\ ( 1' . / ^ //^ V.,^ 261 \ R A D ]\ R ^ 3an}wlarn£A¥, Ed±rC . 1660 BLACK'S PICTURESQUE GUIDE TO NORTH WALES TO TOURISTS. TMe Editor of this Guide will be glad to receive any Notes or Cor- rections that may he sent to hint by Tourists making use •Tf the Work. Address, 6 North Bridge, Edinburgh. BLACK'S PICTURESQUE GUIDE NORTH WALES FIFTH EDITION SNOWDON SUMMIT. EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK CHESTEK : CATHERALL AND PEICHARD 1874 \,Entered at Stationers' IIall.~[ CONTENTS. P&OE Welsh Alphabet .... . viii Glossary ..... X Welsh "Vocabulary for Tourists xii Distance and Mountain Tables xiv General Description of Wales . 1 Chester and Neighbourhood . 5 Railways at Chester .... 11 Chester to Mold .... . 12 Chester to Holyhead, vid Conway, Llandudno, and Bangor 17 jnintsi^irE ..... 22 Bangor and Vicinity .... 51 Bangor to Holyhead — route continued 73 anslcstg ..... 79 ffl:arnarfaonsI)tr£ .... 81 Carnarvon Town .... 83 Carnarvon to Pwllheli .... 87 Carnarvon to Llanberis and Beddgelert 93 Llanberis ..... . 95 Snowdon ..... 98 Llandudno to Bettws-y-Coed and Capel Curig 107 Vale of Conway .... 109 Carnarvon to Beddgelert by Llyn Cwellj-n 122 Beddgelert and Vicinity 127 Tremadoc and Portmadoc 131 ^n^^ Qp^ VI CONTENTS. Qcnbigfjsfjtrc . . . . . . .133 Vale of Clwyd. (Rhuddlan— Dyserth— St. Asaph— Denbigh— and Ruthin) ...... 134-151 Wtxiond\)5\)ixt . . . . . .152 Chester and Ruabon to Dolgellj', vid Gresford, Wrexham, etc. 157 Llangollen and Vicinity . . . . .166 Corwen ....... 170 Bala ........ 173 Dolgelly . . . . . .178 Caderldiis . *181 Dolgelly to Barmouth . . . . . .188 Harlech — Tan - y - Bwlch — Maentwrog — Festiniog — and Towyn ...... 190-199 lilnntgotnergsfjire . . . . . .200 Oswestry . . . . , . .202 Shrewsbury ....... 206 Shrewsbury or Oswestry to Machynlleth, vid Welshpool, Newtown, and Llanidloes Index 209-224 . 225 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Map of North. "Wales End of Volume. Menai Tubular and Suspension Bridges Frontispiece. Summit of Snowdon Vignette title. The Rows, Chester . . . . . Page 5 Palace of the Stanleys ojF Alderley, Chester . 9 Plan of Llandudno 41 Plan of Conway . 43 Conway Castle . . . . 44 Chart of Kailways in Worth "Wales 48 View of Bangor . . . . 51 Penrhjm Castle . . . . 54 Carnarvon Castle 85 Eagle Tower, Carnarvon Castle 93 Llanberis Lake . . . . 95 "Waterfall of the Great Chasm, Llanberis 97 Chart of Snowdon 98 Snowdon, from near Capel Curig . 118 Devil's Kitchen and FaU of the Ogwen 121 NantMill .... 123 Craig Cwm Bychan (Llyn Cwellyn) . 125 Beddgelert (roadside) 127 Do. View 128 Gelert's Grave 129 Pont Aberglaslyn . 130 Denbigh Castle 146 Chart of Cader Idris 181 View of Cader Idris from Tal-y-Llyu 182 Fall of the Cain 184 Harlech Castle 191 Vale of Festiuiog from Road to Harlech 194 Pistyll-Rliayadr, Denbighshire 211 Powis Castle 215 WELSH ALPHABET. I Cbaractere. I Names. B b C c Ch ch 1 Ff ff I 6 g I'l^ L i LI U. H m xS n o 6 p P VI ph ah eb ek uch D d ed Dd dd uth E e ay ef eg aitch el elth Sounds, or Powers. ep uph As the English a in man, ran ; never aa in abU, stable. As a in bard, hard, glass. As in English. Always lilce the English k, or as c in can, come; never like », as in city, cistern. Has no similar character in English ; but is like the Greek x, or the German d). The sound ig produced by the contact of the tongue and palate a little farther back than when k is expressed. As in English. As th in thus, that, neither ; never as in thick, throw. As the English e in mcTi^ bed. As a in dame, came; tims cid, advantage, is pro- nounced as if written kade. As the English v, or likeyin of; thus gof, a smith, is pronounced gove. As the ¥,wg\\sh f in fetch, fat. As the English g in go, give, leg ; never soft, as m gem, genial. In composition an initial g is dropped, as gwr, a man ; yr htn tcr, the old man; gl&n, the bank of a river; ary Ian, upon the bank. As the English ng in long. As in English, an aspiration, or breathing. As the English i in rich, king ; never as in fire, bind. As the English ee in fleet, keep ; thus cil, a retreat, is pronounced keel. As in English. L aspirated, a sound peculiar to the Welsh language ; but the Italian gl, and the Spanish II are nearly similar. It is uttered by placing the tip of the tongue against the roof of the mouth a little farther back than for /, and breathing through the teeth on both sides. Llangollen is pronounced nearly as if written Khlangothlen. As in English. As in English. As the English o in gcme, lot. As the English o in bone, note ; thus modd, a mode or form, is pronounced mothe, or nio.oihe. As in English. As in English. V7ELSH ALPHABET. Characters. tiames. Sounds, or Powers. R r er As in English. S s es As in English. T t et As in English Th th uth As the English th in (hank, both, throto , never as in them, (Ais. It is thus distinguished from dd. U a ea As the English u in bttsy, and as t in him, sin, bliss, but rather more open. ft As the English double e in qveen. green; thus du, black, is pronounced as if written dee ; sul, the sun, as seal. W w 00 As the English o in do, who. v^ As the English double o in fool, spoon. Thus mu'g, smoke, is pronounced mooff. Y y nr In an}' other syllable than the last, like the English u in butj hunt, chum. In the last syllable the sound is more like that of i in din, sin. It is the same in monosyllables, with a few excep- tions. In these exceptions, namely, drj, fy, y, ydd, ym, yn, yr, ys, myn, the sound is that of M, in but, &c., as above. These two sounds are exemplified in the two syllables of the word sundry. ? Is exactly the same as fl, viz. as ee in green. Thus byd, the world, is pronounced beed. The following six letters are not found in the "Welsh language:— J, K, Q, V, X, and Z. J is supplied by si, or ». K is supplied by c or ch. Q, in words taken from other languages, is expressed by cw, aa cwestiirn, question. V is supplied hy f. X, in foreign words having this letter, is indicated by cs, as Ecsodus, i.e. Exodus. Z is supplied by s. Every character represents uniformly but one appropriate sound, which it retains in every variety of combination ; with the single exception of y, as above stated. No letter is ever mute. The accentuation is governed by one general rule, which is this. All words of more than one sj-llable have the accent on the penultima, or last syllable but one ; excepting onlj- a few instances, in which the last syllable, being either aspirated or circumflexed, takes the accent. It is. never removed farther from the termination than the penultima. It is believed that an acquaintance with the alphabet, and with these few simple rules, is all that is requisite for enabling any person to read the Welsh language ; and in this respect it has an advantage found in few other tongueu GLOSSAEY EXPLANATION OP WORDS AND PARTICLES FREQUENTLY OCCUR RING IN THE WELSH NAMES OF PLACES, ETC. A ft (or Ap), prefixed to names of per- sons, signifies, the sou of. Aber, the fall of one water into an- other, a ponfluence. Acron, fruits, brightness. Af'm, a stream, a river. At, power, very, most. AlH, the side of a liill, a woody cliff. Am, about, around. Anial, wild, uncultivated. A nnedd, dwelling-place. Ar, upon, bordering upon. Aran, a high place, an alp. Ardal, region, province. Ardud, bordering land. Bach, and Bychan, (masc.) little, small, (Jen.) Fach and Fechan. Bala, budding, an outlet. Ban, high, tall, lofty, (pi.) Banau, eminences. Banc, platform, table-land. Bds, shallow, a shoal. Bedd, a grave, a sepulchre. Bettws, a station, a place between hill and vale, a chapel of ease. Blaen, a point, end, extremity. Bod, an abode, dwelUng, residence. Bon, the base. Braenar, fallow land. Braich, an arm, a branch. Brig, top, summit. Brith, mixed, motley. ' Bron, the breast, a swell or slope of a hill. Bryn, a mount or hilL Bw, an ox. Bwlch, or Bylch, a hoUow, break, gap, pass, or defile. Cad, battle, tumult, war. Cader,a hill-fort, a fortress or strong- hold, a chair. Cae, a hedge, field, enclosure. Caer, a wall or mound for defence, a fort, a city. Cantref, a district, a division, or hundred of a county, a canton. Capel, a chapel, an oratory. Careg, a stone, {pi.) Ceryg. Carn, a heap, a jirominence. Carnedd, a heap of stones, a cairn, Castell, a castle, a fortress. Ceulan, side of a river, bank. Cefn, the back, upper side, ridge. CU, a retreat, a recess (pi.) Ciliau. Clasdir, glebe land. Clawdd, a hedge, dyke, ditch, or trench. Clogwyn, a precipice. Coch, red. Coed, a wood, trees. Cor, or Gor, a choir. Corlan, a sheep-pen or fold. Cars, a bog, a fen. Craig, a rock, a crag, (pi.) Creigiau. Croes, a cross, a turn. Crug, a mound or hillock, a crag or rock. Cwm,, a valley, dale, glen, or dingle. Cymmer, a confluence. Dan, under. Dau, two, (fcm.) Dviy. De, the south, right side. Din, or Dinas, a fort, a fortified place generally on ahill, a city. Hence the donuni, dinum, or dinium of the Romans, also the don, ton, and town of the English. Ddl, a holm, a meadow. Drivs, a doorway, a pass. DH., black, dark. Dvfr, or Dwr, fluid, water. Dyffryn, a valley or plain, the course of waters. Eglwys, a church. Epynt, an ascent, a slope. Erw. an acre, a space of arable land Esgair, a long ridge. Fach and Fechan, see Back. Fawr, mutation of Maivr. Ffald, a fold or pen for shpep. Ffin, boundary, limit GLOSSARY. F/ur, bright hue, bloom. Ffordd, a passage, road, or way. Ffynnon, a well, spring, or source. Gaer, mutation of Caer. GalU, mutable mto Allt. Gardd, a garden, a close. Garth, a hill bending round or en- closing, a butress, a cape. Gelli, a grove, bower, hazel coppice. Glan, the brink, a side or shore. Glds, blue, grey, green, verdant. Glyn, a glen, a deep vale. Gorsaf, a station, a stand. Grug, a heath. Gwaelod, the bottom, a low part. Gwaen, a plain, a level meadow. Gii)er7i,a swamp, bog, watery meadow Gvjydd, wood, woody or wild. Gwyn, white, fair, clear. Gviyrdd, green. Uafod, a summer dwelling. Ben. old, ancient. HendreJ, an old residence. Heol, a street, road, or course. Hir, long, tedious. Idl, an open space, a region. Is, or ys, lower, inferior. leaf, lowest, humblest ; Isel, low. Llain, a long patch, a slip. Llan, a smooth area, an enclosure, a place of meeting, the church- place or\'illage, and hence, figu- ratively, the church. Llawr, the floor, a ground plot. Llech, a flat stone, or slate, a smooth clitT. Lluest, an encampment. Llwyd, grey, hoary, brown. Llwyn, a wood, grove, bush, or copse Llyn, a lake, pool, pond. Llyr, a duct, brink, or shore, the sea, water. Llys, a palace, hall, or court. Maxih, a place of security. ilaen, a stone. Maenor, a manor. Maes, a plain, an open field. Mall, bad, rotten, blasted. Mawiwg, a peatpit, a turbary. Mairr, great, large. ilelin, a mill. Melyn, yellow. Merthyr, a martyr. Moel, fair, bald, naked, a smooth co- nical hill. Monad, an isolated situation. Mor/a, a sea marsh. Mynach, a monk. Ui/nvdd, a mountain. Nant, a brook, river, rarine, glei^ Neuadd, a hall, a large room Newydd, new, fresh. Or, or Ochr, side, edge, rim, border Paith, a prospect, a scene. Pant, a low place, ahoUow, avalle>. Parth, a part, or division. Pen, a head, top, or end. Penmaen, the stone end. Penrhyn (or Penryn), a headland, a cape. Pentref, a village, hamlet, suburb. Perth, a thorn busli, a brake. Pistyll, a spout or cataract. Plcis, a hall, mansion, or palace. Plwyf, a parish, a community. Pont, a bridge. Porth, a gate, a port, a ferry. Pwll, a ditch, a pit, a pool. Rhayadr, a waterfall or cataract. Rhiw, a slope, an ascent. iJAos, a moist plain or meadow, mooi RhUdd, purple, red, crimson, raddy Rh^d, a ford, a passage. Sara, a causeway, a pavement Serth, steep, abrupt. Swydd, shire or county, also an office Tal (subs.), the head, the front. Tal (adj.), tall or towering. Tan, spreading, under. Tavarn, a tavern. Terfyn, limit, extremity. Tir, the earth, land. Tomen, a mound, a hillock, dunghill. Traeth, sand, a sandy beach, as estuary. Tref, or Tre, a house, a home, t small town. Tri, three, (fern.) Tair. Troed, a foot, the base of a hill. Trwyn, a point, the nose. Twl, rounded. Twlch, a knoLL T^, a tower, a heap, a pile Ty, a house, a mansion. Tyddyn, a fami. Tywyn, a strand. ITe7icZ, high ; Uchaf, highest. Uwch, or dcft, or uch, upper, above r, or Yr, the. ym, in. Yn, in, into, at. y?ij/s, an island. Yspytty, an almshouse, or hospital a place for refreshment, or rest Ystlys, the side, the flank. Ystrad, a flat, a vale. Ystxim, a bend, a cui-ve. Ystwyth, flexible, pUani. WELSH VOCABULAEY Words not contained in this very limited vocabulary may often Questions and Orders. English, Welsh. 1 Good morning ; Good night Boreu da ; Nosdawch How do you do ? Sut jT ydych ? If you please Os byddwch gystal. Bring me De'wch I want Mae arnaf eisiau Have you any ... ? Oes genych ddim ... ? "Where is the ... ? Pa le mae y ... ? Wliich is the way to ... ? Pa un j\\ y ffordd ... ? How far is it to ... ? Pa cyn belled ydj-w i ... ? "Wliat is the name of this piace ? Pa beth yvv enw y ? "WTio lives there ? P^vy sydd yn Innv yna ? "WTio is the minister here ? P^vy jnv y gweinidog 3'ma ? "What time is it ? Pa faint o'r dydd ydyw ? Shall we have rain ? A ga^^Ti ni wlaw ? Can I have a bed here to-night ? A allaf fi gael g^ve]y yma heno ? Can you get me a bed in your A ellwch gael gwely i mi yn y gym- neighbourhood ? dogaeth ? Dry my clothes Sychwch fy nillad Can you get my linen washed ? A ellwch gael golchi fy linens ? Take care of my horse CJ^ne^wch ofal fy nghetfyl Call me in the morning at ... Galwch arnaf yn y bore am ... o'r o'clock gloch i Get my breakfast at ... o'clock Ceisiwch fy mrecwest yn barod erbyn ... o'r gloch Wiat have I to pay ? bring my bill Beth sydd arnaf i'w dalu ? Dewch a'm bil Can you give me change ? A ellwch chwi roi newid i mi ? Get the horses ready Ceisiwch y ceflylau yn barod Where is the post-ofhce ? Yn mha le mae'r post-office ? At what hour are the letters de- Am ba awT y mae y llythjTau yn livered ? cael eu rhoi aHan • At what hour does the post-office Am ba awr y cauir y post-office ? close ? N.B — This Vocabulary is based on that of H. Humphreys of Caernarvon, FOIl TOUETSTS. be efficiently supplied by their English name, or by manual sign. Names of Things. English. One, two, three Four, live, six Seven, eight, nine Ten, eleven, twelve Mile Pint, quart Ounce, pound Penny, shilling Hour, hours To-duy To-iuorrow Sun Mun Tui'S Wfdnes Thurs Fri Satur day IMan, men Woman I'oy Parson Physician InnkecpiT, publican Shopkeeper. Waiter Wan servant, maid servant Horse, dog Pens Welsh. Un, dau, tri Pedwar, pump, chwech Saith, wyth, naw Deg, un - ar - ddeg, deuddeg Milldir Peint, chwart Owns, pwys Ceiniog, swllt Awr, oriau Heddyw Y fory Dydd Sul. Llun. IMawrth. Mercher. lau. Gwener. ^SadwTU. Djm, dynion Dynes Bachgen Otfeiriad Physyg\vr Innkeeper, tafarnwr Siopwr Waiter Gwas, moi-wyn Ceffyl, ci Writing pens Enqlish. Ink Writing paper Bread, butter Cheese, egg Ham Cold meat ]>eef, mutton Tea, coil'ee Water Milk Brandy Beer, porter Candles Clothes Cap Coat Trowsers Boots, shoes Stockings ]\Iountain Hill Valley Waterfall River Bridge Ferry Road, path Village Church Inn House Room, key Welsh. Ink Papyr ysgrifenu Bara, ymenyu Caws, wy Ham Cig oer ])cef, mutton Te, coffi Dwfr Llaeth Brandi Cwrw, porter CanwyLiau DiUad Cap Cot Trowsers Bwtches, esgidiau Hosanau Mynydd Bryn Dyliryn Rliaiadr Afon Pont Forth Ffordd, llywbr Pentref Eglwys Inn Ty Ystafell, agoriad to whicli those who desire a larger list of words and phrases are refeired. ^ Co s^ » rn Q H W (-1 pq t- 1^ o\ eg t^ ?. a , •^ 2 < z -a ■c ^ P % <5 c o S P s o s •a 13 •a u C E a o C •a T3 & 4 6 o cS .s 5 /^ '^^^ ^ Q v ^, ^^'^ o o o < CO s^ ^ ^ O CO ON O -irO Tj- N rt- — O ■" = ^ij CN N rooo t^ Cv CnvO 00 N vO on '+CO ri O — >-j;'-)>-i>-''-'ONrON- ^^ BLACK'S PICTUEESQUE GUIDE TO NORTH WALES. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF WALES. Wales is the south-west portion of the island of Great Britain, bounded on the north by the Irish Sea and by the estuary of the river Dee, west by St. George's Channel, south by the Bristol Channel, and east by the English counties of Chester, Salop, Hereford, and Monmouth. It includes twelve counties, of which six form the northern division — viz. Flint, Denbigh, Carnarvon, Anglesea, Merioneth, and Montgomery ; and six the southern division — viz. Cardigan, Radnor, Brecon, Gla- morgan, Carmarthen, and Pembroke. It was formerly of greater extent, comprehending, in addition, the whole of Monmouthshire, and considerable portions of the other con- tiguous counties, which are now incorporated with England. Its greatest length, from the extremity of Flintshire in the north to that of Glamorganshire in the south, is about 140 mUes, while its breadth varies from 40 to 90 miles — being at its northern extremity about 70 miles, at its centre, or the line dividing North and South Whales, not more than 40 miles, and towards the south, from the borders of Monmouth to St. David's in Pembrokeshire, about 90 miles. Its superficial ex- tent is computed to be 7397 square statute miles, or 4,734,486 statute acres. The population in 1871 was 1,216,420. The country derived the name of Wales, and the inhabit- ants that of Welsh, from the Saxons, who, by these terms, B N 2 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF WALES. denoted a land and a people to Avliich they were strangers The "Welsh have always called themselves Cymri, of which the strictly literal meaning is aborigines; and their language Crjm- raecj, that is, the primitive tongue, whence the Romans appear to have called the country Cambria. Into this country the ancient Britons retreated from the advances of successive invaders, and here, maintaining their independence, they heroically defended themselves against the attacks of enemies possessing superior numbers and power, and everywhere besides victorious. The Romans were unable to reduce them to complete subjection ; and the Saxons, although masters of the neighboui'ing land, could never secure continued possession of Wales, excepting of the counties of Monmouth and Hereford. During these struggles "Wales was divided into six principalities, under the dominion of one king invested with supreme authority. At length, owing to internal dissen- sions, the strength of the country was so diminished as to be- come incapable of preventing the incursions of their enemies. The Mercians, under King Offa, laid waste extensive districts, and, wresting a portion from the AVelsh princes, reduced the country to nearly its present limits, and erected that famous boundary, extending from near the mouth of the river Dee to the confluence of the "Wye and Severn, which is still called Clawd Offa, or Offa's Jjifhe. About the year 843 Roderic succeeded to the sovereignty of Wales. He divided it into three principalities, named Venedotia, or North Wales — Povesia, or Powysland — and Demetia, or South Wales, which, during his life, were governed by princes acting under his authority, and at his death were ruled by his three sons, whose royal residences were at Aberflfraw in Anglesey, at Dinevwr in Carmarthenshire, and at Mathraval in Montgomeryshire. During the Danish ascendency in Britain little is heard of Wales, The Danes made some incursions on the coast, but acquired no permanent footing in the country. From that time, although sometimes compelled to acknowledge the superior power of the kings of England, the Welsh people continued under their own princes and laws. Their mountainous coun- try, defended by British valour, remained the secure retreat of British independence, and was never entirely subjected to the crown of England till during the reign of Edward I., when GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF WALES. 3 Llewelyn-ap-GiyfFyd, Prince of Wales, through treachery, lost both his life and his dominions. Edward, the better to secure his conquest, and to reconcile the Welsh to a foreign power, sent his queen to Carnarvon, where she gave birth to a son, who, being thus a native of their own country, was the more readily acknowledged as their prince. From that period the eldest sons of the kings of England have commonly been styled Princes of Wales, and as such have derived certain revenues from that country. After the conquest of Wales by Edward I. its laws under- went material alterations, and were gradually assimilated to those of England, until, in the time of Henry VIII., the statute which completed the dependency of the principality, at the same tinie gave the utmost advancement to its prosjDerity ; and this brave people, conquered into the enjoyment of Kberty, were made fellow-citizens with their conquerors. Having thus been the scene of heroic struggles for freedom, continued through many centuries, and in opposition to the attacks of different nations, Wales abounds with the remaius of encampments, lines of circumvallation, fortresses, castles, and castellated mansions. Xowhere, indeed, are to be found in greater number and variety such specimens of military architecture, in the diversified styles of different people and distant periods. The remains of ecclesiastical structures also abound in every part of Wales. Innumerable vestiges of the superstitious ceremonies of Druidical worship lie scattered over the face of the country. Everywhere, too, are foimd edifices erected at later periods for religious purj)oses, as cathedrals, abbeys, monasteries, and churches, some entire, and others in various stages of dilapidation, evincing the progress of architectural science, illustrating the history of successive ages, and serving at once to stimulate and to reward archaeological research. In the natural aspect of the country, its mountains and hills, its valleys and glens, its lakes and rivers, are exhibited scenes of beauty and of grandeur, which in few regions can be sui-passed ; while these are, for the most part, associated with historical events and traditionary legends of more than ordinary interest, and with the mouldering monuments of past ' ages, scarcely less striking than the splendid and romantic scenery. The inhabitants, too, are stUl a distinct and very remark- 4 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF WALES. able people ; speaking the language of their remote ancestors, retaining much that is peculiar in physical appearance and in prevailing customs, and cherishing ardent attachment to their native soil, and to the memory of their princes, bards, and warriors. It is not, therefore, surprising that to travellers of almost every diversity of taste and pursuit the principality of Wales presents objects of peculiar and varied interest. It is proposed in this volume to render assistance to those who may be desirous of exploring this country, or of visiting any portion of it ; placing before them a sketch of such routes as will include every jalace of importance, and describing in due order every object to which their attention should be directed. In attempting this, along with the utmost care to give accurate and comprehensive intelligence, there will be a uniform aim at perspicuity and conciseness, and a studious avoidance of overwrought description and needless or burden- some details ; in other words, the endeavour will be to con- vey the greatest possible amount of information in the smallest possible space, and in a form best adapted to the use of the traveller. Approaching from England or Scotland, the to'mis of Chester and Shrewsbury, Hereford, Monmouth, and Chepstow, may be conveniently chosen as starting-places. Accordingly, these towns, although on the English side of the border, will be briefly noticed, and from these in succession a number of routes will be so arranged as to traverse the princii^ality in every direction, and include every place deemed worthy ol notice. CHESTER [Hotels. Gros^eno^. Blossoms, Green Dragon ; Hop-Pole ; and Queen, at the Station.] Refreshment-room at Station. The tourist will find a day or two well occupied in ob- serving the objects of interest in and around this city. It is situated on the ele- vated bank of the river Dee, by which it is bounded on the south and west. The Romans are believed to have been its founders ; and although there is no direct historical evidence of this, it is rendered highly probable by the well- G , CHESTER. ascertained fact, that its site was selected by the Romans as one of their chief military stations, and by the peculiar form of its construction, the four princijial streets extending from a common centre at the cross by St. Peter's Church, towards four gates at the cardinal points of the compass— namely, East- gate, Northgate, Watergate (west), and Bridgegate (south). It was called by the Romans Castram Legionis, the camp or fort of the legion ; Deva, and DeunavM, from the river Dee ; and afterwards Cestn'a, from Castrum. The old British name was Cae?- Lleon Faur-ar-Dufrdivy — i.e. the camp of the great legion on the Dee. Many remains of Roman antiquity have at different times been discovered, such as altars, urns, lamps, statues, weapons, coins, pieces of pavement and pottery, and particularly a por- tion of a hypocaust, or sudatorium, which is still to be seen at an Inn in Bridge Street. The only remaining part of the structure consists of a number of low pUlars supporting square tiles which are perforated for the passage of vaj^our. After the departure of the Romans in the 5th century, this place was under the government of the British princes. In the 9th century it was wrested from their power, and annexed to the Saxon crown ; and soon afterwards it was seized and nearly demolished by the Danes. The city having been restored, William, the Norman Conqueror, created his nephew Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, and granted to him jurisdiction in this county, by virtue of which he convened a parliament, consist- ing of barons and their chief tenants, who were not bound by the acts of the English parliament. Hugh Lupus repaired the walls of the town, and erected the castle ; the more ancient fortifications either having fallen into decay, or being thought insufficient. In several reigns subsequent to the Norman Conquest, Ches- ter was made a place of rendezvous for the forces in expeditions against Wales, and frequently suffered much damage in the contests between the two nations. Upon the death of John, Earl of Chester, in 1237, Henry III. took the Earldom, with all the powers annexed to it, into his own hands, and soon afterwards he granted to the city its first royal charter. The title of Earl of Chester, given by Henry to his eldest son, has since been commonly conferred, along with that of Prince of Wales, on the eldest sons of the sovereigns of Great Britain. CHESTER. 7 It Tvas at Chester that Edward of Carnarvon received the submission of the Welsh in 1309. Henry VII. constituted the city a corporation and county of itself ; and Henry VIII. gave it the privilege of sending representatives to parlia- ment. In the civil wars of Charles I., the city, having adhered with zeal and firmness to the royal cause, was besieged and taken by the Parliamentary forces in 1645. Nothing very remarkable appears in the modern history of Chester, nor has it advanced in population or prosperity viith. the rapidity observable in many other towns of similar extent. It has no extensive manufactures, and as the naviga- tion of the river Dee, notwithstanding the formation at great expense of a new channel, is attended with difficulties, the busines of the port is inconsiderable. Its internal trade, however, is good, its markets and fairs are well attended, and it is an important mart for the cottons of Lancashii-e, the wooUens of Yorkshire and North "Wales, Irish linens, and the cheese and salt which are the productions of its own county. Chester sends two representatives to parliament. Population in 1871, 35,701. With regard to the interesting objects which here claim the attention of the tourist, little more can be done than to indicate some of the most important and peculiar. The Wall completely surroimds the city, and affords a very agreeable walk of nearly two miles. In the circuit a good op- portunity is enjoyed, both for viewing the neighbouring country to a considerable distance in every direction, and for observing the peculiar construction and antiquated architecture of the city, which, as a specimen of an ancient walled city, is un- doubtedly the most remarkable and the best preserved in the kingdom. From a circular tower, which will be noticed at an angle of the wall, called the Phoenix; Tower, Charles I. beheld the trimnph of the Parliamentary forces in the neighbouring plain, as recorded in this inscription — KING CHARLES STOOD ON THIS TOWER SEPTR. 24, 1645, AND SAW HIS ARMY DEFEATED ON ROWTON MOOR. Another tower, called the Water Tower, is appropriated for 8 CHESTER. the museum of the Mechanics' Institution, and in a smaller one a Camera is exhibited. The Cathedral, though a venerable structure, has little external beauty, and, owing to the quality of the red sand- stone of which it is constructed, it has a ragged mouldering ajipearance. It occupies the site of the ancient Saxon monas- tery of St. Werburgh, founded about the year 660. Of the present building the principal parts were built in the reigns of Henry VI., VII., and VIII. It has a neat choir, with ele- gant carving (restored), an altar-screen of much beauty, and a number of stained windows of admirable design and execu- tion. The Lady Chapel has been beautifully restored. Of the Churches in Chester, the following are deserving of notice : — St. John's, a fine old Saxon edifice, which in the 10th century was the cathedral of the diocese, and has re- cently been very well restored ; St. Mary's, having a remark- able roof and some curious monuments ; and Trinity Church, the burial-place of the poet Parnell, and of Matthew Henry, the eminent nonconformist commentator. The latter has recently been rebuilt. The Castle has been a stately noble structure, of which, however, little remains excepting a tower bearing the name of Julius Agricola. A spacious modem edifice has been substi- tuted, designed for the use of the military, and the purposes of the county. It includes extensive and commodious Barracks ; an Armoury, capable of containing 40,000 stand of arms besides 100 pieces of ordnance, and nearly this number are commonly kept, beautifully arranged and in perfect condition ; the Shire- liall, entered through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, each consisting of a single stone 3 feet in diameter and more than 20 feet in height ; the Court-room, a spacious semi- circular hall, well lighted from above ; and the County Gaol, with adequate provision for the due classification of the prison- ers. The external front view of this large and classical build- ing is deservedly admired, and in the convenient arrangements of the interior, it is not surpassed by any edifice for similar purposes in the kingdom. The Rows are the most distinguishing peculiarity of Ches- ter. The carriage-way of the principal streets is sunk, by ex- cavation, several feet below the original level of the ground, and on each side of it are ranges of shops and warehouses. CHESTER. Upon the roofs of these buildings walking-ways are formed of convenient breadth, along which are other shops, including many of the largest and most attractive in the city ; and above, forming a covering to these walks, are the upper apartments of PALACE OF THE STANLEYS OF ALDERLEY. the dwellings. Thus, in front of the houses, there are continued lines of covered gallery or portico, which form a sheltered pro- menade, raised the height of a storey above the roadway, but on a level with the gardens or court-yards behind. An inconve- nience attending this mode of building is the necessity of de- scending and ascending steps at the intersection of every cross- street. "While perambulating these rows, the visitor will observe 10 CHESTER EATON HALL. in various parts of the city, especially in Watergate Street, Bridge Street, and Northgate Street, a number of remarkable old timber buildings, with elaborately-carved gables, some of which are in excellent preser'S'ation. The tourist may recollect the facetious description of the rows given in Chrhtofhtr Tadpole : — " The passenger's footway lies right through the first-floor fronts of the houses — which are cleared away alto- gether, and above the shop, of ordinary normal position, by the road-side ; and thus, the back drawing-rooms, or whatever else they may be, are turned into more shops ; and great is the jiuzzle of the stranger as to whether the roadway is down in the cellar, or he is up stairs on the landing, or the house has turned itself out of window ; affording a literal proof of that curious state of domestic affairs so often spoken of. And first he fancies the ' row' — as it is termed — is like the Quadrant, with the road excavated a floor lower, and shops made under the pavement ; and then it reminds him of a Thames-side tavern, with all the shutter wainscots, that divide the large convivial room into so many little philandering ones, drawn away, and the windows knocked out." , The tourist should not fail to observe the Bridges across the Dee ; the JVeiv or Grosvenor Bridge, a noble stone structure of a single arch, 200 feet in span, with a ro^-dway 33 feet in width and 340 feet in length, opened in 1832 by Her Majesty, then Princess Victoria ; and the Old Bridge, of seven arches, narrow and inconvenient, yet picturesque and harmonising well with the antiquated aspect of the city ; also, the Roodee, a level pas- ture tract of about 80 acres at the base of the city walls, appro- priated as a race-course, for which it is, admirably adapted, forming, as it does, a spacious amphitheatre overlooked from the high grounds surrounding it. The New Grosvenor Park, presented (1867) to the city by the Marquis of Westminster, is well worthy of a visit. The entrance is not far from the station. EATON HALL. [Generally open to the public during the months of May, June, July, and August.2 Before leaviiig Chester a visit should be paid to this princely mansion of the Marquis of Westminster, distant about 3| CHESTER EATON HALL. H miles to the south of Chester. Tickets of admission may commouly be obtained from the principal booksellers, a small payment being required, the proceeds of which are applied to local charities. The Hall may be approached by boats on tlie river Dee, but most tourists will prefer a drive through the Park, enter- ing at Grosvenor Lodge, which has been justly termed an " exquisite gem of Gothic architecture." It is after the model of St. Augustine's gate at Canterbury^ and was erected in 1838 at a cost of £10,000. The park is extensive and well wooded, but it may be thought too uniformly level for the gratification of some tastes. The mansion, erected from de- signs by Porden, on the site of the old hall which was built by Sir John Vanburgh, is considered the most splendid modern specimen of pointed Gothic architecture. The visitor may spend hours in admiring the magnificent structure and the rare works of art, and in exploring the gardens and plea- sure grounds, lately remodelled ; among the many ornaments of which are a Gothic temple, built for the reception of a Eoman altar discovered near Chester, and the Mosaic pavement brought from the palace of the Emperor Tiberius. For further information regarding this locality, see Cath- erall's Guide to Chester. KAILWAYS AT CHESTER. [Hotel: Refreshment-room at Station.] Chester is a central terminus of the following important railways, by means of which it has easy and exj)editious com- munication with all parts of the United Kingdom : The London AND North- Western, by which exj^ress trains arrive from London in 4 h. 30 m., and from Birmingham in 2 h. -18 m.; the Birkenhead and Chester, communicating with Liver- pool by a ferry across the river Mersey ; the Lancashire AND Cheshire Junction, forming a direct communication with Manchester, Leeds, Hull, etc.; the Great Western Railway, penetrating Shropshire, and thence having a second line of connection with Birmingham, Bristol, and London ; and the Chester and Holyhead, connected with powerful steam- packets which cross the Irish Channel to Dublin. 12 CHESTEK TO MOLD. The General Railway Station is extensive and com- modious, and in every respect adapted to its purpose. It waa designed by Mr. Thompson of London, who planned the Derby station. Its principal front is 1010 feet long, built of dark fire-bricks, relieved with stone facings and dressings ; and it comprises all the requisite apartments for the business of the several companies, and for the convenience of passengers. Tlie wings are formed by projecting arcades, with iron roofs, and are appropriated to private and public vehicles attending the arrival and departure of trains. On the inner side of the office-buildings is the platform used for the trains about to depart, 740 feet long by 20 feet wide. This, and three lines of rails, are covered by an iron roof 60 feet in span, the height of the walls on which it rests being 24 feet. There are like- wise similar covered platforms and rails for arrival trains. The goods-station, the warehouses, the sheds for spare carriages and engines, and all the other required buildings, are, in like manner, spacious and well arranged ; and the entire structure presents an appearance of equal solidity and elegance. The total cost is stated to have exceeded ^220,000. CHESTER TO MOLD. Branch line (L. and N. W.) vid Broughton Hall, Hope, Padeswood, and Long (45 minutes). About 2 miles to the right of Hope Station is the vil- lage of that name. Of the castle which stood here, little is known, and the fragments afford no clue to its origin or history. Like its neighbour, it claims the honour of having lodged Queen Eleanor. Whether to both, or if not, to which of the two that honour really attaches, it seems impossible to detemiine. From the royal visit, this village acquired the api3ellation Queen's Hope. In a charter dated 1351, Caergwrle is comprehended under the name of Hope. In the church, a mural monument commemorates Sir John Trevor, who obtained distinction in the service of Queen Elizabeth. Near it is Caerg^urJc, which, though now an insignificant village, was formerly a place of some importance. It apj)ears to have been a Roman station, probably an outpost to Deva, or Chester. Camden discovered here a hypocaust, on some of the tiles of which were inscribed the letters Legio xx., which seem MOLD. 1 3 to indicate the founders. With this accords the ohl name Caer- gawr-lleng — i.e. the city or fort of the great legion, gawr-lleng, by which term the Britons distinguished the 20th legion, known to have been long stationed at Chester and its vicinity. Eelics of Roman smelting- works, and vestiges of two Roman roads, are found here. The Church is a mile from the village. The Castle stood on the summit of a high rock, its construction indicating a British origin. In the time of Owen Gwynedd it was possessed by a chieftain named Gryifydd Maelor ; and at a later period it was held by David, the brother of Llewelyn. After a fortnight's siege it surrendered to Edward I., who bestowed it on his consort. Queen Eleanor. She rested here in her memorable journey to Carnarvon, performed on horseback, shortly before giving birth to the first English Prince of Wales ; and at about that period it was casually set on fire, and the interior was consumed. It was afterwards re- stored, but again became a ruin before the time of Henry VIII. The remains consist of a mutilated circular tower and some fragments of walls. Within short distances are two mansions, both erected about the year 1610, and both attributed to Inigo Jones — viz. Bryn Yorkln, the paternal seat of Ellis Yonge, Esq., a descendant of Tudor Trevor ; and Plus Teg, the j^roperty and residence of C. B. Trevor Roper, Esq. On the left of Long Station is Lees- wood Hall (J. W. Eyton, Esq.) MOLD, [Hotels : Black Lion ; Royal Oak.] formerly written Mould, and in Welsh named Tr WyddgrUg, i'.e. a conspicuous burrow or mound, and hence also Mons Alius, a lofty mount, is a town agreeably situated in a fertile valley, near the river Alyn. The neighbourhood abou.nds with mineral wealth, especially lead ore. The mining and smelting works are in a flourishing condition, and give employment to a large number of laboiu-ers. Hence the whole district has become populous. The inhabitants of the township of Mold (with which the parliamentary burgh is co-extensive) amount to 3735, and those of the entu'e parish to 1 2,2 1 6. The assizes for Flint- shire are held here, a commodious county-hall havijig been 14 MOLU. lately erected. Having railway connection with Chester, and thence with all parts of the kingdom, the 2:)rosperity of the town has received a new impulse. Two weekly markets on Wednes- day and Saturday, and four annual fairs, are well attended. Two market-halls have been recently completed at an exj^ense of £4000. Mold is one of the boroughs in the Flint district contributing to the election of one M.P. Numerous tumuli are seen in the neighbourhood. In 1833 a skeleton was dis- covered, having on the breast a corslet of gold, richly orna- mented, weighing 17 ounces, and valued at £70, which was purchased by the trustees of the British Museum. The Church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is of the Gothic architecture of the 15th century. We find it noticed as early as the time of Henry VII. Near the north door is a flat stone, covering the grave of Wils(jn, the eminent landscape-painter, bearing the following simple inscription : — " The remains of Richard Wil- son, Esquire, member of the Royal Academy of Artists. In- terred May 15, 1782, aged 69." In the aisle is a superb mo- nument to R. Davies, Esq. of Llanerch, the distinguished anti- quary. Here also is an epitaph to Dr. Wynne of the Tower, near ]\Iold, comi^osed by himself, the conclusion of which is " God be merciful to me a sinner, Heh Dduu\ heh ddim" — i.e. without God, without everything. Dissenting chapels are nu- merous, at all of which there are Sunday-schools. Two school- houses, with residences for the master and mistress, have been built at a cost of £4000, and there are two endowed schools in the parish, one in the town of Mold, and the other at Nerquis. At the northern extremity of the town there is an eminence, called Bailey Hill, j^artly natural and partly artificial, upon which formerly stood a British fortification. Bailey is pro- bably a corruption of hallia, the architectural term used for the two courts, outer and inner, of a fortified castle. Mold Castle appears to have been founded in the reign of William Rufus, by Robert Monthault, who from this place received his name of Monthault, or De Monte Alto. In the reign of Henry I. this fort was among the possessions of the high steward of Chester. In 1145, after repeated assaults, it was taken and destroyed by Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales. The English having recovered it, it was again, in 1201, wrested from them by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth. Subsequently it was more than once the scene of conflict, and now not a vestige of this MAES-Y-GARMON TOWER. I 5 ancient Lorder fortress is to be discovered. Upon this site, in June 1849, the remains of fifteen human skeletons were dis- covered, supposed to have been those of soldiers slain in battle in the 13th century. Maes-y-Garmon, or the Field of Germanus, is aboiit one mile W. from Mold. It is celebrated for the decisive victory obtained here ia 448, over the combined Picts and Scots, by the native Christian converts, of whom thousands had just previously been baptized. The Christian army was led by the two missionary bishops, Germanus and Lupus, the former of whom had the chief command. Before the commencement of the action he ordered his followers to shout after him the word Alleluia. As the hostile force approached, he uttered, the word, it was thrice repeated by the attending priests, and then quickly caught up by all the soldiers, and re-echoed by the hills around. The triumphant shout so dismayed and terrified the pagan enemies, that they fled precipitately ; and being pursued by the Britons, were nearly all destroyed, great num- bers falling by the sword, and others perishing in the river. This victory has been commonly denominated by historians Victoria Alleluiatica ; and in commemoration of the event, an obelisk was erected on the spot in 1736, by N. Griffith, Esq. of Rhual. Some antiquaries express a doubt as to the locality of this remarkable event. Tower. — Rather more than a mile S. from Mold, on the right of the road to Nerquis, is a venerable yet desolate-looking mansion, apparently of the time of Queen Anne, attached to which is a tall, square tower, machicolated and embattled, of more ancient date, probably the earlier portion of the 15th century. Though somewhat incongruous, it is a good specimen of the border houses of Wales and Scotland. During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, this tower was the abode of Reinallt ap Gryflfydd ap Bleddyn, a cliief of royal descent, who maintained a long feud with the citizens of Chester. Li a bloody fray at Mold fair in 1475, he seized the Mayor of Chester, couv eyed him to Tower, and hung him to a staple in the hall, which stiU remains. Two hundred exaspe- rated citizens soon afterwards left Chester, in order to seize Reiaallt, and avenge their loss ; but, aj^prized of their design, the wUy and cruel Welshman retu-ed to a neighbouring wood, and having permitted them to enter his mansion, he suddenly 16 CILCAIN — MOEL FAilMAU MOEL ARTHUR. rushed from his conceahnent, and fastened the door ; and then, setting fire to the building, he caused many of the citizens to be burned to deatli, and such as escaped from the conflagration 5ur\T^ved only to perish by the sword of their persecutor. Tower belongs to J. Wynn Eyton, Esq. of Leeswood. CiLCiUN is a village, about 4 miles from Mold, worthy of a visit on account of the magnificent carved oak roof of its church, brought, at the dissolution of the monasteries, from Basingwerk Abbey, of which it had been the greatest orna- ment. Between Mold and Cilcain the river Alyn has a sub- terranean course for about half-a-mile. MoEL Fammau, or the Mother of Hills, is the loftiest of the Clwyddian range, full in view on the road to Rutliin. It is 1845 feet above the sea. On the summit, at a sjDot where two counties and four parishes meet, " the Jubilee Column " was erected by public subscription in 1810, to commemorate the 50th year of tlie reign of George III. It is a rough stone pillar, of pyramidal form, 60 feet in diameter at the base, and 150 feet in height; but a considerable portion was blown do^v^l during a storm in 1862, and has not since been re- stored. From this elevated spot the view is extensive and beautiful, and includes the mountains of Merioneth and Car- narvonshire, the Isle of Man, Black Comb in Cumberland, the high ground of Derby and Stafford, the Wrekin and fer- tile plain of Salop, the whole of the Vale of Clwyd, and the chain of British forts on the adjacent heights. The prospect will amply repay the trifling exertion demanded by the easy ascent. MoEL Arthur is another of the same range of hills, a little more to the north. On its summit are the remains of a very strong British fort, with two deep ditches, and suitable valla on the accessible sides. This is one of the posts pro- vided by the Ordovices as a defence against Roman incur- sions. The sites of seven, which formed a complete chain of fortified encampments, may be traced along the line of hills whicli bound the counties of Flint and Denbigh. CHESTER AND HOLYHEAD RAILWAY. 1 7 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. The Chester and Holyhead Railway, which now forms a portion of the London and North-Western system, in its en- gineering works is the most enterprising, and as to the scenery in its course, one of the most picturesque in the kingdom, and must also be esteemed of the greatest national importance, especi- ally on account of its forming an essential link of connection between the integral parts of the empire, and the principal high- way between the metropolitan cities of England and Ireland. The project was announced so long ago as the year 1836 ; in 1839 its promoters succeeded in forming a company ; but, encountering many difficulties and much strenuous opposition, the act of incorporation was not obtained until 1844. Th-i works were commenced in 1845, the line was partially opened in 1 848, but, o\Wng to the novel and extremely arduous charac- ter of some portions, the whole was not completed until 1850. The total length of the main line, together with the branches to Mold and Carnarvon, is 107 miles. The line commences at the general station at Chester, and passes under a portion of that city by a tunnel 300 yards long. After crossing the Dee, it continues its course nearly parallel with the embanked channel of that river, and along its estuary to the to'wn of Flint. Skirting the most northern part of the Welsh coast, it passes by Rhyl and Abergele, and through a narrow valley to the south of Orme's Head ; and then crosses the estuarj^ of the river Conway by an iron tubular bridge, of which some description will be presently given. At the town of Conway the line is formed close to the venerable ruins of the castle, andbeneath one of the towers of the ancient walls ; beyond which it rounds the headlands of Penmaen-bach and Penmaen-mawr, crosses the valiey and river of Ogwen by a viaduct 246 yards in length, and passing Bangor, is carried over the Menai Strait by another great tubular bridge, resting in mid-channel upon the Britannia rock, a little to the west of Telford's suspension bridge. The railAvay then crosses Anglesey, near to the S.W. coast of the island, and terminates at Holyhead, being in di- rect connection with the steam-packets, which leave the harbour daily for Kingstown and Dublin. An Itinerary and a Chart of the whole course are furnished. and a more detailed account will afterwards be given of all the places near the line. C N 18 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAt). CHESTER AND HOLYHEAD RAILWAY. Stations on j\Iain Line and Branches. Chester. Queen's Ferry. Flint. Bagillt. Holywell. Mostyn. Prestatyn. Rhyl. Vale of Clwyd, Denbigh, Rutliin, and Corwen. St. Asaph. Denbigh. Llanrhaiadr. I Rhewl. I Ruthin. Corwen. Abergele. Llandulas. Colw}"!!. Llandudno Junction. Llandudno Junction. Glan Conway. || ^ Tal-y-Cafn. Kl"^ I Llanrwst. t Bettws-y-coed. Llandudno Junction. Deganway. Llandudno. Llandudno Junction. Conway. Penmaenmawr. Llanfairfechan. Aber. Bangor. g C Bangor (for Carnarvon. § . 1 Menai Bridge. || -! Treborth. 3*^ 1 Port Dinorwic. ^ Griffith's Crossing. I. Carnarvon. Bangor (for Holyhead.) Menai Bridge. Llanfair. Gaerwen. 1^ r Llangefni. •|,-3 •< Llanerchymedd. ^ o ( Amlwch. Bodorgan. Ty Croes. Valley. Holyhead. Kingstown. Dublin. Hefreshment-rooms at Crewe, Chester, Llandudno Junction, and Holyhead. TABULAR ITINERARY. ON RIGHT S-^ FROM CHESTER. £-3 2 CHESTER STATION. Tunnel, 300 yds. <^ or. Ellesmere Canal. or. the city wall, at its west angle. Embankment over the Tower Field. Viaduct of 47 arches. j^^Sg cr. the river Dec. ON LEFT FROM CHESTER. Docks of the Great Western Railway Company. 84i Roodee, the Chester race-coiuse. CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. ON BIGHT FROM CHESTER. Enter Flintshire. The Railway is here for several miles parallel witli the river. 3 OK LEFT FROM CHESTER. The exteni?ive tract of land on the opposite side of the Dee is called Sealand, hav- ing been enclosed from the sea, by the River Dee Company, incorporated by Act of Parliament in 1732. 83^ 1 The mountains above the Vale of CUvyd are seen at a distance. The highest, Moel Fammau, has on its summit a column erected by subscrip- tion to comnieniorate the fiftieth year of the reign of George III. Sandycroft Quay. Buckley, having a large population employed iu culUenes, &c. Mold branch railway. Lent;Ui trom Chester to Denbigh, 29i m. Hawarden, town and castle, 2 m. 77J Queen's Ferry Station. 7 Aston Hall. Wepre Hall. Docks of 'Wrexham, Mold, and Cunnah's Quay Railway Com- Ewloe Castle ruins. St. Mark's Church, in the parish of N orthop. pany. On leaving the tunnel a full view is obtained of the estuary of the Dee, and of the penin- sula of Wirral, situat- ed between the Dee and the Mersey. Deep cuttings, and a short Tunnel. Kelsterton, Edward Bate, Esq. Kelsterton Brewery. Fron, —White, Esq. Oaken Holt, James Williams, Esq. Leadbrook. Halkin mountain, a rich mineral tract. Halkin Castle, Mar- quis of Westminster. Parkgate, on the Clie- shire coast, to which there is a Ferry from Flint. 72 70 FLINT Station. Bagillt Station. 12i Northop, 3 m. Coraist. Bryn Dychwelwch, or hill of retreat. Ruins of Basingwerk Alibey. Zinc works. Greenfield Wharf. 67| HOLTWELL Station. 161 Pajier mills. GreenHuld Hall. LlancK'li-y-mor, Adam Eytoii, Esq. Downing, Earl of Denbigh. ^\niitford, verypopn- loua. 20 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. ON RIGHT il il ON LEFT FROM CHESTER. ^1 Mostyn Station. II 20 FROM CHESTER. .Mostyn Quay. dih MostjTi Hall, Lord ,Nine hundred acres Mostyn. of laud euclosed from or. Gwespyr Marsh. Gwespyr village and the sea, in 1811, by quarries. the late Sir Edward Llanasa, or Llanasaph , Mostyn. Gym Castel. HiUbre island, in the estuary of the Dee, near the extremity of Talacre, Sir Pyers Mostyn, Bart. the peninsula of Wir- ral in Cheshire. 1 Point of Air Light- house. Life-boat house. Gronant Moor. Gronant village. Golden Grove, Mrs. Morgan. 5SJ Prestatyn Station. 26i Meliden village. Talargoch lead mines. Dyserth Castle ruins. Bodryddan, William Shipley Conway, Esq. 54J RHYL Station. .^^ cr. the estuary at the efflux of the united 30 Branch rail to Rhud- dlan, St. Asaph, Den- bigh, Ruthin, and Corwen. rivers Clwyd and Ehvy. Enter Denbighshire. 50i ABERGELE Station. 34i GwTj'ch Castle, Kobt. 47 Llandulas Station. Hesketh, Esq. Bronwendon, R. W. Wynne, Esq. Penmaen Rhos Tunnel, 1629 ft. in length, through hard limestone rock. Tan-yr-aUt. 44i Colwyn Station. 40i "■Llanelian village, celebrated for its Llandrillo-yn-rh6s. "cursing well," called Gloddaeth. F/ynnon Elian. Great Onne's Head. Mochdre. Pwll-y-crochan Hotel Llangwstenyn Ch. 41i LLANDUDNO June. 43J Bryneisteddfa, Arch- Pabo. deacon Jones. Branch rail to Llan- 40 Guflfyn. dudno Through TUBULAR BRIDGE cr. the river Conway. Branch raU to Bet- tws-y-coed. 39i CONWAY Station. 45i Suspension Bridge. Tunnel under one of the towers of the ancient wall,!! 2yds., and thence through deep cuttings to Guflyn village and ancient church. CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 21 ON RIGHT FROM CHESTER. See Puffin Islaud.near the eastern extremity of Anglesey. See Beaumaris, on the Anglesey coast. Penrhyn Castle and Park, Lord Penrhyn. Port Penrhyn. Menai Suspension Bridge. Column in honour of the Marquis of Anglesey. Berw Colliery. Conway Marsh. i5541 cr. turnpike road. Penmaen-bach Tunnel, G30 yds., through flinty rock. Over Dwygyfylchi Plain. Penmaen-mawr Station. Penmaen-mawrTunnel, 220 yds. Llanfair-fechan Station. Aber Station. Viaduct over the Og wen river and valley. Llandegai Tunnel, 440 yds. Viaduct over the river Cegid. BangorTunnel, 1000 yd. BANGOR Station. Belmont Tunnel, 726 yds., having 4 shafts. MENAI Bridge Station. TUBULAR BRIDGE, through which cross the Menai Strait, and enter Anglesey. Llanfair Station. The railway is here for several miles parallel with the turnpike road. Gaerwen Station, Malltraeth, a sandy and marshy tract of great extent. Viaduct of 90 arches over the tidal river Cefni. Trefdraeth Tunnel, 560 yards. ON LEFT FROM CHESTER. Pen Dyffryn, S. D. Darbishire, Esq. m 66J Llandegai village. Branch Railway to Carnarvon. Bangor to Port Din- orwio, 4J m. Bangor to Carnarvon, 8|m. Plas Newydd, Lady Willoughby-de- Broke. Llangaffo village, with a modem church, having a graceful spire. About 2J ra distant are the remains of Newborough, or Rhos Faer, formerly a place of much importance. Bodowen, the vener- able mansion of the Owen family, 2J m. 22 CHESTER TO HOLTHEAD. ON RIGHT il 22 ON LEFT FROM CHESTER. "^a Bodorgan Station r2i FROM CHBSTER. 12 Bodorgan (with beau- tiful gardens, justly celebrated), 0. F. A. P. Meyrick, Esq., 1 m_ Llyn Coron, a lake, 2 m. in circumference, abounding witli lish. 9 Ty Croes Station. 75i Aberflfraw. Llanfaelog. 3^ Valley Station. 81 Cymmeran Bay. Penrh6s Park, Hon. The railway and the turnpike road are in paral- lel lines along the Stanley Embankment. W. 0. Stanley, M.r. HOLYHEAD. Sii DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE— CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. The county of FliutsLire, wliicli we enter immediately on leaving Chester, although the smallest in Wales, ranks high in importance, on account of its historic relations, its an- tiquarian remains, and especially its mineral productions. It is so intersected by Denbighshire as to insulate a portion, measuring about 10 miles by 5, called the Hundred of Maelor (by the Welsh, Maelor Saesneg). The inhabitants may be regarded as a mixed peojjle, many of them having immigrated from England. This county has been the scene of some of the most memorable events in the history of Wales ; as the decisive victory obtaiiied by the native British Christians over the Pagan Picts and Scots at Maes-y-Garmon, near Mold, in the year 448, vk^ell known as the Hallelujah victory ; — the mas- sacre by Saxon invaders, in the 7th century, of 1200 Chris- tian monks belonging to the monastery of Bangor Iscoed, and the Bubsequent slaughter of the cruel perpetrators by the aroused and vengeful Welsh p)rinces ; — the incursions of Ofl'a, King of Mercia, and the erection by him of the rampart or dyke which bears his name ; — the dreadful battle on Rhudd- HAWARDEN. 2? Ian Marsli, in 795, in which the brave Caradoc nobly fell in defence of his country, and which gave origin to the popular and exquisitely plaintive air ^^ Morfa Rhiuldlan ;" — the valorous exploits of the patriot Owen Gwynedd in the time of Henry II. of England, and the no less illustrious deeds of Prince Llewelyn in the days of Edward I. Flintshire is indebted for the employment of its popula- tion, and for a large measiire of prosperity and wealth, to its productive mines of lead, calamine, coal, limestone, etc. On the S.W., stretching from Mold to Dyserth, is an extensive tract of mountain limestone, some of which is capable of receiving a high polish. To the E. of this tract is a rich coal- field, of great depth, extending through the entire length of the county, and penetrating the adjoining county of Denbigh. The limestone and coal tracts abound likewise with iron-ore. The lead-mines, which are found chiefly in the N.E., are the most extensive in Britain. The Flintshire smelters manufac- ture annually more than one-fourth of the lead produced in the kingdom. Another valuable product is calamine, an ore of zinc, much of which is used by brassfounders in the neigh- bourhood, and large quantities are exported. Silver also is obtained to a valuable extent. The rivers in Flintshire are the Dee, the Clwyd, the Alyn, the Wheeler, and the Elwy ; but several of these more pro- perly belong to other counties. Population (1871), 76,245. Parliamentary representa- tives — one for the county, and one for the boroughs. Between Chester and Queensberry we pass 2 ndles to the north of HAWARDEN [Hotels: Glynne Arms ; Nag's Head.] (pronounced Harden), a small town, consisting of little more than one street, half-a-mile in length, pleasantly situated on an eminence. It is of great antiquity, and the remains of fortified posts around it serve to remind that it has been the scene of conflict, and bravely defended against hostile attack. Its early British name was Pen-y-Llwch (corrupted to Pennard- halawg) — i. e. the head of the swamj} or lake ; which accords with the tradition that the adjacent low land was formerly 24 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. under water. lu the record of tlie Norman survey the name is written " Haordin." The parish is extensive, including a population (1861) of 7044 ; and the rectory, in the gift of Sir Stephen R. Glynne, is of great value, said to exceed ^4000 per annum. Collieries, potteries, and iron- works, furnish employment for the people. Alderman Boydell, once Lord Mayor of London, a distin- guished patron of the fine arts, was born in this parish. It gives the title of Viscount to the family of Maude. Hawarden Castle is a handsome modern mansion, the seat of Sir Stephen Richard Glynne, Bart, Lord-Lieutenant of the county. It was erected in 1752, and in 1,809 it under- went such alterations as to give it the character of a castel- lated Gothic edifice of the 13th century. The park is exten- sive, and pleasingly diversified ; and within its inclosure are the ruins of a Castle of very ancient date, and for a long time of great importance. It appears to have been built by the Britons, but at the time of the Norman Conquest it was a stronghold of the Saxons. William I. included it in the grant which he made to his nephew, Hugh Lupus, for whose suc- cessors in the Earldom of Chester it was held subordinately by the Barons of Montalt, until it was resumed by the Crown, along with the title of Earl of Chester. Henry VI. conferred the castle upon Sir Thomas Stanley, whose descendants retained the possession until a.d. 1651, when James, Earl of Derby, being taken prisoner at the battle of Worcester, and beheaded, his estates were sequestered. It was obtained at a nominal price by Serjeant Glynne, who was then in high favour with Cromwell, and subsequently appointed by him Lord Chief-Justice, yet, after the Restoration, was knighted by- Charles II. With liis descendants the estate still remains. Of the ancient castle little moi-e is now to be seen than the keep, and fragments of the towers. By the removal of vast quantities of rubbish, the fouudations have been so far exposed as to exhibit the original pentagonal form of the structure. At one angle was the keep, a lofty circular tower, which, being still nearly entire, and occupying an elevated site, forms a picturesque object from the surrounding country, and affords from its summit an extensive view of the Denbigh- shire mountains, the Vale-Royal of Cheshire, and the estuariea of the Dee and the Mersey. FLIN'i'. 25 Buckley Mountain is a district of the parish of Hawarden, having a large and busy population, employed chiefly in the manufacture of coarse earthen\yare, draining-tiles, and fire- bricks. From the superior quality of the clay, the fire-bricks made here are in high repute throughout the kingdom, and great numbers are consequently exported. EwLOE Castle, about 2 miles from Hawarden, is situated in a thickly-wooded dingle, not easily found. It is an inter- esting ruin, finely mantled with ivy ; but little is known with certainty as to its founder or history. In the adjacent woods, called Coed Ewloe, the advanced guard of the English army under Henry H. was surprised and defeated by David and Conan, sons of the heroic prince Owen Gwynedd, in the year 1157. By stratagem they drew the English into the defile, and then, attacking them suddenly in front and rear, van- quished them with dreadful slaughter. The little stream which flows through Coed Ewloe is called Wepre Brook. In its short course it passes Wepre Hall, an ancient mansion, the property of W. Freme, Esq. FLINT. [Hotels: Royal Oak and Railway ; Ship.] Although this is the county town, it has rather the appear- ance of a neglected, decaying village. The appellation is Saxon, but its origin is not ascertained. The town was evidently formed on the plan of a Roman encampment, rectangular, and sur- rounded by regular entrenchments and ramjjarts, with four for- tified gates. These, however, are nearly obliterated, and the streets are now so broken by dilapidated walls, and partially- removed houses, as to have a ragged and repulsive aspect. The town has sometimes aspired to rank as a bathing-place, but the beach, being marshy, is quite unsuitable. The county assizes, which used to be held here, have been removed to Mold, and the market has been discontinued. The church, a chapel of ease to Northop, having become dilapidated, a more commo- dious and attractive edifice was reared in 1 848. A new Town- hall has also been raised ; the wharfs have been much extended and improved ; and of late years, in consequence of obstructions in the channel of the Dee, Flint has become, to a considerable extent, the port of Chester ; and here the larger vessels, espe- 26 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. cially those with timber, discharge into lighters ; or rafts are formed and floated up the river. Messrs. ]\Iuspratt's chemical works is the principal business, and there are productive collieries in the neighbourhood. Flint is united with other boroughs in the county in electing one member of parliament. Population (1871), 4277. •FLINT Castle is at the N.E. of the town, upon a low rock ♦f freestone, in the midst of a marsh, which at high tides is ander water. The channel of the Dee is now at some distance, but the river formerly flowed close to the castle-wall, in which rings for mooring vessels were, not long ago, visible. There is uncertainty as to the time of its erection. Camden asserts that it was begun by Henry II. and finished by Edward I. Leland, adducing the authority of older writers, ascribes the entire work to the latter monarch. Here Edward II. received his favourite. Piers Gaveston, on his return from banishment in Ireland ; and here the unhappy King Richard II. was de- livered, by the perfidious Percy of Northumberland, into the hands of Boliugbroke. This fortress does not appear to have fallen into the hands of Owen Glyndvvx, when he overran most other parts of the principality. In the civil wars of Charles I. it was garrisoned for the king by Sir Roger Mostyn ; in 1643 it was besieged and taken by the Parliamentary forces ; in 1646 it was dismantled by order of the House of Commons ; and after the Restoration it was resumed by the Crown. A portion of the ground is now occupied by the county gaol. The building was originally a parallelogram, occupying about an acre of ground, with a circular tower at each angle. One of these, detached from the walls, was considerably larger than the other three. It consisted of two concentric walls, each 6 feet thick, having between them a gallery 8 feet broad, and leaving wdthin the smaller circle an area 20 feet in diameter, into which were four entrances. This is called the Double Tower, and probably was the donjon, or keep. The whole is now in a very decayed state, and, being utterly neglected, seems likely soon to disappear. A large portion fell in May 1848. Bagillt is a busy populous village, in the parish of Holy- well, extending about two miles. In consequence of the extensive lead, iron, and alkali works which have been established here, and the collieries which abound iu the HOLYWELL. 