ACRO S S 
 THE ANDES 
 
 Charles Johnson Post 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2007 with funding from 
 
 IVIicrosoft Corporation 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/acrossandesOOpostrich 
 
ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
ACROSS THE 
 ANDES 
 
 BY 
 
 CHARLES JOHNSON POST 
 
 A Tale of Wandering Days Among the Mountains 
 of Bolivia and the Jungles of the Upper Amazon 
 
 Illustrated by the Author 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 MCMXII 
 
F 
 
 "fi 
 
 Copyright, 1912, by 
 OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
 Thanks are due to Harper and Brothers and to the Century 
 Company for permission to incorporate as chapters in this 
 volume, articles appearing in Harper's Magazine and The Cen- 
 tury, and to the latter for the drawings and paintings accom- 
 panying such articles. 
 
THE TROPICS 
 
 ' 'rry ^^ legion that never was listed," 
 I The soft-lilting rhythm and song, 
 
 The starlight, and shadowy tropics, 
 The palms— and all that belong; 
 The unknown that ever persisted 
 
 In dreams that were epics of bliss, 
 Of glory and gain without effort — > 
 And the visions have faded, like this. 
 
 From dusk to dawn, when the heat is gone, 
 The home thoughts nestle and throb, 
 And the drifting breeze through the dim, 
 gray trees 
 Stirs up the fancies wan 
 Of the old, cool life and a white man's wife 
 With a w:hite man^s babes on a lawn. 
 Where the soft greens please — yet each mor- 
 row sees 
 The flame that follows the dawn. 
 
 5 
 
 267434 
 
6 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 From dawn till eve the hot hours leave 
 Their mark like a slow-burned scar; 
 
 And a dull, red hate 'gainst the grilling fate, 
 Impulse and fevers weave; 
 While the days to come — in years their sum — 
 The helpless thoughts perceive 
 As an endless state, sans time or date, 
 That only gods relieve. 
 
 Rubber or gold — the game is old. 
 The lust and lure and venture; 
 
 And the trails gleam white in the tropic night 
 Where the restless spirits mould; 
 A vine-tied cross 'neath the festooned moss, 
 Bones in a matting rolled; 
 No wrong or right, the loss is slight. 
 The world-old fooled of gold. 
 
 " The legion that never was listed " — >■ 
 
 The glamor of words in a song, 
 The lure of the strange and exotic. 
 
 The drift of the few from the throng; 
 The past that was never resisted 
 
 In the ebb or the flow of desire. 
 The foolish, the sordid, ambitious. 
 
 Now pay what the gods require. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER *AG< 
 
 I. Old Panama, Agamemnon,; and 
 
 The Genial Picaroon •, r.. . 13 
 
 11. The Fighting Whale, and China- 
 men IN THE Chicken Coop . 27 
 
 III. Through a Tropical Quarantine 46 
 
 IV. A Forced March Across the De- 
 
 sert OF Atacama .... 62 
 
 V. Arequipa, the City of Churches 76 
 
 VI. Through the Inca Country . 88. 
 
 VII. Out of La Paz by Pack Train . 103 
 
 VIII. The Back Trail Among the Ay- 
 
 maras 118 
 
 IX. Over the First Great Pass . .131 
 
 X. The Toll Gate and Mapiri . 145 
 
 XL Waiting for the Leccos . . . 159 
 
 XIL Off on the Long Drift . . . 172 
 
 XIII. The Lecco Tribe 184 
 
 XIV. Drifting Down the Rio Mapiri 200 
 XV. Shooting the Ratama . . . 214 
 
 XVI. Opening up the Jungle . . . 224 
 XVII. Twenty-Three Days Against the 
 
 Current 238 
 
 XVIII. By Pack Mule Through the 
 
 Jungle , , , , , . . 252 
 
8 CONTENTS^ 
 
 CHAPTER PAGB 
 
 XIX. The Indian Uprising .... 266. 
 
 XX. Ambushed by Ladrones . . . 280 
 
 XXI. The Music of the AymarAs . . 289 
 
 XXII. Back Home . 299 
 
 XXIII. Off Across the Continent in a 
 
 Batalon 309 
 
 XXIV. Through the Rubber Country 321 
 XXV. A New Crew and Another 
 
 Batalon 337 
 
 XXyi. The Falls of the Madeira and 
 
 Home 350 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Running the Rapids of the Ratama Frontispiece 
 
 PAG« 
 
 Announced that a person, a somebody, was awaiting me 
 
 below 13 
 
 Pointed scornfully to the outside 15 
 
 Agamemnon 18 
 
 Those who refused to pay were thrown into the chicken 
 
 coop 35 
 
 When the end lid was taken off the bodies of eight dead 
 
 Chinamen were taken out ^y 
 
 A deserted brigantine at anchor dipped slowly with the long 
 
 Pacific swells . _ 42 
 
 What the diplomat said was direct and voluble .... 49 
 A wide dusty canal which in the intervals between showers 
 
 serves as a market (facing page) 50 
 
 Close resemblance to an army of drunken bugs .... 52 
 Every day our winches whirred and clattered off some 
 
 dusty, sand-blown port (facing page) 54 
 
 lyima, a delightful city of contrasts 58 
 
 An Arequipa carrier 78 
 
 In Arequipa, the city of churches . . . (facing page) 80 
 
 Hardly a day without its Saint's fiesta 83 
 
 An Andean touring car 85 
 
 In Pizarro's day it was probably the same — costume, craft, 
 
 and barter (facing page) 100 
 
 Haggled with arrieros over pack mules 104 
 
 Prisoners along the trail up from La Paz (facing page) 106 
 
 Aymara driver of pack llamas iii 
 
 Members of a gang of prisoners 112 
 
 The guard for the road menders 114 
 
 Rodriguez and his Cholo helpers tightened the rawhide 
 
 cinches and replaced the packs 116 
 
 Aymara herders played their weird flutes 123 
 
 A few streets were still plainly marked, though the village 
 
 has been dead these many centuries . (facing page) 128 
 
10 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 PACK 
 
 Blizzards blowing from the Andean passes 133 
 
 Soldering the food in tin cans 138 
 
 Scattered in hysterical flight up and down the precipitous 
 
 ^ slope 141 
 
 Skirted the base of an unbroken cliff 142 
 
 Toll gate in Mapiri 145 
 
 An Andean mountaineer 146 
 
 There loomed the big mound of stones with a twig cross on 
 
 top {facing page) 148 
 
 Slowly the rafts sank under the weight 172 
 
 The shrewish, leather-skinned Indian wife 174 
 
 There were, according to the Lecco standards, no "bad 
 
 places" yet 179 
 
 Leccos lowering the callapo through shallows .... 181 
 
 Lecco of the twig raft 182 
 
 These Leccos are among the finest Indians 184 
 
 Napoleon, a Lecco chief 188 
 
 A Lecco type 189 
 
 We seemed to move with intolerable slowness .... 203 
 
 But it is those parts of the river that the Leccos fairly love 209 
 
 A rubber picker 2iti 
 
 On a rope a trolley worked back and forth from which was 
 
 suspended a tiny platform ......... 258 
 
 Never was there such a ride — not even in the Rapids of the 
 
 Ratama {facing page) 264 
 
 The Tacana brides, adjusted for themselves comfortable 
 
 niches in the cargo 314 
 
 At the tiller presided a huge Tacana ^ 316 
 
 Never was such an exhibition in the history of firearms . 319 
 But it was monkey that furnished them with the greatest 
 
 delicacy 323 
 
 Often we pass a little shelter of palm leaves .... 326 
 
 Night camp on the Rio Beni on the way out {facing page) 328 
 
 It was only the shack of a lonely rubber picker .... 330 
 
 In the thin blue smoke, it at once turned a pale yellow . 332 
 Justice is administered according to the standards of his 
 
 submissive domain 333 
 
 The bolachas of rubber are threaded on long ropes . . 348 
 
 Dragging a batalon around the portage of the Madeira Falls 351 
 
 i 
 
ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 OLD PANAMA^ AGAMEMNON, AND THE GENIAL 
 PICAROON 
 
 IT was in Panama — the old Panama — and in 
 front of the faded and blistered hotel that I 
 met him again. A bare-footed, soft-voiced 
 mozo had announced that a person, a somebody, 
 was awaiting me below. Down in the broken- 
 
 ANNOUNC^D THAT A PERSON, A SOMEBODY, WAS AWAITING ME 
 BEI,0W. 
 
 13 
 
14 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 tiled lobby a soured, saffron clerk pointed scorn- 
 fully to the outside. Silhouetted against the hot 
 shimmer that boiled up from the street was a 
 jaunty figure in a native, flapping muslin jacket, 
 native rope-soled shoes, and dungaree breeches, 
 carefully rolling a cigarette from a little bag of 
 army Durham. It turned and, from beneath 
 the frayed brim of a native hat, there beamed 
 upon me the genial assurance of Bert, one time 
 of the Fifth Army Corps, Santiago de Cuba, 
 and occasionally of New York; and within my 
 heart I rejoiced. Without, I made a signal that 
 secured a bottle of green, bilious, luke-warm 
 native beer and settled myself placidly for en- 
 tertainment. 
 
 A panicky quarantine stretched up and down 
 some few thousand miles of the West Coast that 
 left the steamer schedules a straggling chaos. 
 For fifteen dull, broiling days I had swapped 
 hopes and rumors with the polyglot steamship 
 clerk or hung idly over the balcony of the Hotel 
 Marina watching the buzzards hopping about 
 the mud flats or grouped hopefully under the 
 quarter of a slimy smack. Once I had inspected 
 the Colombian navy that happened to be lying 
 off the Boca and observed a bran-new pair of 
 
15 
 
 OLD PANAMA 
 
 white flannels go to their; 
 ruin as a drunken ScotcH 
 enginee r 
 teetered 
 d own an 
 iron lad- 
 der with a lidless coal-oil 
 lamp waving in discur- 
 sive gestures; once I had 
 met a mild, dull, person 
 who had just come up 
 Magdalena River way 
 with a chunk of gold that 
 he assured me — without 
 detail — had been hacked 
 off by a machete, but here ^^^ °^''^'^- 
 his feeble imagination flickered out and he 
 wrapped the rest in a poorly wrought mystery 
 until finally he fluttered over to Colon for the 
 next steamer of innocent possibilities. 
 
 With these the respectable amusements were 
 exhausted and I therefore rejoiced as I con- 
 fronted that cheerful, raconteuring adventurer 
 under the battered Panama. A ship's purser, a 
 
 POINTED SCORNFUI,I,Y TO 
 
fi6 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 drummer of smoked hams, a Coney Island 
 barker, a soldier, a drifter, and always a teller 
 of tales, he had lain in the trenches on Misery 
 Hill before Santiago in support of Capron's 
 Battery with a gaunt group around him as he 
 wove the drifting thread of adventure from the 
 Bowery to the Barbary Coast in a series of ro- 
 bust anecdotes. And they bore the earmarks of 
 truth. 
 
 Now, in the genial silhouette framed against 
 the tropic glare, I realized that whatever days 
 of waiting might be in store they would no 
 longer be dull. A true rumor had put him in 
 a lone commercial venture somewhere down 
 these coasts and here at my elbow was to be 
 placed all the shift and coil of petty adventure, 
 whimsical romance, and the ultimate results of 
 two years of adroit piracy in and out of the 
 Spanish Main that had ended, as I observed, in 
 dungaree breeches, rope-soled alpargatas, and a 
 battered Panama hat. 
 
 Therefore through the ministrations of an oc- 
 casional bottle of the native bilious beer and 
 other transactions that shall remain private, the 
 days sped themselves swiftly and unheeded 
 guided by the adept hand of Romance. Again, 
 
OLD PANAMA 17 
 
 as in the trenches, I viewed the world under As- 
 modean influences, but what I heard has no 
 place in these pages ; it is worth an endeavor all 
 its own. Then, one morning, the news spread 
 that at last the Mapocho lay at the Boca and the 
 hour of departure for the first stage to the in- 
 terior of South America was at hand ; the night 
 before was the last I saw of my genial friend. 
 In the morning he did not appear, and it was 
 strange, for I had expected to do the proper 
 thing, as I saw it, realizing that dungarees and 
 alpargatas are poor armor and that our con- 
 sulates offer but a desperate and prickly hospi- 
 tality. 
 
 In the afternoon I went aboard, crawling 
 down a gangway that dropped to the deck like 
 a ladder where, in the morning, it had reared 
 itself with equal steepness against the Mapocho' s 
 sides. Such are the Pacific tides at the Boca. 
 Agamemnon, the shriveled little Barbadoes 
 darky, scuttled about importantly, stowing our 
 baggage and giving an occasional haughty or- 
 der to some steward in a nondescript patois that 
 passed mainly as Spanish and that often served, 
 as I learned, better than the purest Ollendorfian 
 Castilian. Later it appeared that Agamemnon 
 
i8 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 had left one of these same 
 steamers under a cloud — 
 a trifling matter of a few 
 sheets and pillow cases — 
 and now to return clothed 
 with trust and authority 
 over " de fixin's an de 
 baggage of gent'mens " 
 swelled him with an in- 
 articulate triumph. 
 
 In the long months 
 that followed none could 
 have given more faithful 
 service or loyalty than 
 this skimpy Barbadoes 
 darky. That is within 
 his limitations, for he 
 could no more resist 
 liquor than a bear can 
 honey, but nevertheless 
 when he had transgress- 
 ed, his uncertain legs 
 would bring him back to 
 his duties, speechless per- 
 haps, but with arms wavering in gestures of ex- 
 tenuation. 
 
 AGAMEMNON 
 
OLD PANAMA 19 
 
 Also to Agamemnon wages meant nothing; 
 a shilling now and again — sometimes even the 
 equivalent of a whole dollar — advanced him 
 with the specific understanding that it was for 
 gambling and not for liquor. Once, in La Paz, 
 he won a hundred and fifty dollars, Mex, and be- 
 came an impossible animal until it had been 
 frittered away. In the same city he went to the 
 bull fight and joined in the play against the final 
 bull that is " dedicated to the people " and fought 
 so cleverly that we became prominent by reflec- 
 tion and gave a party at the corrida the follow- 
 ing Sunday to see Agamemnon's promised per- 
 formance. 
 
 By this time Agamemnon had become a cha- 
 racter and a score of little boys scrambled over 
 the barrier eager to hold his hat, his coat, and 
 his cuffs. With a flourish he handed each to its 
 eager guardian and then, with a coat held as a 
 capa, gave a flourish and advanced toward the 
 bull. The crowd applauded. Agamemnon 
 made a bow and a flourish and waggled the coat. 
 The bull snuffed briskly and charged. Alasl 
 The hand had lost its cunning, for Agamemnon 
 shot ten feet skyward, turned an involuntary som- 
 ersault at the apex of his flight, and then 
 
20 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 sprawled back to earth. A half dozen of the 
 toreros drew off the bull; the small boy custo- 
 dians flung his garments at him scornfully, while 
 the Bolivian audience laughed itself hoarse as 
 the dusty, dishevelled figure hobbled out of the 
 ring and away from the crowd. 
 
 For himself Agamemnon asked but little al- 
 though where he felt that the dignity of his posi- 
 tion was involved he became a tower of strength. 
 It was in the same city that he felt the hotel peo- 
 ple were not treating him fairly, as they were 
 not, and his remonstrance was met by a Cholo 
 mozo who hurled a sugar bowl at his head and 
 followed it up with a knife. Agamemnon 
 dodged and beat down the Indian with a chair; 
 on the instant a half dozen Cholos poured at 
 him and the kitchen was in a riot. Backing 
 away, he denuded the dining tables of service 
 and used it as a light artillery fire. By the aid 
 of an earthenware jar, some handy crockery, and 
 a chair he was able to retreat safely across the 
 patio and up the stairway that led to our rooms. 
 A water pitcher laid open a skull and a wash- 
 bowl stopped the rush long enough for him to 
 grab a gun from the pillow when we arrived, 
 together with some stubby Bolivian police and 
 
OLD PANAMA 21 
 
 the bony Russian proprietor; order was restored, 
 fortunately, for it might have been serious. 
 
 Agamemnon explained satisfactorily and in- 
 cidentally showed only a minor bump or so, but 
 his Cholo and Aymara antagonists bore most 
 proper marks of the conflict. That night in the 
 midst of his shoe-polishing and packing he re- 
 marked briefly: "If you gent'mens hadn't er- 
 come jes' den I cer'nly would have licked dem 
 fellers, bahs!" Apparently no victory was 
 complete to his mind until he had accomplished 
 a massacre. 
 
 At another time he waded into a crowd of 
 Cholos in the interior and took from them their 
 machetes and shot-guns, acting on his own in- 
 itiative, because he knew that in that far interior 
 laborers were too precious to waste by their own 
 fighting. From our tent we heard two shots 
 and the rising yells of a small riot and then, be- 
 fore there was time to grab a gun or gather the 
 few white men, the figure of Agamemnon stag- 
 gered up the crest of the river bank with his 
 arms full of the commandeered machetes and 
 trade-guns. 
 
 There was the time when a balsa upset in a 
 boiling eddy and Agamemnon jumped in as a 
 
22 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 faithful rescuer only to still further compli- 
 cate matters ; also when — but it is useless, Aga- 
 memnon is a story in himself. Tireless, uncom- 
 plaining, honest, loyal, yet of the aimless tribe of 
 bandar-log, apparently only merely the mouse 
 of a man in a wrinkled black skin and yet the 
 paragon of retainers. Peace be to him wher- 
 ever he has drifted. 
 
 At the table that evening on the Mapocho the 
 few passengers looked each other over in the 
 customary, stand-offish way, — a couple of fresh 
 faced young Englishmen adventuring to clerk- 
 ships, a German commercial traveler — an expert 
 in those Latin countries who makes one blush 
 for the self-complacent, brusque, greaser-hating 
 jingoes that are only too typical of our export ef- 
 forts — three mining engineers, a returning Peru- 
 vian diplomat for whose presence we later 
 blessed him and a couple of native Ecuadorean 
 families, wealthy cacao haciendados, who 
 flocked by themselves in a slatternly, noisy 
 group. 
 
 But by the next evening, drawn together by 
 the prospect of a tedious, uncertain voyage 
 through erratic quarantines, we were one large 
 family. We lay back in our canvas chairs un- 
 
OLD PANAMA 23 
 
 der the galvanized iron roof of the upper deck 
 — so generally peaceful are those seas that the 
 awning is permanent— and watched the South- 
 ern Cross flickering dimly above the southern 
 horizon. The cigars glowed in silence for, 
 though it was the hour for yarning, each bash- 
 fully hung back. Then an engineer started. 
 The Philippines, Alaska, the boom camps, 
 Mexico rose in successive backgrounds and then 
 the talk shifted round to our respective objec- 
 tives down this long coast. One was for the 
 nitrate fields, one for the Peruvian silver mines, 
 and one for the rich placer banks of the far in- 
 terior. The one who was bound for an exami- 
 nation of Peruvian silver mines — a mountain of 
 a man — finally made a confidence: 
 
 " Gold," he remarked as an obvious prelim- 
 inary, " gold — or silver, I'm a Bryan man — is 
 generally good enough for anyone, but if I had 
 my choice I don't mind saying that I'd rather 
 have a coal mine down here in South America 
 than either or anything! " 
 
 The others sighed enviously. A coal mine in 
 South America where there is no coal except 
 that from Australia and Wales and where 
 a couple of hundred miles from the coast it is 
 
24 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 worth twenty dollars, gold, a ton! A coal mine 
 — well — it is the stuff of which dreams are made 
 in South America. 
 
 " Yessir," he went on raptly, " coal is the 
 thing. And I don't mind admitting that I've 
 got it." 
 
 He hauled a black object from his pocket 
 and held it out. Eagerly it was snatched from 
 his hand. There it was, hard, shiny, black, 
 varying in no way from those in the kitchen 
 scuttle at home — a splendid sample of anthra- 
 cite coal! It was too good. They laughed. 
 
 "Bring it from home?" they asked pleas- 
 antly. 
 
 The mountainous engineer chuckled con- 
 tentedly. " That's anthracite and as fine a speci- 
 men as I ever saw. I don't mind talking a little 
 freely since I've got it covered in an iron-clad 
 contract.' 
 
 " You see," he went on good-naturedly, " I'm 
 always wide awake and the morning we left the 
 Boca a young chap came aboard — American, 
 too, and right pleasant spoken — where I was 
 sort of loafing and we got acquainted. To make 
 a long story short, he'd been wandering around 
 up in the back country of Colombia and had 
 
OLD PANAMA 25 
 
 located this coal. He didn't have any special 
 idea of what coal meant down these ways — he 
 was from Pennsylvania, son of a pit boss or 
 something and coal was as common to him as 
 water to a duck — but when he pulled out a 
 couple of these samples you bet I froze fast. 
 He tried to be mighty quiet and mysterious 
 when he saw I was interested — you know how 
 such a chap is when he thinks he's got a good 
 thing, and he was sort of on the beach, down 
 on his luck you know — but I pumped him all 
 right. 
 
 " He had a fool idea of going home as best he 
 could and then taking the family sock and comr 
 bining it with other family socks and coming 
 back and opening up his coal mine." The big 
 engineer chuckled again. "Why there's a 
 king's fortune in that mine, so your Uncle Jim 
 stepped right in and tied him up close. I cabled 
 my principals and I'll get a cable when we reach 
 Callao. This coal makes their silver look like 
 thirty cents. Of course, I wasn't going to take 
 any chances at this stage — it might be phony — 
 but that fellow is on the level. Said he wouldn't 
 take any money down — not that I'd have given 
 it by a long shot — but after I got back he'd join 
 
26 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 me and come back into Colombia. He gave me 
 a map of the location in case of accident." 
 
 " Gave him no money — poor fellow, art for 
 art's sake? " asked one. 
 
 " Well, yes," the big man nodded good- 
 humoredly, " thirty dollars — enough to take 
 him back to the States steerage — I felt almost 
 ashamed. Said he didn't need any more to get 
 home with — that sounded on the level, didn't it? 
 He'd had a tough time all right — fever, grub 
 and etcetery back in the country — and was down 
 to dungaree breeches, rope-soled shoes, and one 
 of these slimpsey native calico jackets." 
 
 " And he could roll a cigarette with one hand 
 better than most can with two? " I asked. 
 
 The big engineer paused for an instant's 
 thought and then suddenly sat up. No wonder 
 my friend of the Fifth Army Corps and the 
 dungaree breeches, alpargatas, and battered 
 Panama and muslin jacket had suddenly disap- 
 peared. Thirty large, golden dollars of real 
 money, good at par in the States or for three 
 pecks of local paper collateral anywhere on the 
 Mosquito Coast! And all that for one paltry 
 little yarn. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 THE FIGHTING WHALE AND CHINAMEN IN THE 
 CHICKEN COOB 
 
 THE hot days drifted by in easy sociability, 
 dividing themselves into a pliant routine. 
 The morning was devoted to golf on the 
 canvas covered deck over a nine-hole course 
 chalked around ventilators, chicken-coops and 
 deck-houses. Crook-handled canes furnished 
 the clubs and three sets of checkers were lost 
 overboard before we reached the Guayas River, 
 the little round men skidding flatly over the 
 deck with a pleasing accuracy only at the end 
 to rise up maliciously on one ear and roll, plop, 
 into the sea. In the white-hot afternoon, when 
 the scant breeze would quite as likely drift with 
 us, the hours were sacred to the siesta, and the 
 evenings were devoted to standardizing an in- 
 ternational, polyglot poker. 
 
 A rope stretched across the after-deck marked 
 
 27 
 
28 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 off the steerage. There was no second class 
 as a thrifty French tailor, a fine young man, and 
 his soft-voiced Mediterranean bride found out. 
 They had bought second class through to Lima 
 and at the Boca were flung in aft among the 
 half-breeds, a squabbling lot of steerage scum, 
 together with a gang of Chinamen. A line of 
 piled baggage ran lengthwise, on one side of 
 which were supposed to be the bachelors' quar- 
 ters, though somewhere between decks were 
 hutches where, if one really insisted on privacy, 
 the tropical night could be passed in a fetid 
 broil. 
 
 Through a surreptitious connivance this 
 couple were allowed quarters forward and even- 
 ing after evening the little bride would bring 
 her guitar out and play — and such playing! 
 She had been on the stage, it seemed, and from 
 opera to opera she drifted and then off into odd, 
 unheard folk songs, or the vibrant German or 
 Russian songs. Never before or since have I 
 heard such playing of a guitar or felt its pos- 
 sibilities. For us the guitar is an instrument 
 lazily plunked by the end man against two 
 mandolins. Yet there was a time when Paga- 
 nini deemed it worthy of mastery. 
 
THE FIGHTING WHALE 29 
 
 She was playing late one afternoon and we 
 were all gathered around in the dining hall. 
 There came a rush of feet overhead and a shrill, 
 excited chattering. We broke for the deck, ex- 
 pecting a mutiny among the Chinamen at the 
 very least, and there in full view, not five hun- 
 dred yards away, was a battle between a whale 
 and three thrasher sharks. In a great circle the 
 sea was churned to a foam, boiling with the 
 stroke of fin and fluke as the sharks outflanked 
 and harried the whale. 
 
 In a steady succession the sharks would shoot 
 high out of the water in a graceful, deadly curve 
 and, as they fell back, suddenly stiffen in a whip- 
 lash bend that instantly straightened at the mo- 
 ment of impact, sending a flying mass of spray 
 like that when a solid shot ricochets in gun prac- 
 tice. A few such blows and even a bulky, blub- 
 ber-coated whale would feel it. Sometimes a 
 shark would strike fair, though more often he 
 would waste his energy on the empty water as 
 the whale dove. 
 
 But the steadiness of the battering attack, 
 sometimes all three sharks in the air as though 
 by a signal, sometimes a steady procession pour- 
 ing up from the sea in a wicked arc as regular 
 
30 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 as a clock's ticking, and sometimes the frantic 
 whirling of the whale showed the submarine 
 strategists at work, while only a single shark shot 
 up in a well-aimed, whip-lash stroke. In des- 
 peration the whale would stand on its head and 
 beat the air in terrific blows with its flukes while 
 the sharks would merely wait till the flurry was 
 over and then renew their steady, wearing, 
 pounding battle. 
 
 Off at one side of the circle of beaten foam 
 was a little dark patch that paddled nervously 
 about and that we had overlooked — a whale- 
 calf. And now it was apparent why the fight 
 was fought in the diameter of a ship's length; 
 always the bulk of the grim old mother was be- 
 tween the attack and her clumsy baby; there 
 was the reason why she did not make a running 
 fight of it that would have given her a more even 
 break — for the speed of a squadron is that of its 
 slowest ship. All the advantage lay with the 
 sharks ; it was easy to see they were wearing the 
 whale down. Less often she stood on her head 
 to batter the foam hopefully with her ponderous 
 flukes; the sharks redoubled their efforts until 
 they curved in a steady, leaping line. 
 
 Along the rail of the Mapocho the passengers, 
 
THE FIGHTING WHALE 31 
 
 deck and cabin, cheered the battle as their tense 
 sympathies dictated or drew whistling breaths 
 as some crashing whip-lash went home. The 
 deep sapphire of the sea rippling under the brisk 
 evening breeze, the turquoise heaven that swept 
 down to the horizon softly shifting against the 
 sapphire contrast to a mystery of fragile green, 
 the field of battle boiling and eddying in the 
 mellow orange glow of the long rays of the set- 
 ting sun and bursting into masses of iridescent 
 spray made a noble setting worthy of the cause, 
 and in it eighty tons of mother-love and devotion 
 measuring itself in horse-power and foot-tons 
 was slowly drooping under the hail from a slim, 
 glittering, iridescent arc. 
 
 Smaller grew the fight in the distance — a mile 
 > — a mile and a half — then two-thirds of the 
 whale's bulk shot clear of the surface and she 
 fell back heavily. Once more the head went 
 down and the flukes raised themselves, lashing 
 the air in frantic desperation. The curving, 
 confident line of sharks shot upward in a grace- 
 ful curve, but this time, overconfident, they had 
 miscalculated. The great tail caught one shark 
 and he hurtled through the flying spray with a 
 broken back; the flukes crashed down on a sec- 
 
32 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 ond as he struck the water. Once only the sur- 
 viving shark leaped and missed. Alone he 
 could do no more ; the whale in one lucky stroke 
 had won. Through the glasses we could make 
 out its low mass slowly swimming off, every now 
 and then spouting a feather of spray from her 
 blow-hole as though saluting her own victorious 
 progress with a steam-whistle. 
 
 Five days out from Panama and we awoke to 
 find the Mapocho swinging to her anchor in the 
 Guayas River and awaiting the pleasure of the 
 port-doctor. On one side a distant shore loomed 
 through the heated, humid haze, on the other a 
 sluggish tide-water creek disappeared in the 
 jungle of the bank an easy rifle-shot away. A 
 ramshackle church with a huge crucifix showed 
 at one side of the port-doctor's house and here 
 and there a few houses and thatched roofs ap- 
 peared above a stretch of white beach. A few 
 black pigs wandered about, showing the only 
 signs of life. Somewhere beyond this dismal 
 outpost was Guayaquil. Already in the cap- 
 tain's quarters was a conference of the skipper, 
 the young Chilean ship's doctor fresh from 
 school and on his first trip, and the port doctor. 
 
 Prensently they emerged, the captain feebly 
 
THE FIGHTING WHALE 33 
 
 expostulating. We were to be held " under ob- 
 servation " for forty-eight hours as yellow fever 
 and bubonic suspects. That Guayaquil should 
 quarantine against anything is — at the least to an 
 ordinary sense of humor — funny, for Guayaquil 
 has never seen the time that it was likely to catch 
 anything it did not already have, except a clean 
 bill of health. 
 
 We learned for the first time that there were 
 three Chileans abroad who were being returned 
 to Chile by their consul. They were anemic, 
 destitute and sick with malarial fever; although 
 the whole coast was in a panic over yellow fever 
 and the bubonic, yet this time had been chosen 
 to ship them home some two thousand miles to a 
 Chilean hospital! They had been stowed be- 
 tween decks and the young ship's doctor had 
 made the mistake of attempting to gloss over 
 their existence, or at any rate to split the dif- 
 ference between truth and expediency, and had 
 succeeded only in exciting a peevish suspicion in 
 a marooned gentleman who had some power. 
 He did not even look at the cases — quarantine 
 forty-eight hours, and then he would return with 
 advices from the government. 
 
 A few of us went down to take a look at the 
 
34 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Chilenos whose appearance had held us up. 
 There was no formal hospital on board so a little 
 compartment had been hastily thrown up be- 
 tween decks. It was built of the loose planks 
 on which the cattle stand during the voyage; it 
 was closed on all four sides, windowless, and 
 with but a single opening for a doorway cur- 
 tained by a filthy piece of canvas. This black 
 hole, reeking with filth, was the hospital; a 
 couple of figures lay on the floor and looked up 
 dully at the sudden flare of a match while, from 
 an open cargo port, the third was tottering, a 
 shrunken wreck with the ghastly teeth of a skull 
 and socketed eyes. 
 
 At noon the purser presented each first cabin 
 passenger with a little bill for half a sovereign — 
 two dollars and a half, gold — which amount we 
 were charged for as demurrage every day in any 
 quarantine. The deck steerage paid a shilling, 
 gold, each day. 
 
 The purser, a pleasant young Chilean with an 
 Irish name, yet who spoke no word of English, 
 was the one busy man on the idle ship. In ex- 
 pectation of quarantine the occupants of the port 
 chicken coop had been transferred and now the 
 purser appeared with the first officer, the boat- 
 
THE FIGHTING WHALE 
 
 35 
 
 swain, and a few of the crew. They climbed 
 the rope and the purser jangled a chain and pad- 
 lock suggestively. One by one the shillings 
 came out. He reached the Chinamen; some 
 were dragged from below or hauled out from 
 the partition of baggage in which they had tried 
 to hide, all protesting sullenly. Those who re- 
 fused to pay were thrown into the chicken coop 
 
 THOSe WHO REFUSED TO PAY WERE THROWN INTO THE CHICKEN 
 
 COOP. 
 
 until about a dozen were jammed into its close 
 quarters. It was too low for even a small man 
 to stand upright, while its condition made it im- 
 possible to lie down so that the Chinamen squat- 
 ted on the floor or huddled up on the perches. 
 
36 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Then as they decided to pay, if the purser had 
 nothing on hand more pressing he would come 
 up and let them out. 
 
 Of those who witnessed this wretched steam- 
 ship extortion the German really enjoyed it; he 
 clucked and mimicked before the coop with 
 great gusto and then scuttled below for his 
 camera. He had scarcely focussed before the 
 free Chinamen who knew a camera were chat- 
 tering shrilly in hostile groups, the caged China- 
 men clacking angrily back, and the first officer 
 pounced upon the photographic outfit. This 
 collecting of shillings from the Chinamen and 
 the method of enforcement is no light-hearted 
 morning's pleasure and is likely at any time to 
 end seriously. Also it could be noted that in the 
 immediate background were others of the offi- 
 cers and crew following operations, and the 
 arms rack aft of the chart- room was unlocked. 
 
 Much may be said in favor of the chicken 
 coop method for there was one time, the purser 
 related, that another purser in collecting the 
 shillings used the fumigating boiler of the up- 
 per deck. Eight obstinate Chinamen were 
 shoved in and the end-lid clamped on. An 
 hour of a dark dungeon would be better than 
 
THE FIGHTING WHALE 
 
 37 
 
 the airy chicken coop, argued the astute collector 
 — for the chicken coop has been known to prove 
 so alluring that Chinamen have begun serving 
 on their second day's shilling before they had 
 
 WHEN THK HND-LID WAS TAKEN OFF, THE BODIES OE EIGHT DEAD 
 CHINAMEN WERE TAKEN OUT. 
 
 paid the first — and he was pleased at the frantic 
 scrabbling that sounded through the iron sides. 
 Then it died down — ah, the sullen apathy of the 
 race — and when the end-lid was taken off the 
 
38 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 bodies of eight dead Chinamen were taken out, 
 suffocated. It was no end of trouble to that pur- 
 ser for he had to juggle with his passenger sheet 
 and the various port officials so that the ship 
 wouldn't be held in quarantine and make the 
 captain and owners peevish and thereby lose his 
 job. Caramba, it was lucky they were China- 
 men! 
 
 Slowly the forty-eight hours on the broiling 
 river passed away. In the morning of its close 
 we looked anxiously to the nearer shore for the 
 sign of official life. Except for the straggling 
 black pigs, all was lifeless beach and jungle. 
 The hours passed. It was noon. We break- 
 fasted at that late Latin hour irritably. Pres- 
 ently the placid captain sent a string of signals 
 up the foremast. Still the creek, the strip of 
 beach, and the jungle gave forth no signs of life 
 other than the black pigs. More time passed 
 and the captain had the whistle blown at inter- 
 vals. No result. As a desperate measure he 
 had the capstan turned — a bluff for it was free 
 of the cable — but as the dismal clank of the 
 pawls carried to shore, half a dozen figures scut- 
 tled down to the creek and tumbled into the offi- 
 cial boat. A few minutes later it was at the 
 
THE FIGHTING WHALE 39 
 
 companion ladder and the port doctor was 
 mounting haughtily. 
 
 Why this uproar? The sanitary junta had 
 been notified of our arrival — what could one 
 more? A reply had been received this morning 
 — or was it the day before? — that the sanitary 
 junta was very busy, but would consider the 
 quarantine of the Mapocho at a meeting this 
 
 very night. In the meantime ! He spoke 
 
 with a patient, restrained peevishness as to an un- 
 reasonable child. 
 
 The august sanitary junta sat augustly at Gua- 
 yaquil. From this port doctor's station to Gua- 
 yaquil was some distance. To telegraph one 
 made one's report, then it was paddled across the 
 muddy tide-water creek in a dugout; then it was 
 carried on foot across the island — for this strip 
 of beach and home of the straggling black pigs 
 was but a portion of an island of some size — and 
 then across more water in a dugout and there was 
 a telegraph station! Naturally all this took 
 time. The port boat put back and the captain 
 returned to his quarters. From the stern again 
 came the sickening pop of firecrackers where the 
 Chilean crew resumed their fishing, hauling in 
 a slender, stupid variety of catfish and then toss- 
 
40 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 ing it back with a well-timed firecracker thrust 
 in its gaping throat. 
 
 We watched the shabby boat run on the beach 
 and the port doctor disappear in the jungle path. 
 The crew gathered up the oars when suddenly 
 the doctor darted back, the crew tumbled into 
 the boat, and in a flurry of ragged rowing they 
 came splashing toward us. Hope revived — a 
 release from the august sanitary junta! A bis- 
 cuit toss off they stopped. The doctor rose in 
 the sternsheets and grandly ordered us out of 
 Ecuadorean waters ; if we did not leave at once 
 we would be fired upon — by what there was no 
 intimation, it might have been a black pig from 
 a bamboo catapult for there was nothing else 
 in the way of artillery — but it sounded formal 
 and terrible. So we left. And with us went 
 five thousand packages of freight and ninety 
 sacks of mail intended for Guayaquil, and the 
 furious Ecuadorean passengers. 
 
 The Peruvians were complacent. " It is bet- 
 ter for us," they said, " than to have to put into 
 that wretched Guayaquil. Had we touched 
 that fever-infected port we would have had 
 much trouble in the Peruvian ports. Now we 
 have our clean bill of health from Panama." 
 
THE FIGHTING WHALE 41 
 
 It was beautiful optimism. I took another 
 look at the reeking hospital beteewn decks and 
 wondered if we could ever get into any port and, 
 as I turned away, two wretched, tottering skele- 
 tons passed on their way to the open cargo port. 
 They were convalescing. I hoped for the third. 
 
 Some time during the night we passed over to 
 the Peruvian coast and anchored off Payta early 
 the next morning. Two miles away a white 
 thread of slow surf broke on a thin line of blaz- 
 ing yellow beach; beyond rose a low range of 
 brown-and-yellow blufifs, the hot and arid fringe 
 of the long dessert that edges the west coast of 
 South America. Back from the edge of surf 
 spraddled a shabby, sand-blown, flea-bitten town 
 with only here and there a patch of gay red- 
 tiled roof; nowhere a strip of green or frond of 
 palm to relieve the arid deadliness of the brown- 
 and-yellow hills. 
 
 Ofif shore — there was neither bay nor bight in 
 the even line of surf — a deserted brigantine at 
 anchor dipped slowly with the long Pacific 
 swells, its yards and decks whited like a leper 
 from the unmolested frigate-birds and sea fowl 
 that made it home. Beyond, here and there, a 
 patched sail of no particular size or shape was 
 
42 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 barely filled by the lightest of breezes; occa- 
 sionally, as one crept past, the outfit developed 
 into a raft on the after part of which was a rough 
 platform of palm on which were housed the 
 Indian fisherman and his crew or family. A 
 few abandoned square tins — the well known ex- 
 
 A DESERTED BRIGANTINE AT ANCHOR DIPPED SWWLY WITH THE 
 LONG PACIFIC SWELI.S. 
 
 port tins of Rockefeller — held the drinking 
 water, an earthen pot their food, and on this 
 flimsy contraption they would put out miles to 
 sea. In beating to windward a loose board or 
 piece from a packing case is poked through the 
 crevices to act as centerboard. 
 
 Slowly creeping over the ground swells was 
 the port officer's boat; it had a uniformed crew 
 and rowed well. The Peruvians watched it 
 contentedly; por Dios, no such stupid work here 
 
THE FIGHTING WHALE 43 
 
 as in that Guayas River — buenos dias, Senor 
 C man d ante, buenos dias, Senor Doctor — and 
 they stood aside as the captain led the way into 
 his quarters, the procession closing with the nerv- 
 ous ship's surgeon and a steward with a bottle 
 of warm champagne — for there was no more ice. 
 Presently they emerged amiably and the port 
 officers put back to shore. We would be incom- 
 municado until that very afternoon and then we 
 would hear. The little boats that had clustered 
 around the Mapocho with Panama hats, fruits, 
 and suspicious looking native candy were waved 
 ashore in a cloud of disappointment. In the af- 
 ternoon back came the boat and the young sur- 
 geon prepared to meet them ceremoniously at 
 the foot of the companion ladder. He could 
 have spared himself the trouble; the little boat 
 stopped fifty feet off while the port doctor 
 handed out a judgment of five days' quarantine. 
 Twelve dollars and a half a head for the first 
 cabin and a dollar and a quarter, gold, for the 
 steerage, and all additional! Going into quar- 
 antine was not, from a purely business stand- 
 point, without its profits. And also the Ecuado- 
 reans and the Peruvians once more met with a 
 common bond of sympathy. 
 
44 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 A barefooted Chileno sailor who had been al- 
 ready to haul down the big yellow pest flag at 
 the foremast belayed the halliards permanently 
 to the bridge pin rail and trotted ofif to help in 
 putting over a small boat. This boat flying a 
 small yellow flag, was anchored a half-mile away 
 and during the days of quarantine was the only 
 means of communication with the shore. Each 
 morning through the medium of this anchored 
 boat we did the ship's business with the shore 
 and from it the steward would return with water- 
 melons, eggs, turkeys, ducks, and vegetables and 
 quinine for the doctor. Occasionally from day 
 to day the port doctor, the port captain, or a 
 member of the sanitary junta would be rowed 
 out in the official boat to look us over and the 
 tottering wrecks between the decks would be 
 mustered at an open cargo port for a distant and 
 sceptical inspection. The local steamship agents, 
 through the daily messages in the anchored boat, 
 kept us interested with the daily rumors — we 
 were a plague ship, a floating charnel house ply- 
 ing our way shamelessly from port to port, a 
 leper of the high seas shunned even by Guaya- 
 quil — and one vague and indefinite that seemed 
 to suggest that a port official contemplated a sea 
 
THE FIGHTING WHALE 
 
 45 
 
 trip in a week or so and was engineering this 
 means of giving us the pleasure of his company 
 when he was ready. It was interesting. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 THROUGH A TROPICAL QUARANTINE 
 
 ONE morning when the official sanitary 
 junta^ — the port doctor, the town drug- 
 gist, and three shopkeepers, all of whom 
 except the first, were contentedly selling us sup- 
 plies — were making their inspection within easy 
 hailing distance the returning Peruvian diplo- 
 mat dealt himself a hand in the game. In a 
 few pointed remarks he demanded that they 
 send a doctor on board to make an examination. 
 The port captain returned an indignant oration 
 in which, after paying tribute to the ancestral 
 deeds of the diplomat's forebears, he hurled 
 shame at the diplomat for his selfish lack of 
 patriotism in so distrusting the conclusions and 
 acts of his countrymen, obviously he had been 
 so enervated by effete foreign associations that 
 — that — well, it sounded like good oratory any- 
 way. There was no doubt in their minds that 
 
 we were concealing yellow fever. 
 
 46 
 
A TROPICAL QUARANTINE 47 
 
 Slowly the five days of quarantine passed with 
 this solemn official mockery. The Chinamen 
 ceased from troubling and yielded the daily 
 shilling, the chicken coop was returned to the 
 authority of the steward — although once, for 
 variety, a Chinaman shared it with a couple of 
 turkeys for some hours — and then the final day 
 arrived. 
 
 Leisurely the official boat rowed out. The 
 passengers for Ecuador, it announced, were to 
 be transferred to the leprous-looking brigantine 
 where they would remain in quarantine until 
 they could be transfered to a northbound 
 steamer. Incidentally they were privileged to 
 pay twelve sols a day, each, for board. Then 
 the official boat was rowed back; and that was 
 all. 
 
 Indignantly the passengers met and decided to 
 pay no more daily quarantine charges — it seemed 
 as if the company needed a little stimulating, 
 perhaps; the purser chuckled sympathetically 
 and then a self-appointed committee looked over 
 the chicken coop with a speculative eye. It was 
 heartening, for at least the monotony would be 
 broken. That night an unofficial boat stole out 
 of the darkness alongside; confirmed the rumor 
 
48 'ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 that the port captain was holding us for a week 
 longer to suit his convenience; then the mes- 
 senger disappeared in the night. This was 
 interesting as pure news matter and that was 
 all. 
 
 Came the morning of the sixth day without 
 change. And then the diplomat's cables to 
 Lima had effect. A doctor had been appointed 
 on a cabled order from Lima to make a real ex- 
 amination; he came out accompanied by a sani- 
 tary junta of very sour officials, climbed on 
 board, and began his work. They pulled away 
 and returned in the afternoon. 
 
 The young ship's surgeon and the new doctor 
 shouted the report across the water. Barring 
 the three cases of malarial fever between decks 
 we had a clean bill of health. The official boat 
 drew a trifle nearer; in the stern sheets the port 
 doctor scanned a formidable looking medical 
 volume that lay open on his knees and the drug- 
 gist bent his head over the same pages. Sol- 
 emnly they accepted little test tubes that the 
 ship's surgeon passed across to them and ex- 
 amined them gravely. They turned a few pages 
 of the book and asked a question. The new doc- 
 tor answered it promptly. Again they shuffled 
 
A TROPICAL QUARANTINE 49 
 
 the pages and came 
 back with another; 
 another answer, and 
 then more hasty 
 poring. 
 
 At length came 
 their decision: it 
 was true that the ex- 
 cellent doctors had 
 
 described 
 
 such 
 
 were 
 
 for 
 
 fever 
 
 WHAT TH^ DIPLOMAT SAID WAS DI- 
 RECT AND VOLUBLE. 
 
 no 
 symptoms as 
 standardized 
 either yellow 
 or the peste bubon- 
 ica, but there was 
 nothing to prevent 
 those doctors from 
 stating and confirming that which was not true; 
 therefore be it resolved that we had yellow 
 fever, but were concealing it! They were the 
 incorruptible guardians of a nation's health. 
 
 What the diplomat said was direct and voluble 
 and carried perfectly across the calm evening 
 sea : Heaven was a sad witness of his unpatriotic 
 perfidy for he threatened them with a touch of 
 patriotism direct from Lima upon the hour of 
 
50 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 his arrival — however distant or uncertain that 
 might be. A little conference and they voted on 
 our admission, two and two — could anything be 
 fairer! Their honest hearts thanked Heaven 
 for the thought of this simple and adroit dead- 
 lock that preserved their official activities and at 
 the same time kept us in a profitable quarantine. 
 Tersely it was pointed out by the diplomat that 
 by virtue of the cabled commission the new 
 doctor was a member of the board — vote again! 
 
 That evening we wandered through the dust 
 and sand of Payta and rode grandly, and briefly, 
 to the out-skirts of the town in the single mule- 
 and-rope tram that skirted the beach. It is well 
 in the troubled times of quarantine on the West 
 Coast always to travel with an accredited diplo- 
 mat on board. 
 
