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 », thoroughly 
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 THE PRINCIPLES OF BEAUTY, 
 
 .s manifested in Nature, Art, and Human Character ; with a Claa 
 
 ration of Deformities. II. An Essay on the Temperaments (with 
 
 12 ehromo-lithographie Illustrations in fac -simile . r-colouv 
 
 M^s by the Author). III. Thoughts on Grei I Gothic 
 
 ecture. Edited by the Author's relation, CHRISTIANA C. 
 
 HANKIN. 1 toI. post 8vo. 12*. Gd. 
 
 " rpMERE isacurknisold-world a qui 
 -*• nan 
 
 ■ • 
 
 ■ ' ' ' : 
 
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 md her, or convin 
 
 ut admiring the purity of her pur- 
 
 f pose and the variety of her information, 
 and confident that she will never kn 
 
 ■ 
 as of its anthoi psycholh- 
 
 gical fatten n that affectionate 
 
 ghly rx-r- 
 
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 reliyious 
 aspiration- ity of tone 
 
 1st a' tract 
 1 its sub- 
 Ttmpera- 
 of Beauty 
 
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 is a great deal better. " Guardian. 
 
 London : LONGMAN, GREEN, and CO. Paternoster How. 
 5 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
 Wl 
 
a 
 
WANDERINGS 
 
 THE LAND OF HAM. 
 
LONDON : 
 
 PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. 
 
 NEW-STREET SQUARE. 
 
WANDERINGS 
 
 THE LAND OF HAM. 
 
 BY 
 
 A DAUGHTER OF JAPHET. 
 
 Egypt is monotonous— but it is the monotony of Paradise. 
 
 Osbubn's Monumental History of Egypt. 
 
 jEgypte, iEgypte, solse supersunt fabulae, et seque incredibile posteris, 
 sola supersunt verba lapidibus incisa. 
 
 Book* Of HEBMB3. 
 
 LONDON: 
 LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS. 
 
 1858. 
 
fotijj jjearifelt agmpa% 
 to tip 
 
 Utttmmbs 
 
 in % 
 
DT5^r 
 
 D5« 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 u Some said, ■ John, print it,' others said ' no ;' 
 Some thought it might do good, others said ' not so.' 
 
 It may seem presumptuous in one unknown to fame 
 to intrude on the sacred ground of authorship, to 
 enter the lists where so many bright lights have 
 illumined the grand highway of knowledge, and more 
 especially to venture on the track of the lamented 
 Warburton, the talented Kinglake, and the far-famed 
 Harriet Martineau ; but if these pages can afford the 
 reader any pleasure however slight, if they shall re- 
 call to the Nile Hawagee any agreeable reminiscences 
 of the happy months he spent in Egypt, I shall feel 
 that the mite which I have contributed to the daily 
 increasing store of books of travel has not been 
 altogether worthless. 
 
 M313662 
 
Vlll PREFACE. 
 
 And let not the sedate traveller of mature years, 
 whose enthusiasm has been subdued by the realities 
 of Egyptian plagues, and whose eyes have hardly yet 
 recovered from penetrating sand and sunny glare, 
 turn away from these pages with contempt ; but rather 
 let his mind dwell on the cloudless days and moon- 
 light nights that he enjoyed, — the glorious temples 
 and tombs he explored, — and all disagreeable sights 
 and smells and sounds will vanish from his memory, 
 and he will only wish that, like the author, he had 
 " done the Nile" at seventeen. 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Page 
 Lyons. — Valence. — Avignon. — Visit to Vaucluse. — Mar- 
 seilles. — Voyage to Malta, — Excursions in the Island. — 
 Arrival in Egypt ...... I 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Cairo. — Visit to the Hareem of Said Pasha. — Citadel. — 
 Mosque of Mohammed Ali. — Choice of a Boat. — The 
 " Bahroota." — Rhoda Island . . . .25 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Difficulties. — Accident. — Return to Cairo. — Shoubra. — 
 Fresh Start. — Gebel-el-Tayr. — Sioot. — Dinner Party. — 
 Visit to Sheikh Selim . . . . .46 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Arrival at Thebes. — Ruins on the Western Bank. — Karnak 
 by Moonlight. — Nile Cuisine. — Philae. — Assouan . 70 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Philae. — Descent of the Cataracts. — Desert Scenery. — Quarries 
 of Hagar Silsileh. — Bedouin Encampment. — Temple of 
 Erment. — Nile Justice . . . . .92 
 
X CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Page 
 
 Thebes . . . . . . .114 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 The Temple of Dendera. — Visit to a Monastery. — Tomb of 
 Sheikh Hereedee. — The Forbidden Fruit. — Nile Minstrelsy. 
 
 — Holy Men. — Grottoes of Beni Hassan. — Sugar Manu- 
 factory. — Sakias and Shadoofs. — Pyramids of Sakkara, — 
 Mummy Pits ...... 140 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 The Pyramids of Ghizeh. — The Sphinx. — Mosque of Sultan 
 Amr. — The Copts. — Conscription. — Plague of Flies. — 
 Last interview with the Crew. •*» Farewell to the " Sphinx" 174 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Scene in the Desert. — Suez Canal Question. — A Dejeuner. 
 
 — Visit to Ismail Pasha's Hareem* — Tombs of the Pashas. 
 
 — Tombs of the Mamelukes. — Arab Funeral. — Islamism 196 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 The City of On. — Bazaars. — Street Sounds. — Shepheard's 
 Hotel. — Alexandria. — Departure from the Land of Ham 216 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Hotel at : Malta. — Church Bells. — San Giovanni. — Costumes. 
 
 — Calisses. — Citta Vecchia. — Natives. — Sliema. — Harbours. 
 
 — The " Cambria." — Domestic Troubles. — Voyage to Gib- 
 raltar ....... 239 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Landing at Gibraltar. — Difficulties, — The King's Arms. — 
 Expedition over the Rock. — Monkeys. — Spanish Women. 
 
 — Costumes. — San Roque. — A Bull-ring. — Leave Gibral- 
 tar. — Cadiz. — A Fellow- Passenger . . . 255 
 
CONTENTS. XI 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Page 
 
 Arrival at Lisbon Braganza Hotel. — Portuguese Bull- 
 fights. — " Cherub." — San Roque. — San Girolarao. — Cin- 
 tra. — Cork Convent. — Montserrat. — Palace of Marialva. — 
 Manners and Customs. — Leave Lisbon. — Vigo. — Oporto. 
 — Bay of Biscay. — Home ..... 273 
 
 APPENDIX 301 
 
WANDERINGS 
 
 IN 
 
 THE LAND OF HAM 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Lyons. — Valence. — Avignon. — Visit to Vaucluse. — Marseilles. 
 — Voyage to Malta. — Excursions in the Island. — Arrival in 
 Egypt. 
 
 4 The party whose proceedings during eight months 
 form the subject of the present volume, consisted of 
 my mother, my eldest brother, an English maid, an 
 Indian man-servant, and myself. 
 
 A severe illness in Paris had compelled my brother 
 to seek a milder climate for the winter months, and 
 my mother, braving the many discomforts of an 
 Egyptian tour, determined to devote herself to him, 
 while I, to my intense satisfaction, accompanied 
 them. 
 
 I installed myself as recorder of our adventures, 
 
 B 
 
 I* 
 
2 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 though truly with no intention at the time of pre- 
 senting them to the public. As an apology for 
 offering them in so rough a style, I must be allowed 
 to state that they are given, with few exceptions, as 
 they were hastily written down at the moment. 
 
 November 2nd, 1854, Lyons. — We left Paris last 
 night by the express train, and were detained an 
 hour and a half on the road, by the bursting of one 
 of the pipes of the engine ; we had to send a long 
 way for another, and meanwhile stood still with our 
 broken engine puffing and panting, and letting off 
 all its steam ; but no harm happened to us, and in 
 process of time we reached Lyons. 
 
 I do not think that this town can be at all pre- 
 possessing even in fine weather, but seen for the first 
 time at eight o'clock on a cold foggy November 
 morning its appearance is most gloomy and for- 
 bidding. We had written from Paris to secure rooms 
 at the Hotel de l'Univers, and were sorry to hear that 
 it was at some distance from the railway station, 
 which is in an out of the way part of the town. 
 If all Lyons resembles the part we traversed that 
 morning it must be a most uninviting city. The 
 streets were very crowded, and the people looked 
 dirty and uncivilised ; many of the women wore huge 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 3 
 
 straw hats. We were not sorry, after spending fully 
 an hour on the road, to reach our hotel, where we 
 found the rooms clean and tolerably comfortable. We 
 are charged fourteen francs a-day for them. 
 
 Nov. 3rd. — We went out to see the town this after- 
 noon ; this was not feasible to any great extent, for 
 the fog hid almost everything from our view, and the 
 attractions of a cold east wind did not invite us far 
 from our hotel. We went to the cathedral, which 
 has a fine west front, but buildings close it in on all 
 the other sides : it is black and gloomy-looking both 
 outside and inside. After walking through it, we 
 wandered up and down, in and out, of the dirtiest, 
 ugliest, and worst smelling streets I ever saw. There 
 is a large square close to the hotel, in which is an 
 ugly equestrian statue of Louis XIV. ; a band plays 
 there for an hour every day, and it seems the chief 
 lounge of the citizens. 
 
 Nov. 4th. — A cold north wind having replaced 
 the damp easterly one, and blown away the fog, we 
 seized the opportunity of seeing the town to greater 
 advantage. The Saone, which is the largest of the 
 two muddy rivers on which this town is situated, 
 runs through a deep valley, on one side of which are 
 high precipitous cliffs ; at the top of these rocks, on 
 
 B 2 
 
4 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 the east side of the river, stands an observatory. 
 The view from it on a fine day is said to be very 
 extensive. 
 
 Neither Mont Blanc nor the Jura Alps were visible 
 to-day, but we saw the beautiful ranges of the 
 Auvergne and Lyonnais mountains ; and we had an 
 excellent view of the town, which appears very ex- 
 tensive ; on the left of the city rises the Cote d'Or, a 
 conical-shaped hill. There is a chapel close to the 
 observatory, built as a token of gratitude to the 
 Virgin, for preservation from the cholera in 1832 
 and 1835 ; it is hung with votive offerings, and pil- 
 grimages are made to it. There are thirty-four 
 different orders of nuns and soeurs de charite at 
 Lyons, besides several religious orders of men, and 
 among them a college of Jesuits. 
 
 Nov. 5th, Sunday. — We inquired at the hotel 
 for the English chapel, and were accordingly driven 
 to a small meeting-house, from thence to a French 
 Protestant Chapel, and were at last landed in the 
 American Episcopalian place of worship, where we 
 heard the service for the 5th of November read, for 
 perhaps the first time in our lives. 
 
 Nov. 6th. — We left the hotel this morning at 
 eight o'clock, and went on board the steamer which 
 was to take us to Valence. Something having gone 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 5 
 
 wrong with the engine, we did not start till half-past 
 twelve. A good many of the passengers left the boat, 
 and the captain was obliged to refund their fares. 
 I really felt sorry for him, as he sat cooped up in a 
 small bureau, with a gendarme on one side, and a 
 lot of angry passengers reclaiming their money on 
 the other; while a dozen or two more were re- 
 peatedly asking when we were to start. " Dans vingt- 
 cinq minutes au plus tard? was the unfailing and 
 untrue answer given and passed all round the boat. 
 There was a large Yankee party on board, who made 
 more fuss than any one else at the detention. I 
 overheard one of them saying, "If we had one of 
 the Mississippi captains here, I calculate he'd get up 
 steam, and have us slick down to Valence in no 
 time." Francesco Madiai and his wife were on 
 board ; they were going to winter at Nice : they are 
 both quiet and unpretending-looking people, and 
 tried to avoid the English passengers, some of whom 
 were endeavouring to bring them into notice. 
 
 The scenery of the Khone is beautiful in many 
 places; the banks are high and wooded, and fine 
 bold rocks jut out at every turn : some parts of the 
 river reminded me of the Wye. The town of Vienne 
 is very picturesque ; there is a cathedral in it erected 
 
 B 3 
 
6 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 in the eleventh century ; the town is built on the 
 slope of a hill, and looks very ancient. 
 
 We were so late in arriving at Valence that all the 
 trains had left for the south, and the passengers had 
 all to be accommodated with beds. Valence is not 
 celebrated for its hotels ; the one in which I am now 
 writing is the best, and all our fellow travellers ac- 
 cordingly fixed their affections upon it. The land- 
 ing-place was crowded with boys and porters of all 
 sizes, shouting at the pitch of their voices. There 
 was a tremendous rush to be the first to land. As 
 soon as I could, I flew off with our maid to the Hotel 
 de la Poste, secured two bedrooms, locked the doors, 
 pocketed the keys, and hurried back again to an- 
 nounce our good fortune to the rest of the party. 
 
 The others, taking their time, arrived at the hotel 
 about six o'clock, when we had some bad coffee, and 
 soon after went to bed. 
 
 Nov. 1th. — This morning, after breakfast, I pro- 
 ceeded on a voyage of discovery through the town ; 
 first to the station, to secure a coupe for the after- 
 noon, then to the suspension bridge, and lastly to the 
 cathedral. Part of this building is very old. The 
 east end is in the Norman style of architecture. 
 Pope Pius VI. was buried here. I saw a saint, or 
 rather a figure of one, in a glass case : he had been 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 7 
 
 lately brought from a neighbouring village with great 
 pomp. 
 
 I never was in such a noisy hotel as that of the 
 "Poste;" our bedrooms looked into a yard, where 
 diligences were coming and going, horses were being 
 cleaned and clipped all night long : our rooms how- 
 ever were very clean. 
 
 The line of rail between Valence and Avignon is 
 beautiful ; the ranges of snow-capped Alps on one 
 side, and the precipitous cliffs on the other, are mag- 
 nificent. We passed many ruined castles strongly 
 situated, and surrounded with broken down fortifi- 
 cations, all plainly showing the warlike state of this 
 part of the country in former times. We saw several 
 picturesque old towns which, with their undulating 
 foregrounds and backgrounds of noble mountains, 
 would have furnished subjects for many beautiful 
 drawings. 
 
 We arrived at Avignon at four p.m. The Hotel de 
 l'Europe, where we are lodged, seems very com- 
 fortable. Fig, olive, ilex, and mulberry are the only 
 trees one sees in this part of France. 
 
 Nov. 8th. — We have been sight-seeing at Avignon, 
 and have had as much experience as we could wish 
 of the effects of the bise. This is the name given to 
 a cold piercing wind peculiar to the south of France. 
 
 B 4 
 
8 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 This morning we went to the Palais des Papes. The 
 poor Popes would be somewhat disconcerted if they 
 saw their reception rooms, dining-halls, state apart- 
 ments, and private boudoirs, converted into kitchens 
 and sleeping rooms for a regiment of soldiers. . Part 
 of the palace is used as a barrack, the rest has been 
 converted into a prison. A tower of considerable 
 height at one end of the palace is called the Grla- 
 ciere ; from it a hundred unfortunate victims of the 
 revolution of 1793 were precipitated into burning 
 lime ! and in the palmy days of the Inquisition it 
 was in a dungeon under this tower that the trials of 
 the Holy Office took place, and here that their sen- 
 tences were put into execution. The Avignon cathe- 
 dral is an ugly building, but it has the merit of 
 being old, having been erected fifty years before 
 Christ. It does not look so venerable, owing to fre- 
 quent whitewashings. It is situated on a precipice 
 overhanging the Ehone ; the view of the river and 
 of the old Pont du Grard is beautiful. 
 
 We shivered through the streets for some time ; 
 looked into the Jardin des Plantes ; tried the doors 
 of one or two churches, the outsides of which are 
 rather pretty, but which we found locked ; admired 
 the exterior of the theatre, and at last found our way 
 to the Chapelle des Penitents Noirs, where a nun 
 
THE LAND OF HAH. 9 
 
 showed us a celebrated ivory crucifix, carved in 1650, 
 which Canova, it is said, admired very much. The 
 nuns keep a Hospice des Insenses; there are two 
 hundred and fifty patients in the establishment. The 
 streets here are tolerably clean, but they are paved 
 with such peculiarly sharp pointed stones, that it is 
 impossible to walk for any length of time upon them ; 
 everything here has a clean and whitewashed ap- 
 pearance, and though one knows the houses are very 
 ancient, they do not impress one with any respect 
 for their antiquity. The patois of the lower orders 
 is almost unintelligible ; it is, I suppose, the remains 
 of the old Provencal ; we were surprised to find 
 books printed in it. The shops were full of old 
 vases and other petits objets, relics of the Eomans. 
 
 Nov. 9th. — To-day we went a long and weary pil- 
 grimage to visit the Fountain of Vaucluse, the retreat 
 of Petrarch and Laura. Nothing but our reluctance 
 to leave Avignon without seeing this celebrated spot, 
 induced us to face the bitter bise, and be at the 
 trouble of going thirty miles through a flat and 
 most uninteresting country. 
 
 The drive from Avignon to Vaucluse is, with few 
 exceptions, the ugliest I have ever seen. No trees are 
 to be seen but dwarfish olives and mulberries, and 
 the chief produce of this department is the garance 
 
10 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 or madder, which is shipped off to all parts of the 
 world. When once at Vaucluse you hear and speak 
 of nothing but Petrarch and Laura ; the hotel you 
 put up at is dedicated to them ; you order your lunch 
 at it, as a matter of course ; and then are led along a 
 path which takes you to a grotto, where they used to 
 sit listening to the rush of a clear torrent of water. I 
 went down to the edge of their cavern: their 
 favourite seat was on a ledge of rock, overhanging 
 the fathomless basin of the fountain, and only acces- 
 sible when the water is not rising, as was the case 
 to-day. We are told there has been no rain here for 
 eight months ! A ruined castle stands upon a high 
 rock overlooking the source ; tradition is silent respect- 
 ing it or its founders, but beyond it are the humble 
 remains of Petrarch's house, and a laurel planted 
 by Laura's hands is pointed out in a garden close 
 beside it. 
 
 Independently of the associations connected with 
 the place, it is, in spite of the weary drive to it, well 
 worth visiting, and must be particularly so after heavy 
 rains. The source of the fountain is in a deep, and 
 it is believed bottomless, chasm in a rock ; a good 
 deal of water was flowing in the bed of the river, 
 but the main source was not running over; there 
 are, however, small ones in all directions, and 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 11 
 
 water bubbles up wherever a bole is made in the 
 ground. 
 
 Nov. \Oth. — We left Avignon this morning, and 
 are now lodged at the Hotel Bristol at Marseilles. 
 The scenery past which we travelled, was in parts 
 wild and dreary, and even where cultivation was 
 attempted, the result was far from picturesque, so 
 bleak and desolate was the landscape, but perhaps the 
 weather, which was very disagreeable, may have con- 
 tributed to the dismal aspect. 
 
 Marseilles looks well a long way off; but when 
 once in the town, the illusion disappears : the streets 
 though broad, are dirty and crowded. This hotel, in 
 which we found accommodation, after trying at two 
 or three others which were fall, is not prepossessing 
 from the outside ; its internal attractions have yet to 
 be discovered. 
 
 Nov. \\th. — Nearly the whole day has been spent 
 in going backwards and forwards to the Messageries 
 Imperiales, arranging about our passage to Malta. 
 We have also paid a visit to the steamer " Le Caire." 
 This is a most uncomfortable hotel ; the rooms are 
 draughty and cold ; the doors will not shut close ; the 
 bells are not answered ; the dinners are bad ; and the 
 tea and coffee both undrinkable ; the rooms are how- 
 ever clean, which some people think makes up for 
 
12 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 everything else. There seems to be nothing but men 
 in this town ; when we go out, we get stared at as if 
 women had never been seen before, and certainly one 
 meets but few ladies in the street. 
 
 Nov. \2th. — On board the French steamer "Caire." 
 We were here in good time this morning before any 
 of the other passengers ; but to our dismay, found a 
 troop of cavalry, and another of artillery coming on 
 board ; there were some horses also, and the horse- 
 boxes were placed immediately over our berths. 
 Hour after hour wore on, and still we did not start, 
 for the wind rose so high that the captain would 
 not leave the harbour. Preparations for stormy 
 weather were made : horse boxes, benches, and guns 
 were lashed securely to the decks, but we did 
 not leave our moorings till late in the afternoon. 
 The staff of authorities on board consists of the com- 
 mandant, captain, lieutenant, mate, doctor and com- 
 missary agent, so we shall do well as far as masters 
 go, but a French crew look most unsailorlike. We 
 have a delightful cabin all to ourselves, for there are 
 no other ladies ; there are two berths, and two sofas 
 in it, besides a piano, a table and several chairs, and 
 it is beautifully fitted up with lamps and mirrors. 
 There are only five English and one French first- 
 class passengers; the latter is the colonel of the troops 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 13 
 
 on board ; his name is Borel de Bretisel. All the other 
 officers go second-class. 
 
 Nov. \4£h. — The wind was high all yesterday, but 
 we were in smooth water while passing through the 
 straits of Bonifacio; Corsica and Sardinia appear 
 mountainous, and very barren as far as we could see. 
 The cuisine on board is excellent ; we have dejeuner 
 a la fourchette at ten, a capital dinner at five, and 
 tea in our own salon at eight. The commandant, 
 whose name is Gabeiron, is a very queer little man ; 
 he is the image of a chimpanzee; the stewardess 
 says he is bon comme le pain ; she is never tired of 
 recounting his good qualities. I think, considering 
 we are the only ladies on board, we might have been 
 treated with a little more attention, but perhaps 
 politeness is not a board-ship quality, and English- 
 men fresh from their own country are seldom 
 sociable or communicative ; but the only thing we 
 have to complain of is the noise of the horses at 
 night, which stamp and kick at no allowance. 
 
 Nov. 16th. --When we went on deck this morning 
 we found we were in sight of the island of Grozo. 
 The water was as smooth as a looking-glass, and the 
 sun got hotter and hotter as we neared Malta. This 
 island looks barren from the sea ; not a blade of grass 
 or the ghost of a tree to be seen ; everything looks 
 
14 WANDEBINGS IN 
 
 parched and burnt up ; the stone is of such a glaring 
 whiteness that all the buildings appear as if built 
 yesterday. On dropping our anchor a boat was seen 
 approaching, and an officer in it, whose flag was a 
 union jack on a yellow ground. This individual had 
 come from the quarantine office to inquire for our 
 health, which, happily for us, was very good. He 
 brought the news of the battle of Inkermann, fought 
 on the 5th instant. Every one crowded round him 
 to hear the particulars, but he had not brought a 
 list of the fallen, so most of the passengers hurried 
 off to the palace. 
 
 We had no difficulty in landing, for, owing to the 
 kindness of a friend on the island, we found one of 
 the governor's boats waiting for us, and his coach- 
 man ready to look after us and our baggage ; so we 
 left the old " Caire " in style. The lieutenant could 
 not find words to express how great a loss we should 
 be, and I in return assured him how sorry we were 
 to quit our comfortable quarters. 
 
 We are lodged in Dunsford's Hotel, Strada Forni, 
 and have very pleasant rooms. I went to the Opera 
 this evening and heard " Luisa Miller." There is a 
 very good opera here, considering the size of the 
 place, and the prima donna, Madlle. Parepa, is a 
 great favourite. This is a curious town, half Euro- 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 15 
 
 pean, half Oriental ; in the streets one meets people 
 from nearly every country under the sun. The houses 
 have all flat roofs; I forget how many miles it is 
 computed a person might walk on the tops of the 
 houses. The streets are most of them named after 
 some saint, whose figure, larger than life, is stuck up 
 in a niche at either end ; they are all at right angles to 
 each other, and very narrow, so when it blows hard the 
 wind comes whistling down in gusts. The " sirocco " 
 was blowing to-day ; it is a most disagreeable wind, 
 and makes one feel thoroughly uncomfortable and out 
 of sorts. Everything that goes wrong is attributed to 
 it : if one's clothes come home from the wash un- 
 starched, you are told that the starch will not take 
 when the sirocco blows; if the furniture cracks, or 
 anything becomes unglued, it is the sirocco's fault ; 
 in short, in Malta, instead of the usual answer, "No- 
 body did it," or, " it broke itself," the sirocco comes 
 into play and gets all the blame. 
 
 The ugliness of this island is something unique. 
 There is as much land cultivated as the rocky nature 
 of the place will admit of; the fields are fenced in 
 with stone dykes, which, from a distance, increase 
 the bare and barren look of the country. The only 
 trees, or rather shrubs, indigenous to the soil, are the 
 cactus, or prickly pear (which grows with tropical 
 
16 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 luxuriance), and the carob, or locust tree ; this plant 
 bears a small fruit like a bean pod, only of a much 
 darker colour, which is dried and given to cattle ; it 
 was with the husks of these pods (which are usually 
 given to swine) that the Prodigal Son was glad to 
 feed himself. There are also a few palms in the 
 island, but this is, I think, the sum total of the trees, 
 except the gardens of olives, oranges, figs and lemons, 
 which are private property. Living is wonderfully 
 cheap here, considering the number of things im- 
 ported. Beef and mutton come from Sicily; milk 
 and butter are very scarce ; the goats supply the 
 greater quantity in winter. There is no coal on the 
 island, and there is certainly not a stick to be found. 
 In winter coal is 71. or Si. a ton ; charcoal is used for 
 kitchen purposes. We are surprised at seeing gas- 
 pipes being laid down ; the expense will be enormous ; 
 but it is much wanted, for the streets are not lighted in 
 any way. The jewellery here, as every one knows, is 
 beautiful ; the Maltese equal the Genoese in their 
 gold and silver filigree work. 
 
 Nov. 20th. — My mother and I joined a large party 
 to-day, assembled for a picnic to St. Paul's Bay. This 
 spot is about ten miles from Valetta, on the north 
 side of the island. The sun was hotter than on an 
 English July day, and in looking for a place to take 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 17 
 
 our luncheon in, we found a delightful shady creek, 
 into which some of us scrambled, but as the seniors 
 of the party would not or could not join us, we re- 
 joined them, and, perched upon a rock, we did justice 
 to the excellent contents of the various baskets. The 
 scenery round the bay is wild and pretty ; when one 
 is on a rocky beach, the want of trees is of course 
 not felt. It is generally believed that this is the 
 place where St. Paul was shipwrecked ; the descrip- 
 tion of the island, and of the place where " two seas 
 met," is clearly identified, and according to Sir Wil- 
 liam Reid's book on the * Law of Storms," his being 
 driven here is accounted for very easily ; but where 
 he got sticks to light a fire with, is to this day un- 
 known ; for few or rather no sticks would a ship- 
 wrecked man now find. 
 
 Nov. 28th. — The weather is continuing lovely, at 
 least for all who enjoy heat. We dined last night at 
 the Admiralty, and came back to Valetta at midnight 
 in an open boat, enjoying the refreshing coolness of 
 the sea breeze. 
 
 Nov. 29th. — We set off to-day with a party of 
 friends to see Vedallah, an ancient castle situated on 
 a hill, and named after the knight who built it ; it is 
 now used as a summer residence by the Governor of 
 the Island. 
 
 c 
 
18 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 The day was unusually windy and showery, so we 
 eat our luncheon in the dining-hall of the Castle ; a 
 fine room with a vaulted roof, ornamented with 
 frescoes of gods and goddesses, and with the life of 
 Vedallah in glowing colours. Afterwards we had a 
 charming walk in the Boschetto, a beautiful grove of 
 orange-trees. Our object in setting out was to see 
 some cliffs eight hundred feet in height, which over- 
 hang the sea, and are said to be very beautiful, but 
 the wind was so high as to prevent our going so far. 
 
 Dec. 7 th. — We drove to-day to the public gardens 
 of San Antonio, another of the summer residences of 
 the Governor. The orangery is beautiful, and as 
 we had permission to help ourselves ad libitum, we 
 rather enjoyed the novelty of the occupation. Malta 
 is celebrated for mandarin oranges, which grow here 
 in great abundance. 
 
 Dec. 1 5th, Alexandria. — We left Malta on the 
 10th, and after a very rough passage, set foot in 
 Africa this morning. 
 
 Being unable to procure berths in any of the 
 Peninsular and Oriental Company's ships, we were 
 obliged to put up with a small French "tub," of 
 250 horse-power, called the " Scamandre," where the 
 terrors of a regular Mediterranean squall were greatly 
 enhanced by learning that our frail barque had been 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 19 
 
 condemned by the Government as unseaworthy some 
 years ago, and was only allowed to run while the 
 larger steamers were in such requisition as transports 
 for the troops. We tossed and pitched about the 
 whole of the 13th, on which day I had the deck 
 pretty nearly to myself. 
 
 There were several Americans on board, one of 
 whom was continually betting with the engineer as 
 to when we should get into Alexandria; the conse- 
 quence was that our crazy barque was put at her 
 greatest speed, the engine became red-hot, and we 
 had to lay to for some hours to cool it, and to replace 
 the connecting-rod between the paddles which had 
 given way. In coming into harbour this same Yan- 
 kee bet that the pilot would be blind of one eye (a 
 safe bet, as we learnt soon after our arrival in 
 Egypt*); and which he won. 
 
 Among the English passengers on board there was 
 one very charming and agreeable person, the Rev. 
 W. W. E. He has a living near Liverpool, and is 
 altogether the most delightful and intelligent tra 
 veiling companion we have seen. He is bound for 
 the Nile, and is in pursuit of health. We saw a good 
 
 * It is a common custom among the Arabs to deprive themselves 
 of their right eyes to render them useless as soldiers, their horror 
 of conscription being very great. 
 
 c 2 
 
20 WANDEKINGS IN 
 
 deal of him, and the more we saw of him and Mrs. 
 E. the more we hoped to meet them again in Egypt. 
 We were much interested in our stewardess, Isa- 
 belle Vanpon *, of Marseilles ; she had early in life 
 devoted herself to works of charity, and seemed (by 
 her own account, but it sounded like the truth,) to 
 be always throwing herself forward in scenes of dis- 
 tress. On more than one occasion at Marseilles, she 
 saved several people who would otherwise have 
 perished by fire, and in the times of cholera, she did 
 what no one else could ever be found to do. My 
 mother, who is a timid sailor, communicated to her 
 her fears for our safety ; but though it was as I have 
 said extremely rough, and this was the first time in 
 her life she had been at sea, she said she could not 
 conceive what fear could be, — that she and several 
 of her friends had attended masses, and had other- 
 wise committed her to the peculiar care of God and 
 the Blessed Virgin, and that she therefore felt it to 
 be wholly and utterly impossible for her to come to 
 any harm. She asked if we did not find it written 
 in our " Book," that those " who trust in the Lord 
 
 * She gave us her card, in case we should ever return to Mar- 
 seilles ; it was as follows : — " Isabelle Vancon, Garde-maladc, se 
 charge de guerir les choleriques. Rue des Trois Mages, no. 30, au 
 2me. Marseille. " 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 21 
 
 shall never be confounded," and she repeatedly re- 
 minded my mother that there were on board tt quatre 
 soeurs de charite, deux bons ecclesiastiques, un frere 
 des ecoles chretiennes, et . . . de Veau benite /" With 
 regard to her personal safety she said she felt con- 
 vinced that if she saw us all " engouffres" she would 
 be saved on the top of the mast ! My mother was 
 too sick to point out to her that her trust was some- 
 what that of the fatalist ; that we ought to leave all 
 in G-od's hands, and feel confident that He would do 
 what was best, and that it might be the best thing 
 for her to be drowned. She was very kind, attentive, 
 and sympathising, and had all the appearance, and 
 indeed I should say the most intense feeling, of de- 
 votion ; my mother saw her on her knees one night, 
 for at least two hours, when she thought every one 
 else was asleep. 
 
 As soon as the steamboat stopped there was an 
 invasion of Arabs in every variety of colours. Crowds 
 of boats put off to us, and many of them boarded us. 
 I shall never forget the scene ; such a motley crew, 
 and such a noise ; Arabs, Turks, Greeks, Syrians, 
 Jews, Levantines, each roaring in his own tongue, 
 and at the pitch of his voice. On they came, the 
 "True Believers," with an indescribable noise and 
 bustle. My brother recognised a dragoman who had 
 
 c 3 
 
22 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 travelled with a friend of his, when he was in Egypt 
 some years ago, and having a good impression of him 
 instantly engaged him at 71. a month.* His name 
 is Ismael Moosa ; his sobriquet by which he is uni- 
 versally known is Aboo Shenab, or Father of the 
 Long Moustache. He is a short thick man, with a 
 magnificent red and yellow turban. In process of 
 time we got our luggage up from the hold, and after 
 a most wordy and amusing scuffle among the boat- 
 men, as to who should have the honour of taking us, 
 we at last reached the shore. I was not sorry to 
 leave the " Scamandre," for we had been too crowded 
 to be comfortable, and besides we were leaving it for 
 Africa ; we were to commence our wanderings in the 
 Land of Ham, in the far-famed Egypt of the ancient 
 world ! We drove to Key's Hotel, through crowded 
 and narrow streets, and when once at our windows we 
 could not leave them for a moment, so strange were 
 the groups of turbaned figures that met our view. Our 
 rooms looked into the great Frank square, alive with 
 the most picturesque scenes imaginable; men and 
 women of every nation, some on foot, some on horse- 
 back, some on donkeys. Strings of camels, sulky, me- 
 lancholy, ill-tempered looking camels, passing to and 
 
 * A dragoman's wages vary from 6/. to 10/. a month ; and some 
 ask even more than this. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 23 
 
 fro, some loaded, some not, but all with a fixed, de- 
 termined look of being pleased with nothing and 
 displeased with every body. We had a letter to the 
 Consul, which we sent, and presently he and Mrs. Gr. 
 called ; both of them are kind and obliging people, 
 ready to do anything for us. 
 
 I went with my mother this afternoon to see Pom- 
 pey's Pillar, or " Bombey's Billar," as the donkey 
 boys called it. This famous monument consists of a 
 single column of the Corinthian order, ninety-nine feet 
 in height ; it stands on a slight eminence, and over- 
 looks a barren plain, broken by mounds of rubbish, 
 the only remains of the far-famed city of Alexandria. 
 It marks the site of an ancient stadium, and as some 
 conjecture of the Gymnasium, which was surrounded 
 with majestic porticoes of granite. Now it looks 
 down upon a rude Mohammedan cemetery, whose 
 plastered tombs, glaring in the sun, crowd round its 
 dismantled base. " This pillar is the one solitary 
 monument of the old city upon its southern front, 
 and answers to the one standing obelisk that is its 
 solitary monument on the north. Of its origin it is 
 as silent as the mummy in Belzoni's tomb, but there 
 is no doubt that Pompey's Pillar is really a mis- 
 nomer ; for the inscription shows it to have been 
 erected by Publius, the Prefect of Egypt, in honour 
 
 c 4 
 
24 WANDEKINGS IN 
 
 of Diocletian, who subdued a revolt at Alexandria by- 
 capturing the city, a.d. 296."* A certain W. Button 
 has immortalised his own ugly name, and disfigured 
 the base of the monument, by recording his visit in 
 letters a foot high. 
 
 The country about Alexandria is very green, and 
 there are a good many trees. Acacias are the most 
 common ; they attain a size unknown in England ; 
 their foliage, which is very beautiful, grows so much 
 more luxuriantly here, that one hardly recognises 
 them for the same tree. 
 
 * "Wilkinson's Ancient Egyptians. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 25 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Cairo. — Visit to the Hareem of Said Pasha.— Citadel. — Mosque of 
 Mohammed Ali. — Choice of a Boat. — " The Bahroota." — Rhoda 
 Island. 
 
 Dec. 17th. — We left Alexandria yesterday morn- 
 ing at nine o'clock, and proceeded by train for three 
 hours as far as Cafr Lais, where a steamer was wait- 
 ing to take us to Cairo. The railway runs parallel 
 to the Mahmoudieh Canal. Every one knows the 
 story of this canal. It was opened in 1828 ; its con- 
 struction was a part of the scheme of Mohammed Ali 
 for reviving the commerce of Alexandria with the 
 East. An army of two hundred and fifty thousand 
 persons was assembled to dig it, the mud being 
 scraped out with the hand or a common hoe, and 
 carried away in baskets : so miserable was the provi- 
 sion of food, clothing, and shelter for this multitude 
 of labourers, and so severe the tasks that were exacted 
 of them, that no less than twenty thousand are said 
 to have perished by accidents, hunger, and plague. 
 
 The part of the Delta through which we travelled 
 is still a good deal inundated; the railway passes 
 
26 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 near the Mareotis Lake, which smells as disagreeably 
 as the Pontine Marshes. Among the birds hovering 
 about it we saw buzzards, flamingoes, pelicans, storks, 
 cranes, ziczacs, wild-geese, ducks, and sand-pipers. 
 Though the country we passed through was certainly 
 not, strictly speaking, beautiful, yet it was so new to 
 us, and the feeling that we were actually in Egypt 
 was so delightful, that it was impossible not to take 
 an unusual interest in it, and we were disposed to see 
 every thing in a favourable light. It is very flat, 
 with here and there mounds of earth and broken 
 pottery, which in Egypt always mark the site of an 
 ancient city. The towns and villages we passed were 
 built of mud, in the most primitive style imaginable. 
 The roofs are made of matting, and a low aperture 
 serves the double purpose of door and window. There 
 are generally some tombs near the village, and the 
 whitewashed dome that marks the resting place of a 
 sheikh, or holy man, is often seen amidst the stems of 
 palm-trees. Wilkinson's description of one Arab 
 village will serve for all, — "a number of mud huts, 
 starved dogs, and squalling children." 
 
 We got into the steamboat at noon,* and whether 
 
 * Since the above was written the railway has been finished from 
 Cairo to Alexandria, and travellers thus escape the discomforts of 
 Nile steamboats 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 27 
 
 it was from the smallness of the engine, or from the 
 wind being contrary, I do not know, but we were 
 twenty-three hours in the boat — just double the usual 
 time ! It got so cold towards the evening, that at last 
 we were forced to retire into our cabins, if cabin it 
 might be called. My mother and I were put into a hole 
 in which there was a ledge of wood with a mattress 
 upon it, serving the double purpose of a bed for us and 
 a receptacle for a legion of creatures mentionable and 
 otherwise. Here we remained all night. We were 
 obliged to leave a chink of the door open, to get some 
 air, for there were no other means of ventilation ; 
 and at seven o'clock this morning, I caught a glimpse 
 of our dragoman's turban, and soon after heard 
 IsmaeTs voice saying, " Please, Miss, the Pyramids ! " 
 Up we jumped, and forgetting fleas and everything 
 else, we rushed on to the deck, and through the misty 
 haze of the morning sun, at a distance of twenty-five 
 miles, sure enough there were the Pyramids. I will 
 leave it to the reader's imagination to guess all that 
 was passing in my mirid at this moment. The bare 
 fact was sufficient to conjure up a host of associa- 
 tions. Those wondrous piles that had astonished 
 the eyes of every succeeding generation, from the 
 time of Abraham to the present moment, were be- 
 fore us ! 
 
28 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 We reached Boulak at half-past ten, and soon after 
 entered the gates of Cairo the Magnificent, and took 
 up our quarters at Shepherd's Hotel. 
 
 Dec. ISth. — We had a letter of introduction to a 
 lady who called on us this afternoon, and most kindly 
 offered to take us to see a hareem. This, we were 
 informed, was a great favour ; for as her acquaintance 
 in Cairo is large, she in general makes it a rule not 
 to offer a visit. However, as she is on intimate terms 
 with Zenob Khanum, the wife of Kourschid Pasha, 
 she sent to ask if she might present her two friends. 
 This princess is sister to Said Pasha, the Viceroy of 
 Egypt, and is at present on a visit to her brother from 
 Constantinople. We received a summons from her 
 in the course of the afternoon, and immediately re- 
 paired to her palace accompanied by our kind friend. 
 We were met at the door by a number of black slaves, 
 who ushered us through some outer halls, into a long 
 alley, arched over by branches of orange-trees, which 
 led into a large room paved with marble, where there 
 were crowds of black and white female slaves. The 
 next room we came to was the presence chamber ; it 
 was a very long room, richly carpeted, and furnished 
 only with divans and a few chairs arranged against 
 the walls ; the want of tables, or of anything in the 
 centre of the room, made it look very bare. We were 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 29 
 
 introduced in due form to the princess ; she was sit- 
 ting on a pile of cushions on a divan, at the further 
 end of the apartment. We touched her hand and 
 then pressed our own to our mouths and fore- 
 heads, she doing the same. Only intimate friends 
 kissed her hand. She made my mother sit next her, 
 and inquired through our friend who we were, and 
 what we had come to Egypt for ; she could not under- 
 stand what brought us if we were not consul's wives, 
 or otherwise belonging to some one in office ; she 
 could not believe we had come so far merely for 
 pleasure! Pipes were presented to each of us to 
 smoke; they were about five feet long and beautifully 
 ornamented; the mouth-pieces were of amber set 
 round with precious stones ; they alone were valued 
 at from one to two hundred guineas ; the pipe bowls 
 rested on the ground on little silver trays. Coffee was 
 handed round in exquisite little china finjans, or 
 cups, just the shape and size of egg cups ; these cups 
 were in cases of the same form, made of a filigree 
 work of silver and diamonds. The coffee was delicious, 
 though it was rather thick, as they never strain it, 
 and it was given us sometimes with and sometimes 
 without sugar ; they put ambergris in it to scent it. 
 The dresses both of the ladies and the slaves were 
 gorgeous ; some were made of the finest Cashmerian 
 
30 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 stuff, some of gold and silver tissue, and many were 
 lined with rich furs ; but costly as were the materials 
 of which these dresses were made, we thought the 
 make of them very ugly, and the figures they adorned 
 most ungainly. Every one knows that a Turkish 
 woman prides herself upon being fatter than her 
 neighbours ; this being the case, I need not expatiate 
 upon the unbecomingness of a close fitting garment, 
 which the under vest is ; over it are thrown in various 
 ways folds of rich stuffs which descend to the knee, or 
 ankle, below which the baggy yellow silk drawers are 
 seen in all their glory. We were disappointed at the 
 want of beauty, which we had some right to expect, 
 at least among the Circassian slaves. But even among 
 the young ones, there were few good-looking, and 
 some of them squinted ! As to the elderly women, they 
 were hideous to behold, and dreadfully fat. They 
 seldom go out even for a drive, and in consequence 
 look sickly and sleepy. Their eyebrows are darkened 
 with hold ; they are made to meet by a line across 
 the bridge of the nose. Their head dresses are very 
 ugly ; they crop their own hair very short, and as false 
 hair is considered more becoming, they wear a great 
 deal of it, generally in long pig-tails, in which they 
 plait black silk, and finish them off with a tassel ; 
 they tie red or snuff-coloured cotton handkerchiefs 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 31 
 
 round their heads, and these fascinating coiffures they 
 ornament profusely with precious stones, chiefly dia- 
 monds. Their jewellery is beautiful, and the quantity 
 they possess i$ immense ; they set more value upon 
 the size than upon the quality of their diamonds. 
 
 Eight frightful old hags squatted at one end of the 
 room, and nearly deafened us all the time of our visit 
 with their singing. They accompanied themselves 
 chiefly on tambourines, and tarrabukkas, (a kind 
 of drum). At our request two slaves were made to 
 dance ; this performance was more clumsy than it is 
 possible to imagine. The great art seemed to consist 
 in setting the heels down first, and turning the toes 
 in. Their dress was different to that of the other 
 slaves ; they wore light gauzey skirts, and very closely 
 fitting boddices, which looked like network of gold 
 and silver thread plentifully ornamented with jewels, 
 and hung all over with tiny coins which jingled at 
 every step. One peculiarly ungraceful movement, 
 which was frequently repeated, was done with the feet 
 far apart, by shaking the upper part of the body 
 violently, as if it was loosely resting upon the hips, 
 and was coming in two. They were very supple, and 
 threw themselves into the most extraordinary contor- 
 tions. They had castanets on their fingers, which 
 added to the din. In fact the noise was so great as 
 
32 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 to make it almost impossible to talk ; we therefore did 
 nothing but sip coffee, and smoke our pipes. This was 
 the second time of my trying to smoke ; I liked it 
 very much. The tobacco used by the ladies, and 
 indeed I believe by every one in Egypt, is a very 
 mild kind of Latakia, so named from a place on the 
 coast of Syria, where it is prepared in great quanti- 
 ties. In the hareems, it is highly perfumed and fills 
 the air with a delicious fragrant smell like incense. 
 Our visit lasted three hours, and we came away very 
 thankful that we were not doomed to spend our lives 
 in the same manner. 
 
 Dec, 19th. — We have been at Boolak all day 
 looking at the boats, and also at many strange 
 scenes too numerous to relate. There is a market 
 at Boolak, chiefly kept by women, who squat on 
 little square pieces of matting, with their mer- 
 chandise piled around them. We only saw three or 
 four boats for hire, as our dragoman informed us it 
 was so late in the season that there was no choice to be 
 had. There seemed so very little difference between 
 the few we saw, that we left the matter pretty much 
 in IsmaeFs hands. He accordingly selected one, 
 which he said belonged to an English colonel, and 
 for which we are to pay 701. for the trip to the 
 Second Cataract. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 33 
 
 Dec. 20th. — We are a great deal in the bazaars 
 during the day, making preparations for our Nile 
 boat voyage ; and are never tired of donkeying through 
 the streets, though we are sometimes nearly deafened 
 with the various sounds that meet the ear. "To 
 the right, to the left, old man, young woman,"* 
 are continually heard in every degree of noise. You 
 have nothing to do with the management of your 
 donkey ; a little ragged urchin, hanging on by the 
 tail, guides him with a sharp-pointed stick. The 
 perilous moment, both for the donkey and his rider, 
 is when the former gallops between two huge camels 
 laden with large stones ; what saves one then from 
 being made into mince-meat, I cannot say ; but by 
 dint of shrieking, screaming and beating, you escape 
 unhurt. Some of the bazaars are very handsome; 
 the Turkish bazaar particularly is gorgeous and glit- 
 tering with rich stuffs ; the streets are very cool, for 
 they are closed at the top with matting ; the shops 
 are all on the same plan ; there is no place for the 
 customers to go into, the goods are all arranged in a 
 square recess in the wall, in front of which the mer- 
 chant sits smoking upon a divan. 
 
 One of our new hotel acquaintances accompanied 
 
 * Yemeenak ! shemalak ! — ya Sheikh ! ya bint ! 
 D 
 
34 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 us to the citadel this afternoon ; the view from it is 
 very fine. The city of Cairo lies spread out beneath 
 it, and the mosques, with their tapering minarets, 
 appear to great advantage. Beyond the town, in 
 many silvery windings, is seen the majestic Nile; 
 and still further west, at the boundary of the fertile 
 plain, and on the verge of the sandy deserts, loom 
 eleven pyramids of different sizes. We went into the 
 handsome new mosque of Mohammed Ali. The 
 janissary at the door thought it necessary to make 
 a little fuss about our entering, and wanted us to 
 take off our shoes, but we compromised the matter 
 by having some large yellow slippers tied on, for 
 which we paid a piastre each. The floor of the 
 mosque is covered with fine matting, except in one 
 part which answers to the Jewish Holy of Holies, 
 and is the corner of the mosque nearest Mecca; 
 this is covered with rich carpets. The roof is sup- 
 ported by large square pillars, made of a kind of 
 alabaster ; this stone is very soft, and is capable of 
 receiving a high polish, but it looks very like 
 soap. The ceiling is ornamented with different sorts 
 of wood, and is hung with lamps; the pulpit and 
 reading-desk, from which the Koran is read, are 
 covered with red cloth, but they look very tawdry. 
 Mohammed Ali's tomb is in one corner of the mosque, 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 35 
 
 enclosed in an iron railing. The Mohammedans 
 hury their dead lying on their right sides, with their 
 faces turned towards Mecca. On leaving the mosque 
 we went to see Joseph's Well, which is a wonderful 
 piece of workmanship, considering the time it was 
 made, namely, in the reign of the great sultan 
 Yousef Saleh-ed-deen, the contemporary and rival of 
 Eichard Coeur de Lion. Part of the citadel dates 
 from his reign. 
 
 We have a very pleasant neighbour at the table- 
 d'hote, an old gentleman of eighty-seven, as active 
 and hale as if he were sixty.* He was consul at 
 Alexandria during the French expedition to Egypt 
 in 1797, knew Napoleon, Nelson, and Sir R. Aber- 
 cromby intimately, and talks of the events of the last 
 seventy years with great clearness, entering into the 
 most minute particulars, and relating many curious 
 anecdotes of those times. There is generally an 
 amusing scuffle at the table-d'hote breakfast for 
 cow's instead of buffalo's butter, and English instead 
 of the sour native bread; we always fare well, 
 thanks to the activity of our friends. So far from 
 England, every one is inclined to be sociable, and 
 we have made several agreeable acquaintances; among 
 
 * The founder of the principal bank in Egypt. 
 d 2 
 
36 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 them is an Irish general from India, who is the 
 buffo of the dinner table; he is comically solemn 
 himself, but keeps his friends in fits of laughter. 
 There is also an old Scotch major, who knows our 
 part of the country well, and who, when the fancy 
 strikes him, honours us with his company, and 
 amuses us very much by his grumpiness. 
 
