UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SAN DIEGO 3 1822 02 129^355 I SRLF Gen. I Col 1 . PQ 7489 .F4 C813 1908 Cuentos IM-EHM/^ III • CO) I RMOM Bn&tt&vv*** SAN DIEGO 3 1822 02129 6355 iHf UNIVERSITY UBRAKr UWVIRSITY Of CALIFORNIA, SAN ttfifcy W JOUA. CALIFORNIA s • Cuentos Ticos ' Cuentos Ticos Short Stories of Costa Rica By Ricardo Fernandez Guardia The Translation and Introductory Sketch by Gray Casement Cleveland ; he Burrov Broth" rs Company I ' H i.H Copyright, 1904, by Gray Caskment Set up and electrotyped November, 1904 All rights reserved Second Edition THE CENTRAL PRINTING CO. MUNCIE, IND. Contents A Central American Arcadia El Estreno (The Debut) Un Heroe (A Hero) Un Santo Mikigroso (A Miraculous Saint) .... La Politica (Politics) Hidalguia (Chivalry) La Botija ('The Buried Treasure) El Ahorcado (The Hanged Man) Un Espadachin (A Swordsman) Los Gatos Dcmoniacos (The Be devilled Cats) . El Clavel (The rink) . 75 1 12 133 I48 187 203 2 1 I 2 3S 248 259 Illustrations Ricardo Fernandez Guardia . . . Fri I A Vista of San Jose . . . Opposite Port Limon .... Calle de la Estacion or Station Street In the National Park, San Jose . Street Scene in San Jose . Soldiers Drilling in the Plaza de Artilleria Soldiers Ready to Start for the Nicaraguan Frontier A Street in San Jose .... View of the "Liceo" and the Normal College On the Costa Rica Railway Rio Grande Bridge Nearing Completion The Rio Grande Bridge, Pacific Railroad Heavy Work on the Pacific Railroad . A Fill on the Pacific Railroad . Rio Grande Bridge During Construction Crossing the Rio Grande by Cable Before th Completion of the Bridge A Railroad Camp in the Mountain! Sonic of the Pacific Railroad Builders T"he National Theatre .... A Wild Valley A Residence in San fose A Coffee Bcncfi< io Near San Jo A Street Scene, San Jose .... ntispiece Contents 5 9 9 13 •7 20 2 1 2+ 27 3» 3 2 33 3 5 37 4' 4-5 4-9 53 i 59 61 65 ILLUSTRATIONS The Bank of Costa Rica A Banana Plantation In the Central Park, San Jose . The Bishop's Palace In the Patio of a Private Residence Church of La Soledad San Jose from the "Cuesta de Moras ' A Military Review A Religious Possession Veterans of the War with Walker A Humble Funeral An Old Stone Bridge Oxcarts Loaded with Coffee A Coffee Tree in Blossom Troop of Cavalry Passing Central Park Oxcarts on a Country Road A Bit of Puntarenas On the Old Highway to Puntarenas A Slide on the Costa Rica Railway The Park in Port Limon . One of the Difficulties of Railroading in the Tropics On the Coast Plain Church and Park in Alajuela The Foyer of the National Theatre A Village Church . Map ..... PAGE 6 9 71 77 80 83 97 101 114 "5 119 129 ■37 157 i73 179 183 191 194 224 227 230 2 33 237 263 273 294 A Central American Arcadia CUENTOS TICOS A CENTRAL AMERICAN ARCADIA SEVERAL years ago a well-known young writer made a journey through a part of Central America, and on his return home wrote several bright and interesting articles about the countries he had seen. They were written in a satirical tone, and no doubt did much to increase the prejudice already so com- iiiini amongsl us againsl Spanish American coun- tries. 1 le made the mistake of judging the whole from a part. Americans are apt to group .'til of these re publics together in the contempt which they feel for them. It" we are correctly informed, this writer visited only Honduras and ;i little corner of Nicaragua, which are commonly held to be the most backward and unpro ive republics of Centra] America, [f he had continued his journey south to Costa Rica, or north to Guatemala, he might have written in a different strain. 2 CUENTOS TICOS From time to time some enterprising news- paper sends out a correspondent to "write up" some of these countries. As he usually starts out, however, with a preconceived preju- dice, and makes only a flying visit in each place he generally acquires more misinformation than anything else; it takes time to get acquainted with Spanish-American life, at least with the best features of it. It may, therefore, be of interest to take a look at one of these little republics through the eyes of a friendly observer, and such the writer frankly declares himself to be. This article must confine itself to Costa Rica, as it is the only one about which he feels com- petent to write with accuracy, and as it lies next to the new Republic of Panama, soon to be the scene of such a great undertaking, it may be of especial interest at the present time. In the first place, to show the dense ignorance prevailing at home about Spanish-America, the average person does not even know where Costa Rica is, and generally thinks one is talking about Porto Rico, which he may have heard of since the Spanish war. When corrected and told that it is in Central America, he usually says: "Ah, yes, now I know. Don't they have a revolution down there almost every day, and isn't the climate dread fully Unhealthy?" It is astonishing how little Americans know of the countries to the south of them. Life in Spanish-America is a sealed book, as little known STORIES OF COSTA RICA 3 to them as that of Central Africa. The general impression seems to conform with what the New York tough said in describing the street in which he lived : "De furder down yer go de tougher it gits, an' I lives in de las' house, see!" In speaking of Central America, Costa Rica corresponds to the last house, yet in many re- spects it is the gem of the five republics. It is unfortunately true that revolutions are so common in the Spanish-American world as to give ground for the impression that they are always in a Mate of disorder. The good repub- lics, however, suffer from the evil reputation of their had neighbors. There are seventeen of them between the Rio Grande and Cape Morn, and in some one of these there is almost always a revolution in progress. Nevertheless there are eral thai rarely suffer from these ills; Costa Rica, for one. has not had anything worthy the name of a revolution for nearly a score of years, and we could mention others equally fortunate. The bad climate is confined i" the coasl plain. Nearly the whole interior of Central \incr i- high mountainous country, where the climate i- as trul) temperate a- any place in the world. It is never very hoi nor very cold, ami fr :i thing unknown excepl ' 'ii the high til' 'ini tain-. • i ta Rii a although a small c< untry pi a gre.-it variety of scenery and of climate. On both coasts one finds the inten e heal and the rank 4 CUENTOS TICOS overpowering vegetation of the tropics, but on ascending, both climate and vegetation become mine like those of the temperate zone. Yet, whether on the coast or in the highlands, the scenery is always beautiful. 'The dry season in the country west of the main range, which in- cludes the oldest settled part, extends from November to April. During the latter end of this period the vegetation becomes parched and brown, while on the side towards the Caribbean, during the same months, it is raining every day and the vegetation is fresh and green. Most of the country is mountainous but in Guanacaste, the province occupying the north- western part of the republic, one finds another change of scene. There are open grassy plains with patches of woodland scattered about at ran- dom. It is the chief cattle-raising district and here are located the largest cattle ranches of the country. The most convenient route to Costa Rica is from New York or New Orleans by steamer to Port Limon. From there a narrow gauge rail- road leads to San Jose, the capital, a little over a hundred miles distant. The railroad is the prop- erty of an English company, and considering the difficulties of operating in the tropics, such as tremendous rains, washouts and slides, gives very fair service. It runs a through train each way daily between San Jose and Port Limon, besides a number of locals. The railroad is very substantially built, having 3 c STORIES OF COSTA RICA 7 practically no wood in its construction, all the bridges and even the ties being of iron. The rolling stock also is of good quality, and is mostly of iron and steel. The road first passes over the coast plain for some twenty miles when it begins to climb, finally reaching an elevation of over five thousand feet. Then it descends again another thousand before reaching San Jose, which is about four thousand feet above sea level. The scenery throughout the whole route is magnificent and well worth the journey from New York, or even farther. The line climbs about the skirls of the main range, in which are two great volcanoes over eleven thousand feet in height. The mountains are as grand and rugged as the Rockies, with the added beauty of the luxuriant tropical verdure that clothc> them to their summits, and of many foaming white cascades and waterfalls that seam their green sides. As one reaches the heights of 1 artago, the old capital, the scene changes. The traveller mighl imagine himself in New England, for the train runs through pastun bounded by gray, moss grown stone walls, and if il were not t"r the tile-roofed adobe hou e here and there, Or if he did no) follow with hi i the Ion slopes of the volcano, lra/1'1. until the) lose them- in the clouds, the illusion would he aim perfect. There is no sign of tropical luxurian here. ( )n the contrary, the vegetation has a m northern aspect. Once past the divide, however* 8 CUENTOS TICOS which is just beyond the quaint old capital, the train begins to descend towards San Jose and soon is passing through fine old coffee plantations where the coffee trees are shaded by bananas, plantains and other broad-leaved growths. From time to time as the train turns about the shoulder of some hill, one catches a glimpse of the broad interior valley which for more than three hun- dred years has contained the bulk of Costa Rica's population. It has the look of an old settled country. As far as one can see it is cultivated, and the primeval forest, which seems to predom- inate on the side towards the Caribbean, has here been almost entirely cleared off except on the mountain tops. The lower slopes of the moun- tains appear to be painted in patches of different colors where sugar-cane, corn and other crops are growing, the whole having rather the appearance of a checker-board done in varying shades of green and brown instead of red and black. The' whole scene is beautiful, strange, foreign, unlike anything to be seen at home. When the train rolls into the station at San Jose the traveller expects to find everything for- eign also, and, judging from the glimpse he has had of Cartago, with its old churches, moss- grown tile roofs and grass-grown streets, he is prepared to be taken back into the eighteenth century. Things are foreign enough to be sure, .111 there is a goodly number of modern im- provements to be seen. Hacks and hackmen crowd about the station entrance, electric light n i> r r n o m r > M C/l H > O — o O SO (/) H > H O X (/) H 50 pi STORIES OF COSTA RICA I I poles and lamps are numerous, and a neat trol- ley car is waiting for passengers in front of the station. There is a broad macadamized road- way, bordered on both sides by trees, which leads off toward the centre of the city, and a little beyond the station is a handsome park separated from the street by a concrete wall. There are policemen in neat uniforms; the streets are clean and in fairly good repair; everything has a civil- ized look that pleases one after the stories which he has doubtless heard of filthy, ill-paved Span- ish-American towns. If the traveller decides to take a hack instead of the electric tram, he is soon rattling down the above-mentioned wide street bordered by trees, past substantial looking houses, through another pretty park, then on past shops and residences, crossing intersecting streets every hundred yards. Observing that they grow narrower and the city more compact as he advances. The houses are mostly of i,ne story, rising straighl from the inner edge of the narrow sidewalk. When lie arrives ; ( | the principal hotel, a tWO story structure, in the centre of the city, he has another surprise. The rooms an- neatly fur- nished and the bed linen i< clean. Upon dining he finds the table appointmenl • : < an, and that which i- ed to cat by no means bad. and be begins to feci thai things have been misrepre sented to him. In the evening, if it happens to be Thursday or Sunday, he will hear Strains of music. Stroll- 12 CUENTOS TICOS ing out in search of it, he soon finds another park, or, more correctly speaking, a botanical garden, with walks winding among palms and flowers and with benches here and there. He will see a number of people gathered together, promenading along the walks or seated on the benches, to hear the music of a fine mili- tary band in a pavilion. All classes are in evidence. There are gentlemen and ladies. Some of the latter wear hats and others have beau- tiful china silk shawls or paholons thrown about their shoulders. There are barefooted peons in short jackets with sashes about their waists, and peon girls, many of them in the low-necked and short-sleeved garments characteristic of their class, with the gay-colored scarfs known as re- bozos thrown about them, the fringed ends of which hang down almost to their feet. When the concert is over and the traveller has returned and gone to bed, he probably passes a most comforta- ble night, for it is delightfully cool; before morn- ing, indeed, he is likely to need a blanket. Moreover, it is not probable that he will be both- ered by those tropical pests, — fleas and mos- quitoes. As one wanders through the streets in the day- time he may feel somewhat as though he were on a stage set for a play or an opera. Things look as if arranged with an eye to picturesque effects; the one-story houses of brick or adobe covered with stucco, the eaves overhanging the narrow sidewalks, and the two-story houses H B H o pi z PJ c/1 > 2: o en Ph STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 5 nearly all with small iron balconies at the upper windows, in the Spanish fashion. The fort-like cuartels or barracks have mediaeval looking tow- ers and loop-holes; the heavy doors at the en- trance have a small barred window through which a soldier's face is always peering. The streets are full of lumbering oxcarts with lid wooden wheels, in front of which marches the barefooted boyero or driver, invariably with an iron-tipped goad in his hand. There is surely no lack of local color. The sunshine is bright, the air is wonderfully clear, and all about are beautiful cloud-capped mountains, their green slopes dotted with white villages and church- towers. The land on which the city is built drops abruptly to the north and to the SOUth, into river vall< • that as one looks down any of the cross streets, he sees a patch of green mountainside framed like a picture in the ap parent end of the Streel where it terminate- in the valley. A person must indeed be hard to please if he is nol charmed with the prospect. One of the firsl things to impress a stran in San Jose is the number of soldiers and offia tO be seen about the strei They Seem tO 1 t erywhere, BO that one wonders whether I Rica docs n,,t support a large army for so mall a country. On inquiry, however, he finds that the entire number under am nly li ix hundred. When he considers further thai th< are nearly all concentrated in the four principal towns of the country, he ■ HOl WOtulei [6 CUENTOS TICOS much. Two or three hundred soldiers make quite a showing in a city of thirty thousand inhabitants. The rank and file are not very imposing individuals. Most of them are bare- footed, and for uniforms wear ill-fitting suits of blue dungaree, which for a warm climate answer the purpose well, it being cool and dura- ble. The officers, however, are more presenta- ble, dressed in their neat uniforms of dark blue cloth with gold braid. Some of these have quite a soldierly appearance. A squad of from fifty to a hundred men can be seen almost every day in the Plaza de Artil- leria next the artillery barracks. They seem to be fairly well drilled, and are doubtless suffi- ciently good for any service they may be called on to perform, such as putting down a revolu- tionary uprising. In these countries where the population is hot-headed and volcanic in its na- ture, an armed force is a necessity and undoubt- edly works for the good of all by preserving the peace. Costa Rica, as we have already mentioned, has been without anything worthy the name of revo- lution for some fifteen years. There have been, however, several attempts to overthrow the gov- ernment, which, thanks to the military and an efficient police force, were each put down in a single day with very little loss of life. As an example of the inaccurate statements made by the above-noted newspaper correspond- ents, we remember an article written several O Pi V) o 50 r r C5 w Pi r > > e p) H r r s STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 9 years ago by one of them who had just vis- ited Costa Rica. In it he speaks of the "bare- footed soldiers with their rusty muskets" who file out into the park each morning for inspection. They are barefooted to be sure, but they are armed with long range, breech-loading rifles in good condition, instead of "rusty muskets." One lives in the midst of military stir and bus- tle, hears the bugle sound the reveille in the morning and taps at night, can see inspection and guard mount every day in the park; all of which adds to the picturesqueness of the life. The soldiers, although not much to look at, exist for a stern purpose, and when one thinks that they may be called on any day to risk their lives in a bloody conflict it gives them an interest in one's eyes which their outward appearance does not warrant. Sentries are always at the doors and in the turret-like sentry boxes on the walls of the cuartels. There is a triangle <>f different tune in each of the boxes, and at night, when the oir- poral of the guard wishes to see it' his men arc awake, he strikes one, when each man has 1" answer by striking his own. As each triangle ha- a different sound, the corporal can tell whether any one has nol answered. When one waken- in the middle of the nighl and hears the odd, sweel sound, like far away bells, it giv< a feeling "t" security, that one is being watched ■ r. The military system of the country is excel- lent. Each citizen i- required t" bear arms, and 20 "CUENTOS TJCOS every two months the personnel of the garri- sons in the cuartels is changed, for new recruits are brought in and the old ones discharged. The names of all who have served are enrolled in a military register, and when needed can be called in promptly. The government has a sup- ply of Remington and Mauser rifles sufficient SOLDIERS READY TO START FOR THE NICARAGUAN FRONTIER for quite an army. Several years ago, when there was danger of war with Nicaragua, it armed and equipped about five thousand men in two or three weeks and sent them to the fr< mtier. In addition to the soldiers there are the police. They are a military organization: the men are selected from the army, and controlled not by the - h H > c '/. r.- STORIES OF COSTA RICA 23 municipality as in the United States, but by the government. They are mostly men of medium size, not giants like our policemen, yet in their neat blue uniforms, with Colt revolver on hip and heavy club, they present a business-like ap- pearance and seem to perform their duties as efficiently and more politely than those in our own cities. We doubt if any of our cities, except New York, is so well policed as San Jose. At night there is a policeman armed to the teeth, with rifle, revolver and machete, on duty at each street intersection in the main part of the city, and mounted officers go the rounds to see that the men are in their positions. This display of armed force is not so much on accounl of thie and assassins as to deter people from indulging in riot, rebellion and other like diversions. The present commandant of police, although a Costa Rican, is a graduate of Sandhurst, the English military school, lie could have had a commis- sion in the British army but preferred to return to his native land. There are two hundred men under his command in San Jose. He is an able officer, and since taking command has inti duced a number of reforms and improvements. Fi ■]• 1 me thing, the < oiartel de I '■ ilicia < >r p< barracks, which the writer had the pleasure of visiting nol long since, is now as clean and derly as i ne i I i ur military barracks in the United State-. The night police were formerly armed with Winchester repeating rifles hut the present commandanl had them changed i 24 CUENTOS TICOS shot reformed Remingtons^ as he considered these better for the class of men who were to use them. All the other large towns of the country have a police force similar to that of San Jose. One can see signs of progress on all sides. The city is well lighted, having an electric arc lamp at each street intersection, and as the blocks are all short (one hundred Spanish yards) there are no dim spaces between far dis- VIEW OF TH.L "LICEO ANL THE NORMAL COLLEGE tant lights, as in many cities of the United States. On public education, which is compulsory the government has spent much money. There is a large metal school-house, capable of accommo- dating several hundred scholars, near the centre of the city and a number of smaller buildings in • ■ther district-. It is a pleasant sight to see groups of bright-faced children, with their satch- els of books, trooping through the streets to school in the cool of the morning. Some are STORIES OF COSTA RICA 2$ white and others of varying shades of brown, according to the amount of Indian blood in their veins; the majority are neatly dressed and form a very respectable body of school-children. In addition to the common schools, the govern- ment also supports a college for young men and one for young women and girls. The "Liceo" or men's college gives a good course of study and confers the degrees of B. S. and B. A. The courses in the college for senoritas are about equal to those of our high schools. This department occupies a substantial building, with large, airy, well-furnished class rooms. As one rides out through the small villages and country districts he finds schools there also and begins to realize thai something has been done to lift the people out of their ignorance.