 All next day the whirr and clatter of the steam- 
 winches and the bang of cargo kept up and again 
 we visited the dusty port, wading through the 
 lines of Panama hat sellers that lined up to greet 
 the landing of our small boat. Of hotel runners 
 there were none, this being due to the fact that 
 there was but one hotel to which the stray custom 
 is bound to drift. At the hotel we saw a few 
 palms and tropical blooms in tubs and in a care- 
 
C/3 
 
 > 
 
 C>0 
 
 O 
 
 x: 
 
 c 
 
 CO 
 
 
 C 
 
 3 
 
 < 
 
A TROPICAL QUARANTINE 51 
 
 fully irrigated patio, for Payta is — like all that 
 West Coast — rainless. As a cold matter of 
 meteorological fact it does rain sometimes ; I ac- 
 cidentally started an acrimonious discussion by a 
 merely polite remark on the weather as to 
 whether it had been nine, eleven, or fourteen 
 years since the last rain. In apparent proof of 
 this there is a wide, dusty canal bulkheaded with 
 piling on either side which in these intervals be- 
 tween showers serves as a native market. Little 
 red flags flutter from the chicherias where the 
 opaque, yellow, Indian corn beer is sold, rang- 
 ing in flavor and potency from warm buttermilk 
 to the wicked " stone-fence " of New Jersey. 
 
 Back of the town a trail wades through the 
 sand to the crest of the long bluffs ; the feet of 
 countless pack trains have worn a driveway 
 through the ridge until, stepping through, there 
 are suddenly spread before the view the endless 
 stretches of a dried and dusty desert that has been 
 an ocean's prehistoric bed. The hot airs quiver 
 and boil from the twisting valleys or ridges of 
 blistering sand and rock and through the pulsing 
 heat the occasional pack train in the distance 
 turns to a wavering, shimmering thread. To 
 the imagination a desert rises as a dull, gray ex- 
 
52 
 
 u4CR0SS THE ANDES 
 
 CI,OSe RElSEMBIvANC]^ TO AN ARMY OF DRUNKEN BUGS. 
 
 panse endless in its colorless monotony; here 
 there was a riot of color, every hue, raw and 
 gorgeous — except green — from the soft purples 
 and cool sapphire of the shadows to the blazing 
 yellows and reds and white of the open spaces. 
 And in the garish stretch of a dead ocean there 
 slowly rises like a parching thirst a longing for 
 a sweep of tender green. 
 
 The little governmental touch from Lima 
 had cleared the path of quarantine and we began 
 a dot-and-carry-one course down the coast from 
 Payta; every day our winches whirred and clat- 
 tered off some dusty, sand-blown port. Before 
 our anchor had touched bottom in the open road- 
 stead a fleet of lanchas, heavy, double-ended, 
 open lighters of from ten to twenty-five tons ca- 
 pacity were crawling over the water; the dozen 
 long oars that were their means of locomotion — ■ 
 and that were manipulated on an independent 
 
 J 
 
A TROPICAL QUARANTINE 53 
 
 competitive basis — spraddled on each side gave 
 the fleet a close resemblance to an army of 
 drunken bugs struggling forward on uncertain 
 legs. There was always a race to the Mapocho's 
 side and the first to get there caught the heaving 
 line. 
 
 Once a lancha defeated in a close finish came 
 on and cut the heaving line so that its rival was 
 left with the useless section while it hurriedly 
 hauled in on the hawser. Instantly a fine naval 
 engagement was in progress as the lanchas 
 locked like a couple of old Carthaginian gal- 
 leys. By the aid of force peace was established 
 and the rightful and original award of the 
 hawser sustained; had it not been, as the first 
 officer explained, they would need a new heav- 
 ing line at every port. 
 
 The bluffs of the coast gave way to hills and 
 these in turn to higher ones; the Andes were 
 closing in on the Pacific. At times the great 
 mountain chain towered from the very water's 
 edge in a succession of steep cliffs, each receding 
 tier softening in the distance and rising through 
 the slowly shifting strata of clouds until only 
 the gashes of white snow picked out the tower- 
 ing peaks. Here and there steep, rocky islets 
 fringed the coast line and we stood far out to save 
 the chances, and yet there was no appreciable 
 
54 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 change in the proportions of the tremendous 
 mountain range. The sense of proportion and 
 distance was lost in the comparison of these vast 
 reaches. A rocky islet, a steep sugar-loaf affair, 
 rose from the ocean perhaps five feet — not much 
 as an island or a mountain peak. Through the 
 binoculars a tiny unknown speck at the base de- 
 veloped into a full-rigged bark with tapering 
 masts above which the sugar-loaf rock rose for 
 thousands of feet in the clear air, and on it was 
 a wretched colony of guano workers. 
 
 Then the coast opened out into level reaches 
 again with occasional lines of irrigation ditches 
 showing a thread of green. Occasionally — 
 twice I think — there was actually a landlocked 
 harbor. It was one of these, Chimbote, that 
 James G. Blaine proposed to use or secure as a 
 naval base and coaling station. It is perfectly 
 sheltered with a narrow, bottle-neck entrance 
 guarded by a rocky island in the middle which is 
 covered with a wriggling film of seals that are 
 perfectly indifferent to the close passage of ships 
 or men. 
 
 In this harbor rode the queerest of sea-going 
 craft. In Mexico I had once seen a Chinaman 
 fit himself up a home from about eight feet of 
 
Every Day our Winches Whirred and Clattered off some Dusty; 
 Sand-blown Port 
 
A TROPICAL QUARANTINE 55 
 
 one end of a hopelessly wrecked dugout, take in a 
 partner, and then the two of them paddle off up 
 the river in the fishing business, sleeping and 
 eating aboard the flat-iron shaped thing. Here 
 in this case was a bow and stern bolted together 
 without a midship section. And both the bow 
 and stern were those of a fairly full size tramp 
 freighter. The bow was the ram bow of a war 
 ship and back of it there was barely room to 
 squeeze in a capstan and a tiny hatch; the fore- 
 mast shared the bridge, a funnel and whistle 
 jammed themselves up against the bridge, while 
 the short distance to the stern rail gave room for 
 a squat cabin out of which rose the mainmast. 
 A score of Chimbote lanchas were as big — big- 
 ger — and where this telescoped liner would find 
 room for cargo or coal after providing for en- 
 gines and a galley is a mystery. Yet it does 
 carry cargo and ambles along from port to port 
 a tragic marvel of compression. 
 
 The day before, off Huanchazo, where a storm 
 far out had piled up a heavy, oily groundswell, 
 that even put the racks on the tables, a wealthy 
 old Peruvian lady had been hoisted abroad in a 
 cask clinging to her son. She was a garrulous 
 old soul, powdered like a marshmallow, with 
 
56 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 three chins and a little moustache, and her son 
 was the very apple of her eye. Therefore, son 
 was what one might expect. His adolescent and 
 mature ambition was to be the amorous cut-up of 
 the coast and so far he had succeeded generously 
 in making a smug, self-satisfied nuisance of him- 
 self. He counted doting mother's allowance 
 publicly, drank warm champagne noisily when 
 thrifty mother was not around, and dressed in 
 the Huanchazo idea of French fashions for men. 
 In the morning he did not appear. Mother ex- 
 plained fondly — but not the truth. She did not 
 know it. 
 
 Passengers are warned not to go between decks 
 after dark, the steerage hutches and the crew 
 have the freedom of that deck. Son prowled 
 down on some shifty little romantic project of 
 his own. In the darkness he suddenly felt two 
 sharp little pricks in the skin of his back and one 
 sharp little prod in front; they felt very, very 
 much like the points of knives. Up went son's 
 hands promptly and in the blackness he felt 
 heavy hands pulling out his maternal allowance 
 — the beautiful money with which he was to 
 flaunt his fascinations in Lima. Hence no Li- 
 manean gay life — mother it seemed was a thrifty 
 
A TROPICAL QUARANTINE 57 
 
 Spartan in money matters — and son was in his 
 berth, weeping. A steward told us the latter, 
 confidentially of course. 
 
 Samancho, Chimbote, Salivari, Suppe, and 
 then at last, in the daybreak of the morning after 
 the last named and in the midst of a soft, clouded 
 day, Callao. There was the usual customs 
 search of the baggage — a maddening process to 
 an Englishman, mildly irritating to a French- 
 man, and accepted meekly and placidly by 
 Americans as a matter of course from a thorough 
 training in our own home ports. I have never 
 passed through any country that could give as 
 close an imitation of our own thorough methods 
 of dock robbery and tariff brigandage as Peru. 
 A quarter of an hour by train through a rich 
 soil that can be worked only by irrigation and 
 Lima, the first halt on the continent, has been 
 attained. 
 
 For two weeks there was nothing to do but to 
 idle in Lima. A delightful city full of the old 
 contrasts of highly civilized, sybaritic pleasures 
 alongside of the squalid, aimless poverty of the 
 survivors of a devastated empire. There is the 
 Bois where fashionable equipages with cockaded, 
 copper-colored lackeys — possibly in bare or san- 
 
58 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 daled feet — on the box, silver-mounted harness 
 and heavy, Chilean bred coach horses jingle past 
 in procession on Sunday afternoons while some 
 gallant Peruano lopes alongside with huge silver 
 stirrups and a saddle almost solid with bullion; 
 the sodden side streets where the buzzard and the 
 scavenger pig are man's best friend ; the cathe- 
 dral where lies the dessicated body of Pizarro 
 in a marble casket like an aquarium, the one open 
 side covered with glass through which may be 
 seen the remains of that treacherous old buc- 
 caneer, with his head re-fastened by a silver wire 
 to guard against a repetition of the theft; the 
 cathedral itself with its murky interior smoked 
 by the votive candles of millions of conscript 
 converts ; its queer carvings where the ecclesias- 
 tical memories of architecture have been freely 
 rendered by the Indian stone- cutters ; the clubs, 
 the cafes — and the ambrosial coffee — chapels 
 with the bullion covered walls, the wretched 
 tobacco at high tariff — extorted prices — all these 
 and then the Hotel Maury. 
 
 Peace be to Savarin, to Delmonico, and to 
 Chamberlain. They did well in their way. But 
 they never served a squid, or cuttlefish, floating 
 like a small hjt- water bottle, tender and delici- 
 
Lima a Delightful City cA Contrasts 
 
d TROPICAL QUARANTINE 59 
 
 ous in an inky sauce of their own founding; nor 
 a starfish sprawled in a five-pointed dream of 
 savory, lobster-like succulence; nor '' sefioritas" 
 — a delicate species of scallop — each with its 
 tiny scarlet tongue draped across the pearl-white 
 bivalve bosom and that, steamed or not, melted 
 in one supreme ecstatic flavor; nor five inch 
 langostin fresh from the cold waters of the An- 
 dean hills, nor compounded or invented a straw- 
 berry gin cocktail of surpassing allurement — 
 cooled by a piece of ice kept in a flannel-lined 
 drawer and returned thereto after stirring. 
 None of these things had they and so by just 
 that much they fell short. 
 
 In the Hotel Maury there was a written bill 
 of fare for those who could merely read. But 
 for the expert, the fastidious — or the adventur- 
 ous — there was a redoubt in the main room 
 whose flanking bastions and crest were a solid ar- 
 ray of great joints and little joints, steaks, chops, 
 unnamed fish in platoons and senoritas in bri- 
 gades, fruits, vegetables and all of the foregoing 
 — and more — laid out in tiers and terraces whose 
 foundations were of cool, inviting seaweeds and 
 mosses, and still further seductively embellished 
 with a variety of paper ribbons and crests and 
 
 I 
 
6o ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 cockades until one almost lost sight of the pago- 
 das of gaudy, many-storied cakes and confec- 
 tions that rose like watch towers at judicious in- 
 tervals along the battlements. It was a salon. 
 To the shuffling, woolen-capped, sandaled, or 
 bare-footed Indian at one's heels the directions 
 were given, you chose what you would as they 
 thus reposed in the altogether and then repaired 
 to await in a sawdust-floored cavern at one side 
 and in a state of serene and expectant bliss the 
 certain pleasures of the very immediate future. 
 You waited, it is true, at a warped table with a 
 stained cloth on which a bent cruet supplied the 
 only note of elegence. And, lest any of the pre- 
 cious viands be lost in transit or breakage, you 
 knew that you would be served with a substantial, 
 hard-shell crockery only slightly more vulner- 
 able than reinforced concrete. Presently your 
 Indian reappeared in a shuffling trot scattering 
 sawdust from the prow of each sandal like a har- 
 bor pile-driver under full speed — the hard-shell 
 crockery is white hot, but he has the hands of a 
 salamander — and then with a flourish he drops 
 an assorted collection of tableware somewhere 
 within reach — you are served. And what a re- 
 past! Peace be to Savarin, Delmonico and — 
 
I 
 
 A TROPICAL QUARANTINE 6i 
 
 enough. Comparisons are invidious and the 
 Maury can stand alone in the continent of his 
 choosing. 
 
 Very shortly the sailing day came for, since 
 it was not possible to land in Mollendo owing to 
 that port being afflicted with a quarantine, it had 
 been necessary to catch a steamer that would put 
 us through the surf at Quilca, a hole in a cliff 
 that has its only function in these times of quar- 
 antine. A farewell inspection of the redoubt and 
 and bastions, a recharging of the bottle of salicy- 
 lic acid and alcohol, which while it had in no 
 way abated the fleas of the Hotel Maury, yet had 
 mitigated their consequences, and Lima and Cal- 
 lao drifted into the background with the closing 
 day. From Quilca in some way we would con- 
 nect by muleback and packtrain across the desert 
 to the desert station of La Joya with the railroad 
 to Arequipa and thence to Lake Titicaca and 
 across to La Paz. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 A FORCED MARCH ACROSS THE DESERT OF ATACAMA 
 
 THE Stand-by bell of the Limari tinkled 
 from her engine-room, our baggage and 
 freight were safely stowed in the wallow- 
 ing Peruvian lanchas alongside, and the Bolivian 
 mail followed. The Captain of the Port and 
 the Inspector of Customs balanced down the 
 swaying gangway and dropped into the gig 
 alongside. We followed. 
 
 Before us stretched the long, barren line of 
 rocky coast, fading away in the soft mist of a 
 Peruvian winter. For it is winter here, damp 
 and chill, in September. Directly ahead is a 
 narrow, ragged break in the cliffs. Inside is 
 Quilca, the side door to La Paz in days of quar- 
 antine. 
 
 We cross the barrier of half-concealed rock 
 before us, and soon we are in the smooth waters 
 of the canon beyond. On either side the red vol- 
 
 62 
 
I 
 
 THE DESERT OF ATACAMA 63 
 
 canic bluffs rise for perhaps two hundred feet, 
 their faces scarred and seamed or beaten into 
 grotesque forms by the Pacific of ages past. Up 
 this defile we rowed for several hundred yards, 
 then we rounded a ragged promontory, and the 
 full glories of the metropolis of Quilca burst 
 upon us. A broken flight of steps led from the 
 water, and, back of it all, two thin straggling 
 lines of woven-cane huts bounded the solitary 
 street. Two houses, more dismally pretentious 
 than the rest, with mud walls and corrugated- 
 iron roofs, marked the local seat of government. 
 In the distance rose the red volcanic hills, dull, 
 flat, and shadowless under the clouded sky of 
 the tropical winter. This was all of Quilca. 
 
 We had cabled from Lima for horses and a 
 pack-train to meet us and bring us over the 
 desert of San Jose, where we could get the train 
 to the interior. 
 
 The morning after our arrival we were awak- 
 ened by the clatter of the pack-mules as they 
 passed our quarters, and the '^ Hola, holaf 
 Huish, huishr^ of their arrieros. It was our 
 train. 
 
 In the middle of the lone street the arrieros 
 were busy lashing our smaller packages in raw- 
 
64 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 hide nets. Scattered about in the sand were the 
 larger cases of freight — prospecting machinery 
 and mining hardware — amounting to a little 
 over a ton in weight; and still under the guard 
 of Agamemnon in our quarters of the night was 
 the personal equipment — trunks, instruments, 
 rifles, shotguns, cartridges and powder and shot 
 ■ — making nineteen hundred pounds more. And 
 blocking the only thoroughfare of Quilca were 
 the twelve pack-mules — long-haired, discon- 
 solate animals, with pepper-and-salt complex- 
 ions, save where patches of bare hide showed 
 the chafing of the pack-ropes. They looked as 
 though our own regulation army load of two 
 hundred pounds per mule would be far too great. 
 And they were to divide four thousand pounds 
 among them. 
 
 It was eleven o'clock in the forenoon when the 
 last diamond-hitch was thrown and the last pack 
 lashed in place. The arrieros swung their long, 
 knotted rawhide thongs, the saddle-galled bell- 
 mare clanged as she led the way, and we climbed 
 into our saddles and fell in behind the straggling 
 mules as they led the way up the dismal street 
 and out into the desert. 
 
 The trail rose sharply as it left Quilca, and 
 
t 
 
 THE DESERT OF ATACAMA 65 
 
 then wound around to the right, where it joined 
 the old desert road used by the Spaniards after 
 their conquest, and for centuries before that by 
 the Incas in their barter with the coast. On each 
 side rose white walls of rotten rock, higher than 
 our heads as we rode by, the path between them 
 worn down by plodding hoofs for untold ages. 
 Upon this path the rock was ground to a fine 
 white powder that rose in clouds and covered 
 us until we looked ahead as through the mists 
 of a fog. Vaguely, over the walls, the ragged 
 volcanic hills silhouetted against the sky. 
 
 We kept on ascending between these winding 
 walls, at length emerging on a narrow table-land 
 ' — the top of the cliffs we had seen from the decks 
 of the Limari, A short distance over the level 
 ground, and then from the farther edge we 
 looked down on the flat, stony bottom of the 
 Vitor Valley — a ragged gorge that wound a tor- 
 tuous course through the desert. A narrow trail 
 with short, sharp angles zigzagged down a steep 
 gully to the bottom. The mules carefully picked 
 their way down among the loose stones, halting 
 inquiringly at times to choose perhaps a shorter 
 cut. If it seemed to their instinct feasible, they 
 gathered their hind legs under them, their front 
 
66 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 hoofs sticking stiffly out in front, and slid down 
 on their bellies, in a cloud of dust, carrying with 
 them a small avalanche of loose shale as they 
 landed in a section of the trail below. 
 
 You sit back in your saddle — all saddles in 
 these parts have cruppers and breastplates to pre- 
 vent your sliding over the animal's ears as you go 
 down or slipping off behind as you go up a moun- 
 tain path — and as you watch the tossing line of 
 packs below, the speculation forces itself as to the 
 consequences of a mule's misstep. That it is not 
 all idle speculation is shown by the scattered 
 skeletons below in the valley, bleached to vary- 
 ing degrees of dull white. 
 
 We do not descend to the pavement of river- 
 washed stones on the bed of the valley. Twenty 
 yards above, the trail leads abruptly off to the 
 left into a narrow ditch worn in the face of the 
 cliff, which in places has been scooped out to al- 
 low for the width of the packs, leaving an inse- 
 cure overhang of rock above. 
 
 For miles we followed the contour of the val- 
 ley, clinging to the steep slopes and the sides of 
 the cliffs that hedged it in. Then down a clayey 
 bank the trail started diagonally across the bot- 
 tom of the valley to the farther side. Occasion- 
 
THE DESERT OF ATACAMA 67 
 
 ally we would come suddenly on a little clearing 
 where two or three Indians, grisly through the 
 ashen grime, were burning charcoal — little twigs 
 scarcely bigger than one's finger. We came out 
 at the farther side of the valley against the cliffs 
 of the mesa beyond. On the little stony flat be- 
 fore them, three straggling huts of woven cane 
 with thatched roofs of barley straw marked a 
 lonely hacienda. A few dirty Indians and their 
 slatternly wives lounged about. A short dis- 
 tance beyond, the trail led over the steep talus at 
 the base of the cliffs ; then on up through a nar- 
 row, wedge-shaped crevice that wound back and 
 forth in short ascending turns, till it disappeared 
 over the edge of the mesa a thousand feet above. 
 For miles on either side it was the only break in 
 the cliff; and as we looked at the stiff prospect 
 ahead of us, the rocky descent of a few hours be- 
 fore seemed like gentle morning exercise in the 
 park. 
 
 For a short distance the trail ran straight up 
 over the loose shale ; then the real ascent began. 
 Ten yards to the right, then ten to the left, and 
 steeper with each change. The mules humped 
 their backs and scratched along on the toe of the 
 hoof, choosing their foothold with the nice pre- 
 
68 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 cision of a cat crossing a sprinkled street. Two 
 turns to the right, then two to the left; then a rest 
 of half a minute, when without urging they 
 would recommence the ascent. Slowly and tedi- 
 ously we climbed, and finally rode out on a 
 broad, level plateau that stretched away and 
 merged with the desert hills of the distance. Be- 
 low us toiled our pack-train, tediously weaving 
 back and forth on the zigzag trail. As each 
 section reached the level ground, the arriero dis- 
 mounted and went among his animals, talking 
 mule-talk and easing loads to a better balance or 
 tightening the stretched cinches. All the un- 
 kept, hairy sides were heaving with heavy 
 breaths. A few lay down — a bad sign in a pack- 
 animal. But in twenty minutes every mule was 
 apparently as fresh as ever, wandering about and 
 foraging on the stiff, wiry bunch-grass of the 
 arid soil. And when we started they stepped off 
 easily under their loads, with their long ears 
 briskly flapping. The two small arrieros left us 
 here and returned to Quilca, for the chief dif- 
 ficulties were passed, and the rest was but per- 
 sistent plodding over the desert to San Jose. 
 
 The trail over the plateau had been worn in 
 parallel furrows like the thin strip of a newly 
 
THE DESERT OF ATACAMA 69 
 
 ploughed field. Each mule chose his furrow 
 and insistently walked there, resenting the effort 
 of any of the others to get in ahead of him. 
 When a collision occurred you could hear the 
 rattle of nail-kegs and the clatter of shovels, 
 picks, and hardware a half-mile off as they 
 butted and shoved for the right of way. Our 
 two remaining arrieros rode in the rear, muffled 
 in their gaudy woolen ponchos. Occasionally a 
 lean arm would shoot out from under its folds 
 and the knotted thong bite the flank of some lag- 
 ging mule. These mule-drivers' thongs are long, 
 braided strips of rawhide spliced into the curb- 
 rein — they use no snaffle — ending in a heavy 
 knot. Its twelve or fourteen feet lie coiled in 
 the bridle-hand until called into service. Then 
 with a twist of the wrist, it feeds rapidly out 
 through the right hand, humming like a sawmill 
 as it circles round his head, and landing with a 
 thwack that generally corrects the indisposition 
 for which it is intended. Often the arrieros imi- 
 tate its vicious hum, and it will frequently prove 
 sufficient. 
 
 The trail was distinct enough — there was no 
 fear of wandering away from it — a slender ditch 
 worn in the bed of the arroyo. Here and there 
 
70 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 a ragged little hole dug in the soft walls of white 
 rock marked the lonely home of some desert bad- 
 ger ; and again we would ride past whole colonies 
 of them. In these badger villages the holes 
 fairly honeycombed the sides of the trail and the 
 bluff walls of the arroyos, and the shuffling claw- 
 marks of the badger trails scarred the dust in all 
 directions. There were no other signs of life; 
 not even the scaly windings of a lizard were to 
 be seen, and the sparse patches of bunch-grass 
 had long since disappeared. 
 
 Mile after mile we pushed up these narrow 
 valleys. The badger-holes disappeared, and 
 strange desert growths began to appear from 
 time to time. As we had ascended, the clouds 
 had seemed to lower, and now we could see on 
 either hand the light mists floating about us. 
 
 One more steep loomed ahead. We pushed 
 through the damp strata of mists clinging to its 
 sides, and came out on the flat land above in the 
 long level rays of the setting sun. Below us, 
 over the clouds, it cast its cold, blue shadows 
 and sparkling high lights, transforming those 
 shifting, unstable vapors into rippling waves of 
 golden foam. To the east the whole desert 
 glowed with color. The long furrows of the 
 
THE DESERT OF ATAGAMA 71 
 
 trail wove themselves in patterns of orange and 
 purple. Rolling shadows, rich in their chang- 
 ing violets, faded slowly and softly away to the 
 left. Gorgeous reds and scarlets, madders, 
 oranges, crimsons — every brilliant color of the 
 palette — spread in glowing masses, changing 
 with each minute of the dying day. The saddle- 
 stiffness, cracked lips, and parched throat, dry 
 with the alkaline dust, were forgotten — even the 
 dismal clank of the bell-mare slowly toiling in 
 the lead mellowed to a far-off chime — and in 
 those few brief moments of the vanishing day we 
 felt the subtle desert spell. 
 
 The shadows grew colder and merged one into 
 another ; the desert dimmed, a few stars glistened, 
 and, as though a door had closed behind us, we 
 passed into the night. Twilight is short in the 
 tropics. Down by the horizon on our right the 
 Southern Cross slowly lighted up — four strag- 
 gling points of light that feebly struggled with 
 the blazing stars about them. We closed in be- 
 hind the swaying shadow of the mules, from 
 which came the subdued rattle of packs and 
 creaking cinches, that were the only sounds to 
 disturb the dark stillness. It was but a little way 
 now; in another hour we would be in camp. 
 
72 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Out of the shadow ahead came the clash of 
 picks and shovels, the rattle of a load as it struck 
 the sand, and the swaying shades of the mules 
 divided around a black mass stretched on the 
 trail. It was the first note of exhaustion. For 
 twelve hours the mules had plodded at the same 
 steady gait, rested only by the halt on the cliff, 
 miles back, and the wonder of it was that, with 
 their loads, none had dropped before. As we 
 rode up we could see against the faint starlit 
 ground the sprawling silhouette of the beast, 
 lying as he fell, the long, expressive ears limp 
 on the desert sand. The arrieros dismounted 
 and pried him on his feet again, and patiently he 
 hit the trail. In the next half-hour four more 
 went down. At one time half our mules were 
 down, and we strung out over the desert for two 
 miles picking them up. 
 
 A few minutes later we swung off to the right, 
 stumbling through a series of broken ditches — 
 the remains of the old Inca irrigation systems 
 that ran for miles back into the Andes. Then 
 we dropped down steep winding paths, our 
 shoulders scraping against walls of sand as we 
 turned to the right or left around the corners. 
 The mules apparently understood that a camp 
 
THE DESERT OF ATACAMA 73 
 
 was not far ahead, and seemed fresher. Soon 
 we rode out on a flat, sitting straight in our sad- 
 dles once more, with the hard rattle of stone* 
 underfoot and the cool wet sound of running 
 water just ahead. Then the noiseless, padded 
 ground of a corral, and the mules lay down and 
 we climbed out of our saddles. It was the camp 
 at last. 
 
 A dried old Indian appeared from somewhere, 
 and by the light of his tallow dip I made out 
 the time — half past three in the morning. We 
 had come seventy-six miles without water or rest. 
 
 At a little after six we were awake. The sun 
 was rising above the cliffs that lined the valley, 
 though the chill of the night air still lingered. 
 Coffee awaited us in the openwork cane hut of 
 the Indian proprietor of this hacienda, and as 
 soon as we finished it we would start. In the 
 daylight we could see that we were in a broad 
 level valley. Through the center of the valley 
 ran a brook — a portion of the same Vitor River 
 of the day before, but now dwindled to a tiny 
 thread. About us clustered a few buildings with 
 low walls of broken stone from some Inca ruin. 
 A short distance off was the mission church of 
 the desert, announced by a cross of two twigs tied 
 
74 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 with a strip of rawhide and surmounting an ex- 
 crescence of broken stones evidently intended as 
 a steeple. We drank the thick, black coffee, for 
 which the Indian refused both money and pres- 
 ents, and at seven o'clock we started. 
 
 It was all white sand now, and everywhere the 
 same hot, white glare hedged us in. There was 
 not a breath of air, and as the sun rose higher 
 it beat down with a constantly growing heat. 
 Then once more out on the flat desert above. 
 For endless miles it stretched, quivering in the 
 heated air of the morning. Away down in the 
 east the long line of the ragged, snow-covered 
 Andes loomed up, their summits thrust through 
 the low banks of clouds along the horizon. All 
 signs of a trail had disappeared. The little fur- 
 rows left by the passing pack-trains were filled in 
 by the hot desert winds that blow always from 
 the west. It is the unvarying steadiness of these 
 winds that causes the curious crescent-shaped 
 dunes of sand found on this desert. There were 
 thousands of these shimmering in the long dis- 
 tances of the heated glare, from little ones just 
 blown into existence and not six inches from tip 
 to tip up to great banks forty feet high and with 
 two hundred feet between the horns. Super- 
 
THE DESERT OF ATACAMA 75 
 
 heated puffs of air blew from them that struck 
 like a breath from the first run of molten slag. 
 The heat crept between your closed teeth and 
 dried your tongue. When you spoke it was from 
 the throat, and the words seemed to shrivel in 
 your mouth. 
 
 For twenty miles we plodded over the scorch- 
 ing glare, and then, far ahead, a small dark patch 
 appeared. Slowly it developed and became a 
 dull, dusty green — scraggly palms and a few 
 peach-trees; then a railroad station with a hot 
 galvanized-iron roof. It was San Jose. 
 
 In the half-hour to train-time our saddles were 
 off and stored, the baggage and freight separated 
 and shipped, and we ourselves stretched com- 
 fortably in the shade of the agent's thatched 
 porch. The Arequipa train backed in, and the 
 agent and conductor loaded the one box car, and 
 we followed our outfit in. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 AREQUIPA THE CITY OF CHURCHES 
 
 THE baking heat of the desert boiled in 
 through the open doors of the freight car, 
 the blazing sun beat down upon the roof, 
 and, inside, a thousand essences from its varie- 
 gated life simmered and blended. Together 
 with some half dozen of assorted native passen- 
 gers we had jammed ourselves in among a jumble 
 of food-stuffs and mining hardware in transit. 
 The box car banged and groaned and occasion- 
 ally halted on the desert at the hail of some 
 wayfarer whom we helped cordially up and 
 stirred into the odoriferous oven. Sociably we 
 rode in this freight car up from the desert oasis 
 of San Jose because this freight car constituted 
 the whole of the train. Farther on at Vitor 
 there was hope of a real train. 
 
 In the scant space left by the cargo I had 
 wedged myself against a stack of dried fish while 
 
 76 
 
THE CITY OF CHURCHES 77 
 
 my feet reposed easily on the body of a newly 
 dead pig on his way to the market in Arequipa 
 joggling in time to the uncertain swaying of the 
 car; Agamemnon fitted his saddle-stiff joints into 
 a niche in the freight and went peacefully to 
 sleep, indifferent to the broken barrel of lime 
 that sifted its contents over him. And so it was 
 that we pulled in to Vitor, a town that hung on 
 the edge of the desert from which rose the foot- 
 hills of the first Andean range to the eastward. 
 Stiffly we climbed down and out into the heated, 
 but untainted air and idled in the station shadow 
 until the train should signify its readiness to re- 
 ceive us. 
 
 I was passing through the patio of the station 
 when I was briefly conscious of a rush, a choked 
 snarl, and in the same instant my whole right 
 leg seemed to have stepped into a vise clamped to 
 a jig-saw; the impact spun me half around and 
 I found myself helpless in the grip of a huge, 
 flea-bitten mongrel that just lacked, by what ap- 
 peared to be a mere shadow of a margin, suf- 
 ficient power to shake me rat fashion. I judged 
 that it was about eight years afterward when an 
 Indian leisurely appeared and clattered at the 
 brute. Adroitly it let go and disappeared before 
 
78 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 I could get a sufficiently able-bodied rock out of 
 the pavement for I was unarmed, having packed 
 my gun when pre- ^\ 
 paring to leave San 
 Jose. 
 
 But it turned out 
 to have been purely 
 illusion after all, as 
 was apparent on the 
 assurances of the 
 lean buccaneer who 
 had the restaurant 
 privilege and acted 
 as station master. 
 There was not a 
 dog about the place 
 no, senor! I 
 pointed to the dor- 
 sal facade of my 
 battle-scarred per- 
 son. Caramba — 
 investigation, pron- 
 tissimol The lean 
 buccaneer called 
 and an Indian re- 
 sponded. It was ^N AREQUIPA CARRIER 
 
THE CITY OF CHURCHES 79 
 
 the same Indian who had driven off the dog. 
 He listened to the buccaneer. Then he replied 
 at length and with gestures. I listened, but it 
 was in Quechua they spoke, a dialect that sounds 
 not unlike German interpersed with an occa- 
 sional vocal imitation of a brass band. The 
 buccaneer again turned to me: 
 
 " Senor, it is as I said. There is no dog, — 
 there has been no dog, — I have no dog — it is a 
 very great pity, — I sympathize!" 
 
 It revealed to me a power of imagination I had 
 not suspected myself of possessing, though Aga- 
 memnon who was pinning up the rents and count- 
 ing the punctures still regarded it as an actual 
 occurence. 
 
 The blistering hours on the trail across the 
 desert had left us as parched as a dried sponge, 
 crackly and dusty and with brittle, peeling skins 
 ravenous for moisture. Outside the newly made- 
 up train on either side straggled a collection of 
 grimy, sand-blown Indians — mainly women — 
 peddling queer, uncertain foods from earthen 
 pots or battered tin cans that were in great de- 
 mand among the sophisticated natives while, on 
 a higher plane of dignity, a fat, placid Cholo 
 sent the first native urchin on whom his eye fell 
 
8o ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 into the station presently to deliver to you a bot- 
 tle of unripe, bilious beer as warm as the hot 
 shadow in which it had been kept. Its color, 
 foam, and the characteristic shape of the bottles 
 were means of identification, but, with the eyes 
 closed, it did not differ materially from catnip 
 tea or any of the old home remedy stand-bys. 
 And never did an orange look more nobly lusci- 
 ous, for the round, unripe, green skin of the 
 native product enfolds a heart of nectar. 
 
 From Vitor on we wound through twisting 
 gorges or steep valleys, barren of all save cactus 
 and the desert shale and boulders. Steadily the 
 train climbed. Always on one side or the other 
 were the traces of the old Inca empire and its 
 industrious dominion ; here a fragmentary stretch 
 of road and a ruined gateway, now and again the 
 almost obliterated ruins of some old town or vil- 
 lage, but always, running along the sides of the 
 steep hills or through the valleys, the dusty re- 
 mains of a tremendous system of irrigation 
 ditches. Where once has been a busy land, soft 
 with the green of growing things, there are the 
 cactus and the badger and the occasional baked- 
 mud hut of an Indian wringing a dull living 
 from the desert, Heaven knows how, where his 
 
m ' 
 
 
 ^H 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 •* ** ' - *»■ '' 
 
 H 
 
 ^KaW 
 
 ^^B^^^^^^m^^^^^^t-V^ffli^BJ^^Bi 
 
 ^^B 
 
 I^Hfl^H 
 
 IwNk 
 
 SI 
 
 1 ^^^^^^^^^^|h^ 
 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 .-..'•' if tir- 
 
 ^B^. , : .^..v ^JB#^"^-^ ^jB^Bt^l^^ 
 
 ■ 
 
 • 
 
 
 9 
 
 In Arequipa the City of Churches 
 
 » 
 
THE CITY OF CHURCHES 8ii 
 
 ancestors once farmed and throve in multitudes. 
 
 The contrast stirs the dullest fancy. And on 
 the side of the spoilers for their gains? Only 
 the dessicated remains of a treacherous old pirate 
 that may be viewed — for a very moderate tip — 
 through the side of a marble aquarium back in 
 Lima as a cathedral curio and, in Europe, an 
 asthmatic and toothless Spain drained to decrepi- 
 tude by her own remorseless greed and predace- 
 ous piety. 
 
 In the long rays of the sunset the train rolled 
 across the level stretches of the high valley in 
 which lies the city of Arequipa. The low, flat 
 houses — more or less earthquake proof — and the 
 red tile roofs were radiant in the mellow glow. 
 Beyond rose the dull, volcanic slopes of Misti in 
 an immense cone, while best of all, in the one 
 story hotel of rambling patios in that city of 
 earthquakes we were once more able to collect 
 sufficient water at one time to accomplish a bath. 
 In Arequipa the first train stops exhausted; 
 manana, or at the worst only a few days later, 
 a second train leaves to climb the first high pass 
 and leave its passengers on the shores of Lake 
 Titicaca. 
 
 Throughout the city there is scarcely a build- 
 
82 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 ing that cannot show patched cracks or gaping 
 cornices that are the scars of earthquakes ; here 
 and there a heap of rock and plaster or fragmen- 
 tary walls abandoned to the Indian beggars mark 
 the years of great temblors. Rarely does a pri- 
 vate house attempt a second story and the marvel 
 is how the churches or the cathedral, with their 
 high walls and towers, have been able to survive 
 at all ! Though often cracked and battered, yet 
 in some way they have weathered the subter- 
 ranean gales. 
 
 And what a city for churches! On every 
 street, on all but every turn, there rises an ec- 
 clesiastical edifice with its grim walls of faded, 
 peeling kalsomine and its porticos, perhaps orna- 
 mented with odd stone carvings that preserve a 
 strong Indian flavor in spite of the old monkish 
 guidance. Whole blocks in the heart of the city 
 are bounded by enormous walls enclosing the 
 sacred precincts of a convent or monastery. I 
 was informed that out of every twelve inhabi- 
 tants, men, women, and children, one was in some 
 of the many orders behind the high walls. Each 
 day in some part of the city is a fiesta in honor of 
 some particular saint who is heralded and hon- 
 ored by a vast popping of firecrackers, squibs. 
 
THE CITY OF CHURCHES 83 
 
 HARDILY A DAY WITHOUT ITS SAINTS FIESTA. 
 
 and rockets and a grand procession through the 
 neighborhood. Often several saints' fiestas fall 
 on the same day and from all directions come the 
 rattle of firecrackers and the plop of the daylight 
 bombs or rockets and any casual stroll will bring 
 one against a procession heavy with the smoke 
 of incense or uncanny with the thin, wailing 
 chanting of the celebrants. 
 
 The whole city centers around an extraordi- 
 narily large central plaza on one side of which is 
 the ancient cathedral with its tiers of bells in the 
 bell tower still lashed to the massive beams by 
 
84 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 rawhide thongs. The remaining three sides are 
 business arcades of small shops, the pastries, and 
 cafes; the bullet chipped arches still confirming 
 the earnestness with which many a civil election 
 has been contested between the liberal and the 
 clerical elements after the returns were counted 
 — or, quite as often, during that process. 
 
 The chief industry is in a few machine shops 
 and central supply houses for the mines of the in- 
 terior. Outside of this there is nothing. A few 
 small shops with the cheapest and shabbiest of 
 stocks cluster around the plaza; on Sunday that 
 same plaza is scantily filled with the select of 
 Arequipa while the stocky police keep it cleared 
 of the tattered urchins and Indians of the week- 
 days. There is the dull, oppressive sense of 
 wretched poverty or genteel destitution. It is in 
 the sharpest contrast with the general run of 
 other and typical Latin cities; the whole city 
 seems to have become encysted in a hopeless 
 poverty in which any form of local energy is 
 permitted to find expression only in ecclesiasti- 
 cal fireworks or mystical parades of wailing and 
 incense. 
 
 The start from Arequipa up to Lake Titicaca 
 is made in the early morning. The huge cone 
 
THE CITY OF CHURCHES 85 
 
 AN ANDEAN TOURING CAR 
 
 of Misti — looking for all the world like a vast 
 slag dump — stands forth with telescopic detail 
 in the high, rare air mellowed in the cool morn- 
 ing sun. Prickling and glistening on the even 
 slopes or in the purple shadows, the frost still 
 clings like a lichen to the barren rocks and there 
 is a thin touch of briskness in the air like the 
 taste of fall on a September morning back home. 
 Down at the station the departure of the train 
 is in the nature of an event like the sailing of a 
 steamer. Already the train — one first-class and 
 
86 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 two second-class coaches — is filled, aisles and 
 seats, with a shuffling crowd already in the ec- 
 stacy of a noisy and mournful, but interminable 
 leave taking. Their view of the hazards of a 
 journey by rail may not be so far out of the way 
 for on the steep grades of these Andean roads a 
 train has been known to break in half and go 
 scuttling back down hill until the hand-brakes 
 take effect; also, and later, on the ancient engine 
 I observed with interest the native engineer, 
 screw down his throttle and then, in starting, 
 bang it open with a monkey wrench. 
 
 Presently, as the hour of departure drew near, 
 the conductor appeared and began sorting out 
 the passengers. Rebozo-muffiGd ladies and 
 Peruvian gentlemen who failed to show tickets 
 and who had been picnicking in the seats burst 
 into one final explosion of embracings and good- 
 byes before descending to the tracks where they 
 took up a position alongside the car windows. 
 The second-class were not admitted to their hard 
 benches except on proof of actually possessing 
 a ticket, but the stubby trainmen had their hands 
 full in keeping the car door clear for they were 
 continually choked with Cholo or Indian groups 
 committing last messages to memory. Their 
 
THE CITY OF CHURCHES 87 
 
 windows were jammed with heads and clawing 
 arms exchanging or accepting dripping foods 
 wrapped in platano leaves, bottles of checha, or 
 earthen pots containing Heaven knows what. 
 
 At last the whistle screamed from the engine, 
 a bell tinkled, and the train moved out in state to 
 the demonstrations of the populace. The car 
 was but moderately filled; a couple of padres 
 from Ecuador — one a political refugee — a ton- 
 sured monk, a couple of black-robed nuns, and 
 three engineers, together with an assortment of 
 Peruvians — the women in the shrouding, tightly 
 drawn rebozo of funeral black against which the 
 heavy face-powdering showed in ghastly con- 
 trast — and a couple of small children who turned 
 up at intervals from under the seats, grimed with 
 train cinders and ecstatically sticky with chan- 
 caca, a raw sugar sort of candy. And in every 
 vacant seat was baggage, native, hairy rawhide 
 boxes shapeless from the many pack-mule lash- 
 ings, paper bags, and pasteboard hat boxes and 
 bandanna bundles and somewhere in the collec- 
 tion each Peruvian seemed to be able to draw 
 on an inexhaustible supply of the Arequipa 
 brewed, bilious, green beer. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 THROUGH THE INCA COUNTRY 
 
 SLOWLY at first we rose, skirting the great 
 foothills or gently ascending valleys and al- 
 ways crossing some dismantled relic of the 
 dead Inca empire. Then we plunged boldly 
 into the mountain chain teetering over spidery 
 bridges across gorges whose bottom was a ribbon 
 of foam or where the rails followed a winding 
 shelf cut in the face of the mountain, where an 
 empty beer bottle flung from the car window 
 broke on the tracks below over which the train 
 had been crawling a quarter of an hour before. 
 With the increasing altitude — the summit of the 
 pass was still ahead and something over fifteen 
 thousand feet above sea level — the soroche, 
 mountain sickness, began to be manifest in the 
 car in deathly, nauseating dizziness until it 
 closely resembled the woebegone cabin of a sight- 
 seeing steamer at a yacht race. 
 
 88 
 
THROUGH THE INC A COUNTRY 89 
 
 The enginers had been discussing the traces 
 of the old Inca works with special reference to 
 their irrigation systems, of which there was gen- 
 erally a ruin visible out of one window or the 
 other. Special emphasis had been laid on the 
 total lack of survival of any instruments or 
 methods by which this hydraulic engineering 
 had been calculated or performed. There is a 
 trace of one irrigation ditch something like one 
 hundred and twenty-five miles in length — a set of 
 levels for such a project even to-day would be a 
 matter for nice calculation. The Incas simply 
 went ahead and did it, some way. Their en- 
 gineering had been turned over and over and 
 compared with the great engineering works of 
 antiquity. 
 
 " Cut and try," said one engineer in conclu- 
 sion; " that was the way these old Inca people 
 made their irrigation systems. Put a gang of 
 Indians to digging a ditch from where the water 
 supply was to come ; then let in the water as they 
 dug — in a little ditch — and dig deeper or dike 
 it up to the water level as it showed in the trench. 
 When they had that little ditch finished there 
 was their level ; all they had to do was to dig it as 
 big and deep and wide as they wanted." 
 
90 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 It looked reasonable; there was no dissent. 
 We swung around a curve and a vista opened out 
 of a ragged valley, broken by gorges and canons 
 with sheer walls of soft rock. 
 
 One of the other engineers chuckled. " Look 
 at that!" He pointed up the valley and his 
 finger followed one of the canons. " How did 
 they cut and try on that proposition? " 
 
 There, for as far as the eye could follow the 
 turnings of the canon way was the line of a ditch, 
 an aqueduct, that hung some twenty to fifty feet 
 below the edge of the cliff. It had been cut into 
 the wall of rock, leaving a lip along the outer 
 edge to hold in the current Here and there, 
 where the ragged trace of the canon made pro- 
 jecting, buttressing angles, the aqueduct had been 
 driven as a short-cut tunnel straight through. 
 Here and there great sections of the canon walls 
 had fallen, while occasionally it appeared as 
 though the outer lip had been destroyed by man- 
 made efforts — one of the old Spanish methods of 
 hurrying up a little ready tribute — but never had 
 there been a possibility of using any " cut and 
 try " method of its construction. 
 
 " Well," remarked the first, " there goes that 
 theory — and it isn't original with me either^ — fon 
 
THROUGH THE INC A COUNTRY 91 
 
 I reckon they had to run that level first and chalk 
 it up on the rock to cut by in some kind of a 
 way.'* 
 
 It is a trifle staggering, when you think of it, 
 that a nation that was able to solve engineering 
 difficulties like these, to turn an arid desert into 
 a teeming farm and to organize and administer 
 a vast empire, should have been wantonly de- 
 stroyed all for the lack of a little knowledge of 
 the combination of saltpetre, sulphur, and char- 
 coal. And the wretched waste! Think of that 
 church-benisoned riffraff of the medieval 
 slums, recognizing only the greed for raw gold, 
 wasting a whole people in torture to satisfy the 
 rapacious gluttony of a Spanish court. 
 
 Sometimes the train crawled along no faster 
 than a bare walk, so steep were the grades and 
 sharp the turns. There was nothing of the scenic 
 splendor such as one may get in the railroads 
 among the Alps of Switzerland and where, as 
 one climbs, one may look down and back into the 
 green landscape of a panorama. The scale was 
 too great, the sense of proportion and distance 
 was subdued; a stretch great enough for a Swiss 
 panorama was one vast gorge twisting its way 
 among the vaster masses of the Andes. The 
 
92 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 crest of the pass itself was higher than Mount 
 Rainier. 
 
 Sometimes the train passed over high plateaus 
 where occasionally in the distance could be seen 
 the low house of some hacienda or the grouped 
 huts of Indians while beyond in the great dis- 
 tance the plain was rimmed with a jagged line 
 of snow-capped peaks. The winds swept across 
 the level stretches, raising an assortment of sand- 
 spouts and dusty cyclones. They were of all 
 sizes, from tiny remolinos that died in a few 
 puffs to towering whirlwinds that spiraled fif- 
 teen hundred feet in the air with a base of fifty 
 feet that juggled boulders in its vortex like so 
 many cork chips. They would move leisurely 
 for a short space and then dart like a flash in an 
 erratic path. Sometimes fifteen or twenty of 
 these would be in sight at the same time. Herds 
 of llamas grazed over the plain, sometimes a 
 flock of sheep or an occasional horse, each with 
 a wary eye on the whirlwinds ; if one approached 
 too near they galloped oflF. Not infrequently a 
 herd of guanacos would gallop off at the ap- 
 proach of the train or could be seen grazing in 
 the distance. 
 
