone, like a fry- 
 ing-pan in shape with three holes, to which were fastened three 
 thongs of sea horse hide, by which it was suspended. In this 
 
206 
 
 stone was put a piece of whale's blubber, in the middle of 
 which a hole was cut ; in this hole a piece of moss was put 
 and set fire to, which gave a beautiful bright shining light, 
 superior to gas, and without smoke, which from its closeness, 
 warmed the house. At the sides were hung spears, bows and 
 arrows, implements of fishing or household use. On one of 
 the sides of the house was a square hole cut, in which the in- 
 habitants stowed their winter supply of food as well for them- 
 selves as for their dogs. In one corner I observed a sort of 
 tunnel which I supposed led to other houses, so that if my 
 judgement be right they may visit each other without going 
 into the open air ; other houses may differ, I saw no more of 
 them. Taking all into consideration the Esquimaux may 
 spend his long polar winters comfortably enough, for if he is 
 deprived of the luxuries of civilized nations, he knows them 
 not; they are trustworthy, mild and kind, and unlike the 
 natives of the Pacific ; honest, not the least attempt to defraud 
 having been discovered during our dealings with them. I 
 have noticed that some of the men in dealing with them had 
 paid for some article and not got it from the hurry of the mo- 
 ment or pressure of boats, but it was invariably handed up 
 afterwards. 
 
 August 21st, weighed, but such was the nature of the ground, 
 that it took every purchase we could muster to start the 
 anchor. Northward of Ivy Cape, the Strait was still about 
 fourteen miles broad and the depth from 13 J to 22 fathoms, 
 that is to say not closing the shore too much, and but very 
 little ice to be seen ; the ship still going to the Northward 
 surveying as she went. Late in August, as we stood in one 
 afternoon, we observed two trees across each other, much like 
 a St. Andrew's cross ; supposing it might be Opt. Franklin's 
 party, a boat was immediately dispatched to see what it was, 
 but on landing it was found to be a village of natives who had 
 not yet gone to winter houses ; there were about thirty huts, 
 among which I observed' one smaller than the rest, and on 
 
207 , 
 
 approaching it I found it occupied by a female ; she was very 
 aged, her hair perfectly white, and all her appearance seemed 
 to indicate approaching dissolution ; before her was placed a 
 small trough in which blubber cut in small square pieces had 
 been thrown ; the hut was barely large enough for her to 
 sit upright in. It was the general opinion that when these 
 people become old and useless or incapable of looking out for 
 themselves, they are thus fed at common charge, for this was 
 the third hut we had observed thus tenanted. 
 
 Of their mode of worship, or whether they entertain any 
 idea of a Supreme Being, we know nothing ; the only thing 
 on which we could found a belief that they did worship some- 
 thing, was, that most of them had small images cut out of the 
 sea horse's teeth, exactly resembling, and clothed like them- 
 selves. These they seemed to prize, for they seldom came to 
 view unless by accident, but even of these I brought home 
 several ; a white metal button was beyond the power of their 
 resistance. Neither did we ever find out what became of 
 their dead, for during the whole of our intercourse with them 
 I only saw the remains of a dead body, nor did I hear of any 
 one else who did. This body was laying on a long low point 
 at Kotzebue Sound, and had evidently been burnt, for the 
 bones, perfectly white, were laying on a heap of ashes; aUwas 
 perfect except the hands and feet, and of these not a vestige 
 was left. Just as we stood looking at the remains, one of their 
 bidairs paddled by apparently watching our motions, but no 
 inducement could get them to land there ; they pointed to a 
 distant place for us to go and meet them. At this time, 
 September, the days drew in fast, the thermometer fell with 
 dreadful rapidity, sea horses became more numerous, and our 
 provisions getting low. An exact survey of our provisions was 
 ordered by the Captain, which was found to be but small ; 
 we had then been sixteen months from England, it is not to be 
 wondered at that our stock was getting low although every 
 precaution had been used to preserve it. 
 
208 
 
 The very last day of our ascent up the Strait, the natives 
 came up in great numbers ; Ilittle or no difference existed 
 between these and those at th| mouth of the Strait ; friendly 
 and willing to exchange any thing they had, except eatables, 
 and of those the lateness of the season obliged them to be care- 
 ful ; white metal buttons were the best for traffic. I recollect 
 one of our officers offering several anchor buttons and small 
 pieces of money for a whalebone net used to catch wild fowl, 
 which was refused ; sometime after meeting the man again, 
 and desirous the officer should not be disappointed of his net, 
 I offered him two white metal buttons from my jacket which 
 
 was immediately accepted, and Mr. got the net ; I lost 
 
 nothing by it. At the time of our beginning to move 
 downward, the ship's distance from Melville's Island was 
 said to be less than two hundred miles and no ice was 
 visible to impede our progress. There was therefore among 
 us before the main-mast great hopes that a passage would 
 be found through the Strait and reach Melville Island ; 
 but our superiors wisely considering the case better than we 
 could do, who had no charge and but little sense, bore up, 
 uncertain of what might be our destiny even if we did reach 
 Melville Island upon our scanty allowance of provisions. On 
 our way downward we again landed to put up marks for 
 
 Capt. F , and the barge, in the event of their coming after 
 
 us ; several of the hills at which we landed and which showed 
 the face of an almost up and down cliff were composed of flint, 
 thickly mixed with coal ; there was some taken on board once 
 or twice, but no doubt from its long exposure to the air it did 
 not burn well, though by digging no doubt good coal could 
 have been got at. About the middle of September the ship 
 again anchored as near the Uric Rocks as she safely could ; 
 the first boat that left the ship was sent to examine how the 
 cask of flour which had been buried fared ; it was found laying 
 in cakes trodden down by the natives, who having watched us 
 burying it, had immediately dug it up again, tore the hoops off 
 
s 
 
 209 
 
 the cask and left the flour to moulder and decay. It was 
 gathered up, bad as it was, and given to the ship's company ; 
 no one who did not see it could form an idea how bad it 
 was, but it still made one good supper for all hands, and that 
 evening I observed that there was not fore and aft the lower 
 deck an ill tempered man, all seemed pleased ; such is the 
 effect of food even upon the mind. 
 
 Some days after our return to the Sound the cutter was sent 
 to survey a distant part of it ; as it was necessay to have a 
 long day, breakfast was had and the boat ready to shove off 
 before six in the morning ; during the whole of the day we 
 were busily employed pulling and sailing about, and at night 
 landed on a long low point for our officer to take his last 
 angles; as soon as the boat touched the sand, the officer 
 jumped out leaving a man to bring out his instruments ; there 
 was in the boat a young midshipman, I think it was his 
 very first voyage, who remaining in the boat said to me, "will 
 you carry me out, you have got your boots on ?" certainly Mr. 
 
 said I, do I not always carry you out, and at the same 
 
 time turned round for him to jump on my back ; it was a 
 shallow sand and I had some distance to carry him, and while 
 he was thus perched on my back I said to him, how much 
 
 longer is Mr. going to keep us away, it is now nearly 
 
 eight at night, and since six this morning we have had no 
 food ? (C oh, not long now said the young gentleman ;" just 
 then I set him down when looking earnestly up in my face, 
 66 poor fellow" said he stuttering, " I dare say you are hungry/* 
 and pulling from his side pocket his own small eight ounce loafj 
 
 he held it to me saying " here B eat this and then you 
 
 will not be hungry ;" struck with his generosity I refused it, 
 
 saying how could I Mr. take your bread who have no 
 
 more than myself, " but you know" said he " that Mr. 
 
 (meaning the officer) shot a duck this forenoon, which we 
 broiled and ate;" nothing would satisfy him, I took half his little 
 loaf and having eaten it, the opposite side pocket produced a 
 
210 
 
 small bottle, in which was rather more than a gill of wine, 
 which the generous boy (he was then but a boy) held to me, 
 " here" said he " drink part, but dont d d dip too deep into 
 it," and fearful that I should indeed dip too deep, held the bottle 
 to my mouth while I drank half his little all, willing in any 
 moment to share with his hungry shipmate his last mouthful. 
 Oh what a bright example, and a circumstance which though 
 it may be forgotten by him, yet remains written on my heart 
 in characters never to be erased ; he has now risen to manhood, 
 and in rank may he enjoy all the blessings his shipmates 
 wish him. 
 
 Some years after, accident threw me near Mr. father's 
 
 house, being just then paid off and my time my own, I deter- 
 mined to call and find out if the young gentleman was at 
 home ; an elderly gentleman whom I took to be a clergyman 
 met me at the door and having enquired my business, told me 
 that his son was still at sea, but finding that I had sailed with 
 him insisted on my coming in. He had not seen his son since 
 
 he had left England in the B , as he had been left abroad 
 
 just before we came home, and on that account he felt great 
 pleasure in hearing any thing relative to him. Among other 
 occurrences of the voyage I related to the father the kind con- 
 duct of his son, and as I spoke I could see thick drops chasing 
 each other down the furrowed cheeks of the venerable parent ; 
 they for the time being forgot their rank, placed me at their 
 own table, and on my leaving would have forced money into 
 my hands, which of course I refused, I would not have had 
 them suppose that I came for such a purpose. 
 
 About the l?th, one of our marines died from a wound 
 received at Gambler's Island, which had been getting worse 
 and worse, and at last terminated fatally. 'The officers knowing 
 how very timid the natives were on going near a dead body, 
 buried a cask of flour and some preserved meat as near as 
 possible to the grave for Captain Franklin ; they were aware 
 that should the natives ever see them buried and happen to 
 
211 
 
 take up the body first, no consideration would induce them 
 ever to go there again : just as they imagined, so it happened, 
 for the body and its accompaniment were buried but a few 
 hours, when the natives landed and commenced digging away. 
 The first thing they came to was the coffin ; they were sadly 
 puzzled how to open it, at last after all their efforts had failed 
 with their stone axes, one of them produced a small hatchet 
 purchased from our ship, by it the lid soon flew off, and 
 discovered to their astonished eyes a dead body. Of all the 
 strange scenes I ever witnessed I suppose this to be the most 
 ludicrous, for a moment there they stood on each side the 
 coffin looking at each other, uncertain how to act ; at last as 
 if impelled by one motive, they all ran away and went into 
 their bidair and paddled from the shore, holding as it were a 
 council among themselves, which at last ended in a deter- 
 mination to re-inter the body, for almost as suddenly as they 
 had left it, they returned to the shore, and having put the 
 lid down, replaced the coffin in the grave and left all just as 
 they had found it, and there it remains no doubt in perfect 
 safety, for no persuasion could induce them to land on that 
 place while we lay here ; it must require some strange revo- 
 lution of nature to bring it to light. 
 
212 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 KOTZEBUE SOUND, CALIFORNIA, CHINA, &C. 
 
 TIME passed fast, every day as it rolled along gave more 
 powerful indications of the approach of winter. Serious ap- 
 prehensions were entertained for the safety of the barge ; the 
 natives continued their friendly intercourse, traded with us 
 for bows, arrows, &c., in fact any thing but eatables. We 
 were employed in surveying the different parts of the Sound, 
 and procuring wood ; as we had to bake our own bread, we 
 required a vast quantity of wood for fuel. Early in October, 
 we had the happiness, one Sunday afternoon, of seeing the 
 barge come round the point ; we received her with three very 
 hearty cheers, as friends long separated and which we had 
 almost given up all hope of ever seeing again. On the 8th, 
 the barge was hoisted in ; the remainder of the day was spent 
 in filling the main deck with fire-wood in large logs ready for 
 sawing up when opportunity offered. 9th, a bitter cold day, 
 the thermometer sunk very low and the snow fell fast. ; early 
 in the morning we attempted to weigh, but before we could 
 purchase the anchor the chain gave way, by which we lost an 
 anchor and twenty fathom of cable. At 8, P. M., passed Cape 
 Prince of Wales with a heavy gale at S. E. and sea very high. 
 10, 30, P. M., shipped a sea on the larboard bow, knocked 
 in three of our main-deck ports, and let in so much water that 
 
213 
 
 the large logs floating about the decks made it dangerous 
 to be there ; it so washed about that it was found necessary to 
 scuttle the deck to let it down into the hold : such was the 
 quantity on the main-deck, and the great weight of the wood, 
 that she seemed careless of rising to the sea, and it was con- 
 sidered a time of imminent danger. Again, " all hands save 
 ship" shot a thrill of horror through our very hearts ; the 
 chain pumps were rigged, and for one hour gained nothing 
 on the water, and during that hour the fore-sail was split, 
 leaving only the bolt rope. A short time after, the main-top 
 sail sheet gave way, and the sail was soon in ribbons ; the 
 pumps now gained on the ship, and at 4, A. M., the weather 
 became more moderate, and the sea going down enabled the 
 carpenters to secure the ports. The hold was freed of water, 
 all the wood on the main-deck was hove overboard, and the 
 sudden change of the wind brought fine weather, which just 
 lasted long enough to take us to San Francisco, where we 
 anchored on the I Oth November, 1826. About eight miles 
 across from the place in which we lay, was another small bay 
 called by our people Whaler's Bay. Here three English and 
 four American whale ships were laying, come in from a cruise 
 to refresh and refit ship. With the Master of one of them our 
 Purser contracted for five tons of biscuit ; in the meantime full 
 allowance of flour was served out to all hands the very first 
 day of our anchoring in the place. 
 
 In the afternoon a Spaniard came down to the beach with 
 his horse and two large paniers ; supposing he brought fruit, 
 the commanding officer sent me to see what he had, and if 
 fruit to purchase some. I found that he had brought cakes of 
 about six ounces each, diamond shaped, about an inch thick, 
 and made from wheat and India corn flour, and montequille, 
 a sort of butter without salt. I succeeded in getting one 
 dollar's worth which were sixteen, and returned to the ship 
 highly pleased with the treat I had to give my messmates, who 
 
214 
 
 having eaten their daily allowance at breakfast, were quite 
 ready to attack my basket. On my getting on board, I threw 
 my bargain on the table, saying, " here you are lads, eat this 
 and trust to providence for to-morrow " it raised a smile on 
 all, but over eating was likely to prove more fatal than hunger, 
 for after supper three of us were in agony from having rather 
 indulged our appetite too much. Next morning I was sent 
 away in the cutter for the bread that had .been purchased ; 
 the wind was fresh and tide against us. so that we did not get 
 to the Eagle till past noon ; when the master of the Eagle 
 told me that we could have no bread that day, but advised 
 me to remain there till next morning when we could get 
 it easily ; after some moments spent in consideration, the 
 Master of the ship called me up and asked if we had had our 
 our dinner, I smiled and said, f - yes sir/ 5 though I meant no 
 all the time. The Master however saw my drift, and said, 
 " go down in the steerage, you will find something to eat 
 there;" on our going down we found all the white men, 
 sixteen in number sitting down to a yet untouched sea-pie ; 
 on seeing us the men immediately got up and bade us sit 
 down, nor would they be denied, for as they kindly said you 
 have not had such a dinner these many months, and we are 
 rolling in affluence of food ; we did eat, and doing credit to 
 their sea-pye soon emptied the dishes. In the evening they 
 gave us an excellent supper, nor would any of them lay down 
 till all of us were supplied with beds. I had collected during 
 my cruise in the South Pacific a great number of curious 
 shells, of these I had taken a large handkerchief full, and was 
 truly glad I had done so, for I was enabled to make some 
 presents to each, which though small were highly acceptable. 
 In the evening I was invited to spend a short time in the 
 cabin, and there enjoyed a glass of excellent porter; in the 
 morning by seven o' clock I was ready to shove off, and not 
 one of us went empty handed for all had a liberal supply of 
 
215 
 
 tobacco, and wherever it was possible to stow a biscuit for 
 ourselves we were allowed to put it away. 
 
 San Francisco, is a fine safe bay, with several rivers running 
 into it ; the Spaniards have several small forts, each con- 
 taining about thirty soldiers and one or two officers, and six 
 small guns. At a distance of about twenty miles are Missions, 
 consisting of a small village, partly Spaniards and partly 
 Indians, under the care of a Padre or Priest ; their business 
 is to convert the Indians to the Catholic Faith, and it is but 
 justice to say that these Priests spare no trouble or labour to 
 fulfil their duty. The Indians, particularly the young, are 
 carefully instructed to read, write, weave, shoe making, &c. ; 
 the soil is really excellent, and although it was cold and winter 
 time, mushrooms were abundant ; tiger cats of an immense 
 size are found here. Ihe servant to our naturalist while 
 shooting birds for specimens, on turning the side of a square 
 cluster of trees saw five tiger cats near him, and one of them 
 in the very act of rising to spring on him ; the man was 
 alarmed no doubt, but his presence of mind never forsook 
 him ; if it had, and he had but for one moment given way, his 
 life would not have been worth a straw ; but in a moment, 
 taking a ball from his pocket, he put it into his rifle, and with- 
 out ramming it home, merely giving it a slight blow on the 
 butt, he levelled it and killed the one that was springing at him; 
 the shot was fatal, the savage beast fell only a few feet from 
 him; it measured three feet seven inches in length, stout, 
 strong built, and a terrible set of teeth ; its skin neatly pre- 
 served is now in one of the Museums in London. 
 
 From one of the Missionaries we got a plentiful supply of 
 flour, as also as many bullocks as were required for fresh meat, 
 and to salt for future use ; good living soon made a great dif- 
 ference in our size and looks, which above eleven months 
 eight upon four had brought down very low. A large tent 
 was erected on shore for salting the meat, the cooper lived in 
 it, and hung his hammock up at one end of it ; and the beef 
 
216 
 
 which had been killed also during the day was hung up for 
 the night to purify and cool for salting next morning ; the 
 offal was thrown in a large hole just outside the tent. One 
 night a great number of jackalls attracted by the smell of the 
 offal came down from the woods, and having devoured the 
 whole of it, found their way into the tent, which was only 
 closed with canvas, and by jumping up managed to break 
 down one of the quarters, which coming down with a crash, 
 awakened the old cooper, who seeing himself thus surrounded 
 by unwelcome visitors, fired his musket, and clasping his arms 
 round a quarter of beef which hung close to his hammock, in 
 an agony of terror he became perfectly senseless, where he 
 was found by an officer, who was sent to ascertain the reason 
 of his having fired his musket. 
 
 Early in December, one of our marines, while attending 
 
 upon Mr. N , the Assistant Surgeon who was shooting 
 
 ducks, went into a pond where some wounded ducks were, 
 and getting entangled in the brushwood was drowned ; it was 
 several hours before his body was recovered. It was got out and 
 buried in a very deep grave which had been many years before 
 dug for a Lieutenant of Kotzebue's, who also died here, and over 
 whom a monument had been raised. Several Spaniards of 
 the most respectable sort attended the funeral, and each in 
 turn advancing to the grave threw a handful of earth on 
 the coffin, it being in this country a mark of great respect. 
 Although the grave was nine feet deep, on visiting it a few 
 days after, the coffin was found all to pieces, and the body gone ; 
 nothing remained save a few bones here and there strewed about. 
 
 Our barge and cutter were constantly employed in sur- 
 veying the river until Christmas. On the 24th our cutter, 
 under charge of Mr. S. was sent up to a Mission for a load of 
 calavances, which the Purser had bought from an old priest 
 that had command there ; I was sent up to act as interpreter. 
 The Mission was about thirty-two miles from the ship; about 
 half way up to it the river branched itself off three different 
 
217 
 
 ways ; at the top of one was this Mission ; the river leading to 
 it was so narrow and so shallow that we were obliged to stop 
 at an Indian village nine miles from the place, but the priest 
 expecting us had dispatched an Indian with a horse for the 
 officer. Mr. S. left me in charge with orders to make ourselves 
 as comfortable as we could during his absence, mounted his 
 horse and rode away; about sixty yards from us was the 
 Indian village ; I walked to it see if any thing was to be got 
 to keep up Christmas, but they were poor. I got nothing but 
 a few pumpkins, with a promise of some wild ducks next day. 
 In the mean time the boat's crew had got the masts and sails on 
 shore and erected a comfortable tent, and by the time I re- 
 turned, supper was ready, after which all laid down on the 
 ground. I slept like a top till four the next morning, at 
 which time I was awakened by the man, whose duty it was 
 to officiate as cook for the day, who told me if I would go 
 to the village and get a light, he would have a good break- 
 fast ready for the lads by the time they awoke. Now 
 reader I must describe my dress, and excuse me, for that 
 very dress saved my life ; over the rest of my clothing as 
 a seaman, I had a large frock made from the skin of a rein 
 deer, it was long enough when let down to cover my feet well 
 and turned up at foot buttoning all round the skirt ; at the top 
 was a hood made from the skin taken off the head of a bear 
 ears and all ; in front was a square lappel which in the day 
 time hung loosely over the breast, but at night buttoned just 
 behind the ears, leaving only the mouth, nose, and eyes free 
 for respiration, so that one with such a dress might lay down 
 
 any where and sleep warm and comfortable. Mr. S had 
 
 given eight dollars for it at Kamtschatka, and on our return to 
 more genial climes, forgot the future, and gave it to me ; fancy 
 then my figure thus accoutred, issuing from under the canvas 
 tent with a lanthorn. in my hand. I had not advanced above 
 twenty yards, when first only two or three, and then an 
 immense number of jackalls surrounded me ; I was at first 
 
 p 
 
218 
 
 disposed to think but lightly of them, but seeing their numbers 
 increase so rapidly, I grew alarmed and probably gave way to 
 fear sooner than I ought ; a few shots from the tent would no 
 doubt have sent them away with speed, but no one saw me. 
 Every moment they drew closer and closer in a complete 
 round, and seemed to look at me with determined hunger ; 
 for some moments I remained in a most dreadful state of 
 alarm. It just then occurred to me that I once heard of a 
 boy who had driven back a bull out of a field by walking back- 
 wards on his hands and feet, fortunate thought, I caught at 
 the idea, in a moment I was upon all fours, with my head as 
 near to the earth as I could keep it, and commenced cutting 
 all the capers of which I was capable ; the jackalls, who no 
 doubt never had seen so strange an animal, first stopped, 
 then retreated, and as I drew near the tent flew in all directions. 
 The men awoke just in time to see my danger and have a 
 hearty laugh at me and the jackalls ; for some months it be- 
 came a by-word if I was going anywhere, they would bid me 
 be careful of the jackalls. An experienced old Indian told 
 me some days afterwards, that but for the way in which I had 
 acted, my life would not have been worth a farthing. During 
 this evening I saw the Indians go into what they call their 
 bath, which consists of a large square hole dug in the earth, 
 across which, rafters are thickly laid and boughs of trees ; on 
 the top of which three or four feet of earth is laid; a door, like 
 that of an oven is left on one side, all the rest is completely 
 closed up ; round the inside are seats of earth raised about 
 two feet, on which the sick, the lame, and many of the lazy 
 sit. As soon as all who intend to go in are seated quite naked, 
 the fire, which has been previously laid, is lighted ; in a few 
 moments the perspiration flows freely down from all parts of 
 their bodies which they keep rubbing down with either hand, 
 and to look at them from the outside one would suppose them 
 a parcel of ghosts. As the fire burns down, the perspiration 
 ceases to flow, they wrap themselves in their blankets and 
 
219 
 
 away to their huts. After the business was well over and the 
 fire out, I went to see the place, but the air was so dis- 
 agreeable that I was glad to get out,, but covered with a herd 
 of fleas which caused me to spend a sleepless night. Christ- 
 mas, the second from our leaving England, passed, but there 
 was no English fare, the roast beef and plum pudding that 
 smokes upon the poorest boards was absent from ours ; our 
 cheer that day was meagre, but in order to make amends the 
 next morning, a message came from the mission to say that 
 owing to the festival we could get no calavances for two days, 
 but to enable us to enjoy ourselves, the Padre had sent us a 
 fine sheep, a small bag of calavances, and two bottles of 
 brandy with one of wine ; the poor sheep soon fell a victim to 
 the knife of the cook ; all care vanished. Some writer has 
 said that an Irishman half drunk, a Scotchman half starved, 
 and I feel assured that an Englishman with his belly full, will 
 face any thing, so I have ever found it. On our return to 
 the ship all was ready for sea, even the observatory was taken 
 down. On the 7th, we dropped down to Whaler's Point, our 
 dropping there proved the means of saving the life of a fellow 
 creature. 
 
 The Omega, an American Whaler, laying here had on board 
 a man who had for upwards of eight months been suffering 
 from an ulcerated leg which had got to such a state that the 
 bone was bare for seven or eight inches ; the Master of the 
 
 vessel applied to Captain B for medical aid, stating that 
 
 the man was a British subject, born in London ; but in either 
 case English or American, the Captain was not the gentleman 
 to refuse medical, or any other aid to a fellow creature in dis- 
 tress. Mr. C , on his first visit, saw that immediate 
 
 amputation alone could save the man's life, and also that the 
 
 operation could not be performed where he was. Mr. C 
 
 asked and obtained leave for the man to be removed to our 
 ship which was done, but such was his state, that no one 
 supposed he ever could get over it, he was a complete skeleton ; 
 
 p 2 
 
220 
 
 his leg was taken oft, and by the constant care of Messrs. 
 
 C and N , he very soon recovered, and by all means 
 
 in his power made himself useful ; on his leaving the ship a 
 collection was made for him among the officers and men, 
 which set him up again, and he left us truly grateful for the 
 kindness he had received. 
 
 January, 1827, weighed and made sail, and after a fine 
 passage anchored within the reefs, at Whahoo, where we found 
 an American ship, from which we got thirty-eight casks of 
 flour, and some rope, with canvas for a main course, of which 
 we stood much in need ; the Active, of Boston, came in the 
 day after us, and from her we replenished our stock of rum. 
 Sometime before our arrival the Government had purchased a 
 vessel from an American Merchant called the Chinchili; 
 this vessel was to be paid for in sandal wood, which was as 
 usual levied in certain quantities from each of the Chiefs ; in 
 consequence of which the market was taboed, and not a thing 
 allowed to come into it until the necessary quantity of sandal 
 wood was produced. 
 
 The time of cutting it is appointed by the King, and that 
 is invariably at night, but for what cause I could never find 
 out ; this time was appointed while we lay here, and the Cap- 
 tain was invited to accompany the young King to view the 
 scene ; our cutter was ordered to take the party, and it took 
 us nearly all the forenoon to get to the spot. When the party 
 took horses and left me in charge of the boat, I asked and ob- 
 tained leave to ascend the hill in the evening; the ascent was 
 painful and fatiguing, but it fully repaid me by the pleasing 
 sight that met my eyes ; there stood a vast number of men as- 
 sembled, each with a torch made from sandal wood, which 
 burns bright and clear, at a certain signal they dispersed ; each 
 taking his own way to cut his load, accompanying his labour 
 with a song, to which the whole band within hearing join in 
 chorus ; the song we understood not, but in the calm of a 
 beautiful night it was calculated to inspire delight. After the 
 
221 
 
 labour of two or three hours the wood is collected together, 
 each Chief inspecting his own lot, judging of the quality by 
 the colour and weight ; it is then taken to the water's edge 
 where it is piled end on ready for boats to take away ; the 
 people then returned to their homes, and we to the young King's 
 country house, after which I went to the boat. The people 
 who were ordered to provide for the boat's crew had an excel- 
 lent supper ready for us, consisting of baked goat's flesh, and 
 some very fine mullet not long out of the water ; we were ex- 
 tremely well treated, and after supper went to sleep on some 
 nice soft mats laid down on purpose. In the morning I was 
 ordered round to the ship with the boat leaving the officers 
 to ride round. I left the place and had just got at the outside 
 of the reef, when the wind shifted suddenly dead ashore, and 
 it blew so hard at the same time that the ship was obliged 
 to let go her sheet anchor j I would gladly have bore up again 
 and ran in, but such was the intricacy of the reef, and the sea 
 beating over it so furiously, that the remedy was worse than 
 the disease. About nine at night we got alongside the ship ; 
 during the day it was supposed that we had gone on shore on 
 the reefs and perished ; a day or two after we received a bag 
 of letters from England. Any one who has been twenty 
 months away without the slightest intelligence from all he 
 holds dear on earth, can judge of the pleasure I felt on seeing 
 four letters addressed to me in the well-known hand of my 
 wife, and on opening them that pleasure was doubled by find- 
 ing that all at home were well and only anxious for the welfare 
 of the father and the husband long absent. Although the 
 dates were old still it seemed as if conversing with friends 
 long lost. 
 