* It is no sham effort. Ex-presidenl [glesias, who for eight years was al the head of the Costa Rican government (leaving office in May. [902), and under whom much of the progress in education was made, was accustomed to boasl thai the country supported more school teachers than sol- diers. When men of such character are al the head of affairs there is hope for a country. We at home have been so in the habit of de spising Latin countries, especially Spanish coun- tries, that mosl 1 i us have come to look on them beyond hope, excepl for the regenerating touch • In ipeaktng "f lifti". r . fi 'In uppi rule- well educated and o( rable culture, many of the th v plai tern send to 1 uropc and the ' '■■ to b< 26 cuen ros TICOS of the Anglo-Saxon. For that reason the writer dwells (in tlmse points which show some indica- tion of a healthy progress, of a start in the right direction. When one is looking for such things, it is easier to see them than when his eyes are blinded by the before-mentioned prejudice. There are more signs of modern progress to be noted. The electric tramway, already referred to, runs the length of the city and a mile or two east and west into the country. The telegraph system, which is owned and operated by the gov- ernment, reaches nearly all the towns and vil- lages of the country. It gives fairly good service, at rates about half of what they are at home. Telephone lines, under private ownership, con- nect the principal towns, Cartago, Alajuela and Heredia, with the capital. These towns are lighted also by electric arc lamps. All of the electricity in the country is generated by water power, of which the numerous swift-running streams and rivers furnish an abundant supply. The history of railroad building in Costa Rica is interesting. The first railroad was built about thirty years ago. Strange to say, it did not start from the coast, but, passing through San Jose, ran from Alajuela to Cartago. fourteen miles west and east of the capital. All the material was hauled in oxcarts nearly fifty miles, over a mountain range and deep river valleys, to the beginning of the line. Senseless as this may seem, there was reason for it. Up to that time all freighting was c Z o o v> H > n > - > STORIES OF COSTA RICA 20, done by oxcarts, from the Pacific coast, and the "boyeros" or oxcart men, formed a powerful element of the population. On account of their opposition to the railroad, the government, which was building it, took this way of pacifying them, and gave them the work of hauling the material. Although the cost was immense, the road was built and put in operation, every bit of the ma- chinery, rails and bridges being hauled in this way. At about the same time a small bit of road, which is still being operated, was built from Puntarenas, the port on the Pacific coast, to Es- parta, fourteen miles inland. But the greatest task of all was the railroad from the Caribbean coast to San Jose. This was truly a tremendous undertaking", considering the difficulties that had to be overcome. These were not caused by hostile Indian-, as in the building of our first Pacific railroad, but by mighty Mature herself in the region where she is strongesl and where men seem but pygmies. The road was com- menced at thi t where the port of Limon now is, that spol being then bul a wilderne; The eminent began the construction, bul after building about forty miles, turned it over to Mr. Minor C. Keith, an American, now vice-pre dent of the United Fruil Company, who su ceeded in bringing English capital to the coun try to complete the work. The firsl twenty miles of the line i a< ross thi I plain thn iugh tropical jungli nd swamps. It is often said 30 CUENTOS TICOS that this part cost one man for every tie. They died by scores and hundreds, carried off by the tropical fevers. The road, after crossing this plain, was built first along the open country, which skirts the northern slopes of the volca- noes Turialba and Irazu, with the intention of running it up through a pass in the mountains to the height of San Jose. But when the line was completed to Carrillo, the point where the ascent began, it was found impossible to control one of the rivers. . This is a rapid mountain stream, fed by tremendous rains, and, where the railroad crosses it, the country is flat, having no high banks to hem it in. It sometimes changed its course in a single night, leaving the bridge over a dry stream-bed and carrying away the railroad embankment on one side or the other. Numerous attempts were made to overcome this difficulty, but the river, known as the Toro Amarillo, or Yellow Bull, was too unruly. After several bridges had been carried away, the line had to be resurveyed up the other side of the mountain range from a point nearer the coast. It was tremendously heavy work, great cuts and fills that kept sliding in and washing away under the terrific rains following one after another. At one place a whole mountain side kept sliding down and carrying the road-bed with it into the river below. As the traveller crosses one of the numerous iron bridges, he can see a masonry pier standing alone some forty feet to one side of the bridge. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 31 The pier was formerly under it, but some earth- quake shock or other cause carried the whole stream-bed. pier and all. down that distance. In spite of all these difficulties, the road was finally completed. Sometimes funds were so scarce that the laborers had to wait for their pay. KID GR VND1 BRID Mr. Keith frequently had to ride into camps and crowds of mutinous, discontented men, often- times making threal life, bul so great his influent 1 them, and such the c< infi- dence which he inspired, thai after a few cheering words he would ride away leaving them contented o- C 1 i:\K IS THUS and willing- to continue their work, trusting his word for their pay. That the road was finally finished was due almost entirely to his indomita- ble courage and persistency. He seemed to bear a charmed life, passing unscathed through the dangers of desperate men, of fever camps, poison- ous snakes, and rapidly rising rivers, to which THE RIO GRANDE liRIDGE, PACIFIC RAILROAD hundreds, perhaps thousands, succumbed; in out- ward appearance, however, he is merely a well- groomed, pleasant looking gentleman, of medi- um size, yet with wonderfully brilliant and piercing br< iwn eyes. In 1897 the Costa Rican government com- menced building from San Jose to the Pacific < < C x 7 C Z > STORIES OF COSTA RICA 35 coast a railroad known as the "Ferrocarril al Pacifico" or Pacific Railroad. The contract was let to an American citizen an Ohio man. at an estimated cost of something over three million dollars, American gold. This is not the first Pacific railroad with which he has been con- nected, for he was prominently identified with the building of the Union Pacific. A FILL ON TIIF P \< n t( r \n ROAD Although the contrad was lei to a foreigner, the road has been built according to the specifica lions laid down by the government, and under the supervision of Costa Rican engineei The location was largely made by a I Rican, Don Alberto G nzalez who has Itch chief engineer for the government 'lining the i 36 CUENTOS TICOS struction. American engineers say that he lo- cated the road well. Unfortunately the work was stopped when the railroad reached Santo Domingo, a village about twenty miles from the coast, for the government felt temporarily unable to carry it on; but un- doubtedly it will be completed within two or three years. In February, 1903, the contractor turned over the completed part which the government is now operating. There is no lack of passenger and freight traffic, and it appears that the road will earn an interest on the investment. The construction has been a long and tedious affair, for nothing moves very quickly in the trop- ics, except fevers and death, and the government has been too poor to push the work. There is m 1 cheap railroad building in a country like Costa Rica. The mountains are so steep and their sides are so furrowed with deep ravines separated by narrow ridges that heavy cuts and fills cannot be avoided, and as the numerous rivers have deep valleys, many large bridges have to be built. In the first twenty-four miles of the Pacific Railroad, there are seven iron bridges, four of which are over a hundred feet .high; the highest of the four is three hundred and twelve feet from the rails to the water level. This last bridge spans the Rio Grande, and at the time it was erected was the only one of its kind. It is a combination of the cantilever and the arch and was built out into space from each side of the gorge, without any RIO GRAN IH-: BRIDGE HURING CUNSTKUc HON STORIES OF COSTA RICA 39 false-work to support it, ami has a clear span of 450 feet. Considering that the two ends were joined together without being more than a frac- tion of an inch out of measurement, and that not a single life was lost nor a single man seriously injured, it is a credit to American bridge en- gineering and to the skill of those who erected it. From the Rio Grande the line goes turning and twisting like a snake about the folds of the Aguacate Mountains, yet following the valley of the river, which here flows in a westerly direction on its way to the Pacific. For about seventeen miles the work is very heavy. Some of the cuts are more than a hun- dred feet dee]) on the upper side, and there are many fills of sixty and eighty feet in height. The road has not presented such great difficulties as the one to the Caribbean coast, hut there have been enough. In the rain) 'is there were a great many slides in the cuts, and some of the tills re nearly destroyed. Much of this part of the line w : f' 'i' three years or mi tre I the track was laid on it and became SO overgrown with bushes, undergrowth and even trees, that one in riding over it would hardly think it was .1 completed road bed. Owing to the fact that the work was Started from San I -id has nol reached the plain, fevers have not had to be contended with, and only .'i few lives have been 1"-t from Almo-t nil the manual labor has been | formed by nati- 1 I on the whole 40 CUENTOS l'l COS have proved good workers. The peons (which in Spanish simply means laborers) need to be handled in a certain way to get good results. They resent rough talk, so that some of the American foremen, who were in the habit of cursing their men, had to learn their business over again. The peons when they were sworn at laid down their tools and went home; call it Spanish pride or what you will, they will work for no one that thev think is calling them bad names. The workmen board themselves and provide their own sleeping quarters in the railroad camps. The contractor usually supplies each man with a few sheets of corrugated iron for a roof, and the peon does the rest. Their huts are very simple. They do not use a single nail in constructing them, but hind the timbers together with "beju- cos," the pliant vines that grow on the trees in the tropical forest. The vines can be found in all sizes, from stout ropes to small cords, and the peons put them to all manner of uses. One of these railroad camps in the mountains is an interesting place on a pay night, and rather trying to the nerves of a "tenderfoot" who is not used to the ways of the country. The men come in from all sides, with long machetes on hip, colored sashes about their waists, uttering blood-curdling whoops and screams which seem to forebode violence and bloodshed. But they are rather signs of pleasure and contentment than anything else. To be sure, r t X" — ' — -x — / \ \f N S/^ J/ i CROSSING i HE Kio GS 01 mi STORIES OF COSTA RICA 43 they fight more or less among themselves, espe- cially when under the influence of the native brandy or "guaro" made from sugar-cane. But all things considered they are not a dangerous people, and respond readily to fair treatment. One is safer among them than he would be in a crowd of Xew York toughs, for they are a dis- tinct lower class and have an inborn respect for a "senor," one who belongs to a higher social grade. At the same time they are independent, for many of them have their own patch of land which they cultivate, or an assured position on some rich man's coffee hacienda. If not satis- fied therefore with things on the railroad work, they return to their own. A peon can live com- fortably on what an American would call starva- tion wages, and is as a rule a happy-go-lucky individual, seeming to let the morrow take thought for the things of it-elf. Even on the coffee plantations, or haciendas, he i- not bound to the soil by debt as seems to be the se in Mexico and some other Spanish American countries. The proprietor furnishes him with a house— or more properly speaking a lint — to live in, and also hi- firewood, in return for which the peon must work at the current wages for the pro- prietor when be need- him. When the work, which is principally in the coffee-pickinj in, 1- over, the peon is free to go and work where he will until needed again. Besides the peons, i ta Rica is fortunate in having an industrious and frugal middle cli 44 CUENTOS TICOS of small farmers who own land, houses and oxen. Most of them live in the plainest possible way, go barefooted like the peons, dwell in houses with dirt floors, and eat very little else than rice, black beans, eggs and plantains; yet many of them have comparatively large sums of money in the bank. It is from this class that the boyeros or oxcart men are largely drawn. They are a rugged, independent set, earning very good wages. From San Jose to Puntarenas, the port on the Pacific coast, there is an old highway which, be- fore the building of the Costa Rica railway, the one to the Caribbean, was the only means of com- munication between the coast and the interior, ex- cept some narrow trails. Until the completion of the Pacific railroad to Santo Qpmingo all mer- chandise entering or leaving the country by way of Puntarenas traversed this road in oxcarts, and even yet it has to go in that way from Santo Domingo to Esparta, about fifteen miles. Old residents say that years ago the road was in such good condition that cue could ride comfortably in a carriage the whole distance from the capital to the coast, but since the opening of the Costa Rica railway, the government has allowed it to fall into a bad state of repair. The oxcarts and the rains have continued the work of destruction. Even now. however, it is partly stone-paved and is good enough for travellers on horseback or for oxcarts. It gives evidence of having been at one time a fine: road that must have cost a great deal of money. > 50 O > o - X H > STORIES OF COSTA RICA 47 The phases of life to be seen in travelling over this highway arc most interesting. One would think he had gone back a hundred years if it were not for the roadside telegraph line, which is about the only thing that reminds him that he is living in the age of modern inventions. He meets trav- ellers on horseback with revolvers strapped about them, saddlebags and blanket mils behind their saddles; caravans of lumbering oxcarts laden with freight, cowboys with herds of cattle on their way to the interior, and peons m short jack- ets with the ever present machete hanging from their belts. The entire distance between San Jose and Esparta is marked off in kilometers by iron posts, having the distance from each place let- tered on them. Every twenty two kilometers throughout the whole route is a town or village where travellers stop for breakfast or to spend the night at little old fashioned inns. Although unpretentious looking places, they are fairly clean and supply a sufficiently g 1 meal. That these towns are all about the same dis- tance apart is said to be because twenty two kilo- meters is a da) ' j< >urney, in an i ixcai t. The old settler camped at these places at the end of their day's journey and afterwards the villa] ew up then-. Those persons who are fond of the "good old days" as they are called and like old fashioned ways would certainly enji y a trip on 1 rseback over this old highway. Vboul twent five miles from San Jose* the traveller, who has passed over a fairly level but gradually descend 4^> CUENTOS TICOS ing country, comes to the valley or canon of the Rio Grande. The road goes down four or five hundred feet, crosses the river on an old stone bridge of a single arch, then climbs up perhaps a greater distance on the other side. In fact, after leaving the river valley, it ascends all the way to Atenas, a pleasant village nestled among the folds of the Aguacate Mountains. From here the road climbs up over this range, which is about four thousand feet high. The summit is often enveloped in clouds and the traveller rides through white mist that shuts off the view. If, however, the day is clear he gets a prospect that is worth going a long way to see. Below him the white road zigzags down the green mountain side until it reaches the villages of San Mateo and Santo Domingo lying just beyond the foot-hills at the beginning of the coast plain, which de- scends gently from there to the sea. The beautiful Gulf of Nicoya and the blue Pacific, edged here and there with white, where the great ocean surges are breaking on some rocky point, lie smiling in the sun. Puntarenas, on its long sand spit with its an- chored vessels and the coast line for many miles can be seen as clearly as though it were a map. The traveller must be in a great hurry if he does not spend some minutes looking at the magnifi- cent panorama. Costa Rica, no matter where one goes, is a land of beautiful views. One rarely takes even a short ride without stopping to gaze at the altered o S pi H W o 1-1 o 53 O > o a r Pi STORIES OF COSTA RICA 5 1 aspect of some mountain, changed by the new- point of view, or at the beauty of some deep wild river valley, or the quiet picturesqueness of an old stone bridge over a clear, swift-running stream. There is a charm to life in such a place whether in the city or in the country, and it is a matter of remark among the foreign residents that anyone who has come under its spell for a year or two never gets entirely over it. but al- ways has a desire to return, as did those Greeks who found the land of the lotus eaters. San Jose, although a small city, probably not having more than thirty thousand inhabitants, is a capital and a metropolis in miniature. It is the governing and the business centre of the republic. The government is equipped with all the machin- ery of that of a much larger country. There is a house of congress, cabinet ministers, a bureau of statistics, a government printing office, where all official reports and documents are printed, a na- tional theatre, owned and managed by the gov- ernment, and an office of public works which has charge of public improvements and such under- takings as the Pacific Railroad. There is something of a diplomatic corps, for the United States and several Spanish-American republics are represented by ministers, while nearly all tl 1 nations have • i look after the interests of their subjects residing in the 1 untry. There are several foreign colonies. The Span- ish is the largest, although the American, Eng- 52 CUENTOS TICOS lish, Italian, German and French are not far behind; One becomes quite a cosmopolitan after residing a year or two in San Jose, for he comes in daily contact with all these nationalities. A goodly proportion of the foreigners are people of education, belonging to the middle or upper classes of Europe or elsewhere. Spanish, being the language of the country, is the medium of communication among all these nationalities and is also the language of business. Xext to that, English is most spoken, yet any one who thinks of coming to these countries to en- Sfaee in business should not cherish the idea that it is sufficient for him. To make the most of his opportunities he should know Spanish and know- it well, for it is the language spoken from the southern boundary of the United States clear to Cape Horn. For one who has a comfortable income or an assured salary there is much to make life pleasant in San Jose. One attraction is the national theatre. The writer hardly expects to be be- lieved when he states that it is as handsome and well appointed as any theatre in New York. Although it is of only medium size, having a seating capacity of about 1,000. all the decora- tions and appointments are of the best. It was built and is managed by the government. Though, when looked at in the cold light of com- mon sense, it may seem a most foolish expendi- ture of the public funds, these people are of a different race from our own and have different siias:: a. _\ > — C > r- y. f I - <* tfJ ' i 9 J ■ Ml | :!♦ • J ' Miff — 1 STORIES OF COSTA RIi \ 55 ideas of what is worth while. The theatre is built of stone, iron and marble, and is earthquake proof as all buildings should be in a country like Costa Rica. Skilled workmen and artists were brought from Italy to build and decorate it. a task which took several years. It cost nearly $600,- 000 American gold. There are many frescoes upon the walls and ceilings, all of which are of a high order of excel- lence. The foyer is very beautiful, having an inlaid hard wood floor, carved marble wainscot- ing and pillars and handsome decorations in has relief on the walls. On the ground floor arc restaurants and cafes where the playgoers refresh themselves during the long intermissions. The theatre is also equipped with a x n <><\ electric plant of it- own, and is well lighted. What mosl surprises a stranger is to find such a beautiful play house in a country which he has probably always thought of as only half civilized. Unfortunately, as San Jose is but a small city, the theatre 1 ed t'"i" the greater part of the Mar; -till for two "i" three months each season one can hear opera or drama. Some "i the opera troupes are excellent and would compare favorably with those at the French 1 ipera hi iuse in Xe\\ ( trleari The citizens al m< 1 their mone worth oul of the theatre in another waj I ifficial banquets and balls are given here, and as the (1 11 »r u here the orchestra chaii re pi arranged thai il can be raised to the level of the 56 CUENTOS TICOS stage, the place makes a magnificent banqueting hall or ballroom. If a tourist from the north, one of those who come expecting to find a country of Indians and half-breeds, were to happen in on one of these occasions he might fancy himself in New York, except for the number of dark-faced men and women and other bits of local color. Another of the charms of life in San Jose is the * nearness of the country. A ten minutes' walk in almost any direction will take one out among coffee plantations and green pastures where cat- tle are grazing, for the city, like all Spanish towns, is very compactly built. There are no smoking chimneys nor grimy factories to mar the landscape, for Costa Rica is almost entirely an agricultural and pastoral country. To be sure the newly arrived "tenderfoot" from the north may find some unlovely sights that interfere with the Arcadian charm, perhaps a swarm of black vultures devouring a dead horse or cow, or per- haps some drunken peons fighting with machetes. If he leaves the highroad and goes blundering about among the thickets and bushes he may get "eoloradillas"* or "niguas"f in his feet. Never- theless all these things should not disturb him, es- pecially if he be of an artistic temperament, for he will regard them as part of the local color of the place. There is considerable foreign capital in Costa Rica. — American. English, French and German, *.