i ry- a •■.>•• •■^* ■. - aor apo* :*"-**■ uw. %% ^ -^VK^ftr iK-V>' -•■•■v..-. ■-■ttA.-:gte ROBERT ERNEST COWAN CAPTAIN IOHN HANCE, The well-known Guidi ol the Grand Canon oi the Colorado River. PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE Grand ganon of the Colorado River NEAR FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA AS SEEN THROUGH NEARLY TWO THOUSAND EYES, AND WRITTEN IN THE PRIVATE VISITORS' BOOK OF THE WORLD-FAMOUS GUIDE CAPT. JOHN HANCE GUIDE, STORY-TELLER, AND PATH-FINDER COLLECTED AND COMPILED BY G. K. WOODS Published for G. K. Woods, Flagstaff, Arizona Tf.rritorv by THE WHITAKER & RAY COMPANY SAN FRANCISCO 1899 Copyright, 1S99, by ('.. K. WOODS. . . • • . . . Cf u DEDICATION TO THE PATRONS OF THIS WORK / "T~ V HIS work is respectfully dedicated the many- writers who have enabled me to present to the world ideas of what this great masterpiece of nature looks like (by their gratuitous contributions of the impression made upon their minds after viewing this stupendous canon), and I sincerely hope that the many tourists, pleasure-seekers, and L_ students of nature who in the future visit this grand work of nature will bestow on those who have herein contributed to the enlightenment of the people at large full measure for their expressions. Respectfully yours, G. K. WOODS. 277290 I. Wll BUH TIIURBUK PREFACE. To the Patrons of this Volume: This is not a descriptive writing on the Grand Canon of the Colorado River, but a record of the impressions creat- ed upon the minds of individual visitors, at various times and under different circumstances, and written in the private visitors' book of Capt. John Hance, the famous Grand Canon guide. It covers a period of ten years, and partially describes the trip by stage from Flagstaff, Arizona, and return, under the man- agement of G. K. Woods, General Manager of the Grand Canon stage line, owned and operated by J. Wilbur Thurbur. G. K. WOODS. Flagstaff, A. T., March i, 1899. CONTENTS. Pack Flagstaff, Arizona J 5 To the Traveling Public '9 The Grand Canon of the Colorado River (by J. Curtis Wasson) 23 Notice to the Reader 2 9 Personal Impressions of the Grand Canon of the Colorado River 31 Poem: The Grand Canon of the Colorado (by C. R. Pattee) 129 The Stalactite Caves of the Grand Canon (by J. Curtis Wasson) 133 "The World Is Cleft" — (" Fitz-Mac" on the Wonders of the Grand Canon) . 137 The Grand Canon Cavern T 49 An Enthusiastic Description (by G. Wharton James) 155 The Grand Canon l6: How to Get There l6 3 ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece (Capt. John I lance) page J. Wilbur Thurbur 6 Flagstaff, Arizona 14 G. K. Woods 18 Colorado River — Foot of Grand View Trail 22 Grandeur Ridge — on the Grand View Trail 28 San Francisco Mountains 35 Cottonwood Caiion 4 1 Horseshoe Point — Grand View Trail 47 Mode of Travel in the Grand Canon 53 Scene on the Grand View Trail 58 Colorado River — Looking up from Grand View Trail 67 Water Train — Grand View Trail 75 A Resting-Place — Head of Grand View Trail 83 A Commodious Tent — Grand Canon 9 1 Chimney Rock — Grand Caiion 99 Scene from Hotel Point — Grand Caiion 107 Waterfall — Grand Caiion 115 Original Hance Cabin, 1885 123 Head of Cottonwood Caiion — Grand View Trail 12S Scene in the Stalactite Caves 13 2 Hance Falls — Grand Caiion 136 Coconino Cycle Club 14 1 Hotel and Tents — Grand Canon 148 Going to the Grand Canon 154 Scene on the Hance Trail 160 Grand Caiion Stages at Flagstaff 162 OS w > X o a < Oj O o L> W X E-» u» o 2; o < a < 03 o w S H O H > w H ril //, 1893. J. A. OBER AND WIFE, Milford, N. H. GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVER. 65 April 18, 1893. T0MM1E ASHURST, Flagstaff, Arizona. April 18, 1893. Miss CHRISMAN, Flagstaff, A. T. April 20, 1893. Miss L. BALLAD, Portland, Maine. April 20, 1893. Miss IRENE HUNT, Newport, R. 1. JNO. M. CLARK, Flagstaff, Arizona. Arrived the 18th; left the 21st of April, iS 9 3- April, 1893. Mr. and Mrs. WOLSELEY, British Guiana. April, 1893. H. H. RAQAN, Syracuse, N. Y. April, 1893. M. Q. HEINEY, Jacksonville, III. April, 1893. J. S. HYDE, Titusville, Pa. May 10, 1893. April, 7893. J ' W ' A * N0TT ' Dr. and Mrs. HERBERT L. BUR= BeV6r,ey ' ^^^ RELL, Arrived May 15th; descended into the Boston, Mass. canon this day. April, 1893. PAUL C. OSCANYAN, New York City. JAMES I. MANSON, Hoqui, Ariz. April, 1893. J. T. HERNDON, Franklin, Ky. 66 PKRSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE May i j, 1893. B. W. CLOWD, Woodbury, N. J. Arrived May 16th; descended partway into canon; met Mr. John Hance and Mr. Arnott returning. Ascended with them, and had a pleasant conversation for an hour in Mr. Hance's cottage. Exchanged a five dollar gold piece for an English sovereign at a point where man never before passed money. May, 1893. H. H. WATKINS, May, 1893. L. WATKINS, Philadelphia. Chicago. WM. VERNON BOOTH, Chicago, 111. WILL1AH B. DOWD, New York. May 18, 1893. MARSHALL H. HALLORY, ROLLAND HALLORY, New York. May 20, 1893. J. W. DOUBLEDAY, Jamestown, New York. May 20, 1893. C. WALLIS, Edgbasten, England. May 20, 1893. C. WALLIS. Having visited the principal points of interest in Europe, as well as in America, I would say that I have seen nothing like the Grand Canon of the Colorado for grandeur and for its unique views. May 20, 1893. J. W. DOUBLEDAY. Having gone down the canon to the winter cabin of Mr. Hance, I must say that the canon changes to the view at every few hundred feet, and the small hillocks that open from the rim change to mountains as you go down. May 21, 1893. HUGO LANQEWITZ RIGA, Russland, Russia. June 2, 1893. HENRY T. FINCK AND WIFE. Doubtless the most unique sight in the world, and the greatest possible surprise is to walk up from these tents to the edge of the canon to realize the full depth of the canon. The visitor should look at it from the rim on the point just this side of Point Bissell. The morning light is best from that position, while from the station the best hours are 4 to 7 P - M - < OJ W > Q Z < OS O W > Q Z < O o < si w < > GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVER. 77 October 4, 1893. CHAS. W. K. LEOSER, New York. October 4, 1893. BYRAN E. WOODCOCK, Pennsylvania. October 4, iSgJ. CHAS. B. HcCOY, Needles, Cal. October 10, iSgj. J. EDWARD BLAVEL, Alameda, Cal. The World's Fair at Chicago is the greatest wonder of the age. The Grand Canon of the Colorado the greatest won- der of all ages. October 10, i8gj. R. W. SCHOPPER, Zerlenroda, Russia. October 10, iSpj. JOHN COLSHURN, Langenberg. October 26, iSgj. L. de BUYGENON, Liege, Belgique. After having visited the Yellowstone Park, seen Oregon State and Washington State, Cascade Range, Mt. Tacoma, Mt. Bather, Mt. Shasta, and Sierra Nevada Mountains, California, and the lovely Yosemite Valley, I declare I did not see in America a scenery more or as strik- ingly wonderful and impressive and sub- lime as the Grand Canon of the Colorado. In Europe, I do not remember I have ever seen anything by which I have been as impressed except, perhaps, by the splendid White Mount at Chamoise, when I saw it for the first time fifteen years ago. October 31, 1893. L. H. TOLFREE, Mrs. L. H. TOLFREE, EDITH M. TOLFREE, GERTRUDE TOLFREE, All of Flagstaff, Ariz. Departed from canon October 31, 1893. November 25, 1893. Left New York City, November 15th, en route to California, but my suspicion of the grandeur of the country compelled me to stop off at Flagstaff. The time of the year for a trip to the canon was any- thing but safe, considering the lateness of the year, cold weather, and idea of being snowed in, but, nevertheless, our trip was without events of any mention until the night of our arrival at Captain John Hance's, when a terrific snow-storm set in. It lasted until morning. The wind at the present time is blowing a gale, and how we will find it on our return is a question. Must trust to Providence for a safe return. The kind hospitality shown us by Captain John Hance will never be 78 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE forgotten. During this writing we are all sitting around the fire. To compare the grandeur of this canon is beyond my power. I can hardly believe my eyes, and must say every one that goes sight- seeing should never forget the Grand Canon of the Colorado. Sincerely yours, E. T. PAHMENBERG, New York. Close of visiting record for year 1893. April j, i8 9 4. WM. C. WILKINSON, Prof, of Poetry. University, Chicago. April 6, 1894. THOS. BOYNTON, F. S. A. Bridlington Quay, England. Indescribably grand. April 8, /S94. L. B. HICKOK, Troy Grove, La Salle Co., III. Words will not describe the Grand Canon. AprilS, 1894. GEO. W. HANCE, Yavapai County, Ariz. April 24, 1894. HERBERT B. TURNER, Mrs. HERBERT B. TURNER, ANNE TRACY TURNER, HARY BEACH TURNER, April 24, 1894. ROSALIE DELAFIELD FLOYD, 22 Williams St., New York City. April 24, 1894. WALTER H. CRITTENDEN, New York City. D. 0. WICKHAM AND WIFE, No. I Broadway, New York. April 26, 1S94. HERBERT M. TOLFREE, Buffalo, N. Y. . Ipril 26, 1894. A. G. HUBBARD AND WIFE, Redlands, Cal. Left May 5, 1894. May 2, 1894. Mrs. EDnON WRIGHT, Miss BESSIE WRIGHT, JOHN CASTLE WRIGHT. GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVKR. 79 May 2, 1894. GEO. D. B. DARBY, Philadelphia, Penn. May 5, 1894. WILLIAM G. DeWITT, New York City. One of the greatest wonders of the canon is thecliff called "Hance's Leap," not generally known. The mountain-sheep got away and crossed the Colorado. Un- cle John will give all details, as he is the sole survivor in these parts. May 7, 1894. Miss GERTIE KETCHUM. May 7, 1894. ROBERT CURTIS. May 7, 1894. EUGENE A. SLIKER. May 11, 1894. JOHN H. TRENT, Brooklyn, New York. May 11, 1894. Dr. ELBERT WING, Chicago. May 11, 1S94. FRANK H. SCOTT, BERTRAM SCOTT, Chicago. May 11, 1894. Miss ELIZA V. RUMSEY, Chicago. May ii, 1894. Miss MARY D. STURGES, Miss ROSALIE STURGES, GEO. STURGES, Chicago. May 11, 1894. W. F. DUMMER, Mrs. W. F. DUMMER, Chicago. May 11, 1894. F. H. LUNGREEN, Cincinnati. May 11, 1 8 94. JOHN H. HICKS, Flagstaff, Arizona. May 11, 1894. GERTIE KETCHUH, Flagstaff, Arizona. So PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE May ii, 1894. F. C. REID, Flagstaff, Arizona. May II, 1894. STANTON CURTIS, Flagstaff, Arizona. May 11, 1 8 94. Hiss BLANCH METZ, Cincinnati. May 11, 1894. Miss VERKAMP, Cincinnati. May 11, 1894. WM. BABBITT, Flagstaff, Arizona. May 11, 1894. N. A. CAHERON, Flagstaff, Arizona. May 11, 1894. JOHN TOLER, Flagstaff, Arizona. May 11, 1894. WALLACE FORD, Flagstaff, Arizona. May 11, 1894. FRANK KETCHUil, Flagstaff, Arizona. May 11, 1894. E. A. SLIKER, Flagstaff, Arizona. May 12, 1894. Mrs. W. H. STEVENS, MARY n. STEVENS, Both of Detroit. Mich. May 12, 18Q4. PERCIVAL HENDERSON, EI Paso, Texas. May 12, 1894. JAMES SUYDAM, LAMBERT SUYDAM, JED. FRYE, All of New York City. May, 1894. CHAS. W. PALMIE. May, 1894. HEINRICH VOGEL, Dresden, Oermany. c;kand canon ok the Colorado river. 