 Early in March, having completed all we could get here, 
 we got the ship outside the reef, and on the 9th, weighed for 
 Macao; on the 7^h April, entered the Typer, anchored in 
 3J fathoms ; very soon after our arrival a boat with a Man- 
 darin came alongside (as we forward supposed) to ascertain 
 
222 
 
 the purpose of our voyage, and the next day we were sur- 
 prised at the appearance of four Chinese war junks, one of 
 which anchored on each bow and quarter, but still kept 
 at a most respectful distance ; it was understood they were 
 sent there to prevent us from surveying the Typer and its 
 adjacent parts. In the afternoon our cutter was sent on board 
 of the largest which we supposed the Commodore, and while 
 the officers were busily employed in making their business 
 understood, I was equally busy in making observations on all 
 I saw ; one man seemed anxious to prevent me from getting 
 on deck, but I got up and had a fair view of the arrange- 
 ments ; from her size I should suppose her a vessel of two 
 hundred tons measurement, her decks very much rounded 
 amidships, three very heavy spars for masts without tops, caps, 
 rigging, or any such geer as is used in British ships to sup- 
 port them which seemed terribly out of proportion to t^e 
 hull, and therefore required no other support than their own 
 strength, with three lug sails made from very coarse canvas ; the 
 bow of the vessel was just six feet four above the water, while 
 the stem had two tiers of cabins built on it, and from its great 
 height above the bow made the vessel look as if she was 
 running bows under ; but whoever would describe her decks 
 must use a far superior pen to mine. It consisted of one 
 common medley of casks, tubs, boxes, ropes, &c., there was 
 scarcely one vacant spot in the whole of it. Her guns of which 
 she had eight, from the calibre appeared to be much like our 
 seventeen hundred six pounders, and were secured to the deck 
 on a sort of slide, capable of no training, very little elevation, 
 and no depression at all. With all her eight guns well manned, 
 according to their custom, I ' should consider her com- 
 pletely under the command of any of our line of battle ship's 
 launches. I walked down a ladder into what should have 
 been a mess-deck, but there it was even worse than before, 
 and I left her impressed with the idea that she was the dir- 
 tiest tub I had ever seen, particularly when compared with 
 
223 
 
 the neatness and symmetry of a British ship of war ; if they 
 intended to impress us with any thing like respect, they 
 should not have allowed us on board. 
 
 The Island of Macao is under Portugueze dominion, well 
 supplied with guns, and well garrisoned with troops from the 
 mother country. On a hill on each side, and which completely 
 commands the town, is a strong battery ; except the uninhab- 
 ited Island in the Typer, Macao is the only place where Tartars 
 were permitted to land, and even there they are looked upon 
 with a certain degree of jealousy. The town itself is inhabited 
 by merchants of almost all nations, particularly when they are 
 obliged to leave Canton, and although there are persons of so 
 many different nations, the town is very clean and well built. 
 It has a beautiful appearance from the sea, and does not 
 deceive on landing ; the houses are all chunamed outside, 
 which makes them a delicate white, without the painful bright- 
 ness of lime. Among the very lower order of Chinese traders, 
 any thing in the world is to be found but honesty, and that I 
 believe is banished to regions far away. In my little dealings 
 I purchased some crockery ware, from the stand of a man who 
 spoke broken English ; sometime after I discovered that he 
 had charged me just double the price I onght to have paid 
 for it. I returned to him, much inclined to break a small 
 portion of his ware, to make up for his roguery, but changed 
 my plan, and only taxed him with having cheated me ; the 
 fellow with all the impudence in the world, put his finger up 
 to his eye, and laughing, said " he had been to London, (Bil- 
 lingsgate,)" and I considered he had given me a very fair sample 
 of it. The only Chinese female I ever had a sight of, was at 
 Macao ; I ran a good distance to get a view of her pretty 
 little foot, but found nothing in it to repay my run ; that it 
 was small is certain, and any one who had never seen a 
 Chinese woman, would at first sight suppose them to becripples. 
 The foot itself was about the size of a child's of eight years of 
 age, more in the shape of the flat iron used by English women, 
 
224 
 
 than any thing I ever saw. The flesh of the leg had grown 
 to such a size by the contraction of the foot, that it entirely 
 over lapped the side of the shoe, making as far I could see, the 
 leg, as big below as above. Every step the poor woman took, 
 on that side her foot turned down, and she slipped on her 
 ankle, and there for the time being, rested her whole weight ; 
 her skin, sallow, dull, with most disagreeable features. Poor 
 creature, I dare say she fancied from my following her so, 
 walking just after, and then before her, that I was an impudent 
 fellow ; such was not my motive, a mere curiosity actuated 
 me. If this one could be taken as a sample of her country 
 women, I sincerely pity the men; there was none of that 
 sweet expression of countenance, mild diffidence, and speaking 
 eye, so common among the females of our happy isle. 
 
 During our survey, we landed upon nearly all the Islands 
 in the Typer ; those few that were inhabited were only thinly 
 so, but upon each of them there was a Josh-house. Now this 
 said Josh is the God of the Chinese, but to describe him is 
 impossible, for every man forms Josh after his own manner, 
 in whatever shape pleases him. I have been in some cot- 
 tages where Josh was placed in one corner of the room, in the 
 shape of a lion, with a vast number of eyes. It is invariably 
 the rule at each meal, before any one touches the food, to place 
 a part of it in an earthen dish before this Josh, but as it is 
 never eaten, after a time it is thrown into the river. The houses 
 of worship are built of bamboos, at one end of which is an 
 altar, on which is constantly burning a sort of stick, made 
 from sandal wood, called Josh's stick 5 they burn like touch 
 paper, giving a pleasing smell almost like the incense in our 
 Catholic Churches. At sunset every boat in the river burns 
 firewood, and those that can raise gongs, strike them from the 
 time the sun's lower limb touches the horizon, until he totally 
 disappears, so that for a few moments the din is horrid. 
 
 Sometime after our arrival, Capt. had occasion to go 
 
 to Canton; the East India Company's yatch was granted to 
 
225 
 
 take him. For some reason, I am not aware of, I was selected 
 to go with him ; though gratified at the idea of seeing the 
 great city, I felt less pleasure than I should have done had 
 the coxswain went, for I knew he was the person who had 
 more right to the favour than myself; but as I hold it wrong 
 to question the motives of my superiors, I went without a 
 word. The river is very fine ; large batteries erected on 
 either side at the narrowest parts, are capable, if well worked, 
 of preventing ships of any strength from passing, but under 
 present circumstances, a few of our well laid sixty-eights 
 would silence them very soon; the scenery is grand and 
 pleasing. As you ascend the river innumerable boats of all 
 kinds and sizes are moored on each side for the purpose of 
 conveying passengers or goods from one side to the other ; the 
 smaller ones are by the English called sandpans, not more than 
 ten feet long, almost flat, about four feet deep, decked over 
 with stiff rushes, over which is a tilt of the same materials, 
 which opening in the middle, drops over bow and stern, 
 leaving the deck open, or otherwise at the desire of the pas- 
 sengers. In most of these a whole family lives, father, mother, 
 daughters and all ; many of them are kept for the vilest pur- 
 poses. From such a vast number of boats, the river would 
 be impassable without danger of life, were not the rules adhered 
 to with the greatest rigour. At sunset every boat must have 
 its lanthorn of coloured paper up ; no boat dares to move after 
 dark, and with their variegated lights a stranger would take 
 it for a large city ; in the day time, in order to keep the river 
 as clear as possible, and allow a free passage to boats up and 
 down, a Mandarin boat with a gallows erected on her bow, 
 as an emblem of her authority, rows up and down the river, and 
 the moment the noted personage appears, he makes a terrible 
 stir among the smaller fry. 
 
 No description can be given of Canton, for no foreigner is 
 allowed to enter it ; the suburbs are extremely dirty, the shops 
 small ; I purchased several pieces of nankeen, at 4 shillings per 
 
226 
 
 piece, and shoes very neatly made, three pairs for one dollar. 
 I went to the English factory to buy a small caddy or two 
 of tea ; a Chinese who attended there, gave me two empty 
 caddies to fill, each was to hold two pounds; supposing 
 it a great privilege to fill my own tea, I gave the man besides 
 the stipulated price, a mace, (or sixpence half-penny) and set 
 to lustily to make my boxes hold their due proportion ; but 
 on my shewing them to the man, he looked at me with a true 
 Chinese grin, "I yah he no full/* took the boxes away and put 
 above four ounces in each of them. The Captain's business 
 being concluded, we left Canton, and on our return to the ship 
 with full allowance of all kinds of provisions, about the 2nd 
 of May we left the Typer, and about the 9th anchored inside 
 the coral reef, at the Loo Choo Islands, about one mile from 
 the town ; several boats came off with the natives, who resem- 
 bled the Chinese in every thing but roguery, and although 
 the Loo Chooans are tributary to them, they seem not to have 
 inherited their vices. 
 
 No ship had visited these islands since the Alceste and the 
 Lyra, they seemed to express great wonder at our ship ; all 
 were freely admitted and during our stay the ship was like a 
 fair, but all was conducted without noise, riot, or confusion. 
 Every morning a man came off whom we called the master at 
 arms, this personage paraded the decks all day and kept his 
 countrymen in perfect order, none seemed to dare dispute his 
 word ; whatever was wanted was brought off to the ship, bul- 
 locks, water, wood, and charcoal, like the Alceste we got all 
 free alongside. At first, landing was entirely forbidden, but 
 after a deal of pro. and con. the officers were allowed to land, 
 with each one follower to carry his instruments ; of this I 
 availed myself and following the master with his spy-glass had 
 a delightful walk on shore, but on no consideration were we 
 allowed to go near the bridge that led to the town, and if by 
 chance the officers strolled near the bridge it was immediately 
 intimated to them that they must go no further. I saw 
 
227 
 
 one officer who seemed determined to cross it, and had 
 advanced some steps on it, when the natives seeing that all 
 their endeavours to stop him were unheeded, actually laid 
 down across the bridge, thereby telling him that if he would 
 persist in going he must step over their bodies; at this the 
 officer desisted from the attempt. 
 
 We had several visits from the Chief Mandarin who was 
 received with a salute and a guard each time ; persons came 
 off to sketch the ship twice and after some trials produced a fair 
 drawing. On the coral reefs with which the island is surroun- 
 ded, some very handsome shells were collected, among which 
 were some Venus' Cars of great value. About the 16th the 
 natives wishing to give the officers of the ship a grand dinner, 
 had a house removed (it was only a bambooone) down to the 
 beach ; all were invited. An elegant table was laid out for 
 the officers and another for the men at the other end of the 
 house ; the Chief and several of the party sung or rather re- 
 cited something like a song after the manner of the country ; 
 one of our officers gave them " Arthur O'Bradley O," and all 
 joined in (e Rule Britannia." Hospitality seems to be the 
 pervading characteristic of these islanders, no one thing was 
 wanting to make it complete. About the 19th we left them and 
 on the 26th the man at the mast head reported the land, which 
 we found to be a cluster of islands to which the name of 
 Bonin Islands was given. Early next morning the cutter under 
 Lieut. B - was ordered on shore to survey and search for a 
 harbour ; the whole of the day was thus employed and although 
 many fine harbours were found, all the entrances were rocky 
 and unsafe. About 2 o'clock in despair of accomplishing our 
 object we turned the boat's head to the offing where the ship 
 was hove to about ten miles off; as the boat was going through 
 the narrow passage of one of the harbours, I was steering, 
 my eye sight was then excellent, I observed some dark object 
 on the beach which seemed to move, I pointed it out to Mr. 
 B who taking his glass took one look and said, " hard a 
 
228 
 
 port; pull in shore/' as we pulled in shore Mr. B still using 
 
 his glass, a prize by B , pull away boys ; on landing 
 
 we found the beach covered with turtle, of the very best green 
 kind. It required but little precaution to take them, for the 
 animals never having been disturbed, were not shy; one sudden 
 jerk laid them on then* backs, and they became ours, within 
 an hour forty were turned ; but it was found that fourteen 
 were as many as our little cutter could carry, and the rest were 
 turned again and allowed to plunge into deep water. We 
 found it a heavy pull to regain the ship, it was nearly mid- 
 night when we got alongside. Lieut. P looking over the 
 
 side, said " well B , what in the name of wonder have you 
 
 got the boat so deep with," " oh, it is only stone" said Mr. 
 
 B , send us the yard tackle down ; d m the stone said 
 
 Mr. P , the ship's full of it, the tackle was sent down ; on 
 
 the first hoist Mr. P seeing the welcome guests, was so 
 
 pleased that he ordered the boat's crew in to their suppers and 
 hammocks, which otherwise in the hurry would have been for- 
 gotten. Two turtle were killed that evening, the remaining 
 twelve were put on the main deck for future use. On the fol- 
 lowing day the sailors had turtle soup for dinner, it was very 
 good, for the officers gave wine to put into it, and some cab- 
 bage trees which had been found, supplied a pleasing vegetable. 
 All this day was very thick, the ship stood off and on, it not 
 being deemed prudent to near the land. Next morning the 
 weather being clear the cutter was dispatched on shore with Mr. 
 
 E to search or an anchorage ; we left the ship early in the 
 
 morning and pulling into a sort of harbour which we had not 
 before seen, our surprise was extreme on seeing an English 
 ensign Union down upon a point of land, and presently a man 
 hailed " boat ahoy" in good English, asking what boat that was; 
 
 on being informed, he said " come on shore," but Mr. E , an 
 
 experienced old seaman was too sensible to trust to his word, said 
 " no, no, let us know who you are first," upon which the man 
 told us that himself and one man more were the remains of 
 
229 
 
 the crew of the William, South Sea man, late His Majesty's 
 Ship Tyne ; that about fourteen months before the William 
 had discovered these islands, and after much trouble had found 
 out the creek where her remains now lay, and finding it a safe 
 comfortable anchorage, commenced refitting and coopering 
 the oil ; they had got on so far that nearly all the oil was on 
 deck, except a part of the lower tier of tun butts, which had 
 been replaced, when a heavy gale sprung up, such a gale as 
 none of them had ever before seen ; the sky was of a deep 
 green colour, with red streaks which terrified all on board. 
 On the second morning of the gale, a heavy shock of earth- 
 quake had so shook the island that the water had risen above 
 sixty feet beyond its usual level, and at its third and last 
 rising had perched the ship at the very top of the rock at which 
 he pointed, and there she remained until the water sunk to its 
 usual level, when the ship rolled off the rock and crushed her- 
 self to pieces, bursting a great many of her casks. Next day 
 a fourth rising of the water floated the casks, many of them 
 high among the trees ; (e now sir/' said the man, "just pull 
 round the point and satisfy yourself of the truth of my state- 
 ment ;" and on going there it was evident, for of the late 
 William scarce two planks remained together, and on landing 
 the man informed us that part of the crew had gone away in 
 a ship which had touched there a month or two after, but 
 which being full had not been able to take any oil ; the Master 
 therefore chose to remain till some light ship might come and 
 enable him to save oil sufficient to pay the men's wages and 
 his own. 
 
 Some days after, while felling a tree for building a house, 
 it had fallen on the Captain and so much hurt him that he 
 died next day and was buried near the spot on which we then 
 stood ; one of them being a carpenter, had built a neat little 
 flat bottomed boat, a small house in which they lived by day, 
 and another in which they slept ; he had also railed round the 
 
230 
 
 Captain's grave and placed a head-board there, on which were 
 cut the following lines : 
 
 " Reader, observe this verdant hillock here, 
 
 " Contains a tender husband, parent dear, 
 
 " A master kind, a friend sincere. 
 
 " The orphan's tears the widow's cries, 
 
 " Proclaim with real grief here dead he lies." 
 
 We took the two men to the ship with their little dog, and as 
 it had been the Captain's, they were doubly careful of it ; 
 one of the men acted as pilot, and by two o'clock we were 
 safe on board in the cove with our bower off and a hauser fast 
 to the very rock on which the William had stranded. The 
 observatory was landed, a plentiful supply of turtle, wood, and 
 water was procured ; on surveying, not the least vestige ap- 
 peared of their ever having been inhabited, nor did we see any 
 kind of wild animals. There seemed to have been a volcano 
 at no great distance on the islands, for the shores were lined 
 with pumice stone. Fish was abundant, and limpets were 
 found, the shells of which held above one pint ; cray-fish also 
 were in great numbers among the rocks, and very large. 
 Among the curiosities found here were some animals which 
 our officers called flying foxes ; they were about seven inches 
 long in the body, thickly covered with hair of a fine brown 
 colour, shaped like a fox, but instead of forefeet they had 
 wings of great length like a bat, from which projected five 
 very sharp claws of great strength by which the animal hung 
 itself to the trees ; one I measured was 174 inches from tip to 
 tip of wing, they only made a buzzing noise like a large 
 bee ; those that were caught were taken great care of and well 
 preserved. Not far from one of these houses the two men 
 had planted a pretty good garden, where potatoes, preserved 
 from the wreck, as also yams were growing very fine. Every 
 evening two turtle were killed for the use of the ship's com- 
 pany ; next day, from one alone I took 374 eggs of full growth, 
 leaving those not come to maturity untouched. 
 
231 
 
 The islands were taken possession of in the name of His 
 Majesty George the Fourth, and a copper plate bearing the 
 ship's name, Captain's name, &c., was left secured to a tree. 
 I believe the Captain proposed to take the men from this 
 uninhabited spot, but they refused it, stating that ships would 
 soon touch there, and enable them to save oil enough to pay 
 their wages. Early in June, the ship's company were busily 
 employed in taking down the observatory, collecting wood 
 from the wreck, catching turtle, &c. ; seventy two turtle were 
 ranged between the guns on the main deck. The men left on 
 the island had saved a plentiful supply of bread and flour, for 
 their provisions having been put in oil casks in England, were 
 water tight, and previous to our sailing they were supplied 
 with such clothing as they wanted, so that nothing that 
 could contribute to their comfort was neglected by the kind- 
 ness of our Captain. 
 
 About the 2 7th of June, after a very fine passage, we again 
 took up our anchorage in Pietro Palowski, saluted the Gover- 
 nor ; salmon this year was plentiful, and very early, but hills 
 and valleys alike, deeply covered with snow, denoted that the 
 heavy winter was not yet over. The seine was shot every day, 
 and a plentiful supply of fish procured, of which all hands 
 had abundance ; the two best remaining turtles were sent on 
 shore as presents to the Governor, and out of all the colony 
 not one but the Governor knew what a turtle was ; all were 
 astonished to see an animal so curious produce eggs. As the 
 season was fast advancing, and Behring's Straits again to 
 encounter, the ship did not lay here long, but about the 9th, 
 weighed from Pietro Palowski ; our passage was extremely 
 trying to the constitution, for one constant drizzle of rain, sleet 
 and snow, and the air piercing cold, threw many of our men 
 into the sick list. 2 7th July, 1827, Cape Cruzuston again 
 rose to our view above the horizon, but so deeply immersed 
 in snow that no person could distinguish it from its fellow hills ; 
 as at Kamtschatka, all denoted a heavy winter. As we sailed 
 
232 
 
 slowly upwards several bidairs full of natives came off with 
 articles of traffic ; all of them seemed to recognize us as old 
 friends, and clasped their hands over their heads in token of 
 joy. On seeing any men whom they more particularly re- 
 cognized, they ran to them with marked pleasure ; a one man 
 canoe came alongside, it was entirely covered with sea horse- 
 hide, leaving only one small hole in the middle at top, just 
 large enough to sit in on his heels, much like a tailor, leaving 
 the body beyond the waist above the boat, but in order to 
 prevent his getting wet in the event of the boat's capsizing, 
 whidh from its very light construction, and want of ballast, 
 it was likely to do, he was covered with a shirt made from 
 the inside gut of the sea horse, which was tied lightly round 
 the seat on which he sat ; the head was covered with a hood 
 of the same, which enclosed all the face, except the mouth, 
 nose and eyes, and being air and water proof, kept the man 
 warm and diy ; there were two paddles, one fast to the boat, 
 the other was carefully grasped in the hand, as in case of 
 turning, his immediate turning up depended a great deal 
 upon his paddle. 
 
 The natives by whom we were visited this year were not all 
 our old friends of the preceding; there were among them 
 several strange faces, the men had rather a prepossessing 
 appearance ; the forehead and indeed the whole face is par- 
 ticularly flat, the eye is small and piercing ; little difference is 
 visible in the dress of the males and females, but certainly of 
 the two, the men are best looking. Their sallow complexion 
 may in a great measure be attributed to the food they eat, 
 which is almost constantly raw, as well as the filth in which 
 they live ; they never know the comfort of a fresh water wash ; 
 that they are well acquainted with fire, is beyond a doubt, 
 for we frequently saw them with small fires, and at other 
 places the remains of it were still to be found ; it is never 
 used to warm themselves, the place is completely strewed 
 with wood, some of which have been large spars. Nothing 
 
233 
 
 could induce them to taste our food, nor would they allow any 
 one to sit by them with writing or drawing implements ; I 
 once tried to take a slight sketch of an Esquimaux Chief, 
 who sat in the stern of his bidair, but no consideration 
 could induce him to sit still. Several Officers tried with 
 little better success. Of their honesty too much cannot be 
 said, at least among ourselves, for although every thing in and 
 about the ship must have been a matter of curiosity and won- 
 der, still I never heard of any thing being lost; indeed the 
 many articles which the Captain and officers kindly gave them, 
 almost did away the chance of dishonesty. A looking glass that 
 one of our men placed before them seemed to attract the most 
 marked attention ; like the monkey they looked behind it to 
 see what could be there. We saw no person deformed among 
 them, the humpback so common in the islands of the South 
 Pacific, seems unknown here ; it was also pretty evident that 
 each man had but one wife, for it was rare to see them either 
 hunting or shooting unaccompanied by a female who invariably 
 carried the load. I have seen an Esquimaux returning from 
 hunting carrying his bow and quiver of arrows, and walking 
 leisurely while his wife was struggling under the produce of 
 the chace, which was at times exceedingly heavy. July 25th, 
 anchored off the Uric Rocks, and one of our first duties was 
 to visit the flour which had been buried last year, and found it 
 undisturbed. The barge was again fitted out and sent North- 
 ward under Mr. B , with orders to rendezvous at Kotzebue 
 
 Sound ; the ship began to wood and water, every mark that 
 
 could be left also to attract the attention of Captain F , 
 
 should he come there; all complete on the 1st the ship sailed. 
 Along the shores the ice was much thicker and in far greater 
 quantities than it had been last year, and the tops of hills, 
 capes, and headlands, were still deeply buried in snow which 
 told us that here also the winter had been very severe. 
 
 On the 6th, a few minutes after eight o'clock, while the 
 ship was in stays, she struck on her keel first, and paying off 
 
 Q 
 
934 
 
 rested on her broadside against a bank of some kind ; when a 
 few minutes afterwards it cleared away, (for it had been thick 
 all night), and we found that she was fast ashore on a bank 
 from which she had but narrowly escaped the year before, 
 and to which among ourselves we had given the name of 
 
 B y s Bank. At this time it required no whistle to send the 
 
 men on deck, all were there ready to hand, the tide was ebbing ; 
 one of the ship's bower anchors and two kedges were immedia- 
 tely got out, and every man in her exerted himself to his 
 utmost ; much of the water was started and pumped out ; our 
 anchors were of no service in getting her off. Several bidairs of 
 natives came off, who appeared sensible that something was 
 amiss, but they were not aware of the extent of our calamity. 
 Towards noon the wind rose high, and the swell increasing the 
 ship heeled over a great deal ; in this critical moment every eye 
 was fixed upon the Captain and Master, all depending (I mean 
 the men) on their superior courage and judgment; both 
 were alike firm ; not the slightest alteration could be ob- 
 served in the countenance of either ; aware of danger^ they 
 seemed fully prepared to meet it, and provided resources for 
 every necessity ; and to the firmness of the superiors alone 
 may in most cases of danger be attributed that prompt execu- 
 tion of orders, that ready and willing attendance which marks 
 the well regulated ship and respected Commander. At that 
 moment we were deprived of two very valuable officers, one 
 away in the barge and the other nearly blind. About three in 
 the afternoon the wind still increasing and sea rising fast, as a 
 last effort, sail was made on the ship, and in a short time 
 during which she beat heavily, she gave one sudden spring, 
 nearly ran over all the boats natives and all, and in a few 
 moments was in 8 fathoms, and increased it till she got to 22; 
 our people cheered, the Esquimaux clapped their hands, and for 
 a moment all was confusion ; order was soon restored, the ship 
 was again afloat. 
 
285 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 ABOUT the 1 4th, we found ourselves embayed in high ice; 
 although I had seen islands of ice on the banks of Newfound- 
 land, these appeared higher ; possibly the darkness of the 
 night, and the sleet which fell heavily just then, might tend to 
 increase their size, and the cold was piercing ; it was with 
 difficulty that we found a passage out. At that time we were 
 not within a vast distance of our last year's ascent, but the 
 ice putting a stop to our progress upwards, we bent our 
 way down towards a harbour which the barge had discovered 
 last year ; it was a fine safe anchorage, and capable of con- 
 taining an immense number of ships. Villages of natives were 
 here and there scattered around its shores; large piles of 
 drift-wood were above high water mark, some of them spars 
 of great size and length j there were some fifteen inches in 
 diameter, but whence they came, or how put there, I believe 
 puzzled all our men. At one corner of the harbour was a 
 narrow river leading upwards farther than the eye could 
 reach; the shores on each side composed of alternate hills 
 and villages ; just at the entrance of it was a village of natives 
 that were busily engaged in drying fish, most of them small 
 codfish ; they had but few salmon. Our cutter was ordered 
 upwards with the Master to survey. The river contained a 
 great number of short reaches, each turning in a different 
 
 Q2 
 
236 
 
 direction, and at each angle we found a village. At one we 
 landed to trade ; I very much wished to get a bow and quiver 
 of arrows, and seeing a man who had just returned from 
 shooting with one in his hand, I offered him a knife for it ; at 
 first he seemed willing to close the bargain, but shortly went 
 into his tent and brought another one much smaller than the 
 first which he presented me. Aware of the difference, I re- 
 fused it, and as an additional inducement, I pulled out the 
 knife and two buttons ; the temptation was too great to resist, 
 I got his bow, and we parted both equally pleased. As I 
 walked down towards the boat, I had in my hand a small 
 hatchet which belonged to one of the officers ; a woman came 
 to me with a child about fourteen months' old, wishing to 
 barter it for my hatchet, but as the hatchet was not mine, nor 
 had I the means of feeding her little one, we could not transact 
 business in that way ; had I bought her child, it certainly 
 would have been a novelty in England, which would have 
 gratified many. It is generally the case that men are more 
 charmed with novelty than with the intrinsic value of things. 
 Novelty inflames all our actions and determinations. What 
 is new or difficult of acquisition, however trifling or insignifi- 
 cant, readily captivates the imagination, and for a time raises 
 our admiration ; while that which is familiar or easily attained, 
 however noble eminent or good, passes by disregarded by the 
 unthinking. 
 
 At all the villages where we landed, the natives were friendly 
 and willing to trade without the slightest inclination to theft ; 
 we had proceeded on our excursion about eighteen miles 
 upwards, and as night was coming on, Mr. thought of re- 
 turning but before he did so he landed at the foot of a hill, not 
 far from the boat to erect a beacon on the top of it, and to 
 take a view of the adjacent country. All but myself and one 
 man left the boat; not long after their leaving me, several 
 natives came down, and, though very friendly, their numbers 
 were greatly superior to ours. I thought it best to drop the boat 
 
237 
 
 to a point at a little distance, where nothing was likely to dis- 
 turb us ; she had dropped down about forty yards when just 
 on the beach, a little above high water mark, I observed some 
 animal slowly moving along, and on nearing it, found that it 
 was a black or silver-hair fox. For sometime the fear of 
 
 alarming Mr. , who was then out of sight, kept me from 
 
 firing, but the beauty of the animal, and the hope of having the 
 skin, operated powerfully on my mind, and as my sight was 
 good, I levelled a boat's musket with swan shot, fired, and 
 laid Renard on his beam ends. The animal was scarcely down 
 when I became aware of my folly, for I observed both officers 
 and men running down the side of the hill ; at that moment I 
 felt sincerely sorry for what had taken place, for it was against 
 
 my strict orders, and if it had been his wish, Mr. E might 
 
 have had me very severely punished, but as in every case, 
 when he heard the whole story, he passed it over, and it was 
 soon forgotten ; the skin made a beautiful tippet. It was late 
 at night when we returned to the ship, and having completed 
 wood and water, on the 14th September, left the harbour 
 which the natives called Imorook, and which I believe is by 
 us named Trinity. 
 
 On the 5th, towards night, the wind freshened about 5, p. M. 
 we had just taken in the fore top-mast studding sail, when a man 
 who was unhooking the burton, slipped and fell overboard ; 
 " a man overboard," resounded from all parts of the ship, and 
 in a moment all hands were on deck. Every effort was made to 
 save him, life buoy let go, cutter lowered, but all was useless ; 
 the cutter got so near that the men could see him going down, 
 but he sunk before they could reach him. That same night 
 another man while doing something in the fore chains, slipped 
 overboard ; he fortunately got hold of the bite of the buoy 
 rope which was hanging well down, and after a good tow, was 
 
 safely hauled in ; when all was over, I said to him well S , 
 
 what did you think about just now when you were hanging 
 over your grave ? " By George," said he, " I thought the 
 
238 
 
 books were closed and I was a bankrupt ;" he was an intel- 
 ligent young man but thoughtless to a degree. 
 