 From beyond the high plain the grades les- 
 
THROUGH THE INC A COUNTRY 93 
 
 sened and the train rolled along at a fine speed — 
 for South America. At rare intervals there was 
 a station and a short stop, usually the lonely out- 
 post of some mining company. Then the grades 
 began to slope our way and in place of the dry 
 bunch grass there were rolling hills and gentle 
 valleys of soft green grass. Little lakes nestled 
 in the hills, their cold waters black with wild- 
 fowl that scarcely fluttered up as the train shot 
 by. We were making the slight drop down to 
 that vast inter-Andean plateau that stretches 
 from Bolivia on up into Ecuador. 
 
 A cold winter sunset sank beyond the cold 
 purple of the western peaks ; a couple of feeble, 
 smoking and smelling oil lamps irritated the 
 darkness and added their fragrance to the close 
 atmosphere — for in the bitter winds and biting 
 cold of the high altitude the windows had long 
 since been closed. 
 
 Juliaca was reached, a junction by which one 
 may connect for Cuzco, the old Inca capital. It 
 showed in the blackness as a few dingy lights. 
 Here the car emptied itself of all but half a 
 dozen bound for Bolivia across the lake. Once 
 again we wheezed under way and presently with 
 a grand celebration from the engine's whistle 
 
94 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 the train pulled slowly into the train yards of 
 the terminal at Puno and as we climbed out 
 there came the light, musical splash of fresh- 
 water surf and the unmistakable smell of water. 
 Dimly under the starlight there loomed the form 
 of a boat and the dim reflecting surface of the 
 water was picked out by the dark patches of the 
 native Indian craft. It was the great Lake Titi- 
 caca. 
 
 Down at the end of the stone dock lay the 
 Yavari a slim, patched boat, twice lengthened, 
 whose hull and engines had been packed piece- 
 meal on the backs of burros, llamas, and mules 
 over the Andes to the Titicaca shores over fifty 
 years ago. It had taken a year to do it. It was 
 the first steamer on the lake and wonderful was 
 the amazement of the native population as they 
 beheld this veritable monster of the seas — some 
 sixty feet in length — shoot mysteriously through 
 the water at the prodigious speed of some seven 
 miles an hour. 
 
 Forward, on either side, was an array of tiny 
 staterooms, each about the size of a wardrobe 
 into which penetrated a most grateful warmth 
 from the boilers. A scrap of tallow candle 
 threw the suspicious looking bunks into shadow 
 
THROUGH THE INC A COUNTRY 95 
 
 and it was not long before I was in one under 
 my own blankets. From the little cabin aft 
 came the clatter of the native travelers over a 
 late lunch served by a bare-legged Quechua 
 sailor; it was in the main some kind of a hash 
 preparation loaded with aji, a venomous pepper 
 that will penetrate the stoutest stomach. I had 
 tried it and having been both warned and pun- 
 ished in the same mouthful, I was glad to seek 
 the wardrobe bunk to weep it out of my system 
 in cramped solitude. 
 
 In the first streaks of dawn the Yavari backed 
 out from the long dock and swung out upon the 
 crystal-clear, blue waters of Lake Titicaca. On 
 the other side of the dock at a disabled angle 
 and under repairs lay the more pretentious 
 steamer Coya — literally the Inca Queen — with 
 diminutive bridge and chart-house and all the 
 trappings of a deep sea liner shrunk and crowded 
 into small compass. Varieties of water fowl 
 dotted the water's edge in large flocks busily at 
 breakfast and almost indifferent to the occasional 
 straw or rather reed canoe of the Indians. 
 
 All day the Yavari skirted a coast that rolled 
 back in long hills or at times came down to the 
 lake in a steep bluff. Very slowly the lake is re- 
 
96 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 ceding. Old Inca towns once evidently on the 
 shore line are back from the water; since Piz- 
 arro's time the distance is a matter of miles. In 
 the little party on the boat the old tales of the 
 Inca gold and Atahualpa's tribute became natur- 
 ally a leading topic. The country from the 
 highlands of Colombia down to Chile are filled 
 with legends of secreted treasure and lost mines 
 or cacheSjfor Pizarro did not wait for Atahualpa 
 to pay his ransom — he burned him at the stake 
 when he realized that the Inca emperor could ac- 
 tually get together a council chamber packed to 
 the ceiling with raw gold. 
 
 There were scores of llama trains coming 
 down the Andes from the uttermost parts of the 
 empire, a veritable flood of gold was on its way 
 to secure the release of the sacred Inca chief. 
 It never arrived and somewhere up and down 
 some three thousand miles of Andes there are 
 legends galore of Inca tribute treasure concealed 
 by the Indians on the burning of their king. 
 There are legends of monkish parchment maps 
 left by early missionaries that locate rediscover- 
 ies with apparent exactness up to certain points, 
 of mines relocated by accident; in one case, a 
 drunken Scotch donkey-engine driver took up 
 
THROUGH THE INC A COUNTRY 97 
 
 and finally married a wretched Aymara mine- 
 woman, a half-human creature; she finally re- 
 vealed to him the location of one of the old con- 
 cealed mines and the two worked it together. 
 As the story runs, they acquired fabulous wealth, 
 he longed for Scotland and went back taking 
 her with him and importing for her use the 
 chuno and chalona that was her only food. He 
 played fair. Finally he died there and his 
 widow managed to get back to her own moun- 
 tains where she was finally poisoned for her 
 money or her secret. 
 
 Legend also has it that around the city of 
 Cuzco — the seat of the Incas — there was a great 
 golden chain and that this, upon the approach of 
 Pizarro, was dropped into Titicaca. It is al- 
 ways a steamer discussion as to how soon the lake 
 will have receded enough to make its discoverey 
 a matter of possibility. At the possible place 
 where it was dropped in the engineer of the 
 Coya holds that the lake has receded some six 
 miles since the conquest. 
 
 There is also the legend of the immense treas- 
 ure train coming down in sections from what is 
 now Colombia and Ecuador which was on the 
 mountain trails at the time of Atahualpa's death ; 
 
98 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 evidence is said to exist of the despatch of this 
 gold which would have more than completed the 
 ransom. It never arrived, it was never heard of 
 again after the burning at the stake, but it is a 
 common belief to-day that there are many In- 
 dians to whom these matters are tribal secrets. 
 There are common tales of odd Indians, neither 
 Quechua nor Aymara, those being the two great 
 Indian divisions, suddenly appearing from time 
 to time and taking part in some Indian fiesta of 
 peculiar importance, although evidently all the 
 fiestas now have been given an ecclesiastical sig- 
 nificance — and then as completely disappearing. 
 There are rumors of tribes and even cities buried 
 in the eastern slopes of the Andes from which 
 these irregular excursions come. 
 
 Skirting the shore until the late afternoon, the 
 Yavari struck out into the ocean horizon that 
 stretched away in the blue distance, until wc 
 raised the Island of the Sun and the Island of 
 the Moon. The former Is reputed to have been 
 the summer residence of the Incas and there still 
 remain the ruins of palaces together with a great 
 basin or reservoir hewn from the solid rock and 
 traditionally known as the Inca's bath tub. To 
 the other island is ascribed the home of the wives 
 
THROUGH THE INC A COUNTRY 99 
 
 and concubines of the Incas, or perhaps a train- 
 ing school where they were domiciled until, like 
 an army reserve, they were called to the colors. 
 
 From each of them the Yavari took on a little 
 freight, a few sacks of cehada, barley, and chuno, 
 the little, dried up, original, native American 
 potato, not much larger than a nutmeg. The 
 cargo was on board a heavy, sluggish reed boat, 
 a big affair in which burros and even bullocks 
 are carried to or from these lake islands — of 
 which there are many scattered here and there 
 — and the mainland. 
 
 All the western slopes of the Andes are tree- 
 less, the high plains are treeless, and the few 
 poles that are used in the thatched roofs of the 
 Indian huts are dragged out from the montana, 
 as the interior over the final Andean passes is 
 called. These skinny little poles are regular 
 articles of trade. Therefore, the Lake Titicaca 
 Indian has evolved his reed canoe and boat. 
 
 The reed, which grows along the shores of 
 the lake, is bound in round bundles tapering at 
 both ends; these bundles in turn are lashed 
 together to form the canoes, from the little 
 bundles to the larger boats that can carry 
 freight. Sometimes a mat sail, also from these 
 
100 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 same reeds, is hoisted on a couple of poles lashed 
 together at the apex and at the base braced 
 against the inside of the clumsy craft. The 
 steering is done with an oar made from a pole 
 and a board, while similar oars are used by the 
 crew who drive a wooden pin for an oarlock at 
 any convenient spot along the reed-bundle 
 gunwale. In this kind of an outfit they put out 
 on the lake fishing for the little fish that alone 
 seem to have survived in the cold waters, or 
 shuffling across the waves from the coast to one 
 little sugar-loaf island after another in their 
 native trade. In Pizarro's day it was probably 
 the same — costume, craft, and barter. 
 
 One more night in the cramped wardrobe of 
 the Yavari — during which my solution of al- 
 cohol and salicylic acid procured in flea-bitten 
 Lima — against other similar emergencies — did 
 valiant service, and in the morning we awoke to 
 the clatter of the Indian mate and his Quechua 
 crew as they made the little steamer fast to the 
 dock at Guaqui. From here a railroad runs 
 over a continuation of the level high plain and 
 past the ruins of Tiajuanaca to the edge of the 
 plateau above La Paz. The valley of La Paz 
 is a vast crack torn in the level plain as by some 
 
In Pizarro's Day It Was Probably the Same— Costume, Crafty 
 
 and Barter 
 
TJHROUGH THE INCA COUNTRY Vol 
 
 primeval cataclysmic blast; on the farther side 
 there is the tremendous peak of Illomani with a 
 cape of perpetual snow far down its grim 
 flanks; far off in the ragged valley and some 
 two thousand feet below the railroad terminal is 
 the capital of Bolivia, La Paz. Once no trolley 
 wound its way down the steep sides, and in those 
 days there still gathered at the station every 
 Deadwood and express coach that had ever 
 existed at the north. A crew of runners would 
 meet the train, pile all the freight and pas- 
 sengers that were possible inside, lash the rest 
 on the roof, and then with their four or six 
 horse teams — never an animal free from a col- 
 lar gall — on a dead run race for a place at the 
 edge of the mesa in order to be the first on the 
 winding trail that led downward to the city. 
 Whips cracking, horses on the jump, coaches 
 swinging and banging, here a hairy rawhide 
 trunk goes off, and there an Indian hotel mozo 
 is snapped straight out in the rush as he tries to 
 crawl up on the baggage rack behind ; and then 
 the dropping trail in a whirl of dust over a road 
 scarcely better than a dry creek bottom until, at 
 last, over the rough cobbles of La Paz itself, to 
 pull up at the door of the hotel with the rough 
 
'^'^'^iok'^^^M ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 horses in a lather and with white eyes and heav- 
 ing sides. That was the way it was once. Now 
 it is different; you can ride down sedately in a 
 trolley car and walk into the hotel with never a 
 hair turned. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 OUT OF LA PAZ BY PACK TRAIN 
 
 HERE in La Paz were completed the final 
 arrangements for reaching the interior; 
 this was the last of the easy traveling, 
 from now on it would be by pack train and 
 saddle, raft and canoe, and to gather them we 
 advanced from one interior town to another as 
 best we might. It was the third and last of the 
 Andean series that was to be crossed, and it was 
 also the highest and hardest. Daily we haggled 
 with arrieros over pack mules or rode to their 
 corrals in the precipitous suburbs of the city and 
 between times there were the odds and ends of 
 a big outfit to be filled in and the commissary to 
 be stocked. It was the last place where the little 
 things of civilization could be procured, for 
 there was but one more real settlement, Sorata 
 over the first pass, that could be counted upon 
 for anything that had been overlooked. And 
 then one day it appeared as though we were 
 
 complete. 
 
 103 
 
I04 JCROSS THE ANDES 
 
 HAGGI^KD WITH ARRIEROS OV^R PACK MULKS. 
 
 The arriero came around and weighed the 
 cargo and divided it in rawhide nets, equally 
 balanced, according to each individual mule's 
 capacity and then even before daybreak on the 
 following morning we were off. 
 
 It seemed like midnight. The dead, still 
 blackness of the night, with the lighter crevice 
 of gloom that marked the dividing-line between 
 the curtains at the window gave no indication 
 of dawn, and only the echo of the little tin 
 alarm-clock, with its hands irritatingly point- 
 ing to the hour of necessity, indicated that at 
 
OUT OF LA PAZ BY PACK TRAIN 105 
 
 last the time was at hand for the actual entry 
 into the vague interior of South America. A 
 thin tallow candle glimmered in the high-ceil- 
 inged room and illumed flickering patches be- 
 tween the areas of cold, uncertain darkness, and 
 by its light I scrambled into breeches, puttees, 
 and spurs, and buckled my gun under my heavy, 
 wool-lined jacket. Down in the patio I could 
 hear an Aymara scuffling about in his rawhide 
 sandals, and as I stepped out on the balcony 
 above the patio, a thin drift of acrid smoke 
 floated up from where he was cooking our tin 
 of coffee over a clay fire-pot with llama dung 
 for fuel. 
 
 Below my window, up from the narrow 
 street there came the shuffling noises of the pack- 
 train — the creak of rawhide cinches, the thud 
 and strain of the packs as they came in restless 
 collision and now and again the " Hola! hola! " 
 or "Huish!" of an arriero or more often the 
 -long-drawn hiss of a rawhide thong. Then the 
 pack-train lengthened in file, and the noise 
 died away up the crooked, narrow street. The 
 few final necessities of the trail I jammed in my 
 saddle-bag as the last mule was packed; then 
 had a cup of coffee, steaming hot, although only 
 
io6 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 comfortably warm to the taste from the low- 
 boiling point of the high altitude, and we 
 climbed into the saddle and were off. 
 
 The city of La Paz was still in darkness, but 
 above the rim of the great crack in the depths 
 of which it rests there was a suggestion of a 
 silver haze that dimmed the stars. The 
 streets were deserted except for an occasional 
 scavenger pig grunting restlessly on its way. 
 Sometimes a little Bolivian policeman, in heavy 
 coat and cape, and muffled to the eyes in a 
 woolen tippet, would peer sleepily from the 
 shelter of a great Spanish doorway, and then, 
 observing our solemn respectability, sink back 
 into the comfortable shadow. By the time we 
 had rejoined the main body of the pack-train 
 we were in the shabbier outskirts of La Paz, 
 where the Aymaras and the Cholos — the latter 
 the half-breed relatives of the former — live in 
 their squalid mud-brick hovels. 
 
 The streets were wider now, in fact they were 
 nothing but a series of ragged gullies, along 
 whose dry banks straggled the grimy dwellings. 
 Always, in some of them, there is a fiesta of some 
 kind, a birth, a wedding, a death, a special 
 church celebration, or perhaps some pantheistic 
 
iiiil^ ^HE^w '^ ^ 
 
 
 ■l 
 
 
 
 H^M 
 
 
 % 
 
 ^^K^^ 
 
 
 ^^H|K-' ^^s hTT<jIHH^ 
 
 
 \Ai 
 
 ""^*.^\y 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 JirTfc » aHl^ 
 
 Prisoners Along the Trail up from La Paz 
 
OUT OF LA PAZ BY PACK TRAIN 107 
 
 festival that still lingers in their dulled history 
 and has prudently merged itself with the 
 piously ordained occasions. The orgy of the 
 night is past, yet from here and there come the 
 feeble tootings of a drunken flute, an instrument 
 that every Aymara seems to be able to play as a 
 birthright, whose mournful and monotonous 
 strains drift through the thin air from some less 
 stupefied celebrant. 
 
 The Aymara love of their primitive music is 
 very strong; it is universal among them and, 
 while their primitive flute, pandean pipe and 
 crude drum interpret the joy ordinarily, yet 
 they take cheerfully to any new form of musical 
 instrument, and in some miraculous way learn, 
 in time, to produce the same series of ragged, 
 droning sounds. The accordion, concertina and 
 mouth organ are much beloved and once I even 
 heard a self-taught Aymara band of brass horns, 
 cornet, tenor horn, bass, and a slide and key 
 trombone, playing the Aymara airs with their 
 own home-made orchestration. The govern- 
 ment bandmaster had drilled a large military 
 band that used to give concerts twice a week in 
 the plaza and there was not an approach to a 
 white man in the outfit, it was composed wholly 
 
io8 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 of Cholos and Aymaras from the little boy 
 drummers to the great horns that curled like a 
 blanket-roll over the shoulder. 
 
 Rapidly the first silver of the morning deep- 
 ened to richer tints and glowed above the pur- 
 ple silhouette of the rim of the great gorge, 
 while Illimani, the perpetually snow-capped 
 mountain that overshadowed La Paz, burst into 
 splendid prismatic bloom as the first direct rays 
 of the sun shimmered over its slopes and ice 
 peaks; below, the gorge and the city slowly 
 lightened and glimmered in detail through the 
 frosty, early morning mists. The thin bitter air 
 of the night was gone; it was cold still, but the 
 thin high air held in some indefinable way the 
 promise of a seductive warmth. 
 
 The long line of pack mules climbed steadily 
 upward; the rambling, hovel-lined streets were 
 gone and only now and then we passed a little 
 mud hut with its one door as the sole aperture, 
 the headquarters of the tiny Aymara truck 
 farm. The acrid smoke from their cooking- 
 fire leaked through the blackened roof and rose 
 in little spirals straight up through the still air, 
 while the members of the household squatted in 
 the chill sun, muffled to the eyes in ponchos and 
 
OUT OF LA PAZ BY PACK TRAIN 109 
 
 with woolen cap and superimposed hat drawn 
 down to meet the mufflings, squatted in the 
 chilly sunlight. They muffle themselves in this 
 way at the slightest suggestion of chill in the 
 air; but from the thighs down they are indiffer- 
 ent to cold or storm. It makes no difference if 
 they are in a blizzard blowing over one of the 
 high Andean passes, they will trudge along with 
 legs bare to above the knees, but with heads and 
 throats muffled deep in woolens. I have seen 
 them make a camp in a driving snow-storm and 
 go peacefully to sleep with their heads carefully 
 enshrouded, and awake at daybreak none the 
 worse for the experience, though their bare legs 
 were drifted over with sno^ and their sandals 
 stiffened with ice. 
 
 Along the road that climbed up the side of 
 the great crack in the high plateau that formed 
 the valley of La Paz, little groups of Aymaras 
 who had camped there during the night were 
 packing their trains of llamas and burros for 
 the last short distance in to the La Paz markets. 
 Often, without taking the trouble to cook, they 
 would gnaw on a piece of raw chalona — the 
 split carcass of a sheep dried in the sun and cold 
 of the high plateaus — which has about as much 
 
no ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 flavor as an old buggy whip. Sometimes they 
 ate parched corn or chuno — the latter the 
 native potato, shrunken and small after the dry- 
 ing in the high air in the same treatment as the 
 chalona receives — and tasting very much like a 
 cork bottle stopper. But always they chewed 
 coca, the leaf that furnishes cocaine. Leaf by 
 leaf they would stow it away, and add a little 
 ashes and oil scraped out of a pouch with a 
 needle of bone. Among the older Aymaras, 
 the cheek frequently has developed a sagging 
 pouch from the years of distention with coca. 
 Aside from that, it seems to have no effect upon 
 them. 
 
 The Aymara pack-trains of burros would pass 
 us with indifference, half hidden in great 
 sheaves of cehada — barley — or with chickens 
 slung in ponchos on either side and with only 
 their heads visible and swaying in time to the 
 gait of the burro. But the llamas would go 
 mincing past, crowding as far as possible against 
 the other side of the road with an obvious as- 
 sumption of fright. Their slitted nostrils 
 would twitch and their slender ears wiggle in an 
 agony of nervousness, while their eyes, the most 
 beautiful, pleading, liquid eyes in the animal 
 
UT OF LA PAZ BY PACK TRAIN 1 1 1 
 
 world would be 
 humid with hysteri- 
 cal fear. Yet from 
 their infancy they 
 have seen men and 
 horses, pack-trains, 
 and all the travel 
 of the mountains 
 and plateaus. But 
 the apparent gen- 
 tleness of the llama 
 is purely superfic- 
 ial; for it can spit 
 with unpleasant ac- aymara driver of pack llamas. 
 curacy to repel a frontal approach, while its rear 
 and flanks are guarded by padded feet that are 
 vicious in their power and uncertainty. To the 
 Aymara the llama is transportation, food, wool, 
 and fuel. An Aymara child can do anything 
 with a llama, and with nothing more than her 
 shrill little voice; but in the presence of a white 
 man it is a creature of hysterical and timid 
 peevishness. 
 
 As we filed by these pack-trains, the Aymara 
 driver would remove his native hat of coarse 
 felt, leaving the head still covered by his gay, 
 
112 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 >i^«^. ^ 
 
 woolen nightcap 
 with its flapping 
 ear-tabs, and mur- 
 mur a respectful 
 '' Tata! '' to which 
 we would politely 
 return a *' Buenos 
 d'las, tata'^ unless 
 the driver hap- 
 pened to be a 
 woman, in which 
 case we would sub- 
 stitute the corres- 
 ponding '' Mama^' 
 for the '' Tatar 
 The women would 
 plod along barefooted while they spun yarn 
 from a bundle of dirty, raw wool held un- 
 der one arm. As the yarn was spun, it was 
 gathered on a top-like distaff dangling at the end 
 of the woolen thread. In some miraculous way 
 it was never permitted to lose its spinning twirl, 
 and at the right moment always absorbed the 
 additional thread, so that it never was permitted 
 to drag along the trail. At her little home 
 somewhere on the inter- Andean plateau, she will 
 
 MEMBERS OF A GANG OP PRISONERS. 
 
 I 
 
UT OF LA PAZ BY PACK TRAIN 113 
 
 afterwards dye the wool and knit one of those 
 night-caps or weave a poncho, according to some 
 rough tribal pattern, so tight that it will shed 
 water as well as a London raincoat. Her loom 
 will be two logs laid on the ground, on which 
 the warp is stretched ; the shuttle will be carved 
 from the bone of a sheep, and the threads will 
 be beaten into place with the sharpened shin- 
 bone of a sheep. Weeks may be spent in the 
 patient weaving. Whether she is on the trail 
 or is weaving, she has usually a pudgy, expres- 
 sionless baby of a tarnished copper color held in 
 the fold of the poncho that is knotted across her 
 shoulders. Sometimes a prosperous Aymara 
 gentleman, with his pack animals, passed us 
 and then he was apt to be accompanied by sev- 
 eral Aymara women and their assortment of tar- 
 nished copper babies, the women being his 
 wives, who assist in the heavier work of driving 
 and packing with complaisant domestic affec- 
 tion. 
 
 This road up from the great, raw gulch of La 
 Paz was full of life; pack-train after pack-train 
 passed, loaded with the daily supplies for that 
 city. All of the trails of the high plateau above 
 converge to feed it and it broadens out into a 
 
114 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 thh: guard for the: road menders. 
 
 real road, no longer a trail, under the needs of 
 the heavier traffic. A group of sandaled 
 soldiers was apparently detailed to act as road- 
 masters ; and they would stop the Aymaras and 
 enforce a bit of labor in aid of the gang of 
 prisoners under their guard. The instant dull 
 and sullen submission of the Indians at once in- 
 dicated their position in the Bolivian scale. 
 
 Steadily during the early morning hours we 
 climbed, until the rim of the high plateau itself 
 was only a short distance ahead. Worn 
 through the rim by generations of plodding 
 
OUT OF LA PAZ BY PACK TRAIN 115 
 
 hoofs was a crooked trail, so narrow that the 
 mules bumped and scrabbled along, and we 
 emerged, as through a trap-door, out on the end- 
 less distances of the vast inter-Andean plateau. 
 Below, losing itself in the distant haze, stretched 
 the ragged crack that made the valley of La Paz 
 and miles away, quivering in the slowly warm- 
 ing air, was the city itself, a tiny clutter of gaudy 
 houses and red-tiled roofs, with the brilliant 
 green of the little park making a sharp contrast 
 in color. Elsewhere the slopes of the valley 
 were as destitute of verdure as when they were 
 blown into existence by the terrific forces of 
 primeval nature. Yet in this desert barrenness 
 there was no lack of color; in the cool of the 
 morning the shadows were soft in every delicate 
 variation of purple and amethyst; the bare soil 
 and the jagged slopes blended and shifted in 
 ochers and vermilions, in golden tints and cop- 
 per hues and, scattered here and there, were 
 little patches of greens where some little, irri- 
 gated Aymara truck-farm was breaking into the 
 world against the moist chocolate-colored soil. 
 Beyond— and in their immensity there was no 
 suggestion of their great distance — rose the 
 jagged fangs of the last and most interior range 
 
ii6 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 V- t - -^ 
 
 WHILE RODRIGUEZ AND HIS CHOLO HELPERS TIGHTENED THE RAW- 
 HIDE CINCHES AND REPLACED THE PACKS. 
 
 of the Andes, with their black cliffs and scarred 
 flanks disappearing under the everlasting 
 
OUT OF LA PAZ BY PACK TRAIN 1 17 
 
 mantles of snow; over all, was the clear, shim- 
 mering turquoise heaven of the high altitudes. 
 
 Down in that valley were the little cafes, the 
 little shops with imported trinkets, the plaza 
 Sunday afternoons with the band and the parad- 
 ing elite and all the little functions of civiliza- 
 tion, yet this city is fairly balanced on the edge 
 of the frontier, while beyond were the high 
 passes and the vague interior of South America, 
 the last of the great primitive domains, where 
 men still exist by means of bow and arrow or 
 stone club, and where the ethical right and the 
 physical ability to survive are yet indistinguish- 
 able. 
 
 From this edge of the plateau the narrow 
 trails run in all directions like the sticks of a fan. 
 Trained from many previous trips, the pack- 
 animals halted or wandered aside, nibbling at 
 the tufts of dry bunch-grass, while Rodriguez 
 and his two Cholo helpers tightened the raw- 
 hide cinches and replaced the packs that had 
 shifted in the long climb and scramble through 
 the narrow gully. Then, with the bell on the 
 leading pack-animal tinkling monotonously, be- 
 gan the steady plodding in single file along one 
 of the furrowed trails. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 THE BACK TRAIL AMONG THE AYMARAS 
 
 AT first the plateau was dotted with the 
 lines of converging burro- and llama- 
 trains, but, as the morning passed, there 
 was nothing but the lonely distance of the 
 plateau, with here and there a tiny speck of a 
 solitary pack-train. The air had warmed 
 rapidly under the sun; the light breeze had the 
 touch of a northern spring, and I yielded to the 
 seductive suggestion and strapped my heavy 
 woolen coat to the saddle. Five minutes later I 
 halted and gladly put it on once more, for the 
 thin air was treacherous in its allurements. 
 
 Somewhere about the middle of the day we 
 halted for breakfast at Cocuta, a native tambo 
 or wayside inn, though the pack-train pushed on 
 slowly, nibbling the bunch-grass as it went. 
 The tambo was surrounded by a high, thick 
 mud-brick wall that inclosed something over an 
 acre of ground, and inside this fortress were the 
 
 Ii8 
 
AMONG THE AYMARAS 119 
 
 little mud buildings, granaries, and corrals. An 
 old Aymara woman cooked our breakfast over a 
 llama-dung fire in one corner of the room, and 
 it was served on a rough table over by a dried 
 mud bench that was built against two of the 
 walls. The filthy room was lighted only by the 
 small, low doors, the high, mud sills of which 
 still further shut out light and ventilation, and 
 the fetid atmosphere was rich in its ethnological 
 and entomological suggestion. A chicken soup, 
 reeking with the mutton tallow of chalona and 
 with the head and feet of the fowl floating in 
 the grease, made the first course; then came 
 lomita (the tenderloin of a steak), and eggs 
 fried in mutton tallow. We produced some 
 coffee from the saddle-bags and the old woman 
 fluttered about and brewed a pretty fair article. 
 It was at this same Cocuta, on another occa- 
 sion, that, in riding to La Paz, I ran into a 
 band of drunken ladrones and, as some ol the 
 band took the trail after me, it gave a most un- 
 welcome and interesting zest to the rest of that 
 night ride. 
 
 That night we slept in a second tambo, 
 smaller, but also with a thick mud wall inclos- 
 ing the collection of mud huts. The mules 
 
I20 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 were turned loose on the plateau to graze till 
 morning, their hobbled feet a guarantee of their 
 not straying. At sunset came the piercing cold, 
 when even the barricaded door of the mud room 
 and the steaming human warmth inside proved 
 grateful. A wide platform of mud-bricks was 
 the bed — it was the sole furniture — and on it 
 we piled the sheepskins from the pack-saddles, 
 and over an alcohol lamp we made a thin tea and 
 warmed up some tinned things. An old 
 Aymara woman was apparently the sole care- 
 taker of this tambo, but she viewed us with un- 
 lovely eyes and would furnish nothing. Sullen 
 and surly that night, she was all ingratiating 
 smiles the next morning when she saw my 
 camera. She scuttled inside her hut and then 
 reappeared in some hasty finery, in which she 
 trotted anxiously about with conciliatory grim- 
 aces and pleadings in guttural Aymara that her 
 picture be taken. How she knew what a 
 camera was for and, further, why she was not 
 afraid of it were mysteries, for invariably I 
 found all other Aymaras hostile against the 
 evil witchcraft of the little black box. As it 
 was yet only early dawn, there was not sufficient 
 light, but I satisfied her by clicking the shutter. 
 
AMONG THE AY MAR AS 121 
 
 After the heated air in the dark hut, the first 
 moment outside in the pure, still cold was like 
 breathing needles; the long stretch of plateau 
 was soft with white frost, every grimy straw in 
 the thatched roofs glistened like silver with its 
 coating of ice, and the morning ablutions were 
 performed through a hole broken in the crust of 
 ice in a near-by brook. A cup of tea boiled over 
 the alcohol lamp was the only breakfast, and 
 then we started. As we climbed into the 
 saddles the old Aymara woman hovered in the 
 gateway clucking pleased Aymara benedictions 
 for her photograph. 
 
 For some reason of his own Rodriguez elected 
 to leave the main trail beyond this tambo and 
 take one of the little-used back trails to Sorata. 
 It was very much shorter but, as we afterward 
 learned, is little used on account of the surly, 
 hostile attitude of the Aymaras of that district 
 and, except for a large outfit, is not considered 
 safe. Here the Aymaras are more secluded and 
 view intrusion with aggressive suspicion; three 
 months before they had attacked an outfit and 
 killed the trader. Those who passed no longer 
 greeted us with the "Tata!" Instead, they 
 would turn sullenly out of the trail to avoid us 
 
122 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 as we passed, or stop and view us with unmistak- 
 able hostility. When we halted for a hasty bite 
 by the side of a cold brook, Rodriguez held the 
 whole pack-train and the arrieros close by, and 
 did not allow them to go ahead, as on the day 
 before. 
 
 Just before branching off into this unused 
 trail we came upon a large party of Aymaras 
 carrying, in relays, a stretcher on their shoulders 
 that was inclosed with cloth, so that it resembled 
 a sort of palanquin ; six of them were carrying it 
 at a time in a ground-eating dog-trot and about 
 each half-mile they would be relieved by six 
 others, the transfer of the stretcher being 
 effected without jolt or jar. It proved to be a 
 wealthy Bolivian haciendado who was ill, and 
 was being carried in this simple ambulance to 
 the doctors in La Paz by his own Indians. The 
 trot and the burden were nothing to them; I 
 have seen an Aymara boy carry forty pounds on 
 his back and trot hour after hour without appar- 
 ent difficulty and come into camp at night but 
 little behind the mounted man he was accom- 
 panying. Yet at this altitude, unless one has 
 become gradually accustomed, even walking is a 
 heavy effort. 
 
AMONG THE AYMARAS 123 
 
 AYMARA HERDERS PLAYED THEIR WEIRD ELUTES. 
 
 On the new trail the dead level of the plateau 
 gave way to more rolling country, the ragged, 
 snow-capped line of mountains at the horizon 
 came closer; Huayna-Potosi loomed on our 
 right, and, growing more impressive every hour, 
 was the great, white mass of Mount Sorata, dead 
 ahead. Then the rolling country closed in, and 
 narrower valleys succeeded, with the rugged 
 foot-hills on each side. In this part was an 
 enormous breeding-ground for llamas ; for miles 
 the hills were dotted with them. Baby llamas, 
 very new, and still blinking at the strange world, 
 huddled timidly in behind a tuft of bunch-grass 
 or behind some small boulder, while the queer, 
 goose-necked mother stood near with apparent 
 indifference; little llamas in all stages of adole- 
 scence and awkwardness gamboled on the hill- 
 
124 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 sides, and herds dotting the slopes looked for all 
 the world like big, stiff-necked, grotesque sheep. 
 Among them were the Aymara herders who, 
 like traditional shepherds, played their weird 
 and mournful flutes or pipes. Over and over 
 again came the same strain, which carried for 
 miles in the thin, still air. 
 
 One of its little phrases curiously reminded 
 me of that chanted taunt of my boyhood, " Over 
 the fence is ou-oot! " 
 
 Rarely does the Aymara make his own flute or 
 pipe, simple though it is; their manufacture is a 
 native industry by itself. Like a true musician, 
 the Aymara must have his instrument just so, 
 and up in the higher altitudes the flutes are made 
 and brought down to be sold in the market on 
 the days of fiesta. His single weapon, a sling of 
 the pattern made famous by David and Goliath, 
 is of twisted llama-wool, and will throw a stone 
 the size of a lemon. They develop a wonderful 
 skill in its use. 
 
 On this lonely trail we came upon a castle, a 
 veritable castle of the story books ! Alone, grim 
 and battlemented, it stood boldly outlined 
 against the landscape. It was not large, but it 
 was, or had been, perfect in every medieval de- 
 
AMONG THE AYMARAS 125 
 
 tail, and was constructed of mud bricks from 
 outer walls to keep. There was a moat, dry and 
 unkept and now fallen upon evil days ; the high 
 surrounding wall was loopholed, and the fringe 
 of battlements had been eaten away in places by 
 the driving storms. The keep was visible rising 
 above the wall, while galleries and overhanging 
 balconies showed the purposes and possibilities 
 of protection, even should the outer wall be suc- 
 cessfully stormed by some ancient foe; the 
 single, heavy outer gate in the wall was barred, 
 and not a sign of life or of a retainer was to be 
 seen. For miles around the country was de- 
 serted and bare, and in the desolate mountains 
 remained this substance of the past like a grim, 
 dramatic ghost of ancient days. Back on this 
 unused trail it is but little known; Rodriguez 
 knew of it, but that was all, except that he had 
 a very positive idea that its owner or occupant 
 did not care for visitors — but it was occupied. 
 
 Monotonously through the afternoon the 
 pack-train wound through the narrow valleys, 
 and closer came the mountains and more chill 
 the air sweeping downward from their fields of 
 snow. The melting snows flooded the slopes 
 and valleys in innumerable brooks; often the 
 
126 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 trail Itself was lost in wide expanses of icy water. 
 The sun set, and with growing darkness came 
 the increased bitterness of the piercing cold. 
 Along this trail there was no shelter except here 
 and there the little mud huts of the Aymara. 
 
 The clouds rolling low overhead left the 
 night pitch-black; a gale of wind sprang up and 
 hurled itself in our teeth, varying its monotony 
 now and again with a squall of snow that stung 
 like a blizzard. Without a stumble the sure- 
 footed mules kept the trail in the darkness up 
 and down through abrupt gullies or fording 
 some icy stream that left their bellies a fringe of 
 icicles, while, during some lull in the blast, the 
 tinkle of the bell on the leading pack-animal 
 would drift back to us. 
 
 At last the old, deserted tambo for which we 
 had been aiming was reached. By the aid of a 
 few matches — for the lantern was carefully 
 packed on some mule indistinguishable in the 
 blackness — half a dozen Aymaras were found 
 sleeping in the litter on the floor of the mud 
 room, for here there was not even a mud bench. 
 There was no barricade to close the door, and a 
 score of eddies whirled in from the broken 
 thatch overhead. The arrieros drove the 
 
AMONG THE AYMARAS 127 
 
 Aymaras out — they were part of a pack-train, 
 and not natives of that district — and threw the 
 sheepskin pads over the muddy ground. The 
 alcohol-lamp, screened from drafts by saddles, 
 sheepskins, and hats, finally furnished a luke- 
 warm tin of soup, some thin, warm tea, and some 
 eggs, which though warm, could hardly be con- 
 sidered cooked. The bitter wind swept through 
 the openings, and no candle could survive, so 
 purely by a sense of touch the frozen spurs and 
 puttees were unbuckled for the instant sleep that 
 came, clothes and all. 
 
 At the break of day we were again in the 
 saddle. The trail the previous day had been 
 hard and rough, but following a general level; 
 but from now on it began steadily to rise. Early 
 in the morning we had gained upon Mount 
 Sorata; in the deceptive distance it loomed ap- 
 parently only a few miles ahead, yet its nearest 
 snow-field was thirty miles away. Lake Titicaca 
 is only a few miles distant, and one of its long 
 arms reaches back into the country in a vast, 
 shallow lagoon covered with a water growth 
 through which swim myriads of fearless water- 
 fowls. In some ancient time a causeway was 
 built over this long arm, solid and substantial. 
 
128 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 and on each side, as we passed over, ducks and 
 snipe and waders eyed us impudently, the length 
 of a fishing rod away, and one, a snipe, flickered 
 along almost under the heels of the pack-mules. 
 Off in the distance was the old Aymara city of 
 Achicachi, still surrounded by the remains of an 
 old mud wall that dates from before Pizarro, 
 where the frosted thatch and tile roofs glittered 
 in the sunlight against the distant cold blue hori- 
 zon of Lake Titicaca. 
 
 Beyond the causeway the trail rose steadily to 
 the mountain pass. The cold mists from Sorata 
 swept down and the line of mules disappeared 
 in its chill fog. It thins, slender wraiths of 
 eddying vapor drift past, and we ride through 
 the ruins of an ancient Aymara town where 
 there was nothing left but the rectangular lines 
 of stone debris ; the few streets were still plainly 
 marked, though the village has been dead these 
 many centuries. Its name is lost; it is not even 
 a tradition. From under some ruined rubbish 
 an Aymara head was thrust out, framed in the 
 acrid, thin smoke from the wretched, make-shift 
 hut; a few sheep were herded within the ruined 
 inclosures, and other small flocks were grazing 
 near. The head proved to belong to their shep- 
 
 I 
 
The Few Streets Were Still Plainly Marked, Though the 
 Village Has Been Dead These Many Centuries 
 
AMONG THE AYMARAS 129 
 
 herd, tending them until the time of their trans- 
 mutation into chalona. 
 
 Now and again an Aymara shrine loomed 
 through the mist beside the trail, in its niche an 
 offering of wilted flowers and some cigarette pic- 
 tures, and above, in a crevice of the stones and 
 dried mud, a crooked twig cross. Sometimes we 
 met an Aymara, with a bundle of reeds, sitting 
 in the shelter of a rough stone wind-break mak- 
 ing and testing his reed flutes. He whittled the 
 reed and tested each finger-hole as he scraped it 
 larger. He looked up, and again we were 
 saluted with the respectful " Tatal " for in order 
 to reach the last stage of the mountain pass we 
 had swung back on the main trail, where the In- 
 dians were more sociable. More stone and mud 
 shrines appeared, each with its offering of pro- 
 pitiation to the gods of these higher places and 
 each with its twig cross above. 
 
 Higher, rougher, and steeper grew the trail, 
 often in a zigzag up some precipitous gorge. A 
 tiny, scattering Indian village came in sight, 
 Huaylata, perched on a high, rolling part of this 
 Andean pass. Its mud huts were smaller, 
 grimier, and drearier, if possible, than those that 
 we had passed on the great plateau. A few 
 
130 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Aymaras appeared and tried to sell us cebada, or 
 barley, for the mules ; an old woman, squatting 
 on the ground, weaving a poncho on her log 
 loom, stopped long enough to look over our 
 cavalcade curiously out of her bleared eyes red 
 with smoke. Through the little door of her hut 
 the interior was visible, stacked with chalona 
 half prepared and waiting for the sun to shine 
 before it was moved out into the open ground 
 for further drying. 
 
 Indifferently she watched me extract the 
 camera from my saddle-bag, but when the brass 
 lens pointed in her direction, she clattered 
 vigorously in her dialect and scuttled into the 
 house to hide. The other Aymaras were in- 
 stantly hostile, and I worked a scheme that had 
 often succeeded. I turned my back to them and 
 reversed the camera, with the lens pointing back- 
 ward under my arm. This would almost in- 
 variably get the picture. If it did not, I would 
 stand behind the broad shoulders of one of the 
 party while I adjusted the camera, and then 
 have him step suddenly to one side as I pressed 
 the button. Otherwise they would scatter like 
 a flock of Chinamen under similar conditions, 
 and with angry mutterings. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 OVER THE FIRST GREAT PASS 
 
 THE intermittent fog and mist turned to a 
 cold rain that drove in stinging gusts 
 square in our faces. Slowly we climbed, 
 and went a few miles beyond the divide. A 
 huge pile of loose stones marked the spot, a tri- 
 bute to the particular god of this high place that 
 had slowly accumulated with the offerings of 
 Aymaras that had passed the spot. The pile 
 was larger than an Aymara hut, and on the sum- 
 mit was a little cross of twigs from which a few 
 strips of calico fluttered in the gale. At the 
 base were curious little altars made by two flat 
 stones laid edge up, and with a third long, flat 
 stone across them. They symbolized a house 
 and were erected by some prospective Aymara 
 bridegroom or house-builder in propitiation 
 for his enterprise. The cross that surmounted 
 all of these shrines and piles of stone has been 
 readily adopted by the pantheistic Aymara, who 
 
 131 
 
132 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 is only too fearful lest some unknown god may 
 have escaped his efforts at placation. Around 
 the base of the cairn were the withered and 
 frost-bitten remains of floral offerings and also 
 the scraps of cigarette pictures, the latter, from 
 their invariableness, apparently one of the chief 
 delights of the gods. 
 
 At rare intervals some eddying rift would be 
 blown in the mists, and for a brief moment 
 Mount Sorata would stand clear and sharp 
 against the blue patch of sky, with its great white 
 shoulder scarcely more than five miles away 
 across a precipitous gorge. High above our 
 world it seemed to rise, a titanic, bulking, 
 cataclysmic mass, magnificent in its immensity. 
 Enormous cliffs of snow towered above the 
 scarred, black gorges of its flanks, glittering in 
 the flash of momentary sunlight and iridescent in 
 the purple shadows. High against its face 
 clouds were born and were shredded in the blast 
 of an unseen gale; now and again an avalanche 
 of snow broke from some slope and was whirled 
 in a feathery spray into the shadows of a gorge 
 thousands of feet below. It could blanket a 
 dozen villages, yet it was diminished on the tre- 
 mendous slopes until it seemed no more than the 
 
OVER THE FIRST GREAT PASS 133 
 
 BI,IZZARDS BI.OWING OV^R THE ANDEAN PASSES. 
 
 tiny avalanche on a tin roof at home; before it 
 can fall to the depths of the gorge a gale has 
 caught it and it is blown in a stinging blizzard 
 half way across the mountain's face. Vertically, 
 nearly two miles above the trail across the 
 divide, rose the white fang of the summit, that 
 has still defied all efforts at scaling; there, ac- 
 cording to the Aymara belief, is the chief treas- 
 ure of the god of the mountain, a great golden 
 bull. The generous pantheism of the Aymara 
 has given a similar golden treasure to the sum- 
 
134 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 mit of Illomani back near La Paz, but in that 
 case, in order that the balance of conflicting reli- 
 gions might be kept, it is a huge cross of gold. 
 
 The difficulties and inaccessibility of these 
 mountains conveys, to the Aymara mind, the 
 idea that they are inhabited by the most power- 
 ful and exclusive of the gods. That hint of ex- 
 clusiveness is enough for them and only with the 
 greatest difficulty have they been prevailed upon 
 to accompany the few climbing expeditions, 
 while weird stories still circulate among them as 
 to the howling and malignant devils that ride 
 the storms in the great gorges high up. The 
 Aymara is already suppiled with enough lesser 
 deities that require continuous and troublesome 
 propitiation so that he does not care to go out of 
 his way up into Sorata and incur another, and 
 possibly hostile and irritated theistic burden. 
 
 After the cairn that marks the divide is 
 passed, the trail leads abruptly downward. At 
 first it is a relief to lean back in the saddle and 
 feel the strain come on the crupper while the 
 breast-strap flaps loosely once more, but hour 
 after hour of constant descent and the constant 
 straining back in the saddle become more irk- 
 some and monotonous than was the leaning for- 
 
OFER THE FIRST GREAT PASS 135 
 
 ward on the upward climb. The mists and cold 
 rains blow in lighter patches and with a softer 
 touch; even occasionally the deep valleys below 
 can be seen marked out in irregular surfaces of 
 soft green where the Aymara farms are budding. 
 The descent is rapid; the pack-train coils about 
 among the buttresses of the mountains along a 
 broad shelf that is often cut into the steep slopes, 
 and always plunging downward. We were al- 
 most below the line of clouds, and a few mo- 
 ments later they were drifting past just overhead, 
 and there, far below us, stretched the deep, 
 crooked valley of Sorata. 
 
 It was the very heart of the Andes. In the 
 wedge-shaped channel of the tortuous valley a 
 slender thread of white torrent narrowed and 
 disappeared in the haze of depth and distance; 
 the huge mountains swept upward like the sides 
 of a great bowl, while delicately floating strata 
 of fleecy clouds seemed to mark off and measure 
 and then accent their enormous altitudes. Be- 
 yond and above them rose other peaks and the 
 jagged fangs of interlocking mountain-ranges 
 that formed this colossal Andean maze; there 
 was no sense of distance; even the feeling of 
 space seemed to be for the instant gone, and un- 
 
136 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 der the long, mellow rays of the afternoon sun, 
 with this vast, shattered universe spread before 
 us, it was as though we had been suddenly trans- 
 lated and left dizzy and bewildered in an opales- 
 cent infinity. 
 
 The Aymara huts that clung to the steep 
 slopes with their little patches of corn were 
 shrunk to miniature; the single bull plowing 
 with a crooked tree-trunk was a diminutive bug, 
 prodded along the furrow by a microscopic in- 
 sect. All the air was filled with the low roar 
 of cascades ; every slope and valley was scarred 
 with the slender, white threads of torrents from 
 the melting snows above. Far ahead, where the 
 buttress of a mountain projected like a hilly 
 peninsula into the Sorata valley, a toy village of 
 scarlet tile and thatched roofs was compactly 
 lodged on the flattened crest. It was the village 
 of Sorata, clinging like a lichen to a spur of the 
 huge, overhanging mountain from which it 
 takes its name. 
 