\ small insect known as a chigger in the southern states. vAn insect known by the name of jigger in the south and west. r- o r r STORIES OF COSTA RICA 59 and more is coming. It is a good country in which to invest money if the enterprise itself be safe. The government and the educated classes look upon it with favor and protect it. It is as safe as in the United States. The revolutions or revolutionary uprisings interrupt business no ■ more than does an election at home. Even if mc ml. the} are no more than a change in the governing powers. There are usually a few men killed, bul they are almosl always infc parties \\ hi i ran thi vi rtuntarily. The G '-I Rica Railway Company, Limited, the road to the < !aribbean, repr< an itn 6o CUENTOS TICOS merit of between two and three million pounds sterling of English capital. The Tramway Com- pany of San Jose, with the electric lighting ser- vice which it also operates, represents another £300,000. The United Fruit Company, the great Ameri- can corporation engaged in growing and selling tropical fruits, which owns extensive plantations in several different republics, has over five thou- sand men on its pay rolls in Costa Rica, and ships from twenty to thirty thousand bunches of bananas daily from Port Limon. There is some American capital invested in gold mines, with the prospect that the amount may be greatly increased. Germans and French- men have invested quite extensively in coffee plantations and beneficios. The largest wholesale stores in the country are in the hands of Ger- mans. The principal banking institution is the "Banco de Costa Rica." It is entirely a native enterprise, being financed and managed by Costa Ricans, and is the place of deposit for govern- ment funds. It occupies a substantial building of stone and marble in the central part of the city. Commercial transactions are made easier and safer by the fact that the monetary system is stable. Costa Rica is on the gold basis; the unit of value is the colon, worth exactly forty-six cents in American gold. The gold standard was put in force in T900, during the administration of Don Rafael Iglesias and' was due more to his ef- forts than to those of any other one man. He is STORIES OF COSTA RICA 63 one of the most progressive men that Central America has produced, and although he has had but a small stage on which to play his part, is a statesman of more than ordinary talent-. The Pacific Railroad and various other undertakings can be put to his credit also. But like sonic of the prophets of old. he is not appreciated in his own country. Since he left office, he has been the object of hitter and humiliating attacks from his personal and political enemies, and has even found it necessary to fight a duel. Nevertheless with all these material and practi- cal advantages, Costa Rica in common with the other Spanish American republics, is a land of adventure and dramatic events. There are plots and intrigues, duels, midnight assaults on castle- like cuartels. — fugitives from justice in the United States or Europe flee here for refuge, as they used to go to our western frontier; exili from neighboring republics who may have headed an unsuccessful revolution come by sea or land to save their lives from the hand of some wrathful dictator; adventurers and gold seekers from the western states drift in to -take then all "ii a last chance, willing to leave their bon< if unsuccessful. The spell that swayed the Spanish conquen and led them through tropical swamps and jut gles and over almosl impassable mountain rangi in search of El D< irad< >, till hangs over th< lands. Min are still risking their liv< i rching 1 r th( gold that they believe to be hidden away 64 CU.ENTOS TICOS somewhere in the tropical wilderness, and the air is full of tales of buried treasure, lost mines, and fabulously rich veins of quartz that some- where off in the mountains are yet awaiting the fortunate finder. The future of these countries must be of inter- est to anyone who has lived in them. Up to the present the great tides of human life have swept by them unheedingly. They are comparatively unknown to the great horde of travellers and tourists that traverse Europe, the United States and the far East. The constantly recurring revolutions, the inter- necine wars and the fevers of the tropical coasts have given them an evil fame throughout the world. The idea is growing in Europe as well as in the United States that they are not fit to gov- ern themselves but must eventually be taken under the wing of some strong power that can give them a stable government. Yet if all of them were as peaceful and progressive as little Costa Rica, they would soon lose that evil fame and would cease to be a reproach to the country that bore them. However, if any European power should un- dertake to conquer such a country as Columbia or Venezuela, it is safe to say that it would have a greater task than had England in South Africa. Each republic has a population of about three million, instead of the three hundred thousand odd of the Transvaal and the Orange Free State. The people are used to warfare and bloodshed r . r. v - IS, v. o w STORIES OF COSTA RICA and with all their faults are not lacking in cour- age, while the natural difficulties to be encount- ered by an invading army would be greater than those of South Africa. The mountain ranges are high and precipitous; there are impenetrable jun- gles and on the coast a European army would lose thousands of men from fevers and other diseases. An American in any Central or South Ameri- can city is often impressed by the tone of un- friendly suspicion and veiled hostility displayed by the local papers, and even by individuals, when speaking of the United States. It seem- strange considering our stand on the Monroe Doctrine and our other friendly arts, ft is doubtless partly the fear of the weak for the strong, but when one ponders over the facts of history, he may con- clude that there i> some ground for this feeling. The Anglo-Saxon race has diminished Spanish dominions considerably. \s far back as the -i\ teenth century the English began to prune for their own profit the great Spanish empire. British Honduras, British Guiana and all of the West Indie- once belonged to Spain. We \m< cans have also taken a band in the pleasant pa time. We took from M< i Spanish country, more territory than is at presenl comprised within her boundary To be sure \\e aft< wards paid her >ome millii dollars \<>r it. yet the transaction is rather like going into a man's house, kicking him out. and at on* ai time and pleasure paying what one thinks best. 68 CUENTOS TICOS At the outbreak of the Spanish-American war, we solemnly declared that we were simply going to right a wrong and had no desire to acquire territory. Nevertheless, we politely relieved Spain of all her colonies of any consequence. No mat- ter how good our reasons may have been for doing so it has not increased" the affection of Spaniards or Spanish Americans for us. What concerns them is that the Anglo-Saxon is gradually encroaching upon the Spanish-speak- ing nations. We are apt to think of the Spanish race as cruel, treacherous and blood-thirsty. They also have an opinion of us. They think us cold, cal- culating and hypocritical, always seeking the almighty dollar. There may be some grain of truth in each opinion. Perhaps we do see the fin- ger of God pointing us along the paths of our own interests, even as some ministers of the Gos- pel can hear the voice of the Lord calling them to a higher salary. This suspicious fear of us will account for some of their actions. The rejection of the canal treaty last year by the Colombian Congress was not altogether a game of "graft" as so many newspapers have claimed. Many Colombians feared that the canal strip would prove to be the entering wedge and that little by little we would absorb the rest of their country. The Colombian colony in Costa Rica sent a cablegram to the congress while it was in session at Bogota, begging it to save the STORIES OF COSTA RICA 71 national honor and integrity by reforms in the canal treaty. The careless speeches and even the writings of some American travellers have not allayed this feeling. Take f. ir instance si ime of the opinions expressed by the writer already referred to. In his article on Central America he says: A B PI v."t\tio>j "The Central American citizen is no more lit for a republican f< rm of government than he is for .'in \r< in <■■• p< dit 11. and what he nee< have a pi rate < tablished 1 ■• er him, either by the United States or by another p< 7-> CUENTOS TICOS does not matter which, so long as it leaves the Nicaragua canal in our hands." A little further on he also says: "The Central Americans are like a gang of semi-barbarians in a beautifully furnished house, of which they can understand neither its possibilities of comfort nor its use. They are the dogs in the manger among nations." Is it any wonder that Spanish-Americans are rather suspicious of our ultimate intentions, and are prone to look on the Monroe Doctrine as a smiling mask behind which we are merely- awaiting our own good time to come and benevo- lently assimilate them? The time is approaching, perhaps has already arrived, when Spanish-America will emerge from its obscurity and occupy a larger place on the world's stage. For Costa Rica that time will come with the building of the Panama Canal. When that great work is well under way she will cease to he an isolated, unknown country. She will he next door to one of the great trade routes of the world. She will sell her food prod- ucts to feed the thousands of laborers employed on the construction, her cool highlands will become a place of refuge and recuperation for fever-wasted men, and the charms of San Jose will become known. It is safe to say that her future will be brighter than her past has been. Cuentos Ticos (Costa Rican Stories) By Ricardo Fernandez Guardia Author's Note : To the reader wl I ntral America tlir inhabitants of Guatemala are called ilvador and Honduras "Guan I. I • • : I , unintelligible. I h<- author ; for a work which from il the little I ). 01 al I EL ESTRENO. (the debut.) AS the clock struck four, Don Gregorio Lopez, second civil judge of the province of San Jose, folded up with one motion the judicial papers he was studying, and pushing hack the leather covered armchair in which his thin person rested daily during the appointed hours, stretched himself vigorously, extending his arms like a cross and clinching his fists, while his mouth opened wide in a long yawn which moistened his eyes. The hour for going had arrived, a blessed hour for scholars and of- ficials. Don Gregorio stood up and finished stretching himself on tiptoe, as though to awaken the muscles of his legs, asleep from such long inactivity. Then he took three steps to- ward the wall, where on a rack hung his hat, of majestic, judicial form, which he pul on almosl to his ears, according to the old custom, for the judge belonged to the generation now almosl passed away, which wears it- ha I tilted back and it- waistcoal half butt >ned. Armed with an immense umbrella, capable of 76 CUENTOS TICOS serving as a shelter to a family in case of need, be started, passing- through the office of the sec- retary of the court, of whom, and of the clerks, he took his leave with an affectionate "hasta manana."* In the corridors he ran across Juan Bias the porter, who was vexed on seeing that already almost all of his colleagues had gained their lib- erty, but Don Gregorio Lopez was a chronometer, a man of scrupulous conscience, who would not skimp his time or work. When he was about to set foot in the street he heard a familiar voice which asked from the vestibule, "What is God doing with that life of yours. Don Gregorio?" The judge turned to answer the salute of Don Cirilo Vargas, Magistrate of the Court of Casacion.f The two men of the law clasped hands, and after affectionate inquiries from each about the condition of their respective families, they went on together to the corner of the Palace of Justice, where they paused to converse a while. After a little thev separated with an- other hand shake, Don Cirilo sfnine in the direc- tion of the market and the judge with much haste towards the Central Park, because it was threatening rain and he lived far off in the plaza of la Soledad. But he had walked only a few steps, when turning about suddenly, he called : "Don Cirilo; Don Cirilo!" He of the Casacion stopped in an expectant attitude, but Don Gregorio who was advancing 'Until to-morrow. tAppeals. X H — PI o PI V. — r - ?-. > 2 c STORIES OF COSTA RICA 7«) with an air visibly perplexed and bothered, stopped again, saying, "It is nothing, Don Cirilo, pardon me for calling yon. I wanted to consult you about something that perplexes me, but there is no hurry; some other day, for the rain is com- ing on us now." "When you wish; I am always at your service," replied the magistrate. The judge thanked him and continued on his way hurriedly, for the sky was clouding up more and more. Don Gregorio was not only in a groat hurry that afternoon, but also in a devilish humor. As he traversed the Central Park, deserted on ac- count of the approaching rain storm, he let loose two or three imprecations and some hits of that about which he was meditating: "Cursed woman! What a passion for making me ridicu- lous!" Then a little later when he was passing by the side of the Bishop's Palace he stopped and exclaimed: "I won't say it to Don Cirilo." This violent resolution seemed 1" calm him a little. \.S some large drops were beginning to fall which sounded loud on the neighboring tile- roofs, he took out hi-- umbrella, which he was carrying under hi- arm. and commenced to walk with all the speed possible t - . hi- poor legs, grown old in the chair- of twenty public offio and to an ingrowing toenail, which was one oi the torments of hi- |j When he reached home all the cataracts "f the sky precipitated themselves upon the capital. circumstance which stirred up hi- ire anew, be 8o CUENTOS TICOS cause he had such a horror of wetting himself that evil tongues asserted that, since the day of his baptism, water had not touched him. Al- though it is probable that in this there might be some exaggeration, it is certain that Don Gre- gorio believed firmly in the national saying that "earth on the body is better than the body in the earth." This he never forgot to repeat to his daughter Aurelia whenever he heard her splash- THE BISHOP S PALACE ing about in the bathroom. When he was under cover, the judge commenced by putting his enormous umbrella, from the point of which is- sued a fountain, to dry in the corridor.* Next he changed his wet boots for some canvas slippers. Then, wondering at not seeing his wife or *The gallery or covered walk about the patio or courtyard of Spanish-American houses is known as the corridor. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 8l daughter ready to aid him in these important oper- ations, he went to look for them where they were accustomed to sew. The room was empty. Little, or more correctly, no desire had the judge of seeing his wife at that time, since she was the cause of his had humor; nevertheless as the unaccustomed absence of the ladies at the dinner hour surprised him, he went to the kitchen to learn of their whereabouts from the servants. There he learned from Ramona, a robust maiden from Curridabat,* who suspended her kitchen tasks to inform him, that Doha Catalina and the young lady Aurelia had gone shopping, taking the maid servant with them. It would seem natu- ral that, on learning what he wanted to know, Don Gregorio would retire from the kitchen; nevertheless, one must suppose that he did not so intend since he remained in the same spot look- ing with manifest pleasure at the plump charms of the maiden. For Ramona was a very pretty girl. Her eyes, large and full, were not larking in mischief; her very abundant blue black hair was in two handsome braids; her mouth was pretty, her teeth white; and her brown "-kin. smooth ami lustrous, showed the Indian blood of her an- cestor The judge looked admiringly at her firm breasl and well-rounded arms, which emerged hare from the 1' >W necked and shoi <'d garment of Per cli Ml his life he had been very partial to plump women, or at least w< ■ \ vill.-iRr nr.-ir 82 CUENTOS TICOS rounded ones, and such had been Dona Catalina when he married her. However as time passed, cruel and mocking Destiny had taken a hand in the matter in the form of dyspepsia, and she who had formerly been shapely and rosy had now become thin and yellow like a bit of macaroni. Ramona, whom the breezes of San Jose had sharpened considerably, doubtless read some audacious thought in the brilliant pupils of the judge, since she directed a glance at him which made him understand that he was in a bad posture and that his dignity was in peril. Without wait- ing more he turned about. "Do you wish me to serve dinner?" said the girl politely, on seeing him go away. "Doha Catalina cannot come before it clears up." "No, thank you. I shall wait until the ladies return." Don Gregorio marched to the bedroom of his wife, which was also his, and taking out a key from the bottom of a porcelain flower bowl opened with it a wardrobe of Spanish cedar, of monumental proportions. The judge disappeared completely within that venerable piece of family furniture, but soon emerged again, with a bottle in one hand and a glass in the other. After tak- ing a scrutinizing glance, as though to make sure nobody saw him, he filled the cup to the brim and drank it at one gulp. In that act, seemingly innocent, Don Gregorio Lopez, second civil judge of the province of San Jose, had committed a misdemeanor punishable STORIES OF COSTA RICA 83 by Article 473 of the Fiscal Code of 1885. The liquid which the bottle contained was contraband brandy, with which a friend and comrade from Puriscal kept him constantly supplied. One can be a model official, an honest judge, and a man of chastity, and at the same time be unable to resist the seduction of a little glass of contraband "Guaro"* or of a little cigar of "Chircagre."f An example of this was Don Gregorio, who, while he had been able to defend himself against EkV' — — ■ I'jj m/ w K'jfejj "+*j** ! 1 « HH n^B IN THE I'M I<> OF A PKIVATI R] -IM the terrible temptation of plump firm flesh, pre- serving the fidelity owed to his very thin Cata- lina, was never able to conquer his tyrannical appetite for contraband brandy. ! - trong than thai had been his profound 1 for the law, the voice of his conscience, and even the fear inspired by his wife who had losl no chance of condemn ing such a shameful weakness. All thai she could gain wa - thai he h< >uld concede to her the tody of the exquisite liquor, to avoid thai her husband's irresistible inclination should d< •Native bi n ' ■ n I ■• r - ■ 84 CUENTOS TICOS erate with abuse into a vice. For this reason he was kept on a ration; a dram in the morning, and a dram in the afternoon before dinner to give an appetite. Doha Catalina herself measured the pittance, and in spite of the protests of the inter- ested party she always found a way to skimp it a little. That afternoon, traitorously taking advan- tage of his wife's absence, the judge had served himself with the large spoon. Nor was this the worst, since, encouraged by the good success of his first exploit, he was now meditating a sec- ond even more wicked while he was putting the things back in the wardrobe; nothing less than to keep his mouth closed and have another go at the bottle when his wife returned. This pleasant prospect caused Don Gregorio, who had reached home in a very hostile disposition, to quiet down considerably. As he had resolved not to dine until the ladies returned, he went to await them in the drawing room, where he installed himself comfortably in a rocking chair, after taking out a newspaper from the drawer of a table. Before starting to read he inspected the street through the window. Not a soul was passing and the rain kept falling in torrents, inundating streets and patios. The judge spread out the paper, the only one that found entrance into his house, "La Union Catolica."* for Don Gregorio Lopez, a man addicted to old fashions, who wore half boots, was a fervent though bashful Catholic. For a long time he took no care to conceal his *The Catholic Unnn. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 85 beliefs nor his practices, but since liberal breezes had begun to blow in the government, and he had seen with stupefaction that the Sefior Bishop and the Jesuit fathers had gone out into exile, he thought the moment had arrived for relegating his faith to the bottom of his heart, and in regard to masses he attended only that at five o'clock in the morning, concealing himself behind a con- fessional hi ix. Apparently, and in order not to go against the current, he applauded the great legis- lative reforms of the new men, but privately he did not cease to bewail the corruption of customs and the progress which liberalism and unbelief were making, not only in the educated classes and particularly in the young students, but also among the artisans, who now believed neither in God nor the devil. Full of anxiety, he asked himself when- society and the country would M<>p. when the so neces sary bit of religion sh< iuld cease to exist, above all if ideas kept on advancing, although this he did not consider possible, because Providence would -nrcly end by getting angry and putting things to rights. " \t the pace w( ar< 'ing," he ' »ften said t" himself, "We'll have another French revolu tion here very soon." l'ii- this reason he greatly admired in secret the daring of the paladines of "I. a Union Cato liea" who did nol hesitate to tell some plain truths to those upstart liberals, and even t<> the ma themselves, a seel which inspired him with mys- 86 CUENTOS TICOS terious terror. Don Gregorio was prudence per- sonified, and in his long life as a public employe he had learned that to fight against the govern- ment is to kick against the pricks, and for this reason he confided his private thoughts to no- body. As everybody always saw him on friendly terms with politicians and other people not very Catholic, he passed generally for a man of pro- gress and of liberal ideas. In order not to com- promise this reputation, which was of advantage to him, the judge carried his diplomacy to the extreme of not appearing in the list of subscribers to the clerical daily,- which the curate of La Soledad, a warm friend of his, sent to him every day by an acolyte. Don Gregorio buried himself in an article by Father Birot against the Protes- tants, who were trying to save souls with cheap Bibles and discordant songs. The rumble of a carriage which stopped in front of the house aroused him from his interest- ing reading. He put away the newspaper and went to the window, arriving in time to see the maid, who jumped from the carriage and ran into the porch of the house. The judge went out in search of the umbrella, giving it to the girl to cover her mistresses. The ladies got out with some difficulty, because they did not wish to wet their skirts nor expose more than was strictly necessary, with a modesty so much the more worthy of approbation since nobody, except the judge or the coachman, could see them. The rain had kept them in the dress- STORIES OF COSTA RICA 87 maker's house, where they arrived late. In pass- ing they had stopped to see various friends, in search of fashion plates. As it concerned a thing so important as the costume in which Aurelia. who had just completed her seventeenth year, would make her debut in the approaching official ball which the government was giving on the an- niversary of Independence, it was well to take much thought before making a decision. For this reason, and in spite of the fact that the ladies had passed all the middle of the day in going and coming, nothing was definitely settled, although now they had only to decide on one of the two models that they had set aside, one rose color and the other white. The judge, whom these matters of gew gaws and trinket- interested very little, remarked on the suitableness of dining. < >n hear- ing tin-. Aurelia, who gave promise "f being a od little housewife, went t" the dining room to aid the maid servant in setting the table, and Dona Catalina followed by her husband went to Iter room t<> give him hi- half-daily dram. I "n moved, Don Gregorio drank it withoul the leasl suspicion entering the mind i tremel) lean lady, occupied with the costume of her daughter. If this circumstance had nol intervened, it w almosl certain that the impenitent man. addicted to forbidden dram-, would have taken a m< ' bitter one, for I >• na Catalina was malice incar- nate, .and very acute, which h« tributed n a little toward 1 ithin the lim of the in. .-1 :• : I fidelity. 88 CUENT03 TlfOS After taking away the soup plates the maid put the rest of the dinner upon the tahle; the clas- sic dish of boiled meat and vegetables, a hash with peas, a piece of fried beef and a large dish of rice. Don Gregorio, who had a good appetite, ate heartily of everything, in contrast to his wife, victim of a poor one, who lived only on chayotes* and a glass or two of milk. Neither was the young girl a good eater, showing a preference for the picadillus/f especially for the one of green plan- tain. Like her father and mother, she was rather thin, so that scarcity of flesh seemed a rule in that family. After an interval of silence, the costume of Aurelia was talked of anew, and others that the ladies had seen at the dressmakers were also discussed. Finally the conversation, always turn- ing about the matters of the ball, settled down on the grave subject of the turkey 4 The prospect of not finding a partner for a dance is a thing which everywhere alarms the women, but among us it causes veritable terror. The strange part of it is that they should compare such a disagreeable time to a meal of turkey, a fowl so palatable. The young girl declared she would not go to the ball if she did not have her programme full before- hand. "If it is to eat turkey," she said, "I prefer to stay right at home in bed." "Go away with your foolishness," replied the judge. "These girls nowadays have some very rare ideas." *A vegetable much used in tropical America. t.\ dish of hashed meat and vegetables. tin Costa Rican dances, to eat turkey means to be a wallflower. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 89 "You are right. Aurelia," interrupted Dona Catalina. *'I don't want them to say here after- wards that you haven't moved from your chair all the evening. Moreover it's a sail thing to come out in society eating turkey.'' "Well, what 1 maintain," said the judge again. "is that there is nothing more ridiculous than this absurd preoccupation which demands that the girls dance all night without stopping, even though they may be dead tired or a slipper may be pinching them. It also seems very improper to me to engage dance- a month ahead." "That is all very well.*' replied the lady, "hut until the custom changes one ha- to do like the others. What 1 consider shameful is the conduct of the young men, who go t<> the balls only t<> rat and drink, and what i- worse, t" laugh at the poor girls who are dying of embarrassment, seated against the wall." "That's true." -aid the judge. "In my time the y< iung men v. ere better bred." Dona Catalina meditated ;i while, recalling without doubl the tune- which her husband bad alluded to. Suddenly she raised her head and - asked him : "1 lave win spol en to I >on ( 'iril 1), , n Gregorio fell hi- wrath returning. 'i have already told you that that is impi sible," li«- replied angrily. "Impossible!" exel :d the lady petulantly, "1 don'l .by it is, I >on < lirilo is indebted t-» you for somi greal favoi Whal harm is it to 90 CUENTOS TICOS ask him one that won't cost him anything? My father was right when he said you never would be any good." The judge felt himself grow pale with wrath and was on the point of letting off a broadside at his wife, and even at his defunct father-in-law, whose memory was partic- ularly distasteful to him. The presence of the young girl, and perhaps also the bitter remem- brance that he had of those conjugal encounters, in which he was always the under dog, restrained him. Amelia, respectful, and ignorant of the cause of the trouble, did not dare to interfere be- tween her angry parents. After a painful silence, the judge continued more calmly: "If it concerned only Don Cirilo, who is my friend, I would not say no, but you know already that — " "Very well," interrupted Dona Catalina with a warning nod toward Amelia. The judge be- came silent. Neither of the two wanted the girl to learn about the matter which had not ceased to be a delicate one, as will be seen. Dona Catalina, of a very humble origin, but who had always had great aspirations, hoped that Amelia would reach heights which she herself, daughter of Jose Cor- doba, master carpenter of the Puebla,* had not been able to attain, even though she had climbed up some rounds of the social ladder by means of her marriage with the lawyer Don Gregorio Lopez. However, it was not hidden from the am- bitious lady that now she could climb no higher, *A district in San Jose. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 91 as her husband was not rich, talented, nor of dis- tinguished family. In her daughter's case she imagined that the thing would be much easier, because Amelia, placed in better conditions, would not meet with the same obstacles that had closed the way for her; and. as the girl was pretty and had good manners, she hoped that she would make a good marriage. With this end in view the lady had begun to prepare the ground with much patience and skill. One of the means that she had regarded as mosl efficacious to gain her point, was putting the young lady in the coll< of Our Lady of Zion, so that, together with good instruction and distinguished manners, she might be making friendships advantageous for the future, although the truth was that to date the results were not in proportion to the sacrifices which Dona Catalina had made to keep her daughter in this aristocratic house for four years. The little friends who had been so affectionate in the convent were now each time more reserved with Aurelia. Social distinctions little by little began to raise their barrier- between the daughter of the judge and her companions, better born or richer. I low nianv friendships die in the same way on the thresholds of scholastic halls! Never thi the persevering mamma did nol 1 heart in her undertaking, and in spite of her in tolerant temper. t< ok pains to hide the mortifica- tion which the slighl • red to her daughter caused her. She thought, and with reason, that *.\ tcbool for young ladie* In ll 92 CUENTOS TICOS skill was of more account than force. This same tenacity in her scheme had been the cause of her dispute with Don Gregorio. Very much taken up with the first appearance of her daughter in an official ball, she wanted Aurelia to figure among the very first, dancing with the flower and the cream of the young men. The matter of the first dance to which our women attach so much importance, appeared to Doha Catalina as the most difficult of all the problems that she had to solve on this occasion. She considered it indispensable that the young lady should dance with some one of much pres- tige, so that her initiation into social life might be very brilliant and notable. With this end in view she had reviewed lists of youths who might do for the event, and, after profound meditation, she saw clearly that in the whole city of San Jose there was but one gentleman in whose person all the necessary requirements were united. He was the oldest son of Don Cirilo Vargas, magistrate of the Court of Casacion. Ricardo Vargas was without doubt one of the most distinguished young men of the capital. By birth he belonged to one of the first families of the country; in intellect and learning, to the aristocracy of talent. Still very young, scarcely twenty-six years old, he was already considered one of the best advocates of the Costa Rican bar. A good figure, together with elegant and pleasing manners, served as a setting for these gifts. It was not strange, then, that more than one STORIES OF COST A RICA 93 lovely Joserina* should go to her window when he passed, or should follow him with lingering glances in the Central Park or in the Avenue of the Dames. The person being found, the most delicate point of the problem still remained to be solved. How could she arrange it so that Ricardo Vargas, an aristocrat over whom the most haughty senoritas were jealous, should have the first dance with Aurelia Lopez, a young lady who was poor and not too well connected. After much hesitating. Dona Catalina finally remembered that years ago, at the time when General Guardia was governing the country, her husband had done a very great favor for Don Cirilo Vargas. He. becoming involved in a con- spiracy, found himself a prisoner and on the eve of going oul into exile, when his wife, on the ad- vice of a friend, begged Don Gregorio Lopez, at that time employed as priva cretary to the president, to intercede in favor of her husband. Don Gregorio was supposed to have some influ- ence over the mind of the dictator. Whether he had it or not, the resull of his intervention was very efficacious, because Di n Cirilo nol only re covered his freedom but came out of prison to occupy a public office of importan< • Since this debl of gratitude had been contracted by the magistrate, Dofia Catalina thoughl thai the momenl had arrived for collecting it: and taking advanl ne nighl of the intimacy of *T! ' 94 CUENTOS TICUS the conjugal couch, she explained her plans to the judge. He disapproved of them roundly, saying that the matter was a delicate one and that she must be aware of the fact; that although he did not doubt the good will of Don Cirilo, it was neces- sary to reckon also with the consent of the young lawyer. The judge brought forth many other reasons to dissuade his wife from carrying out her project; but Dona Catalina, always accustomed to hav- ing her own way, heard her husband as one who hears it rain, resolving to wait for a more propi- tious time. But from that night not a day passed that disagreeable words and disputes did not arise. Doiia Catalina persisted obstinately in the affirmative and Don Gregorio in the negative. And thus it was that the ball of the 15th of Sep- tember was becoming an apple of discord in that family. The harassed judge could find no way to escape from the embarrassment which the obstinacy of his wife caused him. Many times he was on the point of making a clean breast of it to the magistrate, but when the critical moment arrived, the thing he was going to say stuck in his throat. Each time the situa- tion grew worse, for as the date of the ball drew nearer the importunity and bad humor of Dona Catalina increased. Aurelia, who usually was very easy going, now had no rest for thinking of the turkey, and could not understand for what STORIES OF COSTA RICA 0,5 reason her mamma had forbidden her to engage the first dance. She herself would have liked well to dance it with Pedro Cervantes, a very attrac- tive young law student, who looked at her a good deal in the park and often stopped at her street corner. Her mamma, however, had taken a great dislike to the youth and did not waste any oppor- tunity to ridicule him, saying that he was a "concho,"* and calling him 'Starf Pedro. ( )n the other hand Don Gregorio undertook his defence. putting him up in the clouds as a well-behaved and industrious student. lie said that the poor fellow was not to blame for being the son of a countryman, and trioreover that there was not the least disgrace in it, on the contrary his merit was all the greater because he owed everything to his own efforts. "Pedro will very soon be a lawyer." he was accustomed to say, "and in Costa Rica the lawvers are good for everything, even to conduct a mass. It is tnu- thai the profession has not made me rich, bul it has always given me enough to eat. Remember whal I say; thai boy will some day be a cabinet minister like Don Fulano and ] )< in Perencejo,": : and be mentioned some well- known natm Nevertheless the weighty arguments of Don Gregorio did not convince the lady who, like the ilful adversary -be was, was very bandy with trifling 01 ( Ine day the fud| asperated by the 1 ■ 96 CUENTOS TICOS sistency of his wife that he should speak to Don Cirilo, exclaimed aggressively: "Why don't you go to Doha Inez and tell her what you want?" Doha Inez was the wife of the magistrate. "/ talk to that stupid bundle of conceit who thinks herself the daughter of the Eternal Father," replied the lady angrily. "I see that you are more stupid every day." And this was the truth, not in regard to the growing stupidity of the judge, but the arrogance of Don Cirilo's wife. Without literally believing that she was directly sprung from the Creator of the universe, Doha Inez had the highest opinion of her lineage and aristocratic position, like a good and legiti- mate daughter of the most noble and loyal city of Cartage* Outside of her relatives and some other families, Carthaginians of course, there did not exist for her other than half breeds and coun- try yokels. Don Gregorio wished that his wife would commend herself to some eood saint. The indomitable tenacity of the lady finally prevailed over the scruples of her husband. On the afternoon of the 14th of September, as he came out of the Palace of Justice in company with the magistrate, he told him, with much halting and many preambles, all about it. Don Cirilo, somewhat surprised, nevertheless took kindly to the petition of his friend, promising to talk to his son immediately, and assuring him that if Ricardo had not already engaged himself he should dance with Aurelia. •The former capital of Costa Rica. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 97 "In case he has done s >. 1 shall send you word before seven o'clock," added the magistrate. Don Gregorio returned to his house so pleased at hav- ing finally fulfilled his contract that he was not averse to confessing that his wife had done right in persisting in her project. That same night, not having received any word from Don Cirilo, when 1 # .. .? - ," /^v -> T iW ■<\ •'*,*• *. I III Rl H 01 I \ -"I I I'M' the family was gathered together for the even- ing chocolate, and the of La Soledad were tolling "Las Anim; the judge announced to his -km ed daughter that Ricardo Vai would dance the firsl number with her at the ball of the nexl <■■. enin) As the morning of the [5th dawned, the 98 CU!- TOS TIC >S reveilles and cannon shots, which announced the glorious anniversary of Independence, began to interrupt the profound slumber of Don Gregorio Lopez, who was sleeping quietly for the first time since the conjugal disturbances began. Doha Catalina, contrary to her custom, awoke in a good humor, since the joy which walked* within her was great. Only Aurelia con- tinued sleeping until seven, because she had lain awake a good part of the night, thinking always of the terrible turkey. The mother and daughter passed all of that day in great preparations for the night. Don Gregorio walked to the street of La Sabana with a friend to see the troops file past as they returned from the review. Only one thing about the ball interested him, — the supper. The judge numbered each of these great festivi- ties by as many formidable attacks of indiges- tion, but the truffled wild turkeys and other dainties displayed last year by the jovial Victor , Aubert of Marseilles, whose epicurean traditions the fastidious Italian, Benedictis, has undertaken to perpetuate, had more weight with him than the fear of the consequences of his intemperance. Early in the evening commenced the thousand tasks of dressing. The whole house was in con- fusion, the wardrobes open, clothing scattered about on the furniture, and doors opened and closed without ceasing. ''May God give me patience!" exclaimed Doha Catalina as she went from one room to another *La alegria que le andaba por dentro. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 99 with a pin cushion and a package of hairpins. "I'm going crazy right now. I don't find any- thing I want in all this disorder." The lady multiplied herself, gave orders to the maid, advice to Aurelia, fetched with her own hands what was wanted, and gave directions to an accommodating and skilful neighbor, who had taken charge of combing the young lady's hair. Spread out on the bed. vaporous and fresli look- ing, was the o istume, the object of so much anxi- ety and solicitude. Aurelia had selected the white dress, against the opinion of her mamma who would have preferred the rose colored. The hair dressing was drawing to a close, and the neighbor seemed very satisfied with her work, laboriously executed by means of the comb, padding and hairpins. A diamond pin of bad taste finished the deforming of a little head thai lacked neither refinement nor grace. Then came the turn of the white of pearls with which tin- neighbor and the mamma rubbed the breast and arm- of the girl. She herself applied cream of cucumber to her face and then a good coating of rice powder with a puff. Smeared in this manner, with her eyelids stiff and her eyelashes white, the poor little girl felt ashamed, but all of th<- cut declared that she was charming. The maid and Ramona, who had left tin- kitchen expressly t" admire their young mistn ere the mosl enthusiastic. The tranquil and satisfied mamma left the daughter in the hands of the neighbor and the IOO CUENTOS TICOS maid, and went to adorn herself also, a task which did not require so great care as the other. Don Gregorio, ready some time ago, clad in an antediluvian dress suit that Rodriguez had made for him in the time of General Guardia, was walking back and forth in the corridor that en- circled the patio. According to tradition, it rained in pitchersful, and already the judge was beginning to ask him- self anxiously if the coach, which he had ordered the night before, would come, when they called him in to see the young lady. To Don Gregorio she seemed too white and too scantily clad, but he pretended that he was delighted. A little while afterwards Dona Catalina entered, modestly at- tired as was becoming in a person of her years whom nobody was going to notice. Soon Doha Paula, a maiden sister of the judge, appeared, sopping wet, for she had not feared to come down in the deluge from the top of the Cuesta de Moras,* to have the satisfaction of putting on her niece a necklace which she had worn to balls when she was young and some ear-rings which had been left her by her mother. With these addi- tions the poor girl finally looked like a doll adorned by infantile hands. The coach arrived a little late. Aided by Don Gregorio, who covered them with an umbrella, the ladies stepped into it, leaving a strong scent of Japanese corelopsis in their wake. They had barely driven away when another 'Blackberry Hill, an elevation in the City of San Jose. STORIES OF COSTA RICA IO3 coach, which came at a gallop, stopped in front of the house. Don Cirilo Vargas got out of it hurriedly. On learning however that those whom he sought were not :here, he could not keep back an oath, and ordered the coachman to go with all speed to the National Palace. As the horses gave a violent pull a tug broke and it had to be mended as best it could. Without doubt it was written that Dona Catalina was not to have things as she had planned. A series of ordinary circum- stances, although impossible to foresee, had com- bined to upset the plans so nicely laid by the astute lady. Thus Fate is accustomed to play with the most foreseeing mortals. What had taken place was as follows: After the painful confidence which the judge had made to him on the afternoon of the 14th, Don Cirilo Vargas learned from his daughter Mercedes when be reached home that Ricardo had started for Cartago en route for Orosi, where he had been called by an important business matter, in which one of his clients was i r ted, but that he ought certainly t" return on the afternoon of the 15th. The magistrate then inquired what dance- he had 1 I for the hah. ami had the tisfaction "t" learning that he had nol promised the firsl "tic. b< like a good ladies' man he on ' lirifo did nol think re aboul the matter nor did he -end word to 104 CUENTOS TICOS the judge's house. And here was where the skein began to get tangled, because Ricardo Var- gas, anxious to finish at once the business which had taken him to Orosi, had to prolong his stay more than he had intended, and much as he urged his horse he could not reach Cartago in time for the last train in the afternoon. What could he do in this dilemma? In fact, there were only two courses open to him : to continue on horseback or to spend the night in Cartago. Both were extremely disagreeable, because if giving up the ball was hard, neither was the prospect of two hours on a sorry beast in the rain very allur- ing. The lawyer chose the latter course after a moment of indecision. Used up as he was by his journey from Orosi to Cartago, he decided to dine and rest a while in that city no matter if he arrived in San Jose a little late, since he had no engagements for the first part of the ball. When he had thus solved the difficulty he went in search of a friend to dine with him at the inn; which they did at their ease. At the very moment that he was mounting his horse it occurred to him that it would be well to let them know at home what had happened; his friend therefore promised to send a telegram. It was only at the last minute, remembering the promise he had made to Don Gregorio, that the magistrate, uneasy on account of the absence of his son, inquired as to his whereabouts, and Dona Inez showed him the telegram which she had received from Cartago. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 105 Don Cirilo, upset by this unforeseen mishap, sent out hurriedly for a coach and went on the gallop to the house of his friend, to tell him what had happened and to make his excuses. When Aurelia entered the great courtyard of the National Palace, converted for the occasion at the cost of a deal of money into an immense ball room, she felt very much disturbed. Hun- dreds of electric lamps radiated their clear light upon the multitude of invited ones, making vi>ible with implacable discourtesy the artifices and the rouge of the ladies. Upon the canvas, sprinkled with paper spangles, which covered the floor, the black costumes of the men who were moving eagerly about with programmes and pencils in hand, engaging a waltz or a mazurka, were seen in bold relief. In the first row of chairs was the swarm of marriageable young ladies dressed in light o>l among which white predominated, tin- fortunate one-- whispering and laughing behind their flut- tering fan-, the presumptive victims of 'be tur- with anxiety. Ah, how cruel are thi men who L r <> to balls and do nol dance! [f thi knew the anguish "f the unhappy maiden- who see their ndemned I in their before the ironical glan ; friends and un known pi ' ! not hesitate 1<> run instantly to pul an end t<> such horrible torment. Pi or little Aui el u> think that -be had only four names written on her programme. \\ that mon ry thi 106 CUENTOS TICOS had not remained firm in her first resolution of not coming to the ball, at least if she were not well protected against a possible disappointment. "Why did 1 come, Dios mio! Why did I come!" she murmured in anguish, while a cold perspiration ran along her back at the idea that she was observed, that everyone knew that she was going to eat turkey. Her ears buzzed. What most augmented her confusion were the spectators in the galleries of the first floor, '''here, in ambush, were the worst gossipers of San Jose and the most dangerous viperine tongues. What would they not say ! Each time that a young man drew near, desirous of putting his name on the programme of one of her neighbors, it seemed like an offence to her, poor disdained one. So ex- cited were her nerves that the martial strains of the national hymn, which started up suddenly, announcing the arrival of the President, made her jump. A few minutes afterwards the opening march commenced. And Ricardo Vargas did not appear! Doha Catalina, seated behind her daughter, was in despair, turning about and scrutinizing the corners of the enormous salon, while Don Gregorio, by her orders, minutely searched the whole Palace. Poor Amelia's color came and went, and she tried to hide behind her fan when any of her former companions of Our Lady of Zion passed in front, looking, with glances half impertinent and half pitying, at her seated there in her chair. STORIES OF COSTA RICA IO7 The orchestra struck up the music for the quadrille of honor and the sets were already be- ginning to be formed, when Don Cirilo arrived quite out of breath, waving the telegram from Ricardo. The wife of the judge felt as though the building were falling upon her. Then her daughter not only would not dance with the most elegant gentleman of San Jose, but was to com- mence eating turkey at the very first dance! Dios Santo! What was she to do! In that moment of supreme anguish there presented itself to the unhappy ladies, like a stray plank to a shipwrecked seaman, salvation in the form of a young man of pleasant and agreeable aspect. It was Pedro Cervantes, who with much bash fulness came to beg the honor of dancing with the Sefiorita Aurelia. The young girl, mad with joy. begged the permission of her mamma with a glance, and she, bowing her head to the power of destiny, assented with resignation. "What do you think of the ball. Dona Cata- lina?" one of her lady acquaintances asked her a little while afterward "Frankly, it doesn'1 seem t<> me much "i" an affair." answered the one who was questioned. .After a pause she ."Med. "'Mm ,- Palace balls. nowadays aren't what they used t" bi You remember those thai Don Tomas Guardia u~a\ t<> give. Those indeed were magnificent. I n't forgel "in- when they danced all over the Presidential Palai <• with (V. playii different piece ; and I still seem to see the general IOS CUENTOS TICOS in his uniform all covered with gold braid, paying court to the ladies and serving them in person. Believe me, there won't be another president like Don Tomas." "And where do you place that ball?" exclaimed another lady joining in the conversation, "which a Peruvian minister gave in which they had a fountain of Florida water?" "That was also very fine," replied Doha Cata- lina. "Say what you please, in those times one used to see very fine affairs, and society was not so mixed up as it is now. I'm almost ashamed to say it, but now they don't respect anybody or anything, and the worst scandals are in the best families. They treat us old people like trash. You will see that all this evening there won't be any- body who'll offer to escort us even for a glass of water. For that reason I'm better pleased to have my daughter dance with modest and honorable young men, like Pedro Cervantes, so that she mayn't be in danger of hearing the things those abandoned ones, who know -only how to gamble, drink and seduce women, are in the habit of say- ing to young ladies. I am frank, I prefer that my daughter work dressing images for the •churches, rather than see her married to some vagabond of good family, one of those who pass their lives in the club and in the Grand Cafe." Doha Catalina kept on quite a while in this key, smarting as she was from the deep wound to her self-esteem which the slight of Ricardo Var- gas had caused her, because she did not in the STORIES OF COSTA RK'A IOO, least believe that it was all the result of an acci- dent. When the dance ended, Amelia and Pedro re- turned to the place where they had left the offended lady. The v face of the law student shone with great joy. since what was happening seemed like a dream to him. The night before the ball he did not know that he would have the good fortune to see his lady-love at all, even at a dis- tance and dancing with another; for in spite of the freedom with which the invitations to the Palace ball were given out, he had not yet been able to obtain his, which he finally got by means of a friendly fellow-student. And now he was able not only to see her. ad- mire her close at hand, but also take her in his arms, dance with her. breath the perfume of her chestnut hair — a veritablt m! With the aid of the law student's friends, Amelia'- empty dance-card wa n covered with name-. In the face of such repeated and opportune services, tin- mamma felt that her prejudio linsl the young man wa. beginning lisappear, t" such an extent that when the young lady, stammering and timid, said that Pedro 1 ' permission i" take -upper with her. she granted it without great difficulty. 1 )• »n ' lid not which the dancing with • !ervantes, among the multitude of couples that fill* I him. In spite i if all the suppositions that occurred to him, hi IIO CUENTOS TICOS not succeed in finding a plausible explanation for that strange happening, considering the antipathy with which the law student inspired Doha Cata- lina. What could it be? An act of insurrection on the part of Aurelia! No. That was not pos- sible, because a girl so submissive, of such a sweet disposition, was incapable of making" such a scan- dal. But then, what was it that was going on? And the judge, very much perplexed, went to his wife to have her give him the key to the enigma. In a few words she informed him of what had happened. "Here is the telegram that that old pastry cook, Don Cirilo, has brought me," she added giving him the piece of blue paper. Don (iregorio seemed somewhat cut up over the calamity, but he thought it his duty to declare that he was convinced of the loyalty and good faith of the Vargas family. "I don't want you to talk to me any more of those 'sinverguenzas,'* exclaimed the lady, re- calling in that moment of wrath the vocabulary of her father, the master carpenter. In the meanwhile Aurelia was feeling per- fectly ha] py, as the result of the very same cir- cumstances which were making Doha Catalina froth at the mouth. A true copy of her father, she had managed to be untainted by the social aspirations of the lady, her mother. For this reason the absence of Ricardo Vargas annoyed her only at the moment when she was in danger of eating turkey, the trend of her thoughts •Literally "without shame." In Spanish it is a very hard name to apply to a person. STORIES OF COSTA RICA III changing from the instant when Pedro Cer- vantes had arrived, like a rescuing paladin, to save her from that nightmare. Everything that before seemed adverse and threatening n< w seemed favorable and smiling. Even the busy- bodies in the galleries, occupied in flaying every living being, appeared to her as good and chari- table ladies. After the first dance, she had two more with Pedro, who was also very bashful, and said noth- ing to her. But after supper, when the two w< seated together in the 1 fall of Congress, under the >-trait of Don Jose Rafael de Gallegos, and the young man was warmed by the champagne and the feminine aroma- which floated in the atmi phere, he made hold to reveal to her what she al- ready knew very well, that he loved her. The girl grew rosy red in spite of the rice powder and the white of pear 1 -; and after making an honoral resistance i' 1 the sweel importunity of the enam- oured student, she murmured her assent in a very low tone, lowei and apparently being very tranquil, but in her 1 her little heart was fluttering like a wild bird that has jusl been • d. A year and a half afterwards Hon 1 lie/ and I I atalina sent OUl invitatr the coming marri Kurelia b 1 the lawyer I »■ n I 'edn UN HEROE. (a hero.) WE all knew, by the suggestive nickname of Cususa,* a poor shoemaker, whose small blue eyes were hidden under thick gray eyebrows, which, when he had shaved himself, produced the comical impression that his mustaches had ascended to his forehead; but, as he was not accustomed to coming in contact often with the barber, he was usually seen with his face covered with stiff hair that gave him an aspect of ferocity, tempered by the intense sweetness of. his glance. The distinguishing characteristic of the shoemaker was his merriness, a wild, irresistibly catching merriness. If one, in passing some tavern heard shouts, laughter, music, and the sound of dancing, he did not need to inquire the cause. Only Cususa was. capable of converting the inveterate sadness of the guaro drinkers into joy. lie detested quarrels and was always ready to interfere in order to stop them, silencing by the force of good-humor the endless disputes between the drunkards. But •Brandy. 112 STORIES OF COSTA RICA 113 if the dissensions continued and grew into a fight, the festive shoemaker changed his argu- ments and with a couple of well-directed blows re-established order, for he was a powerful man, and brave to rashness. They used to tell, among many other things, of an affair with a much feared desperado who had just been released from the prison of San Lucas. Cususa was dancing in a wine-shop to the music of a guitar, when the rascal, irritated doubtless by the merry uproar which the good fellow was making, pulled out a dagger and cut the strings of the instrument. There was a spark in the eves of the shoemaker. With one leap he was at the side of the aggres- sor, and gripping him by the wrist with terrible force, he bent it back until he made him let go of the dagger. Then, looking him straight in the eyes with an expression of great disdain, he spit in his face, crying repeatedly: "Assassin! Cow- ard!" The desperado abandoned tin- field, with many threats, but he was never seen again in the places which Cususa frequented. The shoemaker's drunkenness was nut con- tinuous, as one mighl suppo Two or three week- used to pass without hi- taking ;i single glass, while In- worked industriously in his shop, for he had plenty <>f customers and aside from his fondness for tin- bottle was a model workman. [»ut once the thir-t for brandy and the longing for dancing had come upon him. good-bye t" awls and • for there was no "tie who could keep him in the hi lUSC H4 CUENTOS TICOS The difficulty was even greater when the civic festivals came, with their three days of bull fights and masquerading. Scarcely did he hear the first fire-cracker, when he would station him- self in the street and would not return until he came home on a stretcher after the inevitable upset from the horns of some bull from Guana- caste. Other occasions for imbibing were the A MILITARY REVIEW military ceremonies. Processions, reviews, funer- als, every act in which troops preceded by a band figured produced an irresistible itching for celebrating. He used to pass all Holy Week doing penance in the Vineyards of the Lord. The libations commenced with Palm Sunday, very early in the morning, so that he could be present at the complicated ceremonies of the go- r o c c/i t 5: O Q H •/. ■/. s STORIES OF COSTA RICA 11/ ing out of the flag. Then he used to follow the procession at the side of the music, marking time, indifferent to everything but the drums, cornets and words of command. In his passion for military pomp he noticed nothing else, neither the image ridiculously bedecked, riding on a mule, nor the improvised avenues of bamboos whieh adorned the streets with their green feather-like plumes, nor even the groups of handsome country girls in their Sunday attire carrying blessed palm branches in their hands. When the procession was over and the Lord of Triumph, seated in an arm-chair and wear- ing a violet colored hat, was reposing in an im- provised garden of "uruca" branches, Cususa used to return behind the soldiers, leaping to the tune of a lively two Step, until he left them at the barrack-. The carousal continued afterwards in the wine -In i]). in company with numerous para- sites wh" took advantage of his generous nature. with sonorous shouts of "Viva Costa Rica!" and much talk about the campaign againsl the tili- buj ti While hi- mi ither lived, ;i little i ild woman, blind from cataracts, whom he cared for with greal solicitude, the intemperance of the shoemaker was confined within certain limit-: but when he found himself alone in the world, for relatii had none, the days of t ew m< frequent. often he was to he prawled oul in the taverns, or sleeping in the streel in the beneficenl Il8 CUENTOS TICOS shade of some tree. Soon the poor man became the object of ridicule and gibes from unkind per- sons, and especially from the boys who at the time were attending school. With the thoughtless cruelty of childhood, we used to take delight in tormenting poor Cususa, when on account of too much liquor he was un- able to defend himself as he used to do in the good times when he dealt those famous blows which . • • • • inspired respect and consideration. I remember how, on coming out of the class room one afternoon, a few of us little rascals came upon the shoemaker lying, helpless, close to an adobe wall. To see him and to feel ourselves thrill with joy was all one. Now we had before us the prospect of a good bit of diversion. After a consultation, in which we discussed the means of torment which were to be adopted for that day, the idea of painting him predominated. A box of blacking appeared, from nobody knew where, and the chief of the party took charge of the work. Soon Cususa was transformed into a guy, and at each new stroke of the artist's fancy we almost burst ourselves with laughing. A vigorous and manly voice behind us made us turn with frightened faces, to find ourselves face to face with Captain Ramirez, an elderly retired officer, a veteran of the National War.* With gentle severity he reprimanded us for what we had just done, and to exhort us not to torment *The war against the filibuster Walker. Costa Rica took the most prominent part in this war, and it is there regarded as a kind of Heroic Age. Walker was defeated by the Costa Ricans. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 121 again the unfortunate man he told us the his- tory, which I am going to transcribe faithfully. When Don Juanito Mora declared war against the filibuster Walker, who had taken possession of Nicaragua, Joaquin Garcia, or Cususa as they call him now, was only eighteen years old. and. being the only son of a widowed mother, was ex- empt from going to the war. Nevertheless the boy was set on going with his companions, and as he could not succeed in getting into the ranks, he evaded the vigilance of his mother one night, and walking without rest went to join the army on the march for the Northern frontier. I found him one morning, half dead from hunger and fatigue, and recognizing him, for we were neighbors, I succeeded in getting him into the column of the vanguard of which I formed a part. A few days afterward we surprised the enemy in Santa Rosa, where our flag received its baptism of glory. In vain the Yankees tried to withstand the thrusl of our bayonets; they could nol n •■ and "ii that day we bad the unspeakable satis- faction of seeing the bully, Schlessinger, who commanded them, fleeing like a poltroon. The victory, it is true, o I us dr.-n-. We losl there many brave men. and the wounded covered the ground. Among those mosl dangerously wounded was found poor Joaquin, with hi piei'i ed by a rifle ball. 122 CUENTOS TICOS At this point the Captain interrupted his nar- rative, and, opening the shoemaker's shirt, he showed us a deep scar in the region of the right lung. After a pause he proceeded: This had taken place on the 30th day of March, 1856. On the nth of April following I also fell wounded, in the streets of Rivas. Here in his turn Walker surprised us, but did not succeed in conquering us. He had rather to retire, abandon- ing his wounded. I returned to Liberia in a ter- rible condition. There I found Joaquin also in the military hospital. By a rare chance we both escaped the epidemic of cholera, which broke out in the army, so weakened by the hot climate of Nicaragua and the terrible bloodshed of the battle of Rivas. We convalesced together in Puntare- nas, where I had some relatives who took care of us as well as one could wish. Some months after- ward, when there was talk of a new invasion of Nicaragua, we both requested to be taken back into the army in the field. The only thing we could gain was permission to be enrolled in the garri- son of Puntarenas. On the second of November, our army which had been mobilized in Liberia, again set out on the march for the frontier under the command of General Canas. Joaquin and I were inconsolable, on account of our inability to go with it, when an unhoped for opportunity of returning to the campaign presented itself to us. The brigantine "Eleventh of April," so named in memory of the heroic fight of Rivas, was about to sail from the port, armed for war, to co-operate STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 23 in the hostilities, and to put an end to the depreda- tions of the filibuster bark Granada. At the last hour there were some losses in the crew so that we succeeded in enlisting on her. We set sail on the eleventh of November, carrying- an abun- dance of provisions, arms, ammunition and money for the army. The brigantine bad for de- fence four brass cannon. Her captain was Don Antonio Vallerriestra, a young officer of the Peruvian navy, who bad placed bis sword at the service of our cause. From the time we set sail the sea was very tempestuous and the winds were contrary, so much so that we spent eleven days in navigating the short distance between Puntai nas and San Juan del Sur. Almost all of us were afl r the firsl time, and we suffered greatly from seasickness; bul in spite of tlii 1 -. and the battering of the storms which shook the vessel to her keel, we did not allow ourselves to be discour- aged a -ingle instant, for we bad faith in our destiny and truly believed ourselves invincible. Scarcely did that stormy sea give us a short r< pite, when good-humor again appeared aboard the brigantine. and officers and soldiers wi rivals in warlike enthusiasm. Between rain squalls We managed to ami out . telling playing cards, or chaf fing each other. Some al •■ u ed to sing the sad and monotonou our country, which us a homesick longing for il iffee planl tions and swift running rivers. Stirred by the of the rhythm we would silently call n|> 1^4 CUENTOS TICOS visions of the distant fatherland; but each time that this happened a shrill and familiar cry would be heard, the cry of our mountains which no Costa Rican can hear without emotion, and Joaquin would break out into a rollicking clog- dance, accompanied by ridiculous and character- istic exclamations which instantly dispelled the melancholy of our thoughts. We all adored him for his goodness of charac- ter and his constant jovialness. The gallantry of his conduct at Santa Rosa and the almost mortal wound he had received there, were equally potent means of gaining the sympathy and affection of all. At other times, seated in a circle on deck, we talked of the war, and my comrades were never weary of making me repeat the story of the battles of Santa Rosa and Rivas, and particularly the details of the glorious death of Juan Santa Maria, the drummer boy of Alajuela, who had formerly been a sacristan.