University of California Berkeley
THE PETER AND ROSELL HARVEY
MEMORIAL FUND
THIRTY-SIX YEARS
A SEAFARING LIFE
OLD QUARTER MASTER,
THE SIMPLE TRUTH.'
PORTSEA:
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY W. WOODWARD ; AND
SOLD BY LONGMAN & CO. LONDON.
MDCCCXXXIX.
TO
SIR PHILIP CHARLES HENDERSON DURHAM,
K. G C. of the Bath, K. C. of the Military Order of Merit
of France, fyc.
ADMIRAL OF THE WHITE, AND LATE COMMANDER-
IN-CHIEF AT PORTSMOUTH.
HONORED SIR,
Without pretension to any thing more than a strict
adherence to truth, through your condescending permission,
I dedicate to you the Narrative of my chequered Life ; which
I publish, not without a hope that a Seaman's Story may prove
that, in that class of men, there are some who love and feel like
others ; that they have hearts which respect, and that they
can be grateful for the kindness and consideration of their
superiors.
That an Officer so distinguished in the annals of our
country by a splendid career of service, by a life devoted to
her well being and interest, and by a kind feeling to the
British Tar, should permit me to dedicate this little volume
to him, is highly flattering to me : it will ever be considered
by me as a proud event in my life ; and with the deepest
sense of gratitude,
I remain,
Honored Sir,
Your faithful humble Servant,
THE OLD QUARTER MASTER.
CHAPTER I.
MY EARLY DAYS.
" Sweet Aubin, loveliest village of the plain,
" Where health and plenty blest the frugal swain."
GOLDSMITH.
THE small village of St. Aubin was the place of my birth;
situated at the bottom of an open sandy bay, its beautiful
prospects and delightful scenery can never be forgotten by
those who have ever had the pleasure of seeing it.
My father, a highly respectable master mariner, at the time
of his union with my mother commanded one of the largest
ships belonging to the Island ; he had been a widower, and
at her death his first wife left him a lovely boy, who, after him-
self was named Philip ; this child shortly after the death of
his mother was sent into the country to a brother of his
mother, and seldom or ever visited us, so that at the age of
four years, I was led to suppose myself an only child, and
taught to look upon children of equal, if not superior rank as
beneath me I was not even allowed to play with them. No
care or attention was spared to adorn my person or improve
my mind; and by too great an indulgence from the very
best of parents, who granted my every wish, my temper was
ruined ; and to a mistaken notion of affection, I may attribute
many of those evils which have caused the misfortunes of my
after years.
I cannot proceed without laying the contrast before the
reader. My step-brother, brought up at a small school in
the country where barely reading, writing, and the first rules
of. arithmetic were taught, at a very early age taken to sea,
10
apprenticed to a ship builder in Newfoundland, served his
apprenticeship with credit, and when that was ended remained
in the same employ ; a few years after became foreman, and
when age and infirmity obliged his employer to give up
business, he succeeded him; and in 1827, he married a
Canadian woman possessed of good property in Bay des
Chaleurs, and as he tells me in his last letter, carries on his
business and cultivates his acres in peaceful retirement. While
I, the pampered, spoiled boy, whose education, trifling as it is
has been, cost a great sum, am dragging on life within the
wooden walls of a ship of war. How frequently in our
way through life may we observe in families, that that child
which is brought up with the greatest care suffers most, while
he who in his childhood meets with the least attention goes
on smoothly, passes over the rough path of life without one
tumble, frequently accumulates a fortune while the other is
only fit to spend one, and leads a life of poverty and grief; such
I sincerely regret has been the case with me ; hut if we, for
one moment pause and consider, the ruling of providence is
so easily traced in all our concerns, that it becomes a duty
however painful, to bow with resignation to our lot.
Of the first year of my life I have but a confused idea, until
when a mere child I was sent to a boarding school, situated
about the centre of the Island, where I was instructed in the
French tongue the Island French being only a Patois, and
being some distance from home and only allowed to go there
once a fortnight I was less indulged. I felt the confinement
painful at first, but conquered it at last, and in a short time
got quite reconciled.
Of all the inhabitants of our little Island, very few then
spoke English, and any youth who was happy enough to get
any thing like an English education was considered as some-
thing superior to the rest of the Islanders. It is not therefore
to be wondered at that my father had no peace until his con-
sent was obtained that I should go, if only for a year or two, to
11
a school in England ; a lady with whom my mother had been
acquainted in the Isle of Wight, was written to, a school was
soon found in Newport, and my mother herself took me across
first to Southampton, thence to Cowes, when after a great
struggle she left me to the care of a Rev. G. A d, whose
school consisted of only six boarders and twenty day scholars.
The only property which my father was possessed of was fifty-
two pounds a year in the Bank of England, a small house,
and twenty-six acres of land, besides his pay as a master of
the ship ; take all together the income was genteel and
competent ; but my board and education (thirty-two pounds
per annum, besides books, clothing, &c.) was a terrible draw-
back on it. Injustice to my dear departed parents, I must
say they would have thought no privation too great to con-
tribute to my education and comfort. I was delighted with
the idea of an English school, little considering the new scene
of life I had to commence; I well recollect that before leaving me,
my poor mother, calling the maid aside, gave her a one pound
note, bidding her to be kind to her poor boy, and the girl
promised, and faithfully kept that promise, and stood my friend
through the whole time of my residence in the school. Of all
the scholars, not one spoke a word of French ; the little
English I had learnt in Jersey having only been picked here
and there, I seldom used, and whenever I spoke it only raised
a laugh at my expence, and for some weeks I was really
miserable ; the boys too, bent on mischief, if they knew the
master out of the way would plague and vex me in order to
make me speak English, and then laugh at my foreign accent.
That, like most other cares of youth, time overcame, and at the
end- of two years, when the order arrived for me to be removed
to Southampton, I heard of it with regret.
At Mr. 's, my situation was very different, and for a
time far less comfortable than it had been at Newport ; Mr.
W 's was a very large school, nearly one hundred boarders
and above eighty day scholars ; most of them were older than
B 2
12
myself and many of a superior rank, who from being parlour
boarders (one of the greatest errors of boarding schools), took
no notice of me, or if ever they did only laughed at my foreign
accent one, only one treated me with kindness and to him
I am indebted for many, many acts of friendship. I at last
got reconciled to this place, also soon improved with my
English, and in December, 1801, when the time appointed for
my leaving school arrived, Mr. W , told me I had improved
far beyond his expectation ; Indeed the care and attention
bestowed by Mr. and Mrs. W , on the comforts and
education of the scholars reflects the highest credit on the
school, (academy was then a name seldom used), the march
of intellect had not reached so far as it has of late years.
Free from the rigid confinement of a school, it was some-
time before I could fix my inclination upon any thing for my
future life, particularly as my dear mother's hopes ran high.
It was her wish that I should go into a counting house, and
as a preparation for it, I was placed in the shop of an old aunt
of mine who dealt in the general line in a wholesale way ; here
I should perhaps have passed my time agreeably enough, but
that this aunt had an only daughter, about my own age, who
like me was a spoiled child ; there was no peace between us,
ever at war, which could seldom be settled without great
trouble to both our parents, and only ended to recommence
the first favourable opportunity ; in a few months I returned
home tired of shop and shop book.
About this time my father having left his employers, went
to America where he purchased part of a vessel in which he
traded to the West India Islands; with very little con-
sideration, I made up my mind to go out to him ; all my
friends seemed to approve of my going, saying that America
\vas a fine field for a youth with abilities to make his w r ay
through. There was then laying at East Cowes, a brig bound
to Boston, a passage was soon agreed for, my mother paid
fifteen pounds sterling to have me taken across the Atlantic,
13
provided me with every thing I could possibly want, and
fearing I might be captured by an enemy, sewed nine guineas
in a ribbon to stow away in safety.
Never, oh never can I forget the moment of parting, it
was early in January, 1803, I was to join the packet at a
neighbouring town ; the sun rose bright, but our hearts were
heavy and full of grief; after an evidently sleepless night we
sat down to breakfast, very little was eaten, and not one word
spoken on either side. The time appointed arrived, my poor
mother endeavoured to give me some parting advice, but her
voice became choked, her heart was too full, and lifting up
her hands and eyes to heaven, while her bosom hove with bitter
grief, she said, my son may the God of Jacob go with you ;
methinks I see her at this very moment ; I could hear no
more, with an agony of grief not to be described, I left home,
peaceful, happy home, and before I completely recovered the
faculty of thinking, I found myself on board the Hero on my
way to England ; none but those who like me have known the
luxuries of a home, can feel as I did at my first leaving it, and
although years have passed unheeded by, and many a heart
that then was gay now soundly sleeps in the grave, still I can
never forget the comforts of early days.
14
CHAPTER II.
A WINTER AMONG THE INDIANS AT THE BACK OF
NEWFOUNDLAND, IN THE BAYE DU DE&ESPOIR.
EARLY in May, 1803,, I landed on Long wharf Boston, North
America, and very soon found my way to the house of the
person who was- part owner of the vessel in which my father
was then sailing, and to whom I had letters of introduction
and recommendation; I found the gentleman, a venerable
looking old man, engaged in the hardware business, who
received me with great kindness, informed me that my father
was gone to Martinique and was not expected home till
August 5 but, continued Mr. B, your father and myself are
partners and friends, you must remain with me till his return,
when you can both make up your minds as to your future
prospects. With this highly respectable family I soon became
at home, and was treated as if I had been one of them. I regret
to say that I did not look forward to the return of my father
with that pleasure which might be supposed, for I knew his
arrival must remove me from the pleasing family circle in which
I was then placed ; I was at that time an entire stranger to
my father, not having seen him since I was four years of age.
In August, the shipping list gave notice that the L was
arrived at Rodney Island, and was to ride quarantine ; Mr. B.
endeavoured to convey to my father the pleasing news of the
arrival of his son, took me down with him and I very soon
saw my father, much the man I had formed in my mind's eye.
I was received with the greatest kindness, and a sincere shew
15
of affection, and as my father pressed me to his bosom, I
could see the big drops chace each other down his manly
cheeks ; I spent the whole day with him and on leaving the
Island to return to .town I was loaded with presents ; a few
days put an end to his quarantine, and as soon as leisure per-
mitted he asked me to what profession I felt inclined ; I gave
the preference to a seafaring life. In vain the dangers, the
cares, and the trials, were pointed out to me in darkened
colors, I still adhered to my resolution, and as my father was
about to return heme having met with some heavy losses, he
promised to look out a ship for me.
There was at that time laying alongside the wharf a Brig
belonging to Newfoundland, the master of which had served
his apprenticeship to my father, and was also a distant relative.
To this man I was apprenticed for three years, to learn the
art, trade, and mystery df a seaman ; it was also agreed that
during the winter months, while the brig was gone to market
with her second cargo of fish, I should remain in Newfound-
land, and keep the books .and attend the stores, but by no
means to have anything to dp with the%shing, and to be
supplied with gooH clothing, boots, &c. ; and what I now
deem a most improper indulgence was given me, that of having
my meals with the master of the vessel in summer, and at the
agent's table in the winter.
On the 8th September, 1803, I joined the brig and parted
with my father, who during our short acquaintance had by his
kind and truly affectionate care rendered himself very dear to
me ; I was liberally supplied with every thing needful in the
cold climate I was about to face, and at bidding him farewell
while the tears were almost streaming from my eyes, he slipped
two doubloons into my hand, and with a convulsive grasp
departed. I saw him then for the second and last time in my
life ; seven years afterwards he died at Messina while master of
a vessel, of which he owned a part, a victim to that horrid
disorder so prevalent in those ill fated countries (the fever) a
16
tender husband and an affectionate parent. He by care,, at-
tention and sobriety accumulated money ; of which to say no
worse I should have taken better care, improved instead of
wasting ; he is no more, but his memory still lives in the hearts
of his surviving friends.
Light lie the ashes of the dead,
And hallowed be the turf that pillows the head of a seaman.
September 21st, the brig left Boston for Newfoundland, and
thus reader commences my seafaring career. My being allowed
to sit at the same table with the master, and the many indul-
gences he gave me, while it prevented me from feeling so
awkward as I should have done had I been placed with the
crew, still it in no wise tended to my comfort ; for the other
lads jealous of the preference shewn me, exerted all their little
powers to make me uncomfortable ; besides the very great
injury it did me in after years, for never having been a regular
apprentice, and having neglected to obtain that practical expe-
rience necessary, I was unfit to take command of a vessel when
placed in charge of one.
A passage of ten days brought us to Jersey Harbour, where
as winter was fast approaching and articles specified, I went
on shore to commence that new routine of duty I had agreed
to undertake; the agent, a most amiable man of retired
and serious habits, placed great confidence in me, and treated
me with the kindness of a father. The winter in Newfound-
land is excessively severe ; during several months the thermo-
meter remains almost stationary at 15 below zero; but as
I had been there during its gradual approach to that low
temperature, I felt it less than I expected.
The settlement on which I was placed (and which at all
parts of the island is called a room) was then one of the first
in point of commerce except St. John's ; it consisted of the
agenfs house, men's dwelling house and cookroom, stores for
fish, provisions, salt, &c., and was situated at the very bottom
17
of Fortune Bay ; three miles on each side of our room were
those of Dartmouth and Pool, the agents of which sometimes
visited us ; but even with this accession of company our society
was very limited ; our amusements must be mostly with our-
selves. Spare hours during the short days of a Newfoundland
winter, I dedicated mostly to shooting partridges, hares, and a
species of blackbird,, common,, but seldom disturbed, as firing
at it is deemed a waste of powder. The long evenings, to any
other but me, would have afforded ample opportunity for im-
proving the mind, but I was so satisfied with my abilities,
that I considered any further progress needless. The first
winter passed away almost unperceived, May soon came, and
the arrival of the brig gave me the most sincere pleasure, as
I not only received letters from my family, but a handsome
present of fruit from my master. I expected to have gone
on board and for the summer become a seaman, but during
the winter months I had made myself so useful to the agent,
that he refused to let me go ; but in order to make the refusal
sit easy, he promised to give me charge of a shallop just off
the stocks called the Nancy, to go from harbour to harbour,
collecting dry fish to load the vessels for market ; thus I became
satisfied to remain on shore. Towards the end of each year
the Chief and about twenty of a tribe of Indians used to visit
me, some for the purpose of trading and supplying themselves
with articles necessary for winter, the rest of the trib'e, which
in all was supposed to consist of about three hundred men,
women, and children, remained about twenty-five leagues from
us in a deep bay called La baye du desespoir. A small
Schooner of forty tons was sent every fall up this bay, to trade
with and remain there the whole winter, and in spring bring
out the produce of the winter's traffic, as well as a cargo of
staves, plank, timbers, &c. for another vessel; an old and
faithful servant who could understand the Indians, was always
placed at the head of the expedition ; his wages were high and
privileges great. During the visits of the Indians to our room
18
(for what purpose I knew not) I had cultivated the acquain-
tance of their Chief, and from him picked up sufficient of their
tongue to make myself well understood and to converse pretty
well. In the summer of 1806, the old man who had before
gone among the Indians, departed this life universally regretted.
As winter was at hand, the trade lucrative, it became needfull
to replace him, but a great difficulty presented itself in finding
a man able to keep accounts, and above all to understand the
Indians ; for although some few of them spoke French from
having been to Canada, still these were but few, and dangerous
to be trusted as interpreters. The agent knew that in both
tongues I could do, but justly considered a mere lad too young
to be entrusted with a charge so very arduous, particularly as
I was wild and very haughty, and my temper far from conci-
liating. He therefore used all his means to procure a man fitted
to his purpose but without success ; and it was not until he
saw the trade he had so long profitably carried on likely to die
away, or drop into other hands, that he made me the offer to
go ; sulky, because I thought I ought to have been offered it
first, I refused, and at last only consented on condition that
the wages allowed me during my apprenticeship should be
doubled ; the agent situated as he was, could not refuse.
The Kite, a schooner of 42 tons was immediately loaded with
articles of traffic, such as blankets, rum, bread, flour, powder,
a few fowling pieces, &c. ; a sufficient stock of provisions was
also put on board for myself, two carpenters, one cooper,
two sawyers and a lad, in all seven. I was far too young to
be trusted, a mere lad of seventeen ; I felt pride and pleasure
at seeing myself at the head of affairs, and upon the whole,
acquitted myself far better than even my best friends expected.
Indeed during the whole course of my life I observed that
the more responsibility is placed on any man, whether old or
young, the less likely he is to break it, and the more powerful
the inducement to fulfil his duty.
Such was the case with me, as I looked round me and felt
19
the confidence reposed in me ; a glow of pleasure, a sensation
not to be described filled my bosom, and strengthened my
desire to do all for the good of my employers. Early in
October, 1806, I left Jersey harbour, and four days after
dropped anchor at the very bottom of the bay, abreast a large
grove of birch, spruce, and fir, almost in the middle of which,
in a semicircle, were placed the numerous wigwams or huts
of the Indians.
20
CHAPTER III.
INDIAN VILLAGES,, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS.
THE vessel had only been anchored a iew minutes when the
Chief, his wife, and two other persons came alongside. Sensi-
ble that I had at least eight months to remain with these
people, I considered it an imperious duty to treat them well,
and by all just means to gain their friendship ; I therefore
asked them to come on board. At first they seemed surprised
at the appearance of a stranger, and seemed as if they expected
to see some one else : but after a short time in which I gave
the Chief a knife ; his wife, a blanket ; and a young girl, his
daughter, some ribbon, we became friends, and as I knew
that these Chiefs exercise over their tribes the most unbounded
authority, I considered I had nothing to fear from their
treachery. But in order to cement the friendship so strongly
that it could not be broken, I determined as soon as possible
to smoke the calumet or pipe of peace with them, and eat
under the roof of their huts ; for as the Arabs of the desert
consider a man who has once eaten of their salt as under their
immediate protection so it was then with these Indians, a
man who had once eaten and smoked with them, was as safe as
if he were in the Bank of England.
In the evening when I went on shore to the wigwams of
the Chief, I told him that I was hungry and desirous of smoking
with him ; my desires were soon gratified, all who were in
21
the hut were seated on the ground; an immense pipe was
brought out and filled by the Chief, who was seated near me ;
with great gravity he took a long whiff, allowing the smoke to
issue from his nostrils, and then passed it to me ; though I de-
tested smoking then, as I do now, I took the whiff which I felt
convinced would insure my safety, and passed the pipe round.
This part of the business over, some deer's flesh and cakes made
by the Squaws (not perhaps in the cleanest way, and baked
in an iron pot), were brought round, all ate and all were
friendly ; and during the whole of my stay they endeavoured
to make me as comfortable as possible.
Near the centre of the village, if I may so call it, a space
was cleared of trees and our house, which consisted of boards
brought with us, was soon built. It was large, and like all the
houses of the outports of the Island, it had bed cabins round
the sides, except in one corner which was made into a little
room for me to sleep in : at the back, and communicating by
a door from my room, was a store in which the most valuable
part of the Kite's cargo had been deposited, particularly the
rum. Before the end of October the schooner was hauled
close in shore, secured to two trees; the men commenced their
labours, and as the Indians killed any animal they brought
the skin and exchanged it for some of my commodities ; there
was to all a stated price, for a silver hair fox I gave
42s. a fitch fox 15s., a yellow fox 12s., a beaver, or otter
10s., a bear's skin 31s.., for all which they got in exchange
bread, flour, blankets, and as no bargain could possibly be
concluded without it, a very little rum. Deer were abundant,
so much so, that for a four pound piece of salt pork I could
most times get a quarter of venison, hares and partridges ; we
could shoot almost at our door, so that our living was excellent,
our profits great. The Indians were friendly and attentive,
indeed at times rather too much so, for it was not at all un-
common for us to go to bed leaving several of them round our
fire, some sleeping, some talking ; the only door that was
22
locked was the store, and that merely on account of the rum.
The Chief was a frequent inmate of our house, and either at
one or the other house we were together nearly every day, and
as a small bottle of rum was usually in my pocket I was
ever welcome. I cannot say that he had half the greedy
appetite for spirits that his people had, on the contrary, I
have heard him often express a sincere regret at the many rash
acts committed by his men when in a state of intoxication, and
although his power was almost unbounded, still this was an
exception. Sensible of the troubles attendant upon the im-
moderate use of ardent spirits, he was the only Indian I ever
knew who could resist the temptation to drink, and knew
when he had enough. His brother, a sort of second Chief,
would drink until deprived of sense and driven to madness. If
once offended it is never forgiven or forgotten ; past injuries,
however old, descend from father to son, as property does in other
countries. An instance of this occurred while I was at Jersey
harbour : a man named Bryan, who at the time I speak of was
very old, had many years before been trading with them at
some other part of the Island, and during his stay had seduced
one of their daughters, it was supposed the sister of the man
who was now the Chief; before it was found out Bryan
absconded, leaving his unfortunate victim to bear their rage ;
what became of her no one ever knew. Years rolled on, Bryan
was supposed to have been entirely forgotten, but on the last
visit of the Chief to Jersey harbour, he saw Bryan mending
some nets ; he recognized his features instantly, and levelled his
rifle at him ; one of our men near, touched his arm, altered the
direction of the piece, which went off, but missed its object ;
in all human probability he saved the life of the man, who went
to England to avoid any future consequences. The winter was
very severe, the thermometer fell to 11 below zero, but as our
house was situate in the midst of lofty trees we felt little of it,
with a fine fire of birch constantly blazing on our hearth.
The Indians were very fortunate in their hunting expeditions,
23
and before the winter was over I had well made up to the
owners for my double wages. In April, 1807, the thaw began,,
the Indians prepared to leave for some other parts, and we
commenced loading the schooner with wood, and the produce
of our winter's trade. May 8th, the ice broke up and floated
down towards the mouth of the bay; on the 13th, I bade
farewell to the friendly tribe, and left them with a firm promise
of again visiting them next winter. The Chief, at parting, gave
me a large bear's skin, and his daughter, a lovely Indian girl
of eighteen, gave me two silver hair fox skins. Favoured with
a fresh breeze on the 16th, I again anchored in Jersey harbour,
saw the agent, who not having heard a word of our proceedings
during the winter was highly pleased at my account, promised
me a handsome present as soon as the vessel was discharged,
if my furs turned out as good as I had represented them : skins
examined and aired, I got the promised present, which was a
very genteel suit of clothes and twenty-four dollars, being as
I was told a reward for my care and attention.
How often, looking back on those days, have I thought what
a beautiful opening it was for ayouth,amere lad; confidence, the
most unbounded was reposed in me, and with little care and
attention I might have risen in the world to comfort and
affluence ; but I know not how it is, there certainly is <f a tide in
the affairs of men/ 5 for which ever way I steered, some cur-
rent's thwarting force seemed to set against me.
Summer, ever short in Newfoundland soon passed away,
and I felt no sorrow when the time arrived for me to prepare
for winter quarters among the Indians ; so easily is the mind
of man adapted to particular circumstances, that I anticipated
great pleasure from seing old faces again, which a year or two
before I should have seen with fear if not disgust.
A new Schooner of 40 tons, called the Woodman, had been
launched during the summer, I was desired to join her, and
on the 7th October, 1807, I again arrived at the old spot of
commerce, and found things much as I had left them ; the
24
reception I met with was pleasing,, more particularly from the
Chief, who taking my hand shook it heartily,, saying in French
which he spoke well, " thou art come,, thou art come,, and I
rejoice to see thee." His dress was much improved since last
year ; indeed commerce with us seemed to have been attended
with good on both sides. All remained very comfortable till
March, when animals becoming scarce, the Chief and a party of
his best men, leaving his brother in charge, went on a hunting-
excursion across the island, but previous to leaving, the Chief
aware of his brother's fondness for ardent spirits, had cautioned
me against letting him have any.
The hunters had been gone only a few hours, when the
brother came to me with abear's skin to get rum ; I toldhim that
I had promised his brother that I would not sell a drop during
his absence ; and in order to make the refusal sit easier, I
gave him a small quantity to drink ; he left me apparently
satisfied, but in about half an hour I felt convinced that some-
thing was amiss, for I observed the women at the wigwam of
the Chief's brother, carrying away the rifles and axes; a certain
proof that some dire event was in contemplation. Aware of
the danger of irritating a half drunken Indian, I was at a loss
how to act, and for one moment felt my charge too heavy ; a
little thought however and my determination was formed ; I
sent the boy who acted as our cook, servant, &c., to tell the
Chiefs brother I wished him to come and drink rum with me;
I had my doubts as to how my message might be received,
and almost feared for the messenger ; as it pleased God it was
given and received in a favourable moment, for in about ten
minutes I saw the old man coming with hasty strides towards
me ; I presented my hand which was to all appearance cordi-
ally taken ; I then told him that I had promised his brother
that I would not sell one drop of rum during his absence, and
he knew my word was inviolable ; but that as giving was not
included in the promise, I would give him as much as he him-
self chose to drink ; he was satisfied and very soon availed
25
himself of the permission by making himself what Jack calls
gloriously drunk, and in that state I considered him safest ;
thus ended an affair which if not taken in time, might have
ended fatally to some of us, possibly to all. On the fifth day
the Chief and hunters returned, having been very successful,
and every thing resumed its usual course. During both winters
of my residence among them I never saw the Chief intoxicated
but twice ; a moderate and self command, seldom found
among Indians, particularly when spirits (as was the case) are
at command and even during those two drunken bouts,
although his features and almost his very nature seemed
changed, and his wife was afraid to go near him, still his daugh-
ter could command and he would immediately obey. So power-
ful even among these people is their affection for their children.
In order to maintain the ascendancy I possessed over the father,
I had always cultivated the friendship of the daughter. Her
features, more European than any of the others of the tribe ;
her manners in some measure improved from her frequent
residences in Canada ; and her appearance superior to all the
rest, from the many presents of dress made to her by myself
and her father, rendered her an object, where no white females
were to be seen, at once pleasing and interesting.
Early in May, 1808, I told her that I was about to leave
her, and most probably never see her again, as I was going
home a very great distance ; she burst into tears, and it was
with great difficulty I could compose her. During the daily,
I may almost say hourly meetings which had taken place, she
had never dreamt but our wintry visits were to continue, and on
that account looked to spring without fear, because she could
anticipate the pleasure of meeting again in the fall. It was
not love love could not exist between two beings so differ-
ently circumstanced, and whose paths lay so widely apart ;
it was esteem arising from many acts of kindness on both sides.
But now that the truth seemed to flash across her mind it opera-
ted with double force ; I knew that her father had always har-
26
boured a wish that she should have a white man for her hus-
band, but had not the slightest idea till the moment of parting;
that his hopes were fixed on me ; if I had; my conduct, though
perfectly harmless, would have been different. At parting,
as the old man held my hand firmly grasped in his, he said,
" why wilt thou go, stay with me, I will protect and feed
thee, and thou shalt be my son ?" of course persuasion was
unavailing. I had several valuable presents made me, and
left them on the llth, and reached home on the 14th May,
1808. My traffic had been successful, and my reception
was equally kind; indeed the agent had a double reason
for being kind to me, the time of my apprenticeship was
about to expire, and he wished me to continue in the em-
ploy, but his wishes were not realized, for having a good
sum of money to take, I was desirous of returning to my
family, and requested a passage to England. It was with great
difficulty I got the promise, but as I had served my allotted
time, it could not be withheld ; a brig, called the Trust, coming
for a cargo of oil and salmon, the furs I had collected the winter
before, and myself, were shipped in her.
As it was likely that during the passage, we should come
across some ships of war, and I might be impressed ; the ma-
nifest and bills of lading were made out in my name, thus
insuring my perfect security. Besides eleven on the articles
(myself included), we had about ten fishermen, who having only
engaged for the season, were returning home as passengers
with the earnings of the summer's fishery.
27
CHAPTER IV.
CAPTURED BY A FRENCH PRIVATEER.
Never despair. That which seems a terrible curse may be a blessing in dis-
guise, and ever recollect that that Supreme Beneficence who brought light
out of darkness, can at all times render a temporary evil, a lasting good. There
is but one region in which man may despair, it is that of which the Poet says
" Wherein, who enter, leave all hope behind."
OLD QUARTER MASTER.
October 4th, 1803, the Trust sailed from Jersey harbour ;
she was very deeply laden, indeed by many considered un-
reasonably so at this dangerous season of the year, when gales
of wind are so common on the banks of Newfoundland.
October 23rd, the vessel was lying to about 10 leagues E. of
the banks, when a heavy sea struck her on the starboard beam
and completely cleared the decks ; cabouse, boats, bulwarks,
binnacle, all went, and worse than all the two men who were
at the pump went also ; one of them however got entangled
in some ropes and held on alongside till he was dragged in
again ; the other poor youth sunk to rise no more, without our
being capable of making one effort to save him, for the quantity
of water that had gone- below had almost water-logged the
vessel ; out of our bread all was damaged, except three bar-
rels. Our situation was at this moment extremely critical, but the
buoyancy of the cargo in a great measure, under Providence,
tended to her safety. Our first care was to ware round, and
bring the strongest side to the sea, and if possible bring her
upright again, for many of the upper tiers of oil casks had
shifted and rolled to leeward ; every hand was exerted to pump
c 2
28
her out, and as she made but little water we soon got her free
again. Our quantity of bread was so scanty that it became need-
ful to come to a very short allowance ; one biscuit per day was all
that could be given to each man, and even then it was thought
that unless some ship who could assist us appeared, it would be
found needful to curtail. Four casks of water had been washed
off deck, only three hogsheads remained below, so that of
necessity we were obliged to haul short on that also. Now
let those who at home are revelling in plenty, and living on
all the luxuries of life, for one moment pause and re-peruse the
last page. Still amid hunger and thirst I heard no murmur,
all were resigned and thankful to that merciful providence who
had saved us in the hour of peril.
November 8th, during the whole of the night it had been
blowing heavy ; about 6 A. M. it cleared up and moderated, a
stout vessel was also lying too about two miles in the wind's
eye of us. I had the morning watch, having kept the master's
watch during the whole passage ; on looking at the vessel I
made her out a large schooner, and immediately went down to
the master and told him there was a man of war schooner to
windward. The master jumped up without dressing, took the
glass out of the companion, and having eyed her for a moment,
dropped the glass and looking at me fixedly, uttered the words
a d d privateer John ; the words chilled my very heart. So
long absent from my home, and dear family, and to be taken only
at so short a distance ; the idea was distracting. Had we
been even inclined to doubt, our suspense would soon have
been at an end, for the schooner bore up and running under
our lee quarter, hailed "brig ahoy " "What brig is that ?" on
being answered he again hailed "what is your cargo," and being
satisfied in this also, he said again, "haul down your colours Pm
a French Privateer;" oh! what a shock. While the Privateer
was manning the boat, the master called me to him and addres-
sing me said, John if you have sufficient courage you may with
ease recapture the vessel, keep your liberty, and save my
29
clothes and my private venture ; for my part continued the
master, I shall be the first man sent out of her, but you can
stow away in the hold between the casks and the beams as
many of the fishermen as choose to stop, and at night when
the Privateer is far away, you may easily regain possession of
your vessel. Time was short, but I soon stated the case to
the fishermen who seemed willingly to enter into my plan, and
seven of them volunteered to stow themselves below, fearing
death almost as little as a life of misery in a French depot ;
when all was settledandthe privateer's boat came alongside there
remained fourteen people on deck, so no suspicion was created.
The officer who boarded was quite a young man, of a very
genteel, and indeed prepossessing appearance ; his first order
was to make haste into the boat as there was a large vessel to
leeward which they wished to overhaul ; I was among the
number of those ordered into the boat, but on my addressing
and begging to remain in the brig, he said tu parle francais,
reste id ; an old man and a lad of seventeen were also left, the
boat shoved off, taking eleven away, and leaving ten men ;
three of us remained on deck, which with seven below, left our
numbers equal; the only arms they had brought with them, or
at least left, was one cutlass. Before we were boarded, I had
taken care to stow away the cook's axe, snug under the windlass;
the old man who had remained with me went down into the
forecastle for water, and as he was sliding down into the
hold, amid the noise of the vessel he could communicate
unnoticed with the men there, make them acquainted with the
state of things, and that they were to come up the moment
they heard three heavy raps, just abaft the windlass. Pro-
vidence, as in many other cases favoured our enterprise ; a
fresh breeze from N. W. drove us fast towards the coast of
France, and sensible of the awkward situation of those below,
I determined to make the attempt as early as possible ; the
most critical moment was that of coming up, for only one
could ascend at a time; consultation was impossible, one look,
30
one word might have betrayed us ; and the Frenchmen to
insure their own safety must have sent us to a watery grave.
Night, long wished for, came at last, at 3 p. M. the watch was
set, five sent down into the cabin, the other five remained on deck,
and were disposed of as follows ; one at the helm, one on the
foreyard to look out, the other two talking the deck, the prize
master, Mons. Venion, walked the weather side of the quarter
deck. I politely told him that if he felt sleepy I would keep
the first watch for him, but this he as politely refused, ob-
serving it would be too painful for me to direct my own vessel
into an enemy's port, but if I would walk the deck with him he
would deem it a favour. I had my doubts as to the pleasure
I might in the end give him, but said nothing, and continued
walking the deck until it was past nine by my watch, and
I supposed the watch below sound asleep. I proposed walking
forward, and having taken a few turns on the main deck, when
in the very act of turning from forward to go aft, I gave the
three appointed raps with my feet, saying at the same time, how
very cold my feet are. Before I got aft, several of the men were
on deck ; when turning round to the prize master, I said, Sir,
a few moments since I was your prisoner, you are now mine,
I have ten men armed now on the forecastle, see them. The
youth seemed stupified, and begged earnestly his life might
be spared, of which I assured him there was no danger, if
himself and his men went quietly below. On my going aft, the
man at the helm seemed doubtful how to act, but the cook's
axe civilly suspended over his head directed him, and he walked
below, followgd by two more of his companions ; the man on
the foreyard seeing the vessel's head yawing about, the sails
flapping all round him, thought we had hove his companions
overboard, and as he afterwards told me, had a mind to follow,
without waiting the more tedious process of our throwing him ;
but on being called down, he obeyed and followed the rest
into the cabin. Ten men in so small a space as the little cabin
were dangerous, as they might plot mischief, so that as soon
31
as the sails were trimmed, and the vessePs head E. N. E., we
passed them one by one into the forecastle, the prize master
excepted, who was desired not to leave the cabin ; with the
booby hatch well barred, the men we considered safe. My
small knowledge of Navigation having been obtained at school
was but trifling, for besides want of attention to it, Navigation
was then little understood, but I knew that by keeping the ves-
sePs head E. N. E., I should strike some part of the English
coast, which, it was immaterial to me. The next day a low point
hove in sight, which we soon made out to be the Lizard, and I
then expected to get into Falmouth early next morning, but
about 9, P. M. a large ship appeared about four miles on the
weather beam; she soon came down to us, and our fears of her
being French were soon dispelled, by finding that she was the
one of the old frigate built sloops, then so frequent
about the Channel. On being hailed, I as well as I could, ex-
plained our situation, and was ordered to come on board; a boat
was sent after me, I took the log book and bills of lading, &c.;
the register the master had taken with him. Arrived on the
quarter deck, I stood a moment or two without any notice being
taken of me, but the Captain coming up, I took my hat off which
he desired me to replace, and told me to give him a correct detail
of our capture, recapture, &c., for at first he seemed doubtful
of the fact. I related the circumstances just as they had occurred,
when Capt. said, " why you say, you have ten prisoners, and
only ten of you to guard them, and work the vessel too, that
is scarcely sufficient, shall I ease you of your care, and take
the prisoners ?" Without one moment's consideration, I said,
yes sir, most thankfully. How very careful a* person should
be before he utters his sentiments on any subject of importance ;
it may have been all for the best, doubtless it was, but by that
hasty answer, I lost my part of the salvage, the good will of my
employers, and ultimately my situation. A boat was sent,
and by 1 1 o'clock the prisoners stood on the ship of war's quarter
deck ; I Avas desired to say what usage we had received from
32
them, as, observed the Captain, on the usage you have met with,
depends their own. I could not in justice say that we had
been ill used, and indeed had it been so, considering their now
distressing situation, I could not have said so ; I therefore
assured the officer that the short time we had been in their
charge, our treatment had been very good. I was desired to
walk down into the gun-room, where a comfortable supper was
waiting for me. It was left to my choice whether I would
return to the brig, or remain where I was ; I preferred return-
ing to the brig, the Captain saying, very well, and I will send
an officer, and some men to assist in working her into port.
I thought it very strange, but attributed it all to the kindness
of Capt. -
On the day following we got into Falmouth, and had but
just let go our anchor in Point Maws creek, when the impress
boat came alongside ; the officer of her jumped up the side and
desired me to send all hands aft. I told him I was not the
master, that he was in French prison, and that the vessel had
been captured by the enemy, that there was at this moment a
naval officer in the cabin ; satisfied there were no hopes for
him, the press-master left us.
Two days afterwards a fresh breeze from N. W. springing
up, I went alongside the P. and requested the men and officers
might be taken out, as I wished to sail that evening. It is
impossible to describe my feelings when Capt. told me
that I could not go till security was given for the salvage, and
ended by saying the sooner you write to your owners to that
effect, the sooner you will go home. I told the Capt. that at
the risk of our lives we had recaptured the vessel, and I deemed
it unjust and ungentlemanlike to detain us ; the reply was
that he knew it well, but the prisoners having been given up
to a ship of war, the salvage became his, and added he, while
a haughty smile curled his lip, in love, as in war, stratagems
are fair ; so young man the less you say about it the better.
Thus ended my visit, and with it my hopes of salvage, on which
33
I had been calculating. One of the firm soon came, the sal-
vage was paid, but all were dissatisfied with me for having
giving up the prisoners so easily, and although it was not the
slightest loss to them, as the underwriters paid the expences,
still that, and the circumstance of my having left Newfound-
land contrary to their wishes and interest, operated so strongly
against me, that when the owner met me, he began with the
most abusive language, and told me I had caused a deal of un-
necessary trouble to the firm. I replied, I fear too sharply, that
if in this one instance I had given trouble, I had, I said ful-
filled my every duty, and considered myself ill used. It all
ended with, " your future services will be dispensed with ;"
what a blow to a young man just building castles in the air
upon his future prospects. Had I given it one moment's
serious consideration, and acknowledged an error, I might
have saved myself a deal of care and trouble ; but a temper
that even in after years I have found it difficult to overcome,
ruined me ; or at least I then thought so. I was desired to
call at the office for the balance of my wages, and on going
there a few days after, I received ninety four pounds without
the slightest allusion to the past, Mr. W. just saying the
balance in your favour appears to be 94, is this right ? quite
so sir ; one single word might even then have set all to rights,
but, and now ere I proceed, let me advise that person into
whose hands these lines may fall, never, never give way to
that worst of all tempers, a sulky one; it embitters your
sweetest hours, blasts your happiest enjoyments, and in the
midst of comfort makes man miserable.
34
CHAPTER V.
LOSS OF A SHIP IN THE WESTERN OCEAN.
There is no word or action which may not be taken with two hands, either
with the right hand of good fellowship, and charitable construction, or with the
interpretation f motive or suspicion. All succeeds as it is taken.
OLD QUARTER MASTER.
As no hopes remained of my again returning to my former
employers, I determined to resume my seafaring life, but before
I made up my mind on the subject, I was advised by my friends,
as well as some gentlemen who interested themselves in my
favour, to state to the committee at Lloyds the circumstance
of the capture, and recapture of the Trust. I did so, and got
it attested by all those who were concerned, as well as by some
of the most respectable inhabitants of the Island, and in about
three weeks received an answer, stating that the committee
had most honourably voted eighty guineas to be distributed
among those concerned, and from the terms in which the letter
was couched, little credit was given to the second recaptors.
I remained at home during the winter without seeking or
wishing for any employment : my father had a few months
before my return home, purchased one third of a schooner out
of Guernsey ; I would gladly have sailed with him, but he was
not expected home for above a year; I could not therefore
think of remaining that length of time a burden to my family.
A brig called the E was then fitting out, commanded
by a first cousin of mine; we had been intimate from childhood;
he offered to take me as second mate, not much of an office to
be sure, but such as it was I thankfully accepted it; our cargo was
35
wine for St. John's and 'Quebec, and we sailed from Jersey,
April 1 2, 1 809. At this season of the year, the weather is usually
fine, but the winds prevailing from the West, our progress was
slow, particularly as our vessel in addition to being deeply
laden was a dull sailer. On the 30th April, we had only
reached long. 31 10 west ; a little before noon we observed a
strange sail apparently hove too, head to the eastward ; as
every thing in the shape of a strange sail was made out a
French privateer, it is not to be wondered at that a vessel of
that kind should create alarm ; however upon strictly eying
her through the glass, we found her a ship very high out of the
water, and to look at, any thing but a privateer, and therefore
conjectured her to be a ship in distress. The event justified
our opinions, for a few minutes after noon she bore up and
shewed her ensign union down in the main topmast shrouds,
and on hailing, she proved to be a large barque, belonging to
the North of England ; that while running free, and at a quick
rate the night before, they had struck something which they
supposed to be a mahogany bawk (having seen several the day
before) and started some of her butts, by which she made a
great deal of water. The master of her, begged us to stick
by him, and in the event of her leaks increasing, to take them
out, and leave her to her fate. As nearly one course did for
both vessels, his request was readily agreed to on the part
of our master ; there was no loss of time or any thing else to
be apprehended, but had there been ever so much, I felt
assured the master of the E would not have allowed that
to interfere with saving the lives of his fellow creatures.
It was just about 2 p. M., the barque was about half a mile
in the wind's eye, I was writing the day's log, and the master
taking his grog on the lockers, the chief mate asleep, or at
least catching boobies, when the helmsman sung out down the
companion, " the barque has bore up, and wants to speak to us; 5 '
I had scarce time to close my book, the master to end his grog
and run on deck with the speaking trumpet in his Jiaml, when '
36
the Master of the barque again hailed, saying the leak increased
to an alarming degree, and that he wished us to take him out
with his crew, at the same time begging that our boat might
be sent to assist in saving some provisions from the vessel
before she went down. The master turning to me, asked if I
would go, I consented, and a young man whom I much res-
pected agreed to accompany me ; the jolly boat was lowered
from the stern, and about 3 p. M., I ascended her side, where
a scene of confusion I can scarce describe, presented itself to
me The crew aware that with a total loss, no wages were to
be expected, had not only helped themselves to any thing likely
to pay, but also got at the spirits, and several of them were
wandering about her decks in a state of mad intoxication. The
carpenter particularly was so much so, that when something
required to be done on the foreyard, in spite of all remon-
strances he would go, had just got on the yard, when down he
came on deck, and so much hurt as to be supposed dead ; he
recovered, a wonderful memento of the goodness of Providence.
Those who could were busily employed in filling our boat with
bread, &c., and on the top, the master's cat, trunk, &c. Just
as she was full, and I was about to descend into her, some
half drunken fellow let go the painter, calling out " there you
go my hearty." She got alongside of our vessel, but before she
was half discharged, one of those sudden gales, common at that
season, sprung up, all hands in both vessels had enough to
do to let fly and clue up, and at last furl, so that the poor jolly
boat was seen no more. At 4, 30, p. M., our little brig was hove
too under closed reefed main-topsail, and the barque under
main-trysail, and not the least hope of our getting to her that
night, if ever.
From the account given me by the master of the barque,
of the state the ship was in, I felt very uneasy in my mind,
and had serious apprehensions as to her keeping-above water
all night ; I cannot say that death seemed to alarm me much,
but I felt hurt at the manner in which I had got into my
present situation, and firmly made up my mind that all the
barques in England might go to the bottom, before Fd go on board
of one again ; but upon serious reflection for a moment, I found
that our danger was not so imminent as I had at first supposed
it to be, and almost doubted whether any really did exist :
I was not a thorough bred seaman, but I knew well that a
leaky ship must be pumped out; now in the present case the
pumps were only used one at a time, the water came up clear,
but the pump could lie idle ten minutes at least. About
8 p. M., I was invited into the cabin to supper, where I made
a hearty meal off some corned beef and potatoes, and in the
course of conversation, I hinted to the chief mate my opinion
that the ship might be kept above water with a little extra
labour. I could see that my hint was any thing but agree-
able, for the answer as well as the countenance indicated no
satisfaction. " I do not wish to alarm you, young man said he,
laying particular emphasis on the word young, but if she hangs
together till morning, I shall be thankful." I have no dread of
the event said I, and in the mean time I will take a nap; I laid
down, but did not sleep, strange ideas filled my head; that
something was amiss, I felt assured, but where, was a riddle to
me ; in vain I endeavoured to banish the idea, it returned with
tenfold force. It blew a perfect gale the whole night, there was
on her deck besides her long boat, a fine large skiff which we
had got ready to hoist out, when the gale began, and the tackles
were still on her and just hauled taut. Self preservation is the
first law in nature thought I, I will keep my eye on the skiff
at all events. I sincerely felt for our master, who not knowing
the extent of our danger, would be in misery all night. Morning
came, the pumps had been worked very regularly ; at 7> it
became moderate as suddenly as it had risen, the skiff was
got out, and by 10 A. M. had made several trips to the brig
with bread, pork, rope, sails, &c., water, the veiy thing most
needed was forgotten, and which is of great value at sea.
The master told me he had made up his mind to be the last
38
on board of her, and begged that I would go in that boat the
last but one, and send her back for him with a couple of men ;
he might have gone then had he chosen, however it was not
my business. The barque was still under the trysail when
we left her, and being then light winds the sail had little power
upon a hull of such magnitude; it therefore swung nearly
before the wind, and in order to get to our own vessel we had
to pass close under her stern. We had passed not more I
should say than twenty yards, when I heard a splash in the
water, and on looking round, saw her raft port laying flat upon
the water ; it had evidently been lashed, for the lashing which
had been round the cross piece inside had been cut, and was
seen gaping several inches apart. I was not the first who took
notice of it, it was pointed out to me by the youth who had
accompanied me, who said as he pointed to it, I thought so ;
what did you think said I? oh ee nothing, nothing" was his reply.
We soon got on board, the boat was cleared and sent back, and
the master had been with us about twenty minutes, when the
ill fated ship, the once beautiful fabric, gave one roll, fell on her
broadside, and sunk in the bosom of the mighty deep. Even
when no lives are lost, the impression is awful ; to see a ship
sink fills the mind with painful ideas, image of man's destiny,
a few short years, perhaps months, or even days, we must also
sink into a grave, so many, many of us.
Our march is on the mountain wave,
Our home is in the deep.
Painful, yet true.
Although nothing on her decks remained lashed, for before I
left her I had cut boats' gripes, cabouse gripes, all the spare
spars adrift ; still as she went down every thing was swallowed
up in the vortex of the sinking wreck, leaving a swell that
made our poor Ifttle vessel roll gunwale too ; and although we
cruized about the spot sometime after, nothing came up, not
an oar or a plank appeared above the surface. As we passed and
39
repassed over the place where an hour before the noble ship
swam in all her beauty, the words came to my recollection,
a Here Troy once stood."
During the dinner time as both masters and mates were sit-
ting at the table, myself upon the lockers, not having room at
table, young and inexperienced, without giving it a thought, I
said to the master of the barque, who was expressing his sorrow
at the loss of his ship, then sir, why did you cut the sternport
away, she might have been picked up? the colour which flew to
his face, and the look which our master gave me, convinced me I
had said something very wrong; in the afternoon our master told
me to mind my own business, and not bother my head about the
. I felt the rebuke keenly, but said nought, when our
master seeing how mortified I was, explained to me the danger
in which I might have plunged the master of the barque by my
remarks. Having neglected the very thing we ought to have
thought of first, a supply of water, we were reduced to a very
short allowance; one pint per day for all uses, was the most that
could be allowed to officers and men ; the wind continued light
and westerly, our progress slow. On the 6th day it was thought
proper to make a further reduction of water, and half a pint a
day was allowed; no chance, of a fresh water wash then. One
day while we were sitting at dinner in the cabin, we were all
alarmed with an unusual noise upon deck, a confused succes-
sion of screaming and swearing; being nearest the door I sprung
up the companion, and found that a north country man belong-
ing to the barque, had got one of her boys, a very little fellow,
fast by the middle and towing him overboard. I snatched the
rope out of his hand, hauled the poor little fellow in board, and
endeavoured to ascertain the reason of this cruel usage ; but
of all the tongues and language I had ever heard, this was the
most unintelligible ; the poor boy crying and dripping, and the
sailor swearing, and from his threatening manner I suppose
vowing vengeance against the boy. The master of the barque
came up, and having got the rights of the story, thus interpreted
40
it to us ; that morning, the poor man having got his half pint
of water in a bottle, and wishing to save it for the heat of the
day, had stowed it away snug in the very heart of the cable
tier, and to secure his bottle had wrapped a jacket round it; at
this time all hands were on deck but the said boy, who was
apparently enjoying a nap on a chest hard by; at noon the
poor feUow wishing to indulge in a drop of water to cool his
parched tongue, went down to his store, but alas it was gone,
it had vanished. For some moments he determined to throw the
boy overboard without ever a rope, but the idea of murder on his
conscience induced him to use the rope and thus it was when I
came up ; horrid as the punishment may appear, no one that
has ever been twenty four hours upon half a pint of water, and
on the second or even third day finds that scanty allowance
gone, but will feel for the man. Those who have always lived
within hail of a running stream, are incompetent judges of the
effect of thirst upon the mind; oppressive thirst removes from
the heart of man every thing that is good, and implants in its
stead evil and horror ; half a pint of water was given to the
man, and the affair passed off.
May 12th, 1809, a large ship hove in sight standing to the
eastward under a press of canvass, a signal of distress was
immediately made, She just yawed too under our stern,
enquired into the nature of our distress, and then hailed " I can
give you no assistance." As she passed we saw on her stern
Prince W. H. London ; 14th. another ship hove in sight,
answered our signal, took all those who wished to go to her,
and gave us a supply of water ; and on our offering them a
supply of bread, generously refused to take it ; the owner
who was on board, observing that we had suffered more and
deserved it most. Some days after we fell in with H. M. S.
then cruizing on the banks, who supplied us still
further with water and bread ; and although it was then
blowing almost a gale at S. W. sea mountains high, still she
lowered her boat and sent two bags of bread and two small
41
casks of water on board ; their exertions were really wonderful.
June 8th, anchored in St. John's, and having only 25 pipes of
port to leave,, it was soon done. On the 12th, sailed again for
Quebec,, and there discharged the wine,, took bread, flour, &c.,
for St. John^s, where a cargo of fish was ready for us to take
home. Sept. 27th, a convoy sailed for England, and under
its care we left the harbour, we kept together but a very few
days, as just East of the banks we had very bad weather.
The last time we saw the Commodore, there were only four of us
in his company, and that same night we too lost sight of him,
and saw him no more. The weather was such that no human
power could keep the ships together ; so we had to make the
best of our way home. On the 26th November, we made the
Lizard Lights, and hugged ourselves, with the hope of soon
seeing those we loved ; but alas how vain are the hopes of man.
At dawn of day we were boarded by the privateer, Les deux
Freres de Bourdeaucc, and in a very short time I was going
with a small bag in my hand up the privateer's side; the master,
a venerable old man seeing the tear in my eye, said to me
fi don't grieve my friend, your turn to day, to morrow may be
mine;" his words were prophetic. The Active, a revenue
cruizer soon came up, and the circumstances occurred which
are detailed in the following chapter.
42
CHAPTER VI.
RECAPTURED BY THE ACTIVE REVENUE CRUIZER
IMPRESSED A TERRIBLE FRIGHT.
" I still had hope, for hope will stay
" After the sunset of delight ;
" So like the star that ushers day,
" We scarcely think it heralds night."
BYRON.
THE Active had been anchored in Mount's bay, and during
the night one of her boats being on the Lizard looking out
for smugglers, had given intelligence of a privateer; the
Active immediately slipped her cable and made all sail after
the enemy. For the first three hours the privateer took no
notice of Tier, and supposed that the moment she had cap-
tured the prize she would relinquish the chase, but they were
disappointed, for the Active never hove to, but dropped her
boat and proceeded on her course. They then began to fear
the result of the chase, ordered all the prisoners below, and
as there were many besides ourselves, issued to each of their
men a sort of dagger to carry in their bosom, to use as it
might be required.
About noon it fell a perfect calm, and the cutter, who had
till then gained on the privateer, dropped astern visibly ; he
Frenchman, by working his sweeps had considerable advan-
tage ; I could hear from their conversation that our case was
almost hopeless. About one, a fine breeze sprung up from
N. W., and the cutter gained on them fast, for I heard the
oaiccrs say tint a 1 ! the sails of the cutter were asleep while
43
their's lay useless against the mast 5 it was therefore evident
that the cutter was bringing the breeze up with her ; again
hope, " sweet soother of the human breast" cheered us. At 4,
p. M ., the Active was within half a cable's length of us., and
having hailed, the confusion that ensued is beyond descrip-
tion ; some threw their sweeps overboard, others laid them
across. A small part were for engaging the Active, but the
greater part resigned themselves to their fate, and went below
to secure a few of their most valuable effects. There was one
among the crew who seemed to entertain the utmost dread of
capture, he was the boatswain, I verily believe an English-
man by birth. Previous to the Active gaining on us he spoke
good English, but after capture he entirely lost his English
tongue, and not a word but French could issue from his lips.
At 5, the beautiful English ensign again waved gracefully
over our heads; I felt truly grateful for the blessings of
this day.
The Commander of the Active had taken us on board his own
vessel, and told us candidly, that the moment our brig went
into port, the gang would visit her, and no doubt take every
man fit to serve in the navy; but, added the Commander, any
of you who fear being pressed, may remain on board the vessel,
and when the salvage is paid, return to your own ; which offer
was thankfully received by all but two, who being pensioners
had nothing to fear. A few hours brought us to Falmouth,
where the salvage was soon settled for, and on the 19th, we
sailed for Jersey, where we anchored on the 22nd, and got
home to my family just in time to partake of Christmas good
cheer. The winter in Jersey, was in those days invariably dull,
nothing on the move ; shipping, topmasts struck, unemployed ;
it was riot until the return of spring, when trade revived, that
the seamen could look forward to employment ; the brig was
likely to lie up for some months, and I to be idle.
For several months great anxiety had been entertained about
the fate of my father, and his vessel, as no intelligence had
D2
44
been received from him; years had rolled on almost unperceived
and unheeded^ since we had parted from each other, and
although our time together had been very short, still his kind
care of me while with him, his attention to all my wants at
parting, had made me love him most sincerely. I determined
to go across to Guernsey, and endeavour to ascertain what
might have been his destiny, as also for the double purpose of
making a tender of my services, to go as chief mate in any
vessel in the same employ. I was aware that my father had a
great deal of interest with his owners, and that might be the
means of my getting master of a vessel much sooner than I
should have done by remaining where I was ; but fearing I
might be unsuccessful, I said nothing about it, till I knew the
event ; I could then withdraw from my present employ with
ease. About noon, I landed on the pier at Guernsey, and
having just changed my dress, went to the counting house of
Mess. , but all were gone, and I was directed to the house
of one of the brothers, who acted the part of working partner,
or as it was called ship's husband ; I knocked at the door, and
was shewn into a very handsome parlour, where in a few
moments Mr. entered; a venerable old gentleman, whose
very look was calculated to inspire confidence and respect,
before he uttered a word. In a few moments I felt at home
with him, stated to him the motive of my visit, and ended by
offering my services to sail in the employ. Having attentively
listened to all I had to say, Mr, told me, that only a few
days before, letters had been received from my father who was
making a very good voyage, and was not likely to be home
that year ; he also assured me, that then there were no ves-
sels in want of mates, had there been, I should have had the
preference, but at the return of the Amazon I certainly should
go chief mate in her. I was very kindly asked to take a glass
of wine, which having clone, I left him and determined to remain
in my present situation for some time longer.
There was a very respectable house in which my father and
45
mother had always lodged on their visit to the Island, there I
went and soon obtained a lodging, and there met with my wife.
From this visit sprung an intimacy which has continued unin-
terrupted for above seven and twenty years : it is now above
six and twenty years since our union, and I have always looked
back to that day with pleasure. On my return to Jersey, I
resumed my former situation, and should have been comfortable
enough, but for the inordinate desire of rising ; I could not
submit to be under the command of a mate, a desire to be one
myself, seemed to embitter all my hours; but even at this
. distant period, when Time's ever rolling stream has hurried
years by, I feel thankful that those who had the means of gra-
tifying my wishes knew far better than myself what was good
for me. I had neither age or experience sufficient to be second
in command of a vessel where probably no one else could read
or write his name, however small she might be; and even now
I feel assured that if a correct account of the loss of merchant
vessels, and the circumstances attending such loss could be
got at, it would be found that two out of five of those vessels
were stranded or lost for want of practical knowledge at sea, by
the masters and mates of such vessels. Besides, by placing a
mere youth on a vessel's quarter deck, in command of a body
of men, however small that number may be, it raises his pride
beyond bounds, and nine cases out of ten, makes him unfit for
his station ; sincerely should I regret to fix a stain on a valua-
ble body of men, but has not the result proved the justice of
my assertion ? Shortly after my return we commenced loading
with salt and Irish provisions for Newfoundland, which we
discharged in Burin in June, and took in codfish. During the
time of our taking in our cargo, H. M. brig R Capt.
arrived and commenced a heavy press among the vessels laying
there. Aware that I should very soon become a victim to the
impress, I applied to the agent on shore, who kindly gave me a
shipping paper as a fisherman, which in all cases was a sure
protection for the whole time it was in date ; the very afternoon I
46
obtained the paper, the ship of war's boat came alongside, and
the officer jumped on board before any one was aware of her
approach ; indeed so confident was I in the protection of my
paper that I should not have moved, had I seen them coming.
The first person he saw was the chief mate, whom without
any ado he ordered into the boat; I was at the time just under
the hatchway stowing fish, when the Lieut, said "come here
my lad, who are you ?" I answered, that I belong to the room
on shore, and was sent there by my master to shew them how
to stow fish. "You have no business here, jump in the boat,
we just want such fellows as you;" I thought my very heart
would burst, but I knew there was no chance, but by putting
a good face on the matter, so I went into the boat. The officer
having examined all hands, found them too old for him, except
two apprentices ; these he ordered into the boat, shoved off, and
I found myself on my way to a ship of war. Arrived alongside
the officer jumped up ; and when we were called, all hands
came to have a look at us. I could distinctly hear the remarks
passed on us ; one old fellow whose cribbage face, and weather
beaten countenance, betokened long service, prophecied that
we should be topmates, and then, that we should be forecastle-
men, but all their calculation ended in nought. The Captain
soon came up, and we were placed before him. I first took one
good look at his face, to see if there was any thing in it from
which I could form a hope, and if the countenance be the index
of the mind, I never saw one I disliked more. His first
address was to me. "Well my man, you belong to the ship now."
No sir, I am not yet clear of one master, and cannot serve
another; "but," said the Captain, " you have no protection ;" I
then produced my shipping paper, at which Capt. looked
attentively, and then returned to me. The mate next shared his
attention, but understanding that the vessel had above the
quantity of cargo required for his protection, he told him he
only wished to see his affidavit, which with the boys' indentures
was soon brought by the master of our vessel, and in a few
47
moments we were ordered over the side, an order which we
complied with as expeditiously as possible, and I verily believe
not one of us in our way looked right or left,, fearful of being
.called back ; what a weight it took off my mind; the dread of
a ship of war was next to a French prison, but it must be
remembered that a ship of war of those days was very different
to those of the present day, now, that the service is better con-
duc'-d, and the wonderful improvements which have taken
place, render the navy superior beyond compare to any
merchant vessel. It is possible the pay may be a little less, that
I allow, but taking into consideration the regularity of diet,
routine of duty, and comfort of the whole system, it makes up
for every thing, and pensions for old age. Our cargo was soon
completed, we sailed for Cadiz, where fish sold well ; at that
time the French had possession of Rota. Spanish boats used
to watch for a heavy breeze from the Eastward, and come
alongside, purchase a cargo of twenty or thirty quintals, and
make all sail out, and by night get into Rota, where they got
an immense price for their fish. Some of them were caught,
whiie we lay there, but that deterred none of the others, indeed
we ought to have been punished as well as them, but as they
gave us one dollar more per quintal, 112lbs, we cared little
where they took it ; I frequently felt that it was an act of
injustice to assist the enemies of our country, but I was a servant.
On the 18th of October, we sailed for Jersey ; the vessel had
during the last month made much water, so that 011 her return
late in November, she was laid up in the piers. I felt an
earnest desire to go across to Guernsey, and again learn what
expectation there was of my father's return ; that was not my
only motive, but that was my excuse. On my arrival at
Guernsey. I found that several letters had been received, but
that the Amazon was not expected home that year at least, so it
was thought, if she was found seaworthy : again I returned
home, and soon again sailed for Newfoundland, with a cargo
of wine. On the passage out a man named Peter Anderson,
48
doing something on the starboard foretop-sail yard arm fell, and
coming down, went through the booby hatch into the forecastle
and was dead in a very few minutes ; he was a most horrid
swearer and reprobate. Some noises heard in the forecastle,
most likely the rattlings of blocks, induced the seamen to
suppose the forecastle was haunted, and that the ghost of
Anderson was holding his nightly visit, where his body had
met with its death ; nothing was kept there but water casks,
spare rope, and vessePs store. Our men messed just before
the cabin ; as soon as this opinion became prevalent, no con-
sideration could induce one of them to go down there after
night, and as little as possible in the day time, so very little
affects the weak minds of seamen in general, unless polished
by education.
A circumstance occurred some time after which would have
caused a deal of uneasiness had it not been cleared up. One
evening, about seven o'clock, the maintop-sail reef tackle was
carried away, and a piece of rope was required out of the
forecastle to repair it, but who was to go down became a
matter of discussion. I was aloft at the time, but came down
just in time to witness a man named N going down ; he
was an old man-of-war^s man, and prided himself upon his
superior courage and seamanship, and completely carried the
sway over those, who, as he observed, had never learnt
manners in a man-of-war. He went down, but I suspected
only half his courage was sound, the other moiety of it was
doubtful, time will show, thought I ; only a few moments had
elapsed from his head being out of sight below, when it again
re-appeared, but it was no longer the same ; his countenance
pale, and his hair like bristles. All his appearance pourtrayed
the utmost consternation ; springing over the windlass, he ran,
or rather flew to the master who was sitting on the hen coop
abaft, in a thoughtful mood, and putting his hand upon his
shoulder, " oh master, master, the d 1 is in the forecastle, I felt
him as -sure as you sit there ;" "is he," said the master? " I
49
must see/ 5 and walked forward but did not evince the slightest
wish to go down.
Sensible of the ill effect of such opinions prevailing, for all
hands would have left us, and most of them from pride, to shew
my courage,, a great part of which was assumed, I said, " well,
if you are all afraid to face this gentleman, I will go and have a
peep at him ;" I went down, but it was with fear and trembling,
and before I was well down a profuse perspiration covered my
body. But the horror that thrilled my very frame, when
on going to the spot where the rope was stowed, my hand
rested, not on rope but on a smooth hairy skin, quite warm.
I staggered back, and should have gone up to confirm N '&
statement, when a low moaning noise met my ears, and
attracted my attention, and I found with real delight that it
proceeded from Juno, a large Newfoundland dog, who by
some accident had tumbled down the hatch and had not been
missed. Delighted with the end of an adventure which I felt
assured would reflect much credit on my courage, I hurried up,
and laughing, said, " well you certainly are a sensible set of
fellows, to be frightened at an old Newfoundland dog ;"
surely they never taught such courage as that in a ship of war.
The dog was got up and the affair passed over ; it had,
however, the double effect of giving me a character for courage,
and removing the idle fears of the sailors, or if any remained,
they were ashamed to show them.
December 18th, arrived in Jersey; during the voyage the
Captain and myself had very much disagreed, so much so, that
I determined never again to sail with him, and although he
was nearly related to me, I must candidly confess that every
particle of the fault was mine, for during the whole of my
service with him he treated me with the greatest kindness ;
but a certain unconquerable temper caused us to disagree.
I had the happiness of finding all my family well, and found
several letters from Guernsey, waiting my return ; just then
my mother expressed a wish that I should seek a wife, and
50
had fixed her eye upon a distant relation, an amiable girl,
possessed of property, to whom she wished to see me united ;
but as every eye forms its own beauty, and every heart its
affections for itself, I refused her offer, considering it a privi-
ledge due to myself in so momentous a case to suit my own
wishes.