 Late in the afternoon, although the gorge had 
 long since been cool in the shadows of the inclos- 
 ing mountains, we crossed the old Spanish stone 
 bridge that still spans the torrent of melted 
 snows, where an ancient mill remains to testify 
 
OVER THE FIRST GREAT PASS 137 
 
 to the enterprise of the early Spanish adventur- 
 ers. A short climb up the steep promontory to 
 the village, and we clattered over the paved 
 streets and on into the patio of the sole posada, 
 the old bell-mule leader trotting in with the easy 
 familiarity of many previous trips. 
 
 The proprietress, a plump Cholo lady, made 
 still plumper by the many skirts of her class, all 
 worn at once, so that she swayed and undulated 
 like an antebellum coquette, fluttered about in 
 welcome. Her pink stockinged legs — the skirts 
 come just below the knees — and fancy slashed 
 satin shoes, with the highest of high French 
 heels, teetered about the patio and over the 
 rough floors, giving orders to a drunken Aymara 
 cook and a small Aymara boy, who proved to be 
 the chambermaid. Gracefully she joined in a 
 bottle of stinging Chilean wine and bawled fur- 
 ther orders for our comfort out into the shuffling 
 kitchen. At supper we had soup — chicken soup, 
 with the head and feet floating with the chalona 
 and chuno. There followed a kind of melon, 
 scooped out and loaded with raisins and scraps 
 of pork and whatever other scraps and vegetables 
 were at hand, blistered with a]i, the fiercest and 
 most venomous pepper known to man. 
 
138 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 A real lamp and 
 some f lowe r s 
 graced the bare 
 table and, after the 
 filthy mud huts and 
 smoke-impregnated 
 tambos, with their 
 acrid smoke in- 
 grained in the walls 
 and thatch, the 
 tinned food 
 warmed by the fu- 
 tile flame of an al- 
 cohol lamp, this po- 
 sada glowed with a gaiety and cheer that 
 could not be duplicated. Damask and cut glass 
 could have added nothing to the table ; even the 
 smelly lamp glowed with a seductive radiance 
 in the balmy atmosphere, and reminded us, by 
 contrast, of the tallow candles on the plateau 
 above, where the icy wind blew them to a thin 
 spark of incandescence. 
 
 Here it was necessary to stop and rest the 
 mules for the second and hardest stage of the 
 journey over this Andean pass. Besides, with 
 the more difficult trail ahead the loads of the 
 
 SOI^DERING THE FOOD IN TIN CANS. 
 
OVER THE FIRST GREAT PASS 139 
 
 mules must be lessened. More mules were 
 needed, and more supplies — the staples — corn, 
 chalona, chuno, and rice, and those to be sold- 
 ered in tin cans where the storms of the moun- 
 tains and the rapids in the canons of the interior 
 could not spoil them. Rodriguez pastured the 
 outfit somewhere up the valley until it was again 
 ready; then one day the arrieros were busy 
 weighing the packs, balancing them and lashing 
 them in the nets of rawhide for the easier pack- 
 ing and adjustment. 
 
 Again it was in the pitch blackness that pre- 
 cedes the break of day that we climbed into the 
 saddles for the long pull over this highest and 
 hardest pass that leads into the great tropical 
 basin, the heart of South America. Salmon, a 
 huge black who had drifted in from Jamaica 
 and who baked Sorata bread and attracted the 
 Aymara custom in the plaza on fiestas by whirl- 
 ing in a grotesque dance of his own devising, 
 shuffled down the steep street from his oven to 
 see us off. The huge muscles of his half-naked 
 body rippled in massive shadows in the fading 
 darkness; heavy silver rings dangled from his 
 ears against the black, bull neck and matched 
 the brass and silver with which his fingers were 
 loaded. 
 
140 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 He spoke no connected language, for his wan- 
 dering had left him with a scanty and combined 
 vocabulary of English, Spanish, Caribbean 
 French patois, and a sprinkling of Aymara. 
 He was nothing more than a pattering savage, al- 
 though never for an instant did he forsake the 
 proud dignity of his British citizenship. Once, 
 as a gift, he prepared for us a salad ; but as there 
 was no oil to be had in Sorata, with sublime un- 
 selfishness he dedicated one of his own bottles of 
 heavily scented hair-oil to the salad dressing 1 
 
 He stuffed a bottle of atrocious brandy into 
 my saddle-bag, and added a pious " Lord bless 
 ye, sar! " for he was a Methodist, and on Sunday 
 afternoons, in support of his orthodoxy, ap- 
 peared in the plaza loaded down with massive 
 silver ornament, a frock-coat, a battered silk hat 
 balanced on his shaven, bullet-head, a heavy, sil- 
 ver-studded stick, and a black volume under his 
 arm. As there was no chapel, this illusive 
 church stroll was purely a surviving symbolism. 
 
 The jam of pack animals in the narrow street 
 straightened out under the stimulus of the ar- 
 rieros' rawhide thongs and we clattered by the 
 little plaza and on up a narrow, rain-washed 
 gully flanked with the thatched mud huts of the 
 Aymaras, on past the walled cemetery and into 
 
OVER THE FIRST GREAT PASS 141 
 
 the steep trail that led up the 
 mountains. High above us the 
 peaks were still hidden in soft 
 masses of clouds that were already 
 golden under the first rays of the 
 morning sun. The trail wound 
 in and out, fol- 
 lowing the trace ^'^^ 
 of the steep foot- ji^^^^ ^-^ \ 
 hills that b 
 
 SCATTERED IN HYSTERICAI, FLIGHT UP AND DOWN THE PRECIPI- 
 TOUS SLOPES. 
 
 tress Mount Sorata, but always rising, sometimes 
 abruptly, and then again in a series of steadily 
 ascending dips along a succession of narrow 
 ledges. 
 
142 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 On one of these nar- 
 row ledges we came 
 around a corner suddenly 
 on a large pack-train of 
 X llamas and on the in- 
 J stant they scattered in 
 y hysterical fright up and 
 down the precipitous 
 ,, V slopes with the sure-foot- 
 <^^^ edness of mountain-goats. 
 \ An hour later we could 
 A ^ / still see their Aymara 
 ■0>, drivers, far below us, 
 crawling over the slopes 
 with the slings hurling 
 pebbles at the stupid 
 beasts in their efforts to 
 V "^^ collect them on the trail. 
 ^^^ Rapidly the semi- 
 tropical vegetation that 
 flourished in the lower 
 altitude of the village of 
 S o ra ta disappeared; 
 more rugged and hardier 
 SKIRTED THE BASE OF AN UN- shrubs succccdcd, and 
 BROKEN CUFF. thcse, too, in their turn 
 
OVER THE FIRST GREAT PASS 143 
 
 disappeared and nothing was left but the storm 
 scarred patches of high pasture. Above these 
 the wet, black rocks of the Andes thrust their 
 jagged masses into the air in sullen cliffs sur- 
 mounted by snow-capped minarets and pin- 
 nacles. Only once I saw a condor, for they are 
 not common, sailing lazily a couple of hundred 
 feet below us. It was a distinct disappoint- 
 ment. The white puff of downy feathers about 
 the neck identified it, but amid these impressive 
 surroundings it seemed no more than a sparrow 
 flitting about in a down-town city street. 
 
 For miles we skirted the base of an unbroken 
 cliff that rose three hundred feet sheer from the 
 trail, and then suddenly came upon a ragged 
 break in the wall that accommodatingly opened 
 a passage where the trail climbed to meet it. 
 The narrow passageway was as dim as the dusk 
 of evening; it zigzagged through the cliff in a 
 series of high steps cut or worn in the rock; the 
 high walls on each side and its tortuous turnings 
 shut out all light except such as fell from the 
 illuminated strip of sky above. Here and there 
 tumbled walls of stones suggested the possibility 
 of ancient barricades, and no more weird a set- 
 ting could be devised to set a fanciful adventure 
 afloat in fiction. 
 
144 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 That night we made camp in the open in a 
 little gorge, and sheltered ourselves in the lee of 
 an enormous boulder. The packs were piled in 
 a wall, and over this the tent was thrown and 
 held down by heavy stones. A blinding snow- 
 squall roared through the narrow gorge as 
 through a pipe; later it changed to a stinging 
 blizzard, where the tiny particles of ice stung 
 like a sand-blast. There was no fuel for a fire, 
 and only by carefully barricading the alcohol 
 lamp could a little thin tea be warmed. That, 
 together with cold tinned things and a nip of 
 Salmon's effective brandy made shift for dinner. 
 
 The tough little mules, hobbled and turned 
 out to graze among the shale and thin, snow- 
 covered grass, made no effort to seek a lee 
 shelter and wandered about, indifferent to the 
 gale. An Aymara family, driving a few burros 
 packed with rubber, spent the night in the lee 
 of a small, overhanging rock. There was a 
 baby not two years old in the family, yet, with- 
 out a fire and with nothing but raw chalona, 
 they made their customary camp. Their heads 
 were heavily muffled as usual, but the dawn 
 found their bare legs drifted over with five 
 inches of snow, and apparently comfortable and 
 indifferent to the fact. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 THE TOLL GATE AND MAPIRI 
 
 PACKING the mules in the bitter winter 
 dawn was slow work. The rawhide lash- 
 ings were frozen stiff; our saddles were 
 covered with sleet, before we could mount 
 and swing into them; two arrieros were drunk 
 together with Agamemnon, but the latter alone 
 was helpless and useless after the tender care 
 he had bestowed on a secreted bottle of alcohol. 
 His usual chocolate grin was lost in the agonies 
 of " de mis'ry in de haid, sar," and, utterly de- 
 jected, he rode along with his wooly skull naked 
 to the sleet and with an ice-coated sock as a 
 bandage to keep it within the normal circum- 
 ference. 
 
 Whatever course the trail turned, the bliz- 
 zard seemed to shift to meet us again square in 
 the teeth. The shale and debris along the nar- 
 row ledge of trail was treacherous with an icy 
 
 145 
 
146 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 glare. The saddle buckles were knots of ice, 
 and every now and then we beat our hats against 
 
 ANDEAN MOUNTAINEER. 
 
THE TOLL GATE AND MAPIRI 147 
 
 the mule to break the ice that encrusted them; 
 on my poncho the sleet froze in a thin sheet that 
 would crackle with any movement and rattle off. 
 The particles of ice and snow did not fall as in 
 a self-respecting gale, but were whipped along 
 in the blast in streaks that never seemed to drop. 
 In the high, thin air, the bitter cold of the storm 
 seemed to bite like an acid. Even though the 
 mules were mountain-bred, the rare air of this 
 high pass affected them and as we climbed 
 higher, they began to halt every fifty yards for 
 breath, with their icicled flanks heaving in dis- 
 tress. In a moment they would start on again 
 of their own accord, yet sometimes in the fiercer 
 blasts of the storm only the constant spur would 
 keep them in the trail and headed for the pass 
 above. 
 
 At last there was the feel of a level stretch 
 under hoof, and there loomed the big mound of 
 stones, with a twig cross on top and its strips of 
 calico whipped to shreds; the summit of the 
 pass had been reached. The small house-build- 
 ers' altars at the base were drifted over with 
 snow; a few twig crosses sticking out of the 
 snow marked the Aymara graves of some who 
 had been of mark among their people, for it is 
 
148 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 a great and desirable honor to be buried high 
 up among the mountain gods. The lesser 
 Aymaras, dying on the trail, are left, or rolled 
 over a convenient steep slope. In the lee of the 
 stone cairn a solitary Aymara was resting; his 
 coarse, woolen trousers rolled above his knees, 
 his feet bare. His eyes grinned at us from out 
 the poncho mufflings, and I recognized him as 
 a little Indian who was picked out to carry for us 
 a long cross-cut saw that was too awkward to be 
 lashed on a mule. He dug the saw out of a 
 drift to show us that it was still safe, and for less 
 than two dollars he delivered the saw after a 
 six-days' journey across the pass and into 
 Mapiri, his only equipment for the trip being a 
 small bag of parched corn, a chalona rib, and 
 the invariable pouch of coca. 
 
 Late in the afternoon we rode into the 
 Aymara village of Yngenio. There had been 
 but a slight drop since leaving the summit and 
 the rocky pocket in which the village exists was 
 covered with a light snow. The Aymaras here 
 are miners and looked with unfavoring eyes on 
 the outfits passing through. There was an 
 empty house of dry-laid stones with a tattered 
 roof of blackened thatch that was used as a pub- 
 
There Loomed the Big Mound of Stones, with a Twig 
 Cross on Top 
 
THE TOLL GATE AND MAPIRI 149 
 
 lie shelter by any passing party, and a walled 
 corral into which the mules were driven. 
 
 In this village the huts were chiefly of stone 
 chinked with mud and grass; some even rose to 
 the dignity of two stories with a rough ladder 
 leading above. Three mountain torrents joined 
 in this gulch to form the Yngenio River. The 
 Aymaras bed these torrents with flat stones in 
 the dry season and after the next high water has 
 passed, wash the fresh gold brought down in 
 their wooden pans. But all about were the 
 ruins of elaborate ancient gold workings that 
 indicated that this was one of the centers from 
 which the Incas drew their enormous golden 
 treasure. All along the gulch as we rode in 
 there were the broken openings of tunnels and 
 drifts high up on the mountain-sides. Some 
 had been concealed by walling up and this had 
 been torn away by some later Spanish prospector 
 or had tumbled in during the course of time. 
 
 There were the remains of a great flume and 
 of the stone-laid troughs where the streams were 
 diverted and laid their nuggets in the crude rif- 
 fles — even as they still do in other Aymara work- 
 ings. Near the junction of the three torrents 
 there was an immense rectangular pile of care- 
 
I50 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 fully laid stones, with carefully constructed 
 ramps leading from one level to the next. 
 Throughout this district there were also many 
 little, low, round stone huts that reminded one 
 forcibly of the Esquimaux igloo; they were of 
 great age, their arches had fallen in, and the 
 stones were black with the centuries of aging. 
 
 The present day Aymaras raise a little corn 
 and potatoes for chuno, some sheep for chalona, 
 while a few muscular pigs make the razor-back 
 seem fat by comparison. The arrieros foraged 
 among the huts for cebada for the mules and a 
 chicken or some eggs for us, but the Aymaras 
 either had none or else surlily refused to sell, 
 but there was fuel and with that a fine hot tinned 
 dinner was prepared. 
 
 The following day the pack-mules filed from 
 one hog-back mountain ridge to another, crawl- 
 ing up the steep ascents or gingerly picking 
 their way downward over an intricate system of 
 connecting mountain series. Hour after hour 
 the bitter winds blew without rest. At times we 
 would be a long column on some ridge that 
 dropped away on either side in a steep declivity; 
 the great depths, whenever they became visible 
 through a rift in the clouds below, gave the 
 
THE TOLL GATE AND MAPIRI 15 ii 
 
 valleys beneath the blue haze of distance, while 
 a glass revealed the heavy vegetation, the palms, 
 and the mellow glow of warm sunlight. Far- 
 ther on the trail would cling, a mere ledge, to 
 the side of cliffs where the melted snow, drip- 
 ping from the stirrup, would fall a couple of 
 hundred feet sheer. 
 
 On the narrow ledges of the trail there were 
 the most abrupt turns and sharp angles and often 
 a rough series of steps up which the mules would 
 clamber in plunging jumps. There was no dan- 
 ger as long as one put faith in the mule and did 
 not attempt to over-balance him by leaning too 
 far to the cliff; those sure-footed animals have 
 no desire to kill themselves or slip carelessly and 
 they may be implicitly depended upon. In one 
 particularly bad descent known as the " Tor- 
 nillo " no one rode down. It was a zigzag trail 
 apparently cut in the face of an almost per- 
 pendicular cliff, and the arrieros took the pack- 
 train down in sections, so that, in the event of 
 one mule stumbling, it would not bump half 
 the others over the edge. 
 
 Just beyond the " Tornlllo " we passed a llama 
 train. One of the Aymaras came toward us, one 
 arm supporting the other at the wrist and his 
 
152 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 face drawn with pain and fright, chiefly fright, 
 out of all proportion to the simple sprain. He 
 stopped uncertainly, a short distance off, and re- 
 peated, "Tata! Tata!" over and over, plain- 
 tively pointing to his injured wrist. It was a 
 simple matter to bind it up and throw in a few 
 impressive and magic gestures, and with a dis- 
 tinctly beneficial effect, for he began to grin 
 cheerfully. The pain was nothing; it was the 
 fact that he had fallen that had worried him. 
 The Aymara, as sure-footed as a goat or one of 
 his own llamas, a mountaineer by birth, is wor- 
 ried when he stumbles and falls ; it is one of the 
 very local gods clutching at him, and every one 
 knows the powerlessness of a mere mortal when 
 a god gets after him. 
 
 Months later, in a little interior village in the 
 montafia, I met this same Aymara. He came 
 forward grinning and beaming and then, about 
 ten feet off, shuffled from one foot to the other 
 in respectful and embarrassed gratitude. Evi- 
 dently the magic gestures had done their work 
 well and had so far frustrated the peevish god 
 who had been after him. In bandaging him my 
 hand had slipped over the muscles of the arm 
 and, although they lay without tension, they 
 
I 
 
 THE TOLL GATE AND MAPIRI 153 
 
 were like bundles of steel cables ; in that stubby, 
 squat figure lay the strength of a gorilla. In 
 La Paz I had seen the Aymara cargadores walk 
 off with three hundred pounds of flour — some- 
 times more, — and carry it with ease half a mile 
 in that rarified atmosphere. Another time, at 
 Guaqui, a cargadore picked up with his shoul- 
 der rope a piano in its case, and carried it across 
 the tracks of the railroad yard. 
 
 That night we camped in a tiny stone hut built 
 by the government on a high, mountain promon- 
 tory where the clearest weather known is a dull, 
 depressing, drizzling rain. An outfit of Ay- 
 maras were already crowded in and Rodriguez 
 hustled them out again, in fact, they were al- 
 ready packing up their scanty outfit preparing 
 to move when they saw the mules coming. Out- 
 side in the mud, there were the remnants of a 
 human skeleton, picked clean by the eagles and 
 tramped carelessly in the mud. The skull hung 
 from a stick jammed into the wall of the hut. 
 
 " Aymara! " remarked Rodriguez contemptu- 
 ously,as he pried it out and tossed it over into 
 the canon below. That was his delicate tribute 
 to the sensitiveness of the gringoes who, he thinks 
 may not fancy a skull as a wall ornament. 
 
154 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 With this camp, the last of the high pass was 
 over and in the gray dawn we began the long 
 descent out of the clouds, the sleet, the snow, and 
 the bitter rains. The bare clififs and slopes gave 
 way, and stunted shrubs appeared now and then 
 even a gaunt tree reared itself, and, perched on 
 a dead branch, an occasional buzzard or eagle 
 looked with a speculative eye at the mules and 
 the steep descents. We dropped through long 
 distances of sunlight that glowed with a grateful 
 and novel warmth, and once in a while a brilliant 
 little bird flashed past, while gorgeous butter- 
 flics began to flutter about the mud-holes. The 
 eastern side of the Andes drop in a succession of 
 forest-clad cliffs ; looking up and back, it seemed 
 at times hardly possible that a trail could cling 
 to the steep face. Many of the hardest have 
 names — Amargarani, the " hill of bitterness " — 
 Cayatana-y-huata, the ^' place where Cayatana 
 fell " are directly suggestive. 
 
 There is no more telling strain than leaning 
 back hour upon hour as the mule picks his way 
 downward, but it is forgotten in the relief of 
 basking in the mellow rays of the long afternoon 
 sun, and it was grateful that night to be able 
 to undress in place of turning in " all standing," 
 
THE TOLL GATE AND MAPIRI 155 
 
 except for spurs, and in place of the howling 
 gale and the snow that sifted through the crev- 
 ices, to hear the soft rustling of the night-blown 
 palms. An open-work hut of split palm and 
 cane was kept here by a Bolivian who was under 
 some kind of vague government subsidy, and un- 
 der his palm roof we slung our hammocks. 
 
 His Aymara wife was stolidly indifferent to 
 our presence, but a little daughter — a mere baby 
 she would be considered back in the States — had 
 an unbounded curiosity in the white men — white 
 men especially who wore queer, transparent 
 stones set in glittering frames before their nat- 
 ural eyes. A watch was even more mysterious, 
 "Ah," she announced, " there is a bug inside! " 
 Following the matter up, she decided that the 
 watch was a bug itself and marveled greatly 
 that a full-grown man should bother to carry a 
 bug about on the end of a little string, unless — 
 aha! it was a magic, and she dropped the watch, 
 nor would she touch it again. Thereat she 
 showed me a scapular and offered to take me 
 up the trail a bit where there were some graves 
 and I could see some ghosts, and perhaps talk 
 with them, as she did. Not among any of the 
 Aymaras was I ever able to notice any particular 
 
156 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 interest or fear in regard to their dead. Their 
 trails are scattered with graves and mountain 
 tragedies, they believe in spirits, but the almost 
 universal fear of ghosts, dead spirits, or ceme- 
 teries after dark is apparently lacking. In fact, 
 in Sorata, it was no common thing to hear them 
 drinking and celebrating under the cemetery 
 walls far into the late hours. 
 
 Pleasantly from here the rest of the trail ran 
 on down into Mapiri. The giant foothills of the 
 Andes surrounded us, but they were covered 
 with forest and jungle, and for miles we would 
 ride in the cool shade where the trees were 
 matted overhead by the interlocking jungle- 
 vines. Little trails opened off now and again 
 from the main road, and often would be seen 
 the cane hut of some pioneer. Down the valleys 
 were patches of sugar-cane, with the smoke of a 
 falca, alcohol-still, rising close by, and as we 
 rode closer, the smell of burned sugar where 
 chancaca, something like maple-sugar in appear- 
 ance, was being poured into molds gouged out 
 of a dry log. 
 
 Occasionally, in the forest, a thin column of 
 blue smoke showed where some rubber-picker 
 was smoking his morning's collection of rubber 
 
THE TOLL GATE AND MAPIRI 157 
 
 milk. On all this the sun beat with its full, 
 tropical strength, and the raw fogs and blizzards 
 of the high pass seemed to be months behind us. 
 Coffee, tea, and tinned things, but now comfort- 
 ably warmed or gratefully cool, were served 
 alongside the trail at the brief noon-day halt and 
 what was left of a bunch of bananas cut from the 
 patch in the camp of the previous night added 
 the final touch. In the cool of the early evening 
 we rode into the village of Mapiri, and the sad- 
 dles were taken off and oiled and packed for the 
 last time. From here on the journey would be 
 by raft and batalon on the rivers. The moun- 
 tain trail was ended. 
 
 The village has a long, grass-grown plaza on 
 two sides; toward the muddy Mapiri River the 
 plaza is open, and the entering end is blocked by 
 a mud church with a mud-walled yard, loop- 
 holed and battlemented. Once a year a priest 
 makes the trip to Mapiri and down the river, 
 performing his offices as they are needed. He 
 blesses the graves of the dead, christens the liv- 
 ing, and performs canonical marriages for those 
 who desire, and can afford, the luxury. 
 
 A squat Cholo welcomed us ; he was the head 
 man of the settlement and gave us one of his 
 
158 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 houses for our headquarters. While he talked 
 with us, a monkey climbed up his leg and coiled 
 its tail affectionately about his neck. A pink- 
 faced little marmoset, with a black-tipped tail, 
 overcame his first nervousness and chattered at 
 us from the refuge of the eaves, while a thin, 
 waving spider-monkey cooed with weird, sprawl- 
 ing gestures at the end of his tether, and from 
 the high, peaked roof a dozen parrots shrieked 
 their evening songs to the sunset. The Cholo's 
 wife, a thin, shrewish Aymara, viewed us with 
 disfavor; for days she refused to sell us eggs 
 while we were waiting for the rafts to arrive, 
 and then she threw away five dozen that had 
 spoiled on her hands. When her Cholo husband 
 saw this lost profit he said nothing, but that night 
 sounds that suggested a primitive family disci- 
 pline arose in his household and pierced the little 
 village. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 WAITING FOR THE LECCOS 
 
 FOR a month we waited in this tiny strag- 
 gling rectangle of thatched huts before the 
 balsas or callapos could get up to us to 
 move our outfit down the river. Somewhere 
 below us on the turbulent river Lecco crews 
 were toiling up against the current, dragging 
 and clawing their way through narrow canons, 
 hanging fast in places to the bare rock, and again 
 helped by the long, tropical vines that drooped 
 to the swift water. Twice they had been beaten 
 back by sudden rises in the river; the third time 
 they got through, although two balsas had been 
 wrecked and for the past two days they had lived 
 mainly on the berries and leaves along the jungle 
 banks. 
 
 A splendid lot of half-civilized people, tre- 
 mendous of muscle and capable of prodigous 
 feats of strength and endurance on their rivers; 
 
 159 
 
i6o ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 ashore sober and diffident, afloat on their rafts, 
 by right of an immemorial custom they are al- 
 ways drunk and serenely confident in their in- 
 tuitive skill. 
 
 For twenty-four hours after they arrived on 
 the hot stone beach below the bluff on which 
 Mapiri lived they drank and feasted and slept 
 and then their head man, a Bolivian refugee, an- 
 nounced that all was in readiness. The gang of 
 workmen we had chartered were collected and 
 counted and then assigned to the three callapos, 
 a queer lot, but in the main fairly promising for 
 our purposes. 
 
 One was a negro who had been a rubber picker 
 down the river before. During his absence his 
 wife had left him preferring a gentleman of 
 lighter color, but who had only one eye; some 
 frontier mechanic had hammered a patch out 
 of a silver coin and then engraved with a nail 
 the ragged outlines of an eye, which the owner 
 proudly wore as a most elegant makeshift. Both 
 of these gentlemen were in the outfit and ordi- 
 narily both would boast in the utmost good na- 
 ture of their fascinations with the ladies — except 
 when they were in process of getting drunk. 
 And on the Bolivian frontier getting drunk is rec- 
 
WAITING FOR THE LECCOS i6i 
 
 ognized as a perfectly legitimate pastime. 
 There are no games, no concerted forms of 
 amusement, the montana offers nothing except 
 these little gatherings with some childish hop- 
 ping as a dance and then the tin cans of canassa 
 and the ensuing drunkenness. 
 
 There was another man in the gang, a stocky, 
 loose-jointed fellow, Segorrondo, who was never 
 sober, except during his working hours, but dur- 
 ing that time he was worth any two of the other 
 men — and he never failed to turn up sober for 
 that allotted period. His capacity was nothing; 
 three times in one afternoon in Mapiri he was 
 sober and drunk, with the lines of demarcation 
 startlingly distinct. He rarely joined in the lit- 
 tle hoppings to the reed whistle with his face 
 daubed with clay or charcoal and decorated with 
 bits of twigs or leaves, yet he was perfectly soci- 
 able and never dangerous. Later, in the estab- 
 lished camp down the river, there came a three 
 day fiesta for which he prepared in advance. 
 There was a falca — a still for making the can- 
 assa from a half-wild sugar-cane — up the river, 
 and he drove his bargain before the fiesta began. 
 He was, for the sum of one Boliviano — about 
 half a dollar, gold — to be allowed to drink all he 
 
i62 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 chose during the three days, but was to carry 
 none away. 
 
 Long before dawn on the first day he was at 
 the falca; for three days he never moved from 
 the litter of crushed sugar-cane, lying in a stupor 
 from which he only roused himself to reach out 
 shakily for a tin cup of warm alcohol as it 
 dripped from the still-worm. We expected a 
 wreck to show up, but on the morning of the 
 fourth day he returned, grinning cheerfully, and 
 worked as though nothing had occurred. 
 
 Also there was Nosario, a stocky boy of about 
 twelve or fourteen, who had been added as gen- 
 eral utility around the cook or camp. He was 
 worthless and it later developed that his wife, 
 a Cholo lady of some thirty or forty years, had 
 prodded him into the effort in order to add to her 
 matrimonial support. 
 
 Agamemnon viewed the whole collection with 
 great scorn. " These yer pipple ain't noways 
 fitten, ba's," he would remark. The other darky 
 was included in his disfavor. 
 
 Agamemnon always swelled with pride at the 
 thought that he was a Britisher by birth — born 
 in Barbadoes — and he counted Americans as be- 
 ing too subtly differentiated to be separated; 
 
WAITING FOR THE LECCOS 163 
 
 humbly accepting his place as assigned in their 
 eyes, he looked down with scorn on these sham- 
 bling, good natured animals. 
 
 During the four weeks of delay in Mapiri 
 we had seen much of a neighboring rubber 
 baron, old man Violand, whose barraca was a 
 half day's ride over the steep trails. The old 
 man was as typically Teutonic as though he had 
 but just pushed his mild, blue-eyed way into the 
 jungle. His headquarters — a square of palm- 
 thatched and palm-walled buildings — was self- 
 sustaining from the coarse flour that a row of 
 Indian women were grinding between heavy 
 stones in one corner of the patio to his coffee and 
 also a superior brand of canassa distilled in a 
 wooden worm, cooled in a hollow palm log, 
 which really had the flavor of a fine liqueur. 
 He had been the chief figure in a couple of rub- 
 ber wars over disputed territory with his nearest 
 neighbor some thirty miles away and he showed 
 a spattering of bullet holes in every room of his 
 house with delighted pride. The dispute was a 
 trifle complicated, but as the result, his opponent 
 was a fugitive from Bolivia while Violand him- 
 self tiptoed into Sorata or occasionally La Paz 
 with some caution. 
 
i64 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Often during the month we rode down to see 
 him — he would have had us stay there for life. 
 No sooner did our mules round the shoulder of 
 the hill than we could see some small Indian 
 boy darting off with the news. The familiar 
 figure of the old man would bulk in the doorway 
 to confirm the news and then his voice would be- 
 gin booming out orders; chickens squawked, 
 sheep blatted, and at once the place was a tur- 
 moil of pursuit. From an outbuilding would 
 come the blue smoke of fresh fires and the shrill 
 clacking of the well-grimed Aymara cook sum- 
 moning her family help. Always were we 
 greeted thus and always there was a ready crowd 
 of Indians at our heels on the crest of the boom 
 to take the mules when we arrived and feed 
 and water or put them up for the night. 
 
 The formalities over or properly supervised, 
 Violand would seat himself at a huge table with 
 the top a single plank of solid mahogany three 
 inches thick and before the ingredients for a gin 
 cocktail. At his elbow a tiny little girl, one of 
 the daughters of the Aymara cook, took her posi- 
 tion to trot out for anything lacking in the first 
 array. A gin cocktail is sugar, Angostura bit- 
 ters, and gin — and I have seen it served in full 
 
WAITING FOR THE LECCOS 165 
 
 goblets. All the rest of the forenoon the host 
 would busy himself compounding this. It made 
 not the slightest difference whether anyone else 
 in the party joined him or not, genially he would 
 attend to it himself in little sips whose cumula- 
 tive effect was prodigious. As the midday 
 breakfast hour approached he would roar for 
 pisco, a species of Peruvian brandy, and then, 
 as the little Aymara maiden announced the final 
 hour of nutrition, champagne. 
 
 And then the dinner, half a sheep, or a whole 
 pig and once the head of a young bullock to 
 whose cooking the old man had given personal 
 attention, waddling back and forth from the ma- 
 hogany table to the cook house accompanied by 
 the little Aymara girl fluttering in a state of ec- 
 static excitement. For the rest there were the 
 chickens and the native foods, the chalona slowly 
 simmered for a day to make it taste like food, 
 with the chuna floating in it like so many old 
 medicine corks, the chickens, the platanos, boiled 
 green and pith-like or better in their black, melt- 
 ing over-ripeness and to be eaten with a spoon, 
 baked and delicious, native bread from home 
 made flour, and imported preserves for dessert. 
 Also there was champagne and whiskey and 
 
i66 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 pisco and canassa and gin cocktails again until 
 in final triumph a little beer — everything luke- 
 warm or tepid from the shallows of the tropical 
 brook. 
 
 By and by the old man would venture on a 
 German song or two and then beckon to the little 
 beady-eyed Aymara girl; off she would dart to 
 return with a couple of heavy footed Indian 
 women. The host would rise — with assistance 
 — and trolling some uncertain song march off 
 to his bedroom to doze. And the rest of the time 
 would be spent with his son and manager, both 
 fine, pink cheeked young Germans who looked 
 after affairs. It sounds like a wassail, though 
 ias a matter of fact, it was old Violand who was 
 the chief performer — he was an old man, civili- 
 zation was far away, eight days to La Paz over 
 pass and plateaus and blizzard and after that 
 to Germany — six months for a letter and an an- 
 swer! 
 
 Later he would reappear suddenly, generally 
 clad in a shrimp pink bath gown, a patent, Ger- 
 man Emperor-moustache-shaper over his mous- 
 tache, and groping for his spectacles. When 
 they were found he once more settled himself for 
 a pleasant time, generally having to go through 
 
WAITING FOR THE LECCOS 167 
 
 a second search for a key so that another bottle 
 of bitters could be produced. 
 
 The morning after, he would appear, fresh 
 and blue-eyed and solicitous. 
 
 " You hef a goot time — yes? " then he would 
 chuckle until he shook in ponderous ripples and 
 go on in Spanish, " I do not remember much — 
 after dinner — yesterday — a good dinner — yes? 
 A good dinner is much in this country of the 
 black gold — the rubber — yes — we drink a little 
 for the digestion, la, la — yes. Hoi, mozo — " the 
 little Indian girl clattered inside for the bottles 
 — " just one little cocktail before the saddle — 
 yes? " His face would beam in its frame of thin 
 whiskers with the proudly upstanding German- 
 emperor-moustaches the center of their radia- 
 tions. 
 
 In the jungles across the river from Mapifi 
 was another rubber barraca in which a Bolivian 
 owner held court. Every morning we could see 
 a dozen thin threads of blue smoke trickling 
 above the forest where his pickers were smoking 
 their morning collection of rubber milk. Over 
 there the canassa was always on draft for all at 
 all times, while half the week was a fiesta and 
 Sunday a brawling bedlam. 
 
t68 across the ANDES 
 
 Slowly the days dragged on with an occasional 
 rumor of the progress of the Leccos and the 
 callapos. Once, as much to furnish a variation 
 as anything else, I routed out a couple of jars 
 of mincemeat and ventured on some pies. An 
 oven was heated, a big clay dome, such as our 
 great-great-grandmothers used, from out of 
 which the fire was drawn and on a long handled 
 paddle I shoved in a load of pies. Almost in- 
 stantly they browned and then passed to a crisp 
 black before the paddle could maneuver them 
 out again. The native population, however, ap- 
 preciated them highly. It was small loss as the 
 manufacture of pie crust is somewhat of an un- 
 dertaking — at least in that tropical temperature. 
 The lard, native or imported, is a beautiful am- 
 ber liquid that is bought or carried in bottles 
 and pours with no more deliberation than so 
 much water. 
 
 A little later a general fiesta in Mapiri helped 
 out the dull waiting a little. We noticed an ex- 
 tra number of candles burning before the altar 
 in the little mud-walled church and for some 
 days before there had been the thrumming of 
 hollow-tree drums from the little huts of the 
 village. The night before the great day, while 
 
WAITING FOR THE LECCOS 169 
 
 it was scarcely dark, the big drums began boom- 
 ing with a typical Indian rhythm ; from the line 
 of huts came the droning wail of the guests that 
 rose and fell in fitful bursts, while now and again 
 a straggling line of drunken Cholos, men and 
 women, in a weaving single file, trotted in a stag- 
 gering hop around the grass grown plaza. 
 There was feasting and drinking and noise ; from 
 the barraca across the river came a delegation to 
 lend a joyous hand. Toward morning it died 
 down, slumbered uneasily during the forenoon, 
 and then began working to a frenzy of excite- 
 ment as evening approached. 
 
 All the drums had been concentrated in the 
 church, tallow dips lined the walls, attached by 
 their own tallow to the sun-baked clay, and cast 
 uncertain masses of shifting shadows that flick- 
 ered in the hot and smoky drafts; overhead a 
 flood of bats chittered in amazement at the in- 
 vasion of their domain. On one side of the 
 church were squatted all of the old women in 
 Mapiri with dull, cafiassa bleared eyes and 
 cheeks distended with coca leaves hammering 
 out a monotonous rhythm on the drums. 
 
 Before the altar and facing it side by side were 
 two lines of the smaller boys with the tallest at 
 
I70 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 the front and then shading down to the rear, each 
 naked to the waist but for some cheap necklaces 
 of gay beads. Each had a forked twig like those 
 we used for our juvenile sling-shots, and strung 
 on a wire or twisted bark thread that connected 
 the forks were a dozen little bits of flat tin ham- 
 mered out of old sardine cans. Like castanets 
 they jiggled the forked stick in rhythm with the 
 drums and as they jiggled shuffling in a hopping, 
 dancing lock-step in single file up to the altar, 
 and then back in the same way half the depth of 
 the beaten earth floor. As one file advanced the 
 other jiggled back and so on alternately. For 
 hours they had kept it up and there was no sign 
 of either a stop or a rest. 
 
 The rest of the villagers flitted in or out as 
 ordinary spectators, still nibbling at portions of 
 the feast or sharing a continuously filled bottle 
 of canassa with the drumming old women. It 
 was not until daybreak that Mapiri dropped into 
 an exhausted rest. 
 
 During this fiesta there had been no shooting 
 of dynamite — that is quarter pound sticks with a 
 short fuse like a fire-cracker. This once more 
 popular amusement had been dampened by the 
 last really important fiesta they had celebrated. 
 
WAITING FOR THE LECCOS 171 
 
 A Cholo gentleman had, it seemed, zigzagged 
 out into the grass grown plaza with his stick of 
 dynamite, lighted it from his cigarette, and then 
 in a drunken effort to throw it away had dropped 
 it. He did not notice this trifling difference in 
 his program and swinging dizzily round with the 
 effort of his throw fell sprawling upon the cart- 
 ridge. His demise is still spoken of with awe on 
 that river. Therefore it was that Mapiri cele- 
 brated a quiet fiesta. 
 
 And then the balsas arrived. Their Lecco 
 crew gorged and slept and drank for a day and 
 then were as fresh as ever, busy in lashing each 
 three balsas together with cross logs to make cal- 
 lapos for the down-stream voyage. Three of 
 these callapos we had and, when loaded with 
 their freight, crews and workmen passengers, 
 their logs were four inches under water, the little 
 platforms on which the baggage was piled and 
 carefully lashed, rising like a little island on 
 stilts above the current. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 OFF ON THE LONG DRIFT 
 
 Along line of half-naked Leccos trotted 
 across the grass-coverjsd bluff and disap- 
 peared over the edge and down the steep 
 path to the river, where our clumsy rafts swung 
 and eddied in the boiling current. They grunted 
 and sweated and laughed as they threw the heavy 
 packages of our outfit on their shoulders, for they 
 could swing a hundred and fifty or two hundred 
 pounds as carelessly as you could handle a va- 
 lise. Steadily the raised platforms on the rafts 
 
 SI.OWI,Y THE RAFTS SANK UNDDR THK WEllGHT. 
 172 
 
OFF ON THE LONG DRIFT 173 
 
 piled higher with the accumulating baggage, 
 while slowly the rafts sank under the weight, 
 until the logs were entirely covered by the muddy 
 current. As the last package was put aboard, 
 the Leccos began lashing the cargo in place with 
 our spare rope and the long vines which they 
 used for towiiig the rafts up-stream. They used 
 as much care in throwing and tightening the lash- 
 ings as though stowing the pack on a " bad " 
 mule for a mountain-trail, rather than a cargo 
 raft that was only to drift with the current. It 
 seemed absurd. 
 
 "Here, good," grunted a Lecco, waving a 
 hand toward the mill-race current; "below, 
 very bad, patron, muy peligroso — yes." 
 
 When later we struck the " bad places," and 
 waist-deep in the boiling, angry waters of the 
 canons, clung to those same lashings, to keep our- 
 selves from being washed overboard, the need of 
 lashing for the baggage was plain. 
 
 The intend ente, the jefe politico, and the only 
 postmaster for many leagues of this virgin in- 
 terior came down to tender us his farewell em- 
 braces ; for as a strict matter of fact those three 
 functionaries resided in the single person of that 
 one short, stocky Cholo half-breed, who had 
 
174 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 given all the hospitality in his power during the 
 dreary weeks of waiting in his little palm- 
 thatched domain, but whose Aymara wife had 
 viewed us with such sullen hospitality. OfBci- 
 ally he noted with 
 approval that we 
 had already com- 
 plied with the 
 Bolivian regula- 
 tions in regard to 
 navigation, and at 
 the bow floated the 
 green, yellow, and 
 red flag of Bolivia, 
 and with much 
 curiosity he viewed 
 our American flag 
 fluttering at the 
 stern. It was the ^ /- 
 first he had ever ir 
 
 ^^ _ T^ 'J THE SHREWISH I^EATHER-SKINNED 
 
 seen. It gamed, indian wife. 
 too, much approval from the Leccos, its decora- 
 tive scheme of stars and red and white bars 
 drawing admiring comment, and we could have 
 Sold it many times over as dress goods or as 
 
 
OFF ON THE LONG DRIFT 175 
 
 strictly high-class shirting. As a special mark 
 of favor the shrewish, leather-skinned Indian 
 wife of the Cholo jefe came down to see us off, 
 and while we patted her lord on the back in 
 our mutually polite embracings, she fluttered 
 in the background, clacking unintelligible, but 
 cordial, Aymara farewells. 
 
 When first we had dismounted in this tiny set- 
 tlement of Mapiri this Aymara woman had 
 borne us a fierce dislike that was kept from literal 
 and open war only by the strong hand of her 
 Cholo lord. A little later, unfortunately, one 
 of our men, in making his offering of candles in 
 the little mud-walled chapel, had ignited a saint. 
 When I saw the saint shortly after, his vest- 
 ments were charred shreds, he was as bald as a 
 singed chicken, and his waxen features had co- 
 agulated into limp benevolence, out of which his 
 sole remaining glass eye stared mildly. He had 
 been placed on a little table up against a mud 
 wall, and the Indian women were weeping and 
 wailing before him in abject apology. They 
 were hastily offering flowers, candles, and liba- 
 tions, but with this last straw the Aymara lady's 
 dislike had become even a more fixed, fanatical 
 hatred. 
 
176 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Shrewish, unattractive, and savage though she 
 was, she was devoted in her love for her Cholo 
 husband. Some time after the burying of the 
 saint, one night their son developed a difference 
 with his father in which each tried to kill the 
 other. The father had just reached his gun and 
 would have been successful when, being thick- 
 necked, violent, and full-blooded, he toppled 
 over in a stroke of apoplexy. There being no 
 doctor, not even an Aymara yatari within three 
 hundred miles, the old lady turned to us in a 
 panic, and, probably despite our amateur efforts, 
 the Cholo pulled through. In the meantime the 
 poor old woman fluttered about in an agony of 
 helpless fear and love, eagerly hanging on the 
 slow words of translation that came to her, for 
 she spoke nothing but Aymara, and everything 
 had to be translated first into Spanish and then 
 into her own tongue. That very night she 
 burned a box of candles before the charred saint, 
 while in the morning we had for our breakfast a 
 fine chicken apiece. Her gratitude endured, 
 and in the quivering furnace heat she had come 
 to see us depart, and as we waded aboard she 
 followed us and laid on the cargo a pair of live 
 chickens as a final gift. 
 
OFF ON THE LONG DRIFT 177 
 
 The Cholo handed us a small sack of mail, 
 asking us to distribute it on our way down the 
 Rio Mapiri, these irregular trips being the sole 
 means of mail communication with the rubber 
 barracas of this far interior; the Leccos cast off 
 the vine ropes that moored us, and a few strokes 
 of their heavy paddles swung us out into the full, 
 swift current of the river. As we struck it there 
 was no feeling of speed or even of motion, but 
 immediately the green walls on each side of the 
 river began flitting past in a shimmering ribbon 
 of confused green jungle. In a moment, far be- 
 hind, came the crackling of rifle-shots. It was 
 the Cholo and his Winchester in salute; even 
 while we were pulling our guns to reply he and 
 his wife had dwindled to tiny dots that the sound 
 of our guns could have reached only as a faint 
 echo. Then a bend in the river hid them from 
 view, and my river voyage had begun. 
 
 The balsas were slender rafts of very buoyant 
 logs spiked together with heavy pins of black 
 palm; they had a rough bow made by the 
 crooked center log, which turned up in a snout- 
 like projection, giving the affair a curiously ani- 
 mal-like and amphibious expression. For the 
 return voyage three of these balsas were lashed 
 
178 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 side by side with cross-logs and strips of the in- 
 ner bark of some tree. The callapo, as this com- 
 bination is called, is entirely submerged and ex- 
 cept for the cargo platform and the turned-up 
 snouts, nothing is visible above the muddy river. 
 As we disappeared around the bend in the 
 swift current, the hills against the background 
 seemed to close in upon us, and as they narrowed^ 
 the muddy river snapped and crackled in peev- 
 ish, little waves. The banks grew steeper, and 
 the air damp and cool, and although directly 
 overhead there was the glaring blue sky of the 
 forenoon, yet we moved swiftly through an at- 
 mosphere of evening. Long, trailing creepers 
 drooped from the overhanging trees into the cur- 
 rent near the banks and cut the water like the 
 spray from the bow of a trim launch; the soft 
 murmur of rapidly moving water rose, and was 
 broken only now and then by the shrill cries of 
 parrots flying high overhead ; sometimes a pair of 
 macaws, with their gaudy plumage flashing in 
 the high sun flitted across the gorge. But 
 though the river doubled and twisted among the 
 hills, there were yet, according to Lecco stand- 
 ards, no " bad places," and they passed the bottle 
 of cafiassa sociably around ameng themselves, 
 
OFF ON THE LONG DRIFT 179 
 
 inspecting their passengers with interest and 
 chuckling over their own comments. They had 
 
 THERE WERE, ACCORDING TO THE I.ECCO STANDARDS, AS YET NO 
 " BAD PI^ACES/" 
 
 never seen a man with eye-glasses before, and I 
 was a matter of fine interest and guesswork. 
 What were those panes of glass for? Cautiously 
 they would make a little circle with their fingers 
 and thumbs and peer through it to see what effect 
 of improvement might result. I received my 
 name, " the four-eyed patron," promptly. 
 