81 June i, 1894. Mrs. SUMNER BABCOCK, SUHNER BABCOCK. Arrived June 1st at Moran's Point; Sunset, June 2d; June 3d, down the Grand Canon to the river, by the way of Red Canon and Lauras Gorge. Time from river to rim, three and a half hours. No language can describe the grandeur of the trip. June 5th, en route to the Yo- semite Valley and Yellowstone Park. June 4, 1894. SAM HUBBARD, Jr., San Francisco, Cal. Where Alph, the sacred river, ran through caverns measureless to man, Down to a sunless sea, Take the wild imagination of Coleridge, Take the wonderful masterpieces of Dore, Yet, neither poet nor painter has ever con- ceived this sublime reality. June 20, 1894.. C. L. BINQHAM, Chicago, 111. June 23, 1894. J. M. CONNELL, Mrs. J. M. CONNELL, Master RAYMOND CONNELL, FRANCIS CONNELL, Chicago. June 23, 1894. Hiss EDITH LOCKELT, Chicago. June 2 j, 1894. E. WELLS KILOUG, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. June 23, 1S94. W. H. PICKERING, Cambridge, Mass. June 23, 1894. A. E. DOUGLASS, Cambridge, Mass. June 23, 1894. CHAS. G. SLACK, Marietta, Ohio. July 18, 1894. B. C. HOCK, Flagstaff, Arizona. July 18, 1894. GEO. H. SICREST, Phoenix, A. T. 82 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE July 18, 1894. BERRY J. BOSTWICK, Phoenix, A. T. July iS, 1894. J. H. POLITZER, Phoenix, A. T. July 18, 1S94. J. S. BURTON, Phoenix, A. T. July 18, 1894. J. T. SPANGLER, Phoenix, A. T. August 9, 1894. P. B. McCABE, Phoenix, A. T. Words are inadequate to describe the sublimity of a sunset view of the Grand Canon of the Colorado, and should be counted among the Seven Wonders of the world. September 9, 1894. J. DOYLE. New York. September 9, J 8 94 C. S. SARGENT, September 9, 1S94. J. W. TOURMEY, Tucson, A. T. Brooklyn, N. Y. September 15, 1894. Mr. and Mrs. D. R. GOUCHER, Carthage, Ho. September 21, 1894. Mrs. E. H. CHASE, New York City, N. Y. September 21, 1894. Dr. A. I. BOUFFLEUR, Miss GRACE F. BOUFFLEUR, Chicago. September 21, 1894. C. H. FANCHER, Land Agt. A. 1\ R. R. HATTIE W. FANCHER, GRACE FANCHER, WARD FANCHER, Albuq , N. M. We all went down the new trail on September 21st to the river, starting about S a.m., and returned about 7 p.m., riding horseback nearly all the way. September 28, 1894. B. N. FREEMAN, Mrs. B. N. FREEMAN, Miss HELEN FREEMAN, Denver, Colorado. w Q < o o w u o H if) W GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVKR. 8 5 September 28, 1894. W. 0. COLE, Miss BLANCH E. COLE, Chicago, III. September 28, 1894. fliss FORD, Boston, Mass. October 7, 1894. S. F. J1EQUIRE, Mrs. S. F. flEGUIRE, ALVIE ilEGUIRE, Little FRANKIE MEQUIRE, WH. Q. BAILEY, niss LEOTIA STONE, Jerome, Ariz. Visited Grand Canon via Hance's new trail. November 8, 1894. D. T. BRAINARD, First Lieut. 2d Cavalry, U. S. Army. November 12, 1894. D. K. FITZHUQH, Special Examiner Pension Bureau, Washington, D. C. To Grand Canon and back this day, on foot, and I will never forget it. Went to river, via Hance's New Trail. The grand- est sight in the world. November 16, 1S94. J. H. STEVENSON. My only regret is that John Hance and I can't make a longer stop at the boss ditch of the world. March 19, 1893. R. K. WILLIS, Lewis Centre, Delaware Co., Ohio. I wish to say that I have seen a good deal of this great and beautiful land of ours, and calling on the great God that made all these beautiful sights, I wish to say that right here on the ranch owned by John Hance is the greatest sight in the world, and I want all my friends on earth to come and enjoy the sights and his open heart and hospitality. March 19, 1893. NEWTON CHALKER, Akron, Ohio. I have spent two days very pleasantly visiting the Grand Canon of the Colorado, and enjoying the accommodations at the inn of John Hance, and enjoyed both hugely. April 18, 189s. JAS. N. BETHUNE, Los Angeles. S6 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE April 18, 1S95. HUGH J. LEE, E. P. T0B1E, Jr., Pawtucket, R. I. We, Us and Company went from Hance's cabin to the river and returned in four and a quarter hours. April 27, 1895. H. P. SPENCER, Denver, Colo. Simply indescribable. April 27, 1S95. C. 0. HALL, Conway, Iowa. Editor Journal. After a two days' visit to the Grand Canon of the Colorado is all that it is represented to be, and more, too. No language can fully describe, no artist paint the beauty, grandeur, immensity and sublimity of this most wonderful pro- duction of Nature's great architect. It must be seen to be appreciated. April jo, 1895. W. WEST DURANT, New York. It is presumption to attempt to express in mere words the impression made upon one by the Grand Canon of the Colorado, even after viewing it more than once. It must be seen to be understood and even in part appreciated. April JO, 1895. L. N. STOTT, Stottville, N. M. The only part of the canon I feel I have seen is Mr. Hance's trail. Any one who does not take the trip down into the canon misses the grandest part of that little part, which you can see in three days' time. May 7, 1805. TILLIE VERKAMP. May 7, 1893. CLARA WESSEL. May 7, 1895. I. H. W. Drink Condit and Mercur's Orange Cider. May 20, 1S95 . CLARENCE M. SMITH, 54 Wall St., N. Y. The Grand Cafion is simply sublime. A trip should be made down Captain Hance's trail to the river, but the traveler must keep his helm hard-a-port. My personal experience in a jaunt to the river and returning in one day, bids me quote Virgil's description of a visit to Hades, of which he says: Facilis Avertio descensus est ; Sed reddere. (That 's the rub.) GRAND CANON OF THE COLORAIJO KIVER. 87 May 31, 1895. Miss WHITLOCK, Mrs. WHITLOCK. You may talk of this and that point and view, but give us the Hance Point, with shifting clouds and sun playing at hide- and-seek over Santa F6 Temple. Grand Ca?ion, June 5, 1895. Mrs. MARY E. HART, M. D., Los Angeles. There is a certain malady, commonly termed "big head," with which a large number of otherwise healthy people are afflicted. Prescription: Stand upon the brink of the Grand Canon, gaze down, and still further down, into its awful depths, and realize for the first time your own utter insignificance. June 9, 18Q5. W. B. THOMAS, Los Angeles. I have seen what is without doubt the grandest natural wonder in the world, the Grand Canon of the Colorado, and I have also seen enough to convince me that no man or woman should attempt to make the trip to the river a-foot. If you can't go on a horse, don't go. June 9, 1S95. T. S. VAN DYKE, Los Angeles, Cal. All it is said to be, and the trail one of the safest I have ever seen. June it, 1895. J. H. TOLFREE, If the mountains of the earth were leveled off and dumped into the Grand Canon of the Colorado at this point, there would not be a trail wide enough for a thoroughbred Indian to cross upon. June 12, 1895. TESSA L. KELSO, A better thing than writing in John Hance's book is riding down John Hance's trail to the river. June 14, 1895. RUE H. HARDENBERG, Magnificent, and much else also in addition besides. June 14, 1893. ALFRED P. GRIFFITH, Azusa, Cal. The grandest sight of my life, and far above possible anticipation, but Captain Hance's double-breasted tea can't be surpassed. June 14, 1893 . EFFIE B. GRIFFITH, Rushville, III. My first horseback ride or any stage. I took the canon trip on Captain Hance's horse Dick, and am alive to tell the tale. I can never forget what I have seen. ss PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE Grand Canon, June 16, i8g§. HARRY T. CORY, C. E., Columbia, Mo. Yesterday I went with Captain Hance to the river. It certainly was the ex- perience of my life. One really has never seen the canon until he has gone down the trail to the river. After that trip he will certainly agree with me that the canon is the most awful, horrible thing ever conceived of, and for heaven's sake don't go alone nor walk. To save money by walking, or going alone, is the worst way of saving money I can con- ceive of. If you do save money (falsely, so called,) just read this when you get back, and remember that I told you so. July 17, 1895. JOHN W. SEARGEAINT, Mrs. W. F. SEARGEANT AND CHILDREN, Marshall, Ho. July 25, 1895. ED. B. CULLINAM, 372 W. Seventh, St. Cincinnati, 0. EZRA J. WARNER, Jr., Chicago, 111. JOSEPH E. Z. HUNT, Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands. JOHN HUNTER STEARNS, Chicago, III. July. 29, 1895. H. H. PRUGH, CARRIE M. PRUGH, Dayton, Ohio. This is our fourth day here. Have been down the new trail with John Hance, and made various excursions along the rim. We feel that we have only commenced to realize the unspeak- able sublimity of the canon, and hope to come again when the railroad is built from Flagstaff. July 31, 1895. ALDACE F. WALKER, KATHARINE WALKER, S. F. GILBERT, ROBERT WALKER, HAROLD WALKER, All of Chicago. August 7, 1895. L. W. JOHNSON, GEO. BURGESS, W. E. GRAVES, CHAS. BURKHART, G. A. ilcCLAFLIN, R. S. McCLAFLIN, J. G. AXLING, Mrs. R. S. McCLAFLIN, firs. GEO. IRWIN, Miss ORA RUFFCORN, GRAND CANON OK THE COLORADO KIVER. 