 Next morning as the ship was beating into Kotzebue Sound, 
 on a low hill near the Gull Rock we observed the English 
 ensign, union down ; thinking whether it might not be Capt. 
 F 's party, our barge's crew, and the cutter was immediately 
 sent to ascertain who the sufferers were ; on landing we found 
 that it was the remains of our barge's crew ; some were missing. 
 Poor fellows they looked miserable, long beards and grief worn 
 faces ; several natives were standing by, one of them an old 
 man who had been busily employed in plundering the boat 
 after her loss, was ordered to be taken on board. Being old 
 I supposed I could lead him like a child, and stepped up to 
 him in order to bring him with me, but a moment convinced 
 me I had reckoned without my host, for finding what I came 
 for, the old man gave me one shove and sent me sprawling on 
 the ground, after which it took four of us to take him to the 
 boat ; the other natives doubtful of the intended fate of their 
 companion, bewailed his loss terribly, offering their skin frocks 
 for his release. 
 
 Of the loss of the barge I got the following account from her 
 coxswain, an intelligent young man, not long since dead ; 
 (( having got as far as we could for ice, we returned to Kotzebue 
 Sound in hope of finding the ship there, but not seeing her 
 we supposed some accident had befallen her ; our officer traded 
 with the natives for provisions, in order to secure as much 
 food for winter as it was possible to get ; a party were also 
 employed to collect wood, both for fuel and for building a 
 house. The barge was then anchored in the offing of a sandy 
 bay, on the outer edge of a shoal, a cable's length from the 
 shore, wind off the land. On the 7th, in the morning, the 
 officer landed with all hands but one man and a boy, leaving 
 orders that when dinner was ready they should make a signal. 
 During the forenoon the wind shifted in shore, but as it was 
 light, no apprehensions of her striking were entertained. 
 
239 
 
 About 2, P. M,, we saw the man standing on the fore cuddy, 
 making signals, which our officers supposing to be for dinner, 
 ordered me to take the men to dinner and return as soon as it 
 was over, but on getting on board we found that she was tailing 
 in shore and had already struck very heavily, for the water 
 was level with her cabin. The dingy and two men were sent 
 to apprise the officer of our situation, but by the time she got 
 on shore all hopes of her coming back was over ; the wind 
 had risen to a gale ; our anchor had come home ; the barge 
 had drifted broadside on the shoal, and the sea making a fail- 
 breach over her. There were then on board four men and a 
 boy ; the natives seeing our distress, launched their bidairs, and 
 three times had them turned bottom up, at last they gave it 
 up in despair; the men on board had nothing but death 
 before them, either from cold or drowning. About 4, her 
 
 casks and barrels came floating on shore ; Thomas U not 
 
 being able to swim, got her main boom and one of her sweeps, 
 lashed them together and allowed the next sea to wash him 
 off her decks, but a rope caught his foot, the spars slipped 
 from under him and he perished ; his body was picked up ten 
 
 days afterwards and buried directly. S another man who 
 
 was a good swimmer gave himself up to a heavy swell and 
 swam with all his might and had got a good footing when a 
 drawback took him away into deep water and he sunk to rise 
 no more. 
 
 Only two men and one boy remained ; these having lashed 
 the boy in the main rigging sat one on each side of the cross- 
 trees and remained there, the sea often beating over them. 
 The poor boy soon became senseless with cold and fatigue, 
 slipped through his lashings into the cabin, from which the 
 next sea took him and he never was seen again. About 2, 
 A. M. it moderated and two of the men got off in the little 
 boat ; supposing the men at her mast head dead, they cut the 
 lashing which held them, and they both dropped into the 
 bottom of the boat senseless ; they were taken on shore, where a 
 
240 
 
 keg of rum had just drifted, and were then rubbed all over 
 with spirits, and a little poured down their throats, which 
 recovered them ; the officers also kindly purchased skin 
 clothing from the natives, which under Providence greatly 
 tended to their recovery ; two men and one boy perished by 
 this unfortunate disaster. 
 
 Strange that notwithstanding the various instances of 
 mortality which we daily meet, by some unaccountable in- 
 fatuation we forget that we are born to die ; death comes 
 when least expected, and frequently, as in this case, we conclude 
 our career in the very meridian of our existence ; and while 
 we drop the sympathetic tear over the watery grave of our 
 poor bargemen, let charity incline us to throw a veil over 
 their foibles, whatever they may have been, and not withhold 
 from their memory the praise their merits claim. Perfection 
 on earth has never been attained ; the wisest and the very best 
 of men have erred ; their good actions let us imitate, and from 
 their weakness derive instruction. 
 
241 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 KOTZKBtJE SOUND, SECOND VISIT, &C. 
 
 AFTER the loss of the barge, the crew with their officer re- 
 mained in the hollow of a rock for some days ; during which 
 all that would float from her came on shore. The natives 
 were friendly, and gave them fish and deer's flesh : the officers 
 purchased skin frocks and trousers from them to clothe those 
 who had either come on shore nearly naked, or had lost their 
 clothes since. When one part of her came on shore, from 
 which the natives could extract copper or iron, they took it 
 away without once considering the dishonesty of the act, which 
 was the reason of the old man having been sent on board 
 the ship. It however strikes me forcibly, that any English- 
 man exposed to like temptation, and setting equal value on 
 the articles thus cast at his feet, would have done the same 
 thing. During the two visits to Behring's Straits, I had many 
 opportunities of observing the manners and the habits of the 
 natives, and in my little dealings with them, however small, 
 I never saw the slightest inclination to dishonesty, or ever to 
 over-reach in a bargain. I recollect well one day that the 
 cutter was laying on shore waiting for the water casks to be 
 rolled off to her, that I, by accident, dropped a tin pot over- 
 board ; the tide was flowing, and as we shortly left the place, 
 I supposed it to be lost, as it was a trifle, but the next day one 
 of the Esquimaux who had seen me drop it overboard, brought 
 
242 
 
 it to me ; impressed with a sense of his honesty, I gave it to 
 the man, who went away delighted with his acquisition. 
 
 For some days we were employed in getting such articles 
 from the wreck of the barge as could be got up, among which 
 were some small arms, a cask of pork, but damaged, and part 
 of her chain cable ; but one night the wind rose to a gale, and 
 the remains of her were washed up high and dry on the beach. 
 Again winter approached with rapid strides, the thermometer 
 sunk to 23 i ; both officers and men were anxious to quit these 
 inhospitable regions and seek more genial latitudes. Wooding 
 and watering was completed as quick as possible, and the ship 
 prepared for sea. A few days previous to our sailing, the 
 cutter was ordered to go surveying a distant part of the strait, 
 the Captain went in her. About eleven in the forenoon we 
 landed near Hutpeak, to erect a mark for Captain Franklin ; 
 about a mile and a half from it we found a large rock of a 
 French grey colour, but so thickly studded with garnets, 
 that it was impossible to number them ; few of the men saw 
 it, but during an hour that I was at the spot I took out above 
 one hundred garnets, some of them very large ; some of the 
 officers got a beautiful collection, a fine piece of the rock was 
 taken to the ship. As we sat on the beach getting our dinners 
 by a fine fire, a bidair full of natives hove in sight ; being 
 doubtful of their intentions, and considering their superior 
 numbers, the men were ordered to finish their meals as quickly 
 as possible ; which done, the boat shoved off and returned to 
 the ship. 
 
 September 29th, 1827 3 ever memorable to any of the ship's 
 company who were then on shore, when seven of our crew 
 were badly wounded and two of the natives lost 'their lives. 
 At 10, A. M., the cutter was sent on shore with twenty-three 
 small casks for water at the Eastern end of Chamisson, 
 and as it was a mere drip that ran down, it took a length of 
 time to fill even this small quantity, so that at noon not more 
 than eight were filled ; the cutter was therefore taken on board 
 
243 
 
 for the men to have their dinners, leaving two men to continue 
 filling till our return. 
 
 We had only been on board a short time when one of the 
 native bidairs came round the point, and paddled directly 
 towards the spot where our men were watering, and there 
 landed. There were in her eleven persons that we could see; 
 as soon as the circumstance was made known to the Captain, 
 he ordered the cutter to go on shore under the command of 
 an officer; supposing from what had occurred about the 
 barge that the natives might be tempted to annoy our men. 
 
 On landing, we found them busily employed in rolling 
 down the hill, and returning the empty casks, and disposed to 
 be very friendly. Our men had that morning made a fire 
 from the wreck of the barge, and some small copper nails 
 having been burnt out were laying among the ashes; the 
 natives coveted them much, but did not touch one until given 
 to them, in return for rolling a cask down. Our officer 
 not satisfied of their friendly intentions, kept making signs 
 for them to leave the spot, but they either did not for 
 some time understand or would not, for they remained for a 
 considerable time ; at last one of them the oldest in the boat, 
 tapping with his flat hand on the earth, endeavoured to make 
 us sensible that the land was his, and the sea ours, but 
 having as he supposed failed, he spoke to the rest, and all 
 went to their boat, and lay about twenty yards from the 
 water's edge, making signs of friendship, and offering arti- 
 cles of traffic. I was at some distance, but observing a 
 disturbance, and seeing the natives come on shore, and run 
 up to the rocks that bounded the sandy bay in which we 
 stood, I ran down to the boat, and was told that a musket 
 had been fired at the natives, that it was supposed one was 
 wounded, which was the cause of the present hubbub ; be that 
 as it may, while we were getting to our muskets, which were 
 laying in the bow of the cutter, a shower of arrows flew about 
 us, wounding two of our men, one of which died some months 
 
244 
 
 after, from the effects of the wound and a hot climate ; seventy 
 rounds of ball cartridge were expended. I received an arrow 
 wound in my left side, the marks of which are visible to this 
 day, and the effect I fear I shall feel to my dying hour ; pro- 
 videntially it had to go through so many articles of clothing, 
 that its power was greatly diminished. The cold I felt in 
 going off produced a numbness that made me fear their arrows 
 were poisoned, happy indeed and truly thankful to God it 
 proved otherwise; as soon as possible, the casks full and 
 empty were put into the boats, taken to the ship, and the 
 
 wounded taken the most particular care of; indeed Mr. C 
 
 never appeared so much in his element as when setting at the 
 dispensary door attending his patients. A guard boat was 
 left round the island all night, and the next day being Sunday, 
 their bidair which had been taken away the day before, was 
 returned to them and every thing in her as it was found, and 
 they soon left the island, but two less in number than had 
 landed. We began a search for the dead, and in a deep ravine, 
 between two hills, laying on the snow with their heads pillowed 
 by their bows and arrows, we found two dead bodies ; one 
 had a ball through his forehead, the other through the breast ; 
 it was a painful sight and there we left them. 
 
 The strength of their bows, and their still more powerful arms 
 which bend them is really astonishing. An Esquimaux with 
 his bow, is more to be feared than a man with a boat's musket, 
 for their mark is sure ; they bend it with ease, while I who 
 was then one of the strongest men in the ship, was obliged to 
 put one end of the bow to my shoulder, and the other against 
 a rock, before I could make it ply at all. During the day 
 not one arrow was fired, at less than one hundred yards; 
 although seven were wounded, I do not mean to infer 
 that any blame could be attached to either side ; probably 
 from not understanding us on the one side, and an over desire 
 to fulfil duty on the other, might have caused the unfortunate 
 affair which was represented in so many ways, that it was dif- 
 
245 
 
 ficult to get at the real truth for a length of time. The 
 weather was now becoming severe, and almost constant falls 
 of snow made it quite necessary that we should leave ; none 
 left with regret, or if such a sensation did arise it was at our 
 not having gone quite through the straits. On the 4th of 
 October, 1827, weighed, and beat out of the sound; it was 
 not till past midnight that the ship was clear out. Sunday, 
 6th, heavy breezes and thick mizzling rain. About 1 1, 30, 
 A. M., the masthead-man reported " thick water ahead ;" a 
 hand was immediately ordered in the chain, his first cast 
 was quarter less six, the second one, a quarter four. Only 
 a few minutes before that, the patent lead had denoted twenty- 
 two on its index. Mr. E wished to keep her right before 
 
 the wind, but the Captain differed with him in opinion and 
 ordered the ship to be hauled close to the wind, and within 
 
 ten minutes she was again in 22 fathoms. Mr. G , the 
 
 carpenter, who was at that moment doing something in the 
 cabin declared that she touched, and that he positively saw 
 her rudder rise ; such might possibly have been the case, but 
 the shock must have been very slight, had it been heavy, not 
 a soul on board would have lived to tell the dreadful tale. 
 The sea was so high that our boats would have been of no 
 use for such a number of men and the cold so severe. 
 At 4, A. M. we got out of the straits, hoping never more to see 
 the inside of them. After a fine passage on or about the 24th 
 of November, we made land, Monte Rey, Coast of California ; 
 next day came to in the bay, found a great number of vessels 
 laying here, among whom was our old friend the Active of 
 Boston, with a general cargo. From her we got some rum, 
 a messenger and other rope, and from the shore several English 
 newspapers were sent off to the Captain and Officers ; one 
 gave us the melancholy news of the death of H. R. Highness 
 the Duke of York, and another the pleasing news that Capt. 
 Franklin after experiencing great sufferings had returned to 
 England ; by this all hands were relieved from an oppressive 
 
246 
 
 weight, the dread of another visit to Behring's Straits. The 
 news when first communicated to all hands caused such an 
 uproar in the ship, that it was long before any thing like 
 order was restored, and though at a vast distance home rose 
 before our eyes with redoubled charms ; every heart beat high 
 with anticipated happiness, and we could almost in fancy 
 behold the roof where dwelt some friend or partner dear, in 
 fact we were " homeward bound/ 5 
 
247 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Our canvas spread and away we go, 
 And then huzza for England ho, 
 
 " For England ho." 
 
 OUR slight repairs, &c. being completed, about the 6th of 
 December we left Monte Rey, and in five days anchored in 
 San Blass, among several vessels found laying here was a small 
 schooner, the Britannia, of Southampton, only 52 tons regis- 
 ter, a proof of how small a vessel may navigate round Cape 
 Horn ; here a beautiful collection of shells was procured. Some 
 of the muscle shells we got measured twenty three inches and 
 a half in length; several tons of money and many bales of cochi- 
 neal were shipped on board. The cutter was busily employed 
 in watering the ship, which as she had to come a great dis- 
 tance, was an arduous undertaking for a boat of her size. 
 The place from which our water was procured was a river about 
 1 3 miles, up which we had to go ; I think it was the 1 7th, 
 that early in the morning we left the ship and proceeded 
 upwards to the watering place, when about two thirds of the 
 way up, the boat grounded nearly in the centre of the stream ; 
 the tide was fast ebbing, and at low water we found ourselves 
 perched upon a high muscle bank, on both sides of which 
 
248 
 
 there was sufficient water to float the boat ; on each side of 
 the river the scenery was beautiful, a gentle ascent of about 
 twelve feet opened on an immense plain where the land was 
 covered with verdure, and here and there a grove of tale pines 
 with a straggling Indian hut ; at the head of the river was a 
 Spanish Mission, in front of which large herds of cattle were 
 grazing. While thus waiting for the flood to make and float 
 us off, our men and myself among the number were amusing 
 ourselves on the bank, picking and cleaning the large muscles 
 with which it abounded ; some were even about to bathe when 
 our officer saw several alligators sunning themselves on its 
 banks ; his first care was to call every man into the boat and 
 keep them close, allowing no one to stir out ; we certainly had 
 seven muskets and plenty of ball cartridge, but considering 
 the thickness of the skins of these animals our muskets would 
 have been useless. Our fears in this instance were without 
 ground, for not one approached the boat, and an old Indian 
 who spoke a little Spanish, with whom I conversed that after- 
 noon, told rne that alligators seldom or ever molest men, get- 
 ting a plentiful supply of cattle that come to the water's edge 
 to drink ; it was late when we returned to the ship. 
 
 Christmas, the third since our departure from home, and by 
 far the happiest ; double allowance of spirits was served to 
 every one on board, and as far as eatables went, all were con- 
 tented. 28th, sailed in search of a vessel that had money for 
 us, and on the 6th January re-anchored in San Blass ; this day 
 one of our men died from drinking bad spirits to excess. A 
 few months previous to our arrival here a decree had passed 
 the supreme court, ordering every Spaniard, native of the 
 mother country, to quit the state within five months under 
 pain of death. Several plots having been formed against the 
 existing government, of which old Spaniards v, ere found to 
 be the head ; in consequence of this decree an old gentleman, 
 a native of Spain who possessed good property bought an 
 English brig and as per agreement paid down one third of 
 

 the purchase money ; only a few days afterwards the poor man 
 died suddenly, and under circumstances so suspicious, that 
 little doubt appeared to exist, but that he had died by poison. 
 Within a few hours the Mexican Government made a seizure 
 of the whole of his property, including the brig with it, which 
 was mostly English property; fortunately the master got 
 intelligence of the seizure before it took place, and securing 
 his money in a trunk, buried it round the point under a heap 
 of stones, where it was found on our arrival. The affair under 
 the superintendence of our Captain was soon settled, and all 
 was right again. 
 
 While surveying the bay, the lead was accidentally dropped 
 on a rock, the existence of which the oldest inhabitant was 
 ignorant of; a large buoy was moored on it and the ship's 
 name cut on the buoy. A party of men were kept employed 
 cutting wood for fuel, which was brought off daily ; among the 
 wood brought on the last evening, was the root of an old tree, 
 which the captain of the hold found too clumsy to stow away 
 among his casks ; he gave it to the ship's cook, who put one 
 end into the copper hole in order to lessen it. Scarcely had 
 the heat penetrated it, when a swarm of bees flew out of 
 ti and took possession of the galley ; all who could, fled in 
 all directions, but the poor old one-armed cook not being so 
 quick as the rest, the whole swarm settled on him ; there 
 was the poor old man standing upright and all parts of his 
 body, not excepting his eyes, covered completely with bees; 
 thus he stood for several minutes, till burning rag was applied, 
 the dense smoke from which almost smothered him, but 
 dislodged his troublesome companions, and strange to tell only 
 one stung him. Late in January, weighed for Acapulco; 
 nothing material occurred during the passage, and we anchored 
 early in March in a fine sandy bay. The town which was 
 formerly one of the best along the coast is now dwindled 
 to nothing more than a large village ; it has so long been the 
 seat of civil war, that houses, churches, palaces, all are laying 
 
 R 
 
250 
 
 in ruins, battered down by the shot and shell of the enemy, 
 from batteries erected on the tops of the adjacent mountains. 
 The inhabitants of the upper class are natives of old Spain, 
 or their immediate descendants, but the lower orders, from 
 their constant intercourse with Indians are of much the 
 same colour and filthy habits ; the females particularly have 
 scarcely one redeeming quality, sunk to the very lowest, they 
 may be seen squatted at all parts with their children slung on 
 their backs; fruit is abundant and excellent, and the climate 
 delightful. Bolivar, in an account he gives of Mexico, written 
 in Spanish, speaks of it as if peace, plenty, and independence 
 had left the shores of Europe to settle on these delightful 
 regions. His description may suit the Spaniards, but on my 
 walking round the town, I thought it horribly exaggerated. 
 On the 28th, weighed for Valparaiso, and on the 1st of May, 
 ran into the bay where H. M. S. Doris cheered our very hearts 
 with Rule Britannia, from a band, which sounded doubly 
 pleasing from our length of absence ; here again we had letters 
 from our dear friends at home. 
 
 Only a few months previous to our arrival, a shock of an 
 earthquake had destroyed nearly three hundred houses ; in one 
 spot it had left a deep chasm twenty three feet across. The 
 damage done was very great, but most of the houses knocked 
 down were either rebuilding or rebuilt, and as the calamity 
 took place early in the evening, a slight warning saved num- 
 bers of lives. On the third anniversary of our leaving England, 
 namely, ! 9th May, about 18 miles from Coquimbo, a shock of 
 an earthquake was felt on board the ship ; to all appearance 
 it seemed as if the chain cable was running fast through the 
 hawse, of course all hands rushed on deck alarmed, but some 
 officers who had before witnessed such a circumstance soon 
 set all to rights. At 5, p. M., anchored in the Bay of Coquimbo ; 
 very providentially just before we moored the ship, the word 
 was given to beat to quarters, and according to orders the well 
 was sounded at that time, and a report made to the first 
 
251 
 
 Lieutenant. On sounding, the carpenter was dreadfully 
 alarmed to find his line denote four feet eight inches of water 
 in the hold : he ran up and acquainted the first Lieutenant ; 
 the chain pumps and hand pumps were manned, while the 
 carpenter went into the hold to find the leak. After a long 
 search, it was ascertained that the cock in the ship's bottom 
 was turned, and running with full force ; how it came turned 
 no one could form any idea, for the decks had not been washed 
 that day. It was laid upon the shock of the earthquake ; be 
 that as it may, if the carpenter had neglected to sound, it is 
 more than probable that the ship would have gone down, and 
 not a soul known the cause ; as it was she was moored, and 
 all well again. 
 
 Coquimbo, a fine large bay, nearly land locked, and taking- 
 all its qualities into consideration is far superior to Valparaiso ; 
 the town of La Terena which skirts the bay, has from the sea 
 a beautiful appearance, but like most towns hereabouts, it has 
 its full share of filth. Of all the boats we had yet seen, if they 
 could be called boats, those of Coquimbo were the most 
 curious ; they are made of four seal skins sewed to each other 
 in pairs, endways, and so secured by sewing every part from 
 which air could escape, that they are made buoyant to a great 
 degree ; the two pair of skins are laid side by side and secured 
 by two cross pieces ; on this, one, two, and sometimes three 
 persons will sit, with baskets of fruit, eggs, bread, &c. A 
 pipe made of very flexible skin is put into one end of each 
 pair, to which is attached a smaller bone tube ; should the 
 sitters find the air escaping, and themselves getting down 
 towards the water on either side, they have only to put the 
 tube in the mouth and blow away ; the skins fill and they find 
 themselves high out of the water, and capable of using the 
 paddle again. During our stay, these Balsas supplied us with 
 fruit, &c. ; I might several times have taken a passage on 
 shore in one of them, but I considered myself too near home 
 to tempt any of the numerous sharks that inhabit the bay. 
 
 R2 
 
252 
 
 In this place, the Mexican mining company have a smelting 
 house from which the copper is shipped in foreign bottoms. 
 Some days after our arrival I was sent on shore on duty, and 
 on landing addressed myself to a respectable looking Spaniard 
 for some information I required, who after having given it me 
 entered into conversation, chiefly about the ship and her 
 voyage. There was standing at some distance, but near 
 enough to hear what passed, an English gentleman, whom 
 from having seen him on board, I soon recognized as a Mr. C , 
 agent to the company; I took no notice but walked on 
 some distance, when on looking round I observed him fol- 
 lowing me; supposing he wished to ask some question I 
 
 slackened my pace, when Mr. C addressing me, said 
 
 "you speak Spanish very well young man," not very Sir, 
 but just enough to make myself understood ; ah, continued 
 he "this is the country that would just suit you, and here 
 your services would be well paid ; I wish I had you here, 
 what do you say, will you stay with me ; I will insure you 
 thirty eight dollars a month, and an Indian to wait on you/' 
 
 I considered for one moment, whether Mr. C was or was 
 
 not trying me, but finding him in earnest, and fearful he might 
 suppose that I for one moment wavered, I slewed round 
 and looking at him firmly said ; are you aware sir that I 
 
 belong to that discovery ship ? " Oh yes 3 ' said Mr. C , 
 
 " but in an hour I will send that Indian with you to a place 
 which all the men in the navy could not find, even if they 
 dared to seek you." I feel much inclined to doubt sir, said I, 
 
 if Captain would like to hear you use such language to 
 
 one of his men ; in one word sir, I have a family in England 
 who are expecting me with the deepest anxiety, and with 
 equal affection I desire to see them, add to which I have four 
 years pay due, I could not on any terms consent to your pro- 
 posal. Capt. has been to me more than a friend ; a debt 
 
 of gratitude binds me to him by ties nothing can break ; he 
 has ever treated me with particular kindness, I could not 
 
253 
 
 repay it by such base ingratitude as to leave him now. " You 
 
 are a curious fellow," said Mr. C , " but here is a dollar 
 
 for you, say nothing of what is past, and upon consideration 
 should you change your mind, go to the smelting house." 
 
 Two days after Mr. C dined on board the ship, and 
 
 seeing me, cast at me a penetrating look, which seemed to 
 say, I hope you have held your tongue. 
 
 One Sunday I obtained twenty-four hours leave ; there were 
 about twenty who obtained the same privilege, but our objects 
 were different; I changed my clothes and proceeded into the 
 country ; I had walked about four miles when I overtook an 
 elderly gentleman whom from his costume I knew to be a 
 native of old Spain ; for some moments we walked close to 
 each other, at last I made some slight observation on the 
 beauty of the weather, and from thence sprung a conversation 
 which seemed pleasing to him. A mile from the place of our 
 meeting we arrived at a neatly white washed cottage, which 
 he informed me was his habitation, and requested me to walk 
 in ; I did go in, and, for the dwelling of a Spaniard, was really 
 surprised at the cleanliness of all around, in fact it may have 
 been taken for the house of a person of the middle rank in 
 England : reader, I wore not then the garb of a common sea- 
 man, or I could not have gained admission into such company, 
 as I sought to cultivate. The old gentleman introduced me to 
 his daughter and an antiquated old maid, whom he called 
 his sister, and who with all the airs of a girl of eighteen, was 
 nevertheless very kind and good tempered. Fruit, wine, cakes, 
 and cheese were laid upon the table, I was pressed to eat, and 
 after my long walk did ample justice to the cheer. All were 
 delighted to find an Englishman who could speak their tongue, 
 and above all tell them something about old Spain. How 
 strongly implanted in the human breast is the love of home ; 
 while talking of Seville the old gentleman actually shed tears. 
 
 To a man enclosed for years within wooden walls, such 
 society as I was then in is truly pleasing, but when a lovely 
 
254 
 
 female is added to its number it is delightful. Time passed 
 unobserved, I rose to go, when the old gentleman putting his 
 hand on my arm said, "stop, pray do, we have just formed a 
 pleasing acquaintance, and we part thus soon ; now tell me 
 truly when must you be on board?" to-morrow at noon said I, 
 well then be a Spaniard for once, stop under my roof and such 
 as it affords we will give you, and thank you for your society ; 
 and to-morrow I will give you a horse, and an Indian to lead 
 you to the landing place ; Theresa too joined her persuasions ; 
 who could resist, I could not, and for the first time from my 
 leaving my own dear little hearth, I enjoyed the luxury of a 
 feather bed. 
 
 I never could account for it, but a short time in pleasing 
 company suffices to set me at ease and make me feel at home ; 
 a ramble in his well planted garden, and a friendly chat quite 
 unreserved, made us as well known to each other as if we had 
 been years together ; coffee and cakes were brought in, the 
 guitar followed, and although I have no ear for music, the 
 tones seemed sweet ; it was late when we separated for the 
 night, and when we did so it was as friends long known. 
 Before breakfast the next morning the old gentleman was 
 busy pruning a vine that grew luxuriantly in front of his cot- 
 tage, and covered with its leaves the upper part of the house ; 
 after a little talk he pointed to the remains of a monastery 
 about a mile off, which he said he would take me to after 
 breakfast if I chose to go ; adding it was but a short walk and 
 the ladies would accompany us. An Indian woman came to 
 say breakfast was ready ; the table was well set out, there was 
 no tea, but excellent coffee, fish fried, beefsteaks, new bread, 
 wine, and fruit ; upon the whole it is what a Frenchman would 
 rail un dejeune a la fourchette and well calculated to raise the 
 spirits of any of John Bull's sons. From the conversation 
 which passed during breakfast, I gathered that the old man 
 was not rich, but possessed a sufficiency to live respected 
 and independent, and his distance from the town where there 
 
255 
 
 was no high road, made society scarce, and when obtained 
 pleasing. 
 