 The Princess Zenob sent for us this afternoon to 
 het hareem, and we had the honour (I suppose I must 
 call it) of being presented to Said Pasha's wife, who 
 was there on a visit. They were taking a bath 
 when we arrived, so we sat down and smoked our 
 pipes till they came back. The slaves came round 
 us, and amused themselves with examining our brace- 
 lets, &c. Etiquette forbids short visits in the East, 
 so that three hours were spent in the same profitable 
 way as before. The slaves appeared to us to be on 
 very familiar terms with their royal mistresses ; but 
 we are informed these wretched ladies are so hard 
 up for amusement that they take an interest even in 
 the gossip of these women. Said Pasha's wife may 
 have been handsome in her youth, but her features 
 are coarse, and there is a miserable look of discontent 
 and dissatisfaction about her. She probably feels the 
 hardship of her lot, for she has taught herself to 
 read ; she is the only woman in Egypt who has any 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 37 
 
 knowledge of the kind. The slaves have their fingers 
 tipped with red, which is considered an improve- 
 ment. 
 
 "... Some bring leaves of Henna to imbue 
 The fingers' ends with a bright roseate hue, 
 So bright that in the mirror's depth they seem 
 Like tips of coral branches in the stream : 
 And others mix the kohol's jetty dye, 
 To give that long dark languish to the eye, 
 Which makes the maids, whom kings are proud to cull 
 From fair Circassians vales, so beautiful." * 
 
 Dec. 22nd. — It is a clear case, that we ought to 
 have laid in more than we did at Malta, towards the 
 provisions of our Nile boat. We should have had 
 less trouble, and got better things. It was rather 
 a difficult business to decide how much of every 
 little necessary was to be procured for a three and a 
 half months' voyage. But at last we fixed our day 
 for leaving the hotel, and proceeded down to our 
 boat. It had long been a question whether we should 
 take a maid or not. Several ladies who had made 
 the trip strongly dissuaded us, others, on the contrary, 
 laughed at the idea of leaving her behind. However, 
 considering the not very strong health of the party, 
 my mother decided on taking her. She was of 
 
 * Lalla Rookh. 
 D 3 
 
38 WANDEKINGS IN 
 
 course eager to go, and promised to out-do herself 
 in washing for us, cleaning our rooms, and, in short, 
 making herself more than generally useful. For the 
 guidance of future travellers, I would record our 
 own experience on this important subject: take a 
 maid on whom you can depend to do all this : and 
 let her be a person that you know and like, and 
 whom you can treat as a companion, without feeling 
 the consequences afterwards. During this journey 
 circumstances compel her to be always near you ; 
 she dines, not exactly in your sitting-room, but close 
 to it, with an open door between you. Our maid 
 took her meals on deck with the dragoman and my 
 brother's servant, and, as may be imagined, their 
 conversation bored us extremely. When she was in 
 her bedroom, only a curtain separated us, so when 
 we had anything to say, which we did not wish her 
 to hear, we had either to speak in a whisper, or 
 more usually in French or Italian. It is impossible 
 to conceive the gene and discomfort she often caused 
 us, and yet she was so useful that I do not know 
 what we should have done without her. 
 
 In a party in which there is but one lady, I would 
 certainly recommend a maid ; but, where there are 
 two, and they are in good health and accustomed to 
 shift for themselves, I should say they would be 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 39 
 
 much more independent and comfortable without an 
 attendant. 
 
 The cook, or one of the sailors, washes for the family, 
 and I have heard of some dragomen ironing tolerably 
 — but this is not an accomplishment that can be de- 
 pended upon, so we provided ourselves with irons 
 and starch. Everything which was of too delicate a 
 fabric to be submitted to our washermen, our maid 
 washed ; this, of course, we should have had to do for 
 ourselves if we had not taken her ; she also made our 
 beds, and arranged our sleeping apartments; the 
 dragoman scrubbed the floors. 
 
 As I said above, we went on board our boat, which 
 was ominously named " Bahroota," or the " Flea," 
 this afternoon ; but, to our horror, a few minutes after 
 we had discussed a scrambling tea, we perceived a 
 dreadful smell, which seemed to come up from under 
 the planks of the chief cabin, a saloon of eight feet 
 by nine : so we took up the flooring to investigate 
 the cause, and for some hours two of the crew bailed 
 up buckets full of filthy water. The swarthy Nubians 
 who performed the task nearly fainted, for the smell 
 was dreadful. Of course we made a row, threatened 
 and stormed till we were tired, but what could we 
 do ? The dragoman assured us it was quite an over- 
 
 D 4 
 
40 WANDEKINGS IN 
 
 sight, that it was always the same with all boats, &c. 
 &c. He swore by his beard that in a day or two it 
 should be all right : so we went to bed. 
 
 Dec. 23rd. — The cleaning of the boat continued 
 all day ; we sent for some quicklime, and got the in- 
 side of the hold whitewashed. We have fortunately 
 lost no time, for the wind has been dead against us, 
 so that we could not have moved. 
 
 Dec. 24:th. — South wind still blowing hard (we are 
 told this is the season for the north winds), so here 
 we are still at Boolak. We have shaken down rather 
 more comfortably, and have unpacked some of our 
 books. My mother and I rode up to Cairo to-day to 
 church. Our only episcopal representative is a Grer- 
 man clergyman, of the name of Lieder, who reads 
 the English service, and preaches every Sunday 
 morning. After service we went with Mrs. L. to her 
 drawing-room, and looked over her beautiful collec- 
 tion of Egyptian curiosities, which we were informed 
 were all for sale ! She lent us two books, and sold us 
 a second-hand copy of Colonel Leake's map of Egypt 
 for 21. 10s. The original price being 25s. ! She 
 informed us the money was to be appropriated to 
 missionary purposes. Mr. Lieder is an elderly gen- 
 tleman ; he is an excellent man, and is a first-rate 
 Coptic scholar. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 41 
 
 We got back to our boat by three o'clock, and as 
 the wind became favourable, we left our moorings 
 and began our journey up the Nile. About five 
 o'clock, just as we were finishing dinner, Mr. L., a 
 gentleman to whom we had been introduced in the 
 morning, was announced : he had ridden to Boolak, 
 and finding we had sailed, had followed us in a 
 dinghy, to give us a parcel of letters for a boat up 
 the river. He sat talking for a long time, then sud- 
 denly recollecting he had not got the pass-word to 
 enable him to re-enter Cairo, he despatched a mes- 
 senger to find it out for him ; but the man was too 
 late, so, after seeing his horse attended to on shore, 
 he begged leave to spend the night on our deck ; we 
 however managed to put him up more comfortably, 
 and by converting the saloon into a double-bedded 
 apartment, we gave him one of the cabins. Ismael 
 gave us his opinion unasked, which was to the 
 effect that "him to be quite foolish." The wind 
 having taken us on but a little way, we found our- 
 selves, about sunset, moored off Ehoda Island, where 
 Arab tradition says that Moses was found. 
 
 Christmas day. — This morning, at half-past eight, 
 we went out with our guest to take a stroll on the 
 island, but managing to lose our way, we were ob- 
 liged to get into a country boat, and after crossing 
 
42 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 the river to walk on the opposite shore, till we came 
 in sight of the "Flea;" we then hailed our dinghy 
 and reached home; we were, however, so late that 
 we had to give up all hopes of reaching Cairo in time 
 for church. Our friend left us after breakfast, and 
 sent down a most acceptable addition to our library. 
 Dec. 26th. — There has been so strong a head wind 
 all day that we have been unable even to tow or 
 "track" the boat. The Nile traveller soon becomes 
 familiar with this manner of proceeding. When 
 there is no wind, or if it is only slightly contrary, 
 the boat is impelled against the current, not with 
 oars, for they are useless going up the river, but by 
 pulling, with a long rope, which passes through a loop 
 half way up the mast, and is fastened to the upper 
 deck near the tiller : this rope is taken ashore, and 
 the crew attach to it small cords, which they bind 
 about their heads, and then march in procession, 
 singing doleful songs, and seldom going faster than 
 four or five miles a-day ; the ground they have to 
 walk over is generally very broken ; sometimes a 
 light wind assists the towing, but it is always tedious 
 work. Very often the rope catches on a bush and 
 breaks ; then off goes the boat, and if the current is 
 strong a good deal of ground is lost : in turning sharp 
 corners where the stream runs fast, the rope some- 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 43 
 
 times gives way five or six times before the point is 
 passed. 
 
 We walked on Ehoda Island to-day with Ismael, 
 and went to see one of the pasha's palaces. The 
 gardens round it are in beautiful order; the head- 
 gardener is a Scotchman. Terraces paved with 
 marble form the point of the island, hanging per- 
 pendicularly over the water. The woods consist of 
 orange, lemon, fig, mulberry, mimosa, and olive trees, 
 the latter are much superior to the French ones. 
 There are also several banana trees; the fruit, which 
 is at present ripe, grows in thick tufts ; many people 
 dislike the taste, which I have heard compared to 
 scented soap. Sugar canes are plentiful; there are 
 three crops a-year of them. We saw a very curious 
 tree which must be of immense age, whether the 
 tradition that Moses sat under its branches is true or 
 not. A certain cure for all diseases is found by 
 driving a nail into this tree, and hanging a bit of rag 
 at the end. I cannot think how it is still alive, for 
 it is covered with nails. The fruit is like the crab- 
 apple, and the leaf is small and rather like a lemon- 
 tree. We do not know the name ; there is also an 
 extraordinary tree on the island, of which the Eng- 
 lish name is unknown to us ; the Arabs call it Kir 
 Shambu. It has pods of a foot and a half long ; they 
 
44 WANDEKINGS IN 
 
 grow in bunches, and the Arabs boil and eat them. 
 The acacias here have large pods, which are dried and 
 given to the cattle. The hedges in the pasha's gar- 
 den are of myrtle, the flowers of which, added to 
 some roses and jessamine, made a rather unusual 
 Christmas nosegay. Almost all the trees I have 
 mentioned are bearing fruit just now. 
 
 Dec. 27th. — We had a contrary wind this morn- 
 ing, but about twelve o'clock it blew as strongly in 
 the opposite direction, and away we sailed at a 
 famous rate. We were rather alarmed at the prox- 
 imity to the water's edge, which one side of the boat 
 assumed, for at some bends in the river, the wind 
 came in gusts from our right. In passing Grhizeh, 
 our yard gave a great crack, which the rais * said did 
 not matter, and would not stop to repair it, though 
 we wished to do so. 
 
 Our crew consists of a rais and twelve men : two of 
 them are Nubians ; one of them is the buffo of the 
 party, and receives extra wages for his wit. His col- 
 lection of musical instruments is unfortunately large ; 
 his name is " Aboo-el-Abeed," which means the 
 father of slaves. His voice is more wonderful than 
 I can describe ; the crew often sit round him petrified 
 
 * Captain. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 45 
 
 with delight, listening in ecstasy to the quavering of 
 his voice, as he sits performing the most extraordi- 
 nary runs, rolling his eyes, and looking much more 
 like a fiend than a human being. He is a great wag, 
 and his jokes, which we are told would shock ears 
 polite, elicit bursts of applause from his friends. 
 
46 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 CHAPTEE III. 
 
 Difficulties. — Accident. — Return to Cairo.— Shoubra.— Fresh Start. 
 — Gebel-el-Tayr. — Sioot. — Dinner Party. — Visit to Sheikh Selim. 
 
 January, 1855. — Every day fresh causes of dis- 
 comfort appeared in our boat: insects of all sorts, 
 mentionable and otherwise, annoyed us very much. 
 As soon as the candles were lighted visitors of various 
 kinds made their appearance. Spiders, with long fat 
 legs, and bodies the size of a crown piece, startled us 
 out of all propriety; huge cockroaches abounded, 
 and flew in our faces, when we made ineffectual 
 dashes at them with towels and slippers ; the smell 
 which we had perceived the first night, continued to 
 resist all our efforts to remove it; soap and water 
 were of no avail, and even whitewashing with quick- 
 lime did no good. In the cold weather we scarcely 
 perceived it, but as the heat increased it became in- 
 tolerable. We were forced to sit on deck from the 
 moment we got up, till bed-time, for our boat was 
 not habitable. My mother, soon began to feel the 
 ill effects of this kind of life, for the dew at night is 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 47 
 
 very heavy, and on the 29th of December, a very 
 severe attack of fever came on : we were at that time 
 between Benisooef and Minieh. She was dangerously 
 ill for three days, and we were extremely alarmed. 
 We heard by chance that there was a resident Euro- 
 pean doctor at Minieh ; and we therefore made as much 
 haste as possible to reach that town ; but the wind 
 was dead against us, and in spite of all our efforts 
 the progress was very small. The men tracked night 
 and day, only stopping for their meals ; they tried to 
 moderate their shouts, but the only drawback to Nile 
 travelling is the noise it entails, which is unavoidable, 
 and to an invalid very trying. 
 
 New Year's morning dawned, and found us in great 
 anxiety, for the fever was unabated. We sent Ismael 
 overland to Minieh, a distance of twenty miles, 
 hoping to get there during the day, if the wind 
 changed ; but it continued contrary, and we were not 
 much nearer our goal when the doctor arrived in a 
 boat with Ismael, about eight o'clock in the evening. 
 We were glad to see him, although mercifully all 
 danger was over. He slept on board that night, and 
 next day a fresh north wind brought us to Minieh. 
 This doctor had been placed there by Mohammed 
 Ali, six years ago, and he is heartily sick of the place. 
 He understood a little French, but could only ex- 
 
48 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 press himself in Italian ; he was so delighted at 
 spending an evening with Europeans, that he would 
 take no fee for his trouble. He said to enjoy such 
 society was " un piacer impagabile" His name is 
 Vella, he is a Maltese, and, as far as we could judge, 
 an inexperienced practitioner. His servant, Grehazi- 
 like, asked for a bakshish*, which, supposing it to be 
 the custom of the country, we gave him. 
 
 We stopped at Minieh for some hours, to have a 
 rough shed erected in front of the cabins, as a slight 
 protection against the sun ; we piled cushions be- 
 neath it, and endeavoured to make our out-of-door's 
 life comfortable. During my mother's illness all 
 musical instruments had been laid aside, and an 
 effort made at maintaining quiet; so the first day 
 she appeared on deck she thanked the men in due 
 form, through the dragoman, and as a reward for 
 their attention asked for a song ! 
 
 The discomforts of our boat, and the pernicious 
 effects of the smell, which the increasing heat of 
 the weather brought back, made us at last think of 
 returning to Cairo in search of another dahabieh, 
 and only the fear of losing the two-thirds of the 
 
 * "Bakshish" is the first word the traveller hears on entering 
 Egypt, and the last that assails his ear on leaving it ; its njeaning 
 he quickly discovers to be " a present 1 " 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 49 
 
 money already paid for our trip made us hesitate, 
 when, as we were passing Melawi at midnight, on 
 the 5th of January, our yard broke in two, and we 
 were thrown high and dry upon the sandy bank. 
 Then we hesitated no longer. Even Ismael urged 
 our returning ; he said he had warned the rais this 
 would happen, if he paid no attention to the ominous 
 crack we had heard on passing Ehoda, but he had 
 insisted on taking the risk on himself, and going on ; 
 but now he (Ismael) was sure the consul would give 
 us redress, that he would explain the matter to him, 
 that he would go " even before Said Pasha himself," 
 and have justice done us, &c. &c. . . . The rais 
 begged permission to mend the yard, and offered to 
 have a new contract made at Thebes or Sioot, to the 
 effect that if it happened again he would forfeit his 
 money, and he even offered us his head ! It was a 
 very picturesque one, but we declined it ! The re- 
 membrance of the smell was enough ; we gave orders 
 to put back. 
 
 From that time all confidence in Ismael was gone. 
 He said one thing to one person, another to another, 
 all indicative of evil intentions, and he appeared to put 
 every obstacle he could to our return. The weather 
 favoured our northward journey, and we reached Cairo 
 on the 9th. My brother wrote a letter of explana- 
 
 E 
 
50 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 tion to the consul, which we took to his house, and 
 the same afternoon he came down to inspect the boat. 
 He had unfortunately not been in a boat for twenty- 
 two years, and accordingly his knowledge of such 
 matters was very small ; but he appointed my brother 
 to meet him at the police court, at ten o'clock next 
 morning. We went first of all to the hotel, to ask 
 the advice of a gentleman who had been consul at 
 Alexandria in 1847. He recommended our getting 
 another boat immediately, leaving our case to be 
 settled in a native court, and deputing some one to 
 look after it for us ; this office Mr. L., our boat-guest 
 of Christmas day, kindly volunteered to undertake ; 
 he took up our cause very warmly, and we were as- 
 sured, on good authority, that we should get back 
 most, if not all, the prepaid sum of money. We ac- 
 cordingly informed the consul of our determination, 
 and took up our old quarters in the hotel. The con- 
 sul-general paid us a long visit this afternoon ; and 
 he, and all our friends, insisted on the immediate 
 dismissal of Ismael, who had been the sole cause of 
 all our troubles. For the last few days he had been 
 sulky and obstinate, evidently finding he was in the 
 wrong box. Our friends, one after another, gave him 
 a tremendous " blowing up." He had of course re- 
 ceived a buona mancia, from the owner of the boat, 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 51 
 
 who was an Arab merchant, and not an English 
 colonel, as he had told us. We had placed too much 
 confidence in him from the high character he bore ; 
 and I may as well observe here, how much harm tra- 
 vellers commit in not giving true characters to their 
 dragomen. They are often so carefully worded that 
 very contrary meanings may be deduced. Ismael, as 
 I before said, gave us but little choice of a boat, in- 
 forming us that they were all up the river. That 
 this was untrue I need hardly say, for we had met 
 upwards of twenty on our way down, and even now 
 there were a good many left, which were being 
 snapped up every day. The gentleman whom I 
 have denominated our boat-guest, on hearing of our 
 arrival, had kindly looked at some for us, and there 
 was one belonging to Hassaneen Effendi (the head- 
 man of the pasha's dockyard), which would have 
 suited us perfectly, but that we still hesitated about 
 leaving Cairo before our case was settled ; until, from 
 the increasing demand for travellers' boats, we were 
 obliged to run the risk, and accordingly secured the 
 dahabieh in which we now are. 
 
 We have it for 70/. to Assouan, or 751. to Wady 
 Haifa; twenty extra days are allowed for stoppages 
 and sight- seeing, and for any further time we may 
 
 E 2 
 
52 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 require we have only to pay the crew's wages, 
 amounting to five shillings a day. 
 
 We went to see the gardens at the Palace of Shoubra 
 on the 14th. A beautiful avenue of trees, planted 
 with great regularity, extends all the way from Cairo, 
 a distance of two miles. The gardens are not in such 
 order as they were in the time of Abbas Pasha, the 
 late viceroy, at least so we were informed by M. 
 de la Porte, the French Consul, whom we met here. 
 There are some beautiful kiosks in the gardens, but 
 many of them are out of repair. The head gardener 
 is a Scotchman ; the under ones are, I think, 
 Greeks. There is an attempt made to keep up a 
 menagerie, but there are few animals, and those few 
 not flourishing. 
 
 Every day shows us new instances of the way in 
 which Ismael deceived us ; we find he had been in 
 the habit of giving the crew coffee, with milk and 
 sugar, two or three times a day, so that in the fort- 
 night we had been absent, seven loaves of sugar were 
 consumed ! In looking over the stores, we found nine 
 out of twenty-four bottles of marsala missing, which 
 had been paid for, but which, as was seen from the 
 size of the caff ass* they came in, had never been 
 
 * Caffass; a basket made of split palm branches. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 53 
 
 there; and in many other ways we have discovered 
 how our confidence has been misplaced. 
 
 We went on board our new boat on the afternoon 
 of the 16th; we were joined almost immediately by 
 Mr. L., who came to tell us that Mukhan Singh, 
 our man-servant, would be wanted next day to be 
 examined at the Consulate, and to give his evidence 
 as to the inefficient way in which a medical sur- 
 vey had been made of the state of our old boat ; 
 the native authorities having sent down to see if the 
 smell was unwholesome ! The consul, who is always 
 accused of favouring the natives, neglected to send 
 any one on our part, and the matter was thus left 
 to a one-sided opinion. Mukhan, who was left on 
 board, had tried by dumb motions to explain himself, 
 but they threatened to kill him. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the kindness of our Cairene 
 friends, or the interest they all took in us. We had 
 quite a levee in our boat, three or four of them having 
 come down to take leave of us. We reached Ehoda 
 in the night, but were first detained by Mukhan's 
 summons to the Police Court, and then by my brother 
 requiring the attendance of Dr. Abbott, the English 
 (or rather, I might say, Anglo-Turkish) Esculapius at 
 Cairo ; but at half-past four o'clock in the afternoon 
 
 E 3 
 
54 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 of the 18th January, 1855, we began what will, I 
 trust, prove a more successful journey up The Nile. 
 
 I do not think the naming of a long wished for son 
 and heir could give rise to more discussion than did 
 the naming of our dahabieh. Of course first comers 
 have the best choice of names, and all the best 
 had been appropriated. — Lotus, Ibis, Isis, Pharaoh's 
 Daughter, &c. &c, had all sailed ; but at last, after 
 much deliberation, we determined to name our home 
 after that most stupendous of Egyptian idols, the 
 mighty Sphinx. 
 
 Our boat is about seventy feet long, and would 
 measure, I believe, between thirty and forty tons. 
 From stern to midships is a raised or poop cabin, 
 which is divided into several compartments. These 
 boats are rigged after a fashion peculiar to the East. 
 In the bows is an enormous latteen sail, which is swung 
 as upon a pivot on the top of a mast, forty feet in 
 height ; the yard is generally equal to the length of 
 the boat, sometimes even longer. In the stern is a 
 sail similarly adjusted, but on a much smaller scale. 
 Here is also the tiller, which the helmsman manages 
 from the top of the poop. Twelve oars, and twelve 
 poles pointed with iron, to be used in shallow water, 
 complete the equipment of our bark. The deck in 
 front of the cabins is occupied by the crew when work- 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 55 
 
 ing the boat. Below this is a shallow hold, not deep 
 enough for a man to sit erect in, where they stow 
 themselves to sleep when the night is not warm 
 enough for them to lie on deck. In this also our 
 heavy boxes and provisions are kept. There is a small 
 shed in the bows which is dignified with the name of 
 kitchen ; it contains an oven, and two or three minia- 
 ture compartments for cooking with a "thimble full" 
 of charcoal. Our private flag is a white Maltese cross, 
 on a blue ground, with quarterings of red and yellow; 
 a red ensign at the stern proclaims to all beholders 
 the fact that we are Britannia's subjects. The interior 
 arrangements are as follows: — on entering the cabins 
 you go down two steps ; to the right and left are two 
 cupboards, one to hold the filter, the other is used for 
 the crockery. The first room you come into is the 
 saloon, ten and a half feet long by eleven and a half 
 feet wide. It has a divan* on each side, and at the end 
 of each a cupboard, the tops of which are useful as 
 tables. Over them a bookshelf on each side makes 
 us very snug; the divans have presses underneath 
 them, but they are frequented by rats. We have a 
 table with a red cover, which could dine six were the 
 cabin broad enough to admit of chairs at both sides. 
 
 * A divan is a raised bench fastened to the side of the boat, piled 
 with rather hard cushions. 
 
 E 4 
 
56 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 Our supply of chairs is small — we have only two in 
 the boat ; but we have two camp stools, which, with a 
 Cairo mat, complete the furniture of our sitting room. 
 A passage leads out of the saloon ; to the right is my 
 mother's bed-room, about seven feet long and three 
 and a half wide; opposite to it is mine, the same 
 width, but a little longer ; further on to the right is 
 our maid's room, not more than six feet long ; and at 
 the end of the passage, in the stern of the boat, is my 
 brother's cabin, wider at one end than the other, and 
 larger than any of the others. The cabins are fur- 
 nished with double sets of sashes, glass and Venetian ; 
 the saloon is lighted also from the front. 
 
 Such is a very fair specimen of a dahabieh or Nile 
 boat, in which, provided the parties are in good 
 health, a great deal of comfort may be found, and a 
 pleasant home may be had in a good climate, while 
 friends in Britain are knee deep in snow. 
 
 We made the acquaintance at Shepherd's Hotel 
 of some travellers, whom I may as well mention 
 here, as we shall probably sail in their company. 
 They left Cairo the same day as we did, but passed 
 us in the night, and are now a few miles ahead. 
 Their private flag is a streamer thirty feet long. The 
 British, French, and Turkish national flags joined 
 together occupy nine feet, the rest of the flag is a blue 
 
TIIE LAND OF HAM. 57 
 
 and red streamer. It looks magnificent in the book 
 kept at Shepherd's for registering the flags ; they had 
 intended naming their boat the " Grand Alliance," 
 but in the next page to that in which they had painted 
 it, a party of eight Yankees had illuminated such a 
 gorgeous one called " The Grand Eepublic " (which 
 so completely cuts out every other), that the name of 
 u Grand Alliance" was given up. They consulted us 
 at the table-d'hote one day, as to what name they 
 could give it, and my mother proposing the " Crescent 
 and the Cross " as most appropriate, they adopted it 
 accordingly. Their party consists of four gentlemen — 
 a doctor, a lawyer, and two brothers from the North 
 of England, the younger of whom is a clergyman. 
 Their boat is rather lighter than ours, and they track 
 faster. We are just now within three hours' sail from 
 Osioot, but there is no wind. We passed Mini eh on 
 the 21st, but only stopped a minute to give the little 
 doctor a parcel of newspapers we had promised him. 
 
 This boat is most luxurious as compared with the 
 last, and we are satisfied with our present dragoman, 
 whose name is Khalil Ibrahim * ; he travelled with 
 Champollion and Eossellini, and superintended four 
 hundred workmen employed by the latter at Thebes. 
 He was recommended to us by Massara, the drago- 
 * "Khalil Ibrahim," means Abraham, the Friend of God. 
 
58 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 man to the consul-general ; he seems no favourite 
 with Mrs. Lieder, but that will not shake our con- 
 fidence in him, Ismael having been a particular friend 
 of hers, and having turned out no great treasure! 
 Khalil amuses us very much with his long stories, 
 generally related in Italian. His English is so un- 
 intelligible that we usually speak to him in the 
 former language. 
 
 We passed the Grebel ■ el-Tayr, or Mountain of the 
 Bird, on the 21st. A Coptic convent crowns the 
 summit of the precipitous cliffs, which approach close 
 to the eastern ridge of the river. A monk is kept on 
 the look-out for travellers' boats, and as soon as one 
 appears in sight he swims towards it, claiming an 
 alms from his fellow Christians. It is impossible to 
 resist the appeal of "Bakshish Hawagee,ana Christian, 
 ana Christian ;"* though one does feel rather ashamed 
 of owning any connection with them ; but I fancy 
 they seldom leave a boat without getting a few 
 piastres, which they put in their mouths and swim 
 away with ; they are also very grateful for empty 
 bottles. Khalil, to our astonishment, produced a 
 bottle of brandy from his canteen, and bestowed a 
 large quantity on the swimming monk ; we spoke to 
 
 * Alms ! oh, traveller ! (or more literally, oh, merchant !) I am 
 a Christian, I am a Christian. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 59 
 
 him afterwards about it, and told him he was not a 
 good Mussulman for drinking brandy ; he would not 
 allow this imputation, and said there was no harm in 
 it. We reminded him that it was written in his 
 Book that he was not to drink it, at which he laughed 
 and said, that the Prophet meant to forbid intoxica- 
 tion, and that there was no sin in drinking a little ; 
 that if a man loved Allah, and did not kill or rob his 
 neighbour, there was no reason he should not take a 
 little brandy with his water ; but he insisted on his 
 being a good Mussulman. We did not attempt to 
 make any further investigations into his theological 
 views, for though he may be rather latitudinarian in 
 his religious opinions, he is a good honest creature, 
 and no worse, but rather better than some of his 
 neighbours. He seems a liberal-minded man, for he 
 says the Copts are much better people than the 
 Arabs ; they ask fair prices for things, and are ver}^ 
 industrious : their only foible is a love of thieving. 
 
 He told us the other night that Mohammed prophe- 
 sied that his religion should last one thousand years, 
 and a part of another thousand, that then people 
 would turn Christians, and the end of the world 
 would come. This being the year 1271 of the Hegira, 
 all Mussulmans are looking out for this to happen, 
 and he says many are being converted to Christianity 
 
60 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 among the upper classes of Turkey ; but I fear that 
 it is Infidelity, not Christianity, which is taking the 
 place of Mohammedanism. 
 
 Jan. 27th. — Sioot, or Osioot. — We reached this 
 town, or rather the small hamlet, of El Hamra, 
 which is its port, at midnight on the 25th. This is 
 one of the places where the crew is allowed twenty- 
 four hours to bake bread. The "Crescent and the 
 Cross " had arrived a few hours before us. We left 
 our boats in company with two of their party to see 
 the Stabl Antar and other grottoes. We felt this to 
 be an epoch in our Nile life, our first time of landing 
 to explore the wonders of ancient Egypt. 
 
 Sioot is not situated close to the river, but is about 
 two miles inland ; we rode all the way on raised 
 causeways shaded by beautiful sont or mimosa trees, 
 the most graceful kind of acacias I have seen ; the 
 range of limestone hills in which the caverns are 
 situated is at a short distance from the town. These 
 grottoes or tombs do not extend far into the rock, but 
 they are lofty and of considerable size; the capitals 
 and shafts of many square columns are still existing, 
 from which the bases have either crumbled away, or 
 have suffered from the excavations of explorers. The 
 entrances to these tombs are very grand, and the 
 walls are covered with hieroglyphics and sculptures 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 61 
 
 partly defacecL (so we are informed ! ) by Lepsius, to 
 prevent future travellers copying them, and so taking 
 from him the glory of having discovered them. 
 
 One wall is covered with an army of foot soldiers 
 almost concealed by enormous shields. We found the 
 cartouche * of Amunoph III., a king who began his 
 reign five years before the death of Moses. The 
 caves are in tiers one above the other. Some in the 
 least inaccessible parts were inhabited by anchorites 
 in the early days of Christianity, when the Church 
 nourished in Egypt as it has never done since. The 
 hill was too steep and shingly to admit of our as- 
 cending it on donkeys ; they only took us as far as 
 the lowest range; we therefore climbed on foot to 
 the top, from whence the view is very extensive. It 
 is considered the second finest in the country ; a 
 rich green plain, with the beautiful Nile meandering 
 through it, was at our feet; numerous canals inter- 
 sected the landscape, looking, as an American writer 
 has expressed it, like rivers branching to and from 
 the great artery that supplies life to the country. 
 
 * The hieroglyphic names of kings are always inclosed in ovals or 
 cartouches, as 
 
 Amunoph III. 
 
62 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 It is very curious to see the wavy line made by the 
 desert, where it joins the cultivated land ; it is as 
 regular as if traced with a pencil ; the yellow sand 
 standing out in such striking contrast to the bright 
 green. "It is in fact neither the fertility of Egypt, 
 nor its commercial importance, nor even its ruins and 
 celebrity, mighty as they are, which form the charm 
 that fascinates the traveller, and reminds him that 
 he is in a land differing in appearance from every 
 other, and strikingly distinct in its culture and its 
 resources ; it is the beholding of the principles of 
 fertility and barrenness, of destruction and repro- 
 duction, of life and death, the Osiris and Typhon 
 of the Mythology, operating undisguisedly side 
 by side. On the one hand, the Nile, 'imitating 
 Heaven,' scatters life and abundance ; on the other, 
 the desert, with its poisonous blasts, its mountains of 
 shifting sands, is ever ready to be lifted up and pre- 
 cipitated upon the fruitful valley, extinguishing and 
 obliterating in a moment the labours of centuries. 
 Such are the characteristic elements of an Egyptian 
 landscape." * 
 
 The cemetery is on the verge of the desert. These 
 habitations of the dead are in much better order than 
 those of the living. Two funerals were entering it, 
 
 * St. John's Village Life in Egypt. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 63 
 
 and the shrieks of the women sounded wild and dis- 
 cordant in the distance. 
 
 Three of our boat neighbours dined with us in the 
 evening. We had unfortunately allowed our larder to 
 run short, trusting to this place to replenish it, not 
 having intended giving a party here. The conse- 
 quences may be imagined : — a dinner bought and 
 cooked (not to say killed) the same day, was discre- 
 ditable to our cuisine, and as Ali's idea of hospita- 
 lity consisted in serving up innumerable dishes, no 
 matter whether good or bad, we, who had ordered 
 a very different repast, thought that it would never 
 come to an end. It was really past a joke ; we 
 never quite forgave Ali. 
 
 Jan. 31st. — We tracked the whole of the 29th, 
 and in the evening overtook the " Crescent and 
 the Cross." Mr. W. and his brother came on board 
 and stayed till past ten. A strong wind got up 
 in the night, and continued all next day. About 
 noon it blew such a hurricane that the rais, either 
 because he did not like it, or in consideration of 
 my mother's feelings, put in at a small village called 
 Ekhmim, intending to remain till it should mo- 
 derate a little. 
 
 Our peace has been lately disturbed by perpetual 
 quarrels between Mukhan and Khalil. Between the 
 
64 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 former and our maid, fighting went on as a matter of 
 course, but lately open war has been waged by him 
 against everybody. After we had been about an 
 hour at Ekhmim he came to the saloon, asked for 
 his wages, and a "bit of paper to say that he had 
 been honest;" he said he was not happy, and in- 
 tended going ashore. We thought it was some freak, 
 and never imagined he was in earnest, so my brother 
 gave him what he wanted, and told him not to do any- 
 thing so silly. The dragoman and all the sailors tried 
 to persuade him to remain in the boat, at least till 
 we reached Grirgeh, where he could have been put 
 into the Governor's hands to send back to Cairo, but 
 he jumped on shore and rushed into the village. We 
 did not feel ourselves justified in taking him at his 
 word in this way, as it might be only prompted by a 
 fit of passion. At any rate all his goods were on 
 board, and we could not leave them on the bank in 
 his absence. Some of the men were therefore sent 
 with Khalil to bring him back, but he declared he 
 would kill the first who touched him, and would 
 then put an end to himself with a knife that he had 
 taken for the purpose. Khalil at last persuaded him 
 to come to the top of the bank, near our boat, and we 
 desired him to return on board without more ado ; 
 but he said he was no longer any man's servant, that 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 65 
 
 he was free, and could do as he chose, and that if he 
 was forced to come back he would jump overboard. 
 My mother made a last appeal to his feelings, by re- 
 minding him of his wife and family in England, whom 
 he would probably never see again if he persisted 
 in his mad resolution, but it was in vain ; we had 
 already wasted too much time and favourable wind, 
 so giving him his portmanteau, we left him. Khalil, 
 who had certainly done his best to persuade him to 
 return, recommended him to a Coptic friend of his 
 own, who promised to lodge and feed him till a boat 
 should pass to take him to Cairo ; and this morning 
 he hailed a merchant boat, and desired the rais to take 
 him on from Ekhmim, offering to pay his passage,, 
 but the rais said he would take him for nothing. 
 
 We rather suspect that the dragoman on board the 
 " Crescent and the Cross " is at the bottom of the late 
 disturbances. He is IsmaeTs brother, and therefore 
 bears us a grudge for having discharged him, Muk- 
 han spent some time with him on the night of the 
 29th, and when he came back, Khalil says he was 
 quite excited, and would not go to bed, but went and 
 sat among the sailors. The night before he had told 
 Khalil, he intended to kill " some one," which when 
 questioned about by my brother, he informed us, 
 meant any robbers if they came ; but seeing him in 
 
 F 
 
66 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 such a state of mind, Khalil slept with a large 
 kitchen knife beside him. The rais has since told us, 
 but with what truth I do not pretend to say, that 
 Mukhan, that same night, offered money to him 
 and the crew, if they would cut Khalil's throat and 
 throw him secretly overboard ! His conduct has been 
 very strange, but we hardly believe this part of it. 
 
 We had a race with the " Crescent and the Cross " 
 during yesterday's gale, and distanced them entirely ; 
 but owing to our detention at Ekhmim, they got 
 ahead of us. We are daily on the look-out for cro- 
 codiles ; they are frequently seen above Grirgeh. 
 
 February 1st — Last night we had a curious adven- 
 ture. Khalil rushed into the saloon about nine o'clock, 
 in a state of great excitement, to tell us that we had 
 just arrived at the place where a great saint, called 
 Sheikh Selim, had lived for the last thirty years with- 
 out moving. He and the crew were bent upon our 
 seeing him, and accordingly the sail was let go and 
 the dinghy ordered round. Khalil took two oranges 
 with him, and some snuff which he had brought from 
 Cairo for the purpose. The sailors took an offering 
 of bread and Latakia. They all shouted " Sheikh 
 Selim ! Sheikh Selim ! " and the excitement was tre- 
 mendous when they heard a voice answering their 
 call, and a light was kindled on the bank, at a little 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 67 
 
 distance from the river to show us the whereabouts 
 of his abode. In the meantime Khalil was instilling 
 into us due reverence for this being, who he assured 
 us had sat in a crouching posture night and day for 
 thirty years; the hyenas and crocodiles, he said, came 
 up to him, and quietly retreated at his word ; people 
 from far and near resorted to him for the cure of their 
 diseases, which his word effected, and he also informed 
 us that he never received money, but is supported by 
 the charity and piety of the people in the neighbouring 
 villages. To please Khalil we agreed to go. The 
 saint was not alone on this occasion ; there were three 
 or four men watching beside him ; there was a round 
 enclosure of doura grass and piles of reeds, in the 
 centre of which we saw a huge black mass, with a 
 great head covered with matted hair. Khalil said it 
 was white, but he allowed it was tanto sporco, that we 
 might be excused for not seeing much of its snowy 
 whiteness ! 
 
 The crew had preceded us, and were surrounding 
 him, kneeling down before him, and kissing his hand, 
 which was extended to each in turn. Khalil went 
 close to him, and made my brother touch his hand, 
 but could not warm up his piety sufficiently to in- 
 duce him to kiss it ! He certainly seemed to snub 
 Khalil, but this did not cool his ardour ; he told him 
 
 7 2 
 
68 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 his name, Khalil Ibrahim, Khalil Aboo Ibrahim ; but 
 whether from his connection with Christian travellers, 
 or from caprice, the saint appeared very cross to him. 
 He would not receive the oranges himself, but de- 
 sired them to be given to one of the men who were 
 watching with him. Khalil explained to him that 
 my brother was in search of health, and begged him to 
 prescribe for him, but he prudently forbore doing so. 
 
 My mother and I stood a little apart, not feeling 
 sure of the safety of Christian women in so august a 
 presence, but he saw us, and asked who we were. 
 Khalil explained that we were the mother and sister 
 of the Hawagee, whereupon he pronounced the mother 
 to be one of the best and most virtuous of women, 
 declaring he had seen it the moment she arrived. 
 His reverence's discrimination will be so far useful, 
 that the crew's respect for her will be increased ten- 
 fold. As soon as we thought they had enjoyed the 
 sight and contact of this creature long enough, we 
 proposed going away. Previous to this the sailors, 
 still on their knees, put up a prayer for my brother's 
 restoration to health, offering to cut off their beards 
 if he did not get well. 
 
 It was altogether as strange a scene as could well 
 be imagined. The mixture of absurdity and devotion, 
 of credulity and implicit faith was very curious. We 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 69 
 
 were afraid of betraying a smile or a doubt, for I sup- 
 pose a word from the old gentleman would have set 
 the whole crew upon us in a moment ; in fact he was 
 so like an overgrown chimpanzee himself, that we 
 thought nothing less improbable than his jumping up, 
 and giving us a good chase into the river. 
 
 After we got back to the boat, Khalil discoursed for 
 a long time about this saint, and gave us the history 
 of a great many others. We asked where he would 
 be buried when he died ; but this it seems depends 
 on his own fancy. He will in course of time disap- 
 pear (sca/ppar via, Khalil called it) and look out for 
 a place to suit himself, and there he will have a fine 
 tomb built over his remains. He tried hard to impress 
 us with proper ideas of the holiness of this Vero 
 Santo ; he expatiated upon his virtues, and dwelt 
 particularly upon the fact of his immovability, but 
 the warmer he grew, the worse his Italian became, 
 and he at last gave us up as incorrigible heretics. 
 
 F 3 
 
70 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 CHAPTEK IV. 
 
 Arrival at Thebes. — Ruins on the Western Bank. — Karnak by- 
 Moonlight. — Nile Cuisine. — Philse. — Assouan. 
 
 Feb. 3rd. — Early this morning we came in sight 
 of Thebes, and by the help of our glasses obtained a 
 clear though somewhat distant view of the Memno- 
 nium, the palace of Gournoo, the temple of Medinet 
 Aboo, and more impressively beautiful than all, the 
 Colossi — the " Pair," as Miss Martineau calls them. 
 All these are on the western bank of the river; no- 
 thing is seen of Luxor on the eastern side till you come 
 close to it, owing to a bend in the river, and still less 
 of Karnak, for it is further inland. 
 
 We anchored close under the walls of Luxor 
 Temple. Immediately after breakfast our boat ac- 
 quaintances came to offer their services to escort us 
 to the ruins on the western bank, which, in accord- 
 ance with Sir Gardner Wilkinson's advice, we de- 
 termined on first seeing. We rowed across the river 
 to where a group of donkeys were waiting to be 
 engaged, and mounting, proceeded at once to the 
 Colossi. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 71 
 
 I shall not attempt to describe them : few pens 
 could do them justice, and as to their height of sixty 
 feet, breadth, and other extraordinary dimensions, I 
 need not enter into such well-known particulars; 
 suffice it to say, that whatever conjectures we had 
 formed respecting them, we were not disappointed. 
 Their majestic attitude of perfect repose has not been 
 overstated, and their stupendous height invests them 
 with a solemnity which, at a distance especially, 
 strikes the spectator. I can hardly imagine the im- 
 pression ever wearing out which their aspect creates, — 
 majesty, — loneliness, — rest, — the greatness of the 
 past, — the littleness of the present. Such are the 
 ideas that fill the mind and thoughts on beholding 
 them. 
 
 The base of the vocal Memnon has several Greek 
 inscriptions on it, written by Herodotus, Strabo, and 
 other early travellers, stating that they had heard it 
 greet Aurora, but confessing they were at a loss to con- 
 ceive how it was effected. Its greeting now would be 
 hoarse and discordant, for its mighty chest is built 
 up with loose stones, it having suffered from the bar- 
 barity of invaders more than its colossal neighbour. 
 Our donkey-boys climbed up and struck it with flints, 
 which elicits a ringing sound, and then demanded 
 
 F 4 
 
72 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 "Bakshish" for their profane amusement. It has 
 been well remarked* that monuments, which, from 
 the frequent mention of them, seem hackneyed and 
 commonplace in books, by no means appear so when 
 actually beheld. One for the time forgets the dis- 
 sertations of the antiquarian, the measurements of 
 the mathematician, the spruce trim copy of the artist, 
 yielding up the mind to the romantic enthusiasm in- 
 spired by grand historical associations. There is an 
 indescribable pleasure derived from the contemplation 
 of the monuments of past ages, vague and shadowy, 
 composed of many mingled sentiments and feelings, 
 which must be felt to be appreciated. 
 
 Our guide next led the way to where the magnifi- 
 cent ruins of Medinet Aboo stand out from among the 
 mounds of rubbish of an ancient Christian village. 
 We had intended taking a very cursory view of this 
 as well as of the other temples, but hour after hour 
 found us exploring the wonders of this noble ruin, 
 wandering up and down the open halls, the inner 
 chambers, and numerous corridors of gigantic columns, 
 now clambering to the top to obtain a bird's-eye view 
 of the whole, and now amidst broken shafts, and 
 strange to say, baseless capitals of pillars, examining 
 
 * St. John's Village Life in Egypt. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 73 
 
 cartouches of Pharaohs who flourished two thousand 
 years before the Christian era, and who little thought 
 that the most sacred parts of their temples, raised 
 with such piety and labour, would be filled with the 
 brick and mud hovels of succeeding generations, whose 
 habitations are in their turn crumbling away, and 
 adding desolation to the ruined piles. 
 
 With the help of our guide, an old man named 
 Ahmed, whose knowledge was derived from Cham- 
 pollion and Eossellini, we deciphered the subjects of 
 some of the numerous sculptures which covered the 
 walls. The names of travellers disfigure the ruins in 
 every possible direction ; the ravages of these wanton 
 invaders are much more conspicuous than those that 
 the hand of time has alone performed. Nothing 
 offends the eye or excites other feelings than those 
 of admiration in the latter, but in the former, the 
 marks of chisels where they have defaced the hiero- 
 glyphics, or marred the faces of otherwise perfect 
 statues, are but too visible, and saddening to behold. 
 
 From Medinet Aboo we proceeded to the Memno- 
 nium or Eameseum. This temple is on a smaller 
 scale, but its proportions are most graceful, and are 
 well preserved. A gigantic figure of Kameses II., 
 overthrown in 525 B.C. by Cambyses, the Persian in- 
 vader, blocks up the entrance. The power that over- 
 
74 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 threw this ponderous mass, which weighs nearly nine 
 hundred tons, is indeed as wonderful and extraordi- 
 nary as that which brought it from Syene and erected 
 it here. It is of red granite, of a fine grain, and 
 highly polished. I measured the breadth across one 
 of the feet at the toes, — it was five feet ! Fragments 
 are hurled in all directions ; the hands are broken to 
 pieces : five feet is the width across the fingers, the 
 thumb not included ! Further on we saw the remains 
 of the black granite statue, whose head was pre- 
 sented to the British Museum by Belzoni. The rows 
 of pillars in this temple are regular and unbroken ; 
 they are twenty-one feet in circumference. 
 
 The setting sun now warned us it was time to re- 
 turn, as we proposed taking advantage of a beautiful 
 full moon to see the wonders of Karnak ; so after a 
 hasty dinner, we mounted some fresh donkeys ; our 
 guide and Khalil armed themselves with double- 
 barrelled guns, and the four gentlemen from the 
 u Crescent and the Cross" who accompanied us took 
 their revolvers. These warlike preparations, as far 
 as I could discover, had three objects — robbers, dogs, 
 and jackals. 
 
 Karnak is situated about two miles from Luxor. 
 Our road lay over a very broken plain with small 
 villages scattered here and there, whose guards of 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 75 
 
 savage dogs sprung out towards us as we passed, but 
 did not venture to follow us far, either from our 
 numbers, or from fear of trespassing on each other's 
 districts. As we approached Karnak, I thought that 
 all the descriptions I had read of it fell far short of 
 reality. An avenue of headless sphinxes leads to the 
 eastern gateway, whose equal I should think never 
 existed. As we passed under it, we felt we had in- 
 deed entered on consecrated ground ; even the dogs 
 seemed to respect the solemnity of the scene and 
 hour, and their wild howlings sounded more distant 
 as we ourselves proceeded through the ruins. We 
 soon dismissed our donkeys and climbed to the top 
 of one of the propyla or watch towers ; from this emi- 
 nence the eye wanders over a city of columns whose 
 capitals were illuminated by the silvery moon, while 
 their bases lay in impenetrable darkness. We next 
 entered the ancient hall where the senate of Osirtasen 
 sat, and no doubt planned the wondrous piles with 
 which they have surrounded their forum. The sight 
 of such magnificence must have increased their feel- 
 ings of respect for their monarchs, whose zeal and 
 piety showed itself by these unequalled monuments 
 to the gods whom they revered. No doubt the spirit 
 that prompted such undertakings must have height- 
 ened their eloquence and animated their discussions, 
 
76 WANDEKINGS IN 
 
 and who knows but these halls may have produced 
 orators, such as Greece and Kome, in their palmiest 
 days, might have emulated but never equalled ! 
 
 The moon was hardly risen high enough when we 
 passed down the centre corridor to enable its rays 
 to penetrate between the countless columns ; we 
 therefore sat down on a fallen block of stone, and 
 waited till the Queen of Heaven should shed her rays 
 more fully on those sanctuaries where she was once 
 worshipped and adored. It was a lovely night, and as 
 we sat watching the shadows as they gradually gave 
 way and disclosed fresh wonders to our gaze, I thought 
 we should never be able to tear ourselves away. The 
 guides sat a little apart ; some of the party wandered 
 to a distance, and there was nothing to break the 
 silence that reigned around. 
 
 The columns are thirty-six feet in circumference, 
 but their height is so beautifully proportioned, that 
 they do not appear heavy. It was near ten o'clock 
 when we rose and retraced our steps to where we had 
 left our donkeys. Unwilling as we were to leave the 
 temple, we were anxious to return to my brother, 
 whom we had left alone all day. Our pleasure would 
 have been much increased if he could have joined us 
 in our expeditions. 
 
 The Theban donkeys, unlike everything else in 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 77 
 
 Thebes, are in excellent condition, and as they were 
 burdened with no romantic ideas of ancient grandeur 
 and present desolation, they treated us to some very 
 spirited canters on our way back. 
 