27 neighbourhood, the place has risen to great importance. One of the hills above Bagillt is called Bryn Dychwelwch, i.e. the hill of retreat, because here Owen Gwynedd, pursued by Henry II. with superior number's, sounded his retreat. Proceeding westwards, in a little more than 4 miles from Flint we reach the station of HOLYWELL, [Hotels : White Horse ; King's Head ; Red Lion.] or Treffynno7i, the toion of the well, a populous market- town and parliamentary borough, pleasantly situated on a declivity, two miles from the station. The streets are irre- gular, but spacious, well paved, and lighted with gas. Until the commencement of the present century the town was inconsiderable, but owing to the extension of mines, and the successful introduction of several manufacturing concerns, it has become the largest in the county, and its markets supply an extensive and populous district. The grand mining con- cern termed the Holywell Level commenced here in the year 1774, under leases granted to a company by the several landed proprietors through whose estates the veins of lead were supposed to extend. The "venture," which at first proved unsuccessful, eventually became very profitable to all concerned. The closing of some cotton-factories appears to have checked the advancement of the town. The church, erected in 1769, but retaining some columns which belonged to a more ancient fabric, is a plain structure, with a strong embattled tower, dedicated to Gwenfrewi, or St. Winefred. Under the chancel are family vaults of the Mostyns of Talacre, the Pennants of Downing, and the Pantons of Bagillt. Owing to the peculiar situation of the church, its bell is not audible in the principal streets of the town ; in consequence of which a singular method is adopted for announcing the times of public service. A man is employed to go about the town as a walking steeple, or perambulating belfry, bearing a large bell suspended by a strap from his shoulders, and a cushion buckled around one knee. As he steps forward, the cushion strikes against the bell, and thus the people are summoned to the house of prayer. Pojjulation of the borough, 5,335 ; of the parish, 10,292. 23 CHESTER TO HOLTHEAD- As the name of the town, so likewise its main attraction is derived from St. Winefred's Well. In Wales, as in other countries where superstition and ignorance have prevailed, many a place can boast of a well once deemed sacred, and reputed to possess supernatural efficacy in the removal of bodily disease and infirmity ; and even at the present day, when no one in our country looks for miracles, such wells are still regarded by not a few ^vith a degree of reverence and awe. Amongst these, St. Winefred's Well, long reckoned one of the seven wonders of Wales,* has the most widely extended renown. The legend attached to this well is as follows : — About the beginning of the 7th century, Gwenfrewi, or Wine/red, a young female, devout and beautiful, of noble parentage, and related to the distinguished saint Beuno, was beloved by a neighbouring prince, or chieftain, named Caradoc. Having refused his proposals, and lied in order to escajje from his power, the irritated youth pursued her, and drawing his sword> struck off her head, which rolled down the hill towards the chiirch. At the spot where it rested, water immediately gushed forth, which (says one) " flows to this day, and by the holy virgin's merits, gives health to a world of diseased persons." St. Beuno, it is added, advancing from the church, took up the head, and carried it to the body, when the parts instantly reunited, leaving only a slender white line around the neck as a mark of the miraculous restoration. Caradoc, it is averred, immediately fell lifeless, and was never again beheld. Wine- fred survived about 15 years, and having taken the veil at Gwytherin in Denbighshire, she died Abbess of that mon- astery, and was interred there ; four upright stones being still exhibited as marking her tomb. The spring continued to flow, and was fomid to be endowed with miraculous properties ; the moss growing near it was ever afterwards peculiarly fi'ag- * The so-called seven wonders of Wales were St. Winefred's Well, Wrexham Church, Overton Churchyard, Gresford Bells, Llangollen Bridge, PistyU Rhayadr, and Snowdon Mountain. If, however, a selection were now made of the gi'eatest wonders of Wales, some of these would give place to modem works of art connected with canals and railways, such as the Aqueducts and Viaducts near Chirk and Llangollen, the Suspension Bridges of Telford over the River Conway and Menai Strait, and, above all, the Tubular Railway Bridges at the same places. HOLYWELL. 29 rant ; and the stones, wliich were sprinkled with, blood, re- main to this day exhibiting the indelible stain. It may be jsroper so far to deprive these concluding asser- tions of the marvellous, as to state that the sweet-scented moss, growing plentifully here, is nothing more than the Jungermannia asplenoides of Linnseus ; and that the supposed blood-stain on the pebbles is also a vegetable production, the Byssus iolithus of Linnaeus, and Lepraria iolithus of Smith. While some persons still resort to these waters in a super- stitious spirit, many, with more reason, employ them for sana- tory pitrposes ; and crutches, chairs, and other offerings, are suspended as evidence that the desired benefit has been at- tained. We may reject all idea of the sanctity of this well without disputing its salubrity. It is, in fact, a remarkably powerful spring, sending forth a copious stream of very cold and pure water ; and there is no reason to doubt that, here as everywhere, the free use of such water, both for bathing and drinking, may prove beneficial in checking disease and improving health. Mr. Pennant estimated the flow of water at 24 tons in a minute, while the experiments of other persons favour the conclusion that the issue greatly exceeds that quantity. The spring is said to be little affected by either continued droughts or excessive rains ; and the water, varying but little in tem- perature, never freezes. It is received in a basin, or bath, 1 2 feet long, 7 feet wide, and 5 feet deep, and is so clear that the minutest object at the bottom may be easily discerned. The well is covered by a small Gothic building said to have been erected by Margaret, Countess of Eichmond, mother of Henry VII., though ]\Ir. Grose ascribes to portions of it a much earlier date. The walls enclose a sufficient space to allow of a cloistered walk at the sides. The groined roof, supported by stone pillars, has carved representations of the legend of St. Winefred. Above is a chapel, which is now used as a public school. Some accommodation is provided for persons bathing, and there are usually attendants vd\h glasses for those who wish to drink the water. Pope Martin, in the time of Henry V., encouraged pil- grims to frequent this holy spot, furnishing the neighbouring abbey of Basingwerk with pardons and indulgences for the 30 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. devotees who came hither ; and similar privileges were granted during the reign of Queen Mary. James II., who is said to have lost three kingdoms for a mass, visited the sacred well in 1686, and received as a reward a gift of the under garment worn by Mary, Queen of Scots, at the time of her execution. In 1819 the well was visited, as an object of curiosity, by the King of the Belgians, then Prince Leopold, accompanied by Earl Grosvenor and other noblemen ; and in 1828 it was visited by the late Duke of Sussex, The pro- perty belongs to the Marquis of Westminster. Basingwerk Abbey. — This picturesque ruin is only a short distance from the station. A place of such religious celebrity as St. Winefred's Well was not likely to be long without its monastic establishment. Accordingly, we find that a society of monks existed here previous to the year 1119. How long prior to that date we have no means of ascertaining. Neither is it known who was the original founder, although there are reasons for concluding that he was one of the princes of Wales. The Cistercian rule appears to have been introduced about 1131, by Ranulph, the second Earl of Chester, who was a great benefactor of the abbey. The architecture is of the Early English style, and the ma- sonry is substantial and carefully finished, but there are few traces of ornament. The ruins consist of the south wing of the transept (which was 65 feet from north to south) and the south wall of the nave, 80 feet in length and 45 feet broad. The choir was about 30 feet long. On the east side of the cloister-garth are the remains of the door to the sacristy, and of the substructure of the dormitory (75 by 17 feet), with part of the chapter-house and common room. On the south are portions of the refectory, and to the west part of the gate- house. The situation of the abbey is beautiful ; upon an eminence, among rich pastures, near to a stream of pure water, and having a fine view of the Dee, the city of Chester, and the hills of Lancashire. In the neighbourhood formerly stood a strong fort, called Basingwerk Castle, of which, scarcely a vestige can now be dis- covered. Watt's Dyke terminates at the coast close to Basingwerk, This ancient rampart or boundary line is clearly traced hence, OFFa's dyke CAERWTS. 31 through Northop, Hope, Wrexham, and the grounds of Wyxm- stay, to Maesbury, near Oswestry, where it appears to have had its beginning. Of the occasion and date of its construc- tion no authentic information has been obtained. Offa's Dyke, likewise, is at no great distance. By most writers the two are erroneously confounded. This, which was constructed in the 8th century by Ofl'a, King of Mercia, as a line of demarcation, rather than of defence, extended from the vicinity of Newmarket in Flintshire, traversing the counties of Flint, Denbigh, Salop, Kadnor, Hereford, and Monmouth, to Beachley at the mouth of the "Wye. In the first two of these counties, its course is in the same direction as Watt's Dyke, but at unequal distances, the two being in some places only a quarter of a mile apart, and in others more than three miles.* Churchyard, the poet of Queen Elizabeth's days, thus represents the probable purpose of these erections : "There is a famous thing, Cal'de Oifae's Dyke, tliat reacheth farre in length ; All kind of ware the Danes might thether bring. It was free ground, and cal'de the Britaine's strength. Wat's dyke likewise about the same was set, Betweene which two, bothe Danes and Britaines met. And trafficke still ; but passing boundes by sleight, The one did take the other pris'ner streight." Downing Hall, distant from Holywell about 3 miles, in the parish of Whitford, was long the property and residence of the ancient family of Pennant, one of whom, Thomas Pen- nant, Esq., was distinguished as a naturalist and antiquary. The estate descended to his granddaughter, who was married to Viscount Fielding, now Earl of Denbigh. The mansion is a handsome structure, built in the form of a Roman H, and has in front a Welsh inscription, Heb Dduw, heb ddim ; Duw, a ddigon, signifying, }Vithout God, without all ; with God, enough. It contains an extensive library and many valuable works of art. Below the house are the ruins of Malindina Abbey, contributing to the beauty of the scene ; and within view, also, is the ancient Mijnydd y Garrecj, a lofty circular building, believed to have been a Roman Pharos. Caerwys, or the Furt above the Waters, is a small town, backed by the high mountain called Moel-y-parc, situated about midway between Holywell and St. Asaph. It is be- * " The ■Worthines of Wales, a Poem ; by Thomas Churchyard." 32 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. lieved to have been a Roman station, and was lono; dif?- tinguislied by its periodical meetings of the British Bards, termed Eisteddfodau. It has large cattle-fairs, and is one of the Flintshire boroughs electing a M.P. A pleasant walk will condnct to a wooded dingle of great beauty called Maes Mijnan Wo>-t, in which the last native prince, Llewelyn ap Gryffydd is said to have had a palace. A little to the west of Mostyn Station is Mostyn Hall, the property and principal residence of Lord Mostyn, one of the oldest families in North Wales. The park, well wooded and stocked with deer, slopes gradually to the sea. The ap- proach to the mansion is by a magnificent gateway, called Forth Mawr, and a long avenue of venerable forest-trees. The original structure is of the time of Henry VI., but modern repairs and additions have materially altered its general character. The interior is enriched with a large collection of rare armour and antiquities, family portraits and other works of art, and especially books and manuscripts. The valuable library from Gloddaeth, consisting chiefly of old British history and Welsh MSS., has been removed to this , place. Visitors may be gratified by seeing a silver harp, in the possession of the family since 1568 ; a golden torque found at Harlech, formerly worn by princes of Wales ; the pedigree of this time-honoured house, no less than forty-two feet in length ; and the Mostyn testimonial, a silver candelabrum, weighing 1750 ounces, and valued at a thousand guineas, presented to Lord Mostyn in 1843. When Henry, Earl of Richmond, was secretly contriving the overthrow of the Hoxise of York, he was for a time con- cealed here, aiming to secure assistance from the Welsh, who were generally disposed to favour his cause on account of his Cambrian extraction, he being the grandson of Owen Tudor. Richard III., suspecting his visit to Mostyn, despatched a party to apprehend him ; bitt, informed of their approach, Henry had barely time to escape by leaping through a back window, which is to this day called the King's window. Richard ap Howel, then lord of Mostyn, joined Henry at the battle of Bosworth, and after the victory received from the king, in token of gratitude for his preservation, the belt and sword which he wore on that memorable day. Mostyn Quay has of late risen into considerable import- LLANASA PRESTATYN. 33 ance. A remarkably pretty cliurch was erected in 1845, by the two families of Mostyn and Pennant. Hillhre island^ seen at the opposite point of the estuary, contains about ten acres, and is valuable as a convenient telegraph station in con- nection with the port of Liverpool. The Point of Air Light- house, seen over sandhills on the right, was built by the corporation of the Trinity House. It is constructed of iron, resting upon nine strong iron pillars, and although the foun- dation is sandy, the building is deemed perfectly secure. Llaxasa, or Llanasaph, is a small village, situated to the left of the railway. In the church is some beautiful stained glass, brought from Basingwerk Abbey, and in the churchyard are some curious tombstones. In this parish are several gentlemen's seats deserving of mention : Ti lacre, the elegant modern mansion of Sir Pyers Mostyn, Bart. ; Gym, a castel- lated edifice, built by the late John Douglas, Esq , from the lofty towers of which the view is very extensive ; and Golden Grove, the much-admired residence of Mrs. Morgan, erected in 1578, but recently much enlarged and modernised. In the vicinity are the celebrated freestone quarries of Gwesper, the property of Sir P. MostjTi. The splendid custom-house of Liverpool is constructed of stone from these quarries. Prestatyn is at the beginning of an extensive tract of level country, extensively fertile. Of an ancient fortress, called Prestatyn Castle, nothing remains but an elevated space mark- ing the foundations. In the neighbourhood are the lead-mines of Talargoch, which produce an immense quantity of ore, and give employment to a gi-eat number of labourers. Near to the mines are the village and castle of Dyserth. This is a British fortress of great antiquity. Henry III. strengthened it in 1241, but in 1261 it was besieged and nearly demolished by Llewelyn the Great. Eiuion, a distinguished Welshman, having been slain here, a scidptured cross was erected to his memory, of which the shaft now forms the stile of Dyserth churchyard, where is another cross of curious workmanship and unknown antiquity. One mile from Dyserth, in the parish of Cwm, is a beautiful cascade, upon a small stream which rises at a spring called Ffynnon Asa, or St. Asaph's well, once accounted sacred, and having many votaries, liko that of St. Winefred at Holywell. D N 34 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD KHYL. [ITotels : Parade; Belvoir; Royal; Queen's; Mostjii Anns.] This is a resort for sea-bathing, situated at the low sandy termination of the vale of Clwyd, and near the outlet of the united rivers Clwyd and Elwy. It is altogether a modem creation, and is still rapidly extending. The shore is flat and uninteresting, and the adjacent country, for some miles in every direction, is a dull uninviting level ; yet Ehyl has proved powerfully attractive, and within a very short period has acquired the aspect of a cheerful, thriving, fashionable town. Its recommendations are, easy access, pure air, smooth firm sands, facilities for bathing, good hotels and lodging- houses, and some agreeable objects within moderate drives, as St. Asaph, Ehuddlan Castle, Denbigh, the vale of Clwyd, and the caverns near Cefn. Besides these there are also several gentlemen's seats within short distances, which may afford gratification to visitors — namely, Pengwern, the Honourable T. Pryce Lloyd ; Einmel Park, H. R. Hughes, Esq. ; Bddel- wyddan, Sir Hugh Williams, Bart. ; Bodryddan, W. Shipley Conwy, Esq. ; and Owrych Castle, Robert Hesketh, Esq. From various points in the neighbourhood good views are obtained of the Carnarvonshire moimtains, including Penmaen- mawr and Snowdon ; and sometimes also those of Cumber- land and Westmoreland. Rhyl is in the parish of Rhuddlan, but a commodious church has been erected in the town, and there are several Dissenting chaj^els. A new pier, opened in 1867, adds considerably to the attractions of the place, form- ing an agreeable promenade during the day and a ball-room at night. Besides numerous machines for bathing on the beach, there is a well-arranged building, with hot and cold sea-water baths ; and for the convenience and amusement of visitors, there are libraries, billiard and news rooms, a bowling- green, &c. The town is lighted with gas. Anglers may find sport in the Clwyd and Elwy, which are good trout-streams. Steam-packets pass for Liverjiool three times a-week. These receive and land their passengers at Foryd, near the mouth of the river, about a mile from Rhyl, and numerous cars await their arrival. The Railway Station is commodious, and ad- vantageously situated close to the town. It is just midway ABERGELE. 35 between Chester and Bangor, the railway distance from the former city being 30 miles, and from the latter, 29|- miles — each of these distances being accomplished by express and mail trains in less than one hour. The Vale of Clwyd l^ail- way branches off here to St. Asaph, Denbigh, Ruthen, Cor- wen, etc. Eesuming our progress on the main line, we reach ABERGELE* [Hotels: Bee; Bodelwyddan Amis ; Harp,] a small market-town and seaport, consisting chiefly of one wide, irregular street. Although the houses are more than half a mile from the coast, the salubrity of the air, and the suitableness of the smooth and firm sand, render it a favourite resort for sea-bathing. Its progress, however, has been of late years greatly surpassed by several neighbouring watering- places. There is good accommodation at the Bee Hotel and in private lodging-houses. Population of the parish, 3308. The Church is a neat edifice, built in the reign of Henry VIII., dedicated to St. Michael. An epitaph, without date, in the churchyard, records that a man lies buried there who " lived three miles norths This tends to confirm the statement, of which indeed there are many tokens, that the sea has made considerable encroachment. On the sea-coast, haK-a-mile to the north of Abergele, is the sea-bathing village of Pensarn, containing numerous lodging-houses of a good class, a Presbyterian chapel, and a hotel. This neighbourhood is adorned by many villas and man- sions, of which, in addition to some noticed at greater length, the following may be mentioned : Garthewin, Brownlow W. Wynne, Esq. ; Coed Cock, J. Lloyd Wynne, Esq. ; Pentremawr, Mrs. Jones Bateman ; Hafod linos, H. R. Sandbach, Esq. ; and Dyffryn Aled, Peirce Wynne Yorke, Esq. * Since the memorable accident ■which happened here in 1868, a revised code of instructions with respect to the shunting of trains has been in operation. The directors of the L. and N. W. Railway authorised an expendi- ture of £35,000 for additional siding accommodation upon this section. The siding at Llandulas, the insufficiency of which indirectly led to the accident, was accordingly nearly doubled in length. 36 CHESTER TO HOLTnEAD. GwRYCH Castle, the property of Robert Hesketh, Esq., is a proniinent object, about one mile from Abergele, on the road to Conway. It is a modern castellated edifice, the front of which extends nearly 500 yards, having on each side a terrace 420 yards in length. The principal tower, called Hesketh Tower, is about 90 feet high. This vast and imposing struc- ture will be acknowledged to be picturesque, and on some accounts may be regarded with admiration, yet few persons will fail to observe its incongruity, and to wish that purer taste had guided the erection. One of the entrance gateways bears the following inscriptions, referring to memorable his- torical events connected with this locality : — " I. Prioi- to the Noi-man Conquest, Harold, in his nttemrt to subjugate this part of the Principality, was encountered hy Gryffydd ap Llewelyn, Prince of Nortli Wales, on the plain near Cefn Ogo ; and after a sanguinary battle, in which he was defeated, was driven hack to Rhuddlan. "II. In the reign of William the Conqueror, Hugh Lupns, on his march to invade the island of Anglesey, passing through this defile, was attacked by an armed band of Welshmen, which liad been posted here to anticipate his pro- gress, anil of which, after an obstinate and protracted battle, 1100 were left dead on the spot. "III. In the reign of Henry II., Owen Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, on his return from Flintshire, fortified himself in this pass; when he gave battle to tlie forces of that monarch, and repulsed them with great slaughter; after having secured this imijortant jiost, he retreated to Pen-y-parc, in the adjoining jiarish, where he made head against the English forces, and effectually checked the further invasion of his dominions. "IV. Near this pass Richard II., whom Percy, Earl of Northumberland, under a pretence of an amicable interview with Bolingbroke, had inveigled from Conway Castle, on his retuin from Ireland, was, by a military band, bearing the Northumberland banner, surrounded and conducted to Flint Castle, where he was treacherously betrayed by the Earl into the power of the usurper." Here the late Mrs. Hemans passed nine years in early life, between the ages of 7 and 1 6, her family then residing in a large old mansion which has been removed in the course of modern alterations ; and of this j^lace her biographer writes as follows : " In the calm seclusion of this romantic region she imbibed that intense love of nature which, ever afterwards ' haunted her as a passion,' and that warm attachment for ' the green land of Wales,' its affectionate true-hearted people, their traditions, their music, and all their interesting characteristics, whicli she cherished to the last hour of her existence." Cefn yr Ogo, or Cave Hill, is a calcareous rock in which LLANDULAS ST. GKORGE. 37 is a singular and extensive natural cavern. The entrance, at a considerable elevation in the face of the rock, resembles a large Gothic aixh. The interior is divided by a wall of limestone, not unlike a massive sculptured pillar, into two compartments, one of which soon terminates, while the other becomes a spa- cious chamber, and is continued to an unknown extent in the interior of the mountain. The sides and roof are decorated with brilliant stalactites, and the floor is covered with masses of deep orange-coloured stalagmite, producing forms at once curious and beautiful. Many labourers are constantly em- ployed in blasting the rock, and breaking the masses, and large quantities of lime are sent hence to Liverpool and other parts of England. Some rare plants and curious fossils are found in this neighbourhood. Llandulas is a small village in a pleasant glen, remark- able as the spot where Richard 11. was met and betrayed. A good pier was formed in 1822, connected with a railway which serves to convey the stone and lime from Llysfaen quarries, down a steep incline. Llanelian is a village in a valley to the left, celebrated for its holy well, or Ffynnon Elian, wliich, owing to an absiird tradition, was long the terror of the neighbourhood. There is another holy well of the same name in Anglesey. A few miles to the south of Abergele is Kinmel Hall, a noble mansion, long the residence of the first Baron Dinorben, who died in 1852. Upon the decease of his son, at the close of the same year, the title became extinct. Hugh Robert Hughes, Esq., succeeded to the valuable entailed estates. The extensive park is richly diversified, adorned with majestic timber, and well stocked with deer. The park-wall, with ornamental ii'on palisade, extends a great distance at the side of the road, in both the comities of Flint and Denbigh, the mansion being situated in the latter. The gate and lodge at the N.W. form a noble and imposing entrance. In the im- mediate vicinity is the neat village of St. George, or Llan St. Sior, the church of which was, a few years since, restored by the late Lord Dinorben ; who also erected a mausoleum of remarkably chaste and elegant design. In the church a spur of great size is suspended, called Oliver Cromwell's spur, and there is a tradition that the Pro- tector was for a time concealed at Kinmel. On the summit 38 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. of an adjacent hill are the remains of a camp formed by Owen Gw'ynedd, during his valiant struggles against English en- croachments. The people of the village will readily point out the place " where the old battles were fought." This height affords a good view of the grand scenery of Carnar- vonshire, including the Great Orme's Head, the enormous Penmaen-mawr, and the three majestic peaks of Snowdon. CoLWYN is a small village resorted to for sea-bathing. The railfl ay line here leaves the coast, and cuts across the tongue of land called Creuddyn to the important station of LLANDUDNO JUNCTION. (Refreshment-room here.) The various lines concentrating here will be best under- stood from the map. The Vale of Conway route, diverging to the south by Llanrwst and Bettws-y-coed, now forms a very agreeable approach to Snowdon from Capel Curig, there being regular, coaches between Bettws and the excellent hotel at Capel Curig. This route, however, will be subsequently re- ferred to. A peninsular promontory forms here a detached portion of the county of Carnarvon, extending far into the Irish Sea, and terminating in the rocky point of the Great Orme's Head. It is a hundred, or division of the county, called Creuddyn, and contains the three parishes of lEglwys Rhos, Llandudno, and Llangwstennin, with a part of the parish of Llandrillo-yn- Rhos. Population of the hundi-ed, 5025. The distance from the junction to Llandudno is 4 miles, and in the way are situated the celebrated ruins of Diganwy Castle, or Dinas Gomvy — i.e. the fort of the Conway ; by English historians called Gannoc. It is supposed to have been erected about the time of the Norman Conquest, although the earlier Welsh annals refer to a fortress on this site destroyed by lightning in 810. The castle, of which small fragments only are now re- maining, appears to have consisted of two massive roirnd towers occupying the summits of adjacent hills, and connected by two parallel curtain-walls. The situation was admirably adapted for defending the entrance to the river. Here it was that prince Elfin, the patron and friend of the bard Taliesin, LLANDUDNO. 39 was confined by his uncle Maengwyn, when the irresistible influence of the poet's lays procured his release. King John encamped under these walls in 1211, and was reduced to great distress by Prince Llewelyn ; and Henry III. had similar fortune at the same place. The castle is said to have been destroyed by Edward I. Mrs. Hemans' beautiful little poem, " The Ruin and its Flowers," was written on an excursion to Diganwy. A modern mansion in the immediate neighbour- hood, which assumed the name of the old fortress, has recently been purchased by a company, and converted into a first-rate hotel, called Diganwy Castle Hotel. Hence, passing Bodys- callen, an ancient seat of the Wynnes, and now the summer residence of M. D. HoUings, Esq. ; and the neat little viEage of Llanrhos, or Eglwys Bkos, the burial-place of Maegh^yn Gwynedd ; visit Gloddaeth, a noble mansion erected by Sir Roger Mostyn, in the reign of Elizabeth, and retained ever since in the possession of that family. The extensive pleasure- grounds by which it is surroimded, with their soft verdure and rich cultivation, present a striking contrast to the neigh- bouring scenery. The library, containing valuable Welsh manuscripts, has been removed to Mostyn Hall, Flintshire. Two miles from Gloddaeth, on the coast, is a singular structiu-e enclosing a well, ha\'ing three windows and a door, with a vaulted roof covered with pebbles instead of slates, called St. Trillo's Chapel. Half-a-mile further is the parish church of Llandrillo, and near to it are the ruins of Bryn Enryn, where, in the 6th century, Maelgwyn Gwynedd took refuge ; and which, at a later period, became one of the thirteen palaces of the renowned Edmjfed Fychan, an ancestor of Owen Tudor. At the terminus of the branch we reach Llandudno. LLANDUDNO [Hotels: Queen's; St. George's; Adelphi; Royal; Imperial.] is an elegant watering-place, built under the shelter of a rock called the Great Orme's Head, and extending along the level sand towards the Smaller Orme's Head. The houses, which are handsome, are beautifully disposed along the coast, in accordance with a well-arranged plan, and command a noble prospect of tbe Irish Sea. It is now much esteemed as a 40 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. summer resort and bathing-place, for which its situation has peculiar and undoubted advantages. It contains two churches, several Dissenting chaj^els, numerous lodging-houses, a noble reading-room, and baths. Druidical and other British antiquities are numerous in the vicinity. On an eminence called Dinas, or Pen-y-ddinas, are remains of a British fortification, which gives the name to the hundred — viz. " Creuddyn" {the bloody fort), consisting of a wall of great thickness around the summit of the hill, within which are a number of large circular excavations, sup- posed by Mr. Pennant to have been the rude habitations of the native possessors. Within this also is a large rocking- stone called Cryd Tudno, or St. Tudno's Cradle, a huge rude block, surrounded by a fosse. About a quarter of a mile from this ancient fort, in a westerly direction, we come across an old British cell, devoted to the service of the Moon probably, as its name, " Lletty'r filiast" {the cell of the grexjhound hitch), implies ; and close behind this are the remains of an old cairn, where many urns were found some years ago. On the western extremity of the Orme, close to the sea and not very much above its level, are to be seen the ruins of Gogarth Abbey. This was for- merly an appendage to the Abbey of Conway, and though now washed by the sea, was formerly quite inland. The low table-land on which this ruin stands is crescentic in shape, and well sheltered from the north and east by the abrupt rising of the rock behind. This warm situation will eventually become the Undercliff of Llandudno, for which it is admirably adapted.* The Great Orme's Head is a vast rocky promontory, converted into an agreeable promenade and place of recreation. It is surrounded by a walk, aflbrding beautiful marine views, and an inland prospect towards the vale of Conway and the range of Caernarvonshire mountains. The cliffs, which are very abrupt, and hollowed into caverns by the action of the sea, abound with sea-birds. The rock, which seems formerly to have been an island, consists of carboniferous limestone, uniformly dipping from every side towards a common centre, * For further information regarding this locality, see Catherall and Prichard's Guide-Book of Llandudno, and Thomas Williams' History and Natural history of Llandudno. Scale of One Mdo i S S iL i Plan of Llandudno. 42 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. where a valuable deposit of copper-ore is embedded. The highest point of the Orme rises abruptly in the shape of a huge conical elevation to the height of 750 feet above the sea-level, and commands an extensive view on all sides. Eesuming the route at Llandudno junction, we cross the mouth of the river Conway by a tubular bridge, constructed on the same princij^le as the one across the Menai Straits, and enter CONWAY, OR ABERCONWAY. [Hotels: Castle; Erskine Arras; Harp; Liverpool Arms.] Chester, 45 miles; Bangor, 15; Rhyl, 15 ; Llanrwst, 12; Bettws-y-coed, 16; Llandudno, 4 ; Penmaen-mawr, 4J ; Aber, 9 ; Caerhun, 4J ; Porthllwyd Waterfall, 6. When approaching this ancient fortified town, its aspect is so singularly grand and impressive, that strangers are apt to indulge expectations which the first near view of its poor, ill-built, neglected streets will be likely to disappoint ; and the remark of Pennant may seem to be verified — "A more ragged town within is scarcely to be seen, nor a more beauti- ful one without." However, more deliberate inspection and more intimate knowledge may justify the opinion of Sir R. C. Hoare, who says of this place — " I have seen no town where the military works of art are so happily blended with the picturesque features of nature ; and no spot which the artist will at first sight view with greater rapture, or quit with greater reluctance." In Like manner, another competent judge. Miss Costello, writes — " We had heard much of this boast of North Wales, and on our arrival, far from considering that too much had been said, I think that no description, however enthusiastic, can do justice to one of the most romantic and interesting spots in Europe." The towTi is beautifully situated, on a steep slope, on the left bank of the river Conway, where it falls into the ocean, and hence the name by which the Welsh generally designate it, Aberconway. It is of a triangular form, somewhat resemb- ling the shape of a Welsh harp, to which it is commonly likened. It is surrounded by a wall, one mile and a quarter in length, and 12 feet thick, fortified with towers and battle- ments. These, together with four gateways, are in a good state of preservation. It presents a rare example of the CONWAY. 43 Saracenic or Moorish style of building, which was introduced by the Crusaders on returning from the east. PLAN OF CONWAY. There are some curious old timber houses ; and one, espe- cially, is worthy of notice, called Plas Mawr, or the Great Mansion, and bearing date 1585. It was built by Robert Wynn of Gwydir, in the reign of Elizabeth, and is a good specimen of the domestic architecture of that period. It now belongs to the family of Mostyn, by whom it is kept in repair. The tourist will have no difficulty in obtaining access, and will be gratified by a sight of the spacious rooms, with their panelled walls and carved decorations. Besides the letters R.W., the initials of the founder, the letters E.R. and R.D. frequently occur ; thus coupling the initials of the Queen with those of her haughty favourite Leicester. The Church has little to interest, either in its architecture or its history. 44 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. There are some good nioiuinicnts of the Wynns, and a stone is pointed out, with an inscription in memory of " Nicholas Hookes, of Conway, Gent., who was the 41st child of his father, "William Hookes, Esq., by Alice, his wife, and the father of 27 children, who died 20th March 1637." Pop. 1855. The authentic annals of the town commence with Conway Castle, erected in 1284 by Edward I., as a security against Welsh insurrection, commanding the pass of '^"^."^-T^^^l ■■■■ ■- ,, .iuuiim .*J -.' '^-' !■ til \ li" ' Jra..'-iM. HI ',r--7":i==:fer?=fe^" CONWAY CASTLE FROM THE BIVER. • Penmaen-mawr, which then formed, as it now does, the road to Snowdon and Anglesey. When in its perfect state, this castle must have been one of the most magnificent fortresses of Britain. Pennant says, " one more beautiful never arose." The form was oblong, and it was placed on the verge of a pre- cipitous rock, one side bounded by the river, a second by a creek filled at every tide, and the remaining two facing the town. On the land side was a moat, cro.ssed by a drawbridge. A small entrance, well defended, communicated with the river CONWAY CASTLE AND SUSPENSION BRroOE. 45 by narrow winding steps cut in the rock. The walls were of great thickness, and flanked by eight vast circular embattled towers, each of which was surmounted by a slender watch- tower, singularly graceful and elegant. The two at the sides of the grand entrance were called the King's and the Queen's towers ; and in each there was a beautiful oriel window. The. interior of the castle was divided into two courts. The great hall was 130 feet long, 30 feet wide, and 20 feet high, lighted by nine windows, six lancet-shaped opening upon the creek, and three larger and pointed looking towards the spacious court. The roof was supported by eight massive arches, four of which remain, overgrown with ivy. Beneath were extensive vaults for ammunition and provisions. Edward, accompanied by his consort Eleanor, and attended by many English nobles, spent a Christmas liere, indulging in all the festivities of a luxurious court. The castle was taken by the Parliamentary forces under General Mytton in 1646. In 1665, Edward, Earl of Conway, to whom a grant of it had been made after the Restoration, dismantled this beautiful fortress in a barbarous manner, and caused the timber, iron, lead, and other movable materials to be transported to Ire- land for the repair of his own pro^jerty in that kingdom. This fortress has been made the scene of Lewis's drama " The Castle SiJectre" and of Gray's well-known ode " The Bardl^ The ruin is the property of the crown, and is held at a nomi- nal rent by the Dowager Lady Erskine. Conway Suspension Bridge was designed and executed by Mr. Telford, under the sanction of parliamentary commis- sioners, in order to obviate the inconvenience and hazard of the jirevious ferry. The work was commenced in 1822, and completed in 1826. The chains at the W. extremity are con- ducted and secured within the rock beneath the castle, and at the E. end within a rock before insulated, but now connected with the shore by an embankment 2013 feet long, and at an extreme elevation of 54 feet. The suspended roadway measures between the centres of the towers 327 feet ; it is 32 feet wide, and is elevated 18 feet above high water. The princi])les on which this bridge is constructed are precisely the same as those of the suspension bridge carried by the same eminent engineer across the straits of Menai. The same remark applies to the tubular bridge, which stands 46 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. close beneath tlie walls of the venerable castle, and only a few feet south from the chain bridge. The masonry of both these bridges is designed to harmonise with that of the castle, the whole forming a most picturesque group. The construction of this bridge is in all respects similar to that over the Menai Straits, but it consists of only one span of 400 feet, which is 60 feet less than that of the Britannia Bridge, and its elevation above high water is only 18 feet. The first stone was laid on June 15, 1846. The first tube was commenced in March 1847. It was floated on March 6, 1848, and raised to its position on April 16, and on May 1 trains passed through it. The second tube was floated on October 12, 1848, and at the end of that month the whole was in daily use for traflic. Starting again from Conway, the next station reached is PENMAEN-MAWR. Five miles from Conway. [Hotel : The Penmaen-Mawr, large and excellent, close to station and shore. Connected with the hotel is a complete sea-bathing establishment.] This delightful and retired watering-place is situated in the plain of Dwygyfylchi, a favoured tract, distinguished for its fertility, and screened from every harsh wind by the two headlands Penmaen-ma\\T and Penmaen-bach, which form the northern terminating jDoint of the grand Snowdon range of mountains. Penmaen signifies the head or end of the stone, or rock ; and mawr and hach are, respectively, great and small. The latter is a mass of rock, projecting boldly toward the sea, the road being carried round the point, and near to the beach, without much elevation ; while, for the railway, the rock is pierced by a tunnel 630 yards in length. A few years ago this sequestered spot was known only to the primitive inhabit- ants of the little village of Penmina ; now villas of every size and style are dotted over the hills. The old road from Conway — a charming walk for foot- passengers — leaves the old town by the arched gateway in the south-west angle of the walls, traverses some wild moor- land coxmtry until it gains the top of the neck of Penmaen-bach (a, Swiss pass in miniature), and then descends in a zig/ag PKNMAEN-MAWR. 47 course down the side of the dry valley (Sychnant) to the an- cient village of Dwygyfylchi (pronounced Duegevelchi), pre- senting at every step views of sea, mountain, and valley. From this village there is a narrow path, which leads to " The Glen," a deep ravine of great beauty and wildness, lying between two thickly- wooded hills. Down the centre of this ravine a rapid river rushes wildly over stones and rocks, and in one place, at three bounds, makes a beautiful waterfall, amidst a tropical luxuriance of tall ferns, pine-trees, wild flowers, grasses, and moss-covered rocks. On the lower side of the village there is a prettily-wooded dell, in the midst of which, haK-biiried in trees, stands the parish church, a building of no architectural pretensions, but having a quaint and hallowed aspect. Beyond the church lies PendyfFryn Park, the seat of S. D. Darbyshire, Esq., and, a little further on, the promontory of Penmaen-bach slopes into the sea. After leaving the old village, the road passes Taibach, the residence of the Rev. J. Hughes ; a little farther, that of H. Cram, Esq. ; and soon after turns round a projecting spur ol Moel Llys, called from tradition " The Rock of Weeping." A little further on we pass the modern mansion of Murray Gladstone, Esq., and then descend the hill Bryntirion, or j\Iount Pleasant, with its new church. At the junction with the new road from Conway there are many handsome villas, some pretty cottages — one of which is the old post-office — and a few shoj^s. We now enter on the Chester and Holyhead turnpike road (passing the branch road on the right hand, which leads to the hotel), and pass the pretty summer retreat of R. Knee- shaw, Esq., and soon after the tramway of the Craiglwyd Quarry Company, who obtain here the Welsh paving-stones of hard blue trap-rock, which constitutes the structure of this range of movmtains. Travellers with steady heads may take their seats in the empty trucks (used for lowering the stone down from the mountain) and save themselves the fatigue of making the ascent of the mountain. Beyond Plas-ty-mawr — a spot selected by the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone as a summer residence — in the midst of its pleasant grounds, is the village of Penmina — a row of cottages inhabited by the workmen of the stone-quarries. Immediately after leading tliis villase 48 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. we enter the Pass of Penmaen-mawr, a vast, gloomy rock, presenting towards the sea a rugged and almost perpendicular front, its height above sea-level being 1553 feet. The stu- pendous obstruction to travellers was formerly surmounted only by a steep zigzag road, narrow and unprotected, the passage of which must have been truly terrific and dangerous. At each extremity there was a small public-house, on the sign-boards of which appeared the following couplets, attri- buted to the wdtty Dean Swift :- — " Before you venture hence to pass, Take a good refreshing glass." " Now you're over, take another, Your drooijing spirits to recover." Many disastrous occurrences are recorded in connection with this formidable pass. At length, in 1772, the government was induced to assist in executing a plan suggested by a !Mr. John Sylvester, and in laying out the present line of road, which has, more recently, been further and very greatly im- proved under the direction of Mr. Telford. It is now broad and safe, well guarded on the sea-side, and forming a truly noble terrace, along which the traveller walks or rides in per- fect security, beneath the huge shadows of the gigantic cliff, on the one side ; and looking down, on the other, to a splen- did ocean view, the broad waters of the Menai, the bold pro- montory of Orme's Head, the island of Priestholm, which seems to hold the key of the straits, and the town of Beau- maris. On the summit of Penmaen-mawr stands Braich-y-Dinas, (or Dinas Penmaen), a British fortified post of extraordinary strength, and of extent sufficient to afford shelter to 20,000 men. Within the innermost enclosure is a well with an unfail- ing supply of pure fresh water. This is deemed the strongest post possessed by the Britons in the district of Snowdon ; it was, indeed, impregnable. Here the reduced bands of the brave Welsh army were stationed during the negotiation be- tween their Prince LleweljTi and King Edward I. About a mile from Braich-y-Dinas is Y Meini Hirion, a remarkable Druiili- cal circle, 80 feet in diameter, consisting of ten erect stones, enclosed by a stone wall, besides several smaller circles, one of which surrounds the remains of a cromlech. One of 5lislieaiiyA,& C.Black.f Ih\ut/i .1': -£': o^ « ,7 Z d a c. 3h <^ PENRHYN CASTLE. ^ 55 aud tlie abundance and prosperity resulting from his en- lightened effoits. The parish is more than 1 5 miles in length, stretching from the shore of the Menai straits far into the mountainous region of Snowdon, and including a district which abounds with, mineral treasures. Llandegai was the scene of battle during the civil wars. It was here that Sir John Owen, with a small company of soldiers, attempted to arrest the progress of the Parliamentary forces under Carter and Twistleton. Sir John was overpowered, and while many of his men were killed, he, with a hundred others, was taken prisoner. He was sent to Walmer Castle, and put on trial along with the Duke of Hamilton, Lord Holland, and other nobles. "When condemned, aud sentenced to be beheaded, he bowed and gave thanks to his judges ; and on being asked what he meant, he replied that he deemed it a great honour to lose his head with such noble lords, and that being a plain gentleman of Wales, he had been afraid that they would hang him. He was, however, deprived of this " great honour," for Ireton having pleaded in his behalf, he received a pardon, and retired to Wales, where he died in 1666. A monimient was erected to his memory at Penmorfa church, Carnarvon- shire. Here, we are at the main entrance-gate to Penrhtn Castle, the magnificent mansion of Loi-d Penrhyn, which occupies a commanding elevation half-a-mile to the north of Llandegai village, on the supjjosed site of the ancient palace of Eoderic MolwjTiog, Prince of Wales. It is constructed in the richest Norman style, and displays a vast range of buildings cro\^Tied with lofty toM'ers, of which five are circular, and two are square with angular turrets. One of these, the great tower, or keep, is copied from Rochester Castle. The park, about 7 miles in circuit, is surrounded by a lofty fence constructed of slate. Respectable strangers will easily obtain admittance to the castle on Tuesdays and also on Thursdays, in the event of the family being absent. In the splendour of the apartments, furniture, and decorations, mucb will be found to interest and gratify the visitor ; while, Dossibly, some may incline to judge that the enormous pro- fusion of splendid and gorgeous ornament displays an elabora- tion and excess beyond what true taste can approve . Among the heirlooms of Penrlnni is a Hirlas, or drinking-horn, the large bugle of an ox, chased with silver, and suspended b}- a 50 CHESTEU TO HOLYHEAD. silver chain ; curious as a memorial of ancient manners. This appears to have belonged to the hero, Piers Gryffydd. who owned the Penrhyn estate in the reign of Elizabeth. He joined the fleet of Sir Francis Drake, in a vessel which, he purchased and equipped at his own cost, and was engaged in the action with the Spanish Armada. Another specimen of the Hirlas is in the jjossession of Earl Cawdor, at Golden Grove, Carmarthenshire. The Hirlas appears to have been used at festivals, in the same manner as the Saxon wassail- bowl, and it was customary that those who had the honour of drinking from it should emjity the horn at one draught, and then sound it, to prove that they had thoroughly performed the required feat. Tlie name Hirlas, a compound of Mr, long, and glds, blue or azure, is alluded to in the spirited poem of Owen Cyfeiliog, Prince of Powis, addi-essed to his cup-bearer: — " Pride of feasts, profound and blue. Of the ninth wave's azure hue. The drinlc of heroes formed to hold. With art enriched, and lid of gold." One of the Welsh melodies of Mrs. Hemans may recur to the memory of the reader : — " Fill high the blue hirlas, that shines like the wave. When sunbeams are bright on the spray of the sea ; And bear thou the rich foaming mead to the brave. The dragons of battle, the sons of the free 1 To those from whose spears, in the shock of the fight, A beam, like heaven's lightning, flashed over the field ; To those who came rushing, as storms in their might ; Who have shivered the helmet, and cloven the shield ; The sound of whose strife was like ocean's afar, When lances were red from the harvest of war. " Fill higher the hirlas ! forgetting not those Who shared its bright draught in the days which are fled. Though cold on their mountains the valiant repose. Their lot shall be lovely — renown to the dead ! While harps in the hall of the feast shall be strung. While regal Eryri * witli snow shall be crowned — So long by the bards shall their battles be sung. And the heart of the hero shall burn at the sound. The free winds o( Maelor\ shall swell with their name, And Owen's rich hirlas be filled to their fame." * Erxjrl, the native designation of Snowdon, probably signifying eagles' rocks t Unelor, part of the counties of Denbigh and Flint. BETHESDA, 5 7 On leaving Llandegai the road follows the left bank of the Ogwen for about a mile ; then, crossing to the right bank, it contimies upwards to Bethesda [Hotel: The Douglas Arms]. This village contains from 5000 to 6000 inhabitants, who are ciiiefly em- ployed in the slate-quarry, and the population is on the in- crease. The village contains handsome shops, and has also weekly markets, the largest being that on which the quarry- men receive their monthly pay. On the left, at the upper part of the town, is the beautiful church erected by Lord Penrhyn, and endowed in 1856. On the side of the hiU. above the church are a number of model cottages called Bryn Eghv^^s, built on the Penrhyn estate, which are particularly comfortable and clean, and supplied with gardens, in which the quarrymen (who are particularly fond of gardening) re- create themselves after their day's work. Below the church is the National school (also erected and maintained by Lord Penrhyn), in which about 230 children are instructed. On the opposite side of the road is Ogwen Terrace, a row of about 21 houses and shops ; and higher up is the principal hotel — The Douglas Arms — in which the tourist will find excellent accommodation. It is situated on the banks of the Ogwen river, and being the nearest hotel to the famous Ogwen Lake (distant 4 miles), it is a resort of anglers. The proprietor has the privilege of supplying boats on Lake Ogwen to tourists. At Bethesda the tourist is within 10 miles of Capel Cuiig. The Penrhyn Slate-Quarries are situated about 1 mile from the village, and 6 miles to the south of Bangor. They are the property of Lord PenrhjTi, and their inspection will fully repay the trouble and time of a visit. They are of vast extent, and wrought with every improvement of mechanical science. The tourist may be interested in observing and ad- miring the ingenious processes adopted in the preparation of slates for various purposes. The loud hum of busy life and industry, the startling blasts perpetually recurring and rever- berating from hill to hiU, the throngs of labourers suspended by ropes over the face of the cliffs, or standing on narrow ledges of rock, the ranges of galleries formed one above an- other, the prunping engines, the inclined planes, the mills and saws, and the heaps of slates duly assorted and covering many acres of ground, will combine to produce astonishment 58 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. at the commercial enterprise wliicli has transformed these mountain-wastes into sources of industrious occupation, private wealth, and national prosjjerity. An average quantity of 200 tons of slates is daily con- veyed hence by railway to the port at Bangor, whence they are exported not only to every part of the United Kingdom, but to almost all places in the civilised world. About 3000 men and boys have constant employment in the quarries ; and, including those engaged at the port, and the wives and children of the workmen, not fewer than 11,000 individuals are supported by these works. It is gratifying to know that, while employment, adequately remmierated, siipplies the sur- rounding popultition with the means of subsistence and com- fort, provision is liberally made for their intellectual, moral, and religious culture. About a mile beyond Bethesda is Ogwen Bank (an occasional residence of Lord Penrhyn), an elegant cottage or mansion of moderate extent, surrounded with luxuriant plantations of flowering shrubs and forest- trees, strikingly contrasting with the bleak and barren moun- tains in the vicinity. Near to it there is a remarkable fall of the river Ogwen. The road may be agreeably continued by Lake Ogwen to Capel Curig, which is 15 miles distant from Bangor. MENAI SUSPENSION AND BRITANNIA TUBULAR BRIDGES. The Menai Suspension Bridge is approached from Bangor by an excellent road, affording fine views of the sur- rounding scenery. Tiie distance from the city to the bridge is 2| miles. The Menai Strait, which the bridge crosses, is a channel separating the island of Anglesey from the county of Carnarvon. It extends about 14 miles from Beaumaris at the N.E., to Abermenai at the S.W., varying in breadth from 200 yards to 2 miles. Prior to the erection of the bridge, the commimication between the opposite shores was effected by means of ferry-boats only ; and the passage, necessarily occa- sioning much inconvenience and delay, was not uufrequently attended by considerable danger. Being in the direct course MENAI SUSPENSION BRIDGE. ■ 59 to Holyhead, the nearest port to Ireland, it became of great public importance that the communication should be rendered as safe and expeditious as possible ; while it was necessary, in accomplishing this purpose, to avoid all obstruction to the navigation of the strait ; and hence arose the idea of a hanging bridge, supported without the erection of piers and arches in the channel. Designs were prepared by the late Thomas Telford, whose engineering skill had been displayed in forming the great parliamentary roads with which this passage is con- nected. The undertaking was commenced in 1819. The first suspension-chain was carried over in April 1825, the last in July of the same year, and the bridge was opened to the public on January 30, 1826, when the London and Holyhead mail-coach was driven across. The expense incurred by government was £120,000. The following are some of the dimensions : — Feet. Length of each chain from the fastenings in the rock . . 1715 Length of the suspending portion of each chain, between the supporting piers, forming a cur\-ature .... 590 Length of the roadway suspended between those piers . . 550 Total length of the roadway 1000 Height of the two suspending piers from the level of the roadway 53 Height of the roadway from the level of high water at spring tides 100 Breadth of the roadway. Including two carriage-ways and a footpath 30 The 16 suspending chains are earned 60 feet through solid rock. The suspending power of the chains has been calculated to be 2016 tons, and as the whole weight of the suspended portion of the bridge is not more than 489 tons, there remains a disposable power of 1527 tons. A ship of 300 tons burden, with all sails set, can pass beneath, leaving several feet between the topmast and the roadway of the bridge. During a gale, a slight oscillation may be perceived from the shore, but no visible effect is produced by the passing of the hea^dest car- riages. It is not from the elevation of the turnpike road, nor even when standing upon the bridge itself, that its majestic proportions are best appreciated ; it is needful to descend, to stand beneath, and to look upward, in order to form an esti- mate of this truly admirable structure, especially of its union of strength and grace, in every part ponderous and gigantic, 60 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. wliile yet the whole displays the perfection of lightness and elegance. The principles of its construction, and even the details of its execution, are so generally known, that there is no occasion lor more lengthened description. The Suspension Bridge is no longer a novelty, and the interest which it.attracted, for more than twenty-five years, was, in great measure, diverted to its neighbour, the Britannia Tubular Bridge. Undoubtedly, that achievement of engineering science and skill must be ac- knowledged to be in some res23ects more stupendous, yet the chain bridge of Telford can never cease to be admired for its elegance, in union with perfect security. It has now for more than forty years endured the sti'ain of traffic and of storms, and it will abide a national monument, worthy of the master mind by which it was conceived. The Britannia Tubolar Bridge and its neighbour at Conway are stupendous works, by means of which the Chester and Holyhead Railway becomes an unbroken line to its ter- minus at the harbour of Holyhead. Between the two bridges there is no material difference, except in their dim.ensions. They were designed at the same time, and the principles and details of construction are iden- tical. It will suffice, therefore, to furnish a full account of the larger. In constructing the railway, which was to form a link in the connection of London with Holyhead, and thence wdth Ireland, it became matter of most serious consideration how to span the two openings occasioned by the Conway river and the Menai straits. The admirable suspension bridges, pre- viously constructed by TeKord, on the line of the great turn- pike road connecting the metropolis and Holyhead, were obviously not available for this purpose ; and to the formation of additional bridges on the same principle, there was the formidable objection, that such structures, being inevitably liable to oscillation or undulation, the transit of the enormous weights of railway trains would be attended with much in- convenience and hazard. It was requisite to secure a roadway which, besides the indispensable quality of strength, should l)0ssess likewise that of stiffness, affording steady, inflexible support, during the rapid movement of the heaviest trains. Mr. R. Stephenson, the eminent engineer consulted by the KAILWAY TUBULAR BRIDGE. 61 railway company proposed the erection of bridges with, cast- iron arches having a span of 450 feet ; but, as the necessity of avoiding obstructions to the important navigation of the strait precluded the use of scaffolding, or centering, during the progress of the work ; and as, moreover, the Commissioners of the Admiralty insisted on leaving a clear space of 100 feet between the water and the bridge, not merely at the crowoi of the arches, but also close to the piers, Mr. Stephenson was obliged to relinquish the purpose of an arched form ; and he was then led to adopt the idea of constructing, in some en- tirely new method, a beam, which should depend for its stability on the strength of its parts, and which, having been put together elsewhere, might be lifted entire and at once into its place. A series of experiments was conducted with the view of ascertaining the practicability of this scheme, and of testing the strength of materials in different forms. In these experiments Mr. Stephenson was aided by the distinguished mathematical science and practical skill of Mr. (now Sir William) Fairbairn and Professor Hodgkinson ; and in the course of these investi- gations, the original idea of Mr. Stephenson received important modifications from the suggestions of Mr. Fairbairn. As the result, it was determined to adopt the principle of hoUow rectangular beams of wrought iron ; and particularly, to secure the requisite strength by rendering the top and bottom of the beams cellular, consisting of a series of hollows, or flues, running the whole length of the bridge. In estimating the value and importance of this result, it must be remembered that the tubes, of which the bridges consist, are nothing but gigantic beams ; and at the same time, that these beams are adapted and adequate to their purpose because they are tubes. As beams, they derive no strength from any transmission of horizontal pressure to the abutments, such as is given to an arch ; nor from any mode of suspension, as in a chain bridge ; but they have power to resist incumbent pressure, on exactly the same principles as the short plank by which the village brook is crossed. Yet their form, and the method of employ- ing the material of which they are composed, are very diffe- rent from those of a simple beam, or girder. They are tubular, and it is in this peculiarity that their strength and adaptation consist. 62 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD The worJ " tube," as applied to these bridges, may convey to persons unacquainted with them an erroneous imiDression, By a tube is commonly meant a round pij^e, of no very con- siderable size ; whereas it is here employed to denote a hollow square of great breadth and height. These bridges are " tubu- lar'," for not only are they hollow from end to end, and closed in, all round, in manner of a tube ; but further, both their roof and floor are formed of rows of smaller square tubes, side by side, all firmly connected together, adding most materially and essentially to the strength and stiffness of the main body. Indeed, on a close scientific investigation, its great strength will be found to reside in the cellular structure at the top and bottom. This, which is by far the most original and ingenious part of the work, constitutes the chief and in- dispensable element of its strength ; and it ap2:)ears that to Mr. Fairbairn, pre-eminently, the credit of this discovery must be assigTied. If a reason be demanded for this tubular form in the main body, and for the multiplication of tubes at the top and bottom, in preference to solid beams, in form like a plank laid over a narrow opening, but with breadth and height enlarged in proportion to the extent, the answer is supplied by the fact, well ascertained and easily demonstrated, that after a certain size has been reached, a solid form is the most inefficient way of employing a given quantity of material. A thin tube, of any material, is far stronger than the same quantity compressed into a solid rod of the same length. How strong is a quill, or a straw, in proportion to the very small quantity of material it contains ; and it is w'ell known that the bones of birds, while much lighter than those of other animals of equal size, are quite as strong, from their hollow or tubular form. In the case of the tube-bridges, persons con- versant with mechanics will easily ascertain by calculation, that a solid bar of iron, could such a thing be made, of the same dimensions as one of the large tubes, would not even sustain its own weight. These hollow beams are capable of bearing nine times the weight of the longest railway train that could possibly pass through them — that is to say, a train of their own length ; yet if, instead of being hollow, they had been solid iron beams of the same dimensions, they would not only have been imable to sustain the required load, but, RAILWAY TUBULAR BRIDGE. 63 by the mere force of their own •weight, they would have been so compressed on the one side, and so distended on the other side, that they would inevitably have been bent and burst asunder. Thus, it was after the maturest consideration, assisted by all the lights of mechanical and mathematical science, that the railway company were led to the adoption of the simple and bold design which was most successfully carried out. The site is exactly a mile farther from Bangor and nearer to Carnarvon than the Suspension Bridge. The channel is wider here, being at high water about 1100 feet across. It is divided in the middle by the Britannia rock, which at low water is insulated, but at high w^ater covered to a depth of 10 feet. The tide ordinarily rises 20 feet, and runs at the very rapid rate of 9 miles an hour. The masonry of the bridge, forming its supports, consists of two abutments, situated inland, one in Carnarvonshire, the other in Anglesey ; two towers, on the opposite shores, called the side towers ; and the centre, or Britannia tower, resting on the Britannia rock in the middle of the channel, from which the bridge takes its name. Each abutment measures . . . 176 feet, equal to 352 feet. Distance from abutment to side tower . 230 „ ,, 460 „ Distance from side tower to centre tower 460 „ ,, 920 „ Breadth of each side tower at level of road 32 ,, „ 64 ,, Breadth of centre tower at level of road — ,, ,, 45 ,, 5 in. Total length of the roadway of the bridge 1S41 feet 5 in. The Britannia tower measures at its base 62 feet by 52 feet 5 inches ; it has a gentle taper, so that where the tubes enter it is 55 feet by 45 feet 5 inches. Its total height from the bottom of the foundation is 230 feet. The side or land towers are each 62 feet by 52 feet five inches at the base, tapering to 55 feet by 32 feet at the bottom of the tubes ; their height is 190 feet from high-water level. The space between the sea at high tide and the bottom of the roadway of the bridge is 1 1 feet. The stone of which the towers and abutments are built is a hard carboniferous limestone, called Anglesey marble, obtained from quarries opened for the purpose on the sea- shore at Penmen, 4 miles N. from Beaumaris. It abounds with fossUs, and is capable of receiving a very high polisk r4 CHESTER TO HOLTHEAD. The approaches to the bridge are ornamented on each side by a pair of colossal statues of Egyptian lions, each being com- posed of eleven pieces of limestone. Their height, although in a couchant attitude, is 12 feet, their length is 25 feet, and their weight about 30 tons each. This massive stone-work is the support of the two immense ■vvrought-iron tubes or tunnels, placed side by side ; the ends resting on the abutments, and the intermediate portions rest- ing on the three towers. The construction of these tubes, and the mode of their elevation, are now to be noticed. Each of the two separate lines of tube of which the bridge consists being divided into four spans, the whole was formed in eight separate lengths of tube, namely, two at each end for the smaller spans which are over the land, 230 feet in length ; and four others for the two principal spans which are over the water, each being 460 feet in length. The four shorter tubes, or those which extend over the land from the abutments to the side towers, were constructed on j^latforms at their ultimate level, and did not require removal ; but the four longer tubes, which overhang the stream, were constructed on timber plat- forms along the beach, on the Carnarvon shore, just above the level of high water. The length of each of these four tubes, as constructed on the platform, is 472 feet, that is, 12 feet longer than the clear span between the towers. The weight of iron in one tube is estimated at about 1600 tons. This mass was raised from the platform and floated to its site, by means of pontoons, or large flat-bottomed close barges, and with the aid of a flood-tide ; and then, by the power of enormous hydraidic rams, was elevated and settled upon the towers. The tubes are formed of malleable iron plates, varying in length from 12 feet downwards, in width from 28 inches to 21 inches, and in thickness from three-eighths to three-fourths of an inch. The direction in which the plates are laid is not arbitrary or immaterial, but is governed by the direction of the strain in the different parts. The height of the sides is not the same at all parts of their length. It is greatest at the centre, in the Britainiia tower, where it is 30 feet outside ; and it diminishes gradually towards the end, upon the abutments, where it is 22 feet 9 inches ; the line of the top forming a true parabolic curve, and the bottom being quite straight and hori- RAILWAY TUBULAR BRIDaB. 