 When breakfast was over it was proposed to go to the Casa 
 de San Juan ; it was merely the wreck left by an earthquake 
 some years before ; one end of it had been completely rent to 
 the ground, in consequence of which the Nuns had been 
 removed to some more secure retreat. It was not however left 
 desolate ; even in its dilapidated state, a few monks were still 
 living within its walls, who if one may judge from the look of 
 their reverences, lived well, and certainly our reception proved 
 them willing to share the good things they possessed ; they 
 led us to all parts of the building, some of which were barely 
 safe ; here we saw the cells formerly occupied by the Nuns, 
 only nine feet by seven, a small space for a woman to live in ; 
 plenty of room for meditation certainly, but little for walking. 
 The chapel was entire and kept in good order, the altar piece, 
 a representation of our Saviour in the arms of the Virgin, was 
 I think the finest I ever saw ; it had been executed by an 
 Italian, purchased at an immense price and presented to the 
 chapel by an old female devotee who was very rich. In the 
 course of conversation with an old monk, I asked him if 
 he did not find his life pass away drearily without female 
 society ; playfully tapping me on the shoulder, he said " and 
 how know you that such is the case," oh I beg pardon said 
 I, and was silent. On my return to the cottage, I had less 
 than three hours to spare, and, as I deem it a great folly for 
 seamen to break their leave, as it not only injures them in the 
 opinion of their officers, but prevents future indulgence, I 
 prepared to go, but nothing could induce the family to part 
 with me until I had taken some refreshment, and promised, 
 if it was possible, to visit them again. At the door a horse 
 was ready, and an Indian on another to guide me, and bring 
 the horse back. Now though I have been riding so many years 
 on a wooden horse, one of flesh and blood annoys me terribly ; 
 rather, however, than shew my want of knowledge, I mounted 
 
256 
 
 the animal, who sensible I was not his proper rider, carried 
 me but a little way, took to capering, and at last fairly ran 
 from under me, leaving me to follow at leisure. The Indian 
 soon brought him back, but I was determined never to risk 
 my neck on his back again, so walked the rest of the way. 
 On quitting him, I gave the Indian a few pieces of money, 
 value about one shilling, for which he appeared thankful, and 
 went away highly pleased. I then went to the house of an 
 Englishman who worked for the company, and having re- 
 sumed my seafaring dress, packed my gentleman's dress in a 
 handkerchief and hastened on board, where I arrived in good 
 time, and the first of those who had gone on leave. 
 
 That, by assuming a dress, I was not entitled to, I had done 
 wrong I am ready to acknowledge ; but whom had I injured ? 
 none, only improved myself and obtained admission into com- 
 pany such as suited my ideas. In all this, there was nothing 
 criminal ; how often in the course of life may we observe, that 
 under the guise of dress, the greatest villain, who has probably 
 for years been plotting against the lives and properties of his 
 fellow subjects, obtains access into the most respectable 
 circles of society with perfect security, while a man every way 
 his superior, in mean clothing, passes unnoticed to the grave. 
 From my first joining the service I never went on shore on 
 pleasure without changing my dress, and never in one instance 
 was I likely to suffer for my disguise, if such it could be called. 
 
 Many years ago while serving in a flag ship in the Mediter- 
 ranean, it being the carnival, one of the greatest festivals of 
 the year in Malta, and a time for masquerading ; myself and 
 a young man, who was then only an A. B. but now holds a 
 respectable rank in the service, agreed to go to the masquerade ; 
 we were both on forty-eight hours leave, and therefore had 
 sufficient time to enjoy ourselves and the expence but trifling. 
 It was rather late when we applied for dresses ; those that 
 would have suited us were all gone, none remained but sailor 
 and soldier's uniforms, and one domino ; of course to rig as 
 
257 
 
 a soldier never entered my head, and as no alternation pre- 
 sented itself, we both agreed to take the naval uniform, though 
 mine was by far too grand ; I would gladly have exchanged it 
 for one with less bullion ; as it was we both determined to act 
 " gentlemen" for the night. 
 
 Thus equipped, we paraded the room and streets, taking 
 care to avoid those whom we supposed to be our officers. Our 
 enjoyment certainly came up to our expectations ; it was laugh- 
 able to see the mistakes that took place, some females in 
 masks, addressing us as either brothers, friends, or sweethearts. 
 
 About eleven, most of the masks had left ; of the few that 
 remained, one in the habit of a Turk, closely masked, came 
 up to us and addressing himself to me, began conversing, and 
 wished to persuade me he knew me well as an old friend, and 
 kindly invited me to drink Sherbet with him. This of course 
 we declined, for just at that moment we discovered that our 
 
 new friend was a Mr. G , an officer of marines attached 
 
 to our own ship ; of course we both endeavoured to retreat, 
 but as no fair plea offered, we had to remain above an hour, 
 
 when at parting Mr. G still supposing us friends, invited 
 
 us to breakfast with him at Severio's, then one of the first 
 coffee houses in the island ; thus for a time ended our cruise. 
 Our leave ended, we returned to the ship, and in a few days 
 it was forgotten, or if ever brought to recollection, it was 
 only to smile at our freak. Not so with my companion, he 
 happened to drop some hints, which reaching the ears of 
 
 Mr. G , he sent for me and asked me a great many 
 
 questions, and from my answers could not but be convinced 
 that I was one of those whom he had so kindly invited to 
 
 breakfast. Supposing his dignity hurt, Mr. G went to 
 
 the Captain and made a serious complaint of the whole. It 
 was on a Sunday morning, just as the church bell was tolling. 
 Immediately after church, the Captain sent for me and asked 
 me if I was at the masquerade last carnival and what dress I 
 wore. Capt. S was passionate to a degree, but when 
 
258 
 
 cool, would hear reason ; I would not, if I could, have deceived 
 him, so commenced from the beginning, and stated the whole 
 affair; when I told him the uniform I wore, he could not 
 
 suppress a smile, and I concluded by stating that Mr. G 
 
 had forced himself into our company and invited us both to 
 breakfast, but that as our leave was expired, we thought it 
 best to decline the kind offer. The Captain considered for 
 a moment, and turning to me with a countenance as serious 
 as he could put on, said, " NOW listen to me gents, if ever 
 Mr. G invites you to breakfast again, and you think pro- 
 per to disappoint him, by I will give you four dozen." 
 
 I bowed and went below ; I saw Mr. G soon after who 
 
 gave me a look, it would be difficult to interpret : thus ended 
 the first, I trust I may say last visit to such a place. 
 
 But to return to Coquimbo, the inhabitants, like those of 
 the neighbouring parts, are half Spaniard and half Indian. 
 While on duty on shore, one day I saw the lady of the Mexi- 
 can Agent standing at her door ; I had heard several persons 
 say that she was the handsomest woman in the States , I 
 passed close to her and thought the same. Her person was 
 beyond description ; about a quarter of an hour afterwards I 
 passed by again, the lady was still there, but ah, how altered, 
 she was then smoking a vile paper cigar, and firing the smoke 
 out through her nostrils ; in one moment all ideas of beauty 
 vanished. What an employment for a beautiful woman. 
 
 June 1st, left Coquimbo to go round Cape Horn ; the season 
 was bad, and the weather severe, but we got round very well ; 
 however on the 6th July, off the coast of Brazil, we fell in 
 with what is called a pampero or sudden gale, which lasted 
 eight hours, and kept us under bare poles. About 9, A. M., I 
 was securing a gasket, which was nearly adrift on the main 
 yard-arm, when pulling too hard it gave way, and before I 
 could recover myself, it threw me off the yard ; I fell into a 
 cutter on the booms, her canvas cover broke my fall, and I 
 found myself in the boat's bottom almost unhurt ; another 
 
259 
 
 wonderful preservation and proof of the watchful care of a 
 kind providence. 
 
 About the middle of July, the ship anchored in Rio ; with 
 what different feelings we entered the harbour at this time ; 
 we had now been above three years from England and were 
 homeward bound once more. 
 
260 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Oh joyful hour, when to our longing home 
 
 The long expected time at length draws nigh ; 
 When the first sound goes forth we come, we come, 
 
 And hope's impatience quickens every eye. 
 Never had man whom Heaven would heap with bliss. 
 More glad return, more happy hour than this. 
 
 OLD QUARTERMASTER. 
 
 JUST at this time a serious disturbance had taken place be- 
 tween the inhabitants and some Irish troops, lately enlisted ; 
 our anchor was scarcely down, when a signal was made for 
 all our marines to land, (a goodly number, we had thirteen) 
 but they were to accompany those of the Ganges, as also 
 those from several French ships lying here. It apeared that 
 an officer of rank, belonging to the Brazilian service, had been 
 sent to Ireland to recruit men, and had, by permission, en- 
 listed a considerable number, who were to serve exactly in the 
 same manner as the Militia in England; for some time the regu- 
 lations agreed upon were observed, but at last an order arrived 
 that a certain number of these troops were to be enrolled in 
 each of the black regiments under the crown ; this proved a 
 
261 
 
 terrible blow to Paddy Bull, who little expected such an in- 
 fringement on his articles of service ; a hasty consultation 
 was soon held, and instead of submitting to the order, they 
 all rushed into one of the batteries, got full possession of it, 
 and turned the guns upon the City. For two whole days the 
 uproar was indescribable, trade ceased, the shops were closed, 
 and the town almost deserted; in the mean time repeated 
 
 interviews took place between the English Resident, R. G 
 
 Esq. and Don Pedro, at whose intercession the affair was 
 settled, and all arrears of pay, and a free discharge given 
 them with a vessel to convey them whither they wished to go. 
 Numbers of lives were lost, but to the very great exertions of 
 the Ambassador may be attributed the safety of the town, 
 and thousands more, for there were then one thousand Aus- 
 trian troops there, whose time of service had expired, and who 
 being dreadfully in arrears of pay, would gladly have helped 
 to pay themselves ; the officer who had enlisted them was cut 
 to pieces, and report said that 250 lives had been lost. 
 
 Our refit having been completed, and the Ambassador on 
 board, on the 3rd of August, 18 , the ship was towed out 
 of harbour, by the boats of the English and French ships 
 laying in Rio, and after a fine passage, on the 26th September, 
 18 , the chain again rattled through the hawse, and the 
 anchor went down at Spithead, after an absence of three years 
 four months and seven days, it being thirty one months since 
 the date of our last letters. I never in my life recollect 
 having experienced such anxious feelings as I felt that day ; I 
 was then in sight of home, without knowing what might be 
 the news I should get ; however my anxiety was soon relieved, 
 for about an hour after the anchor was down, a respectable 
 waterman came alongside with a letter to the Captain, which 
 having delivered, he came to me, said, fe pray is not your name 
 
 B ?" Yes, said I, ee well then, two hours since I saw your 
 
 family in good health ;" thank ye, said I, will you take some 
 grog ? and putting a case bottle of rum before him, said there 
 
262 
 
 drink what you can, and take away the rest ; happy accents 
 to hear after such a trying voyage, that all were well ; I some- 
 times even now see the man, and look on him with gratitude. 
 In the afternoon I saw my family, for about one hour. Dis- 
 patches arrived for the ship to go to Woolwich, we went round 
 and having got our powder out, the ship was lashed alongside 
 the Athalian, and on the 17th October, we were paid off. 
 Before I left the ship, the Captain called me into his cabin, 
 and presented me with a written certificate of good conduct, 
 &c., desiring me to meet him at the Admiralty the next day. 
 
 I did so, and was presented to Mr. -, a near relation of 
 
 the Captain's ; the Captain saying, " here R is the man I 
 
 spoke to you about ;" ef very well/' said the gentleman, " I 
 will not forget him," but memory will at times prove treach- 
 erous ; I never heard a word more of it. 
 
 I was at that time still suffering severely from a wound got 
 in Kotzebue's Sound, and therefore glad to take a few weeks 
 rest ; though the period must necessarily be short, for the sum 
 I had to take was not very great, having received six months 
 advance. Early in November, I met a Lieutenant who was 
 entering men for the Coast Blockade, set up for the pre- 
 vention of smuggling, he asked me if I should like to join it, 
 saying he thought it would just suit me ; sensible how much 
 superior a ship of war was to a merchant ship in my present 
 rank, I accepted the offer, and on the 5th November was on 
 
 the books of the H , and after ten days leave, myself and 
 
 eighteen more were sent round to her, and very soon after 
 all ranked up before the Captain, who asked each one in turn 
 several questions as to seamanship, servitude, &c., warned us 
 that any one who rigidly obeyed his orders was sure of reward, 
 as those who acted otherwise were of punishment ; there was 
 in his language a certain open plainness that no one could 
 misunderstand ; it was the blunt unvarnished word of truth, 
 and as I afterwards found, any one who liked might be very 
 comfortable ; and even in this very arduous duty I should have 
 
263 
 
 been contented, but from the effects of my wounds, particu- 
 larly the one in my side, which was almost constant pain to 
 me, and seemed to knaw my very vitals. 
 
 My first appointment was to take charge of the harbour at 
 Little Hampton, where my only duty was to board all boats 
 and vessels that came in ; it was only tide work, and to sit in 
 a boat was comparatively easy. During my stay at this place, 
 a great many French vessels came in ; some of them driven 
 in off the fishing grounds by foul weather, others under the 
 guise of bad weather, came in for smuggling; these were 
 searched, but all as yet, had been found with only ballast or 
 fruit, eggs, &c. About Christmas, the first winter of my 
 being on the Blockade, as it was called, one fine morning, a 
 French Chasse Maree was seen standing in towards the har- 
 bour's mouth. My little boat was manned to go and board 
 
 tier ; as I was going down to the boat I met Lieutenant A , 
 
 then the divisional officer, who having the inspection of four- 
 teen watch houses, among which was ours, was a great man 
 among us. Seeing me hurrying down to the beach, Mr, 
 
 A said to me " well B , are you going to talk French 
 
 to this Frenchman ?" No, no sir, said I, a Frenchman never 
 gets a word of French from me on this service, till 1 see it 
 serves my purpose, but surely not in this case, for by a still 
 tongue, important information may be procured; thus we 
 parted. On getting on board, I saw three men on her deck, 
 the master was at the helm ; I addressed him in English with 
 " I wish to see your papers," which he not understanding called 
 a man from forward to interpret, on which the master went 
 down, brought them up, and putting them in my hand said, 
 " les voila mon ami" not choosing to understand him, I said 
 nothing, and kept the papers topsy turvy, which the master 
 observing, said to the man, ee he has got them bottom up, and 
 then I suppose he will search the hold," to which the man 
 replied " c'est egal, we have nothing in now" laying particular 
 emphasis on the word, now ; ah, thought I, you either have 
 
264 
 
 had, or will have, and from this altered my plan of searching 
 the vessel, and merely contented myself with lifting up the 
 hold, without even entering his cabin. Seeing how little I 
 troubled him, he said to his interpreter " c'est la un bon gar con" 
 desiring him to offer me some brandy, which of course I re- 
 fused, but allowed each of the men in my boat to take a glass. 
 I returned to the shore, and stated to my officer the whole 
 
 affair. Mr. A seemed perfectly satisfied, and told me to 
 
 keep a good look out for his coming again ; sometime after he 
 did return with above two thousand pounds worth of brandy, 
 silks, tea and tobacco, but about a week before, I had been 
 removed to Bognor. The Custom house boat got the prize. 
 
 The effects of heavy walking soon affected my wounds, and 
 within a few weeks of my arrival at Bognor, I was entirely 
 laid up. In May the Surgeon finding me unable to perform 
 the arduous duty of my station, requested that I might be 
 sent to the Griper where I could sit in a boat and of course 
 have less walking. I was accordingly sent there, and was 
 soon joined by my family, and here for some time I was 
 pretty comfortable having them with me ; but again my 
 side rendered me unfit for duty, and after a course of medicine 
 
 and the greatest attention from Mr. W , the Surgeon, as 
 
 also from Mr. C , the Commander, it was found necessary 
 
 to send me to the frigate for survey. To a person in my then 
 state of health, with such a distance to travel, it was a heavy 
 undertaking ; however I was allowed when walking, to do so 
 slowly, and where it could possibly be done, a boat was sent 
 with me to the next station. It was late in December when 
 I got to the ship, and a few days after all the Surgeons 
 attached to the ship were assembled to consult on my case, 
 when it was decided that nothing but undergoing an ope- 
 ration could give me ease from the almost constant pain I 
 suffered. On the 23rd of December, 18 , the operation of 
 Moxa was performed on my side by the late much respected 
 Doctor B -, assisted by several others ; it burnt twelve 
 
265 
 
 minutes and some seconds, and Doctor B gave me credit 
 
 for bearing it with more firmness than any one he had ever 
 seen ; my mind had been fully made up for it a day before, 
 and although the pain was intolerable, I never moved. For 
 about a week all sense of feeling was lost, but from that period 
 my health gradually recovered, and although I lost much of my 
 strength, I have never been so bad since, though still suffering 
 at times. I have frequently thought that totally abstaining 
 from spirits, tended greatly to my recovery ; however, I may 
 be situated, no inducement shall force me to drink it ; still 
 total abstinence is a system I would not enforce at sea, for 
 nothing is so likely to cause disturbance on board a ship, and 
 if ever it is to be done, it must be by almost imperceptible 
 degrees ; still, if men in general, knew the comforts which 
 flow from a constant state of sobriety, and the benefit of an 
 unbroken thread of reflection, I think many would try it ; and 
 to such I would say, that as I never taste spirits, so I never 
 feel the need of it. To be sensible of what you are about, and 
 ready to perform any duty, imparts a force of mind that mis- 
 fortune cannot depress sobriety is a friend at home; an 
 introduction abroad; and in society an ornament. I have 
 sometimes heard men say, what are you to do in bad weather, 
 without something to support you and cheer your spirits ? To 
 that man I would say, that I have shared in every climate, the 
 heat and the cold, hunger and thirst, with a temper as un- 
 ruffled as any one in the ship ; but I have observed that for 
 an hour after the grog was served out, men were ready to fly ; 
 the duty was easily performed, but at the expiration of that 
 hour, the thermometer had again fallen to its former level, 
 perhaps below it ; and it would have required another gill to 
 stimulate them to extra exertion, particularly on short allowance 
 of provisions, for then spirits act with double force. 
 
 In July, 18 , I was deemed convalescent, and sent to 
 Bear's hide watch-houses as an easy station, from whence I was 
 twice removed to other watch-houses equally so. It was 
 
 s 
 
266 
 
 the policy of Capt. M , never to allow any one to remain 
 
 in one place long enough to form an acquaintance, or endanger 
 their taking bribes ; and a very judicious idea it was, for even 
 in a short time offers were frequently made to me, who not 
 having any money, was likely to accept them ; but by a speedy 
 removal, the effects of bribery were done away with. Only a 
 short time before the breaking up of the Blockade, a cir- 
 cumstance occurred which shews the benefit of noting down 
 events as they pass ; it is what I have done daily from the 
 commencement of my seafaring career, and to those little books 
 I owe this volume, as also many other benefits. But to pro- 
 ceed ; I was stationed not far from Brighton ; the cliff was per- 
 pendicular, and all over the station nearly 138 feet high, except 
 one single gap, about one mile and a quarter West of the watch- 
 house. A smuggling boat had some weeks before got 40 tubs 
 of foreign spirits up the cliff; this had been done by means of 
 a light swinging derrick, the heel of which shod, with iron, was 
 easily driven in the spongy soil, so as to bear the weight of 
 two tubs, which was all they risked at one time. The men 
 had evidently been disturbed, for they left two tubs at the 
 foot of the cliff, which I picked up next day ; all would have 
 been well, had the smugglers themselves kept a quiet tongue, 
 (for we supposed the tubs picked up to have drifted from 
 some sunken raft,) but they made a boast of their exploit in 
 a public-house, where a custom-house officer was sitting, 
 and by him soon conveyed to the collector, who, anxious to 
 find out where the tubs had been got up, offered a reward, and 
 got information of the exact spot and time. 
 
 One morning we were greatly surprized at a sudden visit 
 of the Captain ; he was not expected, and when he was, great 
 preparations were made ; for although every thing was in good 
 order at all times, double attention was paid when the Captain 
 visited us. After having been in the officers' quarters for 
 above an hour, both parties then came to the men's mess-room, 
 where we stood, fully aware that something was amiss, but not 
 
26/ 
 
 sensible of the extent of what we had to dread. The Captain, 
 with very significant looks, addressing me, said, e( well 
 my man, you have done a bad job for yourself, for a num- 
 ber of tubs have been got up on your station, and the 
 officer recollects the night well, and that you had the watch at 
 
 the time." Mr. and myself kept alternate watches, so 
 
 that the blame rested on one of us, but I was determined the 
 saddle should lay pn the right horse, and if innocent, that I 
 would not tamely submit to be disrated with all the et ceteras 
 
 attendant on it. I therefore begged to know if Capt. 
 
 knew the exact time, and on being informed in the affirmative, 
 I told the Captain that as I never had kept a watch, or 
 stationed, or removed a man without noting it down, If I 
 
 were the guilty party, the book would be sure to tell. Mr. 
 
 seemed rather alarmed ; the book was not expected, and when 
 brought, gave the following account of the night in question ; 
 " P. M. fresh breeze S. W. and rain. At 6, I relieved the watch, 
 stationed the men, the officer having examined the arms. At 
 9, shifted stations. At 12, 22, relieved by the officer, nothing 
 on the move." Now this having been regularly written every 
 day before, and since, up to the present, there could be no 
 forgery ; and as the work had been done, at 2, 30, A. M. it was 
 beyond a doubt that at the time I was sound asleep in my 
 hammock, for in that service men went to bed to sleep. No- 
 thing could be plainer, I was fully (I think honourably only 
 applies to officers) acquitted, the officer had a word or two said 
 to him in public, and all went on as before. 
 
 This winter had been very severe ; heavy gales mostly from 
 N. E. to S. E. and thick weather. During one of the long- 
 winter nights, a brig from Boston, North America, to London 
 with a valuable cargo, was in the thick weather, driven on 
 shore under a cliff to the Westward of Newhaven. It was 
 late when the moon rose, but by its light we got a sight of 
 the stranded vessel, just under a high cliff. Providentially the 
 water was pretty smooth, no boats could however get to her. 
 
 s2 
 
268 
 
 At the distance of a mile or two that valuable invention, 
 Manby's apparatus was kept, always ready for use in a light four 
 wheeled wagon. A short time sufficed to bring it to bear. 
 I fired the howitzer, the first shot fell a head of the vessel. 
 
 I had not then had my education in the E , but the second 
 
 fell across her stays, between the masts, and carried with it the 
 line ; some on board understood how to use it, for they 
 hauled the lines in, the jack stay was set up, the cradle sent 
 along, and by this means thirteen persons were saved. Some 
 days after, the vessel was floated into Newhaven A present was 
 sent from Lloyd's, amounting to 18s. 6d. per man. Justice 
 must speak in the highest terms of Capt. Manby's invention ; 
 twice I have seen it used, and both times with perfect success. 
 At the early part of this year orders were received to prepare 
 for paying off the Blockade, to restore it to the Preventive 
 service. As there were a vast number more men than could 
 go round in the ship, the two cutters were employed in taking 
 them to Portsmouth ; fortunately I was in the first lot sent 
 round, I say fortunately, for it proves how small a circumstance 
 may affect our whole lives. Such an immense number of 
 petty officers let loose all at once, and but one ship in want of 
 hands, did away all hopes of getting a rate in her ; a Mr. 
 M commanded the cutter, and we had a long passage. One 
 day about dinner time, I observed that the men were gone 
 down to their dinners ; I went to the man who was steering, 
 put my hand on the tiller, and said, I will take her if you like 
 
 while you get your dinner. The man looked at Mr. M , 
 
 who was walking the deck, as much as to say shall I do it sir, 
 which I observing, said, I am used to these sort of craft sir ; 
 
 not a word had yet passed Mr. M s lips, soon afterwards he 
 
 said " let him have her Martin ;" I took the tiller, the man 
 forgot to return, and I remained till past four o'clock, and 
 thought nothing of it ; there is something so pleasing in steering 
 
 a little craft, making her obey your every motion. Mr. M 
 
 ordered me to be relieved ; that night we anchored at Spithead. 
 
269 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Some men read books, as Post Boys travel, merely for dispatch. 
 
 OLD QUARTER MASTER. 
 
 To my attention in steering the cutter, I owe three years 
 comfort in the best, and smartest ship in commission since the 
 
 peace, I mean the A . Two days after we were ordered to 
 
 attend the Dock-yard to receive our pay ; waiting on the Hard 
 
 to get into the Yard, I observed Mr. M walking arm in arm 
 
 with the first Lieutenant of the A , I also took notice that 
 
 they observed me; presently both walked up, and Mr. 
 
 W said " do you want a ship my man," I answered yes 
 
 sir, if I could get my own rate ; Mr. W said Ci I will insure 
 
 it to you in that ship," pointing to the A ; meet me at 
 
 2 o'clock on board. I did so, saw Captain P , who without 
 
 one question put me on her books as quarter master, telling 
 me that as I was well known to the men just paid, he wished 
 me to go on shore, and enter as many as I could recommend. 
 At noon next day I went alongside with thirteen such fellows 
 as are seldom picked up in twenty four hours; all were 
 accepted, and the Captain giving me a sovereign, ordered me 
 to be victualled on shore for twenty-one days, and during that 
 period I entered sixty-seven men, a circumstance I think Capt. 
 P never forgot. 
 
270 
 
 In June, a numerous squadron assembled at Spithead to 
 commence an experimental cruize in the Channel. Sailed early 
 in July, and did not return to the anchorage till late in August, 
 during which time every evolution of which a ship, or a ship's 
 company is capable, of was performed, and with an activity 
 and precision seldom equalled, and highly gratifying to the 
 respective Commanders. It surely must impart great pleasure 
 to the breast of a Commander of a ship of war, who as it were, 
 sovereign of a little wooden world, sees his ship superior to all 
 the others in her evolutions. On the 8th of September, in 
 consequence of the Coronation of H. M. William IV, double 
 allowance of spirits was issued to every man on board the 
 squadron, and I believe throughout the services. About noon, 
 on the 10th, as the anchor was at the bows for another cruize, 
 
 a telegraphic dispatch ordered the P and A to proceed 
 
 to Lisbon, to protect the British Merchants and their immense 
 property in that quarter, amid riot and civil war, which was 
 then only in its infancy. 
 
 On the 22nd, both ships anchored in the Tagus ; it is impos- 
 sible to describe the then state of the city; Pedro the Ex 
 Emperor of the Brazilian Empire had assembled a consider- 
 able force at one of the Western Islands, as also several ships 
 under command of Admiral Sartorius, and on our arrival it 
 was hourly expected that he would make a descent on Lisbon, 
 Oporto, or St. Ubes. The Miguelite Government were busily 
 employed in fortifying every place that might be supposed 
 accessible to the invaders, but in spite of all their efforts, spies 
 crept in and undermined several of their undertakings ; the 
 persons mostly suspected were monks. There were also officers 
 of superior rank in the army ; among those who fell victims of 
 suspicion, was the Colonel of the 4th Cacadores, who with one 
 of his sons was shot, while another of his family was sent on 
 board a frigate built ship already nearly filled with prisoners 
 bound to Macao and Goa, there most probably to end their 
 days in exile. Another son who had practiced as a Surgeon was 
 
271 
 
 hidden for several weeks in the house of a female friend, who at 
 length became suspected ; the house was searched and as his 
 pursuers entered the door of his bed room, he jumped out of 
 
 the window and got safe on board the A . It may no 
 
 doubt be a matter of surprize how a man of my rank could 
 obtain information of all these circumstances ; fearing any of 
 my readers may suppose I dealt in the wonderful, I must 
 inform them that the gentleman whom I have just described 
 as having escaped with his life, did not understand or speak a 
 word of English ; French to him was as his native tongue. 
 Several of our officers spoke French, indeed to several I acted 
 as teacher, but as these did not converse much with him, 
 towards evening, or during the early part of the first watch, he 
 was often glad to come on the poop and have a chat with me ; 
 and really favoured me with his confidence in a great degree. 
 I was equally pleased with his conversation for he was an in- 
 telligent young man, and as his friends sometimes visited him 
 in the night, and brought him all the news, I was sure to get it 
 next day. 
 
 In January, liberty on shore was granted to a certain por- 
 tion of the ship's company ; I happened to be one of those 
 selected, and among other places I visited the English church, 
 or as it is called the Chapel. It stands at the upper end of 
 the burying ground, a neat building, without that gaudy ap- 
 pearance so common to the catholic churches of this country. 
 The inside is kept in excellent order, carpets and mats spread 
 on all sides, the pews neatly varnished, and the pulpit of rose 
 wood, spreads a sweet odour all around. Standing outside of 
 the church, an English stranger would fancy himself in the 
 pleasure grounds of some nobleman; true, the monuments 
 inform us that the dead lie here, but the alleys, gravelled and 
 bordered on either side with very large geraniums in full bloom, 
 and almond trees also in full blossom, with various other 
 flowers, bespeak the care with which it is attended. A vast 
 number of monuments some nearly two hundred years old 
 
272 
 
 record the greatness, the goodness, and the riches of those 
 mouldering below. Among them I observed the tomb of P. 
 Dodridge, the author of the Rise and Progress of Religion 
 in the Soul, and many other good books ; as also that of 
 Fielding, the author of Tom Jones, or the Foundling. Appro- 
 priate inscriptions are deeply cut on both, and they are sur- 
 mounted with lofty cypresses, the largest and the highest I 
 
 had ever seen, or heard of. A Mr. C , who has for many 
 
 years acted as Clerk to the Chapel, kindly took me round the 
 grounds, which consist of nearly three acres, and on my leaving, 
 desired me to tell any of the men, who might be on shore, and 
 sober, that if they wished to see the place he should be happy 
 to see them. There was a time, even in my recollection, when 
 the " (if sober)" would really have been needful, but now that 
 better regulations and habits have improved the service, it is 
 not uncommon to see Jack on shore, and come off, perfectly 
 sober. I will not say it is universally so, but in a great 
 measure ; and if complete drunkards are found in a ship, five, 
 out of seven, are tars of the old school, who would as soon 
 think of changing their manners, as the leopard his spots. 
 