 We had intended sailing next day, February 4th, 
 but unfortunately the wind was contrary, and too 
 strong to have tracked against, even if it had not been 
 Sunday.* Clouds of sand confined us to our boat all 
 day; but our new acquaintances joined us at eleven 
 o'clock, and the clergyman of their party read morn- 
 ing prayers in our saloon. It was not till the moon 
 had again risen over the obelisk of Luxor that the 
 wind permitted us to leave our moorings. 
 
 Feb. 6th. — We passed a southward-bound boat 
 yesterday, and as its owner was an old Cairo ac- 
 quaintance we stopped, and after a hasty greeting, 
 we committed some letters to his care. It is always 
 as well to have a letter ready written in case of an 
 opportunity occurring to send it. 
 
 We reached Esneh to-day. This is the second 
 and last place where the crew stop to bake bread. 
 It was near sunset when we went to see all that 
 remains of the temple for which this village is 
 
 * In order to make a difference on Sundays, we used not to allow 
 the men to track on that day, but if a wind sprang up we took ad- 
 vantage of it. 
 
78 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 famous. It consists of a beautiful portico of twenty- 
 four pillars, thirty feet in height and seventeen 
 in circumference; the town is on a level with, 
 and built all over the roof ; the interior has been 
 well excavated ; it is kept locked up, and is in ex- 
 cellent preservation, not on account of the pasha's 
 veneration for antiquities, but because he finds it 
 admirably suited for a granary. Being obliged to 
 remain at Esneh the whole of the 7th we returned 
 to the temple, and spent three hours sketching and 
 examining the sculptures. We admired the columns 
 very much, and found room for close inspection, 
 for the capitals are all of different patterns. The 
 only legible cartouches we found were those of 
 Thothmes III., the contemporary of Moses, and 
 those of some of the Csesars. The temple was pro- 
 bably built by the former and repaired by the latter. 
 The town is full of black people. One sees a dif- 
 ference in colour in almost every village we come to ; 
 the further south we proceed, the shades darken in 
 proportion. Flat baskets neatly plaited with split 
 palm branches are made here. Our month's provi- 
 sion of bread from Mr. Walker, the English baker at 
 Cairo, is finished ; it turned green and blue some 
 time ago, so now we have to depend upon the con- 
 coction of that article by native hands, and a very 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 79 
 
 queer kind of stuff it is. I like it, but my mother 
 declares it is sour and heavy. It is a kind of un- 
 leavened cake, of a dark brown colour, which, when 
 split and toasted, is not at all bad. Most tra- 
 vellers procure a large barrel full of loaves from 
 Walker on starting ; they require to be taken out and 
 spread on the deck two or three times a week. Some 
 Arab cooks bake very well, but Ali's first attempts 
 have not been crowned with success. The native 
 butter is — remarkable, to say the least of it! It 
 is of two sorts; that which we use at table is very 
 white and hard, but that used for kitchen purposes is 
 brought on board in a very dirty red earthenware jar 
 in a liquid state. Though my friends accuse me of 
 seeing everything en couleur de rose, I must confess 
 that we are at times forcibly reminded of its presence, 
 especially when mashed potatoes make their appear- 
 ance at the dinner table ! The milk is, to be sure, a 
 very odd_ composition ; it is thick, and of a wonder- 
 fully ghastly whiteness ; we are assured it is the pro- 
 duce of a cow, but we are pretty sure it is a buffalo 
 cow which in general supplies us. One lives princi- 
 pally on pigeons, chickens, and turkeys ; but let not 
 any one suppose these answer to articles of the same 
 name at home ; the two latter especially are " skinny, 
 ragged, tasteless, tough things," at least so says my 
 
80 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 dear mother, who though less particular than most 
 people, does not relish her boiled fowl when she has 
 heard its dying screams a few hours before # ; nor 
 does she think it appetissant to see the sheep hanging 
 before her eyes all day, albeit concealed in a bag, 
 from which the cook cuts a lump an hour or two 
 before the evening repast ! Eggs are very small, but 
 very cheap and good ; it is wonderful how fresh they 
 keep ; we buy them at the villages by the hundred, 
 and never find a bad one; they cost about a half- 
 penny a dozen ! 
 
 Feb. 8th. — About four o'clock this afternoon, as 
 we came near El Kab, Khalil announced the ap- 
 proach of two boats we had been looking out for, as 
 we had letters consigned to our care for the owner 
 of one of them. These were the " Lotus " and the 
 (( Pharaoh's Daughter, " both of which contained 
 friends of my brother, whose society, if it had not 
 been for our mishap with our first boat, we should 
 have had the pleasure of enjoying more frequently. 
 We agreed to delay our respective journeys for a few 
 hours, and accordingly moored close to each other. 
 After spending a very pleasant evening, our friends 
 kindly supplied us with game, and with some loaves 
 
 * The poultry is kept in a. caffass, or basket, on the roof of our 
 cabins. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 81 
 
 of their own baking. The proprietor of the "Lotus" 
 also made us a most acceptable present of some yeast, 
 with the help of which, it is to be hoped, Ali will shine 
 more than he has hitherto done, in his capacity of 
 baker. 
 
 Feb. 9th, — We passed Edfou early this morning, 
 but the wind being fair we did not stop to see it. 
 A gentleman evidently from the * North Countrie " 
 boarded us to-day to ask for news from Europe. We 
 had none of any consequence to give him, but the 
 next boat he meets will probably bring tidings of 
 great doings in the Crimea. 
 
 Feb. llth, Sunday. — A fine wind last night 
 brought us to Koom Ombos, and this morning before 
 breakfast my mother and I walked over the ruins 
 of a beautiful temple. It bears the cartouches of 
 Thothmes III., and of one of the Ptolemies. The latter 
 probably repaired it. The river yearly carries away 
 huge blocks of stone, and the sand from the desert 
 is encroaching, and choking up all that remains, so 
 that those who are desirous of seeing this fine ruin 
 must not delay, as in a few years still less will be 
 seen of Koom Ombos than what we explored to-day. 
 The temple is surrounded with brick walls, the re- 
 mains of a town of Eoman origin. There is a gate- 
 way dedicated to Savak, the Lord of Ombos, the 
 
 G 
 
82 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 crocodile-headed god, who was worshipped here ; this 
 gateway was built by Thothmes. The capitals of 
 the columns in the " Hall of Justice " are very per- 
 fect. They are all different, and represent the date 
 and dom-palm, the banana, lotus, and other plants. 
 
 It was here that we were first particularly struck 
 by the enormous size of the stones used in the con- 
 struction of Egyptian temples. They are often from 
 twenty to thirty feet in length, by seven or nine in 
 breadth. Koom Ombos is built entirely of sand- 
 stone. 
 
 We have been unfortunate as yet in our search for 
 crocodiles. We are daily on the look-out for them, as 
 they are often seen in this place. It is very curious 
 that divine honours should have been paid here to 
 the same animal that in other towns was treated 
 with the greatest disrespect. Sir Gardner Wilkinson 
 says when speaking of Dendera (the ancient Ten- 
 tyris), " The hatred of the Tentyrites for the crocodile 
 was the cause of serious disputes with the inhabitants 
 of Ombos, where it was worshipped ; and the unpar- 
 donable affront of killing and eating the godlike 
 animal was resented by the Ombites with all the 
 rage of a sectarian feud. No religious war was ever 
 carried on with more energetic zeal ; and the conflicts 
 of the Ombites and Tentyrites terminated in the dis- 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 83 
 
 graceful ceremony of a cannibal feast, to which (if 
 we can believe the rather doubtful authority of 
 Juvenal) the body of one who was killed in the 
 affray was doomed by his triumphant adversaries."* 
 In the City of Crocodiles, founded by King Moeris, 
 who was ferried over the Lake Mceris on the back 
 of a crocodile, there was one so sacred that Strabo 
 considered it a great honour to have seen it ; it 
 allowed the priests to touch it, in the hope no doubt 
 of touching them effectually when the opportunity 
 offered. While one of the priests opened its mouth, 
 another put in the cake, and then the meat; after 
 which some wine was poured down its throat. The 
 crocodile has no tongue, and was therefore regarded 
 as an image of the deity, " The divine reason need- 
 ing not speech, but going through still and silent 
 paths, while it administers the world with justice." 
 
 An American boat came down to Koom Ombos 
 when we were there. Three of its inmates paid us a 
 visit. They were close to us the night we broke our 
 yard in our first boat. We did not know till then 
 what a narrow escape they had had of being run 
 down by us ! They were a little in front, but had 
 stuck fast on a sandbank, off which they were vainly 
 struggling to push, when they saw our boat coming 
 
 * Sir G. Wilkinson's " Modern Egypt and Thebes." 
 G 2 
 
84 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 full sail upon them; they shouted, but our people 
 neither saw nor heard them, for the night was dark, 
 and the wind was blowing fiercely : on flew our boat, 
 making right for them, when, just as we were within 
 a few feet of them, our yard snapped in two, and we 
 were thrown with great violence on the bank, as was 
 related in its place. We were told of the peril of this 
 Yankee boat afterwards by other boats up the river, 
 and heard of it also at Cairo. 
 
 Feb. l£th. — This morning we had our first view 
 of PhiLjE. Not even Warburton's description had led 
 us to expect anything half so lovely ! The view we 
 had of it was on emerging suddenly from the bleak 
 and desolate wilderness where we had been riding for 
 five miles. I cannot give a better idea of the love- 
 liness of this sacred isle than by saying it is the spot 
 of earth on which the eye would for ever love to dwell. 
 That was my feeling on first seeing it. It was the 
 realisation of every idea of perfection and grace that 
 had ever floated through my mind. 
 
 At the end of a tortuous rocky vista, among bold 
 formless cliffs ancV mighty boulders irregularly strewn, 
 yet " fascinately fantastic " it stood, — " form in form- 
 lessness, measured sound in chaotic discord." We 
 did not land on it, but remained some time looking 
 at it from the shade of some palm trees near the 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 85 
 
 village of Mohatta. We felt that if we never saw it 
 again the impression of its delicate grace and beauty 
 would never be effaced from our minds. It was so 
 solitary, yet so majestic in its loneliness — lying, as 
 it were, on the bosom of an azure lake, the black 
 beetling crags forming a framework to the view. 
 
 We have been staying at Assouan since the 12th, 
 and have not yet been able to get hold of the " Eais 
 of the Cataract." The personage who holds this office 
 is the most important, as well as the most roguish in 
 this part of the world. He decides whether or not 
 the dahabiehs may safely ascend the rapids, and he 
 takes the responsibility on his own shoulders. There 
 is no fixed charge, and a long time is generally spent 
 in bargaining with him. His first demand is a thou- 
 sand to twelve hundred piastres, but he generally 
 comes down to four or six hundred. The price of 
 course varies with the size of the boat. 
 
 u Bookra " is always what we hear when we inquire 
 about his coming. We soon learned that " bookra " 
 is the Arabic for to-morrow. 
 
 My mother has not been well lately, and Philse, 
 which we would gladly make our daily resort, is so 
 far off that it will be impossible for her to get to it as 
 often as she would like. The weather is very hot, 
 and we are therefore always out before sunrise, for 
 
 G 3 
 
86 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 the heat is very great by eight or nine o'clock. We 
 often take a ride in the quarry beyond the town of 
 Assouan ; it is of great extent. Huge masses of red 
 granite lie about in all directions, some ready to be 
 taken away, and others half hewn, looking as if the 
 workmen had but left them for a minute, and were 
 about to return to finish their work.* The marks of 
 their tools are as distinct as if minutes, not centuries, 
 had elapsed since they were made. We saw rows of 
 holes for the wooden pegs or wedges, which, being 
 wetted, expanded and split the stone. We often 
 wondered what could be the mechanical powers known 
 to the ancient Egyptians, by which they could lift 
 and transport to such distances masses of stones such 
 as we saw lying about. It was of the granite from 
 this quarry that most of the Theban temples were 
 built. We have been twice to see a celebrated obelisk 
 which has been left unfinished, on account, as is 
 generally supposed, of a crack in the stone. 
 
 Every little coterie in the world has its own pecu- 
 liar subjects of gossip, and among the learned and 
 unlearned travellers on the Nile this "crack" is a 
 favourite topic for discussion, and an exhaustless theme 
 of conversation. Miss Martineau, or " Poet Harriet," 
 as she is familiarly styled, who prides herself on ex- 
 
 * Vide Miss Martineau's Eastern Life. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 87 
 
 amining everything more minutely than most people, 
 says there is none. There is a well made groove which 
 she says is what people call the " crack," but no one 
 with their eyes open could suppose it was made by 
 accident ; it was probably intended to fasten a rope 
 by, but with all due deference to " Poet Harriet," I 
 would humbly suggest that she has overlooked a 
 slight crack which goes right across the apex of the 
 obelisk, and which, though undiscernible at a distance, 
 may, by some fidgetty old priest, have been thought 
 reason enough for leaving the obelisk unfinished. 
 Any how there seems no other way of accounting for 
 the loss of time and labour bestowed on so fine a 
 block of granite. It is quite detached from the rock, 
 and its length, at least all that is not covered by the 
 sand, measures one hundred and three feet. 
 
 The rocks here, both in the river and in the desert, 
 are in many places covered with hieroglyphics, and on 
 a huge block of granite near our boat is inscribed the 
 cartouche of Thothmes III. We are moored just oppo- 
 site Elephantine, or Isle of Flowers, but why it is so 
 named has never been discovered. The island looks as 
 if it had been shaken by an earthquake : there are the 
 remains of some ruins, but they are very shattered, 
 and only date from the time of Alexander the Great. 
 There is a sitting figure which some children assured 
 
 G 4 
 
88 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 us was a " Hawagee Ingleez." The prettiest little girl 
 I have seen in Egypt was on this island. She was 
 about twelve years old, and was very bright and in- 
 telligent looking. The eye gets accustomed to thick 
 lips, and in a Nubian face they are counterbalanced 
 by a well formed nose, good eyes, and a pleasing ex- 
 pression, besides a peculiarly graceful figure. We 
 were much amused with her and her companions 
 imitating like so many parrots everything we said 
 to each other ; we taught them several English sen- 
 tences which they picked up very easily. Their hair 
 was saturated with castor-oil, which trickled down 
 over their shoulders, giving a fine polish to their 
 black skins. The little boys were not troubled with 
 any outward adornments, and most of the young 
 ladies wore only a leathern fringe round their waists ; 
 our little friend was less scantily clothed, but they 
 were all equally odoriferous. 
 
 We generally go out for an hour before sunset to 
 row among the rocks in the cool of the evening. It 
 is the pleasantest part of the day; the lights and 
 shadows are so beautiful. I am not sure if I could 
 say which is most splendid, cloudless sunsets, such 
 as one sees in the East, where the sun goes down in a 
 sea of gold, or those of " Northern climes, obscurely 
 bright," with their mountains of red and golden 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 89 
 
 clouds ; here the after-glow is really glorious ; every- 
 thing is so richly tinged, and every colour of the 
 rainbow is reflected from the sky upon the surface of 
 the water so vividly, that it would hardly be believed 
 at home if represented in a painting ! 
 
 The stars are splendid here, and their reflections in 
 the water look like lanterns. We see the constellation 
 of the Southern Cross every night. It is in the shape 
 of a Latin cross. It never rises high above the horizon, 
 and does not appear to so much advantage as when seen 
 further south. The thermometer ranges in our saloon 
 from 44° to 94°. It seems strange that this variation 
 of 50° in the twenty-four hours should not prove 
 hurtful to half the patients that are yearly sent to 
 Egypt from England, but I suppose there is a charm 
 in the delicious air they breathe that counteracts any 
 bad effects. The climate is indescribably perfect; 
 one feels that it is a privilege to live in it. " The 
 nights," says Mr. St. John, " are more lovely than the 
 days : descending through an atmosphere which con- 
 stantly becomes clearer in proportion as we are 
 hemmed in more closely by the desert, the moon's 
 light resembles a pale sunshine, and when the moon 
 disappears, the brilliance and lustre of the stars, many 
 of which are not visible in England, scarcely permit 
 us to regret her absence. I know not to what degree 
 
90 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 of purity the atmosphere in northern latitudes may- 
 be brought by the intense frosts of winter. Niebuhr 
 was of opinion that the stars shone more brightly in 
 Norway than in the Arabian desert ; but though the 
 cold nights of the North may also have their charms, 
 it is certain that in no European country with which 
 I am acquainted, has the firmament appeared so 
 thickly strewed with glittering fires as in these 
 almost tropical regions, where perhaps the air is no 
 less purified by the elaboration of dew, than by frost 
 in the precincts of the arctic circle." * 
 
 Feb. 1 5 th. — We were up this morning at five 
 o'clock, as we were in hopes of seeing a boat brought 
 down the Cataract. But we were not in time, Khalil 
 having been misinformed of the hour. We were kept 
 a long time waiting for our donkeys, for Lord Haddo f 
 had arrived at Philse in the night, from Nubia, and 
 the governor had ordered all the donkeys in the place 
 to be sent up for his use, a very unnecessary piece of 
 respect, as he and his son always rode on horses 
 which they had with them. He is travelling as 
 the pasha's guest, and has three boats. Eeport 
 says that everything is provided for him gratis. 
 His dragoman, janissaries, cicerones, and donkeys 
 
 * St. John's Village Life in Egypt. 
 
 f Lord Aberdeen was Premier when this was written. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 91 
 
 are all paid for by the pasha. For some days (if 
 not weeks) before he comes to any town or village, 
 the eggs, sheep, chickens, butter, and milk are seized 
 for the " Lord Ingleez," and when we poor commoners 
 arrive, we have to apply at the police court for every- 
 thing we want, and the cawasses (or officers) who have 
 previously despoiled the helpless villagers sell the pro- 
 visions to us at double price. Lord Haddo, I dare say, 
 little knows that he has the credit of swallowing from 
 four to five hundred eggs every morning for breakfast! 
 When he rides through a village, the children are not 
 allowed to call out " Bakshish," and a temple in 
 Nubia *, of which the entrance was choked up by the 
 sand, was cleared out to admit the son of Britain's 
 Grand Vizier ! 
 
 * Aboo Simbel. 
 
92 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Phike. — Descent of the Cataracts. — Desert Scenery. — Quarries of 
 Hagar Silsileh. — Bedouin Encampment. — Temple of Erment. — 
 Nile Justice. 
 
 Feb. 16th. — There are five boats here just now ; two 
 American and one Canadian, besides the "Tebe" 
 with a Scotch party consisting of a gentleman and 
 two ladies, and the "Memphis" with two Scotch 
 gentlemen, a Mr. B. from India, and a Mr. Gk, an Ox- 
 onian : the latter accompanied my mother and me 
 to Philae, where we spent the day yesterday ; the ride 
 through the desert was fearfully hot, for we did not 
 start till eight o'clock. My brother went by water with 
 Mr. B. in the dinghy. Four Nubians rowed them up, 
 and one of the pilots of the Cataract steered. They 
 took four hours coming up, and joined us in the 
 temple at Philae by twelve o'clock. This lovely spot, 
 which appears so green from a distance compared 
 with the rugged scenery around, is, when more nearly 
 inspected, a heap of ruins. The mud walls of an old 
 village entirely cover the courts, and choke up the 
 spaces between beautiful corridors and rows of pillars. 
 I think the capitals here are more perfect than any 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 93 
 
 I have yet seen, and the colouring is well preserved 
 in some of them. The adytum or innermost of the 
 sacred chambers was quite dark ; I suppose obscurity 
 added to the solemnity of the heathen rites. The 
 walls were covered with sculptures. 
 
 As Osiris was the manifestation of the goodness of 
 the Supreme Being, he was naturally identified with 
 the most obvious benefits for which the old Egyptians 
 desired to be grateful, and to them the greatest 
 benefit was the Nile. Thence arose one of their most 
 beautiful traditionary myths ; that his body was de- 
 posited in the Cataract, whence he arose once a year 
 to spread blessings over the earth. Accordingly he is 
 made to say in one of the most ancient inscriptions 
 that he is the eldest son of Time, and cousin to the 
 Day ;. and that there is no place where he has not 
 distributed benefits to mankind.* Another tradition 
 buries him in Philse, whence the most solemn oath of 
 ancient Egypt was, " By Him who sleeps in Philse." 
 
 There was a most interesting chamber nearly over 
 the western adytum, forming an upper story to the 
 Holy Place, where the sculptures on the wall represent 
 the death and resurrection of Osiris. His embalming, 
 funeral transit, reception by the spirits of Hades, and 
 final investiture as judge of the dead, are all clearly 
 
 * Wilkinson's Ancient Egyptians. 
 
94 WANDEEINGS IN 
 
 depicted. An English gentleman had taken up his 
 abode in this part of the temple. He was not at home 
 when we were there, but we saw his establishment, and 
 were much amused at the little keeper of his treasures 
 who kept guard on the top of the Pylon, a tiny Nubian 
 boy of seven or eight years of age. His distress 
 at our entrance, for fear we should take anything, was 
 quite touching, and he went before us walking back- 
 wards towards the room, apparently trying to keep us 
 from encroaching ; when we returned afterwards we 
 found a pretty little girl some years younger watching 
 with him. This was his sister ; I never saw a prettier 
 pair ; her only dress was a girdle of leathern thongs 
 and beads round her waist. As we rowed away we 
 saw the proprietor swimming home, preceded hj a man 
 carrying his clothes on his head. It is a very curious 
 sight to see this mode of crossing the river, which is 
 the only one adopted here by the natives, men, 
 women, and children ; they place a palm or rather a 
 piece of the trunk of one under them, and away they 
 go carrying their clothes on their heads. We took 
 our luncheon with us, which we ate surrounded by a 
 group of children who had swam across in hopes of 
 bakshish. The wind was disagreeably high, which 
 prevented our remaining as long as we had intended. 
 As there seems little chance of our seeing the 
 
THE LAND OF IIAM. 95 
 
 famous Cataracts of Egypt in our own dahabieh, we 
 have been recommended to look out for some one on 
 their way back from Nubia, who would kindly allow 
 us to share the pleasure of the descent with them. A 
 boat was lying off Mohatta as we passed it yesterday, 
 and seeing the union jack flying from its stern, we 
 boarded it without ceremony, and gladly accepted a 
 cordial invitation to be present when the descent 
 should be made. Its inmates consisted of a most 
 obliging Irish gentleman, his wife, and an invalid son. 
 Our ride back was very unpleasant, owing to the 
 clouds of dust which the wind blew against us. 
 
 We ordered the Nubian rowers back at six o'clock 
 this morning (Feb. 16th), intending to go up the 
 Cataract in the dinghy, but the men were not punc- 
 tual, so we set off with Mr. Gr. on donkeys. We 
 reached Mohatta a little after seven, and found our 
 new acquaintances' boat ready for starting. The 
 bank was crowded with men all in the service of the 
 Eais of the Cataract ; there seemed to be an indefinite 
 number of commanders, for orders were issuing from 
 every mouth. " It to be in the custom, in that 
 country," to use one of Khalil's favourite expressions, 
 that every one who is on board the boat going down 
 should receive a bakshish, so that many more crowd 
 into it than can be of any use. In the present 
 
96 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 instance it was crammed full of people; there was 
 hardly standing room for another person ; " Enough," 
 as its proprietor said, " to sink the boat, let alone the 
 Cataract!" We were all seated on the roof of the 
 cabins, and in the midst of a din and uproar greater 
 than I can describe, we left the moorings. Twelve 
 oars, with three or four men at each, took us speedily 
 over the first rapid, which is very slight, but in a 
 few minutes the roar of the waters, crested with foamy 
 breakers, and the rushing current announced our ap- 
 proach to the second and greatest rapid. Then came 
 the " tug of war." For a moment the Arabs were 
 hushed ; the dragoman shouted to us to keep still, 
 and hold on, as before our eyes was spread a sheet of 
 foam, and the river dashed away beneath us, the huge 
 waves breaking over each other, and over the masses 
 of granite, between which we had to make our way. 
 The moment was one of the most intense excitement, 
 — the boat seemed to pause for an instant, the rowers 
 hastily shipped their oars, and with a sudden rush we 
 were whirled down the rapid. It was now a struggle 
 between the rudder and the current ; if the former 
 gave way, it would have been all up with us; the 
 channel was very narrow, and we were apparently 
 steering right upon the frowning rocks, but next 
 moment were dexterously turned aside, and again 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 97 
 
 floated in still water. It was a scene we shall never 
 forget, and which must be seen to be appreciated. 
 There were four men at the tiller ; the whole was very 
 skilfully managed ; no water came into the cabins as 
 often happens, and it was only ankle-deep at the 
 bows. The third and last rapid of any magnitude 
 was soon passed, and when this was safely accom- 
 plished, the rais came forward to shake hands with 
 the gentlemen, who congratulated him on his success ; 
 guns were fired to announce it; the Tarrabukka was 
 struck up, and the whole crew sang and shouted till 
 we reached Assouan ; we again fired on our arrival, 
 and the boats at anchor returned our salute. We 
 had a beautiful ride at sunset to the top of one of the 
 neighbouring hills, whence we had a most glorious 
 view ; the lights over both river and desert were rich 
 and soft. A modern Nile traveller has well ob- 
 served that the sun "glares" in Europe, but that it 
 " shines " in Egypt ; its light is quite different ; with 
 us the outlines of every object appear hard and stiff, 
 but in the East, without the least haziness of atmo- 
 sphere, they seem subdued and mellowed. 
 
 Soon after our return to the boat, we saw Khalil 
 on his knees, with both hands outstretched, intently 
 gazing into the sky, at the same time muttering 
 something at an extraordinary rate. Some of the 
 
 H 
 
98 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 men were laughing at him, but the others were trying 
 to see something which evidently was only visible to 
 him. The cause of the excitement was the young 
 moon, which Khalil declared he saw quite plainly, 
 but which we could none of us perceive. He was in 
 a great state of mind at our want of discernment, but 
 continued his devotions for some minutes. It is said 
 to be great luck to see the young moon on the first or 
 second day of its appearance, and the right thing (as 
 at home) is to give one's purse a turn in one's pocket. 
 
 Feb. 17 th. — Our boat has, to use Miss Martineau's 
 expression, " lost its dignified appearance." No more 
 will the great sail flap in the wind, threatening to 
 break away altogether; nor be skilfully shifted to 
 catch the favouring gale, in a manner that shows 
 how accustomed the Arabs are to the unwieldy con- 
 trivance : our yard, the longest I have seen, has been 
 laid flat along the roof of the cabin, and forms a sup- 
 port for the awning. The little balacoon sail has 
 been brought forward, and the Maltese cross has 
 descended from its lofty position, and now floats from 
 the mast-head. 
 
 The Eais of the Cataract has come to the conclusion 
 that though our dahabieh would safely ascend, the 
 river would in the course of twenty days be too low 
 to admit of so large a boat descending the Cataract. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 99 
 
 In this case we should be in an awkward predica- 
 ment, as we should have to spend our time at Philae 
 till next inundation (a prospect which I for one 
 should much enjoy !) We are therefore reluctantly 
 obliged to give up seeing the interior of Nubia, and 
 have only brought away some of the yellow sand from 
 its frontiers, to remind us of its wonders. 
 
 I set off this morning with my mother and brother 
 at seven o'clock to go to Philse in our small boat. I 
 am very glad I went, but at the same time I must 
 acknowledge that I thought now and then we were 
 in what the Yankees would call a " fix." The part I 
 liked least, was when we were pulled by main force 
 up a rapid, by means of a very thin rope. The boat 
 was nearly in a perpendicular position, the stern, in 
 which we and the steersman sat, being almost in the 
 water. Our safety depended upon this support, and 
 as Egyptian ropes are none of the best (even our own 
 thick ones constantly breaking), it was on the whole 
 rather hazardous. The way we crossed from one 
 side to the other, was beautifully managed. We were 
 carried beyond our point by the back eddy, and then 
 dashed down and across by the current, and so gained 
 our point. We saw numbers of boys, who seemed as 
 much at home in the water as out of it, and who, for the 
 
 H 2 
 
100 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 sum of five paras *, swam down the rapids like ducks. 
 I enjoyed the coming down immensely. We came at 
 a tremendous pace, the men rowing as hard as they 
 could to steady us. Once however they paused and 
 had a sharp discussion with the steersman, as to where 
 they were to go ; the current meanwhile took the 
 matter into its own hands, and for some minutes 
 we were drifting rapidly sideways, at the imminent 
 risk of being swamped. 
 
 The Nubians are much more musical than the 
 Arabs ; our boatmen sang us some very pretty songs ; 
 one was I suppose a kind of national hymn, the 
 chorus of which was "God bless the Sultan Abdul 
 Medjid ;" they also sang the " Durwadeega" or " hen- 
 house," translated by Warburton. 
 
 We remained some hours at Philse, and then went 
 to the neighbouring island of Biggeh. The temple 
 here is a complete ruin, and a village swarming with 
 naked children covers its site. Only two columns 
 and an archway are visible among the mud huts. The 
 smell of the castor- oil on all the natives is intoler- 
 able ; the women wear their hair in a hundred little 
 plaits which they saturate with it. They are covered 
 
 * There are forty paras in a piastre ; but the smallest piece of 
 money which is coined is a five-para piece. It is about the size of a 
 farthing. There are five piastres in a shilling. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 101 
 
 with bead necklaces, and have massive silver bracelets; 
 their wrists are delicately small, and their bracelets 
 would fit but few Europeans. The men and women 
 have rings, generally made of silver, and worn on 
 the little finger of the left hand ; we saw several 
 people with nose rings, and some with ankle orna- 
 ments. In the East, women often wear all their 
 money on their persons, in strings of gold or silver 
 coins, with which they ornament their head-dresses. 
 
 We have been doctoring some of our crew for 
 ophthalmia, which is shockingly prevalent in Egypt. 
 It is most amusing to see the way Khalil takes them 
 by the neck, and holds them down on the deck, while 
 my brother drops the sulphate of zinc into their eyes. 
 If one man asks for it, two or three more are sure to 
 find out that they want some, and would be very angry 
 if refused a dose, and the more pain it gives them the 
 better pleased they are. One of our donkey boys 
 came to tell us that his mother had a bad cough, and 
 asked for some medicine. We were rather puzzled 
 what to give, but at last decided on a Dover's powder, 
 and divided one into two parts to be taken night and 
 morning ; the boy returned soon after to ask if she 
 was to swallow the paper also ! 
 
 We took a ride this evening in the rocky desert, 
 passing the ancient cemetery, which covers a great 
 
 H 3 
 
102 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 deal of ground ; nearly all the graves have head- stones 
 with Cufic* inscriptions. We also rode through the 
 town of Assouan, the ancient Syene, which is the 
 largest and, next to Sioot, the best built town in 
 Upper Egypt. Some of the doorways are very taste- 
 fully decorated. We also went along the banks of the 
 river for a little way to examine the remains of some 
 Saracenic and Koman buildings, which however are 
 uninteresting, though by the bye the latter reminded 
 us of the unfortunate Juvenal, who was banished to 
 this town, a change which, unless he was a great 
 admirer of nature, he must have found very " slow " 
 after the gaieties of a Roman court ! On our way 
 home Khalil all of a sudden exclaimed, u There it is ! 
 there it is!" and immediately began to prostrate him- 
 self, as he had done the jiight before. This time we 
 did see a faint silvery streak, to his great delight. It 
 always surprised us to see Khalil at his prayers, for 
 except on these extraordinary occasions, his devotions 
 were quite disregarded ; we one day asked him the 
 reason of this neglect, upon which he told us that the 
 Prophet excused his followers from prayer when they 
 were on a journey, but that to make up for it, he said 
 them very regularly when he was at Cairo ; we then 
 cited the example of the crew, some of whom were 
 
 * Arrow-headed letters. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 103 
 
 great prayers, but he said that a boat life was their 
 avocation, therefore they were not travellers! We 
 often noticed that those of the men who did not pray, 
 seldom or never interfered or laughed at those who 
 did. 
 
 Feb. 18th. — We had a most amusing struggle 
 this morning at six o'clock to get our donkeys. 
 They had as usual been ordered the night before, 
 but the governor desired they should all be re- 
 tained for the use of H. E. H. the Due de Brabant, 
 who has just arrived in a steamer. But Khalil was 
 determined that at least my mother should have one, 
 so he rushed off and dragged away one of them, and 
 the first thing we saw on coming out of our boat was 
 Khalil and a cawass* pulling an unfortunate donkey 
 in different directions, while a Bey, armed to the 
 teeth, was making frantic efforts to induce Khalil to 
 let go. He was therefore obliged to give in, but a 
 few minutes afterwards we met another donkey with 
 a boy on it hurrying to the steamboat. Khalil, 
 without ceremony, knocked off the boy, saddled the 
 donkey, and set off before the police could interfere. 
 It is rather hard that between " the great Lord," and 
 a Belgian Prince, we are never to get our donkeys in 
 peace. 
 
 * Police officer. 
 h 4 
 
104 WANDEKINGS IN 
 
 Feb. 19th. — We had intended taking our last look 
 at Philae to-day, but the Due de Brabant wished 
 to do the same, so we decided that our latest remi- 
 niscences of the Holy Island should not be associated 
 with preparations for a royal dinner, saucepans and 
 coffee-pots strewing the sacred precincts, and half a 
 hundred dirty-looking Belgians intent on their grub, 
 discussing chickens and turkeys among the ruins. 
 The island was really not large enough for His Koyal 
 Highness and us. We therefore determined on start- 
 ing. The boards were accordingly taken up to allow 
 the rowers to sit, the twelve oars were adjusted, and 
 off we went. We all mounted on the top of the 
 cabins to obtain a good view of the lovely approach 
 to Assouan, which we had not seen before, as it was 
 dark on our arrival. It is without exception the 
 finest scenery I have seen in Egypt. The wind how- 
 ever got up to such a gale that in three hours we 
 had not made three miles, and the rolling of the boat 
 was so bad as to compel our maid to lie down with 
 sickness, so after a discussion we gave the order to 
 return ! The faces of the crew were worth seeing ; 
 they evidently thought we were mad, but with 
 true oriental submission they cried out, Yallah ! 
 Wallah ! put up the little balacoon sail, left off row- 
 ing, and turned back ; so we had them all summoned 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 105 
 
 to the cabin door, and my brother gave them some 
 bakshish for their morning's trouble in rowing. All 
 was then joy and hilarity ; they were most grateful ; 
 assured us they had had no trouble ; that the haivagee 
 and the sitt were always right, and if they thought it 
 right to turn and return a hundred times, it would 
 be their pleasure to do it, &c. &c., and then pour 
 comble de joie they seized their dreadful tarrabukka, 
 and all joined in song till we got to Assouan. There 
 was a great laugh among all the boat's crews and 
 people on shore when we landed, but we were very 
 glad to find ourselves again in this pretty place. We 
 paid some visits to-day to our boat acquaintances, 
 and in the afternoon as the wind moderated we rowed 
 round Elephantine. The west side is very pretty, 
 and well worth a visit. 
 
 Feb, 20th. — It was with great regret that we 
 last night gave orders for starting. Assouan is the 
 most delightful place we have seen on the Nile, and 
 we were beginning to feel ourselves quite at home 
 there. 
 
 We arrived at Koom Ombos about half-past seven 
 this morning. We found the " Memphis " had ar- 
 rived there only three hours before us, I made a 
 sketch of the temple, but we did not remain long, as 
 we had examined the ruins on our way up. A gale 
 
106 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 of wind sprang up before we had proceeded half a 
 dozen miles, which obliged us to moor. I went on 
 shore at sunset, and strolled about for some time in the 
 desert, to the amazement of Nimri (one of the boat- 
 men), who followed me at a respectful distance armed 
 with a long club, and who no doubt wondered what 
 the " sitt sogheiyer" * meant to do. The scenery 
 was wild and strange ; no signs of living creatures, ex- 
 cept the occasional tracks of hyenas, "and the bleached 
 bones of camels. The sand-hills are strewn with 
 shingle, and the sand itself seems made of pounded 
 pebbles. I picked up several stones ; one of them was 
 an onyx. 
 
 We have been very dull to-day, and feel as if in 
 leaving Assouan we had left all we cared for behind 
 us. Our Nile voyage seems at an end, and instead of 
 looking forward to see what progress we are making, 
 and what new places we are passing, familiar objects 
 meet our eyes. Murray's invaluable hand-book has 
 to be read backwards, and everything reminds us we 
 are turning back. The Belgian Prince's steamboat 
 whizzed past us this morning, so fast that His Royal 
 Highness had hardly time to reply to our salutations, 
 but he acknowledged them most graciously. We 
 
 * Or " small lady." The word " small " in Arabic is compounded of 
 all sorts of unpronounceable letters: this is the nearest approach to it. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 107 
 
 dipped our colours three times, a performance our 
 boatmen seemed not to understand. One of our 
 men, who had taken French leave from Assouan, is ill, 
 and has sent a quiet-looking Nubian named Hossein 
 to take his place. 
 
 Feb. 22nd. — We reached Hagar Silsileh early 
 yesterday morning, and proceeded to inspect the 
 grottoes on the east side of the river. There are 
 several of them, but they do not extend far into the 
 rock. We walked over some very stony ground for 
 upwards of half a mile, and at last came upon the 
 substructions of a temple which has never been com- 
 pleted. This was the most ancient kind of archi- 
 tecture; they began at the gateway and continued 
 hollowing out the temple from the solid rock. Near 
 it is a large upright pillar of stone from which the 
 place derives its name. Tradition says that once 
 upon a time a king stopped the navigation of the 
 river by fastening a chain from this stone to one on 
 the opposite side. We met a wild-looking Bedouin 
 here, with a gun slung over his shoulder ; we bought 
 a couple of rabbits which he had just shot. We 
 crossed over in our dinghy to see the quarries on the 
 western bank. They are most extraordinary, and im- 
 press one more with the magnitude of the Egyptian 
 temples than even the sight of the buildings them- 
 
108 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 selves. The sandstone looks as if it had been cut 
 with a knife. We walked through narrow streets cut 
 in the solid rock, the walls on each side rising up- 
 wards of a hundred feet. The principal quarry is a 
 large square, in which are huge blocks lying about, 
 many of them hewn and ready for removal. 
 
 We arrived at Edfou after dark. It was such a 
 delicious night that I strolled about the bank of the 
 river for some time, but did not venture near the 
 town for fear of the dogs. At six next morning my 
 mother and I took donkeys to ride to the temple. 
 The propyla and first court are all that remain ; the 
 rest having been built upon and buried in rubbish. 
 There are three rows of figures upon the propylon, 
 the faces of which are very fine ; we mounted one 
 hundred and fifty steps which brought us to the top 
 of the roof, from whence the view is most exten- 
 sive. The propyla contained three stories of empty 
 and unsculptured rooms ; we did not stay long, but I 
 took a hasty sketch of the court. There is a smaller 
 temple near this, of which only the top of the gate- 
 way is seen above the sand. Edfou, which is about a 
 mile from the river, is surrounded by traces of an 
 ancient town. On our way there we saw a Bedouin 
 encampment. I was disappointed with the appear- 
 ance of these noted wanderers, though it was unfair 
 
TEE LAND OF HAM. ] 09 
 
 to judge of them by these specimens, for they are said 
 to be quite out of their element in the neighbourhood 
 of a town. The men were hanging listlessly about 
 the tent-doors, the women were very plain, and 
 the children, who persecuted us with demands for 
 bakshish, very dirty. There were some camels and 
 asses tethered near the tents, which, with a num- 
 ber of dogs who greeted us most fiercely as we passed, 
 completed the establishment. 
 
 At El Kab, which we reached in the middle of the 
 day, there are some very curious grottoes, the most 
 perfect I have seen. The walls, of which the colours 
 are very fresh, represent the agricultural and do- 
 mestic life of the person whose tomb it is ; they have 
 been all more or less defaced by travellers, who have 
 sliced the painting from parts of the walls and roofs. 
 El Kab once possessed a temple, the site of which is 
 now only marked by a few scattered stones that have 
 escaped the clutches of the pashas of Egypt, for 
 whose cotton manufactories this once fine ruin has 
 been completely destroyed. The precincts of the 
 ancient town are surrounded by a wall some feet 
 thick, parts of which remain. 
 
 We saw a crocodile for the first time to-day. It 
 was an enormous creature about twenty feet long ; it 
 lay basking on a sand-bank in the sun, but a bullet 
 
110 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 sent whizzing over its head made it waddle into the 
 water ; an American traveller has named it " a blight 
 upon the beauty of the Nile." 
 
 Feb. 23rd. — We passed the best part of last night 
 aground on a sand-bank near Esneh where we did 
 not land, as we had already spent a day there on our 
 upward journey. We reached Erment at ten o'clock 
 this morning. There are the remains of a compara- 
 tively modern temple, of which however very little is 
 to be seen, for the greater part has been (as usual) 
 taken for the pasha's manufactories. The modern 
 Egyptian feels neither veneration nor interest for the 
 noble ruins that cover his land. This temple was 
 built by Cleopatra in honour of the birth of Csesarion, 
 who is represented sitting on her knee, making offer- 
 ings to the gods. There is but a group of columns, 
 with the walls of a court, and two interior cham- 
 bers ; all evidently of a late Ptolemaic date, but to 
 the unlearned they possess great charms, and are 
 both graceful and pleasing. The sun being intensely 
 hot, with not a breath of air to temper its heat, we 
 expected to find the coolness of the afternoon refresh- 
 ing, but were wofully disappointed, for our olfactory 
 nerves were tried with many various odours, but none 
 of sanctity. Torches were lighted and we proceeded 
 to make an inspection of the sculptures, but it was 
 
THE LA^D OF HAM. Ill 
 
 too much for human nature; we beat a rapid and 
 undignified retreat, preferring the scorching sun to 
 the Holy of Holies of Queen Cleopatra. The fea- 
 tures of " the most sweet queen " are small ; the 
 nose, which seems to mark the likeness, in defiance 
 of all known laws of beauty, is neither aquiline nor 
 Grecian, but positively savours of the Celestial ! We 
 rode back to our boats, over a burning shadeless 
 plain, and in the middle of the day reached Thebes. 
 I went immediately on our arrival with Khalil to the 
 consul's to look for our letters, and found twenty-six 
 awaiting us ! besides a number of newspapers. The 
 consul, whose name is Mustapha Agha, thinks him- 
 self a very great man ; he is an Arab, and can speak 
 a little English, but neither reads nor writes it. He 
 is not paid for his services, but being under the pro- 
 tection of the British flag, is exempt from all taxes, 
 which makes his situation very enviable. He has 
 charge of all the letters, &c. sent to travellers, and is 
 very careful and civil. Whenever I went to his 
 house, even with a message or a letter, he would not 
 hear of my leaving it without first taking a cup of 
 coffee. 
 
 We have had a row with our rais. He is con- 
 tinually disobeying orders, when given by Khalil ; so 
 to frighten him, we had him taken by two cawasses 
 
112 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 to the consul, who ordered him four hundred lashes 
 with the koorbash ; my mother had previously given 
 orders that he should only be reprimanded, but of 
 course a little scene had to be got up. Accordingly a 
 cawass came to announce the approach of the " Koon- 
 sool Ingleez," and a few minutes afterwards he was 
 ushered on board with great ceremony, the men all 
 standing up to receive him, and Khalil salaaming to 
 the ground. He was then admitted into the saloon, 
 and pipes and coffee were handed round. A few com- 
 mon-places followed : — he inquired how we liked our 
 boat, offered to send down an arm-chair he had to my 
 brother, in which, he said, the men could carry him, 
 complimented him on his knowledge of Arabic, and 
 then saying to my mother, "You to be sorry if the 
 rais, he to be beat," rose and took his leave. The 
 wretched rais, who had been hovering about the boat 
 awaiting the end of this solemn conference, was now 
 summoned, and was officially informed that in com- 
 pliance with the sift's wish he was to remain un- 
 punished ; an announcement which elicited a burst 
 of gratitude, and an indefinite number of promises of 
 good behaviour; we are however assured that it is 
 foolish to let them off, as they attribute the in- 
 dulgence to fear rather than to kindness*; but I 
 
 * The discipline of the stick, though very ancient, highly neces- 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 113 
 
 must confess that the majestic demeanour and good 
 looks of Eais Sheriff, had quite won our hearts in 
 spite of his disregard of orders, and really if his 
 well-formed feet and ankles had been cut and swollen 
 with the bastinado, we should have been obliged to 
 bathe them with arnica ! an operation we had per- 
 formed on one or two of the crew whose hands 
 had been hurt by rowing. 
 
 sary, and perfectly well understood in Egypt, revolts, at first, one's 
 English principles. The truth is, that the bastinado was found in- 
 dispensable by the ancient Egyptians ; the subjects of Rameses the 
 Great took the stick to their refractory wives, and so do the modera 
 Arabs. It is not easy to eradicate the habits of ages, and it is a sad 
 fact that nothing can be done without it. — The Nile Boat, by 
 Bartlett. 
 
114 WANDEHINGS IN 
 
 CHAPTEK VI 
 
 Thebes. 
 
 One week has been passed in Thebes. For one 
 week, never to be forgotten, have we lived in the 
 world of the ancient Egyptians, and explored their 
 haunts, wandered through their now ruined temples, 
 and made ourselves acquainted with their sacred 
 precincts and religious customs, their deities, their 
 offerings, and their votaries. 
 We have gazed upon their 
 
 " Temples, palaces, and piles stupendous, 
 Of which the very ruins are tremendous." 
 
 Their halls of columns, their massive gateways, their 
 pyla and propyla, their adytum and dromos, have 
 become " familiar in our mouths as household words." 
 
 We have followed them from their temples to 
 their graves, and gazed with wonder and admiration 
 on those eternal monuments of their greatness, the 
 tombs which they erected that posterity might know 
 their power, and nations then unheard of might 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 115 
 
 marvel at their resources ! Nor should these dwell- 
 ings of the Royal dead be approached without feelings 
 of respect for their inmates. No incongruous mix- 
 ture of good and bad entered these sacred abodes. 
 Each corpse was tried by the then existing code of 
 right and wrong ; and if the life of the deceased did 
 not come up to the standard of morality, if he had 
 not acted in conformity with the requirements of his 
 religion, and his country's laws, an honourable se- 
 pulture was denied him, and his greatness and his 
 riches were of no avail in the eyes of the judges of 
 the sepulchral chambers. 
 
 On the 24th of February we spent three hours 
 before breakfast at Karnak, and carefully examined a 
 portion of the ruins. There are four grand entrances 
 nearly answering to the four points of the compass, 
 besides several lesser ones in different parts of the 
 building. The finest of them all is the eastern gate- 
 way. After passing between the propyla, which 
 are covered with sculptures, an avenue of mutilated 
 sphinxes leads towards the temple, where two pairs of 
 obelisks formerly stood ; now one of each is broken, 
 and the fragments obstruct the entrance. The grand 
 hall of columns, one hundred and thirty-four in num- 
 ber, is next entered, and it in turn opens upon the 
 hall of justice, where a solitary column stands erect 
 
 12 
 
116 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 among its fallen companions which are shattered from 
 their bases, and look like pillars of millstones care- 
 fully overthrown! The propyla of the western en- 
 trance are beyond this. Such a thing as a blank 
 wall was unknown in ancient Egypt ; no stone was 
 too small to bear a cartouche, and the largest surface 
 bore record to the fame or piety of its builder. 
 
 Karnak is of every date from Osirtasen I. to Cleo- 
 patra. Every sovereign in succession added a pylon, 
 a court, or at the least a row of columns, to enroll his 
 name in the immortal work. Many hours did we 
 linger in these ruined piles, "Murray" in hand, 
 striving to see all that we were told was there, but 
 it takes more than a week to " do " Thebes, and many 
 weeks might be profitably spent in the all-engrossing 
 work ; but for the time-governed traveller there is no 
 pleasure greater than to wander alone heedless of 
 guides or handbooks, and let his imagination run 
 wild among these monuments of human greatness. 
 His first wonder on entering Thebes is, how were 
 these gigantic piles overthrown, but his next idea 
 is, how has so much escaped destruction ? We were 
 much struck in this as in other temples, at the 
 manner in which huge half-fallen blocks of stone were 
 supported. Some appeared really to hang in the air, 
 and looked as if a touch would send them over, but 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 117 
 
 there they have stood for ages and will stand for ages 
 to come, if the world lasts as long. 
 
 We were up at five every day during our stay at 
 Thebes, and after a cup of coffee and a rusk, we set 
 off on our temple hunting, which lasted till half-past 
 nine, when we returned to breakfast. The heat was 
 very great during the middle of the day, but if there 
 was nothing particular to do, I generally managed to 
 crawl back to Karnak, and in some shady corner, or 
 with a donkey-boy holding an umbrella over my head, 
 tried to sketch what was almost unsketchable. 
 
 We found the " Memphis " at Thebes on our ar- 
 rival, and were almost always accompanied by Mr. Gr. 
 in our expeditions. His companion often remained 
 with my brother, and they both generally spent the 
 evening on board the " Sphinx." 
 