89 Miss ANNIE STUMP, Miss LYDIA MORRIS, Miss MAGGIE TYNAN, Winslow, A. T. August /, 1895 . CHAS E. BURKHART. Cooked for the Winslow party. Grand Cation, August ip, 1895. G. A. NEEFF. We have enjoyed everything, — the faces, the characters, the meals, this book; last, but not least, ah! the canon. We have seen its faces,— oh, so varied, somber, smiling, meditatingly, growling, ecstatic. To have seen the faces of the mountains and the depths is to have studied the thousand characters, and yet but to catch an inkling of its true worth. It is a book, this canon is, to the poetic soul, and with such convivial spirit about these venerable trees and kind, smiling faces at the camp, it is one of the most restful places imaginable. The canon itself is a picture of eternal rest. May the time soon come when many will enjoy the beauties of these God-given festivities. August 21 ', 1895. CHAS. A. BALEY, Oakland, Cal. WM. C. VAUGHAN, Chicago, 111. We made this day the ascent of Ayer's Peak. A flag was placed on the northern peak, one on the southern, and a monu- ment reared on the middle one. Ayer '^ Peak occupies a central position in the Grand Canon, from which are revealed such a touch of immensity and grandeur as to produce an indellible impression. August 22, 1895. CAROLINE HADLEY (Aged nine years). We have been to Moran Point, and we would like to go to the river, but I do not think we can. I think it is very, very deep, and grand, and that it must have taken ;i very long time to make it. I would like to stay here forever, it is so beautiful. Grand Canon, August 25, 1893. C. H. COBLE, L. L. FERRAL, T. B. BELL, F. D. MYERS, J. M. AITKEN. Bicycle party. Bell, Myers and Aitken made the trip over the Hance trail on foot. Time, from head of trail to river, two hours and twenty-five minutes; rested two hours, and made the head of the trail in four hours and fifteen minutes. August jo, 1893. I. T. WHITTEnORE, Florence, Arizona. The longings of my heart have been gratified. My anticipations and expecta- tions more than realized. I look in won- oo PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE der, love, and admiration at this mightiest of God's created works, but never have I felt so small, and God so great, as while standing, awe-struck and overwhelmed, as in gazing on this, the greatest of all earthly wonders. I cannot leave, how- ever, without leaving my testimony of respect for the man who made the trail, and made it possible for all sight-seers to see the canon from crest to base. All honor to friend John Hance. Grand Canon, August 31, 1895. EDITH MANSFIELD. Doubtless, God might have made some- thing more wonderful or more magnifi- cent, but, doubtless, he never did. Amer- ica for Americans. I am glad to add my meed, respect, and admiration for the enterprise and determination which made the trail possible. August 31, 1895. MARIAN SCOTT FRANKLIN. A vision of what God has prepared for us in the New Jerusalem. August 3/, 1895. HOWARD MARINE, Flagstaff, Arizona. Views from Moran's and Bissell's Points are the finest you will see, and go down the trail, and you will know the depth of the canon by experience. A?tg?tst jf, 1895. Miss HAYBEL MYERS, Phoenix, Arizona. August 31, 1895. Miss HARY SMITH, Phoenix, A. T. August 31, 1895. JOHN Y. T. SMITH. Phoenix, Arizona. To Mr. John Hance: — My Old Friend: I am delighted to meet you on the rim of the Grand Canon of the Colorado River, after a score or more of years since our last meeting. August 31, 1895. Miss WINIFRED SMITH, Phoenix, A. T. August 31, 1895. EDWIN E. CARROLL, Lawrence, Kan. September 19, 1895. R. F. GOBLE, B. D. GOBLE, O. K. CUSHING. The canon is here to show for itself, and Captain Hance will show it to you. A COMMODIOUS TENT, GRAND CANON. INTERIOR OF SAME. GRAND CANON OK THE COLORADO RIVhk. 93 September, 19, 1895. Dr. ARTHUR KORN, Munich, Germany. September 20, 1895. Mrs. J. M. AITKIN, J. A. EVERTS, Q. A. DUTCHER, E. W. DUTCHER, M. D. All of Whipple Barracks, Arizona. Beautiful Grand Canon. September 20, 1895. HUGO FROMHOLZ, Berlin, Germany. Visited the canon, went only half way down the trail, but was fully satisfied of that. Point Moran pleased me best. September 25, 1895. W. E. PEDRICK, Denver, Colo. On the trail to the river, about half an hour's march from a point opposite Point Moran to the right of the trail among cedars, and about one hundred yards distant from the trail, rises a projecting rock, upon whose side I noticed to-day what appeared from the trail upon the face of the rock to be some kind of rep- tile, coiled in circles, over a space about four feet long. I had no time to visit it to-day, and hope some geological stu- dent will make a close examination, and hope a classification may be arrived at. September 26, 1895. Dr. G. SOHWATHE, Germany. September 2j, 1895 '. WM. MARTIA AIKEN, Supervising Architect, Treasury Department, Washington, D. C. October 1, 1895. FRED J. MADDEN, Clinton, Iowa. EDITH M. TOLFREE, GERTRUDE TOLFREE, Flagstaff, Arizona. PORTER FLEMING, Phoenix, A. T. CHAS. S. FLEMillNG, Stanford University. Grand Canon survey party. We all expect to see the Grand Canon from the windows of a palace-car next year. "Dude," the jack-rabbit police- dog, kept us in game. October 1, 1895. WILL B. HUNTER, Chicago. Wonderful canon, Child of the seas, No man knows thy history, None can solve thy mystery; God-given glimpse of eternity To weak humanity. 94 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE October 7, 1S95. Dr. P. G. CORNISH, Flagstaff, Arizona. F. H. NEWHAN, W. B. HUNTER, W. F. TALIAFERRO, Albuquerque, N. M. E. A. SLIKER, Flagstaff, Arizona. Captain C. E. HOWARD Cycling party. October 7, 1895. The Arizona Mission Conference of the M. E. Church, by arrangements of Rev. B. M. Danforth, Pastor of the M. E. Church at Flagstaff, visited the Grand Canon. All agreed that the trip was the event of a lifetime. The party was com- posed of the following persons: — Bishop HENRY W. WARREN, Denver, Colo. G. F. BOVARD, Supt. Arizona Mission. Los Angeles, Cal. C. J. CHASE AND WIFE, Pastor at Phoenix, A. T. Q. F. PIERENAUD, Pastor at Prescott, A. T. ED. DEARBORN AND WIFE, Pastor at Alhambra, A. T. DAVID ROBERTS, Pastor Tombstone, A. T. B M. DANFORTH, Pastor Flagstaff, A. T. Mrs. HUNT, Glendale, Arizona. The flisses AMY and DAISY DAN= FORTH, WILL DANFORTH, Family of the pastor at Flagstaff. We all agree that the Grand Canon is the greatest thing on earth of its kind, and heartily endorse the entire manage- ment, including the Grand Canon Stage Company, the hotel management, and will not soon forget our guide, Captain John Hance. Friday, October 25, 1895. CHAS. P. BOND, Boston, Mass., and Waltham, Mass. A single day has given me only a glimpse of this marvelous creation of Nature. That glimpse has, however, been a revelation to me. I have seen all the wonders of the New World that com- mand the admiration of man, but I regard this Grand Canon of the Colorado River as the grandest of them all. One of God's masterpieces, — its grandeur, its marvel- ous groupings of Nature's pinnacles, and its vast extent, — is beyond the grasp of human intellect to comprehend, and be- yond the power of human language to accurately picture. No pen or pencil can portray its awful grandeur. It is a kaleido- scope ©f Nature's greatest beauties, fur- nishing new surprises and new wonders from every point of view. It well de- serves a place in the galaxy of the great wonders of the world; climate, country, people, and surroundings, all combine, to make this Grand Canon of the Colo- rado River one of the ideal spots on the American Continent. A place where one must always love to come, and from GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVER. 95 which he goes with much reluctance. It is a place where man must feel, if he never felt it before, the existence of a Creator, in whose presence he is as nothing, and whose ways are past understanding. Beginning of the season, April 1896. April /J, 1896. E. A. SLIKER, C. H. COBLE, Flagstaff, Arizona. The Coconino Cycling Club. The first cyclers of the season. We all expect to see the canon from the seat of a flat or hand-car next year. Lovingly yours, E. A. SLIKER. April 23, 1S96. Mr. and rirs. W. D. ELLIS, New York City, N. Y, April 29, 1896. HARRY FIRVE, Albuquerque, N. H. I have been here two days, and never had so much fun since I had the measles. May 12, 1896. J. M. CASSIN, Santa Rosa, Cal. If to see the Grand Canon for a day or two is so great a pleasure, what must it be to view it daily for years ? John Hance alone can tell. May 12, 1896. ARTHUR l. SHOLL, General Office, P. R. R., Philadelphia, Pa. I made the trip over the new trail be- tween the hours of 8 a.m. and 5 P.M., spending an hour at the river. The most magnificent walk of my life; but I wish to say to others who may wish to walk, take our respected friend's advice, — a word to the wise is sufficient. May 12, 1896. Dr. S. A. KNOPF. To Mr. Hance I wish a few gold- mines and many years of health and happiness besides. June 19, 1896. — 9 p.m. CHAS. WM. SIRCH, JTilwaukee, Wis. Left morning 23d of June 1896. impression 1. After the drive, a view, a Sight of the Canon grande\ Regrets of the wearisome drive To this corner of the land ;— The scene I admit is rugged, But should I seek the course, When around me are beautiful moun- tains, Already I feel remorse, qb PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE 'T is not half so big as I expected. Oh thoroughly I despise The travelers who exaggerate, Especially as to size. IMPRESSION II. A supper, well-served and hot, Quite cures a man of the blues, A sleep in a cool, sweet cot Full many regrets subdues. A breakfast, two burros, a guide, A descent from the canon's rim, I cared not to explore the canon, But just