 The whole crew of Leccos was amiably drunk; 
 it is the custom of the river, and it seems in no 
 way to impair their efficiency. It has become 
 
i8o ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 their right by long custom, and one that it is not 
 prudent to disregard; for a trader, being of a 
 thrifty turn and not caring to buy the canassa, 
 decided to run the river on a strict prohibition 
 platform. Every one of his callapos was curi- 
 ously enough v^recked in the same rapids on the 
 day after he announced his thrifty principles. 
 The general allowances is about two quarts a day 
 for three men, and perhaps, if the day has been a 
 hard one, a small teacupful each in the camp. 
 Money to them has no value compared with can- 
 assa. Once, when trying to buy a fine bead neck- 
 band from a Lecco, I offered him money up to 
 a dollar, Bolivian, the equivalent of eight bot- 
 tles of canassa, and he refused, for his Lecco 
 sweetheart had made it; then I began to barter 
 all over again by offering him a bottle of can- 
 assa, and at once he handed me the neck-band 
 without question. 
 
 While the current was swift, from eight to 
 ten miles an hour, we had not come to the bad 
 rapids. Sometimes the river would open out 
 into broad shallows, where the callapo would 
 bump and scrape along over the bottom, and 
 then would close up into another gorge that in 
 its turn would merge into tortuous canons with 
 
OFF ON THE LONG DRIFT i8i 
 
 LECCOS LOWERING THE CALI.APO THROUGH SHALLOWS. 
 
 bluff walls of rock. Drunk though the Leccos 
 were, yet their river skill did not seem to be af- 
 fected When we floated along the quieter 
 reaches, they would play like silly children. Oc- 
 casionally one would be tumbled into the river, 
 and would swim alongside in sheepish embar- 
 rassment until he decided to climb aboard, amid 
 the pleased cackles of the rest. 
 
 One, a young Lecco about seventeen or eigh- 
 teen years old, who handled one of the stern 
 paddles, accidentally stepped off backward into 
 the river. The others shrieked with delight as 
 the Lecco struck out for shore. We saw him 
 land, pull his machete out from under his shirt, 
 and start chopping down some saplings. Per- 
 
1 82 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 haps fifteen minutes later, in the next milder 
 stretch of river, down came the Lecco like a cow- 
 puncher on a pony, only his pony was a bundle 
 of mere sticks lashed together with vine, and in 
 place of a rope he swung a bamboo pole, using 
 it as a paddle. He was standing up like a cir- 
 cus-rider on his frail raft, shifting it with his 
 pole over to where the current was swiftest, and 
 he coasted down the inclined glissade between 
 rocks, avoiding every little eddy and catching 
 only the roughest and swift- 
 est places, until presently he 
 had worked his way along- 
 side and stepped aboard 
 again. His little bundle of 
 sticks did not number ten, 
 and not one was as thick as 
 your wrist, while merely 
 two bits of vine at each end 
 held them together. 
 
 I asked what would 
 have happened had the 
 vine lashings broke. When that was translated 
 to the Leccos, they roared with laughter. That, 
 it was explained to me, was what they were hop- 
 ing for, so that then he would have had to swim. 
 
 THE IvECCO OF THE TWiO 
 RAFT. 
 
OFF ON THE LONG DRIFT 183 
 
 Swim! A fine joke to swim rapids and whirl- 
 pools that looked like sure death or worse mang- 
 ling. But I found later that any one of them 
 could have done it on even worse passages. If 
 they are sure to be caught in a whirlpool, they 
 will dive, and the fury of the rapid itself troubles 
 them not the least. A Lecco once, to avoid a 
 whipping by his rubber boss, threw himself into 
 the river and swam six miles in the worst sec- 
 tion of the river without a thought. A German 
 later attempted to swim the mildest of these, and 
 his broken body was picked up in an eddy three 
 miles below. 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 THE LECCO TRIBE 
 
 THESE Leccos are among the finest Indians, 
 or semi-civilized savages, I have met. 
 They are sturdy and muscular, with a dis- 
 tinctly Malaysian suggestiveness, and very sup- 
 erior to any of the 
 surrounding s a v - 
 age tribes of the in- 
 terior. Yet they 
 have neither relig- 
 ion nor supersti- 
 tion; they have no 
 legend or tradition, 
 and their only his- 
 torical recollection 
 is from the time 
 when quinine bark 
 was the main river 
 commerce instead 
 of rubber — the 
 
 time of the " Great j^^f/^g!'^^^"" "^^ '''''''''' ""^^ ^'''^''' 
 
 184' 
 
THE LEGCO TRIBE 185 
 
 Quina " they call it, — about half a century ago. 
 They are brave and loyal, although not a fight- 
 ing race, and have made but a poor showing 
 against the neighboring tribes. Their life is on 
 the river, chiefly this Rio Mapiri, and they stick 
 close to its banks. Their sole v^ork is transpor- 
 tation with these balsas and callapos up and 
 down the river. 
 
 For months in the year the stream is virtually 
 closed by reason of the rains and the impassable 
 canons. Down stream is simple and finely excit- 
 ing, but against the currents up-stream, portag- 
 ing or hauling the balsas through the canons, 
 where there is often barely a hand-hold on the 
 naked walls of rock, and often vines must be 
 lowered from above, drenched during the day 
 and sleeping on the sand playas at night, is the 
 hardest kind of labor. As had happened while 
 they were trying to reach me on this trip, the 
 food gives out — it is not a game country — and 
 unless they are near enough to the goal to live on 
 nuts and berries, as they did for two days on this 
 occasion, they have to go back, replenish, and 
 start over again, with all the previous labor lost. 
 And there is scarcely a free Lecco among them ; 
 they are always in debt to the rubber barracas, 
 who by the sale and purchase of their debts pas$ 
 
1 86 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 them as veritable chattels. With thriftless, un- 
 thinking good nature, they accept this condition 
 and at the end of each trip will squander their 
 credit-wages on worthless trifles. A Lecco 
 friend of mine once squandered the wages of a 
 whole hard trip up-stream on a woman's straw 
 hat and its mass of pink- ribbon bows that he 
 wore for two days in great pride on the drift 
 down-stream until it was lost overboard in one 
 of the worst rapids. He watched it whirling off 
 in the spray and foam with a childish pleasure 
 and no sense of loss, but rather with the calm 
 complacency of a man who had lost a trifle and 
 could with easy labor earn another. 
 
 The Indians whom I had met before were the 
 Quechuas and the Aymaras, the great tribes of 
 the high plains; heavy-boned, stocky, and pow- 
 erful peoples, who, in feature and color strongly 
 resemble our own Sioux and Apache type. 
 These Leccos, on the contrary, were slender, 
 well-built men, with a direct, soft quickness of 
 movement that revealed the perfect strength that 
 lay behind it. In feature they were absolutely 
 Malay — a perfect reproduction of any of the 
 Malay tribes that fringe the coast of Asia. 
 
 Other rivers have the balsa and the callapo 
 too, and the long rapids through narrow gorges, 
 
THE LEGCO TRIBE 187 
 
 but the Indians of those rivers lie down and 
 clutch for safety when they go through them. 
 Your Lecco goes into the boiling smother of a 
 cataract with a grinning yell of pure joy, and 
 keeps his feet like a Glo'ster skipper in a high 
 gale. 
 
 The balsa of the Leccos is a raft made of the 
 light, corky wood from which it takes its name. 
 Eight-inch logs of this balsa wood are pinned 
 together with palm spikes from the hard, 
 black palm that is also used as arrow-points and 
 for bows. When floating in the water it looks 
 like some unwieldy amphibian that has risen to 
 the surface for a fresh supply of air. It is gen- 
 erally about twenty-five feet long and about four 
 feet wide. The Leccos lash three balsas to- 
 gether, broadside on, by means of stout cross- 
 logs tied with strips of bark or vine, and this re- 
 sult is called a callapo. It is a structure that is 
 capable of carrying some three tons of cargo — 
 that is if handled by Leccos. 
 
 The first thing that impressed me about these 
 Leccos was the distinctness with which they re- 
 presented another race. It was not the mere 
 divergence of tribe; it was more fundamental — 
 it was a racial difference. There was nothing 
 in it to suggest even a remote relation to any of 
 
i88 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 the tribes with whom I had come in contact up 
 to that time, or, for that matter, with any of 
 those that I subsequently met. To begin with, 
 the Leccos looked clean — a condition that one 
 seldom finds in the Quichua or Aymara nations ; 
 although cleanliness is almost an invariable con- 
 dition of all river peoples. Their complexion 
 was of the soft, warm brown of the Hindu or 
 the Filipino, having no suggestion of the dull 
 chocolate of the negro or the weather-beaten 
 copper of the Aymaras or of our own Western 
 Indians. 
 
 Their features again are decidedly Malay- 
 sian — straight high nose with thin nostrils ; fore- 
 head fairly high and well' 
 shaped; finely cut thin lips, 
 and the narrow, though not 
 slanting eyes of the East. 
 The hair is oily jet-black, 
 thick, and grows to a point 
 on the forehead, in the style 
 made known by Aguinaldo, 
 and is kept neatly cut in a 
 straight, bristly pompadour. 
 They do not care for the 
 NAPoi^EON A i.^cco cnm g^udy feather head-dresses 
 
THE LEGCO TRIBE 
 
 189 
 
 /:^^^ 
 
 of their savage neighbors 
 — not even ear-rings — and 
 for head decorations are 
 content with the brilliant 
 bandanna of the trader, 
 twisted and tied in a band 
 about the head in very much 
 the same manner as used by 
 our own Apaches of Ari- 
 zona. A band necklace of Y^^< ^ 
 bright beads, strung and de- ^-^ "^ 
 signed in simple patterns by a i.e:cco typ^. 
 their own women, on threads of wild cotton, is 
 their only ornament. These are almost invari- 
 ably worn by the men only and are tied tightly 
 about the throat. 
 
 Another striking point about the Leccos, one 
 in which they differ from all of the " barbaros," 
 or the savages of the Amazon tributaries, is their 
 muscular development. The barbaro in this 
 respect is very deficient. He is strong almost 
 beyond belief, but it is the strength of sinew and 
 not of muscle. It is like the strength of the 
 monkey, that is not made visible by the ordi- 
 nary signs of muscular development. The bar- 
 baro has no apparent deltoid, no biceps, no tri- 
 
190 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 ceps, none of the finely developed muscles of the 
 leg and thigh that with us make for strength. 
 He is built like an undeveloped boy who has 
 suddenly suffered from too rapid growth. The 
 Leccos, on the contrary, are beautifully de- 
 veloped physically; knotted muscles shift and 
 play evenly under the soft skin and suggest a 
 swift sureness of movement and a strength of 
 endurance that are demanded in their life on the 
 river. 
 
 The likeness of these people to the Malays is 
 still further accented by their costume. They 
 wear rather tight breechs of white tucuyo, a 
 coarse muslin, that taper to the ankle, and above 
 it a short shirt of gaudy red, yellow, or blue, 
 or even sometimes white, though the red is 
 popularly regarded as the most aristocratic. 
 The shirt is cut square with the armholes in the 
 two upper corners. The hole for the head is 
 emblazoned by a border of crude design cut 
 from varied-colored calicos and sewed on. In 
 the course of many days' association with them, 
 I discovered that the little chipa, or bag of 
 native-woven wild cotton, which every Lecco 
 carries with him on any of his river expeditions, 
 is filled with clean clothing. The muddy water 
 
THE LEGCO TRIBE 191 
 
 of the Rio Mapiri and the Rio Kaka — ^which 
 the Mapiri becomes farther down — soils every- 
 thing it touches, and so the Leccos, who are as 
 much in the water as out of it, regularly changed 
 their garments daily, only making an exception 
 when some extra-hard passages would have 
 made it a useless extravagance. 
 
 In my contact with the South American In- 
 dians, whether among the high plains of the 
 Andes or among the forests drained by the trib- 
 utaries of the Amazon, I received rather the im- 
 pression of inert, passive races ; of peoples who 
 were patiently hoping for the return of the 
 legendary days of their fathers, yet who, dimly, 
 in some way felt that the hope was vain. It 
 might poetically be interpreted as a vague con- 
 sciousness of their doom of ultimate extinction. 
 The Lecco is probably doomed to extinction as 
 well, but he is by no means a despondent speci- 
 men. On the contrary, no more cheery, indeed 
 hilarious, outfit can be imagined than that with 
 which we embarked on our callapos at Mapiri. 
 Candor compels me to own that this exuberance 
 of spirits was probably largely alcoholic, for it 
 is one of the few rights to which he clings 
 tenaciously — that of being allowed to keep 
 
192 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 drunk while making a voyage on the river. For 
 the Lecco will not work to any good purpose if 
 kept sober; they feel that they have been de- 
 frauded and cheated of an inalienable right, and 
 at the first convenient opportunity they will 
 avenge the injury by running the callapo on a 
 rock in a rapid, while they themselves will swim 
 through it like otters and make the shore below 
 safe and unrepentant. Unlike all other savages, 
 who become treacherous and turbulent under 
 the influence of liquor, the Lecco becomes even 
 more genial and jovial when in his cups. He is 
 pre-eminently a man of peace. 
 
 From the moment that we shoved out into the 
 stream everything was a huge joke. If one 
 slipped on the submerged logs of the callapo 
 and floundered overboard, the rest hailed it with 
 yells of delight, and they dug their heavy 
 paddles into the water and tried to pull the cal- 
 lapo beyond his reach. The victim would dive 
 and come up in some unexpected place, where 
 the effect of the black pompadour and the beady 
 eyes suddenly popping above the opaque depths 
 of an eddy, followed by a damp, sheepish grin, 
 was irresistibly funny. 
 
 They are perfectly at home in the water, and 
 
THE LEGCO TRIBE 193 
 
 will swim any rapid and the dangerous whirl- 
 pools that are constantly forming below them, 
 without hesitation — places that it would be fatal 
 for a white man to attempt. There is a story of 
 a Lecco who went through the most dangerous 
 of the rapids with his wife and baby and a mule 
 — the mule and baby inclosed in a framework 
 of palm amidships on the balsa, and the wife 
 helping with a paddle at the stern. They made 
 the passage safely, but it was the survival of the 
 mule that excited their admiration. 
 
 Their huts are one-roomed affairs with the 
 floor of beaten clay, upon which, at night, are 
 laid woven grass mats that serve as beds. The 
 walls are of charo — a kind of poor relative of 
 the bamboo — lashed to a slender framework of 
 the same material by split strips of the mora, the 
 typical hut of the tropical frontier. Stout posts 
 sunk at the corners give the strength to support 
 the roof. The huts are about ten by fifteen feet. 
 The steep-pitched roof is thatched with split 
 palm-leaves that render it water-proof even in 
 the heavy tropical thunder-storms. A high 
 broad shelf at one end serves as a second story 
 and a place of storage. In some there is a low 
 shelf of charo along one side that serves as the 
 
194 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 family bed, though these latter are only in the 
 houses of the more ambitious Leccos. All cook- 
 ing is done at one end over an open fire, the 
 smoke escaping as best it may through the inter- 
 stices between the layers of charo. A single 
 door is the only opening. 
 
 Near by is the little platano or plantain 
 patch, and a few yuccas. A few scrawny chick- 
 ens use the house as their headquarters, and are 
 reserved for fiestas. A pot or two, purchased 
 from the traders complete the household equip- 
 ment. Invariably they boil their food, even to 
 the platanos that are so much better roasted. 
 This is in striking contrast to the barbaros of the 
 farther interior, who are without the knowledge 
 of boiling food ; they either eat it raw or roast it 
 slightly. 
 
 The Lecco women are also as distinctly Ma- 
 laysian in appearance as the men. They have 
 fine figures and retain the free gracefulness of 
 carriage of the nude savage, and, up to the time 
 they are sixteen, if not absolutely pretty in fea- 
 ture, are distinctly pleasing. One, however, 
 that I saw in the rubber barraca of Caimalebra, 
 living with a Bolivian refugee murderer, was 
 an absolute beauty by any standards of compari- 
 
THE LEGCO TRIBE 195 
 
 son. They were living happily, and on one 
 trip I enjoyed their hospitality for five days. 
 The single garment of the women is an exag- 
 geration of the Lecco shirt, reaching nearly to 
 the ankles. It is pleasing in its effect, and sets 
 off the graceful beauty of their figures in a way 
 that recalls the simple fashions of the Hawaiian 
 and Polynesian peoples. The women of other 
 tribes are apt to adopt slatternly skirts after 
 their introduction to the frontier civilization. 
 
 The girls are fully developed at fourteen, and 
 they usually mate a year or so later with a Lecco 
 boy of about their own age. The boy at that 
 time is a full-fledged balsero and able to hold his 
 own in the struggle with the river — their only 
 test of arrival at man's estate. 
 
 Sometimes a mission priest comes down the 
 river, and then, if the family has prospered, 
 there will be a grand fiesta and a marriage will 
 be performed according to the rites of the 
 Church. This will cost forty bolivians — about 
 eighteen dollars — for the priest's fee, and con- 
 siderably more for the drunken orgy that fol- 
 lows. To have been married according to the 
 ceremonies of the Church is a great distinction, 
 and also a rare one. 
 
1196 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Of any form or ceremonial that the Leccos 
 may have had at one time, there is not a trace left. 
 All vestiges of their own original superstitions 
 have long disappeared. Nominally they are 
 Catholics, and are claimed as such by the 
 padres, but in reality they are without religion 
 or belief. The rites of baptism and marriage 
 seem to appeal to them, but apparently more on 
 the ground of the superior dignity that is lent to 
 the following fiesta. Baptism is performed by 
 any trader who happens to be passing on the 
 river, and to their complete satisfaction, while 
 his crew is impressed as godfathers. I was in- 
 vited to perform it once, but declined^ to their 
 evident disappointment. 
 
 There are no ceremonies attending the death 
 and burial of a Lecco. During the last illness 
 the neighbors may drop in on a visit of sym- 
 pathy, and canassa will be handed around. 
 When death occurs, one member of the family, 
 the husband, son, or son-in-law, wraps the body 
 in a piece of tucuyo, and carries it on his shoul- 
 der to a secluded place in the jungle, and there 
 buries it. The slight mound above the grave is 
 its only mark, and that disappears after the lapse 
 of a season or two. Apparently there is no idea 
 
THE LEGCO TRIBE (197 
 
 of spirits haunting these places, for the Leccos 
 pass them without hesitation after nightfall — 
 something that the Cholos do not care or are 
 afraid to do. 
 
 The Lecco families are small. Two or, at the 
 most, three babies are the rule, and it is not at all 
 uncommon to find a childless family. Canassa 
 and the frequent drunken fiestas that are their 
 only relaxation seem to be the means by which 
 they are accomplishing the suicide of their race. 
 Girl babies are preferred to boys; for when a 
 daughter marries, her husband will eventually 
 have to support her parents. But with a son it 
 is recognized that his duty is to his wife and her 
 people. The women are faithful to their men, 
 if their men care for them and guard them; but 
 if the men become careless or apparently indiff- 
 erent, the women regard it as a tacit relinquish- 
 ing of the rights of fidelity, and establish such 
 casual relations as suit them. 
 
 With rare exceptions the men are, in effect, in 
 a state of slavery. The debt system prevails, 
 and they are easy victims. The trader spreads 
 his gaudy stock of trade stuffs before the Lecco, 
 and the Lecco buys recklessly whatever attracts 
 him at the moment. The trader gives him full 
 
198 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 swing at first, and the Lecco gets himself heavily 
 in debt. And that debt is allowed to the exact 
 extent of each particular Lecco's value as a bal- 
 sero or rubber-picker. A well-to-do balsero has 
 a debt of two thousand bolivians; poorer ones 
 less. And the Leccos are valued as slaves in the 
 terms of the debt. The Lecco never gets free 
 from his debt. 
 
 Of his race the Lecco has no knowledge. He 
 has no written language — not even primitive 
 hieroglyphs or crude pictures. He is even 
 without a primitive instrument for making 
 music. To all questions about themselves, as to 
 where their fathers lived before them, or as to 
 where their families came from even before that, 
 or to the flattering questions as to the time when 
 the Leccos " were a great people," they have but 
 one date to give. That is the " time of the Great 
 Quina," when the bark of the quinine was worth 
 a dollar and ten cents a pound, gold, on the 
 river. This is their only date, and it was about 
 sixty or seventy years ago. 
 
 They rigidly retain their own dialect, which 
 they call the Riki-Riki, although they have ac- 
 quired a Spanish patois in their dealing with the 
 traders on the river. The Riki-Riki is strongly 
 
THE LEGCO TRIBE 199 
 
 labial, though with many guttural sounds, and, 
 like most barbaric tongues, is impossible to re- 
 produce with our alphabet. The counting re- 
 duplicates systematically and on the basis of five, 
 instead of ten as in our system. 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 
 DRIFTING DOWN THE RIO MAPIRI 
 
 THAT night we made camp on a sand bar 
 in one of the more open reaches of water 
 and close to the river's edge. With their 
 short machetes the Leccos cut some canes, un- 
 lashed our tentage from the platforms, and 
 rigged a rough shelter. In the balmy air of the 
 sunset there was no indication that it was needed, 
 but during this season a tropical rain comes up 
 with the suddenness of a breeze, and pitching a 
 tent in a driving downpour in the darkness of 
 perdition is no light pleasure. For themselves, 
 the Leccos simply threw a matting of woven 
 palm-leaves on the sand and their camp was 
 made. The bank was lined with a fringe of 
 driftwood, and Spanish cedar and mahogany 
 made admirable fuel, and gave one at the same 
 time a sense of wanton, extravagant luxury that 
 the humbler cooking fires of our North never 
 
 200 
 
DRIFTING DOWN RIO MAPIRI 201 
 
 obtain. Presently little fires crackled into life 
 along the playa while gathering around each 
 were groups of Leccos in their loose, flapping, 
 square shirts, or else stripped to the waist in the 
 hot evening air, intent on the small pots of boil- 
 ing rice, platanos, and chalona. Quickly the 
 velvet darkness of the tropics fell, and the high 
 lights flickered on naked skins ; slowly the moon 
 rose above the purple hills of the background, 
 transforming the muddy surface of the swirling 
 river into a shimmer of molten silver. 
 
 The smooth, sandy playa softened in the mel- 
 low light, while, in the foreground, the camp- 
 fires threw in strong relief the easy play of naked 
 muscles in the shifting groups of savage figures ; 
 beyond were other figures silhouetted against the 
 night or merged with the bulk of the callapos, 
 gently swaying at the river's edge, to the low 
 roar of the current. The subdued chatter of the 
 Leccos, the crackling of the driftwood flames, 
 the occasional cry of some morose tropical bird 
 of the night, and once in a while the far-off, 
 snarling howl of a jaguar in the hills beyond 
 blended like the carefully studied tones of some 
 painting, and the peace that passeth the under- 
 standing of cities descended. 
 
202 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 The very pleasing moon also added to the en- 
 thusiasm of the sand fleas and sand-hoppers; 
 diabolical out of all proportion to their physical 
 capacity and by the aid of the fourth dimension 
 triumphing over my netting, they made of sleep 
 a periodic and exhausting labor. 
 
 I looked out and envied the impervious Lec- 
 cos; half naked to the night they sprawled on 
 their patches of palm matting and only awak- 
 ened in response to an itching thirst and then 
 prowled round to locate the extra ration. Some- 
 where back in the hills were the savages, the 
 Chunchos and the Yungus, but they rarely come 
 down to this river. It is too populous, accord- 
 ing to their standards, and precautions against 
 them are rarely needed. Farther on, when we 
 got into the Rio Kaka and the Rio Beni, some 
 care was essential; and it was necessary to camp 
 on the largest sand bars and close to the water's 
 edge, where the camp could not be rushed in a 
 sudden dash from the jungle. 
 
 The next morning, with the first faint trickle 
 of dawn along the rim of purple hills, the camp 
 was astir. A single fire was stirred into activity, 
 and in the dim, gray light there was a hasty cup 
 of tea and a raw platano, and again we waded 
 
DRIFTING DOWN RIO MAPIRI 203 
 
 aboard the callapo and swung out into the cur- 
 rent. The cool gray-green of the early morn- 
 ing had faded to a delicate sapphire; the purple 
 hills loomed nearer in the soft haze; above them 
 shimmering waves of amethyst overspread half 
 the skies. A faint glow as of soft coral flickered 
 over the crests of a stray cloud, that, close after, 
 flushed with the bolder brilliancy of the ruby 
 and the topaz. There was no pause; one color 
 after another, exquisite in its gorgeousness or 
 delicacy, as though from the slowly opening 
 door of a prismatic furnace — crimson, violet, 
 deep-sea blues, and old-gold — shifted and coiled 
 
 w^ SEEM]eD TO Movn WITH intoi^erabi^e; si,owne;s3, 
 
204 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 above the purple hills. A thread of silver 
 tipped their crests and then, at their center, there 
 was for an instant the gleam of molten gold, 
 and a second more above the low morning mist 
 there floated the glowing mass of the sun. The 
 day had begun. 
 
 For hours we drifted down the swift current. 
 Now and then a snake or perhaps an otter glided 
 silently into the eddies as we drifted by. We 
 seemed to move with intolerable slowness and 
 yet when we watched the jungle on each side 
 slipping by, we could see the speed — six, eight, 
 and sometimes ten miles an hour. The sun rose 
 higher; it beat down on the unsheltered callapo 
 like the hot blast from a furnace; the animal 
 sounds in the forests ceased; the faint morning 
 airs died away, and nothing broke the stillness 
 but the occasional shrill flocks of parrots. The 
 muddy surface of the river turned to a heated 
 brazen glare, and the long breakfastless hours 
 of the forenoon crawled past. 
 
 Presently as we swung around a bend there 
 appeared a tiny cane-walled hut surrounded by 
 a few platano and yucca trees. Splashing in 
 the river were naked little babies, and as our 
 Leccos set up a shout a woman trotted down to 
 
DRIFTING DOWN RIO MAPIRI 205 
 
 the bank and waved back. We paddled out of 
 the current and made a landing, while the young 
 Lecco who had run the river on the bundle of 
 sticks took on a sack of clean clothes. 
 
 The Leccos are very particular in these mat- 
 ters; each morning from out their home-woven 
 cotton sacks they would don clean trousers and, 
 shirt, and at every opportunity, going up or 
 down the river, they would stop and turn over 
 to the Lecco wife the soiled ones and take aboard 
 a clean supply. When a trip is too long for a 
 complete outfit, they would get busy at each 
 midday breakfast and wash their own. The 
 sack they carried would hold about as much as 
 a small keg, and it was always crowded to its 
 capacity with their queer, square shirts and tight 
 ankled trousers. Their only other baggage was 
 a plate, a spoon, and a tiny kettle for rice. 
 Clean clothes every day is a peculiar hobby for 
 a primitive tribe. 
 
 This Lecco woman, or, rather, girl, who 
 trotted dow^n to the water's edge was about six- 
 teen, wore only a single long garment, a chula, 
 that came to above the ankles and had no sleeves. 
 Some forest flower was in her black hair, and 
 she was a beauty, not by any of the savage stand- 
 
2o6 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 ards alone or by the easy imagination that gives 
 some youthful savages a certain attractiveness 
 as a matter of pure contrast, but she was beauti^ 
 ful by any of those standards that obtain in our 
 home countries. Along with her regular fea- 
 tures, delicate nostrils, soft eyes, and regular, 
 curving lips, with a soft, light-coppery, tawny 
 complexion, so soft and light that the color came 
 and went in her cheeks like a fresh-blown de- 
 butante, she had the carriage of a queen, though 
 that was nothing to a race of women who carry 
 burdens on their heads from babyhood and who 
 can swim like otters. I saw later very many 
 Lecco women, and while all were superior in 
 type to those of the neighboring tribes, there 
 was but one that could compare with the fea- 
 tures of this first Lecco girl and the two might 
 have been sisters, so close was the type of their 
 beauty. 
 
 More Lecco homes appeared, and at each 
 some one of the crew received his new stock of 
 clean clothes and packed his pouch with them. 
 Then Guanai appeared, or rather we stopped 
 under the river bank close by, for the straggling 
 collection of huts lies some distance back from 
 the river. A few rubber-traders, half-breeds, 
 
DRIFTING DOWN RIO MAPIRI 207 
 
 and Cholos live here, and control the Leccos. 
 Most of them, when I was there, were refugees 
 from the other side of the Andes, and here are 
 beyond the reach of the Bolivian authorities. 
 Once in a while some one of them is caught and 
 taken out in chains by the soldiers sent in for the 
 special purpose, but as a rule that followed only 
 as the result of internecine difficulty and result- 
 ing treachery. 
 
 The head man came down to the bank to meet 
 us with his neck stiff and awkward in some 
 home-made bandage. He was still half-drunk, 
 but very hospitable. The night before, it seems, 
 there had been a fight, and when the candles 
 were stamped out in the little hut it became very 
 confusing, he explained, hence the stab in the 
 neck and somewhere a couple of men were nurs- 
 ing bullet-holes. We handed over the few let- 
 ters from the Cholo at Mapiri, and he was eager 
 to get news of La Paz and the outside world. 
 For years he had lived here, a refugee from the 
 law, and unmolested; some day he will meet 
 with as sudden a death as he had often bestowed, 
 and another head man will fill his uncertain 
 shoes. A torn straw hat, cotton shirt, and Lecco 
 trousers were his sole costume, and he hunts 
 
2o8 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 barefoot and runs the river as readily as any of 
 the Lecco tribesmen. 
 
 Below Guanai the Rio Mapirl is reinforced 
 by the Rio Coroico and the Rio Tipuani, clear, 
 cold streams. All along little brooks and moun- 
 tain torrents have also been adding to the 
 volumes of our river, so that it had grown to a 
 goodly size. Below this settlement of Guanai 
 were the worst and most dangerous passages. 
 Any of the rapids are bad, but they are less to be 
 feared than the great whirlpools that form be- 
 low each one of them. It is these remolinos that 
 are more likely to catch the rafts and tear them 
 apart. The rough water of the rapid can be 
 watched, and the callapo can be kept head on 
 in the current, but below there are no means of 
 judging when a whirling vortex will form that 
 will drag the callapo under and perhaps later 
 throw it out farther down in scattered frag- 
 ments. 
 
 For fifty miles the hills crowded in, and there 
 were only rarely any open, slower reaches of 
 river. Huge masses of rock had broken from 
 above and hurled themselves into the gorges, 
 where the current was choked in masses of high- 
 flung spray. The Leccos know that on one cer- 
 
DRIFTING DOWN RIO MAPIRI 209 
 
 BUT IT IS THOSS PARTS OF TH^ RIVER THAT THB L^CCOS :PAIRI.Y 
 I,OVE. 
 
 tain side of these rocks there was disaster and 
 with their heavy paddles they pried the raft in 
 the proper currents. At first the water was 
 smooth — smoother than in the broader reaches 
 — but the banks moved past more swiftly, and 
 from out of the water itself came a little rattling, 
 crackling sound — the sound of boulders on the 
 
2IO ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 river-bed crashing together as they were swept 
 down-stream. Then the surface of the river 
 broke up in snapping little ripples, while under 
 our feet there was the feel of the raft straining 
 in the eddying thrust of the current. But it is 
 these parts of the river that the Leccos fairly 
 love; their eyes sparkled and they laughed and 
 chattered with excitement. 
 
 Ahead there was a roaring smother of foam, 
 which curled back in a crested wave; the 
 paddles, with the callapo snouts as a fulcrum, 
 swung the course to the right, and a second later 
 there came a rush and a crash as a mass of boil- 
 ing water climbed over the starboard cargo and 
 we careened until the crew on the lower side 
 were breast-deep in the smother. It was only 
 for a second, and the raft drifted out among the 
 eddying whirlpools that formed below. One, a 
 fairly small one, caught us at the stern, and we 
 were drawn under as if caught by a submarine 
 claw; the waters rose to the breasts of the stern 
 crew, while they, braced against their paddles, 
 grinned back at us cheerfully. Then the vor- 
 tex broke and very slowly the cargo rose 
 dripping into view. 
 
 Every rapid, bend, or cataract in this part has 
 
DRIFTING DOWN RIO MAPIRI 211 
 
 its name, an honor denied the 
 distances up the Mapiri of the 
 day before. We passed the 
 Conseli, and entered Kirkana 
 — the spelling is phonetic — 
 a magnified mountain brook 
 that boiled through the tor- 
 tuous passages for miles. 
 There was not a mile that did 
 not have its channel choked 
 with rock, through 
 which we shot in a 
 smother of foam like 
 a South Sea Islander 
 on his surf-boardJ 
 Then came a canon, 
 with walls of gray 
 rock on which were 
 stains o r symbols 
 that in a rough way a rubber picker. 
 
 suggested some of the old Inca forms, to which 
 the Leccos have given the name of " Devil- 
 Painted " rapids. Beyond lie the rapids of the 
 " Bad Waters," and then the Ysipuri Rapids, 
 where there was a large rubber barraca in charge 
 of an English superintendent. 
 
212 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 The night's camp was at Ysipuri, a rubber 
 barraca that was complaining bitterly at the 
 time that it was overstocked with marmalade 
 and snakes. If you have never lived on mar- 
 malade for six months hand-running when 
 transportation is practically cut off — and a 
 cheap, tin-can marmalade made mainly for the 
 calloused tongues of a half-breed trade at that — ' 
 you do not know what real desolation in a 
 rubber jungle is. Also it was the hatching sea- 
 son for snakes and there was never a day, even 
 scarcely an hour, when a few feet or less of snake 
 was not being untangled from the cane walled 
 thatch of the house. Two were fished out of the 
 kettles in the cook-shack as the Lecco lady-cook 
 started to prepare the midday breakfast and even 
 the ordinary security of a hammock was no 
 guarantee against them. Rarely were they big, 
 some were mere babies and others but adolescent 
 boas ; one of eight feet in length was killed, but 
 this was an exception, for the general run were 
 juveniles of from a few inches to two or three 
 feet. Also eight feet was not a big snake, not in 
 a country where you can hear tales of thirty and 
 forty foot reptiles. 
 
 The chief in this barraca was a white man ; he 
 
DRIFTING DOWN RIO MAPIRI 213 
 
 had a well kept place with its out-buildings and 
 little Indian quarters laid out with some system. 
 There was sweet corn, real sweet corn, and not 
 the choclo of the Aymara, an unripe ear of com- 
 mon field corn; melons, yuccas, bananas, and the 
 best attempt at a garden that could be made in 
 a tropical jungle. Also, before dinner that 
 evening a Lecco boy came in with a log of wood 
 which he dumped in the cook house; with a 
 machete he chopped it up — for firewood as I 
 thought. Presently, at dinner there was a most 
 delicious vegetable, hot and looking like cold- 
 slaw or sourkrout. It was my old friend the log 
 of wood, the bud of the cabbage palm chopped 
 by a rubber picker somewhere out in the forest. 
 
CHAPTER XV 
 
 SHOOTING THE RATAMA 
 
 AT daybreak we left the Ysipuri barraca 
 and emptying our rifles in salute to the 
 Englishman's Winchester, we started on 
 for the next rapids, the greatest rapids on the 
 river — the Ratama. 
 
 Two miles above the Ratama the walls of the 
 gorge began to close in steep cliffs. Here and 
 there shrubs clung on little niches, while from 
 the high edges long vines hung down and were 
 whipped taut in the swift, glassy current below. 
 The air began to cool in the deep shadows, and 
 there was a damp chill in it like the breath from 
 a cavern. The Leccos were not chattering now, 
 for this place may on any trip prove to be seri- 
 ous, and the silence of the smooth drifting was 
 only broken by an occasional kingfisher, which 
 clattered by like a flying watchman's rattle. 
 Slowly a dull roaring, echoing from the dis- 
 214 
 
SHOOTING THE RAT AM A 215 
 
 tance, steadily obtruded itself; the current was 
 still glassy, but as it moved it snapped against 
 the walls of the canon in angry ripples. Every 
 Lecco in the crew was poised, with his paddle, 
 as tense as a strung bow. Now we knew who 
 was the captain of the crew. It was the forward 
 Lecco on the right; he was the only one who 
 had anything to say. It was no childish joking 
 now; there were commands. Occasionally he 
 grunted his order, and the paddles dipped as 
 they held the raft true, bow on, in the middle of 
 the current. With a grand sweep we swung 
 round a bend between the walls of rock and 
 there far ahead the white waves of the Ratama 
 were snapping like great fangs against the dusk 
 of the canon, while above them hung a heavy 
 mist that blurred the outlines of the gorge be- 
 yond. 
 
 The callapo increased its speed; the Ratama 
 seemed to be springing toward us with each 
 leaping wave ; the roaring water deepened, and 
 the voices were drowned. The Lecco captain 
 dipped his paddle, and the rest followed the 
 signal, and gently the callapo was held true, 
 with the three upturned snouts headed straight 
 for the foaming center. The cliffs had closed 
 
2i6 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 in like the walls of a corridor, and they flew 
 past like the flickering film of a moving-pic- 
 ture; the spray from the trailing vines was 
 whipped in our faces and floated upward to 
 form rainbows in the slanting sunlight high 
 overhead. Then for a second we seemed to 
 pause on the edge of a long slide of polished 
 water, the edge of the cataract. 
 
 The Leccos crouched for the shock, and we 
 could fairly feel their toes gripping the sub- 
 merged callapo logs, while their paddles were 
 poised above their heads. Then came the brief 
 coast down the smooth water and the plunge 
 into the great wave that loomed above our 
 heads, only to break with a drenching roar 
 over us and the lashed freight. The Leccos 
 dropped on their knees, gripping a hold as best 
 they might; their eyes glittered with excitement, 
 and I could see their wide-open mouths in a yell 
 of wild joy, though every sound was drowned 
 in the crash and roar of waters. The paddles 
 swung in powerful circles, and at each dip the 
 paddlers went out of sight, head and shoulders 
 in the smother of foam. 
 
 The water was above my waist, and some- 
 where below the surface I was hanging on to 
 
Running the Rapids of tiie Ratama 
 
 PAGE 2 I 7 
 
SHOOTING THE RATAMA 217 
 
 the cargo lashings, with my feet braced against 
 the logs. Under the boiling smother of foam 
 I could feel the callapo writhe and twist in the 
 strain; a keg broke loose, and a Lecco lost his 
 paddle in recovering it. His paddle was of no 
 consequence, for he could whittle another, and 
 he fondly believed the keg held the beloved 
 alcohol — canassa — though he was wrong, for it 
 held nothing but pickled beef, and worthless, as 
 I later found. 
 
 Sometimes a Lecco's shoulder would rise 
 above the boiling smother, with the brown 
 muscles playing in hard knots; sometimes we 
 would slew side on to the current, and no power 
 could hold us straight until a bursting wave 
 would throw us back; sometimes for an instant 
 the dripping snouts of the callapo would be 
 flung high in the air and fall back with a crash 
 that made itself heard above the roar, and the 
 raft would quiver and strain with the impact. 
 One saw nothing; we might have been standing 
 still. There was nothing but the lashing sting 
 of the whirling spray and the thunder of the 
 cataract. Then, in an instant, the roar and the 
 tumult were behind, the waves calmed, and the 
 callapo shot out into the calmer waters below, 
 
2i8 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 where the whirlpools and eddies shifted and 
 coiled. 
 
 Vortices into which one might lower a barrel 
 without wetting it whirled lazily past within 
 paddle-reach, and sometimes one would sud- 
 denly form ahead and the Leccos would watch 
 them intently as to their possible direction, and 
 then paddle to shift our course. These they can 
 generally avoid. It is when one forms or sud- 
 denly comes up from underneath that there is 
 danger. A few did catch us this way and the 
 Leccos would stand with braced feet, reading by 
 the straining logs the possible strength of the 
 vortex, and the callapo would grind and slowly 
 sink, until by sheer mass it broke the force of the 
 whirl. Often we would go down by the stern 
 until the after Leccos kept only their heads 
 above water, and even we, farther forward, 
 would be submerged up to our shoulders. 
 There was nothing to do but wait until the vor- 
 tex broke of itself. 
 
 In the Ratama the roar and excitement 
 drowned any emotion, but this was slowly wait- 
 ing in uncertainty and speculating on how far 
 one could really swim before being drawn un- 
 der like a chip. Not far, that was certain, and 
 
SHOOTING THE RATAMA 219 
 
 the Leccos watched this shifting, coiling pas- 
 sage in a silent gravity that they had shown no- 
 where else on the river. It is the breaking up 
 of the logs and cargo that make the danger, at 
 least to the Lecco — greater than the power of 
 the river itself — and a white man would have 
 no chance. 
 
 From the Ratama the river and the country 
 back of it opened out, and the last of the eastern 
 Andean foot-hills were almost passed. A few 
 more rapids were left — the Nube, the Inca- 
 guarra, the Beyo, and the Bala — but after the 
 Ratama they dwindled to harmless riffles. The 
 Beyo Canons resound with a deafening roar, but 
 it is from the thousands of macaws that have 
 their nests in the soft sandstone cliffs, and it is 
 their clatter that carries for miles in the soft 
 evening airs. 
 
 Presently the chief of the Lecco crew chat- 
 tered with the others. They argued each ac- 
 cording to his recollection, for down somewhere 
 on this stretch of the river — it was the River 
 Kaka now since being joined by the River Tip- 
 uani and the Coroico River, mountain torrents 
 both — there was an old camp that was our ob- 
 jective. The jungle had long since wiped out 
 
220 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 every trace and there was nothing to depend 
 upon but the memory of the Leccos. As a mat- 
 ter of fact, there probably is nothing that could 
 be more reliable; it is the one thing they know, 
 is this river, and every turn, every eddy, every 
 tree or drooping vine along the banks is marked 
 down in their primitive minds with the vivid- 
 ness of painted signs. The callapos strung out 
 each in the wake of the other drifting around a 
 long turn of smooth, swift water. The chief 
 grunted, the crew clattered and grunted back in 
 obvious affirmation. The paddles dipped, and 
 from the following callapos came a yell as they, 
 too, began to splash and pry their way out of the 
 current. One after the other they swung round 
 and bumped into shallow water on the heavy 
 gravel of a playa ; beyond rose a steep bank over- 
 grown with masses of creeper and jungle. 
 
 The Leccos chopped a way in with their 
 machetes, and with a grunt a Lecco announced 
 a find. There was a tent peg, a broken kettle, a 
 broken bottle neck, and a bit of rope. It was 
 the proof of the site of the previous camp in its 
 exact location. Five minutes later the lashings 
 were off the freight and a splashing line of In- 
 dians and Cholos were bringing the freight 
 
SHOOTING THE RATAMA 221 
 
 ashore. Here was to be established the per- 
 manent camp ; the long journey from the coast 
 had reached its goal. 
 
 The Leccos and the Cholo workmen were still 
 splashing through the muddy shallows from the 
 grounded callapos packing the freight for the 
 camp when Agamemnon announced himself as 
 cook. Before this moment he had idly oc- 
 cupied himself as valet, butler, laundress — at 
 least since leaving La Paz — faithful adviser, 
 major domo, village gossip, and occasionally 
 the village drunkard. And now when he an- 
 nounced himself as cook no husk of humility 
 could conceal the fact that he regarded all other 
 cook possibilities in that camp on the Rio Kaka 
 with a scornful contempt. 
 
 Later it developed that at this particular time 
 his sole knowledge of cooking was confined to 
 an ability to make guava jelly, an accomplish- 
 ment which, in view of the fact that we were 
 somewhere around five hundred miles by trail 
 and raft from civilization, was of no service at 
 the moment. 
 
 The difficulty over the cook situation had 
 arisen suddenly in the first hour of making 
 camp. Back in Mapiri there was a certain 
 
222 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 fat little Cholo who had sewed a strip of 
 red flannel down his trouser legs in sign of 
 the fact that under some circumstances he 
 was the Mapiri police force; what these cir- 
 cumstances might be never developed for dur- 
 ing our long wait he was busy at nothing 
 more official than taking care of the sugar-cane 
 distillery that belonged to the intendente. Be- 
 fore that, rumor had it, he had taught school in 
 Guanai down the river with a row of empty 
 canassa bottles by means of which he illustrated 
 addition and subtraction. This was as far as 
 the school went; with that course completed, it 
 issued its diploma. This little Cholo urged 
 himself as cook and, as we needed a cook, he 
 was added. As it turned out he was probably 
 the only man in Bolivia who could not cook, or 
 at any rate the only one who had never passed 
 the stage of being able to boil water. 
 
 When the callapos swung in to the playa and 
 grounded on the shallow beach the cook started 
 to get his first meal. The water was brought 
 to a boil successfully in a large kettle between 
 two logs. Presently it began to exude half- 
 cooked rice and cheerfully the fat Cholo added 
 another kettle to hold the overflow. Presently, 
 
SHOOTING THE RATAMA 223 
 
 also, both kettles began to exude half-cooked 
 rice and two more kettles were added to the 
 logs. Once again the pots seethed and frothed 
 and again came forth the overflow of half- 
 cooked rice, still swelling, from four intermin- 
 able geysers. 
 
 Dully the Cholo beat at it with an iron spoon 
 and the Leccos grinned at him as they filled 
 their little pots with the overflow. Heaven 
 alone knows how much rice the cook started 
 with, but in the end half the fire was drowned 
 out, every Lecco had his little pot of half rgw 
 rice, a row of big jungle leaves had each their 
 little mound of rice alongside the fire log, and 
 the hot tropic air was drifting sluggishly with 
 the odor of burnt rice. And every pot and 
 kettle in camp held remnants of the salvage. 
 Therefore, it was that Agamemnon became 
 cook. 
 
CHAPTER XVI 
 
 OPENING UP THE JUNGLE 
 
 AMONG the Cholo workmen it developed 
 that each preferred to cook for himself 
 with his own little pot and over his own 
 individual fire. It was too great a waste of 
 time and energy to have eighteen men building 
 eighteen fires three times a day in order to cook 
 their fifty-four meals. So a compromise was ef- 
 fected. The original Cholo cook — who was 
 good for nothing^ — kept up one long fire on 
 which the row of pots simmered. After each 
 meal enough would be issued to each pot owner 
 for the next meal. In the early morning the 
 general day's rations were issued. The Cholos 
 wrapped them in smudgy bandanas and laid 
 them away beneath their bunks — their bunk 
 shack of cane, charo, being the first thing at- 
 tended to — and then traded back and forth ac- 
 cording to fancy, a little rice for a gristly shin 
 
 224 
 
OPENING UP THE JUNGLE 225 
 
 bone of chalona, or some chancaca for a bit of 
 coffee or chuiio. Coca formed a regular part 
 of the ration and was regularly used by all the 
 workmen. 
 
 Agamemnon as a cook developed famously. 
 As to results one could never properly place the 
 blame upon him. With the exact and reten- 
 tive memory of the utterly illiterate he followed 
 directions with absolute fidelity. He was of the 
 same family as that famous cook who, after hav- 
 ing been instructed by the missus in cake-mak- 
 ing, invariably threw away the first two eggs be- 
 cause in the original effort the first two had 
 proved to be undesirable citizens. Agamemnon 
 was of this order, yet he never failed to throw in 
 all the frills of table service he could think of. 
 This came from his days of stewarding on the 
 Pacific coasters. 
 
 Every morning he appeared with a box lid 
 for a tray set forth in fresh green jungle leaves 
 and on it a species of muffin that he had de- 
 veloped or the boiled green platanos that took 
 the place of bread, a tin can of jam, or some 
 turtle eggs if we had been lucky in a trade with 
 some passing batalon of Leccos. Coffee he 
 served with a flourish and from his camp fire 
 
226 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 below the bank on which our tent was pitched 
 he would bring up a bucket of hot water with 
 which he could keep a continual service of clean 
 camp plates. 
 