 The prettiest view we had of Luxor Temple was 
 at sunset on the 24th. We had ridden some way 
 inland, and on returning saw the corridor of pillars 
 standing out in bold relief against the golden sky. 
 Luxor, to be appreciated, must be seen from a dis- 
 tance. We went one morning to examine the in- 
 terior, but all the enthusiasm we could muster did 
 not counterbalance the impression left on us by the 
 view of the horribly unclean state it is in. Suffice 
 it to say that, with the exception of a small portion 
 
 I 3 
 
118 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 cleared out by a Frenchman, who has built his house 
 on the roof, an Arab village with all its appurtenances 
 of savage dogs, squalling children, begging women, 
 and dirty men, &c. &c. are crowded within it. Their 
 huts are plastered round the pillars, and their buf- 
 faloes and asses crouch with them under the lofty 
 roofs! In a square enclosure, a school of about 
 thirty children were performing their tasks with 
 double the noise of their fellow-learners in England, 
 for here in learning, they all read or rather chaunt 
 their lessons aloud. The schoolmaster, who was 
 sitting at one end of the room on a divan, was 
 pointed out to us; we were surprised to find him 
 old and blind. How he kept up his authority I do 
 not know, for I saw no instruments of punishment 
 lying about. His scholars were anything but or- 
 derly ; they rushed up to us, holding out their 
 slates, and clamorously demanding bakshish. Their 
 slates were thin sheets of tin, on which they wrote 
 with reed pens and thick ink. Egyptian ink is 
 very different from ours. They use it for seals in- 
 stead of wax. A dab of it is put on the paper 
 and the seal is pressed down on it. Everybody 
 wears a silver seal with his name engraved upon 
 it, and "setting one's seal" to a paper, is equiva- 
 lent to signing the name. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 119 
 
 On the morning of the 26th we left our boats 
 about half-past five accompanied by Mr. Gk, and 
 crossing the river took donkeys and set off to see 
 the Tombs of the Kings. 
 
 The sun rose as a turn in the road brought us 
 near the "Pair" (the "Pair" with a big P, as a 
 facetious friend called them). There sat the Vocal 
 Memnon and his brother giant, viewing the rising 
 sun, as they had done for ages. There they sat 
 in an attitude of perfect repose, while the morning 
 beams lighted up the huge blocks, on which (in 
 the distance) I fancied I could trace the features 
 which the cruel hand of conquerors had defaced. 
 
 There they sat- — supreme and solitary — the guar- 
 dians of the fertile vale — their backs towards the 
 sandy plain and towering mountains, their faces 
 towards the river whose rise and fall brought 
 plenty to the land that owned them as pro- 
 tectors. Once was honour paid them, once did the 
 people sing their praises, and nations erected temples 
 to their honour, and then as each returning sun first 
 lighted up the face of nature, a peal of music ushered 
 in the day, and sounding over the plain, may 
 perhaps have been answered in the surrounding 
 Temples. Now, all was silence, — and as we pursued 
 our ride no sounds greeted our ears, but all was still 
 
 I 4 
 
120 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 save the bronze figures in the fields, who saluted us 
 with the national cry of bakshish ! We had become 
 callous to the appeal, and indeed began to believe it 
 was the Arab's way of saying good-morning, and 
 sometimes held out our hands, and called out bakshish 
 in reply. 
 
 We went to the palace-temple of Grournoo ; it is a 
 fine building, but we did not pay it the attention it 
 deserved ; for we hastily surveyed it and then pro- 
 ceeded to the grand object of the day. 
 
 The road we followed was the same that was 
 
 made by the ancients for the conveyance of royal 
 
 corpses to their resting places. It was very broad, 
 
 and in some places cut through the solid rock. We 
 
 could imagine how different the lonely valley must 
 
 have looked when a long procession was winding 
 
 through it, as a mighty monarch was borne to his 
 
 grave with all 
 
 " The pride of heraldry, the pomp of power, 
 And all that beauty, all that wealth e'er gave ; " 
 
 the train of priests, and high priests, the hired 
 mourners, the royal relatives, the sacred bull, the 
 animals for sacrifice, the war chariots and warriors, 
 perhaps the captives made prisoners by the deceased, 
 and now serving to swell the pomp of his funeral ; 
 the banners taken by him in battle, and the royal 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 121 
 
 standard of Ancient Egypt, enlivening the procession, 
 and adding their brilliant colours to the gorgeous 
 pageantry. 
 
 Now, — an English gentleman and two ladies 
 donkey ed * quietly along this sacred road, and a 
 dragoman and two donkey boys formed their imposing 
 suite. It was enough to make the dead kings rise up 
 to protest against the sacrilege. 
 
 After an hour's ride, a turn in the road brought us 
 to a chasm in the rocks, a broad ravine, where preci- 
 pices hemmed us in on every side, and seemed to shut 
 out the world from the city of the dead. Here kings 
 who had lived secluded in their life time, might now 
 " lie in glory, every one in his own house ; " the mag- 
 nificence of their palaces followed them to their tombs, 
 and riches were lavished with an unsparing hand to 
 make these resting places worthy of their illustrious 
 guests. Sir Gardner Wilkinson has numbered them 
 in reference to his well known work ; there are 
 forty-seven in all. We began exploring the tomb 
 known by the name of Belzoni's, in which Osirei was 
 buried. Fresh wonders met us on every side ; after 
 descending a flight of steps cut in the rock, we found 
 ourselves at the entrance of a suite of lofty chambers, 
 
 * I do not remember if Johnson recognises this verb, but it is in 
 common use in Egypt. 
 
122 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 richly decorated with sculptures and hieroglyphics 
 painted in colours so vivid and glowing, that one 
 needs almost to touch them, to persuade oneself they 
 are not wet from the artist's brush. Massive square 
 columns seem to support the roof, but are in reality 
 part of the solid rock. A splendid effect was pro- 
 duced by a bundle of dhoura grass, brought for the 
 purpose, being set fire to ; it lighted up the tomb, and 
 as far as we could see hall after hall seemed to extend 
 in every direction. The sculptures are most extra- 
 ordinary and inexplicable. They present the king in 
 every action of his life, from his birth to his grave, 
 and beyond his grave into Amenti, or the unseen 
 world, where in company with other souls he is 
 brought to the judgment seat of Osirei, and the sentence 
 being favourable he is admitted to the company of the 
 gods ; but on one wall we saw a " hopeless looking pig 
 with a bristling back seated in a boat the stern of which 
 was towards the heavenly regions. Two monkeys were 
 with it, one at the bow, and the other whipping the 
 pig. This was a wicked soul sent back to earth under 
 the conduct of the agents of Thoth.* The busy and 
 gleeful look of the monkeys and the humbled aspect 
 of the pig were powerfully given. This was the 
 lowest state of the punished soul, but it would have 
 
 * The god of letters, and recorder of human actions. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 123 
 
 to pass through some mournful ones, and for a very- 
 long time, — to be probably a wolf, a scorpion, or a 
 kite or some other odious creature in weary suc- 
 cession, for a term of from three to ten thousand 
 years. This was called passing through its ' orbit of 
 necessity.' "* 
 
 A perusal of the able work from which I have 
 taken this description of a wicked soul, is calculated 
 to awaken in the mind Pythagorean ideas, for one is 
 tempted to believe that the writer who seems so con- 
 versant with the gods and all belonging to them, 
 must have lived on earth some thousand years ago, 
 perhaps in the form of a learned priest well versed 
 in the mysteries of his religion ! 
 
 Some of the inner chambers in this tomb are un- 
 finished, and though no doubt this circumstance was 
 a cause of regret to the Proprietor, (or rather to his 
 friends, who however were not allowed to complete it;) 
 to us it is a fortunate coincidence, for we see the art 
 of sculpturing in all its stages. It appears that the 
 design was first sketched in black chalk, and then 
 corrections were made in red by a master's hand ; the 
 drawings were well and boldly executed, and showed 
 a great deal of talent. The subjects are most mar- 
 vellous, and to us quite unintelligible. Gigantic 
 
 * Eastern Life, by Miss Martineau. 
 
124 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 serpents, painted of a light green colour, with two 
 human heads at one end, and three of their own at 
 the other, and with two pair of feet walking different 
 ways, encircle the ceilings of some of the halls ; 
 gods of every kind, sort, and description, crocodile- 
 headed, fox-headed, hawk-headed, cow-headed, be- 
 sides a variety of others ; kings fighting, feasting, 
 praying, judging and being judged, processions of 
 animals led to sacrifice, boats, carriages, horses, cows, 
 &c, all are distinctly visible in glowing colours, as 
 fresh as if they had been painted yesterday. The 
 hieroglyphics are more perfect in this tomb than in 
 any I have seen ; some are in intaglio, and others in 
 relief, but all coloured. At the furthest end of the 
 innermost hall stands the sarcophagus of the owner 
 of the spacious mansion ; but no king is there ; 
 they are in the museums of Berlin, London, and 
 Paris ; only their coffins are left ; they were too pon- 
 derous to take away ; how they got there is a mys- 
 tery that will never be solved ! They are of granite 
 some inches thick, and are strange to say broken ! 
 We went into several other tombs, but they are none 
 as fine as that of Osirei ; the most remarkable was 
 one discovered by Bruce the traveller, and generally 
 called the Harper's Tomb. Its owner was a Barneses. It 
 is on a different plan from the others. After descending 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 125 
 
 some way into the earth, we found ourselves in a long 
 passage on both sides of which was a row of small 
 chambers, representing the domestic life of the great 
 king. In one we saw the cooking apparatus, in an- 
 other his household furniture, in a third his garden, 
 in a fourth his armoury, in a fifth his boats, and so 
 on. In the last, which is very much defaced, he 
 is seated at a feast, at which the two harpers are 
 performing whom Bruce declared to be blind, but 
 whether they are so or not is a question that cannot 
 he determined now, for very little of them remains. 
 
 We left the tombs about twelve o'clock, but 
 instead of returning by Grournoo, we came over the 
 hills that rise perpendicularly from the plain below. 
 The winding path we followed to reach the top of 
 these cliffs was in some places very dangerous. A 
 false step on the donkey's part would have precipi- 
 tated us many hundred feet. It was very fatiguing, 
 for the ascent though gradual was very steep. The 
 view of the river from the summit of these cliffs, 
 with the rich country below studded with ruins, is 
 most grand. The foreground of arid rocks stands 
 out in striking contrast to the bright green beneath ; 
 at our feet was the Memnonium, whose graceful sym- 
 metry was well seen from the height we were above 
 it. To the left lay Grournoo, to the right Medinet 
 
126 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 Aboo, and solitary in the fertile plain sat the " Pair." 
 Straight across the river, was the Temple of Luxor, 
 and to the north, towering over the palms, were seen 
 the propyla and obelisks of Karnak. The whole view 
 was bounded by the distant chain of Arabian hills, 
 five days' journey beyond which was the Eed Sea! 
 It was a glorious view, worthy the pencil of a Turner 
 or a Claude. 
 
 A tomb has been lately opened on the eastern 
 side of these hills ; we therefore turned aside to see 
 it. We had been warned that it was in great dis- 
 order, but we little expected the horrible sight that 
 met our view. Skeletons and fractions of skeletons 
 lay scattered about in all directions; skulls on one 
 side, legs and arms on the other; bodies half un- 
 rolled and limbs tossed about were strewed round the 
 entrance. We slid down a bank of sand and rubbish 
 and crept through a hole into a spacious chamber, 
 where the scene was if possible more disgusting ! 
 
 The paintings on the walls were fine, the sculp- 
 tures unmutilated, but how could we examine or 
 admire them, when at every step we trod upon 
 human bodies, and the yielding beneath our feet told 
 us we were trampling on our fellow- creatures ! 
 
 Yes ! it is impossible to forget when seen in their 
 proper place, (perhaps not when stuck up against the 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 127 
 
 walls of a museum) that these mummied corpses once 
 lived and felt as we do, once had souls inhabiting 
 those crumbling frames, for which reason alone one 
 shudders at the thought of desecrating their graves 
 in this way. 
 
 The bodies had been rifled by the Arabs in search 
 of necklaces and rings which are found in great 
 quantities. Many hands and feet had been broken 
 off that strangers might carry to their homes speci- 
 mens of these ancient people, who little expected 
 that their limbs would be bargained for fifty cen- 
 turies after their decease ! We next proceeded to the 
 temple of Medinet Aboo, and were glad of a rest 
 under the cool shade of the pillars. A young Ame- 
 rican is living there with his mother for his health, 
 and is employing himself in excavating some of the 
 buried colossal figures. 
 
 On our way back to the river we met a large party 
 of our Scotch and Irish boat-neighbours, just setting 
 off for a ride, so I turned back and joined them. We 
 went first to the " Pair," then to the Memnonium, 
 and back to Medinet Aboo. The pleasure of temple 
 visiting is much lessened by going with a large party; 
 indeed it amused me to see how very little anybody 
 saw of anything, to the dismay of old Ahmed the 
 guide, who could hardly get one attentive listener ! 
 
128 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 I should not have cared to go, but that I was never 
 tired of riding over the plain of Thebes, and fixing 
 all the localities more clearly in my mind. 
 
 I was tired with the day's work when I got home, 
 having been out thirteen hours, and a small luncheon 
 eaten on a sarcophagus at eleven o'clock having been 
 our only refreshment. However, when I reached the 
 boat, instead of eating any dinner I smoked some 
 pipes, and had some coffee in the eastern style, 
 which was infinitely more invigorating than a dinner 
 a Vanglaise! 
 
 I spent some hours next day at Karnak, and in the 
 afternoon had a ride upon a dromedary ! Three had 
 been ordered, the ladies of the " Tebe " having agreed 
 to go with me, but some mistake had been made, and 
 the Sheikh of the Bedouins only sent one. It was a 
 pretty creature, with a less sulky expression than 
 most of them have. The difference between a 
 dromedary and a camel is about the same as between 
 a riding-horse and a cart-horse in England. The 
 saddle we had was made of wood, with a peg before 
 and behind ; the former we used as a pummel. Over 
 all was thrown a cloth with a long fringe, and at 
 the top of this a sheepskin, to which we added 
 some shawls. As only one could be procured, we 
 agreed to " ride and tie ; " accordingly I was first 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 129 
 
 mounted, and the others took donkeys. Keeping 
 one's seat when the dromedary is rising up or lying 
 down is rather difficult. There are three jerks (cor- 
 responding to the three joints in the leg), two back 
 and one forwards, during which time I held on by 
 the pummels. The only bridle was a cord fastened 
 to a ring in its nose, which at first I begged the 
 driver to keep in his own hand ; but he informed me 
 I must hold it in case it ran away ; a pleasant an- 
 nouncement on startiug for one's first ride ! The 
 seat being very lofty, it might make some people 
 giddy to look down from it, and there is a good deal 
 of motion, because, like elephants, dromedaries move 
 the corresponding fore and hind legs together ; but 
 I certainly thought the descriptions of some travel- 
 lers very much exaggerated. Some gentlemen had 
 told me a few days before that the motion had made 
 them so " sea-sick" that they had not been able to 
 keep their seats for more than a few minutes. I 
 went about two miles and a half, on the road to the 
 Ked Sea, and enjoyed myself very much. 
 
 My mother and I set off on the morning of the 
 28th before sunrise to Karnak. Excavations are 
 going on there for M. Sabatier, the French consul- 
 general. A sphinx has just been dug up ; it is made 
 of a stone which when struck emits a clear ringing 
 
130 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 sound. It was very interesting to watch the work- 
 men, and we brought away some of the sculptured 
 stones we saw taken out of the earth. 
 
 We caught a large intruder in my brother's cabin 
 to-day; viz. a "wahren"! Two men were called in 
 to catch it, which they succeeded in doing, after 
 wounding it with their sticks. The Arabs say that 
 wahrens are the produce of the bad eggs of the 
 crocodile, but I do not think this is a fact in natural 
 history. The one we found was about sixteen inches 
 long and beautifully marked. A bottle of brandy 
 was his fate, which, if he was a " true believer," 
 must have given him great uneasiness ! 
 
 Our friends from the " Memphis " dined with us to- 
 day*, and at sunset my mother and I, accompanied 
 by Mr. (jr., set off for the western bank to pay it a 
 moonlight visit. 
 
 We rode to Gournoo along the banks of the river, 
 and then turning inland proceeded to the Memno- 
 nium. I cannot describe the effect of the moonlight 
 on this lovely temple. The shadows hid all defects, 
 
 * To avoid a repetition of the ludicrous feast at Sioot, we took 
 care this time not to let Khalil know that we expected an addition 
 to our dinner party till just as he was laying the cloth. This, I am 
 afraid, rather disconcerted his ideas of hospitality, but relieved us 
 from a lengthy entertainment. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 131 
 
 and the fitful uncertain light played softly on the 
 ruined pillars. The four headless colossi on the front 
 wall looked more majestic and imposing than I had 
 ever seen them. With their arms folded on their 
 breasts, they seemed fit guardians of the temple, and 
 appeared to set all intruders at defiance. The "Pair," 
 I have before attempted imperfectly to describe, but 
 by moonlight the effect was doubly impressive, and 
 as we slowly approached them, — from the time we 
 saw them looming in the distance, till a closer ap- 
 proach reminded us how insignificant we looked 
 beside them, — our admiration was on the increase, 
 and though friends at home may laugh at the idea, 
 it was in silence that we drew near, and with some- 
 thing like awe that we gazed upon them. 
 
 It was a moment of intense delight that we spent 
 in contemplating them ; there was neither voice nor 
 sound to disturb us, and everything was in harmony 
 with the scene around. The evening hour, the still- 
 ness of the air, the attitude of those sculptured 
 figures, all spoke of Best. Rest for the mind, — a 
 cessation from care, — a pause in the tide of time, — 
 a moment snatched for high and noble thoughts; 
 and truly our thoughts did wander back, far away 
 from the present, into the shadowy regions of mys- 
 tery and purity. At that still hour, with Heaven's 
 
 K 2 
 
132 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 moon shining down upon us, our spirits seemed to 
 commune with the past, the mystic veil was lifted 
 off the ruins that surrounded us, and the golden 
 age of Truth stood out, clear and distinct; that 
 age when the spirit of man worshipped the Su- 
 preme God ; that age when mortal man considered 
 his Maker's name too awful to be breathed by 
 human lips, and, eager to devise a means of ap- 
 proaching less boldly the Throne of Grace, fell to 
 adoring the various symbols of His attributes. From 
 that fatal moment Man, the noblest of his Creator's 
 works, fell, and fell hopelessly; from revering the 
 symbols meant to raise his thoughts, he turned them 
 into objects of worship ; he " forgot his Maker, and 
 changed His glory into a calf that eateth hay." 
 
 But years flew on, and to human eyes the pros- 
 perity of Egypt increased ; the Augustan Age of 
 Theban glory dawned ; nations were subject to her, 
 and distant thrones enriched her with their spoils. 
 Kings bowed down before her, the mighty of the 
 earth owned her power. The Pyramids of Cheops 
 and Chephranes rose up before the astonished eyes of 
 men; the noble temples of Thebes bore witness to 
 the greatness of their founders. Poets sang their 
 praise, and historians vied with each other in record- 
 ing their fame. From north to south, from east to 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 133 
 
 west, at the name of Kameses, men trembled and 
 bowed down. The altars reeked with the blood of 
 sacrifices ; the temples resounded with songs of 
 thanksgiving, but a day of vengeance was at hand. 
 
 The heart of Pharaoh waxed great, he thought 
 upon his riches, and said within himself, " I am the 
 son of the wise, the son of ancient kings." He looked 
 upon the noble river, the source of his wealth and 
 greatness, and he said, * The river is mine own, and 
 I have made it for myself;" then was fulfilled the 
 prediction of the son of Amoz, " The Egyptians will 
 I give over into the hand of a cruel lord, and a 
 fierce king shall reign over them." The Persian 
 conqueror advanced, and Egypt fell a prey to his all- 
 powerful arm. With an unsparing hand the icono- 
 clastic fire-worshipper broke down the mighty images 
 of ancient kings, then did " Bel bow down and Nebo 
 stoop." 
 
 Years rolled on, but brought not their accustomed 
 meed of glory to the kingdom of the Pharaohs. 
 Egypt's star had set, and other nations figured on 
 the scene of action. First Greece, then Eome rose 
 upon her ruins ; her ebbing greatness glittered for a 
 time, but it was with a faint and borrowed light, 
 which did but reflect the lustre of her conquerors. 
 
 The prophetic curse has been fully poured out 
 
 K 3 
 
134 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 upon this land, and Egypt is still in every sense 
 " the basest of kingdoms," and ruled over by stran- 
 gers. The monuments of her greatness are suffered 
 to decay, and her noblest temples are used as 
 quarries by her oppressors ! 
 
 A view of these Egyptian wonders ought certainly 
 to be obtained by moonlight. This ghostly wavering 
 light suits them better than the glaring noon-day 
 beams, and the eye rests upon them tranquilly, and 
 takes in a better consciousness of their vastness, than 
 when dazzled by a tropical sun ; I am sure there is 
 no traveller who sees them by this light, but will 
 
 " Home returning soothly swear, 
 Was never scene so sad and fair ! " 
 
 March 1st. — At half-past five this morning we set 
 off with Mr. Gr. to visit the tombs of the Assaseef 
 valley, where the priests and private individuals were 
 buried. Many of them are used as dwelling houses 
 by the Arabs, and are therefore much blackened with 
 smoke, and some of them were too filthy to enter. 
 In a few the sculptures are interesting, but on the 
 whole we did not much enjoy our visit to them. In 
 some, after wandering through dark passages which 
 seemed interminable, we were fairly driven back by 
 the bats, which flew about us in swarms, nearly ex- 
 tinguishing our candles, and the smell and heat were 
 stifling. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 135 
 
 We also had a hunt among some crude brick build- 
 ings for some bricks made by the children of Israel, 
 and stamped with the name of Thothmes III., the 
 contemporary of Moses. We pulled out a great 
 many bricks, all of which were stamped, but very 
 slightly ; and all were not royal cartouches, some 
 being those of reigning high-priests. They were 
 carelessly done, and many of the impressions were 
 faintly marked. If their makers had imagined they 
 would in time become valuable as curiosities, they 
 would have taken more pains with them. 
 
 We paid some farewell visits this afternoon, and 
 dropping a couple of miles down the river, moored 
 opposite Karnak. The " Memphis," which followed 
 us in the evening, did the same, and on the following 
 morning we took a delightful ride before breakfast. 
 We went past Medinet Aboo, and then keeping 
 west into the desert, we examined a small Ptole- 
 maic temple, near which are traces of the ancient 
 lake across which the dead used to be ferried. We 
 next proceeded to the Tombs of the Queens. Several 
 skulls of these royal ladies were lying in hopeless 
 confusion, among fragments of their bones. I really 
 felt inclined to put them back, if not in their original 
 places, at least under cover of their native dust ! 
 
 These tombs are on the other side of the same hill 
 
 K 4 
 
136 WANDEKINGS IN 
 
 in which their royal husbands were buried. There may 
 perhaps be a communication between them, but none 
 has as yet been discovered. There is a profusion of 
 yellow paint in them, but they are not to be compared 
 to those of the kings ; they are on a different scale 
 and style, and have none of those mysterious figures 
 which one sees in the former : their position is al- 
 most as lonely. After examining some of them we 
 rode along the desert to Deir el Medineh, where are 
 the remains of a small temple which was converted 
 by the early Christians into a "Deir" or convent. 
 
 On one of the walls of the temple we traced a dis- 
 tinct representation of a soul being brought before 
 Osiris to be judged. The good deeds of the deceased, 
 in ajar, are being weighed in the balance against an 
 ostrich feather, the emblem of Justice. The four 
 genii who are to escort the soul to Amenti (the in- 
 visible world shrouded in mystery), stand on a lotus 
 flower before Osiris, and Harpocrates is seated on a 
 crook, between the scales and the entrance to the 
 divine abode (which is guarded by Cerberus); his 
 presence " is intended to show that the deceased, on 
 admission to that pure state, must be born again, and 
 commence a new life, cleansed from all the impu- 
 rities of his earthly career." * Thoth the god of letters 
 
 * Wilkinson's Ancient Egyptians. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 137 
 
 next appears, holding in his hand a tablet on which 
 he has inscribed the actions of the deceased, and 
 which he is in the act of showing to the king of 
 Hades. On the threshold stands the soul between 
 two figures of goddesses, with an ostrich feather in 
 his hand : forty-two assessors are ranged in two 
 rows above them. 
 
 We continued our ride through the desert to 
 Deir el Bahree. The road was quite new to us, and 
 the scenery magnificent. Cliffs surrounded us on 
 all sides, but every now and then a break in them 
 to the right disclosed a reach of the river, winding 
 through the fertile plain beneath us. We saw many 
 tombs during this lonely ride which had hitherto 
 been left undisturbed ; a plain slab of stone blocked 
 up the entrances, and the " seal " set on them so long 
 ago remained unbroken and untouched. Sacrilegious 
 and profane must be the hand that would daringly 
 intrude upon the privacy that Nature has respected. 
 We felt that were we even to discover wonders 
 greater than Belzoni ever saw, we could not be 
 accessory to removing the stone which concealed 
 from the vulgar eye the remains of a once-loved 
 friend ! 
 
 We again went to see the newly-opened tomb 
 which I before described. It was in rather better 
 
138 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 order, a rough door having been made, and the 
 floor was clearer and more fit to walk on, as they 
 had heaped the bodies up against the wall. At best 
 it was a ghastly spectacle, but we stayed several 
 minutes; I unwound a piece of mummy cloth, and 
 took a piece of the aromatic gum used in embalming. 
 We bought a curious figure of a fox or wolf * made 
 of wood and painted black, which the Arabs had 
 found. 
 
 This evening we paid a farewell visit to Karnak, 
 and for the last time gazed upon its wonders. There 
 was a glorious sunset, which lighted up the sur- 
 rounding country. "Egypt," as St. John says, "is 
 a beautiful country if the elements of a picture con- 
 sist in remarkable contrasts, in beauty and wildness, 
 in fertility and desolation ; a magnificent sky of gold 
 sprinkled with patches of ebony, fields of inimitable 
 verdure, herds of camels and buffaloes, flocks of 
 sheep and goats, rocks and forests, expanses of yellow 
 sand, and a river of vast breadth, reflecting like a 
 mirror the glittering light of the sun. Add to this, 
 the effect of renowned names upon the imagina- 
 tion ; the land before us was that of Egypt ; the 
 river, the Nile ; the mountains upon which the sun 
 
 * A wolf was the emblem of death, and a fox or jackall repre- 
 sented a priest among the ancient Egyptians. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 139 
 
 was darting his farewell: beams, were the Arabian 
 chain, and the boundless sands behind which he was 
 about to sink, were the Lybian Desert." 
 
 We left Thebes about eight o'clock, a lovely moon 
 lighting up the plain on which we had spent so 
 many happy hours, and on which we had found so 
 much to interest us. The moon on first rising in 
 this country looks twice the size she does in Eng- 
 land, and is of a bright orange colour. The clouds 
 are sometimes so red, and the reflections in the river 
 so distinct, that one might think the sun was going 
 to reappear. 
 
140 WANDEKINGS IN 
 
 CHAPTEE VII. 
 
 The Temple of Dendera. — Visit to a Monastery. — Tomb of 
 Sheikh Hereedee. — The forbidden Fruit. — Nile Minstrelsy. — 
 Holy Men. — Grottoes of Beni Hassan. — Sugar Manufactory. — 
 Sakias and Shadoofs. — Pyramids of Sakkara. — Mummy Pits. 
 
 March 4th, Keneh. — Contrary winds have de- 
 layed us very much, and it was not till two o'clock 
 that we reached Keneh. We have seen a great num- 
 ber of swallows to-day. They make their nests in 
 holes in the banks of the river; they were flying 
 about in all directions, and seemed to be breaking up 
 their winter quarters in preparation for a journey to 
 England. 
 
 March 5th. — We crossed the river at six o'clock 
 this morning, and mounting donkeys, rode to see the 
 Temple of Dendera. It is of a comparatively modern 
 date, being only eighteen or nineteen hundred years 
 old ; it is therefore of a debased style of architecture, 
 and after the fine old Theban buildings not much to 
 be admired. The columns are heavy, and the capitals 
 clumsy. Those in the portico, twenty-four in num- 
 ber, are all alike ; square at the top, with the face of 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 145 
 
 and there was as much ornament bestowed upon it, 
 in the shape of miserably bad prints and pictures 
 and still more wretched artificial flowers, as its 
 poverty could muster. The church has a belfry 
 surmounted by a cross. My donkey boy pointed it 
 out to me, and explained its use by saying "ding 
 dong" two or three times over. The town of Grirgeh 
 looks very pretty on approaching it from the river. 
 The minarets are some of them ancient and ex- 
 tremely graceful. The bazaars are tolerably good. 
 We bought two turkeys here ; Grirgeh is famed for 
 them. 
 
 I suppose it was in part owing to our visit to the 
 monastery that on our return to the boat we caught 
 a larger number of fleas on our clothes than we usually 
 did after a ride through the bazaars. We took the 
 trouble of counting them up to sixty, but after that 
 we left off.* 
 
 A downward voyage has its desagrernens. The 
 men sit facing the cabin door, roaring, shouting, and 
 singing to their oars without cessation, and as there 
 
 * Ladies are more apt to carry off these specimens of natural his- 
 tory than gentlemen are, because in riding through bazaars their 
 dresses come so often in contact with the natives. We always had 
 an exciting hunt on returning from any town, but excepting on these 
 occasions were tolerably free from them. See Appendix No. II. 
 
 L 
 
146 WANDEBINGS IN 
 
 is generally less wind at night, we have to take 
 advantage of the calm, and on we go until our pro- 
 gress is cut short by the boat sticking fast on a sand- 
 bank; then comes a shout and a splash, and we 
 know by the heaving of the boat and the chorus of 
 grunts or groans (like letting off steam), that the 
 men are all in the water shoving us off with their 
 shoulders. At last, after sometimes a good half 
 hour's work, with the well-known cry in every dif- 
 ferent key of " hay ley-hay lissa, haye-lissa," * we are 
 again set afloat, and the rowing recommences. 
 
 When there is a head wind we either moor or else 
 float down sideways, and then the little boat bumps 
 against the big one, and we toss about, making 
 very little way. When the wind is high, everything 
 we eat is filled with sand, and the total absence of 
 cleanliness in all the cooking arrangements is occa- 
 sionally trying. To some people these objections 
 may appear incompatible with the charms of a Nile 
 voyage, but the country is so full of deeply in- 
 teresting associations that one feels they are worth 
 all these drawbacks. 
 
 March 8th. — We arrived at (rebel Sheikh Hereedee 
 last night, and at five o'clock this morning we climbed 
 up to see some grottoes cut in a stratum of limestone 
 
 * " Lord help us." 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 
 
 147 
 
 at the top of the gebel or mountain. They were on a 
 splendid scale. The roof is supported by huge blocks, 
 eighteen feet in diameter. The path we ascended 
 was very precipitous and shingly, but two of the 
 crew who came with us helped us up the most diffi- 
 cult parts, and the view from the top amply repaid 
 us for our trouble. The morning was rather hazy, 
 but the prospect was very extensive. Sheikh Her- 
 eedee and his son Sheikh Hassan are buried in an 
 extraordinary place. On arriving at the top of this 
 cliff, some three or four hundred feet high, a pre- 
 cipice of the same depth yawned at our feet, as if 
 the mountain had been rent asunder ; in this lonely 
 and almost inaccessible ravine the two sheikhs are 
 buried. The boatmen who accompanied us contrived, 
 however, to scramble down by a winding path to pay 
 their devotions ; they kissed the doorstep seven times 
 before entering the tomb. We sent them afterwards 
 up the other side of the ravine to break off some 
 pieces of crystal, of which the rocks there are entirely 
 composed. We regretted not being able to accom- 
 pany them, but we should have been a long time 
 about it, and it was break-neck work. It appeared 
 to me that some ancient mountain torrent might once 
 have forced its way down this ravine, but Khalil had 
 never heard it conjectured that there had been any. 
 
148 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 The rock is all limestone. Few travellers visit this 
 mountain, though it is well worth seeing ; the scenery 
 is so wild and beautiful. Khali], who seems conver- 
 sant with every hole and corner of the country, ad- 
 vised our going. It is said that any one who passes 
 a night quite alone in Sheikh Hereedee's tomb, will 
 be rewarded by the sight of a serpent who has the 
 power of curing all diseases. 
 
 March 9th. — We reached Sioot last night, and 
 this morning my mother and I set off to the bazaars 
 to invest in some earthenware goods, for which this 
 place is famous, but though we had ordered some on 
 our way up the country, we found very few ready. 
 After remaining some time in the town, we went 
 to see the cemetery, which is in the desert at the 
 foot of the hills. It is a wild and desolate place, but 
 the tombs seem well taken care of. There is little 
 variety in them ; they consist either of a plain head- 
 stone, or a square inclosure covered in by a white- 
 washed dome. The only living things among them 
 were some aloes, which grow to a much greater 
 height than in England. All the approaches to Sioot 
 are pretty. The roads are deliciously shaded by the 
 mimosa or sont tree, a kind of acacia, the scent of 
 which fills the air for miles round. Often in sailing 
 on the river, we know when we are coming to a grove 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 149 
 
 of these trees, long before they are in sight. Sioot 
 is the capital of Upper Egypt, and the prettiest town 
 on the Nile. The view of it from the desert is beauti- 
 ful ; we counted thirteen minarets, some of which are 
 considered the most graceful in Egypt. The pasha's 
 palace is situated among palms, lemons, and acacias, 
 which are all in flower at present. The flower of the 
 date-palm is exquisite. It is pure white, and looks 
 like alabaster. The flower it most resembles is the 
 lily of the valley, but the green stalks are more 
 thickly covered with blossoms. 
 
 A number of them lie in a kind of pod, of the shape 
 (only larger) of the shell of a cuttle fish, and when 
 this ripens and bursts, or if it is cut open, there lie 
 these lovely flowers, looking so pure and beautiful. 
 There are two sorts of date-palm, the male and the 
 female ; the latter bears the lovely flower above de- 
 scribed. At this time of year, we see men grafting 
 the pollen of the male upon the female trees. We 
 gathered to-day some of the " Khamnus Lotus." It 
 is a small fruit about the size of a crab-apple, and of 
 the colour of a cherry. It is said by the Arabs to be 
 the fruit that tempted Eve. We saw them being sold 
 in the bazaars; they were measured out in wooden 
 cups. 
 
 March 10th. We took a ride through the town 
 
 L 3 
 
150 WANDEEINGS IN 
 
 or bender* of Manfalout to-day; it is of considerable 
 extent, but the bazaars are very poor. I suppose 
 English ladies are rare sights here, as we were very 
 much stared at, more so I thought than in other 
 places. We were advised to bring very thick blue 
 veils with us, but we seldom have occasion to use 
 them. I find an umbrella serves the purpose just as 
 well, and is much pleasanter. 
 
 Seven years ago, a lady riding through the streets 
 of Cairo without a thick veil would have been pelted ; 
 now in the capital veils are never used by Europeans. 
 We were laughed at for supposing them necessary. 
 
 March lift. — We arrived at Tel el Amarna early 
 this morning, and having procured some miserable 
 little donkeys, as usual bridle-less, and rather given 
 to sitting down when mounted, we set off across the 
 desert to see some grottoes, discovered by Sir Gk 
 Wilkinson in 1824. We managed to creep into two 
 of them, the others are completely choked up by 
 sand. When once within them, we found them lofty 
 and airy. The walls are covered with sculptures and 
 hieroglyphics ; one of the subjects we deciphered very 
 clearly represented a king and queen, with their 
 children, making offerings to the Sun-god Ea. The 
 rays descending on the worshippers, terminated in 
 
 * Market- town. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 151 
 
 human hands, typifying the benefits they received 
 from the life-giving god. 
 
 We were joined to-day by the " Crescent and the 
 Cross," on its way down from Nubia. Our friends 
 paid us a visit under the palm-trees of Tel el Amarna, 
 where we had spread a quilt, and as it was Sunday 
 were waiting for a breeze to spring up to take us on 
 without rowing. 
 
 I think the palm-trees of this place are more 
 beautiful than elsewhere, or the weather was more 
 than usually perfect and delicious, for we enjoyed 
 this day of rest more than I can describe. It was 
 such a delightful change after the perpetual noise on 
 the river. One gets so tired of the splash of the oars 
 on a hot airless day, and the men's singing (if indeed 
 such a name can be given to some of their unmusical 
 effusions) is, as I have already said, incessant. We 
 occasionally ask for a translation of their songs, but if 
 a dragoman is not willing to render them into Eng- 
 lish, he need not, as a general rule, be pressed ! Those 
 that Khalil translated for our benefit were generally 
 invocations of help to Allah or the Prophet, or some- 
 thing to do with the latter, as " The well of Muelleh 
 (near Mecca) is empty," and then came the chorus, 
 " Fill it with water." This song was an inexhaustible 
 source of amusement to Khalil, who was very fond of 
 
 L 4 
 
152 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 a joke, particularly his own. If the tea pot wanted 
 filling, or if anything was empty, we used to delight 
 him by saying, " Imla el beer el Muelleh," (" Fill the 
 well of Muelleh,") and he would pass the joke round 
 to the crew, on his way to the kitchen. The words of 
 the songs are generally a propos de bottes, as " The 
 slave has lost his master's property," or " He has re- 
 turned in safety." " Hayley, hayley ya Salame!"* 
 is a very common one. Their songs generally consist 
 of two parts, a solo which the sharpest of the party 
 takes upon himself to vary every time, and a chorus 
 which they all repeat. When they were rowing us in 
 the dinghy, they generally kept time with their oars, 
 to the tune of " Hayley, hayley, ya Salame ! " which 
 they changed in the following manner, " Ya Moham- 
 med, ya salame ! Ya el merkeb f, ya salame ! Ya 
 jemel J, ya salame ! and so on, every passing object 
 suggesting fresh words. It used to delight them 
 very much if I gave any help in the selection. I re- 
 member once how enchanted they were at my pro- 
 posing " Ya amm Khalil ! § ya salame ! " They also 
 often sang about their sheikhs or saints, of whom 
 
 * " Help ! help ! oh, peace ! " 
 
 f " Oh ! the boat ! " J " Oh, camel ! " 
 
 § " Oh ! uncle Khalil ! " The lower orders in Egypt generally 
 nse the word Amm, uncle, when speaking to each other. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 153 
 
 they seem to have an indefinite supply. There was 
 one who was in constant request; his name was Abel 
 el Adee ; he had a house at Boolak, but what there 
 was particularly saint-like about him, I never quite 
 found out. As I am on the subject of saints, I ought 
 to mention that a few days ago, as we were sailing 
 down a wild and rocky reach of the river, we saw the 
 men throwing pieces of bread into the water. Khalil 
 was summoned to tell us the reason of this remark- 
 able fancy, and he informed us that a great saint 
 called Sheikh Said lived in the mountains we were 
 passing, whether in the body or not, I am not sure, 
 and that every one who passed ought to throw bread 
 into the water, which he assured us would be duly 
 transmitted to him by the birds. We certainly saw 
 several large white birds taking the pieces in their 
 beaks, and flying with them towards the rocks, but 
 whether to their own homes, or the sheikh's, I cannot 
 pretend to say. We however added our contributions 
 to the feast, having no objection to propitiate either 
 dead or absent saints, but we in general ignored the 
 sanctity of those we encountered. Often when the 
 wind obliged us to moor, we were much annoyed by 
 these "holy men." As soon as the boat stopped, 
 a skinny half-clothed and wholly dirty figure came 
 towards us, and squatting on the bank struck up a 
 
154 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 doleful chant, to which he kept time by swaying his 
 body backwards and forwards, and rolling his head 
 from side to side, accelerating his movements, and 
 raising his voice, as his zeal waxed warm. It was in 
 vain desiring him to move off ; for though he received 
 nothing from us, he was sure of a liberal bakshish 
 from Khalil and the crew, who treated him with great 
 deference, and seemed to think themselves highly 
 honoured by his presence ! 
 
 March \2th. — We reached Beni Hassan last night, 
 and this morning set off about six to see the grottoes. 
 We never enjoyed ourselves less, for a tremendous 
 gale of wind was blowing, and the sand was flying 
 about our heads in clouds, so that we could hardly 
 venture to open either our eyes or mouths. We 
 went first to the Stabl Antar, a name given to several 
 grottoes, both here and at Sioot. They seem to have 
 been the joint work of Osirei I. and of Thothmes III., 
 for their cartouches are very clearly sculptured on the 
 walls. 
 
 A desert ride of two miles brought us to a range 
 of about thirty grottoes, cut in a stratum of lime- 
 stone, two-thirds of the way up the mountain. The 
 road led among the ruins of some villages, which Ibra- 
 him Pasha destroyed on account of the lawlessness of 
 the inhabitants, — a severe measure, but it freed the 
 country from a dangerous set of men. Our donkeys 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 155 
 
 and ourselves were dragged up a precipitous pathway, 
 and at last came upon a level with the grottoes, which 
 are more ancient than the Stabl Antar. They are 
 not of great depth, but their paintings are remarkable 
 on account of their great antiquity. The most cu- 
 rious represented a wrestling match. Every ima- 
 ginable position was depicted. The wrestlers were 
 painted two different shades of red, so that the in- 
 tertwining of their limbs might be distinctly seen. 
 The drawings were wonderfully correct. We were 
 much amused at the animated hunting scenes in 
 many of the tombs. The hunter with a bow and 
 arrows stands in the middle of a group of gazelles 
 and antelopes ! Some are running towards him, while 
 those in front remain stationary to afford a good 
 aim ; very few are running away. Those near him 
 are stuck full of arrows, which they however seem to 
 enjoy, and the others turn round their heads with 
 the most perfect nonchalance, to see when their turn 
 is coming ! 
 
 In one of the tombs a bull fight is depicted ; in 
 another, tumblers and jugglers are amusing a com- 
 pany of guests, who are playing at draughts and 
 other games. Some travellers, whose sole ideas of 
 Egypt are connected with the comparatively modern 
 history of Joseph and his brethren, have imagined 
 one of the paintings here to represent the meeting 
 
156 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 between them, but this supposition is quite erro- 
 neous.* The date of the paintings precludes the 
 possibility of it. 
 
 Mr. Grliddon (late U. S. Consul at Cairo), who has 
 written several interesting books upon Egypt, re- 
 minds us that " the events dwelt upon by the 
 Jewish historians may have been sometimes ex- 
 ceedingly important to the interests and welfare of 
 the Jews, without always thereby requiring that they 
 should be of equal consequence to the Egyptians. 
 Nor must prejudice, or preconceived opinions, con- 
 tinue to be flattered by deception as to the rela- 
 tions between the early Hebrews, and a mighty, 
 powerful monarchy like that of Egypt — whose con- 
 quests prior to the Exodus as well as for many cen- 
 turies subsequently, had extended into Africa further 
 than a white man can penetrate at the present day, 
 whose garrisons held Palestine, Syria, Arabia, Assyria, 
 Mesopotamia, Asia Minor, and other remote Asiatic 
 nations in tribute or in bondage, and whose powerful 
 sway had already been felt in Lybia and Barbary. 
 
 " It is a sad, but too excruciatingly accurate con- 
 
 * The fact that the sculpture represents a man leading forward 
 twelve others towards the king would, one would think, be a suf- 
 ficient.reason for not persisting in the mistake, as it is nowhere said 
 that Joseph presented all his brethren to Pharaoh. We read on the 
 contrary that he only took five of them. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 157 
 
 viction in the minds of Champollion's disciples, that 
 had all the hieroglyphic legends of ancient Egypt 
 been preserved to us, we should now possess a com- 
 plete, unbroken, and authentic series of annals, back 
 to the remotest periods of conceivable postdiluvian 
 time ; when the ancestors of the Hebrews were mere 
 nomads in Aramanea ; when the Pelasgians were yet 
 unborn; the Greeks, the Persians, and perhaps the 
 Phoenicians, had not been dreamed of; more than 
 fifteen centuries before Troy fell, and much more 
 than thirteen hundred years before Solomon founded 
 the Temple of Jerusalem, till we should approach the 
 early hour when mankind dwelt together on the 
 plains of Shinar."* Again he says, " The "monu- 
 ments are silent about the Hebrews. Although some 
 cannot disconnect the Jews from the Egyptians, we 
 can certainly detach the Egyptians from the Jews. 
 Egyptian local and internal history is as independent 
 of Jewish history prior to the days of Solomon, — ex- 
 cept so far as it may concern the Hebrew Exode, — 
 as is the history of China. Egypt has her own 
 chronicles, her own events, and her own annalists 
 independently of all connection with the Jews, whom 
 she preceded in antiquity by at least ten centuries." \ 
 The vaulted roofs in these grottoes are all painted, 
 
 * Gliddon's Ancient Egypt. f Idem. 
 
158 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 and supported by pillars of various kinds. Among 
 them we saw and recognised the Doric! supposed 
 to have had its origin in Greece, but which was to be 
 seen in these caves some centuries before Abraham 
 visited Egypt ! 
 
 By the time we had seen the tombs, the wind 
 was blowing a tremendous hurricane, and the sand 
 raised by it showered down on us like heavy rain. 
 In fact until we reached our dinghy, we had to undergo 
 all the disagreeable effects of a regular sand-storm, 
 so often mentioned and so often misrepresented by 
 travellers, that I will again venture to quote the 
 learned Mr. Gliddon, and reassure the timid by tell- 
 ing them that " the Desert is not a dreary plain of 
 sand, which has overwhelmed a once fertile country, 
 whose only vestiges are the ( isolated gardens of the 
 oasis ; ' but a high table land of limestone, sandstone, 
 granite, and other rocks, according to locality, where 
 frequently as the shades of evening warn you to 
 search for a bivouac, you are delighted if you can 
 find as much sand as will make under your carpet a 
 Bedawee's mattress. The Isthmus of Suez, and a 
 few other places, are exceptions to the rule. 
 
 "The fanciful account of caravans being over- 
 whelmed by sand would be too puerile to deserve 
 attention, did not those paragons of observers, Hero- 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 159 
 
 dotus and Strabo, Paul Lucas and St. John (who 
 confined their knowledge to the half-mile strip of 
 sand between the cultivated soil and the desert or 
 ' Hagar ', stone) perpetuate the delusion. Strabo, 
 like some later travellers, must have braved great 
 dangers during his voyage ! The army of Cambyses 
 is said to have been swallowed up by ( waves of sand.' 
 It would be a phenomenon in physics to see one of 
 such waves! No aerial force having the power of 
 raising such waves of sand, there never was during a 
 simoom or khamseen, the slightest danger from any 
 motion of the sands of the desert. 
 
 " The desert, the sand, the simoom, with all their 
 fabulous horrors, are infinitely more appalling in a 
 book of travels than when encountering the acme of 
 their disagreeables in Sahara itself."* 
 
 Our dahabieh had floated down from Beni Hassan 
 to Mataghara, a village three miles further on, so 
 when we left the grottoes we got into the dinghy, 
 and sailed away at a tremendous rate with a shawl 
 tied between two oars, and an umbrella. The Arabs 
 all have long scarfs or plaids of a blue and black 
 check pattern, which they often use as sails, and 
 though a little alarming at first sight, they answer 
 the purpose very well. We soon got on board the 
 
 * Gliddon's Ancient Egypt. 
 
160 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 w Sphinx," and with some difficulty persuaded the 
 rais to start, for though the wind was right in our 
 favour, it was blowing with such force that we were 
 assured that, if we were once to run upon a sandbank, 
 we might stick there a perpetuite ; but the " Cres- 
 cent and the Cross" and the "Memphis" having 
 started (the rais of the former was ruled with a 
 stick), we insisted on going too, and accordingly set 
 off in grand style, and arrived safely at Minieh about 
 twelve o'clock. We had arranged with our friends 
 of the "Memphis" to stop there and see the sugar 
 manufactory, which is superintended by a Mr. 
 Hoskins, a Scotchman, and a very intelligent man. 
 
 The first thing we saw was the sugar-canes being 
 thrown into a trough which passed them under an 
 enormous roller turned by three wheels. The juice 
 squeezed out was carried off in an open pipe. The 
 pressed canes were then shovelled away down below, 
 and served as fuel to the furnaces. The sap was 
 carried to an upper room through pipes which led it 
 into vats, where it was passed through charcoal and 
 lime to purify it ; then through more pipes of a ser- 
 pentine form, which condensed and carried off the 
 steam; after this it was passed through some more 
 charcoal filters, then again raised and boiled in a 
 vacuum vat, and poured off in a large stream into 
 
TIIE LAND OF HAM. 161 
 
 another receptacle where it was left to thicken. The 
 next process was pouring it into some porous vats, 
 which were turned round with such velocity that 
 the centrifugal force, continued for six minutes, 
 strained off the molasses, and left the brown sugar, 
 which was carried away in baskets, and again pressed 
 for some hours to extract every drop of moisture. 
 
 The purifying and moulding into loaves takes place 
 at another manufactory which was not at work, as 
 labour is scarce owing to the frequent conscriptions. 
 Sugar here is purified with eggs, charcoal, and lime, 
 on account of the Mohammedan prejudice against 
 blood. It is therefore not so white and sparkling as 
 the West-India sugar. About eight or ten tons are 
 made daily ; five hundred Arabs are employed by 
 Mr. Hoskins ; they work day and night, six hours at a 
 time each. They seemed very active and cheerful, 
 but of course asked for bakshish, which however they 
 did not get. 
 