* With the greatest at- tention they listened to my words, full of ad- miration for the lad marching serenely to certain death. I told them how he had returned the first time safe and sound to our ranks, when in a storm of bullets he had set fire to the ranch house which served the enemy as a fort; the sub- lime audacity of the hero trying again the hazard- ous undertaking, as the enemy had succeeded in putting out the fire; how he returned a second time unscathed to the walls of the house and *He was the hero of the battle of Santa Rosa, setting fire^ at the ccst of his own life, to the ranch house in which Walker's men had taken their stand. There is a bronze statue of him in the town of Alajuela. '» STORIES OF COSTA RICA I_>5 again sprinkled them with petroleum and ap- plied the torch which he carried in his right hand; the despairing cry which broke from our lips on seeing his avenging arm fall helpless, broken by the well-aimed bullet of a Yankee; then the indescribable enthusiasm, the great pride, which the sight aroused in us of the drummer boy picking up the torch again, brandishing it with his unhurt arm, until the destroying flames arose again; finally the hero's fall riddled with bullets at the foot of the fire kindled by his valiant hand. "That was a man! Viva Costa Rica !" Joaquin invariably exclaimed, as the narrative was fin- ished; and all, stirred by the sincerity of his enthusiasm would join in the shout. "Viva Costa Rica!" we would answer, and the noise of our voices was lost in the roaring of the waves. The "Eleventh of April," buffeted by the storms, began to leak considerably and we had to take to the pumps. In this condition we arrived in front of the bay of San Juan del Sur. on the afternoon of November 22nd. Captain Valler- riestra inspected the coast carefully with a telc- ope, then we saw him conferring with the military commanders. When the council was over lie ordered the bow turned toward the shore. Nol much time passed before we sighted a sail, which came oul from the piit his handkerchief, washed the drunkard*- face carefully. When it was som what cleaner, he shook him vi| ly, shouting in his ear: "Joaquin! Joaquin!" On hearing the -.nice of hi- old time superior the drunkard gave ;i atari and heavily opening In i i murmured, 132 CUENTOS TICOS with thickened tongue: "Present, my captain." With a great effort the veteran made him get up, and giving him his arm led him, staggering, away. Childish minds are very impressionable and the tale of the captain sank deep into ours. From that day Cususa took on colossal porportions for us, and we began to look on him as almost a leg- endary being, capable of the greatest deeds of heroism. We never again tormented him, we rather undertook to defend him with great zeal whenever any other little rascals tried to molest him. A few months after the veteran's intervention in favor of the shoemaker, we were coming out of school one afternoon, when we met a modest funeral. Four men were carrying the cheap coffin and behind them marched Captain Ramirez, with red eyes. Our noisy shouts made him turn his head and look at us a moment. He recognized us, and doubtless remembering the tale he had told us, exclaimed in a sorrowful voice: "It is he, — Joaquin!" We looked at each other, and with tacit agreement born spontaneously of one of those generous impulses so common to ytfuth, we added ourselves to the cortege of the hero. UN SANTO MILAGROSO. (a miraculous SAINT.) IN a short time the fame of a certain miraculous image of San Jeronimo, of which extra- ordinary things, one might say miracles, were related, had spread through a part of the province of Alajuela. The residents of San Pedro de la Calahaza and of La Sabanilla showed especial en- thusiasm, and the reputation of the saint already extended to the very capital of the province, where, to tell the truth, it met with considerable skepticism; hut it must not be forgotten that the people of Alajuela are hardened unbelievers. Whether the fellow citizens of J nan Santa Maria were righl or nol in showing their mil lief in re-pert to San Jeronimo, it is certain that now there was nol a rosary, a candle burned in honor of a saint, nor any other festival at which one would nol find the sainted image present. Everybody disputed for the notable honor oi en tertaining it. even though it were nol more than a few hours. It- frequenl journeys were trium- phal, in the midst of a brilliant following, the 13.1 134 CUENTOS TICOS splendor of which the music, sky-rockets and fire- crackers did not diminish. At first sight the image did not present any marked peculiarity. It was a crude sculpture of wood, painted and varnished, of little more than a metre in height. The saint, dressed in an ordinary habit, trimmed with silver braid, was far from having the appearance of an ascetic; he rather resembled one of those cor- pulent, incontinent monks whom the Catalonian lithographs have made familiar. But this detail, which only some critical and evil-disposed per- sons of the city of Alajuela had noticed, did not affect in the least the devotion of his adorers, who never tired of making festivals in his honor, nor of kissing his feet. The peregrinations of San Jeronimo finally at- tracted the attention of the authorities and even caused them alarm; but not on account of the manifestations of gross fanaticism which the image called forth from the country people, as in that matter there is always much tolerance. What worried the provincial authorities was something more serious; it was the increasing number of disorders and quarrels which arose on the passing of the saint, who left behind him a trail of blood. Any festival where he was present was sure to have a bad ending; with machete strokes and dagger thrusts almost always. In the criminal court several trials for homicide were in progress; the wounded were numerous, the bruised ones legion. The governor then resolved to take rigorous measures, ordering the jefes STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 35 politicos* and the other subordinate officials to arrest San Jeronimo by all means and without loss of time; but their zeal was in vain. The saint disappeared like smoke after each one of his jour- neys, to reappear after some days, now in one place, now in another, when he was least expected. The disorders, the drunkenness and the machete strokes continued. Furious on account of all this, the governor did not cease from telegraphing the subordinate authorities to stimulate their zeal, and they now had no rest from their search for San Jeronimo. Such was the situation when Pedro Villalta, a corporal of the customs guard, just as he was preparing to set out on a campaign with his fel- low guards one afternoon, said to the governor: "Don't yon worry, Senor; I intend to bring yon that rascally little saint." On hearing this, the harassed official saw the heavens opening and was on the point of em- bracing Pedro Villalta; for the corporal was an old dog and most sagacious. That very night the governor announced, in the club which he fre- quented, thai the capture of the saint was about to take place, a statement that was received with much incredulity, provoking many jokes and much chaff. "This San Jeronimo doesn't exist," declared Doctor Pradera. "If is a yarn of the San Pedro people to put yon on the run." Tin • rnor, somewhat nettled, replied: "You may laugh and say what you please, but I invite •An officer tomewbai similar to a mayor <•( i town. I36 CUENTOS TICOS you all to pay a visit to the saint in the police barracks." "Then I'll bet you a supper that you won't," exclaimed the commandant of the plaza, merrily. "Accepted," said the governor. While the chief authority of the province was giving- unmistakable proofs of his confidence in the ability of Pedro Villalta, that veteran and his comrades were riding silently along the high road to Puntarenas. They had ostentatiously taken that direction on setting out from Alajuela at night-fall, but when they had gone about half the distance to the little village of San Jose* the corporal reined in his horse and gave the order to turn back. The guards accustomed to these ma- noeuvres, obeyed without grumbling. In return- ing they kept away from the city, following deserted lanes and byways, and making a circuit, finally arrived at the river of La Maravilla. Once on the other side of the bridge, the corporal said : "Now to La Sabanilla!" After riding some dis- tance, Juan Rodriguez, a frank and good-natured Hercules, asked a question : "Corporal, if we are going to La Sabanilla, why have we made this big circuit?" Some laughter was heard, but Villalta, who liked Juan Rodriguez for his staunchness and courage, kindly explained to him that their de- tour was made so that the contraband liquor- *A small village bearing the same name as the Capital of Costa Rica, a few miles west of Alajuela. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 139 makers might not be advised of the arrival of the guard. Juan, who was a new recruit, felt himself filled with admiration at the astuteness of his chief. "Those people have spies and friends every- where," continued Villalta. "But with me they get fooled, for I know all their tricks. This time I expect to bring in the still of the Arias." On hearing this name the guards pricked up their ears. The Arias were no less than the most feared contrabandists of the whole country. Of the three brothers, Jose, Ramon and Antonio, one could not tell which was the worst. They had all made themselves famous by committing unheard of crimes and by giving proofs of their reckless courage in their encounters with the customs guard and in the numberless affrays which they stirred up wherever they went. There were those who said that more than a dozen men, guards and others, had gone to their eternal sleep on their account. In spite of so many atrocities, nobody was able to lay hands on them, and the three brothers continued tranquilly in their profit- able industry, which was not only the distilling of brandy in an inaccessible ravine of La Sabanilla, but also th<- smuggling of great quantities of cog- nac, revolvers and ammunition, passing the pack- ages through the very beards of the customs guanl-, on the San Carlos.* •\ river in the i part "f Coata Rica near tbc Niearaguaa boundary. I4O CUENTOS TICOS "Who are these Arias?" asked Juan Rodriguez again. "The Arias are the worst bandits in Costa Rica. May God save you from ever meeting them," replied one of the guards. "I'm not afraid of anybody," replied the good- natured Hercules, simply. "I like that, Juan," said the corporal, who knew the courage of his subordinate. "But with the Arias it is not enough to be very brave and strong; one has also to be very quick on the trig- ger, for they are worse than the Old Nick him- self." Amusing themselves with this kind of talk, they reached Itiquis about nine o'clock in the evening. The corporal, who brought up the rear with Juan Rodriguez, heard the hoof-beats of a horse that seemed to be overtaking them and which was soon abreast of the party. Villalta accosted the horseman, whose presence was felt, but whom it was impossible to distinguish, such was the darkness of the night. "Where are you going, my friend?" "I'm going to La Sabanilla; and you?" "We are going just a little beyond here." "What a pity! We ought to ride together to the vela* of 'Nor Juan Carvajal." "Then 'ftor Juan has a vela on for to-night?" "Yes, and they say it's going to be very fine. Good night, sefiores," added the horseman, start- ing on. 'Celebration in honor of a saint. STORIES OF COSTA RICA I-J.I "May God take you safely, friend," replied Villalta. When the stranger had gone he added between his teeth : "To-night we're going to catch some- thing. That old dolt of a Juan Carvajal isn't the first fox that's tried to fool me." The "vela" n\ 'ftor* Juan Carvajal was very fine, as were all the festivals celebrated in his house, for besides being rich he was fond of dis- play; that night, however, he wished to outdo even himself in honor of San Jeronimo, who was resplendent upon an improvised altar, adorned with long wax candles and artificial flowers. At night-fall, they had commenced to set off fire- crackers in the corridor of the house, and out- le. the sky-rockets wenl up with a great rush, tracing a line of red gold in the sky and finally bursting high above with a sharp noise which reverberated through valleys and mountains, pro- claiming for leagues around the glory of San Jeronimo and the splendor of his festival. When the prayers, which were long, had been said, the ball commenced with a mazurka, played by a weird kind of an orchestra, composed "!' a trombone, a clarionette ami a sackbut, which made one of th< >se n nee heard can never be forgotten. Not less than twenty coupli were dancing in the large room, which v. decorated with branches of "uruca" and plan- traction of by ti« r countrj 142 CUENTOS T1COS tain leaves in the doors and windows. In the adjoining room, upon a table covered with a spotless cloth, was a great quantity of crackers, rosquetes,* quesadillas, and sweet bread, not to mention two large trays full of biscuits and meat pies. While the young people were dancing, the older ones, who had prayed enough to satisfy their consciences, began to satisfy their stomachs with various delicacies and an accompaniment of coffee and chocolate. Many of them had made a regular day's journey to come from their homes to that of '5Jor Juan, situated in a thinly in- habited district at considerable distance from any populated place; the women in oxcarts, the men on horseback or on foot. When the mazurka was ended, 'Na Dominga, the wife of 'Ror Juan, circulated about with a small tray loaded with white paper cigarettes, and the dancers of both sexes began to smoke. Im- mediately afterwards an extraordinary ceremony commenced. "Sefiores," said the master of the house, "let us adore the saint." Suiting the deed to the word, he went up to the image and prostrating himself before it, kissed its feet for a long time. All the men, one after another, did the same. The women showed themselves much less devout and there were only four or five who kissed the feet of San Jeronimo. A waltz followed the mazurka, and after that •Sweet cakes much Hkcu by the Costa Ricans. STORIES OF COSTA RICA I43 came a second mazurka, the dances alternating with an equal number of adorations of the saint; and, an unheard of thing! the men began to get tipsy without drinking, for in all the house there were scarcely three bottles of diluted "Guaro"* for the women. Among the women present four or five had more than their share of good looks, but none of them could rival Maria Carvajal, the niece of '5Jor Juan. One could not find a more beautiful girl in all La Sabanilla, nor in San Pedro. Dressed in a l<>w-necked camisaf covered with spangles, and a blue woolen skirt trimmed with braid, she was as fresh and dainty as a peach. All the young men present were hovering about her like bees around a flower, but hardly any of them succeeded in drawing very near, because the sweetheart of the girl was there beside her, a jealous man and of "few fleas. "% who permitted her to dance only with his intimate friends, keep- ing her for himself most of the time. For the fourth time he was dancing with her to the tune of an awful composition, in the midst of which one could recognize bits of a Strauss waltz, when of a sudden the music ceased with a sad wail from the clarionette. "Halt with the dancing," cried an individual, • tnding with an insolent air in one cud of the room. His right hand grasped the clarioriette, which he had jusl snatched from the astonished •Rranrly made from nufrar cane. ■>[.<•• ' garment worn t>y women of the Peon ' im. JA slang expression meaning ihorl tempei 144 CUENTOS TICOS musician. The new-comer, who seemed to be about twenty-seven years old, was a tall, robust young fellow, and would have been handsome had his face not been disfigured by the deep scar of a terrible machete stroke. His eyes, of an in- definite color, looked about with disquieting insolence. He wore a short riding jacket and had a red silk handkerchief knotted about his neck. Somebody pronounced his name: "Jose Arias," while he, quite calmly, was surveying all the women. He soon came to a decision, returned the clarionette to the terrified musician, went straight to Maria Carvajal, and, pushing aside her sweetheart without any preamble, embraced the girl with his sinewy arms and shouted : "Now the music, bandmaster!" The musicians did not wait for a second order and began to play with ill-directed zeal, while the terrible contrabandist and Maria Carvajal circled about in the middle of the room, which became deserted while one could say amen. The women crossed themselves and called on their patron saints. The men, burning with wrath, went in search of their machetes. The presence of Jose Arias at the "vela" was entirely casual, as no inhabitant of that region would have cared to have such a guest in his house for many reasons; one of them, because when Jose Arias took it into his head to carry off a girl on the crupper of his horse, he carried her, and there was no help for it. That night he was passing that way with a STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 45 comrade in adventures, when he heard the music and saw the lights of the "vela." His first idea was to ride in on horseback, as he was in the habit of doing in these affairs; but as he was not in a hurry, he thought it was better to act decently, limit himself to one dance with the prettiest girl, and then continue his journey. Having taken this peaceful resolution, he told his companion to wait for him a moment, dis- mounted, took off his spurs and as he was not intending to start a brawl, hung them on the pommel of his saddle, together with the long, cross-hilted machete which he unfastened from his belt. We have already seen what Jose Arias considered good behavior. His fierce and half- savage nature did not recognize any formalities, and he knew only how to act on the impulse of his desires and caprices. Tims it was that he did not understand the extent of his aggressive act and was surprised to see several men enter with unsheathed machetes. "Ah, you coyotes!" he shouted, letting go of the girl wlin was trembling with fear. "Now you'll see who Jose Arias is." With tlie quick decision of a man who feels no fear, he ca-t a glance aboul in search of a weapon with which t" defend himself. Seeing nothing better lie darted t" the altar, and pulled off the image with one jerk. San Jeronimo \\ terribly heavy, but the contrabandist, who was exceptionally strong, raised it with both hand-. and without waiting for hi- adversaries, started I46 CUENTOS TICOS forward to attack them. These now hesitated in their assault, all except the sweetheart of Maria Carvajal, who aimed a blow at him that fell like an axe-stroke upon the head of the saint. "The Guards! The Guards!" shouted several voices from outside. As if by magic, the enemies of the contra- bandist slipped away. At that moment Juan Rodriguez entered, revolver in hand; but he scarcely had time to say "Surrender," when the poor fellow fell with his head battered by a tre- mendous saint-stroke. With the agility of a deer Jose Arias passed between the surprised guards. A moment afterwards, he was galloping away saluted by the shots that Villalta and his men fired after him; and as some of them wanted to follow him to avenge Juan Rodriguez, the cor- poral, who knew what kind of horses the bandit rode, said tersely : "There's no use, boys. Let us stay here, for a bird in the hand is worth more than a hundred flying." And what a fat bird the guards had trapped! Nothing less than the elusive San Jeronimo, who lay at full length upon poor Juan Rodriguez, whose companions helped him to get up. The corporal became absorbed in examining the saint. Suddenly he gave a shout of joy. "Now I see the trick! Now I see the trick!" he exclaimed, at the same time moving an in- genious mechanism, concealed in one of the toes on the left foot of the image, and from which a STORIES OF COSTA RICA I47 little stream of contraband brandy spurted forth. San Jeronimo was bleeding "Guaro." Pedro Villalta, more pleased than if he had dis- covered the Americas, raised the image and putting it again upon the altar said to his wonder- struck companions : "Boys, let us adore the saint," and in order to set the example he kissed with devotion the foot of the blessed one. On the following night, while San Jeronimo, with his head broken, lay in his prison, the governor of Alajuela and his friends supped mer- rily, invited by the commandant of the plaza, who had lost his bet. LA POLITICA. (politics.) BY the dying light of a tallow candle, stuck in a bottle, Evaristo was reading with diffi- culty the leaflet which had been given him that morning on the streets of San Jose. Seated in a large leather covered armchair, his father, old 'Nor Juan Alvarez, gamonal* of the village of San Miguel, listened to the reading of the leaflet, which was a violent diatribe of a coarse nature against the candidate of the pro- gressive party for the next presidential cam- paign. The anonymous author heaped rhetorical injuries upon him, and called his followers trai- tors and slaves. These virulent expressions of campaign parlance did not make much of an impression on the mind of the old man; all of that jargon was little less than Greek to him; but when Evaristo came to the part where it was said that the candidate was a heretic who never went to mass and would close up the churches if he came into power, he knit his eyebrows, dis- turbed and disgusted. The article ended with a *The leading citizen of a village. I48 STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 49 hyperbolical eulogy of the candidate of the op- posing faction called the Nationalist party, and the enumeration of the advantages and benefits which would accrue to the country on his coming to the presidency, among which shone in the first line the liberty to make brandy and plant tobac- co.