Determined not to sail again in the Esther, and if I could
avoid it, in the same employ, I hastened across to Guernsey,
in the sincere hope the arrival of the Amazon would give me
an opportunity of getting chief mate ; but as before, my hopes
were disappointed, and I returned to Jersey, oppressed with
care and fears for my future prospects. I had been back
about a week when the painful intelligence arrived of the death
of my father, who had fallen a victim to the fever then raging
at Messina, in Sicily ; out of every man on board, only two
survived the distressing disorder. To me it was a severe shock,
and doubly so to my poor mother, who took it veiy much to
heart. At first it was conjectured that some poison had been
administered to them, but upon a strict examination it was
ascertained that the fever had caused their deaths. Painful
indeed must have been their last moments, for such was the
fear of infection, that of all the vessels that were attacked with
it, no one would venture on board. The most powerful rewards
could tempt no one to administer succour in the painful
moment to the afflicted there they must live or die as it
pleased the Almighty to dispose. Medicines were sent off, and
passed on board in a square copper kettle, having a long
chain to it, similar to those used in our quarantine grounds ;
the end of the chain was thrown to any one on deck who
might be able to haul it in, the medicines, &c. taken out, and
the kettle well washed overboard before it was taken into the
boat again.
Sincerely did I mourn the loss of my father, for the many
acts of affectionate kindness I had received from him, during
our short meetings, had rendered him dear, very clear to me ;
51
had there been nothing else, his general character and the re-
spect in which he was held by ah 1 who knew him, was a credit
to his memory. As a token of respect from the owners of the
Amazon, and several other gentlemen of the Island, a very
handsome marble slab was engraved with his name, age, &c.,
at the top was a weeping willow, with a tomb, over which
leaned a female with a child in each hand, and under, some few
lines of poetry. The stone was sent out, but the Sicilians
deeming heretics unworthy of so pleasing a memento, forbade
its being put down : it mattered but little to the dead, but to
his surviving friends it would have been gratifying ; he is no
more, his toils and sorrows are over, gone ( * to that bourne from
whence no traveller e'er returns. " I trust we may meet in
realms of happiness where all cares end and all are equal.
On opening the will, which for years had been in the
possession of my mother, it was found that two-thirds of his
property had been left to his widow ; the other third was to
be divided between myself and elder brother. I felt really
pleased that the young man had not been neglected, for I
knew from his general character that he was well worthy of it,
and not only that, but I was aware it was his just due, and to
have taken any share, however small, beyond my own, I should
have deemed an act of injustice. The house and land had
long before been sold to make good some losses in North
America. On a division it was found that our share of the
property would amount to 250 each, in the three per cent,
consols : to me, who had never before possessed such a sum,
it raised me far more than it should have done, and upon the
whole did me but little good. I again waited on the owners,
and got a promise that the moment the Amazon returned, I
should join her as chief mate.
February 4th, 1812, the vessel arrived on the piers, and in
command of Mr. C. who had been chief mate with my father;
from him I got the clothes, nautical instruments of my father,
as also his watch ; and, as the vessel was now to be laid up, I
52
returned to Jersey. There was in my conduct at that time a
great want of confidence in my mother, who had not the
slightest idea that I intended to marry, and aware of the power
she had of persuading me, I did all I could to prevent it from
coming to her knowledge until her powers of persuasion would
be useless.
On the 5th April, 1812, having collected what ready money
I could muster, I left Jersey in a small sloop, called the
Pleasant Hill of Portsmouth. Towards evening the wind died
away, and the tide sweeping us back into the roads, obliged
us to let go our anchor ; as I walked her deck, anxiously
looking out for a breeze, I observed that the vessel was very
light upon the water, and lifting up one of her hatches I dis-
covered that she had a clean swept hold. Not a vestige of
stone, sand, or any thing in the shape of ballast was there,
on my noticing it to the master, he said, ee oh that's nothing,
I have done it frequently before ;" oh, said I, the pitcher, &c.
you know the rest ; the idea of knocking about the Islands
in a vessel without ballast had no attractions for me, and I
would gladly have gone on shore had opportunity offered, but
there was no boat to be got. It became needful to make the
best of a bad bargain, and at all risks remain where I was ;
certain it is that the idea of a watery grave is unpleasant at
the best of times, but doubly so when just on the very eve of
marriage.
3, P. M. a fine breeze sprung up and the vessel soon ran her
distance ; at 1, A. M. we hove to about four miles outside the
roads to wait for water in the piers, I told the master that if
he would go and lay down I would keep the deck as I was not
sleepy, to which he agreed, and went below while I remained
on deck. Fatigued, he soon dropped asleep, so did the lad
who had been left on deck with me ; I availed myself of the
favourable moment to run in, put the helm up, and run her
into the roads. I could, as I thought, plainly see the lights of
the Vulture, which at that time was guardship, and kept run-
53
ning for them, and should without any doubt have sacrificed
my life as well as those of the others, had I kept on five
minutes more ; for on looking under the foot of the foresail,
the first thing that struck my eyes was one vast sheet of foam
from the sea beating on the castle rocks. I had mistaken the
lights ; thank God my presence of mind never forsook me,
the sheets had not been eased off, the helm put gently down,
and the vessel coming up to the wind, cleared, and barely
cleared the rocks. On looking over her lee quarter as she
passed them, I could with ease have thrown a bullet on them.
Then when all danger was over I gave way to a sense of it,
and the perspiration rolled in large globules down my cheeks ;
when I recovered I went down to the master, and having
awoke him, said, ef I thought the current must have been more
powerful than he expected, for that we were close to the
Vulture." He seemed doubtful of my assertion, but on coming
on deck was soon convinced of the fact, and almost felt
inclined to doubt his own eyes ; he was, however, obliged to
let go his anchor, the very thing he had been endeavouring to
avoid. At 6, A. M. I went on shore, and although the time
was short and expence great, I was married that evening at
seven o'clock in the Dean's parlour, and took the same
lodgings in which my father and mother had before lived.
Six and twenty years have rolled along since that day, at this
very moment I look back on it with pleasure. Cares and
troubles have thickly strewed our path, but that benevolent
Being who rules above, has poured the balm of comfort and
soothed our cares.
54
CHAPTER VII.
VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS OCCURRENCES THERE.
Could those few happy hours again appear,
Could one wish bring them, would I wish them here ;
1 dare not trust my heart, the dear delight
Seems so to be desired, perhaps I might.
COWPER.
SOME days after our marriage I wrote to my mother to
acquaint her with it, and begged forgiveness for an intentional
fault 5 and although she had the greatest reason in the world
to he angry at my want of confidence, (not to say deceit)
S;till she forgot all, and came across to us and arrived on the
following Sunday ; the moment my wife was introduced to
her they were friends. A certain something which few can
describe,, attached them to each other ; she remained with us
only a week wishing to return home, but at parting made
us a present of ready money, making it a wish, that on my
sailing, my wife should go and live with her. On the 20th
the order was received for the Amazon to fit out afresh for the
Brazils with a cargo of wine and oil ; it was the same she had
brought to the Island and had only been discharged for the
purpose of repairing the vessel and coopering the casks. As
soon as she commenced the out-fit, I was sent for to the
office and desired to join her as chief mate, an order I was not
long in obeying. I was informed that Messrs. always
made it a rule to allow their mates one guinea per month more
than the wages of the port, and observed, it made them more
55
attentive and careful ; they remained old servants, and the
money was never lost. I felt a deal of pride at the situation I
had thus obtained, but doubly so at having extra pay ; my
monthly pay was at this time seven guineas, besides some
little property in the bank ; how very comfortably I might
have lived. Comfort and respectability was within my grasp,
but I had formed a circle of acquaintance, from which I could
not break off, got into an expensive way of living, and I found
it impossible to retrench. I never gave way to excessive
drinking, but still kept company with those who did, and thus
wasted considerable sums which would have been of more
service at home.
May 2nd, 1812, it being high water about nine o'clock, I
went down to the pier to see how her legs stood, entirely de-
voted to my vessel, grateful to the owners, I determined no
just fault should be found for neglect. As I stood at the
vessel's bow, the fire bell struck out its melancholy peal. Now
in my opinion scarce any thing is so calculated to alarm as the
fire bell ; it is meant to alarm, arid it fully answers its purpose,
it seems to say, " prepare with awful strength." Crowds of ,
men, women, and children were running here and there dif-
ferent ways ; it was difficult to find out which way the fire
was guided at last by an immense volume of smoke, as if
from a volcano, I reached the front of a draper's shop, from
which frightful flames issued. A few minutes after my arrival
the wall on one side the house gave way, and as it fell out-
ward buried two men in its ruins. Afcer an hour's hard
labour with pick axes and shovels, the poor creatures were
taken out barely alive and dreadfully crushed ; only one house
was destroyed, the rest were prevented from taking fire by
the great exertion of the engineers. A collection was set on
foot next day for those injured, and a circular of thanks sent
from the civil authorities to those who had exerted themselves
and been seen in clanger. Previous to my sailing in the
Amazon, I procured a passage for my wife in one of the
56
trading vessels of the Island; and on the 15th May,, 1812, at
10, A.u.y the Amazon was between the pier heads ready for
making sail. Painful was the parting with my wife, but such
things must occur ; I have often thought while lying at
Spithead, ready for sea, when the boatswain's shrill whistle
pipes all hands up anchor, how many hearts it causes to sink
below Zero, and on looking at the well manned capstan, slowly
performing its revolutions, how many smiling countenances
hide an aching heart. Although now a married man, the
task of supplying my tea chest, had still fallen upon my
mother ; it had arrived just previous to my sailing, so that it
remained untouched until after the vessel had been some days
at sea. When I had a little leisure to examine it, I found
that although my conduct had been such as to be undeserving
of her kindness, my mother had neglected no one thing to
render my outfit full as complete as ever it had been ; indeed
supposing it to be the last trouble of the kind I should give
her, my stock was liberal in the extreme ; near the bottom of
the chest, amid numerous other little presents, I found a
ribbon in which were neatly stitched nine guineas in the event
of being taken by an enemy.
A very fine passage of nine weeks put us inside of the
sugar loaf, in the harbour of Rio Janeiro, and the same evening
the vessel was moored head and stern off the custom house ;
the market being at the time very low of wine, ours sold almost
at our own prices ; the oil had to be landed, coopered and
filled up, for which purpose a store was hired of a Portugueze
merchant, over which was a loft, where all our lumber could
be stowed. Between that store and the other was a narrow
passage which led into an unfrequented garden, but a window
of our loft looked directly into the loft of the next store, where
upon dry grass were spread a beautiful show of apples, appa-
rently the produce of some distant part, and kept there for
market. It appears that two of our lads had fallen in love with
these apples, and had in vain racked their prolific brains to
57
find means to get them without success ; they might have
jumped into it, but how to get back was a question not so
easily solved ; they had very near given it up, when a little
urchin named C , and nephew to our master, came on shore ;
he was ever ready at mischief and to him they showed these
apples, well knowing if there were in the world, any means of
getting at them, Johnny would find it. For a moment Johnny
considered, and scratching his shaggy head said, I will have
some this afternoon; that was enough, the lads were satisfied.
In the afternoon I was surprised to see Jacko, the monkey, come
on shore in a bag, and on my noticing it, the boys said they
were going to give him a run on shore. It was afterwards
found out that Jacko was to be the means by which the boys
were to rob the poor Portuguese of his fruit ; the monkey with
a rope round his middle was thrown into the opposite window,
where he soon seized two, sometimes more apples, and was
hauled across ; when a sufficiency had been thus procured,
the monkey was rewarded \vith one or two. They might have
continued much longer had not Jacko in his transit dropped
an apple in the passage nearly on the head of the poor slave
who had charge of them. The slave who had been beaten
on suspicion of eating them, and who really supposed they
vanished by magic, ran and told his master what he had seen.
The man with all the rage of a Portuguese slave owner, foaming
at the mouth, came into the store and asked to see Mr. C
the master, but not finding him, insisted that immediate pay-
ment should be made, and that the boys should be beaten with
his stick. Rather than any thing unpleasant should take place
I would have paid any reasonable sum, but Don was not to be
satisfied, and after a multiplicity of words, I told him English-
men were free, and not to be beat about with sticks like
slaves to please the caprice of any man. This observation
changed the current of the Don's anger, from the boys to me,
and in his wrath he forgot his apples, boys and all. He laid
a serious complaint before our consignee, who pronounced it
58
a boyish freak,, but advised the master to pay for the fruit,
which was done, and thus ended the affair.
During our stay here, the foremast being found defective, it
was necessary to replace it, which delayed us nearly a week ;
our cargo of hides, tallow and sugar complete, September 8th,
we left Rio. Almost from the very moment of our leaving
Guernsey, the health of Mr. C - had been on the decline,
and during his stay at Rio, it increased to such an alarming
degree, that he was quite incapable of attending to his duty,
and I might be said to be master of the Amazon : an inter-
mittent fever was his disorder, and he felt as he told me, that
his mortal career was nearly at a close, still he persisted in
leaving port with me ; 1 7th, the fatal event, long anticipated,
took place. By his death I became confirmed in the command
of the vessel, indeed none other could be appointed, for among
all hands not one could write his name but myself, much less
navigate a vessel across the ocean. This event did not increase
my duty, but it gratified my pride too strongly; a misfortune
which in many instances has caused me much care, but I
was then little above twenty-two, a mere youth. The season
was far advanced, and I expected to meet with bad weather,
and I was not disappointed. During the last five days of
the passage, one constant gale kept me ever on the deck,
and the vessel making much water, gave me great un-
easiness ; however on the 15th of Nov. after a very thick
fog at 10, A. M. I had the happiness of seeing St. Martin's
point, and at 11, 30, let go our anchor in the roads to wait
tide for the piers. I had certainly obtained soundings, but
from the time of my leaving Rio, had seen no land, or spoke
to more than one vessel. As soon as the sails were furled, I
went on shore, and on the piers met two of the owners, who
were at first surprised to see me, but on my stating the
death of the master, and giving an account of my voyage, and
cargo, both gentlemen shook hands with me, and gave me a
warm and cheering welcome.
59
From my having brought the vessel home, and the reception
I had met with, I made sure that I should be confirmed in the
command, and that the register would be altered accordingly ;
but hearing nothing about it in my frequent visits to the
officer,, and no immediate prospect of an outfit, I requested
leave to go home for sometime, which was granted ; and I
was told at leaving, that, as soon as the outfit recommenced,
notice should be sent to me. November 23rd, I left Guernsey,
and on the 24th, I landed on the pier, at Southampton ; after
having changed my dress, I called upon my old master, the
Rev. Mr. W , rapped at the door, which was opened by
the old gentleman himself. There was but little difference in
his look ; the wig neatly curled and well powdered, black coat,
and starched cravat, recalled to my mind days gone by. " I
hope," said I, " I have the pleasure of seeing Mr. W well ;"
f( quite well I thank you. I cannot call you by name, but from
your address and manner, I suppose you to be one of my
former scholars." I gave Mr.W my name, who immediately
brought to mind the little dumpling, as I was then called, now
so wonderfully grown. Mr. W taking me into the parlour,
where Mrs. W - was preparing breakfast, requested me to
be seated ; when Mr. W hoped I recollected the rules of
the school, which were, that any old scholar who again visited,
was expected to take a seat at the dinner table during his stay,
and a bed was always prepared for him. I explained to the
much respected pair my situation in life, and the reason which
prevented my staying at Southampton. During the breakfast
time, Mr. W renewed the advice he had so often given us
boys while at school ; observing, that seamen, exposed as they
were to all dangers, should lead a life every moment prepared
for death. Methinks this very moment I see the venerable
old man, his countenance brightening with the glow of true
piety. Never shall I forget the latter part of his advice, and
the manner in which it was delivered. ce Seamen in general/ 3
said he, ee think the Sabbath a day of rest, or of pleasure.
E2
60
Believe me, Mr. B , during a long course of life., I have
found by experience, that a Sabbath spent as it ought to be
in the sacred duties of religion, invariably brings a blessing
upon the ensuing week." Happy would it have been if his
advice had made that impression then which trouble has made
in later years.
I well remember an awful death of a man in Newfoundland,
who was notoriously addicted to shooting on Sunday, and
spending the evening in drunkenness and riot; it occurred
under my own observation and is worthy of being mentioned.
While in Jersey harbour, three miles S. W. of us, was the
Harbour Britten room, in which Mr.^S was agent. As
society was scarce in winter, the agents were glad to visit each
other, and frequently spent whole weeks together ; and I was
often invited to spend a few days in the Harbour Britton room
with Mr. S . During one of these visits, it so happened
that taking a walk early on Sunday morning with him,
along the beach, we were met by a man carrying one of those
long duck guns, used by Newfoundlanders, to shoot game in
winter ; as he came near us, Mr. S said, fe what Oxford,
shooting again on the Sabbath ? take my advice, leave it off,
a day will come, when you will wish you had. Leave it off,
Oxford, continued Mr. S impressively, and if at any time
you want half a day to go shooting, (he was a blacksmith, and
attached to the rooms), you shall have it. 39 His answer was
awful ; looking Mr. S full in the face, he thus addressed
him. "Mr. S , by my shipping paper, Sunday is the
only day I can claim as my own, of that day no one can
deprive me, I may enjoy myself as I please ; two Sundays
now I have been beating among these rocks, without killing
one duck, but this day, this very day, I must have ducks or
I will go to h 1 after them." Remonstrances were vain,
he proceeded ; would to heaven I could end here. Night
came, and after it day, but no Oxford appeared ; three weeks
elapsed, and he was almost forgotten; and if ever thought
61
*>f, it was only when something was required at the forge.
About three weeks afterwards one of the fishermen was
driven into Deadmair's Cave by a fresh breeze ; on landing,
just under the Bluff as it was then called, (but since that
Oxford's Point) he observed on the strand the remains of a dead
body in a state of decomposition, most of the flesh torn off by
foxes ; there was no proof of the identity, save the clothing, of
the unfortunate creature. It was supposed that the poor
fellow had gone to the top of the Bluff at high water to watch
the coming in of the wild fowl, had fired, and his gun must have
kicked him, and rolled him over, for near the remains there
lay the gun just as discharged. The fisherman hastened to
Mr. S , gave him an account of what he had seen, when
Mr. S went to the spot and ordered the remains to be
buried at high water mark. Passing that way some days
after it was found that the foxes had again dragged the body
up, and the bones were laying here and there strewed about
the strand. Mr. S again ordered them to be buried, and
as a memento for himself, took one of the thigh bones which
he cleaned and put over his bed and kept it there for years,
where I saw it some time after. Mr. S. is still living not far
from Portsmouth, and will doubtless see these lines, and if
needful, could confirm this statement.
But to proceed ; the coach did not start for P till
late at night, and determined not to wait, four of us, pas-
sengers, agreed to take a post-chaise for G ; about two
in the afternoon I was set down at the door where my wife
and family resided. It has been with me a question whether
pride or fear most predominated in my driving to the very
door in a carriage, but I think fear was uppermost. I had
heard much of a press officer at G , who was not at all
nice whom he took to serve His Majesty, and I knew a chaise
would be sacred from his search. I very soon had the hap-
piness of seeing my wife in all the bloom of health. Although
a perfect stranger, I met with a pleasing reception ; among her
62
relations was one who had been an officer in the navy and who
being superannuated, had procured a situation in the French
prison, a short distance from G ; and my time passed
delightfully among the family of my wife, who were highly
respectable. It so happened one morning that having taken
a walk to F , in going towards the office of my wife's
uncle, I missed my way, and before I was aware of it got into
the Captain's gardens at the very back of the depot. Just as
I turned a corner, in order to get out of the scrape I was in,
I met face to face with Capt. W , the then Commandant,
who knowing I had no business there, and supposing me one
of the French prisoners who was attempting to escape, collared
me, asking me what I was, and why there ? at any other
time or place to have put his hand on my collar would have
been dangerous, but I reflected for one moment, and explained
to Capt. W , what had brought me there, and answered
all his questions ; not satisfied, however, he took me round
to the office of Mr. C , who sitting at his desk, was sur-
prised to see me thus accompanied. C , said Captain
W , are you in any way acquainted with this gentleman ?
oh yes, said Mr. C , he is my nephew : oh, then its all
right, said Captain W , but when he comes again, let some
one shew him the way, for I found him in my garden ; and
politely wishing me good morning Captain W left me.
December 29th, my wife was confined of our first child,
and as we intended settling as near her relations as possible, I
wrote to the Agents in London to sell out the stock left me
by my father, and early in January received a check for
158 6s. 8d., being the produce of 250 in the 3 per cent,
consols purchased furniture, and was as comfortable as I
could well be, trusting firmly that I should soon be sent for
to take command of the Amazon ; it was not the case, and this
which I thought a heavy misfortune proved a blessing in
disguise.
63
CHAPTER VIII.
VOYAGE TO PRINCE EDWARD^S ISLAND, NEWFOUNDLAND,
&C.
SOMETIME in March I received a visit from a person who
then commanded a small vessel, in the employ of the parties
the Amazon belonged to ; by him I learnt that the Amazon was
again to be fitted out for Rio and the command given to a
young man a distant relation of the owners, but who was my
junior by two years ; he was farther to tell me, that it was the
desire of the owners that I should go out as mate again. Com-
pletely upset at the offer, I, however, endeavoured to hide my
chagrin, and said, will you, sir, tell Messrs. P , that I want
no mate's berth ; as master I fulfilled my duty, and did justice
to my employers, and could have continued to do so, but
never will serve as mate under a mere boy ; my friend then
told me that the owners anticipating a refusal on my part, had
ordered him to pay me the amount of my wages amounting
to 23.
My prospects certainly appeared dark just then, for I had
been sometime out of employment all going out nothing
coming in. I had sought no employment, but the ways of
Providence are inscrutable, for what I considered a great mis-
fortune proved a blessing indeed. The Amazon fitted out and
sailed. Walking down Middle-street one forenoon I met the
youthful Captain, who like me, was haughty and proud, and al-
though schoolfellows, he scarce conversed with me ten minutes ;
he told me the Amazon was then at Spithead, and would sail
that afternoon for Rio. She did sail. I took one last look at
64
her, but since that day no tidings have been received of her ;
most likely she foundered in the Bay of Biscay.
A few days after the sailing of the Amazon, I received a
letter from my mother,, saying, that she felt quite lost without
my company, and that of my wife ; and if it met our approba-
tion, she would come and end her days with us. With real
pleasure her offer was accepted, and about the middle of April,
we had the happiness of seeing her arrive in good health. At
this time my funds were getting low ; my family, and with it
my expences increasing, which depressed my spirits dreadfully,
and operated upon my health. My dear mother soon per-
ceived that there was something not right, told me how uneasy
my want of confidence made her, and by her conduct induced
me to lay before her the exact state of my finances.
I recollect it well as she spoke, my babe was .in her arms ;
" John," said this best of mothers, " you have been a Captain,
you will never do for a Mate again. Look out for some good
vessel, purchase a part of her, and command her yourself ; I
will advance the money ; and as the Lord prospers you, you
can repay me ; your care and attention to your family will be
part payment/' What added to her generosity, was that the
sum seedful to be advanced was nearly half her all.
A relation of my wife, living at Portsmouth, carried on the
business of ropemaker and ship chandler, in a very large way,
and was reputed very rich; he was also owner of several
small vessels. Happening to call at his house one day, I was
pressed to stay and take dinner, I consented, and during the
dinner, happened to name that I was desirous of purchasing
part of a vessel, and go out as master of her myself; Mr.
who sat at the head of the table overhearing what I said,
observed, that no one could serve me so well as Mr. , for
he had to do with craft of all sizes, and that he was then
building a ship at Prince Edward's Island ; Mr. , who
had overheard the latter part of our conversation, told me
that a few days ago he had purchased the hull, and afterwards
65
the materials of a fine new schooner privateer, cut out of
Chesapeake Bay, by the Saracen ; prize made free, and that
her tonnage was 195-jj-Jths tons,, and if I chose I might have
any part of her, and command her. Mr. said she was
immediately to fit out to carry stores and provisions for the
new ship then building, after which I might make a trading
voyage to Newfoundland, or where I chose ; he spoke so well,
his story so plausible, that 'after dinner I went to look at the
vessel ; and so anxious was I to complete the business, that I
did not give her half the examination I should have done ; I
liked her well, she seemed a good sailer, and well adapted to
the Newfoundland trade. It was agreed that I should go
home, inform my family of the affair, and decide from their
opinion and my own. I went home, laid down the beauty
of the vessel so powerfully, that all agreed that to take a part
of her was for the best. Things settled thus, the next morning
I went across to Mr. , drew a form of an agreement, by
which I proposed to purchase one-third of the vessel as soon
as she was fitted out and completely equipped and ready for
sea, with not less than six months provisions for twelve men.
Mr. - - was to settle every expence, and on his producing
vouchers, I was to pay one-third the amount in ready cash ;
the agreement was approved and signed, a duplicate also made
out and signed, so that each of us had one in his possession.
May 9th, 1813, I took charge of her; Mr. and myself
went to the custom house, Portsmouth, swore ourselves sole
owners of the vessel called W n, and the register was made
out in my name. As I observed before, Mr. carried on
business as a ship chandler; of course he furnished the articles
necessary to the outfit, but those I soon found were supplied
of a very inferior quality ; I felt vexed at this beginning, but
fully determined not to submit to injustice, I went so far in
one instance as to send back a quantity of blocks, sent on
board for use, which being warped and wooden pins, the
shivers did not traverse. From various circumstances I soon
66
found Mr. was not the man I expected to find him ; but
sensible my hand was in the lion's mouth, I determined to
get it out without a wound if possible, particularly as I was
aware that once in blue water I could act according to my own
judgement.
Not having a complete cargo, I was asked what was best
for Newfoundland market, and advised some good hawsers to
be made from 3 to 6 inch. In a short time thirty tons of
rope was completed and sent down, but when it came, I found
it twice laid. I remonstrated with Mr. whose only answer
was C( do the best you can with it, I shall depend on you/'
In addition to the rope, I took in sixty tons measurement
of household furniture for the Governor of Prince Edward's
Island, and eleven passengers ; among whom was the Sur-
veyor General, and a Magistrate who were cabin passengers.
Every thing complete, Convoy at Spithead on the 29th, ran
out of harbour and anchored as near the Commodore as pos-
sible, and attended on board the R 18, for instructions,
which were given me by the Clerk, and I kid on his desk the
usual douceur of half a guinea, returned on shore, and had a
complete settlement with Mr. L , who produced bills and
receipts for all outfitting expences. The receipts, however; were
forged, which I found out at my return to England ; he is
gone to his long account, and a long one I fear it was. My
only motive for mentioning these circumstances is merely to
make those who read acquainted with the man I had to deal
with ; in justice to myself only, I cannot say we quarrelled
over the account, but as near it as it was possible, for there
were so many overcharges that no reasonable man could have
submitted to. It was at last made out that my third of the
W n amounted to 247 12s. 8d. ; I paid the amount, and
with a receipt, well witnessed, left him. The signal was then
flying, " masters to repair on board their respective ships", I
bade adieu to my family and friends, and with their prayers
and good wishes I left them ; and in a short time stood on
67
her quarterdeck as master of as pretty a little craft as was in
the fleet., which consisted of above three hundred sail.
June 1st, 1813, the signal to weigh was made, and at 6, P. M.
the last stragglers were passed the Nab Light. The M e
64, and several other vessels were appointed for the protection
of this numerous fleet of ships. Among the number of arti-
cles sent down from London for Prince Edward's Island, was
a very large trunk marked " New publications ;" the key with
some others had been sent in separate parcels, I opened the
trunk and found that the chief part of the books were novels
and romances. I began reading these books, so very pernicious
to youth, with an avidity seldom equalled, and scarce gave
myself time to eat, and as little sleep as possible. Except those
who have experienced it, none can judge of the powerful effect
these books have on the mind, it would, nine cases out of ten
be an act of charity to burn them. Could the annals of
Bedlam or St. Luke's be correctly examined, it would be found
that the first foundations of insanity are in many cases laid
by young persons fancying themselves the heroes or heroines
of the books they are reading. From the build of the schooner,
and her having been an American privateer, I expected her to
sail well, nor was I disappointed ; and to a fast sailing vessel,
nothing is so trying as to be lagging under low canvass, while
the dull sailer heavy laden carries his all. I was not insured ;
the insurances then being high, I trusted to her sailing. To
remain in the convoy, neither suited my pocket or inclination,
I therefore determined to withdraw from the Commodore as
quietly as possible, and without risk. Accordingly at the
latter end of June, one very dark evening, I came up and
asked if the Commodore's gun had been heard ; the mate who
knew what I meant, said " no sir i" I went forward, and return-
ing in a few minutes, said there is the gun now, about four miles
a head ; you have been asleep this watch, make all sail ;
canvass was set ; at dawn no Commodore was in sight, and I
carried on.
68
July 1st, 1813; during the night it had been blowing very
heavy from S. S. W., we had several times shortened sail, and
as I made it a point to disturb the men as little as possible, I
had myself been up the whole of the night ; after breakfast I
laid down on the lockers, telling the mate to keep a good look
out, as it was wet, and very thick. I had not been there half an
hour, when the mate sung out, down the companion, e( master,
master, jump up, here's a boat bottom up on the larboard
bow;" in one moment I was up, and running forward saw
what I really believed a boat bottom up, but on looking about
I saw a great number of the same sort. I ordered the men
at the helm to keep her away a point or two, and on nearing
them I found them to be bales floating high out of the
water, and endeavoured to hook some with a boat hook, but
the canvass with which they were covered tore and left some
particles on the hook, by which we discovered that they were
bales of cotton which some vessel had lost. I had on deck
a light clinker-built boat quite new and in good order, four of
the men volunteered to go in her and try to bring some along-
side, and they took several long hook ropes, and during the
day bale after bale they brought, twenty-one in number. Two
more vessels hove in sight and each of them picked up several
bales ; they weighed each from 250 to 360lbs. ; it was late
before we had got them in, and lashed round the bulwarks.
About an hour before sunset, the M e hove in sight,
having still the distinguishing vane at the mast head ; it was
useless to go on, so making a virtue of necessity I bore up,
and ran down to her ; no notice was taken of me, and I was
all right, determined to slip again the first opportunity.
A few days after my return under the Commodore's wings,
the R e came into the convoy with an American brig she
had captured after a long chase. At this time the bales of
cotton lashed round the bulwarks just shewed over it, and a
vessel to leeward might see them well on deck. I made no
mystery of it, I was however surprised one afternoon to see
69
the R e bear up, and running on my weather quarter, hail,
ef schooner ahoy," " shy" answered I, " what are those bales on
your deck ?" " bales of cotton sir, they are mine ;" heave to,
and I will send for them ;" " aye aye sir," replied I, " but at
the same time if }~ou get them it will be strange ;" so I thought
but said nothing. A boat came alongside, the Lieutenant
jumped on board, and looking round without addressing one
word to me, who was there ready to receive him, ordered the
first man he saw to unlash these bales ; the man was about
to comply, when I said to him " T who feeds you, and
pays your wages ?" ee you do master," said the man, sur-
prised at the question ; et then at your peril touch the bale, if
this gentleman wishes to take it, he is quite welcome to do so,
his own men must unlash and hoist it out, none of you touch it."
The officer, a very young man, was about to command,
when I told him very quietly, sir, this vessel is mine, I alone
command her ; these bales were picked up upon the high sea,
not a pendant in sight or within hearing. I am aware you
can take it if you please, I will not resist; I call my men, and
your men, sir, to witness I object to give it up ; but before
you take it away recollect, that to take any thing from a vessel
at sea is an undoubted act of piracy ; and as I cannot submit
to be robbed, you must stand the consequence. I can scarce
describe the rage the officer threw himself into, but as I was
not under his command, I cared little ; he however used such
language as I have seldom heard since, but he left me
and went to his own ship. In a short time I saw the R e
haul close to the wind and speak to the Commodore, ; and as
I expected, my pendants were seen flying ; I hauled close to
the wind, and the M e keeping a point or two away, we
soon closed ; when near enough I was informed a boat would
be sent for me, and I was desired to bring my log, instruc-
tions, &c. Independent of the regular log, I kept a private
journal, I took that also, and just ascended on one side, as
7o
the Commander of the R e came up the other. No one
took any notice of me,, but in a few moments the Admiral and
Captain came out of the poop cabin ; I stood there, with my
hat off, when the Admiral motioning me to put it on again,
desired Captain to state his complaint, which was
done in a manly and truly gentlemanlike manner, and finished
by saying, that for himself he cared nothing about it, justice
to his officers and men alone made him anxious to get the bales.
The Admiral then turning to me, said " well sir, now let
us have your version of the story." I stated from memory,
the circumstances as they had occurred, and brought private
and ship's log,- to corroborate my statement. I was asked if
during the day I had heard any gun; answering in the
negative, the Admiral said " then sir, you are determined
not to give up the bales ;" f not unless ordered in writing by
yourself sir, or taken by force." " Well Capt. ," ob-
served the Admiral, " I really cannot see the justice of your
claim, had it been willingly given up, it would again have been
yours, but I do not think myself justified in ordering it to be
taken away, therefore go on board my man, and take care of
your bales." I begged leave to report to the Captain of the
R e, the language and conduct of the officer sent on board
my vessel, who was ordered on board the flag ship. As I was
leaving the quarter deck, I heard the Admiral say to his own
Captain B , " I admire the fellow's spirit." Thus ended
our affair, which, but for a little presence of mind, might have
caused me the loss of valuable property.
From the 3rd to the llth July, it blew heavy, and a thick
fog, and when it cleared up only four of our immense fleet of
ships were to be seen, and these four were merchantmen. I
kept on my course, and on the 14th, got soundings on the
grand bank, rounded to, and fishing for one hour and got a
plentiful supply and made all sail Westward. On the 18th,
about two in the afternoon, the weather being very thick, I
71
fell in with a brig, all sails set, standing in directly for Cape
Rare. Assured that he was out of his reckoning, I hailed to
know where he was bound to ; ce to Quebec/' was the answer ;
I found that for several days he had no meridian altitude, and
told him, that if he continued as he was now going, in three
hours he would be hard and fast on Cape Rare. All I could
say did not seem to convince him, but when about 4, p. M. it
cleared up, and the Cape was quite visible off deck, he was
soon glad to haul close, but could not weather the Cape.
July 21st, I anchored in Burin, and there met with a very
old friend who was agent, and part owner of a room there ;
to him I sold four tons of rope, and got several articles I stood
in need of, and sailed on the 23rd, promising at my return to
bring him some plank from Prince Edward's Island. 28th,
anchored in Hilsborough Bay; passengers went on shore,
and when the vessel was moored, I landed and reported to
the Governor my having goods for him. Early next morning
boats and men were ready to take it out.
During the day the Collector of the Customs came on board
and after some conversation, asked me what those bales con-
tained ? I answered cotton picked up at sea ; have you no
cocket for them ? no sir ; I was then informed that no permit
could be given to land them. Sometime after the gentleman
observing a hole in one of the bales, took a small quantity of
the cotton in his hand and looking at it said, what beautiful
mattresses this would make ; half a bale of it is very much at
your service sir, said I, oh, nothing of the kind said Mr. T ;
the half bale was sent up, it was not denied admittance, and
when I called at the customs to enter inwards, I heard a gen-
tleman say to the other, William I have given a permit to
the Captain of the W , to land a few bales of cotton. That
same afternoon I found a purchaser who at first oifered six-
pence per pound, then ninepence, which I took. For the
nineteen bales landed, deducting damaged cotton, I received
near two hundred pounds sterling. To each oi the men who
went in the boat I gave 10, and to those who belonged to
the vessel, I gave 5, amounting to 65 ; the rest I divided in
equal parts, and sent a bill for half the amount to Mr. ,
my brother owner. I considered that although I only owned
one third of the vessel, my being on the spot, and having to go
through the toil and labours of the day, fully entitled me to half
the produce. And even now when years have gone by upon
mature consideration, I cannot think I acted unjustly ; and
could I have known half as much as I have since learnt to my
sorrow, not one farthing should have gone to him. My busi-
ness at Hilsborough Bay ended, I agreed with a person who
kept saw mills at Orwell Bay, for the purchase of some plank
and small spars and completed my cargo on the 23rd August.
A new ship called the Duke was to be launched a day or two
before my sailing, men were very scarce and as much as 30
were offered for the run home. My crew had two months
advance before leaving home, and since that, had taken up.
some clothing, so that most of them were in debt. It is not
therefore to be wondered at that the temptation was so great,
and one morning, on awaking, I found myself left with one man
and a black lad who was apprenticed to me ; my anger was
as great as it was useless, I endeavoured to trace the fugitives
but without success, and thus left in a vessel of 195 tons with
only one man and one lad, I scarcely knew how to act. In
the afternoon a man named Young, who had been a trip or
two to St. Johir*s in a small vessel came and offered his servi-
ces to sail with me to St. John's, and no further, and had the
impudence to ask me nine guineas per month ; there was how-
ever no alternative, I must either take him or the vessel must
remain where she was. I did take him and a more useless
creature I never met with. Before I left the island I put her
under snug canvass, and on the 5th September, at 4, p. M., I
sailed for Burin.
73
CHAPTER IX.
While the pale pilot, o'er the helm reclined,
" Lists to the changeful storm ; and as he plies
His wakeful task, he oft hethinks him sad,
Of wife and little home, and chubby lad,
" And the half-strangled tear bedews his eyes.
" KIRKE WHITE."
I ENDED my last chapter reader on leaving Orwell Bay, in a
vessel of 195^4ths tons, her register to prove it, and for a
crew, an old man above fifty, I do not mean a healthy, jolly,
good looking old man with a shrewd intelligent face, so often
seen in the British navy, but I mean one of those fellows so
well known on board a man of war as belonging to the after-
guard, just fit to sweep the deck, coil ropes down, carry a
Midshipman's hammock up and down, and called by the cap-
tain of the afterguard " King's hard bargains ;" another rather
younger, equally useless, and ten times more conceited, and
to complete my crew, a lad of colour who after all was the best
servant I had. With this very hopeful crew I left the bay for
Burin, under very easy canvas, and I soon found that my
precautions were not unnecessary, for six hours after, the
wind freshened and I was obliged to furl the fore-topsail, haul
the fourth reef down in the mainsail, and make all snug for a
gale ; but before I could accomplish it, I was obliged to put
the helm down, and go aloft myself, leaving the deck to take
care of itself. The vessel behaved admirably, the sea was
awfully high, (it always is there) she rose to it like a Nautilus,
74
and while on her topsail-yard tossing to and fro I thought of
home and its comforts, (then far distant) . 6th, 7th and 8th,
it blew very heavy, I could not for a moment leave the deck.
At 2, A. M., on the 9th, it became suddenly calm and a very
heavy sea with thick fog ; uncertain where the current might
have drawn me, I sounded 53 fathoms ; 3, A.M., 35 fathoms. I
soon found from the soundings that I was not far from St.
Pierre, Langly or Mequelm, and that the tide setting into
Fortune Bay must soon send me on a ledge called the Seal
Rocks. At 4, A. M., thick fog, only 18 fathoms, let go the small
bower anchor and veered to 80 fathoms cable ; within a short
time after daylight it cleared up, and gave me a distinct view of
the Seal Rocks, not above a cable's length astern of me, and
on trying the current I found it set 2J knots into Fortune
Bay - y providentially I knew the place well having been so long
about that spot ; I could have ran into the bay, but had I done
so, it was uncertain how I might get out again.
A very signal instance of preservation had saved our lives
and the vessel, for had I kept the anchor at her bows half an
hour longer, I should have been nearly on the centre of the
rocks, from which there was but little hope of escape ; but
instead of melting into thankfulness to God for our safety, we
all soon forgot it. The day as it went on continued fine, but
the sea was still high. About noon I observed the vessel
lying nearly across the sea, and as she rolled heavily I guessed
the tide was making out of the bay, and in order to find out
more certainly, I hove an old tub overboard, which floating to
windward convinced me. We managed to get the canvas set
on the vessel, hove as much of the cable in as we could, and
having watched her head, cut the cable, and favoured by a fine
breeze from S. E. soon worked her out of the bay, and on the
12th September, 1813, came to in Burin and lashed her to
the wharf. According to promise, the Agent there not only
purchased most of my rope, plank and spars, but offered to load
my vessel with dry fish at 6s. freight per quintal as far as
75
Cadiz, 6s. 6d. to Gibraltar, and increase upwards, and 10 per
cent, primage to myself; and as cablets sold bad in the fall, my
rope was to lay in his stores till spring when it would sell
better.
Having then settled all these arrangements, I soon got the
vessel cleared; the fishing season over, men were plenty, I
could ship just as many as suited me. I commenced taking
in fish, and during my stay there, I remitted to Mr. , my
partner, the sum of *J6 14s. Od. all in Navy bills, good as the
Bank of England. October 4th, my cargo was complete, it
amounted to 2369 quintals of fish, which promised to make a
very good freight ; I also purchased with the produce of my
cotton 195 quintals on my private account, which I stowed on the
top of the cargo, and in my cabin. The vessel was deep, but
fish is a lively cargo, and having a good vessel, I flattered
myself with a short voyage. Early on the 5th, I hauled off
from the wharf, and dropped anchor in a fair way at the mouth
of Ship Cave ; then the first room on the Island belonging to
S and Co. was under the care of Mr. H their agent.
During my stay in Burin, I had entered and extended a
protest for the loss of my anchor, and the agent at Lloyd's
had supplied a new one, I was therefore safe as far as anchors
went. The wind was at E. S. E. all day on the 5th, and as I
was pacing the quarter-deck of my little vessel in the afternoon,
I observed a boat called a bait skiff, (I suppose them to be
about twenty feet keel) beating out of Ship Cave, apparently
on a sail for, pleasure. There were in her two ladies whom I
took to be Mrs. H and Miss P her sister ; as their
boat crossed my bow about forty yards to windward, I walked
forward to ask them on board, but before I could address them
one of those flaws, so common in those parts, laid the boat on
her beam ends, the ladies went to leeward, the ballast shifted,
she filled, but did not sink. There were in her two ladies, a
babe fourteen months old, and four men ; I lost no presence
of mind, and never was it more required. My first idea was
F2
7?
to jump into the jolly boat then hanging astern, but on casting
one glance at the sufferers,, I observed one of the ladies all
but gone, and the babe head and legs downwards, only sup-
ported by the buoyancy of his clothing. I once heard a
gentleman say that nothing was ever done well in a hurry, but
he certainly erred, for in one moment without the slightest
consideration, only throwing my coat off, I was overboard,
(the men had come up and were lowering the jolly boat,) made
towards the child whom I actually dragged up arm's length
from under water, threw the little fellow across my neck, and
with his little hand in my mouth swam towards his mother,
who was all but gone. In those days ladies wore pelisses ;
this lady had one on with a velvet collar, and by that same
collar I saved her life, and held her up at arm's length for a
very few minutes till the jolly boat came to me. My only
fear was that she might get too close to me, and enclosing my
arms in a deadly grasp the embrace might prove fatal to both.
A constitution unimpaired left me great strength, or without
it I could never have done what I did. Two poor fellows
went down to rise in eternity, the other two were saved, as
also the other lady who got on the boat's bottom ; I had the
happiness of seeing them all seated on the lockers of my little
cabin. Years are passed and flown by, "as a tale that is told," the
baby that was then, is now an officer in the army, and bears
the marks of my teeth on his wrist to this day, and no doubt
will do so to his grave. It was the impulse of the moment that
induced me to jump overboard, but during the whole course
of my life few actions have given me more pleasure to reflect
upon. Mr. H , the husband and father of the lady and
child came off soon after, and without taking notice of any
one, jumped down the companion ; he had been told they were
dead, how sweet, how pleasing, must have been their meeting ;
I was not, would not be present even though I could ; I think
scenes like these should ever be private, sacred to love and
friendship.
77
Mr. H arid myself were merely acquainted, we had met
and that was all. As he went on shore to send necessary
clothing he pressed my hand, and with a look which spoke
volumes, went into his boat ; in an hour the ladies went on
shore. Before I left Burin I saw the whole family several
times, and on my departure was loaded with presents, Mr.
H making me give him a firm promise that I would
frequently write to him, and if ever I stood in need of a friend
never to fear applying to him. Many times when oppressed
with grief and care, I have made up my mind to write to him
and seek from him that employment I knew it was in his
power to give, and such as would put me in a better way of
supporting my family than the scanty pittance a ship of war
admits of; but the horrid idea always struck me, that my own
carelessness and folly had driven me into the gulph in which
I am now. How then can we murmur, the ways of provi-
dence are inscrutable, do we not see it daily. October 10th
I left Burin and after a fine though long passage, November
llth I anchored in the Bay of Cadiz. Being a stranger to
Merchant's affairs in these parts, I consigned myself to the
first English house then in Cadiz, the house of L , &c.
who very soon disposed of my cargo at a very good price, nine
dollars per quintal ; as for my own it was not landed at all,
but smuggled into small trading boats who purchased it at
half a dollar per quintal more to avoid paying custom house
dues on shore. The money I got for my fish I took to the
British Consul's office in gold and dollars, and for every
dollar I gave in I got five shillings and sixpence, bills on
government ; some I remitted home, but as I went on shore
every day, and provisions at an enormous price, I spent a deal
of money which I might have saved ; pounds flew in needless
expence ; the danger to life was also very great, the plague, as
many called it, (but in reality only a putrid fever) was raging
throughout the town. A few hours only were given to those
attacked with this fatal disorder, the moment it entered a
78
house every feeling was banished, the links of the most tender
affections were broken ; the husband deserted his wife, the
wife her husband and little ones ; indeed it seemed as if one
vast convulsion of nature had upset the town. You might
walk all day long and not see a smiling face, as the Spaniards
are seldom seen to smile. The Don Quixote features of the
men find it difficult to expand into any thing like a smile ; but
even the females,, whom a certain gentleman admires so much,
are devoid of that sweet diffidence,, that softness of countenance,
and lips, which though closed, yet speak volumes, and which
alone are possessed by our beauties of the North.
Amid the scenes of sickness and of death I wandered about
the town almost every day ; it is true I went into no house
which I knew to be infected, but I was liable to catch disorder
in the streets ; the very air was foul, a strange infatuation
possessed me and nothing could keep me on board. The least
number of deaths returned for one day while I lay there,
except the last, were seventy-nine. The many expences I was
at and the very high wages given diminished my freight very
much, but it paid, and having done that, little more remained.
Early in December I was discharged and took in ballast ; I
might have got a freight of fruit for London, or Brandy for
Liverpool, but while I was considering which to take, one of
the men found out a plank in her bottom between wind and
water, about fourteen feet of which was so worm eaten that it
was unfit if not dangerous to take a cargo, and as it was
doubtful how far the whole of her bottom might be affected,
I hushed it up and cleared out for England. That same day
Cadiz was declared in health ; a few extra dollars procured me
a clean bill of health. A lady the wife of the Commander of a
large transport, with her son a beautiful boy, were committed
to my care for a passage home, llth, favoured by a fresh
breeze at S. E., I left the bay and as I rounded Cape St. Vin-
cent and Finisterre, the wind hauled first to South then S. W.
as if to favour me, so that on the 5th day, being the 16th
79
December, I anchored in Falmouth, and was immediately put
under strict quarantine until the 13th January ; there I
received several letters from my family, which had increased
one in number since my departure.
Intending to sail from Falmouth for home next day, on the
14th I hauled out of the quarantine ground and anchored the
vessel off Trefusis Point, in the afternoon the wind set in from
S. E. and thick ; I would gladly have gone back to the Pool
but it was then too late. Towards evening the Queen trans-
port arrived from Passages, after the Battle of St. Sebastian,
with wounded and sick soldiers, women, and children, and
anchored about half a cable's length astern of me. At 5, P. M.
it blew very heavy, the sea began to run high, and the night
looked dismal ; I was then riding at single anchor with only
fifty fathoms cable. Something required to be done for the
security of the vessel, and not having much drift room I set
the fore stay-sail with the sheet well over to port, and at the
same time put the helm hard a port, which brought the wind
about four points on the larboard bow ; I then let go the star-
board anchor and veered away on both, keeping barely enough
of the first to freshen the nip if required ; thus having one
hundred fathoms on one anchor and about fifty on the other.
This done, struck both topmasts, laid the topsail yard as near
as possible fore and aft, fore-yard as near the deck as would
allow to work. The only thing left above deck was the fore
gaft, with the fore-sail double reefed, well furled, and two
preventer sheets on it in the event of parting from my anchor ;
hatches battened down and nothing but the companion for
access below. Forbid it heaven that I should cast reflections
on men of superior abilities and years, but the event justifies
me when I say that had some in charge of vessels acted
exactly as I did, many valuable lives might have been spared.
The night was really awful, and one of the worst I ever saw ;
it was one of intense anxiety, snow and dismal darkness except
now and then when the flashes of lighning shot across the eyes.
80
At intervals it cleared away but soon returned with tenfold
horror to the dismal scene ; the minute guns of the ships in
the Carrick Roads announced to those who had time to take
notice of it, that danger was pressing there ; 10, P. M. seas
were chasing each other over our decks, which made it doubly
dangerous for those whose duty made it necessary for them
to be there.
About midnight^ a lump that had been anchored in the roads
broke adrift, and dropping athwart hawse of the Rapid,
schooner of 14 guns, did her much damage, but the Rapid^
held on, and the lump went ashore. About 3, A. M., a fine
large brig called the Lady Warren of Liverpool, whose
cargo was said to be of immense value, parted from her cables,
just and barely cleared my bows, got round the point, and ran
on the mud where she remained perched and perfectly upright.
Had the person who had charge of the brig at the time that
she parted from her cable neglected to cut the other, she
would have got athwart hawse with me and involved me in her
ruin ; as it was, by judicious conduct she was saved, and I
rode out the gale. From 11, P. M.. the Queen had fired guns,
and when flashes of lightning threw a gleam around, it was
evident from her position, that she had drifted, and was fast
approaching the rocks on which a long rolling sea was dashing
itself into a foam.
At 5, A, M., during a dreadful squall, the Queen parted first
from one, and then the other of her cables, and fell on shore
just across a rock about forty yards from the beach ; and such
was the pressure amidships, that she parted, and both parts
swinging round brought her bowsprit nearly over her taffrail.
From the account given by Mr. C , the master some days
afterwards in my hearing, it appears that during the night the
sheet cable had been ranged along the decks, and was intended
to be let go in the event of her drifting, of which there did
not appear to be much fear as the ship rode easy ; but that
the moment the men who had the watch called out that the
81
ship was driving 011 the rocks, men, women, and children
rushed up the hatchway and so completely filled the range,
that to have let go the anchor must have crushed nearly all
those in the range to death ; and before they were removed,
the ship was on the rocks. In such a case scarce anything
could have justified the anchor being let go.
When daylight came I could see the ill fated ship on shore,
heeling well over on her broadside, and the weatherside of her
covered with sufferers, almost entirely naked, exposed to the
pelting of the pitiless storm ; and by their gestures imploring
that aid, I could not give. Many threw themselves off the
wreck towards the shore, but few of those escaped being beat
on the rocks ; they were all nearly spent before daylight ap-
peared. It was a heart-rending scene, and well calculated to
rouse every thought, and action into service. I had a fine
clinker-built boat, nineteen feet long ; tne value of the boat
was nothing when compared to the life of one human being ;
I determined to make the attempt to veer her astern, and
endeavour to save some of the sufferers from the wreck ;
with some trouble we got her out, dropped her under the
vessel's stern where the sea was comparatively smooth, rove
a hawser through the ringbolt in her stem, and taking a good
turn round her foremast thwart, veered her away gently over
the long rolling sea. Every thing bid fair, and seemed to pro-
mise success ; my vessel being just in the wind's eye of the
wreck, the boat dropped amidship of her, but the sea striking
the wreck, bounded back into the boat and filled her before
one soul could get into her. I was obliged to bring the
hawsers to the windlass, but the thwart starting, the ring gave
way and the boat went on the rocks and soon was beat to
atoms. I felt little regret for the boat, though she had cost
me nineteen guineas, but a sincere grief that she had not been
instrumental in saving some poor creatures from their awful
situation. About 2, p. M., it rather moderated, and boats from
Falmouth, St. Maws, &c. came off, and after a strong effort,
82
took from the wreck the few that remained; they were few in
comparison to those that had been lost. All that day and
the next no boats could land near the spot. On the 17th, I
landed, not so much to view the fatal spot as to render any
assistance my slender means might afford. From my small
crew I took four with me, the remaining part being fully em-
ployed in repairing the damage done during the late gale. The
scene on the beach beggared description : it struck to the very
heart, and would have roused the most hardened to sympathy.
The ship in two parts was laying as nearly as possible on
her broadside, her huh 1 , in parts, resting on her own spars,
rigging, and gear of all sorts. Strewed about the beach lay
casks of provisions, cases, chests, arms, &c., and here and
there a dead body whose hand or whose face only was visible
amid the ruins of the wreck. Above one hundred had already
been buried in a hole dug for that purpose in Milar church-
yard. That same morning thirty-five had been picked up and
carried to Boyers* cellars, where they all lay perfectly naked
except a little child, I should say fourteen months old ; that still
had some part of its clothing and a silver whistle with small
bells to it, tied round its neck with a light blue ribbon. Among
the sufferers was a gentleman who had been Town Major of
one of the Peninsular towns, and coming home with his wife
and six children, and much property, all 'had perished. To
him life could scarce be deemed a mercy ; he now stood alone
in this vast universe, and which ever way he turned a dis-
tressing blank presented itself to his view. Where were now
his dear wife and his beautiful children ? alas, all a gone to
that bourne from whence no traveller e'er returns." I heard
some months after, that reason had given way under the
pressure of grief, and he was in a mad-house. As near as it
could be ascertained, above two hundred had perished, and one
hundred and nineteen were saved. The house of F and Co.
supplied the survivors with a complete suit of clothing, and
indeed the inhabitants of Falmouth, Penryn, and its vicinity,
83
interested themselves to a great degree in aid of the sufferers.
Although the gale had abated considerably,, and the weather was
finer than it had been, the wind shifted from S. E. to N. E., and
the thermometer falling from 40 to 18J, the wind again
rose very high, the sea still ran very heavy. Such was the
state of the weather, that no vessel could go Eastward ; the
roads were impassable, and several days, if I recollect right,
nine days elapsed without a mail going between Falmouth and
Plymouth ; so that during the whole of this time, my family
were in the utmost distress : for previous to the gale, I had
written to say, that I should leave Falmouth next day, so that
they all the time supposed me at sea or lost. I had also
received a letter from a friend at Portsmouth, stating that a
strong report prevailed that the affairs of Mr. , my partner
were so much deranged, that it was doubtful whether he
would not be soon a bankrupt. As soon as the roads became
again passable, I wrote to Mr. , telling him that my part
of the vessel was my all, if I lost her I was ruined ; and
begged him to tell me the real state of his affairs, and if he
was apprehensive of bankruptcy to let me know, and I would
accept of a freight offered me for Passages, which, being cables,
would stand the damp. On the 6th day I received an answer
from Mr. , couched in the most friendly terms, assuring
me that not the slightest danger existed. That there had
been a momentary cloud, which to a man in a large way of
business was nothing ; advised me by all means to come
home, and fit out for a privateer. By the tenor of his letter,
I was completely deceived, and felt fully assured of safety.
As I had remitted the whole of my freight home, I found
myself under the necessity of drawing on Mr. for 40,
which, considering the expences of the vessel, provisions^
wear and tear, was but little, and every item of which appeared
in the book ; and in my letter I informed Mr. of
the bill, and had he in his answer intimated the slightest
danger of bankruptcy, I could with ease have taken the
84
vessel to some place where she would still have been my
support ; but no hint appeared in his letter, and I became one
of his numerous victims. He is now no more, but after my
troubles, he again set up in business, and soon died and
how ? Thus, as we often see in the world, the honest man fre-
quently becomes the prey of the designing rogue : to that man
I owe two-thirds of my misfortunes, the remainder may be
chargeable on my own carelessness : the wrong he did me I
have long forgiven. His funeral was attended with grief in
coaches, while humble merit passes unnoticed to the grave
it ought not to be so for the sake of example.
January the 29th, the M sailed from Falmouth with a
convoy to the Eastward, and on the 1st February, I landed at
Portsmouth, after a fine though rough passage, anchored in
Stokes Bay, hastened home, and as I ascended the stairs I
laughed, and heard my mother exclaim " oh ! here is my boy f
in a moment I was in the room, and all my cares forgotten. I
was informed that during the several last days Mr. had
repeatedly called to know if I was returned, and left a request
that the moment I arrived I might call on him. Considering
it a point of duty, I went as soon as possible ; on the beach
I found a waterman named Butler, who having frequently
attended on me before, asked if I wanted him ; I jumped into
his boat, bid him shove off: on landing at Point, it being
nearly dark, I gave him what I took to be a shilling token,
such as were current in those days, but which ultimately
proved to be a quarter of a doubloon, the worth of one pound
three shillings. About nine, as I sat at supper, some one
rapped at the door, and on its being opened, it was found to
be Butler, who asking me if I knew the sum I had given him,
and being told one shilling, produced the piece of gold, and said
as it was not honestly got, it could do him no good ; I took
the piece and gave the man five shillings, with which he was
perfectly satisfied and thankful. Such an instance of honesty
in a man of that class deserves to be recorded in large letters.
85
But to resume. I found my partner from home and made
Mrs. acquainted with the nature of my voyage, which
was but telling over again what I had written before ; Mrs.
seemed perfectly satisfied with my account; I begged her
to tell me candidly the state of affairs, and assured her that
even now the vessel was safe, and if any danger was to be
apprehended I would that night up anchor and secure to Mr.
and to myself the means of support. She seemed alarmed
at the question, told me with a boasting smile that if Mr.
wanted ten thousand pounds credit he could obtain it imme-
diately ; Mr. himself came in, and in a short walk during
which I again informed him of all that had taken place, of
which he appeared perfectly satisfied, did not in any way
disapprove of any of my actions ; and over a friendly glass of
porter, told me again and again that all was safe, and advised
me by all means to apply for a commission, or letter of
marque, and fit out as a privateer, and as if in joke, hinted
at smuggling. At 3, I left Mr. L , highly gratified at
the assurances he had given me, and while enjoying the sweet
society of my wife and two little ones, I almost wondered
how I could ever have harboured one thought injurious to
his character ; but see what followed.
April 4th, in the afternoon, I received a message from a
very respectable Attorney, requesting to see me at his office ;
now however respectable that class of men may be, there is no
one name upon earth that is so grating to my ears, and creates
such a painful sensation as that of a LAWYER ; it seemed to be
like a N. West squall brewing in the chops of the channel, the
forerunner of evil. Gladly would I have evaded the summons
if I could. I know not what took possession of my mind,
I attended, and saw Mr. but judge what I felt, when the
following words resounded in my ears; but my chapter is
ended.
8G
CHAPTER X.
TEN WEEKS IN WINCHESTER PRISON, ITS CHINESE
PROVERBS, INMATES, CUSTOMS, &C.
" Never begin any thing of which you have not well considered the end/'
As civilly as it could be told me, I was informed that Mr.
had been declared a bankrupt on the 29th of March, that the
person who then spoke to me was appointed Attorney to the
Assignees, and that as the schooner was known to belong
mostly, if not entirely to the bankrupt, I must immediately
give her up to the creditors, and throw my claim in as a
creditor myself for my just debt owing to me. The gentle-
man might have gone on much longer I heard him not ; at
one glance I saw ruin before me, and a full view of future
misery. So completely was I overwhelmed with the shock of
my sudden fate, that for sometime I remained insensible to
events, the consideration of which a few moments before would
have carried to my mind confusion and alarm. O ! my family,
thought I, when a little recovered, what will become of my
children ? To describe the sensations that hurried through my
bosom; the recollections that rushed over me, the fearful,
terrible anticipations of those fatal moments ; the abandon-
ment of feeling with which I stood, the pale helpless being
of crushed hopes and ruined life, is more than can be told,
and if told can never be conceived ; not for worlds would I
live that day over again. The Attorney spoke kindly and
feelingly, and he certainly did feel for me ; begged me to be
calm, and look forward with hope, " yes sir," said I, <e I will
be calm," but, though, I see ruin before me, I must convince
the man who caused it that it shall not be with impunity.
God forgive me, his life nearly paid for it ; even at this distant
period., after a lapse of twenty years are gone by, my very
frame trembles at the thought of what I might have done, and at
the awful gulf on the brink of which I stood almost a murderer.
To the soothing kindness of my family, who bore ruin with
fortitude, I am indebted for my very existence. It had, as I told
the reader before, been agreed that before I took the vessel, every
outfitting expence should be settled ; I had seen receipts for
them, but only a few days after the bankruptcy I was arrested
by the sail-maker, and soon after by three other persons ; the
whole amount of whose debts were above 500. These people
aware that the bankrupt's dividends would be small, arrested
me, as master, in hopes my mother, rather than see me go to
prison, would pay or compromise ; but however good her will
might be, I knew it was quite out of her power, and had it
been even so, I would never have allowed it. I easily procured
bail and refused to give up the vessel's register, &c., and in
order to prevent another from being obtained, I wrote to the
Collectors of Customs, in London and Portsmouth, and stated
the circumstances, and that I still held the register as a
security for my debt.
On the 23rd of April, 18 , my bail being expired, it became
necessary to get special bail, or to surrender at the Sheriff's
Ward, Winchester; not one gleam appeared to cheer the
dismal prospect. I took leave of my dear family to go and
bury myself in the deep recesses of a prison, where five feet
walls repel the light of day. 27th, at 4 in the afternoon, I
presented myself at the prison, pulled the bell, the keeper
took my paper, and without the slightest compliment, said
" come in ;" the horrid grating of the gate as it shut shot
through my heart. I was led into the keeper's house, when
having answered all questions put to me, and my trunk and
cot having undergone a strict examination, the clews and rope
taken from the cot, and a bottle of hollands taken out of the
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chest, a turnkey was called and ordered to take me to No. -
on the poor debtors side, that being the side I had chosen.
Just as I got inside the ward, from all parts of the building
resounded an imitation of the crowing of a cock, I asked the
turnkey what that noise was for, and was informed it was to
announce to the different inhabitants of the place that a fresh
bird was caught, or in other words my arrival among them.
A room in which there were already five men was appointed
for me ; I walked in, and taking one look round the place,
thought it the filthiest I had ever seen, and the language I heard,
even at that moment, disgusting. With these men then and
in this place I was to spend a certain portion of my life, how
long I knew not, and for debts I had never contracted. One of
the men of my room who was sitting at a low table drinking tea,
asked me to have some, and in the course of conversation told
me that he had been an inmate of that place two years, and
had three more to stop. He had been an innkeeper and some
fraud in his accounts had caused his long confinement. He
was respected even here, for he was called by the keepers and
prisoners Mr. W , an honor seldom given to a debtor on
the poor side. From his respectable appearance I endea-
voured to form an acquaintance, and succeeded, and during
my short stay in the poor side I received from him some very
valuable information relative to the conduct I had to pursue.
He informed me among other rules that every new prisoner
was bound to give a certain sum for the enjoyment of his
room mates ; I was also told that each poor debtor was allowed
daily a loaf of bread, nearly two pounds in weight, and weekly
two pounds and a half of prime meat, and a certain quantity
of firing was also allowed to each room.
At certain hours in the day an old woman, called throughout
the prison Old Betty, was admitted for the purpose of sup-
plying the prisoners with any trifle they might want ; and
each debtor was also allowed to buy one pint of a certain
villainous compound called by her, beer, twice in the day. The
89
arrival of this old lady was the time for me to pay my garnish ;
on being called on I threw down a seven-shilling piece, which
being far more than was expected, was hailed with noisy ac-
clamation. In order to avoid joining them, I laid my cot in
the cleanest corner I could find, and endeavoured to drop
into sweet forgetfulness of human care, but rest for a time
was fled; the difference of circumstances, the horrid noise
and riot of the place, all joined to my own painful reflections,
prevented my taking any rest that night, and to avoid being
disturbed I affected to be asleep. At nine a turnkey came in
to count heads, and having satisfied himself there were six,
locked the door and departed ; the night was very wet, and it
blew a gale ; the panes of glass over the door of the room
being broken, the rain beat in upon my bed which got wet and
uncomfortable. Early in the morning of the sabbath the
door was opened, I rose, dressed, and in order to avoid com-
pany went down into the yard ; I observed that the master's
side and the poor side was only separated by iron bars and a
gate, which opened from one into the other ; I had been
walking but a few minutes when a very respectable man, appa-
rently a farmer, came out on the opposite side, and on coming
close to the bars spoke to me, and from him I learnt that the
difference between the master's side and mine, was, that the
debtors on the master's side were obliged to supply them-
selves ; they had nothing allowed, and previous to going in
were obliged to pay ten shillings to the keeper, which ten shil-
lings were for the rent of a room to themselves, in which there
was a good feather bed and bedding, four chairs, one or two
tables, fire-irons, &c. After the first four weeks half-a-crown
was paid weekly, and except in case of the prison being
crowded with master debtors, which seldom occurred, no two
prisoners were put together unless by their own request ; that
the expence was greater I felt aware, but the comfort of a
private room counter-balanced all the extra cost. I determined
to apply for admission as soon as possible, and here again I
G
90
saw the folly of beginning any thing of which I had not con-
sidered the end. Had I taken a moment's pains to enquire
into the rules of the prison and at once gone to the master's
side,, I might have saved my seven shillings, my bottle of
Hollands,, and my cot geer, all of which were lost to me ;
for as the master debtors were considered superior, so their
search was far less exact. About eight o'clock, when the
gaoler's son came in to serve out the bread, I asked to be re-
moved, the hand extended with a loaf for me was instantly
withdrawn, and another one pushed forward to receive the
ten shillings, which I readily gave, and with a " thank you
sir," the master key came out, and I was in three steps raised
to the supreme degree of a master debtor; as to the rent
there could be no put off, credit here was dead, it was to
come at the appointed time or the threshold must again be
crossed. Among the many debtors on the master's side,
was a prisoner who was not a debtor, he was a venerable old
man, one of the society of friends, who had carried on the
hardware business in a town not very distant, and in the course
of trade had purchased some copper, on which was the broad
arrow ; it was found on his premises, he was sent to Win-
chester, tried, and sentenced to pay a fine, and be confined in
the prison one year. His age, infirmities, and above all, some
gold got him a room on the debtors' side, where I first had the
pleasure of his acquaintance ; his room was* next to mine, and
with the simplicity of his ee thee, and thou," I was really pleased.