65 zontal. The internal width from side to side is 14 feet. In the sides the plates are 2 feet broad, and besides being riveted, they are strengthened and stiffened at tlie joints by slips of y iron, both inside and out, and reaching from top to bottom. The top of the tube consists of two separate horizontal plates, running parallel to each other, 1 foot 9 inches apart, forming together, as it were, a ceiling to the tube, and an external floor- ing on the top. These plates are three-quarters of an inch thick, riveted together in breadths of 2 feet 9 inches, and be- tween them run seven vertical plates longitudinally, from end to end of the bridge, separating the two horizontal plates of the roof, and at the same time uniting them strongly together by rivets and joints, each vertical plate having a rib of angle-iron on each angle, by which it is combined into one vast cellular mass, consisting of eight separate cells or tubes, 21 inches square. The object of this distribution of materials at the top is to give the nesessary strength and stiffness to that part which has to resist the force of compression. The bottom of the tube consists of a similar frame of cells of the same depth ; but, there being only 5 instead of 7 ver- tical plates, there are not 8 but only 6 separate lines of ceU or tube, and the width of each is, of course, proportionally greater, namely, 28 inches. Here the design is to resist the force of extension, which acts upon the bottom of the beam, and as experiments have demonstrated that the tendency to rupture by compression at the top is greater than by tension at the bottom, in the proportion of about 5 to 3, it was not necessary to construct the bottom or flooring of equal strength with the top or ceiling. Both the top and the bottom are riveted to the cells by angle-iron, running the whole length both inside and out ; and there are also triangular pieces of thick plate, technically called " gusset-pieces," to increase the strength of attachment, and especially to resist the cross or' twisting strain which may be occasioned by heavy and long- continued gales of wind. The rivets, averaging seven-eighths of an inch in diameter, and 4 inches in length, are placed in rows, at distances of 4 inches in the top and bottom, and 3 inches at the sides. They were driven into the plates in a red-hot state. Each of the large tubes contains 327,000 rivets, and the whole bridge up- wards of 2,000,000. The total weight of the tubes is nearly . V N 66 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 11,000 tons, being greater than that of four 120-gun ships, with all their stores and crew on board. The several spans of tube were originally curved on the top from 7 to 1 1 inches, according to their respective lengths, it having been calculated that by the elasticity and weight of the metal a deflection to that extent would be produced, and the result has proved the perfect accuracy of the calculation. Due provision is also made for the expansion and contraction occasioned by changes of temperature, one end being placed upon cast-iron rollers, and suspended at the top upon gun- metal balls, and thus rendered capable of a slight horizontal movement. The greatest variation in length hitherto noticed has been about two inches, under the extremes of summer and winter temperature. The first of the four larger or Britannia tubes was com- pleted on May 4, 1849 ; floated on June 20 ; deposited in ita permanent position on November 9. The second tube was floated December 4, in the same year, and deposited February 7, 1850. A single line of tube was opened for public traffic March 18. The third tube (or first of the second line) was floated June 10, and deposited July 12. The last tube was floated July 25, and deposited September 13. The second line of tube was opened for public traffic October 21, 1850. The total cost of the structure is officially stated at £621,865. The trains going northward invariably pass through one line of tube, those going southward through the other, and thus all danger of collision is prevented. When seen from such a distance as to conceal its magni- tude and mechanism, the bridge appears a very tame, unin- teresting object, and might be supposed to consist merely of huge wooden beams resting on stone piers. By closer inspec- tion, and from advantageous points of view, this impression will be greatly modified ; yet it will still be allowed that in picturesque eff'ect the Britannia Bridge is extremely deficient when compared with its beautiful neighbour the Suspension Bridge of Telford. These iron tubular bridges have now, for a consider- able time, been constantly traversed by the railway trains, without suffering the slightest apparent injury or altera- tion ; and during the passage of the heaviest trains no visible motion can be detected. The noise produced by a train in pass- THE ANGLESEY COLUMN, 67 rag, alttough peculiar, is not greater than that in an ordinaiy tunneL A little to the south of the Suspension Bridge, and between it and the Tubular one, is The Anglesey C/OLUMN, erected by pubKc subscription, in honour of Field-Marshal Henry William Paget, the distinguished cavalry officer whose high military talents and eminent success as leader of the Cavalry Brigade during the Peninsular war, and afterwards as the Com- mander of the combined cavalry forces at Waterloo, caused him to be regarded as one of the greatest heroes of the day, and procured for him the title of Marquis of Anglesey. The rocky eminence on which it stands, and which is close to the turnpike road, is called Craig-y-Binas. The height of the pillar being 91 feet, and the rock on which it stands being 170 feet above the level of the sea, it forms a conspicuous object throughout the neighbourhood. The first stone was laid on June 18, 1816, the first anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, and the column was completed in September 1817. It bears the following inscription : — The inhabitants of the counties of Anglesey and Carnarvon have erected this column in grateful commemoration of the distinguished military achieve- ments of their countryman, HENRY WILLIAM, MARQUIS OF ANGLESEY, the leader of the British cavalry in Spain throughout the arduous campaign of 1S07, and the second in command of the armies confederated against France at the memorable battle of Waterloo, on the 18th of June 1815. A bronze statue of the Marquis, in hussar costume, by the eminent sculptor Matthew Noble, was afterwards (1860) placed upon the colimm. Plas Newydd, the seat of this nobleman, is situated about 1^ miles S.W. from the Tubular Bridge. Tickets of admis- sion to tlie grounds can be obtained from the hotels at Beau- maris. A small charge is made, and the proceeds devoted to a local charity. The approach is through a park, agreeably diversified, which generally slopes towards the shore. The spacious mansion, backed by a dense wood of venerable oak, commands an extensive view of the picturesque strait, of the Suspension and Tubular Bridges, and of the Carnarvonshire mountains. Here the Marquis of Anglesey had tho honour as CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. of receiving King George IV. on liis way to Ireland in 1821. Her present Majesty, when Princess Victoria, accompanied by the Duchess of Kent, resided liere in the summer of 1832, for several weeks, including the time of holding the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris ; in the autumn of 1849, the Duke and Duchess of Caml)ridge made this their temporary residence ; and the Duchess again in 1850. At a short distance from the house are some remarkable relics of Druidic times ; indeed this appears to have been the site of one of the principal groves sacred to Druidic worship. There are two Crondechs contiguous to each other, one of which ranks with tlie largest and most complete now remain- ing. It consists of an inclined table-stone, measuring about 12 J feet in one direction, and 10 feet in the other, and aver- aging in thickness about 4 feet ; and this mass, calculated to weigh upwards of 30 tons, rests upon six upright stones of from 5 to 6 feet in height. Two other stones, originally aid- ing the support, have fallen, and still lie beneath. The smaller cromlech has a table-stone of about 7 feet by 5 feet, and in thickness 3 feet, resting upon four uprights. Near to these crondechs are the traces of a large carnedd, which covered a space of ground 142 yards in circumference, now nearly over- grown with grass. A part of the elevation having been cleared, discovery was made of a cell 7 feet long and 3 feet wide, covered by two flat stones, raised at one corner so as to admit of entrance. Within the enclosure of the park is Druid's Lodge, which was, till lately, the residence of J. Saunderson, Esq., a very pretty, attractive place, distinguished for comfort and elegance, and for its well-selected treasures of books, paintings, sculpture, fossils, etc. Beaumaris, Puffin Island, Amlwch, Parts Mountain, AND THE MeNAI StRAITS. BEAUMARIS. [Botels: Bulkeley Arms ; Liverpool Amis.] 6i miles from Bangor by bridge. Beaumaris may be reached either by ferry from Garth Point, near Bangor, or by way of the Suspension Bridge, and tlie road on the N.W. bank of the straits. The latter is re- BEAUMARIS. 69 commended, as including some very interesting scenery. The distance from the Anglesey end of the chain bridge is about 4-i- miles, by an excellent turnpike-road, which was formed at great cost by the late Lord BuLkeley. It is in no part at any great distance from the coast, and through its whole extent it has admirable views of marine and mountain scenery. A number of villas, with grounds extending to the water, are ■passed in succession, of which the following may be men- tioned: — Craig-y-don, Col. Williams, M.P. ; Glan Meiiai, Hugh Roberts, Esq. ; Glijn-y-Garih, Mrs. Schwabe ; and Rkianva, a splendid mansion, recently erected by the late Sir John Hay Williams, Bart, of Bodelwyddan, and now occupied by his widow. Lady Sarah Hay Williams. The to^\^l is well built, and finely situated on the bank of the Menai Strait, just where it opens into an extensive bay, which, for its various picturesque combinations, has few equals in the kingdom. The Church, formerly called " the Chauntry of our Lady of Beaumaris," contains several monuments worthy of atten- tion. Near to it is a Free School, founded in 1603 by David Hughes of Woodrising, Norfolk ; who also endowed alms- houses for six poor persons, to whom he granted annuities. Lord Bulkeley added four to the nimiber. They are situated about a mile from the town. Other public buildings are the Shire Hall, Town Hall, Assembly Room, National School, Bath House, and Custom House. Beaumaris has for many years been a resort for sea-bath- ing ; and it stiU attracts a great number of respectable families, for whose accommodation in hotels and lodging-houses, modern and spacious, ample pro\dsion is made. There are bathing- rooms for ladies and gentlemen, about 60 yards apart, up to which the tide comes at high water. The prospect from the terraces and promenades includes a portion of Menai Straits, enclosed by Puffin Isle and the promontory of Orme's Head ; a full view of the huge frowning front of Penmaen-mawr ; the pretty village of Aber, the city of Bangor, with Port Penrhyn and Penrhyn Castle ; w^hile the distance is bounded by the Carnarvonshire mountains, ridge above ridge, tiU. they termi- nate in the majestic Snowdon. It returns one member to parliament, in conjunction with Holyhead.. Auiiwch, and Llangefni. It is the nomination place 70 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. in the election for the county, and the Assizes are held here. In a commercial point of view, Beaumaris is not of great im- portance. A few sloops belong to the port, but they are chiefly employed in the coasting trade for other ports. Be- tween this place and Liverpool a steam-packet plies daily during the summer and autumn months, generally conveying large numbers of holiday-making and pleasure-seeking visitors. Population (1871), 2334. Omnibus to Bangor (crossing Menai Bridge) in the morning, returning in the afternoon ; and to the Menai station at the foot of the Suspension, to meet the principal trains. Beaumaris Castle stands within the grounds of Sir R. B. "W. Bulkeley, Bart. It covers a great extent of ground, but wants height to give it dignity ; and though massive and ponderous, it has not the imposing effect of other structures of the same age. There is an outer wall, with ten low Moorish towers, and an advanced work called the Gunner's "Walk. Within this wall is the main structure, in form nearly quad- rangular, with a large round tower at each angle. The area enclosed is an irregular octagon, about 57 yards from N. to S., and 60 from E. to W. It was built by Edward I. about the year 1295, some time after he had founded the castles of Car- narvon and Conway. He changed the name of this place from Bornovor to Beau-marais, a French term, corresponding with its pleasant situation in low ground. He formed around the castle a fosse which was filled from the sea, and cut a canal to enable vessels to discharge their lading beneath the walls. It was given by Henry IV., soon after his accession, to Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, for his life. In 1643, Thomas Bidkeley, soon afterwards raised to the peerage, was appointed constable of the castle. It was held for King Charles I. against the Parliament, but in 1646 surrendered to Gen. Mytton. By Charles II., Lord Bulkeley was reinstated as constable. It is now the property of Sir R. Bulkeley, who has laid out walks around the ruins, ornamented with planta- tions and shrubberies, to which the public have access. Baron Hill, close to the to-mi, is the charming seat of Sir Richard Bulkeley Williams Bulkeley, Bart. It is situated on an eminence, at the head of an extensive lawn, which gently slopes towards the town and castle, and is finely overshadowed with woods. The grounds are Liberally opened to the public. BARON HDjL. 71 Nant Farm, a channirig retreat of Lady Bulkeley's, is also open to the public three days in the week, and well worthy of a visit. In the vicinity of Baron Hill is Ilenllys Lodge, Captain Lewis. Also, Tre-yr-Castell, now occupied as a farm-house, an old castellated mansion, for centuries the residence of the descendants of Marchudd, lord of Uwch Dulas, in Den- bighshire ; and here too, in the thirteenth century, lived the renowned Sir Tudor-ab-Goronwy, in a style of magnificent hospitality. At a short distance, nearly concealed by woods, are the remains of a small castle, or fort, erected in 1198 by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester. This fort held out during the civil war, under Sir Thomas Cheadle, but in 1645 surrendered to Col. Robertson. At about 6 miles W., near to the village of Pentraeth, is Plas Gwyn, the mansion of Lord Vivian, who acquired this fine property by marriage with Miss Panton, heiress of the late Jones Panton, Esq. Many rare shells may be found on the sands of Pentraeth. At little more than a mile from Beaumaris are the poor remains of a house of Franciscan Friars, founded by Llewelyn-ap-Jorwerth, Prince of North "Wales, about 1237, called Llanfaes, or the Friars. The remaining fragments are now included in the walls of a barn. Here was interred the Princess Joan, wife of Llewelyn, of whom mention is made in the notice of Aber, at page 50. The remains of her stone coffin have been removed to Baron Hill. Near Llanfaes, in this neighbourhood, a severe battle was fought in the year 819, between the Welsh and the Saxons headed by Egbert, who had invaded the island, and who then gave it its present name, Anglesey. The Saxons were for the time victorious, but soon afterwards they were forcibly ex- pelled from the island. Two miles N. of the Friars, in the quiet glen of Penmon, are the ruins of a Priory, which was a Benedictine establish- ment, dedicated to St. Mary, and endowed, if not founded, by the same Prince Llewelyn above mentioned. In the immediate vicinity is a holy well ; a small temple is raised over it, and a square space, inclosed by a wall, paved and seated, forms a vestibule. Near the coast at Penmon Point, are the quarries of Angle- Bey marble, which were opened to procure the large quanti- 72 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. ties of stone used in the erection of the Britannia Tubular Bridge. Puffin Island, or Priestholm, anciently called Ynys Seiriol, affords a favourite excursion by boat from Beaumaris, or from Bangor. It is of oval shape, about half-a-mile in length, and not more than three-quarters of a mile from the shore at Penmon. Seiriol, a holy recluse in the sixth century, erected his cell here, no part of which remains. Near the centre of the island is an old square tower, supposed to be the relic of a religious house, subordinate to the priory of Penmon. The surface of the island consists of fine turf. There are upon it a few sheep, and a numerous colony of rabbits. The coast on three sides is precipitous, and scarcely accessible, and the remainder is a steep bank. During the summer, the whole island swarms with various birds of passage — peregrine falcons, cormorants, razor-bills, guillemots, stormy petrels, divers, cur- lews, gulls, etc. ; and from the beginning of April to near the middle of August it is the resort of an immense number of the Alca arciica, or puffin-auk. Coming hither to breed, parts of the island appear at times to be almost covered with them. They form burrows in the earth, and deposit in each cavity one white egg, which is generally hatched in July. They have many peculiarities of habit, which render them highly interesting to the naturalist. Their food being small fishes and sea-weeds, the flesh is rank, but the young birds, when pickled and spiced, are by some persons esteemed a delicacy. A melancholy interest attaches to this island, from the distressing loss of the Rothesay Castle steamer on its passage from Liverpool, in the night of August 17, 1831. The vessel struck on what is called the Dutchman's Bank, ojjposite to Puffin Island, quickly went to pieces, and more than one hundred persons perished. Since this calamitous event a lighthouse has been erected on the S.W. point of the island. It is an admirable work in the bell form, and has more courses of masonry under low-water mark than the celebrated Eddy- stone lighthouse. From either Beaumaris or Bangor a most agreeable aquatic excursion may be made along the Menai Straits to and from Carnarvon. If the hours of the ordinary steam-packets are not convenient, other boats may be easily procured. The BANGOR TO HOLYHEAD. 73 passage will afford novel and favourable views of the marine and mountain scenery^ and opjiortunities, in passing beneath the SusiJension and Tubular bridges, of beholding their stupendous magnitude " to the greatest advantage. On the banks of the Strait the following gentlemen's seats will be observed, in addition to those already mentioned : On the Anglesey side, in going westward, Cadnant, John Price, Esq., on an elevated site near to Menai Bridge ; Plas Llanfair, between Britannia Bridge and Plas Neioydd (Marquis of Anglesey) ; Plas Guynne ; Maes-y-Porth, J. Boult, Esq. ; Plas Coch, WilUam Bulkeley Hughes, M.P. ; Bi-yn Llwyd, Capt. Thorndike ; Llanidan, Lord Boston ; and Talywynedd, Rev. G. Jeffrey's ; and on the Carnarvonshii-e side, in the return. Cat Cinnamon, Mrs. Watkins ; Cae, Gu^yn, Thos. Finchett Madock, Esq. ; Llanfair, J. G. Griffith, Esq. ; Vaenol, G. Duff, Esq. ; Belmont, Gaskell, Esq. ; Gorphwysfa, J. Behrens, Esq. ; and Tanyr-Allt, the Misses Ellis. BANGOR TO HOLYHEAD. The course of the railway through Anglesey is not parti- cularly interesting. On emerging from the tube, there may be observed near the coast a small obelisk erected by the workmen employed at the Tubular Bridge to the memory of their associates whose lives were lost by fatal casualties during the progress of the work. On the left is Plas Newydd, the seat of the Marquis of Anglesey, now occupied by the Dowager Lady Willoughby-de-Broke, and on the right the Anglesey Column already noticed (page 6 7) . For a few miles the rail- way runs parallel with the turnpike road, and at Gaerwen station the Anglesey Central branch diverges northwards by Llangefni to Amlwch. Llangefni is a small market-town, situated in a fertile vale, on the river Cefni. Population, 1696. A paved road, believed to be Roman, may be traced for two miles in. the vicinity. At the distance of a mile is Ti-egarnedd, now a poor farm- house, formerly the fortified abode of Ednyfed Fychan, a valiant adherent and able counsellor of Llewelyn the Great. The intrenchment surrounds 5 acres. This was the birthplace of Sir Grj'ffydd Llwyd, who first carried to Edward I., then at 74 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. Rbuddlan, the intelligence of the birth of his son at Carnarvon ; on which occasion he was knighted. Not far distant is Mae7i Rh6s Rhyfel, where Owen Gwynedd obtained a signal victory over the united army of Erse, Manksmen, and Normans ; to which the poet Gray alludes in a fragment beginning thus : — " Owen's praise demands my song, Owen swift, and Owen strong, Fairest flower of Roderick's stem, Gwynetli's shield and Britain's gem." About two miles to the north-east of Llangefni is Plas Penmynydd, worthy of notice as having belonged to the ancestors of the royal house of Tudor. Here resided Owen Tudor, who was born in 1385, while his parents were in exile. He married Catherine of France, the widow of Henry v., and by her had three sons and one daughter. One of his sons was the father of Henry Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII., king of England ; and thus, Owen Tudor was the progenitor of a long and illustrious line of kings and queens, and from him our beloved sovereign is a descendant* Queen Victoria contributed £50 towards the restoration of the Tudor Chapel, which contains the splendid Tudor tomb, an altar-tomb of the fourteenth century, with a recumbent knight and lady, of pure alabaster, and of most beautiful design. The feet rest upon Lions, the heads are supported by angels. Amlwch is on the extreme N. coast of Anglesey, and dis- tant from Beaumaris about 17 miles. The name is formed * Some amusing circumstances are narrated in connection with Owen Tudor's elevation. He appears to have been introduced at court as " an accomplished and handgome Welsh gentleman," and there he seems to have gained the favour of Catharine by a combination of agility and awkward- ness ; for, while dancing before her, he stumbled, and, unable to recover himself, fell into her lap, as she sat surrounded by her ladies. Catharine quickly resolved to make him her husband. The union being considered beneath her dignity, a deputation of English lords was sent to Anglesey to learn the condition of his mother and the style of her living. At their unexpected arrival the matron was discovered, sitting on a bank in a field, surrounded by her goats, and eating a dried herring upon her knees. The lords, well knowing that Catharine's choice was determined, did not deem it good policy to relate the case exactly as truth required, but made the following report: — "The lady (they said) was found seated in state, surrounded by her javelin men, in a spacious palace, and eating her repast from a tab'e of such great value that sh« would not take hundreds of pounds for it." PARTS MOUNTAIN, 75 of am, about, and llwch, a sandy beach, and fitly enough describes this locality. In 1766 it was a village, or hamlet, consisting of only six houses, but as the mining operations on the high table-land of Twrcelyn, or Parys moiintain, increased, this place gradually extended and became an important mar- ket-tovvn. The Church is a spacious and handsome structure, erected by the Parys Mine Company at the expense of ^4000. Amlwch is a borough, contributory to Beaumaris in electing one M.P. The population of the parish, which in 1831 amounted to 6285, was reduced in 1861 to 5949 ; this de- clension being ascribed to a scarcity of ore in the copper-mines, and the consequent diminution of employment. Labourers, who removed hence, readily found occupation in railway and harbour works at Holyhead. Two mUes south of Amlwch is the famous Parts Moun- tain, probably so named from a Robert Parys, Chamberlain of North Wales in the reign of Henry IV. The aspect of the mountain, rising into enormous rocks of coarse aluminous shale and whitish quartz, is that of rugged grandeur. It ia generally believed that the Romans obtained copper-ore here, for vestiges of mining operations are said to have been dis- covered, and some very ancient stone utensils have at different times been turned up. From the time of the Romans till the year 1761, these mines seem to have been entirely neglected. At that period, at the suggestion of a Scotch miner named Frazer, Sir Nicholas Bayley, the proprietor, was induced to sink shafts and seek for ore ; but the work was soon stopped by an irruption of water. Two years afterwards Messrs. Roe and Co. of Macclesfield took from Sir Nicholas (who was father of the first Lord Uxbridge, and grandfather of the first Mar- quis of Anglesey) a lease of the mines, which expired in 1792. Their operations were for some time carried on amidst disap- pointment and discouragement ; but on March 2, 1768, their agent discovered ore of almost pure copper, within two yards of the surface, which proved to be that vast bed, for many years wrought to such amazing advantage. The 2d of March has ever since been observed as a day of festival. The Rev. Edward Hughes, father of the late Lord Dinorben, who was proprietor of another part of the mountainous ridge, proved equally successful. For a long time the annual product of those mines was enormous, and the revenue they yielded was 76 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. immense. During recent years the operations have not been carriud on Avith the same energy and success as formerly, yet the mines are still of great value, and there can be no doubt that a vast amount of mineral treasure is still beneath the surface. Besides copper, the mines have yielded at different times, in various proportions, lead, with a mixture of silver, zinc, alum, and sulphur. The mine on the E. side of the mountain, called the Mona Mine, is the property of the Marquis of Anglesey. The Parys Mine is the joint property of the ]\Iar- quis and of the representatives of the late Lord Dinorben. Another valuable product of the same neighbourhood is the Serpentine or Mona marble, known b}^ the appellation of Verdantique. It is quarried chiefly in the parish of Llan- fechelL Eeturning to the Holyhead line, after leaving Gearwen the railway passes through a district abounding with Druidical remains, and approaching the coast traverses the sandy marsh of Llalltraeth. A viaduct of 19 arches carries it over the tidal river Cefni. At about 2 1 miles S. are the remains of the once import- ant town, Newborough, the British name of which was Rhos-Hir. At a remote peiiod it was one of the residences of the British princes, the seat of justice, and the capital of Anglesey. Edward I. conferred upon it a charter of incor- poration, and peculiar privileges, Avhich were subsequently confirmed by Edward III. At the time of receiving this charter it took its present name. It has gradually declined, and is now an insignificant village ; its scanty population struggling to obtain subsistence by manufacturing mats, nets, and ropes from sea-reed grass. It gives the title of Baron to a branch of the Wynn family. On the W. side of Malltraeth Bay are Bodowen, an ancient mansion of the Owen family, now the property of Augustus Fuller MejTick, Esq. ; and Bodorfjan, the elegant residence of that gentleman, to which are attached an extensive park and beautiful gardens. Kear the Bodorgan station may be seen, on the left hand, all that remains of the ancient royal town of Aberffraw, which was one of the three places selected by Eoderic the Great, about the year 870, for the residence of his three sons, to whom he left his dominions. It long continued a chief seat of the native princes, and one of the three courts of jus- HOLYHEAD. 77 tice for the principality. It is now reduced to a few small houses, retaining no vestige of its former importance, except- ing that in the wall of a barn, which is said to stand on the site of the palace, tliere are some stones, whicli, by their better workmanship, give some sanction to the prevailing belief that they really formed part of the original building. There is a comfortable inn, the Prince Llewelyn, for anglers, seeking sport in the neighbouring lake Llyn Coron. From Aberft'raw the railway passes for several miles along an uninteresting level, and over a bleak sandy common, re- lieved by a view of Cymmeran bay, and the headland of Rhoscolyn. It then re-approaches the line of the turnpike road, along with which it passes over the Stanley embankment; and, leaving on the right hand Penrhos Park, has its termina- tion at HOLYHEAD. [Hotels : The Royal ; Marine ; Castle ; etc.] This market-town and parliamentary borou,L:h is situated at the W. extremity of Anglesea, upon an island, or, more properly, a peninsula which at high water becomes insu- lated. Its modern importance has been the result of its convenience as a place of embarkation for Ireland. It is the point of termination to the great parliamentary roads from London and from Chester ; and to the Chester and Holyhead Railway, with the mail and express trains of which are con- nected steam-packets for Kingstown, near Dublin, leaving the harbour twice every day. The vast amount of labour em- ployed, and money expended on public works (estimated at ;£1, 500,000), has materially contributed to attract and support an active and tliriving population. The works, which consist of harbour and embankment, were planned by the late J. Meadows Rendel, C.E. They were commenced December 1847, and, under the superintendence of Sir John Hawkshaw, C.E., completed in August 1873.' The harbour is 267 acres in extent, while the roadstead outside occtipies an addi- tional space of 400 acres of deep water. Across the shallow, sandy channel which naturally divides Holyhead from the mainland, the vast embankment above reffiredto has been formed, measuring 7860 feet (nearly l|^ mile) in length, with an average height of 1 6 feet. A bridge 78 HOLYHEAD. has been formed near the centre, through whicli the tide rushe? with amazing velocity ami force. The British name is Caer Gyhi — i.e. the fort of Gybi. Gybi appears to have been a British saint, who, after visiting Gaul, and distinguishing himself by refuting heretics, returned to his native land, and here, in pious retirement, closed his days. The church, occupying the elevated site of an ancient monastery, is dedicated to St. Gybi, and in the S. porch is a rude figure of the patron saint, under a canopy. The churchyard is sur- rounded by a wall, 6 feet thick, of Roman construction. The pier extends nearly 1000 feet. Upon this is an arch of Mona marble, commemorative of the visit of George IV. in 1821, bearing an appropriate inscription in Latin and Welsh. At the extremity of the pier is a lighthouse, exhibiting a white light, 50 feet above the level of the sea. On an isolated rock, 3 miles W., called the South Stack, is another lighthouse connected with the harbour, and of essential service in facilitating the access. The light is produced by 21 lamps with powerful reflectors, at an elevation of 212 feet above high-water mark.* The rock scenery about Holyhead is uncommonly grand and romantic. The promontory of the Head is an immense precipi- tous rock, hollowed into caverns, and afi'ording shelter to innu- merable sea-birds, curlews, guUs, razorbills, guillemots, cormo- rants, and herons ; and on the loftiest crags lurks the peregrine falcon, the bird so high in repute when falconry was a fashion- able sport. The eggs of many of these birds are esteemed a delicacy, and, until the dangerous practice was prohibited, men were employed in collecting them, descending over the summit of the rocks, with a rope tied round the body and fastened to a stake. From the summit of Pen-Caer-Gybi, or the mountain of Holyhead, 700 feet in height, a good view is obtained of the town and harbour, with all the irregularities of the rugged weather-beaten rocks on this iron-bound coast. On the sides of the mountain are traces of extensive British fortification, and at the top are remains of a circidar building, 10 feet in diameter, which was probably a Roman watch-tower. On the rocks S. of the harbour is an obelisk, erected by public subscription, in memory of Captain Skinner, for many * In Blackwood's Magazine, February 1831, is a very interesting article on the Soutli Stack Lighthouse, attributed to the pen of the late Dr. Edward Stanley, Bishop of Norwich. ANGLESEY. 79 years well known and tiglily esteemed as commander of a post-office packet, who lost his life, in 1833, by being washed overboard, along with one of his crew to whom he was speaking. Near to Holyhead is Penrhos, a handsome modem mansion, surrounded by wood, the residence of the Hon. William Owen Stanley, M.P. Holyhead has an assembly-room and baths. The market is held on Saturday. Population, 6193. The borough is con- tributory to Beaumaris in returning one member to parlia- ment. The transit between London and Dublin, by way of Holy- head, is now effected in 11 J hours. This is accomplished by taking express mail train &om London to Holyhead, thence per steam-packet to Kingstown. ANGLESEY. This island county is surrounded by the Irish Sea, except on the S.E., on which side, as we have seen, it is separated from the mainland by the Straits of Menai. It measures, from E. to W., about 28 miles, and from N. to S. about 20 miles. Its early British name was M6n (which signifies remote, detached, or insulated), and hence the Romans called it Mona. It was not unfrequently described as M6ii mam-Gymru — i.e. Mona, the nursing-mother of Wales, in allusion either to its former fertility, or to its being the residence of the Druids, whom the Britons esteemed the parents of science and the guardians of society. By the Saxons it was designated Angle's Ey, which is Englishman's Isle; and by this name, Anglesey, it has been ever since dis- tinguished. It is well knovni that, at a very early period, this island was the chosen retreat and asylum of the British priests, called Druids. Hither they retired, and here for a considerable time they were sheltered from the persecution of Roman invaders. In the year 61, Suetonius Paulinus, having overcome the Ordovices who inhabited the adjacent country, resolved to pass over into Mona, and to extirpate the Druids. But before he had effected his purpose, tidings of insurrection elsewhere obliged him to withdraw. For nearly twenty years 80 ANGLESEY. a respite was enjoyed, and then the island was again attacked, and totally reduced hy Julius Agricola in the year 78. After the Roman power was withdrawn, the natives resumed their original form of government. In 444, Caswallon, prince of Cambria, made choice of Mona for his residence, and being the eldest of the British princes, he received homage from the rest. In this island the princes of North Wales continued to reside, until the reign of Lleweljni, the last prince. Their palace was at Abertfraw. In the 10th century the incur- sions of Danes and Saxons were vigorously withstood ; but Egbert, who united the Saxon Heptarchy into one government under the name of England, obtained a decisive victory over the Welsh at Llanfaes, near Beaumaris, and established his power in the island. British ascendency was again recovered, and Anglesey became the scene of many struggles and con- flicts, attended by various results, until it was subjugated by Edward I. in the year 1277. By Henry VIII. it was in- corporated with England, and made a county. The climate of the island is temperate, but liable to fogs ; and the surface has, in most parts, a bare unin^dting aspect. It was called by the bards " the shady island" because it formerly abounded with groves and trees, but there is now little wood, except along the bank of the Menai. The county is distinguished for a peculiar breed of sheep, the largest native breed in North Wales. The rearing of horned cattle is much attended to, vast numbers being ex- ported. There is also a considerable trade in butter, cheese, hides, tallow, wax, and honey, but scarcely any manufactures. The mineral productions are various, and of great importance. Parys mountain, already alluded to, has yielded immense quantities of copper-ore, and some silver, though not now nearly so productive. Marble is found in great variety, and of a quality highly esteemed throughout Great Britain. Some asbestine marble has been discovered ; granite occurs near the centre of the island ; it produces also lead, fuller's earth, potter's clay, magnesia, and sulphur ; and some coal-seams have been WTOught in different parts. All kinds of sea-fish abound, particularly shell-fish, including some kinds not common elsewliere. The county gives the title of Marquis to the head of the Paget family. It contains five market-towns — viz. Ajulwch. CARNARVONSHIRE. 81 Beaumaris, Llangefni, Llanerchymedd, and Holyhead. The population is 50,919. One M.P. is elected by the county, and one by the united boroughs of Beaumaris, Amlwch, Holyhead, and Llangefni. There are no rivers navigable, or of much importance, yet the island is well watered by numerous small streams, of which the principal are the Cefni, the Alan, the Ffraw, and the Dulas. As might be anticipated, Anglesey is rich in Celtic antiquities, and in. memorials of Druidical usages : "Here Cambria opes her tome of other days, And with maternal pride the page displays ; Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace, From Britain's genuine kings, her noblest race." CARNARVONSHIRE. Carnarvonshire is the most elevated and mountainous division of North Wales. Its central part is entirely occu- pied by the famed Snowdon, and the rugged summits, deep hollows, moors, and lakes, by which that majestic mountain is surrounded. There are, however, some limited tracts of comparatively level and fertile land ; particularly the Vale of Conway, which occupies the whole of the eastern border. A detached portion, interposed in Denbighshire, and situated at the coast, is traversed by the railway between Abergele and Conway ; and another portion at the N.E. of the river Conway, called Creuddin-yn-Rhos, constitutes the promontory terminated by the Great Orme's Head. The main portion of the county is entered at Conway. It is bounded on the E. by Denbighshire, and on part of the S. by Merion- ethshire. The Menai Strait separates it on the N.W. from Anglesey. On every other part it is contiguous to the sea. Its figure is irregular, a great wedge-like projection extending far to the S.W. From the extremity of this point to the N.E. boundary it measures about 52 miles, and in breadth it varies from 5 to 20 mUes. The county possesses a source of occupation and wealth in its minerals, especially in its exhaustless stores of slate of the first quality. There are also quarries of a valuable stone, forming excellent hones for the shaipeiiing of edge-tools ; G N 82 CARXARVONSHIRE. and zinc, lead, and cojiper, are found, though not to a very great extent. Carnai'vonshire was anciently included in the country di the Ordovices, and after their partial reduction by the Roman power, it formed a part of Venedotia, and received the desig- nation of Arfon, which is still much used by the natives. The Romans having a foilified station at the site where the county town now stands, the word Caer was prefixed, first to the town, and thence to the district, which thus becomes Caer-yn-Arfon, and, by gradual sliglit alteration, Carnarvon. At the partition of the principality by Roderic, it was included in the territory called Gwynedd ; while by the English, prior to the settlement of the present division of counties, it was termed Snowdon Forest. Owing to its natural defences, this district was the chief stronghold of the Britons, from the earliest j^eriod of their history do\\Ti to the time of Edward I. of England ; and in the protracted eflbrts of Romans, Saxons, Kormans, and English, for the subjugation of Wales, it was the scene of continued and desperate vi-arfare. The river Conway, which has its sources within the county, and forms for a considerable distance the boundary between it and Denbighshire, is the principal river, having as its tribu- taries the Machuo, the Lleder, and the Llugwy. The Seoint descends from the side of Snowdon, forms the lakes of Llan- berLs, and falls into the ]\Ienai at Carnarvon. The Ogvven flows from Llyn Ogwen and other lakes, waters Nant Frangon, and has its outlet near Bangor ; and besides these, there are several inferior streams and numerous lakes. A peculiar breed of black cattle, smaller than those of Anglesey, is reared for English markets ; the sheep, also, finding their pasture on the hills, are small, and their wool is coarse and of short stajjle. Goats are reared, though not in such numbers as formerlj^ The construction of the great parliamentary roads through the wUd tracts of the country, the more recent formation of railways, and especially the erection of the suspension and the tubular bridges at Conway and Bangor, facilitating commu- nication with all parts of the United Kingdom, have largely promoted the prosperity of the whole district, and afford the prospect of yet more fully developing its resources. Among its antiquities may be mentioned Druidical circles CARNARVON. 83 and cromleclis in various parts ; Roman roads and forts clearly indicated ; the Welsh castles of Criccietb, Dolbadarn, and Dolwyddelan ; and the stately structures of Carnarvon and Conway castles, built by Edward I. Carnarvonshire is thoroughly Welsh, the native language being everywhere spoken, and primitive customs to a great extent preserved. Population, 106,122. Parliamentary re- presentation, one M.P. for the county, and one for the town of Carnarvon with its contributory boroughs, Bangor, Conway, Criccieth, Pwllheli, and Neviu. CARNARVON. [Hotels: Royal Sportsman ; Uxbridge, close to the Station ; Castle ; Queen's.] The extent and relative importance of this town, its mag- nificent castle, its numerous antiquarian and historical assso- ciations, and the convenience of its situation within a short distance of much of the grandest scenery of North Wales, entitle it to much attention from the tourist. It is situated on the S.E. side of the Menai Strait, at the mouth of the river Seoint. The origin of the name is easily discerned : Caer-yn- Arfon — i.e. the city or furt of Arfon (pronounced Arvon), that being the a2:)pellation of the adjacent district. The town, with its castle and walls, was built by Edward I. about the year 1283, as a place of strength to secure his newly-acquired con- (juest of Wales. The walls, which formerly enclosed the whole town, are still nearly entire ; but the town has extended greatly Ijeyond their limits. They are flanked with round towers, and liad originally two principal gates, others having been added at different times, as convenience required. Within the walls, the streets, though narrow, are regular, and in the more modern parts of the town beyond the walls, streets more .spacious, and residences of a superior class, have been erected to an extent more than double ; and the whole town, well supplied with water and lighted with gas, has undergone great improvement. Pennant, a Welshman, says of it, " Carnarvon is justly the boast of North Wales, for the beauty of its situ- ation, the goodness of its buildings, the regularity of its plan, and, above all, the grandeur of the castle, that most magnificent badge of our subjection." Carnarvon is in the parish of 84 CARNARVON. HanleUig, the churdi being more than hdf-a-mile distant .■. within the town, however, is a handsome cliapel of ease, St. Mary's, in whicli the services are conducted in the English hmguage. A new handsome church has been erected near the railway station, and cost £8000. The Dissenting chapels are large and numerous, tlie attendants here, as in most jxirts of Wales, bearing a far higher proportion to the adherents of the Established Church tlian is common in the English counties. The Town Hall is over one of the ancient gateways, and one of the old towers is fitted up as a lock-up. There are also a new County Hall, a modern Market-house, a large union Poor- house, National and British Schools, and in connection with the National School a Training Institution for the supply o\ efficient teachers. Outside the walls is a fine terrace- walk along the Meirni, an attractive resort in fair weather. At the N. end of this terrace is a pier of considerable extent. The Custom-house is at the bottom of High Street. The harbour, of late much enlarged and improved, is frequented by vessels-; of from 50 to 400 tons burden. The principal exports are slates and copper-ore, the former being brought down from the quarries of Llanberis and Llanllyfni, a distance of 9 or 10 miles, by the Nantle Horse Railway, now also used for the conveyance of passengers to the lakes. The copper-ore is sent chiefly to Swansea, in South Wales. The coasting trade is carried on with London, Dublin, Bristol, Glasgow, Cork, and Liverpool ; with which last-named port there is regular com- munication by steam-packets. Carnarvon received from Edward I. a royal charter, the first which was granted in the principality. It bore date September 8, 1286, and conferred many privileges. From a rocky eminence called Twt-hill, behind the Ux- bridge Arms Hotel, a good view is obtained of the town and castle, the Menai Straits, Anglesey with the Holyhead and Barys mountains, the three peaks of the Eifl ridge in the pro- montory of Lleyn, the group of mountains surrounding Snow- don, and on a clear day the distant heights of Wicklow in Ireland. The " Fairy," a comfortable steamer, plies daily between Carnarvon and Menai Bridge, in connection with the Liverpool steamers. It also makes frequent trips during Slimmer to Beaumaris, Llandudno, round Anglesey, etc. A steam ferrj'-boat plies between the quay and Tal-y-Foel, on CARNARVOX CASTLE, 85 the Anglesey coast ; and pleasure-boats may be hired for visit- ing the romantic and sublime scenery on the western coast of Carnarvonshire and Anglesey. The assizes and quarter-sessions for the county are held here. The market on Saturdays is attended by a vast concourse of the country peoi:)le. Fairs are held four times annually. The population of the parish of Llanbeblig, which includes the town of Carnarvon, is 9937 ; that of the parliamentary borough (1871) is 9370. Carnarvon Castle is one of the noblest and most magni- ficent ruins of its kind in the empire, and externally it is still entire. It occupies a strong position at the W. end of the town, and before the use of cannon must have been impreg- nable. The walls, which enclose an area of about 3 acres, are 7 feet 9 inches thick, have within them a gallery, with slips for the discharge of missiles, and are flanked by 13 strong towers, all angular, but difi'ering in the number of their sides. The entrance is very imposing, beneath a vast square tower of prodigious strength, having grooves for four portcullises. In the front appears a mutilated statue of the founder, with his hand upon a half-drawn, sword, as if either menacing his newly-acquired subjects, or sheathing the weapon to indicate the termination of the war. The towers are all admirable ; that distinguished as the Eagle Tower is decidedly the finest, more lofty and more substantial than the rest, and having the addition of three angular turrets rising above the roof, formerly surmounted and adorned by sculptured eagles, of which shapeless fragments alone remain. This tower may be ascended without difliculty by 158 stone steps ; and the summit, while commanding a wide prospect of surrounding scenery, aff'ords a bird's-eye view of the castle itself, rendering more distinct and vivid the impression of the vastness, the stability, and the admirable proportions, of this venerable pile. In the lower part of this tower, a narrow dark room, measuring about 1 2 feet by 8 feet, is pointed out as the birth- place of Edward II., the first Saxon Prince of Wales. In this matter, however, tradition is contradicted by known facts, it being demonstrable that though the birth of the prince occurred at Carnarvon, and probably in that part of the castle which was first erected, by no possibility could he have been born within the Eagle Tower, since the erection of it was not then commenced ; but it was finished under his own directions 86 OARNAUVON CASTLE. after he had become king of England. In one of the towers William Prynne, a barrister in the time of Charles I., was imprisoned for his religious opinions. In 1637, having pre- viousiy endured cruel persecution, he was sentenced by the Court of Star Chamber to pay a fine of .£5000, to lose the remainder of his ears, to be branded on both cheeks, and to be imprisoned in this castle for life. The former parts of this barbarous sentence were executed, but, after a short confine- ment, he was restored to liberty, and he held a seat in the House of Commons until his death. The architect employed by Edward I. was Henri de Elreton. The work was com- menced in 1283, and a part of it must have been very rapidly executed, as Queen Eleanor gave birth to her infant in April 1284. The popular belief that the whole was completed Anthin two years is, however, erroneous. It certainly occupied a much longer time, and there is suflBcient reason to conclude that it was protracted through not less than 38 years. To what extent the walls and towers were erected previous to the insurrection of Madoc in 1295 is uncertain ; and how far the castle was injured at that time is not on record ; but it is known that, a short time afterwards, an order was given to the mayor of Chester to send men to repair the damage. In 1402 Owen Glyndwr, who had succeeded in taking possession of some of the Welsh castles, made an attempt on Carnarvon, in which he was defeated. During the wars of the Roses, the fortress repeatedly changed masters. In 1644, the garrison having been reduced, Oliver Cromwell's forces obtained easy possession of the town and castle, took 400 prisoners, and enriched themselves with much spoiL Soon afterwards the Royalists, under Lord Byron, invested Carnarvon, and the castle fell into their power ; but in 1646 it again surrendered to the army of the Parliament. In 1660 an order was issued to dismantle and demolish the castle, but the execution of the warrant was, in some unaccountable manner, partially evaded. The original document is in the possession of Sir R. W. Bulkeley, Bart., of Baron Hill. The property is now vested in the crown. The present constable is the Earl of Carnarvon, and the deputy-constable John Morgan, Esq. Near the steep bank of the river Seoint, at a short distance from the castle, is an ancient Roman fort, the walls of which are still in good preservation ; and not far from this, between CARNARVON TO PWLLUKLI. 87 the town and Llanbeblig clmrcli, is the site of the Roman station Segontidm, whence it is most probable Edward I. derived part of the materials for building the town and castle of Carnarvon. There are now some vestiges of walls, and a portion of a building constructed of tiles, covered with hard and smooth mortar. Relics of various descriptions have at different times been discovered, and the researches of archseo- logists have succeeded in tracing the outline of an extensive range of structures. It was undoubtedly a principal station of the Romans, having, as there is reason to believe, been pre- viously occupied and fortified by the native Britons. It stood on an eminence, with a slope on every side, and formed an irregular oblong which covered at least six acres of ground. Tlie museum of the Natural History Society, in High Street, Carnarvon, contains many of the relics found here. After the retirement of the Romans, the fortress was under the control of the British princes. About the year 620, Anglesey being infested by the Irish and Pictish rovers, Cadwallon removed his court from Aberffraw to Segontium, and for a long time the royal residence remained here. Other Roman encamp- ments, or outposts,, in this county, communicated with Segon- tium by a raised military road, of which traces in various parts may still be discerned. CARNARVON TO PWLLHELI. By Railway, 1 hoiu\ The course of this railway lies almost in a direct southerly line from Carnarvon, and takes advantage of the valley be- tween the Snowdon range on the east and the Eifl mountains on the west. The distance is 2 1 miles, and the stations are as follow : — Carnarvon, Llanwnda, Groeslon, Penygroes, Pant CUas, Brynkir, Ynys, Chwilog, and Afon Wen Junction. The following is a chart of the old coast-road between the %),me places. 88 CARNARVON TO PWLLHELI. By the Coast Road. 1 ON RinuT FEOM CABiNAllVON. il 20 CARNARVON. ■^ cr. the river Seuint. d 1 ON LEFT FEOM CABNABVOH Coed Helen, R. T. Thomas, Esq. Bryn Seoint, Capt. Heyward. Cefn-y-Coea, David Jones, Esq. 18i U Tyddyn Elan. Glan Beuno, J. Wil- liams, Esq. Dinas, Mrs. Robert.s. Cefn, Mrs. Richards. 17J Llanwnda. 2| 17 3 To Tremadoc, 1 6 m. Bryn Rhvdyn, H. Wesley, Esq. IGi 3| Dinas Dinlle, and Ro- man Road. 15 Llandwrog. 5 Bodfan, D. Jones, Esq. About 2 m. seaward, may be seen at low- water tlie ruins of Caerarianrliod, a sub- merged town. 12| -f^ or. the river Llifon. ^S cr. the riv. Llyfni. 5^ 74 Glynllifon Park, Lord Newborough. Craig-y-Dinas, a Ro- man encampment in good preservation, measuring 350 ft. from N. to S, and 204 ft. from E to W. Cromlech, and Beuno's WeU. 11* Aberdusoch. Clynnog-fawr. ^ 9i Cromlech, and another encampment, on Y Foel. ^ Aberafon. 10^ 8 Leave the coast, and turn on the left, South- ward. 12 Yr Eifl, or the Rivals. 6i Llanaelhaiam. 13i 6 Pont-y-gydros. 16 Glasftyn. Trallwjn, John Lloyd, Esq. i 16 Castell Gwgan. Pont-y-rhyd-goch. To Nevin, 8 m. ^ Four Crosses. m To Criccieth, 7 m- 2 18 Cromlech. .Yoke House, Picton 1 Jones, Esq. 1 PWLLHELI. 19 20 To Abererch, 1 m. GLYNLLIFON PARK EIFL MOUNTAINS. 89 About 5|- miles to the south of Carnarvon, following either the route by railway or road, is Gltnllifon Park, the seat of Lord Newborougb, which occupies the site of the stronghold of Cilrain-Troed-da, or Cilinin with the black foot, one of the ancestors of the fifteen royal tribes of North Wales. The park is extensive, its yjlantations skirting the road for nearly two miles. It is watered by the pretty, brawling river Llifon, which rises in the Cilgwyn mountains, and has its outlet at the adjacent coast. Following the coast road again, we pass near to Dinas DiNLLE, the remains of a strong circular fort. This was the point of junction between two lines of fort, stretching N. and S. It is on the verge of a marsh, and at high tides is Avashed by the sea. Further south, on the coast, is Cltnnog-Fawr, a hamlet partially concealed by the rich foliage of surrounding trees, and celebrated for its elegant Gothic church, the most beautiful ecclesiastical structure in North Wales. It contains some most interesting monuments, and is intimately associated with memorable portions of ancient British history. It has a vaulted passage leading to what remains of the monastery and chapel of St. Beuno, the imcle of the sainted virgin of Winefred's AVell. The chest of tliis wonder-working saint, with an opening to admit the votive offerings of devotees, is carefully preserved in the church, altliough no such offerings are now presented at the shrine of the saint. The chest is made of a solid piece of oak, secured by three locks, and is thought so strong as to have originated the proverb respecting an impracticable under- taking, " You may as well try to break St.Beuno's chest." The holy well, dedicated to this saint, is enclosed by a square wall at the road-side, about a quarter of a mile from the church. In the neighbourhood of the village, towards the sea, is a re- markable cromlech, and amongst the adjacent mountains is the waterfall of Dibhin Mawr, two miles distant. The population of Clynnog parish is 1671. About midway in this route the Yr-Eifl, or Eifl Moun- tains, commonly, but improperly, called The Rivals, are too conspicuous and too peculiar in their aspect to escape ob- servation. The range includes three conical heights, of similar form, and not differing greatly in their altitude ; the middle point, being the most lofty, is 1886 feet high ; do TRE-R-CAERI NANT GWRTHEVKN. and that ■\vliicli is on the N.W. projects boldly into the sea, terminating in an abrupt perpendicular descent. Be- sides the three principal mountains, there are other conical hills of precisely similar form, both isolated and in small groups, extending over a considerable tract in the great promontory of Lleyn. It is popularly believed that tlie needle of the compass is sensibly affected on approaching this coast, owing to the magnetic ironstone with which the moun- tains abound. To the antiquarian the whole district is highly interesting, as containing numerous Druidical and other British remains. Of these the most remarkable is Tre'r-Caeri, or the Town of Fortresses, the finest and most complete example of a British station in the kingdom. It is about a mile from the village of Llanaelhaiarn, at a considerable elevation on the S.E. peak of Yr-Eifi. The remains of a great number of small houses, or cells, generally of oval form, are spread over the side of the mountain, and near to them are several circles of stones ; the whole being surrounded and fortified with a double range of walls. On the summit is a carnedd, and below are the remains of a cromlech. Other eminences in the vicinity exhibit remains of similar character, though less extensive and complete ; concurring to prove that this mountainous district was one of the retreats of the Britons when seeking refuge from the fury of Saxon invaders. Nant Gwrthetrn, or Voriic/ern's Valletj, is a level tract, lying in a singular hollow, open on one side to the sea, and in all other parts bounded and shaded by the rocky declivities of the Eifl moujitains. It is a remarkable scene, a deep gloomy glen, profoundly impressive, even awful. It owes its name to the tradition that this secluded spot was chosen as the retreat of the unfortunate British king Vortigern, when fleeing from the rage of his subjects, incensed against him for having in- vited the Saxons into Wales ; and that here he and his dwell- ing were consumed by lightning. A gi'assy mound near the sea is pointed out as the site of his residence, and another as the place of his interment. This is called Bedd Gurtheyrn, or the grave of Vortigern, and it is said that a stone coffin was some years ago found on the spot, containing the bones of a man of more than ordinary stature. Pwllheli, or the Saltwater Pit, is a pleasant seaport on the fWLLHELI NEVIN. 91 In. side of Cardigan Bay, possessing attractions in the salu- brity of its situation, its facilities for bathing, and the roman- tic character of the surrounding scenery. The view from the town of the whole extent of the Snowdon mountains on the one hand, and of those of Merionethshire on the other, together with the entire sweep of the beautiful bay of Cardigan, is truly grand and splendid. At the entrance of the harbour is Careg- yr-Imhill, or the Gimlet Rock, a picturesque object, prominent in every view of the bay. Many hundred acres of land, for- merly under water, have been secured against the sea 1)y embankments, and are now in high cultivation. Ship-building is carried on to a considerable extent ; there is a good coasting trade ; and the weekly markets are large. Lobsters, oysters, and other shell-fish are abundant. Pwllheli unites with other boroughs in the county in electing a member of Parliament. Population, 3040. Hotel : The Crown. Criccieth. This old market town and parliamentary borough, contributory to Carnarvon, occupies a fine position at the head of Cardigan Bay. It now contains some very good houses, built on the hill rising from the sea-shore, at an altitude of from about 100 to 150 feet, where very tolerable lodgings can be had. The air is considered very salubrious. To the passing traveller it is worthy of notice, on account of the remains of its ancient castle, situated on an eminence, at the termination of a long neck of land, projecting into the sea. Portions of three towers are standing, two of them on the very verge of the rock. A double fosse and vallum, and the lines of the outer and inner courts, may be accurately traced. It is apparently of British origin, and repaired at a later period, probably by Edward I. Across the bay is seen the fine old castle of Harlech, backed by the Merionethshire mountains, Nevin (properly Nefn) is an extensive fishing town, in a very secluded situation, open on one side to Carnarvon Bay, but on all others shut in by a semicircular range of hills. Edward I. held here a triumphal revel, or tournament, in the year 1 284, shortly after his conquest of "Wales. It was on a magnificent scale and attracted great numbers of English and foreign nobility. The site of the lists can still be traced, and local names refer to the event. Nevin la one of the jjarliamentary boroughs in the Carnarvon district. Aberdaron is a village situated at the termination of the 92 BARDSEY ISLE. long promontory of Lleyn, once thronged with pilgrims on their way to and from the isle of Bardsey, now rarely visited and little known. Its score of small tenements are embosomed in a narrow valley, overhung with lofty cliifs. The coast scenery in each direction is of the grandest and most sublime character. It has an ancient church, of singular construction, close to the shore. Boats may be hired for visiting Bardsey. Bardsey Isle is not at all times accessible without diffi- culty, and even danger. From the force of the tidal current which rushes between it and the mainland, and which some- times prevents communication for weeks together, it obtained the British name, Yn^js Enlli, the island of the current ; and as having been a favourite retreat of the holy bards, the Saxons called it Bards-Etje — i.e. the isle of bards, or saints. The island is nearly 2 miles from N. to S. At the N. end it is about three-quarters of a mile broad, and at the S. it narrows to a point, near to which is a lighthouse 108 feet high. It contains 370 acres and about 90 inhabitants, whose occupa- tions are fishing, collecting the eggs of sea-birds, and trafficking in the skins of rabbits. Lord Newborough receives from the islanders an annual rent of <£122. On the N. side are the ruins of St. Mary\ Abbe?/, founded by Cadfan as early as 516. In the 7th century numerous refugees from Bangor Iscoed and other places flocked to this monastery, and so great was its celebrity for some ages, that the bards affirmed that 20,000 saints had been buried here. Of the monastic buildings nothing remains except a portion of a tower 30 feet high, called the Abbot's lodge, some traces of a chapel or oratory, and numerous adjacent graves. During the summer montlis there are frequent excursions by steamers from Aberystwith to this island. CARNARVON TO LLANBERIS AND BEDDGELERT. Llanberis 10 miles ; Beddgelert 12— Total 22. ON RIGHT FROM CARNARVON. 22 CARNARVON. a ii ON LEFT FROM CARNARVON. To Pwllheli, 20 m. Cwellin, Mr. Lewis. Site of Segontium. Llanbeblig Church. TyGwyn, Rev. James Parry. 21 1 Coed Mawr, E. G. Powell, Esq. 20 .g^cr. the riv. Seoint. 2 Erw, Miss Thomas. Plastyrion,JohiiRow- lands, Esq. Llanrug Church. 19 3 Pantafon, Rev. H. B. Williams. 94 CARNARVON TO LLANBEUIS AND CEDDGELEUT. ON RlfillT PROM CAUNAUVON. Ilafod. Caer-eareg-y-tran. Bryribras Castle, a modern erection, Tlios. Williams, Esq. Ceunant Mawr, or the Fall of the great chasm. Llyn Dwj-thwch. The craggy sides of Snowdon rise precipi- tously above the road, but tiie summit of the mountain is here con- cealed. Cwm Dyli. Hafod y-rhisg. Dinas Emrys, the Fort of Merlin, or Vortigem's Hill. To Carnarvon, by Bettws Garmon,13 ni. To Tremadoc, 5^ ni Cwm-y-Gln, I fine view of lakes and mountains. N.W.endofLIynPadani. S.E. 6ndofLlynPadarn. Dolbadarn Inn. Victoria Hotel. N.W. end of LljTi Peris. S.E. end of Llyn Peris. LLAXBERIS, Church. Pout-y-Cromlech. Long steep ascent. Pass of Llanberis. Gorphwysfa, or resting- place. Long steep descent. Turn sharp to right. Nant Gwynant, or th Vale of Water.s. LljTi Gwynant. ^ cr. riv. GwjTiant. Llyn-y-Ddinas. ^JQ cr. river ColwjTi. BEDDGELERT. Pass of Aberglaslyn. Pout Aberglaslyn. f^&. cross the river Glaslyn, and enter Merionethshire. 4i ON LEFT FROM CARNARVON. 23J Dinas Mawr, an( Camp. Llys Dinorwig, a British furtilication. Slate-Quarries. Dolbadarn Castle. Tyn-y-Ffynnon, well of St. Peris, Ynys Hettws, or Hetty's Island, re- sembling an immense cromlech. To Capel Curig, 4 m. Hafod Llwyfog. | Bryn Gwynant, 1 Wyatt, Esq. I Plas Gwynant, Llew- j elyn Vaudrey, Esq. Chair of Rhys Goch. '^^■^^.v 4k& ^p LLANBERI8. 