to be company to him, My friend, the Professor, from Kansas. Afoot I descend the trail. IMPRESSION III. At eight we are found well-started; At ten we did not fail To drink at the old stone cabin; At eleven the ladders descend; At twelve we have reached the river, Down at the canon's end. IMPRESSION IV. A rest and a plunge in the river, And experience in quicksand. We felt of the current in places, 'T would most take off one's hand; At three we prepared for the ascent; Scaled falls by ladders and ropes; I had walked seven miles to the river, But returning was most beyond hopes. impression v. I can solve most difficult problems Theorems obscure can pass, But I frankly acknowledge in high arts Is vastly superior the ass. impression VI. On I struggled, e'er seeking the higher; Anon I stopped in fright. An inch to the left, an inch to the right, And this page I 'd not indite. To appreciate, Oh traveler, This canon's awful height, You must ascend without burro, With your own strong brawn and might; For where theie is no unit of measure To calculate the size, To man the extent of the labor Will atone for the failure of eyes. IMPRESSION VII. " Carpe diem," and do not fail To visit Moran's view, For though quite weary grows the trail, The grandeur will ne'er be forgotten by you. IMPRESSION VIII. Beautiful was the trip we made Down Cameron's trail and through the caves. Impressions of stratas and stalagmites will cling to my memory, and more I crave. June jy, i8y6. J. CURTIS WASSOIN, A. B. Flagstaff, Arizona. Came to Grand Canon Hotel; got out of stage; walked over to rim of canon; looked out, and Oh!!! June 20th, went down Hance's trail to river, took a bath in river, and returned. June 21st, went to Moran's Point. June 22d, went down Cameron's trail; visited mines, and ex- plored three caves. Cha^m of the Creator, Handiwork of His hand, And of His works none greater Is found in all the land. GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVER. 97 Great, massive, awful abyss, Delving Pluto's artifice, To keep his realm obscure within, From upper worlds of wayward men. And to our host and hostess kind, And daughters fairest of mankind, Who added to our joy, We, friend Sirch and I Now say good-by, And hail our stage, ahoy! May heaven's pleasure, Without measure, E'er your way betide, That others coming, In the gloaming, May e'er in you confide. August 12, 1896. S. SOPHIA FRIEDLBY, Morristown, Pa. August 12 , 1896. ROBERT P. SHICK, Reading, Pa. August 12, i8y6. Wil. H. BEAN, First Lieut., Second Cavalry, U. S. A- August j 2, 1896. WM. STOWE DERVOL, University of Arizona, Tucson, Arizona. It is a chasm to afford a place wherein the soul may seek repose, and which may prompt the deepest emotions to great activity, and lift man above himself. August 12, i8g6. I1ARY C. STINSON, flcrristown, Pa. August 12, 1896. GERTRUDE HENDERSON, Montgomery, Pa. August 12, 1896. KATHARINE P. FRANCISCENS, Lewistown, Pa. September 3, 1896. Rev. ULYSSES Q. B. PIERCE, Pomona, Cal. September 3, 1896. Mrs. WM. F. LEWIS, Fart Apache, A. T. September 14, 1896. HELEN A. RIORDAN, Flagstaff, Arizona. 9 S PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE September 22, 1896. V. H. EDMUNDSON, M. D. Gallup, N. M. September 22, 1896. HARRIETTE F. CODWISE, Kingston, N. Y. September 22, 1896. Maj. and Mrs. W. M. WALLACE. September jo, 1896. I. W. RAND, First Lieut. Asst. Surgeon, U. S. A. Fort Apache, A. T. October 23, 1896. WM. AUGUST BARROIS, Lile, France. October 23, 1896. L. BERKER. October 30, 1896. KATHARINE ARMS, Mrs. CHAS. D. ARMS, CAROLYN WICK ARMS, Youngstown, Ohio. November 15, 1896. GEO. E. WHITE, MINNIE A. WHITE, Prescott, Arizona. November 13, 1896. N. 0. flURPHY, NELLIE MURPHY, Prescott, Arizona. November 28, 1896. HERHAN KOBBE, Good luck to Captain Hance on his prospecting tour, and may he strike a bonanza. November 28, 1896. MAGNUS C. MYER, Chicago, III. Many a land has seen my eyes, many a mountain crossed my foot, but never seen such wonderful creations as this, — the Grand Canon of the Colorado. Close of the visiting record for the year 1896. Monday, ^Ipril 19, 189J. The Opening of the Season. JAMES G. DUNCAN, Mt. Yernon, N. Y. Miss A. ENDICOTT, flartin, N. Y. CHIMNEY ROCK. GRAND CANON. GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVER. IOI J. ALEXANDER MOONE, M. D., Helena, Montana. We all visited Moran and Bissell's Point. A grand sight. April 24, 1897. RUDOLF FBACH, Barmen, Germany. April 26, 1897. P. C. BICKNELL, Phoenix, Arizona. May 1, 1897. fir. and Mrs. W. H. WOOL WORTH. Niagara Falls, N. Y. Visited Moran's Point, Bissell's Point, and walked part way down John Hance's trail. Language seems weak and inade- quate to the task of describing the gran- deur of the Grand Canon of the Colorado River. May 5, 1897. Rev. ULYSSES Q. B. PIERCE, First Unitarian Church. FLORENCE LONSBURY PIERCE, Pomona, Cal. Log Hotel dedicated August 6, 1896. May J, 1897. JAMES PRINGLE, Edinburgh, Scotland. Since leaving my native land of Scot- land I have traveled upwards of thirty thousand miles,— over three fourths of this globe, — but have nowhere seen so awe-inspiring a sight as the Grand Canon of the Colorado River, said to be une- qualed in the world. I believe no artist lias yet been born who can adequately portray it, nor any word-painter can do justice to so majestic a theme. It is, to my mind, a humbling sight, and the main lesson it teaches us is the littleness of man. What is man, that thou art mind- ful of him ? Mays, 1897. Miss JONES, E. A. JONES, Both of Brooklyn, N. Y. May 13, 1897. F. W. MORRIS, Jr., Philadelphia, Pa. May ij, 1897. GEO. S. GERHARD, M. D. Philadelphia, Pa. May 14, 1897. R. S. HAYES, ANN N. HAYES, Both of New York. The biggest thing on earth. 102 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE May ij, 1897. CORLEIA R. BEAN, BLANCH BEAN. Long live the canon. May its grandeur never grow less. ALDACE F. WALKER. A. T. & S. F. R. R. Endorsement guaranteed. May 14, 1897. HENRY J. CAMGAN, Brooklyn, N. Y. May 16, 1897. Mr. and Mrs. THOS. GOFFERY, Liverpool. Went down the canon, under the guid- ance of Captain John Hance, and would advise every one else to do likewise, as no proper conception of the canon can be gained from above. May 19, 1897. W. E. NELSON, Quincy, III. May 20, 1 8 97. ARTHUR DIXON, Illinois. May 21, 1897. r\rs. E. L. REYNOLDS, South Bend, Ind. What are the pyramids of Egypt, works of man, compared to the works of the Almighty. May 22, 1897. AGNES FARRAND, South Bend, Ind. May 22, 1897. CATHARINE C. E. SMAY, South Bend, Ind. May 22, 1897. EDWARD EVERTT SER, riontgomery City, Mo. In testimony of Captain Hance's idea of truth. May 22, 1897. Dr. MONS CARL MULLER, Prag, Austria. RUDOLF de HALEN, Hanover, Germany. GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVER. I03 May 24., 1897. JAHES H. flcCLINTOCK, Phoenix, Arizona. In his way, Hance is as great as the canon. May 25, 1S97. JOHN A. BECKWITH, Oakland, Cal. If Dickens had only been John Hance, what a book he could have written. As for the canon, it is undoubtedly the most wonderful thing of its kind on this earth. The crater of Kilauea, in violent action," is possibly the more impressive of the two. May 27, 1897- PREBIN A. LAURING. May 28, 1897. GEO. W. REEVE, ARCHIE REEVE, Jlontreal. May 28, 1897. JOHN ADAMS LOWELL, Boston, Mass. May 28, 1897. L. MACDONALD, Montreal, Canada. May j/, 1897 . KANSAS TOURISTS. We hope when next We visit the canons, To find John and . Peck dearer companions. May she put on a dress, To cover her pants, And change her name To Mrs. John Hance. May they be supplied With plenty of bedding, When we all come to dance, At the Hance-Peck wedding. John, if ever inclined To go on a tipple, Just go to the canon, And behold Peck's nipple. May 31, 1897. J. P. CAMPBELL, Ashland, Kans. Next to the Grand Canon, Captain John Hance and his trail are two of the great- est wonders of the world. The half was never told. June r, 1897. ROBERT W. PARK, Stockyards, Kansas City, flo. io4 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE June I, 1897. F. MOULTON BARRETT, Devon, England. During our stay at the Grand Canon, we were much indebted to Captain Hance for his excellent arrangements, courtesy, and his wonderful information. June I, 1897. GILBERT DAVIDSON, Devon, England. I heartily endorse all my friend has said. June I, 1897. n. C. CAMPBELL, Wichita, Kans. El Canon Grande" de la Colorado is, in my judgment, one of the greatest wonders of the world. Captain Hance, the mod- ern path-finder, well deserving the title. June 1, 1897. H. RIEDHAN, Hamburg, Germany. Heartily endorsing everything said above. June 1, 1897. JOS. TANGERNAN, Newport- Ky. June 1, 1897. G. W. MEAD, Jr., Brooklyn, N. Y. June 6, 1897. Hr. and Mrs. ERNEST de SASSE= VILLE, Denver, Colo. June 10, 1897. FRANK J. HAHN, Philadelphia, Pa. The kindness of Captain Hance and Mr. Clayton have made our stay a very *pleasant one. June 10, 1897. EMILIE F. HAHN. In testimony of the courtesy and kind- ness of Captain John Hance and Mr. Clayton. June if, 1897. R. W. DANA. Delighted with everything, even the mules. June 1 J, 1897. CHAS. STANFORD. Vastly pleased with the whole trip. GRAND CANON OK TIIK COLORADO RIVKR. I05 Jiine 1 j, 1897. P. E. KIPP. Marvelous are Thy works, and that my soul knoweth right well. June 18, 1897. WALTER Q. BENTLEY, 200 Randolph St., Chicago, 111. While memory holds a seat in this dis- tracted orb shall I forget the impression made by this short acquaintance with the greatest of all natural wonders. It is a great pleasure to be able to vouch for Captain John Hance, as guide and friend, without whom tourists would be deprived of the most impressive part of their visit, a trip down the trail to the river. After a trip down the trail and back yesterday, and a visit to Points Moran and Bissell to-day, under the Hance guidance, would certainly urge every visitor to avail