The first morning I was asked to breakfast with him, which
I accepted, and his kind attention served in a great measure to
reconcile me to myself and my present situation. During the
many hours of solitude I could enjoy here, I reflected upon
my conduct while in command of the schooner, and although
I could see much carelessness to condemn, and a great
deal of money spent which I might have saved; still that
money was my own, and in my dealings with Mr. , I
could not see one just reason he could have to find fault.
91
After a week or two were gone by I wrote to my wife, who,
in order to soothe the solitude of a prison hastened to me, and
as no female was allowed to sleep within its walls, she passed
the whole of the day with me going out at five in the evening.
Among the master debtors a sort of dinner club was formed,
where any who chose could dine. A good joint of meat was
bought and cooked ; after dinner the expence was calculated,
and each paid his share, which was usually from ninepence to
one shilling. By this means, we lived rather better, and spent
an hour or two together daily ; and even then, within those
chilling walls, there were men of intelligence, and of a very
superior education. I had been there about one month when
a new prisoner, named S , was brought in on our side ;
it was about three in the afternoon when he was let in ; at
that time both the turnkeys were out, and the keeper himself
let him in. As usual, at five, the bell rung to warn all visitors
to quit the prison ; half an hour after the under turnkey, who
had returned, and had not been informed that a new debtor
had arrived, was crossing the yard, observed a person whom
he knew to be a stranger loitering near the gate, hailed him
with " I say master, the bell be ringed this ha've hour, if-
master zees you here now,- 1 shall-get jawed ;" with a presence
of mind not common, the man answered (s well how can I get
out, if there is no one to let me out ; but open the gate, here
is a shilling for you for the delay ;" the gate was opened, and
the man disappeared. At six, muster took place ; the room
in which he ought to have been, was found empty ; a strict
search was made, but not the least clue could be found how
he had left the prison, and got clear of the iron bars. Hours
had passed by, when by some means it came out that the
under turnkey had opened the gate and set the prisoner free.
To describe the rage of the keeper is impossible, for if the
man was not found and again placed within the prison, he
became liable for his debts, however great their amount ; even
if found, it was not legal to take him, and from his short stay
G2
92
no one knew much of him. By the escape of the prisoner,
Mr. W had unexpectedly incurred a debt of above 200,
and the poor fellow as unexpected a release. Mr. W paid
the debt; the turnkey was discharged, and all went on as
usual. Incapable of paying the debts, for which I was a
prisoner, and unwilling to do so even if I had the means, for
they were not mine, I determined to take the benefit of the
insolvent act. Time passed on, the rules of the prison on the
master debtors side were not severe ; nothing was wanting
to any whose pockets were well filled ; to each of those, who
called themselves my creditors, I sent a schedule, giving them
notice that I intended to take the benefit of the act, not having
the means to pay. The time when it was necessary for the
creditors to file a declaration was at hand ; if the declaration
was not filed by a certain day I was free. For a few days
previous to that, I was in the most miserable anxiety ; every
time the bell rung or the gate opened, every noise, however
common, made me shudder. The evening previous to the
day in which I was again to be free (if no declaration came),
was one of intense suffering ; I remained in my room all the
afternoon, retired to bed early, thinking the dreaded paper
would not arrive while I slept. It was a disturbed sleep ; a
little after midnight I awoke ; by the dim light of a rush
candle, I looked at my watch. The time had gone by, no
declaration had been filed, I must be at liberty within twenty-
four hours. About nine in the morning, Mr. , the keeper
called my name, asked me for above three pounds for fees, and
having given him the money, the gate was opened ; I looked
back, saw the bars behind me, and again I breathed the air of
freedom. Every thing seemed strange to me, although my
confinement had been short, only ten weeks, I felt a weight
removed from my spirits not to be expressed.
Next day I had the happiness of seeing my dear mother,
and my little ones. The bankrupt's affairs had been closed,
his docket signed, and he was again carrying on business.
93
The amount of my part of the vessel which had cost 247
only sixteen months before, was now only 64 8s. Od, which
amount had been paid to my mother by my order ; besides
the part of the vessel I had thrown in a claim for wages
during my service in her ; and for that period, the Assignees
agreed to allow me 25 10s. as a full balance of account ;
there was no alternative, that or nothing was the word; I took it.
I had now been so long out of employment that it became
necessary that I should find something to do, I tried all pos-
sible means, went from place to place, but nothing offered ;
some friends advised me to advertise in the papers ; I did so
for a situation as chief mate of a ship, a situation I was little
calculated to fill after having been master of a vessel however
small. I received several letters in answer to my advertise-
ment, but the personal appearance of the master of a large
ship called the Phrenix settled matters ; she was a ship of
nearly eight hundred tons in the transport service; he seemed
well satisfied with me, and I liked him very well ; the ship
had then the Kerry Militia on board, bound to Ireland. Early
in August, 1814, I went on board and was likely to be very
comfortable ; I had a good cabin to myself and took my meals
with the master. All went on very smoothly for about
three weeks, and no doubt would have continued to do so, but
that the master had a son on board, a lad of about sixteen
years of age, who told his father whatever was done in his
absence, and very frequently what was never done or thought
of. Having found him out in telling several falsehoods to his
father, I pulled his ears ; he flew to his father, who ran on
deck, some words ensued, and among other things, I told him
I was above being put under the guardianship of a boy, and
that I would leave the ship immediately ; the master told me
that since I had been with him every thing had gone on ex-
tremely to his satisfaction, that he would be sorry to lose me,
begged I would remain ; but it was of no use, my determi-
nation was fixed, I left him, and was sorry for it afterwards.
94
A fatal spirit of pride, and bad temper, induced me to leave a
ship where I might have been comfortable, and again cast
myself upon the wide world to seek support. I returned
home, all were surprised, but none reproached me, but with a
glance ; I could observe the pain it caused my poor wife, to
see me again out of employ. Again I advertised, save peace
was just then spreading her silver wings ; transports were
useless, and shipping in general unemployed ; no success
attended my second advertisement, my little stock of money
was fast wasting, nothing was likely to replenish my purse ;
my friends advised me to try my fortune in France, as I spoke
the French tongue far better than the English. It was likely
that in that country just as commerce, long dormant, was bud-
ding forth, I might do well ; little consideration was necessary,
the state of my affairs allowed no means of change. I sold
above half my furniture at an immense sacrifice, procured a
passage in a trader called PEsperance, for Honfleur, only three
leagues from Havre de Grace. In her I took my wife and
two children, and at eleven at night, on one Sunday in Octo-
ber, 1814, entered the basin at Honfleur. English vessels had
of late been put under quarantine, we were therefore pre-
vented from landing on our arrival ; my first care was to
enquire who the inspecting doctor was. A person who stood
on the edge of the basin replied that his name was B ,
that he was most probably still up, as he had been that evening
attending some lectures at his lodge. I immediately wrote a
note to him, stating that my wife and children were sea-sick,
and if he would permit us to land, it would be deemed a great
favour ; in about a quarter of an hour the messenger returned
accompanied by the doctor, who having asked some few
questions, observed that a cook was of more use than a doctor,
permitted us to land, and took us himself to a respectable
French Inn, bearing the sign of the white horse (Le cheval
blanc] . The hostess, a fine fat Frenchwoman, with her stiff
starched cap, came out at the surgeon's call, and promised every
95
act of kindness. A roast fowl was placed on the table, and after
a good supper, we all retired to a comfortable bed the chief
luxury of a French tavern. Here we remained two days, until
we got two very comfortable ready furnished rooms at a
drapers, at ten shillings per month. Although my living was
not expensive, nor could it well be so, for just at the peace
provisions in these small outports were very reasonable, still
my money grew short, and I found myself under the necessity
of contracting debts, I had but little hope of discharging.
Of all the places in France to seek employment, Honfleur
was the least likely to prove successful ; at its most flourishing
time it was only a small seaport for fishermen, and now and
then a privateer, but now every thing was at stand still. The
basins were full of vessels, but they were prizes taken from
the English during the war, and lay rotting in tiers and not
one of them was likely ever to fit out again. Nothing seemed
to turn up to favour me, again I advertised in the Havre de
Grace Gazette ; there was only one reply to the advertisement
which was at so low a rate that it could by no means, however
economical, support my family. To a person with a moderate
income Honfleur would have been a delightful little spot ; its
beautiful scenery and healthy situation had to the convalescent
great attractions. The town if such it may be called, is built
at the foot of a hill on which stands the noted Chapelle of
Notre Dame, entirely supported by the vows of seamen made
in the hour of danger.
During my stay at Honfleur I saw one of these vows per-
formed ; it had been made with the consent of his crew by the
master of a brigantine, while in a gale at sea. From a con-
versation I had with the chief mate of her, I found that during
the gale she had been struck by a sea, hove on her beam ends
without any hope of her rising again. In this critical situation
and while the men were clinging to her weather rigging, a
word went from the master to the crew ilf ant fair un veu, all
responded qu'on le fasse. The vow was that if saved they
96
would dedicate to the Chapelle of Notre Dame, the foresail
of the brigantine. The vessel was saved and as religiously
fulfilling a vow is deemed a most important duty, the first
night of her arrival in port was appropriated to the ceremony.
The sail was unbent, the crew dressed in their most decent
apparel assembled at sun-set on the edge of the basin, near
the brigantine, where the sail neatly made up was laying,
shouldered it and by slow degrees carried it up the steep ascent
of the hill, while hundreds of spectators were assembled to
witness the interesting scene. On this occasion the Chapelle is
always illuminated with a vast number of large wax candles.
The sail was laid at the foot of the altar, a number of prayers
were repeated by the Cure, to which all responded, it being a
thanksgiving for the safety of the vessel and her prosperous
return into port ; after which the sail was loosed and every
part of it minutely examined by a sailmaker who attended
for that purpose, and who, according to his examination, con-
scientiously set a price on it. The master of the vessel came
forward, laid the amount on the altar ; the sail was again
made up, prayers said, the men shouldered the sail and all
returned to their ship in good order, and thus ended the
vow. Considering it nothing but superstition I hastened down
the hill.
In case of a vow it is customary for the master and crew
of the vessel to place in the Chapelle, a drawing or model,
representing the vessel in the exact situation she was in when
the vow was made ; in consequence of which the roof of the
Chapelle was nearly all overhung with vessels, some as much
as three feet long, with masts gone and hanging over the side,
while others had their bowsprits and other spars gone and
otherwise damaged. The walls of the Chapelle were also
nearly covered with drawings, representing such disasters as
could not be placed in effigy. Every thing tending to the
safety of the distressed vessels was of course attributed to the
kind interference of the Saint in behalf of the suffering mariners.
97
Wishing my wife and little ones to have a view of the beau-
tiful scenery on the sides of the river Seine, as also to see the
Chapelle of Notre Dame, one afternoon I took them all up the
hill; the Cure was standing at his own door enjoying the
beautiful view, supposing rightly that I was an Englishman,
he took but little notice of me until I addressed him in his
own tongue, to ask some trifling question, just sufficient to
introduce me, in order to have an invitation to view his very
fine gardens. He kindly invited me in, told me a long story
of miracles performed by vows made to his chapel, took us
through his grounds, and from their extent I gathered that
they brought as considerable a revenue to his chapel, as did
the superstition of the seamen ; among the relics he shewed me,
what he called a portion of the true cross ; though nothing
could induce me to believe it, still I did not wish to wound
the feelings of the venerable old man, by expressing a doubt
of what most likely he himself verily believes ; but perceiving
by my countenance that I could only believe to oblige him,
with a French shrug of his shoulders he turned to something
else. After having taken a glass of wine, and a little fruit, we
left him, and returned home. I frequently saw him after there
as well as at Havre, and whenever he met us unavoidably,
stopped to kiss the children.
98
CHAPTER XL
THREE MONTHS' SOJOURN IN FRANCE.
Oh England dear,
Where e're I roam, whatever realms I see,
My heart uutravelled fondly turns to thee.
AN afternoon or two after having visited the Chapelle of
Notre Dame, half business, half pleasure, took me into the
Gaffe Borre, I called for some beer, and while taking it had
a view of the numerous faces which the mirrors round the room
reflected. At one table sat two gentlemen playing piquet, the
one was dressed in the uniform of the navy during the reign of
Napoleon, and the other, who from his age and the deference
paid him by the younger, I took to be his father, was dressed in
an old fashioned, almost quaker cut coat of the middle ranks
of French with his three cornered hat ; each had before him a
cup of coffee.
After I had sat there a few minutes a person who seemed
to be well known to all, entered the Gaffe, and having familiarly
nodded to several of the persons assembled, pulled from the
side pocket of his great coat, a parcel of parchments neatly and
separately folded ; looking at the master of the house who
surrounded by his bottles, &c., was standing in his bar, he
said Monsr. Borre, His Majesty in his goodness has been
pleased to invest you with the order of the Lilly, at the same^
time presenting him with one of the said parchments. This
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said Lilly was an order wdrn mostly by the middle ranks of
life, arid consisted of a white ribbon passed through two but-
ton holes,, to which was suspended a small silver Lilly. This
worn as before stated, was a passport into respectable company ;
some there were who sometimes decorated their button holes
with the Lilly whose claims were doubtful, but like a talisman
it passed current every where. Monsr. Borre took the offered
gift, and casting his eye over the words fidelle citoyen, said,
that will cost me nine livres (seven and six pence,) meaning
that the Lilly would cost that sum. Several others were dis-
tributed, and the man was about to retire when he observed
the two gentlemen before mentioned ; I looked at him and as he
held one more parchment in his hand, I observed that he
looked hard at the junior of the two and betrayed indecision.
However after a few moments thought, he collected courage
and addressing the younger gentleman, said, Monsr. M ,
His Majesty has also invested you with the Lilly. It would
be impossible for any one who had seen his countenance to
forget it when thus addressed, it was the concentration of
moral energy, the index of high and settled resolutions, and
taking from his shoulder his epaulet and the knot which graced
it opposite, threw them both on the pavement and stamping
on them, thus addressed the messenger of honors ; go and
tell Louis what I have done; Je sers Napoleon. His father,
looking at him with delight in his countenance, caught his
hand and said, my son had you acted in a different manner,
I would have disinherited you, I glory in my allegiance to my
Sovereign. The result was that the young man was struck off
the navy list, and himself and father deemed suspected persons,
and only respected by his own family circle.
I might have remained at Honfleur a long time and no pros-
pect of employment, so upon consideration I determined to
remove my family to Havre de Grace, that being (as it were)
the capital of Seine, and of great commerce, I might hope for
something ; I accordingly took a passage in one of the three
100
vessels which then constantly ran between the two ports, and
in which the company were a mixture of all ranks. There
being no distinction, benches were placed right across her
deck, on which the lowest ranks might be seated alongside the
rich. As the vessel passed close under the hill on which the
Chapelle of Notre Dame was situated, the master, who was
steering, taking off his hat said " Allans Messieurs Mes-
dames un pater pour Notre Dame" in an instant all hats were
off, and all lips on the move ; I followed the example and
muttered something in which Notre Dame was in no way
concerned, and a couple of hours landed me on the pier at
Havre. I would gladly have accepted any thing to procure
an honest livelihood for myself and family, and for a moment
hope dawned on my bosom, for as I sat at dinner at the
London Tavern, some person who sat opposite to me called
me by name. The landlord Mr. W , who sat at the head
of the table asked me if I was any way related to Mr. ,
I answered that he was my father, when the landlord informed
me that my father and himself had been fellow apprentices to
the sea, had been friends for years, indeed through life 5 and
added he, after a long conversation, I am not ashamed young
man to own a debt of gratitude I owe to your father ; he is
no more, fain would I serve his son.
Had I, oh, had I just at that moment embraced a friend-
ship which must have been beneficial to me, and made to
him a candid statement of my circumstances, I should, no
doubt, soon have got some employment either ashore or at
sea, for his being postmaster would have enabled him to help
me. I cannot account for it, but a strange infatuation, a pride
I now detest, a desire of appearing even for a short time inde-
pendent, induced me to withhold from him my confidence,
but instead of doing so I repaid his kindness with ingratitude ;
I dwindled from bad to worse, and was at last obliged to leave
France. Worthless of his kind favour, the old gentleman con-
tinued kind to the very moment of my leaving ; I found, but
101
too late, that France was a hopeless place, and made up my
mind to return to England, but as Portsmouth was a naval
port, no hope of a ship for the merchant service there, I sent
my poor distressed family to Portsmouth in the packet, and
myself went to London in a Welch brig, the master who was
before known to me, kindly giving me a passage. Late in
January we left Havre with light winds at S. S. E., and con-
tinued so the whole day, but towards night the wind increased
to a gale and hauled more to the Eastward. The brig was a
dull sailer, and was besides deeply laden, so that to approach
the English Coast was dangerous to a great degree. The
second day it blew so very hard that we were obliged to heave
her to; about the middle of the second night the wind
hauled .so far to the Southward, that the vessel got completely
embayed to the Eastward of Selsey Bill, and the sea so heavy
that it was driving us fast ashore. Fearful she might in the
darkness of the night run on Bognor Rocks, I advised the
master at every risk to carry on canvas and get to the East-
ward of the rocks, and should it be found impossible to keep
her off shore to put her right before the blast, and run her
upon the soft sandy beach a little east of Bognor, where as
the ebb was making she would be safe enough ; providentially
my advice was not required, for the wind shifted to S. W. and
thence to West, and drove us cheerfully on our way. February
7th, we moored the brig in Pickle Herring tier in London river.
At that time a very great traffic was caried on from France
in cattle, corn, poultry fruits, &c., and landed at various sea
ports in England. These Frenchmen who knew no word of
English were glad to meet with any one who by speaking
their own tongue could make and conclude all their bar-
gains ; in this way I met with a very lucrative employment,
for the purchaser aware of what I could do, paid me to
make for him an advantageous bargain; while on the
other hand, the seller paid me to stand on his side, thus
doubly feed, I made a good living of it for sometime. I
102
cannot say that it was just to receive fees on both sides,
but as I write the facts, and do not hide faults, I consider it a
duty to name it here ; but like all my other scenes of pros-
perity, this did not last long, like a shadow it vanished and
left no trace behind. The English farmers fancying that
the French were encroaching on their privileges and giving
the poor of the land the blessings of plenty too soon, pe-
titioned the government to forbid the import of corn and
cattle. Their petition was favourably received, cattle and
corn were prohibited from entering British ports, and a
duty so heavy was laid on fruit and eggs, that bringing them
over would scarcely pay. Several French vessels were found
with prohibited goods, such as silks, lace, &c. ; one I knew
very well, Le Providence, who had adopted a tin topmast, I
mean not that the topmast was meant to carry sail upon, it
was merely pointed on coming out or going into port ; and
at a convenient opportunity it was sent on shore, discharged
of its valuable contents, and again found its way to the vessel ;
but to this also an information laid a stop, the vessel was
seized. I do not mean to argue in favour of smuggling, far
from it, I consider it injurious to the revenue, and I in duty
bound, as a servant of my country, to prevent it ; but I con-
sider that the man who enters a vessel, gets extra wages and
the best of usage, shares in the profits of the voyage, and
then gives an information, is a very wretch and deserves the
severest punishment. I was well acquainted with the master
and owner of a fine sloop of seventy tons, that regularly traded
from Cherbourg to Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight, or South-
ampton ; this man I verily believe would not have allowed
one particle of smuggled goods to enter his vessel, for she
was his all. On one of his trips, laden with poultry, fruit,
eggs, &c., he took two female passengers, and a genteel look-
ing man; one of the ladies appeared to be enceinte, and
extremely stout; being in this way, of course the polite
Frenchman paid her the kindest attention. The wind being
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unfavourable and fresh, and the lady very ill from sea sick-
ness, &c. was reported by her companion to be in a most
critical situation, and earnestly begged that she might be landed
at the Isle of Wight ; her wishes were gratified, and she was
landed. About an hour after landing, the penetrating eye of
an English custom-house officer observed that the lady's shape
approached more to a cask than to her pretended state ; she
was taken to the custom-house at Cowes, and without the aid
of a surgeon or midwife delivered, not reader of an infant,
but of a vast quantity of rich French lace and silk ; it appeared
that this had been for months her employment, going to and
from France. As it was uncertain to what extent the revenue
might have been defrauded, the officers of customs were
anxious to ascertain the vessel she came in, and without any
hesitation she declared the name of the master and vessel. An
order was sent to Portsmouth to seize the vessel ; the poor
man unconscious of the distressing fate that awaited him, was
sitting quietly at his meal when the dreadful mark was put
on his mast, which brought ruin and poverty to himself and
family. The poor man unacquainted with the laws of England
and totally ignorant of its language applied to me ; after some
consideration, I petitioned the collector of the customs in
London, several letters passed, and at last the vessel was given
up, but it had cost him nearly the value of his freight in
expences. Times in England were then at their lowest ebb,
it might be said that to the seamen the wheel of fortune was
completely down, and which ever way it turned, must be for
the best and upwards ; at all parts of the town seamen were
seen begging. Some months passed and no employment, at
last I got intelligence that a Mr. T , a relation of my wife
was about to fit out a large ship, I found him out, and stated
to him my desire to sail with him. He gladly received me
on board as second mate, observing he felt sorry that he had
only a few days before engaged with a young man as chief
104
mate, or I should have been the man. I felt thankful for my
present situation, well humbled by past misfortunes, I cheer-
fully began my duty. The John was not the ship I should
have chosen, had I had any choice ; she had been an old
Danish Indiaman, purchased at a low price, after having been
wrecked on the North coast, fitted out at a little expence as
possible, and if closely examined, would scarcely have been
deemed sea worthy; but there was no alternative, that or
none. The ship was chartered to go to Fiume, in the Gulf of
Venice, for a cargo of timber for government, and return to
England ; the whole number of our crew amounted to nineteen
men and boys, all included, not one too many for a ship of six
hundred tons. Early in August we left England, and had
only been out a few days, when in two days four of our men
were taken ill, and shortly after, it was found that the small
pox, that fatal disorder, had broke out in our little mess;
favoured with a N. W. breeze, we soon got into the Straights,
and to the sick the heat was dreadful. In order to give them
as much air as possible, and prevent the infection from
spreading, we removed the sick into the long boat, spreading
a light awning over them ; two lingered some weeks and died,
the other two aided by a good constitution recovered ; not one
item of their recovery was due to medicine, for they had none ;
we had a medicine chest, but it might just as well have been
on shore, for none of us knew what to do with the contents.
Early in October, the ship anchored in Fiume, a large open
bay, almost in the bottom of which the village or town is
situated, at the foot of a high range of hills which separate
it from Trieste, it is delightful even in October, but winter
after that soon sets in, and it becomes bleak and bitter cold ;
provisions are very reasonable. The market price for our beef
there was less than two pence sterling per pound of twenty
two ounces. Our ballast was thrown out, while we were in
quarantine, but our cargo was got in very slowly, for from
105
the openness of the bay, we were obliged to lay a great way
from shore, and float all the oak timber on fir rafts. Christ-
mas was passed before our cargo was completed.
January 8th, a fine ship called the Lord Cathcart of Hull,
also loaded with timber sailed for England, expecting no doubt
to arrive there long before us ; 10th, early in the morning, we
hove short ; at 10 the master came off, we endeavoured to
trip, but all the purchases we could raise were insufficient,
until a heavy swell setting in started it for us. Night came
on before we got clear of the bay, it was tempestuous with
snow and bitter cold ; the vessel was old and laboured much,
making much water, the master having inconsiderately taken
a heavy deck load which made the ship dangerous to a great
degree ; could it have been accomplished, it would have been
thrown overboard, but with our strength that was not to be
thought of; providentially the weather moderated. 19th the
weather fine and settled, about four miles to leeward we saw
a small low island with a ship on shore on it and the sea beating
over her, and in her we soon recognised our ill fated consort
the Cathcart. However in need of assistance they might have
been, we could render them none, for the sea was running
with such fury on the rocks, that no boat could have approached
the spot. There was a smoke plainly to be seen which gave
us hope that the crew, or at least part of them were safe, and
our own preservation required all our care. The wind fell
light and although we had given the island a wide berth, still
it required every stitch of our canvas to preserve that dis-
tance ; all our ropes being frozen made setting our canvas no
easy task.
Some months afterwards I saw the mate of the Cathcart,
who with four of the men were all that escaped. The tale
they told of their sufferings upon the island was truly heart
rending ; he is still living to relate the fatal affair. On the
llth of March the John anchored in Plymouth, at which port
our cargo was to be landed ; lumpers were hired to discharge
H
106
the ship, and as she required repairs or condemnation, the
crew were paid off and myself among the number. Before I
left Plymouth I had the happiness of hearing that my family
were well. 16th, I left Plymouth in one of the Portsmouth
traders and thence to London on the 19th; just as I was
turning the corner to go into the street in which my family
were residing, I nearly stumbled over my two little ones, each
with their little green bag in hand, containing books ; the little
cherubs knew me and returned home ; in the joys of a happy
return, toils, cares and dangers were forgotten, and I then
flattered myself, but vainly, that they were at an end.
107
CHAPTER XII.
' Tlie dearest spot on earth to me
" Is home, sweet home ;
The fairyland [ long to see,
" Is home, sweet home."
1 There where my vows are truly plighted,
" There where hearts are so united ;
All the world besides I've slighted,
" For home, sweet home."
" BYRON.'
A few days alone were sufficient to convince me that I must
not long remain at home ; I looked round the docks, nothing
was stirring ; if there was any difference it was even worse than
before I left England. In my rambles I saw men who had
been to my knowledge masters and chief mates of vessels, who
would now gladly have gone before the mast ; to paint the
distress that pervaded every part of the merchant service is
beyond my power. The immense number of men discharged
from ships of war who had foolishly spent their money and
had now got into deep distress strolling about the streets, some
begging, others worse, was truly painful to those who possessed
any feeling. One man I can never forget, a fine stout athletic
man of a very seamanlike appearance was not begging, for the
H2
108
law forbade it, he was singing with a fine open manly voice
expressive of feeling, the burthen of his song was
Then oh protect the hardy tar,
Be mindful of his merit,
And when again you're plunged in war,
He'll show his daring spirit.
when the song was ended the poor creature collected a few
half-pence from the crowd that had gathered to listen to him ;
it was a subsistence, but it was a wretched one, and such as
had I even been calculated for it, could never have adopted.
My pay from the John was of no great amount, time passed
and it melted away, I found it high time to do something. In
the latter end of April I observed bills posted up for seamen
and petty officers for His Majesty's Ship R , of eighty
guns; for a moment and only for a moment the bills took my
attention, but when I looked round on my real situation,
scanned the future, my thoughts seemed to return to those
bills. There certainly was in that moment some divine inter-
position, for from that day to this, and it is a long period, I
have never looked back with regret. Of all the places then
dreaded by seamen in the merchant service, a ship of war
is the most. I fully had my share of the prejudice, but there
was no alternative ; I mentioned to my family my idea of
seeking in a ship of war, that support I could meet with
no where else. Painful indeed was the parting from my home.
May the 6th, 1820, early in the morning, I passed by the
R , then fitting out, and for the first time in my life saw
the monstrous fabric that was to be my residence for several
years, with a shudder of grief I cannot describe ; I went
on shore to a public-house, took breakfast, and after it wrote
a letter to the Commanding Officer, now a Post Captain, and
without any error stated my present and passed situation. I
did not boast of my abilities, either as a seaman or in any
other way, but stated exactly what I could do, and concluded
109
my letter by saying that I wished to devote my future life to
my country, humbly offering him my services; my letter
ended, I hired a boat, went alongside the ship, and having
stated that I had a letter for the Commanding Officer, was
soon admitted.
I had but little time to wait, for before I had time to look
round Lieut. S came up the after hatchway, and walked
straight to me; at one glance I perceived that there was
nothing in his appearance calculated to inspire confidence, his
manner was distant and repelling ; as he approached me, I
touched my hat, when he said, " are you the young man who
has a letter for me ?" Yes sir, said I, and presented my letter ;
he opened and read it with the greatest attention, seemed to
pause over the several parts as if making up his mind upon
some subject, while I remained in miserable anxiety; when
ended, he made me pronounce my name twice, folded the
letter up carefully, and having put it into his waistcoat pocket,
retired a few paces as if to have a full view of me.
Never, oh never while I breathe shall I forget the scruti-
nizing look he gave me, it seemed to search my very soul, and
speak volumes ; but I stood unawed ; like the gamester, it was
my last cast, on that game depended my all, perhaps my life.
Satisfied with his penetration, Lieutenant S asked me a
great many questions about seamanship, was satisfied with
the answers I gave, and received and victualled me. I com-
menced duty as a first class petty officer in His Majesty's
navy. Reader, thus begins my naval career. Unacquainted
as I was with the routine of duty I was appointed to perform,
with the rules I had to observe, I determined as far as it was
possible to fulfil my duty, and by a strict attention prove to
the officer who had been my friend, that I was not unworthy
of his kind favour, and during the whole time I served under
Lieutenant S not one fault was found with any part of
my conduct ; that I merited it I must in justice acknowledge,
but if a man did his best Mr. S was satisfied.
110
The R was not a comfortable ship, but a constant suc-
cession of duty, and a certain degree of confidence reposed in
me by my commanding officer made time pass away better
by far than I expected. Lieutenant S was a thorough
bred tar of the old school, a strict disciplinarian who carried
the duty ori himself, and if at any time he trusted the charge
of the ship to any one, it was to a person in whom his con-
fidence was not misplaced ; in a ship with nearly seven hundred
men, some of which were the very worst characters, a strict
observance of orders was necessary, but although those orders
were numerous and strictly enforced, still as none interfered
with each other, any man might obey without very much
danger. In order to make those of my readers who have
never been in a ship of war a little acquainted with one, I will
describe one week's duty as it went on, on board the R ,
then the smartest ship in commission, and I believe bore the
sway until 1 830, when the A , 84, eclipsed her ; but to begin
my week's routine ; on Sunday morning a few minutes before
four o'clock, the boatswain and his mates are called, and
standing at one of the hatchways, as the bell strikes eight
(four o'clock), the officer who has had the middle watch, calls
out (e turn the hands up ;" the boatswain in reply gives one
twit, twit, with his call, his mates do the same in succession,
one long whistle succeeds, and the boatswain roars out " all
hands holystone decks," which is re-echoed by his mates. In a
moment, in the twinkling of an eye, all hands start out of their
hammocks, and half clothed rush up the hatchways ; however
deep their sleep may be, however pleasing their dreams, that
pipe awakes all. Before the general routine of the service
was regulated as it is now, the boatswain and his mates
were allowed to carry three sisters, (three canes laid up like
a piece of rope) with which they lashed indiscriminately as the
men ran up, and woe to him who was last ; as soon as the
lower deck was cleared, centinels were placed at each of the
hatchways to prevent any one from going down ; the wash
1)1
deck pumps were rigged, decks wet all over, and thickly
strewed with sand ; about two thirds of the men drop on their
knees, and with a holystone rub away at the decks, while the
other third supply a fresh layer of sand, and sprinkle water
when required ; a mate or midshipman of the watch stands in
front of the rank of men to prevent them from moving forward
before every portion of the deck has been completely rubbed
over. After the stones have been used for about one hour,
scrub brooms are used at all parts, and a complete wash
down with a great many buckets of water ; it is then dried up
with swabs, by which time it is nearly five bells, (half past
six) ; all hands are then allowed below to lash their hammocks
up, seven turns are the usual numbers hitched round the
hammock, the clews neatly made up, and the ends of lan-
yards and lashings left out, that the officer at each netting
may see that the necessary pointing has not been neglected.
As the bell strikes five, the boatswain's pipe with those
of his mates again thrill the nerves. ({ Up all hammocks/ 5 is
the cry at each hatchway ; instantly the hatchways are crowde d,
each eager to escape the disgrace of being last, and its con-
sequent punishment.
As the men are coming up, the first Lieutenant is patroling
from gangway to gangway, his eye cast on all parts, observing
any one whose hammock does not show the needful number
of turns, or is in any other way deficient, and woe to the luck-
less wight on whom his eye settles ; his name usually appears
on the black list the next day. About six bells, (seven o'clock,)
the hammocks are all stowed. The next whistle is "clean arms."
Those men at the guns, who are boarders or pikemen, or small
arm men, clean their arms, and for a quarter of an hour brick-
dust and oil succeeds the holystones and sand. At a quarter
past seven, the sentinel who has charge of the glass, comes up
the after hatchway, reports to the mate of the watch the time
to pipe to breakfast ; the mate in his turn walks across to the
first Lieutenant, and with a quarter-deck bow repeats, " the
112
quarter, sir ;" the officer with an acknowledging nod, which
says as well as nod can say, I hear you, calls out to the
boatswain, " Mr. - -, pipe to breakfast/' again the gentle
twit, twit, begins ; at the well-known sound the cook of each
mess hurries down the hatchway to run up again to the coppers
to get his due proportion of cocoa for the number of men in his
mess ; half an hour is allowed for breakfast, the other quarter
is usually employed in preparing to send up top-gallant yards.
A few minutes before eight " clear lower deck" is the signal
for all the men to repair to their stations ; some of the topmen
who have to go aloft seeing a good opportunity of doubling on
the first Lieutenant, slyly creep up and stow themselves away
in the top, while the less fortunate have to run aloft as the
yard goes up, and before they reach the crosstrees, are nearly
exhausted for want of breath.
" Hands up top-gallant and royal yards" resounds from all
parts of the ship ; without any further order the yardropes are
manned, and all anxiously wait the word " sway out the
chains, (< topmen aloft sway away ;" at that word it seems as
if the man and the yard were running a race, Jack keeping
his eye on the yard as it goes up, anxiously looking out for
any favourable check the yard may meet on its way up to
ease his over exertion. The moment the yard is rigged, the
officer of the top looking over the top-rim calls out loudly,
" all ready," the fore, main, or mizen, as it may be ; the Master
or second Master attending the chronometer, comes up, walks
to the first Lieutenant, " eight o'clock, sir," who just putting
his hand to his cap calls out " strike the bell," ee cross away ;"
for a few moments the noise of the drums and band is deaf-
iiing. When this confusion is over, the next order is te watch
below, clean lower deck," c( watch on deck, square yards " and
now the second part of the morning rubbing commences, the
holystones are again in requisition, the tables, shelves, and
deck undergoes a complete cleaning ; brass-work, iron-work
about the mess, and other parts of the deck are well cleaned.
113
" Clear for divisions" is the next duty, after which the bags
are stowed, the men sent up on deck. I do not know any
thing that could please a person, who had never before seen
such a place, so much as a ship of war's lower deck, particu-
larly a line of battle ship ; the guns with all their tackling in
good order, locks bright, mess shelves neatly arranged with
crockery and tin ware, chain cables, &c., all tend to inspire
the stranger with a high opinion of the navy of our country.
On Sunday the time for divisions is usually ten o'clock,
when the drum beats, at which time every man appears clean
at his division, of which there are five, consisting of one part
of each watch ; the first and third are the starboard watch,
second and fourth are the larboard, and the fifth consists of
the idlers, such men as keep no night watch, carpenters,
coopers, sailmakers, cooks, and cook's mates, &c. The clothing
of each man must be particularly clean, not a speck to be
visible ; of late years cropped hair has superseded long tails,
and blacking and brushes have found their way into the navy.
After the divisions have been mustered, and inspected by their
respective Lieutenants, all in turn according to his rank, report
to the Captain " all present sir", at the first, second, third, and
fourth division, as may be ; the Captain or Lieutenant of
marines next reports. When the Captain making his quarter-
deck bow, which seems to say I am ready, prepares to per-
form his evolution, looking steadfastly at every man as he goes
round ; arid should at that moment any poor creature, from
what ever cause it may be, be found not perfectly clean or
not dressed exactly in the uniform, ordered by the ship ; how
he shrinks from the sharp gaze of the Captain, happy if he
is passed by.
I have known many instances of Captains and Commanding
Officers seeing some slight errors either in clothing or in
duty, and knowing the man to be at other times careful, pass it
by without saying any thing, which had they been taken notice
of would have subjected him to punishment, which, however
114
slight, would have wounded his feelings and in many instances
rendered him careless of his duty, and even of himself after-
wards. Every part of the deck, as well as the men, undergo a
strict examination, the hold even does not escape this scrutiny,
for from the frequent visits of the Commanding Officer, and the
weekly rounds of the Captain, no dirt can accumulate in any
part of the ship, all must be clean and consequently healthy.
Of Lieut. S it might be said that nothing escaped his
notice, he was at all parts at all hours, and it was a saying
among the seamen, " if you want to find Mr. S stand still
he will pass by you within a few minutes." As soon as this
examination is over and the Captain re-appears upon deck,
the drum beats the retreat, carpenters and quartermasters
are called to rig the church. If the weather is fine the awnings
are spread and the service takes place on the quarter deck,
stools are brought up from below for the men to sit on, while
chairs are placed for the Captain and Officers; flags are
neatly disposed round the capstan and in the ports to prevent
draft as well as to adorn the place of worship. All prepared,
the bell tolls just as on shore, the church pendant is hoisted
at the gaff end to announce to all other ships that divine service
is going on, and no boats are to board during that time. The
tolling is to warn all hands to repair to church, where, when
all are seated and quiet, the first Lieutenant reports to the
Captain, who soon comes up. If there is a clergyman in the
ship he performs the service, but if not, the Captain usually
goes through it. During the service all is quiet, but when
ended all is bustle and confusion, for a few minutes ; the
whistle again goes, down all stools, up spirits; spirits are got up
of which each man is allowed one gill per day ; up to June
1824, it was half a pint, when up, the proper portion is pumped
off into a small cask, the rest goes down again ; if at sea, at
seven bells, (half past eleven), all the officers are up taking
meridian altitude, and the Master having ascertained by the
sun that it is twelve o'clock, goes to the Captain or first Lieut-
115
enant and with his best bow (e twelve o'clock sir ;" the Captain
in his turn reports to the Admiral, if a flag ship, and the
moment he re-appears the words " strike the bell eight, pipe to
dinner " in one moment all hands are at work ; one bell (half-
past twelve) is the seaman^s favourite bell, for it is then that
grog is piped ; the cook of each mess repairs to the grog tub,
where he receives one half-pint of the mixture for each man in
his mess, yet although he gets a half-pint a man, it by no means
follows that Jack gets that. There is to every mess a small
measure much less than the right one, one of these small
measures goes to each man, and the rest, which in some messes
is nearly half the full quantum, is called (plush) overplus, and
on this the two cooks of each mess sit and enjoy themselves
until sometimes those who in the morning were sworn friends
end the day in fighting. Now as cooking, as it is called, goes
round, every man in the mess has his turn, and his chance to
get drunk and to get into a hobble ; but there are some, though
few, who do not take a cooking day, and always find a ready
substitute to act in their place, and although a cook has much
to do, being answerable for the time being, that every thing is
clean and in order, yet many consider it a holiday. It was
such a holiday as I never took, many men who might have
been years in a ship, in comfort and respected, on that one day
blast perhaps their comfort and character, and while in the
gratification of the moment, commit deeds, at which in their
sober moments they would have shuddered. It was a positive
order in the R , that the tin ware should be kept perfectly
bright, or it was not to be kept in the mess. The mess to
which I belonged had one dozen and a half tin pots ; one of my
messmates a knowing sort of an Irishman, determined that our
mess should outshine all others, got some mercurial ointment
and having rubbed it over the tin, gave it all the beautiful gloss
of polished silver ; the officer of the deck on looking round the
messes, previous to inspection by the first Lieutenant, saw the
brilliancy of our pots, and went and found fault with all the
116
rest, telling them the fortieth mess outdid them all; no one
could form an idea by what means this gloss had been
obtained ; these very pots were used every morning for break-
fast, and in about a week every one in the mess complained of
sore gums, and loose teeth, and upon all the effects were
visible, on some it almost produced salivation ; it is needless to
add the mercury caused it. But to resume ; dinner ended, deck
swept up, no other duty is begun ; nothing stirs till after four
o'clock in the afternoon ; the seamen walk about, or lay on
the decks, some telling tales, some platting grass to make hats,
some few read or write ; it was then as difficult to find a
seaman who could read or write, as it is now to find one
under thirty who cannot do either. A few minutes after four,
the confusion again begins, " in lower deck guns, out yard
ropes, reeve gantlines, and closelines", ready for scrubbing
hammocks in the morning. At five, pipe to supper ; again the
grog is piped, and Jack and his mate enjoy themselves over
their plush ; but it not unfrequently happens that in the very
middle of their enjoyment, the drum beats to quarters, where
every man at his gun, and in his proper number, when mus-
tered answers his number and duty. The guns are examined,
to see all their tackling is secure, and in good order ; the men
are also examined to see that they are perfectly sober. To a
person not acquainted with the navy, it would almost appear
incredible, the various schemes the drunkard makes use of to
obtain an extra quantity of grog ; no trouble is too great, no
power to resist temptation ; men who would shrink from a
dishonest action, and who might be trusted with sums of
money, will steal a bottle of rum.
I well recollect a circumstance that occurred some years
ago in a discovery ship I was in, which I hope may amuse the
reader, it is one among many that have passed under my eye.
A man name P , officiated as barber for the seamen,
and hair dresser to the officers, and among them the Purser,
and who besides was an incorrigible drunkard. Having that
117
morning cut the Purser's hair, without as he said having seen
his bottle, went to him a little before seven bells one forenoon
and said " Mr. M , will you let your steward give me a
bottle of vinegar for I am very fond of it ?" The Purser felt
surprised at such a request, expecting it would be rum in lieu,
but freely consented, and walked down the after ladder into
the gun-room. Just afterwards the spirits for dinner were got
up, and P , watching the steward said, "N , the
Purser told me to come to you for a bottle of rum," ef I will not
give it you," said N , " oh, very well," said P , " I will
go to Mr. M . Mr. M was sitting at the gun-room
table, the gun room sky -light was but little abaft the place
where the spirits were got up ; P called down the sky-light,
" Mr. M , N says he wont give it to me" (without
naming the article he wanted,) the Purser supposing it to be
vinegar, sung out lustily, ee why the d 1 dont you give it to
him N , is my order of no use ?" the poor steward seeing
his master very angry gave the man the bottle of rum. Within
one hour of his getting the rum, P was in a horrid state
of intoxication, rolling about the decks ; as his grog had been
stopped, enquiries were made how he got drunk ; for sometime
no clue could be found, at last some one said that the Purser's
steward had given him the spirits. An immediate order was
given for the steward to appear on the quarter deck, and when
there to state why he had given spirits away, knowing it to
be against orders; the poor fellow alarmed to the highest
degree, fearful of involving the Purser in a scrape, took some
time to consider what to say, at last pressed for an answer,
said that Mr. , the Purser had given the order for the man
to have the spirits ; the Purser sent for, denied ever having
given such an order ; the poor steward was ordered in irons,
but the Captain coming up, investigated the affair, and with
his penetrating eye soon came to the truth. The steward was
released, and the affair ended in a laugh.
Another time I recollect the Captain of the R coming
118
on board in his gig, about eight at night ; on coming up the
side he sent for the master at arms, and on his appearance
told him that he had seen one of the boat's crew hide some
bladders of spirits in a bag under the head sheets, and desired
the master at arms to go and make the seizure ; in the mean time
one of the men, who was the owner of the spirits, went up into
the main-top and sent a fishing line down with a strong hook ;
one of those in the boat just then hooked the bag on, and at
the moment the master at arms was stretching out his hand
to clasp his prize, the man aloft pulled up, the bag vanished
from his view, leaving him in the greatest astonishment at
the manner in which his prize had disappeared. Alarmed at
his failure, the master at arms went on deck and reported to
the officer the whole affair, saying the rum had been spirited
away, he knew not how. I could relate many more instances,
but one more will be sufficient to shew the reader the many
schemes practised by seamen to obtain spirits Some years
ago, while taking in four months' provisions, among the casks
were some small barrels of spirits sent on board for the con-
venience of stowage, as the main-deck was well filled with
casks ; in order to make a passage, some of the small ones
were rolled upon the fore gratings. Some mischievous fellow
got a hint of it, went to the cooper, borrowed his centre-bit,
and, assisted by others, bored a hole into the bottom of the
cask through the grating, one of the others holding a bucket
under, thus bucket after bucket disappeared ; tow r ards even-
ing half the ship's company were drunk, and a quantity
of rum at all parts of the lower-deck ; no one could tell whence
it came, but the next day when the casks were struck down,
this one was found empty. Several men were charged with the
crime, but as they kept their own counsel, there was no proof
against them ; they were not punished, for our commanding
officer never punished without the most satisfactory proof,
so that they escaped; and thus the Purser lost fifteen- gallons
of rum.
119
At eight at night, the boatswain and his mates piped down,
and within a very few minutes every man is in his hammock.
In most ships chatting is allowed, or at least not noticed till
one bell,, (half-past eight) but when the jawing bell is over,
nothing is heard or seen through the night, save the half
hourly visits of the master at arms, and the regular "alTs
well," of the centinel as he walks his lonely post ; and thus
ends the sabbath -in a ship of war, and closes my chapter.
120
CHAPTER XIII
ONE WEEK IN A SMART SHIP DESCRIBED.
MONDAY morning four o'clock; again the shrill whistle re-
sounds to awaken the sleepers and cut short their dreams ;
hands scrub hammocks and wash cloths. A certain portion
of fresh water is served out to each man, as the vessel can
afford it, but the most I ever knew served out is half a gallon
per man, and that is deemed sufficient. From the time of
beginning to wash to the time of leaving off, is one hour and a
half, at which time every man must have finished, and although
to a landsman, who has never sailed for education, the time
seems short, still to the more experienced seaman, it is full
sufficient for all the purposes he has to accomplish. As soon as
the cloths are hung up, the decks washed down, hammocks
piped up, and the same routine goes on as on Sunday, except
that divisions are earlier. After the muster is ended the drum
beats to quarters, one division, of which there are usually five,
goes to great gun exercise until six bells (eleven o'clock) ;
another division to cutlass or musket, the rest of the ship's
company are employed as may be required, at making rope,
&c., or if the ship is all complete they walk or sleep, or spin
tough yarns as may please them. After dinner another portion
of the crew go to drill at cutlass or musket, and that ends the
drills for the day ; one day may be taken as a type of years.
Tuesday in most well regulated ships is appropriated to boat
exercise ; every boat equipt in fighting order, the larger ones
121
such as launches, barges, and pinnaces, with their guns and
carronades, while the smaller ones are armed with muskets,
cutlasses, and pistols ; and when there are many ships, each
sending from seven to nine boats, with the flag ship's launch
as commodore, they certainly form a pretty musquito fleet ;
so at least I fancied some years since, while steering the launch
of the beautiful A , in the Tagus, and leading the van
of a numerous squadron, I fancied myself a personage of some
importance. *
Wednesday is for sail exercise, at least so it was in the
A , and she was allowed by all who were competent judges,
to be the best regulated ship in commission since the peace.
The whole of the forenoon is spent in reefing, furling, and
shifting the whole suit of sails, and perhaps the topsail yards
may be sent down and up again once or twice. Thursday,
making and mending clothes occupies the whole day, when Jack
has a fair opportunity of repairing damages in his kitt, and
preparing for any future examination ; also of examining his
ditty bag, and having a view of all the little presents he had
from his friends or sweetheart ere he left home, and reading
over the love letters of Poll and Sue. Friday, is general quar-
ters, when every gun in the ship is manned and exercised ;
sometimes fired with shot at a target, at others with blank
cartridge, for which a fair proportion of powder is allowed
half-yearly. Saturday, is a general cleaning day below, white-
washing the holds, cockpits, &c., and whatever slight repairs
the rigging may require is done on that day ; evening comes,
" sling clean hammocks/' and thus ends the week, which in a
ship of war may be taken as a sample of three or, more years ;
a certain sameness pervades the whole, little or no diversity,
except when the ship removes from one part to the other.
Strict discipline among such a large body of men, where the
very extremes of good and evil may be found, is very necessary ;
and though it is at times carried to undue lengths, still for
my part, I never in any one instance had cause of complaint.
i
122
Sobriety and a desire to fulfil the duties imposed on me car-
ried me through with comfort, and I look back with a degree
of pleasure to the day on which I first stood on a ship of
war's books.
In the middle of July, 1820, the R anchored at Spit-
head ; August 10th, two months' advance was paid, and the
next day the blue at the fore waved over our head ; 13th sailed
for Gibraltar and thence to Malta ; after a very fine passage
the anchor was let go in the Bay of Gibraltar, but the fever
raging there, the Admiral ordered the quarantine flag to be
hoisted at the mast-head, so that no communication could take
place with the shore ; our stay was short. Our progress up
the Straights was slow, for we had frequent calms ; it was not
until the 14th September that the anchor was let go in the
grand harbour of La Valletta. On the 20th, forty-eight
hours leave was given to a quarter watch, or nearly one-fourth
of the ship's company. My name having been inserted in
the liberty list, I gladly availed myself of it to take a ramble
over an island I had never before seen, although I had heard
so much of it ; Malta a few years back only a dirty barren
rock, by the benefit of English commerce and English govern-
ment, is become England in miniature. By a wise decree of
the supreme court passed in 1816, no vessel of a certain ton-
nage coming from Sicily is allowed to enter inwards without
bringing a certain proportion of earth as a part of her cargo or
ballast. In consequence of this order, what a few years ago was
a barren rock, is now a flourishing garden, where vegetables,
fruits, &c. grow in such abundance, as to repay the expences
incurred in raising the soil ; a walk in the country at any time
except in August and September, (when the heat is trouble-
some) is delightful. While I was on shore I visited the church
of St. John, which is supposed to be or at least was then, one of
the richest, and possessed of more relics than any other in the
island. As I entered the church a Maltese presented himself,
asking if I wanted to see the church, and offering to shew me
123
round the place ; although I did not like the appearance of
the man, I was obliged to accept his offer for want of a better,
and began by going to the underground parts of the building,
and had proceeded but a short distance when I met one of
the monks, a fine sleek fat looking middle aged man, whose
appearance might certainly denote praying, but not a vestige
of fasting ; I touched my hat to him, and said " good morning
sir," in Italian ; he very politely returned my salutation, ob-
serving, ee ah, you speak Italian ;" conversation began, and in a
few minutes we were as old acquaintance. My former conduc-
tor was superseded and having given him an eightpenny piece,
I commenced my visit with my new acquaintance, and is it
not so through the whole of our life, the most shining bauble
carries the day. Had any person of an inferior rank to my first
conductor presented himself to me, however well he might
have addressed me, however great his abilities, I much question
whether he would have had my company ; it certainly is a
serious thing to reflect upon the effect of rank, it gives a child,
newly born, a degree of consideration and respect, which half
a century of labour and virtue cannot attain ; but to go on,
the friendly monk led me through all the parts of the beautiful
consecrated pile, explained to me its riches, silver gates, &c.,
and would no doubt have succeeded in inspiring me with a
great opinion of the Church of St. John, had he not pointed
to St. John's head in a charger, in a glass case inside of the
railings which he affirmed was the very head which had been
taken from the shoulders of St. John. Whether the monk,
from my being a seaman, thought that I would believe any-
thing he told me, or whether he wished to try how far my
credulity would go, I know not, but looking very hard at him,
I said te ah my friend, you must tell that to the marines for
sailors cannot believe it." He partly understood what I said
for he led me up, and thence into the refectory where a num-
ber of monks like himself, fat, and in good order, were sitting
round a table. I was requested to set down, and for an hour
i2
124
enjoyed myself well ; wine, fruit, and cakes, were given me,
and I left them thankful for their kindness. I have frequently
visited the church since, and ever been treated with kindness
and respect ; in the evening I returned to the ship.
Sometime afterwards I was again on shore; to visit the
shore frequently was highly injurious to my pocket, but as it
was the time when the trial of Delano, the master of the
pirate vessel William, and his crew, was to take place in the
Admiralty Court of the island, I was glad of an opportunity
of witnessing a scene which would be at once awful and im-
posing. Happily the keeper of the court was a brother mason,
and of course a friend, and by his means I not only got ad-
mission, but such a situation as would enable me to hear
all the proceedings of the court, as well as see the countenan-
ces of the criminals. Delano, the captain of the pirate, was
ghastly pale, an apparent consciousness of the awful situation
in which he stood, seemed to pervade his whole frame ; his
look bespoke fear but not repentance, and thus it seemed with
one or two others. His chief mate, I think his name was
Thompson, stared wildly round him as if unconscious and un-
heeding passing events ; but the cook who I understood was
a pensioner from the navy, was, without exception, the most
hardened creature I had ever seen ; not a shadow of dread
seemed to cross his countenance. It came out upon the trial,
that he stood over the carpenter with a loaded pistol while he
bored the holes in the Helenas bottom, and vowed that if he
in any way delayed or neglected his orders, that moment
should be his last.
The evidence against the prisoners was conclusive, each
endeavouring to criminate the other, and all to place the guilt
upon the captain ; not a shadow of doubt could remain on the
minds of the jury. It was the second time Delano had stood
at the bar of justice, charged with a crime at which the very
soul of civilized man ought to revolt ; and when the jury after
a short deliberation returned a verdict of guilty, for a moment
125
all was silent. In this great multitude, not a murmur was to
be heard, expectation held its breath ; awful to those criminals
who could feel must have been that moment ; at length the
judge Wright, Esq. rose up, and in a speech which
though the words may be forgotten, the manner never can,
addressed the prisoners at the bar, and holding before them
the dreadful enormity of their offence, bade them consider
their lives forfeited to the broken laws of their country. They
ought now to devote the short period allowed them in preparing
for that awful change they had to undergo ; and then addressing
the cook, who was gazing around him unconscious of passing
events, the judge thus spoke, " and to you prisoner at the bar
who in the moment that you were assuring the sufferers of
safety and lulling them into fatal security, had fully planned
their destruction," I will' not aggravate the sufferings which
must at this moment rend your very heart, by calling you
by name, but as a last hope, none on earth remains. Let
me implore you to seek at the foot of the cross of a cru-
*cified redeemer, that forgiveness man has not in his power to
extend to you. It now remains with me to pass the awful
sentence of the law which is that " all and each of you return
to the prison at Fort St. Elmo, and from thence to the vessel
called the William, and at the yard-arms hang till you are
dead ; there hung in gibbets at such a place as shall be most
exposed to public view, and may God have mercy on your
souls." The carpenter by whose means the unfortunate
crew of the Helen had been saved, he first acquitted, and then
advised him to be very careful as to what vessels he entered
for the future : the prisoners were then removed from the bar
and taken to the prison named in their sentence. Only four
days after the William was hauled out into the grand harbour
of La Valletta ; gangways were erected on both sides, from
the quarter-deck to that part, just under the fore yard, at
which place a platform of the proper dimensions was built to
allow three prisoners to stand at their ease. Every part of
126
the vessel was painted black, except on each bow where
William was marked in large white letters ; every thing about
her indicated mourning, emblems of the fatal tragedy about
to be acted on board.
On the appointed morning the signal for all boats to attend
punishment, flew at the flag ship's mast head, nothing was
talked of but the approaching execution ; troops under arms
lined the bay as far as they could be placed. The unfortunate
William was surrounded by the boats of the squadron. At 9,
the prisoners were brought off under the charge of the pro-
vost marshal, surrounded by armed boats. The master and
the cook seemed perfectly indifferent to the awful solemnity
of the scene. Delano, who had to all appearance been a very
good looking young man, was now haggard and grief-worn,
his eye resting with a vacant stare on all around ; their arms
pinioned tightly behind them, allowed them no power of
assisting themselves in ascending the vessel's side, which had
been made easy expressly on purpose. It was found needful
to support all in going up, and two of them required support
to the last moment. The mate and the cook walked along the
gangway with a firm step. However slight the slip either had
made, whatever alteration of countenance had taken place, I
must have seen, for I was so placed that nothing could escape
me ; all were attended by a clergyman, who was either reading
or praying all the time. A carronade on each side had been
placed as near as possible under the platform on which the
prisoners stood ; a trigger-line from both locks was made to
end in one, so that one pull might set both guns off, and the
explosion take place at the same time. Three ropes were rove
on each side of the fore yard, and the noose well overhauled so
as to hang just clear of the prisoners; it took the provost marshal
sometime before he could place all the ropes to his satisfaction
round their necks, a part of the business he seemed particu-
larly careful in performing.
The whips were led along the decks of the William, and
127
manned by a certain party of men picked from each ship,
each of whom seemed conscious, and grieved at the painful
duty he had to execute ; it was nearly 10, A. M. before all
was ready. Just as the clocks of the different public buildings
struck ten, and the ships' bells four, all was hushed in a
moment ; I believe if I may judge from myself, every heart
beat heavily, the guns went off, and so sudden and exact was
the explosion, that it seemed as if one gun alone had exploded,
and but for the two volumes of white smoke seen rising per-
pendicularly from the different muzzles, many persons would
have said that only one gun had gone off; but as the smoke
cleared away, the bodies of the unfortunate men were seen
dangling in the air, and their spirits already winging their
way to the awful bar of an offended God. Some events^occur
during the life of man which it is impossible to forget, and
surely this is one of these painful moments, shewing the
depravity of the mind of man when left to take its course
without a check. Delano was said to be a member of a
highly respectable family ; an amiable wife, and a widowed
parent were left to bemoan his fate, and end their lives in
grief, and shame. Dreadful must have been their feelings
when the fatal intelligence reached Liverpool ; the late pirate
had for several years traded to Malta, was not only well known,
but highly respected ; his credit so good that when after the
plunder of the Helen, he sold 2000 scudi worth of her
plunder, he was not even requested to show the cockets, or
other necessary papers.
The first thing which caused a suspicion to rest on the
William, was that while both vessels were laying bow to
bow, the crew of the Helen secured in her forecastle, and the
booby hatch barred down, in which there was a very small
scuttle, not more than five inches square, which being open,
the William having both topsails on the cap, and through
this small scuttle, the crew of the Helen could see on the
starboard clew of the fore-topsail, " Gwillam, sail maker, Liver*
128
pool," and also that in her top-sail there was a band from leech
to leech below the belly band, a thing not common ; to these
two circumstances may chiefly be attributed the capture of
the William. As the two vessels belonged to the same port,
little suspicion would otherwise have been entertained.
Late in October, the Raven, Mr. F commanding,, came
from Naples, with intelligence that a revolution had taken
place in Naples, where the son was endeavouring to dethrone
his father. Immediate preparations were made for sea.
November 1st, the R 80, R 46, and two or three
smaller vessels, besides tenders, were on their way to Naples,
where the anchor was let go on the 7th ; although it was a bad
time of year, and Naples Bay from the very heavy swell that sets
into it, very unsafe, the ships were ordered to remain at an
anchor in the bay ; here we found also several foreign ships,
French, Austrian, and Spanish, each ready to protect the pro-
perty, and persons of their respective merchants. Mount
Vesuvius situated on the opposite side of the bay to the city
of Naples, was then burning with awful fury, and the frequent
eruptions which now took place, made it dangerous for those
living around its base to remain there. In November, the
greatest eruption that had occurred for above forty years, took
place, the strength of it was in the dead hour of the night ;
to describe the awful grandeur of the scene, is impossible, it
is almost beyond the bounds of fancy ; at intervals the bay was
completely illuminated, and the shipping, the city, and its
environs reflected of a ghastly hue ; stones of a terrible weight
were hurled out of the crater to an immense distance. I saw
one some days after, which was sent as a present to Captain
, it had been picked up in the very centre of the city,
not less than twelve miles distant, was of a very hard blue
kind of stone, and weighed rather above twenty-six pounds.
For several days slight eruptions took place, and for two days the
bay was as it were covered with a dense fog, from a thick shower
of light grey ashes, which settling on the decks, and rigging,
129
obliged us to beat the rigging, and the sails every four hours,
when several bushels were swept off the decks ; quantities were
taken up as specimens. About ten days after the eruption,
the Admiral's steward, and the chief mate of a ship called the
Frances Freeling were going up the hill, and from my speaking
Italian offered to bear any expense if I would 'go with them.
I gladly accepted the oifer that gave me a chance of seeing a
place so calculated to gratify curiosity ; to see the sun rise on
the top of Vesuvius, is one of the first objects in going there,
consequently at 6, P. M. we landed at the foot, and as near the
road as possible, among all the beautiful palaces, and country
seats of the nobility and gentry of Naples. It was so soon
after the eruption, that it was found very difficult to obtain
guides ; mules they would freely let us have, but as to risking
themselves up the hill, was a matter that required much con-
sideration ; it was at length settled, but before we had got
on our road upward, the eight o'clock gun had fired from the
Admiral's ship. For the first four miles, the road was good,
running in a circuitous direction, through groves of fruit trees,
and limes.
A little before midnight we reached the house of the Hermit,
who coming to his door to bid us welcome, appeared very
unlike the idea I had formed of a Hermit; I expected to
have seen a thin ghastly recluse, but before me stood a fat
sleek monk of about forty, not a wrinkle was to be seen in any
part of him. His first care was to lay before me an immense
book, in which, he said, it was customary for all who went up
to insert their names, quality, and occupation ; of course we
could not refuse his request, and each of my companions
having signed his name, and added gent, as occupation, I
followed the general run and did the same, leaving it no
doubt for our successors, should they know us, to laugh at ; but
thus it runs through life, most men wish to rise even for a
short period. Three o'clock was full soon enough to proceed
on our journey, a stone couch supplied the seat, a stone table
130
stood before us ; the Priest provided us with a passable supper
of eggs and bacon, and a bottle of wretched wine. During
our meal the Padre entertained us with an account of his con-
vent, and acknowledged in answer to my question that the
chief motive of his remaining here., was not only to aid and
direct travellers upward, but to support and increase the
funds of his convent, and his profits formed no inconsiderable
part of its revenue ; and of that he soon gave us a most con-
vincing proof, by making us pay four times the Naples price,
both for wine and refreshments, and with a face of sanctity
begged a donation for his convent, which under the title of
(jent we could not refuse to give ; a just punishment for people
soaring above their level ; had we just gone as we were the
donation would have been saved; several times I have been
bitten that way, but experience has taught me better now.
At 3, A. M.,we again proceeded upwards ; a tiresome ride of
two hours placed us at that part of the hill where all vegetation
ceases. Frequent cracks in the earth from which the boiling
lava issued, showed that the downward path was safer than
the upward. At 6, A. M., we got as high as the guides would
,go, and on my proceeding farther upward, they declared I
was mad. As we sat on the top of the hill daylight broke ;
the horizon clear and bright gave us a beautiful view of the
surrounding scenery, but when the sun rose and opened to
our eyes all the majestic beauty that surrounded us, no pen
can describe the effect upon the mind. Seated on the very
summit of a burning mountain, which in one moment might
throw up a river of lava and consume us to a cinder, was
calculated to impress the mind with awe and fear. Before us
the prospect was really pleasing, the bay with its numerous
ships, the City of Naples with its grand buildings, the fortress
of St. Elmo, the stately palace, the consecrated church, and
the fisherman's cottage, from such a height and distance all
tended to diversify the scene and render it at once pleasing
and grand. The place on which we then stood was to all
131
appearance a bed of cinders resembling as nearly as possible
the rough cinders which are usually seen about the shop of a
blacksmith, and which they name clinkers, and here and there
crevices from which the lava bubbled. I had several English
penny pieces in my pocket and a little stick in my hand, this
stick I split at one end, and having inserted one of my penny
pieces into the split end of the stick, dipped it immediately into
the boiling lava ; by pulling it out for a moment to cool, and
again dipping it in, it grew in bulk to the size of a Turkey's egg,
leaving that part of the penny which had been in the stick, per-
fectly clean, and free from lava ; I got several of these pennies,
and considering from whence I took them, they are valuable
specimens. Our guides were highly exasperated at our long
delay in this dangerous region, and frequently threatened to
proceed downward without us, but as we had not paid them,
and I declared if they went, I would not give them a half-
penny, they were obliged to remain, much against their will.
About 8, A. M. we commenced retracing our road downwards ;
the rugged sides of the mountain were far more troublesome
to descend, than to come up, for the slightest slip sent us
sprawling, which from the roughness of the stones, was atten-
ded with bruises, and sometimes cuts. Arrived at the hermit's
we found that he had expected us for sometime, the breakfast
which we had ordered, was quite ready, and for which our
stomachs were in excellent order ; our stone couch, for a seat
was then a perfect luxury ; a short rest after breakfast, and we
bad him farewell. To me he gave his benedicite, supposing
as he said from my tongue, that I was a bon Christiana.