 I do not think that I have mentioned the two in- 
 struments of irrigation in Egypt, by which the waters 
 of the Nile are carried to the very borders of the 
 sandy desert. 
 
 The Sakia is a rude contrivance of two perpendi- 
 cular wheels turned by a horizontal beam. The outer 
 wheel has a string of earthen jars, which at every re- 
 
 M 
 
162 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 volution descend into the water, and on ascending 
 empty themselves into a trough ; the water then flows 
 into the fields by little channels, which invest every 
 separate square patch, and serve the double purpose of 
 watering the ground and fencing off one enclosure 
 from another. The sakia is worked by a pair of oxen, 
 urged on by a small boy who sits on the end of the 
 pole to which they are yoked. Creak, creak, goes the 
 sakia from morning to night ; full well does the Nile 
 traveller remember that sound. It is the only one 
 there is to break the intense stillness of the air. Thou- 
 sands and thousands of birds are daily seen, but there 
 are few singing birds in Egypt, and the melancholy 
 music of the sakia seems the dirge of the kingdom of 
 the Pharaohs ! 
 
 In Lower Egypt, and particularly in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Minieh, is seen the Shadoof, a con- 
 trivance simple as it is ancient, and which no doubt 
 presented itself to Abraham's eyes, as it did in the 
 year 1855 to ours. An exact representation of it may 
 be seen sculptured in the tombs. It consists of a 
 bucket swinging from a pole ; it is dipped into the 
 river, and emptied above by another into a shallow 
 stream. The pole is weighted at the other end with a 
 large stone, or a lump of clay. 
 
 There are generally two men at each bucket who 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 163 
 
 stand opposite each other, filling and emptying it with- 
 out cessation. They are sometimes scantily clothed, 
 but oftener are in nature's garb alone. If the bank 
 is high there are two or three ranges of shadoofs, the 
 lower pouring into the reservoirs of the upper. It is 
 very hard work, and the men are not kept at it more 
 than three hours each. These bronze figures working 
 silently and sadly are often the only living things one 
 sees along the banks for miles together. There is no 
 creak, as in the sakia, and you can sometimes hardly 
 distinguish the dark figures that call out for bakshish 
 as you are sailing past them ! 
 
 Everything that supports life in Egypt is taxed by 
 the pasha. Every sakia is taxed so many piastres a 
 year, and every palm-tree is numbered and taxed 
 also.* In short, how the wretched inhabitants live 
 is a marvel, considering the many hindrances they 
 meet with, though certainly with such a climate and 
 few wants one could put up with a good deal. 
 
 The wind which was so favourable suddenly chopped 
 round soon after we left Minieh, so here we are moored 
 
 * The tax upon the palm-trees has been calculated to amount to 
 about a hundred thousand pounds sterling ; the trees are rated ac- 
 cording to their qualities, generally at a piastre and a half each. 
 The " income tax " is generally one twelfth of a man's income or 
 salary. Each kind of grain is taxed eighteen piastres per ardebb (of 
 about five bushels). — Lane's Modern Egyptians, vol. i. chap. iv. 
 21 2 
 
164 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 to-night opposite the (rebel el Tayr, or mountain of 
 the bird. The Arab captains are very cautious, and 
 there are many parts of the river where they insist on 
 mooring at night. There is a perpetual squabble on 
 the subject of mooring. The boatmen will always 
 stop close to a village, for fear, they tell you, of pirates, 
 midnight robbers, and dangers of all sorts. These 
 perils may sound very alarming, and one might ex- 
 patiate for an hour upon the idea of two or three 
 unprotected individuals in a foreign land, &c. &c, 
 but one soon gets accustomed to being " robbed and 
 murdered," and the fear of it is nothing in compari- 
 son with the Egyptian plague of dogs, by which every 
 village is infested. They bark at the boat, — they 
 bark at each other, — they bark at the jackals, in 
 short they find something to bark at the live-long 
 night ; and sound must be the sleeper whose slumbers 
 they do not disturb. 
 
 We were so much annoyed by them at Luxor, 
 that one night my brother told Khalil to fire a gun, 
 loaded only with powder, over their heads, if they 
 came near the boat ; that worthy individual, however, 
 not only loaded the gun with ball, but deliberately 
 aimed at an unfortunate intruder, wounding it mor- 
 tally. Its dying howls for some minutes were very 
 distressing, and our sporting propensities were the 
 laugh of the English boats for some days ! 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 165 
 
 Whenever a dahabieh moors at night, the traveller's 
 property is under the protection of the sheikh of the 
 district, who is responsible for its safety. For this 
 purpose two watchmen are sent to pass the night on 
 the bank, where they light a fire and, I must do them 
 the justice to say, look very picturesque. They as a 
 matter of course go sound asleep, and on awaking 
 expect a small bakshish for the benefit of their pro- 
 tection. In whatever manner their vigil has been 
 kept, the boat is equally safe, for it is their pre- 
 sence only, as watchmen, that is required. If the 
 traveller, trusting to his revolvers and the prestige of 
 the British flag, refuses to have them, it is these 
 identical men, aided by the crew, that would be 
 commissioned to rob him, and the sheikh or pasha 
 would give no redress. If however anything is stolen 
 when watchmen are engaged, any value may be put 
 upon the missing articles, and the treble is repaid by 
 the sheikh, who levies the sum upon the inhabitants 
 of his district. The bakshish is optional, and 
 Khalil very seldom paid it. Two piastres is the 
 largest sum given. 
 
 The boats' crews are in general very honest. During 
 the whole of our trip, we had only a little coffee 
 stolen. The " Skin," who was on the whole a good 
 grateful creature, had been sent on shore at Keneh 
 
 M 3 
 
J 66 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 to get some ground and roasted, and the quantity he 
 brought back was less by some okes than what he 
 took to the bazaar. 
 
 We laid in a fresh supply of lentiles at Minieh. 
 This reminds me of a story not generally known — 
 
 " I cannot say what the truth may be, 
 I tell the tale as 'twas told to me." 
 
 A gentleman was travelling on the Nile, and per- 
 ceiving what strong active men his boatmen were, 
 and yet that they never touched animal food, but 
 lived entirely on lentile soup, set his wits to work ; 
 and the idea struck him that among the fanciful and 
 credulous in his own country he might make his 
 fortune ! No sooner said than done ; our hero pro- 
 cured an immense quantity of lentiles, for which he 
 paid a mere song ; he then pounded and refined them, 
 put them up in small paper parcels, gave them a very 
 fine name, and found he might sell his " Eevalenta 
 Arabica," for any sum he liked to ask ! " He to be 
 one sharp man," as Khalil would say ! 
 
 March 13th. — The wind was contrary to-day, so we 
 could only float with the current. This motion is 
 very disagreeable; the river was extremely rough, 
 and the waves and breakers by no means despicable ; 
 our boat rolled and tossed about as if we were at sea. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 167 
 
 In floating the progress is very small, and most un- 
 dignified, — first stern foremost, then turning slowly 
 round and round, till one quite forgets which way one 
 is going ; the wind blowing in first on one side of 
 the cabin, then on the other. Our friends of the 
 "Memphis" spent the evening with us, so the boats 
 were lashed together and they jogged on side by 
 side. The " false pyramid " or " Haram el Kedab," 
 as the Arabs call it, was in sight to-day, reminding 
 us of our near approach to the end of our journey. 
 This pyramid derives its name from an erroneous 
 supposition that the base of it is a rock. It is built 
 in terraces and degrees, and is said to resemble the 
 ancient tower of Belus. 
 
 March 14th. — We had a rather exciting race with 
 the "Memphis" this evening. We had only eight oars, 
 although our full number is ten, but one man is ill, and 
 another has run away ; the deficiency ought of course 
 to be supplied by the rais, but that worthy seldom 
 does as he ought to do, so we were not fairly matched, 
 as the other boat which is half our size had six oars, 
 and after some time we had to give in. We were much 
 amused at hearing our men call out to the other crew, 
 " Any two of us could row a dinghy like that ! " 
 
 We reached Bedrishain in the evening. 
 
 March 16th. — A gale of wind yesterday prevented 
 
 M 4 
 
168 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 our visiting the pyramids of Sakkara, but this morning* 
 we set out for them, not however at our usual early 
 hour, for we waited for our letters, which had been 
 intrusted to one of the crew, whom we had sent to 
 Cairo the day before. We received twenty-two 
 letters, and a dozen newspapers. The ride to Sak- 
 kara is one of the most beautiful we have taken since 
 we have been in Egypt. The road lies through lovely 
 groves or rather forests of tall graceful palms, and 
 between mounds of rubbish and broken pottery, which 
 now mark the site of the once flourishing Memphis. 
 
 It appears that it is not in Egypt alone that these 
 extraordinary traces of ancient towns are universally 
 found. Layard, in the beginning of his celebrated 
 work on Nineveh, tells us how they struck him. He 
 says, " Were the traveller to cross the Euphrates, to 
 seek for such ruins in Mesopotamia and Chaldea 
 as he had left behind him in Asia Minor or Syria, 
 his search would be in vain. The graceful column 
 rising above the thick foliage of the myrtle, the ilex, 
 and the oleander, — the gradients of the amphitheatre 
 covering the gentle slope, and overlooking the dark 
 blue waters of a lake-like bay, — the richly carved 
 capital or cornice, half hidden by the luxuriant her- 
 bage, are replaced by the stern shapeless mound 
 rising like a hill from the scorched plain, the frag- 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 169 
 
 ments of pottery, and the stupendous mass of brick- 
 work (or rather broken earthenware), occasionally 
 laid bare by the winter rains. He has left the land 
 where nature is still lovely, where in his mind's eye 
 he can rebuild the temple or the theatre, half doubt- 
 ing whether they would have a more grateful impres- 
 sion on the senses than the ruins before him. 
 
 " He is now at a loss to give any form to the rude 
 heaps upon which he is gazing. Those of whose 
 works they are the remains have left no visible traces 
 of their civilisation or their arts, — their influence has 
 long since passed away. The more he conjectures 
 the more vague the results appear. The scene around 
 is worthy of the ruin he is contemplating. Desolation 
 meets desolation ; a feeling of awe succeeds to wonder, 
 for there is nothing to relieve the mind, to lead to 
 hope, or to tell of what has gone by. These huge 
 mounds of Assyria made a deeper impression on me, 
 gave rise to more serious thought, and more earnest 
 reflection, than the temples of Baalbec, or the theatres 
 of Ionia."* 
 
 Near the village of Sakkara are some broken figures 
 and sarcophagi, but more beautiful than all is a 
 splendid colossal statue of Rameses III., given by 
 Mohammed Ali to the British Museum, but which 
 
 * Layard's Nineveh, chap. i. p. 7. 
 
170 WANDEEINGS IN 
 
 has been left here on account of the expense of 
 removing it ! There it lies on its face, for the Nile to 
 wash over it every year, and hide its form more and 
 more ; the expression of the face is beautiful, so calm 
 and majestic, and the chiselling is equal to anything 
 of Chantrey's. 
 
 I will not fatigue the reader with a detailed ac- 
 count of this " chef-d'oeuvre de la sculpture egyp- 
 tienne," as Champollion calls it ; but his description 
 gives so true an idea of Egyptian beauty, so seldom 
 appreciated, that I subjoin an extract of it : — " La 
 face de cette statue, travaillee comme toutes les autres 
 parties avec un soin extreme, est d'une perfection que 
 je ne m'attendais point a rencontrer dans un ouvrage 
 egyptien d'aussi ancien style. L'expression en est a 
 la fois douce et fiere, et un examen tres-rapide sufnt 
 pour convaincre que c'est la un veritable portrait. 
 Les yeux, d'une grandeur moyenne, sont moins sail- 
 lants que ceux de la plupart des autres statues, les 
 sourcils sont fortement marques, Tangle externe des 
 yeux n'est point exagere comme a l'ordinaire ; le nez 
 est long et aquilin, et la bouche petite, quoique les 
 levres soient toujours un peu fortes. Des joues pleines 
 et un menton arrondi donnent a l'ovale de la face 
 une elegance et une grace dignes de remarque. Les 
 oreilles d'une excellente forme mais dont l'extremite 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 171 
 
 superieure depasse toujours la ligne de l'ceil, caractere 
 essentiel de toute figure de veritable style egyptien, 
 sont percees comme pour y suspendre quelque orne- 
 ment precieux. Rhamses-le-Grand est sans barbe, 
 ainsi que Test son aieul sur Tun des bas-reliefs de 
 Medinet Habou." * 
 
 An hour's ride brought us to the Sakkara Pyramids. 
 There are six or seven of them in tolerable pre- 
 servation, but many of them are reduced to mere 
 mounds. The highest is about three hundred feet. 
 It is divided into four terraces or degrees, and is the 
 most perfect of them all ; I went up it with two guides, 
 but it was not till I began the ascent, or rather till I 
 had reached the summit and looked down, that I 
 formed a just conception of its height. The view 
 from the top is very fine, and quite unique of its 
 kind. Looking west, the eye wanders over a wild 
 stretch of desert ground broken by many heaps of 
 pottery, and the remains of ancient Pyramids ; those 
 of Dashour and of Grhizeh overtopping their smaller 
 neighbours. The view of Cairo in the distance was 
 beautiful ; the mosque of Mohammed Ali on the 
 Citadel Hill, standing out in fine contrast to the 
 range of Mokattam mountains, whose deep red sides 
 form a back ground to the picture. 
 
 * Egypte Ancienne, par Champollion-Figeac. 
 
172 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 We next proceeded to the mummy pits. It would 
 be a dangerous ride after dark, for the plain we crossed 
 was honey-combed with half opened tombs which had 
 all been plundered of whatever they contained, and 
 bones, both human and (I was near saying) divine 
 — for those we saw were of sacred bulls, — strewed 
 the ground ! 
 
 The entrance for the first time into a mummy pit 
 is, I think, one of the strangest sights in Egypt. An 
 underground sloping passage of some length brought 
 us into this extraordinary place. There we were, 
 many feet below the surface of the earth, and for 
 miles round us were closely packed the mummied 
 bodies of ibises and cats ! ! A most strange concep- 
 tion of deity to our imaginations ! There they lay, 
 as countless as the grains of sand, and how such a 
 colony of cats could ever have been collected is, arid 
 must ever remain, a mystery to us. They are her- 
 metically sealed in cylindrical-shaped red earthenware 
 jars, of which we brought away a few. 
 
 The " father of history " takes pains to assure us that 
 the Egyptians " are extremely religious, and surpass 
 all men in the worship they render to the gods," * but 
 we cannot wonder at the satirical Juvenal finding in 
 
 * Herodotus, ii. 37. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 173 
 
 their worship an inexhaustible fund of amusement ; 
 this assemblage of cats and ibises recalls to one's mind 
 his lines on the subject, translated by Dry den : — 
 
 " How Egypt, mad with superstition grown, 
 Makes gods of monsters, but too well is known, 
 One sect devotion to Nile's serpent pays, 
 Others to Ibis, which on serpents preys. 
 Where Thebes, thy hundred gates lie unrepaired, 
 And where maimed Memnon's magic harp is heard, 
 Where these are mouldering, lo ! the sots combine 
 With pious care a monkey to enshrine. 
 Fish-gods you'll meet with fins and scales o'ergrown, 
 Diana's dogs adored in every town ; 
 Her dogs have temples, but the goddess none. 
 'Tis mortal sin an onion to devour, 
 Each clove of garlic is a sacred power ; 
 Eeligious nation, sure, and blest abodes, 
 Where every garden is o'errun with gods ! " 
 
174 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 The Pyramids of Ghizeh. — The Sphinx. — Mosque of Sultan Amr. 
 — The Copts. — Conscription* — Plague of Flies. — Last inter- 
 view with the Crew. — Farewell to the " Sphinx." 
 
 March 17 th. — At last the day was come when I 
 was to see the Pyramids of (xhizeh. I was to have 
 a near view of those wonders of the world, which I 
 had seen so often from a distance. We started at 
 seven o'clock after an early breakfast, and Mr. Gr. 
 kindly accompanied us. The day was not favourable 
 at starting, for we had a heavy shower of rain (a 
 most unusual circumstance), and so strong a gale of 
 wind was blowing, as to make us give up all hopes of 
 ascending to the top. As we continued our ride, our 
 train increased to twenty or thirty men, and close 
 to the Pyramids we found crowds of wild-looking 
 Bedouins, fine athletic men. One of the privates of 
 the 10th Hussars, stationed at Cairo just now *, was 
 there, and we saw him climb up. The ride from 
 
 * The 10th Hussars and 12th Lancers remained some days at 
 Cairo on their way from India to the Crimea. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 175 
 
 Grhizeh to the Pyramids occupied rather more than 
 two hours. During the whole of this time the objects 
 of our expedition were in view, and naturally en- 
 grossed all our attention. It is very strange that as 
 you advance the Pyramids seem constantly to recede, 
 and it was most tantalising to feel as if we were only a 
 stone's throw from them, and still find we had a con- 
 siderable distance to go. At last we reached the moun- 
 tain of masonry, and stood below it. But it was long 
 ere the eye attained the power of perceiving its real 
 proportions. Travellers have often said that the best 
 way of appreciating, in some small degree, the size of 
 the Pyramids, is to observe the height of the stones of 
 which they are composed. They are in regular tiers, 
 of which some of the lowest are six or seven feet high ! 
 This certainly gives one an idea of the scale on which 
 they are built, but their dimensions struck us most 
 forcibly when we attempted to go round them. Till 
 then we had no idea of it ! The ground they occupy 
 is said to be equal to the area of Lincoln's Inn Fields. 
 The entrance into the Great Pyramid is some way 
 from the base, but unsuccessful excavators in trying 
 to find it have raised such heaps of rubbish and sand, 
 that we had no difficulty in reaching it. The doorway 
 is very massive, but over the entrance we observed a 
 most singular-looking hieroglyphical inscription which 
 
176 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 we were much disgusted to find had been carved 
 there by Lepsius and his German friends to com- 
 memorate their contributions to archaeology under the 
 patronage of the King of Prussia. The rather bar- 
 barous nature of some of their exploits I have before 
 had occasion to refer to. Miss Martineau says that 
 much more courage is necessary to go into, than up, 
 the Great Pyramid. I do not know how that may be, 
 not having done both, but I should certainly not advise 
 any one to explore the interior whose imagination 
 might possibly be overpowered by the strange im- 
 pression of vastness and solidity which strikes the 
 mind on entering. 
 
 Considering all we had heard and read of the air- 
 lessness of the interior, we thought the fewer guides 
 we had, the better. Crowds of Bedouins surrounded 
 the entrance, all clamorously demanding to be engaged, 
 but we at last began our pilgrimage with only ten, 
 stationing two or three more at the opening to pre- 
 vent the others from following. The first passage we 
 descended was the loftiest of all, being nearly three 
 feet and a half high ! It is about a hundred feet 
 long, and is on a steep declivity. The granite with 
 which it is roofed and paved is so highly polished as 
 to be very slippery ; but there are notches cut at in- 
 tervals which prevent one falling far. We half sat, 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 177 
 
 half crouched down, and with an Arab at each arm 
 reached the end in safety. Here those, who first ex- 
 cavated, found a deep well, into the mouth of which we 
 looked, and here it was long supposed that the passage 
 ended; but, as will be presently seen, our journey was 
 only begun. We next climbed up a perpendicular wall 
 of granite overhanging the well ; how we managed it, I 
 do not know, but somehow or other we arrived at the 
 top. Here we found another passage, one hundred 
 and fifty-eight feet in length, which was as steep as 
 if it had once been a staircase, the steps of which 
 had been worn away ; but though slippery and ex- 
 tremely difficult to walk up, it was high in the roof. 
 Another long, and very low passage, in which we 
 could hardly do more than crawl along on our faces, 
 brought us to the King's Chamber. 
 
 The air was oppressive, but not so much so as might 
 be supposed. It is said there are air passages to this 
 room, but the roof is very lofty; and I cannot say 
 that we saw them distinctly. In this out of the way, 
 and almost inaccessible, place, is the sarcophagus of 
 Saophis or Cheops, as Herodotus calls him, the founder 
 of this mountain of masonry, erected according to 
 Lepsius 3426 B.C.! The sarcophagus, which is of 
 granite, sounds when struck like a deep-toned bell. 
 The walls of this chamber, and indeed of all the pas- 
 
 N 
 
178 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 sages in this pyramid, are lined with huge blocks of 
 granite, all brought from Assouan ! 
 
 Khalil made the Arabs who were with us sing to 
 let us hear the reverberation, and one of them danced, 
 — a performance totally uncalled for on our part! 
 The echoes of their song were countless. It was a 
 very strange and wild, though far from "pretty," 
 scene. Nine of these dark savage-looking creatures 
 squatted in a circle, yelling and shrieking, and beat- 
 ing time with their hands, while they rolled their 
 eyes and swayed their bodies backwards and forwards ; 
 and one, who really was worthy of being one of Pluto's 
 subjects, threw himself into the most violent contor- 
 sions. The dim light of the torches we held in our 
 hands faintly illumined this pandemonium. 
 
 The object of the erection of the Pyramids is still in- 
 volved in mystery. It is said by some that the bones of 
 a bull were found in the sarcophagus ; others deny the 
 fact ; some say that when discovered it was as empty 
 as it is now. Many have searched below it for the 
 King's body, but hitherto unsuccessfully. Under the 
 form of a pyramid, Venus has been worshipped from 
 the remotest antiquity in Hindostan; also by the 
 ancient Mexicans, the Assyrians, the Phoenicians, the 
 Greeks of Asia and Europe, and by the Egyptians, has 
 the Queen of Heaven been adored ; many therefore 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 179 
 
 think it probable that they were erected for the 
 worship of Athor, better known perhaps by her Latin 
 name of Venus. 
 
 The Sabseans had a great respect for the Pyramids, 
 fancying them to be the sepulchres of Seth, and of 
 Enoch and Sabi, his two sons, whom they look upon 
 as the first propagators of their religion. At these 
 structures they sacrifice a cock and a black calf, and 
 offer up incense.* 
 
 Of course every one who states an opinion brings, 
 or thinks he brings, forward unanswerable reasons for 
 the same, and, as a matter of course, every one thinks 
 his own conclusion the right one. Among such a host 
 of different opinions the unprejudiced traveller is 
 surely at liberty to put this and that argument to- 
 gether, and either choose for himself the reasoning 
 which on consideration appears most likely to be 
 correct, or, afraid of submitting the case to his own 
 judgment, he may let the matter rest by contenting 
 himself, though perhaps rather indolently, by observ- 
 ing things as they exist ; but let him beware how, with- 
 out much previous study and knowledge of the subject, 
 he treats with contumely the opinions of those to whom 
 we are indebted for the little we know of Ancient 
 Egypt. 
 
 ■ Sale's Preliminary Discourse to the Koran. 
 N 2 
 
180 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 After the demoniacal concert above described we 
 again intrusted ourselves to the tender mercies of our 
 guides, and proceeded to the "Queen's Chamber." 
 This apartment is situated under the apex of the 
 Pyramid, as is seen by the pointed roof. 
 
 It was indeed a strange feeling when we remem- 
 bered what acres of solid masonry separated us from 
 the open air. The chamber we were in, and indeed 
 every passage we had passed through, was lined with 
 blocks of highly polished granite so closely fitting 
 that the point of a pin could not be inserted between 
 them ! We were in the centre of the Great Pyramid ; 
 but we did not feel alarmed ; we coolly talked over 
 the chances of suffocation, and the time that would 
 elapse before we could possibly either get out, or ob- 
 tain assistance. The heat was intense, much greater 
 than on the outside, but we did not find it unbearable, 
 and, notwithstanding the difficulties of access, we did 
 not for a moment regret our trouble. 
 
 It is strange that no hieroglyphic or sculpture has 
 ever been discovered in the Pyramids ; but as usual 
 the names of travellers disfigure the walls in every 
 direction. The guides offered us pieces of white 
 chalk, and were surprised at our refusing them ! I 
 must say I think the Pyramid Bedouins have been 
 maligned. We found them gentle and civil, and 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 181 
 
 wonderfully expert in helping us ; in fact the expedi- 
 tion would be impracticable without them. They of 
 course begged for bakshish at all the most difficult 
 places, but this we resisted, and told them they would 
 get none till we came out, and, like spoiled children, 
 not then, if they asked for it ! 
 
 It was a very curious sight to see the daylight at 
 the end of the last long steep passage, up which we 
 scrambled on hands and knees. We rested for some 
 time at the entrance talking to the soldier I mentioned 
 above. We were rather amused at his not venturing 
 above a few yards into the interior. Mr. Gr. asked 
 him if he could not go where two ladies had been, 
 but he replied that there was nothing English ladies 
 would not do now-a-days, that no women in the world 
 equalled them in spirit, and so forth, but he declared 
 he would rather go to the top twice, than into such a 
 dark place with the thick walls all round him ! 
 
 The scene of one of Napoleon's greatest victories 
 recalled to our minds the thrilling address of the con- 
 queror to his men, before the battle, — " Soldiers, from 
 yonder Pyramids, forty centuries look down upon you ! " 
 How they fought, and how they conquered, animated 
 to a man, with the spirit of their leader, is now 
 matter of history, but the recollection of such events 
 as these, which had happened comparatively so near 
 
 N 3 
 
182 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 our own times, heightened very greatly the interest 
 which the Pyramids themselves could not fail to in- 
 spire.* 
 
 We next proceeded to the Sphinx, which we had 
 as yet only seen in the distance. The head and 
 ridge of the back is all that is now visible. The face 
 is much mutilated, but the expression of the eyes is 
 the same as ever, and we thought how reassuring they 
 must have been to the worshippers as they offered 
 their sacrifices in the temple that stood between its 
 feet ! It was indeed a noble idea to have such a re- 
 presentation of the deity they adored, overlooking 
 their offering and accepting it in person! Strange 
 must have been the sight when that form was en- 
 veloped in the smoke from the altar, and the pros- 
 trate crowd believed that their prayers were heard ! 
 Strange it is now to gaze into those unchanged and 
 speaking eyes, to see the vast but correct proportions 
 of that mighty idol, reposing as it has done for ages, 
 now partially veiled by the sands of the desert ! 
 
 It is impossible to account for the feeling that 
 possesses the mind on first beholding the Sphinx. 
 It cannot be produced by mere magnitude, for 
 in that respect, in comparison with the Pyramids, 
 it is nothing, and might almost be passed unob- 
 
 * Crescent and the Cross. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 183 
 
 served among the surrounding rocks; but whether 
 it be partly from association and the name, — or 
 rather that the species of art be intrinsically higher, 
 and that the delineation of the human form, and 
 features, on so gigantic a scale, has a more exalted 
 power over the imagination, — I will not pretend to 
 determine; but so it was, — and I could far more 
 easily understand the feeling which could make men 
 fall down and worship the Sphinx, than all the other 
 gods and goddesses, or even Colossi that I had ever 
 seen. The head-dress, and the mouth, ears, and eyes, 
 are very perfect, and there is something fearful in the 
 lofty calmness of its solemn earnest gaze into the far 
 distance ; and as we contemplated those eyes, fixed 
 as they have been for thousands of years, and looking 
 as if they would penetrate into futurity itself, — the 
 thought passed through our minds of the empires 
 which had risen and crumbled away, leaving scarce a 
 trace behind them, since first that rock in the desert 
 had assumed the human form, and we felt what 
 never-ending food for reflection such a sight as this 
 afforded. 
 
 The rocks of Grhizeh have been excavated to an ex- 
 tent inconceivable to our modern notions of the powers 
 of human labour. The plan of Lepsius numbers 
 more than one hundred of these chambers all con- 
 
 N 4 
 
184 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 taining reliefs or pictures, or worthy of note for some 
 peculiarities of internal construction. But these form 
 but a very small proportion of the tombs actually in 
 existence. For miles on every side the earth is honey- 
 combed with long series of sepulchral chambers, 
 crowded with hosts of dead who desired to rest within 
 the sacred precincts of the Pyramids of Grhizeh. The 
 well-known and valuable researches of Colonel Howard 
 Vyse have put us in possession of many facts regard- 
 ing this interesting spot, he having made the Pyramids 
 and adjacent tombs his principal study. 
 
 We spent some time in examining them and after- 
 wards enjoyed a quiet siesta in one which had been 
 lately vacated by a gentleman, where after a hearty 
 lunch we read Miss Martineau's beautiful, and Sir 
 Gardner Wilkinson's graphic, descriptions of all we 
 had seen. 
 
 March 18th, Sunday. — We crossed the river this 
 morning in our dinghy with Mr. Gr., and landing at 
 Old Cairo took donkeys and rode up to church. It is 
 more than an hour's ride from the landing place, and 
 our watches being all wrong * we were very late in 
 
 * The Arabs, being unprovided with chronometers, and having 
 probably never heard of Greenwich time, adopt a simple and 
 original method of keeping their watches right (?), namely, by 
 setting them at six every evening when the sun sinks below the 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 185 
 
 arriving ; but it would be difficult to be the last comer 
 at morning service in Cairo. People drop in till quite 
 the end of the sermon. I wish some one would sug- 
 gest to Mr. Lieder to preach before he reads prayers, 
 for the benefit of late comers, for his sermons de- 
 livered in rather broken English are at first diffi- 
 cult to understand. The church was very full, 
 and as most of the dahabiehs have come down the 
 river by this time, there was an extensive amount of 
 " wagging of elbows," as Hadji Baba would call it, 
 after the service. 
 
 On our way back to the " Sphinx " we went to see 
 the Mosque of Sultan Amr at Old Cairo. It was the 
 first mosque erected in this country, and therefore re- 
 garded with great reverence by the Moslems. It was 
 partially destroyed many years ago by lightning, but 
 must have been a splendid building when entire. The 
 roof is supported by three hundred and sixty columns 
 made of a white stone like alabaster ; one of them was 
 brought from Mecca, and a dent in it which Khalil 
 kissed is said to be the mark of the Prophet's hand ! 
 
 There are two pillars in this mosque near the door- 
 way, standing very close together, and the first thing 
 Khalil did, was (with some difficulty) to squeeze him- 
 
 horizon! We, of course, while on the river did the same, on the 
 principle of " doing at Rome what the Romans do." 
 
186 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 self between them, to show us, as he said, that he was 
 a good man ; bad people, it is supposed, cannot pass 
 through them ! Perforated stones are not uncom- 
 mon in India, and devout people pass through them, 
 when the opening will admit of it, in order to be 
 regenerated.* 
 
 We also visited a celebrated Coptic church this 
 afternoon, which is built over a grotto, where the 
 Virgin is said to have lived when she fled from 
 Herod. This spot is believed to have been her first 
 resting place, but it is at Sioot that she is supposed 
 to have resided. The woodwork about this church 
 is exquisite; the reredos and chancel screen are of 
 inlaid mosaics of wood and ivory. There were no 
 candles on the altar. I cannot say for certain how 
 many steps there were leading to it, but I think 
 there were more than three; we did not obtain a 
 distinct view of them, for the hajkel or chancel screen 
 was very high and the carving close. There was 
 only one altar ; beneath it was a grotto into which 
 we descended by a short flight of steps : there is a 
 recess in it, in which we were told the Virgin Mary 
 had slept ; Khalil was surprised at our not kissing it 
 as he and the guide both did, and was still more 
 astonished when we told him that we do not pray to 
 
 * Heeren's Asiatic Researches. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 187 
 
 the Blessed Virgin as the Copts do. The Mussul- 
 mans also revere her as the mother of the " Prophet 
 Isa,"* and call her el Sitt Mariam, the Lady 
 Mary. 
 
 The Copts are not now maltreated and despised by 
 the government as they were in former years. Some 
 of them have even been raised to the rank of Beys. 
 Before the accession of Mohammed Ali neither the 
 Copts nor Jews were allowed to ride horses in Egypt ; 
 but this restriction has at length been withdrawn. 
 Among the many persecutions to which they have 
 been subject the most violent was in the beginning of 
 the fourteenth century, in the reign of Mohammed 
 Ibn Kaloon, when most of their churches were de- 
 stroyed, and permission was granted to every Mussul- 
 man to plunder and murder any Christian he might 
 chance to meet. The Sultan also caused it to be 
 proclaimed that any Copt found wearing a white 
 turban or riding a horse should be killed, that they 
 were to wear blue turbans, and ride neither horses 
 nor mules but only asses, and then with their faces 
 to the animals' tails, and that they should not enter 
 a bath, unless with a bell suspended round their 
 necks. 
 
 Now, however, these degradations are unheard of, 
 
 * Jesus. 
 
188 WANUERINGS IN 
 
 and the dress of the Copts is similar to that of the 
 Moslem Egyptians, excepting in the colours they 
 wear, which are always black or dark grey. Their 
 turbans, especially, are of a different " build," and 
 always black. The Copt women veil their faces, not 
 only in public, but also in the house when any men, 
 except near relations, are present. The unmarried 
 ladies, and females of the lower order generally ap- 
 pear in public with the white veil, but the black is 
 worn by the more respectable of the married ladies. 
 The Copts are generally employed as secretaries or 
 accountants, and are often seen with a brass ink- 
 stand, or inkhorn, in their girdles. They pay the 
 same taxes as the other fellahs*, but enjoy an im- 
 munity for which they are much envied by most 
 Moslems. They are not liable to be taken for 
 military service, as no Moslem Prince would honour 
 a Christian by employing him to fight against a true 
 believer; they are therefore unconnected with the 
 heart-rending scenes which are taking place in 
 front of our boat at this moment, where files of 
 chained conscripts are going in and out of the 
 Grhizeh Barracks, opposite to which we are moored : 
 the wailing and weeping of the wives and mothers of 
 these men, especially when a boat-load of them starts 
 
 * Peasants. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 189 
 
 for Alexandria, is most distressing, and cawasses 
 with heavy kurbashes' (whips made of hippopotamus 
 hide), which they apply indiscriminately, prevent 
 them approaching the water's edge. The streets 
 and bazaars in the neighbourhood are full of these 
 wretched women, sitting in rows upon the ground, 
 screaming, wailing, covering their heads with dust, 
 tearing their hair, and making every demonstration 
 of grief ! The levying of soldiers has become a terror 
 in all Egypt ; hence mothers mutilate their children 
 in different ways to save them from the conscription. 
 Each village is required to furnish its quota, and an 
 opportunity is given to select the men by lot. To a 
 people of strong domestic affections, as are the lower 
 orders in this country, to be seized by force to 
 fight battles for a governor whose interests they have 
 not at heart, and whose name is only associated in 
 their minds with that of the tax-gatherer, — to shed 
 their blood to win laurels for such a ruler, is to them 
 neither consolation nor glory, and certainly the 
 manner of recruiting can give them no favour- 
 able ideas of the service they are entering. On a 
 sudden, without warning or preparation, a company 
 of soldiers descends upon a peaceful village, and 
 seizing all the young and vigorous men, drags them 
 off in chains to serve in the army of the pasha! 
 
190 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 Hence thousands put out the right eye in order to 
 avoid a similar fate, and when Mohammed Ali, with 
 his usual shrewdness, defeated their object by forming 
 a regiment of one-eyed men, they maimed their right 
 hands also. 
 
 One seldom sees a man whole in all his limbs ; one 
 or more fingers are frequently chopped off, and, as is 
 well known, almost every Arab is blind of one or both 
 eyes. The right, as above stated, is in many cases put 
 out in infancy, and ophthalmia, the prevailing scourge 
 of Egypt, often deprives the remaining one of sight ; 
 but more disgusting than all is the sight of flies feed- 
 ing upon the diseased eyes, a misery that multiplies 
 itself; it is against the native prejudice to molest 
 them, so they remain, and nine tenths of the children 
 one sees are covered with these pertinacious flies, to 
 which they seem perfectly indifferent. Thus, accus- 
 tomed to his own peculiar spot, the fly makes its 
 way straight to one's own eye, whence he is speedily 
 dislodged, as the European naturally fears that the 
 seeds of the loathsome disease may be communicated 
 by these winged torments. 
 
 In vain does the traveller start from England well 
 armed with quassia, papier tue-mouche, and a variety 
 of professedly infallible means of destroying flies; 
 they are worse than useless in a Nile boat. A saucer 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 191 
 
 full of quassia on a bright summer's day saves you in 
 England from the inconvenience of a score or two of 
 flies, but here, where their name is legion, where 
 the more you kill them, the more they seem to 
 increase, where every effort to lessen their numbers 
 appears to endow them with a miraculous power 
 of returning in fresh swarms, one's best plan is to 
 live and let live. If one does kill them it is merely 
 out of spite, for it does not afford the slightest relief. 
 If the traveller is of a blood-thirsty disposition, he 
 will find night the best time for putting his plans 
 into execution. During the hours of darkness his 
 enemies, tired with their day's amusement, retire to 
 rest on the ceiling of his saloon ; then armed with a 
 pan of charcoal he may pass it onoe or twice along 
 the ceiling, and he will have the satisfaction of hearing 
 a phizzing whizzing noise, perhaps a muttered sleepy 
 imprecation upon his murderous propensities, and 
 till morning the room will be clear ; then, as the first 
 rays of sunlight shoot into the sky, this never dying 
 plague of Egypt returns in full foroe ! * 
 
 March 21st — Here we are established at Shepheard's 
 British Hotel, and have bid farewell to our comfortable 
 
 * I have heard of travellers fastening nets in front of the doors 
 and windows in their boat ; I should be inclined to adopt the sug- 
 gestion " next time." 
 
192 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 dahabieh, which has been our home for nine weeks. 
 It was with great regret that we parted from it, and 
 took leave of our crew, with whom in spite of occa- 
 sional squabbles and uproariousness we have had 
 every reason to be satisfied. They all came up to 
 the hotel to-day, and my brother gave them each a 
 bakshish, of a few piastres, which we had counted 
 out and arranged in small parcels ; it is customary 
 to give the rais a portion equal to two men's, and the 
 steersman a sum equal to a man and a half. The 
 majestic comportment that distinguished rais Sherif 
 did not forsake him to the last, and he waved his 
 well-formed and symmetrical hand as he gracefully 
 took leave of us. To him and to Hassan the steers- 
 man, we gave certificates of a knowledge of the river. 
 To Ibrahim, a very ugly Nubian, was allotted the 
 sum of five piastres extra ; having been considered 
 the most trustworthy of the crew, he had been 
 deputed by Khalil to go for milk every morning, 
 and in short to be the performer of various odd 
 jobs ; he was the wag of the party, and was a great 
 hand at improvising jocose songs. 
 
 Before closing the history of our boat life, I feel it 
 incumbent on me to introduce the reader to the crew 
 who have safely guarded the " Sphinx " through all 
 the perils of the Nile voyage, and who have now 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 193 
 
 landed us for the second time in Cairo the Magnificent. 
 Age and infirmity must have the first place on the list, 
 and Mustapha*s grey beard claims the pre-eminence, 
 but his character has been unmarked by any distin- 
 guishing flashes of genius, and we set him down as 
 old and ugly ! Hassan, surnamed Jild Afreet, anglicd, 
 Devil's Skin, next claims attention. He is blind of 
 one eye and squints with the other, is humpbacked, 
 and is of a fine chamois-leather colour, so his personal 
 appearance is decidedly against him, but we have 
 found him very clean, not very quarrelsome, and 
 particularly attentive to ladies. He was the only 
 one of the crew who could boast a knowledge of the 
 English language, and his vocabulary, which con- 
 sisted of two words " Good morning " and " Grood 
 night," was in requisition on every opportunity. 
 Said Achmed, who rejoiced in the title of Hadji 
 (pilgrim), thereby showing that he had kissed the 
 Caaba at Mecca, had been a tailor in the pasha's 
 army, and, when not otherwise engaged, might be 
 seen diligently stitching at his own or his neighbour's 
 caftan* 
 
 Ibrahim I have already described; he was the 
 songster of the crew, and Mohammed, a young Nu- 
 
 * Long blue shirt open in front. 
 
 
194 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 bian, thrummed an accompaniment on his ever ready 
 tarrabukka. Isa* is a hard worker, and his only- 
 peculiarity is that he is always arrayed in robes of 
 spotless white, and, when rigged out for an excursion 
 to a town, looks quite a gentleman ! He has two 
 eyes, but only possesses nine fingers; Nimr, on the 
 contrary, has ten fingers, but only one eye, i.e. one 
 seeing eye ; his name signifies " tiger ; " he is a quiet 
 individual, but has a sheepish look about him ; Nusr 
 is cross and illtempered ; he has only eight fingers, 
 and not much more than half an eye ; Houssein is a 
 quiet creature who works well, and very seldom 
 speaks ; Jad, who completes the number, is a tall lean 
 lanky youth, who has likewise escaped conscription 
 by the loss of sundry fingers. 
 
 But here we are at the hotel, and the " Sphinx " 
 and her crew, and all the pleasant as well as unplea- 
 sant incidents connected with her, must be ranked 
 among the things that have been. The Maltese cross 
 that has waved so long at our mast-head, now hangs 
 in front of the fireplace in our sitting-room, remind- 
 ing us of the breezes that bore us on so swiftly, and of 
 the gales that at times impeded all progress. But 
 windy nights, and windless days, noisy rowing and wea- 
 risome tracking are not remembered now. Already 
 
 * The Arabic for Jesus. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 195 
 
 '* Distance lends enchantment to the view," and casts 
 a magic veil over the petty annoyances, so keenly 
 felt at the moment, but which now tend to heighten 
 the relish with which we look back on the past, even 
 as the lighter parts of a picture are thrown out by 
 the darker in more vivid and agreeable contrast : and 
 every pleasure is thus enhanced. 
 
 Who would think of difficulties or obstacles when 
 standing by moonlight amongst the ruins of the 
 Hundred-gated City, as grand, and far more impres- 
 sive in the vastness of her desolation, than in the 
 summit of her pride, — where the deathlike silence of 
 the Tomb of Ages is only broken by the dismal 
 hooting of the owl, and the echoes of palaces, which 
 were wont to be waked with the shout of mirth and 
 triumph, are now only mocked by the jackal's un- 
 earthly scream ! Few and far between are such scenes 
 as these ; seldom do such moments occur in the life- 
 time of a man, but they do not the sooner fade from 
 his recollection. There they remain, treasured in 
 the deep recesses of memory's holiest shrine, whence 
 they may, nevertheless, be evoked by a gentle effort, 
 and will cause a thrill by the vividness of their 
 presence. 
 
 o 2 
 
196 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Scene in the Desert. — Suez Canal Question. — A Dejeuner. — 
 Visit to Ismail Pasha's Hateem. — Tombs of the Pashas. — Tombs 
 of the Mamelukes. — Arab Funeral — Islamism. 
 
 We drove a couple of miles on the road to Suez this 
 afternoon to see a review of the 11th Hussars. It 
 was a strange and rare sight to find so many British 
 soldiers in that out of the way spot ; on " that narrow 
 neck of land " which, as the geography books tell us, 
 unites Asia and Africa ; the " narrow neck " consists 
 of a sandy plain about eighty miles in length, over 
 which thousands of our fellow-countrymen yearly pass 
 in light vans drawn by four horses or mules, which ac- 
 complish the distance in sixteen hours ; this being the 
 only part of their journey which can be called " over- 
 land." But to return to the scene before us ; on one 
 side the desert extended in a dead flat as far as the eye 
 could see ; to the right the range of Mokattam hills, 
 of a deep red colour, shut in the view, and behind 
 us the domes and minarets of Cairo towered among 
 the palm-trees. There were open carriages from all 
 the hotels, full of ladies as gaily dressed as if the 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 197 
 
 desert had been Hyde Park, and that broad beaten 
 track to Suez their daily resort. Their bright dresses 
 and fashionable bonnets contrasted strangely with 
 some Turkish ladies, who were curiously peeping 
 from under their black silk habarahs*, and looking 
 very hot and uncomfortable in their closed carriages. 
 There were numbers of Turks with prancing 
 steeds, and gay horsetrappings. There were Eng- 
 lish, Germans, Greeks, Frenchmen, and Italians on 
 horseback and donkeyback ; there were Copts in their 
 sober black garments ; Jews with their unmistakable 
 Hebrew noses ; Persians with high black head-dresses ; 
 Armenians with strange coiffures which looked like 
 flower-pots reversed ; besides crowds of Arabs, some 
 on foot, some mounted, whose many-coloured robes, 
 bright red tarbooshes, and snowy white or dark green 
 turbans added to the brilliancy of the scene. All 
 had come to gaze at the regiment of Giaours, some 
 no doubt to curse them, some to laugh at them, some 
 to revile them, but none to wish them GoD-speed. 
 An Eastern mob gives no outward demonstrations of 
 approbation or contempt; they smoke their pipes, 
 and look on unmoved ; otherwise the splendid regi- 
 ment before them would elsewhere have elicited 
 general admiration ; both men and horses were in first- 
 
 * The walking-dress of an Eastern lady, 
 o 3 
 
198 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 rate condition, and performed their evolutions in 
 grand style. 
 
 March 22nd. — We rode to-day to see the tombs 
 of the Salateen, which are well worth a visit. The 
 domes are beautifully sculptured, and look as if a 
 network of stone had been thrown over them. The 
 tracery round the windows is very elaborate, and the 
 patterns of the mullions are more varied than any I 
 have seen in Europe. The stained glass with which 
 they were once filled was either broken or taken away 
 by the French. The floors of the mosques which are 
 attached to the tombs are of inlaid marble mosaic 
 work. 
 
 The band of the Hussars played in front of the 
 hotel this afternoon ; it is a very good one, and we 
 enjoyed hearing some music again, but unfortunately 
 we had some visitors, and among them was Mons. 
 F. de L., who however interested us very much by 
 explaining to us at some length the French canal 
 question. I suppose every one knows the rights 
 and the wrongs of this case; how, if it had not 
 been for French influence at the Ottoman Court, 
 we should have had a railway open to Suez long 
 ago. It is finished now from Alexandria to Cairo 
 with the exception of three bridges*; but the 
 
 * These bridges have been erected since this was written. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 199 
 
 French want a canal cut through the isthmus, and 
 oppose our railway as much as they can. There are 
 many reasons against the canal, in the first place the 
 enormous expense its execution would entail. If it 
 had been undertaken in the 19th century before 
 Christ instead of after, it would have cost far less, 
 and been much more promptly executed ; but even 
 Eameses the Great would not have carried it to 
 Alexandria on account of spoiling that harbour, and 
 he would have found the north coast then, as now, 
 very dangerous for navigation. Another obstacle to 
 its completion is that no large ship can approach 
 Suez within five miles. 
 
 Said Pasha has at length given orders for the con- 
 struction of the railway, the French having come to 
 the conclusion that it will facilitate their canal, but 
 as it has been put into the hands of French engineers, 
 there is no saying when it will be finished. The 
 permission, however, had not been given at the time 
 of M. de L.'s visit to us, and, as I said before, he was 
 full of this canal question of which he has the charge. 
 He calls himself "ministre plenipotentiaire," but it 
 would puzzle him to say to what court he belongs. 
 He was minister here during the republic, and having 
 ingratiated himself with the pasha, he has a fine 
 
 O 4 
 
200 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 palace to live in, and gives dejeuners and dinner parties 
 at His Highness's expense. To one of these dejeuners 
 he asked us to come to-morrow, and afterwards to go 
 and see Ismail Pasha's hareem. 
 
 March 23rd. — Mons. de L.'s carriage came for 
 ns this morning, and we proceeded in it to the 
 Hotel d'Orient to pick up Mons. de B., the French 
 minister to Persia, and the Comtesse de Gr. his 
 secretary's wife, who are on their way to Teheran. 
 She was the only lady at the dejeuner besides our- 
 selves ; there were about twenty gentlemen, all French 
 but two ; our own consul-general was there, and also 
 Clot and Linant Bey whose names are so well known 
 in Egypt. The dejeuner passed off very pleasantly ; it 
 lasted till one o'clock, and then we all sat a la turque 
 on a high divan and drank coffee and smoked chi- 
 bouques till two, when a French lady arrived who was 
 to act as interpreter at the hareem. 
 
 Mons. de L. who is a great friend of Ismail 
 Pasha's had obtained leave for all the gentlemen to 
 see the palace, so we met them there again, and 
 walked through the most magnificently furnished 
 apartments I ever saw. The pasha's ladies had been 
 turned into a private room, that the gentlemen might 
 be admitted; we learnt afterwards from them that 
 they had seen us all pass; they are not forbidden 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 201 
 
 to look at men, though they themselves may not be 
 seen. 
 
 One of the largest rooms we entered had fourteen 
 or sixteen medallions along the wall with Ismail 
 Pasha's initials traced in diamonds upon each. The 
 letters appeared from eight to ten inches high ! Every- 
 thing was in the same style. It would be impossible 
 to detail the gorgeousness of all we saw. Every room 
 had different hangings, but all of the richest silks, 
 and in keeping with the rest of the furniture. In 
 some there were soft and beautiful carpets, and in 
 others the floor was of inlaid marble. In many 
 there were elegant fountains, and the ceilings in all 
 were of polished wood, arranged in mosaics, or exhi- 
 biting the grain in beautiful combinations. When 
 the gentlemen were securely locked out, at which 
 they grumbled not a little, Ismail Pasha's wives and 
 attendant ladies were introduced, and we were con- 
 ducted by them into one of these lovely apartments. 
 