 In the intervals at meals he stood back and 
 fanned off the wild bees that flocked to the jam 
 and condensed milk tins. Two little holes 
 pricked in the milk tins guarded them, but with 
 the jam it was different; often a half tin of jam 
 had to be thrown away, the contents solid with 
 reckless, greedy bee suicides. They would light 
 on the jam while it was on the way to your lips 
 or stow away on the under side of the jammed 
 muffin, compelling the utmost vigilance on the 
 penalty of a diet of raw bees. With all the reck- 
 less handling they received, not one of them 
 stung. 
 
 It was the ant that was the Irritable, hot- 
 weaponed party who went out a-jousting from 
 the sheer lust of battle. They were infinite in 
 variety from the sluggish white-ant that left the 
 table a hollow shell of sawdust on up to the leaf- 
 cutters and army ants to whom nothing was so 
 precious as the straight line in which they were 
 going. But the worst, the most vicious and ac- 
 cursed was the large black variety one of whom 
 
OPENING UP THE JUNGLE 227 
 
 made a murderous attack upon me in the dark- 
 ness. 
 
 He IS nearly an inch in length. To the Lec- 
 cos he is known as buno-isti and they also assert 
 that he lives in very small communities in holes 
 in the ground, not building the ordinary nests. 
 Agamemnon had been stung and had promptly, 
 darkey fashion, tied a rag around his head and 
 stayed in his tent all night groaning. A Cholo 
 boy was stung and he too tied a rag around his 
 head and groaned throughout the night. It 
 seemed absurd for a mere sting to have that ef- 
 fect and I looked upon them with a proper 
 scorn. I have been stung by hornets and scor- 
 pions and the latter seemed to me, at the time, 
 as the ultimate of all stinging sensations. I was 
 wrong. 
 
 For some reason these buno-istis seemed to 
 have a love for passing themselves in review up 
 the guy rope, along the ridge pole, and down 
 the other guy rope of the tent. By observing I 
 noticed that no sooner did the buno-isti reach 
 the bottom of the guy rope than he started back 
 to the front guy and began another tour. One 
 evening I stepped out in the darkness, my foot 
 caught on a root and I stumbled ; I clutched for 
 
228 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 the guy rope to save myself and the instant my 
 hand touched the forefinger connected with a 
 high voltage current that gave all the senations 
 of a red-hot sausage grinder. I had caught a 
 buno-isti on his way up the guy rope. 
 
 A delayed lantern revealed a crippled buno- 
 isti and a finger with an almost invisible sting 
 on the first joint. There was no swelling nor 
 did any follow at any time. Yet the pain was 
 intense; I could feel it spreading from the finger 
 to the hand and then, slowly with an acute tor- 
 ture that brought no relieving numbness up to 
 the shoulder. There it halted. But for hours, 
 as the camp watch showed, there was no sleep 
 possible, not until the exhaustion from pain 
 paved the way. For three days the effects 
 lingered in the form of a bruised sensitiveness 
 that made that arm all but useless. A scorpion 
 sting is a gentle tickle compared with the buno- 
 isti. 
 
 Slowly the camp grew. A patch of jungle 
 was cleared on the high bank above the river be- 
 yond the reach of any sudden freshet. In the 
 early days of the camp one of these freshets de- 
 scended from the Andean foot-hills and before 
 the last of the outfit had been carried to the high 
 
OPENING UP THE JUNGLE 229 
 
 bank the Cholos were struggling in a current up 
 to their belts or portaging by the aid of poles 
 held out to steady them. Where the first hasty 
 camp had been was a torrent of muddy waters 
 and a tiny island cut ofif from us by a creek torn 
 in the bank by the flooding river. The water 
 rose five inches a minute for about eight feet 
 and then slowly went back during the night a 
 few inches. 
 
 For something like eleven miles down this 
 river there was placer gold. Wherever a sand- 
 bar or a sand bank showed it was of black, gold- 
 bearing sand. Anywhere you washed you got a 
 trace or color in the pan and sometimes thirty 
 or forty bright flecks of gold glittering against 
 the rusty iron bottom. But with that current, 
 the uncertain rise of freshets, the distance from 
 civilization and main supplies, only an Indian 
 could wash out dirt and make a living at it. The 
 plan was to prospect the placer area extensively 
 and establish a basis for the permanent working 
 camp that was to follow. The gold was there, 
 but how deep to bed rock or hard pan, whether 
 it were best to work by dredge or shaft or open 
 workings, these were the questions that had 
 arisen back in the world of civilization and were 
 
230 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 solved on the basis of the results of this first 
 camp. 
 
 From the bank at the water's edge there 
 stretched back a mass of matted jungle, creepers, 
 vines, and underbrush and above, a mass of vines 
 that tangled the treetops in great patches of 
 aerial islands. Paths had to be cut, some kind 
 of a working map made, the natural difficulties 
 and conditions set forth, and the beginnings of 
 the permanent camp put in form. 
 
 The eighteen men were swallowed up in the 
 jungle. The clearing was scarcely made and 
 burned before the jungle was again closing in 
 and rising from the ground like sown dragon's 
 teeth. And slowly progress was made and up 
 and down the river the camp became known and 
 voyaging rubber traders and crews stopped as at 
 a port of call. 
 
 One expedition passed the midday breakfast 
 with us. Its head was an Englishman, a wiry, 
 frontier hardened man who was on a punitive 
 expedition at the head of his men, rubber pick- 
 ers, balseros, and headquarters men from his 
 barraca. Somewhere in the hundreds of thou- 
 sands of acres that represented the rubber 
 domain of which he was chief there was a bound- 
 
OPENING UP THE JUNGLE 231 
 
 ary dispute. His trees had been raided and 
 here, like a feudal baron — or rather like a 
 salaried feudal baron, the fief of a plush- 
 cushioned, rocking chair lord of a board of di- 
 rectors the half of seven seas away — he was at 
 the head of his two callapos and fourteen Win- 
 chesters and a scattering of twenty bore, miser- 
 able trade-guns with their trade powder in 
 gaudy red tins and a month's rations for the 
 expedition. 
 
 Again, a couple of Englishmen who had 
 drifted down to Rurrenabaque, the last settle- 
 ment of the frontier from this side of the con- 
 tinent, stopped as they were slowly poling up 
 the river with a couple of new dugouts. Their 
 crew was of Tacana Indians and these dugouts 
 were the first known on the river. In effect 
 these men had independently invented the 
 " whaleback." 
 
 The endless series of rapids made the callapo 
 with its baggage platform a poor freighter. 
 In their mahogany dugouts they had a series of 
 deck hatches that, when the cargo was on board, 
 were bolted down over rubber gaskets — rubber 
 pure as it came from the tree and spread with a 
 bundle of parrot feathers over a sheet of coarse 
 
232 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 muslin and then smoked in a hot, blue palm 
 smoke. With a couple of these dugouts lashed 
 together they proposed to shoot the little canons 
 and the Nube, the Incaguarra, the Diablo Pin- 
 tado and the Ratama. And they did, too, 
 dropping paddles and clinging with tooth and 
 claw to the bare wet decks on which they had 
 omitted to put cleats or rope holds. But it was 
 an eminently successful venture and they slowly 
 chipped away with adze and ax until on their 
 next trip they had a fleet of seven dugouts, each 
 some thirty-five to forty feet in length, and from 
 a single log of caobo, mahogany, or palo-maria, 
 with which they could run the river in either 
 the dry or wet season. With balsas and cal- 
 lapos, as our long delay in Mapiri showed, only 
 under the pressure of emergency was it possible 
 to get up the river. 
 
 As the work progressed It became evident 
 that our original outfit was not sufficient to 
 make any adequate preliminary development. 
 It was not possible to get to bedrock without 
 some machinery, a pump, and some means of 
 sawing lumber for sheet piling. The Cholos 
 were perfectly useless at whip-sawing a log. 
 We tried them and the work was too gruelling. 
 
OPENING UP THE JUNGLE 233 
 
 They were curiously inefficient in any line out- 
 side of their narrow experience. A block and 
 tackle was an unsolved riddle, although they 
 recognized its power. They would take it 
 along cheerfully in the morning and then later 
 send for some one to come up and work it; they 
 could never fathom which rope to pull. Main 
 strength and awkwardness were their reliance 
 and when these failed — carramba, what more 
 could be done? 
 
 According to the custom of the montafia they 
 had been contracted for six months before a 
 judge, an intendente, and amid all sorts of 
 mystic ceremonials of red tape without which 
 Bolivian law and custom looks askance. Five 
 weeks had been a dead loss in Mapiri and two 
 weeks more for gathering them and the time of 
 actual transportation and then almost two 
 months of work in camp came perilously near 
 the expiration of their contracts when it was 
 considered necessary to bring in a new gang. 
 These were hungry to get back to their little 
 villages and join in the high class carnivals and 
 drunken dances. Some of the Cholos were 
 worthless, while others would come back again 
 after a rest on the other side of the Andes, 
 
234 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Segorrondo, the squat little drunkard, was one 
 of the best men in the gang and he had added a 
 new adornment to his peculiarly unattractive 
 exterior. In a fight with the major domo he 
 had had his head laid open with a machete from 
 over his right eye to almost the back of his 
 neck. It was a mere scalp wound, fortunately 
 for Segorrondo as the machete glanced. 
 
 It took six men to hold him while he was 
 stitched up with six stitches. Beauty was to 
 him no object compared with the pain of stitch- 
 ing, and when our surgical job was over, the ef- 
 fect of only six irregular stitches in a twelve 
 inch cut may be imagined. Then we bandaged 
 him securely, gave him an extra drink of 
 canassa, and once more he grinned cheerfully. 
 Later he and his antagonist appeared for an- 
 other drink, each affectionately embracing the 
 other. Without the slightest difficulty the 
 wound healed, leaving an interesting scalloped 
 pattern that was a source of much pride to its 
 owner. 
 
 But It was obviously necessary to get out to 
 the coast for machinery, supplies and another 
 gang of workers. A propria, 3. messenger, was 
 sent overland up the river to notify the Lecco 
 
OPENING UP THE JUNGLE 235 
 
 rivermen a few miles above and a week later 
 four balsas and ten Leccos swung around the 
 bend under the bank in the dawn and we 
 started. 
 
 The crew of a balsa is two men, one fore ana 
 one aft of the platform with poles or a jungle 
 vine for a drag rope. It is not safe for more 
 than one passenger to each balsa for the narrow 
 raft of a wood almost as light as cork is lightly 
 balanced as a canoe. There is no freight 
 worked up river, except rubber, and of that the 
 big bolachas are wedged in under the stilts of 
 the platforms. 
 
 Slowly the little fleet of balsas hugged the 
 shore, poling against the current. Then across 
 the river appeared a stretch of narrow beach 
 and the poles were dropped and the balsa swung 
 out across the current to the other side. Here 
 the vine drag rope would come in use with one 
 Lecco pulling and the other poling, and fairly 
 rapid progress could be made. There was a 
 short stop at a tiny Lecco settlement at Inca- 
 guarra where the chief Lecco, the cacique, 
 lived. He was a shy, bashful, good natured old 
 man who invited us into his hut where we gave 
 him the customary drink. 
 
236 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 On a grass matting was an old woman, a very 
 old woman, his mother, the cacique explained. 
 She was past all intelligence and in the last 
 stages of senile dissolution; huddled up in a 
 corner, she murmured and clucked to herself, 
 meanwhile playing aimlessly with an empty pot 
 and a few bits of grass. The dulled eyes gave 
 no signs of interest or understanding when the 
 old man spoke to her; she suggested more an 
 animal, an aimless, warped little monkey rather 
 than a human being. 
 
 A few months later she died of old age and 
 the old cacique, her son, came with her body 
 wrapped in a frayed matting and borrowed a 
 pick to dig a grave. He obviously was deeply 
 grieved in the subterranean Indian way, and 
 yet there was not the slightest vestige of cere- 
 monial or belief connected with her death. She 
 was dead, a hole in the ground was necessary, 
 and there alone and by himself and full of grief 
 the old man dug it in the remote jungle without 
 any more curiosity in death or religious expres- 
 sion than he would have felt in digging a post- 
 hole for a new hut. 
 
 We bought a few platanos and yuccas from 
 this place and made our breakfast there. Two 
 
OPENING UP THE JUNGLE 237 
 
 hours after leaving a freshet from the rains in 
 the mountains ahead suddenly made itself felt 
 and we were forced to camp till it went down a 
 little. We did not move until the next morning. 
 
CHAPTER XVII 
 
 TWENTY-THREE DAYS AGAINST THE CURRENT 
 
 THE next day the river was harder and 
 steeper and the banks offered more difB- 
 culties either for poling or dragging. 
 From one side to the other we shifted, losing 
 hundreds of yards in crossing as we swept down 
 with the muddy current. And yet these cross- 
 ings were never made until the last moment 
 when the poles could find no bottom and the 
 steep bank came down like a cliff into from fif- 
 teen to fifty feet of water. The little rapids 
 that were nothing more than riffles coming 
 down — that is, in comparison with the real 
 canons and rapids — were slowly poled and 
 dragged through with double crews, inch by 
 inch around some jutting, strategic rocky point 
 and into the upstream eddy beyond. Boils of 
 water burst from under the balsas until you bal- 
 anced with the Leccos on the straining raft like 
 rope dancers on the same strand. 
 
 238 
 
AGAINST THE CURRENT 239 
 
 Once — and no one would suspect a clumsy 
 looking balsa of tippiness — an extra heavy boil 
 of water burst under the balsa ahead and shot 
 Agamemnon and the Leccos into the water. 
 Fortunately it was at the edge of an eddy and no 
 serious consequences resulted except that it kept 
 the Leccos diving in ten feet of opaque, muddy 
 water, for half an hour to recover a rifle. And 
 it took a half a day to get the rifle in shape 
 again. 
 
 That night we reached Caimalebra, a rubber 
 pickers' shack, where was collected the rubber 
 from a still further sub-divided picket line of 
 rubber pickers, and here we camped, exhausted. 
 The Ratama was just ahead and this could only 
 be made if the river was below a certain stage. 
 It was curious to watch the Leccos read every 
 river sign; by this bush and that boulder they 
 knew the height of water in any rapid above. 
 Here in Caimalebra they announced that unless 
 the river went down at least the span of 
 a man's hand, six inches, it would not be 
 possible to get through the Ratama canon 
 and rapids. 
 
 That afternoon they shook their head against 
 going on, the six inches made it impossible. By 
 
240 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 morning it would be lower as they read the 
 weather signs. A little stick was stuck in near 
 shore to measure. In the dawn the river had 
 risen six feet and was raging past the camp, 
 carrying the usual collection of swirling dead 
 driftwood and newly uprooted trees. Food 
 was running low for we had taken nothing 
 from the main camp, as they would need it all 
 before we could get back. The Leccos had a 
 little rice that was giving outj here and there we 
 could get platanos from a rubber hut along the 
 river, but the main reliance was to be on the 
 country between these points. The day before 
 a wild turkey, shot with a rifle for the shot cart- 
 ridges swelled so that a shot gun was useless, 
 was delicious but scanty. This day I took a 
 balsa across the river to try for pig or parrot or 
 turkey, or monkey if we were lucky, or some- 
 thing anyway, for the Calmalebra place was 
 vacant of platano or food except for the small 
 family there. 
 
 All day I tramped over the hardest kind of 
 country with four of the Leccos, swinging down 
 ledges by the jungle vines or wriggling through 
 the masses of tangled growth in the trail of a 
 Lecco with a short machete. And as a result — • 
 
AGAINST THE CURRENT 241 
 
 nothing. Once there was a parrot motionless in 
 the fork of a tree high up and across an impass- 
 able gully and not worth while. 
 
 The river had dropped two feet and risen 
 three later; all day it had been playing at this 
 game and the heavy clouds in the hills made 
 the prospects discouraging. It was a scanty 
 meal that night. After darkness had settled a 
 tropical downpour came up that showed no 
 signs of abating. Steadily it poured until after 
 daybreak and all hands slept as best they might, 
 soaked to the skin. The shelter tent was in a 
 thin, widespread brook that the upper trenching 
 did not stop or divert. As fast as one built a 
 little protecting dam it was washed away and 
 the bank poured a steady stream into the river 
 as from the eaves of a roof. And the river rose 
 ten feet in the night. It seemed impossible that 
 we could ever get around the Ratama, but 
 there was not a half day's rations left in 
 camp. 
 
 It seemed as if it was useless to wait for the 
 river and essential that we should get to the big 
 barraca of Ysipuri where there were ample sup- 
 plies for our party. There was no overland 
 trail, it was through a jungle, six, ten, fifteen 
 
242 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 miles, you could take your choice of the Lecco 
 guesses. So with a couple of Leccos we started. 
 The others were to try the canon when they 
 would, and reliance was well placed in them; 
 there are no finer rivermen to be found any- 
 where in the world. 
 
 The hunting of the day before had seemed 
 hard going, but it was nothing to this; up and 
 down over gullies and waist deep in the tum- 
 bling brooks at their bottom; down sheer cliffs 
 where the tropical vegetation grew so rank that 
 a natural ladder would be formed by the tangle 
 of interlaced roots or hanging mora, and skirt- 
 ing the face of ravines clawing a hand and foot- 
 hold step by step. I carried only a rifle and 
 twice I had to pass it to a Lecco and then had 
 no easy task left. As for the two Leccos, they 
 carried somewhere around a fifty pound pack 
 each and barefooted swung along among the 
 vegetation as easily as might a couple of mon- 
 keys. 
 
 Perhaps the river went down suddenly, 
 though it is more likely that it was the removal 
 of the diffidence that our presence entailed; at 
 any rate, the Leccos themselves pulled through 
 that night and reached Ysipuri with the balsas. 
 
AGAINST THE CURRENT 243 
 
 For thirteen days we were held in Ysipuri, the 
 river persistently refusing to lessen its height, 
 while a succession of rains sent down a series of 
 heavy freshets. It was not a dull time. 
 
 A Lecco was held as a prisoner by the agent 
 on a charge of attempted murder. I saw him as 
 in the dusk of evening he sat in the doorway of 
 his prison hut taking the air. His wife and 
 small boy sat with him and kept his legs muffled 
 in an old poncho so that the heavy iron shackles 
 riveted upon his ankles would not show. He 
 was a fine looking Lecco and obviously of enor- 
 mous strength. It seems that another Lecco was 
 found with his back cut to ribbons, apparently 
 from one of the twisted bull whips of that coun- 
 try, and with his breast beaten in. 
 
 The victim lived and this Lecco had disap- 
 peared. Presently he was captured and held in 
 leg shackles, waiting for some indefinite ar- 
 raignment. However, while we were at the 
 barraca he escaped, leg shackles and all, and was 
 not heard of until, some months later, he turned 
 up below at our camp and we became good 
 friends. There was the gravest doubt as to his 
 guilt, the Leccos are most peaceful, and the 
 whole affair was the result of a drunken fiesta of 
 
244 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 mixed breeds in which not one was fit to remem- 
 ber anything. 
 
 In addition there was a serious fight among 
 the Cholos, Leccos, and rubber pickers one Sun- 
 day evening in which shots were fired, a dog 
 killed, and a couple of men wounded slightly, 
 while numerous others nursed unseen sore heads 
 and bruises. An appeal for help was sent over 
 the little creek that ran through the barraca and 
 the agent called on us ; so our little party of three 
 white men, a half dozen of the more reliable em- 
 ployees, and the messenger splashed back 
 through the darkness with our guns in our hands 
 — in addition my heart was in my mouth — and 
 reestablished order. It was a drunken fight 
 over the favors of an old Lecco lady, a bleared 
 old party of some fifty coquetting years. 
 
 In one day in the main shack two snakes were 
 killed, one in a room and the other in the kitchen, 
 both of the deadly German-flag species. Beau- 
 tiful, slender reptiles they were, with broad 
 bands of black broken at regular intervals with 
 narrow bands of cream and vermilion stripes, 
 and of exceeding venom. That same night as I 
 threw open my blanket preparatory to turning 
 in a third German-flag made a graceful letter 
 
AGAINST THE CURRENT 245 
 
 S on the blue wool. Alarmed he darted off 
 through the cane walls into the next room, the 
 store-room. Two successive rooms were emp- 
 tied before the snake was at last killed. There 
 was not a man in the place who would have gone 
 to sleep with that snake in the place, if it took 
 all night to get him. 
 
 Then, just as we were about to start, a young 
 boy was brought in, half Lecco and half Cholo, 
 the son of a man who had been murdered while 
 working in his little yucca patch up across the 
 Uyappi River. He had been shot from behind 
 through the stomach and had lain helpless until 
 he died, although this boy, from his own account, 
 was in the hut less than a hundred feet away all 
 the time. The boy, he was not twelve, stuck to 
 his story that he had heard no shot, nothing out 
 of the ordinary. The chief agent in the barraca 
 consulted with the Lecco crews who had brought 
 him in. 
 
 "He did it," they responded; "make him 
 tell." 
 
 He was flogged with a knotted rope's end and 
 though he still clung to his palpably false story 
 — and also he had been heard to make threats 
 against the old man. After the flogging Re was 
 
246 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 locked up to face another later unless he should 
 have repented. 
 
 Up here in nicely civilized and sensitive sur- 
 roundings the flogging reads like the brutality of 
 a savage tribe. It was revolting and yet — what 
 would you have done? The intendente would 
 have had him flogged with a twisted bull whip — 
 do you know what that is or what that means ? A 
 twisted thong of rawhide whose blow, drawn 
 skillfully in the delivering, cuts a strip from the 
 flesh; where fifty lashes properly laid on are 
 equivalent to death. And to have turned him 
 over to the legal authorities — the legal authori- 
 ties east of the Andes! They are there in name 
 — but their functions are a joke. The best the 
 boy could have hoped for would have been to 
 march wearily day after day in leg shackles and 
 chained to his guards or to any other adult 
 prisoner, over the snows and blizzards of the 
 high passes and then to rot dully in a Bolivian 
 jail. Probably he could not have undergone 
 the rigors of the march, and lucky for him if he 
 could not. 
 
 As it was, he had the benefit of a civilized 
 doubt and received only what the sentiment of 
 his own people demanded. And he was not too 
 
AGAINST THE CURRENT 247 
 
 old but what he could profit by it. By strict 
 adherence to legalized forms, or those of them 
 that would have been applied, he would have 
 been killed by slow, indifferent inches. 
 
 At last the river went down enough and we 
 were off. We poled steadily along through an 
 unending series of rapids, crossing from one side 
 to the other through canons and losing in the 
 crossing all and more of the hard won ground. 
 In one place in three hours we did not gain 
 one hundred yards. And then came the rains 
 again. 
 
 We barely made the farther side of the Uy- 
 appi when the river laid siege. It rose twelve 
 feet in the night and held us three days in a little 
 hut at the junction of the two rivers, raining for 
 two of them. The agent at Ysipuri had joined 
 with us as he too was going out on business, 
 and his balseros combined with ours made a 
 very respectable expedition. The tiny hut was 
 built by one man for himself and into it each 
 night crowded some twenty Indians. They held 
 a dance, a queer, shuffling trot with dull, droning 
 mumbles that passed among the Leccos as song, 
 one night and the next day they spent in celebrat- 
 ing the birthday of one of the crew. Cane plat- 
 
248 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 forms were built in the hut until there were three 
 floors, or tiers, to the eaves and on these we all 
 crowded sociably. 
 
 Their shy diffidence gave way, they laughed 
 and joked openly and with a childish innocence 
 over any man being able to see out of glasses. 
 They asked me questions of my home, my tribe, 
 and my rivers, but the answers were Greek to 
 them. They had no means of knowing the out- 
 side world. They answered my questions cheer- 
 fully, through an interpreter each way, of course. 
 They taught me to count in the Lecco tongue, 
 the Riki-riki as they call their dialect: 
 
 One — Bera 
 . Two — Toi 
 Three — Tsai 
 Four — Dirai 
 Five — Bercha 
 Six — Ber-pachmo 
 
 Seven — Toi-pachmo ' 
 
 Eight — Tsai-pachmo 
 Nine — Ber-pela 
 Ten — Ber-beuncay 
 Eleven — Beri-beuncay-ber-hotai 
 Twelve — Beri-beuncay-toi-hotai, etc., etc., etc. 
 
AGAINST THE CURRENT 249 
 
 Twenty is simply Toi-bencai and beyond this 
 few Leccos could go with certainty, while some 
 were at sea even up to this point. Yet they had 
 no difficulty in actual counting; it was simply 
 over names for the higher numbers that they 
 stumbled. 
 
 Once more we began the poling and dragging. 
 This stretch of the river had given us no con- 
 cern coming down, yet it was one of the hardest 
 we encountered on the long pull up. One rock 
 that jutted from the shore took my balsa an hour 
 and a half to pass. Time and time again the 
 vine parted and my Lecco and I were swept 
 down with the current and around in the eddies, 
 to repeat the process after we had paddled ashore 
 and tried again. 
 
 In another place we had to work the balsa up 
 into the very spray from a cataract only four feet 
 high, but over which the river poured in a thun- 
 derous volume, then cast loose with one mighty 
 shove, and paddle for the opposite bank, while in 
 the meantime the balsa was being tossed in the 
 bursting boils of water at the surface or spun 
 and dragged like a chip by the whirlpools that 
 floated with the current. Three times this swept 
 my balsa half a mile below — only one balsa made 
 
250 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 the crossing at the first try — and it looked more 
 than once as though we would be upset for an un- 
 certain swim. 
 
 That night we made camp at Tiaponti. Here 
 a new cane shack had just had the triumphant 
 finish to a palm thatch roof and everyone in that 
 little finca was already drunk. From some- 
 where we got one precious chicken for ourselves 
 and the Lecco crews laid down to sleep, scarcely 
 bothering the cook; they were so exhausted. It 
 was the only time I ever saw any of them 
 decline the opportunity for one of these festal 
 drunks. 
 
 Early the next morning we started. One more 
 day that was a little easier and for hours we poled 
 upstream against a gentle current along the bank 
 and picked wild guayavas from the overhanging 
 trees. It is a delicious fruit — although never 
 since have I been able to find its kind, even in the 
 cultivated tropics. This wild guayava looked 
 somewhat like a small, gnarled quince on the 
 outside; on the inside it had a most delicate pink 
 pulp beyond a little rind, a delicious pulp that 
 combined the melting flavor of the strawberry 
 with the texture and modifications of a superior 
 watermelon. It was good. 
 
AGAINST THE CURRENT 251 
 
 That night we landed in Guanai, — twenty- 
 three days of baffled progress against the same 
 river and the same current that had flicked us 
 down from this same Guanai in two days. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 BY PACK MULE THROUGH THE JUNGLE 
 
 IT was useless to attempt to battle with the 
 river further. Above, before Mapiri could 
 be reached, were narrower canons where 
 there were only handholds and often not that, 
 where the canons were often nothing more than 
 a polished flume of rock. It had taken the Lec- 
 cos two failures and over a month of the most 
 gruelling work when they finally reached us 
 before in that village, and then they had been 
 living on berries and roots and palm-nuts for 
 the last two days. So we decided on the over- 
 land trail to Mapiri. There we could get 
 our saddles and outfit for the trail over the high 
 passes. 
 
 Up to Guanai there was no trail, not even a 
 Lecco foot-path, and it was a relief to give the 
 orders for mules and see the sure-footed, flop- 
 
 252 
 
THROUGH THE JUNGLE 253 
 
 eared brutes come ambling to our doorway. 
 For a saddle there was a wreck, a dried leather 
 cast-off that would go after some piecing with 
 rope. An arriero, dressed in a suit made from 
 old flour sacks with the brand still showing in 
 faded blue, had a pack train that was just going 
 out with some rubber and it was his cargo mules 
 that we hired. His ordinary route lay through 
 the Tipuani country and he charged us some out- 
 rageous sum — something like five dollars apiece, 
 silver — for going out via Mapiri over the worst 
 trail in Bolivia and some sixty or eighty miles 
 out of his way. 
 
 Officially, both Mapiri and Guanai recognize 
 that they are connected by a land trail yet we 
 had not left Guanai a half hour before the last 
 vestige of a trail was gone and the mules plunged 
 into a wilderness of low scrub and tall ferns. 
 The Andean foothills twisted themselves in a 
 maze of huge convolutions through and up and 
 down whose great gullies and jungled ravines 
 we slipped and scrambled. By intuition or ob- 
 scure landmarks the Cholo arriero found his 
 way and presently we zigzagged down a slope 
 where once more appeared the overgrown re- 
 mains of a trail. Then that too disappeared and 
 
254 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 we followed up the bed of a mountain brook, 
 struck off to one side, again plunged into the 
 brook, climbed a hill, struck another foaming 
 torrent and skirted its banks or followed its 
 windings — the ravine through which it flowed 
 being impassable in any other way — and at last 
 struck a tiny, grass grown, level glade. It was 
 not late, yet overhead the tops of the trees were 
 matted in jungle growths until but scant light 
 filtered through, there was the cool dampness of 
 evening and the perpetual sound of the creaking 
 chirping bugs that, in the open world, only tune 
 up for night concerts. 
 
 The rains had left the jungle dripping with 
 water; we ourselves were as wet as though we 
 had been out in a storm, and even the blankets 
 from the tent pack were clammy and damp. By 
 morning they were wringing wet and all hands 
 were soaked to the skin. A night storm and a 
 hasty camp were responsible, although how a 
 camp could be made on a spongy soil up against 
 a mountain that shed its waters like a roof on 
 your camping bed, and for one night in a march, 
 is a matter of engineering and not of travel. 
 
 In the morning all the wood was too wet to 
 burn and a cold breakfast of leftover tea from 
 
 I 
 
THROUGH THE JUNGLE 255 
 
 the night before, some soggy galletas, crackers, 
 and chancaca added no zest to the opening day. 
 Like the day before this was spent in climbing 
 through the jungle-matted hills or taking ad- 
 vantage of occasional brooks. Here and there 
 the trail reappeared, generally in a series of steps 
 cut in a slippery clay hill, steps three and four 
 feet high and with their tread banked by a log 
 to keep it from washing away. It was killing 
 work for the mules and generally we dismounted 
 and climbed alongside. They would go up in a 
 series of goat-like jumps, throwing the watery 
 mud in a shower with every plunge. Walking 
 up such places was safer for they were really of 
 about the pitch of a ladder and a single slip on 
 the wet, greasy clay would have sent both mule 
 and rider in a broken mass to the bottom of the 
 gully. 
 
 Early in the afternoon — it was not two o'clock 
 — we were blocked by the Mariapa River ; it was 
 a creek, broad and shallow and turbulent and 
 swollen with the recent rains. The only ford 
 was impassable, so once more we sat down to 
 wait for a river to go down. It rose instead and 
 that night we camped by the ford, wet from the 
 afternoon rain and caked with mud. 
 
256 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 There was no wood dry enough to burn and 
 a cold supper with a tin of Chicago's most fa- 
 mous clammy beef stew — " roast beef " — pur- 
 chased in Guanai set forth the camp banquet log. 
 It was already dusk above the tree tops when we 
 made camp and darkness below so that the Cholo 
 arriero had not noticed where we hung the shel- 
 ter tent from the bushes and lay down together. 
 In the morning we awoke covered with a multi- 
 tude of scurrying, inquisitive ants of some large 
 red species. They did not bite and were inof- 
 fensive so far as that was concerned, but our 
 belts, our holsters, our shoes, our gauntlets, every- 
 thing of leather, looked as though it had broken 
 out with small-pox. Tiny disks, perfectly 
 round, had been cut out of the surface of the 
 leather; and in some apparently choice spots 
 where the surface leather had become exhausted 
 they had started cutting out disks in deeper 
 layers. One gauntlet was worthless and the up- 
 per of one shoe was on the verge of dissolution. 
 
 By morning the river had gone down enough 
 to make it possible to attempt it. The cargo 
 mules were packed with their packs high on 
 their backs and driven in. As the pack mules 
 took to the water, our riding mules — who had 
 
THROUGH THE JUNGLE 257 
 
 always carried cargo with the others — came 
 scrambling down the bank and before they could 
 be stopped were out in the ford. Thereupon we 
 undressed, cut long stout poles, hung our clothes 
 about our necks, and started for the farther bank. 
 
 The water was from the mountains, cold and 
 icy, and the river bottom was rough with boul- 
 ders. With the pole we groped along after the 
 cautious fashion of a tripod while the cold cur- 
 rent rose and chilled rib and marrow and made 
 the matter of balance one of delicacy. There 
 was no danger of drowning, but to be swept ofif 
 one's feet meant broken bones among the white 
 waters below. Not until it was too late to re- 
 treat did these phases loom up clearly. Often 
 one stood poised and balanced by the pole with 
 its hold down stream while the current boiled 
 around the up stream armpit, not daring to grope 
 for the next step lest the pressure of water would 
 carry one ofif. It was different with that tough 
 old arriero; he cut himself a pole, hung his 
 clothes around his neck and came briskly across 
 the water through which I had been teetering 
 uncertainly for twenty minutes. 
 
 Another camp, high and, for a wonder, in the 
 open from which we could see the rolling An- 
 
258 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 dean foot-hills stretching like a billowing sea to 
 the horizon. Three months of steady traveling 
 would not bring one to those farther hills that 
 were within vision. 
 
 The smoke of a rubber picker's hut drifted up 
 from a little gully below us and the arriero came 
 back with a chicken, a bunch of platanos and 
 some onions. The grub box was empty and for 
 that day we had been going on a handful of rice 
 for breakfast, and parched corn and Indian 
 cigarettes. Not a sign of game had been en- 
 countered since leaving Guanai, not even a bird 
 big enough to eat. The mules were thin and 
 gaunt, for them there had been only what they 
 could forage in the jungle or here and there 
 along the trail. 
 
 From here on there was a fairly defined trail. 
 There was also a continuation of small rivers and 
 half the time we seemed to be fording. An oc- 
 casional rubber picker's hut was in plain view 
 and the late morning smoke from their curing 
 fires rose from many points in the forest. A 
 sugar-cane finca with its distillery alongside for 
 canassa spread beyond a broad, muddy river. 
 The mules forded this river, as did the arriero, 
 but there was a bridge there, a rough tower and 
 
On the Rope a Trolley Worked Back and Forth frcm which 
 was Suspended a Tiny Platform 
 
THROUGH THE JUNGLE 259 
 
 platform on either side of the river and a rope 
 stretched across. On the rope a trolley worked 
 back and forth from which was suspended a tiny 
 platform for the passenger to straddle. On the 
 farther platform an Indian ground the windlass 
 that produced the ferriage. It cost four cents, 
 gold, to be hauled across high in the air, over 
 this affair. 
 
 The old Indian at the distillery sold us some 
 real bananas, some platanos, and three eggs. 
 This latter is one of the rarest of articles in any 
 Indian or Cholo's shack, for always there is a pet 
 monkey and the monkey is more fond of eggs — 
 quite as much for the delicious thrill of break- 
 age as for their flavor — than the Indian; also he 
 is far more adept at finding them and it is a very 
 vigilant hen indeed that can guard her full origi- 
 nal setting of eggs once the monkey's agile sus- 
 picions are aroused. One more camp in the 
 hacienda of Villa Vista, a place very similar 
 to the hacienda of old Violand, where at last 
 we had real beds, or those saw-buck cots of na- 
 tive make. I recalled how clumsy these same 
 cots had looked as we had come into the mon- 
 tana and left civilization behind us. Now they 
 seemed to our sophisticated eyes like the most al- 
 
26o ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 luringly aesthetic devices for inducing and en- 
 couraging sleep that were ever invented. 
 
 From the comforts of Villa Vista it was but 
 one day into Mapiri, and here we got out our 
 own saddles, rubbed the mould ofif, saw that 
 bread enough was baked to last us out to Sorata, 
 and started. It had been exactly one month 
 since we stepped on board the balsas at the camp 
 down the river. And that same distance from 
 Mapiri to the camp had been made on rafts on 
 our voyage with the current and shooting the 
 rapids and canons, in three days — a day's travel 
 down the river being equal to ten days' slow 
 work against the same current. 
 
 Again the slow, killing climb over the high 
 pass; the toll gate with its queer little Indian 
 child, the drizzly promontory of Tolopampa, 
 Yngenio, and then the final blizzards and snows 
 at the summit of the pass. From this summit it 
 is less than a half day's ride into Sorata, a trail 
 that takes the best part of two days' climbing to 
 make the other way. 
 
 At Sorata we changed mules and tooK the 
 regular trail, not this time that rarely used, but 
 shorter back trail where the sullen, hostile Ay- 
 maras have their homes, and on the third day 
 
THROUGH THE JUNGLE 261 
 
 were once more above the valley of La Paz. We 
 looked down on its warm red roofs and the little 
 green patch of its park with the masses of low 
 dobe houses through which there ran the feeling 
 of rectangular streets with pavements and the 
 lazily drifting throngs with actual stiff, starched 
 collars and shoes with soles and laces instead 
 of the patch of leather with a pucker string 
 around the top, and thick crockery plates instead 
 of enamelled tin, and pastry and roasts, and twice 
 a week a real band in the plaza — all the effete ac- 
 complishments of civilization. It is no wonder 
 the Bolivians solemnly assure you that La Paz is 
 the Little Paris of South America. When you 
 approach it from the eastern slopes of the Andes, 
 it is a little Paris, a little London, a little old 
 New York. 
 
 Two weeks later I was on my way back into 
 the montana while the chief engineer was on his 
 way to Iquiqui or Callao after machinery. . A 
 Mr. and Mrs. Jackson had their headquarters in 
 Sorata where the former represented a rubber 
 company and they, together with Drew, a wiry 
 little Englishman, who had packed into the 
 country with nothing but a blanket and the 
 ragged clothes he walked in, and myself, com- 
 
262 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 bined to charter a tiny stage-coach, the *' mos- 
 quito '^ as it was known. This, with six horses to 
 haul it to the top of the alto and then with horses 
 in relays at each tambo would bring us to Achi- 
 cachi on the southern shores of Lake Titicaca in 
 one single day of from before dawn till sunset. 
 From there it would be muleback over the first 
 pass and down the trails into Sorata. 
 
 The mosquito was just big enough for four 
 and a tight fit at that. This was fortunate for 
 the little coach — from the outside it looked more 
 like a packing case — with slits of side windows 
 slung above a pair of axles on top of which 
 perched two barefooted Aymaras, one to drive 
 and the other, a boy, to sling the long thonged 
 whip pitched and tumbled in the steady gallop 
 over the rough trails of the plain like a motor 
 boat in a choppy seaway. 
 
 At the mud walled tambo of Cocuta the first 
 change of horses was made. Before we reached 
 Machicomaca, the next tambo for new horses 
 where we ate breakfast in a mud walled, win- 
 dowless room, the brake broke or fell off and 
 had been lost somewhere on the rough trail. 
 The steady gallop of the tough, rough mountain 
 horses kept time to the steady singing and punc- 
 
THROUGH THE JUNGLE 263 
 
 tuating crack of the whip. And yet rarely was 
 a horse struck. An Aymara will drive a crip- 
 pled animal or leave it to die of starvation on a 
 lonely trail without a thought, but it is rarely 
 that he will abuse a beast with actual violence. 
 
 After the change of horses at Copencara there 
 came a steep descent something under a mile 
 long. The driver stopped just over the crest 
 and pointed to the broken brake. Drew spoke 
 a little Aymara, but the sight of the broken brake 
 and the steep hill was enough. We began un- 
 tangling ourselves to descend. Drew climbed 
 out stiffly and was followed by Jackson, this 
 freed his wife, but she had scarcely put her foot 
 to the step when the mosquito gave a lurch for- 
 ward and we were off. There had not been even 
 time to jump. It happened in an instant; the 
 door was banging with the plunging coach ; Mrs. 
 Jackson was thrown in one corner and above the 
 noise of flying stones and rattling of the coach 
 could be heard the Aymara yelling at his horses 
 and the crack of the whip. 
 
 Unused to breechings, these mountain horses, 
 half wild — at least as far as harness was 
 concerned — had felt the mosquito press forward 
 against them. They were off in a flash and 
 
264 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 jumping down this hill with an unbraked coach 
 bouncing at their heels. If the horses could not 
 outrun the coach we stood a certain chance of 
 piling up in a wreck, horses, Aymara, coach, 
 and two perfectly good and useful Americans. 
 So it was that the Aymara held his horses at 
 their top speed. 
 
 Never was there such a ride — not even in the 
 rapids of the Ratama. In one instant of lurch- 
 ing we looked fairly down upon the swift, 
 blurred ground over which we sped, and in the 
 next there flashed past the rim of snow-capped 
 mountains and then the cold, deep blue of the 
 high heavens. The flying stones from the horses 
 banged against the mosquito in a vicious storm. 
 Inside my voice could not be heard above the 
 uproar. I had somehow wadded all the pon- 
 chos and blankets and wedged Mrs. Jackson in 
 one corner of the mosquito in very much the 
 same way as one packs china; if we smashed the 
 wadding might help a little. Then I braced 
 myself with my feet against a corner of the roof 
 with all the purchase I could secure and pushed 
 against the bundle I had made. It was the only 
 thing I could think of, and at any rate, it held 
 us both firm against the terrific bouncing. 
 
Never Was There Such a Ride — Not Even in the Rapids of the 
 
 Ratama 
 
THROUGH THE JUNGLE 265 
 
 Presently, — though it seemed an hour — we 
 could feel that the bottom of the hill was reached 
 and then came the slow lessening of speed as the 
 Aymara brought the horses gradually to a stop. 
 We climbed out, the Aymara got down off his 
 perch and looked over the horses curiously, and 
 waved his hands in expressive pantomime at the 
 mosquito and back at the hill, a steep water-worn 
 trail of ruts on either side of which the ground 
 dropped in rough slopes. Luckily it was 
 straight, the lightest curve, at the pace we had 
 gone, would have shot the outfit halfway across 
 the gorges before we struck the ground. One 
 horse was lame and the others sagged until we 
 made the last change at Guarina, another old 
 time Aymara village. 
 
CHAPTER XIX 
 
 THE INDIAN UPRISING 
 
 IT was in the cold dusk of the high altitude 
 and tingling with the chill winds that blew 
 from Mount Sorata when we clattered 
 through the streets of Achicachi. Little crystals 
 of ice were already forming in the stagnant pools 
 and little flurries of snow stung as it whistled 
 through the dull streets of this ancient town. On 
 the edge of Lake Titicaca, this ancient town of 
 Achicachi is the home of petty smugglers who 
 can run their contraband in the native straw 
 boats across from the Peruvian shores. The re- 
 mains of the old mud wall that surrounded it in 
 the days of the Incas are still fairly preserved 
 in places and its population is still practically 
 Aymara, with only a sprinkling of half-breed 
 Cholos. 
 On fiesta days the little police are held in their 
 
 barracks on the big open plaza and sally forth 
 
 266 
 
THE INDIAN UPRISING 267 
 
 only in parties. The Aymaras gather in great 
 numbers from a score of tribal divisions and 
 unite in the typical drunken dances and festivi- 
 ties. Factions forget and renew old differences 
 and toward evening little battles break out in the 
 streets or the plaza. The streets are unsafe and 
 the few white Bolivians and better Cholos stay 
 within. Always there is the danger of an In- 
 dian uprising and that occasionally takes form. 
 Between times in the fiestas the Aymaras are 
 handled without regard, at the first word — or 
 less — they are clubbed and for but little more 
 shot. 
 
 The dusk of fiesta is filled with drunken, sul- 
 len Indians among whom wander here and there 
 dishevelled creatures with clotted wounds. Oc- 
 casionally the sullen buzz rises, a little restless 
 movement begins from some section of the big 
 plaza, and in a moment a knot of Bolivian police 
 are plunging in to come back with bloody car- 
 bine butts. Always there is the dull hatred of 
 the Bolivian by the Aymara which comes easily 
 to the surface at these times. And there is not 
 a Bolivian statute governing the sale of liquor 
 to an Aymara; if he gets dangerous when drunk, 
 beat him; if too dangerous, kill him. 
 
268 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 In the " hotel " in Achicachi the rooms are 
 windowless and range around the four sides of 
 the patio. You furnish your own bed and bed- 
 ding and each holds a heavy log with which 
 to bar the door. In the patio and in and out of 
 the open rooms some native razor-back hogs 
 wandered at their will and off on one side, more 
 exclusive, was a friendly peccary who would 
 sidle up and grunt sociably in return for a little 
 back scratching. Over by one of the rooms and 
 tied outside was the queerest animal ; from across 
 the patio it looked like a very small bear with 
 heavy, long fur yet with queer indefinable dif- 
 ference that explained itself when a closer ap- 
 proach developed a monkey! He was a capu- 
 cin, the most friendly and delightful of the mon- 
 key tribe, and here he was, miles from his warm, 
 tropical home, cheerfully chattering by the side 
 of a tin can that was already filmed with ice and 
 sticking out his pink tongue to lick off the flakes 
 of snow that gathered on his fur — a fur that had 
 grown to enormous length and thickness and left 
 him peering with a brown, quizzical face out 
 from it like a shrivelled winter-clad chauffeur 
 of some stock broker's quean. 
 
 The next evening we arrived in Sorata — and 
 
THE INDIAN UPRISING 269 
 
 from there on the difficulties began to pile them- 
 selves, one on the other. A big, abrupt and 
 surly egotist had been carefully chosen by some 
 Board of Directors back in the States to manage 
 a rubber proposition — in a frontier country like 
 that every one depends for countless things on 
 neighbors, though neighbors may mean separa- 
 tions that measure hundreds of miles — yet this 
 gentleman had left a trail of hostility from the 
 coast, besides a record for both Scotch and rye 
 whiskey that could hardly be surpassed. He 
 wore khaki clothes and a Colt with a nine inch 
 barrel on his strolls in Sorata and he published 
 conspicuously in bad Spanish and English, 
 which he ordered translated, his opinion of all, 
 Bolivian, Cholo, Aymara, or American. 
 
 His company had committed unutterable fol- 
 lies from a leather director's chair seven thou- 
 sand miles away and he proposed to see those fol- 
 lies carried out to the letter. Sometimes we 
 have wondered why our efforts in South Ameri- 
 can trade and development have met with such 
 scanty success. He was one of the reasons. 
 Rumors came that he had become hostile to our 
 camp down the river, that they encroached on 
 his privileges or were using men whom he had 
 
270 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 contracted, though we were miles from his prop- 
 erties or influence. As a matter of fact the 
 leather chair directors had made a contract for 
 callapos at a figure below cost to the balseros — • 
 and for an advance payment — and had been 
 swindled. The leather chair directors had 
 merely swindled themselves in what was at best 
 an oversharp Yankee bargain — and in a country 
 where the law does not run east of the Andes 
 and only primitive justice prevails! In default 
 of either of the latter, he proposed to dictate to 
 any one who went into the montana and down 
 the river when and how they might or might 
 not use callapos offered by balseros. But I had 
 at that time other things to think of. 
 