him- self of Mr. Hance's trail, thereby assuring to himself the very best condition for get- ting the most value out of his visit. June 23, 1897. IRA D. HAVEN, WIFE and DAUGH TER, Oakland, Cal. Jime 26, 1897. Mr. and Mrs. JOHN R. VOSKAMP, Pittsburg, Pa. June 14 to July 1, 1897. AMELIA B. HOLLENBACK, Brooklyn, N. Y. Thank Captain Hance and the canon for the happiest two weeks any one ever s-pent. June 14 to July 1, 1897. JOSEPHINE W. HOLLENBACK, Brooklyn, N. Y. Our expectations for years have beet* fully and more than happily realized dur- ing the last two weeks. To Captain John Hance we are deeply- indebted for his untiring courtesy and kindness, which have helped to make our visit at the Grand Canon all that it has been to us. July 2, 1897. THOS. R. LATTA, WM. JACK LATTA, riAMIE LESH LATTA, Goshen, Ind. July 2, 1897. Mrs. MARY E. LESH, Goshen, Ind. July 2, 1897. Mr. and Mrs. J. A. TAYLOR, Arrowsmith, III. Words are inadequate to express the awful sublimity and grandeur of the Grand Canon. Many thanks to Captain John Hance for his kindness. iob PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE Ju'y 2, 1897. H. C. McCLURE AND WIFE, Qileson City, III. Whilst lie lasts we can never forget the generous kindness and humane hos- pitality of our friend, Captain John Hance. May he have long life in his well-doing. July 2, 1897. T. C. POLING, Quincy, HI. Any one who comes to the Grand Canon, and fails to meet Captain John Hance, will miss half the show. I can certify that he can tell the truth, though it is claimed by his friends that he is not exactly like the Rev. Geo. W. in that particular, as he can do the other thing when necessary to make a story sound right. Long live Captain Hance. July 7, 1897. ■ W. A. HALL, Whitewater, Wis. For the Lord is a Great God. In His hand are the deep places of the earth.— Psalms, xcv:3, 4. July 7, 1897. nr. and Hrs. F. A. PATTEE, Los Angeles, Cal. Had an out-of-sight time. Words fail to express our delight and satisfaction with all we have seen. July 7, 1897. F. A. PATTEE. My Dear Captain: — You may build trails into it, up it, and around it; you may ever take a few more of those celebrated horseback -jumps over its crest, but you can never catch up with it. Yours, in the world where they lie still some day. July 10, 1S9J. LEE DOYLE, CHESTER BLACK, JOHNIE DOYLE, GEORGE BLACK, JIITMIE SMITH, BURT DOYLE, All of Flagstaff, Ariz. July is, 1897. S. G. BAYNE, New York. July 16, 1S97. Dr. B. WALLA, Budapest, Hungary. July 16, 1897. KALHOIN SAXLETHER, Budapest, Hungary. 2 o < u Q 2 u w H H U < -J — In W S H THE STALACTITE CAVES OF THE GRAND CANON. J. CURTIS WASSON. Perhaps the destined single attraction of the Grand Canon is the new Stalactite Caves, lately discovered about 3,000 feet below the rim. The formations within the caves are something wonderful. Passing in through an aperture some eight feet in diameter, a large avenue of limestone leads you on until you are suddenly surprised to find yourself standing in a large rotunda with a great high ceiling, suspended from which are long stalactite formations, some so long in fact that they almost reach the stalagmite formations protruding from the floor beneath. Winding in and out, up and down, through long cavernous recesses, now through a tunnel leading to greater and longer tunnels, which in turn act as a vestry, making an entrance to other large domes, which, having avenues after avenues leading out to other domes, halls, recesses, avenues, etc., until the feet becoming weary we, candles in hand, sit down upon some snowy formation beneath, and while the candles flicker, as if offering a faint murmur against the impenetrable darkness, which feign would obscure our vision with its itensity, the awful stillness seems to bear down upon all mental activity and bid it relegate all thought to the rear. But as if in defiance of that awful foreboding which seems to come when the fall of a footstep, the breaking away of a formation, or the sound of a voice finds the sequel in the echo and re-echoing of each cavern, dome, avenue, and pit in that great subterranean cavern where King Phantom may reign supreme with a retinue of fairies, imps, and hobgoblins to go at his bidding, — in defiance of this our mind unconsciously lingers on the uniqueness of the situation. Our lights having been extinguished, we await the awful still- ness which a place thus isolated alone can give, — so intense in fact 133 !34 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE GRAND CANON. that the darkness of a Plutonian Shore becomes a veritable light- house. Our heart-beats becoming audible, and the darkness becoming depressing with its intensity, it is with great relief that we again relight our candles, doubling the number. Looking directly in front some twenty feet, we see towering upward a great massive artificial edifice made by the constant dripping of ages. Bearing as it did such a strong resemblance to another great historic edifice we (as our eyes were first to see this the Second Cave discovered) called it the " Hanging Garden of Babylon." The fantastic forms, the enormous dimensions, the variegated coloring, from a pure white to a rich creamy hue, the graduated blending of one form, texture, color into another quite different, but none the less beautiful, the soft, velvety-cushioned floor, the disintegrated dust of the ages, the musical tones varying in pitch given off by the stalactite formations as they varied in length, — all these tend to make this — Babylon's Cave — atypical cave, more beautiful than the Mammoth, but whose extent is as yet unknown. o u p o uf ►J < w u < w THE WORLD IS CLEFT. THE BIGGEST HOLE IN THE GROUND IN EXISTENCE- — NATURE PLOWED A GIANT FURROW. Fitz-Mac Has Been Viewing the Wonders of the Grand Canon of the Colorado, and Tells What lie Saw and What Was Too Big for Him to Fully See. [From the Rocky Mountain News, Denver, Colo.] Shrive yourself, O gabbling and exclamatory seeker of wonders! Shrive yourselves, O wearied and wearisome trotters of the round and whirling globe! If hither you are coming to bathe your fretted spirits in the red and yellow silences of this abysmal scene, shrive yourselves ere you approach, of all your little vain conceits, of all your petty, gabbling rhetorical formulas of exclamatory ecstasy. They have served you well enough, no doubt, to voice the whole gamut of your delight, surprise, and amazement in the presence of such noble and pleasing wonders as Niagara, Yosemite, Yellow- stone, or even the Alps, but such safe and well-authorized exclama- tions as "Magnificent!" "Grand!" "Sublime!" have only a remote and altogether inadequate relation to the emotions that will be stirred within you by the appalling grandeurs of this stupendous chasm. They do very well for Niagara, or Yosemite, or the Alps, where the emotions you experience though unusual are not unique. But here they do not fit. They do not half go round the girth of your amazement. They are altogether inadequate, and to utter them would be like offering the jacket of a schoolboy to clothe the shoulders of a giant. And if you do utter them, they will sound, even to your own ears, petty and almost meaningless — unless, indeed, you be one of those inexorable egotists whose sturdy self- complacency no emotion can subordinate, in which case, of course, anything you could say would seem to yourself to dignify the occa- sion and the scene. 137 I3S PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE But if you be only the amiable, chattering, inquisitive, common- place globe-trotter and searcher-out of wonders, shrive yourself, 1 say, of all your little, shallow affectations of delight; of all those petty formulas of rhetorical ecstasy which elsewhere very well conceal the hungry poverty of your feelings, for they would not serve you in this tragic and stupendous presence, but only shame you by their inadequacy. Pause as you approach, and remove the sandals from your feet, as one who hath sinned goeth up unto the holy places of the Lord seeking absolution. For thou hast sinned, O gushing and exclam- atory globe-trotter! thou hast sinned against the majesty and the power of Nature by rashly exclaiming in the presence of great Niagara, " Ne plus ultra! this is greatest!" — or in the sublime shades of deep Yosemite by crying out, " There is nothing else so grand ! " — or perchance, gazing entranced upon the sky-piercing majesty of the Alps thou hast said conclusively: " This is greater than all besides ! here Nature hath done her uttermost ! " But your rash conclusiveness has betrayed you, O shallow chatterer, into denying the power of Nature to surprise, to astonish, to amaze, to thrill, to overawe, to subdue and reduce, to silence your puerile, self-deceiving, exclamatory egotism by the tragic anguish of devastation immeasurable and the bewildering mystery of splendors unique, resistless, and overwhelming here presented. Here you might lose a hundred Yosemites and never be able to find them again. Here a dozen Niagaras would form but details in the stupendous scene. You might scatter the whole mass of the Alps through the 700 miles of this abysmal chasm without filling it up. It behooves you to come humbly and with bared feet into the presence of a wonder that dwarfs all other wonders of the world — for it is here and not elsewhere that Nature hath done her uttermost; here a world's sublimest tragedy was enacted — is still enacting with all scenes set; the tableau vivant of an immortal anguish, a glorified despair; pride and strength laid low and beauty bleeding; the triumph of chaos and devastation; a petrified woe, yet not GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVKR. I39 ghastly and forbidding, strange to say, but fascinating, for this imperial tragedy of Nature is not set amidst ignoble and plebeian scenes, but is draped and curtained with every charm