On settling with guides for mules &c., we found that all
our expences amounted to upwards of eleven dollars, but the
gratification fully made up for the expense ; indeed to me it
would have been nothing, if I would have allowed it, but even
in one of my low rank, I could not bear the idea of being under
an obligation to any one ; it was laying a weight on my mind I
could but ill support, A short period before that the Neapolitan
132
government employed a great number of men in digging through
the ashes and lava, in order to clear the ancient city of Pompeii
and Herculaneum ; nearly a whole street was already cleared
at one part to the immense depth of sixty-eight feet. Having
the day before us, we determined to have a view of as much
as possible of the city ; arrived there we soon found a person,
who, acquainted with the place, was willing to shew us the
various parts that had been cleared. The first place he took us
to was a very large building, which he said had been a theatre,
and which, upon examination, I supposed to be correct ; the
roof of the building had been taken off in order to clear
the inside ; the walls were perfectly whole, of a dirty brick
colour, until our guide sprinkled some clear water over them,
when they assumed quite a different hue and looked as if lately
done ; one in particular represented several of the Heathen
deities, among whom Mercury was standing, easily known by
the wings on his feet, and looked very handsome, although so
ancient. The floor was marble, and a sort of red cement laid
out in very small diamond cut pieces about one and a half inch
long, and three eighths thick ; in some parts the floor had
been broken, but it had to all appearance been done by the
curious, for the cement seemed to retain its full strength. On
taking a piece of it in my hand and striking it with a hammer^
the cement and marble broke at once ; curiosities abounded
where everything was a curiosity, but such a strict look out was
kept that nothing should be carried away that it was difficult to
get any thing, however small; and although we visited
every part that was cleared, and delayed the time as much
as possible, the only thing I could procure besides pockets
full of stone, was a rough earthen cup and saucer, much re-
sembling the earthenware flower pots in England ; and for
which I was obliged to pay one Jollar. 1 was heartily tired
of my cruise, and truly thankful when late at night I got up
the R 3 s side almost bare-foot, for the clinker soil of Mount
Vesuvius and its excessive heat had burnt the leather to pieces.
133
At this time two violent parties occupied the City of
Naples ; one of them under a distinguished leader, General
Pape, who was for the dethronement of the King, and placing
his son on the throne ; these were by far the strongest, and
called the Carbonari ; the other party were called Royalists,
who were not numerous, but they had the foreign ships as
auxiliaries, which made them equal to the other. Each party
however practised every means of insulting and injuring the
other, so that it made it almost dangerous for a stranger to
walk the streets after dark. Murders, robberies, and every
crime was perpetrated by both parties.
There was then an eighty gun ship, called the Capre, lying
in the Mole, laden with marine stores of all kinds, which had
been removed from the dock-yards for the better security
thereof. Sometime in January, 1821, in the middle of a very
dark night, this ship was discovered to be on fire, and such was
the nature of her lading, that in a few moments the flames rose
to a terrible height; report was immediately made to the
commanding officer, who ordered the boatswain and his mates
to pipe all hands ; by some mistake the pipe went " all hands
ahoy, the ship's on fire." Every thing seemed to confirm the
awful truth, the ports had only been sloped for the free cir-
culation of air, and the light from the flames was so powerful
that it would have been easy to see a pin on any part of the
decks ; it cannot therefore be wondered at that such a dreadful
pipe to men, just awakened out of a deep sleep, should have
been alarming : dismayed at the sight around them, and expec-
ting every moment the ship to blow up, several overcome
by terror, threw themselves through the ports, but were saved ;
the hatchways became choked, and several who had got partly
up were forced down again, and numbers were more or less in-
jured ; two arms were broken ; ,for my part one moment's
consideration convinced me that it could not be our ship, so
that myself and some few others remained quiet. After some
minutes had passed, the powerful voice of Lieut. S was
134
heard roaring out " this ship's not on fire, it is not us." His
well known voice, the confidence of the men in his abilities
acted like a charm ; (i all hands out boats" gave Jack em-
ployment, and enabled him to forget his fears. Nine of our
boats were soon on their way to the blazing wreck, but all
the boats in His Majesty's navy, had they been there, could
have been of no use ; the only object was to remove those
vessels that were in danger from the fire to a greater distance.
Several vessels were removed, and among them a fine Neapo-
litan frigate, called the Minerva ; it was ascertained that the
ship had no powder on board, so that no apprehensions of her
blowing up were felt ; she was left to burn down to the water's
edge and sink, but it was on the third day before she went
down. The frigate we had towed away having got into the
hands of the Carbonari was suffered to drift on shore and
beat to pieces.
For some time the King had been considered by his friends
in very great danger ; he might be called a close prisoner in his
palace ; every means had been tried by the English to get
him out, but in vain, until the middle of February, when an
officer of the palace by some means discovered an underground
passage from the palace to a creek in the rocks at the water's
edge. It was immediately communicated to the Prime Minister,
who conveyed the pleasing intelligence to the British Admiral.
A Neapolitan standard was sent off to each of the English,
French, Austrian, and Spanish ships, to be hoisted the moment
our barge shoved off.
At 2, P.M., as per appointment, our barge was in attendance
at the spot; a chosen few who had got the news of the approach
of the King, were there in readiness to kiss his hand as he
embarked. As soon as the barge shoved off and got about
one cable's length from the shore, the flag which had before
been flying at her bow was hauled down, and the Neapolitan
Standard flew in its stead. In one moment Naples Bay was
in a blaze, royal salutes were fired from all the numerous ships
135
round. The first intimation the good citizens of Naples had of
the escape of their King, was the firing of guns and seeing their
standard flying at the mast head of the different ships of war ;
then when the people on shore found their royal prisoner had
slipped through their fingers, they were almost distracted. In
the mean time our barge having His Majesty of the two Sicilies
on board, went alongside the Vengeur of 74 guns, where His
Majesty was received with manned yards and another royal
salute. Very soon after the Vengeur got under weigh to carry
the King to the Island of Sicily, she was accompanied by the
Revolutionnaire ; both ships had a fine breeze at first sailing,
but in the first watch, the wind died away to a perfect calm,
leaving a heavy swell after it. Both ships being close together
in a short time fell on board each other, the Revolutionnaire
carried away the Vengeur's figure head and part of her cut-
water, and sustained some damage herself. Povidentially a
light air at S. W. sprung up, which enabled both vessels to
run in again and at 2 A. M. both had re-anchored in the bay.
Very early in March, 1821, a numerous army of Austrian
Troops under the command of General Fremont, marched into
Naples, and took possession of the ports and batteries ; among
those attached to the army, was the young Napoleon Buona-
part, then only a corporal. The day after their entry the
General with the young Napoleon, and his tutor Count Val-
moden, visited the ship ; Lieut. S having been promoted,
Lieut. A had become commanding officer. As he spoke
neither French or Italian, and knowing that I did, he sent
for me to go round the ship and explain to the visitors
the different parts of her ; during the tour I had sufficient
employment to answer the different questions of all, but
most of the young Napoleon. Every part of the ship was
examined with minute attention. As they stood in the gun-
ner's store-room I explained to them that there was then
under their feet, several hundred barrels of gun-powder. I
observed the Count give an involuntary shudder, while the
136
others stood unmoved. The General desired me to ask
Lieut. A , if they could be permitted to see the magazine,
which of course was politely refused, being contrary to the
regulations of the Admiralty; the party then returned on
deck ; when there the General taking out his purse, presented
me with three four dollar pieces, which however wanted,
or pleasing to my view, I was under the painful necessity
of refusing, for in the ship's orders, a severe punishment
was promised to any one found taking money from visitors ;
had the money been quietly put into my hand below, I fear
the temptation would have been too great for me to resist.
For several days the ship was crowded with visitors, I was
constantly going, and seldom had time to eat my meals till
late, when the ship was free from strangers ; it is but just to
say, that no party went round without offering money ; all
were highly gratified, and liberal, and when a good opportu-
nity offered, where is the man who could refuse money ? So
it was with me ; I had none, I wanted some, and when put in
my hand, if no observer was near, I put it in my pocket ; if
any officer appeared, why, I made a virtue of necessity, and
returned it.
A return to Malta having been settled on, preparations were
made for sea. During the year 1821, the R , visited most
of the ports and bays in the island of Sicily, and last of all
Messina ; it was the place where my poor father breathed his
last, and where his remains were mouldering in the dust.
Wishing to see if there was any mark by which I could distin-
guish the spot, and pay the tribute of a tear, to the memory of
a respected parent, I asked, and obtained leave to go on shore ;
the ship being kept under sailing orders, no one else was per-
mitted to land, and on that account my liberty was more
valuable.
137
CHAPTER XIV.
SICILY.
I landed about ten in the forenoon, at the town, and having
taken a boat, went as near the place as I could, which had been
pointed out to me as the burying place of those who had died
of the fever at that time. I saw a great number of mounds
indicating the place where the graves were, but not one boasted
the slightest distinguishing mark, all were alike ; I stood on
the mouldering dead, my eyes wandering over the place in
search of something that might point out what I sought for,
but in vain; at last I observed a genteel looking man at some
distance, whom I took to be a merchant ; as we neared each
other, I addressed him, observing that it was strange that
no stone recorded the names of those who reposed below ;
but the gentleman told me that to place a stone there would
be useless, for it would be immediately removed by order of
the Priests, who deeming the English heretics, would not
allow them even the smallest memento. I left the spot with
sincere regret, and went to the town of Messina, took a walk
over some of the principal streets, and found it as dirty a
place as can well be described ; the streets full of all kinds of
filth, were of themselves fully sufficient to create disorders.
Towards evening I returned to the ship, tired and disap-
pointed ; next day we sailed.
Early in August, the ship anchored in Biga Bay, famous
as having been the residence of the tyrant Nero. The temple
formerly dedicated to Venus was then still standing, but
138
terribly delapidated, the walls mouldering fast to decay. That
of Diana was in a far better state of preservation ; built of
marble and cement, a proof of the beauty and strength of
ancient architecture, it had withstood the shock of ages ; I
took several pieces of the marble and cement as specimens,
but all had to be paid for, to an old man, who it appeared got
his living by shewing the ruins, taking care to remind the visitor
of his poverty. On the left of the entrance lies the town of
Pizzuli, formerly a middle sized town, but now dwindled into
a small village of mean appearance ; from Pizzuli to Naples
is an underground passage, through which a kind of hackney
coaches run to Naples, and carry visitors to the city, but as
this passage is often the scene of murders and robberies, it
is considered dangerous at all times. During the winter the
whole city of Naples, and indeed the whole kingdom remained
in charge of the Austrians, but in the spring the son finding
his hopes of the crow r n blasted, gave it up, and absconded,
and left the field clear to his father to return to his palace,
of which he very soon availed himself. An act of grace pub-
lishing offers of pardon to all, excepting General Pepe and a few
others, was immediately circulated; the Austrian troops
returned to their country, all except five thousand, and the
kingdom of the Sicilies might be said again to enjoy tran-
quillity. Among the many visitors that came to the R ,
was an English woman, who having married an Austrian
sergeant had followed him, during a long and dreary march,
subsisting upon his scanty pay (less than four pence sterling
per day,) without a murmur, apparently satisfied with her lot,
a proof of what an English female will go through for the
man she loves ; on the husband and wife coming on the lower
deck, as soon as it was known that she was a countrywoman,
all the messes were anxious to get hold of them ; they were
most cheerfully welcomed, and on leaving the ship took as
much biscuit with them, as they could well carry. The fall
of 1821, was spent in Malta, and as there was then but little
139
to do in the Mediterranean, the ships lay all the winter in
harbour, quiet; but when the spring of 1822 came, it was
deemed proper to cruize to the different ports, in order to give
Jack his sea legs, and prevent him from forgetting his sea
duty ; after having taken a regular round about turn, among
the different Islands of Corfu, Zante, Cephalonia, &c., without
any thing very particular taking place, late in the summer,
the R visited Porto Ferrajo, in the Isle of Elba, so famous
for having been the residence of the Ex-Emperor of the French,
and from which he made his escape. To a person in exile, with
his ambitious views crushed, Porto Ferrajo must have been
a delightful spot, but to a restless aspiring mind, like Napo-
leon's, it was a prison ; the harbour is well sheltered from
all winds, the town is of a considerable size, and is built
upon a rising ground, on the right on going in, and really has
a very pretty appearance, as it possesses that great rarity in
most foreign towns, cleanliness. I was told by a very respec-
table person there, that at the time of the Emperor's (for he
was still so called) residence there, every part of it was full
to crowding ; completely occupied by those French officers
who had followed the fortunes of their chief; but since his
departure, it was again fallen to nothing ; half the houses
were shut up. The house which had once been the residence
of Napoleon was pointed out to me, there was nothing in it
to mark the residence of one who had so very lately swayed
the sceptre of France, and almost awed half Europe ;
but I was informed that he had a very fine house in the
country, which I saw nothing of. As many of our officers as
could be spared, visited the loadstone mines at Riow ; I saw
^ome beautiful specimens of the ore, and among other things
a very small piece of the stone, which lifted four and a half
pounds of iron. The time of our laying here was the Tunny
season ; as any noise drives the fish out again, the inhabitants
sent a request to the Admiral that no guns might be fired, or
K2
140
drums beat, otherwise he would lose the pleasure of seeing the
sport, and their season of fishery would be lost.
The Tunny fish is very large, weighing from 80 to 200
pounds, and as the mode of catching it is curious, I will
describe it. When caught and cut it is of a deep red colour,
and in the surrounding markets, where it finds a ready sale at
a high price, it is deemed a great delicacy ; my description is
from personal observation and not from hearsay. When it is
ascertained that the Tunny is r*ear shore, and approaching the
harbour, an immense square net is so laid that it encloses all
the mouth of the harbour ; that part of the square which im-
mediately faces the sea lifts up to the water's edge, and is thus
kept up by two very light boats with one man in each ; inside
of that square net is another about two third's the size of
the outer one, this also has gates, and is similarly supported
by two little boats ; inside of these two is a third, but this
third is much smaller and has a bottom ; this also has gates
with heavy leads to sink them in a moment. The first square
is called the entrance At the first of the flood, the Tunny
chases shoals of small fish and finds free admittance into the
entrance, but the moment it is found that no more fish are
coming the gates are let down, and thus the fish is en-
closed in the outer square where it does not long remain in
peace, for both the little boats which held up the gates being
now unoccupied, commence chasing the fish and beating the
water, till after a few round turns it finds its way inside the
second gates which are immediately dropped, and again the
poor terrified fish finds himself in a closer prison, which is
called the hole ; driven again he enters the third place, which is
called the chamber, where he meets his doom. Sometimes, but
it rarely occurs, the poor driven fish makes a vigorous effort,
springs over the net and regains his freedom, but that must be
done quickly or it is too late, for round the upper part of the
chamber is a stout running rope which when hauled well in
141
completely forms a purse, and thus entangles the devoted fish,
and does away all possibility of escape. Early in September,
the R left Elba for Genoa, where we anchored on the
18th, exactly between the Mole Heads ; it was a most dan-
gerous situation, but the master was fearful of not having
sufficient water inside the Mole, and that very fear was nearly
the cause of the loss of the ship and probably all hands. On
the 22nd the wind set in, it came on to blow a gale and the sea
very heavy, there was no room to veer cable ; the ship had
ninety fathoms out ; it certainly was a good scope, but it was
very doubtful how long she might ride in safety; thus for
thirty-six hours the ship was in a most critical situation : it
moderated at last and the sea went down. .On the 24th we
got out and sailed for Malta where we remained until the
24th of March, 1823, and again our summer tour re-com-
menced, and we again visited all the chief places in Sicily and
the Gulf of Venice. In May, the period for which the ship
had been commissioned was expired ; all looked forward with
hope to the arrival of our relief to see our homes again, but
for a long time we were doomed to bitter disappointment, for
first one ship was commissioned, then another, and the second
one was detained from various causes. Early in October we
returned to Malta, had a slight refit, and patiently waited for
our relief; month after month passed by and no relief ap-
peared. Seamen in England had been so long neglected, that
they had gone across the Atlantic for employ, so that it was not
till January, 1824, that we had the happiness of seeing our
relief come round the point; 24th we sailed for England,
taking Naples and Leghorn on our way home. At Naples we
got several statues which had been lately dug from the ruins
of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and sent them as a present to
His Majesty to ornament his pavilion ; among the statues were
two of Venus and Minerva, each of which weighed upwards
of four tons, and barely went down the main hatchway. After
a most trying and long passage we again anchored at Spithead
142
the R having been a contract built ship was very bad,
and it was high time she should come home.
A few hours after my arrival, I had the happiness of again
seeing my dear family, my children were wonderfully im-
proved, and I found that during my absence my friends had
interested themselves and got the eldest boy admitted into the
Royal Asylum, at Greenwich, one of the many institutions
supported by the navy of our country. The ship was ordered
to Chatham to be paid off, and on my leaving her the Captain
gave me, besides my ship's certificate, one written by himself,
for good conduct, &c. ; it was unasked for, and received with
gratitude and pleasure. Whatever may be thought of these
certificates, they are frequently of great service in our way
through life. On our way to London where my wife had
some relations, we called at Greenwich to see our dear boy ;
it is really gratifying to the eye of a parent to see the cleanli-
ness and comfort that pervades the place, they all looked
cheerful and healthy ; as for mine, who was but just ten years
of age, a sweet chubby boy, had the glow of health and happi-
ness on his cheek ; how happy I felt while pressing him to
my bosom, and blessed the hand of those who had placed him
in that happy institution. I begged permission to see the
Captain, now Admiral Me. K , who then had the command;
on his appearing, I begged leave to return my sincere and hum-
ble thanks, not only for the admission of the child, but for
the care that had been taken of him. I got permission for
him to come out for the evening, and also to spend most of the
next day with me which was a great favor as it then was fair
time, when none of the boys were allowed out. On the 26th
I left him and spent two days in London, and on the 29th,
early in the morning arrived at Portsmouth, after an absence
of four years. My thoughts again ran upon the merchant
service, I looked round me for a ship, but no prospect pre-
senting itself, and seeing another ship of war, the B , 74, was
then lying in Portsmouth, I called at the Captain's lodgings,
143
who ordered me on board the ship ; my services were accepted,
and again my name was entered upon a ship of war's books.
My stay in her was short, but during the time, Captain D
interested himself with the Captain Commanding Greenwich
Asylum, and through their kindness my dear boy was removed
from the lower into the upper school ; I was not even required
to sign the bonds which I understood it was customary to do,
some kind friend did it for me.
In January, 1825, an order arrived for the B to proceed
to Lisbon to protect the British Merchants in that place, im-
mediate preparations were made, when in the height of our
bustle the bowsprit was found defective ; another ship was
commissioned in lieu of the B , and we were ordered to be
paid off, but having so small a number of men it was not until
the 23rd of February that she was ready. On paying off, not
one man left the ship although they had free permission to
do so, but all waited until the end of paying, when a certain
number got into each of the watermen's boats then waiting
alongside, separated into two lines, leaving a clear way for the
Captain's gig to pass. As the much respected Captain pulled
through the line of boats, all hats were off, the cheering was
deafening, for watermen and marines all joined in the tribute
of respect. The Captain took his hat off, and his gig's crew
returned the cheers ; the cheer of gratitude for good usage is
all that a seaman has to give, 'tis his all, but in nine cases out
of ten it flows from the very bottom of his heart. I know such
was the case with me, for from many acts of kindness received
from Capt. D , there was nothing but I would have done
to serve him in the slightest way, even in the darkest hour of
the darkest night. He is no more and cannot see these lines.
A few days before the B - was paid off, I received a
letter from Lieut. D , who had been in the R the
whole time with me, offering me a choice of rates hi the B ,
of which he was then first Lieutenant, but as it was even then
uncertain whether or no the ship would be paid off on account
144
of some orders which had come down, and the difficulty of
getting my discharge unless paid off, I declined Mr. D 's
kind offer, and was truly sorry for it in a few days, for when
the B was paid off, and I applied, all the rates I would
have taken were filled up and I remained as I was.
Some days from my leaving the B , I met with Mr.
W , an Admiralty Mate as they were then called, who had
been with me in both ships R and B . He informed
me that he was ordered to join the B m then fitting at
Woolwich, for a scientific discovery voyage to Behrings
Straits, and the South Pacific Ocean ; I saw one of the
bills stuck up, they promised six months' advance, blue
clothing gratis, and other advantages, which though great
were none too much. I cannot say I admired the voyage at
all, but just then ships of war were scarce, I had no alternative.
March 26th, I went on board the ship at Woolwich, and
without any trouble was entered as first class petty officer.
The greatest care was bestowed on her outfit ; no pains, no
expence was neglected to render her safe and comfortable both
to officers and men. Men were easily to be got, but none
were entered but such as produced good characters as thorough
seamen, or were well recommended. Her boats were the very
best, particularly her barge, which might be called a vessel, it
was clinker built of mahogany, coppered, and copper fastened,
thirty-eight feet four inches long, nine feet eleven inches beam,
fitted to carry a 24 pounder carronade, rigged very neatly as
a schooner, with two complete suits of sails ; so that whatever
became of the ship the barge would have been a refuge for
nearly all hands ; our own purchases being unequal to her
weight, blocks and falls fitted expressly for the purpose were
sent on board from the dock-yard. Our supply of provisions
was (as far as the general opinion of us forward ran) liberal in
the extreme ; although plenty of old were in store, our salt pro-
visions had been got ready for the ship, and were barely corned,
besides the usual allowance of provisions. There was a great
145
quantity of pickled cabbage, sour crout, preserved pippins,
portable soup, preserved meats in tin cases, air beds, swimming
jackets, &c. rifle pieces, and articles of traffic ; in fact before
the ship left Woolwich she was as deep as it was possible for
her to sail with, and on her arrival at Spithead it was found
needful to take out her 24 pounder carronades and give her 18
pounders to lighten the metal as well as to ease the ship. May
14th anchored at Spithead ; here I had again the melancholy
pleasure of seeing my family ; melancholy it was, for consi-
dering the nature of the voyage we were about to commence,
there seemed but little prospect of again meeting. Happy it is
that the page of futurity is shut from our eyes, for if one half
the sufferings I had to go through had then been exposed to
my view I should have declined : but the ways of Providence
are inscrutable.
May l?th, 1825, the pay clerk came alongside and gave to
each man his six months' advance, which enabled the men to
supply themselves with any articles of clothing or traffic they
might want ; for my part I spent little for I knew that all I
could spare was required at home, and I felt grateful I had it
to give. That same evening notice was given that all the
females were to leave the ship early in the morning ; not wishing
to keep my poor wife on board who was unused to a ship of
war, and besides had a babe in arms, I begged her to go on
shore while she could do so comfortably, as in the morning
boats would be scarce and crowded with women of all sorts ;
she took my advice ; I bade my family adieu with an oppressive
conviction, it was for ever ; doubly painful, is the agony of such
a moment, because it must be hid or only raise a laugh at our
expence. As they stepped down the side, I thought all hope
was gone, I could scarcely look at the boat rowing on shore ;
that night I had the middle watch and a dull one it was. 19th,
at 5 P. M. the Captain came off, the anchor weighed, and with
a fine breeze at W. S. W. we got round the island ; during the
night the wind increased almost to a gale, but towards morning
146
It veered to N. W., and then to North, and favoured by it the
B , drove over the waves at a good rate ; she was a dull
sailer but a good sea boat, so that what she had lost in speed
she made up in safety, and other good qualities. May 30th,
we anchored at Teneriffe ; the observatory was immediately
landed, surveys commenced, water and wine taken in; the
W , 74 guns, came in the day after us. On the 4th June
both ships sailed together ; from her very superior sailing it
was expected that the W would have been in the Brazils
long before us, but the race is not always to the swift ; so it
proved in this case, for we anchored in Rio de Janiero five
days before the W .
There were on board the ship a great number of officers and
seamen, who had never yet gone South of the Tropics, conse-
quently were to be initiated into the mysteries of crossing the
Equinoctial line, and entering the dominions of Neptune;
great preparations had been making since our leaving Wool-
wich, for an event which promised to some part of the crew
great amusement, to the other great fear ; many a poor girl
at Woolwich, and at Spithead had been deprived of some part
of her wardrobe, to adorn Amphitrite ; from one a night cap
and gown had been stolen, from another some other part of
dress, and although I had no hand in it, I was as bad as the
rest, for I was consenting thereto. An immense grey horse
hair wig, sufficiently long to reach well down the back of
Neptune, had been purchased in England by subscription,
accompanied by a venerable grey beard to sweep his aged
breast ; a tin crown and a trident completed the regalia. On
a review of all those who previously had crossed the line, I
was selected as Neptune ; in vain I endeavoured to defend
myself from being deified, it was useless, I must be Neptune,
all remonstrance was vain; I took it, resolved to use the
trident with mildness. Now reader fancy to yourself the writer
of these lines with his legs and arms well blacked, his cheeks,
vermillion, short and very loose trowsers, a double frilled
147
shirt, from whose ample folds the salt water dripped plentifully,
two swabs for epaulets, a long grey horse hair wig, a vene-
rable beard of the same colour, a tin crown, a trident, and to
complete the whole, a hoarse church yard cough ; fancy all
this I say, and Neptune, or your humble servant in his shape
stands before you. The evening before we expected to cross
the line, the lookout man reported at 8, P. M., a light a head;
presently a hoarse voice hailed "ship ahoy" which being
answered by the Captain, Neptune intimated his intention to
visit the ship early next morning. Accordingly early in the
morning the ship was made snug, the top-sails were close
reefed, courses hauled up, top gallant sails furled, a new sail
was secured to the gunwale of the barge on the booms, the
other edge to the hammock netting, leaving a hollow of eight
feet, capable of containing an immense quantity of water;
into this sail the very men who were to be dipped in it, were
employed in pumping and bailing water, little thinking, poor
creatures, they were making a rod for themselves. A gun had
been dismounted on the forecastle, the carriage made into a
car, on which were to sit Neptune and Amphitrite, and between
them the Triton ; in order to keep all secret, a sail was run
across the forecastle to screen Neptune and his gang from
observation. Just before the appointed time, all who were
likely to undergo the dreadful operation of shaving were
ordered below, the gratings put on, and a constable stationed
to prevent the ascent of more than one at a time ; a wise
regulation, for our numbers were nearly equal, and had they
shown fight, might have conquered ; a rope was rove through
a block on the main yard arm, to one end of which was
secured a handspike, astride of which sat a man with his
hands fastened to the rope over his head.
At 10, A. M. the screen across the forecastle was withdrawn,
and exposed to full view, Neptune and his followers. The
Purser who had never before crossed the Equinoctial, and who
beside was rather inclined to be miserly, applied to the Captain
148
for his orders against shaving ; hush ! Mr. M said the
Captain, Neptune commands to day, and should I interfere,
might ask me some questions, I should find it difficult to
answer. A few minutes after four bells, the car was on the
quarter deck ; the officers forming a half circle, in the front
of which stood the car. When the venerable old Nep, appa-
rently worn down with age and care, rose from his seat, and
thus addressed the officers, frequently turning to the Purser.
" \V ny should old Nep the tropic past omit,
" Or seamen's custom of observing it ?
" Where travelers when first arrived advance
11 To pay their freedom, sugar, rum, or nantz ;
" But if pale poverty the wight surround,
" Or surely he refuse his quart or pound,
" With little from his slender plea we'll try,
" lie must be moistened if his jury's dry ;
" Straight on yon well poised pole is culprit swung,
" His arms embrace the rope by which he's slung,
" Aloft 1 cry, and lo aloft he's soared,
" The highest mortal we survey on board ;
" But let his future fate inform you all,
" The highest have the greatest height to fall,
" Again I cry, and downwards swift he slides,
" Cuts the thin air and wond'ring floods divides ;
" Again aloft he does not long remain,
" Alas, he rises but to fall again ;
" Thrice the blythe crew, the diving miser see,
" And the third plunge completely sets him free ;
" Joyous I'll quit you then with this remark,
" I'd treat ten Neps e'er I'd invite a shark."
A very appropriate address indeed Father Neptune, observed
the Captain, " will you take a glass of wine ?" As it was
offered so it was accepted ; I drank a good health to the tars
of Great Britain. Another glass was handed to Amphitrite,
who, mother like, offered some to the triton by holding the
glass to his lips, taking at the same time special care that not
one drop should go inside his mouth ; the Purser seeing that
he was likely to meet with no support, -and dreading the yard-
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arm and No. 1 razor, turned to me and said " well Father
Neptune what is it to be'?" " Oh just what you please sir,
only remember that the rules of Neptune are like the laws of
the Medes and Persians, they alter not." " Well then/ 5 said
the Purser, ce I will give you two bottles of rum, and some
porter for yourself;" but I could see it gave the poor Purser a
terrible twitch to be forced to so much generosity : the business
with the officers was very soon ended, as they were liberal ; we
gained nothing in the end by it. The first of the ship's company
that were shaved, who was brought up blindfolded by the whole
posse of constables was the armourer, a weather-beaten honest
old Hibernian, who had been a farrier in the Peninsular Army
for many years. At the reduction, he had found his way
as armourer of some small craft, and thence to our ship ; on
his entering for our ship, so anxious was he to be within the
given age, which was thirty, that on being asked his age he
gave it as eight and twenty, although fifty-six was written
in legible characters on his old cribbage face, which through-
tmt the ship 5 s company had gained him the cognomen of old
eight and twenty. On this man then the barber had to per-
form his first functions ; a bucket was filled with all the
cleanings of the hen coops, pig-sty s, &c. and with it a due pro-
portion of tar had been mixed; with a large paint brush
dipped in this villanous compound, and his razor, close to him
the barber stood waiting the signal. My first question was
ft what is your name my man ?" f( John S , your honour/ 5 at
the instant of his opening his mouth the brush went across
it, when the face the poor creature made it is impossible to
describe, " phoo what do you call that ?" " what do you call
that ?" I again asked the old man how old he was, "eight and
twenty your honour, and so I am ; oh I will spake no more,
I will spake no more/ 5 As a last effort to make him open his
mouth, I said if you mean to put him overboard, mind have
a good rope round him for perhaps he cannot swim. Terrified
at the idea of being thrown overboard the poor fellow said, ei I
150
cannot swim, oh, I cannot swim ;" but as the brush again
crossed his mouth, he uttered with his teeth closed, " I will
spake no more, by J s I will spake no more if you drown
me." Amid a roar of laughter two men tripped the handspike
on which he sat and sent him backward into the sail where
the bear was waiting to receive him ; it was soon over, he
escaped and stood by to see his shipmates share his fate. At
the time of his being shaved he was not aware who Neptune
was, when he found it out I could not get him to speak to
me for some time ; at length Irish good temper conquered,
and we were friends again. The shaving continued until after
two o'clock, the decks were washed and every thing was set
to rights again ; Neptune's gang cleaned themselves, and in
the evening attended at the several officers berths to receive
the promised contributions. There was some demur as to
quantity, but what was given was even too much, for some
carried on drinking all night ; for my part I was glad to get to
my hammock and enjoy a privileged night's rest granted to
Neptune's crew.
June the 30th being Sunday, we made the two islands
called Fernando and Noremha ; the cutter was sent on shore
to see what refreshments could be got ; in the first bay we
found a good anchorage close to a high arched rock, from
which flowed a beautiful river of water ; fish seemed to abound
for the beach was covered with it drying, and wild pigeons
flew about in great numbers. There were but few settlers ; one
of them told me that the Portuguese Government to whom
these islands belong, had some years before transported females
to one island and males to the other ; but such had been their
insubordination on both sides, that it had been found needful
to remove them, and at present the inhabitants consisted
of settlers from the mother country ; from them we procured
some poultry, fruit, and six small turtle of the green kind.
The wind was favourable, our time limited, so we soon returned
to the ship, hoisted tfie cutter up and made sail southward,
151
passed among the Canaries and Cape de Verd Islands without
any thing worthy of notice taking place, except the awful
thunder and forked lightning so common along the coast.
Providentially no damage was done ; to a stranger it is par-
ticularly alarming. July llth, passed Cape Frio and next
day entered the port of Rio de Janeiro, came to and saluted
the flag ship, H. M. S. Cambridge.
San Sebastian, the Capital of the Brazilian Empire, lies on
the left of the harbour or bay, and from the sea makes a
handsome appearance ; particularly the palace, of the present
Emperor Don Pedro, which forms three parts of a square,
facing the sea; the harbour, filled with ships of all nations
bespeaks its wealth and commerce. On the opposite side of the
bay, at the footof a high range of mountains lies Braganza, where
the villas of the Brazilian nobility, and the houses of the British
Merchants are situated. Upon the whole Rio presents from the
sea a beautiful prospect to a stranger, where nature clad in hilly
majesty sheds a portion of her own loveliness around; but
however pleasing it may be before landing, the moment he
sets his foot on shore his eye is disgusted with the filthiness of
the place, and his feelings are wounded by the sight of slavery
in all its bitterest horrors. There you commonly see the
lacerated back of the slave, who, in addition to his agony
under punishment, has to bear an iron collar round his neck
for having attempted to escape. Such scenes as these na-
turally turn the thoughts to our own dear little Island where
slavery is known only by " tales of other lands." Forbid it
Heaven that I should say that the Portuguese are all unfeeling
masters, I hope for the sake of humanity it is not so, but from
personal observation I deem a feeling heart to be very scarce
among them. Sometime during our stay in the Brazils a
boat came alongside with a Portuguese Merchant, who brought
some money to be carried round Cape Horn, I was called to
act as a sort of interpreter between the merchant and the
clerk. After the business was settled, the merchant waiting
152
for his receipts, entered into conversation with me ; observing
an unfortunate black in his boat who had a heavy iron collar
round his neck, from which projected three long pieces of
iron, I called him out of the boat, gave him a few vintains
(copper money) and measured his collar, it was 3J inches in
circumference, 17| in length, and so placed, that the poor
creature could not lay down, but must be constantly in a
reclining posture. On my asking the merchant the reason,
he with one of his national shrugs told me, he had run away
three times, and for each time one of these torturing pieces
had been put on. While we lay here, a severe though very
short shock of an earthquake was felt, a few miles from the
city ; many houses were destroyed, and lives lost, but a won-
derful instance of Providential escape came to my knowledge,
which I must relate. A Mr. D , a merchant, who had
retired upon a small income, was standing smoking a cigar
only a few yards in front of his house ; his wife was in a garden
at the back of the house, w r hen the shock opened the earth,
and took away house, slaves and all, buried in one awful ruin,
while husband and wife were one on each side of the dreadful
chasm in perfect security. A Mr. one of our clerks, on a
visit to the coffee plantation of a friend, saw on a tree some
animal, and taking up an orange, struck it on the head, and
knocked it down ; it proved to be a beautiful specimen of the
Vampire Bat, and was of an unusual size, and measured from
tip to toe 174 inches; it had done so much damage to the
plantation that the owner had offered ten dollars to have it
killed. About a week before we left the harbour, fourteen of
our men left us, four of them had taken away the jolly boat
and got safe on shore. One of them had run from the beef
boat one morning, the midshipman of the boat, a mere boy,
on his first trip to sea, and who stuttered very much, came off
full of grief, and seeing the Captain on the quarter deck, went
and told him that the moment the boat's bow had touched
the shore, Martin had jumped out and ran among the crowd ',
153
and, said the Captain, " I suppose Mr. H , you sat and
looked at him running ;" the little fellow hurt that it should
be supposed he had not done his best to recover the man,
stuttered out ee n no sir, I ga gave sheet after him $" the
captain laughed, and the youngster saved a journey to the
mast head. As men were not to be got easily, it was necessary
to get them back on any terms ; application was made to the
authorities but without success, at last the Captain himself
thought of a scheme, by which all those we wanted were safely
got back. He gave out that he positively would sail on a certain
day ; on the appointed day the ship was got underweigh in
the afternoon, and just at dusk came to at the mouth of the
harbour ; after dusk a boat well manned and armed was sent
up to the place, and the men supposing the ship on her way
Southward had come into the town, and thus became an easy
prey to the police and to our boat ; six of them were taken in
one room, enjoying themselves after the privations of a week's
residence in the woods ; all were brought on board except two
lads, who were of little use. About 3, weighed and made sail,
signalized with the Briton frigate, just outside Rio ; for the
first three weeks of our passage the weather was excessively
hot, the thermometer being frequently as high as 92 in the
shade, but after that, it became temperate and then cold.
Previous to our leaving England, an order had been given for
no one to burthen themselves with blue clothing, so that the
cold was sensibly felt by most of us, for August and September
are considered the winter months round the Cape, On the
27th August, a complete suit of clothing, consisting of blue
jacket, trowsers, Guernsey frock, flannel shirt, two pair of
stockings, comforters, Welch wigs, mitts and shoes were given
to each man ; the cloth was really excellent, but the sewing
horrid, however as Jack mostly uses his needle as well as his
marlinespike, we all set to to sew all the seams over again ; for
my part, I walked away with my bale, truly thankful for the
liberality of government in thus providing for our wants ;
154
many of the lads gave the tailors a liberal share of curses for
not doing^ better work, but most were grateful ; I always think
that nothing contributes so much to our gratitude, as when
we feel the comfort of the gift, injuries should be written on
dust, and gratitude on marble. Early in September we got a
sight of Cape Horn, a spot in former years so much dreaded
by navigators, now little thcrught of; that it has in time past
been a volcano is evident, now neither fire or smoke issue
from it. A ship going round the Cape, thus in the depth of
winter is exposed to very bad weather ; I cannot form an idea
of any thing so grand as the sight of a ship off the Cape,
under a closed reefed main-topsail, covered with ice and snow,
and plunging up and down upon the mountain billows, some-
times entirely buried in the foaming surge, and a few moments
after rising as it were to the skies ; scenes like these will im-
press the most hardened with serious thoughts, for then the
mind of man after wandering to and fro in search of some-
thing to dwell upon, at last fixes itself upon its benevolent
Creator, and feelings arise which operate upon the whole of
our future lives. Happy the being who follows their guidance ;
impressions formed at such moments are frequently lasting.
155
CHAPTER XV.
A CURRENT'S THWARTING FORCE.
IT was intended to have shortened the passage by going
through the straits of Le Maire, but repulsed by the winds
and currents, we were obliged to bear up, and thus lengthened
the run. From reports I expected to see the Patagonians, a
regular race of giants, as the seamen say, seven feet between
the eyes, but though they were tall, I saw none that exceeded
six feet four, and these were not numerous. After a fair run
we got round the Cape, and with a fresh breeze bore up for
the Bay of Conception, where on the 1st October we anchored,
and found laying there the Cambridge, Briton, Tartar, Blonde,
and Dart, a pearl fisher. The Bay of Conception entirely
landlocked, and enclosed at its entrance by the Island of Quara-
quino, is ot an immense size, capable of containing a vast
number of ships ; the land is good and productive, but such is
the indolence of the people, that we found it difficult to
procure even vegetables ; there is one village at the bottom of
the bay, but the inhabitants are poor to a degree, living mostly
on Indian corn, and mussells with which the shore abounds.
They are a mixture of Spaniards and Indians, with long black
hah* matted with filth and vermin ; such as is in their power
to give, they are liberal with, if it costs them no work ; their
houses are built with a sort of clay, mixed with straw, thatched
with coarse new grass, the inside is much worse than the out-
side. Nine miles from this is the City of Conception, the
L2
156
largest within a great distance ; its houses are white washed,
and built more regularly, so that from the sea it has a pleasing
appearance, but like most Spanish towns, the streets are one
continued scene of dirt and filth. The observatory was landed,
and I was sent on shore to watch and take care of the instru-
ments. One of our gentlemen, Mr. S , during a morning
ramble met a little boy about eight years of age, a mixture of
Indian and Spaniard, with a shaggy head of hair, a perfect
stranger to the comb, a sort of nondescript animal. Mr. S
being very desirous of taking his likeness, offered him half a
dollar to stand still. The little fellow eyed the money, and
supposing it a free donation, stopped and held out his hand,
but seeing the drawing apparatus come forth, took to his heels,
and without looking right or left ran away, leaving Mr. S
to regret the loss his drawings had sustained. Some days
after one of the officers purchased a bird just out of the nest,
entirely covered with long white down, which he understood
to be a young Condor ; great care was taken of it, supposing
we had met with a wonderful acquisition to our specimens ;
I was for a whole day employed in making a net work cage
for it, when after some months of the utmost care, it turned
out nothing more or less than a Turkey Buzzard. The boats
of the squadron watered us, and our own boats were employed
in digging coals, which were had upon paying so much per ton.
One of the men belonging to H. M. S. Cambridge, here gave
himself up as the murderer of Mr. Bond and his housekeeper
at Woolwich, and was sent home in the Tartar, a four masted
frigate ; but on his arrival it was found he had only done it
to get clear of his ship. He was sent out of the land for five
years, as a just punishment.
During our stay here one of our men Robert O , a poor
foolish Welshman as he was called, left the boat while on
shore ; from his simplicity the first Lieutenant supposed he
had only strayed, and forbore to make any immediate search,
but when it was too late he was found to have sailed in a
157
small vessel. 19th, the Tartar sailed for England, taking
with her the last bag of letters we were likely to send for a
long time ; the other ships sailed at the same time for Val-
paraiso, for which place we also sailed on the 20th, and on the
23rd again joined all our companions in the Bay of Valparaiso.
It is a large open bay filled with ships of all nations, who call
there on their way to the different ports in the Pacific. It is
sheltered from all winds, Northern excepted, which prevail in
June and July, and render it dangerous for ships to lay there.
On the left, the land rises by a gentle ascent, till it terminates
in the Andes, a range of mountains supposed almost the
highest in the world.
The town of Valparaiso is by far the best on that side of the
Cape ; its cleanliness and good streets are more to be attributed
to the foreign merchants that inhabit it, than to the natives of
the place, whose indolence prevents them from struggling with
any trouble or labour ; here we completed all our provisions
and stores, got a supply of fresh beef, and among other things
got a bull and cow for Pitcairn's Island. 26th October, got
under weigh from Valparaiso ; during our stay there we had
shipped one man who was engaged to assist the naturalist in
his researches after plants, and also to preserve birds ; he
was a great acquisition to the voyage, being reputed one of
the best shots in England. November 6th, we made land, or
it might more properly be called a reef, for it was only one
ledge of shingle and rough stones ; not a vestige of a tree or
verdure was to be seen on it ; Tropic birds in abundance, but
extremely shy. Round its shores sharks were innumerable ;
all means were tried to catch them, but food being plentiful
they would not touch our bait. This we found to be the Isle
of Salus ; our stay there was but short ; we made sail, and on
the 13th again saw the land, Easter Island, a fine high fertile
island, named as it is supposed, from the day on which Capt.
Cook discovered it : as we neared the land, the natives in
vast numbers were seen running along the beach in order to
158
keep up with the ship ; they seemed all very anxious for us to
land. At one, in the afternoon, the ship was hove to,, the
cutter, gig, whale boat, and jolly were sent on shore under the
command of Lieut. P -, who was cautioned to try the
dispositions of the natives before he attempted to land. I
was in the cutter steering her; as we drew near to the
shore the natives seemed very desirous we should land, making
signs and shewing yams, bananas, and other fruits to entice
us to come on shore. Mr. P not wishing to run any risk,
ordered the boats to be anchored about half a cable's length
from the beach ; the natives seeing that we were not inclined
to land, swam to the boats in great numbers, many of them
with bunches of bananas, willingly exchanging them for any
trifling article we might have to give. The natives were of a
very bright copper-colour, perfectly naked, fine long black hair
floating gracefully on the water as they swam about. After
having been about an hour in the boats, Mr. P feeling
confident of their friendly intentions, ordered the boats to be
dropped in shore, and himself and all hands landed, taking
presents and articles of traffic with him, and at the same time
leaving the coxswain in each of the boats to guard the arms,
and keep the boats afloat. Being the largest boat I hauled
off, and each of the smaller boats made fast to me to be ready
to drop at a moment's notice ; most of the officers had taken
their swords and one in particular his pistols.
For nearly two hours I remained quiet ; numbers of the
natives were playfully swimming round the boats, at last one
of them, a girl of about sixteen, threw one foot over the gun-
wale of the boat and rolled in, and without the slightest alarm
came and sat alongside of me in the stern sheets of the boat,
had a fair examination of all parts of my dress, managed with
some trouble to unbutton my shirt sleeve, and having tucked
the sleeve well up, laid her arm alongside mine to compare
the difference of colour. I think I never saw a handsomer
form ; like the rest of the natives, she was of a bright copper-
159
colour, roman nose, and pleasing features, with hair of glossy
black, nothing about her like the thick lipped African. Before
I had long enjoyed (for it was enjoyment) her company, I
observed that appearances on shore were any thing but peace-
able, however my companion did not seem alarmed. Our
cutlasses were triced up under the boat's thwarts in two
beckets, mine had slipped the hilt out of its place, and was
hanging down. The young lady for sometime kept her eye
on it without my taking any notice, presently she took a leap
and taking the cutlass was overboard in a moment, and I
watched her to some distance under water. There were lying
by me several muskets and pistols loaded, I certainly might
have shot the poor girl, but where is the heart who could level
a pistol at a beautiful woman? Just then I observed our
officers and men making a precipitate retreat to the beach, and
the natives following them with a shower of stones quite to
the water's edge. The Purser during the fray had been
stripped completely to the skin, and on getting to the boat
was obliged to cover himself with the boat's mizen.
At the landing place upward there was a gently rising hill
which terminated in a beautiful plain ; an old man named
M s, was assistant to the naturalist, and earned his
plants in a tin box much in the shape of a soldier's knapsack ;
just as the old man stood on the edge of the hill, a very large
stone, from the slings of one of the natives struck his tin box
with such force as to knock him on his side, and sent him roll
after roll down to the water's edge, with a noise that astonished
us all ; the old man was not hurt, but much alarmed, he soon
sprung up, and casting a melancholy look at his late course,
said (e I maunt go there again ;" the boats were got in, and
the men embarked, and although the natives were very thick
no order to fire was given, for a shot would have done much
havoc. As the boats pulled out and I was steering the cutter,
a heavy stone struck me on the head and cut through a new
leather hat, and inflicted a dreadful gash in my head, from
160
which after some time Dr. N extracted a large piece of
the skull ; as it was it laid me senseless, and thus I was taken
to the ship where the wound was dressed, as well as several
others who had also been slightly wounded. For my part
several days passed, and it was doubtful whether I should ever
recover ; youth and a good constitution, with the blessing of
the Almighty, aided by the Surgeon, recovered me, and I again
resumed my duty. Considering the friendly way in which
some navigators had been treated, it seemed strange that these
people should have acted thus, but it was afterwards found
out that an American South-seaman had, a short time before,
visited the same island, and having decoyed a great number of
their females on board, had made sail and taken twelve with
them. Considering the aggravated injury, it is not the least
to be wondered at that these poor creatures should seek to
revenge themselves in a most cruel manner, and as soon as
possible the boats were got up and sail made on the ship.
November 24th, the land was again seen from the mast
head ; on nearing it we found it to be a long low island, not
much unlike the Isle of Salus; boats were immediately
manned and sent on shore to survey the island ; on landing it
was found a rocky barren spot not more than two feet above
high water mark, and on the very top of it the remains of a
very fine ship, in such a state of decay, that her broadside had
fallen in ; all round were strewed sails, masts, spars, casks,
chests, &c., with cabin furniture, and various utensils of
cookery ; there was not a paper to be seen or any thing by
which the destiny of her crew could be known. We should
even have remained ignorant of her name, had not one of the
men found one of her spars, on the heel of which was burnt
Matilda, Plymouth, and by it we found that the ship now
before us had fitted out in Plymouth for a whaling voyage in
1 792, and since that no intelligence of her had been received ;
it was evident that whatever had become of them the crew had
left the island, as not a bit of clothing was to be seen, we
161
still had hopes of falling in with some of the sufferers upon the
different islands we had to visit. There was nothing that
could be of any use to us, all was so decayed except the
lead on her stem, which served to make fishing leads for the
ship's company. Under her bilge innumerable tropic birds
had built their nests, so valuable for their plumage, particu-
larly two long feathers of a deep red colour on the tail ; they
were easily caught, and numbers of them that day lost their
skins to ornament private and public museums. As there
was no land marked on that spot, the Captain ordered the
Island to be named Matilda's Island. Towards evening we
again made sail, and on the 28th we again saw the land, Bow
Island, and ran the ship into a very fine lagoon, and found
there our old companion the Dart busily employed in collecting
pearl oysters. The island is low and covered with palm and
cocoa-nut trees ; there are but few inhabitants on it, and those
wretched to a degree, depending solely on cocoa-nuts and fish
for food ; they do not appear to have been long residents here,
but are supposed to have been driven by heavy winds from
some other island while fishing or at war, for their whole num-
ber did not exceed forty. Being myself convalescent I had
nothing to do, and for the recovery of my strength was allowed
to take gentle exercise, either by going on shore or on board
the Dart, and by that means had a fair opportunity of seeing
the process of catching the pearl oysters and extracting the
pearl.
The pearl fishing vessels usually call at Otaheite, from which
the strongest divers are got and bargain with them for the
season for so much (duck,) tappa to do their best for the good
of the voyage. A whale boat with from three to four divers
leaves the vessel, and when arrived at the spot where they ex-
pect to find the oldest and largest oysters, they anchor the
boat ; a long pole on each side the boat is then let down to the
bottom, unless the water be too deep, in which case the diver
goes without one, but in either case he stops always long
162
enough under water to bring up eight and often more oysters ;
rising above the water with a bound, he throws his oysters
into the boat, and if not exhausted by his first trip he goes
on again ; if fatigued another takes his place. When oysters
are plenty the boats are soon filled, and when so go to the
vessel. On the deck is a large square table, at one side of
which sits the master of the vessel, and at the other the super-
cargo, each having a metal plate and knife and fork of the
same kind before them so as not to injure the pearl. The
oysters are then hove on deck, opened with great caution by
the crew, the fish separated from both shells is left on the flat
shell and placed on the table alongside each plate in turn ;
they are then put on the plate and gently pressed all over
with the edge of the metal knife until a hard substance is
found, which on being taken out proves a pearl of more or less
value. Some of the oysters produce several pearls of different
sizes, but it occurs sometimes that several are opened and not
a pearl found. When the pearls are taken out they are put
into a glass of clean spring water, where those which are the
most valuable are the most difficult to distinguish. So expert
are these divers at their business that they have been known
to open several oysters under water for mere amusement ; but
before they reach that power their sufferings are extreme. At
all parts of this island parrots were abundant ; numbers of
them were shot and eaten by our officers. I ate one roasted
which I thought very good, but in such cases hunger is an
excellent sauce. Here we also cut some sort of wood of a
blood-red colour to which our carpenters could give no name ;
it was so hard as to resist the edge of the axe, nothing but
a sharp saw could penetrate it, and that but very slowly ;
but fire-wood was required for the ship, and however great the
trouble it must be had. November 29th, having completed
survey, wood and water, weighed and made sail, and on the
2nd Dec. made land, which we knew to be Gloucester Island ;
seeing that there were some of the inhabitants just abreast of
163
the ship, a boat was dispatched to the shore while the ship
ran along the land ; the boat soon returned, bringing with
them a man who, in pretty good English, stated that he was
a native of Chain Island, that himself and twenty-one of his
fellow islanders, with their wives and little ones, had left Chain
Island in two war canoes, for the purpose of paying their
respects to the King of Otaheite ; that during their passage,
bad weather had come on and blew them about for two or
three weeks, when at last in the greatest distress they had
been driven in sight and landed upon this island, where they
had now been twenty-two moons. He stated his name to be
Twarii, and one of the first Chiefs upon the island : he begged
that as the ship was bound to Otaheite, he might be taken
on board with his wife and two little ones and landed there ;
from whence he might send a schooner for his companions in
adversity. The Captain kindly granted his request, and
although our own provisions were very short he was taken on
board with his family, and provisions allowed for them ; for
from such a place as Gloucester Island, but little could be
expected ; in the evening we made sail.
On an exact survey of our provisions it was found that all
our bread had got very mouldy and bad, and as it was un-
certain how long it might be before we could replenish our
stock, the Captain deemed it proper to put all hands six upon
four of all provisions, rum excepted, and in order to make
all upon a par, officers and men were alike. One of the most
sensible acts that could be done, as when a difference is made
in fayour of officers it invariably creates dissatisfaction, and
sometimes serious consequences result from it ; but when a
seaman sees his superiors bear with resignation the privations
allotted to all, he can no longer murmur.
Dec. 24th, 1826, at daylight, made the land; a fine large
island covered with trees, and laid down on the chart as Oeno,
but from what we could see so surrounded by high rollers,
that it appeared impossible to land. The cutter was however
164
got ready, and before she shoved off orders were given to the
officer in her to be careful of the rollers, and not endanger the
men and the boat or instruments. For sometime we pulled
exactly along the rollers, outside of them about a cable's length,
till coming to a bay where it seemed rather more smooth,
although the rollers were very high the boat was anchored,
and from them the officer commenced making his observations.
On our right as we lay was a high rocky point, at which only
one roller touched now and then. The officer in hopes of
landing and getting more correct observations, ordered the
cable to be eased away, but instead of tailing in the boat, drove
first inside of one roller. Ah 1 hopes were then gone; the
officer saw his mistake, and ordered the cable to be hauled in
again, but before she could rise over one roller, the next came
into her, tore the stern out, and washed all hands out of the
boat. I must have been washed on shore by the first or second
sea, for on coming to my senses I found myself high and dry
upon the beach, which was thickly covered with sea eggs of a
very large size, the prickles of which had wounded my back
and legs very much. I was at first terrified at seeing the
blood streaming from all parts of my body, but finding the
wounds but slight, I commenced looking about for my com-
panions. Out of ten who had been in her, besides the officer
and myself, I could only see the officer and four men ; Mr.
appeared very much hurt, and said to me " where are
the rest of them?" (meaning the boat's crew), "ah where
indeed sir/' said I, I fear among yonder waves ; four out of
the other five soon appeared very much wounded, but all able
to walk ; as for the tenth who was a fine healthy young man, a
native of Huh 1 , in Yorkshire, he was hurried into eternity, and
no where to be found. I am not at all inclined to believe in pre-
sentiment, but I well remember only the evening before, as
Peter T and myself, with the unfortunate youth, were doing
something on the main-yard, we were passing a small island
a few miles on the starboard beam, when the young man
165
looking at the land, said "Oh that I was on shore there, or
any where else out of this ship, for I shall ever be miserable in
her." Poor fellow, I saw no just cause why he should be
miserable, but his career was short. We remained on the
island for some hours without any hope of getting off, provi-
dentially the barge was within signal distance ; her signal was
made to close, in a short time she anchored outside the rollers
with the Captain and Master in her. Two gratings well
secured together, and on the top of them two barricoes, were
veered through the rollers with new whale line ; one of us
at a time sat on the gratings between the barricoes with
his back to the sea; and thus sometimes over, sometimes
through, were dragged to the barge. Nothing but the most
powerful exertions could have saved our lives ; we were taken
to the ship, where it was some time before we recovered of
our numerous wounds, which though not deep, were very
painful.
It again became necessary to shorten our allowance of pro-
visions, and issue to each man at the rate of eight men on the
allowance of four, little enough for any thing, but a necessary
precaution for our own safety. Each man's allowance of pro-
visions for twenty-four hours was then eight ounces of soft
bread baked on board daily, six ounces of salt beef or pork,
alternate days, six ounces of flour for dinner one day, and one
gill of pease the next ; rum was not curtailed, we still had
full allowance of that ; little as it was few murmured, for all
saw the need of it. It is true it affected our tempers, and
among ourselves we seldom agreed, for whoever knew a
hungry man good tempered ; I never yet did, and hungry we
certainly were. Reader, were you ever really hungry ? I mean
not the common hunger arising from health and exercise, and
which you have the means of appeasing at your own, or at
some one else's cupboard whenever it suits ? no, no, I mean
the knawing hunger of starvation ; if you have not, you can
form no idea of the agony it causes. It has been my lot
166
during the vicissitudes of a seafaring life, to have suffered
hunger and thirst to excess,, and although it is impossible to
express the corporeal agony it causes, yet some notion may
be conceived of it from the effect it has on the mind ; it seems
to a person oppressed with hunger as if he hated the whole
world ; that theft would be a virtue if committed to procure
food, and no effort is thought too great to get it.
Such is the case that a person going to sleep overcome with
hunger or thirst, is always sure to dream of it, and in his
sleep fancies himself revelling in whatever he most requires ;
such was my case, and once in particular (at a subsequent
date), it was to be my first watch below ; a few minutes
before eight the order was given for the watch to turn in
with their boots on, or in other words to lay down with
their clothes on, I had just laid down, and dropped off
into a sweet sleep, but my waking thoughts haunted my
sleeping hours ; I dreamed, (for it was a dream) that I was
walking up High Street, Portsmouth, and on my way met
Capt. O , with whom I had sailed before, who recog-
nised and stopped to speak to me; he soon made some
remark upon my meagre look, when I told him that I had
just come on shore and was very hungry. With a heart filled
with pity for which Capt. O was always noted, he said
poor fellow you look so, but come with me and I will give you
something to eat ; I followed, when he led me into the George
Inn, and desired the landlady to supply all my wants imme-
diately, the landlady apologized that she had nothing in the
house but a mutton stew, but part of it should immediately
be brought in for me.
For this very moment the landlady is present to my eye ;
methinks I just now see her, a fine stout jolly body of about
forty years of age, dressed in a black silk gown with a white
habit shirt, a fine open forehead adorned with flat ringlets, a
cap rather gaudy that seemed to rival the snow in whiteness ;
but best of all the white earthen tureen, and the ladle of the
167
same, whose bent end was overhanging its side ready for the
grasp of a hungry man. The tureen was well filled with the said
mutton stew and dumplings (vulgarly called doughboys) grace-
hilly floating on the top, and shewing thin white tops over the
beautiful brown liquid, oh the happiness, the delight of such
a moment ; but mark the change, just as I was about to grasp
the ladle, first a gentle twit twit arrested my attention, and
presently the horrid pipe of all hands save ship, sounded in my
ears. In one moment the gay vision vanished, my hopes were
blasted, the ship was on shore ; the result for another chapter.
168
CHAPTER XVI.
THE ship was on shore ; to a landsman, a person who every
night enjoys the comforts of his home, his bed, and his family,
it seems but little. No soul breathing can fully appreciate, fully
enter into the feelings of men, who in such a place as Behring's
Straits, see their ship on shore, but an old experienced
seaman : but as I was only relating my dream, and some
months supervened before her being on shore, I must return
to my former place.
December 25th, 1825, while our friends were enjoying the
blessings of the season, we were very short of food. At day
light we saw the land, a very high island, Pitcairn, famous as
being the residence of the remaining part of the mutineers of
H. M. S. Bounty, very high and rocky, about eleven miles
from end to end ; the north east end covered with cocoa nut
trees, and on this spot the descendants of the Bounty's muti-
neers have erected their dwellings, nine in number. The
island itself is dangerous to approach, being surrounded as
most of the islands are in the Pacific, with terrible heavy
and large rollers, beating with awful fury against the rocks ; no
part of it is accessible to boats, except the whale boats of the
natives, guided by themselves into a little creek, where they
always have a party ready to drag them on shore, the moment
they touch the beach, otherwise the draw back surf takes
them, and dashes them to pieces on the rocks ; in thus
guiding their boats, they have an experience which* could only
169
have been obtained by dire necessity and constant practice.
It being late when we got near the land, we stood off and on
all night, and about six the next morning, a whale boat was
seen pulling from the land towards the ship. It was about 8
when she came alongside ; in the stern of her sat the only
white man, who was soon known by Captain B , as
Adams, the only survivor of the Bounty's crew. A minute or
two after the boat came alongside, the Captain stepped to the
gangway, and looking down into her said " where's old Aleck ?"
when one of the men who sat in the boat tapped him on the
shoulder, saying, " here he is, is'nt he a venerable old fellow ?"
To us, who did not dream of such a thing, we felt surprised
at hearing good English spoken in the centre of the Pacific.
Aleck, as he was called, was asked to step up ; he seemed
much alarmed and trembled, probably painful ideas just then
rushed across his mind. It was the first ship of war's side
he had ever ascended since the fatal occurrence that had made
him an alien and a criminal, and even then he was uncertain
how far his life was safe ; but the gentlemanlike and kind re-
ception of Captain , soon dispelled his fears, and perfectly
restored his assurance. Methinks I see him just now, a
venerable old man fair as possible, locks short and thin, white
as the driven snow, and a countenance a perfect model of be-
nevolence. As I stood with my eyes rivetted on the object
before me, so calculated to inspire respect, I said to myself,
and is it possible that the being before me is a mutineer ; so it
is, but who can tell the cause of the mutiny, or how small his
share in it has been ? He was dressed in loose white trousers,
a white shirt and a straw hat, and was then about 63 years
old and in good health ; indeed the very regular habits of
himself and hia companions bade fair to insure long life. His
companions in the boat, were I think eight in number ; one,
his own son, a fine young man, extremely dark, but with the
features of the father, about 22 years of age ; and a son of
Mr. Christian's, the tallest man upon the island, not so dark
M
170
as the other, but with very fine features. He was named by
his father, Thursday October Christian, from the day on which
he was born; the others in the boat were descendants of
Young, Quintal, and Me. Coy. Mr. Adams was invited to
breakfast with the Captain and his son in the gun-room ;
indeed all were placed at the officers' tables. After breakfast
the boats were got out and the Observatory was landed with
great trouble, and only by the aid of the natives. I was
ordered to remain on shore to take charge of it, and Nep, the
Captain's large Newfoundland dog was left to take care of the
tent when I left it ; there was no point of duty that could
have pleased or suited me better ; my first care was to set up
the tents and the Observatory. Besides the tent which covered
the instruments, there were two others, in one of which was
a small bedstead on which the Captain sometimes reposed
until the stars appeared, and the other was my parlour and
bed room, in fact my every thing, particularly in places where
our meals had to be prepared ; it then became kitchen and
pantry with all its other qualities. When my tents were
all ready I had a few hours to spare, which I could well have
dedicated to sleep, but curiosity conquered, so leaving my
faithful Nep in command, I went down to the houses which
were only about half a mile from me ; on my way I met the
venerable old Adams, who informed me that Captain had
promised to take his meals at each of the houses in turn, and
that it was his (Mr. A. 9 a) wish that I should, as often as I could,
take my meals at his house ; but when I could not make it
convenient to come down, provisions ready cooked should be
sent up to me. Mr. A. took me to the different parts of the
village, as it might be called ; there were nine houses, built
mostly with bamboos, and very neatly thatched with dry cocoa-
nut leaves, remarkably clean and in good order. Eight of the
houses were dwellings, the ninth was appropriated to public
worship as a school, and as a general store for yams, traffic, &c.
From observation, it seemed that these people understand the
171
grand ethic rule, let A do to B as B would wish A to do to
him ; the product is honesty and contentment.
The children and many of the adults were then at school,
taught by a young man their schoolmaster, who had left an
American South seaman, disgusted with the sea, and become
a member of this little community. I saw several little ones who
read and wrote very well, indeed there was no one then on the
island but could read the scriptures ; about half the island was
cultivated, the other half was rocky and barren. They were
governed by a regular code of laws, established first by
Mr. C , and rigidly enforced by Mr. Adams. Mr. A.
kindly explained to me the whole of their manners and cus-
toms, with all the proceedings since their first coming to this
island. By the first law, every family had a portion of land
to cultivate, except the schoolmaster, who being constantly
employed in instruction was a privileged person. When
each of the families have gathered the produce of their ground,
it does not belong to them individually, but is put into the
general store, from whence it is withdrawn to supply the wants
of all without regard to the quantity each has put in. Thus it
is as to trade with shipping, who sometimes call for refreshments,
no purchase is private, and all tend to the general comfort,
and to the general stock. Any quarrels, or little family dis-
agreements, which will take place in the best regulated families,
are all referred to Adams, who, as supreme judge, takes the
chair, and by all is called the father. On looking over the dif-
ferent plantations, I was surprised at the neatness and re-
gularity there displayed ; in their houses there is but little
furniture to boast of, but a sort of bamboo bedstead, raised
about four feet from the ground and abundantly covered with
tappa, a sort of white cloth, manufactured from the palm bark ;
there are also stools white as possible, and on the shelves round
might be seen knives, forks, and blue plates and basins, the
produce of their traffic. Adam's wife had been perfectly blind
since the birth of her son, who was then twenty-two years old :
M2
172
it was really pleasing to see the kind attention paid to her, not
only by her husband, but by all the little community, who,
sensible of her privations, endeavoured by the tenderest care
to make her forget some of them.