* Guaro and tobacco free! This was the ''in hoc signo vinces" of the party. "What a fine thing!" exclaimed Evaristo en- thusiastically. "It probably isn't true," replied the old man. who was skeptical, as is natural to old age. "I don't believe what these papers say." "Well, I believe every bit of it," said the young man. "Don Manuel told me this morn- ing, when I was paying him the reales I owed him. that the National party is the good one." Don Manuel was a pharmacist of San Jose, to whom Evaristo toi >k his di iubts. "And I tell you that you mustn't believe all that about free guaro and tobacco." shook bis head obstinately. The old man continued : "I have already told you that the licenciadi I trillo, who knows more than I)<>n Manuel because he is a lawyer, said to me last week thai thing the Nationalists arc telling is a lie, and thai one mustn'l pay any attention to it." The young man did nol dare to keep '»n reply- ing, but the arguments of his father did nol con- vinee him, for the reason thai he considered •Tli' ' monopoly manufac- ture "f liquor, and fornu rly 150 CUENTOS TICOS them partial, because the old man was a pro- gressist. Some months before the birth of the new party which was now making such a disturbance, the old man was passing one morning in front of the office of the jefe politico, when the latter spied him and made him come into his sanctum, when he said to him : " 'Nor Juan, you are an honest, industrious and orderly man; everybody in San Miguel respects and likes you; for that reason, and on account of the good feeling I have for you, I want you to be the first to sign the list of adherents to the progressist candi- date." The old man, disagreeably surprised, did not know what to answer. Motionless, with his eyes fastened on the feet of the official, his opposition was evident, for, like a true country man, he was suspicious and did not like to make promises, and even less to sign any agreement. The poli- tician persisted : "Our candidate is a perfect gentleman, good and honorable, who will work for the well being of the country. You know very well that I am incapable of giving you bad advice." As the old man still kept silent, inspecting the floor, the official added, after a pause : "Well, some other day we'll talk it over more at leisure, but now let's go and take a drink like good friends." And without giving him time to reply, he took the gamonal's arm familiarly and led him to La Sirena, the best and most elegant STORIES OF COSTA RICA I5I pulperia* of San Miguel. One hour later, 'Nor Juan returned to his house with his ideas consid- erably twisted from oft-repeated glasses of rum, not so much so however that he could not remem- ber that he had returned with the politician to his office and that his signature was there inscribed on a sheet of paper, below certain written lines, which he could not read for the very good reason that he did ni it km >w how. And in this wise 'Nor Juan Alvarez had become a progressist. With the bait of the gamonal's signature, the jefe polit- ico was able to ensnare all the leading citizens of San Miguel, because 'Ror Juan always brought over the "pinions of his fellow citizens, among whom he enjoyed the reputation of a pru- dent and honest man. Thus it was that when afterwards the first emissaries of the opposing party arrived, they in returned disappointed saying that nothing could be d<>ne in that village. SO unanimously progressist in sentiment. Bui their labors were not on that account entirely fruitless. The seed vn sprung up in the end. There were two or three citizens of independent and rebellious spirit who enrolled them in tin- Nationalist ranks, and little by little those who did not like the jefe polities began to join them, forming altogether small hut turbulent group who carried on an active campaign; bul as 'ftor Juan remained im movable, the majority of the village remained equally firm, with a few exceptions. ■\ general ' entral America, wherr liquors and all kinds of merchandi 1 52 CUENTOS TICOS Among these was the son of the gamonal, Eva- risto, who had allowed himself to be seduced by the promises and flattery of the apostles of the new party ; and although he continued among the progressists out of consideration for his father, in his inmost soul he was a Nationalist. The priest, closely watched by the jefe polit- ico, was very cautious at the beginning. Neither did the women show any great interest in the affairs of politics. Nevertheless there came a time when one could notice signs of agitation among them, es- pecially in the guild of church workers, these symptoms coinciding with certain rumors that the progressist candidate was nothing less than the Antichrist. As soon as he had learned of these fabulous stories, the jefe politico, who was not slow, hast- ened to inform his superiors that the priest of San Miguel was working in favor of the Nationalist candidate. One day the gamonal's wife and his two daugh- ters, Agapita and Ester, came home very much scandalized by what they had heard in the street from their friends and village gossips, that the progressists were lost to salvation ; that they were all masons; that it was not possible that their husband and father, so religious and so good, could be one of those heretic liberals, etc. The old man, disturbed by these things which the alarmed women told him, took advantage of en occasion when he wanted to sell some corn to STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 53 go to San Jose and consult with the licenciado Castrillo, the man who had his complete confi- dence. Castrillo was a progressist and one can understand that 'Xor Juan came out of his house somewhat more tranquil. He made this evident to his family when he returned at night saying that they were not to give credit to any of those tales of masons and of shutting the churches. Evaristo did not say a word. Agapita and Ester looked with significance at their mother, to incite her to answer. After a moment of silence, 'N'a Mercedes spoke: "Of course, it must be true, as that gentleman has said so. but what I know is that the people of the Centers* haven't any relig- ion." The gamonal made no reply, but his silence indicated that his wife's remark had struck home. On seeing him thus, so wrapped in thought, the women believed that the moment had arrived for making a <\< attack on the vacillating mind the head of the family, and they hinted to him that he oughl to break away from the progressist party SO as not to lose hi- soul. "I won't change." shouted the old man, strik- ing the table, on which he was leaning, with his fi-t. "I have already given my signature and it is settled." On hearing the blow, the women betook- them- to the kitchen in two jumps, and after thai scene there was n< 1 m< ire talk of parties n< ir of pi >1- itics, until the day when Evaristo brought the '(Author'a Note.) The country peopl< 1 ( who live in thi ntei del c< nti <>t the centres* 154 CUENTOS TICOS leaflet from San Jose, after the reading of which the gamonal remained much preoccupied, asking himself if, after all, what was said in it might not be true, and doubts began to assail his soul. Aga- in ta and Ester, who came in with the supper for the two men, succeeded in arousing their father from the profound meditation in which he was submerged. Behind them came Jose, a little boy of five years, son of Agapita, who was a widow. His grandfather, who was very fond of him, gave him a caress and seated himself at the table in silence. "Ave Maria purissima," said a voice from outside at that moment. "En Gracia concebida," replied the women. In the doorway was outlined the silhouette of a man. "Does the Sehor Juan Alvarez live here?" asked the voice. "Yes, senor. Come in," answered 'ffa Mer- cedes, who came from the kitchen. ".May God give you a very good night," said the new arrival, entering the house. "May the Lord make you all saints." "Amen." responded the family in chorus. "Have the goodness to be seated, Senor," said the widow, drawing up an armchair for the sweet-tongued unknown. "Many thanks. Senora, but first I wish to know one thing: this house, is it of God, or of the devil?" "Of God, Senor!" exclaimed the frightened women. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 55 ''Very well, then you are of the Nationalist party." A painful silence followed this assertion, and Evaristo turned to look at the old man, who low- ered his head before the cold glance of the un- kn< iwn one, who continued : "A christian as honorable as Senor Juan Alvarez can not be with the masons, who are going to burn the churches." The gamonal felt terrified on hearing this. Then it was all true! "And of what party are you?" 'fra Mercedes mustered courage to ask. "I? Of the party of Our Lord. Now you may see my candidate — " and on saying this he drew a crucifix out of his breast pocket, the feet of which he kissed with devotion. The whole family remained awe-struck before that act of piety, and Jose, to see better what he had in his hand, ran and placed himself between the knees of the stranger. "Whal a beautiful child!*' exclaimed the latter, on seeing him. "Whal an intelligent little face he has. I don'1 know why. bul I have a feeling that he is going t< i be ;i priest." Agapita fell like crying out for pure gratitude, and none of them had i nough to contem- plate that extraordinary man of such a venerable asp< \\' the mouth of Jose he put a gum- drop, and the child, with the curiosity natural to his years, asked what his name was. He, giving him a kiss on his dirty face, told it to him; Simeon Garcia. "Ah, you are Don Simeon !" exclaimed the widow, opening wide her eyes. "Everybody says that you are a saint." "I am no more than a poor sinner, who does not want the people to be cheated," modestly responded Don Simeon. In the next room a child began to cry. It was the youngest son of Agapita, only six months old, who had been born after the death of his STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 59 father, which was caused by a hydropathic cure. To carry out the directions of a doctor, who had prescribed a dozen sea baths, the man set out for Puntarenas, having- his oxcart loaded with coffee. Scarcely had he delivered it at the warehouse when he took religiously one after another and on the same day the dozen baths. A little remit- tent bilious fever then undertook to complete the cure. Don Simeon manifested a great desire to see the child, and went into ecstacies over his angelic beauty, although in truth he was sufficiently ugly. The mother took the child in her arms to quiet him. while 'Xa Mercedes in a low tone implored Don Simeon to use his influence with her hus- band, obstinately determined to remain a pro- gressist. Agapita also put in her oar: 'Tor Di ! Don Simeon, tell 'tata'* to change." "I [ere is one who is all powerful," replied the ly man, drawing out the crucifix again. When he returned to the room where the gamonal had remained, the latter invited him very cordially to supper. Scarcely had he . cepted. when the women hastened to bring out the very besl of their good cheer to serve to so illus- trious a gin I ster brougbl - »me friji iles t thai had a delicious odor, and some hot tortillas, '.\'a Mercedes a foamy cup of chocolate, which she herself had beaten up, and a loaf of sweel bread. When supper was over, the two men 1 a long while alone. In the kitchen 'X.i ■ l.y tin !c. l60 CUENTOS TICOS Mercedes, Evaristo and Ester whispered, await- ing the result of the interview, while the widow lulled the baby with a monotonous song: ". Irrurru ninito, Cabeza de ayote. Si no te dortnis Te conic el coyote" When the conference was finished, 'fror Juan called his wife and children. When they came in he said to them: "Don Simeon wishes that we say the rosary." The following day was Sunday. From eight o'clock in the morning the people who were going to attend the principal mass began to arrive at the church. The men wore their new jackets, Panama hats, and trousers supported at the hips by colored sashes. The women were gay in their rebozos* of bright colored silk, their starched petticoats rustling loudly beneath skirts of alpaca or chintz, nicely ironed with much care. Those who came from distant points had their heads covered with wide brimmed Panama hats, and some carried parasols. From time to time one might see the wife and daughters of some prominent villager, majestically displaying panolonesf of black silk embroidered with pink flowers, and large necklaces and ear-rings of sil- ver-plated filigree. J'Long, narrow shawls worn by women of the pnor class. ! Large china silk shawls worn by the women of the upper class in Costa Rica. STORIES OF COSTA RICA l6l At the second tolling of the bells Don Simeon arrived, very lavish with his smiles and saluta- tions. A little after him came the family of 'ftor Juan, the widow in deep mourning, Ester fresh and pretty as a rosebud, a nice little morsel for a priest, as the jefe politico, who was an unbeliev- ing libertine, irreverently remarked. The mass lasted an hour. Don Simeon edified everybody by his beautiful piety. At the moment of lifting the host the blows that he gave himself in the breast resounded throughout the whole church. There was no doubt of it, that man was a saint. The garni mal and Evaristo, seated behind him, could not admire enough the devout air with which he listened to the sermon, which that day was very pointed, touching upon the obligation which was incumbent on all the faithful to de- fend their religion menaced by liberals and masons. The priesl had resolutely taken off his mask. At the doors <>f the church various individuals distributed leaflets to the people as they came out from run--: some of the progressist party, others of the national. Two groups of seed sowers, sent out by the rival political clubs, had taken possession of the plaza, each having a corner to itself, where the orators who were to speak- were -landing ready upon tables lent by enthusiastic partisans. The speakers of each party had the floor in turn, and the large crowd of citizens of San Miguel kept moving about to hear first one [62 CUENTOS ilCOS and then the other. Little or nothing did the good countrymen understand of all those ha- rangues, delivered with so much enthusiasm by the young delegates of the central clubs; but as the Nationalists were the ones entrusted with the defence of their religion, everything that they said seemed right, above all when they threw out such bits of flattery as "the people whose sover- eignity must be re-established, breaking the chains of twenty years of dictatorship, etc." The last one to speak was a progressist of much elo- quence, who in concluding said: "What our party desires is to raise the country to the heights of modern civilization, continuing the work of former administrations which have already made so much progress. They tell you that we wish to destroy religion. It is false. In the first place we respect all religious beliefs, and above all the catholic religion, which is that of our fathers. You must not allow yourselves to be deceived by these absurd and ridiculous stories which hypocritical and evil disposed persons have undertaken to spread abroad. Because, seiiores, if the progressist party were what they say, there would not be with us such honorable and re- ligious men as . Senor Juan Alvarez, here present." At that moment the gamonal was the mark for all glances. Wedged in among the listeners, he tried to hide himself to conceal his confusion. Then, as the crowd began to disperse, the melodi- ous voice of Don Simeon was heard saying: STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 63 "Senores, you have already heard the arguments of these young gentlemen. Now let us put them to the proof. I ask those who wish to form part of the Nationalist club of San Miguel to have the goodness to follow me." Three quarters of the group of citizens fol- lowed after Don Simeon, who on seeing that 'Nor Juan Alvarez, surrounded by a few faithful ones, did not move, added, addressing himself to him in an incisive tone : "Don't you wish to accompany us, senor?" The gamonal's face grew red and he did not answer. The nationalist group waited. It was a terrible struggle that raged in the breast of the old countryman during those moments. "Yes, Don Simeon," he finally answered. Be- hind him came all the rest of the people. "Viva \\"r Juan Alvarez!" cried an enthu- siast. "Viva!" responded the retinue of Don Simeon, with a ringing shout. About the progressists only ten or twelve in- dividuals remained, among whom was the village school-master. "Miserable flock of sheep!" exclaimed one of the young liberals, who could no1 contain him- self.' 'The) were born to be sheared," murmured an< ither. Then as there was nothing to be done there now they went to drown their chagrin in "La Sirena" with some of the campaign funds. I(>4 CUENTOS TICOS From the memorable day on which he deserted the flag of the enemies of the church, 'Nor Juan was more than ever the king of his village. Elected president of the Nationalist club of San Miguel, his prestige was now considerably in- creased in proportion to the honor which his fel- low citizens had conferred on him. Every little while pamphlets and packages of printed matter arrived for him, directed to Don Juan Alvarez, President, etc., etc., and when he went to the city the leading gentlemen of the party received him with much consideration, and even slapped him on the back, saying: "The triumph is ours. What is wanted is great firmness." To which he invariably re- plied : "Don't worry about that. The people are solid for our candidate." And this was the truth. Yet that which finally gave the people of San Miguel such a great idea of the importance of their gamonal, was the visit which he paid the candidate in company with Don Simeon. There was not one citizen, great or small, who did not know about the memorable interview with all its details; the glass of beer and the cigar which the future chief executive had given him and the affectionate words he had said to him. Nevertheless the new position of the gamonal was not all flowers. There was no lack of adver- sities to embitter his triumph; one of the most serious of which was the amount of money that his presidency cost him; dollars here to aid the STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 65 campaign, dollars there to celebrate the happen- ings favorable to the cause, more dollars to get a friend out of the straits caused by his political enthusiasm, credit to fellow partisans with few scruples. In short, not a day passed that he did not have to loosen the strings of his purse. An- other mortification was the jefe politico, whose ironical glance he could not endure. He avoided meeting him, because, in spite of everything, an internal voice reproached him for his conduct. The imperturbable confidence of the official in the final triumph of his cause occasioned him uneasiness; his mocking little smile when he heard the harangues and threats of the excited partisans he considered a bad omen, and, on ac- count of what might happen, he always evaded replying to the cutting sarcasms which his for- mer friend directed at him. He did not believe it prudent to break off entirely with that man who went often to the capital, who talked with the governor, with the minister, and even with the president himself. But not all the citizens of San Miguel had the same diplomacy as the gamonal. More than one, made courageous by numerous libations in honor of the candidate, had allowed himself to utter shouts and expres- sions prejudicial to the principal authority of the people. The punishmenl wasnol long in coming. Those who made the most disturbance went to reside in the cuartel. Evaristo, thanks to the position which his father had always occupied in the village and the [66 CUENTOS TICOS consideration which the authorities had for him on that account, had not yet served his time in the army, and he imagined that the time for shouldering a gun would never arrive for him. Vain illusion ! One day a corporal presented himself at the house and carried away the youth, with five or six others. That night 'Nor Juan lay awake thinking that such a misfortune would not have happened in the days when he was on friendly terms with the jefe politico. The absence of Evaristo, who was his right arm, the time which his duties as president of the club required, and the many expenses which the position caused him, brought great disorder to the business affairs of the gamonal, usually so well managed. Thus it was that as an im- portant note, in favor of a bank, was about to become due, 'Ror Juan found with dismay that it would not be possible for him to pay it at the stipulated time, a thing which would happen for the first time in his life. Much worried, he went to consult the lawyer Castrillo, to ask his aid in getting out of the difficulty. The latter calmed him, advising him to request a renewal of the note, a thing which would not be difficult to obtain, considering the good reputation which his signature and that of his surety, Toribio Cas- cante. had always enjoyed. The gamonal went to the bank with consid- erable dread, for he considered it a dishonor to ask for a renewal. The manager, who always had treated him with much deference, as is cus- STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 67 tomary in banks when dealing- with persons who have money, received him this time with coldness and reserve. 