 The two princesses are Circassians. They were 
 bought as slaves when fourteen or fifteen years old. 
 They are both under twenty, and one of them is very 
 lovely. Large, dark, soft, melting eyes, shaded by 
 long black eyelashes, a well formed nose and mouth, 
 teeth of pearly whiteness, and an exquisite com- 
 plexion perfectly realised all we had ever conceived 
 
202 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 of a Circassian beauty ; the other princess was younger 
 and her features were equally faultless, but she lacked 
 the sparkling animation of the elder. Hers was a 
 sad though far from uncommon history. She had 
 had two lovely children, and had lost them both in 
 one night, — no rare occurrence in a Turkish hareem, 
 but she had never recovered from the shock ; she is, 
 we were told, the favourite with Ismail, for the time 
 being I suppose, but neitherof the wives seems jealous 
 of the other. 
 
 Sweet-meats, made by the ladies of the hareem, 
 were first handed round, and pipes and coffee followed. 
 We were surprised to find the pipes and coffee cups 
 less handsome than those we had seen in Zenob 
 Khanem's hareem, everything else being on a much 
 grander scale. The Comtesse de Gr. was so en- 
 chanted with everything she saw, that it was six 
 o'clock before we could persuade her it was time to 
 come away. The music in this hareem, though 
 deafening and discordant, was infinitely superior to 
 any we had heard in Egypt. There was a greater 
 variety of musical instruments ; there were three flat 
 " kanoons," or dulcimers, more agreeable to look at 
 than to listen to ; they were made of veneered walnut 
 wood, inlaid with mother of pearl ; there were also 
 some "'oods," or lutes; this has been, for many 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 203 
 
 centuries, the instrument most commonly used by 
 the best Arab musicians. Its name, (the original 
 signification of which is "wood") with the article 
 " el " prefixed to it, is the source whence are derived 
 the terms liuto in Italian, luth in French, lute in 
 English &c. *; there was also a hautboy, a tambourine, 
 and a tarrabukka. 
 
 Four girls about ten years of age, and another about 
 six dressed like a boy in scarlet clothes, were made 
 to dance for at least two hours. I thought the poor 
 children would have dropped from exhaustion, for it 
 requires no small degree of physical force to keep up 
 the shaking of the limbs which seems to constitute 
 the chief part of an Eastern dance. f Their last per- 
 formance was to turn over and over on their hands 
 like a wheel, the one dressed as a boy going head over 
 heels. These latter evolutions delighted the princesses 
 very much. Many of the slaves were old and ugly, 
 and among the younger there was only one who had 
 the least pretensions to good looks, and she in con- 
 sequence enjoyed a share of Ismail Pasha's affections. 
 
 * Lane's Modern Egyptians, vol. ii. chap. 18. 
 
 f Mr. Andersson, in his late work on Lake Njarai, informs us 
 that the natives of those parts imitate the movements of wild animals 
 when they dance ; if this be the case in N. Africa also, the best idea 
 to give of the principal " step," would be shown by a Newfoundland 
 dog on coming out of the water when he is shaking himself dry ! 
 
204 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 The elder princess was most affable and unaffected. 
 She sent out one of the slaves to put on a habarah 
 for our amusement, and we were allowed to examine 
 it ; it is a clumsy inconvenient dress made of some 
 dark-coloured silk, generally black, and is always 
 worn out of doors ; it is very full, and when its wearer 
 is seen on the top of a donkey it has been not inaptly 
 compared to a balloon. The lady who had been 
 desired to gratify our curiosity pretended to have 
 arrived on a visit, and, being introduced to us, asked 
 who we were, and after a few compliments and salams 
 took herself off. The princess was delighted with 
 this little charade ; it no doubt afforded her conver- 
 sation for a week afterwards. 
 
 Before we took our leave we were offered some 
 violet sherbet, which was I am afraid wasted on some 
 of the party, but Madame de Gr. of course appreciated 
 it as fully as everything else connected with the esta- 
 blishment. The princess and all her attendants ac- 
 companied us down the staircase ; this was as may be 
 imagined a fairy-like scene. The stairs were of marble, 
 the walls and ceiling painted in the gayest colours, the 
 balustrades and chandeliers resplendent with gilding; 
 and on looking up and seeing these figures gliding 
 about, dressed in robes of every hue, glittering with 
 gold and silver, and many of them sparkling with 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 205 
 
 diamonds, the effect was in a word purely Oriental ; 
 it would have been worth going miles to see ; it was 
 altogether too bright to believe it real. 
 
 The butterfly crowd accompanied us to the last 
 step ; here we took our leave of them, and an iron 
 door doublelocked and barred separated us from the 
 enchanted ground. We asked Madame de Gr. if she 
 would like to remain on the other side of that barrier ; 
 and she declared that nothing would give her greater 
 pleasure, that she would never wish to see it opened 
 again ; that it was her beau ideal of a happy life, to 
 live just in that kind of way ; that on their return up- 
 stairs they would talk about their visitors, and of all 
 they had said. And to-morrow, we inquired, what 
 will they do then ? Why to-morrow they will talk 
 of us again, and wonder if we are coming back ! In 
 short it was impossible to persuade her that she 
 would soon tire of such a life ; after all we had neither 
 of us tried it, and her word might be as good as 
 ours. 
 
 March 25th, Sunday. — It is rather amusing at 
 breakfast on Sunday morning to hear the various 
 conjectures made round the table, as to what parts of 
 the service the congregation will appear at. Prayers 
 were read to-day by the chaplain from Aden, who is re- 
 siding at Cairo just now, writing an Arabic dictionary. 
 
206 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 Like most Englishmen in the East, he wears a mous- 
 tache and beard, which when combined with a 
 surplice give the wearer a venerable and patriarchal 
 appearance. 
 
 March 26th, — We set out this afternoon to see the 
 tombs of the late pashas and their families, which are 
 very gorgeous. Over the graves, an edifice divided 
 into several apartments has been erected. The 
 floors are covered with Persian carpets, and the 
 windows darkened with green curtains, and before 
 each tomb were two or three men chanting the Koran. 
 The tombs themselves are of marble and consist of a 
 kind of sarcophagus upon an oblong basement of 
 sandstone; a short pillar surmounted by a turban 
 sculptured in marble is placed at the head, and a 
 similar one at the feet. These columns, as well as 
 the sarcophagi, are covered with Arabic or Turkish 
 inscriptions in letters of gold. The walls of the apart- 
 ments are of marble, and scrolls of texts from the 
 Koran are emblazoned upon them. The tombs are 
 ornamented with different degrees of magnificence, 
 but when it is considered that these are all the re- 
 latives of a private soldier, who by his single arm and 
 energetic spirit, followed up by his signal talents 
 but comparatively unenlightened mind, has estab- 
 lished a practically independent kingdom, to continue 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 207 
 
 hereditary in his family, and when all the disadvan- 
 tages arising from want of education, the opposition 
 of powerful and civilised nations, and many other 
 causes with which he had to contend are taken into 
 consideration, it is impossible to think of Mohammed 
 Ali otherwise than as one of the greatest men of his 
 day. 
 
 We next proceeded to the tombs of the mamelukes, 
 which are in bad repair, and thence to the tombs of 
 the caliphs ; some of these are very magnificent, and 
 are among the finest buildings in or near Cairo. 
 They are built like mosques, which in fact they are, 
 and have generally a couple of beautiful minarets. 
 They have a spacious court inside, which is entered 
 by a gate ornamented in the Arabian style, and the 
 tomb of the caliph is in some part of the building 
 surrounding the court. Other parts of it are inhabited 
 partly by the people who keep the mosque in order, 
 and who are maintained by some endowment left 
 generally by the tenant of the tomb, who was also in 
 his life-time the founder of the mosque. 
 
 The cemetery of Cairo is a wild desolate place, ex- 
 tending a long way beyond the city walls on the 
 northern side. It is all desert, and not a human 
 habitation is in sight. As we were leaving it this 
 afternoon, we met a funeral coming from the town, at 
 
208 WANDERINGS IK 
 
 a very quick pace. It was that of a poor woman, who 
 had died the night before. First came six men called 
 " Yemeneeyeh," most of them blind, chanting in a 
 melancholy tone the profession of faith ; then followed 
 three or four schoolboys, one of them carrying a copy 
 of the Koran on a desk, and all chanting in a higher 
 and livelier voice, and in a totally different key to 
 the old men, a poem descriptive of the Day of Judg- 
 ment. Then came the bier carried head foremost by 
 four men, who were continually relieved by some of 
 the relations. Casual passers-by often take part in 
 this service, which is considered highly meritorious. 
 Behind the bier came the female mourners with 
 their hair dishevelled, and their dress disordered, 
 rending the air with their lamentations. They each 
 carried a dark blue strip of cloth, which they held 
 over their shoulders, and twirled round their heads, 
 sometimes tearing it, and occasionally burying their 
 faces in it. The cries of the women, the lively chant- 
 ing of the youths, and the deep tones of the old men, 
 composed a strange discord. We were very anxious 
 to go with them, so we let them pass us and then 
 followed at full trot till we came to an enclosure 
 where there was a large gate, which the people shut 
 in our faces, declaring that the infidels should go no 
 further. Khalil upon this insisted that we should, 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 209 
 
 for it is always his aim to appear to slight his country- 
 men, and he delights in taking us where we ought not to 
 go ; there was, however, such an uproar that we would 
 gladly have given in, but to get Khalil back was im- 
 possible. We had by this time dismounted in the 
 very thick of the crowd, and Khalil had left us to look 
 for an old man, the guardian of the place, whom he 
 at last found, and to whom he introduced us, pledging 
 himself as security that we should do no harm. One 
 of his objects in getting us into this enclosure was to 
 show us his mother's grave, in front of which he made 
 two little boys squat down, and chant some prayers 
 from the Koran ; he gave them five paras each, equal 
 to a farthing of English money ; this display of filial 
 piety was no doubt for our benefit. 
 
 But to return to the funeral. By this time the 
 bier was on the ground ; it was a wooden case, or 
 rather a flat piece of wood with slanting sides that 
 formed a cover to it. At the head was a wooden 
 pillar called a shadid, round which and round the 
 bier was wound a scarlet shawl, the same that the 
 deceased had worn at her wedding. This and one or 
 two other shawls the relatives now unwound ; in the 
 case of a rich person they would have been torn, lest 
 their value might tempt any one to violate the tomb ; 
 but as the parties were probably very poor, they were 
 
210 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 taken back with them. In a rich funeral no delay 
 would now have occurred, as the tomb would have 
 been prepared beforehand, but in the present instance 
 five or six men set to work to scoop a hole in the sand 
 with their hands. The corpse was that of a very tall 
 person, but the grave was not of equal length. The 
 Arabs generally bury their dead in a sitting position, 
 with the face turned towards Mecca, that they may 
 the more easily converse with the two angels Munkar 
 and Nekeer who are believed to visit them on the 
 night after the funeral ; the soul is supposed to re- 
 main with the body during that night, and is required 
 to make a confession of its faith to these two angels. * 
 The noisy grief of two of the daughters of the de- 
 ceased was most painful to witness. They threw them- 
 selves on the ground beside the bier, uttering the most 
 piercing shrieks. One of them flung herself on the 
 half-dug grave, and had to be removed by the men. 
 I do not think from the rank of the mourners that 
 there were any hired women, but the demonstrations 
 of hopeless sorrow were very affecting. They now 
 proceeded to lift the corpse into the grave, but not 
 before all the relatives by turns had kissed the bier. 
 We did not like to remain any longer, for we felt it 
 
 * Lane's Modern Egyptians, vol. iii. chap. 28, where there is a 
 detailed account of Moslem funerals. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 211 
 
 was unkind to hurt their feelings by staying if they 
 did not wish it, and, as they had all crowded round 
 the grave, we could see nothing more without pressing 
 much nearer than they would have allowed us to do 
 with impunity. So we persuaded Khalil to help us 
 on to our donkeys again, and set off, followed no 
 doubt by a variety of imprecations which were how- 
 ever lost upon us. Khalil says they put a flat stone 
 upon the body before they fill up the grave. This is 
 to prevent the wild dogs and jackals from getting to it. 
 It is amusing to see how Khalil ridicules the 
 customs of his country; I suppose he hopes to win 
 favour in our eyes by so doing. I remember, at 
 Thebes, his pointing to a group of men and women 
 on the sculptures, saying they were sensible people 
 like the English, and did not hide their faces like the 
 Arabs ! We rather congratulated ourselves on having 
 got away so safely, for I fancy we were the first 
 Christian ladies who were ever present at a Moham- 
 medan funeral, or at any rate the first who have gone 
 unprotected by any gentleman ! On Friday the ceme- 
 tery is full of women, who go to pray and weep at 
 the sepulchres of the dead, and the custom then is to 
 throw on the tombs a sort of herb which the Arab 
 call zihan, and which is our sweet basil.* 
 
 * Lettres de Maillet. 
 P 2 
 
212 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 We returned to Cairo by the Citadel, where we 
 waited till sunset in hopes of having a fine view, but 
 we were disappointed, for the evening was rather 
 hazy. We again went into the new mosque of Mo- 
 hammed Ali which we had before visited in December. 
 The inside is quite finished, but the exterior decora- 
 tions are still in progress. 
 
 Impressive as the scene from the Citadel always is, 
 it is doubly so at this hour, when the glorious beams 
 from the departing sun shed a golden lustre over the 
 ancient city, and the subdued and mellowed light 
 softens the outline of the range of Libyan hills in the 
 distance; as we stepped out upon the Terrace, the sun 
 sank below the horizon, and instantaneously from the 
 countless minarets beneath us arose, above the busy 
 hum of the noisy crowd, a voice from each proclaim- 
 ing, "GrOD is most great! there is no deity but GtOd! 
 and Mohammed is His Apostle!" 
 
 A few moments' silence, and again the voices were 
 heard far and near bidding all the faithful leave their 
 worldly occupations, and join in prayer; and at that 
 minute, if we had been passing through the bazaars, 
 we should have seen, here and there, a net hung in 
 front of the merchant's wares, as a sign that he is at 
 the mosque, and a surer safeguard for his property 
 than a patent lock and key ; or we should have seen 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 213 
 
 tbe pious Moslem, with slippers off and carpet 
 spread before him, heedless of the stir and tumult 
 round him, going through his devotions with the 
 greatest composure. If we had been riding through 
 the fields, there, as the sun set, the peasant would 
 have laid down his spade or plough, and turning to- 
 wards Mecca would have gone through the same forms. 
 In our own daliabieh it would have been the same, 
 and those anions the crew who ever did trouble them- 
 selves with their devotions would have been seen offer- 
 ing up their prayers at this moment. 
 
 In short, hollow and devotionless as the Moham- 
 medan religion may be, there is one thing that strikes 
 a stranger from the western world when it presents 
 itself to his observation, viz. that its followers do not 
 seem ashamed of it ; of course it is well known that 
 there are many in the length and breadth of the land 
 who scarcely ever pray, or in fact have any idea of the 
 meaning of the word religion, still, among those who 
 do profess it, it seems to be the primary object in life; 
 other things are made subservient to it. If the hour 
 for prayer arrives, no occupation seems so pressing 
 as to oblige them to delay it. Their Prophet com- 
 mands, and they obey. In the quiet country as in the 
 busy thoroughfare, in the sandy desert with no hu- 
 man eye beholding him, as in the crowded streets 
 
 P 3 
 
214 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 amidst a multitude of gazers, Jews, Turks, and In- 
 fidels, at the time appointed the devout Mussulman 
 communes with his God. Mohammed was strenuous 
 in enforcing the importance and efficacy of prayer. 
 " Angels," said he, " come among you both by night 
 and day; after which those of the night ascend to 
 heaven, and God asks them, how they left His crea- 
 tures. We found them, say they, at their prayers, 
 and we left them at their prayers."* 
 
 " The truth of Mahommed's Creed," says Carlyle 
 in his 'Lectures on Heroes,' ee is embedded in por- 
 tentous error and falsehood ; but the truth of it 
 makes it be believed, not the falsehood : it succeeded 
 by its truth. Out of all that rubbish of Arab idola- 
 tries, argumentative theologies, traditions, subtle- 
 ties, rumours, and hypotheses of Greeks and Jews, 
 with their idle wire-drawings, this wild man of the 
 Desert, with his wild sincere heart, earnest as death 
 and life, with his great flashing natural eye-sight had 
 seen into the kernel of the matter. Idolatry is no- 
 thing ; these wooden idols of yours, 6 ye rub them with 
 oil and wax, and the flies stick on them,' — these are 
 wood I tell you! They can do nothing for you; they 
 are an impotent blasphemous pretence : a horror and 
 abomination, if ye knew them. God alone is ; God 
 
 * Life of Mahommed, by Washington Irving. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 215 
 
 alone has power ; He made us, He can kill us, and 
 keep us alive : 'Allah akbar, God is great.' Under- 
 stand that His will is best for you ; that howsoever 
 sore to flesh and blood, you will find it the wisest, 
 best ; you are bound to take it so ; in this world, and 
 in the next, you have no other thing that you 
 can do!" 
 
 Five times in the course of the day, did the Pro- 
 phet command his followers to pray. At sunset, or 
 rather about four minutes later ; at nightfall, when 
 the evening has closed and it is quite dark ; at day- 
 break ; at noon, or a few minutes later when the sun 
 has begun to decline ; and fifthly, about mid-time 
 between noon and nightfall. Each period of prayer 
 ends when the next commences, excepting that of 
 daybreak, which ends at sunrise. The Prophet would 
 not have his followers commence their prayers at 
 sunrise, nor exactly at noon or sunset, because, he 
 said, infidels worshipped the sun at such times.* 
 
 * Lane's Modern Egyptians, vol. i. chap. 3. 
 
 P 4 
 
216 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 CHAPTEK X. 
 
 The City of On. — Bazaars. — Street Sounds. — Shepheard's Hotel. 
 — Alexandria. — Departure from the Land of Ham. 
 
 March 27th. — My mother and I were accompanied 
 this afternoon by two of our Nile friends to Helio- 
 polis. It was a melancholy reflection that this 
 was the last haunt of the Ancient Egyptians we 
 were to visit, the last spot consecrated by the 
 mighty genius of the Past which it was to be our 
 lot to tread on. Heliopolis is situated about eight 
 miles from Cairo ; the ride led us through a richly 
 cultivated country, intersected with numerous small 
 canals, supplied with water from the river by a 
 succession of sakias or water-wheels. Near the 
 site of the famous Temple of the Sun we turned a 
 short distance to the right to see an ancient syca- 
 more, celebrated by tradition as that under which 
 the Holy Family rested when they fled from Herod 
 into Egypt. The tree bears marks of great anti- 
 quity, but whether it has really lived two thousand 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 217 
 
 years naturalists have not decided. Neither its vener- 
 able appearance, nor its supposed sanctity, has saved 
 it from the travellers' knife mania ! 
 
 On leaving this spot we perceived some shattered 
 sphinxes, and a few scattered blocks of granite, and 
 in front of us in a grove of orange-trees stood an 
 obelisk seventy feet in height. This was all that re- 
 mained to mark the site of the ancient city of On, 
 rich in Biblical as in classical associations, where 
 Joseph married Asenath, and where Moses was made 
 learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians, — where 
 flourishing priesthood was established, and schools 
 of learning throve, where a mysterious form of wor- 
 ship was in use, and where sacrifices were offered in 
 ages when other nations were yet unheard of! 
 
 This granite obelisk was dedicated to Phre, the god- 
 sun, to whom also was dedicated the city on the ruins 
 of which it stands, and which was termed in hierogly- 
 phics the city of Phre ; in Greek Heliopolis, the city of 
 the Sun; in Hebrew On and Beth-shemesh, the "House 
 of the Sun ; in pure Arabic Ain-es-shems, Fountain of 
 the Sun ; and in the colloquial language of the present 
 day Matareeyeh, fresh water, from the purity of its 
 springs.* The city was of small dimensions, but its 
 celebrity arose from the fact that in connection 
 
 * Gliddon's Ancient Egypt. 
 
218 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 with its temple there were schools of philosophy and 
 science under the care of the priests. It was in short 
 the university-city, the " Oxford of Aucient Egypt." 
 Here Moses, as the destined heir of Pharaoh's Daugh- 
 ter, was initiated into all the priestly ceremonies, to 
 which may be traced some of the rites and symbols 
 of the Jewish Priesthood. 
 
 Hither in later ages resorted philosophers and 
 mathematicians, physicians and historians, lawgivers 
 and architects ; the distinguished series of celebrated 
 men who are said to have carried Egyptian wisdom 
 to the Greeks begins as early as the mythical times.* 
 Danaus brought the first germ of civilisation from 
 Egypt to Argos, and Erectheus king of Athens was 
 considered by some to have been an Egyptian, and to 
 have taught the Eleusinian mysteries according to the 
 manner of the Egyptians. The holy singers of anti- 
 quity, Orpheus, Musaeus, Melampus, and Eumolpus 
 thence acquired their theological wisdom ; and even to 
 Homer himself Egypt was not unknown. 
 
 It was from Egypt that Lycurgus and Solon trans- 
 ferred to their fatherland the wise regulations they 
 became acquainted with. The houses in Heliopolis in 
 which Plato and the mathematician Eudoxus had lived 
 for thirteen years were shown to Strabo. Thales was 
 
 * Lepsius' Letters, &c. (Bolm) p. 383. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 219 
 
 instructed by the Egyptian priests, and, as it is expressly 
 said, beside them had no other teachers ; here he 
 became acquainted with the division of the year into 
 seasons, and into 365 days. Here also he learnt to 
 take the measurement of high objects, such as the 
 Pyramids, by their shadow at a particular hour of the 
 day. In this country Archimedes studied hydraulics 
 and invented his celebrated screw. Pythagoras was 
 a long time in Egypt, and in this city pondered the 
 great mysteries of the soul's existence and its rela- 
 tions to the Infinite ; his doctrine of the immortality 
 of the soul is distinctly referred by Herodotus to 
 Egypt, in which country, he says, this belief was first 
 maintained. To Heliopolis came the Father of His- 
 tory, and four centuries afterwards Diodorus and 
 Strabo followed in his steps to pore over sculptured 
 hieroglyphics, papyrus records, and dim traditions of 
 this ancient people, this f* first born of Time." 
 
 March 28th. — This afternoon was spent in riding 
 through the bazaars, an amusement which must be 
 known to be appreciated. Neither pen nor pencil 
 can do justice to the orientalism of the scene, so 
 strange and varied to European eyes, so deafening 
 and distracting to English ears. Every trade or ma- 
 nufacture has its proper quarter ; thus one comes into a 
 long street in which no wares but red and yellow 
 
220 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 slippers are to be seen, to another in which the dealers 
 in silks have taken up their quarters, or chibouque 
 makers in numbers sufficient, one would think, to 
 supply all Europe with the fragrant pipe. This 
 afternoon we made our way to the Otto of Eose 
 Bazaar, where as may be imagined the various odours 
 are delicious, and fill the air for some distance round 
 the bazaar. We bought some tiny bottles of the 
 otto; they contain about two drops apiece of the 
 thick oily liquid, which has to be warmed to extract 
 the whole sweetness. The Egyptian otto is very 
 good, but not to be compared to that made in India. 
 The merchant before filling your bottle tries the 
 quality, by dropping some on a piece of paper, and 
 holding it over the flame of a candle. If the mark 
 disappears entirely the otto is considered good. In 
 this bazaar extracts of sandal wood and jessamine 
 are also made, some of which we brought away 
 with us. 
 
 The gentleman who accompanied us this afternoon 
 being desirous of procuring a saddle for the journey he 
 was about to make across the desert, we proceeded to 
 the bazaar appropriated to the sale of saddles, where 
 we saw some beautiful specimens of those used by 
 pashas and wealthy citizens, covered with richly 
 embroidered velvet. It is to be supposed that the 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 221 
 
 people of the country must be best judges, but if I 
 were a horse about to cross the deserts of Arabia, I 
 think I should prefer an unostentatious English 
 saddle to the gay and gorgeous trappings which one 
 would think must be not only heavy but insupport- 
 ably hot; however, as has often been proved to be 
 best in many cases, " il faut faire a Kome ce que 
 font les Eomains," so our friend chose a moderately 
 brilliant Arab saddle, which, if he ever transports it 
 to his native land, will excite the wonder and ad- 
 miration of his untravelled groom. 
 
 The common saddle used by both men and women 
 for mules and donkeys is made of red leather ; it has 
 a large hump in front which is useful when the rider 
 has anything to carry, as a pitcher or jug. European 
 gentlemen always use them in Egypt, but the hotels 
 let out ladies' saddles at a shilling an hour. We 
 fortunately bought two side-saddles at Malta, which 
 we always used, and afterwards sold at Alexandria 
 on leaving the country. We were very glad of them 
 in Upper Egypt, for otherwise our donkey-boys' 
 garments or a blanket would have been our only 
 alternative ; bridles we rarely saw except in the large 
 villages. As Egyptian ladies ride en cavalier, they 
 use the same kind of saddles as the men. The higher 
 the rank of the rider, the higher the saddle that she 
 
222 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 uses; in fact ladies often appear insecurely seated, 
 but this is not the case, for the donkeys are well 
 girthed and sure-footed, and proceed at an easy am- 
 bling pace. The women of a hareem generally ride 
 out together in single file, one or two black slaves on 
 either side of them. They never walk abroad, unless 
 they have but a short distance to go. They have a 
 slow and shuffling gait, owing to their clumsy dress, 
 and to the difficulty of retaining the slippers on their 
 feet. Whether walking or riding they are regarded 
 with much respect in public ; no well-bred man would 
 stare at a lady; but, on the contrary, would look 
 another way when she is passing. 
 
 March 29th. — The 11th Hussars left Cairo yester- 
 day and began their march to Alexandria ; they en- 
 camped the first night near Grhizeh in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the Pyramids, having crossed the Nile in 
 a bridge of boats the previous evening. There was a 
 large assemblage of natives on the banks, and many 
 of the Europeans in Cairo went to see the sight ; we 
 were told this morning by a French gentleman who 
 is resident here and speaks Arabic fluently, that on 
 all sides he heard nothing but curses and maledictions 
 heaped upon their heads. I believe in one respect 
 our ignorance of Arabic is an advantage, as we are 
 spared hearing a great deal of abusive language which 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 223 
 
 we are informed is poured out upon us in the bazaars 
 as we pass. We often hear the word "Nasara," 
 Christian, coupled with various adjectives, possibly 
 not very complimentary. I suppose it is from their 
 frequent repetition that one becomes acquainted 
 very easily with the opprobrious epithets commonly 
 used ; some of the usual terms of abuse employed by 
 the Arabs are " kelb" dog, " kaffir" infidel, " sheytan" 
 devil; and many more too numerous to relate. So 
 strangely, too, has the title of the monarchs of Egypt 
 degenerated from its natural application that at the 
 present day, in Arabic, when one man calls another, 
 " ya Faraoon ebn Faraoon ! " Pharaoh, son of a 
 Pharaoh, he fancies that he has heaped upon his 
 head the ne-plus-ultra of opprobrium ! * "What 
 Solomon and the genii, and Alexander of Macedon, 
 are to other Moslem lands," says Burton f , " such is 
 Pharaoh to Egypt, the ( Ccesar aut diabolus ' of the 
 Nile ; the ichneumon becomes Pharaoh's cat ; even 
 the French were bitten and named it, le rat de 
 Pharaon ; the prickly pear, Pharaoh's fig ; certain 
 unapproachable sulphur springs, Pharaoh's bath ; a 
 mausoleum at Petra., Pharaoh's place. The mongrel 
 race now inhabiting the valley of the Nile is con- 
 
 * Gliddon's Ancient Egypt. 
 
 f Burton's Pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina, vol. i. 
 
224 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 temptuously named by Turks and Arabs, jins Faraoon, 
 or Pharaoh's breed; and a foul kind of vulture 
 (Vultur percnopterus), Pharaoh's hen. This abhor- 
 rence of Pharaoh is however confined to the vulgar 
 and the religious. The philosophers and mystics of 
 el Islam, in their admiration of his impious daring, 
 make him equal and even superior to Moses. Sahil, 
 a celebrated Sufi, declares that the secret of the soul 
 (i. e. its emanation) was first revealed when Pharaoh 
 declared himself a god." 
 
 Although, by his ignorance of Arabic, the European 
 traveller is saved from hearing an amount of improper 
 language which he would be sorry to have trans- 
 lated to him, yet, in the Babel of strange sounds 
 which salute his ear, he often regrets his inability to 
 understand their meaning. Among those who have 
 translated them for the benefit of the unlearned, 
 there is none who gives a better description of them 
 than the enterprising traveller above quoted, and I 
 cannot refrain from giving his description of Bazaar 
 sounds in his own words ; " You are bewildered," he 
 says, "by the variety of sounds; every one talks, 
 and talking here is always in extremes, either in a 
 whisper, or in a scream; gesticulation excites the 
 lungs, and strangers cannot persuade themselves that 
 men so converse without being or becoming furious. 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 225 
 
 All the street cries, too, are in the soprano key. ' 
 thy right ! thy left ! thy face ! thy heel ! 
 thy back, thy back ! ' cries the panting footman 
 who runs before the grandee's carriage; ' Bless the 
 Prophet and get out of the way !' 6 Allah bless him ! ' 
 respond the good Moslems, some shrinking up to the 
 walls to avoid the stick, others rushing across the 
 road so as to give themselves every chance of being 
 knocked down. The donkey-boy beats his ass with a 
 heavy palm cudgel. He fears no tread-mill here, 
 cursing him at the top of his voice, for a e Jew,' a 
 ' Christian,' a 6 son of the one-eyed, whose portion 
 is eternal punishment ! ' c chick-pease ! O pips ! ' 
 sings the vender of the parched grains rattling the 
 unsavoury load in his basket. 'Out of the way, and 
 say there is one Grod ! ' pants the industrious water- 
 carrier, laden with a skin, fit burden for a buffalo. 
 i Sweet water and gladden thy soul, Lemonade ! ' 
 pipes the seller of that luxury, clanging his brass cups 
 together. Then come the beggars, intensely OrientaL 
 e My supper is in Allah's hands ! My supper is in 
 Allah's hands ! whatever thou givest, that will go 
 with thee ! ' chaunts the old vagrant, whose wallet 
 perhaps contains more provision than the basket of 
 many a respectable shopkeeper.* * Curse thy father, 
 
 * The proper way of refusing alms to a beggar, is to say "Allah 
 Q 
 
226 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 brother of a naughty sister ! ' is the response of 
 some petulant Greek to the touch of the old man's 
 staff. 'The grave is darkness, and good deeds are 
 its lamp ! ' sings the blind woman, rapping her sticks 
 together. ' Upon Allah ! upon Allah ! Daughter ! ' 
 cry the by-standers, when the obstinate i bint ' * of 
 sixty years seizes their hands, and will not let go 
 without a farthing. And sometimes high above the 
 hubbub rises the melodious voice of the blind muez- 
 zin, who from his balcony in the beetling tower rings 
 forth, ( Hie ye to devotion ! Hie ye to salvation ! 
 Devotion is better than sleep ! Devotion is better 
 than sleep ! ' Then good Moslems piously stand up, 
 and mutter, previous to prayer, ' Here am I at thy 
 call, Allah!'" 
 
 But of pious Moslems, blind beggars, turbaned 
 Arabs, and veiled women we must soon take our 
 leave, the fates ordain this day the 30th of March 
 to be our last spent in the wonderful and picturesque 
 bazaars of Cairo. It is with great regret we leave 
 this country where, for nearly four months, our eyes 
 have been delighted with sights which imagination 
 
 kerim /" God is merciful ! which is considered equivalent to "I have 
 nothing for you ! " 
 
 * A daughter, a girl. In Egypt every woman expects to be 
 addressed as ' O Lady ! ' ' Female Pilgrim !' ' O Bride !' or 
 • O Daughter ! ' even though she be on the wrong side of fifty. " 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 227 
 
 had often pictured to our minds, our ears have be- 
 come familiar with the well-known names that con- 
 jure up the scenes of the Arabian tales, till we almost 
 fancy we are wandering through the bazaar with 
 the grand vizier, or at least that Aladdin's lamp is at 
 our command. But the dream is past, and Cairo 
 the Magnificent, the city of palaces and mosques, of 
 busy bazaars and narrow streets with their curious 
 outer shutters nearly meeting over head, all must be 
 left. We must bid farewell to the busy Esbekieh, 
 where groups of donkey-boys rush upon the traveller 
 as he emerges from his hotel, and with an energy 
 worthy of a better cause fight desperately for the 
 sturdy Englishman and lively Frenchman, or at the 
 top of their voices try to persuade the stolid German 
 or graceful Greek of the superlative excellence of 
 their donkeys. The amount of foreign languages 
 these boys have at their command is extraordinary ; 
 but the bad language they use, especially in speaking 
 English, is most discreditable to those who have 
 taught it to them ! 
 
 We have eaten our last tepid dinner at Shepheard's 
 much abused table-cVhote. We have heard the com- 
 plaints of the hungry, the grumblings of the dis- 
 contented, the sighs of the bon-vivants, for the 
 last time ! That table-d?hote of Shepheard's is really 
 
 Q2 
 
228 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 sometimes an amusing scene; it is so proverbially 
 bad, and the dinners are not only ill-cooked but half 
 cold. Everything is placed on the table, and un- 
 covered, before the gong sounds. The guests have to 
 assemble from every corner of the extensive hotel; 
 the soup has to be discussed, and then, as might be 
 expected, the uncovered dishes are almost cold : and 
 little or rather no variety is there in the sumptuous 
 bill of fare; year after year, return when you like, 
 and over-roasted turkey, half-boiled turkey, under- 
 roasted fowls, over-boiled fowls will adorn that table. 
 They say Shepheard is so rich that he pays no atten- 
 tion to the complaints made to him ; he occasionally 
 informs his guests they need not stay to oblige him, 
 but may suit themselves elsewhere ! This morning 
 at breakfast there was nothing but sour native bread ; 
 so to show we resented such treatment we determined 
 to leave it untouched, and one of our friends sent 
 his dragoman to the English baker's to get a loaf. 
 It seems there is a feud between Mr. Shepheard 
 and Mr. Walker the baker, and, in order to spite 
 the latter, we are sometimes obliged to put up with 
 sour bread. If the waiters report to Mr. Shepheard 
 what they hear said of him at breakfast and dinner, 
 he must be indeed callous to all reproof. His 
 charges are not very high; every individual pays 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 229 
 
 eight shillings a day, which includes every thing 
 except a sitting-room, and wines. It is a very noisy 
 hotel, and there is a donkey that brays all night 
 close to my bed-room door, and makes so much 
 noise that I sometimes think it must have got into 
 the passage. The best way of preventing this most 
 disagreeable of all sounds is to tie a heavy stone to the 
 donkey's tail ! It is a Chinese discovery, which I un- 
 fortunately did not know of at the time, but I would 
 strongly recommend it to any one going to Egypt.* 
 
 But this is not the only noisy appendage attached 
 to the establishment, for dogs fight and cocks 
 crow, rats gallop behind the wainscot in regiments, 
 like cavalry charging down-hill, and musquitoes 
 sing inside one's musquito-curtains all night long. 
 "Mangez, mais ne ehantez pas!" is one's constant 
 ejaculation. Arab servants sleep in the passage 
 grunting and snoring all night, and scolding each 
 other or being scolded, as soon as daylight appears. 
 Occasionally, in the dead of night, when the hotel 
 is quite full, a party of Indian passengers arrives, 
 tired and sleepy after their desert drive ; when such 
 are expected it is as well to sleep with your door 
 locked, (always provided it has sueh a luxury as a 
 key,) for you will hear them, regardless of your slum- 
 
 * Hue's Travels in China. 
 <*3 
 
230 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 bers, rushing frantically along the passage trying at 
 all the doors they come to. A friend of ours told us 
 the other day, that one or two burst into his sleeping 
 apartment; calling out "Here's a bed! here's a bed!'' 
 "Yes," cried our friend, "but there's somebody in 
 it!" But to continue my table of grievances; — 
 It was under a sycamore-tree close to my bed-room 
 that Kleber was assassinated, and I often hear a tap 
 at the window which I conclude must be his ghost, 
 unless it is caused by a cat who has already broken 
 two panes of glass, in trying to effect an entrance ! 
 
 So by day and by night Shepheard's hotel is a 
 source of discontent, and yet every body comes to it, 
 because every one else does. It has the only reading- 
 room in Cairo, and one is sure of meeting one's 
 friends here, and indeed those who do try other 
 hotels report no better of them, so Mr. Shepheard 
 pockets his guineas, and does not care who growls, 
 and he looks as fat and nourishing as ever, and 
 though he says he is half-ruined, every one knows 
 it is a "faqon de parler" and he thrives and drinks 
 his bottle of champagne, and either drives or rides as 
 he likes, and plays the great man over all his lodgers, 
 and remains Shepheard the Great to the end of the 
 chapter. 
 
 Alexandria. Rey's Hotel, March Slst — We left 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 231 
 
 Cairo at six this morning, but were detained at our 
 moorings by a river fog, which lasted till eight o'clock. 
 We took leave of Khalil just before starting; the 
 farewell was most touching, and it was with tears in 
 his eyes the honest old creature parted from us, after 
 repeatedly kissing our hands. We are taking on a 
 Maltese dragoman or courier, as I suppose we must 
 call him, named Giuseppe Muscat, a man with the 
 most forbidding countenance I ever saw ; my brother 
 knows him from having had him in his service some 
 years ago, when he found him very useful and intel- 
 ligent. Our fellow-passengers were not numerous. 
 Among the English ones were some Nile friends, 
 besides some whose acquaintance we had made at 
 Cairo. There was a school of two hundred children 
 on board, all sons of Turkish and Memlook parents. 
 They have been bought by the pasha and will be 
 educated at his expense ; their future position in life 
 depends upon him, as he may make them viziers or 
 tailors as he pleases. 
 
 Owing to our detention at starting, it was ten o'clock 
 in the evening before we arrived here. This town may 
 be well guarded at night, but that is poor consolation 
 to the sleepy traveller, who starts in his bed every 
 quarter of an hour, as the active watchman yells and 
 shrieks under his window so as almost to make the 
 
 q 4 
 
232 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 panes of glass shake in their frames, and is answered 
 by a dozen similar howls in different parts of the 
 town. Even for a moment the dogs are hushed, and 
 the cocks, who in this country crow without cessation 
 from sunset to sunrise, give one a minute's peace. 
 
 April 5th. — We have not been fortunate in the 
 weather since our arrival here ; one or two days it has 
 been so windy that we have only just got out to attend 
 morning prayers in the English chapel at the further 
 end of the Frank Square.* We have also taken some 
 drives into the country with Mrs. Gr.f who has 
 been unremitting in her attentions to us. We went 
 to see Cleopatra's Needle to-day ; it is a fine granite 
 obelisk, about one hundred feet in height ; but the 
 hieroglyphics on the side exposed to the sea are 
 much defaced. Another, now, alas ! prostrate on the 
 ground, was presented by Mohammed Ali to the 
 British government ; the expense of moving it how- 
 ever was considered too great, so there it lies and 
 will probably remain for a long time to come ; in fact, 
 it is now so injured that it would hardly be worth the 
 trouble of transportation.^ There is a glorious view 
 
 * There is daily service as it h Holy Week, 
 f Wife of H. B. M.'s Consul. 
 
 J They stood originally at Heliopolis and were brought to Alex- 
 andria by one of the Csesars, though fame has attached to them the 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 233 
 
 of the city and famous harbour from the terrace 
 where the obelisks are situated. 
 
 News has just reached Alexandria of the death of 
 our fellow-passenger in the "Scamandre" the Eev. 
 W. W. E. He is universally lamented, and every 
 one seems to feel they have lost a friend in him. Not 
 a person that has ever met him, but has a lively re- 
 collection of his kind manner and delightful conver- 
 sation ; short as was his stay here his melancholy end 
 has spread a gloom over all who knew him. He went 
 up the Nile in a steamer, and on his return, after 
 making a short stay at Cairo, started for Jerusalem 
 by the " Long Desert." He was taken ill soon after 
 setting out, and after suffering severely died within a 
 couple of days' journey from Mount Sinai. 
 
 We have had little else to do here but to enjoy the 
 society of some very kind friends, who seem to lay 
 themselves out in their endeavours to make strangers 
 feel at home. Among the daily little considerate 
 attentions one meets with in this country I may 
 mention a present we received yesterday which would 
 astonish us at home in the month of April. A lady 
 
 title of Cleopatra's Needles with the same regard to truth that as- 
 cribes to her the honour of erecting the Pharos. They are of red 
 granite of Syene like most of the obelisks of Egypt. — Modern Egypt 
 and Thebes, by Sir Gardner Wilkinson. 
 
234 WANDERINGS IN 
 
 to whom we were only introduced a day or two ago 
 sent us a basketful of strawberries and a cup of 
 beautiful cream, apologising for doing so, but hoping 
 that as they were the first of the season they would be 
 acceptable. We have renewed our acquaintance with 
 many friends who (as on former occasions) have 
 shown us every possible kindness. 
 
 Some of the residents to whom we had no letters 
 of introduction, but whom we have accidentally met, 
 have expressed their regret that there was nothing 
 they could do for us, offering us at the same time 
 unbounded hospitality. This way of speaking, when 
 one knows that it is not for the sake of talking, is a 
 very pleasant thing to hear some thousand miles 
 away from home ; such friendships surely must leave 
 pleasing associations of the country where they have 
 been formed, and wherever we have been, but espe- 
 cially in Egypt, such welcome it has always been our 
 lot to receive. 
 
 There is another friend, too, from whom we are 
 parting with great regret, — that glorious old river, 
 without which Egypt itself would be nothing, and 
 which has engrossed and now claims a larger share of 
 our affections, than an acquaintance of four months' 
 continuance would seem to warrant. Apart from all 
 the charms which the interest of association, the 
 
THE LAND OF HAM. 235 
 
 exquisite scenery, and the pleasures of society have 
 thrown around that home which the broad bosom of 
 his waters so long afforded us, there is another con- 
 sideration (which though of a much lower order is 
 still of some force) — I mean the incomparable ex- 
 cellence of the water, which is so great that, ac- 
 cording to the Arabs, the person who has been so 
 fortunate as ever to have tasted it, though he may 
 leave the country for a time, is yet certain at some 
 future period of his life, impelled by an irresistible 
 impulse, to return to its banks. 
 
 April 6th. — Good Friday. At ten o'clock this 
 morning we embarked on board the splendid steamer 
 "Indus," belonging to the Peninsular and Oriental 
 Company, and in a few hours after our departure the 
 shores of Egypt vanished from our sight. Of the 
 comfortable accommodation, excellent cooking, and 
 well-kept regulations it is unnecessary for me to speak. 
 Whoever has been on board of one of the first-class 
 steamers of this Company (at least on this side 
 of the Isthmus) has no doubt found it equally de- 
 lightful, and, to those who have not been so, it is 
 a pleasure to come, — suffice it to say that a most 
 enjoyable passage of four days brought us safely to 
 Malta, and the blue waters of the Mediterranean 
 separated us from the country where we had passed 
 
236 WANDERINGS IN THE LAND OP HAM. 
 
 four happy months, where a new source of pleasure, 
 and an inexhaustible mine of research had been opened 
 to us, where we had lived in close contact, and had 
 been brought almost daily into connection with the 
 wonders of past ages, and the lasting monuments of 
 the most ancient nation. 
 
 It was with feelings mingled with regret, that I 
 again entered 
 
 Christendom. 
 
,%Uk, (gikalte, mtir fginban, 
 
239 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Hotel at Malta. — Church Bells San Giovanni. — Costumes. — 
 
 Calisses. — Citta Vecchia. — Natives. — Sliema. — Harbours. — The 
 "Cambria." — Domestic Troubles. — Voyage to Gibraltar. 
 
 For a fortnight after our arrival at Malta, we lived 
 in the Hotel Imperial, Strada Santa Lucia, where 
 our patience was very nearly exhausted by the cease- 
 less clang of church bells, particularly of those of the 
 Cathedral of San Giovanni, which was close to us. 
 The Maltese are decidedly a noise-loving people, and 
 the incessant ringing of their bells is enough to drive 
 an Englishman crazy. If they would only set them 
 all a-going at once, and be done with them, one would 
 not complain, but from sunrise to sunset, as soon as 
 one belfry is silent another is sure to begin, and to 
 us, after our sojourn in a land where "the sound of a 
 church-going bell" is never heard, they were particu- 
 larly annoying. 
 
 The outside of the church of San Giovanni is very 
 plain, but the interior is most gorgeous. The pave- 
 ment is entirely composed of the coats-of-arms of the 
 
240 MALTA. 
 
 Knights of St. John, beautifully represented in in- 
 laid marbles and different-coloured stones. The nave 
 is very broad, and there is a row of tiny chapels on 
 each side; every one differing, but all exquisitely 
 paved, and the walls covered with mosaic work in 
 gildings or marble. The roof of the church is vaulted, 
 and covered with frescoes in tolerable preservation ; 
 there are also some good paintings in the chancel. 
 
 The altar steps are of white marble, and the base 
 of the altar is of lapis lazuli ; the chancel is fitted up 
 with oak wainscoting, some of the carving of which is 
 well executed. The candelabra are of finely wrought 
 silver, and some of those in the chapels are lovely : 
 the gates of the Lady-Chapel are of silver ; at the 
 time the French took possession of the island they 
 were painted over by a priest, in order to save them 
 from the spoilers. The keys brought by the Knights 
 from the island of Khodes in a.d. 1530, when they 
 were turned out of their old quarters, are still pre- 
 served in this chapel. 
 
 The dress of the Maltese women is very grace- 
 ful, and particularly becoming to them, as they 
 have in general pretty figures. It consists of a black 
 silk skirt, and a "faldetta" of the same material. 
 This is a kind of mantle which comes over the head 
 and is supported on a bent whalebone. It is held 
 
MALTA. 241 
 
 with the left hand, and can be drawn forward so as 
 partially to conceal the face. This dress is worn 
 alike by all classes ; the only difference made is in the 
 quality of the silk. This black shell, which is after 
 all only the outer covering, often discloses a gaily 
 coloured dress, and their coiffures are always taste- 
 fully arranged. The effect of a number of these 
 graceful figures kneeling on the pavement of a church 
 is very striking. 
 
 I must not forget to mention among the strange 
 sights at Malta the antediluvian-looking vehicles 
 they call " calisses" These are square box-like 
 carriages perched up very high and resting upon 
 the shaft ; they have two huge wheels, which are si- 
 tuated far behind and appear to have very little con- 
 nection with the rest of the carriage. Some of them 
 are provided with steps, but generally you are obliged 
 to have a chair brought down to the door to help you 
 to get in, which is after all a matter of some difficulty ; 
 box or rumble there is none ; the driver either runs 
 beside his horse or else sits on the shaft. The Mal- 
 tese are capital runners; I have known some men 
 run eight or ten miles by the side of a two-horse 
 carriage, and then only stop to give the horses a few 
 minutes to refresh themselves. 
 
 There is only one other large town in Malta besides 
 R 
 
242 MALTA. 
 
 Valetta, viz. Citta Vecchia ; it is the more ancient of 
 the two ; Publius the governor of the island is said 
 to have resided here, and the cave which he gave to 
 St. Paul to live in is one of the sights of the town. 
 There are also some catacombs shown where the Car- 
 thaginians and Saracens used to bury their dead. 
 
 Citta Vecchia stands upon an eminence and is 
 surrounded with strong fortifications. The city is 
 composed of magnificent stone palaces, on many of 
 which are carved the names of their founders ; but 
 as we drove through the deserted streets not a crea- 
 ture stirred among these princely habitations ; no 
 living soul appeared but some miserable beggars, 
 whose piteous cries of " Carita, per Vamov di Dio? 
 were the only sounds we heard. 
 
 There are two very large churches in Citta Vecchia, 
 besides many smaller ones. There are several villages 
 in Malta, but they do not convey the least idea of a 
 country village, — nothing on this island could look 
 rural, amid the painful glare of everything around. 
 They consist of a few rows of white flat-roofed houses 
 with staring green Venetian blinds ; a huge dazzling 
 white church, absurdly disproportioned to the size of 
 the village, and surrounding all is a high wall, amply 
 provided with drawbridges and other means of de- 
 fence. There is usually a Strada Reale, and Strada 
 
MALTA. 243 
 
 delta Chiesa, in every town, and the rest of the 
 streets are generally Vicolo 1, 2, 3, &c. There are 
 no scattered houses or cottages, hardly even a de- 
 tached villa on the island. The inhabitants all 
 cluster together within their fenced walls, but prin- 
 cipally within the fortifications of Valetta. The 
 population of this town is enormous as compared 
 with its size. Every order of priests and monks 
 flourishes here; and black gowns and shovel hats, 
 brown serge and skullcaps, friars of orders grey, 
 brown, and black, fill the island. It is computed 
 that there are five priests to every Maltese, not 
 reckoning the shoals of deacons and unordained stu- 
 dents in several colleges. 
 