 A pack train of some fifty mules with supplies 
 had come in from La Paz for our camp. Also 
 some fifteen Cholo laborers, and a mechanic for 
 the camp and among them a Jap, a queer, silent, 
 pink-cheeked Jap. He was immaculate in ap- 
 pearance and always dapper ; how or why he ever 
 drifted into that part of the world was a mystery. 
 He had a little baggage in a nice little lacquered 
 box which, as was revealed later in the rainswept 
 stone hut of Tolopampa, contained the secret of 
 his pink cheeks. In that dull dawn he had out 
 
THE INDIAN UPRISING 271 
 
 • 
 
 a little mirror and a bit of carmine and charcoal 
 with which he was adding beautifying touches. 
 On down the river in camp he always appeared 
 the same ; but he was a fine workman and could 
 go teetering along on the ridgepole of a house 
 as easily as a Lecco could run along the river 
 bank. And this outfit arrived with no money to 
 pay for itself, money that the company should 
 have, and had promised to send in. 
 
 The agent left by the engineer in La Paz had 
 sent no money and the outfit promptly began eat- 
 ing its head off. The single wire that irregularly 
 kept La Paz in touch with Sorata was down — * 
 very likely one of the times when an Aymara 
 had needed some wire in wrapping his iron 
 ploughshare fast to the crooked tree trunk or for 
 tying on his roof tree— and I could not reach the 
 agent. Another day and no wire fixed. On 
 the third came the news from the village of 
 Illabaya, some fifteen miles away that the Ay- 
 maras had broken loose and there was an In- 
 dian uprising. From the valley of Sorata we 
 could see the mountains with tiny fires flickering 
 at night, apparently as signals, and occasionally 
 an Indian driving a string of cattle into hiding 
 along some far off Andean trail. The house- 
 
272 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 holders in Sorata began storing water in ollas in 
 their patios and rifles and cartridges tripled in 
 price. And still there was no wire to La Paz 
 by which either I or the intendente — who 
 wanted soldiers — could get a message through 
 from Sorata. 
 
 The men were boarded out and money was 
 absolutely essential to keep their rations going 
 and to pay any more bills that might come in 
 with more pack trains. Once let the slightest 
 suspicion get the air that there was no money at 
 hand and the workmen would have fled like quail 
 and it would have been a matter of the utmost 
 difficulty to secure them, or any others, again. 
 It meant a very serious emergency for the camp. 
 What had happened in La Paz I did not know, 
 but it became imperative to find out, Aymara 
 outbreak or not. The only man available to go 
 with me, Skeffington, was a great tall man, pro- 
 portionately built, and a splendid fellow, whose 
 weight would be a handicap to a horse in any 
 emergency. So I decided to go alone. 
 
 I started at dawn on a little, tough mountain- 
 bred horse and had passed the divide early in the 
 afternoon. At Huaylata I stopped for break- 
 fast — a tin of salmon and some cakes of Ay- 
 
THE INDIAN UPRISING 273 
 
 mara bread — a little outside the sprawling col- 
 lection of mud huts, and an Indian woman came 
 out and sold me a sheaf of barley for the horse. 
 There were no signs of Indian trouble here. 
 The horse ate and then drank and as he finished 
 drinking he threw up his head and the blood 
 trickled in a heavy stream from his nostrils and 
 he trembled. 
 
 If the horse was frightened he was not more 
 so than I. To be horseless and on foot in an 
 Indian plain and with the uncertain rumors of 
 Aymara outbreaks that might have spread like 
 a flame among that dull, hostile population was 
 the most unpleasant situation I have ever faced. 
 The little Indian towns where I expected to 
 camp, Copencara and the tambo of Cocuta, were 
 safe enough, but the thought of getting even to 
 Achicachi — where I might be able to get a fresh 
 horse — gave me five minutes of cold and clammy 
 quivers of panic at the pit of my stomach. The 
 horse stood with the blood dripping in a steady 
 patter on the cold ground while a puddle slowly 
 grew into a great red blot; he looked at me with 
 what, to my understanding, appeared to be his 
 final vision from dulling eyes; the straggling 
 population of the scattering huts of Huaylata 
 
274 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 seemed to have become raised to the final power 
 of sinister hostility; there was no doubt that I 
 was frightened. I took a box of cartridges from 
 my saddle bags and distributed them in my 
 pockets so their weight bore evenly and waited. 
 There was nothing else to do. There was no 
 use in starting on foot till the horse was surely; 
 dead. 
 
 Presently the horse went back to the spring, 
 took a little drink, and then turned to the cebada 
 and began nibbling. I felt better for no seri- 
 ously deranged animal would eat in its final mo- 
 ments. The trickling of blood grew less and 
 the animal showed in better shape. If he could 
 only last to Achicachi, that was all that I wanted. 
 
 I did not think it wise to start on foot and 
 leading the horse — that would advertise the fact 
 that I was crippled — while I could wait in 
 Huaylata without betraying anything more than 
 a sluggish and lazy disposition. I tried mount- 
 ing at last and the horse grunted and then started 
 slowly. How I nursed him those miles; out of 
 sight of Huaylata I walked; the bleeding had 
 stopped, but he seemed weak; I took his tem- 
 perature with my hand, I petted him, I gave him 
 a bite of chocolate, and when any Aymara huts 
 
THE INDIAN UPRISING 275 
 
 or little parties hove in sight I mounted and rode 
 by. 
 
 Steadily the horse Improved and at times re- 
 sponded to a test trot without difficulty so that 
 I rode through Achicachi without stopping. 
 Only once had I had the sign of trouble and that 
 was a little group of Aymaras near the begin- 
 ning of an old Inca causeway that cuts across one 
 arm of Lake Titicaca. They were drunk and I 
 could hear snatches of their thin, wailing songs 
 while they were still dots in the distance. As I 
 rode by they were at one side of the trail where 
 an old mud building held forth as a chicharia 
 and struggling in that aimless drunken fashion 
 that seems so common to all topers and that di- 
 vides all wassailing bands into those prudent 
 souls who are already drunk enough and know it 
 and those who won't go home until morning or 
 till daylight, or the day after, doth appear. 
 They started for me uncertainly, one reached for 
 a stone, but an Aymara rushed out of the house 
 and knocked it from his hand. Some of the 
 more sober came, too, and again the wrangling 
 started, apparently as to whether they should 
 rush me or not. And in the meantime I had rid- 
 den out of reach. 
 
276 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 There was nothing to fear in that incident, 
 at least so far as my immediate safety had been 
 concerned. But the critical point lay in avoid- 
 ing trouble; no one Indian or similar group 
 would have had a chance, unarmed as they were, 
 against any man with a gun, but in a peculiarly 
 abrupt Indian fashion the countryside is aroused 
 and trouble is apt to close in on the trail ahead in 
 a particularly congested and fatal manner. 
 
 I had planned to camp in Copencara, but the 
 delay left me plodding along in the cold dark- 
 ness and I was glad when I reached Guarina. 
 In the blackness I rode into a pack-train of 
 sleepy llamas before they knew it — or I either 
 for that matter — and on the instant I could hear 
 the patter and thud of their padded feet as they 
 scattered in a panic stricken flight, while from 
 out of the night came the hissing herd-calls of 
 the Aymara drivers trying to hold them together. 
 Off from the highway that led through the town 
 and from somewhere beyond the walled streets 
 there came the dull beating of many Aymara 
 drums and the mournful tootling of their flutes. 
 Now and again there was the bang of a dyna- 
 mite cartridge and the pop of firecrackers. An 
 Aymara flitted by in the streets and I called to 
 
THE INDIAN UPRISING 277 
 
 him for the way to the house of the corregidor — 
 the chief official. All I could get of his reply 
 was the respectful " Tata " as he disappeared. 
 
 There was not a light that gleamed through a 
 chink in any window or door, the wretched 
 streets were deserted, and only the noises of the 
 fiesta and the occasional glow from a big bonfire 
 down some alley showed where the only signs 
 of life existed. It was possible that the cor- 
 regidor was barricaded in his house as in 
 the very recent affair at Illabaya and I had no 
 mind to intrude on any collection of Aymaras 
 beating tom-toms and raising drunken memories 
 of their abused ancestors. It looked ominous. 
 
 Presently another dim figure pattered through 
 the darkness and again I asked for the way to the 
 corregidor. The Aymara gave explanations 
 that I could not have followed in daylight and 
 then started off to lead the way, straight down 
 an alley to the plaza where were the bonfires 
 and the drums and the dancing and the explo- 
 sions. Along one side we skirted until the far- 
 ther side was reached. It was a big plaza — al- 
 most as big as the town — and it was filled with 
 Aymaras from miles around. A mass of shift- 
 ing groups shufHed in their trotting dance around 
 
278 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 the fires and hundreds of unattached guests wan- 
 dered drunkenly about or lay stupefied as they 
 fell with their faithful wife — or wives — taking 
 care of the bottle of alcohol till they should re- 
 vive afresh and athirst. 
 
 At one end of this plaza my guide stopped, he 
 was a tattered ragged Aymara — a pongo — a car- 
 rier of water and of the lowest caste, and left me 
 at the headquarters of the corregidor to whom 
 I had the customary right of the country to ap- 
 peal for shelter. When there is no corregidor 
 you go to the padre. He was a Cholo, a heavy, 
 thick-set man with a strong face, dressed in the 
 ordinary clothes of a white man, whose peculiar 
 dull complexion alone marked him as Cholo. 
 A couple of tattered police lounged in the door- 
 way and a half dozen Cholos were idling around 
 this headquarters. A Winchester leaned against 
 the corregidor's chair, some of the others car- 
 ried theirs as they shuffled about, and back in the 
 dimness of the room could be seen extra carbines 
 leaning against the walls, and from every belt 
 there was the bulge under the coat that indicated 
 a revolver. 
 
 The corregidor looked at me curiously; a lone 
 traveler at night on the high plateaus in these 
 
THE INDIAN UPRISING 279 
 
 uncertain times and speaking bad Spanish was 
 something of a novelty. One of the ragged 
 policemen took me in charge and once again I 
 was back in the dark alleys. Before a door in a 
 long wall we stopped and then a rusty key 
 squeaked and both horse and I walked through 
 into the walled patio around whose sides opened 
 the windowless rooms. The policeman brought 
 in a bundle of cebada for my horse and a bowl of 
 native Bolivian soup-stew, stinging with aji and 
 grateful in its warmth. For the food and forage 
 I paid, but for the house and shelter the cor- 
 regidor would accept nothing. There was no 
 bed nor did I need any, with my saddle and 
 blankets. After the door had been barricaded 
 with the log used for the purpose, I was asleep 
 at once to the lulling of drums and flutes and 
 banging dynamite. 
 
CHAPTER XX 
 
 AMBUSHED BY LADRONES 
 
 EARLY in the morning I was off; some of 
 the celebrants of the night before were 
 strewn along the streets, still drunk, and 
 among them the sociable hogs rooted or wan- 
 dered. The horse I looked over anxiously, but 
 he was sound as a dollar and even a little frisky 
 in the keen air. Once in a while an Indian 
 was to be seen plowing a tiny patch of the An- 
 dean plateau with a bull and a crooked tree 
 trunk or here and there a single iSgure plodding 
 the trail. In the afternoon I caught up with a 
 Spaniard, the manager of a gold mine back in 
 the mountains he said, and together we rode 
 comfortably along. Until we met I had no idea 
 of the enormous craving for companionship that 
 can develop in the human mind. Bolivian 
 fashion, he had galloped and exhausted his horse 
 in the early morning and now it could not be 
 urged off a tired walk. 
 
 280 
 
AMBUSHED BY L'ADRONES 281 
 
 ^'t Cocuta we stopped and had a little supper, 
 some fried eggs and a hot stew, mainly of aji, 
 while the horses rested with loosened girths. 
 La Paz was only some twelve miles distant and 
 to the edge of the high plain from which its 
 lights could be seen even less. I was going on 
 so that I could get in that night. The Span- 
 iard's idea was to stop in one of the mud rooms 
 of the tambo and ride in, freshened, foam-be- 
 decked, and prancing in the morning. The 
 mud rooms, acrid with llama-dung smoke from 
 the cooking fires and infested as well, made no 
 appeal to me. My companion went outside to 
 look over his horse and came back in a state of 
 suppressed excitement. He beckoned me over 
 in one of the mud rooms : 
 
 "There are here a gang of ladrones — high- 
 waymen," he said. " We must go on at once 
 I know them. They killed the mail carrier on 
 the trail last month. We dare not stop here — 
 we will saddle slowly and ride on as if we had 
 not noticed them. Then we can see if they fol- 
 low." 
 
 We tightened the girths and the Spaniard's 
 Indian boy picked up his bundle and swung 
 alongside on foot — he could keep up with the 
 
282 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 horse at the end of a day's march on the trails. 
 As we rode out of the corral there was a group 
 of Cholos and Bolivians mud spattered and 
 dusty who had evidently just arrived. Their 
 animals wandered around while their riders 
 with a bottle of alcohol and some bottles of na- 
 tive beer were getting drunk as rapidly as possi- 
 ble. One of them had on an old style blue army 
 overcoat of the United States and, so far as looks 
 went, they easily lived up to the reputation of 
 brigands that my Spanish friend had just given 
 them. 
 
 The interesting question for us was whether 
 they would follow and overtake us. The cold 
 afterglow of sunset was almost at our backs and 
 we carefully watched the long, level horizon 
 on which Cocuta long remained in sight for 
 signs of horsemen. The Spaniard was for 
 covering ground as fast as possible, but I in- 
 sisted on keeping to a walk; his horse was played 
 out and needed to be saved up to the last minute 
 if we were really in for a bad time. 
 
 It grew dark, and the thinnest possible silver 
 of moon gave only an accent to the night. No 
 following horsemen had appeared and we were 
 feeling quite relieved when the Indian boy spoke 
 
AMBUSHED BY LADRONES 283 
 
 to the Spaniard. Off on our right, perhaps' a 
 couple of hundred feet from the trail furrows, 
 rode a little group of horsemen. There were 
 four or five, in the night it was uncertain, but 
 they were off the trail — for nothing that one 
 could imagine except of a sinister purpose since 
 everyone follows the trail — and suiting their 
 pace to ours, were walking abreast without clos- 
 ing in. We had dismounted to ease our horses 
 and now we climbed back into the saddles. The 
 figures did not close in nor did they give any sign. 
 " They are trying to count us," said my friend, 
 and then he added, " have you another pistol, 
 senor, one that you could lend me — I have not 
 
 one." 
 
 I had not. And I remember to this day the 
 cold, clammy undulations of my spine as I real- 
 ized that the only gun between us belonged to 
 me and that whatever responsibilities the situa- 
 tion developed the field of action was also to be 
 wholly mine. 
 
 The hold-up in these parts is not practiced 
 with the gentle chivalry of the " hands up " or 
 stand-and-deliver method; you are first shot up 
 and, if the aim has been successful from the 
 chosen ambush, your remains are searched. 
 
284 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Spanish — or the surviving Bolivian procedure 
 — places a very high value on the testimony of 
 surviving principals, so much so that one of the 
 effects of any form of hold-up is to see that there 
 are no surviving principals. 
 
 The little figures off the trail kept pace with us 
 and gave no sign. Presently they gradually 
 quickened their gait and disappeared in the 
 darkness ahead. The Spaniard laid his hand 
 softly on my arm : 
 
 " They have gone ahead to await us in an 
 arroyo, senor," he said. " Be sure that your 
 pistol is in order.'' 
 
 These arroyos are gashes in the high plateau, 
 sometimes only six or eight feet deep and more 
 often deep gullies with a dried watercourse at 
 the bottom into which one rides in steep zigzags 
 like the mountain trails, and by reason of having 
 the only gun it became my part to ride ahead. 
 Presently we came to one — deep and as dark as 
 the inside of a cow. There was nothing else 
 to do so I cocked my gun, a forty-four, Russian 
 model, and shoved the spurs in so that my horse 
 would take the trail, down into the arroyo first. 
 There was not a sound except the rattle of stones 
 from my horse's feet; there was not a thing that 
 
AMBUSHED BY LADRONES 285 
 
 could be seen in the darkness ; I was on edge for 
 the slightest sound. 
 
 " If you hear a sound, senor, shoot! '' said my 
 fellow traveler as I spurred ahead. 
 
 It seemed an age before I rode out on the plain 
 on the other side — and it was only a little arroyo. 
 And there were some eight or ten more of these 
 ahead. How many we passed I do not remem- 
 ber, but it was from the opposite bank of one 
 deep gully that I heard the rattle of displaced 
 gravel and I swung my gun into the direction of 
 the sound and blazed away. Down the last 
 slope of the near side my horse slid and then in 
 a rattling gallop stumbling and pitching over 
 the dried watercourse on up the opposite side 
 while I banged away in the direction of the first 
 sound. More gravel poured down and then 
 there came the sounds of scurrying and of hoof 
 beats pounding on hard ground. Close behind 
 me came the Spaniard in a clatter of flying stones 
 and still further behind the noise of his Indian 
 boy scuttling down the bank and trying to keep 
 up. 
 
 On the farther bank we halted and took stock. 
 To this day I do not know how many shots I 
 fired for I broke the gun, dumped out all the 
 
286 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 shells, and reloaded without taking stock of ex- 
 pended ammunition. But the tension was gone ; 
 we looked at each other in the darkness and the 
 rest of the trail seemed easy. 
 
 " They will not likely appear again," he said. 
 " But there are one or two bad places yet." 
 
 There were; narrow zigzags with sharp turns 
 guarded by jutting rocks where a man could be 
 hidden until the horse pivoted for the sharp turn 
 and this constant riding with a cocked gun into 
 a black gash that maybe contained something 
 that never appeared wore on the nerves. How 
 much I did not know until, as we rode into the 
 outskirts of La Paz, a couple of fighting bulls 
 broke loose in the streets and a loose fighting 
 bull is very dangerous. A man on horseback 
 was perfectly safe, but at the shrill, terrified 
 cries of '' los toros! los torosf '' and the low bel- 
 low of the bulls, I spurred on a law-breaking 
 gallop through the streets of La Paz and did not 
 stop until I had clattered into the patio of the 
 hotel. My nerve was gone. 
 
 The trouble over the lack of company funds 
 was soon located. Our agent in La Paz, a hard 
 drinking old man of many exaggerated polite- 
 nesses and a teller of tales that began with a 
 British commission in a Bengal lancers regiment 
 
AMBUSHED BY LADRONES 287 
 
 and drifted through Sioux and Blackfeet raids, a 
 man who was utterly delightful across a club 
 table, had been seized with a madness for power. 
 The poor old fellow, as honest as he was shift- 
 less, a genteel drifter for years, had become an 
 appointed and accredited resident agent and 
 with a full company cash box felt for the first 
 time in years the thrill of responsibility as 
 " agent " and had been for days shifting from 
 club to hotel and back to the club maudlin with 
 boasts and Scotch-and-sodas. It did not take 
 long to straighten out affairs and soon I was 
 headed for the interior. 
 
 Once more I was back in Sorata. One of the 
 men, our only mechanic, an Englishman, was 
 quarantined in a little house on the outskirts, 
 down with the smallpox. We had shared the 
 room in the Sorata posada together before I 
 started across the high plain, and he had become 
 sick twenty-four hours after I left. The inten- 
 dente of Sorata was irritated at him, he was some 
 trouble with his smallpox. They had locked an 
 old Indian woman in the house on the outskirts 
 to which he had been removed and kept a guard 
 at the door so she could not escape. She was 
 cook and nurse. 
 
 The queer official government doctor who ran 
 
288 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 a queer medicine shop and barely kept alive un- 
 der the government subsidy, shuffled up to the 
 house each day and called inquiries through the 
 window that were answered by the sick man. 
 Fortunately he was not very ill, and he pulled 
 through. While the peeling or shedding process 
 was on we would go up and sit across the alley 
 from his window and smoke some pipes with the 
 patient. 
 
 At night he used to be annoyed while he was 
 helpless, by the Aymaras, who would hold little 
 dances and celebrations under his windows, toot- 
 ing the doleful flutes and beating the drums. 
 While he was sickest he was helpless ; one of his 
 first messages was to the intendente to chase off 
 the Indians. It had the usual result — nothing. 
 His first convalescent act was to crawl over to the 
 window one night with his gun and open fire. 
 Two muffled echoes from the night proved that 
 he had punctured two drums and he was left in 
 peace. True, the Aymaras complained but the 
 intendente came back with the information that 
 a crazy smallpox patient was a free agent and 
 they had better keep away. Thereafter no more 
 drums or flutes broke the night's peace. 
 
CHAPTER XXI 
 
 THE MUSIC OF THE AYMARAS 
 
 THIS Indian music is interesting and I was 
 fortunate in being able to have some pre- 
 served in musical form for repetition. In 
 the remains of the vast Indian nation shattered 
 by Pizarro, the Empire of the Incas, every man 
 and boy, almost from the age v^hen he can walk, 
 is an adept on their simple reed flutes and Pan- 
 (dean pipes; the drum he merely thumps. They 
 are a musical race; there are songs and airs for 
 each season, for the planting, for the harvest, for 
 the valorous deeds of the vanished caciques, for 
 their gods of old to whom a new significance has 
 been given by a pious Church, and the long- 
 drawn chants by means of which, at their yearly 
 gatherings, they pass down the history of their 
 race. As there is no written language, there is 
 no written music; it is handed down from gen- 
 eration to generation by the ear alone. 
 
 Their national instruments are but three in 
 
290 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 number: the flute — a reed about eighteen inches 
 in length, with six holes, and a square slit at the 
 end for a mouthpiece, played after the manner 
 of a clarionet; the Pandean pipes — a series of 
 seven reed tubes that, in the large ones, are four 
 feet in length, and in the smaller ones scarcely 
 as many inches ; and the drum. The last is the 
 universal instrument of all peoples; there are 
 few races so low in the scale of human society as 
 not to possess it. The Pandean pipes are in a 
 double row, and at the time of preparation for 
 the Indiads, or the intertribal wars, the outer 
 series is filled with canassa, the native liquor, and 
 the player receives the benefit of the intoxicating 
 fumes without the delay incidental to drinking 
 from the bottle. Only the men play, the women 
 and girls never; their part is in the chanting and 
 in the hand-clapping that measures the weird 
 rhythm, although before marriage the girls are 
 allowed to join in the dances and the drinking 
 that goes with them. 
 
 In the cities and villages there are the con- 
 stant beating of the drums and sound of the 
 flutes. Every community or group has its 
 special festival days. Now it is a wedding or a 
 christening with the hosts of "compadres" — 
 
THE MUSIC OF THE AYMARAS 291 
 
 godfathers — or the Church day of some obscure 
 saint celebrated by the mission padre, then a vil- 
 lage fiesta or house-raising, and from day to day 
 the sounds of barbaric strains stretch in an end- 
 less chain throughout the year. In riding over 
 the high plains in the Indian country one is 
 seldom beyond the sound of the thin flutes. 
 Every llama and sheep herder passes the 
 monotonous hours with his playing. In the still 
 air it carries for miles and softens in the long 
 distances with a weird pleasing effect. The 
 strain is short, but one bar, and for hours it is re- 
 peated with unvarying exactness. 
 
 Even in the bitter cold and snow of the trails 
 of the high passes the presence of the Indians 
 is announced long before their appearance by the 
 echoing flutes. They plod along in single file, 
 muffled in their ponchos, driving the llamas or 
 burros before them; one of them supplies the 
 music, but as the air is thin in these high alti- 
 tudes and breath is precious, they relieve each 
 other at frequent intervals. There is no marked 
 
292 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 cadence to the music ; it is a weary minor air un- 
 like the sturdy measures we associate with 
 marching music, but it undoubtedly stimulates 
 its audience in some mysterious way with an in- 
 spiring effect. 
 
 But it is in the great fiestas that one has the 
 best opportunity of hearing the Indian music. I 
 was waiting in the Indian town of Achicachi for 
 the arrival of my mule to carry me over the pass 
 to the village of Sorata. The fiesta was for the 
 birthday of the town and in honor of the an- 
 cient gods of the place; at daybreak the In- 
 dians gathered within its walls from miles. 
 
 With the light of dawn the streets began filling 
 with dancing bands of Indians in their gaudy 
 festival attire. They were there in thousands. 
 The plaza was a weaving mass of brilliant 
 
THE MUSIC OF THE AYMARAS 293 
 
 ponchos and feathers; Indians with contorted 
 masks, and jaguar-skins trailing from their 
 shoulders, performed dances in the cramped 
 spaces cleared for their benefit; silver and gold 
 bullion decorations glinted in the clear atmos- 
 phere along with cheap tinsel and tin mirrors ; 
 and above all rose the sound of the Pandean 
 pipes, the flutes, and the drums, filling the air 
 with a confused discordant roar. 
 
 Often several groups of Indians would band 
 together and in single file follow the pipes and 
 drums m a little jerky, dancing step. Some- 
 times they went through simple evolutions, 
 figure eights and circles, or divided and came 
 together in the pattern of the " grand march " 
 of the East Side balls. The players would 
 dance as well, and occasionally some inspired 
 individual would halt the line while he whirled 
 dizzily around in one spot to his own music. 
 The others would watch these performances 
 with approval, chanting in a high wailing key 
 and clapping their hands in accompaniment. 
 
 With the darkness of the night the dancing 
 and playing in the plaza became less and less. 
 The groups withdrew to their 'dobe huts and 
 squatted on the mud floors. A tallow dip or a 
 
294 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 smoky wick floating in a dish of grease fur- 
 nished what light there was. The wind from 
 Lake Titicaca blew fresh and keen, but in the 
 lurid gloom of their squalid huts the air was 
 foul with the crowded Aymaras. The chant- 
 ing took the place of the dance, and the flutes 
 and pipes led in the air; the drums were silent. 
 With the finish of each verse or section the note 
 ended in a prolonged maudlin wail that con- 
 tinued until it became the opening note of the 
 succeeding stanza. 
 
 f¥H-lrrH 4 
 
THE MUSIC OF THE AYMARAS 295 
 
 This song is also popular with the Cholos — 
 the half-breeds. They hate the whites, and 
 sing it with either Spanish or Aymara words 
 of foul denunciation. In Sorata one time they 
 marched past below my window, singing it for 
 my benefit. Between verses they cursed the 
 " gringos " in vulgar Spanish. 
 
 It was in this same village of Sorata that I 
 was present at its greatest Indian fiesta. It is 
 the fiesta of the harvest and generally lasts for 
 an entire week. The mission padre pronounces 
 it the feast of Todos Santos, but to the Indians 
 that is a matter of indifference. The maize and 
 the "choque" (potatoes) have been gathered, 
 and the "chalona" (frozen mutton) prepared 
 for the ensuing season; the year has ended; it is 
 the fiesta of the harvest. They go to confession 
 on the morning of the first day, but the re- 
 mainder is spent in their own customs. 
 
 The little parties organized themselves after 
 the early-morning visit to the 'dobe church and 
 paraded with their odd trotting dance-steps 
 through the lanes of the town. There was the 
 usual collection of thin drums and shrill flutes, 
 with here and there the mellower tone of a Pan- 
 dean pipe. One band stood out conspicuously 
 
296 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 in the crowding throngs. This band had been 
 carefully trained by its host, who did not play 
 himself, but with a proud dignity directed its 
 evolutions. A huge Aymara headed the party; 
 he played Pandean pipes with tubes four feet in 
 length. A great drum swung by a rawhide 
 thong from his shoulders. Its shell was from a 
 log, the core of which had been burned out. 
 Following him was the line of Indians in a re- 
 ducing scale, each with a smaller set of pipes 
 and a smaller drum. 
 
 Each Indian contributed but a few notes to 
 the air; the range of the pipe was limited. The 
 drums never rested; they marked the sonorous 
 rhythm of the measures. The training was per- 
 fect; there was never a break in the succession 
 of notes ; the effect was much like that of a cal- 
 liope, but more mellowed and pleasing. They 
 played but two airs, and these seemed to be re- 
 served for that peculiar form of orchestra. 
 
 ^^ 
 
THE MUSIC OF THE AYMARAS 297 
 
 This they would play for hours before chang- 
 ing to the other, as follows : 
 
 White squares of cloth hung from the shoul- 
 ders of the players like the capes of the old 
 Crusaders, and with their brilliant new ponchos 
 
298 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 and the bright green of the parrot-feather dec- 
 orations they made a most picturesque effect. 
 The weird and barbaric music was rather at- 
 tractive at first as it rose from the distance and 
 swelled in volume while the procession came 
 nearer, but after eight or ten hours it palled, 
 and the prospect of a week more of it was not 
 cheerful. But an outbreak in the Indian town 
 of Illabaya, ten miles off over the mountains, 
 brought it to a close much earlier. 
 
 To Mrs. Arthur T. Jackson, of Boston, the 
 wife of a prominent rubber-dealer in Bolivia, 
 who was in Sorata at the time, the only white 
 woman within hundreds of miles, I am in- 
 debted for the transcript of the Indian music. 
 An accomplished musician, she was much in- 
 terested in the subject, and at different times 
 during her months on the Indian frontiers she 
 had gathered and noted the airs as she heard 
 them in the fiestas. 
 
CHAPTER XXII 
 
 BACK HOME 
 
 MORE difficulty developed when I, in an 
 amiable frame of mind bought a chance 
 in a watch from a Sorata man, for when 
 a man moves from a village he raffles off all his 
 household goods and his own and his wife's 
 jewelry. This raffle was made famous by the 
 fact that I won something. I won the watch; 
 and the next morning was arrested by the in- 
 tendente on the complaint of a thrifty Soratan- 
 ian that the whole machinery of the raffle had 
 been undermined and debauched, and Bolivia 
 dishonored in order that the dice might give me 
 this marvelous watch. The watch, by the way 
 — I will keep it for years as proof that I am 
 Fortune's favorite — did strongly resemble gold 
 in a dim light and when wound would tick for 
 quite a while, but in its general aspect was on 
 
 the order of those given as a premium with two 
 
 299 
 
300 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 cakes of scented soap for a quarter by the slick 
 corner spieler of a gang of pickpockets. 
 
 At last we were to start the next day over the 
 pass to Mapiri with our outfit and men. The 
 surly American with his ever-present extraordi- 
 narily long barrel Colt sent a messenger to me 
 to announce that his home office, easy chair, 
 contract on the Mapiri River happened to cover 
 ajl of the available balsas and callapos and that 
 I could not use any. Presently we met in the 
 plaza and he remarked with a suggestive 
 emphasis, " You got my message about my cal- 
 lapos? " I replied briefly that I had and that I 
 would act as my judgment dictated when I ar- 
 rived in Mapiri. " Very well," he said sugges- 
 tively; ''then you know the consequences and 
 can take them." 
 
 That night a friend came to our party with 
 the information that this man had shipped in to 
 his barraca recently some dozen Winchesters 
 and considerable ammunition and that he was 
 arranging to ship more. That gave their bar- 
 raca some twenty-six rifles — a pretty heavy 
 armament for merely a peaceful rubber com- 
 pany. His ignorance of the country and his 
 truculent vanity and the carelessness with which 
 
BACK HOME 301 
 
 he talked " fight," drunk or sober, made it a mat- 
 ter of no little concern. And he neither knew 
 nor respected the rights and customs of river 
 travel, although he attempted to dictate them. 
 
 Like many patriots he was willing to fight as 
 long as he could hire his fighting done for him 
 — an absentee bravo. 
 
 We bought four Mausers and a thousand 
 rounds of ammunition and started back to our 
 camp, with five white men and some thirty-five 
 Cholo workmen and three pack-trains of sup- 
 plies. 
 
 Once again we climbed sleepily into the 
 saddles at daybreak and began crawling up to 
 the final pass over this third and last great 
 range of the Andes. The first night's camp was 
 hardly below the snow line in a little sheltered 
 cove on the mountain flank; the next morning 
 a slippery climb in a blizzard that coated every 
 mule in ice as though with armor brought us to 
 a ragged, narrow cleft in a long fin of rock 
 through which we passed as through a gateway. 
 It was the summit of the pass. There was on 
 the farther side the usual votive cairn of stones 
 built by the Aymaras with the twig cross at its 
 apex while, leaning against the fin of protrud- 
 
302 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 ing rock as far as the eyes could penetrate the 
 blizzard, were narrow, spear-head pieces of 
 shale placed on end as further efforts in wor- 
 ship or propitiation of the great god of the 
 mountain. 
 
 From the pass the trail dropped a trifle and 
 we crowded for that night into the tambo in 
 Yngenio. They were a surly lot and viewing 
 with a hostile suspicion — doubtless with causes 
 inherited from the remote past of the conquis- 
 tadores — any outfit of wayfarers. 
 
 Again followed a day of sleet and snow-squall 
 with an occasional rift in the clouds when, thou- 
 sands of feet below, could be seen the soft greens 
 and the waving palms of inviting tropical 
 warmth and dryness. The narrow trail zig- 
 zagged up the bare mountain steeps, followed 
 for a distance the wanderings of the crest, and 
 then dropped in another series of zigzags to 
 lower levels. For hours there was this constant 
 rise and fall. In a cold rain we camped in a 
 stone hut, Tolopampa, a place that has the re- 
 putation of perpetual mud and rain where the 
 skull of some deserted Aymara packer still 
 kicked around in the cold mud outside. 
 
 And then at daybreak began the drop into 
 
BACK HOME 303 
 
 the warmer zones where there was sunlight and 
 a riot of tropical color. For two days it was 
 one unbroken descent while the back grew weary 
 and exhausted leaning against the cantle and the 
 stirrups interfered with the mule's waggling 
 ears. The clayey mud of the wallowing trails 
 rose up and wrapped us in its welcome until 
 boot-lacings, spur and puttee buckles blended in 
 shapeless, indistinguishable masses. And then, 
 five days after leaving Sorata, we plodded into 
 the straggling line of palm thatched huts that 
 is credited on Bolivian maps with being the 
 town of Mapiri. For two days the mules were 
 rested while the arrieros passed the time in 
 keeping mildly drunk. Below the high bank on 
 which the town stood, the River Mapiri boiled 
 past in muddy eddies; here in a cane hut we 
 camped and oiled and packed the saddles ; from 
 now on It would be rafts, callapos, until we 
 again reached the main camp. 
 
 In Mapiri the callapos were waiting and we 
 embarked. One camp on a sand bar, one camp 
 in Guanai and the next day we shot more rapids 
 and came into the country of the truculent one 
 with the long barreled Colt. The barraca lay 
 just around the bend where the river broke in 
 
304 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 some small rapids and then saved itself in miles 
 of smoothly coiling eddies for the grand smother 
 of the Ratama. It was here at this chief bar- 
 raca of his company that there might be trouble 
 ''—we had been warned that if we attempted to 
 round this bend in any unapproved, uncensored 
 callapos we would be fired on. The four 
 Mausers had been issued and the case of am- 
 munition unscrewed. There were four callapos 
 with the white men on the one in the lead. It 
 was rather exciting, this uncertainty, but it was 
 accompanied by the invariably clammy spinal 
 undulations and the strong desire that I was 
 somewhere else or that what that jungled river 
 bed held for us was an incident of the past rather 
 than of this imminence. 
 
 As though casually the freight had been 
 loaded on the callapo platforms so that it made 
 an informal breastwork and quite as informally 
 we loafed behind it. And then the callapos 
 drifted silently around the bend — we had not 
 fired the salute that is ordinarily made when ap- 
 proaching a barraca at which one is going to 
 stop and call — and the clearing with its collec- 
 tions of huts and palm thatched roofs broke into 
 view. A little figure scuttled across the clear- 
 
BACK HOME 305 
 
 ing and disappeared. The edge of the clearing 
 on the bank was within a stone's strow and not 
 a sound broke the stillness. A word to the Lec- 
 cos and their heavy paddles began working us 
 over to the bank where a little path ran down to 
 the water's edge. If the two camps were in for 
 a frontier war, a feud, it might as well be found 
 out at once. Before there had been only the 
 threats of a foolish man — here was the place and 
 here were the men under his control. How far 
 would they back his stupidities? 
 
 In single file we climbed the steep path to the 
 clearing; at the top the head man came for- 
 ward cordially. 
 
 " What's this about firing on us as we came 
 around the bend — you getting in Winchesters 
 by the crate? " 
 
 He laughed cheerfully: 
 
 "Oh, phut! If it amuses that old fool outside 
 to send them in I don't mind, but if he wants 
 to start any fighting let him come on in and do 
 it himself." 
 
 We told him of the rumors and the threats 
 that came from Sorata. 
 
 "Sure, I know," he said; "that old cuss 
 didn't do much else but talk fight with me when 
 
3o6 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 I was out; how many rifles, how we're going to 
 run things — you know him — and I'll bet he's 
 never heard anything more than a firecracker 
 go off in his life. He'd fire me if he thought I 
 had you at my table. Bring up the hammocks 
 and come on into grub! " 
 
 And so like most other really serious things 
 it faded away on a close approach. But it had 
 held all of the serious elements. 
 
 The next morning we swung out into the river 
 and again shot the rapids of the Ratama and 
 drifted out where the whirlpools drew the cal- 
 lapos under neck-deep. As we approached the 
 site of our camp we turned loose the rifles and 
 shortly came the answering pop of guns. The 
 callapos grounded on the shallows at the foot of 
 the bank, the old Cholo workmen swarmed 
 around the new comers and waded ashore with 
 the new freight. Where we had left the begin- 
 nings of a palm thatched roof was a long bunk- 
 house ; a patch of young platanos was opening 
 its long leaves with its promise of our own base 
 of supplies; a hen clucked around with one lone 
 chick — the rest having succumbed to snakes — 
 the result of some trading with the cacique ; un- 
 der a palm thatch there drifted the blue wisps 
 
BACK HOME 307 
 
 of smoke from a bank of charcoal burning and 
 a well defined trail stretched through the jungle 
 to a clearing farther down where the placer 
 workings would be finally located. 
 
 It was like the Swiss family Robinson — it was 
 coming home. The Cholo with the one silver 
 eye, the drunken shoemaker with the scalloped 
 scar, and all the others crowded around and 
 chattered in a happy excitement. The proper 
 native custom is to celebrate so according to 
 formula a tin of alcohol was ordered for the 
 night and the workmen decked themselves with 
 leaves and shuffled round in what passes for a 
 dance until exhausted. The next day the time 
 expired ones started up-river with the callapos. 
 
 It had been five months since I left the camp 
 and we began that slow, heart-breaking struggle 
 against the current. It was with all the feelings 
 of having at last reached my restful home that I 
 turned into my hammock that night. Rapidly 
 the camp grew under the influx of the new men; 
 the song of the whip-saw rose in the forest and 
 long clean timbers began piling themselves 
 along the trail; now and again the roar of some 
 huge tree shook the air as it mowed a swath of 
 jungle in its fall; a tiny store was opened and 
 
3o8 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 now and again Leccos came to trade — out from 
 the original jungle of the year before had come 
 a tiny, fragmentary community hanging on to 
 the frontier. 
 
 And three weeks later I started on a callapo 
 down the river to cross the interior basin of 
 South America, over the Falls of the Madeira 
 and then down the Amazon and to London. 
 Two days and two night camps with a callapo 
 and a crew of Leccos and one forenoon we 
 drifted and scraped on the gravel beach of Rur- 
 renabaque. Here was the last touch of a town, 
 or of a straggling settlement that I would sleep 
 in for many days. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 OFF ACROSS THE CONTINENT IN A BATALON 
 
 A clumsy cart, with its two wheels cross-cut 
 from a single mahogany log, and slowly 
 dragged by a pair of mud covered oxen, 
 crawled across the open space before the settle- 
 ment that had been left, after the Spanish cus- 
 tom, in crude reminder of a plaza. Under the 
 midday tropic sun the quivering heat-waves 
 boiled up from the baking ground and through 
 them the straggling line of high-peaked, palm- 
 thatched, cane houses shimmered in the glare. 
 Under the torrent of heat the jungle sounds 
 were silenced, and only in the distance, from 
 the river's edge, came the splashing and clat- 
 ter of the Tacana woman, with the happy 
 shrieks of the sun-proof, naked babies. 
 
 The wooden axles of the cart cried aloud 
 for grease as a ragged Tacana prodded the lum- 
 bering oxen ; on the raw hides in the cart lay a 
 
 309 
 
3IO ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 tiny sack of mail and beside it the tawny mot- 
 tlings of a fresh stripped jaguar skin. The cart 
 stopped before the cane house of the intendente 
 and that functionary rolled lazily from his ham- 
 mock and signed a paper; the half-breed roused 
 himself from the corrugated floor of split palm 
 logs, and disappeared in the jungle paths of the 
 scattered settlement to gather his crew, and by 
 that I knew that at last my time for embarking 
 on the muddy, swirling current of the Rio Beni 
 had arrived. 
 
 Eight hundred miles back, through canon and 
 mountain torrent, over the giant passes of the 
 inner Andes, lay the Bolivian capital of La Paz, 
 the last civilization from the Pacific shore. 
 Two thousand miles to the eastward from this 
 little frontier nucleus of Rurrenabaque lay the 
 civilization that groped its way westward from 
 the Atlantic, while between were long reaches 
 of desolate rivers, and primitive jungle. 
 
 The few whites — refugee mostly ; two, I knew, 
 had a price on their heads on the other side of 
 the Andes — popped out of their cane shacks to 
 see me off. Even in these remote parts, where 
 distance is counted in so many days' travel, the 
 long river-trail to the Atlantic is reckoned out 
 
OFF ACROSS THE CONTINENT 311 
 
 of the ordinary. My big canoe would take me 
 only to the Falls of the Madeira, and yet it 
 would be three months before the crew would 
 return to Rurrenabaque on their slow trip 
 against the current. 
 
 My Rurrenabaque host, a dried-up little Eng- 
 lishman who had packed alone on foot over the 
 high passes to this interior, and whose reckless 
 nerve will pass into ultimate legend, flapped 
 about in half-slippered feet as he supervised the 
 loading of my baggage on the batalon that was 
 sluggishly swinging to its vine moorings in the 
 current. His Cholo wife with her flaring skirts, 
 high-heeled, fancy shoes, and pink stockings, 
 fluttered amiably about, while a green macaw 
 and its inseparable companion, a big, gaudy 
 blue-and-yellow macaw, crawled affectionately 
 over her shoulders. Such idle Tacanas, Mojos, 
 or Leccos who incautiously and curiously ap- 
 proached were pounced upon by my host, whose 
 reckless Spanish was somehow intelligible and 
 efficacious. He impressed a little Tacana man 
 to carry my cartridge-belt. 
 
 " Wot ho, chico, 'ere you are, grab 'old! Wot 
 ho, sokker el rifle y los balas, 'urry hup — pronto, 
 de prisa, vamonos! " And the naked little Ta- 
 
312 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 cana baby — for he was scarcely more than that — 
 trotted proudly along under the little load. 
 " Abaht t' leave us, wot ho, yus I Goin' 'ome — 
 I'm goin' 'ome myself, next year." 
 
 Next year! Wherever you go, however far 
 of5f the main traveled trails you may drift even 
 into those unmapped spaces where the law is 
 carried in a holster and buckled on the hip, you 
 will find them, American or English, those who 
 are scattered on the fringe of the world — and 
 always they are going home, and always next 
 year! Home! Their home is where they are; 
 their lives, their affections, and the loyal little 
 interests that interwine and make the home are 
 all about them. And they realize it only 
 vaguely, when they have finally set a date for de- 
 parture and it begins to loom in the future like 
 approaching disaster in the multitude of little 
 separations.* Like my friend they may be cotn- 
 padre — godfather — to half the river; little dis- 
 putes are laid away unto the day of their arrival, 
 and their word is righteousness to the simple 
 Indian mind; in the land where there is no law 
 they are ready in emergencies to carry justice in 
 the breech of a rifle ; they have earned the trust 
 of the weaker, white or native, and stand forth 
 
OFF ACROSS THE CONTINENT 313 
 
 in the full cubits of their real stature — and al- 
 ways they are looking forward to going home, 
 next year! Born from out of poverty and the 
 slums, with a pathetic loyalty they dream of the 
 land in which they have neither ties nor friends 
 and where a fetid alley in some sweated city is 
 hallowed in their vague desire. 
 
 Down on the gravel beach the Tacana crew 
 was gathering. Each had his own paddle, a 
 light, short-handled affair, with a round blade 
 scarcely larger than a saucer and crudely dec- 
 orated with native forest dyes. The paddle, a 
 plate, a spoon, a little kettle, a short machete, 
 bow and arrows, or perhaps a gaily painted 
 trade-gun and a red flask of feeble powder, con- 
 stituted his entire equipment for the many weeks 
 on the river. Indifferent to the white-hot gra- 
 vel, they pattered in bare feet and tattered 
 clothes — for unlike the Lecco, his near neighbor, 
 the Tacana is careless in his dress — and dumped 
 a bunch of fresh-cut, green platanos in the bow. 
 The soldered tins of rice, strips of charqui, and 
 the boxes of viscocha — a double baked bread as 
 hard as cement that does not mould in the tropic 
 humidity, had already been stored. Two Ta^ 
 cana girls, still children in years, but brides of 
 
SH 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 THE TACANA BRIDES ADJUSTED FOR THEMSEI.VES COMFORTABLE 
 NICHES IN THE CARGO. 
 
 two of the boys of the crew, waded out and 
 climbed aboard the canoe; the half-breed threw 
 aboard the little sack of mail; I waded out; the 
 vine moorings were cast off, and with a splashing 
 of paddles and the last clattering farewells, we 
 swung out into the Beni's muddy current. The 
 lonely little group of aliens on the beach fired 
 their rifles in salute, their diminishing figures 
 quivered and blurred in the heated air that 
 boiled up from the hot gravel shore as I emptied 
 my magazine rifle in response, and then they 
 
OFF ACROSS THE CONTINENT 315 
 
 turned and plodded slowly back to their cane 
 shacks. 
 
 The sun blazed down on the open canoe, and 
 on each side the heavy jungle dropped to the 
 water's-edge without the ripple of a leaf, and 
 only our progress fanned the air with a thin, hot 
 zephyr. The Tacana brides adjusted them- 
 selves to comfortable niches in the cargo, and 
 chattered gaily with the crew. Once in a while 
 there was a tortuous passage choked with snags 
 that required careful work on the part of the 
 helmsman while the crew, perched on the 
 thwart six on a side, hit up a rapid stroke to fifty- 
 five and once to sixty. The half-breed and I 
 swung our feet over the tiny deck aft and broiled. 
 
 The b a t a 1 o n 
 was a huge, heavy 
 canoe, thirty feet 
 in length, with a 
 beam of about 
 ten feet while ^ 
 the bow and stern 
 were blunt, giving 
 the canoe the ef- 
 fect of a pointed ^^"""^ 
 scow. At the stern AT the tii,i,er presided a huge tacana. 
 