'Xor Juan explained the situation to him. making plain that his financial distress was but temporary, but the manager, who had lis- tened to him absent-mindedly, cut him short, say- ing dryly: "I am very sorry, Senor Alvarez, but it is impossible. You understand that the bank is obliged to be very prudent, in view of the dis- agreeable aspect political affairs are assuming." These last words were said with a certain signifi- cant tone. The countryman went out ashamed and with tears in his eyes; still, as it was neces- sary to pay, he had to seek for the money in another direction. A coffee buyer promised it to him. but it was no1 possible to finish the matter, because Toribio Cascante did not wish to con- tinue acting as security for his friend, whom he reproached for going into politics, which was a bad thing he said. There was then no other remedy than to go to a money lender, who let him have the money on a mortgage at a very high ran- 1 if interest. "If you hadn't been so stupid as to go into politics"- -the lav aid to him, when they went out of the money lender's house "the thing could have been arranged in the bank; but, my friend, you have allowed yourself to be fool- ishly deceived by the Nationalists, and now you mii-i take the o msequence These words made the gamonal discern that, if politics for a certain few is a source of profil K>< s CUENTOS TICOS and satisfaction, for the majority it brings only sorrows and tribulations. The joy of triumph came to sweeten somewhat the bitterness caused him by the misfortunes which have been related. It is true that Evaristo remained in the cuartel and a ruinous mortgage weighed upon his coffee plantation, La Lima, but, on the other hand, it was a great pleasure to have conquered, to have saved religion, the supremacy of the people, men- aced by those bandits of progressists. And what a splendid victory was that of the National party in San Miguel ! In vain were all the efforts and threats of the jefe politico. It was of no avail that the progressists, who were in the majority at the electoral table, took the first two days of the elections to inscribe the fourteen votes which remained to their party in the village. The mass of the good people, who, restrained by organized force, were awaiting their turn with impatience, was finally able to reach the table on the last day, drowning in an instant with the tide of their votes the poor little fourteen of their adversaries. And what tenacity those enemies of God had, for did they not try to take by force that which the ballot-boxes had denied them? When this hap- pened, 'ftor Juan Alvarez was one of the first to rush to the defence of the imperilled reward at the head of the men of San Miguel, and passed a whole night laying siege to the capital, disposed to make the constitution respected and also to run away should the troops draw near. Still, one could not ask more of a man armed only with a machete. STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 69 At last came the great clay of the final triumph. The gamonal, who was ordinarily very self-con- tained, could not resist the desire to celebrate worthily the advent of the executive of his choice. When at night he returned to San Miguel, after the illuminations and fire-works, in company with his faithful fellow villagers he entered the village like a mad man, shouting and executing pir- ouettes on horseback. In one of these the animal slipped and fell, breaking one of his master's legs. 'Xor Juan was laid up more than three months and spent a considerable sum of money on doc- tor's visits, only to remain lame after all. At the outset, 'Nor Juan Alvarez recovered his former influence with the new jefe politico. This however did not last long, for, greatly to the scandal of all the good citizens who had aided in creating the new regime, the official was not long in getting on friendly terms with the pro- gressists of San Miguel, especially with the pro- prietor of La Sirena, who had been the head of the party there. According to what the evil tongues said, the astute shopkeeper gave on credit to the politician all the cognac that he could drink, so that six months after the great triumph, which had cosl so much labor, those who really governed the village Were the keeper of the pul- peria and his friends, with great detriment to the conquerors. The i ted villagers complained ami mg then and there were even s< >me who missed the former jefe politico, who after all was amiable and obliging. An anonymous letter 1JO CUENTOS TICOS against the new man, which a daily paper of the capital published, finished the work of spoiling things, strengthening the union of the official and the progressists, who wrote another letter in which they hotly defended him and censured the wayward and rebellious spirit of certain citizens of San Miguel, who aspired only to command. The relations between the jefe politico and the villagers became embittered to such a degree that 'Nor Juan Alvarez, at the request of many of the citizens, resolved to make use of his influence with the president to have the official removed from office. He set out one morning, full of confidence, remembering the cordiality of the reception which the president had given him when he was a candidate. As he was riding to the city, the details of the interview came to his mind; the friendly words, the cigar, the glass of beer, the protests of good will. "As soon as I talk to him everything will be arranged," thought the gam- onal, as he sat in the antechamber, in company with ten or twelve other persons. After three hours of waiting, his confidence was not so great, and when his turn arrived, and an aid directed him to enter the office of the chief of the government, he completely lost his former self- confidence. One glance sufficed to inform him that the man before him was not now the good- natured, smiling candidate, who had received him with so much affability. Cold and grave, his glance calmly inquiring, the president asked him STORIES OF COSTA RICA iyi the motive of his visit. 'ftor Juan, much disturbed, explained to him, timidly and with hesitation, the legitimate complaints of the Na- tionalists in San Miguel against the jefe politico, and their desire that he be removed. With unex- pected severity, the magistrate rebuked him for the spirit of rebellion which the people of San Miguel had been showing for some time, and in- sisted on the necessity of respecting the authori- ties. Then he said that he knew the jefe politico personally, that he was a good man and worthy of his entire confidence, incapable of abusing it; that his relations with the progressists were far from constituting a fault, rather it was a proof of his amiable and conciliatory disposition. Moreover, it was well that things were as they were, for the country was desirous of tranquillity, and the hatreds stirred up by the electoral battle should be forgotten. The countryman went out from the interview much crestfallen and returned to his village with his ears drooping. To the enthusiasm of the conflict and the joy of victory in San Miguel succeeded the most bit- ter disenchantment. The chains of twenty years of dictatorship were to have been broken, the sovereignity of the people was to have been re- ablished, the slothful men of the former administrations were to have been swept aside, but the truth was thai everything remained the same. Religion was nol triumphant, nor were IJ_ CUENTOS TICOS "guaro" and tobacco free, nor had anyone a dollar more in his pocket. What had the citizens of San Miguel gained by the change? To be sure they had been given a new jefe politico. A great gain indeed, since everybody was anxious to have him leave! The progressists laughed at the dis- satisfaction of their adversaries, and when the latter complained of having been cheated with false promises, they answered : "They were right in taking you for fools. If our candidate were in power it would be another cock that is crow- ing. At least you would not have this jefe politi- co who bothers you so much." In all the village the only one who said nothing was Toribio Cas- cante, the former surety of 'ftor Juan Alvarez. He neither despised the jefe politico nor desired the return of the former one, nor clamored for the promised suppression of the monopoly on brandy and tobacco. This rustic philosopher had never believed in any of the promises of the parties that were contending for power; and while the others lost time in talking, in agitating themselves, in drinking, he kept quietly on with his farm labor and habitual tasks, without worry- ing over the fact that they called him "pancista,"* and said he was of the cat party, that is to say, one of those who always land on their feet. It was thus that his affairs had prospered. The cof- fee plantation gave good returns, the cattle were bursting with fatness, and every Saturday he re- turned from the market with his pockets full of *One who is on the fence. A COFFEE TREE IN inn STORIES OF COSTA RICA 175 money. In contrast with this pleasing situation, that of 'Nor Juan Alvarez was more distressing each day. The enormous interest that the money lender charged was an ulcer that was eating away his fortune, already so impaired. The small crop which La Lima produced, on account of lack of assistance during the absence of Evaristo, com- pleted the work of demoralizing things, and the gamonal, seeing that he was on the road to inevi- table ruin, began to lose heart. "Toribio Cascante is the only one who can get me out of these difficulties," he used often to say in the bosom of his family, but since the wealthy philosopher had refused to keep on act- ing as his security the relations between the two neighbors and friends had grown cool. This did not prevent Cascante from making prudent obser- vations, when 'fifror Juan became a member of the Orthodox League, a clerical association whose ramifications extended throughout the whole country like the tentacles of a monstrous octopus, a branch of which the priest had just founded in San Miguel. The citizens, discontented with the eminent and having still fresh in their imag- inations the stupid arguments with which the nationalists had awakened their dormant re- ligious fanaticism, rallied with enthusiasm to the new standard. 'Nor Juan Alvarez was elected presidenl of the orthodox club, and each day i atei- liking for politics. Neverthe- less, when the priesl told him thai the cause of religion was very pour and that it was necessary I 76 CUENTOS 11 COS for all true believers to make a pecuniary sacri- fice in order to help their triumph, he felt as though they had dashed a bucket of cold water over him. He stammered a few excuses and vague explanations about his embarrassed finan- cial situation. But the priest, who knew the habitual avarice of the country people, replied indignantly that as a rich and influential man he had to set the example; that his fondness for worldly things was a great sin in the eyes of God, who had heaped good things upon him; that our Lord returns a hundred fold the alms that are given him, and that it would not be a bad thing for him to look a little more after his soul's salva- tion. The old man, with grief in his heart, had to detach himself from a considerable sum. A little while afterwards the opportunity presented itself for testing the enormous political power which the Orthodox League represented. The time had arrived for renewing half of the congress, and the real leaders behind the scenes who pulled the wires of the association felt sure of the triumph of the clerical ticket. In the morning of the day appointed for the voting, the electors of San Miguel, who had con- fessed the evening before, received the sacrament very early before setting out on what the priest compared to a new crusade. At the front went the gamonal, who, during the whole trip, did not cease to admonish them to follow faithfully the instructions which the priest had given them. Everybody proclaimed his obedience with much STORIES OF COSTA RICA 177 warmth, but on arriving at the capital, each hav- ing in his pocket the neatly folded list which had just been given him at the central club of the league, their firmness had to withstand a rude assault. Gathered there were all the most influ- ential men of the nationalist and progressist parties working together for one and the same ticket which was opposed to that of the clergy. The countryman looked with stupefaction at the intimate union of men, who, two years before, had been desirous of killing each other and had called one another bandits and scoundrels in the newspapers, in the clubs and in public places. Well did Toribio Cascante say that the people who wore frock coats* were all the same kind of monkeys with different tails. There was one mo- ment when the gamonal himself felt that he was faltering, and that was when Don Simeon and the lawyer Castrillo tried to dissuade him from voting for the league. Don Simeon confabulat- ing with the masons! What was the world com- ing to, when even the saints were turning against God! But the gamonal was too religious i<> break a promise made under the auspices of the sacra- ment of the confession and the mystery of the eucharist. So the seductive voice of Don Simeon uttered bis best arguments in vain; 'fror Juan Alvanv. remained firm as a rock. Contrary to the hope of the clericals, their ticket was defeated through" iiit almost the whole country, owing to the coalition of the advanced elements, and in •In Soanisb "gent ita." The country people ol Costa Rica tbui refer to the uppei i ' I 78 CUENTOS TICOS great part also to the numerous desertions from the ranks of the league at the last hour. Nevertheless the triumph was by a small mar- gin and the clerical propaganda continued more active and powerful than ever, aided by the dis- cords of the liberals, who broke forth into dis- sentions again at the very time of their victory, forgetting the famous motto : "In union there is strength." The league, concealing its rancor, offered its aid to the weak and wavering admin- istration, which, making certain concessions, hastened to accept it. This state of affairs, how- ever, could not last long, because the league felt itself sufficiently vigorous to get on alone and repulsed the idea of adopting a political head which was not selected freely by itself from among the most docile and inane. Of the four- teen progressists of San Miguel, some had joined the league. The rest did not know which of the liberal candidates to choose, because the lat- ter, not to go back on their custom, were at log- gerheads. Therefore when the elections came the triumph of the clerical party there, as well as in all the rest of the country, was astonishing. The gamonal rubbed his hands together with pleasure, thinking that this time, with the coming into power of his friends, who had promised to aid him, he was going to get out of debt. The priest could scarcely contain himself in his skin, considering as good as abolished all those hateful laws made by those demons of liberals; the secu- larization of cemeteries, laical education, civil C n > < r < •a > r n 2 H - r £ STORIES OF COSTA RICA l8l marriage and so on; but above all he rejoiced in the blessed re-establishment of the tithes, offer- ings of first-fruits and other sinecures, although he thought it more prudent to say nothing to his parishioners on this point. But the illusions of the members of the league were not to last long. In the midst of their rejoicing they forgot that in the admirable hand which they held there was one card lacking. Their adversaries, on the other hand, had only one, but that was the best, or the worst, as you prefer — the trump of swords.* In the final elections the league was beaten, or more correctly, they were told that they were beaten, so that their fusion with those who had before been their worst enemies profited them nothing. They tried to re-enact the famous farce played four years ago by the national party. Poor Orthodox League! They forgot that the progressists, those monsters of iniquity, who after all were only sheep in wolves' cloth- ing, tyrants who did not shed blood, were not now in power. The clericals learned on this ion, with >omc detriment to their ribs, that everything varii the glass through which one lool The cavalry took charge of gathering in th( ited countrymen who were trying to remember those patriotic songs aboul the re- en ■nty of the people, of the breaking of the chains of twenty years of dictatorship, and others nol les pretty, forgetting thai it is •'['I, nnot be ti an lated into English. In a ding to ■pades, ia called "1 i "Swords." lN_> CUENTOS TICOS quite another thing when sung with the guitar. Evaristo, 'Nor Juan, the priest, and some more from San Miguel, went to take up their abode in the various prisons in which some nationalists of last year acted as hosts to their former fellow partisans, doubtless to recompense them for hav- ing believed in their promises. The women were left to die, as is natural, thinking of their hus- bands, fathers, sons and brothers. In the house of 'Nor Juan the affliction was greater than ever, because the usurer, holder of the mortgage which hung over La Lima, had just commenced suit for non-payment, at that time so full of distress for them. By the gateway of politics all the misfortunes of that peaceful home had entered. A week passed without their being able to learn anything of the prisoners. The wife and daughters of the gamonal had gone twice to San Jose, in search of news, but all their efforts had been in vain, and they had had to return more disheartened than, ever, after having looked at the silent walls of the different prisons, for they did not even know in which of them the two men were. Alarming rumors concerning the prison- ers were rife among the people and the poor women were in despair when they heard them. Toribio Cascante advised them to ask the jefe politico to use his influence in favor of the prison- ers, and the proprietor of La Sirena, who was a leading man in the new party which had just been born out of nothing, promised to help their petition with his powerful influence. 'Na Mer- STORIES OF COSTA RICA 1 85 cedes went very humbly to see the official, accom- panied by her daughter Ester, who was not now the rosebud which the former jefe politico had so much admired, but a beautiful flower that in- flamed the desires of the new one. The poor old woman begged in tears for the compassion of the man who was able to return her husband and son to her, and he, without promising any- thing, said that he would see, that he would talk it over, but that the thing was very difficult, inas- much as both father and son were much involved in that terrible attempt against law and order, which it had been necessary to drown in blood. As the women were leaving, the jefe politico took advantage of the moment when 'Na Mercedes was going out first, to say to Ester : "Come back alone and we will talk about it." Early in the morning, the family of the gamonal set out from San Miguel. The three women and the youngest child of the widow were riding in the oxcart which Evaristo was driving, with his g"ad on his shoulder. Behind came 'X'ir Juan Alvarez and his grandson Jose, on t. All remained silent, oppressed with a great sadness, because they had to leave thai well- beloved village, where they had enjoyed good fortune and plenty for so many years. But the usurer had been implacable and the auction of I a Lima had taken place. Toribio Cascante had bought it for a third of its \;ilue, because as he said, "Business is bu ine l86 CUENTOS TICOS Deeply affected by the loss of his beloved coffee plantation, the gamonal did not wish to keep on living in San Miguel, although he still had his house and another small bit of land. He sold everything, so as to go and establish himself in a distant place where he had a tract of uncultivated land among the mountains. When he passed in front of La Lima, that fine coffee plantation which twenty years before he had set out with his own hands, a tear rolled down the weather- beaten cheeks of the poor old man. He could scarcely believe that that fertile land was no longer his. The little child was sleeping in the lap of its mother. Jose, with the indifference of childhood, was amusing himself with the inci- dents of the road, making the dogs bark or throwing pebbles at the chickens which were- scratching about. At the top of the hill called Jocote the travellers halted. In the centre of the smiling valley which lay spread out at their feet could be seen a white dot, — it was the church of San Miguel. The gamonal contemplated it for a long time with deep emotion, and after a while he exclaimed with resignation : "Cud be praised that he oppresses but does not crush entirely. If it had not been for the jefe politico, who knows where Evaristo and I would be now! God be praised that he so orders it that there are still good souls in this world." Ester, who had heard these words, sighed deeply. She alone knew what it had cost that there "might still be good souls in the world." HIDALGUIA. (chivalry) OXE night in the month of July four horse- men, well mounted, emerged from an hacienda in L'ruca* and rode hurriedly along the highway to the joining of the road to San Antonio de Belen, where they stopped. "Here we must separate/' said one of them. "May you have good luck, Ramon." he added searching in the darkness for his friend's hand. "Adios, Salvador, adios," replied the one spoken to, in a voice trembling with emotion. The two men. without letting go of each other's hand-, drew together until their stirrups touched, and embraced warmly. "Adios, adios"— "Good hick." After a lasl embrace, long and affectionate, both started off in different directions, each i corted by one of the two horsemen who had jusl witnessed the sad -erne of farewell. Those who followed the highroad did nol get very far. At the Ciruelas river they fell into the hands of a pickel of soldiers who carried them prisoners to *.\ 'li trict near Sati J IS 7 1 38 CUENTOS TICOS the Cuartel of Alajuela. The other two fugi- tives, for fugitives they were, kept on, with bet- ter fortune, along the San Antonio road.* The darkness did not permit them to see where they were going, so that the travellers had to trust to the instinct of their horses to avoid the bad places or to get out of them. Luckily it did not rain, which would have been one more hindrance to the rapid march that the critical situation in which Salvador Moreno found himself neces- sitated, for he was being eagerly searched for on account of his share in the attack made the night before on the Cuartel Principalf in San Jose. The revolutionary uprising had failed through the fault of those who were to have brought men from the neighboring towns, with the in- tention of arming them when the Cuartel had surrendered, and of laying siege to the other ones. Not one of them appeared at the critical mo- ment, and the few valiant ones who had surprised the garrison asleep at two o'clock in the morn- ing, had to abandon at daybreak the conquest which had cost them so much blood. Salvador did not answer the questions which from time to time his companion asked him. Absorbed in his thoughts he lived over again the happenings of last night's bloody drama; the meeting in the house of one of the conspirators, the irritating wait for those who did not come, *This road which is little travelled, rejoins the main highway to Puntarenas near the Rio Grande. ; I T i :i