 The streets swarm with children, all looking miser- 
 able and all or most of them always crying; — 
 mothers scolding and beating them,— men storming 
 and swearing ; — such is the scene usually visible in a 
 street in Valetta, but I ought to add that, in the 
 hateful Maltese dialect, a man cannot open his mouth 
 without seeming to be in a violent passion ; of all 
 languages I have heard, it is the most disagreeable 
 to listen to ; though it is a corruption and mixture of 
 both, it has neither the sweetness of the Italian nor 
 the rich sound of the Arabic ; perhaps when such is 
 the case, it is hardly fair to suppose that the speakers 
 
 B 2 
 
244 MALTA. 
 
 are always in a rage, but as a general rule a Maltese 
 man looks vindictive and passionate, — a Maltese 
 woman (of the lower orders) dirty and ill-tempered, 
 — and a Maltese child ill-used and unhealthy. 
 
 The upper classes of the Maltese are, I am told, 
 reserved and dignified, and, except on three occasions 
 during the year, will not mix in English society, 
 nor will they permit their conquerors to make 
 acquaintance with them. The occasions to which 
 I allude are the three public balls given at the 
 palace, on Christmas day, the last day of the car- 
 nival, and on the Queen's birthday. To these three 
 balls the Maltese vouchsafe to come, and as I was 
 present at the latter I may add that I saw but little 
 beauty among them. Their black silk faldettas suit 
 them much better, and are arranged with more taste 
 than their ball-dresses. 
 
 The palace at Valetta is a large building ; it oc- 
 cupies one side of the Piazza San Giorgio. It 
 contains a gallery full of the portraits of all the 
 Knights of St. John, which I suppose boast the same 
 amount of likeness as other portraits of that age ; an 
 arsenal is also shown containing specimens of their 
 armour. There is nothing else worth seeing in 
 the palace except the public rooms. It is the town 
 residence of the Governor, who has in various ways 
 
MALTA. 245 
 
 endeavoured to make himself popular with the 
 Maltese ; all he says or does is to please them ; he 
 has brought back the Jesuits into the island to please 
 them, and for the same laudable purpose he allows 
 the streets to be blocked up every saint's day by 
 crowded processions ; and what displeases the English 
 residents is that, except on the three occasions when 
 he is obliged to do so by Government, he gives but 
 few balls or parties at the palace. The English resi- 
 dents of Malta are, I think, very gay ; and this year, 
 from there being many more queen's ships in the 
 harbour, and many more depots of regiments in the 
 island, the winter season was more than usually 
 brilliant. 
 
 As before stated we remained only a fortnight in 
 Valetta, and then took up our quarters at Sliema, where 
 we were most comfortably lodged at the house of a 
 Mr. Jevons, whose terms were as moderate as his 
 accommodation was comfortable. We had a well fur- 
 nished sitting-room, and four bed-rooms, for which 
 we were charged six shillings a day each, board 
 and attendance included.* 
 
 Sliema is the name given to a few houses on the 
 western side of the Quarantine Harbour ; they are 
 
 * For our maid three shillings a day was the charge. 
 B 3 
 
246 MALTA. 
 
 the general resort of those among the inhabitants who 
 do not leave Malta during the summer. It is about 
 three quarters of an hour's drive by land from Valetta, 
 but, by making a short cut across the harbour, it is 
 reached in ten or fifteen minutes. Our house was 
 close to the landing-place, and in the afternoon we 
 often used to take a row. The charge for a boat large 
 enough to hold twelve people, with two men at the 
 oars, is at Sliema sixpence for the first hour and five- 
 pence for every additional one ; at Valetta it is a penny 
 less. If the men demand a buona mancia twopence 
 will make them quite happy. 
 
 This island is literally a barren rock, for there 
 are but few trees and hardly a shrub to be seen. 
 The little soil that there is here has been chiefly 
 imported from Sicily, and being therefore valuable, 
 it is divided by stone dykes into small patches; 
 one object in erecting these dykes was to collect 
 the stones, and detached pieces of rock, off the 
 fields, so that in looking at the country from a dis- 
 tance the glare of white roads and white dykes is 
 intolerable. In fact, as a modern writer says, " the 
 only shade in Malta is to be found in the counte- 
 nances of its inhabitants," who do, some of them, look 
 black and gloomy enough. 
 
 A description of this place would be incomplete 
 
MALTA. 247 
 
 without due mention of its celebrated harbours. The 
 warlike genius of man has helped to perfect and 
 render impregnable the naturally strong position of 
 those rocky bulwarks, which seem to have been 
 created for the defence of this small but all-im- 
 portant island. 
 
 There are two principal harbours, the Grrand and 
 the Quarantine. The entrance to the former is 
 narrow, and strong fortifications bristling with guns 
 defend either side. Proceeding inwards you pass to 
 the right under towering cliffs, and, leaving Fort 
 Eicasoli and the Naval Hospital to the left, you reach 
 the Custom-house. This part of the harbour is 
 crowded with shipping bearing the flags of every 
 nation ; here, as in every other part, the water is so 
 deep as to admit of the close approach of the largest 
 ships to the shore. They are moored by cables 
 fastened to iron rings in the rocks. 
 
 It is said that the geological structure of the island 
 of Malta resembles the form of a head of cauliflower, 
 its foundation answering to the stalk, and the island 
 which has grown up out of the sea to the spreading 
 flower. During the time of the last earthquake (1856) 
 many of the inhabitants expected it would break off 
 and topple over. 
 
 To the left the harbour divides into three creeks, 
 
 R 4 
 
248 MALTA. 
 
 all strongly fortified. The centre and largest one is 
 called the Dockyard Creek ; on one side of it is the 
 Admiralty House, and just in front of the drawing- 
 room windows is the flag-ship, the "Ceylon." Further 
 up the creek, one or more ships may be sometimes 
 seen undergoing repairs, and many trades and manu- 
 factures connected with the navy are here carried 
 on ; among the curious sights I went to was the 
 biscuit-making, which, I may as well mention for 
 the sake of the uninformed, is all done by steam; 
 some of the processes the flour went through re- 
 minded me of a paper manufactory ! 
 
 The Quarantine Harbour, which is appropriated to 
 the steam-packets, is defended at its entrance by two 
 forts, besides which it is commanded by several bat- 
 teries on the town side ; Fort Manuel, too, stands on 
 the extremity of a point which divides the harbour 
 into two parts ; in short, as the reader will imagine, 
 it requires a bolder and more fool-hardy leader than 
 is to be met with now-a-days, to endeavour to pene- 
 trate either of the harbours, defended as they are, 
 and it is to be hoped always will be, by British sol- 
 diers and plenty of gunpowder. 
 
 Going from Sliema to Valetta, particularly in 
 the heat of the day, is a fatiguing undertaking. 
 First there is a row in an open boat, and as often 
 
MALTA. 249 
 
 as not on a rough sea, for ten or fifteen minutes; 
 this takes you to the Marsamuscetto, or Quarantine 
 landing-place. Then comes a weary flight of one 
 hundred and fifty-four steps, under grated port- 
 cullises and over creaking drawbridges before you 
 can enter the town, and even then you find your- 
 self only in the lowest street on the western side 
 of Valetta. Flights of steps or very narrow steep 
 streets take you to the uppermost ridge, the Strada 
 Eeale, where are most of the hotels and shops. Here 
 you find yourself on level ground, but, if you cross 
 the road and proceed eastwards, almost perpendicular 
 streets or more generally long and weary stairs, and 
 among them the famous nix mangiare*, bring you 
 to a level with the Grand Harbour ! Such is a slight 
 sketch of the * build " of this town. 
 
 I ought to add, by the by, that in order to get to 
 the English church, which is on the western side of 
 Strada Eeale, and only about one third of the way up 
 the slope, we had to ascend ninety-two steps beside 
 the one hundred and fifty-four already mentioned. 
 The church of St. Paul, which was built by Queen 
 Adelaide in 1844, is a very handsome building; the 
 
 * These stairs obtained their well-known name from being the 
 resort of importunate beggars, who had, as they say, " nix man- 
 giare" nothing to eat ! 
 
250 MALTA, 
 
 body of the church, or rather I should say the church 
 itself, is pure Grecian and has a splendid portico, but 
 to this has been added a steeple (!), which though 
 very beautiful in itself, and one of the chief ornaments 
 of the town, is of course very much out of place. 
 There is an excellent organ in the church, and the 
 singing is very good. 
 
 Reports of cholera at Alexandria reached Malta 
 about this time, so to avoid the disagreeable neces- 
 sity of performing quarantine at Gibraltar, we were 
 recommended to eschew the Peninsular and Oriental 
 Company's steamers, and to apply for a passage in 
 a transport, which, not having come from Alex- 
 andria, would have a clean bill of health. This is, 
 however, a favour granted in general only to naval 
 or military people, and application has to be made 
 to the admiral of the port; we did not know the 
 present admiral personally, so in our dilemma we 
 applied to his flag-lieutenant, whose popularity is 
 great in Malta. Accordingly one morning about 
 twelve o'clock he called upon us with the news 
 that one of Cunard's steamers, the " Cambria " 
 (Transport 101), had just come in, and would be off 
 at six o'clock next evening for Gibraltar; that she was 
 a fine ship, — quite empty, — no invalids in her, — 
 and in short just suited to us in every way ! 
 
MALTA. 251 
 
 If the ship had walked into our drawingroom 
 instead of the flag-lieutenant, it could hardly have 
 taken us more by surprise than did this announce- 
 ment, for we had not intended leaving Malta for ten 
 or fifteen days, and, having a great deal to do, had 
 meant to take it leisurely. First thoughts of course 
 settled the matter as impossible, but " second ones," 
 which according to the good old saying " are best," 
 decided us upon at least trying, especially as we 
 were informed we should never have such another 
 opportunity. So we set to work to pay our bills and 
 collect our goods and chattels. 
 
 About a week ago our far-travelled Abigail, who 
 no doubt felt like a monkey who had seen the world, 
 announced to my mother while she was " undoing " 
 her one night, that she had had two offers of mar- 
 riage made to her, and she wished to have her mis- 
 tress's opinion about them. One was from a butler 
 of a neighbouring family, whom she had known since 
 her arrival in Malta, the other was from a Scotch 
 linendraper, whose acquaintance she had made ten 
 days ago, and whom she said she did not prefer of the 
 two. Whichever she finally accepted, she declared 
 her intention of returning to England with us first. 
 Nothing more was said till late this evening (the 
 13th of June), when she acquainted us with her de- 
 
252 MALTA. 
 
 termination of becoming the linendraper's wife, and 
 that too before we left Malta, " to look respectable " 
 as she said. 
 
 Here was a pretty scrape, as we certainly wanted 
 all the help we could get to enable us to be ready in 
 time, to say nothing of future inconveniences; but 
 misfortunes never come singly ; about half-past ten 
 next morning back came the lieutenant to say that 
 the sailing hour had been changed, and he would 
 send his four-oared boat to bring us on board by 
 twelve o'clock. Great was his astonishment to hear 
 our maid was at church getting married, but as he 
 could afford us no help in that line he took himself 
 off, and with some difficulty we finished our packing 
 by about eleven, when the smiling bride made her 
 appearance, and we heard to our no small amuse- 
 ment, that, from among her male acquaintance at 
 Malta, she had selected her rejected suitor as the 
 person to give her away ! We hoped therefore that 
 this singular piece of favour reconciled him to the 
 loss he had sustained. 
 
 Some of our friends accompanied us on board the 
 steamer, and remained with us till we reached the 
 mouth of the harbour, where a sailing-vessel, the 
 " Harkaway ! " was at anchor, which we were to have 
 the pleasure of towing after us to Gibraltar. 
 
MALTA. 253 
 
 Here we were in rather a strange position, the only- 
 ladies, in fact the only beings of womankind, on 
 board. There was only one other passenger besides 
 us, an Irish quarter-master of an infantry regiment, 
 who was going to Gibraltar on sick leave. He was a 
 harmless individual and seldom spoke to any one, but 
 he snored at night like nothing human. 
 
 Our passage lasted six days ; we behaved in a most 
 orderly, sailorlike manner, and could hardly realise 
 the fact that we were on board a ship. We appeared 
 to be on a visit to the captain in his own house. We 
 were very comfortable and had each a spacious cabin. 
 The cuisine was excellent, and our only companions 
 the captain, doctor, and purser ; the former was very 
 agreeable, and seemed to think he could not do 
 enough to make us comfortable. He used to play 
 the violin to us on deck in the evening when it 
 was not too rough. 
 
 We had only one severe gale, which lasted for some 
 hours on the night of the 19th, but we had a day or 
 two of strong head-winds. It was curious to see the 
 ship in tow writhing and plunging about, as if strug- 
 gling to get free ; the hawsers seemed sometimes on 
 the point of breaking. We sighted Cape Bon, and 
 passed at times very near the coast of Barbary ; in 
 passing Algiers we steered pretty close in, so that 
 
254 MALTA. 
 
 we had a good view of the town, which is situated 
 on the slope of the hill. It contains some fine 
 buildings and appears strongly fortified. The 
 country all round is well wooded. We ran up French 
 colours to the fore as we passed the town. After 
 sighting Cape de Gratte, we saw land in the distance 
 on both sides; to our right was the snowy range 
 of the Sierra Nevada, and to the left the coast of 
 Africa. As we approached Gibraltar the current, 
 which is always setting in from the Atlantic, rather 
 retarded our progress. We came within sight of 
 Ceuta, and Ape's Hill (a very high mountain, about 
 twenty miles inland), at sunset on the evening of 
 the 20th, and soon after the lighthouse on Europa 
 Point showed us we were near our destination ; but, 
 having a ship in tow, the captain would not enter 
 the harbour after dark ; we therefore lay off and on 
 all night, and at four o'clock next morning we were 
 on deck to see the entrance. 
 
GIBRALTAK. 255 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Landing at Gibraltar. — Difficulties. — The King's Arms — Expedi- 
 tion over the Rock. — Monkeys. — Spanish "Women. — Costumes. 
 — San Roque. — A Bull-ring. — Leave Gibraltar. — Cadiz. — A 
 Fellow-Passenger. 
 
 The first view of the Eock of Gibraltar is very striking; 
 it seems originally to have been an island, but it is 
 now joined to the mainland by a strip of sandy soil, 
 about half a mile long by a quarter broad called the 
 "Neutral Ground." The rock is fourteen hundred 
 feet high ; the town of Gibraltar, or as it is familiarly 
 called "Gib," lies at its foot, a little way up the western 
 side. On the north and east sides the rock rises per- 
 pendicular from the water's edge. The most southerly 
 point is called Europa Point, and on it as above stated 
 there is a lighthouse. The straits are only ten miles 
 broad at this point, so there is a fine view of the oppo- 
 site coast. The bay of Gibraltar affords a convenient, 
 and I believe a safe anchorage for ships; on the 
 western side of it, exactly opposite the rock, is the 
 little Spanish town of Algeciras. 
 
 After taking leave of the good ship " Cambria " and 
 
256 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 her hospitable captain, we were rowed some way up 
 the harbour, to the " Kagged-Staff Battery," where 
 the landing was easier than at the wharf, and, a 
 carriage having been sent down for us, we were 
 speedily conveyed to the Club-House Hotel, which 
 is situated in the Commercial Square. The front 
 windows looked out upon a very busy scene, and the 
 back ones overlooked the harbour. The hotel was 
 rather full, and we were therefore accommodated with 
 back-rooms, but the moment we entered them we 
 perceived an atrocious smell. It proceeded from the 
 back-water in the harbour, so we shut the windows, 
 but this made the room so oppressively hot that we 
 decided upon quitting the premises. 
 
 I forgot to mention that a friend at Malta had re- 
 commended us to go in any difficulty to a Spanish Jew 
 of the name of Hadida; we were to mention her name 
 and he would be sure to help us ; so as this was difficulty 
 No. 1, we thought the sooner we applied the better, 
 and accordingly we set off and in process of time dis- 
 covered his abode ; we mentioned our friend's name, 
 which appeared to act like a talisman ; the ice was 
 broken, and the stately Spaniard broke forth into 
 lively protestations, offering to do anything in the 
 world for us. We immediately informed him of our 
 dilemma, and expressed our wish to get some fresh air 
 
GIBRALTAR. 257 
 
 to breathe ; upon which he informed us that the only 
 other inn in the town was the King's Arms, which 
 was in the same square, but at the end furthest from 
 the sea. To the King's Arms then we removed our- 
 selves and our traps, and were installed in a very tiny 
 sitting-room. We were not however uncomfortable, 
 for the people were very civil, but unfortunately for 
 us the King's Arms boasted a well-frequented tap- 
 room, which was almost immediately below our sit- 
 ting-room, and we heard a good deal of what was said 
 in it; and just opposite our door was the dining- 
 room, which was full of officers till long past midnight. 
 With these two exceptions the house was well enough, 
 though even here the smell, though modified, obliged 
 us at times to shut our windows. 
 
 Our favourite resort at Gibraltar was the Almeida 
 or public garden, which is beautifully situated on the 
 slope of the hill. A military band used to play in it 
 three times a week. There is every kind of vegetation, 
 and plants of every climate grow in this place ; and 
 while on the higher parts of the rock firs and pines 
 may be seen enjoying themselves as if thoroughly 
 at home, in the Almeida oranges, figs, and all sorts 
 of tropical plants are found in full perfection. We 
 were much struck with the aloes in this place, which 
 attain a height never seen in England. 
 
258 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 Lord Byron called Malta a " military hothouse ; ? 
 and I think he would have applied the same term to 
 Gibraltar if he had been here ; for one sees guns and 
 cannon balls, bombs and shells, in every direction. 
 Guns are mounted on every level spot all over the 
 rock ; even in the beautiful Almeida guns and am- 
 munition are interspersed with orange-trees and roses, 
 and, not content with covering every available inch 
 on the surface, long galleries have been cut inside 
 the rock half-way up, with large square openings at 
 short intervals, at each of which the muzzle of a gun 
 appears. We went to see them one day, and were 
 shown over them by an artillery-man. 
 
 The entrance is kept locked, and a permission 
 to visit them has to be obtained from the governor. 
 We rode on donkeys and used native saddles, which 
 are very unlike the little armchairs we call Spanish 
 saddles at home. These were something like camp 
 stools with wooden seats, on which pillows and shawls 
 were piled, and as there is a strap to lean against, and a 
 board for the feet, they are not uncomfortable ; we sat 
 completely sideways and our donkeys were led for us. 
 
 Hadida found us a trustworthy guide, which is, I 
 believe, a rare commodity in Gibraltar ; and under his 
 protection, and accompanied by Giuseppe, my mother 
 and I were escorted over the " Kock." At the northern 
 
GIBRALTAR. 259 
 
 extremity of the galleries we came to a spacious cavern 
 partly artificial and partly natural. It is called St. 
 George's Hall. The guns in it command the whole 
 of the neutral ground, part of the bay, and the 
 approach to the rock from the Mediterranean. 
 A spiral staircase cut in the rock leads up from this 
 hall to a ledge near the summit, on which we stood 
 and looked down a perpendicular cliff of about four- 
 teen hundred feet in height; the view of the sur- 
 rounding country with the bay to our left, and a fine 
 stretch of open sea to the right, amply repaid us for 
 the difficulties of the somewhat perilous ascent. Re- 
 mounting our donkeys, we then rode to the highest 
 point of the rock, on which is placed a signal tower. It 
 is from a battery at this point that the morning and 
 evening guns are fired. The sentinel or watchman 
 who with his family lives in this airy position showed 
 us some polished pieces of the rock, some of which, in 
 the shape of studs and seals, we bought. From 
 hence we proceeded to St. Michael's Cave, which is 
 supposed to communicate with a similar one on Ape's 
 Hill, by means of a submarine passage below the 
 straits ! 
 
 Guide-books say that the Rock of Gibraltar is 
 u covered" with monkeys; we were so unfortunate as 
 only to see one; but it is said there are numbers of 
 
 s 2 
 
260 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 them, and that they always go to St. Michael's 
 Cave to die, for it is here and nowhere else on the 
 rock that their skeletons are found. We did not 
 penetrate far down, for it was dark and slippery, 
 and there seemed to be a deep pool of water at a 
 short distance from the entrance. I should be 
 curious to know if the supposed passage has ever 
 been explored ; those who dislike the sea might be 
 glad to hear of an overland, or at least an un- 
 derground route to Africa! There is one beau- 
 tiful drive on the rock, viz. through the Almeida to 
 Europa Point. The road leads past the lighthouse 
 for a short distance below some perpendicular rocks, 
 but one's progress is soon stopped in that direction, 
 as the cliffs themselves being washed by the sea, there 
 is no possibility of effecting a landing, much less a 
 carriage road, at their feet. 
 
 A bull-fight took place the other day at San 
 Roque, a village six miles inland. The British 
 Government does not allow them on its own territory. 
 We did not go to it, but we heard afterwards that 
 ten thousand spectators were present, of whom a 
 great majority were ladies. What an amount of 
 rank and beauty must have figured at that blood- 
 thirsty pastime ! 
 
 To form an adequate idea of the intense beauty 
 
GIBRALTAR. 261 
 
 of the Spanish ladies, one must see them in their 
 native country. The grace and dignity of their 
 figures are unequalled by that of any women of any 
 country in the world; they walk like Queens or 
 Empresses; the majesty of their gait and stately 
 carriage are unparalleled; and such eyes ! in which 
 an Oriental depth and richness are combined with 
 the lire and lustre of the South. Their heads, 
 which are small and classical, are set on necks of 
 equally faultless symmetry; their luxuriant black 
 hair is always beautifully dressed, and, brought up in 
 happy ignorance of fashionable bonnets, they wear 
 the graceful black lace mantilla, the upper part of 
 which is folded on the top of the head, and fastened 
 with gold or pearl-headed pins, or else, falling over 
 the face, it veils without hiding the beauty of 
 the wearer; such were the Spanish women whom 
 it was our delight to watch from our windows, as 
 they passed to and fro in the street beneath ; and in 
 the cool of the evening we lingered in the Almeida, 
 gazing on them with unwearied admiration as the}' 
 paced up and down, fanning themselves, and talking 
 to their friends in their rich and beautiful language. 
 Many of the men are good-looking, but the women 
 far eclipse them. 
 
 There is a great variety of costume here. The 
 
 8 3 
 
262 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 streets are always full of Moors from the opposite, 
 coast, who, as they prowl about the streets towards 
 nightfall in white bernouse and massive turban, look 
 most ghostly. There are great numbers of Jews, too, 
 many of whom wear small skullcaps, and dark-coloured 
 caftans or gowns. All sales by auction take place in 
 the Square just below our windows, and, as may be 
 imagined, the voices of the Hebrews are loudest in 
 every bargain. Some of the head-dresses we see are 
 very peculiar. Among the most remarkable are 
 straw hats a foot and a half high, of the shape of 
 sugar loaves; they are ornamented here and there 
 with little tufts of coloured wool. The commonest 
 Spanish hat is like a "wide-awake" with the edges 
 curled up and a pointed crown. Some of them have 
 bunches of coloured ribbon on them ; others bows or 
 rosettes of black velvet, and some have feathers. The 
 men wear short embroidered jackets of dark-co- 
 loured cloth, knee-breeches of the same material, 
 or sometimes of white cotton, bright-coloured waist- 
 coats, and a coloured sash round the waist. What at 
 home are called Wellington boots are worn uni- 
 versally here, and all over Spain. They were, as is 
 well known, introduced into England immediately 
 after the Peninsular War. 
 
 Although we are otherwise not badly lodged, the 
 
GIBBALTAB. 263 
 
 noise of our hotel is very disagreeable. The only 
 quiet time in the twenty-four hours is from two 
 o'clock in the morning, when the table-d'hote festivi- 
 ties generally end, till four o'clock, when the morning 
 gun fires, which is the signal for the various street 
 noises to recommence. During these two hours the 
 town is so quiet that we are often startled by the 
 sentinel's "Who goes there?" which we hear just 
 under our windows, there being a guard-house next 
 door to the hotel ; one of the many there are all over 
 the town. 
 
 Every evening just as the gun fires, which gene- 
 rally shakes the house and makes the windows 
 rattle, drums and fifes strike up, and the band, 
 followed by a most picturesque crowd of ragamuffins, 
 marches through the town ; on returning to the square 
 it plays a tune, and waits half an hour, till a second 
 gun fires, which is the signal for shutting the town 
 gates; it then takes another march through the streets, 
 comes back to our square, plays another tune, and 
 finishes with (rod save the Queen. Every third night 
 the band of the 92nd is employed, and then we have 
 the bagpipes, but we have remarked that on those 
 nights the crowd is considerably less ; so I fear our 
 melodious pipes of the north are not appreciated by 
 the good people of Gibraltar ! There are two other 
 
 S 4 
 
264 GIBRALTAK. 
 
 regiments here just now, the 54th and 66th, besides 
 the Northamptonshire militia, whose band is, I think, 
 the most popular of any. 
 
 We drove one day over a very rough road to San 
 Eoque. In crossing the frontier of the British territory 
 the carriage was stopped, and three or four gendarmes 
 endeavoured to find some contraband goods, in which 
 however they were disappointed. The neutral ground 
 is guarded at one end by a line of English sentinels, 
 at the other by a line of Spanish ones ; at the former 
 no questions are asked, as Gibraltar is a free port, but 
 at the latter, one is detained for some minutes as above 
 stated. The village of San Eoque is situated on an 
 eminence overlooking a very beautiful part of the 
 country. There are no high hills in the view, but 
 there is hardly a level spot as far as the eye can see, 
 and the undulating ground is of a rich green hue, for 
 many of the hills are covered with vines. 
 
 On looking towards Gibraltar the view was magni- 
 ficent ; the bay with all its shipping lay at our feet ; 
 on the right was the pretty little town of Algeciras at 
 the foot of the hills ; to the left the glorious old Rock, 
 standing proud and solitary, apparently desirous of 
 cutting of! all connection with the neighbouring 
 country, and looking with thorough contempt on the 
 insignificant strip of sand which connected it with 
 the mainland. And but a few miles distant and 
 
GIBRALTAR. 265 
 
 forming the background of the scene, rose the rocky 
 ridge of the coast of Africa ; — altogether a panorama 
 such as one does not often see ! 
 
 This lovely village was the scene of the bull-fight 
 the other day ; so after duly inspecting the curiosities 
 and picturesque groups in the market-place, and 
 after having for some time been nearly stared out of 
 countenance, we proceeded to the bull-ring. It re- 
 minded me of the Hippodrome at Paris, only on a 
 much larger scale. We were shown the dark and 
 narrow cells where the bulls are kept for several 
 hours before the fight, to render them mad and wild 
 with hunger and confinement. An old man, the 
 keeper of the place, fought over many of the com- 
 bats, and though he had to express his ideas in 
 broken English he seemed to enter keenly into the 
 spirit of the bloody game, and pointing first to one 
 side of the blood-stained arena, then to the other, de- 
 scribed the impetuosity of the monster's entrance. 
 
 " Thrice sounds the clarion ; lo ! the signal falls, 
 The den expands, and Expectation mute 
 Gapes round the silent circle's peopled walls. 
 Bounds with one lashing spring the mighty brute, 
 And, wildly staring, spurns with sounding foot 
 The sand ; nor blindly rushes on his foe: 
 Here, there, he points his threatening front, to suit 
 His first attack, wide waving to and fro 
 
 His angry tail ; red rolls his eye's dilated glow." * 
 
 * Childe Harold. 
 
266 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 The mounted matadors with scarlet flags gallop 
 around him, egging him on till with furious bellowing 
 he makes a rush at one of them. The matador dis- 
 mounts, he flies, he turns, then flies again, and throws 
 his red cloak on the enraged animal, who fancying he 
 has obtained the object of his hatred, tears it, stops 
 awhile, discovers the deception, spurns the cloak, and 
 again seeks his foe. The matador has meanwhile 
 either remounted, or taken refuge in a shelter pre- 
 pared for the purpose in the arena, too narrow to ad- 
 mit the bull. The other matadors throw darts at the 
 infuriated creature, which serve to madden long before 
 they kill him : at last, gored on all sides, blood pouring 
 from his countless wounds, he falls, — 
 
 "... 'Tis past, he sinks upon the sand ; 
 
 "Where his vast neck just mingles with the spine, 
 
 Sheathed in his form the deadly weapon lies. 
 
 He stops, he starts, disdaining to decline : 
 
 Slowly he falls, amidst triumphant cries, 
 
 Without a groan, without a struggle dies. 
 
 The decorated car appears, on high 
 
 The corse is piled, sweet sight for vulgar eyes ; 
 
 Four steeds that spurn the rein, as swift as shy, 
 Hurl the dark hulk along, scarce seen in dashing by !"* 
 
 Our stay at Gibraltar was limited to three weeks, 
 ♦ Childe Harold. 
 
GIBRALTAR. 267 
 
 a period amply sufficient for thoroughly exploring the 
 rock and its vicinity, and only just long enough to 
 make us wish ourselves elsewhere. The heat at this 
 time of the year is very oppressive, and by no means 
 so agreeable as at Malta. There, although there is 
 no shade, we had delightful sea breezes; but here 
 the sun's rays strike full upon the rock, and are re- 
 flected with such force upon the town that the streets 
 are comparatively deserted during the daytime. 
 There is no fresh air to be got but on the top of the 
 cliffs, and the west wind, which was blowing during 
 our sojourn, is too hot and heavy (or rather (i muggy") 
 to be refreshing. There is only a small supply of 
 water here, which in summer is very bad ; but there 
 is always plenty of fruit to be had, which, I suppose, 
 in some measure makes up for it. 
 
 We had few acquaintances in this place, but our 
 banker kindly supplied us with newspapers and 
 books. There is a good public library, but it is of 
 course difficult for chance visitors to procure books 
 from it, and there is hardly the ghost of a book to be 
 seen in any of the shops in the town, or " on the 
 Eock" as I should say. The English church here 
 cannot boast any great architectural pretensions ; its 
 exterior is very plain; it is of course kept locked 
 a Vanglaise during the week, and though we never 
 
268 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 could discover what occasion there was to guard it, a 
 sentinel is always posted at the door. 
 
 Giuseppe Muscat, the Maltese Dragoman, of whom 
 may all travellers beware, had been with us since we 
 left Egypt in the month of April. A most indefati- 
 gable worker, a first-rate cook, an excellent nurse in 
 sickness, eager in our service to a degree that was 
 often inconvenient — neither my mother nor I could 
 endure him : I think there never can have existed a 
 man with a more wicked and repulsive countenance, 
 but my brother requiring a personal attendant, and 
 having known this man for so long, we kept him in 
 our service. The day before our departure he came 
 to wait at table perfectly tipsy; he chattered to 
 himself in a mixture of Maltese, Arabic, Italian, 
 and English, and rolled about the room, at the same 
 time making such comical attempts to keep steady, 
 that it was all we could do to restrain ourselves from 
 bursting out laughing, especially as, whenever we 
 asked for anything, he went to the door, and roared 
 out " John," to an imaginary English waiter, who he 
 told us had been drinking ! Next day, however, he 
 professed such extreme penitence, that what with 
 our landlord's assurance of its being his first misde- 
 meanour during our residence at the King's Arms, 
 and the difficulty of getting any one else at a day's 
 
CADIZ. 269 
 
 notice, it was settled that he should be kept, and on 
 the 5th of July we left Gibraltar in the Peninsular 
 Company's steamer " Madrid." * 
 
 We started about five o'clock in the evening, and 
 passed through the straits before dark. There were 
 only three other English passengers besides ourselves, 
 one of whom kept his berth from the moment steam 
 was got up till we dropped anchor in the Tagus, so of 
 him we saw nothing; the second was a quiet little 
 Methodist parson who had lived some time in the 
 West Indies preaching to the blackies, and had since 
 then been staying at Gibraltar doing the same for 
 the soldiers, but of him more anon ; the third was a 
 retired Indian officer who had travelled in all parts of 
 the world, and knew everybody everywhere, and in 
 short proved a very agreeable acquaintance. 
 
 We reached Cadiz about six o'clock on the morning 
 of the 6th, and as we were to stop for a couple of 
 hours, my mother and I left the steamer and com- 
 menced a voyage of discovery through the town. 
 The view of Cadiz from the sea, familiar to all by 
 Lord Byron's beautiful description, is very striking ; 
 we thought it had but one fault, the want of a range 
 of mountains in the background. The houses are 
 all very high, and have flat roofs as in the East ; they 
 
 * The " Madrid " steamer was wrecked off Vigo in March, 1857. 
 
270 CADIZ. 
 
 are built of a stone of dazzling whiteness, with a small 
 square tower at the top of each, in which the inhabi- 
 tants sit, as we were told, in order to get as much 
 fresh air as possible. This gives the town the ap- 
 pearance of being covered with pepper boxes. The 
 Cathedral, which is a fine building, is not quite 
 finished, although it dates back to an early age, one 
 of the towers being still wanting. The interior is very 
 handsome; a priest who met us at the door sent off 
 some beggars who were persecuting us, and kindly 
 took us all over the building. There are several fine- 
 looking churches in this town, one of which, belong- 
 ing to an order of Carme monks, we admired more 
 than the Cathedral. Here, as at Gibraltar, there is a 
 beautiful Almeida*, through which we sauntered. 
 
 We looked into the market-place, but as it appeared 
 very crowded, we did not like to venture in ; for we 
 were quite alone, with a guide whose outward man 
 was not very prepossessing, and whose knowledge of 
 any language but his own was exceedingly small ; in 
 short from having landed at so early an hour we saw 
 Cadiz to disadvantage, as there was no one in the 
 streets but the very lowest of the people, whom we 
 found perseveringly inclined to see all they could of 
 two English ladies (no doubt to them a novel sight) ; 
 
 * Public Garden. 
 
VOYAGE TO LISBON. 271 
 
 at a later hour we should have seen more of the far- 
 famed beauty and aristocracy of the place. 
 
 We left Cadiz about nine o'clock, with a few ad- 
 ditional passengers, all Spanish, whom nobody spoke 
 to, and who were too sick to speak to any one. It 
 was very rough and windy, and I was therefore 
 enjoying myself alone on deck, when the humble- 
 minded little dissenting minister, whom I mentioned 
 above, came up to me, and drawing his stool close to 
 mine began the following conversation with " Please, 
 Miss." I suppose I looked as if I thought there was 
 no answer required to this remark; so he went on, 
 " Please Miss, did you say you had been in Egypt? " 
 (He had overheard me speaking of that country to 
 another fellow-passenger.) I told him that I had 
 been there all winter. "Oh Miss!" was the reply, 
 "were you in the same country as little Moses ! how 
 delightful!" Whether he thought that Moses was 
 still there, I do not know, but before I could explain, 
 he continued ; " Please Miss, is there anything very 
 interesting to see in that country?" "Yes," I said, 
 " there are a great many temples and tombs to see." 
 " Please Miss,;they use the temples still, do they not ? " 
 I informed him they were all in ruins. " Please Miss, 
 where do they offer their sacrifices now to the Sun 
 and Moon, if their temples are ruined?" It was 
 
272 VOYAGE TO LISBON. 
 
 with difficulty I kept my countenance as I proceeded to 
 assure him that it was some time since they had left 
 off worshipping the sun, and at last I got him to un- 
 derstand, that there was once upon a time a man 
 called Mahomet, &c. &c. &c. When he had digested 
 this piece of news, he began again, "Please Miss, 
 how did you get to Egypt?" "In a steamboat," 
 "Please Miss, where did the steamboat take you?" 
 " To Alexandria." . " And then, please Miss, how did 
 you get from Alexandria to Egypt ? " Only the little 
 parson's grave face prevented me from laughing out- 
 right, but, taking it for granted he meant Cairo when 
 he said Egypt, I told him how we went from Alex- 
 andria to that town ; but no, next came, " Please Miss, 
 how did you go from Cairo to Egypt?" and when 
 their relative positions were explained he asked, 
 " Please Miss, what river did you say was in Egypt ?" 
 After having satisfactorily answered this, and many 
 other similar queries, several minutes passed in deep 
 reflection elapsed, and then I heard "Thank you 
 Miss," and my little parson disappeared! I after- 
 wards heard he had been seen busily engaged in 
 writing what, I have no doubt, was a resume of the 
 information he had received ! 
 
LISBON. 273 
 
 CHAPTER XIJL 
 
 Arrival at Lisbon. — Braganza Hotel. — Portuguese Bull-fights. — 
 " Cherub." — San Koque. — San Girolamo. — Cintra. — Cork Con- 
 vent. — Montserrat. — Palace of Marialva. — Manners and Cus- 
 toms. — Leave Lisbon. — Vigo. — Oporto. — Bay of Biscay. — 
 Home. 
 
 About four o'clock on Saturday evening the 7th of 
 July, we came in sight of the town of Lisbon, and 
 after passing sundry sand-banks and shoals, which 
 constitute a rather dangerous bar, we entered the 
 mouth of the Tagus, a noble dashing river, seven 
 miles broad at this part. We passed the Tower of 
 Belem, an old and highly ornamented square tower 
 which boasts a few guns. The difference of climate 
 between this place and Gibraltar was very great ; the 
 sun's rays were so scorching that we could hardly 
 remain on deck to see the view, even under the pro- 
 tection of an umbrella. About half an hour's steam- 
 ing brought us opposite the town of Lisbon. This 
 magnificent city is built on seven hills : 
 
 " But whoso entereth within this town, 
 That sheening far, celestial seems to be, 
 Disconsolate will wander up and down, 
 'Mid many things unsightly to strange ee." 
 
 T 
 
274 LISBON. 
 
 But enough of this hereafter ; ours was the celestial 
 part just now, and truly there could hardly be a 
 more splendid sight than this city with her houses 
 piled in wild confusion up to the sky, as seen from 
 the Tagus, 
 
 H Her image floating on that noble tide." 
 
 We had been told many queer stories of the strict- 
 ness of the Lisbon custom-house, and were rather in 
 a fright, as we had Maltese and Spanish things in 
 our boxes, which, though of course brought only for 
 our own use, might excite suspicion and perhaps be 
 considered contraband. Soap and cigars, we were 
 informed, were what would be chiefly seized, and 
 though in these parts one does travel with two or 
 three extra pieces of the former indispensable article, 
 one has really no more than necessary; besides which, 
 an Englishman being by nature a clean animal, some 
 regard ought to be paid to his prejudices ; however 
 no one on board having a good word to say for the 
 Portuguese, my mother and I sent home most of 
 our luggage by the " Madrid." 
 
 On landing amidst a jabbering crowd of custom- 
 house officers, who eyed us most suspiciously, at the 
 same time examining our writing-boxes and hand- 
 bags, we sent for a carriage, leaving Giuseppe to 
 
LISBON. 275 
 
 superintend the opening of the boxes, and to follow 
 us to the Braganza Hotel. 
 
 After waiting some time, a vehicle came rattling 
 along the street towards us, the like of which we had 
 never seen before. It was a kind of chariot rest- 
 ing on leathern straps, and suspended on two huge 
 wheels; it was difficult to get into it, even with 
 the help of a high chair; a clumsy cart-horse was 
 between the shafts, but a couple of ropes were the 
 only harness of its companion, a skinny creature, 
 upon whose bare back was mounted an indescribably 
 uncouth postilion, equipped in garments of every 
 hue. This we were informed was the only means 
 of proceeding to the hotel. My brother was accord- 
 ingly assisted into it, but as there was not room for 
 all of us, owing to the peculiar construction of the 
 vehicle, the rest of the party walked. 
 
 We followed the carriage through a large square, and 
 then began the ascent. The streets are so steep, that 
 at last I really thought we should have reached the 
 clouds, indeed I am confident we should have done so, if 
 for every hill we went up we had not come down an- 
 other almost as long. In fact we had nearly despaired 
 of ever reaching our destination, when at last to our 
 joy the carriage stopped in front of the Braganza 
 Hotel, a magnificent building, which we were not 
 
 T 2 
 
276 LISBON. 
 
 surprised to hear had been built for a palace. 
 There are three stories ; the first and second consist 
 of very lofty suites of rooms of equally spacious 
 dimensions, and on the third floor there are smaller 
 bedrooms, just half the height. There seemed to 
 be no one in the hotel but ourselves, for our host, 
 a Mr. Dyson Meston, a supercilious, unhappy, ex- 
 king looking sort of man, allowed us to roam about 
 as long as we liked, and seemed not to care a far- 
 thing where we went : when we were tired of walk- 
 ing through the splendid suites of apartments, all 
 equally handsomely furnished, we settled ourselves 
 in the one which possessed the finest prospect. A 
 broad terrace-like stone balcony ran along in front of 
 our windows, on which we sat al fresco whenever the 
 heat of the sun permitted us, enjoying the splendid 
 view before us. Beneath our feet was the town of 
 Lisbon; beyond it the Tagus with its shipping; to 
 our right the open sea and the Tower of Belem ; while 
 to our left, and on the southern bank of the river, ex- 
 tended a richly wooded, highly cultivated, and moun- 
 tainous country; forming altogether such a picture 
 as the eye seldom rests upon ! 
 
 Next morning being Sunday we made inquiries about 
 the English church, and hearing that it was at some 
 distance, we ordered the remarkable vehicle, whose 
 
LISBON. 277 
 
 acquaintance we had made yesterday, and which we 
 found as rough and shaky as its appearance led us to 
 expect. The church, which was very full, is situated 
 in a cemetery, so tastefully laid out that it is one of 
 the chief resorts of the natives ; the view of the Tagus 
 from several parts of it is magnificent. 
 
 The "Madrid" having remained at Lisbon for two 
 days we again met one of our fellow-passengers, who 
 walked back to the hotel with us, a fatiguing pilgrimage, 
 as we went up and down many steep hills for a consider- 
 able time. Our steamboat acquaintance spent the even- 
 ing with us, and in the course of conversation, confessed 
 to having spent part of the afternoon at a bull-fight ! 
 Having witnessed several in Spain, where he had been 
 travelling for two years, he was curious to see one in 
 Portugal, where he told us they are conducted in a 
 very different way. The bulls have their horns both 
 tipped and padded ! No horses are used, and the fun 
 consists in seeing how high the bulls can toss any of 
 the spectators who like to volunteer to amuse the 
 company. Of course regular practitioners attend, but 
 any one may offer who likes ! No blood is shed, and 
 it is said few accidents occur in this remarkable game 
 of " catch and toss." " Tous les gouts sont respec- 
 tables? was all we could say, and there is certainly no 
 accounting for some of them. The Spaniards of 
 
 t 3 
 
278 LISBON. 
 
 course look down on the Portuguese for this harmless 
 way of playing at their cruel pastime. 
 
 During the following week the heat was so great, 
 and the view from our windows so lovely, that we did 
 not care to be much out of doors, but we contrived 
 to make ourselves pretty well acquainted with this 
 mountainous town, and to our satisfaction found some 
 level streets, up and down which we wandered, 
 looking in at the windows of the jewellers' shops, 
 of which there are a great many in Lisbon. Ear-rings 
 are universally worn in this place, and are made of 
 massive gold. 
 
 My brother embarked on board the " Great Wes- 
 tern," on the 13th of July, and sailed for Madeira, en 
 route for India. My mother and I being therefore 
 left alone, we determined, as the steamer for South- 
 ampton was not expected till the 19th, to spend the 
 time at Cintra; the 14th, however, being Sunday, 
 we remained at Lisbon in order to attend Divine 
 Service in the English church, and the 16th being 
 the last whole day we should have here, we 
 determined to make the most of it, and spend 
 it in seeing all the " lions " of the place. 
 
 As often happens on a day when one has plenty to 
 do, we were by mistake called later, and breakfast 
 was not so early as usual. A squabble that lasted all 
 
LISBON. 279 
 
 breakfast time, and for nearly an hour after, delayed 
 us some time longer. Griuseppe and a French waiter 
 were the parties engaged, and the hire of a carriage 
 for the day the subject about which they fought. 
 Griuseppe, for the love of fighting, and hearing the 
 sound of his own voice (the most hateful I ever heard), 
 frequently endeavoured to show his zeal in our service 
 by beating down every charge as low as possible. This 
 always took place in our presence, and we often had 
 to put a stop to it. I may as well mention that we 
 had given this individual the sobriquet of u Cherub," 
 not from his angelic disposition, but from his ro- 
 tundity, which put one in mind of pictures of Dutch 
 angels. His wardrobe was most extensive : he 
 appeared in a different suit almost every day. White, 
 he evidently considered, suited his complexion, and 
 the impulse to laugh was irresistible the first time he 
 appeared in his white linen shell-jacket, and white 
 trowsers to match : his figure was not made for this 
 style of dress, and the effect was most ludicrous. 
 Another of his suits was all striped, and exactly of 
 the colour of a zebra's skin; another was an incon- 
 gruous mixture of every colour of the rainbow, re- 
 sembling a harlequin's dress ; this suit he wore to-day 
 as he sa,t on the box puffing and panting, after the 
 rage he had been in. 
 
 T 4 
 
280 LISBON. 
 
 The grand sight of Lisbon, we were told, was the 
 church of San Koque, and thither we accordingly drove ; 
 the exterior is frightful, like all the other churches in 
 Lisbon ; a modern writer has compared them to the 
 fronts of old-fashioned French clocks, which they 
 very much resemble. Unlike other Continental na- 
 tions, the Portuguese keep their churches locked 
 except when service is going on. We had timed our 
 visit accordingly, and therefore finding the gates open 
 we entered the church ; but no guide presented him- 
 self, no sexton came forward ; with " Cherub " in his 
 harlequin coat at our heels we wandered up one aisle 
 and down another. Our object in coming was to see 
 the chapel of St. John, in which there is a wonderful 
 picture in mosaics ; this, the only thing worth seeing 
 in the church, is not left for vulgar eyes to gaze 
 upon, or for curious eyes to look at gratis. It serves 
 the purpose of livelihood to some individual whose 
 interest it therefore is to be indispensable to seeing 
 it ; the chapel is concealed by red curtains, and the 
 keeper being out of the way, his picture was not to 
 be seen. We accordingly came away much disap- 
 pointed. 
 
 The waiter at the hotel had given his orders to the 
 coachman, and, as we could not make out a. word the 
 latter said, we knew as little as our horses did where 
 we were going ; but at last after a long drive over some 
 
LISBON. 281 
 
 ill-paved rough streets, we stopped in front of the 
 church of San Grirolamo. 
 
 This building, which is one of the most ancient in 
 Lisbon, aud which was but little injured by the 
 earthquake, is considered one of the finest churches 
 in Europe ; the outside is richly and beautifully 
 carved, and the porch, which is of the Norman Grothic 
 style of architecture, is magnificent ; but delighted as 
 we were with the exterior of this noble building, 
 when we entered the doorway, we were positively 
 petrified with astonishment and admiration. Not 
 even among the beautiful and far-famed churches of 
 Normandy have I seen any half so perfect. The roof, 
 which is very lofty, is supported by two rows of the 
 lightest slenderest pillars imaginable, made of pure 
 white marble and elaborately carved from the bases 
 to the capitals. The woodwork about the chancel is 
 handsome and bears marks of great antiquity. The 
 roof of the vestry is made to represent the petals of a 
 flower, and the whole is supported by a column in the 
 centre which is meant for the stalk. 
 
 I never saw a church so highly finished in every 
 respect. Care and time have been expended on 
 every part, and the elegance and grace of the 
 whole are indescribable. An asylum for the edu- 
 cation of orphan children is attached to the church, 
 but our coachman gave us to understand we had 
 
282 CINTRA. 
 
 no time to go over it; we were therefore driven 
 off, and after some time found ourselves approach- 
 ing the Tower of Belem. It is at some distance 
 from Lisbon and is situated at the mouth of the 
 Tagus. A soldier took us all over it ; we could not 
 express our ideas in any known language, but by- 
 means of a strange compound of four or five different 
 ones, we got on very amicably. There is nothing of 
 any interest to be seen inside, but the view from the 
 top is very fine. As we had still a long journey before 
 us, we prevailed on our driver to take us back to the 
 hbtel, which we reached by a different and if pos- 
 sible a rougher road. 
 
 The weather being very hot, we had been advised 
 not to go to Cintra till late in the afternoon, so about 
 five o'clock we set off in an open carriage ; but no 
 sooner had we left Lisbon than a perceptible difference 
 in the temperature took place, and before we reached 
 Cintra we were nearly frozen. The drive was about 
 fifteen miles long, and most of it led us through an 
 ill-cultivated and extremely uninteresting country. 
 We passed underneath the famous aqueduct of 
 Lisbon, which supplies the town with water; the 
 height of its loftiest arch is two hundred feet. 
 
 The scenery we passed through was, as I said, very 
 monotonous, but once arrived at Cintra we felt well 
 
C INTRA. 283 
 
 repaid for the trouble we had had in coming, and the 
 atrocious road which had brought us to it. One's 
 first view of Cintra must be for ever connected with 
 two tall red brick chimneys, which rise from the 
 centre of the village ; on inquiring what manufacture 
 was carried on here, we were informed that the 
 kitchen of His Majesty's palace boasted these append- 
 ages, why or wherefore I never could find out ! We 
 drove to a small inn, kept by a Swiss of the name 
 of Durand, where we were comfortably lodged, and, 
 being very tired, our first act at Cintra was to go to 
 bed, having ordered two donkeys to be in attendance 
 next morning. 
 