Whatever occurs, nothing can prevent general and public
worship ; the day begins and ends with prayer. At 4, in the
morning, every soul on the island repairs to the church-house,
as it is called, where two hymns, either of Wesleys or Watts'
selections are sung or rather said in a soft plaintive tone, well
suited to the scene ; after which a prayer is said, sometimes
from a book, sometimes otherwise, but in ah 1 cases every one
responds a hearty Amen. When prayer is ended, all are at
liberty to return to their houses or go to work in their grounds
as occasion may offer. Ten o'clock is the hour all over the
island for the first or morning meal, as it is called ; at this
time all repair to their houses to breakfast, which usually con-
sists of yams, cooked in so many different ways, that a stranger
would be puzzled to find out the yam at all. Fish is also used
for breakfast : I have seen pork on the breakfast table, but it
is not common. Before any one attempts to touch the food,
the oldest person at the table implores a blessing on it. It
was delightful to see the venerable Adams take his hat off to
pray ; it brought to my mind those beautiful lines in Burns'
Cotter's, Saturday night :
" His bonnet reverently laid aside,
" The saint, the husband, and the father pray'd
" To heaven's eternal king."
(The quotation may be incorrect for it is long, very long since
I read it ;) the day is again devoted to various duties, those
whose grounds are in good order and require no tillage, some-
times go fishing ; this is either done in their whale boat or off
the rocky points of the island. Rock cod are sometimes very
plentiful, as also several kinds of shell fish; some of the members
of the families who are full of health and strength sometimes
go among the rocks where goats are numerous, but very difficult
173
to catch, but when they can find them on level ground they
often run them down. During my stay I saw October Chris-
tian and young Adams run down several, which were sent as
presents to the seamen of the B . Four o'clock is the
afternoon meal, as they have but two in the twenty-four
hours ; at dinner fish, pork, yams, and while we lay there,
poultry was found on the table 5 they had no other vege-
tables than yams and a little taro. When the afternoon
meal is ended, every one again repairs to the church-house
and there prayers being said or read and hymns sung, the labour
of the day is ended and every one is free to go where he thinks
proper. Such is the power of Mr. A , founded on pure
affection, that although for years after the arrival of the muti-
neers on this island, they had made rum from the tea roots,
still after the death of Mr. Christian, when Adams took the
government, he immediately forbade the making as well as the
use of spirits, and fearing that addicted as they were to it, they
might do it privately, he destroyed the still and by setting
them a bright example entirely conquered. Adams himself
was a man of no education, but a firm and powerful mind
enabled him to conquer difficulties, from which men of liberal
education would have shrunk. During my stay on the island
I always observed him exercise unbounded authority over all,
from which none seemed oppressed, for it was done in a
manner so kind, so manly, yet so gently, that all took pleasure
in obeying ; one general uniformity seemed to pervade the
whole of these happy islanders. Their manners, abilities and
habits reflect a lustre on the character of the venerable Adams,
which nothing can darken, and for which generations yet
unborn may have to bless his name. Whatever dark spot
may rest on his name as a mutineer, (and his share was small
for from his own lips I had the whole account) his future con-
duct to the descendants of his poor deluded countrymen has
fully compensated for. Never can I forget, nor can any one
that saw it, the day he spent on board the ship ; at 4, p. M,
174
unbiased by time or place, he fell on his knees at the breech
of one of the carronades on the quarter deck, and for a few
minutes remained in fervent prayer. He knew that just at
that moment -his family were engaged in the same way, and
willing not to neglect a duty so sacred, he dropped on his
knees and there amid the noise and din of a ship of war,
did he implore blessings on those who seldom prayed for
themselves. It was said by some on board that it was
mere show, but I am convinced to the contrary, for had
he known the hour he would have sought a place of retirement ;
beside his whole life, and every action bespoke a man who
reverenced his God. We boast of our laws and well we may,
for they are the best in the world, but to see the pure manner,
rigid piety and moral conduct of these islanders, descen-
dants of mutineers, showed us an example, it would not be
improper to follow ; for my part it left an impression on my
mind, I trust I shall never forget.
During our stay at Pitcairn's Island several of us as far as
provisions went were chargeable to them ; still, considering the
very low allowance of provisions on which those on board
were living, Adams frequently sent bags of yams and several
goats, not only to the officers but to the seamen, who grate-
full for his kindness collected books, paper, pens, needles,
thread, lines, &c., making one common stock and sent them
on shore as a token of sincere good wishes to the little com-
munity. Among my very small library was a neatly bound
volume of Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress, to this Mr. A
took a great fancy ; there was no other on the island or I
believe in the ship ; this book had been given me by a daughter
as a parting souvenir., and I felt regret at giving it away, but I
wrote my name in it and gave it him. A friend who has since
been to Pitcairn's, and who was then with us, saw among
others my book taken good care of. Our carpenters put
both their boats in complete repair, and also did several other
jobs for them ; the Captain also ordered them a quantity of
175
clothing, and a box of seeds of most kinds grown in England.
The cow having died on her passage, the bull was useless, it
was therefore killed to supply the ship's company ; taking into
consideration the kindness of Capt. and his officers, for
all were kind, we left them far better than we found them on
our arrival. Even at that time when no more than sixty three
souls were on the island, water was not abundant, for when
the inhabitants were supplied, there was but little to spare ;
and as all danger from removal is done away with, should
numbers increase, it will be found needful to remove to some
other place more calculated to supply their increasing wants.
From Adams 5 own lips, as we sat at the table in his house, I
got the whole account of the fatal mutiny which for ever blas-
ted the prospects of Mr. C and his companions, and at
first intended to have inserted it in this little volume, but'fear-
ful of giving the slightest offence, or wounding the feelings of
any one by recalling to their minds scenes long past, and which
we may justly hope from the present pleasing regulations
of our navy will never occur again, I shall draw a veil over
all the unfortunate affair and only tell the reader that I saw
the Bounty, or at least as much of her as had not been burnt,
laying on her broadside in six fathoms of water ; it must be a
calm smooth day to render her visible, for the least ripple dar-
kens the water so that the eye cannot penetrate it. I however
managed to get pieces of her from which many snuff boxes
and other trifling things were made. On their arrival at Pit-
cairn's there were only nine whites with their wives and twenty
one of the natives of Otaheite, the whole under the command
of Mr. C , the rest having been left at Otaheite where
Mr. C justly believed the visit of a ship of war would
soon be made. They soon found out the tea root and from it
made rum, and to that may be attributed all the loss of life
and misfortunes felt during the first nine years of their inhabit-
ing this spot. A fatal quarrel between the natives and the
whites at last ended in the death of all the blacks, the last of
176
which were sacrificed by their own wives for the security of the
remaining whites. Their poultry and hogs had greatly mul-
tiplied, for as yet they had never ventured a float beyond the
shores ; after having been sixteen years on the island, Adams
was the only remaining white man, and during the distur-
bance he also had received a musket ball through his shoulder,
the hole of which was, though cured, still deep when we
visited them.
His first care as he told me was to abolish the making of
rum, and his next bold effort to destroy the still ; he then
began to give to all who chose to attend to it, religious and
moral instruction, and by degrees succeeded so well that all
looked up to him as a father, and from old and young he bore
that name ; it was then that he ventured to communicate with
ships. An American whaler hove to off the island, having
noticed inhabitants on it ; the islanders ventured off, but the
first time Adams did not go, he remained on shore, as he said,
to observe the luck of his boys. They got from this ship a
great number of articles they stood in need of, after which no
vessel came near the island without being visited ; the boat
going was usually filled with poultry, yams, &c., and for these
they got such articles as the ship had to spare. Thus it
remained till the visit of Sir T. S , who so kindly exerted
himself in behalf of these people, that even now, when they
name him, they seldom do so without adding, " God bless him."
Some months after this visit an American ship hove to off
the island ; the second mate of her had so much disagreed
with his Captain, that he begged to be left on the island to
act as schoolmaster; even the Captain whom he supposed
his greatest enemy, said he was a steady intelligent youth.
Adams consented to his landing; he married one of their
females, and has fully supported the character given him, he
was there in J826, a respectable member of the little commu-
nity. There was also another white youth, who had belonged
to a South sea man, and from some real, or fancied ill usage
177
had left her, and getting on shore, stowed himself away among
the rocks ; search was made for him by his shipmates, but
all in vain, and they left the island under the impression that
he had perished, either by drowning, or off some precipice ;
as soon however as the ship was gone, he crept from his
hiding place, and as there was no opportunity of returning
him to his ship, they were obliged to make a virtue of neces-
sity, and receive him. Some time afterwards he married
Adams' daughter, but his conduct gave but little credit to
himself, and Adams in telling me about, him, said we have
been obliged to chastise him once or twice ; how this was
done I know not, and thought it a question too delicate to be
asked. At the time of our visit, there were sixty-three souls
on the island ; Adams was getting old, but healthy and strong ;
from them we got several bottles of rum, which had been made
years, and which were thought of a superior quality. Want
of water obliged us to quit them ; having taken the observatory
on board the ship, we bade adieu, I may say a painful adieu,
to these friendly people ; for their kind manners, and truly
interesting conduct had rendered them beloved by all, add to
which I had for nineteen days been living on the fat of the
land, and now had to return to former allowance and priva-
tions. On the fourth day from leaving Pitcairn's we made
land, the Crescent, and shortly after the rest of the islands
known as Gambler's groupe ; this island is long, low and rocky
in form Like a crescent. The natives came off in great numbers
on rafts or catamarans ; no persuasion could induce them to
come on board, or even alongside, but they lay to while our
boats went to their rafts ; of all those addicted to theft that
we had met, these were the worst, nothing seemed too hot or
too heavy for them ; at last one of them unshipped the gig's
rudder, and on being prevented by one of the crew, made a
tremendous blow at him with a club, which missing his head
struck his shoulder ; the man irritated with the blow, and the
pain from it, without any orders, took his boat's musket, and
178
having taken deliberate aim, struck the man in the shoulder ;
the man dropped, and was instantly picked up by his com-
panions, who immediately disappeared, and no persuasion
could induce them to come back again ; the boats were hoisted
up, sail made on the ship. At 5, P. M., the anchor was let
go in a cove, abreast of a beautiful run of water ; the ship had
not been long at an anchor, when leave was given to fish ;
the lines were soon overboard, and some very fine rock fish
were caught; there were also some very large coral trees
brought up from the bottom, some of them measured five feet
eight inches in height ; none of the natives came off, although
they were very numerous on the shore. Early on Sunday
morning a great number of them came alongside, some swim-
ming, others on rafts ; without shewing the slightest alarm
they came up the side, and by signs and gestures endeavoured
to entice us on shore. On coming up the side, the first man
who met their eye, they went up to, and touching noses pro-
nounced the word modow ; they were a particularly large race
of men, like the Eastern Islanders, tatooed nearly ah 1 over the
body, no part of the back being left, except a cross of about
two inches in breadth, extending across and up and down the
back to the waist, but most of them inclined towards the
left shoulder; they were in a perfect state of nature, not
having the slightest covering, one of them thought that my
shoes formed a part of my body, for on my pulling them off,
he examined them for some minutes, and then touched my
feet ; they did not betray that curiosity or wonder which from
such people might have been expected, but like their neigh-
bours of the Crescent, they were dreadfully addicted to theft,
and so ignorant that they attempted to lift the carronades,
and draw the ringbolts out of the deck. A small portion of
our food was offered them, but nothing could induce them to
taste it ; the most powerful attractions we had, were the two
dogs. The Captain had a small one of which he was very
fond ; one of the natives seeing him on the ouarter deck took
179
him up, put him under his arm, and was deliberately walking
down the side with him, when Nep the Newfoundland dog
seeing the fate his companion and protege was likely to meet
with, flew at the man, and placing one of his paws on each
shoulder, laid him on his back just inside the gangway, and
by putting his teeth close to his nose, very soon induced him
to release Rio ; Nep then let him go, and in one moment
the man was overboard in the water, followed by his com-
panions, who all went on shore, none daring to return. After
breakfast being so short of water, and a beautiful run not one
cable's length from us, the boats were filled with empty casks,
and sent under command of the barge to land and fill with
water ; before we landed we observed the natives collecting in
great numbers on the edge of the hill, down which the water
flowed, but supposing curiosity their only motive, no notice
was taken of it. To land the casks was a work of time, for a
heavy surf ran on the beach, which being composed of dry
coral, cut our feet and delayed us greatly; the last cask
was scarcely on shore when a shower of stones, hurled from
slings fell into the boats, and wounded four men very severely.
An immediate retreat was ordered, the casks left on shore, and
the boats came off; such was our situation that water must
be had, our last tank was then in broach, the sun shining
with desperate fury right over our heads, and our allowance
of water but very small. One gun single shotted was fired
over their heads to see if that would disperse them, but was
useless ; it astonished them no doubt, but had no other good
effect ; another was tried with no better success. A boat was
again dispatched to see if they would oppose her landing, but
scarce had she reached the edge of the surf, when a whole
volley of stones drove her in haste back to the ship.
As soon as this w r as observed, a small hawser was got out
on the quarter, as a spring on the cable, and the ship's broad-
side thus brought to bear ; the barge was ordered on shore to
second our fire, then and not till then did the Captain give the
180
order to fire, and if any impartial reader will for one moment
consider our situation, and the sufferings before us if we got
no water, he will at once feel the conviction that the loss of
human life which followed, was caused and fully justified by
dire necessity. From the length of time I had the pleasure
of serving under Captain , had there been in his charac-
ter the slightest inclination to cruelty or tyranny, I must have
known or seen instances of it, but his every word and action
were kind, as far as consistent with the very arduous duty he
had to perform ; many lives were lost, and it was not till the
wad (they were all junk wads in those days) from the bargees
carronade set fire to the brushwood that grew round the place,
and thus left them entirely exposed to our view, that they flew
in all directions, leaving us in possession of that blessing, a
run of fresh water. We had abundance to drink, to wash our
clothes, and the additional luxury of spruce beer, which while
water could be got was issued at one quart per man, per diem ;
those boats which could be spared were employed in surveying
the other parts of the island, but seldom landed as fires were
made at nights, no doubt as signals to the other islands. One
quarter watch under arms was kept all night, and in the day
a strict look out was kept on all their motions. Round the
point of the cove in which the ship then lay, was, as we were
informed by our boats, a large native village, where it was
supposed some noted Chief resided. The Captain desirous of
making friends with the natives, took as many men as could
be spared from the ship well armed, and pulled round the
point ; no one was visible, all seemed quiet ; we landed with-
out any obstruction, and walked quietly up to the village,
which was composed of about sixty houses. That which we
supposed the Chief's was much larger than the rest, and to
that the officers directed their steps ; it was a large shed
open to the Southward, a platform at the inner end of it on
which sat an aged man, with a cap made of feathers of
various colours. On our approach the old man rose, and
181
began a long melancholy speech, in which we supposed by his
laying frequently his head on one side, that it related to the
late unfortunate loss of life. Beads and knives were offered
him, he took all with perfect indifference, and on the Captain's
making signs that he wished for his cap, he immediately took
it off, and gave it to him, for which he got a hatchet.
The man stationed to look out now ran up and said that
the natives were assembling in great numbers on the hill above
us, it was therefore thought advisable to retreat as quick as
possible. Before quitting the house, Captain touched
noses with the old Chief; on our way down, Mr. W was
separated from our party and stripped nearly naked. Arrived
at the sandy beach on which we had first landed, a halt was
ordered, the natives were very numerous, but aware something
in the fire-arms was destructive, they kept at a respectful dis-
tance. A white flag was attached to the knife of one of the
rifles in token of friendship, and the rifle itself stuck up-
right in some stones between both parties ; in a few moments
one of the natives separated from the rest and commenced a
plaintive tale, frequently pointing to his shoulders, which we
understood related to some one who had either been killed
or wounded. He appeared in his speech to work himself up
to a complete phrenzy, for he made one spring, seized the rifle,
and in one moment was off up the hill, followed by his com-
panions ; there as if in derision they placed the rifle, walked
round it, and talked to it, but in the height of their glee some-
thing took place to alarm them, for they all at once flew in
all directions, leaving the rifle to its right owners. Our
barge had this day been filling her own casks with water, and
by some neglect one of her barricoes had been left on shore ;
shortly after sunrise next morning one of the natives was
observed stealing quietly along the beach, and passed abreast
of the ship, looking cautiously round him, no one thought of
his object, but we soon saw him take up the barricoes and
walk back. A little before he got abreast the ship, the Captain.
182
ordered me to clear away one of the long guns forward and
send a shot as close to him as possible without killing the
man ; the shot struck the coral beach only three or four yards
from him, and covered him with sand and dust ; to see the
poor fellow drop his load and run up the hill was truly
laughable. During our stay here nothing eatable was procured,
we got a good supply of water and that was all ; having heard
of the good living that awaited us at Otaheite, we were all
anxious to get there, anticipating comforts of all kinds. About
the middle of February, we made the land ; Osnaburgh, a
high island more resembling Mount Stromboli than any
thing I had ever before seen, and next day Chain Island hove
in sight. On the first view of it Tuanii and his wife did not
recognise it, but when once the loved spot of their birth became
known to them, it is impossible to describe their raptures ;
there they again beheld the spot where dwelt a friend or parent
dear. In this moment of delight they did not forget the debt
of gratitude they owed to Captain , for it beamed from
their eyes and showed itself in a thousand little ways ; when
the ship was rounded to they both went down the side with
streaming eyes. March 1st, 1826, we got sight of Otaheite;
owing to the calm that had prevailed all day, it was late at
night before we got inside the reef which surrounds the island,
and which forms all of its harbours. The boats of several
South Sea men were sent out to tow us in, and Capt. C
the British Consul came on board and was saluted according
to his rank ; the ship was secured with one of her bowers off,
and a stream chain fast to a tree astern, and thus she lay
comfortable. A great many canoes came off and the natives
mixed among us, each of them addressed some seaman on
whom he placed his fancy " you my frieny," will you be my
friend ; if the person thus addressed answered yes, the Otaheite
repeated his name and endeavoured to repeat his friend's, but
fearful of not knowing him again he tied something round
his wrist or finger by which he might again distinguish him.
183
Many of our men observing their friends in search of them,
took off the badge and thus for once or twice puzzled them ;
but this did not last long, the features became known and the
badge useless. The man who thus voluntarily became my
friend, was a fine stout well made man of about thirty years
old, his name Ou-a-ba-da ; none of us at first knew the value
of their friendship, but we very soon found it out. The first
morning after this contract of friendship had been formed, I
was surprised to see him alongside in his little canoe ; I went
down the side when he gave me a cocoa-nut leaf basket, in
which was a fowl baked under ground, several fine oranges,
pine-apples, and a fine branch of bananas, and as a last token
of the power of his friendship a piece of tappa cloth with
about a hundred very handsome small shells, giving me to
understand that next day he would bring me a pig ; and in
this he kept his word, for early next morning I saw my worthy
friend laying off, and on my looking through the port he saw
me and held up the promised pig ; the inside was filled with
sweet potatoes, and from the mode of baking it none of the
gravy is lost ; it is tender and delightful. I was not singular
in my friend, all that chose it had friends who like mine
supplied all their wants, so that the ship's allowance of provi-
sions was but little cared for ; could these supplies have kept, we
might have preserved abundance of provisions, but the climate
is unsuited to the preservation of meat ; no bread was baked,
or flour served out during our stay at Otaheite, which was six
weeks and three days. After having been here about three
weeks I gave my friend, who had still kept up his daily sup-
plies, a half worn white shirt, worth not more than a couple of
shillings at most, with which he was delighted, and kissed my
hand in token of double friendship. Next day being the sab-
bath I obtained leave, and with another of my shipmates went
to one of the chapels ; it was really pleasing to see with what
respect and true devotion the sabbath is kept here. Any
who can procure a white shirt think it the ne plus ultra of
184
dress; but in this numerous group there were to be seen dresses
of all kinds from the maro to the complete suit of white. It
was not uncommon to see an Otaheitan going towards his
chapel with a large flushing coat on, and not another particle
of dress. I met my friend walking to chapel with my fine
white linen, which having been mangled in England showed
a beautiful gloss ; his appearance bespoke the pride he felt.
Otaheite is without exception the finest island in the
Pacific ; it may be called a natural garden where every thing
grows without culture, and the paradise of this vast ocean.
One cannot err in landing on any part of it, walk half a
cable's length from your boat, there overhangs your head,
oranges, pine apples, bread fruit, and a little below that,
the small banana so superior to all others. Otaheite boasts
two sorts of bananas, both delicious in their kind, yams,
cocoa-nuts, and many other fruits are plenty. The bread
fruit is an excellent vegetable, a good substitute for bread,
for dinner or supper, though I do not like it so well for break-
fast ; it is not eatable raw, but the cooking of it is expeditious.
Some of the natives contracted with Mr M , the Purser to
supply it hot to all hands three times a day, for which they re-
ceived a certain quantity of duck, it was laid down in aheap as
cut from the tree ; a fire of dry wood was made, and forced into a
blaze, when at its highest the fruit is thrown into the centre of it,
and there it remains until the person attending it observes a
crack in the skin ; it is then rolled out of the fire, and with two
pieces of stick while hot, the skin is taken off in two pieces.
The fruit is then cut into four parts, from each of which the
pulp is cut out and the good part put into small baskets made
for the purpose, and thus sent on board. Corn has been
planted at Otaheite, but the soil is either too rich or the climate
too hot, as it runs up without coming to perfection. Sugar
cane grows particularly good ; a Mr. Bignell had the year
before cut down his first crop of canes, and sent in that one
year twenty-six hogsheads to Sydney. Rum making is en-
185
tirely prohibited on the island, and if they will only continue
the happy decree, they will save this favoured isle from thous-
ands of vices and sorrows which invariably follow in its
train. Methinks I hear my reader exclaim ; what, a tar of the
old school argue against grog ! but know reader that the man
who writes these lines would not drink one glass of ardent
spirits though the empty glass were to be given him full of
sovereigns. The many punishments I saw inflicted on my
first joining the service, for crimes committed in drunkenness,
induced me to say, that I never while I breathe would taste
spirits, and thousands of circumstances have tended to con-
firm my resolution ; years in great numbers have gone since
the thread of reflection has been broken by drinking ardent
spirits, and I think I may safely say, it will please God to
continue so. In cold climates where the snow penetrates
through the thickest boots, and exposed to almost constant
wet, I have found great benefit from the outward application
of a very small quantity of spirits to the legs, by gently rubbing
it in, and especially when going on discovery, where there
was much ice, when my boots were wet and stockings damp,
I took them off and with a table spoon full of spirits rubbed
my legs very slowly until it sunk well into the pores of the
skin, then as quickly as possible put my stockings and boots
on ; for a few moments this produced an itching burning pain,
but it soon turned into a general warmth, which by a slight
exertion lasted for hours ; while the same quantity taken in-
wardly, especially when on short allowance, (which is almost
always the case in these voyages) produced a short excitement
which ended in langour, and knawing pains.
Nearly all the Island is subject to the control of the Mis-
sionaries, who have most powerfully contributed to the civili-
zation of it. A sect still remains called Tuti ourii, or black-
guards, who do all in their power to curb the improvement
of the others, but their number is comparatively few, and the
186
Chiefs keep them well down. Mr. C purchased from one
of the Chiefs, one of their former Gods, to whom he said some
hundreds of victims had been sacrificed, and that same
wooden image to whom lives had been offered, was sold
for a knife. It is then, and it must be considered by every
feeling man, a happy day when Missionary labours spread
gospel light over this benighted part of the world, and no
place where Missionary exertions have been used, reflects more
credit than Otaheite. Not far from the place where the ship
lay^ was a chapel, the largest on the island ; it was built of
light materials, but such as they were, were the free offering
of the natives, and many of those who could not work, sent
presents of wood, and cocoa-nut oil towards the building.
In this chapel, Mr. P , (a preacher who had been above
thirty years on the island) preaches three times every Sunday ;
I once went with three of my shipmates to hear him, and at
that very moment not less than two thousand souls were
under that roof; to the Rev. Mr. P , I was indebted for
forwarding the only letter that at that time left the ship.
Hogs are plentiful, and from their good feeding, grow to an
enormous size ; little notice is taken of them, and they may
be said to run wild, but as every family has its own mark, no
one encroaches on his neighbour .
During our stay here all the sick were sent on shore for the
benefit of their health, and any of them who were convalescent
or could do any thing, were employed in making and prepar-
ing lim.e juice for ship's use from the vast quantities of limes
that grow wild. Among the sick on shore was a man named
E so subject to fits that scarcely a month passed without
his having them, and sometimes two or three in a day, so that
the man, however willing he might be, was literally useless, and
in his fits he was a most horrid swearer and drunkard, indeed
guilty of every thing bad in his moments of drunkenness. It
so happened on Sunday afternoon that myself and about twenty
more went on shore, the first place we all directed our steps
187
was to the house used as an hospital, each had a messmate or
friend to enquire after ; when I got to the house the sick were
walking about in front of it j E was sitting about ten yards
from the door on the stump of a tree, and an immense overgrown
hog was feeding near him, I can fancy it now before me, it was
all black, with tusks turning up on each side of its mouth ; just
at that moment one of his fits came on ; my attention was
drawn to it by some one saying " there he goes, he is off/' I
turned round and saw him fall close alongside this monstrous
hog, who remained immoveable, steadily gazing at the man for
several minutes, at last its eyes gradually closed, and taking
a complete round turn it fell, kicked a little, and died. Shortly
after the man came to, and all the lads said he would be
troubled with no more fits, for the pig had carried them all
away ; months passed and no fits coming, all hands believed
him cured, but they returned again with redoubled force, since
which he died from falling out of a window when in one of them.
A complete refit of the ship took place, the holds were
cleared out, whitewashed, ship painted, abundance of fresh
provisions and vegetables were served out, and although we
had been so long on salt provisions only one decided case of
scurvy appeared ; our cooper was busily employed in salting
pork ; owing to the heat of the climate it was a difficult task,
but by great attention it was attended with success. Before
the ship was taken outside the reef, the young King, accom-
panied by his mother, came on board, he was then about ten
years of age ; great preparations had been made b/ us for
his reception. On his arrival on board, he was saluted with
a certain number of guns ; after having visite4 every part of
the ship he went into the cabin to dinner with his mother,
accompanied by such of their suite as were allowed, according
to the etiquette of the country, to be in their company. The
Queen Dowager was I think the largest and the fattest woman
I ever saw, she was brought down to our cutter in a sort of
N2
188
four wheel cart,, drawn or rather impelled by men, and actually
brought the cutter down two streaks ; after dinner, of which
she partook freely, she came on deck, and seeing one of her
war canoes alongside that had some fresh fish in it, ordered
one of the men to bring her one up, which she eat raw, first
taking its head in one hand, and the tail in the other, and
applying her teeth to the lower part of the back fin, dragged
it out with all its attendant small bones, and having thrown it
overboard, eat the rest heartily ; such is the force of habit,
which even luxury and civilization cannot conquer. Next after-
noon two war canoes came alongside with presents for the
ship's company ; they were entirely filled with fruit, yams and
nine large hogs.
On the day previous to our sailing, a grand feast was given
on shore for the entertainment of officers and men ; in order
to please the natives, the drummer and fifer were sent on
shore, arid a quantity of fire works, a grand fire wheel, sky
and line rockets, Roman candles, &c., were set up ready for
the evening. The first part of the amusements, was what was
even then nearly abolished, dancing girls, which as they were
almost naked, was disgusting. Next was a spear dancer ; two
men entered the ring, each laying his spear before him, and
keeping his eye fixed on his antagonist, at the same time
jumping over his spear, his right hand well down ready to
grasp it at the slightest movement of the other ; at the same
time working himself up to such a degree of fury, that it
seemed dangerous to trust him with his weapon, every nerve in
his body seemed agitated ; at last each took his spear, bran-
dished it, pointed at his adversary, crossed and recrossed from
one side to the other, and at last ended from complete fatigue.
From one of the natives who spoke a little English, I learnt
that these men have been known to work themselves into such
a state of phrenzy, that they have thrown their spears among
the assembled crowd, and sacrificed a number of lives. At
189
the end, the attention of the natives was called to witness
the fireworks; the line rockets were most admired from
their dipping under water,, and again rising to throw out a
blast of fire, and again dip. Presents of various kinds were
given to the Royal family, among which was an elegant
fowling piece, said to have cost seventy five guineas in
England. Next morning the ship was got outside the reefs,
and this day the seamen received the last visits of their friends
on board the ship ; I got my friend Ou-a-ba-da on board,
and again made him a present of another of my white shirts,
and about three feet of small brass wire chain, to the bite of
which hung a small penny medal of King George III. I
do not think any one thing on earth could give him so much
pleasure, his looks expressed his gratitude ; I saw him go
up the hatchway, and down the side with unusual haste, and
paddle to the shore ; but my wonder ceased when I saw him
coming back, and calling for me, presented me a quantity
of taro, an excellent vegetable, a few shells and a small pig, but
what was of more value two round balls of arrow root, which
weighed above sixteen pounds, and greatly aided our short
allowance some weeks afterwards ; except the Bermudian, I
think the Otaheitan arrow root is the best. About the 23rd,
we left the Island, the kind natives following us, until
their safety obliged them to leave us; I verily believe no
one had reason to regret our visit to the island. Their canoes
like the others of the South Pacific are so very narrow, that
it is even difficult to sit in them, but like those of other islands
they have two outriggers, and a fore and aft piece which effec-
tually prevents them from upsetting ; they will even at times
carry a small sail, the fore and aft piece being as long as the
canoe, and parallel to the keel, serves on either tack. Our
passage from Otaheite to the Sandwich Islands was very
long, as there were so many Islands to be surveyed on our
way; nothing material occurred during this long passage,
190
which was also performed by our barge. An almost open
boat under the master and ten men, sailing along the beau-
tiful Pacific is really delightful, particularly during the still
hours of a middle watch ; it is said that no part of the world
presents so much beauty as the South sea, and I verily
believe it.
CHAPTER XVII,
SANDWICH ISLANDS, KAMTSCHATKA MANNERS AND
IMPROVEMENTS.
EARLY in May the ship anchored off Dimond head, outside
the reefs of Whahoo, which like the last place we visited, was
surrounded with coral reefs; as it was not likely we should
stay long here, the ship remained outside the reef; here we
found lying several English and American Whalers, and an
American Northwestman outward bound. The town consists
of about three hundred houses neatly built, partly of stone,
and the upper part of the sides and roofs thickly thatched with
cocoa nut leaves. The house in which the young King resides
is built entirely of wood, is well furnished after the English
manner, and upon the whole kept in very good order; the
English and American Consuls have also very good houses ;
there are in this small town not less than sixteen public houses,
kept by English and American settlers, who have at different
times left ships ; one of these houses in particular surprises the
stranger, and almost makes him fancy himself in London, for
in it you see mahogany tables, flint glass decanters, and
tumblers, as also cane bottomed chairs ; this is called the
London Tavern, and in another or two are billiard tables ;
there are also two stores, one kept by an American, and the
other by an Englishman, from which may be purchased all
192
kinds of English and Chinese goods ; and spirits, ales, porter,
&c. ; one of the worst effects of civilization is that females in
great numbers flock to the ships. It was by no means un-
common of an evening to count two women to one man about
our deck ; they usually came off in one of our boats or their
canoes, but in the morning they all jumped overboard and
swam on shore without betraying the least alarm at the nume-
rous sharks swimming about the ship ; many of them were
children. That they have made great progress in civilization
is beyond a doubt, but vice has gone on with equally rapid
strides, nor can the efforts of the missionaries restrain them.
The island is far better fortified than might be supposed ; on
the right of the landing place is a very good battery, contain-
ing about twenty pieces of brass ordnance under the charge
of an Englishman who has been settled there many years ;
there are none of them English, ah 1 foreign ; one of them a
twenty-four pounder highly ornamented, I supposed French,
for just before the vent patch was raised in letters Le diver-
tissant. On the top of the highest hill on the island and which
commands the town and a clear view of distant objects at sea,
is erected a signal station, and a battery of, I was told thirteen
guns ; the natives were at first sadly puzzled to get their guns
up, but some English men put them in the way of it by forming
a shoe to fit the gun, out of one of the canoes, and thus it became
comparatively easy. On this as well as the other islands
under the dominion of this king the national flag is five blue and
red stripes, and a sort of an union in the upper corner next
the mast. There is a passable market here where vegetables,
fruits, hogs, and goats, may at times be purchased, with now
and then a few dogs, which by the natives are deemed a great
luxury ; but those dogs which are destined for food are brought
up and fed with great attention and not allowed to run about.
Upon many occasions the market is taboed and during that
taboe not a thing comes in for sale however it may be wanted.
The power of the chiefs is so great that whatever they taboe
193
is sacred ; if a Chief takes a fancy to any female he places the
taboe on her, and from that moment for a native to look on her
becomes a crime and probably endangers his life.
On our first visit the King was about sixteen years of age,
a fine youth not so dark as might be expected, Tamaahmaah
the second. When in undress he wore a coat exactly resem-
bling the uniform of a midshipman in our service, and but for
want of the white patch might have been taken for one ; on
his button was his own name with the crown in the center.
When dressed in full he wore the uniform of a General of
Artillery, and was saluted according to his rank. He had
there several vessels, one of them a beautiful brig of upwards
of three hundred tons, which moimted twenty guns, comman-
ded by an American named Meek, and manned by natives ;
he had also about one hundred and fifty of his natives dressed
in grey uniform with red cuffs and collars, and armed with
long American muskets. On our second visit to this place
application was made to the Captain, by the young King, for
the aid of our sergeant to drill his troops, which was granted,
and for the first four days the man gave such satisfaction that
the young King told him if he would go home and procure
his discharge and return to Whahoo, his passage out should be
paid, and the King would give him one thousand acres of land
and make him a Major over his troops with a regular salary.
To a man like that, risen from a plough boy, what an offer ;
but drink, that curse to human hopes, blasted his prospects,
and for several days he came off so excessively drunk that the
King had to beg he might not again be permitted ; thus he for-
feited his hopes and lost the Captain's good opinion.
While we remained here a small vessel was sent from
Owhyee to announce the death of the head Chief of the island
Caramaca Cooe ; according to custom the girls had gone on
shore that morning, and in the evening we were surprised to
see them all come on board with one tooth out in front, which
we found out was a customary mark of respect to the deceased
194
Chief; to pne of the women I shewed that I had lost three of
my jaw teeth, when she clapped her hands in astonishment,
exclaiming mi-tie, (( so young, and lost so many chiefs." Before
our departure as many provisions of all kinds as could be got,
were procured, firewood and water complete, and as a present
the King sent forty small black hogs, and a quantity of food
for them. From many ships that had lately touched at the
island, a great number of men of bad character had been dis-
charged, and were frequently troublesome to the people, in
consequence of which the head Chief requested that they might
be taken off the island ; four of them were taken on board
the ship, the rest passed as American subjects, and for the
present escaped, but were taken off by the American schooner
Dolphin.
May 18th, left Whahoo, and shaped our course to Kamt-
schatka ; during the passage a small wound that I received in
my foot, at Gambler's, had broken out and the foot and leg
swelled to such an alarming degree, that it was feared it
must have been amputated, but by the time we got to land,
the kind attention of Doctor C reduced it, and the day
we entered Kamtschatka, I was again at duty. Early in July,
we let go our bower in the Bay of Pietro Palowski, a fine bay
and a Russian settlement for convicts, who are sent over land
for the double purpose of punishment, and trading with the
natives of Kamtschatka during the winter months for furs.
The town of Pietro Palowski, or Peter and Paul, contains
about three hundred houses and two churches ; the houses are
very comfortable, built with logs of birch, the ends well let
into each other, and caulked with dry moss which renders
them wind and air tight : each house consists of four rooms ;
in the middle of the house is a square brick building, three
sides of which contains a fire place, the fourth is an oven.
The tops of the houses are mostly paid over with red ochre
and tar, which, from the snow on the top of the adjacent
hills gives them a pleasing look : tjheir windows are few, and
195
those are small and covered with the inside gut of the sea horse,
which, from its transparency and power to resist wet, serves
the purpose well ; the climate being so very cold produces
but little, but in the gardens belonging to the Governor and
Pastors, I observed a few carrots and cabbages growing. In
the garden belonging to the Governor, is a monument to the
memory of Captain Clark, the circumnavigator, and kept in
very good order ; on the top of it is a ship which acts as a
vane. When the snow clears away, wild celery abounds under
it ; there is also a sort of wild garlic among the pasture, which
the cattle eat, and at first to a stranger gives the meat an
unpleasant taste, but that is soon overcome, when the taste of
the meat becomes more pleasing.
The Russian settlers at Kamtschatka are friendly and hos-
pitable to a degree ; it is difficult to pass the house without
being called in to eat, and under present circumstances their
hospitality was 'particularly acceptable. If at any time we
met a Russian, however low his rank, as he approached, his
hand went up to his cap, and drosti brah (I greet ye well) was
his salutation ; if we stopped, the snuff box came out, and
after taking a pinch himself, he presented it to us ; they take
their snuff by putting it between the lower lip and the gum,
and there it remains for hours. Among the convicts are one
Englishman and an American; this Englishman was sent
there some years ago, as a part of his punishment he had the
gristle taken from his nose, which now hangs down very much
upon his upper lip ; when out he usually keeps it forced to
its former shape, with a piece of pasteboard.
The American had married a daughter of one of the settlers,
and lived at the small village of Awatchka, a few miles from
Pietro Palowski. Each of the settlers, as they call themselves,
has from twenty to thirty dogs of the fox breed, which though
small, are very strong ; those intended for the sleigh are paired,
having a strip of wood between their two collars, so that they
cannot bite each other, and when not at work tfcey are made
196
fast to small poles stuck in the ground, at such a distance that
no two pairs can touch each other ; when they are at work,
each dog is allowed two dried salmon per day, but when idle
only one and half. The salmon fishery commences about the
middle of July, at which time men, women, and children are
employed at the fishery ; those whose youth will not admit of
their drawing at the line, are employed carrying the fish up
the beach feady for splitting. The salmon are split down the
back, laid on stages made of boughs to admit of a free circu-
tion of air to dry it for winter food for dogs, some are used
for the families also. Each family has its own net, and during
the fishery season even the pastors assist, and when the fish
are become quite hard they are stowed in open air houses for
winter. Our first visit w?s very unfortunate, for when fish,
or any thing else, would have been acceptable we could get
none, for the season was so late that the Russians themselves
doubted whether the fish would come in at all. On our second
visit, although at all times acceptable, when we did not so
much need it, fish was abundant ; I particularly recollect
while I was once hauling the seine, for that was invariably my
job, there was on each side of us a party of Russians drawing
their seine ; our first haul was abundant ; hi our seine was
one hundred and thirty nine very fine salmon, and a vast
quantity of herrings ; as the first haul of the Russians came
on shore, a woman came down to assist in taking the fish out
of the seine, she had at her breast an Infant of about nine
months, which she laid on the dry sea weed, with which the
place was strewed and commenced her work ; in the mean-
time the little fellow losing the breast began to fret, the woman
paid no attention to it for sometime until its cries becoming
piercing, she ran down to the net, and taking therefrom a
small salmon, cut its head off, and having washed the head,
divided it into four parts, wiped part dry in her apron, and
putting that piece into the little hands of the babe, he com-
menced sucking away at it with as much delight as one of our
is?
European children would do at a piece of sugar-candy, so
much for habit and nature ; nor did the little creature fret or
cry while I remained there, which was nearly two hours. So
very kind were the settlers that it was no uncommon thing to
see them come down to our boats with one of their large rusk
loaves, and cutting it into slices served them out as far as it
would go. All their bread is made of rye flour, which when
new is very good.
The last Sunday we lay there it cleared up in the afternoon
after a rainy day ; some observations were to be made from
the foot of the hill on which the light beacon was standing ;
the cutter was ordered to to be manned, and Mr. E
landed with us. As I was not wanted for sometime I as-
cended the hill towards the light beacon, accompanied by
several of the boat's crew ; at the top of the hill was a house, at
the door of which lay several of the finest fish I had seen
that season. By signs and words we made the two men who
were there sensible that we wished to purchase the fish, and
offered a Spanish dollar for it, the men took the offered
money, put the frying pan on the fire and very soon had it full
of fine fish ; the rest of the men came up, and just as we were
sitting down to a comfortable meal of fried salmon, rusk, and
some wild birds' eggs, the Master, Mr. E , a man univer-
sally respected by all hands, came up and looking round him,
" hollo," said he, " what do you call this 1" he was offered to
partake of our fare and willingly accepted, and for my part
I scarce can tell when I made a more comfortable meal. It
must be observed that provisions were not then abundant, nor
is that strict line of distance to be preserved int hose ships which
is kept up in regular commissioned ships. Some days after
that while surveying at a distance from the ship, I think about
fourteen miles, there was about a mile and a half from the spot
where the boat lay, a long low point, from which the officer
wished to take observations. I was ordered to walk round the
beach and stick a pole up at the point with a flag at the
198
I went away taking with me only a small hatchet very sharp,
and which was kept in the boat for that purpose. The beach,
I observed as I walked along was composed of large blue
stones, and about ten or fifteen yards from the water's edge
was bounded with large birch trees and small brushwood. I
had completed my work and was returning back towards the
boat pensive and swinging the hatchet about, when happening
to look upward, my eye caught sight of a large she bear and
cubs, very little would then have knocked me down ; I cer-
tainly thought myself gone that time. Father of mercy
thought I come all this way from home to be eaten by a
Kamschatdale bear ; to run was hopeless ; the bear's legs were
far better than mine in the water or up a tree were equally
bad ; but while thus deliberating upon a subject equally dan-
gerous and delicate, the animal quietly walked into the wood
leaving me a clear road to follow ; and oh ! did I not run I
never stopped till I got to the boat and there with my hair
almost upright, and the big drops of perspiration chasing
each other down my face, I fancied myself safe. The officer
who had been spying at me nearly all the time was also much
alarmed, but seeing the danger over made a laugh of it, asking
me what the bear had said to me, it struck me to say that the
bear had told me never to obey such foolish orders again ; I
however, kept in, sensible I was addressing my superiors.
From Pietro Palowski we got two men who had been wrecked
on one of the islands of the Pacific, and in a Russian store-
ship had reached Kamtschatka, from whence we took them.
July 6th. the Emperor of Russia's birth day, above one hun-
dred guns were fired as salutes ; we also fired a royal salute.
That same evening weighed and made sail for Behring's Straits ;
on the sixth day we got inside the capes ; the entrance is formed
by Cape Prince of Wales and Cape Cruscrustern, both capes
beingimmersed in snow, gave no great hopes of getting far north.
About 17th, hove to off Behring's Island, famed as being
the residence of the unfortunate navigator of that name, and
199
where he met his untimely fate, a victim to the scurvy. The
remains of the houses where they came to their unfortunate end
are still visible, but innumerable foxes have taken possession
of the place, and burrowed deep under it ; even now the shore
is strewed with pieces of the wreck of their unlucky ship.
After a short stay, made sail, and about nine hove to off St.
Lawrence's Island, several bidairs of natives came off^ they
were the first we had seen, they did not betray any alarm,
and willingly traded for any thing we had ; they were stout
well-made men of a pleasing countenance, the face exceedingly
flat, of a deep olive colour ; their dress consisted of a skin frock
and breeches, and boots of the same which came up and strop-
ped round their waist and answered the double purpose of boots
and pockets, for all they get in barter, or any other way, they
put in them ; they seemed pleased with any thing given them.
Many of them had holes cut in their cheeks, through which a
piece of ivory in the shape of a double button is inserted ;
these holes are supposed to be cut when very young, for we
saw mere children with small incisions in their cheeks and a
light piece of wood put in to keep it from closing. The dress
of the females is much the same as the males, and the men
having no beards it is almost difficult to distinguish one sex
from the other. Their mode of salutation was by raising both
hands, joining them together over the head, and bringing them
gradually over the breast separating them almost at the knees.
Their boat or bidairs, as they are called, (but from whence
the name is taken I know not) are much in the shape of a
large whale boat, flat at bottom, composed of a strong frame
of light wood, over which is stretched very tight the skins of
sea horses, and from their being flat and light they draw but
little water, carry an immense weight, and paddle very fast ; I
have seen one of them with twenty-two people and not draw
quite one foot of water.
Having made as little delay as possible, made sail for Kot-
200
zebue sound ; about the 25th July anchored off a high rock
called the Uric Rock ; the sound is large, land locked and safe,
and would contain almost any number of ships. The earth in
the low lands was but then clear of snow, the hills everlastingly
covered ; scarce any thing grows here but a little birch stuff,
barely high enough to make brooms with ; a few wild straw-
berries are to be met with, and a vast number of partridge
berries were strewed around. Close to the water's edge were
several villages of the natives, constructed of rough skins and
uncomfortable ; few of them came near the ship and those that
did betrayed neither fear nor astonishment ; they were friendly
and used the same mode of salutation as those lower down.
As the time of Captain Franklin's visit was uncertain, if ever
it took place, the Captain ordered a cask of flour to be buried
as deep as possible on the top of the Uric Rocks, and some-
thing else was buried at the east end of Chamisso, with a
bottle containing directions ; I was sent to the top of the Uric
Rock to paint in large black letters upon the stone the bearing
and distance of the articles buried. The spot on which I
stood was a perpendicular cliff of such a height that I was
really afraid to look down, and the rock being so rotten made
it doubly dangerous ; I however accomplished my task and
left sufficient marks to attract notice. On the low rocks round
the foot of that on which I stood perched, were assembled
great numbers of hair seals, and at various parts of the sound
rein deer were browzing but shy and distant. From the mo-
ment of our entering Behring's Straits a superior rating became
vacant ; it was sometime before any one could form an idea on
whom the Captain would bestow it, but one afternoon as I
stood on the gangway, it being my watch, the Captain came
up and taking a turn or two on deck came towards me, and
having pulled a paper out of his side pocket, presented it to
me, saying here read this and follow the instructions it con-
tains ; your exertions and good conduct merit my esteem. To
201
a man who has a family however trifling the addition of pay
may be, it is welcome ; but this addition was given in a man-
ner so kind, so gentlemanly, that it was doubly pleasing.
During our stay we surveyed most parts of the Straits,
where ships might anchor, and about the last of July, sailed
to go upwards. The barge also having been victualled and
supplied with all that was likely to be useful, was sent a head
of the ship in order to penetrate as far up as possible, and in
the event of not seeing us again to rendezvous at Kotzebue
Sound; thus we parted company, the barge soon left us
behind, as we surveyed as we sailed upwards. August, I
think the 6th, date matters not, at 8, at night, the order was
given for the watch to turn in with their boots on, or in other
words not to undress, but to be ready at one moment's notice ;
the watch laid down without undressing, and being fatigued,
soon dropped off to sleep. When I say they were fatigued,
I must leave any seaman to judge of the fact, the watch
was spent as follows ; two hours at the wheel, or conn, one
hour at the lead, and the fourth hour at the gangway, fore-
yard-arm, or in the crow's nest at the mast head. Some
might escape a portion of this duty, but those were few, for
our numbers were very short ; but to return, our sleep was
not well half over when the shrill pipe of the boatswain re-
sounded in our ears, " all hands save ship/' Oh, the horrors
of such a dismal pipe ! none but those who heard it can tell ;
it was said that no such order had been given, and that the
Captain never knew any thing of it, indeed with such a mul-
tiplicity of duty on his mind, it would have been wonderful if
he could have attended to all. The ship had struck on a mud
bank, but it was with the most powerful exertions that she
was got off, nor was that accomplished till after two o'clock in
the morning ; our progress upwards was very slow, the irre-
gularity of the soundings made it impossible to carry much
sail ; the Strait was well clear of ice, at least there was none
in the middle, the edges alone were strewed with it. It was,
o
202
considering all things, not very unpleasant going upwards, for
as our progress was slow we had a fine view of the coast of
Asia on our left, and that of America on our right ; but the
Asiatic shore was more dangerous of approach than the other,
being more shallow water ; we frequently had the trawl over,
but not a vestige of any fish was to be seen. During the first
watches dredges were put over, and a great number of shells
were got up each time, but they were all dead shells, not a
fish in any of them, though some of them retained their gloss,
which was a clear proof that fish had been in them at no very
distant period. We passed by the Capes Lisburne and Mul-
grave with little delay, and for several days after had thick
weather and mists. August 12th, about 10, A.M. it cleared
away giving us a sight of the distant lands, and a full view
of Icy Cape, the extent of Captain Cook's voyage, which in
some of the books is described as a high bluff; to me it appeared
a low rocky point running into the sea. It was proposed
by the officers, that as it was the birth-day of His Majesty,
a royal salute should be fired upon it, and the swivels and
small guns were got into the boats after dinner ; but the
boats had but just shoved off from the ship, when it again
became thick, and to prevent danger a recall gun was fired ;
the boats were hoisted up, and sail made on the ship : for the
two ensuing days thick weather continued, and our progress
was slow.
15th, a fine clear open day ; deer having been seen grazing
inland, permission was given to some of the men to go on
shore, to attempt shooting some. At this time of year in
Behring's Straits, though the midst of summer the air is
keen, even in the day the Thermometer being at the freezing
point, and seldom above it, but at night it goes down to 26,
sometimes lower ; the sun just dips about half-past eleven,
and rises again before one, and the beautiful Aurora Borealis
fills up the intermediate space. I was among those who went
on shore> and had only walked an hour or two, when the
203
t)
weather which before had been beautifully clear, suddenly
became thick, and the snow fell fast ; the wind shifted, making
it dangerous to proceed or return. Mr. S , one of our
officers had kindly lent me a small French pocket compass,
but that was so powerfully affected, that it ceased to traverse.
I never during my life suffered so much as I did this night,,
and the next day, my mental anxiety was almost beyond
bearing ; my companions who thought but little, suffered less,
but for me I saw a protracted death in all its horrors among
snow, and which must inevitably have been the case had the
thick weather lasted ; fancy, powerful fancy, presented to my
view the fatal uncertainty of my family, deprived of a husband
and a father, and left at the mercy of the world. Sometimes
during the ensuing day, I almost fancied myself at home
with all that were dear to me, but the fairy web was soon
broken, and I as it were awoke to consciousness, with an aching
and despairing heart. During the night we felt a powerful
desire to sleep, but all succeeded in combating it, for we knew
well that to go to sleep was with a certainty of awaking no
more; for it is invariably the case that if persons oppressed with
cold, ever give way to sleep they lose their lives. Perhaps some
persons who may read this, may laugh at our fears as vain,
but had they been placed exactly as we were, with thick snow
and cold, and not the least appearance of its becoming clear,
and worse than all nothing to eat, they too would have
thought things hopeless ; however as in many other instances a
blessed and merciful providence rescued us all from our truly
perilous situation. During the day it cleared up, and gave
us a sight of the dear old B , in the offing. Oh, the
hopes, the joys of this moment ; for my part, reflection, which
constitutes man's superiority over the brute, had so absorbed
my faculties, that for a time I did not observe the favourable
change in the weather. Clouds appeared, the blue expanse
opened to our view, and gave us a hope of seeing ship and
shipmates again ; we very soon walked down to the beach,
02
204
and having a boat sent for us, soon got to the ship, with my
mind fully made up never to volunteer on any land expedition.
Let any one who reads these lines, pause for one moment
ere he undertakes a discovery voyage. In these dismal
regions where eternal snows cover the face of nature, where the
voice of soothing pity was never yet heard, or the foot of an
European ever before trod ; there, even there the indefatigable
Englishman has found his way, and after experiencing toils
and hardships almost unequalled, he returns to his native
country, and sometimes reaps that reward his exertions have
merited from his superiors, or if forgotten retires on a scanty
pension to support himself and a numerous family. August
26th, died P G , master at arms, a man who by all
on board was universally respected ; he had served as a marine
and had stood centinel over the Ex Admiral Parker the very
night before his execution ; an intelligent steady man, who
had given up a pension, again to face the toils of the voyage,
for the purpose of watching over the morals of his son, a youth
in the ship. It was a pleasure to converse with him, for his
memory was retentive and his education had been liberal ; he
left a widow and two young children to bemoan his loss. His
widow continued to draw his half pay until the ship returned
to the Brazils, and although she was much in arrears, the Lords
of the Admiralty did not suffer any part of his remaining pay
to be stopped, but in addition to that, provided a situation in
the Asylum at Greenwich and placed the children in the school;
the mother, grateful and happy, Jkept her place till death.
For several days the boats were employed in surveying
round the Cape, while the ship was in the offing. Villages of
natives were strewed along the shore ; like those below they
were friendly and willing to barter any thing but provisions,
but of these they were particularly careful, fearing as we sup-
posed the approach of winter. From one however we got
about three hundred weight of rein deer, which was equally-
issued to officers and men, and supplied two good meals to all ;
205
it was not, as Jack observed, distributed like prize money, for
all shared alike, and the only luxury that went abaft the main-
mast, was produced by the fowling pieces of the officers, which
tended much to make the ship's company satisfied with then* lot.
About eight miles above the Cape, as they were then re-
moving from the sea shore to their winter quarters, I had a
fine opportunity of seeing the inside of an Esquimaux dwelling,
or winter house ; I think few in the ship saw one, for few, if
any, took the trouble to go so far from the boat. There were
I should say, from fifteen to twenty almost forming a square,
but I only had time to go into one, and that I measured, it
was eight feet from side to side, about six and a half deep.
From side to side were placed rafters, much the same as the
roof of an English house, but with less elevation at the top ;
across these again were other pieces of scantling both to
strengthen the other and secure them ; in the middle of the
top was a square hole with a frame to it, much like the com-
bings of a hatchway. On the top of the rafters were laid the
hides of the sea horse, and over that, where it could be got,
was turf; but every where snow in abundance, so that a
stranger might in winter walk over the whole villages and
notice only a rising here and there. The square part at the
top was covered with a double hide and served for the purpose
of going in and out or letting the smoke out if required : the
stiff hide acted as a spring, for, as the Equimaux head
vanished under, it was closed and perfectly secure, the snow
on it adding to its weight-? so much for the outside. The
inside, on the ground, was thickly strewed with moss ; at the
sides and ends were seats left in the earth fourteen inches
broad, which were also covered with moss over which were laid
rein deer skins; the sides were also lined with rein deer
skins, which, from the thickness of the hair, are very warm.
From the centre of the roof was suspended a stone, like a fry-
ing-pan in shape with three holes, to which were fastened three
thongs of sea horse hide, by which it was suspended. In this
206
stone was put a piece of whale's blubber, in the middle of
which a hole was cut ; in this hole a piece of moss was put
and set fire to, which gave a beautiful bright shining light,
superior to gas, and without smoke, which from its closeness,
warmed the house. At the sides were hung spears, bows and
arrows, implements of fishing or household use. On one of
the sides of the house was a square hole cut, in which the in-
habitants stowed their winter supply of food as well for them-
selves as for their dogs. In one corner I observed a sort of
tunnel which I supposed led to other houses, so that if my
judgement be right they may visit each other without going
into the open air ; other houses may differ, I saw no more of
them. Taking all into consideration the Esquimaux may
spend his long polar winters comfortably enough, for if he is
deprived of the luxuries of civilized nations, he knows them
not; they are trustworthy, mild and kind, and unlike the
natives of the Pacific ; honest, not the least attempt to defraud
having been discovered during our dealings with them. I
have noticed that some of the men in dealing with them had
paid for some article and not got it from the hurry of the mo-
ment or pressure of boats, but it was invariably handed up
afterwards.
August 21st, weighed, but such was the nature of the ground,
that it took every purchase we could muster to start the
anchor. Northward of Ivy Cape, the Strait was still about
fourteen miles broad and the depth from 13 J to 22 fathoms,
that is to say not closing the shore too much, and but very
little ice to be seen ; the ship still going to the Northward
surveying as she went. Late in August, as we stood in one
afternoon, we observed two trees across each other, much like
a St. Andrew's cross ; supposing it might be Opt. Franklin's
party, a boat was immediately dispatched to see what it was,
but on landing it was found to be a village of natives who had
not yet gone to winter houses ; there were about thirty huts,
among which I observed' one smaller than the rest, and on
207 ,
approaching it I found it occupied by a female ; she was very
aged, her hair perfectly white, and all her appearance seemed
to indicate approaching dissolution ; before her was placed a
small trough in which blubber cut in small square pieces had
been thrown ; the hut was barely large enough for her to
sit upright in. It was the general opinion that when these
people become old and useless or incapable of looking out for
themselves, they are thus fed at common charge, for this was
the third hut we had observed thus tenanted.
Of their mode of worship, or whether they entertain any
idea of a Supreme Being, we know nothing ; the only thing
on which we could found a belief that they did worship some-
thing, was, that most of them had small images cut out of the
sea horse's teeth, exactly resembling, and clothed like them-
selves. These they seemed to prize, for they seldom came to
view unless by accident, but even of these I brought home
several ; a white metal button was beyond the power of their
resistance. Neither did we ever find out what became of
their dead, for during the whole of our intercourse with them
I only saw the remains of a dead body, nor did I hear of any
one else who did. This body was laying on a long low point
at Kotzebue Sound, and had evidently been burnt, for the
bones, perfectly white, were laying on a heap of ashes; aUwas
perfect except the hands and feet, and of these not a vestige
was left. Just as we stood looking at the remains, one of their
bidairs paddled by apparently watching our motions, but no
inducement could get them to land there ; they pointed to a
distant place for us to go and meet them. At this time,
September, the days drew in fast, the thermometer fell with
dreadful rapidity, sea horses became more numerous, and our
provisions getting low. An exact survey of our provisions was
ordered by the Captain, which was found to be but small ;
we had then been sixteen months from England, it is not to be
wondered at that our stock was getting low although every
precaution had been used to preserve it.
208
The very last day of our ascent up the Strait, the natives
came up in great numbers ; Ilittle or no difference existed
between these and those at th| mouth of the Strait ; friendly
and willing to exchange any thing they had, except eatables,
and of those the lateness of the season obliged them to be care-
ful ; white metal buttons were the best for traffic. I recollect
one of our officers offering several anchor buttons and small
pieces of money for a whalebone net used to catch wild fowl,
which was refused ; sometime after meeting the man again,
and desirous the officer should not be disappointed of his net,
I offered him two white metal buttons from my jacket which
was immediately accepted, and Mr. got the net ; I lost
nothing by it. At the time of our beginning to move
downward, the ship's distance from Melville's Island was
said to be less than two hundred miles and no ice was
visible to impede our progress. There was therefore among
us before the main-mast great hopes that a passage would
be found through the Strait and reach Melville Island ;
but our superiors wisely considering the case better than we
could do, who had no charge and but little sense, bore up,
uncertain of what might be our destiny even if we did reach
Melville Island upon our scanty allowance of provisions. On
our way downward we again landed to put up marks for
Capt. F , and the barge, in the event of their coming after
us ; several of the hills at which we landed and which showed
the face of an almost up and down cliff were composed of flint,
thickly mixed with coal ; there was some taken on board once
or twice, but no doubt from its long exposure to the air it did
not burn well, though by digging no doubt good coal could
have been got at. About the middle of September the ship
again anchored as near the Uric Rocks as she safely could ;
the first boat that left the ship was sent to examine how the
cask of flour which had been buried fared ; it was found laying
in cakes trodden down by the natives, who having watched us
burying it, had immediately dug it up again, tore the hoops off
s
209
the cask and left the flour to moulder and decay. It was
gathered up, bad as it was, and given to the ship's company ;
no one who did not see it could form an idea how bad it
was, but it still made one good supper for all hands, and that
evening I observed that there was not fore and aft the lower
deck an ill tempered man, all seemed pleased ; such is the
effect of food even upon the mind.
Some days after our return to the Sound the cutter was sent
to survey a distant part of it ; as it was necessay to have a
long day, breakfast was had and the boat ready to shove off
before six in the morning ; during the whole of the day we
were busily employed pulling and sailing about, and at night
landed on a long low point for our officer to take his last
angles; as soon as the boat touched the sand, the officer
jumped out leaving a man to bring out his instruments ; there
was in the boat a young midshipman, I think it was his
very first voyage, who remaining in the boat said to me, "will
you carry me out, you have got your boots on ?" certainly Mr.
said I, do I not always carry you out, and at the same
time turned round for him to jump on my back ; it was a
shallow sand and I had some distance to carry him, and while
he was thus perched on my back I said to him, how much
longer is Mr. going to keep us away, it is now nearly
eight at night, and since six this morning we have had no
food ? (C oh, not long now said the young gentleman ;" just
then I set him down when looking earnestly up in my face,
66 poor fellow" said he stuttering, " I dare say you are hungry/*
and pulling from his side pocket his own small eight ounce loafj
he held it to me saying " here B eat this and then you
will not be hungry ;" struck with his generosity I refused it,
saying how could I Mr. take your bread who have no
more than myself, " but you know" said he " that Mr.
(meaning the officer) shot a duck this forenoon, which we
broiled and ate;" nothing would satisfy him, I took half his little
loaf and having eaten it, the opposite side pocket produced a
210
small bottle, in which was rather more than a gill of wine,
which the generous boy (he was then but a boy) held to me,
" here" said he " drink part, but dont d d dip too deep into
it," and fearful that I should indeed dip too deep, held the bottle
to my mouth while I drank half his little all, willing in any
moment to share with his hungry shipmate his last mouthful.
Oh what a bright example, and a circumstance which though
it may be forgotten by him, yet remains written on my heart
in characters never to be erased ; he has now risen to manhood,
and in rank may he enjoy all the blessings his shipmates
wish him.
Some years after, accident threw me near Mr. father's
house, being just then paid off and my time my own, I deter-
mined to call and find out if the young gentleman was at
home ; an elderly gentleman whom I took to be a clergyman
met me at the door and having enquired my business, told me
that his son was still at sea, but finding that I had sailed with
him insisted on my coming in. He had not seen his son since
he had left England in the B , as he had been left abroad
just before we came home, and on that account he felt great
pleasure in hearing any thing relative to him. Among other
occurrences of the voyage I related to the father the kind con-
duct of his son, and as I spoke I could see thick drops chasing
each other down the furrowed cheeks of the venerable parent ;
they for the time being forgot their rank, placed me at their
own table, and on my leaving would have forced money into
my hands, which of course I refused, I would not have had
them suppose that I came for such a purpose.
About the l?th, one of our marines died from a wound
received at Gambler's Island, which had been getting worse
and worse, and at last terminated fatally. 'The officers knowing
how very timid the natives were on going near a dead body,
buried a cask of flour and some preserved meat as near as
possible to the grave for Captain Franklin ; they were aware
that should the natives ever see them buried and happen to
211
take up the body first, no consideration would induce them
ever to go there again : just as they imagined, so it happened,
for the body and its accompaniment were buried but a few
hours, when the natives landed and commenced digging away.
The first thing they came to was the coffin ; they were sadly
puzzled how to open it, at last after all their efforts had failed
with their stone axes, one of them produced a small hatchet
purchased from our ship, by it the lid soon flew off, and
discovered to their astonished eyes a dead body. Of all the
strange scenes I ever witnessed I suppose this to be the most
ludicrous, for a moment there they stood on each side the
coffin looking at each other, uncertain how to act ; at last as
if impelled by one motive, they all ran away and went into
their bidair and paddled from the shore, holding as it were a
council among themselves, which at last ended in a deter-
mination to re-inter the body, for almost as suddenly as they
had left it, they returned to the shore, and having put the
lid down, replaced the coffin in the grave and left all just as
they had found it, and there it remains no doubt in perfect
safety, for no persuasion could induce them to land on that
place while we lay here ; it must require some strange revo-
lution of nature to bring it to light.
212
CHAPTER XVIII.
KOTZEBUE SOUND, CALIFORNIA, CHINA, &C.
TIME passed fast, every day as it rolled along gave more
powerful indications of the approach of winter. Serious ap-
prehensions were entertained for the safety of the barge ; the
natives continued their friendly intercourse, traded with us
for bows, arrows, &c., in fact any thing but eatables. We
were employed in surveying the different parts of the Sound,
and procuring wood ; as we had to bake our own bread, we
required a vast quantity of wood for fuel. Early in October,
we had the happiness, one Sunday afternoon, of seeing the
barge come round the point ; we received her with three very
hearty cheers, as friends long separated and which we had
almost given up all hope of ever seeing again. On the 8th,
the barge was hoisted in ; the remainder of the day was spent
in filling the main deck with fire-wood in large logs ready for
sawing up when opportunity offered. 9th, a bitter cold day,
the thermometer sunk very low and the snow fell fast. ; early
in the morning we attempted to weigh, but before we could
purchase the anchor the chain gave way, by which we lost an
anchor and twenty fathom of cable. At 8, P. M., passed Cape
Prince of Wales with a heavy gale at S. E. and sea very high.