95 LLANBERTS. [Hotels : Royal Victoria ; Pailarn Villa ; Dolbadarn. The Castle and Glpi Peris are smaller houses.] N-B. — Tliere is a coach from Llanberis to Portmadoc, which is the nearest sta- tion for the south, unless the tourist return to Carnarvon. The distance is 23 miles. Posting, 5 hours, 23s. ; postboy, 3d. per mile. This route in- cludes the Pass of Llanberis, Beddgelert, and Pass of Aberglaslyn. Though the railway is now opened, travellers often prefer to drive from Carnarvon to the lakes of Llanberis, 8 miles distant, the village being 2 miles farther. The first 4 miles of the road are somewhat tame and uninteresting, but the remainder is a suitable and animating introduction to the sublime scenery to which it conducts. The hotels are conve- niently situated for easy access to the various objects of interest, and at any of them requisite information may be obtained, and carriages, ponies, and guides, engaged. The Royal Vic- toria is a very spacious and admirably conducted hotel. Padain Villa and Dolhadarn, though not so large, are very good houses. The Castle and Olyn Peris Hotels are good second-rate houses ; also, about a mile on the road to Car- narvon, there is a good small inn. The Lakes are Llyn Peris, the upper, rather more than a mile long ; and Llyn Paclarn, the lower, 2 miles in length. They both lie in a direction from S.E to N.W., and are skirted on their S.W. side by the high road. They are not more than a quarter of a mile apart, and through the neck of rich meadow-land lying between them flows a narrow stream by which they are connected, crossed by a bridge affording access to the Dinorwig slate-quarries. Mountains of varied forms rise abruptly on both sides of these lakes, and those especially which surround the head of the upper one are of the most majestic and sublime character. Both lakes are very deep. The river which issues from the N.W. extremity of Llyn Padarn, and terminates its short course at Carnarvon, is the Seoint, although the ujjper portion of it is better known in the neighbourhood as the Eothell. Neither lakes nor rivers in this vicinity are found favourable to the sport of anglers, being probably, in this respect, injured by the washings of the copper- mines. Dolbadarn Castle is only about 200 yards from the 96 DOLBADARN CASTLE. Victoria Hotel. It is a single circular tower, occupying a rocky point of no great elevation at the foot of Llyn Peris. It is evidently of great antiquity, but the precise date of its foundation is not ascertained. It is believed to have existed as early as the 6th century, because a stronghold in this locality is referred to as held at that period by Maelgwyn Gwynedd, prince of North Wales. It has been a fortress of importance on account of its position, commanding the passage of the lakes and valley. Tlie meadow spread beneath it was called D6I-hadarn — i. e. the holm or meadow of Padam, for here, tradition relates, a holy man so named passed his life in solitude and devotion. To this British saint several churches in Wales are dedicated. The castle was long held by Llewelyn, the last prince of Wales of the British line. Here for twenty- three years, from 1254 to 1277, he imprisoned his unfortunate brother Owen Goch, or the Red. A Welsh ode, by the bard Hoicel Foel, lamenting the hard fate of Owen, is extant, from a free translation of which we extract the first and last stanzas : — " THE CAPTIVE OF DOLBADARX. " From yonder height a captive's sighs Are wafted t'wards me by the gale ; There chain'd — abandon'd — Owen lies, And I still live to tell the tale ! To tell how, by a brother's doom. You towers are Owen's living tomb. * * * * " Shame that a prince like this should lie An outcast, in captivity ; And oh ! what years of ceaseless shame Shall cloud the Lord of Snowdon's name! " Dolbadarn Castle was maintained for some time against the attack of Edward I. by Dafydd, also a brother of Llewelyn, but he was at length compelled to abandon it, and after vainly endeavouring to conceal himself with his wife and seven children in the movmtains and morasses, he was taken prisoner, and carried in chains, first to Rhuddlan, and then to Shrews- bury, where he was put to death -with much cruelty. During the protracted struggles of Ouxn Glyndivr, in the reigns of Henry IV. and V., it was repeatedly in possession of each party, being warmly contended for as the master-key to the region of Snowdon. The present remains, covering the whole WATERFALL— LLANBERIS. WATERFALL OF CEUNANT MAWR SLATE QUARRIES. 97 summit of the rock, consist only of a portion of a round tower, wliicli has evidently had three floors, exclusive of a vaulted basement storey, probably used as a dungeon. A. few broken steps show that the intercommunication was by spiral stairs. The best \"iew of the ruins is from a boat on the adja- cent lake, and, when reflected in the smooth waters beneath, it is particularly beautiful. The Waterfall of Ceunant LIawr — i.e. of the great chasm — is about lialf-a-niile south from the castle, approached by an ascending rocky walk of no great dificulty. Children of the neighbourhood are always at hand, ready to attend as guides. A number of streams descending from the sides of Snowdon and of Moel Eilio, having imited, rush over a shelf of rock through a dark chasm of great depth, being in the descent turned suddenly aslant, and then thundering into a dark pool below. The height of the fall exceeds 60 feet. It is a remarkably beautiful cascade, all animation and brilliancy, and in the perfect seclusion whence it starts into life is a charming surprise. Eoscoe well says of it — " The roar of its precipitous fall — the flashing of its waters in the bright beam of a noonday sun — the rising of its light foam glowing with prismatic colours — and the sequestered aspect of the spot, in the very gorge of the glen, present a scene that has in it something inconceivably wild, picturesque, and beautiful." The Slate-Quarries are the valuable property of G. W. Duff, Esq. of VaenoL They extend far along the sides, and are cut deep into the interior of the Allt DH (or Black diiF), the mountain on the N.E. side of the lakes. They give em- ployment to more than 2000 men and boys ; and the produce is conveyed by locomotive engines along a railway to the coast of the I\Ienai Straits. The sights and sounds connected with these mining operations, in the midst of the wild scenery of Llanberis, cannot fail to excite admiring interest. 98 SNOWDON. N.S. — Tlie ascent from Llanberis (5 miles) is by a path which is wide enough for ponies to a few yards of the summit. Charge for guide and pony, 10s. Ascent 3 hours ; descent 2 hours. There is a comfortable hotel on the top, where good refreshments may be obtained, and four beds for those who wish to stay over night to see the sun rise. The route may be varied by descending on another side, either to Capel Curig or Beddgelert. If the road is kept, and the weather reliable, the guide may be dispensed with on the Llanberis route. A continuous mountain-range extend.9 acro.ss the county of Carnarvon, from the coast near Nevin in the S.W. to Pen- maeu-mawr near Conway in the N.E. ; thus stretching over a tract which measures, in a direct level line, not less than 35 miles. To the whole of this country is given the general designation of the Snowdon range, while to the loftiest and noblest elevation, which is as nearly as possible in the middle of the line, is especially appropriated the name of Snowdon. The appellation is Saxon, and signifies simply a snowy height. The British name Craig Eryri is of exactly the same import. The most elevated point is further distinguished by the term Y Wijddfa, or the conspicuous. Its altitude is 3571 feet. Carnedd Llewelyn ranks second in height, being 3482 feet. The ascent of Snowdon may be commenced from Beddgelert, Llyn-Cwellyn on the road between Beddgelert and Carnarvon, Capel Curig, or Llanberis. The last named is now generally preferred as the starting-point, becaitse the ascent is undoubt- edly less difficult. The late Mr. Bingley, who had tried seven different ways to and from the top of the mountain, declared that this " was by far the most easy and agreeable, being less steep, less rocky, and less dangerous, than any of the others." This path, as marked in the chart, is by the waterfall Ceunant Mcnor to a vale called Cwm Brwynog, thence along the ridge which immediately overlooks the vale of Llanberis, till M-ithin sight of a black and almost perpendicular rock, named Clog- wyn-DA-'r-Arddu, with a small lake at its bottom. This being passed at about a quarter of a mile on the right hand, tlie next steep ascent is called Llechivedd-y-Rij, which being attained, the course is S.W. to a well, whence the highest peak, now full in view, is distant about a mile ; and the remainder of the ascent, although steep, is tolerably smooth. Near the top is a spring of pure water, remarkably cold. Edinbtirgli.Publt JjT^v,-r\. Jt E^igraxetL by J- HarOwLamjew. EdmK l.-i&C.Black. SNOWDON. 99 Tlie summit, not more than six or seven yards in diameter, is surrounded by a dwarf wall, on which it is convenient to lean or sit while deliberately surveying the magnificent pro- spects on every side. A comfortable house has been erected for the piu-poses of shelter, refreshment, and repose, if needed. The distance from the Victoria Hotel to the summit of Y Wijddfa is about 5 miles. Travellers have commonly ex- aggerated the difficulties of the ascent. In favourable weather, it is really nothing more than what any person, who has good health, and is accustomed to regular moderate exercise, may without fear or hesitation undertake. The indispensable requisites are suitable garments, an early morning start, an experienced guide, some slight provisions, a horn or flask for water, and a resolute abstinence from stimulating beverages, or at least the most scrupulous moderation in the use of them. From Capel Curig the ascent of Snowdon is grandest in point of scenic effect, but the distance to the point where the real ascent is commenced is greater, and the course to be subsequently traversed extremely rugged. The route is through the valley of the Mymhyr, and past Pen-y-guryd, 5 miles on the road to Llanberis ; then turn on the left to a small pool called Llyn Teyrn, along a beaten track above Cwm Dyli, and close to the S.E. margin of Llyn Lhjdiaio ; then westerly, lea\ang the Llywedd, one of the buttresses of Snow don, to the left, and thence, by a difficult and circuitous course, to the highest point, Y Wyddfa. This route may be readily traced on the accompanying chart. In this manner other routes might be indicated, but as the chart supplies more effectually the information required, little advantage could be derived from such sketches ; and it is believed that more pleasure will be drawn from personal narratives of the ascent furnished by two accomplished modern writers, Thomas Roscoe, Esq., in his " Wanderings and Excur- sions in North Wales," and Sir Thomas Noon Talfourd, in his " Vacation Rambles." Mr. Roscoe WTites, " On one occasion, while staying at the Victoria Hotel, I determined to commence the ascent of Snow- don at such an early hour as would aftbrd me the prospect of a glorious sunrise from the top of that lofty mountain. For this purpose I engaged a guide, whom I ordered to be in readi- 100 SNOWDON. ness the foUomn;^' morning, and at the appointed time, after some hasty refreslmient, we started on our way before day- break, taking care to provide tlie edibles, ycleped brandy and biscuits, necessary for a day's sojourn upon the hills. After a wearisome walk we reached the stone-work on the highest point, but only to meet with disappointment, for thick mists invested the pinnacle of Y Wyddfa, and the sun rose in murky gloom. The cold was intense, and I was almost disposed to beat a retreat from this comfortless situation, but my com- panion prevailed on me to remain, assuring me, from his long experience, that the morning might yet prove to be remark- ably fine. He was correct in his prognostication, and a day of wonderful revelations rewarded me for this exercise of patience. After waiting for nearly two hours, the heavy clouds moved forward in tempestuous eddies, and for a few minutes tie scene was without any parallel for its novel and sublime character. The objects immediately surrounding me, and the summits of the loftier hills, apjieared to roll with the surge of the sweeping and dispersing fogs. As they slowly debouched, column after colimin, the horizon began to clear, and the splendid scenery below disclosed itself more dis- tinctly. The sun, breaking forth from his pavilion of clouds, illuminated the mural steeps of the Lly wedd, and shed a sudden radiance over the lakes and vales below. The panoramic views presently became more grand and extensive. Far as the eye could reach a vision of wondrous power and beauty unfolded itself, awakening new thoughts and feelings in the soul, which trembled while it exulted in tracing the startling and majestic characters stamped by an Omnipotent hand upon these his glorious works. The atmosphere became perfectly clear ; the day, magnificently beautiful, displayed the most distant objects to the far-oflf horizon of the sea, in the most brilliant and varied illuminations. The red veins of Crib Goch reflected back a stream of sanguine rays, as quick and fierce as those which glittered upon his ridge. The singular and fantastic forms of these rocky formations, either primitive or time-worn, pinnacled or projecting, running off in bold escarpments, or shelving into sheet-like floors of granite, sometimes yawning in chasms too deep for the light of summer sun to reach, or rounded into amphitheatres that might have formed the Oou»cil-hall of a race of giants, gleaming in their hues of grey, SNOWDON. 101 green, and purj^le, lying in ribbon streaks, or mingling in rich combination, — all, all lay immediately around me. The loftiest points of England, Scotland, and Ireland, were not merely shadowed forth, but were seen ; while the Isle of Man, sparkUng with ocean lights,^the Menai, running like a silver thread in a web of verdure, — and Anglesey, with hei hills and coasts, appeared to be spread like a map before the eye. The impression was that of a world of solitude stretching out in a succession of prospects, fading into distant softening vistas, as agreeable to the eye as to the imagination, and looking like the val sans retour of fairy-land. The descent fi'om Snowdon into the vale of Llanberis offers many picturesque views, but they are not so interesting or majestic as those on the side of Capel Curig or Beddgelert. A great part of the way is mono- tonous ; but this, in some degree, served to heighten the plea- sure of reaching in safety the delightful scene around old Dolbadarn Tower, which had presented itself under many aspects, with varied effects, from different points upon the hills." Sir Thomas Noon Talfourd's description is as follows : — " Of the four British mountains which possess the most power- ful influence for the imagination, Snowdon, Cader-Idris, Hel- vellyn, and Ben Nevis, each has its own attributes ; and though in each the most striking feature is that of dark pre- cipice, this is so differently exhibited in each, that if any one familiar with them all could see a single precipice apart from its accessories, he might tell to which mountain it belonged. Of these mountains Snowdon forms beyond comparison the noblest aggregate, because, except on the side opposite Car- narvon, its upper portion is all mighty frame-work, a top up- lifted on vast buttresses, disdaining the round lumpish earth, spreading out skeleton arms towards heaven, and embracing on each side huge hollows, made more awful by the red tints of the copper-ore which deepens among its shadows, and gleams through the scanty herbage of its loveliest pathways. Perhaps I love Snowdon the better on account of its being the first great mountain I ever knew. I have ascended it several times ; from Capel Curig, from Llanberis, and from Beddgelert; the last time on October 1st, 1839, from the latter place. I am tempted to extract the following account of my ascent from some notes of an Autumn in Wales, made shortly afterwards. 102 SNOWDON. " * The morning da\raecl misty, yet promising, and I engaged a car to take me three miles on to the place where the ascent commences. As I rode on the Carnarvon road, speculating on the state of things in the higher regions, I observed a pin- nacle shooting out his head from the mist far into the sky. I asked my guide what height it was, and was told that it was the peak of Snowdon. Seen over the round breast of an intervening hill, it did not look higher than many other points, but was remarkable for its spiral form, and was surmounted, certainly not adorned, by what here appeared to be a little stick, but which in reality is a great piece of timber, stuck up in the midst of a heap of stones, all reared by order of government for a landmark, as if the mountain were not great enough without the addition of this Cockney crown ! We proceeded, keeping this tall head in view, till we reached a gate about three miles on the road, where we quitted the car and began the ascent. We now saw the whole of the S.E. side of the mountain, which presented directly before us its second peak, with the highest just peering over it. Here the mountain did not, at first sight, appear high, not nearly so high as a slender rock we had passed ; but on looking attentively at it you could fancy it crouching to conceal its height. Its aspect was that of a stony hill, surmounted by a green shoulder, on which appeared a steep upward track, with a tall peak just peeping over the ridge, and beyond, a long regular slant, dark against ihe sky. We walked along a plashy path, very gently rising, to a farm-house ; passed through its yard, and continued by the side of a little stream, curving upwards through the dark rushy meadow, till we reached the first serious ascent among heaps of rocks, which bestrew the lower part of the hilL We now began to feel ourselves rapidly rising, winding about among grass and pieces of rock, till we reached a great flat stone on which we rested, and the view from which was remarkable. Before us lay the simple unadorned lake of Bettws, with its one great rock rising to shield it ; beyond, seen through two ranges of hill, the towers of Carnarvon castle ; and below, but ap- parently quite close, Anglesey seen mapped out to Holyhead. The sea spread its lovely blue on each side of Anglesey, but the Menai Straits were entirely hidden ; and the effect was that of standing on a terrace of which the towers of Carnarvon SNOWDON. 103 formed the battlements^ and looking directly down on a huge garden below. Hence ascending, we found the second peak rising far higher above us than the summit itself had appeared from the plain. A spring of clear, cold, exquisite water de- tained us a few minutes, as it is the highest on this side of the mountain. On the Capel Curig side there is a spring not very far below the summit. Here I tasted the water, having prepared the way by a little brandy with which the guide had taken care that we should be provided. Here we saw the sea in front as well as to the west, between the huge openings of the moimtains, and looked into a great valley branching off in that direction, which contains two lakes within its depth, between which Wilson sat when di'awing Snowdon. A little onward we reached the margin of the first great hollow of the mountain — not quite so grand as that below the summit of Cader Idris — holding three small pools, iriljfcead of, like that, one great tarn. Along the side of the hollow, up the shining track, we now laboured, and foiuid it by far the hardest work of the ascent, though not so hard as the Fox's Path of Cader. Having surmoimted this stiff brae, we turned to the left imder the second peak beside the precipice, and soon came to a ridge connecting it with a summit, the grandest part by far of the ascent. We now looked into a greater precipice on the opposite side, the greatest of all Snowdon's hollows, over- shadowed by a shelf of rock of the boldest form, holding a little lake in its depth, and descending to a green ridge over which the road from Beddgelert to Capel Curig, in the vale of Gwynaut, is seen, like a line of blue among the green. Beyond the upward ridge, I had glimpses of a third hollow, that which is ascended from Capel Curig, of the same cha- racter, but not quite so large. Hence the path to the summit was sometimes on one side the ridge, sometimes on the other, sometimes on its top; but quite easy, and (in spite of the fables of guide-books, which talk about people dying with fright in it) quite safe. After about two hours and a half's walk from the road we reached the summit, where I partook of some sandwiches and brandy and water, with great relish. Here the mountain seems drawn to a point, as by five or six cords shouldering to the plain ; and within these to embrace great hollows more or less precipitous, with pools or tarns in their depths. Near the top it is a mere bunch of ridges 1 04 SNOWDON. surmounted by one slender apex, defended by rocky frag- ments like huge tusks. Climbing the mound of stones, I saw the entire panorama, in its kind matchless, but not so grand as the lower view from the ridge connecting the second peak with the summit. To the W. lay Anglesey, the sea beyond, and I thought I caught a glimpse of the Wicklow mountains. To the N. Moel Siabod, and the great mountains between Capel Curig and the sea, forming the pass, through which the road is conducted among great, bare, stony rocks, glittering in the sun. To the S. the mountains of Merionethshire, among which Cader was easily to be distinguished, and for some minutes a gleam of light revealed the very side of its central precipices along which I had lately climbed ; and beyond, — blue in the distance — crouched Plinlimmon. To the E. a wilderness of mountain, and round at least two- thirds of the view the blue ocean poured, as aroimd the shield of Achilles. The most remarkable feature of this great prospect is the mountain-tarns which gleam upon you from the bosom of the hills. I counted 23. Among them, one very far up its own mountain gleamed out as from a brimming basin, over the Holyhead road, just visible in its huge bed of rock, at least 1500 feet above the neighbouring track of human traffic. I remained on the summit nearly an hour, during which time I was joined by a young friend and two ladies, who had ascended from Llanberis. On the descent we w^alked over the crown of the second peak, whence, and from the ridge, the view is really nobler than from the sum- mit, because the neighbouring mountains are seen in nobler proportion.'" In Wordsworth's Prelude, at the commencement of the last Book (p. 353), a moonlight night on the top of Snowdon is described with great beauty of language. The geological character of Snowdon is peculiar and of great interest ; and for the researches of the botanist it affords an extensive and most productive field, Snowdon was for- merly a " royal forest," and abounded with deer, but the last of these were destroyed at the begiuning of the 1 7th century. Some writers have asserted that the higher part of the moun- tain is under snow throughout the year. This, however, is by no means the case. Its highest peak is as much as 800 feet below the point of permanent snow ; and neither in quantity THE PASS OF LLANBERIS. 105 nor duration does tlie snow here exceed what might be ex- pected from its comparative elevation. Llaxberis Village and Church are about half-a-mile beyond the iipper end of Lynn Peris, and about two miles from the Victoria Hotel. They will be passed in pursuing the route to Beddgelert. The parish is extensive, and owing to the proximity of the slate-quarries the population has been greatly increased. The church, dedicated to St. Peris, is for the most part a modern erection, but includes portions of a very ancient structure which was deemed " the greatest archi- tectural curiosity in Wales." The Well of St. Peris, not far from the church, was long held in high repute, and even superstitious veneration, not merely on account of the purity of its waters, but especially for their supposed sanatory efficacy, and their alleged property of revealing future events by the agency of a sUver fish which at intervals appeared in the crystal fountain. Some copper-mines in the neighbour- hood are stiU. wrought, although far less productive than formerly. The Pass of Llaxberis, between the N, ridge of Snow- don and the S. side of Glyder-fawr, surpasses in awe-inspiring wildness every other scene in the usual tracks of Welsh tourists. It has been sometimes compared to Glencroe, and even to Glencoe, in Scotland, and to the pass in Honister Crag in Cumberland, from all of which, however, it differs in some prominent characteristics. Until within the last few years it was inaccessible to carriages of any description, and was pene- trated only by bold, adventurous pedestrians, and by the hardy ponies of the country. It is now traversed by a well- formed road, which, though ascending and descending steeply, is so easily and so constantly passed by every kind of vehicle, as to discharge from the mind of the traveller every idea of danger, and even of difficulty, and to leave him at liberty, in the utmost tranquillity and composure, to contemplate the majestic and sublime objects amidst which he is conveyed. The precipitous and craggy sides of the noble moimtains, in some parts of basaltic formation, press closely on each other, and shut in the narrow pass. Shattered masses of every form, which have been hurled down from the heights, are lying about in strange confusion, and amidst them a stream, rushing and roaring, hastens its descent to the head of Llyn Peris, 106 NANT GWTNANT. Midway, on the left-hand side of the road, an enonnoiis frag- ment of rock, fallen from the side of Glyder-fawr, has been so precipitated as to assume some resemblance to an immense cromlech. Resting upon other fragments, it leaves a cavity beneath, which, it is said, an old woman, named Hetty, was wont to occupy as her shelter and resting-place when tending her cattle, sheep, and goats ; and hence it is called Ynys Hetties, or Hetty's Island, though more generally known as the Cromlech. At the present time it is partially enclosed by a rude fence of loose stones, and is used as a fold for the washing of sheep. At the summit of the pass, a level verdant space, inviting a pause, and affording a view in both directions, is appropriately named Gorpkwysfa — i.e. the resting - place. At rather more than a mile beyond this, the road, having descended quickly, enters the older road between Capel Curig and Beddgelert, near to the roadside Inn of Pen-y-gwryd. From this junction Capel Curig is distant about 4 miles. The route to Beddgelert takes a sharp turn to the right, and quickly enters Nant Gwynant, or the Vale of Waters, " the scene of many a bloody skirmish in the time of Edward IV., between WUliam Earl of Pembroke, and the Welsh Lancastrians under Jevan- ap-Eobert." A well-formed road, traversing a rich valley in a course parallel with the river (though at a considerable elevation above it), and overlooking the Lake Gwynant, with fertile meadows on the one hand and luxuriant woods on the other, unfolds scenes of exquisite beauty, the impression of which is greatly heightened by their contrast with the sub- limer featui'es of the mountainous district in the midst of which they are found. In this neighbourhood Wilson sketched some of his finest pictures, and here the artist has still an endless field of study. Llyn Gwynant is a lovely lake, about 1 mile long, and averaging a quai'ter of a mile in breadth. This being passed, the road, first on one side of the river for nearly a mile, and then about an equal distance on the other side, is conducted through a narrow wooded vaUey till it reaches another lake, csMediLlyn-y-ddinas, smaller, and perhaps less beautiful, than Llyn Gwynant, yet possessing some pecu- liar charms, and surrounded with more terrific grandeur. At different points in this road fine \'iews are obtained of the peaked summit of Snowdon. Passing alona the north margin LLANDUDNO JUNCTION TO BETTYS-T-COED 107 of the lake, and, after leaving it, still pursuing the course of the stream, the road is formed immediately beneath a remark- ably isolated rock called Dinas Emrys, or the Fort of Merlin, the scene of many wondrous traditions respecting the famous bard and prophet. The rock is also called Vortigern^s Hill, because the British prince of that name, after having, in an evil hour, by confiding in the Saxons, incurred the distrust and vengeance of his own countrymen, retreated to this spot, and here remained for a time, until he found more perfect seclusion in the Vale of Gwrtheyrn. Then, crossing the Nant Colwyn by a rude stone bridge, we reach Beddgelert. LLANDUDNO JUNCTION to BETTWS-Y-COED by Kailway. Thence by Coach to Capel Curig. This branch line of the Chester and Holyhead Railway is now open as far as Bettws-y-Coed (15 ndles), and affords an easy approach to Capel Curig and Snowdon. It follows closely the right bank of the river Conway, and the stations are as follow : — Llandudno Junction. Glan Conway Tal-y-Cafn . Miles. . U . 5j Llanrwst Bettws-y- Coed Miles. . lOJ . 15 Coaches run, in connection with Curig— distance 6 miles. the trains, between Bettws and Capel ITINERARY. Conway to Llanrwst and Bettws- y-Coed. — By Road. ON RIGHT S ^ gi ON LEFT FROM CON WAT. 16i CONWAT. Gyffin, a village secluded in a deep glen. It was for- merly an important for- tified post, called Caer Gyffin. ^1 FROM CONWAY. To AbbT. 10 m. 4 Benarth. Tal-y-Cafn Ferry. 12 Caerhun, or Caer Rhtin. 4* Roman Station, Con- avium. 11 Llanbedr (i. «., the church of St. Peter). H 108 CONWAY TO BETTWS-T-COED. ON RIGHT -. 4 ON LEFT FROM CONWAY. 4 10 Pont-Porthlwyd. o 6J FROM CONWAY. Fall of rorthlwyd, called by the neigh- bours Rliayadr-Mawr, -1?^ cr. a stream which i.e., the Great Cata- issues from Llyu ract. Kigiau. Falls of Dolgarrog, ISO feet. 9 Pont Dolganwy. -1^ cr. a stream flow- 7i Chalybeate spring. ^ ing from Llyn Cwlyd. 8 The Abbey of Mae- nan, on E. bank of the Conway, of which little remains. It is the property of Lord Newborough. Plas Madoc. Plas Engan. 7 Trefriw, pronounced by the country people Tre- vor. 9i The Conway is navi- gable to this place for vessels of 60 tons. There is a good trade Llanrhychwyn, a mountain village, i^ cr. a stream which descends from two in slates, coals, lime, timber, &c. i near to which the il- lakes, called Crafnant lustrious bard Talie- and Geiriouydd. ain long dwelt. To Cap»l Curig 6 J m. 1^ cr. the river Con- way and enter Denbigh- shire. 4i LLANRWST. Recross the river Con- way and return to Car-| 12 Another road from Llanrwst to Conway, on the E. side of the river. Gwydir Chapel, in a wood on the hillside, narvonshire. Gwydir House, Lord Willoughby D'Eres- by. an attractive object. Carreg-y-Gwalch, or The Falcon Rock. Across the river, Ogof-ap-Shenkin, or Hendre House, and the cave of Jenkin, the villas of Oaklands who was a daring and CUceni. outlaw. Confluence of the Llyn-y-Parc, and Conway and the Rhayadr-y-Parc- Llugwy. Mawr. A small i Pont-y-Pair. 16 stream falls 100 feet. iJ^Ci cr. the river Llugwy. To Cape! Curig, 6 m. BETTWS-Y-COEn 16i i_. CONWAY RIVER AND VALLEY. 109 CONWAY KTVER AND VALLEY. The river Conway* lias its source in Llyn Conway, a small lake, or tarn, in the mountainous district where the counties of Merioneth, Denbigh, and Carnarvon meet. It first takes a direction N.E. until it reaches the Holyhead road, near Pentre Foelas ; then N.W. parallel with that road as far as Bettws-y-Coed ; and afterwards more directly N. through the beautiful valley to which it gives name, and passing the towTis of Llanrwst and Conway to its efflux in the Irish Sea. Its waters are augmented by the confluence of the rivers Machno, Ceirw, Clett^vr, Lledr, and Llugwy, and some minor streams, all of similar mountainous origin, and all, like itself, flowing with rapidity over rugged channels. Through nearly the whole of its course it forms, with some slight irregularity, the boundary between the counties of Denbigh and Carnarvon. From the village of Trefriw, a little below Llanrwst, to its out- let one mile below the town of Conway, it is a large river, with a winding, placid course, subject to the influence of the tide, and navigable by vessels of 100 tons. Its extreme length is about 30 miles. In the higher part it abounds with trout, and near its mouth the pearl-mussel {Mya margaritifera) is foimd in considerable numbers. The Conway was of import- ance for its pearl-fishery even prior to the Roman invasion. Suetonius acknowledges that this was one of his inducements for undertaking the subjugation of Wales. According to Pliny, these pearls were highly valued, and sought for with avidity by the Romans. Julius Ca3sar dedicated a breastplate set with British pearls to Venus Oenitrix, and placed it in her temple in the imperial city. A fine specimen from the Con- way was presented by Sir Richard Wynne, of Gwydir, to Catherine, Queen of Charles II., which it is affirmed has ever * Sail up the Conwat. A small steamer plies daily between Conway and Trefriw. The hours of departure from Conway vary according to the tide, but the steamer waits little more thau half-an-hour at Trefriw, which is within 2J miles of Llanrwst. The sail is a pleasant one of about 10 miles, and the scenery is varied and beautiful. The pedestrian should take the steamer to Trefriw from Conway, the sail for that distance being very agreeable. Thence the road should be followed to Llanrwst, after visiting which he should again cross the bridge, and follow the course of the river by a path which leads into the Bettws-y-Coed road, and saves nearly a mile. 1 1 CONWAY RIVER AND VALLE7, since contributed to adorn the regal crown of England. The late Sir Eobert Vaughan appeared at Court with a button and loop set with pearls from the Conway. The pearl-mussel is still abundant here ; and although it is stated that the pearls are smaller and of less value than formerly, some per- sons make a livelihood by collecting the shells, which are purchased by an agent on the spot. The fishermen on the Conway, as in some other parts of Wales, use tlie native boats of the kind called Coracle (in Welsh Cwncgl, and in Irish Curach). They are formed ^\'ith a ribbed frame of ■wicker, or light laths, covered -with skins or strong canvas coated with pitch. They are about b^ feet long and 4 feet broad ; in shape nearly oval, with one end more pointed and the other more square, and have a narrow seat laid across near the middle. They generally weigh between 20 and 30 pounds. When returning from their occupation, the men carry these coracles upon their backs, and lay them near their cottage- doors. Boats of this description are of great antiquity. Herodotus gives a description of such ; Strabo mentions their use in the Red Sea ; and Caesar constructed a number on a similar plan for his army in Spain. Probably the coracle succeeded the canoe, implying more skill than is necessary to scoop out a tree, or hollow it with fire, and less than is required for the building of a boat. The hire of a coracle, with the aid of its owner, is recommended to the angler who seeks sport on any of the numerous mountain-lakes in this district. The vale through which the river Conway flows is one of the most celebrated scenic portions of Wales. In its higher part, above Llanrwst, it is bold and romantic ; and in the lower, it is broad, rich, and beautiful. Mr. Roscoe gives it the preference over the vales of Clwyd and Llangollen ; Burke writes of it as " the most charming spot in North Wales ;" and of the late Mrs. Hemans, her biographer states that " some of the happiest days the young poetess ever passed were during occasional visits to friends at Conway, where the charms of the scenery, coml)ining all that is most beautiful in wood, water, and ruin, are suflBcient to inspire the most prosaic temperament with a certain degree of enthusiasm ; and it may therefore well be sixpposed how fervently a soul constituted like hers would worship nature at so fitting a CONWAY RIVER AND VALLEY. Ill shrine." In the elevated mountainous tract which rises from the valley on the western or Carnarvonshire side lies an extensive undulating moor, containing numerous tarns or lakes, which send off small streams as tributaries to the river Conway, and these in their rapid descent form cascades, falling to great depths in the midst of scenery, in some parts of wild and savage grandeur, and in others of transcendent beauty. Caerhun, or Caer-Rh'An, about 4 J miles from Conway, ia an agreeable village, near the river, and siuTounded with wood. To this site has generally been assigned the Eoman station Conovium. The ground-plan of several Eoman buildings has been traced, and a weU-constructed bath, a magnificent shield, and other relics, have been found. In the churchyard are three enormous yew-trees of great age. To the west of the village, a mountain-road branches off to Aber, by the wild pass called Bwlch-y-ddexijaen, along which many remarkable British antiquities occur, and portions of the Eoman road are distinctly seen. Pont Porthlwijd. — At this hamlet the bridge crosses a stream which descends from Lhjn Eigiau, an elevated lake in a recess of Carnedd Llewelyn. A walk of some difficulty, by the side of this mountain-stream, conducts to the fall of Portlilwyd, or, as the country people call it, Rhayadr-mawr — i.€. the great cataract. It is in truth a grand fall, the view of which, especially after much rain, would compensate a far greater degree of toil than the ascent requires. Pont Dolganwy is about one mile farther on the turnpike- road ; and here another of these mountain-torrents is reached. It issues from Llijn Cidyd, and in its descent forms two mag- nificent falls, called the falls of Dolgarrog, which may be easily Bec^i at a short distance from the road. Together they have a perpendicular descent of 180 feet. The scene is more pic- turesffue and beautiful, but has less of sublimity than that of Porthllwyd. In this vicinity is a spring, the water of which is most powerfully chalybeate, leaving a deep iron stain along the course of the stream. Trefriw, commonly pronounced Trevrew, is an agreeable village on the banks of the river, which, as high as this place, ia tidal and navigable. Here is a church said to have been 112 LLANRWSr. built by Llewelyn the Great. Here, too, is another waterfall, formed by a stream which flows from two lakes — namely, Llyn Geirionydd and Lhjn Crafnant. The former of these is renowned as having had on its margin the abode of Taliesin, " tlie chief of the bards." Lord WHloughby D'Eresby has erected a monument, identifying and commemorating tlie spot where this Qlustrious poet lived and sang.* In the summer season it is the frequent resort of parties of pleasure, and is sometimes enlivened by music and sports. All the lakes which have been mentioned, as well as others in this neighbourhood, are attractive to the lovers of angling. About a mile from Llyn Geirionydd is the mountain village of LlanrhychwjTi. LLANRWST [Hotels: Eagles; The Victoria ; Queen's.] is a market-town on the river Conway, partly in Carnarvon- shire, but principally in Denbighshire, surrounded by much beautifid scenery. It was formerly famous for the manufacture of "Welsh harps, and at a later period for the spinning of woollen yam and knitting of stockings, but these have alike become * Of all the ancient British poets, Taliesin has decidedly acquired the pre- eminence in popular estimation. That his memory should be peculiarly endeared to the natives of Wales cannot be deemed surprising, for he was, above all his bardic contemporaries, wholly and emphatically one of them- selves. He lived in the 6th century, from about 520 to about 570. It is related that, soon after his birth, he was discovered in a fishing-wear on the coast of Cardiganshire, by Elfln, son of Gwyddno, a petty prince in that part of the country. By the young prince he was fostered and educated, and at a proper age introduced to the court of Gwyddno. On this occasion he pre- sented to his preserver a poem, entitled " The Consolations of Elfin," a trans- lation of which is preserved in The Camhro Briton, vol. i. p. 30. Taliesin had an opportunity of evincing his gratitude to his benefactor, for when Elfin was imprisoned in the castle of Diganwy, the young bard addressed a poem to Maelgwn, prince of North Wales, which had the desired efl"ect of procuring the release of Elfln ; and from that time Taliesin enjoyed the favour of Maelgwn. In one of his poems he refers to his residence near Llyn Geirionydd. About eighty poems attributed to him are extant ; and it is reasonable to conclude that what have thus survived the ravages of many centuries bear but a small proportion to the number of his productions. The themes of his muse are for the most part mystical, theological, historical, and elegiac. The lovers of British poetry are indebted to him for the introduction of several metres before untried ; and the historian and antiquary, for accurate descriptions of the manners and customs of the ancient Britons.— See The Cambrian Plutarch, by J. H. Parry. LLANRWST. 1 1 3 insignificant. The cliurch, dedicated to St. Maiy, was built in the 1 5th century, on the site of one much older, which was dedi- cated to St. Grwst, or Rhystyd, and hence the name of the town. It contains several old and interesting monuments, and has a beautiful carved screen, brouglit from the sujjpressed abbey of Maenan. In the south transept, whicli is railed off, is Gwydir Chapel, erected in 1633, by Sir Richard Wynne of Gwydir, from a design by Inigo Jones, the celebrated Welsh architect. It contains five monumental brasses, admirably chased, each having a portrait of a member of the Wynne family. In the same chapel is the large stone cofiiu of Llewelyn-ap-Jorwerth, son-in-law of King John, which, having been first placed in the abbey of Conwaj", and afterwards in , that of Maenan, was removed hither at the dissolution of monastic establishments in the time of Henry VIII. It is entire and of great solidity. A monument in memory of Sir Richard Wynne, who died in 1649, contains the long pedigree of the Wynnes, derived from Owen Gwynedd. A curious stone-caxving may be seen built into the wall of the church- yard, representing the Lamb of God. A new church, called by the inhabitants the English Church, is situated about half-a-mile from the town. Llanrwst has a good Town Hall, and a Free Scliool, both erected in the iVth century. The bridge is an object of some interest, being built by Inigo Jones in 1636. It is broad and massive, and secui'ely founded on the visible rocks, yet it is said that a sudden pressure on one of its j^arapets causes a pjerceptible vibration in the whole structure. A man is generally at hand to ask strangers if they " wish to have a shake," and for bumping his back against the wall he expects to be rewarded by the wondering visitor. Great quantities of salmon are taken here every season, and in the months of February and March vast numbers of smelts are sent to a distance. Llanrwst is a very eligible station for anglers, the whole surrounding country aboimding with lakes and streams. A market is held on Tuesday. The fairs, of wliich there are not fewer than nine annually, have materially declined. The popu- lation of the parish (inclusive of the township of Gwydir), is 3993. Guytherin is a small village 5 miles S.E. from Llanrwst, the site of an ancient nunnery, and the alleged burial-place of 1 N 114 LLANmVST. St. 'Winefred, of 'wliom ample notice has been taken in con* nection with the town of Holywell. Givydir House, the ancient seat of the family of Wynne, now represented by Baron Aveland (Willoughby D'Eiesby family), is about half-a-mile from the town, on the western side of the river Conwaj'. The old mansion was built in 1555, at the foot of a lofty rock, called Carreg-y-Gwalch, i.e. the Eock of the Falcon. A gi'eat pjart was taken down in 1816, and the present structure built in corresponding style, but on a smaller scale. The name Gwydir is derived, according to some, from Givy, water, and Tir, land ; but more j^robably, as stated by others, from Gwaed-dir, the bloody land or eartli ; in allusion to the battle fought here by Llyivarch-Heti in 610. The interior of the mansion is fitted up with elegance, though in a style unusually sombre and gloomy. Lord Aveland, being deputy hereditary great chamberlain of England, has possession of some appendages of royalty which are here pre- served and exhibited. Among them may be mentioned the coronation-chair of George II., and the footstool used by Queen Caroline on her trial at Westminster. The pleasure-grounds are laid out with taste, the surrounding woods are truly mag- nificent, and tbe views from the higher walks in the park are extensive and striking. On the summit of the rock is Gwydir- Ucha, or Upper Gwj'dir, erected for the enjoyment of the prospect, which may be thought not altogether undeserving of the boastful panegyric bestowed on it in a Welsh inscription over the entrauce, thus ti'anslated : " A conspicuous edifice on G\v}'dir Hill, towering over the adjacent land ; a well-chosen situation, a second paradise, a fair bank, a place of royalty." Near G\vydir is a cataract called Rhayad7--y-Parc-maur, the fall of whicb is about 100 feet. The stream being small, the view is not so impressive as that of other waterfalls in the district. By tbe roadside is the Fountain of St. Albright, an incessant stream of pure cold water, conveyed in pijjes from a large reservoir constructed at a considerable distance, on the side of the mountain ; a truly valuable benefit, pro\dded for public accommodation by the enlightened and liberal pro- itfietor of Gwydir. Dohoyddelan viUage and castle may be made the object of a short excursion from either Bettws-y-Coed or Capel Curig. BETTWS-Y-COED. 1 1 £ The castle, erected about the year 500, is interesting chiefly as having been the birthplace of Llewelyn the Great. One square tower of massy masonry retains its original foriL, and a portion of a second tower also remains. It stands on a pre- cipitous rock, at the head of a valley watered by the little river Lledr, and surrounded by mountains of the sternest, wildest grandeur. Southey, in his " Madoc," introduces allu- sions to this ancient castle, adding in a note, " The rudeness and barrenness of the surrounding mountains I can well testify, having been bewildered and benighted upon them." Llijn Comvay, the source of the river of that name, is aboiit a mile to the left hand of the road. It is described as " a beautiful sheet of water well stocked with fish ;" but, on ac- count of the bogs by which it is surrounded, it is by no means easy of access, and anglers or others who may be determined to brave morass and quagmire in order to reach it, should secure the attendance of a guide. BETTWS-Y-COED. [Hotels : Royal Oak ; Waterloo. Coach to Capel Curig.] Bettws-y-Coed, i.e. the Chapel or the Station in the Wood, is a hamlet, delightfully situated, and forming a ro- mantic sylvan retreat, at the junction of the counties of Denbigh and Carnarvon, and near to the confluence of the rivers Llugwy and Conway. There is much of mingled beauty and grandeur in the surrounding scenery. The Llugwy is here crossed by Pont-y-Pair, an old stone bridge, erected in the 15 th century by a native mason of the name of Howel. It has five lofty and irregular arches, covered with ivy, be- neath which the foaming current rushes with the fury of a cataract, and then, making a sudden bend, quietly resigns its waters into the channel of the Conway. The church contains an effigy of Gryffydd, son of David Goch, of the royal lineage of Wales. It is a recumbent figure in armour, circa 1380 a.d., an interesting example of military costume. Bettws-y-Coed is a good angler's station. Bettws-y-Coed has long been a favourite haunt of the angler and artist. The views present features of quiet loveli- ness and grandeur, in which river, cataract, woodland, and moimtain, are commingled alternately. In addition to the 116 BETTWS-Y-COED RHAYADR-Y-WEXXOL. Rhayadr-y-Wennol, the Falls of tlie Conway aiid of the j\Iachuo may be seen in the course of a sixigle morning's excursion. The road leads across the Waterloo Bridge, a handsome iron structure which spans the river Conway with a single arch, and then, turning to the right, ascends the side of the moun- tain-range, which, for a considerable part of the way, c(jm- mands a view of the tributary Lledr. Tlie view up this valley is one of the sweetest pictures on which the eye can rest, and no tourist should leave this locality without seeing Ffos Noddyn (the Fairy Glen) and Pandy MilL A walk up the vale of the Lledr to Dolwjxldelan Castle, a distance of 5 miles, will amply repay the tourist, who will hardly have seen in the course of his rambles a more beautiful little mountain- river, a wilder-looking fortress than that of Dolwyddelan, or a more glorious termination to his prospect than Moel Siabod. The late David Cox, A.R.A., frequented this place for forty years, and the old sign-board of the Royal Oak was painted by him, and is, we believe, still kept in the house as an heir- loom. The Miner's Bridge and the rapids of the Llugwy, about half-a-mile from the turnpike-gate at Bettws, should not be left unvisited. Rhayadr-y-Wexnol — i.e. the Spout or the Foaming Cataract of the Swallow, is about 2 miles from Bettws-y- Coed. Although close to the road, it is wholly concealed by rocks and trees. A small gate at the road- side opens to a winding path, which descends steeply amidst luxuriant foliage. A secure standing-place will be found at the bot- tom, whence an advantageous view of this beautiful and most impressive cataract is obtained. The water of the Llugwy is precipitated down a chasm, which, in its widest part, measures 60 feet across. It does not form a single sheet from top to bottom, but is broken into three large falls, partly precipitous and partly shelving ; and these again are subdivided and broken by the jutting crags, which disperse and dash about the w^aters in all directions, and then the stream rushes on impetuously to the romantic bridge of Pont-y-Pair. The impressiveness of this waterfall is materially aided by its accessories, the union of beauty and grandeur in the surround- ing scenery, the luxuriant wildness of the overhanging trees, the dark solemn colour of the rocky walls, and the forms of the rugged basins into which the water rushes. The tourist CAPEL CCRIG. 117 who is credulous and superstitiously inclined, and who may ballpen to be attended by a native guide, will be iiorrified to his full content, by learning that the wailing sound which mingles with the loud roar of the cataract is occasioned by the shrieks and bowlings of a tortured soul ; for tradition records that Sir John Wyun of Gwydir, who died in 1626, after a life of much injustice and horrid cruelties, is con- demned to remain in spirit beneath the waters of the lower fall. On the top of one of the heights overlooking the glen and cataract is a small tower, or observatory, erected by a neigh- bouring proprietor to commemorate the successful termiaation of a lawsuit. The road from Bettws-y-Coed to Capel Curig is carried through the Vale of the Llugwy, and is about 6 miles in length. The road follows the course of the river, whose banks are richly wooded ; the magnificent mountains of the Snowdon range, now full in view, imparting grandeur and sublimity to the scene. CAPEL CURIG {Hotd: Royal. J The following are the distances from Capel Curig Hotel : — Bettws-y-Coed, 6 miles ; Bangor, 15; Ogwen Lake, 5; Idwal Lake, 6; Llanberis, 10; Beddgelert, 12; Llanrwst, byroad, 11; Llandudno, 27. The Swallow waterfall is within 3i, and the Machno fall within S miles. (pronounced Kappel Kerrig). — This place, small as it is, claims special notice on account of its very commodious Hotel, erected by the late Lord Penrhyn, and most favourably situated for the accommodation of tourists. It is, in all respects, a most eligible resting-place for travellers of every class, at a junction of roads which render it easily accessible from all quarters, surrounded by the lofty mountains of the vast Snowdon group, and near to a number of the most con- siderable lakes and streams in North Wales. As a resort for anglers, and as a central position, few places will be found more favourable. The hamlet contains a small chapel, dedi- cated to the British Saint Curig, of whom mention is made in an old Welsh poem. At a short distance westward from the hotel there are two lakes named Mymhyr, connected by a small river, and on these boats are kept for the use of visitors in angling or other 118 CAPEL CCRIG — SXOWDON. aquatic excursions. Across tlie stream, which flows near the garden of the hotel, is a rustic bridge, whence is a remarkably fine view of Snowdon, perhaps the very best single view of the biforked summit of the majestic mountain. SNOWDON, FROM NEAR CAPEL CUEIG. Capel Curig is a very favourable point for the ascent of Snowdon, which can be easily accomplished the whole way by ponies, and even to within a moderate distance of the summit by carriage. A favourite variation of the route is to cross over the mountain to Beddgelert. (See Snowdon chart.) The following other mountain ascents may also be under- taken, for which guides may be engaged at the Hotel : — MoEL SiABOD, the height of which is 2865 feet. It is ex- tremely precipitous, and its sides and summits are thickly strewed with loose fragments. The ascent is consequently difficult, but it will repay the toil. Standing a little apart from the group, it affords a sublime view of the mountains of Snowdonia, with their lakes and hollows, and of the Irish Sea with the bays of Carnarvon and Cardigan. On the E. side of the mountaui is a pool called Llyn-y-Fod, from which issues one of the tributary THE TWO GLYDEnS — LLTX OGWEX. 119 streams of the river Conway, and on tlie W. side are two lakes of larger extent called Lhjnniau Dmvaunedd. Beneath Moel Siabod, towards the E., is Dolwyddelan, with the rnins of a castle built about the year 500, the birthplace of Llewelyn the Great, and the last stronghold in North Wales that held out against Edward I. The two Gltders, Glyder Fawr, 3275 feet, and Glyder Bach, about 3000 feet. Here also the ascent is difficult and laborious, owing to the spongy, boggy nature of the ground in some parts, and the rugged precipitous crags of other portions, but the perseverance of the adventurous pedestrian will be amply repaid. The prospect from the highest point is sub- limely grand. Here are seen to great advantage Snowdon, the deep vale of Llanberis and its lakes, Nant Frangon, witkthe dark lake of Ogwen, and the still more gloomy waters of L1}ti Idwal, the Carnedds Dafydd and Llewelyn, and the huge triple-headed Trifaen, with its sharp angular projections. The prospect embraces likewise the Merionethshire mountains, the promontory of Lleyn, and the entire island of Anglesey, with the surrounding ocean. Pennant says truly of the Glyder Fawr, " The elements seem to have warred against this mountain ; rains have washed away the soil, lightnings have rent its sur- face, and the winds make it the constant object of their fury." In savage grandeur the Glyder is not surjjassed by any scene in Wales. The two Glyders entirely fill the space between the vale of Llanberis, MymbjT valley, and Nant Frangon. Several other mountains are within reach from Capel Curig, particularly Carnedd Lleicelyn, the height of which is 34b 2 feet, and Carnedd Dafydd, 3430 feet. These, it will be seen, have an elevation little inferior to that of Snowdon, which is computed at 3571 feet. The ascent is rarely undertaken, because it is excessively toilsome, and affords little additional gratification beyond a repetition of the same scenes. Lltn Ogwen is the first object requiring special notice in the road from Capel Curig to Bangor. It is a beautiful sheet of water, about a mile in length, having the turnpike road along its southern shore, and being closely surrounded by the noblest mountains. That which encloses it on the S. side is called Tri- faen, i.e. Three-headed. It is of conical form, with singularly rugged outline, and its aspect is extremely dark and awfid. The lake abounds with eels, and with a peculiar and excellent kind of trout, of a bright yellow hue when in the water, and 120 LLYN IDWAL NANT FRANGON. a fine salmon-colour when cooked. The fishing is open, and good sport may be enjoyed occasionally by the use of a boat, which can be hired. The water from this lake issues in considerable volume, at the western end, through a chasm in the rocks, tumbling in three cataracts down a height of 100 feet, called the Falls of Benrjlog, or the Skull. At this point the stream is crossed by the turnpike road ; and in order to obtain an advantageous view of the falls, it is advisable to descend, at the bridge, to the lowest accessible part of the river-bank. Lltn Idwal is a smaller pool, situated in a dark deep hollow of the Glyder mountains, at a considerable elevation above the falls of Benglog. The lofty, black, perpendicular rocks, by which it is surro;\nded, render it a scene of gloom and horror, sometimes made still more appalling by the violent agitation of the waters, when currents of air produce fierce eddies, and toss up waves resembling in force and height those of the ocean in a storm. The lake is said to be named from a young prince Idwal, son and heir of Owen Gwynedd, who was murdered here by Dunawt, at the instigation of his father, JSTefydd Hardd, to whom the youth had been entrusted by his royal parent. In the rocks which overshadow the pool is seen a terrific chasm called Twl-DA, i.e. the Black Cleft, or, as it is popularly named, the DeviVs Kitchen, extending 450 feet in length, 100 in depth, and only 6 in width. A stream rolls down the cleft, several times broken in its descent by the jutting rocks. After much rain, the water falls in one vast cataract several hundred feet in height. At the bottom are a number of circular holes in the rocks, naturally produced by the falling water. These, which vary in diameter from 2 or 3 inches to 2 or 3 feet, are vulgarly called the DeviVs Pots. Nant Frangon, or the Vale of Beavers, is supposed to be so named from having been formerly a cover for those amphi- bious animals, no longer inhabitants of the country. The valley extends in length about 4 miles, nearly straight, and gradually descending, and its breadth is Little more than half- a-mile. The lower part is marshy, and but partially culti- vated, and the small river Ogwen meanders tlirough the whole length. The road forms a terrace on the N.E. side, at a con- siderable elevation above the river, and beneath the impending crags of Camedd Dafydd. On each side the mountains rise abruptly to a great height, and in their huge piles of rugged, NANT FRANGON. 121 barren crags, present a fine contrast to the verdure in the glen below. The scene has been poetically styled, " beauty sleeping in the lap of horror." By the gradual action of wind and rain, portions of the cHff are sometimes detached, and sent with great force and noise into the valley. In the winter THE devil's kitchen AND FALL OF THE OGWEN. of 1831, a gentleman who was driving through, beheld an immense mass of rock, afterwards estimated at upwards of 1000 tons, fall from the side of the mountain, portions of it rolling across the road into the valley and the river, and other parts settling on the road, which, a minute or two before, he had traversed, rendering it impossible for any carriage to pass until the obstruction was removed. 122 CARNARVON TO BEDDGELERT. CARNARVON TO BEDDGELERT, By Lltn Cwellin. This is the most direct road to Beddgelert, although the longer one by Llaiiberis is more frequented. ON RIGHT 5;= 4 ON LEFT FROM CARNARVON. s^ CARNARVON. H FROM CARNARVON. To Pwllheli, 20 ni. 13 Llanbeblig Church. Cefn Hendref, D. M. Allen, E.sq. Vicarage, Rev. J. C. Penrh6s, Dr. Miller. lu Vincent. Glangwna. Glynafon. s Bettws Garmon. 5 Church dedicated to Germanus, who led the Britons to the celebrated Victoria Alleluiatica at Maes- y-Garmon. Moel Aeliau (or Eilio). Nant Mill, with pic- 7 6 Pias Nant, a shooting turesque Cascade and Bridge. box of Sir R. B. Wil- liams Biilkely, Bart. Castell Cidwm, and Ci Llyu Cwellin, eh Craig Cwm Bychan, a a lake more than a mile portion of the nigged and a half in length. Mynydd Mawr. abounding with trout and red char. "i Tlie " Snowdon Llyn-y-dywarchen, or 4i Si Guide," a roadside the Pool of the Sod, Inn, from which the 1 with aFloating Island. ascent of Snowdon may be made. To Nan tile Mines and 4 Pont Rhydd Dt. 9 Llyns, and the Pass ofDrws-y-Coed. Llyn-y-Gader. H n 3 Pitt's Head, a rock at the roadside, the rugged outlin e of which exhibits a resemblance to the profile of the statesman. Nant Colwyn. i^i\ cr. the river Col- wyn, near its junction with the Gwynant. 10 Farm-house where track strikes off by which the ascent of Snowdon is made from Beddgelert. Moel Hehog, or the . BEDDGELERT. 13 To Capel Curig, 12 m. 1 Hill of Flight. N B. — The branch line of railway between Beddgelert and Tremadoe remains unfinished for want of funds. Half of it has .stOl to be levelled, and all the bridges have to be built. CARNARVON TO BEDDGELERT. 123 The first stage of this route is by the site of the Roman station Segontium, and Llanhehlig, the parish chnrch of Carnarvon. Nothing beyond this demands special observa- tion, until entering the vale of Bethos, and approaching the village of Bettws Gannon, so called from Germanus, the Christian missionary and successful warrior, to whom the church is dedicated. This Germanus, it will be recollected, was the leader of the Britons in the celebrated Alleluia victory, near Mold, a.d. 448. The church in the midst of the valley is a pleasing object, and the mountain scenery on either side is truly sublime. A mile beyond Bettws Garmon, and close to the road is Nant Mill, with its beautiful little cascades, a charming, pic- NANT MILL. turesque object, which has, times without number, worthily employed the pencil of the artist, and has formed the sulyect of exaggerated and oft-quoted eulogies, which we forbear to repeat. The pleasure with which this scene is viewed is probably attributable, in no small degree, to the combination of lovely, picturesque beauty, with the- sublime grandeur of the adjacent mountains, the vast grassy hills of Moel Eilio (or the Frosty Hill), on one hand ; and on the other, the rugged, frowning crags of Mymjdd Mawr (or the Great Mountain). It 124 CARNARVON TO BEDDGELERT. is desirable to walk a few yards from the road, and cross the river, as the fall and the entire scene appear to greater advantage fx'om tlie opposite bank. Llyn Cwellyn is soon afterwards reached, the road passing along its margin. It is a fine sheet of water, about a mile and a half long and half-a-mile broad, abounding A\dth trout, and a species of char, the Salnio alpinus of Linnaeus, called in Welsh Torgoch, or red-belly. This fish is not uncommon in mountain- ous districts, and is found in great nrmibers in "Windermere and other lakes in the north of England. MjTiydd Mawr rises abruptly from the water, its rugged barren front shading the pool, and casting a gloom over the scene. One arm of this bleak and frowning mountain, boldly projecting into the lake, is called Craig Cwm Bychan. It is so precipitous as to be apparently inaccessible, yet on its highest point there are some remains of an ancient British fortification, concerning which tradition relates that it was the stronghold of a re- nowned, gigantic warrior, named Cidwm. Miss Costello, who represents this Cidwm to have been a robber chief, the scourge and dread of the surrounding country, gives the following legend respecting one of his deeds : — " The brother of Constan- tine the Great was passing, at the head of his troops, along this rocky gorge, on his way to meet his mother Helena, when this marauder slew the young prince with an arrow. One of the soldiers was immediately sent forward with the disastrous tidings to the unfortunate mother, whom he met in one of the deep recesses leading to Tan-y-Bwlch. She advanced joyously to meet him, thinking that her son was just at hand, but on hearing the lamentable truth, wrung her hands in anguish and exclaimed, 'Croes awr imi !' — 'Oh! adverse hour for me !' "Whoever inquires the name of the spot in which the sad news reached the bereaved Helena, will be told that that part of the valley is to this day called ' Croes awT. ' " At 7^ miles from Carnarvon, on the left of the road, is a comfortable Inn, called The Snowdon Guide, from which an ascent of the mountain may be commenced ; but this way is more difficult, and on all accounts less eligible than from Llanberis or Capel Cui'ig. Llg n-g-DywarcJten , or the pool of the sod, is a small lake, or tarn, in a mountain hollow, at a short distance from the 126 CARNARVON TO BEDDGELKKT. road ; much noticed by writers on account of what is called a floating island. This, however, apjDcars to be nothing more than a detached piece of bog-earth, six or eight j'ards square. From Llyn-y-Dywarchen there is a road westward to the wild romantic pass of Drws-y-Coed, i.e. the door or passage of the wood ; to the productive slate-quarries of Nantlle ; and to the two beautiful lakes, called Llyniau-Nant-y-llef. A narrow isthmus between these lakej afi'ords an advantageous view of Snowdon ; and this is the spot at Avhich Wilson sketched his admired picture of the mountain. The valley of Nantlle is very picturesque, and deserves to be more generally known, and more frequented by tourists. If a good Inn were erected here, it might, ere long, be as attractive as Llanberis or Beddgelert. In this vicinity Edward I. encamped his army when engaged in subjugating the principality. At a spot called Bala Davlyn (which signifies, the place where a river is discharged into two lakes), a farm-house is shown in which it is said that Edward resided in the summer of 1284, and whence he issued some of his edicts. From the quarries of this neighbourhood, which employ 2000 men, vast quantities of slates are conveyed by railway to Carnarvon. The lakes are too near to the quarries, and too often poached by the miners, to allow of much sport to the amateur angler. The stream which issues from the lakes is called the Llyfni ; it Hows westward, and discharges its waters into Carnarvon bay. Llyn-y-Gader, or the pool of the chair, is a gloomy lake, nearly circular, surrounded by dark and rugged crags, in whose strangely broken outline imagination discovers sundry resem- blances to the forms of various objects, which, however, the unimaginative and incredulous are not always able to discern. At a short distance hence, by the side of the road, is one mass of rock, in which few will fail to observe a tolerable resem- blance to the peculiar and well-knowTi profile of the distin- guished statesman William Pitt, and hence it bears the appellation of Pitt's Head. Here the path commences by which the ascent of Snowdon is made from Beddgelert. The road now descends, along with the river Colwyn, through the pleasant valley Nant Cohcyn to Beddgelert. [Hotels: Royal Goat and Prince Llewelyn.] Distances : Llanberis, 12 ; Tremadoo, 7 ; Carnarvon, 13 ; Tan-y-Bwlch (old road), 10. This picturesque village is situated on a small verdant level, at the junction of three vales, and closely surrounded by- mountains. A spacious and well- managed Hotel, The Royal Goat, with an excellent coffee-room, affords ac- commodation to a large number of guests, but in the height of the season it is not unfrequently excessively crowded. -' Every effort, however, should be made to visit a place so agreeable in itself, and so conveniently situated for excursions. The streams which flow through Nant Gwynant and Nant Colwyn form a jimction immediately 128 BEDDGELERT. below tlie ivy-mantled bridge by which the village is entered, and the river which their union forms, assuming the name of GlashTi, flows onward through the romantic pass of Aber- glaslyn, and forms a boundary between the counties of Carnarvon and Merioneth, until it discharges itself in the estuary of Traeth-mawr, below Tremadoc. The parish of Beddgelert is extensive, and has a popula- tion of 1375, of whom 1066 are in Carnarvonshire, and 309 in ^Merionethshire. The church, formerly conventual, and belonging to a priory of Augustines, is small but neat, and rather lofty in comparison with others in these parts. Of the priory buildings no vestige remains ; but, from the appear- ance of some parts of the church, it is inferred that portions of the ruins have been used at difi'erent times in the repairs of the more modem structure. Tradition thus relates the affecting incident which is said to have originated the name of the place : — Llewehm the Great, vdth his familj^, had a residence here during the hunting season. One day, while engaged in the chase, the prince was surprised by the absence of his favourite hound Gelert, which he had received as a present from his father-in-law, King John. On returning, he was met by his dog, hastening to him with more than ordi- nary manifestation of pleasure. Observing, however, that the animal's jaws were besmeared with blood, he became alarmed, and, rushing to the house, he there found his infant's cradle overturned, and the ground about it bloody. Rashly con- cluding that the hoimd had killed his child, he drew his sword and slew the poor animal while in the act of caressing bis master. Soon afterwards, on removing the cradle, he foimd beneath it his child alive, unhurt, and sleeping by the side of a dead wolf. The truth was at once apparent. During the absence of the family, a wolf had entered the house, and had been destroyed by the faithful dog in time to prevent its doing injury to the sleeping infant. The prince, deeply affected by the incident, carefully buried his favourite, thus slaiu by his own hand, and built a tomb over his grave. Hence the place is still called Bedd-Gelert, or the grave of Gelert. The poem suggested by this legend, written by the Hon. "W. R. Spencer, is well known. There is a Welsh saying which seems to allude to the story : " He repents as much as the man who killed his dog ;" and this might lead BEDDGELERT. 