 From the English Church I visited the Cathedral; it not 
 being the time of divine service, we had some difficulty in gain- 
 ing admittance ; the porter at first refused to let me in, but an 
 old woman, toothless with age, and double with infirmities, 
 making her appearance, I just gave her eye a glance of a piece 
 of silver, I held between my fingers ; that was the key to open 
 the door of her good will, it operated like a talisman. I was 
 led through all parts of the building, that part, where the Nuns 
 sit, seeing and unseen, not excepted; I sat on their seats, and 
 fancied I heard their unavailing sighs of regret, at being torn 
 from the world, deprived of the comforts of society, their hopes 
 blasted, and devoted to a life of monastic rigour, in the very 
 prime of youth and bloom of health. I reflected with delight 
 on my own happy little island, a mere speck upon the ocean 
 where the Almighty has implanted in every bosom a sense of 
 
273 
 
 liberty ; plunged in a labyrinth of reflection, I almost forgot 
 where I was, and no doubt should have gone much deeper, 
 but the old lady thinking I had been there long enough, drew 
 me back to the world; by a strong push; I gave her a quarter 
 of a dollar,, and went out to take a view of that grand piece of 
 national architecture,, the aqueduct, which supplies this vast city 
 with water, extending over high hills and deep valleys, for above 
 sixteen miles ; from the centre arch over the first valley, to the 
 ground below, is 628 feet. The valley itself is beautifully 
 pleasing, studded here and there with cottages, dropped 
 as it were into groves of orange and lemon trees, and which 
 from the great height at which I stood seemed like the regions 
 of fancy. On either side of the large tube (if I may call it so, 
 that conveys the water into the city), are two paths, broad 
 enough for two men to walk abreast of each other ; they are 
 edged with a parapet wall, and paved with Portland stone. 
 At sunset I returned to the ship, highly gratified with my day's 
 cruise, but very much fatigued ; and truly thankful for the in- 
 dulgence granted me. 
 
 Scarce one day passed without some execution taking place, 
 and nearly all for political crimes. The robber, who in the 
 dismal hour of night presented his stilletto to the bosom 
 of the peaceful individual, demanding his money or his life, or 
 possibly took the life first, was in many instances left to roam 
 at large ; or if taken, suffered to escape the ends of justice ; 
 while some unhappy being, who, in an unguarded moment, 
 saw his son, his only one, torn from his home to go and serve 
 in the army of the man he detested, expressed his sentiments 
 rather too openly on the existing government, was dragged 
 through the streets, insulted by his equal, hooted by the 
 rabble, and most probably ended his life at the strangling post ; 
 such scenes reader were common, and to the feeling heart, oh 
 how distressing. About the middle of February, 1832, sixteen 
 of the unfortunate victims of political strife who were taken 
 from the Dragon hulk, passed within half a pistol shot of our 
 
274 
 
 quarter, landed, and within two hours we saw from our poop r 
 half of them shot ; the others reserved for a more painful death, 
 were strangled. Of all the executions I have ever seen, I 
 think strangling the most cruel and unmanly, putting the un- 
 happy being to needless pain in his last moments ; there is 
 a post, deeply buried in the earth, but sufficiently high above 
 to reach the head of any man ; on this board is a cross piece, 
 which, fitting in a mortice, slides up and down with ease, just 
 to suit the neck of the sufferer ; at each end of the cross piece 
 is a hole, through which a stout piece of rope is rove and 
 spliced at the back, just leaving it long enough to go easily 
 over the poor creature's head ; through the back part of the 
 rope the executioner passes his stick, about two feet long, and 
 taking a round turn, tightens the rope, so that the prisoner 
 can draw no breath, and until the eyes almost start from 
 their sockets ; but such is the law, he must not be dispatched 
 yet- mercy is dead the executioner eases up, and slackening 
 the rope, allows the poor creature to breathe and become sen- 
 sible, heaves tight again, and eases up till easing is useless, 
 and nature exhausted, and he dies. In Caza del Rey, the very 
 day before Lisbon surrendered to Don Pedro, 1 witnessed the 
 execution of an officer, who anticipating the surrender, called 
 out among the populace (e vive Don Pedro ; w poor creature his 
 moments were numbered. 
 
 Early iin June, the English squadron got under way, and 
 quitted the Tagus without saluting the Portuguese Flag ; and 
 continued cruising between Cape Especio and the Rock. Mean- 
 while a strict embargo was laid on all ships and vessels in the 
 river ; there was even some difficulty in getting permission for 
 the Viper, one of the tenders, to go in for fresh beef for the 
 squadron. In August, as the Viper was going in, one of the 
 batteries opened a fire on her ; the affair was immediately laid 
 before the Admiral, the signal was made " prepare to anchor 
 with springs on the cables/' Every preparation was made for 
 action; with a fine breeze N.W., the ships ran in and anchored 
 
275 
 
 close to the batteries, making a noble shew three, three-deck 
 
 ships, and two of 80 guns each. The A , bearing the flag of 
 
 the Commander-in-Chief, took her station abreast the largest 
 battery ; the C - next, and each ship in succession. It was 
 fully expected that a few shot would be fired in anger that day, 
 but the Dons disappointed our expectations, for satisfaction 
 having been demanded, was immediately given, at least so 
 the story ran before the mainmast ; the officer who com- 
 manded the battery was dismissed. The idea of an action with 
 batteries on shore seemed to inspire some of our men with 
 pleasure ; I cannot say that with me it operated in that way : 
 where duty points, I am ever ready to obey, nor will I ever 
 shun danger or duty, but I never unnecessarily court it. 
 As 1 stood at the breech of the 55th gun, of which I was cap- 
 tain, and looked round on the animated countenances of the 
 crew, I felt a glow of pleasure at the certainty that England's 
 expectations would be fulfilled, for that every man would 
 indeed " do his duty." Of all the ships commissioned since the 
 peace, not one could be better, and few equal, in discipline, or 
 have a finer crew than the A . As a ship, she was pos- 
 sessed of every good quality the heart of man could wish for ; 
 she was the only ship I ever delighted in. In her there was 
 none of the heavy labour at the wheel, so common in many of 
 our large ships ; take her all in all, she was the ne plus ultra 
 of our coloured ship builder. With such a ship, and under 
 
 Capt. R , any man might be comfortable ; he was a strict 
 
 disciplinarian, a thorough bred seaman, and above all a good 
 master ; it is not to be wondered that this immense fabric, 
 in all its evolutions should be like clock work, regularity 
 itself. 
 
 At the latter end of August, the squadron of Her most 
 faithful Majesty the Queen of Portugal, under Admiral 
 Sartoritis, anchored off the bar, and just out of gunshot of 
 St. Julian and Bugio ; and although the ships of Don Miguel 
 were ready, and treble the force of their enemies, they did not 
 
attempt to come outside,, but lay, in inglorious ease, safe in the 
 Tagus. It was reported that several messengers were sent to 
 request that the squadron should put to sea ; the English 
 however remained quiet at anchor, until the liberating squad- 
 ron weighed, and stood close in to the batteries in Casceas, 
 so near that some of the shot passed over their ships; 
 we then got underweigh, and just at that time the Donna 
 Maria, flag ship, unfurling the British Ensign at the main, and 
 his own flag at the fore, fired a royal salute ; not having a 
 Pedroite Standard ready, it was sometime before we could 
 return the salute. During that time, no doubt expectation 
 was raised to the highest pitch on board the little squadron, 
 
 but when the A 's thunder burst forth, and re-echoed 
 
 along their shores, followed by the Caledonia and the others, 
 I can well fancy how they felt, it seemed to say to those 
 engaged, press on. From Casceas to Belem, and so on to the 
 palace, the telegraph announced, " the Rebel squadron have 
 saluted the British Flag," they could not say so much for them- 
 selves, nor did they suppose that we knew all their signals. 
 
 Again we occupied our cruising ground, and the J 
 
 was sent in for a supply of water for all the ships. At that 
 time the liberating squadron got underweigh from their 
 anchorage, and stood close in to the mouth of the Tagus, and 
 raised a terrible commotion in Lisbon and its environs. The 
 two parties on shore were at loggerheads, and in the batteries 
 every one supposed that Admiral Sartorius was about to force 
 an entrance into the river ; as the ships stood close in, a ser- 
 geant in the service of Don Miguel, but who was in the interest 
 of Pedro, was taken in the very act of spiking those guns, which 
 were most likely to hurt the liberating squadron, and had 
 actually spiked eight before he was detected ; no trial took 
 place, the poor wretch was taken to the beach, and in full 
 view shot. 
 
 Our tender seldom went in without bringing out some vic- 
 tims of the revolution, who to save life, sacrificed comfort to 
 
277 
 
 their allegiance to their sovereign. In September, Don Miguel, 
 succeeded in driving Admiral Felix to sea with the Don Juan, 
 84, and the Queen, 64, and several frigates to face Sartorius's 
 little squadron. In the mean time our ships weighed and 
 proceeded to Oporto, where we anchored on the 22nd of Sep- 
 tember ; the road of Oporto is entirely exposed, and extremely 
 dangerous with Southerly winds, but as the N. N. W. winds 
 mostly prevail during the summer months, we lay here secure 
 enough. 
 
 September 29th, a day ever memorable to me, as having 
 received a severe wound on that very day at Kotzebue Sound. 
 It was expected that being the birth day of Don Miguel, as 
 also that of his patron saint, that he would avail himself of 
 the circumstance and make a powerful attack on Oporto, then 
 in possession of the Pedroites, who had obtained it with 
 scarcely a struggle ; the event justified the expectations of all. 
 The South side of the Douro, which was then in possession 
 of the Miguelites, was very narrow at the entrance, and though 
 Oporto was well garrisoned, and defended mostly by French 
 and English mercenaries, the fate of the day was doubtful. 
 One of its greatest defences was the Sierra Convent, which 
 being a building of extreme strength, and manned by the Irish 
 
 Brigade, under the command of Brigadier General , 
 
 shewed a row of brass 42 pounders to the face of the enemy. 
 Long before the dawn of day, on the ever memorable 29th, 1 832, 
 cannon and musketry announced that an attack had been 
 made on the town, and as night receded we obtained a sight 
 of the Douro covered with smoke. About 8, A. M., it became 
 evident that the Miguelites had been repulsed with great 
 slaughter, and were then making a second attack on the convent 
 and its adjacent batteries, which all withstood their utmost 
 efforts. The last trial did not continue above an hour ; the Mi- 
 guelites were driven back by the British and French, leaving 
 the city comparatively quiet : but it was a temporary quiet, like 
 a lull between two heavy squalls. About 1 1, A. M., the Admiral, 
 
278 
 
 and as many of the officers as could be spared from the different 
 ships, landed outside the Douro. The coxswain of our large 
 boat being ill, I was ordered to take his place, and a little after 
 noon we reached the very spot where the action had begun. 
 Although the enemy had retreated to a pretty good distance, 
 it was rather dangerous going towards the city, as the Mi- 
 guelite picquets were stationed on every rising ground, from 
 whence a musket ball could tell. Every step as we walked 
 along gave evidence of the heat of action. Houses were 
 knocked down, the earth ploughed up by shot and shell, and 
 all around proclaimed horror and devastation : here and there 
 groups of women and children, whose countenances pourtrayed 
 grief and anxiety, were watching with streaming eyes the pro- 
 gress of the fight. At short distances were stationed picquets, 
 to protect the roads, and to assist the wounded on their way 
 to the town. Many of their wounded we met, some with the 
 loss of an arm, others with blood streaming from different parts 
 of their bodies. On the left was a small battery often guns, and 
 one eight-inch mortar, which seemed to have been the first, 
 and most dreadful point of attack. From circumstances, the 
 enemy must have been close to the battery before they fired, 
 for on looking into the moat, I counted twenty-seven dead 
 bodies, most of them from wounds in the head, surrounded 
 by more corpses than I could count. On the land side, was a 
 vineyard, in which grapes had till that morning been hanging 
 beautifully ripe ; they were now trodden down, the frames 
 broken, and the place so thickly strewed with wounded, that it 
 was difficult to tread clear of them. 
 
 It seemed to me that the object of our officers was to get a 
 view of the Sierra Convent, as that had not only been the hot- 
 test point of attack, but from its elevated position, it com- 
 manded an extensive view of the surrounding country, and of 
 the still contending armies, of which nothing now gave notice, 
 save the respective vollies of musketry, and the hoarse thunder 
 of the field howitzers. It was nearly three when we reached 
 
279 
 
 the Convent ; I was tired enough, for most of the officers 
 having taken e*f their side arms, the task of carrying them 
 devolved on me. 
 
 To describe the grand, the awful, the imposing scene, is 
 far beyond the power of my pen ; the sun was fast hastening 
 towards the western horizon, when we entered the Convent, 
 which was entirely deserted, except a few men left for the 
 guns, if required. Not a living soul was left within its walls ; 
 the gateway, which had been doubly secured by casks filled 
 with sand and piled within it, was now in ruins, battered down 
 by the shot of the enemy. We passed along the ranges of 
 cells, where once had been heard the " busy hum" of men ; all 
 now was quiet ; no more resounded the voice of the Monks, 
 or the pealing anthem, inspiring awe ; the voice of adoration, 
 of business, or of pleasure, were alike silenced ; dust, rubbish, 
 and dead bodies formed one awful mass. One side of the 
 Convent walls was much damaged by shot and shell, but 
 upon the whole it had withstood the attack well ; in front, a 
 deep moat, lately dug, protected it, where the Miguelites in 
 attempting to storm, had been repulsed with dreadful slaugh- 
 ter, for the moat was nearly level with dead bodies. On the 
 land side of the Convent, a large vineyard extended nearly 
 as far as the eye could reach, to the foot of the neighbouring 
 hills the grapes full and ripe the frames broken by the 
 tread of men and horses ; it was difficult to advance one step 
 without stepping on a body, whose countenance ghastly and 
 ferocious, even in death struck terror to the beholder. A short 
 time after the retreat of the troops, few of the dead had any 
 clothing left ; for fiends in the shape of men and women, were 
 prowling round to strip the dead of their last covering. 
 
 This was a place well calculated to rouse the feelings : here 
 around us numbers of lives had been sacrificed to ambition ; 
 bitter even now the thoughts of what I felt at that moment ; 
 fatal ambition, the fiend, who dressing itself in the robes of 
 liberty, brings misery to thousands. How many widows and 
 
280 
 
 orphans had this day made, and left in misery and sorrow; 
 I shrunk from the idea. The two armies were still busily at 
 work the distant sound of cannon the frequent volleys of 
 musketry announced that death was claiming his prey. T felt 
 on leaving the Convent, as if a heavy load had been removed 
 from my breast; happy to shut my eyes on the scenes of woe 
 around me. As we retraced our steps towards the shore, we 
 were met by groups of females and children, who were re- 
 turning from a vain search after a father and a husband, now 
 no more, enquiring of all they met, the fate of the battle. They 
 
 " Westward and North since morning's dawn, 
 
 " The sport alike of every vale 
 " Had crossed the forest and the lawn, 
 
 " The mountain summit and the dale, 
 
 " Without obtaining peace." 
 
 Among one of the groups was seen the young and beautiful 
 
 widow of Colonel C , of the Irish Brigade, who had that 
 
 morning been shot, while giving some orders to a sergeant ; 
 we had got about half way on our return, (our progress was 
 
 necessarily slow), but still detained by Commander P , 
 
 who on being frequently begged to hasten, always replied, 
 " the Portuguese would think me a coward if I hurried/ 5 and 
 continued his slow pace. When in crossing a part of the 
 road which had been knocked down level with the ground, 
 the Miguelite people appeared in full view, not more than 
 hah a musket shot off; still not the least idea presented itself 
 that they would fire at persons who were unarmed, and only- 
 spectators of the scene ; but the event proved how frail our 
 opinions were, for in a moment a shower of musket balls 
 whizzed across our path ; one fatal bullet struck Mr. V -, our 
 Purser, and went completely through his body ; he exclaimed 
 " oh, my God, I am wounded," and fell into the arms of those 
 nearest to him, among wh< m I was. I never knew an event 
 
 of the kind create such interest in a ship. Mr. V , from 
 
 the highest to the lowest was universally respected ; with 
 
381 
 
 extreme difficulty he was got on board, [and wonderful to re- 
 late, recovered. I have seldom ever felt more pleasure than 
 I did, when late at night I ascended the old A's side ; then, 
 and not till then, I felt conscious of safety, and, as during the 
 middle watch, I paced the poop, I reflected with pleasure 
 upon the innumerable blessings Englishmen enjoy ; secured 
 by their laws at home ; and abroad, protected by their wooden 
 walls ; they can at night retire to rest, without the dread 
 of civil wars, such as rend the very hearts of neighbouring 
 countries. 
 
 Firing was distinctly heard from the ships the whole of the 
 night. Sunday, at day-break, all was quiet ; an awful stillness 
 seemed to reign over the whole scene of the preceding day. 
 It appeared that a temporary cessation of hostilities had been 
 tacitly taken and given ; for on both sides parties were seen, 
 collecting the dead in heaps, while others were busily em- 
 ployed in digging holes to put them into ; they were uninter- 
 rupted. The loss on the side of Miguel, was computed at 
 above two thousand ; that of Pedro was reported less, but it was 
 conjectured that their loss was equal ; the carnage was dread- 
 ful, and for several days after the troops were suffered to repose. 
 
 October 4th, the Donna Maria arrived, after having had an 
 action with the Don Juan 84, and fairly driven her into the 
 Tagus ; it was a dangerous experiment for a ship of only 
 32 guns, of small calibre, to range herself alongside such 
 an antagonist; but it will convince the world that an 
 Englishman will almost attempt any 4hing, and seldom fails of 
 accomplishing his object. After she had been a short time 
 anchored, I was sent alongside of her on duty ; she certainly 
 was in a dreadful state ; I counted no less than seventy-eight 
 shot in her hull, and on going on board, one of the first objects 
 that struck my sight was a young man named Nixon, who 
 only a few months before had run from our ship, and after 
 remaining on shore sometime, had been obliged to enter the 
 
 T 
 
282 
 
 Pedroite service, and in this action had received a wound 
 in the head, of which he died next day. So much for run- 
 ning from a ship of war, I never yet knew one better himself 
 by it. 
 
283 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Our march is on the mountain wate, 
 Our home is on the deep." 
 
 IN these days, when no compulsion is used to force a man 
 into the service, mature consideration should guide the seaman 
 in the choice of his ship, and above all he should recollect that 
 " a rolling stone gathers no moss/ 5 Every thing now in ships 
 of war proves how superior they are to the merchant service ; 
 not a day passes, but I hear many among the seamen, de- 
 plore their having run from a ship of war; when, had they not 
 done so, they might now, instead of poverty and rags, which 
 are before them, have enjoyed a good pension^ in respectability 
 and comfort. But in many cases, a strange infatuation takes 
 possession of the mind, and leads men to commit actions 
 which ever after their better judgment condemns ; and so it 
 was with the unhappy youth named in the former chapter. 
 Brought up respectably, after serving an apprenticeship in 
 that nursery, the North country trade, he entered the ser- 
 vice of his country with every prospect of doing well. For six 
 years he served with credit, but in one fatal moment destroyed 
 
 T2 
 
284 
 
 all, and ultimately lost his life in a mercenary cause. He told 
 me, as I stood at the side of his cot, that from the moment of 
 his entering he had seen his error, and been miserable ; parti- 
 cularly when he saw his old ship, the A , but like many 
 
 others 
 
 " Beneath a foreign soil he sleeps, 
 41 His dauntless breast now burns no more ; 
 " For him, his widow 1 d partner weeps, 
 " For him, his orphan babes deplore. 
 
 " Oh give him pity's soothing tear, 
 
 44 Kind charity's benignant boon." 
 
 " DIRGE." 
 
 About the middle of October, for some reason I could not learn, 
 it was found necessary, by the Commander-in-Chief, to send a 
 flag of truce to the General of the Migu elite army. Lieutenant, 
 
 now Commander C , was chosen to go, and as a sort of 
 
 orderly was accompanied by a sergeant of Artillery and myself. 
 The only protection we had was the Jack of our nation, which 
 indeed was deemed sufficient, as long as it could be seen. 
 From some cause we were detained late before we set out, and 
 that detention was likely to prove fatal to us ; it was about 
 1 o'clock when we landed, not far from one of the Miguelite 
 
 batteries. Mr. C having spoken to the Commandant, 
 
 and shewn his credentials, was passed on, under an escort, to 
 
 the camp, where General C held his command, and head 
 
 quarters. It was nearly 3, p. M. when we arrived there. 
 What passed between my Officer and the General, of course 
 I knew nothing of, but on looking round at the vast number 
 of men that surrounded me, I felt surprised at the various 
 and false reports, of the distress prevailing in the Miguelite 
 camp ; all seemed well clothed, and for men who had so 
 lately been engaged in active warfare, well looking. Here then 
 we stood in the very centre of a camp that might be deemed 
 an enemy's, no very pleasant situation certainly, as night was 
 fast approaching ; however our protection waved over our 
 
285 
 
 heads. Just before we left the camp, our Officer desired 
 
 something to drink, when General C said " if you go into 
 
 my tent," pointing to it, " you will find some water ." I was 
 sent ; a cask stood at one end of it, an old tin-pot near it ; 
 
 with that I hastened back, and Mr. C having drunk 
 
 heartily, returned it to me. I could not help remarking that 
 war levels all, and that hospitality does not dwell in a Camp. 
 On our way back, as we drew near the lines, our course was 
 well nigh stopped ; altogether for it being dusk, and our Jack 
 not easily distinguished, picquets presented their pieces at us; 
 had we not immediately stopped, our earthly career would 
 soon have ended ; we got safe on board. 
 
 Variable winds, and these sometimes tending to the South- 
 ward, warned the Admiral it was time to remove his squadron 
 to a place of greater safety. Accordingly October 20th, the 
 signal was made to weigh, and after a fine passage, on the 
 22nd we again dropped the best bower in the Tagus, where 
 we found all, just as we had left it. The Miguelite squadron 
 were busily employed in fitting out and repairing the damages 
 the last cruize had occasioned. It is laughable to see a Por- 
 tuguese sailor going up to the mast head, with his immense 
 grego on, it being so heavy as to render him almost incapable of 
 motion, 
 
 Christmas, like all those days on board ships of war, was 
 a season of rejoicing ; the tables groaning under the weight of 
 roast beef and plumb pudding. At six in the evening the 
 
 A 's lower deck presented a sight pleasing and rare, and 
 
 such I dare say as few of my readers ever saw : fancy then 
 a deck of 132 feet long, a fine tier of 32 pounders, and 
 between each, a table with mess shelves, crockery, &c., neatly 
 arranged, clean and in good order. On each table were large 
 branches, torn from the orange trees, with the fruit on them, 
 beautifully ripe; and almond boughs in full blossom, intersper- 
 sed with geraniums, then in flower ; on some of the tables 
 transpare rices, roughly executed, but pleasing to the eye. One 
 
286 
 
 in particular represented Nelson, with a gentleman looking 
 up at him, and a little boy holding by his finger ; the child 
 looking at his papa, said, 
 
 " Who's that papa ?" And the father replied, 
 " 'Tis our Nelson, old England's pride, 
 ' The dread of all her foes beside." 
 
 There were one thousand and forty one candles, all burning 
 at once, which reflected a lustre that the green only pre- 
 vented from dazzling the eyes. The Admiral, Captain, and 
 most of the Officers paid us a visit about seven, and were highly 
 delighted ; but after that hour, noise, drunkenness, and riot 
 succeeded, and I felt really glad when eight o'clock struck, 
 and I went on the poop to keep the first watch. 
 
 Lisbon for sometime remained particularly quiet ; police 
 arrangements had been made, and a vigilant look out kept the 
 discontent down ; indeed few but old men remained to mur- 
 mur, for in walking two whole streets, it was a chance if you 
 met above one or two males, and these were aged. Great 
 preparations were making to give Admiral Napier a warm re- 
 ception ; he had superseded Admiral Sartorius, and was known 
 to be a most determined and courageous man, which made 
 the Portuguese tremble. Early in May, intelligence arrived 
 that the Admiral had landed in Algarve, near Cape St. Vincent ; 
 after which several towns hoisted the blue and white flag, and 
 claimed his protection ; little fighting was required, for the 
 inhabitants of the town seemed panic struck. About the 16th of 
 July, a brig arrived in the Tagus, with intelligence that Admiral 
 Napier had captured the squadron of Don Miguel, and that 
 the captured ships were taken into the Bay of Largos, to repair 
 damages. For several days it was evident that something serious 
 was expected to take place, in or about Lisbon ; the troops 
 crossing the river to reinforce the batteries on the south side, 
 made us keep a bright look out upon their motions. On the 
 24th July, at 4, A. M., as day light appeared, we were surprised 
 
287 
 
 to see from our poop, a small battery on Point Tresillas, with the 
 blue and white waving from its staff. An immediate order was 
 given for the ships to weigh, and get out of their line of fire ; but 
 before this could be accomplished the Alamaida, the strongest 
 battery on the south side, hoisted the blue and white ; it was 
 evident that there was a great discussion on hoisting the flag 
 
 on the battery, for off the A s poop, I could see with a 
 
 glass, the flag bent on, and the man with the halliards in his 
 hand ready to pull up, yet apparently undecided; however by 
 9, A. M., all the batteries, south of the Tagus, had given up to 
 Don Pedro's troops. About 10, A. M. a small battery on Casa 
 del Rey, shewed the blue and white, hoisted as it was said by 
 a man named O'Brien, who received a knock down blow or 
 two, before he accomplished his purpose. All seemed now to 
 have caught the infection, for by 1, F. M., the Citadel, Belem, 
 Bugio, and St. Julian all bore one flag, namely the blue and 
 white ; and before evening scarce a boat in the Tagus, however 
 small, whose oars and sides were not streaked blue and white. 
 It seemed as if the colours had risen by magic, no pen can 
 describe the confusion that ensued ; double royal salutes were 
 fired, and both sides of the Tagus were one constant blaze 
 for hours. 
 
 Only the day before, had any person dared to breathe the 
 name of Donna Maria, his life would have been forfeited; 
 or had any one been seen wearing the combined colors, his 
 life would not have been worth a straw. But on this aus- 
 picious day, the dawn of returning peace seemed to shine on the 
 Portuguese citizen. No name, but Donna Maria's, resounded 
 through the streets ; no tongue but was ready to shout her 
 praise ; she was the only idol at whose shrine devotion was 
 paid ; civil authority was insufficient to keep order. Bands 
 of men, whose object was chiefly plunder, paraded the 
 streets ; and collecting mobs, attacked the houses of those 
 persons who had been most in favour with the former go- 
 vernment ; threw their furniture out of the windows, and 
 
288 
 
 set fire to it in the open street. For three days it was dan- 
 gerous to walk in the streets; .a certain portion of troops 
 were at last stationed in each of them, and after some very 
 severe examples, something like order was restored. Several 
 hundred persons, who had rendered themselves disliked and 
 feared, under Miguel, were obliged, as a place of security, to 
 seek refuge in the Citadel. Illuminations and fireworks suc- 
 ceeded each other for days and nights, and all seemed anxious 
 to show their devotion to the youthful Queen. Rejoicings 
 re-commenced on the 26th, when the squadron, under Admiral 
 Napier, entered the Tagus, and for a time he was hailed from 
 all quarters as el liber ador. About the 14th August, the Soho, 
 steam vessel came in, having on board the young Queen ; she 
 came in with the Standard of Portugal at the main, and as 
 she passed, the batteries on shore saluted, as did the English 
 and French men-of-war. In the evening, each of our ships fired 
 a feu-de-joie, the town was illuminated, and a grand display 
 of fireworks took place. 
 