10, 30, P. M., shipped a sea on the larboard bow, knocked
in three of our main-deck ports, and let in so much water that
213
the large logs floating about the decks made it dangerous
to be there ; it so washed about that it was found necessary to
scuttle the deck to let it down into the hold : such was the
quantity on the main-deck, and the great weight of the wood,
that she seemed careless of rising to the sea, and it was con-
sidered a time of imminent danger. Again, " all hands save
ship" shot a thrill of horror through our very hearts ; the
chain pumps were rigged, and for one hour gained nothing
on the water, and during that hour the fore-sail was split,
leaving only the bolt rope. A short time after, the main-top
sail sheet gave way, and the sail was soon in ribbons ; the
pumps now gained on the ship, and at 4, A. M., the weather
became more moderate, and the sea going down enabled the
carpenters to secure the ports. The hold was freed of water,
all the wood on the main-deck was hove overboard, and the
sudden change of the wind brought fine weather, which just
lasted long enough to take us to San Francisco, where we
anchored on the I Oth November, 1826. About eight miles
across from the place in which we lay, was another small bay
called by our people Whaler's Bay. Here three English and
four American whale ships were laying, come in from a cruise
to refresh and refit ship. With the Master of one of them our
Purser contracted for five tons of biscuit ; in the meantime full
allowance of flour was served out to all hands the very first
day of our anchoring in the place.
In the afternoon a Spaniard came down to the beach with
his horse and two large paniers ; supposing he brought fruit,
the commanding officer sent me to see what he had, and if
fruit to purchase some. I found that he had brought cakes of
about six ounces each, diamond shaped, about an inch thick,
and made from wheat and India corn flour, and montequille,
a sort of butter without salt. I succeeded in getting one
dollar's worth which were sixteen, and returned to the ship
highly pleased with the treat I had to give my messmates, who
214
having eaten their daily allowance at breakfast, were quite
ready to attack my basket. On my getting on board, I threw
my bargain on the table, saying, " here you are lads, eat this
and trust to providence for to-morrow " it raised a smile on
all, but over eating was likely to prove more fatal than hunger,
for after supper three of us were in agony from having rather
indulged our appetite too much. Next morning I was sent
away in the cutter for the bread that had .been purchased ;
the wind was fresh and tide against us. so that we did not get
to the Eagle till past noon ; when the master of the Eagle
told me that we could have no bread that day, but advised
me to remain there till next morning when we could get
it easily ; after some moments spent in consideration, the
Master of the ship called me up and asked if we had had our
our dinner, I smiled and said, f - yes sir/ 5 though I meant no
all the time. The Master however saw my drift, and said,
" go down in the steerage, you will find something to eat
there;" on our going down we found all the white men,
sixteen in number sitting down to a yet untouched sea-pie ;
on seeing us the men immediately got up and bade us sit
down, nor would they be denied, for as they kindly said you
have not had such a dinner these many months, and we are
rolling in affluence of food ; we did eat, and doing credit to
their sea-pye soon emptied the dishes. In the evening they
gave us an excellent supper, nor would any of them lay down
till all of us were supplied with beds. I had collected during
my cruise in the South Pacific a great number of curious
shells, of these I had taken a large handkerchief full, and was
truly glad I had done so, for I was enabled to make some
presents to each, which though small were highly acceptable.
In the evening I was invited to spend a short time in the
cabin, and there enjoyed a glass of excellent porter; in the
morning by seven o' clock I was ready to shove off, and not
one of us went empty handed for all had a liberal supply of
215
tobacco, and wherever it was possible to stow a biscuit for
ourselves we were allowed to put it away.
San Francisco, is a fine safe bay, with several rivers running
into it ; the Spaniards have several small forts, each con-
taining about thirty soldiers and one or two officers, and six
small guns. At a distance of about twenty miles are Missions,
consisting of a small village, partly Spaniards and partly
Indians, under the care of a Padre or Priest ; their business
is to convert the Indians to the Catholic Faith, and it is but
justice to say that these Priests spare no trouble or labour to
fulfil their duty. The Indians, particularly the young, are
carefully instructed to read, write, weave, shoe making, &c. ;
the soil is really excellent, and although it was cold and winter
time, mushrooms were abundant ; tiger cats of an immense
size are found here. Ihe servant to our naturalist while
shooting birds for specimens, on turning the side of a square
cluster of trees saw five tiger cats near him, and one of them
in the very act of rising to spring on him ; the man was
alarmed no doubt, but his presence of mind never forsook
him ; if it had, and he had but for one moment given way, his
life would not have been worth a straw ; but in a moment,
taking a ball from his pocket, he put it into his rifle, and with-
out ramming it home, merely giving it a slight blow on the
butt, he levelled it and killed the one that was springing at him;
the shot was fatal, the savage beast fell only a few feet from
him; it measured three feet seven inches in length, stout,
strong built, and a terrible set of teeth ; its skin neatly pre-
served is now in one of the Museums in London.
From one of the Missionaries we got a plentiful supply of
flour, as also as many bullocks as were required for fresh meat,
and to salt for future use ; good living soon made a great dif-
ference in our size and looks, which above eleven months
eight upon four had brought down very low. A large tent
was erected on shore for salting the meat, the cooper lived in
it, and hung his hammock up at one end of it ; and the beef
216
which had been killed also during the day was hung up for
the night to purify and cool for salting next morning ; the
offal was thrown in a large hole just outside the tent. One
night a great number of jackalls attracted by the smell of the
offal came down from the woods, and having devoured the
whole of it, found their way into the tent, which was only
closed with canvas, and by jumping up managed to break
down one of the quarters, which coming down with a crash,
awakened the old cooper, who seeing himself thus surrounded
by unwelcome visitors, fired his musket, and clasping his arms
round a quarter of beef which hung close to his hammock, in
an agony of terror he became perfectly senseless, where he
was found by an officer, who was sent to ascertain the reason
of his having fired his musket.
Early in December, one of our marines, while attending
upon Mr. N , the Assistant Surgeon who was shooting
ducks, went into a pond where some wounded ducks were,
and getting entangled in the brushwood was drowned ; it was
several hours before his body was recovered. It was got out and
buried in a very deep grave which had been many years before
dug for a Lieutenant of Kotzebue's, who also died here, and over
whom a monument had been raised. Several Spaniards of
the most respectable sort attended the funeral, and each in
turn advancing to the grave threw a handful of earth on
the coffin, it being in this country a mark of great respect.
Although the grave was nine feet deep, on visiting it a few
days after, the coffin was found all to pieces, and the body gone ;
nothing remained save a few bones here and there strewed about.
Our barge and cutter were constantly employed in sur-
veying the river until Christmas. On the 24th our cutter,
under charge of Mr. S. was sent up to a Mission for a load of
calavances, which the Purser had bought from an old priest
that had command there ; I was sent up to act as interpreter.
The Mission was about thirty-two miles from the ship; about
half way up to it the river branched itself off three different
217
ways ; at the top of one was this Mission ; the river leading to
it was so narrow and so shallow that we were obliged to stop
at an Indian village nine miles from the place, but the priest
expecting us had dispatched an Indian with a horse for the
officer. Mr. S. left me in charge with orders to make ourselves
as comfortable as we could during his absence, mounted his
horse and rode away; about sixty yards from us was the
Indian village ; I walked to it see if any thing was to be got
to keep up Christmas, but they were poor. I got nothing but
a few pumpkins, with a promise of some wild ducks next day.
In the mean time the boat's crew had got the masts and sails on
shore and erected a comfortable tent, and by the time I re-
turned, supper was ready, after which all laid down on the
ground. I slept like a top till four the next morning, at
which time I was awakened by the man, whose duty it was
to officiate as cook for the day, who told me if I would go
to the village and get a light, he would have a good break-
fast ready for the lads by the time they awoke. Now
reader I must describe my dress, and excuse me, for that
very dress saved my life ; over the rest of my clothing as
a seaman, I had a large frock made from the skin of a rein
deer, it was long enough when let down to cover my feet well
and turned up at foot buttoning all round the skirt ; at the top
was a hood made from the skin taken off the head of a bear
ears and all ; in front was a square lappel which in the day
time hung loosely over the breast, but at night buttoned just
behind the ears, leaving only the mouth, nose, and eyes free
for respiration, so that one with such a dress might lay down
any where and sleep warm and comfortable. Mr. S had
given eight dollars for it at Kamtschatka, and on our return to
more genial climes, forgot the future, and gave it to me ; fancy
then my figure thus accoutred, issuing from under the canvas
tent with a lanthorn. in my hand. I had not advanced above
twenty yards, when first only two or three, and then an
immense number of jackalls surrounded me ; I was at first
p
218
disposed to think but lightly of them, but seeing their numbers
increase so rapidly, I grew alarmed and probably gave way to
fear sooner than I ought ; a few shots from the tent would no
doubt have sent them away with speed, but no one saw me.
Every moment they drew closer and closer in a complete
round, and seemed to look at me with determined hunger ;
for some moments I remained in a most dreadful state of
alarm. It just then occurred to me that I once heard of a
boy who had driven back a bull out of a field by walking back-
wards on his hands and feet, fortunate thought, I caught at
the idea, in a moment I was upon all fours, with my head as
near to the earth as I could keep it, and commenced cutting
all the capers of which I was capable ; the jackalls, who no
doubt never had seen so strange an animal, first stopped,
then retreated, and as I drew near the tent flew in all directions.
The men awoke just in time to see my danger and have a
hearty laugh at me and the jackalls ; for some months it be-
came a by-word if I was going anywhere, they would bid me
be careful of the jackalls. An experienced old Indian told
me some days afterwards, that but for the way in which I had
acted, my life would not have been worth a farthing. During
this evening I saw the Indians go into what they call their
bath, which consists of a large square hole dug in the earth,
across which, rafters are thickly laid and boughs of trees ; on
the top of which three or four feet of earth is laid; a door, like
that of an oven is left on one side, all the rest is completely
closed up ; round the inside are seats of earth raised about
two feet, on which the sick, the lame, and many of the lazy
sit. As soon as all who intend to go in are seated quite naked,
the fire, which has been previously laid, is lighted ; in a few
moments the perspiration flows freely down from all parts of
their bodies which they keep rubbing down with either hand,
and to look at them from the outside one would suppose them
a parcel of ghosts. As the fire burns down, the perspiration
ceases to flow, they wrap themselves in their blankets and
219
away to their huts. After the business was well over and the
fire out, I went to see the place, but the air was so dis-
agreeable that I was glad to get out,, but covered with a herd
of fleas which caused me to spend a sleepless night. Christ-
mas, the second from our leaving England, passed, but there
was no English fare, the roast beef and plum pudding that
smokes upon the poorest boards was absent from ours ; our
cheer that day was meagre, but in order to make amends the
next morning, a message came from the mission to say that
owing to the festival we could get no calavances for two days,
but to enable us to enjoy ourselves, the Padre had sent us a
fine sheep, a small bag of calavances, and two bottles of
brandy with one of wine ; the poor sheep soon fell a victim to
the knife of the cook ; all care vanished. Some writer has
said that an Irishman half drunk, a Scotchman half starved,
and I feel assured that an Englishman with his belly full, will
face any thing, so I have ever found it. On our return to
the ship all was ready for sea, even the observatory was taken
down. On the 7th, we dropped down to Whaler's Point, our
dropping there proved the means of saving the life of a fellow
creature.
The Omega, an American Whaler, laying here had on board
a man who had for upwards of eight months been suffering
from an ulcerated leg which had got to such a state that the
bone was bare for seven or eight inches ; the Master of the
vessel applied to Captain B for medical aid, stating that
the man was a British subject, born in London ; but in either
case English or American, the Captain was not the gentleman
to refuse medical, or any other aid to a fellow creature in dis-
tress. Mr. C , on his first visit, saw that immediate
amputation alone could save the man's life, and also that the
operation could not be performed where he was. Mr. C
asked and obtained leave for the man to be removed to our
ship which was done, but such was his state, that no one
supposed he ever could get over it, he was a complete skeleton ;
p 2
220
his leg was taken oft, and by the constant care of Messrs.
C and N , he very soon recovered, and by all means
in his power made himself useful ; on his leaving the ship a
collection was made for him among the officers and men,
which set him up again, and he left us truly grateful for the
kindness he had received.
January, 1827, weighed and made sail, and after a fine
passage anchored within the reefs, at Whahoo, where we found
an American ship, from which we got thirty-eight casks of
flour, and some rope, with canvas for a main course, of which
we stood much in need ; the Active, of Boston, came in the
day after us, and from her we replenished our stock of rum.
Sometime before our arrival the Government had purchased a
vessel from an American Merchant called the Chinchili;
this vessel was to be paid for in sandal wood, which was as
usual levied in certain quantities from each of the Chiefs ; in
consequence of which the market was taboed, and not a thing
allowed to come into it until the necessary quantity of sandal
wood was produced.
The time of cutting it is appointed by the King, and that
is invariably at night, but for what cause I could never find
out ; this time was appointed while we lay here, and the Cap-
tain was invited to accompany the young King to view the
scene ; our cutter was ordered to take the party, and it took
us nearly all the forenoon to get to the spot. When the party
took horses and left me in charge of the boat, I asked and ob-
tained leave to ascend the hill in the evening; the ascent was
painful and fatiguing, but it fully repaid me by the pleasing
sight that met my eyes ; there stood a vast number of men as-
sembled, each with a torch made from sandal wood, which
burns bright and clear, at a certain signal they dispersed ; each
taking his own way to cut his load, accompanying his labour
with a song, to which the whole band within hearing join in
chorus ; the song we understood not, but in the calm of a
beautiful night it was calculated to inspire delight. After the
221
labour of two or three hours the wood is collected together,
each Chief inspecting his own lot, judging of the quality by
the colour and weight ; it is then taken to the water's edge
where it is piled end on ready for boats to take away ; the
people then returned to their homes, and we to the young King's
country house, after which I went to the boat. The people
who were ordered to provide for the boat's crew had an excel-
lent supper ready for us, consisting of baked goat's flesh, and
some very fine mullet not long out of the water ; we were ex-
tremely well treated, and after supper went to sleep on some
nice soft mats laid down on purpose. In the morning I was
ordered round to the ship with the boat leaving the officers
to ride round. I left the place and had just got at the outside
of the reef, when the wind shifted suddenly dead ashore, and
it blew so hard at the same time that the ship was obliged
to let go her sheet anchor j I would gladly have bore up again
and ran in, but such was the intricacy of the reef, and the sea
beating over it so furiously, that the remedy was worse than
the disease. About nine at night we got alongside the ship ;
during the day it was supposed that we had gone on shore on
the reefs and perished ; a day or two after we received a bag
of letters from England. Any one who has been twenty
months away without the slightest intelligence from all he
holds dear on earth, can judge of the pleasure I felt on seeing
four letters addressed to me in the well-known hand of my
wife, and on opening them that pleasure was doubled by find-
ing that all at home were well and only anxious for the welfare
of the father and the husband long absent. Although the
dates were old still it seemed as if conversing with friends
long lost.
Early in March, having completed all we could get here,
we got the ship outside the reef, and on the 9th, weighed for
Macao; on the 7^h April, entered the Typer, anchored in
3J fathoms ; very soon after our arrival a boat with a Man-
darin came alongside (as we forward supposed) to ascertain
222
the purpose of our voyage, and the next day we were sur-
prised at the appearance of four Chinese war junks, one of
which anchored on each bow and quarter, but still kept
at a most respectful distance ; it was understood they were
sent there to prevent us from surveying the Typer and its
adjacent parts. In the afternoon our cutter was sent on board
of the largest which we supposed the Commodore, and while
the officers were busily employed in making their business
understood, I was equally busy in making observations on all
I saw ; one man seemed anxious to prevent me from getting
on deck, but I got up and had a fair view of the arrange-
ments ; from her size I should suppose her a vessel of two
hundred tons measurement, her decks very much rounded
amidships, three very heavy spars for masts without tops, caps,
rigging, or any such geer as is used in British ships to sup-
port them which seemed terribly out of proportion to t^e
hull, and therefore required no other support than their own
strength, with three lug sails made from very coarse canvas ; the
bow of the vessel was just six feet four above the water, while
the stem had two tiers of cabins built on it, and from its great
height above the bow made the vessel look as if she was
running bows under ; but whoever would describe her decks
must use a far superior pen to mine. It consisted of one
common medley of casks, tubs, boxes, ropes, &c., there was
scarcely one vacant spot in the whole of it. Her guns of which
she had eight, from the calibre appeared to be much like our
seventeen hundred six pounders, and were secured to the deck
on a sort of slide, capable of no training, very little elevation,
and no depression at all. With all her eight guns well manned,
according to their custom, I ' should consider her com-
pletely under the command of any of our line of battle ship's
launches. I walked down a ladder into what should have
been a mess-deck, but there it was even worse than before,
and I left her impressed with the idea that she was the dir-
tiest tub I had ever seen, particularly when compared with
223
the neatness and symmetry of a British ship of war ; if they
intended to impress us with any thing like respect, they
should not have allowed us on board.
The Island of Macao is under Portugueze dominion, well
supplied with guns, and well garrisoned with troops from the
mother country. On a hill on each side, and which completely
commands the town, is a strong battery ; except the uninhab-
ited Island in the Typer, Macao is the only place where Tartars
were permitted to land, and even there they are looked upon
with a certain degree of jealousy. The town itself is inhabited
by merchants of almost all nations, particularly when they are
obliged to leave Canton, and although there are persons of so
many different nations, the town is very clean and well built.
It has a beautiful appearance from the sea, and does not
deceive on landing ; the houses are all chunamed outside,
which makes them a delicate white, without the painful bright-
ness of lime. Among the very lower order of Chinese traders,
any thing in the world is to be found but honesty, and that I
believe is banished to regions far away. In my little dealings
I purchased some crockery ware, from the stand of a man who
spoke broken English ; sometime after I discovered that he
had charged me just double the price I onght to have paid
for it. I returned to him, much inclined to break a small
portion of his ware, to make up for his roguery, but changed
my plan, and only taxed him with having cheated me ; the
fellow with all the impudence in the world, put his finger up
to his eye, and laughing, said " he had been to London, (Bil-
lingsgate,)" and I considered he had given me a very fair sample
of it. The only Chinese female I ever had a sight of, was at
Macao ; I ran a good distance to get a view of her pretty
little foot, but found nothing in it to repay my run ; that it
was small is certain, and any one who had never seen a
Chinese woman, would at first sight suppose them to becripples.
The foot itself was about the size of a child's of eight years of
age, more in the shape of the flat iron used by English women,
224
than any thing I ever saw. The flesh of the leg had grown
to such a size by the contraction of the foot, that it entirely
over lapped the side of the shoe, making as far I could see, the
leg, as big below as above. Every step the poor woman took,
on that side her foot turned down, and she slipped on her
ankle, and there for the time being, rested her whole weight ;
her skin, sallow, dull, with most disagreeable features. Poor
creature, I dare say she fancied from my following her so,
walking just after, and then before her, that I was an impudent
fellow ; such was not my motive, a mere curiosity actuated
me. If this one could be taken as a sample of her country
women, I sincerely pity the men; there was none of that
sweet expression of countenance, mild diffidence, and speaking
eye, so common among the females of our happy isle.
During our survey, we landed upon nearly all the Islands
in the Typer ; those few that were inhabited were only thinly
so, but upon each of them there was a Josh-house. Now this
said Josh is the God of the Chinese, but to describe him is
impossible, for every man forms Josh after his own manner,
in whatever shape pleases him. I have been in some cot-
tages where Josh was placed in one corner of the room, in the
shape of a lion, with a vast number of eyes. It is invariably
the rule at each meal, before any one touches the food, to place
a part of it in an earthen dish before this Josh, but as it is
never eaten, after a time it is thrown into the river. The houses
of worship are built of bamboos, at one end of which is an
altar, on which is constantly burning a sort of stick, made
from sandal wood, called Josh's stick 5 they burn like touch
paper, giving a pleasing smell almost like the incense in our
Catholic Churches. At sunset every boat in the river burns
firewood, and those that can raise gongs, strike them from the
time the sun's lower limb touches the horizon, until he totally
disappears, so that for a few moments the din is horrid.
Sometime after our arrival, Capt. had occasion to go
to Canton; the East India Company's yatch was granted to
225
take him. For some reason, I am not aware of, I was selected
to go with him ; though gratified at the idea of seeing the
great city, I felt less pleasure than I should have done had
the coxswain went, for I knew he was the person who had
more right to the favour than myself; but as I hold it wrong
to question the motives of my superiors, I went without a
word. The river is very fine ; large batteries erected on
either side at the narrowest parts, are capable, if well worked,
of preventing ships of any strength from passing, but under
present circumstances, a few of our well laid sixty-eights
would silence them very soon; the scenery is grand and
pleasing. As you ascend the river innumerable boats of all
kinds and sizes are moored on each side for the purpose of
conveying passengers or goods from one side to the other ; the
smaller ones are by the English called sandpans, not more than
ten feet long, almost flat, about four feet deep, decked over
with stiff rushes, over which is a tilt of the same materials,
which opening in the middle, drops over bow and stern,
leaving the deck open, or otherwise at the desire of the pas-
sengers. In most of these a whole family lives, father, mother,
daughters and all ; many of them are kept for the vilest pur-
poses. From such a vast number of boats, the river would
be impassable without danger of life, were not the rules adhered
to with the greatest rigour. At sunset every boat must have
its lanthorn of coloured paper up ; no boat dares to move after
dark, and with their variegated lights a stranger would take
it for a large city ; in the day time, in order to keep the river
as clear as possible, and allow a free passage to boats up and
down, a Mandarin boat with a gallows erected on her bow,
as an emblem of her authority, rows up and down the river, and
the moment the noted personage appears, he makes a terrible
stir among the smaller fry.
No description can be given of Canton, for no foreigner is
allowed to enter it ; the suburbs are extremely dirty, the shops
small ; I purchased several pieces of nankeen, at 4 shillings per
226
piece, and shoes very neatly made, three pairs for one dollar.
I went to the English factory to buy a small caddy or two
of tea ; a Chinese who attended there, gave me two empty
caddies to fill, each was to hold two pounds; supposing
it a great privilege to fill my own tea, I gave the man besides
the stipulated price, a mace, (or sixpence half-penny) and set
to lustily to make my boxes hold their due proportion ; but
on my shewing them to the man, he looked at me with a true
Chinese grin, "I yah he no full/* took the boxes away and put
above four ounces in each of them. The Captain's business
being concluded, we left Canton, and on our return to the ship
with full allowance of all kinds of provisions, about the 2nd
of May we left the Typer, and about the 9th anchored inside
the coral reef, at the Loo Choo Islands, about one mile from
the town ; several boats came off with the natives, who resem-
bled the Chinese in every thing but roguery, and although
the Loo Chooans are tributary to them, they seem not to have
inherited their vices.
No ship had visited these islands since the Alceste and the
Lyra, they seemed to express great wonder at our ship ; all
were freely admitted and during our stay the ship was like a
fair, but all was conducted without noise, riot, or confusion.
Every morning a man came off whom we called the master at
arms, this personage paraded the decks all day and kept his
countrymen in perfect order, none seemed to dare dispute his
word ; whatever was wanted was brought off to the ship, bul-
locks, water, wood, and charcoal, like the Alceste we got all
free alongside. At first, landing was entirely forbidden, but
after a deal of pro. and con. the officers were allowed to land,
with each one follower to carry his instruments ; of this I
availed myself and following the master with his spy-glass had
a delightful walk on shore, but on no consideration were we
allowed to go near the bridge that led to the town, and if by
chance the officers strolled near the bridge it was immediately
intimated to them that they must go no further. I saw
227
one officer who seemed determined to cross it, and had
advanced some steps on it, when the natives seeing that all
their endeavours to stop him were unheeded, actually laid
down across the bridge, thereby telling him that if he would
persist in going he must step over their bodies; at this the
officer desisted from the attempt.
We had several visits from the Chief Mandarin who was
received with a salute and a guard each time ; persons came
off to sketch the ship twice and after some trials produced a fair
drawing. On the coral reefs with which the island is surroun-
ded, some very handsome shells were collected, among which
were some Venus' Cars of great value. About the 16th the
natives wishing to give the officers of the ship a grand dinner,
had a house removed (it was only a bambooone) down to the
beach ; all were invited. An elegant table was laid out for
the officers and another for the men at the other end of the
house ; the Chief and several of the party sung or rather re-
cited something like a song after the manner of the country ;
one of our officers gave them " Arthur O'Bradley O," and all
joined in (e Rule Britannia." Hospitality seems to be the
pervading characteristic of these islanders, no one thing was
wanting to make it complete. About the 19th we left them and
on the 26th the man at the mast head reported the land, which
we found to be a cluster of islands to which the name of
Bonin Islands was given. Early next morning the cutter under
Lieut. B - was ordered on shore to survey and search for a
harbour ; the whole of the day was thus employed and although
many fine harbours were found, all the entrances were rocky
and unsafe. About 2 o'clock in despair of accomplishing our
object we turned the boat's head to the offing where the ship
was hove to about ten miles off; as the boat was going through
the narrow passage of one of the harbours, I was steering,
my eye sight was then excellent, I observed some dark object
on the beach which seemed to move, I pointed it out to Mr.
B who taking his glass took one look and said, " hard a
228
port; pull in shore/' as we pulled in shore Mr. B still using
his glass, a prize by B , pull away boys ; on landing
we found the beach covered with turtle, of the very best green
kind. It required but little precaution to take them, for the
animals never having been disturbed, were not shy; one sudden
jerk laid them on then* backs, and they became ours, within
an hour forty were turned ; but it was found that fourteen
were as many as our little cutter could carry, and the rest were
turned again and allowed to plunge into deep water. We
found it a heavy pull to regain the ship, it was nearly mid-
night when we got alongside. Lieut. P looking over the
side, said " well B , what in the name of wonder have you
got the boat so deep with," " oh, it is only stone" said Mr.
B , send us the yard tackle down ; d m the stone said
Mr. P , the ship's full of it, the tackle was sent down ; on
the first hoist Mr. P seeing the welcome guests, was so
pleased that he ordered the boat's crew in to their suppers and
hammocks, which otherwise in the hurry would have been for-
gotten. Two turtle were killed that evening, the remaining
twelve were put on the main deck for future use. On the fol-
lowing day the sailors had turtle soup for dinner, it was very
good, for the officers gave wine to put into it, and some cab-
bage trees which had been found, supplied a pleasing vegetable.
All this day was very thick, the ship stood off and on, it not
being deemed prudent to near the land. Next morning the
weather being clear the cutter was dispatched on shore with Mr.
E to search or an anchorage ; we left the ship early in the
morning and pulling into a sort of harbour which we had not
before seen, our surprise was extreme on seeing an English
ensign Union down upon a point of land, and presently a man
hailed " boat ahoy" in good English, asking what boat that was;
on being informed, he said " come on shore," but Mr. E , an
experienced old seaman was too sensible to trust to his word, said
" no, no, let us know who you are first," upon which the man
told us that himself and one man more were the remains of
229
the crew of the William, South Sea man, late His Majesty's
Ship Tyne ; that about fourteen months before the William
had discovered these islands, and after much trouble had found
out the creek where her remains now lay, and finding it a safe
comfortable anchorage, commenced refitting and coopering
the oil ; they had got on so far that nearly all the oil was on
deck, except a part of the lower tier of tun butts, which had
been replaced, when a heavy gale sprung up, such a gale as
none of them had ever before seen ; the sky was of a deep
green colour, with red streaks which terrified all on board.
On the second morning of the gale, a heavy shock of earth-
quake had so shook the island that the water had risen above
sixty feet beyond its usual level, and at its third and last
rising had perched the ship at the very top of the rock at which
he pointed, and there she remained until the water sunk to its
usual level, when the ship rolled off the rock and crushed her-
self to pieces, bursting a great many of her casks. Next day
a fourth rising of the water floated the casks, many of them
high among the trees ; (e now sir/' said the man, "just pull
round the point and satisfy yourself of the truth of my state-
ment ;" and on going there it was evident, for of the late
William scarce two planks remained together, and on landing
the man informed us that part of the crew had gone away in
a ship which had touched there a month or two after, but
which being full had not been able to take any oil ; the Master
therefore chose to remain till some light ship might come and
enable him to save oil sufficient to pay the men's wages and
his own.
Some days after, while felling a tree for building a house,
it had fallen on the Captain and so much hurt him that he
died next day and was buried near the spot on which we then
stood ; one of them being a carpenter, had built a neat little
flat bottomed boat, a small house in which they lived by day,
and another in which they slept ; he had also railed round the
230
Captain's grave and placed a head-board there, on which were
cut the following lines :
" Reader, observe this verdant hillock here,
" Contains a tender husband, parent dear,
" A master kind, a friend sincere.
" The orphan's tears the widow's cries,
" Proclaim with real grief here dead he lies."
We took the two men to the ship with their little dog, and as
it had been the Captain's, they were doubly careful of it ;
one of the men acted as pilot, and by two o'clock we were
safe on board in the cove with our bower off and a hauser fast
to the very rock on which the William had stranded. The
observatory was landed, a plentiful supply of turtle, wood, and
water was procured ; on surveying, not the least vestige ap-
peared of their ever having been inhabited, nor did we see any
kind of wild animals. There seemed to have been a volcano
at no great distance on the islands, for the shores were lined
with pumice stone. Fish was abundant, and limpets were
found, the shells of which held above one pint ; cray-fish also
were in great numbers among the rocks, and very large.
Among the curiosities found here were some animals which
our officers called flying foxes ; they were about seven inches
long in the body, thickly covered with hair of a fine brown
colour, shaped like a fox, but instead of forefeet they had
wings of great length like a bat, from which projected five
very sharp claws of great strength by which the animal hung
itself to the trees ; one I measured was 174 inches from tip to
tip of wing, they only made a buzzing noise like a large
bee ; those that were caught were taken great care of and well
preserved. Not far from one of these houses the two men
had planted a pretty good garden, where potatoes, preserved
from the wreck, as also yams were growing very fine. Every
evening two turtle were killed for the use of the ship's com-
pany ; next day, from one alone I took 374 eggs of full growth,
leaving those not come to maturity untouched.
231
The islands were taken possession of in the name of His
Majesty George the Fourth, and a copper plate bearing the
ship's name, Captain's name, &c., was left secured to a tree.
I believe the Captain proposed to take the men from this
uninhabited spot, but they refused it, stating that ships would
soon touch there, and enable them to save oil enough to pay
their wages. Early in June, the ship's company were busily
employed in taking down the observatory, collecting wood
from the wreck, catching turtle, &c. ; seventy two turtle were
ranged between the guns on the main deck. The men left on
the island had saved a plentiful supply of bread and flour, for
their provisions having been put in oil casks in England, were
water tight, and previous to our sailing they were supplied
with such clothing as they wanted, so that nothing that
could contribute to their comfort was neglected by the kind-
ness of our Captain.
About the 2 7th of June, after a very fine passage, we again
took up our anchorage in Pietro Palowski, saluted the Gover-
nor ; salmon this year was plentiful, and very early, but hills
and valleys alike, deeply covered with snow, denoted that the
heavy winter was not yet over. The seine was shot every day,
and a plentiful supply of fish procured, of which all hands
had abundance ; the two best remaining turtles were sent on
shore as presents to the Governor, and out of all the colony
not one but the Governor knew what a turtle was ; all were
astonished to see an animal so curious produce eggs. As the
season was fast advancing, and Behring's Straits again to
encounter, the ship did not lay here long, but about the 9th,
weighed from Pietro Palowski ; our passage was extremely
trying to the constitution, for one constant drizzle of rain, sleet
and snow, and the air piercing cold, threw many of our men
into the sick list. 2 7th July, 1827, Cape Cruzuston again
rose to our view above the horizon, but so deeply immersed
in snow that no person could distinguish it from its fellow hills ;
as at Kamtschatka, all denoted a heavy winter. As we sailed
232
slowly upwards several bidairs full of natives came off with
articles of traffic ; all of them seemed to recognize us as old
friends, and clasped their hands over their heads in token of
joy. On seeing any men whom they more particularly re-
cognized, they ran to them with marked pleasure ; a one man
canoe came alongside, it was entirely covered with sea horse-
hide, leaving only one small hole in the middle at top, just
large enough to sit in on his heels, much like a tailor, leaving
the body beyond the waist above the boat, but in order to
prevent his getting wet in the event of the boat's capsizing,
whidh from its very light construction, and want of ballast,
it was likely to do, he was covered with a shirt made from
the inside gut of the sea horse, which was tied lightly round
the seat on which he sat ; the head was covered with a hood
of the same, which enclosed all the face, except the mouth,
nose and eyes, and being air and water proof, kept the man
warm and diy ; there were two paddles, one fast to the boat,
the other was carefully grasped in the hand, as in case of
turning, his immediate turning up depended a great deal
upon his paddle.
The natives by whom we were visited this year were not all
our old friends of the preceding; there were among them
several strange faces, the men had rather a prepossessing
appearance ; the forehead and indeed the whole face is par-
ticularly flat, the eye is small and piercing ; little difference is
visible in the dress of the males and females, but certainly of
the two, the men are best looking. Their sallow complexion
may in a great measure be attributed to the food they eat,
which is almost constantly raw, as well as the filth in which
they live ; they never know the comfort of a fresh water wash ;
that they are well acquainted with fire, is beyond a doubt,
for we frequently saw them with small fires, and at other
places the remains of it were still to be found ; it is never
used to warm themselves, the place is completely strewed
with wood, some of which have been large spars. Nothing
233
could induce them to taste our food, nor would they allow any
one to sit by them with writing or drawing implements ; I
once tried to take a slight sketch of an Esquimaux Chief,
who sat in the stern of his bidair, but no consideration
could induce him to sit still. Several Officers tried with
little better success. Of their honesty too much cannot be
said, at least among ourselves, for although every thing in and
about the ship must have been a matter of curiosity and won-
der, still I never heard of any thing being lost; indeed the
many articles which the Captain and officers kindly gave them,
almost did away the chance of dishonesty. A looking glass that
one of our men placed before them seemed to attract the most
marked attention ; like the monkey they looked behind it to
see what could be there. We saw no person deformed among
them, the humpback so common in the islands of the South
Pacific, seems unknown here ; it was also pretty evident that
each man had but one wife, for it was rare to see them either
hunting or shooting unaccompanied by a female who invariably
carried the load. I have seen an Esquimaux returning from
hunting carrying his bow and quiver of arrows, and walking
leisurely while his wife was struggling under the produce of
the chace, which was at times exceedingly heavy. July 25th,
anchored off the Uric Rocks, and one of our first duties was
to visit the flour which had been buried last year, and found it
undisturbed. The barge was again fitted out and sent North-
ward under Mr. B , with orders to rendezvous at Kotzebue
Sound ; the ship began to wood and water, every mark that
could be left also to attract the attention of Captain F ,
should he come there; all complete on the 1st the ship sailed.
Along the shores the ice was much thicker and in far greater
quantities than it had been last year, and the tops of hills,
capes, and headlands, were still deeply buried in snow which
told us that here also the winter had been very severe.
On the 6th, a few minutes after eight o'clock, while the
ship was in stays, she struck on her keel first, and paying off
Q
934
rested on her broadside against a bank of some kind ; when a
few minutes afterwards it cleared away, (for it had been thick
all night), and we found that she was fast ashore on a bank
from which she had but narrowly escaped the year before,
and to which among ourselves we had given the name of
B y s Bank. At this time it required no whistle to send the
men on deck, all were there ready to hand, the tide was ebbing ;
one of the ship's bower anchors and two kedges were immedia-
tely got out, and every man in her exerted himself to his
utmost ; much of the water was started and pumped out ; our
anchors were of no service in getting her off. Several bidairs of
natives came off, who appeared sensible that something was
amiss, but they were not aware of the extent of our calamity.
Towards noon the wind rose high, and the swell increasing the
ship heeled over a great deal ; in this critical moment every eye
was fixed upon the Captain and Master, all depending (I mean
the men) on their superior courage and judgment; both
were alike firm ; not the slightest alteration could be ob-
served in the countenance of either ; aware of danger^ they
seemed fully prepared to meet it, and provided resources for
every necessity ; and to the firmness of the superiors alone
may in most cases of danger be attributed that prompt execu-
tion of orders, that ready and willing attendance which marks
the well regulated ship and respected Commander. At that
moment we were deprived of two very valuable officers, one
away in the barge and the other nearly blind. About three in
the afternoon the wind still increasing and sea rising fast, as a
last effort, sail was made on the ship, and in a short time
during which she beat heavily, she gave one sudden spring,
nearly ran over all the boats natives and all, and in a few
moments was in 8 fathoms, and increased it till she got to 22;
our people cheered, the Esquimaux clapped their hands, and for
a moment all was confusion ; order was soon restored, the ship
was again afloat.
285
CHAPTER XIX.
ABOUT the 1 4th, we found ourselves embayed in high ice;
although I had seen islands of ice on the banks of Newfound-
land, these appeared higher ; possibly the darkness of the
night, and the sleet which fell heavily just then, might tend to
increase their size, and the cold was piercing ; it was with
difficulty that we found a passage out. At that time we were
not within a vast distance of our last year's ascent, but the
ice putting a stop to our progress upwards, we bent our
way down towards a harbour which the barge had discovered
last year ; it was a fine safe anchorage, and capable of con-
taining an immense number of ships. Villages of natives were
here and there scattered around its shores; large piles of
drift-wood were above high water mark, some of them spars
of great size and length j there were some fifteen inches in
diameter, but whence they came, or how put there, I believe
puzzled all our men. At one corner of the harbour was a
narrow river leading upwards farther than the eye could
reach; the shores on each side composed of alternate hills
and villages ; just at the entrance of it was a village of natives
that were busily engaged in drying fish, most of them small
codfish ; they had but few salmon. Our cutter was ordered
upwards with the Master to survey. The river contained a
great number of short reaches, each turning in a different
Q2
236
direction, and at each angle we found a village. At one we
landed to trade ; I very much wished to get a bow and quiver
of arrows, and seeing a man who had just returned from
shooting with one in his hand, I offered him a knife for it ; at
first he seemed willing to close the bargain, but shortly went
into his tent and brought another one much smaller than the
first which he presented me. Aware of the difference, I re-
fused it, and as an additional inducement, I pulled out the
knife and two buttons ; the temptation was too great to resist,
I got his bow, and we parted both equally pleased. As I
walked down towards the boat, I had in my hand a small
hatchet which belonged to one of the officers ; a woman came
to me with a child about fourteen months' old, wishing to
barter it for my hatchet, but as the hatchet was not mine, nor
had I the means of feeding her little one, we could not transact
business in that way ; had I bought her child, it certainly
would have been a novelty in England, which would have
gratified many. It is generally the case that men are more
charmed with novelty than with the intrinsic value of things.
Novelty inflames all our actions and determinations. What
is new or difficult of acquisition, however trifling or insignifi-
cant, readily captivates the imagination, and for a time raises
our admiration ; while that which is familiar or easily attained,
however noble eminent or good, passes by disregarded by the
unthinking.
At all the villages where we landed, the natives were friendly
and willing to trade without the slightest inclination to theft ;
we had proceeded on our excursion about eighteen miles
upwards, and as night was coming on, Mr. thought of re-
turning but before he did so he landed at the foot of a hill, not
far from the boat to erect a beacon on the top of it, and to
take a view of the adjacent country. All but myself and one
man left the boat; not long after their leaving me, several
natives came down, and, though very friendly, their numbers
were greatly superior to ours. I thought it best to drop the boat
237
to a point at a little distance, where nothing was likely to dis-
turb us ; she had dropped down about forty yards when just
on the beach, a little above high water mark, I observed some
animal slowly moving along, and on nearing it, found that it
was a black or silver-hair fox. For sometime the fear of
alarming Mr. , who was then out of sight, kept me from
firing, but the beauty of the animal, and the hope of having the
skin, operated powerfully on my mind, and as my sight was
good, I levelled a boat's musket with swan shot, fired, and
laid Renard on his beam ends. The animal was scarcely down
when I became aware of my folly, for I observed both officers
and men running down the side of the hill ; at that moment I
felt sincerely sorry for what had taken place, for it was against
my strict orders, and if it had been his wish, Mr. E might
have had me very severely punished, but as in every case,
when he heard the whole story, he passed it over, and it was
soon forgotten ; the skin made a beautiful tippet. It was late
at night when we returned to the ship, and having completed
wood and water, on the 14th September, left the harbour
which the natives called Imorook, and which I believe is by
us named Trinity.
On the 5th, towards night, the wind freshened about 5, p. M.
we had just taken in the fore top-mast studding sail, when a man
who was unhooking the burton, slipped and fell overboard ;
" a man overboard," resounded from all parts of the ship, and
in a moment all hands were on deck. Every effort was made to
save him, life buoy let go, cutter lowered, but all was useless ;
the cutter got so near that the men could see him going down,
but he sunk before they could reach him. That same night
another man while doing something in the fore chains, slipped
overboard ; he fortunately got hold of the bite of the buoy
rope which was hanging well down, and after a good tow, was
safely hauled in ; when all was over, I said to him well S ,
what did you think about just now when you were hanging
over your grave ? " By George," said he, " I thought the
238
books were closed and I was a bankrupt ;" he was an intel-
ligent young man but thoughtless to a degree.
Next morning as the ship was beating into Kotzebue Sound,
on a low hill near the Gull Rock we observed the English
ensign, union down ; thinking whether it might not be Capt.
F 's party, our barge's crew, and the cutter was immediately
sent to ascertain who the sufferers were ; on landing we found
that it was the remains of our barge's crew ; some were missing.
Poor fellows they looked miserable, long beards and grief worn
faces ; several natives were standing by, one of them an old
man who had been busily employed in plundering the boat
after her loss, was ordered to be taken on board. Being old
I supposed I could lead him like a child, and stepped up to
him in order to bring him with me, but a moment convinced
me I had reckoned without my host, for finding what I came
for, the old man gave me one shove and sent me sprawling on
the ground, after which it took four of us to take him to the
boat ; the other natives doubtful of the intended fate of their
companion, bewailed his loss terribly, offering their skin frocks
for his release.
Of the loss of the barge I got the following account from her
coxswain, an intelligent young man, not long since dead ;
(( having got as far as we could for ice, we returned to Kotzebue
Sound in hope of finding the ship there, but not seeing her
we supposed some accident had befallen her ; our officer traded
with the natives for provisions, in order to secure as much
food for winter as it was possible to get ; a party were also
employed to collect wood, both for fuel and for building a
house. The barge was then anchored in the offing of a sandy
bay, on the outer edge of a shoal, a cable's length from the
shore, wind off the land. On the 7th, in the morning, the
officer landed with all hands but one man and a boy, leaving
orders that when dinner was ready they should make a signal.
During the forenoon the wind shifted in shore, but as it was
light, no apprehensions of her striking were entertained.
239
About 2, P. M,, we saw the man standing on the fore cuddy,
making signals, which our officers supposing to be for dinner,
ordered me to take the men to dinner and return as soon as it
was over, but on getting on board we found that she was tailing
in shore and had already struck very heavily, for the water
was level with her cabin. The dingy and two men were sent
to apprise the officer of our situation, but by the time she got
on shore all hopes of her coming back was over ; the wind
had risen to a gale ; our anchor had come home ; the barge
had drifted broadside on the shoal, and the sea making a fail-
breach over her. There were then on board four men and a
boy ; the natives seeing our distress, launched their bidairs, and
three times had them turned bottom up, at last they gave it
up in despair; the men on board had nothing but death
before them, either from cold or drowning. About 4, her
casks and barrels came floating on shore ; Thomas U not
being able to swim, got her main boom and one of her sweeps,
lashed them together and allowed the next sea to wash him
off her decks, but a rope caught his foot, the spars slipped
from under him and he perished ; his body was picked up ten
days afterwards and buried directly. S another man who
was a good swimmer gave himself up to a heavy swell and
swam with all his might and had got a good footing when a
drawback took him away into deep water and he sunk to rise
no more.
Only two men and one boy remained ; these having lashed
the boy in the main rigging sat one on each side of the cross-
trees and remained there, the sea often beating over them.
The poor boy soon became senseless with cold and fatigue,
slipped through his lashings into the cabin, from which the
next sea took him and he never was seen again. About 2,
A. M. it moderated and two of the men got off in the little
boat ; supposing the men at her mast head dead, they cut the
lashing which held them, and they both dropped into the
bottom of the boat senseless ; they were taken on shore, where a
240
keg of rum had just drifted, and were then rubbed all over
with spirits, and a little poured down their throats, which
recovered them ; the officers also kindly purchased skin
clothing from the natives, which under Providence greatly
tended to their recovery ; two men and one boy perished by
this unfortunate disaster.
Strange that notwithstanding the various instances of
mortality which we daily meet, by some unaccountable in-
fatuation we forget that we are born to die ; death comes
when least expected, and frequently, as in this case, we conclude
our career in the very meridian of our existence ; and while
we drop the sympathetic tear over the watery grave of our
poor bargemen, let charity incline us to throw a veil over
their foibles, whatever they may have been, and not withhold
from their memory the praise their merits claim. Perfection
on earth has never been attained ; the wisest and the very best
of men have erred ; their good actions let us imitate, and from
their weakness derive instruction.
241
CHAPTER XX.
KOTZKBtJE SOUND, SECOND VISIT, &C.
AFTER the loss of the barge, the crew with their officer re-
mained in the hollow of a rock for some days ; during which
all that would float from her came on shore. The natives
were friendly, and gave them fish and deer's flesh : the officers
purchased skin frocks and trousers from them to clothe those
who had either come on shore nearly naked, or had lost their
clothes since. When one part of her came on shore, from
which the natives could extract copper or iron, they took it
away without once considering the dishonesty of the act, which
was the reason of the old man having been sent on board
the ship. It however strikes me forcibly, that any English-
man exposed to like temptation, and setting equal value on
the articles thus cast at his feet, would have done the same
thing. During the two visits to Behring's Straits, I had many
opportunities of observing the manners and the habits of the
natives, and in my little dealings with them, however small,
I never saw the slightest inclination to dishonesty, or ever to
over-reach in a bargain. I recollect well one day that the
cutter was laying on shore waiting for the water casks to be
rolled off to her, that I, by accident, dropped a tin pot over-
board ; the tide was flowing, and as we shortly left the place,
I supposed it to be lost, as it was a trifle, but the next day one
of the Esquimaux who had seen me drop it overboard, brought
242
it to me ; impressed with a sense of his honesty, I gave it to
the man, who went away delighted with his acquisition.
For some days we were employed in getting such articles
from the wreck of the barge as could be got up, among which
were some small arms, a cask of pork, but damaged, and part
of her chain cable ; but one night the wind rose to a gale, and
the remains of her were washed up high and dry on the beach.
Again winter approached with rapid strides, the thermometer
sunk to 23 i ; both officers and men were anxious to quit these
inhospitable regions and seek more genial latitudes. Wooding
and watering was completed as quick as possible, and the ship
prepared for sea. A few days previous to our sailing, the
cutter was ordered to go surveying a distant part of the strait,
the Captain went in her. About eleven in the forenoon we
landed near Hutpeak, to erect a mark for Captain Franklin ;
about a mile and a half from it we found a large rock of a
French grey colour, but so thickly studded with garnets,
that it was impossible to number them ; few of the men saw
it, but during an hour that I was at the spot I took out above
one hundred garnets, some of them very large ; some of the
officers got a beautiful collection, a fine piece of the rock was
taken to the ship. As we sat on the beach getting our dinners
by a fine fire, a bidair full of natives hove in sight ; being
doubtful of their intentions, and considering their superior
numbers, the men were ordered to finish their meals as quickly
as possible ; which done, the boat shoved off and returned to
the ship.
September 29th, 1827 3 ever memorable to any of the ship's
company who were then on shore, when seven of our crew
were badly wounded and two of the natives lost 'their lives.
At 10, A. M., the cutter was sent on shore with twenty-three
small casks for water at the Eastern end of Chamisson,
and as it was a mere drip that ran down, it took a length of
time to fill even this small quantity, so that at noon not more
than eight were filled ; the cutter was therefore taken on board
243
for the men to have their dinners, leaving two men to continue
filling till our return.
We had only been on board a short time when one of the
native bidairs came round the point, and paddled directly
towards the spot where our men were watering, and there
landed. There were in her eleven persons that we could see;
as soon as the circumstance was made known to the Captain,
he ordered the cutter to go on shore under the command of
an officer; supposing from what had occurred about the
barge that the natives might be tempted to annoy our men.
On landing, we found them busily employed in rolling
down the hill, and returning the empty casks, and disposed to
be very friendly. Our men had that morning made a fire
from the wreck of the barge, and some small copper nails
having been burnt out were laying among the ashes; the
natives coveted them much, but did not touch one until given
to them, in return for rolling a cask down. Our officer
not satisfied of their friendly intentions, kept making signs
for them to leave the spot, but they either did not for
some time understand or would not, for they remained for a
considerable time ; at last one of them the oldest in the boat,
tapping with his flat hand on the earth, endeavoured to make
us sensible that the land was his, and the sea ours, but
having as he supposed failed, he spoke to the rest, and all
went to their boat, and lay about twenty yards from the
water's edge, making signs of friendship, and offering arti-
cles of traffic. I was at some distance, but observing a
disturbance, and seeing the natives come on shore, and run
up to the rocks that bounded the sandy bay in which we
stood, I ran down to the boat, and was told that a musket
had been fired at the natives, that it was supposed one was
wounded, which was the cause of the present hubbub ; be that
as it may, while we were getting to our muskets, which were
laying in the bow of the cutter, a shower of arrows flew about
us, wounding two of our men, one of which died some months
244
after, from the effects of the wound and a hot climate ; seventy
rounds of ball cartridge were expended. I received an arrow
wound in my left side, the marks of which are visible to this
day, and the effect I fear I shall feel to my dying hour ; pro-
videntially it had to go through so many articles of clothing,
that its power was greatly diminished. The cold I felt in
going off produced a numbness that made me fear their arrows
were poisoned, happy indeed and truly thankful to God it
proved otherwise; as soon as possible, the casks full and
empty were put into the boats, taken to the ship, and the
wounded taken the most particular care of; indeed Mr. C
never appeared so much in his element as when setting at the
dispensary door attending his patients. A guard boat was
left round the island all night, and the next day being Sunday,
their bidair which had been taken away the day before, was
returned to them and every thing in her as it was found, and
they soon left the island, but two less in number than had
landed. We began a search for the dead, and in a deep ravine,
between two hills, laying on the snow with their heads pillowed
by their bows and arrows, we found two dead bodies ; one
had a ball through his forehead, the other through the breast ;
it was a painful sight and there we left them.
The strength of their bows, and their still more powerful arms
which bend them is really astonishing. An Esquimaux with
his bow, is more to be feared than a man with a boat's musket,
for their mark is sure ; they bend it with ease, while I who
was then one of the strongest men in the ship, was obliged to
put one end of the bow to my shoulder, and the other against
a rock, before I could make it ply at all. During the day
not one arrow was fired, at less than one hundred yards;
although seven were wounded, I do not mean to infer
that any blame could be attached to either side ; probably
from not understanding us on the one side, and an over desire
to fulfil duty on the other, might have caused the unfortunate
affair which was represented in so many ways, that it was dif-
245
ficult to get at the real truth for a length of time. The
weather was now becoming severe, and almost constant falls
of snow made it quite necessary that we should leave ; none
left with regret, or if such a sensation did arise it was at our
not having gone quite through the straits. On the 4th of
October, 1827, weighed, and beat out of the sound; it was
not till past midnight that the ship was clear out. Sunday,
6th, heavy breezes and thick mizzling rain. About 1 1, 30,
A. M., the masthead-man reported " thick water ahead ;" a
hand was immediately ordered in the chain, his first cast
was quarter less six, the second one, a quarter four. Only
a few minutes before that, the patent lead had denoted twenty-
two on its index. Mr. E wished to keep her right before
the wind, but the Captain differed with him in opinion and
ordered the ship to be hauled close to the wind, and within
ten minutes she was again in 22 fathoms. Mr. G , the
carpenter, who was at that moment doing something in the
cabin declared that she touched, and that he positively saw
her rudder rise ; such might possibly have been the case, but
the shock must have been very slight, had it been heavy, not
a soul on board would have lived to tell the dreadful tale.
The sea was so high that our boats would have been of no
use for such a number of men and the cold so severe.
At 4, A. M. we got out of the straits, hoping never more to see
the inside of them. After a fine passage on or about the 24th
of November, we made land, Monte Rey, Coast of California ;
next day came to in the bay, found a great number of vessels
laying here, among whom was our old friend the Active of
Boston, with a general cargo. From her we got some rum,
a messenger and other rope, and from the shore several English
newspapers were sent off to the Captain and Officers ; one
gave us the melancholy news of the death of H. R. Highness
the Duke of York, and another the pleasing news that Capt.
Franklin after experiencing great sufferings had returned to
England ; by this all hands were relieved from an oppressive
246
weight, the dread of another visit to Behring's Straits. The
news when first communicated to all hands caused such an
uproar in the ship, that it was long before any thing like
order was restored, and though at a vast distance home rose
before our eyes with redoubled charms ; every heart beat high
with anticipated happiness, and we could almost in fancy
behold the roof where dwelt some friend or partner dear, in
fact we were " homeward bound/ 5
247
CHAPTER XXI.
Our canvas spread and away we go,
And then huzza for England ho,
" For England ho."
OUR slight repairs, &c. being completed, about the 6th of
December we left Monte Rey, and in five days anchored in
San Blass, among several vessels found laying here was a small
schooner, the Britannia, of Southampton, only 52 tons regis-
ter, a proof of how small a vessel may navigate round Cape
Horn ; here a beautiful collection of shells was procured. Some
of the muscle shells we got measured twenty three inches and
a half in length; several tons of money and many bales of cochi-
neal were shipped on board. The cutter was busily employed
in watering the ship, which as she had to come a great dis-
tance, was an arduous undertaking for a boat of her size.
The place from which our water was procured was a river about
1 3 miles, up which we had to go ; I think it was the 1 7th,
that early in the morning we left the ship and proceeded
upwards to the watering place, when about two thirds of the
way up, the boat grounded nearly in the centre of the stream ;
the tide was fast ebbing, and at low water we found ourselves
perched upon a high muscle bank, on both sides of which
248
there was sufficient water to float the boat ; on each side of
the river the scenery was beautiful, a gentle ascent of about
twelve feet opened on an immense plain where the land was
covered with verdure, and here and there a grove of tale pines
with a straggling Indian hut ; at the head of the river was a
Spanish Mission, in front of which large herds of cattle were
grazing. While thus waiting for the flood to make and float
us off, our men and myself among the number were amusing
ourselves on the bank, picking and cleaning the large muscles
with which it abounded ; some were even about to bathe when
our officer saw several alligators sunning themselves on its
banks ; his first care was to call every man into the boat and
keep them close, allowing no one to stir out ; we certainly had
seven muskets and plenty of ball cartridge, but considering
the thickness of the skins of these animals our muskets would
have been useless. Our fears in this instance were without
ground, for not one approached the boat, and an old Indian
who spoke a little Spanish, with whom I conversed that after-
noon, told rne that alligators seldom or ever molest men, get-
ting a plentiful supply of cattle that come to the water's edge
to drink ; it was late when we returned to the ship.
Christmas, the third since our departure from home, and by
far the happiest ; double allowance of spirits was served to
every one on board, and as far as eatables went, all were con-
tented. 28th, sailed in search of a vessel that had money for
us, and on the 6th January re-anchored in San Blass ; this day
one of our men died from drinking bad spirits to excess. A
few months previous to our arrival here a decree had passed
the supreme court, ordering every Spaniard, native of the
mother country, to quit the state within five months under
pain of death. Several plots having been formed against the
existing government, of which old Spaniards v, ere found to
be the head ; in consequence of this decree an old gentleman,
a native of Spain who possessed good property bought an
English brig and as per agreement paid down one third of
the purchase money ; only a few days afterwards the poor man
died suddenly, and under circumstances so suspicious, that
little doubt appeared to exist, but that he had died by poison.
Within a few hours the Mexican Government made a seizure
of the whole of his property, including the brig with it, which
was mostly English property; fortunately the master got
intelligence of the seizure before it took place, and securing
his money in a trunk, buried it round the point under a heap
of stones, where it was found on our arrival. The affair under
the superintendence of our Captain was soon settled, and all
was right again.
While surveying the bay, the lead was accidentally dropped
on a rock, the existence of which the oldest inhabitant was
ignorant of; a large buoy was moored on it and the ship's
name cut on the buoy. A party of men were kept employed
cutting wood for fuel, which was brought off daily ; among the
wood brought on the last evening, was the root of an old tree,
which the captain of the hold found too clumsy to stow away
among his casks ; he gave it to the ship's cook, who put one
end into the copper hole in order to lessen it. Scarcely had
the heat penetrated it, when a swarm of bees flew out of
ti and took possession of the galley ; all who could, fled in
all directions, but the poor old one-armed cook not being so
quick as the rest, the whole swarm settled on him ; there
was the poor old man standing upright and all parts of his
body, not excepting his eyes, covered completely with bees;
thus he stood for several minutes, till burning rag was applied,
the dense smoke from which almost smothered him, but
dislodged his troublesome companions, and strange to tell only
one stung him. Late in January, weighed for Acapulco;
nothing material occurred during the passage, and we anchored
early in March in a fine sandy bay. The town which was
formerly one of the best along the coast is now dwindled
to nothing more than a large village ; it has so long been the
seat of civil war, that houses, churches, palaces, all are laying
R
250
in ruins, battered down by the shot and shell of the enemy,
from batteries erected on the tops of the adjacent mountains.
The inhabitants of the upper class are natives of old Spain,
or their immediate descendants, but the lower orders, from
their constant intercourse with Indians are of much the
same colour and filthy habits ; the females particularly have
scarcely one redeeming quality, sunk to the very lowest, they
may be seen squatted at all parts with their children slung on
their backs; fruit is abundant and excellent, and the climate
delightful. Bolivar, in an account he gives of Mexico, written
in Spanish, speaks of it as if peace, plenty, and independence
had left the shores of Europe to settle on these delightful
regions. His description may suit the Spaniards, but on my
walking round the town, I thought it horribly exaggerated.
On the 28th, weighed for Valparaiso, and on the 1st of May,
ran into the bay where H. M. S. Doris cheered our very hearts
with Rule Britannia, from a band, which sounded doubly
pleasing from our length of absence ; here again we had letters
from our dear friends at home.
Only a few months previous to our arrival, a shock of an
earthquake had destroyed nearly three hundred houses ; in one
spot it had left a deep chasm twenty three feet across. The
damage done was very great, but most of the houses knocked
down were either rebuilding or rebuilt, and as the calamity
took place early in the evening, a slight warning saved num-
bers of lives. On the third anniversary of our leaving England,
namely, ! 9th May, about 18 miles from Coquimbo, a shock of
an earthquake was felt on board the ship ; to all appearance
it seemed as if the chain cable was running fast through the
hawse, of course all hands rushed on deck alarmed, but some
officers who had before witnessed such a circumstance soon
set all to rights. At 5, p. M., anchored in the Bay of Coquimbo ;
very providentially just before we moored the ship, the word
was given to beat to quarters, and according to orders the well
was sounded at that time, and a report made to the first
251
Lieutenant. On sounding, the carpenter was dreadfully
alarmed to find his line denote four feet eight inches of water
in the hold : he ran up and acquainted the first Lieutenant ;
the chain pumps and hand pumps were manned, while the
carpenter went into the hold to find the leak. After a long
search, it was ascertained that the cock in the ship's bottom
was turned, and running with full force ; how it came turned
no one could form any idea, for the decks had not been washed
that day. It was laid upon the shock of the earthquake ; be
that as it may, if the carpenter had neglected to sound, it is
more than probable that the ship would have gone down, and
not a soul known the cause ; as it was she was moored, and
all well again.
Coquimbo, a fine large bay, nearly land locked, and taking-
all its qualities into consideration is far superior to Valparaiso ;
the town of La Terena which skirts the bay, has from the sea
a beautiful appearance, but like most towns hereabouts, it has
its full share of filth. Of all the boats we had yet seen, if they
could be called boats, those of Coquimbo were the most
curious ; they are made of four seal skins sewed to each other
in pairs, endways, and so secured by sewing every part from
which air could escape, that they are made buoyant to a great
degree ; the two pair of skins are laid side by side and secured
by two cross pieces ; on this, one, two, and sometimes three
persons will sit, with baskets of fruit, eggs, bread, &c. A
pipe made of very flexible skin is put into one end of each
pair, to which is attached a smaller bone tube ; should the
sitters find the air escaping, and themselves getting down
towards the water on either side, they have only to put the
tube in the mouth and blow away ; the skins fill and they find
themselves high out of the water, and capable of using the
paddle again. During our stay, these Balsas supplied us with
fruit, &c. ; I might several times have taken a passage on
shore in one of them, but I considered myself too near home
to tempt any of the numerous sharks that inhabit the bay.
R2
252
In this place, the Mexican mining company have a smelting
house from which the copper is shipped in foreign bottoms.
Some days after our arrival I was sent on shore on duty, and
on landing addressed myself to a respectable looking Spaniard
for some information I required, who after having given it me
entered into conversation, chiefly about the ship and her
voyage. There was standing at some distance, but near
enough to hear what passed, an English gentleman, whom
from having seen him on board, I soon recognized as a Mr. C ,
agent to the company; I took no notice but walked on
some distance, when on looking round I observed him fol-
lowing me; supposing he wished to ask some question I
slackened my pace, when Mr. C addressing me, said
"you speak Spanish very well young man," not very Sir,
but just enough to make myself understood ; ah, continued
he "this is the country that would just suit you, and here
your services would be well paid ; I wish I had you here,
what do you say, will you stay with me ; I will insure you
thirty eight dollars a month, and an Indian to wait on you/'
I considered for one moment, whether Mr. C was or was
not trying me, but finding him in earnest, and fearful he might
suppose that I for one moment wavered, I slewed round
and looking at him firmly said ; are you aware sir that I
belong to that discovery ship ? " Oh yes 3 ' said Mr. C ,
" but in an hour I will send that Indian with you to a place
which all the men in the navy could not find, even if they
dared to seek you." I feel much inclined to doubt sir, said I,
if Captain would like to hear you use such language to
one of his men ; in one word sir, I have a family in England
who are expecting me with the deepest anxiety, and with
equal affection I desire to see them, add to which I have four
years pay due, I could not on any terms consent to your pro-
posal. Capt. has been to me more than a friend ; a debt
of gratitude binds me to him by ties nothing can break ; he
has ever treated me with particular kindness, I could not
253
repay it by such base ingratitude as to leave him now. " You
are a curious fellow," said Mr. C , " but here is a dollar
for you, say nothing of what is past, and upon consideration
should you change your mind, go to the smelting house."
Two days after Mr. C dined on board the ship, and
seeing me, cast at me a penetrating look, which seemed to
say, I hope you have held your tongue.
One Sunday I obtained twenty-four hours leave ; there were
about twenty who obtained the same privilege, but our objects
were different; I changed my clothes and proceeded into the
country ; I had walked about four miles when I overtook an
elderly gentleman whom from his costume I knew to be a
native of old Spain ; for some moments we walked close to
each other, at last I made some slight observation on the
beauty of the weather, and from thence sprung a conversation
which seemed pleasing to him. A mile from the place of our
meeting we arrived at a neatly white washed cottage, which
he informed me was his habitation, and requested me to walk
in ; I did go in, and, for the dwelling of a Spaniard, was really
surprised at the cleanliness of all around, in fact it may have
been taken for the house of a person of the middle rank in
England : reader, I wore not then the garb of a common sea-
man, or I could not have gained admission into such company,
as I sought to cultivate. The old gentleman introduced me to
his daughter and an antiquated old maid, whom he called
his sister, and who with all the airs of a girl of eighteen, was
nevertheless very kind and good tempered. Fruit, wine, cakes,
and cheese were laid upon the table, I was pressed to eat, and
after my long walk did ample justice to the cheer. All were
delighted to find an Englishman who could speak their tongue,
and above all tell them something about old Spain. How
strongly implanted in the human breast is the love of home ;
while talking of Seville the old gentleman actually shed tears.
To a man enclosed for years within wooden walls, such
society as I was then in is truly pleasing, but when a lovely
254
female is added to its number it is delightful. Time passed
unobserved, I rose to go, when the old gentleman putting his
hand on my arm said, "stop, pray do, we have just formed a
pleasing acquaintance, and we part thus soon ; now tell me
truly when must you be on board?" to-morrow at noon said I,
well then be a Spaniard for once, stop under my roof and such
as it affords we will give you, and thank you for your society ;
and to-morrow I will give you a horse, and an Indian to lead
you to the landing place ; Theresa too joined her persuasions ;
who could resist, I could not, and for the first time from my
leaving my own dear little hearth, I enjoyed the luxury of a
feather bed.
I never could account for it, but a short time in pleasing
company suffices to set me at ease and make me feel at home ;
a ramble in his well planted garden, and a friendly chat quite
unreserved, made us as well known to each other as if we had
been years together ; coffee and cakes were brought in, the
guitar followed, and although I have no ear for music, the
tones seemed sweet ; it was late when we separated for the
night, and when we did so it was as friends long known.