of color, with all the massive and imposing dignity of Pompeiian reds and yellows, with all the imperial magnificence of the Tyrian purple; with all the gorgeous splendors of orange hues and violet that go with a tropical sunset; with all the pensive beguilement of tender amber-greenish lights that belong to the creeping break of dawn — and all these, the massive, the gorgeous, the magnificent, the sen- suous, the brilliant, the mellow, the tender, swept and swirled by great Nature's unerring brush into a ravishing, harmonious, chro- matic maze that bursts upon the view with an effect as if the skies had opened and all the choirs of heaven had broken into a grand and joyful overture, an allegro through which runs a penetrating minor chord of tragic sadness. And it is so, somewhat, if you have the impressional delicacy to feel it. Otherwise of course it is not so at all to you. For it is true — or else the sympathy of one sense with another beguiles the reason — that the colors in this ravishing chromatic maze are endued with the magic of melody and odor. But this is something incommunicable. It is probably not a thing to be insisted upon as a fact. Either you feel it or it is not so — for you. I met a beautiful girl from Chicago out on " the rim " — locally here they call the verge of the chasm the rim — the other morning before sunrise, who was profoundly affected by it. She was a lovely and sensitive creature, just graduated from a fashionable boarding- school, and she was eating caramels and sobbing like a lost child. Anybody not quite as stolid and unimpressionable as the ox is pretty sure to have a sobbing spell here, especially if one gets off alone and yields himself up to the stupendous impressions of the scene, the sensation is so unique, so penetrating, so irresistible. It is really something of a pain — a sweet discomfort, a miserable bliss — like being in love, sadly and tearfully in love, with a girl 140 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE who is going to marry another fellow — like but not the same. The inexorable most always affects us somewhat like that, and the unique beauty of this scene is of the inexorable sort. You may enjoy it, but you cannot possess it. You can add nothing to it by praise, take nothing from it by detraction. It is not the matchless immensity of it, I think, that overcomes you, but that your senses cannot quite encompass and analyze its unique and elusive quality. At first it is more or less appalling, I think, to everybody — but only just at first, as an elephant would be to a little child. Pres- ently, like the child with the elephant, finding it docs not crush you, you desire to become familiar with it, to patronize it, to make it feel that your intentions are entirely friendly. And then the elephantine impassiveness of the thing begins to irritate you, and yet to fascinate. Next you know you are in love with it. You want to remain forever; you want to leave at once; you don't know what you want. It is thus love always begins, thus always proceeds — at least as far as I know anything about it. If you could only quarrel with this stupendous thing, and fling back at its feet all the beautiful things it has given you, then burst into tears and kiss and make up, it would be perfect. But you can't do it, you know. This great thing that frightens you by its appalling immensity, that enthralls you by the magic of its matchless beauty, that bewilders and mysti- fies your senses by the vague, odoriferous minor tones of its melo- dious purples, and by the vast, echoless silences of its Pompeiian reds and yellows, is inexorable to your puny emotions. That is what irritates you, what makes you sob unconsciously as you gaze off into the illimitable chromatic maze. Hither, to this point, long ago came Thomas Moran, the painter, and painted for the people of the United States that great scene which hangs in the capitol, and which, no doubt, has damaged his reputation with many people who regard it as a hysterical exag- geration, a sort of beautiful chromatic nightmare. But Moran's reputation will be utterly ruined with such people r DO Z o < u z «! w X a z > =3 J U W u > u z z z o u z - GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVER. 143 when they see the grand chasm for themselves, and learn what broad concessions he made to the public incredulity regarding the scene. But for a truth the finest effects here are incommunicable by brush or pen. They give themselves up only to the personal pres- ence, and no painter nor writer can do more than suggest what they are by presenting something which they are a little like. You cannot paint a silence, nor a sound, nor an odor, nor an emotion, nor a sob. If you are skillful, you may suggest them to the imag- ination by some symbol understood, and Moran's fine picture does this admirably. It gives one sublime glimpse of those abysmal depths, one irresistible suggestion of those vast and sublime sil- ences, one momentary flash of that marvelous scheme of color suggesting melody and fragrance — but only suggesting. Yet that is all which human skill can do with brush or pen. There are not colors for the brush, there are not symbols for the pen to convey the full impression of the immensity of the scene, its innumerable and measureless grandeurs. The scene in its stupendous ensemble is too vast for art. It is indeed almost too much for human nature. You cannot behold it for the first time without a gasp, however blase your spirits may have become by globe-trotting, because the spectacle is unique, and the impression is therefore unique too. There is a sublime pathos in it all which no art I think can touch — or scarcely touch, for on reflection, I am not sure but Moran's noble picture does vaguely suggest it. It is this that presses the unconscious sob from your breast, that draws the pen- sive tears to your eyes, you know not why, as you gaze — that is, if you happen to be gazing alone. It is as if you dreamed that God had died, and this deep chasm were the gorgeous and sublime sep- ulchre in which He was to be laid — but of course if you are a natural insensate or a busy, gabbling, inquisitive, wearisome won- der-seeker, shallow of heart and shallow of head, you will be troubled by none of that vague, unique anguish about the death of God, or that equally vague and equally unique joy about the dis- 144 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE covery of melody and fragrance in those massive and gorgeous colors that give enchantment to the scene. You are altogether too practical and conclusive a being to think of getting any spiritual growth from the innumerable and incommunicable sublimities of this place. All that you want is facts — facts and statistics of measurement to write down in that detestable note-book you are carrying around in your hand. You have no time for vague and nebulous impressions about fragrant and melodious colors swathing the sepulchre of God. You are not rendered blissfully miserable by the strange emotions which the splendors and the immensity of the spectacle arouse within you. You don't want any vague, nebulous, incommunicable, soul-broadening sentimentality in yours — not if you know yourself. What you want is something to gabble about after you leave — measurements, facts, and figures. Do I know how many thousand feet it is down to the bottom of the chasm where we catch, here and there, a glimpse of a little ribbon of water ? Do I think it is really nearly 7,000 feet in the perpendicular and about three miles in the slant — five by the trail ? Is the trail safe ? Is it dangerous ? Does it really take two days to go down and back ? Can it be possible ? Do I think that it is really and truly thirteen miles across to the opposite rim of the chasm ? Why it looks as if one might call to a person over there. Can it be possible that this chasm is 700 miles long ? Do I believe it ? Is n't it incredible that we can be standing here on this rim in the very center of the whole geological series of the earth's crust, with that yawning abyss reaching more than a mile deeper, and the river running in the archean granite ? How can they know that the geological horizon in which we are standing here on this rim is the upper carboniferous ? By this cherty limestone? Is cherty spelled c-h-u-r-t-y or c-h-i-r ? Do I believe the Government really paid Moran $i8,OOOfor a picture ? Sir, or madam, whichever your sex may be, you are no doubt a perfectly respectable and worthy person, but to me, at this time and in this place, you are, with your gabbling, inquisitive tongue and GRAND CANON OP THE COLORADO RIVER. 