 July 17th. — The principal object of interest in 
 this place is the convent of the Penha, so called 
 from its being situated on the summit of a preci- 
 pitous and rocky crag, or penha ; convents however 
 having been lately abolished throughout Portugal, 
 the king has appropriated it as a summer residence. 
 It was built a.d. 1497, by Pedro IL, who used to 
 climb regularly every day to the top of the hill to 
 watch for Vasco di Grama's return from the Cape of 
 (rood Hope. To his great joy one fine morning he 
 descried his sail, and, as the story goes, immediately 
 began the erection of the convent on the then almost 
 inaccessible rock. It was dedicated to Nossa Senora 
 
284 CINTRA. 
 
 delta Penha*, in acknowledgment of the protection 
 she had vouchsafed to the great Portuguese navi- 
 gator. The ground all round the convent, and on 
 every level spot, is now beautifully laid out, and the 
 rocks are studded with pine-trees. The king-regent 
 has had a carriage road made, which has been so skil- 
 fully executed, and is kept in such good order, that 
 carriages have no difficulty in reaching the summit. 
 
 The rocky ridge of Cintra rises like a barrier, sepa- 
 rating a very ugly from an equally beautiful tract of 
 country. On looking towards Lisbon, nothing was to 
 be seen but the barren moor we had passed yesterday; 
 while below us on the other side was the village of 
 Cintra situated on the edge of a deep and richly 
 wooded ravine, and beyond it to the very edge of the 
 blue Atlantic stretched a highly cultivated and undu- 
 lating tract of land. 
 
 After seeing the convent of the Penha we re- 
 mounted our donkeys, and proceeded along the top of 
 the ridge by a wild and lonely path for some miles, 
 until we reached an old convent known by the name 
 of the " Cork convent." Here as Lord Byron tells us 
 St. Honorius 
 
 " long did dwell, 
 In hope to merit heaven by making earth a hell." 
 
 * Our Lady of the Rock. 
 
CINTRA. 285 
 
 The only luxury the old saint and his brethren 
 allowed themselves was to have all their cells lined 
 with cork, which kept out the damp. We went into 
 several of these dungeon-like holes: the length of 
 them is five feet, the height about the same, and the 
 entrances (there are no doors) are not more than three 
 and a half feet high ; but Honorius, thinking this too 
 comfortable, went into the garden, and hollowed out 
 a hole under a projecting piece of rock ; into this he 
 crawled, and here he lived and died ! 
 
 The only inhabitant now of this lonely place is an 
 old man who appears more than half-witted. He very 
 much resembles a superannuated ourang-outang, and 
 hobbles about with a stick twice as high as himself. 
 We were amused at the care with which he locked 
 up the kitchen, refectory, and cells, in this unenviable 
 abode. What there was to run off with, or if there 
 had been, who would have come to take it, we were 
 at a loss to conceive. After resting here some time 
 we remounted our donkeys. The Portuguese saddle, 
 which we were using to-day, is not so comfortable as 
 the Spanish, from there being no support for the back. 
 It consists of a flat piece of wood, with a couple of 
 pegs at each end ; pillows are piled on ad libitum, 
 and a footboard is placed at whichever side the rider 
 prefers. The Portuguese women invariably sit on 
 what we should consider the wrong side. Donkey- 
 
286 CINTRA. 
 
 hire is certainly cheaper here than in most parts of 
 the world. The fare is tenpence for the whole day. 
 We were out five hours with two men and were only 
 charged a sum equivalent to tenpence. 
 
 We were very much puzzled with the coinage of this 
 country. At Lisbon one day we went into a stationer's 
 and bought a few things we wanted. When the bill 
 came in we could make nothing of it, paper five hun- 
 dred "reis," pens three hundred "reis," and blotting- 
 paper two hundred " reis ; " so we sent for our friend 
 the French waiter, and were informed we were to pay 
 a " mil-reis : " a piece of money equal to a dollar or 
 four shillings English. This was simple enough, and 
 we easily understood that one thousand reis made one 
 dollar, but positively every day we remained in 
 Portugal we heard the name of some new coin : every 
 ten, twenty, fifty, one hundred, one hundred and ten, 
 one hundred and twenty, &c. &c. &c, of these infini- 
 tesimal " reis " had some break-jaw unpronounceable 
 name, and so many " mil-reis " made something else ! 
 We really gave it up as a bad job. 
 
 From the Cork convent we proceeded down the hill, 
 and then along a beautiful shady road, between rows 
 of cork and various other trees, till we arrived at 
 what appeared to be the entrance to a fine park. So 
 it once was, and deer once ornamented its shady glades 
 
MONTSEIiRAT. 287 
 
 and well kept grounds. There was a small lodge at 
 the gateway, but it was tenantless, and handsome stone 
 pillars were all that remained to tell of the iron 
 gates which had been torn from their hinges. A fine 
 avenue of trees, the road now grass-grown and out of 
 repair, ended in a gently sloping lawn, on which we 
 dismounted, and found ourselves in a few minutes 
 within the deserted walls of Montserrat, where 
 Beckford once accumulated all that wealth could 
 procure, and taste devise, to beautify a place so en- 
 riched by nature's charms. This quinta, or villa, 
 which was once the residence of this extraordinary 
 man, stands on a projecting piece of ground. A 
 narrow strip of turf surrounds the house, and on 
 three sides we looked down steep banks into lovely 
 wooded glens. 
 
 The Atlantic, at the distance of eight or ten 
 miles, bounds the view in this direction; and the 
 convent of the Penha, with the rocky ridge of Cintra 
 and a wild and broken country at its foot, forms a 
 glorious background to the scene. But now all is 
 deserted ; this spot which, by his own, and by every 
 contemporary writer's account, Beckford had con- 
 verted into a perfect paradise, is now a complete 
 ruin. Bootless, and windowless, nothing but the 
 shell of the building remains, lovely in its desolation^ 
 
288 PALACE OF MARIALVA. 
 
 and enchantingly picturesque. I believe there is 
 some flaw in the title to the land, for, since Beckford 
 left it, Montserrat has been uninhabited, and whoever 
 likes may come and help to finish what the spoiler has 
 left undone. 
 
 It was already late, and several miles lay be- 
 tween us and Cintra, so with a parting glance at 
 the strange and lovely scene around us, we turned 
 homewards, and after a beautiful ride reached our 
 hotel. Being engaged to spend the evening with 
 some friends to whom we had brought letters of in- 
 troduction, we went to them about six o'clock ; but 
 hearing from them that the king-regent and some 
 of the royal family were walking along a road at a 
 little distance from the house, we went out in hopes of 
 seeing them. We did not accomplish this, not know- 
 ing exactly which way they had gone, but we had a 
 delightful walk, and among other objects of interest 
 saw the Palace of Marialva where the famous, or 
 rather infamous, Convention of Cintra was signed. 
 The guests at our friend's house were such as are 
 usually to be found abroad, and who often prove 
 agreeable society ; the Austrian, Kussian, and Swedish 
 ministers were there, and also one or two ladies. 
 After tea we went out to the terrace, in front of the 
 palace, where a band was playing. The drawing- 
 
 • 
 
LISBON. 289 
 
 room windows were open, and we saw the regent 
 several times ; he often stands at the window, and 
 sings while the band is playing ; they say he has a 
 very good voice, and is fond of showing it off. We 
 were disappointed of hearing him, though we stayed 
 till past ten o'clock. 
 
 Next morning I was up before breakfast and took 
 a long walk, after which we again ascended the Penha. 
 We were to sail for England next day, so we left 
 Cintra about twelve o'clock, and a few hours after were 
 comfortably installed in our old quarters in the 
 Braganza. We were much pleased with this hotel; 
 the rooms were clean and the cuisine excellent. The 
 only specimens of entomology we were troubled with, 
 were black beetles of a size peculiar to Lisbon and 
 unequalled in any other country. " Black beetle " was 
 the first word I asked the meaning of in Portuguese, 
 in order to point them out, with gesticulations of 
 horror and disgust, to the astonished and not un- 
 frequently amused housemaid. 
 
 Our intercourse with the natives in this place was 
 very limited, for they are singularly ignorant of any 
 foreign languages; there are many good-looking shops 
 here, but our purchases were few on this account. The 
 streets of Lisbon have been of late much improved, and 
 though so much has been said of their dirtiness, I do 
 
 u 
 
290 LISBON. 
 
 not think they are worse than many other Continental 
 towns. Some of the squares are paved with flints, ar- 
 ranged in different patterns according to their several 
 shades, the effect of which is very pleasing ; we are told 
 convicts are employed at this work. This city is well 
 supplied with water, but it is not brought into any of 
 the houses; carrying it in small barrels about the streets 
 gives occupation to many hundred men, and the shrill 
 cry of (i agua " is the first one hears on entering 
 Lisbon. 
 
 Here, as at Paris, the police are all armed, and at 
 night they parade the streets with loaded muskets ; 
 they are an ill-looking set of men, and one involun- 
 tarily hurries past any of their guard-houses, where 
 groups may be seen lounging round the doors ; while 
 at the same time one cannot help drawing rather 
 invidious comparisons between them and our clean, 
 civil, unarmed policemen at home. 
 
 The Portuguese, taken as a whole, appear a puny 
 contemptible set of people, and are seen to disad- 
 vantage after their neighbours the Spaniards : but 
 we are told that the inhabitants of Lisbon look 
 j^ellower, and have a more sheepish expression than 
 the people in the interior. There is nothing pecu- 
 liar in the dress of the men, but every woman 
 below the rank of a lady wears a huge double 
 
LISBON. 291 
 
 cloak of brown cloth reaching to her ankles. These 
 cloaks resemble an English coachman's great-coat in 
 some ways, but they look much clumsier ; there is 
 no variety in them, and summer and winter they 
 wear the same, though the weight, to say nothing 
 of the warmth, must be enormous : on their heads 
 they wear a white cotton handkerchief, folded and 
 tied under their chins ; this coiffure, as may be ima- 
 gined, is neither useful nor ornamental. The higher 
 classes try to imitate the French fashions, but they 
 dress in very bad taste. We went to some public 
 gardens one Sunday evening, on purpose to see the 
 noblesse of the place, who congregate there on that 
 day to hear the military band perform, but we did 
 not see a single good-looking or well-dressed per- 
 son; in fact we were much amused at the jumble of 
 colours on each individual. 
 
 I must not forget to mention the delicious fruit 
 which we enjoyed here in great abundance ; for we 
 never sat down to breakfast with less than six different 
 kinds of fruit on the table, which were left in the 
 room all day, and replenished at dinner-time, for all 
 of which not even a " reis " was charged ! We had 
 green and purple figs, pears, apricots, greengages, 
 plums, oranges, cherries, mulberries, and some others, 
 
 U 2 
 
292 yigo. 
 
 a vivid recollection of which we retained during our 
 passage to England. 
 
 We embarked on board the Peninsular Company's 
 screw steamer " Alhambra " at eight o'clock on the 
 morning of the 19th of July. This was her first 
 trip, and, as usual on such occasions, the Company 
 had selected the most experienced and careful captain 
 in their service to undertake the responsible office. 
 To great skill and prudence in his profession, this 
 gentleman united every quality which made him one 
 of the most agreeable persons we had met with in 
 the course of our wanderings, and it will be long ere 
 we forget the attention he showed us during our 
 passage. One could hardly wish for a more intelli- 
 gent and well-informed travelling companion, and he 
 certainly did all in his power to make our voyage 
 agreeable. 
 
 We reached Vigo on the evening of the 19th, too 
 late to land the mails or passengers; but, after a 
 rough passage of fourteen hours, some of the party 
 did not grudge spending a night in harbour. Vigo 
 stands on a high hill inside a deep bay, which is sur- 
 rounded on three sides by precipitous mountains ; it 
 might be rendered almost impregnable to a sea-force, 
 for there are three or four islands at the mouth of 
 the bay, which completely command the entrance. 
 
OPORTO. 293 
 
 We remained here till eight o'clock on the morning 
 of the 20th, but were not allowed to land, having 
 brought a foul bill of health from Lisbon. The pas- 
 sengers we left here were under the agreeable neces- 
 sity of spending ten days in quarantine. 
 
 We continued our voyage, and next morning lay 
 off Oporto from two to nine o'clock. A thick fog 
 prevented us from seeing the town, or being seen 
 from it, and the navigation is so dangerous in the 
 neighbourhood of the bar, that the captain, after 
 making many attempts by sounding to gain the har- 
 bour, was very nearly giving it up. What rendered- 
 him doubly cautious of approaching in the dark was, 
 that he had been wrecked on this very spot some 
 years before, in consequence of his captain having at- 
 tempted to go in, although he could not see an inch 
 before him. No English lives were lost on the oc- 
 casion, but the ship went down in half an hour, and a 
 number of Portuguese went down with her, having 
 wrapped themselves up in their cloaks, and being 
 either too lazy or too stupid to save themselves. 
 
 At last some boats full of passengers came along- 
 side of us, and we gave up our mail bags, which were 
 taken by the quarantine officers with a long pair of 
 tongs ! 
 
 Our party on board was very much increased by 
 
 V 3 
 
294 VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 the additions made here. The " Alhambra " being a 
 screw steamer, was wofaliy narrow, and the sleeping 
 accommodation, owing to the number of passengers, 
 very much circumscribed. We shared a four-berthed 
 cabin with two other individuals, but we were thankful 
 we were not in the ladies' cabin, where there were nine 
 French and Portuguese (so called) " ladies," who lay in 
 bed all day, and at night used to get up and go into the 
 saloon, and call for brandy and water, although from 
 the crowded state of the ship several gentlemen had 
 taken up their quarters on the table. There were a 
 great many dirty lazy Portuguese on board; the sights 
 on deck were far from agreeable, and these indolent 
 fellows lay about in all directions, making the 
 stewards bring them heaps of pillows and mattresses. 
 Among some seventy or eighty passengers, we 
 happily found some very agreeable ones, and the days 
 passed away quickly enough, unmarked by any more 
 striking incidents than a tremendous swell in the Bay 
 of Biscay, which looked like green mountains rolling 
 towards us, and the pleasing excitement of frequent 
 stoppages to cool our engines, which being new were 
 too closely fitting, and required to have water con- 
 stantly poured on them. The pumps were also kept 
 continually at work, but all this was of course set 
 down to the newness of the ship. However about 
 
VOYAGE HOME. 295 
 
 midnight on the 22nd the engines were stopped and 
 remained inactive for six hours. I conclude the pas- 
 sengers who were awake felt it incumbent on them to 
 be alarmed ; but I for my part was pleasantly rocked 
 to sleep by the swell, which was heavier than usual; 
 however we heard to our consternation next morning, 
 that the captain had been on deck all the time, and 
 had had preparations made for lowering the boats, 
 expecting momentarily to be obliged to rouse the 
 passengers, and squeezing them into five boats 
 (fourteen or fifteen into each besides the officers 
 and crew) set them to find their way two hun- 
 dred and fifty miles to the coast of France. The 
 chances of saving our lives would, I think, have been 
 pretty much the same, whether we had remained in 
 our berths, or attempted crossing the Bay of Biscay 
 in open boats. It seems that a pipe inside the boiler 
 had burst, and the captain and engineer thought at 
 first that the damage done was much more serious. 
 After a long delay it was put to rights and we con- 
 tinued our journey. 
 
 Contrary winds detained us in the Bay, and though 
 but little way was actually lost, our progress was 
 retarded by frequent stoppages, so that it was not 
 till the night of the 24th that we reached what are 
 technically termed the u Chops of the Channel ;" but 
 
 U 4 
 
296 VOYAGE HOME. 
 
 in the middle of that night occurred another incident 
 equally exciting, and of which at the time we were 
 as (blissfully) ignorant as of the former. 
 
 The captain came unexpectedly on deck, about 
 two o'clock on the morning of the 25th, and to his 
 astonishment found the ship's course was the same as 
 he had left it three or four hours before. He en- 
 quired for the officer of the watch, and was told he was 
 below ; on proceeding to his cabin, he found him in 
 a state of intoxication, having entirely forgotten to 
 desire the steersman to alter his course ! The cap- 
 tain's visit on deck was purely accidental, and, if he 
 had not done so, we should have found ourselves, in 
 an hour or two, in unpleasant contact with the coast 
 of Bretagne. 
 
 Many of the Oporto merchants on board joined in 
 petitioning that the officer might not be reported to 
 the Company, but the captain firmly though reluc- 
 tantly refused their request, for he said that no 
 punishment short of cashiering was severe enough 
 for such an offence. 
 
 We came quickly up the Channel with a light wind, 
 passing the Needles about half- past four, and feasting 
 our eyes on the lovely scenery on both sides of the 
 Solent; and as we dropped our anchor in South- 
 ampton harbour, and the sights and sounds around 
 
HOME. 297 
 
 us reminded us that we were again in Britain, — 
 
 " This royal throne of kings, this sceptred isle, 
 This precious stone set in the silver sea ; " 
 
 the centre of activity, freedom, and civilisation ; 
 the land whose name and whose people are respected 
 from pole to pole, and whose flag waves supreme 
 in every clime ; the land where science prospers, 
 and where art contributes to perfect the charms that 
 nature has so lavishly bestowed, — it was with pride 
 and exultation that we felt that this country was our 
 own. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 A good Library is a great source of comfort on board 
 a Nile boat, and amply repays the traveller for any 
 trouble or expense he may incur by an extra package. 
 Among the books which I venture to recommend from 
 experience to those who are about to make the voyage, 
 I would particularly mention Murray's Handbook for 
 Egypt ; Miss Martineau's Eastern Life ; Lane's Modern 
 Egyptians; The Crescent and the Cross; Eothen; Lord 
 Lindsay's Letters from Egypt ; Washington Irving's Life 
 of Mahomet; Wilkinson's Ancient Egyptians; Dr. Glid- 
 don'sAncient Egypt ; Lepsius' Egypt (Bohn) ; Osburn's 
 Monumental History of Egypt; and Osburn's Israel in 
 Egypt. A good map of the country is indispensable ; I 
 believe Colonel Leake's is the best. The purchase of 
 Bartlett's Nile Boat ought perhaps to be deferred till the 
 traveller's return to England, when he will gladly refresh 
 his memory and recall the Land of Egypt to his recol- 
 lection by means of the beautiful engravings of this 
 lamented and accomplished artist. In mentioning these 
 books, I of course do not mean the traveller's library to 
 consist solely of works on Egypt ; on the contrary there 
 
302 APPENDIX. 
 
 ought to be a variety of volumes, suited to the taste of 
 the reader, among which, in my opinion, amusing light 
 reading will be found very acceptable. 
 
 To the learned I would venture to suggest Herodotus 
 as an endless source of amusement ; I often regretted 
 my inability to read the works of the Father of History. 
 
 Reading is more the order of the day for ladies than 
 working, for the flies effectually prevent one doing any- 
 thing that requires the use of both hands ; one being al- 
 ways required to wield the fly-flap. 
 
 As I mentioned at the beginning of this volume, we 
 started from Paris, and were therefore unable to procure 
 many of the books we wanted. Among those we most 
 regretted was Miss Martineau's Eastern Life, which we 
 in vain tried to get, first in Paris, and then in Valetta. 
 When we arrived at Cairo we asked for it at Hammer- 
 schmidt's, where a few English books are kept ; but it 
 was not to be had. However, one fine day, our abigail, who 
 generally had her ears open, informed us that Mr. Walker 
 the English baker would be happy to lend it to us ; it 
 was the last book we should have expected a baker to 
 possess, but we gladly accepted it, and pored over 
 its pages with great pleasure. It was a one-volume 
 copy, and as we fully intended buying it of its owner 
 on our return, we made all sorts of marks and reflections 
 on its margins, and in short used it like our our own 
 book. We were continually lending it to different boats, 
 and it seemed to be the only copy up the river. Well, 
 to make a long story short, — on our arrival at Cairo we 
 sent to tell the baker that we wished to buy it of him, 
 
APPENDIX. 30 Q 
 
 when to our dismay he informed us it had been twice 
 sold, first to a party who had heard of its being in oui 
 possession, but who had been obliged to start for Syria 
 without it, before we returned from Upper Egypt ; and, 
 secondly, to a gentleman who had arrived in Cairo a few 
 hours before we did, and had hurried off to the baker's 
 to secure his prize. We were very much disconcerted 
 at this piece of news ; the lucky possessor, whom we 
 had known up the river, on hearing of our disappoint- 
 ment offered to resign his prize, but as he was going to 
 Mount Sinai and Jerusalem, and we were obliged to turn 
 our faces homewards, it would have been selfish to have 
 deprived him of so delightful a companion. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 I may offer a few remarks on the subject of a Lady's 
 Dress in Egypt ; the wardrobe, it need hardly be said, 
 must not be extensive, as everything not actually in use 
 is kept in a box under the divan which serves as a bed. 
 Miss Martineau recommends brown holland dresses, 
 which as she says are easily washed, but I would sug- 
 gest that a heavier and darker material is pleasanter, 
 particularly for riding in windy weather. A light Car- 
 melite or stout alpaca is preferable ; a barege will be 
 found desirable in the evening, or on days when the tra- 
 veller does not expect to leave the boat. A good silk 
 gown to be worn at the tables-eFhote in Cairo or Alex- 
 andria, or at occasional dejeuners or dinner parties, may 
 be considered advisable. For those who do not like to 
 
304 APPENDIX. 
 
 appear at church in hats, (as the residents are very 
 smartly rigged out on Sundays,) a good bonnet is neces- 
 sary ; and, unless the two can be combined in one, a close 
 bonnet (and the more pokey the better) must be taken 
 for windy days up the river, when it is often impossible 
 to wear a hat. All ladies, however, should be provided 
 with a broad-brimmed straw hat, with a deep crown 
 for winding a few yards of muslin round. Two or three 
 cotton umbrellas with white calico coverings are re- 
 quired, and at least three pair of stout buttoned boots ; 
 kid gauntlets are preferable to gloves of that material, 
 but some pairs of thread gloves should be taken to wear 
 over them, as in poking about in stone temples the kid 
 soon wear out. 
 
 Before speaking of cloaks, I must mention that I acted 
 upon the principle of the old Scots and Picts, who when 
 they went to battle used to tie thick woollen handker- 
 chiefs round their necks, " not for warmth, but for fight- 
 ing." So I always wore a short loose jacket, made of 
 merino and lined, not " for warmth," but to ward off the 
 sun's rays, so that with the help of a double cotton 
 umbrella I felt no bad effects from the Englishman's 
 enemy, a mid-day tropical sun. 
 
 Several shawls and plaids ought to be taken to serve 
 as blankets at night, when it is often unpleasantly cold. 
 
 With respect to creeping things, — fleas and bugs, as I 
 have said*, are necessary companions, being imported 
 from the villages in great numbers ; but for the suppres- 
 sion of other creatures, quite unmentionable, but still 
 
 * Page 125. 
 
APPENDIX. 305 
 
 reckoned among the Plagues of Egypt, we followed 
 Miss Martineau's excellent advice, which is to have 
 two suits of body linen in wear, and to change them 
 daily, hanging up the unused ones in our cabin to air 
 during the day. I may as well mention that we ran 
 nails ad libitum into our walls, and had a most con- 
 venient network of strings across the ceilings of our 
 cabins. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Nile Provisions. — The Nile-bound traveller is often 
 sorely perplexed on arriving at Cairo, as to how he is 
 to provide himself for a voyage of from three to four 
 months' duration. The wants of travellers vary much 
 in themselves, and the length of time occupied by them 
 on the river embraces fewer or more weeks, according 
 to the time, the health, or the inclinations of the wan- 
 derer, so that it would be impossible to supply a table of 
 wants suited to all ; yet the deficiency felt by many is 
 supplied by no one. The following extracts from our 
 " house accounts " at this time may, it is hoped, give an 
 idea of the necessaries required. 
 
 The journey provided for was one of three months, 
 and, as the reader will remember, the party consisted of 
 one gentleman, two ladies, and a maid. 
 
 Mr. Walker, the English baker, supplied us with 
 bread packed in barrels, biscuits, rusks, tea, preserves, 
 and salt butter. We laid in altogether, at Malta and 
 Cairo, fifteen or sixteen dozen candles. This did not 
 include those used by our maid, which were of native 
 x 
 
306 APPENDIX. 
 
 manufacture, and about the consistency of a farthing 
 rushlight. We bought them at Grima's, a Cairene 
 grocer. They cost very little, and two or three burnt 
 at a time gave a very fair light. 
 
 The wine we took with us was procured partly at 
 Malta, partly "at Cairo. Marsala and Claret are, I believe, 
 the wines generally preferred in Egypt, but of course 
 every traveller has his own ideas on that subject. 
 
 A large supply of wood and charcoal has to be laid in 
 at Cairo. It is renewed at intervals up the river. A 
 sheep is also procured at starting ; we paid twenty-seven 
 shillings for ours, but the further south we went the 
 cheaper mutton and all other provisions became. 
 
 The live stock and part of the fuel laid in at Cairo 
 amounted to four or five pounds. 
 
 Under the head of groceries, most of which may be 
 procured at Grima's, the traveller may reckon candles, 
 both English and native, copper caps, gun-wadding, 
 powder and shot, besides oil for the lanterns, potatoes, 
 rice, macaroni, vermicelli, salt, pepper, mustard, vinegar, 
 spices, oranges, and every species of stores in that line. 
 
 The fittings up of our dahabieh were as follows : — 
 
 Plates, dishes, cups and saucers, wine-glasses, tum- 
 blers, trays, Turkish coffee-cups, salt-cellars, one large 
 lantern and two smaller ones which lighted up the deck 
 at night. Candlesticks, tin foot-pans, pails, two tables 
 (one for the deck), a coffee-pot, tongs, a tin mug in which 
 the milk was fetched every morning, lucifer-matches, 
 nails, gimlets, and a hammer, a chauffer ette for heating- 
 irons, brushes, fly-flaps (much good they did us !), plenty 
 
APPENDIX. 307 
 
 of string, tow, a meat-safe, dates and walnuts, oranges and 
 bananas, quilts, one or two extra pillows, and a variety 
 of caffases, or baskets, which serve as receptacles for 
 odds and ends. 
 
 The owner of the boat or the dragoman generally pro- 
 vides plate and linen ; and a dragoman's canteen some- 
 times contains some of the articles above enumerated. 
 He also lends the national flag, and the private one is 
 procured at an Italian tailor's in the Moschi.* 
 
 I think I mentioned in a former part of this volume 
 that most of the money taken up the river is in copper 
 coins of from five to twenty paras each, as it is difficult 
 to get change anywhere but in the capital. We also 
 took some bags full of silver coin, of which there are 
 quarter- and half-piastre pieces, besides piastres, five- 
 piastre pieces, eighteen-piastre pieces called Mejidiehs, 
 and Spanish dollars worth about twenty-two piastres each. 
 In Cairo, coins of every country from Dutch guelders to 
 Indian rupees are in circulation, but English sovereigns 
 are everywhere preferred. 
 
 * The Frank quarter in Cairo. 
 
 THE END. 
 
LONDON: 
 
 FEINTED BY SPOTTCSWOODE AND fP. 
 
 NEW-STREET BQUARB, 
 
or 
 NEW WORKSJIN GENERAL LITERATURE 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 
 
 39 Paternoster Row, London. 
 
 CLASSIFIED INDEX 
 
 Agriculture and Eural Affairs. 
 
 Bayldo* on Valuing Rents, &c. . . 5 
 
 Cecil's Stud Farm 8 
 
 Hoskyns's Talpa 11 
 
 Loudon's Agriculture .... 14 
 Morton on Landed Estates . . .17 
 " (J. C.) Handbook of Dairy Hus- 
 bandry 17 
 
 Arts, Manufactures, and Archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. . 6 
 
 " Organic Chemistry ... 6 
 Cresy's Civil Engineering ... 8 
 Fairbairn's Information for Engineers . 9 
 
 " on Mills and Millwork . . 9 
 Falkener's Daedalus .... 9 
 
 « Museum of Classical Antiquities 9 
 Goodeve's Elements of Mechanism 
 G wilt's Encyclopaedia of Architecture . 
 Harford's Plates from M. Angelo . 
 Humphreys's Parables Illuminated 
 Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art . 
 
 " Commonplace-Book 
 Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther . 
 Loudon's Rural Architecture . . 
 Love's Art of Dyeing .... 
 Lowndes's Engineers' Handbook . 
 MacDougall's Campaigns of Hannibal . 
 
 " Theory of War 
 
 Moseley's Engineering .... 
 Piesse's Art of Perfumery 
 
 " Laboratory of Chemical Wonders 
 Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 
 Scoffern on Projectiles, &c. . 
 Steam Engine, by the Artisan Club 
 Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. . 
 
 Biography. 
 
 Arago's Lives of Scientific Men . . 5 
 
 Baillia's Memoir of Bate . . 5 
 
 Brialmont's Wellington .... 6 
 
 Bunsen's Hippolytus .... 7 
 
 Bunting's (Dr.) Life .... 7 
 
 Crosse's (Andrew) Memorials . . 8 
 
 Green's Princesses of England . . 10 
 
 Harford's Life of Michael Angelo . . 10 
 
 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopeedia . . 13 
 Marshman's Life of Carey, Marshrnan, 
 
 and Ward 15 
 
 " Life of Havelock ... 15 
 
 Maunder's Biographical Treasury 
 Mountain's (Col.) Memoirs . 
 Palleske's Life of Schiller 
 Parry's (Admiral) Memoirs . 
 Peel's Sketch of Sir R. Peel's Life and 
 
 Character 
 
 Piozzi's Autobiography and Letters 
 Russell's Memoirs of Moore . 
 
 " (Dr.) Life of Mezzofanti . 
 6chimmelPenninck'B (Mrs.) Life . 
 Shee's Life of Sir M. A. Shee 
 Southey's Life of Wesley 
 Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 
 Strickland's Queens of England . 
 Sydney Smith's Memoirs 
 Vr aterton's Autobiography and Essays . 
 
 Books of General Utility. 
 
 Acton's Cookery-Book . 
 
 Black's Treatise on Brewing . 
 
 Cabinet Gazetteer . 
 " Lawyer 
 
 Cust's Invalid's Own Book 
 
 Hensman's Handbook of the Constitution 
 
 Hints on Etiquette .... 
 
 Hudson's Executor's Guide . 
 " on Making Wills 
 
 Hunter's Art of Writing Precis . 
 
 Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 
 
 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopeedia 
 
 Loudon's Lady's Country Companion 
 
 Maunder's Treasury of Knowledge 
 •* Biographical Treasury 
 
 " Geographical Treasury 
 
 " Scientific Treasury 
 
 " Treasury of History 
 
 " Natural History . 
 
 Piesse's Art of Perfumery 
 
 Pitt's How to Brew Good Beer 
 
 Pocket and the Stud 
 
 Pycroft's English Reading . 
 
 Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 
 
 Riddle's Latin Dictionaries . 
 
 Roget's English Thesaurus 
 Rowton's Debater . 
 
 Short Whist 
 
 Simpson's Handbook of Dining . 
 Sleigh's Personal Wrongs and Legal 
 
 Remedies 
 
 Thomsen's Interest Tables . 
 Walford's Handybook of the Civil Service 
 Webster's Domestic Economy 
 West's How to Nurse Sick Children 
 Willich's Popular Tables 
 Wilmot's Blackstone 
 
CLASSIFIED INDEX TO CATALOGUE. 
 
 Botany and Gardening. 
 
 Hassall's British Freshwater Algse 
 Hooker's British Flora . 
 
 " Guide to Kew Gardens . 
 Lindley's Introduction to Botany . 
 
 " Synopsis of the British Flora 
 
 " Theory of Horticulture . 
 Loudon's Hortus Britannicus 
 
 " Amateur Gardener . 
 
 " Trees and Shrubs . 
 
 " Gardening 
 
 " Plants .... 
 Pereira's Materia Medica 
 Bivers's Rose -Amateur's Guide 
 ■Wilson's British Mosses . 
 
 Chronology. 
 
 Brewer's Historical Atlas 6 
 
 Bunsen's Ancient Egypt ... 7 
 Haydn's Beatson's Index . . .10 
 Jaquemet's Abridged Chronology . . 12 
 
 Commerce and Mercantile 
 Affairs. 
 
 Gilbart's Logic of Banking ... 9 
 Lorimer's Young Master Mariner . . 13 
 M'Culloch's Commerce and Navigation 15 
 Thomson's Interest Tables . . .22 
 Tooke's History of Prices . . .22 
 
 Criticism, History, and Memoirs. 
 
 Brewer's Historical Atlas ... 6 
 Bunsen's Ancient Egypt .... 7 
 " Hippolytue .... 7 
 Burke's Vicissitudes of Families . . 7 
 Chapman's Gustavus Adolphus . . 8 
 Clough's Greek History from Plutarch 8 
 Conolly's Sappers and Miners . . 8 
 Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul . . 8 
 Crowe's History of France. ... 8 
 Frazer's Letters during the Peninsular 
 
 and Waterloo Campaigns ... 9 
 Gurney's Historical Sketches . . 10 
 
 Hayward's Essays 11 
 
 Hensman's Handbook of the Constitution 11 
 
 Herschel's Essays and Addresses . .11 
 
 Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions . . 12 
 
 Kemble's Anglo-Saxons . . .18 
 
 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia . . 13 
 
 Latham'sWorks on the English Language 13 
 
 Lowe's Campaigns in Central India . 14 
 
 Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays . 14 
 
 " History of England . . 14 
 
 " Miscellaneous Writings . 14 
 
 " Speeches . . . .14 
 
 Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works . 15 
 
 " History of England . . 15 
 
 M'CtiUoch's Geographical Dictionary . 15 
 
 Maunder's Treasury of History . . 16 
 
 Merivale's History of Rome . . .16 
 
 " Roman Republic . . . 16 
 
 Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, Sec. . . 16 
 
 Mure's Greek Literature .... 17 
 
 Palleske's Life and Works of Schiller . 18 
 
 Piozzi's Autobiography and Letters . 18 
 
 Forter's Knights of Malta . . .18 
 
 Raikes's Journal 19 
 
 Rich's Roman and Greek Antiquities . 19 
 Riddle's Latin Dictionaries . . .19 
 Rogers's Essays from Edinb. Review . 19 
 " (Sam.) Recollections . . 19 
 Rogers English Thesaurus . . . 19 
 
 SchimmelPenninck's Memoirs of Port- 
 Royal 20 
 
 '•' Principles of Beauty 20 
 
 Schmitz's History of Greece ... 20 
 
 Southey's Doctor 21 
 
 Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography . 22 
 
 . " Lectures on French History . 22 
 
 Sydney Smith's Works .... 21 
 
 " Lectures . . . 21 
 
 " Memoirs . . .21 
 
 Thirl wall's History of Greece ... .22 
 
 Turner's Anglo-Saxons .... 23 
 
 White and Riddle's Latin Dictionary . 24 
 
 Whiteside's Italy 24 
 
 "VVilkins's Political Ballads ... 24 
 Wilmot's Brougham's Law Reforms . 24 
 
 Geography and Atlases. 
 
 Brewer's Historical Atlas ... 6 
 
 Butler's Geography and Atlases . 7 
 
 Cabinet Gazetteer ... .7 
 
 Johnston's General Gazetteer . . 13 
 
 M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary . 15 
 
 Maunder's Treasury of Geography . 16 
 
 Murray's Encyclopaedia of Geography . 17 
 
 Sharp's British Gazetteer . . . 20 
 
 Juvenile Books. 
 
 Amy Herbert ...... 20 
 
 CleveHall 20 
 
 Earl's Daughter (The) . . . .'20 
 
 Experience of Life 20 
 
 Gertrude 20 
 
 Howitt's Boy's Country Book . . 12 
 
 " (Mary) Children's Year . . 11 
 
 Ivors 20 
 
 Katharine Ashton 20 
 
 Laneton Parsonage .... 20 
 
 Margaret Perctval 20 
 
 Piesse'e Chymical, Natural, and Phy- 
 sical Magic 18 
 
 " Laboratory of Chvmical Wonders 18 
 Pycroft's Collegian's Guide . . .19 
 
 Medicine, Surgery, &c. 
 
 Brodie's Psychological Inquiries 
 Bull's Hints to Mothers . 
 
 " Management of Children 
 Copland's Dictionary of Medicine 
 Cust's Invalid's Own Book 
 Holland's Mental Physiology . 
 
 " Medical Notes and Reflections 
 Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 
 Pereira's Materia Medica 
 Spencer's Principles of Psychology 
 Todd's Cyclopaedia of Anatomy and 
 
 Physiology 
 
 West on Children's Diseases . 
 
 " Nursing Sick Children 
 
 Miscellaneous Literature. 
 
 Bacon's (Lord) Works . 
 Boase's Philosophy of Nature 
 Bray on Education of the Feelings . 
 Defence of Eclipse of Faith . 
 Eclipse of Faith .... 
 Greyson's Select Correspondence . 
 
 Gurney's Exening Recreations 
 Hassall's Adulterations Detected, &c. 
 Haydn's Book of Dignities 
 Holland's Mental Physiology 
 
CLASSIFIED INDEX TO CATALOGUE. 
 
 Hooker's Kew Guide 
 
 Howard's Gymnastic Exercises 
 
 Howitt's Rural Life of England 
 
 " Visits to Remarkable Places 
 
 Jameson's Commonplace-Book 
 
 Jeffrey's (Lord) Essays . 
 
 Macaulay's Critical and Hist Essays 
 " Speeches 
 
 Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works 
 
 Martineau's Miscellanies 
 
 Newman on University Education 
 
 " Office & Work of Univ'e rsities 
 
 " 's Lectures and Essays 
 
 Pycroft's English Reading 
 
 Rich's Dictionary of Antiquities . 
 
 Riddle's Latin Dictionaries . 
 
 Rowton's Debater .... 
 
 Sir Roger De Coverley . 
 
 Smith's (Rev. Sydney) Works 
 
 Southey's Doctor, &c. 
 
 Spencer's Essays .... 
 
 Stephen's Essays .... 
 
 Stdw's Training System . 
 
 Thomson's Laws of Thought 
 
 Trevelyan on the Native Languages 
 India 
 
 White & Riddle's Latin Dictionary 
 
 Wit and Wisdom of Sydney Smith 
 
 Yonge's English-Greek Lexicon . 
 " Latin Gradus . 
 
 Zumpt's Latin Grammar 
 
 Natural History in general. 
 
 Agassiz on Classification 
 Catlow's Popular Concholo^y 
 Ephemera's Book of the Salmon . 
 Garratt's Marvels of Instinct . _. 
 Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica 
 
 Hartwig's Sea and its Living Wonders . 10 
 Kirby and Spence's Entomology . . 13 
 Lee's Elements of Natural History . 13 
 Maunder's Natural History . .15 
 
 Quatrefages' Rambles of a Naturalist . 19 
 Stonehenge on the Dog . . . .22 
 Turton's Shells of the British Islands . 23 
 Waterton's Essays on Natural History . 23 
 Youatt's The Dog .... 24 
 
 " The Horse .... 24 
 
 One-Volume Encyclopaedias 
 Dictionaries. 
 
 Blaine's Rural Sports .... 
 Brande's Science, Literature, and Art . 
 Copland's Dictionary of Medicine 
 Cresy's Civil Engineering 
 Gwilt's Architecture .... 
 Johnston's Geographical Dictionary 
 Loudon's Agriculture . 
 
 " Rural Architecture 
 
 " Gardening . 
 
 " Plants 
 
 " Trees and Shrubs . 
 M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary . 
 " Dictionary of Commerce . 
 
 Murray's Encyclopaedia of Geography . 
 Sharp's British Gazetteer 
 Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. . 
 Webster's Domestic Economy 
 
 Keligious and Moral Works. 
 
 Afternoon of Life 
 
 Amy Herbert 
 
 Bloomfield's Greek Testament 
 
 and 
 
 Bloomfield's Supplementary Annota- 
 tions on the Greek Testament . . 6 
 Bray on Education of the Feelings . 6 
 Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress . . 7 
 Calvert's Wife's Manual . . . .7 
 Catz and Farlie's Moral Emblems . 8 
 
 CleveHall 20 
 
 Conybeare and Howson'8 St. Paul . 8 
 
 Cotton's Instructions in Christianity . 8 
 
 Dale's Domestic Liturgy ... 9 
 
 Defence of Eclipse of Faith ... 9 
 Earl's Daughter (The) . . . .20 
 
 Eclipse of Faith 9 
 
 Experience (The) of Life . . . 20 
 
 Gertrude 20 
 
 Hoare on the Veracity of Gtnesis . .11 
 
 Home's Introduction to Scriptures . 11 
 
 " Abridgment of ditto • . . 11 
 
 Humphreys's Parables Illuminated . 12 
 
 Ivors, by the Author of Amy Herbert . 20 
 
 Jameson's Saint* and Martyrs . .12 
 
 " Monastic Legends . . 12 
 
 " Legends of the Madonna . 12 
 
 " on Female Employment . . 12 
 
 Jeremy Taylor's Works . •. . .13 
 
 Katharine Ashton 20 
 
 Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther . . 10 
 
 Laneton Parsonage 20 
 
 Lyra Germanica 7 
 
 Maguire's Rome 15 
 
 Margaret Percival 20 
 
 Marshman's S<rampore Mission . . 15 
 
 Martineau's Christian Life . . .15 
 
 " Hymns . . . .15 
 
 " Studies of Christianity . 15 
 
 Merivale's Christian Records . . 16 
 
 Moore on the Use of the Body . . 17 
 
 " " Soul and Body . . 17 
 
 " 's Man and his Motives . . 17 
 
 Morning Clouds 17 
 
 Moseley's Astro- Theology . . .17 
 
 Neale's Closing Scene .... 17 
 
 Powell's Christianity without Judaism . 18 
 
 „ Order of Nature ... 19 
 
 Readings for Lent 20 
 
 " Confirmation ... 20 
 Riddle's Household Prayers ... 19 
 Robinson's Lexicon to the Greek Tes- 
 tament 19 
 
 SchimmelPenninck's Sacred Musings . 20 
 
 Self-Examination for Confirmation . 20 
 
 Sew ell's History of the Early Church . 20 
 
 " Passing Thoughts on Religion 20 
 
 Smith's (Sydney) Moral Philosophy . 21 
 
 " (G.) Wesleyan Methodism . 21 
 
 " (J.) Shipwreck of St Paul . 21 
 
 Southey's Life of Wesley ... 21 
 
 Spitta's Lyra Domestica . . .22 
 
 Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography . 22 
 
 Theologia Germanica .... 7 
 
 Thumb Bible (The) .... 22 
 
 Poetry and the Drama. 
 
 Aikin's (Dr.) British Poets ... 5 
 
 Arnold's Merope 5 
 
 " Poems 5 
 
 Calvert's Wife's Manual .... 7 
 Goldsmith's Poems, illustrated . . 9 
 L. E. L.'s Poetical Works . . .13 
 Linwood's Anthologia Oxonieasis . 13 
 
 Lyra Germanica 7 
 
 Macaulay 's Lays of Aneient Rome . 14 
 MacDonald's Within and Without . 14 
 
 " Poem 1* 
 
 Montgomery's Poetical Works . .17 
 
CLASSIFIED INDEX TO CATALOGUE. 
 
 Moore's Poetical Works . 
 
 " Selections (illustrated) . 
 
 " Lalla Rookh 
 
 " Irish Melodies . . . 
 
 " National Melodies 
 
 " Sacred Son«s {with Music) 
 
 " Songs and Ballads . 
 Power's Virginia's Hand 
 Shakspeare, by Bowdler . 
 Southey's Poetical Works 
 Spitta's Lyra Domestica . 
 Thomson's Seasons, illustrated 
 Warburton's Hunting Songs . 
 Wilkins's Political Ballads . 
 
 The Sciences in general and 
 Mathematics. 
 
 Arago's Meteorological Essays 
 " Popular Astronomy . 
 
 Boase's Philosophy of Nature . 
 
 Bourne on the Steam Engine 
 
 " 's Catechism of Steam-Engine . 
 
 Boyd's Naval Cadet's Manual 
 
 Biande's Dictionary of Science, &c. 
 " Lectures on Organic Chemistry 
 
 Conington's Chemical Analysis . 
 
 Cresy's Civil Engineering 
 
 De la Rive's Electricity ... 
 
 Grove's Correlation of Physical Forces 
 
 Herschel's Outlines of Astronomy . 
 
 Holland's Mental Physiology . 
 
 Humboldt's Aspects of Nature 
 Cosmos 
 
 Hunt on Light 
 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopsedia 
 Vlarcet's (Mrs.) Conversations 
 Morell's Elements of Psychology . 
 Moseley's Astro-Theology 
 
 '* Engineering and Architecture 
 Ogilvie's Master- Builder's Plan . 
 Owen's Lectures on Comp. Anatomy 17 i 
 Pereira on Polarised Light . . . J 
 Peschel's Elements of Physics . . ] 
 Phillips's Mineralogy .... I 
 
 " Guide to Geology . . . ] 
 Piesse's Laboratory of Chymical Wonders 
 Powell's Unity of Worlds . . . 1 
 
 " Christianity without Judaism I 
 
 " Order of Nature . . . ! 
 Ramsay's Glaciers of North Wales and 
 
 Switzerland 
 
 Smee's Electro- Metallurgy . '. 
 Steam-Engine, by the Artisan Club . 
 Tate on Strength of Materials . . ' 
 Twisden's Examples in Mechanics . ! 
 Webb's Celestial Objects for Common 
 Telescopes ' 
 
 Kural Sports. 
 
 Baker's Rifle and Hound in Ceylon 
 Blaine's Dictionary of Sports . 
 Cecil's Stable Practice . 
 
 " Stud Farm . 
 Dead Shot (The) 
 Ephemera on Angling . 
 
 " Book of the Salmon 
 Freeman and Salvin's Falconr 
 Hamilton's Reminiscences of 
 Sportsman .... 
 Hawker's Young Sportsman . 
 Howard's Athletic Exercises . 
 The Hunting-Field . 
 Idle's Hints on Shooting 
 Pocket and the Stud 
 
 Practical Horsemanship . ... 10 
 Pycroft's Cricket-Field . . . .19 
 
 Richardson's Horsemanship . . . 19 
 
 Ronalds's Fly-Fisher's Entomology . 19 
 
 Salmon Fishing in Canada ... 5 
 
 Stable Talk and Table Talk ... 10 
 
 Stonehenge on the Dog . . . 22 
 
 " " Greyhound . . 22 
 
 The Stud, for Practical Purposes . . 10 
 
 Veterinary Medicine, &c. 
 
 Cecil's Stable Practice .... 8 
 
 " Stud Farm 8 
 
 Hunting-Field (The) .... 10 
 Miles's Horse-Shoeing , . . .16 
 " on the Horse's Foot" . . .16 
 Pocket and the Stud . . . . 10 
 Practical Horsemanship . . . .10 
 Richardson's Horsemanship . . .19 
 Stable Talk and Table Talk ... 10 
 Stonehenge on the Dog . . . . 22 
 
 Stud (The) 10 
 
 Youatt's The Dog 24 
 
 « The Horse . . . .24 
 
 Voyages and Travels. 
 
 Baker's Wanderings in Ceylon . . 5 
 Barth's African Travels .... 5 
 Burton's East Africa .... 7 
 " Lake Regions of Central Africa 7 
 " Medina and Mecca ... 7 
 Domenech's Deserts of North America 9 
 " Texas and Mexico . . 9 
 Forester's Sardinia and Corsica . . 9 
 Hill's Peru and Mexico . . . .11 
 HinchlifTs Travels in the Alps . . 11 
 Hind's North American Exploring Ex- 
 peditions 11 
 
 Howitt's Victoria . . . . .11 
 
 Hue's Chinese Empire . . . 12 
 
 Hudson and Kennedy's Mont Blanc . 12 
 
 Humboldt's Aspects of Nature . . 12 
 
 Hutchinson's Western Africa . . 12 
 
 Kane's Wanderings of an Artist . . 13 
 
 Lady's Tour round Monte Rosa . . 13 
 
 Lowe's Central India in 1857 and 1858 14 
 
 M'Clure's North-West Passage . . 17 
 
 Minturn's New York to Delhi . . 16 
 
 MSllhausen's Journey to the Pacific . 17 
 Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers . . .18 
 Ramsay's Glaciers of North Wales and 
 
 Switzerland 19 
 
 Senior's Journal in Turkey and Greece 20 
 Snow's Tierra del Fuego . . . .21 
 
 Tennent's Ceylon 22 
 
 Weld's Vacations In Ireland ... 24 
 
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 " Pyrenees, West and East . . 34 
 
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 Whiteside's Italy 24 
 
 Wills's " Eagle's Nest" .... 24 
 
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 Sewell's Ursula 
 Simpkinson's Washingtons 
 Sir Roger De Coverley . 
 Sketches (The), Three Tales . 
 Southey's Doctor, &c. 
 Trollope's Barchester Towers 
 " Warden 
 
 . 11 
 
 . 16 
 . 20 
 . 21 
 . 21 
 . 21 
 . 21 
 . 22 
 
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