Before breakfast the next morning the old gentleman was
busy pruning a vine that grew luxuriantly in front of his cot-
tage, and covered with its leaves the upper part of the house ;
after a little talk he pointed to the remains of a monastery
about a mile off, which he said he would take me to after
breakfast if I chose to go ; adding it was but a short walk and
the ladies would accompany us. An Indian woman came to
say breakfast was ready ; the table was well set out, there was
no tea, but excellent coffee, fish fried, beefsteaks, new bread,
wine, and fruit ; upon the whole it is what a Frenchman would
rail un dejeune a la fourchette and well calculated to raise the
spirits of any of John Bull's sons. From the conversation
which passed during breakfast, I gathered that the old man
was not rich, but possessed a sufficiency to live respected
and independent, and his distance from the town where there
255
was no high road, made society scarce, and when obtained
pleasing.
When breakfast was over it was proposed to go to the Casa
de San Juan ; it was merely the wreck left by an earthquake
some years before ; one end of it had been completely rent to
the ground, in consequence of which the Nuns had been
removed to some more secure retreat. It was not however left
desolate ; even in its dilapidated state, a few monks were still
living within its walls, who if one may judge from the look of
their reverences, lived well, and certainly our reception proved
them willing to share the good things they possessed ; they
led us to all parts of the building, some of which were barely
safe ; here we saw the cells formerly occupied by the Nuns,
only nine feet by seven, a small space for a woman to live in ;
plenty of room for meditation certainly, but little for walking.
The chapel was entire and kept in good order, the altar piece,
a representation of our Saviour in the arms of the Virgin, was
I think the finest I ever saw ; it had been executed by an
Italian, purchased at an immense price and presented to the
chapel by an old female devotee who was very rich. In the
course of conversation with an old monk, I asked him if
he did not find his life pass away drearily without female
society ; playfully tapping me on the shoulder, he said " and
how know you that such is the case," oh I beg pardon said
I, and was silent. On my return to the cottage, I had less
than three hours to spare, and, as I deem it a great folly for
seamen to break their leave, as it not only injures them in the
opinion of their officers, but prevents future indulgence, I
prepared to go, but nothing could induce the family to part
with me until I had taken some refreshment, and promised,
if it was possible, to visit them again. At the door a horse
was ready, and an Indian on another to guide me, and bring
the horse back. Now though I have been riding so many years
on a wooden horse, one of flesh and blood annoys me terribly ;
rather, however, than shew my want of knowledge, I mounted
256
the animal, who sensible I was not his proper rider, carried
me but a little way, took to capering, and at last fairly ran
from under me, leaving me to follow at leisure. The Indian
soon brought him back, but I was determined never to risk
my neck on his back again, so walked the rest of the way.
On quitting him, I gave the Indian a few pieces of money,
value about one shilling, for which he appeared thankful, and
went away highly pleased. I then went to the house of an
Englishman who worked for the company, and having re-
sumed my seafaring dress, packed my gentleman's dress in a
handkerchief and hastened on board, where I arrived in good
time, and the first of those who had gone on leave.
That, by assuming a dress, I was not entitled to, I had done
wrong I am ready to acknowledge ; but whom had I injured ?
none, only improved myself and obtained admission into com-
pany such as suited my ideas. In all this, there was nothing
criminal ; how often in the course of life may we observe, that
under the guise of dress, the greatest villain, who has probably
for years been plotting against the lives and properties of his
fellow subjects, obtains access into the most respectable
circles of society with perfect security, while a man every way
his superior, in mean clothing, passes unnoticed to the grave.
From my first joining the service I never went on shore on
pleasure without changing my dress, and never in one instance
was I likely to suffer for my disguise, if such it could be called.
Many years ago while serving in a flag ship in the Mediter-
ranean, it being the carnival, one of the greatest festivals of
the year in Malta, and a time for masquerading ; myself and
a young man, who was then only an A. B. but now holds a
respectable rank in the service, agreed to go to the masquerade ;
we were both on forty-eight hours leave, and therefore had
sufficient time to enjoy ourselves and the expence but trifling.
It was rather late when we applied for dresses ; those that
would have suited us were all gone, none remained but sailor
and soldier's uniforms, and one domino ; of course to rig as
257
a soldier never entered my head, and as no alternation pre-
sented itself, we both agreed to take the naval uniform, though
mine was by far too grand ; I would gladly have exchanged it
for one with less bullion ; as it was we both determined to act
" gentlemen" for the night.
Thus equipped, we paraded the room and streets, taking
care to avoid those whom we supposed to be our officers. Our
enjoyment certainly came up to our expectations ; it was laugh-
able to see the mistakes that took place, some females in
masks, addressing us as either brothers, friends, or sweethearts.
About eleven, most of the masks had left ; of the few that
remained, one in the habit of a Turk, closely masked, came
up to us and addressing himself to me, began conversing, and
wished to persuade me he knew me well as an old friend, and
kindly invited me to drink Sherbet with him. This of course
we declined, for just at that moment we discovered that our
new friend was a Mr. G , an officer of marines attached
to our own ship ; of course we both endeavoured to retreat,
but as no fair plea offered, we had to remain above an hour,
when at parting Mr. G still supposing us friends, invited
us to breakfast with him at Severio's, then one of the first
coffee houses in the island ; thus for a time ended our cruise.
Our leave ended, we returned to the ship, and in a few days
it was forgotten, or if ever brought to recollection, it was
only to smile at our freak. Not so with my companion, he
happened to drop some hints, which reaching the ears of
Mr. G , he sent for me and asked me a great many
questions, and from my answers could not but be convinced
that I was one of those whom he had so kindly invited to
breakfast. Supposing his dignity hurt, Mr. G went to
the Captain and made a serious complaint of the whole. It
was on a Sunday morning, just as the church bell was tolling.
Immediately after church, the Captain sent for me and asked
me if I was at the masquerade last carnival and what dress I
wore. Capt. S was passionate to a degree, but when
258
cool, would hear reason ; I would not, if I could, have deceived
him, so commenced from the beginning, and stated the whole
affair; when I told him the uniform I wore, he could not
suppress a smile, and I concluded by stating that Mr. G
had forced himself into our company and invited us both to
breakfast, but that as our leave was expired, we thought it
best to decline the kind offer. The Captain considered for
a moment, and turning to me with a countenance as serious
as he could put on, said, " NOW listen to me gents, if ever
Mr. G invites you to breakfast again, and you think pro-
per to disappoint him, by I will give you four dozen."
I bowed and went below ; I saw Mr. G soon after who
gave me a look, it would be difficult to interpret : thus ended
the first, I trust I may say last visit to such a place.
But to return to Coquimbo, the inhabitants, like those of
the neighbouring parts, are half Spaniard and half Indian.
While on duty on shore, one day I saw the lady of the Mexi-
can Agent standing at her door ; I had heard several persons
say that she was the handsomest woman in the States , I
passed close to her and thought the same. Her person was
beyond description ; about a quarter of an hour afterwards I
passed by again, the lady was still there, but ah, how altered,
she was then smoking a vile paper cigar, and firing the smoke
out through her nostrils ; in one moment all ideas of beauty
vanished. What an employment for a beautiful woman.
June 1st, left Coquimbo to go round Cape Horn ; the season
was bad, and the weather severe, but we got round very well ;
however on the 6th July, off the coast of Brazil, we fell in
with what is called a pampero or sudden gale, which lasted
eight hours, and kept us under bare poles. About 9, A. M., I
was securing a gasket, which was nearly adrift on the main
yard-arm, when pulling too hard it gave way, and before I
could recover myself, it threw me off the yard ; I fell into a
cutter on the booms, her canvas cover broke my fall, and I
found myself in the boat's bottom almost unhurt ; another
259
wonderful preservation and proof of the watchful care of a
kind providence.
About the middle of July, the ship anchored in Rio ; with
what different feelings we entered the harbour at this time ;
we had now been above three years from England and were
homeward bound once more.
260
CHAPTER XXII.
Oh joyful hour, when to our longing home
The long expected time at length draws nigh ;
When the first sound goes forth we come, we come,
And hope's impatience quickens every eye.
Never had man whom Heaven would heap with bliss.
More glad return, more happy hour than this.
OLD QUARTERMASTER.
JUST at this time a serious disturbance had taken place be-
tween the inhabitants and some Irish troops, lately enlisted ;
our anchor was scarcely down, when a signal was made for
all our marines to land, (a goodly number, we had thirteen)
but they were to accompany those of the Ganges, as also
those from several French ships lying here. It apeared that
an officer of rank, belonging to the Brazilian service, had been
sent to Ireland to recruit men, and had, by permission, en-
listed a considerable number, who were to serve exactly in the
same manner as the Militia in England; for some time the regu-
lations agreed upon were observed, but at last an order arrived
that a certain number of these troops were to be enrolled in
each of the black regiments under the crown ; this proved a
261
terrible blow to Paddy Bull, who little expected such an in-
fringement on his articles of service ; a hasty consultation
was soon held, and instead of submitting to the order, they
all rushed into one of the batteries, got full possession of it,
and turned the guns upon the City. For two whole days the
uproar was indescribable, trade ceased, the shops were closed,
and the town almost deserted; in the mean time repeated
interviews took place between the English Resident, R. G
Esq. and Don Pedro, at whose intercession the affair was
settled, and all arrears of pay, and a free discharge given
them with a vessel to convey them whither they wished to go.
Numbers of lives were lost, but to the very great exertions of
the Ambassador may be attributed the safety of the town,
and thousands more, for there were then one thousand Aus-
trian troops there, whose time of service had expired, and who
being dreadfully in arrears of pay, would gladly have helped
to pay themselves ; the officer who had enlisted them was cut
to pieces, and report said that 250 lives had been lost.
Our refit having been completed, and the Ambassador on
board, on the 3rd of August, 18 , the ship was towed out
of harbour, by the boats of the English and French ships
laying in Rio, and after a fine passage, on the 26th September,
18 , the chain again rattled through the hawse, and the
anchor went down at Spithead, after an absence of three years
four months and seven days, it being thirty one months since
the date of our last letters. I never in my life recollect
having experienced such anxious feelings as I felt that day ; I
was then in sight of home, without knowing what might be
the news I should get ; however my anxiety was soon relieved,
for about an hour after the anchor was down, a respectable
waterman came alongside with a letter to the Captain, which
having delivered, he came to me, said, fe pray is not your name
B ?" Yes, said I, ee well then, two hours since I saw your
family in good health ;" thank ye, said I, will you take some
grog ? and putting a case bottle of rum before him, said there
262
drink what you can, and take away the rest ; happy accents
to hear after such a trying voyage, that all were well ; I some-
times even now see the man, and look on him with gratitude.
In the afternoon I saw my family, for about one hour. Dis-
patches arrived for the ship to go to Woolwich, we went round
and having got our powder out, the ship was lashed alongside
the Athalian, and on the 17th October, we were paid off.
Before I left the ship, the Captain called me into his cabin,
and presented me with a written certificate of good conduct,
&c., desiring me to meet him at the Admiralty the next day.
I did so, and was presented to Mr. -, a near relation of
the Captain's ; the Captain saying, " here R is the man I
spoke to you about ;" ef very well/' said the gentleman, " I
will not forget him," but memory will at times prove treach-
erous ; I never heard a word more of it.
I was at that time still suffering severely from a wound got
in Kotzebue's Sound, and therefore glad to take a few weeks
rest ; though the period must necessarily be short, for the sum
I had to take was not very great, having received six months
advance. Early in November, I met a Lieutenant who was
entering men for the Coast Blockade, set up for the pre-
vention of smuggling, he asked me if I should like to join it,
saying he thought it would just suit me ; sensible how much
superior a ship of war was to a merchant ship in my present
rank, I accepted the offer, and on the 5th November was on
the books of the H , and after ten days leave, myself and
eighteen more were sent round to her, and very soon after
all ranked up before the Captain, who asked each one in turn
several questions as to seamanship, servitude, &c., warned us
that any one who rigidly obeyed his orders was sure of reward,
as those who acted otherwise were of punishment ; there was
in his language a certain open plainness that no one could
misunderstand ; it was the blunt unvarnished word of truth,
and as I afterwards found, any one who liked might be very
comfortable ; and even in this very arduous duty I should have
263
been contented, but from the effects of my wounds, particu-
larly the one in my side, which was almost constant pain to
me, and seemed to knaw my very vitals.
My first appointment was to take charge of the harbour at
Little Hampton, where my only duty was to board all boats
and vessels that came in ; it was only tide work, and to sit in
a boat was comparatively easy. During my stay at this place,
a great many French vessels came in ; some of them driven
in off the fishing grounds by foul weather, others under the
guise of bad weather, came in for smuggling; these were
searched, but all as yet, had been found with only ballast or
fruit, eggs, &c. About Christmas, the first winter of my
being on the Blockade, as it was called, one fine morning, a
French Chasse Maree was seen standing in towards the har-
bour's mouth. My little boat was manned to go and board
tier ; as I was going down to the boat I met Lieutenant A ,
then the divisional officer, who having the inspection of four-
teen watch houses, among which was ours, was a great man
among us. Seeing me hurrying down to the beach, Mr,
A said to me " well B , are you going to talk French
to this Frenchman ?" No, no sir, said I, a Frenchman never
gets a word of French from me on this service, till 1 see it
serves my purpose, but surely not in this case, for by a still
tongue, important information may be procured; thus we
parted. On getting on board, I saw three men on her deck,
the master was at the helm ; I addressed him in English with
" I wish to see your papers," which he not understanding called
a man from forward to interpret, on which the master went
down, brought them up, and putting them in my hand said,
" les voila mon ami" not choosing to understand him, I said
nothing, and kept the papers topsy turvy, which the master
observing, said to the man, ee he has got them bottom up, and
then I suppose he will search the hold," to which the man
replied " c'est egal, we have nothing in now" laying particular
emphasis on the word, now ; ah, thought I, you either have
264
had, or will have, and from this altered my plan of searching
the vessel, and merely contented myself with lifting up the
hold, without even entering his cabin. Seeing how little I
troubled him, he said to his interpreter " c'est la un bon gar con"
desiring him to offer me some brandy, which of course I re-
fused, but allowed each of the men in my boat to take a glass.
I returned to the shore, and stated to my officer the whole
affair. Mr. A seemed perfectly satisfied, and told me to
keep a good look out for his coming again ; sometime after he
did return with above two thousand pounds worth of brandy,
silks, tea and tobacco, but about a week before, I had been
removed to Bognor. The Custom house boat got the prize.
The effects of heavy walking soon affected my wounds, and
within a few weeks of my arrival at Bognor, I was entirely
laid up. In May the Surgeon finding me unable to perform
the arduous duty of my station, requested that I might be
sent to the Griper where I could sit in a boat and of course
have less walking. I was accordingly sent there, and was
soon joined by my family, and here for some time I was
pretty comfortable having them with me ; but again my
side rendered me unfit for duty, and after a course of medicine
and the greatest attention from Mr. W , the Surgeon, as
also from Mr. C , the Commander, it was found necessary
to send me to the frigate for survey. To a person in my then
state of health, with such a distance to travel, it was a heavy
undertaking ; however I was allowed when walking, to do so
slowly, and where it could possibly be done, a boat was sent
with me to the next station. It was late in December when
I got to the ship, and a few days after all the Surgeons
attached to the ship were assembled to consult on my case,
when it was decided that nothing but undergoing an ope-
ration could give me ease from the almost constant pain I
suffered. On the 23rd of December, 18 , the operation of
Moxa was performed on my side by the late much respected
Doctor B -, assisted by several others ; it burnt twelve
265
minutes and some seconds, and Doctor B gave me credit
for bearing it with more firmness than any one he had ever
seen ; my mind had been fully made up for it a day before,
and although the pain was intolerable, I never moved. For
about a week all sense of feeling was lost, but from that period
my health gradually recovered, and although I lost much of my
strength, I have never been so bad since, though still suffering
at times. I have frequently thought that totally abstaining
from spirits, tended greatly to my recovery ; however, I may
be situated, no inducement shall force me to drink it ; still
total abstinence is a system I would not enforce at sea, for
nothing is so likely to cause disturbance on board a ship, and
if ever it is to be done, it must be by almost imperceptible
degrees ; still, if men in general, knew the comforts which
flow from a constant state of sobriety, and the benefit of an
unbroken thread of reflection, I think many would try it ; and
to such I would say, that as I never taste spirits, so I never
feel the need of it. To be sensible of what you are about, and
ready to perform any duty, imparts a force of mind that mis-
fortune cannot depress sobriety is a friend at home; an
introduction abroad; and in society an ornament. I have
sometimes heard men say, what are you to do in bad weather,
without something to support you and cheer your spirits ? To
that man I would say, that I have shared in every climate, the
heat and the cold, hunger and thirst, with a temper as un-
ruffled as any one in the ship ; but I have observed that for
an hour after the grog was served out, men were ready to fly ;
the duty was easily performed, but at the expiration of that
hour, the thermometer had again fallen to its former level,
perhaps below it ; and it would have required another gill to
stimulate them to extra exertion, particularly on short allowance
of provisions, for then spirits act with double force.
In July, 18 , I was deemed convalescent, and sent to
Bear's hide watch-houses as an easy station, from whence I was
twice removed to other watch-houses equally so. It was
s
266
the policy of Capt. M , never to allow any one to remain
in one place long enough to form an acquaintance, or endanger
their taking bribes ; and a very judicious idea it was, for even
in a short time offers were frequently made to me, who not
having any money, was likely to accept them ; but by a speedy
removal, the effects of bribery were done away with. Only a
short time before the breaking up of the Blockade, a cir-
cumstance occurred which shews the benefit of noting down
events as they pass ; it is what I have done daily from the
commencement of my seafaring career, and to those little books
I owe this volume, as also many other benefits. But to pro-
ceed ; I was stationed not far from Brighton ; the cliff was per-
pendicular, and all over the station nearly 138 feet high, except
one single gap, about one mile and a quarter West of the watch-
house. A smuggling boat had some weeks before got 40 tubs
of foreign spirits up the cliff; this had been done by means of
a light swinging derrick, the heel of which shod, with iron, was
easily driven in the spongy soil, so as to bear the weight of
two tubs, which was all they risked at one time. The men
had evidently been disturbed, for they left two tubs at the
foot of the cliff, which I picked up next day ; all would have
been well, had the smugglers themselves kept a quiet tongue,
(for we supposed the tubs picked up to have drifted from
some sunken raft,) but they made a boast of their exploit in
a public-house, where a custom-house officer was sitting,
and by him soon conveyed to the collector, who, anxious to
find out where the tubs had been got up, offered a reward, and
got information of the exact spot and time.
One morning we were greatly surprized at a sudden visit
of the Captain ; he was not expected, and when he was, great
preparations were made ; for although every thing was in good
order at all times, double attention was paid when the Captain
visited us. After having been in the officers' quarters for
above an hour, both parties then came to the men's mess-room,
where we stood, fully aware that something was amiss, but not
26/
sensible of the extent of what we had to dread. The Captain,
with very significant looks, addressing me, said, e( well
my man, you have done a bad job for yourself, for a num-
ber of tubs have been got up on your station, and the
officer recollects the night well, and that you had the watch at
the time." Mr. and myself kept alternate watches, so
that the blame rested on one of us, but I was determined the
saddle should lay pn the right horse, and if innocent, that I
would not tamely submit to be disrated with all the et ceteras
attendant on it. I therefore begged to know if Capt.
knew the exact time, and on being informed in the affirmative,
I told the Captain that as I never had kept a watch, or
stationed, or removed a man without noting it down, If I
were the guilty party, the book would be sure to tell. Mr.
seemed rather alarmed ; the book was not expected, and when
brought, gave the following account of the night in question ;
" P. M. fresh breeze S. W. and rain. At 6, I relieved the watch,
stationed the men, the officer having examined the arms. At
9, shifted stations. At 12, 22, relieved by the officer, nothing
on the move." Now this having been regularly written every
day before, and since, up to the present, there could be no
forgery ; and as the work had been done, at 2, 30, A. M. it was
beyond a doubt that at the time I was sound asleep in my
hammock, for in that service men went to bed to sleep. No-
thing could be plainer, I was fully (I think honourably only
applies to officers) acquitted, the officer had a word or two said
to him in public, and all went on as before.
This winter had been very severe ; heavy gales mostly from
N. E. to S. E. and thick weather. During one of the long-
winter nights, a brig from Boston, North America, to London
with a valuable cargo, was in the thick weather, driven on
shore under a cliff to the Westward of Newhaven. It was
late when the moon rose, but by its light we got a sight of
the stranded vessel, just under a high cliff. Providentially the
water was pretty smooth, no boats could however get to her.
s2
268
At the distance of a mile or two that valuable invention,
Manby's apparatus was kept, always ready for use in a light four
wheeled wagon. A short time sufficed to bring it to bear.
I fired the howitzer, the first shot fell a head of the vessel.
I had not then had my education in the E , but the second
fell across her stays, between the masts, and carried with it the
line ; some on board understood how to use it, for they
hauled the lines in, the jack stay was set up, the cradle sent
along, and by this means thirteen persons were saved. Some
days after, the vessel was floated into Newhaven A present was
sent from Lloyd's, amounting to 18s. 6d. per man. Justice
must speak in the highest terms of Capt. Manby's invention ;
twice I have seen it used, and both times with perfect success.
At the early part of this year orders were received to prepare
for paying off the Blockade, to restore it to the Preventive
service. As there were a vast number more men than could
go round in the ship, the two cutters were employed in taking
them to Portsmouth ; fortunately I was in the first lot sent
round, I say fortunately, for it proves how small a circumstance
may affect our whole lives. Such an immense number of
petty officers let loose all at once, and but one ship in want of
hands, did away all hopes of getting a rate in her ; a Mr.
M commanded the cutter, and we had a long passage. One
day about dinner time, I observed that the men were gone
down to their dinners ; I went to the man who was steering,
put my hand on the tiller, and said, I will take her if you like
while you get your dinner. The man looked at Mr. M ,
who was walking the deck, as much as to say shall I do it sir,
which I observing, said, I am used to these sort of craft sir ;
not a word had yet passed Mr. M s lips, soon afterwards he
said " let him have her Martin ;" I took the tiller, the man
forgot to return, and I remained till past four o'clock, and
thought nothing of it ; there is something so pleasing in steering
a little craft, making her obey your every motion. Mr. M
ordered me to be relieved ; that night we anchored at Spithead.
269
CHAPTER XXIII.
Some men read books, as Post Boys travel, merely for dispatch.
OLD QUARTER MASTER.
To my attention in steering the cutter, I owe three years
comfort in the best, and smartest ship in commission since the
peace, I mean the A . Two days after we were ordered to
attend the Dock-yard to receive our pay ; waiting on the Hard
to get into the Yard, I observed Mr. M walking arm in arm
with the first Lieutenant of the A , I also took notice that
they observed me; presently both walked up, and Mr.
W said " do you want a ship my man," I answered yes
sir, if I could get my own rate ; Mr. W said Ci I will insure
it to you in that ship," pointing to the A ; meet me at
2 o'clock on board. I did so, saw Captain P , who without
one question put me on her books as quarter master, telling
me that as I was well known to the men just paid, he wished
me to go on shore, and enter as many as I could recommend.
At noon next day I went alongside with thirteen such fellows
as are seldom picked up in twenty four hours; all were
accepted, and the Captain giving me a sovereign, ordered me
to be victualled on shore for twenty-one days, and during that
period I entered sixty-seven men, a circumstance I think Capt.
P never forgot.
270
In June, a numerous squadron assembled at Spithead to
commence an experimental cruize in the Channel. Sailed early
in July, and did not return to the anchorage till late in August,
during which time every evolution of which a ship, or a ship's
company is capable, of was performed, and with an activity
and precision seldom equalled, and highly gratifying to the
respective Commanders. It surely must impart great pleasure
to the breast of a Commander of a ship of war, who as it were,
sovereign of a little wooden world, sees his ship superior to all
the others in her evolutions. On the 8th of September, in
consequence of the Coronation of H. M. William IV, double
allowance of spirits was issued to every man on board the
squadron, and I believe throughout the services. About noon,
on the 10th, as the anchor was at the bows for another cruize,
a telegraphic dispatch ordered the P and A to proceed
to Lisbon, to protect the British Merchants and their immense
property in that quarter, amid riot and civil war, which was
then only in its infancy.
On the 22nd, both ships anchored in the Tagus ; it is impos-
sible to describe the then state of the city; Pedro the Ex
Emperor of the Brazilian Empire had assembled a consider-
able force at one of the Western Islands, as also several ships
under command of Admiral Sartorius, and on our arrival it
was hourly expected that he would make a descent on Lisbon,
Oporto, or St. Ubes. The Miguelite Government were busily
employed in fortifying every place that might be supposed
accessible to the invaders, but in spite of all their efforts, spies
crept in and undermined several of their undertakings ; the
persons mostly suspected were monks. There were also officers
of superior rank in the army ; among those who fell victims of
suspicion, was the Colonel of the 4th Cacadores, who with one
of his sons was shot, while another of his family was sent on
board a frigate built ship already nearly filled with prisoners
bound to Macao and Goa, there most probably to end their
days in exile. Another son who had practiced as a Surgeon was
271
hidden for several weeks in the house of a female friend, who at
length became suspected ; the house was searched and as his
pursuers entered the door of his bed room, he jumped out of
the window and got safe on board the A . It may no
doubt be a matter of surprize how a man of my rank could
obtain information of all these circumstances ; fearing any of
my readers may suppose I dealt in the wonderful, I must
inform them that the gentleman whom I have just described
as having escaped with his life, did not understand or speak a
word of English ; French to him was as his native tongue.
Several of our officers spoke French, indeed to several I acted
as teacher, but as these did not converse much with him,
towards evening, or during the early part of the first watch, he
was often glad to come on the poop and have a chat with me ;
and really favoured me with his confidence in a great degree.
I was equally pleased with his conversation for he was an in-
telligent young man, and as his friends sometimes visited him
in the night, and brought him all the news, I was sure to get it
next day.
In January, liberty on shore was granted to a certain por-
tion of the ship's company ; I happened to be one of those
selected, and among other places I visited the English church,
or as it is called the Chapel. It stands at the upper end of
the burying ground, a neat building, without that gaudy ap-
pearance so common to the catholic churches of this country.
The inside is kept in excellent order, carpets and mats spread
on all sides, the pews neatly varnished, and the pulpit of rose
wood, spreads a sweet odour all around. Standing outside of
the church, an English stranger would fancy himself in the
pleasure grounds of some nobleman; true, the monuments
inform us that the dead lie here, but the alleys, gravelled and
bordered on either side with very large geraniums in full bloom,
and almond trees also in full blossom, with various other
flowers, bespeak the care with which it is attended. A vast
number of monuments some nearly two hundred years old
272
record the greatness, the goodness, and the riches of those
mouldering below. Among them I observed the tomb of P.
Dodridge, the author of the Rise and Progress of Religion
in the Soul, and many other good books ; as also that of
Fielding, the author of Tom Jones, or the Foundling. Appro-
priate inscriptions are deeply cut on both, and they are sur-
mounted with lofty cypresses, the largest and the highest I
had ever seen, or heard of. A Mr. C , who has for many
years acted as Clerk to the Chapel, kindly took me round the
grounds, which consist of nearly three acres, and on my leaving,
desired me to tell any of the men, who might be on shore, and
sober, that if they wished to see the place he should be happy
to see them. There was a time, even in my recollection, when
the " (if sober)" would really have been needful, but now that
better regulations and habits have improved the service, it is
not uncommon to see Jack on shore, and come off, perfectly
sober. I will not say it is universally so, but in a great
measure ; and if complete drunkards are found in a ship, five,
out of seven, are tars of the old school, who would as soon
think of changing their manners, as the leopard his spots.
From the English Church I visited the Cathedral; it not
being the time of divine service, we had some difficulty in gain-
ing admittance ; the porter at first refused to let me in, but an
old woman, toothless with age, and double with infirmities,
making her appearance, I just gave her eye a glance of a piece
of silver, I held between my fingers ; that was the key to open
the door of her good will, it operated like a talisman. I was
led through all parts of the building, that part, where the Nuns
sit, seeing and unseen, not excepted; I sat on their seats, and
fancied I heard their unavailing sighs of regret, at being torn
from the world, deprived of the comforts of society, their hopes
blasted, and devoted to a life of monastic rigour, in the very
prime of youth and bloom of health. I reflected with delight
on my own happy little island, a mere speck upon the ocean
where the Almighty has implanted in every bosom a sense of
273
liberty ; plunged in a labyrinth of reflection, I almost forgot
where I was, and no doubt should have gone much deeper,
but the old lady thinking I had been there long enough, drew
me back to the world; by a strong push; I gave her a quarter
of a dollar,, and went out to take a view of that grand piece of
national architecture,, the aqueduct, which supplies this vast city
with water, extending over high hills and deep valleys, for above
sixteen miles ; from the centre arch over the first valley, to the
ground below, is 628 feet. The valley itself is beautifully
pleasing, studded here and there with cottages, dropped
as it were into groves of orange and lemon trees, and which
from the great height at which I stood seemed like the regions
of fancy. On either side of the large tube (if I may call it so,
that conveys the water into the city), are two paths, broad
enough for two men to walk abreast of each other ; they are
edged with a parapet wall, and paved with Portland stone.
At sunset I returned to the ship, highly gratified with my day's
cruise, but very much fatigued ; and truly thankful for the in-
dulgence granted me.
Scarce one day passed without some execution taking place,
and nearly all for political crimes. The robber, who in the
dismal hour of night presented his stilletto to the bosom
of the peaceful individual, demanding his money or his life, or
possibly took the life first, was in many instances left to roam
at large ; or if taken, suffered to escape the ends of justice ;
while some unhappy being, who, in an unguarded moment,
saw his son, his only one, torn from his home to go and serve
in the army of the man he detested, expressed his sentiments
rather too openly on the existing government, was dragged
through the streets, insulted by his equal, hooted by the
rabble, and most probably ended his life at the strangling post ;
such scenes reader were common, and to the feeling heart, oh
how distressing. About the middle of February, 1832, sixteen
of the unfortunate victims of political strife who were taken
from the Dragon hulk, passed within half a pistol shot of our
274
quarter, landed, and within two hours we saw from our poop r
half of them shot ; the others reserved for a more painful death,
were strangled. Of all the executions I have ever seen, I
think strangling the most cruel and unmanly, putting the un-
happy being to needless pain in his last moments ; there is
a post, deeply buried in the earth, but sufficiently high above
to reach the head of any man ; on this board is a cross piece,
which, fitting in a mortice, slides up and down with ease, just
to suit the neck of the sufferer ; at each end of the cross piece
is a hole, through which a stout piece of rope is rove and
spliced at the back, just leaving it long enough to go easily
over the poor creature's head ; through the back part of the
rope the executioner passes his stick, about two feet long, and
taking a round turn, tightens the rope, so that the prisoner
can draw no breath, and until the eyes almost start from
their sockets ; but such is the law, he must not be dispatched
yet- mercy is dead the executioner eases up, and slackening
the rope, allows the poor creature to breathe and become sen-
sible, heaves tight again, and eases up till easing is useless,
and nature exhausted, and he dies. In Caza del Rey, the very
day before Lisbon surrendered to Don Pedro, 1 witnessed the
execution of an officer, who anticipating the surrender, called
out among the populace (e vive Don Pedro ; w poor creature his
moments were numbered.
Early iin June, the English squadron got under way, and
quitted the Tagus without saluting the Portuguese Flag ; and
continued cruising between Cape Especio and the Rock. Mean-
while a strict embargo was laid on all ships and vessels in the
river ; there was even some difficulty in getting permission for
the Viper, one of the tenders, to go in for fresh beef for the
squadron. In August, as the Viper was going in, one of the
batteries opened a fire on her ; the affair was immediately laid
before the Admiral, the signal was made " prepare to anchor
with springs on the cables/' Every preparation was made for
action; with a fine breeze N.W., the ships ran in and anchored
275
close to the batteries, making a noble shew three, three-deck
ships, and two of 80 guns each. The A , bearing the flag of
the Commander-in-Chief, took her station abreast the largest
battery ; the C - next, and each ship in succession. It was
fully expected that a few shot would be fired in anger that day,
but the Dons disappointed our expectations, for satisfaction
having been demanded, was immediately given, at least so
the story ran before the mainmast ; the officer who com-
manded the battery was dismissed. The idea of an action with
batteries on shore seemed to inspire some of our men with
pleasure ; I cannot say that with me it operated in that way :
where duty points, I am ever ready to obey, nor will I ever
shun danger or duty, but I never unnecessarily court it.
As 1 stood at the breech of the 55th gun, of which I was cap-
tain, and looked round on the animated countenances of the
crew, I felt a glow of pleasure at the certainty that England's
expectations would be fulfilled, for that every man would
indeed " do his duty." Of all the ships commissioned since the
peace, not one could be better, and few equal, in discipline, or
have a finer crew than the A . As a ship, she was pos-
sessed of every good quality the heart of man could wish for ;
she was the only ship I ever delighted in. In her there was
none of the heavy labour at the wheel, so common in many of
our large ships ; take her all in all, she was the ne plus ultra
of our coloured ship builder. With such a ship, and under
Capt. R , any man might be comfortable ; he was a strict
disciplinarian, a thorough bred seaman, and above all a good
master ; it is not to be wondered that this immense fabric,
in all its evolutions should be like clock work, regularity
itself.
At the latter end of August, the squadron of Her most
faithful Majesty the Queen of Portugal, under Admiral
Sartoritis, anchored off the bar, and just out of gunshot of
St. Julian and Bugio ; and although the ships of Don Miguel
were ready, and treble the force of their enemies, they did not
attempt to come outside,, but lay, in inglorious ease, safe in the
Tagus. It was reported that several messengers were sent to
request that the squadron should put to sea ; the English
however remained quiet at anchor, until the liberating squad-
ron weighed, and stood close in to the batteries in Casceas,
so near that some of the shot passed over their ships;
we then got underweigh, and just at that time the Donna
Maria, flag ship, unfurling the British Ensign at the main, and
his own flag at the fore, fired a royal salute ; not having a
Pedroite Standard ready, it was sometime before we could
return the salute. During that time, no doubt expectation
was raised to the highest pitch on board the little squadron,
but when the A 's thunder burst forth, and re-echoed
along their shores, followed by the Caledonia and the others,
I can well fancy how they felt, it seemed to say to those
engaged, press on. From Casceas to Belem, and so on to the
palace, the telegraph announced, " the Rebel squadron have
saluted the British Flag," they could not say so much for them-
selves, nor did they suppose that we knew all their signals.
Again we occupied our cruising ground, and the J
was sent in for a supply of water for all the ships. At that
time the liberating squadron got underweigh from their
anchorage, and stood close in to the mouth of the Tagus, and
raised a terrible commotion in Lisbon and its environs. The
two parties on shore were at loggerheads, and in the batteries
every one supposed that Admiral Sartorius was about to force
an entrance into the river ; as the ships stood close in, a ser-
geant in the service of Don Miguel, but who was in the interest
of Pedro, was taken in the very act of spiking those guns, which
were most likely to hurt the liberating squadron, and had
actually spiked eight before he was detected ; no trial took
place, the poor wretch was taken to the beach, and in full
view shot.
Our tender seldom went in without bringing out some vic-
tims of the revolution, who to save life, sacrificed comfort to
277
their allegiance to their sovereign. In September, Don Miguel,
succeeded in driving Admiral Felix to sea with the Don Juan,
84, and the Queen, 64, and several frigates to face Sartorius's
little squadron. In the mean time our ships weighed and
proceeded to Oporto, where we anchored on the 22nd of Sep-
tember ; the road of Oporto is entirely exposed, and extremely
dangerous with Southerly winds, but as the N. N. W. winds
mostly prevail during the summer months, we lay here secure
enough.
September 29th, a day ever memorable to me, as having
received a severe wound on that very day at Kotzebue Sound.
It was expected that being the birth day of Don Miguel, as
also that of his patron saint, that he would avail himself of
the circumstance and make a powerful attack on Oporto, then
in possession of the Pedroites, who had obtained it with
scarcely a struggle ; the event justified the expectations of all.
The South side of the Douro, which was then in possession
of the Miguelites, was very narrow at the entrance, and though
Oporto was well garrisoned, and defended mostly by French
and English mercenaries, the fate of the day was doubtful.
One of its greatest defences was the Sierra Convent, which
being a building of extreme strength, and manned by the Irish
Brigade, under the command of Brigadier General ,
shewed a row of brass 42 pounders to the face of the enemy.
Long before the dawn of day, on the ever memorable 29th, 1 832,
cannon and musketry announced that an attack had been
made on the town, and as night receded we obtained a sight
of the Douro covered with smoke. About 8, A. M., it became
evident that the Miguelites had been repulsed with great
slaughter, and were then making a second attack on the convent
and its adjacent batteries, which all withstood their utmost
efforts. The last trial did not continue above an hour ; the Mi-
guelites were driven back by the British and French, leaving
the city comparatively quiet : but it was a temporary quiet, like
a lull between two heavy squalls. About 1 1, A. M., the Admiral,
278
and as many of the officers as could be spared from the different
ships, landed outside the Douro. The coxswain of our large
boat being ill, I was ordered to take his place, and a little after
noon we reached the very spot where the action had begun.
Although the enemy had retreated to a pretty good distance,
it was rather dangerous going towards the city, as the Mi-
guelite picquets were stationed on every rising ground, from
whence a musket ball could tell. Every step as we walked
along gave evidence of the heat of action. Houses were
knocked down, the earth ploughed up by shot and shell, and
all around proclaimed horror and devastation : here and there
groups of women and children, whose countenances pourtrayed
grief and anxiety, were watching with streaming eyes the pro-
gress of the fight. At short distances were stationed picquets,
to protect the roads, and to assist the wounded on their way
to the town. Many of their wounded we met, some with the
loss of an arm, others with blood streaming from different parts
of their bodies. On the left was a small battery often guns, and
one eight-inch mortar, which seemed to have been the first,
and most dreadful point of attack. From circumstances, the
enemy must have been close to the battery before they fired,
for on looking into the moat, I counted twenty-seven dead
bodies, most of them from wounds in the head, surrounded
by more corpses than I could count. On the land side, was a
vineyard, in which grapes had till that morning been hanging
beautifully ripe ; they were now trodden down, the frames
broken, and the place so thickly strewed with wounded, that it
was difficult to tread clear of them.
It seemed to me that the object of our officers was to get a
view of the Sierra Convent, as that had not only been the hot-
test point of attack, but from its elevated position, it com-
manded an extensive view of the surrounding country, and of
the still contending armies, of which nothing now gave notice,
save the respective vollies of musketry, and the hoarse thunder
of the field howitzers. It was nearly three when we reached
279
the Convent ; I was tired enough, for most of the officers
having taken e*f their side arms, the task of carrying them
devolved on me.
To describe the grand, the awful, the imposing scene, is
far beyond the power of my pen ; the sun was fast hastening
towards the western horizon, when we entered the Convent,
which was entirely deserted, except a few men left for the
guns, if required. Not a living soul was left within its walls ;
the gateway, which had been doubly secured by casks filled
with sand and piled within it, was now in ruins, battered down
by the shot of the enemy. We passed along the ranges of
cells, where once had been heard the " busy hum" of men ; all
now was quiet ; no more resounded the voice of the Monks,
or the pealing anthem, inspiring awe ; the voice of adoration,
of business, or of pleasure, were alike silenced ; dust, rubbish,
and dead bodies formed one awful mass. One side of the
Convent walls was much damaged by shot and shell, but
upon the whole it had withstood the attack well ; in front, a
deep moat, lately dug, protected it, where the Miguelites in
attempting to storm, had been repulsed with dreadful slaugh-
ter, for the moat was nearly level with dead bodies. On the
land side of the Convent, a large vineyard extended nearly
as far as the eye could reach, to the foot of the neighbouring
hills the grapes full and ripe the frames broken by the
tread of men and horses ; it was difficult to advance one step
without stepping on a body, whose countenance ghastly and
ferocious, even in death struck terror to the beholder. A short
time after the retreat of the troops, few of the dead had any
clothing left ; for fiends in the shape of men and women, were
prowling round to strip the dead of their last covering.
This was a place well calculated to rouse the feelings : here
around us numbers of lives had been sacrificed to ambition ;
bitter even now the thoughts of what I felt at that moment ;
fatal ambition, the fiend, who dressing itself in the robes of
liberty, brings misery to thousands. How many widows and
280
orphans had this day made, and left in misery and sorrow;
I shrunk from the idea. The two armies were still busily at
work the distant sound of cannon the frequent volleys of
musketry announced that death was claiming his prey. T felt
on leaving the Convent, as if a heavy load had been removed
from my breast; happy to shut my eyes on the scenes of woe
around me. As we retraced our steps towards the shore, we
were met by groups of females and children, who were re-
turning from a vain search after a father and a husband, now
no more, enquiring of all they met, the fate of the battle. They
" Westward and North since morning's dawn,
" The sport alike of every vale
" Had crossed the forest and the lawn,
" The mountain summit and the dale,
" Without obtaining peace."
Among one of the groups was seen the young and beautiful
widow of Colonel C , of the Irish Brigade, who had that
morning been shot, while giving some orders to a sergeant ;
we had got about half way on our return, (our progress was
necessarily slow), but still detained by Commander P ,
who on being frequently begged to hasten, always replied,
" the Portuguese would think me a coward if I hurried/ 5 and
continued his slow pace. When in crossing a part of the
road which had been knocked down level with the ground,
the Miguelite people appeared in full view, not more than
hah a musket shot off; still not the least idea presented itself
that they would fire at persons who were unarmed, and only-
spectators of the scene ; but the event proved how frail our
opinions were, for in a moment a shower of musket balls
whizzed across our path ; one fatal bullet struck Mr. V -, our
Purser, and went completely through his body ; he exclaimed
" oh, my God, I am wounded," and fell into the arms of those
nearest to him, among wh< m I was. I never knew an event
of the kind create such interest in a ship. Mr. V , from
the highest to the lowest was universally respected ; with
381
extreme difficulty he was got on board, [and wonderful to re-
late, recovered. I have seldom ever felt more pleasure than
I did, when late at night I ascended the old A's side ; then,
and not till then, I felt conscious of safety, and, as during the
middle watch, I paced the poop, I reflected with pleasure
upon the innumerable blessings Englishmen enjoy ; secured
by their laws at home ; and abroad, protected by their wooden
walls ; they can at night retire to rest, without the dread
of civil wars, such as rend the very hearts of neighbouring
countries.
Firing was distinctly heard from the ships the whole of the
night. Sunday, at day-break, all was quiet ; an awful stillness
seemed to reign over the whole scene of the preceding day.
It appeared that a temporary cessation of hostilities had been
tacitly taken and given ; for on both sides parties were seen,
collecting the dead in heaps, while others were busily em-
ployed in digging holes to put them into ; they were uninter-
rupted. The loss on the side of Miguel, was computed at
above two thousand ; that of Pedro was reported less, but it was
conjectured that their loss was equal ; the carnage was dread-
ful, and for several days after the troops were suffered to repose.
October 4th, the Donna Maria arrived, after having had an
action with the Don Juan 84, and fairly driven her into the
Tagus ; it was a dangerous experiment for a ship of only
32 guns, of small calibre, to range herself alongside such
an antagonist; but it will convince the world that an
Englishman will almost attempt any 4hing, and seldom fails of
accomplishing his object. After she had been a short time
anchored, I was sent alongside of her on duty ; she certainly
was in a dreadful state ; I counted no less than seventy-eight
shot in her hull, and on going on board, one of the first objects
that struck my sight was a young man named Nixon, who
only a few months before had run from our ship, and after
remaining on shore sometime, had been obliged to enter the
T
282
Pedroite service, and in this action had received a wound
in the head, of which he died next day. So much for run-
ning from a ship of war, I never yet knew one better himself
by it.
283
CHAPTER XXIV.
Our march is on the mountain wate,
Our home is on the deep."
IN these days, when no compulsion is used to force a man
into the service, mature consideration should guide the seaman
in the choice of his ship, and above all he should recollect that
" a rolling stone gathers no moss/ 5 Every thing now in ships
of war proves how superior they are to the merchant service ;
not a day passes, but I hear many among the seamen, de-
plore their having run from a ship of war; when, had they not
done so, they might now, instead of poverty and rags, which
are before them, have enjoyed a good pension^ in respectability
and comfort. But in many cases, a strange infatuation takes
possession of the mind, and leads men to commit actions
which ever after their better judgment condemns ; and so it
was with the unhappy youth named in the former chapter.
Brought up respectably, after serving an apprenticeship in
that nursery, the North country trade, he entered the ser-
vice of his country with every prospect of doing well. For six
years he served with credit, but in one fatal moment destroyed
T2
284
all, and ultimately lost his life in a mercenary cause. He told
me, as I stood at the side of his cot, that from the moment of
his entering he had seen his error, and been miserable ; parti-
cularly when he saw his old ship, the A , but like many
others
" Beneath a foreign soil he sleeps,
41 His dauntless breast now burns no more ;
" For him, his widow 1 d partner weeps,
" For him, his orphan babes deplore.
" Oh give him pity's soothing tear,
44 Kind charity's benignant boon."
" DIRGE."
About the middle of October, for some reason I could not learn,
it was found necessary, by the Commander-in-Chief, to send a
flag of truce to the General of the Migu elite army. Lieutenant,
now Commander C , was chosen to go, and as a sort of
orderly was accompanied by a sergeant of Artillery and myself.
The only protection we had was the Jack of our nation, which
indeed was deemed sufficient, as long as it could be seen.
From some cause we were detained late before we set out, and
that detention was likely to prove fatal to us ; it was about
1 o'clock when we landed, not far from one of the Miguelite
batteries. Mr. C having spoken to the Commandant,
and shewn his credentials, was passed on, under an escort, to
the camp, where General C held his command, and head
quarters. It was nearly 3, p. M. when we arrived there.
What passed between my Officer and the General, of course
I knew nothing of, but on looking round at the vast number
of men that surrounded me, I felt surprised at the various
and false reports, of the distress prevailing in the Miguelite
camp ; all seemed well clothed, and for men who had so
lately been engaged in active warfare, well looking. Here then
we stood in the very centre of a camp that might be deemed
an enemy's, no very pleasant situation certainly, as night was
fast approaching ; however our protection waved over our
285
heads. Just before we left the camp, our Officer desired
something to drink, when General C said " if you go into
my tent," pointing to it, " you will find some water ." I was
sent ; a cask stood at one end of it, an old tin-pot near it ;
with that I hastened back, and Mr. C having drunk
heartily, returned it to me. I could not help remarking that
war levels all, and that hospitality does not dwell in a Camp.
On our way back, as we drew near the lines, our course was
well nigh stopped ; altogether for it being dusk, and our Jack
not easily distinguished, picquets presented their pieces at us;
had we not immediately stopped, our earthly career would
soon have ended ; we got safe on board.
Variable winds, and these sometimes tending to the South-
ward, warned the Admiral it was time to remove his squadron
to a place of greater safety. Accordingly October 20th, the
signal was made to weigh, and after a fine passage, on the
22nd we again dropped the best bower in the Tagus, where
we found all, just as we had left it. The Miguelite squadron
were busily employed in fitting out and repairing the damages
the last cruize had occasioned. It is laughable to see a Por-
tuguese sailor going up to the mast head, with his immense
grego on, it being so heavy as to render him almost incapable of
motion,
Christmas, like all those days on board ships of war, was
a season of rejoicing ; the tables groaning under the weight of
roast beef and plumb pudding. At six in the evening the
A 's lower deck presented a sight pleasing and rare, and
such I dare say as few of my readers ever saw : fancy then
a deck of 132 feet long, a fine tier of 32 pounders, and
between each, a table with mess shelves, crockery, &c., neatly
arranged, clean and in good order. On each table were large
branches, torn from the orange trees, with the fruit on them,
beautifully ripe; and almond boughs in full blossom, intersper-
sed with geraniums, then in flower ; on some of the tables
transpare rices, roughly executed, but pleasing to the eye. One
286
in particular represented Nelson, with a gentleman looking
up at him, and a little boy holding by his finger ; the child
looking at his papa, said,
" Who's that papa ?" And the father replied,
" 'Tis our Nelson, old England's pride,
' The dread of all her foes beside."
There were one thousand and forty one candles, all burning
at once, which reflected a lustre that the green only pre-
vented from dazzling the eyes. The Admiral, Captain, and
most of the Officers paid us a visit about seven, and were highly
delighted ; but after that hour, noise, drunkenness, and riot
succeeded, and I felt really glad when eight o'clock struck,
and I went on the poop to keep the first watch.
Lisbon for sometime remained particularly quiet ; police
arrangements had been made, and a vigilant look out kept the
discontent down ; indeed few but old men remained to mur-
mur, for in walking two whole streets, it was a chance if you
met above one or two males, and these were aged. Great
preparations were making to give Admiral Napier a warm re-
ception ; he had superseded Admiral Sartorius, and was known
to be a most determined and courageous man, which made
the Portuguese tremble. Early in May, intelligence arrived
that the Admiral had landed in Algarve, near Cape St. Vincent ;
after which several towns hoisted the blue and white flag, and
claimed his protection ; little fighting was required, for the
inhabitants of the town seemed panic struck. About the 16th of
July, a brig arrived in the Tagus, with intelligence that Admiral
Napier had captured the squadron of Don Miguel, and that
the captured ships were taken into the Bay of Largos, to repair
damages. For several days it was evident that something serious
was expected to take place, in or about Lisbon ; the troops
crossing the river to reinforce the batteries on the south side,
made us keep a bright look out upon their motions. On the
24th July, at 4, A. M., as day light appeared, we were surprised
287
to see from our poop, a small battery on Point Tresillas, with the
blue and white waving from its staff. An immediate order was
given for the ships to weigh, and get out of their line of fire ; but
before this could be accomplished the Alamaida, the strongest
battery on the south side, hoisted the blue and white ; it was
evident that there was a great discussion on hoisting the flag
on the battery, for off the A s poop, I could see with a
glass, the flag bent on, and the man with the halliards in his
hand ready to pull up, yet apparently undecided; however by
9, A. M., all the batteries, south of the Tagus, had given up to
Don Pedro's troops. About 10, A. M. a small battery on Casa
del Rey, shewed the blue and white, hoisted as it was said by
a man named O'Brien, who received a knock down blow or
two, before he accomplished his purpose. All seemed now to
have caught the infection, for by 1, F. M., the Citadel, Belem,
Bugio, and St. Julian all bore one flag, namely the blue and
white ; and before evening scarce a boat in the Tagus, however
small, whose oars and sides were not streaked blue and white.
It seemed as if the colours had risen by magic, no pen can
describe the confusion that ensued ; double royal salutes were
fired, and both sides of the Tagus were one constant blaze
for hours.
Only the day before, had any person dared to breathe the
name of Donna Maria, his life would have been forfeited;
or had any one been seen wearing the combined colors, his
life would not have been worth a straw. But on this aus-
picious day, the dawn of returning peace seemed to shine on the
Portuguese citizen. No name, but Donna Maria's, resounded
through the streets ; no tongue but was ready to shout her
praise ; she was the only idol at whose shrine devotion was
paid ; civil authority was insufficient to keep order. Bands
of men, whose object was chiefly plunder, paraded the
streets ; and collecting mobs, attacked the houses of those
persons who had been most in favour with the former go-
vernment ; threw their furniture out of the windows, and
288
set fire to it in the open street. For three days it was dan-
gerous to walk in the streets; .a certain portion of troops
were at last stationed in each of them, and after some very
severe examples, something like order was restored. Several
hundred persons, who had rendered themselves disliked and
feared, under Miguel, were obliged, as a place of security, to
seek refuge in the Citadel. Illuminations and fireworks suc-
ceeded each other for days and nights, and all seemed anxious
to show their devotion to the youthful Queen. Rejoicings
re-commenced on the 26th, when the squadron, under Admiral
Napier, entered the Tagus, and for a time he was hailed from
all quarters as el liber ador. About the 14th August, the Soho,
steam vessel came in, having on board the young Queen ; she
came in with the Standard of Portugal at the main, and as
she passed, the batteries on shore saluted, as did the English
and French men-of-war. In the evening, each of our ships fired
a feu-de-joie, the town was illuminated, and a grand display
of fireworks took place.
The Pedroite Government did not long remain very popular,
for one of its first acts was to curtail the power of the clergy ;
an act which at that moment, though just, was ill timed. This
was proved so, for in a few days a plot was discovered, almost
ripe, and particularly well planned, for restoring the possession
of the city to Don Miguel. About four hundred persons
were found implicated in it, among whom the heads of the clergy
were conspicuous. Money to a large amount, and arms in
great numbers were confiscated ; some of those concerned
escaped, but by far the greatest number went to prison.
Wherever the Queen, or Don Pedro appeared, they were re-
ceived with acclamations of delight, the sincerity of which
may be doubted. It exhibited the pliability of the Portuguese
character ; like the Vicar of Bray, ever ready to suit itself to
any emergency. Certainly Lisbon, drained to the very dregs of
men, and of money, required that rest its present government
seemed willing to give it. However, fearing the threatened
289
visit of Miguel should take place, the old fortifications were
repaired, and new ones built, outside the town; and every thing
made ready for any untoward circumstance that might take
place. These preparations were not needless, for before they
were well ready, Miguel with an army, far more powerful that
could have been expected, was close to their lines ; and in
order to let them know that he was in earnest, his first act
was to cut off the tube of the aqueduct which supplied the
town with water. From the manner in which the fortifi-
cations were built, the town of Belem was left unprotected,
and quite free to the ravage of the enemy's troops. The
inhabitants were therefore obliged to quit it and fly to Lisbon,
under the wings of Pedro, to avoid his brother. The alarm
became general, not a boat was allowed to pass Belem, without
being fired at ; and many of the blue and white boats assumed
a more sombre hue ; enthusiasm seemed to cool, as Miguel
came nearer. The house of the British Ambassador was
situated nearly in the centre of Belem, but as it was necessary
that his property should be respected, the British Ensign flew
over his house all day ; and to add to its security, a corporal
and three private marines were put in charge of it, taking
three days' provisions, with positive orders not to leave the
house. No care was neglected to insure the safety of English
subjects and property, in the event of Miguel's entering the
town ; and, so that the English should feel no uneasiness, the
Admiral ordered that each ship should supply one or more
boats, according to her rate, to attend every night, and all night
long, at the different landing places, fully prepared to receive
any who may need the protection of the British Flag. It
was continued till every idea of danger was past, and it was
really pleasing to hear the middle ranks of the English, who
resided in Lisbon, speak of the attention paid to their safety.
The evening on which our marines' provisions were supposed
to be exhausted, the Commander called me to him, saying, " do
you not speak Portuguese ?" a very little, sir, answered I,
290
" well then," said Commander P , " make use of that little
to-morrow morning ; and go in the pinnace, and take three
day's provisions to our men." At 6, A. M., I was all ready, and
on stepping down the side into the boat, I said to the Midship-
man, pray sir have you a Jack in the boat ? On his answering
in the negative, I said, believe me, sir, I am not going to trust
myself among those fellows, without the British Flag to secure
my head ; and with that I jumped up the side for a Jack, and
although officers and men laughed at me, I secured it to a
staff, and taking it on my shoulder landed. To that Jack I owe
my life, for I had not left Mr. S in the boat more than six
minutes, when ont urning the corner of a street, two Miguelites,
with their rifles at the shoulder, and cocked, bade me stand
fast or die ; and one of them said to the other, as sure as you
live this is the spy. My situation just then was none of the
pleasantest, suspected of being a spy, with two loaded rifles
pointed at my breast, ready cocked, which the weight of a
hair would have discharged, and sent two leaden messengers
through me, operated like a charm. I did not move one foot,
but shaking my flag with both my hands, I let them see the
pretty mixture of colours it contained, and shouted lustily
Inglese, Inglese. For some moments they appeared ulidecided
how to act, however one left, and I supposed went for an
officer ; and the other lowering his gun, half cocked it, and
rested on it, telling me however not to move. In a few mo-
ments an officer appeared, who asked me in Portuguese, who
I was ; as I was no great hand at his lingo, I asked him if he
understood French, and finding that he did, I explained to him
the nature of the duty I was upon, and the orders I had to
fulfil. This officer, who wore an immense pair of mustachios,
told me that I must be searched, to see that I had no papers
about me of an improper nature ; but this I utterly refused,
saying to him, sir, I am a British subject, belonging to the
Admiral's ship, and I feel assured the Commander-in-chief
would be offended if he knew I was ill treated 5 if such is
291
to be the case, yourself or your government must answer for it.
I was then required to say that I had no papers about me,
and tired of waiting, I said I had not, and was immediately
escorted to the very door I wished to enter ; the corporal
unbarred it and let me in. While in the house, from an upper
window, the men pointed out to me a party of Miguelites who
having stolen a bullock, drove it into a neighbouring yard,
killed it, and having kindled a fire from the ruins of an old
coach, were broiling beef steaks and enjoying their meal, pro-
bably the best they had for many days. The meal was nearly
ended, when a shell from an eight-inch mortar, on the Pedroite
lines, pitched in one corner of the yard in which they were
regaling themselves ; up they all jumped and flew in all di-
rections, providentially the fuze was out of proportion, and
did not burst for several seconds after the shell pitched ; but
when it did, it raised a cloud of dust and stones, and cleared
away all round it ; the men however had got clear of it, only
one was wounded. I did not at all envy the marines their
abode, for it was not certain, but a shell acted upon by the
wind, might, some day, pitch on their house ; and although
restitution of property could have been claimed, life could not
have been restored. Some days after as I was on the poop,
it was pointed out to me that a party of Miguelites had gone
into one of the windmills, on the heights over Belem ; as we
were still spying at it, a Pedroite shell pitched right on the
top of the mill and set it in a blaze ; the loss of life must
have been great.
Early in November, Don Miguel, with fifteen thousand men,
made an attack upon Lisbon, near Belem ; at the same time
another part was attacked, and little doubt remains, but that if
the Donna Maria had not been hauled close in shore, and with
her broadside brought on the enemy, deciding the fate of the
day, Lisbon would have been taken ; the carnage was dreadful.
The Belem fortifications being in sight of the ship, those on
board had an excellent view of the action, which continued
292
three whole days more or less, and was only surpassed by the
fight on the 29th at Oporto. The bones of men and horses lay
for weeks whitening on the field of battle ; the houses of the
Portuguese nobility and English merchants were destroyed ;
and that spot, which only a few days before had been delight-
ful to the eye, was now a heap of ruins. The English and
French Mercenaries followed the retreating Miguelites, and
left the lines pretty quiet ; commerce revived, shipping again
filled the Tagus, and all hoped things would soon be finally
.settled ; water, which from the cutting off of the aqueduct had
been scarce, was now again abundant. We seldom heard a
shot fired, now Miguel had retreated within the walls of that
almost impregnable fortress Santarem, and remained secured
within them ; but his troops were in arrear of pay, ill-
clothed, and worse fed ; which created disturbances among
them, and almost open mutiny. Several vessels had lately
arrived from England with troops, who on hearing the state of
affairs refused to serve, and in several cases were sent back
ruined ; many of them having spent their little all, in their out-
fit, as officers, in the Pedroite cause. I well recollect a cir-
cumstance, which was related to me by the person to whom it
occurred, and as the Admiral interested himself in it, no doubt
can exist of its truth. This person, whose name was H ,
had been an officer in the English army, on half-pay for several
years, with a numerous family to support ; two years before
the time of his coming to A , his wife had died of a pro-
tracted illness, and great expences had left him incumbered
with debts ; creditors became importunate, and in order to sa-
tisfy them, and act honestly by all, he sold his commission,
paid his debts, left his family with a friend, on whom he could
depend, and enlisted as a sergeant under the standard of
Donna Maria. From that period, to January, 1834, he followed
the fate, and shared the dangers of Don Pedro's followers, with-
out receiving any thing but hard duty, small rations, heavy
wounds, and one-sixth of his pay. Of the latter, and prize
293
money, a good sum was due to him ; at last worn down in
body and harassed in mind, he determined to quit the ser-
vice, and rather forfeit ah 1 that was due, than remain in it. His
discharge was obtained, but his pay and prize money was quite
another thing, the Exchequer was too poor to pay all debts to
faithful servants ; he, however, determined ere he left Portu-
gal, to make an effort to recover his dues, and laid his case
before the British Admiral, on whose humanity he could
depend, nor did he do so in vain. Having addressed a letter,
he came on board with it, and having sent it in, waited for an?
answer. His unfortunate situation created so much interest
among the gun-room officers, that he was ordered down into
the steward's birth, to take such refreshments as he needed ;
in the mean time a collection was made among them, which
amounted to above six pounds. How the Admiral interfered
was not known, but certain it is that through his means, di-
rectly or indirectly, the poor man obtained every farthing that
was due to him, amounting to above three hundred pounds.
On the following Saturday, he came on board, decently dressed,
to return thanks to the officers for their kindness ; his heart
was full ; gratitude, the memory of the heart, seemed almost
beyond utterance ; he was about to revisit his home, his family,
and his all. Sometime in January, though I now forget the
exact day, I shall never forget the circumstance, I had the
forenoon watch, (i. e. from eight o' clock till noon) about half-
past twelve the French Commodore came up under the stern,
and not being seen, walked up the side without the requisite
preparations being made, of side boy, guard, &c., which are
usual on these occasions, nor was the Captain made acquainted
with his approach. To any foreigner this would have been in-
excusable, but to our ally, it betrayed not only a want of respect,
but a great breach of discipline, and on whom the Captain^
anger would fall was uncertain. I felt myself equally to blame
as the signalman, for I had not kept the look out I ought to have
done ; thus, for above an hour, while the Commodore remained
294
on board with the Captain, (the Admiral was on shore) ; the
Signal Midshipman, Signalman, and myself endured all the
horrors of suspense, as to what might be our doom for this
breach of duty. At last the cabin door opened, (it went to my
very heart), the Captain and Commodore came out ; and after
taking a turn or two on the quarter deck, and speaking French,
which the Captain did well, they bade each other good
morning, and separated. As soon as the last whistle went,
which announced that the barge had shoved off, and the
bow oars in the water, Captain R , taking a round turn
on his heel and looking up towards the poop, said, " and
now who is Signal Midshipman of the watch ?" to which
Mr. M answered I am sir, " go to the mast head sir/'
Away went Mr. M up the main rigging ; my turn next
thought I, but I was deceived, for the signalman was next,
and was put watch and watch for a week, and six water grog.
Every moment I expected to be called, but there was not a
word about the quarter master ; I really felt grateful, for
considering our carelessness, and the idea which must have
struck the French Commodore of the bad look out we kept,
the punishment was trifling, and certainly well deserved, but
it did not end here. Mr. M was a young man, univer-
sally respected by high and low throughout the ship ; his
pleasing address, gentlemanlike manners, pleased his equals ;
and his condescending kindness, without stooping too low,
made him a general favourite with the men.
At 4 o'clock, my watch ended, I was relieved and went
below ; Mr. M still at the mast head, without his dinner.
I observed him looking down from his high perch, saying as
plain as look could say, I wish I was there with you. I deter-
mined to make an effort to carry him something to eat, and
went down to the gun room steward, and said to him in a half
whisper, if you will make a nice bottle of tea, and put some
cold meat and bread in a piece of paper, I will volunteer to
take it up to Mr. M . " Will you/' said the steward,
295
who was pleased at the thought of serving a known friend in
view ; " if you do, I will give you a glass of wine." The tea
was prepared, ham sandwiches cut, and neatly tied up in a
newspaper, were put into my bosom, and the bottle put on
the opposite side, I trudged up the main rigging. I had only
got a few ratlins up, when who should make his appearance
up the after ladder but the Captain ; I was deceived, for I
had believed him busy writing. As usual he took a turn or
two across the poop, then a look up aloft, as if to see any
thing amiss, for his eye was every where, and spying me,
knowing I had no business there, hailed " main rigging there ;"
the words struck me all of a heap, and looking down seeing there
was no one else in the rigging, I answered, sir ; ee come down
here,' 9 said the Captain, and down I came ; twice in one day
thought I, this is bad indeed. " Pray sir/ 5 said Captain R
' f how long have you been in the gunner's crew ;" never sir,
said I, " then what were you doing aloft ?"
Believe me sir, I will not tell you a falsehood on the sub-
ject ; Mr. M has been at the mast head since noon, and
I dare say he is very hungry ; I was going to carry him some-
thing to eat. " Oh, is that all," said the Captain, who came
down on the quarter deck ; " and now, pray let me see what
you have got for him ;" out of one side came the bottle of tea,
and the other produced the sandwiches. The Captain could
hardly suppress a smile, but as it was a breach of orders,
some punishment had to be inflicted ; I was therefore ordered
to sit on the cannonade slide, and eat all the paper con-
tained, and drink the whole of the tea. How many, many
days have I seen, when such a treat would have been deemed
a blessing, and received with gratitude; but just then I
would gladly have dispensed with the favour, but obedi-
ence has ever been my maxim ; I ate away. Some one having
been down into the gun-room, and told the mates, &c., the
nature of my punishment, they all came up, and had a
good laugh at me. At 5, p. M., Mr. M was called down,
296
and as soon as my forced meal was ended, I was allowed to
go away with a slight reprimand, in the shape of a desire
to do so no more ; here I flattered myself it would end, but
at eight o'clock when I went to call the officer of the first watch,
I was asked from all parts of the gun-room how my sandwiches
ate and if I should like a few more ; I took all in good part,
joined in the laugh, and like most other nine days wonder it
was forgotten, and fresh circumstances occurred to attract their
attention.