145 your note-book, an insufferable bore. Pray address your questions to somebody interested in the mensurations and the geology of this overwhelming spectacle. I am only concerned with the impressions it makes upon my senses, and I don't care a whether it is 7,000 feet or 7,000 miles down to the bottom of the chasm. To me it is just as far as it seems, and I don't care what the figures are. It is the deepest, the most stupendous, the most appalling, the most mystically beautiful, the most sublimely pathetic — in a word, the most moving and irresistible tragedy I have ever beheld or ever expect to, and I wish you would leave me to enjoy my own im- pressions. As you are unable to share them, I beg that you will be so good as not to interrupt them with questions in mensuration and kindergarten geology. I don't know whether cherty is spelled with u or i or an ox-yoke, and I don't care a . All that you ask, and a thousand times more, you will find authoritatively stated in the reports of several scientific surveys made by the Government and printed as public documents. They will be found in any public library worthy of the name in the United States. Ask the librarian to let you see the Report on the Expedition of Lieutenant Whipple, in 1853-4; the Expedition of Lieutenant Ives, in 1858; that of Major Powell, about 1868; that by Lieutenant Wheeler, published in 1875, vol. Ill, and whatever else has followed. If you have not easy access to a large public library, send to " The Bureau of Scientific Surveys, Washington," (this is not the exact title, but it will do,) and ask for a catalogue of the publications bearing on the Grand Canon of the Colorado. From this you can select what you want, and perhaps obtain it free through your Member of Congress; if not, the cost is but a trifle. Major Powell's book is the thing you should get. The railroad does not come within sixty-five miles of the Grand Canon. You leave the cars at Flagstaff, Arizona, and come out by the daily stage. It is an easy and delightful ride of ten or eleven hours, most of the way through the beautiful, park-like Coconino pine forest and " The National Grand Canon Reserve," which con- I4 6 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE GRAND CANON. tains about 2,000,000 acres. The road lies along the base of the beautiful San Francisco Mountains, and you are whirled along at breezy speed, in an easy coach, behind a champing four-in-hand team, through a charming succession of sylvan scenes, in a crisp and bracing atmosphere that comes to your lungs laden with homely odor of pine and the bewitching fragrance of wild flowers. The horses are changed four times on the way and so are always fresh, and there is none of the old, dusty, thumping stage-coach sensation of dragging along. Come to see it. There is no hardship in the journey. You must not conclude that because it is in Arizona it will be found hot. The altitude prevents. All the way from Flagstaff " to the rim " it is about 7,000 feet. Come and see it. The trip will be a grand episode in your life. The matchless spectacle will become a noble and deathless memory. Come and behold the marvelous vision where silence has dimen- sion and color; where color has melody and fragrance. Come and dream of the gorgeous and appalling sepulchre of God and then you will realize how inadequately I have, in this hasty sketch, suggested to your imagination its stupendous glories and its sublime pathos. Fitz-Mac. 3 O < u Q < ai O W s H H «i 03 H Z w H Q S5 < J W H O s THE GRAND CANON CAVERN. I From the Coconino Sun, Flagstaff, Arizona.] To a cook named Joseph Gildner, employed in the mining camp of Messrs. Cameron & Berry in the Grand Canon of the Colorado near Flagstaff, Arizona, belongs the honor of discovering what savants had looked for in vain, although they had every reason to presume that what they sought was in existence, and what geologists have long desired to find, in the hope that some further light might be thrown upon some matters connected with the geological forma- tion of the Grand Canon, which hitherto could only be conjectured. It has long been contended that if caves could only be discovered some more definite information could be gleaned of the many thou- sands of feet of strata which it is claimed by geologists have been swept away by erosion from the surface of this platform. Several of the caves have lately been discovered, but only one so far has been partially explored, and that is the one located by the man Gildner. Standing on Clear Creek Canon, a mile below the plateau on which the camp and mines are situated, and looking up at the en- trance to this cave, one is filled with vague horror and amazement at the mere thought of any one venturing to climb along the pre- cipitous face of the mountain to explore its depths. Even with the aid of a powerful glass it does not seem possible that a chamois or mountain goat could find a foothold there. How the man ever got there in the first instance without a rope or any other assistance and escaped falling down and being dashed to pieces at the base of the rock, a precipitous descent of over 1,000 feet, is a mystery. But certain it is he got there and found two entrances to the cave, through one of which he was barely able to drag his body, but the vision he there beheld in the dim, imperfect light made him quickly withdraw and acquaint the manager and active partner of the mine, Mr. P. D. Berry, with his discovery. 149 150 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE The cliff in which this cave was discovered rises almost abruptly from the plateau on which the camp is situated, and frowns down menacingly on the canon below. It is truly a very forbidding object, composed of a dirty reddish limestone formation, and seems to warn the venturesome that death awaits him who would pry too closely into the secrets that Nature has so closely guarded in her im- penetrable bosom. But such considerations have but little weight with the men who establish the frontier settlements, and next morning Mr. Berry had a gang of men employed digging a trail from the summit of the plateau to the mouth of the cave. The work was arduous, but the persistent labor of the men was amply rewarded, and now they have got a trail that any one can walk along without danger, a splendid platform at the mouth of the cave about six feet wide, and the entrance has been enlarged until a man can almost walk into it erect. To describe it as a cave is not literally correct. It is rather an intricate series of caves branching out one from the other, and ex- tending in every direction under the mountains. The first cave or compartment is fully 300 feet long and of varying height, extend- ing from about ten feet in some places to eighty or ninety feet in others, and the view presented to the beholder is almost sufficient to take one's breath away. Pendent from the ceiling and the sides of the cave are the most beautiful formations of stalactite, and the reflection from these as the light of candles or torches is thrown on them is dazzling in its brilliancy. But while the glance is momen- tarily riveted on the scene here exposed to view, attention is almost insensibly drawn to the floor beneath. There a view is presented that beggars description. At first glance it would seem as if the bottom of the Indian Ocean had been suddenly transplanted for the benefit of the visitors to this cave. Mountain after mountain of coral, pink and white, appear in rapid succession, while sea ane- mones of every conceivable hue and color seem to float around in endless variety. There are parterres and rows of flowers arranged in such order that it would put any landscape painter to the blush, GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVER. '5' while the bowers and grottoes that abound might have served as a resting-place for Queen Mab and her fairy satellites. The second cave is of about the same dimensions as the first, but much higher, and the columns of stalactite are very much larger and more diversified in shape. Here large pieces of stalactite have fallen from the roof and sides of the cave, pressed down by the superincumbent weight, and been shattered to atoms on the floor below, while vast sheets hang from the walls with scarcely any perceptible support, revealing almost every form of animate or inanimate nature, grotesque at times, 'tis true, but always with a sufficiently strong resemblance. Here may be found the jaws of leviathan sharks, the serrated rows of teeth looking as ugly as if the monster were springing from the deep to tear down its victim who was being hoisted on board a vessel; there the deadly swordfish, with its cruel, sharp weapon, ever in readiness for attack or defense; while in the most inconceivable places may be found saws of every description, from the tiniest to the big cross-cut. But the most wonderful sight of all is what is called the " White Cave." Shortly after entering, the visitor is confronted with a lion rampant on a pedestal about eighteen inches long. The figure stands about a foot high and is as nearly perfect in detail as any- thing that ever left the sculptor's or molder's hands. A few feet from there stands a Burmese pagoda which, when a candle is placed in rear of it, seems to be lighted up as if for service, while the sacred elephant stands out in bold relief in dazzling whiteness, a piece of crystallized lime forming the eye which, with the glare of the candle upon it, seems to flash out luridly and angrily at having been disturbed after ages of repose. It would be impossible to describe the various compartments the writer went through in a journey of about four hours. Many of them are of such enormous height that the flare of the candles or torches serves. to reveal nothing but impenetrable blackness up above, while the sides in all cases are lined with the most fantastic and grotesque shapes. In one place is to be found a bay window, the curtains and 152 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE GRAND CANON. window blinds arranged in the most artistic manner, while every- where you can select your own chime of bells and discourse sweet music with cymbals thrown in. A peculiar feature about this cave is, that whereas most of the stalactite is formed by white limestone, there is none of that sub- stance now forming the rock, the upper strata being composed of the red limestone, and it will be a question for geologists to deter- mine what period of time has elapsed since this stalactite, whiter than alabaster, was formed. Moreover, everything in the cave at the present time is as dry as tinder, and it would seem as if centuries had elapsed since any water percolated through. A bathroom there is of enormous dimensions, but no trace of water, nor is there any evidence of animal life beyond the nests made by some rats. The cave varies from about ten feet high at the entrance to where you cannot see the top. Its width is from sixty to seventy feet, but its length has not yet been determined on, and it is simply a matter of conjecture as to where it