129 one to suppose that the sad tale is indeed true. But then the same story, with slight variations, is told in different places, and concerning different persons. It is said to be engraved on a rock at Limerick ; it is told in an old English romance ; it is repeated in France ; and it is the subject of a Persian drama ! Who, then, can be very confident in its truth ? gelert's grave. The majestic mountain on the W., whose dark towering cliffs immediately overhang the village, is Moel Hebog, or the hill of the hawk, one of the recesses of which is shown as the hiding-place of Owen Glyndwr. In a bog on this moimtain was found, in 1784, a very curious, elaborately- wrought brass shield, which is still preserved, and is pronounced to be undoubtedly of Eoman construction. The following geological hint, in the handwriting of Professor Buckland, was framed and at one time suspended in the hotel : — " Notice to Geologists. " At Pont Aberglasljm, 100 yards below the bridge, on the right bank of the river, and 20 feet above the road, see a good example of the furrows, fluting, and striae on rounded and polished surfaces of the rock, which Agassiz |-efers to the action of glaciers. See many similar effects on the left or S.W. aide of the Pass and Lake of Llanberis. (Signed) " William Buckland. " October, 6, 1841." 130 PARS OF ABERGLASLTN. There are some copper-mines in the neighbourhood, but the works are not conducted with much energy or success. At a few hundred yards from the hotel there are some pretty cascades on the river Colwyn. Turning to the left, after crossing the village bridge, and proceeding a hundred yards on the Carnarvon road, a gate will be observed opening on a path which leads across a meadow to the river-side. It is a scene of much beauty, an agreeable object for a short and leisurely stroll. Coaches, running between Llanberis and Tremadoc, pass through this village daily during the greater part of the year, and the hotel is well provided with all facili- ties for travelling. The Pass of Aberglasltn, which extends from a little below Beddgelert to the bridge called Pont Aberglaslyn, a mile and a half from the village, is certainly one of the most remarkable and romantic scenes in North Wales. The stream, which here forms the boundary between the counties of Car- narvon and ]\Ierioneth, rapidly descends over a rocky channel, the mountains rising abruptly from its banks, and forming nearly nerpendicular walls to the height of 700 feet. The road, just wide enough for two carriages, pursues the windings of the river, upon its western side, overhung by dark and craggy rocks, whose opposing and precipitous fronts indicate, by the exact correspondence of their strata, that they have been rent asunder by sudden and violent convulsion. The terrific grandeur of the scene powerfully arrests and excites the imagination. In the midst of this sublime pass a rock is pointed out which bears the name of the Chair of Rhijs Goch O'l-yri, the celebrated mountain bard, contemporary with Owen GljTidwr. He had mth difficulty escaped tlie vengeance of the English, who charged him with the dire offence of having, by his compositions, insjjired the Welsh with the love of liberty, and animated them to maintain their long and gallant struggle to throw off the galling Saxon yoke. Towards the close of his long life he retreated to this neighbourhood, and making this stone his daily resort, here he mused, composed, and sang. He died, it is said, in the year 1420, and was in- terred in the holy ground at Beddgelert. Pont Aberglaslyn is the bridge which crosses the stream, l|- mile from Beddgelert, connecting the two counties, and forming the principal communication between them. It is a PONT ABERGLASLYN. TREMADOC AND PORTMADOC. 131 single arch, stretching from rock to rock, at no very great elevation above the river ; whose waters, confined within a narrow channel, here make a boisterous descent, and dash impetuously against the unyielding masses that lie in wild confusion in their course. In the structure itself there is nothing extraordinary, but its position is peculiarly striking, and every part of the surrounding scenery is of surpassing grandeur. At this spot, the tourist intending to enter Merionethshire (for Dolgelly, etc.) proceeds by coach to Tremadoc(5Jmiles distant, and the nearest railway station for the south), and thence per railway. Barmouth is the junction for Dolgelly. A mountainous excursion may be made from Beddgelert to Tan-y-bwlch and Festiniog, the former being 9 miles and the latter 1 2 miles distant. These places may also be reached by the branch-line of the Cambrian Eailway from Tremadoc and Portmadoc. Tremadoc and Portmadoc. [Hotels: Royal and Madock's Arms ; Ship and Commercial.] 7 miles from Beddgelert. Railway to Beddgelert not completed. ' Tremadoc, i.e. Madock's town, is built at the western extremity of the reclaimed land, and near the base of a lofty rock. It is quadrangular, and contains a commodious market- place, a large assembly-room used both as a school and a town-hall, good hotels, a church with a lofty spire, and a neat Dissenting chapel. Portmadoc, in like manner, is a recent erection, and has become a harbour of considerable importance, accessible to vessels of 300 tons burthen. It has spacious quays and a lively trade. Great quantities of slates from the Festiniog quarries, and some copper-ore from neighbouring mines, are exported here. Here is witnessed the successful result of a noble enter- prise, accomplished, in spite of formidable difficulties and temporary disappointments, by the late William Alexander Madocks, Esq. A vast extent of land, now under cultivation, was formerly a sandy marsh, subject to the influence of the tides, called Traeth-mawr, or the great sand. This has been 132 PORTMADOC TO PWLLHELI. gained from the sea, secured Ly emLaukment, and rendered productive of a considerable income. A scheme for this pur- pose was long ago suggested by Sir John Wjmne of Gw-j^dir, who sought the assistance of his countryman, Sir Hugh Myddelton ; but no attempt was made to carry it into execu- tion until the beginning of the present century. Mr. ]\Iadocks first succeeded in euclosing 2000 acres on the western side of the river, then called Penmorfa Marsh ; and he subsequently constructed an embankment across the estuary, one mile in length, by means of which more than 6000 additional acres were secured. The sum expended in these works is stated to have exceeded £100,000. In the vicinity of Tremadoc is Tan-yr-Allt surrounded by plantations, and near to the port is Morfa Lodge, two mansions erected by Mr. Madocks. One mile north of Tremadoc is the ancient and romantically situ- ated village of Penmorfa. From the great embankment which connects the counties of Carnarvon and Merioneth, especially about midway, the view of the encircling mountains is truly magnificent. PORTMADOC TO PWLLHELI. By Rail. Portmadoc and Carnarvon are the two points from which Pwllheli may be reached most conveniently. The distance is the same in both cases, viz. 13 nules, and the stations are as follow : — Feom Portmadoc. Criccieth ... 5 Miles. Afon Wen . . 8 „ PwlIheU . . 13 „ Feom Carnaevon. Llanwndna. j Brynkir. Groeslon. Ynys. Pengyroes — Hotels: Goat; Chwilog. Victoria. Afon Wen. Pant Glas. Pwllheli DENBIGHSHIRE. 133 DENBIGHSHIRE. This county is intersected by the Denbigh, Ruthin, and Corwen Railway, extending southwards from Rhyl, and also by the Great Western, vid Chester, Wrexham, Ruabon, and Llangollen. It was, till lately, the most populous county of North Wales, but now ranks second to Carnarvon. A con- siderable part of the county is parallel with Flintshire, while another large portion extends much farther to the S. and S.E. On the N. it borders on the Irish Sea ; the N.E. side is contiguous to Flintshire and Cheshire, and the S.E. to Shropshire ; from S. to N.W. it is successively bounded by the three counties of Montgomery, Merioneth, and Carnarvon, from the last of which it is separated by the river Conway, but not accurately, as portions of Carnarvonshire are on the E. side of the river. The length of the county is commonly stated to be nearly 50 miles, and its breadth 18 or 20 ; but, in fact, the shape is too ii'regular to allow of anything like accuracy in such measurement. Denbighshire has much of the rugged and mountainous character of Wales, though soft- ened in many parts by fertility and beauty, especially in the vales of Clwyd and Llangollen, and a large tract about Wrex- ham. Some districts are productive of valuable nainerals, particularly iron-ore of excellent quality, coal iu great abimd- ance, limestone and slate. The rivers of Denbighshire are the following : the Dee, entering from Merionethshire, passes from W. to E. by the Vale of Llangollen ; the Clwyd, taking its rise S.W. of Ruthin, flows past that town, through the entire length of the vale to which it gives name, and enters Flint- shire near St. Asaph ; the Elwy waters the northern portion of the county, and joining the Clwyd near Rhuddlan, the imited stream enters the sea at Rhyl ; the Conway is, through a great part of its course, a boundary between this county and Car- narvonshire, having, however, both its rise and its outlet in the latter county. To these rivers the Aled, the Alyn, the Alwen, the Ceiriog, and many smaller streams, are tributary. The principal mountaim are those which rise above the Vale of Clwj'd ; a part of the Berwyn range at the junction with Merionethshire ; and a cluster of low dreary hills towards the west, extending over many miles, called Mynydd Hirathog. 1 34 VALE OF CLWTD. At the period of the Roman invasion tins district formed a part of the territory of the Ordovices ; under the Romans it was included in Venedotia, one of the minor divisions of Britannia Secunda ; during the Saxon Heptarchy it was ex- posed to the attacks and incursions of the Mercians, but the inhabitants successfully repelled the invaders, and thrust them entirely out of the extensive district which lies between the rivers Conway and Dee. Antiquarian remains in this county include many objects of great interest, as the ruined castles at Denbigh, Ruthin, Holt, and Llangollen ; Valle Crucis Abbey and Eliseg's Pillar near Llangollen ; tiimuli in the parish of Llanarmon ; vestiges of J5ritish forts and encampments near Ruabon, St. George, and Abergele ; and portions of Offa's Dyke and Watt's Dyke near the S.E. extremity. The population in 1871 amounted to 104,266. The members of Parliament are two for the county, and one for the united boroughs of Denbigh, Wrexham, Holt, and Ruthin. Miles from Rhyl. llj Denbigh. 18 Ruthin. 30 Corwen. 43 Bala. 60 Dolgelly. The following are the main stations on the Denbigh, Ruthin, and Corwen Railway, which traverses the county by the Vale of Clwyd : — Miles from Rhyl. Rhyl (Chester and Holy- head line). li Foryd. sl Rhuddlan. 6 St. Asaph. Si Trefnant. The portion of the line by the side of Lake Bala is now completed. A regular coach runs between Bala and Festiniog. Vale of Clwyd. This renowned valley has been so highly, and even extra- vagantly eulogised, that strangers may find its beauties fail to satisfy the anticipations with which they approach. It pre- sents a scene of rich cultivation and tranquU beauty, but has no features of grandeur and sublimity ; and for high and romantic interest is not to be compared with the glens and valleys in the counties of Merioneth, Carnarvon, Cardigan, and Glamorgan. The tourist with moderate expectations will, VALE OF CLWYD. 135 however, find mi;cli to gratify and delight. The Welsh name Dyffryn Chcyd, the Vale of the Flat, accurately expresses its general character. Watered through its whole length by the river Clwyd, it extends from about 4 miles S. of Ruthin, in a N.W. direction, to the coast of Flintshire, about 24 miles ; whUe in breadth it varies from about 2 miles to 6 or 7. It is bounded on both sides by hills of moderate height, those on the E. side being the most lofty and conspicuous. At the S. it is closed in by mountains, and at the N. it is open to the sea. The laud which lies near to the river is level, cultivated, and fertile, in most parts producing corn of good quality. But the liability to floods, which are sometimes very destructive, material!}' reduces the value of the land. The plain and portions of the slopes are well wooded, and the peaceful cottages and cheerful homesteads suggest ideas of serenity, comfort, and content- ment. Elegant villas, and in some instances stately mansions, grace the river's side, or rej)ose in the shelter of the neighbour- ing hills. The roads are, for the most part, on a low level, affording only occasional glimpses of the river. To obtain a full view of the valley, it is desirable to ascend some of the neighbouring heights ; or portions of it may be seen to ad- vantage from the castle of Denbigh and the cathedral of St. Asaph. Burke, in his " Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature," thus compares the vales of England to those of Wales, and discriminates the peculiar features of the most celebrated amongst the latter : — " In England, few are the vales remarkable for picturesque effect. They are rich in wood, in meadow, in animals, and in buildings ; but they are destitute, for the most part, of rocks, ruins, and mountains. None of them, therefore, can compare with the vales of Clwyd, Llangollen, or Ffestiniog ; and they possess little which will enable them to stand in competition with those of the Usk, Towy, and Glamorgan. Of these the Clwyd is the most rich ; Llangollen the most picturesque ; Festiniog the most abounding in beautiful and sublime combination ; the Gla- morgan the most rural ; the Usk the most graceful ; and the Towy by far the most adapted for a tranquil and elegant retirement." The now peaceful vale of Clwyd has been the scene of 136 THE RIVER CLWTD. warfare and carnage. In the year 1115a dreadful conflict was obstinately maintained here between Howel ap Meredith and Howel ap Ithel, which, after great slaughter on both sides, terminated in favour of the latter. In 1164, David ap Owen having successfully invaded Flintshire, and carried away many of its chief men, drove their cattle into Dyffryn Clwyd. Other memorable historical incidents are mentioned in connection with the towns situated in the valley, witli which they are more directly associated. The Eiver Clwyd rises in Bronbanog hills, S.W. of Ruthin, and, until it reaches that town, flows through a narrow valley which afterwards extends in breadth. In passing along the vale to which the river gives its name, it receives accessions from several minor streams ; and below St. Asaph its volume of water is greatly augmented by the confluence of the Elwy, with which it disputes the right of giving name to the re- mainder of its coiu'se ; that of the 'Ehvj is, however, sanctioned by the Ordnance map, and is generally preferred by the best authorities. About three miles below Rhuddlan the united streams flow into the Irish Sea between Rhyl and Abergele ; the Clwyd having had a course which, inclusive of its ser- pentine windings, may be estimated at about 30 miles. The iniluence of the tide extends only as far as Rhuddlan, and to that place the river is navigable by fiat-bottomed boats of 70 tons. The charms of the river Chvyd are worthily celebrated in the well-known sonnet by Mrs. Hemans : — " O Cambrian river 1 ■with slow music gliding, By pastoral hills, old woods, and ruined towers ; Now 'midst thy reeds and golden willows liiding. Now gleaming forth by some rich bank of flowers ; Long flowed the current of my life's clear hours Onward with thine, whose voice yet haunts my dream, Though time and change, and other mightier powers, Far from thy side have borne me. Thou smooth stream I Art winding stiU thy sunny meads along, Murm'ring to cottage and grey hall thy song. Low, sweet, unchanged 1 My being's tide hath passed Through rocks and storms ; yet will I not complain. If thus wrought free and pure from earthly stain, Brightly its waves may reach their parent deep at last." The Vale of Clwyd Railway passes near Rhuddlan Castle, which is well seen from the line. St. Asaph is close on the riglit and Denbigh Castle nearly a mile from the station. RHUDDLAN. 137 RHUDDLAN, [Hotels : Black ; New.] anciently a place of magnitude and importance, retains nc features of its original character except its ruined castle, and a few other interesting remains of antiquity. It is situated in. a low flat district of the county of Flint, near to the con- fluence of the rivers Clw^d and Elwy, and about 3 miles from their outlet in the Irish Channel. The stream, below the junction of the two rivers, is sometimes called the Clwyd, but more generally, and, as it appears, more properly, the Elwy. It is navigable as high as Khuddlan by small vessels ; and here it is crossed by a good bridge of two arches, built or repaired in 1595 ; one of the battlements of which bears the sculptured arms of Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph. The population of the parish of Rhuddlan, which includes the chapelry of Rhyl, and some other townships, is 4397; of the parliamentary borough, 1406. It is one of the boroughs contributory to Flint in the election of one M.P. Edward I. gave to Rhuddlan the privileges of a free borough, with various immunities, designing thereby to reconcile the Welsh to the ascendency of their conquerors. It was here that he succeeded in the politic stratagem for inducing the Welsh to acknowledge his infant son, born at Carnarvon, as Prince of Wales. Here also was passed the celebrated law, caUed the Statute of Rhuddlan, which, after reciting many curious particulars relative to Welsh customs previous to Edward's conquest, enacted new regulations for the govern- ment of Wales. There is still standing a part of the wall of the house in which Edward held his council or parliament. This old wall has been wrought into the gable of a row of small houses ; and affixed to it is a tablet, with the following inscription : — " This fragment Is the remains of the BuDding Where King Edward the First Held his Parliament, A. D. 1283, In which passed the statute of Rhuddlan, yecuring To the Principality of Wales Its Judicial Rights And Indeoendence." 138 RHUDDLAN. Between the town and the sea is an extensive tract of low land called Morfa Rhuddlan, i.e. the JMarsh of Rhuddlan, where, in the year 795, a dreadful battle was fought, between the Saxons under Offa, king of Mercia, and the Welsh under Caradoc, in which the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated with great slaughter. All who were made prisoners were crueDy and indiscriminately put to death, and nearly all who escaped from the hands of the Saxons perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tide. The popular Welsh air, Alorfa Rhuddlan, distinguished by the plaintive sweetness of its melody, was composed in commemoration of this disas- trous event. Rhuddlan Castle is a quadrangvdar structure of red stone, with six massive towers flanking lofty curtain-walls. It has evidently been a fortress of great strength, with little of architectural beauty or grandeur. The fosse, easily traced, enclosed a large area, and within tliis was a Priory of Domini- cans, some relics of which, as well as other antiquities, are to be seen in Ehuddlan church. Archaeologists are not agreed as to the period at which this castle was erected. Two respectable authorities, Powell and Camden, ascribe it to Llewelyn-ap-Sitsyllt, who reigned in Wales at the commence- ment of the 11th century, and made this the place of his residence. In 1063, three years prior to the Norman Conquest, when in the possession of Gryffydd-ab-Llewelyn, Prince of North Wales, it was attacked and burned by Harold of Eng- land. Subsequently, being restored, it became the scene of many interesting historical events, proving that, by both Normans and Britons, the possession of this fortress was deemed of great importance. In 1399 it was seized by the Earl of Northumberland, previous to the deposition of Richard n., who was brought hither on his way to Flint, where he was treacherously delivered into the power of his great rival, Bolingbroke. In the civil wars Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the King, but was surrendered to Gen. Mytton in 1646 ; and soon afterwards, by order of the Parliament, it was dismantled. The Royal Eisteddfod, or meeting of bards, was held here in the autumn of 1850. Bodryddan, nearly 2 miles from Rhuddlan, is the seat of William Shipley Conwy, Esq., and has been held by the family of Conwy from the days of Edward I. Dr. Slupley, DTSERTH. 13& Dean of St. Asaph, whose daughter was married to Bishop Heber, resided here, and was grandfather to the present pioprietor. It is a secluded mansion in the Elizabethan style, stored with magnificent carved furniture from Copenhagen. Pengwern, the seat of the Hon. T. Pryce Lloyd, is situated towards the west, at a short distance from Ehuddlan. The mansion was built by Sir Edward Lloyd, Bart., great-uncle of the present venerable proprietor. The family have been distinguished, through many generations, by their almost boundless hospitality, and by enlightened efforts to promote the improvement and welfare of the surrounding population. About 2 miles to the east of Ehuddlan is the village of DYSERTH, [Hotel : The Red Lion. Four miles from Rhyl or St. Asaph.] worthy of a visit on account of its castle, and the beauti- ful view of the Vale of Clwyd to be obtained from the height on which it. stands. The castle is of the early Norman cha- racter, but the remnants are too slender to afford an idea of its original extent and details. The site is particularly well chosen, commanding as it does a magnificent view of the Vale of Clwyd. It is a fortress of great antiquity. Henry III. strengthened it in 1241, but in 1261 it was besieged and nearly demolished by Llewelyn the Great. Einion, a dis- tinguished Welshman, having been slain here, a sculptured cross was erected to his memory, of which the shaft now forms the stile of Dyserth Churchyard, where is another cross of curious workmanship and unknown antiquity. One mile from Dyserth, in the parish of Cwm, is a beautiful cascade, upon a small stream which rises at a spring called Ffynnon Asa, or St. Asaph's Well, once accoimted sacred, and having many votaries, like that of St. Winefred at Holywell. It is only a few minutes' walk from the hotel to the celebrated Talargoch Mines, which are the richest of the kind in Wales. Several thousands of tons of lead-ore are extracted annually. Newmarket is a small town about 4 miles E. from Ehuddlan, formerly, like the town of the same name in England, a place of racing celebrity, and still of some import- ance on account of its large markets and fairs. It is noticed 140 ST. ASAPH. here chiefly because of a remarkable carnedd, or tumulus, in the neighbourhood, one of the largest in North Wales. It covers nearly an acre of ground, on the summit of a hill called Cop-y7'-Leni, Beneath this hill, on the N., is Golden Grove, the residence of JVlrs. Morgan, built in 1578, and much im- proved in modern times. In the churchyard of Newmarket there is a stone cross of great antiquity. In this neighbour- hood was found, some years since, a golden torques of great weight and much beauty, which was purchased by the Marquis of Westminster for ^400. ST. ASAPH. [Hotel: The Plough and Bodelwyddan Arms. Six miles from Rhyl.] This city is small, but agreeably situated on a pleasant eminence, near the northern termination of the fertile Vale of Clwyd, between the rivers Elwy and Clwyd, and not far from their confluence. From the former of these streams it derives its British name Llanehvy. There is a handsome bridge across each river. The hill on which the city stands is called Bryn Paulin, from having been made a place of encampment by Pauliuus, a Roman general, on his way to the island of Mona. The see is ancient, having been established in the middle of the sixth century by Kentigern, otherwise called St. Mungo, Bishop of Glasgow. Being driven from the north by persecu- tion, and seeking refuge here, he was protected by Cadwallon, who aided him in building a church, and founding a college or monastery, in this place. Being recalled to his original charge, he nominated as his successor a pious scholar named Asa or Asaph, from whom both the church and town received their designation. Whether Kentigern assumed the title of bishop while here is not known, but there is evidence that Asaph certainly did, and that, dying in 596, he was interred in his own cathedral. The first building, which was of wood, was consumed by fire in 1282. A more substantial edifice was soon afterwards erected by Bishop Anian, and this was nearly destroyed during the wars of Owen Glyndwr. It was partially rebuilt by Bishop Redman, about 1480, the choir remaining unfinished until about 1770, when it was completed ST. ASAPH. 141 by the Dean and Chapter. In the Parliamentary wars the edifice was desecrated, and greatly injured, being used as a barrack and hospital for the military, and even as an office and stable for the postmaster. The present Cathedral now appears with the restorations (1867-8) of Sir Gilbert Scott. It is the smallest British Cathe- dral, measuring in length only 182 feet, and 68 across the nave. The usual cruciform plan is followed out with central tower. The nave is of five bays, and has aisles — an addition wanting in the rest of the church. The S. wing formed the lady chapel, and is now the chapter house. The choir is lighted by a large window — an imitation of one at Tintern. Of the monuments, the following are worthy of notice : an altar-tomb, supporting a recumbent figure in episcopal robes, in memory of Bishop Dafydd ap Owain, who died in 1502 ; a full-length figTire of the late Dean Shipley, in white marble, raised by a subscription of .£600 ; an altar-tomb which records the decease of Bishop Luxmore in 1830 ; and a mural tablet to the memory of the gifted poetess Felicia Hemans, who re- sided during a great portion of her life at Bronwylfa and Rhyllon, near St. Asaph, and who died in Dublin, May 16th, 1835, aged 41. Among the prelates of this diocese may be especially named Bishop William Morgan, an eminent linguist, the principal translator of the Welsh Bible printed in 1588, and a contributor to the English version commonly called Queen Elizabeth's Bible ; Dr. Isaac Barrow, who founded an alms- house for eight poor widows, and who educated his nephew of the same name, distinguished as a mathematician inferior only to his friend Sir Isaac Newton ; Dr. William Beveridge, eminently devout, zealous, and useful, and frequently de- signated " the apostolic bishop," and " the restorer of primitive piety ;" and Dr. Samuel Horsley, of great celebrity as an Oriental scholar and biblical critic. From the summit of the cathedral tower a good view is obtained of the vale of Clwyd, with the castles of Denbigh and Ehuddlan, and a long line of searcoast, a view thus described by Robert Montgomery : — " thy heart might beat In thriUing answer to the strain I sing, Hadst thou beside me, from the sacred tcwer. Betkeld the beauteous vale : or ere I left. 142 BODELWTDDAN CASTLE. One long, enamoured, and delicious gaze It bade me fasten on the faultless scene ; The sunshine in its dreaming calm reposed On tree and mountain ; cot and castle gleamed, And field and flower their blending graces showed ; But when the breeze, with sudden life, arose, How richly all the stirring landscape shined ! Till the glad meads like emerald sunshine glanced. So lustrously the living verdure played." The episcopal palace is a large modern structure, a little to the west of the cathedral, overlooking the Ehvy. The deanery, about a quarter of a mile distant, is also new, buUl by the late Dr. Luxmore, dean. The parochial church, dedi- cated to St. Asaph and St. Kentigern, is situated at the foot of the hill of which the cathedral occupies the summit. It is small, and without a tower. The rivers in the neighbour- hood are favourite resorts of anglers, and fish are found in great abundance and variety. St. Asaph is a parliamentary borough, contributory to the Flint district. Pop. — parish, 3592 ; city and borough, 2063. Bronwylfa and Rhtllon, both near St. Asaph, and distant from each other not more than a quarter of a mile, are deserving of notice as having been, at different times, the abodes of Mrs. Hemans, to whose relative. Col. Browne, they now belong. BoDELWYDDAN is an elegant modern castellated mansion, the residence of Sir Hugh Williams, Bart. The name signifies " the abode of the chieftain!^ The house was greatly enlarged and improved by the father of the present proprietor. It stands on an eminence, and commands an extensive view of the sea at Rhyl on the one hand, and the Vale of Clwyd on the other. The park is richly wooded, and well stocked with deer ; the gardens are laid out with mucli taste, and the hot- houses are surpassed by few. Access is gi-anted to respectable strangers on prescribed days. Tlie estate was purcliased from an old family of the name of Humphreys, by tlie celebrated Sir William Williams, who, in the time of Charles II., was Speaker of the House of Commons ; in the following reign, Solicitor-General ; and afterwards a Welsh judge.* A mag- * When on the circuit, with more talent than wealth, having on one occa- sion danced with a daughter of Watkin Kyffin, Esq., a gentleman of very large LLANNERCH CEFN, 143 nificent chiirch has lately been erected here, at the expense of the Dowager Lady Willoughby-de Broke, and is one of the most perfect specimens of ecclesiastical architectui'e in the kingdom. Llannerch (Whitehall Dod, Esq.) is one of the oldest gentlemen's seats in the Vale of Clwyd, a little S. of St. Asaph. The house was built in the 1 6th century, but altered, in bad taste, in 1773, from the Elizabethan gabled roof to the flat Italian style. It was possessed in the latter part of the 17th century by Robert Davies, a celebrated naturalist and antiquary, who left here a choice collection of Welsh manuscripts. Cefn, the seat of Mrs. Williams Wynne, has a beautiful situation on the banks of the Elwy, to the west of the rail- way between St. Asaph and Trefnant. The neighbourhood is worthy of being explored, on account of its deep picturesque glens, its holy well, and its fossiliferous caverns ; and it is pre- sumed that few tourists, if any, will regret the time and trouble thus expended. To these scenes the biographer of Mrs. Ilemans refers in the following terms : — "Those who only know the neighboiirhood of St. Asaph from travelling along its highwaj-s, can be little aware how much delightful scenery is attainable within walks of two or three miles' distance from Mrs. Hemans's residence. The placid beauty of the Clwyd, and the wilder graces of its sister stream the Elwy, particularly in the vicinity of ' Our Lady's Well,' and the interesting rocks and caves at Cefn, are Little known to general tourists ; though by the lovers of her poetry it will be remembered how sweetly she has apostrophised the ' Fount of the chapel, with ages grey ! ' * property, he succeeded in winning the affections of the lady, who was an only child. The father, being asked to consent to a marriage, sternly inquired, " What have you ? " The young lawyer replied, " I have a tongue and a gmun." He obtained the lady's hand, inherited the large property, and founded the distinguished families of Wynnstay, Penbedw, and B6deh7yddan. * A beautiful poem amongst the Miscellaneous Pieces by Mrs. Hemar^s uk long for insertion here, of which the last stanza is as follows : — " Fount of the chapel, with ages grey ! Thou art springing freshly amidst decay ; Thy rites are closed, and thy cross lies low, And the changeful hours breathe o'er thee now r 1 44 DENBIGH. and how tenderly, amidst far different scenes, lier thoughts reverted to the ' Cambrian river, with slow music gliding.' " * " Our Lad if s Well" ox Ffijnnon Faer,\9, a fine spring, enclosed within an angular wall,formerly roofed. The water, which flows copiously, was long and generally deemed sacred, and reputed to possess powerful, if not miraculous, efficiency in the removal of bodily diseases. Near to the spring are the ruins of a small cruciform chapel, of the 1 5th century, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, which originally enclosed the well. The limestone rocks are perforated in different directions with magnificent caverns of great extent. In some parts of them the roof is more than 40 feet in height ; and in one place, at the base of the rock near the river Elwy, there is a natural arch 36 feet high, which extends in depth more than 60 feet. From these caverns have been removed at different times im- mense quantities of bones and bone-dust ; and various fossil remains have been discovered, which have been examined and described by Professor Buckland. The holy well and caves, with the beautiful vale of the Elwy, may be made the object of an excursion from Denbigh as well as St. Asaph. DENBIGH, [Eotels: Crown; Bull.] the county town, occupies a conspicuous situation at about the centre of the vale, on the W. of the river Clwyd, and on the banks of the Ilshod, one of its tributaries. It is placed on a steep acclivity, overhung by a limestone rock, and crowned by the ruins of its noble castle, whence there is an extensive Yet if at thine altar one holy thought In man's deep spirit of old hath wrought ; If peace to the mourner hath here been given, Or prayer, from a chastened heart, to Heaven — Be the spot still hallowed while Time shall reign, Who hath made thee Nature's own again ! " * Sonnet to the river Olwyd, quoted in a preceding page. DENBIGH. 145 prospect of tlie vale of Clwyd, with RutkL. on the one hand and St. Asaph on the other, and the blue tops of the monntaina environing the whole. The tract of country in which Denbigh is situated being anciently called Rhos, the old British appel- lation of the tower and castle is Castell-Caled-Fryn-yn-Rh6s, i.e. the castle on the craggy hill in Rhos. The modem Welsh name is I) inbech, which, signifies a small hill-fort. The town, extending down the slope of the hill and along a part of its base, consists of three leading streets, whence other smaller ones diverge. It contains a spacious market-place, a com- modious town-hall, and several elegant residences. The prin- cipal tradesmen are tanners, glovers, and shoemakers, whose productions are chiefly sent to London for exportation ; but Denbigh is more a place of pleasant retirement than of com- mercial importance. In dry seasons it is inadequately supplied with v/ater, as the springs of the neighbourhood faU, with the exception of one at the castle, called the Goblin Well. In 1871 the population of the borough amounted to upwards of 6000. In conjunction with the boroughs of Ruthin, Wrexham, and Holt, as contributories, it sends one repre- sentative to the House of Commons. It is also a polling- place for the county. Quarter-sessions are held here alter- nately with lluthin. Denbigh was anciently of great military importance, David, brother of tlie last Llewelyn, summoned the Welsh chieftaii.'s to meet liini here, in order to form a coalition against the English. After his defeat, the lordship was granted by Edward I. to Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, who built the castle and walled the town. Edward III. granted the castle and lordship to the Mortimer family, and when they sub- sequently reverted to the crown, Elizabeth bestowed them on her favourite, Dudley, Earl of Leicester. In 1645 Charles I. halted here, and remained two or three nights, after his retreat from Chester. In 1646 the castle was valiantly defended for the King by Col. William Salusbury, but was finally sur- rendered to the Parliamentary army under Gen. Mytton. At the Restoration it was demolished. The ruins of this vener- able structure are extensive, covering the summit of the craggy hill, one side of which is boldly precipitous. The walls are of singular construction, having been grouted, or formed of two thick parallel walls, with the intervening space filled up L K 146 DENBIGH CASTLE. with stones and hot cement, which consolidated the whole into one mass, of such strength as must have rendered the fortress nea-ly impregnable. DENBIGH CASTLE. Denbigh has been often compared to Stirling, and even to Edinburgh ; but it is certain that few North Britons, or others who may be acquainted with those romantic and beautiful towns, will acknowledge much resemblance. Churchyard says, the town and castle " May compare With any one in Wales, where'er they are ; " and undoubtedly their aspect is picturesque and imposing. A triennial meeting of Welsh bards, called the Eisteddfod, was held here in 1828. That of 1850 was held at the neigh- bouring castle of Ehuddlan, and that of 1860 in Denbigh Castle again. An endowed charity, called the Blue-coat School, clothes and educates 24 boys. A Free Grammar School was founded by subscription in 1727. There are likewise commodious buildings for a National School, and a British School. A Dispensary, and other charities, are liberally supported. A large building has been erected, at a cost of £27,000, as a Lunatic Asylum for North Wales. It was opened for the DENBIGH — GWAENTNOG. 1 4 7 reception of patients in 1848. Wednesday and Saturday are market-days, and there are six annual fairs. The Parish Church is at Whitcliiircli, about a mile distant, on the road to Ruthin. In the porch is a monumental brass, with representations of Richard Myddelton of Gwaenynog, and Jane his wife, with nine sons and seven daughters, all kneel- ing. He was governor of Denbigh Castle in the reigns of Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth. Of his sons, several were highly distinguished. William, the third son, acquired re- nown as a naval captain, and as a poet ; Thomas, the fourth son, became Lord Mayor of London, and founder of the family of Chirk Castle ; and Hugh, the sixth, was the enterprising projector of the New River from Hertfordshire to London. The church contains some other monuments worthy of notice. Excepting for burials, and a special service at Easter, this church is no longer used, and it is in a neglected and dilapi- dated condition. A new church in the town is found more convenient for the attendance of the parishioners, and divine service is likewise conducted in the ancient chapel of the castle, now made a chapel of ease. Near to it is the ruin, or rather the unfinished and neglected shell of a large church, begun by the Earl of Leicester, but never completed. All the principal bodies of Dissenters have commodious places of worship. In the environs of Denbigh, which abound with beautiful scenery, there are many residences of the gentry, and other objects of interest, some of which shall be briefly noticed. GwAENTNOG, a little more than a mile from Denbigh, is the ancient seat of the senior branch of the Myddelton family, and now the abode of the Rev. Robert Myddelton. It is surrounded by beautiful woods, which attracted the visits of Dr. Samuel Johnson during his residence with Mrs. Piozzi. To his me- mory a monument, consisting of a tall Grecian urn resting on a square pedestal, was erected by Dr. Myddelton, who then resided here. It bears the following inscription : — " This spot was often digmified by the presence of Samuel Johnson, LL.D., whose moral writings, exactly conformable to the precepts of Christianity, give aidour to virtue, and confidence to truth." Over the door of a cottage on the estate are the following lines, composed by the learned lexicographer : — 1 48 BRYNBELLA NANTGLTN LLEWENNT HALL. " Around this peaceful cot, this humble shed, If health, if confidence, if virtue tread, Though no proud coluuin grace the gaudy door, Where sculptured elegance parades it o'er ; Nor pomp without, nor pageantry within, Nor splendid show, nor ornament is seen, The swain shall look with pity on the great. Nor barter quiet for a king's estate. 1768." Brtnbella is the half- Welsh, half-Italian name of a villa, once the beautiful residence of Mrs. Piozzi, the friend of Dr. Samuel Johnson. It occupies a fine situation, commanding a \'ie\v of Denbigh Castle. The gardens are charming, and all about it is lively and pleasing. Nantglyn is the birthplace of David Samwell, who sailed round the world with Captain Cook, as surgeon in the ship Discovery. He was eye-witness of the death of Captain Cook, a detailed account of which he published in the Biocjraphia Britannica. Mr. Samwell died in 1799. Llewenny Hall, about two miles E. from Denbigh, has derived celebrity from several of its proprietors. In 720 it was possessed l)y Marclnveithian, chief of one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales. Before the time of Henry III, an English family of the name of Salusbury settled here. To this family attaches a curious tale, relating to a celebrated lady, which shall be given as recorded by a female pen.* " The lady was called Catlierine Tudor of Beren. She married first Sir John Salusbury of Llewenny, who died while she was still in her bloom. At his funeral, she was conducted to and from church, by her friends and neiglibours. Sir Richard Clough of Bache- graig, and Morris Wynne of Gwydir. With the usual prompti- tude of his character. Sir Richaid, as he led her along ' \nth the tear in her ee,' whispered his wish to make her his own ; and, far from being oifended at his boldness, she smiled an immediate consent. The solemnity over, Morris Wynne stepped forward, and presented his hand to the fair widow ; when, full of hope and expectation, conceiving it impossible that he was not first in the field, he ventured to make a tender declaration, and an offer of his heait and estates. With infinite politeness and gratitude, the gentle Catherine replied that he was too late, for she had given her promise to Sir Richard before she ♦ See " The Falls, Lakes, and Mountains of North Wales," by Mws L. 8 Costello. LLEWENNY HALL LLANRHATADR. 149 entered the church ; but, to console him, she gave him her word, that should the same sad event happen to her second husband, he should be her third. On the death of Sir Eichard, he claimed her plighted vow, and became her spouse ; but he too died, and, for a fourth time, Catherine Tudor de Beren became a bride, marrying Edward Th el wall of Plas-y-Ward. She died in 1591." Her memory was long held in much veneration, and she had the honourable distinction of being called "Mam Cijmru," the Mother of Wales. Portraits of her are preserved in several Welsh mansions, which exhibit no very remarkable beauty ; but it is not known that any monu- ment marks the place of her burial. The Llewenny estate was at one time possessed by the Hon. Thomas Fitzmaurice, uncle to the Marquis of Lansdowne, distinguished by eccentric philanthropy. In order to advance the interests of his tenantry in Ireland, by promoting the national manufacture of linens, he established at Llewenny an extensive bleaching-work, and personally superintended both the preparation and sale of the linens. With the pomp of a nobleman he united the active and humble habits of a trades- man, travelling periodically to Cliester in a coach and six, and when there standing behind a counter. Llanrhayadr, a village on the road to Ruthin, also claims attention, on account of the church, at the E. end of which is a stained-glass window brought from Basingwerk Abbey, de- signed to represent the genealogical tree, of which Jesse is the root. The patriarch is represented as extended on his back, with the tree springing from his loins, bearing on numerous branches King David and his posterity in successive genera- tions, until the advent of the Saviour of the world. The colours are brilliant, and the whole is in wonderful preserva- tion. The name of the ingenious artist is unknown. In the churchyard are many ancient and very interesting monuments, especially the one setting forth a long pedigree to Oadell, Prince of Powis. ISO RUTHIN. RUTHIN. [Hotels : Lion ; Wynnstay Arms ; Cross-Keys. ] O-ood HeEresh m ent-rooma at Station. The Welsh name of this town is said to have been Rhudd- ddyn. It is situated on the summit and slope of a consider- able hill, rising from the bank of the river Clwyd, here a small stream, and not far from the southern termination of the vale to which that river gives name. Mr. Gilpin quaintly but not inaccurately describes it as " on a rising ground in a dish of mountains." According to the Welsh historians this place is of high antiquity, but we have no authentic informa- tion respecting it prior to the reign of Edward I., who erected here a magnificent castle, called Rhyddin, from the colour of the stone of which it was constructed. This castle was granted in 1281 to Reginald de Grey. In 1400 Owen Glyndwr assailed it without success. By some of the family of De Grey it was sold to Henry VIL By Queen Elizabeth it was granted to the Earl of Warwick. In 1646 it was held for Charles I. against the Parliament, but, after a siege of two months, it was taken and dismantled. The late proprietor, F. R. West, Esq., erected on the site of the ruins the present imposing structure, the principal feature of which is the octagon tower. The original castle consisted of two distinct portions, connected with a drawbridge, now replaced by masonry. A new Town-hall and market have been erected in a new street leading to the railway station. Other buildings are the County Hall, a modern and commodious stone edifice ; the Gaol, suitably constructed for the classification of prisoners ; and the Free Grammar School for 50 boys, liberally endowed, and ranking with the best in North Wales. The Church, originally conventual, is an ancient edifice of the fourteenth century. The interior has been lately restored^ and the roof of carved oak is much admired. In 1310 it was made a collegiate chapter by John de Grey, who endowed it with lands of considerable extent and value. A part of the cloisters has been converted into a residence for the warden of Christ's Hospital, founded here by Dr. Gabriel Goodman for the support of 12 decayed house-keepers. The warden and pensioners are impropriators of the great tithes of Ruthin KOTHIN. 151 and Llanrbydd ; and the warden, who is appointed by the dean and chapter of Westminster, is the vicar of both parishes. No particular trade or manufacture is carried on here. The inhabitants are principally employed in agriculture. Markets are held on Monday and Saturday, the former being chiefly for corn, and there are six annual fairs. The borough unites with Holt, Wrexham, and Denbigh, in electing one M.P. Ruthin is likewise one of the polling-places in elections for the county. The assizes are held here, and the quarter-sessions alternately with Denbigh. Popidation of the parish, 1299 ; of the borough, 3372. The scenery of the neighbourhood is very pleasing, especially towards the south, where the vale, gradually contracting, is shut in by the mountains. There are numerous gentlemen's seats in the vicinity. Llanrhydd is a small village, a short distance S.E. from Ruthin, noticed on account of its church, properly the mother church of the neighbouring town, which contains a curious old mural monument of John Thelwall, Esq. of Bathafam, and his wife, kneeling at an altar, ■ndth ten sons and four daughters kneeling behind them. Here also is a bust of St. Ambrose, admirably sculptured- 1 ^2 MERIONETHSHIEE. ^lERIONETHSHIEE. This county is most readily entered from Llangollen and Corwen on the east, and Barmouth on the west coast. It is the only Welsh county which retains its primitive British name, Meirionydd, while to the Romans it was known under the name of Mervinia, a subdivision of Britannia Secunda. It has on the N. the counties of Carnarvon and Denbigh ; on. the E. and S. those of Montgomery and Cardigan ; and, on the W. a great extent of coast bordering on St. George's Channel. In form it is nearly triangular. Its extent from E. to W. is about 40 miles ; from N. to S., by the coast, about 35 miles ; and from N.E. to S.W. about 48 miles. Next to Carnarvon it is the most mountainous county in Wales. The loftiest summits are those of Aran Mowddwy, 2972 feet ; Cader Idris, 2929 feet ; Arenig, 2800 feet ; and Cader Ferwyn, 2573 feet. It has some remarkably fine valleys, with well-cultivated soil and highly pictiiresque scenery, especially those of Festiniog and Dolgelly. Along the sea-coast there are considerable tracts of low, swampy land, which, if well drained, might be rendered highly fertile. The soil is various, for the most part poor, suited only for pasturage. The principal dependence of the farmers is upon cattle and sheep, of which great numbers are fed on the hills. The small native Welsh ponies, called Merlins, so sure-footed and hardy, are now rarely met with except in parts of this county and of Montgomeryshire. The minerals are not raised so exten- sively as might be expected. Gold, lead, copper, and manganese, are produced in small quantities, lime to some extent at Corwen, and slates in various parts, especially near Festiniog and Corris. The whole district is thinly peopled, and its wild rugged character is impressed on the habits and manners of the uihabitants ; of whom, however, it may be said, that if they do not enjoy the luxuries nor display the refinement of our gay and crowded cities, they have the advantage of pure salu- brious air, and of occupations favourable to longevity, as wrote the poet Churchyard in 1587 : — " The moimtajTie men live longer many a yeare Than those in vale, in playne, or marrish soyle ; MERIONETHSHIRE. 153 A lustie hart, a cleane complexion cleere They have, on hill tliat for hard living toyle. With ewe and lambe, with goats and Ifids they play. In greatest toyles, to rub out wearie day ; And when to house and home good fellowes drawe. The lads can laugh at turning of a strawe." During more recent years much progress has been made in providing the means of education ; but, in this respect, there is still ample room and occasion for further improve- ment. The rivers in the county are, the Dee, Dyfi (pronounced Dovey), Maw (or Mawddach), Wnion, Eden, Cayne, Dysynni, and several smaller streams. These will be noticed in their proper places. The lake of Bala, the largest in Wales, is in this county. Tliere is also a fine lake called Tal-y-llyn, at the foot of Cader Idris, and more than fifty smaller lakes are dis- persed amongst the hiUs. In the mountainous parts are many cascades, amidst scenes of mingled beauty and grandeur. Notwithstanding its great extent of sea-coast, its only haven is that of Barmouth. Though sometimes the scene of internal struggles, yet, owing to its remoteness and difficulty of access, it was never made the field of battle in the wars of the ancient Britons with the Saxons, Danes, and Normans, until near the time at which Wales lost its independence. The relics of antiquity are not very numerous ; the most important will be noticed in describing the localities in which they are found. The assizes are held alternately at Dolgelly and Bala. Harlech, the former capital, is now reduced to an inconsider- able village. One member of Parliament is elected for the county, and there are no borough representatives. Popula- tion, 47,369. 154 CHESTER TO DOLGELLT. CHESTER TO DOLGELLY, BY GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY TO RUABON ; THENCE, BY BRANCH LINE, vid LLANGOLLEN, CORWEN, AND BALA. ON RIGHT it a| ON LEFT FROM CHESTER. fc-'o p Railway Station, jl FROM OHE.STER. 65 CHESTER. Tunnel, 300 yds. /^ cr.EllesmereCanal High embankment and viaduct of 47 arches. cr. river Dee. Deep cuttings through Brewer's Hall Hill. Roodee, Race-course. Holyhead RaUway. 63 Saltney Station. 2 Extensive premises for the repair of rail- way carriages, &c., and the Iron-works of Messrs. Wood. Lache Hayes, a flat, cultivated and fer- tile, formerly covered by the tide. Eccleston, 2 ni., a beautiful village,hav- ing an elegant Gothic church, within which At a distance Moel 4 is the mausoleum of Fammau, and other 61 the Grosvenor family. Welsh hills. Tunnel, 57 yds., under one of the car- Eaton Park and Hall, Dodleston village. riage-roads leading to Eaton. 5| Marquis of Westmin- ster. Pulford village. 4 m. Caergwrle Castle. Enter Denbighshire. 57i Rossett Station. n Rossett village, with Mount Alyn, Patrick a modern church. Hunter, Esq. Deep cutting through the hill caUed the Rofts, fomierlya British camp. Vale of Gresford. Trevalyn Hall, Capt. Griffith. Trevalyn House, Major-General Town- shend. Gresford Lodge, Mrs. Piotureaquo and beautiful. Egerton. Glan Alyn, D. Ras- 56 Gresford Station. 9 botham, Eisq. Acton Hall, Sir R. 1 Gwyersyllt Hall. Cunlifie, Bart. CHESTER TO DOLGELLT 155 ON RIGHT a) ON LEFT FROM CHESTER. £0 Q 53 WREXHAM Station. 12 FROM CHESTER. Branch Railway to Brymbo, Minera, cfec, length 6imiles,having, in addition, several smaller branches, a- mounting to about 6 m. Erddig HaU, Simon Yorke, Esq. Plas Power, Thomas Fitzhugh, Esq. Valuable mining dis- trict, abounding in coal and iron. 50J The course of the rail- way is for some miles between Offa's Dyke and Watt's Dyke. Rhds Station. 141 Caerdden, or Gardden HaU. Pen-y-Gardden, Lady Marshall Rh6s is a convenient abbreviation of the name of this place, which is Rhosllanerch- rugog. 48i RUABON Station. 161 Wynnstay, Sir W. W. W)im, Bart., MP. 46J Acrefair Station. 18J Plas Newydd, Edwd. Tench, Esq. Railway to Shrews- bury. 45 Trevor Station. 20 Pont Cysylltau Aque- duct. Trevor Hall, on N. side of Dee. 41i LLANGOLLEN Station. jJX3 cr. river Dee. 23i Plas Newydd, late Lady E. Butler, and Hon. Miss Ponsonby. Plas Pengwem. Llantisilio Hall, A. Reid, Esq. 38i Llantisilio. Enter Merionethshire. 26J 28i Tumulus. ,S5 Berwyn Station. 30 Glyndwr's Mount. 34 GljTxdyfrdwy Station. 31 Ferry across the Dee. Llansantfraid. 33 Carrog Station. 32 Rhagatt, J. Lloyd, Esq. 156 CHESTER TO DOLGELLT. ON RIGHT FKOM CHESTER. Si ^3 CORWEN Station. ON LEFT FROM CHESTER. Railway to Ruthin, Denbigh, RhyL 32 33 Llangar. 80 Cynwyd Station. 35 2S .^5^1 or. riv. Trystioa Capel-y-Coed. i3543 cr. riv. Ceudiog. 37 On the river Trystion, half-a-niile from the road, is a consider- able waterfall, called Rhayadr Cynwyd. Tyddyn-y-Llan. 27 Llandrillo Station. 38 Cefn C6ch. Crogen. Camedd Wen. Y Fronheulog. 23 Llandderfel Station. 42 Bryn-bwlan. Rhiwlas, Price, Esq. 19i Tilanfor. 45| Bodwem. To Festiniog, 19 m, (Coach.) 17 BALA Station. Coach to Fe-tiniog, N. E. end of Lake. 48 To Rhayadr-yn-Moch- nant, 17 J m. To Dinas Mowddwy, ISm, iBala Lake, or Llyn Tegid, or Pimble- mere. The railway is carried along the east side of the lake. Caer Qai, now a farm- house, was o7ice a splendid residence, contiguous to t)ie re- mains of a Roman station. 15 14 S.W. end of Lake. Llanuwchllyn Station. Skirt the river Wnion. 50 51 Glan-y-Llyn, Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart. To Dinas Mowddwy. Drws-y-nant Inn, near to which are sources of the Dee, which flows N.E., and of the Wnion. 7 Drws-y-nant Station. 58 Nannau Park, John Vaughau, Esq. 3 Pont Newydd Station. DOLGELLY. 62 Felindre. SALTNEY ROSSETT GRESFORD. 157 CHESTER AND RUABON TO DOLGELLY (Great Western Railway.) This important line of railway skirts the borders of North Wales, passes tlirough the rich mineral-fields of Wrexham, Ruabon, etc., and communicates with Shropshire, Hereford- shire, South Wales, and the south-western counties of England. To the tourist it presents many attractions, disclosing scenes of distinguished beauty, and facilitating access by way of Llangollen and Bala to the central portion of North Wales. The project, as originally announced, encountered much oppo- sition, and underwent various alterations, but at length con- flicting interests were reconciled, and the act of incorporation was obtained. A portion of the line, between Chester and Ruabon, was opened in 1846, and the entire line, between Chester and Shrewsbury, in 1848. In includes some engin- eering works of extraordinary magnitude, which have been executed in the most satisfactory manner, particularly the ex- tensive and elevated viaducts over the valleys of the Dee and the Ceiriog. Saltney is the first station, 2 miles from Chester. The lailway company having laid out an extensive wharf, and ob- tained power to construct docks, it rose rapidly into import- ance as a port for the coasting trade. It is tlie nearest and most convenient outlet for the whole of tlie central district of North Wales, and for the mining fields of Shropshire. Here also are extensive ironworks for the manufacture of anchors, chain-cables, etc. The next station is RossETT, a small village pleasantly situated at what may be termed the entrance to Gresford vale. Many seats belonging to Liverpool gentlemen and others are in this neighbourhood. Gresford is a remarkably pleasant village, and is selected for residence by a number of respectable and opvdent families. It is the first place requiring notice after entering Denbighshire, situated at the head of an agreeable picturesque valley, and commanding an extensive view of the Vale Royal of Cheshire. Its old name is Cwes-ffordd, or the road of the cross. The church is a fine ancient edifice, having a quadrangular tower 90 feet high, with a set of 1 2 bells, which used to be reckoned 158 CHESTER AND RUABON TO DOLGELLY. among the seven wonders of Wales. " A considerable portion of the tower was blown down about fifteen years ago, but was promptly restored by the parishioners. On the top are. images of eight Knights Templar, and one of Henry VII. in a niche on one side. Many monuments in this church are interesting, some from their beauty, some from their antiquity and historic association. One, partly concealed by a pew on the north side, is a flat stone, elaborately sculjjtured, and having round a shield the words. Here lies Gronw ap lorwerth ap Dafydd, whose soul God absolve, 1320. The arms, three mullets on a bend, are of the family of the Ithels, the founders of the church. Against the south wall, and on the floor, la the tomb of Llewelyn in mail armour ; on his shield a lion rampant, and around were formerly the words, Uic Jacet Madoc ap Llewelin ap Gruff, a.d. 1331. This warrior was an illegitimate son of Llewelyn, who aspired to the princedom of North Wales. In Trevors' Chapel there are several mural monuments to the memory of the Trevors of Trevalyn Hall, a neighbouring seat. Among the recent monuments, the most beautiful is that to the memory of the late Mr. Williams of Gwersyllt Hall, erected by his widow. There is also a well-executed bust in marble to the memory of the late William Egerton, Esq., of Gresford Lodge. The painted windows of this church are said to have come originally from Basingwerk Abbey ; and the sculptured font, at the entrance, is a relic of Basingwerk. The carving of the screen-work and the stalls, at the east end of the church, is universally admired — the one for its grotesqueness, the other for its chaste and elaborate execution. The church underwent a restoration in the year 1867."* In the churchyard are some large venerable yew-trees, one of which, in j^articular, attracts much notice, 30 feet in girth, and pronounced to be more than 2000 years old. In the immediate vicinity of the village is an eminence called the Rofts, formerly a British camp, treble trenched, having at one corner a lofty mount, or keep. The most remarkable natural phenomenon in the parish of Gresford is, perhaps, its petrifying waters. They permeate the slopes upon the western side of the Alyn for tlie length of half-a-mile, in the neighbourhood of Lower Gwersyllt Hall. The quality of the water is to petrify all tlie vegetable * Wrexham, and its Neighbourhood, by John Jones, Esq. WREXHAM. 159 productioQS it flows over. The branch of a tree lying for a time under the drippings of the spring becomes incrusted with a calcareous deposit. Taken in the fingers before it attains consistency, it is easily pulverised ; but, left undisturbed, it hardens and forms rock in shape as fantastic as coral. The genteel house at the bottom of the valley, seen from the railway-station, was once the residence of poor Eliot Warburton, the author of the Crescent and the Cross. Samuel Warren, the author of Ten Thousand a Year, was born in the parish of Gresford, at a farm-house called " The Kackery." Population of the parish, 4161. WREXHAM* [Hotels : Wynnstay Arms ; The Lion ; Turf.] is a lively market-town, with spacious streets and substantial well-built houses • described by the poet Churchyard as " Trim Wricksam towne, a pearle of Denbighshiere." It is of Saxon origin, and although included in a Welsh county, it retains the language and much of the appearance of an EngKsh town. No particular branch of trade or manufacture is carried on in it, but it derives much importance from its large, well-supplied markets, and from its fairs, one of which, in the mouth of March, is continued for fourteen days, and is attended by traders of aU descriptions, and from great distances. Within the parish, coal, iron, and lead mines, are extensively wrought. The chief object of interest is CIjc Cljurrlj, a large hand- some structure, deservedly regarded as one of the principal ecclesiastical edifices in the princi2)ality, and one of its seven wonders. It was erected about 1472, upon the site of one destroyed by fire ; and in correctness of design and propor- tion is surpassed by few buildings of the same date. The present structure was erected in a great measure by force of an indulgence granted for forty days per annum for five years to all contributors. The windows were glazed with glass from Normandy .t Tradition says that the church was not all completed at once, but that the nave was built first, next the north, and lastly the south aisle, and that the timber of * For further information see the Guide to Wrexham and its Neighhourhood, by Jolin Jones, Esq., published by Mr Potter of Wreximm, with map of the district. t They were re-glazed in 1810 and 1811. 160 CHESTER AND RoABON TO DOLGELLY. a gallery over the north aisle was used to make the roof of the south aisle. The chancel is an addition and enlargement of the original structure, as is evident from the remains of the tracery of the eastern window, which was originally in a line with the extremities of the two aisles. The tower, 135 feet in height, consists of several successive stages, panelled through- out, and decorated with numerous statues of saints placed in niches of the buttresses. It is surmounted by an open-work balustrade, from which spring four lantern-shaped turrets of pierced open-work. The battlements of the church, and two of the pinnacles of the tower, were rebuilt recently. Among the sculjDtured figures of the tower is that of St. Giles, to whom the church is dedicated (some say to St. Silin Sep. I.), accompanied by the hind by which he was miraculously nur- tured in the wilderness. In a niche over the northern door is a mouldered figure of the Virgin and Child. Two of the niches of the tower are deserted of their saints, who, one day, " walking from their pedestals to take the air," fell down and were broken. A winding stair terminates at the top of the north-west turret. The interior, which was completely re- stored in the year 1867, is spacious and much decorated. It has a fine altar-piece and some interesting monuments ; among which are two, to members of the Myddelton family, admir- ably sculptured by Roubilliac, and a more recent Gothic monument to the memory of Sir Foster and Lady Cimliffe. No account of Wrexham Church will be complete without a notice of its bells, confessedly the most melodious peal in the principality. So famous are they for strength and melod}'', that tourists have frequently been known to pay the ringers for the gratification of hearing them ring. The present peal, ten in number, came from Gloucester, and were cast by Rud- hall in 1720. They were brought up the Severn to Slirews- "bury, and thence transported by land. The total expense of founding, carriage, hanging, etc., was £450 : 17 : 8, of which £l60 was raised by rate, and the rest by subscription. The little bell (the " parson's bell ") is one of the old peal, and was cast in 1G78. The weight of the largest is 28 cwt. The clock and chimes are the gift of Watkin Williams, Esq. (afterwards Wynn). On tombstones in the contiguous church- yard are a niunber of strange quaint inscriptions, of which two specimens may sufhce : — WREXHAM. 161 " Here lies five babes and children dear, Three at Oswestry, and two here." " Here lies Jane Shore, I say no more. Who was alive, In sixty-five. " Dr. Daniel Williams, who founded the Dissenters' Library in Eedcross Street, London, was born at Wrexham in 1644. Wrexham has an endowed Free School, a Town-hall, and a handsome Market-hall. It unites with Denbigh, Holt, and Ruthin, in returning a representative to the House of Com- mons ; and it is also one of the polling-places for the county. Population of the parish, 19,780 ; of the borough, 7562. Around Wrexham are situated a number of gentlemen's mansions, among which the following may be mentioned : — Acfo7i Hall, Sir R. A. Cunliffe, Bart., in a beautiful situation, surrounded by an extensive and well-planted park. This was the birthplace of the infamous Judge Jeffries. Brymbo Hall, Darby, Esq., a fine specimen of the domestic architecture of former times, from a design by Inigo Jones. Here the late John Wilkinson, Esq., succeeded in bringing mto cultivation, and a high state of productiveness, some hundreds of acres of wild heath and peat-moss.