 The Pedroite Government did not long remain very popular, 
 for one of its first acts was to curtail the power of the clergy ; 
 an act which at that moment, though just, was ill timed. This 
 was proved so, for in a few days a plot was discovered, almost 
 ripe, and particularly well planned, for restoring the possession 
 of the city to Don Miguel. About four hundred persons 
 were found implicated in it, among whom the heads of the clergy 
 were conspicuous. Money to a large amount, and arms in 
 great numbers were confiscated ; some of those concerned 
 escaped, but by far the greatest number went to prison. 
 Wherever the Queen, or Don Pedro appeared, they were re- 
 ceived with acclamations of delight, the sincerity of which 
 may be doubted. It exhibited the pliability of the Portuguese 
 character ; like the Vicar of Bray, ever ready to suit itself to 
 any emergency. Certainly Lisbon, drained to the very dregs of 
 men, and of money, required that rest its present government 
 seemed willing to give it. However, fearing the threatened 
 
289 
 
 visit of Miguel should take place, the old fortifications were 
 repaired, and new ones built, outside the town; and every thing 
 made ready for any untoward circumstance that might take 
 place. These preparations were not needless, for before they 
 were well ready, Miguel with an army, far more powerful that 
 could have been expected, was close to their lines ; and in 
 order to let them know that he was in earnest, his first act 
 was to cut off the tube of the aqueduct which supplied the 
 town with water. From the manner in which the fortifi- 
 cations were built, the town of Belem was left unprotected, 
 and quite free to the ravage of the enemy's troops. The 
 inhabitants were therefore obliged to quit it and fly to Lisbon, 
 under the wings of Pedro, to avoid his brother. The alarm 
 became general, not a boat was allowed to pass Belem, without 
 being fired at ; and many of the blue and white boats assumed 
 a more sombre hue ; enthusiasm seemed to cool, as Miguel 
 came nearer. The house of the British Ambassador was 
 situated nearly in the centre of Belem, but as it was necessary 
 that his property should be respected, the British Ensign flew 
 over his house all day ; and to add to its security, a corporal 
 and three private marines were put in charge of it, taking 
 three days' provisions, with positive orders not to leave the 
 house. No care was neglected to insure the safety of English 
 subjects and property, in the event of Miguel's entering the 
 town ; and, so that the English should feel no uneasiness, the 
 Admiral ordered that each ship should supply one or more 
 boats, according to her rate, to attend every night, and all night 
 long, at the different landing places, fully prepared to receive 
 any who may need the protection of the British Flag. It 
 was continued till every idea of danger was past, and it was 
 really pleasing to hear the middle ranks of the English, who 
 resided in Lisbon, speak of the attention paid to their safety. 
 The evening on which our marines' provisions were supposed 
 to be exhausted, the Commander called me to him, saying, " do 
 you not speak Portuguese ?" a very little, sir, answered I, 
 
290 
 
 " well then," said Commander P , " make use of that little 
 
 to-morrow morning ; and go in the pinnace, and take three 
 day's provisions to our men." At 6, A. M., I was all ready, and 
 on stepping down the side into the boat, I said to the Midship- 
 man, pray sir have you a Jack in the boat ? On his answering 
 in the negative, I said, believe me, sir, I am not going to trust 
 myself among those fellows, without the British Flag to secure 
 my head ; and with that I jumped up the side for a Jack, and 
 although officers and men laughed at me, I secured it to a 
 staff, and taking it on my shoulder landed. To that Jack I owe 
 
 my life, for I had not left Mr. S in the boat more than six 
 
 minutes, when ont urning the corner of a street, two Miguelites, 
 with their rifles at the shoulder, and cocked, bade me stand 
 fast or die ; and one of them said to the other, as sure as you 
 live this is the spy. My situation just then was none of the 
 pleasantest, suspected of being a spy, with two loaded rifles 
 pointed at my breast, ready cocked, which the weight of a 
 hair would have discharged, and sent two leaden messengers 
 through me, operated like a charm. I did not move one foot, 
 but shaking my flag with both my hands, I let them see the 
 pretty mixture of colours it contained, and shouted lustily 
 Inglese, Inglese. For some moments they appeared ulidecided 
 how to act, however one left, and I supposed went for an 
 officer ; and the other lowering his gun, half cocked it, and 
 rested on it, telling me however not to move. In a few mo- 
 ments an officer appeared, who asked me in Portuguese, who 
 I was ; as I was no great hand at his lingo, I asked him if he 
 understood French, and finding that he did, I explained to him 
 the nature of the duty I was upon, and the orders I had to 
 fulfil. This officer, who wore an immense pair of mustachios, 
 told me that I must be searched, to see that I had no papers 
 about me of an improper nature ; but this I utterly refused, 
 saying to him, sir, I am a British subject, belonging to the 
 Admiral's ship, and I feel assured the Commander-in-chief 
 would be offended if he knew I was ill treated 5 if such is 
 
291 
 
 to be the case, yourself or your government must answer for it. 
 I was then required to say that I had no papers about me, 
 and tired of waiting, I said I had not, and was immediately 
 escorted to the very door I wished to enter ; the corporal 
 unbarred it and let me in. While in the house, from an upper 
 window, the men pointed out to me a party of Miguelites who 
 having stolen a bullock, drove it into a neighbouring yard, 
 killed it, and having kindled a fire from the ruins of an old 
 coach, were broiling beef steaks and enjoying their meal, pro- 
 bably the best they had for many days. The meal was nearly 
 ended, when a shell from an eight-inch mortar, on the Pedroite 
 lines, pitched in one corner of the yard in which they were 
 regaling themselves ; up they all jumped and flew in all di- 
 rections, providentially the fuze was out of proportion, and 
 did not burst for several seconds after the shell pitched ; but 
 when it did, it raised a cloud of dust and stones, and cleared 
 away all round it ; the men however had got clear of it, only 
 one was wounded. I did not at all envy the marines their 
 abode, for it was not certain, but a shell acted upon by the 
 wind, might, some day, pitch on their house ; and although 
 restitution of property could have been claimed, life could not 
 have been restored. Some days after as I was on the poop, 
 it was pointed out to me that a party of Miguelites had gone 
 into one of the windmills, on the heights over Belem ; as we 
 were still spying at it, a Pedroite shell pitched right on the 
 top of the mill and set it in a blaze ; the loss of life must 
 have been great. 
 
 Early in November, Don Miguel, with fifteen thousand men, 
 made an attack upon Lisbon, near Belem ; at the same time 
 another part was attacked, and little doubt remains, but that if 
 the Donna Maria had not been hauled close in shore, and with 
 her broadside brought on the enemy, deciding the fate of the 
 day, Lisbon would have been taken ; the carnage was dreadful. 
 The Belem fortifications being in sight of the ship, those on 
 board had an excellent view of the action, which continued 
 
292 
 
 three whole days more or less, and was only surpassed by the 
 fight on the 29th at Oporto. The bones of men and horses lay 
 for weeks whitening on the field of battle ; the houses of the 
 Portuguese nobility and English merchants were destroyed ; 
 and that spot, which only a few days before had been delight- 
 ful to the eye, was now a heap of ruins. The English and 
 French Mercenaries followed the retreating Miguelites, and 
 left the lines pretty quiet ; commerce revived, shipping again 
 filled the Tagus, and all hoped things would soon be finally 
 .settled ; water, which from the cutting off of the aqueduct had 
 been scarce, was now again abundant. We seldom heard a 
 shot fired, now Miguel had retreated within the walls of that 
 almost impregnable fortress Santarem, and remained secured 
 within them ; but his troops were in arrear of pay, ill- 
 clothed, and worse fed ; which created disturbances among 
 them, and almost open mutiny. Several vessels had lately 
 arrived from England with troops, who on hearing the state of 
 affairs refused to serve, and in several cases were sent back 
 ruined ; many of them having spent their little all, in their out- 
 fit, as officers, in the Pedroite cause. I well recollect a cir- 
 cumstance, which was related to me by the person to whom it 
 occurred, and as the Admiral interested himself in it, no doubt 
 
 can exist of its truth. This person, whose name was H , 
 
 had been an officer in the English army, on half-pay for several 
 years, with a numerous family to support ; two years before 
 the time of his coming to A , his wife had died of a pro- 
 tracted illness, and great expences had left him incumbered 
 with debts ; creditors became importunate, and in order to sa- 
 tisfy them, and act honestly by all, he sold his commission, 
 paid his debts, left his family with a friend, on whom he could 
 depend, and enlisted as a sergeant under the standard of 
 Donna Maria. From that period, to January, 1834, he followed 
 the fate, and shared the dangers of Don Pedro's followers, with- 
 out receiving any thing but hard duty, small rations, heavy 
 wounds, and one-sixth of his pay. Of the latter, and prize 
 
293 
 
 money, a good sum was due to him ; at last worn down in 
 body and harassed in mind, he determined to quit the ser- 
 vice, and rather forfeit ah 1 that was due, than remain in it. His 
 discharge was obtained, but his pay and prize money was quite 
 another thing, the Exchequer was too poor to pay all debts to 
 faithful servants ; he, however, determined ere he left Portu- 
 gal, to make an effort to recover his dues, and laid his case 
 before the British Admiral, on whose humanity he could 
 depend, nor did he do so in vain. Having addressed a letter, 
 he came on board with it, and having sent it in, waited for an? 
 answer. His unfortunate situation created so much interest 
 among the gun-room officers, that he was ordered down into 
 the steward's birth, to take such refreshments as he needed ; 
 in the mean time a collection was made among them, which 
 amounted to above six pounds. How the Admiral interfered 
 was not known, but certain it is that through his means, di- 
 rectly or indirectly, the poor man obtained every farthing that 
 was due to him, amounting to above three hundred pounds. 
 On the following Saturday, he came on board, decently dressed, 
 to return thanks to the officers for their kindness ; his heart 
 was full ; gratitude, the memory of the heart, seemed almost 
 beyond utterance ; he was about to revisit his home, his family, 
 and his all. Sometime in January, though I now forget the 
 exact day, I shall never forget the circumstance, I had the 
 forenoon watch, (i. e. from eight o' clock till noon) about half- 
 past twelve the French Commodore came up under the stern, 
 and not being seen, walked up the side without the requisite 
 preparations being made, of side boy, guard, &c., which are 
 usual on these occasions, nor was the Captain made acquainted 
 with his approach. To any foreigner this would have been in- 
 excusable, but to our ally, it betrayed not only a want of respect, 
 but a great breach of discipline, and on whom the Captain^ 
 anger would fall was uncertain. I felt myself equally to blame 
 as the signalman, for I had not kept the look out I ought to have 
 done ; thus, for above an hour, while the Commodore remained 
 
294 
 
 on board with the Captain, (the Admiral was on shore) ; the 
 Signal Midshipman, Signalman, and myself endured all the 
 horrors of suspense, as to what might be our doom for this 
 breach of duty. At last the cabin door opened, (it went to my 
 very heart), the Captain and Commodore came out ; and after 
 taking a turn or two on the quarter deck, and speaking French, 
 which the Captain did well, they bade each other good 
 morning, and separated. As soon as the last whistle went, 
 which announced that the barge had shoved off, and the 
 
 bow oars in the water, Captain R , taking a round turn 
 
 on his heel and looking up towards the poop, said, " and 
 now who is Signal Midshipman of the watch ?" to which 
 
 Mr. M answered I am sir, " go to the mast head sir/' 
 
 Away went Mr. M up the main rigging ; my turn next 
 
 thought I, but I was deceived, for the signalman was next, 
 and was put watch and watch for a week, and six water grog. 
 Every moment I expected to be called, but there was not a 
 word about the quarter master ; I really felt grateful, for 
 considering our carelessness, and the idea which must have 
 struck the French Commodore of the bad look out we kept, 
 the punishment was trifling, and certainly well deserved, but 
 it did not end here. Mr. M was a young man, univer- 
 sally respected by high and low throughout the ship ; his 
 pleasing address, gentlemanlike manners, pleased his equals ; 
 and his condescending kindness, without stooping too low, 
 made him a general favourite with the men. 
 
 At 4 o'clock, my watch ended, I was relieved and went 
 
 below ; Mr. M still at the mast head, without his dinner. 
 
 I observed him looking down from his high perch, saying as 
 plain as look could say, I wish I was there with you. I deter- 
 mined to make an effort to carry him something to eat, and 
 went down to the gun room steward, and said to him in a half 
 whisper, if you will make a nice bottle of tea, and put some 
 cold meat and bread in a piece of paper, I will volunteer to 
 take it up to Mr. M . " Will you/' said the steward, 
 
295 
 
 who was pleased at the thought of serving a known friend in 
 view ; " if you do, I will give you a glass of wine." The tea 
 was prepared, ham sandwiches cut, and neatly tied up in a 
 newspaper, were put into my bosom, and the bottle put on 
 the opposite side, I trudged up the main rigging. I had only 
 got a few ratlins up, when who should make his appearance 
 up the after ladder but the Captain ; I was deceived, for I 
 had believed him busy writing. As usual he took a turn or 
 two across the poop, then a look up aloft, as if to see any 
 thing amiss, for his eye was every where, and spying me, 
 knowing I had no business there, hailed " main rigging there ;" 
 the words struck me all of a heap, and looking down seeing there 
 was no one else in the rigging, I answered, sir ; ee come down 
 here,' 9 said the Captain, and down I came ; twice in one day 
 thought I, this is bad indeed. " Pray sir/ 5 said Captain R 
 ' f how long have you been in the gunner's crew ;" never sir, 
 said I, " then what were you doing aloft ?" 
 
 Believe me sir, I will not tell you a falsehood on the sub- 
 ject ; Mr. M has been at the mast head since noon, and 
 
 I dare say he is very hungry ; I was going to carry him some- 
 thing to eat. " Oh, is that all," said the Captain, who came 
 down on the quarter deck ; " and now, pray let me see what 
 you have got for him ;" out of one side came the bottle of tea, 
 and the other produced the sandwiches. The Captain could 
 hardly suppress a smile, but as it was a breach of orders, 
 some punishment had to be inflicted ; I was therefore ordered 
 to sit on the cannonade slide, and eat all the paper con- 
 tained, and drink the whole of the tea. How many, many 
 days have I seen, when such a treat would have been deemed 
 a blessing, and received with gratitude; but just then I 
 would gladly have dispensed with the favour, but obedi- 
 ence has ever been my maxim ; I ate away. Some one having 
 been down into the gun-room, and told the mates, &c., the 
 nature of my punishment, they all came up, and had a 
 good laugh at me. At 5, p. M., Mr. M was called down, 
 
296 
 
 and as soon as my forced meal was ended, I was allowed to 
 go away with a slight reprimand, in the shape of a desire 
 to do so no more ; here I flattered myself it would end, but 
 at eight o'clock when I went to call the officer of the first watch, 
 I was asked from all parts of the gun-room how my sandwiches 
 ate and if I should like a few more ; I took all in good part, 
 joined in the laugh, and like most other nine days wonder it 
 was forgotten, and fresh circumstances occurred to attract their 
 attention. 
 
29? 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 LISBON was quiet enough now, to allow a certain portion of 
 our men to have leave, and on the 23rd of January, two 
 years from my last visit, I was again on shore in company 
 
 with a brother quarter master, named L ; being very 
 
 friendly, we remained together nearly the whole day, and while 
 walking about in the forenoon, we came to a large building, 
 which, from its mournful look, I at first imagined was a prison, 
 but as we were proceeding onwards, we were overtaken by a 
 person of genteel appearance, who had just left the gate. I took 
 the liberty of asking him, what the building was appropriated 
 to, and was informed that it was a foundling hospital, or, as he 
 termed it, a Misericorde, where children were at all times 
 received, and no questions asked ; kept until a certain age, 
 when they were disposed of, for the good of the state. My 
 informer told me that it was the means of saving many lives ; 
 for the unnatural mother, who would in many cases have sacri- 
 ficed her offspring to save her character, or the expence of 
 keeping it, had now no inducement to do so ; for here was a 
 place of refuge, where she might take it and know it to be safe. 
 
298 
 
 Indeed, added the gentleman, it is our practice if we know any 
 female, whose indiscretion is likely to give birth to a child, to 
 keep a watch for its safety even before its birth. Once within 
 our walls, in a month or two, it is difficult for the mother to 
 recognize her own child. Finding the person whom I was 
 addressing had something to do with the institution, I asked 
 if it was possible to enter it. A moment's consideration and our 
 request was granted ; and with our new friend we soon got 
 within the walls, where I saw such a number of little faces 
 (from four months upwards) as I had never before seen at one 
 time. Those above six years of age, inhabited another side of 
 the house, and were in coarse striped woollen stuff, similar to 
 our linsy woolsy ; cheerful and full of chat, and contrary to 
 the usual Portuguese custom, perfectly clean, and the place in 
 excellent order. The house was built and endowed by a rich 
 old lady, who dying without any family, left the whole of her 
 property to the institution ; the civil war had materially injured 
 its interests, and it was now chiefly supported by voluntary 
 contributions ; half a crusado was all I could afford to give, but 
 that went into the box with pleasure. Our next place of 
 visiting was the Adjuda Palace, commenced by Don Juan, the 
 father of the two contending Princes, who was not doomed 
 to dwell within its walls ; it was, however, nearly completed by 
 Don Miguel. The building is of immense dimensions, with 
 a fine prospect of the open sea, and the top adorned with 
 statues of all nations, consisting of Warriors, Priests, and 
 Kings. A Portugese Cacador, who was there in charge of it, 
 after a little chat, admitted us into the palace ; the rooms were 
 larger and more handsome than any I had ever seen before ; 
 a grand marble stair case, with rose- wood bannisters, led to 
 the first floor. Although the more costly furniture had been 
 removed, sufficient of it remained to shew its richness ; nearly 
 all the rooms were hung with tapestry, which I was told had 
 been executed by the needles of the Nuns, and presented from 
 the various Nunneries in Lisbon and its environs ; it certainly 
 
299 
 
 reflected great credit on their abilities. Each room represen- 
 ted a different subject, but the finest I saw, or the one that 
 I admired most, was the parting of Hector and Andromache. 
 The Cacador who was shewing us the place, seemed to enjoy 
 our astonishment, and no doubt thought he was inspiring 
 John Bull with deep respect, for the riches of his Sovereign. 
 
 Previous to the return of Don Miguel to the back of Lisbon, 
 (supposing it likely, that if he did return, himself or his officers, 
 and possibly part of his troops, would have inhabited the 
 palace), a number of barrels of powder had been buried in its 
 underground cellars. When we visited it, the mine was still 
 in being, and complete, with only the tube cut off; one 
 spark would ignite it, and send the building and ourselves into 
 the air ; on thinking of it, I felt rather uncomfortable. 
 
 About sunset, we returned towards the Caza del Rey, and 
 had reached within a quarter of a mile of the place, where the 
 boat was waiting to take us on board, when in a sort of square, 
 we observed a mob collected, of I should say not less than 
 three hundred persons. Several English Officers, in the 
 Pedroite service were among them ; all seemed trying to make 
 some grievance known \ the confusion was terrible. I endea- 
 voured to get my companion along, but during the day, he 
 had drank freely of the white wine of the country, and was 
 what seamen call, above hah seas over, and all my efforts were 
 useless to get him away. He flew into the thickest of the 
 mob, of those who were bawling, at the highest pitch of their 
 voices, Viva Don Pedro ; for some moments I lost sight of 
 him, and during that time, heard several voices shouting 
 Viva Don Miguel, among which I recognised, that of my infa- 
 tuated companion. Presently soldiers flocked from all sides, 
 
 those who could get away, did so ; but L was too far gone ; 
 
 the wine, which before had only taken partial effect, now ren- 
 bered him unable to walk, and he lay sprawling on the ground ; 
 he, with several others was taken to prison. For my part, as 
 coffee had been my only drink that day, I was sober, and as 
 
 u2 
 
300 
 
 quickly as possible got back to the ship, and related the affair. 
 One man had been shot ; who was found to have been, until 
 that day, an officer in the service of Donna Maria, but his 
 friends had induced him to give it up, and in order to defray 
 all expences, had sent him a bill of 50 ; which bill was found 
 in his pocket after his death. He had, that very evening, taken 
 his passage in a brig for Liverpool, and was on his way to 
 her, when the fatal occurrence took place. 
 
 Poor L remained in prison nine days, and although 
 
 bail was offered for his appearance, when called for, he could 
 not be liberated, and nothing but the most powerful interest 
 saved him ; while in the prison, he was liberally supplied with 
 provisions and money, from the officers of the ship. 
 
 One night in February, 1834, just as I had relieved the 
 deck for the middle watch ; the signalman and myself, walking 
 across the poop, observed an immense column of smoke issu- 
 ing from some houses not far from the old palace. It being 
 an unusual thing to see smoke at any time, but much less at 
 midnight, we stood looking at it with attention, and by one 
 bell, i. e. half past twelve, the flames burst forth, and increased 
 every moment after, till they gave a distinct view of all the 
 city. The moment it was reported, the Captain and nearly 
 all the Officers were on deck ; all the boats' crews and fire- 
 men were ordered on shore, to assist in time of need. I had no 
 business there, and was liable to be punished for going ; but 
 I did go, and about ten minutes past one we got to the fire, 
 with Earle's patent pump, the very best ever yet invented. 
 A great number of Portuguese men, women, and children 
 were either standing or running about, but not one attempted 
 any means of stopping the progress of the flames ; it was plain 
 that in order to put a stop to its further extension, one or two 
 houses on each side must be knocked down. The usual 
 whistle on these occasion was resorted to "all hands down 
 house 5" in one moment all was alive. Of all the officers I 
 ever sailed with, none was better calculated for that, or any 
 
301 
 
 other job that required presence of mind and activity, than 
 Lieutenant C ; him therefore I followed, because I sin- 
 cerely respected him, and hoped to make my self useful. There 
 was a small house at the back of the premises, which required 
 pulling down ; to this I was sent with a small party of men ; 
 the windows once broken, we soon got in, and were busily at 
 work, when the fire got to it, and all hands left it without my 
 noticing their departure. I was not aware of my danger, for 
 I was working away with the axe, when I heard one of our 
 
 officers calling to me several times ; (i you B , will you 
 
 come down, the house is falling ;" to each call I answered, aye, 
 aye sir, but did not come till I found I had indeed stayed too 
 long ; the roof fell in, and hurried me among the burning 
 ruins, and scorched one of my shoulders very much. The 
 moment that it was found out that I had fallen, both our 
 engines were brought to bear upon that particular spot ; the 
 fire was kept down, the beams removed, and I was got out, 
 my clothing entirely destroyed, and nearly all the hair singed 
 off my head; but I was not the only one who suffered from 
 this night's work ; several others shared the same fate, and 
 nearly all hands spoiled or destroyed all the clothes they then 
 wore. 
 
 From the fire having taken place so very near the royal 
 residence, it was fully expected that something handsome 
 would be given to those, by whose great exertions the progress 
 of the flames had been stopped. Great debates took place on 
 the lower deck, as well as in the after part of the ship, upon 
 the subject ; some who had not been, went so far as to offer a 
 sum of money to the others for their share of the present they 
 were expected to receive. I was not sanguine in my expec- 
 tation, for my opinion of Portuguese generosity was but indif- 
 ferent ; they have not, thought I, that generous feeling that 
 would spring up in the breast of an Englishman, when he 
 witnesses the exertions of others used in his behalf; but surely 
 they will repay our loss, and at least give to each man the 
 
302 
 
 value of the clothing he has lost ; the event proved that our 
 "dependance was placed on a broken reed. A few days after, 
 an order was issued for every man who was at the late fire, to 
 repair to the quarter deck ; I was at the time in the sick list, 
 from burns and bruizes received at the fire ; but determined 
 not to lose my share of the good things about to be dispensed, 
 I managed to get up. The Captain was on deck, with his 
 cocked hat and sword on, waiting as we supposed, with much 
 pleasure, to announce to his men a liberal donation from the 
 Portuguese crown ; but after a moment or two of dead silence, 
 the Captain read to us, not the sum total but the thanks of 
 His Royal Highness the Duke of Braganza. 
 
 April 5th, being the anniversary of the birth of the young 
 Queen, the ships of war were dressed in flags, fired a royal 
 salute, and a feu-de-joie at night. Lisbon and its environs 
 was brilliantly illuminated, the churches spared no expence in 
 candles, all was outward rejoicing. On one of the tables I saw 
 that day, was one of the finest specimens of the cook's art ; it 
 was a representation of Bugio light house; the rocks round it 
 were so natural, that it would have been easy to mistake them 
 for stones covered with sea weed ; the lanthorn, composed of 
 isinglass, was bright and transparent ; on the top waved the 
 flags of Britain and France, whose ample folds seemed wrapped 
 in each other, as if to proclaim uninterrupted amity. Round the 
 top was a battery of twenty-one small brass cannons all charged, 
 and from one, to the other, a small piece of touch paper, suffi- 
 cient in length to allow the report of one gun just to die away, 
 before the other was heard ; and enable those at the table to 
 be aware it was a salute, and not minute guns. It was placed 
 on the centre of the table, but by some error in the gunnery, 
 all the guns ignited at one time, but the beautiful specimen 
 
 remained entire. Three years were now complete in the A , 
 
 and althought I felt a sincere desire to return home to my 
 family, still the uncertainty of my ever getting so comfortable 
 a ship again considerably abated the wish. 
 
303 
 
 On the ?th, eighty prisoners arrived in Lisbon, among whom, 
 was one female ; they were in the greatest distress imaginable, 
 and from the distance they came, from the Miguelite camp, 
 must have suffered a great deal. A merchant vessel was ordered 
 to be prepared to receive them, and as they were in a most 
 filthy state, the Commander-in-chief kindly ordered them 
 clothing, so that all they had on was committed to the deep. 
 The officers collected linen among themselves for the female : 
 they were all supplied with King's provisions, which to them 
 must have been a perfect luxury. 
 
 In April, we got intelligence that the Commander-in-chief 
 was knighted and ordered home ; immediate preparations were 
 made for leaving the Tagus, every one anticipating the happi- 
 ness of seeing their friends. On the 18th, an old hulk, which 
 had been used as a coal depot for steam vessels, caught fire : 
 our launches were soon manned, with guns in them ; a few shot 
 under water quickly sent her down on her broadside, but not 
 till a great part of the coal was consumed. 
 
 June 28th arrived the H to relieve us, and exchanged 
 salutes. On the 2nd July, 1, p. M., we weighed and soon got 
 round St. Julian, with a fresh breeze at S. E., and bade adieu 
 to the shores of Portugal. 12th, dropped anchor at Spithead, 
 and at noon had the happiness of seeing my family after an 
 absence of nearly three years. 
 
304 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 How sweet is the society of our friends ; it may be compared to a heap 
 of embers, which when placed asunder, can give neither light or heat amid sur- 
 rounding elements ; but when brought together mutually give forth both; 
 the flame bursts forth and not only defend itself, but subdues every thing 
 Around it. 
 
 IT was the hope of nearly all on board, that the ship would 
 have been paid off at Portsmouth; but just as we were getting 
 all ready to come up harbour, an order arrived for us to 
 proceed to Chatham. On the 14th, in the afternoon, we were 
 again under weigh ; after a fine run got abreast of Sheerness, 
 where the Phoenix was waiting to take us in tow ; just as the 
 steam vessel had got the hawsers fast, one of them being coiled 
 
 in the jolly boat, a young man named S , was in the coil ; 
 
 the steam vessel forged ahead, dragging the hawser out of the 
 boat, and with it the unfortunate young man, who before he 
 went over the bow was almost crushed to pieces. I heard his 
 last scream, it went to my very heart : he was the only hope 
 of a widowed mother, and much respected by all on board. 
 Only a few months before, (more from his good conduct than 
 
 from his age) Capt. R had kindly rated him ordinary 
 
 seaman. Three weeks afterwards, his body was picked up 
 
305 
 
 and buried at the parish expence ; on paying off, a subscription 
 was set on foot for the poor mother, to which the Captain and 
 all the Officers most liberally contributed, and I think not a 
 seaman but gave his mite. I question, whether the oldest 
 seaman in the navy ever saw such a thing before,, but from 
 the moment of our arrival, to that of paying off, only three 
 men were seen intoxicated ; and the same routine of duty, the 
 same discipline, was observed the very morning of paying, as 
 had been carried on a year before. 
 
 July 23rd, at 10, A.M., the yacht came alongside, and by 
 noon, I was paid, and my certificate in hand. It has of late 
 years been the custom for Captains to endorse the certificate 
 with a written character ; I felt delighted, when on looking at 
 the back of mine, I read the following words, " an excellent 
 petty officer and very deserving ;" doubly pleasing as coming 
 from a man who was in every way competent to judge of men. 
 Whatever might have been the reason we knew not, but 
 we were surprised to see two of the largest steam vessels 
 under the British flag, come alongside, ready to take us, who 
 belonged to the Westward, to Portsmouth. Having charge 
 
 of some luggage belonging to Capt. R , I got a passage 
 
 in the first, the Medea, that beautiful specimen of steam power ; 
 and after a surprising run of eighteen hours, I landed on 
 Gosport beach, and by having a few cases to take care of, 
 gained twenty-four hours, and within twenty minutes I was at 
 home in comfort. Happy moments, how short, how fleeting. 
 