leads. About ioo feet from the en- trance the visitor is confronted with a regular forest of trees from eight to ten feet in height, the branches and leaves being almost as perfect as in a natural forest. And yet these are all formed of stal- agmite of dazzling whiteness. The cave also abounds in grotesque forms pendant from the roof and sides, and any one visiting the Grand Canon of the Colorado will miss one of the principal attractions if they omit to see them. OOINO TO THE liRAN'l) CANON. AN ENTHUSIASTIC DESCRIPTION. BY G. WHARTON JAMES, PASADENA, CM.. The Grand Canon! God's stupendous masterpiece on earth! A mountain chain turned upside down and thrust into the world's crust, with all its ravines, crests, gorges, ridges, detached pea and forests, and at the lowest point of the V, made the bed of an immense river. A chaos of color such as no mountain range on earth ever resembled, for, while there are forests, there are hundreds of square miles of bare, barren, solid rock in all the colors, shades and tints of the rainbow, a striking red being the dominant note in this novel harmony of colors. A wilderness of architectural forms such as no other wilderness affords, or dream of earth's paltry builders ever conceived, for here are suggestions for new styles of architecture when Assyrian, Egyptian, Hindoo, Greek, Roman, Tartarian, Gothic, Florentine, Elizabethan, and more modern styles are relegated to the lumber-piles of the ages. Towers, domes, obelisks, palaces, cathedrals, castles innumerable, stupendous in size, grand and majestic in ensemble, harmonious in proportion, novel in architecture. With cunning skill the chisels of the ages, the enawine forces of Nature, have molded and shaped the slowly- yielding rock to suit the mind of the Master Architect, and man, astounded, bewildered, delighted, gazes at the results in cntrance- ment. Reached from Flagstaff and other points on the great transcon- tinental line of the Santa Fe Railway, that traveler affords himself a scenic banquet, incomparable and unique, who visits this unequaled "Water-way of the Gods.'' According to the concep- tions of the localized aborigines, this vast chasm was made by their most powerful gods, and to prevent weak, puny, curious man from following them to the abodes of deity, they turned the vast stream 155 156 PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE of the Colorado River into its depths. But " in the days when the world will be aged" the course of the stream will be diverted, and the gods will come again to earth. And, slightly to the left of Grand View Point, at the head of the Grand View trail, reached from Flagstaff, three-fourths of the way across the canon can be seen the giant, rocky gateway through which the new-coming gods will make their descent. Directly across is the vast wall of the great Kaibab plateau, one of the highest portions of the whole rim of the canon. Slightly to the right, the most imposing of all the towers of this gloriously carved region is one named "Powell's Temple," dedicated to that indefatigable and daring explorer, Major J. W. Powell, formerly director of the United States Geological Survey and the Bureau of Ethnology, and to whose endeavors the exploration of the long and dangerous depths of the canons of the Colorado was due. On the south side of the canon are the Three Castles, on a tilting stratum of rock, and a little beyond is "Ayer's Peak," so named from Mrs. E. E. Ayer, of Chicago, the first white woman who is known to have made the descent to the river at this point. Several miles to the east, still on the south side, its summit crowned and shaded by a portion of the vast Coconino Forest, is Moran's Point, on which the great artist made his noted painting of the canon, and, a few miles beyond, is Bissel's Point, from which an extended view is had of the sculptured forms made by the influx of the Little Colorado River, and the open space in the canon through which the Colorado Grande winds its tortuous way towards the sea. Across from Bissel's Point is Cape Final, the last great cape of the Kaibab plateau. It is from just above this point the real Grand Canon begins. While Marble, Glen, and a score of other canons higher up the river are stupendous, marvelous, grand, it is only when the river reaches the primeval rock, the granite, of which the foundations of the world are formed, that the sublime depths of this unique waterway are disclosed. For a distance of some two hundred and seventeen GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO RIVKR. 157 miles the river rages and dashes and roars, pouring its tremendous flood headlong to the passage it has cut through the sandy deserts of Eastern California, and this two hundred and seventeen miles only is known distinctively as The Grand Canon. No other canon in the world should be known by that name, no matter how qualified. Just as it seems irreverent to use the name of the Deity to designate- false gods, so is it to use the name of this solitary piece of divinely wrought grandeur for any inferior work. For over a decade I have been closely studying it, wandering along its rim for hundreds of miles, exploring its side canons in every direction, and seeking to penetrate to the secrets of its lowest depths. Months and months of familiar study have not lessened its attractions, nor lowered the profound feelings of awe with which it has always impressed me. I return to it constantly as a lover to his mistress, a student to his books, a chemist to the mysteries he would solve, a prospector to the gold he would discover, and ever and always do I find in it new treasures of sublime grandeur, new glories of stupendous carving, new enhancements of gorgeous coloring, all declaring in their own unmistakable language, — "The hand that made us is Divine." o < U Q < O J < H W 2; < o w w u THE GRAND CANON. [From the Coconino Sun, Flagstaff, Arizona.] The Grand Canon is the most wonderful geological and spec- tacular phenomenon known to mankind. It was no exaggeration to call it the sublimest of gorges, the Titan of chasms. There is but one Grand Canon, and nowhere on earth can its like be found. Language is too faint and weak to convey any adequate idea of the sublimity and grandeur of this most awe-inspiring of Nature's wondrous works. It must be seen to be appreciated, and even then humanity stands aghast, oppressed with an indefinable sense of terror, while at the same time all the senses are charmed with the indescribable beauties that are opened up to the vision. An eminent writer in describing it defined it as " An inferno, swathed in soft celestial fires; a whole chaotic under-world, just emptied of primeval floods and waiting for a new creative world; a boding, terrible thing, unflinchingly real, yet spectral as a dream, eluding all sense of perspective or dimension; outstretching the faculty of measurement, overlapping the confines of definite apprehension." This stupendous panorama is situated wholly in the northern part of Arizona. Correctly speaking, it is not a canon, but rather an intricate system of canons, all subordinate to the river channel. and forming a whole that is fully one thousand square miles in extent. 161 r i > H bs < *~* •z o tr. « 3 U X . w X o X 125 H < £■• U £ Q h Z O <; Cm _- w o p a fc o b u, < H tf) — a < < cu j w fcn H o < H a: H w £> u O < - H < 1/5 fc O •^ < u D £ < D, O HOW TO GET THERE. To those to whom the Grand Canon of the Colorado is a terra incognito a few words may not be amiss as to how to get there. Starting from any point where the Santa Fe railroad has either a direct line of communication, Albuquerque, N. M., is easily reached, and from thence on to Flagstaff, Ariz., the traveler is carried oil through some of the most beautiful and diversified scenery of the Rockies. Arriving at Flagstaff a stagecoach is taken to the Grand Canon. Then the drive is sixty-five miles long, which is easily accomplished in ten hours, there being four relays of horses for the journey, so that the animajs are always fresh, and the road being a solid mountain road free from any obstructions, jars and jolts .ire almost unknown. The course is along what is perhaps the most beautiful scenery in Arizona or elsewhere. For the first twenty miles it lies through a beautiful forest of pine trees, dotted here and there with parks, circling the base of the far-famed San Francisco Mountains, past the pre-historic cave dwellings and away out into the open prairie, relieved by tracts of scrub cedar and pinyon tr the home of the prairie-dog and antelope. An excellent lunch can be procured at Cedar Ranch, thirty-four miles from Flagstaff, and thence once more away across the prairie through Cottontail Canon, where geologists can find much to interest them, one side of the canon, which is only about fifty feet wide, being composed of lime- stone formation while the opposite side is malapai. Then bounding over the prairie again until Moqui is reached, and a few miles further when the road again lies through the lordly Coconino forest interspersed with sylvan glades and fragrant meadows for about twelve miles. The caves, which now form one of the principal of the many attractions of the Grand Canon, can only be reached by the Cameron or Grand View trail. G. K. Woods, General Manager Grand Canon Stage Line. 163 "POR any further information in regard to the Grand Canon of the Colorado River in Arizona, or this volume, address, G. K. WOODS, General Manager Grand Canon Stage Line Flagstaff, Arizona Ter. H^fWfWQtfM*9&&&j&&p UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY This book is DUE on the last date stamped below ; ~^ JUL 2 7 1961 wm m •We RECTO U)-^ wt " Form L-9 20?H-1,'42(S519) UNIVERSITY of CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES LIBRARY 3 1 58 00947 6390 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 000 750 752 8