* Erddig Hall, Simon Yorke, Esq. The grounds are remarkable for the * Here resided Miss Janet W. Wilkinson, the gifted writer of Sketches and Legends amid the Mountains of North Wales, in Verse, which evince much refined taste and poetic talent. In the dedication, dated " Brymbo Hall, 22d August 1S40," it appears that the author was " a girl of fifteen." The introduc- tory stanzas may be given as a specimen : — " 1. Most glorious Wales ! thou eagle of the rock. That nestlest 'mid high mountains and wild streams. Where mighty tempest's dread resounding shock Alternate rules with sunlight's richest beams — Hail ! throned within thy realms of awe and might, O'erlooking ocean — canopied by clouds ; Admit us to thy haunts of dusky night, Where floating mist thy frowning grandeur shrouds "2. Dominion of the free ! when from the chain Of foreign victors Britain's chiefs withdrew, Guarding with arm and life thy stern domain. Which round the heroes like a fortress grew, Secure 'mid towering cliff, or savage cave. Or tangled mazes of recesses deep, High o'er the foes they bade Defiance wave. And still the baffled chase o'er deserts sweep. M N 162 CHESTER AND RUABON TO DOLGELLY. extent of majestic woods ; and the mansion contains much to interest the scholar and the antiquary, including all the herahlic bearings of tlie royal tribes of Wales, and a valuable collection of Welsh manuscripts. Flos Poiver, Tliomas Lloyd Fitzliugli, Esq., a handsome modem mansion, embosomed in rich plantations, but in a situation too flat to allow of much diversity or picturesque beauty. Bangor-ys-coed is situated on the banks of tlie Dee, in a detached portion of Flintshire which adjoins the English counties of Chester and Salop, called the hundred of Maelor, and, by the Welsh, Maelor Saesneg. To distinguish it from the city of Bangor in Carnarvonshire, it is sometimes called Bangor in Maelor. It is famed on account of having been the site of the most ancient monastery in the kingdom, founded before the year 180. According to Speed, the mo- nastery or college of Bangor contained, in the year 596, not fewer than 2400 monks. Of these ecclesiastics, 1200 were slain by Ethelfrid, king of Northumbria, who afterwards de- spoiled and devastated the monastery. This place appears to have been the Banchorium of Richard of Cirencester, and the Bovlum of Antoninus. Roman pavements are found in the neighbourhood. The scenery is beautiful amidst the wind- ings of the river Dee, whose elevated banks are overshadowed by the richest woods. The present population of the village scarcely exceeds 550. The hundred of Maelor contains also the neat village of Overton, with a venerable church, overlooking the Dee and surrounded by scenery delightfully picturesque. The folloM'- ing seats of nobility and gentry are in the district : — Bryn-y-pys, E. Peel, Esq. ; Gredingtoii Hall, Lord Kenyon ; Gwernliaeled Park, in which are remains of a tunmlus and of a large circular camp ; Hanmer Hall and Bettisfield Park, both belonging to Sir John Hanmer, Bart., M.P. ; and Emral, an ancient seat of the family of Puleston. "3. Now — vale and hill are bright with joy and peace, No echoes startle to the combat's din ; The ven>,'eance and the strife of ages cease, And Plenty reigns around, beneath, within. There lurks no danger in the forests old ; There gleam no weapons in the distant glen ; Deserted stands each patriot's rugged hold, And flocks lie scathless by the wolfs 'lorn den.'' EUABON — WYNNSTAY. 16;^ RUABON. [Hotel : Wynustay Arms.] This is the important junction station between Chester and Shrewsbury, from which the branch line to Llangollen, Corwen, Bala, and Dulgelly, diverges westwards. " The village of Ruabon, or Rhiwabon, is pleasantly situated on an eminence, surrounded by beautiful scenery, parts of which, however, are rendered dingy and repulsive by numer- ous iron-works and collieries. These furnish employment to a large population. The church is a very ancient building, presumed to have been founded by Mabon, a brother of Llewelyn. It contains several marble monuments of the Wynn family, deserving of notice. One, by Rhysbrac, in memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn (the first baronet of the family bearing the name of Wynn), who was killed by falling from a horse in 1749. He is represented in graceful attitude, his hands outspread as if in the act of addressing an assembly. On one side is a likeness of his son, and on the other that of his daughter, both kneeling. Two others are by Nollekens in honour of the second Sir Watkin, and of Lady Heru'ietta, his wife. That of Lady Wynn, who was daugliter of the Duke of Beaufort, and died within a few months alter marriage, is especially admired. A small mural tablet indi- cates the burial-place of Dr. David Powell, who translated into English the History of Wales, written by Caradoc of Llancarfan. He died in 1590. In the immediate vicinity is Wynnstay, the demesne of the Wynus. Wynnstay, the seat of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., the fourth in succession bearing the same names, is situated close to the village, and both house and grounds are readily opened to respectable strangers. This magnificent domain was anciently the residence of Madoc ap GrijffijJd Maelor, the founder of Valle Crucis Abbey, and was called Wattstaij, from Watt's Dyke, an old rampart which runs through the estate ; but when it came into the possession of the Wynns by the marriage of the heiress of Eyton Evans with Sir John Wynn, it received its present appellation. The ajiproach, about one mile in length, is bordered by stately trees. The original mansion, erected in the l(5th ccd- 1G4 CHESTER AND RUABON TO DOLGELLT. tury, was degtroyed by fire in 1858, whereupon the present was built upon the same site. The interior contains several spacious apartments embellished with paintings, principally family portraits by Vand}ck, Sir Godfrey Kneller, and Sir Joshua Reynolds. There are also admirable busts of Lord Grenville, William Pitt, and other distinguished statesmen ; and the library is extensive and highly valuable. The Park, about 8 miles in circumference, and enclosed by a lofty stone wall, is watered by the rapid Dee, and adorned by some of the noblest trees in the principality. It contains an admirable bath, whose lucid purity tempts a plunge ; an artificial water- fall, formed by diverting and combining several brooks, and directing their course over a ledge 30 feet high ; and two beautiful sheets of water, on one of which is an island, bearing o*dvs of extraordinary growth. Within the park are also three buildings, all of great interest. The first is a Monuimnt erect- ed by maternal atfection in memory of the second Sir Watkin Williams Wynu. It was constructed from designs by Wyatt, and is a fluted Doric column of freestone, 101 feet in height, supporting an entablature and a circular balustrade, surmounted by a magnificent bronze urn, around which is a gallery. On the S.W, side is an entrance to the spiral stairs leading to the summit. The pedestal, 16 feet square, is decorated with eagles and wi-eaths of oak-leaves. A beautiful drive along the park for about 5 miles leads to Nant-y-Belen, or the Mar- tin's Dingle, a deep ravine, through which the Dee, overhung by precipitous rocks, pursues its rugged course. Above this dingle is a Tower, erected to commemorate the heroes of the Cambrian regiment of Ancient Britons, who fell in their country's cause, under the command of the thii'd Sir Watkin, during the Irish Rebellion of 1798. The remaining structure referred to is the Waterloo Totver, built by the late Sir Watkin to commemorate that decisive victory. It affords a charming view of the windings of the river Dee through the Vale of Llangollen, the ruins of Castell Dinas Bran, and the surround- ing mountains. Watt's Dyke passes through the grounds ; Offa's Dyke, also, is in the immediate vicinity, being here, for a consider- able extent, 10 feet high, and broad enough for two carriages. CHIRK CASTLE BRYNKINALT, 16fi An agreeable excursion may be made from Ruabon to Chirk Castle and Park, about 4 miles distant. Chirk Castle is supposed to bave been founded in 1013, and was an ex- tremely strong fortification. It was besieged by the Parlia- mentary forces, and so much battered by the artillery of Cromwell, that the repairs occasioned an expense of £80,000. In 1595 it became the property of Sir Thomas Myddelton, afterwards Lord Mayor of London. There were successively four of this name, the two former Knights, and the two latter Baronets. The celebrated Hugh Myddelton, also knighted, projector of the New Eiver from Hertfordshire to London, was a brother of the first Sir Thomas. From his day, this fine estate has continued in the jDossession of the same family, the i^resent representative of which is Robert Myddelton Bid- dulj-ih, Esq., M.P., Lord-Lieutenant of Denbighshire, and colonel of the county militia. This ancient castle stands on the brow of a hill, near to the village of Chirk, sheltered by the Ber- wyn mountains. It is a quadrangular embattled structure, defended by four low massive towers at the angles, and a gate- way tower in the centre of the N. front, through which is the principal entrance into a square area of considerable extent. On the E. side of this area is a low embattled corridor leading into the principal rooms, which liave been greatly altered and appropriately embellished under the direction of Mr. Pugin. The picture-gallery, at the S. end of which is the chapel, is 100 feet in length, and 22 feet in width ; and contains some good portraits and other i:)aiutings. One of the apartments contains the state bed in which Charles I. slept, and a beauti- ful cabinet which he presented to the family. The summit of this venerable pile commands a view of surpassing beauty, extending, it is said, into seventeen counties. In the park, tlie walks and drives are extensive and diversified. The view from the terrace, on a fine day, may well be deemed to repay a long journey. The river Ceiriog runs on the W. side of the castle, through a deep picturesque valley, remarkable as the scene of conflict in 1165, between the forces under Henry II. and those of the Welsh under their brave prince Owen Gwynedd ; when the latter obtained a victory, and soon afterwards com- pelled the Saxon monarch to seek safety by returning to hia own territories. Brynkinalt, one mile below Chirk, is the elegant seat of ICC) CHESTER AND RUABON TO DOLGELLY. Lord Artluir Hill Trevor, who is descended from Tudor Trevor, Earl of Hereford, founder of one of tlie fifteen tribes of North Wales. The former proprietor, Lord Dungannon, was distinguished for archpcological taste and research ; the churches of the neighbourhood were greatly improved at his expense ; and he was the author of the " Life and Times of William, Prince of Orange." The mother of the Duke of Wellington, who was a daughter of Arthur Hill Trevor (Viscount Dungannon), spent much time here in the boyhood of the illustrious general. Aquedccts and Viaducts. — The vale of the Ceiriog at Chirk, and the vale of the Dee between Chirk and Llangollen, are distinguished by four noble specimens of engineering and architectural skill — each of these deep valleys being crossed by the Ellesmere Canal, and by the Chester and Shrewsbury Railway, upon long ranges of arches at a great elevation. The two former are the productions of the late eminent engineer, Mr. Telford ; and the two latter, of Mr. H. Robert- son, the able engineer of the Railway Company. The follow- ing comparative statement of dimensions may assist in con- veying some idea of these great works : — Chirk Chirk Dee Dee Aqueduct. Viailuct. Aqueduct. Viaduct. Entire length 690 ft. 846 ft. 1007 ft. 1508 ft. Height of Piers .... 65 ft. 100 ft. 116 ft. 147 ft. Numbur of Arclies 10 12 19 19 The two aqueducts have long been the objects of general admiration, but they are now surpassed, in massive grandeur and importance, by the works of the railway. All these noble structures are placed amidst scenery of extraordinary richness and beauty, and from their elevation the varied pro- spects are exceedingly imposing. LLANGOLLEN. [Hotels : Hand ; Royal. This lively little town is much resorted to by tourists and anglers as an eligible centre. It is situated in a narrow valley watered by the Dee, and closely surrounded by hills of moderate elevation. The streets are narrow and irregular ; and the houses are, fur the most part, old and mean, but these are LLANGOLLEN. 167 gradually giving place to modern improvement. This is visible in a building of some architectural jjretension, comprising, under one roof, town-hall, assembly-rooms, and market-house. A remarkable object in the scenery about Llangollen is the range of limestone rocks, called Eglu-yseg, which form on the N.E. side a singular background, contrasting strangely with the cultivated meadows and wooded slopes. These rocks are bold and naked, and, from their peculiarity of colour, when their huge front is lighted up by the sun, the effect is extremely curious and imposing. The Bridge, long regarded as one of the seven wonders of Wales, has recently been M'idened and altered. It was origin- ally erected about the middle of the fourteenth century by Dr. John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph ; and consisted of four irregular narrow-pointed arches. The Dee is here a broad though shallow river, and rolls its turbulent waters over a rocky bed. The depth of water is sometimes greatly increased within a few hours, even in the finest weather, and when there is neither rain nor thaw, by a strong S.W. wind blowing over Bala lake, producing the effect of a tide rushing with great force. The Church (dedicated to the British saint Collen), is ancient, but without peculiarity of architecture. Castell Dinas Bran, or Crow Castle, as it is sometimes named, is the ruin of a fortress on a high conical hill about a mile from the town ; a conspicuous object throughout the valley, and from all the adjacent heights. Towards the top of the hill the slope is extremely steep. The name is sup- posed to have been taken from the mountain-stream Bran, which runs just below. The structure appears to have been about 2.90 feet long and 140 feet broad, occupying the whole crown of the hilL On one side, where the ascent is the least steep, it was defended by trenches cut through the rock. The style of architecture indicates a British origin, but the period of its erection and the name of its founder remain in oblivion. A single incident in its history possesses present interest. About the year 1390 the castle was the residence of Myfanioy Fechan, a beautiful and accomplished woman, descended from the house of Tudor Trevor. She was adored by Hoel ap Einion Llygliw, a distinguished bard, who addressed to her an im- passioned ode, still extant, of which a spirited translation has been published in the collection of the Rev. Evan Evans. At 168 CHESTER AND RUABON TO DOLGELLT. what time the castle was demolished there is no certain in- formation. Churchyard, the poet of the 16th century, calls it " an old ruynous thinge." Valle Crucis Abbey, or Llan Ef/ticst, is, an ecclesiastical ruin of much celebrity, situated in a small meadow, at the foot of a hill called Broufawr, 2 miles N.W. of Llangollen. It was a VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY — GROUND PLAN. house of Cistercians, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, founded about the year 1200 by Madoc ap Gryffydd Maelor, Lord of Dinas Bran and Bromfield, grandson of Owen Gwynedd, Prince of Wales. It was dissolved in 1535. The building was held by the Crown till granted by James I. to Edward Wotton, al'terwards Lord Wotton. • The church consisted originally of a nave of five bays, with remains of part of a rood-screen with a stair on the S. side, a transejjt \\dth two chapels in an aisle in each wing, divided by pai'closes, and a shallow presbytery. The bases of six altars remain ; the high altar was detached from the east wall. A stone coffin is seen in the north wing, near the base of a large staircase and door. The ritual choir occupied the crossing under the central tower, the large vaulted shafts being chamfered off. In the S. wall of the presbytery there are remains of a fine arcaded recess LLANGOLLEN. 169 whicli had detaclied shafts and trefoil-headed arches. The sedilia were arranged in a large arch on the south side, opening into the transept-aisle. In the wall above there is a passage, which terminates at a loop which commanded a view of the sacrament lamp. The peculiar arrangement of the but- tresses, which form hoods to the eastern windows, which con- sisted of a triplet, a couplet, and lancet in these stages, is quite unique. In the south wall of the transept are a monumental recess, the door to the sacristy and tliat of the dormitory, access being obtained by a staircase now destroyed. Five slabs, one of a knightly Trevor, and several aumbries remain. The E. side of the cloister is perfect, though used as a farmhouse ; ad- joining the transept in the nave is the single procession door ; against the south wall of the transept is a barrel-vaulted sacrist}''. The chapter house has quadripartite vaulting sup- ported upon four pillars, thus forming three alleys. The N. arch has been filled up with massive flamboyant tracery, and an inner wall, with a small doorway, has been built on the inner side ; the S. side is occupied by a door leading to the dormitory stairs. Next to this building is the slype, or pas- sage to the infirmary and cemetery, the line being closed by a common room or calefactory. Over this eastern range, lighted by six lancets and two large windows, is the dormitory with a second dator on the east, and a large door and small window opening into a room over the slype ; access to the lateral dormitory and a room over part of the sacristy (which retains a round chimney and a mantelpiece formed out of a Norman tombstone richly carved) was given by a door still remaining. The S. side of the cloister garth was formed by the refectory kitchen and butteries. The W. wing probably was occupied by a guest-house. Elisec/s Pillar is in a meadow adjoining, still kno>\Ti by the Llwyn-tj-Groes, the grove of the cross, near the second milestone from Llangollen on the road to Euthin. It is a round, inscribed column, standing on a square pedestal or plinth. It appears to have been erected to the memory of Eliseg, father of Brochmail, Prince of Powys, by Concen, or Congen, his great-grandson. It was originally 12 feet in height, but having been thrown down and broken, a jmrt only is preserved which measures about 7 feet. A modern inscrip- tion records the reinstating of the broken shaft by Mr. Lloyd 170 CORWEN. of Trevor Hall, in the year 1779. In the tumulus under- neath were found, many years since, the remains of bones be- tween broad flat stones. Plus Newydd, about a quarter of a mile from the town on the S. side of the vale, is an unpretending cottage, which some time since acquired a sentimental interest in connection with its late eccentric occupants, Lady Eleanor Butler and the Hon. Miss Ponsonby. These ladies, united by mutual attachment and love of independence, withdrew hither from their connec- tions to avoid opportunities of matrimonial alliance, and enjoy the pleasures of a quiet and secluded residence. Lady Butler died in 1829, aged 90, and Miss Ponsonby in 1831, aged 76. Both, together with a faithful and valued servant, Mary Carrol, are interred in one tomb, in Llangollen churchj'ard, marked by a triangular pillar. Flas Pengvjern, at a short distance south, is a mansion which belonged about 924 to Tudor Trevor, lord of Brom- field,from whom the Mostyns have their descent. Some of the windows of the ancient house are retained entire, and an inscribed stone, supposed to be a coffin-lid from Valle Crucis Abl)ey, is built into a wall. By the EUesmere Canal, which has its course close to Llangollen and through the valley, large quantities of slates and limestone are conveyed from neighl)ouring quarries. The 10 miles' drive from Llangollen to Corwen, through Glyn Dijfrdiry, or the valley of the Dee, is replete with inte- rest. Besides tlie railway there is Telford's admirable road, formed at a considerable elevation on the side of the lower portion of the Berw^m. range of mountains, and overlooking the river Dee. The valley is associated with the personal his- tory of the celebrated chieftain, Owen Glyndwr, whose char- acter and achievements are objects of veneration to all patriotic Welshmen.* CORWEN. [Hotel : Owen Glyndwr ; Refreshment-room at Station.] Corwen need not long detain the tourist. It is a small, quiet market-town, on the S. bank of the river Dee, sheltered by a rock, at the foot of the Berwyn mountains, which rise * For a sketch of Glynd^vr's life and character, see the Cambrian Phttarch, hy J. H. Pan'y, or Shavan Turner's History of the Middle Ages. Shakspeare, in his Henr/i IV., has embodied all that is romantic and man-ellous in the tradi- tional accounts of Owen, and giving a glowing delineation of Iiis character. CORWEN. 171 abruptly behind it, and nearly all its historic interest is con- nected with the notable exploits and " barbaric grandeur " of Owen Glyndwr. The name of the town signifies the White Choir. The church, dedicated to St. Julian, Archbishop of St. David's, who died in 1009, though an ancient building, has few indications of antiquity. Near it is a large house called the College, which is, in fact, an almshouse, foimded and en- dowed by William Eyton, of Plas Warren, in Shropshire, for six widows of clergymen who, at the time of decease, held the cure of souls in Merionethshire. In the churchyard is an ornamented stone pillar, which, owing perhaps to its pointed form, is popularly called the sword of Glyndwr. On the brow of the adjacent cliff, a spot, marked by a rude pile of stones, bears the name of Glynd^^Vs Seat ; and on the summit of a hill, at the opposite side of the river, is a circle of loose stones, nearly half-a-mile in circumference, marking the site of the British fort of Caer Drewyn, one of the strong chain of forts which reached from Dyserth to Canwyd. Here Owen GwjTiedd was posted when preparing to repel the invasion of Henry II. ; and hither Owen Glynd\vr retreated when threatened by Henry IV. From these eminences there is a vast extent of mountain-view, including the Clwydian hills on the N.E. ; the Berwyn range on the S. ; Aran Mowddy and Cader Idris to the S.W. ; the two Arenigs to the W., and the mighty Snow- don, with his majestic group, far away in the N.W. Corwen is a favourite angling station. Population (of the parish, 1861), 2042. Bilff, about 2 miles from Corwen, the seat of W. Wagstaff, Esq., formerly a possession of the Vaughans, Barts. The Vaughans of Rug, HengwTt, and Nannau, all branches of the same family, are lineally descended from Owen Glyndwr, whose patronymic was Fechan, or Vaughan, i.e. little. The chapel of Eiig is worth a visit. It is remarkably diminutive, very ancient, and much dilapidated. Some carvings and frescoes which remain, but are now fast perishing, indicate that the little building was elaborately decorated. Rhagatt, the mansion of John Lloyd, Esq., is also situated in this parish, at about two miles from the town, in the oppo- site direction. 172 CUESTER A,ND RUABON TO DOLGELLT. Road from Corwen to Bettws-y-Coed, 22 miles. A delightful road extends between Corwen and Bettws-y-Coed — 5 miles by Pont-y-Glya ; 6 miles Cerrig-y-Uruidion ; 4 miles Pentre Foelas, Glau Conway, aud the Falls. The whole distance is about 22 miles. Pont-y-Gltn, or Bridge of the Gl?n, properly Ponty-Glyn Diffwys, is passed on the left of the high road about 6 nules W. from Corwen. It is a single- arched bridge, resting upon two precipitous rocks, about 60 feet above the bed of the river Geirw. The stream, which has been winding slowly and quietly along a valley, here rushes with great force over an abrupt and craggy descent directly beneath the bridge. The cataract is not lofty, but, combined with the rich foliage and the dark perpendicular rooks, a scene is formed which is remarkably picturesque and striking. Cerrig-t-Druidion [Inn : Saracen's Head} is a village situated in a cold naked district. It was formerly a considerable thoroughfare, the great road passing it at a short distance on a lower level. It was famed in Camden's time for relics of DruicUsm. He mentions particularly some remarkable specimens of the British Cistvaen, or stone chest, supposed to have been designed by the Uruids as places of close imprisonment. These, however, have been entirely displaced, and the stones of which they were formed have been used for various purposes. Some persons believe that the name of this village is properly not Cerrig-y-Druidwn, the stones of the Druids, but Cerrig-y-Druidon, the stones of the daring ones. At Pengwerwyn (or Pen-y-Gaer, as termed in the Ordnance map), a hiU about a mile E., are some remains of a Briti.sh fortification, said to have been the retreat of Caractacus after he was defeated by the Romans. Being here, together with his family, betrayed into the hands of his enemies, he was led in triumph to the Emperor Claudius, then at York. There his dignified and becoming demeanour, and his heroic, though pathetic appeal, obtained him not only his liberty but the esteem of the emperor. Pentre Foelas, a small hamlet, with a tolerable inn, is now a posting-stage on the Holyhead road, and the point of divergence for Den>>igh on the N.E., and Festiniog on the_ S.W. Cernioge-mawr, which was long celebrated as a good hotel and a busy posting-house, is now converted into a farm-house. The road here crosses an elevated bleak moor. The waters flow from it in contraiy directions ; some towards the E. fall into the Dee, and others to the W. into the Conway. The objects of interest which occur on the approach to Bettws-y-Coed will be found at page 116. The route from Corwen to Bala extends through the Vale of Edeimion by the right bank of the Dee. Five miles from Corwen we reach Llandrillo station, half-a-mile from the \'illage of that name, with a good hotel, The Dudley Ai-ms, lying at the base of Cader Fronwen (2573). We next pass Llandderfel, and, shortly afterwards, arrive at Bala StaLion, about a mile and a half to the south of the town. ITS BALA [Hotels : White Lion ; Evan's Plascoeh ; Bull's Head 1 Dolgelly, 17 miles ; Corwen, 12 ; Festiniog, 19 ; Llangollen, 22 Coach to Festiniog. is a small market-town, clean and neat, and more regularly built than most Welsh towns of similar extent. It is in the parish of Llanycil, the church of which is a mile distant. A beautiful new chapel has recently been erected, and there are others for Independents and Calvinistic Methodists. The knitting of worsted stockings, gloves, caps, and neck-wrappers, is a favourite employment ; and throughout the neighbourhood the women and children may be seen pursuing this work when sitting in the open air and walking along the road ; anil in winter evenings it is carried on within doors, with no other light than that which is yielded by a fire of peat. There is an endowed grammar-school, founded in 171 2, in which thirty boys are clothed and educated. The Calvinistic Methodists, who are numerous here, as in most parts of the principality, have a college for the training of their preachers. Here, for some time, lived and laboured the Rev. Thomas Charles, an eminently devoted and useful minister, connected with that denomination of Christians. He prepared two editions of the Welsh Bible, he compiled a Welsh Scriptural Dictionary in four volumes, which is highly esteemed, and he had an important part in originating the British and Foreign Bible Society. At the E. end of the town there is an artificial mound called Tomen-y-Bala, supposed to have been the site of a Eoman encampment, and afterwards occupied by the Welsh as one of a chain of forts across this part of the coimtry to check the incursions of the English Lords IMarchers. The elevation aff'ords a good view of the surrounding country, and. in fair weather, it is a common resort for knitters of all ages. This town is much visited by sj^ortsmen during the season of grouse-shooting, for which the heath-clad hills of the neighbourhood are favourable. Bala has a market on Satur- day, and five annual fairs, chiefly for the sale of live stock. It is one of the polling-places in the election of a member of Parliament for the county of Merioneth. Population of the town of Bala, 1341 ; of the parish of Llanycil, 2383. Mr 174 CHESTER AND RUABON TO DOLGELLY. Tennj'son, it is said, composed a considerable portion of his Idijls of the King wliilst residing here. Bala Lake (the Lake of Beauty), also called hy the natives Llyn Tegid, and in English Pimhlemere, is near to the S.W. extremity of the town. It is about four miles in length, averaging half-a-mile in breadth, and of very great depth. The water is exceedingly pure. The lake abounds with pike, perch, trout, and eels ; and there are shoals of a fish called gwyniad, from the extreme whiteness of the scales. It is a gregarious fish, found in most alpine lakes, particu- larly those of Switzerland. The largest rarely exceed 3 or 4- pounds weight. The banks of the lake are fiat and naked, and the scenery in the immediate neighbourhood is tame and uninteresting ; but the distant mountain views are very grand. The fishing anciently belonged to the abbey of Basingwerk, but the right is now claimed by Sir W. W. Wynn, who has a sporting seat at the S.W. termination, called Glan-y-Llyn. From the number of streams by which the lake is supplied, and the vast extent of mountainous country through which they flow, the lake is liable to a sudden rise, sometimes occasioning it to overflow its banks, and causing destructive floods in the adjacent country. From the W. side of the lake there is a road leading to Dinas Mowddwy and Mallwyd, by the mountain-pass called Bidch-y-Groes, or " the pass of the cross," which Mr. Borrow describes in his interesting work " Wild Wales." The road crosses the chain of the Aran mountains, considered one of the wildest parts of Wales. The ascent is toilsome, but the scenery is of the grandest character. On this road, at about 7 miles from Bala, there is a tine cascade on the river Twrch, in a highly romantic scene. The Aran mountains form a considerable range of hills running from the south-west end of Bala Lake, down towards the Cader range, which consists of a spur fiom it. Although commanding some very fine views, they are comparatively seldom asi^ended, mostly on account of the difliculty of getting to the base. They aftbrd, notwithstanding, a very pleasant mountain excursion, either from Bala or Dolgelly. The assist- ance of the train may be taken, if from Bala as far as Llanu- wchllyn Station, or if from Dolgelly to Drws-y-nant Station. In the former case, on leaving the station and gaining the CHESTER AND RDABON TO DOLGELLT. 175 main road, we turn to the left, and after passing under the line of railway, proceed onwards till we arrive at the point where the road crosses the River Cunllwydd. Here, instead of going over the bridge, we turn to the right through a gate, and follow the mountain road, which there joins the main road. Following this for about a mile, and taking care to keep on the north slope of the mountain the whole way, we must leave the beaten track and shape our own course ac- cording to the best of our ability. In this attempt it is well to keep by the ridge, which rises in a series of mounds the whole way, until we reach the top of the plateau, the extreme point being called Aran Benllyn, and which, according to the Ordnance Survey, is 2902 feet above the level of the sea. Here, weather permitting, we begin to obtain a view of the surrounding country, especially towards England, which quite repays the fatigue of the climb. The walking is now con- siderably easier, being more on a level, until we reach the foot of the last ascent. This brings us to the top of the highest point of the range, called Aran Mowddwy, being 2972 feet high. This mountain has a curious shape, being in the form of a cone divided down the centre, present- ing a straight drop on the east side of some hundreds of feet, whereas on the other sides it slopes down gradually in a suc- cession of knolls to the bottom of the valley. As far as the view is concerned, it has been preferred to that from Cader Idris, that mountain itself forming a beautiful feature in the panorama on the western side. Instead of the mass ot water which enters into the composition of the picture from the top of Cader, we obtain from Aran Mowddwy a good view of the spires of the churches of Shrewsbury, and a better view of the course of the Dee and of Bala Lake. The descent may be made in two ways, either by retracing our steps, or mak- ing a cut down to Drwsynant Station, and calling at a small inn of that name on the road side, where a good glass of ale and other refreshments can generally be procured. The proper course in this route is to make for a deep ravine which commences a little to the northwest of the summit, and through which a mountain stream makes its way. Following the latter downwards we come to a farm-road on the left bank, wliich leads down to the turnpike-road. The inn stands about a couple of hundred yards up the latter. The 176 CHESTER AND RUABON TO DOLGELLT. station is situated about a mile from the inn on the road to Dolgelly, aud there is not the slightest difficulty in finding it. In the event of the ascent being made from Dolgelly, after getting out at Drwsynant Eailway Station, we must follow the farm-road which crosses the railway close to the station, and conducts to a farm-house called Esgair Ga^y^. Still follow- ing the same road, v.athout diverging to the right or crossing the stream which descends here from the mountains, we reach the hillside, here covered with an abundance of heath. This is the princijjal grouse-shooting belonging to the Nannau estate. Beyond this the road soon comes to a termination, and we must rely on our own resources for the attainment of the summit. But there is not much difficulty in finding the way, as the Aran towers in all its majestic grandeur straight before us, and we have only to brace ourselves to the task, and make up our minds for a stiff concluding scramble. The de- scent may be made in the same way as described in the route coming from Bala. The River Dee, for which the Lake of Bala serves as a reservoir, rises in a hill called Cefn Glas, which forms part of the range running towards Dolgelly, and before entering Bala Lake it is joined by two large streams, called respec- tively the Lliw and Cynllwyd. The poet Spenser makes this the residence of the sage Timon, foster-father to Prince Arthur. " His dwelling is full low in valley green, Under the foot of Rauran's mossie tiore, From whence the river Dee, as silver clean, His tumbling billows rolls with gentle rore." The three streams unite just below the village of Llanu- wchllyn, and enter the lake at its south-western extremity. The river, according to popular belief, retains its identity although passing through the waters of the lake. Where it emerges at the N.E. corner it is spanned by a bridge, near to which a castle was erected in 1202, called Castel Oronw, of which some traces are visible. The Dee, even here a con- siderable river, is soon increased by other mountain streams, the first being the Tryweryn, which joins close to Bala, and flows by Ehiwlas the residence of Mr. Price. Till it reaches Corwen it flows in an open valley, and its course is comparatively slow . Afterwards, descending from the moun- CHESTER AND HUABON TO DOLGELLT. 177 tain table-land of North Wales, and having a fall of 300 feet in 10 miles, its course in this part is consequently rapid and turbulent. It crosses Denbighshire from W. to E., through the vale of Llangollen, and runs, with nume^o^^s windings, upwards of 30 miles to the tide-way of Chester, receiving as tributaries the Alwen, the Ceiriog, the Clywedog, and the Alyn. From Chester the Dee flows in a straight artificial channel or tidal canal, cajjable of admitting ships of 600 tons, along the marshes for about 8 miles, till it enters its proper estuary. Here it enlarges into a firth 3 miles across, forming at high water a noble ai'm of the sea ; but at ebb tide covered with sand and ooze, through which the river runs in a narrow and insignificant low-water channel. It enters the Irish Sea between the island of Great Hilbre on the N. and the Point of Ayr on the S. Efforts are perseveringly made to improve the navigation below Chester. The name of the river is sup- posed by some to be derived from Duiv, divine, and by others from DH, black. The former appears the more probable, since it is known that in the era of Druidism, the ancient Britons regarded the river with superstitious veneration and attachment. When they were drawn up along its banks, pre- pared to engage in deadly conflict with their Saxon foes, every soldier bowed down, first kissing the earth, and then devoutly drinking a small portion of this sacred water. Allusions to the supposed sanctity of the Dee are not unfrequent in the writings of our poets. Spenser, introducing it among the rivers attend- ing the marriage of the Thames and the Medway, writes — " And following Dee, which Britons long ygone, Did call Divine, that doth by Chester tend." Drayton repeatedly uses the phrase, '■'■Deis holiness;" and Milton beautifully alludes to the scene — " Where Deva spreads her wizard's stream."* * Among the Welsh Melodies, edited by Parry, is the following written by Wiffen :— " I crossed in its beauty thy Dee's Druid water, The waves, as I passed, rippled lowly and lone ; For the brave on their borders had perished in slaughtor. The noble were vanished, the gifted were gone I " N N 17» DOLGELLY. The railway from Bala to Dolgelly is carried along the east- em shore of the lake, and the route occupies a little less than an hour. The distaiice is 1 7 miles. About a mile from the foot, or southernmost extremity, of the lake, is the village of Llanuwchllyn. The country through which the line passes from this is comparatively flat, until the watershed is reached near a farm-house called Pantgwyn. Here the Pass of the Garneddwen is entered, the Aran range being on the left. The farm-house and inn of Drwsynant are two miles lower down the valley. This inn, in the old coaching days, was celebrated for its ale and oatmeal cake. Here we exchange the Dee for the Wnion, following the course of the latter for nine miles. DOLGELLY [Hotels: Golden Lion; Ship; Angel.] is the most populous and important town in the county of Merioneth, and particularly eligible as a resting-place for tourists, being a central jjoint from which numerous interest- ing excursions may be taken. It is situated between the rivers Aran and Wnion, near to the conEuence of the latter with the Mawddach, in a wide and fertile valley of rich and diversified beauty, and at the foot of the majestic mountain Cader Idris. The name signifies the dale or vale of hazels, although it does not appear that the hazel is more abundant than several other kinds of tree, all of which are luxuriant in this richly- wooded valley. The houses in the town are placed without much regard to order, and many of the older buildings are gradually giving place to modern erections of a superior class. I passed by thy pillar,* firm rooted to waken Long mem'ry of chiefs that in battle had sunk ; But the earthquake of ruin its basis had shaken. The voice of the thunder had .shattered its tnink ! " I passed by thy castle,t once mirthful and splendid, Its court was too truly an emblem of thine ; I passed by thy abbeyt — its worship was ended, The ivy hung dark over portal and shrine. Yet weep not, fair Cambria, though shorn of thy glory, Thy star shall yet rise in ascendence again ; Song and science are treasuring the leaves of thy story. Not a page shall appeal to our bosoms in vain." * Eliseg's pillar. t Dinas Bran. X Valle CrucU DOLGELLY. 179 The town cannot boast of mucli interest derived from hife:to- rical incidents. It appears to have been known to the Romans, although in evidence of this there are no existing remains, ex- cept some Roman coins found in a well, bearing this inscrip- tion — IMP. CAESAR. TRAIAN. Owen GlyndwT assembled his parliament here in 1404, and here he signed a treaty of alliance with Charles, King of France, which begins thus, in true regal style, " Owiaus Dei gratia princeps Wallise," and concludes, " Datum apud Dolguelli," etc. In the civil wars of Charles I., some of the king's troops attempted to raise a fortification about the town, to defend it against the Parlia- mentary forces, but were prevented by Mr. Edward Vaughan, who, at the head of a small party, completely routed them, and took their captain prisoner. Dolgelly has long been noted for the manufacture of a coarse woollen fabric called webs, which gives employment to a considerable number of persons. It is also the mart to which the produce of the cir- cumjacent country is brought for sale. The bridge which crosses the river Wnion was built ori- ginally in 1638, but in consequence of the railway being car- ried along the north side of the river, the approaches to the town on that side, as well as the bridge, underwent consider- able alteration. The two first arches were pulled down and built up at a higher level, as well as most of the parapets on each side, so as to allow the road to be carried over the line of railway, which is crossed by an iron girder. All the old buildings which used to occupy this part of the town were pulled down, the roads carried higher up the hill, and a good passenger-station of an ornamental description built on their sites. These alterations have considerably improved the en- trance to the town, doing away with the former sharp turns at the end of the bridge. A market-hall and assembly rooms are in course of construction, which will be of con- siderable advantage to the town. It is rather a large build- ing, of a plain and unassuming character, the upper rooms being devoted to town purposes, as well as for the holding of entertainments. The lower part is entered through a series of arches which support the upper storey, and is to be used for markets and other purposes. The Church, which has been restored within the last few years, stands upon an eminence in the midst of the town. It 180 DOLGELLY. has no pretensions to architectural beauty. There is an ancient monument, bearing an image of an armed knight, with a dog at his feet, representing an ancestor of the family of Vaughan of Naunau ; and there have been recently erected handsome monuments in memory of Baron Richards, who was a native of this place, and of the Rev. John Jones, Archdeacon of Merioneth. At the decease of a parishioner, a singular custom, which is now, however, abolished, used to be observed here : a metal plate, resembling what is usually affixed to a C(jffin, inscribed with the name of the deceased, and tlie dates of birth and death, is suspended within the chm-ch. The English services are held at the church at half-past eleven and four in summer ; half-past three in winter. "Welsh services at 10 A.M. and at 6 p.m. The County Hall is a neat, commodious stone edifice, situ- ated near the bridge, at the entrance of the town. The quarter- sessions and tlie summer assizes are held in it. In tlie grand- jury room is an admirable 2'>ortrait of Sir "W. R. Vaughan, painted by Sir M. A. Shee, and there are other portraits of local celebrities. The County Gaol is a circular stone building at the S.W. extremity of the town, erected in 1811 at an expense of £5000. To the honour of the population, it is not un- common for this building to be without a tenant. The Parliament House is the name given to a dilapidated building in a court behind the post-office, which is pointed out as tlie place where Owen GljTidwr held the meeting of his partisans, to which allusion has been made. The National School occupies a good building recently erected on the N. side of the bridge. There is also an en- dowed free school for twenty-two boys of the parish, and a British school. By ascending one of the heights on the N. side of the valley, a good view is obtained of the town, as it lies sheltered at the foot of the majestic Cader Idris ; of the course of the river through the extended dale ; of the clustering woods which adorn the opposite range of heights ; and of nttmerous villas, surrounded by their plantations, giving life and refine- ment to the scene. The town is also seen to great advanta^Lje from the old Machynlleth road at the distance of about three- DOLGELLY. 181 fourths of a mile on the S.E. The prospects from the town ill all directions are singularly fine. The population of the town is 2217 ; of the parish 3457. Tuesday and Saturday are the market-days, and fairs are held nine times in the year. Of the numerous mansions and villas in the neighhour- hood, the following may be mentioned : — Nannau, John Vaughan, Esq., and Uengwrt ; Caerynivch, E. Meredyth Rich- ards, Esq. ; Fromcnion, Lewis Williams, Esq. ; Bromjgader, Mrs. Williams ; Brpiygivin, Hugh John Reveley, Esq. ; Aher- givynant, Col. Bunbury ; Dolserau, Cliaiies Edwards, Esq., M.P. for Windsor ; Penmaen CUffe, Thomas Taylor, Esq. ; Glynviadden, William Griffith, Esq. ; and Lluyn, T. H. Wil- liams, Esq. Objects op Interest near Dolgellt. Sir R. C. Hoare afiirms that he knew of no place in the principahty whence so many pleasing and interesting excur- sions may be made, and where nature bears so rich, varied, and grand an aspect, as at Dolgelly ; but this is certainly an exaggerated opinion. The best view of Cader Idris may be obtained from a station called Bout Newydd, about three miles from Dolgelly, from whence the following two pleasant excursions may be made : — One by taking the road on the left, conducting round Moel Offrwrn into Nannau Park, with its countless walks. The other excursion is made by crossing the line of rail- way, and then the bridge which spans the river Wnion, thence following the road, which begins to ascend, and keeping to the right the whole time, after a couple of miles have been passed, we reach the top of the Torrent Walk. This may be taken on the journey home, or by getting on to the turnpike- road, and going as far as the Cross Foxes. Here, by taking the road on the right (which used to be the old road) to Dol- gelly, we obtain on the way one of the best views of the towTi and surrounding country. The Torrent Walk is situated within the romantic grounds of Caerynwch, and within a short walk of the uppei 182 . DOLGELLY. end of it the Cross Foxes Inn now affords accommodation to tourists. Ascending the ]\Iachynlleth road about one mile and a half, take a path on the left leading to the mill of Cly- wedog ; there, mthout crossing the bridge, turn to the right through a gateway, and enter a path by the side of a moun- tain-river. This path is a steep ascent, continued for a mile or more, through its whole course meeting the descending stream, which comes down, rushing and foaming, and pro- duces a series of rapids and cascades, over scattered masses of rock, between precipitous banks which are fringed and over- hung by luxuriant trees of various hues and forms. The tourist who will patiently devote two or three hours to this well-named Torre^it Walk, will acknowledge that it is one of the most remarkable and delightful scenes it is possible to visit. NanjSTAu, formerly the residence of Howel Sele, the kins- man, yet the inveterate enemy, of Owen Glyndwr, has long been the family seat of the Vaughans, who claim descent from Eoderic Mawr, king of North Wales. It is situated at a great elevation between two and three miles from the town. The road by which it is approached being a continued ascent, it has been supposed to " occupy a loftier site than any other gentleman's house in Britain." Some years ago the ancient hall was removed, and the present mansion erected. The gardens, which have been neglected for several years, once contained very rare plants. In the higher part of the grounds rises a lofty rocky eminence, the summit of which is encircled with a rampart formed of loose stones, evidently a British post. It is variously called 3/oel Orthrwn, or the Hill of Oppression, and Moel Offnom, or the Hill of Sacrifice. The Ordnance map gives the latter. Old writers have generally adopted the former. No adequate reason for either is known. Aroimd the summit of the dark height named Moel Cynwch, a path is formed, which is com- monly called the Precipice Walk, extending about three miles, and exhibiting panoramic views of the surrounding country of extraordinary beauty and grandeur. In some parts the path is narrow and rather dangerous, and it excites a nervous apprehension to find one's-self at this dizzy height, walking on the very verge of a dark deep precipice. In the park of Nannau stood^ until the year 1813, an aged oak, measuring Ty^ Chart of CADER IDRIS Sautes to Sunanil Scab- of One Mile O *» ^ ■»» 1 Tyd,hr„l, I s >\;-''', . .^- :^ \^, . v/^^- CADER IDRIS. *181 in circumference 28 feet, in the hollow trunk of which, tra- dition relates, the body of Howel Sele, Lord of Nannau, was concealed after he had been slain by Owen Glyndwr. It was well known throughout the neighbourhood as the Demands Oak and the Haunted Oak. Its end is thus recorded by Sir Richard Colt Hoare : " During a visit to Sir Robert Vaughan, in the year 1813, this aged tree attracted my notice ; and on the morning of the 1 3th of July I made a drawing of it, in one of the most sultry days I ever felt. In the succeed- ing night, which was equally hot, this venerable oak fell to the ground." Sir Walter Scott refers to the tree, and to the tragical incident connected with it, in the 5th note to the 6th canto of Marmion. The spot where this oak, " the spirit's blasted tree," so long stood, is commemorated by a sun-dial, and a brass plate with an inscription and a representation of the tree. Abergwynant Woods. — A very pleasant excursion may be made to these woods, which are situated on the south side of the estuary below Penmaenpool, and distant about 3 miles from Dolgelly. They are intersected by walks, and every now and then beautiful peeps are obtained of the estuary, and also of the country round Dolgell}'' and Llanelltyd. There is a railway station at Penmaenpool on the Cambrian line, from which tlie tourist may return. Cader Idris. The height of this mountain, reckoning from Pen-y-gader (the highest peak), is 3100. The other peaks are Cyfrwy, which the Ordnance Survey make 2929 feet, and which is reckoned as 2830 feet above the level of Dolgelly Bridge. Mynydd Moel, stated by the Ordnance Survey to be 2835 feet high, has been reckoned 2990. The distance from Dol- gelly to the summit is 6 miles, and the ascent is commonly made from that town, where guides may be easily procured. This sublime elevation, for abrupt and tremendous pre- cipices, and for varied and e.xtensive prospects, may vie witli, if it do not surpass, Snowdon itself. In altitude it is exceeded by several of the Welsh mountains, althoiigh it is frequently affirmed to rank next in height to Snowdon. It is tlie be- ginning of a long train of primitive mountains, extending in a N.N.E. direction, including the Arans and Areuigs. It 182' CADER IDRIS. consists of silicious porphjTy, quartz, and schorl, and is sur- rounded by slaty and secondary mountains, with which, in its craggy and precipitous character, it contrasts most strikingly. While on every side extremely steep, on that towards Tal-y- llyn it rises almost perpendicularly. CADER IDRIS. The course of the ascent (which will probably be best understood from the accompanying chart), and the views ob- tained from the summit, are thus described by an observant and accurate traveller : — " A small lake, called Gwernan, lies about a mile and a half on the high-road from Dolgelly to Towyn, which having arrived at, we quitted the road and began our ascent up the first steep of this lofty mountain. When we had surmoimted the exterior ridge, we descended a little to a deep clear lake (Gafr), which is kept constantly full by the numerous tributary torrents that fall from the sur- rounding rocks. Hence we climbed a second and still higher chain, up a steep but not difficult track, over numerous frag- ments of rock detached from the higher parts ; we now came to a second and more elevated lake (Llyn-y-Gader), clear as glass, and overlooked by steep cliffs, in such a manner as to resemble the crater of a volcano, of which a most accurate representation is to be seen in Wilson's excellent view of OADER IDRIS. 183 Cader Iclris. Some travellers have mentioued the finding of lava and other volcanic productions here ; iipon a strict ex- amination, however, we were unable to discover anything of the kind ; nor did the water of the lake appear to differ in any respect from the purest rock-water, though it was tried repeatedly with the most delicate chemical tests. A clear, loud, and distinct echo repeats every shout that is made near the lake. We now began our last and most difficult ascent up the summit of Cader Idris itself, which when we had surmounted, we came to a small plain with two rocky heads of nearly equal height, one looking to the north, the other to the south ; we made choice of that which appeared to us the most elevated, and seated ourselves on its highest pinnacle, to rest after a laborious ascent of three hours. We were no\< high above all the eminences within this vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks which we before looked up to with astonishment were now far below our feet, and many a small lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the north, Snowdon with its dependencies shut up the scene ; on the west we saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a vast distance by the Car- narvon mountains, and nearer, the ocean dashing its white breakers against the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded by Plinlimmon ; and on the east the eye glanced over the lake of Bala, the two Arenig mountains, the two Arans, the long chain of the Ferwyn mountains, to the Bryddin hills on the confines of Shropshire ; and dimly in the distant horizon was beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of Salop." This writer having intimated a doubt of the volcanic cha- racter of the mountain, it is proper to add that evidence of this is so abundant as to establish the fact beyond question. Numerous specimens of lava, pumice, and other volcanic matter, of most unequivocal character, have been collected from the sides and base of the mountain ; columnar crystals of basalt are scattered in profusion about the summit, and some of the inferior cliffs ; and, particularly on one side, there are vast beds of porous stones, bearing evident marks of strong igni tion and vitrification, — some reduced to the state of slag, and others having the cellular appearance and lightness of pumice. 184 WATERFALLS NEAR DOLGELLT. With respect to the name of the mountain, Cader, or Cadair, is a seat or chair ; and Idris is the apj^ellation of a reputed giant, whom the old bardic writings represent as a poet, astronomer, and philosopher, great in mind as well as of enormous bodily stature. Cader Idris is, therefore, the seat, or chair, of this renowned giant, who is supposed to have made the mountain summit his observatory. Persons who intend to ascend will do well to engage the services of Robert Pugh, who is a competent guide, fol- lowing the course of his father, who acted m tliat caj^acity for many yeai'- The "Waterfalls near DoLGi LLY loim another im- poitant atti ictioii There are three, all ol which may be included m one excursion — viz. Rhayadi Dil, oi the black cat XI act, about 5 miles from Dolgf lly , FibfyU -y- Mawd- dach, the fall or '^pout of the ]\I i\\ ddach , and Fi 'ityll-y-Cain, the f dl or spout of the Cain, within a ~^llOlt distance of each otliLi, and about 8 miles from the town They are all ap- proached b} w av of Llanelltyd hrodyK., on the load to Tan-y- Bwlch. The first, Rhayadr 1)4, is on the left of the turnpike road, in the grounds of Dol-y-melynllyn (the holm of the yellow pool), where a fine mansion has been lately built by C. E. Williams, Esq. Hence it is also called the Dol-y-melynllyn fivll. The path which conducts to it climbs a steep acclivity clothed with trees of luxuriant growth. It is on the little river Camlan, a double fall, descending about 60 feet. The FALL OF THE CAIN. WATERFALLS NEAR DOLGELLY. 185 rocks around it are black, mottled with silvery grey lichen, and overhung with trees. The water falls into a small deep basin, and then dashes forward along a rugged rocky channel, hastening to join the Mawddach. A well-laid pathway is formed to both the top and the bottom of the cataract, and it is desirable to view it from both above and below. This must be distinguished from another waterfall bearing the same name, which is found between Tan-y-Bwlch and Har- lech. At a mile farther on the turnpike road, a path to the right hand, through woods and meadows, leads to Pistyll-y- Mawddach, the spout of the Mawddach. The river of that name forces itself down a rock, between 60 and 70 feet in height, broken by the jutting rocks into three distinct falls, beneath which it is received into a large basin. The inclina- tion of the rocky strata gives to the scene a peculiar character, and the combination of wood and water and rock renders the whole strikingly picturesque and beautiful. The remaming cataract is Pistyll-y-Cain, by far the highest and most magnificent of the three. A narrow stream rushes down a vast rugged declivity, nearly perpendicular, at least 150 feet of descent. The horizontal strata, running in irregular steps through the entire breadth, form a mural front, and in some measure impair the picturesque effect, unless when hidden by a greater volume of water than is commonly found here. Numerous large fragments of rock scattered around at the bottom of the fall contribute to give an aspect of wild desolation to the scene. Amongst these rugged masses the waters force their passage, hastening to unite with those of the Mawddach, at a distance of a few hundred yards from the cataract. The scenery hereabouts is somewhat injured by mining operations : copper, lead, and zinc are raised, and small quan- tities of gold are sometimes obtained. For visiting these waterfalls, the tourist will not find it necessary to be accompanied by a guide from Dolgelly, as one may be engaged at the Oakeley Arms Inn, Tyn-y-groes, about 5 miles from that town, and in the neighbourhood of the falls. A little above this inn a wooden bridge across the river Maw- ddach has been recently constructed, which facilitates th.i access to tlie two falls last named. 186 LLAiJELLTTD — CYMMER ABBKY — HEXGWRT. Llanellttd village forms a sort of fort to Dolgelly, frcm ■which it is two miles distant. It stands on the banks of the Mawddach, and at the junction of the roads from Tan-y- Bwlch, Barmouth, and Bala. From the bridge which crosses the Mawddach, the valley, environed by mountains, is seen to great advantage. A castle is said to have formerly stood here, but not a vestige of it is discoverable, and the exact site is unknown. The parish extends 4 or 5 miles in differ- ent directions from the church, which is dedicated to St. Ultyd, and contains some good monuments. Cymmer Abbey, called by the Welsh F. Vanner, is scarcely known in the neighbourhood by the former name. The remains are two miles distant from Dolgelly, just before reaching Llanelltyd bridge. They do not form a picturesque ruin, and in their abnormal shape resemble rather a Priory church. The establishment was Cistercian, founded by Leoline, son of Gervase, about the year 1200, and dissolved TrwFP by King Henry VIII. Parts of wjjat formed the refectory and abbot's lodging are included in the buildings of a farm house. What remains of the church is more extensive, and is carefully preserved. The east end is most perfect, and through its thick covering of ivy appear three lancet windows. Against the S. wall are a few small Gothic pil- lars and arches, and near them is a mutilated stone representing the head of a human figure. This ruin must not be con- founded with Cwmhir Abbey in Radnorshire. Hengwrt, a handsome old mansion, is witliin a short dis- tance of Cymmer. Eobert CYMMEK ABBEY. Vaughan, the celebrated anti quary, who died in 1667, resided here. His valuable library is included in the literary stores of the late Sir R. W. Vaughan, whose collection of rare Welsh manuscripts ia of great extent. LLYN TAL-Y-LLYN. 1 8 i Excursions from Dolgelly may be made to Dinas Mow- cldwy and Mallinjd by way of the pass called Bwlch Oerddrws. There are three roads to Towyn (which may also be reached by rail). One is a fine mountain-road skirting the N. base of Cader Idris, and passing in succession lakes Gwernan and Creigenen, the remains of Llys Bradwen, a princely residence in the 7th century ; Llanegryn village, and the mansion and estate of Peniarth, the proj^erty and residence of the Wynne family, one of the most ancient and distinguished in Wales. This road is extremely hilly, and the distance is about 16 miles. Another (20 miles) follows the coast, and includes much beautiful scenery, a number of Druidical antiquities, the remains of Castel-y-Gaer, a British camp near the village of Llwyngwril, and Ynysymaengwyn, the mansion and de- mesne of the Corbet family. The remaining road to Towj'n is somewhat circuitous — viz. by way of the " Cross Foxes " 2|^ miles, then diverging south-westwards, along the shores of Llyn Trigraianen and the fine lake of Tal-y-llyn. Llyn Trigraianen, or the Pool of the Three Pebbles, is a small lake by the road-side, 5 miles to the S. of Dolgelly. It derives it name from three large fragments of rock, which have probably fallen from the adjacent clifi". These, it is affirmed, are three grains which the giant Idris threw out of his shoe when found troublesome in walking ! The pool is 17 feet in depth, but it contains no fish. Llyn Tal-y-llyn is a noble sheet of water which opens to the view shortly after passing the little pool, and continues full in sight during the whole of a long steep descent to the Blue Lion, a road-side inn at Minffordd. The proper appel- lation is Lhjn Mvjyvgil, i.e. Lake of the Pleasant Retreat ; and the small village at the S.W. extremity is Tal-y-llyn, i.e. Head of the Pool. It is a mile and a half long, and not exceeding half-a-mile in breadth, and lies directly under the S. and most precipitous side of Cader Idris. It is, in many respects, beautiful, but hardly deserves the extravagant eulogies which have been bestowed upon it. It contains good trout, and is much resorted to by anglers, for whose accommo- dation the late Sir Robert Vaughan erected in the village a commodious inn, called Tg'n-ij-cornel. The original inn — Pen-y-bont — is close to the bridge, and very comfortable, and from both visitors have the privilege of angling on the lake. 188 DOLGELLT TO BARMOUTH. From tlie foot of the lake issues the principal feeder of tlie river Dysynni, which, after winding through some beautiful scenery, has its outlet near Towyn. If the tourist should wish to proceed to Towyn from Tal-y-llyn, he may take the advantage of the branch railway from Abergynolwyn, about 5 miles distant (40 minutes). DOLGELLY TO BAEMOUTH. Barmouth may be conveniently reached from Dolgelly by railway, the distance being nearly 9 miles. The coast road (10 miles) has been truly described as a continued series of pictures. If possible, the time of high water should be chosen, and for the return to Dolgelly a boat* may be engaged at Bannouth, Avhereby the views will be diversified. The road is a substitute for one formerly extremely hilly and difficult, and was formed with immense labour and cost through the rocks, and guarded by a wall. The expanse of water at high tide is considerable, and assumes the appearance of a large lake enveloped bj' moun- tains, among which rises the summit of Cader Idris. On approaching Baruiouth, the river is seen falling into the ocean, and the bay of Cardigan is spread out in view. The late Sir T. N. Talfourd, whose taste and discrimination are indisputable, in writing of this scenery compares it with that of the Rhine near Drachenfels, and does not hesitate to assign superiority to the Welsh landscape. " When on board a steamer on the Rhine, approaching the Drachenfels, a native of Merionethshire inquired if this was the Rhine which he had been told was so beautiful, adding, ' I think we can match it between Dolgelly and Barmouth.' ' Indeed you can,' was my reply, and surely the Welshman was right. Let any one who has knowledge of the two scenes call to memory that glorious estuary, reposing in beauty, and crowded with grandeur ; look down its avenue of sparkling water to the distant sea, glistening in the western light ; let him glance on the one side at its curving shore of * A boat sails from Barmouth to Penmaen Pool daily, about au hour before bigli water, returning soon after the tide begins to ebb. Fare, 6d. each way. ilAKMOUTH. 