 That I left the A with a sensation of regret, I could never 
 
 have expected to feel on leaving a ship of war, is certain. I 
 could say with a certain writer to his coat 
 
 Old friend farewell ; full many a day, 
 In varied grief and joy has passed away, 
 Since you and I first met; 
 
 But by far the greatest share had been comfort. For several 
 weeks nothing was doing, no ships fitting out, and the Ports 
 dull to a degree. I soon found money melting away, and that 
 
306 
 
 it was necessary to seek for something to do. To a man who 
 has a family, and who desires to fulfil the sacred duties he 
 owes them, employment is needful. I had frequently heard 
 
 of the E , and that several of my late shipmates had 
 
 joined her ; I followed their example, and do now, and ever 
 shall, feel truly thankful that I did so. I was fearful that 
 m y eye might be an obstacle, but the moment the Captain 
 heard the ship I came from, and saw my papers, I was imme- 
 diately entered. Of all the places presented by Her Majesty's 
 
 naval service for the good of seamen, I deem the E the 
 
 very best; those who wish to obtain a better education, 
 may have a good opportunity of doing so, and to a man of 
 low rank what is better than knowledge ; is it not one of the 
 greatest blessings it has pleased providence to allow us to cul- 
 tivate ? I know one petty officer, who had joined the ship 
 
 from the A but a few weeks before me, and on joining 
 
 did not know his own name when placed before him ; but 
 before he left, had gone through decimals. Here I passed 
 sixteen months in comfort, learnt the art of naval gunnery in 
 
 all its various branches, and on leaving her to join the M , 
 
 obtained a certificate, Class No. 1, well endorsed as to con- 
 duct, &c. I felt grieved at leaving her, for I had hoped, ere 
 that time arrived to have obtained promotion ; for myself 
 alone I thought but little of it, but for my family it was greatly 
 to be desired. 
 
 Our outfit was very quick, for men were plentiful ; no ships 
 had been commissioned for several months. Early in March, 
 the ship went out of harbour ; on the 19th the Admiral came 
 on board, and the same evening weighed to go down channel. 
 Only for a few hours the wind continued fair; it slowly worked 
 itself round, and at last settled at S. E. with thick misty 
 weather, so as to render it unsafe to make the land again. We 
 had to bear the buffeting of the waves in the Bay of Biscay, 
 no very desirable place in March. Each day the wind regularly 
 iiicreased, until the 29th, when it became more moderate. On 
 
so; 
 
 the 25th, while six men were employed furling the jib, some 
 part of which had been blown adrift, the ship gave a heavy 
 pitch and washed four of them over the boom ; three of them 
 held on the guys, but one let go his hold and went over board ; 
 the word " a man over board" soon called all hands on deck, the 
 ship, being close hauled, had but little way ; the helm was put 
 down, and every other means used, but he had sunk to rise 
 no more. 
 
 On the 28th, it blew a perfect gale ; the ship was hove to 
 under a main try-sail, and the sea awful ; during the first 
 watch, she repeatedly rolled 29 degrees, and rather more. 
 Just as the bell had struck five, i. e. half past ten at night, a 
 heavy sea struck her on the larboard bow, above half way 
 up the fore rigging, filled the waist, sent the launch, barge, 
 and booms to leeward, and started the coppers several feet. 
 She dipped her starboard quarter ^so much in the water, that 
 the cutter hanging at the davits, filled, and carrying away the 
 after davit, hung by the fore-mast tackle for some time, till 
 one of the main-top men went out and cut the life line, when 
 the rest carrying away, she drifted clear of the ship. Such a 
 vast quantity of water had collected on the lower deck, that it 
 was found necessary to scuttle it, in order to let[the water into 
 the hold, to the chain pumps, which were kept in full play all 
 the middle watch. Heavy peals of thunder, and occasional 
 flashes of lightning, gave us, for an instant, a full view 
 of the vast sheet of foam around us, and then as suddenly 
 buried us in tenfold darkness. The Captain never, for one 
 moment, left the deck during the first watch, but stood just 
 to windward of me the whole of my two hours, sometimes 
 passing observations on the weather ; and when the sea struck 
 her, coolly making remarks on the heaviness of each shock. 
 
 The absence of her guns on the lower deck made the ship feel 
 uneasy, and labour much more than she would otherwise have 
 done ; for though not much of a sailer, she was a good sea 
 
308 
 
 boat. Several accidents took place during the gale, but mostly 
 among the marines, many of whom being newly raised recruits, 
 and being their first ship, found it difficult to hold on and ; by 
 letting go their hold, in many cases, got severely hurt ; one 
 in particular fell off the skidds into the waist, dislocated his 
 shoulder, and otherwise injured himself. Even amid the dire 
 of contending elements, it was almost impossible not to laugh 
 at the ludicrous scenes which took place. When the man fell 
 into the waist, an old Irish marine, whose face betokened long 
 service, was sitting under the lee of the bulwark ; when obser- 
 ving his comrade fall, he got up, and standing on the very spot 
 from which he had just fallen, hailed him with " are ye kilt 
 boy ?" but before the first could reply, had he been ever so 
 inclined, the ship gave a heavy pitch, and making a complete 
 summerset, he lay on his back close to his companion. Not 
 much hurt, he rose, and scratching his head, walked away, 
 vowing vengeance against the skidds. At last it became 
 moderate, and gave us an opportunity of repairing damages 
 by the late gales. April 3rd, spoke a brigantine from Zante, 
 to Liverpool, which four days before, had had her chief mate 
 and two seamen washed overboard. He was requested to 
 
 report the M all safe ; for, from the boats, and several 
 
 spars having been washed away, on all of which, the ship's 
 name was stamped, it might have been supposed by those 
 who picked them up, that we had foundered at sea. On the 
 6th, at 5, 30, P. M., dropped the best bower anchor in Madeira ; 
 a brig bound to London, was to sail in a few days, and by her 
 an opportunity of easing the minds of our friends as to our 
 safety, who, from the bad weather, we had experienced since 
 our sailing, must have been in the deepest anxiety. During 
 
 our stay here, a young man named M , whom I had known 
 
 for several years a member of a respectable family, went on 
 shore in a boat, of which he was part of the crew. Wine was 
 a rarity to him ; it was abundant and cheap, and the weather 
 hot ; he drank freely, and having once begun, could not stop. 
 
309 
 
 Himself and three more were brought on board in-ar ^horrid 
 
 state of intoxication ; the others recovered, but poor M 
 
 lingered for some weeks, and died a victim to wine, and pos- 
 sibly some bad spirits mixed with it fatal passion for drink, 
 by which man is so often brought into bondage, when exposed 
 to its attacks. Aware of the dangers he not only brings on 
 himself, but perhaps on all hands ; certain, that on board a 
 ship of war, punishment must, and ought to follow, drunken- 
 ness. Unheedful of what may occur, some seamen drink 
 until very frequently life falls a sacrifice to their ruling passion. 
 To me, it appears that drunkenness leaves behind a pang, which 
 poisons every sense of human enjoyment, makes life noteless, 
 and its end terrible. At sea or on shore, if once given way 
 to, it conquers ; gains admittance into the cojttage of the 
 Peasant ; thunders at the portal of the great ; finds its way 
 into the retirement of the sage's chamber, and turns his 
 boasted wisdom into foolishness. 
 
 Having completed with water, obtained a supply of wine, 
 fresh beef, vegetables, fruit, &c., on the 1 1th, we weighed, and 
 in two days were running down the trades. To a stranger, 
 who for the first time in his life, enters those regions of delight, 
 it imparts a pleasure seldom felt before. Steady breezes, all 
 sail set, smooth water, flying fish endeavouring to escape the 
 dolphin, and often flying into his very jaws. The nautilus 
 and the ravenous shark ; shoals of porpoises swimming round 
 the bows, all tend to give employment to the mind, and ren- 
 der the scene pleasing. 
 
 Sunday, May 1st, we got a sight of the Bermudas 5 no 
 part of this numerous group of islands is visible, beyond six- 
 teen or eighteeen miles at most. St. David's head, the highest 
 part of all, is scarcely 1 86 feet above the level of the sea, and 
 for that reason dangerous of access. A mere speck on this vast 
 ocean, it proves a grave to many a hardy tar, whose ship strikes 
 on the many coral reefs with which it is surrounded. The 
 Channel is at all times dangerous, and should by no means 
 
310 
 
 be attempted, without an experienced pilot on board. One of 
 the best pilots on the island, named Smith, took us up, and 
 favoured with a fair and fresh breeze, about noon we anchored 
 
 off the Admiral's house. Here we found the P , the ship 
 
 we came to relieve ; exchanged salutes, and went through all 
 the et ceteras of relieving each other, and thus parted ; the 
 
 P , taking our bag of letters with her. Of all the places 
 
 I ever saw, I think Bermuda, from the anchorage, and from 
 the sea, is most beautiful ; but like a painted doll, it is nothing 
 after all, for its produce is little or nothing. As the ship 
 sailed up on either side of the channel, the gentle rising of 
 the ground, covered with beautiful green brushwood ; the 
 white-washed houses, backed by groves of lofty cedars ; here 
 and there, small villages, and a church, whose high spire 
 attracts the sight, render the island pleasing and interesting 
 to the eye ; but the sight is the only sense it can gratify. 
 Land, and all these bright visions vanish, for then you find 
 that the soil is unproductive and rocky, and refuses to man the 
 reward of, his labour. Only here and there may be seen a 
 small plot of ground, cultivated with immense toil, for pota- 
 toes, and a few of the rough vegetables of other climes ; the 
 only thing which seems to do well here, is arrow-root, which 
 is without doubt, the best in the West Indies. Bread is 
 always dear, never less, and frequently more than three pence 
 sterling, per pound ; fish is also sold by the pound, and the 
 price very high, but it varies. Only some years back, water 
 was by no means scarce, but now that government have 
 placed numerous tanks about the islands, it is sufficiently 
 plentiful. The second Sunday of our stay, I obtained leave 
 to go to Hamilton, the capital of the islands, which, consi- 
 dering the place, is well built, and full of trade ; t spent the 
 day with our pilot, a man of colour, who was married to a 
 white woman, and had a numerous family ; he was a very 
 intelligent man, and from him I experienced that hospitality I 
 could scarcely have hoped for. In the course of conversation, 
 
311 
 
 he told me that he was born a slave, and purchased soon after 
 his birth by his father, who himself was free ; but in conse- 
 quence of having married a slave, the children became the 
 property of the owner of the mother. In the afternoon, I 
 went to chapel, with all his family, and upon the whole, 
 spent the day very comfortably. What a contrast in the past, 
 and present of these now favoured isles : once the habitation 
 of a horde of pirates, who found ample security for themselves 
 in the numerous caves which abound here ; and safety for 
 their vessels, within the reef of coral that surrounds these 
 islands ; waiting to pounce upon the luckless vessel that might 
 heave in sight, and spending their lives in injuring the persons, 
 and properties of their fellow creatures ; since that time, it 
 has been the abode of slavery, where man sold his fellow man, 
 without thought or mercy. 
 
 Now the land of the free, a bright example to this vast Archi- 
 pelago. A brother mason at whose house I had once called, 
 at Hamilton, told me that in six days the anniversary of the 
 abolition of slavery was to be kept. It was not the right day, 
 that being in August, but for some reason, I could not divine, 
 this was appointed. The same person also kindly invited 
 me, if I could obtain leave, to spend the day with him, and 
 view that delightful scene, where every heart, overflowing with 
 gratitude, for the blessings they enjoyed, would join in praying 
 for prosperity, on the' exertions of the great and good men, 
 through whose endeavours they had reached their present 
 happiness by emancipation. 
 
 On the appointed day I again asked for leave, but the ship 
 
 was then under sailing orders. Commander E could not 
 
 grant it, but referred me to Capt. D , who kindly sent me 
 
 on duty. I felt the delicacy of the favour, and was grateful 
 for the indulgence. 
 
 On this ever memorable day to the slave population of 
 Bermuda, I landed early in the morning ; all seemed bustle, 
 but there existed no confusion. The houses of entertainment 
 
312 
 
 at Hamilton, were all decorated with flowers ; the Negroes, 
 dressed in their best, were hastening to the various places of 
 worship, which were filled to excess. 1 however managed to 
 get into one of them ; it was pleasing to see the delight that 
 beamed in every eye, and the fervour with which they responded 
 the hearty Amen, to the various appropriate prayers offered up 
 by the Missionary. After the service was over, each family in 
 good order went to the house appointed, where a good dinner 
 was prepared, for which, in many instances their former master 
 paid; the settled price being one dollar for the males, and 
 three quarters of a dollar for the females, and children above 
 nine years of age ; those under that age were free. The person 
 at whose house I was then a visitor, had managed to provide 
 for seventy of them ; as they sat down to dinner, 1 went in, 
 and in order to avoid that notice, a stranger gazing on them 
 might attract, and possibly marr their comfort, 1 took my 
 jacket off and carried one of the dishes in, and thus was taken 
 either as one of the household or an assistant. How sweet 
 would such a scene have been to the sight of those through 
 whose exertions it was attained ; the view would in my opinion 
 have repaid them for years of labour. Years are gone by 
 since with one united voice, these sons of Africa cried ff oh 
 burst our bonds and set us free," Britannia has heard their 
 imploring cry, and shewn the bright, the noble example. 
 Haste happy day when foreign nations shall follow it. 
 
 As many ceremonies passed during and after dinner, as if 
 the master of the ceremonies at Bath, had been their instructor ; 
 but when the generous wine (of which a certain portion was 
 included in the dinner) began to warm the blood and reach 
 the heads of the gentlemen of colour, it became laughable to 
 hear the toasts that were given ; one old man, the oldest in the 
 company, whose name was Peter Gush, and whose head was 
 silvered over with age, sported a metal watch and a bright 
 steel chain, in the fullness of his heart, gave the first toast. 
 He rose and addressing the party, said, gentlemen, hab a 
 
313 
 
 toast to give, <e may de wing of liberty shine like Peter Gush 
 wash sham," i. e. watch chain. In one moment all the black 
 fists were thundering applause upon the table, and made the 
 glasses ring again. Families were seated together, from the 
 aged grandfather to the babe at the breast. One little group 
 was particularly interesting; the principal person was a 
 stout well-built negro, his wife sat by his side, a tall finely 
 proportioned and really handsome woman, though jet black ; 
 born as I supposed on these islands and descended from Mu- 
 dian parents, she had neither the woolly head,* flat nose, or 
 thick lips of Africa, but a certain dignity of aspect, seldom seen 
 in a black. Her left arm encircled a fine boy, about ten months 
 old, who rested, in the oriental fashion, upon the hip bone, 
 with her body inclined to the right, to preserve her balance ; 
 two little urchins clung to her knees, laughing and showing 
 their fine rows of ivory to advantage. The husband and the 
 father, stood leaning over the back of his chair, looking at his 
 children with an eye, the expression of which seemed to say, 
 ye are now free ; there was a manliness in the expression of 
 his countenance I have seldom seen equalled in men of colour. 
 The whole of the pretty group were so neatly dressed, and 
 decorous in their manners, that I felt my interest in them rising 
 
 every moment. A Mr. T told me afterwards that the man 
 
 with five others had been his property, and from three of them 
 being tradesmen, were worth to him six dollars per day ; at 
 the emancipation, he had valued them as low as he possibly 
 could, but even that had been so curtailed, that he found him- 
 self sinking to ruin ; when providentially he obtained a situation 
 under government, in the victualling department, where he 
 
 now is. Mr. T told me farther, that formerly, when the 
 
 negroes were sold, independently of the important considera- 
 tion of being purchased by good masters, they had a singular 
 species of pride on these occasions of fetching a high price, 
 holding it, among themselves, disgraceful to be sold for a small 
 sum of money. This fact not only shews how difficult it is 
 
 x 
 
314 
 
 entirely to subdue the love of distinction, but may be useful 
 in teaching us, never to take it for granted that any one, 
 bearing the human frame, however degraded in the scale, is 
 without some traces of generous feeling. I have in many 
 instances found it so. and on looking at the animated faces 
 around me, I could see a glow of gratitude which convinced 
 me that the memory of the heart was no stranger to the negro's 
 breast ; dinner over, all sort of games were carried on, which 
 ended the day. Next forenoon, I went to one of the schools, 
 under the superintendence of the Wesleyan Missionary, in- 
 tended for negro as well as mulatto children ; it was another 
 interesting scene in the course of this busy day ; they were 
 ranged on seats round a very large room ; not a murmur was 
 to be heard, except when any particular class were repeating 
 their lessons, a mouse might have been heard in the room. 
 Poor little creatures, their whole hearts seemed to be thrown 
 into their lessons ; they were instructed by a man who had been 
 accustomed to teach negroes, and who had devoted many years 
 of his life exclusively to the subject ; he told me that even in 
 Bermuda, where slavery is entirely done away with, a black 
 man meets with no real esteem or sympathy on the part of 
 the white lords of the creation ; consequently let the negro be 
 ever so industrious or well informed, still he seemed stamped 
 with degradation. Mutual confidence, the most important link 
 of society is broken, and when this is the case, there is no 
 other method of attaching to its interest a class of beings so 
 circumstanced, between whom and the whites, all fellow feeling 
 is invariably prevented from growing up. 
 
 Temperance societies are forming all over the island ; many 
 of the sober minded population aware of the frightful evils 
 of drunkenness, are making great efforts to check its effects, 
 particularly among the blacks ; little success has as yet atten- 
 ded their exertions. 
 
 On the 24th, at 9, A. M., weighed and made sail. At noon, 
 on passing St. David's Head, the thermometer was up to 84, 
 
315 
 
 and on the following Thursday, about 180 miles South of Cape 
 Chapeau rouge, the wind suddenly veered to N. W., the ther- 
 mometer sunk to 28J, and the weather was thick, which made 
 it dangerous to near the land. On the morning of the 28th, we 
 fell in with a shallop, riding on the outer banks. On the 30th, 
 came to, off the Dock-yard, and commenced a complete refit ; 
 the snow was still on the ground in several of the inland parts, 
 which makes vegetation very late ; but when it does grow, 
 it grows rapidly. 
 
 In June, a large tribe of Indians came out of the woods 
 where they had wintered, and employed themselves in making 
 various articles of use and ornament for the Halifax Market ; 
 there were from 60 to 80 huts, or wigwams, each containing 
 one family, and the whole under one Chief. One fine after- 
 noon in July, being on leave, I took a walk to their village, 
 and remained there above three hours, looking among the old 
 faces, if I could see the features of any I had once known ; but 
 I saw none. The many years, and great changes that had taken 
 place, no doubt altered them, so that neither of us could have 
 recognized the other. Their manners were unimproved ; huts 
 built the same, simply with three poles (some have but one), 
 in the shape of a triangle, covered with the bark of the birch 
 tree, which taken off* at certain seasons, answers well for the 
 purpose. Under this frail covering, the Indian and all his 
 family stretch their weary limbs at night, with their feet to the 
 fire, which occupies the middle of the wigwam ; and there rest 
 with as much security, as if surrounded by stone walls. If he 
 obtains a sufficiency of food, he is careless and fearless of what 
 may follow. At night, they light fires at the water's edge, 
 which attracts great numbers of lobsters to the shore, which 
 they catch, and in a great measure supply the market. Not the 
 slightest difference existed in the house of the Chief; all were 
 filthy alike, and disagreable to sight and smell. The dress of 
 their Chief was far more gaudy than any of his tribe. He was 
 
 x2 
 
316 
 
 a fine well-built man of about forty ; his dress consisted of a 
 sky blue frock coat, thickly edged with red tape ; a sort of 
 epaulet of the same, with long ends hanging down in front ; 
 waistcoat of a particular cut^ with buttons made from a small 
 Spanish silver coin ; trowsers fitting tight at the knee, and 
 then becoming extremely broad, ending in the form of a gaiter, 
 and edged also with red tape ; mocassins made from seal skin, 
 thickly laid over with porcupine's quills ; large silver rings in 
 his ears, and from his neck hung a large silver cross, from a 
 chain of the same metal. He seemed void of pride, and al- 
 though I did not expect much courtesy, I ventured to address 
 him, and was immediately answered ; he spoke good English, 
 but from his constant intercourse with the Canadians, he pre- 
 ferred French. We had a long chat, during which he told 
 me that nearly all his tribe had been baptized by a Catholic 
 Priest, and that they attended divine worship regularly. I 
 went into his wigwam, and even that of the Chief of a nume- 
 rous tribe of Indians, presented a scene of confusion and filth. 
 All of them had taken some English name ; one among them 
 from whom I purchased a pair of mocassins, was named James 
 Powell. He told me that the Commander-in-chief, three years 
 before, on his visiting him, had presented him with six bottles 
 of gun-powder, of which from its large grain, the Indians, as 
 well as Newfoundlanders, are particularly fond. In one of the 
 huts of this Indian encampment, I saw a young girl, a most 
 interesting object ; she had nothing at all of the Indian look, 
 nor any thing of it in her person : her face was dirty from 
 the smoke of the fire, but if clean, it would have been fair ; 
 her hair light auburn, and her features pleasing ; her whole 
 appearance spoke something superior to the Indians. Sup- 
 posing her a Canadian, I spoke French to her, but received 
 no answer to several questions. She seemed determined not 
 to speak, and either would not, or could not understand me. 
 I enquired from some one near who she was, b,ut none seemed 
 
317 
 
 inclined to satisfy my curiosity, and I left them, convinced 
 that something very particular was the cause of her dwelling 
 there ; at all events it could not be compulsion. 
 
 September 23rd, 1836, just before sunset, the telegraph 
 announced that a vessel was on shore off the light house, 
 without saying which house light it was. An immediate 
 order was issued for all boats to aid the vessel in distress ; 
 the light boats were sent off to wards Sambro, while the launch 
 was ordered to repair to Major's Beach. The boat was im- 
 mediately manned, and only waiting for the officer, when 
 
 Commander E looking over the gangway, asked me what 
 
 I waited for ; I answered for Mr. , sir. " Shove off," said 
 
 the Commander, and away I went. Very soon after, it came 
 on very dark, and the wind which was at S. W., freshened with 
 small rain ; I had to make several tacks, so that it was nine 
 o'clock before I got outside of the light house ; hot far from 
 which is Thrum Cap Shoal, a most dangerous place for vessels 
 not well acquainted with the place. As we neared it, we 
 could distinguish between us and the horizon, the form of 
 a vessel on the shoal ; I immediately let go the anchor, and 
 veered all my cable out 45 fathoms, but with that she drifted, 
 and it was likely that without prompt exertions we should soon 
 be alongside the Zephyr (which was her name) ; and instead 
 of assisting, share her fate. The anchor was weighed, the 
 main-sheet hauled aft, and I stood on the stern sheets watching 
 the paying off of the boat's head, the tiller between my legs, 
 when the main sheet gave way, the outer block of which striking 
 me on the head, knocked me clean overboard. It certainly 
 was a careless posture to stand in just then, and I paid dearly 
 for it. The last thing I can recollect was hearing one of the 
 
 men exclaim f( oh my God, there is poor B overboard," 
 
 if any one ever felt the dreadful pressure of the water while 
 sinking ; the rushing it makes in his ears, the confused ideas 
 that fill his head, he may judge how I felt ; my wife, my 
 children, crowded before me, in the horrors of that moment; 
 
318 
 
 I must at last have lost my senses, for the sea rolled me across 
 the Zephyr's chain cable, and most probably the sudden con- 
 cussion brought me to, for by a convulsive grasp I hauled 
 myself up, and was again letting go my hold, when a power- 
 ful hand caught my collar, and I heard with joy " you are safe 
 my boy ;" I was rolled for sometime on an empty cask, no very 
 pleasing remedy, though it occasioned me to throw up what 
 water I had swallowed; for sometime I had not power to 
 utter a word, though perfectly sensible ; I however recovered. 
 It became moderate and fine, our light boats returned, and 
 one of them put me into the launch; next morning we 
 lightened the Zephyr, and the next night she floated off and 
 was got safe alongside the wharf. A committee of merchants 
 assembled to consider the reward to be given to the salvors, 
 when it was agreed to give the officers who went out to 
 Sambro a certain sum, to each of the men five shillings, and 
 to those who had been all night about the wreck fifteen shil- 
 lings each man. Halifax is now so well surveyed, and so well 
 known, that it may be supposed every master of a merchant 
 vessel is acquainted with it, but as the Zephyr's going on the 
 shoal, proves that not to be the case, I would advise the 
 masters of merchant vessels, (and I speak from frequently 
 entering and going out myself, when in charge of a vessel) to 
 bring Sambro light to bear W. N. W., and then bear up to 
 N. -J W., which takes you exactly to the Tower on George's 
 Island. No lead is required in the darkest night ; half twelve 
 will be the general sounding ; and \ a cables length is suffi- 
 cient offing for Major's Beach, which is left on the starboard 
 quarter, and so astern as you go on. 
 
 On the 1 7th August a regatta took place, at which all the 
 amateur boats met ; it was intended that they should first 
 start, but from the very little wind, the preference was given 
 to the galleys ; the race was to be a distance of nearly three 
 miles, and back round George's Island ; next to the galleys, 
 started twelve Indian Canoes with males, which after an 
 
319 
 
 admirably contested race was won by a fine powerful young 
 Indian, named Jones. Twelve canoes paddled by females, 
 was the most amusing, for such was their eagerness to 
 gain the prize, (twelve dollars) that the canoes frequently 
 paddled foul of each other ; and before they got back, two of 
 them were capsized, giving the females in it a complete 
 ducking, without the least notice being taken of it by their 
 companions, who paddled on as if unconscious of the event ; 
 leaving them to recover their gravity in the best way they 
 could. An old woman won the race, and was received at 
 the starting buoy with loud cheers. Amateur boats were 
 
 next, among which was the M : 's launch, bearing the white 
 
 and green flag, presented by the lovely Miss -, who, on 
 
 giving the flag, also gave her the name Kate-, there was 
 nothing very interesting in this race. 
 
 Great preparations had been made for a ball on board the 
 ship ; given by the officers, to all the nobility and gentry ol 
 Halifax. Some days before, the ship had been hauled close to 
 the jetty, and fitted up with care and attention. From the jetty 
 to the ship, (about forty yards long,) a bridge was erected, 
 well covered over with canvas, the inside neatly lined with 
 flags in festoons, mixed with evergreens; at the entrance, 
 was a very large burner with reflectors, one in the middle and 
 the third at the inner end ; which gave an opening view of the 
 upper deck, or ball room. The awnings had been raised 
 twenty feet from the deck, and completely lined with flags and 
 standards of foreign nations. 1 he Standard of England, and 
 Flag of France, waved gracefully at the upper end of the room, 
 which of course was the after part of the ship. Over head, and 
 in the cent&t^ was hung an immense chandelier, composed of 
 three large hoops, to which were attached all the marine's 
 bayonets, inverted, and large wax lights in each of the sockets; 
 which from the brightness of the bayonets, gave a dazzling 
 light. At either end hung another smaller chandelier, and 
 rows of lanthorns adorned the sides. In the center, and 
 
320 
 
 before the quarter-deck, were rows of evergreens, forming 
 pleasant walks, and terminating in a bower called love's bower. 
 Every thing that rose above a level had been removed, leaving 
 all smooth for the dancers; the ship's company except a 
 
 chosen few, had gone to the P ; the main deck was a sort 
 
 of promenade, where those fatigued with dancing or oppressed 
 with heat could walk. The lower deck presented the most 
 pleasing sight after all ; the fore part near the manger was 
 parted, off by a sort of grating made from boarding pikes, on 
 each side of which were rows of evergreens intermixed with 
 variegated lamps. The after part, at the gun-room bulkhead, 
 was also adorned with evergreens and flags, with lamps and 
 reflectors ; on each side of the deck was a table ninety-eight 
 feet long, and seven and a half broad, groaning under the 
 weight of provisions. Delicacies of all kinds were there, the 
 produce of all climes, no one thing seemed to have been ne- 
 glected ; one general feeling of liberality seemed to pervade the 
 whole ; here then above four hundred ladies and gentlemen 
 spent the evening, and such an assemblage of female beauty 
 was seldom seen. From the brunette of Nova Scotia, to the fair 
 of our happy clime, here, as every where else, England's fair 
 daughters bore the palm ; dancing continued till long after day 
 light. By six all were gone, and the ball room perfectly quiet ; 
 tired myself, I laid down under one of the tables, and had a 
 comfortable siesta ; the ball room was left in statu quo, for 
 several days, to gratify the curiosity of the good people of Hali- 
 fax, who were permitted a passage through the yard to view it. 
 August 27th, an awful fire broke out at ten at night, at a 
 brewery, nearly in the centre of the town ; the fire bell soon 
 announced the dreadful calamity, doubly so, because nearly 
 all the houses were built of wood, and so connected one with 
 the other, that if one takes fire, the others mostly follow. Boats' 
 crews and firemen were immediately sent to assist, and shortly 
 tiller eleven, the first engine commenced playing ; to attempt 
 to put the fire out, was useless, the only object was to stop its 
 
321 
 
 further progress; for which purpose, it was necessary to 
 tear down several houses, over which the wind blew the sparks. 
 The fire continued raging sixteen hours, during which, thirty 
 four houses were completely burnt to the ground, some of 
 which were inhabited by two or more families, who having 
 laid in their stock of fuel and provisions for the approaching 
 winter, were in one hour deprived of their little all, and left 
 upon the wide world, exposed to misery and want. One poor 
 woman, who had been just awoke in time to save her life, on 
 coming to the door, the recollection of something she had left 
 behind burst upon her memory ; she rushed back through the 
 flames, and only a few steps in, fell among the burning ruins, 
 and would without any doubt have perished, but for a gallant 
 
 youth, a mate of our ship, named W , who thoughtless of 
 
 his own danger, sprung through the flames, and brought her 
 out senseless in his arms. 
 