3i6 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 was a rudder with a high rudderpost, and at the 
 tiller presided a huge Tacana upon whose face 
 were the traces of the painted stains from some 
 recent celebration. Every stick in the batalon 
 was heavy, hand-sawed mahogany. The cargo 
 was piled high amidships, with a view to its pos- 
 sible use as a breastwork in the event of an en- 
 counter with savages, and it was not lashed in 
 place, for there were no more rapids, and the ex- 
 citement of shooting them was past. 
 
 The first day was short, for to make an actual 
 start was most important, and then on succeed- 
 ing days the daily work from dawn to sunset 
 flowed easily along. We stopped for the night 
 at Alta Marani, where two Englishmen had a 
 little headquarters of their own. They had a 
 fleet of dugout mahogany canoes with which' 
 they shot the river between Mapiri and Rur- 
 renabaque. Four canoes were lashed side by 
 side, the cargo was bolted under the decks, so 
 that in principle, independently invented here 
 and by them, they were diminutive whalebacks 
 like those of the Great Lakes, and the gaskets 
 and cargo tarpaulins were of pure rubber. 
 
 The years of frontier life had browned them 
 like Tacanas; they spoke half a dozen native 
 
OFF ACROSS THE CONTINENT 317 
 
 dialects ; barefooted and half naked, they could 
 run the river or hunt with any Indian, and their 
 toughened skins were indifferent to sand-fleas 
 and mosquitos. One, a mighty hunter, painted 
 his face in ragged streaks after the manner of 
 the Tacanas when on the hunt. Wild animals, 
 he claimed, seemed to have less fear of him, and 
 in some way he believed it blended the man with 
 the flickering sunlight of the forest. It may be, 
 for I have seen the brilliantly mottled jaguar 
 'skin flung on the ground in the forest become 
 merged to practical invisiblity fifty feet away. 
 
 Half the night they sat naked to the waist in 
 clouds of mosquitos and insects, talking. The 
 single tiny candle flickered in the cane-walled 
 darkness of their shack; the glittering eyes of the 
 Mojo and Tacana retainers gathered in the door- 
 way to listen to the peculiar noises made by white 
 men in conversation. Here and there on the 
 walls was some splintered arrow — the idle sou- 
 venir of some little fight, a tapir, wallowed 
 through the jungle across the river; and the oc- 
 casional wail of a wandering jaguar came to us 
 as we talked for hours of Thackeray, Stevenson, 
 Dickens, Scott, Kipling, and " Captain Ket- 
 tle!" 
 
3i8 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 The last was first in adventure, but least in 
 charm. " That fellow," they said, " 'e certainly 
 did know a ship ! " A few tattered books were 
 there, their covers long since gone, for they had 
 been traded about over hundreds of miles of this 
 interior, and among them were Laura Jean Lib- 
 bey and Bertha Clay. Naively they asked me 
 about the latter. " They're books all right — 
 but there don't seem to be much to them." And 
 they were pleased to learn that their prejudice 
 was rather shared by the academic standards 
 of the distant outer world. 
 
 The lives, of these men, as they looked at the 
 matter were filled with trivial routine; romance, 
 character, adventure — were the things bound in 
 books. " After the Ball " and " Daisy Bell " still 
 lingered as great popular triumphs of ballad and 
 the Indians shuffled and grinned as these cal- 
 loused dities quavered through the darkness. 
 If I would stay, I was promised all kinds of 
 hunting — jaguar, tapir, monkey, wild hog, big 
 snakes, and, as an additional lure, only half a 
 day's march back from the river a brush with the 
 savages ! The palm roof of these men was the 
 last that I was to sleep under for many days. 
 
 Before dawn the next morning the little camp- 
 
OFF ACROSS THE CONTINENT 319 
 
 fires of the crew sprang up along the bank; the 
 Tacanas shivered in the soft, cool morning air as 
 though it were a biting blast, and then, with the 
 first rays of the rising sun, we waded aboard 
 once more and were off. Well into the fore- 
 noon the Tacanas suddenly stopped paddling. 
 " Capibarra, patron! " they whispered excitedly. 
 On the bank, not forty yards away, stood the 
 capibarra, an amphibious, overgrown, long-leg- 
 ged guinea-pig sort of creature, which blinked 
 at us with startled eyes. From the steady plat- 
 form of the drifting canoe I fired, and missed. 
 
 NEVER WAS SUCH AN EXHIBITION IN THE HISTORY OE FIREARMS. 
 
320 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 The second shot also missed. In brief, I emp- 
 tied the magazine while the capibarra darted 
 about in a panic, attempting to climb the steep 
 bank. The bullets spurted dirt above, behind, 
 below, and before him. 
 
 The ninth shot at last laid him out dead. 
 Never was there such an exhibition in the his- 
 tory of firearms. The crew in the meantime had 
 unlimbered their shotguns and arrows, and were 
 also pouring in a heavy fire, and with equally un- 
 successful results; it sounded like a fair-sized 
 skirmish. At noon, when we tied up to the 
 bank, the crew quietly departed into the jungle 
 for game while I was busy; they would take no 
 further chances with the larder with me along. 
 
 " Why did you not tell me? " I spoke sternly 
 to the crew chief, but he only shuffled uneasily 
 on his huge bare feet; it was later that I learned 
 it was believed that my eye-glasses were the evil 
 influence that made my rifle useless. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 THROUGH THE RUBBER COUNTRY 
 
 AS we tied up, the next day, I saw the crew 
 quietly sneaking their bows and arrows 
 and feeble shot-guns out of the batalon. 
 I stopped them, and, buckling on my cartridge- 
 belt, prepared to go along. We all went, 
 though it was a very hopeless party of Tacanas ; 
 but my luck had turned. Not a hundred yards 
 from the bank we ran into a troop of six big, 
 black spider-monkeys, and I got the entire troop ; 
 only one needed a second shot. It was pure 
 luck, for shooting these monkeys is virtually 
 wing-shooting with a rifle. They dash over 
 their arboreal paths faster than a Tacana can 
 follow them on the ground, and one's only 
 chance is when they pause to swing from one 
 branch to the next. Never again was I able to 
 approach the record of that morning, but after 
 
 that the Tacanas always left their own weapons 
 
 321 
 
322 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 in the batalon when we hunted for the larder. 
 
 They could pick up game-signs as they pad- 
 dled, and read the indications of animal life 
 as though it were writ large in the silent forests. 
 When we went ashore, they would string out in 
 a long, silent line of skirmishers, and presently 
 there would come the grunting coo of a monkey, 
 the scream of a parrot, or some long-drawn 
 animal-call. The big Tacana helmsman, who 
 kept near me, would say, " There are three 
 spider-monkeys over there, patron," or perhaps 
 a red roarer monkey, whose bellowing love-song 
 at sunrise and sunset carries through the still air 
 for miles. Always it was as the Tacana said. 
 The line of Tacanas could fairly talk with one 
 another in an animal language that did not alarm 
 the forest and would deceive any but a Tacana 
 ear. 
 
 Sometimes there would be a wild hog, some- 
 times wild turkey, or a big, black bird very much 
 larger and more delicious in flavor; but it was 
 the monkey that was the standard diet for many 
 days. With seventeen able-bodied appetites in 
 the outfit, the hunt was a necessity, and mon- 
 key the most accessible game. If there ever 
 seemed to be a trifle too much, the Tacana crew 
 
THROUGH RUBBER COUNTRY 323 
 
 would rouse themselves during the night and 
 have additional feasts, until by dawn the supply 
 was gone. On sand-bars they would forage for 
 turtle-eggs, and every day they usually collected 
 
 BUT IT WAS MONKEY THAT FURNISHED THEM WITH THE GREATEST 
 DEI.ICACY. 
 
 a bushel or two of these. But it was monkey 
 that furnished them with the greatest delicacy 
 and the keenest pleasure in the hunt. 
 
 Though monkey-shooting was necessary and 
 there was for the moment, the thrill of skilful 
 shooting, yet the element of pathos dominated. 
 A clean shot stirs no thought, but to wound first, 
 as must happen in many cases, gives a queer little 
 
324 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 clutch at the heartstrings that can never be 
 shaken off. The little monkey, the frightened, 
 hopeless agony of death stamped on its tiny, 
 grotesque features, dabbles aimlessly with little 
 twigs and leaves, stuffing them at the wound; 
 sometimes it feebly tries to get back among the 
 branches that make his world, and, as you ap- 
 proach, there is never any savage, snarling stand 
 where he meets extinction with the cornered 
 heroism that seems for the moment to balance 
 the scene. Instead, he pleads with failing ges- 
 tures of forlorn propitiation, and with hoarse, 
 cooing little noises, for the respite that would be 
 far less merciful than the coup de grace. 
 
 Never will I forget one; it was a question of 
 seconds only and as he lay there on the ground 
 he waved the little hands at me as if to motion 
 me back, he turned the little twisted face away 
 with an appealing, deprecating coo from which, 
 in this supreme moment, even terror was sub- 
 dued. I have watched men on the field of battle 
 with the death sickness upon them and where, 
 even under these surroundings, while a spirit is 
 struggling into the great mystery there comes the 
 inevitable awe that lingers like a vision in the 
 recollection. 
 
THROUGH RUBBER COUNTRY 325 
 
 That was human. Yet even here, before this 
 sprawling, almost human figure, the feeble ges- 
 ture, and the soft, caressing coo of final request 
 I felt an emotion rising with a solemn dignity; 
 it was life itself that was passing from the pa- 
 thetic little body. I held back the Tacana who 
 rushed up and the picture is still vivid of the 
 flickering sunlight in the jungle forest, a few 
 fallen leaves flecked with a mortal red, while a 
 full grown white man and an Indian stood back 
 silently in response to the fading appeal of a 
 little, dying monkey. 
 
 For the daily hunt the canoe was moored 
 where the jungle met the river, but every even- 
 ing at early sunset the camp was made at the 
 edge of some broad, sandy playa as far from the 
 forest as possible. Long before camping the 
 Tacanas had kept a shrewd lookout for recent 
 signs of savages, and after chattering among 
 themselves would indicate a playa that seemed 
 proper and secure. The savages, primitive and 
 nomadic, scarcely more than animals, offered no 
 menace by daylight, but in the darkness lies their 
 opportunity. With instinctive adroitness they 
 can crawl through the jungle without a sound 
 and be in the midst of a camp before it is awak- 
 
326 
 
 ACROSS THE 'ANDES 
 
 ened; but in the open spaces they are timid., 
 They will line up fifty yards away and open with 
 an ineffective volley of screeches and arrows. 
 
 Secure in this custom, the Tacanas set no 
 watch, and we all slept peacefully depending on 
 any savages that might come to furnish the alarm 
 for their own attack. Though signs of them 
 were all about, we were never molested. Often 
 
 
 OFT^N WE PASSED THE LITTI^E SHELTER OF PALM LEAVES. 
 
 we passed a shelter of palm-leaves by the shore 
 that had been used by some party that had come 
 down to the river to fish ; for only in the interior 
 and on the smaller and absolutely virgin rivers 
 
THROUGH RUBBER COUNTRY 327 
 
 and tributaries did they have their headquarters. 
 Sometimes there would be a tiny dugout against 
 the bank, and their camp-fire would send up a 
 thin, blue column of smoke against the purple 
 jungle shadows. The Tacana helmsman would 
 throw the canoe beyond arrow-range, while the 
 crew would cease paddling and call " Ai-i ! ai-i ! " 
 across the river, the recognized call of amity. 
 Sometimes there would be the glimpse of a 
 timid, naked figure darting from one shadow to 
 the next, a head peeping from behind a tree, 
 and perhaps a wailing " Ai-i I ai-i I " in response, 
 but rarely more. 
 
 Once we came upon a little party working 
 their way in a dugout against the current under 
 the bank. The Tacanas looked to their arrows 
 and put fresh percussion-caps on their shot-guns, 
 but the instant the savages spied us they scuttled 
 up the bank and remained in its shadows till we 
 drifted past. 
 
 Day after day passed in the slow monotony 
 of routine. The low, flat country never varied; 
 the hot, brazen glare of the Beni's muddy cur- 
 rent rambled in a twisted aimless course ever 
 to the eastward. Always at the dawn the vis- 
 cocha, or hard biscuit, was soaked to edibility 
 
3^8 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 in hot tea, and then we started in the soft, cool 
 stirring of early sunrise. Slowly the cool breeze 
 disappeared, the chatter of the parrots died 
 away, the water fowl aligned themselves in mo- 
 tionless, drying groups, incurious and fearless as 
 we paddled past their sand-bars and, like the 
 opening door of a furnace, there came the fierce 
 heat of the tropic day. The muddy river gave 
 no hint of its depth or channel, and sometimes 
 the canoe would run aground and the Tacanas 
 would tumble overboard, laughing and splash- 
 ing, to ease her off and then line out, with wide 
 intervals, as skirmishers, to locate a channel that 
 would pass us through the maze of submerged 
 sand-bars. Not a thought was given to the alli- 
 gators that infested the river, and the Tacana 
 who located the channel would swim carelessly 
 about with huge enjoyment. Again would come 
 the steady splashing of paddles and the double 
 line of rhythmic, swaying Tacana backs; then 
 at noon the daily hunt and the drowsy resting 
 in the forest shade while the Tacana girls busied 
 themselves with the breakfast where a pig, a 
 capibarra or a row of monkeys were slowly roast- 
 ing on the hot coals. 
 
 Rapidly the afternoon wears away until 
 
THROUGH RUBBER COUNTRY 329 
 
 cooler, more mellow glow announces the ap- 
 proaching sunset and then the chatter among the 
 Tacanas as they discuss the signs for the night's 
 camp. The little tolditas, the mosquito nettings, 
 would sway from their poles in the gentle breeze, 
 a quick supper would evolve from the remains 
 of the noon breakfast and be followed by the 
 issue of the cane-sugar alcohol. Sometimes af- 
 ter dark the Tacanas would paint their faces in 
 streaks with the berries foraged at noon, and 
 grimace and hop about the glowing embers of 
 the fire with shrieks of joy. Any odd grimace 
 or ridiculous streaking caused a riotous outburst, 
 for their minds were as simple as infants'. Once 
 — and it gave them delirious pleasure for a 
 whole night — they set fire to an island of charo, 
 the cane from which the walls of their shacks 
 are made, and all through the darkness it 
 crackled and burst in little explosions, as though 
 a nervous picket-line were protecting our flank. 
 Slowly the days passed, and it was with the 
 most cheerful emotions that we at last picked up 
 the first signs of the frontier toward which we 
 were working. It was only the shack of a lonely 
 rubber-picker, and the poorly made hut was bare 
 to the verge of destitution. Its whole outfit was 
 
330 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 y.^- 
 
 IT WAS ONI,Y THS SHACK OF A WNEIvY RUBBER PICKER. 
 
 scarcely more than that of one of the Tacana 
 crew; there was a cheap shot-gun, some powder 
 and ball, yet the bow and arrows were his hunt- 
 ing mainstay to save the expensive use of the 
 other. Near by there was an uncultivated patch 
 of rice, corn, a few yuccas, bananas, and some 
 tobacco-plants. Under the cane bunk was a 
 pair of primitive rubber shoes, made of the pure 
 rubber mixed with a little gunpowder, and 
 smoked on a block of wood roughly hewn to the 
 shape of a foot. I often saw these curious rub- 
 ber shoes, which apparently can serve no pur- 
 pose with their callous-footed wearers except 
 
THROUGH RUBBER COUNTRY 331 
 
 that of stylish ornament. In one corner were a 
 few, brown bolachos of rubber, which would be 
 valued at twelve or fifteen hundred dollars in the 
 market, but for which the picker would receive 
 from his patron not enough to free him from 
 debt for his past and future supplies meager as 
 they are. 
 
 As we tied up to the bank, he and a boy helper 
 had just gathered the rubber sap and were busy 
 smoking it. A huge tin basin, a giant counter- 
 part of the tin basin that sits on the wash bench 
 outside every American farm-house, was half 
 full of a white fluid that looked for all the world 
 like a rather chalky milk; before it, in a little 
 pit, was a tin arrangement something like a milk 
 can with an open top out of which poured a thin, 
 blue, hot smoke ; and above the pit was a frame 
 on which rested a round stick that held a globu- 
 lar mass of yellowish rubber previously smoked 
 and cured. The round stick was rolled over the 
 basin, a cupful of the new rubber was ladled 
 over the mass as it was rolled back into the 
 smoke, and there held and manipulated until the 
 whole surface was thoroughly smoked. In the 
 thin, blue smoke it at once turned a pale yellow. 
 
 Layer by layer the bolacho is built up with 
 
332 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 IN THS THIN BlVt SMOK^ IT AT ONCK TURNED A PAI^E Y^I.I,OW. 
 
 each day's gathering of sap, and months after, 
 when it is cut open and graded, the history may 
 be read in the successive layers; this day's sap 
 was gathered in the rain, the paler, sourer color 
 showing that water had trickled down the bark 
 and into the little cups ; the dirt and tiny chips 
 show that this day was windy; and there in the 
 darker oxidization of the layer, is revealed the 
 fact of a Sunday, a fiesta or drunken rest before 
 the succeeding layer was added. 
 
 Sometimes as the batalon of the patron makes 
 its regular trip for collection, nothing will be 
 
THROUGH RUBBER COUNTRY 333 
 
 found but a gummy residue of burned rubber, 
 a rectangle of black ashes where the hut had 
 been, and near by broken and mutilated remains 
 of the picker; for the feeble trade-gun is only 
 one degree better than the enemies with which 
 the rubber-picker has to contend. In such an 
 event the patron curses the savages and, when 
 these losses become too frequent, may return on 
 a punitive expedition ; for labor is scarce in these 
 remote districts, and the loss is economic, not 
 sentimental. 
 
 JUSTICE IS ADMINISTERED ACCORDING TO TH^ STANDARDS OP HIS 
 SUBMISSIVE DOMAIN. 
 
334 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Farther down the river is the barraca of the 
 patron, a large clearing in the forest back from 
 the bank of the river. Here survives feudalism, 
 and justice is administered according to the 
 rough standards of his submissive domain. 
 Somewhere you will find the stocks, with the 
 rows of leg-holes meeting in a pair of great 
 mahogany beams. A pile of chain-and-bar 
 leg-irons lie in a near-by corner, and a twisted 
 bull-hide whip hanging from the thatch above. 
 In an open, unguarded shed beyond was piled 
 thirty thousand dollars' worth of rubber, — it is 
 only a fraction of the crop, — awaiting shipment, 
 and in the early moonlight we sat with the pat- 
 ron himself, a bare-footed, cotton-dressed over- 
 lord who was scarcely distinguishable from his 
 own debt-slaves. And he, in his turn, was in al- 
 most hopeless debt to the commission-houses, 
 who hold him by their yearly advances in trade. 
 
 Rarely now did the tolditas swing from their 
 poles in a night camp on a play a; on down the 
 river it became a series of visits — sometimes the 
 daily voyage was longer in the darkness — but 
 vigilance was now no longer needed in choosing 
 a camp, and every night the Tacanas carried our 
 outfit up the bank, where we slept serenely in a 
 
THROUGH RUBBER COUNTRY 335 
 
 rubber-shed. Coffee reappeared, and the In- 
 dian wife of the picker or patron served it at once 
 on our arrival, and then rolled cigarettes from 
 home-grown tobacco. Rubber was the talk — 
 rubber and savages. There was no outside 
 world, and I was a curiosity. The Brazilian 
 boundary was yet a month's journey with the 
 current to the east, and Rurrenabaque, against 
 the stream, was six weeks of hard travel to the 
 westward. To them La Paz was a vague name, 
 the metropolis of the world, perhaps, if their 
 primitive existence has ever stirred to the idea 
 of a metropolis. 
 
 Rubber and savages made their universe 1 
 Were the savages bad coming down? Well — 
 they are bad this year down the river farther — 
 a picker was killed last week only a half day's 
 march from the river. One of his men shot an- 
 other the other day among the cattle, but two 
 more got away! What will be the price of rub- 
 ber? The last known price is already three 
 months old in the quotations in Manaos. 
 Money, real money, it was useless. Never had 
 a gold coin looked so feeble and futile as on this 
 river, where merchandise w^as needed. I 
 bought a big rubber sheet and a rubber bag, 
 
336 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 and I paid a box of cartridges, a package of pen- 
 cils, and a fountain-pen such as are peddled on 
 the streets of New York; I was supposed to have 
 the worst of the bargain! 
 
CHAPTER XXV 
 
 A NEW CREW AND ANOTHER BATALON 
 
 ONE night we made no camp at sunset, but 
 steadily paddled in the darkness ; for the 
 journey was nearly over for the Tacanas, 
 and their paddles dipped in happy, eager 
 rhythm. Then the canoe was beached under 
 what, in the dim starlight, appeared to be a 
 cliff; the crew carried the cargo up the high 
 bank, and there, in scattered groups of twink- 
 ling lights, spread the settlement of Riba Alta. 
 It is purely a trading-center where the big rub- 
 ber houses have their headquarters in widely 
 scattered, high-fenced compounds. There was 
 a church of mud, with a tiny bell; a small de- 
 tail of Bolivian soldiers and their officer, who, 
 wonderful to relate, spoke English; there were 
 enormous warehouses stacked with goods at 
 startling prices, with French, German, and Eng- 
 
 337 
 
338 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 lish clerks who could chatter with the natives in 
 half a score of primitive dialects, and then, in the 
 cool evenings, sip huge gin cocktails from high 
 tumblers and indulge in local slanders. In the 
 room of each was a huge pile of accumulated 
 newspapers from home that they carefully read, 
 one each day, following the successive dates — 
 and the latest was three months old! It was 
 as isolated as a Hudson Bay post of a century 
 ago. 
 
 I presented my letters and had a room, a 
 hammock, a shower bath, and filtered water to 
 drink in place of the coffee colored river, and 
 I was disappointed, for the clear, crystal fluid 
 was insipid and tasteless after the long weeks on 
 the Beni. The Tacanas were to rest there a few 
 days and then begin their long slow return to 
 Rurrenabaque and, during that time, I arranged 
 for the last stage of this interior journey on down 
 over the Falls of the Madeira where a river 
 steamer was to be met and the actual frontier 
 had its beginning, or ending. From Riba Alta 
 the Beni becomes the Madeira River, by the ad- 
 dition of the Madre de Dios, the Orton, the 
 Mamore and the Abuna. And a day's journey 
 beyond Riba Alta are the first of the Falls of the 
 
A NEW CREW 339 
 
 Madeira. There are fourteen of them scattered 
 along the river for two or three hundred miles, 
 and ordinarily only two can be run, the others 
 being weary portages, and fourteen portages 
 with a heavy mahogany canoe is no light, frivol- 
 ous trip. 
 
 The last canoe that had come up over the 
 falls reported that a steamer from Manaos 
 would arrive and leave the village of San An- 
 tonio, at the foot of the last falls, in less than a 
 fortnight, and every effort must be strained in 
 order to make it. If I missed that, there would 
 be six long weeks in that unkempt Brazilian vil- 
 lage before the next transport from civilization 
 would arrive. A railroad has now been built 
 around the falls, starting from near San Antonio, 
 and steamers are a little more frequent. Now 
 that road is completed it opens up one of the 
 greatest virgin territories of rubber in the world. 
 
 A German rubber-trader in Riba Alta was 
 fortunately leaving for Europe, and we were to 
 join forces. He hunted up a little canoe, about 
 fifteen feet long, but with a disproportionately 
 wide beam that made it look like a coracle. It 
 was as heavy as a scow, and we stowed a block 
 and tackle to drag it over the portages. We 
 
340 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 needed four paddles and a pilot, for speed and 
 safety cannot be secured without a pilot. His 
 wages were equal to those of our whole crew, a 
 bonus of the cargo space for the return trip, a 
 rifle, and cartridges and also the amount of al- 
 cohol necessary to get him into this amiable 
 frame of mind. He knew the cataracts and 
 their condition in the varying stages of high and 
 low water like a book, he could take advantage 
 of the speed of the current and then swing into 
 the portage at the last moment; he shot the pos- 
 sible passages and chose the right bank for a por- 
 tage ; to miss the latter and then work slowly up 
 stream far enough to make a crossing and not 
 get caught in the falls is slow work; while an 
 error of skill in choosing the cataract that may 
 be run may fairly be considered as fatal. 
 
 The crew had to be rationed for a six weeks' 
 trip, down and back, while the persistent rumors 
 of savages made a rifle and cartridges a necessity 
 for their return. The traders in the settlement 
 regarded it as hazardous for us to attempt the 
 trip over the falls with so small a party, but my 
 German friend felt that in the speed with which 
 we could pass each cataract with a light boat 
 there was security, and the crew were indifferent, 
 
A NEW CREW 341 
 
 or confident in the presence of white patrons, 
 and so we started. 
 
 In Riba Alta there were two young savages 
 that had been captured in a recent raid far up 
 one of the tributary rivers. One was an Araona 
 and the other was a Maropa. Reared in the dim 
 twilight of the jungles, their eyes were unaccus- 
 tomed to the brilliant tropic light of the open, 
 and since their capture they would hide in the 
 houses by day and venture forth only in the even- 
 ing. Their skins were rough and calloused 
 from the jungle growths, and clothing was a de- 
 lightful novelty, though only a toy. They 
 would array themselves in any garments they 
 could for short play-spells, and then discard 
 them and step blissfully forth in their comfort- 
 able nothing. 
 
 The tribes of this part of South America are 
 among the most primitive in the world. Though 
 they had no knotted muscular development, each 
 of these savage children already possessed the 
 strength of a man, and in their aimless play 
 could shift boulders that would tax the strength 
 of a Lecco or Tacana. They could scale any one 
 of the branchless trees in the compound like a 
 monkey, and with as little apparent effort. 
 
342 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Sometimes when they were not watched too 
 closely, they would use bow and arrow with 
 native skill; like a flash the arrow would be 
 loosed and a lizard would be split as it ran, or a 
 fleeing chicken skewered. I was told that after 
 a savage child is captured, the greatest care must 
 at first be used in feeding it, as it is totally un- 
 accustomed to salt, and even the slight amount 
 used in bread has a poisonous effect upon it. 
 The Maropa had ulcers that were attributed to 
 this fact. The food, platanos, is rubbed in ashes 
 to slowly accustom them, and after about six 
 months there is no further difficulty. 
 
 The night before we left Riba Alta an Indian 
 was brought around to tell me an experience. 
 He was a rubber scout who hunted up possible 
 new areas of rubber trees ; he corresponded to a 
 " timber cruiser " in our own Northwest. Some- 
 where, about a couple of hundred miles back in 
 the interior from this settlement, he had come 
 across the trail of an animal unfamiliar to him — 
 and from his savage infancy such forest lore had 
 been his sole academic curriculum ; it was a trail 
 " like a snake — but not a snake." It was ap- 
 proximately three feet in width judged by his 
 gesture of measurement, and there were feet 
 
A NEW CREW 343 
 
 marks on either side of the trail like a turtle's 
 flippers — but only two. He had not followed 
 it for he was afraid. About a week later in the 
 shallow lagoon of one of the great lakes that are 
 known to exist in that part, although no white 
 man has yet penetrated to them, he saw a long 
 neck raise itself out of the water — a long neckl 
 And it had a head on it. A snake's neck, he was 
 asked. No, he insisted it was not a snake, he 
 knew snakes, it was a neck with a head on it, 
 something new. Then he fired at it, and it dis- 
 appeared — and that was all. 
 
 He had described, in the combined circum- 
 stances, a possible plesiosaur. What he saw I do 
 not know, but when an Indian wants to romance, 
 his animals have the regulation iridescent eyes 
 and spout flames. No combination of two over- 
 lapping trails could deceive him, he was adept 
 on animal trails, nor would such a common 
 place incident as an overlapped trail stir his 
 imagination. He had never seen a circus poster, 
 or an illustrated treatise on paleontology, but he 
 indicated the existence of some animal closer, at 
 least, to the plesiosaur than any known and dis- 
 tant descendant. 
 
 The crew had been gathered that same night 
 
344 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 and slept on the beach beside the monteria so 
 that we were able to start with the dawn. Our 
 first day was unlucky. The heavy canoe, with 
 scarce eight inches of freeboard, was swept on a 
 snag that started one of the planks. The inner 
 bark of a tree that is used for calking, and which 
 is always carried for such emergencies, could 
 not keep the water down, and we were forced to 
 beach the canoe for repairs. This delay, with 
 the constant vision of a lost steamer below the 
 falls, kept the German and myself toiling in the 
 blazing sun by the side of the crew emptying 
 cargo, patching and then reloading. The canoe 
 still made water, but we hoped farther down the 
 river to exchange it. That night we had to 
 camp on a sand-bar, and it was not until the next 
 day that we made the first of the falls, — or 
 cachuelasj the Falls of Esperanza. 
 
 At this cataract is the headquarters of the larg- 
 est single rubber in South America. His bata- 
 lones and even tiny river steamers ply from Es- 
 peranza throughout the enormous watershed 
 gathering the rubber and sending it out over the 
 falls in large expeditions. Here he has little 
 machine shops, a fair sized village of employees 
 all under his control,while off in one corner by 
 
A NEW CREW 345 
 
 the edge of the jungle is a marble shaft sur- 
 rounded by a little rusted iron railing that he 
 has erected to the memory of his wife. The 
 shaft and its pedestal have been slowly dragged 
 around the portages in a labor that lasted months, 
 and, as it stands, the tender tribute represents 
 somewhere near its weight in silver bullion. A 
 little tramway of his runs around this cataract 
 and by its use we saved many hours of portage ; 
 even the monteria was hoisted with borrowed 
 labor on the tiny car and hauled around. 
 
 At this Cachuela Esperanza I observed that it 
 was not a falls such as we picture in connection 
 with the word, a veritable Niagara or Victoria 
 where the water drops sheer in a mass of foam- 
 ing thunder; it is a gorge or a series of little 
 canons channeled through mountains of buried 
 rock lying at right angles to the course of the 
 river. The series of the Falls of Madeira seem 
 to be all of this character — parallel mountain- 
 chains of rock at irregular distances from one 
 another, which come near enough to the surface 
 to act as dams until the ages of insistent current 
 have worn their narrow channels. In high 
 water the rock is often entirely covered, and 
 nothing shows but the shift and coil of great 
 
346 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 eddies and whirlpools to mark the choked gorges 
 beneath. Each main cataract is guarded by a 
 smaller one above and a second one below, often 
 quite as dangerous, and making an average of 
 twenty portages necessary. 
 
 In three days we reached Villa Bella, a tiny 
 settlement on the peninsula formed by the Ma- 
 more River joining the Madeira. In this little 
 wilderness town, a sort of half-way between Riba 
 Alta and San Antonia, the few streets were al- 
 ready laid out with rectangular primness, each 
 house was compelled to keep a light burning 
 outside until the late hour of 9 P. M^ and there 
 was a street-cleaning department of one, whose 
 duty included keeping the weeds out of the 
 streets. There were also rudimentary sidewalks. 
 
 The night of our arrival there was a dance 
 given in the cane-walled house that combined 
 the functions of club, cafe, billiard-room, and 
 hotel. The sole music was by an accordion, and 
 stately, shuffling, swaying dancers simpered and 
 coquetted and performed all the polite maneu- 
 vers to its jerky rhythm, while the dust rose from 
 the corrugated floor of split palm-logs, and the 
 smoking kerosene lamps and tallow candles bat- 
 tled and triumphed over the soft evening atmos- 
 
A NEW CREW 347 
 
 phere. Every chink and crevice and window 
 held its glittering, enraptured Indian eye, and 
 even the elite caught their breath at the reckless 
 pop of warm imitation champagne at ten dollars 
 a bottle. Truly it was a grand affair. Ice for 
 the champagne had been hoped for, and the gen- 
 tleman who owned an ice-machine, as he fondly 
 believed, showed it to me and asked my assist- 
 ance in operating it. Naively he had bought an 
 ice-cream freezer, but so far it had proved ob- 
 durate to his labor, and had brought forth no 
 ice. 
 
 We exchanged our leaking canoe for a sound 
 one, a trifle larger, and pushed on. A few hours 
 below over the Falls of the Madeira proper — 
 a minor one of the series guarding the little 
 rapids at the head we ran, while a short portage 
 brought us into the clear river again. Three 
 batalones were running their cargo of rubber 
 through the gorges at the side of the cataract. 
 The bolachas of rubber were threaded on long 
 ropes, like a string of beads; one of the crew 
 would take the end of the rope in his teeth, and, 
 swimming or wading, guide it through the ed- 
 dies near shore. Often he would have to let go, 
 and with a rush it would be sucked into the cata- 
 
348 
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 THE BOLACHAS OF RUBBER AR^ THREADED ON IX)NG ROPES. 
 
 ract like a long, knotted, water-snake, while 
 others of the crew would swim out and recover 
 it below. 
 
 At this cataract the lightened batalones them- 
 selves could be run through, and the whole of 
 three crews would be concentrated in one for the 
 passage. Out into the eddies it would sweep 
 with thirty paddles straining over the high free- 
 board, giving it, in the distance, the appearance 
 of some huge and absurd water-bug. Six weeks 
 it would be before they would land in San An- 
 tonio, and then two, perhaps three months more 
 with their cargo of merchandise working back 
 against the river. With the killing work in the 
 
A NEW CREW 349 
 
 blazing sun, swimming or portaging from the 
 crack of dawn until dark, and a palm mat thrown 
 on the sand-bar at night, it is small wonder that 
 rarely a crew comes back from a trip with its 
 full roster. Even their rugged animal physique 
 is not proof against the continuous exposure and 
 hardship. In addition, there are the savages. 
 One expedition is still talked of where out of 
 three batalones that started with their crews, 
 only three men returned. 
 
CHAPTER XXVI 
 
 THE FALLS OF THE MADEIRA AND HOME 
 
 SLOWLY cataract after cataract was passed 
 Madeira, Misericordia, Riberon — with 
 three long portages that consumed a day 
 and a half — Araras, Tres Hermanos, Per- 
 donera, Paredon, Calderon de Infierno ('' Ket- 
 tle of Hell ") , which was a series of cool, shaded 
 channels among a multitude of islands, and 
 finally resulted in but a single portage around a 
 tiny cascade, although in high water the Cal- 
 deron de Infierno lived well up to its name; 
 then came Geraos and Teotonio, two cataracts 
 that challenged comparison with the rapids be- 
 low Niagara, though shorter. 
 
 Between two of the cataracts from up a little 
 tributary river there had been reports of newly 
 discovered rubber forests; the frontier had 
 blazed as though over a bonanza gold field ; tre- 
 mendous tales of the daily pick were told, 
 
 350 
 
FALLS OF MADEIRA AND HOME 351 
 
 DRAGGING A "" BATALON '' AROUND A PORTAG^ OF TH^ MADEIRA FALLS. 
 
 thirty, forty pounds of pure rubber a day! Ex- 
 peditions outfitted for a long stay were follow- 
 ing one another to claim territory and we knew 
 at the mouth of that river was a rough head- 
 quarters where there would be company in the 
 night's camp and the pleasant interchange of 
 rumor. So we made no camp at sunset, though 
 the crew murmured. It was pitch black, the 
 overcast sky shrouded even the faint starlight. 
 We literally felt our way close by the high 
 bank, while the paddles slipped through the 
 water with scarcely an audible drip. The little 
 animals of the night scuttled on the bank, and 
 out of the darkness would gleam tiny, scared 
 eyes. 
 
352 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 Suddenly from near the bow came the heavy 
 lap of a tongue upon the current not a paddle's 
 length away. An Indian dashed a paddleful of 
 water at the sound, and with a startled crash 
 against the brush there was a heavy leap to the 
 bank above, and there came the low, rippling 
 snarl of a jaguar and the sound of scattering 
 leaves as its angry tail whipped the under- 
 growth. With cocked rifles we waited for the 
 gleam of eyeballs — to have fired without that 
 much chance would have made the spring cer- 
 tain — and motionless the crew let the canoe 
 drift past. It seemed an age! 
 
 An hour more, and we came to the mouth 
 of the little tributary. A dozen batalones were 
 moored along the narrow beach vaguely out- 
 lined in the camp-fires along the bank, and back 
 of them were the rough huts that a Brazilian 
 had already erected at this point. Here and 
 there the feasting crews were gorging them- 
 selves on monkey and half-burned strips of 
 tapir, while a tin can of alcohol and a gourd 
 dipper were free to all. A short distance up 
 the river the savages had appeared that morn- 
 ing, and one of their men lay dead back in the 
 jungle, while another was in one of the huts 
 
FALLS OF MADEIRA AND HOME 353 
 
 with an arrow-hole through his breast. In the 
 main shack a few rods off was a woman, white, 
 pure Brazilian, who spoke in the low, soft 
 modulations of a far-off civilization, and who, 
 by any of the standards of all the ages, was a 
 beauty. She wore the simple, single gown of 
 the frontier, with an undergarment; her black 
 hair was coiled in a flowing mass that curved 
 low over her forehead, and over one ear was the 
 brilliant blossom of some jungle-flower. She 
 was playing a guitar, swinging with white, 
 slender bare feet in an elaborate hammock 
 against a background of rubber-traders, native 
 adventurers, and half-breeds, where the smok- 
 ing candles dimly outlined their rifles and 
 belted cartridges. A drunken, half-savage 
 woman, her maid probably, whined a maudlin, 
 gibberish, and over all rose the pungent smell 
 of rubber from the bolachas piled in the farther 
 shadows of the hut. It was like the touch of 
 fantastic fiction. 
 
 At the cataract of Geraos a Brazilian rubber- 
 trader was trying to portage his batalon and 
 cargo with a half-mutinous, lazy crew of Brazil- 
 ian negroes. A couple of the crew would work 
 shiftlessly while the rest dozed in the shade ; it 
 
3^4 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 was the last hard portage, and we offered the 
 Brazilian our block and tackle if his crew 
 would help us. 
 
 " Look at them I " he said hopelessly. " Talk 
 to the head-man. If they will do it, I shall be 
 glad. Two days have they loafed like this, and 
 it will be two days more." He swore fluently 
 in Portuguese. " If I beat them or shoot one, 
 they will have me put in jail in San Antonio. I 
 am losing money, but it is better than jail." 
 Obviously we were nearing civilization; up- 
 river no lazy mutiny was possible. 
 
 The head-man refused surlily unless we 
 would stop and loan them our crew. 
 
 One of the idling crew — it was not a strike ; 
 they were just tired and wanted rest — sauntered 
 over to me. He was a powerful negro, with 
 the smooth, supple muscles rippling under a 
 skin of oiled coal. He was a man without a 
 language, although he could be barely intel- 
 ligible in three. 
 
 " Me 'Melican, bahs, tambien," He 
 thumped his naked bosom like a war-drum, but 
 he was friendly; to his mind we were two fel- 
 low Americans greeting in an out-of-the-way 
 place. He pointed to his companion : " Him 
 
FALLS OF MADEIRA AND HOME 355 
 
 B'itish, ho, yaas." Then, like a chieftain cnant- 
 ing, he recounted their voyage on the river: 
 " Ribber him belly bad. Muchas wark — belly 
 ha'd. Me bahs him belly ha'd; go far topside 
 ribber. Me seeck; you got him li'ly rum, can- 
 assa? Wanee catchem li'ly d'ink." And his 
 B'itish confrere added also a pleading for a 
 " li'ly d'ink." 
 
 He insisted that he was an American, al- 
 though born in the Guianas, but he admired 
 America so much he. had adopted it; and he 
 would translate the heated gibberish of un- 
 known patois with his friends as his noble de- 
 fence of our superior America and wind up 
 with a plea for a "li'ly d'ink." 
 
 At this same cataract, in a wretched hut, lived 
 some kind of a broken down, human derelict, 
 blear eyed and worthless and nondescript, 
 whose desolate fortunes were shared by a poor, 
 wretched Frenchwoman and their unkempt, 
 pitiful children. Between them they stood off 
 the savages from time to time and in the inter- 
 vals squabbled drunkenly with each other. Six 
 weeks before a battle between two crews at this 
 portage had been fought around their shack. 
 One of the crew had stolen a woman belonging 
 
356 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 to an Indian of the other outfit and when the 
 trouble died down twelve men had been shot, 
 together with the woman who was the cause of 
 the friction. A new crew had to be sent down 
 to help out with the batalones. 
 
 But the cataract of Geraos is one of the finest 
 of the whole system. The buried mountain 
 system of rock lies open to the sky; it has been 
 channeled in deep canons, above which the 
 waves are lifted in angry fangs. Their roar 
 carries through the jungle on each side like the 
 steady thunder of a storm ; whole trees that have 
 lazily swept down-stream are caught in the 
 clutch of the great canon, and are tossed high 
 above the canon walls as though they were only 
 straws caught in a thresher. 
 
 At the Falls of Teotonio we paddled up to 
 the very brink of the cataract and beached 
 snugly in a little eddy at the side. Here a 
 broken-down contractor's railway made the 
 portage an easy matter, even though it was done 
 in one of the hardest tropical rainstorms that I 
 have ever seen. The lightning and the thunder 
 were continuous, and the rain drove in a steady, 
 blinding sheet, like the deluge from a titanic 
 nozzle. 
 
FALLS OF MADEIRA AND HOME 357 
 
 The little news that came up from San An- 
 tonio drove us to greater haste to catch the 
 steamer; the steamer was there, stuck on a mud- 
 bank; it had gone; it was coming. Every un- 
 certain rumor added to our haste and desire. 
 We had not stopped to hunt, and supplies were 
 running low. Coffee was gone, the viscocha 
 can almost empty, platanos and charqui were 
 running low and it was necessary to keep the 
 crew well fed for their hard and steady work. 
 Twice we had scared a capibarra from the 
 bank, each time beyond possible rifle shot, and 
 now we were looking for even a cayman, for a 
 big meal of baked alligator tail would go a long 
 way toward helping out the commissary. 
 
 Knowing our need, apparently, the game was 
 perverse in its determination to annoy us by its 
 absence; and then at last, on a playa, far down 
 the river, the crew made out a little group of 
 three capibarra. It was the only time I ever 
 knew of the necessity of stalking that simple 
 animal, and when the capibarra fell, kicking, 
 and the others darted off to seek the bottom of 
 the river, the problem of our larder was solved. 
 
 The rapids at the Falls of Macaos we ran and 
 then below there remained but the last. We 
 
358 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 had expected to portage about the Falls of San 
 Antonio, but as we scanned the distance below, 
 there, against the brilliant green of the forest, 
 was the rusty funnel of the river steamer, with 
 a slender, wispy feather of steam rising beside 
 It. Steam was already up, and how much time 
 had we to portage? If we portaged, it might 
 mean six long weeks of dreary waiting in a 
 frontier village that had none too pleasant a 
 reputation. Should we run the rapids? The 
 pilot shook his head doubtfully, but said he 
 would try. As we paddled along in the swifter 
 current it did not look bad — a few curling 
 waves crested with spray and then long, oily 
 stretches of coiling, boiling water. It seemed 
 possible, and it was worth the chance. We 
 would try, and the pilot swung the canoe for 
 the crested wave and the channel. 
 
 We threw off our shoes, unbuckled our belts, 
 and stripped, to be ready to swim in an emer- 
 gency. We emptied our rifles and revolvers in 
 a fusillade, hoping to attract the steamer's atten- 
 tion and hold it, but no answering whistle came 
 back. An instant later we struck the long 
 plunge down the glassy slope of water at the 
 entrance to the rapids, and a foaming cataract 
 
FALLS OF MADEIRA AND HOME 359 
 
 burst over the bow, drenching us with spray. 
 Then came the slower strain and wrestle with 
 boiling waters that burst upward from below, 
 while the crew paddled like mad, with the pilot 
 braced in his cramped quarters aft and chatter- 
 ing at them for still greater effort. The boiling 
 water threw us broadside on, and the whirlpools 
 caught us in a grip that the frantic paddling 
 could not seem to break. It seemed as though 
 we were standing still in the turmoil, and yet 
 a glance at the rocky, boulder-strewn sides 
 showed that they were shooting past like a 
 train. 
 
 Broadside on we darted for a second glassy 
 slope of water, and only in the last moment did 
 the canoe swing round so as to take it bow on, 
 while the wave that broke over us half filled 
 the canoe. Had we been heavily loaded, we 
 would have had our swim. It was the last of 
 the rapids, and a second later we drifted out 
 into the calm current, where before us loomed 
 the high decks of the river steamer. We could 
 have made a portage without risk, and with 
 ample time, for she did not leave until the next 
 day. 
 
 With San Antonio village fading behind us 
 
36o ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 in the soft, blue distance of the tropic morning, 
 civilization began slowly to reconstruct itself, 
 though still side by side with the most primitive. 
 Brazilian ladies teetered foolishly over the 
 gangplank that was run out to the mud-bank 
 shore with their high heeled shoes radiant with 
 suggestion of the highly cultured centers of 
 fashion ; again I beheld silks and fancy parasols 
 and poudre de riz and heard the frou-frou of 
 real garments, immaculate and bristling with 
 frills. Sallow gentlemen of wealth and 
 haughtiness came aboard with their retinue of 
 family who, in turn, had their retinue of half 
 savage servants, to escort their rubber shipments 
 and sling their hammocks from the stanchions 
 of the cool forward deck along with mine. 
 
 All day we broiled sociably together and in 
 the nights — when we anchored in the river — 
 slept softly in the balmy night airs. Together 
 we listened to the Madeira pilots swear as they 
 ran us on a mud bank and then clattered aft 
 bossing the dumping of the anchor from the 
 steamer's dinghy in order to warp us off again. 
 In perfect harmony we used the bathroom to- 
 gether and splashed in the overhead shower 
 early in the morning, for later the sun warmed 
 
FALLS OF MADEIRA AND HOME 361 
 
 the tank above to a stinging heat, and threaded 
 our way among the score of turtles that were 
 herded there until sacrificed to our appetites. 
 Closer we moved to the equator and hotter 
 blazed the sun. And then, at last, early in the 
 dawn we swung steadily out of the great mouth 
 of the Madeira River and into the greater 
 waters of the Amazon, hugging the shore. The 
 little river steamer breasted the current up to 
 Manaos, while on either side the little dugouts 
 of the Indians dotted the river in the cool 
 morning shooting turtles with a bow and arrow 
 for the market at Manaos. And then in that 
 city, still almost a thousand miles from the At- 
 lantic, there was civilization at last — trolleys, 
 electric lights, little cafes, with their highly 
 colored syrups, a theater and gay shops with all 
 the gimcrack luxuries and necessities, a band 
 and the shimmering, swaying endless parade 
 that encircled it weaving in the dense black 
 shadows and on into the luminous mosaics cast 
 by the arclights in the leaves overhead. Dim, 
 in the background, the chaperons purred to- 
 gether but with an unrelaxed and rigid vigil- 
 ance. It was civilization — all but the vernac- 
 ular. 
 
362 ACROSS THE ANDES 
 
 La Paz seemed half the world away, for it 
 had been three months and twenty-one days 
 since I climbed the long trail to the high 
 plateau above that Bolivian capital. 
 
 THE END 
 
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