189 oak-sprinkled meadows, edged and broken by rock, and on the other to the pillared precipices of Cader Idris, and then, with all respect to the noble substance of the flowing Rhine, gaze at its vine-spotted banks, and say if there is the faintest approach to rivalry." BARMOUTH, IHotel : Corsygedol Anns.] or Aher-maiv, is a watering-place situated at the N. side of the estuary of the river Maw, or Mawddach, on Barmouth bay, and it is the only haven in the county of Merioneth. The houses are built at the foot and upon the sloping side of a lofty and steep rock, some of them being disposed on the level of the sandy beach, and others on the acclivity, where they form successive terraces, to which there is no approach but by steps cut in the rock. Great improvements have been effected of late years, and for sea-bathing quarters it now forms an agreeable residence. The lower buildings are occasionally subjected to the drifting of the sand, but there is little annoy- ance from this excepting during severe gales. Barmouth has been frequently, but most absurdly, compared with Gibraltar and Edinburgh. It has the advantage of smooth sands, and there is comfortable accommodation for visitors. The parish church, Llanaber, is about a mile and a half from the town, upon the extreme verge of a cliff which looks to- wards the ocean. After having undergone a complete restora - tion, it was reopened in 1859, and is now one of the finest specimens of simple ecclesiastical architecture. The archway inside the porch is one of the most perfect specimens of its kind. A chapel of ease for Barmouth was erected by sub- scription in 1830. It is most injudiciously placed in a situation mush exposed to the inconvenience of drifting sand, a strong wind from seaward causing it not only to obstruct the approach, but actually to block up the windows. Barmouth has some trade in flannel and hosiery, and about a hundred small sloops belong to the port. The entrance to the harbour is difficult, and even dangerous, on account of two sandbanks call(;d the north and south bars, and incessant shifting of the loose sands. The river is navigable for small boats nearly as high as Dolgelly. The streams and lakes in the vicinity 190 HARLECH. abound in salmon, trout, eels, and mullets. There are markets on Tuesday and Friday, and four annual fairs. Popu- lation of the town, 930 ; of Llanaber parish, 1672. Barmouth is now connected by the coast line of railway ■with Harlech and Portmadoc on the north, and Towyn on the south. HARLECH, [Hotel : Blue Lion.] sometimes written Harleigh and Harddlech, signifies Bold Rock, a name apparently derived from the situation. The ruins of a once important fortress occupy the summit of an elevated rock, about half-a-mile from the sea. There is no certain evidence that this place was at any time occupied by the Romans, but the frequent discovery of Roman coins in the neighbourhood renders it highly probable. The earliest reference which we possess to the existence of a fortress on this site dates as far back as the 3d century, when, in the days of Bran Fendigaid, or Bran the Blessed, his daughter Bronwen, or White-Bosomed, had her residence here, probably in captivity, or forced seclusion. Hence, a tower erected here was called Twr Bronwen. About the year 550 this tower gave place to a more substantial edifice, built by ]\Iaelgwyn Gwynedd, prince of North Wales. In the early part of the 10th century, we read of Harlech Castle being repaired by Cohvyn, lord of Ardudwy, founder of one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales ; from whom it acquired and long retained the name of Caer Colwyn. The present structure owes its erection, like many others in the principality, to the policy and enterprise of Edward I. Though, in most respects, infe- rior to the castles of Carnarvon and Conway, it bears indubi- table evidence of having been reared at the same period, and from the designs of the same architect ; retaining, however, considerable portions of the more ancient structure. It appears to have been quadrangular, each of its sides measuring from 200 to 220 feet, with round towers of great strength and solidity at the angles, and at the sides of the principal entrance ; and each tower was surmoimted by a light and elegant turret, now nearly destroyed. On the west side, next the sea, the perpendicular cliEf on which the castle was erected ren- 191 dered it inaccessible ; and on the east, or land side, it was protected by a wide fosse hewn out of the rock, with a draw- bridge and advanced bastion. In the struggles of Owen Glyndwr, he obtained possession of Harlech Castle ; but, HARLECH CASTLE. after four years, he was compelled to surrender it to Prince Henry. In 1460, after the defeat of Henry VI. at Northamp- ton, his wife, Margaret of Anjou, took refuge here. In the wars of the Roses it was held for the house of Lancaster by Dafydd-ap-Iefan-ap-Einion, distinguished alike by his statiu-e and by his valour. From him Edward IV., during several years, strive in vain to wrest the fortress, but at length he was com- pelled by famine to surrender. This siege gave occasion to the well-known spirited air, entitled " The March of the Men of Harlech." During the civil war in the time of Charles I. and the Commonwealth, Harlech had a large share of conflict and vicissitude, being more than once alternately in the pos- session of each party. The castle is now vested in the Crown. Harlech was made a free borough by Edward I. It was formerly a place of considerable importance, but has dwindled to an insignificant village. It is still nominally the county 192 TAN-T-BWLCH. town, and lias a miserable building called the town-liall, in wliich. the elections of a member of parliament for Merioneth- shire take place. The assizes are held alternately at Dolgelly and Bala. Harlech is in the parish of Llandamvg, the popu- lation of Avhich, including the town, in 1871 was 739. The parish church being much decayed, and situated at a distance of two miles, a church was erected in the town in 1841. The whole of an extensive district around Harlech, particularly that part to the south named Dyffnjn Ardudwy, is one of the most valuable antiquarian fields in the principality. Druidi- cal remains are especially numerous. Four miles east of Har- lech is Cwm Bychan, or the little hollow, a narrow verdant dell, nearly a mile in length, with a small lake at its entrance walled in by stern precijiitous rocks. Two or three miles south of this remarkable pass is one of the wildest and most romantic scenes, called Dnvs Ardudwy, or the Door of Ardudwy. Nothing can exceed the dreariness and desolation of this ravine, overshadowed by the rugged, frowning clitfs of Rliinog-fawf and Rhinog-fach. Some remains of ancient fortifications may be traced, and there are two upright monumental slabs, known as Meini Gwijr Ardudwy, or Stones of the Men of Ardudwy, memorials, probably, of some sanguinary contest for the pos- session of this important pass. TAN-Y-BWLCH. [Hotel: Oakeley Anns.] From Harlech or Portmadoc to Tan-y-Bwlch and ]\laent- •wrog is an easy ride by railway. The commodious hotel of this name (which signifies Below the Pass), has been long celebrated as a favourite resort of Welsh tourists. The house, standing alone, considerably elevated, and having an extensive frontage, commands a fine view of a tranquil cultivated valley, through which the little river Dwyryd, after its descent from the mountains above Festiniog, winds quietly forward to discharge its waters, at Traeth-Bach, into the bay of Cardigan. The village of Maentwrog is seen, in picturesque beauty, at the S.E., with the steep road to Festiniog ascending behind it. Across the valley, on the S., is the road to Harlech, and close at hand is the entrance-lodge of Flos Tan-y-Buich, the resi- dence of Mrs. Oakeley. To the beautiful grounds by which MAENTWROQ. 193 this mansion is surrounded visitors at the hotel will readily gain access, and here they will find much to interest and delight, in the romantic walks amongst luxuriant hanging woods to a great elevation beliind the house, and especially in a noble terrace at the front, which commands another and most charming view of the valley, with the meanderings of tlie river to the head of the estuary, and a wide sweep of sur- rounding heights ; a panoramic range of scenery rarely surpassed in interest and splendour. It was of this scene that Mr. Wyndham wrote, " If a person could live upon land- scape, he would scarcely desire a more eligible spot than this." The Roman road from Uriconium to Segontium passed through the neighbourhood, and various Roman relics, such as coins, urns, and inscribed stones, have at different times been dis- covered. About a mile to the south-east of Tan-y-Bwlch is MAENTWROG. [Hotel: Grapes.] This village is situated on the S. bank of the Dwyryd, in the centre of a picturesque valley, and derives its name from a monumental stone (maen) in the churchyard, said to have been raised to the memory of Twrog, a British saint of the 7 th century. At the hotel, and lodging-house in the village, good accommodation may be obtained. The celebrated Welsh poet. Archdeacon Prys, was rector of this parish. To him the "Welsh are indebted for a metrical version of the Book of Psalms, the first in their language, and in general use to this day. Population, 883. About two miles on the Harlech road, in a wooded glen, are two most interesting waterfalls ; one called Rhayadr DH (the Black Cataract, a name frequently occurring), and the other the Raven Fall. In the former, the water of a stream called the Felin Rhyd flows down a steep chan- nel, and is thrown with great force over three black smooth rocks, so placed as to separate the waters and send them off in three directions. The depth of the fall is about 40 feet. The whole course of the stream, for some distance below, is extremely grand. The Raven Fall is not more than a quarter of a mile distant, and is quite equal in beauty and grandeur. It consists of six dill'erent descents, amidst dark pre^'ipitou.'; O N 194 FESTINIOG. rocks, densely shaded by luxuriant wood. About three miles to the east of Maentwrog is FESTINIOG, [Hotels : Pengwem Arms ; Abbey Arms ; Queen's, close to quarries.] or the Place of Hastening (famous for its slate-quarries), situated at the head of the vale which is generally, though not very properly, called by its name. It stands at a considerable elevation above Maentwrog, and is surrounded by wild and barren mountains. A new church has lately been built and endowed, chiefly by the liberality of Mrs. Oakeley. The TAIiE OF FESTINIOG FROM ROAD TO HARLECH, parish is extensive, and has a population of 4553. A large National School is well supported. Dissenters of different denominations have places of worship. From the churchyard is an admirable view of the valley extended beneath, richly wooded and finely watered, environed at its head with majestic mountains, and opening at its lower extremity to the beautiful bay of Cardigan. The often-quoted expressions of Lord Lyttelton, in a letter to Mr. BoAver, ought not, perhaps, to be omitted : — " With the woman one loves, with the friend of one's heart, and with a good study of books, one might pass an age in this vale and think it a day. K you have a FALLS OF THE CYNFAEL. 195 mind to live long and to renew your youth, come and settle at Festiniog." Encomiums lavished on this spot by other writers are not repeated here, lest expectations should thereby be imduly raised, only to occasion disappointment. In the neighbouring mountains, to the N.E. of Festiniog, are the extensive slate-quarries belonging to Lord Newborough, the late Lord Palmerston's representatives, and IVIrs. Oakeley. They employ more than 2000 workmen. The slates, which are of the very finest quality, are conveyed by railway to Port- madoc, a distance of 14 miles, the whole length being an in- clined plane of pretty uniform descent, 1 in 120. The falls of the Cynfael have been so accurately described by Mr. Roscoe, that we adopt his descrijDtion here : — " The way to these terrific falls lies across the fields, in a pretty direct line from the front of the inn (at Festiniog), and then winds through a wood to the first fall, the distance being about half- a-mile. The upper one rushes over three projections of dark rocks, which rise like steps one above another, into a deep black basin, rendered still darker by the shadowing precipices, intermingled with huge, protruding, stony masses ; while the darkness and solitude of the place are increased by the sad- coloured foliage of the trees overhanging the rapid stream from each of its banks. A few yards lower down, a bold columnar rock, called Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit,* rises from the bed of the river ; passing which and crossing the river by means of a rustic stone bridge, within five minutes' walk is seen the second falL It is much less extensive than the other, and * Of this 'bard, magician, and warrior, for he claimed all these titles, the following anecdote is recorded : — When he was a yoang man he made a stone seat to put at the door of his house, which was not far from hence, and his wife's sister was the flrst who sat upon it. "Molly," he said, "you have sat first upon this bench, and you must pay me three kisses for it." The demand was satiated. SoviVine afterwards his wife died, and he went to London ; leaving his sister-in-iaw, then married, and her husband. He enlisted into the Parliament's forces, in which he soon obtained a commission ; and he was in the army of General Monk at the restoration of Charles II. After having been from home many years, and at length growing old, he returned to his native country. Arriving at his own house, one fine summer's evening, he saw his sister-in-law, her husband, and their children, sitting on the same stone bench, eating flummery and milk. Without making himself known, he asked them in English if they would give him a night's lodging, but none of them knew a word of this language. They, however, conjectured what he wanted, and showed him a bed, the best in the cottage, but asked him to partake of their fare before he retired to rest. This he did, and being satisfied with his hospitable reeep 196 PESTINIOG. precipitates itself in a small stream down a shelving rock about 40 feet in height. It then hounds along a narrow chasm, and, struggling among the many-coloured rocks, reflects a variety of tints, as it falls from slope to slope, till, finding a more even bed, it at length meanders quietly through the vale, and mingles with the waters of the Dwyryd. Great caution is necessary in seeing these waterfalls, many places being covered with underwood, and the paths in others being under- mined by the action of wind and rain. I also made an excur- sion from Festiniog to the giand cataract and glen called Rhayadr Cwm. This rude and stupendous scene is observed from the road leading towards Yspytty Evan and Pentre Foelas ; but to appreciate its sublimity, the traveller shoiQd descend the mountain, which, however, is almost an unfrequented solitude, although the neighbouring roads have recently been much improved. Seen, as I had the opportunity, when the Sim had flared through his zenith, and the lengthening sha- dows began gradually to creep over the valley, the immensity of the rocks and the wildness of the landscape gave rise to feelings of wonder and sui-prise. Scrambling over the inter- vening objects, I reached an angle of a clitf, midway in the ascent, where the grandeur of the surrounding scenery cannot fail to interest the timid observer, who, perhaps, would not dare to venture lower into the glen. The little stream is noticed in its almost perpendicular course, sparkling over the rocks, after which it dashes its crystal waters through the ob- structions of the vale. The surrounding mountains are black tion, addressed them in Welsh, In an extempore stanza, which may be tlms translated : — " For wines delicious mighty France is praised. And various dainties are for London raised ; With butter, Holland half the world supplies, But milk and flummery more than all I pri2e." What ! you are a Welshman, my good friend ?" exclaimed his sister. " Yes,'' said he, " I am ; it is many years since I had three kisses from the female who first sat on this bench." He was immediately recognised with the utmost joy. He then took from his pocket a large purse filled with gold, and throwing it into her lap, " Here," said he, " take this as a reward for your hospitality to the old English stranger, who is more than fourscore years of age ; he requires for it no- thing more than a bed every night, and flummery and milk every day while he lives." From this time he resided with them. He was venerated throughout the country as a sage, and after his death, it was imagined or pretended that his voice was still heard amidst the roar of the waterfalls. FESTINIOG TRAWSFYNYDD. 197 and precipitous, and the glen, heathy and barren, appears more striking after viewing the lich and varied landscapes in the vale of Festiniog." Graves of the Men of Ardudwy {Beddau Owyr Ardud- wy) are on a hill three miles N.E. from Festiniog. There are between 30 and 40 oblong mounds, from 2 to 3 feet high, 6 feet long, and 1 5 inches broad, every one having a small stone at each end. Near them are a carnedd and several circles of stones. The tradition respecting these memorials is as fol- lows : — The men of Ardudwy made an incursion into the vale of Clwyd, and brought away a number of women, whom they conducted to this part of the country. Being pursued, and here overtaken by the warriors from the vale, a battle ensued, and the men of Ardudwy were all slain. They had, however, so gained the affections of their fair prey, that, rather than return home, the women rushed into an adjacent pool, called after this event Llyn-y-Morwynion, " The Maiden's Lake," where they all perished. The slaiightered men were buried at this spot, and the mounds mark the place of interment. The whole of this district is a favourite resort of anglers. Trawspynydd is a rather populous village, situated in a wild and dreary district about 4^^ miles south of Maentwrog on the road to Dolgelly, but being much elevated it com- mands grand views of the Harlech and Snowdon mountains, and has strong claims on the attention of the antiquary. The Koman causeway, Sam Helen, attributed to Helena, daughter of a British prince and wife of the Emperor Maximus, may be traced to a considerable extent both N. and S., nearly parallel with the turnpike road. It is at present to be distinguished only by its elevation of several feet above the adjacent level ; but on digging, the several layers of stones with which it is formed are easily discovered. It is 8 yards broad, and covered with turf. About 2 miles N. are the remains of Castell Tomen- y-MiLr. This is on Sam Helen, ajid is the Roman station, Heriri Mons. It is well defined, measuring nearly 300 yards in one direction and 200 yards in the other. At a distance of between 3 and 4 miles E., in the dreary pass of Cwm Prysor, are some remains of another Roman fort, named Castell Prysor. In both these situations Roman bricks, tiles, urns, and coins, have been discovered. British antiquities, also, as cromlechs and cairns, are nimierous on the hills, 198 TOWYN. whicli, thoiigli now bare, were anciently, in many places, covered with forests of oak. The parish of Trawsfynydd ex- tends about 10 miles from E. to W., and 8 miles from N. to S. It has a population of 1517. Much property on these hills is vested in the Crown. Anglers will find good sport here- abouts. A few miles beyond Trawsfynydd the country becomes richly wooded, and the road passes near to the celebrated waterfalls which have been described in connection with the town of Dolgelly. TOWYN [Hotels: Corbet's Arms ; Commercial.] is a small town, situated near the mouth of the River Dysynni. The mountains in the neighbourhood are lofty and noble, and the roads to Dolgelly, Tal-y-llyn, and Machynlleth, pass through much grand and beautiful scenery. The beach, which is nearly a mile distant, consists of remarkably hard, smooth sand, extending nearly 5 miles, favourable for bathing, walk- ing, and riding. Great numbers of visitors resort to these sands for bathing. The chiu'ch, dedicated to St. Cadfan, is an ancient cruciform structure, containing several curious old monuments. Here is a stone pillar originally erected in the churchyard, but now laid ou the church-floor, called St. Cad- fan's Stone. It is about seven feet long, two of its sides are ten inches broad, the other two not more than six inches, and each side is rudely inscribed. It is believed that the inscrip- tion is in the old British language, and the characters appear to be debased and imperfect Roman, but all attempts to de- cipher and translate have resulted in little better than con- jectures, no one of which can be deemed satisfactory. Cadfan, whom it seems designed to commemorate, was a holy man of Armorica, who came over to Wales in the early part of the sixth century, " to refute the Pelagian heresy," and founded the churches of To\vyn in Merionethshire and Llaugadfan in Montgomeryshire. Contiguous to the west side of the church is a large square well, called St. Cadfan's Well, formerly sup- l)osed to be efficacious in cutaneous and rheumatic diseases. TOWYN xVBERDOVKY. 199 On a height near the towTi are some remains of an ancient castle of great strength, one apartment in which, 36 feet long, was hewn out of the rock. In the vale of Dysynni, not far from Towyn, is Craig-Aderyn, or Bird's Eock, in the highest degree wild and romantic. It is the resort of cormorants, guillemots, and other sea-birds. A small but picturesque waterfall may be seen at Dolgoch. At about a mile from the town is Ynys-xj-maengvnjn, the noble mansion of the family of Corbet, now unoccupied. It is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Dysynni, and has extensive gardens and planta- tions, with many rare trees and plants, among which is an evergreen oak, deemed the finest tree of its kind in the king- dom. A former proprietor of this estate, Athelstone Corbet, Esq., was distinguished by public sjjirit, and effected much for the improvement of the neighbourhood. The angler will find this a capital station, as the rivers Dysynni and Dovey and other streams afford excellent sport, and the celebrated fishing lake Tal-y-llvn is within reach. Population of the parish of Towyn, including the village of Aberdovey, and ten townships, 2859. Aberdovey is a small hamlet, four miles S. from Towyn, on the N. bank of the estuary of the Dovey (Welsh, Dyji)^ gradually rising into repute as a bathing-place. It has a good hotel, and a small number of respectable lodging-houses. 200 MONTGOMERYSHIRE. MONTGOMEKYSHIEE. This is wholly au inland county, in no part bordering on the sea, and is surrounded by the counties of Merioneth, Den- bigh, Salop, Eadnor, and Cardigan. In form it is an irregular oblong, extending from N.E. to S.W. about 35 miles, and from N.W. to S.E. from 25 to 30 miles, and it includes an area of 755 square statute mUes, and consequently 483,200 acres. The Berwyn mountain-range lies along its N. border ; Plin- limmon is at its S.AV. extremity ; and, with the exception of some considerable valleys, of which that of the Severn is the most extensive, the surface is generally rugged and moun- tainous. Plinlimmon gives rise to several rivers, of which the principal are the Severn and the Wye. The Severn has a lengthened course within the county, flowing E. and N., and watering the important manufacturing towns of Llanidloes, Newton, and Welshpool. The Wye, having its course more to the S., quickly leaves this county and enters Eadnorshire. Other rivers are the Dyfi, the Fyrnwy, the Clywedog, and the Tanat. Montgomeryshire has the reputation of being the best wooded county in Wales, and was formerly a principal source of the supply of oak timber for the navy. Slate is generally diffused over the county, and forms the basis of the moun- tains. Coal is raised on the borders of Shropshire, and there are some lead-mines, not, however, very productive. The agriculture, though much improved, must still be described as not in an advanced condition, resembling that of Denbigh and Merioneth. The vales have long been celebrated for a superior breed of horses. The hilly tracts are chiefly used as sheep-walks. This county is the principal seat of the Welsh flannel manufacture, which is extensively carried on in nearly every part, and especially in and around the towns at the S.E. The old British name of this part of the principality was Swydd Tre Faldwyn, or the shire of Baldwyn ; so called from MONTGOMERYSHIRE. gOl a Norman adventurer who did homage to William the Con- queror for this division of Cambria, and erected a fortress near the site of the present county town. The modern name is derived from Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsljury in the time of William Rufus, who founded the castle, whence the town of Montgomery, and afterwards the whole district, took that appellation. When the arrangement of counties was finally settled, in the time of Henry VIII., this name was retained. Among the Britons it was included in the territory of the Ordovices, and by the Romans it was comprised in the province of Britannia Secunda. In consequence of its vicinity to England, it was, through several centuries, the frequent scene of conflict between the native Britons and their hostile neighbours. British remains are numerous. Between Llan- fair and Mallwyd is a tumulus, 70 yards in circumference ; on the summit of a mountain near Llandinam is a strong British camp, and other antiquities of the same era are dis- persed through the county. Of Roman encampments and fortifications there are remains at Caersws, at Mathrafal, and near Montgomery. The roads formed to connect these stations may, in various parts, be traced, and in their vicinity nimier- ous minor relics have at different times been discovered. Montgomeryshire has two representatives in the House of Commons — one for the county, and one for the town of Mont- gomery with its contributory boroughs, which are Newton, Welshpool, Llanidloes, LlaufylUn, and Machynlleth. Popu- lation of the county, 67,789. The county is traversed throughout by the Cambrian Railway, from Oswestry or Shrewsbury to Welshpool, thence via Abermule and Moat Lane Junction to Machynlleth, where it meets the Aberystwith and coast line. The follow- ing are some of the principal stations on this route : — Oswestry, Shrewsbury, Llanymynech for Llanfyllin, Welsh- j^ool, Montgomery, Abermule, Newtown, Moat Lane Junction (branch to Llanidloes), Cemmes Road for Dinas Mowddwy and Mallwyd, Machynlleth, Borth, and Aberystwith — the last two being in Cardiganshire. The following are descriptions of the principal of these places : — 202 OSWESTRY. OSWESTRY. [Hotel: Wynnstay Anus.] This town may be called one of the keys of Wales, al- tliough beyond its bounds, being within the county of Salop. It is 18 miles from Whitchurch and 1 5 from Welshpool, on the Cambrian, Shrewsbury, and Welshpool Railway. It is a municipal borough and market-town, and was formerly sur- rounded by walls, portions of which stUl remain, and there were four gates. Some of the old timber houses stUl remain ; but the greater number are of modern erection, built chiefly of brick. Tlie streets are clean and well paved. Of the public buildings, the principal are — the church with its high ivy-covered tower, the town-hall, theatre, and small jail. Another church has been recently erected ; and there are several Dissenting places of worship. Oswestry has several schools, a savings bank, dispensary, etc. Flannel and coarse linen cloth are manufactured in small quantities ; and in the \'icinity there are coal-mines, and paper and corn mUls. Races are held annually in September ; and there are several yearly fairs. Oswestry is supposed to derive its name (ori- ginally Oswaldstree) i'rom Oswald, King of Northumbria, who was killed in battle here in 642. It was of great importance in early times, as one of the border-towns of Wales, as re- marked by Chiu-chyard : — " This town dotli froiit on Wales as right as lyne, So sondrie towns in Shropshire do for troth, As Ozestri, a prattle town full fine, It stands so trim, and is maintayned so cleane." On a hill to the west of the town are the remains of a castle, supposed to be as old as the Norman Conquest. Population, 7308. The face of the county of Shropshire on the western side has much of the wild appearance of Wales, and several of the Welsh mountain-chains extend across the frontier into the county, such as the Berwyn Hills in the north, which rise to the height of 1300 feet ; the picturesque Breiddin Hills, on the right bank of the Severn ; and a long range of smooth, rounded hiUs, extending from Radnorshire, known under the name of Clun Eorest. Throughout the rest of the county the OSWESTRY. 203 surface is rather undulating, tolerably wooded, and with many beautiful rivulets meandering along the valleys. The whole tract of country in the east and north, from Wellington towards between Oswestry and Chirk, exhibits the mild beauties of a fertile and cultivated district, ornamented with several seats of noblemen and gentlemen, which present a most pleasing succession of pictures. In the portion south and west of the Severn, there are three jji'incii^al chains of hills, extending from S.W. to N.E. — namely, on the west the Longmynd, in the centre the Caradoc Hills, and on the east Wenlock Edge. The last of these rises abruptly out of the vallej^ on the west, but has a very gradual slope towards the east. The Caradoc Hnis extend across the Severn, and terminate in the well- known hUl called The WreJcin. That singular insulated mountain, which is visible from Cader Idris on a clear day, rises from a plain to the height of 1320 feet, exhibiting its sugar-loaf form over the tops of the smaller elevations in its vicinity. In the southern division of the county, the Brown Clee Hill and the Titterson Glee Hill rise to greater elevations than the Wrekin, and produce nuich picturesque variety. These two are the highest summits in the county ; the former reaching the height of 1805, and the latter that of 1750 feet. The chief river is the Severn, which has its source near the summit of Plinlimmon, and runs through the whole extent of the coimty from N.W. to S.E. It is navigable at all seasons to the Bristol Channel downwards, and in wet seasons upwards to Welshpool. Shropshire is remarkable for its canals, which yield to none in the skill of their construction, the obstacles they have surmounted, or the beneficial consequences by which they have been followed. The first of these was a private under- taking by a Mr. Reynolds, completed in the year 1788, for the conveyance of his ironstone and coals. It was of no great length, but a descent of 73 feet was conducted by a well-con- trived inclined plane and double railroad, by means of which the loaded boat passing down drew up another with a load nearly equal to one-third of its ovm weight. This contrivance was found to be applicable to similar purposes upon a larger scale, and was adopted in the construction of the Sliropshire Canal, which passes through the most considerable ii'on and 204 OSWESTRY. cnal works, till it reaches the Severn. The Ellesmere Canal is a most important midertaking, as by it a commuuication is opened between the Severn and all the great canals and rivers in the north of England. Bristol and Liverpool are thus con- nected by inland navigation ; and the rivers Severn, Dee, Mersey, Trent, and Humber, are united for the purposes of conveA'ance. In no county of England are valuable mineral productions so profusely scattered beneath the surface of the soil. The chief of these minerals are lead, iron, limestone, freestone, pipe-clay, and coals. The iron-ore is found contiguous to the coal, and frequently close to it, as in the peculiarly rich dis- trict of Coalbrookdale. This district is about 8 miles long and 2 broad, on the banks of the Severn, on the western side of the Wrekin. The works of the dale supply both iron and coal, as well as limestone, in great quantities ; and every part of the process, from digging the ore to the completion of the manufacture, including the conversion of the coal into coke, is performed on the spot. Ailhur Young, describing this part of the coimty, says — " Coalbrookdale is a winding glen, be- tween two immense hills, which break into various forms, being all thickly covered, and forming most beautiful sheets of hanging woods. The noise of the forges, mills, furnaces, etc., with all their vast machinery, the flames bursting from the furnaces, with the burning coal, and the smoke of the limekilns, are altogether horribly sublime." Soon after it was ascertained that iron might be made with coals reduced to the state of coke, as well as from wood, the operation of coking was begun here by Lord Dundonald, with a view to obtain the fossil tar in the course of the process. This opera- tion led to the important discovery of coal-gas. The iron- works, though first begun on a large scale in this dale, are by no means confined to it ; but in many other parts of the county are carried on to an extent unequalled in any other country but Great Britain. Before the Roman conquest of Britain, the present countj of Shropshire was divided by the Severn between the Cornavi on the east and the Ordovices on the west. Under the Romans the same river formed the boundary between Flavia Caesariensis and Britannia Secunda, the latter comprehending the modern "Wales, and the former the centre of England. OSWESTRY. 205 Numerous remains of old Britisli camps still exist in various parts of the county, especially one called Caer Caradoc, near Church Stretton, and the Gaer ditches near Clun. The latter is believed by some to be the j^lace where Caractacus was de- feated by Ostorius Scapula. The chief Eoman station was Uriconium, now Wroxeter, where there are extensive remains. There is also a camp near Bridgnorth, and a Eoman road known by the name of Watling Street traverses the county. After the departure of the Romans and the invasion of Britain by the Saxons, this county was the scene of frequent encounters between the natives and the invaders ; and many of the half mythical exploits of the celebrated King Arthur are said to have taken place here. Ultimately the Saxons extended their dominion as far as the foot of the Welsh hills, and established in Shropshire and the adjacent county a kingdom called My- renaland, or Mercia, the land of the marchmen or borderers. In order to defend this country from the attacks of the Welsh, Oflfa, one of its kings, erected a dyke extending from the Dee to the Bristol Channel. Several portions of this fortification may still be traced in the extreme west of Shropshire, and are still known under the name of OfFa's Dyke. At a later period the Danes also penetrated as far as this part of the country, and built a fortress on the Severn below Bridgnorth. When they were expelled, and the Heptarchy imited under Alfred, Shropshire was made a county, deriving its original name of Scrohhescyre from Scrobheshurg, or Shrewsbury, its chief town. 20 n SHREWSBURY. SHREWSBURY. [Hotels : The Raven ; The Lion ; The George ; Tlie Crown.] This fiue old English town being frequently chosen for the commencement or the termination of tours in "Wales, for which its situation renders it peculiarly favourable, requires to be noticed here. It is the capital town of Salop, or Shropshire, nearly in the centre of that county, and it frequently takes the name of the shire, Salop. Its ancient British name was Pengwern. It occupies an elevated peninsula, formed by a remarkable horse-shoe bend of the river Severn. It is sup- posed to have been built by the British, in the 5 th centurj^, shortly after the destruction of the Roman station Uriconium. William the Conqueror gave the town, together with the title of Earl, to Roger de Montgomery, one of his followers, who erected here a strong baronial castle. In 1102 the castle and property were forfeited to the crown. The town and its vicinity were the scene of many border frays between the Welsh and English. In 1277 Edward I. fixed his quarters here, and added materially to the strength of the fortress. In 1403 a desperate battle was fought near the town, between the royal army commanded by Henry IV., and that of the rebel Earl of Northumberland, under the command of the famous Lord Percy, sumamed Hotspur ; when the death of the latter decided the victory in favour of the king. During the wars of the Roses, Edward IV., after the defeat and death of his father, Richard, Duke of York, raised an army among the townspeople, with which he vanquished the opposite faction at Mortimer's Cross. In the war between Charles I. and the Parliament, the inhabitants warmly espoused the cause of the former ; but in 1645 the town yielded to the Parlia- mentary troops under Col. Mytton, and the fortifications were destroyed. After the Restoration the ruined castle and the property attached to it were given by Charles II. to the Earl of Bradford, from whom they have passed to the present proprietor, the Duke of Cleveland. Allusions to the town of Shrewsbury, and to the historical events and characters asso- ciated with it, are frequent, as is well known, in the writings of Shakspeare. The streets, as in most ancient towns, are irregular, but SHREWSBURY. 207 they are rendered, in no ordinary degree, picturesque and in- teresting by a great number of elaborately constructed timber houses, with their antique gables and overhanging storeys. In few places are there such admirable specimens of the domestic architecture of former ages, and in none are build- ings of this character more carefully preserved. Among the public buildings are the following : — The Royal Free Gram- mar School, founded and endowed by Edward VI., and greatly enlarged by Queen Elizabeth ; the Town and County Hall, an exceedingly handsome and commodious building, designed by Sir Robert Smirke ; the Market House, built in the reign of Elizabeth, and unequalled in ornamental decoration by any similar structure in the kingdom ; the Post Office, Music Hall, and Subscription News-rooms, all included in one fine pile of buildings ; a Doric column in honour of the late Gen. Lord Hill, 132 feet in height, surmounted by a colossal statue of his lordship ; the Churches, of which there are nine, some of them of great antiquity, and containing many curious and admirable monuments ; numerous Dissenting Chapels ; National, British, and other Schools ; an Infirmary, House of Industry, and other charitable institutions ; the County Gaol ; the Museum of the Natural History Society ; the Railway Station, etc. Of the Town Wall portions only remain, and these are reduced in height and strijjped of their battlements, with the exception of one tower, still existing, which is square and em- battled, and has two storeys with narrow loops. The Castle includes parts of three structures, of different dates ; fragments of a fortress constructed by the Britons at a very early period, a beautiful arched gateway belonging to the Norman edificp. reared by Roger de Montgomery, and a square keep and twi. towers of great extent and solidity built by Edward I. In the adjacent hamlet of Merivale are the venerable remains of the Abbey oi St. Peter and St. Paul, which owed its foiuidation to the Norman baron before named. There are two substantial modern Bridges across the Severn, called, from their respective situations, English Bridge and Welsh Bridge. The Shrewsbury and Birmingham Railway is likewise carried over the river. In the centre of the town is the spot known in old documents as the Ili^h Cross, remarkable as the place where David, brother of Llewelyn, the last of the British princes of Wales, suffered a 208 SHREWSBURY. cruel and ignominious death by order of Edward I., and wLere many noblemen, taken prisoners at the battle of Shrewsbury, were execvited. At the S.W. of the town, near tlie river, is a fine public jiromenade, called both the Quarry and the Dingle, occupying a rich sloping meadow of more than twenty acres, and planted with most magnificent lime and horse-chestnut trees in clumps and avenues. The still retirement and refreshing coolness of this delightful grove, the rich verdure of its mea- dows, the fine sweep of its umbrageous arch, and the majestic flow of the noble river, all combine to render it the frequent resort of the residents, and a principal attraction to the stranger. On the west side of the Quarry are the remains of a spacious amphitheatre, with ascending seats formed on the turfy bank, svhere the friars of an adjacent convent were wont to perform the mysteries, or miracle-plays, so famous in the days of our ancestors, and where, in the reign of Elizabeth, and in the presence of the Queen and her court, dramas were acted in which the pupils of the Free School sustained the principal characters. Shrewsbury formerly derived much of its importance from being the great mart for Welsh flannels, an advantage of which it is now in great measure deprived by changes in the mode of conducting the trade. Many of the inhabitants are em- ployed in a factory for spinning flax, and in smaller factories for thread and linens, in iron-foundries and breweries, and in preparing the brawn and cakes for which the town has long been celebrated ; and its prosperity is sustained by an exten- sive general trade, it being the resort of the numerous nobility and gentry of the county, and a favourite residence for respect- able families. Several royal charters have been conferred upon the borough, particularly by Eichard I. and Charles I. It is locally governed by a mayor, ten aldermen, and thirty councillors, elected by the burgesses ; and twelve local magis- trates are appointed by the Crown. The county assizes and quarter sessions are held here. There are markets on Wed- nesday and Saturday, and cattle-fairs on the second Tuesday and Wednesday in every month. Two members of parliament are elected. Population of the borough, 23,300. LLAXFYLLIN. 209 In proceeding by railway from Oswestry to Macli- ynlleth, we pass Llanymynech station, from whicli there is a brancli to Llanfyllin, [Hotel: Goat.] a small market - town, in a pleasant and fertile valley, on the banks of the river Cain, which is a tributary of the Vyrnwy. It was incorported by Lleweljoi-ap-Gryfiydd, in the time of Edward II., the charter being afterwards con- firmed by Edward de Charlton, Lord of Powis. Many Roman coins have been found here, from which some have inferred that it was a Roman station, but of this there is no sufficient evidence. The Church and Towm-haU are the only public buildings. The peal of bells in the church surpasses aU others in the county. Here are three endowed schools. The town is celebrated for its ale (Welsh, cwrw), which it may be pre- sumed has been in too great favour with the inhabitants, since there is a prevalent saying, " Old ale fills Llanfyllin with young widows." The market is held on Thursday. There are six annual fairs, celebrated for the Welsh ponies (called Merlins), which are brought for sale in great numbers. It is one of the boroughs contributory to Montgomery in electing a member of parliament. The population of the parish is 1880. The following places, in the neighbourhood of LlanfyUin, are accessible from it : — BCdfach, about a mile from the town, is an elegant seat of Lord Mostyn. It is in a vaUey watered by the river Cain, and the grounds are richly planted. Mathraval, about 7 miles S.E. from Llanfyllin, was for- merly the residence of the princes of North Wales. The building, long distinguished as the royal palace, is now a farm-house, occupying a part of the area of a large quadrangular camp. Meifod, one mile north of Mathraval, now a small to■^^^l, was formerly of great ecclesiastical importance, the archdea- conry of Powis-land, and the burial-place of its princes. This appears to be the site of the Roman station Mediolanum, In the vicinity are several mineral springs, some of which possess valuable medicinal properties. Mathraval and Meifod are both situated on the river Vyrnwy, remarkable for the variety as p N 210 LLAN-RHAYADR. well as the abundance of fish, on which account it has acquii'ed the appellation amnis ^nscosus. Llan-rhayadr (yn-mochnant) is a small village at the ter- mination of a confined picturesque valley, called Muchnant, or the vale of the rapid brook. The buildings are irregular and old, yet the aspect of the place is far from unpleasing, and harmonises agreeably with the mountain scenery by which it is surrounded. The parish is extensive, and among its vicars have been the following distinguished men : — Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, who was afterwards bishop of Llandalf and of St. Asaph ; the learned and witty Dr. Robert South ; and Dr. William Worthington, author- of several erudite and valuable works. The population of the parish, which is partly in Denbighshire and partly in Montgomeryshire, amounts to 2519. The village is visited chiefly on account of the celebrated cataract, called Pistyll- Rhayadr (i.e. the Spout of the Cataract), the loftiest waterfall in Wales. Ascending the valley of Mochnant rather more than 4 miles, the little impetuous river Rhayadr will be seen falling doA^Ti a dark and almost perpendicular rock, about 210 feet. For two-thirds of this space the water glides over the flat face of a stem and naked rock, thence it rushes through a natural arch, and, passing between two walls of crag, it is received into a deep basin. The stream then flows along a wooded dell, forming a boundary to the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and passing by the village, falls into the river Tanat. This waterfall, has a greater descent than any other in Wales, and has been pronounced one of the most, if not i/ie most, picturesque in the princi- pality. " What shall I Kken it to ? " asks Mr. Borrow. "I scarcely know, unless to an immense skein of sUk agitated and disturbed by tempestuous blasts, or to the long tail of a grey courser at furious speed. Through the profusion of silvery threads or hairs, or what looked such, I could here and there see the black sides of the crag down which the Rhayadr precipitated itself with some- thing between a boom and a roar." The same author considers that the beauty of the cataract is marred by the natural arch through which the water passes, and which he characterises as " an ugly black bridge, which intercepts the sight, and prevents it taking in the whole fall at once." PISTYLL-RHAYADR, DENBIGHSHIRE. 212 I-LANGYNOa. Tliis unsi^^htly oliject, he continues, " has stood where it now stands since the day of creation, and will probably remain there to the day of judgment. It would be a desecration of nature to remove it by art, but no one could regret if nature in one of her floods were to sweep it away." * When the sun shines on the upper part, it is visible at a great distance. Near tlie fall is a neat cottage, built by the late Sir W. W. Wynn, where refreshments may be obtained. The road to the fall, though steep and rough, is passable for carriages. Llangynog. — In a pleasing sequestered valley, above which rises a stupendous rock of coarse slate, is this small village, taking its name from the British saint Cijuog, com- monly called Mertlnjr Cijnog, i.e. Cynog the martyr, who was put to death in the 5th century. To him the church is dedi- cated. The river Tanat, which flows through the village and waters the beautiful vale extending eastward for many miles, is celebrated for an abundance of trout of the finest flavour. The upper end of the vale is walled in by two precipitous rocks, between which juts out the dark bold promontory of Moel d'A Fawr. The mountains are a part of the Berwyn range, which, for more than 20 miles, forms the boundary between the counties of Merioneth and Montgomery, At Craig-y-Grylni, in this parish, are some productive quarries of excellent blue slate. At a short distance is the celebrated lead-mine, called Graig-y-Mwn, which was discovered in 1692, and for 40 years yielded to the Herbert family an annual revenue of =£20,000, but was abandoned in consequence of a destructive irruption of water. It remained long in a ne- glected state, but has been recently leased to a spirited com- pany, who have succeeded in renewing the works, and are said to realise a profit at the rate of £30,000 per annum. The church of Pennant, about two miles from Llangynog, is famed as the burial-place of St. Monacella, or Mdangell, reputed the patroness of hares. The legend respecting this holy woman is as follows : — Monacella was the daughter of an Irish prince. She displeased her father by refusing to be married to a nobleman whom he had selected for her. Having vowed celibacy, she fled from her country, sought refuge? in North Wales, and, for 15 years, lived at this spot in perfect seclusion. It chanced one day that Brochwel Yscythrog, * Borrow's Wild Wales, vol. iiL WELSHPOOL. 213 prince of Powis, when engaged in hunting, pursued a hare intc the unknown retreat of the saintly virgin, who was engaged in deep devotion. The animal found safety beneath her robe, and boldly faced the dogs, while they, fearing to approach, stood at a distance howling. Brochwel was impressed alike with the beauty and the sanctity of Monacella ; and being made acquainted with her story, he founded an abbey, of which she was to have the rule, and richly endowed it with lands, appointing it to be a sanctuary for the perfect security of all who should repair thither. She died abbess, in a good old age, extensively revered for her saintly virtues. Throughout the district, for a long period, hares were called St. Monacella'a lambs ; until the 17th century no person would put a hare to death within the parish ; and, even at a much later time, it was firmly believed that if any one, seeing a hare pursued by dogs, would cry, " God and St. Monacella be with you ! " it would certainly escape. The legend is perpetuated in the church, in some rude sculptures representing hares running for i^rotection to the saint. From Shrewsbury we are conveyed directly westwards, entering Montgomeryshire at the distance of 14 miles, and reaching Welshpool in 5|- miles farther. WELSHPOOL, [Hotels: Royal Oak ; Lion. Excellent Refreshment-rooms at Station.] Distances. — Whitchurch, 34 miles ; Oswestry, 16; Shrewsbury, 20; Newtown, 14; Montgomery, 8 ; Machynlleth, 41. ordinarily called Pool, from its vicinity to the small lake Llyn-du, now within the enclosure of Powis Park. The addition of "Welsh" distinguishes it from the English town, Poole in Dorsetshire. The streets of Welshpool being wide and regular, and the houses chiefly built of brick, it has mucli of the aspect of an English town, and the manners and lan- guage of the inhabitants are those of England. Flannels are manufactured in the town and neighbourhood, and, on every alternate Monday a market is held for their sale, but in this respect Welshpool is surpassed by Newtown and Llanidloes. Malting and tanning are carried on to a considerable extent, The Count?/ IlaJl is a commodious brick building in the centre 214 WELSHPOOL POWIS CASTLE. of the town, aud here the Montgomeryshire assizes are held. The old Church is a Gothic structure, in no way remarkable. The churchyard is an extremely steep acclivity, the higher part of which overtops the church, and commands a good view of the town and adjacent country. Among the church plate is a gold chalice valued at £170, with a Latin inscription, which states that Thomas Davies, governor of an English settlement on the African coast, presented it as a grateful offering for his preservation in that unhealthy climate. An additional church has lately been erected by subscription, on a site given by the late Earl of Powis. Welshpool is sur- rounded by a number of gentlemen's seats, which add greatly to the beauty of the neighbourhood. The Severn is navigable, for small barges, to within a short distance of the town ; and, an inland trade is carried on by means of that river and the Montgomeryshire canal. The general market is held on Monday. Welshpool is one of the boroughs of the Mont- gomery district. Population about 7000. At a short dis- tance are the ruins of the Cistercian ]\Ionastery and Abbey of Pola (Ystridd Marchell) founded 1170. Powis Castle. — This venerable baronial residence, the seat of the Earl of Powis, is situated one mile from Welshpool, on a commanding eminence, and in the midst of an extensive and beautiful park. By the Welsh it is commonly called Castell Cock, i.e. the Red Castle, from its being constructed of red sandstone. This ancient domain has been the property of the Herberts for many generations, and is intimately associated with some of the most important events in the history of Wales. The Castle, erected and altered at various periods, had become somewhat incongruous, but recent extensive im- provements, under the direction of Sir Robert Smirke, have given to it a character of uniform grandeur, in which it is ex- celled by few mansions in the kingdom. In front are two spacious terraces, rising one above the other, connected by flights of steps, and adorned with vases, statues, etc. The grand entrance is a noble gateway, between two massive round towers, leading into the court, around which the principal apartments are arranged. The great gallery is 11 7 feet long, and 20 feet broad ; and this, as well as all the apartments, is embellished with paintings, sculj^ture, and other works of art. One room contains a collection of rare aud valuable articles. 216 MONTGOMERY. brouglit*from India by tlie distinguished military commandei the first' Barou Clive. The state bed-room is preserved ex- actly as it Avas prepared for Charles I. The views from some of the windows are remarkably fine. The park, which is open to the public, is diversified with gently rising hills, spa- cious verdant lawns, and luxuriant forest trees. A -winding road, ascending to a considerable elevation, affords prospects of vast extent, beauty, and variety. MONTGOMERY, [Hotels: Dragon; Wynnstay Anns.] although nominally the capital of the county, and possessing much historical interest, is a small town, with no manufactures and little trade. It is situated about a mile to the south-east of the station, under the shelter of a lofty hill covered with plantations ; and being well built, clean, and qmet, it is the suitable residence of respectable families who like retirement. Its chief attraction to tourists is its ruined Castle, of which, however, the existing remains afford little indication of the original form and extent. A stronghold on this site was erected by Baldwin, a Nor- man adventurer, whom William the Conqueror appointed Lieutenant of the Marches ; and from him the place was called by the British Trefaldwyn, i.e. Baldwyn's town. Subse- quently it was held by Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, who greatly increased the extent and strength of the fortifications, and gave his o^vn name to both town and castle. On account especially of its position on the border of England and Wales, this fortress was long regarded as of great importance ; the possession of it became a frequent object of contention during the protracted wars between the Saxons and the British ; and few places in the principality are more dis- tinguished in Cambrian history. In 1345 it was in the custody of Roger Mortimer, a Lord Marcher, from whom it passed to the royal house of York, and thence to the Crown. In the 15th century the stewardship was granted to the Her- berts of Cherbury, and it became the principal residence of that family. The famous Lord Herbert, celebrated alike for chivalry, learning, and deism, was born here in 1 5 S 1 . In the NEWTOWN. 217 civil wars of the 1 7th century the castle was garrisoned for the King, but early surrendered to the Parliament, by whose order it was destroyed. On a hill not far from the castle are the remains of a very extensive British fort ; and at about one mile eastward the line of Offa's Dyke may be traced for a considerable distance. The Guildhall occiipies an eminence near to the castle ruins, and close to it is the County Gaol, a modem stone building, well adapted for its purpose. The Church is not remarkable for its architecture. It is an ancient cruciform edifice, with the addition of a modern tower, and it contains a sumptuous monument in memory of the father and mother of the celebrated Lord Herbert. The river Severn, whose course is followed here pretty closely by the railway, is with- in a mUe and a half's distance. The late Dr. Abraham Rees, the learned editor of the Cyclopaedia which bears his name, was born here. The borough was incorporated by Henry III., under a steward, two bailiffs, and twelve burgesses. Prior to the passing of the Eeform Act, it had the privilege of sending a representative to the House of Commons ; but that act ad- mitted five other towns in the county to be united with this in the election of a member of parliament. A weekly market is held on Tuesday, and there are five aimual fairs. Popula- tion of the parish, 1276. NEWTOWN, [Hotels : Boar's Head ; Ked Lion ; Elephant and Castle.] or, as it is called in Welsh, Treneicydd, is a populous, busy, manufacturing town, situated on the river Severn, which is here crossed by a good stone bridge. The streets are confined, and the houses, for the most part constructed of lath and plaster, have a mean appearance. The Town-hall is of brick, and there is a handsome modern Cloth-hall. The parish Church, old and decaying, has a low square tower surmounted by a wooden belfry. A second church has been lately erected. From the rapid extension of its manufacturing establishments it has become one of the most considerable towns in North Wales, and appears, indeed, to be more flourishing and rising into greater im^jortance than any other. A large proportion 218 LLANIDLOES. of the flannel produced in "Wales is made in or near to this place ; the peculiar quality of the water being assigned as one of the causes for the excellence of its woollen fabrics. Machinery is made to a considerable extent, and there are foundries, potteries, tanyards, and malt-houses. The Mont- gomery Canal is close to the town, and connects it with the inland navigation of the central and northern districts. There is some pleasing scenery in the neighbourhood, and, at about a mile and a half on the road to Builth, a pretty cascade. Newtown is a parliamentary borough, contributory, with Llanid- loes, Welshpool, ]\Iachynlleth, and Llanfyllin, to JMontgomery. The population of the parish is 3692, but adding that of the suburbs, which are included in the borough, it amounts to 591G. Moat- Lane Junction. Here the Mid-Wales Eailway diverges to the south, vi& Llanidloes, Rhayader, Builth, and Brecon, affording a very convenient and agreeable access to South Wales. LLANIDLOES [Hotels: Trewithan Anns ; Queen's Head; Lion.] Distances. — Rhayader, 14 miles ; Builth Wells, 26 J ; Brecon, 52 ; Hereford, CC ; Devil's Bridge, 20 ; Aberystwith, 32. is interesting to tourists as a point from which the ascent of Plinlimmon may be made, the distance to the top being about 1 5 miles.* The village, like Newtown, has little to interest in the character of its buildings, or in historical reminiscences. It derives its prosperity from the manufacture of flannels. It is situated 8 miles to the south of Moat Junction, on the Severn, near to the confluence of the Cly wedog, and both rivers are crossed by good stone bridges. The Church, dedicated to St. Idloes, is chiefly remarkable for a roof of delicately-carved oak, and some ornamented columns, said to have been brought from the abbey of Cwm Htr. A new Town-hall has been erected in a central situation, and the buildings generally are undergoing gradual improvement. In the surrounding country * An account of the ascent of Plinlimmon from this and other points will b£ found in connection with Devil's Bridge, which see. LLANIDLOES. 219 are many extensive sheep-walks, and hence the town is an important mart for wool. The flannels made here are chiefly of the finer qualities. On the sides of the neighbouring mountain, Plinlimmon, are some quarries of coarse slate, and lead and copper mines, wliich contribute to the advantage of the place. At about two miles and a half N.E. from the town is Llyn Ebyr, a small lake, abounding with pike, perch, and eels ; and there are in the vicinity other good angling stations. Llanidloes is one of the Montgomery district of parliamentary boroughs, and it has many fairs for cattle, sheep, etc., which are numerously attended. Population of the parish, 3987. The Roman station of Caersws lies one mile west from Moat, on the river Severn. It is now an inconsiderable ham- let, although formerly of great extent and importance. The site of the ancient encampment may be traced, a rampart of about 150 yards square. On the surrounding high grounds are the remains of several military posts, and, in the neigh- bourhood, vestiges of the Roman way, Sam Sws, or Sivsan, are distinctly visible to a considerable extent. Six miles further is Carno, a pleasant village, 11 miles from Ne^vtown, on the Cerniog river. The hilly district in its vicinity has been the scene of some of the most important and most sanguruary battles recorded in the Welsh annals. In the year 946 one was fought which decided the sovereignty of North Wales ; and in 1077 another, between the forces under Gryflydd-ap-Cjman, the rightful heir to the throne of North Wales, joined by those of Rhys-ap-Tudor, prince of South Wales, and the powerful army of Trahaern-ap-Caradoc, who had usurped the dominion. After a most obstinate and bloody conflict, victory was achieved by the former, Trahaern was slain, few only of his followers surviving ; and Gryffydd obtained possession of the crown of his ancestors. About 3 miles to the north-east of Carno, and at a considerable eleva- tion, are three fine lakes, viz. Llyn Tarw, Llyn Dd^, and Llyn Mawr. About 6 miles beyond Carno is Llanbrynmair, an exten- sive parish, containing (1861) 2061 inhabitants, many of whom are employed in lead-mines. About 4 miles south of the village is a fine cataract, called Ffrwd Faiur. Tlie river Twymyn makes a perpendicular descent of 130 feet. Besides this grand fall there are several smaller ones in the neighbour- 220 DINAS MOWDDWT. hood and tlie surroiindiiig district abounds with Druidical remains. The next station reached (4 miles) is Cemmes Road, from which there is a branch line to Dinas Mowddwy and IMallwyd — a half-hour's drive. Cemmes is "a small town or large village, with a church at the entrance and the usual yew-tree in the churchyard." — Borroio. Dinas Moivddwy, although nominally a market-town, and said to have been formerly a place of great iinj^ortance and the abode of an illustrious chieftain, is now a village of humble pretensions — "a dirty squalid place." — Borrow. The neigh- bourhood abounds with mines both of lead and stone, and the village is the head-quarters of the mining population. Its situation, however, is striking, and the two principal inns, the Eed Lion and the Goat, will be found very comfortable.* Thence the road to Dolgelly (about 10 miles) is extremely grand, a continued succession of varied scenery, in some parts rude and majestic, in others picturesque and lovely. The road to Bala is of similar character. It passes the village of Llan- y-Mowddwy ; along a wild romantic tract which lies beneath the * In the neighbourhood of Dinas Mowddwy there existed, about the middle of the 16th century, a numerous band of robbers, known by the designation Gwylliaid Cochion Mawddwy i.e. the red-haired banditti of Mowddwy. They plundered and laid waste the surrounding country in open day ; drove away herds of cattle to their haunts in the woods and mountains ; extorted contri- butions from the proprietors of estates ; and, bidding defiance to the civil power, spread such terror throughout the district, that to avoid it travellers took circuitous roads and tenants abandoned their farms. Their enormities at length rendered necessary the adoption of vigorous measures for their appre- hension ; and for this purpose Queen Mary gave a commission to John WjTin of Gwydir, and Lewis Owen, Vice-Chamberlain of Wales, and one of the barons of the Exchequer. On Christmas Eve, ] 554, a skilful and determined attack was made upon the retreats of the banditti, and more than eighty were seized and condemned to be hung. Among these was a young man, whose mother earnestly besought the Baron to spare his life. Her entreaties being refused, the miser- able and enraged woman, baring her bosom, exclaimed, " These yellow breasts have given suck to those who shall wash their hands in your red blood." An opportunity was quickly sought for carrying this dreadful threatening into execution ; and, accordingly, when the Baron was returning from the assizes he was waylaid and murdered in the woods of Dugoed Mawr, at a place still called, from the event, Llydiart-y-Barwn, i.e. the Baron's gate. It is added that the brothers of the young convict, in order literally to fulfil the dreadful threatening of their mother, plunged a sword into the heart of the murdered judge, and washed their hands in the warm stream which gushed forth. After the perpetration of this cruel deed a military force was employed against these formidable and desperate men, and the entire band was speedily exterminated. MALLWYD. 221 lofty mountains Aran Mowddwy (height 2970 feet) and Aran Benllyn ; through the elevated and terrific pass name Bwlch- y-Grocs, or pass of the cross ; and thence descending into the narrow valley of the Twrch, which terminates at the lake of Bala. MALLWYD. [Hotel: Peniarth Arms.] ]\Iallwyd, distant less than 2 miles from Dinas, is selected for fuller notice because it forms a convenient resting- place in a most agreeable situation, and has the advantage of an excellent hotel (the Peniarth Arms), from which the objects of interest are easily accessible. The village is situated in a romantic hollow, lying between the mountains Camlan, Aran, and Moel Dyfi, at the junction of three delightful valleys, and near to the confluence of several tributaries to the river Dyti (or Dovey). The surrounding scenery possesses peculiar features of beauty, and the mountain prospects are extensive and sublime. Mallwyd is an admirable fishing station, and during some months in the year is frequented by numerous lovers of the sport. It is likewise, and most justly, a favourite resort of artists, who, by following the courses of the streams, are introduced to scenes of great interest, and amidst their rocky channels and wooded banks are gratified by the fre- quent occurrence of rapids and small cascades, whose effect is gi-eatly aided by the striking beauty of their accessories. The Church is small and humble, but rendered interesting by the unusual form and position of the altar, resembling those of communion tables in ancient Presbyterian places of worship, a slate slab, in the middle of the area before the pulpit, so placed by a Puritan incumbent, named Davies,* in defiance of the mandates and menaces of Archbishop Laud. "Within and above the porch are susjDended some enormous bones found in the neighbourhood, which do not appear to have been ade- quately described or identified. In the churchyard are some venerable yew-trees, one of which is of extraordinary size and luxuriance. Rising from the earth a single stem, it divides, at the height of 3 or 4 feet, into a number of branches, * " Doctor John Davies, author of the great Welsh and Latin Dictionarj, an Imperishable work." — Borrow. 222 MACHYNLLETH. each large enough to form a noble tree. The girth of the trunk is 22 feet 6 inches, and the separate branches, at a foot from the division, measure from 10 feet 9 inches to 5 feet 9 inches. These spread in every direction about 40 feet, form- ing a circle of about 80 feet in diameter, and 240 feet in cir- cumference, wliile some more perpendicular reach a height of 40 feet. The far-famed yew at Aldworth, in Berkshire, though somewhat larger in the girth, is not comparable to this in health and beauty. There are chapels for Independents, Wesleyans, and Calvinistic Methodists. Population of the parish 1049. Returning to the main line, a run of about 5 miles from Cemmes Road brings us to MACHYNLLETH (pronoimced Mahuntleth). [Hotels: Wynnstay Anns ; Unicorn.] Distances. — Oswestry, 57 m.; Welshpool, 41; Aberystwith, 18; Dolgelly, 16. This borough and market-town is placed in a fine valley, near the confluence of the rivers Dulas and Dyfi (or Dovey) It is much more regularly built than most Welsh towns, the streets being wide and straight, and the houses, for the most part, of very respectable appearance. It has, notwithstanding, rather a dull and gloomy aspect, and exhibits few indications of much prosperity. It is the centre of the woollen manu- facture in the western part of the county, but in this respect it has not kept pace with the towns on the eastern side. It has a good share of tanning business. The Toivn-hall, also used as a Market-house, was built in 1783 by Sir W. W. Wynn, grandfather of the present baronet of Wynnstay, in whom the manor is vested. The Church is a modern build- ing, neat and commodious, without architectural distinction. There are several Dissenting Chapels, a Free Grammar School, a National School, and other public institutions. An old building, now used for very humble purposes, is shown as the Senate-house, in which Owen Glyndwr, in the year 1402, met the nobles and commoners of Wales whom he had convoked, and succeeded in causing himself to be acknowledged and crowned as Prince of Wales. At this meeting, Owen narrowly MACHYNLLETH. 223 escajied being assassinated by the treacherous David Gam, a chieftain from Brecknockshire. Gam's design was opportimely detected, and he was for some time imprisoned here ; but he contrived to liberate himself, and was well received at the English court. He afterwards attended Henry V. in his wars, and displayed much valour at the battle of Agincourt. The name of this town appears to be a corruption of Man- cyn-llaith, which signifies the fldce at the upper end of the flat, referring, we may suppose, to its position in relation to the estuary of the Dovey. It is believed to have been the Maglona of the Eomans, their principal station in Montgomeryshire, where a garrison was placed " to keep in awe the mountain- eers." Some indications of a fortified post may be observed on a rocky hill at the N.E. boundary of the town, and other Roman remains are found at Pennal, about four miles distant. Here, at a place called Cefn Caer, or " the ridge of the city," Roman coins have frequently been found, and there were formerly visible the remains of a circular fort of considerable extent, the main fort being on the highest part of the hill. The outer walls were built of a rough durable stone dug at Tal-y-garreg, about 7 miles distant. A causeway, 12 yards wide, formed of large stones and pebbles, extended in a direct line from the fort through the marshy meadows for 200 yard? to the water-side, and foundations of houses have been dis- covered even beyond the river. Bricks, of which the fort is supposed to have been built, have been frequently found on the spot, and specimens are said to be still mixed up with the stones in the walls of Pennal church. The mansion and grounds of Greenfields, at the S. extremity of the town, together with the extensive slate-quarries in the neighbourhood, are the property of Earl Vane (second son of the late Marquis of Londonderry), who acquired this estate by his marriage with the only daughter and heiress of the late Sir John Edwards, Bart. Machynlleth has a good market on Wednesday. The population of the town and liberties is 1673 ; of the parish, 2460. The road to Aberdovey and Towyn is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful. It passes along the N. bank of the Dovey, and affords delightful views of Cardiganshii-e and the bay. At the distance of 6 miles S. from the town, quite away from every highroad, is a lofty cataract, near a pool called Llyn Pen Rhayadr, i.e. the pool at the head of the cataract, and 224 MACHYNLLETH PLINLIMMON. the name usually given to tlie fall is Fistijll-y-IJ>/n, oi the spout from the lake. Plinlimmon may be ascended from Machynlleth, the summit being distant about 12 miles, but the ascent is better made from Devil's Bridge or Aberystwith (which see). The road to Plinlimmon is that from Machynlleth to Llanidloes, over the mountains, the distance between these places being 21 miles — viz. to Dropping-well 9 miles, thence to Llanidloes 12 miles. At the Dropping-well we reach the watershed, and are within a mile of Glaslyn, the source of the river Diflas (or Dulas), which joins the Dyfi at Machynlleth. About a mile southwards of Glaslyn there is another small lake named Bugeilyn. Here we are within a mile and a half of Blaen Hafren, or the source of the Severn, and close to the summit of the mighty mountain, as described in a subsequent page in connection with the ascent from Devil's Bridge. The following is the route of the train from Machynlleth to Aberystwith : — Miles, Miles Glandovey ■ 4} Llanfihangel . Hi Ynys-Las . 