29?
CHAPTER XXV.
LISBON.
LISBON was quiet enough now, to allow a certain portion of
our men to have leave, and on the 23rd of January, two
years from my last visit, I was again on shore in company
with a brother quarter master, named L ; being very
friendly, we remained together nearly the whole day, and while
walking about in the forenoon, we came to a large building,
which, from its mournful look, I at first imagined was a prison,
but as we were proceeding onwards, we were overtaken by a
person of genteel appearance, who had just left the gate. I took
the liberty of asking him, what the building was appropriated
to, and was informed that it was a foundling hospital, or, as he
termed it, a Misericorde, where children were at all times
received, and no questions asked ; kept until a certain age,
when they were disposed of, for the good of the state. My
informer told me that it was the means of saving many lives ;
for the unnatural mother, who would in many cases have sacri-
ficed her offspring to save her character, or the expence of
keeping it, had now no inducement to do so ; for here was a
place of refuge, where she might take it and know it to be safe.
298
Indeed, added the gentleman, it is our practice if we know any
female, whose indiscretion is likely to give birth to a child, to
keep a watch for its safety even before its birth. Once within
our walls, in a month or two, it is difficult for the mother to
recognize her own child. Finding the person whom I was
addressing had something to do with the institution, I asked
if it was possible to enter it. A moment's consideration and our
request was granted ; and with our new friend we soon got
within the walls, where I saw such a number of little faces
(from four months upwards) as I had never before seen at one
time. Those above six years of age, inhabited another side of
the house, and were in coarse striped woollen stuff, similar to
our linsy woolsy ; cheerful and full of chat, and contrary to
the usual Portuguese custom, perfectly clean, and the place in
excellent order. The house was built and endowed by a rich
old lady, who dying without any family, left the whole of her
property to the institution ; the civil war had materially injured
its interests, and it was now chiefly supported by voluntary
contributions ; half a crusado was all I could afford to give, but
that went into the box with pleasure. Our next place of
visiting was the Adjuda Palace, commenced by Don Juan, the
father of the two contending Princes, who was not doomed
to dwell within its walls ; it was, however, nearly completed by
Don Miguel. The building is of immense dimensions, with
a fine prospect of the open sea, and the top adorned with
statues of all nations, consisting of Warriors, Priests, and
Kings. A Portugese Cacador, who was there in charge of it,
after a little chat, admitted us into the palace ; the rooms were
larger and more handsome than any I had ever seen before ;
a grand marble stair case, with rose- wood bannisters, led to
the first floor. Although the more costly furniture had been
removed, sufficient of it remained to shew its richness ; nearly
all the rooms were hung with tapestry, which I was told had
been executed by the needles of the Nuns, and presented from
the various Nunneries in Lisbon and its environs ; it certainly
299
reflected great credit on their abilities. Each room represen-
ted a different subject, but the finest I saw, or the one that
I admired most, was the parting of Hector and Andromache.
The Cacador who was shewing us the place, seemed to enjoy
our astonishment, and no doubt thought he was inspiring
John Bull with deep respect, for the riches of his Sovereign.
Previous to the return of Don Miguel to the back of Lisbon,
(supposing it likely, that if he did return, himself or his officers,
and possibly part of his troops, would have inhabited the
palace), a number of barrels of powder had been buried in its
underground cellars. When we visited it, the mine was still
in being, and complete, with only the tube cut off; one
spark would ignite it, and send the building and ourselves into
the air ; on thinking of it, I felt rather uncomfortable.
About sunset, we returned towards the Caza del Rey, and
had reached within a quarter of a mile of the place, where the
boat was waiting to take us on board, when in a sort of square,
we observed a mob collected, of I should say not less than
three hundred persons. Several English Officers, in the
Pedroite service were among them ; all seemed trying to make
some grievance known \ the confusion was terrible. I endea-
voured to get my companion along, but during the day, he
had drank freely of the white wine of the country, and was
what seamen call, above hah seas over, and all my efforts were
useless to get him away. He flew into the thickest of the
mob, of those who were bawling, at the highest pitch of their
voices, Viva Don Pedro ; for some moments I lost sight of
him, and during that time, heard several voices shouting
Viva Don Miguel, among which I recognised, that of my infa-
tuated companion. Presently soldiers flocked from all sides,
those who could get away, did so ; but L was too far gone ;
the wine, which before had only taken partial effect, now ren-
bered him unable to walk, and he lay sprawling on the ground ;
he, with several others was taken to prison. For my part, as
coffee had been my only drink that day, I was sober, and as
u2
300
quickly as possible got back to the ship, and related the affair.
One man had been shot ; who was found to have been, until
that day, an officer in the service of Donna Maria, but his
friends had induced him to give it up, and in order to defray
all expences, had sent him a bill of 50 ; which bill was found
in his pocket after his death. He had, that very evening, taken
his passage in a brig for Liverpool, and was on his way to
her, when the fatal occurrence took place.
Poor L remained in prison nine days, and although
bail was offered for his appearance, when called for, he could
not be liberated, and nothing but the most powerful interest
saved him ; while in the prison, he was liberally supplied with
provisions and money, from the officers of the ship.
One night in February, 1834, just as I had relieved the
deck for the middle watch ; the signalman and myself, walking
across the poop, observed an immense column of smoke issu-
ing from some houses not far from the old palace. It being
an unusual thing to see smoke at any time, but much less at
midnight, we stood looking at it with attention, and by one
bell, i. e. half past twelve, the flames burst forth, and increased
every moment after, till they gave a distinct view of all the
city. The moment it was reported, the Captain and nearly
all the Officers were on deck ; all the boats' crews and fire-
men were ordered on shore, to assist in time of need. I had no
business there, and was liable to be punished for going ; but
I did go, and about ten minutes past one we got to the fire,
with Earle's patent pump, the very best ever yet invented.
A great number of Portuguese men, women, and children
were either standing or running about, but not one attempted
any means of stopping the progress of the flames ; it was plain
that in order to put a stop to its further extension, one or two
houses on each side must be knocked down. The usual
whistle on these occasion was resorted to "all hands down
house 5" in one moment all was alive. Of all the officers I
ever sailed with, none was better calculated for that, or any
301
other job that required presence of mind and activity, than
Lieutenant C ; him therefore I followed, because I sin-
cerely respected him, and hoped to make my self useful. There
was a small house at the back of the premises, which required
pulling down ; to this I was sent with a small party of men ;
the windows once broken, we soon got in, and were busily at
work, when the fire got to it, and all hands left it without my
noticing their departure. I was not aware of my danger, for
I was working away with the axe, when I heard one of our
officers calling to me several times ; (i you B , will you
come down, the house is falling ;" to each call I answered, aye,
aye sir, but did not come till I found I had indeed stayed too
long ; the roof fell in, and hurried me among the burning
ruins, and scorched one of my shoulders very much. The
moment that it was found out that I had fallen, both our
engines were brought to bear upon that particular spot ; the
fire was kept down, the beams removed, and I was got out,
my clothing entirely destroyed, and nearly all the hair singed
off my head; but I was not the only one who suffered from
this night's work ; several others shared the same fate, and
nearly all hands spoiled or destroyed all the clothes they then
wore.
From the fire having taken place so very near the royal
residence, it was fully expected that something handsome
would be given to those, by whose great exertions the progress
of the flames had been stopped. Great debates took place on
the lower deck, as well as in the after part of the ship, upon
the subject ; some who had not been, went so far as to offer a
sum of money to the others for their share of the present they
were expected to receive. I was not sanguine in my expec-
tation, for my opinion of Portuguese generosity was but indif-
ferent ; they have not, thought I, that generous feeling that
would spring up in the breast of an Englishman, when he
witnesses the exertions of others used in his behalf; but surely
they will repay our loss, and at least give to each man the
302
value of the clothing he has lost ; the event proved that our
"dependance was placed on a broken reed. A few days after,
an order was issued for every man who was at the late fire, to
repair to the quarter deck ; I was at the time in the sick list,
from burns and bruizes received at the fire ; but determined
not to lose my share of the good things about to be dispensed,
I managed to get up. The Captain was on deck, with his
cocked hat and sword on, waiting as we supposed, with much
pleasure, to announce to his men a liberal donation from the
Portuguese crown ; but after a moment or two of dead silence,
the Captain read to us, not the sum total but the thanks of
His Royal Highness the Duke of Braganza.
April 5th, being the anniversary of the birth of the young
Queen, the ships of war were dressed in flags, fired a royal
salute, and a feu-de-joie at night. Lisbon and its environs
was brilliantly illuminated, the churches spared no expence in
candles, all was outward rejoicing. On one of the tables I saw
that day, was one of the finest specimens of the cook's art ; it
was a representation of Bugio light house; the rocks round it
were so natural, that it would have been easy to mistake them
for stones covered with sea weed ; the lanthorn, composed of
isinglass, was bright and transparent ; on the top waved the
flags of Britain and France, whose ample folds seemed wrapped
in each other, as if to proclaim uninterrupted amity. Round the
top was a battery of twenty-one small brass cannons all charged,
and from one, to the other, a small piece of touch paper, suffi-
cient in length to allow the report of one gun just to die away,
before the other was heard ; and enable those at the table to
be aware it was a salute, and not minute guns. It was placed
on the centre of the table, but by some error in the gunnery,
all the guns ignited at one time, but the beautiful specimen
remained entire. Three years were now complete in the A ,
and althought I felt a sincere desire to return home to my
family, still the uncertainty of my ever getting so comfortable
a ship again considerably abated the wish.
303
On the ?th, eighty prisoners arrived in Lisbon, among whom,
was one female ; they were in the greatest distress imaginable,
and from the distance they came, from the Miguelite camp,
must have suffered a great deal. A merchant vessel was ordered
to be prepared to receive them, and as they were in a most
filthy state, the Commander-in-chief kindly ordered them
clothing, so that all they had on was committed to the deep.
The officers collected linen among themselves for the female :
they were all supplied with King's provisions, which to them
must have been a perfect luxury.
In April, we got intelligence that the Commander-in-chief
was knighted and ordered home ; immediate preparations were
made for leaving the Tagus, every one anticipating the happi-
ness of seeing their friends. On the 18th, an old hulk, which
had been used as a coal depot for steam vessels, caught fire :
our launches were soon manned, with guns in them ; a few shot
under water quickly sent her down on her broadside, but not
till a great part of the coal was consumed.
June 28th arrived the H to relieve us, and exchanged
salutes. On the 2nd July, 1, p. M., we weighed and soon got
round St. Julian, with a fresh breeze at S. E., and bade adieu
to the shores of Portugal. 12th, dropped anchor at Spithead,
and at noon had the happiness of seeing my family after an
absence of nearly three years.
304
CHAPTER XXVI.
How sweet is the society of our friends ; it may be compared to a heap
of embers, which when placed asunder, can give neither light or heat amid sur-
rounding elements ; but when brought together mutually give forth both;
the flame bursts forth and not only defend itself, but subdues every thing
Around it.
IT was the hope of nearly all on board, that the ship would
have been paid off at Portsmouth; but just as we were getting
all ready to come up harbour, an order arrived for us to
proceed to Chatham. On the 14th, in the afternoon, we were
again under weigh ; after a fine run got abreast of Sheerness,
where the Phoenix was waiting to take us in tow ; just as the
steam vessel had got the hawsers fast, one of them being coiled
in the jolly boat, a young man named S , was in the coil ;
the steam vessel forged ahead, dragging the hawser out of the
boat, and with it the unfortunate young man, who before he
went over the bow was almost crushed to pieces. I heard his
last scream, it went to my very heart : he was the only hope
of a widowed mother, and much respected by all on board.
Only a few months before, (more from his good conduct than
from his age) Capt. R had kindly rated him ordinary
seaman. Three weeks afterwards, his body was picked up
305
and buried at the parish expence ; on paying off, a subscription
was set on foot for the poor mother, to which the Captain and
all the Officers most liberally contributed, and I think not a
seaman but gave his mite. I question, whether the oldest
seaman in the navy ever saw such a thing before,, but from
the moment of our arrival, to that of paying off, only three
men were seen intoxicated ; and the same routine of duty, the
same discipline, was observed the very morning of paying, as
had been carried on a year before.
July 23rd, at 10, A.M., the yacht came alongside, and by
noon, I was paid, and my certificate in hand. It has of late
years been the custom for Captains to endorse the certificate
with a written character ; I felt delighted, when on looking at
the back of mine, I read the following words, " an excellent
petty officer and very deserving ;" doubly pleasing as coming
from a man who was in every way competent to judge of men.
Whatever might have been the reason we knew not, but
we were surprised to see two of the largest steam vessels
under the British flag, come alongside, ready to take us, who
belonged to the Westward, to Portsmouth. Having charge
of some luggage belonging to Capt. R , I got a passage
in the first, the Medea, that beautiful specimen of steam power ;
and after a surprising run of eighteen hours, I landed on
Gosport beach, and by having a few cases to take care of,
gained twenty-four hours, and within twenty minutes I was at
home in comfort. Happy moments, how short, how fleeting.
That I left the A with a sensation of regret, I could never
have expected to feel on leaving a ship of war, is certain. I
could say with a certain writer to his coat
Old friend farewell ; full many a day,
In varied grief and joy has passed away,
Since you and I first met;
But by far the greatest share had been comfort. For several
weeks nothing was doing, no ships fitting out, and the Ports
dull to a degree. I soon found money melting away, and that
306
it was necessary to seek for something to do. To a man who
has a family, and who desires to fulfil the sacred duties he
owes them, employment is needful. I had frequently heard
of the E , and that several of my late shipmates had
joined her ; I followed their example, and do now, and ever
shall, feel truly thankful that I did so. I was fearful that
m y eye might be an obstacle, but the moment the Captain
heard the ship I came from, and saw my papers, I was imme-
diately entered. Of all the places presented by Her Majesty's
naval service for the good of seamen, I deem the E the
very best; those who wish to obtain a better education,
may have a good opportunity of doing so, and to a man of
low rank what is better than knowledge ; is it not one of the
greatest blessings it has pleased providence to allow us to cul-
tivate ? I know one petty officer, who had joined the ship
from the A but a few weeks before me, and on joining
did not know his own name when placed before him ; but
before he left, had gone through decimals. Here I passed
sixteen months in comfort, learnt the art of naval gunnery in
all its various branches, and on leaving her to join the M ,
obtained a certificate, Class No. 1, well endorsed as to con-
duct, &c. I felt grieved at leaving her, for I had hoped, ere
that time arrived to have obtained promotion ; for myself
alone I thought but little of it, but for my family it was greatly
to be desired.
Our outfit was very quick, for men were plentiful ; no ships
had been commissioned for several months. Early in March,
the ship went out of harbour ; on the 19th the Admiral came
on board, and the same evening weighed to go down channel.
Only for a few hours the wind continued fair; it slowly worked
itself round, and at last settled at S. E. with thick misty
weather, so as to render it unsafe to make the land again. We
had to bear the buffeting of the waves in the Bay of Biscay,
no very desirable place in March. Each day the wind regularly
iiicreased, until the 29th, when it became more moderate. On
so;
the 25th, while six men were employed furling the jib, some
part of which had been blown adrift, the ship gave a heavy
pitch and washed four of them over the boom ; three of them
held on the guys, but one let go his hold and went over board ;
the word " a man over board" soon called all hands on deck, the
ship, being close hauled, had but little way ; the helm was put
down, and every other means used, but he had sunk to rise
no more.
On the 28th, it blew a perfect gale ; the ship was hove to
under a main try-sail, and the sea awful ; during the first
watch, she repeatedly rolled 29 degrees, and rather more.
Just as the bell had struck five, i. e. half past ten at night, a
heavy sea struck her on the larboard bow, above half way
up the fore rigging, filled the waist, sent the launch, barge,
and booms to leeward, and started the coppers several feet.
She dipped her starboard quarter ^so much in the water, that
the cutter hanging at the davits, filled, and carrying away the
after davit, hung by the fore-mast tackle for some time, till
one of the main-top men went out and cut the life line, when
the rest carrying away, she drifted clear of the ship. Such a
vast quantity of water had collected on the lower deck, that it
was found necessary to scuttle it, in order to let[the water into
the hold, to the chain pumps, which were kept in full play all
the middle watch. Heavy peals of thunder, and occasional
flashes of lightning, gave us, for an instant, a full view
of the vast sheet of foam around us, and then as suddenly
buried us in tenfold darkness. The Captain never, for one
moment, left the deck during the first watch, but stood just
to windward of me the whole of my two hours, sometimes
passing observations on the weather ; and when the sea struck
her, coolly making remarks on the heaviness of each shock.
The absence of her guns on the lower deck made the ship feel
uneasy, and labour much more than she would otherwise have
done ; for though not much of a sailer, she was a good sea
308
boat. Several accidents took place during the gale, but mostly
among the marines, many of whom being newly raised recruits,
and being their first ship, found it difficult to hold on and ; by
letting go their hold, in many cases, got severely hurt ; one
in particular fell off the skidds into the waist, dislocated his
shoulder, and otherwise injured himself. Even amid the dire
of contending elements, it was almost impossible not to laugh
at the ludicrous scenes which took place. When the man fell
into the waist, an old Irish marine, whose face betokened long
service, was sitting under the lee of the bulwark ; when obser-
ving his comrade fall, he got up, and standing on the very spot
from which he had just fallen, hailed him with " are ye kilt
boy ?" but before the first could reply, had he been ever so
inclined, the ship gave a heavy pitch, and making a complete
summerset, he lay on his back close to his companion. Not
much hurt, he rose, and scratching his head, walked away,
vowing vengeance against the skidds. At last it became
moderate, and gave us an opportunity of repairing damages
by the late gales. April 3rd, spoke a brigantine from Zante,
to Liverpool, which four days before, had had her chief mate
and two seamen washed overboard. He was requested to
report the M all safe ; for, from the boats, and several
spars having been washed away, on all of which, the ship's
name was stamped, it might have been supposed by those
who picked them up, that we had foundered at sea. On the
6th, at 5, 30, P. M., dropped the best bower anchor in Madeira ;
a brig bound to London, was to sail in a few days, and by her
an opportunity of easing the minds of our friends as to our
safety, who, from the bad weather, we had experienced since
our sailing, must have been in the deepest anxiety. During
our stay here, a young man named M , whom I had known
for several years a member of a respectable family, went on
shore in a boat, of which he was part of the crew. Wine was
a rarity to him ; it was abundant and cheap, and the weather
hot ; he drank freely, and having once begun, could not stop.
309
Himself and three more were brought on board in-ar ^horrid
state of intoxication ; the others recovered, but poor M
lingered for some weeks, and died a victim to wine, and pos-
sibly some bad spirits mixed with it fatal passion for drink,
by which man is so often brought into bondage, when exposed
to its attacks. Aware of the dangers he not only brings on
himself, but perhaps on all hands ; certain, that on board a
ship of war, punishment must, and ought to follow, drunken-
ness. Unheedful of what may occur, some seamen drink
until very frequently life falls a sacrifice to their ruling passion.
To me, it appears that drunkenness leaves behind a pang, which
poisons every sense of human enjoyment, makes life noteless,
and its end terrible. At sea or on shore, if once given way
to, it conquers ; gains admittance into the cojttage of the
Peasant ; thunders at the portal of the great ; finds its way
into the retirement of the sage's chamber, and turns his
boasted wisdom into foolishness.
Having completed with water, obtained a supply of wine,
fresh beef, vegetables, fruit, &c., on the 1 1th, we weighed, and
in two days were running down the trades. To a stranger,
who for the first time in his life, enters those regions of delight,
it imparts a pleasure seldom felt before. Steady breezes, all
sail set, smooth water, flying fish endeavouring to escape the
dolphin, and often flying into his very jaws. The nautilus
and the ravenous shark ; shoals of porpoises swimming round
the bows, all tend to give employment to the mind, and ren-
der the scene pleasing.
Sunday, May 1st, we got a sight of the Bermudas 5 no
part of this numerous group of islands is visible, beyond six-
teen or eighteeen miles at most. St. David's head, the highest
part of all, is scarcely 1 86 feet above the level of the sea, and
for that reason dangerous of access. A mere speck on this vast
ocean, it proves a grave to many a hardy tar, whose ship strikes
on the many coral reefs with which it is surrounded. The
Channel is at all times dangerous, and should by no means
310
be attempted, without an experienced pilot on board. One of
the best pilots on the island, named Smith, took us up, and
favoured with a fair and fresh breeze, about noon we anchored
off the Admiral's house. Here we found the P , the ship
we came to relieve ; exchanged salutes, and went through all
the et ceteras of relieving each other, and thus parted ; the
P , taking our bag of letters with her. Of all the places
I ever saw, I think Bermuda, from the anchorage, and from
the sea, is most beautiful ; but like a painted doll, it is nothing
after all, for its produce is little or nothing. As the ship
sailed up on either side of the channel, the gentle rising of
the ground, covered with beautiful green brushwood ; the
white-washed houses, backed by groves of lofty cedars ; here
and there, small villages, and a church, whose high spire
attracts the sight, render the island pleasing and interesting
to the eye ; but the sight is the only sense it can gratify.
Land, and all these bright visions vanish, for then you find
that the soil is unproductive and rocky, and refuses to man the
reward of, his labour. Only here and there may be seen a
small plot of ground, cultivated with immense toil, for pota-
toes, and a few of the rough vegetables of other climes ; the
only thing which seems to do well here, is arrow-root, which
is without doubt, the best in the West Indies. Bread is
always dear, never less, and frequently more than three pence
sterling, per pound ; fish is also sold by the pound, and the
price very high, but it varies. Only some years back, water
was by no means scarce, but now that government have
placed numerous tanks about the islands, it is sufficiently
plentiful. The second Sunday of our stay, I obtained leave
to go to Hamilton, the capital of the islands, which, consi-
dering the place, is well built, and full of trade ; t spent the
day with our pilot, a man of colour, who was married to a
white woman, and had a numerous family ; he was a very
intelligent man, and from him I experienced that hospitality I
could scarcely have hoped for. In the course of conversation,
311
he told me that he was born a slave, and purchased soon after
his birth by his father, who himself was free ; but in conse-
quence of having married a slave, the children became the
property of the owner of the mother. In the afternoon, I
went to chapel, with all his family, and upon the whole,
spent the day very comfortably. What a contrast in the past,
and present of these now favoured isles : once the habitation
of a horde of pirates, who found ample security for themselves
in the numerous caves which abound here ; and safety for
their vessels, within the reef of coral that surrounds these
islands ; waiting to pounce upon the luckless vessel that might
heave in sight, and spending their lives in injuring the persons,
and properties of their fellow creatures ; since that time, it
has been the abode of slavery, where man sold his fellow man,
without thought or mercy.
Now the land of the free, a bright example to this vast Archi-
pelago. A brother mason at whose house I had once called,
at Hamilton, told me that in six days the anniversary of the
abolition of slavery was to be kept. It was not the right day,
that being in August, but for some reason, I could not divine,
this was appointed. The same person also kindly invited
me, if I could obtain leave, to spend the day with him, and
view that delightful scene, where every heart, overflowing with
gratitude, for the blessings they enjoyed, would join in praying
for prosperity, on the' exertions of the great and good men,
through whose endeavours they had reached their present
happiness by emancipation.
On the appointed day I again asked for leave, but the ship
was then under sailing orders. Commander E could not
grant it, but referred me to Capt. D , who kindly sent me
on duty. I felt the delicacy of the favour, and was grateful
for the indulgence.
On this ever memorable day to the slave population of
Bermuda, I landed early in the morning ; all seemed bustle,
but there existed no confusion. The houses of entertainment
312
at Hamilton, were all decorated with flowers ; the Negroes,
dressed in their best, were hastening to the various places of
worship, which were filled to excess. 1 however managed to
get into one of them ; it was pleasing to see the delight that
beamed in every eye, and the fervour with which they responded
the hearty Amen, to the various appropriate prayers offered up
by the Missionary. After the service was over, each family in
good order went to the house appointed, where a good dinner
was prepared, for which, in many instances their former master
paid; the settled price being one dollar for the males, and
three quarters of a dollar for the females, and children above
nine years of age ; those under that age were free. The person
at whose house I was then a visitor, had managed to provide
for seventy of them ; as they sat down to dinner, 1 went in,
and in order to avoid that notice, a stranger gazing on them
might attract, and possibly marr their comfort, 1 took my
jacket off and carried one of the dishes in, and thus was taken
either as one of the household or an assistant. How sweet
would such a scene have been to the sight of those through
whose exertions it was attained ; the view would in my opinion
have repaid them for years of labour. Years are gone by
since with one united voice, these sons of Africa cried ff oh
burst our bonds and set us free," Britannia has heard their
imploring cry, and shewn the bright, the noble example.
Haste happy day when foreign nations shall follow it.
As many ceremonies passed during and after dinner, as if
the master of the ceremonies at Bath, had been their instructor ;
but when the generous wine (of which a certain portion was
included in the dinner) began to warm the blood and reach
the heads of the gentlemen of colour, it became laughable to
hear the toasts that were given ; one old man, the oldest in the
company, whose name was Peter Gush, and whose head was
silvered over with age, sported a metal watch and a bright
steel chain, in the fullness of his heart, gave the first toast.
He rose and addressing the party, said, gentlemen, hab a
313
toast to give, <e may de wing of liberty shine like Peter Gush
wash sham," i. e. watch chain. In one moment all the black
fists were thundering applause upon the table, and made the
glasses ring again. Families were seated together, from the
aged grandfather to the babe at the breast. One little group
was particularly interesting; the principal person was a
stout well-built negro, his wife sat by his side, a tall finely
proportioned and really handsome woman, though jet black ;
born as I supposed on these islands and descended from Mu-
dian parents, she had neither the woolly head,* flat nose, or
thick lips of Africa, but a certain dignity of aspect, seldom seen
in a black. Her left arm encircled a fine boy, about ten months
old, who rested, in the oriental fashion, upon the hip bone,
with her body inclined to the right, to preserve her balance ;
two little urchins clung to her knees, laughing and showing
their fine rows of ivory to advantage. The husband and the
father, stood leaning over the back of his chair, looking at his
children with an eye, the expression of which seemed to say,
ye are now free ; there was a manliness in the expression of
his countenance I have seldom seen equalled in men of colour.
The whole of the pretty group were so neatly dressed, and
decorous in their manners, that I felt my interest in them rising
every moment. A Mr. T told me afterwards that the man
with five others had been his property, and from three of them
being tradesmen, were worth to him six dollars per day ; at
the emancipation, he had valued them as low as he possibly
could, but even that had been so curtailed, that he found him-
self sinking to ruin ; when providentially he obtained a situation
under government, in the victualling department, where he
now is. Mr. T told me farther, that formerly, when the
negroes were sold, independently of the important considera-
tion of being purchased by good masters, they had a singular
species of pride on these occasions of fetching a high price,
holding it, among themselves, disgraceful to be sold for a small
sum of money. This fact not only shews how difficult it is
x
314
entirely to subdue the love of distinction, but may be useful
in teaching us, never to take it for granted that any one,
bearing the human frame, however degraded in the scale, is
without some traces of generous feeling. I have in many
instances found it so. and on looking at the animated faces
around me, I could see a glow of gratitude which convinced
me that the memory of the heart was no stranger to the negro's
breast ; dinner over, all sort of games were carried on, which
ended the day. Next forenoon, I went to one of the schools,
under the superintendence of the Wesleyan Missionary, in-
tended for negro as well as mulatto children ; it was another
interesting scene in the course of this busy day ; they were
ranged on seats round a very large room ; not a murmur was
to be heard, except when any particular class were repeating
their lessons, a mouse might have been heard in the room.
Poor little creatures, their whole hearts seemed to be thrown
into their lessons ; they were instructed by a man who had been
accustomed to teach negroes, and who had devoted many years
of his life exclusively to the subject ; he told me that even in
Bermuda, where slavery is entirely done away with, a black
man meets with no real esteem or sympathy on the part of
the white lords of the creation ; consequently let the negro be
ever so industrious or well informed, still he seemed stamped
with degradation. Mutual confidence, the most important link
of society is broken, and when this is the case, there is no
other method of attaching to its interest a class of beings so
circumstanced, between whom and the whites, all fellow feeling
is invariably prevented from growing up.
Temperance societies are forming all over the island ; many
of the sober minded population aware of the frightful evils
of drunkenness, are making great efforts to check its effects,
particularly among the blacks ; little success has as yet atten-
ded their exertions.
On the 24th, at 9, A. M., weighed and made sail. At noon,
on passing St. David's Head, the thermometer was up to 84,
315
and on the following Thursday, about 180 miles South of Cape
Chapeau rouge, the wind suddenly veered to N. W., the ther-
mometer sunk to 28J, and the weather was thick, which made
it dangerous to near the land. On the morning of the 28th, we
fell in with a shallop, riding on the outer banks. On the 30th,
came to, off the Dock-yard, and commenced a complete refit ;
the snow was still on the ground in several of the inland parts,
which makes vegetation very late ; but when it does grow,
it grows rapidly.
In June, a large tribe of Indians came out of the woods
where they had wintered, and employed themselves in making
various articles of use and ornament for the Halifax Market ;
there were from 60 to 80 huts, or wigwams, each containing
one family, and the whole under one Chief. One fine after-
noon in July, being on leave, I took a walk to their village,
and remained there above three hours, looking among the old
faces, if I could see the features of any I had once known ; but
I saw none. The many years, and great changes that had taken
place, no doubt altered them, so that neither of us could have
recognized the other. Their manners were unimproved ; huts
built the same, simply with three poles (some have but one),
in the shape of a triangle, covered with the bark of the birch
tree, which taken off* at certain seasons, answers well for the
purpose. Under this frail covering, the Indian and all his
family stretch their weary limbs at night, with their feet to the
fire, which occupies the middle of the wigwam ; and there rest
with as much security, as if surrounded by stone walls. If he
obtains a sufficiency of food, he is careless and fearless of what
may follow. At night, they light fires at the water's edge,
which attracts great numbers of lobsters to the shore, which
they catch, and in a great measure supply the market. Not the
slightest difference existed in the house of the Chief; all were
filthy alike, and disagreable to sight and smell. The dress of
their Chief was far more gaudy than any of his tribe. He was
x2
316
a fine well-built man of about forty ; his dress consisted of a
sky blue frock coat, thickly edged with red tape ; a sort of
epaulet of the same, with long ends hanging down in front ;
waistcoat of a particular cut^ with buttons made from a small
Spanish silver coin ; trowsers fitting tight at the knee, and
then becoming extremely broad, ending in the form of a gaiter,
and edged also with red tape ; mocassins made from seal skin,
thickly laid over with porcupine's quills ; large silver rings in
his ears, and from his neck hung a large silver cross, from a
chain of the same metal. He seemed void of pride, and al-
though I did not expect much courtesy, I ventured to address
him, and was immediately answered ; he spoke good English,
but from his constant intercourse with the Canadians, he pre-
ferred French. We had a long chat, during which he told
me that nearly all his tribe had been baptized by a Catholic
Priest, and that they attended divine worship regularly. I
went into his wigwam, and even that of the Chief of a nume-
rous tribe of Indians, presented a scene of confusion and filth.
All of them had taken some English name ; one among them
from whom I purchased a pair of mocassins, was named James
Powell. He told me that the Commander-in-chief, three years
before, on his visiting him, had presented him with six bottles
of gun-powder, of which from its large grain, the Indians, as
well as Newfoundlanders, are particularly fond. In one of the
huts of this Indian encampment, I saw a young girl, a most
interesting object ; she had nothing at all of the Indian look,
nor any thing of it in her person : her face was dirty from
the smoke of the fire, but if clean, it would have been fair ;
her hair light auburn, and her features pleasing ; her whole
appearance spoke something superior to the Indians. Sup-
posing her a Canadian, I spoke French to her, but received
no answer to several questions. She seemed determined not
to speak, and either would not, or could not understand me.
I enquired from some one near who she was, b,ut none seemed
317
inclined to satisfy my curiosity, and I left them, convinced
that something very particular was the cause of her dwelling
there ; at all events it could not be compulsion.
September 23rd, 1836, just before sunset, the telegraph
announced that a vessel was on shore off the light house,
without saying which house light it was. An immediate
order was issued for all boats to aid the vessel in distress ;
the light boats were sent off to wards Sambro, while the launch
was ordered to repair to Major's Beach. The boat was im-
mediately manned, and only waiting for the officer, when
Commander E looking over the gangway, asked me what
I waited for ; I answered for Mr. , sir. " Shove off," said
the Commander, and away I went. Very soon after, it came
on very dark, and the wind which was at S. W., freshened with
small rain ; I had to make several tacks, so that it was nine
o'clock before I got outside of the light house ; hot far from
which is Thrum Cap Shoal, a most dangerous place for vessels
not well acquainted with the place. As we neared it, we
could distinguish between us and the horizon, the form of
a vessel on the shoal ; I immediately let go the anchor, and
veered all my cable out 45 fathoms, but with that she drifted,
and it was likely that without prompt exertions we should soon
be alongside the Zephyr (which was her name) ; and instead
of assisting, share her fate. The anchor was weighed, the
main-sheet hauled aft, and I stood on the stern sheets watching
the paying off of the boat's head, the tiller between my legs,
when the main sheet gave way, the outer block of which striking
me on the head, knocked me clean overboard. It certainly
was a careless posture to stand in just then, and I paid dearly
for it. The last thing I can recollect was hearing one of the
men exclaim f( oh my God, there is poor B overboard,"
if any one ever felt the dreadful pressure of the water while
sinking ; the rushing it makes in his ears, the confused ideas
that fill his head, he may judge how I felt ; my wife, my
children, crowded before me, in the horrors of that moment;
318
I must at last have lost my senses, for the sea rolled me across
the Zephyr's chain cable, and most probably the sudden con-
cussion brought me to, for by a convulsive grasp I hauled
myself up, and was again letting go my hold, when a power-
ful hand caught my collar, and I heard with joy " you are safe
my boy ;" I was rolled for sometime on an empty cask, no very
pleasing remedy, though it occasioned me to throw up what
water I had swallowed; for sometime I had not power to
utter a word, though perfectly sensible ; I however recovered.
It became moderate and fine, our light boats returned, and
one of them put me into the launch; next morning we
lightened the Zephyr, and the next night she floated off and
was got safe alongside the wharf. A committee of merchants
assembled to consider the reward to be given to the salvors,
when it was agreed to give the officers who went out to
Sambro a certain sum, to each of the men five shillings, and
to those who had been all night about the wreck fifteen shil-
lings each man. Halifax is now so well surveyed, and so well
known, that it may be supposed every master of a merchant
vessel is acquainted with it, but as the Zephyr's going on the
shoal, proves that not to be the case, I would advise the
masters of merchant vessels, (and I speak from frequently
entering and going out myself, when in charge of a vessel) to
bring Sambro light to bear W. N. W., and then bear up to
N. -J W., which takes you exactly to the Tower on George's
Island. No lead is required in the darkest night ; half twelve
will be the general sounding ; and \ a cables length is suffi-
cient offing for Major's Beach, which is left on the starboard
quarter, and so astern as you go on.
On the 1 7th August a regatta took place, at which all the
amateur boats met ; it was intended that they should first
start, but from the very little wind, the preference was given
to the galleys ; the race was to be a distance of nearly three
miles, and back round George's Island ; next to the galleys,
started twelve Indian Canoes with males, which after an
319
admirably contested race was won by a fine powerful young
Indian, named Jones. Twelve canoes paddled by females,
was the most amusing, for such was their eagerness to
gain the prize, (twelve dollars) that the canoes frequently
paddled foul of each other ; and before they got back, two of
them were capsized, giving the females in it a complete
ducking, without the least notice being taken of it by their
companions, who paddled on as if unconscious of the event ;
leaving them to recover their gravity in the best way they
could. An old woman won the race, and was received at
the starting buoy with loud cheers. Amateur boats were
next, among which was the M : 's launch, bearing the white
and green flag, presented by the lovely Miss -, who, on
giving the flag, also gave her the name Kate-, there was
nothing very interesting in this race.
Great preparations had been made for a ball on board the
ship ; given by the officers, to all the nobility and gentry ol
Halifax. Some days before, the ship had been hauled close to
the jetty, and fitted up with care and attention. From the jetty
to the ship, (about forty yards long,) a bridge was erected,
well covered over with canvas, the inside neatly lined with
flags in festoons, mixed with evergreens; at the entrance,
was a very large burner with reflectors, one in the middle and
the third at the inner end ; which gave an opening view of the
upper deck, or ball room. The awnings had been raised
twenty feet from the deck, and completely lined with flags and
standards of foreign nations. 1 he Standard of England, and
Flag of France, waved gracefully at the upper end of the room,
which of course was the after part of the ship. Over head, and
in the cent&t^ was hung an immense chandelier, composed of
three large hoops, to which were attached all the marine's
bayonets, inverted, and large wax lights in each of the sockets;
which from the brightness of the bayonets, gave a dazzling
light. At either end hung another smaller chandelier, and
rows of lanthorns adorned the sides. In the center, and
320
before the quarter-deck, were rows of evergreens, forming
pleasant walks, and terminating in a bower called love's bower.
Every thing that rose above a level had been removed, leaving
all smooth for the dancers; the ship's company except a
chosen few, had gone to the P ; the main deck was a sort
of promenade, where those fatigued with dancing or oppressed
with heat could walk. The lower deck presented the most
pleasing sight after all ; the fore part near the manger was
parted, off by a sort of grating made from boarding pikes, on
each side of which were rows of evergreens intermixed with
variegated lamps. The after part, at the gun-room bulkhead,
was also adorned with evergreens and flags, with lamps and
reflectors ; on each side of the deck was a table ninety-eight
feet long, and seven and a half broad, groaning under the
weight of provisions. Delicacies of all kinds were there, the
produce of all climes, no one thing seemed to have been ne-
glected ; one general feeling of liberality seemed to pervade the
whole ; here then above four hundred ladies and gentlemen
spent the evening, and such an assemblage of female beauty
was seldom seen. From the brunette of Nova Scotia, to the fair
of our happy clime, here, as every where else, England's fair
daughters bore the palm ; dancing continued till long after day
light. By six all were gone, and the ball room perfectly quiet ;
tired myself, I laid down under one of the tables, and had a
comfortable siesta ; the ball room was left in statu quo, for
several days, to gratify the curiosity of the good people of Hali-
fax, who were permitted a passage through the yard to view it.
August 27th, an awful fire broke out at ten at night, at a
brewery, nearly in the centre of the town ; the fire bell soon
announced the dreadful calamity, doubly so, because nearly
all the houses were built of wood, and so connected one with
the other, that if one takes fire, the others mostly follow. Boats'
crews and firemen were immediately sent to assist, and shortly
tiller eleven, the first engine commenced playing ; to attempt
to put the fire out, was useless, the only object was to stop its
321
further progress; for which purpose, it was necessary to
tear down several houses, over which the wind blew the sparks.
The fire continued raging sixteen hours, during which, thirty
four houses were completely burnt to the ground, some of
which were inhabited by two or more families, who having
laid in their stock of fuel and provisions for the approaching
winter, were in one hour deprived of their little all, and left
upon the wide world, exposed to misery and want. One poor
woman, who had been just awoke in time to save her life, on
coming to the door, the recollection of something she had left
behind burst upon her memory ; she rushed back through the
flames, and only a few steps in, fell among the burning ruins,
and would without any doubt have perished, but for a gallant
youth, a mate of our ship, named W , who thoughtless of
his own danger, sprung through the flames, and brought her
out senseless in his arms.
Not far from the fire, resided a very aged lady, then above
eighty years of age, the mother of one of the foremen of the
Dock-yard ; I once had been at her house, and been kindly
treated by the venerable old woman. In the course of the
night, I observed that the sparks were blowing over and
beyond her house ; I soon got four of my boat's crew as volun-
teers, went round to her house, and finding that all were up,
and the house likely soon to ignite, removed all the furniture
into the middle of an adjoining piece of ground, which lay
uncultivated, and assisted her to remove to a house out of
danger. An engine soon came, and having saturated the house
well with water, prevented further damage. When all was
over, myself and the same men removed the furniture back
to its former place, nothing lost or mislaid, and scarcely
injured. During the exertions of the night, and chief part
of the day, I felt much thirst, but no desire to eat. The
Captain never for one moment left the spot; both himself and
the Commander were employed in directing the labours of
the men, and although there were men from three different
322
ships, no irregularity or misconduct took place; all were
active and willing; indeed I have frequently observed that
where fires take place, on shore, in foreign parts, all seems lost
until Jack makes his appearance, when all becomes activity
and bustle. A few days after, the Captain conveyed to us the
approbation of the Admiral, and thanks of the inhabitants of
the town, who were, said they, convinced, that to our exertions
might be attributed the safety of the lower part of the town ;
thus we were left to refit upon thanks.
Some persons run away with a foolish idea, that a seaman is
above receiving a recompense for doing his duty ; and with-
out doubt, they are so, when that duty is imposed on them by
the laws of their country ; but when humanity alone calls on
them, and their greatest exertions are required to save life
and property, though it still may be a duty, it is a very dif-
ferrent case from the other. Who ever saw the British tar
backward; does not the glow of enthusiasm fill his bosom, as he
enters upon an arduous undertaking, and does he then only
deserve bare thanks ? Thanks alone, will not go far in soothing
the pain of scorched limbs, or in replacing a blue jacket, when
scorched and rendered useless ; as was among many others, my
case in this, and other shore fires. I was several days in the
Surgeon's list, and for weeks obliged to attend him to dress
my left hand, which had been dreadfully burnt in taking hold
of a red hot graplin, which having been so often in the fire,
destroying the houses, it at last became impossible to use
it more.
On the 20th, one of the first Merchants in Halifax wishing
to go up another arm of the bay, to a country seat of his, at
a considerable distance, the launch, which was completely a
yacht, was lent him, myself in charge, and six of the most
steady men of her crew. The whole family, consisting of two
young gentlemen, whom I took to be his sons, and three
daughters, with a friend who occupied the afterpart of the
boat; while the lockers were well stowed with sundry baskets of
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provisions, accompanied by many bottles of wine, ale, porter,
&c., which promised an ample supply of the good things of
this world to the boat's crew, myself of course included.
Favoured with a fine breeze, and a beautiful day at noon, we
arrived at the spot where Mr. C and his family intended
to spend the day ; there was but one house near it, and a few
straggling huts. Having no officer over me, I promised
myself a comfortable cruize, out of hearing of the shrill pipe,
nor was I deceived ; I did enjoy myself far more than I could
have expected, away from those I loved. Among the party,
was a sweet little boy, the very picture of one of my own ;
fair, with light hair, hanging down over his shoulders ; even
his frock, though possibly of better materials, was the same
colour ; moreover, I felt interested in the lovely boy. Who
has ever looked into the face of childhood, without feelings of
the deepest anxiety, as to its future fate ? We know that if life
remains, the smooth brow must wrinkle with age, the bright
eye grow dim, and worse than all, the young small heart that
beats so calmly within its intricate breast, must become worn
and hackneyed in the world's ways. Life, whether spent in a
palace, or a cottage, is a continued miracle ; the most won-
derful miracle of him, whose name is wonderful.
But to return. A marquee was very soon spread; mats laid
on the ground for tables ; provisions brought on shore ; and as
soon as this amiable family had finished their meal, the boat's
crew were called to replace them, and desired to enjoy them-
selves ; and we certainly did credit to our good cheer. At
night, the family slept in the house, leaving myself and the
men to look out for ourselves ; with the square sail we made
an awning, lit a fire in the stove, and slept soundly in the
sternsheets of the boat. By ten, the next morning, the party
were again in the boat ; the boat shoved off, and going on her
way upward. At one o'clock, we arrived at the place of our
destination. During the day's journey, a general conversation
was kept up amonp: the family, sometimes asking me ques-
324
tions about ships of war, and other subjects ; at last, one of
the young ladies began addressing the others in French, and
from what passed, I found that none of the gentlemen present
understood one word of it. While the conversation continued
on indifferent subjects, I said nothing, but when I found that
it turned upon things, which I knew could not be intended
for my ears, I dropped the tiller, and addressing the person
who first spoke French, said, pardon me miss, but whatever
you may have to say to each other, that you do not wish
others to hear, do not say it in French or Italian, for I
understand both perfectly ; vermillion could scarcely have
given a finer tinge to the cheeks of the person I addressed.
Mr. C , said, " well coxswain, that certainly is generous
of you, for had you held your tongue, you might have got
possession of all their little secrets.
Three days elapsed, and we again proceeded homeward :
during which, while steering, I of course sat almost among
this interesting family, frequently amusing myself with the
innocent prattle of the charming boy. During the last day
Mr. C asked me a great many questions about my former
life, possibly at first merely to employ himself, but I observed
at last, he became interested in my replies, and when I landed
the party at his own wharf, Mr. C said to me in the
kindest manner, " well coxswain should you at the expiration
of your twenty-one years revisit Halifax, from personal obser-
vation, as well as from general character, I will insure you
good employment; 5 ' I felt sincerely grateful. There is a
French Proverb which warns us never to say Fontaine, je ne
boirai jamais de ton eau ; I thought possibly I might be in
want of employment, and Halifax would be a good port
under my lee.
Now in a few days a total change took place, the leaves
dropped off the trees, vegetation drooped, and nothing re-
mained to cheer the eye in all the gardens, save the evergreens,
and even these presented yellow boughs. On the 17th, the
325
Commander-in-chiePs family came on board, and at 2, P. M.
the bridles were shipped amid a heavy shower of snow, and a
heavy breeze at N. E., and the ship scudded beautifully along
the town, and then to the Southward into more genial climes.
Only three days after, the thermometer had again risen to 68^ ;
one, among many changes, the constitution of the seaman has
to bear; 22nd, we again came to off Little Ireland, the Naval
Dock-yard, at Bermuda.
Only a few days from our arrival, several of our men went
on shore, merely for an afternoon's recreation. I was one of
the number, but not feeling any relish for such company as
they were likely to meet with, I got one of the Mudians to
accompany me into one of those immense caves, so common
in these islands. The hollow, or as it was called the cave,
which I went to, was one, which in mining, had been lately
discovered ; and from its vast extent, was likely even to injure
the foundation of the house, not many years before built for
the residence of the Commodore of the Dock-yard. From
this place I collected, with infinite labour, a valuable collection
of stones, congealed waters, &c. With as much as I could well
carry, and that was no great deal, from the ruggedness of the
ascent, I hastened to the top, and returned for one single piece,
much resembling an icicle, which I found hanging from the
roof. On my re-ascending a second time, however all my
specimens were gone gone as if by magic, not a vestige of
them left ; no soul in sight, nor had either of us seen any
one. All endeavours to find them were unavailing; my
labour was lost, and what became of them has ever been a
mystery to me.
ax^
cX
326
CHAPTER XXVII.
There are mysteries in Heaven, in the Earth, and in the Ocean, which move
the Sage to meditate, the Poet to think, and the Fool to laugh ; but they are
alike, inscrutable to all.
AND thus it proved with my specimens, I never found out
what became of them. Our next place of destination was
Jamaica ; a certain dread of going to the West Indies, hung
upon my mind, which I found it impossible to overcome. I
was aware it was a weakness and a folly, but it nevertheless
remained ; 1 verily believe that many a man owes his death
to the dread of a sickly climate, and not taking the necessary
precautions to secure health. If I dare offer any advice to a
friend about to visit such a climate, I would say, never touch
spirits ; as little wine as possible ; never check the perspiration,
and bathe at evening and morning regularly, if you can, and
above all keep out of the dew ; such was my routine, and I
enjoyed my health perfectly well. It will possibly be a mat-
ter of doubt to some, but the M , a ship bearing 430 men
upon her books, was in Jamaica 14 days, and not one single
man on the Surgeon's list.
On the 1st of February, we entered Port Royal, with the
sea breeze, and anchored off the Dock-yard. The first thing
327
that strikes the eye of a stranger on entering Port Royal, is
the palisades, a long low point covered with small brushwood,
and thickly studded with grave stones; a place where thousands
of our countrymen lie, having fallen victims to the ravages of
fever incident to this fatal climate. At first sight it is well
calculated to impress the mind with dread, and calls on us
to prepare, for ours may be the next grave filled up. During
our stay at Port Royal, I was daily sent fishing, and once
landed, near the palisades, to haul the seine. Determined to see
the place, although I had to wade up to my middle in water,
I got across, and found the graves so thick, that it was impos-
sible to tread clear of them. Land crabs are in great numbers,
and make one shudder as they start from among the verdure
on your approach ; which I suppose gave rise to a saying the
negroes use, when they quarrel with the whites, " ah, massa,
land crab hab you by and by."
I had one single jaunt to Kingston, which, if healthy, would
be a pleasant place ; but the heat is excessive, as above it a
range of high mountains rear their heads, which prevent the
sea breeze from having its proper effect, in dispersing the
foul vapours hanging over the town. It seems to me that an
inhabitant of Kingston can seldom breathe pure air. Shortly
after our arrival, dispatches were received from Carthagena,
stating that for some cause, just or unjust, his Britannic
Majesty's consul was a prisoner in a loathsome dungeon ; ap-
plication had been repeatedly made to the Authorities for his
release, but with no effect. Soon after the arrival of the dis-
patches, the signal flew, "prepare to sail at dawn." At 4, A. M.,
the M was under a crowd of canvas, taking advantage of
the land breeze, followed by n frigate of 44 guns and two brigs.
About the 6th, both ships came to in very shallow water,
and before the anchor was well down, a telegraph announced
that the Consul was free ; all hope of seeing a shot fired in
anger, was by this done away. I had a very old debt to pay
myself to these same Carthagenians ; for many years since
328
my poor father, while trading in these seas, was wrecked not
far from this place ; only himself and his chief mate escaped,
all the rest perished, and the vessel went to pieces. After
suffering hardships almost beyond bearing, they found their
way to Carthagena, where,, almost starved, they were made
prisoners, and as Englishmen, and heretics, subjected to
every species of insult. I saw the log of the vessel, which
had been continued years afterward, and their sufferings
must have been dreadful. Now though I freely forgave, I
could not forget, and should like well to have had one or two
shot at their batteries, just to make them pay to the British
Flag, that respect which is its due. The satisfaction de-
manded was given, and the M returned to Port Royal,
leaving a frigate to see tranquillity restored.
On the 1st of March, at 5, p. M., we again took in the
mooring bridle in Port Royal. A stream anchor was im-
mediately laid out to bring the ship's broadside to the wind ;
both ports being. jWell up, it admits a free circulation of air.
and blows off every thing unpleasant; and for the time of
the succeeding calm, the decks remain cool and comfortable.
Care and attention of Commanding Officers and Surgeons in
the West Indies, as well as other hot climates, tend, in a great
measure to prevent sickness, and when come, to prevent
its progress, as in the case of the M ; for I never yet
heard of a ship of 74 guns being in Port Royal so long, and
not a man on the Surgeon's list. On the arrival of the dis-
patches, it was found that the Admiral had been promoted to
blue at the main, and that it was expected we should im-
mediately return to England.
15th, slipped the moorings for the Grand Cayman, and on
the l?th, at 10, p. M., we saw the fires made by the people on
the Cayman, to attract fish on shore. Next evening came
to, but the ship swinging in shore, she was found too close, and
the anchor was again weighed, and we stood off and on all night.
Sunday morning, several boats came off to the ship with
329
turtle and fish of different kinds, and abundance of curious
shells which were sold very cheap, and were eagerly bought
by the seamen as curiosities. Such is the danger of the Grand
Cayman to ships, that it is seldom without wrecks ; only a
few days before our arrival, a brig, the Mary of New York,
struck on the South-side of it, and there remained ; the crew
were all saved. Of late years, many families from the West India
Islands have emigrated here, for the purpose of catching turtle
to supply the markets. Several small vessels are constantly
kept running to and from the islands ; two were loading at the
time of our being there. 20th, we left the Cayman, from the
Havannah, and after a very fine run, on the 24th, hove to out-
side of the Havannah. It being Good Friday, a day of which
all good Catholics think much, all was bustle and confusion.
There were in the port an old Spanish line of battle ship, two
frigates, and several smaller vessels ; all had their yards topped
in deep mourning, and to several of their fore yard-arms was
hung an effigy of Judas. The merchant vessels had only
their colours half mast, except here and there, where some par-
ticular devotee lay, who followed in the wake of the ships of war.
The English and Americans had none up. The Spanish
Admiral came out to pay his respects to the British Flag.
Our boats went on shore, in one of which I was ; on landing,
I could not help observing how widely different the slaves look
to those of the West India Islands : here it seemed to me that
a deep dejection was visible in every black face. One of
the Negroes at the landing place, told me, that to them all
days, all hours were alike ; there was no respite from labour,
no time for recreation ; and although each had a small portion
of land allowed him, his time was so taken up, that it either
lay idle or produced so little as to pay nothing.
Among the many vessels laying here, it is easy to distinguish
those employed in the traffic of slaves ; the sharpness of their
build, neat rigging and trim appearance, but too well denote
the fatal trade they are engaged in ; and although Cuba is sur-
330
rounded with cruisers, and the African Rivers blockaded up,
still many slavers escape. 26th, we made sail for Bermuda : on
the passage, a heavy gale came on, which lasted about thirty
hours, the flashes of lightning were really awful ; one flash
completely deprived me of sight for several minutes, and slip-
ping my foot, 1 fell into the waist and put my shoulder out of
joint. The pain was very great ; the Surgeon every day com-
forted me with better to-morrow/ 5 but many a sad to-morrow
came and went, and I still suffered. April 3rd, we again
anchored in Bermuda ; during our present stay, a large barque,
on her way from Marseilles to New York, during a heavy gale,
ran on the rocks ; providentially she ran over the outer reef, and
perched herself on two rocks of coral, on an inner reef, by
which means the crew saved themselves in their boats ; but
the cargo which consisted of wine, silks, and sulphur, was
nearly all lost, or so far damaged as to sell for little or nothing.
For several weeks the wreckers found full employment.
As it was known among the ship's company that our orders
for England had arrived, every one was anxious to sail as soon
as possible. Seamen in general love a wandering life ; change
of scene is necessary to keep them in tune ; however comfortable
his ship may be, he is not satisfied, but wisnes for a change.
For my part, strange as it may appear, had I, as a petty officer
or an able seaman, the choice of two ships ; the one where every
man did nearly as he chose; or one where discipline was
carried on rigidly ; without undue severity, the latter should
be my choice, and the latter would without doubt be the most
comfortable.
16th April, we slipped the moorings, with light winds and
favourable, and gently glided along the glossy surface of the
water, saluting and saluted as we passed, and took a farewell
look at the Bermudas. Even to a strange place, " farewell"
seems a painful word ; how must it then be, when it is home
we leave ; but "the hope of return, takes the sting from adieu."
As we passed St. George's, the Military band played, " Thy
331
sailor lad must bid good bye/' ours, " The girl I left behind
me." During the first three days of our passage, we had
fresh breezes at S. W. ; on the fourth day, at two in the mor-
ning, the wind suddenly shifted directly to the opposite quarter,
bringing with it, a heavy shower of hail and snow, so that the
thermometer, which at midnight was up to 66, at four o'clock
was down to 42J ; a change so sudden and uncommon, had a
sensible effect upon all hands ; and as we neared the Coast of
North America, the cold increased, so that on the 20th, when
we came to an anchor, it was four degrees below the freezing
point. A slight refit of only a few days, and we were ready
for our expected relief.
Even at this season, advanced as it is, when our own
country is rich in all the bloom of summer, Halifax is bitter
cold, which is doubly felt by those just come from a hot climate ;
the days indeed were pretty mild, but no sooner does the sun
dip the horizon, than it again freezes. Time seemed to have
fled fast ; sixteen full months had gone by, since I stood on the
poop, gazing wistfully on the loved spot, which though fettered
in the chains of winter, was to me full of beauty ; and which I
knew contained hearts rich in all the plentitude of love and
duty. May 28th, I was sent away with an officer, and a party
of twenty-five men, to cut stuff to make brooms. It was early
in the morning when we left the ship, and fortunately had
taken two days provisions ; the morning was beautiful, we
proceeded almost to the top of the immense bason, about a
mile and a half from the Indian villages ; all hands landed,
and took the necessary utensils for cooking dinner ; while I
attended the party at work, the officer went to a neighbouring
pond to fish for trout. About one o'clock, all assembled to
dinner, but long before it was over, the sky became overcast,
wind veered to S. S. W., and one of those quick changes of
weather, so common at that time of the year came on, which soon
brought with it a regular gale. The launch's anchor came
home, she drifted on shore, and perched herself on the rocks,
332
without damaging herself at all. Torrents of rain fell, and it
blew so very hard, that had the boat been afloat, we had no
hope of getting her down to the ship ; to sit down under a
tree was but poor shelter, it became necessary to look for belter
quarters for the night. I proposed to tjie officer to bury our-
selves in the very thickest of the wood, take the sails, and
with them, make a tent, light a good fire, and thus rest for
the night. The officer agreed to my proposal ; having secured
the launch to a tree, in the event of her floating, we took her
main-sail and jibs, and went into a thick grove of firs and
birch trees, lashed a spar between two trees, cleared away the
brushwood, and stretched the main-sail taut across the spar ;
securing the lower part well down to the ground, one of the
jibs at each end ; it was then quite secure from rain. From
the fir trees round us, we cut a great quantity of the flat
boughs, these we laid at the bottom of the tent, thus making
a sort of bed. Birch, wet or dry, burns bright ; we soon lit a
good fire not far from the tent, got the kettle on, had supper,
dried our clothes, and although the wind blew and the rain
fell, it was unheeded ; we slept (at least I did) sound. Now
possibly the reader may think this description of the night
needless ; to many it may be so, but it may fall into the hands
of some, who, situated as we were, and unused to act, might
neglect to make the efforts necessary to insure comfort 5 injur-
ing health, and possibly life, by sitting moping in the wet and
cold all night, when, by a little exertion, they might obtain a
comparatively comfortable lodging, and a good night's sleep.
The tent was not very large ; twenty-six of us rested in it ;
there was no choice of place, and no room to spare. I did
not awake till the sun was high above the horizon ; it still blew
a gale, but the rain had ceased, and the boat was afloat.
Towards noon it became moderate ; the wind favouring us, we
loaded the boat, and at six in the evening we lashed her along-
side the Dock-yard.
Sunday, June 4th, after a heavy fall of rain, one of the
333
most awful storms of thunder and lightning that had been
known for many years, came on about three o'clock. In the
ship every precaution was taken to prevent danger, all the iron
work was covered over, also the guns and pumps. A few
minutes past three, just after a heavy clap of thunder, which
shook the ship, the electric fluid fell into the middle of a plot
of ground belonging to the naval hospital, on one side of which
were three houses inhabited, one by our Captain, the others
by persons belonging to the victualling department ; on the
other side was the rum and bread store. The ball separated,
and each part took opposite directions ; one passing close over
the Captain's house, the other struck the rum and bread
store, and completely severed the end of the building, cutting
it to the ground. A large column of smoke issuing from the
orifice led us to suppose the store would soon be in a blaze ;
the fire bell tolled its alarming peals, and in a few minutes the
Dock-yard engines were on the spot manned by our men, and
those of the Dock-yard, that could be hastily called in ; the
doors were broken open, but the smoke prevented any one
from approaching. The engines continued playing above
half an hour, by which time the smoke somewhat cleared away,
and a few of us ventured into the building ; but even then it
was difficult to breathe, and for some moments I feared that we
should have to retreat. The voice of Capt. D was heard
close behind, and as some of our officers advanced, (of course
going back was out of the question) on examining the
puncheons of rum, it was found that the fire had entirely con-
sumed the chimes of one of them : the rest were untouched.
There were at the time several thousand gallons of rum, and
if one had caught fire, nothing could have saved the rest.
The house was covered with canvas and secured for the time
being, and we had the pleasure of hearing that the Comman-
der-in-chief highly approved of our conduct. Repeated ex-
posure to the wet the last week, and over exertion this day,
so powerfully affected my health, that on my way to the boat
334
I fell senseless on the ground ; some of the men assisted me
up, and Capt D , who came by just at the time ordered
me to be taken on board in his own gig ; and by his kindness
I was most probably saved from a heavy fit of sickness ; as it
was, I remained in the Surgeon's list several days, before I could
resume duty,
At the latter end of June, a court martial was assembled, to
try one of our petty officers for an alleged robbery ; and after
a most patient investigation of two days, during which sixteen
witnesses spoke in favour of the prisoner ; he was fully ac-
quitted. Having been acquainted with the young man,
knowing him to be a member of a respectable family, when
the verdict of acquittal was pronounced, I felt a relief I can
scarcely describe; but what must have been his feelings, confined
for nearly two months in the deep recesses of a line of battle
ship's cockpit, subject to suspicion, which, from circumstances,
almost amounted to certainty of guilt ? Suffering under men-
tal, as well as bodily trouble, on the charge of a man, who was
ultimately proved to have sworn false. Few courts have
created more interest : sincerely as I respected the prisoner
before, my interest was heightened by the noble and manly
manner in which he bore his sufferings. When the trial was
nearly ended, and he was called upon for former character, the
first 'who was appealed to, was his prosecutor ; the Captain
of the ship and most of the officers spoke for him, and when
the minutes of the court martial were read over, and the
Judge Advocate, after a moment's pause, brought out, ee fully
acquitted" a slight glow flushed his cheek ; those two words
restored him to freedom, and to good name. He has since
been restored to his former rank in the service, and highly
respected in his station.
About the middle of July, our relief hove in sight, and the
same day took in the moorings. 18th, slipped the moorings
ourselves, and at 4, P.M., left Cape Sambro behind us,
homeward bound. The weather was rough, the wind fair, and
335
after a wonderful run of thirteen days and seven hours, on
the 2nd August, we let go the anchor close to the Royal
George buoy. Again I was blessed with a sight of my family,
and in that one moment, cares, troubles and sorrows, all
vanished. August th 31st, the ship was paid, and recom-
missioned for another flag on the 1st of September. Although
the ship was paid off, I was not clear of the service, having
only been lent to her from the E ; myself, and nine more
petty officers and seamen remained on her books. At the
latter end of November we were all sent to the E. to renew
our studies in gunnery, and that circumstance, light as it
may seem, paved the way to my better fortune. By par-
ticular favor I was permitted to leave the M , and return
to my former ship. To say that I disliked the M , would
be wrong, for I had (and so might any man who chose to
do his duty) been extremely comfortable, and even at the
commencement of the second station, all bid fair for going
on well ; but the moment a prospect of my return to my
former ship burst on my sight, it filled me with pleasure.
Captain D also, from whom I had experienced the
kindest treatment, strengthened his recommendation with a
certificate of good conduct, such as is seldom met with.
Hopes, long cherished, of obtaining promotion in the service
revived, and my prospects brightened. Time passed on in
pleasing anticipation of future comfort, until the 6th March,
when in the morning, as the ship's company were at divisional
muster, I was ordered to stand out, and the Captain in a
manner most kind, presented me with my promotion. I at-
tempted to return thanks, but for worlds I could not have
spoken ; the promotion itself was beyond measure valuable,
because it placed me above want, and in a way of bringing
up my family in respectability and comfort; but it was
doubly so by being appointed to the very ship, which of all
others I should have chosen. Sometime after I saw the Captain
and wished to thank him, but even then it was beyond the
336
power of words to tell the debt I owed, and the gratitude I
felt; and surely if there is on this earth one pleasure more
sweet than another, it must be when a person confers a benefit
on a whole family at once. Since that day, ever memorable
to me, time passes beyond description ofrmfortably ; and in the
enjoyment of my little cabin, I look back on the days that
are past, and scenes gone by, and in all plainly seethe hand
of an over ruling providence.
I have now brought these pages to a close, and many of my
readers may perhaps question the propriety of the remarks \
have presumed to make on the conduct of my superiors, as
well as the expediency of exhibiting to the world, the thoughts
and feelings of such, an humble individual as myself. To such
I would say, that I have had a two-fold purpose in view. My
first and main object has been to prove to my brother seamen,
that much, nay every thing, depends on their own good con-
duct, sobriety, and attention to orders : and that every man
may, if he conduct himself properly, confidently look forward
to something better than mere pauper's allowance when sick-
ness and old age shall have made him unfit for active exertion.
My second object has been to exhibit the character of the
British Sailor, in a favorable light, to those whom his Sovereign
has placed in authority over him, and invested with a more
than kingly power; to assure them, that the plain blue jacket
of the seaman often covers a heart, largely endowed with the
best and warmest affections of our nature, and one that
readily and gratefully responds to kindness and good treatment.
Well assured, that when these two points are allowed and
acted on, the naval service of our country will be carried on
in all its details, more effectively for the general good, and for
the comfort and happiness of those who are engaged in it.
'
W. Woodward, Printer.
V737