 Not far from the fire, resided a very aged lady, then above 
 eighty years of age, the mother of one of the foremen of the 
 Dock-yard ; I once had been at her house, and been kindly 
 treated by the venerable old woman. In the course of the 
 night, I observed that the sparks were blowing over and 
 beyond her house ; I soon got four of my boat's crew as volun- 
 teers, went round to her house, and finding that all were up, 
 and the house likely soon to ignite, removed all the furniture 
 into the middle of an adjoining piece of ground, which lay 
 uncultivated, and assisted her to remove to a house out of 
 danger. An engine soon came, and having saturated the house 
 well with water, prevented further damage. When all was 
 over, myself and the same men removed the furniture back 
 to its former place, nothing lost or mislaid, and scarcely 
 injured. During the exertions of the night, and chief part 
 of the day, I felt much thirst, but no desire to eat. The 
 Captain never for one moment left the spot; both himself and 
 the Commander were employed in directing the labours of 
 the men, and although there were men from three different 
 
322 
 
 ships, no irregularity or misconduct took place; all were 
 active and willing; indeed I have frequently observed that 
 where fires take place, on shore, in foreign parts, all seems lost 
 until Jack makes his appearance, when all becomes activity 
 and bustle. A few days after, the Captain conveyed to us the 
 approbation of the Admiral, and thanks of the inhabitants of 
 the town, who were, said they, convinced, that to our exertions 
 might be attributed the safety of the lower part of the town ; 
 thus we were left to refit upon thanks. 
 
 Some persons run away with a foolish idea, that a seaman is 
 above receiving a recompense for doing his duty ; and with- 
 out doubt, they are so, when that duty is imposed on them by 
 the laws of their country ; but when humanity alone calls on 
 them, and their greatest exertions are required to save life 
 and property, though it still may be a duty, it is a very dif- 
 ferrent case from the other. Who ever saw the British tar 
 backward; does not the glow of enthusiasm fill his bosom, as he 
 enters upon an arduous undertaking, and does he then only 
 deserve bare thanks ? Thanks alone, will not go far in soothing 
 the pain of scorched limbs, or in replacing a blue jacket, when 
 scorched and rendered useless ; as was among many others, my 
 case in this, and other shore fires. I was several days in the 
 Surgeon's list, and for weeks obliged to attend him to dress 
 my left hand, which had been dreadfully burnt in taking hold 
 of a red hot graplin, which having been so often in the fire, 
 destroying the houses, it at last became impossible to use 
 it more. 
 
 On the 20th, one of the first Merchants in Halifax wishing 
 to go up another arm of the bay, to a country seat of his, at 
 a considerable distance, the launch, which was completely a 
 yacht, was lent him, myself in charge, and six of the most 
 steady men of her crew. The whole family, consisting of two 
 young gentlemen, whom I took to be his sons, and three 
 daughters, with a friend who occupied the afterpart of the 
 boat; while the lockers were well stowed with sundry baskets of 
 
323 
 
 provisions, accompanied by many bottles of wine, ale, porter, 
 &c., which promised an ample supply of the good things of 
 this world to the boat's crew, myself of course included. 
 Favoured with a fine breeze, and a beautiful day at noon, we 
 
 arrived at the spot where Mr. C and his family intended 
 
 to spend the day ; there was but one house near it, and a few 
 straggling huts. Having no officer over me, I promised 
 myself a comfortable cruize, out of hearing of the shrill pipe, 
 nor was I deceived ; I did enjoy myself far more than I could 
 have expected, away from those I loved. Among the party, 
 was a sweet little boy, the very picture of one of my own ; 
 fair, with light hair, hanging down over his shoulders ; even 
 his frock, though possibly of better materials, was the same 
 colour ; moreover, I felt interested in the lovely boy. Who 
 has ever looked into the face of childhood, without feelings of 
 the deepest anxiety, as to its future fate ? We know that if life 
 remains, the smooth brow must wrinkle with age, the bright 
 eye grow dim, and worse than all, the young small heart that 
 beats so calmly within its intricate breast, must become worn 
 and hackneyed in the world's ways. Life, whether spent in a 
 palace, or a cottage, is a continued miracle ; the most won- 
 derful miracle of him, whose name is wonderful. 
 
 But to return. A marquee was very soon spread; mats laid 
 on the ground for tables ; provisions brought on shore ; and as 
 soon as this amiable family had finished their meal, the boat's 
 crew were called to replace them, and desired to enjoy them- 
 selves ; and we certainly did credit to our good cheer. At 
 night, the family slept in the house, leaving myself and the 
 men to look out for ourselves ; with the square sail we made 
 an awning, lit a fire in the stove, and slept soundly in the 
 sternsheets of the boat. By ten, the next morning, the party 
 were again in the boat ; the boat shoved off, and going on her 
 way upward. At one o'clock, we arrived at the place of our 
 destination. During the day's journey, a general conversation 
 was kept up amonp: the family, sometimes asking me ques- 
 
324 
 
 tions about ships of war, and other subjects ; at last, one of 
 the young ladies began addressing the others in French, and 
 from what passed, I found that none of the gentlemen present 
 understood one word of it. While the conversation continued 
 on indifferent subjects, I said nothing, but when I found that 
 it turned upon things, which I knew could not be intended 
 for my ears, I dropped the tiller, and addressing the person 
 who first spoke French, said, pardon me miss, but whatever 
 you may have to say to each other, that you do not wish 
 others to hear, do not say it in French or Italian, for I 
 understand both perfectly ; vermillion could scarcely have 
 given a finer tinge to the cheeks of the person I addressed. 
 
 Mr. C , said, " well coxswain, that certainly is generous 
 
 of you, for had you held your tongue, you might have got 
 possession of all their little secrets. 
 
 Three days elapsed, and we again proceeded homeward : 
 during which, while steering, I of course sat almost among 
 this interesting family, frequently amusing myself with the 
 innocent prattle of the charming boy. During the last day 
 
 Mr. C asked me a great many questions about my former 
 
 life, possibly at first merely to employ himself, but I observed 
 at last, he became interested in my replies, and when I landed 
 
 the party at his own wharf, Mr. C said to me in the 
 
 kindest manner, " well coxswain should you at the expiration 
 of your twenty-one years revisit Halifax, from personal obser- 
 vation, as well as from general character, I will insure you 
 good employment; 5 ' I felt sincerely grateful. There is a 
 French Proverb which warns us never to say Fontaine, je ne 
 boirai jamais de ton eau ; I thought possibly I might be in 
 want of employment, and Halifax would be a good port 
 under my lee. 
 
 Now in a few days a total change took place, the leaves 
 dropped off the trees, vegetation drooped, and nothing re- 
 mained to cheer the eye in all the gardens, save the evergreens, 
 and even these presented yellow boughs. On the 17th, the 
 
325 
 
 Commander-in-chiePs family came on board, and at 2, P. M. 
 the bridles were shipped amid a heavy shower of snow, and a 
 heavy breeze at N. E., and the ship scudded beautifully along 
 the town, and then to the Southward into more genial climes. 
 Only three days after, the thermometer had again risen to 68^ ; 
 one, among many changes, the constitution of the seaman has 
 to bear; 22nd, we again came to off Little Ireland, the Naval 
 Dock-yard, at Bermuda. 
 
 Only a few days from our arrival, several of our men went 
 on shore, merely for an afternoon's recreation. I was one of 
 the number, but not feeling any relish for such company as 
 they were likely to meet with, I got one of the Mudians to 
 accompany me into one of those immense caves, so common 
 in these islands. The hollow, or as it was called the cave, 
 which I went to, was one, which in mining, had been lately 
 discovered ; and from its vast extent, was likely even to injure 
 the foundation of the house, not many years before built for 
 the residence of the Commodore of the Dock-yard. From 
 this place I collected, with infinite labour, a valuable collection 
 of stones, congealed waters, &c. With as much as I could well 
 carry, and that was no great deal, from the ruggedness of the 
 ascent, I hastened to the top, and returned for one single piece, 
 much resembling an icicle, which I found hanging from the 
 roof. On my re-ascending a second time, however all my 
 specimens were gone gone as if by magic, not a vestige of 
 them left ; no soul in sight, nor had either of us seen any 
 one. All endeavours to find them were unavailing; my 
 labour was lost, and what became of them has ever been a 
 mystery to me. 
 
 ax^ 
 
 cX 
 
326 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 There are mysteries in Heaven, in the Earth, and in the Ocean, which move 
 the Sage to meditate, the Poet to think, and the Fool to laugh ; but they are 
 alike, inscrutable to all. 
 
 AND thus it proved with my specimens, I never found out 
 what became of them. Our next place of destination was 
 Jamaica ; a certain dread of going to the West Indies, hung 
 upon my mind, which I found it impossible to overcome. I 
 was aware it was a weakness and a folly, but it nevertheless 
 remained ; 1 verily believe that many a man owes his death 
 to the dread of a sickly climate, and not taking the necessary 
 precautions to secure health. If I dare offer any advice to a 
 friend about to visit such a climate, I would say, never touch 
 spirits ; as little wine as possible ; never check the perspiration, 
 and bathe at evening and morning regularly, if you can, and 
 above all keep out of the dew ; such was my routine, and I 
 enjoyed my health perfectly well. It will possibly be a mat- 
 ter of doubt to some, but the M , a ship bearing 430 men 
 
 upon her books, was in Jamaica 14 days, and not one single 
 man on the Surgeon's list. 
 
 On the 1st of February, we entered Port Royal, with the 
 sea breeze, and anchored off the Dock-yard. The first thing 
 
327 
 
 that strikes the eye of a stranger on entering Port Royal, is 
 the palisades, a long low point covered with small brushwood, 
 and thickly studded with grave stones; a place where thousands 
 of our countrymen lie, having fallen victims to the ravages of 
 fever incident to this fatal climate. At first sight it is well 
 calculated to impress the mind with dread, and calls on us 
 to prepare, for ours may be the next grave filled up. During 
 our stay at Port Royal, I was daily sent fishing, and once 
 landed, near the palisades, to haul the seine. Determined to see 
 the place, although I had to wade up to my middle in water, 
 I got across, and found the graves so thick, that it was impos- 
 sible to tread clear of them. Land crabs are in great numbers, 
 and make one shudder as they start from among the verdure 
 on your approach ; which I suppose gave rise to a saying the 
 negroes use, when they quarrel with the whites, " ah, massa, 
 land crab hab you by and by." 
 
 I had one single jaunt to Kingston, which, if healthy, would 
 be a pleasant place ; but the heat is excessive, as above it a 
 range of high mountains rear their heads, which prevent the 
 sea breeze from having its proper effect, in dispersing the 
 foul vapours hanging over the town. It seems to me that an 
 inhabitant of Kingston can seldom breathe pure air. Shortly 
 after our arrival, dispatches were received from Carthagena, 
 stating that for some cause, just or unjust, his Britannic 
 Majesty's consul was a prisoner in a loathsome dungeon ; ap- 
 plication had been repeatedly made to the Authorities for his 
 release, but with no effect. Soon after the arrival of the dis- 
 patches, the signal flew, "prepare to sail at dawn." At 4, A. M., 
 
 the M was under a crowd of canvas, taking advantage of 
 
 the land breeze, followed by n frigate of 44 guns and two brigs. 
 About the 6th, both ships came to in very shallow water, 
 and before the anchor was well down, a telegraph announced 
 that the Consul was free ; all hope of seeing a shot fired in 
 anger, was by this done away. I had a very old debt to pay 
 myself to these same Carthagenians ; for many years since 
 
328 
 
 my poor father, while trading in these seas, was wrecked not 
 far from this place ; only himself and his chief mate escaped, 
 all the rest perished, and the vessel went to pieces. After 
 suffering hardships almost beyond bearing, they found their 
 way to Carthagena, where,, almost starved, they were made 
 prisoners, and as Englishmen, and heretics, subjected to 
 every species of insult. I saw the log of the vessel, which 
 had been continued years afterward, and their sufferings 
 must have been dreadful. Now though I freely forgave, I 
 could not forget, and should like well to have had one or two 
 shot at their batteries, just to make them pay to the British 
 Flag, that respect which is its due. The satisfaction de- 
 manded was given, and the M returned to Port Royal, 
 
 leaving a frigate to see tranquillity restored. 
 
 On the 1st of March, at 5, p. M., we again took in the 
 mooring bridle in Port Royal. A stream anchor was im- 
 mediately laid out to bring the ship's broadside to the wind ; 
 both ports being. jWell up, it admits a free circulation of air. 
 and blows off every thing unpleasant; and for the time of 
 the succeeding calm, the decks remain cool and comfortable. 
 Care and attention of Commanding Officers and Surgeons in 
 the West Indies, as well as other hot climates, tend, in a great 
 measure to prevent sickness, and when come, to prevent 
 
 its progress, as in the case of the M ; for I never yet 
 
 heard of a ship of 74 guns being in Port Royal so long, and 
 not a man on the Surgeon's list. On the arrival of the dis- 
 patches, it was found that the Admiral had been promoted to 
 blue at the main, and that it was expected we should im- 
 mediately return to England. 
 
 15th, slipped the moorings for the Grand Cayman, and on 
 the l?th, at 10, p. M., we saw the fires made by the people on 
 the Cayman, to attract fish on shore. Next evening came 
 to, but the ship swinging in shore, she was found too close, and 
 the anchor was again weighed, and we stood off and on all night. 
 Sunday morning, several boats came off to the ship with 
 
329 
 
 turtle and fish of different kinds, and abundance of curious 
 shells which were sold very cheap, and were eagerly bought 
 by the seamen as curiosities. Such is the danger of the Grand 
 Cayman to ships, that it is seldom without wrecks ; only a 
 few days before our arrival, a brig, the Mary of New York, 
 struck on the South-side of it, and there remained ; the crew 
 were all saved. Of late years, many families from the West India 
 Islands have emigrated here, for the purpose of catching turtle 
 to supply the markets. Several small vessels are constantly 
 kept running to and from the islands ; two were loading at the 
 time of our being there. 20th, we left the Cayman, from the 
 Havannah, and after a very fine run, on the 24th, hove to out- 
 side of the Havannah. It being Good Friday, a day of which 
 all good Catholics think much, all was bustle and confusion. 
 There were in the port an old Spanish line of battle ship, two 
 frigates, and several smaller vessels ; all had their yards topped 
 in deep mourning, and to several of their fore yard-arms was 
 hung an effigy of Judas. The merchant vessels had only 
 their colours half mast, except here and there, where some par- 
 ticular devotee lay, who followed in the wake of the ships of war. 
 The English and Americans had none up. The Spanish 
 Admiral came out to pay his respects to the British Flag. 
 Our boats went on shore, in one of which I was ; on landing, 
 I could not help observing how widely different the slaves look 
 to those of the West India Islands : here it seemed to me that 
 a deep dejection was visible in every black face. One of 
 the Negroes at the landing place, told me, that to them all 
 days, all hours were alike ; there was no respite from labour, 
 no time for recreation ; and although each had a small portion 
 of land allowed him, his time was so taken up, that it either 
 lay idle or produced so little as to pay nothing. 
 
 Among the many vessels laying here, it is easy to distinguish 
 those employed in the traffic of slaves ; the sharpness of their 
 build, neat rigging and trim appearance, but too well denote 
 the fatal trade they are engaged in ; and although Cuba is sur- 
 
330 
 
 rounded with cruisers, and the African Rivers blockaded up, 
 still many slavers escape. 26th, we made sail for Bermuda : on 
 the passage, a heavy gale came on, which lasted about thirty 
 hours, the flashes of lightning were really awful ; one flash 
 completely deprived me of sight for several minutes, and slip- 
 ping my foot, 1 fell into the waist and put my shoulder out of 
 joint. The pain was very great ; the Surgeon every day com- 
 forted me with better to-morrow/ 5 but many a sad to-morrow 
 came and went, and I still suffered. April 3rd, we again 
 anchored in Bermuda ; during our present stay, a large barque, 
 on her way from Marseilles to New York, during a heavy gale, 
 ran on the rocks ; providentially she ran over the outer reef, and 
 perched herself on two rocks of coral, on an inner reef, by 
 which means the crew saved themselves in their boats ; but 
 the cargo which consisted of wine, silks, and sulphur, was 
 nearly all lost, or so far damaged as to sell for little or nothing. 
 For several weeks the wreckers found full employment. 
 
 As it was known among the ship's company that our orders 
 for England had arrived, every one was anxious to sail as soon 
 as possible. Seamen in general love a wandering life ; change 
 of scene is necessary to keep them in tune ; however comfortable 
 his ship may be, he is not satisfied, but wisnes for a change. 
 For my part, strange as it may appear, had I, as a petty officer 
 or an able seaman, the choice of two ships ; the one where every 
 man did nearly as he chose; or one where discipline was 
 carried on rigidly ; without undue severity, the latter should 
 be my choice, and the latter would without doubt be the most 
 comfortable. 
 
 16th April, we slipped the moorings, with light winds and 
 favourable, and gently glided along the glossy surface of the 
 water, saluting and saluted as we passed, and took a farewell 
 look at the Bermudas. Even to a strange place, " farewell" 
 seems a painful word ; how must it then be, when it is home 
 we leave ; but "the hope of return, takes the sting from adieu." 
 As we passed St. George's, the Military band played, " Thy 
 
331 
 
 sailor lad must bid good bye/' ours, " The girl I left behind 
 me." During the first three days of our passage, we had 
 fresh breezes at S. W. ; on the fourth day, at two in the mor- 
 ning, the wind suddenly shifted directly to the opposite quarter, 
 bringing with it, a heavy shower of hail and snow, so that the 
 thermometer, which at midnight was up to 66, at four o'clock 
 was down to 42J ; a change so sudden and uncommon, had a 
 sensible effect upon all hands ; and as we neared the Coast of 
 North America, the cold increased, so that on the 20th, when 
 we came to an anchor, it was four degrees below the freezing 
 point. A slight refit of only a few days, and we were ready 
 for our expected relief. 
 
 Even at this season, advanced as it is, when our own 
 country is rich in all the bloom of summer, Halifax is bitter 
 cold, which is doubly felt by those just come from a hot climate ; 
 the days indeed were pretty mild, but no sooner does the sun 
 dip the horizon, than it again freezes. Time seemed to have 
 fled fast ; sixteen full months had gone by, since I stood on the 
 poop, gazing wistfully on the loved spot, which though fettered 
 in the chains of winter, was to me full of beauty ; and which I 
 knew contained hearts rich in all the plentitude of love and 
 duty. May 28th, I was sent away with an officer, and a party 
 of twenty-five men, to cut stuff to make brooms. It was early 
 in the morning when we left the ship, and fortunately had 
 taken two days provisions ; the morning was beautiful, we 
 proceeded almost to the top of the immense bason, about a 
 mile and a half from the Indian villages ; all hands landed, 
 and took the necessary utensils for cooking dinner ; while I 
 attended the party at work, the officer went to a neighbouring 
 pond to fish for trout. About one o'clock, all assembled to 
 dinner, but long before it was over, the sky became overcast, 
 wind veered to S. S. W., and one of those quick changes of 
 weather, so common at that time of the year came on, which soon 
 brought with it a regular gale. The launch's anchor came 
 home, she drifted on shore, and perched herself on the rocks, 
 
332 
 
 without damaging herself at all. Torrents of rain fell, and it 
 blew so very hard, that had the boat been afloat, we had no 
 hope of getting her down to the ship ; to sit down under a 
 tree was but poor shelter, it became necessary to look for belter 
 quarters for the night. I proposed to tjie officer to bury our- 
 selves in the very thickest of the wood, take the sails, and 
 with them, make a tent, light a good fire, and thus rest for 
 the night. The officer agreed to my proposal ; having secured 
 the launch to a tree, in the event of her floating, we took her 
 main-sail and jibs, and went into a thick grove of firs and 
 birch trees, lashed a spar between two trees, cleared away the 
 brushwood, and stretched the main-sail taut across the spar ; 
 securing the lower part well down to the ground, one of the 
 jibs at each end ; it was then quite secure from rain. From 
 the fir trees round us, we cut a great quantity of the flat 
 boughs, these we laid at the bottom of the tent, thus making 
 a sort of bed. Birch, wet or dry, burns bright ; we soon lit a 
 good fire not far from the tent, got the kettle on, had supper, 
 dried our clothes, and although the wind blew and the rain 
 fell, it was unheeded ; we slept (at least I did) sound. Now 
 possibly the reader may think this description of the night 
 needless ; to many it may be so, but it may fall into the hands 
 of some, who, situated as we were, and unused to act, might 
 neglect to make the efforts necessary to insure comfort 5 injur- 
 ing health, and possibly life, by sitting moping in the wet and 
 cold all night, when, by a little exertion, they might obtain a 
 comparatively comfortable lodging, and a good night's sleep. 
 The tent was not very large ; twenty-six of us rested in it ; 
 there was no choice of place, and no room to spare. I did 
 not awake till the sun was high above the horizon ; it still blew 
 a gale, but the rain had ceased, and the boat was afloat. 
 Towards noon it became moderate ; the wind favouring us, we 
 loaded the boat, and at six in the evening we lashed her along- 
 side the Dock-yard. 
 
 Sunday, June 4th, after a heavy fall of rain, one of the 
 
333 
 
 most awful storms of thunder and lightning that had been 
 known for many years, came on about three o'clock. In the 
 ship every precaution was taken to prevent danger, all the iron 
 work was covered over, also the guns and pumps. A few 
 minutes past three, just after a heavy clap of thunder, which 
 shook the ship, the electric fluid fell into the middle of a plot 
 of ground belonging to the naval hospital, on one side of which 
 were three houses inhabited, one by our Captain, the others 
 by persons belonging to the victualling department ; on the 
 other side was the rum and bread store. The ball separated, 
 and each part took opposite directions ; one passing close over 
 the Captain's house, the other struck the rum and bread 
 store, and completely severed the end of the building, cutting 
 it to the ground. A large column of smoke issuing from the 
 orifice led us to suppose the store would soon be in a blaze ; 
 the fire bell tolled its alarming peals, and in a few minutes the 
 Dock-yard engines were on the spot manned by our men, and 
 those of the Dock-yard, that could be hastily called in ; the 
 doors were broken open, but the smoke prevented any one 
 from approaching. The engines continued playing above 
 half an hour, by which time the smoke somewhat cleared away, 
 and a few of us ventured into the building ; but even then it 
 was difficult to breathe, and for some moments I feared that we 
 
 should have to retreat. The voice of Capt. D was heard 
 
 close behind, and as some of our officers advanced, (of course 
 going back was out of the question) on examining the 
 puncheons of rum, it was found that the fire had entirely con- 
 sumed the chimes of one of them : the rest were untouched. 
 There were at the time several thousand gallons of rum, and 
 if one had caught fire, nothing could have saved the rest. 
 The house was covered with canvas and secured for the time 
 being, and we had the pleasure of hearing that the Comman- 
 der-in-chief highly approved of our conduct. Repeated ex- 
 posure to the wet the last week, and over exertion this day, 
 so powerfully affected my health, that on my way to the boat 
 
334 
 
 I fell senseless on the ground ; some of the men assisted me 
 
 up, and Capt D , who came by just at the time ordered 
 
 me to be taken on board in his own gig ; and by his kindness 
 I was most probably saved from a heavy fit of sickness ; as it 
 was, I remained in the Surgeon's list several days, before I could 
 resume duty, 
 
 At the latter end of June, a court martial was assembled, to 
 try one of our petty officers for an alleged robbery ; and after 
 a most patient investigation of two days, during which sixteen 
 witnesses spoke in favour of the prisoner ; he was fully ac- 
 quitted. Having been acquainted with the young man, 
 knowing him to be a member of a respectable family, when 
 the verdict of acquittal was pronounced, I felt a relief I can 
 scarcely describe; but what must have been his feelings, confined 
 for nearly two months in the deep recesses of a line of battle 
 ship's cockpit, subject to suspicion, which, from circumstances, 
 almost amounted to certainty of guilt ? Suffering under men- 
 tal, as well as bodily trouble, on the charge of a man, who was 
 ultimately proved to have sworn false. Few courts have 
 created more interest : sincerely as I respected the prisoner 
 before, my interest was heightened by the noble and manly 
 manner in which he bore his sufferings. When the trial was 
 nearly ended, and he was called upon for former character, the 
 first 'who was appealed to, was his prosecutor ; the Captain 
 of the ship and most of the officers spoke for him, and when 
 the minutes of the court martial were read over, and the 
 Judge Advocate, after a moment's pause, brought out, ee fully 
 acquitted" a slight glow flushed his cheek ; those two words 
 restored him to freedom, and to good name. He has since 
 been restored to his former rank in the service, and highly 
 respected in his station. 
 
 About the middle of July, our relief hove in sight, and the 
 same day took in the moorings. 18th, slipped the moorings 
 ourselves, and at 4, P.M., left Cape Sambro behind us, 
 homeward bound. The weather was rough, the wind fair, and 
 
335 
 
 after a wonderful run of thirteen days and seven hours, on 
 the 2nd August, we let go the anchor close to the Royal 
 George buoy. Again I was blessed with a sight of my family, 
 and in that one moment, cares, troubles and sorrows, all 
 vanished. August th 31st, the ship was paid, and recom- 
 missioned for another flag on the 1st of September. Although 
 the ship was paid off, I was not clear of the service, having 
 
 only been lent to her from the E ; myself, and nine more 
 
 petty officers and seamen remained on her books. At the 
 latter end of November we were all sent to the E. to renew 
 our studies in gunnery, and that circumstance, light as it 
 may seem, paved the way to my better fortune. By par- 
 ticular favor I was permitted to leave the M , and return 
 
 to my former ship. To say that I disliked the M , would 
 
 be wrong, for I had (and so might any man who chose to 
 do his duty) been extremely comfortable, and even at the 
 commencement of the second station, all bid fair for going 
 on well ; but the moment a prospect of my return to my 
 former ship burst on my sight, it filled me with pleasure. 
 
 Captain D also, from whom I had experienced the 
 
 kindest treatment, strengthened his recommendation with a 
 certificate of good conduct, such as is seldom met with. 
 Hopes, long cherished, of obtaining promotion in the service 
 revived, and my prospects brightened. Time passed on in 
 pleasing anticipation of future comfort, until the 6th March, 
 when in the morning, as the ship's company were at divisional 
 muster, I was ordered to stand out, and the Captain in a 
 manner most kind, presented me with my promotion. I at- 
 tempted to return thanks, but for worlds I could not have 
 spoken ; the promotion itself was beyond measure valuable, 
 because it placed me above want, and in a way of bringing 
 up my family in respectability and comfort; but it was 
 doubly so by being appointed to the very ship, which of all 
 others I should have chosen. Sometime after I saw the Captain 
 and wished to thank him, but even then it was beyond the 
 
336 
 
 power of words to tell the debt I owed, and the gratitude I 
 felt; and surely if there is on this earth one pleasure more 
 sweet than another, it must be when a person confers a benefit 
 on a whole family at once. Since that day, ever memorable 
 to me, time passes beyond description ofrmfortably ; and in the 
 enjoyment of my little cabin, I look back on the days that 
 are past, and scenes gone by, and in all plainly seethe hand 
 of an over ruling providence. 
 
 I have now brought these pages to a close, and many of my 
 readers may perhaps question the propriety of the remarks \ 
 have presumed to make on the conduct of my superiors, as 
 well as the expediency of exhibiting to the world, the thoughts 
 and feelings of such, an humble individual as myself. To such 
 I would say, that I have had a two-fold purpose in view. My 
 first and main object has been to prove to my brother seamen, 
 that much, nay every thing, depends on their own good con- 
 duct, sobriety, and attention to orders : and that every man 
 may, if he conduct himself properly, confidently look forward 
 to something better than mere pauper's allowance when sick- 
 ness and old age shall have made him unfit for active exertion. 
 My second object has been to exhibit the character of the 
 British Sailor, in a favorable light, to those whom his Sovereign 
 has placed in authority over him, and invested with a more 
 than kingly power; to assure them, that the plain blue jacket 
 of the seaman often covers a heart, largely endowed with the 
 best and warmest affections of our nature, and one that 
 readily and gratefully responds to kindness and good treatment. 
 Well assured, that when these two points are allowed and 
 acted on, the naval service of our country will be carried on 
 in all its details, more effectively for the general good, and for 
 the comfort and happiness of those who are engaged in it. 
 
 ' 
 
 W. Woodward, Printer. 
 
V737