10 Bow-street 16 Borth l-2i Aberystwith . ■20i INDEX. Aber, 49, 111 Aberconway, 42 Aberdaron, 91 Aberdovey, 199 Aberffraw, 76 Abergele, 35 Aberglaslyn Pass, 130 Abergwynant, iSi* Abergynolwyn Station, 188 Abermavv (Barmouth), 189 Acton Hall, 161 Ale of Llanfyllin, 209 Aiubrose, St., Bust ^y, 151 Amlwch, 74 Anglesey, County of, 79 Anglesey, Marquis of, coliann and seat, Antiquities, 3 Aqueducts at Chirk, 166 Aran Mountains, 174, 221 Ardudwy Stones, 192 ; graves, 197 Bagillt, 26 Bailey Hill, Mold, 14 Bala, 173 Baldtvyft, 200 Banditti of Mowddy, 220 Bangor, 51 Bangor to Holyhead, 73 Bangor to Slate-quarries, 54 Bangor-ys-Coed, 162 Bardsey Isle, 92 Barmouth. 189 Baron Hill, 70 BarroTV, Dr. Isaac, 141 Basingwerk Abbey, 30 Beaumaris, 68 Beddgelert, 127 Bethesda, 57 Bettws Garmon, 123 Bettws-y-Coed, 115 Beveridge, Dr. lF>n., 141 Bodelwyddan, 142 Bodfach, 209 Bodorgan, 76 Bodryddan, 138 Boydell, Alderman, birth-place, 24 Bran Fendigaid, 190 Britannia Tubular Bridge, 60 Britons, Ancient, 2 Bronbanog Hills, 136 Bronwylfa, 142 Brymbo Hall, 161 Brynbella, 148 Brynkinalt, 165 Buckley Mountain, 25 Bulkeley, Sir R. B. IV. , Bart. , seats, 70 Burke's Beauties 0/ Nature, 135 Butler, Lady, 169 Bwlch-y-ddeufaen, iii Bwlch-y-Groes, 174, 221 Cader Idris, 181* Cad/an of Armorica, 198 Cadivallon, 140 Caergwrle, 12 Caerhun, iii Caersws, 219 Caerwys, 31 Calamine (ore of zinc), Flintshire, 23 Cambria, 2 Cambrian Railway, 201 Canals, 203 Capel Curig, 117 ; route to Snowdon from, 99 Caractacus, retreat of, 172 Carnarvonshire, 81 Carnarvon, 83 Carnarvon to Beddgelert, by Llyn Cwellin, 122 Carnarvon to Llanberis and Beddgelert, 93 Carnarvon to Pwllheli, 87 Carnedd, near Newmarket, 139 Camo, 219 Castell Coch, 213 Castell Dinas Bran, 167 Castell Gronw, 176 Castell Prysor, 197 Castell Tomen-y-mur, 197 Castel-y-Gaer, 187 Cave Hill, 36 Cefn, Caves and Well, 143 Cefn-yr-Ogo, 36 Ceiriog Vale, 166 Cemmes Road, 220 Cerrig-y-Druidion, 172 Charles, Rev. Thomas, of Bala, 173 (N) 226 INDEX. Chester, 5 Chester, Earl of , title, 6 (Chester to Dolgelly. i54 Chester to Holyhead, 17 Chester to IMold, 12 Chirk, 165 Cilcain, 16 Glee Hills, 203 Clwyd, Vale of, 134 Clynnog-Fawr, 89 Coalbrookdale, ^04 Coal-field, Flintshire, 23 Colwyn, 38 Conovium. Roman Station, iii Conway, 43 C'inway River and Valley, log Copper-mines (Parys), 75 ; Llanberis, 105 Cop-yr-Leni, Carnedd, 140 Cojrwen, 170 Corvven to Bettws, 172 Cox, David, A.R.A., 116 Craig-Aderyn, 109 Craig Cwm Bychan, 124 Craiglwyd Quarry Co., 47 Craig-y-Dinas, 67 Craig-y-Grybni, 212 Craig-y-Mwn Lead I\Iine, 212 Creuddyn Hundred, 38 Criccieth, 91 Cromlechs at Plas Newydd, 68 Cromvell's S/oir (Kitimel), 37 Cross Foxes iDolgelly), 181 Cwm Bychan, 192 Cwm Cascade, 139 Cymmer Abbey, 186 Cynog, Saint, the martyr, 212 Danes, 2 Davies, Dr. John, 221 Davies, R. (Ajitiquary), 14, 143 Demetia (.South Wales), 2 Demon's Oak, 181* Denbighshire, 133 Denbigh, 144 Denbigh, Ruthin, and Corwen Railway, Diganwy Castle, 38 Dinas Bran Castle, 168 Dinas Dinlle, 8g Dinas Gonwy, 38 Dinas Mowddwy, 220 Dinorlen, Lord, 37, 75 Dolbadarn Castle, 95 Dolgelly, 178 Dolgelly to Barmouth, 188 Dolwvddelan, 114, 116 Dol-y-Melynllyn, 1S4 Downing i-fall, 31 Druidical Remains, 6S, 90, 172, 18 192 Druid's Lodge, 68 Drws Ardudwy, 192 Drwsynant, 178 Duiignunon Family, 166 Dwygyfylchi, 46 Dykes, UfiVs and Watt's, 30, 31 Dyserth, 139 EAtON Hall, 10 Edward II., birth-place, 85 Eisteddfodau, 32, 138, 146 Eliseg's Pillar, 169 Ellesmere Canal, 204 Erddig Hall, 161 Ewloe Castle, 25 Pestiniog, 194 Fitzinaiirice, Hon. T., 149 Flannel, Welsh, 217 Flintshire, 22 Flint, 25 Gaerwen Station, 73 Germanns, field of, 15 Gimlet Rock, 91 Glan-y-Llyn, 174 Giendoiver, Oiuen, 170, 179 Gloddaeth, 39 Glynllif.m Park, 89 Great Orine's Head, 40 Gresford, 157 Grosvenor Lodge (Eaton Hall), 11 Gwaenynog, 147 Gwernhaeled Park, 162 Gwesper Quarries, 33 Gwrych Castle, 36 Gwydir Chapel, 113; House, 114 Gwytherin, 113 Hares, Monacella, patron saint of, 21a Harlech, 190 Hawarden, 23 Heinans, Mrs., 36, 39, 136, 141 Hengwrt, 186 Herbert Family, 212, 214 Herbert, Lord, birthplace, 216 Hillbre Island, 33 Hirlas Drinking-horn, 55 Holyhead, 77 Holywell, 27 Hope Station anB Village, 12 Horsley, Dr. Samuel, 141 Itineraries, 18, 88, 93, 107, 122, 154 Jeffries, Jjidge, birthplace, 161 Johnson, Dr., monument, 147 Jones, Inigo, 113 Jubilee Column, 16 Kentigem, Bishop of Glasgow, 140 Kinmel Hall, 37 Lake Bala, 174 Conway, 115 Coron, 77 227 Lake Crafnant, 112 Creigenen, 186 Cwellyn, 124 Ddu, 2ig Dulin, 49 Dywarchen, 124 Ebyr, 219 Eigiau, III Gader, 125, iS"*- Gafr, 1S2* Geirionj'dd, 112 Gweman, 182* Gwynant, 106 Idwal, 120 Mawr, 219 MymbjT, 117 Ogwen, 119 Padam, 95 Pen Rhayadr, 223 Peris, 95 Tal-y-Uyn, 187 Tanv, 219 Trigraianen, 1S7 Lead Mines, Craig-y-^I\vn, 212 Flintshire, 23 Talargoch, 33, 139 Llanaber Church, 189 Llanaelhaiam, 90 Llanasa, 33 Llanberis, 95 ; "Village, 1C5 ; Pass, 103 Llanbrj-nmair, 219 Llandegai, 54 Llandrillo Station, 172 Llandudno, 39 Llandudno to Bettws-y-Coed, 107 Llandulas, 37 Llanegrjn, 186 Llanelian, 37 Llanelltyd, 186 Llanfaes, 71 Llanfairfechan, 49 Llanfyllin, 209 Llangefni, 73 Llangelynin Church, 49 Llangollen, 166 Llangynog, 212 Llanidloes, 218 Llannerch, 143 Llanrhayadr, 149 Llanrhayadr-yn-Mochnant, 2io Llanrhos, 39 Llanrhydd, 151 Llanrwst, 112 Llewelyn tlte Great, 3, 115, 128 Llewenny Hall, 148 Lleyn Promontory, 90 Lloyd Family, 139 Lloyd's Pulpit, 19s Llwyngwril, 187 Llyn. See Lakes Llys Bradwen, 186 Long Station, 13 Lytlelton's encomium on Fesiiniog, 194 MachynUetli, 222 Madocks, W. A., Esq., 131 Maelor Hundred, 162 Maen Rhos Rhyfel, 74 MaentWTOg, 19J ]\Iaes-y-Gaer, 49 jMaes-y-Garmon, 15 Malindina Abbey, 31 MaUwyd, 221 Ma?n Cyvirzi, 149 Marble, Anglesey, 71 Mathraval, 209 Meifod, 209 Menai Suspension and Tubulai Bridges, 68 Mercia, 205 Merionethshire, 152 INIerlins (ponies', 152, 209 Military Antiquities, 3 Minffordd, 1S7 Moat Lane Junction, 218 Mochnant Valley, 210 Moel. See Moimtains Mold, 13 IMona, the Reman, 79 Momicella, St., 212 Montgomeryshire, 200 Montgomery, 216 lilontgomery, Robert, lines, 141 3Iorgan, Bishop, translator of Welsh Bible, 141, 210 Mostyn, 32 Mountains — Aran, 174, 221 Berwj'n, 170, 171 Cader Idris, 181* Camedd Da/ydd, 119 Carnedd Llewelyn, 119 Eifl, 89 Glvders, 119 Holyhead, 78 Moel Arthur, 16 Cynwch, 1S2 du Fawr, 212 Fammau, 16 Hebog, 129 Llys, 49 Siabod, 118 Snowdon, 98 Wrekin, 203 Mount Pleasant, 47 Mowddwy, 220 Mwd, Tiie, 50 Myddclton Family, 165, 147 Mynydd Mawr, 124 Nant Farm, 71 Frangon, 120 Glyn, 148 Gwrthe>'m, 90 Gwynant, 106 Mill, 123 Nantlle, 126 Nevin, gi Newborough, 76 228 INDEX. Newmarket, 139 Newtown, 217 Offa's Dyke, 2, 31, 164, 205, 217 Ogwen Biink, 58 Orme's Head, 40 Oswestry, 202 " Our Ladies Well," 144 Overton, 162 Owen Glyndwr, 170, 179 Parys Mountain, 75 Pass of Aberglaslyn, 130 Bwlch-y-ddeufaen, in Bwlch-y-Groes, 174, 221 Llanberis, 105 Penmaen-mawr, 48 Pengwern, 139 Pengwerwyn, 172 Penmaen-Mawr, 46 ; Pass, 48 Peumina, 47 Penmen, 71 Penmorfa, 132 Pennant Church, 212 Penrhyn Castle, 55; slate-quarries, 57 Pensarn, 35 Pentraeth, 71 Pentre Foelas, 172 Pen-y-bont Inn, 187 Pen-y-Gaer, 172 Pen-y-Gwryd Inn, 106 Piozzi, Mrs., resilience, 148 Pistyll. See Waterfalls Pitt's Head, 126 Plas Newydd (Anglesey), 67 Newydd (Llangollen), 170 Pengwern, 170 Penmynydd, 74 Power, 162 Plinlimmon, 224. Pola Abbey, 214 Point of Air Lighthouse, 33 Ponies, Welsh, 152, 209 Ponsonby, late Miss, 169 Pont Aberglaslyn, 130 Pont Dolganwy, ni Pont Porthlwyd, in Pont-y-Glyn, 172 Pont-y-pair, 115, 116 Population of Wales, i Portmadoo, 131 Portmadoc to Pwllheli, 132 Povesia, 2 Powis Castle, 214 Powysland, 2 Precipice Walk, 182 Prestatyn, 33 Priestholm, 72 Princes of Wales, 3 Prys, Archdeacon, 193 Puffin Island, 72 Pwllheli, 90 Quarries. See Slate-quarries Quarry, Shrewsbury, 208 Rees, Dr. Abraham, 217 Rhayadr. See Waterfalls Rhuddlan, 137 Rhyl, 34 Rhyllon, 142 Richard II., where betrayed, 3) River Aran, 178 Cain, 184, 209 Camlan, 184 Ceiriog, 165 Clwyd, 136 Colwyn, 130 Conway, 109 Dee, 176 Dovey, 223 Dwyryd, 192 Dysynni, 187, 199 Ehvy, 136 Geirw, 172 Glaslyn, 128 Lledr, 116 Llugwy, IIS, "5 IMawddach, 185 Rhayadr, 210 Severn, 203 Tanant, 212 Twymyn, 219 Vyrnwy, 209 Wnion, 178 " Rock of Weeping," 47 Roderic, King, 2 Rofts, The, 158 Roman Antiquities at Chester, 6 Roads, 197, 205, 219 Station, Caersws, 219 Segontium, 87 Uriconium, 205 Romans, 2 Rosset, 157 R oubilliac' s inonutiients, 160 Ruabon, 163 Riig, 171 Buthin, 150 St. Albright's Fountain, 114 Asaph, 140 Asaph's Well, Dyserth, 139 Beuno's Chapel, 89 Cadfan's Church and Well, 198 George, 37 Mungo (o/GlasgcrM), 140 Trillo's Chapel, 39 Winefred's Well, 28 Saltney, 157 Salusbury Family, 148 Samiuell, Dr., birthplace, 148 Sam Helen, 197 Sws, 219 Sa.xons, 2 Segontium, Roman Station, 87 Seven Wonders of Wales, 28, note Severn, River, 202 Shee, Sir M. A., portrait by, 189 Shipley, Dean, 138, 141 229 Shrewsbury, 206 Shropshire, 202 Skinner, Captain, juonnment, 78 Slate-Quarries, Craig-y-Grybiii,2i2 Festiniog, 195 Llanberis, 97 Machynlleth, 223 Nantlle, 126 Penrhyn, 57 Snowdon, 98 Snowdon Guide Inn, 124 South, Dr. Robert, 210 Stack Lighthouse, 78 Suspension Bridges, 45, 58 Talargoch Lead Mines, 139 Taliesin, Bard, 112 Tan-y-Ewleh, 192 Torrent Walk, Dolgelly, 181 Tower, 15 Towyn, 198 Trawsfynydd, 197 Trefriw, iii Tremadoo, l3l Tre'r-Caeri, 90 Tudor, Catherine, of Beren, 148 Tudor, Oiven, 74 Twt-hill, 84 Tyn-y-groes, 1S5 Uriconium, 205 Vale of Clwyd Railway, 134 Valle Crucis Abbey, i68 Vaugha7is, 171, 179 Venedotia (N. Wales), 2 Viaducts at Chirk, 166 Vortigern's Valley, 90 IVarburton, Eliot, 159 Warren, Samuel, birthplace, 159 Waterfalls — Benglog, 120 Cain, 184 Ceunant Mawr, 97 Cynfael, 195 Dibbin Mawr, 89 Dolgarrog, iii Dolgelly, 184 Ffrvvd Fawr, 219 Mawddach, 184 Ogwen, 120 Pistyll-Rhayadr, 210 Pistyll-y-Llyn, 223 Raven, 193 RhayadrDu(DolgeIly),i84 Rhayadr Dil (Maentwrog), Rhayadr INIawr (Aber) 49 Rhayadr Mawr, iii Bhayadr-y-Parc-mawr, 114 Rhayadr-y-Wennol, 116 Waterloo Bridge, 116 Waterloo Tower, 164 Watling Street, 205 Watt's Dyke, 30, 164 Welsh flannel, 217; paving-stones, 47; ponies, 152, 209 ■WelBhpool, 213 Wepre Hall, 25 Williams, Sir William, 142 Wilson, R., lajidscape-painter, 14 Wrexliam, 159 Wroxeter, 205 Wynn Family, 163 Wynne Families, 113, 143, 187 Wynnstay, 163 Yew Trees at Gresford, 15S Mallwyd, 221 Ynys-y-maengwyn, 199 printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh. «i i G I BLACK'S j eoiBE BOOM my j 18 7 5. A (Hotels arranged Alphabetically according to Locality.) y^j;;jHj>^ rf^r^r^r^-^'^^^''^^ {Eoyal Route via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.) THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS— lONA, CHEVALIEK, GONDOLIER, STAFEA, MOUNTAINEER, PIONEER, GLENGARRY, LINNET, CLANSMAN, CLYDESDALE, CYGNET, PLOVER, GLENCOE, AND INVERARAY CASTLE, Sail during the season for Oban, Fort-William, Inverness, Staffa, lona, Glencoe, Tobermory, Portree, Gairloch, Ullapool, Lochinver and Storno- way ; affording Tourists an opportunity of Visiting the Maguificen'^ Scenery of Glencoe, the Coolin Hills, Loch Coruisk, Loch Maree, and the famed islands of Staffa and lona. *»* These vessels afford in their passage a view of the beautiful scenery of the Clyde, with all its Watering-Places — the Island and Kyles of Bute — Island of Arran — Moun- tains of Cowal, Knapdale, and Kintyre — Lochfyne— Crinan — with the Islands of Jura, Scarba, Mull, and many otheVs of the Western Sea — The Whirlpool of Corryvreckan — the Mountains of Lorn, of Morven, of Appin, of Kiugairloch, and Ben Nevis — Inver- lochy — The Lands of Lochiel, the scene of the wanderings of Prince Charles, and near to where the clans raised his Standard in the '45 — Lochaber — the Caledonian Canal — Loch Lochy — Loch Oich — Loch Ness, witl* the Glens and Mountains on either side, and the celebrated FALLS OF FOYERS. Books descriptive of tlie route may be had on board the Steamers. Time- Bills, with Maps, sent post free on application to the Proprietors, David HuTCHESON and Co., 119 Hope Street, Glasgow. Glasgow, 1875. ABERDEEN. w||'-^ fS u ^3 P-^ ti a b-a CD iiiii ^ P- ^ c+- '-^ go t^P- g.1 ffS ^2-^ 3 5 5 ;jr3 - H :^ ^ C OSjgP cc 3. 1:". _ rt ^^ ° P 2. 3 5" 3= §■ P^& o 5' ri l§2g--'"3g^f.'dg^ fl) o g ?; P CJ-ct ^^-« 1=5-2 Sin O <~ <:+ Is Is-: ,_3 HI- J^ o -. „ ^ P-a HM o != 2 CD 5^S" ^-^ <1T 03 A.S5;: : |3 t^9 w cl- cl- cc 2- — -! a tr'p o (I ^ '^M s 2 iz!^ -" :? s-S'SK > p- s "■ ca P (E c» o O o g_ r S o S" ^ o CD oS Pi ABERDEEN-IMPERIAL HOTEL (Nearest First-Clasa Hotel to Bailway Station). A Cascade with Rockery, whose delicious Pountains play on a profusion of Luxuriant Ferns, beautifies and refreshes the Hall. Spacious Billiard Room for Residents in the Hotel, In which a magnificent Grotto, with waterfalls, cools and 2'urifics the air. ABERDEEN ABERFOYLB. 3 ABEKDEEN. THE PALACE HOTEL, UNION STREET AND BRIDGE STREET, ABERDEEN. THIS Hotel, which has been recently erected and furnished with all modern improvements, is one of the finest in the City. It is situated in the principal street, with convenient access to the Railway Station and chief Business localities. Public and Private Drawing-liooms are furnished with special reference to the comfort of Lady and Gentlemen Visitors. Handsome Commercial Room, Stock Rooms, Billiard Room, Bed-Room Accommodation for upwards of one hundred ; Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths. A. M. MACKIE, late of the " Northern Hotel,^^ Lessee. ROYAL .^^^^ HOTEL. ABERDEEN, Patronised hy her Majesty tlie Queen and the Royal Family. T^HE oldest established and most Central Hotel in the City. Lately re- -^ modelled and re-furnisbed. Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths in each landing. An Omnibus meets all Trains and Steamers. The Royal is the only Hotel in Aberdeen having the advantage of Stabling and Posting attached. Chabges strictly Moderate. All communications to be addressed to JOHN RHIND. ABERFOYLE. BAILIE NICOL JARVIE HOTEL. JAMES BLAIR begs to iutiraate that the above Hotel, of which he has taken a lease, is now open after having undergone extensive and thorough repairs. The Coffee- Room, Parlours, and Bed-Rooms are large and commodious, and have been completely and comfortably refurnished. There is excellent Trout Fishing to be got on Loch Ard and Loch Chon ; and first- class Boats, with experienced Boatmen, are always in attendance. The Posting Department is complete ; and Visitors to the Hotel should write a day previously for Conveyances to be waiting at Bucklyvie Station, on the Forth and Clyde Railway. Charges moderate. Letters to be addressed via Stirling. 4 ALLOA AMBLESIDE BANGOR. ALLOA ROYAL OAK HOTEL. WILLIAM EEID, J N returning thanks to Tiis minierous friends, Commercial Gentlemen, and the Public generally, for the liberal patronage whioh he has experienced since opening the above establishment (so long successfully conducted by Mr. W. Thomas), embraces the jiresent opportunity of announcing that he has made a considerable addition to the Bed-Room Accommodation of the Royal Oak, and made such extensive improvements as greatly to add to the conifort and convenience of visitors to the Hotel. FIRST CLASS BILLIARD-ROOM, WITH LAVATORY ATTACHED. HOT, COLD, AND 8H0WER BATHS. Excellent Coacli-House, with Stalling accommodation complete. Posting in all its Branches. AMBLESIDE, WINDEEMERE. THE QUEEN'S HOTEL IS THE ONLY HOTEL IN AMBLESIDE THAT COMMANDS A VIEW OF WINDERMERE LAKE. This extensive and excellent Establishment is rebuilt and fitted up with all the Modern Improvements. THE DRAWING-, DINING-, AND BED ROOMS are large and airy, and command views of the surrounding country which cannot be equalled. THE COFFEE ROOM is the largest and handsomest in Ambleside, and commands views of Windermere Lake, the Valley of Ambleside, with its beautiful Church ; the Knool, the residence of Miss Harriet Martineau ; Fox How, the residence of the late Dr. Arnold ; Rydal Mount, the residence of the late Poet Wordsworth ; Gilbertscar, Loughrigg Fell, Knabb Scar, Rydal Head, Fairfield, Scandale Fell, etc. Coaches leave the Hotel daily for all parts of the Lake District. An Omnibus meets all Steamers on Lake Windermere. HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS. JOHN BROWN, Proprietor. BANGOR. BRITISH HOTEL, "VTEAR the station. Large and handsome Coffee Room, Private Sitting Rooms Billiard Rooms with two new tables, Posting and Livery Stables. Bus conveys Visitors from the station to the Hotel free of charge. T. H. PHILLIPS, Proprietor. BAXAVIE BELFAST. BANAVIE. THE LOCHIEL AEMS HOTEL, FRONTING BEN NEVIS. Ci UIDES and Ponies are supplied here to Parties wishing to ascend the Mountain. There are beautiful "Walks and Drives in the Neighbourhood. Also Salmon and Trout Fishing in the Biver Lochy. TAERIF :— Bed, 3s. 6d. Attendance, Is. 6d. Breakfast, 2s, and 3s. Luncheon, Is. and 2s. 6d. Dinners, 3s. 6d. and 5s. Teas, 2s. and 3s. J. MACGEEGOE, Froprietor and Manager. BELFAST. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL. FIEST CLASS. BEST SITUATION. Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers. W. J. JUEY, Broprietor. BELFAST. ROBINSON'S COMMERCIAL TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 82DONEGALL STREET. ESTABLISHED 1S51. A FIRST-CLASS Family and Commercial Hotel. Conducted on "^ strictly Abstinence Principles. Comfort, Quiet, and moderate Charges. Private Sitting Rooms and Show Rooms. 6 BERWICK BIDEFORD BLAIR-ATHOLE. KI NG'S ARMS HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE, BERWICK-ON-TWEED. Suites of Rooms for Families. Coffee, Commercial, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. The Hotel Omnibus meets the Trains. JOHN CARR, Proprietor. BIDEFORD, DEVONSHIRE. ri ^ANTON'S Family and Commercial Hotel, Bideford, has been J- long and favourably known as being most comfortable and inexpensive. It is situated on the banks of the river Torridge, and commands an extensive view of the surrounding scenery. A good Coffee and Billiard Room. An Omnibus from the Hotel meets every train. Private Omnibuses and Carriages can be had to meet any train on the shortest notice. BLAIR-ATHOLE. ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL. {Adjoining the Railivay Station.) npmS Hotel, to meet the demands of its coiitiinially increasing business, has -*- this year received furtlier extensive additions, comprising a large Drawing- Roora, Parlours, Smoking-Room, and Bedrooms, while various other internal improvements have been carried out which will render the establishment thoroughly complete aud well-appointed in every department. Blair- Athole is the most central point from ■\\'hich to make Excursions to Killiecraukie, Loch Tummel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar ; the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel, and Fender ; the grounds of Blair Castle, &c. ; and is the most convenient resting-place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. Orders by Post or Telegraph for Apartments or Carriages carefully attended to. D. & P. T. MACDONALD, Proprietors. 1875. BLAIR-ATHOLE — BLAIRGOWRIE. 7 BRIDGE OF TILT HOTEL, BLAIE-ATHOLE. Two Minutes' Drive from Railicay Station. ASTEWAET, for many years Head- Waiter in the Breadalbane • Arms Hotel, Aberfeldy, begs to intimate to his Patrons, Friends, and the Public, that he has entered upon a lease of this old-established and comfortable Hotel, which has been thoroughly renovated and furnished anew. The Hotel, being built in a dry and healthy situation, surrounded with waving woods, romantic dells, and places of historic renown, forms a favourite resort for the botanist, and antiquarian. Within convenient distances are the Falls of Fender, Bruar, and Tummel, the Pass of Killiecrankie, Glen Tilt, Blair Castle (seat of the Duke of Athole), Struan, Eannoch, etc. etc., while the walks in the immediate neighbourhood cannot be surpassed for variety, quietness, and beauty. The Hotel Bus attends the arrival and departure of all Trains. Letters and Telegrams for Apartments, Conveyances, etc., punctualli/ June 1S75. attended to. ' BLAIRGOWRIE. a U E E N ' S ^^M^ HOTEL Established "^^iahss^^^i^fxiilj^ Haifa Century. THE above long-established and first-class Hotf.l has recently been much enlarged and improved, so that Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen will find in it every comfort and attention. Blairgowrie is on the shortest and most direct route to Braemar and Balmoral, the drive to which is very grand, passing Craighall (Col. Clerk Rattray), one of the most picturesquely-situated mansions in Scotland. Post Horses and Carriages of every descripton, with careful Dri\'ers. Charges Strictly Moderate. Coaches to Braemar early in July. Passengers booked at the Hotel. An Omnihvs v:aits all Trains. D. M'DOXALD, Proprietor. Orders by Post or Telegram for Rooms, Cairrages, or Coach seats, carefully attended to. BLAIRGOWRIE. ROYAL J^^^ HOTEL FAMILIES, Touri.sts, and Commercial Gentlemen will find every endeavour being made to render this Hotel equal to its long-known reputation. Families Boarded Weekly by Agreement. Spacious Billiard Room with a Cox & Teaman Champion Table. Al Stvd of Horses and Vehicles. Coach to Braemar every Tuesday, Thursday, & Saturday ; July, August, & September. Seats secured by post or telegram. 'Bus meets all trains. JOHN ANDERSON, Proprietor. BRAEMAR. THE FIFE ARMS HOTEL BRAEMAR, BY BALMORAL. IVTR. M'NAB begs respectfully to inform the Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists, that the extensive additions to the Hotel are noAv completed. The Hotel, as now constructed, comprises over 100 Bedrooms, a Dining Saloon (one of the largest and most elegant in Scotland), elegant Private Sitting- Rooms, Ladies' Drawing-Room, Eilliard-Room, and Bath- Eooms. Charges strictly moderate. Letters or Telegrams will receive the most careful attention. Posting in all its varied departments. Coaches during the Season to Ballater and Blairgowrie Stations. Parties Boarded by the Week or Month. Note. — Gentlemen stayhuj at the Hotel can hate excellent Salmon or Trout Fishing free of all charge. BRAEMAR BRIDGE OF ALLAN BRIGHTON. 9 BEAEMAE. THE INVERCAULD ARMS HOTEL A. M'GREG-OR, Proprietor, Successor to Mr. Fisher. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Coaches from the Hotel during the Season to BLAIRGOWRIE, DUNKELD, AND BALLATER. N.B. — Visitors staying at the Hotel can be accommodated with excellent salmon and trout fishing. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. THE ROYAL ^^^ HOTEL. THIS well-known First-Class Hotel has extensive and superior accommodation for Tourists and Families, with a large Drawing Room and Dining Room for Ladies and Gentlemen, and beautifully laid out Pleasure Grounds. Charges strictly moderate. It is situated in the centre of this famous Spa, and is within easy access to Callander, the Trossachs, Loch Lomond, and most of the finest scenery in Scotland. Postmg establishment complete. A 'Bus belonging to the Hotel awaits all the Trains. ROBERT PHILP, Proprietor. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. QUEEN'S HOTEL ^HIS First-class Hotel affords excellent accommodation for Families, Tourists, and Visitors. A. Anderson, in returning thanks for the kind Patronage received, begs to state that a new Drawing-room has been added, for the comfort of those who may not wish a Private Parlour. A. ANDERSON, Proprietor. BRIGHTON GRAND AQUARIUM. 'FHE largest and most complete Marine and Fresh Water Aquarium in the world. -^ The Collection of Fishes anil otlier aquatic Animals in tliis magnificent Establish- ment is unequalled for variety and the number and size of tlie specimens exhibited, Herring, Mackerel, Sterlet, Lancelet, Mud Fish (Gambia), etc., can here, and nowhere else, be seen in captivity. The Aquarium Band at intervals daily, and every evening at 7.30. Vocal and Instru- mental Concerts, Wednesday and Saturday afternoons at 3. Admission : — Daily, Is. ; Evening at 7, 6d. Schools Half-Price. Annual Subscription, One Guinea: Children, Half-a-Guinea. Periodical Tickets,— One Month, 7s. 6d. ; Tliree Months, lOs. 6d. G. REEVES SMITH, General Manager. 1 BORROWDALE BRISTOL CALLANDER. GOODFELLOW'S, LATE ARMSTRONG'S, BORROWDALE HOTEL, T^RECTED specially for a Hotel, is situated immediately at the Head of Derwentvvater Lake, and at the entrance to the Vale of Borrowdale. Patronised by H.R.H. The PEINCE of WALES, and PRINCE ARTHUR. The noted beauty of the Scenery in this Neighbourhood requires no remarks. The furnishing is done in view solely to contribute as far as possible to the comfort of visitors, who may also safely rely upon the best attendance. Omnibuses will meet all trains at the Keswick Station. Billiards, Posting in all its branches from the Hotel. Good Boating on the Iiake. FISHING FREE TO THOSE STAYING AT THE HOTEL. : Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths. Parties Boarded by day, week, or month, on reasonable terms. BKISTOL. ROYAL HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN. FIRST-CLASS, Central, and pleasantly situated. Very spacious Coffee, Dining, Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Private Apartments en suite. One Hundred and Twenty Bed-Rooms. Steam Lift and Laundry. Hot and Cold Baths. Telegraph Office and Post-office in the Hotel. Fixed Charges. All Omnibuses pass the door. Night Porter kept. W. SWANSON, Manager. CALLANDER. THE MCGREGOR HOTEL, JAMES M'DERMONT, Proprietor. Patronised by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess op Wales. TOURISTS and Families visiting the above long-established and First-Class Hotel (so long conducted by the late Mr. M'Gregor) will have every comfort and attention, and the Charges moderate in comparison with other Hotels in the Highlands. Posting complete. 'Bus awaits all the trains. N.B. — Parties beware of being misled from this Hotel by porters and others on the various routes to Callander. BUXTON. 1 1 BDITOH, DERBYSHIRE. CIESCEIT iOTEL. rPHIS First-Class HOTEL for FAMILIES and GENTLEMEN" forms the South Wing of the Crescent. It is only One Minute from Eailway Stations, and is connected by Covered Colonnade with the Hot and Natural Baths, Drinking Wells, and the Neiv Pavilion and Gardens, where a splendid Band performs Four Hours daily. THE ASSEMBLY ROOM in this Hotel, which has long been celebrated for its elegant proportions, has recently been re-decorated in the first style, and is now converted into the DINING-ROOM OF THE HOTEL. SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES. TABLE D'HOTE AT 6 P.M. FIRST-CLASS STABLING AND LOCK-UP COACH-HOUSES. JOHN SMILTEE, Proprietor. 12 CALLANDER CARNARVON. CALLANDER. DREADNOUGHT HOTEL. D. M'GOWAN, Proprietor. 'pHlS large and commodious Hotel, so long conducted by the late Mr. M'Gregor, and -*- which has recently undergone extensive alterations and improvements, is beautifully situated at the west end of the village, and commands a magnificent view of the Vale of the Teith, Ben Ledi, and surrounding district, and is within a short distance of THE EOMAJT CAMP, THE FALLS OF BRACKLINN, LOCH VENNACHAR, LOCH LUBNAIG, THE PASS OF LENY, BEN LEDI, etc. etc. Tourists will find Callander very central for visiting those places mentioned In Sir Walter Scott's " Lady of the Lake" — viz., the Lnl^e of Mcnteilh, Clachan of Aberfoyle, Loch Ard, the Trossachs, Loch Achray, Locli Katrine, Strathyre, Clachau of Balquhidder (where Rob Roy M'Gregor is buried), Loch Voil, Lochearnhead, etc. During the Summer Season STAGE COACHES in connection with this Hotel and Mr. Blair's Hotel at the Trossachs run several times each day, to suit the arrival and departure of trains at Callander and steamer on Loch Katrine. Omnibuses run to and from each Train. CS" Posting in all its Branches. — Letters for Carriages, Coach Seats, or Hotel Accommo- dation, carefully attended to. Lake and Biver Fishing to be had in the immediate neighhonrhood. CARNARVON, NORTH WALES. ROYAL HOTEL (LATE UXBRIDGE ARMS), FIRST-CLASS FAVilLY & COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENT Beautifully situated on the Banks of the Menai Straits, and in close proximity to the Railway Station. EDWARD HUMPHREYS. An Omnibus will regularly attend the arrival of each Train at the Railway Station. Billiards in detached premises. On and after June 19th, a Coach round Snowdon, after the arrival of the 9.25 a.m. train, via Beddgelert, Vale of Gwynant, and the Pass of Llanberis, arriving at the hotel for dinner, and in time for the train for Llandudno, Rhyl, &c. CARLISLE CH ATSWORTH OHELTENH A M CHEPSTOW. 1 3 CARLISLE. THE COUNTY HOTEL, WHICH affords every accommodation for Families and Gentle- men, is Fire-proof, and connected with the Platform of the Central Railway Station by a covered way. Porters in attendance on arrival of Trains. A Iiadies' CofFee-Room. CHATSWORTH HOTEL, EDENSOR, DERBYSHIEE. This Hotel is beautifully situatediu Chatsworth Park, and within ten minutes' walk of the princely residence of the Duke of Devonshire. The hotel is the largest in the neighbourhood, and its proximity to the Rowsley Station, on the Midland Railway, affords every facility to Tourists desirous of visiting the beauties of Haddon Hall, Matlock, the Mines at Castleton, Dove Dale, etc. Onmibuses from the hotel meet all the principal trains at Rowsley Station. A spacious Coffee-room for Ladies. Private Sitting and well appointed Bed Rooms. Post-horses, etc. HENRY HARRISON, Proprietor; IN CONNEOTION WITH ST. ANN'S HOTEL, BUXTON. R'xilway Station, Rowsley. Postal address, Bakeweli,. CHELTENHAM. BELLE VUE HOTEL. FOR FAMILILIES AND GENTLEMEN. This Hotel is delightfully situated in the healthiest part of the town. TERMS MODERATE. Or. ROLPH, Proprietor. CHEPSTOW. BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL, An Old-Established First-class Family Hotel, within two minutes' walk of the Rail- way Station, Castle, and River Wye. Ladies' Coffee-Room 60 feet by .30. Gentlemen's Coffee and Billiard Rooms. Omnibuses and Carriages meet all trains. Tiutern Abbey 5 miles. W. GARRETT, Proprietor. 14 COLWYN — CONISTON. COLWYN BAY, NORTH WALES. POLLYCROGHON HOTEL, (Late the Residence of Lady Erskiue). T'HIS First-class Family Hotel is most beautifully situated in its own finely-wooded park in Colwyn Bay, com- manding splendid land and sea views, and miles of delightful walks in the adjacent woods. It is within ten minutes' walk of Colwyn Station, and a short drive of Conway and Llandudno. Sea-Bathing, Billiards, Posting. J. PORTER, Propi-ietor. CONISTON LAKE. SLY'S WATERHEAD HOTEL. T^HIS First-Class Establishment is perhaps the most delightfully situated of any Hotel in the Lake District ; it is surrounded with beautiful pleasure grounds and select walks, and embraces most interesting Lake and Mountain Views. IjADIES' and GENTIiEMEN'S coffke-room. BILLIARDS. PRIVATE BOATS. CROQUET GROUND. A Steam Gondola runs daily on the Liake during the Season Open and Close Carriages, Post Horses, Guides. COACHES DAILY TO AMBLESIDE during the Season. Postal Telegraph Station at Coniston. An Omnibus meets all Trains. JOSEPH SLY, Proprietor. CORK. 1 5 CORK. THE liPEiliL iOTIL P. CURRY, Proprietor (Late Raihvay Hotel, Killarney). rriHIS long-established and well-known Hotel is conducted on the most approved and modern system. It has been patronised within the last few years by their Royal Highnesses the Prince of Wales, Prince Alfred, Prince Napoleon, the Due d'Orleans, the Comte de Paris, and the Count de Flandres ; the successive Lords Lieutenant of Ireland — Clarendon, Eglinton, and Carlisle — as well as by all the Nobility and most of the leading Grentry visiting Cork. THE CHARGES WILL BE FOUND MOST MODERATE. THE 'IMPERIAL' OMNIBUSES attend the Arrival and Departure of every Train. 16 CORK CRIEFF. CORK. STEPHENS' COMMERCIAL HOTEL (Opposite the General Post Office, Cork), "POSSESSES first-class accommodation for Tourists, Commer- cial Gentlemen, and Families. It is very centrally situated, being opposite the General Post Office — close to the Bank, Theatre, &c. &c. Charges extremely Moderate. WILLIAM D. STEPHENS, Proprietor, From the West of Eiigland. Extract from a " Tour through Ireland," published in the North Briton, 1864 :— " When we arrived in Cork we took up our quarters at Stephens' Com- mercial Hotel, where we obtained excellent accommodation. " What this Hotel lacks in external show is amplj compensated by unremitting attention on the part of the Proprietors and their attendants to the comfort of their Guests." CRIEFF. DRTJMMOND ARMS HOTEL. T\ MACIvENZIE (late of the Clarence Hotel, Glasgow) begs re- -*-^ • spectfully to intimate that he has become Lessee of this well- known and old-established Hotel, which has just been rebuilt and furnished in elegant style, with every modern improvement. Crieff has now become a fashionable resort for Families and Tourists during Summer and Autumn. The climate, as is well known in the first rank of the medical faculty, is remarkable for its salubrity and its exemption from easterly winds. A SPACIOUS LADIES' DRAWING-ROOM. PRIVATE PARLOURS FOR FAMILIES. Hot and Cold Baths. Posting in all its Branches. A Bus runs to and from the Trains. On application at the hotel a hand-card may be had containing a Syllabus of the objects of interest in Strathearn — forming six pleasure trips from Crieflf. CONNEMARA DINGWALL DUBLIN DUNOON. 1 7 COi^NEMAEA. * GLENDALOUGH FISHERY HOTEL. TMTJLLARKEY begs leave to announce that he has taken the above • establishment in connection with his Hotel at Clifden. It is admir- ably situated for the Angler, commanding as it does the key or centre of the splendid and extensive Fishery of Ballinahinch ; and for the Tourist and Family Parties visiting the Irisii Highlands afiording the most beauti- ful Scenery in the West of Ireland, with all the comforts of Home. The Proprietor trusts that, with every attention to the comforts of his Visitors, he will merit their future support and patronage. Timely application is requested. — Address T. Mullaukey, Hotel, Clifden ; or, Fishery Hotel, Glendalough, via Galway. DINGWALL. DINGWALL, L OCH MARE E, AND SKYE. FRASER'S NATIONAL AND STATION HOTEL. AT THE JUNCTION OF THE HIGHLAND AND SKYE RAILWAYS. T^EOM this Hotel, between Breakfast and Dinner, parties may conveniently visit the -'- whole of the famed Scenery along the Skye Railway to Strome Ferry, leaving here at 10.35 a.m., allowing an hour and a half at Strome, and arriving at Dingwall at 5.48 p.m.; and in like manner Golspie and Dunrobin, besides many other Places of Interest. A large Coffee-Koom. Private Parlours and Suites of Kooms. *i* Posting, Job Horses, and Carriages. A. FRASER, Proprietor. JU RY'S HOTEL, COLLEGE GEEEN DUBLIN- Established 40 Years. CS-reatly Enlarged apd Improved. Situated in the centime of the City, close to the Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, the Castle, Theatres, &c. TABLE D'HOTE AT THREE AND HALF-PAST SLX. Charges Moderate. TWO NIGHT PORTERS IN ATTENDANCE. HENRY J. JURY, Proprieto r. DUNOON. WELLINGTON HOTEL THIS Commodious Hotel is well situated, commanding a magnificent view of the Firth of Clyde. Visitors will have every comfort, combined with Moderate Charges. Open and Close Carriages kept. Carriages wait the principal Steamers. B EIJINBUIIGH. THE OSBORNE HOTEL, WEST PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH {Immediately opposite the Caledonian, and within Three Minutes Drive of the Waverley and Hay market Railway Stations.) FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. QITUATION unrivalled. Views magnificent. Handsome Coffee-Koom. Large Parlours. Comfortable Smoking-Room, and every modern con- venience. First-Class Wines supplied at Prices hitherto unknown in Hotels of this class Luggage taken to and from Caledonian Station /rce of charge. D. M'CALLUM, Manager. EDINBURGH. 19 EDINBURGH, opposite the Scott Monument, and commanding the best views of the Gardens, Castle, and Arthur's Seat. THE ROYAL HOTEL, 63 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH, iHac(^rccjar, Proprietor and Manager. T^HE above has been entirely remodelled within the last two years. It has numerous suites of apartments overlooking Princes Street, one of the finest streets in Europe. The magnificent Coffee-Room for Families and Gentlemen is a hundred feet long and twenty feet high. The Drawing-Room and Library all en suite, fronting Princes Street. The most complete in Britain. The Royal is within a few minutes' walk of the Railway Stations. Spacious Smoking and Billiard Rooms fronting Princes St. A Night Porter. 20 EDINBURGH. EDI NBURGH. PHILP'S COCKBURN HOTEL, Immediatelij adjoinhig the Terminus of the Great Northern Trains. THIS commodious and well-appointed Plotel is beautifully situated, over- looking Princes Street Gardens, and commanding some of the finest views in the city. A large and elegantly-furnished Saloon — admitted to be the finest in Scotland — set apart for Ladies, Gentlemen, or Families, wishing to avoid the expense of Sitting-Eooms. The views from the immense windovi's of this Saloon are, without ex- ception, the finest in Edinburgh. Private Suites of Apartments, Bath-Rooms, Coffee and Smoking Rooms, and every accommodation for Gentlemen. PIANOS IN ALL THE PARLOURS AND SALOONS. Charges, including Attendance, strictly Moderate. P.S. — Mr. Cook (of London) makes this Hotel his headquarters when in Scotland, where every Iniorniation may be obtained of his Tourist arrangements. Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted at the Cockburn. , On Parle Franqais. Man Sprioht Deutsch. First-Class Turkish Baths in connection with this Hotel. EDINBURGH. 21 GRIEVE'S HOTELS. THE BALMORAL HOTEL, 91 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH {Adjoining the New Club). Commands the Finest Views of the " Modern Athens." The Charges of the BALMORAL will compare favourably even with those of minor Hotels. Lists of Prices will be forwarded on application to the Manager. Ladies and Gentlemen passing through the City are respectfully invited to visit the BALMOEAL, and judge of the accommodation and charges for themselves. Hot, Cold, Shower, Douche, Tiorkish, and Plunge Baths on the premises, E. THIEM (from New York), Manager. Wholesale Wine List on Application. ROYAL THE BRITISH HOTEL, 22 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. Public Drawing-Room. Suites of Apartments for Families and Gentlemen. Table d'HCte in the Grand Saloon. Public and Private Billiard-Rooms. 22 EDINBURGH. WEST EEGISTEE STEEET, EDINBUEGH. The Largest Dining Establishment in Scotland. TU'M. ANDERSON, late of Rainbow Dining Rooms, would respectfully inform his '' numerous Patrons tliat having found the Rainbow much too small for his in- creasing business, he has acquired the Goodwill and Premises of the Cafe Royal, West Register Street. W. A. has had this magnificent Establishment redecorated, refurnished, and re- arranged, so as to make it undoubtedly the most Complete Hotel and Dining Establishment in Scotland. THE KITCHEN OF THE CAFE, which is now under a Chef de Cuisine of the first experience in the best Establishments of Great Britain, has been refitted with the most modern and approved Cooking Apparatus, also a new Grill, the whole supplied and executed by Benham & Sons of London. THE DINING SALOONS Have every modem convenience, are large, and specially adapted for a First-class Dining Establishment. Private Rooms fob Ladies, Private Rooms for Dinner Parties ; also a magnificent Dining Hall capable of Dining One Hundred and Fifty Persons. THE HOTEL. The Bed-Room Accomraorlation is excellent, being both large and airy. Families and Gentlemen will find all the comforts of a home, with the advantages of a First-Class Hotel. Families visiting the Hotel have the advantages of the Restaurant. Charges at the Cafe Royal are about One-half usual Hotel Charges. Bed and Attendance, 3s. WM. ANDERSON, Proprietor. EDINBURGH. 23 THE PALACE HOTEL, 109 AND 110 PEINCES STEEET, EDINBURGH. THIS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL Occupies the Best Position in Princes Street, immediately opposite Ednburgh Castle, and commands a Beautiful View over the West Princes Street Gardens, with the Calton Hill and Arthur's Seat in the distance. The Manager will have pleasure in forwarding a detailed Tariff of the (Jharges upon application, and will give prompt attention to any Communications as to Rooms or otherwise. JOHN FLEMING, Manager. EGBERT MIDDLEMASS, Proprietor of the EDINBURGH HOTEL, PRINCES STREET, has the honour of announcing that he has entered on a Lease of THE OiieUS HOTEL, SAINT ANDREW SQUARE, which has for many years been distinguished by the Patronage of the Royal Families of Great Briluin and Euroi^e. It is situated in the principal Square, froin which picturesque views are obtained, within a sliort distance of all tlie Railway Stations ; and while it commands perfect quietude, is in the vicinity of the various Public Buildings and Places of Interest for which the City is so justly famed. The moderate tariff, which has given such universal satisfaction to visit- ors at the Edinburgh Hotel, has been adopted at the Douglas. EDINBURGH. WAVERLEY temperance HOTELS. EDINBURGH, Waterloo Place ; GLASGOW, 185 Buchanan Street ; 4^ R. CRANSTON. (old WAVERLEV opposite SCOTT Mt.iNVMEXT.) PROPRIETOR. NIIW WAVERLEY HOTEL. The above Is a supplementary Hotel, the Old 'Waverley being able to accommodate one half only of its Ivind Patrons. The Furnishings and Fittings equal the highest-priced Hotel in the City. The charges the same as Old Waverley. Recommended by Bradshaw as the cheapest and best they had ever seen ; and by J. B, Gough as the only home he had found since leaving his own America. Plain Breakfast or Tea, Is. Bed-Eoom, Is. 6d. Service, 9d. EDINBURGH. 25 THE WATERLOO HOTEL, Waterloo Place, Edinburgh, DESIGNED and built for the express purpose, in the most commodious and elegant style, and in a most beautiful situation, is always replete with everything conducive to the comfort and convenience of Families, Tourists, Commercial Gentlemen, and other Visitors, and is specially worthy of the attention of such. K E N N E D Y'S HOTEL, 8 Princes Street, Edinburgh, ALSO merits particular notice as an Old-established, Commodious, and popular House. It has excellent accommodation for Families and Commercial Gentlemen. The view from it to the west is at once compre- hensive, grand, and striking. Both Hotels adjoin the General Post Office and Railway Termini. WM. KENNEDY, Proprietor. Iiadies' CofFee-Room at both Hotels. EDINBURGH. CALEDONIAN HOTEL, 115, 116, & 117 PRINCES STREET, and 1 CASTLE STREET. (Exactly opposite the Castle.) R. B. Moore. Late J. Burnett, ALMA HOTEL, 112, 113, and 114 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. {Opposite the Castle.) /COMBINING all the comforts of a Home with the convenience of a HoteL Ladies' Coffee-room and Drawing-room. Table d'Hote. Charges strictly moderate. A. ADDISON, Prqpnefor. 26 EDINBURGH. EDINBURGH. THE ROXBURGHE HOTEL. THIS Hotel is situated in Charlotte Square, one of the finest parts of the City. The garden in front of the Hotel was specially approved of by Her Majesty the Queen for the site of the National Albert Monument. The Coffee-room is quiet and comfortable, and well adapted for Ladies or Gentle- men. The Private Sitting-rooms are laid out with Bed-rooms and Dressing- room en suite. In connection with the above is KERB'S PRIVATE HOTEL. THE ROYAL ALEXANDRA HOTEL 111, 112, & 113 SH AND WICK PLACE, West End of Princes Street, and in the immcdiite neighbourhood of the Caledonian and Hay market Stations. THIS First-class Family Hotel was opened on the 1st of June 1874 by MISS BROWN, formerly of the Windsor Hotel, Moray Place, and the Clarendon Hotel, Princes Street. The Royal Alexandra Hotel has been entirely rebuilt, and fitted up with every modern improvement re- quired for the convenience and comfort of visitors, and Miss Brown hopes to merit a continuance of the favours she has already received. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL, MARKET STREET, EDINBURGH, Now under new Management, possesses unrivalled views of the New- Town, Princes Street, Scott Monument, the Castle, and Public Gardens, and is close to the principal (Waverley) Railway Station. Magnificent Coffee and Commercial Rooms. Private Sitting Rooms and Ladies' Drawing Rooms. Handsome Billiard Saloon and Smoking Rooms. H. SALE, Proprietor, (Late Manager for Messrs Spiers and Fond in Scotland), DARLING'S REGENT HOTEL, 20 WATERLOO PLACE, EDmBURGH. Nearly ojj'posite the General Post-0 ffi.ce. Situated in the Principal Street of the City, in the immediate vici- nity of the Calton Hill and Public Buildings. Large comfortable Coffee-Room for parties with Ladies, free of charge. Also Private Parlours. Turkish and other Baths can he had on the premises. This is admitted to be one of the best Temperance Hotels in Scotland. Charges strictly Moderate. EDINBURGH EXETER FORT WILLIAM. 27 DEJAY'S HOTEL, EDINURGH. 99, 100, 101 PRINCES STREET. THIS first-class Family Hotel is situated in the most pleasant and central part of the -^ Metropolis, overlooking Princes Street Gardens, and directly opposite the Castle. Private Suites of Apartments, also a handsome Select Coffee-Room, a Ladies' and Gentle- men's Drawing-Room, Bath-Rooras, and Smoking-Room. The Culinary Department is under the personal superintendence of Mr. Dejay, whose thorough practical experience as a chef de (yuisine is well known, and will be a sufficient guarantee for efficiency. On parle Frangais. Chareres strictly Moderate. ALBERT HOTEL, 25 HANOVER STREET, EDINBURGH. rpHIS commodious Hotel, situated in one of the principal thorough- fares in the City, affords first-class accommodation to Tourists and others visiting Ediuburgh. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths D. ROBERTSON, Proprietor. IE] X £ T !E H ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL CATHEDEAL YARD. This Old-Established and Fashionable Hotel has just undergone entire renovation, and is fitted with every convenience for the comfort of Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot and Cold Baths. Ladies' Coffec-Roovi. W. BIRKETT, Proprietor. FORT-WILLIAM. CALEDONIAN HOTEL. EODERICK M'DONALD, of long experience as Hotel-keeper in Scotland and England, begs most respectfully to intimate that he has become Lessee of the above first-class Hotel, which contains excellent accommodation for Families, Tourists, and Travellers, combined with reasonable charges. Three minutes' walk from the Pier, where the daily 5-30 a.m. Steamer to Glasgow calls half-a-mile from the foot of the far- famed Ben-Nevis. Guides, Ponies, &c., kept for ascending the mountain. An Omnibus from the Hotel to and from the Inverness Steamers on the Caledonian Canal at Bannavio twice a-day. The Royal Mail Coach to and from Kingussie daily, on the route to Glencoe and Lochlomond. Chahges strictly Moderate. 28 GLASGOW. HANOVER HOTEL, HANOVER STREET, GEORGE SQUARE, GLASGOW. MEKTON R. COTES, Froprictor. "The Editor of ' BRADSHAW highly recommends this Hotel for its Superior Arrangements, Excellent Miinagenient, and Domestic Comforts." — Sept. 7, 1871. " First-Class Hotel for Families and Gentlemen, replete with the comforts of Home." — Murray's Guide to Scotland, 1871. "Quiet Family Hotel, combining excellence in every department." — Black's Quidf to Scotland, 1871. MACLEAN'S HOTEL, 19S ST. VINCENT STREET, GLASGOW. FOR Families and Gentlemen, in the immediate neighbourhood of Blythswood Square, and within five minutes of the termini of the various Railways and Steamboat Wharves. JAMES MACLEAN, Proprietor. GLASGOW. BROWN'S BALMORAL HOTEL, Opi:osite Caledo7iian Station, Buchanan Street, Glasgow. A new first-class Hotel for Families and Gentlemen. Comfort and Elegance combined. CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. T. FRANCE, Manager, Many years at St. James' Hall, London. GLASGOW GLBNCOE. 29 GLASGOW. MACRAE'S HOTEL, 152 BATH STEEET. THIS large and commodious Hotel occupies one of the finest situa- -•- tions in the West End, and at the same time is within easy access of the different railway stations. It has been furnished and arranged to meet all the requirements of a first-class Family Hotel, containing magnificent Coffee-Eoom, Public and Private Drawing-Rooms, all handsomely furnished, with s^secial attention to the comfort of visitors. Parties staying at this establishment can depend on getting every comfort. The Coffee-Eoom is capable of Dining 130 Persons. FINE LARGE BILLIARD TABLE, BY THURSTON & CO., OF LONDON. Hot, Cold, Spray, Shower, and Plunge Baths. HIS LORDSHIP'S LARDER AND HOTEL, 10 ST. ENOCH SQUARE, GLASGOW. Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Teas, Oystek, Fish, and Tkipe Suppers. Good Rooms for Dinner and Supper Parties. Excellent Bedrooms. Lavatory in Coffee-Eoom. Good Smoking-Room. Charges Moderate. Within Two Minutes' Walk of Union Railway Station, Dunlop Street. ', J. SALMON. GLENCOE. " KING'S HOUSE HOTEL, HEAD OF THE FAMED GLENCOE. Excellent Trout Fishing free of charge, — fcesJ months May, June, July, September. Posting in aU its Departments. THE above Hotel has been refurnished in first-class style, so that Tourists may rely on. attention, cleanliness, and eonifort. The scenery surrounding King's House, besides possessing historical associations, is of unsurpassed grandeur, and corapiises the Wild Glens Coe and Etive, Buchael Etive, the Devil's Staircase, part of Wade's old military road, Blackmount Deer Forest, Moor of Rannoch, Sir Robert Menzies' Deer Forest, etc. N.B. — King's House is the starting-point for several Pedestrian Tours, among others, by Glen Etive to Oban, Moor of Rannoch to Blair-Athole, the Staircase to Fort-Wiliiam. During the Season, Coaches between Tyndrum and Fort-William pass and repass daily, Sundays excepted. A. M'DOUGALL. 30 GRASMERE. THE ENGLISH LAKES, GRASMERE. THE ROTHAY HOTEL, Formerly " Moss Head House," built specially for the late Earl Cadogan, 1871-2, and now converted into A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, With every convenience and very superior accommodation. It is situated in the centre of the charming Vale of Grasmere, near to the Church, and within a few minutes' walk of the Lake. From its PRIVATE PLEASURE GROUNDS, which have no equal in the district for beauty and extent, the most enchanting views are opened out ; and from here, if any- where, may be realised the truth of Wordsworth's description of the Vale, " the sweetest spot that man hath ever found." Every facility is provided for Croquet, Archery, and Bowls, and attached to the Hotel is A SPLENDID BILLIARD ROOM. Coaches in connection with the Kallways and Steamers pass several times daily, and Visitors staying at this Hotel will find it most central for making daily Excursions to all parts of the district. Posting in all Branches. Mountain Ponies and Guides. Boats and Fishing. N.B. — A capital trout stream {the river Rothay') nearly surrounds the Hotel grounds, and flows some distance through land occupied by the Proprietor. R. HUDSON, Proprietor. GLENORCHY GREENOCK GUERNSEY. 31 GLENORCHY. INVERORAN HOTEL. ARGYLESHIRE. Ten Miles from the Railway Station, Tyiidrum. T/'ENNETH M'RAE begs respectfully to intimate that he has taken a Lease of the ■^*- above Hotel, which has been newly furnished and otherwise greatly added to and improved. Tourists and Gentlemen staying at the Hotel are allowed the privilege of Fishing (free of charge) in the beautiful river Orchy, one of the best Salmon rivers in the West of Scotland. Coaches to and from Loch Lomond, Fort-William, and Bal- lachulish pass the Hotel daily during the Season. First-class post horses and carriages. Letters for rooms, etc., punctually attended to. T€)ff^Tfl[N][E [H]@T[EL, ^[^[EEff^@©[}C. "DEING the largest and principal Hotel in Greenock, Families and Tourists -'-' will lind all the comforts of a Home at tlie Tontine. JOHN CURRIE, Proprietor. John Currie has also taken a lease of the Hotel and Pier at Colintraive, Kyles of Bute, where he can recommend Tourists, as it is unsurpassed for its scenery and drives. Machines kept. GUERNSEY. OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE. GARDNER'S PRIVATE HOTEL. 'I'HIS establishment, being elevated above the town, commands a sea and panoramic 1 view of all the Channel Islands. Visitors should be particular in mentioning the "Old Government House," there being an hotel whose proprietor is named Gardner situated near the Piers. Table d'Hote. Terms on application. J. GARDNER, Propr. GUERNSEY. CAMBRIDGE FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL, GLATNEY ESPLANADE. THE Cambridge Hotel, Guernsey, is pleasantly situated, directly facing the sea, and conunanding a splendid view of the adja- cent Islands. It has also large Gardens and Pleasure Grounds in the rear. The interior is fitted with every comfort and convenience for the accommodation of families. H. CUELL, Proprietor. 3 2 GUERNSEY GWEEDORE HARROGATE HELENSBURGH. GARDNER'S ROYAL ^^^ HOTEL. FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOUSE, ESPLANADE, GUEENSEY. DONEGAL HIGHLANDS. LORD GEORGE HILL'S GWEEDORE HOTEL. Jtomantic Scenery. Excellent Salmon and Trout Fishing. Sea Bathing. Tourists will find every Comfort at the GWEEDORE HOTEL. pHARGES MODERATE. Hot and Cold Baths, Post Cars, Ponies, and Boats for ^ Hire. Route from Dublin or Belfast, by Strabane and Letterkenny. GwEEDORE, Letterkenny, March 1875. JOSEPH CUNNINGHAM, Mancrjer. HARROGATE WELLS. VISITORS to Hariogate will find many advantages in making their temporaiy residence at this Hotel, it being situated within three minutes' walk of the Sulphur and Cheltenham Springs, seven minutes' walk from the Railway Station, and in the imme- diate vicinity of the Public Baths, Concert Rooms, etc. The sheltered situation of the Hotel makes it admirably adapted for Visitors in Spring and Autumn. Terras per day :— Board and Lodgintjs, in Public Boom, 6s. 6d. each ; Ditto ditto, in Private Rooms, 7s. 6d. each ; Private Sitting-Rooms, 3s. to .5s. each ; Attendance, Is. each. Beds charged extra if for less than three nights. Horse's Hay, 10s. 6d. per week. Boots and Ostler extra. Billiard Room. Excellent Stabling for Hunters and Carriage Horses. 2^,B. — No fees given to conductor to recommend this Hotel. HELENSBURGH, T'HE Finest Watering-Place in the West of Scotland. Trains and Boats to Loch Lomond and Trossachs, and Steamer every morning to Dunoon at 8.45, in time to meet the " lona" for the Highlands by that most celebrated Route — Ardrishaig, Crinan, and Oban, to Staffa and lona. The alterations and improvements at the QtTEEN'S HOTEL are now completed, and the Suites of Apartments for Families cannot be sur- passed. The view of the Clyde and Lake is most magnificent. Tourists conveniently arranged. A magnificent Coffee-Room. Smoking and Billiard Room. All Charges strictly Moderate. Omnibiiscs and Carriages to all Steamers and Trains. A. WILLIAMSON, Proprietor. ILFRACOMBE INVERARY. 33- ILFilCOmE HOTEL, ILFRACOMBE, NORTH DEVON. DELIGHTFUL LOCATION. BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 250 ROOMS. APPOINTMENTS PERFECT. CUISINE EXCELLENT. WINES CHOICE. ACCESSIBLE FROM ALL PARTS BY STEAM AND RAIL. (See Time Tables). ilfracombI ROYAL CLARENCE FAMILY AND COMMEECIAL HOTEL. "OEPLETE witli every Home comfort. Spacious Ladies' Coffee- -*-^ Eoom. Moderate Charges. R. LAKE, Proprietor. First-Class Billiard-Room. Good Post Horses. Omnibus 'meets every Train. iV. B. — A Large Collection of Old and Rare China on Sale. INVERARY. ©/^a^[M[S)@W [H]@T[E[L, Head of Loch Fine. PARTIES staying at the Hotel can have excellent Salmon and Trout Fishing, free of charge, on the River Kinlass and Loch Restel. The Tarbet, Inveraray, and Oban Coaches pass the Hotel daily during the Season. Horses and Carriages on Hire. WILLIAM JONES, Pbopbiexob. C 34 ILKLEY — INNELLAN. ILKLEY— WHARFEDALE Via LEEDS, YORKSHIRE. TROUTBECK HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT AND SANATORIUM. ONE of the best Health Eesorts in the kiugdoni. The finest air, the purest water, and most beautiful of the Yorkshire dales. Proprietor and Physician, William Philip Harrison, M.D., M.R.C.S. England, L.S.A. London. A home for the Livalid requir- ing treatment, or the Visitor in search of health or change. The House is heated throughout in winter, rendering it a most desirable residence. Billiard and Smoke Room, Bowling Alley, and superb Croquet Lawn ; whilst the grounds open on to Rumbold's Moor, affording picturesque walks for miles. Troufcbeck is nearly 600 feet above the sea, and the highest part of Rumbold's Moor nearly 1400. For Prospectus, address, De. Harrison, as above. INNELLAN. ROYAL HOTEL. JOHN CLARK (late of Pier Hotel, Ardnadam, Holy Loch) has much pleasure in informing his friends and the public that he has acquired the above Hotel from ^Ir. Shearer, the late j^roprietor. The House was sixjcially built for a Hotel, is elegantly furnished in modern style, and contains suites of Private Rooms, Coffee Rooms, Smoking Room, Bath Rooul, &c. The Hotel is unequalled for situation, being placed on an elevation near the Pier, and commands a magnificent view of the Firth of Clyde and surrounding scenery. Families and other Visito77S will find first-class accommodation at moderate charges. Parties intending to proceed by " lona " to Ardrishaig and the North would do well to arrive at the " Royal " the previous evenuig. During summer. Steamers arrive and depart nearly every hour for the difi:erent places on the coast, and there is convenient access from Glasgow by Caledonian and Wemyss Bay Railways from Bridge St., and by Greenock and Ayrshire Railway from Dunlop St., several times daily. INVERNESS. 35 SJA€0©^AL©'S STATIOW HOTEL, INVEENESS. Patronised bij their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, and other Members of the Royal Family, and by most of the Nobility of Eurojye. "jDAETIES travelling from South to ]N"orth, and vice versa, will -* find this very large and handsome Hotel adjoining the Station, "whereby they can arrive at, or depart from, the Hotel under cover. The house was specially built for a Hotel, is elegantly furnished with all modern improvements, and contains numerous suites of Private Rooms, including LADIES' AND GENTLEMEN'S COFFEE-ROOM, SMOKING-ROOMS, BILLIARD-ROOMS, BATH-ROOMS, 10.0 10.15 5.53 4.15 9.10 Abeitleen . ,, 3.40 12.40 4.5 Edinburgh • 10.15 10.30 6.5 4.20 9.30 Inverness . ,, 2.45 6.25 Loudon(Eust.)arr. 8.30 9.45 4.30 6.0 9.40 During the Summer months an additional service of Express Trains between England and Scotland will be established, giving connections to all parts of Scotland. 1st, 2d, and 3d CLASS MONTHLY TOURIST TICKETS are (during the Season from the 15th 'Sla.y) issuejt)EBSON, Secrctan,. April IbVa. ' 80 INSURANCE. THE SCOTTISH PROVIDENT INSTITUTION. SHORT STATEMENT OF PRINCIPLES. xHIS SOCIETY differs in its principles from any other Office. Instead of charging rates admitteJl}' higher than are necessary, and afterwards returning the excess, or a portion of it, in the shape of periodical Bonuses, it gives from the first as large an Assurance as the Premiums will with perfect safety bear — reserving the "Whole Surplus for those Members who live long enough to secure the Com- mon Fund fi'om loss on account of their individual assurances. A Policy for £1200 to £1250 may thus at most ages he had for the Premium ixsually charged for £1000 only ; while, by reserving the sui-plus, large additions have been given — and may be expected in the future — on the Policies of those who live to participate. In a few cases Policies sharing at the whole foiir divisions of surplus have been doubled. Its terms are thus well calculated to meet the requirements of intending Assurers. They are specially adapted to the case of Pro- visions under Family Settlements, or otherwise, where it is fre- quently of importance to secure, for the smallest present outlay, a competent provision, of definite amount, in the case of early death. Examples of Premiums, by Diflferent Scales of Payment, for Assurance of £100 at Death— With Profits. Age. 26 30 35 40 45 60 During Life 21 Payments £1 IS 2 12 6 £2 1 G' 2 15 4 £2 (3 10 £2 U 9 3 2 13 7 6 £3 5 3 17 6 £4 1 7 4 12 1 '^ The Premium usually charged at 80 or 35 is as high as in this Office for an age six or seven years older. The New Assurances in 1874 exceeded £1,120,000. Copies of the Annual Report and all information may be had on application. 6 St. Andrew SQaARE, Edinburgh, t i att-o ait , rrc./-»>.^ ,r ., „_, JAMES AVATSON, Manager. April ISo. INSURANCE. 81 Special Notice. NORTH BRITISH AND MERCANTILE INSURANCE COMPANY. BONUS YEAR 1875. LIFE ASSUKATsTCE BUSINESS. A Valuation ^vith the view of ascertaining the Surplus Profit for Division is made every Five Years. The Investigation for tlie Five Years since 1S70 will include all Policies current on 1st January 1876. All rolicies OH the Participating Scale opened on or before that elate will share in the Division. Examples of Bonus Additions on Policies whicli were recently paid. DateofPoUcy.!0"|^-l,«-" Bonus Additions thereto. Total Sum Paid. i 1827 £600 1832 , 500 1836 1000 1839 2000 ' 1843 2000 1850 j SOO 1860 ' 1000 £■455 8 5 352 4 2 609 13 3 1098 3 V 927 12 r 261 5 10 176 9 £1055 8 5 852 4 2 1609 13 3 3098 3 7 2927 12 7 1061 5 10 1176 9 The Accumulated Funds of the Life Department are speeially invested to meet the obligations arising under Life Policies and Annuities, and are not liable for any of the obligations of the Fire Department. These Funds, irrcsjiertive of the Paid-up Capital of £250,000, amounted at 31st December 1874 to £2,682,513:7:6 The Eevenue from Lite Premiums and Interest was . . 409,990 : 10 : 6 AnnuitieSt immediate, contingent, or reversionary, are graiited on favouialile terms. FIRE DEPARTMENT. Insurances at Home or Al.iroad are issued at the lowest rates of Prenduni corresponding to the nature of the risk. The Reserve Funds, irrespective of the Paid-up Capital, amounted at 31st December lS74to £862,238:6:11 The Revenue from Fire Premiums and Interest was . . 873,781:17:2 Copies of the Annual liepurt, Prospectuses, and every information, may he had at any of the Offices or Agencies of the Comjmny. EDINBURGH LONDON . CHIEF OFFICES. . 64 PRINCES STREET. . 61 THREADNEBDLE STREET. Edinburgh, April 1S7 DAVID SMITH, General Manager. 82 INSURANCE. SCpTiTISH NATIONAL INSURANCE COMPANY. Established 1841. EDINBURGH LONDON DUBLIN GLASGOW . MANCHESTER 22 St. Andrew Square. 3 Kino William Street, E.C. 28 Westmoreland Street. 32 Renfield Street. 110 Kino Street. ?nHIS Company has issued 12,000 Life Policies for Six Millions J. Sterling. It lias paid on Claims about £700,000. ■ Large Bonus Additions have been made to Policies out of the Profits. The average Rate of Bonus at the last three Divisions has been more than £l : 10s. per cent per annum. The most ample Reserves have been made for the Company's Liabilities and for future Profits. JOHN M. M'CANDLISH, Manager. ^^^ ^^'^'''' PETERSWALD PATTISON, Secretary. FOUNDED ISOG. COUNTY FIRE OFFICE, LONDON, Scottish. Branch, 75 George Street, Edinburgh. CAPITAL .... £400,000. CHAIRMAN— The Hon. ARTHUR KINNAIRD, M.P. for Perth. Insuiiancew against Loss by Fire are effected upon nearly every description of Property at the Current Rates. SPECIAL FEATURE- FIRE BONUS 25 PER CENT. During the past 68 years, "The County" has retiu'ned periodically to its Policyholders a portion of the Premiums received. Example. — If an Insurer has paid, say £20 of Premiums in Seven Years, and has had no claim for Loss by Fire during that period, he will receive liack £5. Farm Stools and specially hazardous risks excepted. These Fire Bonuses are Fixed at the rate of 25 per cent, and are paid out of a Special Fmid. Rates of Premium same as in other Offices giving no sucli Returns. NO CHARGE MADE FOR POLICIES OR FOR TRANSFERS. FRANCIS A. BRINGLOE, C.A., Manager, Seottisli Branch, 75 George Street, Edinburgh. BOOKS. So Messrs. BLACKWOOD AND SONS HAVE LATELY PUBLISHED :— FABLES IN SONG. By Robert Lord Lytyox, Author of "Poems by Owen Jteredith." 2 vols, crown Svo, 1.5.s. THE LEGEND OF JUBAL AND OTHER POEMS. By George ELIOT. Seconrt Editiou. Fcaji. Svo, 6s. THE SPANISH GYPSY. By George Eliot. Fiftli Edition, crown Svo, Vs. 6d. LAYS OF THE SCOTTISH CAVALIERS AND OTHER POEMS, By W. EDMOXDSTOUNE AYTOUX, D.C'.L. Twenty-third Editiou. Fcap. Svo, 7s. 6d. ILLUSTRATED EDITION of the Same. From Designs hj Sir J. Noel Paton and W. H. P.^ton, R.S.A. Engraved by John Thomson, W. J. Linton, W. Tlionias, Whyniper, Cooper, Green, Dalziels, Evans, &c. In small quarto, printed on toned paper, bound in gilt cloth, 21s. BOTHWELL : A POEM. By the Same. Thii'cl Edition. Fcap. Svo, 7s. 6d. THE BOOK OF BALLADS. Edited by Box Gaultier. Twelfth Edition, with numerous Illustrations by Doyle, Leech, and Crowquill. Gilt edges, post Svo, 8r. 6d. THE POEMS OF FELICIA HEJIANS. Complete in One Volume, Royal Svo, with Portrait by Fmdeu. os. SELECT POEMS OF MRS. HEjMANS. Fcap. Svo, gilt edges, 3s. POETICAL WORKS OF CAROLINE BOWLES SOUTHEY. Fcap. Svo, OS. POEMS OF PROFESSOR WILSON. Containing the "Isle of Palms," the " City of the Plague," " Unimore," and other Poems. Complete Edition. Crown Svo, 4s. POETICAL WORKS OF D- M. MOIR (DELTA). With Memoir by Thomas Aird, and Portrait. Second Edition. 2 vols., fcap Svo, 12s. DOMESTIC VERSES BY^ DELTA. Fcap. Svo, 4s. 6d. SONGS AND VERSES : Social and Scientific. By an old Contributor to"Maga." New and Enlarged Eer Box. The patronage of Royalty throughout Europe, their general use by the Aristocracy and the elite of Fashion, and the well-known infallible efficacy of these articles, give tliem a celebrity unparalleled. Sold by all Clicmi^fs, Pirfu/nurs, and Ilairdrcsscrs. ** Ask for" ROWLAND'S ARTICLES" 96 MISCELLANEOUS. BY APPOINTMENT. TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. ALIENS POitMANTEAUS 37 WEST STRAND, LONDON New Illustrated Catalogues of 500 Articles for Continental Travelling, Post Free. ALLEN'S PATENT QUADRUPLE PORTMANTEAU LADY'S WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU, SOLID LEATHER ALLEN'S PATENT DESPATCH-BOX DESK SOLID LEATHER DRESSING-CASE PATENT SOLID LEATHER PORTMANTEAU O) / ^ ALLEN'S NEW , DRESSING-BAG TEN GUINEA SILVER DRtSSING-BAG Also, ALLCNS PATENT BAC ALLEN'S 5 PATENT BAG Allen's Barrack-Furniture Catalogue "for Officers Joining-, POST FEEE. PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 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